texts: Winterizing exterior water lines from well

texts:
I would like to extend the use of my water system into the winter months. Currently I shut off the water in late October and don’t reopen till early May. My well is 100 yds from my cabin. Water is drawn across a footbridge and the pipes are exposed, not buried, subject to freezing. Pressure tank is in an unheated shed approx 20 yds from the well and 80 yards from my cabin. Cabin is situated on a small island accessible via the footbridge. What I would like to do is winterize the current system without having to dig up existing water line run. What I have in mind is:

Build an insulated pump house on the camp side of the footbridge attached to an existing shed that
currently has electricity and hosts the breaker switch for the pressure tank.
Move the pressure tank to the new pump house and run new water lines to the camp. Since the run between the new pump house and the camp will be about 10 yds I thought I might be able to use self regulating heat cable for in and out water runs to the camp.
Now for the big question. Would it be possible to rig a compressor between the pressure tank and run to the well to blow out the line after the tank has filled? Purging it of all water to prevent freeze up? Or is there another way to accomplish this.

All piping inside has been replaced with pex. Have both propane and a heat pump for interior heating. The outside 4" drain to the septic is covered by decking but I would most likely wrap with the self regulating heat cable as well.


texts: Does my house need structural enhancement?

texts:
I live in an area with clay soils, so the homes here move quite a bit leading to typical cracking in drywall around door and window frames. My home seems particularly bad, ex this large crack in my living room:

A structural engineer said the foundation looks fine. Two contractors suggested two very different things, one wants to add helical piers under the entire home (which would be super expensive) the other suggested adding adjustable posts under the home.

I'm more wondering if there is any degree of confidence in any contractor/solution or if everyone is just guessing?


texts: What is the best sander to use on oak stair treads?

texts:
I'm about to start a stair refinishing project.  The stairs are 100 years old, red oak.  My plan is to stain treads and paint risers..

Question - what is the best sander to use on the treads?  Is an orbital (palm) sander good enough?  I want to minimize any swirl marks.  Any advice on grit level would be appreciated as well.

Thanks!


texts: I have a steep tree and grass covered back yard where rain water flows down during storms. This exits through the garage but is causing soil erosion.  I too would like to know what sort of professional to consult about a diy drainage plan.


texts: Why did my radiator stop heating after turning it down for a while?

texts:
I turned down my radiator the other day & now there is no heat in it at all. I've bled it with no success. The intake pipe at the other end of the radiator is warm but the radiator itself is not.

Why is this happening and how do I fix it?


texts:
We recently bought a 100 year old house that stood uninhabited for 18 months prior to our move. Everything had been properly winterized for the cold winter months (Temperatures can reach -40 C) and the water was turned on and seemed to be working properly for about 3 weeks. Then we ran into some issues. The house is two storeys with two full baths on each level stacked on top of one another. The first floor toilet had a minor leak that seemed to correct itself within a day and hasn't been an issue since. The second story toilet began to leak about a week later due to the tank overfilling and leaking through the flush handle. We remedied this problem quite easily and the toilet hasn't leaked since. Now here comes the real issue.

Shortly after the second toilet leak, we woke up early one morning to discover water covering the floor of the first floor bathroom. It was coming from the ceiling at a steady drip rate, but nothing alarming. We shut the water off to the entire house and the dripping stopped after about 12 hours. During the following week we ended up peeling back the plastered layer on the ceiling to discover that it is made of cement board (??) and the water seems to just seep through when the water is on. We can access the shower pipes on the second floor through a removable panel in the wall, but there is no water to be seen. I guess I'm just trying to see if anyone has had experience with a similar issue, any suggestions as to how it can be diagnosed/fixed, and whether or not I'm going to have to take a second mortgage out to fix the issue.

I should mention that we did call a plumber the same day the ceiling leak was discovered. He set up an appointment, but then called back and told us that if the leak was related to a burst pipe, the amount of water leaking would be much more substantial and it wouldn't continue to leak after the water was turned off (which it did initially for about 12 hours). He informed us it was probably water that had pooled underneath the upstairs toilet and was now seeping through the cement board. We now know that the leak will start and stop in relation to the water being turned on and off, but I think the issue is that the leak isn't a dramatic one when the water is left on. It just kind of... drips through. Please help!


texts:
I am a newbie to tackling electrical projects and need some help.  Thanks in advance!

I am trying to install a Defiant digital timer for my garage flood light.  The garage light switch is just inside my front door.  It is a controlled by the leftmost switch in a 3-gang switch.

Is my proposed plan for wiring the timer okay?  Here it is:

Tie the ground from the new timer into the red wire nut that holds the existing set of bare copper wires.
Tie the white neutral from the timer into the red wire nut that holds the existing set of white neutral wires.
Tie the blue load wire from the new timer into the red wire nut that goes to the garage light.
Tie the black line wire from the new timer into the red wire nut that goes to the circuit breaker.
Tie the existing black load wire for switch 2 into the red wire nut that holds the existing goes to the circuit breaker.  Formerly, it was connected to switch 1.

Please note that I could not do line hops with my diagram tool.  All wires are connected end-to-end at lines, switches, wire-nuts or to the load.


texts: How can I pick a smoke detector that only detects smoke and not heat?

texts:
Currently, my home's smoke detector is situated right outside our bathroom in the hall. Whenever someone takes a hot shower (usually me), the steam escaping the bathroom trips the detector, presumably because of heat.
I would like to replace this detector, but I want to be sure that what I replace it with is only detecting the presence of smoke. Not heat.
I was looking at this model at Lowes yesterday, but wasn't clear if it was focused upon just smoke or if it would also trip due to smoke. The manufacturer's text includes, "Photoelectric sensor detects smoke while minimizing false alarms."
Does this mean that the detector will only focus upon smoke or will it also trigger due to heat?


texts: Does a heat pump create condensate during winter?

texts: I have a large unit attic mounted. The ac drain line produces a lot of water during the hot humid summer.  The water gets on top of a concrete walkway. I’m concerned that if condensate is produced during cold winter months the walk way may get icy. Do heat pumps produce significant condensate when heating the house or is that strictly a function of a/c?


texts: Installing a drainable waterline to garage, draining into sump for winter months

texts:
So, My utility room shares a common wall with my unheated garage. I've been toying around with the idea of running some pex out there to have a spigot in my garage. I'm wondering if I need to attach a drainage valve* to let the line drain off during the winter (Except when in use). The easiest way to handle this water would be to put a drain valve in the line, with the drainage line leading to the sump pit that is almost directly below the manifold.

Based on the fact that both the sump and water heater are sitting at a slightly lower level than the rest of the floor, so the heater will drain off into the sump if it starts leaking, I'm going to guess the sump is equipped to handle a sudden influx of water, probably more than would be in the approximately 5 ft of pex leading to the garage.

*I'm thinking of using a valve like this, if it exists, while I'm assuming it does. If such a valve exists, I'd love to know it's name

Open
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Water Flow -- >                          --- To Garage --->
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          |  To  |
                          | Sump |
                          |      |

Closed
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- Water Flow (blocked)- >|      <-- Line to garage drains back into sump -
---------------------------      ------------------------------------------
                          |  ||  |
                          |  ||  |
                          |  VV  |


texts: How can I dehumidify the bathroom while I shower, without using the ceiling fan?

texts:
My grandparents live in a condo in Toronto. Whenever they shower, they open the bathroom door fully, but this still fails to remove most of the steam. They must turn on their ceiling vent fan.

If the weather is cold, does turning on the ceiling fan convey cold air to the bathroom?

They always feel cold incoming air  while showering in the winter, whenever they turn it on. But they've never felt  it  whenever the fan's off.

Please see this question's title overhead.

They'd loathe to buy a dehumidifier just for this goal. Besides, I don't think a dehumidifier can safely be placed inside a bathroom?


texts: What could cause a wet soil / moisture smell on concrete slab

texts:
I have a wet soil smell coming from the living room concrete slab.
I had to remove all the tile in the leaving room.
A remediation company came, they removed the drywall and dehumidified the place, without any success. We still smell the same things when it’s cold outside.
There is no trace of water on the concrete whatsoever.
The living room is on the north-east side of the house.
Thanks


texts: Old kitchen range only has 3-wires, how to wire correctly to 4 wire circuit

texts:
So I have an old range that I'll probably replace soon, so I decided to inspect the wiring box under the counter.
I wanted to make sure everything is safe when I wire the new range to the dedicated range 220V 4-wire (red, black, white, and bare Cu/ground) circuit. However, when I opened the junction box I noticed the following:

the range only has 3 wires: red,black, green.
the red wire nut splice looked burned, the plastic nut melted and was almost exposed
the neutral wire from the circuit was not connected at all any of the range's 3 wires
The range's green wire was connected to ground. This is wrong right?

I cut and cleaned the burned wire/nuts, and spliced it as such:

So question: Is this wiring correct? I thought that in 3-wire ranges there's no ground, and the range's green wire was understood to be neutral..? And range's green should've been connected to the circuits white neutral?
What's the correct wiring here? range green => neutral OR range green => neutral+ground ?
Thanks in advance.
UPDATE: So it's a very simple cooktop range (no oven), 4 coils, no digital clock, analog knob controls. The dedicated circuit powering it seems to be at least #10 gauge NM 3-wire + bare ground cable, and it's on a double 50A breaker.
UPDATE2: Here's the label for the cooktop:


texts: AC Condensate not draining from newish HVAC

texts: A few years ago I replaced my entire HVAC system with one similar size to my old one. I used a local contractor that I've had a long relationship with, who I've continued a maintenance contract with. For quite a while, I had a vague feeling that condensate wasn't coming out the pipe near my backdoor that had released quite a bit of water with the previous unit. This year's it's been more humid than ever, and I made a point to check on the drain pipe at multiple times you would expect condensate - and nothing. I asked the technician about it during my last check under the contract and he said he poured water in the pipe and it comes out so the drain is fine; and when I pressed him about where the moisture was going, he replied that the blower is probably drying up all the moisture. Does this make sense? I've had loads of water issues in my crawl space that I've been working hard to address and don't want to add to it with the AC. Should I call the management for another look, or hire another contractor to check it out?


texts: Readings of 120V coming to the electrical outlet but not powering anything

texts: I have readings of 120V coming to the electrical outlet but not powering anything, I have several outlets with this issue. The breaker box is good and breakers are good. Several outlets and a closet light are not working and the outlets that aren’t working are in several rooms. I now used a voltage meter and it shows 120 volts.


texts: Lift existing roof frame to replace top logs in log home

texts:
We have a log house with a 12/12 pitch roof. This summer we're planning to take off all the old asbestos tiles and leave the existing roundwood framing and put in new tiles of some kind, or metal roofing.

