texts: How much concrete is required to anchor down a gazebo?

texts:
My wife and I bought a put-it-together-yourself gazebo from a hardware/outdoor type store (think Home Depot or Big Lots type of place).  It is rectangular gazebo (10'(w) x 12'(l) x 10'(h)) with a cloth roof and sides.  The box of parts says it all weighs about 130 lbs (60 kg).

I'm trying to figure out how to anchor this down.  The instruction manual is one of those look-at-the-picture-and-guess-how-it-goes-together deals.  The only thing it shows is "put stake in ground".  Each corner has a small base plate with holes for 4 stakes.  Each stake is an 6-ish inch long L-shaped stake with "threads" on them (they look like threads on a screw except they are wide, something like 1/8 of an inch or so).

Being an engineer (but not the kind that deals with structures or anything) I'm trying to figure out if staking into the dirt is sufficient or if I need something like concrete to anchor this down.  I'm also trying to not over-engineer this.  My biggest concern it that if I don't anchor this down sufficiently, I'll have a gazebo trying to make a forceful entry into my kitchen one day.

So my question has a couple (related) parts:

Is anchoring into the dirt sufficient?
If not, would concrete be a good way to anchor it?  If so, how much per foot do I need to use?

My initial thought was to put one to two 50 lb bags of concrete mix in a hole at each corner.  I've never done concrete by myself before (aside from digging holes for it with my dad when I was younger) so this is all somewhat new territory for me.


texts: Can I use coaxial cable for a 600' network extension?

texts:
I'd like to extend internet service to an outbuilding that is 600+ft from my house.   The distance is heavily wooded, so I think a wireless solution is a non-starter (but correct me if I'm wrong).

This ethernet expander looks like it could do it. The description claims it can support 100 Mbps over 1000ft, using VDSL.  (I don't need the full 100Mbps, but would like to have at  least 20Mbps or so).

They also claim it works with "copper phone wire".   It turns out that I have a lead on a long-enough spool of coax, for cheap or free.   I'm wondering how it would work with this device ?    I realize I need to wire it to RJ45 connectors at each end.   I  would probably just lay the line along the forest floor (the way I do with low-voltage wiring for landscape lights) where it just gets naturally buried by leaves and such.


texts:
So a few years back I installed a new bathroom for my kids, and lately, my eldest has been waking up earlier; she wants to take cold showers. I never really thought about cold showers, and when she said that she doesn't know how to turn on the cold water. I remember back, and we never have had cold water in that shower.
How do we get cold water installed?


texts: Can I turn the water supply to the shower off here (picture)?

texts:
I posted earlier about a Ghroe shower faucet that wouldn't turn off. I managed to finally get the handle off and now I am looking at this inside the wall.

The flat head screws that are on the far sides behind this piece in the middle - are those what I should be able to turn to cut the water to this shower? Or is there another way?

My goal here is not to repair this whole thing rather than to see if I can just shut off the water to the shower so I can turn the house water supply back on and call a plumber during the week for a full repair or replace.

Thank you.


texts: What is this screw doing on the gas pipe nipple?

texts:
What is the screw, on the gas meter nipple, for?   Also, is that nipple black pipe painted grey? or not black pipe?

sorry for out-of-focus image.


texts: What to do about the cracks on my wood floor?

texts:
I am trying to do some repairs of the floor. As you can see on photos, there are some cracks, dents, and gouges.

I am thinking of getting wood filler for these, but I am not sure which one would be best for these types. In addition, I also need to make sure it will not stand out when done. So, I need to find a way around it to match to the rest of the floor. I was thinking of using paint, but I don't know which color and, plus, I tend to be very clumsy in these things.

Any ideas? :)


texts: Drill through a pass through header/top-plate to hang pot hanger

texts: I want to install a pot hanger in this pass through between my kitchen and dining room. The product came with some wood screw hooks, and I want to swap them for some threaded hooks and throw a nut on the other side of the header/top plate. Should I worry about any code things drilling through the header or mounting ~60 pounds of pots to it?


texts: Will I have to install new cables when converting from a SD CCTV system to HD?

texts:
After a breakin soon after moving into our house, we used our cash reserve to improve security.  One of these updates was an 8-channel DVR with four external CCTV cameras.

The DVR exposes the cameras over TCP/IP, but I'm going to assume it will require replacement as well.

The cameras are "good" for outdoor standard definition closed circuit cameras, but with the use of some HD IP cameras for other purposes (bird monitoring, etc.) we've decided to improve the resolution of the security cameras both for identification purposes as well as being able to tolerate some loss of image detail with the use of wider-angle lenses.

These are currently cabled with twinned power and video cables that are broken out at the outdoor cameras, with power and coax (single-cable BNC) video broken out indoors.

When replacing the cameras, will I need to replace the cabling (assuming I don't go cat5/5e) or should "decent" HD cameras be able to reuse the same video feed?

I'll also be rewiring the power injectors because the installer ganged a bunch of cheap wall-warts onto a power strip, so I can increase power within reason.

Or, should I use the existing cable as fishtape and run new cabling?


texts: Why does my pilot light go out continuously?

texts: My furnace pilot light keeps going out.  The furnace will come on and heat up to the degree set on my thermostat, then the pilot goes out and the furnace will not come back on. Could the thermostat be bad and cause the pilot light to go out? Is there anyway for me to check the problem myself?


texts: Are there any standards/certifications for TV wall mount quality?

texts:
I'm considering wall mounting a 40" LED TV.
Up front, I realize this is a somewhat vague question. Is there any real quality difference between brands or retailers for TV wall mounts? It seems like the big box stores have exorbitant markup; Best Buy prices most mounts $50 to well over $100. I also see visually identical mounts for around $20 from sites like Amazon and Harbor Freight.
What I can't determine is whether these mounts are really comparable. One one hand, Best Buy loves to charge $30 for an HDMI cable. On the other hand, Amazon has become a clearing house for low-quality and counterfeit items. Harbor Freight has served me well, but after the jack stand recall, I'm less confident about any item that holds something heavy over my head.
Is there any standards body that rates or certifies TV mounts that I could look for? For example, UL, ANSI, or OSHA?


texts: We just moved into a new house and acquired this playset/swing in the process. When we walked through before buying it I never realized how badly it was leaning. I am now trying to figure out the best way to straighten it and brace it so that it stays upright. The 1st picture is trying to show how bad it is leaning. The top of the playset is leaning far right as I look toward the level. The next I am marking in red, to the left and below where I am facing the level, where I think I should add support. Support will be added exactly opposite these two marks as well. Any other ideas?


texts: Wondering if there are any suggestions for a safe additive that can be flushed into a sewage ejector tank that can help break down waste (even toilet paper). Getting some awful foul smells - going to double seal it with another layer of silicone, but would love suggestion on an enzyme/other type additive that helps break it down


texts: How to Determine the Correct Size of Beam to Support Suspended Planter

texts:
I am trying to plan a project that will look like this.

The bottom piece will be secured down and won't be able to move. I'm trying to figure out what size of beam I will need to connect the bottom piece to the top piece without being worried about it falling down. I don't have exact dimensions as I'm still trying to figure out if this is doable. The whole thing will be mounted inside of a garden window that sticks out of the house. The window is about a foot deep and the whole contraption will probably be around 3 feet wide. It will be used to house plants, so it will have soil, but shouldn't be very much. If possible, I'd like a general formula or method to make sure the connecting pieces will hold.


texts: What to do with the wires when removing baseboard heaters

texts:
I recently put in a forced-air whole house HVAC system in my old house.  I'll be yanking the old electrical baseboard heaters from everywhere in the house soon.

I'm wondering what all would be required by code in terms of removing the old wiring?  What I would like to do is just disconnect the wires from the breakers and tidy them up inside the box and label them well so future workers would know what they are.  Then at the other end just dike off the ends of the unconnected wires and shove them in the wall.

I'm guessing there might be some other code requirements beyond this approach?


texts: How can I protect window air conditioner from bird droppings from above?

texts:
I live on the second floor in a tall building.
My previous air conditioner (AC) was getting hit several times with pigeon poop. Not only the poop was going inside the unit, or getting stuck on top, but also making a loud noise.
Hoping one day manufacturers will have some kind of built-in protection on top the unit instead of leaving it open (I know it's to help ventilate the unit). Until then...

Ideally I'd like something that would be tilted so poop (and other stuff) can slide down away from the AC. And also would allow rain to clean it. Something that is removable for easy replacement when it gets too dirty would be nice too.

I know AC units are designed to stand this. However I remove my AC from the window every winter (so it frees up the window, etc.) so of course I'd like to protect it from getting more than dust/leafs.

I don't want to simply fully cover the top of the AC with foam. I think this might not even be safe.
Something that would protect the cover while still leaving space for ventilation, and that I could remove and replace with a new cover every summer (that is, not something permanently attached to the window). I was thinking about using brackets attached to the AC, with some kind of material on top (acrylic might be too fragile in a stronger wind/storm, for example?).

I'd like to hear some ideas!

Thanks!


texts: How to verify electrical box is secured strong enough for 16# ceiling fan?

texts:
The metal electrical box says it's "Acceptable for fan support when secured with 10-32 screws provided".

The box has 2 black screws (sheetrock screws?) in the middle that are screwed to some piece of wood above it. The screws are 2.5-3" long but I don't know how thick the wood is they are screwed into. This is between finished floors so I wouldn't have access from above.

The ceiling fan I am installing is 16lbs in weight.

Fan Instructions
Fan Product Page

How should I verify that this box is secured strong enough for a ceiling fan?
Or, how can I make it more secure?
-- Should I replace the black screws with 10-32 screws?

Thanks!


texts: How can I stop my lights from dimming when major appliances start up?

texts:
So it appears that I narrowed down the cause of my Random Flickering- the faulty 20-amp circuit on the detached garage service panel (leaking 60 volts at some point between the breaker and the last outlet).  Once I kill that breaker, all of my random flickering seems to have stopped (and that breaker will not be turned on until that branch is either re-wired, or a specific cause is found).

