texts:
I need to install a 240V 40A circuit into my garage.  The end goal is to plug in a level 2 EVSE. (maybe it can be a 50A circuit? not sure).

I have an existing 50A GFCI breaker hooked up to 6 gauge 3 wire aluminum (labeled as 6 AL on the romex).  The aluminum romex extends from the breaker through my basement outside underneath the deck. There is no conduit, just the romex stapled underneath the deck.  The original intent of this circuit was to power a hottub (that no longer exists). The date on the romex is 1994.

My idea is to res-use as much of this setup as possible but extend it into my attached garage.  The circuit would need to be extended from the deck to my garage and then through the siding above the foundation.

1) Can you run romex outside your house and then back in?  I would think you would want conduit on the outside.  I am not sure this setup is code at this point.
2) Should I be worried about aluminum wiring and the heat stress issues?


texts: How to repair a French Door latch that's keeping the door from opening

texts:
I have an exterior French door that, in addition to the normal door latch, also has bars that extend both upward and downward as part of the latch mechanism.   The door handle is used to extend these bars up and down into the door frame to lock the door. The door handle is also used to retract the bars to unlock the door.
However, after seven or eight years of reliable service, this mechanism in the primary door has suddenly failed with the latch pins extended. The net result of this failure is that I can no longer open either side of the French door. Aside from the obvious inconvenience of a door that can't be opened, this also appears to block the access to the latch mechanism I would use to repair it.
I've tried removing the inside and outside door handles, but that didn't appear to provide useful access. I've also put lubricant in the door latch mechanism, but that doesn't appear to have freed anything up. Because of the structure of the hinges, there is also no good way to take the door off the hinges. I can get the hinge pins out, but the door can't get past the hinge.
Aside from drastic measures to pull the whole assembly out of the wall, are there any good techniques for dealing with this situation? Thanks in advance.
This is an overview photo of the door. Both doors have latch pins extending upward and downward into the door frame. These are extended and retracted by the latch mechanism and this is what is failing:

This shows the latch pin extending upward into the door frame.

This is the main latch mechanism. Not much to see here. Anything more interesting is on the edge of the door, which is what I cannot get to.


texts: Does airflow work this way between rooms?

texts:
In my 1950s rambler house, all the heating is via water-based baseboard units.  These units are all tied by a single piping loop to a boiler in the “center” of the house.  The main room has the majority of the units by simple length.

One unit in particular is on a shared wall between the main room and a bedroom.  This bedroom is often colder than the rest of the house.  I am wondering if strategic holes in this shared wall can improve the temperature in this bedroom.

Specifically, I have heard of the “popcan solar heater” concept, and to my way of thinking, the same idea should work for this baseboard unit, right?  So if I drill holes at the base of the wall below the unit that is in the main room, the unit should pull cold air from the bedroom through the unit and warm it.  If I also drill holes at the ceiling in the same wall to match, then there should be an air exchange so to speak.

Does this idea make sense?  Will this air exchange make any appreciable difference in the temperature in the bedroom, or would I be damaging a wall with no noticeable benefit?


texts: how to treat regular lumber for outdoor use

texts: What are the solutions to stain lumber for outdoor use, except buying pressure-treated wood? What I want to do is take the old lumber, which is still in good shape, but turned gray because of the weather/rain/etc, sand it, and then stain and re-use for decking. What are those stains/paints/etc. called? So I assume there is something I could stain boards with that would prevent it from rot, mould etc.


texts: How to adapt caster wheel to tubular table leg?

texts:
My kids destroyed one of their tennis table caster wheels. Parts of the wheel mount are stuck inside the leg. Is there a way to adapt another wheel? For instance, mounting the wheel externally? I don't need anything beautiful, just something more practical than having loose parts wandering on my garage.

Thanks!


texts: How to insulate metal roof on shed and avoid condensation?

texts:
I’m fixing up an old uninsulated shed. The roof — built of metal sheeting on plywood, nailed to the 2-by-4 rafters — needs to be insulated. What is the best way to insulate the roof that avoids condensation, which might lead to mould or rot?
I can think of two options:

Install batten insulation between the rafters, and then cover this with a vapor barrier.
Skip the batten insulation and tack polyisocyanurate boards onto the underside of the rafters, leaving an airspace between the rafters.

Option 1 risks trapping condensation between the insulation and plywood. Option 2 doesn’t seem to offer very much insulation.
Are there other options to consider?


texts: Is it okay to not varnish wooden furniture before use?

texts:
I recently bought a bedframe, but due to budget constraints, I didn't choose the varnished option, just 'unstained raw timber' - which is smooth, but not varnished or stained, as described.

I'm just wondering if this will be alright, unvarnished, for general use? I assumed because it's not flooring or visible furniture, that having an unvarnished bedframe will be alright.

There won't be any worries about it coming in contact with water spillage, etc. And will be mostly away from light sources.


texts: Exposure to asbestos, what to do with stuff and worries?

texts:
I learned just recently about asbestos in condos I had few possible exposures:

In old condo put 20 screws and nails into asbestos wall and took them out later, without cleaning the dust. What to do with carpet, bed, clothes, shoes, camping stuff...where it all might got? Keep or throw out? Do I need to wash every single clothes?

In new condo around 3 tablespoons of dust/powder from possible asbestos drywall, popcorn ceiling, tiles  from old renovation was uncovered under new laminate floor and blew into whole aparment, carpet, furniture, blankets... What should I do with all the stuff? Keep or throw away? How to make sure the place is safe?

I am worried that also there is still some asbestos dust left from the old renovation in hidden places, between baseboard heaters, in dust in popcorn ceiling,walls, closets... since the previous owner said they didnt test for asbestos before renovation (renovation was done 2 years ago, condo is from 1970)

I am worried about constant exposure because of many renovations in the condo building in common areas, elevator, garbage chute...Also blowing it inside while the windows are open from renovation or if exterior of bulding is made of it and its windy...

I am worried about exposure in common areas of the building in laundry room, garage... as I doubt its being monitored and I seen falling paint, missing vinil tile, broken pipe insulation...

Any advice appreciated!


texts: Why isn't my electric hot water tank producing hot water?

texts: We just bought a trailer and had the water turned on. We have cold water coming out of hot water side in kitchen and bathroom. What could this be? Also we have good water pressure in the bathroom but very low pressure in the kitchen. What could cause this? We checked the breakers and it is on. HELP!! We are not knowledgeable at all on home improvements.


texts: How to refinish antique stained with walnut?

texts:
I have a table made around 1905 and its base was apparently stained with natural walnut, which was a common stain at the time.
Most of the stain has been sanded off, but unfortunately there are few spots, like the inside of coves where the stain seems to have settled in more deeply and has not been sanding off.
I am afraid if I use a modern stain, it will become blotching where the old walnut stain remains.
If I sand more, I am afraid I might start to distort the shape of the cove.
I do happen to have natural walnut stain because walnut trees grow in my area, however, I am not sure I can match the exact color of the existing stain, so I might still get blotches.
What should I do in this situation?


texts: Replacing receiver on a ceiling fan, but receiver has fewer wires than the fan

texts:
I moved into a place with two fans controlled by one remote, which has been annoying. I bought the Hampton Bay Universal Thermostatic Ceiling Fan Remote Control and am trying to replace the existing receiver with the new one. The problem I'm running into is that the ceiling fan has more wires than the new receiver.

Wiring: Original Fan -> Original Receiver

Yellow -> Yellow (labeled "Motor 1")
White -> White (labeled "Light")
Red -> Red (labeled "Motor 2")
Gray -> Gray (labeled "Motor 3")
Blue -> Blue (not labeled)

https://imgur.com/a/V3betxw

Wiring: New Receiver

White (labeled "Motor N")
Black (labeled "Motor L")
Blue (labeled "For Light")

How should I safely and correctly wire the new receiver with three wires to the existing ceiling fan with five wires? Thanks in advance.


texts: The structural integrity of a backyard structure

texts:
I need a shed, but I really don't want to put a standard-looking shed. I would like something that's pleasing to the eye and fits my property. In addition, I thought it would be cool to have a second level that's part lean-to, part patio.

So I came up with the simple idea captured in the following sketch: LINK

I have never designed or built a structure so I'm wondering what obvious things I may have missed, why this structure may fall down and why my township may say no to it. Also, how do I go from this sketch to a blueprint that a contractor could work from?


texts:
I bought a shallow well pump (WAYNE SWS100 1 HP) and I have my sprinkler system installed in ground and hooked to valves inside valvebox.

Since this is my first time doing this I wanna make sure I get it right. I am unclear on how this well pump will actually work.

Am I supposed to have it hooked to the power all the time? And then when valves are opened(by my controler) the pump is going to turn itself on?

OR I need to hook the pump to my controller as well?


texts: Does a newly-whistling skylight mean it is leaking air?

texts:
We recently had the original roof of our 20-year-old townhouse removed and replaced. Since the completion of the work, windy days have seemed to cause different-from-before whistling around the skylight. I have not noticed any water leakage during the couple of rains we've had, one quite hard.

Does the new sound mean that the skylight is now leaking air? (Is that even possible?) Or is there a simple and perhaps common explanation like 'new flashing causes different air flow'? If the skylight has been compromised by the roofing job, which would be my guess if it's leaking air, I'd want to have it fixed since the roofers' work is warranted forever; but I don't want to start a fuss if this is normal.

Let me know if more information is needed.


texts: Why would a humidifier with whirlpool action be pulling air through the floorboards of the lower flat in a two flat house built in the 20's with no insulation, bring fumes into the flat from the watertank with a constant pilot and make the lower flat 75degrees, when the temp outside is 68?  Help im asthmatic have copd and no one believes this is possible, come here see for yourself!


texts: Insulating wooden beams / frame from concrete footings

texts:
I am building a wooden terrace based on frame made of pressure treated lumber (ground contact grade) placed on concrete blocks ("on-grade" footings). Something like this:

What I know is that I should prevent direct contact of wood and concrete (even if lumber is pressure treated) to stop moisture absorption.
What is the best solution for low budget project (also to not overdo it)?
There is a roof over most of the terrace so I hope there won't be much moisture involved but I guess I want to insulate everything same way.
The options I am considering as separation layer and already having materials to are:
1. Bituminous paint layer only:

2. Roofing pap:

Plastic strip: - not always possible as being thick and level of some of the footings do not leave space to raise the point up.