The top logs the roof frame attaches to has severe rot so we want to put in completely new logs. What I want to know is how do we go about lifting the roof safely? Build some sort of scaffolding perhaps and then use multiple jacks? Is this sort of thing really dangerous to do without professional help?

I've made a basic to scale 3d model of the house to show the basic structure of it all.

The orange piece running horizontal along the gutter of the roof is not there currently. I was thinking to attach some lumber to the existing roof frame like this so that when jacks are connected (those are represented by the grey vertical poles) it would all keep together

Lifted..

Any tips on the best way to approach this would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Is it necessary to replace a hot tub pump if its seal has a leak?

texts:
I have a hot tub that is leaking from the pump seal (this was diagnosed by a hot tub tech).  They gave me a quote for replacing the pump, which unfortunately is going to require some re-plumbing of the tub since it is an older tub and they apparently don't make/use this specific pump anymore.

However, after a bit of googling it seems that it would be more practical to just replace the pump seal itself rather than the entire pump.  Is there some other reason for why I might have to replace the entire pump in this situation?


texts: Identifying the hot and neutral wires of an antique lamp

texts:
I'm trying to rewire a couple of identical antique lamps. Unfortunately, I don't have a clear idea of which wire is which. The lamp has been rewired in the past, but it seems it was a long time ago.
There are two wires, which are copper with a clear, yellow-ish rubber insulation. They're exactly the same except for one difference: One wire has a rounded side, while the other is squarish. There is no ridging, and there is no way for me (an amateur) to tell the difference. They have absolutely no other markings aside from what I've described above.
Any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I've managed to identify which wire is which.


texts: Is there a reason NOT to use a garden hose to hook up two faucets?

texts:
I have a faucet below my deck that is connected to a faucet that is screwed into the railing. They are connected via a 1/2" copper pipe which burst this winter in multiple locations. The simplest fix for me would be to just run some garden hose between the two faucets and bypass the pipe altogether. Is there a reason not to do that?

I could run copper or pex again, but it just feels like too much work at this point.


texts: Can GFCI trip by inductive kick & capacitive coupling?

texts:
Update. The GFCI can also trip when the power supply was put on the load side instead of the input. Here the input is open. So it's not current inbalance in the sense coil, please explain how can inductive kick can trip it when ac supply is put in the load side.

Here is a GFCI youtube video that continuously trips when you use water shaded pole motor. It doesn't trip on other appliance, The motor was surrounded by plastic, glass surface and glove hands so there is no way current can escape. Can the tripping be caused by inductive kick from motor inducing capacitive coupling inside the circuit? How do you refute this theory?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy5K6S__vE0


texts:
Recently I decided to re-roof my patio because it has been leaking in several places. That's when I noticed that my patio had very little rain run-off.

My patio is 24' wide by 17' deep. The roof starts at a height of 101 1/2" and runs to a low of 95".

Before I re-roof, I'd like to know if this is enough run-off.

We live in Sacramento, California and we generally get only a handful of heavy downpours per year.


texts:
I have an external faucet with a 1" (male) pipe thread. If I attach a regular hose pipe to it then (as you would expect) it leaks at that point. I would have thought that it would be easy to find a 1" pipe thread to hose thread adapter but I have been unable to do so.

Do such adapters exist? If not, what is the easiest way to connect a hose to a pipe thread faucet?


texts: Connect all 3 switches in a 3 gang to be controlled by a single switch?

texts: My kitchen has three light switches (1 main light, 2 under cabinet lights), all in a single box (3 gang). I want to connect them together so that a single switch turns them all on/off at once. Can I wire them as such easily?


texts: How do I remove a Kwikset deadbolt with no screws on the inside plate?

texts:
My exterior door deadbolt has gotten stuck - it'll open with the lever but not the key. By spraying WD-40 inside the lock, I've been able to get it to work but it's very stiff. I'd like to remove the lock and inspect the inside, either to clean/lube it or replace it. But I can't figure out how to remove the lock; there's no obvious way to do this. (I'm used to seeing two screws on the inside of the deadbolt, usually under the lever arms when it's horizontal.)

How do I remove this? I can loosen the cover plate on the inside but it doesn't do anything other than rotate a few degrees.


texts: Is it OK for bushes to touch the house and fence?

texts: I have a house in the Seattle area.  A realtor told me to trim all the bushes so that they don't touch the house and wood fences before putting it for sale.  Is that really necessary?  What's the harm?


texts: Removing years old grout from drywall in kitchen

texts: I'm about to get new cabinets and countertops for my kitchen. I've removed the old cabinets and countertops, but unfortunately the previous owners had a nasty tile countertop and it looks like grout made its way to the wall. My question is, do I just cut the drywall out and replace the section, or is there a smarter way to remove this grout? Note: when the new countertops are put in, this grout would be visible.


texts:
I just built a covered porch. It extends 8+ feet from the house.  The porch roof extends the house roof and one gutter from the house now extends across the porch roof -- ending well away from the foundations. I once saw a diagram of a gutter that ended at the roof-level with no downspout.  It had some kind of end cap that broke up the water from a gushing stream that would gouge a trough in the lawn to a spray that disperses harmlessly.  Can anyone give me more information on what this kind of end cap/dispersal system is called and where I can find them?

Way back they used to use gargoyles for this. I am looking for a less "decorative," more functional version.


texts: I modified a nail-in electrical box to use screws instead of nails. Is there some code that prevents that?

texts:
Ever since I dove into the electrical side of things with my project, I've encountered a bunch of code restrictions.  One thing that wouldn't surprise me if it was a violation of code is what I've done here:

I did this because I have to install five of these things and don't want to disturb my neighbors.  To get the screw to fit without breaking the tabs, I drilled through them with a 3/16" bit.  The screw goes through with just enough snugness to hold on to the plastic with the threads, but not too snug that it bends or breaks the tabs.  I did a test install on a stud and it holds really tight.

I did this because I couldn't find any screw-in receptacles at the hardware store that would allow me to bring the face of the box out 1 1/4" inches from the stud so that it would be flush against a double layer of 5/8" drywall.

Update: Crap.  This is not going to work.  I need to bring it out too far from the stud.  When I go to install the drywall, the drywall is going to run into the mounting assembly.  I need a box with the assembly in the back.  I won't delete this question, though, in case it will help someone else who is not trying to add one million layers of drywall.


texts: Using a flap sand disc to remove the finish from a closet door

texts:
This is related to something that I am working on, described here:
How should I refinish vintage wooden closet doors?

Is it possible to remove the existing finish with a flap sand disk like  the one below ?

I have tried my chance with a sander but no luck. I am afraid to test it with the belt sander.

Q: Is there a version of the below disk that can be attached to a drill ?


texts: Water supply line size 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch?

texts:
I am researching plumbing for moving a laundry sink. It seems the all the supply pipes (bathroom sink, kitchen sink, toilet) from the wall are 1/2" pipes. Looking at homedepot's site, the most common valve is 1/2" to 3/8". And the most common faucet supply line is the opposite 3/8" to 1/2".

Wouldn't the 3/8" size becomes the bottleneck? Why not 1/2" all the way?


texts: How can I access the lint duct assembly of a Maytag Centennial dryer?

texts:
We have a Maytag Centennial dryer (Model # MGDC700VW0) that has had its lint filter neglected too many times in-between runs.  When the lint filter is over-full, pulling it out actually lets lint spill into the lint duct assembly (bulkhead part #45 at the bottom of this diagram) and accumulate there.  It's only year old, but at this point, the dryer is taking too long to dry, and I'm attacking this as the first culprit.  (I'll also be cleaning out the short vent duct, too)

The old dryer we had could have the top pop up, revealing a couple set screws that held on the front.  Not this unit :-(  ...I've spent about 2 hours (and one blood-blister) trying to get into it.

Does anyone have any ideas besides an acetylene torch?  :-)


texts:
Is there anything that can be done to mitigate the effects of a floor humidifer on ice formation gumming up various systems in the house?  I have learned that even RO water is not pure enough to prevent our AC system from freezing up (unit close to air intake duct, HEPA filter, etc.) so am switching to distilled water.
But I'm also concerned about how I can mitigate the formation of ice in our refrigerator.  We have already had a repair person come out due to the fridge side not cooling and the ice maker not working, and after about half an hour of taking things apart (it's not a cheap unit!) pulled out a huge chunk of ice from the internal ducts.  At the time I didn't associate the possibility of this ice formation with running a humidifier but now I'm starting to suspect a connection.  However, unlike the AC where the easy fix is to switch to distilled water, the fridge doesn't have a filter that can clog or simply be replaced.  How I can mitigate ice buildup when a humidifier is pumping water into the air 24/7?
Not running the humidifier is not a good option either, as there are allergy sufferers in the house and it struggles to even maintain 40% RH in the summer.


texts: Should I think about insulating a cheap conservatory? if so how do I do it?

texts:
I made an offer on a house today that had a cheap upvc conservitory on the back on the house.

The conservatory had a cheap plastic sloping roof on that leaked a little, the walls are very thin, and only the south facing wall had any windows. (As you would expect it was pretty darn cold in there)

Can people think of some ways I can improve this room so that it's insulated well? I'd like to spend no more than £1k but I have no idea how realistic this is. I'd like to use the room assuming I buy the property as a tv room.

