texts: Replacing drywall panels: butt or tapered edge?

texts:
When re-opening walls for plumbing, electrical changes I elected to remove whole drywall panels, when replacing these with new panels should I present a tapered edge to the previously finished edge?  Or does it now count as a "butt edge" and should I cut the drywall for a butt-to-butt edge?

I'm reading that it's more difficult to finish a taper-to-butt seam.

In one case the paper tape came up easily, should I do elsewhere?

I'll be hiring a taper/mudder to re-finish these seams.


texts: How can I determine which is the neutral wire in an old house light box?

texts:
I went to wire the replacement ceiling fan and discovered the colors of the house wiring to not be identifiable.

They both look white. On the other hand they both look black. How can I determine which is the white common wire? I have access to a cheap multimeter if needed.


texts: Plumbing jacks without cover on top, is it normal?

texts: It seems that two plumbing jacks on my roof do not have a cover on top, and I used a DJI drone to fly over, and cannot see cover on the surface too. Is it normal to have a plumber jack without cover like this? Is there any concern that some animals or rain can get through it?


texts: How can I join 2x6 pressure treated wood for a shed base?

texts:
I am creating a wood frame for my Suncast Sierra shed. I already weighed the pros and cons of each option for a base and came out with a wood frame as the most economical with all factors considered. That being said, I am following the documentation outline attached below:

I have all of the pressure treated wood purchased and will be cutting it soon, however I have never actually built anything, no less outside.  What is the best method for connecting these 2x6 boards in the pattern outlined above?

If nails or screws directly between each other, what is the ideal size (I bought 3 inch pressure treated earlier but figured I should ask so  I don't splinter the wood if that's overkill on size). I know there are mettle L joints that could be used, so maybe that's the ideal option? (Again if so whats ideal length for screws and size for joint / preferably actual product term so I can ask for them).

Also do I need to pre-drill the holes or should I be fine just directly drilling them with the screw?


texts: What termite treatment is needed for reclaimed wood being used indoors

texts:
I've saved a handful of planks from my old back fence after replacing it, and plan to turn them into indoor furniture (coffee table, etc.).  After some experimentation I've decided I want to seal and finish it with oil-based polyurethane and no stain.

But I'd like to know if I should take any special measures against drywood termites beforehand.  I'm not keen to use anything strongly coloured or to drill holes in it, as is required by so many wood treatment options, because the wood's being used decoratively.

Various sites suggest orange oil to kill off anything still living in there and to break down pheromones which might otherwise attract more termites, but I wonder if this job isn't already taken care of by the solvents in the polyurethane.

Could I simply thin my first coat of polyurethane using orange oil?  Or will any (more appropriate) paint thinner do just as well against termites?  Or do I need a dedicated treatment beforehand?


texts: Solar panels: converter has AC Voltage out of range

texts:
Since about six months our house has solar panels. There's a converter (4600 W) with two inputs hooked up to 6 and 7 solar panels respectively of 325 watt peak performance. Overall this setup runs fine.
On peak sunny moments however, the converter (which is hooked up to my wifi and I can read with an app on my phone) will tell me that my AC Outrange is out of bounds. On the Dutch power net, voltage should be 230V, with an upper tolerance of 253V. Apparently, we cross that threshold at times...
Now my question is: Is this over-voltage generated by my converter (and is that a factory defect / should my installer fix this) or is this voltage fed into my house over the power grid? I can imagine this happening on sunny days, as a lot of my neighbours have solar panels too.
I've polled this with the installer and the power company, but they're pointing fingers at each other and will send quite the invoice if they're called over to investigate. I'm trying to gauge what is causing this over-voltage to further pinpoint what party needs to fix this.
Included are two screen grabs of the app, showing one of the error messages, and the AC output voltage on a sunny moment (some time after getting the error). It rates the voltage at almost 250V, which is within tolerance, but barely.
The converter data

The error message


texts: Is voltage on the ground conductor a sign of short circuit?

texts:
When we touch the ground wire(!) on some of our power outlets, the tester lights up. Not as bright as when touching the live wire and the circuit breaker doesn't tip, but there is definitely "something". On the search for the potential cause, we opened up a few walls and found the following phenomenon: The copper wires in one of the distribution thingies are discolored. All three wire strands are affected.