4. Any combination of above?
It looks like any option should do as lumber is ground-contact grade pressure treated and do not even touch the ground but want to add extra caution anyways (seems there is never enough protection against moisture).
Please let me know if I am overdoing it or there are other methods or aspects (like chemical interaction, standing water) I should be aware of?


texts: How do I make skirting boards removable?

texts:
I have been thinking about how to make a room easy to repaint, if I could remove the skirting boards with ease, then paint them away from the carpet and paint the walls without having to mask the skirting boards it would save a lot of effort.

However how do I make skirting boards removable without them looking “cheap” and how do I hide any imperfections in the flatness of the wall without corking between the
skirting boards and wall.

(PS, most walls here are built with brick with a plaster finish)


texts: Why do radiators need bleeding? Where does the air come from?

texts:
I had to bleed a radiator for the first time recently. This made we wonder where the air that gets trapped in radiators comes from.

I'm not looking for a specific cause for my own heating system, but a list of processes that might be the cause of air in generic central heating systems.


texts: I would like to acquire some actuators for my radiator valves. I would like them  to consume as little electricity as possible.  I therefore consider it is better to take normally closed actuators since the radiators will be heating less time than not. Is my reasoning correct or not? Thanks in advance!


texts: My water pipes seem to be NPS sizes, can this be right?

texts:
The plumbing in my new house is from the 1950s and I need to replace a section of it, a few feet of what I think is size 3/8 inch NPS. I figured this would be a simple matter, but I am completely unable to find this size pipe available in a consumer quantity.  It seems like it is only made for industrial purposes?  Where do owners of older homes find this type of pipe?

EDIT
Apparently my situation is odd (?) so I thought I would add some pictures.  You can see that the pipe I am replacing has OD of ~0.68" and the main pipe has OD ~0.88".  For reference you can see that a nearby 2x4 measures accurately on the calipers.


texts: How to fix "married" light switches that have been wired in series?

texts:
I have a light switch at the top of my staircase and another at the bottom. I would like to be able to use either light switch to turn on/off the light.

However instead they seem to be wired in series in that BOTH the switches have to be on in order for the light to work.

Is there any non-intrusive way to rewire this so that both switches can be used to toggle the light?


texts:
I'm looking for tips on how to handle large bluestone slabs. Each is 24" square, 1.5" thick, and weighs 80 lbs. They are geo-cut with thermal surface treatment.

Presently I have 100 of these slabs sitting on two pallets in my driveway. The pallets are right next to the patio but to reach the patio surface requires going up 4 ft of concrete steps. I'm debating moving each slab by hand up the steps as I place them vs running several slabs around the yard on a hand truck. Any tips on moving slabs from the pallet to the patio.

Having moved a few slabs already I find that the edges chip easily. We are going for a clean modern look (dry-laid with minimal joints in a regular grid pattern) so I would prefer to minimize on the "natural beauty" of chipped stone edges. Any tips on avoiding chipped edges? I plan to leave an 1/8" gap (filled with stone dust) when I place these to reduce chipping with thermal expansion. I was contemplating filing off the edges but it's 400 edges and I worry I won't get good results without some sort of a jig.

Can I use a vacuum-style tool to pick and place slabs? Do you recommend the hand-held style used for countertops or am I better off renting something larger that runs off a compressor and is designed to be maneuvered by two people?

I've also seen images of slab lifters that grip the edges of the slabs but I'm not sure how well these will work when I try to place one slab right next to another.


texts: Is there a minimum distance required from the bottom of the sink to the outlet?

texts: Is there a minimum required by code from the bottom of the sink to the horizontal PVC outlet that goes into the wall?  I am putting in a utility sink and have the top of the horizontal wall outlet three inches below the bottom of the sink (yes I have a p trap in there


texts: Is corrosion inhibitor paste conductive?

texts:
I bought some Alumiconn terminals to connect 3 copper AWG 10 wires (more secure than wire nuts):

There is corrosion inhibitor paste inside each hole. Amazon product description described it thus: "Ports of connectors contain a layer of corrosion inhibitor that provides resistance from oxidation."

Can these be detrimental to the conduction of the copper (maybe forming insulator layers)?

Also these can be used in all pure copper wires (all of the 3 wires) right?


texts: Can I reuse mounting holes into a stud for a shelf?

texts:
I'm painting and I have to take a big shelf off the wall. The shelf is screwed into the studs because of it's size. The wall is drywall.

Will I be able to use the same holes as before and keep the same strength? Or do I need to fill the holes with something?


texts:
I have an old 1930's house, the upstairs of which is in the pitched roof space.

I've just checked and it has no insulation what-so-ever up there, so it is very much the same temperature as a loft at the moment - The layout is like so:

(Apologies for the bad drawing - only have MS Paint here!)

So the red areas have some rockwall insulation, which will be easy to top up as there's good access to the eaves. However there's no loft hatch into the top "triangle" of the roof.

The green areas have no insulation at all, so we would like to add some. We've had a quote for a company to remove all the roof tiles and battens, put insulation in between the rafters, put new felt on (there's no felt either at the moment), reinstall the battens and replace the tiles.

The rafters are only 100mm thick so we can only put 50mm of PIR type insulation between them to maintain a 50mm air gap correct? I've read that by using a breathable felt you can use a full 100mm of insulation but unsure of this?

Is there a cheaper way to do this? As re-roofing is an expensive option, but I can't see any way to get insulation effectively between the rafters on the diagonal sections.

I don't know if something like this foil double insulation would be as effective as the PIR insulation and able to be run down the diagonals if we were to install a loft hatch to get into the top triangle?

BTW, I'm based in the UK so that may alter any options.


texts: Adding a smart switch to a box originally containing two single-pole switches

texts:
I currently have two single-pole switches in one box, with the first/upper controlling an interior light and the second/lower controlling an exterior light. I want to replace the second/lower with a smart switch while keeping the first/upper as a single pole. The smart switch calls for a neutral wire and a ground wire in addition to the load and line. However, my box does not appear to have a ground, or the ground was somehow incorporated into a bypass.

If I understand correctly, the neutral wire goes to the three white wires that are bundled under a wire cap at the back of the box and pass from top to bottom without going through a device. The load wire is the red wire that comes from the bottom of the first/upper switch (and currently attaches to the bottom of the second/lower switch). The line wire goes from the top of the second/lower switch through the bottom of the box to the rest of the circuit. However, the wire running from the bottom of the first/upper switch to the bottom of the second/lower switch is bundled via wire cap with two other wires that come from the top and the bottom of the box. Is that supposed to be the ground?
Also, what is that other yellow wire that feeds into the top of the first/upper switch rather than being screwed onto the side?


texts: Generator has 4 prongs, can an adapter be used?

texts: I bought a generator that has the power cord with 4 prongs on the end. Can I use a three prong adapter to plug into the regular house electrical or do I need an electrician to install a box that accepts a 4 prong?


texts: We had a granite top and a black stone sink installed in our kitchenette.  I installed the black strainer and disposal rings.  I used non-staining plumbers putty under the rings.  The putty that squeezed out around the strainers is a light color and is very noticeable.  After I removed the excess putty around each strainer a small amount remained in the groove around the outside edge of each strainer.  How can I remove the small amount down in the grooves?


texts: Can't get my new masonry bit to go further than about 3/4"

texts:
I bought a home last year and have been trying to put up interior walls inside my shop in the back yard.  I built a wood frame and want to secure the frames to the concrete floor using masonry screws.  The screws came with a masonry bit but I also bought an additional one just in case.  My first hole I drilled went about 1 1/2 inches and since then I am unable to drill further than 3/4" into the concrete in multiple spots using both bits.  For the life of me I cannot figure out why it can't go any further. I have tried vacuuming away debris while drilling, using oil in case the tip was getting too hot and just increasing speed and pressure in case I wasn't going fast enough.  I don't think I am any where deep enough to hit rebar either.

I am completely stumped.  Any tips are greatly appreciated.


texts: Drawbacks of a stacked top-loading washer + drier

texts:
We're considering getting a stacked washer-drier (top-loading washer). I like the option of soaking clothes before washing them, which is why I like a top-loader.

What are the drawbacks / things to consider when buying such a unit?


texts: Can I screw a US garden hose into any standard threaded pipe?

texts:
Is a US garden hose connector any kind of standard pipe thread? So that it could be screwed into a normal, say, threaded iron or PVC pipe?

I've tried a couple samples of what I had on hand and though the thread may start it doesn't really want to go on.


texts:
I am trying to replace an old dimmer switch in our kitchen with a Maestro Lutron dimmer switch.  The issue I'm having is one of the boxes contains both the hot line and the light.  I can get the system to work with the dimmer and a final switch but I cannot figure out how to get the existing 4 way switch wired in correctly.
The wiring diagram looks as follows:

I'm using the MACL-153MLH (https://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301629b.pdf) switch.
The FAQ leads me to believe that I cannot use a mechanical 4 way switch in this configuration.  (https://www.lutron.com/en-us/pages/supportcenter/support.aspx?modelNumber=MACL-153MLH&gqid=1120&qid=1125)
Their diagram for installation has the line and the load on opposite ends of the circuit.  Is this possible to install?


texts: Two pole breaker feeding three pole receptacle?

texts:
Panel has a 50 amp two pole (ie fed by two adjacent circuits) single throw breaker feeding a four wire three pole NEMA 14-50 receptacle for an oven. Just have pictures of all of this, have not had a chance to pull anything apart to verify how it's wired.

