texts: How to determine what 3-way switch system was used?

texts:
How can I tell if an old Knob & Tube 3-way switch is still legal by the modern NEC?  Specifically I am trying to tell if my switch is a "California 3-way" (or "Coast 3-way", "Hollywood 3-way", etc.) or if it is a Carter 3-way (see Wikipedia's descriptions here).

My house has a bit of Knob & Tube still in use (maybe 25%). As part of my bathroom project I have some "extra" access to walls I don't normally have open and easy access down to the basement. While this is open, should I go ahead and replace a 3-way switch.

One reason I don't really want to do this is I am already moving more and more outlets off of these circuits so I am less concerned about over loading. But mostly I don't want to because this 3-way controls 2 lights in my stairwell (one on the landing and one on the second floor) with a switch down on the 1st floor and the other on the 2nd floor. Because of this it would be pretty destructive to get to all of these locations. On the other hand, if it is really dangerous (i.e., the "Carter System") I might just go ahead and do it.

Update: My switch is not a "Carter 3-way".  Which I guess is good, since these have been "prohibited by the National Electrical Code since 1923" (according to Wikipedia) and my house was built in 1926.  My Knob & Tube is also copper so that is good since I am pretty sure it is connected to standard "copper compatible" receptacles and switches. For now this is staying in the house as one of the last 2 circuits that is still K&T.


texts: Trane XV80 missing "C" wire at thermostat

texts:
I have a Trane XV80 with a 2 stage motor.  I'm replacing a Trane TCONT803AS32DAA thermostat with a Honeywell wifi thermostat thinking it would be an easy switch out.  However, the older thermostat had 5 wires; Red = "R" with an "RC" jumper, Yellow = "Y", Green = "G", White = "W1", Blue = "W2".

The Honeywell instructions said to use the Green as "C", then on the furnace control box change Green from "G" to "C" and jumper the "Y" and "G".  But the furnace control has a white wire coming from "B/C", make 2 white wires coming from the furnace.  All of the other wires seem to correspond with the thermostat wiring.

Any idea on what happened to the "B/C" wire from the furnace?  It is not in the wrapped wire bundle hidden in the wall behind the old thermostat?  Do I just need to run another wire directly from the furnace "B/C" to "C" on the thermostat?


texts:
I've been using a Beninca TWV remote (Shown below) to open my home garage door for the last 3/4 years without any problems, until this morning when the remote stopped working. To be clear I replaced the battery last night, which is the only thing I could imagine causing this.

I've found a few videos/articles online that show how to program a new remote using either the base unit/receiver or an existing working remote (My girlfriend's remote works fine). There is only a single red button on the board (Shown below) & two red LEDs (Most that I've seen online seem to have just one LED).

The advice that I followed was from the manufacturer's manual for the remote, which said I should press the "Program" or "PGR" button, press a button on the remote within 10 seconds, wait 10 seconds and the remote should be working. I've tried that a few times but it's not working.

I will try to program using my girlfriend's remote when she's back, but I just wanted to see if anyone had any advice as to how I should proceed & if anyone recognized the board shown below.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Will this solar charger work with my solar panel setup?

texts:
I recently bought some used solar panels that are about 25 years old, because I got a great deal on them. They have some odd operating values, which is confusing me as to which solar charger will work with my system.

I have 6 panels @ 230 watts each (1380w total).

Their specs are ( as far as I can tell. I needed to peice a label together because there is really no information available on them online):

Name: Mobil RA-220 8b
Peak power: 230w
Vmax: 8.27 (V)
PF Pmax: 27.77 (I)
Voc: 10.55 (V)
Isc: 30.49 (I)

I am attempting to make a 24 volt system with either 4 or 6 panels. My friend said some of those values above are labeled incorrectly (volts vs amps). However, with her math, she recommended the Victron MPPT blue solar 100/50 solar charger, which is rated at:

max 1400w
12/24v
Max PV open circuit voltage: 100v
Max battery current: 50 amps

Would this charger work with this setup? If not, why? And is there another comparably priced ($300) charger that would work in the market?

I know I need to connect my panels in both series and parallel. What specifically would you recommend?

Thank you!


texts: How do I properly ground a light fixture?

texts: I installed a light fixture in my bathroom and need help grounding it properly. The previous fixture wasn't grounded. When I removed the fixture, there were two wires, one black and one white, from the wall while the copper, ground wire was wrapped around a screw that was screwed into a metal plate type thing. Do I connect the ground wire from the fixture to the end of the copper wire wrapped around the screw?


texts: How to repair concrete damage from pulling up nail strips

texts:
When pulling up carpet installed on a concrete slab, the wooden nail strip tracks often pull up sections of concrete and some of the concrete flakes off. I want to install an engineered floor on this slab so would like to repair this first. The good thing is this is limited to the edges of the room but those missing flakes  could cause leveling problems. How would you best repair this? I was thinking of using some grout to smooth over these areas. Also would you fill in all the nail holes left behind?

Edit: By flakes I mean large chunks pulled up between the nails, some 5 inches long and 3 inches wide.


texts: My contractor replaced old soffits and fascia with fiber cement panels. What type of molding/cleating should be used?

texts:
My contractor installed a narrow piece of wood molding in the corner where the soffit panels meet the wall of the house.  See the diagram below.

The material used for the yellow piece is unprimed, unpainted wood, and looks like the type of product that would be installed as ceiling molding (inside the house).

This concerns me because the wood will probably deteriorate quickly unless we paint it.  It probably should have been painted before it was installed.  Maybe it should not be wood at all.

Unfortunately, the manual that I copied this diagram from does not specify anything about the yellow piece.  (I colored the yellow piece myself.)

Does this piece provide structural support for the soffit panel, or is it simply decorative?  It conceals the nails that fasten the soffit panel to the frame.
The diagram is from the soffit manufacturer's website.  Is this piece supposed to be fiber cement, like the fascia on the left side of the diagram?  The fact that both pieces are gray in the diagram implies that it is.
Who dictates what material is required, local building code or the soffit manufacturer?

Here is more context.

The house has wood shingles.  In this project, eaves of the roof were extended, to provide more protection from rain.  So the new soffits are wider than the original, and required new wood framing and subfascia.  The wood frame at the wall of the house was attached over existing wood shingles.  The molding (yellow piece) was attached over wood shingles as well, as shown in the diagram.

The house also has a bay window assembly whose frame is vinyl.  So, in places where the new fiber cement soffits meet the vinyl window frame, I now have unfinished wood molding.


texts: What is the proper and safe wiring to two lights with 2 separate switches and 2 outlets on 1 circuit?

texts: I am adding 2 lights with 2 separate switches on one circuit. There are also 2 outlets that need to be hot at all times on the same circuit. What would be the best order to wire these and can someone diagram this for me? This is for a workshop where these are in 2 separate rooms beside each other. I have included a diagram showing the placement.


texts: Drying/draining Capability of Insulated Vinyl Siding

texts: I'm interested in using insulated vinyl siding on a remodel project, more for the rigidity then the thermal value which is negligible. One of the major benefits of standard vinyl siding is the "built in" rainscreen. I'm concerned that insulated vinyl siding will not drain/dry well and the plywood sheathing will remain damp longer. Literature from Certainteed, Alside, and PlyGem all state that the EPS has a vapor permeance of 5 and that it's breathable. Is this a real concern? Are there any moisture horror stories with insulated vinyl?


texts:
I'm replacing a light fixture in an old apartment where the ceiling wiring has two brown/red wires and one black wire.  When I removed the old fixture it was wired with black to black, the white wire was extended with another white wire with a wire nut and then connected to the two brown/red wires.  The old fixture did not have a grounding wire. One of the brown/red wires seemed to be coming down directly from a small hole in the ceiling and the other brown/red wire was coming out from the side of the ceiling along with the black wire.

So, I took my new fixture and connected the black to black, the white to the brown/red that was next to the black and seemed to coming out of the side of the ceiling/junction box (terminology?) and then I connected my green grounding wire to the other brown/red wire that was coming down directly out of the small hole in the ceiling.

I would like to know did I wire this new fixture correctly? It seems to be working just fine and I even tested it with a voltage meter after I turned the power back on in case I didn't ground it correctly.


texts: Should second trap under kitchen sink S-trap be there?

texts:
My kitchen sink drains through an S-trap immediately below the sink to another trap (a P? a U?) in the basement below. The drain pipe then runs along the wall till it meets the main drain pipe shortly before it leaves the house.

Because this second trap is cast iron, I can't see any way to remove it and take it out. The sink has been draining poorly, and snaking the line seems to help for a bit, but I can't but think there's some real build-up in this trap.

I am also concerned because I have never seen any such double-trap arrangement elsewhere.

The trap in question:

For images of the whole assembly, see this Imgur album.

After: I used this as an excuse to get a sawzall and used it with a carbide-tipped cast-iron cutting blade to saw through the cast iron pipe to the right of where it flared to join with the trap.

I removed the Fernco coupler that tied the PVC under the sink to the cast iron? lead? drain pipe that ran to the trap and pulled the whole assembly out. It turned out they'd run the smaller O.D. threaded 1-1/2" PVC down well inside the metal pipe; the PVC actually ended slightly in the basement.

I replaced the trap assembly with two lengths of Schedule 40 PVC and a 90-degree PVC elbow. A new 1-1/2" to 2" Fernco coupler joined the PVC to the existing cast iron drain pipe. I reused the old Fernco coupler to join the smaller sink PVC to the larger PVC I purchased; the smaller pipe is slightly inserted in the larger, but an inch rather than a foot. (They were both labeled 1-1/2" PVC. Go figure.)

The end result is a sink that drains fabulously and no leaks, and a sawzall I get to keep, for much less than it would have cost to hire a plumber just to snake the line, nevermind replacing the trap with an elbow. Yay DIY!

(full album)


texts: What are the primary differences between air paint sprayers and airless paint sprayers?

texts:
I have an upcoming project where I'm going to need to be painting 7 interior doors and a few hundred feet of trim. Next summer I'm likely going to also have to start restaining the exterior of the house.  I'm thinking it's time I upgrade from the brush and roller.

I'd love to get a air spray gun, but I'd have to get a large enough air compressor that a) would take up more of my limited space and b) likely never get used much (since my pancake compressor is more than enough for my nailing needs).

