texts: What can I do about electric code violations in a rental unit?

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My fiance and I are currently renting an apartment in Baltimore, MD and recently we have become alarmed by much of the house's wiring. Things we have seen included:

countless wires that are spliced together outside of electrical boxes
wires spliced together with only electrical tape inside electrical boxes
wires spliced together with only electrical tape outside of an electrical box
wires that are black spliced to wires that are white
single wires running from one electrical box to another (i.e. only hot or only neutral)
loose wires laying in the back of our cabinets
wires pinned (and chafed) between our oven and sharp corners of the cabinetry
lighting fixtures that are wired in series instead of parallel
twisted pairs without any sort of jacket running from one fixture to another

A lot of this was here when we arrived but we have personally observed a couple fixes entailing several of the bullet points above within the last few months.

I don't think that there is any combination of grandfathering in and loopholes that could result in this setup being up to code but are things like this common in older(early 1900's) houses?  We've brought it up with our land lord but he hasn't taken any significant action to correct the issues. Would it be excessively paranoid to insist that someone inspect the place? If not what type of inspection should we ask for?


texts: What height of insulation should I use between joists in an MDF floor?

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Background

I am starting my first serious DIY project - converting our garage into a playroom for the kids.  The garage floor is concrete.

My plan is to run timber (Sawn Kiln Dried Timber (L)3000 x (W)75 x (T)47mm - B&Q) joists across the concrete floor.  Then put down an MDF floor, put down carpet mat and carpet.

Question

I want the room to be warm all year round (we live in Ireland), so I'm going to put insulation between the joists in the floor.  The insulation will be Jablite Flooring Polyboard.  It comes in both 50MM and 75MM.

As my joists are going to be 75MM tall, should I opt for the 50MM or 75MM insulation polyboard and why? (will it make the floor more stable using 75MM, or will it decrease the insulations effect not having an air gap?)


texts: How to protect exterior phone line connection from the elements

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I recently had some work done in my phone line. The line works, but it was left partially taped. What's the best way to protect it? It's outdoors, so it needs to be UV-safe and waterproof. I've previously used liquid electrical tape, but it might be a mess the next time someone needs access to the wires. I'd use heat-shrink plastic, but I can't get it around the cable. I also thought about self-fusing silicone tape.

I know the correct answer is the phone company should have used a NID, but they didn't.


texts:
I just moved into this house. There's a 3 way switch that I can't figure out how to rewire it.When I turn it on at the bottom of the stairs, I can turn it off at the top of the stairs. But after doing that it won't be able to turn back on at the bottom of the stairs unless I switch it back on at the top of the stairs. I included a picture of how previous owner wired it, also a picture of all the  wire combinations I tried.
"Not Work" - lights won't turn on.
"Worked"- light will turn on but still the same problem. So I hope someone can tell me how to rewire it. Thanks


texts: How can I test a three-way switch to determine if it's working?

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I have a light fixture in my house that suddenly stopped working.  I tried replacing the lightbulb and still non luck so I decided to try and see if it was the three way light switch itself using a multimeter, but I'm having trouble deciphering the results.

From what I understand, I should be able to:

Turn off power to the circuit
take my multimeter and put it in continuity mode
touch the two screws that are on the same side
when I flip the switch back and forth it should alternate between beeping and not.
The same but beeping for the opposite positions when I touch the screw on the other side of the light switch instead of the screw below

When I perform this test, it beeps regardless of the position when I touch the screws that are on the same side and it doesn't beep at all when I touch the screw on the other side.  Does this mean that my switch is broken or am I testing incorrectly?  If it is broken, wouldn't the light be on all the time instead of not turning on at all?

Another interesting thing that I noticed - all of the screws on the side of the switch were loose.  I went ahead and tightened them up, was that the correct thing to do?  What effect could the loose screws have on the light?

Images of the switch below:


texts: Why would a motion sensor cause the light to flicker?

texts: I recently installed a motion sensor light and was called back because the light was "flickering" at half brightness rather than staying on brightly.  I tested the power and found good voltage, but when I put my tester to ohm meter and touched the white wire and the conduit, it showed that there is a connection between the two.  At the panel there is no separation between the ground buss bar and the Neutral bus barr.  Touching the two with ohm meter shows the same as when I touch the neutral and the conduit--a direct path between the two.  I am unsure if there is a ground fault that caused the light to act that way, or if it is a bad motion detector.  I bypassed the motion detector and wired the black and white wires I installed directly to the lights and they work fine.  I wonder if the motion sensor is not turning itself off completely, or if there are more significant problems.  I tested other outlets in the house with the ohm meter.  I put one pin into the large neutral slot of the outlet and the other pin to the conduit or metal jct box and found the same connection between the neutral side of the outlet and the conduit.


texts: What is this 2" Diameter Hole in Basement Foundation Floor?

texts:
I am wondering what this hole in my basement foundation floor is for, and if I can cover it up or just put a plug in it. I am aware of one other similar hole (carpet is covering it though) on the other side of the basement.

It appears to have a depth of about 1 foot and then turns. The house was built in 2000, if that matters.


texts: Why can't I get gas to our gas fire place?

texts: Okay so my boyfriend and I are trying to light our gas fire place... we turned on the gas that t's off from the line in the basement which goes out to the main line which goes to a meter. The main line comes from the meter into the basement t's off for the gas pipe to the fire place it goes under the stairs out of the house continues outside  and comes up along the fire place chimney and back into the house.... no value out there we checked...comes out of the wall which goes into a vent along side the fireplace.. there is a value inside the fireplace which we have to use vise grips to open because it is to hard to turn by hand... we turned it on and nothing we dont smell or hear anything.. tried to lite it when gas was "on" but nothing... any help would be great we have owned the house for 10 years and our family  said we had it lite once but we dont remember how or anything....


texts: Can I have splices in an electrical panel?

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Adding 220 to garage no room in my 125 amp main panel. Subpanel will be 10 ft from main will be removing 3 15amp and 1 20 amp  breaker to add 50 amp breaker in its place.
I'm I allowed to have splices inside of main panel or will I have to add J boxes for circuits that were transferred to subpanel


texts: I have a long dirt driveway that is riddled with potholes.  I can’t afford to have the repair done for me or even to rent a bobcat. My thought is to have a load of driveway mix/stonecrete delivered and then move it by wheel barrow to the spots that need to be filled.  I’m not looking forward to this at all lol.  My question is how can I prevent the pile of gravel from settling so it stays workable for a while, possibly up to a week?


texts: Are electrical outlets usually positioned on studs?

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I lack a studfinder at the moment, and I'm considering getting a wall lamp that I think is just too chic. However, I live in an apartment, meaning any holes that I drilled would need to be filled in. I'd rather not drill all over the world, and I am not very good at the knock-and-listen trick.

But I do know that my electrical outlet's location, which the wall lamp would need to plug into. So, in the U.S., are electrical outlets installed atop a stud? And, do studs (in apartment buildings in the U.S. built in the last 10 years) go straight up and down?


texts: Lamination to achieve smooth surface over plywood

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If I have a 2x4' piece of regular plywood, is there any laminate material that I can glue on top of it to achieve the smoothness of MDF board or cheap kitchen counter tops? I was thinking something that comes in rolls like wallpaper that is either self-adhesive or that I can glue using contact cement or wood glue.

I'm not sure if "lamination" is the correct word -- I am essentially just looking to achieve a smooth surface that I can wipe off with a damp cloth that is smooth (and not rough like plywood).


texts: Is it appropriate to put polyethylene between hardwood and subfloor?

texts: My installer put polyethylene between hardwood and subfloor. Is that a problem?


texts: Can polyethylene backer rod be used to caulk (silicone) a ceramic tile shower wall to an acrylic base

texts: I have to use some backing in order to caulk between tile walls and a shower base where the gap to be filled is 5/8 inch wide and 1 inch deep.   Is polyethylene backer rod appropriate for use in a shower application?   What type backer rod works best with silicone calk (open cell or closed cell)?


texts: what NEC addresses using GFI breakers to address outlets with no ground

texts: What NEC section addresses the use of GFI breakers to remedy ungrounded outlets


texts: Replace single pole light switch with 12 gauge backstab

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I would like to replace a single pole light switch in my family room, but the configuration is not one that I am familiar with.  Other than the ground wire, there are 3 12 gauge wires in the following configuration:

12 gauge black wire to the top backstab
12 guage black wire to the top screw terminal
12 gauge red wire to the bottom backstab

From the research I have done it looks like backstabs are generally frowned upon and if you are using the backstabs you should only be using 14 gauge wire (at least in a residential install).

So what should I be using to replace this switch and what is the correct way to wire it?  An interesting point is that I have never found what this switch is actually controlling, but since I was in the box replacing another switch I thought it best to replace this one as well.


texts: How do I fix a door frame that my dog chewed?

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My dog chewed the bottom part of the doorframe to my bedroom.  I live in a rented apartment, so this is not OK.

Is there any way to fix it and make it look somewhat presentable (doesn't have to be perfect)?

How do I find a matching frame?  How do I match the paint?

Update: Just wanted to thank everyone for their help!

@XOPJ: Thanks, that is useful to know.  Actually, I don't think she actually chewed it, but simply scratched at it when I left her in the room for a while (she's got separation anxiety).  So my description was not quite accurate to begin with!

Regarding replacing the trim, I think that's just too much work for someone like me who doesn't know much about DIY projects.  I considered this initially before coming to this forum, but there doesn't seem to be an easy way to remove the trim, and I'm afraid I'd knock a huge chunk out that I'm not supposed to if I tried to pry it off!

My filler experiment has been a half-success:  I had one big chunk which I managed to glue back in place, and I filled in the rest with wood filler and painted over it.  Since it's near the bottom of the door, you don't notice it unless you're looking for it.  However, I think I'll try to touch it up at some point in the future.


texts: Looking to make a mosaic tile backsplash between my range and vent hood.  I am looking at the various tile options out there and am considering the peel and stick.  Do these really adhere as well as they state?  I am concerned with the adhesion level since I would be using them behind a range and the area is exposed to a decent amount of heat.


texts:
I'm looking for a water container that functions like the one on the bottom, as water flows out of the container, the "cap" goes down, no air gets in. I don't know what it's called or what keywords to use. English is not my native language.

