texts:
Good day, all.

Could you please help me with a wiring question?

A 2-in-1 plug panel on wall but it’s damaged. I only have 2 separate plugs so planning to replace it.

There are 3 wires I found behind. What I am thinking is, if I can separate each of them (by using separator & extra small string of wires) and connect them individually into the separate plugs.

It shall be look like the picture.

Would it work?

And once connected, if the switches will work? What I am worrying is, either switch will not function, i.e. switch 1 but turn 2 off something like that.

Thanks.


texts:
We are (attempting) to replace our kitchen light fixtures with LED recessed lights. Let's just say it's been a huge learning curve... which I'm going to summarize here so you know the things we've tried and learned, before asking my questions.
Old Set-Up
South fixture on one circuit with one switch. North fixture on separate circuit (and separate connection to breaker box) with one switch.
First Plan
We kept the two separate circuits, but added a 3-way dimmer switch to each. We wired two LED lights on one, and three on the other. The circuit with three was noticably dim and we eventually discovered that we had wired them in a series, rather than parallel.
New Plan
We decided since we had to try wiring again we'd change our design. What we want now is to have all five lights on the same circuit with a dimmer switch on one side of the kitchen and a toggle switch on the other side.
My search for a diagram to follow led me to these:
https://youtu.be/JOtCH2Nfb9w (do all five need to have the first light as the hub?! Seems tedious, and all those wires won't fit into the little junction box built in to the new LED light)
https://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/3-way-switch-wiring-diagram.html (ours would be option #4 with more lights in the middle)
Question about wiring multiple lights in parallel as well a multiple lights in a parallel 3 way (this was my most recent find and now I'm thinking my attempt at setting it up like option #4 is totally wrong based on the discussion...)
I am attaching a sketch of how I have currently wired the lights. They do not come on at all. Please help me understand what is wrong, why, and what I need to do instead. Thank you!!
Details

12/2 and 12/3 cable
toggle switch on left, dimmer switch on right
Utilitech canless LED recessed lights with integrated junction boxes, #1500765


texts: How can I power IP camera from same lan cable as wifi AP over POE?

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I want to mount IP camera on my house , problem is that I do not want to drill into isolation or have cables hanging around house. There is already one lan cable mounted and connected to wifi ap which is powerd by POE injector.

Now how can I use this one cable to power two devices. I would buy wifi IP camera so data cables of lan cable will stay into wifi AP.

What device would allow me this?


texts:
We recently had 30" of water in a 1000 year flood. House is gutted so now's the time to fix a recurring problem I had. The previous owners made an add-on to the house where the concrete is only 2" above grade rather than the 6" for the rest of the house. Regular, heavy rain has slowly been rotting the lowest part of the wall. I can't prevent another 30", but is there something I can do to waterproof against the routine 3"?  It's a straight 23' run with an outside corner and another 12' run.  Both walls tie into the existing house and closed in a corner that was previously patio. I know the best solution would be to bring the slab up to the 6", but that is cost prohibitive at the moment.

Diagram of the slab


texts: Grounded outlet has ground wire attached to neutral post, neutral wire isolated and not connected

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As the title says, I encountered an outlet yesterday in a house that has been rewired.  I have re-set all the boxes in the house (they were out by about 1/2 inch as the owner was going to install sheetrock over the bead board) except this one and encountered no problems until now.  The outlet is a three prong grounded outlet and all the wiring is between 5-10 years old.  The box is an older steel box.

When re-installing the box after doing some wall repair, I discovered the outlet was wired odd.  The hot was correct but the ground wire was attached to the neutral post.  The neutral wire was insulated with tape and not hooked to the outlet at all.  It goes into a 15 amp breaker.  The outlet has worked great for a year and a half - I have used this room as a saw room and run table and compound miter saws through that outlet.  What was the reason for this wiring?  If I wire it correctly what problem should I look for?


texts: No power to some outlets after short circuit

texts: My room is connected to the room next to it so if I switch the breaker off my room and the room next to it all power turns off. I had an extension cord with wires that were exposed; they touched and sparked so when that happened all my outlets stopped working only in that room. My lights and fan still work and the power and outlets work in the other room. So what can I do to fix this?


texts:
Is the NPT used in United States Pressure Gauges parallel or tapered?
The following is the unattached photo.

When I attached the adaptor which is NPT to BSP converter. It is not all the way when tightened, not even half. Is the Pressure gauge thread tapered and the adaptor parallel? Or vice versa? how do I tell?


texts:
I want to drill a tiny hole from the bathroom into the next room. This wall has a sink and shower attached. On the other wall of the bathroom is a toilet and bath tub. Above the bathroom is another flat, which I assume has the same layout as mine. So above should be a bathroom as well (which I can acoustically confirm). I guess I share the drain with the above flat, which means my target wall most likely contains a drain going vertically from top to bottom, unless there's only one drain for the bathroom and it's on the toilet side. I guess this drawing makes the layout more clear:

I have this scanner to find electricity and water pipes, but drains are non metallic. How can I make sure not to hit the drain? The flat is in Germany.

The wall is most likely a brick wall. That's at least what I found in the kitchen. I didn't drill anything there yet, so I don't know the dust color. But the wall doesn't sound  hollow.


texts: Removing a room stat from central heating (in order to fit Hive)

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I'm about to fit a Hive wireless thermostat to my central heating system and have a couple of questions.

I need to disconnect the existing room stat - a Horstmann Centaurstat 7 - as this will be being replaced by the Hive wireless stat.

In case you are not aware, a Hive installation also involves replacing the programmer with the Hive programmer replacement that they call a receiver (I have a Honeywell 6400C programmer and it looks like the Hive receiver is a direct wiring swap).

I believe, from looking at the installation docs for the old/existing programmer and stat, that the room stat is wired back to a central wiring point where it effectively sits between the programmer and either the pump or the three way valve.

(To complicate matters we've just had some building work done and I'm not sure I can access this central wiring point any more - which is a whole other nightmare if it is the case)

I want to approach the Hive installation in two stages:

Install Hive with the old room stat temporarily bypassed rather than removed (just in case it doesn't work out for us).
When/if we are happy with the Hive system I will properly isolate the old room stat wiring at both ends so that it is properly unused but can be reinstated without having to run new cabling (the cable run is a nightmare between the wiring centre and the stat location).

So, to the first step.

My understanding is that the Hive receiver talks directly to the room stat and turns the heating on only when both the timer programme and the wireless stat indicate a call for heat (so rather than effectively having the programmer and stat in series in a traditional system, the Hive receiver is the one switch point for the heating).

I am guessing, then, that in order to bypass the room stat and still allow the Hive receiver unit to turn the heating on and off I need to connect the common and call wires at the stat end together (i.e. the wires that are currently connected to these terminals in the room stat).

Are my assumptions here correct?

(I can probably experiment my way through this, but my better half is likely to be a bit unhappy with me having the heating switched off for an extended period while I work this out on a cold November weekend! Therefore I'm trying to do the research beforehand).

Now to the second step.

Assuming that permanently connecting the common and call wires is the right approach at the room stat end, when I come to remove that stat properly and want to disconnect the stat cable from the wiring centre (a terminal block if I remember correctly - and assuming I can still access this terminal block after the building work!) I will also need to bypass the stat wiring as just disconnecting will leave me with a break in the wiring to the pump/valve.

I'm thinking that the simplest 'fix' for this is to replace the room stat cable with a short loop at the wiring centre end and identify it appropriately in case I should ever need to reconnect the wired room stat for some reason.

Once again, I feel I'm making some assumptions here so a second opinion would leave me feeling more confident about tackling this on a cold weekend when we'll probably want the heating off for as short a time as possible.

(BTW, turning off the mains to the central heating system and working safely ensuring nothing is live before disconnecting etc is a given here).


texts: Is there a minimum required distance between window and kitchen countertops?

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I'm planning on a kitchen remodel which will reduce the existing space between a window and the countertop. There is a required electrical outlet in this space.
I was wondering if there is any building code or at least a best practice for this.
My concerns are:

Is a space of about 3 3/4" between bottom of window and countertop ok?
Will I be able to fit the electrical outlet in there and if yes, it is ok code wise?

This outlet cannot be moved since one is required within 2 ft from the edge and I'm trying to avoid the pop-out one.
This is what it looks like now:

And this is what the new configuration would be:


texts:
I've got a soggy sideyard, which is more or less a textbook example of where you would build a french drain.

My issue is this: thanks to the way the yard / house / street / etc are all arranged, getting a sufficient amount of 1/4" rock into the back would be a heck of a project.

So, a  thought occurs: there's that rubber mulch stuff, which is made of rubber blobs of about the right size, costs about the same, and it's light enough that I could get all I need into the back in an afternoon by myself.

Has anyone ever tried using rubber mulch instead of rocks?  Did it work?  Should I just suck it up and go with rock?


texts: Need help identifying 75mm threaded sash window bolt

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I recently moved into a new flat with period wooden sash windows. Obviously they are not the most secure and any additional security we can add would be great. One of the sets of windows had 1 of these bolts in it but there are spaces for more, however I cannot seem to find any more of them to buy.

It is a 75mm long bolt with thread at one end with a square drive type (see attached picture). The threaded part is 25mm long, 7mm diameter and the thread size appears to be 1.42mm. The pin is 5mm diameter and 50mm long.

If anyone knows what the name for this particular type of bolt is I would be appreciative.

Many thanks.


texts: How do I keep heavy rain from draining into my house?

texts: The west side of our house is 2 stories high. We have 3 window wells on that side of the house. When we get heavy rains from the west blowing against the house, lets say 3 inches in an hour.  The water can't run away quickly enough and it runs into the basement. My wife wants to put another gutter on that side just above the basement windows to move that rain away.  Any other ideas?


texts: Plastic or metal pipes? what do you recommend?

texts: I need to install piping for hot and cold water, do you suggest plastic or metal pipes?


texts: Running heating pipe through beam under floorboard?

