texts: Is a gas fireplace enough to heat a small cottage?

texts: I have a ranch style 544 sq foot cottage 16x32 it is long and very narrow. I would like to install a gas fireplace for a heat source but as well as the ambiance. Do you think with proper blown in insulation, new windows that a gas insert would work. I like a nice 72 degree house. I have several new ceiling fans with high catherdral ceilings so it is like a two story without the usable second story. Any suggestions would be helpful. I understand I need to have a rather large unit (btu) due to the high ceilings, just want to be sure that this will be efficient. I plan to purchase a good blower and wall thermostat as well.


texts: What type of caulk should I use for bathroom tile?

texts:
So I have a bathroom that has a tile floor, a small tile baseboard, and a tiled shower that has tile on the walls and floor.

The builder used grout everywhere and so after a while, pretty much all of the grout where the wall meets the floor is cracked.  I started researching and it seems that I should be using caulk at the change in planes.

So I was originally going to use silicone, but then found a mapei siliconized acrylic that color matched my current grout.  Should I be using just that, or silicone, or use that first and put a thin layer of silicone over it?


texts: How do I drill additional holes for adjustable-height shelving?

texts:
I have a set of cupboards with shelves that adjust in height, by means of moving pins that hold up the shelves to different holes:

Unfortunately, for some reason, whoever made the cupboards didn't put in enough holes. Thus: is it possible to drill another row?

The problems I see are:

drilling the proper depth (in particular, not punching through - the other side is exposed, and it's a rental)
placing the holes with sufficient precision that the shelf is level and doesn't wobble

Is this a DIY job? If so, how do I do it?


texts: Need help removing bolt and nuts from a mailbox

texts:
I'm not really handy, and so this is the first time doing something like this. I have a 15+ year old mailbox which is fastened to a metal post by four quite rusted bolts and nuts on the side. The bolts are of the slot types, so I thought it would be a simple as unscrewing them with a screwdriver. Unfortunately, the nut (which is a bit thinner/smaller than a standard nut) also turns with the bolt.

I've tried to do the things suggested in this question (using a wrench/pliers), but haven't had luck so far; holding down the nut while turning the bolt head just makes the screwdriver slip out of the slot.

I've applied some lubricant, but no dice either.

I don't have access to any power tools like a drill either, and I wouldn't be sure what to look for in a store. Any other suggestions?


texts: Reset or repair stand alone dehumidifier?

texts:
After working well for a few years, a stand-alone dehumidifier has stopped taking water out of my basement. The dehumidifier drip tube does not even get wet.

The noises tell me the fan and compressor are working.

Is there some reset or easy repair inside the plastic cabinet that I could try to get the dehumidifier working again?

(It is a Soleus or Sunpentown 65-Pint Dehumidifier SD-65E.)

Thanks.


texts:
NEW USER: so this has probably been covered but every situation is different and I've found some inconsistent work done by the original contractor. Here's the jist:

-Using an electric Pressure washer, I've tripped all three of my outdoor receptacles.

My checklist for finding/fixing the issue:

Since these are outdoor I assumed they were GFCI protected so I checked all of them looking for the TEST/Reset buttons. None were present.
Next, checked the Breaker Box for a tripped breaker. None were tripped
Next, I checked all of the other GFCI outlets that are installed. None were tripped.
Next I tested every other existing outlets for power. They were all 100%
Next I checked the Breaker panel again for something tripped. All were fine.
Next I one by one flipped all of the individual breakers to reset. Still no power
Next I flipped the main breaker for the entire unit thinking it may reset any issues. No Luck
Is it possible, I need to replace one of the individual breakers even though they all seem to be good?

Lastly, I know the line is all attached for the outside receptacles, but I can't even find where it ties into the breaker box because everything else works. Oh and one thing I have not done for safety reasons because I don't know what breaker to throw, was to pull all the receptacles off individually and check the wiring. I thought about it but If that is the case and I pull one and the wire touches to make the circuit live again, it may not turn out so well.


texts: What wood should I use on a garage door?

texts:
I have a garage door that has wood on the door itself.

The wood has not aged very well. It is about 6 years old and has paint coming off of it as well as is starting to fall off of the door. There are also a few pieces that have warped some.

So my question is, what type of wood should I be using on a door like this?


texts: Is it safe to replace a Furnace pressure switch with a different one?

texts:
So I had some problem with my gas furnace and a technician came by to install a new one but it doesn't have the same rating and only has one tube instead of two. He assures me it's fine but I thought all furnace repairs had to be made with OEM parts? Can anyone let me know if this is safe and if it will affect the life of my furnace?

The furnace is a Lennox ML195 Single stage 95% efficiency furnace. He replaced the whole pressure switch but the new one has only one port whereas the old one has two, so now there is a hose that is unconnected on one end. Also the old pressure switch has a rating of 0.90 PF and the new one says 0.27" WC is that the same?


texts:
On my front porch I have one of those ugly builder standard porch lights.  I'd like to replace it with a pendent light, but I also want it to be controlled by motion sensor.  The primary purpose of the lighting is decorative and for comfort of my guests as opposed for security.

This is a flush mounted motion sensor light , but I would like a pendent light.

I figured I could get the pendent like I would like, and rig up my own motion sensor.  Any ideas for the parts that I should use for the motion sensor?


texts: Near my house there is a small industry which uses welding machine because of that i'm getting voltage fluctuation.When there is no work there is no issue.My doubt is that they have used 3 phase line  and mine is single phase.If their connection is a 3 phase one will such issue arises or its bcoz of the problem of the main transformer.Can anybody tell me how to overcome this.If any device is available in the market to overcome please suggest it would be a great help


texts: How well would a hydronic furnace work with a gas tankless water heater?

texts:
My current heating system (in Ontario) is an oil hot water tank in a closed loop with a hydronic forced-air furnace (Enerzone XAH 68). The water circulates through what is basically a heat exchanger across which a blower blows air. I also have an electric tank for tap hot water.

How well would such a furnace work with a gas tankless water heater? If I add a second tankless for household hot water, is there any use for the electric tank alongside a tankless heater?


texts: Changing a dishwasher from hardwired to cord-and-plug

texts:
My dishwasher flooded my kitchen, requiring the removal of the flooring and eventually the lower cabinets. I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher right after the flood, but couldn't unplug it because there wasn't a receptacle anywhere I could see. I was worried that it was hardwired, and the flood remediation guys quickly discovered that a) it was, and b) there was only about 8 inches of slack in the cable.
I am not especially pleased about this. The dishwasher isn't on a switch or a dedicated circuit, and I have no idea which circuit it is on (none of them is labeled "dishwasher", it's not on either kitchen receptacle circuit, and the breaker panel labeling in general is pretty bad). Right now, I have no knowledge of how to de-energize a major appliance that uses water. Even when I figure out which circuit it's on, this setup will needlessly complicate future dishwasher installation and service, so I would much prefer to have a receptacle for it.
I had two contractors come out today to measure for estimates on the rebuild. Both told me that the dishwasher was supposed to be hardwired and they couldn't change it, though one said he could lengthen the cable. I live in New Castle County, Delaware, which follows NEC-2014 as near as I can tell. The selected answer in this previous question directly quotes NEC-2014 saying that dishwashers can definitely be cord-and-plug provided some relatively simple requirements are met. And while this is the first house I've owned, I'm pretty confident that I've seen the cord-and-plug setup in other houses I've lived in. So why might two contractors have told me they couldn't put in a receptacle for the dishwasher?


texts: Recommendations for search terms - insulate wall between duplex units

texts:
I have one half of a duplex, which is separated by a brick wall (looks like a triple brick?). While refinishing my basement,  I'm trying to determine the insulation requirements in my local building code (Ontario, Canada), but no matter what I punch into google I cant find the right reference.

Can anyone suggest the search term I should be using to find the correct part of my local code?

Thanks!


texts:
I have 5 wires in the back of the light switch. It looks like there are 2 ground wires (copper, no coating) one from the breaker and one to the light. They go into different holes and then are coiled together.

The switch that I have now just has 2 wires going into it. No ground. The two copper wires are just twisted together and capped.

How can I install the new switch? Which one of the grounds do I use? And how is this light functioning now without a ground?


texts: How do those glowing LED faucet aerators power themselves?

texts: Do a web search for LED faucet aerator and you'll see dozens of different color-changing faucet aerators (and showers), most of which are powered just from the stream of water. How do they generate the necessary power? Is there a teenie turbine and generator? Some sort of oscillating fin on a piezoelectric bar? Gnomes?


texts: Which way round do I mount an angle grinder wheel

texts:
The disc on this angle grinder was jamming against the guard. It has a recess in the centre, like this
 Should the hollow part be facing away or towards the open side of the grinder, or is the rule that the side with writing on always faces up?
 My Bosch manual doesn't even say which side should face up, can anybody provide trustworthy references to mounting a disc


texts: Sealing metal siding against window j/c channel?

texts:
We're going to use metal siding on our house. We're using a corrugated profile. Where the siding meets walls/corners/windows, it will run into a strip of C-channel (or J-channel).
Visually, that looks great, but doesn't seem to be much of an actual weatherproof seal. I've searched quite a bit and even asked our siding provider if that is sufficient but there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of info out there on installing metal siding horizontally like this--at least not at the residential level.
Is it OK just to have the siding run into the J-channel? Or should there be more of a seal between the two?
The only possible viable option I've found is expandable foam tape. The idea would be we'd run that along the inside of the C-channel, and then when the siding is inserted that'd create a bit more of a seal.
Any other thoughts/suggestions?
Here's a rendering of the issue. The orange(inside)/blue(outside) is the J channel along the side of the window. The corrugated siding then is inserted into the channel.


texts: How to remove/replace the cartridge for this Delta Monitor shower faucet?

texts:
Can anyone identify this Delta shower faucet model?

I'm trying to replace the cartridge, but I'm having trouble getting the handle off. The hot/cold cap pops off and there is a Philips head screw, but that doesn't relate to the handle assembly.

There doesn't seem to be a set screw on the side of the assembly or anything like that.


texts: Shower pump cuts out when switched to rain head

texts:
We've just a new shower fitted using a Salamander CT50+XTRA pump with a rain shower head and an ordinary shower head controlled with a diverting valve.