I need it so I can increase the water flow rate of the container by placing a weight on the cap.

I'm aware of alternatives, I'm just interested in this particular setup, just a tank, with a weight placed on top to increase flow rate. Any help?

P.S., ignore all the other parts in the image, it's just an image I came by in a physics forum and it include the part I want.


texts: Replacement of existing carpet and vinyl tile fllors

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I am planning on doing a major Reno to my main floor this year and am looking for guidance on how to do the flooring.

I currently have vinyl peel & stick tiles in the hallway and kitchen. This was applied over the original builders 12 x 12 faux marble tile (circa 1975).  The L-shaped LR/DR is carpeted.

I want to install engineered hardwood in the LR/DR/hallway and ceramic in the kitchen.  I will likely also be replacing kitchen cabinetry, in case that should be a consideration in my approach to this reno.

This project leaves me in need of advice regarding how to remove the old vinyl floor, and if I cut through the underlay to do that (which seems like the easiest way, though there is a possibility of asbestos in the builder’s tile) should I remove the underlay from the carpeted areas before laying the engineered hardwood.

I hope that makes sense. Thanks in advance for any advice offered.


texts: How to remove masking tape residue from linoleum?

texts:
I attached few pieces of masking tape to a linoleum floor to help a child with her exercises (long jump kid-style). Now when I removed the tape, there is residue left through the whole length of the tape.

How do I remove residue from masking tape? Ideally with generic stuff or products of FMCG giants (P&G, Unilever, Johnson&Johnson to name a few), not branded things from DIY shops (like WD-40 or Goof-Off), as items like WD-40 or Goof-Off are too rare in the area where I live. Even better if it's child- / prengancy-friendly (I realise the latter is too unlikely to exist, so it's really optional).


texts: My wife and I just moved in to a brand new house and have started to notice that the water in the toilets is an orange color, and is starting to leave stains in the bowl. After looking online briefly, I have seen the suggestion that perhaps there is rust in the plumbing. I know that all of the plumbing in our house consists of what appears to be plastic piping... is there any other explanation? What steps should be taken to fix the problem?


texts: Help debugging this circuit, voltage across lights drops to half unexpectedly. Diagram in post

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I fitted a PIR sensor at my parents' to turn the bathroom light on and off automatically last week but the lights are very dim. On inspection, there is only half of the potential difference across the bulbs and I have no idea why. I'm fairly electrically literate but I am at my limit here so hopefully one of you folks can give me some pointers.

Previously, when the lights were operated by a simple switch, the live was switched and the neutrals were connected in the loft above.

According to the wiring instructions for the PIR sensor, the live and neutrals should be a constant supply to the sensor, with a third feed that becomes live when the circuit closes (when someone enters the room). I have drawn a circuit diagram to illustrate how the circuit looked on the old setup (which worked the lights at full brightness/full 230V potential difference [I live in the UK]), and now, at 115V.

Before on the right, now on the left. Note that the bulbs are wired in parallel both before and after (I drew them wrong). This to me would be the first thing that looks amiss, however this was the case before and they worked just fine. The 3 feeds coming into the junction box are go off to different parts of the house's lighting main, unrelated to these lights.

I grabbed a voltmeter and took some readings across some noteworthy points in the circuit:

At the PIR sensor, the potential difference between the live and neutral terminals is 230V, as expected.

When the PIR sensor is closed (on), the potential difference between the output (A) terminal and neutral is 110V, not expected, should be 230V.

This issue is happening before we even get to the bulbs (which are 11.4V LEDs on transformers, I expect there are also bridge rectifiers built into the transformer modules), so the issue must be with my wiring, but I can't see anything untoward.

Any and all suggestions gladly received! TIA


texts: Feasibility of using corn seed as a sandbox

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For an outdoor sandbox, how feasible is it to use corn seed instead of sand?

I rather enjoy how corn seed feels compared to sand, but I have a couple of concerns:

Rot: How long would it last? How much of a difference would covering (with a pavilion) make?
Price: how expensive is it compared to sand?


texts: Hardwood over poorly-installed asbestos sheet flooring

texts:
In a guest apartment with three rooms the smallest room has two layers of sheet flooring in it. Below the two layers there's some sort of black felt paper. All those layers are glued onto each other and they are not tiles but one big sheet each.

The flooring jobs were done poorly, with the surface showing up to one third of an inch difference in height over maybe a yard distance and many small bubbles and spikes. The flooring was tested, the middle layer contains asbestos.

Now we'd like to put hardwood flooring in, avoiding removal of the existing floor since it contains asbestos. I have just the right amount of click type bamboo flooring (suitable for below grade) with 3mm thick underlayment and would like to use that.

My question is essentially what do I use best to make the existing floor level? Can I pour regular leveling compound over it? I'm afraid that it will be too thin and crumble over time. If I make it thicker, there will be a height distance to the other rooms. Is there some special leveling compound suitable for this situation (thin and over vinyl flooring)?


texts: How can I stop water from seeping into my garage?

texts:
Water is seeping through garage wall .People suggest dig and put French drain .I start to dig but can I put more concrete by the footer and support the wall instead of French drain?

The water is seeping from bottom to plastic isolation and to wooden frame inside garage.Its only like 3/4 of the wall ,about 12 feet .The seep starts from the corner.The inside concrete starts fall apart inside the garage.I send pictures.Thanks for help ,I don't have $ for professionals so I try to do it by myself.


texts: Can push in connectors be used for parallel circuits?

texts:
Adding in new construction can lights that come with push in connectors.
Rather than using the old yellow cap twists, the connectors have 4 slots and I wanted to know if I can just run a line from one light to the next using these connectors, or will that act as series?


texts: Why are some bricks crooked in my attic wall?

texts:
I live in a victorian terraced house, and one of the chimney breasts has been removed at some point in the distant past. However they didn't remove the part in the roof, which was poorly supported. I'm selling the house and thus I want it removed.
Prior to doing this, I spoke to my neighbour, and went into their loft to photograph the other side of the party wall so I could check afterwards there was no obvious damage.
Roughly where the chimney is however, the bricks are all messed up. I would expect cracks in the mortar if there was any movement of the wall, but instead it sort of looks like someone has taken bricks out and then wedged/cemented them back in.
This could have occurred literally any time in the past 70 years, but I am wondering what people make of it.
It's not the greatest picture, because the loft space is very small and hard to squeeze through, but you can see something weird has happened on the left.

My question is - is this a warning sign that you should get it checked out, or is it simply a case of someone taking out the bricks (for any myriad reasons) and patching it back up afterwards?


texts: MO 4 4post breaker in a home running both 110 and 220 off same breaker

texts: An old house built pre-50s has cloth-wrap wiring.  I cannot find the amps or maker anyplace on any panel or breaker.  There are five panels in the house: one main and 4 sub. There is also a low volt system.  Is any of this still up to code and where can I find info on this type system?


texts: open neutral caused from changing water tank?

texts: I had my water tank changed and since then my dish washer does not work. There is no power to it from the existing wire. Ihave since turned off the breaker to it changed it and nothing. There are no other outlets in the house that dont work with power off so i assume its the only appliance on this circuit. I have a 3 prong tester and I noticed that all my outlets show (open neutral) what the hay? its a 10 year old house. do i need an electrician?


texts:
I have some plumbing that has been done in 3/4" PEX and the 90-degree brass elbow fittings that connect the lengths of tubing fit inside the tubing, so I don't see how these elbow fittings could possibly be 3/4" if they are inside 3/4" tubing. The elbows themselves look more like 1/2" pipes to me than 3/4" pipes.

What is the story here? Are PEX fittings smaller diameter than the tubing???


texts:
In my 1924 house, I have a swing door between the kitchen and the dining room.

We use the dining room to contain our dogs on rainy days when we don't want them in the rest of the house. The problem is that one of our dogs has figured out that the door does not latch, and then gets out to roam the rest of the house.

I'm trying to find some kind of double sided latch so that the door will latch no matter which side we push.

It seems like my searches always bring me back to regular door handles with one-sided latch, or dead bolts that can be unlocked only on one side.

I don't want to lock the room, like with a key. The latch or bolt must be operated from either side. And it can't be a fence latch, not for a door in my house. The problem is, I don't know if this exists, and I don't know how it would be called.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about or have a practical solution?

Thank you,

Steven


texts: What could be causing a leak on the supply side of a washing machine hose

texts:
I have recently installed a new washing machine. In the new machine, as well as for the old one, there is a leak as indicated in the following picture:

https://imgur.com/a/92oSaFk

What could cause this? I have screwed the clamp tightly by hand - should I be using a tool to do this?

Note: this is on the cold side, and the hoses are new, but the faucets old.


texts: can I use natural rocks from my property as a 4 foot retaining wall?

texts: I want to use natural rocks and build it up to about 3 feet.  Will it last if I use concrete/mortar to fill in the gaps?  I am in east Tenn where it freezes in the winter.


texts: LED TV connected to CCTV DVR through HDMI cable is causing a problem

texts:
I have connected an LED TV to my CCTV DVR through an HDMI cable and the picture quality is very good, but it is causing a problem. Whenever any electric switch is turned on or off, the picture goes for few seconds and then comes back again.

After a few days the HDMI port is fried and also the DVR is burnt. I changed the HDMI cable and put in a new DVR; the same happened: after a few days the DVR is burnt again, and this time the TFT connected to the VGA port has also gone (the card burnt).

Any ideas on what could be causing the problem or how it could be fixed?


texts: Leaking pool in Georgia - Let it leak through the winter and fix in spring?

texts:
My swimming pool has a moderate leak. I've had several people out to look for the leak, and they've failed to find anything. This summer I was losing around 1/2 inch a day, which is bearable, but since the pool was closed in the fall it seems worse -- an inch a day or so. I plan to have yet another company look at it when we open up in the spring. The company that is most recommended requires that the pool be open and safe to enter, so I think I need to wait until spring.

