texts: Why do I read no voltage with my humidistat's solenoid is installed?

texts:
I've been troubleshooting my humidifier for a bit now (just learning this stuff as I go). It would appear the wiring for the furnace (apparently the transformer) meets the wiring for the humidistat and the solenoid inside the furnace. I've replaced the solenoid already as we have hard water and it's pretty easy to replace.

What I'm seeing is that when I pull the new solenoid out of the wiring junction, I get a solid 28v at the wiring junction. When I put the solenoid back in, I get nothing. That doesn't make sense to me. If they are all wired together, where's the voltage going?


texts: What should I do to this basement closet so I can put clothes in it?

texts: We bought a house that had a closet along part of the basement wall. it has the water meter in it and on outside wall also.  we carpeted the basement along with the closet. the closet has drywall in it. I have stored some clothes in the closet to find that there is some white stuff (most likely mildew) on some of the jackets. What can I do or should I do to make the closet able to put clothes in? We are very handy so if we should have to put new dry wall up we can.


texts: Trane Furnace Fan Works, But Heater Won't Run

texts:
As stated, my heat isn't coming on.

When this started:
Everything has been all fine and dandy all winter. The other day I ran the fan only for a few hours without the heat.
After this, my heat would no longer turn on.

I figured maybe my pilot light had gone out, so I went and checked. Turns out I have an electric pilot light.

I've done some troubleshooting already.

-10A round fuse on the side of the heater is good. Replaced it with new just to check that off.
-Breaker was not flipped. Cut power and reengaged power just to check that off.
-Thermostat can engage the furnace fan by setting it to "Fan On".
Setting the heat causes it to call for heat (click noise). Heat does not come on.
-Gas dial on inside of furnace is set to "on". I turned it to off and cut power, then reengaged everything before trying to call for heat from the thermostat just to check it off.

What am I missing here? Could something have failed while I was running the fan?

I have a Trane model BLU068L942A1. Probably from the 80's.


texts:
My county uses the 2014 NEC with no modifications. I'm wiring my newly built detached garage myself.
I had the rough-in inspection, and everything was ok for it, but the inspector had some concerns about my 50A outlet that might be a problem during the final inspection.
It is a NEMA 14-50 receptacle (non locking) that I installed for EV charging. He said people usually put a disconnect on it for plugging in welders and stuff, but since I'm using it for an EV, I could put a lock on the breaker instead (he said to look for water heater locks).
I understand the disconnect from a safety/convenience factor for things that might immediately draw current when plugged in and arc... but I don't want to mess with installing a disconnect since the circuit breaker is ~20 ft away, unobstructed. The lock makes no sense to me.
I looked through the NEC and couldn't find any code suggesting a disconnect (or breaker lock)... is anyone aware of something like that? Just wanted to check before I question him more about it.


texts: Is this dry well sturdy enough to walk over?

texts: I am planning to install a dry well sold in HomeDepot in my backyard. I am wondering if this dry well would be sturdy enough to walk over. If anybody has installed this product, could you share the experience?


texts: Do I really need screw piles for a Yurt platform?

texts:
I am evaluating different options for a 24 foot diameter Yurt platform. This will be a round platform elevated between 5 and 6 feet, with 18 anchorage points. I am hesitating between options for my "foundation". The options:

Concrete deck blocks
Screw piles
Sonotubes

The expense of sonotubes or screw piles will dramatically increase the costs of the project. My feeling is that I can simply build the platform on concrete deck blocks. If the platform shifts I should be able to jack it and dig out or fill in as needed. I am wondering if anyone can make a compelling case for a deeper anchorage?

As for the local environment, I live on the Gaspé peninsula, about 600 m above sea level. We have a six month winter here, which means annual shifts in the soil as it freezes and thaws. The soil at my site is high in lime content, absent of clay deposits, and very rocky, Past 6 feet, I am told it is about 75% or more rock, but the actual bedrock is considered unreachable.

Many structures in my area are built on floating concrete slab.


texts: I am about to seal the gap between my tub and the wall tile with caulk (it was originally grout which cracked so I chiseled out what I could). I was planning to use silicone caulk (GE II), but a contractor suggested that pure silicone is not ideal since all caulk will eventually need to be removed and replaced and silicone is very difficult to remove. There's some logic to this, so I'm wondering - is he right? If so, what kind of caulk should I use?


texts: Solar powered thermal ballast - is it feasible?

texts:
My living room gets plenty of sun from big, west facing windows. As the cold weather is approaching, I wanted to make a device that leveraged this exposure to sunlight to store some energy and slowly release it through the night.

The initial idea was to have a solar panel, battery for electrical energy buffer, some sort of aquarium heater, and a water tank.

Water would be heated by the aquarium heater, which would be powered by the solar panel and battery through the night (as long as the battery lasts). This setup would slowly release the water's heat to the living room.

Will this be more efficient than having just a water tank painted black next to the window? The sun would heat it pretty well during the day, and the solar panel+battery+heater might not be much more efficient, if at all.


texts: Does turning circuit breakers off cause wear?

texts:
A comment over on another SE got me thinking. With screw-in fuses, unscrewing it and then later screwing it back in causes negligible wear on either part of the installation. But what about modern "switch" overcurrent circuit breakers? Does manually turning them off and back on repeatedly over a period of time cause a noticeable amount of wear?

I am considering here the case of using the breakers to turn off power for example when going on vacation, so more often than only when doing things like working on the house electrical wiring but also less often than daily. Let's say on the order of ten times per year or something along the lines of that.


texts: How can I protect items stored outdoors?

texts:
Because of space limitations in our apartment, we need to store some items in the terrace. It is basically suitcases, baby stroller and box of books. There is a ceiling, so it wouldn't rain on it, but we are concerned about the cold, humidity, etc. We live in NY: cold winters, hot summers.

What would be advisable to create a good layer of protection?


texts: I have two shops with electrical service each fed from a separate breaker at the box next to the meter. I am going to tear down one of the shops and need to abandon the service to it. How do I deal with the breaker for that shop?


texts: Can air in a Hotwater tank, prevent the pressure release valve from working?

texts:
I know I should bleed the system of air, but will any air in the tank prevent the pressure release valve from opening?

I am installing a new hot water tank. I intend to fill it, and then bleed off any air, but am concerned that if the pressure is too high it will damage the tank before I can bleed it. I am trying not to have a open pipe  to prevent damage to the room. And therefore would prefer not to fill (until water overflows) then fit the valve.


texts: My AC's internal unit throws water droplets when started

texts:
So, Summer is upon us in Palestine/Israel for a number of weeks now, and I've started using my (split-system) AC to cool the room again.
Unfortunately, in recent days, when I start the AC - the inner unit (installed above me) throws a few water droplets, just when it starts running. Now, it doesn't continue doing that, but still - it's annoying when they hit me! ... and I don't remember this happening last year.
My questions:

What causes this phenomenon? (Ok, obviously condensation and humidity; I mean what exactly is going on)
Is there something that I can do myself to mitigate it (or fix it)?

Notes:

It's very humid where I live (Haifa) - typically around 80% these days.
In case it matters - I cleaned my filters about a month back.
This AC unit is in an apartment I rent, so I don't know exactly how old it is, but - it should be somewhere between 8 and 15, I figure.
If a photo of some of the innards would help, ask.


texts: How do I find a locking doorknob for an existing door with a non-standard backset?

texts:
I'm trying to replace a lockless interior door's knob with one with a lock (not a "privacy lock", but an exterior-door-type key lock).  The existing hole and knob has a non-standard backset of about 2-5/8".  I've found plenty of new knobs that are adjustable between the standard sizes of exactly 2-3/8" and 2-3/4", but nothing that can be adjusted to something between those sizes.
Is there any way to find a knob that will fit without re-drilling or replacing the door?


texts: Best style of window for above grade basement windows?

texts:
My basement windows are roughly 2'x3' (h x w) and the exterior sill is 6 inches above grade, and 5 feet above the basement floor.  I am not particularly concerned with security beyond frustrating the casual housebreaker.

The three styles of windows that look good in a horizontal alignment are: Awning, Single Tilt Slider and Double tilt slider.  Does any one have any particular advantages in the above circumstances?  Or do I just let my wife pick the pretty ones?


texts: Can I change the plugs on low-voltage lights to allow connection to dimmable outlets?

texts:
I have sockets around my sitting room that I can control and dim from the light switch.  I want to plug in some christmas lights but don't want to change all the plugs.  CAn i change the plug on a normal extension cable for a 5 amp small round pin plug and plug in some square pin lights to that, allowing me to dim from the light switch?

Michelle


texts: Using existing exhaust stack for new furnace

texts: I'm about to replace the furnace in our house. The existing furnace uses a 6" stack through the roof. I know most new furnace installations just use PVC and poke out of the wall at about ground level. Question is, can I reuse the existing stack since it's already there? Or are we better off sealing it up and forgetting about it. I'd rather not go through the wall if possible just because we have a deck right on the other side of the wall where the furnace is located.


texts: Theories for cause of tripped breaker when power use was low due to vacation

texts:
Breaker tripped when I was away for the weekend.

breaker box

I live in the “basement” apartment of a three family home. I am below street level, but as the house is on a cliff going down to the river, it is not below ground. There is a second basement below it. The house was built in 1905.  Bought by current owner in 2004, and renovations on this unit were probably done sometime between 2005 and 2010.

I have lived here for close to three years and have had minimal electrical problems. This summer the utility company has been adding and transferring the electrical wires on the poles in front of the house, as they prepare to provide electric service to a house farther down the cliff, on the river.  As they have worked, I have lost power temporarily a few times. They deny that they did any work on the weekend in question.

My question is about a circuit breaker, which had flipped to the  “off” position when I returned from a weekend away. The refrigerator was drawing power, and the cable box, but all lights and other appliances were off. The voltage is 240. The 15 Amp breaker resisted being turned back on, it immediately snapped back to the off position again. There was some flashing with an attempt to turn the breaker back on. So far I have not had any believable explanation of how this could have happened.

This one 15 Amp breaker controls four rooms; the bathroom, the living room, one bedroom, and the kitchen.  The appliances included the TV, radio, a fan, refrigerator, stove with an electric pilot and overhead lights in the kitchen are on this breaker.  Anything not plugged into the wall directly was connected to a safety power strip.