We have a gravity fed cold feed from the loft and the hot feed comes from the immmersion tank via the surrey flange that was fitted by the plumber.

If we use the 'ordinary' shower head all is fine, however if we switch to the rain shower head it works until you increase the temperature at which point after 30 seconds or so the pump shuts off and we get no water.

The pump is rated at 1.5 bar, so my question is, if we upgraded the pump would this help? or is there potentially something else going on?

Thankyou in advance,
J


texts: Light contact tab melted into plastic housing

texts:
Hi there

I’ve been given an old floor lamp that I’d like to use, but it only works with one light bulb that I’ve tried and I need it to work with another.

Investigating the floor lamp, I can see that the contact tab has been pushed down and melted into the plastic housing. I’ve tried releasing it but it’s glued fast. I’m thinking that the best way to overcome this is to solder in a new copper contact tab onto the original, but I’m interested in receiving some advice as to whether this is the best approach. Any advice welcome.


texts: How to prevent rebar from rusting in the ground?

texts:
I am building a wall with rebar, cinder blocks, and rebar, as I've seen in many YouTube videos.
 ________||_ ___________ ___________ _____
|        || |           |           |     | <--cinder blocks
|________||_|___________|___________|_____|
|     |  ||       |           |           |
|_____|__||_______|___________|___________|````````````` <-- ground
         ||
         || <-- rebar
         ||

The rebar should stop horizontal movement, as part of the wall acts as a retaining wall.
I heard some people warn if I run the rebar into the ground, it will rust and become useless. How can I stop this from happening?


texts: Should a entire bathroom circuit run from a GFCI outlet

texts:
I have a bathroom that is on its own circuit that feeds power from the panel to a GFCI receptacle and then feeds 2 lights and the bathroom fan.

So if the GFCI trips the lights and the fan goes out as well. I think this is OK, but I want to confirm there is no code violation. I am in Canada.


texts: Can a condo interior room walls have steel studs that are paper thin?

texts:
I'm a bit puzzled about what's behind the drywall in my high rise condo built 3 years back. When drilling into an interior room wall supposedly where a stud should be(found by a stud detector and yes I am using it properly), my drill goes through the wall with barely any resistance.

It's a fairly lengthy wall, about 10 feet connecting my living room to my bedroom. However, when I drill into the wall connecting to the neighbours, I feel a lot of resistance and definitely hitting a stud.

Could it simply be that the studs are paper thin and weren't meant to handle extra load besides the wall?


texts: Does the specific gravity of a lead-acid battery  indicate degradation?

texts:
Let say I have a battery that is a few years old.

When it was new, the specific gravity was indicating 1.265 when full, and it lasted fairly long.

If I do an equalization charge, for the same battery after 7-8 years, what would I expect to see?

The specific gravity when fully charged will rise to the same level but it won't last as long.
The specific gravity when fully charged will indicate degradation of the battery and will show a lower level (say - 1.215 or so).

Which of these answers is more accurate?


texts: What kitchen counter material would you recommend and why?

texts:
What are the pros and cons of various kitchen counter top materials?

Granite
Corian
Concrete
Laminate
Quartz
Silestone
Other


texts: Should I use longer screws or cardboard shims for fixing skewed doors?

texts:
I have several interior doors on all three floors of a house that are skewed to the point that the latch no longer slides into the strike plate. If the door has a lock, this means I cannot use the lock. The gap gets wider towards the bottom and wider towards the right (when on the "inside" of the door). I have no idea how the doors have become skewed.

I'm told a good resolution to this problem is to put cardboard shims on the middle and bottom hinges on the jamb as well as the door side. I've also been told to use longer screws to pull the door in. Which do you think is smarter? My initial thought is to do the shims, because you are not hurting any wood. But I'm not sure if the shims are less of a "solution" and more of a "hack".


texts: Method to support I joist after cutting the top flange for dryer vent?

texts:
My laundry wall lands DIRECTLY on top of an I joist in my basement. They are parallel so moving one side or another will not allow me to miss the I Joist.  There is no method to vent up because a truss lands directly on top of this wall.  This means I need to go down, and have to drill a 4" round hole through my I Joist top flange and probably 1/3 of the I-Joist web.

I know this basically ruins the joist.  BUT I will not be touching the bottom flange.  In addition, I have a wall that is partially below this I Joist, meaning in the basement I have probably 2" of flange bearing on this wall which is parallel with the joist.

Right now all I can think of is: Attach a 4' long 2x4 or 2x6 on the side of the top plate & studs of my basement wall to ensure 100% of the joist bottom flange is making contact with the wall for about 2' on each side of what would be the weakened area.  I would also ensure there is contact to this wall at all points with shims if needed (Basement wall is not there as load bearing, so it may be 1/8" shy of making contact with the I Joist flange right now).

I would create an X brace for the top flange to bear load on both joists next to it but I have plumbing on both sides!  This also means I can't just run another I Joist or 2x12 near the weakened joist.  I am not sure how much load bears on each flange but I would assume 45% of weight is on the top and 45% on the bottom with 10% or less in the webbing.


texts:
Is it safe to drill a one inch deep hole for a small screw and anchor into the mortar area around the rock in my fireplace to hang something? Is there any risk to piercing the inner part and letting any smoke or gases out?

I tried drill into the rock itself with a masonry bit, but I don’t have a hammer drill and it was not happening. I am sure I could get into the dried concrete, but wasn’t sure if that was safe.


texts: Do braided stainless steel hoses with surface corrosion require replacement?

texts:
I'd be grateful if someone would resolve some conflicting advice I've been given on this topic.

Some argue that the braiding does not contribute to the pressure rating of these hoses, and that surface corrosion does not indicate urgent replacement.

On the other hand, online sources such as this (in addition to this study) imply the contrary, that corrosion is among the causes of braided hose failure.

What would you say is correct? Would extensive corrosion require urgent replacement?


texts: Do basement walls with metal framing and foam insulation require fireblocking and draftstopping?

texts:
Question: Do non-load bearing basement walls with metals framing and foam insulation (such as extruded polystyrene) in a single-family home require fireblocking and draftstopping?

If so, what is the recommended method to implement it for the type of construction mentioned in this question: Should I use steel or wood studs for basement exterior walls?. Particularly, I am looking for answers that include recommended types of inorganic draftstopping materials to place directly against a concrete/cinderblock wall to prevent mold.

Background: I see a lot of information about using extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam insulation and metal stud framing in basements with concrete/cinderblock walls similar to the accepted answer of this question: Should I use steel or wood studs for basement exterior walls?, but I never see any mention of fireblocking or draftstopping.

Often times, a continuous 2" application of XPS board is recommended to be placed directly against the concrete wall before putting framing up and I have not seen any articles which advise to creating breaks in the foam for draftstops. Needing to use draftstops also seemingly defeats the purpose of creating a continuous 2" foam barrier for moisture if you have to put approved draftstop materials directly against the concrete well because most are organic in nature (e.g. gypsum board, rockwool, etc.).

I was planning to put both draftstops and fireblocks in place because I believe the XPS board prevents the claim of "noncombustible materials". However, can I claim that the whole assembly is made of noncombustible materials and save time and money both safely and in accordance with code? I am pretty sure the answer is no, but it would be nice to get confirmation and recommended methods for doing so if required.

-- From an FAQ on Owens Corning's XPS board (this is the board I am planning to use):

"Q: Can FOAMULAR® be left exposed in interior applications?

"A: No. To comply with building codes, all foam plastics must be covered with a 15 minute thermal barrier. Gypsum board, ½” thick is a common covering.

"...

"Q: What are the flame spread and smoke developed ratings for FOAMULAR®?

"A: For all unfaced FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene insulation products, surface burning characteristics are flame spread 5, and smoke developed 45-175 depending on thickness. Surface burning characteristics are determined in accordance with ASTM E84, “Test Methods for Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials.” Typical building code maximums are 75 flame spread and 450 smoke developed."


texts: Can I use a 3-way switch as a single-pole switch?

texts: Can I connect a 3 way switch to be used as a single pole?  I accidentally purchased a couple of them and only need to control one light each.


texts: How to wire a light with multiple black/white/green wires from the ceiling?

texts:
There are multiple wires coming from my ceiling, 4 black, white, and green, and 1 yellow wire.

Our light has 1 black, 1 white, and 1 yellow/green.

I wired:
- the black on the light to the bundle of blacks from the ceiling.
- the white on the light to the bundle of whites from the ceiling.

Then plugged in a light bulb. The light bulb was ALWAYS ON no matter what light switch I toggled.

How should I be wiring this? Thanks.


texts: How can I disconnect this leaking sprayer hose?

texts:
I am helping a family member with some things around the hose and discovered that their kitchen faucet is leaking from the base of the sprayer hose while it is being used.

I would like to disconnect the hose so I can examine and replace the parts as needed. However, I can't figure out how to disconnect the hose from the base of the spray nozzle. If I grip the hose in one hand, and turn the nozzle with the other hand, the nozzle rotates freely. Thus it does not appear to be a threaded connection.

I'm not sure of the manufacturer and model so my attempts at research have thus far failed. Here's a picture of the nozzle where the hose connects to its base:


texts: Ductless Mini Split heat pump not cooling / heating outside of room

texts: I have a wall mounted mini split (Fujitsu 9,000 BTU) installed in my bedroom over my bed, intended to heat and cool my upstairs (there has no suitable location in the hallway).  It is a standard sized bedroom, and the heat pump does an excellent job cooling and heating the room (I can get the room down to 60F on a hot day).  However, here is the issue - the cooled or heated air will not leave the room.  The doorway is about 10 feet away and you can feel it blowing if you stand in the threshold, but the airflow makes a dead stop there.  I have tried pointing the air at different heights and even tried putting a fan in the door way to push it along, but nothing seems to work (heat seems to flow a bit better than the AC air).  The installer has ensured me that the heat pump has plenty power for the job and it is an air pressure issue??  Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Can I span 23 feet with doubled 2x8 floor joists?

texts: We are remodeling the first floor in our 2 flat.  We use it as a single family.  Tearing out a wall between kitchen and "second" bedroom from when it was originally built in 1926.  The current floor joists are 2x8 and span the 24 feet, but there is a wall mid way.  If we were to double up the joists to add additional support would that work?  These are 16" on center.  We have steel columns in the basement supporting the house.  Or do we need to do a header to support the second level?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: How do I repair this hole in my ceiling?

texts:
So I did something stupid and I screwed up my den ceiling:

For scale, the hole itself is about 3-4 inches long, but the overall damaged area is about 9 inches in diameter.