I see the big box stores now sell a variety of airless systems. Here's one on Amazon (picking it at random more than anything for reference:

http://www.amazon.com/Graco-Magnum-262800-Airless-Sprayer/dp/B0026SR0FW/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347519798&sr=1-13

My only experience with an airless sprayer was a $40-ish dollar hand-held one that I bought for doing a fence. It worked...but not really all that well. It sputtered and splattered more than it sprayed and we had to go over it all with a brush as we went to get an even coverage.

Granted, that was $40, so hoping the $300 airless systems are a bit better.

My question: What is the primary difference between the performance and usability of an air spray gun vs. the airless ones? What should I be looking for in an airless sprayer in terms of features?


texts: What is an alternative to a vacuum cleaner for cleaning carpets?

texts: There are reasons we are not interested in a vacuum cleaner at the moment. I'm sure the same applies for other people. Is there an alternative that can get rid of dirt as well as pick up bigger particles?


texts: Should the covers on sewage drainage pipes be airtight?

texts: Should the caps on the sewage drainage pipes outside be airtight? We've had a little back-up (vent related, it looks like) and I loosened the caps in case water couldn't drain fast enough, so overflow  would go into the yard instead of the shower stall. I'm thinking we have a vent issue, but until we can get them cleaned next week, I'd like to leave the caps loose when doing laundry. Just wondering if loose caps contribute to drainage problems or if it matters.


texts: Are refrigerators really set to die after five years?

texts: A friend says that his friend (who works at an appliance store) told him that refrigerators after 2002 have an HFC container that is set to expire after five years, and then your fridge stops working until you get the canister replaced. Sort of like a water filter if your filter refused to let water pass through when it expired. On one hand, this seems like a great story to tell someone if you want to sell extended warranties. On the other hand, maybe it is regulation taken to an extreme, if you force consumers to replace the refrigerant every five years it probably won't get to the point where it leaks and it can be disposed of safely. Does anyone know of any evidence for this?


texts: How to build sunken shed foundation with insulation

texts:
I'm planning to build a garden office shed about 2.5m wide by 3m long. Regulations in the UK mean I cannot exceed 2.5m high since it will be close to the boundary of my property. The picture below shows a rough idea of the front elevation. I want to use a pitched roof and so it's actually quite tight to make the roof high enough for the door (just over 1.9m).

I've researched insulation regulations (I don't have to stick to these, as it's just a shed, but I do want to make it warm as I will be working there year-round). To achieve the recommended level of insulation, it looks like I would need around 150mm of PIR insulation board. The obvious thing would be to pour concrete foundation blocks and attach a wooden frame to this before inserting the insulation. Something like the picture below:

The problem is that this would be sitting just above ground level and would thus take away a valuable 150mm from my available headroom. What sort of foundation could I build which would leave the floor level only just above ground level, while also providing decent insulation?


texts:
A friend was trying to help me install new dimmer switches and instead of disconnecting one wire and putting it on the new switch, he just cut the wires and couldn't figure out how to put them back.

I used my multimeter to find which wire was which and got the three way switch to work, however next to my three way switch I also have a single pole switch for the lights above my sink. Now, that switch alternates with the three way switch. One set of lights goes on, and the other goes off. If the switch by the garage is off the lights above the sink won't work. I think I have the traveler wires reverse??


texts: Can two 12/2 cables be used to wire a 240 electric Fireplace?

texts: . Servicing an electric Fireplace seeing if it's wired correctly


texts: Why do LED retrofit instructions say to leave the ballast in the fixture?

texts:
I'm looking at retrofitting fluorescent fixtures in my basement for single-ended LED tubes. The electrical and wiring concepts I have down; I could probably do it with my eyes closed (but anyone working on line voltage circuits with their eyes closed is an imbecile that deserves what's coming).

What I don't get is that all the instructions have you cut all the wires right at the ballast (makes sense, so you have longer wires to work with)... but then many of them go on to explicitly state to leave the now-useless ballast in place! It'd make sense if they had you cut maybe 4-6 inches from the ballast, so it could be wired back in in the future if desired, but with nothing but wire stubs it seems to me the ballast is a useless brick in the fixture. Is there some code/safety/etc reason I'm not seeing that mandates keeping a paperweight in your fixture? Or is it okay to just uninstall it entirely and send off to e-waste?

For reference, I'm in the US (in case it's an NEC/NFPA/whatever code requirement). If it's due to a code requirement, insight into the logic behind said code would be appreciated too. I know most codes, even the arcane, archaic, and convoluted ones, have (or at one time had) a basis in personal or fire safety, so I'm curious.!

EDIT: I've added a picture of my fixture... It looks like there was an old ballast in there, possibly magnetic, and they did the same thing: cut it out electrically but leave it mounted. I'd be quite happy to remove both.


texts: Is wiring a 240 volt heater from a sub panel different from wiring it to the main panel?

texts: Since the neutral and ground are isolated in a sub panel, is wiring a 240 volt heater from a sub panel different from wiring it to the main panel?


texts:
I am repairing a hole in an my deck, due to son's pogo-sticking incident.
I'd love to know what brand/type of decking I have so that I can look up correct repair techniques.
I've appended a photo. It looks like a particle board core with some sort of weatherproof layer around the outside. Probably at least 20-30 years old.
The plan is to cut some deck from a less visible area and replace with regular wood boards. It would be nice to get more details on correct way to cut this type of decking and then seal it properly.


texts: Any ideas why my shower pressure suddenly dropped?

texts: Our shower used to have great water pressure, as does all the taps/faucets in the house, but recently it just went down to a trickle. Some initial googling suggested it was most likely a blockage in the head or hose, but even without those attached the flow is very weak. I can't access much more than where the hose attaches as it is behind the tiles, but is there anything I can do to figure out the issue and potentially resolve it?


texts: Handyman working along side general contractor

texts:
We are redoing our kitchen, two bathrooms, and a bunch of small stuff (e.g., replacing interior doors) in a house we just purchased.

We have a GC for the kitchen and baths, which are complicated and have lots of moving parts.  But for the other stuff, the GC seems like overkill.  For instance, his price for replacing our interior doors was about 30% higher than what our handyman would charge.

My inclination is to have the handyman do the "small" stuff and have the contractor stick to the kitchen and bath.

The catch is that, due to the schedule, they'll need to be in there working at the same time.  I've talked about this a little with my GC and he seems a little annoyed, which I can understand.

I'm wondering, though, if it's a bad idea to attempt having both sets of work going on at the same time by two sets of people in the same house.

Am I asking for trouble?


texts: What is this black nut/gasket on my main water line?

texts: On the main water line to my house, there is a black gasket that seems to be leaking.  What is that black nut on top?  Have you seen this kind of thing before? I want to know if I can just tighten it with a wrench or if I need to turn of water line and replace it.


texts:
How long does the tile have to dry before I can put it on the wall ?
Should I dry it with a heat gun or is drying it with a towel good .


texts: We recently recoated our worktop with Danish Oil and noticed later that some oil had dripped down our silver effect washing machine. We have tried soapy water and white spirit but can't remove the stains. Does anyone have any suggestionsfor what we could use? Thanks in advance.


texts: Installing power for irrigation controller in conduit?

texts:
I have a property where the irrigation controller is mounted on an exterior wall-its power cable is plugged into a wet in use GFCI outlet. Beyond the outlet, the power cable hangs off the wall and is exposed to the elements.
Recently had a home inspector report that the power cable should be permanently installed in conduit.
My prior understanding is that cutting the plug off an appliance and hardwiring it violates electrical code. But I can't locate the exact section that prohibits it. The cable attached to the irrigation controller is 'SJTW' which is not listed in 2020 NEC 310.4(A). But then in 310.10(C)(3) It says cables installed in wet locations can: "Be of a type listed for use in wet locations." This SJTW has "Water Resistant" printed on the jacket.
Not sure how to interpret it.


texts:
So I replaced a fan today, and the way the bracket is (it's quite large) there wasn't really room to stuff the wires up through the tiny hole at the top of the bracket into the wire box.

I made sure the wire nuts were very snug (and then electrical taped them up as well).

Is this ok? I've seen other youtube videos of fan installs and i've seen people do similar things with large brackets like this. I made sure to separate the white/green from the red/black as well.

I really hope this is ok, cause this fan was a PITA to install (just time consuming). Everything seems to work fine with it. I made sure the wires are secure, so nothing will be popping out and going below the bracket (not to mention they are too short to go any lower anyways).

(Just for reference, this is a picture before the fan was installed, so there is a cover plate over this that comes with the fan)


texts: Is my irrigation system winterized properly?

texts:
I had a sprinkler specialist come over today to winterize my sprinkler system. I live in northwestern oregon (portland) and I'm trying to figure out if he properly winterized the system or if I need more to be done to ensure I don't have a freeze split open a pipe.
Most everything I've been researching online has advised blowing out sprinklers systems.

A bit about my setup:
I have 8 sprinkler valves (3 sprinkler valves, 5 drip valves). Part of the system is in the front yard and backyard. The backyard slopes downward slightly.

Here is a picture of my double-check backflow preventer:

Here were the steps he did:

Turn valve (1) to closed position
Unscrew cap on test port (3) (i.e. port closest to where water flow exits the backflow preventer)
Used mini screwdriver to open up ball valve on test port (3) until some water stopped draining out. This was very little water that drained out, likely less than a cup.
Use screwdriver to close ball valve on test port (3)


texts: How do I replace mortise locks with bored cylindrical locks?

texts:
I purchased an older home that has mortise locks in all of the doors. They're all very difficult to use and some of them don't work at all, making the doors difficult to impossible to close. Since I'm going to have to do some work on the doors anyway, I would like to convert the doors to use cylindrical locks, instead.

Is there one standard way to go about doing this? I would guess I'd have to fill the mortise pocket in the door with plywood and then use a template to bore the holes into the door. I'm a little less clear about what would have to be done with the door jamb.

I've never done anything like this, and I want to make sure there isn't anything that I'm missing before attempting to do this.


texts: Does it mean a broken wire if a doorbell transformer works, but there is little-to-no voltage at the switch?

texts:
My family has just moved to an older home, and I've been tasked with repairing the doorbell(s).