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I need to run central heating pipe horizontally under the floorboards of an upper floor. I need to go through only one 75mm wide beam, but I'm wary of boring or notching it, also because that would be quite close to the wall bearing the beam.
So I thought of running an 8mm or 10mm pipe immediately over the beam, by digging a small duct on the lower face of the 18mm floorboard resting on the beam.
I wanted to know if this makes sense, and how to prevent possible problems such as noises and pipe wear over time. Also: plastic or copper pipe?
Thanks!


texts: How do I calculate the size of electric baseboard heater needed?

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I'm working on finishing our basement which does not have any duct work to tie into for heating, so we're planning on using electric baseboard heaters.

How do I calculate the needed size of heater for each room?


texts: internal fuse on air handler blows every time it shuts off

texts: air handler for air conditioner has worked fine since I moved into the house but this year both times the air conditioner has turned on it has not restarted.  Both times so far the problem has been that the fuse on the inside of the air handler has been blown.  It seems to run fine while it is running.  The fuse doesn't blow while its running and shut it off prematurely.  It just blows after the air conditioning is shut off by the thermostat.


texts:
Just want to make sure I have this correct:
Have M1MB 070a BW heat/ac unit w/ a 710152B control board and a Coleman outside condensing unit.
-Have a four wire thermostat. R,Y,G,W
-Have 2 wires coming in from an outside condensing unit. R,W
-Have four wires to connect to from control board R,G,W,Grey (marked "C" on control board)

I've connected R to R, G to G, W to W, Y to the white terminal going to condenser unit, and red terminal connected to outside condenser unit to Grey (marked "C" on control board)

do have pics of rat nest if needed


texts:
The table is a bean shaped hollow structure made of two 4mm hardboard panels and has a convex siding. The top surface and the sidings are coated seamlessly.

It's 40mm thick and about 1.5 square meters in area, and I don't need to process the bottom side, just the upper surface and the sidings.

The table has few holes (up to 7mm in diameter) and many scratches all over the surface and sidings (up to 2mm deep).

I need to repair it and hopefully make it better then buying a new one.

I want it to be opaque non-glossy dark blue color.
Also I want it inflammable, safe for food, washable and kind of resistant to kid's technical experiments.

What kind and amount of coating, dye or other materials to use, what tools do I need, and what is the process?


texts:
(I asked Should I sharpen or replace my table saw blade? and got a good answer.  (Paraphrased: sharpen $100 blades, replace $30 blades.)  But, as it turns out, I was suffering from superstitious behavior, attributing the problem to the last thing I did rather than finding the root cause.  A brand new blade bogs down ripping 1/2" poplar so the blade is not the problem.)

I have a Craftsman table saw (model 113.298031) which recently started bogging down and stalling while ripping soft woods (1x4 pine, 1/2x3 poplar).  I cleaned the blade to no effect and put in a brand new combination blade also to no effect.  I now wonder if the belt or motor are to blame.

The motor mount allows the motor to be pivoted to tighten the belt but is at the furthest point from the blade so there is no room to tighten it by adjusting the position.  The belt is a series of links that look like leather.  It seems I could take the belt off, remove a link, and put it back together as a quick and cheap way to prove if the belt is the problem.  If that works, does it mean the belt is so stretched out (and weakened) that it needs to be replaced or does that solve my problem?


texts: Ceiling fan stopped working all of a sudden

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My ceiling fan was working great till about twenty minutes ago. All of a sudden it slowed down to a halt. Now it doesn't start at all. If I push one of the wings a little, then it starts moving slowly (like 10% of actual speed).

Is there a way to figure out what might be the problem here that doesn't require me to take it out of its place?


texts: how to properly seal protective sleeve entering electric panel

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There is a good picture of what my panel will look like at https://www.ecmweb.com/qampa/stumped-code-2

I don't want to copy their picture over here so I'll describe the situation: I'm adding electric service to my pole barn.  The inspector has said that since I have unfinished walls I should sleeve cables below 8' for protection.  The electric code allows for this but one of the rules is that the sleeve for the panel is to be sealed.  I don't see any specific products for sealing conduit with NM cables in it so I wonder if I'm supposed to run all cables and then squirt a bunch of expanding foam into the top of the pipe?  That seems messy so I assume that there is something better.

Is there a proper way to seal this protective sleeve with the NM in it?

Thank you.


texts:
I am replacing engineered flooring that is glued to a concrete slab due to damage.
I am replacing all of it, about 700 sq. ft.
Is it necessary to remove all of the old adhesive before gluing down the new flooring?
If so what is the best way to remove it?


texts: How can I flatten a warped board on a picnic table?

texts: As seen in picture, one of the pieces of wood is sticking up.  The top panels are secured by nails that go through the perpendicular supports.  I tried hammer the top of this wood panel back into the nail with no success.  Then I tried just hammer up the entire piece so I can remove this nail but the other nails that secure this piece to the perpendicular supports are not budging.  The nails from the bottom are embedded to deep to try to pull out too.  Any ideas?


texts: How long will a concrete bore plug take to cure?

texts: I have sealed an old abandon deep boring which was 220 feet long. First I poured small stone chips up to 7 feet and poured liquid cement mixed with Dr fixit up to 220 feet. My boring had PVC cashing which was 100 feet long. Please let me how long it will take to dry the cement to become fully concrete.


texts: I can't say for sure that I've ever seen a deck on a metal roof... is it against code? If not, can anyone point me in the right direction for information about building a deck (or a crows nest) on top of a house with a metal roof? Tips, cons, and codes are also of interest.


texts: Building a deck... Pier Size / Loading Question

texts:
I am building a deck. I have most of things sized out properly I think.  I just want to confirm that 12" piers are enough for what I am doing.  This is a freestanding deck next to a pool.
Did I draw my areas for loading pretty close?  The largest one I have is about 21 sq ft, which means the 12" piers should be plenty.
Beams are doubled 2x8, joists are 2x8.   All posts will be > 1' from edge of pool, but I had to get pretty close due to the wonkiness in the lower left corner.  (Even still, that last joist has a cantilever of about 1'9", so I could push it back a hair more if needed


texts: How do I dehumidify a season cabin in the winter

texts: My Aunt has a seasonal cabin in NH. At the end of the fall we shut the water off and close down the cabin. Last year we had to gut and re-do the entire cabin due to a mold problem. Part of the problem had to do with water getting in the half basement and then mold forming, but even before that problem, it always had a mold issue. It's my understanding that it's probably the late fall early spring that causes the issue, but that is just speculation. I am interested in putting a de-humidifier in the cabin, to ensure that it stays fairly dry, but I'm concerned about the fact that it will soon get below freezing. Perhaps there is on that has a frost shutoff? or perhaps I can rig something that will turn it off when the temperature goes below a certain value. I'm looking for recommendations on how to tack this problem.


texts: How do I source, remove, and prevent green mold on my aluminum windows?

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I live north of the equator in a humid climate.  The 2 north-facing windows pictured below only get direct light (lots of it) in the evening.  We get a lot of rain.  There is green mold growing from the windows for some reason.

I want to

determine why I'm getting this mold
clean off / get rid of the mold
prevent it from coming back without having to replace the windows.

The white on the stucco between the lip of the window and the stucco is unpainted white caulk that has been there for 2 years, and that I should have painted, and will once I clean off the mold.

Click for full size image


texts: Why might my ceiling fan have been disconnected?

texts:
Hi. We have been in our house for a couple of years and the ceiling fan in our conservatory has never woked. All the plugs worked fine.

Today, I took the fan down and found there was no power getting to the fan. I then check the spur coming off the house plug sockets and could see one set of connections that were fine but another which had seemly been cut at at the entry point. Lookin at the photo, it isnt a clean cut so i wonder if it had snapped.

Can anyone think why this might have disconnected? My underatanding is that these fans aren’t too electric hungry.

If not, does anyone have any tips how to reconnect with the wire being so close to the wall?

Thanks
Ian


texts: Is there a way to "dull" new solid exterior stain?

texts: I have had to touch up some places on the exterior of my house with solid exterior gloss after installing a new front door and putting on a back deck. But the stain appears so shiney next to the other boards.  Is there anyway to make it look duller?


texts: What are my options to level a concrete driveway?

texts:
I have quite an old house that was built in the 40s. During the heavy rain and winter seasons, I typically get large puddles of water in-front of my garage that seeps slowly through the weather strip. As you can imagine this is quite problematic due to water being a very destructive force.

I've isolated the problem to be an unlevel driveway slope where water will collect in-front of the garage. This is due to the frankenstein concrete slabs that are not level with each other from the driveway to the garage.

I'm wondering what my best options are for leveling this driveway to correct the slope so water will runoff towards the street gutters and grass. It seems that if I leveled the slope from the garage towards the street, the water would naturally run-off to the gutter.

I've been reading up on trench drains, self-leveler concrete, and much more to which I believe leveling the concrete would be my best bet. However I'm fairly new to most concrete work, so I'd like to make sure I'm going down the right path first.


texts: Add a GFCI Outlet to Existing Electrical Wire

texts:
I have an existing conduit coming from the ground and goes into the side my garage.  Just before it goes into the wall, there is a rectangle shaped box with screws that hold a small cover on.  If I remove the cover, I see 4 wires:  Black, White, Red, and Green. These wires power several 2 and 3-way circuts inside the garage.

I want to "splice" into these wires (from outside) so that I can have a GFCI outlet outside the garage.

My question is, what is the best way to do this?  There isn't really enough slack on the wires inside the little rectangle box to do anything.  I suppose I could snip the wires, remove the little rectangle box and replace it with a large junction box, and that way I would have room to extend the wires, and route them to another outlet box which would be my GFCI outlet.  Does this sound like the right way to do this?

If this is correct, how would the wiring diagram for this look?


texts: Water leaking through vanity, through gap between faucet base and sink

texts:
I have a bathroom faucet with a leaking issue. Whenever any water ends up on the top of the vanity or around the faucet base, it seems to leak through and drip down the bottom of the vanity. In order words, it doesn't seem like it's properly sealed. Is there supposed to a watertight seal using silicone or plumber's putty to prevent this?