It's hard to see, but it looks like there is about 1 inch worth of layers of plaster (?) and what looks like cardboard.  The ceiling has a texture to it that I would also like to preserve.

What materials do I need, how do I go about repairing this, and how do I get that textured look?


texts:
So a fuse(3) on my control board blew at the same time my ac capacitor did. I replaced the capacitor with the exact one that was on the old unit and when replacing the fuse noticed a stray red wire... This wire and the white one next to it goes all the way to my ac. When I stripped the wire back a bit and connected it to R (you can see in this picture)

the ac finally turned on and everything seemed to run fine until I noticed the fan on the outside unit was never turning off. At first I thought stuck contoller but now I'm wondering if I messed up a wire choice?


texts: How to fix loose Accuride loose kitchen drawers?


texts: Basement Utility Sink Draining into Auxiliary Vent Stack

texts: I want to install a utility sink in my basement. The problem is that the main sewer line is on the other side of the house and there is no way to run a pipe from where I want the sink to the main sewer line easily and without running through a finished portion of the basement. There is however an auxiliary vent pipe right next to where I want the utility sink (see pic). This vent pipe vents fixtures in the second level of my house and directly vents through the roof. Here's my question. Is it okay and to code if I drained the utility sink directly into the auxiliary vent? Is this considered wet venting? Would you expect there to be any problems with this set up? Thanks!


texts: Should HVAC registers be closed or open when HVAC is broken, & window AC units are in use?

texts:
The property in question in located in a hot climate, with high-90's being regular during the summer. The compressor has died on the property's HVAC, and for the time being, the space will be cooled by multiple window AC units and many fans, while funds are gathered for the refurbishment.

The home is a single story ranch-style, with registers in the ceiling, which lead through the un-conditioned attic space.

For the sake of maximum comfort, should the HVAC registers in each room be in the OPEN or CLOSED position?


texts: What energy saving methods can I use for a new gas water heater?

texts:
I am getting a new water heater (Bradford White RG2PV50T6N, which is gas powered). I was wondering if I could do anything easy to make it more energy efficient.

1) Would a jacket help conserve heat? Several documents I read said not to bother unless the tank feels warm to the touch. The tank I have now does not; I assume the new one won't either. Are the new ones so well insulated that a jacket is pointless?

2) I was considering adding a timer so that it would only heat water at the times I need it. But, again, some reading made it sound like it was pointless. If I understand correctly, the tank will heat new water as I use up the old water, and then should be insulated well enough to keep the water hot all day without expending any additional energy. It sounded like a timer is mostly useful to heat water during non-peak energy times--which doesn't apply in my case because I have a gas-powered tank.

Am I wrong? Would a jacket and/or timer be helpful? Or is the best energy savings just to turn the temperature down a few degrees?


texts: How can I make it easier to get to the sprinkler valves in the future?

texts:
I'm digging up my sprinkler valves for what is probably the 3rd time in as many years.  I'm replacing this valve on the right which isn't closing to cut off the water properly.

I dug for about 2 hours through clay and rock to get this far.  And it's 100 degrees outside so I had to stop.

Can I replace these circular round box with a big valve box?  The purpose being less digging next time another valve needs to be replaced.  Ideally I could leave these pipes exposed so I don't have to push all this dirt back again.

Are there any other ways to make this job or future jobs easier?  I feel like this setup is a huge mess.  Especially compared to setups I've seen on youtube demonstrations.


texts: How to enter surface-mount main panel from back w/ a 1/0 Al SER cable?

texts:
I need to bring a 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 AL SE cable from a 2x4 wall into the back of the main service panel (it is a new subpanel feeder).
The main service panel is surface-mounted on the outsde, on the siding. The wall is 2x4, wood T111 siding, drywall inside (garage) and can be exposed/accessed easly from inside.
It seems the 3.5" of space in the wall is rather tight for the 1/0 AL NM cable to bend.

is it possible (to code) for the cable thickness to fulfill minimum band radius (MBR)?

what fittings to use? (do they need to be liquid tight as the connection to the panel is kinda on the outside (well...panel-on-siding wall but there is no waterproofing there)?

any ideas and advices to solve this problem?

I was thinking about using a conduit right angle fitting to ease the bend (strip the outside sheathing from the SER to ease MBR, after it enters the fitting) but not sure if code/inspector/sanity allows it and how to secure the cable to the fitting?
The new cable is labeled: ALUMAFLEX AA8178 TYPE SE STYLE SER TYPE XHHW-2 CDRS 600V
BTW, There is already an existing, in-service sub panel feeder which enters from the rear via a regular NM clamp connector. The old cable is "thinner" so the bend was easier (though still 100A breaker). This must have been inspected as it was installed when new 200A service was installed so a non liquid-tight was ok?


texts: What is the difference between an electronic and a magnetic ballast?

texts:
The ballast in my bathroom burned out (brand new bulb won't light up).  Looking online, it seems that there are two different types of ballasts: electronic and magnetic.

I recently replaced my kitchen ballast, and the new one was much lighter than the old one.  I assume that is because the new ballast is electronic and the old one was magnetic.  Other than weight, what is the difference in terms of reliability, longevity, efficiency, etc.?


texts: Should I pigtail from the bundle of neutrals in order to get the needed neutral connection?

texts: My new universal dimmer (legrand adorne) has no wires of its own.  It requires a neutral.  My neutral wires are bundled together and capped in the box.  Should I pigtail from that bundle in order to get my needed neutral connection?


texts: Do I just leave it? PC case had rubber legs but it was stuck to the floor and when I tried to flip it, part of the wooden floor came off with it.


texts: Must a 4 ton variable speed air handler use a 4 ton heat pump?

texts:
This is an air conditioning question:

Must a 4 ton variable speed air handler use a 4 ton heat pump or can a 3.5 ton heat pump  or smaller size heat pump be used instead?


texts: Adding new electrical outlet to formerly exterior wall, via crawlspace?

texts:
I have a formerly exterior wall that is now a wall to an enclosed sun porch.  I want to add an electrical outlet there.
The nearest outlet is on a 15 amp circuit and is located about 2 feet away, on a perpendicular wall.
My thought was to use the crawlspace to connect 2 feet to the new outlet, which would avoid drywall removal and patching.  However, I don't know if exterior walls are accessible from the crawlspace or not (the sun porch is on a slab, no crawl space).
Any advice?  I plan to also research the specifics of adding a new electrical connection, but I wanted to resolve the question of where the line would go, first.


texts: How do I fix or finish a partially sanded wood floor

texts:
In my home office (it was a bedroom before and will be one in the future) I have a wooden floor (not laminate) and I have an office chair with plastic wheels on it. Over a number of years these plastic wheels have "sanded" the varnish/finish off the wood and I'm now at the point that I want to repair this.
Is it possible for me to paint something over this section of floor to make it look like (or almost like) the rest of the floor. If so, what would that something be?


texts: Certified ON technician said nothing wrong with Frigidaire oven, but it still smells smoky. Second opinion?

texts:
Sequel. Bro's wife's boss found her  technician certified by Ontario to inspect Frigidaire range yesterday. He found nothing wrong – he opened display panel on cook top, tested electricity, and no electricity leaked. He said he saw no evidence  the oven turned itself on to bake – he said he believes customers, but not this time. He said not worry about smoky smell. He charged $200 CAD, but he offered return for free if still issue.

After technician she never used range and opened open door to air out smokyness.  Oven has always been empty. But today oven smells smoky again. The oven hasn't turned itself on again.

Anyone know why oven smells smoky when empty?
Smart for her to pay a second opinion – a different technician?


texts: what size should gas grill burner flames be

texts:
i have a charbroil 'red' grill. it used to get very hot. now I  hold my hand over cooking surface for 5 to 10 seconds. not good.

yes i tried to reset the regulator based on most internet suggestions

i see nice blue flames coming out of the tiny holes but they are only about 1/4 to 3/8 inch in length . moving knobs from low ot high seems to have this small effect.

yes, there is a hairline crack on the gas tube (its acts like extra holes i guess in that blue flame comes out of that too)

Should there be much larger flames at high setting?


texts: Can hook up this light fixture to a cord?

texts:
Is it possible that this light fixture could have a power cord connected to it? For home use...

The tag says:
Caution (Please read below):
Factory wiring is for all "on" operation
For switching application: (W/ BDP)
connect red wire to a switched input
For switching application: (W/O BDP)
connect grey/red to a switched input
Other label: 120/277 volts,  model "ibc 454 mv"

Wiring instructions


texts: Is it safe to touch wire testing at low to medium voltage on a 14 or 12 gauge wire, 15 or 20 amp (current) circuit?

texts:
Title is the question.

I'm using a Klein NCVT- 3 Voltage tester with a bar graph indicating voltage, and don't see anything in the instructions, and haven't ran across anything in a textbook or internet on this.

Voltage tester is testing at 2 out of 5 bars, still yellow, not red.

Voltage meter indicates <2 Volts.


texts: What's the best way to shore up a ceiling register that is loose?

texts: I have a few ceiling registers which are not flush with the ceiling since the duct has loosened over time.  What's the best way to get them flush with the ceiling?  I thought about driving several sheet metal screws into them but they would go into drywall which has only so much holding strength. Is there a better method?  Thanks


texts: Why doesn't duct tape work well on cables?

texts:
In the past, I've used duct tape on cables (e.g., Power, LAN). For instance, I taped cables to a wall, I taped cables together for storing etc.

The taping often failed after some time: The taping surface on the cable became covered with an extremely sticky film. This film was always very nasty to remove.

Main question:

Is there an alternative adhesive tape that works with cables? It should be strong enough to hold cables to a wall.