However, now I have noticed a slight dimming whenever the A/C, Fridge, or well pump/pressure tank kicks in.  From reading around it looks like this slight dimming tied to major appliances kicking in is not something to be too concerned about.  And when it comes to the Fridge and A/C, it isn't an issue for us.  Where it does get quite annoying is with the well pump/pressure tank.  Whenever water is running (doing dishes, laundry, taking a shower, etc..) the pump kicks in every 10-15 seconds or so, giving the whole house a nice 10-15 second "beat" of lights dimming.  Is there anything I can do for this one appliance circuit to reduce or eliminate the flicker?


texts: Water flow rate reduction without pressure reduction

texts:
My main water line can deliver 15 gallons per minute at the input side of a sprinkler manifold. What kind of device can I use to deliver a regulated reduced flow rate without reducing the water pressure at the manifold valve when the water is flowing? I'd like to reduce the rate to about 10 gallons per minute.
My understanding is that if the water velocity through the sprinkler system is too high, it can result in water hammer or scrubbing, which can damage the pipes.
If there are devices that will do this (regulate rate and maintain pressure), what are they called (for search purposes)? An example or two of something currently available would also be helpful.


texts: 15A circuit allowed to supply multiple general purpose receptacles?

texts:
For some reason I have it in my head that there is a section in the NEC which prevents the use of anything smaller than 20A circuits to supply multiple general purpose receptacles.

While I know for certain that the use 20A circuits to supply residential multiwire circuits is common convention and a requirement for some outlets in kitchens, laundry rooms, and bathrooms (sections from 210.11 of the 2014 NEC quoted below), I cannot seem to find a section in the NEC which prohibits the use of 15A circuits to supply multiple general purpose receptacles in other areas of the house. This is not to say I plan to deviate or am advocating deviating from this convention for circuits which supply multiple receptacles, I would just like to confirm whether I somehow tricked myself into thinking it is actually required by the NEC or if it is really just a good common convention.

  From NFPA-70:2014 (2014 NEC)

  210.11 Branch Circuits Required.

  ...

  (C) Dwelling Units.

  (1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits. In addition to the
  number of branch circuits required by other parts of this
  section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits
  shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by
  210.52(B).

  (2) Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number
  of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at
  least one additional 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided
  to supply the laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by
  210.52(F). This circuit shall have no other outlets.

  (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number
  of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at
  least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided
  to supply a bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits
  shall have no other outlets.

  Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single
  bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same
  bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance
  with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).


texts:
My neighbour has recently had some work done to her roof.  The old mortar was red and the new mortar is grey (uncoloured).  So it looks a little silly with both colours present.

She's not very happy about this and when she complained they told her that colouring the mortar would make it weaker and more likely to crumble.

Whilst that sounds feasible it also sounds like an excuse.  Surely the strength of the mortar is down to the ratio & quality of the mix, isn't it?

(The mortar at the front of the house is red, the replaced mortar at the side is not)


texts: Is my gas supply likely to travel through the floor or ceiling? [UK]

texts: Our gas supply enters the property at the front and can be seen entering the wall cavity. The boiler is currently in the kitchen at the back of the property. To reach the kitchen is the gas pipe likely to be running within the solid ground floor of the house or travelling up the cavity and through the ceiling void between the ground and first floors? The house was built in the 1990s. Anyone know what was expected practice at the time? For clarity this is in the UK.


texts: Suggestion installing receptacles on basement wall?

texts:
I plan to install four 20 amp duplex receptacles on a basement concrete wall in area marked by red rectangle (see picture). Along the top of wall is a plumbing drain pipe.

Suggestions for installing the receptacles in this area that are compliant with code? The breaker box is about 15' away on an opposite wall.


texts:
I was told to regrout my shower. I was wondering if there is an alterative to it. I was thinking of using caulk
For grout, I was thinking of using pre-mixed grout such as "SimpleGrout" which is avaliable at HomeDepot.
Any thoughts?


texts: Cutting a stainless tube - without a grinder

texts:
I've got to cut a section of rectangular stainless tube (1/8" thick, 3" x 3", or about 3mm, 7x7cm) but I'm not allowed to use a grinder because of local rules. A circular saw with a grinding blade is also not allowed. What are my options?

I've got a mini oxy torch, but I've heard they don't work well on stainless. I've got a drill, but I'm not sure how I could do much with it. I'm open to buying a decent hand saw, but I imagine that something this thick and big will take forever.

The cut does not have to be neat or clean at all, and will never be seen.

Any ideas?


texts:
I need a screw for some outside door handles, and I cannot rethread the holes as some parts are brittle plastic and other parts are soft metal.

I need an exact replacement for this screw, but I do not know what type it is (e.g. wood, self tapping, other type etc)

The length from the head to the tip (other end) is 19mm

The diameter is 4mm

It has 15 threads in 12-13mm

Here are some pictures:

Apologies for the poor quality, my phone isn't very good at close-ups.

This is the closest match that I can find, but the threads seem to be larger.


texts:
I just installed a lock in my door and when attempting to install the latch I found that the wood was splintering and not stable, so I cut it out. My problem is similar to this one. What can be installed in the gap to make the latch have something strong to screw into? Best type of wood to use? Other ideas besides wood? Replacing the entire door frame is not an option at this point.
Reference image:


texts: I have a circuit on a 20 amp single pole breaker. All it has on it is two lighted ceiling fans on 1 single switch; it operates both ceiling fan lights and fan. It has a receptacle as well. My panel is around 35-37 years old. That is all that is on that circuit. What could be possibly wrong with the circuit? I checked Voltage on everything. It reads 120v very good. It might stay good for 2-5 days then loose power on everything on that circuit.


texts: I want to put three pendant lights where there is no light currently. I drilled a test hole with a drill bit and hit wood. I'm trying to move it elsewhere, but if not can I do something with a pancake junction box attached to the stud and cut only the drywall out? Any other ideas short of moving the light?


texts: What is attached to this spigot and how to remove

texts:
This adapter is attached to an outdoor spigot:

It is near the location of a former hot tub so I believe it has something to do with pressure control. When I attach a hose to it and turn it on if the hose is not flowing (e.g. a closed nozzle at the end) the water leaks (more like squirts, lots of it) from this adapter, it appears to be from the holes and not the connection to the spigot or the hose.

What is this thing? Is there a way to utilize it? I'd like to remove it so I can use this spigot but when I try to unscrew it with a wrench it does not budge - in fact the spigot itself starts to rotate. I wasn't really able to tighten a pipe wrench to the spigot due to the available clearance & pipe width.

There appears to be a rivot on the under side of the adapter but it is difficult to tell, it is somewhat rusted over.

Follow Up

My original concern was water leaking from it when it was used. While a plumber was on site doing a different job I asked him to look at this to see if something was wrong. He said the vacuum breaker wasn't working properly and ended up replacing the entire hose bib (with new vacuum breaker), I presume because he was not able to remove the vacuum breaker as well or it wasn't salvageable. Now no water spews out when it is used.


texts: When water on kitchen sink is turned up, the water flow gets excessively choppy

texts:
When we turn up the kitchen sink water (hot or cold), around 75-80% full, the water starts getting choppy and the faucet head starts bouncing up and down. At lower flow levels, there's no issue. The hot water seems to take a little longer to hit that state than the cold water.

We have one of those PUR water filters attached, and I noticed that there was no issue with the filter switched on (although that might be just due to low overall throughput) so I tried taking the filter off. No choppiness or bouncing, but it sounds funny, almost like too much air is getting in, and a few seconds after I shut it off, I get a second gush of water. This might be due to a lack of aerator (said aerator being built into the filter), I guess, but I'm adding what data I can.

This happened after our backyard neighbor (a bit downhill)  started getting water coming out of their yard yesterday, although our problem only started around 4 PM today. There are no other reported issues were can find online for our area.


texts:
I recently ripped off the old carpet in a room, along with the under-pad. The pad is in a decent condition, so I'm wondering it could be the re-used somewhere? Of course I would not use it again for another carpet underlayment, but is it possible to insulate anything with it (just as example)?

Thanks.


texts: I want to board out my loft - just for easy storage of things like tools, boxes, old clothes, suitcases, small unused furtniture etc (i.e. nothing too heavy). I am wondering what kind of boards to buy for this purpose. Most of the boards I see advertised for doing this are chipboard, but they also vary widely in price. What's the recommended approach considering I want it to last for 10 years or more?


texts: Can spray foam be used between Rim joist and exterior sheathing?

texts:
I have a 40 yr old single story modular home set on a block foundation. I used a thermal temperature gun to verify a temperature difference. the insulated wall is approximately 1 to 2 degrees cooler than the room ambient. I consider that normal with 6” exterior stud walls. Problem is I’m finding at the baseboards the temperature to be 10 to 12 degrees colder than room ambient. (Typically when outside temp. is below freezing) This is attributed to cold air transferring into the home.

The interior floor joists are well insulated in the basement. I removed and inspected a few locations but find no gaps to exterior. Typical interior insulation as current is as shown in this photo.

Investigating the exterior, i find there is a 1/2” gap between the rim joist and the original exterior lap siding. You will note in the photo a metal siding was applied over the original vertical lap siding.

In the photo, you can see the gap which had what appears to be a foam rubber type insulation. Appears this foam rubber insulation has fallen out or disintegrated over time. Even vermin of some type or field mice could be the cause.

I have the original construction drawings and included two copies of the detail. It does not indicate any type of insulation within this area. Yet the gap between the rim joist or so called Sill Band exists all around the house perimeter on exterior.

My question is could I use a spray foam to fill in this gap? I was thinking maybe Great-Stuff window and Door spray foam would be a good choice. If an alternate would be advised, please advise? Especially since the spray foam would be difficult to remove after the application. Yet may be the best deterrent to mice, etc.

I do not foresee moisture being trapped, as metal siding would provide the shedding any rainfall, etc.

Follow up for clarification:
Appreciate any thoughts. I am not concerned with risks for cleanup using spray foam. The picture provided is the only side of house you can actually see the gap. It is on the one side with garage doors. (Garage is part of the basement.) The rest of the house siding is only about 6” above grade. Would be very difficult to manually pack the other 3 sides of the house. Would almost need a mirror and go by feel to find the gap. That is why I am considering spray foam.

Would spray foam be a concern for trapping moisture between the rim joist and exterior sheeting? Also I have used spray foam before and worked well to stop rodents. Not bullet proof, but certainly is a good deterrent.


texts: How to find/construct simple trim for windows

texts:
I need to add the trim to a window.

