texts:
I have a walk-in shower, roughly 2-1/2 x 5 ft, 7ft high, with a shower-curtained opening.  The mildew problem on the grout is pretty bad.   I've seen some good articles here on controlling mildew, but I also want to install a fan.  It'd be nice to not have to mess with the tile at all, and fortunately there is a hole in the ceiling for a 6" recessed-light can.   So I'm thinking this fan would fit there nicely:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Broan-1-5-Sone-70-CFM-White-Bathroom-Fan/1242821

It is rated for wet locations, as long as protected with GFCI.  I don't think the current recessed light is GFCI protected, but I can add that easily myself.   Accessing the area above the shower is going to be somewhat of a pain, but doable, though requiring some drywall repair.

My big question is about the fan exhaust: I don't want to run it to the outside, as it's going to chill the shower significantly, I fear.  So I'm thinking about running it into the neighboring bathroom area instead (an area with a dual-basin sink vanity, which is open to the MBR) or maybe just into the bedroom itself.   Is this a horrible idea ?  I figure most of that moisture ends up in the vanity area and bedroom anyhow, so maybe not so bad.   Though the fan exhaust is necessarily going to be just below the ceiling (since the shower ceiling is only 1ft lower than the other 8ft ceilings), unless I go to some heroic measures to have the vent come out lower somewhere.   Though I'm in the humid south, the house interior tends to be pretty dry, with the AC running a lot in the summer and wood heating in the winter.

Or do I just need to bite the bullet and figure out how to vent the fan to the outside without chilling the shower too badly ?


texts:
I just moved into a house and during the first rain we had a leak coming from the bathroom vent.  The vent had been broken off above the roof, but was repaired before us moving in.  What problems could we be looking at with this leak?

Not sure if this could be a poor seal or how exactly the vent keeps rain from coming down the vent pipe in the first place?


texts: How to change the bulbs in this hanging light fixture?

texts:
There is an UN-removable circular plastic part stacked to the glass ribs that is smaller than the diameter created by the bulbs inside.  Therefore the lantern cannot slide off over the bulbs,  Nor can I reach up from underneath.

I am about to call a contractor just to change a bulb.

What kind of lantern is this? Any ideas?

How do I change the bulbs in this fixture?


texts: How can I keep a deadbolt functional in a door that moves with the seasons?

texts:
I have a garage man door that shifts so much in winter that I cannot unlock the deadbolt to open the door.
I think it shifts up due to the frost/thaw cycles during the cold winter. Everything goes back to normal by spring.
You can see by the pictures that the floor has cracked in that area as well. The floor is pushing the whole door up causing the deadbolt to be pushed right up to the top of the deadbolt strike plate.
I'm going to put in a larger hole strike plate this spring.
Does anyone have any ideas on what I could do to help reduce the amount of shift in the concrete?
Chip some of it out, throw some rebar in there and repour under the door?
Open to any ideas!


texts:
I dont even know if drain pipe is the right word. We have this little pipe jutting out of the wall in our back yard.

It keeps dripping water. Its a new unit/apartment in Australia and the builder is now no where - so we are on our own.
First we thought it was the water heaters outlet, because the builder said so. But the water dripping out is cold. Then we noticed it will only drip when our washing machine is draining its water into the trough. Clothes washed with cold water. Doesn't look like all of the water is getting out either, but only a glassfull. 1) Should we be worried about it ? 2) How do I fix it.


texts: Changing light fixture and wanting to know colour codings for cables

texts: Am about to change an old wall light fitting with a new one.  The cable coming out of wall is 3 cables, red, brown and green.  All i have read state that red and brown are both live and green is Earth.  Does that mean I donthave a neutral as my light fixture is asking for a L, N and earth.


texts: Drill Wood Block Before or After Finishing?

texts:
I have a butcher block made of birch. I need to put some wood inserts into it. Also, I want to drill a 2" through hole through it as well. My plan for the finish is a few coats of polycrylic protective finish.

Which order should I do it in? Finish first or drill first? Sorry if this is a super basic question, I am very new at this.


texts:
What is that wide-diameter fitting in my 2" PVC stack?

It's in the way of the hardwood floor and the drywall. Can it be effectively removed?


texts:
The hinges for the door to my frameless shower keeps slipping and the door keeps rubbing:

Since I'm not the one that purchased/installed the shower, I can't be absolutely certain, but I'm pretty sure the hinges being used are the ones shown here.

The only solution I've found so far is to loosen the large screws on the hinge (shown in the images linked to above), physically lift the door so it isn't hitting the shower wall any more, and tighten the screws back down. But I've ended up doing this about every month now since moving into the house because no matter how tight I try to get the screws, the door keeps slipping. As a result, the screw heads are starting to get chewed up. Maybe I'm not tightening the screws sufficiently, but they're as tight as I can get them with a hand-held screw driver, and I'm afraid that if I over-tighten (by using a power drill) them I'll break the glass door.

Is there a better solution to keep the door aligned properly? Do I need to get different hinges? If so, can you recommend which ones I should get?


texts: Termite inspection and finished basement ceiling

texts:
I have termites in my yard, not too far from my house.  (Locale:  Massachusetts, USA.)  So I want to get an inspection and treatment.  (The house was built in 1937; I bought it in 2014, and as usual with these things there's no record of when it was last inspected/treated.)

I know little about these things, but I would assume that the inspector would want to look at the joists in the basement ceiling, since that's where there's a lot of wood.  But at some point in the home's history some genius decided it would be a good idea to finish the ceiling with plaster over metal mesh.

Am I incorrect that those joists need to be exposed for a thorough termite inspection?


texts: Insulating attic ceiling and looking for synthetic t&g ceiling boards

texts:
We have a 3/4 upper floor room that is in desperate need of a complete overhaul.

The current ceiling consists of 2x4 ceiling rafters with a foam vent and perhaps 2.5" of foam insulation, then the drywall. Needless to say, in the summer it can get unbearably hot without AC and in the winter, cold (though given our snow here in MN, winter cold is less of an issue than the summer heat).

I'm ripping out carpet and fixture and everything for a remodel and figured now is the time to try and help with the insulation a bit. As always, I'm trying to do it on a budget as well. ;)

My thoughts/questions:

1) tear down the drywall, apply more foam insulation on the under-side, then re-finish. I actually stumbled upon a tutorial of exactly that:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/energy/insulation/ceiling_sloped/rigid_foam.htm

Thoughts about that? Any pros/cons I may be missing?

If I do go that route, I'd like to minimize the space I eat up, but still provide insulation of value. Would 3/4" suffice? I was going to go with XPS. Should I also get foil faced boards? If so, which way would they face? (I'm thinking 'up' to reflect summer heat).

2) I dread hauling sheetrock back up into this space. It's big, heavy, and we have an extremely narrow stair case (not to mention our house is 12 steps above the sidewalk). When I finished our basement, I used synthetic boards for all my trim. This is the PVC foam boards that are pre-finished. They are easy to cut and extremely light. Plus, they are prefinished.

An added bonus for the basement is that they are moisture proof (the main reason I chose them. An added bonus for the attic (I think) is that (in theory) they'd provide another layer of insulation. Is that a valid theory?

Either way, anyone aware of some nice(ish) looking tounge and groove synthetic ceiling boards? I found one that was a fake cypress wood finish. I'd really prefer white. Whether is has a woodgrain texture or not is less of an issue.

UPDATE (couple more questions...)

3) Even if I find the foam-board paneling, it may be quite expensive. I'm also thinking about using pine planks (the T&G boards with a v-groove down the center to make it appear as two boards). That'd be cheaper. Anyone use that before? Pros/cons? How well would it take paint?


texts: Can I run CAT5 cables parallel to low voltage (9v) power cables?

texts:
The answers to this question clearly state that low voltage and high voltage cables should be kept separate; does this apply to low voltage (9v) power cables and CAT5?

The problem: I would like to extend Wi-Fi coverage in my house by using a range extender, the unit is powered by a low voltage (9v) adapter rated at 0.6A. I would like to run the cable for this unit in parallel to the CAT5 cable over a distance of approx 15m, surface mounted in PVC trunking. Will this cause any problems?


texts: What's the proper procedure for replacing ungrounded circuits?

texts:
I have a house that has several ungrounded circuits that uses the older 2 wire romex (pvc insulation, black woven jacket).

I'd love to have AFCI protected circuits for the bedrooms, and grounded outlets for some other rooms, but I don't want to have somebody rip the old cable that runs horizontally between the outlet boxes (also don't want to attempt that myself).

Would this be a proper procedure for replacing ungrounded circuits?
I was thinking something like:

Disconnect old circuit
Take out old boxes, put bigger rework boxes in (current boxes are small)
Drill new hole up from basement under boxes
Fish wire up, secure in box with tab/clamp and with staple in basement*
Connect each outlet run for the room together with a junction box*
Run to panel*

*Assuming proper support according to 334.30

I also had a question with regards to NEC 334.30(B)(2):

  334.30 Securing and Supporting Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or
  similar ﬁttings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable,
  at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 1⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.)
  of every outlet box. junction box, cabinet, or ﬁtting. Flat cables
  shall not be stapled on edge. Sections of cable protected from
  physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within
  the raceway.

  (A) Horizontal Runs Through Holes and Notches. In other than
  vertical runs, cables  installed in accordance with 300.4 shall be
  considered to be supported and secured where such support does not
  exceed 1.4-m (4 1⁄2-ft) intervals and the nonmetallic-sheathed cable
  is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12
  in.) of each box, cabinet, conduit body, or other nonmetallicsheathed
  cable termination.

  FPN: See 314.17(C) for support where nonmetallic boxes are used

  (B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable:

  (1) Is ﬁshed between access points through concealed spaces in ﬁnished
  buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable.