The breaker box is in the unlocked laundry room, which is outside my apartment, and accessible to anyone who walks in there. When all items were unplugged, the breaker could then be turned back on. Plugging all items back in did not trip the circuit, and everything has been fine for two or three weeks now without any indication of a short or overcurrent.

The weekend I was away from Friday afternoon until Sunday at around 10PM. Things in the half-full freezer were defrosted, and I estimate the power was off for at least 12 to 24 hours.  My landlord told me that he was at the house and stayed in the apartment below mine the night before. He states that the lower apartment has its own circuit breaker box, totally separate from the one for my apartment.

I am curious to have some ideas on how it could happen that at a time when I was away, and electrical use was low, the circuit tripped.   Here are a few points I offer that may or may not play a role in this situation.

The landlord was in the apartment below that weekend, which is an unusual event.
Power company has been doing work on the wires  and poles both before and after this weekend.
The neighbor renovating his house and getting electricity has a history of conflict with my landlord.
Circuit breaker box is inside but easily accessed. It is in the laundry room, which has WD for one other tenant, and breaker boxes for tenants on 2 and 3rd floors. Other tenants denied any electrical problems over the weekend.
The screws were off on the breaker box, allowing the door and cover to removed, exposing the circuits and the wiring.
I was away for the whole weekend, and no one was authorized or suspected of entering my apartment.


texts: Would this be the correct way to add a timer switch to an existing fan with thermostat?

texts:
We have an existing 120V AC exhaust fan wired to simple inline attic fan style thermostat.  We would like to add a timer switch so the fan could be manually turned on as needed.

Would this be the correct way to add a timer switch?

This is the sort of timer switch we are looking to add: 12 hour timer


texts: Can a clogged toilet drain cause a tank overflow?

texts:
This is less of a "how do I" question and more of a general knowledge check.

Recently I've been having trouble with an overflowing toilet.  Fortunately for me (in this situation), I'm a tenant and not a homeowner so maintenance is provided by the property managers.  However, I'm about to be a homeowner in a few months and am simply trying to understand how the fix that was implemented (augering the toilet drain) solved the problem.

First, the problem

Simply put, the toilet overflows.  I've not caught it in the act of overflowing, as it doesn't overflow immediately after flushing the toilet.  Usually, we find water on the floor and sometimes dripping through the downstairs ceiling (if it's overflowed in the night).  Water is found running out of the flush lever hole in a small stream and the water level in the tank is much higher than usual.

The "band-aid" fix

When this happens, my initial reaction is to turn off the water line to the tank and flush the toilet, which (of course) drains the tank and prevents it from refilling.  Once the tank is emptied and the water is off, the toilet seems to stop overflowing.

The maintenance fix

After stopping the leak and setting out bowls to collect the ceiling drip, I called maintenance and told them what happened, and that I suspected the float (which is a "floating cup" type, per the internet) may have a leak that slowly allows it to sink and causes the fill valve to reopen.  Their SOP is to leave a note whenever they come describing what was done, which in this case indicated that they found no problems with the toilet and that they "unclogged the drain".

The actual question

To my knowledge, the drain wasn't clogged - at least not in the usual way where the water in the bowl can't escape and flushing causes more water to enter the bowl.  Can a drain clog cause the toilet tank to overfill?  Am I just missing something obvious?

Update

I was able to get some measurements, and it appears that the overflow tube is about 0.5" higher than the hole where the flush lever attaches to the flush arm.  This would explain why the overflow tube doesn't work as intended.

My wife also reports that the toilet has not overflowed again since the maintenance person re-opened the shutoff, however she did close the shutoff again as a precaution.

Can that pipe be cut down to allow the overflow tube to work as intended?  Then, at least, if maintenance won't believe me that there's a problem with the filler valve I won't have to worry about the toilet overrunning when we're not home.


texts:
I recently bought what I thought was pressure treated railing pickets. But now that I look more carefully at the label, there is no UC code. My understanding is that each piece of PT has to be labeled with a UC code. This looks like PT, but the tag just says WeatherShield, and on the back of the tag: "Do not burn treated wood", and "Above Ground Use Only".

Does anyone have experience with this, or can tell me what it really is?


texts: Why does my laundry machine trip the GFCI when I plug it in?

texts: My washer/dryer machine stopped working, and now when whenever I plug it into the GFCI it automatically trips the outlet (both the top and the bottom). I called an electrician in to come fix it and he said it's a problem with the laundry machine and to call an appliance repair guy. I plugged in my iron to both outlets and it didn't trip the GFCI. Any idea what might be causing this on the washer/dryer?


texts: How can I remove rust from a washing machine cabinet and protect against future corrosion?

texts:
The edges of body of the washing machine near the detergent dispenser & just above the front door is getting rusted.

I have tried cleaning it with rough & smooth emery paper. Also applied potato covered with salt. Then painted the affected area.

The problem still persists. Please help


texts:
On our property there is a fairly old garage that hasn't been tended to in some time.  The floor is cracked and buckling.  What are possible fixes for this?

I've attached a photo.  If you look closely you can see that it has heaved up sharply through the patches.


texts: I just moved into a new home and was trying to connect my Ecobee thermostat. I know it requires a C-wire. I found the wire wrapped around the others in the previous thermostat, which didn't require one. When I connected it to the Ecobee, however, it did not show the display. Assuming then that it was an issue of the C-wire not being connected, I went into the attic and looked at the wiring. Sure enough, the blue wire is there, bit wrapped around the others, not connected. I looked where it should be connected and found that there is a second red wire connected there. My question is, can I connect the blue wire (C-wire) to the same terminal that the red is connected to? It seems like I should be able to.


texts: I have looked at closet organizers and just decided on a nice bookshelf to put rods on a 10' closet.  Given the width of the bookshelf I am thinking of mounting it to the wall to give it the height needed.  It weighs 117 lbs and might have 25 lbs of stuff in maximum when full.  The width allows me to find 2 studs running vertical on the back.  If I use 3-4 screws on each side would I be ok?  Thank you.  Mike


texts: How can I resolve air leakage under wall sill plates?

texts:
I have a problem with air leakage under the base boards of our new home. I know there will be some temperature difference but how about an 8° to 10° difference? It seems to be all throughout the home. The home is built on a slab.

I have pulled back the carpet in areas and one concern I had was it looked as if the sill plate was bowed and not tight to the slab. I could stick a pocket knife blade between the sill plate and the concrete. The contractor has done a blower test on the house and assures me that we are at the standard for air leakage.

One of the closets can be as low as 49° to 55° on a cold day. This is not normal. At one point they pulled the carpet back in this problem area and you could see daylight from the garage under the base board. They applied caulk in one corner of the closet but still there is a big temperature difference. Any suggestions would be great!


texts: Properly Updating Drains for Basement Bathroom Update

texts:
Pictures https://imgur.com/a/olBlrHG basically explain it. It was a "full bath" when we bought it and sold as one, (and its recorded as such for tax purposes). I want to convert it to laundry room/shower. Location is Baltimore, MD. I need a 2" for shower and a 2" for laundry/utility sink.

Based upon my current set-up, is the correct way to just dig down and tie in a no hub 4" x 2" branch? I know I will have to vent, thinking AAV for ease/cost but willing to roof venting if necessary. Slab is old and around 2" think, so easy to cut out. Already cut a small section at old lav to see condition of existing drainage.

[![enter image description here][3]][3]

[3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/24aqw.jpg


texts: How to find where the slugs are coming from?

texts:
Every morning in our newly bought house we are finding fresh dried tracks of slugs in our kitchen. I would like to know how to find where they are coming from and how to stop them from entering the house. Has anyone encountered such an issue?

EDIT-1: Made some interesting discoveries last night. The slugs don't enter if the room is lit. When we turn off the lights, they slowly start showing up. So I took my hand torch and came back after about 45 minutes and one was poking its head from a space underneath the drawers which are beneath the kitchen counter top. After I got rid of the first one, 3 more came in when I came back after 2 hours :( I still need to figure out if there are any cracks or holes through which its entering from the outside.

Found this useful link: http://www.allaboutslugs.com/slugs-in-the-house/

EDIT-2: Here's what I did to control them from entering: Removed the wood chips near the wall for about a feet and put paver sand and line of Uncle Ian's slug repellent. In the morning, the slugs braved the sand but I can see the U-turns in the track once they encountered the repellent. I chose that since it had only dried blood and cinnamon. No toxic stuff. But it was very irritating to the nose. As soon as I opened the bag and started applying it, I kept sneezing 4-5 times.

EDIT-3: Adding my comment as an edit here. The Uncle Ian's slug repellent only helped a little. Ended up taking out the board underneath the kitchen sink and the corner shelf beneath the kitchen counter and found out there was a big hole in the floor board. The previous owners moved the kitchen sink from the corner to its current location and both of them had holes which were not properly sealed. The slugs were coming out of those two gaps from the crawl space. So I bought the Styrofoam spray, filled the holes and boarded the shelves back. After that we didn't see the slug in the kitchen - knock on wood :)


texts:
Somebody recently came and filled this deep hole up with cement.  It has been giving off a strong odor.
Does cement typically smell and how long will it take for the smell to go mostly and eventually completely.


texts:
I had a water leak when my shower supply line broke. The plumber had to shut off the water main and replace the shutoff at the water meter and shower diverter. Now when I turn on my kitchen sink hot water runs for 3 minutes then I lose pressure and the water goes off. The pipes knock a little but no air comes out of the faucet.