We live in the Atlanta area, where temperatures occasionally drop to just about freezing but not much more, and not for long. Normally I just leave the pump running on slow and that prevents any freezing issues.

If the pool is leaking this much, I'll need to continuously re-fill it all winter long so the pump can run. That's wasteful (and expensive, our water costs quite a bit).

What I'd like to do is turn off the pump and just leave the pool alone during the winter. I suspect the leak is in some of the plumbing and that the water will drop to just below the pipes (6 inches or a foot down) and then stay like that.

What am I risking by doing this? I hate to waste the water, but I don't want to have the pool more damaged than it already is.


texts: LED lamp is flicking. How to troubleshot?

texts:
I have this led floor lamp and the upright light/bulb has started to flicker yesterday. The lamp has been already  a little bit problematic because recently the LED driver broke and I have to order one to the manufacturer, which was a pain in the…

I'm guessing that the problem now it's the led bulb, but has started to go bad for some reason I don't know. This is an educated guess since the other light/bulb is working just fine, in consequence only can be either the bulb or the dimmer.

Is there any way I can asses what is the faulty part using a multimeter, for example?


texts:
Here are two photos of the switch I need help. So basically I want to change the left light to the right one and the right to the left but I don't understand the brown cables. Which ones do I need to change?

Thanks!


texts: Do i need special ball valve for hot water heating system? Is WOG rating ok?

texts: I am installing zone valves but want to isolate each loop with ball valves. can I use regular plumbing ball valves for this. Max temp would be 180 F.


texts: How can I raise the floor of a sunken room level with the surrounding floors?

texts: I have a large room that has a 4” sunken area at one end of the room.  I want to raise and level the entire room to same height.  How do I do that


texts:
I have some animals in my loft, I can hear them scratching around up there.  A month ago it was once a day in the night-time, but now I can hear the noise a few times a day and a few times in the night. I've been up inside the loft and I can't see anything up there at all, no nest or droppings or anything.
Here's a picture of the inside of the loft,  around the area where I hear the scratching most often. I've lifted up the insulation and I can't see anything under it either. There's loads of spaces where the animals might be getting in from one of the neighbouring houses. Why do animals even want to be in my loft if they're not making some kind of a nest up there?

I made a recording of the scratching noise that I'm hearing.  Does anybody know what animal this noise is likely to be?  I guess maybe pigeons or rats? I live in a terraced house in the north of England.
My landlord's response is that he can't see anything, therefore there's probably no animals. Is there anything I can say to him, apart from showing him the recording, to encourage him to do something about it? Is there any other way for me to find any additional evidence about the animals? Maybe there's something I can see if I look more carefully in the loft?


texts: Preventing formaldehyde release from particleboards

texts:
I have a few particleboards that I want to use as cabinet boards. What is the most simple way to reduce the release of formaldehyde? Quick and cheap would be great.

Would it be sufficient to foil-coat them? If yes, would any kind of foil work or does it have to meet special requirements?

I don’t care how the boards will look/feel.


texts: Sanded wall rough after brushing / rolling Kilz Original -- should I sand or is this normal?

texts:
I'm remodeling a pantry space in my home that had glossy dark purple paint on two walls and more matte gray paint on the other two. After removing shelving and wall anchors and completing wall repairs with spackle, I completely sanded the surface with an orbital sander using 120 grit to prepare for primer. I then swept, vacuumed, and rinsed the walls with a wet rag to remove dust; the walls were smooth to the touch. Last night, I rolled Kilz Original primer onto the walls. Today, the surface looks like this:

I'm not sure if this is what it's supposed to look like, but I painted some finish coat (Ben Moore Regal, Eggshell) over it and it still seems to have the same rough surface qualities:

Is this what Kilz Original primer is supposed to look like when applied? Should I sand the walls again before applying top coat? Could this be because I used the cheaper "Best" roller from Walmart (I think not, because the brush marks are also pronounced)? I tried sanding a small area today, but it clogged the paper. Am I overthinking this? I've never used Kilz Original primer before, but I have used BIN, and it didn't really look like this (but it was over a light color).


texts:
We just moved out of my in-laws.
Unfortunately the movers left long drag marks on the floor.

These are not deep, only at the surface. I.e. no gouges.

What is the best way to hide these marks or fix this?


texts: My french drains were incorrectly installed and I had water sitting around my basement for 3 months. I had a large mold bloom in the unfinished part of the basement and mold grow on the baseboards. The moisture levels in the baseboard ranged from 21 to 24. One wall was moisture tested with a probe and the drywall removed to 1 foot (levels were 17). The rest of the room was not probe tested. Room has been dried out with 4 dehumidifiers for a week. The re-mediators say there is no need to replace the drywall even if it was wet. Is this accurate? They have also not checked behind the drywall for more mold as non was visible on the front side.


texts: Did I damage my appliance by shorting the power wires in the junction box?

texts:
Dish disposal was jammed and I unjammed it with the allen wrench but didn't take out the allen wrench and when I turned it on it wrapped the wiring around the allen wrench and pulled the wiring nuts off.

Well the white neutral wire of the dish disposal was hidden inside the cover of the bottom of the disposal and I didn't see it. I thought it was odd that there was only 1 black wire hanging out the bottom of the disposal, but I continued to wire the hot and neutral of the extension cord to the 1 black wire out the disposal and saw a spark and of course it didn't turn on.

I realized that there are 2 wires coming out of the disposal and then proceeded to wire it correctly.  The disposal does not work and does not see to have power.  Did I short of burn out the dish disposal and need to replace it??


texts: Why would both switches on a 3-way switch fail simultaneously?

texts:
My kitchen has six canister lights controlled by a pair of 3-way switches.  Yesterday, I flipped one of the switches on and nothing happened.  I tried the other with the same result.

When I check the voltage, I get 92V on one switch for both pairs of wires regardless of the switch position.  On the other I get 92V from one pair regardless of the switch position, but only millivolts from the other pair if in one position, 92V if in the other position.  The lights do nothing regardless of either switch's position.

Do I need to replace one switch?  Both?  Call an electrician?


texts: With woodstove removed and not being reinstalled, how do we get rid of the burned wood smell in the fireplace/chimney?


texts: Adding push button to Chamberlain opener

texts: Added a doorbell push button to newly installed Chamberlain garage door opener...linked push button wires to same contacts as the incoming control pad inputs (red and white). Doesn't work. Is this wired incorrect?


texts:
I've just inherited my dad's house and I've been looking over it's condition, and one of the walls was getting damp when it rains, I had a look in the loft and saw the following:

Is this dry rot? It's on the two diagonal timbers and the load bearing one that runs along the bottom that you might not be able to see in the photo.
To the left it also looks like an old wasps nest and they have eaten away the insulation!

What is the best course of action? How urgently does this need doing?


texts: Where do I place the shims after replacing hinges?

texts: Replaced door hinges on front door and now the door has a gap on the lower portion along the front edge and fits fairly close as it goes up the door like it did before. So do I put the shims on that bottom hinge to move the door forward and close the gap?


texts: I have a manufactured home (2001 vintage) sitting on a crawlspace. (I.e. it has mortared cinderblocks around it rather than skirting.) The home has a vapor barrier attached to the underside between it and the crawlspace. I want to run some ethernet cabling through the crawlspace. I'm planning to use the direct burial stuff and either just let it sit or bury it in the dirt floor of the crawlspace. I'm still working on building a drain to keep the crawlspace dry (I just bought the home and the previous owner saw no need to drain the crawlspace) so I want the vapor barrier to stay intact. Is there any way to run cable through the barrier and seal around it so that it's not letting moisture or cold air through?


texts: Is it possible to use the same key when replacing a door knob?

texts: The lock mechanism broke in my exterior door knob. I am probably going to have to buy a new one. Can i buy a new door knob and program it to use my existing key so I don't have to get new keys?


texts: How tight should threaded brass pipe fittings be?

texts:
I'm working with 3/4" brass fittings, which seem pretty robust.

Some plumbing fittings should be only finger-tight. My friend said I should use 2 wrenches to make these as tight as I can, and then some.

How tight should I make them?

EDIT: I am plumbing water, but I'd like to learn to plumb gas, too.


texts:
I have a circuit that has a couple outlets and they used 2 wire no grounds.
Can I replaced the wire with 3 wire for the outlets and add new 3 prong outlets. It is a long difficut way back to my panel ground bar to run a ground wire for the two wire power source. I have another 240 circiut used for a 4' baseboard heater near my outlets. The baseboard has 3 wire and is grounded back to the panel. Can I run a green wire from the outlets to the ground wire used in the baseboard heater instead of running a seperate green wire back to the panel for the outlets ? Thanks.


texts: Bypass a three-way switch for the next single pole switch in the same circuit to work on a different light?

texts:
Is there a way to bypass a three-way switch for the next single pole switch in the same circuit to work on a different light?

I have four lights on one circuit with two of them on three-way switches. Only one of the single pole lights work without interference from the three-way switches. The other single pole light can only turn on and off when the three-way switch lights are on. When I opened up the single pole switch box, I find two cables each with a black and white line plus ground wires. After removing the single pole switch in question, only one of the black lines have power AND it only has power when the three-way switch is on. When the three-way switch is off, neither cable has power in the black or white lines.


texts: How can I repair a chip in partical board table top?

texts:
I got this table from IKEA, and it was delivered with damage in it, unfortunately I did not recognize it as I had to check 10 packages but this is another story.

As you can see in the picture there is a part that was chopped away.

How can I fix this?

Is there a way I can do it WITHOUT cutting (since I do not have the tools for it)?

NOTE: The Swatch is there for a size reference.

UPDATE
I've managed to get a similar product and filled the crack with it. I'll post the results tomorrow :)

UPDATE 2:
IKEA replaced the table after 9 months because of my rigorous phone calls and complaints.


texts: Use one 14-3 cable in place of two parallel 14-2 cable

texts:
I'm adding a ceiling fan and wired smoke detector to a bedroom that previously had just a switched outlet. The switched outlet currently receives power via 14-3 cable coming from the switch, with the black wire always hot and the red wire controlled by the switch. My intention is to rewire the outlet so that it is not switched and run power from it up to the new fan and smoke detector.