Thanks.


texts: How can I add an outlet to a switch box?

texts:
I have a three-gang box and wish to take out one switch and add a double switch, eliminating one switch.  I'd like to use the space of the eliminated switch for a outlet. There is already a GFCI in this bathroom. The neutrals are all together on one circuit.
How do I use the hot wires to connect all of the switches and outlet? By the way, one other switch will remain for the fan.


texts: How do I lift a fitted carpet without damaging it?

texts:
We recently bought a house and had a bit of work done rewiring and re-plumbing everywhere.  Carpets were fitted around the house before we moved in.

However, we have recently noticed in our spare room (after shifting some of the crap sitting there) that not all of the floorboards under the carpet have been properly nailed down (we had a spark in doing some re-wiring, so I'm assuming he didn't secure them after running some cables).

So, the question is, can I:

a) Lift the carpet on one side of the room without damaging it (I've only ever ripped up carpets before that were going to the dump)?  If so, how do I do this?

or

b) Is it advisable/possible to just nail directly through the carpet to secure the floorboard?


texts: How to put main breaker in Square D Hom612L100 breaker panel?

texts: This panel (Square D Hom612L100) has 4 slots.  Is it possible to make one of them serve as the main breaker?


texts: Portable AC leaking water....how to locate problem?

texts:
Have an older portable AC -- maybe 10 yrs old. Has been sitting in the garage unused for a couple of years. Gave it to my son to use and after a couple hours of running he reported there was a large puddle of water under it but the collection bin for the water (that needs to be manually emptied and sounds an alarm when it needs emptying ) was bone dry.
I tried 2 tests. First one i ran in the garage for a couple of hours. No leak...but also no water in the collection container. When preparing to bring it inside for test 2, I tipped it and water ran out, confirming that water was going somewhere....just not to the collection bin. I brought it inside and put a pan under the unit to catch any leaking water and ran it for a couple of hours. When i checked I found a puddle under the unit, no water in the tray I put under it, and the unit's collection bucket was bone dry. When i was taking the unit back out to the garage and tipped it to get it down some stairs, the collected water came out.
Any idea how i can locate the leak? Do these things operate if I pull the back off and try to run it for a couple hours? It's as if there is a hose inside the unit that is supposed to direct the condensate to the collection container but it has dislodged. Is that a possibility?  thanks.
More info + pics:

See info on top pic. It makes sense if the secondary drain hose has a plug with a small hole in it, water will come out. I tested this.But what is puzzling is this thing has never been opened up. This is all original equipment. And it has never  leaked before. The other odd thing is when i poured water into the condensate tray, it drained to the secondary hose first. I covered the hole in the secondary hose plug, and water eventually started flowing, as expected, into the condensate container. I figure the secondary hose just filled up, backed into the condensate reservoir, and found the drain hole into the condensate container.
So do I just plug the hole in the secondary hose's plug? At least that seems like a place to start I suppose.
It is just so odd as there are no issues or rotting hoses, yet this leaking has never occurred before. And why is there a hole in the plug on the secondary container if it isn't supposed to be there?
thanks.


texts: Trying to replace a garage light switch with old wiring

texts:
Trying to replace a light switch in the garage with a new one but the wiring doesn’t match.

Old switch has white (currently matched to red/black) and black (currently matched to black) coming out of it. Out of the wall there is currently 2 white wires wrapped together but not connected with the current switch. The current switch was also not grounded.

New switch has white, black, red and green. I already tried matching the new switch as white to white, green to ground, black to black and red to black/red and it didn’t work.


texts: Need advice on deck posts that will have concrete poured around them

texts:
I have a raised deck, attached to the side of my house on one side and held up by three posts on the other. Under each post is a small cement pad and the posts bracketed to those with a buffer piece of a dark green wood.

I am going to be having the entire under deck covered with a cement patio. The issue that I see is that with the downward slope from the house that the concrete is going to be about 6 inches above the bottom of the deck posts. I know this isn't a good thing.

Is there anything I can coat the bottom of the deck posts with to help with future rot? Or any other suggestions?


texts:
Our Kenmore electric water heater is about 5 yrs old.
First it just stopped heating. I tried to play with the upper thermostat and found out that if you decrease the temperature setting to the minimum, it starts working (can hear the hissing sound inside). However after half an hour it started spewing very hot water out of the pressure valve.
I figured something's wrong with the top thermostat and replaced it with the new one. Same thing. Looks like it never turns off the top heating element. What else can I do to find the problem?
Thanks.

Update: Checked both thermostats again, seem to be working properly, first upper element heats, then lower one. Reduced the setting on both thermostats to the minimum and now everything seems to be ok, except the water is not as hot as I'd like it to be. I wonder if I should replace the lower thermostat as well, just to be on the safe side. Can it be that the lower thermostat never turns off on medium temperature setting and causes overheating?


texts: Wrap indoor USB adapter into plastic bag for outdoor usage?

texts:
I spliced 120V AC wires coming to the lamp so that I would have electricity for the USB adapter that would power USB camera (USB is used only to power the camera. The actual data transfer happens over WiFi). I put the USB adapter behind the black metal thing that attaches lamp to the wall.

While everything is under the roof and should not directly get in touch with water I still had this "awesome" idea to wrap the USB adapter into a plastic bag "just-in-case" water would somehow get there. However, now I am having second thought about this awesome idea because I am afraid that the plastic bag could actually facilitate condensate to form on the adapter and possibly damage it.

How worried I should be about using plastic wrap around the USB adapter (note, that this is dry California)? Would plastic wrap actually allow condensate to form and possibly cause short in USB adapter?
The USB adapter had a warning notice that explicitly mentioned that it is intended to be used only indoors. Just to be on the safe side, should I be worried about using indoor electronics in the way I did under the roof? Why?


texts: Use of joint compound for these repairs?

texts:
I have 2 repairs to make.

One is about a 3/8" gap next to window trim that I recently replaced when I built new plantation shutters for the window.  ( As a side note there are 5 windows and there will be the same repair necessary on all 5 ). The gap extends the length of the window - approx 60".

The other is on a ceiling in a den we recently scraped the popcorn texture from. Beneath it was a patch someone made previously  that is not flush with the rest of the ceiling.  Would I be better off cutting this out and re-patching with new drywall or just filling in the uneven surface?  The difference in height at the maximum is about the thickness of a yardstick ~1/8" - 3/16" or so.

Regards


texts: My wife asked me to replace a switch in her room because the ancient ceiling light was not working.  The house is over 90 years old.  The wiring for the switch had fabric insulation, which is easy to crumble.  I removed the switch plate and found the switch had been screwed into something, but it wasn't a box and there was plaster from the walls around it.  The wires were solid.  There were only two, no ground wire.  One had white fabric insulation and the other black.  I connected these to a new Lutron switch.  After securing the wires, when I turned on the switch the ceiling light did not work.  I brought a voltage meter to bear on the situation.  I was only reading 71 volts across the circuit.  What does this mean?  Is there a short in the circuit somewhere - possibly in the ancient ceiling light fixture?


texts: Goodman GMNT100-4 Unit- Blower Motor Works for Air But Not the Heat

texts: I have a Goodman GMNT100-4 that air conditioner was working great. However, I recently turned on the heat. The system goes through all sequences fine until it's time for the blower motor to kick on, it doesn't. The system then shuts down because it's getting hot. I've replaced the blower motor and squirrel cage a few months ago. I've changed the primary limit switch, the lower one at the blower motor and the pressure switch. Is my circuit board bad? The only other thought is a bad rollover switch or something on the heat inducer... Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!


texts: How should I go about fixing a holey laundry room?

texts:
When I removed some old elevated cabinetry in my laundry room, I discovered two holes in the wall. The first I documented here,

How do I close and seal an old external vent?

and the second can be viewed here:

My dryer in my single floor home currently vents downward through another (third) gnarly hole in the wall:

It continues down a couple feet into my crawl space, and then horizontally out through a wall vent by my deck:

None of these holes were put there by me. :)

I was going to try to address this by:

Covering the old vent (hole #2),
Fixing the current gnarly hole (#3) in the laundry room wall where the flex tube goes through, or patching it entirely and making a new hole closer to where
the dryer will be,
Replacing the extra long flex tube in my crawl space with insulated rigid pipe.

I'm considering, however, reusing the older vent pipe in #2 which goes up the wall, straight through the attic, and out the roof. I wouldn't have to run any new pipe and I could just patch the current gnarly hole (#3) with drywall.

This seems to have some drawbacks as I can't see how lint won't just settle at the bottom of the vertical pipe and clog it. Going down and out instead seems like it would give lint the chance to settle along a greater space and get cleaned out by me later. I suppose this is true only if the rigid pipe can be install co
mpletely horizontally or at a downward angle to the outside.

The advantages of using the vertical pipe would be that I don't have to run any new rigid pipe and this hole is actually closer to where my stacked dryer will be.