  (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable
  support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece of
  electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are within
  an accessible ceiling

Does 334.30(B) allow for this type of installation?
Would 334.30(B) allow for a fished dropwire from an attic, with an unsupported vertical "run" of more than 4.5 feet down to an outlet box?


texts: I want to drill into a outside house wall to mount one end of a pull-up bar. The other end will be drilled and mounted into a cinder block wall. For the outside house wall, I’ve thought about drilling at the corner, cause I think that is where the most support will be. Is there any reason I shouldn’t do this? Anything I need to consider?


texts: Making piping easily accessible inside shower

texts:
A plumber has just repaired a leak in my shower tap pipes. To do this he had to smash out tiles from the shower wall, and now I am left with a big hole to repair:

I could re-tile this hole but if I need to access the pipes again then its such a pain to go through this process again. So I was wondering if there are any watertight panel-type products which can cover the pipes and taps but can be easily removed for access?

I have seen access panels in drywalls on the other side of a shower wall, but my shower is up against the edge of the house (indoors) so I guess that is not an option. I thought about custom making a metal or plastic panel with quarter-turn latches to hold it tightly against the wall but I'm worried that it might not seal properly.


texts: I am just wondering what the advantage of self-tapping screws would be as compared to normal screws. Does it fasten more strongly? I know, with most self-tapping screws, pre-drilling can be skipped. Is this the only advantage? Or, is there any other advantage?


texts: My detached garage was rebuilt in 2015, and 2 of the walls have metal braces with kerfs cut into the studs. The walls are sheathed with tongue and groove. The wall in the picture is 2x4’s 24” on center, with one of the studs sistered. Are these braces structural or were they temporary during the rebuild? I’m in the process of insulating my garage and these braces are keep me from touching thoseb2 wallls. I don’t want to place insulation because the braces will compress it, reducing the r-value. Thanks in advance.


texts: Is this normal? Cabinet/Backsplash install

texts:
We hired a contractor for our kitchen but are doing our own bathroom.

The contractor installed the wall cabinets directly on concrete and the base cabinets on top of ungrouted tile.

The contractor has cut pieces of drywall and adhered them to the exposed parts of the concrete that the backsplash will go onto. Is this normal? The drywall is not blue drywall and about 1/2 inch think. It covers part of the quartz counter top, the outlets sink in slightly (since they are behind the drywall).

Is the drywall solution normal since the cabinets are on concrete? I’ve never seen this before.


texts:
I'm considering getting an evaporative humidifier for my super-dry Northeast house, but I'm wondering if the evaporation cools off the room and is going to add to my heating bill.

It seems like evaporative humidifier work exactly the same was as evaporative air conditioners — i.e. blowing dry air across water to cause evaporation, thus transferring the heat of the air into water vapor's latent heat.

Am I wrong about the thermodynamics? Or is the effect small enough that it doesn't make much difference?


texts: Properly flashing ledger board for pergola or overhanging patio roof

texts:
I am wanting to build a roof over our west facing patio to help with the heat of the day. I was thinking either a pergola type structure with a roof on it, or just an overhang. The structure will attach to the 1st floor of the house, directly beneath where the 2nd story of the house sticks out about 20 inches. This overhanging 20 inches will cover the entire length of the ledger board.
The problem is, when the house was initially built it was not code to have a house wrap. When I remove the vinyl siding, there will be nothing but wood there. How should I properly flash this?
In addition, what is the correct way to attach an angled joist to the ledger board? The roof will be slanting down.

Thanks!


texts: I’m trying to install a wall outlet where 3 Romex cables meet and are twisted together. Which goes where?

texts:
I’m trying to install an outlet in this junction box I found hidden behind a smoke detector. Inside is what looks like 3 70’s era Romex cables all twisted together by color. (3 blacks 3 whites and the grounds have a weird clamp holding them together.)
There is a light switch directly below this, which is where I think Romex Green probably goes to.
Can someone tell me how I’d wire an outlet with a setup like this?
Should I pull this metal thing off that’s holding all the grounds together?
Should I try and pigtail from each twisted connection to the outlet?


texts: How can I retrofit this existing wall-heater with an external thermostat?

texts:
My house has several wall-mounted gas heaters.
All but one of them have external, easily accessible thermostats. However, the one that happens to be the most used has no remotely mounted thermostat, to change the temperature you have to open the cover at the base, and adjust a knob at the base of the heater.
Is there any way to retrofit this heater with a simple remote thermostat? Ideally, I'd like something really simple. All the other heaters I have just use contact-closure (e.g. 2 wire, I think) thermostats, not the programmable electronic kinds, and that's all I really want for this heater too.
The heater doesn't currently have any connections for electrical, so an Ideal solution would not require any electrical power. However, I'm not sure if this is possible. I can run power to the heater if I have to, but I'd sure like to avoid any drywall work.
Heater pictures:

Edit - More Information:
The whole burner assembly is completely separate from the actual heater. It looks like the whole burner, with valve assembly, can be separated from the heater with the removal of just two screws.
Anyways, the heater model is a Williams 35 GV-C-5T NAT (I think. See picture):

The burner assembly and valve is a RobertShaw Grayson 7000 SRLC:

Of note is that on the instruction plates in the heater, there are several diagrams that show a similar valve that supports a remote thermostat:

However, in both cases, the images are for a 7000 M VRLC or M VRCLC, while the heater I have is a S RLC.


texts: Why did my freezer stop freezing after being unplugged for several days?

texts: We lost our electricity for about a week.  I unplugged the upright freezer so it wouldn't get a surge when power came back on.  Food removed, no ice build up.  When I plugged it back in it chilled nicely, but didn't freeze.  What kind of problem am I looking at?


texts: How can install rafter baffle venting without removing drywall?

texts:
I have a finished attic, that needs to be updated. The pitched sides of the roof are sheetrocked & insulated, the ceiling is a suspended ceiling (will be sheetrocked) and the low knee walls are insulated and paneled (will be sheetrocked).

The pitched ceiling does not have rafter baffle venting. It does have continuous soffit vents, a full length ridge vent and a gable vent. I realize it's best if the soffit vents have air movement up to the ridge vent, however I'd like to avoid ripping out the sheetrock and insulation on the pitched ceiling.

Is there an alternative to the standard rafter venting that can be installed on old versus new construction?


texts: Do these swamp cooler pads need replacement or cleaned?

texts:
I know these pads are at least 4 summers old, but not sure how old exactly. As I was shutting the swamp cooler down for the winter, I saw that they seemed really dirty. The white material flakes of really easy.

I don't know if I need to clean them or actually replace them?


texts: New downpipe installed outside bedroom window so when it rains there is a constant loud pinging noise as rain hits it, any ideas to stop this?


texts:
I opened an electrical box today to a bit of a surprise - a little bit of exposed conductor on one of the wires!  As far as I can tell, there is no damage to the conductor (12 gauge).  Note that this is for a 240 volt line voltage thermostat.

Is it acceptable to wrap this wire with electrical tape and call it good?  A few notes to help complicate this:

This is 12 gauge wire and quite stiff, it looks like it has been twisted and untwisted several times already
This is inside a gang box so I don't see any easy way to "add a junction box" which seems to be the normal answer - and I wouldn't want to add a blank cover junction box right below this, it would look awful
I'm pretty certain that I wouldn't have enough wire to work with if I trimmed it right behind the knick - this wire connects to a wire nut with 3 total wires when complete
I can't easily remove this cable and fish a new one as it is a long run of wire and is stapled behind the dry wall (this is on the cable from the breaker)
This is a full junction box already, so I don't really have room to be adding some fancy (read: big) specialty splice piece

All kinds of fun.  Seems to me like the only "easy" way to fix it would be with electrical tape.  However, having it totally safe and up to code/regulations is most important to me, so if electrical tape won't cut it then I'll probably have to get an electrical to do something (not sure what).  If it matters, I'm in WA, USA.  Thanks for the help!


texts: Safety cover for exposed brick exhaust inside a bedroom

texts:
My husband and I just purchased a 95 year old Dutch Colonial with an old brick stack now being used to exhaust the gas furnace. The brick is exposed in one of the upstairs bedrooms which currently belongs to our oldest son who is disabled with autism. We are concerned for safety with both our two year old son and our oldest who is six. We are trying to cover the brick with something to prevent injury in case of a fall. We tried industrial Velcro attached to the brick and to thick yoga mat material but the adhesive on the velcro came off within 24 hours as the brick heated and cooled. What can we cover the brick with? It's two sides of the exhaust stack, each side is roughly six foot high and sixteen inches from corner to where it meets the wall. [We only need half the height covered]
Is there something that is safe to put over the warming brick that could pad it? Furthermore, is there a way to insulate it so that it stops overheating our son's room with extra radiant heat? Our top priority here is safety padding, but the heat barrier would be a plus.


texts: transitioning from 16" diameter duct to rectangular return for A/C

texts: Is there such a thing as a prefab box made of sheet-metal which is designed to fit between standard floor joists set at 16" o.c., with a round port, so that it can transition to 16" round duct up in the attic?


texts: I want to connect one outdoor stove and one grill to the gas line in my backyard . Could I put the Y connector after the gas regulator?

texts: Proper gas connection - trying to avoid putting two gas regulators.


texts:
I want to run network cable into a bedroom and was going to use one of those Low Voltage Wall plate
and cat 5E wall plate over it. While trying to install low voltage wall plate, instead of tracing inner sides I traced outer sides and cut a wider hole than I needed. What are my options to installing wall plate. I was considering attaching wall plate to drywall cut edges using screws. Would that work ? There is also a stud to the right side of the hole. Not sure if I can use that in some way to fix the hole. Here is the picture of what I am talking about.

Finished Job


texts: how water cylinder + leaking overflow + dripping not flowing

texts:
I had a leaking overflow pipe from my hot water cylinder. I had the pressure relief valve replaced(?), the valve that takes the mains pressure and reduces the pressure before feeding it into mains pressure cylinder.

It is still leaking, but is a hell of a lot better. Plumber has said that it is supposed to drip but not run. I did a rough measure and it filled up a small cup over night.

Can anyone advise?

EDIT 1
I have since had the pressure relief valve replaced, but still the same dripping.

