texts: I have a double light switch that controls the porch light and outlet below but only with only one of the switches.  What I want to do is remove the outlet from being controlled by the switch all together and install a single switch.  The top switch does nothing so I am guessing it is already wired wrong.  Also the outlet only has power when the porch light is on.  Therefore, on switch of the double switch is running everything.


texts: Installing a deadbolt on a door with a circular hole for the deadbolt location?

texts:
I recently installed two MasterCraft doors from Menards.  It has two holes in the door.  One for the knob and another for the deadbolt.  If you look at the edge of the door both holes are circular where the bolts will hit the strike plate.

I was able to get the door knob installed without issue because the door knob had the option to slip a circular head over the end.  The deadbolt on the other hand does not have this option.  It has a square/rectangle and that is it, while my door has a circular hole.  I went and looked at the hardware store and all the deadbolts looked to have this rectangle insert for the door and none had a circular insert.

Guessing someone has ran into this before do you just take a chisel to it to create an area for a rectangular insert?  I kind of feel like I shouldn't need to do this on a new door.  Maybe I am missing something.

What I am talking about specifically are the holes on the edge of the door as seen in picture above.  As you can see there is a circular and rectangle insert in this door.  My door only has a circular insert for both deadbolt and door knob.


texts: Filling gaps in hardwood floor - what's the easiest way?

texts: I've got an old, beat-to-hell, hardwood floor in my apartment in the kitchen where quite a bit of water ends up on the floor on a daily basis as there's obvious things like a stove and sink, but also a bathtub/shower in the room. As a result of all the water the hardwood floors have developed quite a few gaps between the floor boards. I'd like to fill these gaps and seal them off as easily as possible. How it will look when it's finished is unimportant to me - I just want to know what the easiest way to do it is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


texts: Insulation challenge - exposed wood beams with 6" tongue/groove slats on top form ceiling with attic above

texts:
1950s Los Angeles ranch style house with 32F lows in winter and 95-115F highs in summer. Ceiling above family room has exposed 6x6 wood beams with 1x6 pine tongue and groove slats resting on top.  Above this ceiling is the bare wood slats with an inch or two of blown in insulation.  No paper, no housewrap, no drywall, no other insulation, nothing but dust.  Roof above barely-standing-room attic has turbines and ends of home have gable vents, no soffit vents where roof line meets walls.

Access to attic is through 30x30" entry.

How to insulate above slat ceiling?

After removing existing blown in insulation, I'm thinking:
(1) lay housewrap and use some kind of caulk/sealing around edges imperfect air seal
(2) drywall* screwed to slats with mortar between edges, expanded form all the way around to complete the air seal
(3) blown in insulation on top

Of course, I'll spend time looking for air gaps and use spray foam to seal those cracks.


texts: The two GFCI in the kitchen at the end of a run had no power.  Took them out and noticed no voltage coming into the line run GFCI (so no power to end GFCI either).  The 15 amp circuit breaker for this run indicates that multiple non-GFCI outlets precede the two GFCIs at the end of the run. All of the non-GFCI outlets are working...   I am assuming the line feed from the last non-GFCI outlet prior to the GFCI has been lost (shorted)... if this is right how best to find the short?


texts: Ideas for making a backyard fort moveable

texts: I'm in the planning stage of a backyard fort similar to this, standing on six 4x4 posts with the floor roughly three feet above grade with far more structure than the linked example.  Since this thing will need to be placed within a utility easement, one requirement will be that it can be moved.  I'm thinking of placing skids made of 4x4s under the posts, joining them to the posts with mortises/tenons, then fixing the skids to concrete pilings. Then I can unscrew the fasteners from the pilings and pull the fort out of the easement on demand on the skids. But will a truck pull this beast?  And will the fort be too top-heavy to be moved safely without tipping?  Should I skip the pilings and simply level the ground? Are there any other options for fort mobility that I've overlooked?


texts: I am trying to adjust a shower mixing value. I don't see a brand or model on it. I need to remove the handle. I see a hole on the bottom of the handle as shown in the picture. I can't find a screw or anything else to insert a screwdriver or hex key into. Any ideas how to remove it?


texts: Add a 30A 126V outlet for M/H (temp) plug in!

texts: What to add a 30A 126V outlet in the garage to plug in motorhome sometimes.  Will 12-2 grounded wire work? Or what should I use? Thanks JR


texts: How can I reproduce this painting effect?

texts:
I really like this photowallpaper, but it's quite impossible to import it:

I think - based on my basic but quite good paining skills - I can reproduce it with painting. But..

which type of paint is good for this? I think it should be dense and a little bit "rough"
how can I reproduce the pattern? with brush and sponge?
any general idea?


texts: Do I need an enclosed wall box for a cat5e cable?

texts:
My home builder gave me cat5e outlets in the wall (near the ceiling, for cameras) with just a plain white wall plate. Behind the wall plate is an open back wall box (I think), the cat5e cable and a whole lot of insulation (the pink puff balls kind that go between walls to retain heat). I replaced the wall plate with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL93SLU

I heard somewhere that all holes in the wall with wires/plumbing coming out should be closed with fire insulation foam. Should I get some fire foam and seal it up? Or should I replace the open back wall plate with a close box? Or do I replace the wall plate I have and install an ethernet interface?


texts: What are the differences between Single Stage, Dual Stage and Reverse Osmosis Under Sink Water Filters?

texts:
I'm looking to buy and install an under sink water filter - How do Single Stage, Dual Stage and Reverse Osmosis types compare?

Comparing:

Taste/Odor
Contaminants Removed
Filter Maintenance/Replacement
Price
Ease of installation


texts: Low outlet placement and baseboard issue

texts:
I have a situation where most of the electrical outlets are placed low--about 2 inches above the floor measured from the bottom of the outlet plate.  It originally had base moldings which rose to about a third of the way up the outlet plates, but was cut badly to fit and globs of caulk was used to fill the gaps, etc.

I am going to install laminate flooring and was wondering if the matching quarter round mouldings can be used to the walls without the base moldings (after finishing up the rough spots in the drywall left behind). Floor guy said it would look strange, but I've seen it looking good in a 1940s home.  Is there any issues with this install?


texts: Just got quoted $5000 to service my HVAC system. Is this reasonable?

texts:
I have a 15 year-old York heat pump that gave out at some point during the winter (not sure exactly when as it's a dual-fuel system and nobody noticed until higher than normal gas bills started showing up).  The outside unit does not run at all.  Now that it's spring time,  I called an HVAC company to get a quote on repairs before the summertime heat gets here.

The technician who examined the system said it's clear the system has been abused and was "running rough" for a lot of years.  He said the high-pressure safety switch had failed, and that the expansion valve and condenser fan motor all needed to be replaced.  Since the expansion valve and pressure switch are welded, the repairs would involve draining the whole system of refrigerant and refilling once it's been completed.

Here's a breakdown of what he quoted me:

Expansion valve (incl. draining and disposal of refrigerant): $2100
High-pressure safety switch: $630
Condenser fan motor: $640
Capacitor replacement: $230
Starting components: $190
"AC Re~New" (compressor oil?): $240
Duct cleaning: $475
Chemical coil cleaning: $100
New refrigerant (12lbs): $75

After tax and some miscellaneous small charges I didn't list here, the job is quoted at over $5000, which is almost half the cost of a new system!  That seems ridiculous to me.  Some of this stuff is pretty optional (but should be done anyway -- like the duct cleaning and coil cleaning).  But I'm inclined to believe him about the abuse.  We inherited this house from my mother who bought it 10 years ago and had basically trashed it.  The HVAC system was relatively new at the time (maybe 5-ish years), but I'm sure she's never had it serviced.  I would always replace the filter when I came to visit (I live 4 hours away), and it was always caked in dirt and cat hair when I did.  She said it went out a few years back, but she "knew a guy" that fixed it for her (she always knew a guy).

So maybe he's right about all the work.  Still, I've looked at a few forums and they seem to suggest that an expansion valve replacement should only cost around $500. Also the condenser fan only costs around ~$100 for the part and looks like something I could replace myself if I knew which one to buy, so $640 for that seems pretty egregious.  But I'm obviously no expert here.

Is this a reasonable estimate??


texts: Low water pressure in bathroom in the first floor

texts:
The water tank is just above the first floor of the house. The diameter of pipe from the tank is 25mm and diameter inside the bathroom is 12 mm. Water pressure in bathroom of ground floor is good and the water pressure in the bathroom of first floor is poor. The tank is inside the roof so it cannot be raised. The bathroom has internal piping system so it cannot be removed without breaking the tiles. In such circumstances, if I increase the outside pipe diameter to 50 mm, will it help to increase the pressure inside the bathrooms.
Is there some other solutions?


texts: How to deal with this pair of wires coming out of transformer?

texts:
This monstrosity is in my attic. There is one attic light.

There is a legitimate wire from the light junction 'fixture' to a junction box elsewhere. (It's the white wire that you see behind the light.)

HOWEVER, there is another wire coming out of the light fixture that goes to a transformer...which then splits into two loose wires that have a suspect connection using electrical tape. At places along the two wires there seems to be some wear and tear with the insulator. I probably should use some electrical tape.

I didn't trace the wires to the end but they seem to go towards the front door where there is a doorbell and a porch light. (The roof pitches down near there and there's hardly any space to see where the wires go)

I used a voltage tester and it beeps to indicate that it is hot.

What should I do with this wire?  I want to cut it. How do I figure out what it's connected to?

Do I turn off the breaker to the attic light and then disconnect that transformer? If I do that then the device that is connected to it should stop working.


texts: Problem with GFCI at start of circuit with both lights and two receptacles

texts:
With normal receptacle at first device in circuit all works fine--all lights and both receptacles. (I inherited the circuit--didn't do it myself.)

I thought, "Why not install a GFCI as first device?" to provide protection to the two receptacles that are the 3rd and 4th devices in the circuit.

Well, neither of two NEW GFCIS even acknowledge that there is current being supplied to them. (I assure you that there is 120v there.)

A friend wasn't sure but guessed that the GFCIs are saying "I can't help you with lights; receptacles only."

I obviously didn't know that, but it makes sense. There's no way to provide GFCI protection for lights anyway (I assume).