I'd also be interested in:

Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? Is it the fault of plasticizers?
Does the sticky film pose a health risk?


texts: How can I figure out why my washing machine is tripping the GFCI receptacle?

texts:
I have a Kenmore 80 Series (Model No. 110.24872300) washing machine which up to this point has been working fine. Since it is near a sink, the outlet it is plugged into is a GFCI outlet. On the last load I came back after letting it run for some time to find that it had tripped the GFCI in the middle of the wash cycle - the washer was still full of soapy water. I reset the outlet and let it run again, only to come down the next morning and find it full of water still (it had tripped during the rinse cycle this time). I reset the outlet again and this time it finished the rest of the cycle.

My guess is that water is somehow getting onto the internal components of the washer and causing it to short - is there any way I can test this theory or fix the problem myself?


texts: What type of tube does this fitting take?

texts:
It is a UK 240v kitchen fitting, I know the tube needs to be about 600mm long, but I don’t know if it needs a T4, T8 or whatever type.

(The old tenant removed the tube and did not replace it, so I could not look at the old tube!   The property is a 2hr drive from me, so I can’t just remove the fitting and take it into a shop.)


texts: Homeowner's Insurance requires electrical panel replacement after 40 years

texts:
A casual reading of my homeowner's insurance policy indicates that electrical panel will need replacement after 40 years. I am located in Virginia USA.

1 Is this an industry standard requirement?
2 What actually needs replacement? Individual breakers? Panel insides? Housing? Other?
3  What are the reasons for this requirement?


texts: 15ft long tubing option for outdoor shade fabric support suggestions

texts:
all.
I am looking to create a structure that will support shade fabric to filter out some of the harsh sun, UV and heat in the desert. the area is approximately 15x26. Although this will be for a gardening purposes the advice I seek is related to the structure I'm trying to create. I'm basically hanging a fabric along the side of my home (the 26 feet length) which I'll connect to the bottom of the terrace porch which has metal posts that I could easily hang my structure from using a medium type of chain. This structure will extend toward the fence which is the 15' from the terraced porch of my home.
My plan was to run some type of tubing that will run along the house at the bottom of the terrace (which is 10ft from the ground) and then create 90 degree supports to connect to another tube that will run parallel butted up next to my fence. This tube along the fence will be approximately 8ft from the ground. So basically I want to create a rectangular shaped grid that's 26'x15' and have support tubes running along the 15' width every three feet, more or less. Then I'll drape my shade fabric over this to grow my plants. The fabric isn't heavy at all. This is the item I'm thinking about using:
https://cloudtops.com/product/knitted-shade-cloth-pearl-white-40/
My questions are, other than EMT what other options for tubing do I have that aren't too pricey that will not sag and not rust too fast? I'm hoping to get around 15 or more years out of my project.


texts: How to bid a job repairing hidden damage in stages to avoid a "time and materials" job

texts:
My bathroom has some water damage from a poorly designed tile job.  The window sill is low enough to get wet but is simply tiled rather than a solid shelf.  It's also not properly sloped.  This has allowed water to leak into the wall and has weakened the backing board to the point that the tiled wall gave in when leaned on.

One builder wouldn't even estimate the cost of the job.  Wanted "time and materials" for the repair and a contract to demolish and remodel the bathroom.

I have been burned by "time and materials" jobs before.  Yet I understand that it's difficult to evaluate how big the job is when you can't see all the damage.

Here's my question:  Am I being unreasonable if I insist that the job be done in three stages that are bid separately?

A bid for the demolition to expose the problem

A bid for the repair rather than any "time and material work"

A bid for the remodel for any upgrades to the bathroom.

I could take competing bids at each stage and be sure of what I'm getting into before agreeing.  Builders wouldn't have to agree to any work they haven't had a chance to fully see.

I'd like to know if this kind of plan is unheard of or unreasonable.  Is there any good reason to refuse to work this way?  An alternative way to structure the job? If there is something I simply don't understand please let me know.


texts: Running computers in basement storage room safely

texts:
I have kinda an odd one. I'm mostly concerned about fire safety here and am not concerned about power, I already know how to handle that properly.

I have a somewhat large basement with an unfinished storage room that is probably 150 square feet total. The room also contains the gas water heater and furnace.  I have a 19" server rack that I'd like to put in there and run 2 or 3 servers in it at a time. These are servers that draw 300W of power and so generate about 3000 BTUs of heat per hour.  There are not any combustibles next to the water heater, furnace or servers.

My questions are:

Is it safe to run servers/computers next to a gas water heater if I
give them about 3-4 feet of clearance?
Will I have to worry about the heat generated by the servers not being handled by the airflow?


texts: Any tips on painting facis boards that are in full sun for the majority of the day? I have facia boards that need to be painted about every 5 yrs or so due to peeling. Do i need to prep better? I usually use latex paint.


texts: Gravel patches in concrete after sanding

texts: We recently sanded our concrete  in our garage to prepare for a reseal. These gravel patches came up randomly throughout the space. How do we fix this before resealing?


texts:
I am just starting to build a deck. I dug the holes for my posts. I live in Michigan, frost line is 42". I dug down to 48" with the intent of putting a 6" pole barn biscuit to use as the footing.
In 2-3 holes, they immediately filled with water after getting to depth. I'm not sure if the water table is just super high, or what's going on. It was not rain related as everything was dry during this time.
As I understand it, as long as the water is pooling under 42", it shouldn't be an issue. It's below the frost line, thus won't freeze. It's at the footing height or under, thus won't deteriorate the post.
Is that correct understanding? If for some reason the water is pooling above 42", what corrective actions can I take?
I was thinking I would dig down another 1' and fill it with gravel. Then put the biscuit on top of there. I'm just concerned that it will still result in water pooling above 42" though.


texts: How to properly wire a ceiling light fixture?

texts:
I rent an apartment and a tenant installed ceiling fan that was not well secured to the ceiling.  I removed the fan and attempted to re-install the original light fixture after he moved out.

I am having issues with the wiring.  There are 2 black wires and 2 white wires in the ceiling.  On the fixture itself there are 2 black wires and 2 white wires as well as a small ground wire.

I try to wire it white to white and black to black.  When I turn the power back on, the light switch is off but the light comes on.  If I turn the switch on it's blows the breaker?

Should I have 4 connections 2 x black to black and 2 x white to white or should I have two connections - all black together under 1 cap and all white together under 1 cap?

What am I missing?  How should this be properly wired?  Or is there something else going wrong (maybe an issue with the fixture)?


texts: Exterior metal threshold to transition from concrete to tiled entryway?

texts:
Is it possible to transition from the sidewalk concrete to my tiled entryway by using an aluminum exterior grade threshold? I am thinking of something along the lines of this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-Flat-Top-2-1-2-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Saddle-Threshold-99028048000/205967458
I just had my tiler guys finish the job and I can't believe they installed a tile with a chip in it. But it's along the edge and it kinda also looks unfinished anyway I thought a simple aluminum exterior grade threshold would make it look more finished and hide the small chip. Here are a couple of images:

I live in the desert so and this area is covered by an eve and only gets about three hours sun a day and approximately a mere four inches of rain a year. Will my idea weather well or can anyone recommend something else?


texts: My mini fridge had a frosty back wall, so I turned it off for 24 hours. There was water on the floor through the back of the fridge, why it happened?

texts:
I know that there is a drain hole, and then that water is drained through it and then evaporated by the evaporator, and when the fridge does not work - nothing will evaporate the water. So does the fridge maybe have a tray where it is supposed to temporary hold up water until it evaporates it, but because there was a lot of frost and nothing to evaporate it, the tray just overflew hence the water on the floor?

Also, could this overflow damage something, I guess if this is the case the tray should not be close to the electronics - because everyone turns their fridge willingly or not once in a while and some people might even have more frost in their fridge.

I am not linking the mini fridge model because it is a generic one, but they most likely are all the same for the 120L and around - mine has a properly enclosed freezing part, which didn't have any freeze in it.


texts: My kitchen (late 90's contruction) has wallpaper that was glued to wallboard.  I know this because all homes in my neighborhood have had same and I learned this when I had a bathroom remodeled.   The bathroom, I had all the wallpaper removed, areas were spackled/sanded/ painted and is perfect.  Since the bathroom  was done several years ago and is perfect but was  expensive for the small area, I knew  as large as the kitchen is I  needed to check see my other options.   Two months ago I hired painters to paint my home  interior and to paint over the wallpaper.  I was told they would tear any lose areas, spackle the torn areas , and  spackle the seams.    They applied kilz and  2 coats of paint.   Once the work was completed, there are large areas where the spackle was not smoothed and the areas are  very visible. Several seams have areas  that were  not been spackled.  I called the owner of the company, he came to the house  and  said they don't do drywall (which is odd since their invoices also mention wall board and the fact they took the job saying they could do it).   I am at a loss with messed up kitchen walls and will be out even more expense to get it fixed.   The only thing the owner offered to do is to repaint once I have the dry wall repaired.  At this point I am not sure what is my best course for repair- I am concerned with the wallpaper on wallboard, the spackle, the kilz, and 2 coats of paint what will happen if someone says they can sand the areas and repaint.   Any input regarding this will be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I took down an old floodlight that stopped working.  Now that the floodlight is down, I think I see why it is not working.  If you look at the image below, it looks to me like the seal on the floodlight had broken and was allowing water behind it.  We had a heavy thunderstorm last night and the board behind the flood light is pretty saturated.  What concerns me the most is the "burn" marks that appear on the electrical "sheath."  See this image - am I safe to use the same electrical chord even tho it appears to have burn marks on it?  Or should I call an electrician to run me a new line to this location?

(The reason I suggest running a new line, is I have tried to pull the wire to see if I can cut off the burned section and still have enough wire to work with, but when I pull the wire there is no play in it)

EDIT
This is what I took off.  No box included (which confused me, just wires from back of floodlight to wires coming out of wall)


texts: What could be damaged if I shorted the R wire to the C wire at my thermostat?

texts: OK... so in trying to install a thermostat (and testing to see if the old thermostat was bad) I inadvertently jumped the R and C... (I actually jumped the R and G terminals but the G terminal was connected to the C terminal back at the HVAC).  So I shorted it out, no?  How bad might the damage be?


texts: Raising Concrete Floor then install Vinyl Plank Flooring On Top

texts:
In order to be level with hall, I need to raise the height of the floor by 1/2"-1" in a room in which I am going to be installing vinyl plank flooring.

Previously the room was carpeted so with the padding it was not as obvious a difference in levels.

