texts: How can I repair a large hole in an interior door?

texts:
I locked myself out and didn't have proper tools to get in, so I drilled a hole directly above the door knob so that I could fit my hand in to unlock it. There is also damage to the outer edge where the latch is.
I don't have a router, or carpentry tools, nor the cash for a replacement.
How can I go about repairing this hole?


texts: My bedroom is directly under my neighbors living room, he has crazy hours and I find myself waking up constantly. I tried talking to him and he's trying his best but it's just not good enough. What can I do (other than buying a white-noise machine which I did and is helpful but not helpful enough) to reduce noise coming from the top floor neighbor who admittedly walks around as if he weighed 5000 lbs.?


texts: Can I use just one hot and neutral screw for a receptacle?

texts:
I am replacing a receptacle (15A) and it has three hot and 3 neutral wires. Previously two backstab plus one screw were used on each side. I won't be using the backstabs on the replacement receptacle.

My question is: Do I have to use all four hot and neutral screws or can I simply pigtail all three hot and connect to a single hot screw? I'd do the same for the neutral side.

In this configuration I'd have only three leads going to the receptacle (including ground) instead of 7.


texts:
In the outer corners along the external walls of our house, and inside closets on external walls we are experiencing water and moisture gathering on the flooring and there is mold appearing on the flooring and baseboards.

We're not sure what steps we could take to remedy this, or what type of person we could call to assess the issues.

We live in a 1300sqft ranch-style house on slab foundation, it is about 31 years old. We purchased this house about 10 months ago. Our house is heated primarily with a Mini-Split Heat Pump (Heat/AC) and Baseboards. We also have a Wood Stove when it gets too cold.

Both larger heat sources (Mini-Split and Wood Stove) are on the opposite ends of our Bedroom and Office, but we also notice moisture build up in the corners near them as well so we don't believe that in itself is the issue.

The attic has 6 inches of insulation, if that would make a difference.

This picture is from our office.

This is from our bedroom.


texts:
I need to order new balances for my window. Embossed in corner pane is  MSCC.
Who is the manufacturer? Dated 02-06.
How do you unstick the bottom window?
Thanks!


texts: Screwed bolt past thread. Now it is stuck. How to remove it?

texts:
The thick metal plate has a thread for two bolts. By mistake I screwed one of the bolts in all the way. Now the bolt won't come out from the metal plate - bolt spins freely both directions. I tried to apply downward force on plate while turning the bolt in hopes that it will "catch on thread", but it didn't.

Any tips on how to get the bolt out? And is the thread most likely ruined in the plate and/or bolt?

P.S. this part is from washing machine where it goes into trunnion.


texts: Easy platform for a small metal frame pool

texts:
Recently I have been thinking about purchasing a small metal frame pool, something simple that can be taken down during the fall/winter seasons.  The issue I have is my entire backyard is on a slight but noticeable slope.

Is it possible to just use sand bags and wood sheeting to build a temporary and removable platform to put the pool on ?

Part of our backyard is asphalted and attached to our drive way and leads to a garage.  I figured since we never park our car in the driveway any way we can use that asphalted area to stack some sandbags and lay wood sheeting over top so more level.

I'm really looking for a simple removable platform that we can use and then take down when we put the pool away.


texts: Hand tools for cutting glued boards to size?

texts:
I'm a complete novice to woodworking - I have a few plans in mind (tables and such like) that involve gluing boards to make tops, sides and so forth.

My idea is to glue boards to make panels larger than I actually need them to be and then shape them to size afterwards... but I don't have a table saw, nor anywhere to put one should I buy one (without commandeering the dining room).

So my question is - what's the best combination of hand (power) tools to achieve this? I have a plunge router, so I was thinking of grabbing a circular saw, using that to trim the panels to roughly the right size and then using the router with a fence to square everything off.

What other options do I have?


texts: How Can I Correctly Attach new 4x4 Deck Rail Posts on the surface to an existing deck?

texts:
The previous 4x4 deck rail posts were notched and attached with nails on the outside of the deck.  We have replaced many deck boards (2x6 pt) and want to replace the railing using 4x4 rail posts.  We are unable to bolt them on the outside or on the surface in all of the proper places due to the location and layout of the deck and would like to mount them on the surface.

Is there a proper surface mounted bracket to do this that would be to code? or close to code? Some of the deck is above 8' off the ground.


texts: I am asking about utility rooms with gas. My main question is about the door in a dwelling. I have seen doors from city to city all have AHJ that have their own way of doing doors. Some doors are fire-rated ,hollow core doors with sheet metal on the inside was ok. Then next wants louvered door for air for gas. What is the law for doors? And does the size of the room  matter on door type for a dwelling.


texts:
I want to put a utility sink in my basement next to the washing machine.  The sewer is about 4 ft off the floor so it will need a pump.  There is an existing drain for the washing machine that connects with another drain for kitchen from floor above and then into the main stack.
Where in this setup is the best place to connect new drain from utility sink pump?  Split at the top where the washing machine attaches?


texts: Lights go out in part of the house whenever I plug.something in

texts:
Weird thing. Whenever I plug something (TV,computer, anything really besides the fridge which is even weirder)  in in one part of the house a bzt bzt sounds can be heard, lights flicker and electricity goes off in that one part for several minutes.
No safety goes off. Lights flicker several times during those few minutes until electricity comes back.
I will call an electrician, but any idea to what might be the cause?


texts:
This will come across as a silly question but I cannot open up the hose clamp for my dishwasher's drain tube. I need to unhook/open the tube, clean its head, then reattach. The metal clamp simply won't open, when I use screwdriver, the screw simply won't come out, it just becomes loose in its place but there is no way to take it out. I'm not sure how pliers would help either because I tried pulling the screw out and it didn't work either.

NOTE: I need to use the same hose , so I cannot break this hose. It's FAR beyond my expertise to change the whole tube, I'm just trying to clean the head to open it up. So I need to be able to reattach it.

Thank you very much for your help.

UPDATE:
Sorry for my bad wording: I don't need to reuse/keep the clamp, I just need to keep/maintain the tube/hose because changing it requires taking out the whole dishwasher. My dilemma is cutting the clamp without damaging the hose now.

The END SOLUTION:
Lots of great answers, comments and suggestions. I ended up actually forcing (force pulling) the tube/hose, and took it out. Once it was out, it was easy to just slip the shot clamp!


texts: Should I replace my roof or just fix it?

texts:
Has anyone done their roof by themselves?

I have a long term plan of building upwards (a second floor on top of my 1939 Cape Cod).  Problem is I may not be able to do this right now but my old roof already leaks.  It has two layers of shingles and I was told by roofers that it needs to be replaced soon.  I don't want to spend a bunch of money for a new roof if I'm going to be destroying it relatively soon (in a few years?).  So my options are to replace the roof myself or to just fix the leaks.  There are missing shingles and some soft planks and some leaks around the chimney but that's about it.

What should I do?


texts: How can I effectively drain foundation water along the sump pail location?

texts:
In my crawl space I dug out the perimeter to about 3 inches below the footings. I then laid rock and installed perforated drain with sock to keep out debris and laid rock on top.
I dug a hole for the sump basin in the corner at the lowest point.  Heavy rain came before job was completed and realized the majority of the water is coming in where the hole was dug for the basin. Started second-guessing if the basin should have been placed in that corner and that close to footer. How can I get water into basin?
There is no perforated drain in that corner. I was planning to attach drain pipe into each side of the basin leaving the side closest to the wall with no drainage pipe. How can I get the water from that corner into the basin? Thinking now that I should move the basin in about 2 foot and perforate the basin at the top so the water can drain into basin from that corner. Appreciate any thoughts any one has on this.


texts: Can I convert 2 two-pole 60A breakers into 3 two-pole 40A breakers

texts:
Considering a new electric tankless water heater.  But my 18yr old existing subpanel doesn't match what most new heaters use.
Any help on the best way to go about this would be great.
TIA

UPDATE:
Finding the quad breaker was tough, there's a shortage of supply these days, but finally got one.
Spent 9hrs yesterday, including 3 trips to HD, and it works! Changing the breakers was easy.  Striping the wires was the hardest part of the electrical work.
Thanks for everyone's help here.  Added an after picture below.
Total cost for electrical was about $100.  $60 for breakers ($44+$15), $25 of 8/2 wire, $15 for clamps and tape.  The heater cost me $650 plus $50 for isolation valves. Entire project was under $1000.


texts: is the 24v transformer output ~27v normal?

texts: i found my carrier 58pha090-016 furnace had no flame with the igniter on, and exhaust fan running, etc. it kept trying 3 times then stop. i reset the power switch of the whole system, the same cycle repeated. of course, i confirmed the main gas valve to the furnace from house was open, and the heater near by working fine. i testeded the power cable to the gas valve (White Rodgers modle 36j24-618, 1 stage, 24V) had 27V after the igniter on, and no voltage when the system off, that meant the control board and limit switches etc were all functional. More likely the bad gas valve.  I could replace the gas valve. however, i am not sure if the 27V output from the control board was the root causing the damage to the gas valve from the first place, or it's still a acceptable range? Ichecked the gas valve manual there's no range in its specifications.  i checked the output from the transformer (with label of 24V output) the reading was 27V.   some people online said the transformer range could be from from 24V to 28V.  if anyone has any experience about this, pleait's greatly appreciated for your advises.  thanks in advance!


texts: I am trying to hook up a new wi-fi thermostat.     I currently have 4 wires running, but there are many unsued that are terminated in the jacket of the wire.   No issues there.       However, when I get up to my furnace, I don't see a connection for a C wire.    The furnace is old, however, I am faily confident there should be a way.        Any help would be awesome


texts: How do I replace Studs and bottom plate if the studs have been cut half way up the wall and removed

texts: Should I put a 2X4 horizontal plate where they have been cut and then put a stud under it to a bottom plate, just like a wall. Or should I scab a 2X4 to the new stud like they said of the same one but it only had six inches cut off the stud.


texts: What is this pipe beneath my tankless water heater?

texts: While watching videos about draining tankless water heaters, I noticed none seem to have this beige pipe with odd silver cab at the end. Does anyone know what this is and its purpose?


texts: Remounting an undermount sink in a manufactured stone benchtop

texts:
The undermount sink in our recently purchased house has started to pull down from the benchtop, so there is a ~5mm gap and the seal has broken. It's only pulled away from one side but I don't think it will last much longer. It is a manufactured stone benchtop so I'm not sure of the best way to repair it. It seems to have been originally fixed with some kind of thick creamy brown glue that feels soft with some give. Judging by the way the glue has dried with drips running down it was mounted with the bench already in place.