I don't care about beauty too much.  All I need is an L shaped wood trim.  The "reveal" (I think that's how it's called) is 3/8'' inside the wall, so I need this specific dimension for the L shape to go inside.
Question: Is there a way to find this specific trim size online, or do a custom order somewhere.
Alternatively, am I better off just nailing in a 3/8'' frame to the reveal, bringing the reveal level with the wall, and just nail in wider wood boards to cover the gap between the reveal and the wall?  The look would be fine, I am just not sure what is the better way of doing this.
Yet another option is to cut the L-shape myself, but it looks tricky to get it right.


texts: Should I tilt my DIY self-standing bookshelf backwards to prevent it falling down?

texts:
Context
I intend to build a self-standing bookshelf using 18mm-thick, CNC-router-cut plywood. The bookshelf is made of nested planks, and entirely fits a 35cm-deep recess in my wall.

Following pictures display first a sketch of the global design, and second, how I intend to nest planks (click on picture to see them full size):

1/
2/

Problem:
Although I don't have any children and don't really expect some at my home during the lifespan of the bookshelf, I kind of fear that it could topple frontwards. I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall.

Question:
Should I consider tilting either the supports (picture A: α<90°), or the shelves (picture B: β>90°) — or even both — backward by a few degrees to prevent the bookshelf to topple? If yes, which solution is the best, and what angle would be advisable?

A/ B/

Question:


texts: Water Filter system - backwash from sewer?

texts:
I have a whole house Aquat water softner and filter system (new system that was put in last week). I believe the incoming line is connected to the filter, then the filter output line is connected to the water softner. The water softner output line is connected to the house.

I believe both the softner and the filter has drain lines that are plugged into the drain/sewage pipe.

Currently, the filter is working nonstop and I can hear tons of water being flushed down the sewage line. The plumber shut it off but will be back next week to fix it (he will need to contact the company cause he doesn't know what the problem is).

My question is.....is it possible for the sewage pipe to backwash into the filter system? Are there any engineering/plumber standards to prevent this? (do you think the system has this in place?)


texts:
I needed to paint house numbers on my wheelie bin and I didn't want to spend money on that. So I just painted nice white squares with... two coats of interior wood undercoat/primer + one coat of interior wood paint. Worse, I exposed that to the rain before it was completely dry and the rain ruined everything.

After cleaning paint-run I'm wondering: is there a simple way to keep my nice squares and just make then somehow rainproof?

Also I'd like to draw house numbers on them, can I just use a dark marker pen?


texts: Will 2 multi-port USB chargers overload a 13A socket?

texts:
I am a bit confused about some supposedly basic electronics concepts :/ (I kind of have an answer but just want to confirm)

So let's say I have got this setup:

A 13A 220V mains socket
A 13A powerstrip connected to the above socket
Two 60W 5V USB chargers, such as this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P936188

Question: If I plug the 2 chargers and fully utilize them (connect all ports to charging iPads), am I overloading the socket?

The spec says it can deliver 2.4A per port, or 12A overall. Simple addition of the amperage is:

12A + 12A = 24A > 13A, so I am overloading

However, the wattage is just 60W so maybe the correct way to calculate it is:

Power = Current * Voltage
Current = 60 / 220 = 0.27A

So the input current is actually just 0.27A so I can actually safely connect as many as 13 / 0.27 = 48 of those chargers to the same mains without problems. The 12A is provided by the transformer inside the charger and doesn't concern the mains circuit.

Which one is the correct interpretation?


texts: Are water lines required to be secured to the wall at the point of exit?

texts: There are several water supply lines made of CPVC that do not appear to be secured behind the wall at the point of exit (to supply water to a fixture). Are there any building codes regarding securing the water supply behind the wall? I'm in Virginia, USA.


texts: Will an exhaust fan made for ceilings work in a wall instead?

texts: Does anyone know whether a bathroom exhaust fan designed to be installed in a ceiling would have any problems if installed in a wall instead? From a mechanical, ball bearings, noise perspective. Not a space perspective.


texts: Would upgrading my basement with sandstone blocks be worthwhile?

texts:
Having a look at an old farmhouse that is for sale in the area, and as with most houses in the area of this age the foundation is built on red sandstone blocks, around five feet deep, with a dirt floor. Not very useful to have for much of anything outside of storage space, but it has a lot of floor space as it has the same square footage as the other two floors (roughly 1500+ sq ft)

What I'm wondering is if it possible, and if so, worthwhile to upgrade the foundation to the following:

Be at least 7 feet with concrete/finished floor
Able to keep the sandstone walls, if possible (mainly for aesthetics and hence resale...I realize concrete is stronger and probably better insulated)
Reduce the amount of poles that are in the basement (there seem to be a few of them that dont' have much of a logical layout to them.

Any advice would be most welcomed.

EDIT: Here's a picture of the enterence to the basement in question. I sadly didn't get any pictures of the basement due to the limitation of the camera that I have. You can see the floor is still the dirt floors, with the original stone steps and sandstone blocks. Those blocks are what they used for the foundations, with roughly 6inch diameter wood pillars within the floor area.


texts:
If an appliance that is rated for 220V is used with a 110v-to-220v transformer in a 110v country, or an appliance that is rated for 110V is used with a 220v-to-110v transformer in a 220v country, how much of the electricity is wasted? That is, how much more will it consume compared to the appliance used in its native current country?

If it matters which type of appliance, let's assume something like a humidifier, dehumidifier, air purifier type.


texts: How can I open this smoke detector to change the battery?

texts:
I don't know the model of this smoke detector, but it's beeping from low battery and needs to be changed. I can't figure out how to open it, so hoping someone can help! Here are some photos of it:

If it helps, it's in Australia.

Thanks!


texts: Safe to install humidifier above furnace gas vent?

texts:
I'd like to add an AprilAire 600 bypass humidifier.
I plan to install the humidifier on the supply plenum, and the bypass duct on the return air.  The gas vent coming off the furnace is type B.
According to manufacturer, I need to keep combustibles 2 inches from this vent
So long as I maintain the 2-inch clearance, are there any safety issues with installing the humidifier above the gas vent?


texts: How can/should I mount this porch light?

texts:
I want to mount a porch light on my outdoor shed/office.  I recently had an electrician place interior wiring however I elected to do the fixtures myself.

Uh oh.

Here's what the back of the porch light area looks like (on the inside of the shed):

Here's what the front looks like:

Here's a picture of the light I want to put on the outside:

The wall is a solid piece of wood about 1.5 inches thick so I don't think there's room to add a fixture bracket.

So... I'm stumped. How should I attach the light?


texts: How do I frame this oddly spaced rough in

texts:
It's been a long time since I posted about this stupid rough in (dang kids), but I'm attempting to get back on it.  The spacing for these pipes are driving me crazy.

For a quick reference, the following pipes are as follows

Drain and vent for basement sink
Toilet rough-in
Backwater Valve
Tub Drain

The idea to finish the bathroom as such:

There are 3 big problems (for me) with this rough in.

2 is 15.5" on center from the foundation wall.  If I were to leave up the current insulation and put up a wall, I'll run out of room.  The current insulation can poof anywhere from 3-4".  If I were to put up a 2x4 wall with 0.5" drywall/cementboard, I'm looking at loosing 8" of that 15.5".  That means the toilet hole is only 7.5" from the finished wall.  That's not gonna work.  If I were to rip out all of that perfectly good insulation and put up 1.5" XPS, that still only leaves me with 10", which is no where near the standard 12.5" offset from wall.  How can I possibly frame that wall so that it A) still has insulation (in my state we're required to have R10/13 in the basement) B) is wide enough to enclose the #1 pipe (which is slightly more than 3" from the foundation all to the outside of the pipe) and C) leaves enough room to place a toilet without an offset flange.

2 is 49.5" OC from the wall on the right.  We'd like to place a stand up shower where #4 is.  But doing the math, if code requires a MINIMUM of 15" OC for a tub to the shower wall and 30" MINIMUM for the shower INTERIOR space, that only leaves me 4.5" to put in insulation, framing, cementboard, AND THE FRAME FOR THE SHOWER.  Since there are no wires/pipes to run on that wall, I could get away with 2x3" furring strips?  To get an R value of 10, I'd need 2" of XPS, plus the 1.5" of the furring strip + 0.5" cement board.  That only leaves me 0.5" to do the exterior of the shower.  If I'm doing a tiled shower with a step in, isn't that going to be at least a 2x4 and then some?

3 and #4 are so close to each other. There's roughly 8-9" between the two for me to fit the wall with the pipes.  There's no way that I'd be able to put in a tradition square center-drain shower in there.  Will I have enough room to put in the wall and be able to have a free standing shower?


texts: Can you cap a chimney to reduce moisture and still use the chimney with a gas fire?

texts: Or does capping a chimney always remove the ability to use a fire ?


texts: Help recognize / how to remove and reinstall this window

texts:
We have a double hung window with a dual-track piece on both sides. The lower sash can no longer stay open as its spring coil on the right has fallen detached.

I've watched quite a few YouTube videos on window removal and have a basic idea. However, I didn't find one with the precise mechanism for my window so I wanted to pick the brains of the experts out here. Is the small wood piece the window stop that I have to remove before I can slide out the track?

EDIT: It looks like that the window was the original one installed in 1990, Eagle Flat Clad. I can't seem to find replacement parts for it. Is it possible to keep the window by getting a new jamb liner?


texts: 3/4 Inch CPVC Pipe Run Underground - Low Pressure

texts:
I tied into a water line that was capped off in my crawlspace.  It is a CPVC water line that used to run to a sink in a utility room of my home.  Water pressure when the line was connected was just as the rest of the home.  I have now tied into this line and run CPVC pipe underground for about 25 feet and connected to a spigot.  Water pressure from the spigot at best is a slow drip.  I have checked all joints/connectors of the CPVC pipe and there are no leaks.

What do I need to do or check in order to get adequate water pressure?

EDIT
And for clarification the CPVC pipe runs about 1 foot down to the ground, then runs about 18 inches up to the spigot, the rest of the run is flat.


texts: Fix/redo grout between ceramic tile and wood laminate before putting down threshold (transition)?

texts:
I want to put a floor threshold between a bathroom (ceramic tile) and hallway (wood laminate).  I bought, cut, and stained a wood threshold (transition) to fit the door frame, so I would like to use that one if possible.