Reading here
http://www.plumber-auckland.co.nz/Services/hotwater/FAQ+about+hot+water.html

  If the overflow is dripping this is most likely normal expansion, that
  occurs when a hot water cylinder is in a heating cycle. It is normal
  for a 135L cylinder to expand up to three and a half litres of water
  in a heating cycle.

So it could be normal expansion. The way I understand this is that if the cylinder is filled up with cold water, it come to a point where it is full and no more water will get in. But then as the water gradually heats up the pressure increases so the pressure relief vavle will kick in and slowly release water to reduce the pressure. This I think is what I am seeing with mine

The question is how do i confirm this?
In theory if the HWC is filled up and heated completely, then if no hot taps are turned on over a period then the HWC should not drip.

If hot water taps are turned on then the HWC will fill up.  the HWC will then have to heat this new cold water up again. So you might get some dripping in this example. I guess it depend how long the hot taps were run for or how much water the HWC released.


texts: mud keeps drying and crumbling as i spread it on wall

texts: i have mixed mud as close as possible to the correct consistency of cake frosting, and have studied many you tube videos to see what the pros do, but every time i apply the mud it seems to dry and crumble as i spread it with a taping knife. then the only way i can smooth it out is by brushing over it with a wet brush, otherwise it becomes stiff and hard to spread on wall. if i force it it starts to tear and dry. if i mix it to the same consistency as those on you tube, why does it become dry and stiff as i use it. when i see it done on you tube, they seem to spread it like cream on the wall, never drying out, almost like they have added oil to the mud. what can i do to make it smooth on easily. i have resorted to wetting the wall before applying it, but i find that this just washes away any previous layer of mud i added.


texts:
How are mixing valves installed? Do they affect just the hot water line?

So my basic understanding is that the valve connects inlet to hot and cold, but outputs only hot and you set it to your desired temperature and GPM.

So, for example, if you set it to 120F, then the water in the hot line will always be 120F, in theory.

However, when I take showers I find that as the shower goes on I have to adjust the hot-cold balance constantly. So, does this mean that as the temperature from the tank goes down, the GPM from the hot goes down so the overall water stream cools?


texts: Is it legal to connect a combi expansion pipe to a drainpipe?

texts:
Is it legal to install a combi boiler in a cupboard in a bedroom and connect the expansion pipe to a cast iron drainpipe? The person who has done it ownes one of the four flats in our house. Recently during heavy rainfall a back-up occurred and water from the drainpipe entered his boiler. The boiler burst and water entered both his flat and the one below his.
Who is liable for the burst boiler and water damage?

He has now disconnected his expansion pipe and an ugly pipe projects from the house wall. I am afraid it may be dangers in the event of boiling water projecting onto a nearby path. Is it possible to have it inspected and if so by whom? I would be very grateful for any advice.


texts: What wire size should I use to repair a circuit containing some #12 and some of unknown size?

texts:
I need to replace the cables in one room which has many outlets. Currently the older wiring is labeled 12/2 WG. There is another wire also white (back when) right along side but it doesn't say what gauge it is.  Should I replace all with 12/2?

One has to be fished through to the 1/2 bath and is right on the edge of the outside wall.  Eek. They all worked fine until a laborer cut through two of them. I am not afraid to do the wiring as long as I am sure that they are both 12/2 gauge.


texts: Do you need a special type of screw to mount a NEMA 3R box?

texts:
I need to mount a NEMA 3R Meter base and panel on a temp pole. There are screw knockouts on the back of the panels, but is there something that needs to be done to stop water from coming in the screw holes once they are opened?

I was considering using decking screws since they are water resistant and have decent shear strength. Is that OK? Do I need rubber washer or caulk or something on the screws/holes to keep the water out?

This will be inspected. NEC 2014.


texts: 12/3 cable coming from box, is this correct?

texts:
I have the following junction box:

The cable coming from the left is from the fuse box, it's 12/3 (aluminum). The cable going straight down is going to a switch (it's 12/2, aluminum). The other cable going down and curving slightly to the right is going to a light fixture (14/2 copper). The cable going up is also going to a light fixture (14/2 copper). The cable going to the right is carrying power to another room (12/2 aluminum).
So there's essentially one X/3 coming in, and four X/2 going out. The aluminum to copper needs to be property pigtailed with a purple wire nut (which is accepted here). Let's ignore that issue for now; I'm trying to understand if my assumptions about this setup are correct and why it might have been set up this way.
Here is a drawing I made of the wiring (I omitted the other lights, as they are just pigtailed together):

(B = black wire, W = white wire, R = red wire)
When I open the switch, the lights turn off, as expected, and voltage drops to 0 on the red wire (R) coming from the fuse box. The black wire going to the other room remains live.
When I close the switch, the lights turn back on, and there is now 120 volts on the red wire (R) going to the fuse box. The wires going to the other room remain live, of course.
Now, I'm assuming that the 12/3 cable is the one delivering power to this circuit, and is coming from the fuse box. The white wire is shared common for the lights and the other room. Which makes it seem like the red wire is useless. Does this seem correct?

To me, it seems the 14/2 wires were retrofitted into this box to add additional lights, and originally this junction box was the one that had a light attached to it. Which makes me think that the red wire from the fuse box should be used as the neutral/return for the lights; so the lights and the other room both share power from the same black from the 12/3, but return power on the other two wires, separate from each other.

UPDATE: After reading the comments and answer and looking around a bit more, it seems the 12/3 cable probably terminates in this junction box (and the red cable isn't attached to a load):


texts:
It seems a bit of excess cement or grout have mixed with water and stained my bathroom tiles. Tried soaking it / rubbing it with cleaning vinegar but to no avail.

Ideas?


texts: How can I prevent the blocking between my deck joists from making noise under foot traffic?

texts:
Framing new deck 2x8x10 PT lumber.
Used solid blocking bridging and just walking across mid span the blocks POP.
All blocks were hand nailed with 12d common
Galv.   When noticed popping went back and screwed with 4 inch epoxy coated screws
Without much help ( decking is not installed yet )
Might try timber framing screws.


texts: How to fasten rotating pieces without self-tightening (or loosening)?

texts:
I'm trying to make a "slider crank" mechanism for cheap out of 1/4" x 1.5" aluminum, where all the movement is in the xy-plane (parallel to the ground). Total linear movement is ~6 inches. Not my diagram, but essentially this:

I've seen plenty of examples all over the place, but I'm unclear how to robustly make joints (looks like they're labeled B and C in the diagram). I've tried something like this:

but with the continuous rotation the nut eventually loosens or tightens, depending on the orientation/direction of rotation. With the same thing oriented vertically (e.g. think scissor lift or articulated lamp), it seems much simpler as the weight bears on a connecting shaft, so as long as friction is low enough everything works fine, but I cannot change the orientation.

Accepting that I can cut/drill the aluminum to suit, are there things I can get at a regular North American hardware store to make this work (ideally for < 20$ for all connecting hardware)?


texts: I bought a home with an in law apt that has its own septic in the back of the house. The rest of the house has the plumbing and septic in the front. There is no stink pipe. I don't know how they did it without a stack. Is my only option now is to go through floors and ceilings from the basement and through the roof? Not sure where the smell is coming from. I know its not the kitchen sink. The bathroom is very small and the smell is not overpowering but certainly there. I've stuck my nose against the shower drain and hand sink drain but cant really detect the odor. I will be removing all the floors and walls as I remodel and will have a better idea of how all this is plumbed. Right now it looks like the kitchen sink and bathroom sink drain into  the line running from the shower and into the main drain from the toilet and then straight outside to the septic system. Im amazed it is working at all. I'm just trying to figure out how much to budget to fix it. Hoping that I don't have to go inside the house against the outside wall all the way to the roof. The upstairs has already been remodeled


texts:
I’m installing a new WiFi thermostat that needs the c wire.  I ended up running new thermostat wires that contained the common wire but now I’m stuck on where to connect it to the furnace.

Can someone take a look at the wiring diagram to help me figure out if I have a place on my furnace to connect the c wire?


texts: How to deal with lath and plaster over top plate of partition wall?

texts:
I'm renovating a bathroom, and there was lath and plaster on one wall and in the ceiling, which I have ripped out. The problem is that the room was not originally a bathroom, but a bigger room that had been partitioned to form a bathroom and a hallway. The partition wall was put in without removing the lath and plaster underneath it (see pictures). In order to get rid of all the lath and plaster, I would have to dismantle the wall... which would mean renovating 2 rooms - bathroom AND hallway, which I want to avoid doing.

I plan to re-do the walls in the bathroom with mold resistant drywall. So how would I do this? I'm guessing that I should cut (with a recip saw?) the lath as close the partition wall as possible, then add furring strips to the studs and ceiling joists to push the drywall past the level of the lath and plaster. But this is only guesswork.

Any help appreciated.


texts: I have tried unscrewing the top four screws and the bottoms four. I have no ideas left on how to take the glass off eithlut basically completely disassembling the fan.


texts: How can I achieve a straight ridge line when taping a vaulted ceiling?

texts:
I was just wondering if there are any tricks (special techniques) to taping a vaulted ceiling which is very high, like 16 feet?  I think it's too high for stilts.
It's new construction on a small house we've been building for ourselves.  I just finished putting up the drywall.  I have a scaffold which lets me access a very small portion of the ceiling at a time, but it is going to be difficult to do long runs.  Do you use a chalk line to make sure these lines are straight, for instance, when you can only do an inner corner maybe 6-8 ft at a time?  Or do you do long runs while getting on and off the scaffold moving it around quickly?


texts: Will closing the ventilation windows in my garage cause problems for my water heater?

texts: I have a room directly above my garage and it's usually 10+ degrees difference in temperature compared to the rest of the house.  I'm planning on insulating the door and the garage ceiling with rigid insulation boards.  I have been reading prior suggestions and I see that most also suggest to close up the ventilation windows in the garage. However, I have my water heater in the garage so I'm thinking that's the reason for the ventilation windows.  If I close them up, will that be a problem?


texts:
Recent winds in the UK had blown the roof off my shed. It look like it has opened from the beam. I have claim insurance on it but for the time being I had put carpet on the roof but it keeps blowing off because of the wind.