The floor is concrete.

What are my options for bringing up the height of the floor ?
 Can I use foam board, or do I have to use Hardy Backer or DenseShield Or something else ?

Thanks


texts:
The context is a set of outdoor stairs.

Are there any clever techniques to minimize flickering that occurs when the sun is transitioning (setting / rising)?

If not, is there a method to determine which of these floodlights have been designed to not flicker during the sun's transition?

https://www.homedepot.com/s/dusk%2520to%2520dawn%2520floodlight?NCNI-5

I am speculating that positioning or shielding the photosensor so as to minimize light originating from the bulbs is desirable.   Any links to good t fixtures / sensors, you have installed are appreciated.


texts:
OK everyone. 1st time on Stack Exchange here and I’m looking for a few answers on wattage and not the simple stuff you should already know before going off half cocked buying a gen set. OK.

First.—- I have a generator that’s 12000 watts surge and 9,500 watts running. However the AVR is only good from 7kw-9kw plus the alternator/genhead has a sticker when disassembled that says 9.0kw. Now for the kicker.... if I didn’t tear it all down or load test it etc would an easier way be to find the 2 pole breaker on the generator and find the rated amps and multiply by 240volts?

If that’s the case my max (rated) output would only be 8,880 watts at 240 volts from my 37amp 120/240 volt 2 pole switch at the 50amp plug on my generator.

Am I wrong or can I just find the amperage of the 2 pole breaker and multiply that by 240 instead of hooking up my meter etc etc??? I’m just trying to find out the easiest way before buying. I’ll only be using a 9,000watt or more (running watts) with a 50 amp outlet to run my home off a interlock.

Ps does the same go for amps on the 2 separate push button breakers  for 120/240 volt 50 amp outlets? I’d simply assume half the total on one 120 leg and half on the other 120 leg.... any help would be HUGE thanks guys n gals.


texts: Garage door opener remotes suddenly open incorrect door

texts:
Both my remotes stopped working today. The wired wall button still opens the door. If I click my remote button multiple times, it opens the other garage door.

Both openers are craftsman and the one with the non-working remotes at least 10 years old, the other is over 16 years old.  The remotes have worked fine up until today.

Any clue as to what is going on? I've seen answers about interference and replacing the remotes. But, if the remote does not work, why would it now open the other door?  Thanks in advance for your help.


texts:
I've spent the past few months getting my flat renovated, and would now like to build some bookshelves across two of the walls in my living room, and around the corner that joins these walls.

The walls are each around 3000mm long, and the ceiling height is 2700mm. I have a corner sofa that runs along the walls, and I'd like the bookshelves to only cover the area of the walls above the sofa. One of the walls is an old lathe and plaster with stone behind it; the other wall is brick. I'd like the sofas to be as close to the wall as possible, so I'm guessing that the weight of the shelves (and contents) can't really be supported by the floor.

What's the best way to build these shelves? I have some timber that's been removed from my flat during the renovation that I'd like to use, but I don't mind buying new materials if necessary.


texts:
I keep looking for a situation like mine on this website and other websites, but I was unable to find one.

A 3 wire oven (two insulated hots and 1 bare twisted wire) is connected in an old main panel where the neutral and ground bus bars were bonded.  A new main panel was setup elsewhere, thus, the old main panel with the oven was converted to a subpanel and the neutral and ground bus bars were separated.

FOR NOW, should the bare twisted wire be on the isolated neutral bus bar or on the grounded bus bar? The oven is plugged into a 3 prong outlet.

I understand that an updated oven now has 4 wires: 2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground.  I can add in an insulated neutral wire and change the outlet at a later date when the oven is updated.


texts: why is a lamp socket labeled "FOR TEMPORARY USE ONLY"?

texts: i am hanging a ceiling lamp which came with an cord set only rated 60W -- insufficient for my purposes. poking around in my parts bins, i found a rubberized E26 socket rated something like 660W, but labeled "FOR TEMPORARY USE ONLY". what does this rule mean, and can i use the socket anyway?


texts:
I had recent water damage remediation done where a large portion of drywall was ripped out behind the fridge which has exposed a firewall, as well as an adjacent perpendicular wall and part of the ceiling above as well.

I'm not 100% sure but it seems as though it's 1/2" thick. Some parts it appears to be around 5/8". Should I stick with 1/2" drywall (moisture resistant as well?) for everything in this case? The unit above us that caused the damage has the same exact layout with the kitchen and fridge...

I have a length of leftover 1/2" drywall from another project and I was putting it up against the wall next to the portions that are cut-out, and it seems to fit the width. Of course, I don't have any 5/8" drywall to compare it to. I'm guessing the 5/8" would pop-out more.

The concern is if using 1/2" drywall over that firewall is not "up to code"


texts: How do I identify and replace unusual screws?

texts:
I've got a desk held together by these really strange screws below. The tapped end goes into one end of a joint, the plastic piece goes into the other end of the joint, and then the head of the screw goes into the plastic piece, with an additional screw (shown in bottom picture) to hold it in place. The pen is for scale, with the screw about 1.5 inches / 4 cm in length.
While I'm not optimistic that someone here would recognize these two pieces, is there a general process for identifying parts like this? I'd 3D print a copy of the plastic piece if I had some way of reproducing all the grooves inside it and getting a matching screw, but I have no idea if these types of pieces are standardized, and if so what they're called and where I'd look.
Thanks in advance for any help here, you guys are awesome!
Edit:
It’s not IKEA. I brought it to them and they said they’d never seen the parts before.


texts: What is the relative importance of cut-retardant safety gloves when using a chainsaw?

texts:
I am evaluating some cut-retardant gloves for use with a chainsaw.  At first the idea of protecting my hands appealed to me, but later I couldn't really justify to myself why that purchase would make sense if the rest of my torso was unprotected.

I'd like to know if there is a rationale for spending money to protect your hands before spending money to protect the rest of your torso, including arms.  It seems like your hands are actually not that likely to be hit by the chainsaw's blade.  It's kind of hard for me to visualize how that would even happen, or at least happen at a frequency that is much higher than the frequency of another part of my torso being hit.


texts: New portable AC needs single circuit outlet, what does that mean, and how can I tell if my outlet is the right kind for my 14K BTU AC?

texts:
I just bought a De'Longhi portable air conditioner, 14,000 BTU. I live in a high-
rise apartment in Maryland, USA. We are not supposed to install window AC units here. I'm not sure what the reason is, if they just don't want you to use too much electricity (incl. in rent), or because they don't like the look of typical window AC units hanging out, or some other reason I don't understand. The building is old (1966), poorly maintained, and the AC here is completely inadequate. At times my apt. on the top floor is 80-90 degrees F., and because of health issues I cannot tolerate the heat and high humidity here. (Our AC comes from the radiator and provides  NO dehumidification. A lot of people here get mold on their units, mine was black!)

The portable 14K BTU AC I got requires a "single circuit outlet". How can I tell if I have the right kind of outlet by a window in my apt.? The De'Longhi AC is inside, but it has an exhaust tube that needs to vent out a window. Is it OK to use an outlet that has something else plugged into it, as long as I don't use both the AC and the other thing(s) at the same time? Should I unplug one thing while the other is being used? Could something bad happen if I don't do this right? I'm afraid to ask the buildings maintenance guys, because I don't know if I'm allowed to have this AC in my apt., and they could report me to the management. If you know about these kinds of things, please help. Thanks.


texts: I just purchased a home and am going through the process of correcting deficiencies and such. In two bedrooms, I have some rather loud baseboard heaters. I understand it's likely due to expanding and contracting, but is there something I can do to quiet the noises?  Thanks!


texts: How can I repair a hole in bathroom wall tile?

texts:
My shower had two towel bar anchors mounted on the shower wall when I moved in.

Eventually, one of the anchors has broken, and taken the plaster it was mounted to with it. This has left a 2 in. hole in the wall surrounded by tile, and no exposed surface to fix any replacement wall to without tearing out additional tile.

I don't care about replacing the anchor (I hated it), but I need to figure out how to fill the hole permanently before the moisture sets into the wall cavity.

Any suggestions?


texts:
I have these caps just outside of my house that I’m assuming are sewer clean outs. The problem is the pipe is all corroded and the caps are PVC that are just set on top of it. They don’t seal as there are no more threads.
Do I have to completely dig out the access and replace with PVC, or is there another way to attach to the metal and seal near the surface?
What’s the best way to remediate this so I have a seal?


texts: Hanging exercise equipment on cinderblock wall

texts:
I live in a townhouse and am separated from my neighbors by a cinderblock wall. In my garage it is pretty exposed.
I would like to hang a kayak, punching bag and pull up bar off of the wall.
Kayak will weight about 70 pounds (plus 10 pound for the hangers). Punching bag will weight 100 pounds (plus 15 pounds for the hanger). Pull up bar will weight 15 pounds plus it needs to be able to hold my 250 pound body that will be spasming out on it trying to perform a pull up (so I am guessing that might generate about 550 pounds of force).
Can I, and if so how would I go about hanging each of the three items listed above?

The heavy bag hanger will be this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011UF54RW
Pull up bar will be similar.

I already hanged kayak and it seems to hold.

My biggest fear is cinderblock wall collapsing since I heard that cinderblock can't handle anything being drilled on it. It is supporting second floor and I don't want the wall collapsing.

EDIT: added pictures and more description


texts: How can I convert my halogen under cabinets dimmable lights to led if I do not know where the transformer is?

texts: we can not find the transformer, I read that i can also replace the G4 lights directly?. I would really love some help


texts:
I need to install a NEMA 14-30 outlet in my garage. It will be installed within 2 to 3 feet of the breaker box. My question is for esthetics. Can I run the wire from the bottom of the box through a pipe over the wall and install the box below the panel or do I need to run the wire up through the ceiling and then come down to install at a particular height? Where would you run the wire and install the outlet for a professional looking job?

Thanks in advance for your input.

