texts:
I have a fairly new bathroom suite. The toilet seat has a nifty quick-release hinge which allows you to just press two buttons to take it off for cleaning. Underneath, the hinge assembly is fixed on with a long screw, tightened with a nut that fits snugly into a recess inside the porcelain. There's no screw head accessible from underneath, and the hinge doesn't come off on top to screw from that direction.

Naturally, the seat has come loose. How do I tighten it? I've tried just turning the screw thread with a pair of pliers, but it's hard to get a decent grip and this only works for a short while. Is there a particular tool I need to buy to tighten this sort of screw? Or a particular technique?


texts:
How can I install an electronic door lock ? Can an electronic door lock be installed on any door ?

I am fixing to purchase an apartment in Australia and it will come with a "Solid Core door with Deadlocks" for the front door. I just want to make sure I get a secure locking mechanism on my front door (as well as never to remember if I forgot my keys), thats why I am leaning towards the keypad lock things. I am missing HomeDepot


texts: Electrical and plumbing dielectric myth or fact

texts: I heard it's good to keep certain wires (mc cable notably) from resting on copper water pipes as to keep any potential dielectric breakdowns from happening. Is this just a myth or a fact and should I be concerned about when wiring electrical?


texts: One circuit of lights comes on dim when another is switched on

texts: We have three separate circuits of LED lights in close proximity to each other- one in master bath, one in master bedroom, and one in master closet. All are on dimmers. When any one of these three circuits is switched on the other two turn on at a very, very low level- only visible when dark. This happens anytime one of the three circuits is turned on. Any ideas?


texts:
Cold weather started early this year and I decided to turn the heater on. However after a couple hours the heater has finally kicked the bucket after some odd 25 years. I checked the voltage and wattage on the existing heater so I could swap it out. Ran to the store grabbed a baseboard heater of same watt/voltage.

When I opened this heater up its asking me to connect the neutral wire onto the thermostat on the baseboard, however I only have the red/black wires and neither are marked as neutral. Can I test the wires to see if one is in fact a neutral wire, or are they likely a load/line setup? It is a 240v 2000w Dimplex LPC with the onboard thermostat. Thanks for any advice! Just trying to get warm.


texts: Any possible fixes for separated mending plate in truss?

texts:
Floor truss in crawlspace, holding up first floor. 14” depth. About 20 ft span is my estimate, with about half of it sitting on concrete block, acting as rim joist.
On the spanned portion, there’s a mending plate that has completely separated from the bottom chord. Are there any fixes for this?


texts:
remodeling my master bath (3rd floor), replacing the old acrylic shower/tub unit with a clawfoot tub. Want to make sure I'm doing the plumbing correctly.

Tub outline (roughly) in black. Plumbing pipes in white, yellow for cleanout. Joists in blue.

The orange 8" is to do with hole boring rules for I-beam joists. A 3" bore hole requires 8" distance from the exterior wall.

Does this look to code?

Help appreciated!


texts:
My hot water tank pilot light would go out. I could relight it and the burner would come on and heat up the water tank, but then later on, I would find there was no hot water again and find that the pilot light was off again. It was doing this for a week.

I replaced the thermocouple and all has been working fine for over a month now.

If I could light the pilot light and have it stay on and have the burner heat up the water tank. The thermocouple seems like it worked. I didn't think a thermocouple could be partially broken; I thought it either worked or didn't work.

So can a thermocouple be half broken?

Or is it more likely that replacing it fixed another problem, like a partial blockage in the gas line or something?


texts: Confused about wiring outside light fixture with multiple switched wires

texts:
I am trying to replace an outside motion detector light fixture that was removed before I bought the house and the only things left were the plastic base in the eave and electrical taped wires shoved through it.

I pulled everything apart and have 2 separate 14/2 wires and neither is always live from the panel according to my non-contact voltage tester, both are switched and only live when flipped on at the switch inside the house.

Well I tried wiring up 1 set of black and white wires and just taping off the other to see if that would work but no luck.  I'm not sure why there would be 2 sets of switched black and white wires.  I'm assuming I'm wiring something wrong and its not a bad fixture but that's always a possibility.

Anyone seen this configuration before and have any ideas?


texts: US residential stair railing code: What is the requirement for terminating an open railing?

texts:
We're trying to pick out railings for our house. Our stairs are going to have an open side and we want to use a modern railing system such as this one:

You can find plenty of similar images for similar systems out there. However, this seems to contradict a requirement in the code that my contractor pointed out:

  The ends of the handrails must either be “returned,” or end in safety
  terminals.

Is the above image in conflict with that code? I see a lot of examples of this modern style of railing system, but are they all against code? Is there an exception to code for these newer types of railings that don't use a large bulky newel post at the bottom to terminate everything into?


texts: How should clothes and books be stored in an unconditioned space?

texts:
We are having our first child, and to prepare for that we have to move a lot of stuff to storage. The storage we have is not heated or otherwise temperature/humidity regulated. This means that temperature will change from around -15°C to +25°C (extremes are around -20°C to +35°C) during the year, and relative humidity will be anywhere from 20% to 100% I assume. The storage is well ventilated.

We are storing mainly clothes/fabrics and papers/books, but I am concerned about the environmental effect on our stored items. Currently we have been packing clothes/fabrics in air-tight plastic boxes, and paper/books either in air-tight plastic boxes, or just normal moving boxes. But I am becoming unsure if it is a good idea to store clothes/fabrics in air-tight boxes, as the humidity in the air cannot escape when the temperature goes down.

My question is, under the above mentioned environmental conditions, how do you best store:

Clothes and fabrics?
Papers and books?


texts: Finishing basement - run electrical to stud wall below steel I beam

texts:
I am finishing my basement and I need to run electrical for 2 outlets, 2 wall sconces lights, and a dual gang switch box, and the wall is the 2x4 wall for my stairs, that is also below a steel I beam.

I have a switch there now (on the stair case side) for the light at the bottom of the stairs, and it has conduit running over the beam until it's in between the studs. I have to build a soffit around the HVAC in the photo, but had planned on using the existing 2x4 wall already there. What is the best way (to code) to get wiring in this wall? The backside is under the stairs and will be accessible with a door.

[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mSTf.jpg


texts: Can you put an electrical switch inside a walk-in closet according to NEC?

texts:
I have a walk-in closet where I would like to put a switched light ceiling-mounted fixture.
According to NEC can I put the switch inside the closet (next to the door), or does the switch need to be on the wall, outside the closet?
I would prefer a citation of the code (if there is one) so I can ensure I follow the rules.


texts: Can I remove bluestone pavers embedded in mortar and reuse them?   A house with a bluestone foyer is being demolished and I would like to salvage the pavers and reuse them in my new home.


texts: I have some amount of putty which has dried, it isn't old though. Is it possible to make it soft as clay again? Normally how long can a putty last when open?


texts: Is this the transformer for my door chime?

texts:
I'm looking to install Ring Pro doorbell. I have looked around the junction box for a transformer and couldn't seem to find one this is the inside of the chime.

If this isn't it where could it be ?


texts: How can I unscrew my outdoor hose that is fused to the spigot?

texts: I don't know my own strength. It seems either my spigot or hose is stripped or they are fused together from corrosion. How can I unscrew the hose from the spigot?


texts: Are expansion gaps necessary in a plywood shed floor?

texts: I'm building a 2.4m x 3m (8 x 10) shed/office in my garden. For the subfloor, I am going to use two layers of 18mm (3/4 inch) plywood. The second layer is there because I plan to tile the floor and want to minimise flex. On a building this small, is it necessary to allow expansion gaps between the plywood sheets (I'm using 8' x 4' sheets so will use approx 2.5 sheets per layer) or can I just lay them tight? Ideally, I'd like to glue the first layer to the joists as well as screwing, and then glue (and screw) the second layer on top of the first.


texts: Drywallers messed up tile backer board, can I still tile?

texts:
I had the drywallers install denshield tile backer and I am finally getting around to tiling. I noticed a problem while looking at it the other night. Most places I've seen say that the gap between the tub and the backer should be 1/4"-1/8". I'm not sure what happened here, but it looks to be about 1 1/8" to 1 1/4".

Can I still tile with this or do I have to cut out a section 1-2" above and install new denshield to the correct tub gap? I don't think the grout will stick correctly if there is a void behind it.

I will be contact the drywallers to tell them about this, however, the project was done around 2 months ago.

thanks,

Eric


texts: How can I reduce the sound of my HVAC condensation drain?

texts:
I recently had a brand new addition added to our house include a new master bath, plus a new HVAC system.  The unit sits above the bathroom in the attic.  The HVAC installer connected the drain for the AC to one of the sinks in the bathroom.  So the drain basically runs straight down the wall behind the vanity and comes out at the sink drain.  When the AC defrosts there’s a good 2 mins worth of water draining into the sink.  Not a few drops every now and then, but like someone is continuously slowly pouring a huge glass of water out.

How can I reconfigure it to drain silently?  What are my options here?

In theory I could reroute the AC drain pipe to the laundry room, but that would likely require drywall work.

UPDATE: It looks like the refrigerant line is frosted over at the coil, even worse so at the condenser.


texts:
we would like to install a window air conditioner in our living room window.

The window is quite narrow (18.5" wide). The room is fairly big, ~400sqft. We would like to install a 10000 BTU window AC unit.

I am looking at this Frigidaire AC, but I would like to know if this can be installed in this space.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Frigidaire-AC-FRA103KT1-10-000-BTU-Slider-Casement-Air-Conditioner/15127187


texts: Is it ever necessary to have more than one back flow valve?

texts:
I live in a house from the 60s that somehow never had a back flow valve. My insurance company is pushing me to get a back flow valve installed before they will provide basement flooding insurance.

The house has a single water inlet pipe and a single sewer outflow pipe.

I just had a plumber come to give me a quote for installation and he said that i'd need a back flow valve at each location where I have appliances or drains installed in the basement.

This sounds bogus to me; back flow valves are to prevent sewer water entering through the drain; right? There's only one drain, so only one valve is needed; correct?