I've Googled a fair amount and followed many links, but have yet to find someone saying "GFCI is wired to not let this situation work." Every one either "it's okay but it's against code so don't do it" or similar hedging.

Whatever, I'm going back to the normal receptacle where I was on Monday with everything working. BTW, a GFCI tester showed no red and two yellows, which means "CORRECT" for this particular tester.

My only question is: forget code for the moment--should the two GFCIs have worked?


texts:
I need some advice. My dryer stopped working. blown thermal fuse. Replaced. Now when I open the dryer door before the timer goes off the dryer continues to spin.

I've spent an hour or two looking for a short now. That's the only thing I can think of that would allow the door switch (which I tested separate and is working) to be bypassed? I have tested at each component and I find continuity between the chassis and component everywhere (in reg dry mode) I also find that the black wire at the plug has continuity to the chassis (dryer door open in reg high heat mode)

Looking at the wiring diagram I see that neutral is tied to the cabinet, and sure enough I can see that when looking at the dryer. This seems pretty crazy to me?

Any tips on how to track down the short? If there is a short? I am really stumped right now im not sure what to do next.


texts:
I have an in sink errator garbage disposal. It came with the house and I have no idea what was done to it before I owned it.
I do not put large things down the disposal. Just occasional gross things from the sink. The disposal seems to plug up all the time. Water backs up into the sink. Cycling the disposal switch for less than a second will unclog it.
The clog is only happening in the garbage disposal. The water only backs up in the one sink and not both. What makes it annoying is that the dish washer is connected to the garbage disposal and when it's running it will sometimes fill the sink.
Is there something common that will plug the disposal? Is there a way to clean it out really well?


texts: How far apart should nails be when installing baseboards?

texts: I am using a nail/brad gun to install baseboard.  How far should I space the nails?  I want to make sure I hit some of the studs, but don't want to take the time to find exactly where all the studs are, so it seems better to space them a little closer.


texts:
I have a 3 foot length of slant fin baseboard in my bathroom. It was installed in 1979.

It is rusted and I would like to replace it.

Is it possible to replace with slant fin or should I cover it?


texts: How do I find a replacement door lock for this?

texts:
I moved into a newly built home and am trying to replace the deadbolt and the lever below.
But I'm not able to find a replacement lock that replaces my existing locks. All locks I've looked at have rectangular plates that need to be screwed onto the side of the door (see the picture, but I have circular openings on the door with no screws and no rectangular latch plate). I see "Fortis" labeled on one of the deadbolts.

Can anybody help me identify this door lock?


texts: Wood trim and new gutters: Gutters first or paint first?

texts:
I feel that its time for my house to get new gutters. The current ones leak, don't drain completely, need very frequent cleaning, and the damn tree rats chewed through the leaf guards in many places.

I have gotten two estimates (from the same company) so far. These estimates include new seamless gutters, leaf guards, and wrapping my trim in vinyl. The first estimate included removing dental work and replacing it with composite then wrapping the other trim and reattaching the new composite dental work. The second estimate was just to wrap everything including the dental work. Both estimates are quite high, $7500 and $6000 respectively. This also includes wrapping the trim around my small (15x15) front porch. I think I can save a LOT of money by just painting and patching the wood trim instead of wrapping. That also lets me keep the small styling details I enjoy.

My question is what do I do about the wood trim? It needs painted in several areas and possibly replaced/repaired in a few spots. How do I determine if its more cost effective to maintain the wood or have it wrapped in vinyl?

Is the following list the correct order to take to complete this project?

Remove old gutters myself
Paint myself (or hire a contractor)
Have new seamless gutters, downspouts, and leaf guards installed

What timing issues do I need to worry about? With 3 major tasks involved, the completion of one is dependent on the other.

Do I need to worry about weather? Obviously a rain with wet paint is bad. If my house goes without gutters for a week waiting on a contractor, will that be a significant problem?


texts: Are "terminal block" style junction boxes allowed in the US?

texts:
In the UK it seems pretty common to see junction boxes with built-in screw terminals that are used only for splicing wires from 2 or more cables together.
Typical example:

(source)
Sample wiring diagram:

(source)
[These particular links are just examples.]
Are these acceptable for use in the US? (assuming "typical" building codes which I know vary locally).
Given that the jbox is installed in an accessible location and used as per its specifications as to volts/amps, I'm not sure what other factors might determine if these could / could not be used?
Although standard US jboxes are versatile, an advantage of these UK style boxes is that they are quite compact and they assist in making what seem to be very secure connections. Also the round cover is cleverly designed to leave open only as many side 'ports' as there are cables entering; so no holes have to be punched nor covered. Its basically an all-in-one type product for the common splicing situations.
So I've always been surprised that (essentially) the same thing doesn't seem to be available here. They seem DIY-friendly in particular.
(That said, when I lived in the UK I recall many of these were cheap brittle plastic and had to be installed carefully to avoid breakage.)


texts: Turning on light fixture trips GFCI on a different circuit

texts:
When I turn on the light fixture in the bathroom, the GFCI in the bedroom trips and cuts the power in both places. The bathroom and bedroom are on two different circuits, controlled by two separate breakers in the breaker box. If I turn off the breaker to the bedroom, I can turn the bathroom lights on. The bathroom light fixture is controlled by two light switches, like the switches at both ends of a hallway. One switch shares its box with an electronic timer that controls the ceiling fan. The other switch shares its box with a GFCI outlet, but this GFCI in the bathroom isn't tripping--only the bedroom GFCI trips. A three-light tester shows all outlets as wired correctly, and the test button on the bedroom GFCI cuts the power to the bedroom outlets as expected.

I've seen the suggestions about a ground/neutral connection causing this kind of problem, but I can't find any such connection.

Here's the wiring of the switch and fan timer in the bathroom:

Here's the wiring of the switch and GFCI in the bathroom. Note, this GFCI is not the one that's tripping.


texts: Is it safe to have a gas stove on the same circuit as a couple lights

texts:
I've always heard that stoves and ranges should be on their own circuit, but am not sure if that applies to only electric or both.

We have a gas stove and I discovered recently that it is on the same circuit as the kitchen light (nothing big--it's a small kitchen) and one outlet. I want to add the dining room light fixture to it.

Is this safe to do or should my gas stove be on its own circuit.


texts: Are these junction boxes suitable for domestic lighting?

texts:
I’m putting together some junction boxes for domestic lighting using RS own brand DIN terminals in a suitable enclosure (home automation later would favour grouping the wiring into a limited number of JBs with space to accept relays later).

One thing that came to mind was to do with these:

https://famaga.ch/catalog/rs-pro/korpusy-stojki-shkafy

They are the special DIN terminals that have a screw operated clamp to the DIN rail which claims to provide electrical continuity.

How might I decide if these would provide suitable and reliable continuity for the circuit CPC on say a circuit protected by a C10 RCBO? Or do you reckon they are just fine?

Points I’ve considered:

Reliability – these clamp to a plated steel rail – so providing the plating holds and the rail does not corrode, then OK
Clamping action seems positive.

Contact resistance: haven’t attempted to measure yet, but I suspect it would be off the bottom of the range of my Megger.

Fault current – worst case scenario: hundreds of amps but no more than 1kA for a very short time.

There is a little leeway in that the circuit is RCD protected, but I feel it would be bad practice to factor that in as a key design consideration.

What do you folk think of such devices?

Many thanks,


texts: Why is there a beaded tie on new fire extinguishers?

texts:
When I see fire extinguishers these days they seem to have some form of the yellow beaded tie as shown in this photo.

What purpose does this serve? It looks to me like it prevents the pin from pulling out. Hardly something you'd want in a fire. I've never had to use a fire extinguisher in real life, so please forgive my ignorance. Shouldn't the yellow tie be cut off?


texts: What should be done before using a fireplace that has not been used in decades?

texts:
We are moving into a house with a fire-place.
The current tenants (friends of ours),
have been living there just short of 2 decades, and have never used it once.
The house is about 90 years old, so it certainly saw a lot of use once upon a time.

I myself rather enjoy a fire.
Though I've not lived in a house with one, since I was a kid.
Not really planning on using it for heating, but for a couple of times in the winter it would nice to be able to use it just for the enjoyment of the thing.

Is there anything I should do before using it?
Should I be worried about the chimney being blocked?
How would I go about inspecting for that?


texts:
I bought this Delta showerhead almost a year ago. I remember the packaging mentioning a "backflow prevention" feature. Every time I turn off the faucet water streams from the area I've circle below, between the hose and fitting. It's always done this, but up until a few months ago the "leaking" would eventually stop and the shower would be dry by next use. That's no longer the case. I no longer notice water streaming down the hose when I turn off the faucet.

A small amount of iron has built-up around this fitting and I wonder if it's causing the water to leak out slowly. This keeps the shower wet, requiring me to spray it with diluted bleach every few days to keep mold from growing.

A couple of questions:

Is this a typical occurrence with fixtures that have a "backflow prevention feature"?
What is the solution? Assuming the iron build-up is the problem, I could clean it frequently but that requires removing the fixture (which isn't desirable). Are there other options?

If I can't stop it from leaking, I'll have to buy a new showerhead to prevent mold from growing.


texts: What material is this fake wood? How can I fix what's been chipped off?

texts: What material is this fake wood? How can I fix the crap that's been chipped off?


texts: Outlet has ground wire connected to neutral and I am trying to replace it with GFCI

texts: While replacing some old receptacles I found this.  The wiring is old and clearly whomever installed it was trying to trick someone from seeing it isn't grounded.  This is the first in the circuit and I decided to replace it with a GFCI to protect the rest of them (ceiling fan/light, 6 recess lights, outdoor spotlight and two other outlets). The wiring to a GFCI outlet seems straight forward but when I turn the power back on, it keeps tripping. When I push the Reset button, it instantly trips again. All connected lights and outlets are turned off or not being used.  Any advice?


texts: Is frost at the far edges of my attic a concern?

texts:
(I am a first time homeowner doing my first attic inspection.)

The prolonged cold weather in my area gave me a good opportunity to look for problems in my attic yesterday.  The only thing I found that I was unsure about was some frost on the underside of the roof.  It's not very heavy frost, and it is confined to the far edges of the attic.