I see two ways to wire this, and I just want to make sure that the more efficient way to do it is up to code.

Run 14-3 wire from the outlet to the fan, connecting the black wire such that it is always hot and the red wire so that it is switched. I would then use the red wire to provide power to the fan, and use the black wire to provide constant power to 14-2 cable running from the fan to the smoke detector. This is the option I'm leaning towards.
Just run 2 separate 14-2 cables from the outlet to the fan and smoke detector.

Also, I assume that many of you will point out that I should switch the fan lights separately from the fan, but I'm not going to do this because the fan I'm adding comes with a remote, and the receiver actually isn't set up to accommodate separate wires for the fan and the light. Finally, some of you may point out that it's not a great idea to have the lights and outlets in the room on the same circuit. I agree, but it would be a massive amount of work power these new devices from another circuit, and the bedroom is already on its own circuit with just 3 outlets so I'm not too concerned.


texts:
I am tiling my bathroom floor and don't soon have a full day to dedicate to the job. Is it ok to lay down a few tiles each day and come back to the job when I have time? I would only lay mortar for the tiles I have time to lay each day.

My concern is that the mortar wouldn't properly "join" to the previously laid sections of tile and cause an inferior result, but I'm not really basing this concern on any facts. That is what I'm hoping to learn with this question.


texts: How to Raise/Level a Sunken Patio Slab at the corner?

texts: I recently purchased a house and it has a very nice, solid backyard patio slab. The slab has no cracks whatsoever and is attached well to the house's foundation/slab. However, due to the property being downhill towards the house, the corner of the slab (not the one attached to the house) has sunken a few inches. I would say 2-3, maybe 4 inches at the most. It currently looks ok. It doesn't look or feel sunken, but I have noticed that when I get heavy rain that corner floods a bit. Also, the soil has pushed against it over time that it has formed a bump  higher than the floor level. I just built a french drain to make sure the water doesn't come towards the slab or the foundation and now I want to install tile on that patio and I was wondering if I can pour mortar or concrete on that corner to raise it and bring it to level. I will use a floor leveler once it's all leveled, but I feel like I need to fix that corner first. Any recommendations or suggestions on how to raise that corner without having to jack it up, etc? The total area to be raised is about 5 square feet. Thanks in advance!


texts:
Hi, I'm having some difficulty trying to wire up this light in my house.

I'm living in Germany in an old building and the existing light only has two wires coming from in which are the brown and blue ones, as you can see from the picture.

Now the new light I've bought also has the yellow and green wires, which I presume are the earthing cables?

Does anyone have any ideas how to get around the problem of missing the earthing cable?

I apologise if this is a stupid question but I'm clueless with electrics.

Thanks in advance


texts: Removing Threaded Socket from Wood Chair Leg

texts: I need to replace the casters on a wood dining chair. I was able to remove the threaded casters. I am not able to remove the threaded caster sockets. There is no lip to pry them out. Is there a tool or some other way to remove them from the chair leg? They have a notch in each side, but they won't turn with a flat tip screw driver. Any advice would be great!


texts:
I got a bed frame from someone and after assembling it, the wooden legs in the middle of the slats don't touch the floor. They touch the floor only if I press down hard on the bed. Is this supposed to be the case or should I put a book between the legs and floor?

There is about 1cm of space.


texts:
I have a question installing a iron handrail for some stairs outside of my house. I don't have a wide enough walk way to surface mount the handrail to the level surface of the stairs and walk way so I have opted to put in concrete piers, 6 inches in diameter, down below frost level to embed the posts to the handrail. There are only two steps at this entrance, so it's a very short rail. The handrail's two balusters are one inch square.

My question is, am I overdoing this and is there a simpler/better way? Do I need concrete piers down below frost for something as 'simple' as a free standing handrail ?

Edit: Additional Details;

Here is the area in question.  The iron handrail would be installed on the right hand side, nearer the house.

This is the schematic of the iron handrail its self with it's one inch iron posts.


texts: Removing clip that's securing rubber hose in washing machine

texts:
Our washing machine developed a massive leak that caused a flood. We flipped the machine, and traced it back to two holes in a black rubber hose that appears to be attached to the output of the pump. How do I remove the clip that's securing the hose though?
My initial thought was to squeeze it, since it appears that a lip on the front is what's securing it. It doesn't squeeze though, and trying to squeeze it would reduce the diameter, and that doesn't seem possible since it's securing a hard plastic tube which likely won't compress.
I'm wondering if you need to snap the lip off and put a new clip on, then bend the lip down into place?
The clip:


texts: How to retrofit an impermeabilizant asphalt layer in a roof

texts:
An owner asked me to repair a roof for a never maintained ~60 year old construction, which lost its impermeabilizing properties, and year after year leaks water from rains through the concrete over the interior of the building.

For impermeabilization, an asphalt layer covered with a paint layer was used in the original construction, which -as the picture shows- has clear signs of damage due to all the passing years, peeled off, dryed, by the action of sun, and showing moss evidence due to the humidity in the zones not directly exposed by sun, penetrating the structure.

Beside the evident structural damage at the joint zones, which will be properly solved case by case, my question is how to reisolate the roof from the water action, and I do not have any clear clue about

How to remove the paint layer for working directly over the asphalt, applying temperature over it to re-melt it,
Or even remove the original asphalt layer at the compromised zones.

Which should be your best advice for removing or retrofitting a damaged impermeabilizing asphalt?


texts: What can I do to a chain link fence to make it dog proof?

texts:
I have a chain link fence which is pretty high but my neighbors' pit bull constantly climbs the fence to get over to my yard.  I am scared of this dog and the Law Dog has been called numerous times about this.

I would really like to put something across the top of my fencing so that I no longer have to fear this dog entering my yard, as I have two Brittany Spaniels and do not want them to be harmed in any way.

I would appreciate any information you can give me to fix this problem.


texts: Installing a shelf on a stucco-covered wall

texts:
We have a wall in the workroom next to our kitchen where we'd like to put a long, shallow shelf. The wall is stucco, and I'm a little concerned about the wall crumbling or cracking around the pilot holes and brackets. Has anyone successfully installed shelves on a stucco wall?

My concerns:

Drilling the pilot holes: I don't want to crack the stucco, and there's a layer of what I think is concrete between the plaster and the studs in most of the walls in this house. I'm thinking a thin masonry bit would work here.
Laying the shelf brackets: Since stucco isn't perfectly flat, the shelf brackets won't be perfectly against the wall. (We're thinking we'll use a bracket like  these.)


texts: How can I make a clothes rack from this pipe?

texts:
I found this piping in the shape of :

I want to turn it into a clothes rack since I have NO closet space.

I want it to be up right so the bottom pipe needs to be mounted to something to stabilize it.

It is one piece of pipe so the corners there are no connections, it is just bent at the corners. The beginning and end connect sort of like a male/female type connection but it is in one of the straight areas of the pipe.

Suggestions on how to do so...(simply, as I have only a few tools: a drill, hammer, and wrenches.)?


texts: Problem attaching the door of the storage unit of a IKEA MALM desk

texts:
I recently bought and assembled a MALM desk. The assembly went smoothly with no issue until the last step where I need to attach the door.
The hinges and the brackets are screwed in in their right spot. I managed to fit the hinges in the bracket and slided them right but then it's impossible to tighten the screw on the bracket in order to firmly attach the door. The screw can only be loosened and tightening to the maximum leaves a wide space between the hinge and the bracket so the door is left hanging and unattached.
I've been struggling with the problem all night so any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


texts: Installed Harbor Breeze ceiling fan/light with remote unit - wall switch no longer functions

texts:
I installed a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan/light with a remote control unit earlier this evening. I've installed several fans and never had a problem. This one sort of has me perplexed.

There was an existing fan/light in place. There are 4 wires inside the box (Red, Bare, Black, and White) It was wired as such:

Box                Fan
----------------------------------
Black              Blue & Black
Bare               Green
White              White
Red (capped off)   ---

The new fan has a remote unit that connects to the fan first with only a white and black wire exiting the unit. It is wired as such:

Box                Fan
----------------------------------
Black              Black
Bare               Green
White              White
Red (capped off)   ---

The previous unit used a wall switch to power the unit. Once the switch was on, you could pull the chains for the light and the fan to adjust speed. If you turned the switch off, it cut power to the unit altogether. The new fan/light does not respond to the switch at all. The only thing that controls the fan/light is the remote. Even if the wall switch is off you can still control the fan/light. I would've expected the switch to operate the fan/light the same way, meaning instead of chains, you would control the fan/light functions with the remote but if you turned the wall switch off the fan/light would turn off completely until the switch was turned back on. Am I wrong about this? Is there something I overlooked?

Thanks.


texts: What's the best technique for applying adhesive to the underside of ceiling joists?

texts: If applying adhesive while drywalling ceilings, is there a tip to applying to the underside of joists so that it doesn't drip all over the place? Also, are there places that sell applicator tips to go on the liquid nails tubes, or is there a good technique with the gun/tube that anyone's learned that keeps it on the wood, and not on you and the floor? Also, what kind of adhesive is preferred among installers?


texts:
I have 2 ceiling fans that were in my house when I moved in. Both fans have recently had the pull strings torn out of the switch. I took the fans apart, and wrote down the information on the switch, and both fans have a switch with 4 wires. The wires are labeled L,1,2,3. I went to the hardware store and bought replacement switches, also labeled L,1,2,3.

At this point I decided to play it safe and I labeled each of the wires based on the hole that they were inserted into (L,1,2,3). When I turned the power back on, instead of 3 speeds, I have 1. When I put the old broken switch back in place, the fan immediately runs on high (the speed it was on when the chain was pulled out), so I'm pretty sure that the fan is alright.

I'm nervous about just trying random combinations, not know what each of the different holes is for. I also do not know the manufacturer of the fans, so I am at a bit of a loss as far as reading manuals, or getting OEM help.