What can I do as a temporary fix so my things don't wet?


texts: A two light outdoor flood light fixture has stopped working.  I have replaced the bulbs, checked the circuit breaker, the GFI, the switch (including bypassing the switch).  I have also checked for electricity inside the box to which the fixture is attached.  No current is present in the box, even with the switch on.  Any additional suggestions to try?


texts: Are patch panels essential to a home network closet?

texts:
I am completing my home remodel and have decided to wire CAT6 cables throughout the house with at least 2 sockets for the wall jacks in each room.

My subcontractor has already wired all of the rooms and we are in the process of finalizing the network closet.

My subcontractor is saying that I do not need to use a patch panel; but he is leaving me the final say in the matter. I am leaning towards using the patch panel but I also have several questions:

Am I going overboard by using a patch panel for my home? Or will it save a few headaches in the future if I need to modify my home network closet?
If I do, in fact use both the patch panel and switch - are there any helpful guides that diagram how the modem and router connects to the patch panel and switch? I want to ensure I have the proper setup to double check my subcontractor's work.

I purchased:

Cable Matters 24 Port Cat6a Shielded Patch Panel (link)
TP Link TL-SG1024 10/100/1000Mbps 24-Port Gigabit 19-inch Rackmountable Switch, 48Gbps Capacity (link)

I currently have and plan to use:

ASUS (RT-AC68U) Wireless-AC1900 Dual-Band Gigabit Router (for misc iPads)
ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem. My ISP is Time Warner Cable @ 300 mbs DL

Thank you.


texts: Will electric in-floor heat be adequate in a converted barn?

texts:
I'm thinking of buying a single-level barn conversion. It doesn't have any gas supply & has electric underfloor heating installed without any other heat source. As far as I'm aware it's installed throughout the building. It was renovated no more than 2 years ago so will be insulated to modern standards.

Will this be sufficient to heat the building if it's particularly cold? I'm in Hertfordshire, England.


texts: I have a slight leak between the hose and where it connects with the reel. I hand tightened it as much as I could but it still leaks. Pliers will not fit inside. I removed the reel and tried to tighten the connection from the top but that didn't work either. Any tips on how I can tighten? Thanks.


texts: Painting the old utility stairs to the basement

texts: So the stairs to my basement(like most others) are not made of any nice lumber. It’s just 2x10s for treads and something like 1x6 for risers. No rounded over edge of the treads or anything. Where the treads meet the stringers some pretty significant gaps were there and so someone a long time ago packed mortar in the gaps and the painted them over with the old lead based paint. I finished my basement and the last thing I want to do is paint the steps. Being that they were just made out of some kind of pine lumber they have a pretty rough looking surface from the knots and various gouges over the years. I want to essentially skim coat the treads with thin set mortar so I have a nice smooth surface to paint. Anyone every heard of doing that and if so does it hold adhesion under the weight of constant footsteps up and down?


texts: Would connecting an ungrounded cable to a new grounded cable in a box violate code?

texts:
A wire in my garage got damaged. Breaker is off now. The wire feeds the stove on the other side of a split level home. It is an old cloth covered wire, with no ground. Red, white, and black wires only.

I am going to get my brother (power company senior tech) to assist me in a solution, but want to get my head around it before breaking it to him.

The plan: The wire coming from the panel box is just too short to tie back into. I want to run a length of 6/3 cable (w/ ground) to an exposed 4-11/16 x 2-1/8 square junction box mounted in the ceiling (joist). Bring the new cable and old still running to the stove wire into the box. Use 3 appropriate Polaris connectors to complete the circuit.

My question....what do I do with the ground wire on the cable? The box should be grounded, yes? Can/should I ground the box? Would doing so be a code violation? What is the best solution other than the impossible task of running cable all the way to my kitchen?


texts: Drilling in the wall, encountered metal too soon

texts:
I was trying to mount a tv support in the wall that separates the kitchen from the living room (from the living room side, and do note that the sink and the stove are on another wall, parallel to this one).

I checked with the Bosch gms120 that there wasn't anything wrong. It was yellow-ish, meaning that there could be metal traces or metal deep down in the wall. However, since I didn't need to drill very deep, I proceeded.

After a few millimeters, the drill started sounding like it hit some metal thing, so I stopped and checked.

Double checked with the detector, and still yellow, like there is almost nothing.

What is that thing in the wall? The whole area around it (in a 15 cm radius) is yellow, with some parts in red far from where I drilled.

EDIT: Yellow and red are the colours displayed by the detector for "there may be some metal deep down" and "there is metal close, do not drill here". I live in Sweden, forgot to mention. The wallpaper is fibrous, not the wall, that seems to me concrete. On the other side of the wall there shouldn't be anything, I can't check since there is heavy furniture covering the wall in that spot.


texts: Can a smart switch work as a conventional switch?

texts:
Sorry for a silly question but I am very limited in my electrical knowledge. We have recently moved into a new house in Australia equipped with a control system for the lighting and heating. All the light switches are of the smart type of course but I doubt long term I will want to persist with the smart system.

So my question comes in two parts:

1) If the control box is eventually removed would the smart switches continue to operate OK if used as normal manual switches? I realise things like timing and programming would not work -- but I just want to be able to turn the lights on and off!

2) If the answer to 1 is 'no' could I then replace the smart switches by standard conventional switches thereby making my house "non smart"?

Any help gratefully received

Thank you
Andrew


texts: What temperature should I set my water heater to?

texts:
When adjusting my water heater, what temperature should I set it to? Is the answer different if you have:

Concerns about diseases
A dishwasher
Young children or elderly that can be easily burned
Electric vs Gas heat
Type of plumbing (e.g. PEX or Copper)

Also, is there a preferred technique to check the temperature of the water after adjusting it?


texts: Wall paint bubbling on edge of window from lack of insulation, how to fix?

texts:
Window and walls were done only a month ago. The only time it rained was once this week. What are these big blobs and could it be because of the light rain? Should I leave them or fix? Could it be because the window is pressed on the wall too much? I cant pop it with my fingers, and they not that squishy, the bubbled area is intact.

The bubbles right below the window rubber seal. I can see some dirt trapped in there, probably seaped through from outside.

opposite side, exterior, there is a gap between uPVC window and concrete, thats the way it was installed. no rubber seal like in the interior side. Could that be it? Would a rubber seal prevent the moisture?

Even if i were to repaint, it would be impossible seeing that the bubbles are coming from under the window where i cant reach. I read i could use a hypodermic needle and stick glue in there to make it stick, is that true?


texts:
My goal:

Get a wall smooth enough for wallpaper without replacing the wall

My situation

I have a wall that's been patched about 100 times in the last 50 years or so. I can't say why (I live in NYC), there's zero record on what the wall has gone through, but given that it's a top floor apartment, I'll go ahead and say past roof problems caused most of the damage, the rest would've been the work of previous tenants. The wall is made up of what looks and feels like a sandy plaster/mortar mix or old cement board (Can't confirm lathing but some areas might have a steel diamond mesh lathe) under drywall.

My idea:

The only way I can think of fixing this without completely redoing the wall (trying to avoid garnering any/much attention from the landlord or going through the next 3 months with management just for approval) is to chisel the really bad parts off either with a normal chisel tool, or use a saw blade or spiral drill bit if it takes too long (Whichever turns out works best), then follow the same process used to set veneer stone outdoors, just drywall instead of stone...

Ex:
https://youtu.be/YPfjBmjnJSE?t=234

Anyone ever gone through a situation like this? maybe you know a particular type of mortar best for this operation (if you have any suggestions other than "regular").

I've had to do some unusual restoration work in the past, but this is a first for me.


texts: Is it ok if I pass through a RJ11 (Phone line) cable outside and leave it while it is raining?

texts: I'm stupid and paranoid  but just to make sure, is it safe to leave a phone lines (rj11 I think) outside while raining, the front and end BIT is inside the house (forgot what it's called, the bit where u plug it into somethin).


texts: How would I reverse yellow stains resulting from sealing a marble table top?

texts:
I sealed a new polished marble table top with a granite sealer that also works on marble.
The discoloration is slight, but I'd like to remove it. What's the best way to do this?

I've read about "color enhancers" that accentuate color, but I'm looking for something that would reverse that effect and fade the yellow. Does something like that exist?

I've read that using bleach is not a good idea.
I'm considering sanding it at 220 grit—wise move?


texts: How can I ensure portable generator success during a long natural disaster?

texts:
I live in the SF Bay Area. My house is blocks from the Hayward Fault, where a large earthquake is likely during my lifetime. Along with the usual disaster-prep things (water, food, etc.) I'm considering buying a portable generator to power critical equipment (fridge, microwave, phone/laptop/iPad chargers, etc.) to make it easier on the family in case we have to be "off the grid" for an extended period (e.g. 1-2 weeks), either in the house if minimal structural damage, or in the back yard if not so lucky.

I've read the excellent answer on choosing an emergency generator from @Jay Bazuzi, but that answer led me to think about all the things that could go wrong with a generator: mechanical failure, out of gas, leaving it in a part of the house that collapsed in an earthquake, not having long-enough extension cords, etc.  I'm sure there are others.