Is this a cause for concern?


texts: The light stays on after removing a ceiling fan that had 2 sets of wires

texts: I removed a ceiling fan/light to put in a new fixture without a fan.  The box had two cables and each set had a black wire a white wire and a bare wire. I did not keep track of how the wires were ordered.  I thought that I could cap one set of wires from one cable and use the other cable for my new light fixture. Wrong.  The new fixture is up but the light is on but will not turn off at the switch.  The old fan setup had a light that turned on off at the switch and a remote that controlled both the light and the fan. It also had a pull string to turn the fan on and off.  How can I rewire it so the light turns on and off at the switch?


texts: What is the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench?

texts: Obviously impact drivers and impact wrenches are designed for different purposes, but since they both work on the same principle is there some overlap? Is a small cordless impact wrench just a slightly scaled-up version of a cordless impact driver, with a 1/4" square drive instead of a 1/4" hex drive, or are there further differences? Could I buy adaptors to use one occasionally in place of the other, and if so what would be the disadvantages? I can guess a few downsides: the wrench would be heavy and large when used as a driver so not convenient at arms length or in tight spaces; the driver would be underpowered for really heavy-duty wrenching; the wrench might need some care to avoid twisting the heads right off your screws. Is there more to it than that?


texts: Can my incoming water lines to water heater be reversed?

texts:
I shut-off incoming cold water at top of water heater, disconnected the hot side in preparation for new install.  Opened house taps to bleed water lines. The next morning my garage was flooded. The water was coming from the hot side into garage.

Now I have confusion for new install, the side that flooded the garage appears to be the incoming cold--the line comes from the left when facing  the wall.  (I knew the house supply stop valve was not completely closed).

For install would I use the flood pipe for cold???


texts:
I'm trying to figure out the best way (and materials) to carry the sump pump discharge water away so it no longer creates a cesspool beside my garage.

When we moved in 6+ years ago there were old broken down downspouts being used to carry the discharge water up the side of my garage and onto the driveway where it runs off.  The connected downspouts leaked at the seams and were too clogged so nothing came out.

When I tore them out I wanted to originally tie in the sump pump discharge, the garage downspout and install a drain in the yard to catch water at the low point and use an underground pipe to carry the water to the front yard where it grades down.  I'm not sure there is a good place to discharge with an underground pipe(and it would have to run very close to the neighbor's property where they have a mature tree) so that plan has been shelved for the time being but would have been the optimal solution from the effectiveness standpoint.

Back to the original question, what materials should I use? 2.5 in PVC with glued couplings?  I found 2" flexible PVC, would that be a better option?  Is there any way to fasten the pipe so it grades slowly from the back of the house to the front?  Is there a way to fasten the pipe without drilling into my foundation?  I was looking at various hangers and wasn't sure if they could be used upside down in the dirt to hold the pipe at a grade without having to drill into the foundation.

I have a few pictures attached.


texts:
I am trying to replace a bathroom faucet on a pedestal sink, but can't figure out how to remove the faucet handles.  I'm pretty sure the handles must come off from the top, b/c the retainer rings below can't be removed since the fitting underneath is too large.  There is no set screw on the handles and I've tried suggestions seen in other threads and nothing seems to work.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get these out?  I really don't want to have to take the sink out.  But if I can't figure it out, I'll probably pull it out and use a cut-off wheel.

The reason for replacing is that the cold faucet is completely frozen up.  We have very hard water.  I'm thinking this could make the handles harder to remove as well.  Anyway, here are some pics.  If anyone knows anything that might help, please let me know.

Thanks!


texts: What is a NON-self-tapping screw? What does self-tapping mean, really?

texts:
Someone on the site suggested that I use "self-tapping screws", and gave me a link to the Wikipedia page about them.

So, I went there, saw the definition:

  A self-tapping screw is a screw that can tap its own hole as it is driven into the material.

but I know this to be true of a screw in general... and the photos on that page were simply of what I would call "a screw", period:

So what is a NON-self-tapping screw then? How do I tell apart self-tapping from non-self-tapping screws?

Note: I'm not asking about "self-drilling" screws - the ones whose tips look like the end of a metal drill bit. Those are markedly different than what I know as "just" screws.


texts: Thermostat and thermostat system for small business with several units and tenants

texts:
Am the facilities guy in a small church and pre-school.  There are 8 heat pump units through out the church/schoool.  Each has a stand-alone thermostat and they are all different.

I would like to get to a setup where:

Thermostats are set to a schedule managed centrally, preferably cloud solution.
Users can change temp temporarily when in meeting to override but its not permanent.  Has local sensor to see if anyone is present.
That different groups can set the schedule and set points for their part of the system - i.e. the pre-school can set a schedule for when they are in session but it does not override at other times.

I have looked at most of them and:

Most are oriented at home market
Most don't handle different groups
Most assume that all touching of the thermostat is by members of the household and OK.

Any suggestions?


texts: Cut cable tripped breaker and left circuit dead after reset

texts:
I'm installing recessed lighting around my living room. I pulled power for these lights from an outlet circuit in the same room (see bottom right of photo). Everything was going according to plan, until I cut some excess wire with the breaker on but switch off. I'm no electrician, obviously. I thought this would be all right, since the wire was not activating my voltage tester when I installed the fourth recessed light in the ceiling. Nevertheless, when I snipped off the excess wire on the sixth light, the breaker tripped and all recessed lights as well as the devices plugged into the outlets around the room stopped working.

The first thing I did was reset the breaker (twice), nothing works.
Next, I used a multimeter to test Outlet 1 (hot to neutral, hot to ground), and I get a reading of ~250 millivolts but the voltage tester stays silent.
Then I removed the outlet and used the voltage tester and multimeter directly on the wires coming into the outlet. Same result.

I'm almost certain the outlets (and recessed lights) receive power from a two-wire line (dashed orange line) tied into a hot bundle inside the box holding the three-way switch nearest the first recessed light. All wires appear undamaged, and each one set off my voltage tester. But this confuses me, because if there's power in that box and not at Outlet 1, then the problem must lie in that wire. Right? I hope that's wrong, because that would mean tearing out a lot of drywall to replace that wire. It seems crazy that cutting the wire all the way at the end of the circuit could somehow damage the middle of the first wire run in the circuit.

What am I missing? Also, what even happened here? With the switch off, how was that wire at the end of a string of lights energized?


texts:
I'm looking for a certain type of plastic container (around 2-3 gallons) that has a spigot on the bottom and allows you to drain liquid using gravity. I used to see them a lot in the Navy used for cleaning fluids but can't figure out what to search for to find them.

I'm ultimately looking for something I can put liquid into and attach surgical tubing to the "drain" or "spigot" and has an on/off valve.

Does anyone know what these are called or where I can find them?


texts: What could go wrong with washing machine water hammer devices?

texts: I ordered up a pair of water hammer arresters for my washing machine and installed them. The house still shakes, rattles, and rolls when the washer pulses the water. I saved a bit of money by ordering restocks, since it seemed to me that a device with no moving parts except air molecules was a pretty safe bet. Was I wrong?


texts:
I need to run power to my loafing shed for lights, fans and blowers for show livestock. The blowers pull almost 20 amps each so here is my plan.

Underground service using 4 awg thwn in conduit. 130 ft run.
60 amp breaker in main panel
Outdoor Sub panel in shed. The shed is covered on 3 sides and front is open.
2 ground rods at subpanel. May have to install horizontally due to rock in ground
3 circuits coming off subpanel. 2 dedicated for the blowers. 3rd will be for lights, fans and stock tank heater. All outlets will be 20 amp on gfci.
Obviously stock tank heater will be close to water so I will use liquid tite conduit there.

My questions are

Do I need a gfci breaker for the 60 in the main panel? Will 4 awg wire fit in a 60 amp breaker?
Is 4 awg large enough?  Can I use aluminum?
Is 1" conduit large enough for 3 4 awg wires. I will not need 240 so only three wires

I have found hundreds of threads on how to run power to a shed but this is different since it's not completely protected from the weather.

Thank you

Thank you for your help. A couple of things I left off. One is I'm out of city limits and no imspection required, but obviously want to do this safely. Two is the structure is wood frame with metal siding/roof.

After some more research and reading here, I've come to the conclusion of running 1 awg Al as my feeder. My current shop panel this will feed off of is wired up with 2 awg Al.

Another problem is getting the 1 awg Al hooked up to the 60 amp breaker. My plan is using one of the Polaris insulated connectors. Anything wrong with that?  If I understand correctly I can connect my Al with Cu with no problem with corrosion.

If everything I run is 120V, will running 240V to this shed help anything?

I get the idea of using 240V for the blowers, but we take them on the road to shows and there are no 240 outlets available. I will have to buy two sets of blowers. One to use at home and one on the road.

As far as using 60 over 100, I don't know. Just have to pick something I guess and go with it. The 100 sounds like a good idea.

I did look at my neighbors setup today and his is very similar. I am concerned now because his subpanel is wired with 2 awg Al on a shorter run and he said the blowers will trip a breaker on startup during the winter. After the breaker is reset everything is fine. He is also using an extension cord off his panel.  I run into the exact same problem currently when I use my metal chop saw. It trips on startup and works fine after reset.  My idea is to wire up gfi's maybe using 10 awg off my panel.

I do believe the weak link will be one I cannot easily fix. My shop is about 150' from the meter. The electrician who wired it used 2 awg Al up to there. I found some 2-2-2-4 Al mobile home feeder at Lowe's today for $1.50/ft. I think I will use it ran in some conduit unless somebody tells me that is a bad idea.

Again thank you very much to everyone for your help with this.

He's tripping the 20 amp branch circuits.

I do have one more question. The scenario is my shop is concrete floor with metal framing and siding. Panel is mounted to wall via struts. #2 Al ground wire is ran from the meter to the panel. I don't believe they ran a separate ground rod to the panel. I already have a ground rod right outside the building where we had some lightning rods installed. Am i going to hurt anything by running a ground wire from the panel grounding bar to the ground rod?  It's going to cost me a few dollars for 6' of Cooper wire to do it and next to zero effort.

