texts: Boiler issue diagnostic steps for a layperson (E37/E99)

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I'm having some boiler woes which seem to have stumped my landlord's plumber, and I'm wondering if there's any clues people more experienced with this setup may recognise, or any recommended diagnostic steps.

My boiler is a Keston C32 Combi, in a London flat. Towards the end of last year, it failed with an "E37" error message (water pressure error). For a long time before this, it had been occasionally showing this error (once every month or two) and I'd been told by the plumber to re-pressure the central heating system to get it working again (which had been working fine). On this occasion it didn't work even when the central heating pressure was above the marked minimum (~1.6 bar).

After an unpleasantly long time with at least 8 visits, the issue was finally resolved and the boiler started working perfectly again (and no-longer required re-pressuring of the central heating). During this time, the following was done:

Cleaned heat exchanger
Replaced pressuriser
Replaced motherboard (old one has visible damage to a component)
Replaced a value (sorry; not sure which)
Drained system (boiler and central heating)
Replaced a fractured part (sorry; not sure which. Quite a small pipework piece, possibly another valve)
Replaced some external pipework connecting central heating to boiler
Descaled air vent
Checked internal thermostat
Replaced electrolyte
Replaced low-pressure sensor
Replaced air vent

After this, it worked fine for several months, and held pressure in the central heating system at about 2.3 bar. So that's the history.

Recently (shortly after being tested for gas safety, which it passed), the boiler has shown issues again. Now it is alternating between working and displaying the "E37" error several times each minute, but the central heating pressure is still at 2.3 bar. This makes me think it must be air trapped in the system again, implying the new air vent has failed already. Additionally when there are continued demands for hot water (longer than about 1 minute), it fails with "E99" (communication error) and the water goes cold.

The plumber will be taking another look in a few days, but since this has been such a problematic fault, I'm wondering if there are any diagnostic steps I (as a lay-person) can perform to ensure this doesn't drag on like it did the last time.


texts: Function of a phase angle adjustment in a light dimmer

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I'm setting up a light dimmer an have found a adjustable part for setting the "phase angle of light bulbs". That is a literal translation from German.
You can see the adjuster in the picture.

My perspective of how the dimmer works is that it just zeroes some parts of the sine shaped voltage therefore reducing the power that reaches the bulb.

What is the purpose of that switch, both functionally (what it does) and conceptually (why and how it's done)?


texts: Which kind of plaster to use on concrete walls, prior to painting?

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I have a small holiday apartment in Europe that has pre-fabricated concrete walls. The surfaces are relatively smooth but I want to prepare them for painting by applying a skim coat of plaster. Which kind of plaster is the most appropriate for this purpose.

By the way, these are internal walls.


texts:
I am remodeling a one car garage in an old house.  As part of the remodeling, I am taking all the insulation out (in the walls that have insulation).   It is a combination of faced and unfaced fiberglass insulation and rigid insulation.  The fiberglass insulation is all jambed into place (not sure if it is as an artifact of time or the installation was not done right).  The wall shared with the house has no insulation!

I'm leaving intact the vapor barrier (tar paper) between the 2x4 studs and the exterior walls that have siding.  The studs are a variety of distances ranging from 13"-18" apart.  Most of the studs are a non-standard 18" apart center to center (but even those are not exact).  The house is in Central Texas.

I am thinking of buying 24" faced fiberglass insulation (pink one) and cutting it to be 1/2" bigger than the opening (whatever the opening is in the bay I am working on).  Installing the faced side towards the inside of the garage.  Is this the right thing to do around all the exterior walls?   So that I don't have too many wasted strips can I tape (what type of tape do I need?) two pieces together and keep the integrity of the vapor barrier and insulation?

Also, I see that Owens Corning has a FastBatt product that doesn't have flanges.  This is supposed to be held between the studs by friction against the studs and not by staples through the flanges.  Any opinions on this product?   I would like to use this in the shared wall with the house.  Given that my access to the wall is from the "outside" of the house, I won't have the ability to stable the flanges to the interior of the 2x4 studs.  Hence, I was thinking of installing this type of insulation with the faced part towards the house sheetrock and let friction keep it in place.  Then, install some type of vapor barrier on the side of the studs facing the garage.  Then, install the fireproof 5/8" drywall.

Thoughts on both the exterior walls and the shared wall are appreciated.


texts: Allowed wiring methods for running power between two structures above a walkway

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US, Southern CA, NEC 2017
I have a pergola 5ft away from an exterior wall that I'd like to run power to. Are there wiring methods that would allow power to be run through the air between two structures and above a walkway? If so, what would the code requirements/limitations be?
Things I have considered:

burying conduit - not an option due to an existing concrete floor
surface conduit - I'd like to avoid adding anything to the floor as there is an active walkway

Edit: It seems like conduit could be used above the walkway if it was supported and protected properly. The building-side has eaves that extend 2ft into the gap, so the actual air-space that would need to be crossed is closer to 3ft, not the entire 5ft span.


texts: How to cheaply fix crooked looking tile?

texts: Is there any way of making the tiles on the back wall look straight?


texts:
I am replacing a light fixture with a new  bulb socket fixture, Coming out of the junction box in the ceiling are four (4) wires. three (3) white and one red. Don't see any ground. How would I wire the new socket having only the normal three (3) wire configuration? (grnd, neutral and feed)?
Thank You.
Don deB.


texts: Small amounts of moss on asphalt shingles?

texts: What's the best way to remove moss from asphalt shingles?


texts: Where can I find furniture screws that lock into embedded metal parts?

texts:
I'm renovating an old box for the MRS. as a bit of a project. It's missing some parts which appear to be the type of screws you get in "flat pack" furniture whereby you screw so much into the wood, it then slots into another piece and you add a metal object that you rotate to lock it all in place.
I basically need to find some replacements and I have one taken out. I just don't know what its called and what length I need.
Anybody in the know able to assist me?


texts: My furnace runs for a few min then flickers and shuts off and then the system recycles and it fires back up and the process repeats over and over and over etc....


texts: Installing WeMo Wi-Fi Dimmer Switch - Lights not turning on

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I have attempted to install my WeMo switch; however, it does not seem to want to work. Before I contact Belkin or my superintendent, I wanted to make sure that it is WeMo that is broken, and not my brain.

My living room light switch, once removed has the following wires:

All wire labels are what I THINK they are, not necessarily what they really are.
But the way I labelled them, is the only way it makes sense? Cause at one point I accidentally started controlling my fridge with the light switch.

So based on that diagram, I wired my WeMo Dimmer switch accordingly. Neutral to white,  Line to brown, Load to beige, and ground... well none of the switches in my apartment have ground. So I let that be.

The switch gets powered correctly (white light,  and then blue). I even set it up on the wifi. The fridge stays powered on (yay); however, the switch does not turn the lights on and off. Does not matter how many times I press the button. Won't dim. won't turn on.

The lighbulbs I am using are dimmable LED - https://www.lowes.ca/products/view.aspx?sku=12467830.

Before I go over to belkin, I wanted to see if perhaps I did something obviously wrong.

EDIT:
At this point I've tested the following:

Controlling the switch from the app would cause the relay click sound, the switch would appear as if it turned on, but the lights remain off.
I've tried this with a single LED bulb, a single incandescent bulb, and a mix of both.
With the original switch connected, in the ON position and with the breaker ON, (aka the lights were shining) I've used non-contact voltage tester and probed an empty bulb socket. This results in continuous high-pitch beeping sound (48V-1000V AC)

I have then taken my WeMo switch, connected it to the exact same wires + a neutral, and with the breaker ON and WeMo "ON" (the lights weren't shining, this is my issue here) I probed the bulb socket, and there was no light or noise from the tester. This to me indicated that my wiring should be correct (as it was consistent with the original switch + 1 neutral wire, the relay clicks, but no power is sent to the light fixture.


texts: Can someone help me to verify if my balcony can handle the load of a hot tub

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I would like to place a hot tub on my balcony, and need help to double check if my floor joist can handle the load.  I have have 2 x 12 floor joist @ 16" o.c. with 3/4" plywood decking and 1/2" drywall on the underside.  My floor joist sits on the full 8" of the block wall below and sits on top of the full 8" of the 16" concrete lintel on the outside which leaves a clear span of 6' - 4" for the 2 x 12 floor joist @ 16" o.c.

According to the manufacture specification, the hot tub when filled with water weights 125 lbs per s/f dead load, this does not include the live load.   The hot tub Model is called Softub Legend 220....This 125 lbs per s/f does not include up to people 4 people.  I will have a total of 2 adults and 1 child.  Can someone help me verify if the floor joist can handle the load of the hot tub.


texts: Before blowing in wall insulation, is it better to remove old rock wool insulation?

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We're going to blow in fiberglass insulation to improve the exterior walls we haven't had an opportunity to upgrade—after ten years of remodeling projects we've modernized about 60% of the walls.

The walls we've stripped to studs have batts of rock wool, a black fibrous material made of "fiberized" rock and steel slag.  The house is typical construction for the 1950s one-story ranch houses in the Pacific Northwest (North America) but also includes a "luxury upgrade" (for the time) of this rock wool.  The markings on the facing says either R-5 or R-7 (one or the other thickness was used in various portions of the house).  They are nominally 1.5 to 2 inches thick.  (After removing the drywall, it is a no-brainer to remove that sickly-looking insulation and install modern R-13 fiberglass.)

We had one contractor bid $1400 for the job, but we would have to do prep (remove furniture and fixtures) and finish the job (they'll put plastic plugs in the drywall holes but we need to clean their mess, then mud, texture, and paint.  I asked if they would remove the rock wool:  they said "No.  We blow beside it which provides extra insulation."

What are the arguments for and against removal of old insulation?


texts:
I am in the midst of waterproofing the interior side of my basement.  I have many leftover form ties that I've cut off flush with the concrete.  The ties originally looked like this:

My waterproofing sealant (Thoroseal) manual recommends I drill into the ties about 1", and fill the hole with some hydraulic cement before continuing with covering the wall with a sealant.  In the image below, the dotted circle is kind of where I'd like my hole.  You can see the ground down stubs (cut with an angle grinder) from the ties in the middle.