We have two doorbells, both connected to the same (for lack of a better word) ding-dong-thing. :)  I measured the voltage drop across the two screws on the transformer, and it read ~16V(AC) (+/- 0.5 VAC).  So, I know the transformer is working.

When I measure the voltage drop across the terminals on the switches, the one on the back door reads ~3VAC, and the one on the front 0VAC.

So I conducted my preliminary Google search, and the results I found basically said to give up at this point and call an electrician, as there's probably a break in the wire somewhere.

However, this is a one-story house with primarily unfinished basement, so I think I probably stand a good chance at finding a break in the wire.

My question is twofold:

Is it correct to assume that the problem is a discontinuity in the wires somewhere?
How should I proceed to find a break in the wire?


texts: Is it ok to have a rise in an air compressors drain valve?

texts:
The designer of my compressor unfortunately didn't put a whole lot of thought into where to put the drain valve on it. It's on the back, and the compressor is against the wall, in a corner, usually with a mower or something backed up to it. Draining my compressor is a pain in the butt.

So I did something about it! I went out and get the appropriate adapters to have a hose coming out the bottom of the compressor and just loops around the top.  Something like this.

   ________
   |      |
  /        \
 /   Motor  \   | |
 |__________|   | |
 /          \  ( x ) Drain valve
/            \  | |
|            |  | |A
|            |  | |I
|    Tank    |  | |R
|            |  | |
|            |  | |H
|            |  | |O
|            |  | |S
|            |  | |e
|            |  | |
|            |  | |
|            |  | |
|            |  | |
|            |  | |
|            |  | |
\____________/\_//Connection to old
 []        [] \_/ drain valve location

As you can see the water travels "up-hill". At first this doesn't sound right until you realize that the water travels "up-hill with 40-120 psi of pressure pushing it". I can't see a problem with this, but would love to know if there is some evidence that this is acceptable, or if this is a bad practice, given the cost of a new compressor.


texts: What do I need for a wall shelf that will support an aquarium?

texts:
I'm starting a DIY wall shelf project. I'm not very handy, and I've never done anything like this before, so I'd love some advice/guidance!

The end goal is for the shelf to hold a 3 gallon aquarium (18 x 5.5 x 7"). The total weight of water is around 25 lbs, but I want the shelf to hold at the very least 50 lbs to be safe and to include the tank and rocks/material itself.

I've been looking at these wall brackets from Home Depot (or other similar ones), which say they can hold 200 lbs per pair:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-in-x-12-in-White-Shelf-Bracket-15254/202034279

Planning for the shelf itself to be 10 inches deep.

I've also marked out the approximate location of studs on the wall here:

There are a total of four, though the fourth stud (one closest to the door) seems to be narrower than the rest. I'm thinking about using the first and third for the brackets, which are about 24 inches apart. Do the locations of the studs seem right?

What I'd like to know is what type of screws to use? What length? Diameter?

Does the type of wood for the shelf itself matter a great deal? Would the brackets being 24 inches apart cause the wood to bow under 50 lbs?

Is there anything I'm missing? Important things to take into consideration?


texts: Metal Junction Box screwed to wood - same screw used for grounding

texts:
My brother has a metal pancake box directly screwed into a 2x4. That same screw used to fasten the box is also being used to ground the box.

i.e metal pancake box screwed into the wood also has the ground wrapped around it.

I know ground screws inside the box must be green - I am more concerned over whether or not what I described above is safe.


texts: Is there a difference between A112.18.1 and A112.18.1M (both 2.5gpm) shower heads?

texts: Also, what does this practically mean when it comes to shower heads?


texts: Ok to use solid furnace wire to connect this 24v transformer to my nest?

texts:
I just want to make sure I wired this up correctly using the correct wire. It works!

https://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-trg1640-ac-transformer-16-5-vac-45-va-auto-resetting-grounding-prong-and-terminal


texts: What methods for installing light fixture in middle of room, with lathe and plaster ceiling?

texts:
What options are there for running electrical to the middle of a lathe and plaster ceiling?

My room is about 9' by 9' with a slab floor.  The joists run east-west, and the lathe runs north-south.

All options are awkward, as the ceiling is still in place.

To the south of this room is a walk in unfinished basement area that could be used for access:

Some good info is here, but not specific to lathe ceilings: How can I install a light fixture in the ceiling of a finished room?


texts: Any way to monitor load on a power outlet and receive notifications of usage?

texts:
My sump pump float sometimes sticks.  This is an issue because the pump can easily run dry and burn out, especially if we are away for an extended period of time.

Ideally I'm looking for something that the sump plugs in 'through' which will alert me via iphone/sms/email either:

a) if its running for too long (based on power draw) or
b) if it exceeds a certain electricity usage threshold within a period of time

I'm thinking B is more realistic than A, based on the available power monitor products on the market.

Once I receive the alert I would know the pump is likely stuck 'on' and then be able to toggle the outlet on and off via iPhone.

Belkin's WeMo does provides the on/off functionality but doesn't allow me to monitor or set alerts against usage.


texts: How to accurately judge economics of converting from oil heat to liquid propane?

texts:
I have an oil boiler in my house (boiler and burner about 27 years old) and, as part of a renovation project, I may upgrade to something more efficient. I thought I would have to stay with oil because I have no natural gas available on my street.

I was surprised when a recommended heating guy suggested replacing my oil system with one based on liquid propane. When I do the numbers, the price per gallon for oil and LP are about the same in my area (Massachusetts) but LP has fewer BTUs so the price per BTU is cheaper with oil.

The guy said that the gas boiler (Viessmann) can get up to 96% efficiency where the best oil boilers can only get up to about 86%. While those numbers are true based on what I've read, my simple calculations show that that difference is not enough to make up for the higher cost of LP.

He claims that those numbers don't tell the whole story because the entire LP system would be more efficient: modulating, condensing, etc. But I thought modern oil boilers have those features too? He was saying that those simple numbers don't tell the whole story.

I'm willing to believe LP can be better but I haven't seen good arguments. Is this guy simply wrong or is he right but not able to express his information well?


texts:
Is it possible to use molly bolts in concrete? They are generally described as for use in drywall.  But I have a project that needs a hook or screw to be taken out from time to time, which is possible with a molly bolt.  The load on the hooks would not be significant.

If it isn't possible, is there any other way of achieving this?  Most anchors for concrete don't permit multiple insertions and removals of the screw.


texts: I do live next to a sewer lift station.  The noise is through out my home.  It seems to be worse late night to early morning and when it's colder out.  Could the pump station noise be piped into my house?  I do also feel slight vibrations at times.   I thought maybe it could be the monitoring system they are using which has a giant antenna.  I don't know what to do, I really need help.  I cannot take the noise.  It can be so loud at times it hurts my ears.


texts: Electrical wiring, meaning of the term "hots"

texts: On this site I have often seen the term "hots" used. With regards to electrical wiring, what does this term refer to? I am aware there is usually a positive, negative, and perhaps (not always) ground wire in home electrical cabling. Not sure what "hots" refers to.


texts: Low voltage vs. regular lighting for closets: What are the technical and code considerations?

texts:
I'm hoping to put some lights in a residential hallway closet, so it's easier to see inside. I am considering running low voltage lighting (eg. these LV pucks), or a small regular-voltage light fixture or light socket.
What are the technical and code considerations for running LV vs. regular lights in a closet? Is it just a matter of personal preference, or is one way easier to do and/or more power efficient than the other?
For the record, I’d like to put the lights on a switch.


texts:
I have an old-fashioned doorbell (like this one: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c1/DoorBell_001.jpg)

Is it safe to connect it directly to a power supply (I am using a ac/dc converter) or does it need a resistor?


texts: How can I replace a recessed light with a ceiling fan?

texts:
I've installed a few ceiling fans before and found them to be pretty easy so I'm trying to add them to each room in my house, I don't have great knowledge of electrical work but I can install a ceiling fan, switch a light switch and the basic things like that.

In the one room there is a single light int he ceiling and when I pulled it down there was no electrical box, just a plastic / metal looking sleeve running to it.

I'm not familiar with this wire sleeving and was wondering if I can be told a little about it and if I'm able to cut it and install a fan brace and then an outlet box and run the wires through there and continue installing the fan like I normally would. As I'm assuming that in this sleeve there are just the normal electrical wires in it. I would of tried to look some info up on this wire sleeve but I couldn't figure out what it was called.


texts:
I am building a garden irrigation system which is directly connected to a tap. In Europe the garden taps are usually BSP 3/4" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe). It would be great to have it compatible to the US, therefore I am wondering if you use the same system or what is a standard garden tap thread over there?

Any clues or just stating what you have in your garden would be great!


texts: How do I wire one switch in a circuit with two "fixtures" but only one being operated by the switch?

texts:
I am setting up low voltage 12v landscape lights in my backyard using  one transformer with have to runs/branches - one for two lights and other to operate tow small pond pumps.
I have no room for two transformers, so all have to come from one. However, I don't want the ponds branch to be running all the time - hence wanting to place a toggle switch, that will turn on the pumps only when I need. The other branch runs in auto (with light sensor)

How do I set up the wiring?

branch 1 - only lights to run in auto mode
branch 2 - pond pump to run on demand only( each pump has their wire run and spliced together at transformer
both branches to run from one transformer (running at less than 80% capacity)

do I:

connect branch 1 directly to transformer
connect toggle switch to spliced branch 2 and then piggy tail to transformer to be spliced together with branch 1


texts: Is it okay to put house wrap over the top of pre-existing foam insulation?

texts: We are removing vinyl siding from our house and replacing it with a cement-type product. Is it necessary to remove the vinyl siding's foam insulation  before applying the house wrap?


texts: How can I move the neutral-ground bond to my house from the pole?

texts:
Suppose I have a setup like this: I take my power at a pole. The utility wants me to fit circuit protection there for a very long run to my house.

By my read of things, this makes it a main panel and therefore this is the primary grounding point.  And therefore the panel in the house is a subpanel.

Trying to answer this question, I found a NEC section (Article 310.15(B)(7) not to be confused with the table of the same number) which allows feeder in this case to be sized like service lateral, logical since it's doing the same job.

I would really, really like to have the neutral-ground bond at the house instead of the pole.