Is this an air pocket in the hot water heater?


texts: Intermittent low pressure natural gas to outside grill

texts: I have a Weber S-670 natural gas grill. For the last couple of months, the grill will not heat up after dark, when temperatures are lower. During daylight hours and higher temperatures, the grill works fine. I have contacted my gas supplier and they maintain I have a malfunctioning grill, not low gas pressure. I have had two separate Weber repairmen check the grill, during daylight, and they tell me the grill works as it should. Not sure how to increase pressure to the grill during neighborhood heavy gas usage. Any suggestions appreciated.


texts: Jumper wire on a light switch box and I'm not sure what else

texts:
While painting the living room the light switch cover was off. None of the switches are using the green ground screw. There is a jumper wire between switches, on the hot side. All the green wires are twisted together. The  white wires are connected together off the switches.
I'm not sure what's going on. Or if it's safe. I'm in the US
Any help would be great.


texts: Unused electrical duplex box, soon to be hidden behind a bookcase?

texts:
I'm getting ready to install bookcases for my home office (SouthWest USA).  One wall floor to ceiling consisting of four units screwed together.  In one place there is a duplex outlet right behind the joint between two bookcase units...    If the duplex outlet was in the middle of a bookcase (and not at the carcase edge) I'd just add an extender and leave it in place, but there is no way to do that in this case.  I'm thinking I'd just like to remove the outlet, add wire nuts to the wires in the box, then cover the outlet. Based on other work I've done in this house , I'm not convinced I'll ever be able to find the other end of that wire, to disconnect it and leave it 'abandoned in place'.

As I understand it I can safely (and legally to code) cover the unused junction box with a cover plate.  What I'm not clear about is must that cover plate remain accessible?  In my case you'd have to move about a thousand books and a built in bookcase to get to the cover.  I intend to screw the bookcase units in place.

Two series of questions here:

How accessible must that cover plate be?  Is there a specification (NEC code?) on what defines accessibility?  Must the cover plate be easily visible?  In my case I intend it hidden behind a built in book case assembly.
The cover plates I've seen stick out nearly 1/4 of an inch. So this one outlet pushes the entire book case 1/4" away from the wall.  Think like a machinist.  Every thousandth of an inch counts.  If I get a blank metal cover plate, hammer the curved edges flat (so the top surface of the plate now only sticks out only 1/32" or so) am I still legal?

Anybody have a solid handle on the NEC code, as it regards these questions?

Update, August 2016:
So I went ahead and flipped the circuit to the other side of an interior wall, per the comment of TomG from May 2014.

Today I'm nearly about to do the final bookcase install, and I'm debating putting in lamps on the bookcase directed at the top shelf.  I realize there was another alternative to correcting the "buried behind the bookcase" issue.. and that is to relocate the socket straight up, so it's on top of the book case installation. In my case I left 8" between to the top of the built in bookcase and the ceiling to accommodate air inlets built into the ceiling.  I could have relocated the power duplex to just above the top of the bookcase, rotated it 90 degrees and it would be invisible from the ground.  I could use that new duplex plug for the power supply for the low voltage hockey puck lamps for the top shelf.  Obviously the "move it up" choice only works if you know there is no horizontal bracing installed between the studs.


texts: T&P Valve dripping after connecting new lines to water heater

texts: I put in a new bathroom right by my water heater, about 25 ft of hot and cold pex line. Ever since The day I turned on the valves to do a leak test, I've had a very slow drip from my temperature pressure valve on my water heater. It's only a drip every few hours, creating very little water, but it has been consistently dripping. I'm wondering why this is happening. Any thoughts?


texts: I have an issue involving the heights of the pipes under the sink. I recently installed a new deeper sink and the drain is much lower to the point that it is the same height as the pipe leading into the wall. This is causing water to stay in the drain in the sink. Is there any fixes to this issue without cutting a new lower hole in the wall pipe?


texts: What type of wire should I use to feed a 70 ampere subpanel?

texts:
Finishing a basement and I need to add a subpanel.  Main panel is outside.  Subpanel will be in the basement.  70 Amp breaker in the main to feed the subpanel.  I was thinking THHN but would this mean I need to run the conduit all the way to the subpanel?

Would NM-B be ok?

Edit:  I live in Colorado if that makes any difference and I think the wire size is #6 for THHN and #4 for NM-B.


texts: What electrical wires are ok for 90C flushmount lighs?

texts:
I got a flushmount ceiling light that has a 90C wiring warning on it.

My home was built in 1956. I found the electrical wiring that runs to the light I want to change. I can't read the text printed on the wiring completely, it partially reads:

TYPE NM-B 600 VOLT9

Here's a picture of the fixture on the other side:

Anyone know if "NM-B" wiring is safe for 90C?

Thanks


texts: Temporarily moving 2 walls off of a slab

texts:
The very quick backstory is that in order to remain grandfathered to retain my current setbacks (i.e., too close to property line and alley), I must retain those 2 original walls of my garage. I intend to pour a new slab over the current one since it is too low anyway and expand it in the 2 directions I am able at the same time. Our inspector said I could lift the walls in order to do that as well as replace the sill plates, which are surprisingly solid, at the same time. To make pouring much easier, I intend to just move the walls a couple feet off the slab and move them back when new slab is ready.

My question is how to do this in the simplest manner (i.e., both time and expense wise)? My current idea is sketched below. The walls are approximately 19' and 18'. Total weight would be around 1100-1200 pounds since exterior sheathing would remain to prevent sagging. My thought is to use my 3-ton wheeled car jack and lift as close to the CG as possible (the up arrow in the sketch). Thus, I'd bolt some ledger boards to the walls (studs are 30-32" o.c. - I will be adding more!) and then bolt a braced 2x10 across the diagonal (should be 13-14') where it would connect just inside the midpoint of each wall since if anything I want the corner to lift before the ends. I'd have a person at each wall end to do the fine balancing as needed. Then basically walk the jack back a couple feet and set the wall down on some concrete blocks. That would be on the neighbor's property but I'll get approval from him. Once set firmly on blocks a while, remove the braced 2x10 so you could walk around the slab to install forms and do the pour easier. The brace shown on the top would remain from start to finish to help retain the right angle.

Am I forgetting anything?

EDIT: added picture of current sill plate.

EDIT 2: Good news. Inspector has approved me just moving them to wherever I wanted temporarily so this will be pretty easy now. I'll remove the sheathing and separate the walls so my son and I can just carry them. :)


texts: Should double glazing sit evenly in brick to brick window space?

texts:
I've just had double glazing installed and I'm not entirely happy, but it could be my expectations are set too high.

The picture below shows my new sash window for the front room bay window. This is a brick to brick installation in a Victorian house. From the front of the house the window looks fine, but inside the frame is not lined up evenly. The frame is only visible to the right of the window, the left side of the frame disappears into the wall. I imagined the window would line up in the middle?

Is this kind of issue expected in a 100 year old house which are off square? Or are there ways to make the window hole square so everything fits properly? Have the windows firm measured the window properly?


texts:
I'd like to install a new window to increase ventilation & install a new window a/c in this room as the long window in the picture doesnt open. The only way I'd get an ideal window placement is if I cut through the shed style roof. I have 2 options for locations but both require cutting either end of the shed roof.
The 1st pic would allow me to install a window of about 34"w. The 2nd  allows for a bigger window but am concerned removing the roof support.

How feasible is this project? Has this been done before? What do I need to be mindful of? What tools are best to use?


texts: Live and Neutral reversed: cable colours wrong or the socket tester wrong?

texts:
I have bought a house in Germany and there were some different color sockets in some rooms so we decided to change them.
I will now explain for just one socket not to confuse the matter further.
Switched off the electricity and tested (with electrical tester) that there is no electricity and then I replaced the socket nest.
In Germany the blue cable is supposed to be the Neutral and the black is supposed to be the Live/Hot wire. Double checked it just to be sure and installed the socket like this.
I decided to buy a Socket tester and test the socket anyway (I want to make sure all the sockets at home are without any faults) - I bought this one "Kaiweets HT106D socket tester pro".
When testing the tester showed "Live/Neutral Reverse".
This is weird. I connected the black cables(2) at L and the blue cables at N. And the tester says that the "Live/Neutral Reverse" is reversed.
I said okay, I will now reverse and connect the blue cables(2) to L and the black cables (2) to N (against the standard). And then the tester lights "Correct".
Here are some photos of the socket, installed with the wrong color wires on which the socket tester lights it is all correct:
The front of the socket, where is clear that the L is on left, N is on right and the ground in the middle:

The wiring after I reversed the cables and connected them against the logic (here they are visually wrongly connected)

The tester lighting correct, where the cables are connected against the logic (blue in L and black in N).

Can someone give me a an advice: should I believe the cable colours or the Socket tester lights?


texts:
I'm planning on adding a full bath to our basement, but I am wondering how short I can go with the bathroom door. The room itself will easily clear 80" tall, but the entry side wall is flush up against existing duct work.

The tallest door I can reasonably expect to fit would be 75", which is just shy of 78". Is this acceptable or could I run in to issues when I sell the house?

Looking at codes, it seems like egress doors are explicitly called out, and interior doors seem to be under looser guidelines.


texts: Cold air from gap underneath kitchen cabinets

texts:
My kitchen is next an exterior wall of my house. Unfortunately there is a constant flow of cold air coming from underneath the cabinets into the kitchen itself.

Here is a picture of the cabinets:

After taking a closer look, I realized that there is a 1" gap underneath the cabinets that seemed to be the source of the issue:

My guess is that the gap was left there because of the vent, but it's making the floor (and that whole area of the home) very chilly.

What is the best way to safely fill the gap (given the nearby vent) and prevent the flow of cold air?


texts: Why does my first floor thermostat also make my third floor baseboards turn on?

texts:
(Possibly related to this question but I do not have the expertise to diagnose at the level of the author of that question)
I moved into a new house recently that was billed as having three heating zones, one per floor. The home inspection did not turn up anything unusual, though the inspector really just made sure the boiler was running and he could feel heat on one floor.
After moving in a few days ago, my wife and I had a hard time sleeping the first night or two because it was so warm in our bedroom on the third floor! After some experimenting, I have discovered that the first floor thermostat seems to make the baseboards on the third floor run in addition to the ones on the first floor. The third floor thermostat will also make the third floor baseboards run, but not the first floor ones (I think -- haven't actually verified that).
I went down in the basement to follow the piping around and it all seems correct in that I didn't see any odd runs up to other floors off of the first floor run. The only common connection point I could find was what I assume to be the return.
So, this leads me to believe there is a wiring issue with the relays and/or pumps that control zones 1 and 3. I have attached photos of both sets of equipment. The third floor is hooked up to the R847A on the left, while the first floor is hooked up to the R845A on the (far) right.
Note the brown wiring that connects all three relays to each other. I don't know why this is here (as this is my first time dealing with baseboard heat, boilers, relays, and pumps) but my suspicion is that the issue lies here somewhere.