Should I reuse the vertical pipe via hole #2 or close it and fix and use hole #3? If the latter, what is the proper way of closing #2? I'm thinking I should shove some steel wool in the opening, pull out the short horizontal tube and fix up the wall.


texts: How remove front bearing in dremel 398 rotary tool?

texts:
My Dremel (model 398) has a jammed front bearing probably due to too much dry wall cutting and not enough cleaning. I was shocked happy when I found several of those bearings (used) in my toolbox. I'm wondering how to remove the front shaft (red arrow) and bearing (green arrow). It looks like the bearing is glued to the main shaft of the motor and the front shaft is glued to the main shaft. The red arrow points to a hole in the front shaft. There is no set screw in there, just a hole. The front shaft is where the collet goes with the tools that one might want to use. Any ideas how to remove both the front shaft and bearing? Is brute force the only way to go?
Thanks

UPDATE: Added another picture to show the part that holds the bearing removed from the rest of the tool.


texts: How can I rewire to remove/relocate this hidden junction box?

texts:
I discovered some seemingly-inefficient wiring and a hidden junction box in the wall. I understand why they would put it there, but it still seems inefficient. I think the same could be accomplished differently, eliminating the need for the junction box or possibly relocating it at a normal outlet height, but I'm not sure how.
I've drawn out the wiring diagram.
Labels

Fixtures

L1 = Exterior light fixture 1
L2 = Exterior light fixture 2

Switches

S1 = Switch that should control both exterior lights (L1 and L2)
S2 = Empty slot for a switch
S3 = Switch for ceiling fan outlet

Junction boxes

J1 = Round junction box 1 (no access, faces outside, this is what I want to remove, or relocate at normal outlet height, if possible)

Some important notes

Yellow and orange are on different circuits. I don't want to add anything to the wall heater line. I put it here for reference only.
Right now, the yellow and orange lines are 12/2. I can replace whatever is visible, pretty much. But, I prefer strongly to avoid replacing the wire bringing power into the first exterior outlet (it runs behind stone and access is only possible if I remove major sections of the exterior wall on the left side of the house). I also prefer to avoid re-running wire number 5; it's not as hard, but it would require me opening up the right side wall to find the next endpoint.
Since S2 is empty, I would like to use this for additional interior light control. But, those lights aren't installed yet. They would tap into line 5 (on another wall).
Due to L1's (and stud) position, there is almost no room behind L1. So, it has to use a pancake electrical box. There isn't room in that box for much.
Similarly, due to the stud position, the switch boxes for S1 and S2+S3 are a tight fit in those spaces. The space between studs where S1 is located cannot fit more than a single gang box. The space where S2+S3 is located cannot fit more than a 2 gang box.
Not shown are the horizontal fireblocks. I mention this since the hole currently can fit 3 12/2 or 12/3 wires alright. Unless I'm not mistaken, local code limits NM-B per bored hole to 3.
Number 5 run continues into the next side wall. It's not an end run. I don't want 5 to be switched.
I do have access to the crawlspace. I haven't run wire in a crawlspace before, so I'd have to figure out what the code is for that. I prefer to avoid doing this, if I can.
NM Cable Splices aren't compliant in this case (based on local code requirements).

Note that I wouldn't mind relocating J1 junction box underneath the switches (i.e., outlet height). But, that would put it under the fireblock and I'd need to keep the wires going through there to 3 or less. This seems necessary either way if I need to make the junction box accessible without it looking ugly inside.
Any recommendations here?


texts: Are there advantages to flex duct over sheet metal for bathroom fan (other than ease of installation)?

texts: Working on the bathroom in a currently unfinished basement and installing a fan. I have 4" sheet metal duct to use, but I know it would be a lot easier to install flex duct. I have a straight shot of 30' out the back of the house (really tempted to go 5' out the front of the house, but it wouldn't look as good). Given a 30' straight shot, is there any reason I shouldn't use the metal duct (other than ease of installation)?


texts:
I have a switch that I believe controls the lower socket on a split outlet. There is a red wire from the lower socket that goes into the switch, but it appears to be carrying 40 Volts AC relative to ground, and 50 Volts AC relative to live.
I have previously replaced the other switch in this gang, which is when I noticed that there was something odd. I replaced this switch too, and probably didn't wire it correctly (I didn't know about split outlets back then). The other switch in this gang controls overhead lights. There is a nearby gang of switches: one controls a fan, and I'm not sure what the other controls, but it has a red wire as well, so I suspect it's a different split outlet somewhere else. It's possible I've replaced an outlet somewhere and didn't notice that it was supposed to be split.
I'd appreciate advice on how I could possibly be getting 40 Volts on this red wire (should be either zero or 120, right?), and how it should be wired properly.
The switch is on the left in this photo: the red wire goes straight out of the junction box. The white wire from that switch is live (whoops on the colors).
The socket (prior to replacement, but I wired the new one the same way except I used the screws instead of backstabs) is seen in this photo. I have verified that there is continuity between the red wire in the socket and the red wire in the switch. There's a single neutral for both the upper and lower socket.


texts: tiles getting spongy and water coming up between the cracks

texts:
I have press-on tiles in my bathroom. We noticed they are getting spongy near the cooling vent. When I press it with my foot, I can see little bit of water coming up between the cracks. Duct work is underneath that floor (I believe).

Is it because duct is getting too cold and leaving moisture or there is some sort of pipe leak? I cannot see the pipe or anything from underneath but it could that duct is hiding it.

Do I need to worry about it and get it checked or is it normal? Do I need to call plumber or a handy man?


texts: My windows are probably original, from 1978. They are normal windows plus storm windows. The storm windows rattle like crazy in the wind. There's a lot of wind here in Boulder, Colorado. What's a good way to keep them from rattling?


texts: Acceptable "3-way" switch wiring solution?

texts:
I would like to use a raspberry PI to turn lights on remotely from a raspberry PI.

Wiring Diagram http://imstarboard.com/grachen.png

In this diagram, I am proposing 2 paths for completing the AC circuit and therefore turning the lights on: 1) the lightswitch, and 2) the relay controlled by the raspberry pi (orange wiring).

I know that this isn't a true 3-way switch, meaning that if you turn the lights on using one method you can't turn them off using the other method, but it does allow me to turn them on using either method when the lights are off.

Are there any concern with doing this?


texts: I have an RV which has a 1-1/2" PVC piping to ventilate the waste tank. I need to extend the roof end of the pipe by about 3 inches or so to install a different vent cap. I have no idea what I'm doing, but my research thus far leads me to believe I should buy a 1-1/2" "slip" coupling and then prime and glue that. Is this a valid approach?


texts: Poorly installed drywall anchors (by me)

texts:
I was trying to install drywall anchors to hold curtain rods. I used a drill bit to make small holes and screwed the drywall anchors into the the holes by hand. A couple went fine on one side of the window. On the other side of the window I tried the same thing but the hole ended up breaking apart and now the drywall anchor just spins and does not hold well. Is there a way I can fix these holes so a new anchor will work or another way to hold the screws in place?

Here are the holes I made and am hoping to fix. (The picture is sideways)

thanks In advance!


texts: My furnace has a vibration for about a second at the end of the heat cycle.

texts:
It runs fine for the approximately 15 minute heat cycle. It appears as though it happens as the thermostat is satisfied and the gas valve shuts off.  The vibration is heard upstairs and throughout the house.  The furnace runs after the vibration for a couple minutes.  There is no obvious location when at the furnace.  Should I remove the lower panels to be closer to the apparent noise (with buttons pushed to keep the unit operating?).Thermostat wiring issue - gas valve solenoid chatter?

The furnace is a 90% Arcoair 6 yrs. old and this is the second year with this issue.  I originally thought it was a shorted sump pump electrical issue as it sounded originally like an arcing when the sump pump came on (from upstairs).  New sump pump and continued noise and further investigating proves otherwise.


texts:
I purchased a used Jenn Air Cook top range (model c238b-c) to replace an older existing one (c221-c). Both units are the typical counter top with 2 slide-in double cook top element carthridge, and identical wiring diagram for both units.

The only difference is the colours of wires in the main wiring connection harness to the junction box.
The old existing connection had:
- red and yellow wires connected Red wire (from 220v cable to fuse box),
- black and blue wires connected to Black,
- White to White,

The new connection harness has 2 red wires and 2 black wires. So I'm assuming the obvious which is the 2 reds connect to the red and 2 blacks to the black.

Everything is working except for 1 element. When I turn that 1 element on, both the mini reset breaker on the range control box and main breaker at the fuse box trip immediately. If I remove the carthridge (ie, no elements) and turn on the switch, the breakers will still trip.

My first conclusion is that the power hook-up that I described, is ok, otherwise the issue would not be limited to 1 burner, and element cartridge is not the issue since breaker will trip even if cartridge is removed.
If so, I'm assuming the issue is with either the: 1-switch, 2- ceramic receptacle where element cartridge is plugged into, or 3 - wiring between switch and cartridge.

I have several questions:

1.Is my assumption valid that the main power connection is ok?

2.Is a continuity test on switch enough to rule that out as the source of the problem?

3.how to I check if the ceramic receptacle is ok?

4.Is there anything else I missed (before I remove the unit and dismantle to check for continuity on the wires between switch and ceramic receptacle)?

Apologies for long winded question, I figured full story would be more helpful.

thanks for your help
Luke


texts: How to prep and level part of my garage when there is a 6" difference in hight?

texts:
Specs:

Garage floor is cement
24'x32' (except where the car will park.)
far side is approximately 6"lower than the other. (~1° slope)
large crack running the full length.
a number of smaller cracks.
some old oil stains.

What I've got so far:

Power wash the floor of the garage.
Scrub and remove oil stains. (What do I use?)
Let fully dry. (How long?)
Use angle grinder with concrete cutting wheel to clean up and widened crack.
Update: Recommended to use a concrete saw instead.
Fill crack. (Bondo All Purpose Putty?)
Update: Use a Bonding Agent between the layers. (Something like Latex Drylok Bonding Agent?)
Use something between 2x4 studs/base plate to separate the cement and the wood and keep the cement from filling the stud bay. (Flashing maybe?)
Caulk cracks at base plate. (Silicone?)
Build Walls and seal gaps. (Silicone?)
Mix and pour cement. (What cement should I use keeping cost and simplicity in mind?)
Tool the cement so it's level.

Notes:

planning to use epoxy coating for floor.
prefer to use something that is simple but cost effective. (If you can call any of this simple)
will not pour where car is going to park.
will be both a workshop and a garage.

Questions:

Am I missing any steps?
What are good products to use given the depth of the pour goes from 0" to 6"?


texts:
I want to build a bench with a 450mm overhang from the legs (long story why I need the overhang, and I already have the legs which are heavy duty steel monsters). The bench will not hold anything heavy, but I want it to be very sturdy and last a long time.

Having a look at the local timber yard, my easiest options seem to be Pine, Oak, and FormPly.

What thickness do I need for a 2100mm by 600mm bench, with 450mm overhangs from the legs on each end? Should I run a batten underneath it? What size? Any batten have to be near the back of the bench.

Also, what varnish/paint should I choose that is hard wearing? I'd like it to be very dark (almost black would be ideal).


texts:
I have a toilet that is too close to the sidewall. It is a slab foundation. What are my options for fixing this without ripping up the floor?

I thought orginally an offset toilet flange but I need more than two inches. Would a corner toilet work in this scenario?