In my travels through NEC I could swear I saw a section that liberalizes where the N-G bond is in this case... and I thought might even permit omission of that long ground wire.   But I can't find it again.

Can anyone help me find it?


texts: Should a UPS be unplugged when working on the electrical circuit it is plugged in to?

texts:
I need to do some electrical work on a circuit in my home. One of the outlets on the circuit has a UPS battery backup plugged into it. The UPS is tucked away behind a lot of other equipment, so I'd rather not have to unplug it if its not necessary. Is there a risk of the UPS "leaking" (or whatever the term would be) back onto the circuit when the breaker is tripped? That is, for safety, should the UPS be unplugged before I work on the circuit?
Specifics in case they matter:

I am replacing some switches for lights on the same circuit as the UPS
the switches do not control the outlet the UPS is plugged into
the UPS is a bXterra BM1500AVRLCD (1500VA)


texts: Acceptable locations for junction boxes in a kitchen

texts:
I'm trying to do some wiring in a kitchen with a that's somewhat below grade with a slab floor and another floor above it.  I'm going to need some junction boxes for the wiring.  Usually I see these in an attic or basement, but these locations aren't an option here.  Would it be okay to put them in the cabinets?  Behind stove?  Behind a refrigerator?

Thanks


texts: New thermostat for electric radiant ceiling heat

texts: I live in the Pacific NW where radiant ceiling heat is common in older homes. I a have home built in 1969 and want to upgrade the thermostat to something newer that we can program and save money. This should a be easy fix it would thing but having a hard time figuring out what thermostats would work with my system. I have a King Thermostat Model m601 Single Pole LR10499 22A-120/v240;18A-277VAC. So I think I need something that matches those numbers, the problem is there are 2 sets of them and not sure which I have, and finding ones that support both seems harder and I just keep finding ones like what I have inaccurate analog thermostats.


texts: switch loop wiring - basement lights - wiring diagram included

texts: I had to replace the middle light switch. I found the following cabled and found this very odd. Never ran into it. Seems like its called switch loop wiring? Would this be switch loop? Also all the black wires are wire nutted together in the light box and none connect to the light switches. Only white cables are connected to the light switches. The grounds also are wire nutted together and none connect to the light switches (not show in the drawing). If I disconnect the neutral that runs from the junction box none of the lights work. It appears they are using that neutral to get back to the panel? Is this a valid assumption? Has anyone seen this setup before? The lights themselves are workshop lights with the long tubes.


texts: main electric circuit breaker - aluminium+copper contacts - put antioxidant grease?

texts:
I will be replacing main electric circuit breaker soon. Notice copper and aluminium contacts (this is the upper part of it, that goes to a meter) :

When I told this to my neighbor, he told me to check if I have to use antioxidant grease. Something like this (see the link). Can somebody please bring some light if this is required? My neighbor said he had to use it once for some AC electric work. That contact seems have both copper and aluminium contacts - why they would use different metals on the same contact?

Another photo on the same breaker (from a different angle) - Neutral on main service breaker? .

I do have a torque measuring tool as it has to be bolted with a particular force there. Is there is something else I should be aware of regarding this work?


texts: Do I have to have an exhaust fan above my stove?

texts:
My stove is smack dab next to the back door (which is easy to open and close).  Do I have to have a functioning exhaust fan?  Or can I just close it off to solve a draft problem I am having?

And same question for the bathroom.

These fans were but in by a DIY enthusiast before we bought the house.  They do a lousy job of venting when they're turned on, and they're giving me horrible drafts.


texts: How do I prepare a ceiling for restomping?

texts:
I had to cut access panels in the ceiling of a 7' x 11' room to make several plumbing repairs.  The ceiling has the slapbrush/stomp texture:

I have patched the drywall and I plan on restomping the whole ceiling as opposed to trying to match a patch.  After knocking off the brittle tips with a knife, can I simply roll on another coat of mud and stomp?  The patches I made are smooth.  Do I need to wet the ceiling down and knock it down with a knife or a sponge before I restomp to get the best results and hide the patches?


texts: what can be used as a small container for paint?

texts:
I need to touch up a corner. I'm wondering, what can I use to poor a little latex paint (with primer in it) into to do the touch up? I prefer not to bring in the whole paint canister from the garage but to transfer maybe 100ml into a small container and bring that up to the house.

Can I use plastic? Specifically, I'm wondering if there's a risk of the latex paint and plastic chemically reacting and ruining the paint.

Also, can I throw the latex paint with primer plastic container into the recycle bin after I'm done? Or do I have to clean it first?

Thanks


texts: How to prevent back flow for parallel connected tanks?

texts: Two parallel over head water tanks are connected at the same height and have the output pipes connected to a single pipe into the home. How can back flow of water from tank to tank be prevented?


texts: Is there a "standard" height for towel bars in bathrooms?

texts: I'm hanging a towel bar on a wall in a newly-built bathroom (part of a major remodel). I would like to avoid placing the bar at an "awkward" height, but I'm not sure what the proper height would be. Is there a "standard" height?


texts: Do I need to install GFCI outlets at each location for switched garage lights?

texts: I am wiring up multiple switched outlets in garage ceiling for the garage lights and i am assuming they all need to be GFCI protected. So my question is must I install GFCI outlets after the switch for each outlet. It would mean two of the outlets would be GFCI and I am installing 2 LED lights to plug into each outlet that only are drawing .4 amps each. It seems kind of ridiculous to install GFCI for switched outlets dedicated to these lights.


texts: How can I add a switch into an existing circuit but only control some of the circuit?

texts:
I'd like to put all the lights in my unfinished basement on one switch. I've got carpentry experience but only novice level wiring experience. Right now the lights are all on pull-chains. The electrical run that these lights are on also feeds lights in parts of my finished basement (stairwell and a finished guest room). I drew a diagram of the current wiring scheme below. Note, the partitions I drew under the wiring scheme are how I eventually plan to partition things (also adding a new finished room in the future). What I'm asking about right now is the area partitioned as "current unfinished space". I'd like to add a switch that controls all those lights (3 of them) but the switch shouldn't control any of the "soon to be new room", stairwell lights, or current finished guest room. Do I just need to put a junction box before the first light (and after the last) in the chain and run a wire by-passing the 3 lights from the stairwell to the guest room? Then from that same junction box, power the 3 lights/outlet in the current unfinished space? That seems to make sense to me, but wanted to make sure I wasn't making it more complicated than it needed to be (i.e. simpler solution?).

Also, assuming that's what I have to do, I'll need to re-wire that electrical outlet so it's not turned off/on by the new switch as it's currently wired, right?

This is all unfinished space so obviously I have access to the walls/ceiling. Any help/advice would be appreciated!


texts: Change my 220v 50 amp breaker to 70 amp on existing wiring to pool panel

texts:
Currently I have a 50 amp breaker (220v) running to my pool panel. My pool panel has two 110v outlets and a 20 amp (220v) to run my pool pump. I want to add an electric pool heater which will be a 40-60 amp (220v) dedicated circuit that will be added to my pool panel. With that being said, I guess I need to increase the breaker size in my house that goes to my pool panel from 50 amp to 70 amp. So my question is wiring size. I need to make sure the wiring that's existing is the correct gauge for me to increase the breaker size. I dont know exactly what gauge it is but this is what it says on the wire: CSA T90 NYLON OR TWN75 F11 NOM - ANCE 90°C RoHS 600VOLTS VW

I dont know if this is needed but my main breaker in my house is 200 amp. The wiring going to my pool panel is in gray conduit from my breaker panel in my house to my pool panel which is located outside obviously (which I believe is done that way to be up to code). Electrician ran that for me about 7 years ago.


texts: What could cause my in-wall air conditioner to blow 3 power boards?

texts:
I've had my house for nearly two years, and suddenly my in-wall air conditioner stopped working. I replaced the main power board, and it worked again...for a week. I replaced the main power board again again thinking maybe I'd gotten a dud but the new board lasted less than a day.

What could be causing these repeated failures and what can I do about it? Nothing should have changed from last summer to this summer in my wiring.

If it matters, it is a Kenmore model 58076129300.


texts: What type and length of wiring for home security system?

texts:
I'm slowly remodeling my house one room at a time.  I'm to the point where I need to wire a window for the future alarm system.  This post talks about how to wire a home during new construction for a security system and partially answers my question saying to use 22/4 wire.

What about 18/4?  24/4? Solid or stranded?

Also, since I won't be able to connect the alarm system for some time yet, and I'm not sure where the main board will be yet, I need to have leeway on the cable length.

How long can a particular gauge of wire run without signal degradation or interference issues?


texts: Can I add insulation to my attic and put down plywood so I can walk around more easily?

texts:
My house was built in 1992. There are currently faced batts of fiberglass and a few inches of white blown-in insulation that is both scattered in some areas (mostly over the master bedroom from ceiling fan insulation and replacing the bathroom exhaust fan).
In my ideal world, I want to put down plywood for walking paths to areas where I need to do maintenance - bathroom exhaust fans and above ceiling electrical. Even better would be using some of the space for storage of holiday decorations and other low use stuff.
I am just outside Chicago, so nothing that could freeze would be in the space.

Can I install plywood (probably 3/4 to be safe - I weigh around 250) over the existing insulation?

I think (will need to verify) that this might compress the backed fiberglass.  Will that cause any issues?

I want to add more insulation when this is all done.  I assume (possibly incorrectly!) that I can add insulation  on top of the plywood I install.  I have not decided if I want to use more faced batts or blown in, I am leaning toward batts as the blown in seems to VERY messy.

I found a reference to loft flooring legs, but I don't see them available in the US, only the UK. Attic Dek flooring looks to be more expensive than what I want, but it also looks like it would not interfere with R value of insulation. I would just have to be VERY sure where it is when I use it for walking.
I found 'Attic Decking Kit for a Storage Floor Above Deep Attic Insulation (8ft X 8ft Kit)', which looks like loft flooring legs, but is $200 for an 8X8 setup. Does anyone have experience with this? For storage it would be lighter boxes, under 50 pounds each for sure.

Is there a better way to do this? The access routes would only be used on occasion, but the storage area would be used most of the year.


texts: What is the easiest way to remove a large root in a post hole I'm digging?

texts:
I'm digging a 36" deep post hole for a fence I'm putting up, and about 15" down I ran into a very large root. Since the root seems to be running almost directly in line with the fence, and there isn't a tree attached to said root, I'd like to get rid of the root.