However, I'm not sure how to accomplish this.  I tried purchasing a simple carbide-tipped concrete twist bit, but it jumps around when I try to center it on the ties and I can't get it to drill both the concrete and the metal.
Any tips on how I can successfully drill this hole?


texts: Voltage difference between sink, oven and dishwasher

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In my apartment we just got a new kitchen, and five minutes after the electrician left, i got a shock by touching the sink and the dishwasher et the same time. I got my multimeter and measuered the voltage difference between the two. I Measured it at 150 V AC.

The dishwasher and the oven is standing right next to each other, so i also measuered the voltage between the sink and the oven: 7 V AC. So pretty much no voltage across. Now, my lacking logic tells me that there must be a large voltage difference between my oven and my dishwasher. Atleast 143 V is my guess.

The thing is that there is not a large voltage differnce between the oven and dishwasher, but only a difference of 3 V.

How can this be? Should there not be a large difference if the oven and the sink have a close potential, and the sink and dishwasher have a a large voltage difference?

Needless to say, i have no ground in my appartment.

Can anyone enlighten me?


texts: My mother's roof has been leaking for over 3 years now. Ceilings falling in in some rooms and leaks in most. She paid someone to put the roof on and he brought the all metal, put on 10 feet of roof and never came back. So now the question is... if I put the roof on myself will it simply rot everything  underneath considering there's so much moisture? My thought was to put on the roof and knock out the ceiling in the worst rooms and put in space heaters, fans, dehumidifiers, etc and then put new ceilings in once it's dried out. Would this be an option that would work (A.K.A save the the house/make it livable till it can be fixed properly by a professional)?


texts: Fire escape ladder cannot be used if the floor (room) below is on fire?

texts: I heard fire escape ladders or rope ladders cannot be used to get out of your building window if the room directly below is on fire. I would imagine because the ladder then would catch fire? If that's true, what are other methods to safely get out of your window, if the window escape was your only option?


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For the subpanel I am installing in my metal garage (concrete floor), I have sunk an eight foot copper-coated rod next to the outside wall and adjacent to the panel which is on the inside of the building. For secondary grounding, can I bond the ground wire to the building's frame, rather than run the wire underground to another grounding rod?
The garage was installed in recent years by the previous owner. He installed plumbing pipes, but did not connect them. I don't have his plans and he is now deceased. I wonder if his unmet intentions included installing electrical.
Is there any way I can determine whether or not the building is grounded in the absence of finding a connection to ground?

EDIT:  I agree that there is some ambiguity in my question. My first objective is to avoid sinking another grounding rod. I realize that I cannot use the metal frame of the building as a ground unless I can establish that it, in fact, is grounded. Since I've received no indication that there is a method by which I can do that (unless I find an existing connection to a grounding rod - unlikely, since the proper means of grounding when the concrete pour took place is now invisible), my second objective is to ensure that I can use the metal frame as a path to ground by bonding to it another grounding rod at any convenient location and bonding the building to the existing rod, as well. (That is, can I avoid running wire between the grounding rods and use the building instead?)
Incidentally, the partial plumbing install has no metal parts; no help from it.


texts: Main panel mounted directly to cinderblock wall

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My main electrical panel is mounted directly to my basement wall, and I noticed last night while I had it open that it is starting to show signs of rust/oxidation around the mounting screws.  What is the correct and safe way to get a piece of plywood in between the panel and the block wall?  Should I be able to simply pull the panel out away from the wall far enough to slide a piece of plywood in or is there disassembly involved?

Thanks


texts: Why is my cooker tripping circuit breakers?

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I have a four burner stove with an oven. I would like to know why it keeps tripping the power when in use.
It has a six position cam switch, and two of the four plates trip the circuit breaker at all positions 1 to 6. The remaining two start tripping at position 4 up to 6.

I have not tried resetting the breakers everytime the they trip.


texts: How can I stop a board from "leaking" sap?

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I recently assembled a shed and one or two of the board on the wall are "leaking" sap:

I thought it might stop after I removed the first batch but a few days later, it came back. Is there anything I can do to stop this (while still preserving the natural wood look)?

I've already put three coats of polyurethane over the whole interior.


texts: How best to insulate/heat solid brick house (as at 2016)

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I see this question asked regularly through the years, so looking for some up to date ideas.

I've just purchased an 1890's 2 storey brick house in the UK. The rooms are quite large (3.6m height and most rooms 3-5m across) The brick walls are solid and have no cavity. I can't insulate from the outside (planning approval + aesthetic). Interior walls are plastered.some have lining paper/paint/some weird rough finish. I am happy to hack back to the brick internally. I have recently moved in and am beginning renovation work so open to any change. The Nest is reporting heavy heating usage already and it's only October....

I've looked at a combination of thin and effective insulating material that can be applied to the interior of the external walls. Some cursory research shows many new companies starting up in this space but I don't know what is currently effective. I.e. there is 10mm "spacetherm" board advertised but other companies suggest a minimum of 100mm for effective insulation.

Also open to alternative suggestions.


texts: Powering 12V LED strip thru European hinges

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This is something im planning to do and in fact already half way into building it.

The idea is I'm installing sections of LED strip behind the cabinet door and its on the door itself. This door is framed using plywood and having large rectangular cut-out in the middle which holds transparent glass. When the door is closed display items in the cabinet will be lit brightly by the LEDs but non of the LED will be visible.

Now to provide power to the LED mounted on the hinged door, im going to use the two hinges so that no extra wires needed.

Current draw by LED thru the hinges will be less than 500 mA thus i don't for see  much power loss on the hinges.

Is this method have ever been tried by someone? Is there anything im risking on this attempt?


texts:
I need 2" ducts in this room I'm building.  Flexible ducts and conduit are about the same price.  I have high heat requirements.  Can I use conduit for ductwork?  What are the pros / cons?

Thanks


texts: ceiling fan/light fixture wiring with 3 (3-wire) cables

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I am replacing an old (1980s?) ceiling fan with light.  The light and fan were turned on with one wall switch and pull cables on the fan.  I pulled out the fan fixture and found wiring in the box that I am trying to understand.  My primary purpose is to leave the circuit wiring safe while I find a new fixture (and then ultimately to wire the new fan correctly).

In the ceiling box I found three cables, each with three wires (1 black, 1 white, and 1 copper).  The 3 copper wires from these cables are all pig-tailed together, and so are the 3 white wires, the black wires were attached to the fan/light wires. I think what is going on is that one cable is the feed to the box and the other goes off to the rest of the circuit.

I pigtailed the 2 black wires from these cables together and everything in the rest of the circuit seems to work. I tested the wires and the white pig-tail is not hot and neither is the copper ground pig-tail. My black pig-tail is hot, but the final black wire for the third cable is not hot.

I think the final cable may be for the switch loop. However, based on everything I've read, it sounds like the white wire from the switch loop cable should be marked black because it would be switched hot and should not be pig-tailed to the other white wires (but it was and everything worked for many years?).  What am I missing??


texts: Is it normal to not have an OL between ground and neutral?

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I was renovating the garage and noticed that I have a continuity between the ground and the neutral in the conduit box when I tested with a multimeter. I then checked the service panel and noticed that the neutral bus is hooked to common ground directly. (and it passed the inspection that way long time ago.)

Is this normal? Isn't the neutral rail should be connected to the ground separately and ground cables should be connected to the 3rd rail (or busbar)?

Sorry in advance if this is a stupid question, I'm just trying to be safe and it just didn't make sense that they actually loop. I always thought ground is a "less prefered" route for the electricity to travel hence it being isolated and to be forced to bypass neutral wire seems to be making more sense.


texts: What safety equipment is best for live multimeter testing on 240v?

texts: If you need to test a circuit breaker with a multimeter and you're working in a live breaker box with 240v, what is the best safety equipment to use (eg: gloves, shoes, shield, etc)?  It doesn't seem right working with those small multimeter lead handles with bare hands, but most contractors seem to have no trouble doing this.  I am being overly paranoid, or is there a better way?


texts: Powerline adapter to connect 2 apartments in one building?

texts: Let’s say a have a friend of mine living in the same building just say 20 meters away from me. And he has home internet but wlan is to week to reach my apartment is there a easy way to connect to his internet? Using powerrline adapter I heard it has to be on the same circuit but I don’t think the 2 apartment have same circuit ? So what is a good way to connect to his internet? Thanks


texts: Replacing outlet switch combination with GFCI outlet switch combination

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I'm trying to replace an old non-GFCI outlet switch combination in the garage ceiling, that looks like this:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LoWQrqFkNhoNZkoK6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NsCgwuyd2xrby1Vp8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/US35XNW8qX8AVyNT8

With a Leviton GFCI outlet switch combination (https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/GFSW1_Application_Note.pdf)

I've tried many combinations of the suggested setup, both with and without GFCI on the light switch, but cannot get the switch to control the light - it's an outside motion light. In addition, for some reason, the (new installed) garage light does not work anymore. What's the easiest way to test the setup in terms of wiring. Also, how can I check that the switch really controls the outside light, could it actually be a switch for the downstream light switch?


texts:
I have been adding Z-Wave Light Switch light switches to my house bit by bit.  For the most part, they haven't given me too much trouble.  Now I have come across a light that can be controlled in 3 different places.  Also one switch is at the bottom of the stairs on a 2-gang switch where one switch is on one breaker (downstairs lights) and the switch I am working on is on another breaker (upstairs lights).  All 3 locations have a neutral wire.