UPDATE:
Here is another picture


texts: Is there a mechanism to prevent a door from closing violently?

texts:
The door is heavy and people usually put a lot of force to close it, resulting in a violent shock, and the noise that comes with it.  Is there a way to prevent the shock, without having a door that is hard to move. I was thinking of something like a door closer, but I don't want the door to resist when it's fully open.

Is there something to would put a certain amount of resistance when the door is ajar?


texts: How should I size an air conditioner for a room in the attic?

texts:
My bedroom is upstairs in the attic and much of the interior walls/ceiling are the underside of the roof.

I believe there is a couple inches of hard foam between the drywall and the sheathing/roofing. The walls/ceiling of the room can get quite warm in the summer as the sun beats down on the dark asphalt tiles outside.

I'm trying to size an AC for the room, but see that most ACs suggest a square footage rule of thumb. I presume this square footage assumes a more typical mix of interior/exterior walls.

Is it worth considering my situation differently than just buying the AC that matches my room's square footage?


texts: How little space is possible between the stove and the hood

texts: Most of the ranges I look at in the professional area...Wolf, Thermador, Miele etc. mention that 30" is the minimum height from cook top to hood...the space I have currently is about 27 1/2" and I cannot change the height without major construction.  This is for a 30" range and hood (300 CFM)...do you foresee issues with this?  Thank you!


texts: Will walls need re-plastering after removal of painted wallpaper?

texts:
Getting ready to buy for the first time and so I'm trying to prepare myself for renovation projects. I'm mostly looking at old Scottish Victorian tenement flats.
The one I viewed earlier today is a second one where all the walls are covered by a semi-gloss beige paint spread over some kind of strips stuck to the wall. You can tell the places where one strip joins with the next, in some places they come off a bit (see the photo). There are also places where the wall isn't smooth i.e. there are lines and patches of wall being indented or protruding a few millimetres in contrast with the surrounding surface.
Needless to say, I'd probably want to make the walls nicer, but I have a few questions:

Presumably I'd need to remove the wallpaper-like thing from the walls. What kind of treatment would the walls need after that and before I apply a new paint or wallpaper? Would I need to re-plaster? I know that sometimes it's a game of chance but in general how common it is to mess up the underlying lime plaster when redoing the wall surfaces?
Is the only way to get rid of the unevenness of the walls re-plastering?

Thanks!


texts:
Working on the roof, several J-bolts appeared to have been fastened with more than a single nut. Without exception each such bolt was almost flush to the cement sheet.

I saw this done on a car wheel aeons ago; the original nuts holding the wheel were almost thrice as long as the four nuts.

Is a bolt fastened to more than a single nut less likely to pop open?
Is it better to use two nuts, rather than a single long nut on the bolt?


texts: Correct drainage setup for a wall-mounted AC?

texts:
I have a wall-mounted AC unit.  Specifically, a Fujitsu ASTG24LFCB.  Recently water started leaking from the interior portion of the unit.  I followed the instructions in this video to troubleshoot the problem.  The process mainly involved tilting the unit up and checking for any issues/blockages in the drainage tube.

I didn't see any issues, but noticed that the drainage tube seemed to travel upwards after leaving the unit and entering the wall cavity.  Thinking that could be a cause of the leak (because I assume the water can't drain uphill?), I started maneuvering the tube back through the hole in the wall to position it more in the downward direction.  I was then surprised to discover that the drainage tube comes to an abrupt end.  As in, it does this:

I don't see how this could possibly work?  But not knowing what else to do, I fed the tube back into the wall cavity in the downwards direction, and the unit no longer leaks.

However, there's no longer any water being discharged on the exterior side of the wall.  I think the reasons for that are obvious.  Less obvious is an explanation for how the water ever reached the external drainage tube in the first place (which I'm positive it did, in the past)?

Is it common (or even valid) for an aircon to be installed like this?  If not, how can proper drainage be restored?  And what sort of damage will having the unit draining into the wall cavity cause, over what sort of timeframe?


texts: How do I activate my Cat5e+ connections int my apartment?

texts:
I'm living in a recently built apartment (2012 or so) and have dual ethernet (Cat5e+) and coax connections at 5 different locations across the floor plan.

Connecting my modem to any of these 5 coax connections across the apartment gets me network access.

My goal is to gain network access through the ethernet connections and use them to connect directly to my WiFi router and/or devices.

My thought is that I need to connect my modem to the panel in my closet:

Possibly also connect my modem to a switch and then connect my switch to the first 5 of 8 ports shown here:

I'm guessing each of those 5 correspond to the ethernet ports across the apartment.

However I have a flurry of coax cables that are identified only by 1-5 (some numbers have doubles) and after connecting my modem directly to each one individually, I found none have a downstream.

What am I missing here? What steps should I take to rig up my cat5e+ connections throughout my apartment?

Thanks in advance!


texts:
I recently moved into a repossessed flat and the electrics were a bit of a mess. Sockets, switches, etc. hanging off walls but it has since all been made safe/good by an electrician.

The only thing still not working is the extraction system. There are ducting hoses that run from both the kitchen and the bathroom ceilings back to a large metal box above the ceiling of the utility cupboard. I am assuming that this is an extraction unit which pulls the air out of the kitchen and bathroom and then pushes it outside.
On the outside wall of the utility cupboard is an isolator switch which I am confident controls it - it is the only one in the flat and my neighbours uses this switch to turn theirs on/off.

However, there doesn't seem to be any power going to the switch. When I check it with a multimeter I am reading between 0-5V depending on what circuit breakers I have switched on.

I was advised to cut a hole in the ceiling and examine the extraction unit to see why it's not working, but before I do this and make a mess, I am inclined to try and figure out why there is no power to the switch first. Logically to me, if there is no power to the switch, then it's obvious the extraction unit isn't going to work, so it would make more sense to figure out why it has no power.

What I am wondering is what is the best way to figure this out? I am assuming that it runs off the light circuit and that there is a break in the circuit somewhere, but the lights all work fine. I'm thinking it's possible there is just a loose cable somewhere behind a light switch that is breaking the isolator circuit, but short of unscrewing them all to look, is there a better option that would speed this up? Some tool that will help me better work out where the fault is?


texts: Is a 200 amp panel adequate for my needs?

texts:
I'm looking for feedback on my plan before I begin the panel replacement, so thanks for your input. I already have a permit and am allowed to do all the work myself as long as it passes 2014 NEC code upon inspection.

My primary goal is to remove the 60 yr old aluminum wire and replace with copper and upgrade the panel box replacing all breakers as every current breaker is some weird double breaker that has two flip switches and two circuits in every slot on the box. Not enough room in current box if removing all doubles for singles.

I'm done running new wire throughout the house and ready to shove the new home run wires to the new box, this is where i have uncertainty as I'm trying to future proof. I anticipate a second HVAC for the second floor (i live in the south and this is the standard now for getting the upstairs below 85 in summer). Thus, future box would have about 15 20AMP breakers, 4 50 AMP breakers (HVAC) 3 30 AMP (tankless water heater) one stove at 40 AMP and dryer at 30 AMP. (presently have 1 30 for tank water heater and a 70/50 for hvac, which is oversight from hvac replacement done last summer and should be 50/50). I have a 200 AMP service presently, if i require more the local company will run a second 200AMP line to the house.

Questions:

My Amperage total in these breakers is way over 200, i understand not all are used simultaneously such as AC/Heat, etc, but should i consider the upgrade to 400?
the HVAC and water heater are all in the crawlspace (in this area my crawlspace is 7ft tall with plenty of access space), I think it would be wise to run 1 25 ft #6 wire from the panel (or second 200 AMP service) using a 100AMP breaker and create a subpanel (or second panel entirely with service upgrade) then run #6 CU  wire to the HVAC and water heater, this would be 10-15ft for each. This excludes the second floor airflow handler that would eventually be in the attic- that is going to be directly above the main panel and would likely run it through that panel to keep wire distance shortest.
What am I overlooking?

---UPDATE---

Based on feedback, further research and opening up my panel box. I'm thinking I'll consider not replacing the panel as i have a 200 30/42 box, but several of these tandem breakers are not in proper slots so I can fix that while ripping out all the AL wire and putting in new breakers and CU- I may do away with most of them as they're unneeded if i do the subpanel. I still think a sub panel is a good idea given all the big stuff is centralized - even though that means a flipped breaker would be under the house...

New question, last time i was in the box replacing a breaker that was shooting sparks into the house i thought my main lines were copper, they clearly are not. an electrician friend thinks they look fine, but should i consider a CU replacement all the way to the meter?

on the left is my trial/error breaker description, on the right is a hole patch from previous owner, not sure what the reason was


texts: Can I cut carpet tiles with a table saw?

texts:
I don't find any specific blades, however no explicit recommendation not to cut short pile carpet tiles with a table saw. That's however no base to assume that I should try it.
For starters, I'm not so much concerned with the result of the cut, but with my safety, as I'm willing to try it and don't mind loosing a part of a tile or two. However, if it's impossible to do proper cuts due to a material damage, I'm grateful for an explanation as well.
I prefer a table saw if possible because I need much less force than with a knife. And I can reach precision trivially on the table whereas cutting with a knife with one plank for a straight line and another for protection of the floor seems unnecessarily complicated and improvised if I have a high precision power tool nearby.
I'm not seeking advise how to optimize cutting carpet with a knife. The post is to collect input on the specific question.


texts: 1830 farm house - installing metal vertical siding over original clapboards

texts:
The current siding consists of asbestos shingles over original clapboards.  I have removed a few with just a long armed transfer shovel.  I was curious to see what was under them. Yes I will dress properly to remove the rest ;-)

Questions:
1) Once the shingles are removed, can I put some sort of foam board over the clapboards and then wrap?  Will that be airtight "enough"?
2) I then install vertical furring then install the vertical metal siding.  Is that going to work?

What I want to prevent is having to remove the clapboards. But I will and then sheath in zip if need be if that's the best option.

I want to save money...


texts:
I have a whirlpool (aka amana) dishwasher I got from home depot a year or so ago, Model # WDF510PAYW.

A month or so ago I cleaned the upper and lower filters for the first time.  They were full of soft black gunk.  (Next time I will read the manual.)