I've been using a reciprocating saw to cut out hunks of it, but this has been very tedious and not as effective as I would like. Is there a better way to get rid of the root? It appears to be around 9" in diameter


texts: Fruit fly type bugs always appear in the kitchen when the weather heats up

texts:
I have lived in my house for two springs/summers now and each time when the weather heats up it seems like the fruit fly type bugs just start spreading around the house like crazy, mostly from the kitchen. I have a regular pest control guy and he suggested pouring bleach down the drains. That, combined with a trap using apple cider vinegar seems to contain them sort of well, I have to pour the bleach down the drains on a regular basis and redo the trap as it fills up quickly. Also, I make sure to put away all food so it's not like I have a bunch of stuff out on the counters.

They obviously hang out/breed in the drains and my kitchen has a sink with two drains (really both meet up and go down the same pipe) and I don't have a garbage disposal.

Would a disposal help at all? Is there anything I can do to keep this from being a problem again? The weather is heating up again and I really don't want to deal with this another year.


texts:
I test the circuit with power on and tester shows circuit is good, with the switch turned off I get two yellow lights that are dim.
What would cause this?

Thanks

Charles


texts: Clamp DC current measurements with AmazonCommercial 600A AC/DC Clamp Meter

texts:
Please see the UPDATE section below!  The question still stands (with new info).
I don't feel the need to open a new one, but let me know if you think otherwise.

Is AmazonCommercial 600A AC/DC Clamp Meter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VX41MPR/) making any sense with clamped current measurements?  It shows weird values, and even weirder - it shows current when there is no wire inside the clamp.
I wanted to use it to catch parasitic draw from the automotive 12V battery, but don't know if I can trust the tool.
Kill-a-Watt is displaying AC current in all photos, ClampMeter is set to match current in the wire.
First 2 photos show original incorrect approach:  clamp has to go around a single wire!
[I removed other extra photos of incorrect measurements]
Clamped over DC going into LED lamp (WRONG WAY - see above):

Then over 110V AC going into a different LED lamp (also WRONG WAY - see above):

UPDATE 2021-Mar-25
As suggested, I wrapped the ClampMeter in aluminum foil, and even grounded that "cage".  Ordered a second unit;  one shows 1.2, the other -1.28 A DC, with no wires clamped - they don't even agree next to each other (both set with fresh batteries from the same batch):

Set up properly to test AC readings:

0.15A is a bit (25%!) lower than 0.2A shown by other instruments:

But at least in AC mode with no wire in the clamp displayed reading is always 0.0A..
DC mode however is totally confusing.  Tried to actually clamp around the vehicle's 12V battery feed.  I'll spare you for now the many photos (unless asked), but the gist is:  while in the air with clamp still closed, no wires inside, ~2ft away from battery it shows -1.7A.  Getting closer to the battery raises the value up to -2A.  Clamped over negative feed (single wire) shows -0.84A with shut off engine and no accessories..
Oh, I'll take it into the forest and get an ambient reading there!
There is a [Rel] button that should reset the measurement relative to ambient.  But if I keep it depressed, while clamping and taking a reading, display will continue showing 0.0A.  If the button is pressed momentarily display changes to 0.0A for that short interval, but comes back to weird (ambient?) reading as soon as the button is released.
Yes, I do have concerns about this $80 instrument's accuracy!
How to explain two units displaying very different ambient readings in the same spot at the same time?  Which one to trust?  How to make sense of it all?
And how [in theory?] should I read accurate DC current with clamp?


texts:
I have my laundry room in the backyard and there is an area that had a thin piece of concrete and below it there is soil. Beneath the soil there lies the drainage PVC 1 ½” pipe, gas line (not currently connected to anything), and water line for the washing machine. I had to dig out the soil a bit and replace a section of en exposed PVC pipe that was broken. The PVC pipe is the thin type. I replaced the damaged section with Schedule 40.

I want to cover up the soil with cement to flush the floor. This will need about 4 inches of concrete (Height) in an area of about 8 inches by 10 feet.

I was thinking of using a concrete mix.
I live in an all year warm climate, BTW.

Is it ok to pour the concrete over the compacted soil and not worry that the weight will crush the PVC pipe?


texts: How do I fix a hot tap that doesn't turn on properly anymore?

texts:
The hot tap on our bath seems to be getting harder and harder to turn on, to the point where now it only turns a tiny bit and hardly any water can get through. How do I fix this?
I've taken a couple of photos of the tap from above and below the fixture. If I have to remove the taps, how do I do this without flooding my house? There doesn't seem to be a convenient valve to switch this off under the bath, will I have to shut off all the water in the house?


texts: Are these steps for refreshing a patio floor correct?

texts:
My patio floor needs refreshing. While at it, I'd like to avoid the boring gray and use a hint of color, either gray-blue or gray-green.

Here are the steps that I have planned:

Lower the nails (by turning a little) to avoid that they rip the sanding paper.
Sand the surface with grit 80-100 using a floor sander.
Insert either the tip or the edge of a belt sander to sand the rounded edges, however far I can reach, with grit 120.
Sand the top surface with grit 200-220 using a floor sander. Don't bother fine-sanding the rounded parts since even someone walking barefoot will not notice the difference.
Apply one coat of "Low-Lustre Enamel Porch & Patio Floor Paint".

Do I have these steps right? Is there any surprise waiting for me?

One additional worry is that I will not even touch the (inaccessible) back side. Is there any chance that the planks would buckle from the different treatment after I'm done?


texts: How do I determine if my basement leak is a foundation problem

texts:
I have a basement leak that happens every other year on average, after either a very heavy rainfall, or melting of a lot of snow.  It occurs on only one wall of the basement, and I've detected water on the floor from opposite ends of that wall. This leads me to believe it's the foundation wall.

I had someone come in and open up the drywall from the inside a few years ago, and he said he couldn't find a leak.  He then attributed the leak to an old window, and charged me to replace it, along with the drywall he ripped out.  After another leak a few years later, I know it's not the window.

I've had spalling/cracking bricks on the outside of that wall replaced several years in a row, and there's a cement walkway right up against the entire wall, with no spacer in between.  I also notice green mold outside around the basement windows, which are below ground level.

Does this sound like it could be the foundation leaking?  If so, is this an expensive repair?  The house is only 30 years old; what would cause this to be failing so soon?


texts: Washer "wall outlet must not be located behind dryer."

texts:
Recently I noticed a washing machine manual which says "Wall outlet must not be located behind dryer." A quick Google search reveals this is pretty common, but what's the reason for it?

I understand that the washer needs "regular" 120V AC and not 220V like you sometimes find behind a dryer, but why would a regular outlet box that happens to be behind an adjacent dryer (i.e. not too far away for cord length to be an issue), be unacceptable?


texts: Is this loft bed flooring strong enough?

texts:
I'm about to construct a loft bed as in picture: it's 240cm long and 180cm wide (7.9ft x 5.9ft).

The floor frame is composed of 2 main beams (2x6) that run on the longitudinal direction, and 7 joists (also 2x6), one every 40cm, attached to the beams with joist hangers. On top of that is a sheet of plywood 21mm thick.

The main concern is about the 2 main beams: is 2x6 enough to support the weight of all the joists (2 adults) or should I use 2x8? Do you think the flooring is ok or should I run the main beams in the short direction and the joists longitudinally?

I have also attached a picture of the frame.


texts: PIR/PUR laminated panels...sources? Similar products? (Interior insulated panels)

texts:
We have a 1/2 story that was cheaply finished prior to us moving in. Looking into it, it looks like we have 4-5" of fiberglass bat insulation in the ceiling which is, if we're lucky, something like r-12. Certainly not ideal for our 90 degree summers and -10 degree winters here in MN.

Since the place has to be remodeled anyways, I'm toying with the idea of ripping down all the sheetrock, then putting up 1 or 2" XPS, then re-sheetrocking. That should give us an extra 5 or 10 in r-value. Still not ideal, but better.

I've been doing more research on PIR panels. These appear to be better than XPS in the r-value department with a value of 7 per inch.

I then came across this product:

http://www.bombayharbor.com/Product/24725/Pur_Or_Pir_Sandwich_Panels_P_Vd_Ribbed_Surfaced.html

Anyone know where to source this in the US? Or similar products? I like the idea of an insulated panel that has a finished exterior already. It's a) taking up less space (more room for insulation) and b) seems great for a lazy person like me.

Obviously, this example was designed for exteriors, but I do like the industrial corrugated metal look and would consider it for interior use. Alternatively, anyone know of similar type products?


texts: How do I even out a tile floor to properly support a dishwasher?

texts:
I'm remodeling my kitchen and I have tiles under the dishwasher. Unfortunately the transition between tiles is not even and 2 tiles are lapping EXACTLY where the dishwasher back wheel is. This makes the dishwasher unstable.

I was thinking that there must be a floor mat out there that I can use that will even out the irregularities? This will have the added benefit of reducing vibrations as well. I made an extensive web search for such mats but I just can't find anything specifically made for dishwashers. I know there are mats out there for washing machines and driers but not dishwashers.

Actually that's not entirely true, there is this one sketchy website that sells some floor mat for dishwasher for an awful lot of money (like $80 for a 24x24 mat). Is there no reasonable alternative that I can find in some retail store? Would a washing machine mat work, provided it's not too thick (dishwasher is under the counter) and rather firm (can't allow for bouncing as dishwasher will be screwed under the counter I think)?


texts: Is my well pump serviceable after overheating and starting to leak?

texts:
A 'handy man' did work on my plumbing and shut off the main water to the house.  He did not unplug the well pump, and it got really hot to the touch.  When we hooked everything back up again, the pump had started to leak.