What is the best way to remount the sink? Preferably without removing the entire benchtop first :-)!

EDIT: Added some photos

Under back of sink:

Under front. It hasn't pulled away from here:

Back of sink again. This blob didn't even seem to get put on the sink:


texts: How to find replacement toilet seat (American Standard)

texts:
How do I determine what seat will fit this toilet and are colored seats available?
Inside the tank are these numbers:
1459
388
M59
Aug26

Thank you.


texts: Not sure how to vent our bathroom - trying to avoid the attic

texts: We started a remodel of our bathroom.  It is a 1949 built house, one level with partially finished basement.  After we did the demo, we got concerned about entering the attic to do any venting.  It is an older home with vermiculite insulation. It is a small bathroom with one outside wall where the shower/bathtub combo covers that entire wall.  Is there a way to vent out the wall or down through the basement and out that wall so we can avoid the attic?  The basement directly below is unfinished.


texts: Part identification: Thermal cutoff within baseboard heater

texts:
We had a contractor paint our baseboard heaters with white thermal paint. He gutted the radiator's electrical components, in order to prepare the chassis for painting. In doing so, he snipped what he thought to be a wire, undid a few screws, and extracted the thermal cut-off switch.

After painting, he replaced it back, and we ended up with this botched disaster:

Good news: this successfully proved that these switches fail safely. A damaged switch won't "pretend" to be fine, and permit a fire to occur.

Bad news: the thermal switch obviously no longer works, as it is stuck in the open (disconnected) position (as confirmed with my multimeter).

Looking closer on the switch, I can see markings saying:

"Wilcolator" (an old brand-name)
"Type L"
"250 ℉"
"52"
"72"
"CL-5C"

I tried googling all sorts of permutations of these, but couldn't find this component.

I have three questions:

I think that I can replace this with any other 250 ℉ thermal switch that's rated for a sufficiently high current for the heater. Is this correct?
What's the precise name of this type component, so that I can find a suitable replacement?

I've tried googling all sorts of similar terms, like:

Thermal fuse
Thermal cut-off switch
Thermal cutoff switch
Emergency thermal switch
Thermal limit switch
etc.

Most results are thermal fuses (like for circuit board use), and the closest things I could look like this component, but without the copper tube.
Bonus question: What's the operating principle behind this? I thought it was liquid filled, and uses the thermal expansion that occurs in an overheat scenario to push a normally closed switch into the open position.

Upon closer inspection, this can't be it, because otherwise it would
stay closed if the liquid escaped, such as when the tube is cut like
this.


texts: Ceiling fan flashes once after installation but doesn’t work

texts: I installed a Hunter Coral Gables 2 indoor/Outdoor Fan with a remote. double checked wiring and it’s good, light flashes once. Fan or light do not come on. What could be the problem?


texts: Installing Roof - What else should be done?

texts:
When installing a new roof, what other work would be convenient to do? Since I'm having a new roof installed, I'm curious if there is something I would regret not doing in a few years.
Potentially convenient:

Chimney work
Roof vent installation
Insulation
Bathroom vent
Running electrical cable for a sky light
New gutters


texts:
My house has metal studs (South Florida) and I cannot figure out how to easily get screws into the studs for hanging things such as curtains. I have tried the pilot hole approach with a titanium drill but I still need my husband strength to get the hole made and it takes forever.

I’ve tried every type of self tapping metal screw they sell. Is there a screw that will make hanging things that require going into the metal studs (but not necessarily really heavy like a tv) easy?

Thanks in advance for your help.


texts: What's the best way to protect myself from a rental house?

texts:
I am in the market to rent a home, and am looking to compile a list of things to check both before and after taking possession. Before to make sure the house is in a condition I am aware of, like checking all the toilets flush and the lights work, no visible mold, and things I should be aware of to get in writing. After to make sure I keep myself from getting in trouble, like changing the locks and...well that's all I can think of for after.

I've found a couple pages online that mention things to do with leases but not so much with inspecting houses, and there are obviously different things to pay attention to with rentals than with buying a house.


texts: Should I use 10/2 wire for a lengthy 20A circuit?

texts:
I'd like to get some expert/nec compliant advice on my wiring layout. This week I'll be wiring the foyer, porch, living room, patio, kitchen, dining, gallery and hallway to master bedroom.

I was planning to use 10-2 for right-side of house vs. 12-2 because of distance and voltage drop from breaker panel. Would I be able to use 10-2 on a 20amp breaker? I am also think 6-3 for electric stove.

Thanks.


texts: What types of wood (other than plywood) can a staple gun penetrate?

texts:
I am going to build a shelf for my cat by wrapping a layer of faux fur fabric around a plank of wood. I have a mechanical staple gun and the fabric, now I just need to buy the wood.

Other than plywood, what types of wood would be appropriate for this project given the following considerations:

Lightweight, since it will be mounted on a wall
Able to be easily penetrated with a mechanical (non-electric) staple gun
Does not use chemicals in its manufacture (like glue is used to make plywood)


texts: While reinstalling a switch I noticed that the ground lug is different. It contains a hole just large enough to fit a #14 wire. Wondering what the recommended technique is to use this?


texts: How to attach a "lean to" shed to a garage?

texts:
I recently purchased the plans for this 10'x6' Lean To Shed.  It is designed to be free-standing, but I'd like to attach this to the back of my garage, which is more than large enough to accommodate.  This shed will be a bike shed and I plan to hang some bikes off the inside back wall.

My question: What is the best way to attach it? I figure I have three primary options:

Attach it at the roof line, and leave a couple of inches of space between the back wall of the shed and the garage
Attach the back wall to the shed and adjust the roof to eliminate the overhang
Eliminate the back wall completely, attach the side walls to the garage, and adjust the roof to eliminate the overhang

What is the best approach?  Is there a different approach that I'm missing?  Are there other considerations I should think about?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Replacing chandelier with new, No ground wire in old chandelier

texts: I am replacing a chandelier with new one, No ground wire in old chandelier and my vaulted ceiling is at least 30 feet high.  Can I just not connect the ground wire and coil it up so it is out of the way at the base of the hanging part of the new chandelier?


texts:
We currently have a renewable power system (solar, hydro and wind sources charging a 48v DC battery bank) connected to an inverter, which in turn supplies 230V power to a house.

Due to the lack of sun, wind and rain we have found that we need to start a (new) generator to top up the power in the DC battery bank.  This is achieved by connecting the generator to a 230v input on the inverter, which in turn charges the battery bank (the inverter is operating as a battery charge controller also).

The inverter has neutral tied to earth.  The generator also has neutral tied to earth.  Both have their own earth stakes.

Moments after the generator is started, while the generator is being synchronised to the inverter's supply, the generator's RCD trips.

If the house is turned off (isolated), the RCD does not trip.

The house has its own RCDs, but they haven't tripped.

Do you have any ideas of what the problem could be, and how I would isolate it?


texts: My son just bought a house in Charlotte, NC which was built in the 1960's. Is Aluminum Wiring and Pig tailing acceptable to Code in Charlotte, NC?


texts: Max water pressure of clear acrylic pipe?

texts:
I'm trying to diagnose an air locking problem with a power shower. It's currently fed by 15mm white plastic (type unknown) pipes for both hot and cold. I'd like to replace these with clear rigid pipes so I can "see" if and where air is getting into the plumbing.

The defacto "clear rigid plastic pipe" material seems to be Acrylic (often going by trade name Perspex by online sellers). The most readily available dimensions are 15mm outer diameter x 11mm inner diameter, sold in 300mm lengths (which is adequate for the lengths I need).

What's the maximum temperature and pressure of water such a pipe will take?

My hot water pressure is I'm guessing around 0.3 bar as it's a single-story barn conversion with a header tank. The cold pressure is more of a concern as it's pretty good; I'm guessing around 6 bar.


texts: Online tool to draw saw lines for plywood?

texts:
I want to make some shelves out of plywood which comes in 250x125 cm sizes. Each straight saw cut costs ~$3, so I would like to reuse as many cuts and at the same time fit as many shelves into on board at a time.

The shelves measure:

A: 132x9   7 pcs
B: 88*30   7 pcs
C: 71*9    7 pcs
D: 53*26   8 pcs
E: 79*15   1 pcs
F: 153*26  1 pcs

Question

Is the an online service of some sort where I can draw the rectangles and fit them into the big plywood board?

I guess I could do it in a drawing program, but I have never tried to use one before, so if there exists an online service for this exact problem, then I would prefer that.


texts: Do I really need to replace the anode rod?

texts:
Whenever I look online for information relating to anode rods in a water heater, they most often say they should be replaced regularly (4-5 years). However, every single plumber I have talked to has told me that they rarely replace the anode rods or they don't at all and I shouldn't worry about it.

So what's the deal? Is it important to replace the anode rods?

What brought this to my attention is that my hot water tastes very metallic but the cold water doesn't. I have a well, water softener, and a particulate filter system (three, 20" filters). The water heater had a lot of sediment when I recently emptied it and I have been noticing certain copper pipes have a lot of green corrosion in some spots. The water heater is 12 years old.


texts: Checking voltmeter on my Honeywell Wifi Programmable Thermostat

texts:
I have a wifi programmable Honeywell thermostat. Worked fine for 3 years, this morning I turned on my gas furnace for the first time this year and it would not go off, even when I set the "Heat" / "Cold" / "Off" to "Off."

Called Honeywell, and they told me to check the voltage "between the R and G wires" on the thermostat to be sure I was getting around 24 v. Not sure what they meant by testing "between the R & G wires." I've tested the R & G wires independently and they vary from 12v to 16v. I connect the COM end to a screw in the thermostat's case and the other end to the R or G wire screw. Are they suggesting that I touch the red cable to the R or G wire screw and them COM into the other wire screw?