Will I be OK just trying different combinations until the fan is working better? I'd really rather not bring in an electrician.


texts:
I am trying to insulate and seal the eaves of a vented roof over a log
house in order to protect the thermal insulation (flax batts in my case)
from the outside air and liquid moisture (not vapor). Here is a view of
my eave cavity from the inside:

The cavity is bounded by rafters on left and right, by air
insulation (Tyvek diffusion membrane) on the top, and by the soffit
boards on the bottom. It forms a deep shaft that is not going to be
thermo-insulated all through because it belongs to an overhang over
the porch. Instead, the thermal insulation should be installed more or
less flush with the wall, so I need not fill the cavity entire.

The major problem is that, it being a log house, the roof assembly may
over time slide a little on the rafters down the top of the wall, as the
wood loses moisture and settles. How can I seal these eave shafts (if I
may so call them) about 15 cm down the way (flush with the outer side of
the log) in such a manner as to prevent the tearing or breaking of the
sealing by small motions of the roof assembly along the top of wall
attendant upon the drying-up of wood?

I have thought of fixing a piece of plywood, cut to size, to the sides
of the shaft, sealing it along the sides and top with the Tyvek tape,
which adheres well to wood and membranes, and at the bottom of devising
some flexible yet sealed connection with the outer-top surface of the
log. But I am at a loss as to a simple way to achieve the latter.  Can
you help?


texts:
Electrical outlets

I changed a pair of old 2 prong outlets to new ones with ground and grounded to the box that was already grounded.

It was a simple 2 wire with ground procedure.  However when I turned the breaker back on, there was no longer any power to the box.

What happened?


texts: should i remove trim before caulking window

texts: For weatherization purposes, is it worth removing the trim around windows (and sliding doors, etc) and filling the gaps behind the trim with spray foam (or perhaps caulk?), or is it acceptable simply to caulk around the trim?


texts: How can I lift buckets of mortar to second floor?

texts:
I need to lift around 100-120 buckets of mortar to level the surface of two slabs (around 20 square meters).

Besides raising each bucket pulling a rope up, is there any other (EASY) way of doing that? I have a pulley but I have nowhere to anchor it. Here are some schematics of the area:

Back side (lower, but harded to bring the buckets all the way around it).

Front side (higher, but easier to mix the cement right in front of it).


texts: I am trying to Support a little 8x12 pre-existing roof with 4x4's. there are 2x4 plates where I am trying to support, the 4" side down. I would rather not just toenail the 4x4 to the plate, and I know there are brackets, braces, plates, what have you, out there to buy. I have never bought these before so I'm looking for the name of the bracket I am looking for so i can find it in the store. Again, I need to attach a 4x4 post to a 2x4 plate with the 4" side going to sit on top of the 4x4 post.


texts: What is a strong glue for bonding metal?

texts: I have a (cheap) garage door that has the metal frames/hinges connected to the actual metal door by some kind of glue.  The glue on one part of the frame has broken off.  What is a glue that is strong enough to hold 2 pieces of metal together?  This is about a 1.5 foot length of metal that is about 1/4 inch wide.  The garage door opener connects to this piece so there is quite a lot of push/pull and vibration, so it needs to be very well bonded.


texts: How can I power my sump pump in a power outage?

texts:
My sump pump does a great job of keeping my basement dry even in heavy rain. But I worry about what will happen if I lose power during a heavy storm (like a hurricane) and my sump pump is unavailable.

I spoke to my plumber about sump pump backups, and they recommended digging a second sump pit with a dedicated backup pump that would be powered by either a marine battery or by the water pressure in my home's water service.

Both of these options were fairly expensive, so I was wondering if there are other options. I could get a gas generator and run extension cords into my basement, but is there a simpler option?

For example, is there a battery that has a conventional 110V electrical outlet and could power just the sump pump for a period of 1 - 3 days?


texts:
My induction blower never stops. It was showing a code of pressure switch but if I turned off the main power and then back on it would reset and heat normally till it was up to temp then shut off and do it again. If I unhooked the vacuum hose while it was running the flame would go out and the furnace blower would stop (not the induction blower) then when I hooked it back up it would start normally so I know the switch is good there is no problem with that. Th induction blower was replaced 3 months ago and has worked normally till now. The control board is also new.

It's a Heil H8MPN100J20A1 furnace about 10 years old.


texts: Options for adding a timer on heated towel rail socket in UK toilet

texts:
I live in the UK - my downstairs toilet consists of just a small sink and a toilet.
Next to the sink is a heated towel rail which is wired straight into the socket, and is controlled by a switch.
I would like to add a timer to control when it comes on and off as it is not connected to the central heating.
I have seen socket adaptors with timers on them (see picture), but this would mean installing a standard plug socket and rewiring the towel rail to have a plug.

As far as I can tell this is allowed under UK building regs as it is not within 3 metres of a shower or bath, but I am still worried about the proximity to the sink.
Would this be a viable solution or are my concerns founded?
Any advice would be much appreciated!


texts: How do I repair this rot/insect damage on my wall plate?

texts:
I am removing the lath and plaster (to add insulation) in my 1929 bungalow that I just bought in Portland, Oregon.

Along an exterior wall, the last piece of lath and a little bit of the plate were mostly wood powder.

I scraped away about 1/4 - 1/2 inch of the soft stuff around the corner of the the plate, after that it's solid. The studs also appear to be solid.

My question is, what is this, dry rot? Insect damage?

And what do I do with it? Should I replace this section of the plate? Spray some kind of anti-fungal agent on it? Leave it alone?

If it matters, the house was empty for at least a year (maybe two) before I bought it.

Update: I've found this in another room too, in a corner. My best guess is that it simply was dry rot, caused by moisture trapped in the corners. The moisture, I think, was left over from the original plastering of the walls. What I didn't show were large blobs of plaster that had fell behind the lath, and dried on top of the rotted area, getting trapped in the wall. I could be wrong, but everything left is solid and dry, so I assume the rot died a very long time ago.


texts: Odd Size Tub Drain- 1 3/8" Coarse Thread

texts:
I recently removed a drain from my fiberglass tub/shower enclosure. It didn't survive. The problem is that it the older 1 3/8 standard but coarse thread, not fine.

All I can find is fine in that size. Any ideas on a source or a solve? Could I somehow chase the threads of the new drain?

Thanks in advance.


texts: How do I diagnose why my casement window is leaking?

texts:
My casement window leaks water to the inside when it's raining. It has been leaking a while. It looks like it's leaking between the glass unit and the sash but the caulk between the glass and the sash on the outside does not look compromised.

How can I diagnose and fix the problem?


texts: How can I add lighting using 14/3 wire to an existing 20A circuit?

texts:
I currently have a 20A breaker with 12/3 wire leading to a double gang box which contains two 15A receptacles, that leads into another double gang box with two more 15A receptacles.
I'd like to replace the very last receptacle on the circuit with a switch which will be wired to a lamp socket. The lamp socket will have a 60W equivalent LED bulb.
I only have 14/3 wire on hand, which I know is not rated for use with a 20A breaker. Is my assumption that I should not pigtail the 14/3 into the existing 12/3 wiring correct? Or is it okay because it is the last leg of the circuit or because the light will draw like half an amp?
If it is not safe to use the 14/3 wiring, how would it be different if I wired a plug on on the end of the 14/3 wiring and just plugged it into the existing receptacle? This last part is really what I am hung up on.


texts:
First of all, I have a dumb question: does this white double pole breaker offer 20A or 40A (20A+20A as labeled) in total?
This double pole breaker controls both pool pump and washer (washing machine).
It trips all the time, and one time, the outlet for the washer was even burned out. Sometimes pool pump would suddenly stopped and lost power.
For the pool pump, it uses 10 Amps max, and for the washer, it uses 20 Amps max. Also, the pool pump was recently replaced and has some air inside sometimes.
Anyone know what might be the issue here?


texts:
I am in Montgomery County, Maryland and I had a contractor tell me it's against code to put a recessed light in my shower. The shower is 3' X 3' X 7'1" (3 foot by 3 foot and the height is 7 feet 1 inch).

Here are my questions:

Can I put a recessed light with shower trim in that shower? (Everything I see says I can)
Do I need a special high pressure light as it's under 8 feet tall? (And If so, what do I buy?)
Any other code related questions that I should be aware of?

I researched it and put the light in and this contractor (who does this for a living) tells me an inspector would reject it, which I don't believe as recessed lights in showers are everywhere these days.


texts: Why do the flames in my fireplace turn off and on constantly?

texts:
Does anybody know what would cause a gas fireplace to produce the behavior shown in the video? The flames keep turning off and on constantly.

Video


texts: Lutron LED/CFL Dimmer switch turns lights off the wrong way, up is down and down is up. What's the problem?

texts:
I bought the $20 Lutron Dimmer Switch (TGCL-153PH-WH) from my local big box hardware store. It dims the Cree LED bulbs great. There is just one problem... no matter how I install the wires the switch always tuns off in wrong position. The dimmer is marked UP and the has two terminals on the right side plus a wire at the top for ground.