Question: can a three pole receptacle be correctly wired off of a two pole breaker? My assumption is that this is a single phase 240v oven based on the breakers, but the plug is confusing me.


texts: When cleaning HVAC ducts, is treatment for fungi and bacteria routine and mandatory after 20 years?

texts: Is treatment for fungi and bacteria routine and mandatory after 20 years? Or should we test for fungi or bacteria first? This would be in addition to air duct cleaning.


texts: Can I power my air conditioning with solar energy?

texts:
In my house I have 3 small air conditioning systems running at 8000 BTU/hour each. I would like to power them with solar energy. I found that I would have to generate:

3.41 BTU/hr = 1 Watt

8000 BTU/hr =  2346 Watts

That means to power the 3 units for 4 hours/day, I would need (2346 Watts* 4 hours/day * 3) = 28152 W*hours/day, or approximately 30 kWh/day.

I checked that in my region, I have 7 hours of sun each day. So to generate 30kWh/day, I will need something like 5kWh/hour = 5000 Watts.

first question:

Are these calculations right?

second question:

Going further, I'm able to generate now (i have 4 * 250 watts solar panels) 1kW, but I generate it 7 days per week, and I use the air conditioners, maybe 2 times/week. Thinking in this scenario, I don't have to be so concerned about how much energy can I generate hourly/daily, but weekly right?

third question:

Another important point here is the batteries where I will store the generated energy right? Any suggestion which kind of batteries set should I use?


texts: How can I increase the heating efficiency of a forced air system?

texts:
What are some DIY ways to increase the efficiency of a forced air heating system?

Please answer in Community wiki fashion: 1 tip per answer.

As @Jay Bazuzi pointed out, tips can also include ways to increase heat retention or other ways to save money on heating bills.


texts: Why exactly is WD-40 not a true lubricant?

texts:
According to this answer WD-40 is not a true lubricant. I don't get it - even Wikipedia says

  The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.

which sounds quite solid.

What exactly does WD-40 lack that prevents it from being a true lubricant?


texts: 3 Way switch with 4 wires to Dimmer with 3 wires

texts: I am replacing a 3 way switch with 4 wires and a ground to a dimmer with 3 wires plus ground. Not sure which wires are what


texts: What are reasonable expectations for LVP floor installation?

texts:
TLDR; What should a quality LVP floor installation feel like? Is it reasonable to have few barely noticeable soft spots? or should entire floor feel consistently solid through the entire area?

I had a CoreTec Plus LVP installed (7" x 48" vinyl planks) over a concrete subfloor. It is an interlocking floating floor. It was installed in place of glued down carpet.

Installer did remove the carpet and did scrape the floor. They did put thinset in one place. However there are few spots (including one where thinset was used) that feel soft, and I can see floor flexing as I step on it. Sound also changes as I walk on it. Most of the area feels rock solid though.

Installer claims that floating floor will always have soft spots, and that he has done a quality job per manufacturer's instructions and specifications.

My question is, before I go ahead and hire a certified floor inspector, how can I determine whether installation hasn't been done properly, or if I am being too picky about it?


texts: Can I improve efficiency by moving air ducts from attic to crawl space?

texts:
My attic has 2 feet of cellulose insulation in it.
On top are the air ducts and hvac units.
It gets really hot up there (live in South Carolina).
The crawl space under my house is always cool.
I am thinking I could save some on cooling in the summer if I were to put the ducts in the crawlspace.
What say you?


texts: Basement shower drain backing up when washing machine runs

texts: When running washing machine, water backs up through a nearby shower drain and makes a gurgling noise. How do I solve this problem?


texts:
There is a leak in my basement as you can see in the picture below, probably close to the roof of the basement as I've highlighted in my picture.

Question:

How can I find that leak, knowing I cannot spot it?

PS: Should I mention , the basement's roof is close to a rain gutter. Each time it is raining, the water drops close to that basement and the leak/hole is making the basement wet and sometimes flooded (when raining heavily).

Update: This is what stand above , on the corner where the leak is happening


texts: Surge Protection for Line Voltage LED Fixtures

texts:
I'm installing 120v LED recessed lights in a room, and I'm concerned about them wearing out prematurely. I've had bad luck in the past with florescent lights on the same circuit as the refrigerator. I think it's the power fluctuations caused by the motor stop/starts.

Similarly, I notice whole house fluctuations when the central A/C starts/stops. My theory is that the transformers and circuitry in the bulbs are vulnerable to these fluctuations, and I worry the same about the $80 fixtures.

Would an inline surge protector, placed between the wall switch and the lights, help prolong their life? I'm not interested in a whole house surge protector, since it's expensive, and the motors are on the inside.


texts: How can I fix my uPVC window that won't close properly?

texts:
The handle on one of my uPVC windows won't turn to keep the window shut. The window doesn't form a seal against the frame so it is getting cold in here! I've noticed that there's a small metal pin sticking out of the handle fitting. On another (working) window in the house, this metal pin is flush with the handle fitting. Here are some links to pics for comparison:

Bad window

Good window

What is this metal pin? Is it kind of safety catch? If so, how do I release it?

If the pin isn't the problem, how can I get this window to close properly? There are no screws to undo the handle. The locking mechanism seems to be via two sliding bolts on the bottom edge of the window.


texts: What type of space heater is best for an uninsulated garage?

texts:
I'm planning on applying stain and polyurethane to some furniture I recently built. I've been thinking about getting a space heater for my uninsulated garage, both to help the poly cure, and for my own comfort while working.

What type of heater would be best? Electric? Kerosene? I'm not planning on having any ventilation, so how does that factor into things? A friend of mine mentioned that a radiant heater is most efficient for uninsulated spaces. Is this true?

UPDATE: I decided on an electric ceramic heater. I got this Bionaire ceramic tower heater at Lowe's for $40, and I'm pretty happy with how it performs:

It dropped into the low 20's last night, and I was comfortable in the garage with the door closed in just a t-shirt and undershirt. It heats up fast and even has an auto shut-off if it reaches the desired temperature. (Although I don't think it's got quite enough power to get the garage up to 70°F.) I'm pretty sure if I put on an old sweatshirt and cracked the door a foot or so for ventilation I'd be ok too. The rated power output for this heater is 1500W, but I had to open the box and look at the manual to find out - it wasn't written anywhere on the packaging.

I wouldn't go by power rating alone though - get some recommendations or read some reviews. I got this Optimus heater first for about half the price, and it claimed to have the same power output. However, you could barely feel the heat standing directly in front of it. It went right back to Lowe's.


texts: Why are my newly-installed ceiling tiles sagging?

texts: I have a drop ceiling in a rent home the needs replaced. The tiles interlock, as you put up on and   staple it in place, the next one slides into the grooves and you staple it and keep going. Well I had about 40 tiles up and now they are sagging? Any idea why? Any suggestions on what other method I can use other than staples?


texts: How can I repair a particle-board dresser after sanding part of it?

texts: I have a dresser that is painted white with water stains on one end. I sanded and found particle board underneath. I can not get the damage to smooth out over the water stained end. What can I do to refinish it?


texts: My home was built in 1957. It has a 10x10 3foot high brick patio with a concrete slab on top. We are replacing the deck which is much bigger. The deck on the slab rotted due to water pooling in a small area on the slab. My question is, is that whole patio solid, because we'd like to drill drainage holes to remedy this problem. Can you help?


texts: Mounting a sliding barn door without a header

texts:
I have a hallway that leads into a group of bedrooms.  I would like to install a sliding barn door to close these rooms off.  There is not currently a header of any kind above this opening.  I'm fine with leaving it open for air flow.  But I need to span about 44" to mount the track. This issue is not about cantilevering into an unsupported space.  I have another wall in which to mount, it's just perpendicular...
I am debating between something like hollow square steel across the opening with a flush mount to the wall on both ends...
Or building a header by running a 1" x whatever down the wall on both ends and then sandwiching planks between to build up some stoutness.  The second image kind of shows what I am trying to describe.
Not sure if it's clear.  Any ideas would be helpful. I'd rather not build a full height frame in this location.  One side has door trim that I would need to remove to do that... not something I want to do.  Would rather just span the space.

I could be over thinking it.


texts:
I am in the process of remodeling my laundry room. Next step is to replace the flooring.

Currently the flooring is old one sheet vinyl glued down on concrete. I want to find out the feasibility of using click together laminate flooring in this application. Note that there will be full size washer and dryer sitting on top of the laminate flooring. Is that recommended or should this be avoided?

Let me add here that I am not asking about the type of vinyl flooring that has engineered plywood, MDF or hard fiberboard on the bottom.

Or would I be better off in this application to use a product like a peel and stick vinyl planking. (The place I work at recently replaced all their floors in hallways, entrances and high traffic areas with something like this).


texts: How can I wire an HD antenna into my attic?

texts: I have a 2 year old house 2 floors and then an attic that you have to use a pulldown to get into.  The house has an ethernet cable (90% sure it is an ethernet cable) that is in the attic, I have a HD antenna that I want to hookup in the attic, that comes with a 100 foot cable, so I am pretty sure it will reach there.  On the 1st floor I have a relatively cheap media cabinet where all the ethernet/cable cables originate from.  How can I pipe the tv antenna cable up into the attic?


texts:
what's the best way to seal off our sunroom so we don't pay to cool it?  It's really humid AND hot in MS this time of year (avg 90+ F).  We have a very "open" house, with a large dining room connected to the sunroom by one normal "door hole" AND one "double door hole", but the openings are...well, openings.  There's nothing at all there.  The sunroom doesn't have a/c, and only has single pane windows...about 10-15 of them, floor to ceiling.  It's a round room with practically no wall except between the windows.

Solutions?
-door(s)?
-curtain(s)?
-"magnet" curtain(s)?
-blanket(s)?

We rent the house, so major reconstruction isn't a reality.  Nor a desire...

Thanks!

edit: infrequent access is still necessary to the room.


texts: What could cause a gas fireplace to stop working during operation?

texts: The other day we had our gas fireplace on for over an hour. Once the logs get cranked up, we switch on the fan. The fan along with the flaming logs were burning steady for over an hour. Then out of nowhere, it just up and quits. Now the switch will not even start the fireplace, even though the pilot light is on (lit). Any suggestions or solutions?


texts: What animal are these coffee-ground-like leavings around my doorframe from?

texts:
We are finding strange stuff around the frame of our bathroom door. It looks almost like ground coffee, and has no discernible smell. It's getting out of hand: we cleaned it up yesterday and this much has showed up again today:

There is nothing above or around the frame where this could have come from: no holes or cracks.