UPDATE: Thanks for all the input. Ive decided to go with a NEMA 14-30 on a 30 amp breaker and 10/3 wire. Everything went well.


texts: I have a Lenox Merit system in the house. I am trying to install Nest E thermostats and want to do it with a C wire. I noticed an unused Blue Wire (pic attached) at the thermostat location and then in the attic saw that the Blue wire is not attached to the C at the circuit board. There is another wire in the C. Do I just add the blue wire in the same location ?


texts: Condensate drain line freezing. Need an internal solution

texts: I have a residential 16-SEER four-ton air handler/heat pump unit with a built-in humidifier.  Both summer AC condensate and winter humidifier over-run feed into a condensate pump which is on the basement floor next to the air handler. The discharge from the pump feeds a 3/4” plastic tube, which travels into the basement overhead and then outside to a drainage area. There is a finished bathroom in the basement and NO utility floor drain. Laundry is on the first floor, so limited access to that drain. The problem is that my outside drain line freezes and the condensate pump backs up and shuts down. The float valve NC contacts in the pump shut down the humidifier so no more water comes in, but then the humidifier is off.  How can I drain the pump discharge inside the house to an existing basement DWV pipe?


texts: Why I am having eye irritation problem with oil radiator in my home (in India/Asia) when I never had such problem in Europe

texts:
I used to live in Europe, and I loved electronic oil radiators as well as central heating.
This year, I decided to buy an electronic oil radiator for my home in Delhi, India. But whenever I use it, my eyes feels very dry and irritated after 10 minutes.
What is the problem?


texts: Has this siding been installed correctly.  Is there any way to close the gaps?


texts: Need help identifying sillcock valve make / model

texts: Need help identifying the sillcock valve shown in photograph.


texts: Chandelier cord was cut off and sold to me

texts:
Can I add 10’ of 18 gauge wire to 2’ of 16 gauge wire to make the cord longer? It is only used for short term events like weddings.

I am sorry, I gave backwards info: the original cord is 18g and what I have on hand already is 16g. Can I add the 10 feet of additional 16g to the 2feet of 18 gauge that was cut off?


texts:
I know there are a lot of different ways to remove wallpaper, ranging from elbow grease to chemicals and steam machines.

What way(s) work(s) best?


texts: Side effects of wire mesh inside vent covers

texts: I am considering tacking wire mesh (such as from a window screen) onto the inside of my indoor furnace/AC duct vents as well as the outdoor intake vents, for pest control. I know doing it inside the house might be a little overkill, but I'm wondering if there would be any side effects on furnace/AC performance due to the fans having to work harder to force the air through.


texts: How can I stengthen the durability of my newly installed engineered hardwood floor?

texts:
I have new engineered hardwood floors, Santamaria Hardwood Flooring. The veneer is very thin. Before I move in the furniture, I would like to apply polyurethane on my new floors. Can I simply apply a product on the floors as is? In otherwords do I need to prep? If so, what is the process?

Additionally, for this particular job, is one product better than another and what tools will be needed,.


texts:
I am renting a flat (in Germany, in case that matters), and since we moved in, within 7 months, 3 of our kitchen-appliances broke down with bad smell or even smoking.
It did not happen AT ALL in the previous flat!

What could be the reason, and how could we check it?

Thanks!


texts: How many 12-2 cables can I put in a short run of conduit?

texts:
I am putting in a few new outlets in an enclosed patio, running a new circuit through the attic using 12-2.  I would like to go from the panel to the first outlet, then to the second and then the 3rd.  The run would be via the attic and the cable would just be exposed on the vertical run from the attic down to the outlet.

I would like to run this exposed section, about a 10 ft vertical run per outlet, in conduit.  I would prefer to not have to run multiple conduits per box and was hoping I could use 3/4" LT or PVC - again just for the vertical section from the attic to the outlet.  It isn't a wet or damp location, I just want it protected from any possible accidents.

Would this be acceptable to pull two 12-2 cable per 3/4" conduit at least for the first 2 outlets or do I need to put in a junction box along the way and then just run a 1/2" down to the outlet? I'd really prefer not to do this.

I know I shouldn't put cable in conduit for the full run, which I am not doing. This is just for exposure protection and I am not clear what the best practices are.


texts: Attaching drywall to cracked/sagging plaster ceiling?

texts:
I have a plaster & lath ceiling in a bedroom that is in need of repair - it's intact for the most part, but it's pretty unsightly. Since the entire ceiling is full of cracks, I'd rather simply cover it with a layer of 1/2" sheet rock.

Would the drywall be sufficient to clamp the sagging parts to the lath/studs, or should I use plaster washers and then attach the drywall? I know furring strips and then drywall would probably be the safest bet, but I'd rather try to keep as much ceiling height as possible.

Thanks


texts:
Ran a few calculators but, well, don’t understand the results.

Building a table for a large object shaped somewhat like a Green Egg grill. Design is similar to this:

Build your own big green egg table

Difference is that the table top on mine will have a 96”x28” footprint.

The longitudinal beams are then right at 89”. That seems like a pretty good length to not have center supports in contact with the ground. So is four legs enough here, or should I up it to six or eight? All cedar construction which is light, plus a large BGE, which comes in at around 175lbs.


texts: Kerdi shower pan in a shower with 2 drains

texts:
Well my simple bathroom refresh has become a full on gut and remodel. I ripped out the tub/shower and plan on turning it into a large walk in shower approx 43" × 72".  Since I already have 2 complete and separate sets of plumbing, and I plan on putting 2 shower heads each with a couple body sprayers. I was thinking it would be wise to use both drains as well, that is easy enough.

My question/problem is, I want to use Schluter Kerdi shower pan system, as this is my first shower. Would it be unwise to take two of 48" × 48" shower pans and cut them down to fit my space, so I can incorporate both drains? I'm afraid cutting them each down so much will reduce the grade of the slope, and be basically counter productive to the purpose of wanting 2 drains. The house was built in the 2000s so it has 2" drain pipes, and to be honest there will probably be very few times all of the shower heads/sprayers will be used at the same time. Am I making this overly complicated? Should I just cut/cap one of the drains, or will my plan provide the benefit I am  hoping for (better drainage)?


texts: What is the best way to shorten legs on a table and chairs?

texts:
A few years ago we bought a "bar height" kitchen table and chairs.  It seemed like a good idea at the time but we hate it now.  It's terrible to have to sit with your feet not touching the floor for long periods.

So my question is what is the best way to cut off the exact same length on all the legs on the table and chairs so nothing wobbles (too much)?  The chairs have curved legs in the back so by the time they reach the floor they're angling a bit.

I don't mind renting a tool if the accuracy would be worth it.


texts: Kenmore: freezer working, refrigerator not due to frozen air return...replacement needed?

texts:
I have a Kenmore Coldspot (model 106.57022601) side-by-side refrigerator.  About a couple of years ago, we had a problem with the freezer working great, but the refrigerator not working.  We called a great repairman who found that due to a faulty thermostat/heater, our evaporator coils were frozen, which blocked airflow into the fridge.  He fixed it, and everything went back to normal.

This happened again about a week ago...when I put my hand up to the inbound airflow duct (which blows cold air into the fridge from the freezer) and felt no air movement, I suspected a similar problem.  We couldn't find our former repairman, so we wound up going with a new one (big mistake, but that's another story).  Anyway, to his surprise and ours, the evaporator coils were actually fine:  they weren't frozen, and there was no ice-buildup.  After hemming and hawing for a while, the only thing he found was that the lower, return-airflow duct (from the fridge back to the freezer) was frozen up with ice.  He used a hairdryer to thaw it out and, after also cleaning our condenser coils at the bottom of the refrigerator, started things back up.

Things now seem to be working normally...there is cool airflow coming from the inbound duct again, and the fridge is cool.  However, now my family is suspicious and are pushing the idea of a new refrigerator.  From my research, I found that frozen return-airflow ducts typically result from faulty door seals (I used my hand to check...we don't seem to have that) or possibly from folks not shutting the door properly (which has happened on occasion).  Now I'm wondering:  is there anything else I've missed that could have caused this?  More importantly:  is this a symptom indicating that our refrigerator needs to be replaced soon, or do we just need to be a bit more careful with our fridge doors and replacement is something I can wait on?  I deeply appreciate your input...THANKS!


texts: I have an old unit that has no control board. It works with a sequencer. (Coleman 3500A816) is it possible to wire it up to to be able to call only the blower to come on and not the heat as well? !


texts:
I am wanting to upgrade a garage by putting in a larger 10 space sub panel with a 60 amp feed from the house. I plan to use a 4 wire assembly of #6 copper USE-2 conductors direct buried from house to garage and protected with SCH 80 conduit where emerging from the ground. The sub panel will be main breaker style as to have a means of disconnect in the building. My questions on the project:
Is my wire size adequate and legal on a 60 amp 2 pole breaker in the house which is about 75' away?
Do I need to install a ground rod at the garage location or is the grounding conductor from the main house panel adequate?
Will 1 1/4" SCH80 PVC be large enough to sleeve my 4 wires entering the house?


texts: Where could water be coming from inside the joint between bathtub and wall tiles?

texts:
I wanted to re-do the silicone seal around my bathtub recently, but after removing the old silicone on the side with the shower head, I noticed that the gap between the tub and the wall tiles was a bit wet.

There was never any moment when the water was visibly coming out of the gap, but if I push toilet paper/kitchen towel against the gap it would start getting wet fairly quickly. Leaving it pushed up against the gap for a while and it would get totally soaked.

Now I can see some cracks in the grout above that edge, and thought water probably got through the cracks over time and made the plasterboard behind it wet, so I wanted to give it some time to dry out. However it's now 12 days since my last shower (in that room...), yet the gap is still capable of soaking kitchen towels!

Do you think it is just a case of the gap being tiny and it would take a long long long time for all the water behind to dry out, or could there be something else leaking?

I have tried to look at the floor below that end of of the bathtub, which looks totally dry. The shower pipes did have a leak last year, but that soon caused visible damage to the bottom of the wall on the other side (kitchen). That same wall looks perfectly fine at the moment, and if it's leaking from the shower again I would have expected there to be fair bit of damage by now.

Some photos of the area for reference below:


texts: My Goodman furnace with purchase in 2015 and every year I have to clean the sensor this year it shuts off and I go in the basement and flip the switch and it comes back on it does it every 3 or 4 days


texts: How much active labor is involved in repointing?

texts:
I hired a contractor to perform repointing on my old house and opted to pay them by the hour.  I chose this company is because they know how to make the proper softer mortar for antique Chicago bricks.