I'm pretty certain I'd need to replace the roof with something else. Any advice on this or the walls will be very much appreciated and help me decide whether I want to go ahead with the purchase.


texts:
Several days ago, GFCI receptacle in kitchen blew while Windex'ing ants, because they were coming out of the prong holes. My middle name is not Darwin, needless to say. 20-40 second period of rapid clicking, followed by a pop sound, followed by a puff of smoke, but no odors of burnt anything. Removed cover plate, all looked okay. Not sure what else is on that circuit. Haven't plugged in anything. All other outlets and loads working 100% correctly (which is odd if something else is on that circuit).

If that GFCI were the only load/receptacle on that circuit (granted that is unlikely), how urgent, if at all, is replacement?

Edit from OP:

I plugged a floor lamp into the GFCI. The outlet works. I found the controlling circuit breaker. No other kitchen services are on that circuit. The circuit appears to be dedicated to that one outlet, however, ts just a normal wall outlet about 8" above the counter, under the upper cabinets. The microwave is above the range and is on a different circuit.

I'll still DIY replace the outlet, but my take at this point is the the GFCI worked as designed (clicking noise), and that the puff of smoke was not smoke, but shorting drop of windex vaporizing away, which leads me to conclude, in short, that there was/is no urgency and that replacing the GFCI is highly likely to be overkill.


texts:
I'm in the process of installing fixtures for a shower and realized yesterday that I had made a mistake and needed to expand the opening around the single control valve. It's a Moen with an insertable cartridge.

I removed some tile with a reciprocating saw and drill and am sure I didn't hit the valve at all.

However, now today I attempted to turn the water back on and—while in the off position—the valve now drips fairly steadily.

Did I likely damage the valve in the process of removing tile? Possibly through the vibrations of the saw/drill?
What steps can/should I take to repair this? The surrounding plumbing is in perfect condition, the valve is just leaky.

Thank you!


texts: How to remove surface mold on shower walls and ceilings?

texts:
I'll be doing a small bathroom remodel on a VERY old house which mainly includes installing bathroom fan and a full paint job as the main tasks.  On first walk through, I noticed that the house has visible black mold on the plaster walls and ceiling (I'm assuming this is plaster too...) inside of the combination bath/shower.

Along with the visible mold, the paint on those surfaces is deteriorating and badly peeling (which is the original reason I was called for painting).

I explained to the homeowner that since the original bathroom had no exhaust fan or proper venting, this was the perfect condition for moisture to build and mold to grow, so we added bathroom fan as a requirement.  I said I would research ways to remove the mold and properly prepare the surfaces before painting.

I am thinking:

Physically scrape away all peeling paint, and dispose.
Pre-spray all areas with vinager, and let set for 1 hour.
Deep scrub all areas w/ Borax or TPS.
Fully DRY for 24 hours.
Prime with KILZ.
Paint.

Any feedback on this plan?  Also -- anything special I need to do since the walls are PLASTER and not regular drywall?


texts: I'm in the process of enclosing my garage.  The bottom foot of one of my garage walls is a slab step.  Under the drywall on the top part is a one inch thick layer of rigid foam.  I need to cover up the bottom piece with drywall, but I'm unsure how to hang it over concrete and still be up to code.  I'm thinking of attaching 1 x 2 furring strips and hanging the drywall on those.  Is this the right solution?  Are there any moisture/insulation concerns with that method in Florida?


texts:
Bought my Mum a Dimplex Panel Heater for Christmas.

My plan was to plug it into the single socket beside where I am mounting it however it did not come with a plug and look like it should be wired into a fused unit.

Can I just stick a 13A plug on it and use existing socket? Its only 0.5KWH.


texts: How can I repair a rusting dishwasher tray?

texts:
See the below image. Do I need to replace the entire tray, or is there some kind of fix I could do to the corroding area on the tray?

If I need to replace the entire tray, is this something that has a degree of standardization?


texts: Can I attach a extract fan on a portable a/c unit exhaust hose?

texts: I have a window a little far(+-5 meters) from the room i wish to add an portable a/c. Is it possible to use an extractor fan to help pull the exhausted air from the portable a/c?


texts: Will this particular breaker box allow ground wire to connect at neutral?

texts:
House is ran with EMT.. I have two dedicated circuits coming in from outside the house for a swimming pool, with a dedicated ground to the main breaker box.

I want to connect to far right bottom neutral bar, to stay as far away from lugs from main feed as I can. I just want to make sure this specific box allows that.


texts: Is caulk a good temporary fix for a gash in fascia board?

texts:
I was helping a friend with her house, and it turns out there is a pretty sizable gash in her fascia board right above where the gutter is nailed on.  It's oval-ish, about 6 to 8 inches wide by 2 to 4 inches high, roughly.  It is apparent that it is related to water damage.

They want to caulk it, but I think it's something that should get replaced immediately. Is caulk an OK solution for a  temporarily fix?

What is the proper procedure for fixing the fascia board?


texts: I've decided to run a new 60 amp sub panel in my garage using 6/3 NMB. Can I run it 35' through 1" pvc conduit from main panel to sub panel without stripping off the outer sheathing?


texts: How complicated is it to convert a hinged two door closet to a sliding doors?

texts:
As you can see in the picture, we have a massive two door hallway closet. The door is very obstructive in that location and it would be very convenient to have sliding doors.

What is involved in the conversion process to a sliding door?
Can the existing doors be repurposed into sliding doors?

2nd picture can be used as a point of reference for the construction of the frame.


texts: Is it okay that I turned on my new fridge immediately after delivery?

texts:
I turned on my new fridge/freezer immediately after delivery without thinking about it. Just realised, now 3 hours later, and went downstairs. It felt cold but I could hear "liquidy" noises. Have I screwed it? I was under the impression that it would be transported "upright" because that's what it says on the box.

Any advice/comments? I have just turned it off out of paranoia.


texts: Do water lines that contain lead need to be replaced if it doesn't flow out of a valve that I normally drink out of?

texts:
A plumber had came to my house to sweat pipes to install a water valve which controlled water going to the garden spigot.  Upstream to the valve is a t-joint.  The other output to the t-joint went to the kitchen faucet.  Now, he suggested to me that if the water line to the garden spigot on the output end of the t-joint contained lead solder or lead pipes, it would not contaminate the flow of water going to the kitchen.  Instead, all of the water-contaminated lead will be used to water the grass.

Is this true??


texts: Add new light and switch from existing lighting circuit

texts:
There are a lot of questions about this topic, but I'm feeling a little dense and want to make sure I do this correctly. I have a small office in my basement. Power runs from the breaker box to the switch, then from the switch to the light. The light is the only thing on the circuit right now. I want to add a new light and switch, where the new switch will be 10' away or so on another wall outside of the office. Everything is open except for the existing light, but I do have access to the existing switch.

Can I run a cable from my existing switch to the new one? What would the wiring diagram look like for that?


texts: Toilet bowl overfills before flushing, then stays drained

texts: Toilet bowl is filling almost all the way up when flushed, then flushes fast and stays almost empty. I put dawn in it and poured hot water into it. I read to fill it up with hot water to the rim and then flush. Before pouring all the water in, it flushed on its own. I poured more hot water in and it did it again. All are fast flushes. The refill stage still leaves the bowl almost empty.


texts: I took lever handle off, cap on valve body, sprayed some wd 40 on the swivel top and bottom, still cannot get it to swivel, or pull off.  Any other tricks? using heat froh heat gun?


texts:
I replaced a switched outlet together with a switch, but the outlet that is supposed to be controlled by the switch stopped working. I was trying to be careful to attach all the wires to the same connectors, but I must have messed something up. Could you please take a look at the pictures below to guess what I did wrong?

Switch:

Outlet (tab is broken):

With this set up, I have both, lower and upper, outlets permanently on and none of them is controlled by the switch. What did I do wrong?


texts: Add-A-Wire - COMMON / C Wire to a 3 Wire Thermostat

texts: I am battling a Nest and losing at every turn. I have a 2 zone system and was able to install a Nest on the 1st floor by repurposing a wire as a COMMON wire. Unfortunately, the 2nd floor only has 3 wires (POWER - RC/RH; Y - HEAT; W = A/C) and it is on the other side of the house relative to the zone controller in the basement. Instead of running a 24V COMMON / C wire from the basement to the master bedroom on the 2nd floor, can I use an "add-a-wire" product such as Venstar (https://venstar.com/thermostats/accessories/add-a-wire/). I searched a bit and reading it only works with 4 wire applications. I have an outlet right below it so there must be something I can do without running lines through the wall from the basement.


texts: New sink installation: garbage disposal sits lower and p-trap no longer at the right height for the drain

texts:
I'm completely new with basic plumbing, but last ngiht after my new sink went in I tried reattaching the garbage disposal and new faucet. It wasn't too bad but the disposal sits a little lower than before so the p-trap no longer connects to the drain. See the image:

How do I go about attaching these parts?


texts: Caulk/Putty around Interior Timber Frame Window Gaps

texts:
I am in the process of painting my timber frame windows and when cleaning and sanding down I have noticed that there is a small gap between the window pane and timber frame on the interior (the stuff which was in the gap has come away etc. when prepping). I am wondering what I can use to fill the gap and then paint over it to give it a nice finish (the gap looks pretty ugly!).

Here's a picture of the gap.

I'm aware of window putty and decorators caulk but do not want to use the wrong thing and create more work for myself! Based in the UK if that helps with product recommendations.


texts:
After we poured some concrete outside of our east wall, we noticed some cracks along the foundation wall. I guess due to the weight of the new foundation, the foundation wall crumbled. One of the cracks made its way to a window well. The horizontal crack is about 4 ft above the concrete.

I talked to a couple of contractors. One of them recommended carbon fiber fabric, which looks like band aids, and another one recommended steel beam foundation reinforcement. I read some negatives about steel beam foundation reinforcement. Due to the cost of anchors or piering, I have to rule them out.

The house is located in Denver, CO. which has a dry climate. It can get extremely cold. I also had some issues with rain water making its way to my basement. I hired a company to install a french drain inside to address the water problem. I also want to address this wall issue before it is too late.