Is this the work of some form of woodworm, termite, or some other animal?

We live in a hot, arid climate on the Canary Islands.


texts: Can insulation foam expand around window framing and cause warping?

texts: I was just wondering if insulation foam (I used regular Great Stuff from HD) can expand in dry conditions around a window (frame) and cause warping and damage to the window up to and including breakage.


texts: 2 gang smart wall switch installation wiring

texts:
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Trying to replace switch with smart switch.  Now I have 2 gang switch and two lamps in a room.  I bought 2 gang (1 way) smart switch, but struggling to understand how to wire the new switch. Please see pictures below.
So I see I have earth which is connected to the box, Neutral blue are all connected together, and many brown wires which I don't understand what to do.
 Could anyone help please.  This is in UK.


texts: How do I install stucco over an exterior painted stone wall?

texts: I have a painted stone wall that is not very attractive. I thought stuccoing over it could solve the appearance problem. Would I need a wire mesh? Could I stucco right on the stone? Would I need to remove paint or treat the wall with some type of wash to help the stucco adhere?


texts: A buddy and I are planning up doing a complete electrical service upgrade as he currently has and outdated fuse panel. The plan is to update him to a 150 amp breaker panel. I am comfortable with the work but while I was out pricing materials I was bombarded by a store employee on tons of code changes and needing the breakers that cost $50 apiece, making me second guess the job as I don’t want to start and get slammed with code violations. I just want to know what I should be prepared for as we weren’t planning on pulling new unless it was needed as some is old KT wire and some Romex. Any on-site would be greatly appreciate.


texts: Handy Box Extension on a Plastic wall box

texts:
I current have plastic wall boxes. I need to connect to a MC conduit, which connects to an metal handy box with an receptacle. (NM to receptacle is not appropriate in this case).

I also have another 2 gang plastic wall box which needs to be connect to a FMC conduit attached to a cooktop. Can I use a two gang extension ring with knockouts?

Is it up to connect to install a metal extension ring with knockouts over a plastic wall box, as long as I put in a metal grounding click with wire, and join that wire to the other electrical ground conductors?


texts:
I spend a lot of times on other areas of stackexchange, but this looked to be the best place to ask the following question. Feel free to let me know if it isn't.

I'm going to layout exactly what I'm trying to do, though I'll be asking my questions in multiple parts. I just wanted you guys to have all the pertinent information when considering your answer.

I'm trying to make a pet gravesite marker out of concrete. Here is what it will roughly look like.

It'll be about 2' long. It's going to be located in the mountains. Elevation is 4070', record low temps were -24deg, avg lowest yearly temp is 18deg. Lots of rain and tons of snow. Average highs are in the low 90's.

I'm going to need to make it to last. I work at a metal shop, so I plan to cut metal inserts, such as: a silhouette, name, birth/death date, and maybe a decorative border. I plan to stain it black so that it matches the horse's show colors of black and silver. I also wouldn't mind some light flakes of some kind to make the black pop a little. I haven't worked that out yet.

I'll build a form with the face open and level. I'll pour in the concrete and then set the inserts into the face while it cures. I'll use a hand sander and stick to vibrate the form and remove air bubbles and inclusions. I'll sand the face and metal inserts flush to accommodate any shrinking that occurred and make sure the face is perfectly flush. I'll buff the metal till it's bright and scratch free. After curing, I'll see if the inserts are easily removable. If they are, I'll remove them before staining. Lastly, I'll seal it against tarnish and the elements.

I should end up with a headstone shaped approximately like the one pictured and it'll be black (possibly with small metallic flakes) with silver looking inserts.

My first question on the project is what combination of concrete, stain, and sealant will handle the weather conditions I mentioned above. I had planned to use Portland cement from home depot. I heard it was extremely hard and durable. I found another page where they were making headstones for the graves of American pioneers and they said to use morter mix. I'm not well versed in concrete and don't know if the two are mutually exclusive.

I do know that Portland cement doesn't set up to a light color and I don't think the black stain will look good if I'm not applying it to a lighter color. Again, I'll also have to seal it against all that nasty weather.

So what do you guys recommend I use for this project. I figured I'd use Portland cement and add some colorant to get it to a lighter color to stain and polish it black. Then seal it with something durable. I know there are additives to concrete to make it more elastic or something, but I really don't know what they are or what they do. Thanks for helping me out here. Let me know if I need to clarify anything.


texts: What wiring do I need for a fan/light/night-light fixture?

texts:
I am replacing a bath fan/light with a fan/light/night light combination fixture.  I need a new wall switch with 3 controls.  I currently have just a cable with hot, neutral and ground running through conduit to the fixture.

What kind of additional wires do I need and how do I connect the switch to operate each function independently?


texts: Will 21 inch replacement blades fit a mower with blades that measure 20-5/8 inches?

texts: Mower is a belly mounted 60 inch mower mounted on a Mahindra emax 22. The mower is manufactured by Amerequip for Mahindra. Manual specifies three 21 inch blades; however, the aftermarket blades found on the mower measure 20-5/8 inches. I intend to replace; however, want to use appropriate aftermarket blades. Like 2x4 lumber, the 21 inch description might simply be a nominal reference, but, I want to be certain.


texts: Will a non-dimmable LED work if the dimmer switch is on full?

texts: If a dimmer switch is fitted for the room but we get non-dimmable LED lamps (GU10), I know there may be flickering problems with dimming, but will they work fine if the dimmer is turned to max?


texts:
Have an older round Honeywell Stat with 5 wires, G,Y,W,R, RH.  I have hot water heat (no fan) and a Central AC with air handler.

New stat has terminals for G,Y,W,R,RC.  Question is does the RH from the old stat go to R or RC on the new stat?  I assume that R would go to the remaining one.  I tried R to R and RH to RC and it's not working.


texts: How to find a faucet with a decent drain plug mechanism?

texts:
So I've replaced one bathroom faucet with a basic Delta model faucet. The problem is that the mechanism to raise and lower the plug sucks. They include a semi-hard plastic rod to connect to the rod that comes down from above the faucet to control the drain plug (I guess this is called the clevis?). But since it is plastic, when you push down on the rod, the plastic bends instead of pushing down on the lever that attaches to the drain plug. And the rod is attached to this plastic piece with only a screw (not the clevis screw) pressing into it laterally, which isn't enough force to keep the rod there, so when you pull up on the rod, it pulls out of this piece instead of raising the drain plug lever.

I just got another delta faucet and opened the box to find it has the same crappy mechanism.  I assume that the drain plug functionality isn't important enough to be spelled out on the outside of the box.

Are there better drain plug mechanisms on better faucets, or are they all like this?


texts: I have a genie medallion garage door opener. The door opens with the remote but won't close. The wall unit is not working. Not seeing any lights on the sensor, and I just replaced the sensors. I checked the wiring, which looks good.


texts:
I have a faucet similar to this one:

Unfortunately, the pipes were not secured very well behind the enclosure, which I assume is a common problem.  Specifically, the valve is not mounted to a cross stud, in fact, there is no cross stud like the one shown below:

Because of this, the pipes are free too move a bit.  I have two questions:

I am not sure how much to turn the housing screws that pull the large circular cover as with every turn the valve and pipes pull closer to the enclosure.  I am thinking that I tighten them up just past contact, plus a few rotations, and use some thread locking fluid.  They have been backing out a bit as the year goes on. Thoughts?
There is a foam/rubber seal behind the cover that is close the outside edge.  This prevent water from running down the wall and getting behind the enclosure.  Do I need to worry about water getting behind the metal sleeve, shown in the first photo?  There seals look like this:

But I am wondering if I need an o-ring like this:

I may answered my own question but it would be good to hear others' thoughts or confirmation, plus it may help others in the future seeking advice.


texts: How can I access pipes in my cement shower in an old home?

texts: My home was built in 1929 and I do not know when my "unwarranted" studio unit (1st floor/street level) SHOWER was added on.  The entire 3 sides of the shower are cement.  I know one of the hot/cold fixture has a small drip and want to have the piping accessed to change out to a single handle shower fixture.  The guy I've hired on Craigslist has 25 years experience but has never worked on a "cement" shower.  Is it possible to get to the pipes and why would it be built as such?  Want to retile once these leak issues are fixed (I tiled it 17 years ago as there was only paint on the cement).  My friend who lives in the studio unit did not clean the walls/grout very often which I believe why the tiles started coming off the past year, to include a leak somewhere.  Any suggestions as to what I should do is appreciated!


texts: my ceiling fan is hard wired with no switch only operated by remote control.it stopped working so I replaced the remote control,which worked for about a year.i opened the remote and could find no problems...checked/replaced battery,still no go.could the problem be in the fan itself?the unit is approx. 12 years old.the light on the remote works but is dim....


texts: How to tighten big wires into circuit breaker holes?

texts: I am installing this. After tightening the screw hardly, the big wire still falls out if I pull it a little bit with very small force. I am not sure that I am doing like others would do. Do you have any idea to tighten the wire into that hole? The wire is 105C - 600V, the circuit breaker is 63A


texts: No hot water in kitchen but everywhere else is fine

texts:
Discovered issue today after being out of town for 2 days.

When running water from a single handle sink - just cold water when turned to hot setting.

Checked valves below sink.

Cold valve turned off = no water at all.

Hot valves turned off = no normal water temp and pressure.

This is a newer home (10 years)  all PVC piping in the kitchen.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?