Below are the pumps that connect the boiler output to the various baseboard runs. Again, third floor is on the left and first floor is on the (far) right.
I've noticed there is an additional box (shown in the bottom left of the photo below) that the R847A also connects to. I'm not sure of its purpose. This is my second area of suspicion.

I realize nobody may be able to fully diagnose the issue from these photos, but I'd like to see if there is an easy answer before I call in a heating system specialist.
Thank you!


texts: How to connect cross bracing on rotated posts?

texts:
I'm adding X style cross bracing to an elevated playhouse to increase stability. The deck sits 8' up on joists, which are on two beams, which are on posts. Problem is, the posts are sorta in a V shape so the back two are rotated a bit. I'm not sure how to connect the cross bracing to the beams. Beams are 6"x6" and cross braces will be 2"x6".
You can see my 3 ideas below, but this is all new to me. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Option 1. Maybe I'm overcomplicating this. Do I just ignore the angle and bolt through with big washers?
Option 2. Create shims that make the the posts align. Seems like a good plan, but I don't have a miter saw. Also, is it bad to bolt through my posts?
Option 3. Nonconventional, but there are adjustable joist hangers that allow for skew/slope. I could use long structural screws, but concerned they might pull out.


texts: Trying to find a replacement door handle/knob

texts:
I bought a house, and two of the closets are missing the door handle/knob.  It's a mortise lock (old house), and every other interior door in the house has the same handle, so I'd like to not get one of those glass ones that seem widely available and instead get a matching replacement for consistency throughout the house.

I've browsed dozens of pages on amazon, Schlage, Baldwin, etc.

This is the hardware kit.  The only part missing is the handle:

Here is a door with the missing handle:


texts: Removing rigid copper pipe to install dishwasher

texts: I'm trying to install a new dishwasher, replacing the 20 year old one I currently have. I have a compression shutoff valve underneath the sink for the hot water water. It has two outputs, one going up to the faucet and the other going to the dishwasher. It's connected using rigid copper pipe. It seems I'm supposed to remove the copper pipe going to the dishwasher and install a stainless steel sheathed flexible tube instead. The problem is that I cannot seem to loosen the actual nut holding the rigid copper pipe to the dual outlet compression valve. It's green with oxidation, i'm assuming from the copper, and it seems to have some rigid white paste beneath the nut. I'm assuming this is pipe dope? I feel like if I were to turn any harder I could damage the thing. Any tips on a better way to get this loose. Am I missing something obvious?


texts: Installing Hammock Chair from Ceiling with Metal Joists

texts:
I’m mounting a hammock chair to my ceiling using 2 eye-bolt plates rated for 160 lbs max load. The plates came with 4 screws meant for wooden joists, but after drilling a pilot hole, I realized the apartment has metal joists.
Since I couldn’t find any info on how to properly mount anything heavy on a metal joist online, I was wondering if anyone here knows what I should do to properly mount the chair? I read about using metal-sheet screws or toggle screws, but since the metal joists are hollow, this doesn’t seem appropriate for a hammock chair (meant for light swinging, as it will be indoors)


texts: 4 black wires for light switch box, 3 white w/ Picture

texts: Was trying to replace light switch because old one was not aesthetically pleasing. Thought this was going to be easy as Ive done many before but was thrown off by so many black wires. Not sure what wire goes where and when I try to turn on the breaker it automatically trips back. Please help!!!


texts: Best practices - where to run new gas line?

texts:
I want to run a gas line from my meter to a grill on a deck I'm building.  Because of various outdoor obstructions, the easiest path is to run the line through my (mostly) unfinished basement.  In this picture we're facing the concrete foundation wall, the gas meter is outside and just to the left; to the right of the picture is the steel I-beam that bisects my house (the joists are 12' long and they overlap on top of the steel beam).  I've put a hanging wall to separate the basement into two halves, the room on the other side of that hanging wall is also unfinished except for the walls.

Is there a "best practice" for where, within that joist bay, to run the new gas line?  I was thinking that if I run it right next to the joist, it's going to be tricky when I have to drill a hole through the joist block (visible to the right), I could end up running into a nail that holds the block in place.  Is there any reason not to run the new pipe more or less down the middle of the joist bay?  I could put a 2x4 between joists to provide support.
Is there any danger with having those electrical wires right next to the pipe?  Would I need to provide some spacing, or if the wires rested gently on the pipe there would be no danger?


texts: Is it OK to leave this switch ungrounded?

texts: I am changing outlets in my house and the old outlet did not have a grounding screw. Is it necessary to ground? How unsafe is it? The box is plastic so I can't ground it to the box.


texts: Why does my GFCI outlet trip as soon as the breaker is turned on?

texts: I have an outlet feeding other outlets about 50 feet away. All the outlets are outdoor enclosed in a protective weather cover. Today I wanted to replace one of the receptacles with a GFCI so all the outlets are protected. I installed the wires coming from the power source to LINE and the wires going out to LOAD. As soon as I turned the breaker back on to test the GFCI receptacle, the button trips / shuts off. I have the wires connected to LINE and LOAD properly. Neutrals are connected together and ground is connected. If I only have the LINE wires connected and no LOAD then it works. But if I have the LOAD wires connected to the receptacle, then it trips as soon as I put the breaker back on. What can cause this and how do I go about troubleshooting the problem?


texts: Any way to eliminate smell from a vent stack

texts:
I'm adding a new full bath in the basement of a 3 story condo and I don't have where to join an existing vent (the sewer main is under the slab so I have no problem connecting the drainage) so I'l have to add a new vent stack from there to the outside.
So my question is if there is a way to eliminate that the smell should not come out from the vent so I could only come out with the pipe a little and would not have to build a pipe 3 stories high after exiting the building.
Someone told me about putting an upside down u on the way out, Does anyone know about it?
Thanks for any help


texts:
We'd like to hang a Coolaroo shade-sail over our elevated deck, but are uncertain, how to best attach it.

Deck is adjacent to the house's second floor, but the walls have no hooks and are covered with Hardieplank siding. What's the best way to install some feature (a hook or an "eye"), which will be able to withstand the substantial stresses the sail may apply to the rigging in the wind?

On the other side of the deck there are no walls at all -- it is circled by safety fence, but the posts are neither tall enough nor attached hard enough to withstand the above-mentioned stresses. I'm thinking of using longer ropes to attach to the trees beyond the deck's fence.

But the question of how to attach to the house remains...


texts: Can I clean out a GE dishwasher drain pump?

texts: I have a GE GDT530 dishwasher that just went out of warranty 2 months ago. Now it's starting to make crackling sounds when it's draining water and it sounds like there is some debris in the drain pump. So I was wondering if it's possible to clean out the drain pump on this dishwasher or will I have to replace the drain pump entirely?


texts: LED lights do not turn off completely? Why?

texts:
Just bought new flush mount ceiling LED lights.  the light in the hallway has 2 switches to it and this light does not completely turn off when flipping the switch off.  The tabs are always dimly lit.  Is this normal? Should we be concerned about fire?  Why does this happen?  Is the light defective?
Thanks


texts: Should I be concerned with my back flow valve pit filling with water?

texts:
I have never had foundation or ground water problems in my basement but I did have a sewar problem and as part of a recent replacment of that, I had a back flow valve installed that looks like this:

(source: a-to-zplumbing.com)

I have been periodically checking it, and recently I found that there were a couple inches of water in the pit.  It was perfectly clear with no odor. We recently had a thaw so I figured it was a little bit of ground water flowing under the foundation.  I checked it for a week or so after and observed the water level drop.

Today I opened it to find the valve almost completely submerged in water, though the water level was still about 12" below the floor.  We had quite a bit of rain the last week, however in order to rule out the valve itself leaking, I tried to shop-vac the water out.  I filled my shop-vac completely in a few seconds and water flowed back into the pit, which leads me to beleive that there is quite a bit of water underneeth my basement floor.  The water supply enters my house about a foot from this pit.

I do not see any other evidence of moisture anywhere on the basement floor.
My biggest concern is that water will fill the pit completely and flood my basement.

Is it normal to find this much water under a basement floor after wet periods and is there a possibility of the pit overflowing, or am I only noticing this now because I have a big hole in my floor?


texts: Need a wiring diagram for 4 way switch with source in centre and light on end

texts:
I currently have two lights in my porch at either end that are both controlled by  separate 3 way switch circuits.  At the middle door it a double box with the supply and two 3-way switches, from each switch is a 14-3 wire to another box on opposite ends of the porch with another 3-way switch.  From those switches is a 14-2 to each individual light.

How would I go about only having 3 switches and turning both lights on at the same time, or in other words i want to tie the two lights together and be able to turn them on/off from any one of 3 switches. I can easily go into the attic and add a wire between the two lights, adding a wire between boxes gets into drywall work.

Similar to the image but the light would have to be off either one of the 3-way switches in the diagram.


texts: What should I do about a frozen spigot pipe?

texts:
The picture isnt of my house but its similar. The ice is not in a radius around the main stack of ice also the ice is not around the value but goes to the bottom of the pipe. I can't hear any running water.  As for the interior of the house it is about 70 degrees inside i don't see any water leaking / dripping down the wall.

Is it possible for it to get worse even if it's not cold enough to freeze past the wall?


texts:
I'm planning on building a shower with a typical plastic shower pan liner: https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/8e45b9f6-39cd-4f9a-ba89-c86cd5071314/svn/oatey-shower-bases-pans-41631-64_1000.jpg. The walls will be water and mold resistant drywall with a roll-on waterproof membrane.

I'm trying to decide how the drywall will meet the plastic shower liner. Should I install the plastic shower pan liner first, then the mold resistant drywall so that water that might get to the drywall will "roll" onto the shower pan liner? Or should I plan on putting up the drywall first, then the shower pan liner taking care to seal the shower pan liner to the drywall so that no water gets between them?


texts: How to remove window wood trim to replace crank operator?

texts:
]3[]4
I have a broken casement window crank operator and needs to replace it, got the parts, but can't figure out a way to put it in. There are wood trims on the window which keeps me from reaching the screws for the operator, as shown in the picture. How should these wood trims be removed, so I can reach the screws to replace the operator? Thanks!


texts:
We just moved into a home built in 1998. The previous owners had a standard washing machine and looks like were using an electric dryer.