Sorry, but I'm confused about the "between the R & G wires" comment. (Between the R & G wires is the Y wire, but I don't think that's what the tech was asking me to do. Difficult to communicate, because tech was on phone and spoke with a very strong, almost unintelligible foreign accent.

Also, why does my voltmeter sometimes read 13.0 (for instance) and at other times read -13.0? (with a minus sign in front of it).


texts: Feeder type and size for 60 amp. subpanel

texts: Is it possible/recommended to use E18679 (UL) ROMEX SIMPull AWG 6 CU 3 with AWG 10 ground Type NM-B 600 volts as feeder from a 60 amp breaker to install a subpanel? Subpanel will be located in basement next to main breakers panel -3' away-. 30 Amp subpanel will actually be enough for the intended purpose but i would like to have it ready in case of future expansions. I read about code requirements and ampicity table but i am not sure how to categorize this specific type of wire.


texts: How can I add a carbonated water tap in my kitchen?

texts:
I love carbonated water, but am sick and tired of buying it in bottles.  There are home water-carbonating appliances like SodaStream, but I prefer not to have another countertop appliance.  Can I install a carbonation device under my counter and have it available on a tap on my sink, similar to how under-counter water filtration devices are often installed?

I also prefer to have a co2 that can be refilled or at least recycled.


texts:
We have an interior French drain around the complete perimeter of our basement and has been working fine for 18 years until December 2020. I should note the company that put it in is no longer in business.
The 3 inch pvc pipe was placed underneath the foundation of the house with holes on the bottom and sits on a silt sleeve. Weep holes were drilled in the block at the bottom of the air gap membrane. It drains to two pump wells located in the corners.
Note: When researching issues on this site I realize a different type of pipe is recommended as well as an air gap membrane curves over top of the pipe and crushed stone. My air gap membrane does not seem to cover the pipe. I am attaching pictures from when the work was done and from today. This is the only spot that failed and it’s about 3 feet.
Any recommendations on how to address this?
Can I drill holes behind the air gap membrane? The water in this section is not draining to the pipe.


texts: Plumbing fixtures starve but water pressure 50 psi

texts:
We can't run a shower along with any other fixture in the house or it will slow to a trickle.
I've measured the pressure with a gauge and we get ~110psi before the pressure-reducing valve and ~50psi after it. Apparently, that's the recommended pressure.
I turned on the basement bathroom faucet and saw a ~10 psi drop in the internal pressure. Is that expected - or does the PRV keep a constant 50psi even under demand?
This is a 2 storey + basement 3800 sq ft house. I measured the pressure after the PRV using the tap for the washing machine. The house was built in 1986 - although there's evidence it's been replumbed since.
I'm now at a loss for what could be causing this.
It happens on both of the two working showers. For example, in the basement, if the toilet cistern is filling then the shower flow rate is about half. Upstairs, if anything else is running then that shower essentially stops.
If relevant, we also have a shower panel in another upstairs bathroom which is unusable because it is either hot or cold - nowhere in between.


texts:
I want to add electric heat to my 750 square foot garage by way of an overhead 7.5 or 10 KW heater.  Adding a sub panel would allow me other options for power for the following:

Heater 220V at either 7.5KW 30Amps or 10KW at 41 Amps
Table saw 110V 15 Amps
Small Freezer 110V 5 Amps
Central Vac 110V 13 Amps
Perhaps 8 110V 20 Amp Receptacles
I have a 200 Amp Service Entrance Panel (Siemens Model #G4040B1200) Service Entrance panel with 3 spaces left and the proposed garage sub-panel would require 65' of wire to connect to the main.

What breaker do I need in the main?
What specific wires to go the 65' to the sub panel?
Easy to put these in plastic conduit, so is that okay to do?
What else am I missing here?


texts:
I'm going to be removing the regulator off a grill to use with my RV since the port the gas will be coming from is already low pressure.  As I search for fittings, will any brass-like fitting be sufficient?

For example, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OYJF32/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ..

It's lead free brass with NPT threads (which I'm guessing is better?) Anything I should stay away from? Anything I should seek out?  I think what gave me pause about this particular fitting is it has a rougher brass appearance and doesn't specifically say anything about what kind of pipe it should be used on (some of the other fittings say gas, etc)

As long as the fittings are brass and don't leak, do I have anything to be overly concerned about?


texts: Refrigerator won't cool if it's warm in the house

texts:
When it's cold outside (like in winter) and the interior temp of my house is around 65°, my fridge works just fine. But when spring/summer gets here (like now) and we get into hotter days and the temp in my house gets to 72° or hotter, my fridge won't keep cool. Freezer hovers around 40° and fridge is 60°
(Would be great to keep my house at 65° or lower all the time lol but I don't have central AC or the money to do that)
Any ideas on what the problem could be?


texts: Should I use an orbital sander or a belt sander for sanding a section of varnished floor?

texts:
I need to sand down a small section of our floor and thought I'd buy a small sander instead of renting one for the day.

I've been looking at orbital and belt sanders.  In particular the two models I was looking at are as follows:

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/makita-m9400-4-electric-belt-sander-240v/4558r

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/erbauer-ero450-150mm-electric-random-orbit-sander-220-240v/285fx

The belt sander is 940W whereas the orbital sander is 400W. This suggests the belt sander has more heft than the orbital model but I'm not sure what is best to use on our floor.  I like the idea of the orbital sander as I expect it will be easier to blend in the new varnish with the old coat but maybe that is nonsense.

Can anyone tell me which is better to use on varnished pine flooring?


texts: Any way to fix a shower handle dripping through the stem?

texts:
Unlike most answers I've found, this valve is not leaking at the seat washer. I still replaced that since I had the valve open. I tried putting some packing inside the concentric nuts, the silver one that holds the cover and the bronze one that the silver one goes into. Still I cannot stop the drip which only happens when the valve is opened to run the water.

The valve while leaking:

The only discernible markings are around the stem with the word WOLVERINE stamped into the metal.

Here is a picture of the valve stem for further reference:

And here is a picture of the manifold the valve goes into behind the wall:


texts: I put caulking in between tiles that had grout already underneath it. What do I do?

texts:
My floor tiles had unsealed grout already in between the tiles. I went to Home Depot and bought a “sealant”, but it was actually caulking. I ended up putting caulk over top the unsealed grout in between all of my tiles.
I realized later that, this is not how you seal grout. I’d rather not scrape the caulking off of the grout. Is there anything else I can do. Can I seal the caulk over the top of grout in between the tiles?


texts: something similar to zip ties? (heavy duty)

texts:
I have a dog kennel and framed roof with a tarp.

Traditional bungee straps for the tarp have too much give and stretch out over time. Additionally, any snow load causes the tarp to deform and dump snow into the kennel.

I tried 150lb tensile strength zip ties to keep the tarp taught, however these don't seem strong enough as I keep finding some on the ground from snapping in the cold.

Is there a either a much stronger zip tie (250lb tensile strength) or an alternative to attaching the tarp to the roof frame?


texts: What is coming out of my pipe and how can I fix it?

texts:
A water spot appeared on my basement ceiling, so I cut a hole to explore what was going on. I found the following:

Something is going on with the pipe, a growth of some sorts. I'm assuming it isn't alive so it must be rust? Was the pipe just never properly fitted together?


texts: Well pump won't shut off or get above 32 psi

texts:
Turned off power & valve to house. Tank and gauge read 32 psi. Drained the tank (very little water in it) Tank psi remained at 32psi but gauge dropped to zero very quickly. Took the tank pressure down to 28 psi (I have a 30/50 switch) powered back up with valve to house still closed, gauge still not going past 32 psi, opened valve to house and no change? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, can't afford a plumber right now and don't want to burn out my submerged pump.

Found the following info on the QD control box at well: model# 2801084915 1HP 230 volts SF max amp 9.8


texts:
I am putting in two drains in my bathroom vanity. The tailpiece is 1 ¼" and the drain outlet is 1 ½". In both drains, the trap is touching the white shelf in the vanity, so I can't lower that without cutting into my new vanity.

I had no problem aligning the first drain and it has been working well. Completed photo:

However, on the second drain, with the trap at 90°, it's about 1.5" away from the tailpiece. Here's where I ended up:

Without the extension:

I'm trying to figure out how to make this work without using one of those flexible tailpieces. I am very much an amateur and got lucky with the first one, so any help is appreciated!


texts: HVAC: Nest - Yet another 'C' wire question

texts:
I have a dual transformer system. At the AC/Blower unit, there are 'R_c', 'Y' and 'G' wires; there's 0VAC between the 'Y' and 'G' wires, and each shows 27VAC to the 'R_c' wire.

At the boiler, there are 'R_h' and 'W' wires, with 27VAC between the two.

Nest reports "N72 error: No equipment detected" on 'R_h', but heat is working fine.

The boiler is connected to my standby generator. When we lose power, the AC/Blower goes dark, and Nest suddenly reports it is unable to detect an HVAC system. The stat won't even let me navigate away to the heat menu, and quickly drains its battery. I'm wondering what my options are for using the Nest for heat during a power outage. I can run a 'C' wire up from the boiler, but my understanding is Nest (ridiculously) insists that the 'C' come from cooling. Appreciate any ideas.


texts: Replace glass table top with a metal grid one to convert it to outdoor

texts:
I have an Ikea Granas table like this one:

I don't need it anymore inside, but I was wondering if there's a way to convert it to an outdoor one. Theoretically, the table itself is glass and metal, so should work as an outdoor one well without changes, but I would like it to look like this:

I can't seem to find those metal grid table tops for sale separately to replace the glass one.
I would like to take off those straw seats and replace with metal grid ones as well.