I had to install it upside down for it to turn the lights on in the UP position. This matters because the slider is on the right side of the switch, sure I can use it upside down (with the slider on the left side but I don't think it's right)

The two wires in the terminal were Black and Orange. I used a fluke tester and determined that the black was hot. This switch actually powers an outlet. From that outlet I've attached 14-2 wire to "steal" electricity off it. What seems to be the problem?


texts: Does adding a disconnect box below the meter mean that my service panel is now a subpanel?

texts: I don't understand the bonding at my main disconnect. My problem is that my main panel in the house was wired OK with the neutral bonded to ground. The power company added a disconnect box below the meter box.  I noticed the disconnect they installed doesn't have the neutral bonded to ground. Am I going to have a problem? From what I read my main panel is now a sub panel because they added a disconnect? I am wondering why they thought it was OK.


texts: I recently ran some 3/4id poly pipe from my house about 300ft down a slight hill to my shop and garden area. I was not able to tie directly in to the underground pipe in the yard because my pressure regulator is under my house and I do not have a good way to get pipe out of the house underground. my solution was the put an irrigation valve box near a wall spigot and run a short, heavy duty hose from the wall to the valve box to feed the pipe. the inside pvc feeding the spigot I used is 1/2in. My issue with my flow at the garden is my flow, not the pressure. when I let pressure off and timed filling a 5 gallon bucket I calculated my volume to 4.2 gallons per minute, and my drip irrigation system will draw about 5.3 gallons per minute. My main question is trying to locate the bottleneck. its it mostly likely to be the 1/2 pvc pipe in the house? if so I can run a dedicated 3/4 line from closer to the house incoming line to the spigot, or would that cause the spigot to be a bottleneck? any help here would be greatly appreciated.


texts: When decorating I opened the thermostat cover to unscrew it from the wall. I never touched any wiring, decorated, screwed it back, closed cover, done! Now the thermostat won't work. Any ideas why this might be?


texts:
Does anyone know how an old apartment intercom with door unlocker works? When I open it I see 2 wire connected to it.

The way it works is very simple: if someone at the building entrance pushes my name on the button I can hear a buzzer. When I pick up the phone I can talk and I can push a button to release the door.

It seems everything is going through those 2 wires.

Using a voltmeter I can read 13v. And when I push the button it go to 0v.

Any one know more about how this works?


texts:
I just bought a set of Nest Protects and after opening the first one I noticed that its manufacture date was almost a year ago and that the expiration date was 10 years from the manufacture date, not from the install date. So effectively the units cost 10% more than their list price.

My reading of the Nest Protect manual is that the units will start nagging you to replace them a couple of weeks before the expiration date and that they will become quite insistent once they "expire."

A call to Nest wasn't too productive, but I did learn that:

I shouldn't expect the Protects to last 10 years - more like 7 or 8.
They actually start counting the 10 years from the install date - but supposedly this doesn't show up in the app. If I want to check the expiration date I can look at the back of the unit… Hopefully what they mean is that I can calculate it myself from the install date that I can write in the space that they provide.
That if I want to get fresh units I can have the store open them up for me to check the expiration dates (they are not printed on the outside of the packaging).

Needless to say I'm underwhelmed by the quality of the support.

Does anybody know:

If the date does show up in the app?
If it does, is it recalculated based on the installation date?
How the Protect behaves when it reaches its expiration date?
The typical age of units in stores (i.e., is the retail pipeline really almost a year long)?
Sources that are likely to have fresh stock?

Thanks. I think I still like the units, but would sure appreciate better customer support.


texts: How to hang a 170 pound board onto a brick building

texts: I need to hang a 20 feet wide by 12 feet high wood billboard flat onto a 50 year old brick and mortar building. The board weighs 170 pounds. I want to bolt it to the mortar not the bricks. How do I do this? Is 170 pounds to heavy? The bricks are standard size bricks, nothing unusual.


texts: Mounting an outdoor electrical box to a lamp post

texts:
My home has a couple of lamp posts in the front garden. One of the posts has a 1-gang metal outdoor box mounted to it, with a regular non-GFCI receptacle which I intend to replace with a GFCI so I can power Christmas lights with it (and landscape lighting during the rest of the year).
However on closer inspection of the box, I noticed that it is just screwed in to the body of the post. A Romex cable runs from a knockout in the back of the box through a hole in the post, but there's no sealing whatsoever in that knockout. Obviously this is a handyman job that's not up to code. It could have fooled me though because at first glance it looked like a good, sound installation (except the absence of a GFCI which should have raised a red flag, to be honest).
My first thought was to replace the box and install a new one the proper way, but my question is-- can an electrical box be properly mounted to a lamp post and still be in code? Any suggestions? Thank you.


texts:
Hi I am installing an off grid solar system form my orchard and shed. Basically there are some pumps, lightning and some household appliances like refrigerator etc.

I have read many articles about grounding/earthing, I know what is EGC and GEC are but I cannot figure out the proper way of grounding my equipment.

I have attached a very crude drawing (sorry for my paint skills). From what I understand I have to connect all bare metal parts together with a copper conductor and connect that to Neutral Line (this is EGC). Also I have to connect the neutral to the earth through an electrode (this is GEC).

It puzzles me since if a lightning strikes to the metal frame of the pv array, all the EGC since all metal parts of all appliances plus the neutral line will be momentarily raised to the voltage of the lightning strike ?

Also if a lightning strikes to a conducting cable like the cable going to the motor the SPD will close and again the EGC voltage will be raised to lightning potential ?

If someone could point out the following questions I will be grateful.

1)There are 8 grounding points in the drawing. Which of them should be bond together ?
2) How many grounding rods I need ?
3) Where should I connect the Neutral Line to the Grounding Rod ?


texts: PEX - Do not install tubing above or below septic tanks, leach fields, pits, or cesspools - why?

texts:
I am reading the "Installation Manual for Viega PureFlow Water System" and on page 41 it states:

Do not install Viega PureFlow PEX tubing where soil is or may become contaminated with solvents, fuels or similar chemicals.

AND

Do not install tubing above or below septic tanks, leach fields, pits, or cesspools.

Why?
Source:
https://www.viega.us/content/dam/viega/aem_online_assets/download_assets/us/impf_724596_0820_pureflow_water_system.pdf


texts: Can you eliminate a vent through the roof using indoor cheater vents under the sinks including tub and shower


texts: Problem deciding where to use ceiling colour and wall colour

texts: We have heating ducts that are covered in drywall making the ceiling lower in 2 parts of the downstairs bedroom. The highest part of the ceiling is 8 ft. Do I paint the underside of the ducts white to match the ceiling or do I totally paint them out in wall colour?Any help appreciated!


texts: lower the sheen of acrylic paint? (flat isn't flat enough)

texts:
We have a flat paint we love and wanted to paint the ceiling the exact color. Even though it's flat, it has more sheen than we'd like for a ceiling paint.

I've done a bit of research and have several ideas:

rough up the whole surface with 500grit sandpaper or steel wool
DIY powder additives like diatomaceous earth or calcium carbonate
additives that aren't made for reducing sheen but evidently tend to,
like EmulsaBond or Floetrol
attempt to remove some paint with vinegar or hand sanitizer and hope
it keeps color and reduces sheen
TSP or a liquid deglosser  (I actually already have Jasco "easy
liquid sander deglosser" from another project)

Any of these sound plausible? All terrible? Any other suggestions?

(It's HGTV Sherwin Williams paint from Lowes if that makes a difference.)
  I wish they tinted ceiling paint (assuming it's a truer flat/matte) .. but even then my "gallon" of regular flat is not quite a gallon, and the SW ceiling paint is, so even if I got someone to agree to hack the tint, it wouldn't tint the exact same.

What makes us not like the flat paint as is? It's not as flat as whatever the builders used, and with the texture it makes the ceiling appear polka dotted when looking across the room. Plus, we had a repair, and the slight sheen makes it appear obvious.
We thought about just going with standard white ceiling paint, but it makes the room feel a bit choppy.


texts: How do you prop an exterior wall to replace rotted wood?

texts:
I have an exterior wall, so load bearing, that is damaged.  About a 6ft span.  It's damaged at the bottom at the foundation, but it is enough to replace the studs.
How do I prop up the roof on the exterior wall, so I can make the repair?  It is the stud, bottom plate, the whole thing.  I may be able to sister the stud, but I am not sure yet, as I have to remove more siding to get the whole picture.  Plus the wood is 50 years old, but that may be a good thing?
The home is one story, so I won't be propping up two floors or anything.  Edge of the roof at the exterior wall.


texts: How to soften the recessed lights without replacing them?

texts:
I think I went overboard with installation of recessed lights in our living room. We have 6 recessed lights (ultra thin LED wafer like) in the living room and two switches connecting to each set of 3 lights. Even if we turn on one set, its is very bright and harsh on our eyes before bedtime.
The recessed lights are bright white and 900 lumens each while the living room is 20 ft x 13 ft with ceiling height of 10-12 ft.
I'm thinking of following two options as a solution but open to any other effective solution:

Add a dimmer - Setting the dimmer at 50% be less
Apply a softening film

Are there any possible DIY on the softening film?
Does the privacy films available in market for mirrors work well for this?


texts: Why does my wooden table have streaks after refinishing it three times?

texts:
Months ago I purchased a French expansion table.  I painted the table legs white and I am refinishing the top and expansion pieces in a dark stain with a semi gloss poly finish (Minwax).  I noticed when I initially stripped this table that one section didn't strip well.  I had to strip it again.

That stripping did well but when I put the poly on it, it was very cloudy and streaked.  Attributed it to the poly being outside in the Louisiana heat and humidity and not giving the can time to acclimate to indoor temperatures (as it was poly'ed indoors).  So went back and stripped it a third time.

This particular time, Minwax told me that I didn't give the stain enough time to dry as this coat of poly was tacky and didn't dry.  Furthermore, there were streaks in the finish.  So they suggested Mineral Spirits.  I used it and it did help.  But after sanding to try and remove the streaks, I could see scratches in the finish and I was so upset I stripped it again.

So, here I am on the fourth stripping. This time I took my time.  I hand sanded the piece.  I stained it and waited two days before putting the first coat of poly.  Being I had had so much trouble with the poly before on this piece, I used a sponge applicator thinking it would make a difference.  These streaks are what I am left with.  It was a little tacky the next day but it's almost dry.  The streaks are back!!!  I'm scared to sand it because last time I did that it scratched the table top even though I used the correct grit as indicated on the can.

So, to recap, poly acclimated correctly to room temperature, stain set for 48 hours.  What am I doing wrong?  How do I fix this so I can move on with my life?


texts:
We need to run conductor from a 200 amp main service panel to a sub panel that is approximately 200 feet away (50 inside garage, and 150 underground.)

The breaker in the main panel that will feed this line will be 70 amps.
We are going to be powering a hot tub (maybe 30 amps,) a sauna with 8000 watt heater, a 1000 watt wall heater, a tandem 20 amp breaker, and a single 15 amp   breaker.

