texts: What do I need to connect a refrigerator water line?

texts: I currently have  a water valve behind my refrigerator, but it's not hooked up to our current refrigerator. I have no tubing coming out of the valve.  We purchased a new refrigerator and want to hook up a water line to it.  The company we bought it from will bring a water hose with it.  Do I need to do anything else to the valve before they hook up the water hose?


texts: How can I remove broken pipe threads from inside a galvanized tee fitting?

texts: As I was trying to break loose the galvanized pipe from a Tee joint, the pipe snapped at the joint. I applied PB blaster to the rusted connection and let it set for about 30-45 minutes before attempting to loosen it. Is there a way to remove the joint without cutting off any of the remaining pipes?


texts: My one-year old Rheem Hybrid Hot Water Heater (xe50t10hd50u0) is completely dead. Power to the unit is good (full 240v). Screen on the unit is blank. I've pressed the reset button; no help. Unfortunately, Rheem is closed because it is Sunday, so tech support is not available. Is there anything else I can try?


texts:
Per the instructions with my new water heater, I drain a gallon from the bottom every month. The previous owner of my home never did anything and that water heater started leaking, hence the replacement.

The water in our area is hard-ish, but I hesitate to call it hard. I've never seen this in all the decades I lived in this area but, when I drain the water, there is a collection of minerals, sandy looking, in the bottom of the bucket. Maybe a tablespoon amount.

This has been going on for a year. At first I thought it might be residue in the pipes. We had some of the plumbing replaced cause it was in bad shape but not a majority of it.

How unusual is this and should I be concerned or do anything about it? I've lived within 10 miles of my current home and I've never seen that before though I'll admit I've not been as meticulous about taking care to drain the water heater or doing it in a bucket first. Have I just never noticed it before?


texts: Can I replace the power cord on an old electric drier, to fit my outlet?

texts: I just purchased a used dryer and the pigtail is different can I still use it if I can get it to fit, I know this sounds strange but when your on a budget do what I got to do with in reason...


texts: What should I look for in a Whole House Fan

texts:
I see a lot of variance in the prices of whole house fans in the market, and not a lot of clarity or comparison between vendors and models.

We're looking to buy some to install in our newly purchased duplex.

What are some things to look for and common issues or concerns with the installation and operation of these devices?


texts: Can I grind a shallow channel in my basement concrete to correct the height of a shower drain pipe?

texts:
Long story short - the people who finished the basement bathroom did so without a permit, and they made full use of the fact that their work wasn't about to be inspected or subject to building codes. I started this project as painting the walls, and since then I've learned that this room needs a lot more attention. The shower tiles are attached to drywall and the faucet was sealed with some putty smeared only on the top. The floor is raised 12" off the concrete, just to allow pipes to run above the concrete. This puts the ceiling of the shower about 3 inches over my head, and that ceiling is made out of drywall also. Additionally, there is no vent, so from the moisture - it's cracking.

The rest of the finished basement is only raised 5 inches, the bathroom is raised 12. I want to bring the bathroom to level with the rest of the basement. I cut away the hallway wall so I could see what I was working with: (Click for full size)

I figure that means I'll need to lower that main pipe you see running through both pictures. I can probably just grind a 1-2" deep channel in the cement, grind down some extra for the shower p-trap, and then built the floor around the pipe. Is that fine to do? Are there other things I need to consider? This is where it all connects to the main sewer line, which is under the concrete:


texts: How do I prepare exterior concrete walls for painting?

texts:
My house exterior walls are cement - how do I prep it before painting? Here's some photos. I'm thinking maybe a pressure washer but would prefer an easier, less messy alternative if available. I read up on some websites but the info conflicted. But I did read about using KRUD KUTTER KK32 instead of trisodium phosphate??? My goal is to do it right, do it once so it will last as long as possible. I'm thinking of using KRUD KUTTER KK32 to be neighbor friendly (due to over-spray???)

Do I power wash the paint off, then use the KRUD KUTTER KK32 and then paint or can I skip the KRUD KUTTER KK32?
any technique for catching the paint to make cleanup easier?
What paint type is best to use (for a flat finish - white or brown; not sure yet). I've read about using enamel, oil and latex

Please advise


texts: Does my water heater require a drain pan and can I connect one to a condensate drain?

texts:
Two part question...
The code says

Where a storage tank-type water heater or a hot water storage tank is installed in a location where water leakage from the tank will cause damage...

There's two ways to read that.  One extreme view is that water will damage anything if left long enough and because there is no time bound in that clause, no place is actually an exception.  Another view is to assume a reasonable time frame and to exclude places where a water leak won't necessarily cause damage like a garage with a concrete floor that is sloped towards non-water tight garage door.
As it happens, my water heater just started leaking last night and my wife saw water pouring down the driveway before we turned the water off.  It didn't do any damage so would a replacement continue to not need a tub under the code?
My reluctance to putting in the tub is, of course, not the tub itself but the drain line.  As there's no tub now, there's also no drain line so I'd have to install one for the tub to be any value.
OR would I?
My A/C system is on the other side of the wall from the water heater, would it be allowed that I tap into the HVAC condensate line as it drains directly outside already?
The code says

The pan shall be drained by an indirect waste pipe of not less than 3/4 inch (19 mm) diameter.

It doesn't say it needs to be dedicated although I could see that being implied by stating a diameter.


texts: What gauge wire is needed to feed a 70 ampere panel 300 ft. away?

texts: What gauge of wire do I need for direct burial for a 300 ft run for a 70 amp subpanel?  I am going to install a 50 amp plug for a 5th wheel and eventually add some lights to a green house about 70 feet away.


texts: How to use a side by side refrigerator in a cold garage?

texts:
During the summer months, the fridge in my not insulated garage works fine, and has for some time. During the cold winter months (below freezing) the KitchenAid KSRS25Q (old) side by side fridge won't cycle the compressor, unless I position space heaters around it (energy inefficient). Even then, on the coldest days (Indiana can get cold), the freezer internal temperature will still go higher than 10F/-10C.

Looking for solutions, I hear of something called a 'garage kit'. Seems straightforward. You add a heater inside so that the compressor continues to work even when the ambient temperature is lower than the fridge interior. Problem is, I have only found garage kits for top freezer models. It seems that, somehow, there is a difference between those and side by side models, and the 'garage kits' kits wouldn't work in my side by side model.

Is the problem just that I can't find the answer, that no such answer exists, or that the answer is so simple that no kit is really necessary?

In other words, what can I do for a 'garage kit' for a side by side refrigerator?


texts: Filling gap between outside door frame and solid brick wall

texts:
I’ve had a problem where an outside door swelled in hot and wet weather so that it did not quite fit in its frame, and repeated impact has knocked out a section of the pointing around the frame. I assumed I would just have to fill in the gap with mortar, but the gap behind (only a couple of inches deep) was actually filled with some dark stone material, and this is what has crumbled. The mortar just fell off because of this.

As it’s just a gap between the frame and the bricks I could conceivably fill it all with mortar, but does anyone have any idea what might have been in there? The house is over 100 years old but it’s not clear when this door frame was fitted, or even whether they did a good job of it.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what I should put in this cavity?


texts: Can I use expanding spray foam to support a cracked bathtub?

texts: I want to use spray foam to support tub. When using foam to support cracked tub wont foam push tub up. Tub is already cracked and wont hold water.


texts:
I purchased an axial fan for a refrigerator but it just has 2 wires sticking out. It came with a wall socket plug and cable but on the end of that cable is just 2 small holes.
How do I fix the wires into these holes?


texts: How to wire a three-prong extension cord to 110 outlet?

texts:
I have a 1000w inverter wired to a 12v DC battery. The inverter has two GFCI 110 outlets on it. I want to run an extension-style cord from the inverter receptacle but cut off one end and wire a standard 110 outlet.

I saw this question which asks if something along these lines is safe, but I'm wonder how exactly to achieve it. Do I need a special type or gauge electrical cord? A certain outlet box? Do I need a GFCI  outlet? Can I use the ground wire in the extension cord to ground the outlet?


texts: Can I change the gradient/slope of asphalt walkway with cold patch?

texts:
I have a asphalt walk way that runs right next to my house and collects water. I have a outside sump pump near by, but there is a low spot on the asphalt next to the house that will always take water first.

I want to raise the gradient of the asphalt next to the house so the water flows down towards the sump pump away from the foundation. I was thinking about just adding a bunch of cold patch to adjust the gradient that I want. Its about a 7 ft area along the house that I would need to raise. Would that work? Would it look terrible?


texts: Grounding wire in a bathroom vanity light bar

texts: I am making a vanity complete with mirror and light bars on each side of the mirror.  I am attaching the light bars to an extension cord as a source of electricity, but I noticed that the light bar came with an extra grounding wire.  How should I do this if the extension only has the hot and neutral wires?  Do I need to do anything with it?


texts: Looking for any suggestions for the following situation. The house we bought had a kerosene heater in the basement and vented through the base of the house which is vinyl sided. I am removing the heater and all the piping, venting and kerosene line. This is leaving a 3 1/2" hole in the side of the house where the vent piping went through. I looked at possibly using a dryer vent to close up the hole, but they look to be a standard 4" size. I am finding many suggestions on how to patch vinyl siding, but not any that address closing up a hole. I have looked at some vinyl vents, but they are not the correct size. Any ideas, suggestions or feedback would be appreciated.


texts: What power and type of in-line bathroom extractor fans should I be looking for?

texts:
We had some mould appear in our bathroom and I suspected that our inline extractor fan was underpowered. As it happens the extractor just stopped working, so I'm in the market for a replacement.

I have a few questions:

What is better - centrifugal or induct? It looks like the centrifugal ones have best throughput but are they as reliable etc?
What rate is good? I can't find info on my old induct 23W fan's rate, but I assume it was in the range 80-100 m^3/hr - does that sound about right? Would going up to a 220 m^3/hr be excessive?
Does power affect anything other than the rate?