Thank you!


texts:
My electric oven keeps cutting out (completely shutting down, all lights, fan and heating element turn off). After a few minutes it starts up again. This happens repeatedly.
The oven has a mechanical analogue timer. Fiddling with the timer in a specific way causes the oven to start up again, but a minute later it shuts down, continuing the cycle.
I have now opened up the oven and removed the whole timer, but the problem persists!! At this stage we are about ready to just get rid of the oven and get a new one, but I wanted to know if it’s possible that this would a be a problem with the wiring in the property rather than the oven itself?
The oven is a Baumatic BOR610BL electric integrated oven.


texts: Do they make wireless safety sensors for garage door openers?

texts: I've had a lot of issues with the safety sensors for my garage door opener, most of which had to do with loose or broken wires leading from the opener to the sensors. It's been extremely frustrating when out of the blue the garage door won't close because even though the sensors are aligned, the wire got bumped and now doesn't have strong enough of a connection. So I've been searching for wireless sensors but wasn't really seeing anything come up. Do wireless sensors even exist? Or would that violate whatever code exists about safety sensors?


texts: Can rigid foam board have an air space between it and rim joist?

texts:
I am insulating my rim joists with 2" rigid foam board.  Most of the rim joist is bare, and the foam fits along it nicely.  Some sill boxes have some small irregularities (vent pipes, plumbing, etc) that I have worked around easily enough.

However, there are many electrical cables running along the rim joist near the circuit breaker box.  For a good 10 feet in either direction, there are enough cables that it doesn't seem practical to get the foam board flush against the rim joist.  Yes, I could carefully and laboriously cut little channels for each cable in the back of the foam, but that would take a long time.

Is it okay to simply push the foam against the cables and call it good enough?  This will leave some air pockets trapped between the foam and the rim joist because the foam will be off of the joist a 1/2" or so (the width of the cables).  Will this cause moisture or other problems?  Seems it shouldn't as long as I do a good job sealing around the foam board.

(p.s. I know that spray foam would be the ideal solution, but we are trying to avoid that, mostly for cost reasons)


texts: Ceiling fan install - orientation of mounting bracket to slope of ceiling

texts:
I'm replacing a  light fixture with a fan/light using a down rod mount on an angled ceiling. The frame studs run parallel with the slope of the ceiling. Manufacturer notes to install mounting bracket socket so that the open end (the open side where the ball slides in) of the bracket faces towards the high end of the ceiling.  Because the ceiling studs are only 2" wide this isn't possible,ceiling fixture
So in my image, to the right is upwards on the slope of the ceiling.
The best I can do here is have the open side 45 degrees to the left or right of the slope.
Is that sufficient or is there a better way to do this? Can I screw an adaptor into the stud and then attach the bracket to the adaptor?
I really would like to use the existing hole in my ceiling and not cut a new hole and use a race box


texts: House build in late 1960s- Western gypsum drywall-asbestos

texts: Wondering if Western Gypsum dryall products contained asbestos. Am planning to take for testing, just looking for a quick answer or link to a list of Canadian products that contained asbestos.


texts: How should I apply spray foam around a ceiling mounted bathroom exhaust vent?

texts:
I have a ceiling mounted exhaust fan that has a substantial (2-4" air gap along the sides after it was installed such that when it is running a lot of the air just gets pushed back around the sides of the fan.

I'm thinking of applying some spray in foam around the fan to get a better seal around the fan to prevent this. That foam is some nasty stuff and I don't want it just dripping back down on me as I apply it overhead into the gap.

Is there a method for spraying foam into an open space overhead safely to avoid a big mess underneath?


texts: New home has 240v Nema 14-30R for Electric Dryer I have A gas dryer Needing Nema 5-15R

texts:
I just purchased a 2 year old home in the laundry room on the wall for the washer & Dryer there is 1 -  120v Jack and 1 Nema 14-30R Jack.

My washer only needs 5a 120v Nema 5-15R.

Do I need to run a separate breaker and a stand alone outlet?  (GFI or arc Fault?)

Thank you "


texts: How can I remove or level grooves in thinset mortar from a concrete slab?

texts:
I'm redoing my bonus room, it's close to 300 sq ft and the floor is all concrete.  Most of the room had carpet which came off easy but about 130 sq ft had ceramic tile that left a lot of thinset grooves everywhere.

If I want to have a finished concrete floor what is the best way to go about leveling the area where the tile was?  SLC or some other product?  The 130 sq ft needs to be level with itself and not with the rest of the room.  It works with the design somehow.

Also, can I just seal the whole room after the leveling is complete?


texts: Forced air system blowing cold air through bedroom vents, hot through the rest

texts:
I'm in a rental house for the next few months which hasn't been particularly well maintained. It does have a newish looking Goodman gas furnace, yet the gas bills seem outrageous to me ($250 per month when I'm used to $60 in my own house). It's an old house, so that could be chalked up to lack of insulation.

However, the ducts in the bedrooms actively blow only cold air (somewhat below room temperature). The duct in the bathroom on the same level of the house (there are only three rooms up there) blows extremely warm air, as one would expect.

I went down to the basement and checked, and the two ducts labeled "bedroom" are definitely warm — as they should be. So whatever is happening is happening somewhere between the basement and the second floor (first floor, perhaps?).

It snowed quite a bit this last week, and one thing we noticed is that one side of the house has extremely large icicles forming — larger than any other house in the neighborhood. This suggests to me that we are heating the outside of the house instead of the inside.

The only thing I can think of is that the ducting is totally disconnected inside the wall or between the first level ceiling and second level floor. But I can't see how it would both (1) pressurize that area enough to blow cold air and simultaneously (2) never heat it up enough to blow hot air.

To be totally clear, this is not a cold draft from the vent I'm talking about. We do get that as well, when the heater is turned off. But when the furnace is on, the thing actively blows cold air through the bedroom registers.

Anyone see this before? Any thoughts? If not, can we together concoct some risk threatening enough that my landlord would actually hire a contractor to fix this? He doesn't seem like the eager-to-fix-things type, nor is he the type to let me do it myself — but if he won't, I damn well will.

Update: The previous occupant informs me that the vents blowing cold air are the returns. I can't imagine why they'd be blowing instead of pulling, though.


texts: How do I install an outdoor receptacle box on vinyl siding?

texts: Any tips for adding an outdoor receptacle box onto a house with vinyl siding? Shouldn't the box be attached to a stud? How do I seal around it? J Channel? How can I accomplish this without tearing off large chunks of siding? I can handle the electrical.


texts:
I was checking outlets to insure that they were wired correctly, and in doing I discover this one. The outlet tester said it wasn't grounded. There is one black wire coming from what appears to be a light switch, wrapping around a brass screw and going off to another light switch(I think). The other black wire goes elsewhere. Is this appropriate?

THank you,
Kathleen


texts: How to install drawer slides when the drawer cutout trim is not flush with the cabinet's interior side panels

texts:
I want to replace the original drawer slides which were installed back in the 1970s.  As you can see from the picture, the interior side panels of the cabinet are not flush with the cherry trim on the face of the cabinet. The panels are recessed by about 3/4". The slides are currently mounted to the edge of the cherry face and, in the back of the cabinet, to the face of the rear panel.
Is there a type of drawer slide that comes with a metal bracket that gets mounted to the interior panel, compensating for the panel recess, and the slider in turn gets mounted to that bracket? Or do I need to install a piece of 3/4" plywood to the interior panel to bring the panel flush with the cherry edge?


texts: Should I tape joints during or after an initial fill with setting-type compound?

texts:
I am spreading 90min quick set, followed by green lid to finish off. I am using the quick set because I have to add multiple layers to help build up uneven seams.
My question is:

At what point should I add tape in these instances? I was thinking once I'm done layering and ready to add finishing coats, that is when I will add my tape? Or is it pointless given how many layers I'm adding of quickset to build up the uneven seam, or is it too late?

Pictures:

wall 1 in it's almost finished state of layering with quick set, if you look closely, you can still see a bit of a hump that I'm going to work out with another coat or 2 before green lid finishing

wall 2 showing beginning stages of layering and uneven seams I am working with

(sorry if the images are rotated --- I had corrected them on my end but they don't seem to carry over sometimes)
Yes, I could have taken the sheetrock down, reworked the studs to match the existing, or shimmed, but I'm beyond that now.


texts: Placing a good surge protector on our Fleck 4650 Control Valve (used as well water softener)

texts:
The stepper motor / timers on our Fleck 4650 Control Valve for our well water softener dies when lightening strikes happen.  I can't find the amperage rating for this device when it's in operation so I can spec the correct surge protector to purchase.  Does anyone know what type of surge protector I should place on this or if I even should / can?

Manual

PS: I based in Florida, USA


texts: Diagnostic tools for oven and microwave?

texts:
I was wondering what sort of diagnostic tool is used to detect a problem in a microwave (range) and in an oven. And would such a tool have a readout record?

I had a repairman come to fix:

My microwave (built-in range) that doesn't always heat to the same level.
My oven that sometimes pre-heats, sometimes doesn't. Sometimes it starts at 100 and displays incrementally what temperature it is, sometimes it starts at 105-350 (depending on what I set it to) or, if I set it to above 350 it stays at 350 and doesn't tell me when I'm at 400.

While it would be great if someone automatically knew the answer, what I would really like to know is what tool is used to diagnose this. That way I can argue that the tool wasn't used.

Thanks!


texts:
In our guest bath the horizontal light bar has a switch on two different walls. Since we bought the house, one switch has never worked properly, and the hubby thought slapping duct tape over the switch was “fixing it”

I thought I could just remove the switch, cap the wires & put on a solid plate & just use the other switch. BUT once I cut the switch out & capped the wires, I turned the breaker back on to discover that the              other switch doesn’t work now either!!! Is there an easy fix for this???

A video or set of step by step instructions that will either help me connect the one switch that did work back up OR even a way to make sure that both switches work. The problem with the switch I removed was that it never stayed on. It would be in the ON position but the light would either flicker or completely go off AND when this happened unless it was turned to the off position the other switch wouldn’t work either. This is one of my first attempts at electrical DIY ... is this a situation where it’s advisable to just call an electrician??


texts:
I have two upstairs toilets (back to back in separate bathrooms) that have been backing up every two weeks for a few months now.  The plumbers and rooters can't seem to figure out what the problem is.

Initially, the thought was that using flushable wipes was the problem.  The rooter cleared the clog, tv'd the line, and found nothing (no root problem, no debris hanging on somewhere in the line - nothing).  Problem solved, right?