Is there a place I could get those metal grids? It doesn't necessarily have to be table top/chair seat by design. If I could use something that would look like one, it's ok too.


texts: Can a water leak cause a fire in a light fixture?

texts: The upstairs bathroom got too much water on the floor and it dripped through to the kitchen below, by the ceiling light fixture (discoloration on ceiling around light fixture). The place was built about 7 years ago, with circuit breakers. Is there a fire risk having the lights on? Is there a fire risk keeping the lights off until it dries out?


texts: Why does water heater closet door jump open?

texts: I have a gas water heater inside a small closet with a door.  Sometimes that door jumps open a few inches, as if there is a blast of air pressure inside.  This door even has a small vent in it.  What causes this, and is it something I should be worried about?


texts: If popcorn ceiling contains asbestos, then does it mean it's made out of vermiculite?

texts:
Since the popcorn ceiling in older houses often contains asbestos, I wonder if this is because the "popcorn" is vermiculite which often contains asbestos naturally? Or did they purposefully added asbestos in old formulations?
I hear the newer non-asbestos containing popcorn ceilings are made out of Styrofoam or paper based material, but this doesn't tell me what the asbestos containing ceilings are made out of, especially the "popcorn".
Thanks


texts: Pipe is fine, solenoid is fine, but can't get hot water into my washing machine?

texts: So let my start off by saying, the installation techs installed the valves backwards at first, so I was getting hot water out of my cold, never noticed that until my room mate was pissed at me for washing on hot because it was going to make our electricity go up... So I switched the hoses blue to blue, red to red, now only cold water comes out!! Figured it was the hot water valve/solenoid, so I got a new one. Nope. Same problem. If I set to hot water and turn off the cold water I get a humming noise and no water comes out, or if I keep the cold water valve on, only cold water is coming out. What is the issue?! Is it the technicians fault? Did they screw sensors up by installing backwards? I have a Samsung model WA40J3000AW/A2. Brand new, no clogs or anything that I can gather. valves are clean. water comes out of both pipes when disconnected from the washer at the correct temperature.


texts: Shower diverter turns but doesn't divert

texts:
I just bought a house with a bathroom that has 3 spouts: bath, shower, and hand-held shower. There's a diverter knob (circled in red in image) that's used to control which spout the water goes to.
Well the knob wasn't working very well - I couldn't get the bathtub to work at all - so I played with it a bit. I turned it one way and I turned it the other way and I turned the water on and off. And that process seems to have made it worse. Now the water is stuck coming out of the hand-held shower and turning the knob does nothing.
Actually, as I turn the knob it feels like the knob isn't fully engaging. That same feeling you'd get if it were stripped just enough that you feel the pressure as you turn but then you feel a slight bump as the knob turns around over the nipple it's attached to. Well both the knob and the stem (is the image below called a stem) and nipple (what the stem actually goes into way inside the wall) looked good to my naked eye but to test I took a knob from another shower and tried it here and had the same effect.
So my question is what do I do now? Is it possible this issue is deep inside the wall? I mean I want to redo this bathroom eventually but I'd rather not right now. Is there any way to fix this?


texts: Can a load bearing beam be offset from lapping joists?

texts: I'm replacing a section of 4'' load bearing wall by a large 8''x8'' steel beam, and due to the size of the beam it would stick out to one side too much if I were to install it exactly centered with the current wall. I would need to offset it by about 3 inches to keep one side of the beam flush with the remaining section of wall. The joists above are lapped. Is this possible or the beam has to be absolutely centered with the existing wall?


texts: What is the proper hole size in tile backer for a shower valve?

texts: How big does the hole in the backer board need to be around the shower valve? My current hole is big enough to remove the cartridge clip. What is the purpose of the large hole pictured in the directions? Larger hole=greater chance of leaking?


texts: How to splice grounds in a metal box with a 30amp and 20amp circuit

texts:
I have a 30amp dryer circuit (4x10 gauge - 2hot, 1neutral, 1gnd) and a 20amp circuit (3x12 - hot, neutral, ground) coming into the same metal box. The 20 amp circuit continues on to another box where the 20amp outlet is and the 30amp outlet is in this box.

Do I need to splice all the grounds together in this box (and to the box)? Or, can I directly connect the 4x10 to dryer outlet (without any splices with the 20amp circuit), then splice the 12gauge ground together and to the box?

If I do need to splice them all together, do I need to use 10AWG to the metal box?

EDIT: Basically I'm wondering if doing something like this is acceptable, or if I need to also to connect the incoming line to the 30amp dryer outlet to the ground bundle.


texts: Any ideas on how to get this cartridge out? I've tried to remove the nut but the whole valve under the sink turns as well. I did remove the clip after taking the picture. Thanks in advance.


texts: This is a single story home with a gable roof. I went in the attic and do not see a beam over the wall in question.  The wall in question is in between the kitchen and living room and there also is a fireplace on that wall.  I want to remove half of the wall, to the fireplace, to open the kitchen up.   There was a pocket door, hence the header mid way in the picture. Do you think it is load bearing from the construction behind the plaster?


texts: Adding another gas line for a new gas range

texts:
I’m planning to change our electric range to a gas range.  On our basement level I’ve got the 1” main gas line in.  There are two Tees, both 3/4”.  One goes to the water heater and the other to the forced air furnace.

I would rather not add a 3rd Tee to branch off the main 1” line to go to the upstairs for the stove.  Can I Tee off the water heater line or would it cause a low pressure issue?

Thanks,
Paul


texts: Are bends allowed in a toilet drain above the 4x3 reducer?

texts:
I am finishing my basement, which was roughed in by the builder, but I need to move the toilet, since I lost 8" of wall framing in front of the main sewer line, the vanity would be stupidly narrow, to allow the necessary space to the center line of the toilet.

I've already excavated and figured out how much space I have to work with.  Originally I was going to add two 45s, but that only gained me 5" lateral movement, and was insanely tight.

My gut says working with 4" pipe, for a toilet, going mostly vertical, I am unlikely to run into any real problems unless I run pipe uphill.  Regardless, I am in a town that requires permits and inspections, so I don't want to risk wasting my time.

The first question is, is there a problem using bends above a 4" x 3" closet bend?  If that is off limits, then everything else is moot.

I know code says I can't use a sanitary/short elbow to go from vertical to horizontal, but I am not sure if I could get away with it in this case, since its essentially making and "S" and immediately going vertical again.  I figure if I use a long sweep for the vertical->horizontal transition, that is okay, but it is roughly 1 1/16" higher vertically to do that.

I have drawn a diagram of:

A: How things were built.
 B: Using 2x sanitary elbows to move things over.
 C: Using sanitary elbow + long sweep

All pipe is PVC Schedule 40 DWV

Would option B work (I may also use more length than the bare minimum between the two bends, that may be tricky to slope with such a short piece), or should I play it safe and go for C?

And for what its worth, it runs down a 3" pipe into a line that goes to a sewage basin.  The vent is about 3-4' away from the toilet line, and it is a 2" vent shared with the sink and shower.  The sewage pump also has its own vent.  Right now I am 21" away from the back wall, since I moved that back as well, so I am going to be moving things both sideways and backwards.


texts: Trying to determine appropriate beam size for a header on a large sliding glass door

texts: I am considering installing a large sliding glass door in an Exterior wall with load from both interior 2 story slopped ceiling joists/rafters (new door going into 9' end) and on the other side is an exterior patio cover which is built similar to an exterior room i.e 2x8 on 16c. The rough opening would be approx 15'. Looking at calculators it 2- 2x12's may do the job for that span but not positive that is the answer. Looking for recommendations engineered or otherwise so that I do not get any inflection considering it is a sliding door. Thank you very much


texts: Electrical box in ceiling has too three cables coming in. How do we know which ones to use for hook-up?

texts: Three sets of wires come into our overhead light electrical box. Two with white, black, ground, one with white, black, red, ground. Which wires do we use to hang our fan/light? It comes with white, black, ground. Why are there so many wires into one box? We don't have an electrical tester to see what's live.


texts: Can you change the colour of frosted glass easily?

texts: I Have a frosted white glass table that i want to change the colour to a black frosted look, can i paint over the white? Would this work or how else can i turn it into a black frosted glass table?


texts:
I am planning to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage on a 40A breaker (Romex 8/3 cable from breaker to outlet) for use with an electric car charger. The charger will charge my wife's car in the wee hours overnight.

The charger also has the option of coming with a NEMA 6-50 plug rather than the 14-50, if that's a better option.

Sometimes in the winter, I like to work in the garage. So, I got a plug-in heater that has a NEMA #6-30 plug and requires a 30A circuit.

I'd like to be able to unplug the charger and plug in the heater. Since the heater draws less power than the charger, as long as the circuit is sized for the charger I think this should be OK. Assuming so, here are what I see as my options:

Chop the 6-30 plug off the heater and replace with a 14-50 (or 6-50) plug.
Get an adapter from 6-30 to 14-50 (or 6-50).

Would appreciate any thoughts on this: Is it feasible? Are there better options (aside from running a separate circuit for the heater)? Is there any advantage to getting the charger with a 6-50 rather than a 14-50? Is 8/3 Romex sufficient?

Thanks,

AEP


texts: Human-powered lawnmower with horizontal blade?

texts:
I really like my "old-fashioned" reel mower.  It does a pretty good job, and I like getting more exercise.  Not buying gasoline is also nice.

But, it is slightly less efficient at getting taller plants, as they just lay down in front of it and pop back up behind it.

Is there such a thing as a horizontal blade driven from the wheels?  And if so, how do I find one?  (Or what is it called so I can do a web search?)


texts: What could be causing my spa filter to clog regularly/often; and how can I fix it?

texts:
EDITED FOR TL;DR:

I have an above-ground fiberglass spa in the backyard of my home. I'd call it a four-person as more than that would probably overflow the tub, but it's got seating for up to seven; my best guess as to water capacity is about 350-400 gallons.

The spa's circulation system is a combination electric pump/electric heater, which is upstream of and inline with a Hayward cylinder filter and housing. We bought a brand-new filter for it when we bought the house, as a part of the general process of making the spa usable again (it had been neglected for at least the previous winter). The filter's about a foot wide by a foot and a half tall; at least half the size of the smallest comparable Hayward filters that the HIWs and Leslie Pools keep in stock, and possibly smaller.

When the filter is new, newly-cleaned, or even taken out and air-dried for a few hours, the jets run great. However, after a period of just a few days of normal circulation with the jets "off", the water flow drops to next to nothing. From week to week the situation becomes so bad that there isn't enough pressure to siphon air from the intakes into the jets when the pump's at full (and so you don't get much massaging action; not much fun).

The circulation system is very simple; skimmer and bottom drain -> gate valve -> pump/heater -> filter -> gate valve -> jets. The two gate valves basically allow you to hold the water in the tub while you work on the pump or filter. There's no backwash capability, and there's really no good way to even fully drain the tub. This, along with a host of other little things (like, I dunno, the spa no longer being level because it didn't have a proper foundation) makes me think that some things were skipped in the installation.