A few notes:

The inlet in the bathroom is in the ceiling
I don't really want to take out the old ducting & fittings, so if it was a round, 125mm fan that would be great. Also 100mm would work I guess as I could still make the ducting fit.
Fan needs to have an adjustable timer on it so it stays on after the light is turned off - there is a permanent live circuit available.
Bathroom is approx 1.6m x 2.5m x 2.2m (i.e. 8.8 m^3) Using some recommendations from another answer, this would mean 70 m^3/hr would be fine... but it's not worked out that way before. Perhaps the timer wasn't on for long enough? Or perhaps I can double the throughput and halve the time?


texts: Why do wires shred when using a pull elbow?

texts: When I fish my wires through the 1/2" emt conduit to the 90 degree pull elbow box outlet, the wire coverings are a little shredded. They are not kinked. Should I be concerned about the wire covering shredding? Or should I try it again using a pull elbow box that has opening? How do electricians do it if they weren't using an open cover?


texts: Washing machine hose backing up and overflowing AFTER septic tank has been emptied

texts:
A few months ago, my washer started overflowing from the pvc pipe. A friend who's very well versed at plumbing cut the PVC pipe, snaked it and there was nothing blocking it.  He pulled the cap off the outlet pipe and saw that there was standing water in there. He determined that I needed my septic tank pumped, which I did the next day.  It's been about 3 months and everything has been fine until last nite when I was doing a load of laundry and the EXACT same thing happened. I had a flood of water coming out of the PVC pipe where the washer hose empties into. The septic guy had told me that the the pipe under my deck outside was bowed and that could possibly be why things are hanging up there.  But its' been fine for months!  I'm moving out in 4 weeks and I really don't want to invest any more money in this house. Does it sound like I should try to see exactly how "bowed" that exit pipe is and try to maybe prop it up?  Please help! I'm a woman alone and don't know where to turn.
Thanks for any answers!


texts:
Old house.
Replacing existing Bath fan/light/heater with new version.
A single three switch pole (hope I'm describing that right).

Old set up ran 2 12-2s as the power source  We replaced the old wire with new.  We can not figure out how to hook it up at the switch so that each on/off works independently.

Each 12-2 has a black, white, and bare.

Any suggestions?  Do I have to run three lines or at least line with 4 wires (white, black, bare, and red)?  Thanks in advance.


texts: tapering/mitering table legs on a table saw without someone helping

texts: I have just built my tool to taper/miter wood on my tablesaw - I am making a library table and need to taper the legs.  The tool works beautifully, BUT, when I get to almost the end, the piece I am tapering, lifts up and doesn't cut right.  What can I do to avoid this if I do NOT have someone on the other end to hold the wood flat???


texts: What should I place at the bottom of my couch to prevent miscellaneous items from going under it?

texts: I know this is a silly question, but I was wondering if there was a simple solution to preventing items from sliding under our couch.  We have a hardwood floor with a slightly raised couch on it.  Should I just line the edges with towels?  Or is there a more common solution to this?


texts:
I'm back for another concrete-related question:
I previously asked Fixing broken piece of concrete and got great answers from folks here.
I went to HD this weekend and finally patched up the broken cement piece.  I also got a little cement-happy and patched up a crack on the stairs (pics below)
I didn't think I care for the look of things, it really stands out from the rest of the stoop.  Is there a way to blend it in more?
Will it naturally blend over time as it gets weathered out?
Thanks for your kind help!


texts: Swap 2nd thermostat for *off* swtich downstream of 1st thermostat

texts:
I have two thermostats running two different fans wired up like this:

I'd like to replace the 2nd thermostat (on the right, in box #2) with a switch. I have done this and have the ability to turn Fan #2 always on, regardless of thermostat #1. I'd like the opposite, and am not sure how to wire it.
Desired operation:

Thermostat #1 controls both Fan #1 and Fan #2 at the same time.
If new switch (replacing Thermostat #2) is off, Fan #2 does not run.


texts: Why is the load circuit on my GFCI outlet dead?

texts: Installed new GFCI in garage box with Line and Load wiring.  Determined which wire pair on old receptacle was Load by removing a black and white wire pair, then restoring power at the circuit breaker.  Old receptacle remained active, and all others now cold.  Therefore wire pair removed should be the Load wires.  Then wired GFCI accordingly and plug tester indicates correct wiring.  Test/Reset works correctly and indicator light comes on when tested according to instructions.  However, all other loads on this circuit breaker are now cold. What's wrong?


texts: Door jamb and molding too short after replacing carpet with hardwood floor?

texts:
I've recently replaced carpet with hardwood floor. The door jamb and molding are now too short. Prior, the carpet was plusher and made the gap in this one door jamb less obvious.

Door Jamb

Molding

I'm pretty sure I am going to replace the molding anyways, to a more modern style.

My question, can the jamb somehow be repaired? With wood filler that can be sanded and painted perhaps? Is it faster to just replace the door jamb.


texts: Waxed floorboards now too slippery - how to keep look but create some friction?

texts:
With hindsight I perhaps shouldn't have done this, but it cannot be undone, so I am looking for the best way to remedy the situation!

Restoring some old pine floorboards, I sanded them down and created a very smooth surface. They looked very dull and grey however, so I applied a wax finish, which brought out the colour very well. The end result looked very good.

However, walking around on them I discovered that in certain types of shoe there isn't quite enough grip. Its not so bad that you can skate, its just a little unsettling.

So, I am wondering what I can do to create more friction. I imagine if I used an electric sander I could take off 1mm and remove the wax, but I would rather not. Is there maybe some tool/technique that can slightly roughen or indent the surface? My best idea so far is to try a very coarse sandpaper, but I think this probably won't be enough.

By the way, this is an outdoor gazebo/bandstand type of structure (covered). Putting down a rug etc isn't practical.


texts: How can I repair or hide dings and scratches on polyurethaned trim?

texts:
I have lots of trim, ledges, and doors in my house that were covered with a dark stain and then polyurethaned. Looks great until the tiniest ding or scratch, at which point it turns white. Even minor vibrations and movement around door handles that were a little loose has left a white outline where it touches the door.

I can use Pledge™ or orange oil on these and they disappear perfectly…for about 1-2 weeks. Then the oil dries out (?) and the scratches are evident again.

Is there a way to fix these long-term (at least 12 months at a time), other than sanding/staining/repoly?


texts:
Good morning everyone!

Quick question. I want to build a room within an existing cellar in my basement. This cellar has a very low ceiling, of about 1.95m. I want to put up the walls with some relatively thick, water-resistant MDF I've found that is 3cm thick. Is there any way I can put these walls up without needing a studded framing? The walls and ceiling of the existing cellar are concrete. Would "L" type connectors be enough?

New information regarding some of the comments posted:
I am aware 3cm MDF is very heavy. That is actually one of the main reasons for using this material for the walls. The room in question that will be built is to be used as a music recording studio, and the denser the walls the better the sound attenuation properties of the room (generally).

Regarding the dimensions, the room is roughly 7 meters long by 2.5m wide, with the aforementioned 1.95m ceiling. The actual MDF boards will be around 190cm long x 66cm wide in order to fit them into the space (have to maneuver through a tight space to get to this room). The relationship to the existing walls is that there will be a separation between the MDF walls and the existing ones of about 10cm more or less.

Thanks!


texts: Replacing single pole switch (w/one screw on each side) w/ single pole switch w/2 screws on right/1 on left

texts:
I bought Enerlite single pole paddle switches to replace my old switches.  I am replacing a switch for my dining room and it has two screws on the right and one on the left.
How do I am connect the wires on the new one with (3) screws instead of (2) screws?

There is only one switch that controls the dining room.  There was only one wire connected on the right side of the old switch. The other wire was connected on the left side.


texts: Can I install rigid foam board over vapor barrier that is attached to basement wall?

texts:
I recently had my basement waterproofed and a vapor barrier similar to the one in the picture was installed, except our has a dimpled flange at the bottom.  We are also getting ready to finish our basement and I would like to install rigid foam board behind the studs, up against this vapor barrier.  Is there any reason why this would be a bad idea?  I know that normally the foam board is adhered directly to the concrete walls. If I can put up the foam board, should I stop at the flange? Another idea I had was to adhere the foam board directly to the studs and then push them up against the wall before securing it. Finally, would just leaving a gap between the stud wall and concrete wall be best?

(click to enlarge)


texts: How do I determine if I have an open neutral?

texts:
I live in VA. My bath and bedroom lights were working fine and suddenly it was as though I threw the circuit breaker. Everything on the bedroom/bathroom circuit breaker went dead. I checked the breaker and it was not tripped, but I reset it a couple of times and still no change. I then replaced it with a new one just in case the breaker was going bad, still no change. The GFCI receptacle in the bathroom is on a different circuit. I checked it with a digital multi-meter and it checks out to 122V with the bedroom / bathroom circuit breaker off.

I also checked all other receptacles and switches with breaker on using an analog voltage detector and it shows hot on both the neutral and the hot side, but with my digital multi-meter they show only about 1V between the neutral and hot wires. This sounds like an open neutral from what I know, but how do I verify and isolate if so? I would say I have slightly more than a general working knowledge of electricity and circuits, but not used frequently so this is a little perplexing. Any help is certainly appreciated.


texts: Does an adapter exist that can convert a rotary tool in a oscillating multi-tool one?

texts:
I saw in the Internet a power tool with a proprietary attachment system that can transform the power base in a drill, in a cutter, in a jig saw, in a multi-too and so on... more than 10 different tools.

Is it possible to convert the rotary motion of a normal angle grinder to an oscillationg motion of a multi-tool? Does a similar universal adapter exists?


texts: My daughter plugged in her cellphone charger and 4 120v lights immediately went out.i checked receptacle for voltage and found none. I pulled out receptacle and found no problems. 1 receptacle on this circuit is switched but the aforementioned one is not.I checked and reset all gfcis.Not sure which breaker is for this circuit so I carefully reset all of them twice.Pulled off breaker box cover and checked all wires for tightness.Removed switch for lights and direct wired it and got no voltage or light. The house is 20 years old with Romeo wire. All of this is on 12g wire which surprised me.I have spent 4 afternoons on this pulling out almost all switches and receptacles on first floor and garage in the surrounding area and checked everything with a meter and I can't find the problem. It blows my mind that this even happened.what could possibly be the problem?


texts: How do I cut a beveled fence post cap on already installed fence posts?

texts:
How can I cut already installed 4x4 cedar fence posts to match the beveled post caps on my other posts?