The grout between the laminate and tile (put in by previous owner probably within the past couple of years) is cracked along part of its length, missing a 1/4" by about 2" chunk in the middle, and separated from the laminate along the rest of its length.  I.e., it's not attaching any part of the laminate to the tile.

Do I need to fix the grout before putting the threshold on top of it?  If so, does it need to be a good bond, or is it enough to just fill in the gap without doing it over?  (I am planning to use Liquid Nails adhesive or the like to bond and hopefully seal the threshold to the floor surface on both sides of the grout bead.)


texts: Is there a built in adjustment to limit how far these crank windows open?

texts:
I need to prevent these windows from opening too wide.
I have a plan to drill into the bracket and insert a bolt to limit the range of motion, but before I start modifying I want to rule out a built in limiting/control mechanism I might be missing.
There is a clip and an unused hole in one area, but I don't see any way to use them to achieve what I need.


texts:
I have a pre-existing patio and would like to add a spa tub which weighs 4,250 lbs filled with water. Unknow is, re-enforced with re-bar? the exposed one side appears to be at least 18 inches thick. What is the minimum thickness of normal concrete to hold that much weight, with or without re-bar?
?


texts: Why is cold water coming from the hot part of the faucet?

texts:
The last plumber I called made a test.  He closed the cold water intake to the 40 gallon gas water heater.  The he opened all the hot water faucets in my house. After a minute passed,
the faucets, instead of hot water were pouring abundantly cold water.  He said this was weird, and he said it may be the washing machine. I did not understand.

Please explain why cold water was coming out of the hot water faucets.


texts: Interior door handle with privacy lock for 2-inch think interior doors

texts:
I need to replace all of my interior door handles with new hardware that includes privacy locks for bathrooms and bedrooms.  All doors are the correct thickness to accept standard US replacements (Schlage, Kwickset, Baldwin, etc).
The previous owner replaced two doors with 2-inch thick ones that are too thick for the standard American lock sets.  I’ve seen a lot of thick door extension kits, but they seem to be designed for exterior lock sets only.
I’ve been able to find extremely expensive European-made sets, but the prices require a second mortgage.
Is it possible to extend a retail hardware store-grade interior privacy set to work on a thicker door?


texts: Wiring for outdoor GFCI receptacle in my garden

texts: I have dug my trench. I want to use FMC (flexible metal conduit) since some of my trench is only 8-12 inches deep. I need to know what wires I need inside my conduit. Do I just need a black, white and a green ground wire? FMC can be used as the ground from what I have read. I need to run this about 85 feet from my electrical box. I believe I need 8 AWG THWN wire for that length. But I want to make sure I put the right wires inside the conduit. Oh and I want a 120 volt receptacle. Thanks!!


texts: Should a ceiling fan on a long rod move when using the pull chain?

texts:
I installed a 52" ceiling fan in our family room on a 2 foot long downrod. It has a very slight wobble, but nothing of concern since I assumed there would be some wobble due to the length of the rod. However, whenever the pull chain is used on the fan, it tips to the side of the pulling and the rod moves in that direction. The ceilings are sloped and the slot for the downroad "ball" is facing the upward direction of the slope, not the downward direction. This is because the ball will tend to hang down in the direction of the slope.

Is it normal for the fan to "tip" to the direction of the pull chain when it is pulled?

The clevis pin is completely inserted with the cotter pin securely fastened to the clevis pin. Also, both set screws are completely tight. It just seems there is a little play between the motor housing collar where the fan is located and where the downrod is inserted. I looked at the old fan I pulled down that also had a long downrod and it had some play too.

Is this because I am using a longer downrod instead of a shorter downrod?


texts:
We are redoing a wet room on the ground floor and we have uncovered the floor boards.
I'm looking at this and I'm totally baffled.... the joist doesn't even reach the end of the room... what's supporting it is a mystery to me...
What's the best way to fix this?

Example of the far left joist as well below - this one looks a bit rotten and has a much better joist connected to it that runs to the other end of the bathroom I believe.


texts: How to figure the angle to drill from an above ground carport to basement next to it?

texts:
Okay, so not the best drawing below (The wall between basement + 1st floor, and carport, should have been depicted as thicker for this illustration, for one)...

.... However I need to drill a hole from the left wall of the carport (Car is pictured showing it's back) through to beside the Electrical panel, so I can then (housed in conduit) run 6AWG (Copper / 75°C; If it isn't cheaper to go larger in aluminium or a different temparture rating in either) from a socket in the carport to a breaker in the panel.

How does one work out the angle to do so when the real roof (not drop ceiling) is likely not parallel with the floor of the carport, but one is not sure by how much it is off, so one can use pythagorean theorem to work out the angle to drill at?


texts: Drying and sanding cherry tree disc for coffee table

texts:
Last week I had an old cherry tree that was looking a bit worse for wear cut down in my garden. I asked the tree surgeon if he'd cut me a chunk so I could make a little coffee table/bedside table.
Size
1 - 6cm deep by 37cm diameter
2 - 7cm deep by 37cm diameter
Images - you can see that where there was seeping it has turned a bit mouldy.

There are 2 pieces but the large one had a gash down one side from the chainsaw. I would like to dry them, sand, wax and add metal pin legs. I paint a fair amount but my DIY skills, especially with wood work are limited. I have a small hand held electric sanding mouse. Can any one recommend any tips for me. How long should I leave it to dry in my home? before sanding? Do I need to put anything on it to prevent cracks.

Looking at it today one piece already has a line down the middle... I should have put this post up last week :(.

Thank you for any tips or advise.


texts: How do I know what the cement or stucco finish on my house is?

texts:
Just purchased a house (first time homeowner) and I'm realizing there is of course a lot I don't know about it.  I'm trying to hang a mailbox on what I think is a stucco wall, but apparently there are many different types (and some of the potential fasteners I'm considering say to only use them for certain types of stucco (like synthetic, mortar, and some others - Portland?).

Our home inspection simply says "stucco" and the wall is very smooth and a white/light gray color.

How can I tell what kind of stucco it is (assuming it is stucco) and if whatever anchors/screws I'm looking at are appropriate?


texts: replaceing a toggle switch for EXHAUST fan for small bathroom with a rocker switch

texts: I have a bathroom with two separate toggle switches; one for the light and one for the exhaust fan. I have updated the light switch with a dimmer/motion sensor rocker style switch. Now, my question is: Can i replace the toggle style switch to the exhaust fan with a rocker style switch? Do you use the same rocker style switch as one would use if it were for a light or is there a special type of rocker switch for an exhaust fan vs a light ? And what amp rating do I use: 15 or 20 ? Does it matter if the rocker switch is rated for more amps than it needs?


texts: Which is the right screws to use to mount ikea pegboard to studs for heavy weights with noob skills?

texts:
I am super confused and overwhelmed with the amount of  research I have done so pardon the post that may seem like a duplicate but I need help in specifically this context.

Problem Statement : I want to mount ikea pegboard 30"x22" onto studs. I used a stud finder to determine that my studs are 24" apart. The house is less than 4 months old so I am confused why they didn't follow the 16" standard.

The pegboard of 30"x22" comes with a bar that has holes at 23-5/8". Hence, I think I can mount it directly to the studs. I am making this for mountaineering gear so I want it to be super sturdy and hold good amount of weight.

Screw length :
I saw 3 inches being recommended most often so I was going to go with 3-1/2" screws just for safety. Is this okay? I just have regular drywall.

I shortlisted :

Structural Screws
All forums kept recommending this and I felt that it applies to my use case. But when I search structural screws on home depot they are not very cheap or many models. Everything is 5lb pack but I only need maybe 10 of those.
This looks strong, is affordable. The top shaft looks unusual, Am I going to need anything special to drive this in? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-3-in-Strong-Drive-SDS-Structural-Wood-Screws-25-Pack-SDS25300-R25/203302236

This looks strong and easily drivable but is expensive. Is it worth the price. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-5-16-in-x-3-1-8-in-Rugged-Structural-Screw-45-Piece-Pack-112221/203533461

Cabinet screws

SPAX cabinet screw seems expensive :    https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-10-x-2-1-2-in-T-Star-Drive-Washer-Wafer-Head-Partial-Thread-Yellow-Zinc-Coated-Cabinet-Screw-75-per-Box-4281020050606/206870578

Generic cabinet screw is cheaper but is it going to compromise the strength value. https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Truss-Head-Phillips-Drive-Cabinet-Screw-25-Pieces-803002/204275480

lagbolts : strong but overkill for my project. Harder for a noob like me because of predrilling need


texts:
Moved into a home which has a wooden frame strip around the front door. The strip does not extend all the way to the ground, and there's a small gap there (as shown in the attached photo). That gap leads directly into the basement. I can stick a rod straight through.

How would you recommend I fix this, both temporarily and permanently? It's winter in my region, and cold air is just leaking into the basement. Luckily the front door has a large awning, so no direct water has been getting here.

Thanks


texts: I have two outside outlets that don't work.  One on the front other on the back.  Nothing is labeled for them in the breaker box, I don't know what to turn off to replace them.  How do I find the power source?  The house is 8 years old and they haven't worked for about 3 years.


texts: Why don't new flush valve seals have the same bump in them as the original?

texts:
I recently replace a flush valve seal:

I noticed the old one had a quarter inch "bump" on - I had no idea how that would have happened, but to me seemed to explain why the seal was not sealing:

Even more recently, I had a second toilet that was intermittently running on its own. I replaced that seal, and the same bump was there on that seal! The replacement valve seals do not have any bumps (as I would expect). Is this bump expected on some seals? Or does this happen over time for some reason?


texts:
I have a 20'x24' 2-story unfinished, detached garage. The first floor is a two-story garage. The second floor will be living space (kinda like a studio apartment). The ceiling of each floor is about 8 feet.
I am researching lighting options for the first floor garage area. I like recessed lighting because there are no light fixtures to bump into while moving stuff around in the garage.
Then there is "How to chose the right product". If I use LED, there are varying quality of light and products. How many lumens, spacing, number of circuits. Installation is the easy part. Design is the hard part.
I feel like I am just rambling, so forgive me if this does not make much sense.
Side Note: I wish I could find a good general contractor (GC) with good subs, but don't even know how to search for one and determine if I have found a good GC. Maybe a GC is not what I am looking for. Who would design and draw up the plans. Architect?
Thanks,


texts: Cat 6 PoE Parallel To Power Cables (just for 2 feet) - What should I expect?

texts:
Preface:
I dont want to repeat the question already posed here.
I am a reasonably smart individual that does work around his house.  I graduated with an EE degree way back when, so concepts of electricity are not foreign to me.  I am aware of many of the reasons why one should not run Ethernet cable parallel to standard house power cable (magnetic induction causing interference, potential safety issues if both cables are punctured, code violations, etc).