Currently, the workaround when the flow is too low for a dip is to take out the filter. This isn't a great solution because the filter housing is not easy to get to with bare feet, and if we let it go then obviously the water isn't being filtered and turns cloudy and green. To clean the filter, I remove it, rinse it off well, then soak it in filter cleaner, rinse well again, and reinstall it. This works for a week and then I have to repeat the whole process, which adds up to two hours to the regular spa maintenance that otherwise takes less than a half an hour (skim, brush, net, test, balance, shock, new chlorine tab, test again).

Is there a problem here? I think so. I think either the pump isn't strong enough to get good flow unless the filter is completely clean, or the filter is too small and is gunking up too quickly. There could be something else; I doubt it's bio-slime as the stuff I use for shock is also an algaecide and it does a good job. Maybe too much clarifier (the shock has that in it too)?

Options:

Suck it up. Maybe the filter really does need to be rinsed out weekly; the FAQ from one of the comments says to rinse "periodically" and to only chemically clean the filter once a season or so (every time you need to drain/refill the tub).
Replace the pump with a higher-pressure one for better flow no matter the filter state.
Replace the filter housing with one that has more filter area in the cartridge so it'll go longer before gunking up completely.
Redo the circulation lines to add backwash and/or bypass capabilities, allowing for a more automated clean-out and/or the ability to easily ignore the problem while in the tub (even clogged, the filter does a great job keeping the water clean, it just doesn't allow enough circulation when we want the jets on full).
Look at the products I'm using and see if any are contributing to the problem (adding too much hardness, too much clarifier compound, etc etc etc)
Drain, clean, refill tub (the water's perfect according to the last test strip; maybe a bit high on the pH)
Rip the whole spa out and start over (may sound extreme but there are reasons)

Pics when I can get them.


texts: Converting closed tread stairs to open tread stairs

texts:
hopefully I'm using the right term. It might be called closed stringer stairs to open stringer (on one side). Please correct me so that I know the correct term for this. I also refer to it as "cut-outs". Anyway, I have two sets of stair cases - one in the front of the house and one off the kitchen in the back.

Front stair case:
Used to be carpet and I'm putting down sand and finish hardwood. Right now, the 1st 3 steps are closed tread, meaning the edge of the treads and risers on both sides butt up against the stringer so that u can't see the outline of the stairs if u are looking at them from the side. I want to change the look so that u can see the outline of the sides of the stairs on both sides, which is what i believe is called "open tread stairs". This means the treads and risers would come out farther in each side with a bullnose on each side edge.

PCan i just cut out the wall and skirtboard using a recip saw along the rise and run of the stairs and then put the tread and risers over my cutouts OR do i need to reframe the side walls? Or, do i need to reframe the 3 steps entirely? If reframing each wall, what would that entail? Any examples/videos/pictures would be a huge help! If reframing the steps, do i use the same number of stringers (3) but just no skirtboard since it's open on both sides or maybe i use 5 stringers with the 2 extra going on each side (drywall going over them of course) to support the longer tread and risers?

Back Stair Case:
Currently both sides are closed. One side of each stair run is up against a main wall, so I only want to open one side of each stair run (the side the camera is facing - which is simply where the skirtboard goes up to). How should I go about accomplishing this?

My contractor got sick years ago and it's super hard to find anyone to help that won't sub it out and charge me a massive fee, so I'm trying to do it myself.

Thanks for the help!

I've attached a few photos. The first 3 are of the back stairs. The 4th, in case my description is of what I want them to look like after is not clear, is of what I'm referring to as "open stair tread" (possibly called open stringer..let me know if not correct terminology). The photo shows the landing as being open but my landing will remain closed since it's a full wall that encloses the landing.

The 5th photo is of the front stairs. Only the first 3 steps need to be converted from closed tread to open tread.


texts:
Previous owners didn't leave a remote, so I need to get a replacement. Should be easy enough. But no brand or model name is visible. How do I identify this?

I bought a Hampton Bay replacement remote from Amazon and tried all 16 combinations for 4 dip switches, then borrowed a Concord brand remote from a neighbor and tried all 32 combinations for 5 dip switches, both to no avail. Getting desperate at this point since a recent power outage somehow left it stuck on at high speed. Any pointers in the right direction would be appreciated, thank you!


texts: How can I add 120v circuits to a 240v sub-panel with no neutral?

texts: I want to wire my detached garage from a sub panel that supply 240 volts to my AC unit and water pump. My problem is that there is no neutral leg in this panel. I tried bonding my neutral to the ground but that did not work because in addition to having 120 volts when I put my multimeter leads on black and neutral, I also had 120 volts on black and ground. What should I do


texts: What is the correct router bit for cutting shapes out of plywood

texts: I built my own small CNC router ( from a kit ) I'm going to be cutting some 1/4" plywood, basically just cutting shapes out of it, and I was wondering, what is the best router bit for simply making shaped cuts through plywood with as little router width as possible .. is there a specific bit for that?


texts: How to get roof access via Anderson Venting Roof Window

texts:
I have an Anderson Venting Roof Window in my attic that I'd like to get through for some roof access.  I believe it is an RV model, as seen on pg 11 of this Anderson parts catalog

I've removed the operator cover, but I can't see a way to disengage the operator arm from the sash.  There is a slot in the center of the sash rail that it appears the arm shoes should fit through, but there is no play in the arms to move to that position.

I even removed the center screw (was in the dark hole at the base of the two arms) but that didn't give any additional play whatsoever.

Below is a picture of the window fully open (approx. 8 inches).  How can I get the window open further?


texts: What grit sandpaper should I use to remove polyurethane from hardwood floors?

texts: I wanted to re-clear my hardwood floors in my home but I didn't know what grit sandpaper I needed to do so. What is the best sandpaper grit to use in removing the polyurethane coat on a hardwood floor?


texts:
I've been through 4 different water pressure boosters in the past 2 years with all of them eventually leaking.  I'm beginning to suspect that something in my system setup is the culprit, not just bad luck.  The system is pretty simple:

Domestic -> Booster -> Filters -> House

Could something like expansion from the hot water heater cause this?  Something else?


texts: How to repair this leaking garden faucet - update (broken stem)

texts:
I would like to repair rather than replace this garden faucet. It leaks ever so slightly: a drop or two every minute.  I don't know how this valve works.  I tried to open it. The picture shows how far I got.  I do not see a washer.  Is there a washer and, if so, how do I get to it?  If no washer, how do I fix the leak?

Update
I must have misunderstood the instructions on how to remove the stem. I turned the faucet handle counterclockwise and the stem broke off. (See photo.) Please clarify: what should I have turned to remove the stem?


texts: How to organize multiple electrical wires going into an ultra thin recessed light?

texts:
I am installing ultra thin recessed light in the basement and it comes with a very small metal box (probably 2x4 in in size). Due to the old wiring of the house, there are 5 wires coming in totally: power to light 1, power to light 2, 2 switches, and the light itself. It's going to be very "crowded" because the wire nut will have to fit like 4-5 wires.

I would like to "connect" everything" outside of the ultra thin metal box and only leave 3 wires (white, black, ground) coming into the box itself.

I am thinking of a few options:

Use an electrical box and connect everything in there but leave 3 wires out to go into the recessed box. Then close the box with a lid and just sort of "throw" it up in the ceiling somewhere (no screw or mount into joists).
Tear up the ceiling to find a joist and install a Round Hard-Shell Ceiling Box then connect everything there. However, the hard part is to connect existing wiring since some are not long enough. I may have to create additional lumber support. Either that or I have to use the ceiling box that has a metal bar to mount both joists. Regardless, this is major ceiling work and drywall fixes.

I am leaning toward Option 1 as I doubt there is any unforeseen issue. What are your thoughts?

Reference: the light I bought is

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GLKCV7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


texts: Hissing noise coming from the lights in my bedroom

texts: I have a ballast in my bedroom with three 60 watt led lights in it. The switch they are connected to is a brand new Lutron dimmer specifically made to work with led lights. The hissing is constant even when the lights are not dimmed, but it seems to get slightly louder when dimmed. I switched out the old dimmer to the Lutron in hopes it would stop. Their use to be a ceiling fan connected here. So I've come to the conclusion that there is just way to much power running to the lights hence the sound. Does this sound accurate? How would i reduce the power running to it to test my hypothesis?


texts: Where to turn cold water off inside the house?

texts:
This is somewhat a newbie question as I just bought this house. I assume design of plumbing must be common. So I wonder if I miss something.

Below is the "green" valve to shut off hot water into the house

But for the light of me I could not find the valve to shut off cold water in the pipe next to it.

Any idea?


texts: Is this possibly a basement water drainage system?

texts:
In our bi-level home we have a sump pump in the attached garage at the north of the house ( the floor in the garage sits about 3 inches below the grade of the rest of the basement ).

However, in the finished basement portion we have taken on some water on the south side so I'm looking to do whatever i can do mitigate the problem before i resort to having full on waterproofing done.

Something i haven't addressed yet, since i don't know what it is or where to start, is a 1" PVC pipe that runs ( seemingly ) the perimeter of the basement behind the baseboards, but at some point was capped off. The end of this line runs out into the garage and then up and out the exposed part of the cinder block foundation.

My inclination tells me there is/was an old sump at another location in the basement, which was removed at some point. Or, i am thinking some kind of DIY water diversion system, but that wouldn't explain how the pipe leaving the house is higher than inside.

Has anyone come across this before and could shed some insight on what it might be ?


texts: Can you paint a ceiling that has acoustical texture??

texts: My guess is that a paint sprayer might be easiest, but are the other ways that won't remove the texture?


texts:
We are in the process of buying a home and most of the homes we see have cracks on the floors in the unfinished part of the basements. We are worried about buying a home that is not structurally sound and one that will cost us thousands to fix down the road. We have also went under contract with one house and there was a foundation issue found on a wall. We backed out of the contract, but we paid the inspector $500. We don't want to keep paying $500 only to find out that the foundation is bad. It will take away from our down payment and every penny counts for us. I was told by the realtor that most basement cracks are not a problem but only the inspector can tell us for sure. Can anyone tell me by this one picture if this crack is an issue? I am planning on looking at the home again tomorrow and can take more pictures if needed. We really like this home but we're scared to make an offer. In case needed, we are in the Denver metro area. Thank you for any help you can offer.
Michelle


texts: What are the design limits of a normal tub overflow drains (and their gaskets)?

texts:
We have a leak from the tub into the ceiling below.  I'm pretty sure it's from the overflow drain, but as soon as the home warranty plumber heard this he said "oh, that's the problem, the overflow gasket is not designed to take that much water" and basically washed his hands of the issue (and emphasized his great experience as a master plumber vs. mine [none]).