Two questions: First - What wire should we use for these conductors, and, Second - can it be one run from panel to panel or does it need to be two runs...the garage as one run and the underground as the second run?


texts: Can brick patio and walk edging be removed without damaging the edging?

texts: The original installed patio and walk plastic edging around my brick pavers has become dislodged and is above the lawn line in some places.  Can those places or all of the edging be removed and will that damage the pavers?


texts: Electrical power to a detached shop, 60 amp panel, 80 feet of wire, what size wire do I need?

texts: I am running power through a conduit to a detached shop, 80 feet of wire, a 60 amp panel.  What size and type of wire do I need?


texts: Used the wrong color wood stain on a Cypress post

texts:
I am looking for advice on a home DIY mistake. We have 4 cypress posts in the front of our house, and 2 cypress posts in the back. They are new and had never been finished. I stained the back two posts using MinWax Special Walnut Stain and they came out great. When I began on the front, I started on one post and noticed it was darker than the back but it was in an area that is shady & was also still wet so I didn’t think otherwise. Confused, I picked up the can and saw it was MinWax Dark Walnut. I purchased this on a Lowe’s curbside pickup and should have double checked but rookie mistake. To be honest I looked and saw Walnut and went ahead not realizing.
How can I correct it now? Should I sand it back down first? Or should I use a paint thinner before? I’m also worried it will make this one post look slightly different from the other three once I finish them all. Please no rude comments. I am aware it was my error. I’m just trying to fix


texts: Hi,  I asked my installer to install these 6" X 24" tiles with a 6" offset and laid to look like a wood floor (random look).    This is what I got. Do you think I am unreasonable in asking the installer to remove the floor and replace it?


texts:
I had an integrated garage in the house. I have recently had a builder come and replace the garage door with a brick wall and a large bay window as I plan to turn this garage into an office.
I have contacted building control at our local council and they have rejected the application because there is no Damp Proof Course around the brick pillar.
See picture
The building controller, who I contact over whatsapp doesn't respond to my questions. The builder has gone AWOL and I'm not sure what to do.
The one thing I did get from building control was:
I would have wrapped the internal   face of the piers in DPM, before plasterboarding
Does he mean all I have to do is put a Damp Proof Membrane around the pillar from the window to the blocks?
I wish he would just respond but he takes days to come back to me and I want to proceed with the job.
Will I end up having to remove the window, fit a Damp Proof Course, and then put it back again?
This is in the UK.


texts: ASAP shower needs to be fixed i have kids someone

texts: changed out my diverter stem in my 3 handle shower because it wasn't working right but when I put the new stem in and tested it I wouldn't work still so I tried removing the stem and now it comes apart and only the nuts to turn it will come out but the stem it self will not how can I get the rest of the stem out with out having to replace everything behind my tile wall that I do not have access too


texts: Tips for getting cables through old work box knockouts and into wall

texts:
I’m replacing a botched 3 gang switch box (formerly consisted of two incompatible boxes together, cover plate did not fit right).
I have clamps on all my cables and am ready to put them through the box knockouts and into the wall, but due to many of the cables being of the very old, brittle, cloth covered type, I am afraid to wiggle things around too much. Any tips for this situation? I have tried starting with different cables first but it is very hard to get more than two at a time through, and the cables are so inflexible that I am afraid it will be really hard to get it into the wall.
I am trying to get the two yellow NM cables in a single clamp to come into the box from the bottom, and the rest are coming into the top and the rear of the box. The box I am using is 3x 2.5” deep gangable metal old work box. Knockout size 3/8”. Wall is lathe and plaster.


texts: "Floor-leveling compound" for a Kohler Tresham shower base

texts:
I have recently purchased a Kohler Tresham shower base with bench. I read the directions very carefully, and at step 4 (you can see the guide here: https://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1161835_2.pdf )
it says to use "mounds of floor-leveling compound at the base feet."

This must be a mistake, because everywhere I look online, floor-leveling compound is a very thin compound that will run like liquid. There would be no way to make it into mounds.

So my question is, what product should I really use to make self-leveling mounds like this that will provide an adequate sub-base for this shower? Please let me know what brand and name. Please also check out the link above for the instructions; it's pretty short and you'll see #4, which is where I'm confused.


texts:
I have two of these valves, one before and the other after my water meter in my home. This is a building with multiple apartments in New York City (not sure if it helps).

I would like to replace my water heater but need to shut off the water supply to do so, not sure if these valves are safe to use or old and due for replacement.

Can someone tell me what kind of valves these are and a rough guess as to when they may have been installed?


texts: Why do I need 4-conductor cable to my generator?

texts:
Why do I need all 4 wires in my generator twistlock?

The generator neutral and ground are bonded.  I have installed a Siemens 3-pole transfer switch, but would prefer to use 3 wire extension from the generator to the transfer switch.  (mainly cause the 4 wire is so big and bulky)


texts: What finish could be applied to a wood project with paper on top to seal and preserve the paper without discoloration or damage

texts:
The goal is to finish a handmade box (slightly curved top and bottom) with hinged lid covered with stamps. Without getting into the yak shaving of stamp adhesives, is there a material that can be used to coat the project over top of the stamp paper that will preserve the paper?

Ideas have included shellac, fiberglass (clear, without the mat), epoxy and water-based Polyurethane. Ideally, I'd like to have something that could sit on the shelf (with occasional interaction) for years without seriously falling apart. There should be no exposure to water (e.g. condensation from a glass or otherwise) nor heat (e.g. hot mug), but there might be sunlight hitting the location daily.


texts: Difference between 36 and 42db of noise isolation?

texts:
I do want to install various soundproofing improvements in an apartment, but when equipment and materials indicate the level of isolation, I really cannot judge at all the difference between them. I saw many charts of hearing db scale but those are really rough approximations, and If I'm correct, db scale is logarithmic, meaning for me that small differences can have huge impact or, oppositely, huge differences can have small impact when I move toward the biggest numbers or towards 0.

So, for instance, last thing I was looking into was the entry door. Many announce about 36-39db where others, usually more expensive says 42db.

But what is the difference between 36 and 42db ? Can I hear the difference clearly ?

Can I "test" or "emulate" that somehow ?


texts: Paint a twenty year old door that have some paint peeled off

texts: If one do not want to use a paint stripper to remove the remaining paint, is it recommend to paint a new water-based wood paint on the door?


texts: fire extinguisher selection & sizing for home use

texts:
With such a bewildering array of fire extinguisher technology available what are the considerations that one would use to select a model? Also, what's a rough sizing guideline?

In addition to an extinguisher does it make sense to own any other fire fighting technology? Obviously, smoke alarms but what else? A fire axe? A fire blanket? A sand pail?


texts: Sanity check on hot water line for dishwasher installation where there wasn't one before

texts:
Here's how the sink currently is hooked up:

Rear shut off valves:

Front hookups to sink:

The approach I was looking at - after significant confusion at home depot (I'm honestly still a bit confused):

I would disconnect the hot water input, and connect it to part A (A = one of a 3/8 in. MIP and 1/2 in. MIP Brass Water Supply Adapters Link ), connect to a tee (B Link). And then C is a hose from a universal dishwasher supply line and D is a faucet hose. Is this correct? Part A came with a brass ferrule but it was under a nut I had to remove and it doesn't seem like it would fit? I assume all threads here should receive plumber's tape? Anything I'm screwing up?

Thank you!


texts:
I live in southern Brazil and I don't really know if I need a vapor barrier, mainly because I'm still confused about its purpose.

The house in question have brick exterior walls and interior drywall. At first I thought that I might need the vapor barrier in the wall between batrooms-bedroom and bathroom-bathroom. But after some research, it seems to be that vapor barrier is meant to avoid condensation on colder climates in heated houses, is that so?

Here we don't have cold winters (around 10-15°C average) and or summers can get quite hot (35°C average).


texts: Why does my old table saw power switch cut both hot and neutral?

texts:
I am refurbishing an old Craftsman 10" table saw that has been collecting dust in the back of my shop for years.

I don't remember exactly how I acquired it, but to my recollection the one time I tried to start it sparks flew from the on/off switch. The switch controls an integrated 110vt receptacle which the motor plugs into. All is factory original.

I tested the motor by plugging the motor power cord directly into a wall receptacle and it runs fine. I would like to resume using the factory On/Off switch (because it is a safety switch- pull On, push Off) but wanted to check it first.

Opening the switch box I discover that the switch is double-pole, i.e. opens and closes both the hot and neutral wires that lead to the motor receptacle.

why did the manufacturer install a switch that opens/closes both the neutral and hot?
can I safely use the switch to only open/close the hot (the neutral side is dead/open)? I can wire the neutral to bypass the switch...


texts: Must Electrical Adapters Be Inside Gang Boxes?

texts: I'm replacing a wall sconce light with a bluetooth speaker so I have AC wires coming into the spot where the speaker will be but I'll be removing the circular gang box that the sconce light connected to.  The bluetooth speaker has a DC adapter that I can wire to the existing AC wires.  But do I need to add a new covered gang box for the adapter to live in or can it just dangle behind the wall?


texts: Can I connect a gazebo light to a shed sub-panel or outlet?

texts:
I have a sub-panel in my garage and there is UF cable 12-2 running underground to my shed with a disconnect box, and the 12-2 wire is running to a GFI.  Within the shed, I have another 20 amp outlet, two ceiling lights on a single pole switch and two outside lights on their own switch.  I’m adding a gazebo on my deck and need to add a ceiling fan with a single pole switch and one outlet.   Can I run another UF 12-2 underground to my shed and tie the wires to the disconnect box or to the other 20 amp outlet?