Also was thinking about burying a ground rod in the trench for my water line and use it to ground the water tank (run the wire into the tank) where the heater will be locate. This is what the manufacturer of the heater recommends. Then tie it into the ground on the outlet box where the heater plugs in. Good idea?  I assume it's impossible to have too many grounds?


texts: was it ever legal to use 3 wire cable to operate two circuits one neutral 120 volts?

texts: My house was built in the early 60s, I have 4 circuits that are created by using 2 3 wire cables, each hot leg goes to a 120v breaker side by side in the panel. The neutral goes to the neutral bus. I don't see any way the breakers could have ever been tied together.  The cables split up somewhere but with all the insulation in  the attic I cannot see where the splits are.  I'm replacing my entrance panel and have to install afci and gfci breakers so at the breaker I will end up short one neutral wire for each pair of circuits. Can I use a short piece of wire from the neutral bus or split the one neutral or will I have to re wire the circuits so each has its own neutral. I have the electric company coming Wed to shut of the power, I just noticed this wiring today while labeling the wires.


texts:
Upon starting the heat cycle the inducer motor spins up then shuts down it does this sometimes 3 or 4 times before the burners lite. Sometimes even after the burners lite it seems to shut down prematurely.

I have replaced the flame sensor and the air pressure switch to no avail.

York furnace. model - gy8s080a12uh11c

Video of issue. Problem starts at 30 second mark.


texts: Can a heat pump water heater be vented to the attic?

texts:
This is a very different question than venting a bathroom fan or clothes dryer to the attic (moist air), as the heat pump takes humidity out of the air (routes it to a condensation drain). The advantage of the heat pump is that it draws heat from the atmosphere, but the problem is that the exhaust from the heat pump is cold and in the winter months we don't need (or want) cold air in our laundry room where the water heater is.

The manufacturer (Rheem) gives a room size that is supposed to be large enough to absorb the cold exhaust air and otherwise recommends venting it out. They are generally silent on where "out" is, but I've seen posts on other sites where it's been vented to the attic.

Since it cools the air and removes humidity (through condensation on the pump), this would be an advantage to vent to the attic as it would both dry the air and provide cooling in the summer, yes? My only concern is that (historically) I would never vent anything to the attic, for somewhat obvious reasons, and now I'm faced with a potential advantage and an easier job since the attic is only 3 feet away.


texts:
I am removing a piece of galvanized drain while in the process of replacing the vanity.The galvanized is connected to the abs drain pipe entering the waste stack by a rubber connector. In order to reach the clamp screws, I’ve had to remove drywall from a basement wall, but at least I can now reach it.
Because the new vanity is taller, and since I’m removing the length of Galvanized pipe in the wall, I’m wondering if I should raise the ptrap. Other posts have made it sound arbitrary depending on the fixture height.


texts: Add additional circuits after 3-way switch

texts:
I would like to add a circuit at the far end of a 3-way switched circuit.
I choose to wire the first circuit this way:

I have the source coming in from the breaker to a light switch with 14/2, then continue with 14/3 to the light and then continue with 14/3 to the far switch. What I am now trying to do is power up 2 additional circuits from the far light switch, but because the common wire is switched at the first switch I don't see a way to have the far circuits work independently of the first 3 way switch. Please advise. Thank you.


texts: What is the best way to repair MDF furniture?

texts:
Our kitchen is made almost entirely from MDF.

We have 1 closet where the hinges have pulled out and several drawers where the screws have pulled out. The MDF around the screws has just been eroded so the screws no longer fix in.

What is the best way to fix these screws so they stay in?


texts: Mixing Exposed Aggregate and Stamped Concrete - One Pour or Two?

texts: I'm doing research for a project I'm asking for bids on and I'm wondering how much you can mix decorative concrete treatments.  I want a large exposed aggregate patio, but in order to break up this monolithic slab, i want to add a border.  I have seen plenty of examples of a stamped border around exposed aggregate but I'm wondering how it was done.  Is it done with separate pours - one for the exposed agg, and then another for the stamped border?  Or is it more generally done with a single pours, stamping the border and then taking care not to hit that border with the retarder used to stop the cement from hardening?  If the latter what care must be taken.  In the former (two pours), what is typically done to lock together the two sections and/or why are two pours preferred?


texts: Drywall ceiling crack emanating from/near the outside corner of two interior drywall walls

texts: I have determined that this is not a foundation problem (the cracks have existed for at least two years without getting worse, other than in the winter they open up just a little. No other foundation issues,such as, exterior or interior wall cracks, wood flooring or tile cracks, etc). Crack1 runs about 4' somewhat diagonally from the corner of walls 1a and 1b; i.e. the drywall sheet is cracked. Crack2 appears about 6" from the corner of walls 2a and 2b and runs about 6' perpendicular to wall 2a, along the seem of two drywall sheets. I read an article some time ago (that I now cannot find) that discussed how to brace/structurally support the corner of 2 interior walls and adjacent ceiling joists to prevent drywall ceiling cracks at or near the corner of the 2 walls. Any master carpenter or drywall pro out there who can advise me would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
Looking to improve my basement a bit.  The walls are concrete block, with some kind of waterproofing or sealing paint over them.  The paint is in good condition, no cracks, flaking, peeling, etc. and there are no moisture or mold issues.  The only problem is that the paint used was tinted a hideous shade of green.  Can I just paint over it with latex to change the color, or is there something better to use?  Also, if there's a sprayable option, please let me know.

Thanks!!


texts: what is the proper way to re-roof a home with exposed wood decking all around it ,so that nails will not protrudethrough the decking?

texts: What is the proper way to re-roof a home with exposed wood decking all around it, so that nails will not protrude through the decking?


texts: Do HVAC technicians need to be registered or licensed?

texts:
We had several HVAC companies come out on a Sunday to look at our furnace. Unfortunately, it could not be fixed. Each contractor offered their solution and did not charge us for their time- but if they had to fix it it would be more because it was Sunday. Everyone was consistent and up front about the fees.

However, one contractor demanded $225 for a 10 minute chat; if we used him he would deduct the amount. My question, is this legal? What license, registration, etc is required to do this job? In reflection, my husband realized that the guy asked what the other contractors had said and he would than reaffirm their diagnosis. Looking for feedback. Thank you.


texts: Multiple GFCI receptacles, Fridge is tripping one it ins't plugged into

texts:
I recently put a fridge in my garage, the outlet I am using I discovered is on the same circuit as the bathroom indoors across a hall. I believe the previous owner installed it as he is a 'contractor' and did a lot of work on the house.

There are 3 outlets on the circuit, all 3 have GFCI receptacles. I'll call them, A,B, and C. A is in the garage, B and C are in the bathroom. The fridge is plugged into A, nothing is usually plugged into B or C unless we have guests stay with us. When the fridge is plugged into A, within 48 hours it will trip the GFCI on B. A and C remain untripped.

Does anyone have an idea of why this might be happened and what I can do to fix it.


texts:
I am buying a condo and it has a small deck.  There is a sliding glass door from the kitchen to the deck and it is stuck closed.  Stuck as in won't move even a fraction of an inch.  A couple of us tried and it wouldn't give at all.  I think it probably hasn't been opened in years.

There's nothing obviously wrong with it, such as being rusted or painted shut.  If this makes any difference it is about 30 years old.  One possibility that occurred to us is that the (cheap-looking) lock is stuck in the "locked" position.  There is an itty-bitty lever, and it will move, but not very far.  Less than 45 degrees.

Is there anything to do to diagnose what's wrong without breaking it or, probably worse, having it end up stuck in the open position?

More info: yes, having the seller take care of it would be ideal, but the seller has already moved out of state and will probably just knock the price down a bit in return for me doing the repair.  I'm not sure how big a deal this is or how much money to ask for.


texts: Why wouldn't other receptacles work after I changed a receptacle?

texts: One of my outlets was getting very hot so I took it apart, cleaned it because it was very very dirty and changed the outlets. It stopped getting hot and the tester said it was correct but now the other outlets do not work at all. Why?


texts: SimpleHuman plastic slim trashcan cover won't stay on

texts: I've got a SimpleHuman 40 liter plastic slim step can (http://www.simplehuman.com/40-litre-slim-step-can-black-plastic) and the lid will not stay on. When I press the foot pedal the cover pops off. Have examined the cover along with the hinges on the trash can and there does not appear to anything wrong with it. Has anyone seen this before?


texts: What could be wrong with my Frigidaire dishwasher?

texts:
I have a Frigidaire Professional Series 4300 series AquaSurge with Speed Clean. It seems to start running fine, but then intermittently pauses for varying lengths of time. This usually results in hot, steaming, sometimes-wet…dirty dishes. Sometimes it cleans fine, but this has turned into a rare occurrence. More often than not, the detergent tab can be found ejected but undissolved, somewhere at the bottom of the dishwasher.

I've tried troubleshooting this myself by sticking a camera and light inside and running a cycle. Here is what happened:

0:00 - set the program, shut the door, loud droning sound with nothing visible happening inside

1:00 - sound stops, and nothing happening

2:35 - opened door to have a look

2:55 - shut door and water immediately starts flowing into the dishwasher

4:25 - lower arm starts spinning and spraying

7:30 - upper arm starts spraying but not spinning, top mini arm is spinning and spraying

7:44 - water pressure of upper arm starts varying between normal and low, and top mini arm stops spinning and spraying

7:55 - water stops flowing out of upper arm

10:48 - bottom arm starts spinning / spraying again

12:20 - bottom arm stops, upper arm starts spraying (but not spinning), top arm is spinning / spraying

13:48 - upper and top arms stop abruptly and bottom arm starts shortly after

15:30 - bottom arm stops and upper arms going again

16:50 - upper arms stop, nothing happening

33:15 - my camera stops recording nothing

Any ideas what might be wrong with this thing, or what else I can try to get a better idea?


texts: How do I choose a Home Inspector and Inspection?

texts:
I'm purchasing my first house, and I'm researching into the inspection process.

I'd like to ensure a good inspection/inspector:

Reading reviews could be valuable, but given that defects may not reveal themselves until years later, reviews may just be based on how good their customer service was
Some sort of certification would be great, but my state (Utah) doesn't require any, and I have no idea if there is some sort of "standard certification"
There appear to be different types of inspection (I've heard of "general", "visual", or various topical ones like "mold" or "electrical").