I am leaning towards band aids, but I am not 100% sure. Does anybody have any experience with this application? If so, what was the end result? We have quotes from a couple of contractors.

Edit: This picture shows the outside on the other side of the foundation wall.
Notice the window well on the lower left, which is on the other side of this crack.


texts: How should I connect my replacement 3-way switches?

texts:
I'm trying to replace upstairs/downstairs lighted Leviton Decora 3-way switches that control one light upstairs with GE Z-Wave On/Off 3-Way Light Switches (from the kit version, 45638). The problem is there's quite a lot of extra wires, and as I'm a new owner to this house I'm still trying to figure out how the previous owners wired everything. Many of the outlets/switches I've replaced have been mickey moused into working, some pretty dangerous.

So getting to the problem at hand... there are more wires in the upstairs box than there are in the downstairs one. Reading up on typical 3-way switch replacements, this configuration doesn't seem to be a normal, as far as I can tell. It has a Common (Black) and two travelers (Red & White), but it also has two sets of capped off wires (2x Black and 2x White) which I'm not sure where they go. The downstairs box has a Common (Black), and two Travelers (Red & White) Only. I'm leaving out Ground wires as everything has a ground, so that's not the issue.

For ease of explaining: here's a diagram of the up/downstairs wiring as it is currently with the Leviton Decora 3-way switches and then on the bottom what the GE 3-way On/Off Light Switch side-screw configurations look like. All the side-screws have been exaggerated so you can see the colors of the screws.

So it comes down to:

Will the Z-Wave switches even be compatible?
If so, which wires should be connected to which screws on the Z-Wave switches?


texts: Where should I put the transitioning from tile to laminate with open floor plan?

texts: I have an open floor plan in my house. The house is about 25 years old and the same white glossy tile was used in the living room, dining room and large kitchen. The tile looks decent in the living room and dining room. The kitchen tile looks awful. the grout was painted with regular paint by the previous owner and it looks terrible and is impossible to keep clean. I would like to replace the kitchen only with a good laminate. My problem is where to transition from kitchen. I am not sure where the cut off should be and will it look ok. can I send some pictures? I would like it to look like it has always been this way.


texts:
I'm building a short stud wall across an alcove, to give us a built in wardrobe. I'm intending to frame the wall with the timber laid out on the ground then to lift the frame into place and secure to the floor and ceiling, with noggins in each.

There is existing original cornice, which we want to keep in the room and continue across the new wall, with as seamless joints as we can reasonably achieve. I have quotes for a company to replicate and make a run of the plaster cornice, so we can get new cornice to do that which matches the existing.

This is the top of the alcove in question:

My question is whether I can do the job without damaging the existing plaster, or whether that makes it significantly harder to do. I'm imagining a frame with two large inverted corners at the top, to avoid cutting the cornice, but still frame the wall on the floor and lift it in to position.

This is the kind of shape frame I mean:

Are there any major downsides to this approach? I don't want to compromise the job I'm doing so if I have to cut the existing cornice rather than build around it, I will do that, but if possible I'd rather not damage the original cornice.


texts: Connect neutrals together in 3-gang box (load side) with 3x 3-way switches?

texts:
I have 2x 3-gang boxes, each with 3x 3-way switches in each box.  All are on the same 15A breaker.

I have wired them together and I'm just connecting the switches now.  I have:

                 --------              ---------
BREAKER --14/2-- |3x-3WAY| --3x14/3-- |3x 3-WAY| ---3x14/2-- LIGHTS
                 ---------             ---------

The 3-gang boxes are connected with 3 runs of 14/3 cable.

My question is: should I splice the neutrals together (and the grounds) at the second 3-gang box (load side)?  It seems like it doesn't matter, since they could just as well be going to 3x 1-gang boxes on the load side in which case they would NOT be connected.

To clarify - I'm not asking if I should connect neutral to ground (I know I shouldn't do that).  I'm asking if I should connect all the neutrals together and pigtail off that or just treat each switch independently on the load side.

Is there a standard way to do it?


texts: I have a friend who wants to run a heater  in his van during the winter (MO).  Heater will be on continuously.  Outdoor outlet (not GFCI)...what type of electrical system should I set up? Or NOT...


texts:
I just installed a wood stove in the addition I built for my trailer. My father-in-law insisted on going and buying me an 8 inch thimble for my stove pipe to run through the wall. My stove pipe is only 6 inch diameter so I have a two inch Gap all around it that I can see straight outside. It lets a lot of heat out and cold in.

What can I fill this gap with that will not burn my house down?


texts: Low Voltage wiring and Rough-In Inspection

texts:
Does anyone have experience, guidance, tips on what is required for LV wiring at rough-in inspection?

I have run a number of speaker wires, coax, ethernet (CL2/CL3) but they do not all terminate in a LV Box rather I just have them dangling. This is because some wires will support in-wall speakers, in-ceiling speakers which I want installed in the middle of the studs and I have an idea on the height but will sort this out later at installation. So my thought was to leave them dangling to be covered by the drywall.

Same goes with my COAX subwoofer locations. I have them dangling in the wall and plan is to use a LV old work bracket post-drywall.

Thank you.


texts: How can I repair a crack in my fireplace hearth?

texts: We have just purchased a house, and upon the inspection noticed the the fireplace hearth has a crack in it.  It's a clean crack, but it goes from the front to the back, and pretty much right through the concrete.  Do I need to replace the hearth, or can I repair it?


texts: How do I lay "click system" laminate flooring across an opening?

texts:
I want to lay laminate flooring throughout my apartment as one big continuous floor. Normally you start laying a row against a wall and then create a new row and click it into the previous row. This click mechanism only works correctly in one direction. The following (simple) image shows the situation (the yellow represents a wall)

How do I lay the planks in the area marked as A since the "click system" doesn't work in that direction?


texts: What are some tips/tricks to garage door lubrication?

texts:
Are there any gotchas to garage door lubrication?

I have found the Prime Flo product on Home Depot's website.

Can I lubricate the large spring at the top of the garage door? What about the garage rails? What about the rail from the garage opener that makes it all work?


texts: I changed my thermostat, not my heat does not work... help!

texts:
I know I made a mistake, but here's the storey.

When I was hooking up the new thermostat I did it with live wires, and I used metal pliers (metal touching metal).  The wires may have also touched each other during the process.  The thermostat didn't work (no power when connected to C), so I switched back to the old one and it still doesn't work.

Where do I start?

Thank you!


texts: How do I remove sticky glue from a surface using baking soda after removing peel and stick tiles?

texts: I'm removing "peel and stick" tile from ceramic tile and need to know how your reader used baking soda to remove the sticky glue from the surface after the tile was removed.


texts: Why does the blade of my table saw stop?

texts:
I have a cheap, old (but, until recently, serviceable) belt-drive, table-top table saw, Skil 10" model 3400.

Last week while cutting a 2x4, the blade stopped but the motor kept going.  I finished up with a hand-held circular saw and let the table saw cool down. When I came back to it, I looked it over.  The blade is still firmly attached to the shaft.  The nuts are secure and if I manually move the blade, the shaft turns.  When I turn it on, the blade turns (though it seems to lag the motor a bit) but when it makes contact with wood, it stops.  There's a weird, rhythmic ying-ying-ying noise when it is running.  I have some weak intuition that a bearing failed.

Any thoughts on further diagnosing -- or, better yet, repairing -- my saw?  Or should just hit Craig's List looking for a replacement?


texts: Power gone along back wall of my house and did not flip breaker

texts: I've lost power to all the plugs starting from my oldest daughter and all along the back wall of the house and to the kitchen light switch. But breaker did not flip, but I flipped them all anyway to make sure and still nothing. It did come back on for about 5secs but shut off again. And nothing since. I've run extension cords to various appliances so they still work. But I can't really afford to call and electrician. Please help


texts:
Can I get to the drain pipe through the drywall inside the house?

When attempting to dissemble my exterior drain pipe (lower main pipe), I broke something inside the wall and subsequently there is water leaking inside of the wall.  Can I get to the pipe and fix it though the interior dry wall or do I have to cut open the wall from the outside?

Thanks,

Anacrusis


texts: I have a frost proof outside spigot. When I hook the hose to it, as much water comes out near the front of the spigot (not the top) as comes out of the end of the hose. What is wrong with it? Do I need to call a plumber and have the whole thing replaced?


texts: What does "class 2 input only" mean in my LED desk lamp?

texts: What does "class 2 input only" means in my LED desk lamp? Is it the power supply? And is it the same as class II (can I use a power supply that is class II)?


texts: Connecting network gear directly to electrical line

texts:
I’m installing multiple PoE networking switches on a pier, but I’m not sure the best route for plugging them in. There are only a few existing plugs on the dock but they aren’t located near where these switches will be installed. Plus, I don’t want people to be able to unplug any of them since they’ll be powering security cameras.

All the electrical wires are contained within conduit piping, and I’m not sure what the best way to open them up is.

I’m hoping to find a way to either cut the power cables at the ends and connect them directly to the electrical cables or install a single enclosed outlet and plug them in there. I’m open to any methods and prefer to go the safest, easiest, and most used route.

Here’s an example of what the electrical line is enclosed in throughout the pier:

And here’s a picture of the absolute mess that I’m hoping to clean up:


texts:
I have knob and tube wiring for large portions of my 1950's house, including to my bathroom. Currently, I have hot and neutral coming in from the knob and tube wiring and a separate ground wire coming in from somewhere(we haven't had any electrical work done since 2014, so I don't know how that was permissible. I can't seem to trace the wire in the wall). This powers one 20A labeled GFCI (without a separate prong for a 20A plug?) and a light. The circuit is on a 20A breaker. I would like to add a second outlet by adding some NM cable to the load terminals from the GFCI (and the existing ground connection).
My jurisdiction follows the Residential Code of Ohio. Would adding this outlet be safe, and would it be permissible under code? I'm afraid of violating restrictions on extending circuits involving grandfathered wiring.
Here is a photo of the GFCI box. The nm cable goes out of the box to a switch and light. The power comes in via the old knob and tube wire on the side.