All that being said, I am still asking this question and I wont hold it against you if you call me an idiot. :)

Situation:
I am installing a Foscam weatherproof web cam just outside my garage.  The camera supports PoE and I have a PoE router that it will connect to.  I plan to connect the router and webcam using cat6 Ethernet cable

There just happens to be a motion sensor light just outside my garage.  The motion sensor light consists of an junction box (exterior) and some Sch. 40 conduit that goes thru the exterior wall into the garage interior.  This conduit leads to another junction box (interior) where power is routed from the house.  The total wire distance between interior and exterior junction boxes is about 2 feet.

I want to avoid drilling more holes in my house.  I am considering running my cat6 cabling between the junction boxes (thru the conduit) and having it exit the exterior junction box.  I would then hook it up to my webcam mounted close by.  The Ethernet would only be parallel to the power cable for 2 feet of length (even though the actual Ethernet run would be much longer).  Also the Ethernet would be within junction boxes and conduit the whole time it is together (increasing safety from random nails and such).

Question:
Im reasonably certain that there is enough shielding in the power and Ethernet cables to avoid a short between the two.  However I am wondering how worried I should be about 2 feet of parallel run?  Is that enough distance to have adverse effects?  Also, if there is a constant inductance, how worried should I be about my PoE router and webcam being damaged over time?

Any and all speculation and empirical data is accepted. :)


texts: Are phosphate floor screws suitable for subfloor which will be covered in thinset and cement board?

texts:
I am installing hardiebacker concrete board with thinset to a plywood subfloor.

I am putting down the new subfloor and want to be sure the screws that I use to secure the plywood to the joists will not corrode from the layer of thinset over the subfloor.

All the floor screws I could find in the box stores are black phosphate screws. Are these black phosphate screws alkali resistant and will they be OK in contact with a layer of thinset and cement board on top of the subfloor?


texts: How to fix a poor plumbing installation resulting in severe odor problems?

texts:
After reading this related question and checking that the wax seal is OK, I assume I have a problem with the trap, but where's the trap? The outline of the plumbing in my home (a bit simplified) is like this:

Legend:

Blue: the main pipe that comes from the bathroom to the city wastewater system through the house basement.
Yellow: City wastewater (I can't touch it).
Red: The problem.

Chronology:

When I bought the house, there was a bad smell in the bathroom. I assumed it was because nobody lived there for months.
After some weeks, the bad smell hadn't dissappeared, so I checked the bathroom (everything right), then I opened a manhole I found in my garden (the red part). I found it dry and had a strong bad smell.
After asking to a professional plumber, we decided to make a trap there with a pipe. Something like this:

This got rid of the bad smell for 3 months, but after it appeared again. Then we cleaned the strap and the bad smell dissappeared again for another 3 months.

Of course, that's not a good solution for 2 reasons:

We have to clean the trap (at least) 4 times every year.
Worst: after a couple of month the main pipe is full of water because it doesn't have enough slope. I'm afraid a day it can explode and flood the basement.

So, the question is: how can I fix this? There are no other traps in the house, should I make one? Or there is a simpler way to fix it?


texts: Can a dimmer switch be replaced by an electric outlet?  Currently I have dimmer switches in 2 rooms that control 1/2 of every outlet in each room.  This is very inconvenient.  However 2 extra electric outlets would be most welcome.  Would like to try to correct this on my own.  Have replaced other electric outlets and switches when needed in the past.


texts: Can I use a 175 Watt rated dimmer switch with 4 50 Watt low-voltage light bulbs?

texts:
In my bathroom I have 4 x 50W 12V halogen lights, each one connected to its own dimmable capable transformer.

I've purchased a ceiling-mounted dimmer switch from Amazon, to replace the current on/off switch:

However now I've received the dimmer switch, on the packing it states:

  Min 40 Watt Max 200 Watt - 240V Tungsten Lamp
  Min 20 Watt Max 175 Watt - 12V Low voltage lamp

Now by my calculations, I've got 4 x 50W lights installed which equals 200W - whereas the switch states a max of 175W for low voltage lamps.

Is this an issue? Or does it just mean the lamps won't be as bright as they used to be?


texts: How to automatically adjust furniture leg length

texts:
My patio slabs were not laid perfectly true, so the garden furniture (uPVC table and chairs) wobbles. The usual fix for this is to slip folded paper or card under a leg – but I would like a more long-lasting solution.

I have seen plenty of products where the effective leg length is adjustable by screwing the foot further in or out. This is not what I am looking for, because it would need constantly adjusting as the furniture is moved.

Are there any (high or low-) tech solutions to this problem?

I am considering felt pads as a last resort. At least they may make the wobbling less harsh. Does anyone have any experience with this idea?


texts:
I am planning a project to remove a water heater. Following good advice on this website, I learned that it’s not a good idea to simply cap off the pipe. I should instead cut the pipe low on the ground, to avoid dead-end pipes.
Note that the pipe is thick plastic, not metal.
So the follow-up question for me is : how can I do this? I’ve been told I need a special machine to close the pipe. Any pointer on what this machine is, and how easy it is for a beginner to use it?


texts: Why does water come from toilet supply when water to house is shut off?

texts:
I turned off the water to the house to change the valve on a toilet supply line.  All of the faucets and the tub were cut off but water kept coming out of the toilet line when I removed the valve.  It just kept coming but not at high pressure.  The water was warm and the water heater is nearby. Its a slab foundation but I don't think the house has been replumbed thru the attic, and wouldn't such a gravity drain off go to the tub and faucets also?  It's a mystery (to me at least)!  Any ideas.

Have Wrench, Not Plumber


texts:
So Im installing ceramic tiles through out my home and i reached an area that is causing some concern. As im entering the bathroom and need to make some cuts up against the bathtub. But I've noticed that some of the tiles chip (small chips) when making cuts with machine and I was wondering if there was a way to make a clean cut with a portable tool?  I want to make sure if i need to make a cut that it will look clean since i will be unable to cover it with molding .

Or is there some thing that i can buy that is water resist that is like floor molding to hide the chips

Attached is the kind of tile i am installing

link


texts: I have Direct tv plugged into a gfci protected receptacle. All of the receptacles on same circuit will go dead, but not trip the gfci. Why?

texts:
Ok the GFCI is located in the 5th wheel upstairs bedroom/sink. It is protecting 4 of the receptacles in lower level next to sink and tv/stero area.
I have a direct tv (tailgater) plugged into the protected receptacle.  This receptacle along with the other 3 keep dropping power. I have a lamp plugged into one of the 3 receptacles just to monitor this.
The light will blink, it will also go out and stay out for longer periods of time, 30 mins or so and then come back on. Usually GFCI does NOT trip.
I have taken each receptacle apart and checked for loose connections but unable to find the cause. Anybody got an idea what I am missing?
Have checked all GFCI receptacles and they all seem to be working according to the GFCI tester.


texts: Is it safe to use a 100 watt LED bulb in a 3-way lamp that specifies using incandescent bulbs only?

texts:
I purchased a 100 watt LED and a 3 way lamp, but now that it is all assembled I have just read in the instructions:

  Lamp is rated for max 150 watt incandescent, Type A E-26, 3-way bulb. DO NOT USE HALOGEN BULB WITH THIS LAMP. Halogen bulbs operate at a higher temperature and pose a fire hazard

They don't mention LED. Is it safe for me to use the LED bulb? I just don't want to start a fire and I didn't see anything posted about safety warnings in the instructions.


texts:
I would like to install pelmet over a windows which is close to end of the wall. At the corner there is also an air conditioning unit, so I only have about 12-15 cm space and the pelmet itself is already about 10 cm deep.

What is the best way to install the pelmet in that tight corner?

____________________
|~~; |  AC unit  |
$  ; |___________|
$  ;
$  ;
$  ;
|~~

Legends:

$$$ = Window
~;~ = pelmet


texts: Can I use sewer cleanout as washing machine water outlet

texts:
I live in LA and we have a convenient sewer cleanout where I would like to place the washing machine. Is there an adapter for the cleanout to accommodate the outgoing water?
Thank you in advance!


texts: Paint on copper pipe leaching into my water supply?

texts:
It’s been months since this has been changed but I just thought about the fact that the pipe we connected to had been painted before.

Is this white paint leaching into our water?

Any way to tell?


texts: I am working in the garage with the garage door open as I am working for ventilation. My garage also has gym equipment in it. Am I able to use the garage again soon after or do I have to wait a day or so?


texts:
What is the best DIY method to use to prevent air and vapor (moisture) infiltration from exterior walls that have outlets and switches in them?  There is already a significant loss of insulation where the electrical box takes up the space.  Even worse is when there are easy channels for air carrying vapor to enter and exit these holes in the electrical box.  I have heard both good and bad about using caulking or minimal expanding foam on the exterior side of the electrical box.  Is there a better solution?

I'm not talking about foaming the inside of the electrical box as I feel that is a very bad idea.  Outside the box should not matter as far as I can see.  Any better ideas? (Aside from the plastic vapor boxes that are meant to be installed prior to electrical boxes, which don't allow the electrician to install the electrical box without a fight.)


texts: Can I use setting joint compound to fix a a plaster ceiling with metal mesh lath?

texts: Plaster repair with drywall compound? Will it work? I put fiber tape over the hole and filled it in with dura bond. Will it last or not? I need to figure this out fast. I have never worked with the plaster. But I am very good with sheetrock finishing. Can anyone give me some answers please.????


texts: How can I safely remove an outlet from service?

texts:
I have an unwanted 240v outlet in my hallway, on the same circuit as my sewer pump.