How should I select a good inspector?  Does this matter, or are most inspectors pretty reliable?  Is there anything I should avoid?


texts: Grounding and neutral in a well pump shed

texts:
I am working on a pre existing pump shed. The shed is 150 feet from the main panel.
For some reason the neutral has dropped. It is probably damaged.
The pump still works because it doesn't require a neutral. But the plugs and lights stopped working a few years ago.
It is too long to pull a new wire easily.
So I am thinking of driving a ground rod anyway to take care of poor bonding.
Is it possible to drive a second rod for the neutral, or do I need to figure out a new path back to the main?


texts: Is It Okay to Connect Two Water Heaters in a Series (so that water from one flows into the other)?

texts:
Our project is to install a 50-gallon hybrid water heater. Our existing 38-gallon electric water heater is too small and we do not know how old it is. It cannot fill our very large bathtub.
The existing unit is located in a small space below a stairwell, behind our clothes dryer. There is not enough space to install a larger unit in that location. It is, however, near the garage where there is plenty of space (after a few modifications). So our idea is to install a hybrid heater there.
Instead of simply removing and replacing the existing unit, we are wondering about the feasibility of continuing to use it for additional capacity. Our thought is to connect the two heaters in a series with the old unit "downstream" from the hybrid heater.
We will add the hybrid heater regardless of whether we continue to use the old unit. We do not know how old the existing heater is, so maybe it would be best to simply remove it. We are just thinking that it probably would not use much electricity keeping already hot water hot, but it would significantly increase the overall capacity. Our bathtub is so large that we are not even sure if a 50-gallon heater will be adequate.


texts: Can I use a polarized cord and plug to rewire a non-polarized clock?

texts:
I have a clock that has a pretty corroded plug. The clock plug is not polarized. You can plug it in any which way.

I also have a spare electric cord that is wired with a polarized plug.

I'd like to use the spare cord to rewire the clock.

I can see how wiring a device that expects a polarized plug with a non-polarized plug would be a Bad Idea. But I'm pretty sure putting a polarized plug on a device that does not expect it won't hurt.

But I want to double check that. Am I missing something here?


texts: How can I temporarily stop a bathroom water leak?

texts:
I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom and currently have all the cement backerboard torn down. I had to remove the sink in order to get a good portion of the tile off. Unfortunately, my old house has no way of shutting off water to the bathroom so I had to completely shut off water to the house.

I added water shutoff valves to the 1/2" pipes for the sink to stop the water. The valve on the hot water pipe has sealed fine with no leaks. The valve on the cold water pipe continues to leak no matter what I do.
Where it's leaking

I've installed it using teflon pipe joint compound. For a few hours it's fine with no drips. However, I woke up this morning and it was steadily dripping all over the place. I'm not sure what to do to keep this from making a mess.

It only needs to be temporary as, in the next couple weeks I'm going to replace most of the plumbing in the bathroom—I just need to be able to have water on in my house without also making an indoor swimming pool!


texts: Is it safe to harvest rainwater that fell on solar panels?

texts:
I am working on creating blueprints for my new home. My plan is to have both solar panels on the roof and a rainwater catchment system that directs water from the roof into some tanks in the basement. I expect to have a filter (not sure if it will be ceramic, fiber, etc.) somewhere between the tanks and the pump that will push the water into a bladder tank before it reaches the household pipes.

I know you can have solar panels on the roof, and I know you can harvest rainwater from the roof, but is there some health risk in harvesting rainwater that has fallen on solar panels (and the racks, cables, etc.)? Do I need to worry about any chemicals being leached into the water? If so, what would be the best way to filter them out? I plan to use this rainwater for drinking and cooking.

Note: I already plan to have a filter for things like bird droppings and other biomatter. My question is specifically about substances that could leach off the solar panels or any related hardware.


texts: Can I use a shop-vac for dust collection in a workshop?

texts:
I have a small workshop with a palm sander and a table saw. Both have dust collection ports and I'd like to take advantage of that. I've only seen short glimpses of dust collection systems on woodworking shows and I see (what I would assume to be) expensive, large, quiet, filtering vacuums. I'm a weekend woodworker at best so I don't need anything very elaborate but I'd like to keep the majority of the dust contained.

Can I just hook a shop-vac to the dust "output" on those devices or could that damage the equipment? Maybe the shop-vac and this?


texts: Splice to repair damaged 100A aluminum feeder

texts:
I recently drilled through the floor to run a CAT6 cable and hit the main feed to our panel. I'm in a duplex with a meter main panel with 2 meters and 2 100A breakers, one for each unit. The cable that runs from the meter main to the sub-panel in my unit got damaged. Basically a big arc and flash as I bridged the hot and neutral, the tip of the drill bit was vaporized.

It did not trip the main 100A breaker. I temporarily fixed it by opening up the cavity between the ceiling and the floor, and insulating the damaged conductors after I removed the sheathing. I estimate that maybe 20% of the conductor is locally removed when I hit it with the drill. I'm not sure what the gauge of the wire is. I've included some pictures from the sheathing where I could see it. I think it is #1 or #2 aluminum. Based on the fact that it supplies the entire dwelling, I think the cable needs to be rated for 83A, even though it is a 100A service. I've learned in the past on this forum that "2AWG aluminum SE is allowed to carry 90A when terminated on 75°C lugs as per 338.10(B)(4)(a)".

I would like to repair the cable, and I'm thinking that the inline splicers from Polaris can be used for this, specifically a ISR-1/0. I would need to put a box around this to make it an accessible junction box.
Would this be an acceptable permanent repair, or are there better ways to fix this cable? And what do you think is the gauge of the cable?

Thanks


texts:
So I'm attempting to replace an old light fixture with a new one I got from home depot. The light fixture is at the top of a stairway, there is a switch at the bottom of the stairs as well as the top of the stairs that control the light. Going into the overhead box there are 3 pairs of black/white/ground wires. Only on black wire is hot, every other wire has no voltage. Between the two switches are a set of  black/white/red/ground wires. The circuit that the light is on also goes to a small bathroom upstairs as well as a bedroom. How should I proceed wiring this?
I'll attach a few pictures to this to hopefully better clarify what i'm looking at.


texts:
The paint applied to a section of timber cladding (outdoor) has failed to adhere to the to the timber as evidenced in the photos below:

.

The paint was applied in the same year as the timber was installed, which is approximately 2 years ago. The peeling/flaking stated appearing within a year and exhibits worst conditions on south/south-westerly elevations (where the sun shines most in this side of the world).

The timber is reportedly Douglas Fir (unclear if it was treated or untreated), and the paint is Bedec Barn Paint (Acrylic based), which appears to have good reviews.

I do not have the history of how the paint was applied (how many layers, whether any primer was applied, whether it was brush painted or other,...).

The photos above show:

different degrees of peeling/flaking (not uniform across all planks.
There appears to be a correlation with the wood grain and the level
of peeling
Peeling follows grain pattern
Same as above (no peeling between grains)
Same as above

Any suggestions on:

what the cause(s) of the peeling/flaking may be?
how to remedy?
what further questions to ask from the contractors who conducted the work that would help establish the above?
any tests you would suggest would help with the above?


texts: Which flat roofing system requires the least maintenance?

texts:
I am a board member of my townhouse homeowners association and our townhomes are unfortunately very tall (need a lift or 60 ft ladder to access the roofs) and also the builder made the roof one single contiguous roof (unusual for townhomes, common for condominiums). As such, the Association is responsible for the roofs.

The original installed roofs, which are modified bitumen, are failing very early in life (around 7-8 years). The early failure seems to be attributed to both poor installation and lack of regular maintenance. We've been given different stories from different contractors regarding whether replacement is necessary, or repairs are possible... but even those who say repair is possible, they all say modified bitumen requires a minimum of annual maintenance, if not more frequent than that.

Unfortunately, due to the height of our roofs, it limits the number of contractors who can do the work or requires the expensive rental of a lift. So we are going down the path of replacement, and want to install the roof that will require the least maintenance.

Which flat roofing system is the most maintenance free?


texts: Oven has 2-prong plug plus earth wire. Socket is modern 3-prong. How to connect?

texts:
My 110V toaster oven has a 2-prong cable. Also, the oven's chassis has a screw with a connected green/yellow earth wire, which I want to ground.

My wall socket is a modern 3-prong with earth and all.

Is there a special adapter that can convert the 2-prong plug + earth wire into a 3-prong plug? Is that the right way to go?

Thank you!


texts: AC compressor makes strange constant noise, won't run

texts: My Comfortmaker AC compressor outside makes this strange sound when I turn it on, and the fan in the compressor doesn't run. https://vocaroo.com/i/s0rx9CsN4XaQ Every few seconds it also makes the sound you can hear at 0:06, which turns off after 1 second, and this cycle keeps going until I turn the system off. Any help you can provide on what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Can the drain pipes in my kitchen soffit be relocated into the wall?

texts:
I'm in planning stages for a major kitchen remodel. Home built in 1984 with PEX plumbing, all electric, etc. We would like to demo the kitchen soffit (bulkhead) to make the ceiling level and install updated cabinetry. I cut a couple holes in the soffit to see what's in there. On one side there's some electrical wiring and PVC drainage pipes heading up to 2nd floor. On other side is some more PEX plumbing and an HVAC vent. I've attached some photos (but can add more if it helps). I would be comfortable removing the cabinets and demolishing the soffit drywall/framing. However, if I do that, would a professional plumber/electrician be able to relocate the plumbing/wiring to be behind the wall/in the ceiling? I don't want to demo everything only to find out that I need to put the soffit back on because of some permanent construction realities.

UPDATE (03/17/2020): Alternatively, instead of removing the entire soffit to the ceiling, would it be possible to raise the soffit ceiling by about 6"-7" and take it in about 5.5" to create a reduced soffit that could be covered with crown moulding? This would make room for 36" cabinets and still leave about 1" of clearance from the bottom of the DWV pipe to the top of soffit framing. There's still the electric and PEX issues, but those seems less apocalyptic. All pending measurement/concurrence from a licensed plumber.


texts: What is the most efficient way to replace a 14" rough-in toilet with a 12" rough-in toilet?

texts:
I want to replace my failing 14" rough-in toilet. It seems the world has moved on to 12" rough-in as a standard. Would it be crazy to put a 1" thick board on the wall to provide some stability to the tank and install a 12" rough-in toilet?