Is the pump serviceable?


texts: A Florida home was saturated with drain flys.  What is the most effective countermeasure, besides keeping drains filled with water?


texts: What size Aluminum 3 wire should I use to run 200 feet underground at 100 Amps

texts: What size aluminum 3 wire should I use to run 200 feet underground at 100 amps 110/220 volts?  This is in Colorado and will be used to run a mobile home with an electric dryer as the only 220 volt appliance.


texts: How do I straighten my bent metal cupboard frame?

texts: I bought a full metal cupboard but the leg got bent during delivery. Because the leg is bent the door won't close. I tried to get it back in place with a hammer with no success. Anybody got any ideas?


texts: My old ceiling fan had the light switched 3 way and the fan on a separate single switch. my new fan w/remote does not account for this and there is no place to connect the red from the junction box to the new fan & light. Is there a way to install so the light will work off of 2 switches and the fan on a separate switch like the old one? I was going to try connecting the red to the black but don't want to fry the kit.


texts:
So I have a wall that has a very hard sort of textured wallpaper. Recently though the wall suffered some damage that turned into a hole. The hole has been patched, and now we need to paint over that. Removing the wallpaper is not an option.

How can I paint over this? Should I use an oil based paint or latex based (or does it even matter)? What are some gotchas to avoid when painting over wallpaper?

EDIT: I'm not really too concerned if the texture shows through. I actually like the texture so it's not a big deal.


texts:
As a follow-on question to: Why fluorescent lighting tombstones melt?  I do not know what caused a massive current to melt the tombstone: was it the ballast?

The MELTED tombstone will be replaced, however, if after the tombstone is replaced AND the installed ballast lights up a new bulb: what is the decision process to determine if the ballast should be replaced?

If it was the ballast, then it would be ideal if it would disqualify itself by simply failing to start bulbs.  At worst it would continue to start bulbs and melt tombstones.

If the ballast is the root cause of the ballast, then shouldn't it be replaced?   If this is the correct question to ask, how does one go about determining if the ballast is NOT the root cause?

If it is not the right question, then I would appreciate the experience of the community weighing-in.


texts: Non remote controlled ceiling fan turns off and on by itself

texts:
I have a ceiling fan that we turn on each night as we go to bed. During the night it turns off for an intermittent amount of time and then back on by itself. It is not a ceiling fan with a remote control, it is older than that. We have checked the wires and cannot see anything in the ceiling fan that looks worn. Any suggestions?

We turn it on with a wall switch. There is no light in the fan.


texts: Water restriction when washing machine is running

texts:
I live in a townhome. Only when the washing machine is running I'm not able to use water anywhere in the house.
As soon as it washing machine stops the water works immediately. I believe its a valve or something that stops the pressure to save on the water bill. I attached a picture of a valve I see:


texts: How to safely wire fluorescent lighting with three prong plug on the ceiling?

texts:
Recently moved in to a new workspace with some very funky wiring.
Basically, there is a flourescent light installed overhead with a three prong plug. That plug goes to a power strip also attached to the ceiling - which in turn is connected to an extension cord running to an outlet at the floor.

Any advice on how to make this safer would be greatly appreciated. I am a total newbie.


texts: What is this dark stain on my flooring and can I fix it?

texts:
I have either engineered hardwood or laminated flooring.

This was where my dog's water bowl had been

Is this mold?


texts: My hot water boiler failed **On** - what would cause that?

texts:
I arrived back from holiday to find the house like a sauna, everything in the kitchen too hot to touch, cutlery scalding hot etc. My central heating was on full, and must have been for some days.

Quick check of the thermostat showed it was working fine, but turning the central heating timer on or off had no effect. I have had to remove the fuse to the boiler power. Two days later with all windows open 24 hours a day it is still unbearably hot.

I had a look at this question, but the symptoms don't seem to match. If I pop the fuse back I have scalding hot water and radiators no matter what the settings on my central heating.


texts: What do the numbers 1 to 9 mean on my thermostat?

texts: What do the numbers translate to in temperatures?


texts: Wire gauge needed for outbuilding with welder

texts:
I have a standalone building that I'm going to start welding and doing other metal work out of. When looking over the current wiring I came across a wild shock that all I could do was laugh.
The lights and one outlet is powered by a cut up cheap extension cord and the one 220 outlet is straight wired and shallow (2 inches) buried to the oven breaker.
With that said I went and got a  100amp panel, 100amp breaker for the main panel.
My question is: What wire do I need to run to the sub panel?
It is 74 feet from the main panel and at most I would be running lights, radio and fan (all 110) along with my millermatic 251 (220) at one time. The welder and a air compressor are the only things that would be 220. I don't have a clue as to what amperage that would be but I would rather have done over kill than to be pushing my luck.  Thanks in advance for any and all help.  P.S I don't know shit about electrical work.


texts: Is this type of ground wire connection NEC compliant?

texts:
Found this recently, done by a licensed electrical company in the state of California.

Is this compliant? If not, is there anything that could be added to make it legal? (I see "ground clamps" for attaching wire to pipe that look as if they'd provide a mechanical connection.) Would you just parcel them out into appropriately sized wire nuts? The box is a 2 gang, and getting full, but it's in a crawlspace, so could get an extension if needed.


texts: How to add endstop to a sonoff drived stepper motor?

texts:
I would like to control a motor for my curtains from Google Home. I will use a sonoff switch.
How could I wire an endstop between the sonoff and the motor to stop the motor ?


texts:
Trying to replace  which has 2 white wires, 2 red wires, with , which is labeled with in and out holes.

This is not correct, but I am not sure which way it should go or which wire is which! Any help appreciated.


texts: Why won't the drum turn in my GE washing machine?

texts: Our GE washing machine has a drum that won't turn at all, but the pulley turns.  It also makes a 'ch,ch,ch,ch' sound.  The belt was replaced because it had been 'chewed up' ~ thinking the other problem caused the belt to go bad.  What might be causing this problem?


texts: How do I find a break in my ground wire?

texts:
My last bedroom has three outlets, and are all showing "OPEN GROUND" from my tester. The third one is adjacent to the other bedroom, and that outlet is also showing "OPEN GROUND".  The others in that room are fine.

My home was built around 1980, and I have never done any electrical work on those outlets.  The way that I found out was because my son bought a surge protector for his gaming stuff, and it was showing "NO GROUND".  So I plugged in my tester, and it read "OPEN GROUND".  I have lived there about 16 years, and have never noticed a problem.  I have checked all outlets, and all ground wires are twisted and connected.

Could the break be where the two rooms meet?  Any ideas?  My master bedroom is closest to outdoor breaker, and then it is the room in question.


texts: How to disconnect air conditioner lines from outdoor unit?

texts: I need to temporarily move the outdoor unit to one side to access the wall behind it. Is it possible to do this with basic tools? I just need to disconnect the copper pipes as there's enough slack in the power supply so I can keep the wires connected.


texts: Frigidaire washing machine's agitator does not spin, but the drum spins. What could be the issue?

texts:
Have a Frigidaire fex831fs4 washer and dryer combo where washer has following symptoms:

when washing machine is off, the agitator can be freely turned by hand both directions.
when washing machine is on, the agitator does not agitate, but the drum does spin.

I found that common cause for these symptoms (at least for other brand washers) is that agitator dogs are worn.

However, on my washer parts list, I can't find such part.

My questions:

Do Frigidaire washers have agitator dogs at all?
If not, then is the agitation controlled by transmission for my Frigidaire washer?


texts: Why does dirty water come into my second sink when the garbage disposal is on?

texts:
For a while I have been having problems with using the garbage disposal.  The large sink empties very slowly and sometimes I put the disposal on to get it going.  The only problem is that disgusting dirty water comes up the drain in the small sink.

Why is this and how do I fix the problem?


texts: How much power/electricity should my central air's blower fan use?

texts:
Main Question

I've already  visited this similar, but different question and saw a commenter mention that about 500W seems appropriate for blower fan of an HVAC system.  The past few months we've had high electricity bills compared to the same period last year (lived here 2.5 years), but it's also been a hot summer.  I've plotted the kWh that have appeared on my statements (for science!); the increase begins in March.

To try and investigate, I purchased "The Energy Detective" (TED) and have it connected to my condo's main power and also have a "Spyder" monitoring several individual circuits.  Ever since, I have seen a constant draw of 1.7kW coming from my furnace.

Since it's summer and our system's fan is set to ON to improve circulation, I have to assume this is the blower fan's motor.  When we're away at work or vacation and even I've made a point to power down everything that can be powered down, I still have the 1.7 - 1.8kW draw.  Someone please check my math, but over 30 days, that 1.7kW load comes out to 1,224kWh.  This amounts to about 1/2 of my monthly electricity bill, which was 2,550kWh last billing cycle (the previous year at the same time it was 1,290kWh).

This is way too much for a blower motor (or even the whole furnace, considering it's summer) to be drawing, right?

I realize this is a complex problem, so I've tried to include some relevant information below.  Thanks for reading!

Other Info

I have contacted the utility company and they have verified my meter is accurate; they are also billing me for the correct meter (rather that one of my neighbors).  My TED data is exactly proportional to their measurements (I must apply 1.5 factor to TED data to make it match utility's) due to the fact I've never bothered to calibrate it.  I'm just realizing this means that blower fan may actually be drawing 1.7 * 1.5 = 2.5kW (or 1,830kWh per 30-day month).

My utility does provide the ability to view daily usage, and I've done this to verify my TED is accurate once the calibration is taken care of.

I live in a multi-unit building that was remodeled in mid-2000s; the HVAC is original to that remodel (so 10+ years old).  I know some of the other units have had their heat pumps replaced.  I have a service contract with a heating/cooling company to make semiannual maintenance visits.  In February of this year they replaced the blower capacitor and charged $200 for it.  March's bill is the first that begins to show significantly increased usage.

Not much has changed to my condo in the past year (same number of people, no remodeling, etc.)  I did replace the water heater but that circuit is monitored separately by the Spyder and I can see it cycle on/off during the day.  We have also purchased a portable AC unit (Honeywell MN10CES) for our 3rd floor, which gets very hot in the summer.  The unit has a stated cooling wattage of 1,050W (verified accurate with Kill-a-watt).