I'm very aware that doing this the right way would be to do it before installation!  Too late now...

I'd be fine buying a purpose built jig/tool for this similar to this one for a different cut.  I would like to avoid buying expensive new tools that I don't already have beyond a circular saw, handsaw, jigsaw, and of course a reciprocating saw.

Left side is the uncut newly installed fence posts and on the right is an example of a previously installed fence post with the desired bevel.


texts: Is there a shower drain pipe in this picture?

texts:
I'm certain the 3" pipe on the left is the toilet drain (it is about 12" form the wall and has a rounded cap on it). I'm guessing the shorter 2" capped pipe on the right, up against the wall, is the vanity drain. Then there is a 3.5" pipe on the bottom right that has a plug that looks like it's screwed in, but is actually not screwed in (it pops straight out). From what I understand, this is definitely not for the shower and is most likely a cleanout. Looking down it, I can see the water go by as my wife flushes the toilet up stairs. This seems like an odd place to put a cleanout, given the location of, what I believe is, the vanity drain. Also, I think the pipe that goes to the ceiling in the center of the picture is the vent stack. There appear to be larger pipes that come down the wall further to the left that I believe is the main drain that runs under this set of pipes.

Here's a photo (click for full size):

So, 3 questions:

Is that 2" pipe most likely for the vanity?
If so, does this mean I'll be tying in to the vertical pipe for a dry vent, although there is no roughed in horizontal pipe pointing at the 2" drain?
Is that horizontal pipe pointing to the left a vent pointing to where the shower is intended to be located (as in that is the dry vent for the shower)?


texts: Can I make my stamped concrete a uniform color if there are pieces that are different colors?

texts:
This is my front walkway. Originally this stamped concrete was installed and colored the same, but at one point the previous owners had to replace a section of it and the color job they tried wasn't even close to matching.

So now I have the old color, and the newer color that don't match, all of which is in need of a reseal job.

Is it possible to recolor all of them so that they match and everything looks uniform? What products would you recommend?


texts: How to frame steel studs parallel to concrete ceiling "joists"

texts:
One of the drywall I need to hang runs parallel to the joists (concrete joists and slab above it), and I'm at lost on how to affix the upper tracks which would be between two joists.

I've seen this problem address with wooden joists and studs, but it is kind of different problem when using steel studs and concrete joists.


texts:
My "local" big-box home improvement store sells a pressure treated lumber called AC2. Apparently this is different from ACQ in that its environmentally friendly, but still can be safely used with aluminum. I can't find very much online about this other than the product brochure from the manufacturer here.

I'm just trying to get confirmation from someone unrelated to Menards that this lumber is ok to use with aluminum flashing because everything else says not to use aluminum with the new types of pressure treated lumber. Thanks.


texts: What causes uneven sheen in semi-gloss or high gloss paint?

texts: I have new drywall which I prepared with 2 coats of primer. The semi-gloss paint finish sheen is uneven on the wall. I went back over certain areas with another coat of paint. Better, but not perfect. Should I have put a third coat of primer on the wall-especially where there was no mud? Is the solution a one-stroke brush/roller stroke from top to bottom? I am trying to achieve a smooth finish on the walls. The wall has lots of sunlight (big windows, south & west light).


texts: How would you repair this exterior foundation insulation/wrap?

texts:
A home I purchased, which was built in 2005 located in the upper Minnesota/US (frigid winters, balmy summers) has the larger faces of the above-grade poured foundation covered in a strange insulation I cannot ascertain to the life of me what it is or where to get more of it; or how to fix it.

As you can see below, various parts are 'ripped'; I'm guessing partly due to a poor trimming job and also due to shrinkage from hot summer sun.


texts: I had two power supplies fed from the DB protected by an ELCB. Yesterday I had the power supplies burnt at the incoming end and no breaker was tripped. I also had couple of phase dimmers fed from two separate phases protected by a breaker each. They also were damaged at the incoming end but the breakers never tripped. What could be the cause? I checked all the connections , didn't find any short circuit.


texts: What is the silicone-like coating on CREE LED light bulbs?

texts: I recently bought some CREE LED bulbs, the kind pictured below, and while they are the same shape as glass incandescent bulbs, they seem to have some sort of cloudy and sticky rubber coating, as if the whole bulb had been dipped in silicone. What is this coating? What effects does it have?


texts: How should I eliminate an unused switch in a two gang box?

texts:
Florida, USA

We bought a house with five ceiling fans, each with a light fixture installed. Each fan is controlled by a pair of wall switches in a two-gang box, one for the fan motor and one for the light housing. Simple enough.

We are replacing the fans with models that do not have lighting kits.

My wife desires fans without lighting kits.

What's the best way to handle the wall switches and lighting kit wiring?


texts:
I have this handle attached to the shower wall (as a kit):

I frankly cannot figure out how to remove the while plastic piece and the metal piece outside of it in order to pull the large round cover.

Here is what in the back of the shower wall:

Or should I use a saw and cut right at that plastic piece? I am not sure if there is metal in the middle. My saw is not good enough.

Any idea?

Thanks.


texts: Can I replace a hardwood floor board without replacing the entire floor?

texts:
I have a piece of floor that expanded and is popping up due to some water damage (attached photo).

Is it possible to just take out the piece and trim it down to make it fit? Or would I need to replace the entire floor?


texts: Space between 12'x24' tile is it 1/8 or 1/16

texts:
I bought a T-lock leveling system.
I'm stacking my tile vertically.
What space should I leave between the tiles and also between the tile and wall.
Shall I use 1/16" spacers or 1/8" spacers?


texts:
i have a couple 18V makita powertool batteries that i'd like to be able to use in a blackout to "turn on" my boiler. the boiler is natural gas with a solenoid valve that opens with 24VAC.

does any know of a slick way (using out of the box stuff ideally) to convert 18VDC (or 36VDC for 2 batteries in series) to 24VAC?

my current thought is this:

[18VDC battery] --> [18VDC to 12VDC stepdown converter] --> [12VDC to 120VAC inverter] --> [120VAC to 24VAC transformer] --> [solenoid valve]

haven't tried it yet. it just seems a little more cumbersome necessary. e.g. i haven't seen an 18VDC to 120VAC inverter that would let me eliminate the converter.

maybe the makita charger itself can be used as an inverter? i don't know enough electrical to know if that's possible.

thanks


texts: OK to drain 2nd vanity sink like drawing? Will this meet code?

texts:
Hope you can take a look at the drawing and let me know if its ok to hook up the waste like this. The plan is to remove a section of gal at both locations in red and install a pvc sanitary tee and attach with 1-1/2" Fernco Proflex couplings. The existing sink drain that will be removed is @ 14" center. The 2 new drains will be @ 22" center to get up inside the vanity. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks


texts: I have an entranceway between my house and a wall. There's a concrete walk in the center with small patches of dirt on each side. I want to put a wooden gate across with the posts sunk in the dirt. This morning I dug down on the wall (hinge) side and hit the wall's footings 9" down. The above-ground height is 45", so I was hoping to get down 24". I also read two experts' opinions that concrete isn't necessary and can increase the chance of rot. I'm using cedar 4x4s and planning on attaching them to the walls (stucco) with lag bolts. I'm in Southern California, so no frost line. I estimate the gate will weigh 35-40 pounds. My question is: if I pack the post in gravel and bolt it to the wall, will 9" be deep enough to keep the post level?


texts: Rheem RPLB-030JAZ - is it a Heat Pump or AC unit?

texts:
I recently purchased a home that came with a "heat pump", however when I look on the box outside my house it says:

Rheem Air Conditioner
Model RPLB-030JAZ

I cannot find anything on this when searching on the internet nor did the previous owners leave me any receipts or user manuals.

How can I confirm if this is a HEAT PUMP or not?
Does anyone know where I could get the user manual?

Thanks,


texts: GFCI with no loads attached and no downstream outlets trips with power restoration

texts: I have recently (purchased 9/18/14) installed several GFCI outlets - Pass & Seymour Legrand - with LED indicating light. I installed three of these - all on separate and dedicated circuits. Upon energizing the breaker(s), every one of the GFCI's tripped when I reset each breaker at the panel. I reset the GFCIs and cycled power at the panel and the same thing happened. At no time did I have a load connected either via the plug-in or to the load side of the GFCI - and I did not wire anything to the line side (except the required leads from the breaker panel box to energize the outlet). Can anyone explain why this is happening - it is not my experience for GFCIs to trip upon power loss and restoration. Thanks.


texts:
I replaced a non-protected receptacle with a GFCI type and now my circuit tester trips the GFCI as soon as it is plugged in.  The receptacle tested fine before replacement, ground, neutral, hot, etc.  I've double checked the hot/neutral/ground connections.  I've also tried it with the downstream load disconnected.

The GFCI trips the moment I plug in my circuit tester (before pushing the test button).  Otherwise things check out OK.  I can plug in a power tool without it tripping.  Also, the integrated test/reset button work correctly.

I've read that the integrated test button is the only one that truly matters. Is this correct or should I be concerned? I'm sure a home inspector will red flag this if their tester has the same result.

Update

My tester is by "Commercial Electric".  The tester is one of the palm sized three prong type with three leds to indicate the condition of the circuit and a button on top to test GFCI. It's new from the local box store.


texts: Can I drill a 5/8" (16mm) hole in concrete with a cordless hammer drill?

texts:
I need to drill a 16mm (5/8") hole in a concrete wall. All I have is a 20V DeWALT DCD795 drill (which has a drill driver and hammer feature) and the appropriate drill bit.

Someone suggested to me this won't be sufficient and I risk breaking my drill if I try. Renting gear isn't an option where I am (Thailand), and I'd rather not buy more gear.