Well, two weeks later, the toilets clogged again.  No continued use of the wipes.  Again, drain cleared, tv'd, and nothing found evidencing the basis for the clog.

Wouldn't you know it - two weeks later, the toilets clog, AGAIN.  This time a new rooter comes out, clears the clog, and can't figure out what the problem was.

The main floor toilet only clogged during one of these episodes.  Today, the two upstairs toilets clogged again.

For background, one of the back to back toilets was off its base for a few weeks due to a remodel.  A new toilet has since been installed there, and it is still backing up.

The last couple of clogs, the toilet seems to be working fine, then suddenly, after one flush, it's plugged.  There doesn't seems to be any warning.

Any ideas on why the toilets would continually clog, despite being cleared out every two weeks?  Much thanks!!


texts:
Some (but not all) of the electrical outlets in my kitchen look like this:

(I don't know what this kind of outlet is called.)

One of those outlets is where I plug in my toaster oven. In the last 6 months, I've had two toaster ovens die (become unusable at any outlet) while plugged in there. The first time, the toaster oven was old, but the second time it was a new one of a reputable brand. Also, the LED at that outlet is now off, pushing the buttons does nothing, and the outlet provides no power.

I have only a vague idea that these outlets have circuit breakers for safety. It seems like the one with the LED out needs repair. But I'm concerned about the significance of the toaster dying. Should I be worried about my wiring? Might I have a safety issue here?


texts: Does UV exposure cause deterioration to PVC pipe which can lead to catastrophic failure?

texts:
I've heard over the years that PVC should never be exposed to ultraviolet radiation, or the pipe will crumble and disintegrate. Though upon researching the subject, it seems as though UV radiation only reduces the impact strength of the pipe.  Is UV degradation is a real problem, or a half truth propagated by the internet.

According to an article by United States Plastic Corp. (Is PVC and CPVC pipe UV resistant?), and a technical bulletin released by JM Eagle. Only the pipe's impact resistance is reduced, while both tensile strength and modulus showed no reduction.

While I know that painting, or wrapping the pipe can eliminate any damage. I wonder if it's even worth the effort to do so, in most situations? Since the pipe maintains it's pressure capacity and stiffness, is protection required if the pipe is in an area where it's not subject to physical damage? Can UV radiation alone, cause a catastrophic failure of the pipe?


texts: Proper way to attach tapered, threaded connections?

texts:
I've been ripping out the PB water line throughout my house and replacing with PEX and a bit of copper piping. However, the few threaded fittings each have very slow leaks.

Above the water tank I used 3/4 copper adapters. Above the water meter I used a 3/4 brass PEX adapter. Each were wrapped with two layers of white teflon tape clockwise. Then tightened as tight as possible with a crescent wrench (maybe 2 turns after hand tight). The washing machine adapters were wrench tightened at least 1 turn but stopped when they were properly aligned.

Looking around the web, I see many different opinions about why these type of connections get slow leaks.

Too much or too little tape (I've seen 2 to 20 wraps suggested)
Use joint compound instead of tape or use a compound with tape
Tighten so that only 1-2 threads are visible or tighten 1-2 turns after finger tight

So are there any standards for joining these connections?

Is it possible to over-tighten the fittings? (I'm worried about deforming the copper or cracking the brass)

The tape and compound seem to be for lubrication and not so much sealing, but many posts online suggest otherwise. This seems to affect the question of how much tape to use. Who's right?

Thanks!


texts: What else should I check to troubleshoot an outdoor post light?

texts: Bulb quit working in outdoor light post, changed bulb. Still did not work.  Changed the light post eye control, nothing. Re checked all wiring.  Circuit breaker also controls porch lights, works.  What else should be checked?


texts: How do I manually program the TWM4 (IMX10)

texts:
My X10 system is on its last legs.  I don't have any functional programmers.  I can not find the programming sheet for the TWM4 (or IMX10).  There is a way of programming it using a mains switch.  I have done it before.  Does any one have the information for toggles on the mains line to program it ?

Codes for House Number
Codes for Unit Number
Codes for functions
Codes for options


texts: How much power can a house with 3 x 25amps electricity supply?

texts:
Please excuse the poorly phrased header - I am (hopefully not for long thanks to you) electrically dumb.

I'm looking at moving to a house in the countryside to live a more DIY lifestyle. Unfortunately, I don't speak the language of the landlord, and I'm going on information my Wife has shared with me.

She told me that the owner said the property has '3 x 25amp' power supply. The house is connected to the electrical grid. So, what does this mean - 3 x 25amp? What sort of power can I expect from this? Will it run a decent size fridge, plus computers, plus lights and kitchen appliances all at the same time? Or will I need to be balancing the load a bit carefully?

Is there more questions I need to ask the owner in order to make any intelligent decision on this matter? Like how many watts that is?

Note: this is in Europe, where the power is usually 220/240v.


texts: Replaced Outlet and Switch, Now Light Won't Turn Off

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I had a switched duplex receptacle controlled by two 3-way switches.  An electrician installed a ceiling light using 14/3 wire running from the outlet.  Everything was working - the 3-way switches controlled the light and the outlet was fully powered.

Today I replaced one of the switches and the outlet (wife wanted different color after painting the room).  I'm 99% positive the ceiling light was working properly after replacing the switch, but after replacing the outlet it's on all the time.

I uninstalled the outlet and both switches.  Each has a single 14/3 wire running to the box.  The black wire is hot (live) in all cases.  I suspect the boxes might be tied to a junction box in the basement, because otherwise I can't figure out any sort of wiring diagram that makes sense.
I re-installed the unchanged switch as I found it.  Black wire to the common terminal, red and white wires to the other terminals.  I have no reason to believe that switch is wrong.
When I re-installed the changed switch, I discovered that all three wires appear to be hot.  Black and ground light up my tester.  Same for red/ground and white/ground(!).  I believe the new switch is wired the same as the previous switch, but something seems wrong.
When I re-installed the outlet, the red and black wires are hot.  The electrician had the incoming red wire tied to the red wire on the 14/3 wire he installed, so I believe it is involved in controlling the light.  With it always hot, I think that's why the light is always on.  Just not sure how to fix that.

I'm really not sure what I did wrong (no problems with the other switch and 9 outlets I replaced today).  I also can't figure out or find a wiring diagram that would make sense.  If I knew where power was coming from and the order it was going to the boxes, this would be easy to fix.

Edit:  Sorry, I don't have photos and everything is put back together for now.  It's just a 14/3 wire to both switches and two (one added by the electrician for the light) to the outlet.  I'd even be happy if I could figure out how the switches used to control the outlet, that was just be a 14/3 running to each box with the black wire to each box always hot.

Edit 2:  I can't find the junction box feeding the boxes, but I found the blueprints for the house.

Power is coming in from 21, but I don't understand where and what box that is since it's reference in a couple of places.  Hopefully I can ignore it for now.  Based on the blueprints, I believe 10 and 14 are the outlets.  The black wire would have fed the always-on part of the outlet and the red wire would have fed the switched part of the outlet, until that was changed with the ceiling light.  Then 15 and 11 are the switches.  The untouched switch looks like this:

The other wires you see in the picture are all tied to the other, unrelated switch.


texts: Availability of using 2 pole circuit breaker instead of 4 pole circuit breaker

texts: I have a lot of 2 pole circuit breakers, can i use 2 of them instead of one 4 pole circuit breaker (3 phase AC)? And what will happen if one phase has a problem, will the 2 circuit breaker trip or only one?


texts:
Building some slide out panels inside kitchen cabinets, with only a drill at my disposal.

Bottom: I've selected drawer runners that mount to the bottom of the drawer, I'm thinking I use a slab of 15mm (19/32") plywood as the bottom.

Fence: Probably also use 15mm to build a 75mm (3") high fence around the perimeter to prevent stuff from sliding off.

Handle: Undecided on putting on a simple handle, but if I did I'd probably attach it to the bottom slab rather than the fence. Probably won't though.

So here is my question:
What options do I have in terms of joinery, given I have only a drill at my disposal. I don't have a pocket hole jig, I can't make dados easily, or create dovetails etc. I am thinking using a doweled butt joint is the only real option I have ... combined with glue throughout. This both to connect the fence pieces to one another, as well as to the base plate.

Would welcome any comments.

Adding information re. norcal johnny's comment

Trying to achieve something like this. This is most certainly a functional design, not so much a need to make it look pretty.

These are not the exact drawer runners I'm using, but indicate how the bottom slab would be mounted.

I can't show a photo of the current situation, as I'm not at the location where I'll be building this. Just preparing myself prior to the journey there. But, it's a situation very typical to the below. Drawer runners will already purchased.


texts: Bring portable generator in through automatic transfer switch

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I currently have a portable generator, an inlet, and an interlock on the main panel to backfeed the panel.

I am moving over to an automatic transfer switch with a standby generator. However, as a backup, I am keeping my portable generator and inlet.

I would like to eliminate the interlock and bring the wires from the inlet in through the automatic transfer switch in the same way that the standby generator connects to it, and select which generator I want to use by way of a DPDT safety switch -- I already own this one.

However, the only circuit breaker that would be sized to protect the wires between the inlet and main panel (through the ATS and safety switch) would be the circuit breaker inside the generator.

Is that allowable by code? Or do I need to put in a hard-wired single-circuit breaker panel before the safety switch to protect the wires?


texts:
The dishwasher's junction box needs a ground, and I currently only have white and black.

Can the flexible conduit be used as a ground?  If I can securely rejoin the flex to the solid conduit (using the clamp seen in the photo), I would still need a wire at the other end, from the flex to the screw.  Maybe I just wrap a solid wire around the outside, sort of like this?

Or, could I run a new ground wire from the solid conduit, and into the flex?  Not sure how that would work...

The junction box is the same as the one in this question.  It's plastic, and has 3 screw-down connectors.


texts: Dishwasher across from the sink? Way to make the pump stronger?

texts:
Long story short, I renovated my kitchen and have two counters.
I have a counter where the oven and kitchen sink reside. Across from the counter (about 5 ft), I have a dishwasher across. I have a drainage tube (rubber hose) that runs from the dishwasher to the sink (about ~8-9ft long). Whenever I try to drain, the water just stays there and does not drain.