The unit is only turned on when we are at home, and so wouldn't be a factor in that 1.7 (or 2.5?) kW load I see when we're away. It also doesn't run the compressor at night because the temperature naturally gets below the 78F setpoint.  Even if that portable AC unit was actively cooling 24/7, it should only be about 750kWh.


texts:
Can someone help identify this old metal pole in the backyard? It's very tall and seems to have a a hookup for water supply. The house was built in the 1940s and is located in the California East Bay hills

.


texts: Why can't some light bulbs be used with timers?

texts: I've seen the answer to questions asking why some bulbs can't be used with dimmers [1][2], and that makes sense, but why can't some light bulbs be used with timers? Aren't most timers equivalent to an on/off switch, or do they somehow leak current like a dimmer? I've thrown caution to the wind and tried such bulbs in a lamp attached to a timer and it works fine, and lasts as long as the same bulb in a non-timer controlled lamp.


texts:
I want to add an RV subpanel to our cabin, but the location where I want it is very close to the main service switch, but pretty far from the circuit panel inside the cabin. Currently, there is about 100' of underground wire (I think it's MCM 250 aluminum) feeding into the cabin. What I want to do is put in a subpanel, but connect it to the main supply feed (but after the service disconnect switch).

I was thinking that I could use a tap to pull a 6ga wire off of the MCM 250 inside the service disconnect and run that (through underground conduit) to the RV sub panel. I'm having trouble finding out if that is legal though. I was going to put a 4x4 pressure treated post in the ground and mount the sub panel to that, and run the 6ga wire underground through the conduit to it.

Here's a picture of what I have in mind:

You can ignore the generator part of the diagram for now, unless you want to comment on what I have in mind (putting the ATS right below the service switch about 20-25' from the generator).

Is what I have in mind here kosher? Or do I need another main cutoff switch before the RV sub panel?

One of the main questions I have is if I can tap on the switched (after the main 200a breaker) side of the main service switch using something like a "Morris 97643 Multi-Cable Connector", then run the tapped wire off to a sub panel. Since the main service switch would switch off both the circuit breaker in the cabin as well as the sub panel, I'm wondering if that is ok.


texts:
I've got a skylight straight up in the ceiling, about 3m off the ground. Pretty much exactly this:

When it's cold, water condenses on the inside and eventually starts to drip. In winter it needs to be wiped at least once a day.

Now, I've had absolutely no luck finding a suitable tool for wiping without climbing up a ladder and wiping with a towel. What I need is a very absorbent sponge at the end of a telescopic arm, which, importantly, fits the extreme curve of the window. Any typical flat floor wiping tool is absolutely useless.

Any advice on what I should be looking for exactly?


texts: Can I plug my E27 bulb directly into my wall socket

texts:
Assuming I have an E27 lightbulb such as this:
https://web.archive.org/web/20150928143146/http://www.wartena.com/en/light-bulbs/6-philips-spaarlamp-e27-14w-65w-8710163224138.html

and I have fixed it onto a E27 mount, and perhaps wire it to a plug that looks like this:

Can I just plug it directly into a wall socket?

I'm in Malaysia and we run 240V from the wall sockets.

I don't really know how voltage comes into play here for bulbs or if a transformer is required.

Like I notice that all our other electronics have transformers. E.g. our cellphone and laptop chargers have some intermediate box that does necesary conversions.


texts: Basement shower not draining; dirty water now seeping back up drain

texts:
Our basement shower hasn't been draining properly for months. During the course of a 5-10 minute shower water will back up to above ankle height. Drain cleaner had no effect. I just pulled a wad of hair out of the drain and tried snaking it. Now dirty grey water is backing up out of the drain, especially when I run the sink next to the shower. Any idea what's wrong with the drain?

I got the snake in no more than three feet. I cranked it until it developed what appears to be a permanent kink.

All other sinks and showers appear to be draining correctly.


texts: Vinyl Flooring Over Uneven Concrete Slabs

texts:
Our attached garage was added many years after my house's 1959 construction by basically walling in a pre-existing carport. The floor, therefore, is made out of several concrete slabs and part of what used to be an outdoor walkway.

We live in Alaska and the slabs do not appear to have a frost footing (I think that it what its called), so they have warped, settled, and tilted over the years. In a couple spots, the edge of one slab is an inch or two higher than that of the adjoining slab and part of the floor is pretty heavily sloped.

Basically, its a mess.

The garage also houses our laundry room, a workshop, and a mudroom and we'd like these to be more finished, including adding vinyl wood-look flooring.

My question is: what is the best way to do this?

I am trying to decide if click-and-lock vinyl plank or vinyl sheeting will be easier and cheaper.  Also: can we level the concrete by adding underlayment or do we need to do a combination of grinding and self-leveling compound?  How important is it that the concrete be very level in order to add vinyl sheeting?


texts: Wiring- changing from a fan light combo to a fan light combo with remote control

texts:
I am replacing an old fan/light combo that was operated by side by side light switches. I have replaced it with a light/fan combo that also has a remote. I can only get the light switch to operate either the fan or light.
One side of the remote has a black and white wire which I have connected to the black and white from the ceiling. The other side of the remote has a black blue and white which are connected to the black blue and white from the fan.

There is also a red wire that is coming out of the ceiling, I tried connecting it to he two blues from the remote and Dan and then I tried connecting t to the black wires from the remote and fan. Either way the light switches will operate either the fan or light but not both. Any suggestions?


texts: PVC threaded fitting broken off. How can I remove?

texts: showing broken fittting that is stuck... the white fitting is the new replacement.. you see threaded end is same as piece stuck in the pool filter


texts: How should I mount a sliding closet door track?

texts:
I'm looking for input on my intended plan of action.

I'm drywalling a room, closet included.  The closet track is to be mounted on a crossbeam running the width of the closet.  The crossbeam is actually two 2x4s that have been sandwiched (not right together, about 1/4 inch apart, but thoroughly attached & shimmed).

I believe I'm supposed to attach the track to the outer beam, then cover the track with some ornamental moulding.  Is this the correct method?

What can I do (if anything) about the other, inner (as in, towards the closet) beam?  Should I drywall that 1.5" space?  What's the standard practice?


texts: Can't drill into exterior walls for screw anchors. Why not?

texts:
I'm trying to install an outdoor motion triggered light. I'm trying to drill holes for anchor inserts and I can drill through past about 1/2" in some places.

Please see the picture. You'll see a series of holes in a grid pattern. Some of it was from marking the mounting holes and some of them are discovery holes.
I was trying to see if there are other places that are easier to drill through.

Do I need special bits?  I'm using a generic drill bit. Ive had these forever and they've worked for all purposes until now.  I'm also using a battery powered drill.

What am I hitting? Am I drilling into metal? It seems like something super hard.  It is some sort of metal bracing?  Or am I just in a super reinforced area of the house? It's basically where in a corner of the house.
I didn't notice any concrete or bricks when I was exploring the attic. This house was built in 1939. Am I just hitting some really dense wood?

I also have at attic. See second picture. Maybe what I'm hitting is the "floor" of the attic?

I've also just tried to drill on the wall that is perpendicular to it. I've also moved up a foot or so (maybe clearing the attic floor) and also in 5 feet from the corner.


texts: Based on the picture, what do you recommend using to patch this hole?

texts:
This is a 90 year old lath and plaster wall that was cut into to install a thermostat. The hole is 1.5" by 14".

Should we use:

drywall patch
mesh tape and joint compound
just plaster
something else?

If plaster, which type (Plaster of Paris or Lime Plaster) or brand do you recommend?

Also, do I need to put anything in front of the black cord before patching?

Thanks.


texts: What happens if XPS is an inch away from basement walls?

texts:
I live in Maine and am planning to insulate my basement.  It has fairly smooth poured concrete walls.  I've read online that spray foam is one option, and 2" of XPS directly against the wall is another option.

I was at Home Depot today, and a salesperson there told me that he would leave a 1" gap between the wall and the insulation.  I don't believe this is the correct thing to do (instead, the foam should be flush against the wall), but my question is: what would happen if one did that?

My guess is that in the summer, moisture would travel from the ground, through the wall, into the air in the gap.  Depending on the temperature of the foam, it could condense and create a problem.

But then my follow-up question is: how, exactly, does the foam being flush against the wall prevent that condensation from happening anyway?

I appreciate your insights - this is interesting information, but I am still on the steep part of the learning curve.  :)


texts: How can I transmogrify a fixed monitor post in to a variable height monitor post?

texts:
Background

I am looking to increase the versatility of a desk by allowing the monitor to raise and lower, using a manual mechanical solution (i.e., no electric motors). I am trying to make adjusting the monitor height be as quick and effortless as possible, while eliminating the risk of "dropping" the monitor.

The situation is depicted here:

The items involved in this problem include:

a monitor of ~12kg, with dimensions of 449.6mm x 690.2mm x 83mm;
a single post of 10cm in diameter, made from 5mm thick steel; and
an arm of ~3.1kg, with a maximum extent of 37cm.

The extensible arm provides a great deal of motion. The post is notched at the bottom, resting on a type of halved joint, and secured at the back of the desk by thick wood slats.

The monitor needs to have about two feet of motion so that I can stand while working. (Lifting the entire desk would be much [$10k] too costly!)

Problem

As described in this physics answer, the compressive force and the moment conveyed to the post are fairly significant. I'm looking for a solution that would allow the monitor to raise and lower and lock, even if it meant having to retract the monitor close to the post while adjusting the height.

To raise the monitor with the current situation requires unscrewing the post, hoisting it, and reattaching the screws. This is both dangerous (for the monitor) and time-consuming.

Post and Track

The faceplate welded to the post has 10 threaded holes drilled into it (barely visible in the above photograph). I think I need a two-piece sliding track mechanism. One piece attaches to the post and the other attaches to the extensible arm. The logistics resemble:

Question

What type of sliding track mechanism would allow the monitor to raise and lower without much effort, time, or potential for accidentally dropping the monitor onto the desk?


texts: How can I fix this leaky roof over a covered open air porch?

texts:
There is a small deck above this covered porch. The first picture shows right below that deck where there is small shingled roof. Below this roof is a covered but open to the air porch. When the snow melts from the deck water drips down and freezes on the siding as shown circled in red.

Once everything melted I noticed big bubbles in the paint from the wood siding shown in the second picture. Clearly I have a water problem. Can I fix this the right way in the middle of winter? If not any good mitigation ideas while I wait for spring?


texts: How to fix double-tapped 14-3 cable to boiler

texts:
I have an oil boiler for heat. 14-3 cable runs from the panel to a thermal cutoff above the boiler, then into the boiler's control box, and from there to a Taco controller that manages three zone thermostats and controllers for forced hot water heat.