My first question, is does it matter that the gang box is on 2 circuits--particularly, is the neutral the same for both breakers?  Second, the  instructions say it matters where the switch goes, so how do I determine where each switch is in the sequence?


texts:
I removed a Moldy wooden bath tub panel and right after it there is another panel which feels like hard foam.
Sorry I do not have pictures.
Do you have any idea what material this is and what purpose this panel serves?  It is an old building I don’t think modern baths have these second panels.
What material is it and would it have to be discarded if it affected by mold?
Thanks.


texts: What does this square icon mean on my Honeywell thermostat?

texts: I have upstairs Honeywell Thermostat showing me a square icon since yesterday.  The upstairs AC is not working.  It is blowing air since the fan is on but the air is not cold.  I opened up the thermostat and replaced 3 AA batteries in it, but that did not make any difference.  I have tried to find the manual on the Honeywell's website, but they don't have anything there.  The picture of the icon is below.


texts: What regulator do I need for 500 gallon tank?

texts:
Just moved into a new house, the previous owner had a 500-gallon propane tank buried in the backyard. A gas contractor stopped by and said the tank is in full working order, however he doesn't do installation. The tank at this point is not connected to anything. It was originally connected to a pool water heater, but the original owner said he replaced the heater to electric. The pictures attached I found online, but it is the same make and model, the only difference is the serial number.
I will be running an underground polyethylene line for about 80-100 feet. What size regulator do I need?
I'm planning on using a first stage regulator (like this one), then run the line and use a second stage regulator and finally connect my appliance which already has a built in regulator.


texts: Quickest way to circulate outside air thru house?

texts:
All but one major room is part of a single path through home, from a window on one end to a window on the other. In the evening I want to bring in cooler outside air as efficiently as possible. If there is no breeze outside, is it faster to

close all windows except the two endpoints, setting up the box fan (which fits well in the window) to push air in or pull it out at one end.
open all the windows, and put the fan somewhere, without knowing exactly what the path of airflow from it will be.

The first method takes no advantage of whatever minimal passive airflow would occur with all windows open wide.
The second method doesn't make as good use of the fan, because it may end up cycling the air immediately around it over and over instead of reaching all areas of the house.
If passive circulation were truly nonexistent, then maximizing the fan's efficiency would be the way to go. Does it seem plausible that passive circulation could indeed be low enough for that to be the case?


texts: Leveling options for an uneven concrete floor in basement?

texts:
I live in an old house (somewhere between 1870 and 1920) with a retrofit basement.

I also have a high water table, so during the spring rains, we get a trickle of water in the basement ( we've come to accept it as part of the personality of the house and just make sure nothing is on the floor.)

The floor is poured concrete, but whoever did it left high spots and low spots, and of course one of the high spots is between the biggest low spot and the drain.

So my question is:

Short of taking out the entire floor, is there something I can do to level out the low spots?  Or can I cut/grind/chip a groove deep enough in the high spots to act as a channel?


texts:
Just recently moved into a new house.

The furnace is a older model (mid 90's) but seems to work OK.

One problem I notice is that when the system kicks on usually after about 1-2 minutes there is loud bang that comes from the bottom. This bang also happens after the system kicks off as well.

See the video below to show what I mean.

Is there anything I can do to mitigate this? I've tried bracing certain parts of the metal, but it doesn't really seem to help.

Any thoughts? Thanks!

https://youtu.be/T0YSbpQalbI
(bang @ 25 seconds)


texts: I have a 3 knob tub, hot, cold, and in the middle the diverter. When I turn the diverter knob the cold water comes out of the shower head but the hot water continues to come out the tub as if I never turned the diverter. What is the problem and how can I fix it?


texts: I broke a tile and am trying to work out how I can fix it. Any ideas?


texts: Need to branch off a receptacle series, but not at the end of the run. Best practices?

texts:
My scenario is that I have a receptacle that currently feeds to bedroom lights, which is the end of the series on the circuit. I would have to fish the wire a good distance from the light switch and would not be ideal.
Option 1: Would it be appropriate to pigtail like below? Pretend that last outlet is a light switch.

Option 2: The incoming power to the receptacle in the diagram goes through unfinished basement area. I could do a junction box and splice there.
Option 3: I can't think of what they are called, but I could use a new receptacle that has the ability to feed multiple receptacles with a bar with push in, or something like that. I am not talking about the scary stab ins. I would replace the first receptacle with this new one.


texts: When priming a green (bathroom) sheet rock for the first time, is it important to block all traces of green visible through the primer? If I can still see green, should I apply a second coat of primer?


texts: Patio Roofing Question - Transparent corrugated pvc covering

texts:
I have recently built a free-standing patio covering that backs up to the back of our house.  It is approx 24 x 14.  I'm having trouble deciding what to put as a covering.

First I thought the Ondura roofing (http://ondura.com/?gclid=CNSyxcGctc0CFUZrfgodkKMO7w) but bad reviews have scared me away.

Then I thought some translucent corrugated roofing.  But not sure whether it will provide sufficient shade.  The point of this patio is to get us out of the summer heat!  Does anyone have experience with this type of roofing?  I know it comes in different "shades" but will it provide good shade, or am I better off going with a solid metal/pvc roofing?

Also, will the corrugated pvc type covering last?  I don't want to be replacing the roof after a few years.


texts: Is there any way to drill through minerall wool in order to install a pvc pipe?

texts:
This is related to this question What type of pipe should I used to build a gravity drain from my furnace to the bathroom plumbing?
I am building the red pipe in the below picture, This is the condese drain for the furnace
The original tubing used by the pump is 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD.
The specs for the condense pump are in the above mentined post
In order to give the PVC tubing a slope I decided to run it through a 1/2 PEX pipe which I pushed in the ceiling as indicted below.
The problem is that this setup is not working for two reasons:
-due to the fact that there is mineral wool in the ceiling and this is between two joists I can't push the pex pipe as I want and I can's seem to be able to give it the right slope
-the other thing that is now working is the fact that the pup is at floor level. It has to push the water 8' up to the ceiling where the pvc tubing enters the pex pipe. when the push there is water left on the vertical segment from the pump to the ceiling and that seems to bounce back. That creates negative pressure in the tubing and some of the water is being sucked back.
The end result is that very little water comes out at the other end and it takes an eternity for the pump to empty the basin ...
Is there any way to drill thrugh that damn wool to make room to run the pipe properly. The middle of the red segment is out of reach so there is no way to pull the wool out.
I am considering using using one for these to pull the wool out


texts: Can I shut off pump, stop chemical maintenance on pool that's going to be drained and refaced in 6 months?

texts:
I live in temperate climate (Northern California) and have an 40 year old outdoor gunite pool. Currently we have a pool pump running 24/7 and use a service to maintain chemical balance weekly.

I plan to have the pool acid-washed and refaced in about 6 months and won't use it before that. Do I need to keep the pool pump running or continue with ph maintenance until repairs? If so, why?

Thanks!


texts: How can I seal air leaks and otherwise winterize, as a renter?

texts:
As winter arrives I am finding cold air leaks all over my apartment. Various parts of my sliding windows, light switches, power outlets, etc. Unfortunately, I rent, so caulk and expanding foam aren't options for me. I need solutions that aren't quite permanent, and won't do too much damage when they are removed.

I know about weather stripping for the non-sliding parts of my doors and windows. I don't have a good idea for the parts that slide against each other (like the tracks for the window).

I can put plastic child-proof plugs in the electrical outlets to stop air from coming straight out of those holes, but that doesn't help with leaks between the outlet and the faceplate, or between the faceplate and the wall. Is there some sort of tape I can put there, preferably clear or available in colors that might match my faceplates?

PS: Of course I am also going to use curtains.


texts:
Just got a new dryer and the door to my laundry room wouldn’t close due to the dryer so stupid me tried to push my dryer back closer to the wall and in the process I broke the hose and and bent the area on the back of the dryer the hose connects to.

Is this an easy fix and something I can do myself? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks so much!


texts: Radiator Fins in Hot Water Baseboard - Basic Question

texts:
Pretty basic question.  I moved into an apartment that I love but have discovered the hot water baseboard is not providing enough heat.  FYI, I am on the second floor of a two story building.  There are two apartments (including mine) above a restaurant.  From what I can glean, the two apartments share a Navien 'instant hot water' type of system.  Last year when I moved in, mid-winter I said the heat was bad and they sent a plumber to check the Navien.  When that was deemed ok, they closed the case and I just didn't have the energy to fight them.  But here we are again....winter officially starts on Monday!  Anyway the boys next door share the same problem so I have volunteered to lead the efforts.  So before I contact management again I want to feel like I have a handle on the issue - which is why I am here. The windows are shot; no question.  I can feel the cold when I stand next to them.  But the landlord ain't going to drop $$$ this year into those I'm quite sure, so I am left with boosting the heat from the baseboards.
So when I investigated further I noticed that slightly less than 50% of the pipe in the baseboard was surrounded by 'fins' - just bare pipe.  (The apartment has been here for decades and while the Navien system is new,I have know idea when the baseboards(fins) were installed. Looks like one can buy 2' sections of fins from Home Depot (see link below?) for ~ $55 each.
Here is the question: My living room has 28' of baseboard but 14' of fin coverage.  If I suggest that we buy (7) 2' sections (~$400 with self-install) - is that the best solution?  It would seem obvious that it should help but how much? I am definitely no engineer. Both me and the boys next door are pretty hardy but on cold nights it sucks to come home to an apartment that maxes out at ~ 65 degrees; both our thermostats are set to ~ 80 degrees but it has no effect. The windows are the real answer but the fins are probably more $$$ doable but is it the right move?
Sorry for the long write up.  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.  Best, Peter
Fab-Tek Fins for 3/4" pipe


texts: If you use a filler and cover it immediately, will there be any problems?

texts:
If I use cement, concrete, plaster, paste etc and fill a deep wall hole, then cover/seal the visible side with aluminium or some other cover, will it cause any problems for the fill?
I mean once put down will this fillers need air to help them cure and won't the fact that they have some air on the inside of the wall be sufficient?
So in this or any relevant context, can or can I not do the fill then cover it after a few hours with something like aluminum foil?
Thanks.
Thanks.


texts: How can I clean windows and gutters from a ladder in a narrow side yard?

texts:
I want to clean out my 2nd story gutters and wash windows, but my side yard is about 5 feet between house and fence.  Considering the overhang, there's probably 4 feet of horizontal I'd prefer not to get on the roof, since it's a steep pitch.
Gutters are at 19'.  Fence to brick is 4'4".
What options do I have to securely access the gutters?  I currently do not have a ladder that tall, so I am starting from scratch when it comes to the configuration.


texts:
I have been trying to troubleshoot a smelly dishwasher for a few months now. Here is what I observed:

Dishwasher does not smell normally
Dishwasher smells almost immediately after a wash cycle starts
Sink drain smells almost immediately after a wash cycle starts
Dishwasher smells very bad after a wash cycle
Plates smell bad after a wash cycle
Dishwasher filter seems to need to be cleaned very often, about every week
Dishwasher is about 3-4 years old. Do not remember this issue coming up until about six months ago. The dishwasher also broke and needed its pump replaced maybe a year or two ago.