Since then I am getting small pieces (1/8" to 1/4" in diameter, but thin) of black gunk on my otherwise clean dishes.

I had hoped that this would be temporary and the dishwasher would clean itself over time. That has not happened.

In addition to black pieces on the dishes, there is a black film on much of the inside of the dishwasher. (See photos.)  I still get some soft black gunk in the lower filter and some grey film in the upper filter, which I clean often.

I tried running it through empty with some vinegar.  That did not help.

Any ideas on what I should try now?

Thx.

PS What is the round, hat shaped plastic piece in the lower right hand corner of the first photo? It has some black gunk under it but I cannot get it off to clean it.

here]3]3


texts: We have just built a house with a new > 35 ft deep well. The water tested clear of bacteria and sulfur, etc. We have ONE faucet out of 10 sinks in the whole house that stinks. It is ONLY the cold water in one of the master bath sinks. If I let it run for a minute, the smell goes away. Obviously all our pipes are new. What could be the cause and what would be the fix?


texts: Is this gas range ventilation setup dangerous?

texts:
I recently moved in to a new apartment that has a gas range and oven. I have never had a gas stove before, and so I am not sure how it should work.

While cooking the other night, our Carbon Monoxide detector went off. I was using the fan on the hood, and could "see" the gas/exhaust being sucked up into the hood. I opened the windows, and turned off the oven, and we were fine.

After inspecting the hood, I am curious to know if this is how it should be set up.

Here is the hood above the stove.

Here is the opening that empties into the cabinet above the hood.

The hood doesn't vent outside of the kitchen, just flows up into the cabinet and out the hole cut into the top into the room.

Do I need to be concerned about this setup? Is this dangerous? We use the stove an awful lot, the oven less frequently. Are we at risk for CO poisoning?
Should my landlord have mentioned this to me, and maybe said "hey, open the windows when you use the stove"?

Update:

Can anyone direct me to where I can get a definitive answer on whether this is a real issue? My landlord disagrees and says "modern gas ranges do not emit carbon monoxide"

However, the CDC Carbon Monoxide FAQ website says:

  All gas appliances must be vented so that CO will not build up in your home, cabin, or camper.
  Never burn anything in a stove or fireplace that isn't vented.

I would like to know if I need to get out of this apartment, since the landlord refuses to acknowledge this as an issue, or whether he actually is right, and there is nothing to worry about.

EDIT: This is in Chicago, IL if that helps anyone.


texts: Troubleshooting hooking up ethernet switch in home office

texts:
I'm a home owner trying to get an ethernet switch running in my basement office. I've run a weatherproof CAT5e cable from my router on my main floor to the basement and I've used a cable tester to confirm that the cable is good.

Trouble is, I've hooked several brands of ethernet switches to the cable and then hooked up devices to it but no signal seems to be coming out. They are all unmanaged switches from several manufacturers, but nothing seems to be working.

As far a s I can tell, I'm doing it in the right order: Internet (cable modem) -> router -> 50 foot weather-proof CAT 5e ethernet cable (tested) -> variety of 5- and 8- port switches = dead end.


texts: What is a good plastic to use for lite milling?

texts: I want to do some lite milling with a drill press and XY vice using plastic. I am looking for a cheap easy to machine plastic. I have dealt with these guys for aluminum, but not plastics. I don't know much about the different types of plastics yet. I see a white plastic in many projects that is often milled, but I can't find the name of it.


texts:
I have some Marco 792775 gas logs, from the mid to late 90s. They haven't been used in 20 years. I don't have the manual, and I haven't been able to find it online. Seems the company went out of business a while ago.

They have a control knob that's different than what I'm used to for most gas logs... it looks like this:

I've had no trouble getting the pilot going. Turn the knob to pilot, press it in, gas starts flowing, hit the piezo-electric button, and boom, flame. If I keep it in for a while, the thermocouple heats up and the pilot stays lit. Great.

Turning the knob to off cuts the gas to the pilot, and it goes out 20-30 seconds later, as expected.

What I'm struggling with is actually getting the logs to fully light. Just once, I was able to turn the knob counter-clockwise past the pilot position (I think I depressed it, but I'm not 100% sure) and over towards LO and HI. The logs lit. However, every time since then, when I try to do this, the knob won't turn past pilot. I've tried turning with the knob depressed, turning with it not depressed, starting at the off position, starting at the pilot position, turning clockwise just in case, etc. Nothing seems to allow the knob to turn over to the actual running positions.

My theories are 1) the knob is broken, 2) there's some sort of safety mechanism that has engaged and won't let me turn the knob, or 3) I'm making some silly, embarrassing mistake.

Can anybody speak to these theories? Does anybody have experience with Marco logs and know how the knob is supposed to work?


texts: How much load can these plastic cabinet things hold?

texts:
I just moved into my first house and I'm wondering how much load these plastic things (shown in picture) can hold. Each cabinet shelf is held up by four of these things.

Watching diy videos online, I'm convinced that the cabinets themselves can withstand a decent amount of hold. Wondering if these plastic things can, too.


texts:
I read the following but my situation is slightly different: Wifi Thermostat to Reznor Garage Heater. No "C" wire connection on terminal strip  He had an unused wire connected to W2.
I want to change the stat to one that requires a C wire.  Installer used 18-3 and connected Red to R, Green to G & White to W1.  Short of running new or more wire, do I have any other options?
Does the 24V have to come from the Reznor?
Thank you


texts: Lighting fixture: 2 live, 2 neutral, no ground - Is is okay to have the 2nd neutral used as a ground?

texts:
I live in Germany and I have just moved into a new apartment and started to change the light fixtures, but I ran into confusion. Wires coming out of the ceiling are - two black & two white (no earth), and no grounded mounting plate - just a screw into the celling. Also, none of the wires were tied together.

The light fixture I wanted to remove had one of the black live wires attached to the live terminal of the fixture (cool), one of the white neutrals connected to the neutral terminal(cool), and then... the 2nd white neutral was connected to the light fixtures Earth!?
I plan to replace it with a fixture that also requires earthing.

I believe that at the main power source (municipal), Earth and Neutral are tied together, but is this common practice? Should I connect the second neutral to the earth, or should I rather not 'ground' my light fixture?
(btw: the light is controlled by a dimmer)


texts: are crown molding corner blocks a good idea

texts:
This will be my first time at installing crown molding.  I see that I have option of installing crown molding with corner blocks which I can buy in various styles and I think look nice.  It seems that this option adds cost to the job but means i wont have to be doing any miter cuts or cope any joints which will speed up the job for me as a newbie.  Aside from additional cost of purchasing the corner blocks are they any downsides to using corner blocks vs. not using them and going through and doing all the mitering and cope cuts?

thx for any advice


texts: Best way to divide TV roof antenna to several rooms

texts:
I am renovating a new house (in the UK).  The roof antenna at present is only connected directly to the main tv socket, I would like to add more tv points to most rooms in the house but am unsure of the best (and cheapest) way to split the single incoming RF signal.

Note: only two or three TVs will be in use at any one time.

Ground floor - 5 TV sockets.  First floor - 6 TV sockets.  Second floor - 4 TV sockets.

Do I take take the main antenna cable into the loft space and split it 15 ways with long cables leading directly to each wall socket.  Or do I split each floor with a feed down to the next, ie Second floor split 4 ways + 1 to the next floor, where it is split 6 ways + 1 to the next, where it is split 5 ways.

Which is the best option to ensure good signal at each output and also in terms of cost of length of cable vs running powered amplifiers?

What type of splitters are best suited for this job?


texts: How do I exchange a non polarized Christmas light plug with a polarized plug?

texts:
One of the two wires on my small white Christmas lights broke off at the male plug (which has a fuse and is non-polarized). It broke right against the plug so I can't strip each side of the broken wire and wrap them together.
I have two questions; I can not find a non-polarized replacement plug that is meant for Christmas lights. Do they exist? If not, how do I use the replacement "vampire" type clip (which is polarized) if I don't know which of the two wires is hot? There is no marking or ridges on either wire. I can make this string my end string (since the polarized plugs I've seen do not allow you to plug in another string) but I want to make sure there is no issue with polarity and that I won't ruin the string of lights (and the strings behind it) and/or the outlet I will plug it into. Thanks


texts: I want to reallocate a double switch and also split it into two switches. Can I do it like this? Is it 100% safe?

texts:
As the title says, I want to reallocate a double switch and also split it into two switches. I know this is a very basic question, but I just want to be 200% sure this is safe, as I nearly don't have any experience on playing around with electricity.

The point is to basically split the power cable into two using a connector and two other cables and, of course, plug the bathroom/kitchen cables into their respective new switches. But the drawing should be self explanatory. Also, I live in Europe, thus this is on 220~240V.


texts: Does either capacity or body type contribute to a less noisy wet/dry vacuum?

texts:
I'm looking at buying a wet/dry vacuum. So far I favor the plastic-body variety, because I'll be able to bang it a little while dragging it around through its wheels, without constantly worrying that the body is getting dented.

I also favor the smaller capacity ones, because I'm expecting that a pump labeled "peak 2 HP" will have more than enough power for my applications: cleaning the garage floor and the inside of the car.

Yet I'm concerned about the noise. I hate that the Hoover-branded one I use at home is awfully loud. Does a plastic body (instead of stainless steel) mean more noise in a wet/dry vac?

What about the volume? One reviewer writes that the larger the capacity, the lower the noise. That doesn't make sense to me. Could larger-capacity wet/dry vacuum indeed be less loud than smaller ones?


texts: How can I remove wood filler from knots in cherry furniture?

texts:
My sister bought some new Amish cherry furniture from Ohio
When it arrived they had filled knots with some kind of wood filler. Is it possible to get it out of knots?


texts: How do I ground my replacement outside porch light?

texts: I am attempting to replace an outside porch light. After removing the old light, I found the metal electrial box had the ground supply attached to a screw. The new light has a green ground wire and I was wondering if attaching it to the green screw on the bracket would be sufficient enough for grounding, or, do I need to remove the ground supply from the screw and pigtail it to the ground wire from the new light fixture? See the attached photo of the electrical box.


texts: Is it code to nut off a ground wire instead of connecting it?

texts:
I was replacing a standard light switch and noticed that the current light switch’s ground wire (green) was not being connected to anything.  It was connected to the switch on one end and to a wirenut on the opposite end, however no other wires were included in the wirenut.  The wirenut was simply terminating the single grounding wire.