We have chosen to go with a gas dryer instead. There was a gas line there already so it made for an easy connection. My question is on the electrical part.

Right now the washer is on a 20amp circuit with terminates with a single 20amp outlet. The new washer states it needs 10amps.  The dryer states it needs 13 amps. Can I turn the single outlet into a double 20amp outlet? Is it okay to have both the dryer and washer on the same outlet/breaker?


texts:
As I posted in another question, I had wasps entering my fireplace exhaust in my backyard. When I turned the fireplace on, I got a distinct burning smell; and then it went away.

Then I saw them crawling into a small space between two bricks in my front overhang. So I sealed it up with silicon. The next day, I saw a dead wasp there.

Now, I have a feeling (not 100% sure) that I saw a wasp fly into that front overhang area, and not fly out. I'm concerned that there's a wasp nest, and that they're not dead yet.

How can I find out for sure? Do I need to call a professional? (I looked everywhere in my house, but I couldn't find any signs of them.)

And, how do I find their new entrance to the nest, if there is one and there is a nest?


texts: Are easily broken slate tiles an indication of poor quality?

texts:
I have bought a few boxes of slate tiles to be installed on my kitchen floor. They were on special (previously 6.5 dollars/sq ft, now 3.5/sq ft).

To my annoyance, some of the tiles broke easily when I unboxed them (three tiles out of 36 pieces so far). The guy at the shop said it's normal (he would say that wouldn't he!). How do I know if the tiles are of good quality? I wonder whether I have bought myself some cheap tiles that wouldn't last very long. Any opinions? Am I worrying too much? Or should I return the tiles?


texts: Are there any options for connecting into main stack for venting branch below waterline? Could I go up for a few feet with a with a wye join and then come back down? The reason for trying to come up with a solution to this is that I dont have access to the pipe above the waterline and the toilet connection and I'm trying to avoid running another pipe on the side of the house just to get venting for the basement bathroom.


texts:
The bed in question is a Viv Rae Nadia.

I assembled the bed, put the mattress on, and stored several things on the included shelves. Any sort of movement makes a squeaking noise through some parts of the frame. What can I do to dampen this noise?


texts: Adapting onto a Price-Pfister bathroom sink faucet with hidden Aerator

texts:
After weeks of research I've been unable to figure out what the thread size of a Pfister hidden aerator is.  I want to remove the aerator and screw on an "instant-off" aerator device.

The Pfister aerator thread size is wildly non-standard. The outside diameter of a removed aerator measures as .73", or 18.62mm.

So naturally, I figured the threads were 3/4" 27F, and I needed a 3/4" 27M adaptor to screw into it:

But that didn't work.  It's close, but it doesn't thread.

It seems as if the internal "hidden" threads inside the Pfister faucet MIGHT be MALE threads, with the threads on the removable aerator actually FEMALE 3/4" 27F.  If that's the case, it's virtually impossible to screw an adaptor in, because it doesn't seem that any adaptor would be made with female threads on the outside.

Anyone ever run into this?  Or have an idea what the actual thread size is supposed to be?

UPDATE:  According to Price-Pfister, the threading of the inside of the faucet is 3/4"-18F, so an aerator or aerator adaptor would need to have MALE threads of 3/4"-18M.  The problem is, 18M seems coarser than 27M, and if anything, the threads seem finer.  In any case, I don't think there's such a thing as an 18M-to-anything-adaptor?

The model number of the faucet is: Pfister Weller LG49-WRO


texts: Is it safe to cut throught a 70mm spruce beam with a Metabo jigsaw?

texts:
I have this jigsaw: Metabo Ste 90 SCS  (610 watts).

So far, I'm using it to cut 1cm to 2cm thick wood, and it's a great tool.

I know that the right tool to cut this beam would probably be a miter saw, but I don't plan to buy one for just a few cuts.

I am not looking for the accuracy of cuts for this job.

I have seen that there are 10 cm blades, but I'm wondering if this is safe to put long blades on a powerful jigsaw, to cut thick - and possibly wet - wood. Some beams are so wet that their weight is almost twice the weight of dry ones.

So here what I fear could happen:

violent kickback at some random point
blade breaking inside the beam
burning or damaging the motor,


texts: Whats the best way to patch a 1.5" hole in a poured foundation wall?

texts:
I need some expert advice here. I inherited a house that has a pool and a shed. The electric to both the pool and shed pass through the foundation of the house underground through what looks like PVC conduit. I recently noticed that the conduit, where the wires protrude, is leaking water. I haven't noticed this all summer but now that the winter is here and the ground is frozen, water is finding a way into this conduit.

I have a temporary solution to capture the water into a plastic tote using a make-shift gutter down spout extension that is catching the water and storing it in the tote so it doesn't make a mess in the basement. The conduit extends about 3" to 4" on the inside of the basement wall, so wrapping a sock around it and catching with the spout extension into a tote seems to work and not make a mess. However, I'm looking to permanently fix this issue, most likely in the spring.

So, if I dig up where I think the wires and conduit enter through the foundation, I would like some idea on how I can patch this hole. I've read about a myriad of solutions and one being hydraulic cement. My research says that the hole needs to be very clean and lightly damp for the cement to make the best bond.

For a more permanent solution I want to remove the pvc and conduit from the hole in the foundation, clean it up and patch it in the late spring. My concern is that this size hole is too big for hydraulic cement, but my inexperienced mind just tells me that. Can anyone just provide me with some knowledge and experience and let me know what the right solution is, if it is hydraulic cement and what else I should know and or do for preparing the application of it?

Thanks for your help!


texts: How can I convert a 240V dryer outlet to two branch circuits?

texts:
I'm converting a former laundry area into a bar/coffee area. There's a relatively new 240V, 40A circuit that is now unused, so I'd like to repurpose it for 120V service.

I'm hoping to run 1/2 of it to a new 20A GFCI, with the load side then going down to another 20A receptacle below the new counter (as shown on the photo).

The other leg I'd like to run from the GFCI box (i.e., using the GFCI box as a junction, there's plenty of room) to an adjacent room where I also need a new pair of 20A receptacles (a work bench).

I know I'll need to replace the 40A ganged breaker with two 20A breakers.

So I have two questions, both in terms of code and general sanity:

Can I use the GFCI box like this as a junction for the other side of the 240V circuit that will be run to the other room? The junction would be accessible and visible, just not obvious because it would be behind the GFCI rather than in a dedicated junction box.
Is it ok that the two new 20A circuits share a common neutral and ground wires from the junction back to the breaker panel? The wire was intended for 40A service, so I'm not afraid of the load, just concerns that there may be a rule that you can't do this.


texts: Is it safe to use a battery charger to test the capacity of a non-rechargeable battery?

texts: I have this battery charger at home. It has a voltage test function. I also have a lot of non-rechargeable batteries lying around. Is it possible and safe to use the charger's test function on non-rechargeable AAA or AA batteries?


texts: How should I decide which flooring underlayment is best?

texts:
There's a few options of underlayment in local stores, fairly cheap and more expensive (based on cork, I guess). What are the differences, and what factors should I consider to make a choice? I'm planning to install laminate floor in a 2nd floor room, on the plywood subfloor.

Thanks!


texts: Can I safely disable a three way fan switch to use for providing ground to remote three way box?

texts:
I have a bit of a unique electrical situation that I am dealing with.  My house was wired with several three way lighting boxes that included a switch for a fan which is not used.  I am working on transitioning to zwave controlled dimmers for LEDs and these switches require a neutral conductor to function properly.  Since the end of line switch does not have a neutral present, I need to get a neutral to it somehow.

My thought is that I can disable the unused fan circuit and instead use the wiring that was going to that switch to carry a neutral to the box.  I believe that this only requires removing and capping the common line (three way switch common line, not common ground) on both ends of the switch as this would isolate the switches from both line and load.  I should then be able to use either traveler (preferably the no longer black coded white one) as a neutral by adding it to the neutral nut.

Are there any problems with this setup that anyone can see?  Alternately, are there any alternatives that anyone knows of such as wiring a battery powered remote switch in place of cannibalizing the unused circuit that would make this unnecessary?

More technical details in response to comments:
It is actually two parallel 3 way switches that are for both a fan and a light.  They are all on the same breaker using a shared common neutral and shared common ground at the main light switches.

The 4 conductor to the ceiling fixture from the main switches is a 4 conductor with black for light load and red for fan load (capped at fixture since there is no fan).

There are two switches in the main box, both wired to interrupt between line and load in a 3 way configuration with both lines to the remote switches being 4 conductor lines with white coded to black and red as the two travelers and black as the common line/common load.

It is basically two of these, one interrupting black load (light) one interrupting red load (fan/unused), but with fused grounds and neutrals across both loops.

What I am planning for the fan circuit is this:

I'm not sure if I also need to remove the common ground or do anything with the isolated traveler that isn't attached to anything anymore.  I'm not sure at what point (if ever) it is considered just a 14 gauge wire in my wall rather than part of the electrical system.  It is also worth noting that on my diagram, the load is not actually attached to line at the fixture, but rather is capped with the neutral line only actually used at the fixture for the light circuit.


texts: Tracing a dead thermostat wire conductor in wall

texts:
My home was rewired and remodeled in 2014 but I am finding out that the electrician did not run a new thermostat wire from my upstairs thermostat. I have a newer-looking 4-conductor wire coming out of the wall upstairs, which goes up into the attic and downstairs into a wall. There are two old thermostat wires coming out of the wall in the basement - a 3 conductor and a 2 conductor wire. It appears the newer wire from upstairs was spliced to these two older wires somewhere along the way, but I don't have 4 live conductors in the basement. I connected a 9V battery to the conductors upstairs and tested them in the basement with a multimeter, and found I have only 3 live conductors down there. The black conductor in the thermostat wire upstairs either is not connected or something happened to the splice inside the wall.
I picked up a cheap wire tracer with the hopes that I could connect it to the black conductor and trace the wire in the wall until I no longer heard the tone, but it seems like I still get a weak tone because it is being picked up by the other wires. Is there any way to make this work the way I'm thinking? I can't think of any other ways to trace it.
Any ideas appreciated, thanks!


texts:
I'm currently installing a HALO LED SLD405930WHR (EATON)  i bought the Lutron CL dimmer SCL153PRWH which is compatible according to EATON website.
The HALO LED has 2 cables white and black, the jbox has 3 cables: white, red and black. I use a test pen and black is voltage.
When i plug HALO LED black cable to jbox black and HALO LED white cable to jbox white and there is no dimmer installed (dimmer socket cables not connected) HALO LED goes on.
As soon as i connect the dimmer, the dimmer burns and there is a short circuit. The dimmer socket has 2 cables black and red.
Not sure which cables to use in the lamp or dimmer.