Also, the toilet appears to be 50 years old but, being ceramic, the tank is still viable. Would a 50 year old tank from a 14" rough-in work with a modern 12" rough-in?


texts:
Does it matter in terms of energy usage whether my gas heater is set to higher or lower temperature?

Situation:
- 2 floor house, all water radiators heated by the same gas boiler system

-1st floor has gas heater, radiators without Thermo heads, and a single thermostat attached to heater set for day/night temperatures (21/19C). 1st floor is also not renovated (yet) and has higher heat loss through old windows, cold floor (not enough isolation from a wet basement I think),etc.

-2nd floor has radiators with thermo heads each set individually but basically within the same range as downstairs thermostat day setting.

Now, I can set the gas heater to heat the water in a range of approx 30-60C.

The question is, under the above conditions, does it matter, in terms of gas expenditure, if I set heater for higher water temperature or lower?

If I set it for lower, it will take longer to heat the rooms, but (I assume) use less gas during heating process. In addition, it only needs to turn on every now and then when the temperature drops below thermostat point.

I guess I can try to look at gas meter one way and then another, for a week or so, with taking in account also outside temperatures, but is there maybe some rule of thumb?


texts: How to repair cement/flowable-fill slab cracks

texts:
I have a 5o yr old condo. The second floor is a cement or flowable-fill slab. There are cracks in areas and a pit in one area.

Can I repair the pit and cracks or do I need to tear it all out?

[![enter image description here][1]][1]

[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/9kHIF.jpg


texts: Adding a 110v circuit off 220v spa wiring

texts:
I have a hot tub installed with 4-wire 50 amp service, with the GFCI 2-pole breaker at the main panel, and a simple non-fused pull disconnect switch subpanel near the hot tub.
I want to split off a 110v line with a 10 amp breaker and receptacle at the subpanel for LED lighting. Is this possible without running more wire from the main panel? Can a branch circuit be placed downline from the GFCI?


texts: Where can I get a threaded wooden/metal rod for an adjustable piano stool?

texts:
I want to make a height adjustable stool, like a piano stool, of the simple screw/rotate type, but I don't have a lathe (or anything like enough skill) to turn a thread in wood myself.

Is there anywhere I could obtain a length of threaded wood of a large enough diameter ready made? Alternatively, if Wood is too hard to obtain (I've only seen a few examples with wooden screws) a metal equivalent would be OK.

Also, what should I be searching for? (Name), typing "wood screw" into Google obviously isn't going to work).

I'm in the UK, but a USA source would be OK too (I have relatives who could accept a delivery stateside)


texts: How to level a sloping concrete slab with a 2” difference?

texts:
I know this sounds bad and I need to give some backstory to not sound off the alarms... I’m going to give the main question first and then backstory below so you know I’m not crazy.
Question:
We have roughly a 10’ x 10’ area on a semi-basement/semi-walkout-level of our house that slopes 2” down from one end to the far corner. This was carpeted and we are now refinishing with luxury vinyl planks, but we want the subfloor to be level and get rid of this crazy dip. Self-leveling compound seems only good for a 1” dip? Can we do several layers of self-leveling concrete? Should we try to frame up and pour concrete or is there an easier/better approach?
Backstory:
Shortly after we moved into our house (now 4 years ago) we noticed a sloping corner of the house with all the furniture now out of the house. We weren’t sure how we or the home inspector missed this, but we were afraid of the worst with foundation issues after we noticed this. Still, a lot of things didn’t add up for it to be an immediate concern, so we waited until this year to get it checked.
Long story short - it was determined by foundation repair engineers that there are no active foundation issues. The house was completely renovated 15+ years ago and that gives a lot of evidence that the house at one point was either sinking or settled badly, but that it was corrected and stabilized and not moved in the last 15 years. We spoke to the prior owners and the home builder that did this renovation and it all checked out. The engineers drilled holes into the slab and put an endoscope below the sloped section to confirm that there was no gap between the slab and the soil below. We asked about mud-jacking or raising the house up with piers, and they said that was unnecessary... And even if foundation work was needed, there would be no raising the level of the house since that would create a bunch more issues with all the new stuff built into the house after the renovation. In other words, our house is stable, but very crooked in this corner. I asked about us filling things in on top if that would cause problems, and they said not to worry about it.
Part of this question is me not feeling comfortable doing a bunch of heavy concrete work myself and wondering if there’s another way.


texts: Why would my pressure reducing valve fail after repairing my water main?

texts: I had a main water line bust on my side of the water meter. After fixing it and turning water back on to my house my water heater T&P valve kept releasing spurts of water which found out it was caused by increased water pressure. My PRV was installed two years ago and when i had my plumber come to check out my problem he tested the pressure and found that i had 160 pounds running through my plumbing system after PRV. I have seen problems caused by PRV's going bad and usually it causes a decrease in pressure. What would cause one to fail and cause more pressure? Is this common and what would cause this to happen in PRV that is only two years old?


texts: How can I keep my doors from expanding in the heat?

texts:
During the summer months, some of the doors in my house become difficult to open and close. I can get them to shut by either slamming the door or by pulling upwards on the doorknob before opening or closing the door.

My assumption is that this happens because the heat causes the wood to expand. But since it only happens to some doors, is there anything I can do to prevent it?


texts: Rental - how to repair shower frame cleaned with bleach in error

texts:
I made a big mistake today when cleaning the shower. I used bleach on the frame, which I think is fibreglass but I'm not sure. As you can see from the pictures it appears to have taken the coating off it and has discoloured it badly.

I am in a rented property so this is a big concern. I need to try and fix this myself or do something else.

Can this be fixed? If so, what do I do and buy? I thought the frame may be fibreglass but the first comment on Imgur said it isn't?...

https://imgur.com/gallery/t9x5q


texts: Vapor resistant ceiling fixture installation

texts: I am installing vapor barrier on a ceiling using poly, acoustic sealant, and a vapor-tight ceiling fixture (FN-426-C-V - pictured below). Note the ring of soft foam around the circumference of the fixture. Everything seems fairly straightforward about the process, but I'm not sure how to marry the poly to the fixture (or whether I even need to). I'm assuming I need to stay outside of the box, and imagine that I must need to fasten the poly to the outside for the box using tuck tape or acoustical sealant, but I can't find any information pertaining to the installation of this product. What is the best code-compliant way to fasten poly to this fixture?


texts: How much sturdier are through mix pavers vs face mix?

texts:
I’m adding pavers to a section in the backyard ~320 sqft worth around concrete surrounding a pool.

I found face mix pavers but am hearing that I should use through mix pavers.
I’m not seeing much online on the benefits of one over the other. Any specs or knowledge would be appreciated.


texts: How can I troubleshoot faulty motion-sensor security lights on a timer?

texts: I have around 5 security lights with motion sensor around the house but they are not working, and I couldn't figure out where the switches are. Finally, in the garage I found this timer (attached). I can't think of any other thing in the house can be the switch for the security light, but it seems damaged, because the odds of 5 security lights go bad should be very low. So I guess my first question is, is this thing typically used as switch for security light? If so, what is the best way to troubleshoot this?


texts: Sealing foundation blocks and gap between drywall

texts:
I am trying to paint my garage and noticed that there are gaps where drywall meets cinder blocks and between drywall and concrete slab in the garage. Is there a way I can seal and paint the cinder blocks to make it look uniform. Also it makes life easy by not holding on to dust and cob webs when the blocks are sealed, not to mention the ease of cleaning with water when needed.
Whenever I do some woodwork in the garage, its a challenge to clean the area, on top it the blocks appear to absorb water when washed with hose.


texts: Pocket door that doesn't require much overhead space

texts: We are installing a door between a bedroom and a bonus room (which used to be a patio). The opening used to be an exterior doorway in a concrete block house. The opening is 80.5, and we would like to put a pocket door here; however, because it is concrete, we can not get any extra height. All pocket doors I have found require 4.5" beyond the height of the door (which would mean we would end up with a 76" opening). Are there any options for pocket doors that don't require so much space on top? We have plenty of depth to work with because the wall is thick.


texts: Sink is coming off the wall (visible separation). What material do I need to "glue" it back?

texts:
As you can see in the picture, my sink is "tilting", or coming off the wall.

It is still in place but if pressure were to be applied, it would fall down completely I reckon.

I can push it towards to wall, it sits back but naturally comes off again.

What kind of gel, sealant etc. or such material I can buy and apply to glue it up there again?

I'm hoping something exists that is not cement that I'd need to prepare.


texts:
Article 400.12 forbids the usage of flexible cords for fixed wiring, but what makes an NM-B cable made out of stranded 14ga THHN non-flexible?

EDIT:

Terms 'cord' and 'cable' are used interchangeably in that particular article.


texts: Securing slate tiles over outdoor cement slab

texts:
Here's a cement patio that was covered decades ago with slate tiles.  Some along the edges have popped up.  Underneath the popped tiles we can see that the slab has cracked.

What are proper and/or expedient ways to resecure these tiles to the slab?


texts:
I have three casement windows facing a busy street in an urban area and noise does get into the room. I noticed that the window panels (moving parts) meet the frame directly, meaning there is no gasket of any type.
Do you think applying 1/8" foam weatherstripping tape along the perimeter of the frame where the window forms a seal will reduce the noise coming in?


texts: Is there a good way to store and organize try/combination squares?

texts:
I have a bunch of try/combination squares that I would like to store/hang in my work area but I cannot figure out a good system. Can someone recommend a good method to keep combination squares readily available and protect them from getting damaged? I would like to have at least the following within reach of my bench:

1 × 6  inch try square
2 × 12 inch try square(s)
2 × 12 inch combination square(s)
1 × 24 inch protractor square
1 × 24 inch straight edge / ruler (bonus points)

Updated information to address question:

I do have a pegboard in front of my bench. That is what is so confounding. I have not been able to think of a way to securely store/hang them on the peg board. Despite the existence of the peg board answers do not need to utilize the pegboard.


texts: Is it ok to pad a washing machine against the adjacent cabinetry?

texts:
Not sure how to explain this.. have a new wash machine and it has to go under a counter in small space. The floor is in terrible condition (rotting old plyboard and cork), uneven and falling to bits, so did my best to level the machine. But it was still vibrating on spin.