Is he taking me for a ride?


texts: Is there such a thing as a DIY heat pump or mini split

texts:
I wanted to ask this question to the community.

Is there a legal way to install a mini split or heat pump without having an EPA license? I have seen similar questions asked several times or questions on how to charge systems with the common answer stating a license is needed.

I am not asking about brands or “work arounds” but a legal way for a home owner to install their own heat pump / mini split system in the U.S.

Edit added
I figured I would leave this open until I can add a bounty (no correct answers yet) I am doing this for community knowledge as I just had a class on how to repair DIY installs (I do have universal 608 and 609 licenses) This is not a trick question , the EPA requires licenses to charge the line sets even on R410 but the no soldering is getting close , and I do mean NO EPA license required to set these split systems up that a home owner can do (ok electrical license may be required in some locations to connect the power) this may help others as I have said a license is required quite a few times


texts: Is it ok to run 2 NM-B cables in 1 EMT protective conduit in an unfinished basement?

texts:
I would like to add 3 new 20 Amps outlets in my unfinished basement. I'm going to run some NM-B cable along the ceiling joists and I will use metal boxes attached on the concrete walls as well as use EMT conduit to protect the cable from the receptacle to the ceiling.

If I decide to cable my receptacles in a row using the terminal screws (vs pig tail), can I run the 2 cables from the middle outlet in the same conduit or do I need to run 2 conduits? If yes is there a minimum acceptable diameter to do so?


texts: How should I insulate an interior wall between a warm humid bathroom and a cold bedroom?

texts:
We're redoing the master bath. I'm wondering if and how I should insulate the interior wall. Bedroom is kept at 60F. Bathroom will be warm (radiant floor) and humid even if we have and run vent fan.

Should I put insulation in wall? Standard fiberglass with vapor barrier on bathroom side? Foam board? Fiberglass w/o vapor barrier?


texts: wiring a ceiling fan with 2 wires and a ceiling having 3

texts:
I have a fan with a black wire and white wire. from the ceiling I have 3 wires black red and white. How do I wire it ? It does go to a switch.

Not sure how to do this


texts: Is a threaded brass drop ear elbow really the right fixture for in-wall attachment of shower head?

texts:
I want to make sure I'm doing this right. It seems weird that all the plumbing I'm putting in is soldered copper and should remain leak free for decades but the last few inches are this threaded brass drop-ear elbow. Threaded implies "will leak eventually".
Is there some best practice regarding the installation of the elbow to which the shower arm attaches? I'd prefer to not have leaking inside the wall.


texts: Do gas fireplace blowers actually heat rooms more effectively?

texts:
I have a rectangular-shape room with a gas fireplace in one corner. There're two thermometers: one by the fireplace, another in the middle of the room. When the heat has been off for a while, the temperature on both is the same. When the fireplace is on, the closer thermostat can get up to 10 degrees F warmer depending on how long it's been running.

So I wanted to heat the room more evenly and got the blower/fan thinking it would make a difference. Installed everything according to the manufacturers recommendations, checked that it pulls the air from and blows it out of where it is supposed to. Tried different fan speeds. After a few days I don't think I notice the difference. And the thermometers seem to be off by the same amount -- it doesn't seem like it's become more evenly circulated.

I got the blower on Amazon, so I asked this question on the product page and someone who claims to work at a fireplace shop said something about the fan being a convection fan, not forced air one and the effect depends on the environment. But didn't elaborate on how to figure out and make it work.

So I have two questions: are these blowers any good in general? And if there's indeed some work that needs to be done besides installation to make it more effective, then is there a good resource on how to make that happen?

(Not sure whether it's important or not, but there's a staircase not far from the fireplace, maybe it runs the air from/to there instead of within the room.)


texts: How to easily clean up or refinish cheap top coat on hardwood?

texts:
I recently purchased a home, and it appears that the hardwood floors had a very thin and/or cheap top coat of finish applied to make them shiny with minimal effort.

If I slide ANYTHING (even say a kitchen chair with plastic slider feet) across it a thin layer of material comes off and the floor looks less shiny in that area.

I guess this is a two part question:

1 - Is this a known practice?  Is there a way to check for it before buying a house?

2 - Is there a workaround for this besides refinishing the entire floor?


texts: I know it's an age old question. I will be doing all of our door & window casing in my basement finish this weekend. From what I've read, it's recommended to install the base trim before having the carpet installed? Is this OK to do if we don't know what carpet we are going with yet? I'm assuming I just install base trim 1/2" or so over concrete subfloor? This will give carpet installers enough room? Any other suggestions? Also, what space do I leave between door casings and floor, same distance?


texts: what is the BS7671 code for running 3core flexible cable in metal conduit that is buried underground. because the environment that i am in is sand. i know in the US they run PVC conduit when running a wire in the ground.


texts: Where can I find fence panels with 4" pickets?

texts:
We had some work done on a tricky part of our fence last year. We hired a professional to install the corner and the gate with the plan of extending the rest of the fence as we could afford it. He installed panels with 4" pickets.

Unfortunately now that company went out of business. We looked into DIY but the fence panels pre-made at the local home center had pickets that were too wide. I called another professional and their pickets were 5.5" wide. I'd like to make the fence uniform if possible. We have roughly 32 ft of fence that needs to be installed.


texts: Should I install 10 AWG or re-use the existing 8 AWG?

texts:
My new built in oven uses a 30 amp/10AWG wiring connection. My old oven has 40 amp/8 AWG wiring.

Is it possible to use this connection with just switching a breaker?


texts:
I live in a shop house, my below unit is rented to a restaurant, and hence rats are not uncommon in my house or my ceiling.

But for the purpose of this question, I just want to know how can I keep the rats away from wires/cables on my ceiling? My shop house suffered electricity outage a few times because the rats were chewing away the wires-- and electric short-circuiting themselves in the process.

I am thinking about calling pest control, but before that, I want to know whether is there any DIY solution or not.


texts: How can I determine why my lights are flickering?

texts:
I have a child at home who has learning difficulties.  Sometimes she jumps up and down on the floor.  Recently this has caused the downstairs living room light to flicker.  Upstairs under the floorboards I found a connector block with the three wires from the living room light switch going in one side and obviously three wires leaving the other side.  Oddly the bare earths were just twisted loosely together underneath.
Now I may not be a qualified electrician, but it's obvious that twisted wires isn't what you are supposed to do, so I replaced this with a six connector block strip and connected the wires back up properly.  The light then worked correctly.
The other day it started flickering again and after going out shopping for a few hours I returned and the light no longer worked.

In the switch on the wall the two incoming wires are live in the off position and the single outgoing is zero volts...with the switch in the on position all wires are live.  At the light itself both pins are live when switched on.

is this caused by a broken neutral or by possibly something else, if so any pointers would be helpful.  All other lights work without fault and live testing was done with a screwdriver as I do not have a test meter...a bulb will light between live and earth in the circuit.


texts: Can anyone tell me what the blue and yellow wires are? I know the red is the hot. Is the blue or yellow wire a neutral wire?


texts: Changing straight staircase to a turned stair with half landing, is this the Only solution to stairs cutting loft in half?

texts:
This terraced house has stairs rising from hallway and cutting across the middle of the house between two sitting rooms. This is repeated from first floor to attic leaving a loft cut in half with very little floor space at the full height level.

We have money to put a full width dormer on the rear of the loft but would like to have a shower room up there. This would go at the front but there is only a corridor width of space at either end of the hole for the stairs.

Is there a way of getting a shower room in? Should we look at turning the two stair cases with half landings so the stairs stay on one side and give more floor space in the loft?  Am assuming we have to do both for this to make any sense when it's finished.

I believe the direction of the boards, and so the direction of the joists is a big deal.


texts: Outlet tester shows "open ground" on GFCI outlet

texts:
I used a standard three-lamp outlet tester on an GFCI outlet, and it shows "open ground".  Should I be worried?

This is not a special "GFCI tester"; it's just an ordinary plug-in three-lamp receptacle tester.  I have tried multiple GFCI outlets throughout my house, and some of them show "correct", but two show "open ground".  I'm not sure whether to be concerned about that.

My impression is that GFCI outlets are sometimes used in places where there is no true ground available.  So, this makes me guess that the outlet tester might indeed show "open ground" on such an outlet, and that it won't be a
problem.  Is this correct?

(If it's relevant, these are pre-2016 GFCI outlets.)


texts: How to improve light quality from a bathroom exhaust fan?

texts:
I have an interior bathroom with no windows.  In the ceiling is a NuTone 763RLN exhaust fan with light bulb fixture.

This unit was built in 2003, so the only light bulb specification provided is "100 watts (max) [incandescent]".  However, the light emitted from a 100 watt incandescent bulb is very yellow for a bathroom with no windows.  I would like to find a solution that produces a "neutral white" (~3500K) light that is at least as bright as a 100 watt incandescent (1200-1600 lumens).

My concern is, of course, that a CFL or LED bulb is going to die quickly in an enclosed fixture that vibrates.

How do I find a solution to this?

I have already replaced the plastic lens that came with the exhaust fan.  The original, 13-year-old lens had yellowed.  The new lens improves the light quality, but not enough.  (I'm trying to avoid repainting the bathroom before putting the home on the market.)

I have already tried a low-wattage CFL that is designed for enclosed fixtures.  In this category, I have only found low output bulbs (800 lumens).  This is not enough to be an improvement.

Basically I am wondering if there are ways to mitigate the heat build-up and vibration in this environment.  Or I'm looking for assurance that a certain type of bulb will last longer, under these conditions, than I am led to believe by the bulb documentation.

Alternatively, perhaps I could find an even better type of lens to cover the bulb enclosure.  The new one that I just purchased is translucent, color-neutral plastic.  Perhaps somebody makes a compatible lens that transmits the light of an incandescent 100 watt bulb in a more pleasing way.


texts: 2 different sets of downlights off the same switch. How to wire?

texts:
I am going to be changing a bedroom ceiling rose into 2 different sets of downlights. The first set is the main room lighting and the second is in cabinet lighting. Both of which I would like to switch on using the same room switch.