What are typical portable generator problems in a post-disaster emergency situation, and what should I do ahead of time to try to prevent those problems?  Questions include (but not limited to):

assuming I don't want to store my generator in the basement of a 3-story house that might fall over, what is a good storage strategy to prevent corrosion but still allow easy access for testing/maintenance?
what kind(s) of generators are more reliable and require less maintenance than others?
what is a typical maintenance/testing regimen for a generator?
what tools and supplies should I have on hand in case a generator won't start?
how much fuel should I stockpile, and what is a reliable and safe way to store it?  Obviously this depends on usage, but assume a refrigerator 24x7 for 1 weeks plus occasional use of other low-wattage devices.
what other questions should I be asking?  any good web resources for temporarily living  off the grid in an urban/suburban area?


texts: My toilets are filling with HOT HOT Water and we have no water pressure

texts: Please help. We just rented this house and now realize why the walk through was so quick. Most important concern is that the toilets are filling with hot water!! ( In addition matter bath runs constantly, I just bought a new stopper last night, which should fix running water) we have NO WATER PRESSURE.  The owner told us as far as maintenance for us to take care of small things ourselves, but if something more serious his responsibility.


texts: Why does my breaker trip when I turn a light on?

texts:
In my bedroom I have a light wired to a plug and three receptacles.

There is nothing plugged into the receptacles but every time I turn the switch to the light on, the breaker trips.

The wiring from the light to the switch is wired correctly, and from the switch to the plugs as well.

I thought that I should switch the breaker from a standard to a GFCI breaker, but before spending that extra money and having the problem persist I'm betting that it's a short somewhere or wires touching.

Any suggestions?


texts: Is URD #4 Appropriate for 100ft run for generator hookup?

texts:
I have a remote cabin with grid electric, and I have installed a generator interlock on the panel, and a 60A input breaker. My generator is a DeWalt DXGNR7000. I am contemplating using 4/4/4/4 Aluminum URD in 1-1/2" gray PVC.
This pipe will be in the exact same trench as a HomeFlex propane line, and 10/3 UF to my shed. Both are about a 100ft run, all told.

I bumped the conductors up for safety margin and voltage drop.

Link to Generator

Link to Cable

Link to Gas Line

The generator has two independent 25A breakers on the unit for the 240V hookup. I am concerned about what may happen if just one of the breakers trips. Then only one of the phases will be killed. As of now I have no 240V loads, but ...
Should I be running that gas line alongside?
I think I should perhaps bump up the conduit to 2" and just run all the electric inside it. Is that a bad idea?


texts: How to I eliminate the smell coming from my Mitsubishi mini split units?

texts:
I have 2 Mitsubishi mini split units on the 2 additions on my house. One is a Mr. Slim Inverter and the other is an Inverter.

During the warmer months when I am running them in A/C mode, they frequently give off a pungent sour milk smell. It seems to be when it is particularly humid outside. Here's what I've tried to fix the smell.

Cleaning the removable/reusable blue plastic air filter
Pouring a cup of white vinegar over the evaporator coil
Pouring a cup of bleach over the evaporator coil
Spraying the evaporator coil with Nu Calgon Evap Cleaner
Removing an cleaning the blower wheel, drain pan and all surrounding plastic with the Nu Calgon cleaner.

These all seemed to help at first but the smell always comes back, sometimes within days. It is worth noting that the evaporator coil doesn't look particularly dirty. The drain pan was a bit funky and seemed to have a good bit of water but I checked and the drain is clearly allowing water to flow through to the outside.

Any ideas? The smell is very unpleasant and doing a number on our sinuses.


texts: What to do about gap in bottom of plasterboard wall when fitting floating floor (UK)

texts:
I have removed the skirting boards in my new build house, as I am going to fit engineered wood floor via the floating method.

The issue I have is that after removing the skirting, I was presented with these cavities at the base of the wall. They are around 2 inches wide, but vary in size around the room.

On the exterior walls there is also a gap in the flooring at the back of the cavity.

The interior walls have do not have this gap.

In addition to the below questions I was wondering the purpose of this gap?

I'm not sure how to proceed with the fitting of the floor though.

Should I just lay underlay and leave the cavities as they are?
Would this not allow a draft under the skirting?
Would it allow too much movement of the floor?
Fill the cavity completely?
Would this affect any insulation/damp-proofing on exterior walls?
What should the cavity be filled with?
Fill the cavity to within half inch of floor?
This is how the walls were when I have previously laid flooring
How would I go about filling to this level?

Appreciate any assistance with this and happy to provide any more information if required.


texts: Would my grounding conductor be “choked” out by metallic conduit?

texts:
I’m in Hawaii. The G.C./engineers have told previous electricians that they want the bare ground coming up through slabs to building steel to be in a short piece of rigid conduit for protection of the ground wire.

I'm sure this causes a choke on the ground which means the mains may never trip, etc. There are no grounding bushings on the conduit. Is this an approved means in Hawaii?


texts: How to use alternate flush mode on toilet

texts: I have a Gerber toilet, and the toilet lists two flush modes. Do I need to install something to use that alternate flush mode? The toilet handle seems to have only one action.


texts: Maximum length supported by a LED RGB controller

texts:
I'm looking to buy a LED RGB controller that has the following specs:

6A x 3 Channel
Output 18A Max

Given that a 12V 5050 SMD Led strips @ 60 leds/meter are 14.4W/1.2A per meter, this controller should be able to support 15 meters, assuming the driver has sufficient wattage.

And the driver should be rated accordingly + 10% ?


texts: Why is my refrigerator's water dispenser so slow?

texts:
I purchased a home that was vacant for over a year.  I replaced the filter, but the water flow was SOOOO slow.  It took about 6 minutes to fill up a liter. Also the ice cubes were hallow and wispy.  I checked the water pressure going into the unit and it was excellent.

I read online that if you removed the o rings, the water would move faster.  After paying someone to blow out the lines in and out of the unit, I found no difference, so I removed both of the o rings, one at a time.  Removing one did nothing.  Now my flow is GREAT, but I notice a funny taste in the water.  Is it not filtering the water without them??  I need advice...I don't want unhealthy water or it at a SNAILs pace.  Ann


texts: Trying to replace a Trailer's kitchen faucet

texts:
basically my issue here is I'm trying to replace the faucet in my trailer's kitchen but I've run into a problem here that I can't figure out how to solve.

This is what the end of my shut off valve looks like, and where the previous faucet connected.  It used to have tabs on it to help it twist, but they've broken off.

But this is what the new faucet's end looks like, and they don't fit.

It looks on the inside of the first one that they could connect, if I could take off the big grey part, but it doesn't seem to disconnect at all.  I know absolutely nothing about this stuff so any help would be appreciated.  Do I need to buy some sort of adapter?  Or are they completely incompatible and I wasted my time?


texts: Will the light fixture be able to replace my current light fixture?

texts:
So, just to be sure I thought I would ask before I go and really screw something up. I have these light fixtures that I want to replace.

The original light fixture support two light bulbs, each socket rating maxes out at 60W and it appears to have two separate wirings going to each socket. (see attached picture)

The fixture I want to replace it with has two light bulb sockets, but appears to only have one set of wiring.

My question is: is it safe to put two 60W lightbulbs on only one set of this wiring? And if it is, how do I ensure the second (live wire) that won't be used is safe from causing any problems?

If there are any more details needed to answer this question, please ask!


texts: Dryer loses electrical power in the winter

texts: For 3 years now my electric dryer loses the 220 current in the winter. It runs normally in the summer but gets weak in the winter. I have tried 4 different dryers and they all do the same thing. The receptacle is good and so is the circuit breaker.


texts: I'm getting ready to put up tile on this shower wall, the rough stud wall will have drywall on its face when I'm done. I'm having a tough time figuring out how to connect the two surfaces at a right angle. I picked up schluter tile trim and I could put that on the outside of the tile, but then what would be advised for the drywall and? What I put wooden trim on the face of the drywall overlapping the tile trim? Are there other ways to do this? Thanks for any advice


texts: How do I remove black rings on a wood kitchen top formed by a tin can?

texts:
At our house we have a wood kitchen-top. We had placed on it a tin can (a typical cookies can), and probably because of some water sitting there, a black ring has been formed where the tin touched the wood. However, the tin does not show any signs of rust.

The kitchen-top appears to be made of hardwood pieces glued together, and only on the top and sides there is some kind of finishing, which has worn off at some places.

The main question is how to remove the ring. Some questions to which the answers would help are also: what is the stain exactly? how can we tell what finishing it has? can I sand it and patch it locally?

The whitening near the ring has been created by using household cleaning material because initially we thought it was rust sitting on top of the wood. We also thought it was a water stain and tried the iron-and-cloth solution, but that didn't work either.

I would like to avoid sanding the whole bench for the hassle that involves as well as the fact that I don't think I'm qualified for that.

Some images:

full ring:

partial close up:


texts: What bracing is appropriate for this shelving?

texts:
I've built a work bench by modifying some plans I found, and one part of the modification involved installing a shelf.  The bench is 8' long, stable and solid, and I used 4x4x6 uprights in the back corners to mount the shelf onto.
To keep the shelf from flexing I used 2 2"x6"x8' as stringers between the 4x4s and attached the shelf ( 12"w 1/2" maple) to the bottom of one of the stringers with countersunk 2" #8 Robertson screws spaced every 12".
My question is: should I further brace this shelf considering the maximum load on it will likely be less than 100#?  My suspicion is that I should install 3 triangular braces, one at each end and one in the center to prevent any sagging.
Edit: Here's the updated picture with both upper and lower.  The curve in the small shelf is illusory, just need to touch it up with the router when I bullnose the front of the bench.


texts: I changed an outlet that is controlled by a 3way switch and now my breaker keeps tripping the switch has a red,black and white wire the black is hot and the outlet has two black and two white wires everything worked fine until I changed the outlet


texts:
I need to replace 3 fence panels and posts and i can't find any contractor, i am guessing because it is a small job. The only contractor i was able to find wants $1500 without staning or hauling away the old fence which is more than i expected.

I found that there is a no dig wambam vinyl fence system. I ordered sample but i am curious if anyone here has any experience with this.

The main reason i am going this route is so that i can avoid digging and mixing cement. Also i couldn't find any pre-made 7ft wooden tranditional panels. 3 panels i have are made of 8ftx2 and one 5.5ft so i need to replace 21.5 linear ft. WamBam happen to have 7ft fence.


texts: Why do my LED bulbs refuse to work in one socket but CFLs will work?

texts:
I have 3 lights over my desk operated by 1 simple switch.  I replaced all 3 with LED bulbs.  Two of the lights work fine, but the other will work for a while and then stop.  I tried 4 of the bulbs that work fine in the first 2 sockets, but would not work in this one socket.  When I took them out and put them back in the first 2 sockets, they worked fine again.