So i just put some old dvd boxes between the sides of the machine and the counters next to it, effectively packing it in super tight.

Now it doesn't vibrate, even though its not perfectly level.

Question is, is this bad for the machine? Are they supposed to be allowed to vibrate their casing a bit? Or is it ok? Thanks. It's a magnetic drive bosch btw.


texts: How can I prevent an outside lock from freezing?

texts:
I store a bunch of the "outside stuff" in the shed for the winter.  Mainly things that I only use when the weather is warmer.  It pretty much remains locked up for the winter.  Occasionally though, I have to run out there to get something in mid winter, and the lock is always frozen shut.  I can get in by warming the lock up, heating the key, or using that spray deicer stuff.  But is there any way to prevent this?  Are there locks that would not allow this to happen?

The lock is one that is built into the handle, where the handle is vertical with the key in the center.  When unlocked, it twists to a horizontal position.  It is not a separate lock.


texts: When pouring concrete, is it safe to add large rocks to increase volume?

texts:
Backround

I'm going to pour some concrete to anchor a swing set. The base of the swing set that is being anchored is two 4x4s with a 2x4 footer crossed perpendicularly to the 4x4s.

I have a bunch of large softball-sized rocks in my yard. I was thinking I could buy less concrete mix, and get rid of some of these rocks, if I threw some of the rocks into the wet concrete.

I assume the concrete will harden around the rocks and they will set together to become a solid mass.

Question

Is my assumption correct? or will the rocks damage the integrity of the concrete anchor?

Here is a drawing of posts and anchor (with rocks depicted)

Update

I poured the cement in June 2015 (about a year and a half ago). The swingset is still standing strong.

The biggest takeaway from this experience is the consistancy of wet cement. I assumed it was like latex paint, but it was more like thick oatmeal or damp sand. It didn't really pour and fill up all available space. I had to spoon it in with a shovel and pat it down into place around the posts.


texts: How do I add a quiet blower or fan to a gas fireplace?

texts:
I have beautiful fireplace in my family room.  It is gas rather than wood burning, and it vents straight outside.

Due to the nature of how it is vented, I don't really get much heat from it, and I think I am losing a lot of the heat it could be generating during winter (and therefore wasting a lot of energy and increasing my cost.)

After reading my fireplace manual, it appears that I can install a blower that can move heated air from around the exhaust back into the room. There were no instructions on how to do so, however.

What would it take to install a blower for my fireplace, and where might I find a very quiet blower? The noise level is an important factor, as I've heard some fireplace blowers that are extremely noisy, and given the acoustics of the room, I worry it will drown out sound from the entertainment system.


texts: what is the likely cause of a single fluorescent tube not working in a light fixture with a ballast that supports two tubes?

texts:
So I've got a warehouse with many fluorescent tube fixtures.  We are slowly transitioning piecemeal to LED as we run out of replacement ballasts and bulbs.

I've got a fairly simple troubleshooting technique:

Are both tubes out?  Probably the ballast.
Test the fixture with a known-good tube.
If known-good tube works, then the ballast is fine.  Replace both tubes.
If the known-good tube doesn't work, the ballast is bad.  Replace ballast or retrofit to LED.
Is only one tube out?  Then the ballast should be fine (???).  Replace the bad tube.

So here's where things are weird.  I've got two fixtures now where one tube works, and the other one doesn't.  But even when I replace the bad tube with a known-good tube, it doesn't work.

I've checked the wiring and it's fine.  On one fixture I even saw the tube "burn out" - and that fixture has been chugging along for years without any intervention.  It would be weird for it to suddenly develop a wiring problem out of nowhere.

I guess my question is, is it possible for a ballast that supports two tubes to fail on one tube only?  I didn't know this was a failure mode for electronic ballasts.  But maybe it is an internal wiring problem...


texts:
Basically I've constructed a raised shed foundation using piers concreted into the ground, however they are out of square by 2 inches in opposite corners, so the shape is a slight rhombus. See below circled in red, the same has happened in the opposite corner.

The parallel piece on top is square, so I could either continue building on top of this and leave the overhanging piece visible (how could I hide/cover it?) or potentially add sistered joints on the shorter joists to bring the structure square (best way to do this?).

Repositioning the piers at this point isn't really going to be possible.

Please suggest anything else I haven't considered.

Cheers


texts: Do you have to mount the main electric panel on a piece of plywood?

texts: Do main panels have to be mounted on a piece of plywood? Can it be mounted in between two studs then insulating fiberglass behind it?


texts: What does a novice DIY'er need to know before building a wall higher than 8' (14.5' feet to be exact)?

texts:
I came upon this question, but it is regarding industrial space:

How do you frame a wall more than 8-10 feet tall?

Therefore, I am asking a new question that pertains to my residential situation.

The skinny:  I want to frame a massive wall along my staircase.  In the pic below, that whole area is going to be a new wall with exception to the doorway which is marked and obviously the entry way to the kitchen will still be open.  I know that your typical wood stud frame is about 8' tall, so I don't know if I need to stack two frames or create 14.5'-tall frame.  Don't laugh at me if that sounds utterly ridiculous.  Remember, I am a novice DIY'er with ambitions.

So, before I decide to have contractors come out and provide estimates, I am wondering if this could be a DIY job.  Therefore, what caveats do I need to be aware of before attempting this myself?  What tools/materials should I have at my disposal?

It seems like I am going to have to build it along the existing staircase wall.  If so, does the bottom plate need be fixed to the floor?  Could I fasten the new frame to the existing wall?  The ceiling is vaulted at probably a 45-degree angle, so how would the top plate need to be fastened to the beams along the ceiling?


texts: If I use a waterproof membrane, do I have to use tile?

texts: if I use Aqua Defense or Redguard to waterproof my shower can I just paint a natural color on the floor, or do I have to put tile down.  What kind of paint could I use that would not peel up


texts:
I'm putting in baseboards in my kid's bedroom and have only been able to find the profile I want in MDF. I would prefer wood as I understand it is more durable. I've gotten conflicting information re MDF prep and want to make sure it is done right the first time.

We live on the West Coast. What is the proper prep? Do we need to seal the ends of the boards and prime back of boards? Is using MDF apt to be a problem?


texts: How to deal with halogen lights hurting your eyes?

texts:
I have gable roof and there are 4 halogen lights on ceilings. If I am sitting upright, it's good but due to the angle of the ceiling, if I move slightly to any direction the light goes directly to my eyes.

Even if I look at my tablet or phone the light reflection hits my eyes. It's very annoying and I searched to find some sort of diffuser but they are only used for light bulbs and halogen lights are flat and screwed inside the wall/ceiling. Any solution that helps is appreciated.

I am looking for something that is also good looking. I don't want to have something like a patch on the ceiling.


texts: How much surface area do you need on studs to hang drywall?

texts: How much surface area do you really need to hang drywall on studs? I received a shipment of lumber, and most of them have wane on both edges of the studs, which means I can't "bury" the wane on the non-drywalled side.  I think a little bit of wane should be fine, but at what point will the drywallers not have enough width or depth to hand their drywall?


texts: How can I secure a metal frame to polyurethane foam?

texts:
I have used polyurethane foam to cover a 5 cm (2 inch) horizontal gap between a metal door and the ground. Polyurethane foam , as I know , needs to be covered with cement in order to withstand the corruption. In order for cement to apply I am going to use a metal frame. I am not sure how to try to stuck the metal frame to the foam in order to be able to use the cement then.

Below is a photo to get a better idea.


texts: Small atrium in 3rd floor of building has a storm drain that's leaking down to the crawlspace. How do i fix this?

texts:
My building (old 4 unit Victorian) has a small atrium on the 3rd floor with a storm drain that's leaking all the way down to the crawlspace underneath the building.
When it rains, i can hear light drips of water inside my walls underneath the atrium (2 floors down).
We had a plumber come by to snake the storm drain, and it does sound like less water is dripping  now, but it's still not 100%
Any suggestions on how to address this without completely tearing out the walls in 3 floors??


texts:
I have an instant tankless water heater, stibel-eltron dhc12, and want to protect the heating element from the high mineral content in my water.

A simple strainer may be good enough or a filter.  What can I simply install on the supply side, which is 1/2" braided line?


texts: Can I use a universal 22" wood saw for cutting studwork?

texts:
I'm a newbie and do not have much experience with sawing, or working with wood.

I need to buy and cut into various lengths some wood for studwork (at varying thickness levels).

What kind of saw would be most appropriate for the job?

Later I will work with bigger pieces of wood. Can I just buy a 22" universal wood saw now (~7 tpi), and use it for both jobs?


texts: Will this work for breaker box location after remodel

texts:
We are going to be remodeling our basement into livable space. My wife is drafting out the plans and before we try and get a permit, we want to make sure this will work for the breaker box.
It was originally going to be in the laundry/bathroom, but I realized the box couldn’t be in a bathroom. She then drew it into its own room, accessed through the laundry room/bathroom via a bifold door with what should be appropriate clearances and no plumbing going through the room.
Is this allowable? We thought about just shifting the wall and putting the box in the bedroom, but I didn’t like that idea.
Any help would be great


texts:
It's old electric wall box for plug receptacle. Pulled a plug and it pulled box with it. It has two screw holes and one of them is broken.

Obviously in not gonna take it apart and install a new one.

Broken screw hole:

From side:

Covered:


texts:
My bedroom is a bit cool so I started using an electric space heater (that doesn't have a fan). I noticed it makes the air very dry. What's the best way of counteracting this? I was thinking of putting a bowl of water beside it, using a humidifier or using a fan. Would any of these help?

EDIT: I should ask, are humidifiers safe? I've got wood furniture and a computer in the room and was wondering if they would grow mold or damage electronics? If they are safe to use, should I put it right beside the heater? Should it be a warm mist or cool mist?