Here is what I have fixed:

Replaced drain hose (it was very dirty)
Confirmed drain hose has proper high loop
Used a wet vac to completely clean all accessible parts of inside and outside of dishwasher, including parts underneath it.
Clean the dishwasher filter almost every time we wash
Tried several cleaning solutions (baking soda, Affresh & other products)
Really been careful to get all food chunks of any size off dishes
Had an appliance repairman come check out the machine. He replaced the drain hose and did a very intense cleaning of the machine. He couldn't find any issues.

EDITS:

Added picture under sink


texts: Are there any reasons not to upgrade to 200A service?

texts:
A sub-panel is already installed on a second floor. It draws power from a 100 amp main panel downstairs. The sub-panel is feed by a 60 amp double pole breaker. The panel was installed for or by AC techs who were installing mini-split AC units. The sub-panel contains four breakers for the AC units and then one 15 amp and two 20 amp circuits were added to service general receptacles and lights on the second floor.

The house was recently bought and the new homeowners found very bad wiring such as no electrical boxes behind ceiling lights and fans, wiring duct taped together, a mixing of 12 and 14 AWG wire on the same circuit, and incidences like no neutral wire where outlets were installed.

In light of the many problems which we are knowledgeable enough to catch and understand, we would like to ask a question about the sub-panel to make sure the above description sounds on the surface like an okay set up. If so I take it that more circuits can be run from the sub-panel to add extra light and outlet receptacles in the living areas as needed. I take it that this is a proper use of the sub-panel to add circuits in addition to the AC it was put in to accommodate as long as there are slots on the panel. The homeowners are intending on upgrading the main panel to a 200 amp service soon. I take 200 amp to be the standard upgrade for homes. Are there any reasons that such an upgrade would be prohibited for local code reasons and concerns? They definitely need an upgrade since they are trying to properly wire the house to all new code requirements after the hurricane forced a gut of the whole first floor.


texts: Why does my kitchen sink not drain properly after I don't use it for a while?

texts: I can't figure out why my kitchen sink drain keeps clogging.  I've bought several bottles of Draino type stuff and they work for a day or two.  But if I don't use my sink much in 2 or 3 days and then finally get around to hand washing my dishes (since I don't have a dishwasher) I find my sink won't drain again.  Why is it clogging when it's not being used?


texts: Is this wall board made of dangerous material?

texts:
There's a room in my house that has walls made of a material that I've always thought was weird. It's not like normal drywall. Recently, I pulled up the base boards I got a better look at the bottom of the walls that had previously been covered by the base boards. I started wondering...How do I know if the walls are made of a safe material? I started thinking about it and am wondering if they could be made with asbestos.

The material is like an insulted board, made of some brown or black fibrous material, with a thin, wooden outer shell (like paper on drywall). It could be totally safe, I just don't know.

Is this a common type of wall board in older houses? Is it safe? I can't seem to find any resources to help me identify the kind/brand of wall board and whether or not it is safe. Can you provide some resources that will help me determine if this wall board is safe?


texts: Why would a dimmer start buzzing when some lights are broken?

texts:
I have a dimmer that controls a 3-light fixture (filled with 35W halogen incandescents).

When the second light went dark (I procrastinated with replacing the first) the last one starts flickering, especially when dimmed a bit, and the dimmer starts buzzing (louder than normal). Is this normal?

Then a few weeks later the final light broke; coincidence or effect of the prolonged flickering?


texts: How/where can I find out what the frost-line is for my area?

texts:
Aptos, CA, United States

What service or documentation resource can I use to determine what the frost-line is for my area?  I'd be inclined to ask the county building/planning office but I suspect that they'll want to charge for answering a seemingly simple (and hopefully well documented) question.


texts: Bathroom toilet has air bubbles when I shower

texts:
Whenever I take a shower my toilet has air bubbles.

Do I need to snake my plumbing?

I live in a mobile home so do I remove the toilet to snake the main line or what do I need to do and how?


texts: Mysterious cord running from wall. Safe?

texts:
My wife and I are preparing to sell our home and are discovering some weird things. Our home was built in 1958, so it is older. We found this in a corner that had some furniture in front of it.

We are wondering

What kind of wiring is this?
Is it safe to handle or remove?


texts: Adhesive tape: in the direction of expected stress or perpendicular to it?

texts:
I have used some pieces of double-sided adhesive tape to fix a doormat on laminate flooring. The expected stress for this mat is from and towards the door; most people scrub their shoes perpendicular to the door.

Of course, more tape will always reduce the chance the mat will eventually be removed from its place by normal usage, but I was wondering: given a limited supply of tape, what is the best way to position them? I guess at least one piece of tape in each corner, but does their orientation (along or perpendicular to the expected stress, or even at a 45 degree angle) matter at all?


texts: Bad to seal holes around gas pipes with cement?

texts:
I got a new gas person this year to check my boiler. He noticed that where my gas pipe comes into the house, through a hole in the bricks, the hole is sealed with cement or mortar. He said that this was bad because the expansion/contraction of the pipe against the cement would lead to wear and perhaps a gas leak. Is he correct or is he just hoping for some extra work?
EDIT: he may have said corrosion or even vibrations, I can't really remember. But how would cement cause corrosion?


texts: Connecting an outdoor light to an unfamiliar socket - commercial property

texts:
I am new to this particular SE site, please feel to edit or comment for clarification.

New commercial property, outdoor electrical connection to shine lights on trees
Connection appears to be by a red cable to a box with a circular outlet
Neighboring property has the same thing
I'd like to run outdoor lighting either as a string or as a similar spotlight from the similar outlet next to my tree to illuminate my wine bar a bit
Location is on a sidewalk square in front of a new commercial retail building in Portland, United States

Is there a way to connect standard outdoor lighting to what appears to be the definition of a socket?

Picture 1: my connection, with a bit of plastic over it, as installed by the building.

Picture 2: this is how a neighboring business did it; I'd like to have either outdoor string lights stem from this or do the same with a light.  I'm not sure if there's a special connection I will need.  Same box as mine, but it maketh light.

PS - I am entirely amateur.


texts:
In the whole building I have hot water no problem, but the two sinks closest to the boiler have stone cold water coming from the hot water taps. (No plumbing has been done in the building for the pass 6 months.) This just happened about a week ago. Looking for ideas.

Ok so the system is run off a boiler system, temp is set to 140, then there is a mixing valve that is set at 120. Only the 2 sinks closest to the boiler is cold. The rest is nice and hot.


texts: Why is it illegal to change temperature of water heater?

texts: The title is a little misleading. I know why it’s illegal, but I think what’s really important is the end result (users, especially children, don’t get burned). I’m curious why it isn’t equally as legal to turn the temperature up as high as supported by your water heater, but use a thermostatic mixing valve to regulate the temperature to 120°F. With this approach you would effectively increase your hot water capacity without having to install a larger tank.


texts: How much of a gap do I leave between the wall and the OSB I am putting down on the concrete for a subfloor?

texts:
I am putting down a product similar to the plastic used on the DriCore 2x2 sheets on the concrete for a vapor barrier.  I have 3/4" tongue and groove Oriented strand board (OSB) I will be laying down on top of it.  We will be carpeting over this. I have drywall up that is 1/2 off the floor. How much of a gap should I leave, and should I anchor the wood into the concrete?

I should add that this is in my basement.  We moved in, the walls are up but they had carpet glued to the floor.  I pulled out the carpet and want to put in a subfloor (above) but am not sure if I should leave a gap or push the wood up tight against the wall.


texts: How to store small computer equipment in a home context?

texts:
I have a small network at home and with time more and more small equipment was added (such as the Internet box, a RPi, powered hub, external USB drive, etc.).

Right now all of this is pretty much stacked with cables flourishing behind. I was wondering if there are simple, low cost solutions to store such equipment (in the context of an apartment, ideally in a slot between the furniture).

Right now my idea is to take a grid similar to that

and strap equipment to it. The intended usage for the grid is not that one, strapping can be tricky, etc. I hope there is a solution which is more adapted to computer equipment (but not the racks you find in data centers or computer closets, this is really in the context on an apartment and small equipment)


texts: Advice needed on staining 10 year old fence

texts:
I don't know what was done to it when it was brand new.  I have stained it twice, once about 7 years ago and once about 5 years ago.  Going by the partial cans in the garage and my own memory, the first time was done with a Behr transparent oil-based stain and the second time with Behr semi-solid urethane-enhanced acrylic stain. I don't recall doing much of any prep before either project.

The stain is actually in pretty decent shape considering I apparently put water based over oil based with no prep.  The horizontal top of the fence is pretty much devoid of stain at this point and there is a fair amount of green mildew, but for the most part the vertical boards are looking decent.

This time around I've done more research, but in some ways it is only serving to confuse me.  So far the plan is to pressure wash, hand scrub away any remaining mildew with a bleach solution, let dry, then stain. But:

how long does it take for the wood to be dry enough?  This is Oregon, if we prep it one weekend it is likely to get rained on before the next weekend.  But I'm guessing that doing it the next day may be too soon.
do I need to sand off the old finish in order for the new one to take properly?  I would really rather not do this, partly due to the effort and partly because the boards are rough-sawn and I don't want to lose the texture.  But I don't want it all to peel off right away either.
I've read conflicting reports of whether a colored stain needs to have a clear coat applied over it or not.
It seems that every brand of stain out there has it's fans and detractors.  How in the world do you pick the best of what seems like a sorry lot?