My question is how best to add the second set of cabinet lights. Should they be added on to the end of the downlights loop or have their own wiring?

I have drawn 2 diagrams showing what I mean.

The two lights in question are the main room lights:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-ftype-fixed-fire-rated-led-downlight-white-600lm-6w-220-240v/6092t

And some mini downlights:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3WIndoor-Recessed-LED-Cabinet-Light-Mini-Spotlight-Small-Ceiling-Lamp-Downlight/254407149000?hash=item3b3bd905c8:m:mOo9ZORoSX-ylBP9pHDUgOQ


texts:
I have an old house that was remodeled with a bathroom addition added years ago. I have two breaker panels: the outside service entrance panel (A) and another panel in the garage (B). I found bonds from neutral to ground at the service entrance panel (A) and in the garage panel (B).

The service entrance panel (A) was added for the remodel; it has a 125 amp breaker that feeds the garage panel (B) (3 wires: 2 hot and 1 neutral but no ground). It also feeds the bathroom addition. The neutral and ground are bonded in both panels.

What panel should have the neutral and ground bond?


texts: I bought a used refrigerator from a used appliance store.  It was running when purchased, unplugged, and loaded upright onto the truck and has been that way since Friday.  Once it is brought inside the house, does it need to sit for a time before plugging in?


texts: How can I replace a single bulb light with a fluorescent fixture?

texts:
I would like to replace a single light bulb light in the closet with a fluorescent fixture.  The bulb is wired with two black hots to the light bulb fixture and the white neutrals are wired together.  With the power off at the switch and the light off, both blacks are hot.  With the switch turned on the light lights up.  The switch has typical wiring with neutral white and hot black.  This has worked this way for 38 years.

The fluorescent light fixture has the typical black and white (one each) leads to the ballast?  Can/should I simply wire the white to a black hot and the lack to black?  Doesn't seem proper.


texts: Why is my water heater still running if I cut the main line due to water problem located in my house

texts: I had to cut off my main line, but why is the water heater still running.


texts: Why does my garage still have power when the house main is shut off?

texts: I still have power in my garage.. I cant figure out why I still have power  on. It's a new garage built on to the house.


texts: Spray Foam Insulation Health Concerns - Alternative Spray Foam Products

texts:
I am looking to gather facts (although I am sure there will be a fair amount of opinions) about spray foam insulation and the health concerns associated with the install and everyday living. I mainly want to focus on closed cell but I will include the open cell as part of this topic.

The first thing that I have looked into are the different types of spray foam. So far I have come across Icynene and Polyurethane. It seems that Icynene is the open celled version and Polyurethane is the closed cell version.

Description Reference

Polyurethane

  Polyurethane foam (commonly used in foam roofing and insulation) is
  based on petroleum byproducts, although there are 'green' versions,
  made partly from soy byproducts (instead of pure petroleum), which
  contain less HCFC and CFC gases. All types of sprayed polyurethane
  foam contain millions of tiny closed cells filled with HCFC or CFC
  gases. A blowing agent agitates the plastics causing the bubbles to
  form, and the material hardens within about one minute. Sprayed
  polyurethane foam is inherently water resistant due to its closed cell
  structure.

Icynene

  Icynene foam is different because it is based on Castor oil (not
  plastics, also known as petroleum by-products) and it does not trap
  air in the cells. The resulting Icynene cells are open--which means no
  gases are trapped in the cells, so air-infiltration is possible. Due
  to air and vapor movement, Icynene foam does not insulate as well as
  closed cell foam. In contrast, closed cell foam completely traps
  vapors, completely blocking air migration--which enhances the
  insulating capacity of polyurethane foam. Icynene foam is more ideal
  for applications where some air or vapor must pass through the foam,
  while polyurethane foam completely blocks air and vapor transmission.

Now, looking at the two. My research so far brings up the following as potential health concerns.

Polyurethane Risks Reference 1 Reference 2

  Isocyanates, such as MDI (methylene diphenyl diisocyanate), are highly
  reactive chemicals that can cause skin, eye, and lung irritation,
  asthma, and chemical sensitization when absorbed through the skin or
  inhaled.

Although this mainly focuses on application, a few 'claims' have been made that the chemicals keep getting released after the insulation and waiting periods of 36-72 hours. Reference 3

Icynene Risks Reference 4

  Icynene brand, like similar brands of foam insulation, is composed of
  almost 50% isocyanates

Again, like the other type, we encounter isocyanates which is where we get a lot of the issues like the first one.

This bring me to my main question.
Assuming that Isocyanate is the main issue and the stem of the health concerns(secondary question below in regards to that), is there an alternative spray foam product that has less health concerns? (ie. without Isocyanate or different application method) I am looking for a spray foam alternative, not just an alternative insulation. (so cellulose doesn't fit).

These are more secondary questions that don't necessarily need to be answered. Its just nice to include as much info as possible since they are all related.

Most the articles I have seen have been a few years old. Not many current ones. Has the technology changed or any new advancements been made over the past couple years that make it safer or provide better insight? Any studies or expanded research would be helpful.
Is there a way to test potential reactions ahead of time? Kind of like getting an allergy test? For instance, going to a week old insulation and just spending a couple hours in the room? or just touching the foam to skin to see if a reaction occurs?
We have dogs and that is also a consideration. Has there been any research regarding the effects on pets that should be taken into account as well?
My question assumes that Isocyanate is the main center issue with the spray foam insulation. Is it valid to assume that, or is the issue more related to a combo of chemicals or application method?


texts: How to remove an external dryer vent cover when it's covered by stucco?

texts:
I don't know who built this house but they did it stupidly.

I need to replace my external dryer vent cover because one of the fins broke.  However, it seems like whoever built the house, covered the edges of the vent with stucco instead of attach it to the house with screws.

I think the previous owner ran into the same problem and just put screen mesh over the problem.  I want to fix the problem correctly (which is replace this vent cover) but I don't see any way other than breaking into the stucco.

Is there any advice on how to fix this problem or is putting the screen mesh the only way to address this issue without breaking into the stucco and making this a bigger and more expensive issue?

I hope the photo has enough resolution since it originally was larger than 2MB.


texts: Blower Motor Single "Stutter" when Condenser comes online

texts:
I recently moved into a new home. This home has two stories and each story has its own AC system. Both units were replaced about 2 years ago. Both units are 3 ton Carrier Units. Everything is identical for both units (blower, furnace, condenser...).

As part of any new home purchase we had an inspection done. We also had the company that installed the AC perform an AC specific check up as part of the home purchase. Both units seemed to be running fine. The house stays cool and dry during hot humid days.

The problem.... I recently noticed that when the downstairs AC comes online to cool the house, the blower "stutters" once (the blower comes on then right away slows down/turns off then back on). This only happens one time as the unit starts to cool. It happens very quickly, but I can definitely tell the blower slows or stops for fraction of a second. The upstairs unit (identical) does not do this.

Both blower units are 58STA070-16. Since both of the thermostats are identical (aprilaire 8400 series), I just switched the thermostat faceplates between upstairs and downstairs. That did not make any difference. Upstairs continued to work normally and the downstairs continued to stutter.

I turned on just the fan without setting the temperature low enough for the compressor to come online. When I did this, the fan came online normally without a stutter. Then I adjusted the thermostat temperature down so that the compressor comes online. When the compressor came online, the fan did a single stutter and continued to work normally after that.

So is this normal? Will this shorten the life of my blower? What could be causing this?

Thank you for your thoughts,

Anario


texts:
So my wife finally gave me permission to go ahead and buy a smart lock to add to the rest of our growing smart home gadgets. I'm looking at the Schlage Connect. We currently have a separate deadbolt and doorknob, both with locks that use the same key. They have "Dexter by Schlage" branding on them.

My question is- if I replace the deadbolt with the Schlage Connect and the doorknob itself with a non-locking options (else you could lock yourself out if that one gets locked and you depend upon the keypad to get in!), can I replace the pins in the Schlage Connect with those from the previous deadbolt so I can continue to use the same key?


texts: loose newel post with some type of plate underneath, how to tighten

texts: I have a newel post with a plate underneath, see attached picture. It is wobbly. I have tried using pocket screws to secure the post, however they get stuck at what I believe to be this plate. What is this plate? How can I remove it/tighten the post?


texts: What is behind my plasterboard!? Studs appear to be random in position and length!

texts:
I'm hoping to mount a 23kg tv on an articulating mount to a plasterboard wall and I gather they are supposed to have studs running vertically behind them with even spacings... BUT, stud finder is absolutely useless and just says the entire wall is one giant electrical wire with edges everywhere... and if you try the tapping the wall technique you may find a solid part amongst all the hollow bits - which you assume is a stud - but it doesn't run vertically up and down it just ends after a little bit like it's more of a "patch" than a vertical beam..!

Does anyone know what this indicates?

Also does anyone know how far behind the actual surface of the wall the brick wall is ? I'm starting to think it might easier to screw the tv mount all the way through the plaster into the brick wall if this is even possible. My other alternative was using a ply board across a broad span of the wall to get into as many solid bits as possible.

The house is around 12 years old and in the UK and looks quite "new".


texts: Two Circuits down and no Breakers Tripped

texts: I had one 110V circuit running four CPU (13v) devices (Laptop, Switching hub etc) and a completely separate 220v circuit running two CPU Servers (13v output 1,300W draw each).  This set up had been running for two months as is no problems.  Yesterday I added a third server to the 220v circuit and it ran flawlessly for an hour or so.  Then ALL of it went down..... both the 110v and the 220v circuits.  I checked and neither breaker had gone (I reset them anyway).  I flipped the main breaker and no difference.  I grabbed my wire tester and it lit up on both lines all the way to the devices yet NONE of the devices are working.  No smoke, no bad smells no fire no nothing.  Is there such an issue as a ground wire needing to be upgraded or some such thing that would allow pos juice to flow to an outlet yet not allow a device to power up?  I'm not an electrician clearly if it needs to be said lol.  Thanx very much for any input you may have.


texts: How to straighten a curved/crooked brick wall?

texts:
So yesterday I was trying to put up a frame using 3M command strips and they kept on coming off because only half the strip was actually touching the wall. Then I realised the whole wall was actually curved, the deepest part of the curve being around 1cm in.