Here is a photo of the knob and tube wiring that feeds this. No idea about the NM that supplies the ground.


texts: I work at a school and the kitchen is supplied by a 100 gallon tank. I cannot run out, this would be bad. Is it possible for a company to install a secondary connection that would allow for the use of a 100 lb tank in an emergency? I am picturing a direct shutoff for both so isolation would be easy when switching feeds. Has anyone heard of this?


texts:
H

Can I just replace the bulb or do I have to replace the entire assembly? Does the bulb just unscrew or is there a spring mechanism? Also what type of bulb is it? I'd like to replace it with a bright led


texts:
I am trying to replace the valve connecting the water line to the sink in my bathroom.  The piping and sink were installed in 1975.  I'm stuck trying to remove the valve under the sink (see picture below).  When I try to unscrew the valve it will rotate but it's not actually unscrewing from the water line.  I thought maybe I needed two wrenches (one on the nut closet to the pipe and one on the valve itself).  But if they do rotate independently then I couldn't break the seal.

Is there some trick to getting this model of valve off?  I tried searching online but I just cant find any info.  Likely Im just butchering the terminology quite a bit which is hurting the search.

I'm quite a bit new at doing this type of project so its possible I'm looking right past the obvious.


texts: alternative insuluation for stainless steel dishwasher?

texts:
I just bought a new kitchenaid stainless steel dishwasher. The bad thing is it has stinky odor from the black insulation. Most likely lots of stainless steel dishwashers are using such kind of stinky material. I know it and I hate it because my German car has similar odor which make me sick. Instead of return the dishwasher, I prefer to replace the insulation with something different.

I am glad to see that this insulation layer is easy to remove (see 2nd picture).

So I am looking for alternative healthy replacement for the insulation solution? Will there be any issue if no insulation? Does insulation for dishwasher need fire resistant?

Appreciate if any recommendation on any kind of alternative insulation.


texts:
Can someone give me helpful feedback. I recently had a clogged toiled. In fact i had to take off a toilet and go in with snake and reseal the toilet back. Now my toilets flush but doesnt flush consistently. Almost every other time, water returns and fills up the bowl. To complicate the issue, i have a paralel toilet on the othe side of the wall that probably are on the same waste pipe. When water returns in the first toilet, the other toilet gets very low water level in its bowl. And if i try to flush that one as well, it gets overflow and wont flush as well..

Will be glad to get any info. Thanks


texts: I want to paint an MDF radiator cover with either a satin or a gloss paint. Should I apply to paint directly to the MDF or should I apply a primer first?


texts: Wiring for a ceiling fan. Do I create a switch or can I hard wire directly from a wall outlet?

texts:
I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom and will be putting a counter top high electrical outlet in a corner as linen storage. I plan to draw power to this new outlet from an outlet on the opposite side of the wall (bedroom). Here is my question. I am looking to install this 13" ceiling fan in my bathroom sort of tucked in the corner of the room just above the outlet I'll install on the wall.

Can I just wire a Romex directly from the new outlet and run it up into the ceiling? Or do have (or is it preferred) to use a double junction box and create a switch to power this fan. Meaning, the new outlet  will be paired with a on/off switch and my electrical outlet.
The fan is operated from a handheld remote so I don't think adding a switch will create any benefit like turning it on and off. But if it's required by code then, of course, I'll connect it to a switch.


texts: How do I connect a 4 prong cord on my GE dryer which is currently connected with a 3 prong cord?

texts:
On my GE dryer, a 3 prong cord is hooked up as shown on the picture. I want to replace it with a 4 prong cord I got with the standard green/red/black/white terminals.
I am a bit unsure of what goes where and why the ground is connected to white/yellow with a jumper on the current setup.
How would I hook up the new cord after having removed the old 3 prong one and will I keep that jumper from ground like it is now?
It was suggested that this answered my question: White wire when changing from 4 prong to 3 on dryer I read that but found it a bit confusing. The answers I got here solved it for me.


texts: How do I know when concrete needs replacing rather than just mud-jacking?

texts: I have a concrete driveway and path to my front door. Much of it has become unlevel and I'm contemplating having it mud-jacked. However, before I do, I wanted to know how I could easily tell when a piece of concrete was too far gone to mud-jack and just needs replacing.


texts: I have the drainage pipes (100mm diameter)from the gutters about 5 to 15 cm (2 to 6 in) below ground level. I want to plant small flowering plants above this area. Is it safe? Can small plants damage PVC drainage pipes?


texts: Why do I have two doorbell transformers?

texts:
I'm trying to debug why one of my doorbells isn't working, but to keep things simple, today I'm just trying to understand the reasoning and implications of what I see at the electrical box.
Background: The house has two doorbells; one original location (1967) and one added with an expansion (1980s?).  When I moved into the house in 2019 I installed a Ring Doorbell Pro at the Expansion door; it worked; I was happy.  The other doorbell does not work, although there is electricity in the wires at the doorbell (wires spark / read 12-20V with a multimeter).
Looking at the electrical box I see two transformers attached to the side.  They appear to be wired in parallel?  The silver transformer is marked 16V and the other isn't clear.  There is only one wire pair (red/white) leaving the transformers and going off into the house.  (Click for larger version)

So my questions are as follows:

What is the effect of this wiring setup?  Higher current?
Why would two doorbell transformers be wired together like this?  Cheaper than buying a bigger one when the expansion was added?


texts:
We recently bought a house that has a free-standing wine fridge placed in a space in the kitchen island (I hesitate to say installed).  We also bought this place knowing full well that unit did not work but with an allowance to replace it.

After hitting up a home improvement store, we learned that the appropriate fridge for our needs would be a "built-in" model that vents in the front.  The problem is that we can only find these styles in 15" or 24" models and the space we have is 20" (apparently the typical size for a "free standing" wine fridge).

We really like the beverage center concept but we don't want to waste 5" nor do we want to redo the cabinets for this.

What should we do with the space?


texts: Leaning cinder block fence caused by tree, what's the best way to fix this?

texts:
There's a cinder block fence with my neighbor that is leaning into their property. A tree stump and its roots are the probably causes. The tree roots are probably making the wall lean. The tree stump is about 2 ft in diameter. There is also a crack in the wall.

What's the best way to remedy the situation? If I got rid of the stump and the roots, is there a way to force the wall back to center again?

UPDATE

I've removed the stump and ground it up as much as I can. Now I see that the roots are really close to the wall and go underneath. It's been many months since I ground down the stump.
What is the best way to get rid of the rest?

I've used an ax...takes forever.
I've drilled holes and filled it with epsom salt and water...didn't do that much.
The latest technique is using an electric chain saw. Hard to maneuver around the masonry and the dirt ground.


texts: How to locate a line parallel to adjacent building for a new building

texts:
I want to build a new building next to an existing building.  The new building must be parallel to the old building, but shifted forward, as shown below.  What is the best way to find a parallel line to the existing building in order to mark and set the footers for the new building?

For example, an existing building is here:

+----------------------------+
|                            |
|                            |
|                            |
|                            |
+----------------------------+

I want to add another building a few feet away, shifted halfway to the right but maintaining parallel walls with existing building:

               +------------------------------+
               |                              |
               |                              |
               |                              |
               +------------------------------+

What's the best way to find the parallel line?


texts: nest 2nd gen, no common wire/terminal in the fan coil unit

texts:
I'm trying to install an older nest in my condo but it immediately complains that there's no common wire attached (error e24). I opened up the fan coil in my condo and there is no specific terminal for the common wire. Is there anywhere on this circuit that I can connect a c wire? Some people tell me that if I hook a wire to one of those transformer terminals that will give me 24v, but others have told me that it won't work.

Or would I be better off getting a 24vac adapter and connecting the wires to C and Rc? (with the R wire from the fan coil unit going to Rh). This seems like a common fix on youtube for people lacking a common wire. I'd prefer though if I can just attach a wire somewhere in the fan coil system though. Thanks!


texts: Why do I have to hold the handle down to flush the toilet?

texts:
I have to hold the handle down to flush my toilet completely. I took a look inside and I am wondering if it has something to do with the chain or the flapper. I am noticing that the flapper does not stay up unless the handle is being held down.

Does this make sense? Does it sound like I need a new flapper or could it be something else altogether?


texts: I don't have a disposal, my kitchen sink fills when my dishwasher empties, why?

texts: I don't have a disposal, when the dishwasher empties my kitchen sink fills


texts: What are these called for tightening rope wire?


texts: Is it okay to put 3/4" plywood over 1/2" wood subfloor?

texts:
I recently purchased a 2 level condo and took out existing hardwood floor on the 2nd floor. Some of the pieces of plywood is pretty old. I wanted to get an honest opinion on whether I should replace the plywood or put plywood on top? The current plywood is 1/2" wood. Would this cause me problems later? I am planning to keep the property and want to ensure I am making the right decision. The joist on the rim of the rooms are under the walls which would make it difficult to replace from what I'm understanding.

Any thoughts? My head is spinning..Help!


texts: What's the right tool for painting joist bays in my basement?

texts:
I'd like to paint the joist bays in my basement to brighten the basement up. No, putting up acoustic tile is out of range for the budget, but paint is in.

I've tried a small portion with a roller and brush, but I'd like an easier way.

I've considered renting an airless sprayer and doing all the bays in one shot; however, I'm not sure I can get it all done in one day, and I'm wondering about the home/handheld sprayers (like the Wagner line).

Can these sprayers paint overhead?

Am I in for more work than it's worth trying to tape and tarp everything I don't want paint on from the atomisation of the paint into the air?


texts: When drilling metal, should I start with a smaller bit before using a larger bit?

texts:
From this site, it mentions

  In other words, most professionals will start with smaller metal drill bits and work up using metal drill bits of various sizes until the hole is the desired diameter.

Is it necessary to start with the smaller metal drill bits? Are there scenarios whereby it is not recommended to start with the smaller drill bits?


texts: Is it dangerous to not replace a steam boiler pressure gauge that is stuck at 0?

texts: Everything else works and it's heating fine. Let me know if you have more questions.


texts: Is building your own house/addition documented step-by-step anywhere?

texts:
I have a lot of experience with remodeling and hiring subs. I have observed the build process multiple times, so I know what is involved in it.