I pulled the cover and the box is an old work type. I noticed a junction box in this area of my crawlspace, so I suspect this breaker is controlling both.

Now, to my question: How can I safely remove this plug from service, while keeping the sewer pump active?

They don't make child safety stuff for 240v receptacles that I've seen, so I'd like to just get rid of it. Is it safe to remove the plug, cap the wires and put a blank plate over it?


texts:
I installed a Philips Hue RGB light strip in my home (this model). It plugs into a regular wall outlet and I turn it on and off using the Google Home app on my phone.
I would like to have a physical switch in the room which could also toggle the light strip. However I don't want the switch to interfere with Google Home's ability to toggle the lights. In other words, Google Home should be able to turn the lights on even if the switch is off. Is this achievable?


texts: How can I unscrew the faucet nuts in the tight space behind my sink basin?

texts:
My bathroom faucet is dripping, and I would like to change the washers in it. The problem I am running into is the placement of the nuts holding the faucet valves in place:

This is the underside of the sink, the hot and cold valves are on either side. The nuts holding the valves in are quite large, and they are inside a small recessed space that I can barely fit a small pliers into, much less one large enough to actually get around those nuts. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I might get those nuts off?

Update: Always make sure you are asking the right question first, see answer below. Though if anyone is in a similar situation to mine and actually needs to remove a valve, some of the other suggestions here look helpful.


texts: powerline adpater (ethernet) and recessed LED lights in the same room (same circuit)

texts:
I used to have computer, laser printer and a powerline adapter off the same outlet in the same room with no issues. I added recessed lights in the room, and now this trips the circuit breaker. The trip is not immediate and when I isolated the trigger in stages, I found that adding the powerline adapter as the last item (on circuit) triggered a trip. Is there something in the LED bulb circuit which would interact with the powerline adapter in such a way as to trigger a trip?

The installation is tied to a AFCI breaker: Siemens AFCI type QAF issue 1047
The breaker is from 2010. Do I need to replace the breaker and if yes what model?


texts: How should I prepare a 5 year old deck to be stained for the first time

texts: We built a covered deck on our home 5 years ago and never sealed or stained it. I want to do it now, but not sure how I should prep it. Would sanding it with an orbital sander be enough or is there some chemical I should use? Is pressure washing necessary?


texts: I am designing a compact home on a high elevation in Colorado.  There will be a finished basement apartment on a concrete slab and I was thinking of spiraling PVC pipe through the slab to heat it.  Instead of converting solar to electric and incurring transformation loss in the process, I was curious if some of my solar farm cells can be dedicated to directly heat the water in the tank before it is recirculated through the floor pipe as more efficient.  What types of setups/equipment is available?


texts: How to shine a dull mark on granite worktop?

texts:
I have a scratch on a black granite worktop which I have buffed away with a Dremel polishing piece and some 2000 grit sandpaper, however the area has lost its shine/lustre compared to the rest of the granite.

The scratch is gone and the affected area is completely smooth but it looks a little grey compared to the original surface - see the following photo:

The affected area is about 1cm in length so is relatively small. How can I restore the shine to this area?


texts: Can I cut these wires? Apartment build phone/intercom system

texts:
This system is defunct and no longer in use by my building.

Id like to get rid of the hideous phone on the wall.

Can I cut these? Is there an order in which to cut them?


texts: Why does my gas water heater have two pairs of water connections?

texts: Why does my gas water heater have hot and cold water connections on the top of the tank and another set on the side of the tank?


texts: Should water heaters be turned off (for safety) when not in use?

texts: Is there any safety concern regarding leaving water heaters on 24/7?


texts: Best way to attach Shelf Brackets on a Drywall for hanging Light Fixture without using Stud?

texts:
I'm looking to hang a 4ft T5 fixture for an aquarium to a pair of shelf brackets on a wall. I'm looking to mount it without using a stud if possible, maybe using a toggle bolt or drywall anchor.
I'm wondering if toggle bolts/drywall anchor would be strong enough to hold shelf mount + light fixture. Ideally I would want each one of the shelf brackets to be able to comfortably hold the fixture, in case of failure on either side.
Total weight will be about 20lb, but the fixture may be adjusted up and down on a weekly basis, so it may put more strain on the wall. The light will hang close to the end of the shelf mount, if that matters.
I'm trying to avoid using a stud because:

Studs are not located where the aquarium will be placed. (Not much flexibility for the location)
I live in a rented apartment where the contract states I cannot drill into any wood. This seems to be for doors, etc but I want to err on the side of caution. Our building manager recently passed away and the interim building manager is hesitant to give any conclusive answer.

I'm not much of a handyman, so let me know if I'm missing out any important detail and I'll add them on ASAP. Thanks in advance!
Links to items below. A better suggestion for a shelf bracket that's 14+ inches would be appreciated too. Going for a relatively sleek look if possible, but safety over looks.
T5 Fixture - Shelf Bracket 1   - Shelf Bracket 2


texts: How can I determine the rating of an unmarked dual-pole circuit breaker?

texts: I would like to install a new electric cooktop. The panel has a dual-pole breaker serving the current electric cooktop but there is NO marking on the breaker to indicate the rating. The new cooktop requires 60A. Is there a way to determine the rating on that circuit currently without hiring an electrician?


texts: Can i turn off my fridge(refrigerator) at night?

texts:
Question I use refrigerator just for keeping 2-3 water bottles, 1colddrink bottle, and maximum 0.5 kg of fruits and nothing else (no food items)!
So is it better to off my refrigerator at night and start it in morning? (As i will lost no food) and I think, I will save some amount of electricity and may be my refrigerator will last longer with me?
Note: I had purchased new refrigerator and I am from India and tempreture range of my hometown is (24°c - 44°c) in complete year.


texts: Is there any requirement that mandates a residential floor-installed electrical receptacle to be a GFCI type, when said location is in a dining area, NOT located in the bathroom, kitchen, laundry / NOT near water source? Thank you!


texts: What should I look for during a deficiency walkthrough?

texts:
I'll be taking possession of a brand new town house next month and we'll be doing a deficiency walkthrough to catch any issues before we move in. This is not a home inspection, but our ability to get the builder to fix any deficiencies from the building process. The property has a 2-5-10 warranty.

I'm looking for a comprehensive list of things to check while we do our walkthrough.

Furthermore, I've been in our new town house a few times and have noticed some issues with the paint. For example, poor cut job at the ceiling, not 100% coverage in areas. Is this too petty to bring up?

Some additional context: this is a Parklane development in Metro Vancouver.


texts: How do I reinstall the glass dome on my light fixture?

texts: Can't figure out how to get glass cover back into clips.  All three have springs but due to positioning, I can't hold all three fully back and get glass positioned in clips at the same time.  I keep thinking there must be a trick, but haven't figured it out if there is - any advice or do I need to go into the street and recruit another pair of hands and another ladder?


texts: Can a gas furnace be installed in an outdoor enclosure?

texts:
I have an old home in which ductwork has been retrofitted.  The ducts for the first floor are arranged under the floor.  The first floor is heated and cooled by an electric package unit sitting just outside the house.

I want to replace the unit with something more efficient, and split systems have the advantage in efficiency and price.  However, there's nowhere inside the house on the first floor where the furnace half of the system could be installed.

Would it be insane to build an outdoor enclosure to house the furnace unit so that it would basically occupy the same real estate as the current package unit?


texts: I've got a Sloan Royal Flushometer that is leaking after some flushes. The leak comes from both sides of the cover (see pictures). This happened once, years ago, and I fixed it by simply replacing the diaphragm so I tried the same this time with replacement kit A-1042-A. The leaking is less than it was but I can't stop it completely. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot or resolve?


texts: How to make a receptacle box flush with wall after it has been installed?

texts:
We have two receptacle blue boxes installed. Both were going to be in back splash wall so contractors had them not flush with the wall, I guess accounting for the thickness of the tiles.

Long story short. We're not gong to have a back splash around one of the blue boxes.

How do I make this blue box flush with the wall?  Also you can see that the blue box is not evenly inset. Left side and top sticks out more than the right side and bottom.

Do I just trim the plastic down so that it is flush? Does that somehow make it not up to code?


texts: Can you use Metal Oil based paint on wood Shelving

texts:
I'm looking to avoid using latex paint to paint my new OSB Wood. I know latex is easier to work with, but it seems far less durable when it comes to something that will see heavy use, like garage shelving.

The only type of oil based paint our local hardware store carries is Oil paint that's meant for metal.

Will that product work just fine for my 2x4's and OSB pieces?


texts: To mitigate radon, is a "positive" basement pressure possible during balancing?

texts:
Our basement has low-moderate radon levels, fluctuating typically between 1.5 - 4.  We do have a subslab mitigation pipe, but it doesn't work great.  For other air quality reasons, we decided to install an ERV in our basement.  After the ERV is installed, the HVAC guys will "balance" the pressure in our system, to ensure that the ERV is not putting an excessive pressure on the system.
For example, if the ERV put a negative pressure differential into our basement, this would cause the basement air to essentially "suck" in new air from under the house, effectively increasing radon level.  Therefore, it's standard to make sure the air pressure is balanced.
My question is - is it possible to actually do the opposite?  Adjust the air pressure in my hvac system so that the basement floor is kept at a slight positive pressure?  My logic here is that the positive pressure might act as a barrier to radon that otherwise would seep into the house through the basement subfloor and cracks and so forth.  Is this possible/sensible, or do I just not understand what I'm talking about?
PS - I do understand there is mixed information about efficacy of ERV for radon mitigation.


texts: How should I connect a new smart switch to my wiring?

texts: I think I have a regular 2-way Switch but there are 3 wires connected to it: 2 black wires going to the same screw and a red one going to an upper one. I'm not sure which wire is doing what. How can I identify or know which wire is which? The new switch I have is a smart switch and it's asking me for 2 live, 1 ground, and 1 neutral. Inside the box I could find the neutral wire and also a copper wire, but I don't know the others.


texts: Use existing neutral wire for ground and switch neutral to ground in breaker panel?

texts: My garage has an existing receptacle for NEMA 10-50 which has hot-hot-neutral. I plan to install a NEMA 6-50 which requires hot-hot-ground. Can I just use the existing neutral wire as ground at the outlet side AND change neutral in breaker panel to connect to ground bus bar?


texts:
We moved into a house that backs up to some trees and a small creek. There aren't any good trees for a tree house back there, but I would like to build a raised fort for the kids instead. It will be about 12'x8' and 7' off the ground.