I've been looking at videos at existing threads but everything seems to be for drywall something or other. I live in an apartment, so the wall is solid brick + plaster. What would be the best way to go about straightening the wall?


texts: How to stop the humming noise coming from my gas furnace when on Auto Heat?

texts:
My gas furnace makes a humming noise when on Auto Heat, like as if the blower motor or capacitor was bad.

However, the blower turns on and sounds fine when thermostat is set to fan ON rather than Auto, so this indicates that the blower seems ok.

It seems like the furnace is getting the heat request, and the furnace is requesting that the blower turns on, because it is making the humming noise.

If the pilot light was out I wouldn't expect the blower to hum. Could it be that the the capacitor is bad; ould it be that the motor is not starting under heat request, but starting when set to ON, because this is a different motor speed?

There was some noise previously before the blower would start, and then shortly afterward the blower would stop. Like as if there where a 2nd rotating component having trouble.

Any ideas on what the problem is? Any help would be appreciated.


texts: Can I replace 3-way switches with 4-way switches?

texts: Can I replace 2-3way switches with 2-4way switches as I have a couple of new 4ways just sitting around and the 3way switches are the older style ( every other switch in the house is the new style)


texts: Can a mix of receptacles and light fixtures be installed on a single circuit?

texts:
A while ago we had some renovations done in our house. After the electrician was done, we realized we now had one light switch in our kitchen that was no longer connected to anything. It is in a 2-gang box. The other switch in that box still is connected to a light in the kitchen. Suffice it to say that this isn't exactly what we wanted, but the electrician is done and won't be coming back.

So, now we have this useless switch and are trying to decide what to do with it. It happens to be above the counter (and it's more than 6 feet from the sink -- if that matters). So, we thought it might make sense to replace the switch with a receptacle, giving us an extra place along the counter where we can plug in small kitchen appliances (toaster, food processor, what have you). My question is, are there any problems with mixing receptacles and light fixtures on the same circuit? Does it make any difference if it is in a kitchen?

I realize that this means that if an appliance plugged into the receptacle trips the breaker, the lights will also go out. I'm personally not concerned about that.


texts: Can I really use construction adhesive to attach hardwood stair treads and risers?

texts:
I've been considering removing the carpet from my stairs, and installing hardwood flooring instead.  While preparing for this project, I started watching YouTube videos.

A lot of the videos show guys simply sticking the treads and risers down, with only construction adhesive.  Is this a legitimate technique for installing hardwood stairs? Are modern construction adhesives really strong enough to hold the treads in place, without any other fasteners?


texts: 120V measured between different outlet grounds

texts:
I'm experiencing some electrical issues with the apartment I'm subletting. While connecting up a projector/speaker setup using outlets from different sides of the room, we discovered (through means of frying our electronics) that the grounds on each side of the room are at different potentials.

When measured with a multimeter from the ground pin of one outlet to the ground of the outlet across the room, we get 120VAC. Keeping the same reference ground pin across the room, neutral also measures at 120VAC and power measures at 0VAC.

It seems like one of the outlets must have it's wiring backwards, but a visual inspection of the wires (at least the outlet side) checks out and an outlet tester claims they are all correct.

Will that outlet tester detect if neutral and ground are powered and power is grounded? Is that condition particularly dangerous?

Note: I'm not proposing that I do any of the electrical work myself, I'm just curious about what went wrong and where.


texts:
Needed a door that matches that the doors from 1940s in my house. So I bought a 30" door on Craigslist and cut it down to 23" by cutting out the middle of the door as you can see in the pictures.
I'm faced with two decisions that I would like some expert opinions on:

My initial plan was to install a new panel, but now I'm wondering whether it's possible to join the two halves of the old panel. They are 5/16" (or 11/32"). Is that enough thickness for some kind of rabbet joining strategy?

As far as joining the two halves of the door together, I have three strategies in mind:
a. Glue them straight up
b. Use dowels
c. Drill the entire 23" width of the door in three places and use 1/4" all-thread.

What would you recommend?


texts: How do I smooth out where painted wallpaper meets wall?

texts:
When I bought my current house wallpaper was everywhere.  And I noticed soon after that the painted kitchen was a painted kitchen without removing the top border - comes down maybe 10 inches.

You can only notice is in certain parts and with really good lighting... So what is the easiest way to deal with this before I repaint?

I am really looking for materials (mud, spackle, whatever) and tools used as a best practice.


texts:
My inlay soles are wearing and renewing them is expensive (they are custom made for my feet). I decided to make my own by making a mold and filling the mold with shredded cork. I have not done any experiments jet but was planning on using wood adhesive to turn the granulated cork into one piece of agglomerated cork. What adhesive should I use for cork?

Clay mold:

Example of agglomerated cork from wikimedia:


texts: Trane humidifier control switch replacement

texts:
The control switch that came with bypass humidifier installed with my Trane heat pump started acting up - only turns humidifier water on when I turn the dial all the way to max. I'm thinking I need to replace it. It seems to have only 2 contacts, so my guess is I can just buy any other control switch, like this one and put it in instead:

https://smile.amazon.com/Aprilaire-4655-Manual-Humidistat/dp/B002VNEZX2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479092706&sr=8-3&keywords=humidifier+control+switch

Am I right, or there's more to it?

thanks


texts: My toilet seat hinge busted, so I'm replacing the whole thing. It's a Duravit Starck 3 seat. I'm trying to remove the old hinges, which are screwed into plastic things that are a permanent part of the toilet itself (there's no way to get inside/underneath, new ones were not supplied). The problem is, as I turn the screws on the old hinges, the plastic things just rotate in the holes so I can't unscrew them. What should I do?


texts: Red Hot leg of 14/3 cable disconnected at panel but still picking current somewhere from the other leg.  Circuit breaker does not trip.  Everything works ok on the good leg. How do I find the fault?


texts: Sizing electrical wire from Solar Panels

texts:
Our home has a 200 AMP main service disconnect and a 200 AMP sub-panel inside the house.  The barn is about 200 feet away with a small sub-panel and is currently fed by a an overhead 8/3 wire.  I plan to install solar panels on the barn roof (5-kw array) and connect the inverter to to the barn's sub-panel.

Do I need to increase the size of the wire feeding the barn?  It will be carrying all the electricity produced by the solar panels.  How do I know what size wire is appropriate?  Also, I plan to put any replacement wire underground in conduit.

Thanks for your help.


texts: Cleaning fridge and freezer - do you need to turn it off?

texts:
I'm doing a bit of a clean of my fridge and freezer (dual unit) and I have heard you should turn your fridge/freezer off when cleaning - since I am not doing a complete/deep clean of it and I don't have many items in there I was wanting to keep it running.

Is there any particular reason you should turn it off when cleaning? ...or is that just a "save power" kind of thing? ...or does it let off particles of gas or something when running that you shouldn't be breathing in that long?


texts:
So we're doing a tear-out of the second half of our kitchen, and we came across some old batt insulation in the wall chases from the forty eight company(one of the companies sued out of business from the class-action mesothelioma litigation). The house was built in 1872, but it was extended twice, once in 1910, and once again around 1940. This area is in the 1940s extension.

I've read online that batt rolls rarely contain asbestos, but I was wondering if anyone who has dealt with this specific brand before knows if it contains asbestos or not? It's greyish in color. The insulation itself says 'copr-fibre', but I can't find any information about it.


texts: Need to run Romex down along support beam into new wall below beam

texts:
This view is looking up from beneath the support beam between unfinished space (to the right, where the duct is) and what will soon be finished space (left).  There will be no face on the right side, only drywall faced to the left.
Ignore the cat6 for now.  The yellow Romex is coming from the breaker panel and I need it to feed receptacles that will be in that wall (which will be below the top plate, which is now incorrectly stamped 'STUD').  The darker, older wood is the center support beam of our house.
So I think I just have to go completely around the support beam and run down inside the new wall.  Is the way I'm doing this okay, assuming the wire is stapled to the ceiling, beam, top plate, and wall stud?
There are other locations in the house where wiring is routed through drilled vertical holes in the beam.  I like my house, so I will not be doing that.
If this is not okay, what other options do I have?  Drilling diagonally (where and how?)  Metal clad?  What's the requirement in this situation?  I can't really find anything online that matches this.


texts: Questions about installing an electrical subpanel (re: wire size, etc)

texts:
My current electrical panel is filled and I'm going to have a pool installed this year so I need to install a subpanel.  (my current box doesn't support tandem breakers, etc)

Because I only need more space (and don't need it in a different location/building), I'm going to place the subpanel a few feet away from the main panel.

What do I need to know before installing it?

Do I need it a certain distance away from the main panel?
Can I have the sub-panel behind the main air duct off the furnace?
What size wire do I need?  The only loads I will have is an above ground pool (pump, filter, gas pool heater) and one or two circuits moved from the main panel to the subpanel so I can connect the subpanel to the filled main panel.

I still have some research to do, but I'm thinking 8/3 wire with a 40A breaker?


texts: What can I build/use for a door in an old barn?

texts:
I have a very small barn/chicken coop on my land that we basically use as a shed.  It currently has a standard door on it.  However I just got a new riding lawnmower and would like to store it in said barn.  It needs a ramp (there is a lip) and it won't fit through the door.

I am looking for ideas on what kind of door I could use/make.  The door is situated about 8 inches from one of the corners of the barn and there are no other windows on the door side.  If I were to slap on a 36" hinged door it would open to the inside and be hitting a window on the perpendicular wall.