Any comments, thoughts or suggestions are welcome!


texts: I was going to remove a tub so I turned off what looked like in my basement, but that one just seems to spin and spin and spin. The hot water valve closed and 2 other secondary from that main looking line I closed ( water to the damn tub never stopped.... but every other water faucet shower and toilet in house stopped...) So anyways I went to open everything back up and now have very little pressure if 1 faucet is on. And weaker as I turn others on (hot or cold) it's on a pump and drainfield system the 1 faucet for sure I can't get any stronger is the kitchen sink... That's weak.. peroiod...


texts: Can I terminate ah HVAC condensate drain line through a soffit?

texts: Problems with running attic condensate line drain out the soffit on the side of the house (3 floors up)?  Condensate line is leaking and I'm trying to avoid destroying walls to find the leak.


texts: How can I add wiring to get my three-way switch to work properly?

texts:
Hello,
Please see the attachment showing how it is currently wired.
I have 3 switches  in one gang box.(3 way to kitchen light, single pole to bathroom light and 3 way switch controls upper portion of multiple outlets)

Power Source: Located at kitchen light. (white , black & ground)
Kitchen light 3 way switch:  Between both switches there is a 3 wire with ground. (red,black & white) From switch in 3 gang box to kitchen light there is  3 wire with ground. (red,black & white)
Bathroom light: 1 each single pole switch to light (black, white & ground)
Switched outlet:3 way switch (brown, white, black & ground)

Issue:  No dedicated common for bathroom light. Need to make use of the red wire located at the light so I can have a dedicated common for the bathroom light.

Provided hot to the single pole switch, but no dedicated common. Provided hot to the outlet 3 way switch and it works fine.enter image description here


texts: I just installed a new led switch in a box with two other switches. When I ran power to it and tested the non led switch in the box I received a big spark. I went and turned off power again, removed face plate, and realized the ground from the new switch was wrapped around screw on the switch next to it (the screw for live wire). I fixed the problem and ground wire has a burn mark on it from spark. Just wanted to know if it is safe or should I have an electrician come out to check for and damage or hazards?  Thanks.


texts: Soldering copper pigtails to aluminum wire

texts:
As I prepare to remedy my parent's 1965 home's aluminum wiring I have investigated Copalum and Alumicon. Copalum appears to be unavailable. I've tried a few Alumicon connectors but they take a lot of space in the box and basically add more connection points to fail. Now I'm trying soldering copper pigtails to the aluminum wire. Of course the right flux (Superior 1260) and solder (SN100C) are needed, but the results look excellent. Here are some of my practice samples going from 12 gauge aluminum to 14 gauge copper:

Before soldering I wrapped the connection with AWG 40 copper wire to hold it together during soldering and to add strength. Once covered with heat shrink tubing the wire seems for all the world to just be a copper wire.

It takes essentially no space in the box and is far stronger than the aluminum wire itself.  A previous thread indicates that direct aluminum to copper splices are not allowed under NEC (at least for new construction), but that is what Copalum does and it is a recommended fix. Also, previous threads indicate the connection must be solid before soldering, so I could twist the wires together first, but the twisting adds a fair amount of space and frankly the aluminum wire is a bit fragile.  Yes, it takes a while to solder, but I've got time and I feel far more secure about this than leaving the aluminum alone (which I've had to repair multiple times). The question is really what will happen when the home must be sold? Is this going to be too foreign to the home inspector? Does anyone see any other real issues?  Thanks!


texts: Light Switch Neutrals: Bundle all together?

texts:
I am in the process of hooking up 2 GE Z-wave light switches. I've hooked up multiple smart switches but ironically only one has needed neutrals (these 2). They are both going in a double gang box side by side. I had a few concerns: (BTW they both went to the same breaker switch)

One of the wires was red going to the previous switch, I hooked it up like I would any normal hot wire and it worked...is it just another color for a hot wire? (They've always been black or grey in this house)
Each switch required a neutral. I took both GE neutrals and tied it into the bundle of other neutrals (Which was like 2-3 wires in a wire nut). Sidenote: This made 4-5 wires in a wire nut...it fit fine but was a little tight. Is this ok? Is there a "max limit" or just whatever you can fit
This is more of just me being paranoid but man with all the wires and how tight it gets in those gangboxes...it makes me feel like something is going to snap or come unhooked (even though I make sure everything is super tight). I guess if that was a problem though more houses would be burning down ha...just always makes me uneasy.


texts: How do you install zinc strips in a roof without creating leaks?

texts:
This article gives instructions for installing zinc strips at the ridgeline to inhibit moss.

This picture shows nails through the zinc strip:

It looks like they have nailed through the zinc in to the roof. Wouldn't that allow water through the roof?

(Posted for a friend. I don't actually have a roof. :-))


texts: Loose connection in Cooper night light receptacle

texts:
I have a Cooper / Eaton nightlight-receptacle TR7735W (manufactuer, amazon), which I replaced a standard receptacle with. The receptacle is not at the end of the run, so there's a line out to the next receptacle, and is not switched.

(source: cooperindustries.com)

The old receptacle used the backstabs, but this new receptacle has the side screw plates. I wired the two hots to the two hot-side screws, the two neutrals to the one neutral-side screw (it has space for 2 wires), and the ground. I left the break-off tab intact. The switch and light work fine, and wiring is confirmed correct with my tester.

When I plugged in the vacuum, the light went off. I was able to get the light back on by pushing the vacuum plug to the side ever so slightly. Pushing it back the other way caused the light to turn off; I could repeat this to turn the light on or off repeatedly.

I admittedly haven't done any troubleshooting (didn't notice the problem with the vacuum plug until late), but is this indicative of a problem with the night light itself or just my wiring job? I'm thinking loose connection.


texts: Seal gap between bathtub faucet and cracking tile

texts: We've got a 1/2 inch gap between our bathtub faucet and the tile, and as you can imagine water has been leaking through and sometimes even dripping though the wall to the floor below. The tile is starting to wear out and chip off as well, so I'm not sure if caulking will hold or even work for such a large gap. We are saving up for a bathroom reno but need some sort of solution to hold us over for the next few months at least.


texts: how install a new ourdoor digital aerial

texts:
I have a problem with the tv aerial. I used a aerial splitter to split the aerial into 2 with one spare way. I'm not getting a signal in a room thats 50 foot away from the splitter. However the room where the splitter is works perfectly. I was told that the digital signal isn't as easy to split as analogue. The best way would be to install a new digital outdoor aerial. Is this true or is he just trying to get business off me?

If this is true / partly true, what tools would I need to fit it properly?
how do I know which direction I should point at? I noticed our is straight whilest the block of flats behind us is at an angle.
Seems that our is pointing more towards theirs.

A tutorial / video would be most helpful too because never ever done this before. Am a trainee electrician not aerial man.


texts: Install meter box on existing steel siding

texts:
I need to install 2 electrical boxes on existing steel siding.  One box is a 13" meter box (ringless lever), and while I'm at it I want to leave room to install a solar panel disconnect switch box for a project next spring.

I'm afraid if I surface mount the boxes over the siding, it will look like crap.  But to remove the siding from the top down seems like a lot of work; the contractors who installed it did a good job (even rivets along the top).  There doesn't seem to be any siding seams along this wall.  Difficult to see in the picture, but there is concrete block wall below the siding for about 6 inches.

I could also install to the left edge of this wall, it won't look any easier.  If I install on the back wall of the garage, there are at least some seams, but some are pretty long.

Power Company meter guidelines

The main panel needs to go pretty much behind this pictured wall due to obstacles inside the garage, but I can be flexible exactly where the meter is to some extent (external conduit runs within reason).

I've given some thought to putting them to the right of the door as that dimension is almost exactly the width of the meter box (even with the downspout in place).  If needed, I do have some extra siding panels and J channels / trim the contractor left from the siding job a few years ago.

Can anyone think of other options?


texts: How do I paint over a textured ceiling without removing the texture?

texts: A painter I had at one time painted the textured drywall mud ceiling (off white color) in a different part of the house.  He had to change to a sprayer because he said the drywall texture was coming off with the roller.  I want to paint the same type of ceiling for a small bathroom.  I don't have a sprayer.  I am afraid to paint due to the texture coming off.  It has never been painted over this texture before.  Do you think I can wet it and scrape it off and still do a light sanding to get a smooth finish?  Or forget everything including the paint and leave like it is?  I am not sure what is under this texture and whether it will be ready to paint and have a smooth finish?


texts: Do I have to periodically pour water down my basement floor drain to maintain the p-trap water seal?

texts:
There is a sewer smell coming from my basement. There are only a couple entries to the sewer in the basement: A laundry sink that acts as the drain for a water softener (which regenerates every few days), and a floor drain.

I suspect that the floor drain is eventually evaporating the water in the p-trap, and I'm getting sewer gasses coming up. I've poured a bucket of water down the drain and it seemed like it helped, but it's difficult to tell, probably because the air in the basement doesn't get replaced much.

Is this a known problem? I can think of a few solution if so.

Pour water down occasionally.
Seal the drain or put a valve in it somehow - although this doesn't seem like a bright idea in case the sewer line between the drain and the city sewer has a blockage.
Cover the drain with something to keep the gasses from coming up, but should the sewer have a blockage, the cover will move out of the way or float.


texts:
Just got done sharpening a few knives, and thought it could be useful to post a question about it here.

So lets say I have one of these guys.

With a coarse stone, a medium stone, and a fine stone.

What is the proper way to sharpen a knife with a stone like this?
Do I need any other tools?
Do I need any protective equipment?
Do I have to use some type of oil?
Is it better to go fast, or slow?
Is the procedure different with a knife that has never been sharpened before?
Do I have to do anything different if the blade has rust on it?
How do I know when the knife is sharp?


texts: Can I use a 150A cable to feed through a 200A breaker subpanel?

texts:
I am installing a 200A main breaker panel as my service disconnect. The Eaton BR816B200RF panel will have feed thru lugs on the bottom. I want to feed a 150A sub panel from those lugs. The subpanel will be 50 ft away and have it's own 150A breaker.

I would rather not run 4/0 Al SER cable if 2/0 Al is sufficient to feed the 150A subpanel. Not sure why the cable would have to be sized for 200A if it will never see current greater than 150A. This work will be inspected but in any case I want to follow the code. Can I use the 150A cable? Thanks.


texts: House already wired for ethernet; how to engage?

texts:
A previous owner of my home (I don't know when) wired every room in the house with an ethernet port. I have not been using the ethernet at all, but recent needs for working at home have made me curious about what I could accomplish with somewhat minimal investment.

A diagram of what I think is my wiring setup is provided below. There used to be an antenna mounted on my roof with a wire that enters my garage and connects to a "Power Injector" before joining a patch panel. All the rooms in the house have an ethernet outlet that I assume lead to the other wires in the patch panel.