I am wanting to do an addition to my house, and so far the only quote I have received has been in the ballpark of $165/sqft. I really don't want to receive quotes where we are taking finishes into account and the few GC I spoke to don't even want to discuss that. I can either do most of the finish work myself, or I am VERY comfortable hiring out subs for that portion as I have done that probably hundreds of times.

I am thinking I might just want to GC it myself at this point, but would like to know good books/resources for going through what is involved step by step. Being an addition, it would be nice to read up on how to attach to the current structure, and handle the new roof, etc.. and every step along the way so I can be prepared for what is involved.

Any resources or experience shared would be helpful.


texts: Converting electric receptacle with one hot and two neutral wires to GFCI

texts:
I'm trying to replace my washing machine receptacle with a GFCI one.  The home was build in the early 70's and there is no ground wire.
The receptacle had two neutral wires and one hot wire.  I found the breaker shut it down, but then when I was working on the outlet I got zapped.  It appears that the two neutral wires are on different circuits.  I went and turned off some other breakers until all everything was dead (used a tester this time).  I took my multimeter and found this

Connecting one neutral and hot (with the breaker back on) reads 120 volts.  Connecting the other neutral to the hot reads 240 volts.  We're having our electrical service updated in about a year and some new circuits added for a shop upgrade and I think this will get addressed then if needed, but I'd still like to get the outlet working so I can use the washing machine.
Do I just pigtail the two neutrals together and use the line part of the GFCI?
Thanks for everyone's help.  This site is awesome.
Here's a picture of the box.


texts: What is causing whistling from shower head (shower stall w/o bathtub)?

texts:
In the master bathroom on the second floor, there is a shower stall that does not contain a bathtub or diverter valve. The shower stall only contains a knob to turn the shower on, and then the shower head itself.

When I turn the shower water on, I can hear a whistling noise, and its volume changes depending on the position of the shower head. (The shower head does not have a rotatable head that changes the spray pattern. By “position of shower head,” I mean that when I move the shower head left or right or up or down, it can change the volume or pitch of the whistling.)

Also, with the shower running, if I turn on the HOT water to the sink in the same bathroom, the whistling changes (I can't really discern whether the volume increases or decreases).

What could be causing the whistling? (The shower head is a higher flow variant from which I removed the internal restricter. It's less than a year old. I already tossed the original that was on it when I purchased the house.)


texts:
My house is 54 y/o. Years ago the circuit panel was upgraded to all 20 amps with the exception of the AC and oven.
I am adding a can light which uses 12 - 18 gauge wire. I chose 14 gauge.
I am wanting to tie it in to the existing on/off switch which I believe may be wired with 12 gauge wire. Is it safe to tie in the 14 gauge to the 12?


texts: Where is electrical trench measured from on slope?

texts:
My pool is about 7ft from fence, and i need to dig a trench about 70ft long. About 10ft (will bring pvc at 45 degree angle to fence and out 45 deg to other side of pool) will run along fence and the land abruptly slopes by fenced area to keep the dirt off the fence.

The slope starts about a foot away from fence, right where I would like to start the trench. Im debating hand digging, but I would like to get the smaller 18inch deep trencher .. so im wondering if i am able to run a board to help keep trencher straight, what would be reference to measure for depth? The higher side or low side of soil?

I ask mostly because if i needed to go deeper a ditch witchis much too big, and I am using pvc conduit so I will need to dig the rest otherwise. I figure with the 18inch trencher i can use my 15lb digging bar to smash down the extra inch so 18 inches measures from top of conduit. But now im wondering how the slope will play into this.

Picture:


texts: Why's my dishwasher making grinding noises during pre-wash?

texts:
We have an LG dishwasher that sat in storage brand new unboxed for 10 years, until we moved and installed it in the new house. Well, it's making an awful grinding noise only during the first 20 minutes of pre-wash, after which it goes away and washes the dishes perfectly. When I open the door in pre-wash there's barely any water dripping down. What's it doing so different in pre-wash? My guess is the food disposer is running. Is this dishwasher past its lifespan or saveable?
Edit: Model is LDF6920ST
Link to sound


texts:
I have 2 concrete small slabs (2m x 5m) that are sloped with 1.5% ending in the wall of the lower floor, 3 sides of the slabs have walls (just the low level doesn't). What is the best course of action to deal with this rain water?

Can I just let it run along the wall below?

Should I build a small (10cm) wall in the open end and use a scupper or some other thing?

I don't want to use gutter because I will need to put a ladder against it from time to time for maintenance.


texts: Can I use marine plywood as a deck surface?

texts: I have a deck that needs to be re-planked.  I've seen it suggested that, instead of deck planks, one could use marine-grade plywood as a flooring.  If so, it seems that this would be both lower material cost and easier install.  Is this true?  Are there disadvantages?  Are there guidelines for such installations?


texts: Repair driveway expansion joint sealant during winter?

texts:
We moved into a new construction home this part March. At our first warranty walkthrough, our builder told us that because we were a north facing home, we would have to seal our expansion joint where the driveway meets the garage in order for our concrete warranty to remain valid. They recommended cutting down the felt that was there from when the concrete was poured and then using a self leveling sealant over top. I did this in August using Sikaflex, though it turned out to be a bigger pain than expected to cut the felt down.

Everything seemed fine until this weekend, when we got our first sizeable snow and weather has been bitterly cold (sub zero temps). When leaving for work this morning, I noticed the driveway by the garage looks to have heaved up a bit and, unfortunately, the sealant has pulled away entirely from the garage side for the entire length of the opening. This leaves a crack all the way across, which I fear will result in more heaving as water runs off the cars and out of the garage, and now under the driveway. I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to repair the sealant over the winter or if I'm stuck watching my new driveway get damaged? How likely is this to cause substantial issues over the winter?


texts: Closet door replacement from 36" to 48" wide

texts:
I want to remove my old fold-in 36" door, expand the opening to fit two 24" doors (with hinges) and frame.  I want to know what is the exact width of the closet opening to fit that?

Paolo


texts: Is it safe to cap off live red wire in split receptacle?

texts:
Ontario, Canada.
Kitchen has a split receptacle with 2 hot wires (black and red). The metal tab on the receptacle (on the side of black/red wires) is broken off. There is a combined 20amp breaker at the electrical panel.

I am trying to install a USB charger receptacle, but it has just neutral, hot and ground terminals.

Is it safe to simply cap off the red wire, tape it up nicely, and push it to the back of the gang box?

I am not comfortable changing the breaker on the electrical panel.


texts: Is this deck plan strong enough for a hot tub

texts:
I'd like to know if this deck plan is strong enough for a 7'x7' hot tub. The max weight with water and seven people is 4,800lb. I'd like to keep the four post design because there is an 18" Oak stump in the middle, and I want to avoid the root system as much as possible. I'm going to dig and cut the roots as much and as deep as necessary to get a big flat holes.
This picture should have enough information to understand the plan.
[Edit] This would be built with treated Southern Yellow Pine.


texts: Gap where two different roof lines meet - best way to close up?

texts:
In my attic today I noted that where two different roof lines meet and overlap there is a large visible gap where light was coming in.

It looks like they shingled the lower roof and then built the higher roof above since you can see shingles inside the attic. I am guessing this gap is reducing heating/cooling efficiency, moisture, and could let critters in so I want to fill it properly.

I was thinking some orange canned spray foam, but not sure if I need to do something special here in this case.


texts: Are there any dangers to sistering a joist with oversize lumber?

texts:
I've done some research lately on joist sistering as a solution to bouncy floors.  The logic seems to revolve around the following principles.

The stress of carrying a load is at the center of the span
Taller is better than wider for a joist, i.e. a 2 by 12 will be a better joist than a double two by six.
For joist sistering the sister can be less wide than the original joist, but it should always sister over the middle of the span.

Most of what I've read involves glueing and nailing an identical piece of lumber to the original framing member, i.e. sistering a two by eight onto the original two by eight.

One thing that occurred to me though: if it doesn't have to span the original distance, and the load is at the center of the span, then why not use a large piece of lumber for greater stability?  If I sistered a 2 by 12 onto the original 2 by 8, wouldn't that be stronger than sistering with a 2 by 8?

I'm sure there is some logical problem that I'm not seeing.  Are there any hidden dangers to the idea of sistering with an oversized piece of lumber?


texts: A neighbor ask me to help him figure out why his back doorbell isn't working. When I arrived, the back door button was gone. I know you should just be able to touch the wires together to get the chime to go off. The back doorbell wires go straight to the chime. The front doorbell wires go to the transformer. There is another set of wires at the transformer that go to the chime. The two reds are on the transformer and the whites are wire nutted together. The front doorbell works fine. I can't get my mind wrapped around this wiring setup.   My question is, will this set up work with the back doorbell wires going straight to the chime? I have tested the wires with an ohm meter so I know the wires go to the back door and they are not broke anywhere. Any ideas how I can wire this up without the wires from the back door going to the transformer?  Thanks for any help.


texts: Can I use 12 awg ground copper for 14 awg electrical box wirings?

texts: My electrical box has 14 awg wires and I have a 12 awg copper ground wire lying around.  Can I use the 12 awg copper or do I need to get a 14 gauge?


texts: What mortar should be used for flagstone?

texts:
I once read about a mortar that starts as a powder I could put in between my flagstones, and then just wet it down and it would harden in place.

Do you know what this product is?


texts: Retrofit ground wire from water main ground

texts:
I am replacing an old oven.  It is currently wired with 3 wire (AL SE cable) and has no dedicated ground run.  I would like to install a proper 4 wire outlet for the new range.
Am I allowed to use the ground run already existing into my house that is grounding the water system as pictured?
If so, what would be the proper way to attach the new ground wire to this run?


texts: Kitchen area tank uses hot water from a/c water recovery. When breaker for tank is turned on, hot water comes thru cold line. Never had this happen before until last year. I changed thermostat on tank, but it's still a problem.


texts: Ground a dryer converting to a 3-prong cord - manufacturer hardware missing

texts:
I need to change the cord on an electric dryer from 4-prong to 3-prong. My questions concern 1) what to do with the ground when moving to the 3-prong dryer and 2) how to test whether the installation is working as it should using a multi-meter.