I took out the drainage hose and was able to drain the water in the dish washer in a bucket (through the dishwasher's drain cycle).
When I bought the dishwasher, I was assured that the pump was strong enough to pump the water and the drainage pump will continue to pump as long as there is water in the dishwasher.
I think the dishwasher is not draining due to the distance that the water has to travel to drain (I checked for clogs, there are none).
I am guessing I messed up big time and may need to custom fit my dishwasher with a much stronger pump? I'd greatly appreciate any advice or words of wisdom.


texts: What is this bug poop or dirt that keeps reappearing every few months by a wood beam?

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I vacuum this up every few months and it keeps reappearing.
What type of bug is living in this wood and should I be worried?

This dirt seems like the bug's poop or something


texts: What size junction box is needed for four 6 AWG copper wires?

texts: Can somebody tell me what size and type of J box do I need for 4 #6 AWG copper wire? Boxes will be located outside. Both will be just and access point since I have more that 360 degree bends. Wire will be continuous.


texts: house well pumps and softener system inside or outside workshop

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I'm in the initial phase of laying out my 14x32 workshop and I need advice on whether to put the water treatment system and well pump outside or inside the workshop space. Here's what i currently have framed up for the concrete slab:

I want the electrical panel on the wall between where these well heads are. Here's a 2d model of what I'm building showing the panel between the well heads.

I forsee down the road issues with having the electrical panel behind the water softening equipment. If I want to add a new circuit which I most likely will, probably several iterations of changes. I will need to work around the softener equipment since it will be below and around the electrical panel.
So I'm leaning towards extending the concrete form another 3 feet out from the well heads and installing the softener system (which includes a 15 gallon liquid h2o2 peroxide tank) to outside the rear of the workshop wall on this 3' extension and frame in and roof an enclosure on the exterior. This will give me working room on the inside of the workshop plus free up that area to allow for future unhindered access to the electrical panel.
Here's a bulleted list of reasons for and against having the softener system and pumps inside vs outside this new workshop building.
For adding the 3'

I had planned for a floor drain and a 1" drop in the concrete slab in this section to allow for if there ever was a major leak water would go out the drain instead of out into the workshop. Not having the pumps and softener system within the framing of the main workshop would allow any leaks to be outside.
Extra workshop floor space.
No potential issues with spilling salt or peroxide onto the main workshop floor
Easy access for salt & peroxide delivery person, I plan to keep the workshop main floor locked.
Free up the area under and around the panel load center to allow for future upgrades without having to work around the bulky softener system equipment.
Not having to install the floor drain.
A little extra storage space gained within this 3' enclosed area.

Against adding the 3'

Having the softener system and pumps enclosed and out of the way makes it out of sight out of mind so to speak.
extra cost of concrete for this 3' and the extra cost for framing and roofing this enclosed area
Adding this extra 3' may potentially cover over the telco coax and the electrical feed to my house from the pole.
Brings the space between my neighbor's property line and this slab to about 3.5 feet.

Is there anything I'm missing here that is not obvious? I'm looking for additional comments, a second set of eyes per se. To look over my thinking here and add any details I may be missing that would prevent me from adding this 3' extra to the concrete slab.


texts: Exhaust fan and corresponding power switch in each of two bathrooms, with both fans being turned on simultaneously by actuating either switch

texts: Each of two bathrooms in the Condo we just purchased, has a ceiling exhaust fan and corresponding control switch.  For some reason, changing the state of the fan in either bathroom, by changing its corresponding switch, simultaneously changes the fan in the other room to the same state. In other words, both fans are actuated on together (and off together) when ever either of the switches is actuated.


texts: Regular outlet vs bootleg ground vs ungrounded GFCI vs grounded GFCI

texts: I have seen some explanations for each of these as to how each of them separately are different from the other. To understand them all better, I wanted a cohesive, specific answer on how and why they differ in safety for humans, as well as protection for equipment from power tools to computers, how surge protectors will work with them etc.


texts: Can someone please identify the purpose of this covered plastic pipe in my front yard.  I can provide further details as necessary.  I thought it was a drain clean-out, but the plumber disagreed.  In the back yard, there is a clean-out for the combined sewer/storm line.  Photos attached with cap on/off.


texts: I was needing to replace female end on extension cord. The existing female end is made to accept 3 plugs on that end. Do replacement ends like that exist or will it have to be converted to just a single plug on the female end.


texts: Why does my laptop charger make a spark when plugged in?

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From time to time (not always but often enough) when I plug my laptop's charger in the wall outlet it makes a spark (even if I use different outlets it's the same).

Why does it do this? Is this a normal behavior? Is it not? Can this damage the charger, laptop or electrical installation? Is it safe?

I'm in Europe. Electrical outlet gives 220V/50Hz (from a pretty old aluminum electrical installation) while the charger is a 65W AC Adapter with 100-240V, 50-60Hz, 1.5A input and a 19.5V, 3.34A output.


texts:
Was attempting to install an in wall power kit to hide the wires from my mounted TV and seem to have hit something behind the drywall. Not sure if it's some sort of rigid insulation, but I'm hesitant to keep drilling through it without knowing what it is. It is a tiny bit spongey -- but harder to drill through than the drywall.
Any ideas? Is it safe to continue drilling through in order to finish installing the in wall power kit? The tiles to the left of the hole I drilled is the surround around my gas fireplace.
Thank you.


texts: What are these wires I found in my yard?

texts:
I was digging the holes for some crepe myrtle saplings and I sliced into a wire with one unlucky shovel stroke. They do not seem to be carrying any voltage, but I haven't hooked my multi-meter up to it yet. I've called 811 several times in the past, and nothing has ever been marked out anywhere near this side of the yard. The wires themselves are 2 red, 1 white, solid copper core, maybe 20 gauge (slightly heavier than say speaker wire). They are buried ~4 inches below the surface with no conduit or protection. They are a few inches away from the sprinkler PVC pipe, running roughly parallel to it and the driveway, towards the street away from the front corner of the garage where the sprinkler control system is.

The sprinkler control box still has power and it can still turn on the sprinklers. I did a short test run of the zone that the wires are running through, and they had normal pressure (after pushing out all the air that accumulated over the winter).

I switched to a hand-spade and started tracing the wire route through the garden. The wire seems to be getting deeper as it approaches the house, but I lost it in the twilight under a tree root.

Does anyone have a premonition about what these wires could be? If I do test the wire and find it dead, is there any danger in yanking the severed wire out of the ground to trace it? Is it worth calling 811 again and waiting to see if any of the utilities own up to it?

Additional Information (in response to comments):

The sprinkler system came with the house, so it's builder grade. I'm tempted to believe the theory that they are trace wires for the sprinkler PVC, except that I've gleefully hacked through the PVC on the other side of the yard with no sign of wires. I have not yet disassembled the box wiring to see if a white and two red wires connect to it, although the sprinkler panel and manual don't mention any fancy features like rain sensors.

We have no exterior electrics. No lights or fountains or anything. The only outdoor outlets we have are built into the base of the house. The nearest one to these wires is on the other side of the driveway.

I agree that it is unlikely it's any part of a utility. The location is haphazard and I'm pretty sure there's a building code for underground current carrying wires to have conduit. I can see the builders skimping on that, but not a utility.


texts: How can I filter iron out of kiddie pool water?

texts:
Our well water is high in iron. In the house, we put salt with an iron remover into our water softener. The outside bibs don't run through the water softener, however. The other day we filled up the kiddie pool for the first time and after a while the water turned orange.

Is there any way to either filter the iron out or to prevent the water from turning orange?


texts: What should I consider when selecting an air compressor for the garage?

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I was thinking to buy an air compressor and place it in my garage. I hate to look for change when i am at the gas station and i usually end up spending more than usual as some idiot has parked his car right in front of the air pump. I have no idea if this is actually doable or not. What kind of brand or qualities i should look for.

Can someone please throw some light on this? What kind of air compressor should i look for?

Also it will be great if the compressor runs on Electric.


texts: I bought my house 3 years ago and it was completely remodeled before I bought it. It has new Murray MP-AT2 15AMP breakers. Recently two of the breakers keep tripping off at very low amperage. I just tested one and it tripped at 4.3 AMPS. Any reason why it would do this? Should I just buy new breakers and hope it fixes the issue?


texts:
I have a problem with some raw water (it usually has sediment and gunk) that I need to pump from below ground level. I came up with something that looks like the image attached to get cleaner water out, but the pump is only sucking the water out of the filter (I filled the pipes with waters first), and not pumping any of the water that is underground. I know that the pipes would have looked cleaner if I had rotated the pump, but I had to workaround some constraints.

I am using a DAB KDF 30/16 pump (1/2hp), the filter is 10", the piping is 1", and there are a total of 7 90' elbows and 1 tee at the intake (there are some extra turns that I couldn't draw in 2D). I'm also using a strainer with a check valve submerged underwater.

I'm pretty sure my pump is working ok, but there most be something impeding it from pulling water. Any ideas what could be causing this?


texts: What would be the most economical way to run wire for a driveway light?

texts: I want to run electrical power through my woods to end of driveway. There will be no driving or walking over this area of 300', but I do have squirrels, deer and other "critters" that might chew. What do I need to use, that would be the most economical? The wire will be hooked up to a GFI in my garage.


texts: How to fasten boards flush to the face of square posts

texts:
I might take 3 square wooden posts, about 1.5 meters high, and I need to link them to one or more boards on the bottom, if you propose screws, keep in mind that it has to sit level so they have to be flush. There also needs to be a board on top but that's not nearly as critical as that's not where the lateral force applies I think.

It might have to hold like 6 kg at that height and not break if there is some lateral pressure due to a fat cat propelling off the top of the stand, assuming the base is large and heavy enough not to move in this situation.

At best what I have at my disposal are a drill with drills bits of various sizes and an electric wood saw, and I don't have a way to keep a complex structure still while drilling into it.