Currently, I get my internet from a cable port in my living room that connects directly into an Arris Surfboard cable modem / wifi router.

I am enough of an engineer to feel that simply plugging an ethernet cable into the router and the nearest wall outlet won't suddenly bring wired ethernet into all of the rooms of my house. But in browsing other help pages here and on the wider internet, it's hard to tell what exactly I am lacking.

Here is a picture of the power injector.

And here is the patch panel (Yikes, I know. Secondary question will be how to figure out which cable in this rat's nest goes where)


texts: Can I erect a barrier to keep water out of my garage?

texts:
Within the last year, I have purchased an 80+ year-old house. The house has a sealed blacktop driveway that runs parallel to the house. The house has an integrated garage with swing-open (horizontally opening) doors. The garage floor is about 2-3 inches lower than the driveway, with the bottom of the doors being below the drop-off where the driveway meets the garage floor.

The garage gets some water in it, and when it storms it gets a lot of water. For the first time, we realized that the water may possibly be coming in through this gap since there's nothing to stop it (as opposed to general foundation leaking).

Is there a barrier method we can employ on the outside of the garage? Installing a french drain or similar mechanism would be extremely difficult due to the placement of the driveway and the garage, but laying those water-inflatable barriers would not be an option for freezing temperatures. How would I build such a barrier, and of what material? I'd like to keep the profile of the barrier as low as effectively possible to be able to use the garage from time to time.


texts: 12/2 connected to 8/3 wire with extra wires taped off. Is this legal?

texts:
We just got into a house and I believe the electrical is a mess. House is approximately 40 years old. We found an 8/3 buried wire that runs to a detached shop/shed and about 10 feet from the shed it transitions to 12/2 wire. The extra wire(s) are taped off in a buried electrical box. I am not sure at this time which breaker the 8/3 wire goes to as things are not labeled correctly in the panel. Can anyone tell me if this is legal? Should I change this and route this to a sub-panel and then go to a 20-amp breaker to feed the shed? Thoughts/Suggestions?

Updated: 2/5/2020 Corrected my spelling from Tapped to taped. The wire goes to a breaker on the main panel that is 15 amp. This feed of wire goes a long distance and I would guess over 125 feet minimum so there is likely voltage drop to consider.  The 8/3 wire states "general uses" and is only 110V, not 240V. I suspect this is a normal burial wire.  The extra wire that should be going to the other bus is wired to the ground so it is a hot, natural, and 2 grounds. At the other end in the ground, the extra ground is taped off and not being used. Once it spliced it looks like thy use 12/2 wire, non-burial wire, and ran it the last 14 feet. This wire feeds the shop with about 5 plugs and 2 separate light switches.


texts:
How do I wire a  Deta double power point with extra switch.

I am replacing the double power point and putting in the
Deta double power point with extra switch.

Thanks in advance

TMac.


texts: How to prep wiring for new lights in basement ceiling?

texts:
I have an old, fully finished, basement and I want to install new recessed lighting in the ceiling. My biggest scare is in wiring. Where and how can I find the necessary wires and run them through to the ceiling as well as to the different locations where I want the light switches to be?

In reading online I guess I need to start off from an outlet, but what next? If I need to run wires through floor joists (from the floor above) and wall studs, do I need to remove all the drywall that goes from the light source(s) to the switches, in order to properly drill and pass the cables through? Or is there another way that I'm missing?


texts: Broken/missing vertical sliding window pin

texts:
One of two windows in a room of my house is broken, has been since before I moved in. It will lift/slide open, but without any assistance from the spring mechanism that normally takes a lot of the weight off the user.

On closer inspection, the problem seems to be that the points where the window would rest in the spring mechanism are missing and broken on that window (missing on one side, snapped off on the other).

I cannot find a brand anywhere on the windows, including in between the glass, so I'll have to resort to seeing if anyone recognizes these parts.

So, anyone recognize these little steel bits? Even a brand on the windows would be helpful!

The 'good' side

The sliding component that these pins should be sitting in

The broken pin on the broken window (the other side on this window is missing outright)


texts: Stair skirt board protruding from wall by ~1/4" - can I use a belt sander to sand it down?

texts:
I'm doing my own stairs remod - long story short, I'm regretting it. It looked deceptively easy, but I've regretted it and I have a bunch of little errors that are adding up.

One such mistake is that the skirt board is in, can't be removed and it protrudes from the wall by a little less than 1/4 of an inch.

How would someone who knows what they're doing try to get rid of this protrusion so it's flush with the wall it's against? I'm afraid sawing will be sloppy (especially if I do it). Would a belt sander work?


texts: Replacing cast iron hot water floor standing radiator with wall mounted type

texts: How does one size the replacement radiator to approximate the old radiator output, or should I just do a heating btu calculation from the room dimensions?


texts: What areas of 1st floor sheetrock sould be replaced subsequnet to a major 2nd floor water leak?

texts:
In our apartment, the ceiling began leaking in 2 places. One of the places, the water was brownish and had multiple droplets, the other the water was clear. We called maintenance at 8 am and no one showed. As time went, the leak went from 2 spots to 6 places in the ceiling, water also began running down the wall in 4 places and began pooling around the toilet, about 1 inch. At some point the paint on the wall fell away and water began running like a faucet.

Finally at 4pm maintenance shows and cuts 2 large holes in the ceiling. 30 mins later, he was done and said they would come replace only the places where he cut away. My concern is that they didn't cut into the wall, where we have heard water running in the past, but was told that it was just the pipes. If that much water was running and pooling in the walls, shouldn't the wall and whole ceiling be replaced ? What about mold? They left no dryers and said they would be back in 2 days to close everything up.

What should I do? Should the floor be replaced too since the water was pooled for so long?


texts: I am building a 24'X30' garage that will have a guest space above. The service to the main building is 200Amp. The garage will include small appliances heat and a/c. There will be an efficiency washer dryer as well. It's not an apartment meant for full time use. How do I know if the service needs to be upgraded? I was under the impression from one electrician that there was no need. However the contractor is saying it may need to be upgraded. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Are backflow preventers for irrigation required to be lead-free if the upstream source is a potable water system?

texts:
In accordance with the Safe Drinking Water Act is a backflow preventer, such as this pressure vacuum breaker (that contains lead), required to be lead-free? I am confused by section 300g-6 which prohibits the use of non lead-free fixtures in "any public water system". Does this mean it must be completely isolated from the public water system, or just that no downstream system can be used for human consumption?

Relevant text from the Safe Drinking Water Act:

  § 300g–6. Prohibition on use of lead pipes, solder, and flux

  a) In general

  (1) Prohibitions

  (A) In general

  No person may use any pipe,
  any pipe or plumbing fitting or fixture, any solder, or any flux,
  after June 19, 1986, in the installation or repair of—

    (i) any public water system; or

    (ii) any plumbing in a residential or nonresidential facility providing water for human consumption

  that is not lead free (within the meaning of subsection (d) of this section).


texts: I have a 200 amp combination disconnect and 10 circuit panel on the pole feeding my 200 amp panel in my house. Is the panel on my pole considered my main panel and the one in my house a sub-panel requiring me to seperate my ground and neutral? I have run 4-wire underground to my home and was planning on separating the ground and neutral. What do you think? Would love some feedback. Thanks


texts: Attaching surface mount deck railing posts directly above a 5 1/8" Rim joist

texts:
eI am installing a deck railing that will be directly above 5 1/8" x 11" glue laminated deck beam along the front of the deck.  Along the sides of the deck, it will be doubled up 2x10 joists.

I can't find any documentation about if an aluminum post can mount directly into the beam.  Everything I can find is for an alignment that is offset from a smaller joist and uses blocking.  Can I safely install these using 8" lag screws directly into the beam?

On the 2x10s, one side of the post would align with the joists, which I would like to use lag screws on, while the other side would need blocking.  Is that appropriate?

This is for a residential structure, in Utah, USA if any of that makes a difference.


texts:
I am trying to install a new smart thermostat and the control wire is not working     (it controlled the heat fine in the winter.)
I came out to my air handler and this is the wiring I’m looking at and need help.
Can anyone tell me if this is worth trying to do my self or should I call?
file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/a4/04/BF222EFD-41B6-4DB4-A4EE-3B96FBC9FD12/63908660703__420E202F-1BAB-46B6-99D2-36C7959E96E9.HEIC


texts:
What is the name of bracket type where a shelf sits in a closet or space between two walls but only flat wooden bars screwed into the wall on each side are holding it up rather than brackets? And what is the trick to doing these? A certain type of wood? A ratio of weight to thickness?
Thanks for any help. I don't even know what to call these when I search.

I've got an alcove with a door and I'd like to put a shelf above the door and in another part of the alcove. Walls are pretty close together, maybe 75cm - 1m.


texts: Bent prong on my stove top Burner element - still work if I bend it back

texts:
I have an old electric stove top. The burner is going bad so a bought a new one online and the prongs were bent. My question is if I straighten them will it still work well. What is the inner part of the burner element? Is it wire or can it handle being bent? I don't know how the heating element works. I don't want to go through removing the old one to put one on that won't work any better. I already bent them back so can't really tell the EBAY guy it was bent when I can't show a picture. So might be stuck with it so wondering if it will still work like it is supposed to. Here is a link to the item I bought. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162201812960?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - If that doesn't work it is like this product - http://www.partselect.com/PS244048-GE-WB30X354-Tilt-Lock-Hinge-Mounted-Surface-Burner-8.htm

Basically - two of the prongs (ones on the left were bent -one slightly the other almost 90 degrees) I bent them straight and I'm asking if it will work as it should. Thanks


texts: Strange Breaker Behavior with Treadmill Electronics

texts:
I have a brand new walking treadmill that triggers circuit breakers when the treadmill electronics are powered on but when the treadmill motor is NOT running. The strange thing is that it triggers circuit breakers on circuits it is NOT plugged into.
My office and living room are on separate circuits. I plug the treadmill into a socket in my office and power on the electronics (but not the treadmill motor) and the living room breaker is triggered. Sometimes it happens immediately, sometimes it takes a few minutes, sometimes it doesn't happen for at least 30 minutes (so far at this point even with the motor running with me walking on it).
On one occasion it did trigger the office breaker while plugged into an outlet in the office (but this has only happened once, whereas the living room circuit has triggered instead on about 10 other tests).
UPDATE: Running the motor seems to prevent the circuit breakers from trigering. I walked on the treadmill for about an hour and a half and the breaker only triggered a few minutes after I switched the motor off but left the electronics on.
UPDATE: Pictures of breakers


texts: Switching from dimmer to single pole, how would I do this?

texts: I haven't seen something like this before and was wondering if anyone had any idea how I would switch something like this to a single pole light switch.


texts: Water on basement floor and attempting to fix with mortar?

texts:
I have waterproofed my basement completely for three sides (digging and using membrane and installing weeping tile), but for the remaining side which is a sidewalk, it would be too expensive to bust all the concrete. For the sidewalk, I have sealed the edge between the sidewalk and where it touches my house from the outside.