My guess is that lamp should be using jbox black and red and same as dimmer. Will use a new dimmer, but want to check which one to use before i burn them.


texts:
I have a mobile home that is wired for a 90 amp furnace. but didn't have the furnace.. so I purchased one which is  60 amps.
could I take the wires for the 90 amp furnace run it from the 90 amp breaker into the main lug in a subpanel and use a 60 amp breaker for this other furnace?


texts: How do I reinforce the ends of 2x8s that are sistered to 2"x5" (actual size) joists?

texts:
I want to strengthen the floor of my office.
Currently the joists are 2"x5" (actual size).

I want to put a 2"x8" (1.5"x7.5" actual size) which will double the existing joists.
I will have to reduce the height of the new joists from 7.5" to 5" at the ends.

Will I have to reinforce the end to prevent the beam from splitting?
What could I use to reinforce the ends?

After all your answers and comments, i want to put a draw to illustrate the final solution.
A good idea is obvious afterthought, but not before!


texts: Installing a switch for a water heater's lower element

texts:
I'd like to install a switch for the lower element of my water heater.  I haven't even looked inside the water heater yet, but I'm a little confused about what the best way to go about doing this would be.  When I open it up, I'm assuming that it's going to be easy to understand -- the element is probably just pigtailed off with wire nuts or connected to a bus.  Getting the switch to work should be easy: shut off power, run the hot wire through a switch, reconnect power.

The hard part is making the whole thing look respectable.  I've only come up with one option in that regard:

take apart the 240v receptacle, pigtail the +/- 120v lines
run one of the pigtails to a switch directly above/below the receptacle
run the two new lines (one being the switched leg) into another 240v receptacle box
drill hole in metal plate on top of water heater to accommodate the second cord
put the bottom element on the switched cord

That's a lot of work just to make the lower element switched, though, so if anyone can think of a more reasonable alternative, I'm all ears!


texts: I have a wall I need to insulate and have only 2 inches to work with, so I am planning to use some kind of insulated panel board and want to maximize the insulation. Cost is no object, so if it is very expensive, that is ok. What is the best possible option? Note that I do need something that is commonly commercially available quickly, so I can't use some custom solution like aerogel or anything like that.


texts: How do we extend, stabilize, and give a finished look to an outside faucet that is attached to the house?

texts:
We have three issues we want to resolve regarding an outside faucet.

We want to extend the faucet about 4" from the siding,
We want to stabilize the faucet because it is bouncing around in the pipe hole,
We want to give it a finished look when done, because it is on the front of the house.

What product/products should we use to accomplish all three, and how should we install those products?


texts:
Thank you in advance for your advice!

My project is to install a 220v-240v NEMA 14-50 outlet at my house’ s attached garage, which is nearly 65 ft/one way, from the house’ s main electrical panel / newer 4 wires 200amp installation, Grounding is done via 2 ground rods+to the copper main water line.  The panel’ s current highest load is a 2-pole 40amp / HVAC, the house is under 1900 sq. ft.

I had access to left-over wires; THWN-2 THHN AWG #8 & AWG #6, so From the main electrical panel thru the attic, I utilized the left over AWG #8 (2hot+1Neutral) and AWG #6 (Ground), via EMT & flex conduit secured to the rafters / 4 ft intervals.

However, rather than sticking to the original plan and finishing with a NEMA 14-50 outlet at the attached garage to conclude the project by installing a 2-pole 40amp circuit breaker at the main electrical panel, I am considering to utilize the pulled wires along with a freebie panel, Cutler Hammer BR816L125RP rated at 125amp,  and turn it into a sub panel at the attached garage’s area, and then install a NEMA 14-50 outlet / fed with a 2-pole 40amp circuit breaker at the sub panel.  Given that the freebie panel is equipped with only one Bar, I will isolate Neutral from Ground by installing a Ground Bar and connecting ground wire to it / AWG #6.

The reason for the subpanel installation is to maximize the use of the AWG #6 & #8 wires that I have greatly appreciated pulling thru the flex conduit and account for possible future modification, as well as to install couple service outlets in the garage area near the planned subpanel’ s area without having to pull wires thru the finished garage walls from other service outlets.

Given the above information, including the AWG #6 & #8 wires’ length; What is the maximum breaker size that I can utilize at the main electrical panel to feed the garage’ s subpanel, i.e can I install a 50amp or 60amp 2-pole , or even higher rated circuit breaker? While still installing NEMA 14-50 outlet / fed with a 2-pole 40amp circuit breaker at the sub panel

Appreciate your expertise and honest opinion!


texts: Can I use TC-ER Cu Awg 4-3 THHN for a shed sub-panel?

texts:
I'm installing a subpanel in a shed and my buddy has 150 ft of leftover TC-ER Cu Awg 4-3 THHN w/ #8 GND, which he got here: https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/4-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground
Is there any issue running that from my main panel, thru the attached garage, into my attic, out thru the exterior wall, down the wall into the ground, along the ground, and up into the shed?
I am hoping to run the interior sections without conduit (though I could) and the only conduit during the exterior wall (maybe studs?) and underground sections.
The other points are:
125-150ft from main to sub,
70 amp breaker,
2 grounding rods 6 ft apart,
No neutral bonding


texts: How can I find an interior wall from the crawl space?

texts: I want to run some component cables from one room to another by fishing down the wall into crawlspace and then back up the other wall.  When I'm under the house there's no way to tell where the inside of the wall is.  I've read about the trick where you pull up the edge of carpet and drill a pilot hole but in my case I just have tile so that doesn't really work for my application.  Whats a good way to tell where to drill from my crawl space?


texts:
My ceiling light is not turning on, not sure why? I switched off the circuit breaker where it is getting power from and have re attached the wires to the light fixture. Black wire , white wire and ground wire. When I turn the power on from breaker and I have a electrical current pen detector along the switch light and the the inside where the bulb goes in a light goes on my pen, that means there is power/ electricity.
I'm putting in the right bulb but still not turning on. The wires are wrapped and topped off with cap. But not sure what the problem is ? Can it be the light fixture itself? I have had several instances from lightning and rain in the past shut off my power in the past, can it be from that ?
Thanks in advance for advice


texts: Problem hanging ceiling lamp with cord set (from Ikea)

texts:
Trying to hang a ceiling lamp and I can't figure it out.

It's the type where you hook the connector to the ceiling, then push the "cup" (which conceals all the wiring) up to the ceiling.

But there doesn't seem to be a way of fixing the cup to the ceiling, it always dangles by about a centimetre or two. The instructions (pictures only) seem to suggest that you simply have to push it up and I suppose the tension in the cord maybe holds it in place, but it always slides down a little bit.

A suggestion I received from their [Ikea's] telephone help line was that maybe amount of cord coiled up inside the cup was too much and was pushing it out (and I should shorten the cord), but I've even tried pulling it all out so there is virtually no wire left inside, with the same results.

I've tried to diagram my problem below... The blue cup should be against the ceiling, but I can't see any way of holding it in place except the grip the cup has on the cord but that doesn't seem to be strong enough.

Update

I happened to be in Ikea again a few weeks ago, and noted that not even they can hang the things properly!


texts:
Back-ground:

The wiring at the residence dates back a century - almost. The old wires were wound in cloth, and are pretty thick aluminium/tin-coated copper. The old energy meter (one with a marked wheel that rotates; mfr. Contimeter) was recently replaced with one of these new-fangled electronic digital ones. My electric load is unchanged. Yet the new meter appears to register easily double the old one.

Body:

Typical appliances that form the electric load are as follows -

Ceiling Fans
Lamps (Incandescent, Fluorescent, and Compact Fluorescent)
Television (old-fashioned CRT type)
Computer (with a similarly old-fashioned CRT monitor)
Micro-wave oven
Vacuum cleaner

The electrician says the old wiring should be replaced by newer 2.5 sq.mm wires; I believe this used to be called a 5/22 wire. He further recommends a multi-strand wire rather than one with a single core. What little I recall is that a multi-strand conductor is suited for HF/VHF and such applications. The supply line from the utility company is 240V@50cps.

Question:

Is a multi-strand conductor better suited for house-hold wiring than a single-core?


texts: What hard material is behind the plaster on interior walls in my 1920s apartment?

texts:
I moved into an old (c. 1920s) rental apartment building in the northeastern US (Philadelphia) and would like to hang pictures and secure some furniture.

I tried putting nails in several places around the house, on internal and shared walls, but the nails only go about 0.5" deep into the plaster (I cannot find any studs). There seems to be a hard surface behind that spot. I had no such issues with external walls.

What material is most likely to be found around 0.5" into the wall?


texts: Mendota FV44i LP Gas fireplace insert won't stay on, it cycles off after awhile, then on

texts: I have it set on standing pilot, which stays lit.  The unit is only 2 years old and was working fine a few weeks ago.  Temperature outside is above 50 degrees, and our main gas hot air heat is working fine.  No soot build up around thermocouple which was my first guess.  The remote control does not seem to be sending out any signal when this is happening either. The fire seems to go out at random times, sometimes after 15 seconds or less, or after several minutes, but will come back on after less than a minute later usually.   Any other ideas?


texts: Adding ground..."bare armored ground": suggestions

texts:
I have a 1940's house. Modern panel  and sub panel feeding cloth clad cable and knob and tube. Very hard to access crawl space or inside wall because wood ship lap over skip sheathing, shingles over skip sheathing outside.  I wish to add grounds to a couple outlets near the panel and am happy to see the code now allows this. (I did it earlier with a green thnn, exposed, to ground rod, and know this is not right.)