Dowels look nice and easy because everything can be drilled separately on a table and then assembled but maybe they are too weak.
Self tapping screws are another option, but I'm not sure I can do the countersinking properly and put washers in the hole to prevent it from breaking the board and coming up through it laterally if it's thin and there is a lateral force applied on the post. I'm not using fibreboards but it might be as weak as pine.

Also I don't see how it's possible to keep everything still while screwing in the screw with a drill, the post might rotate around and then it can't be put straight anymore. Still, options can be suggested if you think they're much better.

Glue sounds weak but I have no idea really.

Mortise and tenon and other such stuff - I don't have the tools nor the expertise for that.

Visible metal L-brackets are too ugly.

So the main issue is how deep wood dowels or screws would have to go through the post to be safe, but if you have alternatives do tell me.


texts: How can I tell if there's an electrical issue or if I have a bad dryer?

texts:
I purchased a dryer from Sears: recently, which didn't work upon being connected. I performed a couple electrical checks (more on that in a moment), then called them up and told them that it was dead on arrival. They delivered another one, which also didn't work. I'm trying to figure out if the problem is electrical or just dead dryers.

Our box is a 3 wire, 30 amp 220/240VAC.

What I have tested with my multimeter (both at the outlet and at the dryer):

Line1 to Line2: ~240V
Line1 to Neutral: ~120V
Line2 to Neutral: ~120V
Neutral to Ground: 0V


texts: How to fix hole in yard with/from burst irrigation pipe?

texts:
I had the end cap crack on a 2" irrigation line buried 1-2' underground. It sprayed downwards, clearing away 2' of dirt vertically (3-4' total downward now). I found an area about 3-4' away from this site that also had water rushing up from it, so there is at least a 3-4' deep horizontal hole as well, all within feet of my patio and pool pump cement block.

How do I fix this?

I live in Tampa, FL. Ground is kinda of a dry clay/sand kind of dirt.

Right now, my idea is to carefully dig up where I think the hole is so that there's no cavity down there. Flush the broken line. Re-PVC-glue it was a new end cap. Refill hole it with some clay/compact dirt filler.

Schematic:

                  1'wide hole            2" hole
---------------------      --------------  ---------
                    |      |             | |
          1-2'  ======]    |             | |
                   /  X     \     3'     | |
                  /          ------------| |
                 |                         |    X is side of crack
             4'  --------------------------|
                           estimated cavity


texts: Wiring additional light to a 3-way switch (switch > light / switch > light)

texts:
I have an existing 3 way light switch in the basement with a 3 way switch at the bottom and the top of the stairs with 3 cans in the basement hallway. We would like to add some lights to the stairwell and I'm not sure the best place to try and run the wire from.

First switch connects to power, switch then runs to the bottom of the stairs where it connects to another switch. From there the switch is connected to 3 chained can lights.

My question is, can a light be added off of the first switch that also chains to the second switch?


texts: Short circuited an AC outlet. After resetting breaker, outlets wires have no current

texts:
I was replacing an AC outlet with a new one (the fancy type with USBs). When first testing after installation with breaker on USBs we’re getting power, then I tried plugging in a regular AC plug and got a quick spark and short  that tripped the breaker.

I investigated what happened and the live wire came into contact with the outlet box, noted by a blackened mark on the inside of the box.

I then covered the wires with electrical tape. Tried again and no current. I thought I had fried the outlet itself, so used a new one and still nothing.

Finally I used a multimeter to confirm the wires are dead even when breaker is on.

All other outlets on this breaker are fine, just this single outlet.

Any ideas?


texts: I am replacing the  wiring of an old house( partially burned),some of the 220v appliances such the stove and the clothes dryer have only 3 wires( black, red and white), I think (not sure) the house is grounded through the water copper pipes( the white wire-the neutral- is connected to the ground bar in the panel) . My first question is : do I need to run a dedicated ground wire for each appliance or I can leave the old wire connected as they are(  keeping the  neutral  connected to the ground)?My second question is: do I need to install a grounding rod to supplement the existing grounding which I assume is connected to the water pipes ? Thank you


texts: Code requirements on drain cleanout plug

texts: My 3" vertical drain pipe, which penetrates the basement concrete floor slab, has a cleanout plug around knee-height above the floor. I'm looking to install a drainwater heat recovery pipe, and with these devices the longer the better. I can fit a much larger heat recovery pipe if I move the drain cleanout closer to the floor. Are there any code requirements or important considerations that would typically require the cleanout to be raised high off the floor, or can I have the cleanout wherever I like in that vertical section of pipe?


texts: My swamp cooler has both of its front "legs" inside the pictured boxes, partially filled with tar.  The tar is nowhere near the top, and water seems to just sit in the boxes after any rainfall.  Is this OK?  If not, what should I do to improve the setup?


texts: Why would a single receptacle fail after updating other wiring?

texts:
I'm currently doing some renovation in my bathroom, and while the walls are open, running updated cable where I have access. This also includes the addition of a GFCI outlet. It's a 1940s home, and the bathroom and its wiring are original. I've lived here for 17 years, and just purchased it in December. Now that I own it, I am starting to correct all of the issues I know of.

With the intention of having a dedicated circuit for the new outlet, I went all the way back to the breaker panel with 12/2+G Romex. Currently, this circuit has many branches throughout the house, and the intention is to ultimately isolate the bathroom when I free up panel space. The breaker panel is full, so a simple "new circuit" is not immediately possible. The new 12/2 was installed at the first "half" of the circuit so far - forming the "trunk" so to speak - and all but 2 of the branches remain unchanged.

But the issue at hand is that one of the outlets on the circuit failed the day after I ran the new cable. EDIT: The dryer and heater would not work, and there were no audible or visible signs of a problem, nor a burning smell. Due to the fact that the current wiring is an absolute mess, I have drawn a schematic with more specifics to illustrate the current configuration rather than trying to fully explain. I am aware of all of the code (and plain stupidity) related issues that are present, and intend to correct them and reallocate circuits incrementally once I finish the bathroom renovation, and then map out the rest of the wiring.

At the end of one of the branches in the basement, is a receptacle that has my clothes dryer plugged in. I work from home, and my office (with its own circuit) is also in the basement. The basement is unfinished, so we have areas separated by shelving or furniture. 2-3 months ago, I added a space heater (set low), just to take the edge off on colder days, figuring while the dryer is not running, the heater set low would be fine there. Note #1: I have another space heater on my office circuit. Note #2: I was not aware that the laundry area was not on its own circuit until I started this. Regardless of these facts, this setup has been working without issues since I started using it. So, the question is that how, after 2+ months, did the old receptacle fail, and when replaced with a brand new one, fail again?

Also... The breaker did not trip. All other outlets are working fine, and the new bad receptacle is reading ~36v to neutral, and ~40v to ground. I get ~126v at every other known branch on the circuit. My only assumption is that the lower resistance of the 12/2 changed the dynamics of the whole circuit somehow?


texts: Replacing a full height crawl space with basement

texts:
I am thinking about purchasing a home that is set on top of a crawl space (see image). The crawl space has the full height of a basement, windows and a door leading outside in the back. It has French Drains along the downhill base of the house and plastic lining covering a rock floor. I did see some water on top of the plastic in a few places. The foundation walls are footing and stem walls (I think). They appear nice but have some vertical cracks in several places upon closer inspection. The house was built in 2002.

Is the water concerning given the French drains installed.
Are the wall cracks normal for the crawl space foundation... should they concern me?
Given the windows, and doors and height of the space it would be nice to lay a concrete floor and make it a basement. How feasible is that? Is there a ballpark number that I should expect to pay for turning it into a full basement?
I saw some snake skins under the plastic barrier... should that concern me?
The walls are insulated but the crawl space ceiling is not... is that normal?


texts: outlet intended for half hot does not have tab removed

texts:
We just bought a house and saw a room that used to have half hot wired for all the outlets. It was converted over so both plugs of the outlet are hot all the time. However, the way it was wired, there are two hot wires going into each of the outlets. This is fine because the tabs are removed between the outlets. However, there is one outlet where the tab is not removed (pictured) -- probably a recently replaced outlet where they forgot to remove the tab. Neutral tab also not broken. Neutrals continue on to other outlets.

I removed the tab but I still have two questions:

Is this dangerous?
Does this mean there is 220 volts to this outlet if the tab is not removed?

EDIT UPDATED IMAGE:


texts: How to determine the type of finish used on a piece of furniture?

texts:
I have a table that I want to add another clear-coat layer to (to smooth and level without sanding). It's already stained and sealed, so I want to choose a clear-coat (polyurethane, lacquer, epoxy) that will bind with what was used on it before, but I don't know what was used before.

What's the best way to determine what kind of finish is on this table, so that additional coats will stick properly?


texts: Can a hot tub be installed in a utility room?

texts:
We just bought a house with a large, unfinished utility room in the basement, about 15 ft x 20 ft. The previous owner just used it for storage. It has washer/dryer hookups and contains the furnace and water heater; otherwise, it's mostly empty, with concrete floors.

We were thinking about finishing it with moisture-resistant drywall and using the extra space to install a small indoor hot tub.

Would this be possible to do? Or is it a bad idea, because the humidity in the room could rust, damage, or short out the appliances like the washer, dryer, furnace, and water heater?

The room does have a window, so we could open that whenever the hot tub cover is off in order to vent the steamy air; however, I'm still worried if this would be sufficient.


texts: How to measure air flow coming out of registers?

texts:
As my contractors finish installing ductwork and the air handler for my central AC system, I would like to have a measure of how many CFMs come out of each register, as a function of how the system is designed. In other words, if there is significant disparity among solidly quantifiable measures (coming out of some metering device as opposed to putting a hand and saying "it's not blowing much"), I will send the contractors to reconfigure the ductwork until I get a proper distribution of flow.

Is there a metering device I can use to measure this flow?


texts: I need to know if I can run a 30 amp dryer off of a 20 amp breaker

texts: I have a Square D electrical box. I need to know if I can run my 30 amp dryer off of a 20 amp breaker.