The dryer is a Bosch WTMC3300US/01. The relevant section of the manual is here:

The ground strap that the documentation mentions is not present nor is it available. I have fashioned a connection from 10 gauge copper wire. The new installation looks like this:

My research on the wisdom of this connection is all over the place, and I'm very interested in not screwing up. (One electrician I asked told me to connect the middle lead of the pigtail to the ground screw and leave the neutral empty. The most read post on this site says not to connect the ground and neutral. The manual says to use the ground strap, presumably connecting the neutral and ground.)

This is the wiring diagram for the dryer:

This is the original 4-prong configuration:

Thanks for your input.

EDIT: This is the inside of the current dryer receptacle, which is connected to a THQL breaker in the junction box (picture of that in the comments):


texts: Is it normal or necessary to line gas fireplace cavities with drywall?

texts:
Some drywall and framing was demolished around my gas fireplace during a drain tile installation. It looks like the framing/walls around the fireplace are built on 2x4's with fire resistant drywall on both sides — i.e., inside the cavity.

This isn't quite what I expected to see, just given the tutorials I've seen online. I was expecting 2x4 framing inside, with clearance from the fireplace, and drywall on the outside only.

But, is this the normal, necessary, or safe way to do this? Or, does this look like it was an over-precautious DIY project?

What do I ultimately need to do to restore this safely?


texts:
Is there anything in the NEC that would prevent me from attaching MC cable with ground to EMT with a compression coupling?  I will be skinning the MC cable roughly about 10 to 15 feet where it enters a 1900 box to feed an outlet.

Edit:  the compression coupling would not be accessible.


texts: Are there pitfalls to joining utility Energy Wise programs?

texts:
I'm specifically talking about Duke's EnergyWise program, but I'm fairly sure utilities everywhere are adopting similar programs. The idea is that they tie into your major appliances (i.e., heatpump and hot water heater) - during high demand they can temporarily shut off your appliances (maximum of like 16m at a time) and in return you get a credit of up to ~$150 on your power bill over the course of a year.

What are the gotchas for this kind of program? Assuming I'm ok with them occasionally turning off my heat pump and hot water heater for a few minutes every now and then, should I be concerned with anything else?


texts:
So I have done a decent amount of drywalling recently and know of a few techniques that can be done when patching holes. I am curious if someone with much more drywall experience can help define a better method?

So far what I know as techniques are:

Just using joint compound to fill the hole
Sticking drywall tape or some other mesh across a hole and then placing joint compound on top of it
Screwing the drywall directly to a stud or other 2x4 support behind it if one is exposed and available, tape around edges, joint compound on top.
Installing an entire 4 x 8 sheet where both sides get plenty of screws, tape on edges, then joint compound on tape
Installing a support behind, anchoring to it, tape, joint compound

So I would assume that:

Technique 1 can be used for very small holes. Probably 1/2 inch or smaller?
Technique 2 can be used for slightly larger holes than technique 1 but at what size does this seem to be ineffective?
Technique 3 and 4 are always a good choice when available but they are not always available as sometimes the hole is not big enough to do these. Is it better to make the hole bigger so one of these can be used?
I have used technique 5 mostly for ceilings where any installed drywall that is too large will simply fall off.

So my question is basically when should you use each technique? Am I missing any or should any I listed not be used?


texts: Black stains and discoloration on outer foundation wall of a house - water damage?

texts:
The outside foundation wall of this house has visible black stains and discoloration.  The house is a bungalow built around 1970.  No way to tell what the inside of the foundation looks like (covered with drywall/paneling).
The house is located within 1000 feet of water, but it's on relatively flat ground.
Is this a sign of water damage to the foundation, or is it just dirt?


texts: Tape vs corner bead order of installation

texts:
Where a drywall sheet joint meets an outside corner, is it better to first install the tape over the joint or the metal corner bead?

My old drywall finish guy did tape first, I think, but my new guy wants to do corners first. For me it makes sense to to tape first so that the tape is tucked under the bead.


texts: I have a pedestal fan that I have had for a while and recently stopped oscillating. what is the fix for this? would it make more financial sense to just buy a new one?


texts: unique ? about venting tankless water header

texts:
I am installing a tankless water heater at the house. My question is unique because I can not find a reference anywhere in the code and the installation manual about where to place my exhaust vent.

I am installing a tankless water heater in the basement. Due to reasons about where the basement floor drain is located and my HVAC duct work, it turns out my exhaust vent will most likely terminate outside next to the stairs for deck. I've attached a picture.

I meet all the requirements for distance from the window as well as the sliding glass door. Also, this vent does not go under the deck so that doesn't apply.

I'm going to install a Rheem flush mount vent termination kit right where the stairs cross the rim joist. This picture shows my location.

I've talked with the building dept. in my town and they say just follow the manufactures instruction. Yet, those instructions don't cover my situation.

What is the general opinion about my setup? It seems acceptable to me, just not perfect.


texts:
I want to set up fan and light controls in three wall boxes, i.e. one fan/light control on each side of the bed, and one fan/light controller at the entrance to the room.

How can I do this?


texts:
I had my house built last year and after moving in noticed that in our living room (6 led downlights) when we turn our lights on 5 turns on at once and the 6th one will be delayed ranging from 1/2 sec to 5 sec to turn on... the electrican came to have a looked last year but said its cause the 6th bulb was installed later so it takes longer to turn on (which frankly we thought was BS as we had downlights previously in our old house and always turned on at same time).

The switch controls the living room lights (6 leds), the alfresco (4 LED) and the external flood light, no dimmers.

Anyways it really wasn't big an issue, had someone else had a quick look but he couldn't really tell, so left it, a year pass and not longer is the light still playing up, also the dining and kitchen lights are being funny... taking longer then normal to turn on.

We had our 1year maintenance and totally forgot about the lights! I am concerned it might be the actual wiring behind that's the issue, can anyone advise if this is normal behaviour for LED downlights or if they reckon its more serious than that and we should call the builder back to have a look?

Thanks in advance, hopefully this makes sense to those reading!


texts: Why did my coat of spray paint crack along a profile line?

texts:
I am spray painting my cabinet doors.

The first and second coats are good. However, I see cracking on the edges of each door after third coat. The surface is good, quite smooth.

Do you know what could be the problem?

My paint expired a little bit. The humidity is 74%. But I didn't see same problem when the first and second coats were applied.

I am using GRACO HANDHELD sprayer with 414 tip. Paint is water based.


texts: Joists not resting on middle wall sill plate, created unlevel floor above

texts:
You can't really see that well from picture, I may take some new ones to show the issue more clearly.  This is a middle wall in my basement, the joists go from a wall passing over this one, to the perimeter wall of the foundation. The problem is that a couple of the joists don't touch the middle wall's sill plate at all, and have nearly an inch gap. I wouldn't care so much, but this has resulted in the floor above being unlevel. I have a block foundation, and that sill plate doesn't even seem attached to anything.
How can I fix this problem?


texts: How can I remove old tile mortar from a concrete floor?

texts: I'm about to tile my bathroom floor but the floor is concrete and it is not flat. It still has the thinset trowel markings on certain areas and they are not in the same direction. How do I even out the floor?


texts:
I'm trying to remove a schlage lever on an interior door (there is no lock, only a latch). I've removed

the levers
the latch
the finish covers
two screws that connect the two halves of the lever mechanism

Now I'm left with what's left in the picture above. There doesn't seem to be any more accessible screws or release pins. There is a collar nut in the center. I don't seem to be able to turn it (perhaps it needs a special tool).

Ideas ?


texts: What do I need to do if the neutral bar is live in the panel box?

texts:
In my panel box I have just discovered that the neutral bar is hot;it actually shot sparks.  I was putting in a breaker for a new ceiling fan and light attached and went to put the neutral on the neutral bar and when I touched the bar with the wire it shot the sparks.

What would cause it to do that?

How can I fix it?


texts: Polyurethane Curing - will blue tape or dropcloths damage it?

texts:
I just sanded, stained, and polyurethaned the floors in a house I am refinishing. I put on 2 coats of Ultra-Fast Drying Polyurethane for Hardwood Floors on Monday, surface sanded and added a 3rd coat Wednesday morning. The can says 72 hours to return furniture but the surface doesn't feel fully cured yet (Friday). I am supposed to get a truck load of cabinet components delivered Saturday, with heavy boxes, hand trucks, and movers going across the floor.

Will taping down kraft paper with blue painters tape help save the surface or affect curing? What about plastic or cloth drop cloths?

The boxes will probably need to be stacked in a finished room, will this lead to damage or affect the finish?

I can live with adding a week to the final cure time as long as the floor will still cure after the drop cloths or boxes are moved, but I don't want tape patterns or box imprints in the finish.


texts: Does anything look wrong with this Furnace burner start up?

texts:
Here is the back story:

Starting to finish basement, needed to exhaust my furnace outside
instead of drawing in air for combustion inside the house. Hired
HVAC person to do this in the fall.
Winter arrives, I go to run furnace, first really cold day and the
furnace won't start up (an Armstrong Air unit) that is 8 years old. Error codes tell me: "pressure switch open with inducer on".
I call up same HVAC person. There is no report, but he determines
that my exhaust motor is the culprit. It is replaced. They do not
replace the pressure switch or give me any diagnostic reports or paper work. The repair costs me $600 (that is the
cash deal). Tells me that it includes parts warranty and labour
warranty for a year and to call him if it happens again.
Furnace starts running for 10 more days. Gets really cold again, and
furnace stops working again with the exact same error code. Same
HVAC repair person comes back and tells me that my heat exchanger is
cracked without opening anything up within 20 min of being here
(based on the flame at the burner) and tells me the entire furnace
needs to be replaced.
He leaves with the furnace running again after simply disconnecting the
air intake pipe from outside, saying I can leave it off until I decide on
which new furnace I want to install and gives me the fear mongering
talk about CO2. He also wants to sell me a refurbished furnace that he has, or offers to sell me a new Payne unit which seems to have a less than desirable track record.