But for a section of the side walk side inside the house, I have seen water still accumulates after raining. I have ripped out the wall, and found no cracks on that wall (just some honey comb), and it looks as though the water came from the bottom of the wall (but I see no obvious cracks).

I have asked a contractor (foundation/concrete guy) and he said he can put special mix of mortar at the corner at the end of that wall.

My question is, what do you think causes the water in that section to accumulates? And do you think the contractor's mortar advise is the way to go?


texts: What size breaker is required for a 220v 50w tool?

texts: I have a wood burner with a regular plug, but it said 220v with 50watt. What size breaker do I need?


texts: Need to level OSB board for LVP, pros and cons of using roofing shingles?

texts:
I am looking into inexpensive options to level OSB for installing luxury vinyl planks.
I read an article that talks about using roofing shingles to level out subfloors before installing hardwood.
I am wondering if this could work for leveling the OSB under the carpeting I ripped up in a mobile home.
I looked into self levelling compounds, but I could only find one that works on OSB and it's expensive for the amount of leveling that it's possibly going to need.
If shingles could work, would they have to be screwed down as they could shift under floating vinyl planks?
Does anyone have any experience with this method?
What pros or cons could there be for using roof shingles?
ADDITIONAL INFO:
There is no moisture problem. I would say the problem areas are unlevel due to installation.
Adding pics. First two pics are a section 4 feet by 4 inches Looks like the board was put there to fill a gap for reasons unknown. It's not level and it's tilted toward the wall.

Marriage wall gap that runs through one half the trailer. it's about 2 inches deep.
The marriage wall in the other half. It's wavy and uneven. Don't know what to do about that either. I fear it may affect the LVP over time.
This section runs about 4" x 4". Thanks!


texts: having trouble with the wiring of a meross smart switch install. Smart switch on left controls chandelier and the right is a two way switch.


texts: Mounting a pull up bar on hollow concrete block wall

texts:
I’m trying to mount a Pull-up bar like this one on a hollow concrete block wall.

I’m planning on using some concrete sleeve anchors, but I also have seen people anchor some wood planks into the wall and then the pull-up bar through the wood into the concrete wall.
Would the concrete sleeve anchors be enough or should I also use wood/something else?
The pull up bar needs to support a little bit more than 200 lbs/90 kg (my own weight + maybe a weighted vests). I do not have access to the other side of the wall.


texts:
We have a lamp in our bedroom which has a wheel switch on the power cord to turn the lamp on or off.

Recently, the lamp has been flickering if the cord wheel switch is touched.  When the switch & housing are positioned correctly, the light is on and steady, but when it is twisted slightly (the housing, not the wheel) the light will either flicker or turn off entirely.

It seems like it might be a short in the connection between the switch and the cord.  If so, I feel like that should be a fairly straightforward fix - disassemble the housing, fix the connection, and put the housing back together.

Is this the case?  If so, how do I identify the problematic connection, and how do I fix it?


texts: How can I prevent water from puddling in a play area?

texts:
We have clay in our yard. I have spent a good two hours digging out the square space under our slide area of our swing set. I dug deep enough to have deep enough sand for the kids. However, due to the clay bottom I'm concerned in getting standing water inside after rain or when using the hose. What can I do to ensure drainage? Any suggestions? I'm ready to put weed fabric down then sand. Our swing sets sits on a bank so there is a slope behind the set itself.

Thank you.


texts: want to replace my old 3 way light switch

texts:
I bought slide dimmer FEIT and want to replace my old stairs basement light switch, however I am not getting how the current wiring is done
I am attaching the current diagram ( I am bad in diagrams )

new switch ( slide dimmer) has 4 wires : 1 black 2 red and 1 green
I assume my current setup has not a ground ?
A1 and B2 are always hot
A3 and B1 are hot only when then light is on
A2 and B3 noting even light is on or off
so my question :
is the wiring should be like this

A1 ( 2 black) to Black dimmer

A2 ( white) to Red dimmer

A3 (black) to Red dimmer

B2 ( white ) to Black dimmer

B1 ( red ) to Red dimmer

B3 ( black) to Red dimmer

the green dimmer wire will be left unplugged
Thanks in advance


texts: I'm in the process of making my home a "smart" home. The new outlets are not a problem as they merely plug into existing outlets. The switches, however are something different. They require a ground wire. My home was built in the early 50s and has only 2 wires (white, and black). My question is this, the wires are run in romex, and I've read from other posts that conduit can act as a ground. Is it the same with Romex as it is metal too.


texts: What hose do I use to connect my GE dishwasher to my sink's 3/4" Tee?

texts: I recently purchased a new GE dishwasher to replace our old dishwasher. The model we bought is GDF530PGMWW. It comes with a drain hose attached (see image), and it comes with an extension hose. The sink end of the extension hose does not fit the existing Tee on our sink's drain. I purchased a universal drain hose from Home Depot and that fits on the sink's Tee (3/4"), but not on the end of the dishwasher's drain hose. Is there some kind of adapter that can change the size? It appears the drain hose that's attached is 7/8".


texts: How to deal with a small concrete patch in hardwood floor install

texts:
I am installing 3/4 inch oak throughout my first floor. The install is over the original pine, which sits directly on the joists. I put 1/4 OSB over the pine (due to a number of factors 5/8" wasn't practical).

I removed a tile hearth pad where there used to be a fireplace. That left me with a roughly 2 ft x 5 ft concrete patch that I had to deal with. I placed 1/4 hardiebacker concrete board to get it roughly even with the floor and then patching compound to level it out. There is also 1/4 OSB over the patch area, which I secured with concrete screws. The long side of the patch runs perpendicular to the floor boards against a wall.

What is the least-bad way of securing the hardwood over that patch? I'm a relative newbie to this, so any insights are very much appreciated!


texts: Installing spotlights but hole in ceiling is too big

texts:
I bought 4 of these bad boys which I want to attach to my concrete ceiling (Oriel Baril LED Adjustable Spotlight). They are pretty lightweight.

Mounting cup diameter is 80mm

However, the mounting cup internal bracket screw hole distance is just 46mm

Here's the snag: The ceiling hole diameter is 60mm and too wide, so I'm missing some ceiling to screw into. With this width I can only get a single screw in.

What are my options?


texts: Should my carbon monoxide detector be reporting zero PPM?

texts:
I've got a Carbon monoxide detector hanging in my kitchen for a few years now. Lately I've noticed it reads a PPM of 0 (zero). Is this right? Doesn't the air contains around 400 ppm?

In other words, is my detector even working? I'm getting the feeling I should throw it out.


texts: After power outages the same type of light bulbs don't work anymore

texts: Wind knocked out electricity multiple times today and  my light bulbs were very dim or not working and I replaced with a new same bulb but does not work even though the old one that's dim still works just very dim and my central heater motor blower went out. Is this normal?


texts: Ceiling fan replacement, one wire is always hot

texts:
So when we moved into our place, the dining room light was always on unless you used the pull cord to turn it off, the wall switch did nothing. Replaced the switch, no change.

Trying to change out the fixture for a regular chandelier(no pull cord) so we need this switch to function.

Inside switch we have incoming power one black, one white and ground, also have wire going to light fixture, one black, one white, one red, and ground.  The problem we are having is if we put power to the black, the red gets power, even if it's not hooked up at either end. How is this red getting power?


texts: I have a fireplace that was added to the house after it was built, and when I’m using my wood burning fireplace I noticed some sort of smoke coming out of my high hats (recessed lighting). I have opened my ceiling and stuck a fire alarm in the hole to see if it was actual smoke, but the alarm did not go off. Do you know what can it be?


texts: I have to move a refregerator with Ice maker to a different room. There is no water line there. I am ok with out icemaker in that room. My concern is can I run a refregerator with ice maker with out a water line ? Does it cause any problem to the equipment ?


texts: Would the "Nest" thermostat work outside US?

texts:
Looking at this Nest question reminded me that I'd really want one of these for my future house. The Nest website says that it's currently only available in the US but I'm wondering whether that is just a sales/marketing choice of if there might be technical reasons for the US limitation.

The Nest website has a widget where you can tick what cables you've got and it then tells you whether the Nest will work with that. I'm not sure that these cable markings/colors are international though. I would get a Vaillant gas heater very similar to this one.

At $250 it's just expensive enough that I hesitate to just order one and try if it works. Even if I did, I would also be afraid of damaging it by connecting the wires wrong.

Do the markings/colors on cables of gas heaters/thermostats follow an international standard?
Can I expect that a Nest would work in Europe, when connected to a European brand model?


texts:
So, the termites in Arizona live in the ground, and they make mud tunnels up the side of the foundation of a house to get into the wood. I was thinking, if I make a plastic lip which curls down, and glue it to the side of the foundation, then I could prevent termites from being able to build their mud tunnels up to the house.

I'm thinking something like what's in this image:

...only turned over so it curls down, and maybe a bit sharper so it's hard to get around the lip.

Your thoughts? Anybody sure this won't work?


texts: House water inlet thread sizing 1" vs 3/4"

texts:
I'm planning water inlet for house:

For 2-4 people
300m2 garden watering system ocasionaly (there is seperate garden water inlet as well)
Water comes in via 32mm PE pipe (internal diameter 26 mm ~ 1") from shared deep well pump.