I see "bare armored ground" cable suggested, and see this was used at both main and sub panel here. The only cable I can find on the net has monster conductor... like gauge 2,4,6... crazy big.
The existing panels use an armored cable 1/2" at main. 1/4" at sub, with a conductor that looks to be about 12gauge max.

Can I find something like this? Should I just buy 1/2" armored cable and pull the white and black wires out?
Will this type of solution be any better if routed into the panel and bus bar or (as appears from the code) just as good attached properly to ground rod?


texts: Is this brick knee wall tied in to the main wall?

texts: We would like to remove the L-shaped brick "knee wall" in the picture on the left. The picture on the right shows the seam between the knee wall and the main wall of the house. Is the knee wall likely tied into the house and the removal would require an elaborate repair or is it "free standing"? Is there a minimally invasive way of finding out?


texts: How to stop a gland nut rotating too freely

texts:
The stop-cock to my house has been locked solid, but after diligently applying lubricant twice a day for a week it now rotates freely and works fine.

I now have a different problem, how do i lock the gland nut in the correct position? If I tighten the gland nut to the point where it no longer rotates freely then the stop-cock no longer turns, if I loosen the gland nut to the point where the stop-cock turns freely then the gland-nut turns with the shaft and quickly tightens itself to the point where both the gland nut and the stop cock won't turn.

Access is very limited, if I loosen to the gland nut too much it leaks, the whole stop-cock is covered with so much oil that loctite won't stick, and I don't want to risk smearing any plumbers mait on it for fear that I'll end up locking the shaft up rather than just the gland nut.

Any suggestions?

UPDATES
The gland packing isn't actually leaking (unless I release the gland nut completely). The problem is that the gland nut is either freely rotating or locked solid. (basically the friction between the shaft and the gland nut is greater than the friction between the gland-nut and the body of the stop cock. A photo isn't really practical - the stopcock is at the bottom an 18 inch hole in the ground, most of the work I've done has been by touch only!

My solution so far has to been to hold the gland nut in place with a spanner the other end of which can be jammed against the side of the hole the stopcock is in. This holds the nut in the right position, the gland doesn't leak and I can turn the tap on or off without problems. This is a great temporary fix, but I don't want to leave my spanner down the hole, and it's very easy to knock it out of place unless I've very careful.


texts: I have vinyl flooring in the bathroom that has started to curl up a bit at the edge. It was suggested to me that I use contact cement to fix it. The problem is that there is not enough curl to allow space for me to get at the sub floor or the underside of the vinyl flooring in order to apply the cement. Do I need to rip up more of the floor to expose enough surface area? If so, how can I do that in a controlled manner?


texts: Is it feasible to store adequate thermal solar heat overnight?

texts:
I'm considering a passive solar radiant heating installation in the Chicago area and was wondering if it would be feasible to store enough water/energy to support heating for most of the night.  The house already has a gas central furnace, and can serve as backup, but the winter bills have been as high as $300-400 (for about 300 to 400 therms) during last year's expensive gas rates.

Roughly how much water might be needed to keep ~2000 sqft heated when it's 0 outside overnight in a below average insulated house?  Orders of magnitude would be good enough of an estimate.  I'm really just looking to understand if this is feasible.  If this would require a basement swimming pool, obviously it's not.

Also, since the PEX would be installed on the unfinished basement ceiling, I'm a bit concerned about the basement heating up too much.  I assume there are ways to shield the basement from the radiant heat via some form of heat reflectors under the PEX?


texts: Why is there a white wire connected to multiple black wires in my light box?

texts:
I have a total of four receptacles a ceiling fan and a light switch. My line voltage comes in from the first receptacle, then comes out at the ceiling fan, then is wire nutted to the three other receptacles and the light switch at the ceiling. I have a total of four 12/2 wires sticking out the ceiling where the fan used to be.

When I took the fan down There was one neutral wire wired to all of the hots I believe. Would the neutral come from the switch or somewhere else? The light switch controls the ceiling fan and three of the four receptacles.


texts: Removing Pool Stairs From In Ground Pool

texts:
I just purchased a home (well back in Feb) and this is the first year of having a pool, and I am attempting to remove the side stairs so I can cover the pool for winter.

My stairs look exactly like the ones in this video, and I removed the bolts just like in the video.  Problem I have is that the stairs are NOT budging when I push, pull, twist or anything.

Is there any other tricks/tips to removing the stairs?  I was thinking today, I could tap with a hammer to see if it would "loosen" the rail from the ground, but that is about the only thought I have on how to do such.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycBuPl992Sw


texts:
Photos & more explanation here:

Sprinkler System Album
Installed Box w/ Description

I recently paid a lawncare company to move my sprinkler box ... I was busy with work, patio was being installed, and I hadn't thought ahead far enough about sprinkler system - so it was a rush job done by a company recommended by a friend.

In anycase, they did a horrible job. They installed it directly into the clay muck without any drainage, and I couldn't get to anything in it - water wouldn't drain, started to smell rancid. I just dug it out completely ... It's still completely dug up.

So, I've got some gravel to put into the hole, 4x concrete pavers to put down - a box base to put on top of the pavers, and a box to put on top of the base.

However, this clay soil is SO DENSE, that any water stuck in this stuff is really not going to drain off - so if i put gravel in the bottom, then the water is probably just going to sit in the gravel underneath  and never drain off into the surrounding ground ...

I also realized that putting a bunch of gravel in right there against the side of the house without some kind of valve/drain to move it away from house, may cause more water to be pushed up against the side of the house and potentially causing issues with basement (we already have issues with basement & water).

So I'm looking for ideas to do a really good job with the drainage. I thought about putting a pipe in the gravel, and running it out - but at some point, it's going to need to come back up to the surface ... and without some special kind of valve the pipe will fill up, but nothing will push the water out through the pipe against gravity.


texts: How to clean cooling fins on already installed AC unit?

texts:
I just installed my window AC unit and then opened it up to discover that the cooling fins have quite a bit of dust caked on it.  The dust looks sort of like papier mache and is sticking to the fins (a vacuum isn't pulling most of the dust off).  I think this happened last year when I wasn't able to clean the filter soon enough and a lot of dust got through and got stuck to the condensation on the fins.

How can I clean this without removing my AC unit?  Because of some undesirable features of the windows in my apartment, taking out and putting back in the AC unit is quite a laborious and time-consuming process.  I've used foam cleaner before, but only when the AC units weren't installed so that I could hose them down.  Are there foam cleaners I can use on an installed unit without making a mess?


texts: Are molds dangerous to health if they are not in my own apartment?

texts:
I need a help to decide if I will move out from this building because of mold and health risks. Is it dangerous to live in a buliding in which the hallway is full of mold? I've been reading about mycotoxins flying in the air, but I don't understand if there is a threat to health for me in a nearby apartment (without mold).

Here are the pictures of walls in a hallway of building. There are really lot of mold stains. But to repeat, there are not in my apartment. All of this mold appeared in just two days, during floods in the Balkans.


texts:
I have this sink in my laundry room, and it started water-leaking a few days ago.

After checking it seemed to me that the joint part between the sink hole and the pipe was a gasket, which was supposed to be air-tight sealed but failed to hold up - water didn't flow down the pipeline, it oozed out from surrounding area of the joint.

I took down the pipe and noticed it says: "c4 CRN tubular f409 1-1/2". I looked up online but didn't find the replacement of the gasket for this pipe.

Do you agree with my diagnosis? Can anyone know where I can find a gasket
replacement for this type of pipe?

The pipe, the gasket and the sink hole are like below:


texts: Is there a way to mount a crystal ball on a stair post finial?

texts:
I would like to make my own design finials for the bottom and top posts that hold my stair banister.  I found 4-1/2" crystal balls that I would like to mount on top of a wooden plate that goes on top of the post and the plate is just a little wider than the post.

Is there any way to attach the crystal ball to the post?  Can I somehow drill a hole in it and stick a dowel of some sort in it whose other end would go into the wood?


texts:
Had water overflow into bedroom and closet. New laminate floor removed.
Concrete floor has glue strips from another flooring that is sticky in some
places. Will thoroughly clean with as little water as possible

Q. When all cleaning is done and floor dries for a week, Can I seal the concrete and begin covering? I know the floor will not be completely dry in a week.

I am thinking of painting the floor or trying the paper floor as water
seems to be a problem 3rd time, no children. Is Dry Lock or Bone Dry best as I
have serious allergies.
Thanks


texts: How do I fix this hole in 1960's stucco exterior wall?

texts:
I have recently bought a new home and there is this 150mm diameter hole left in the exterior wall.  Looks like this is where the rangehood was once vented.   Talk about poor workmanship.

How do you recommend I go about fillng it?


texts: 5800MICRA Transmitter in Door with Transom

texts:
I'm installing a home security system based around Honeywell products.  I'd like to use 5800MICRA recessed transmitters for all windows/doors to maintain a clean install.  Attached is a picture of my front door during the construction of the home (the home is now finished; pre-drywall picture provided to give insight into the interior of the wall).