Is that an indicator of arching? Are we getting close to the culprit? Or is there another problem present?


texts: I have a Kohler one piece, low-profile toilet - not sure of model (came with house which we have owned for 18 yrs).  While investigating why there is always a faint urine smell coming from the bowl, I discovered that no water was running from under the bowl rim during flushing, so the top of the bowl essentially was never getting cleaned. When I pulled off the top of the toilet to investigate, I found that there is a thick hose that leads to the area that feeds the rim but it was above the water level in the tank.  Problem is, if I adjust the valve float to raise the water above the hose, the tank fills, the water overflows into the rim and cleans the bowl, but of course the level then drops and the valve starts to refill the tank again. For the life of me I can't see how the rim flushing is supposed to work. Insights anybody?


texts: Why does my furnace turn off when the thermostat's LCD dims?

texts:
Recently I replaced an old mercury thermostat with a programmable digital model (a PRO1 T955W).

It is set to operate in Heating mode. The desired temperature is set to 70 and the in-home temperature is in the low 60s. Yet, the oil-burning furnace does not turn on.
As soon as I touch the LCD screen, its back-light turns on and shortly afterwards the furnace motor starts running/burning. Then after a few seconds, the LCD dims, and the furnace stops before the desired temperature was reached.

I was initially wondering if I might have switched around the R and C connectors. The thermostat only has those two inputs. After switching them again, the same problem persists.

Any ideas?

EDIT:

Here is a picture of the wiring. It shows the R & C wires. The insulation looks a bit worn. I have made sure that both cables are securely screwed into place.
Picture of Wiring

Here is a picture of the back side of the thermostat:
Picture of backside

Here is a picture of the thermostat display when connected. Here the display is lit (after I pressed the display), and the furnace immediately turned on. As soon as the display dimmed (after a few seconds of not touching the display), the furnace stopped immediately.
Picture of thermostat display


texts: Default an appliance to off (no power) when on generator power and on when on utility power

texts:
I'm planning a generator installation (Generac PowerPact 7.5kw) with an ATS with 8 circuits (i.e. Not whole house).
I want 240v hot water to always be on when on utility power. When the ATS switches to generator power, I want the hot water heater to be off and require manual intervention to turn it on. When power is switched back to utility, I want hot water always on.
I do not want it setup so that when power switches to generator, I have to go and turn off power to hot water.
You ask: Why is this hard and not just have separate breakers for utility vs generator? As I understand, the breaker in the ATS replaces the original breaker in the main box. So utility and generator power go through the same breaker and can't be controlled independently. But perhaps there's another way to wire it so I can have the situation described above in my second paragraph?
Update in regards to comments:
I'm planning on a Generac Powerpact 7.5.kw. I am in the northeast USA. The ATS is a subpanel off the main panel. I don't have a planned diagram but it's this kind of setup (minus optional sub panel on bottom left: https://i.imgur.com/VMhOpwe.png.
In regards to xy problem: Hot water uses 4500 watts and I have a furnace (~1100 watts running/~1500 watts startup) and well pump (~1500 watts running/~3300 watts startup). Hot water is not a necessity and puts me over my generator power limit. But I'd like the option to turn off the furnace or well pump and turn on hot water temporarily.


texts: Is it a good idea to chisel out the edge of rafters for wires?

texts:
I am wondering if it is a good idea to chisel out the edge of rafters for wires? We want to floor our garage attic, and there are wires criss-crossing on top of the rafters.