In case it matters, I plan on using Woodmates stain applicators (pads) this time around, instead of brushing as we did last time.  Also, I don't know what kind of wood it is - the posts look pressure treated but as far as I know the rest is not.

Any advice would be most welcome!


texts:
How can I insulate skylights?

My house has been extended and the extension has double glazed windows for roof, think of it as a very sturdy conservatory. I understand why the previous owners did it - to get more space and light, but in terms of heating they have created a disaster.

I could see the issue immediately, but didn't think it would be that bad as the glazing looked to be very modern.

Reinstating the previous garden door inside would not be ideal, so I am now looking for ways to sacrifice light for better insulation.

There is plenty of headroom, so if it was possible to bond insulation to the inside and box it in, that might be a solution.

Is something like that feasible or are there better methods? Thank you.

EDIT - added picture for clarification:

The problematic part is the window panes above the door and normal windows, they form a kind of elongated pyramid shape with a rectangular base area.


texts: my outside lights with sensors work for a while then stop when you reset them nothing happens, but if you reset them the next day they work for a while again then stop. sorry two stop and one stays working they are all on the same power circuit as the house. help please I live in the U.K.


texts:
had a water link leak under a concrete slab walkway to the front porch.  Had to have the walkway taken up and the pipe coming from the house may be a big problem.   Plumber repaired and sleeved however I don't know what to do about a walkway being built in the same area and really concerned about the pipe from the house and what future issues I may have.   So my questions are - any idea what to do for a walkway - and how bad does this situation look for having future problems.   Please note the concrete slab walkway was 10" thick at the back which was over the pipe area.  Photo attached  - the house constructed late around late 96-97.   Any advice/input will be greatly appreciated and if I am in the wrong area to ask this question - please let me know.  Thanks in advance

!water line i[]1mage description here]2


texts: FHW oil basedboard radiators are hot even when t-stats turned off. Sediment in pipes?

texts:
I moved into a condo a few months ago.  It has a forced hot water oil heating system.  First floor is one heating zone; second floor is another; boiler is in basement.  T-stats are manual/mercury dial.

Soon after moving in we noticed second floor radiators were hot even though t-stat was turned all the way down.  My friend, who works in HVAC, suggested sediment might be in pipes, preventing valves from closing.  He suggested banging on the pipes to correct this.  This appears to have worked for a couple months.  But the problem has returned and it appears to now also affect 1st floor radiators.

Suggestions for what to try now?  Thanks!!!


texts:
I have a piece of wooden board in the shape of the following image. The unit is in centimeters. And the board is 2.5cm thick.

On both sides, I've cut a 45-degree piece off using a Japanese pull-saw. The edge cut is not bad, and I did manage to saw according to the lines I drew. But when I try to attach two of such piece together, you can tell immediately that the 45 degree edge is not in perfect angle. It's not perfectly flat either.

I can't use a plane to flatten the edge because of its shape. I couldn't get a good grip, and the edge seemed to be pretty rough.

I've been trying to use a handsaw to fix the edge by attaching it to the edge while carefully sawing. It only solves a part of the problem. Is there a better way to flatten the edge (hopefully without a router)?


texts: Can i install condenser unit of split air conditioner in a rotated position?

texts:
I have to install a 1.5 ton split AC in my home. Due to some space constraints I can't install the condenser unit (the external unit) as instructed. Can I install it by rotating it by 90 degrees.

I am asking if it will create any problem in working of AC?


texts: I will be installing a double oven that has an MC cable pigtail and needs to be direct connect. I am at the stage of drywall and cabinet install. Can I install a piece of PVC conduit behind the drywall that goes from the back of the double oven cabinet to the basement below? The goal is on the install to route the pigtail down the pvc conduit and do the direct connect in a junction box in the basement below. I think the length will be 2 - 3 feet.


texts: Smartify 50s low-voltage lighting system

texts:
I bought a house with a low-voltage lighting system, where the switches have low-voltage wires that power relays that actually power the full-voltage lights. I want to find out if I can take advantage of all the low-voltage wiring to install a system that can integrate with home-automation systems. The relays are all centrally located, so I am hoping that a centrally located computer could do the work of the old relays.

I am assuming that I would have to replace all the switches and relays with something more compatible with computer I/O voltages or something like that, but I am not very proficient with electronics, which is why I am asking here.

A description of the system can be found here: https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/sierra-electric-low-voltage-lighting-info/

Any ideas?


texts:
I have install 2 Lutron 150W(LED) dimmer and connect it to 2 LED recessed light and 6 LED recessed light respectively, all LED light are 5W(6000K) with a driver of it own.

There are few problems after installation:

for the 2 LEDS:

There is about half second delay when I turn the light on.
If I turn the dim level to lowest, and turn on the switch, one of them will have difficult to be turned on, but then I can turn the dim level up and all of them will be on.

for the 6 LEDS:

There is about half second delay when I turn the light on.
If I turn the dim level to lowest, and turn on the switch, some of them will have difficult to be turned on, but then I can turn the dim level up and all of them will be on.
If I turn the dim level to highest, none of them will be turned on.

As you can see, they are having the same issue, my contractor told me to purchase higher wattage dimmer. But I am not sure how this will solve the issue.

Please help me :(


texts: What is the correct use for linseed oil on outdoor wood?

texts:
I have doors, patio furniture and windows which all need constant attention in terms of varnish and wood sealers.

I have recently found a good contact for raw linseed oil, and would like to use something like this to preserve my wood.

What is the better choice between raw and boiled linseed and should I rather use the polywax sealers that you get in stores?

Essentially I would like to retain the lustre of the wood.


texts: Is it a bad idea to tie output of hot water heater to sump pump drain?

texts:
I bought a house and I have a leaking hot water heater (appliance is from 2001). I'd say it fills up an 8 ounce cup after two hot  10-15 minute showers. I had a plumber come out and he replaced the value:
After a week it started leaking again. My dad came over and came up with the idea of cutting off the overflow pvc pipe from the water heater and redirecting it to the sump pump line (marked in rectangles below)

It makes sense to me - if its leaking water, redirect the water to the sump pump. I am trying to figure out if

This is a huge mistake and I shouldn't do it because we are not thinking of something
Would my water bill increase because I'd still be wasting more water than usual? I'd imagine an extra say 2 cups a day isn't that much in the grand scheme.

I figure if we replaced the water heater down the raod, we would have the undo what the PVC that we add, but that shouldn't be an issue.


texts: How do I remove the drill bit from my hammer drill?

texts:
I have a HD 400 Hammer drill from Black and Decker and I have no idea how to take out the drill bit. The drill has from the top the drill bit, then I guess its called a head and then a base on which the head is mounted and then the plastic body with all the buttons etc. What do I have to do to take out the drill bit? What should be rotated in what direction?
Heres a picture of the drill machine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzxuGu7rBIw

I dont want to screw up my drill or tighten the already jammed drill bit.


texts: Bathroon light and ceiling exhaust fan wiring?

texts:
I feel like this is something I should be able to do but after reading similar threads I'm still confused:
My bathroom is setup with two 12/2 wires coming into the switch box. One I know for sure goes to the ceiling exhaust fan and only the fan (the yellow sheathed wire). The other should goto my light. The ground on the light wire is connected directly to the box if that matters.
With the breaker on, the common wire in the switch box that is coming from the light is hot?
Does this make sense and how would I wire a single switch so when its on, both the light and fan are powered?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: I know at one time this was set up on two switches in the switch box. I'd like to avoid that and run both off the same switch.


texts: LG TROMM washing machine says door is open but it is closed

texts:
I suspect it is some kind of mechanical or electric connection that is not working but am at a loss on how to find out how to fix it.  It is a few years old but works fine.

I sometimes get it to work by opening or closing it or pushing on the door.

the door shuts tightly even when the error code says it is open.

EDIT
The problem is intermittent.

TROMM Steam washer
Model number:
Wm2688HWM


texts: Prototype: 12 DC car battery to power standard 120 VAC hand tools

texts:
Objective:  Today I power my tools (drill, circular-saw, reciprocal saw etc.) in my shed by running a power line from my house.  I wish to install solar power panels on my shed; however, before I do so, I wish to make sure everything is theoretically and practically correct.
Prototype: My thoughts and calculation:

A circular saw needs the most power compared to other tools (~13 amps); hence I used it for my baseline worst-case scenario. i.e. the circular saw needs 13 amps * 120 volts = 1,560 watts
With a 12v DC battery, 1560 watts would imply that I would need 130 amps
A normal car battery at full charge stores about 48 amp-hours
This implies that a fully charged car battery would run my circular-saw for about 48 amp-hours / 130 amps = 0.36 hours = 0.36 * 60 ~ 22 minutes
I plan on converting the 12v DC to 120-volt AC using a standard OTS inverter (~$20)

Questions:

Is my (sizing) calculation correct?
Is my prototype’s design reasonable?
Any suggestions?


texts: Do I need to use cripple studs if header is tight to the top plate?

texts:
So I am placing a 13ft LVL Header beam, in a load bearing wall, to place a Patio Door.

I am using a 3-1/2 by 11-7/8 Versa-Lam LVL beam, as recommended by my Engineer.

I am planning to place the top of the beam tight to the bottom of the plate above, leaving no room for a Cripple stud.

Is this not acceptable? Or do I have to have Cripple Studs between the beam and the top plate?

Thank you.


texts: Is it safe to enable a service panel that has been recently flooded?

texts: My breaker panel started gushing water during a storm. Is it safe for us to turn it on now that it's over? Does it need to be replaced? Will we get electrocuted if we turn it on while it's still wet though no longer gushing?


texts: Cheap solution to unscrew and screw back a refillable lighter valve (to clean a lighter)

texts:
Here is the valve that need to be unscrewed:

the lighter:

I have seen some expensive solution, and I'm not even sure they would fit since those valve and removal tool might not be standard.

I have tried with 2 small slotted screwdrivers, but without success.