I would prefer to use stand-offs so the support posts aren't buried. The soil is pretty moist and I'm afraid the support posts would rot off. However, we get really high winds at times and this will be free-standing. I know burying the posts would provide a lot more stability.

Will stand-offs work OK and be able to withstand high winds or are they only meant to be used on structures that are attached to something?


texts:
I bought a house recently and I have some experience with electrical but I am not fully sure what would be the best course of action since I've never had a detached garage where the cable would be buried between the house and the garage.
I already have a 20 amp breaker in the main panel and a subpanel with 2 breakers at 15 amps in the garage. They are currently wired with a 12/3 gauge cable.
I would like to upgrade to a 50A breaker on the main panel so that I could have in the garage sub-panel:

20A 120v breaker
20A 240v breaker
15A 120v breaker

Would you all be able to help me try to figure out what I should do?
My current plan was to buy about 100 feet of 6/3 Romex and use the currently buried conduit to pass the new wire and install on the current main panel a 50A breaker.
My main panel is 200A, currently in NJ in case anyone knows any code problems that I should be aware of.
Where the conduit leaves the house:


texts: Removing the concrete from the top off a concrete column

texts:
I have a number of 12" square concrete piers reinforced with 10 * 16mm rebars. The rebar extends to around 4m tall, while the concrete has been poured to a height of 3.3 metres.

This an error because the intended height of the bottom of the upper floor is 3.3 metres; however, as a 40cm concrete beam is planned to support the upper floor, this means that the height of the poured concrete should only be 2.9m, to allow for a 40cm beam on top.

So I am considering chiselling 40cm of concrete off the top of the pier and placing the rebar there. Does that pose structural concerns for the strength of the pier?


texts: Difficulty in driving a nail through with a nail setter

texts: I've been pulling the carpet up and getting the nails out from where the carpet tack strips were nailed to original wood flooring, but about a half dozen are now headless. I watched several tutorials on how to get them out, but one of the nails broke and is now flush with the floor. The internet says to use a nail setter to punch the hole in and then fill it up. I bought a set and tried that, but the nail would not budge at ALL. I hit the nail setter as hard as I could. Any thoughts?


texts: How should I wire this 2-way light switch?

texts:
I am replacing both of the hallway light switches in my house in the UK, and upon taking off the old switches, I am met with the following cable configuration:

Downstairs is a 2-gang switch that controls both the downstairs hall light, and the upstairs hall light. I know which wires control the downstairs light and can successfully wire it in.

Upstairs, there are 2 sets of 3 wires coming in, one with a red sleeve on the black wire, and one with the black wire disconnected and covered with electrical tape.

Inside the back box of the switch downstairs, there was also an extra piece of brown cable, but I don't know what it was connected to.

How should I connect these wires to a 2-way switch for the upstairs light?


texts: How can I effectively use Google Sketchup to render walls, doors, and windows?

texts:
This question falls dangerously close to being a software question, but it's definitely specific to DIY...

My house is around 100 years old. Off-the-shelf home design programs have nice libraries of drop-on components like walls and windows that can be adjusted somewhat to fit, but they are basically useless when trying to realistically match older wall sizes, window types, molding, etc.

I love Google Sketch-up and have successfully created a few basic plans in it, but I'm really tired of reinventing the wheel constantly, or compromising my 3D design and having just a big box rather than a detailed rendering.

I would love, for instance, to be able to create a wall that is exactly 9'4" tall, 5 1/4" inches thick, with a baseboard on each side that is 3/4" x 8" with a 1/2" turn edge, and quarter-round at the bottom. Then I'd like to be able to drop that into Sketch-up and simply resize it to create a custom wall that is exactly like those in my house.

Same goes with the windows, doors, trim, and various other odds and ends.

My experience, however, has been that SU can't think of anything as an "object", only as edges and surfaces. So, trying to reuse shapes is a bit of a pain, as is punching through walls and adding realistic windows, etc.

So, any tips on how to properly component-ize my designs?


texts:
I have a portable AC unit venting through a 5" hole in a plexiglass window. I replaced the glass window with a plexiglass one to do this since the windows that open are casement-style. The AC unit is not needed in the winter so I'd like to move the AC unit into the closet to free up the space. What is an elegant way to plug the hole (it is near the entrance so aesthetics is important) so that it is only removable from one side?

Update: The glass is not easily removable - at least not easy enough to justify swapping panels twice a year. Indoor temperatures reaching triple digits lowered our aesthetics standards for the summer... but I'm avoiding crude solutions like taping on a can lid.


texts: How can I restore old, brass coated door hardware?

texts:
I have some old (ca. 1906) door hardware. Some parts seem to be solid brass, but others are probably coated iron or some other magnetic metal. They were covered in some layers of paint, which I removed by letting it cook for about 1 hour in a mixture of water and NaHCO3 (baking soda in the US).
In the end, I'd like to end up with a matte brass look, quite like the key hole cover of the upper panel in the picture. Which products and/or techniques could be used to achieve that? If it turns out that the brass coating on the main frame can't be restored, how could I apply a new one?
(If you recommend a specific product, could you also post it's main ingredient so that I can find the analog in my country if that product should not be available here?)
Picture:


texts: How do I remove switches from this 4-way setup to make it 1-pole?

texts:
We have an old Intermatic timer for our front lights that appears to be wired to two three-way switches. Both of the extra switches are within 10 feet of the primary switch and are much more trouble than they are worth.
I’d like to remove the two extra three way switches so that I can replace the old timer with a modern single pole smart switch.
The wiring of the timer looks like this:

The west 3 way is wired like this:

And the east 3 way is wired like this:

How would I go about removing the east and west switches?
Thanks!
Here are some additional photos of the timer and from its instruction manual:

East box

West box


texts: Door hinge alignment impacting full closure

texts:
I'm having problems with a set of outdoor BBQ area doors I've installed into a frame installed in a brick space.  Basically, I have an opening constructed with two short brick walls as a space below the bench top housing the BBQ.  Against the walls I've placed some timber framing - just simple 90 x 22mm treated pine which I've aligned vertically and square to the opening.

Now the issue is that having constructed a simple door frame; a simple rectangular shape which has cement fibre sheet as the facing, I've attached a pair of easy fit hinges (i.e the ones that don't need rebating into either the door edge or the framing).  I've checked the alignment which seems ok (square and vertical etc)

The problem I'm running into is that when I push the door to close it stays open about 10-15mm as though the hinge is not closing properly.  Yet I can't see any issue with the screws which sit in countersunk holes in the hinge plates.

So do I replace with rebated hinges or is there something else that anyone would recommend to check?


texts:
I'm looking at two options to cement a bench.

1) I dig the 3 foot hole, pour cement...etc

2) I use a cement anchor. How does the cement anchor work? Is it as follows: create a mound of cement that extends into the ground and juts out slightly. On the bench's legs attach a metal border through which anchors get drilled? What type of drill would wokr, if I have the correct understanding?


texts: How do I renovate this wooden furniture?

texts:
The furniture aren't very damaged, just a bit worn.

I don't have any knowledge or experience on the subject, I'm just trying to revive them a bit. I'd rather not unscrew it or take it apart.

I found information on the topic, but I'm not sure which are relevant to my case, and I don't want to mess it up.

I think I have to use wood finish, but I don't know of which type whatsoever.
And I'm not sure either wether I have to scrub it.


texts: How can we protect this furnace from environmental conditions?

texts:
I was recently asked to look over the utility closet of a friend, and several things I saw looked very concerning, from an energy-efficiency standpoint.  This closet is approximate 3' x 6', and is in the (unheated) garage.  It shares a wall with the house, but also has an external wall.  Through the external wall are two 4" x 10" vents, one near the floor, the other near the ceiling.  The large garage-facing wall has a 48" double bi-fold closet door.

A sketch (arrows show exterior vents):

During the winter, outside temperatures can reach -20 F.  During the summer, they can reach 110 F.  This is a gas furnace, so I understand it needs clean air for combustion and free exhaust.  (It does appear to have a chimney.)  But I'm concerned that it is doing far more work than it should need to, when it's environmental air can easily drop below freezing.  Is there anything that can be done to make it's life happier?


texts:
I am now living in Cuenca, Ecuador. I have yet to see any electrical wiring that meets code. Zip, zilch, nada. Wires running everywhere, people scabbing onto other peoples houses to get electricity, etc. Since we do not have furnaces or A/C the electric company will install a 60 amp breaker in the same enclosure, below the meter itself. I saw the neighbors connection this morning. There are only three wires coming from the power company at this 60 amp breaker. It has been my intent to provide 4 wires, 2 hot, neutral and ground through the weatherhead and leave 3 feet of wire for their connection.

My shop, sub panel, is some 80 feet away. The wire will run in PVC tubing from a three hole "box" at each end. Within 3 feet of the meter/main I intend to drive a six foot copper bar into the ground and pull my ground out of the "box" to the ground bar and back into the PVC tubing. At the other end I would again pull the ground out of the box, atop which is mounted a mast that can be secured to an adjacent wall, and back up into the mast. From this mast I will have a drip  loop mid-distance to the mast coming through my detached structure roof (weather head on all three masts). I would then ground the ground bus inside the sub panel, which already has an isolated neutral bus. Am I correct in my plan?