But this sounds crazy to me:  my expectation is that an overflow drain should be able to take as much water as will flow through it without leaking.  I agree it may not be able to prevent the tub from overtopping, but I do expect it should not leak unless you're pointing a pressure washer nozzle through it or something.

So am I crazy, or is he?


texts: Why does this new HVAC have open holes in the side?

texts:
My MIL has a Goodman HVAC installed and it's not cooling properly. I'm trying to understand what the outlets are for. One of them, is hooked into some PVC pipe which goes outside. The other outlet is uncovered and pushes out cool air.
I am attaching an image to show the two outlets in the unit. I am hoping someone can shed some light on what these do and if it may be related to the issues.
I Am wondering if it is installed properly or not.


texts: should i wrap exhaust duct joints of hot water heater?

texts:
i replaced my  hot water heater.  I used a single flexible 3" metal  duct tube to  go  from the new unit to a an old "y" connector metal duct that is near the ceiling in the utity closet.

I noticed at Home Depot they  dont sell high temp  foil duct tape. is it required or forbidden to  wrap the  joints/seams of the hot  exhaust stack  wiht foil tape?

the utility closet is inside the house, so im worried about  CO  leakage


texts: How to remove clumps of algae from pool after using algicide

texts:
So, we have a 1700 gallon pool that was stricken with algae, and our neighbors have one about twice that size that got hit at the same time.  We both shocked our pools and used an algicide that drew all of the algae to the bottom in clumps.  This was great - the water was clear again.  However, neither of our vacuums are working to clear up the clumps of algae at the bottom.

We have a vacuum that connects to our filter, they have a vacuum where you attach a hose and it pushes water through a filter bag on the other side.  In both cases, the algae just ends up circulating and clouding the pool again until we leave it alone and it all settles at the bottom again.

Our filters are doing the same work, roughly, insomuch as it's catching algae, but needs to be cleaned constantly and is not circulating enough to really clean it up (the algae was cleared almost two weeks ago now).

So, are there any tips out there on how to get it out short of emptying the pool, cleaning it, and refilling it?  If we go that route, pool season is over for this year.

Thanks!


texts: Newly installed ceiling fan, lights turn on and off on it's own - dimmer switch, breaker or light bulbs causing issue?

texts:
Help, I have a newly installed ceiling fan that is controlled by a remote control and the wall has a dimmer switch. (We had a smaller ceiling fan in place and replaced it with a larger fan to fit the room better). The 3 light portion of the fan works with 2-60 watt bulbs for 5 minutes.  Then light starts to turn on and off again.  When we had 3-60 light bulbs in, the light didn't work.  The limited wattage on the fan is combined 190.  3-60 watts shouldn't be over that.  Can anyone suggest why we are having this problem. I didn't install it, I paid a guy to do it.

Is it because all 3 of our bedrooms are on one breaker and now with the bigger ceiling fan we have exceeded some sort of power limit on the breaker?  Is it because of the dimmer switch?  Should I try 3-40 watt bulbs instead?  Help, would be appreciated.


texts:
I have a 10+ year old Dyson Vacuum cleaner. The top piece broke off. I'm looking for hints/pointers/do's/don'ts on how to repair the broken plastic.

Everything else works - it's only the plastic part that's broken.

I'm thinking Plastic Epoxy to bond the two parts and some sort of "Braces" on the two sides - with care to not affect the switch portion and any types of screws would need to be mindful of the wiring...

I just haven't seen anything that really addresses this type of repair in my searches. Plenty of hose repairs and day to day maintenance. The vacuum is top notch otherwise and I'd hate to have to replace it because of this..


texts: What steps should I take before staining a deck that has weathered for several months?

texts:
I sanded my deck last year, power washed it this year, but have not yet stained it because it won’t stop raining long enough to dry the wood for me to stain.

When and if the wood ever dries, what steps should I take before finally staining?


texts:
What could be the reason for the 2 white wires on the right center side of the box?  One connects directly to the Neutral bar.
Does there appear to be room to add a 240 breaker to this box?  I want to provide for an electric vehicle charging station.


texts: how do you remove a swamp cooler pillow block bearing that's stuck/seized/rusted on?

texts: One side of my swamp cooler isn't spinning right, it's like it's spinning the "whole thing" instead of just the shaft inside.  I presume that it's a "seized bearing" on that side.  But in trying to remove the old bearing off the shaft, there's a reason the whole thing is spinning, it's really seized on hard.  How to get off a very stuck one?


texts: bleeding radiator without access to the bleeder valve

texts: I've got a cast iron radiator where the end with the bleeder valve is shoved up against a wall. Is there any other way to bleed a radiator? Supply and return pipes are at top and bottom of the opposite side. What if I loosened the nut on the top pipe?


texts: Why am I seeing stagnant water inside the shower drainage pipe hole?

texts:
I was cleaning the shower drainage pipe (removing hair etc) in the upstairs bathroom and I can see water around 1 foot deep. See the pic.

Is that normal? Shouldn't the pipe be empty? If water stays stagnant like that, it can't be good.

If this is a problem, how do I fix it?


texts:
The 110 v electrical plug on my vacuum cleaner started to fray. I put on a replacement plug but I have a little difficulty pulling the plug out of the wall.

I would like to replace the plug with one that either has a handle or is big enough to really grip and with a shape that is easy to grip, so it is easy to pull out of the wall.

Do such replacement plugs exist and, if so, what are they called?


texts: How to determine what caused this crack on the wall?

texts:
All of a sudden this morning I saw about a 14 foot crack on a wall facing the outside (no neighbours) and I'm freaking out. I'm sure I would have noticed it before.  The fact that it probably appeared overnight worries me. Should be I concerned or is just a cosmetic problem?

Background: it's a condo which is only 1.5 years old on the 17th floor.  It's been -14 to -20 °C (7 to -4 °F) for weeks if that helps.

It seems to be a very superficial crack in the paint but I have never seen something like it.  The crack is a straight line starting 2 feet below the ceiling and goes in a straight line down.  I'm  used to seeing cracks that are crooked.

Is this type of crack common and what is the cause?  Does it require professional help?  Is the place going to crack?  How do I find out the cause?


texts: Can I solder 12/2 Romex to extend wire 5 ft?

texts: I'm sure this is going to be lambasted by the code gods, but is it SAFE to solder the wires in a Romex cable to extend it? Obviously I would ground the circuit as normal, just trying to avoid another junction box. Would I heat shrink each individual wire and then the outer sheathing as well? Thanks for any advice


texts:
I'm wiring a shed to use as an insulated tech workshop.  A 20A circuit for 10 outlets, 15A for lights, and a 20A for a mini-split A/C.  My main breaker appears to be 150A.
Should I just match the 150A on the subpanel, or is that overkill?
Is my house panel even big enough to run a sub-panel?
How should I go about choosing the correct/best size for my sub-panel?
I live in Georgia (USA).  The building is 100 feet from the house.  I'm currently planning on using rigid metal conduit and digging the trench by hand.
Here's a pic of my house panel.


texts: Pool Pump not working, gives overcurrent error, no sound whatsoever

texts:
Our pool pump stopped working about a week ago. Inspecting it more closely, it's an "Intelliflo 4 160". It has a small control panel with some LED's - when I press the "start" button, the red alarm button blinks continuously and the green power LED blinks in sets of eight blinks. According to the manual, this indicates "Over current alarm", with the following troubleshooting steps:

Examine fluid/mechanical system for source of overload.
De-energize motor and determine if motor spins freely.
Replace drive.

Given that the motor makes absolutely no sound at all (it doesn't seem to even "try"), I'm guessing that leaves us with step 3, "replace drive."
Any other ideas for troubleshooting steps?


texts: outlet not working but grounding screw is hot

texts:
I've got a non-working outlet that I can't seem to fix.

It's got two black wires, two white wires, and no ground wire.

I bought a new outlet (shown) and attached the black wires to the screws on the right, and the white ones to the screws on the left. (I didn't understand why there were two of each kind of wire, but read on this board that that's not uncommon. I still don't understand why there is no ground wire.)

When I turn the circuit back on, the outlet does not work, and I detect no current in either the hot side or the neutral side. BUT the ground screw IS hot. Yet as i say there is no ground wire to attach.

This is a weird circuit, tied in to a dishwasher and another light. The light works when the circuit is on, but the outlet and dishwasher do not. An appliance guy said he was getting current on the hot wire on the dishwasher, but not the neutral wire, and thought replacing this broken outlet would fix things. But I can't make the outlet work.

Advice?

The original outlet. It was installed upside down; I shifted the black and white wires in order to install the new one in the normal orientation. (Maybe that matters?)

I learned the outlet was hot by accident. Assuming it was all dead (having tested the black and neutral wires and screws with a two-pronged voltage detector, and since the outlet wasn't functional), I started to screw it in before seeking help here or from an electrician. There was a significant spark. I then used the voltage tester on the ground screw, and the light went on.

Despite the tile, this is nowhere near water; it's decorative tile on the opposite side of the kitchen from the sink.

Original box, showing the two black and two white wires. AS mentioned, the previous outlet was installed upside down, with black on the left and white on the right. No evident ground wire.


texts: What could this blue ring on my ceiling be and what are my options?

texts:
Today I noticed that there was this brightish blue ring emanating from a crack from my ceiling. I hadn't noticed this before.

Earlier this week my cat broke a full glass of water directly above it. I hadn't noticed the broken glass until I went to bed that night, so the water could have been sitting on the ground for about 12 hours.

What could it be? Mold? Staining?