What is the best way to install the 5800MICRA into this entry?  Obviously, I don't want to drill up into the transom panels.  Perhaps put the transmitter down into the door and the magnet on the jamb?  Into the side of the door frame, above the windows in the transom?  Not even sure if that would evacuate the dual panel glass panels?


texts: I am trying to remove some outdated, and possibly poorly laid out plumbing to create a new setup for a washer/dryer and sink. The current setup has a brass drain line a few feet above the ground and both the sink and washer feed an ejector pump that pushes up to the drain line.  I am thinking about scraping the existing brass up to the T that goes to the pump and then relocating the laundry to the right wall using PVC. I have included a photo of the existing setup plus a really rough drawing of what I was thinking.  I was hoping someone could let me know if I have any major design flaws in my drawing. Thanks in advance for the help and I look forward to both the good and bad feedback!


texts: Does a DMM resistance reading between lugs on an AFCI breaker indicate failure?

texts:
An AFCI breaker was removed from my load center.  While in service, the breaker would immediately trip when reset.  Out of the panel, when in the off position, the resistance between L1 and N lugs of the breaker is like 370 ohms.
Am I missing something, or is this clear cut internal failure of the breaker?  L1 was successfully being broken when the breaker tripped.


texts: What happens when two separate circuits are connected to a 120/240v breaker?

texts: After a kitchen remodel, my 1650 W microwave was plugged into a dedicated outlet connected to a 120/240 v circuit breaker(not tandem).  Another circuit with four kitchen outlets is connected to the same breaker. My question is whether either circuit will ever be exposed to the full potential 240 volts, or whether the circuits are necessarily limited to 120 volts because they are separate.  After only a few days, the microwave plugged into the dedicated line died.  I am wondering if this is because it was exposed to the higher voltage or some other reason.  A label in the machine says it should never be used on a circuit with more than 120 volts. Do I need to get the electrician to make changes or did the microwave die of natural causes?


texts: Why would a rough in pipe be under the concrete?

texts:
I'm planning to install a three piece bathroom in the basement. We have 2.5" and 3.5" rough in pipes sticking out, while 2" pipe was fully in the concrete. I had to break the floor to see if it was actually a pipe cap.
We are not the first owners, so we don't know why contractors buried the 2" pipe like that. Is this a normal thing to do? Could it be cause previous owner wanted only 2 piece bathroom? As well do I need to make sure all pipes are connected and vented under the concrete or must it have been done correctly under the code anyways? We are in Canada.

My related post

Pics:

Thank you!


texts: How can I run cables along a concrete wall?

texts:
I am living in a house with concrete walls (no attic, no basement) and I want to run Cat5e or Cat6 Cable from the router which is downstairs to my office which is upstairs. Right now running cables through the walls is not an option.

previously I have been using these little nail things with a bracket on them to hold the cables down, but they tend to fall out, so that is not a useful option.

What is the best way to run ethernet cable so it stays in place and not spend too much money


texts:
I'm building a small floating wall about 3.5' wide. almost 8' tall. It will be 'floating' 8" away from the ceiling, floor, and perpendicular wall via 1/4" steel pipe connected to floor flanges. It will look like this:

-------------------------------
      ---            ---    | |
       |              | <---|-|--- 1/4" steel pipe +
     --------------------   | |    floor flanges
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |--|| |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |    'Floating'    |   | |<-- perpendicular wall
     |       wall       |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |--|| |
     |                  |   | |
     --------------------   | |
       |              |     | |
      ---            ---    | |
-------------------------------

I can easily screw into the ceiling and perpendicular wall. But I'd like to avoid drilling into the floor as future owners may want to remove this and patching holes in floors is a pain (as opposed to holes in sheetrock).

I was initially going to use rubber pads under the ones on the bottom and hoping there'd be enough tension to cause it to grip solid.

But given this is an entry way wall, I can see someone large grabbing the edge of the wall to put on their shoes or something and worry about that lower outer leg pushing out.

Is there any sort of adhesive I could use that would give the bottom plates more rigidity...but easily be removable in the future?

I'm thinking some industrial size version of those 3M 'snot' adhesives they use on hooks where they are very adhesive, but can be pulled off in the future. (Come to think of it, maybe 3M does make large versions of those already?)


texts: 18 inch lag screw protruding from stud supporting 20lbs

texts:
I  need advice on how to keep a 48" diameter  "cat exercise wheel" axle made from 3/4" pvc pipe free floating on an  [18" lag screw] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZZJCB4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn?&tag=rnwff-20)  that I'll screw 3" into the stud in the wall, affixed  so the 15" deep cat exercise wheel spins in place but doesn't move too much from side to side?
(picture a 20lb  price is right wheel spinning on a bolt coming from the wall)
The 18" lag screw  is  only partially threaded so i can't screw a bolt on each side of the wheel to keep it in place.

I went with an  18" lag screw to hold up the wheel & cat (~20lbs max)  to minimize the footprint of the structure .
How  do I address concerns about the daily movement on the bolt from use of  the cat wheel to keep the bolt from coming out of the wall?
The  design had to be sub-$50 and super easy as my cat may not even use this wheel so I can't do the more expensive designs that include plywood, etc.
Thanks


texts: My parent place come with non-integrated CFL fixture. Over the year, some of the socket, ballast and bulbs are out. I wondering if I should go to replace all of them to integrated CFL fixture. Is there any advantage non-integrated CFL over integrated CFL?


texts:
First and foremost, please my ignorance as I'm new to the whole DIY thing. I bought a cheap set of drill bits, munched through them like butter, and so have now decided to make the investment into a proper selection. Happy to spend some more money on top-notch stuff.

My understanding is that to be well-rounded, I will want 3 sets:

Cobalt drill bits with a 135 degree tip for metal drilling
HSS tipped brad point drill bits with pilot point type things for wood
drilling
Carbide tipped (or diamond?) bits for tiles, brick and
concrete drilling.

Is this correct?

Does a titanium coating added to cobalt drill bits make a big difference; my understanding is it wears off quickly.

Secondary question is what to look for when buying impact-ready screwdriver bits. Common sense says I should look for cobalt drill bits to ensure they don't get munched up. Does a titanium coating make a difference here?

Availability of quality bits here in Bangkok is limited. I have found one company which sells Irwin bits. Are these considered quality bits? Or do they offer little more over brands like DeWalt?

Thanks,
Rob

--- PS comments

For metal drilling, I feel TPP bits would be a great purchase.
Thoughts?
For wood drilling, I feel Irwin bits would be a great
purchase. Thoughts?
Still looking for the masonry bits.


texts: What kind of caulk should I use for sealing windows to drywall?

texts: I installed new vinyl windows and now need to caulk them to the drywall of the window boxes on the interior side. What kind of caulk should I use? I've generally been using a nice silicone caulk, but it's not paintable and I anticipate eventually repainting the window boxes. If I use latex caulk, that'll work for repainting, but the old windows used latex caulk and it was brittle as a pretzel stick by the time I removed it.


texts: Black and white wires coming out of wall are both hot

texts: Our den has a switch that does not seem to operate anything in house.  There’s not a ceiling light in room and it does not affect the four outlets in the room.  It runs from a 15 A circuit in the breaker box.  I decided to remove the switch and use the wire to power six can lights I installed in the ceiling.  They are smart lights and I have a smart switch to operate them.  I hooked one of the can lights to the wires connecting black to black, white to white, ground to ground but nothing happens.  I used a non-contact volt meter on the wires and both wires turned it red.  Not sure what to do from here?


texts: Help! Large gaping on newly installed solid bamboo floors

texts:
Im in a dilemma with flooring.

We had our old laminate flooring removed and replaced with solid strand woven click lock bamboo. We used what we though was a reputable company, they had insurance, good reviews on yelp, etc etc.

Installation was completed 11/16(Saturday). The next week, we saw gaps in certain areas- hallway. I contacted the company I was working with and they gave me the whole "wood expands/ contracts/ maybe heat issues" talk. I explained that I understood and that there was always air circulation in our apartment and that I didn't believe it was due to temperature SO fast after the installation. Mind you, the wood had acclimated after delivery in our home for at least a week.

They came back exactly a week after, on 11/23 to repair the hallway gap.

^Hallway 11/22/19 After Installation completed on 11/16 and gaps showed^

Just days after the repair, the same gaps appeared in the. EXACT same place! It also got bigger.

I believe the company did not properly interlock the wood pieces.

Any advice? The company is not nudging from saying its a 'heat/ expansion" issue, but its highlight suspicious to me that the gaps happened so fast and in the same area.

^ Hallway on 11/30 after the repair^ gaps are very big- measured over 1cm.

They also never repaired the gap in one of the bedrooms, which has now gotten worse. I am being polite and trying to get them to come back and acknowledge that this was an installation issue.

Thoughts? Is this shoddy installation? Or am I crazy?

What steps can I take? I already contacted our insurance but this wont be covered because its would be a "workmanship" issue. I may need to have another company/ some else else look out it but thats $$$ on top of everything spent.

Thank you!


texts:
I need to repaint my wooden mailbox post.

When I first moved in to my house, the previous owner had let the paint all but come off.  I sprayed it white, with Rust-Oleum spray paint, as that is what "everyone" said in articles on the Internet.  It looked great for a few years.  However, it only took a couple of years to wear.  four years later, it is just a web of cracks and the paint is flaking off.

I live in Virginia, just miles from the Atlantic Ocean.  We get all the weather here.  Hot, cold, humidity, rain, snow, etc.  I assume the cracks are from the wood expanding and contracting from the moisture and temperature swings.

I already bought another can of spray paint and was going to sand the paint off.  However, I am wondering if I should be using primer, or even a different type of paint.

What should I do?


texts: Will #2 copper THHN be sufficient cable to run to the subpanel?

texts:
I have a 200 Amp Main panel.  I have an outbuilding 150 ft away in which I need to install a sub-panel.
I proposed to install a 200 amp sub-panel so if sometime in the future we choose to get a separate meter for the barn and increase the power supply.
I will have two 50amp breakers in the main feeding the sub-panel.  I do not have any heavy equipment in the barn just 2 door openers, LED lights and outlets for hand tools.


texts: What is this technique for matching cabinet veneers called?

texts:
Check out this picture of a kitchen cabinet:

Notice how the veneers of the cabinets match up perfectly! What's this technique called? My architect said we should just specify "book-matched veneers" but that doesn't quite capture what I'm seeing here where the individual cabinet and drawer faces appear to be cut out of a single piece of wood.


texts: How much does EMT conduit installed vertically on a poured concrete interior basement wall have to extend beyond the top of the concrete?

texts: I'm installing outlets in my basement on poured concrete walls and will be using EMT for conduit. How high over the top of the concrete walls must the conduit extend?  The original wiring has conduit that extends about four inches, but that was 15 years ago. Thanks.


texts: How to stop my mobile home's new doors from leaking when it rains?

texts:
We just replaced two exterior doors on our mobile home.  Now both doors leak at the bottom of the door where the door meets the frame. With the doors closed, you can see light at both the corners & we've had one recent storm & all is wet inside. I have tried several different items from hardware stores & nothing fits or works.

What will fix this problem?