The scary part down here is while the fellow was modifying/repairing my brick wall for mounting the meter enclosure, I provided an elbow coming out of the fitting to the enclosure and then the mast is connected to the elbow and goes up the ten foot length of mast. Once concreted in  place he, and a neighbor, are telling me that the electric company will not "allow" me to run cable INSIDE of the conduit!?! Sure enough, I look next door, around my house (15 domiciles in the urbanizacion) and not one of them has either a weather head, or cable running inside the conduit. In fact the cable, which is zip tied to the conduit, doesn't even have a bushing where it enters the meter enclosure!


texts: Are bumps on the inside of a cast iron drain pipe a sign of a problem?

texts:
I'm replacing a toilet's wax ring in my 1960 US home. With the toilet removed, I noticed ugly-looking bumps on the inside of the cast iron drain pipe:

Here's a closer, more tasty look:

Aside from any coprophobia, are these bumps a sign of a serious problem (e.g. corrosion)?


texts: Why would a polarized plug not fit into a polarized extension cord?

texts:
I purchased a somewhat expensive name brand Beautyrest air mattress.  Its electronic pump is at the foot of the bed, and its electrical cord is shorter than the length of the bed, making an extension cord mandatory (ugh).  The plug is polarized.
I grabbed a UL-listed polarized extension cord and tried plugging the air mattress into the extension cord.  Much to my surprise, the plug does not go in all the way.  It stops going in with about 1cm of the prongs exposed.
Thinking perhaps one of the extension cord receptacles had something stuck in it, I tried the other two receptacles available at the head of the extension cord.  Same problem.
I then tried plugging the extension cord's polarized plug into itself: no problem at all.
In all my years, I don't think I recall this ever happening before.  Am I not thinking of something obvious?  Is this likely a manufacturing defect, or is there something going on that I'm not considering?  Is it safe to use a Dremel to grind down the air mattress's plug just a little so that it is still polarized, but slightly more narrow?


texts: Store Refrigerator, Keeps Doors Open How Often

texts:
I plan to store refrigerator in my residence unplugged. I cleaned it well with all soap, 409 and disinfectant, and left doors open to dry out for few days.

They recommend to keep Doors Open for long term refrigerator storage. This prevents mold and mildew growth when unplugged. Question is, I want to keep doors closed when guests come for aesthetic purpose (instead of having piece of cardboard/stopper sticking out).

Is it okay, to leave doors open at night before sleep, (8 hours a day). Would this strategy be sufficient and if correct, how many days, should many days per weeks? Everyday? 3-4 times? Currently live in part of US where temperature is moderate 50-80, low humidity etc, Just want to be sure,

https://www.kentstorage.com.au/how-to-store-a-refrigerator-in-storage


texts:
I want to measure how many kilowatts or kilowatt hours are going through some of electric lines in my house. For reasons too numerous to list here I can't use a standard kill-o-watt (basically some of these appliances are hardwired and don't have plugs).

Can I use data that you get from an AC clamp meter to calculate kilowatts going through a line?

There are a whole bunch of calculations here: http://www.rapidtables.com/convert/electric/Amp_to_kW.htm

but I am not sure which one to use and if I can get all the information I need from an AC clamp meter.  If I can't use an clamp meter is there anyway to measure killowatts flowing through a line?

To be clear this is what I am calling an Clamp Meter:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Digital-Clamp-Meter-MS2002/202353289?keyword=ms2002

Clearly I am not an electrician so any help would be appreciated!


texts: How to meet code when the outdoor light is separated from the electrical box by a wooden spacer

texts:
After new siding was installed on the house, there is a 1-1/2"-thick wooden spacer between the electrical box for an outside light and the location of the light.  In my prior experience, the electrical box was always placed snugly next the fixture.  How does one meet electrical code when there is a wooden spacer?

The photo shows the Hardie board siding (yellow) with a 1.5-inch-thick wooden block (white) with a roughly 3.75-inch-diameter cylindrical hole. At the top of the wooden block is metal flashing (dark gray).  Inside the hole, you can see some Tyvek housewrap (white with blue writing) and the electrical box (gray).  The lighting fixture is supposed to go on the outside of the wooden block.

Is it OK, under electrical code, to just stretch the wires from the electrical box to the fixture and install the light fixture on the outside surface of the wooden block?

The house is in northern California, USA, in the San Francisco Bay area.

While researching this, I found two questions about wall-mounted outdoor lights but both have answers (here and here) showing the electrical box snugly meeting the light fixture.


texts: Kids locked the door Then tried to open it without the knob...any advice that won’t cost me a door?

texts: I really can’t afford another door right now and I need this bathroom... can ya help a fella out?


texts:
I have a GE side-by-side fridge with bottom freezer. It has an IMC-701 icemaker. It looks very very close to this icemaker from a Samsung freezer. It is entirely empty.
I've checked/tried:

The water filter - there's none, it has a bypass plug, and water comes out of the water dispenser just fine
The inlet hose - seems clear of ice
For ice dams - there's no ice anywhere
The fridge temp - set to 38 for fridge, -2 for freezer
Pressing the "test button" and holding it for five seconds. Nothing happens.
The ice detection arm - maybe it's stuck in the up position? I cannot see any way of making it come down, as the spring pushes it up every time as if it were intended to always be up.

In addition I should note that there's something dripping ice into the compartment of the fridge. I've cleaned out the drain valve recently, but there's still a layer of ice sitting on the bottom of the fridge.
Does anyone have a video of how the ice detection arm should be working on this particular model? Or any other tips or things to check?


texts: Tying additional lights to entryway light -- does that violate any codes?

texts:
My front door opens directly into the living room (no formal entryway) and there's a single potlight directly over the door with a dedicated switch. I'd like to add three more cans to the living room and tie them into the same switch, but I wasn't sure if that violated any codes requiring an independent entryway light?

I'm located in Arizona if that alters the code requirements any. Here's a diagram of what I'm looking to do:


texts: I am building a 20’x22’ attached Fiberglass pergola to my home. The ledger board is Fiberglas and a length of 19’. The pergola weighs approximately 700 lbs. The wind gusts can reach up to 50 mph, not including hurricane winds that can reach higher wind speeds. What lag screws (size and length) should I use if I am attaching the ledger board through vinyl siding and into plywood? Also, is there a certain pattern that should be followed (number of screws and distance apart)?


texts: How do I transition from a wood floor to tile that has a 1-1/4" height difference?

texts:
I have three of these transitions that I need to do something about. I thought I would be able to buy a reducer but them seem to top out around 3/4". After doing some more research it seems that I would need a ramp in this situation?

Is there something I can buy that would fix this issue?

Below is a photo of one of the transitions.


texts: Faking a hardwood floor or flat surface in a carpeted office

texts: My office chair is on a thin plastic office mat with cleats on top of thin shag carpeting but i find the chair rolls around and that mat constantly moves. it drives me crazy. What can I put on top of the carpet for the same feel as a hardwood floor so I can enjoy sitting at my desk again?


texts: How to adhere edge of bullnose tile to drywall as trim for shower/tub surround

texts:
I'm freshening up a bathroom and replacing some bullnose tile that covered up the edges of the tub/shower surround. I am also a complete tile novice. To be completely clear, there's no tile in the shower itself at all.
I understand that the "right" way to adhere tile to walls is with mortar, but the only part of the tile that actually makes contact with the wall is the 1/4" edge of the tile so that doesn't seem like a reasonable solution here. The original contractor seems to have just used construction adhesive, and while I understand that's the "wrong" way to do it (and as you can see I definitely made a mess of the drywall prying it off), I'm honestly having trouble coming up with a better option.
Is there a "correct" way to handle a situation like this other than Loctite?

UPDATES FOR CLARIFICATION
Totally understand the need for separation and silicone grout between tiles, but I appreciate you all making sure. My question is mainly about how to adhere it to the wall though.
I should be clear that there was never any adhesive or sealant between this tile and the tub. It was simply glued to the drywall and appears to be purely decorative (i.e. not water-tight). With my rudimentary knowledge my assumption is that I should put things back the way I found them when making changes, but I'm open to the idea that this may be a bad assumption in this case.
MonkeyZeus asked for a zoomed-out picture to help picture what's going on a bit better. The previous tile covered up where the surround is screwed into the wall, and I'm just trying to replace that with a nicer looking tile. It went all the way around the outside edge of the surround, so five "strips" of the bullnose tile (up the y-axis, in along z-axis, across on x-axis, back out along z-axis, back down along y-axis). I get that might be hard to visualize, but it's already too late to photograph mine and I can't find anything similar on the internet that isn't also tiling either the shower or the wall. It is not surprising to learn that the builder engaged in some wild improv.


texts: Adding insulation in a finished ceiling with no access

texts: I live in a condo that the builder decided not to put insulation between the different levels.  I don't own the condo above me.  With hardwood floors and no insulation it's very noisy.  My goal is creating a noise barrier, but insulation might do that as well.  The space is 8-10 inches between their floor and my ceiling.  Any suggestions on adding insulation to my ceiling?


texts: Can I use SharkBite connectors on a copper stub out?

texts:
Is it possible to use a SharkBite male adapter on a copper stub out for a bathtub faucet?

I am not well versed in soldering plumbing fittings and I would rather not have to buy the gas, a torch tip, flux, and solder just for one connection. Also, the copper stub out is only about 10" long and connects to Pex in the wall so keeping that amount of heat off the copper would be a good thing, right?


texts: feeding both sides of load center from 120vac backup source

texts:
In a situation of temporary backup power (short-term grid outages), is it ok to feed both "sides" of a standard split-phase main load center from a single 120vac backup source (e.g. an inverter driven from batteries and/or solar PV) ?  Assuming that the main breakers and any double-pole breakers are turned off.

Secondary question: What happens if any double-pole breakers are turned on ?   For a 240vac load with no neutral connection, it seems the load would see zero voltage, since the two "hot" wires are in phase; of course both hots would show 120vac relative to ground, but that's the case normally.  For a 240vac load with a neutral connection, I imagine it would be ok too; I think that's generally the case if the 240vac load is expected to contain 120vac loads (e.g. the control circuitry in a cooking range), and again it seems ok, since the 120vac loads would still see their 120vac, and it'd only be a problem if the load contained separate 120vac loads powered off the two hots and it was somehow necessary for them to be out of phase, conceivable I suppose, but far-fetched.


texts: How can I wire the Humistat and Humidifier so that Humudifier runs only during heat cycle?

texts: I have Honeywell Humidifier HE225A, Honeywell Thermostat TH6110D and Honeywell Humidistat H8908B all installed already. Now my Humidifier runs 24/7 wasting water because it is connected with the furnace blower fan cycle which is on 24/7. How can I wire it so that it only runs during the heat cycle.


texts: Plans for building a simple swing set out of wood

texts:
I would like to build a simple A-frame style swing set, which obviously has to be safe while also accommodating up to two swings.

Where can I find plans for building such a swing set?