At the panel, the 14-3 cable is presently double-tapped so that both the black and the red are attached to the same 15-amp breaker.

I'm in the process of migrating the whole circuit to a subpanel so I can put the boiler on a transfer switch to a generator for backup power. I'm tempted to attach the red and black wires to 2 ganged 15-amp breakers, but I'm afraid because I don't understand the original intent of this wiring.


texts: How should I remove the water from my pool cover?

texts:
Winter is finally over, and it's time to remove the cover from my above ground pool.  However, snow and rain have left quite a bit of water on the cover.

I see three options

Pull the cover off, and let the water go into the pool.
Use a garden hose, and try to siphon some of the water off.
Buy a pump, and pump the water off.

The water on the cover is gross, so I'm not sure I want to just let it go into the pool.

I don't know if siphoning would work, as I'm not sure I'd be able to get it started, or if it would continue to flow once started.

Haven't looked into buying a pump yet, so I'm not sure if they're expensive, or how much electricity they consume. I'd also have to monitor the pump, so it didn't run dry.  Which doesn't sound ideal.

Is there a tried and true method that pool owners prefer? Or any methods I haven't mentioned?


texts: What is the "red button" on my circuit breaker

texts:
I have a breaker which is connected only to my Air Conditioning unit. It appears to have tripped at some point, based on the description on the panel for resetting the breaker. I don't think it was in a middle position, and I've tried pulling the handle to the off position and pushing the handle up to the on position, but it doesn't seem to reset. It looks to me like this red button should be going back down when I reset it, but it doesn't ever do that. I can't find more examples of this breaker (with the "red button") online.

It's not apparent that any electricity is reaching my AC unit; the motor doesn't run no matter the thermostat setting. The fuses appear fine. I think the red button must be telling me the breaker is tripped, but I'm not sure how to reset it.

What does the red button indicate? How do I reset it?


texts:
I am looking to replace my old double oven since it has stopped working. It was plugged into the wall via a three prong outlet that is located above the cutout for the ovens in the back of the cabinet above. When reading about installing ovens it appears the standard is for ovens to be hardwired.
Since my house is setup for a 3 prong cord, would I remove the hardwire wiring and then run the 3 prong cord through the conduit and connect it to the oven that way? Is there a way to remove the hardwire wiring? Since the only pictures I can find are just stock photos of the oven it's hard to visualize how this will work.
EDIT: I added a picture of the plug, the old oven was a Whirlpool RBD275PDB and the new oven is a GE JKD3000SNSS. The power requirements for the old oven vs new oven are below:
KW Rating at 208V: New - 5.4, Old - 6.0
KW Rating at 240V: New - 7.2, Old - 8.2
Circuit Amps: New - 30, Old - 40


texts: Drill bit coming loose on a basic rotary/impact/hammer drill

texts:
I just received this 21V 350 in-lb impact drill https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088JYH44C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 350 in-lb torque rating seemed kinda decent so honestly I expected better results than I am getting. I am wondering is it

"user error" (my first impact drill here)
expected limitations of this modest tool?
different bit extender needed

The tests I did:
With a two inch thick oak board:

drive a screw as deep as I can
drill out a 3/8 inch hole with a spade bit

In both cases they just gave up at one inch depth.  Bits would come loose and wobble, and no further progress could be made.
As far as tightening/locking the bit:  I watched a few youtube's and they talked about higher end dewalt/milwaukee etc that have locking mechanisms.  This tool does not have a similar mechanism.  Even so the instructions mention

The bit is secure when the chuck makes a ratcheting sound and the sleeve can not be rotated any further".

I did not hear any ratcheting sound even though the fit is tight (before drilling).
Based on a comment I will make the implicit goals here explicit:
"What needs to be done (if possible at all) to achieve"
* two inches of screw fastening in oak
* two inches of 3/8 inch spade boring in oak

The answers may be some combination of:

drilling type settings: classic vs impact vs hammer (latter not likely..)
speed settings:  1 (low speed higher torque)  2 (high speed lower torque)
ratcheting settings:   1 to 25


texts: Why did my refrigerator/freezer stop cooling?

texts:
The other day my combined fridge/freezer stopped cooling. I tried to turn the temperature dials inside the fridge but it didn't work. I read that this could be due to the evaporator coils being frosted over, so I disconnected it for a whole day, with the doors open. When I reconnect it, the sides of the fridge get really warm (i guess thats where the condensers are?), and the freezer starts cooling (but the fridge stays warm). After two hours or so the freezer stops cooling, the sides are no longer warm, but the compressor gets quite warm and stays like that.

I have checked and the fans do work both in the fridge and the freezer.

I here are some pictures of the fridge and the compressor:

Click for full size

More photos can be found here: http://imgur.com/a/gi7aH

I would appreciate it a lot if someone could help me understand what is going wrong, and how i could fix it.

PS: Sorry for the bad quality images. Also I should mention that above the compressor there was a tray that i removed to be able to take the pictures. I think its for collecting condensed water.


texts: Convert a single side lock to a double sided lock

texts: I have an electronic latch  with a push button buzzer (it’s used to unarm the door in stay mode) to avoid ppl using the door handle manually instead of pushing button to disarm alarm for 5 seconds. I want to basically make a double sided passage lock which seems hard to find or very expensive.  I also have the same issue with my other door which has the big Baldwin double lock (mortise I think )  In this case o want to add a lock cylinder in place of the turning knob on the Inside which would allow me to only use a key to turn the mechanism   Any ideas would be appreciated thanks


texts:
This is on a valve for a fancy walk in tub.  The nut tightens it against the top of the tub to hold it in place.

But I have no idea what this kind of nut is called, nor what tool to use to properly tighten it.  I can get it kind of tight using vice grips, normal wrenches, and hammering it with a flat head screwdriver.

Some of them are about 2 inches in diameter, others 2.5-3 inches.

But surely there is a proper tool for this?  What's it called?


texts: water valve to toilet will not shut off and the water is running more and more even when off

texts:
my toilet was being fix because one of my kids break it. the water valve was turn off but was leaking a lil bit then around 10:30 last night it sounding like my washer was being fill but it was coming from my bathroom the only way it would stop was to turn the main water line off but how do i get the water to turn off to the water valve to my toilet?

ps if there is a video that would help thank you!


texts: How to insulate a wood garden shed to house a small 7’x7’ heated above ground therapy pool

texts:
We are having a wood shed 12’x14’ built to house a small (7’x7’) above ground heated therapy pool so we can use it year round. The shed/building is being built on a gravel pad with no wooden floor due to weight of the water and to avoid damage if a leak should happen.
We have a window on each end of the 12’ dimension that can be opened, two windows along one of the 14’ walls, and several windows along the same 14’ wall, up high. They can be opened as well. The pool will be heated to about 85-90 degrees. We want to heat the inside of the building with a sealed electric oil heater.
We are concerned about humidity and want to know the best way to insulate the building and not trap moisture in the walls to cause mold.what would be some products we could choose from.
Is there anything that should be applied to the walls before insulating and what do we need on the room side of the insulation. We are not looking for a fancy finish. We just need functionality with a reasonable budget consideration.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: Is there a specific type of double sided tape and glue to use when installing vinyl?

texts:
I am working with those soft backed cushion vinyl.

When installing vinyl I know you need to put double sided tape at the sides.  Tape comes in many forms so is there a specific type of double sided tape to use when installing vinyl or will any generic double sided tape do?

Also I want to ask the same about glue which you normally put at the center, is there a specific type of glue and is this step optional?


texts: What underlay is used for installing pool tiles

texts:
Is it concrete? (i.e. cement and water)
Is it some kind of special caulk?
Is it something else?


texts: Gluing Table Aprons to Plywood Table Top

texts:
I'm building a tall, large standing desk and removable legs are required for this to fit through doors.  I'm using pocket screws to attach the aprons (hardwood maple) the table top (birch veneer hardwood plywood).  Screws are 6" apart

Would adding glue between the aprons and tabletop be beneficial for structure?  Or would the glue not have a benefit because of the thin birch veneer that it's being glued to?  Or would glue cause problems if the wood warps (I live in dry, Colorado climate and warping may not be an issue).


texts: What should I do with the ground wire on a replacement bathroom fan motor?

texts: I bought a new motor for my bathroom vent fan and it came with a ground wire.  The old motor does not have a ground wire, or not that I can see.  What should I do with the ground wire?


texts: What is the proper way to run ethernet cable along walls and doors

texts:
I'm living in a two bedroom apartment. The cabling from the ISP enters the house in the living room and this is where my modem/router hookup is.

The problem is that I have trouble getting decent internet speeds in one of the bedrooms. I'm not sure if this is due to the router I'm using (this one) or the layout of the house, but I've decided to try to run an ethernet hookup from the living room to the bedroom. The problem is that I'm renting the apartment and my landlord wouldn't be too keen on me doing anything to the walls or floors to run the cable discretely.

The only other option I can think of is to run the cable exposed along the walls and floors. However, I need some way to protect the cable from being stepped on, chewed by the dog, etc. The section of exposed cable would probably only be around 15ft. I'm thinking about using some cord covers like these to cover the cable up. Has anyone had experience with these? How are they?


texts: Can you buy an inexpensive rectifier/dc power source for cheap flickering LED Christmas lights?

texts:
OK, I bit on Home Depot's door buster LED christmas lights... 150 LED lights for under $5 each. How could I resist? (Answer: By remembering that cheap LEDs flicker, AND that I'm sensitive to it. )

https://www.instyleled.co.uk/what-causes-led-flicker-and-how-can-i-stop-it-happening/

Seeing as how they were door-busters, they are also non-returnable. I'd like to figure out how to make them work. I've done some research, which has shown that it's possible to create a dc rectifier/transformer/ that will make the flickering stop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqRd3q7k9OU

Now, I think I can do all of that (I love soldering that gives you that much room to screw up. BUT, I'd rather just pay $5 for a professional version that absolutely positively won't overheat and burn down my house. I can NOT find anything that's not built for uses like under-cabinet lighting or dimmers, and which have specific connectors for specific manufacturers. Does anyone know if anyone sells something like this, or if there are kits that are a little LESS DIY in nature? Thanks!