What's going on?
Is the socket bad or something else? CFL bulbs work fine in it.


texts: Does my podcast shed need a vapour barrier

texts: I'm turning my shed into a small podcast studio. I need to sound proof to an extent (including floor) and wondering if any vapour barrier would be needed. I'm hoping to use it all year round. There will be no heating/cooling. Just body heat effectively.


texts: What's the proper way to flash an inside roofing corner, with self-stick membrane?

texts: What's the proper detail to apply membrane or tar paper to an inside roofing corner, where a sloped roof meets a higher wall at a corner? Of course a metal flashing goes on top of of the membrane, and the wall's WRB must lap into the metal flashing.  But here I'm asking about how to lay out the details of the bottom-most redundant water shedding layer.


texts:
We just bought a home with a mother-in-law suite.  The suite has an overpowering sweet scent like commercial air freshener.
I've checked every outlet and switch, and conclude they must have added a scented product to the high gloss wall and ceiling paint.
I'd hate to paint it, then find the scent bleeds through the new paint.
It's disgustingly sweet.  Options? Interior sandblasting?  Chemical wash?


texts: What size wire should I use for my yard shed, and how deep should I bury it?

texts:
I'm planning to build a shed next spring, and want to make sure my thoughts on power are correct.

The shed is about 100' from the house, with another 20' inside the house to get to a subpanel. All I plan on having out there is some LED lights and a couple 120v outlets for convenience. The heaviest load I can foresee would be a leaf blower or maybe an electric lawn mower, if I ever get one.

Coming out of the house I'd go underground for about 15' to get under 2 gates, then I'd bring it up and run it on the backside of a fence, to save myself trenching the whole way.

With 8 AWG THHN wire I'm calculating a 2.62% voltage drop (down to 116.86) on a 20-amp load. Is this right, and sufficient? And I would need 3 conductors (black, white, green), correct?

How deep does my conduit need to be for the trenched sections? I'm planning 1" PVC conduit, is this good for both buried and aboveground sections? Any reason to go with a trench the whole way?

Any other tips? Thanks!


texts: Are there requirements for periodic inspection of your consumer unit? (UK)

texts:
The house I am in has the sticker I pasted below on the consumer unit.

It "recommends" an inspection 3 years after the prior one. Is this a requirement? Even if it is not required, is it actually a useful recommendation or is it more of a marketing ploy on the part of the electrician?

In certain cases of old or outdated equipment, perhaps a periodic inspection is wise, but I would be very concerned if an electrician knew of a serious problem which required active monitoring but hasn't made efforts to just correct it. (Perhaps there are cases of homeowners who will only pay for the minimum...)

Thanks


texts: Fitting a Velux blind to a modified window

texts:
I would like to fit a standard blind to my Velux window (model GGL-7).  However, it appears to have been fitted for a non-standard type of blind: there are thin wooden rails on each side, and an extra piece of wood with metal brackets at the top.  The extra parts have been painted over, and look like they would be difficult to remove without damaging the frame and/or glass (although I think I could remove the two metal brackets, as they're just secured with screws).

The top of the window (with the opening handle) is on the right-hand side of the attached picture.

Is it possible to fit a standard Velux blind to this window without removing the extra parts?  I'm concerned that there might not be room for the side rails, and that it may not be possible to screw the blind cartridge to the top of the window with the extra bit of wood in place.


texts:
I've just moved into a new place which has an outhouse. In there, there is an overhead fluorescent light (and two more under the floorboards for some reason) as well as two 2-socket outlets. The lights are all powered but none of the sockets is (the wires have been messily cut with bare cable-ends coming out of the outlets.)
I'd like to get power to at least one socket, for a single 200watt heating lamp running via an electronic thermostat. Will that be something I with no electrical experience could do? Or would it be a simple job for an electrician? I'd rather not get into raising floorboards (where the existing wiring, both connected and cut-off runs) if possible and I don't mind losing power to all of the lights.

Any advice? Cheers!


texts: Why is a smoke alarm chirping at specific times of the day?

texts:
I have a smoke alarm (Kiddie) that is beeping regularly (every 30 seconds or so), what I would typically associate with a low battery. The strange thing is that the beeping is only happening between 5 and 8 in the morning, and I'd like to understand why.
It starts beeping when there's nobody downstairs, and it's in a back room with no close heat sources - the boiler and water cylinder are in a different room. The only thing I can think of that has changed is that this time of year the sun streams through my utility room and into the back room where this smoke alarm is located. It's on the ceiling so it gets no direct sunlight of course, but the light shines on the floor directly below it.
I've replaced the battery, so I'm not looking for advice on how to fix it, I'm curious as to what the mechanism is that's causing it.


texts:
I have an Aniston gas boiler. It's displaying error code 108. After Googling I found it's because of the low water pressure. Other forums indicate I should open the water valves underneath until the pressure indicator says 1 or 1.5, however I have opened them all, in different combinations, and nothing works.

Any idea how I can fix this?

Thanks!


texts: What black wire is it & the connector at the rice cooker?

texts:
Related to my previous question here,
I made the biggest mistake of my life to cut the black wire instead of the thermal fuse wire.
I need to replace the entire black wire & its connector at the end.

overview of the entire broken wire

close-up photo shot of the connector

connector at the power supply
What is the black wire type?
Can I strip the black wire insulator and connect with the other black wire from here by soldering?
If not, what suggestion can you offer for me to join the black wire?
Thank you


texts:
In my interior wall a couple of weeks ago we noticed the paint bubbling with moisture underneath. The pattern made me think of efflorescence, and there is a fine crystalline powder in some parts.

My understanding is that the wall is a brick veneer, an interior layer of bricks, followed by lathe and then plaster and paint.

There is also evidence of previous repairs to the mortar of the brick outside.

There's obviously moisture, but I am unsure where from. If it is efflorescence, I don't get how that could go through that many layers without also showing down in the unfinished basement below.

After wiping the powder, it reappeared over the course of a week (almost no rain that week). Left over moisture?

Other candidates for moisture are a window right above this spot (have now recaulked some gaps) and an adjacent chimney that has a good looking crown but no rain cover on the actual opening (used for furnace).

Any thoughts? Is this efflorescence? If so, how could it go through all those layers without dripping down into basement?


texts: We are building a gunite pool (roughly 20’x40’) on a sloped yard. It appears we will need a 70’x6’ retaining wall for our slope. One person that builds retaining walls suggested building the wall one foot below the pool deck (5’) and then adding dirt and covering the wall with dirt/sod so it’s hidden in the grassy slope. Interestingly, several homes in our neighborhood appear to have skipped a retaining wall completely and just added incredible amounts of dirt to deal with their sloped yards. If we build the concrete retaining wall, is it ok to landscape over it so it’s beneath the landscape?


texts:
I am looking for some help in determining the proper size of wiring to run to my detached shop.  I wanted to run 100 amps copper at a one way distance of 85 ft.  I was told to use THHN 2-#2 hot, 1-#4 neutral, and 1-#6 ground (isolated in the subpanel) in PVC sch 40 1.5 inch pipe.  When I look online at calculators they show it needing larger wire.  Is there anyone that can help me determine the proper size of wiring to use?

Thanks.


texts: Do you use joists sistered to rim boards?

texts: When running floor joist packages, do you run your starting joist 16" on center from the outside of the rimboard, or do you put rimboard and a joist at the very beginning?


texts: Is it common to see building wire used for a doorbell?

texts:
I'm trying to install a new video doorbell. Found the transformer in the attic, attached to the attic outlet. There are two 2-wire bell wiring runs from the transformer - one to the chime and the other to the front door.

Well, almost. The front door bell is connected to a Romex cable - and somewhere there is a short... so, probably at the connection?

I traced the bell wire though the attic to the front of the house where it disappears into the wall cavity. It's a two-story drop, then exists as a cable.

So, do I have to cut up 2 stories of wall looking for the connection?


texts: How can I secure a shed with a skid foundation in a windy location?

texts:
I'm planning to install an 8'x8' composite storage shed in my backyard on a 4x4 skid foundation. However, my house is located in a very windy location. In the past 4 years, I've had my wooden privacy fence blown down twice. One of the times the wind was strong enough (just brushed by the edge of an EF4) to pull the concrete footings of the fence completely out of the ground.

I'd like to secure it as much as practical, but only to the point of which the shed itself will be able to endure. What I mean by that is that I don't care if the hold-downs fail if the shed is already destroyed.

So what's the best method to use?

Just set the foundation on concrete blocks and rely on the weight of the contents to hold it down
Drive some sort of ground screw next to the outer skid corners and use an eyebolt in the skids to attach with carabiners or wires.
Pour concrete piers with 4x4 stumps sticking out of them and use carriage bolts through the skids and stumps.
Something else I'm not thinking of?

I'd rather not have to pour concrete unless absolutely necessary. I've never done it before, and it seems like a hassle. If it's not as bad as I think it sounds, I'm open to being convinced otherwise.


texts: Warped T1-11 siding, can this be nailed back in?

texts: I have a section of T1-11 siding that is warped slightly (see picture). I am tempted to just hammer this back in, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea. What's the proper way to fix this kind of problem?


texts: Replaced motion sensor light switch; extra red wire in wall

texts:
I recently replaced a Leviton PR180-1LW Decora motion sensor light switch. The switch had four wires: red, black, green/ground, and yellow with a red stripe. The green, red, and black wires were connected to green, red, and black wires in the wall. But the yellow wire was connected to a second red wire from the wall. I believe this was in order to use it as a three way switch, though the second switch in this arrangement never functioned since we moved in.
I replaced the switch with a TOPGREENER TSOS5 switch. This switch included red, black, green/ground, and white/neutral wires. I connected the red, black, and greens to the same wires that my previous switch was connected to, and then connected the white wire to the previously unused white/neutral wire in my wall. But I was left with the extra red wire in my wall that was previously connected to the yellow wire in my old switch. I put a cap on this extra red wire, and everything seems to be functioning normally.
I just want to check: did I do this properly? Is it normal to have an extra red wire, and if so, what is it for? This is my first time doing any home wiring, and I just want to make sure I haven't done anything wrong. Thanks for any help.


texts: What is the best way to get rid of plants growing in my walls?

texts:
In a rental unit my fiancée just leased, 2 weeks after she moved in, a vine-type weed sprouted from the baseboard in her kitchen. Upon further inspection, I was able to pull about a foot of vine before it snapped, and more vines were found to be growing above her dishwasher. The flooring appears to be a concrete base, no plants are penetrating the visible substructure from outside, and the plant growth appears to be contained between the walls and cabinetry.