Cheap would be great, easy to use is a plus, cool looking, and most of all sturdy.  I may lock the door (in any way) but security isn't a huge issue as someone who was looking to steal things would have other entries.


texts: How can I build a mantel around my fireplace?

texts:
I am new to posting on this site but have been reading it for a while! My wife asked me to redo our fireplace mantel. When I got the drywall off I noticed that the studs are not exactly uniform. I want to install a VERY basic wood square mantel. Does anybody have suggestions on the best way to

build the mantel?
Attach it securely to the wall using the stud layout?

The studs:

The mantel I would like to build:


texts: Installing base cabinets - screwing to the wall and each other?

texts:
This weekend I'll be building a couple of base cabinets to replace some of the existing ones, which I assume are original to the house (circa 1960s).  I consider myself handy but have never built cabinets before.  I've done a lot of research, purchased a pocket hole jig, and have most other common tools. The cabinets will be face frames, 3/4 plywood boxes with poplar rails and stiles and 1/4 inch plywood backs.

Thee kitchen layout is an L shape.  One run will be 5 1/2 feet long, replacing an existing run of 3 separate cabinet boxes, which I'll now be making as one unit.  It will meet an existing lazy susan corner cabinet.  A small 12 inch cabinet will be made to meet the other end of the corner box.  The cabinets will be painted - but I was attempting to hide all of the fasteners anyway (pocket holes, end panels, etc).

My question relates to installing, and comes in two parts.

Q1: Securing to Other Cabinets

The existing cabinets are screwed together, side to side, right through the face frames with big counter sunk screws.  It seems other people practice this method as well.  It seems silly to go through the trouble of hiding fasteners and building nice boxes if I'm going to have these big fat screws visible.  Is there another method?  The only place this will apply is where to two new boxes meet the corner box.

Q2: Securing to the House

The next question is related.  The existing cabinets appear to have a couple of drywall screws through the back panel into the wall, close to the top.  While it irks me to have exposed screws again, I can get over it as they'll be up behind the drawers.  I'm mostly concerned about trusting the screw through the 1/4 inch panel.  The existing cabinets seem ok, but do wiggle a small amount if I try now that the counter is off. What is the proper way to secure base cabinets?  All of my searches turn up discussions about hanging wall cabinets, which I wont be doing.  Do I need to secure to the floor? The corner box is "floating" away from the wall and appears to be nailed or screwed through the toe kick, but its difficult to figure out whats going on down there.

Any tips are appreciated. Thank you!


texts: Code compliance of using UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) shims for deck leveling

texts:
I'm building a deck that will partially sit on an existing concrete slab. Slab is slated and I need to level the joists with shims. I'm planning to use custom cut UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) pieces as shims, as they're much more durable than wood. But I'm not sure if they would give me a headache later when I try to sell the house; i.e., if an inspector sees them, would he/she/they raise it as an issue?
I live in Beaverton, Oregon. Any help is much appreciated.


texts: What can I use to create a "chair rail effect" for my outdoor privacy fence to separate the two different materials?

texts:
This is a question on improving the aesthetic of my outdoor space. I did an extension panel on my cinderblock fence to help improve privacy and I'm very happy with the look. I used shade fabric that is supported with some wood and EMT piping that I attached to the upper half of the wall to make the total height approximately 8ft. My question is I'd like to run some type of strip along the wall that would sort of look like a chair rail that I'll paint a medium gray (accent color of our home to tie it all in together).
The reason why I'm asking for advice is because I live in the desert and the temps can get to 121 degrees in August. So I am not sure if lumber would be the best bet. I wasn't sure if some sort of metal flashing that I can prime and paint might be better since it won't warp. I'm open to ideas. But since I'm painting it a medium charcoal gray color I'm guessing that will also make this area absorb more of the hot desert sun. I'm just looking for something that is about three to four inches wide that I can buy in 8ft lengths or longer and attach to the .5" thick wood that is running along the middle of the wall (where the shade fabric was stapled to the bottom). Of course, something lightweight would be important. Here is a photo to help with a visual. The lighter color below is the painted cinderblock. The slightly darker color above is the shade fabric. The gray border would basically be a way to make the area look more finished:


texts: Is it normal to miter the non-pivoting edge of a door?

texts:
Recently I've seen someone miter the edge of a bathroom and closet door so it swings shut without hitting the door frame. I've never seen this before -- is it normal?

Clarification: The edge that was mitered was the part that would swing into the door frame first due to the angle the door is at while closing it.


texts: Mounting Ceiling Fan to Old Junction Box

texts:
I would like to install a new ceiling fan, but when I removed the light fixture I found an old junction box. The box is about 3 inches deep but tapers to create a rim which is level with the ceiling. The ceiling is plaster and there appears to be a layer of wood under it. It's hard for me to tell what the junction box is screwed to. I'm on the top floor of 1920's condo, so I don't have access to view it from above (attic,etc).  I'm hoping someone might be familiar with old junction boxes to help me determine what my next move should be. Thanks]1
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texts: Will having a joint between concrete beams weaken a structure?

texts:
My house is currently being constructed. It is a 20x60 foot plot. The boundary walls on the left and right sides are 4 inches thick. The beam on the right side 4-inch wall has been constructed. Now all the cross beams from left to right wall will have a joint with the already constructed beam on the right side wall. There are seven beams across the plot that are going to be constructed from left wall to right wall.

Will it diminish the strength of the house?

Is there any technique to fix the cross beams with the right wall beam so that there is no joint between the right wall beam and cross beams?


texts: Adding an outlet to a 3 way switch on 'far' end

texts:
I'd like to add an outlet near a 3-way-switch as it's the closest potential source.

My issue is that there is no constant load at this location; when I toggle the other switch the red and black wires at this switch alternate being "hot" (I tested using an a non contact voltage tester).

This is how my switch is currently wired:

                                  |------|
                    Black --------|Switch|
                    Red   --------|------|
                |-- White             |
                |   Ground            |
                |      |              |
                |      |              |
                |      |             Black
                |      |-----X-------Ground=====> to light fixture?
                |------------X-------White

Do I have a reasonable way of adding an 'always on' outlet 3 feet away from this switch without sacrificing the 3-way functionality?

Leviton sells this device which would appear to do what I want except the outlet is located on the switch itself. Do any of the terminals on this switch provide a hot/neutral sources that I can run a 14/2 wire from?

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5645-W-Combination-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U3BULU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=leviton+combination+switch+and+outlet+3-way&qid=1554754009&s=hi&sr=1-5

** Update **

I replaced the two switches with a Leviton WiFi Smart Switch and (3-way) Remote. This setup gives me a constant hot at the location I wanted and the outlet works  without issue.


texts: boiler cuts off at different temperatures for domestic hot water and radiant heating

texts:
When there is a call for heat from the house thermostat, the controller in the well of the boiler, which is set to 180F, shuts the boiler off when the boiler temp reaches 190F according to the pressure gauge (or sooner if the thermostat stops calling for heat).  I'm told a 10-degree variation is acceptable.

Yesterday, I replaced the Amtrol expansion tank because it had dripped a few drops of water down at the schrader valve, and I had been told that this meant the bladder inside had failed.

The system was off for several hours, during which time several showers were taken by family members. So the domestic hot water tank was cool when I turned the system back on.

It was a fairly warm day, and I had pushed the thermostat in the house down below 50F, and so only the domestic hot-water tank's aquastat was calling for heat. The aquastat was wired (not by me, but by the installers some years ago) to the main controller via a transformer.

The boiler did not shut off until the pressure/temp gauge read 215F. Shouldn't the 180F controller setting trump the aquastat's continued call for heat?


texts: I'm going to put in epoxy Pebblestone flooring in the basement.  My floor has the old 8x8 tiles.  They are all secure and have talked to people who say I can put the flooring over them.  Problem is I have a row of tiles which were loose and I have removed.  See the picture.  So do I just put a little more of the pebbles where these missing tiles are and ensure it is level?  Or should I put down some kind of underlay


texts: Mounting Electric range when stud is on the center line?

texts:
I am installing 50 amp circuit for a basic  30 " freestanding  electric range,  The range I settled on is 40 amp. The instructions included say they do not recommend a 50 amp power cord from the range to the outlet.
From the install instruction sheet:
"A range cord rated at 40 amps with 125/250 minimum volt range is required. A 50 amp range cord is not recommended..."
"This appliance must be supplied with the proper voltage and frequency, and connected to an individual, properly grounded, 40 amp (minimum) branch circuit protected by a circuit breaker or time-delay fuse."
"NOTE: Use a 4’ power cord to prevent interference with
the storage drawer. Power cords 4.5' to 6’ long may have
to be dressed to allow for proper drawer closing"

One one side is  the wall to the exterior of the house. The other side is  cabinet.
It appears there is a stud  16" from the outer wall.   This would mean the outlet center would only be 2" from near center of the stove.
The install instructions state either 3" or 4" off  the center line would be in the zone.
I will be coming up from the basement.
The 4 ft GE cord plug  would stick 1.4375 (1 7/16"  ) from the wall.
Will this plug really be in the way if outlet is in center?, Will the cord really not allow it to go back were it needs?
Installation instructions here (PDF file from Home Depot)
Note the stove is on order. I assume the back looks as in the PDF but can not confirm
I want the outlet to be installed before the oven arrives so I can test the range.
What is the fix if the only stud is near the center of this oven?


texts: How can I extend this clothes washer drain pipe to reach the sink?

texts:
Installing a new washer, I found the drain hose is too short to reach the sink it will drain into. The old washer had the drain hose coming out of the right side of the appliance but this one has the hose coming out of the left side.

There is a standpipe in the ground in front of the washer, but it has much too little vertical drop to be used for the washer. So, I need to get the washer draining into the sink as the last one did.

How can I extend the washer's drain hose without it leaking? Turning the water on only during a wash will help avoid any bad leaks, and beneath the drain hose is just concrete in a utility room that is very dry most of the time (low humidity, moisture seeps into floors only during big snowmelts) so some leaking is not catastrophic - still I'd rather set this up so it works properly by design.

The major challenge I see is the washer drain hose being horizontal when I extend it fully. Horizontal pipe couplings seem more prone to leak to my non-expert intuition. If I coupled the washer's hose with an extension vertically, it would add a significant amount of turns and length to the overall drain hose.