Main question now - what should all inlet system connection sizes be? Valves, regulators, expansion reservoir (1" connector), check valves, meter, particle filter, water softener filter (1" connectors), etc., not including branch-off to kitchen/bathroom that would be different sized. My initial thought was 1", but some of those are more widely listed as 3/4" in local shops (regulators, meters).
Will 3/4" give any noticeable bottlenecks here? Should I go all 1" here?


texts:
A year and half ago I set up my sub panel around the back side of my home for pool equipment and further outlets and patio lighting/fans.
I set 3x #3 copper THHN in a 1.25 ENT in the ground from my main panel (new '08) approx 170 feet around the back of my home to the other side of my home for a new QO load center run by a 2 pole 80 amp breaker in my 200 amp panel.
I didn't find that I needed to run the ground from the sub to the service main,only that the sub needs its own ground and the bond screw in the sub is removed.
Now I'm seeing that I do NOT meet code by not having the sub ground connected to the service main.
What would be the best way to upgrade this oversight?
Can I connect and bury a ground wire (#4 copper) to my ground rod for my sub and run it in the ground, not in a conduit, around to the ground rod for service main? I know where the rod is located.
Or must I run that ground into the main service panel to connect to the ground bar in the main panel?

I did not use ENT, I used rigid PVC electrical conduit and fittings glued together buried 18 in down all the way around my house through the walls and into the service panel. I was thinking about ENT while typing and didn't catch that I used an 80 amp Eaton breaker in my 200 amp main service panel. The QO load center I put in is rated to 200 amp but I didn't need that much, but I intended on over sizing the feeder wire to be good on wire size. I don't need 100 amps on that sub right now so 80 should be fine. The 1.25 pipe has a number of turns in it so I can see challenges getting through it, and the 3 wires may be twisted at some point.
QUESTION: Would I need to pull out all three wires while pulling in a pull cord, then reset to pull the three and the ground after that?


texts: Should I build risers and treads out of hard wood floor pieces

texts:
I've purchased some hard wood flooring to go throughout my entire house. The pieces for the stairs are extremely expensive and are just too much for my budget. It was suggested to me by the sales guy that I could "just build my own out of hardwood floor pieces". He has "nose" pieces (3" wide by 8' long) that I can attach to 2 or 3 pieces of hardwood floor that I can use to just build my own tread, and then build my own risers out of a few pieces as well. This will be significantly cheaper.

This is a sales guy though, so, I can throw him further than I can trust him. Will it look good (or even work) for me to do this? Should I just forget the stairs and leave the carpet on them? I spent a bit looking online for tutorials/etc on how to build your own treads and risers and I couldn't find anyone really doing (or recommending) that you do this.


texts: Plastic sun blocking curtain ("pulldown") for glass doors?

texts:
I have reflective UV / sun blocking coverings for the windows of my home. They're fantastic for blocking the sun since it's blasted during the day AND offers great privacy during the day. They're basically two way mirrors during the day.

I have a glass storm door that we'd like to do something similar with, but sometimes we don't want to block the view. (Ie, night time warrants seeing through it and so do cloudy days, etc.)

Are there any such options that would offer a plastic or polymer based two way mirror curtain that can be pulled down and put up at will? Have had no luck hunting down such a solution as of yet...

If nothing like this exists, would it be something that can be built? I realize it would be pretty tricky, but perhaps something like vinyl blinds made of such a material would work.


texts:
I have 2 UPS of the exact same model. In one UPS, all of my Type B Plugs would not fit
In the first image, the hole on the socket is on the edge. My Type B Plugs (3 pin) would not fit. On the second image, the hole on the socket is on the middle and my Type B Plugs (3 pin) would fit. For reference, the last image shows what a Type B Plug looks like.

Edit: As it might be a "Fake" I included the picture of the serial number of the back of each UPS.
The first image shown is the UPS' serial with the plug that fits. The second image shown is the UPS' serial where the plug does not fit.


texts: Is there a benefit to cutting a 2x4 in two passes of a mitre saw?

texts:
So I was just watching Holmes on Homes, and they were showing a quick close-up of cutting a 2x4, making two passes, cutting the top half first, then finishing it off:

I've never seen (or at least noticed) anyone do it this way before, nor can I find any info on it. I usually just cut straight down, or go across the whole board in one pass. Is there some benefit to doing it this way? What's the "proper" way to cut through dimensional lumber?


texts:
I have a 2x4 wood rail between two 4x4 wood columns. It looks something like the drawing below:

The 2x4 rail is warping a little bit, so I want to attach a 2x4 under it so that it can straighten the rail. But I don't want to use screws that will be seen from the top of the rail.

What can I do to securely attach a 2x4 under the 2x4 rail without having to drill at the top of the rail? Or is there a better way to straighten the 2x4 rail?


texts: How can I remove the cap from my chlorine feeder?

texts: Chlorine feeder cap broke while attempting to remove it. Pool had been shut off for 2 weeks. It feels like there is a vacuum inside the feeder. I used a 2x4 across the cap fins for leverage, but one fin broke off. I also broke the PVC fittings connected to the feeder. Cap didn't come off yet. How do I get rid of the suction? I tried everything I read on this post so far.


texts: I've been applying some adhesive-backed veneer to some shop cabinets just to get some practice since I've never done it before. Didn't have much trouble getting it on, but trimming it has been another story.  I've tried going nice and slow with a utility knife with a new blade, and then I tried one of the double-edge trimmers that you squeeze and slide along the edge. Both have had terrible results. Even when I'm not getting tear-out or splintering the resulting edge has a distinct waviness to it (ok, just the tear-out and splintering when using the trimming tool). How can I get results I can stand to look at?


texts: How should I connect my dishwasher if the wires are yellow and blue?

texts: I am installing a dishwasher, the household connection has a yellow and blue wire, while the dishwasher has a black and white. Which one should i connect to the white and black?


texts: I am trying to get some extra space in my panel and am having a hard time finding a tandem breaker that will fit in this box (see photo), can anyone help?


texts: How can I repair a tiny puncture in leather?

texts:
I rolled the back of my leather chair into the corner of a table and ended up with a tiny puncture maybe a millimetre or two across. Normally, damage like this wouldn't bother me but my chair is regularly walked past and I'm worried that something will snag in the leather and result in a larger tear.

See the damage below:

Does anyone have any tips for repairing tiny punctures like this? My priority is preventing further damage but preferably I'd like it to look as inconspicuous as possible.

All the advice that I have already seen online seems to involve inserting a patch into the tear and glueing the two edges down on to the patch. But this damage is too small for me to insert anything in to without making it larger first.


texts: How do I prevent condensation on my balcony windows?

texts:
On the street, temperatures at night are about -5 °С and about 8 °C during the day. In the apartment it is about 25 °C. So, there is condensation on the windows and I don't want to wipe the windows every time.

How do I prevent condensation on the balcony windows?


texts:
Can I run direct burial line in a conduit from the ground to the electrical box? Just the 4 or 5 feet from ground to box? Can I run it in conduit above ground along the building for 20 feet? The is the wire:
https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/2-2-2-4-dyke-underground-secondary-distribution-cable.html


texts:
I have a roughly 6" crack on one of my top fiberglass pool steps that slowly allows the water level to drain below the optimal level for the skimmer.

I've found some years old suggested techniques for repairing it but am curious with the introduction of products like "flex seal" and similar things if there isn't a better, easier, more efficient/effective way of repairing it today. Was hoping someone could offer some insight.

Things I have to consider for this repair:

-- The surface is dimpled and not flat.

-- I'll also be converting the pool to saltwater from chlorine after this repair is in place in case that might effect what products to use.

-- I live in midwest USA, winters can sometimes be severe, however during the winter the water level is far below the step with the crack.

Looking for a long-term and effective solution if anyone has any tips to share they would be greatly appreciated. It doesn't necessarily have to look pretty, just has to work reliably.

Cheers


texts: Is a back flow valve needed to attach a washing machine?

texts:
I want to attach a washing machine to my apartment's water supply.

The washing machine is simple and has one inlet and no internal heater. The apartment has both hot and cold water.

I plan to attach some extra pipes via T connectors after the cut-off valves which connect a faucet to the hot and cold pipes. I plan to mix the water using something like this two-inlet valve.

The question: do I need to add back flow / check valves to prevent the flow from hot pipe to cold, or vice versa? If I do, what kind of valves these should be?

Update: this device looks purpose-built for that.


texts: I'm trying to replace broken lamp part, but have no idea how to wire G9 ceramic socket base like presented below. How to attach wires inside these little holes? Is there some additional parts - plugs maybe?


texts: Why won't my washer machine motor, gearbox, or inside basket free spin

texts:
I have a Whirlpool model# LSR8233EQ0 washing machine. Not sure which one of the components in the question title are causing the issue. I've found that it could be any of them.

The machine recently stopped spinning in any cycle. I've had this issue before so I knew it was the motor coupling. I thought, or the guy at the parts store said, that was generally caused by overloading it. Upon taking the load out that it broke on it surely seemed possible.

When I went to remount the motor I noticed it was difficult to spin the shaft with my hands to align it with the water pump. I actually needed to use my pliers. It seemed strange but couldn't remember if that was the case the last time I had to replace one.

Note:
 The motor shaft spun easily, by hand, prior to being attached to the gearbox. I'm not sure if after connecting the motor to the gearbox it's normal for it to give some resistance.

After the job was done I started the machine up and it seemed to be sluggish starting up. It didn't make any obvious noises and seemed to come up to normal speed in a short amount of time.

I began to test it out with the lid open with me activating the lid switch with a screw driver. The problem is when I release the lid switch the motor continues around a seemingly small angle then abruptly stops. This, I know, is not normal. The inside basket should continue to spin freely. I suppose this is where the question get hazy. I've read that it could be a seized bearing between the inner and outer baskets.

I've looked elsewhere on the internet and came with some similar issues dealing with spinning but none exactly like this. Most led to advice dealing with the motor and gearbox and one concerning the baskets but recommended to call a technician for these issues. I have a feeling the cost to repair it would be more than it's worth.

So my question is -
Can this problem be deduced to the gearbox based on the information I've given? How much does a rebuilt gearbox typically cost. Is the gearbox easily replaced (mounting/unmounting)? Can an issue with the motor be 100% ruled out?