Any idea?

(A low quality gas that contain impurity blocked the valve)


texts: Does the junction between two horizontal spaces need to be fireblocked?

texts:
This question is in regard to interpretation of IRC:2012 R302.11 for a single family dwelling.
It is clear that junctions between vertical and horizontal framing need to be fireblocked  (e.g. between a wall cavity and the bottom of an interior soffit). However, I am less clear on fireblocking requirements for junctions between what could be considered two separate horizontal concealed spaces that run perpendicular to one another (e.g. between floor joists and the top of an interior soffit that runs perpendicular to those floor joists). Please see the diagram in this answer for a visual depiction of the example described: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/66942/36011.
This question is with regard to interpretation of the statement I have put in bold from R302.11 of IRC:2012:

R302.11 Fireblocking.
In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space.
Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction in the following locations:

In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows:

1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels.
1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet (3048 mm).
2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings.

In concealed spaces between stair stringers at the top and bottom of the run. Enclosed spaces under stairs shall comply with Section R302.7.

At openings around vents, pipes, ducts, cables and wires at ceiling and floor level, with an approved material to resist the free passage of flame and products of combustion. The material filling this annular space shall not be required to meet the ASTM E 136 requirements.

For the fireblocking of chimneys and fireplaces, see Section R1003.19.

Fireblocking of cornices of a two-family dwelling is required at the line of dwelling unit separation.


texts: Where is A/C switch? How to turn it off?

texts:
I'm trying to install a new c-wire based thermostat, and I plan to turn off the A/C power before I touch the C and R wires (24v). However, I couldn't locate the power switch.
The breaker box has some switches with suspicious labels: 'SD', 'E.D.O' and 'F.A.U'. Not sure which one belongs to A/C.
(BTW: what does those abbreviations mean?)
I also find there is a standalone breaker box with only 1 switch next to the A/C external unit. Is it the right one?
Any cautious needs to be paid attention to when turn off (and turn it back on) this standalone switch?


texts: Should I have cat6 and wireless installed in my house to be built?

texts:
We are having a house built and one thing we can add (for $200) to our home network along with 4 hardwired cat6 ethernet connections ($800) is

  Enhanced Wireless/Switch - Includes network switch located in the Home network center. Two intelligent high power access points with roaming handoff. Professionally installed and activated with 2x2 MIMO antennas. 802.11b/g/n standard.

Is this something I could/should do myself or is the price to effort ratio good enough to shell out $1000 for them to install it?

I could also just get the 4 ethernet wall outlets for just the $800 if that makes more sense.

I am decent with my hands, have changed some light fixtures, thermostats, and set up a few routers in my years.

EDIT: this would be installed by me after the house is built and the walls are fully painted. I cannot do the work myself on framed walls.

EDIT 2: Thanks for the recommendations everyone! I'm going to try for conduit so I can DI myself and perhaps run other cables (great suggestion!), but if they refuse, settle for the $800 wired outlets and not the additional wi-fi.

UPDATE: I asked them for the conduit, but they said it would be $400 per connection, total of $4000 for the 10 I requested. I laughed and opted instead for the $800 package without wireless. I thought this was the best for me since I had enough projects to do after move-in that this was something I felt comfortable offloading on them.


texts: Adding a new switch with an independent light in an existing circuit - With photos

texts:
I have two switches at the bottom of my stairs in the basement. One switch is a three way to the switch at the top of my stairs. The other switch lights a series of lights all connected to the same circuit. One of those lights is in the pantry and what I would like to do is isolate that light from the rest by adding a single pole switch to the room. The switch at the bottom of the stairs would still light up the rest of the lights.

Do I need to run a separate hot from the existing box to the new box where the new switch in the pantry will be for the pantry light.


texts: How do you call a concrete water catching thing under outdoor water tap?

texts:
How do you call this concrete thing under the tap on pic #1? Does it come prefabricated or is it made in place and, if so, how? Does it require connection to drainage system?

I just need something under my outdoor tap so whatever water gets out when say water hose is disconnected is caught somewhere and doesn't simply flow downhill. See pic #2. I don't really want to connect it to drainage system as it is obviously much more work.


texts: Can I print plastic blank space fillers for my service panel?

texts: I'm guessing the answer is "no" but I saw this question and got curious. If panel fillers are expensive, and you don't have a breaker, can you 3d print your own? I'm guessing the panel front cover and fillers are part of UL and therefore making your own is against code?


texts: What are the most important things to check/do after buying a home?

texts:
We are in the process of purchasing a home that is over 20 years old. What are some of the most important things we should check/patch/do right away to make sure the home is running correctly and efficiently?

We live in Canada, so keep in mind that winter is (always!) around the corner.


texts: I have a couple stained glass windows that look to have paint around the outsides from previous owner painting the trim. Any suggestions on removing the paint without damaging or am I out of luck?


texts: How to Turn Off Water Softener Recharge Schedule

texts:
I have a GE GXSF40H water softener in use at my cottage.

It automatically recharges overnight.

I want to prevent it from doing that (and just use the manual recharge feature) as we're typically only at our cottage on weekends. I prefer a manual recharge so as to not waste salt during the week when no water is in use. I know how to do a manual recharge, but I can't find any instruction on how to prevent the scheduled automatic nightly recharge.

The manual (http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/d/dfe8864c-63f3-4dd7-8f62-9d91804242f8.pdf) doesn't specify how to do that.

Does anyone know how to accomplish this (or know if it's even possible?)


texts: Can I use a Miele washing machine for US (2 x 110V) with 220V plug

texts:
Suppose that I have a low end Miele washing machine (say, WWH860WCS) designed for the US market, with 2 x 110V plugs. Very naively, I am guessing that the machines being made in Germany would be mostly identical to those offered in Europe, and the 2 inputs are, roughly speaking, connected in series to produce 220V. Now the question is, can I safely use the machine by plugging one of the inputs to 220V and leaving the second plug idle?
Or is there another (sufficiently simple) way of using such a washing machine in a 220V country?
Thank you.


texts: What can I do about a jammed tub drain plug?

texts:
We have an older home with a parallel bar tub drain plug that is internal to the P trap. Similar to that of a Bathroom sink. Lift the lever up, to bring the plug inside the p-trap to position to plug the tub.

Works fine one day, now it wont budge, stuck open.

I have removed the t screws on the lever plate and the linkage in sight appears fine. Inside the P trap not much to see, but there is no blockage.

We only have one tub in the house and this makes kid baths go fast. Plugging the drain with a washcloth to slow it down. Still drains in about 10 minutes.

What now? Am i stuck?


texts: I need to run a 50 amp line from my outside breaker box to plug in my RV. the distance is 400 to 500 ft. I will have an electrican do the hook ups but I want to run the piping and wire. I think the wire would be a 6-2 indoorwire that should carry the load, nothing else will be run off this wire. Suggestion?


texts: Single pole switch to combination switch

texts:
My light switch only has two wires, and I wanted to install a combination switch is it possible?

Im in new york and I dont know if this is even up to code with the city.


texts:
I have an In-sink-erator model garbage disposal with a black plastic housing. After fixing a jam (a shot glass that fell into it while running, quite destroying itself), I noticed that there was water appearing under the sink. I traced it back to the side of the unit where a small ~3 mm/0.125 in hole has appeared. Additionally, there is some white crud building up around the attachment ring and around this hole. The plastic itself appears to be corroded, as it has a rough texture near where the white crud is.

When a large enough volume of water goes down the drain or the disposal is run with water in it, water comes out of this hole at rapid pace.

I'm set on replacing the unit, but I'd like to know what caused the corrosion to hopefully prevent it in the future. We keep a number of cleaning supplies under the sink – vinegar, liquid bleach, carpet cleaner and deoderizer, powder dishwasher detergent. I thought the powdered cleaners such as Comet and AJAX were what you had to keep away from plastic plumbing, is that accurate?


texts: I have an older refrigerator that has a working ice maker that I want to put in my garage to have a second supply of ice when needed.  The only water supply in the garage is an outdoor spigot.  I wondered if I could potentially tap into this for a water supply for the refrigerator?  Is it technically possible?  If so, is it a bad idea for unforeseen reasons?  The garage has a garage door that is closed most of the time, so it is not directly exposed to the elements.


texts: I am working on a house that sat vacant for a few years. The pressure tank had a leak on the bottom from rust. So a new tank was installed along with new pressure switch 30/50 and gauge etc. There was only one wire with 2 leads going to switch as opposed to the normal 2 wire 4 leads. This is hooked up to a 15 amp breaker than to a coil of some type and a definite purpose contactor. The issue is the pump only runs 30 seconds or so and trips the breaker ? The well pump is submersible type but unknown hp or depth. But I would guess under 100 ft since neighbor says his is 75ft. Any suggestions as to why breaker is tripping would be greatly appreciated. thanks


texts: How can I set up a removable stair railing?

texts:
I need to install a handrail on a set of interior stairs.  I also need to be able to remove the handrail and balusters so that furniture can be taken up those stairs because of limited clearance. how can i attach the handrail and balusters to the upper and lower newel posts so that they are removable?

It looks similar to this except the knee wall meets the ceiling at the upper end:


texts: How can the door of an Indesit IWDC 6105 be opened when the internal door lock has burned?

texts:
I have an Indesit IWDC 6105 washing machine (link to manual) and its internal door lock burned during the cycle, causing the machine to be unusable (at least perhaps until the lock is replaced). Image below:

Given that the machine has no apparent mechanism to manually release the locked door, and that the lock appears to be attached by two screws that are behind the door (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxFJXCfgmlA&t=55s), how can the lock actually be removed?