Here's the setup:

Washer and sink. Washer's drain hose starts on far end of washer.

Here's the far end of the washer, where its drain hose starts.

Here's a close up of the drain hose reaching toward the sink.

Another close up of the washer's drain hose. Note that it is semi soft, especially at the end of the hose.

Can I just find a rubber hose that has a diameter large enough to contain the washer's hose, then insert the washer's hose ~1 inch into the larger diameter extension, and clamp them together using a hose clamp?


texts: How can I prevent moisture from damaging my tools overnight?

texts:
I just bought a Nissan NV200, which I've had outfitted with a partition and shelves.  My tools stay in the vehicle and after a really cold night, I find a fair bit of condensation on them.

I've tried running the defrost on high, even the AC to dehumidify, but until the tools warm up, they'll collect whatever moisture is in the air.

How do you manage moisture in your vehicles ?


texts: How close (vertically) can I safely relocate a lag screw in a stud?

texts:
I'm mounting a pull-up bar (see image below) by means of 3/8" lag screws in wooden studs. I messed up one of the top holes (missed the center of the stud - the bolt went in partially & then veered off to the side significantly).  I'd like to re-mount the bar as close to its original vertical position as possible. What's the nearest vertical distance from the previous lag bolt holes that would be safe to put new ones?  It's a load-bearing (exterior) wall, and the bar extends out 33" from the wall, so it will have significant pull-out force.

(If I move the bar up significantly higher, it will be difficult to reach for the shorter people in the house; if I move it significantly lower, my feet will hit the ground. Thus, as close to its previous location as possible - without compromising the integrity of the stud - would be ideal).


texts: Do I need a junction box for a hardwired stove?

texts:
I'm replacing my drop-in electric stove with a free-standing electric stove (both are rangetop + oven). The drop-in stove was hardwired and the wiring comes up out of a hole in the floor about 3" from the wall.  The old stove was connected to a junction box with 12 gauge wire in flexible conduit, but the junction box was just floating around on the floor behind the cabinets--it wasn't fastened in place on the floor or to the wall.

Because the new stove requires 10 gauge or larger wiring and the store wasn't open when I needed to install the new stove, I "temporarily" connected the new stove directly to the really thick wire coming out of the floor (removing the junction box and 12 gauge wiring).  Is it acceptable to leave the new stove like this, or must I install a junction box between the stove and the wire that runs to the breaker panel?


texts:
Hello:  I have a wall mount light fixture that uses 5 globe type bulbs.  I have had the fixture for about 10 years, recently each time I replace a bulb - the new bulb burns out within a few hours.  Only the two end bulbs remain lighted.

Can someone let me know what might be causing the 3 bulbs to keep burning out so quickly?  I've been using both GE & Sylvania 40 watt incandescent bulbs.


texts:
The cast iron portion of the vent pipe in my attic has rotted off. I need some guidance on how to go about replacing the cast iron portion with PVC. Particularly, I'm unsure of what diameter PVC I should get, and how to connect PVC to the metal vent stack.
Overview image:

Side angle of vent stack connection where the cast iron pipe rotted off from:

Close up of the vent stack hole:

I called several plumbers around my area to get an estimate. Typically I like to get at least 3 estimates, but all the plumbers required a service fee of $40 just to come out. While I don't mind paying people a fair price for their services, being out $120 before any work is done is something I'd like to avoid. While I have zero expertise with this type of work, this looks like a relatively straight forward job. The one place that reluctantly gave me a ballpark figure without coming out said it would be around $599...
Any help/suggestions appreciated. Thanks!


texts: How does this 50 year old shower valve work?

texts:
I'm in a bind, with this valve taken out of the wall and the water supply turned off.

It looks like these pieces are all intact, nothing broken. The valve stem screws into what I would call the valve seat, but the valve seat doesn't have anything to keep it from spinning freely, so I am unable to see how the valve works reliably.

The stem is quite long, and its not easy to look inside the valve unit inside the wall. So I can't add anything to the description about that.

Underneath the upper end of the valve (the part that holds everything in place and is visible in the picture at the opposite end from the valve seat), there was a fiber washer. I was thinking it provided pressure on the valve seat to keep it from spinning, but the original washer wash not very elastic at all.

Update

I was able put the valve back together with some guess work by putting some stem packing as shown in the photo below:

This didn't assure me that I had it properly put together, but it removed the urgency, as I now have a working valve.

In th mean time, I learned that this valve is probably the American Standard Version II Tub Shower Stem of the Re-Nu style. I found this on a restoration plumbing website. These are described as from Art Deco fixtures from the 1930s to 1950s, which puts it in the right period.

The restoration site supplies reproductions with a modification at the end of what I have been calling the "seat". They call it the "barrel". The modified barrel has a rubber o-ring at the end (on the outside).

I am not sure about stem packing, but repair kits show a part that may be for stem packing. I think this would be necessary, and I'm guessing the original stem packing disintegrated over many years.

If anyone can explain more fully and correctly how this valve should be repaired, I'll accept the answer.


texts:
My toilet cistern is leaking water straight into the toilet, just as fast as the cistern is filling. I don't know all the terminology but the washer that forms a seal between the pipe that drains down, and the siphon itself had a big blister on it that I popped, and now looks almost as good as new. It's very smooth, apart from one microscopic bobble where the blister was. However it's still pouring down, as if there's something else wrong with it. I did try to get a replacement washer, but the only one the plumber's merchant had looks the same (it's a Gerberit one, my old one is unbranded) but it's slightly thicker and a bit wider. This is the siphon (can't see a brand name on there)...

And here it is with the old washer attached (notice the washer doesn't go all the way to the edge, which I would have thought was necessary?!)

It slots and then 'twists to lock' into place in this...

I can understand a tiny bit of water leaking in given that it's not 100% perfect, but it's still leaking torrents so I wondered if anyone knows if something else could be broken inside (in addition to the washer). Should I just get a new siphon?

I can provide more pics / details if necessary. Really appreciate any help.

Thanks

Richard


texts: How can I paint furniture with a laminate finish?

texts:
Is it possible to paint furniture that is made of particle board and has a laminate finish that makes it appear as if it is solid wood? Essentially cheap furniture. I have an entertainment center than is made like this but it is light colored where all of our other furniture is dark color. If possible we would like to paint it without it looking completely awful.

Are there any techniques for doing this?


texts: Ok to use green Spax lags as anchors in block wall?

texts: I've got a basement project where I'm attaching 3in studs over 1 inch foam to a block wall (built ~1952). I was planning on using Tapcons, but the threads are not holding. The 1/4 green Spax lags look like they would do the trick, but my concern is - will they will rust out over time?


texts: Is this DIY pull up bar and dips station structurally sound and is it a good solution?

texts:
The gyms in my area are closed. I am renting a house, so I can't permanently attach anything to my residence. My back yard is small and lacks trees of any size or any secure mounting points.

So, I'd like to design something to work out with during the lock down that doesn't break the bank since I may be on the bubble for getting laid off in the next few months if the economy doesn't turn around. And, ya, I realize I can do body weight work outs and resistance bands and so on (which I've been doing). But something like the attached picture would be very helpful.

Please let me know if this design is structurally sound for pull ups and dips. It uses 1.25" galvanized pipe and kee (or similar) clamps. I need this to be able to be disassembled and moved when I eventually move out of this rental and/or am able to go back to the gym so wood is probably out of the question. And very importantly, I need to minimize the cost.

3rd iteration adding additional diagonal supports:


texts:
I noticed this dried, sprayed looking, brown/yellowish stuff on my basement wall and looked up and it’s underneath one of the toilets.

I then had someone flush the toilet and saw nothing leaking out from anywhere. I noticed a little darkness around the main toilet pipe and a few drips of same looking stuff on other pipe.

Any idea of what this is or why it happened?
Please let me know if pictures are not viewable. Thank you.


texts: Permanent greenhouse structure materials

texts:
I'm planning a permanent greenhouse structure that will be attached on one wall to my house. The estimated size will be about 16ft wide, 45ft long, with the lowest wall being approximately 9ft tall and sloping up to about 15ft. I will be fabricating/assembling the structure myself. I'm looking for advice on material choices for the frame.

There are several material options I've considered for the frame:

Wood (Cedar/Redwood)
Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP)
Rebar
EMT Conduit
Square steel tubing

The roof and walls will be tempered single pane glass.

I've mostly disregarded wood and FRP as viable options. Rot-resistant wood species like cedar or redwood are too costly, and in order to make a structure that is strong enough, the framing members would need to be large and bulky, which causes excessive shading and blocking of precious sunlight. FRP is stiff and durable, but is difficult to work with and is also very expensive.

Metal framing members, in the correct configuration, can be very strong, durable, and do not cast a lot of shadow. I believe the most efficient way to implement roof supports is to use a series of truss beams running the short direction of the structure. They would look something like this:

These truss beams could be manufactured easily and cheaply from either 1/2" EMT conduit or 3/8" to 1/2" steel rebar. EMT conduit is lighter weight, and slightly cheaper, but is galvanized which makes welding more dangerous and more difficult. Rebar is heavier but does not have any coating which makes welding more successful. Another option might be small dimension thin wall square steel tubing, but I don't know how easily available this would be for me.

Which material would be best suited for this application?


texts:
I have a hallway door that is 1 3/4" thick.  I'd like to be able to see through the door, what is the best way to go about this?
I see glass panes are available for purchase  Here  but all that  I   find say "for steel or fiberglass doors only".
What should be used for wood doors?


texts: How does decalcifying work, and is it something I need?

texts: We recently had to replace our water heater because of lack of hot water, age (12 years to the day almost) and sediment build up (it was higher than the lower element; we purchased the home 7 months ago). While the plumber was here (we had extreme difficulty getting the elements out to initially change that we opted to call in a professional) he told us that our pipes are most likely in need of decalcifying, which is a product they sell for just over $2000. We are not handy people, nor do we know a lot about plumbing which is why I am asking lots of questions to get some answers before going forward with such a large purchase. Can anyone tell me about this process, if it is needed, if it is something we can sit, etc etc.


texts: Why does my ceiling fan pop and sizzle at one speed setting but works fine at another?

texts:
My ceiling fan that has been installed for 11 years will pop 1 time when I turn it on. Yesterday it popped when I turned it on then a few minutes later it started to make a sizzling noise followed by a burnt smell. It stopped turning but came back on a few minutes later when I pulled the chain to a slower speed.