Over the course of the 3-day job (to do about ~75' long x ~2' high worth of ground-level mortar), the workers had been standing around for about 1/3 of the time at $95/hr x 2, including when they returned to do the cleaning.

When I spoke with the manager, he told me that this is normal, that they have to wait for mortar and cleaning solutions to be ready.

Can anyone corroborate or contradict what amount of downtime is reasonable?


texts: shower diverter handle leaks water into tub sayco 3 handle

texts: I've got a "sayco" 3 handle tub faucet system.  Middle handle directs water to the tub or the shower.  When I turn on the shower, it leaks a significant amount of water down into the tub still.  What gives?  I tried replacing the stem, same issue.


texts: I want to repoint my walls, but not all of the wall needs repointing, only sections. How should I break up the task? How should I join sections with fresh mortar to sections with existing mortar.


texts: Reusing old service wires from electric furnace to mini-split

texts:
EDIT to answer replies:
@3phaseeel 30-amp wires are 6 AWG aluminum, 50-amp wires are 4 AWG aluminum. The sheathed wires run along the garage roof truss overhead (see picture), exposed for about 28 feet in length, then in-between insulated joists and down a wall, then exposed again in the enclosed crawlspace. I added a picture of the panel door, not sure if the sticker from 1982 adds valuable details.
@manassehkatz Subpanel will be used for dedicated circuits to bathroom heaters, not for heavy-duty usage like welding.
Original question:
I have an unused electric furnace that is serviced by one 30-amp double pole breaker and two 50-amp single pole breakers. I'm thinking of:
(1) reusing the existing wires from the 30-amp circuit to service a new heat pump with a dedicated 25-amp replacement double-pole breaker
(2) reusing the wires from the two 50-amp circuit to service a 100-amp subpanel to serve future wiring projects
Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Or is this plan not as simple as it seems?
Background:
We switched to using a mini-split heat pump two years ago, which cut our electric bill in half, even when used in combination with a few space heaters. Having had good experience with the mini-split, I now want to install another unit to completely replace the space heaters and retire the unused, noisy, leaky, 38-year old furnace. I am a DIY homeowner with advanced beginner to intermediate level of know-how and tools.


texts: Is it OK to use a hair dryer on underground lawn sprinkler pipe?

texts: Repairing black sprinkler pipe when it is chilly outside, i have used a hair dryer to make the plastic pipe more supple.  Makes it much easier to fit the pipe over the repair couplers.  Does the heat damage the pipe?  Other than being electrocuted, is it a bad idea?   Why?


texts:
Is the exposed wire (the one in the photo without the screw) in the photo below my ligting fixtures ground wire and should it be connected to the screw shown?

Edit:

I added another photo: It looks like there is a wire in the background connected to the plate with the colored screw. It looks like the loose copper wire is connected to it.


texts: Will replacing my jet pump with one that has a higher shut-off pressure increase the discharge pressure?

texts:
I'm currently using a pump with a rated shut-off pressure of 69 PSI to supply a house with water. It is sucking through a 1.25" PVC pipe that extends 1100' into a lake. The lift from the water surface to the pump is about 15' and we are 1000' above sea level. Likely due to the lift and friction, the max discharge pressure I am able to get from the pump is 35 PSI.

If I change the pump to a larger jet pump with a rated shut-off pressure of 95 PSI, will I see a higher pressure at the discharge? Or will it simply flow more and the pressure will still be limited to ~35 PSI?

My goal is to supply the house with 40-60 PSI rather than the current 25-35 PSI. I prefer to do this with a single pump, but a booster pump in series is also an option.

Edit:
We have a 26 gallon diaphragm pressure tank after the pump. I'm seeing the peak pressure of 35 PSI once the tank is full. The pressure switch on the pump seems to be working but the pressure never builds higher (and the pump runs continuously unless the pressure switch is set lower).

It is possible our current pump has some worn components which is preventing the higher pressure being reached, even when the tank fills up and the flow is reduced.


texts: How can I replace a board in floating wood floor?

texts:
I have a condo with a concrete subfloor so I floated an engineered wood floor above it. It's not a "click-lock" floor, it's a glued T&G install.

A contractor recently did some work in the unit and damaged one of the boards. How can I replace a single board in the middle of the floor for a floating installation?


texts: Can I use 1/4 inch copper tubing with a compression needle valve to run propane to a gas light? I am worried that gas would leak from the compression fitting


texts: Temporary butt joints for hardwood dance floor panels

texts:
I recently got several large panels of salvaged gym floor with the intent to use them as a snap-together dance floor, installed over carpet. The padding under the carpet is very minimal, so I don't expect to need a subfloor. The flooring is maple tongue-and-groove with 2x3 backing every foot & minimal to no warping. The floor will be approximately 18' by 22' and contain at least 10 seams which do not necessarily all align, as they would in commercial click-together temp floor products.

The problem I'm having is coming up with a connection system that is both secure and can be released without direct access to the underside of the full length of the seam. I'm hoping to do this for around $100 or less. I am open to any and all ideas and have access to a wide variety of tools. Dance floors are subjected to repeated force that tries to walk the panels apart, so I was thinking about a system that passively wants to slide together (some sort of miter cut system and gravity?), can be retightened relatively easily, or has an active hold (I was looking at embedded electromagnets but having trouble finding a system that would come in on budget). Toggle clamps or latches might work but would be hard to reach along the longer seams.

I really want to avoid fasteners through the top surface if at all possible. I can escalate there but if it's achieveable to do this without compromising the dance surface that would be preferable for a first pass at the problem.

Thanks for your help!


texts: What is this four-outlet ungrounded receptacle called?

texts:
I found this receptacle installed and connected in an old work box with a regular receptacle plate in a U.S. house built in the early 1950s.  It accepts up to four ungrounded, unpolarized plugs!

Does anyone know what these were called, and when and why they went out of production?


texts: Should I nail, and glue my hardwood flooring?

texts:
Well since I'm waiting for an answer on my first hardwood floor question I might as well throw my second question out there too.

I’m face nailing my new hardwood flooring (Tasmanian Blackwood 19mm x 130mm) then puttying the knot holes and nail holes. This will be done through the whole house. The subfloor is Particle Board (Brand name: Yellow Tongue) that has been glued and screwed down.

Additional information: This is solid T&G timber flooring that was purchased direct from the saw miller. In the event nailing and gluing is recommended, there would be no moisture barrier.

My question:

Is there a benefit to ‘nail and gluing’ my hardwood flooring to the Particle Board subfloor or will this just interfere with the natural expansion and contraction of the hardwood?


texts: Can I pair two thermostats to work with a single zone system?

texts:
I have a southern California two-story home built in the late '70s. It's a single-zone system with both heating and cooling.  The thermostat is located downstairs. In the summer the upstairs gets too hot and in winter the downstairs is too cold.
I'd like to put a wireless second thermostat upstairs and pair it with the hard-wired one downstairs. That way the system can tell the actual max./min. of the house temperature.
Are there any thermostats out there to do this?  Would it even work?


texts: Why am I not getting enough gas pressure for a BBQ and generator?

texts:
The house we bought in Nov 2014 was plumbed in for LP gas. There is a 500 gal tank outside with a regulator connected to a 1" supply to the house. Once at the house there looks like what would be another regulator the in-ground pipe connects to, just before it enters the house. In the crawlspace the piping is done with the Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST) The 1" line in the crawlspace is branched off with 3/4" lines that feed to a fireplace on the first floor, but is capped off. It feeds the Rinnai Tankless heater on another 3/4" branch. Another two 3/4" branches feed the oven and a gas fireplace on the second floor. The last one, also 3/4" is brought up into the outside wall and turned out to supply, at the time, a future BBQ grill, or so I presumed.

Any ways, I set out to complete the hook up. There is the typical red handled valve on the end of the line on the outside of the wall. It is fitted with 1/2" IPS threads to fit it to the CSST in the wall with the proper adaptors I also presume.  It was capped with a plug which I removed, brushed out the dried pipe dope and fastened a Flame King connector with Teflon tape on the treads.

Before I did the install, I removed the connector with the black hand nut and set it aside for use on the generator. That left the remaining part, after it was installed on the line, for the part that goes to the LP tank on the BBQ to hook right up to the in-house propane, which I did.

When I turned on the red handled valve that charged the line to the newly installed connector to the BBQ, I did not see the indicator gauge move a speck. I did hear the regulator on the BBQ make the soft click when the line is pressurized, so I turned on a burner, which did fire up. Turning on the other 3 burners reduced the flame on the first one as each one turned on. Just as a mention, the one burner, while it was the only one on, did not seem all that spectacular, even less so with the other burners working. The needle on the gauge has still not budged, still below the empty mark.

So I moved onto the generator I wanted to adapt to this too. I took off the old school connector and installed the new part with the black nut with the Teflon tape. The install was a snap. Brought the generator over to the outside connector that I just tried the BBQ on and tightened the connector. I did test ALL connections/threads with soapy water in a spray bottle. No leaks anywhere.
I attempted to start the generator, a Honda 6500 watt twin cylinder 17 hp motor converted to run on LP gas, that ran great on the little tank I had. It would only fire intermittently when I had the choke out. As a note the BBQ and generator, also have regulators too.

I know I am not getting enough propane to the engine, and perhaps the BBQ when it is hooked up. With everything else working fine in the house, what is the issue with the 2 items I am trying to hook up? Are all the regulators choking the flow? I figure the gauge would show something after it had a chance to build up, but there is nothing. Still showing below empty.
I am going to guess the gauge only shows pressure on the non regulated side, so it is moot to even have it, but I could not find one without it, oh well.
To reaffirm the question, why am I not getting enough pressure through? My gas oven, or at least ones I helped install on jobsites have there own regulators too, but the ovens and cooktops worked fine.....


texts: What is the cheapest/easiest way to make bookshelves?

texts:
I own a lot of books, and would love to display them on a bookshelf that covers an entire wall. I love the look of wood, but it is so expensive at the moment. I'm also a bit short of spare time, so I am pondering the cheapest and/or easiest way to make a large bookshelf. The compromise will be on appearance I guess.