I am keen also to remove clothing that is currently trapped inside before they get destroyed.


texts: What's the best material to patch gaps between moulding and the wall?

texts: I am installing new moulding (aka baseboards, woodwork, etc).  A few of the walls sort of dip inward, so a gap is left in between the moulding and drywall.  What's a good material for patching this gap?  Would ordinary spackle do the trick or is there a better alternative?  It has to be something I can paint over.


texts: Help with hiring pressure washing service

texts: I need to get my 2400 sq.ft., 2-story house pressure washed, and had a few services visit the house to provide quotes. The quotes are widely different so I need some advice to decide. Service A said he will use a 3000psi jet, put up a tall scaffold to stand on while washing, and charge $600 total. Service B said he will do a soft wash using a low-pressure jet (< 200psi pretty much same as the house water supply pressure), use a pole to reach the second story, and charge $300 total. Is Service A's method overkill and/or potentially damaging to the house? Does Service B's method sound sufficient given the amount of mold/mildew on the house is moderate? Both services use the same chemical (bleach).


texts: Running water in master shower causes guest bathtub spigot to drip

texts:
If this sounds familiar, I deleted my previous question cause I have more info that changes the facts.

I noticed that my son's guest bathroom tub had a little water around the drain after I took a shower. Last night, he ran the shower for a while and then noticed the guest bathtub spigot started a slow drip. What would cause that?


texts: Caulking a baseboard - which bit do you paint?

texts:
If I am using decorator's caulk to fill the gap at the top of the baseboard, I am left with a bead of caulk. I know I need to paint the caulk, once cured, to stop it attracting dust. So how do I paint the bead - do I paint it with the same paint as the baseboard, or with the same paint as the wall? Or half and half?!

What is the accepted way? What looks the best?

Thank you


texts: Connecting new drain/overflow drain assembly using coupling

texts:
I recently purchased a old house and I have had constant problems with the tub clogging.  In the past I was able to snake it successfully but this time the snake seems to have gotten stuck and when I tried to push it past I separated the connection where the pipe for the tub drain meets the pipe for the overflow.  I have gotten prices but right now it will take a while to get it fixed.  Looking at the connection I'm not sure if I could temporarily fix it using a flexible coupling.

The idea I had to fix it if just a coupling didn't work seemed a little involved but some what possible.  Apparently there is at least a couple of feet before the trap (this may be the cause of the constant blockage).  My thought is I could just replace the whole drain assembly and then use a coupling to connected the drain assembly to the rest of the pipe that goes to the trap.  I'm thinking this would hold until I can get it permanently fixed.

Is this a bad idea as a fix,  I have to replace the drain assembly anyway as part of the permanent fix and they generally go for about sixty dollars from what I can see.  Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: Can I install sheet vinyl over ceramic tile without adhesive?

texts: I live in a rented flat, so can't make substantial changes but have very ugly ceramic floor tiles which I would like to cover with some funky vinyl flooring. Is it possible to do this without glue so it can be removed when I move? Please advise.


texts: what kind of drywall texture is this and type of brush to use to get this texture

texts: I would like to know the texture in my drywall ceiling to repair and match the existing texture


texts: Gas fireplace will not come on or it goes off minutes after coming on

texts: When we turn on our gas fireplace switch it will sometimes come on, but typically doesn't. When it does ignite, the flame wil only stay lit for several minutes and then goes out. The pilot light remains lit, so that is not the issue. Do you think it is an electrical issue or a problem with the insert?


texts: Can I upgrade to a dimmer switch in my bathroom without using the ground conductor?

texts:
I'm installing a dimmer (and thus replacing the left switch in my bathroom) and from the four wall wires only the white and red attach to the left (light) switch and the bare wire (I'm assuming the ground) attaches to the right switch. They seem to operate independently as I can turn on the lights and/or the fan. The dimmer has a green ground wire that they say to attach to the ground however I do not have access to this wire as it is attached to the right switch.

Am I safe installing the dimmer using only the two wires that are attached to the left switch and leaving the ground unattached?

Left Switch Connection (red and white wires)

Right Switch Connection (bare and black wires)


texts:
I went to showroom recently and they showed me a product (which I've now forgotten the name of) which is basically a box that behind the wall or in the ceiling - it connects to wifi and is essentially a hidden switch. You can then connect via an app and switch lights on and off etc.

I like this idea because I can use my own choice of light switch and there's no restriction on the type/model of LED light that I install.

What is the class of these devices called? And who is doing them? All my internet searches keep coming to the regular wall-switch ones like lightwaverf.


texts: I am doing a custom cabinet with 1/4 inch quarter round around the openings in the cabinet.  I think a nail or brad gun would split the molding.  Would glue be acceptable?  If so, what glue would be good to use that will set within a minute so that all the pieces can be fitted together without multiple clamps?  One site mentioned liquid floor adhesive.


texts: How do I add a second wired garage door opener?

texts:
I'd like to add a hardwired garage door opener inside the house.   Can I simply splice the two wires from the main button to a second button (momentary switch), or do I need to run them all the way from the new second button to the opener hanging on the ceiling?

We're using a wireless remote currently, but I feel wired would be more secure (no need for tin boxes or aluminum foil).


texts: How to repair cupboard hing that tore off particle board

texts:
The top hinges of the cupboard have been torn out of the particle board taking a big chunk with it and leaving quite a deep crater with just a couple of dents for where the holes used to be as illustrated below.

The picture doesn't really show the depth of the ripped hole, but it's fairly deep and those screw holes are really just dents now.

Is there a fairly quick and easy way to fix this?


texts: How do I remove mineral stains from tiles?

texts: The water in our apartment has higher salt levels, which ultimately makes stains on tile.  I tried to remove them with various bleaching agents, but with no effect.  Can anyone help?


texts: Previous owner of our house left some large-ish holes in the wall. The biggest one is 8cm in diameter and the smaller ones are from dry wall anchor (Molly) bolts that I removed. They are about an inch wide. What's the best way to go about filling these?


texts: Remove a nail-in box with 3 romex cables and not cut drywall?

texts:
Single gang nail-in box for thermostat was about 1" recessed and probably too small for 3 romex cables of 10g wire. Orig. installer 30 years ago left 1.5 inches of sheathing on all cables. Extension boxes I bought were too small, so I thought I'd just replace box with a bigger one and bring it forward...
Cut box nails.Thought I would cut out box with dremel flex shaft but it isn't working...friend suggested Multitool but I can't see how a any size blade could get in there. Suggestions?


texts: Is there some easy way to remove paper tape from gun-driven nails after installation?

texts:
I am in the midst of a siding project. I'm securing my siding using a Paslode CF325XP cordless 30° Paper-Tape nail gun. The nails I'm using are 3 in. x 0.120" Galvanized Ring Shank Paper Tape Framing Nails

When I fire these nails, the paper tape usually sticks to the head of the nail. I then have to tear off the paper from the nail heads before I paint them. This a tedious extra step that requires me to get back on a ladder. So I wonder:

Is there a way to prevent the paper tape from clinging onto the nail head in the first place?
Is there an easier way to remove the paper tape cleanly from heads? One idea I had was to put duct tape sticky side out on a paint roller on a pole.

Picking off the tape with my hands doesn't always look as clean as I'd like:


texts: Do modern refrigerators and freezers benefit from point-of-use surge protection?

texts: If so, what type of protection is recommended?  And is it still needed if you have a whole-home surge protector installed at the load center? (I do, FWIW).


texts: Do I need water protection over tile grout in my bathtub?

texts:
A handyman suggested to me that I might need to periodically apply water-sealant to the tile and grout on the tile wall of my bathtub. Is he correct?

If so, what's a good sealant to use,  how is it best applied, and how often should I re-apply it? (It's probably been 15 years since the previous owner refinished this bathroom and put in a tile wall, so probably been 15 years since any sealing was done.)


texts: We put in a new 2.5 ton Trane HVAC unit, and when it hits 90 outside, it won’t hold 74 degrees inside. (1400-1500 sq. Ft). Will it help to put in a 3 ton unit, or will it do more harm than good?


texts: How do I install a wireless remote for a ceiling light without a fan?

texts:
I have a fan with lights in my ceiling. There is no wall switch, only a wireless remote. I'd like to avoid installing a wall switch if possible. I purchased a chandelier assuming that I could just install the chandelier and ignore the existing wiring for the fan, but am having problems.

The remote receiver that hooks into the box (Harbor Breeze Universal Ceiling Fan & Light Remote Control + Receiver) has 3 output wires, "Motor N", "Motor L", and "LIGHT". No matter how I tested the wires with a meter, I could not get a 120V reading that operated with the light switch on the wireless remote. I could get 100V, 110V, and 120V readings by clicking the fan button, which seemed to correlate with the Low, Medium, and High fan settings on the remote.

Am I able to install only a light with this wireless receiver? With the best of my knowledge, the only way I could get it to work would be to have to use the fan switch, which would require multiple clicks to turn it on and off. Do I need a different type of wireless receiver? I couldn't seem to find any other ones.


texts:
I am planning to mount swing (max 100 lbs) using eye bolt like this

Is there disadvantage vs. the swing hanger sold by playset manufacturer?


texts: Are Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels installed after 1986 considered safer?

texts: All info I read about Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels reference 1982 and older panels. Are the newer panels different and considered to be safer?


texts: Is it possible to install a 1/2" collet on my palm router?

texts:
I initially bought a router (this router) for some door hinge mortising.  Now I need to route a few 1"x1" channels in some MDF.  The 1" x 1 1/4" bit I need has a 1/2" shaft, but the collet on my router is only 1/4".  Here are my questions:

Can I get a new collet that supports a larger bit?
If I can, should I?  I guess I am thinking about torque and my router's engine here.


texts:
My Hotpoint stove shut off the burners while cooking. The light for "burner on"  stayed lit, but the burner went cold. I tried to reset the circuit breaker, and shut it off. The circuit breaker stays in the middle, and wont do anything, even with the stove unplugged. I tried turning off the main breaker, and resetting the stove breaker with the stove unplugged. The circuit breaker won't reset. It does however, allow enough current to allow the timer to blink on and off, even in the reset position, where it is neither on, nor off.
Is my circuit breaker (a double), bad?


texts: Will a non functional blower keep a gas dryer from heating?

texts:
Gas dryer quit heating a few days ago.  Took the back off and tested all of the thermostats all good.  The ignition system seems to be working too but haven't gone fully down that road.

DOH!