Is this something I can take care of, or will I need to call the landlord in to remove the cabinets?


texts: Are wall anchors necessary for hanging a small speaker?

texts:
I'd like two hang a pair of speakers on my wall.  They are 6.8lb each.  It is designed to hang on two screw heads spaced 1.5in apart. (Photo below)
I'm looking for recommendations on hanging.

I have a bunch of 3M command strips.  (Just the strips).  I'm not sure if there's a plate or something I can get for it that would work with the speaker.  This would be ideal as I don't have to put holes in my wall
Can I just put two (drywall) screws directly in the drywall for each?  They would not align to a stud.
Otherwise, do I need to use a drywall anchor of some sort?  I'm not sure about using two right next to each other.  One is probably enough to hold the weight, but then the speaker wouldn't be straight.


texts: Should I plug unused chimney ports in basement?

texts:
My house used to use the basement for gas heat and the water heater that were using these, 3.5" and 5" ports in the chimney stack.

The whole chimney is no longer used but I want to keep the option of using it upstairs for a potbelly stove or such. In either case of not using it or maybe using it, how important is it to plug these holes and what should I use to plug them? E.g. some premade air duct plugs that fit or just patch it with brick pieces and mortar permanently? They will not be accessible soon as I plan to hang drywall at about where the camera was when the picture was taken.


texts:
I have a hose that connects a water pump to a pressure tank.
The nipple is 3/8" I need to connect a longer hose, but all the 3/8 "faucet" hoses that I've found are too small for the 3/8 nipple.


texts: New plaster over top of exposed horsehair plaster in Bathroom

texts:
I've taken wainscoting off of my bathroom wall that seems to have been around since the house was built (1900). Under one of the walls is an exposed horsehair plaster that was done right up against the brick/studs. The plaster is very uneven as it looks like the wainscoting was used to cover it up directly and there's no finish/sealer on it. It seems to have taken some moisture damage as well as it's powdery and crumbles to the touch.

I'm looking to basically fill in what the wainscoting was covering up so I'll need to even it up with the board above it. It's not a very thick layer but because it's uneven, some parts will be thicker. I can't put greenboard drywall in because there's a gas line going up through the plaster (see red rectangle image below) and the drywall will stick too far out to line up with the window trim/sill.

Will I be able apply plaster directly or will this need to all be ripped out? Can I get away with putting up a mesh? What kind of plaster considerations should I take into account considering it's a bathroom?

[


texts: Why does my oven light flicker when I close the bottom drawer?

texts: I have an electric oven. Recently the oven light flicks on then off when I close the "pan drawer" on the bottom. Any ideas why and repair suggestions appreciated. Thank you.


texts: Will using a plumbing valve in reverse to shut off water cause damage?

texts:
Not sure why contractor installed my vanity so close to the shut off valve that I cannot turn valve clockwise. Instead of turning clockwise I have to turn anticlockwise to turn cold water off.
Will it damage the valve and leak or should I leave the way it is until a future repair is necessary?


texts:
My house is a 117 year old masterpiece of evolving building codes and improvisation. One of the things I expect to do at some point in the future is get a doorbell camera, though it's not on the immediate horizon. When we moved in, the doorbell was a wireless, battery powered sort that I find to be moderately annoying. Considering those two things, I bought a Honeywell AT140A1000, as it had good reviews regarding smart doorbells specifically.
Anyway, I finally got around to installing it yesterday, and here's how I had it set up.

Aside from the transformer being 24VAC and the chime calling for 16, I don't think I broke any rules. Indeed,  it worked for an hour or two. Eventually, though, I heard a pop over by the panel, where I have the transformer mounted. It wasn't loud, so I figured I had blown a fuse, even though at that moment I wasn't even touching any wires/connections/outlets/switches. I went to investigate, and all fuses were in order. But it stunk a little. Later reading indicated that transformers can stink a little when you first power them up.
Sometime after, I went to check the doorbell again and saw it no longer cause the chime to fire. So I tested everything, and sure enough, the transformer's secondary was at 0 volts. Not even the 0.065 volts I get from other "broken" circuits in the house, but flat zero. the transformer was also extremely hot. Like, I wouldn't want to handle it for more than a couple of seconds kind of hot.
I still had the original transformer (I wonder how old it is) so I hooked it up again as the sacrificial lamb juuuust in case. This one also got extremely hot, but appeared to not even last long enough for me to get up from the basement to press the doorbell.
So before I grab another Honeywell... help? I am an absolute novice when it comes to higher voltage AC (12v DC is my playground, usually) but this ought to be so simple even I can figure it out. And yet... =)
Thanks in advance for your help!
EDIT: Well, I just learned that you need a certain (larger) amount of resistance on the primary side of this kind of step-down, and a different (smaller) amount of resistance on the secondary side. That, and if there's a lack of continuity on either side, the thing is toast. Or, if there is continuity between the two, it is also dead. Turns out that both transformers I blew up yesterday have no continuity on the primary side, but both are still beeping on the secondary side. So... I wonder if that points even harder toward the breaker box feeding too much power into the transformer. I get a 126V read from the leads coming out of the breaker box. Is that enough to explode everything? I dunno.


texts: How to stop copper pipe corrosion (green copper stain in sinks and tubs)

texts:
I have couple of questions to the experts. I see copper stains (green/blue) in my sinks and at shower tubs. I had comprehensive water analysis done. Water was sampled from tap after flushing. My water is soft with pH 6.65. I am on well water. Below are the levels of some elements:

Hardness (calc.)->50.5 mg.CalCO3/L
Calcium-> 16.0 mg/L
Magnesium-> 2.56 mg/L
Sodium-> 10.0 mg/mL
Copper-> 0.221 mg/L
pH 6.65

Assuming that stain is coming from copper pipes, I called a company which installs filters.

The company told me that amount of stain is too much for the level of pH. I am not sure what to make of it. Could there be any other reason besides low pH to corrode my copper pipes. My house is 27 years old. I only had it for 3 years. And this house never had filtration system before.

The company proposed that I install neutralizer to bring pH to 7.0. This part makes sense to me and requires installation of a tank (tank #1). However, they want to install a water softener to remove neutralizer (Calcite) from water to make it soft again (tank #2). To regenerate softener matrix, they need a third tank (tank #3) for backwashing that uses salt for regeneration. Their calculation is that I (two people) would use ~500 pounds of salt per year for regeneration process. I personally think that it is a waste, and not an environmentally friendly method.

Moreover, my google search tells me that there many companies suggesting that if my water pH is above 6.0, I should only need neutralizer, not additional softerner/baskwashing tanks.

I am wondering if anyone has comments on this. Thank you very much.


texts: Connect C wire for nest thermostat on a zoned HVAC system

texts:
I got a nest thermostat which requires to get a C wire. My old thermostat does not have c-wire connected, but there are four unconnected wires as shown in the picture.

Then I came to my furnace and found there are two unused wires (orange and blue) near the control board as shown in this picture. The multimeter measures 26 volt between R and Com. First I put the blue wire under Com and measured only 15 volt at the thermostat side between Rc and the blue wire. Then I disconnected the blue wire from the comm terminal and put the orange wire on. I measured 25 volt at the thermostat side between Rc and the orange wire. Why do the two wires give different readings?

Then I realized my HVAC is a zoned system. It has a zone panel. This is the zoning panel diagram.

I also found unconnected orange and blue wires in the zone panel. Using my multimeter, I found the blue/orange wire in the zone panel is connected with blue wire/orange in the HVAC control board. At the bottom of the picture, you can see the wires connected to the thermostat based on my understanding. I don't see any orange/blue wires there.

So I got totally confused.

where is the blue/orange wires behind my thermostat connected to in the HVAC/zone pannel?
If I want to have a c-wire, what should I do? Should I connect a wire to the HVAC control board Comm terminal or somewhere on the zone panel board?

Thanks for your suggestion.


texts: Breaker for 240V baseboard heater, do I need GFCI/AFCI?

texts: I have an old electric 240V baseboard heater. Currently, it is using 2 single pole 20 amp breakers. I am going to change that to a 1 double pole breaker. No neutral is used. Is GFCI and/or AFCI breaker required? Does such a breaker even exist?


texts:
How efficient would it be to use radiators circulating with cold water, to cool house in summer?

Wondering if anyone has tried this, and how well it works?

I was thinking about H/AC in general, and wondering if it is possible to to leverage my actual system to get cooling in particular...

Anyways, all I could find was this, but it's advertising a service so not really credible in and of itself.


texts: How to tell if light switch box is grounded

texts: I'm attempting to install a smart light switch in an existing light switch box. There's isn't a ground wire I can see, nor does my voltage detector light up when I touch one end to hot and the other to the box. My outlets are all grounded, so could it be that my light switch box is not? This condo was built in 2004 in the Chicago area, so I imagine a ground of some kind must exist.


texts: Rewiring a UK dimmer switch with a Wifi switch

texts:
I've just bought a wifi switch and was wondering if somebody could tell me which wire goes to which please? I'm thinking the following?