This goes against my understanding of how a grounding wire should be wired, but this building is brand new construction and so must have passed inspection recently.  Is this a valid way to ground a light switch and if so, why?


texts: Should I use round or rectangular electrical boxes for stubbing exterior security cameras?

texts:
I'm building a new house and can't afford the cameras now, but I want to install the boxes on the exterior of the house and run Cat6 cable to them for PoE IP cameras at a later date. It is much easier to install boxes and cable (also the cheapest part) while the siding and drywall and insulation are not in place.

The boxes will be mounted on the wall (not under the eves), and probably about 8' off the ground so they can get faces, but not be in reach for tampering without a ladder.

But, without knowing what specific model of camera I'll get (and models will change as time goes on), should I install one-gang rectangular, two-gang rectangular, or 4" round boxes like the kind used for exterior light fixtures?

Is one type of box preferred over another, or is it adaptable later where it doesn't matter?


texts: Powering battery powered tools from the power grid

texts:
I have a number of Ryobi One+ tools that have enough power and quality for me in most cases. They all share the same 18V battery form factor which means that I can invest in 2-3 batteries and use them for any tool, which is nice. However, for longer jobs I would like the option of plugging the tools into an electrical socket and run off of that, to not have to charge or change batteries all the time.
Understandably, companies make lots of money from their battery sales and aren't interested in providing such a solution themselves. I would also break the warranty if I did something like this. However, practically, this this possible?
There are 3D-printed products that act as an adapter from a regular 18V laptop transformer and lets us plug that cable into the empty battery socket of a power tool. These are quite expensive and some reports vary on how well they work compared to the actual batteries. Before buying them I would like advice on if I can build one myself, and what transformer specifications would be necessary.
None of my tools or batteries specify the number of watts they consume at maximum load. When fully charged my multimeter says they output 20V DC. There must be a limit in the batteries so the tool doesn't drain the entire battery instantly and burn up, but is it possible to calculate that somehow without jacking in the multimeter between the battery and the tool and putting it under load? I don't think it would be safe to attempt that. My idea is that if I ran the tool from a 100-120W 20V transformer, or whatever the power I would need, it would simply be a matter of properly connecting the positive and ground wires to the tool battery socket. The easiest way would likely be to sacrifice a battery by taking it apart, removing the battery cells and rewiring it from the transformer. Is this very foolish or not?
Thanks for any help. I have some wired tools that are more powerful, but would really like to use my Ryobi kit both ways when their power is enough.


texts: I accidentally short the c wire and both units not turning back on

texts:
I was trying to installed my nest thermostats.the power were shut off but it seem some current still in, so it short the system
my question I can't located the fuse on the board so is that mean the fuse at the disconnected blow off.( I check both fuses by the look of it I can't tell)
any in put would be appreciated.
Thank you


texts: Is it safe to drill into the metal spacer between drywall and joist?

texts: I am trying to install a bike hoist in the ceiling of my garage.  I found the ceiling joist using the stud finder and when I tried making a pilot hole, I noticed that I am hitting metal.  I don't have full access of the garage crawl space but the location I went to has a metal spacer between the 2x4 and the drywall.  Is it safe to drill through the metal spacer and into the 2x4 to install my bike hoist?


texts: I had a new roof put on last fall.  I never noticed any hot spots on my roof until this winter.  I had an inspection after the roof was put on and I was told my insulation looks okay.  When they put on the new roof they closed two lower vents on my roof on the back side.  There are canister vents on the back side near the top.  My soffit covers are solid and I'm planning on adding soffit covers with holes.  Thanks for any advice.


texts: 1/4" Hardibacker cement fiber board for shower walls

texts:
I'm preparing to lay tile in my new bathroom and I picked up the cement board but when I got home I realized I bought quarter inch instead of half inch thick sheets. The Hardibacker website says that you can use quarter inch but a lot of websites that I've looked at recommends half inch for the walls. Has anybody use quarter inch cement board for shower walls with large tile with good results?
another question I have is what is the preferred method for laying tile on concrete slab floor? Should I use cement board or the rubber mat uncoupling style? Any experiences are appreciated


texts: What should I do about a hole in my dryer hose?

texts:
My cats tore a hole in our electric dryer vent hose, and I used the dryer to dry-clean a sweater using one of those sheets that you put in the dryer.
Now I'm really worried about the fumes in the house and how it will affect us.
I dried a couple of loads of clothes. I'm trying not to freak out!


texts: How can I get rid of a yellowjacket nest under a flat roof without using poison

texts:
I have a nest of yellowjackets (the not very aggressive european kind) that is just below my flat roof. I would normally just leave them, but I have no way of getting to the yard without passing by the nest at a distance of about a foot. Currently, this does not seem to make them swarm yet (though I can get hit by one as the swoop down a bit before entering the nest).

I'd like to get rid of them without using poison (the yellowjacket poison I can get in the stores here is a neurotoxin that also kills cats and there are a lot of cats in the neighborhood and they love that flat roof).

The nest itself is hidden. I can only see the entry points. Damage to the roof or walls is not a big issue (the entire building needs to be replaced in the next few years anyway).


texts: Is it possible to take a regular submersible pump with a garden hose-sized line, and introduce it into a larger diameter line so that I may pull larger material from the water source? I'm thinking of some kind of jet pump type hybrid?


texts: Water coming down PVC pipe from ceiling to furnace

texts:
Water comes down the PVC vent pipe to my furnace and leaks out at the elbow. Water seems to come even when the furnance is turned off.  I had a furnance man come out.  He said there is a leak at the roof, as it had been raining.

Now, it is days after he left.  We have not had any rain.

What type of repair person would I need to call?


texts: What is the difference between an interlock and a transfer switch?

texts: With respect to wiring a standby generator, what is the essential difference between an interlock and a transfer switch and what are the pros and cons of using one rather than the other?


texts: How can I remove the tile from this wall?

texts:
Doing a tile removal on our master tub/shower.  I'm pretty sure the tile is original to the house, which is 34 years old (1978).  It's a 4 1/4 inch tile, that has been backed by dry wall.  When I was at Home Depot, I asked about what the best tool was and was directed to a 2 3/4" "Electricians" chisel.

After watching a few videos, it appears many people use some sort of curved chisel to help approach the back of the tile with a more perfect lateral, where as with the chisel we have (above) is straight and will always angle into the wall/backing a bit.  I'm not sure if that's part of our problem or not.

Right now, the tiles are coming off in very very small pieces - maybe thumb or finger size if we're lucky.  Furthermore, they are really only coming off with the drywall backing.  If we get the chisel in deep enough and try to pry, the whole wall of tile moves, but clearly not enough to just pull the whole thing off as one piece (tile + drywall backing), given the nails keeping the drywall anchored are (as expected) numerous and spaced through-out the backing.

Any recommendations? Are we using the wrong tool here?  What should I expect when removing from dry-wall backing?  Should we loosen the grout first with a grout-removal tool (we have an oscillating multi-tool we can get the grout-head for)?

Below are some pictures of what we are seeing.  These three pictures represent the sum of about 45 minutes of actual chisel work, and a huge mess of tiny and in some cases pulverized tiles.


texts: How to replace a manual timer by a simple on/off switch on a home appliance

texts:
Case

On a simple 220 V home appliance equipped with a manual timer switch ( a knob that you can turn clockwise up to the desired position -time- and will then automatically turn counterclockwise for the chosen time period ), I would like to either bridge the switch with an additional on/off switch, or replace the timer by an on/off switch.

Goal

The goal is to bypass the 1 hour limitation imposed by the manual timer itself by adding an "always-on / always-off" capability.

Q
Can I do it "just like that" and if not, how could I easily do it at home with basic electronic tools ?
Alternative :

What if I intend to replace the manual timer by a digital timer ? I guess it might itself have to be powered somehow.

Thank you for your help.


texts: Why doesn't a doorbell work after a power outage?

texts:
My friend has a simply wired doorbell. Front door only. The doorbell stopped working after a power outage. Power came back on - no doorbell. I checked all the wiring - doorbell at the front door to chime box to the transformer. Visually, nothing wrong. I checked the transformer. My voltage meter registers it at 12v. The transformer says 16VAC on it. Zero voltage on the chime box and doorbell.

Here's what I've done to troubleshoot:

Remove the doorbell button and touch both wires together. No ring.
Tried a new doorbell button - no ring
Replaced the chime box - no ring
Replaced the transformer - no ring.
The new transformer registered at 12 volts too.
Both the old and new transformer - the wires into the house - that's 120v and looks good.

At my house, my doorbell works. When I test my transformer, it comes back to 12v too. My volt tester tells me 12v, 24v, etc. It doesn't have a 16v on it.

So what could be going on here? It could be a break in one of the wires, but I don't have the tools to test for that, nor the room to crawl in the attic and find the wires and visually trace them. I wouldn't even know where to begin on that.

Any other troubleshooting steps I can take?


texts:
What is a multiwire branch circuit? (also known as "multiwire circuit", "multiwire branch circuit", "split phase shared neutral", "two circuits fed from one 12-3 or 14-3 NM-B cable", "shared neutral circuit",  etc)
This question comes up from time to time on this site, and I couldn't locate a canonical answer about what a multiwire branch circuit is.
They seem to be relatively uncommon in residential wiring, so many homeowners may not know how to recognize or handle them, especially when taking on "simple" DIY projects like adding a GFCI or AFCI outlet or breaker.
This boils down to multiple sub-questions, but I think they are related enough to answer here:

What is a Multiwire Branch Circuit?
How do I know I have one?
What do I need to do differently when working with one?

A few related questions that give various pieces of the answer are:

How can I add a GFCI breaker on two circuits with a shared neutral without rewiring?
How do I install a GFCI receptacle with two hot wires and common neutral?
Connecting 2 GFCI Breakers to 2 Hot Leads and 1 Common


texts: How to attach hose to router table port?

texts: How do I attach my dust collection hose to the port on router table fence?  I am using a standard shop-vac hose.


texts:
I have a problem with a set of patio french doors that I can no longer lock
Upon examining them I found they are misaligned as can be seen in the below photos.