Is the fan safe to operate? What should I check for?


texts: Two light fixtures controlled from four different locations using three way and four way switches; the feed is at the first light fixture.


texts: What does the low limit do, and where should it be set on an oil fired hot water furnace?

texts:
What does the low limit do, and where should it be set? My furnace has
a honeywell  triple aquastat relay and has a difference dial.  Water temp is about 190 deg F.     Also, water psi gauge is only showing about 10 lbs. does not appear to move.


texts: Just started to renovate my mother's kitchen and already got some of the appliances to install but I realized there's a 3-prong dryer outlet instead of a stove outlet when I removed the counter top stove. Should I call an electrician to get it replaced or is there an adapter I could use for it?


texts: Why do my halogen lamps keep burning out?

texts:
In my kitchen, there are 5 halogen lamps, connected in parallel to a 12VAC transformer. The bulbs have rated life of 2000h, but I seem to be getting only about 60 hours out of them.
I measured the voltage at the terminals of the transformer to be 11.9VAC. The fixtures are well ventilated, I do not power-cycle them excessively and the rest of the devices in the household work just fine (my fluorescent bulbs are into their 5th year). I take care not to touch the bulbs with my oily hands when installing.
What could the problem be? A collegue suggested adding a voltage rectifier, but I believe the root problem is something else than the alternating current? Plus those guys seem to have some complicated chemistry going on inside them.

Update 4 years later:
The led lights have perhaps double life of the halogens.
I have a section of (extremely ugly) halogens hanging in thin air by the wires. They are now 12 years old and I have replaced one of them once. Draw your own conclusions.


texts: Can I integrate my over-the-range microwave hood's lights with my under cabinet lights?

texts:
I have a combination microwave/range hood installed above my range. It has a light on it, which shines down onto the range and is controlled by a button labeled "Surface Light" on the front of the microwave/hood:

I also have under cabinet lights in my kitchen, which I frequently use while cooking. They are on an occupancy sensor switch, so they turn on even when I'm cooking and my hands are full. But because the Surface Light on the hood is a separate control, I rarely bother to turn it on.

I'd like to have the hood's Surface Light turn on automatically whenever the under cabinet lights are on. Is that possible? Or is there some reasonable way to install a new light, wired with the other under cabinet lights, under the hood?

In case it matters, the microwave/hood is a GE JVM7195SFSS. The surface lights are housed under the microwave and are two small halogen bulbs (model WB36X10213). The under-cabinet lights are chainable LED units, hard-wired in 3 spots.


texts: How to Hang Projector Screen from ceiling against wall?

texts:
Let me start off with a diagram

This is the projector screen in front of the wall. The vertical bars are the studs.

There are probably 4 or 5 more studs between the edges of the screen).
The frame of the projector has about a 3" gap from where the keyhole slots or loops for hanging are located.

I'm trying to figure out how I can attach the projector screen to the wall or the ceiling. I don't seem to be able to attach it to the wall because of the positions of the studs. I would only be able to attach to one of the studs with brackets or a screw.

I would prefer to hang the projector from the ceiling, but the joists run parallel to the wall, so the nearest one is 18" from the wall, which is much too far for where I'd like the screen to hang.


texts: Can buried gas pipe conduct flame between two structures?

texts:
If my detached garage has natural gas connection to the house via a buried black pipe and if the house got caught on fire, can that pipe, say 25' in length, conduct the flame to the garage so that it catches on fire with no other source of ignition?

I was thinking that a buried pipe should not be able to do that because fire requires air, which is not available inside a buried pipe.  Correct me if wrong.


texts: Load bearing capacity of 2x6's for diy lifting cage

texts:
I want to build a custom power rack to safely perform heavy barbell exercises in my home. Commercial racks are too tall for my basement.

Others have done this before: http://www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com/homemade-power-rack.html

One aspect I'm unsure about is how much space between holes in the upright posts I need to safely support the weight.

For those unfamiliar, a set of safety bars (1" solid steel bars) goes through the holes on each side. If you fail to complete a lift, you set the barbell on the safety bars and wriggle out from underneath.

500lbs would be a generous upper limit for the combined weight of the barbell and weight plates. It's fathomable that this weight may be dropped from let's say a foot above the safeties. Generally, I expect to be able to set the bar down gently, but that might not always be the case.

Placing the holes closer together allows for better placement of the safety bars and barbell holders. Several people will be using the rack, so I cannot simply place holes where they are best for just me.

I threw together a SketchUp model of what I'm planning. The holes will be 1 1/8" diameter (need to check actual diameter of some pipe to be sure). Currently, I have them spaced 3" on center. The holes are also be a bit off center, moved out towards the edges of the uprights, so that they are spaced far enough apart.

Can anyone help me to understand how I could calculate if this is structurally solid?

I understand wood is rated in compressive strength by psi. I'd be grabbing the best 2x6's I can find at a big box store, which looks like top choice hem-fir. I find some calculators, like this - https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/index.html. That shows 840lbs for a 2x6, but 3846lbs for two 2x6's (I will be gluing two 2x6's together for each upright).

I'm not totally sure how to calculate the surface area. Obviously it's 3" through the board, but with a round pipe in a round whole, would I use half the diameter of the hole (3"*1&1/16*π = 10 sq in), or less? What's the effective area in contact with the pipe to determine the psi applied to the uprights?

I also don't know how the holes in the board affect the compressive strength.. I would assume it lowered it, but when I search about it I don't see length/height of board taken into account.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here's the sketchup


texts:
Who makes this kitchen faucet handle (logo identification)?
It is broken and I can't seem to remove/uninstall the faucet. Does anyone recognize this logo or know how I might go about finding the answer myself?
I've done image searches and I can't find any helpful information.

Resampled logo:


texts: What's the name of a mortise lock that uses no key?

texts:
I need to buy a door lock that uses handles and that requires a pocket—the mortise—to be cut into the door.

Something like this one or like this one.

But one that uses no key nor any other locking mechanism. So I need something basic, for the door at my room - there is no need to lock it.

I need to search for this on the internet so I need to be able to search specifically for this kind of product, is there a particular name for this? It would improve my search results a lot. At this moment, all my searches return a gazillion of products that I don't need

Maybe it's "Door Lever"? Or "Door Leverset"? Searching for the last one seems to have better results, yet too many of them use a key.


texts: Don't bore/notch in middle third of a joist... span or member?

texts:
Suppose I have a continuous joist supported somewhere in the middle. For ease let's say it's a 24 foot continuous joist, and there's a bearer right in the middle at the 12 foot mark.

Here's a picture I found online.

I know I should not notch or bore in the middle 1/3 of the joist. Does a bearer make this joist two spans per this image?

Can I notch between 0'-4', 8'-16', and 20'-24'?

Or 0'-8' and 16'-24'?


texts: Can you lay subfloor on concrete before framing interior walls?

texts:
Our unfinished basement has a concrete floor and poured concrete walls.  It has stayed completely dry all year for a decade since the house was built.  I will be framing the exterior walls 1" from the concrete with 2" of closed-cell spray foam as insulation and moisture barrier.  I plan to insulate the floor with 1" polystyrene foam-board glued to the cement, then 3/4" pressure treated sleepers screwed to the foam, then 3/4" subfloor screwed to the sleepers, then hardwood or laminate flooring on top of that.

Must the interior walls be framed first and nailed directly to the concrete floor, with the foam and subfloor built around them?  Or can the foam, sleepers, and subfloor be put down first with the interior walls sitting on top of them?  The latter would obviously be far easier as the foam, subfloor, and sleepers would not need to be cut around a very large number of walls in a small space.  The difference could be a five day job becoming a five week job (I don't have a lot of free time to dedicate to this project each week).

I understand that nailing through the subfloor would not provide the same stability as nailing directly to concrete, but these are non load-bearing walls that will likely support little-to-no weight.  Are there any other disadvantages, or things I need to look out for or address?


texts:
How should I undo this connection? It doesn't seem to unscrew, though part of it will move down towards the boiler although this doesnt seem to make it disconnect (I havent tried forcing this though as I don't want it to break)

Its the mains cold water inlet to a small boiler by the way.

Many thanks]1


texts: I build a new cabinet that needs drawers. The front of face frame to the front of the back wall is 18.75".  I'm planning to build a 17" drawer to fit that space.  My problem is to determine what length of full extension drawer slides to purchase. Most slides are either 16" or 18".  Which ones should I purchase? Can the rear mounting bracket be extended?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: Is CD 12R 12 gage stranded wire suitable for use in an electric oven?

texts:
I have a spool of CD 12R 12 gage stranded wire, Standard Motor Products, spiffy spool.

Is this wire suitable to replace the wire from L2 to the controller in an electric oven?

The oven is the one in: Electric oven: Bake and Broil not Working  and  electric oven bake element gets warm but does not get hot.


texts:
When we had the inspection done on the house we purchased, the inspector told us the oven range (a gas range/oven combo that sits on the ground against the wall) needed to be mounted to the wall.

Neither of us had heard of this, and our realtor suggested we didn't ask for the sellers to do it due to the competitive market for buyers in our city.

I've been trying to research how to do this now that we'll be cooking a turkey in it this Thursday. However, I can't find any info out there on doing this. Do people even do this? How do you go about doing it? It does worry me that if it were to tip, it's hooked up to the gas line.

Thanks!


texts: How can I shorten a reciprocating saw blade?

texts:
This rather dated article recommends using a shortened reciprocating saw blade to punch through drywall.  I have an old blade (intended to be used to cut wood, as far as I can tell) that I'm happy to cut short for this purpose, but the page's recommendation of cutting through the blade with cable pliers is a non-starter.  Perhaps recip saw blades were thinner in the 80s.