Update: These are regular 2x4 rafters. Or isn't that regular


texts: I am working on a project to provide networking data to a food production line. All of the power (both 120 & 220 volts is run in a chase approx. 15' long and the chase is roughly 8"s tall and 6"s wide. Instead of having my networking Keystone Jacks cut into a sheetrock ceiling tile above the production line I am wondering if I can run 4 CAT-6 SHIELDED network cable in the same chase that contains the 120 & 220 Romex and just cut in my keystone jacks with stainless steel wall plates on both sides of the food production line in the proper places I need to to be able to connect 4 video controllers to the store network?


texts: What would cause all my gfi recepticles to not reset in my kitchen?

texts: All my recepticles that are gfi except one will not reset nor will the outlets that are protected by them work? My house was built in 2006 and the receptacles are levitons. It tripped the breaker about a week ago then all of them stopped working except one. The one gfi has a crack in it. What do I need to check?


texts: Will removing subtreads and risers that are attached with construction adhesive and nails damage the stringer?

texts:
I am extending the width of my stairs, and need to remove the existing sub treads and risers.  They appear to be glued (construction adhesive I'm guessing because it is brown) and nailed.  Is this going to destroy the stair stringer when I remove them?

In case it is helpful, the reason why I am removing them is that I want to install new, wider subtreads and risers so that the wood flooring that is attached to them has a continuous surface.  The new wider subtreads and risers would be attached to two new trus joist stringers that will be installed where the previous pony/cheek wall was (where you see the exposed 2x4s in the images below).

An alternative would be to just add new subtreads/risers for the additional width of the stairs, and make sure that they are level.  But I think that is risky because there would be effectively 2 separate surfaces/platforms that the finished treads and risers would be attached to, which could lead to problems in terms of wood movement, etc.  I'm trying to decide which is the less risky path.

Images


texts: I am planning on building a wood workshop attached to my garage.  I have a 220 line already on the outside wall of my garage with two 20 amp breakers.  Can I install a 60amp sub box in place of the 220 line (which services my hot tub) and run 110 curcuits off that box and still have my hot tub?  If not, what guage/breakers do I need to run from my current service box to the new sub box?


texts: How can I find a three square panel door similar to this one?

texts: I've spent a while online trying to find a door like the one below that I could buy to replace it.  My search term has been 'three square panel carved door'.  Nothing even close.  And I can't find a manufacturer name anywhere on it.  Any suggestions?


texts: How can I remove a temperature and pressure relief valve that seems to be stuck?

texts:
I have a hot water heater relief valve that is leaking heavily.  The water heater manual states I should replace the valve (which is OK by me).

Unfortunately, I am not able to remove the valve as it is in too tight.  Are there some easy tricks to loosen it?


texts: Is the White color good for wall paint for rooms that are not exposed to the sun?

texts:
I am trying to find which is the best color for my corridor passage, because my corridor doesn't have enough light from the sun, Is white color(degree one) good for paint wall for Internal rooms/corridor passage that are not exposed to the sun directly?
on the following my corridor


texts: Can I obtain grounding from a different outlet?

texts:
I have a room with 2 ungrounded (2-prong) outlets and 1 switched grounded (3-prong) outlet. This has not been a serious inconvenience so far, as most of the equipment I wish to connect has ungrounded plugs and I can leave the switched outlet on. However, it would be nice to have the protection of a surge protector on more of my equipment, which requires a ground connection.

(I am renting, so let us assume for the purposes of this question that having the outlets replaced is not an option.)

For this purpose, I can imagine using a “2-prong to 3-prong” ground adapter to connect a separate wire run to the ground of the switched outlet (using another appropriate adapter, assuming such exists, to connect to the ground terminal with low risk of hot/neutral contact, or perhaps running to the outlet screw as a ground adapter would).

I would ensure that no 3-prong equipment is plugged into the surge protector connected this way (e.g. label and cover the ground pin sockets). This would hopefully eliminate the risk of loss of the safety ground (except for the surge protector itself).
I would verify that the 3-prong outlet does in fact have a ground. (Adequate testing would be a different question.)

My question(s):

Is this safe?
Is this useful? (That is, would the unusual pattern of wiring somehow interfere with the function of the surge protector?)
Is this permitted?

I'm not especially committed to this solution; it's just a thought that keeps coming to mind, and so I want to know how bad an idea it is.