L = Live (Brown)
L1 = Arrow over tilde??
N = Blue (Neutral)
Earth = Wrapped up

Thank you

Current Varilight dimmer switch:

To new wifi switch:


texts:
I accidentally bought a one-way switch for a receptacle that is wired for a three-way switch. I found that the only way it works so far is:

Connect the two black wires from the wall to the black wire coming from the one way switch  and use a wire nut to connect those three wires together.
Connect the one red wire from the wall to the red wire to the switch
Connect the ground and neutral from the switch to the ground coming from the wall

Since I've never had to do it this way before I was wondering is this safe? I initially thought that I could just leave the neutral from the switch capped and taped off but the switch didn't work when I did that. I am in North America if that makes any difference. Thank you all for the help in advance.

Attached is a link of the picture of the way I currently wired it
 https://photos.app.goo.gl/e4EcvFN19QJfQYQN6


texts: Where do I buy a weather proof combination padlock?

texts:
I have a shed that I use a padlock to secure. The last lock I had lasted a year before failing. It cost about $40. My wife prefers combination so she won't need her keys just to work in the yard.

I can't find a good quality, weather proof combination lock in the US, can anyone help?


texts: How do I replace a broken thermostat on a metal radiator?

texts: The thermostat swivels round and has no effect on the temperature.  The radiator is always very hot. How can I replace the thermostat?


texts: How can I remove the faucet cover I dropped down the drain?

texts: I dropped the plastic (H) round faucet cover of my bathtub faucet down my tub drain, and now the water will barely drain out. What do I do.


texts: Connected Garage door opener with a wall console controlling two doors

texts:
I have a three car garage. I have two doors: one double door and one single door. At the moment I do not have any garage door openers. I'm looking for two garage door openers that I can operate from one wall panel. A nice to have would be having the doors controlled via the internet (webpage, phone app).

I am currently look at the Chamberlain brand. They are connected, but I can't find a single wall panel that is compatible with Chamberlain that will run two doors.


texts:
My house has a faulty grade (the top of the foundation if at or below the ground level in many places).  It's a very old house (1920 built).  The foundation concrete is not steel-reinforced.  The previous owner capped the foundation in some places, but before fixing the deterioration in the foundation (efflorescence etc.).

The house has a crawl space, and the pest inspection company found that there is extensive wood-destroying pest damage near the front corners of the house.  The repairs for these would cost about $30,000.  Part of the reason is that the stucco in many parts also needs to be fixed due to dry rot.

I am wondering if it is wise to spend $30,000 or more to fix this problem without making the foundation better.  Isn't the pest problem likely to reappear soon if we don't fix the grade and the foundation?  I would rather do everything right and do everything once.

Also, the house is in an earthquake zone, so I wanted to get seismic retrofitting done.  Again, this to me means that I should change the foundation first.

What do you experts think?  I realize that my question might be very vague, or might not have important details in it for you to answer it.  This is the first time I am asking a question like this on this website, so please be gentle.  If you comment on the question asking specific questions about the house, I will update the original question.


texts: Protecting electronics from electrical surges - plugs with fuses

texts:
i was just wondering why the UK 3 pin plug has a fuse ? in South Africa the the Grid is significantly more volatile and lighting strikes abundant ( in the area i live in anyway)

i have moved here from the UK and was wondering why they dont sell any plugs with fuses , it just seems logical to me ..

any ideas ?


texts: Will most battery-powered smoke detectors attach to other back plates?

texts: Need to replace a battery powered detector.  Do most of them have the same sort of back plate or will I generally have to attach a new back plate?  Do they usually come with a back plate?


texts: What is the best way to replace the subfloor under load bearing wall

texts:
I am in the process of replacing the subfloor, a few joists, sill plate and header board. With the help of this community I have either worked out a plan or completed most of the parts of this task. From what I have read, to replace the subfloor under my load bearing walls, I need to brace it, pull the footer and hammer it back in when the floor is in. What is the best way to brace this wall so I can get a full 4x8 sheet of plywood under it?

Edit
I added a pic of the rafters in the attic, the row before the vent is sitting directly on that wall. Pic with the purple board is of the top of wall, there is another 2x4 hidden by ceiling. Obviously pic of bottom is just that.


texts: How do I remove window sill / apron overhang?

texts:
I'm planning on building a built-in window seat against a wall that has two windows  with sills and an apron that extends from the wall about 3/4" to 1":

What's the best strategy for removing this extended part of the sill so that we can build flush against the wall?

Figure we have the following options:

Replace with new sill
Cut existing sill flush with wall
Build on top of or around existing protrusion

Doing #2 would clearly be the easiest but I'm concerned about any draftiness and sealing it back up right. I'd prefer not to do #3 as it would affect the height of the seat by a few inches.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

For reference, here are our renderings of the intended unit.  The gray part is a vent for the radiator behind:


texts:
I'm sorting out some wiring at my Uncles house. There is a box outside that has two  pvc conduits going in to it. Power in, and power out to the pool lights. This box also feeds in to the house (not through conduit) via the boxes back entrance to deliver power to one outlet, and to a switch that turns on/off the pool lights.

The box is badly rusted so I am replacing it as well as the wiring that goes to the outlet and switch that are inside. Can I just use regular romex as the back entrance will not be exposed to water? Or do I have to use UF? I plan on using silicone around the hole before mounting the new box.


texts: What needs to be done to protect existing 12/2 cable in a stud wall being converted to a mass wall?

texts:
I'm working on plans to convert three bays of a 2x4 stud wall with drywall into a mass wall by adding material to the cavity.  The material will be something like sand/clay/gravel (to be determined depending on the answer to this question and other factors).  The goal is to catch heat from a wood stove around 8' from this wall and help moderate the resulting heat as well as transmit more heat through the wall to the adjoining room.

There are three 12/2 Romex cables running together horizontally through this wall at around 2' above the bottom plate.

What are the electrical concerns and considerations relevant to this idea?  Is it safe and allowed by code to pour a bunch of heavy stuff around these wires?  If not, what protection is needed and how can it be put in place given that the wires have already been run?

[Edit: I left the wires alone but I boxed them off so they have an airspace a couple feet tall and the mass only begins above them.  This isn't really an answer to the question so I'm not leaving it as an answer.  It's just the work-around I used since I didn't have the answer and it didn't seem like it was going to turn out to be okay to surround the wiring with mass.]


texts: Why are only 2 of the 14 posts in my radiator heating up?

texts:
I recently changed from oil heat to gas. All the radiators work in my 2 story home except for one on the first floor, which heats 2 out of the 14 posts. I changed the valve, which didn't work. Then I took it apart and ran water through it and the water went through it OK. When I put it back together, still only 2 of the 14 posts were heating up.

What could be wrong and how do I fix it?


texts: What is the minimum distance wiring must be behind a tile backsplash?

texts:
I have a log home and would like to correct the kitchen counter-top receptacles.  I have discovered the following problems that necessitate rewiring the entire kitchen (new cabinets/countertops were installed recently by previous owner).

No GFCI.
Wire splits somewhere inaccessible (probably behind counter -- requiring me to GFCI each receptacle.)
Only one circuit
Not enough boxes to meet the 2ft/4ft rule.
Wire is run through the cabinets -- visible (not behind the cabinets)

I've allocated two circuits and plan to put the fridge and three receptacles on one and the gas range and four on the other.  I will be adding two boxes.  I plan to router a channel for the wires in the solid log wall above the counter tops and then install the backsplash over the wire.  I am curious if hardiboard and tile (between 3/4 to 1 inch total of material) is sufficient protection for the wiring.  Does code require some kind of metal protection or min distance from the surface?  ...in the event someone tries to drill a hole in the backsplash?  I want to make the groove depth as small as possible as one wall is an exterior load-carrying wall.


texts: How to fix broken toilet flange from over tightened bolt?

texts:
I broke my PVC toilet flange when I over-tightened the bolt used to secure the toilet to the flange.  How do I fix this without replacing the entire PVC fitting? This PVC flange is glued to the drain pipe so I can't just pull out the fitting to replace it.

Here is what it looks like, the red circle shows where the bolt was that snapped the flange.


texts: Can I install Insulation board in the interior wall with House wrap on the exterior

texts:
I am insulating a shed as a wine cooler. I have house wrap on the outside. I will install unfaced batt insulation between studs. Can I then install foam insulation board under the drywall? I am concerned if the vapor barrier of the Insulation board may cause a double vapor barrier problem?

I am in Northern CA, and cooling the inside. So I believe the vapor barrier on the outside is correct. I just do not understand if the addition on the insulation board with foil will cause an issue.


texts: Can I add an HVAC supply vent directly to the trunk?

texts:
I have a bathroom I'm remodeling, and the current heat vent is attached to a meandering ~10' run of round duct which originates from the trunk of the furnace (located next to this bathroom in the laundry room). The vent needs to be removed because of a change I'm making to cabinets. Can I attach the new vent directly to the supply trunk (which runs right above this room), or is it important that I provide a run of round duct for some reason?

The bathroom is small (6'x11'?), and with the furnace nearby, I imagine putting a supply vent directly onto the supply trunk could result in a lot of hot air coming in due to pressure. Can I solve that by using a small vent?


texts: Filling gap between bottom of tiles and shower pan?

texts:
I'd like to fill a gap between the bottom of my tiles and the bottom of my shower pan. The shower pan is fiberglass.

I'm considering using an epoxy to fill this void, and I want to put tiles on top, flush with existing tiles, to make it look nice.

Will (cement-based) tile grout adhere to a set epoxy such as Marine Grade Epoxy Adhesive Paste?

An alternative is to use the epoxy to bind a piece of concrete board, and then grout the tiles to that.

Suggestions / implications?


texts:
This may seem like a silly question, but I removed two old facia boards.  The beams butted against them are all uneven.  I've tried an orbital sander but can't seem to get it to sand evenly to flush.  The one in the photo I had to cut because of rot.  It's particularly bad as I had to cut it with a sawsall.

Any advice or suggestions would be awesome!  I'm new to working with wood.