Here is the diagram:


texts: Two Circuits on a Single 12/3 - Shared Neutral

texts: I was recently trying to upgrade a 20A breaker supplying outlets in my kitchen and dining room to a CAFCI breaker.  When I opened my breaker box I saw that the neutral on this circuit was shared with an adjacent breaker, which supplies our kitchen refrigerator.  This setup does not seem particularly safe (noted when I disconnected the outlet breaker and the neutral was sparking when I tried to disconnect it from the busbar).  From reading around, it seems that the outlet and fridge breakers should have a handle tie since this is a MWBC.  Is this correct?  If so, can I replace both breakers with a double pole CAFCI breaker?  Is it okay to have a fridge and kitchen outlets powered from the same breaker?  Thanks in advance!


texts: What do the color designations of wire mean?

texts: I am wiring a hot tub I recently purchased and is a 220V 4 wire connection. The wire is AWG 6. The instruction book shows black and red hot wires for this tub, but the wiring on this tub has black and blue hot wires. The reading I have done always indicates black and red hot wires. I'm guessing some wire companies make blue hot wires. Is there any significance to this not being red that I may not be aware of?


texts: Is it possible to remove and replace base molding, and not have to repaint the wall?

texts:
I am dealing with recent flooding in my apartment. As you can imagine, I am doing repairs myself. The work is financed by my insurance company, which has been pretty good about it. There is just one point of disagreement, which is the subject of this post.

The walls in my apartment are not perfectly flat, and so when the baseboard is attached, there is always a gap, up to maybe 1/8". This gap is caulked and painted over for smooth finish. The point of disagreement is this: when the board is removed (I am replacing hardwood floor, so there is no getting around it), the caulk line is damaged, and needs to be scraped off and sanded smooth. Now when the board is attached, the gap needs to be re-caulked, and both the baseboard and the wall painted. I do not really see how one can avoid repainting the wall.

The insurance company is claiming that skilled workers can remove baseboard without damaging the wall, and therefore repainting the wall is not necessary.

Is this a reasonable claim? I do not really see how this can be done, but being a DIY'er and not a pro, I may be missing something.


texts: Why don't my CFL bulbs stay on in my ceiling light fixtures?

texts: I'm having a problem in my house with CFL bulbs staying on.  I have a two bulb ceiling light in the bedroom and a three bulb light in the bathroom.  In the bedroom, one of the bulbs goes out after being on for about one minute.  In the bathroom, one or two bulbs would go out in about a minute also.  If I put conventional bulbs in they stay lit.


texts:
Hello I have a regular 3 wire 120/240 system.
Whilst looking at the service drop and breaker box I noticed the neutral wire seems very small. It is definitely smaller than the two main conductors..
I know the neutral is allowed to be smaller or at least was when the service was installed but it seems too small. Especially considering there is a 30amp outlet for an RV connected the box.
My question is can the neutral be LARGER than the conductors.. for example 1/0 if they are 2/0.
I don't know their sizes but I have some THHN wire that is 1/0
Would make quick work to have an electrician come hook it up and hard to overcharge me for 30 mins of work with me supplying the materials


texts:
I have a single story ranch where a corner of the house I believe was a car port. The roof line and walls all are framed such that it was always under the roof and considered part of the house, however I believe somewhere along the line someone walled it up and made a living space out of it. They did not raise the floor though as it had a separate door. So it was just on the slab/ground level. The two "interior" walls of the space were the old exterior walls of the house as the foundation is cinderblock and follows the walls. The sill and framing go to the edge along those walls as well.

I'd like to incorporate this area into my house and will need to bring the flooring up to the same level to do this. My question is, given the ~11'9" span of the room, can I hang 2x10 boards as indicated in the drawings? The joists will be hanging completely from joist hangers on the left side against the band board of the existing floor. On the right side I would use joist hangers but I believe there will be an actually ~1" or so lip in addition under the end of the joist to the foundation wall that it will sit on.

The exterior walls of the room, as shown, are built directly on top of the foundation sill plate. So can I just attach the joist/band board directly to the wall as indicated to avoid having to somehow temporarily support the roof and rebuild the floor under the wall?

I have a structural engineering coming out next week to take a look at the ceiling joist layout unreleated to this floor project, but am wondering what I might be able to ask him while he is out here related to the floor joists.

Here is the existing room framing.

Here is my proposed flooring implementation where it would hang by joist hangers on the left and right, but the right side would have some amount of support under it from the foundation wall. The span is about 11'9"


texts: What is the point of this doorway "header", and can I simply remove it?

texts:
We're remodeling a room with a severely undersized doorway - it is much shorter than the standard 6'8", so much so that I hit my head on the jamb if I don't duck when walking through it.

After demolition, I discovered a "header" (circled in red) with a good amount of empty space between it and the top plate:

It seems to just be toenailed into the king studs on the side, and isn't supported by anything except the thin jamb strips. Therefore, I doubt it is doing much in the way of supporting or bracing this wall in any way.

Can I just remove this "header", and move the jamb to the bottom of the top plate? Or do I really need to install a new header+jack studs? This is a single-floor house, and the only load on this wall is (perhaps) the roof above. It seems to me like the doubled-up top plate and king studs are more than enough to support the load.

A bigger picture:


texts: I replaced the faucet in the kitchen and my water won’t come back out

texts:
I recently had a hose tear in my sink faucet, so I replaced the whole thing. I got it all hooked up and now the water won’t come out. I even took the connector off and turned the water back on and nothing came out of the pipe either. Could this be debris or is something else wrong?  I have water in other rooms, just not my kitchen sink

It’s mostly all new. The previous owner looks like he replaced most of the house


texts: I'm doing a science project on sink holes and I don't have an idea on how to build one. I want to test different methods of creating a sinkhole.


texts: Can a damaged dishwasher heating element break something else?

texts:
A piece of plastic melted on our dishwasher (66515113K216) heating element, and within a few weeks the heating element failed at that spot. We ran the dishwasher without a heating element for a few more months, drying the dishes by hand, before I ordered the replacement part.

Once installed, the new heating element didn’t work. I can’t imagine multiple things failed at once, unless the fault in the old heating element may have “blown” something else.

I replaced the high limit thermostat as it seemed like the most likely culprit, but no joy.

Before I go and replace every part in this dang thing, I’d like to apply a method to my madness. I do have a multimeter, and both new parts seem to conduct just fine (as does the original high limit thermostat, dangit).

Thanks!


texts: What de-icing products can be used on a patterned concrete walkway / driveway? (Salt causes problems.)

texts:
I came across the following question here: Is there a safe way to de-ice an unsealed driveway?  The accepted answer mentions rock salt being fine for such a driveway (asphalt), and the other answer mentions sand as an one alternative.

Whereas: What to do for a a patterned concrete walkway (or driveway)?  We've heard from a number of sources that regular de-icing salt / rock salt is not safe and will probably cause the concrete to deteriorate over time.

So, ruling out traditional de-icing salt and sand too (we don't find it very effective), what other products are there to de-ice a concrete walkway?

If possible, please describe the chemicals being used in the products mentioned and not just the brand name. I'm also interested in favoring environmentally-friendly products.  Still, the most important thing is to do the job of melting the ice so the walkway is safe for walking on.


texts: How can I meet NEC code for Class 2 at the power supply with multiple strips of LED lighting?

texts:
...The Project...

Install 94 feet of perimeter lighting around a kitchen/dining/living space. The desired product is a color tunable LED strip. Possibly this product but I could use an equivalent product if needed. These things come in 16 foot lengths. So I need 6 strips to cover the installation.

Wiring

I have roughed in seven 16/4 CL2 rated wire to the top of the wall at locations where each 16 foot strip would start. The led strip product indicates that two strips can be chained together, but that seems like a voltage drop risk, so I ran a separate wire for each strip.

PWM Dimming

High frequency > 25kHz PWM dimmers are the only acceptable option for this requirement. We tested the 500hz LED dimmers and they had noticeable flicker at low light levels. There are several DMX decoders that meet this need. For example, this product.

Power Supply

Here is where the going gets tough. How do you meet class 2 power supply requirements for the installation of these products? NEC 725.121 "Power Sources for Class 2 and Class 3 Circuits" seems to require a listed class 2 power supply. Does that mean I need six separate class 2 power supplies, and six separate DMX decoders... One for each strip? That seems wasteful as a single DMX decoder is capable of 8 amps per channel and could power the entire set of 6 strips by itself.

Are there any other options for a compliant installation?

Note The (4) and (5) options of 725.121 are Information Equipment, and a dry cell battery. Neither of which meet this need.


texts:
I have a single-gang switch box (12.5 cu) that has 3 14/2 wires inside of it. I would like to re-wire the switch to be a 3-way switch.

As far as I can tell, the 3 wires are power to the box, power from the switch to the lights and then a 3rd power line to additional outlets (I have yet to 100% verify this).

I was hoping to run 14/3 from the existing switch to the new one and leave the old wiring to the lights alone. That being said, by my count the 3 wires alone should be in a 20.0 cu box so adding in a 4th would be a bad idea.

What alternatives do I have? Do I need to wire the 3-way switch through the lights and to the new switch?

Any guidance is appreciated.

Cheers.


texts:
I am converting a cargo trailer into a camping trailer, including wiring it to have power from and RV hookup.  The most common RV hookup is a 30amp.  Since i don't really need the 30amp power, my plan is to run the 30amp power cord to a load center with a couple 20amp breakers, then run 12/2 wire to 20amp receptacles and light switches.

Does that sound correct?  Am i missing something that would make this setup dangerous in any way?


texts:
Can someone tell me how to troubleshoot this problem.

I have a switch at the end of a circuit that operates my pool pump and its 15 feet away from a 3 prong receptacle that feeds the to the switch.  At the end of the pool season I disconnect the pool pump from the switch and I use electrical tape to insulate each individual wire.

Now here's my problem.  The 3 prong outlet (that feeds power to the switch that controls the pool pump) is use during the winter months to operate a 3 prong winter pool cover pump with a GFI plug.

This pump has worked for the last 2 months now suddenly its tripping the pool cover pump GFI.

I used a receptacle tester that identifies wiring errors and it says the receptacle is wired correctly.  I then plugged a radio in the outlet and it worked but when I plug the 3 prong pump in the GFI on the plug will trip.

Not knowing if the receptacle was defective or damaged I decided to replace it with a new one but the pool cover pump GFI plug still trips.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to trouble shoot or fix the problem?
Thank you,
Dan