What are some of the options that I have to fix the crack / stain / mold ?


texts: How to figure out max Watt rating for transfer switch?

texts: We bought a home with a transfer switch installed (seems old, can't find any documentation for it anywhere on the internet). I'm trying to buy an appropriate generator, but am not sure how high of a Watt rating I can go with. The label on the switch says that the generator should be capable of delivering not more than "1000 A., rms symmetrical, 250 VAC". FWIW, it's a 30 Amp switch, 125/250V, with 10 15 Amp max circuits and its made by GenTran. Thanks in advance.


texts: What should be considered when updating wall assembly in only one section of a wall?

texts:
Background: We live in a 1920s two-story foursquare home in New England. The house has painted wood shakes/shingles siding on the second story, and wood clapboard siding on the first story. We will need to replace a large section of the wood shakes on our second story walls, possibly the entire side of the building on the second story. The wall sheathing may also need to be replaced due to water damage. The siding on the first story appears to be in good condition. We would like to stick with some sort of wood siding.
Question: It seems like a good idea to improve the exterior wall assembly in the sections that will be accessible during the renovation. Which of the following improvements/changes make sense if they are applied only for the second story walls, not the first? What should be considered about the transition between new and old siding?

Adding a modern weather-resistive barrier/vapor-permeable house wrap (I'm assuming there is currently some kind of felt paper in poor condition)
Add a drainage plane behind the newly installed shingles (rainscreen mat or furring strips)
Exterior insulation retrofit (unlikely due to costs and thickness of the wall, but I figure I still include it here)

I'm concerned about the diverted water from the upper section of the wall somehow making it into the lower section. I'm also wondering if there would be condensation problems due to large differences in air tightness/insulation between the two wall sections.


texts: Can a gas fireplace insert heat an entire house?

texts:
I have a single-story 1400 sq/ft house (4 bedroom).  Here's a VERY rough sketch of the layout:

The house has blown-in insulation on the exterior walls but no insulation on the interior walls. Windows are single-pane aluminum (we're getting ready to systematically replace these this year).

At the current time, we don't have any heating (the fireplace that's there is a standard masonry fireplace but we haven't used it (there's a gas line hookup nearby but it's not connected).

At this point, we're considering a couple options:

1) Get a gas-powered fireplace insert

2) Get central heating.

The fireplace salesman naturally said that his solution is the best (citing something about fireplace inserts offering better energy/heat transference efficiency than central heating).

I like the idea of a thermostat-controlled fireplace insert but I'm skeptical that something like this could heat an entire house.

So my questions are:

1) Is it remotely possible for a fireplace insert to heat an entire house? Especially considering the rough dimensions of my house?

2) Are Fireplaces truly more heat/energy efficient?


texts: Need an apparently-discontinued moulding profile; where to look?

texts:
My wife and I recently bought a house, and one of her highest-priority projects was to strip some rather kitschy wallpaper and repaint the walls in our kitchen. This is nearing completion; however, the wallpapered wall had a paper border strip while all other walls have a crown moulding, so now I need a 16' length of the same stuff to paint and nail in place.

The moulding is not actually crown moulding, technically; it lays flat to the wall, and is used in the same room as both chair rail and baseboard. It would probably also do a fine job as window/door casing, which is, I think, its intended purpose. It's 3.5" tall and 5/8" thick, and has a rather generic profile with a top ridge, a swoop to a belly, then a crease that bows back out to a flat bottom border.

I've been to HD and to Lowe's (the two big-box chains in the area) and neither of them have the profile; there is one that's close, but IMO not close enough. I've looked at several suppliers online, and it seems that the pattern has simply fallen out of style in favor of slightly updated looks that are close, but no cigar.

At this point my father-in-law is saying to either check out a recycling outlet that deals in used/recycled building materials (I don't know of one in the DFW area), or look around for someone who can do custom millwork. Both sound expensive (the recycling outlets deal heavily in vintage stuff like hardwood floors; all I need is paint-quality moulding, to match what was installed less than 30 years ago).

EDIT: The profile I am looking for is on the left. The closest match I can find is on the right. If anyone can find a pattern number or any specific identifying info, I'd much appreciate it.


texts: Oven Door allows too much heat to escape?

texts:
I recently bought a used, Amana gas range.  It works, for the most part, quite well.
The problem is that the oven door is not making a proper seal with the range body, which allows too much heat to escape from the top, where the door meets the body.  Over time, I expect that the amount of heat released will damage the electronic control panel.

Do any of you experts have a suggested course of action to take?
I figure I could:

replace the hinges (they feel a little light)
tighten the hinges (how?)
replace the oven door gasket with a slightly thicker one

Comments and solutions appreciated.


texts: Should I replace an existing gas fireplace with electric?

texts:
Does it make sense to replace my existing gas fireplace with a newer electrical one?  Would the new electrical one require less maintenance?  Would it run more efficiently and in doing so cost less to operate?

location = US / IL


texts: PVC electrical conduit connection to service panel

texts:
I am installing an outdoor conduit that consists of four #8 AWG THHN wires inside gray 1" PVC. I need to hook it up to the main service panel and I am not sure what's the best way to do it.

I understand I can install an adapter that hooks the PVC pipe, or some other conduit, directly into a knockout in the panel. The problem is that the panel is not easily accessible without tearing down chunks of the wall on which it hangs (it's solid drywall behind the panel and stucco all around).

Or I could terminate the pipe at a conduit body near the panel, drill a 1" hole in the stucco, route the wires into the wall through the hole and somehow fish them out into the service panel through an available knockout. But then some section of the wire (maybe 6-12" long) would hang inside the wall without any conduit around it.

Is that acceptable by the code or do I need a continuous conduit all the way to the panel?


texts: How can I add arc-fault protection to circuits in this panel?

texts: In my sub-panel that services the home I have 4 separate 20 amp circuit breakers all strapped together to trip all if one trips. On these individual circuits are the garbage disposal, clothes washer, dishwasher and all GFCI circuits? I want to install arc fault breakers but need more slots or room. I would like to remove the 30 amp and 50 amp breakers and install tandem 30/20 and 50/20 and use the strapped together circuits on those 20 amp tandems; is this possible?


texts: Fire rated cap for recessed lighting can

texts:
I am in the process of installing 6inch retrofit LED recessed lighting in the first and second floor.

This is a remodel.

I intend to use airtight IC rated cans for the same.
For the first floor there is no insulation
The second floor has insulation and roof access through attic.

The inspector with the township wants to know what type of fire rated cap I will be using.

I then started researching about the installation of fire caps which requires me cut into the sheet rock and close spackle  and paint it again. There is obviously more time/cost involved.

Question is are the caps really required by code?

I tried looking up NEC code for recessed lighting with fire caps but couldn't find much

Any guidance appreciated. If anyone can point me to related documentation of the fire cap requirements for LED recessed lighting that will be great.

Thanks


texts: How do I diagnose fluorescent light flicker?

texts:
We have 2x4 troffer fluorescent  lighting throughout the building. These are consistently flickering and it is annoying. Nearly every light in the building flickers, including in my room. (This includes lights on different circuit breakers.)

How shall I attribute the problem between power source, wiring, ballast or bulbs with minimum effort and wasted resources?


texts: Replace handles/locks on Novoferm garage door

texts:
We've got a Novoferm Canopy garage door, which has a plastic D-handle like this one:

(Photo taken from this site.)

While certainly functional, it's not very appealing visually.  The door itself is Rosewood and cheap plastic on it looks rather out-of-place.  I know I can get a different colour handle, but I'd like to get a brass handle/lock combination plate, something similar to this one:

(Photo taken from this site.)

Or maybe this one:

(Picture taken from this site.)

(I know these photos are for different type doors - they are for demonstration purposes only, to show what I am after.)

Yet, I can't find any handle specifically mentioning that they'd be compatible.  Does anyone know of any compatible handles/locks/etc that I could use to replace the handle the door came with?

I am comfortable with any required work - however there should be no visible holes left in the door.


texts: How high should the tops of concrete piers be above grade?

texts: I'm about to pour some footings for a covered deck. I'm going to be putting 6x6 posts on top of concrete piers, but before I cut my sauna tubes, how high should my pier project above grade? Is there a minimum height that's pretty much standard, or can I make the top of my pier be right at ground level?


texts: Is it safe to mount a medium-sized air compressor to the floor to stop or limit vibrations?

texts:
I have a 220V 6hp 33gal oil-less horizontal air compressor that aside from being noisy rattles all over the floor.

Stock Image:

I would like to either mount it to the floor or build a small frame/box for it to sit in tightly. I have a permanent location for it but want to make sure it "shaking" isn't a safety/stabilizing factor for the compressor/motor. The compressor was just rebuilt with all new seals/gaskets, sits on a concrete pad, and moves up to ~ 1 foot in a single cycle. The floor is only about 3 degrees off grade, a soft ball won't even roll, but the compressor obviously favors that direction which is away from the wall.

Also very open to other mounting or generic solution.


texts: I want to permanently remove and fill-in below grade windows in multi-family building. What's the risk?

texts:
I have a 5 family apartment building in NJ. There are 2 below grade window wells that protrude from the building and into the asphalt driveway. I want to fill these in permanently with concrete because the windows leak like crazy, and the wells are huge hazards (for tripping and the metal grates have caved in several times when someone drives over them).

What's the risk over filling them in?

The basement is unfinished. These 2 windows do not open. There are 2 other window on the opposite side of the basement that do open (and are not a problem).  Also, the tenants do not have access to the basement. The only people who go down there are myself and the meter readers. It's a full basement with 5 boilers, 1 hot water heater, 6 electrical meters and 6 gas meters.