The doors are fully shut but there is a gap between the two doors as can be seen in the photos which prevents them from being flush

The gap is 1/8" at the top and increases to 3/8" at the bottom

Any ideas as to what is causing the misalignment and what must be done to correct the problem would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Remove 3-way switch from a 4-way circuit?

texts:
From what I can tell, I basically have the same setup as this illustration.
What I'd like to do is remove the 3-way switch on the right completely, leaving only the 3-way and 4-way switches on the left.


texts: What size expansion gap should I leave between my wall a hardwood floating floor?

texts:
How much space to leave between wall and hardwood floating floor? This is a unique floor. Each board is solid bamboo (never thought I'd say that) but they snap together the same way that an engineered wood floor does. This is still a floating floor though, each piece is just much heavier since it's solid.

I'm wondering how much of an expansion gap I should leave between my wall? I've read anywhere from a 1/4" (on each side for a total of 1/2") or 1/2" (on each side for a total of 1"). As part of that, should the moisture barrier go all the way to the wall or should I keep that the same distance from the wall as the wood/bamboo?


texts:
I am removing vinyl flooring with cork tiles underneath and noticed some green bits under the floor. Can this be asbestos?

This flat was built in 1988 and I bought it this year


texts:
I am curious when a surface should be reprimed (if ever) vs just repainted. Are there any general guidelines? If it is badly stained, should I reprime or use some stain blocker?
Please consider this picture of a 30 year old casement window (wood). I stripped some paint from the trim around it and the stripper got on the window + just regular grime settlement over the years. I would like to repaint white semigloss but am not sure if I need to reprime first to block the ugly stains.


texts: Adding recessed lighting to ceiling fan switch

texts:
I currently have a single ceiling fan controller by two light switches (at the same location), one for light on fan, one for fan only, or Both switched on for light and fan. I replaced my fan with a light to a fan without a light. It has 14/3 wire.
My question is what is the best way to install 2 led recessed lights?
The attic is narrow but assuming I can get to the ceiling box in the attic. Can I run 14/2 romex from the ceiling fan junction box to recessed lights? Wire white to white, black to red (Assuming fan is off black), ground to ground and do the same at my recessed lights?
And if I didn’t want to tap into the ceiling fan Or can’t reach it can I just run 14/2 from the new recessed lights to my current light switch box on the wall, into a new light switch then pig tale to main power line?


texts: adding new circuit to generator subpanel without a ground bar

texts:
I have a main Square D panel with a post-installed Generac (Siemens) subpanel with automatic transfer switch to standby generator. I want to add a new 15A circuit to the subpanel so I can move a second refrigerator to a different room (no change in generator load, just shifting some to the new circuit). The subpanel has no ground bar. All the existing circuits in the subpanel are grounded through the main panel. How do I ground the new circuit properly?

Added 6/23/2020:
All circuits in the transfer switch subpanel were previously in the main and "moved" to the subpanel. To be clear, I want to add a brand new circuit in the subpanel so the standby generator could power it as necessary. I would replace a single 15A breaker with a tandem 15A breaker to accommodate the new circuit. An example of a tandem breaker is in the lower left of the subpanel.
NOTE: I do not see any available knockouts in the subpanel nor do I see where a ground bus would be installed (e.g. predrilled mounting holes). So is this panel even designed for what I want to do? If not, it seems shortsighted on Generac's part.
I am uploading additional pictures as requested.
The aluminum cable is the ground for the generator. The is connection is highlighted. The green cable feeds back to the ground bus in the main. This connection appears to be mounted directly on the subpanel box.

Overview with subpanel on left transfer switch on top. The main is on right, including conduit connection

Subpanel detail showing nuetral bus

Subpanel detail showing where I would think ground bus would normally be installed

Added 06/24/2020:
Subpanel labels

Added 06/26/2020
Transfer switch label


texts:
I have this box on the side of my house that powers my hottub.

Is it possible (without violating typical code) to add a 15 amp 110 breaker in this box with intention of powering a small (1/3 HP) sump pump.

The sump pump is not critical to keeping my home dry.  I am just drying up a spot in my yard that is always a bit wet.

[EDIT] It is a 60amp breaker in the main panel feeding this box and there is a 60amp breaker in this box.  It services a hot tub.


texts: How do you reduce floor sound transmission?

texts: How do you reduce the sound transmission through a floor? Using "green glue" between a couple layers of plywood subfloor seems to work well. Are there any other tricks or suggestions?


texts: Do I need to trim the dishwasher drain line to prevent water build-up from the disposal? Also are elbows OK here?

texts:
We replaced the sink recently, which required taking off the disposal and installing it on the new sink, and also re-doing the plumbing since the new sink's drain would be further back than the previous one.

For maybe two days we had everything hooked up except for the dishwasher drain line to the disposal, which required a part that was in an unexpected part of my local HD store...so I finally got it on my third trip there.

Anyway, I installed the Insinkerator drain coupler which is a rubber reducer going from the dishwasher outlet on the disposal, to the DW drain line. Two questions:

(1) My DW drain line is really long. Currently, it goes from a hole near the bottom of the sink cabinet, up to a clamp beneath the counter (high loop), but then there's enough excess for it to go all the way down to the sink cabinet floor, then back up to the disposal. When we temporarily had everything attached except this connection, we discovered that, past some level of water (collecting in the disposal before draining), water could back up out of the disposal and spill out at the DW connection. This makes me fear that water will come out of the disposal and could take up the long "low" loop that goes down to the floor and then back up to the clamp under the sink. Any down sides to this? Should I cut it shorter?

(2) We installed the sink in a corner cabinet, and the cabinet is designed so that instead of going all the way back into the corner, it's cut off, making a 90-45-45 triangle of wasted space. As a result, quarters are close, and the DW drain line connection to the disposal is cramped. Should I install some sort of elbow in between? Right now it's a rubber reducer connected to a rubber DW hose on one side, and the plastic disposal outlet on the other. I don't like clamping rubber to rubber, so maybe a plastic or metal elbow would be good...thoughts?

Thanks in advance!


texts: How do I add a receptacle outside off the porch light

texts: I put in a gazebo in the back of the house and I want to install a receptacle from the only electrical source which is a porch light. I could just run some wire thru the base of the light and run it to the receptacle but it looks very cheesy. Is there a type of box or extender I could use to make up to code and look like it was done right


texts: I have a 10ft wall that spans only a third of the width of the house but is perpendicular to the 20' long 2x10s below it. One end of the wall could transfer load to the foundational wall but the rest is out over the joists with no columns or supports below. This 20' span has a beam 3' from the foundational wall and spans 15' to the next carry beam. Functionally, this wall could offer support for the floor (2x10 joists as well) of the dormer above but it only spans 2/3 the width of said dormer. It has no wall below nor directly above and the studs do not line up with any of the joists below. There's nothing special about the framing either, no double plates or studs. Any insight?


texts: Why won't my Heil 7000 natural gas furnace ignite?

texts:
I have a Heil 7000 gas furnace

Model: NUGK100DH12
Serial: L933050100

When we turn it on at the thermostat, the exhaust blower will kick on. We checked to be sure the gas is reaching the unit and it is. It also has an electronic igniter (kind of like a glow plug) but it does not glow.


texts: What diameter should pipes from boiler to heating the hot water cylinder be - the same as the pipes used for radiators or larger ?


texts: Will prefinished Maple flooring yellow with age?

texts:
I'm considering a prefinished "natural character" Maple floor (uv aluminum oxide).

The salesman said I don't need to worry about it yellowing over time but I wanted to ask you folks.


texts: What is a good technique for cutting in when painting?

texts:
I'm going to paint another room in my house this weekend, and I have most of the prep work completed (walls cleaned, holes spackled and sanded, covers/vents removed, a few odds and ends taped off).

One thing I very distinctly remember from the last major painting job I did (I took a full week off and painted most of the rest of the house) is how incredibly painful my wrists and elbows were for a few days after painting. I am pretty sure my 'cutting in' (hand-painting corners, sills, along molding, etc.) was the culprit, because actually rolling on the paint on the larger areas was a breeze (comparatively).

What are some techniques that I can use to make cutting in easier and faster?

Narrower or wider brush? (I have a 2" brush right now)
Angled or flat brush? (I'm using an angle brush right now)
Long or short handle? (I have a long-handled brush, but sometimes I 'choke up' on it)
Should I dampen the brush before starting?
Should I mix in any paint additives? (Like Floetrol?)

I use a step stool to reach along the ceiling and higher in the corners, but everything else is easy enough to reach from the ground.


texts: changed taps and now there's no hot water

texts: We live in a detached bungalow with a combi boiler. We changed the bath and basin taps in the bathroom when we turned the water back on there's no hot water in the bathroom and no water at all in the kitchen!!!!!! can anyone help


texts: Storage racks - plastic vs Bronze inside room

texts:
I am thinking of putting storage racks in one of my carpeted room. I looked at the bronze one, big and heavy at costo and I thought they would not be suitable for placing on carpet because

They are very heavy
Design for very heavy object
Hard to move (not easy to move for family)

Their advantage are

Very sturdy
Larger size and can store more stuff
Good value for money

Which one should I consider? Esp is it ok to place this heavy weight storage racks directly on carpet in a room? Wouldn't it damage carpet?


texts: Can I add a neutral bus bar to my panel to allow more connections?

texts: I have a 200amp, 40 position but only can land 20 neutrals and 20 grounds because there aren't enough screws on the bar. I can't have 2 neutrals under the same screw. I do not have any empty spaces on neutral bus but have several double up neutrals. Can I add another neutral bus?


texts:
I have a radon system in my home with a u-tube style manometer. the reading over the past year has been almost 0*. I called the serviceman who told me it was fine as long as I could hear the fan running.
*It is not a level 0- it has always been 1-2 millimeters higher on one side.

All of my neighbors meters show a drastic level difference. Is this normal?