I've had a few ideas:

Buy from IKEA (usually very cheap) and butcher it to fit, then paint it to obscure the cheap finish
Salvage unpainted wood from local skips (dumpsters) - I've got lots of wood this way, but never long neat planks, or enough of the same size timber!
Run two parallel wires (or metal rods) from wall to wall, and sit the books on that - would the covers get spoilt?
Somehow make the shelf out of old books from a charity shop?!
Wait for Freecycle to come good...

By the way, I've bought a Kindle, which is going to reduce the problem in the future!


texts:
While preparing for a TV mounting on a wall, I've read on various answers here that the standard spacing is 16 or 24 inches between studs. I've run into a weird situation where there are 3 studs A, B, C. Distance between A and B is 6 inches, and B and C is 16 inches.
Is it possible to have two studs only 6 inches apart? I'm just trying to ensure my stud finder is not detecting a PVC pipe or something.
I'm trying to look for the closest two studs to the center of the room for a TV mount and they turn out to be A and C, but looking for some help to see how to ensure it's indeed a stud and nothing else.
This is the stud finder I'm using.
Edit:
Wow! what an awesome response! Given the interest, I decided to go through the entire wall using my stud finder and map out all the studs (or at least that I think are studs). I then annotated it on the pic I took of the wall where I'm trying to put the TV. Pic attached. A few notes:

2001 construction

This is on the 2nd floor, and I have access to the attic above this ceiling.

Studs are at varying spacing across the wall.

Studs A, B, C in my original post are 4,5,6 in this pic.

Stud #9 shows 1-2 inches wide by the stud finder.

I did the 'knock, knock, Thud!' test and it sounds almost identical for all studs.

As you can see, I'd like to use stud#4,6 for mounting the TV Mount plate. So the main stud in question is #4. I think #5 is surely a stud as that's what the outlet is attached to. I want to avoid using stud 5,6 since that puts the TV off-center by 6-7". Any further help would be appreciated!


texts: How do I wire a bathroom exhaust fan/light to two switches?

texts: I could use a diagram to wire the following: a bathroom exhaust fan with light on two separate switches. I also need a 3rd switch for a vanity light and a GFCI. My power comes from the attic (12/2 with ground). I have pulled a new 14/2 with ground wire from the attic to the 1st double gang box in the bathroom. I have also installed a 2nd double gang box for the vanity light switch and GFCI - I'm just not sure how to hook things up. If it'll help make things easier I can pull the 14/2 with ground wire coming from attic to 1st double gang box replace it with a 14/3 with ground wire. If more info is needed please ask.


texts: What wall anchors should I use to hang a frame on plastered breeze block?

texts:
I have a fairly hefty wooden calendar 2.5kg (5.5lbs). It has two hanging key slots in the back to hang it from. The keys are about 5mm wide on the narrow bit with a depth of 10mm.
I want to hang on my wall which is breeze block with about 15mm plasterboard over it.
I'm not useless with DIY and will be able to hang it myself, but I just don't know what hardware I need to put in the wall with the mix of materials etc...
Hope you will be able to help/advise.
Thanks


texts: How can I build a subpanel off a 3 prong 220V dryer outlet?

texts: I have an unused 220V, 3 prong (2-conductor) dryer outlet in my garage and would like to convert that into 2 110V supplies to some overhead lights and a ceiling outlet for a garage door opener. How do I split that 30A 220V supply into a couple of different 110V 15A circuits? I don't expect any more than a couple hundred watts of intermittent load per circuit.


texts: Can I draw power from nearby recessed lighting for pendant lights?

texts:
I want to add two pendant lights above my island where I have a bunch of recessed lighting. Can I draw power from them in order to power the chandeliers?

I'm considering an Insteon solution in order to control the two separately, but that's another matter.


texts:
I recently inherited a disk sander with a 6.5 amp motor. My grandfather had a standard 15 amp light switch hooked up to turn the sander on and off. My father had to take the thing apart to get it here. After rewiring the light switch back in place, the motor now trips the breaker instantly.

I thought maybe the contacts in the switch went bad, so I tried a new switch and got the same problem. I then ordered a safety switch for things like a table saw thinking maybe I needed a more heavy-duty switch. Still the same problem.

If I remove the switch altogether and just wire the motor right to the plug, it runs with no issues. It's only when I try to insert that switch that I have a problem.

Tearing my hair out on this one.


texts: faint LED glow when smart dimmer switch is off

texts:
I have a TP link HS220 dimmer switch that appears to be working correctly with the Phillips 8w LEDs I have. It goes on/off min and max dim with no issues. However, when I turn off the switch there is a slight glow coming from the LED light. This dimmer controls 2 LED lights and you can see the faint glow on one of the lights. :(
The way I installed this is not typical because the circuit actually goes to the light 1st then to the smart switch, so at the switch I have a 14/2. I have the black going to the hot screw and the white wire going to the load. Luckily this switch is installed on a 2 GANG box that also has a fan switch. The fan is using a 14/3 wire and one of the wires is no longer being used by the fan. This was the wire that controlled the fan light. So I took this wire and connected it to the neutrals at the fan box in the ceiling and then connected the other side of this wire to to the smart dimmer on the neutral pigtail (both wires go to the same breaker). Again, all appears to be working but when the switch is completely off, you can see a glow coming from the LED light.
I'm trying to determine if its my wiring that is causing this glow or if its the switch. I'm not an electrician and would appreciate any help in trying to figure this out.
TIA, P
Update, I did eventually get rid of the faint glow with a better bulb. I used the GE reveal 10w BR30 and this removed the glow. I also realize I have some code violations the way I wired things. Since I have no neutral I will be moving to a Caseta dimmer at some point and removing the TP link
.


texts: how to replace grommets(snaps) on a coat

texts: Zipper broke on an expensive coat. To replace they have to take off the snaps that go over the zipper and state they can't put back on.  This would leave holes in coat. Does anyone know of any way to replace these?


texts: Safety hook on double pole circuit breakers

texts:
My home was built two years ago, so I would expect everything to have been done up to code. The problem is that I don't know what the metal ring in this photo is. It loops over the double pole circuit breakers, but only if in the off position. When hooked over the circuit breakers, the metal ring appears to prevent them from being pushed into the on position. The problem is, if the circuit breakers are turned on, and the metal ring were to flip over (it's fairly free to rotate), then the circuit breakers are prevented from flipping into the off position. Isn't this a valid safety concern? Yet I am confused because the hooks on these circuit breakers appear to be made to do this as seen by the hooks I have pointed out via green arrows (green speckles follow the loop I am talking about).

I am seeking to learn:

What is this gizmo named?
Is my safety concern valid?


texts: How to precisely measure pipe inner diameter using digital Vernier caliper?

texts:
I have a pipe of unknown inner diameter. The pipe is big so I cannot measure it's outer diameter (the outside jaws won't reach the midpoint). I want to measure inner diameter.

That should be easy, in theory, using the inside jaws. But how to ensure I am measuring diameter and not some other distance within the circle? I can try to forcefully expand the jaws, but that's not precise. I need to be very precise - I need to fit 3D print into the pipe exactly.


texts: How can I vent a bathtub trap when the drain is routed under the tub?

texts:
I am … very slowly … thinking about replacing the probably circa 1950's galvanized steel drain pipes in my basement with PVC. In particular, I would like to replace the drain line under the bathtub since there is a drip there.

What I am not sure about is how to route things to correctly vent the new trap when I replace the current setup. I believe my easiest (and thus "best") option is to run a vent pipe straight up through the floor to an air admittance valve (AAV) placed (a lot) more than 6" above flood level for the tub. The most natural place to run this vent pipe would be the area just in front of the tub. The plumbing access for the tub is in this area. It is at the back of a closet and still mostly unfinished and thus accessible.

However, the fellow who self-built this house ran the existing tub drain in the exact opposite direction, directly under the back of the tub since this is the shortest path to the outlet to the septic.

From the look of things, venting was never a priority for him. I am guessing he assumed the tub trap was "close enough" to the vented septic outlet that a vent wasn't needed for the tub's trap. I am less trusting in the benevolence of Murphy.

My understanding is that the vent should be placed "behind" the trap and at least 2 drain pipe diameters distant. The vent access to get above the tub's flood level is in front of the tub, the opposite direction of where it seems the trap should go. I have attached the pics below to better illustrate what I'm talking about.

So … how to vent this? Do I try to route the p-trap in front of the tub, vent it, and then turn it back around to run under the tub to the septic outlet drain? Or can I point the p-trap back under the tube, but angle the vent so that it comes back in front of the tub where I can then take it up through the floor?

It's a mystery to me.

Just for the heck of it …

While the picture below doesn't directly apply to my question, I added it just for context. This pic shows the main outlet to the septic. Directly above it is the WC. The PVC angling up is the 2" vent stack through the roof. The combined bathtub and kitchen drains enter on the opposite side (behind in the pic) of the cast iron. The pipe with the black tape coming from the right is for the bathroom sink drain. The guy who put this together certainly did love him some right angles. <sigh />


texts: Modifying electrical boxes with field mounting and knockout provisions

texts:
I had to replace an entire coax run and noticed that someone who installed my Aunt's TV put a outlet behind the TV and used a low-voltage box! I know why they did this, mostly because there is only 1" clearance to the cement that is behind the drywall (perimeter wall) and they were lazy.

I already "corrected" the problem but I wanted to know if what I did is ok.

I found the smallest Carlon blue box that Home Depot carries and drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom and put a romex clamp in to hold the romex (for various reasons I couldn't use the side clamps that come with the box). I then secured the box to the cement using a screw through the back of the box and covered the screw with electrical tape (read something about doing that with screws inside a box that aren't electrical in nature).

Is there anything against modifying the box in the way I did?


texts: Prevent air leaking from couplings on an air compressor hose

texts:
I recently purchased an air compressor.  When I turn it on without a hose attached, it seems to work fine.  It gets up to 140 PSI and shuts off the motor.

As soon as I attach the hose, I can't get it above 60 PSI.   I can hear air leaking out both at the quick connect coupling to the air compressor and at the other end where I have an attachment screwed on the hose to fill car tires.

This is similar to the connection on the air compressor (except that the female end is permanently attached to the compressor such that I can't unscrew it):

I assume that Teflon tape on the threads would help the screw on connectors, but I'm at a loss as to how to make the quick connect couplers less leaky.