I see a spindle that screws on the top of my blower and a seemingly brand new looking blower belt...  Sitting on the floor of my dryer.  So I am going to put the belt on (chime in if you know how).

Would the blower not running cause something to shut the heat off?

Kenmore Elite 11077032601.  And the manual sucks so don't need links to that.


texts: Low-voltage LED Light string flickers when turned on, flickers go away after 2 mins

texts: We have several low-voltage LED light strips in our light-up cabinets in the kitchen. They have all worked fine for 3 years. One of them has now started to flicker for a couple of minutes when turned on. After that it goes back to steady light. If I turn them on/of they all come back fine so it is only one out of more than 10 strings that behaves like this. They all have individual low-power converters so I assume I can switch two converters to see if the problem is within the light strip or converter. It is just odd that it started after 3 years, with no changes related to the power supplied in the house/kitchen area. Any idea why this has started? I assume the low-voltage power supply is most likely the problem...?


texts: What's a simple solution to have 2 NEMA 14-30 receptacles and switch power between them?

texts:
Currently I have a NEMA 14-30 receptacle for the dryer. I'm wondering is it possible to split one receptacle into 2 NEMA 14-30 receptacles and install a switch to select which receptacle to use when needed?

I need to have an extra jack for my car charger, otherwise I have to unplug the dryer every time I need to charge my car.


texts: I have recently discovered a light brown ring stain on my white coffee table. I have no idea where it came from (I'm still racking my brain for things I've put on the table that would create this shape). It won't come off from normal cleaning with a cloth/cleaning product. Does anyone have any ideas how I can get rid of the stain?


texts: Bath tub stopper won't go down into "locked" position anymore

texts:
I took off the bathtub stopper and now, when I put it back down into the drain, it won't push down into the locked position! Gahhh....

Basically, the stopper will fit into the drain, but it's left perpetually in the "open" position. I've tried multiple orientations, and I'm pretty sure I've got the right orientation, but it just won't pop down like it used to...Any ideas? It's a Grohe tub, if that helps.

Image: the circle on the right is the bottom of the stopper, the circle on the left is the drain that it fits down onto.


texts: How can I control two lights together at one switch location and independently at two other locations?

texts: I want to install a couple lights above our night stands. Pendants or wall sconces; kind of irrelevant. I have been searching about getting these wired on a four-way circuit with all three switches having the ability to dim using Meastro switches. I am wondering if it is possible to wire these so there is a switch by the entrance to the room and two switches on each side of the bed. The switch at the entrance would turn both lights on and the switches on the sides of the bed would turn their respective side light on/off independently from the other side? I’d like to use these to light the room on entry as well as have the ability to just turn my side light on without bothering my wife. Almost like a double three way switch but the double switch always throws both lights on. Hope this is a clear enough explaination.


texts:
Retaining wall is about 10' high at the highest point. I want to build a bbq island along the wall, brick oven is at the end of the island. It had to be at a 45 deg. angle because it's much deeper then the countertop.

Plan is for contractors to pour a level concrete pad to build the bbq island on, but I don't know how close the structure should be to the wall.

Too much of a gap will put the front of the island in the way of the patio door.

Current design leaves a 2.5" gap between bottom of island and wall. At the top of the island, the gap would be atleast 1 ft, because the wall isn't vertical, it slopes away from the island like all retaining walls.

But, there's no way I could finish the back of the island with 2.5" gap at the bottom. Maybe build the back of the island out of concrete block, leave it unfinished, then the remaining sides/internal structure would be metal studs, backer board and finished with stone?

Any tips or ideas?


texts: Replace a 36" door with a Five ft slider on a two story load bearing out side wall

texts:
What should the header size be? I was thinking two 2x12.
One king and two jack studs on each side?
Do I need to build a temp support while installing the new header?


texts: 240v pool timer with 120v outlet, proper usage?

texts:
My pool cleaner timer which is 240v has a outlet added that looks like a 120v.
Can I use the outlet to plug in a 120v light or must it be a 240v?
(looks like a standard 120v outlet one finds in a house).


texts: Why does the hot water tank need to be drained of water in order to replace the gas valve?

texts:
I'm changing the gas valve in my hot water heater. Exactly as shown in this video.

The video is queued at the point where they drain the water from the hot water tank. My question is... why?

Note: The instructions from the manufacturer also call for draining the water from the tank first too. So the video makers aren't just making up this step for nothing, I presume.

Why does the hot water tank need to be drained of water in order to replace the GAS valve? And what bad things could happen if I replace the gas valve without draining the water out of the tank?

Fig.1. Video maker points to hose connection point for draining tank

Edit: According to this video, it looks draining the water might be a safety precaution? As any hot water left in the tank could be a scalding risk? So it seems like if I'm certain the water in the tank is cold, I can skip draining the tank?


texts: Is it possible to raise beams like these?

texts:
I'm visiting houses with my partner, who really likes old cottages.

Problem is, there are lots of doorways like this:

Is is possible to make this doorway 'human' sized without the house falling down. Good answers would include links to projects were it has happened and potential estimates of cost. :)


texts: Using a dimmer on a light plugged in to a receptacle

texts: My home is 42 years old. The kitchen lighting consists of 2 48" fluorescent shop lights each plugged into a normal 110v receptable. It uses a standard, 1 way, on/off switch. I want to convert from fluorescent to incandescent and still use the plug. I intend to use a 6 light incandescent vanity bar and low wattage (25w or 40w bulbs). However, since there will not be any other type of fixture being plugged into that receptacle except the incandescent light bar, can I use a dimmer switch without hard wiring the fixture? can I use the plug/receptacle? The circuit uses a 15A circuit breaker. I do not want to violate and electrical building codes.


texts: Is there a way to install a tub such that it can dry out if water gets behind it?

texts:
When you install a tub, you try to build the surround such that water can't get through to the wall. That's great.

Nothing is perfect, and eventually small amounts of water will seep through. Then the water will be trapped in the wall or floor, and have a hard time getting out.

Is there a way to install a tub so it can dry out behind & underneath?


texts: I'm making an AC unit out of a cooler, a fan, a PVC tube, and some ice. I'd like to take the fan off of the base, but its power/speed switch is screwed into it. Does this provide grounding or does the ground cable take care of that? Will it be okay if it's not screwed into anything? Thanks in advance.


texts: How to shut off water from city meter with no customer shut-off valve

texts: I want to shut off the water from the main city supply in order to repair my main water valve inside the house.  But there doesn't seem to be any shut-off valve, Please refer to pictures


texts:
I have a nice oak desk chair that's on caster wheels. The plastic wheel inserts used by the manufacturer broke up and crumbled, of course, because that's what plastic does when used in high-stress applications it shouldn't be used in.

I bought some replacement wheels with metal inserts, but the inserts are 3/8 inch while the originals were 5/8 inch, so the drilled holes are too large to begin with, plus they've been worn by the wheels wiggling about once the plastic inserts broke up.

This photo demonstrates what I'm talking about:

I see two solutions here:

Fill the holes with wood filler and drill new holes to fit.
Fill the holes with wood filler and then insert the new metal bases while the wood filler is still wet, basically gluing them in.

The downside of option 1 is drilling four identically plumb holes with a hand drill. I don't own a drill press.

The downside of option 2 is I would need to fill the inserts with something to keep wood filler out while I'm inserting, but that's no big deal.

Am I overlooking other options? How should I proceed?


texts:
I had a regular 15amp duplex outlet in my kid’s room.  Because it is on the third floor, the heat doesn’t work that great and we had a small ceramic heater plugged in.  She called me into her room.  She unplugged the heater because there were “scorch” marks around the top part of the duplex.

Went to the hardware store and bought a new outlet.  (15 amp duplex outlet with also two USB ports)  Hooked it up and then tested it.  The bottom half of the duplex tests “correct”, when I plug it into the top part it says open ground.

It is not controlled by a switch and I didn’t break any tabs.
What could make this happen?  Is it safe to use the outlet or just the bottom of the duplex?  I tested all the other outlets on that breaker and they are all fine.  I also double checked my connection and the plastic box connections.  Do outlets with USB ports show open grounds?

While it would be a mystery that would be good to be solved, would putting a GFI outlet in that box assure it is grounded?

Before I call someone I want to see if there is something I may be missing.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Looking for alternative to Lexan sheets for DIY or crafting projects

texts:
I have a few DIY projects in mind that need some rigid non-metal sheets that I can easily cut, drill holes in them.

Lexan would have been a perfect choice, but it is a bit expensive.
Plywood is not as strong as Lexan.
The sheets I need do not have to be transparent or good looking.
Metal is not an option so it is safe for electrical DIY projects
All I need a sheet with tough and strong material.

What are more cost effective alternatives to Lexan?


texts: Can inline range hood exhaust fan damper be safely/legally installed,1st floor of 2 story apt

texts:
I live in a 2 story apartment.  Whenever the tenants directly upstairs turn on their range hood exhaust fan, I get whatever they are cooking/burning in my apartment.  I have pulled down the range hood and there is no inline  damper.
1.  Can an in-line damper be installed safely and legally (fire code?)
2.  Is it possible past landlords (It's almost 60 yrs old) replaced range hoods (this range hood is about 8 yrs old) and INTENTIONALLY left out damper to save on maintenance/insurance costs?
3.  Is it possible that the entire exhaust system for both upper and lower kitchens is designed to work without in-line dampers, and there is another problem in the system.  (Clogged at the roof? Single in-line damper upstairs missing/defective?)

PS.  The last landlord suggested putting in a new range hood with a simple air return back into the kitchen (which is probably illegal.)  The new landlord's super suggested I simply turn on my exhaust fan when I start to smell something. (What I've been doing for the last six years except when I'm not home). I'm kinda on my own.


texts: What is a good way to protect the low voltage wiring on a doorbell transformer?

texts: I'm quite afraid of accidentally hitting the doorbell wiring and breaking the wire since the transformer is located in a somewhat accessible location n the garage. What's a good way of protecting the wiring that comes from the transformer? I've thought of using conduit but can't see a good way to route it.