I have a decent selection of tools in the house, but not anything particularly geared toward metalworking.  How can I cut through this blade to shorten it?  I do have a recip saw blade that appears to be intended for cutting through metal (it has an icon of what appears to be a girder on it, and is red) but I'm not sure if another blade was the target that they had in mind for it.


texts: Is it ok for electrical wires to run underneath a beam in a basement?

texts:
Question: Is it OK for electrical wires to run underneath main beam of prefab house to get from one side to the other?
The picture shows what has been done by an electrician before I bought the house, so I’m assuming it’s OK.
I just wanted to be sure, because I’m finishing the unfinished basement now and I’ll have all of my work inspected by the county or state. I want to do the same thing instead of having to drill through 10” of beam.
The current is in the storage/utility room and I would be only doing this in that same room. Everything else I’m running in that room would be running through the joists, it’s just getting from one side of the house to the other is my concern.


texts: How should I protect wooden trim that abuts a brick chimney from further water damage?

texts:
We are repairing and painting all of the wooden trim on our (new-to-us) 1930's home. We have a brick chimney on the gable end of the house, approximately 6 feet down from the ridge. The roof is a double-roof (ugh): there's a layer of asphalt shingles (in good condition) laid down on a raised platform over the original roof. Water appears to be dripping down from the flashing (visible in the photo) around the chimney and onto the crown-molding and fascia board (correct term?). I've removed the rotted wood from the end of the fascia board in the photo, and I was going to repair that damaged end with Minwax Wood Hardener and then Minwax Wood Filler.

The crown molding piece appears to be solid, but it needs to be reattached more securely which will reduce the width of the gap between the molding and the fascia board. I will then caulk along the underside of the molding to seal that gap between the molding and fascia board.

But what should I do along the brickwork/wood interface to protect the ends of these boards from further water damage? Extend the chimney flashing out and/or down somehow to the vinyl siding? Install a drip edge on top of the crown molding (essentially, between the two roof layers) for the six feet of roof between the chimney and the ridge? Do I also need to further protect/caulk where the vinyl siding meets the chimney for the rest of the way down to the ground (probably not, I think)?

Thanks for your suggestions!


texts: How to quickly fix botched latex paint area on exterior door?

texts:
I need some help here.  We recently primed and painted an exterior wood door.  The second coat of latex paint was still semi-wet and I accidentally touched an area of the door with my fingertips which left some unsightly dips.  We tried painting over that area again but it looks a bit rough. Here's a pic

We'd like to put in the door tomorrow but I'm not sure how to fix this quickly. Right now the area is "sticky" so it's too wet to sand down and too dry to smoothly re-paint over.  Any advice for how to recover here?

Just thinking out loud... could we scrape the goopy area?


texts: What can I do about high water pressure that is causing a leak?

texts:
One of our showers has an intermittent leak, and I've figured out that it happens when the hot water heater is on. There's no expansion tank on the cold supply side for our hot water tank, so I'm guessing that the increased pressure while the heater is on is causing the leak.

I picked up a cheap water pressure gauge and measured the cold water pressure at a slop sink in the basement at 100 psi. Presumably that gets even higher when the water heater is on.

I had been thinking that an expansion tank would solve this problem, but now it seems like the water pressure is just too high in general. Do I need something else? Should I just repair / replace the shower faucet and leave the pressure alone?

EDIT: There's definitely no pressure-reducing valve inside the house where water service enters. Our water meter is outside near the street, under a small manhole cover. Might the PRV be in there as well? I couldn't find an obvious way to get into it, perhaps I need a crowbar or something? Municipal water service was installed at this property relatively recently; prior to that it was on well water.

EDIT 2: I've measured the cold line as high as 170 psi while the hot water heater is on. So clearly this is way too high.

My meter is by the street, under this cover (gloves for scale):

Is it possible there's a PRV in there? I couldn't pry the lid off with a screwdriver. Do I need a special wrench for one of those fittings to get in there? Am I even supposed to open that thing?


texts: I want to install vinyl siding over my old siding which is soft in some places,  probably rotten (I dont know how to determine, you can see attached photo). But I've heard that it's not a good idea to install a new over existed rotten. But what if I cover old siding with waterproofed home wrap before I install new vinyl? I think there will be no moisture anymore and I shouldn't have any problems. Is it a good idea?


texts: Why would a new water heater's PRV leak when the PRV on the old heater never leaked?

texts: Old water heater was leaking at the inlet pipe. Installed a new heater and the PRV leaks a small amount about every other day. Why does the new one relieve when the old one never did?


texts: Can I connect one end of an in wall wire to an electrical plug?

texts:
I ran wire for a ceiling mounted projector to my utility room. I have a server rack in the room with a surge protector. I would like to wire the exposed end with a plug in order to connect the projector to the surge protection provided in the server rack, as I do not have whole house surge protection. Is there a reason this would not be acceptable?

Outlet <--> wire through ceiling <--> out in unfinished room <--> male electrical plug <--> surge protector

Thank you


texts: New GFCI to replace one that was in the subpanel of a hot tub

texts: I have a dedicated 50 amp 240 v circuit to a hot tub.  Had it over 15 yrs no problems.  Recently the GFCI that was in the sub panel would buzz and then trip or sometimes work just fine after resetting.  The GFCI was an old one that had the 240 v wires running through a hole in the back...these are not used anymore.  I bought a new one that goes into the main panel that feeds the sub panel.  It has a center white ground wire that goes to the main ground.  The circuit going to the hot tub has red, black, and white.  In the main panel the white wire is connected to the main ground bus.  When I connect the white from the new GFCI it trips the breaker.  Is that because I need to take the white wire from the hot tub and connect it directly to the center lug in the new GFCI circuit breaker instead of the bus and then the pigtail from the GFCI to the ground bus?  To me that makes sense and would stop the tripping.  Please advise as these new GFCI are a bit different than 20 years ago.


texts: Brass central heating elbow joint leaking at connection to plastic pipe

texts:
Since removing a radiator to decorate a room I've had a slow leak in the central heating. Luckily I've found where it is - directly below said radiator - I must have moved it about too much in the process. It's ground floor so the water isn't a big problem. Vertical copper radiator pipe joins to the brass elbow, which leaks where the plastic pipe joins it. See photo:

I would like to fix this properly so I don't have to worry about it after replacing the floor, ideally I'd like to do without draining the whole central heating system but will do if necessary to avoid turning ground floor into a swimming pool.

Does anyone have any advice for:

if it needs replacing or just tightening (there doesn't seem to be
anything to tighten - is it push fit?)
if it needs replacing what to replace with
how to do this with the least faff/flooding

I'm a novice, but confident to do things myself, based in UK, easy access to Screwfix, Wickes or B&Q.

Thanks all


texts:
The floor of the shower is a bunch of irregular stones with grout between them. After about 12-16 months in the house the grout started to come up. I suspect that I needed to have reapplied water proofing, and did not. So I went to Lowes and they said
- get unsanded grout
- mix it with water proofing as the liquid

then apply it as regular and it should last forever, i.e. would not need water proofing reapplied. So I scraped out the old grout, mixed per instructions, and applied. This stuff only lasted ~2 months before starting to come up.

What did I do wrong ? My best guess is that I should have used sanded grout instead of unsanded. Any other suggestions?


texts: I'm trying to remove painters tape from a vinyl tile gym floor that someone left on 'way' too long. This floor has a finish on it that is stripped and refinishied once a year. I don't want to damage the finish trying to get the rest of the tape off.


texts: What types of materials should I consider when designing a bench?

texts:
I am building a dividing half-wall/shelving unit to separate my living room from entrance door. I am planning to put a bench on the side closer to the door (so me and my guests can sit down while lacing shoes) and I am wondering about what kind of material should i use for this bench?

Approximate dimensions will be 3-4 feet length(or width), 16 inches deep and 17 inches from the floor.

I want to make sure that this bench can withstand big loads (some of my friends are big)
I was thinking about using 1 inch thick plywood sheet on top of 2 2x3s, but I am not too sure about it. I also don't want it to be too thick or have some posts in the middle, because I want to be able to put shoes under it.

Can someone recommend what materials should I use and possible construction of this bench (or point in right direction) ?


texts: Is this gap at the base of my wall allowing water to enter?

texts:
My apartment is at the ground floor of a 4-floor building. Between the walls of the building and the ground, there is empty space:

It is sufficiently wide to insert a palm, and from the outside, it seems quite deep.

I did not think that it is problematic, but in the last winter, there was humidity and mould on the inner walls near the floor, and I thought that maybe the cause is that rain-water go below the building, and then sift up into the walls.

What can I about this?


texts: Need help choosing t&p replacement valve

texts:
I tried testing the t&p valve on my water heater, and after it kept leaked very badly, I had to shut off the water supply.

I am trying to find a replacement valve, but I don't know how to decipher this.

I'm not sure if this one will work - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.34-inch-t-p-relief-valve-extended-shank.1000123781.html

I'm in Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, and trying to find something locally asap.  Thanks.


texts: Is fine stranded wire ok for main supply line?

texts:
I’m changing the load panel in a mobile home with additions to gain additional circuits.

Outside a few feet from home is the service pole with meter and a 100 amp disconnect.

I became concerned about the entrance wire because it is a fine stranded wire like automotive battery cables or like welding equipment wiring. The picture shows the work in progress and it is complete now but I wonder if this type wire is anything to be concerned about especially since I will be adding to the load draw with a central heat pump.

In the red square you can sort of see the fine strands that the entrance wire has. I can’t get better pictures until I return to this vacation home.

To clarify I was expecting the wire to be stranded like this

But what I have is very similar to this

Edit:
Returned and pulled old wire out. It was in a heavy rubber jacket that had writing on it indicating it was mobile home wire like one uses for a camper at at campground.
It stated it was for 50 amps.

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Replaced with #1 copper wire on hots and neutral and #3 copper on ground.