I have come to the conclusion that this guy has taken me for a bit of ride and overcharging me for the service (which I confirmed with another reputable person in town asking me to quote the same work), and he also didn't necessarily honour his warranty after charging me another

I ended up putting a shop vac on the end of the intake pipe (disconnected) and blew some hot air through the tube from the outside to melt any ice or snow inside for about 10 min and made sure there was no obstructions. I reinstalled the intake on the furnace and the furnace seems to be running fine right now.

I know these Armstrong furnaces are not the most reliable, but I would like to get an opinion to see if there is anything abnormal about the flame that would indicate a cracked heat exchanger. There looks to be a bit of rollout during the initial ignition, but beyond that, to my untrained eye, it flames seem to be fairly concentrated through the openings and not like the examples of rollout I have seen online. Here is a video of the startup sequence of the burners.

https://youtu.be/3zoq5lxpHGk

Any thoughts?


texts: What are these latches at the top and bottom of this window for?

texts: Getting a hernia trying to open these windows. I've unlocked them so they're either stuck or I'm doing something mindlessly wrong. Regardless, scratching my head trying to figure out what these latches are for? And the little boxy thing (alarm-related)? TIA for any info


texts: Trouble turning off supply valve - need it shut off but won’t fully close

texts:
I am attempting to install a bidet attachment I ordered online. The first step is to shut off the supply valve and empty the toilet, as it attaches on between the supply valve and tank.
I am unable to fully shut off the water supply. The supply valve opens fully and it will stifle the supply water somewhat but not completely off it. I am afraid to force it or use a tool with my level of plumbing knowledge. Could any helpful people give me advice on a course of action? I see a screw on top of the valve— I’m deathly afraid of losing some piece of it and flooding the bathroom. As much as I can hand turn it, it just isn’t enough to cut off the supply to do the work needed.
I could shut off the entire house water supply if all else fails but I’d like to be able to turn off the water supply valve locally.


texts: I have a outdoor lighting  product with Brown(A) , Blue(N) , Red(Load) wiring but coming out of my old home  is red , black , green / yellow wires how to connect


texts: What can I do about a room over the garage with temperature problems?

texts: I'm learning many things about our new home. This winter I learned that a room directly above a garage stays much colder than the rest of the house (up to 10+ degrees colder in our case). What options exist to eliminate or reduce this problem? Is there some way I can easily increase the insulation without having to tear floors up, or open up ceilings - or is that the best option available to me?


texts:
We bought a contemporary newly designed carpet. But it has only been a week now, and the carpet has started to show some damage even though we haven't used it. There was a particular blackish yellow stain in a corner and some parts of the carpet are ripped.
There was no problem whatsoever when buying the carpet as it wasn't the problem of the purchase. Could someone help me out with a suggestion to repair this ripped carpet situation?


texts: Should I hire an architect to design my house?

texts:
I am planning to build a house for my family. It's relatively simple and modest by modern American standards. I plan to do much of the work myself, and want to keep costs down.

I have been working on some designs, but I wonder what a professional would bring to the table. Some guesses:

Easier time at the permit office, as architect knows the codes, draws pretty pictures, and the permit officer knows what to expect.
Architect will offer clever solutions to difficult problems.
Architect will be able to "see" the completed house, from drawings, better than I can, and knows what will work well.
Architect will cost an arm and a leg.
Architect will want a house to be fancy or make a statement about society.


texts: Is it alright for an exhaust fan to vent into the loft?

texts:
I live in a rented property, when I moved in a new bathroom suite had been installed.

We however have had chronic condensation problems in the property.

when going into the loftspace I could not believe that the ventilation pipe is just venting into the loft itself.

Also the exhaust fan is approx 6 feet high from the bathrooms ceiling and there is a bend in the pipe of approx 60 degrees, and then after another foot or so, the fan sits.

I'm just enquiring if this is in anyway cited as good practice, or is the workmanship poor?


texts:
I've got an old dryer outlet in a 1 gang box with 10/3 Romex cable running to a 2-pole 30amp circuit breaker. I've converted the old laundry room into a server room. I want to get a bigger UPS that requires an L5-30R outlet. Since there is already 10/3 Romex run I have a few options.

1) Install an L14-30R and use a Y-adapter that breaks the two poles into two L5-30R outlets.

2) Install two L5-30R outlets, pigtailing the neutrals and grounds and split the two hot legs from the 10/3. This requires a new box and extra work but might be worth it long term.

3) Something smarter?

Thanks!


texts: Could someone explain these wiring diagram symbols please?

texts:
This is for a bathroom ceiling fan.

I recognise the pull cord switch. It's the two middle symbols I'm not sure about.

The square one on the right. Is that just a switch? Something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-13a-double-pole-switched-fused-connection-unit-white/86116
The round one on the left. Is that a three way junction box? What's with the spiral symbol between Ls and N?

I'd be very grateful if someone could provide links to appropriate components that would match those two parts.


texts: Should I extend existing furring strips or remove them and start fresh?

texts: I have a house built in the 1960’s, and when I pulled off the plaster as part of the kitchen remodel, I discovered 2x2 studs against the gray cinder blocks. My question is, should I cut out the 2x2s and reframe with 2x4s, or can I furr out the 2x2s another 2 (1.5) inches,so I don’t have to reframe and can meet code?


texts: Is Black & Decker's "Codes for Homeowners" (3rd edition, 2015) a useful resource?

texts: Is the Black & Decker "Codes for Homeowners" worth buying as a home improvement reference work?


texts: How do I remove the head of this turn tap?

texts: I believe this is called a turn tap. I need to replace the washer due to it dripping, however I've not had much luck removing the head. My thought was that the blue plastic piece would pop off to reveal a screw, but I've not been able to prise it off, and there's not even enough clearance to get a screwdriver under it. How do I remove this type of tap head to replace the washer?


texts: How to repair a faucet leaking when tap is turned on...?

texts:
I have a bathroom faucet (Pegler) with separate hot and cold taps. When I turn on one of the taps water starts slowly leaking out around the base of the tap. The faucets work fine, and there's no leaking when turned off.
I tried opening the tap and replacing the O ring on the cartridge inside; I even put a bigger ring on, which seemed to work at first but now after about 10 secs it's still leaking.
Do I need a new cartridge or is there anything else I could try?
Thanks for any help!
Alan


texts: How do I keep my house cool especially my terrace during summer?

texts:
I live in Bangalore in an apartment on the top floor and during summer, my terrace (built of concrete) absorbs a lot of heat. When I come home and switch on the fan, it ends warming my room and it is not cool throughout the night. The sun doesn't shine through windows or the walls much since there are trees in my apartment which help, but it is the terrace that takes a lot of heat especially during afternoons. Can anyone give any simple DIY approach on how I can keep my terrace cool. (I am not looking to install any kind of air cooler.)

Some options I thought of were:

Hang a cloth on some poles to cover the terrace.
Keep plants on the terrace (not something my
    association will approve)

Does any one have any ideas?


texts: Can I install 3/8" engineered Hickory hardwood over a painted OSB subfloor?

texts:
We bought a large badly abused foreclosed home to restore. The home exists in an area where hardwoods throughout are the norm for resale and engineered wood in the same where good product is used and respected by knowledgeable buyers.

When we first bought the property we knew we would later hardwood the entire home once the renovations were completed but in order to afford our project we had to live in the home while renovating.

Since the entire home had horribly pet stained carpets and damaged floor coverings the first thing we did was remove ALL the older carpeting and vinyl goods and then we sealed all the OSB with KILLS oil based primmer and then sealed the floors with Bear brand latex Porch paint (2 coats).

This offered us amazingly easy to clean and oder free floors that allowed us to comfortably live and clean the home over the past 2 years while waiting to install our hardwood last when all our updates were completed.

The home is now done and we are ready to install our hardwoods. BUT one question has arose in our minds.....is it SAFE to now install a 3/8" engineered hardwood product over all the OSB painted floors?? Can covering the now painted OSB cause any vapor issues or problems with the hardwood once installed.

We planned to use ether 15pound Rosin or Roofing felt as well in between the new wood and the OSB subfloor. Any comments on if we did a bad thing by painting the floors as we did? We did not account for this being an issue or creating a major cost to fix but want to make sure it will be safe and not cause any problems later on in the home and future longevity of the hardwood product (Armstrong American Handscrape).


texts: Vent-free natural gas fireplace - No gas when attempting to light pilot

texts:
A number of years ago, we had a vent-free gas log set installed in our fireplace.  It has always seemed to work just fine.  Normally, when we are not using it for prolonged periods, we shut the gas off to it entirely, so no pilot.

Today, I turned the main gas line to the fireplace on, then turned the knob on the gas valve to "Pilot" and held it in all the way (spring-loaded), but I did not hear any audible indication that there was gas coming out, nor could I smell any.  I attempted to depress the Pilot knob multiple times, holding it for prolonged periods sometimes.  Absolutely nothing.

I then shut the main gas line off, then disconnected the log set's gas valve from the main supply pipe.  I very slowly turned the main gas line toward it's "open" position, and it didn't take much of a turn before I did hear gas coming through that opening, so I immediately shut the main gas back off.  So the main supply isn't the problem.  There's gas coming into my supply pipe from the meter.

In the case of a natural gas fireplace log set such as this set, what might be the most likely culprit?  I've read some threads here on DIY SE that have dealt with similar situations with LP fireplace logs, but nothing specifically regarding natural gas.  It seems there are some other factors that affect these devices when they're connected to an LP supply.

I would probably be comfortable replacing the gas valve body if that was likely to be the problem, but I'm not sure how I would go about testing and diagnosing so that I could be sure that I need to spend $150 on the replacement gas valve (SIT 820 - 0820637).

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I thank you for reading.