Thanks!


texts: adding an GFCI outlet off an existing outlet. 120v two wire with ground

texts: The line is a dedicated line from breaker with 15Amp breaker...running a computer.  I want to pull a line off with GFCI outler for a Rinnai Tankless water heater.  I am told the WH only pulls about 70w.  Can I do this and what is the proper wiring diagram, please?


texts: Under what circumstances is galvanic corrosion a concern in electrical work?

texts:
I'm curious why contact between dissimilar metals in electrical work is seems to only be a problem in some cases.  For example, one must use antioxidant when joining aluminum and copper wiring in house wire and distribution panels.  But what about the following cases:

Copper wire attached to brass and steel terminal screws in receptacles
Silver-colored (aluminum?) wire in light fixtures joining copper house wire
Various kinds of screws mounting metal junction boxes to studs

Why are those cases not a concern?


texts: Water leak under kitchen after shutting off / turning on water

texts:
I'm working on an older 1950's home and was looking to replace a shower diverter (related post of mine: Replacing shower diverter head).
We turned the water off at the shutoff valve, did some work in the downstairs level of the house and then turned the water back on. All seemed good, but an hour later we noticed that in the kitchen on the upper / ground level of the house (which is also level with the shutoff valve), there was water coming from under the sink onto the floor. Note, we did not touch anything with the sink / kitchen area.
It seems to be leaking from the nylon fitting attached to the angles top on the cold side. We shut the angle stop and monitored it for 10 minutes... no leaks, so we believe it was the nylon host that goes to the cold handle in the sink.
What about what we did would cause this? I would like to be able to explain to the homeowner (not my house) why this happened.


texts: Would hardwood or carpet be better for a humid place?

texts:
We live in northern New Jersey (read: can get really humid).

We have wall-to- wall carpet in our bedroom. The humidity caused it to rise like a can of surströmming (rotten herring). I have three questions:

1) would you recommend wall-to-wall carpet again?

2) which hardwood (or maybe engineered wood) is better against humidity? Or is it more a matter of how the wood is installed, floating vs. glued, or perhaps a combo of the two?

3) can creaky floors be avoided? The realtor said it is because of humidity? True?

Additional info: The bedroom currently has a wood subfloor. The rest of the flooring has a plywood subfloor over concrete. I do want to replace the existing floor.


texts: What fasteners to sister LVL to 2x6 joist?

texts: We live in an antique cape and have 2x6 joists. My builder is making extra headroom for a staircase in our living room which involves reinforcing a couple joists with 2x6 LVL. Which is the best option to attach the LVL to the joists? I have seen many people recommend through bolts but would that weaken the structure if it is only 2x6 joists? If nails are better, is there a general rule of thumb for how many and placement per 16"? I'd like to know the best way to attach and specifically how.


texts: Can I install sheet vinyl flooring in a basement that gets wet on occasion?

texts: Our basement is usually dry, but every so often we have torrential rainstorms in the spring and we are downhill from our neighbors.  We get some water overnight in a small stream that we can mop up.  We had carpet with pad, but had to have it taken out this year. Would sheet vinal dry if a puddle of water came up from the concrete under it?  I can mop up the small surface stream that seems to happen every few years, but I'm concerned about the effect of any water that might come up under the vinyl floor.  Would vinyl tiles be better as any puddle that came up through the concrete floor would be able to escape through the cracks between tiles? Would the good vinyl tiles withstand overnight water and dry without damage?


texts:
I know:

Natural bristle brushes should not be used with water base paints. Synthetic bristles can be used with either.
A slanted end is easier for cutting in.
You want to avoid brushes that shed bristles.
A good brush has tapered ends on bristles.

Other than that, what makes the difference between a 3 buck walmart special, and a 30 dollar Purdy?

Edit:

There seem to be two interpretations of my question.

A:  How to pick the right paint brush for your painting task.  This is fairly straight forward, and there is a bunch of good advice out there on boar bristle, nylon, polyester.  And wall brush vs sash brushes.  It starts getting a bit vague when you take a closer look.  Purdy has 4 lines of brushes.  The XL  line has 11 styles that come in 41 sizes. Just what is the difference between a Blue Heron, a Dale, a Cub, a Dale and a Glide.

B:  Once you have decide what type of handle feels good in your hand, and have picked your size and cut how do you tell a well made brush from a bad brush in the store at the time of purchase?

It's the second question I'm seeking an answer to.


texts: Exhaust fixture for venting bathroom fan through roof

texts:
I'm planning to install a roof vent for a bathroom exhaust fan I'm putting in. I'm thinking about using one of these:

but I was wondering if I need to worry about it getting blocked by ice or snow? (I live in Minnesota.)


texts: Framing a new basement window in cinder block

texts: We recently purchased a home and this window was boarded up on both sides.  I removed the plywood to discover that it used to be a old coal chute.  I removed all the old fiberglass insulation that was in there but I am at a loss on how to frame this to install a window.  I know I need to finish removing the partially busted concrete on the left and right but I dont know how I would secure some pressure treated wood to frame the bottom.


texts:
We found this socket in a house in Belgium of the 50's. There are no wires connected, and there seems to be no numbers or identification on it.

Does anybody know what it is?


texts: Fill about a 2.5" gap between drywall frame and and brick

texts:
In the basement, we got done getting drywall up, but there is a gap between the frame and the brick wall. In addition, Perma-seal put there cover up the wall.
Eventually, the window will completely replaced and a frame will be installed.
For now, I would like to fill the gap between the brick wall and the wood frame. Insulation was installed, however I don't want to fill it with that as I have a cat who likes to look out the window and don't want that getting on her.
What can I easily put in there that's not too costly? Appearance is not a large concern.

Here is a picture of the gap.


texts: Should one apply salt/antifreeze on the road right before it snows?

texts: Or should one apply the salt/antifreeze after shoveling up the snow?


texts: What are my vapor-barrier options under Hardie siding?

texts:
I'm currently in the process of replacing all the siding on my 1940s home. It was originally wood dutch-lap and that was covered with felt paper and asbestos siding. I'm taking all the siding off, repairing what I can, insulating, and installing Hardie siding. I'm at the point of beginning to consider what to put under the siding, specifically as a vapor barrier.

I plan to add OSB of some sort, rather than just nailing the siding to the studs. The house needs a bit of structural help, and I think it'd make installation easier.

As a long-term DIY project, I like the idea of the HuberZIP because it seems easy and seems like it'd be harder to damage as I'm finishing the rest of the house. But, it's AWEFULLY expensive, at first glance.

How would that compare to standard Tyvek house wrap? Are there other options that I can consider?

I've also heard a little about Hardie-backer, but that sounds more like an interior sheetrock replacement. Is that intended for this purpose?

So the question is, what are my options, and what kinds of things do I need to consider when making that decision?

EDIT: In case climate matters, I'm in South/Central Texas, just NW of Houston.


texts: Clean mold/mildew from honed travertine tile in shower

texts: I put travertine tile into my shower over a year ago, grouted it, sealed it all really nicely, etc. To this day, the shower stays quite clean except for 1 or 2 tiles that must've been a little too porous. I didn't smear the sandless grout over the face of the tiles like I should have to fill in tiny holes but I did seal it twice before using it. Now I'm noticing some of the small pores in the niche bottom (it constantly has soap on it and is always wet, so no surprise there) and one random tile on the back wall are getting mold/mildew into them and I can't clean it out with a toothbrush or nylon brush. I want to get it cleaned before it gets worse so I can put grout into those tiles and re-seal again. The problem is I have no idea how to clean it. Regular nylon brushes don't seem to do anything at all. Is there a special fine-tooth brush or chemical I can use that will work?


texts:
Every year my rental house is inspected by the city.  Last time the inspector told me to add a backflow preventer (one-way check valve) to the handheld showerhead in the bathroom.  The showerhead is on a long enough hose that it could be submerged underwater in the bathtub, and this would prevent drawing tubwater back into the water supply.  (That bit seems a little hypothetical to me, but no matter.)

My problem is I can't figure out where to get one.  The home centers only have garden hose backflow preventers, and nobody there has heard of one for a showerhead.  I suppose I could call a plumber, but that would cost me a housecall, and I'd rather just install it myself.


texts: How can I smooth out a poor drywall repair?

texts:
I am a new 1st time home owner. The house I purchased is an older home, and has had some "renovations".

The people who were there before me 'remodeled' the kitchen by taking out a wall that had cabinets to open the kitchen up a bit more. They did a very poor job at fixing the drywall in the ceiling where the cabinets & wall were. Image below:

Is there anything I can do to easily smooth that out? It bumps out a bit, and is beginning to crack. Would I need to cut out that whole piece and re-do it to make it look half decent?

Also, in the stairwell in my home there is a very distinct line, where the 2 pieces of drywall on top of each other meet. Is there anything that can be done to minimize that line as well? (image below)

Click for full size image


texts: What would be the best approach for sanding down a oak table that has a checkered top with grains going in opposite directions. The squares are approximately 3" x 3". Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!


texts: Aggregate patio resurfacing - what are my best options?

texts:
I am looking for options to repair or cover a poorly maintained, exposed aggregate patio. Its approximately 20'x23', with no water issues.

After seeking quotes on resurfacing, I've decided isn't in my budget. I've considered either covering with wood decking or slab rock.

Can anyone tell me if this is even worth considering, or should I bite the bullet and have it professionally resurfaced?


texts: Septic line drop requirements - 100' too long of a run?

texts: I'm installing a modular building on a piece of land I've purchased. The land is only 60' wide with trees lining the sides. For me to set the modular building and still have the ability to get around the building, I'll need to locate the bathroom approximately 95' from the septic tank (septic is already in place). The minimum height of the floor bottom is 18" from ground (ground is rather level). The building is 36' long and the run would start in the northwest corner (where the bathroom is located) and run to the southeat corner as the septic is located off to the southeast at almost a 45 degree angle. I'm trying to figure If I'll be able to make that distance work and still have enough drop and not have the pipe sticking out of the ground. I know the line should drop 1-4"/foot, but I'm not sure if 100'is just too long of a run. Anyone have experience running a drop that long from say a mobile home?


texts: What might cause a top-loading washing machine to leak once and then be fine for a few years and then leak again?

texts:
I have a rental unit where I'm not able to watch the machine to observe what is happening but:

About five years ago it leaked and water soaked through the ceiling below. After cleaning up the mess I could not observe any leaks after running it through many cycles. I put a pan under it and told the tenants to keep an eye on it. A few years later they moved out. When I went to the house after they moved, there was water in the tray. I cleaned it up, inspected, found nothing, and it was dry for a few years.

Now the tenant tells me there is water in the tray. I'm going to go drain it and inspect and probably find nothing again. Is it possible that some odd thing is happening that I won't be able to re-create? Should I just tell them to drain the pan and tell me if it fills up again?

FWIW these are good tenants and I trust them not to let it overflow.

Edit - I have the model number. Are there cheap parts that I should just replace as a safeguard?

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/nav3330eww/1268/0153200.html