Side notes:
I haven't tested the agitation cycle because if it's not the motor I'd prefer not burning it out figuring out there's nothing wrong with it and would like to keep my brand new motor coupling in tact.

Any advice or links to info would be great!


texts: How to properly drill new holes in metal door for installing new door hinges?

texts: I need to replace some old door hinges and the current hinges only have 2 of the 4 holes drilled. I am installing 4x4 self closing hinges and want to have all the screws installed. Problem is I did a dry run on a different door and the machined screws don’t pull the hinge to the door tightly, they get to a certain point and just spin. Obviously I don’t know what I’m doing. I’d like to know what equipment I need, what size screws, what size bits, the works. The door is a residential door, most likely hollow with insulation on the inside.


texts: Lightbulb where the thread is 11.5 mm across - would that be likely to be E11 or E12?

texts: I have a screw thread lightbulb where the thread is 11.5 mm across - would that be likely to be E11 or E12? Or something else? Thanks.


texts:
i am looking to run a 60mm by 60mm 12v 0.22A fan for 2 to 3 mins with no power after it is shut down. It is needed i case of a power failer. What is the best way?
Also want to run fan after shutdown to cool element


texts:
I have a double pole 30 amp breaker controlling a 230 volt load that I need to replace.  I cannot obtain one at this moment; perhaps tomorrow but maybe next week.

Either way, I have two good used 30 amp breakers that I could put in place of the 30 amp double pole.

Will it be okay for me to do this if I take the tie bar off of the old breaker and re-use it?

I have already pulled the tie bar off and have the two breakers ready to go.  Hoping that this will be okay!


texts:
we have an issue were our downlights have a dim glow when switched off.

electrician has been back to replace downlights but no success. glow doesnt happen every night, often a big gap in between glowing.
tested the wiring and shows anywhere up to 3 volts through the active wire when switched off.

is it normal to have up to 3 volts running through the active wire? and is this enough to cause an LED downlight to glow.

cheers


texts:
Moved into a new house built in the 1970's and discovered that the sump pump was not operational. I replaced the sump pump, re-attached everything, and poured water into the dry sump pit to test operation. The curious thing was that the sump pit did not retain any water. It drained the 6 or so gallons of water I poured in just a few minutes.
The bottom of the sump pit is concrete, but it is clearly porous to some degree. I guess my question is: is this cause for concern?
My suspicion is that this is not cause for concern. My reasoning is that since some sump pits are gravel, I would assume that water draining out the bottom of the pit is normal and acceptable. Zone of saturation could be low at the moment, etc.
Discussion on this question leads me to believe that this is okay and not cause for concern but I cannot find anything addressing this specific question.


texts: Is it OK to drill vertically through a joist?

texts:
I just bought a new house and I'm looking to run some cables. One of the areas I would like to run it to would require drilling through a 2x10 sistered joist. Realizing that going through the joist should be a last resort, if the hole is 1/4" and in the middle of one of the joists will this weaken the integrity?

I have seen lots of articles about drilling through the depth of a joist, but very few regarding drilling vertically.


texts: How to find and fix a bad smell of moisture?

texts: We just bought a 3-year old house and there is an odd smell of moisture in the master bedroom and attached bathroom.  It smells like someone just took a shower although the house has not been used in 10 days.  During those 10 days, the central air conditioning was set at 80 degrees.  We can't locate the source of the smell as you get used to the smell pretty quickly.  We noticed the smell during our visits before buying the home, but it seemed like it could easily be coming from their items or having just showered.  The master bedroom and bathroom are on the 2nd floor of a 3-story townhouse.


texts: How effective is elevated concrete for insulating moisture?

texts: I am replacing a boiler in my basement and the contractor told me it will be better for the new boiler if he build an elevated concrete platform on which the new boiler will sit.  He says this will reduce the moisture to the new boiler, does this make sense to any of you?  My thinking is, since this elevated concrete platform is connected/sitting on the basement floor which is also concrete, doesn't the moisture travels up this platform as well, and even if this elevated platform is higher than the concrete floor, the effectiveness of insulating moisture is sabotages by the connection which the platform and the ground shares?  Thanks for any valuable input.


texts:
I am updating the electrical in my garage. Right now, it has two GFCI 120v outlets, one on the outdoor outlets circuit and the other on the garage opener circuit. I am looking to add locking 240v outlets, and have two questions about it.

1. Can I install a NEMA 6-20 outlet, and connect a device shipped with a NEMA 6-15 connector, provided I change the connector to 6-20?

2. Can I install NEMA 14-20 outlets, and disregard the unused leg for different voltages? i.e. connect a plug to the outlet, and not wire the neutral to anything for 240, not wire anything to the second hot for 120.

Item 1 would be convenient because I wouldn't have to install both NEMA 6-15 and NEMA 6-20 outlets, and item 2 would be nice because I could wire 120v devices as locking with existing outlets.

EDIT: I'm talking about locking versions of these outlets.


texts: Maytag Model- La612 Series 04 fills up on it's on and then starts running by it's self

texts: My friend has an old Maytag washer and the other night it filled up on its in and just turned on and started running scaring her half to death. I am thinking the water inlet valve, but I can't understand why the washer is running on its on if it is switched off. Any ideas??


texts: How do I wire a hard-wired wall switch and a remote for my ceiling fan/light?

texts:
I have installed a ceiling fan/light in my living room where only a light fixture used to be.  The room is large and with a high ceiling so getting up to change the fan setting and dimming the light is a pain.  And a pull chain is not an option or a feature of the fan.  I currently have a remote and receiver in the canopy.  This is great, except for walking into the room when it is dark as I knock everything over searching for the remote.

What I would like to do is have a wall switch that will turn the fan and light on and off separately, AND have the remote in the room that also has full control to turn the light and fan on and off, but I don't think that is possible.  If I'm wrong please let me know.

So my second desire, which I hope is possible, is to have the light controlled (on/off/dim) by a hard-wired wall switch and the remote, and the fan wired hot and controlled by the remote.  The fan is a Hunter 3-speed.

About the installation:

The current wiring is with 12/2 romex (with ground).
I have access to the entire circuit, fan junction box, and wall switch from the ceiling/attic above.
The fan, remote, and canopy receiver are all Hunter.
I've attached pictures of the switch hardware that I'm working with (alternative suggestions welcomed).

Thanks Fellas,
Evan


texts: Can I use an old chimney as a electrical chase

texts:
TLDR:
Are there any code/cost reasons we couldn't run BX/romex to our attic through an old disconnected chimney?

Long Question:
I will be closing on a house shortly and there is a hole in the attic floor where the house's original chimney used to run (the chimney has been removed down to the attic floor). The attic is finished but run-down and we plan to eventually renovate it; but there is limited electrical. Before we move all of our furniture in we were going to have a contractor refinish the floors and replace any soft spots or holes, but this seems like a perfect chase for electrical and I was considering bringing in an electrician to run an extra circuit to the attic before we cover it up. Would there be a code problem running through an old chimney like this? Or alternatively would there be another reason this would be worse than trying to fish a cable up past two stories of nice old lath and plaster walls?


texts: How can I replace this connection? (sprinkler system)

texts: So this connection sprung a leak sometime over the winter, I need to add tape to it or replace the connector.  How can I get the metal loops off?  They aren't the kind that has a screw to loosen/tighten


texts: What are some quick and affordable insulation solutions for a shed?

texts:
I'd like to use my wood shop in the winter. It's a detached, 20x14 shed and I installed a 5000watt garage heater already but it takes a while (hours) to heat up and it's probably very wasteful since there is no insulation. I'm looking for the best place to start to help heat it up quicker and keep it warm longer. The walls are 2x4 studs so I could use bats and the ceiling is gabled with storage above. I did noticed that it appears the eves are open vented too so heat is probably just rising right up and out the eaves, is it okay to block these?

I'm in New England so it gets pretty cold, it's about 19F right now. Ideally I'd like to work comfortably when it's 30F>

I'm worried if I add bat insulation I'll have to cover it which adds to the expense not to mention at like $40/section it would cost a lot to do the walls let alone the ceiling.

Update with picture.

Could I vault the ceiling so it stays vented but still gives me space up there? Basically insulated with rigid foam and plywood up the rafters?


texts: I have a forced air system in my new home. The heat and air conditioning are unbalanced. How do I fix it?

texts:
I reversed damper configuration as were instructed when we bought the house now that its getting hotter out. Unfortunately the upstairs is much hotter then the downstairs. More specifically we are having a hard time keeping the nursery cool.
Is there anything that I can try that is not too invasive? Ive already tried opening and closing the returns in each room accordingly but that has not helped.
Thanks


texts: I'm looking for something mid-range that works well in summer/winter. Should I be leaning towards composite or vinyl?


texts: What adhesive do I use to mount a glass pane in shed?

texts:
I’m replacing a shattered pane of glass in my shed. When removing the pane I noticed it was held in with some adhesive, in addition to the plastic that was pushing the pane up against an aluminum frame.
I’m just wondering what kind of tape or sealant I’m supposed to use when putting the new pane in.
Here’s a picture of what was on the original glass.


texts: Central heat ducts(the ends that are attached to registers) in attic not securely attached to attic floor/room ceiling. How to secure?

texts:
When I removed the registers in the ceiling of our house I noticed that the ducting in the ceiling was totally loose. They are not secured in any way. The two screws of the register was what was holding them in place.

What is the proper way to secure those final duct connections (the ones that the register is attached to) in the attic? Screw them down to the attic floor?

We have flexible ducting. The end of the duct is attached to rigid pieces.


texts: I have good airflow and a very dusty house and large dust balls. I have used all kinds of filters including the pleated. When filters are checked in 3-6 months they are as clean as the day they were installed. I have filtered the vent in the bedroom to see if there was a hole in the duct, no dirt on the filter. Any suggestions?


texts: I had an electrician come and change my outdoor outlet. He replaced it with a weatherproof GFI. It worked for 1 day and stopped working. I called him numerous times to come back but he would mot come. I got very frustrated and decided to see for my self what the problem was. It seems everything is fine as in the picture. My question is, from the picture is the wiring done properly ( I do not have any experience with this). IF yes I plane to purchase a new outlet and change it.