UPDATE: it appears the heater blows cold air, and it shouldn't be doing this.


texts: I have 5 circuits that I cannot identify on my breaker box. I have included every known end-point including furnaces, outdoor outlets, garage, etc. I was wondering if there was any way to disconnect the breaker in question and use a signal source at that end and some type of signal sensor to walk around the house looking for the signal. I do know in which direction the cables exit the breaker box; to the crawl space or up to the ceiling/second floor.


texts:
For the past year or two, I’ve been seeing a lot of these hard brittle flakes coming out of all the faucets in my house (kitchen sink, bathroom sinks, and shower/tub).
Now that I actually have the time and funds to work on this, I’d like to get this fixed!
The flakes only occur in hot water, and clog the shower head. The water is from a city main line, not a well, and we also do have quite hard water. What can I do to diagnose and/or fix the issue?
Some history of the water heater:

It's a relatively new Noritz tankless water heater, installed about 2 years ago. It replaced an older Noritz tankless heater, which came with the house.
There used to be a water softener attached to the water heater, but we disconnected it awhile ago since it was old and we suspected it was the source/cause of the flakes.

Here’s a picture of the flakes, for reference:


texts: Slight plumbing leak in 1930s threaded pipes

texts:
I have a 1930s-era house with generally galvanized plumbing.  The water-in line is a straight vertical pipe, except for this section which is perpendicular (and copper).  The loop part is marked "Ford", the water comes up, to the right, circles around, then continues up.  This looks like some sort of old-style expansion joint to me.

As you can see in that image, and this closer one, the right hand threading is leaking just a little, roughly a cup of water over 3 days.

Adding to the complications is that a few feet below this loop is the main water shut off for the house: an old gate valve that no longer fully shuts off the water, though it does shrink it to a manageable trickle.
I'd like to eliminate the leak before the basement is mildewed, but can't stop the water flow easily.  Ideally, is there a way to install a new ball valve in place of this center pipe part so I can both deal with the leak, and have a reliable way to turn off the water?  If not, is there a reliable way to replace that center pipe that won't leak?
(This sounds like a job for some sort of PEX, so I should admit that I've never used it, and have always been slightly distrusting of it.)


texts: Can I remove the fresh air supply that is attached next to my furnace?

texts:
It looks like my gas furnace is already vented but I'm not sure. There are two white pipes from the top of the furnace that are vented outside. The furnace is a Trane XR90. We have cold winter climate in Canada

The gas hot water heater has a black pvc pipe to the outside.


texts: What are the main options for fastening MDF to MDF?

texts:
I am interested in building boxes and cabinets from 3/4" MDF (I know, I could buy plywood. Bear with me.) What are the main types of screws and fasteners I can use to do this?

I am aware of

glue
serrated screws
drywall screws
confirmat screws
pocket holes
biscuit joints
dowels

Please explain the pros and cons of each technique.


texts: Is there a good way to fill a pocket hole in a finished piece of wood?

texts:
I'm building an oak handrail and had originally planned to assemble the entire project and then stain and topcoat it. As such, I planned on joining the handrail to the newel posts with pocket holes and screws... so I went ahead and drilled holes in the top of my newel posts.

Now that I've got all of my pieces cut-out and fit, I decided it'd be really nice to stain and topcoat everything in my shop before assembly.

Has anyone ever tried filling a pocket hole post-staining? Any tips on how to do so successfully?

This will be a very dark brown stain.


texts: Can someone assess my original thermostat's wiring setup?

texts:
This is a new world for me, I haven't messed with circuits since physics 101. When I watched a quick youtube tutorial on setting up my Nest E, I thought it'd be a simple "move wire in old C, to new C in Nest."

But I'm looking at my old thermostat and the instructions said if you have a Rc and Rh thats coupled = dual transformer and not compatible for Nest E. That plus I don't have a wire for W1 (or maybe its broken off??) instead just a wire in W2. Which subsequent instructions stated that W2/O/B should go into the *O/B slot on the Nest. But I doubt that means to put both W2 and O wires into the *O/B slot on the Nest...

Really need some guidance on a dummies explanation for what to do. I was half tempted to just move forward and put wires in best I could, but physics101 warned me not to mess with electricity and improper connections. Some more context, just moved into the apartment. I believe its central Heating and AC.

**Old thermostat


texts: How can I secure a door with a window right next to it?

texts:
My front door has a deadbolt, but right next to the knob/deadbolt is a tall narrow window, so that you can see whoever is outside. This is a security risk as anyone could smash that window and open the lock from the outside.

Is there a way to secure a door like this, without removing the window? The one idea I know if is a deadbolt where you need a key to open it even from the inside, but I don't think our code allows this for the front door.


texts: Which type of mortar or cement to set electrical box?

texts:
I have cut out two holes for 4", metal electrical boxes to be set in to the exterior walls of an old block and stucco garage.  I need to secure the boxes by setting them in either concrete or mortar, but am unsure what type of product to use. Would a plain old Quikrete - their basic concrete mix - work for this?  Or should I use some kind of mortar mix?  I was about to use the common Quikrete simply because I already have some, but then noticed on the package that it said it should be applied a minimum of 2" thick.  I don't have that kind of space around the boxes, so I thought maybe that was the wrong product for the project.  I also happen to have some old thinset for tiling.  May be past its prime, but might work for this?  Of course, I'm not opposed to buying whatever the right thing is if neither of these are it.

Any help would be appreciated.


texts: How to correctly wire a bathroom heater switch

texts:
I have an old Honeywell thermostat-type switch that controls the heater in the bathroom.  Teenagers frequently forget to turn it off and so it runs for hours.  I want to replace it with a push-button timer switch to prevent this.

The heater unit in the ceiling also has an exhaust fan connected to a typical light switch.  It is on a different breaker than the heater.

The new switch has three wires on the back: green for ground, red for load, black for hot.  So far so good.

When I removed the old switch, I found the following setup

The two black wires connected on the switch are labeled L1 and T1, while the two red are L2 and T2.  Obviously the bare wire is the ground that I would connect to the green on the new switch.  I believe I should connect the red wire on the new switch to the white wires.  I'm confused about what to do with the existing black wires and the black wire from the new switch.

Needless to say, my electrical experience is mostly limited to light fixtures and ceiling fans.  This house was built in the 40s and the bathroom was obviously a later renovation, so I have no experience with how it's wired.

Am I correct in what I think about connecting the new red to the existing white?  And what should I do with the black wires?


texts: AIC rating for residential 100A main breaker

texts:
I'm having an electrician replace my 2-unit meter main Zinsco panel with a new Siemens WP2211 panel. There will be two 100A breakers for the two units in the complex. The panel lists the following acceptable breakers:
QP, QPH, HQP, HQPH, MP-T, MP-HT. The QP and MP-T have a 10 kA AIC, the QPH has 22 kA and is only about $15 more than the QP. The HQP at 65 kA is three times the price, and presumably overkill.

Given that this is a service entrance, I assume the amount of short circuit current available from the utility is pretty substantial.

Is there a recommended value for residential service entrance breakers? I'm leaning towards the 22 kA QPH.

Thanks

Christian


texts: Should I insulate my rafters in addition to the ceiling in an unconditioned attic?

texts:
I'm not quite sure that this question has been asked, but I might also be misreading some earlier questions. Regardless, I am installing fiberglass insulation batts to go in my (sadly) 2x4 ceiling joist bays. The underside (ceiling side) will be faced, and once all the batts are in, I plan to cover some portions with OSB to make attic access/storage easier.

My attic has two vents at the peaks of the gables, and two Whirlybird vents, so it's definitely an unconditioned space. I have no reason to make it a conditioned space, but should I also install insulation in the rafter bays (like rigid foam cut to fit the bays) or under the rafters (like panels of rigid foam sitting on the rafters, leaving an air channel behind them)?

My guess is that this isn't useful, but I'm simply unsure.

EDIT: I should add that there are no soffit vents. The only attic vents are the gable peak vents and the Whirlybirds, which makes for a very hot attic in the summer.

EDIT: I'm in Redwood City, CA. Winter temperatures get close to freezing at night, though rarely to freezing or below, and easily up to and over 100 °F during the day in the summer.


texts: Why does one of two lights stay on when they share a neutral?

texts:
I have one source of power (1 hot wire) for 2 loads (living room lights and breakfast nook lights)
I am replacing the dimmers with Insteon dimmers. The previous switches didn't use the neutrals, but the Insteon switch requires the neutral. The neutrals are in the gang box, but I don't understand what neutrals do or how they connect to the schematic. Can someone help me understand?
Also, when I connect the neutrals the breakfast nook lights stay on regardless of switch position, but the living room lights work perfectly. If I don't connect the neutrals then neither of the lights work. What is happening and why? Can I fix this?


texts:
Is there anyway to open this lock? I tried a lot but it doesn't budge! Attaching some pics and a video of the lock.

Appreciate your help


texts:
I have a Whirlpool Quiet Partner II which has a wire chewed through by a rodent.  The wire is on the water inlet valve control.

I can see what needs to be attached where, and there is enough slack I believe to just reattach - but I can’t tell how to use this particular connector (and how to do this correctly and safely).  How do I remove the small bit of wire from the connector and then reattach?  Only about 0.5cm of wire is remaining in the connector.  Pulling on the wire doesn’t seem to remove it, using pliers even.  What am I missing?  Does the connector come apart in some way?

I’ve attached a few pictures (and can take more if useful).


texts: How can I prevent racking on a large free standing wardrobe?

texts:
I have two free standing wardrobes, 2.8m by 2m (depth 70cm). Actually inside the wardrobe there is one internal 'wall', halfway 1m, so it divides each wardrobe into 2, but is no stronger than the side 'walls'.

I would like to remove the back board

(for ventilation purposes and to keep an eye on possible mould)

but I am worried about racking

(when a rectangle box structure slides horizontally forming a diamond before collapsing...).

What are my best options?

I thought about using internal L brackets, similar to shelving brackets, I have some industrial strength ones to hand for 60cm shelves (with a diagonal support within the L). Could that work? Would I need to support all four angles? IF I use internal  L brackets should they be longer? Or if these brackets are overkill, let me know because i don-t want to waste these shelving brackets!

Or should I go for four strips of backing plywood to place within the original backing board grooves? (a piece along each vertical, and each horizontal) So a a partial back board by at least with this some of the wall behind is visible.

Or.. the fact there are two wardrobes, shall I join them?

Or....?