I am in California, USA.


texts: Is the combination switch and outlet circuit in my 1970s home ok?

texts:
I’m replacing an existing incandescent light fixture in my garage with two LED fixtures.  The light is on a set of 3-way switches.  I expected to remove the existing fixture and find a hot and neutral.  However, the light is fed by a switched hot and tees into neutral.  It was a bizarre enough setup that I pulled all the faceplates and did some investigating.  If you look at the sketch, L2 is the light fixture that I plan on replacing.

O1 (outlet) and L3 are always hot, and control the garage opener and exterior spotlight, respectively.  S1 has a backstab going to S2 and two wires wrapped around the gold screw.  The part that concerns me is the combination of switched and always-on branches.  Is this type of setup ok?  I imagine it was back in the 70’s when the house was constructed, but now it seems like a ball of yarn.  Thanks


texts: Installing three way switch in two gang box

texts:
I’m trying to replace two normal, separate three way switches with Lutron Caseta Wireless system. So far I have only gotten either 1) the right switch works perfectly and the left switch does not work at all or 2) the right switch operates both lights which are supposed to be separate and the left does nothing still. I tried to follow a diagram and I ended up with result 2.

This is what I have done to get result 2:

Sorry for the bad photo, but it is the same as the diagram except the black/grey wires are all sort of combined (which I don’t think would affect the circuit). Thank you so much for any advice you might be able to provide.

EDIT: the original circuit looked like this, and just a reminder that the functions of the switches should be completely separate:


texts: Do breaker trip curves ever begin BEFORE the load printed on the breaker handle?

texts:
It's commonly accepted that the continuous load of a circuit should usually not be more than 80% of the rating of the lowest ampacity link in that circuit.

Do breakers ever 'enforce' this de-rating by being designed to intentionally trip at a load lower than the number printed on the handle?

For instance, if I put exactly 20 amps of electric heat on a 20 amp breaker, using conduit and all quality components, should I expect that to trip at some point, or not?

19 amps I would expect to trip never.  21 amps I would expect to trip 'eventually'.  10000 amps (dead short) should trip more or less instantly.  Correct me if I'm wrong.

Do branch circuit breakers work the same as mains in this regard?

For that matter, do any breaker's trip curve begin before it's displayed rating?  Are such breakers in common use?


texts:
I entered into a 32-years-old apartment. I checked all sockets with a super-tester. All of them are OK, except two sockets in a single room, where the super-tester shows "no grounding".

I talked with an electrician and he said that it might be related to the "control box" of the room, which is hidden somewhere behind one of the wall. EDIT: This is NOT the fuse-box of the entire apartment, which is visible just outside the door of the apartment. It is a control box for this specific room - a box that collects the wires from the general fuse-box and distributes them to the electricity points inside the room (two sockets and one light-bulb).

To detect this mysterious "control box", I used a radiation-tester. The radiation-tester shows electric radiation of several hundreds V/m near the socket, but, it shows no radiation in a circle of radius 1 meter around the socket, so I do not know how to find the control box.

My questions are:

How can I find the control box of the room?
Is this control box really the reason for the lack of grounding in the room? Or is there a different solution?


texts: Fill valve blowing air instead of filling tank

texts:
I have a toilet that had it's whole flushing mechanism replaces a few years back and it's just now developed some rather odd behavior. After flushing, the tube that comes from the fill valve appears to be blowing (or maybe sucking, it's hard to tell) air rather than filling the tank with water. If I shut the water off from the toilet and then turn in back on, it'll immediately start filling with water (as it should) and shuts off when the tank is full. Then, on the next flush, it'll make the constant air escaping noise and not fill the tank. It doesn't appear to be leaking water, but it is rather annoying.
Any idea what's going on here? I could (and maybe should) just replace the fill valve since they are cheap and pretty easy to swap, but I was curious if there might be a quicker fix.


texts: How do I disable the battery water level sensor on watchdog sump pump back up when I replace it with a sealed battery?

texts: I am replacing my sump pum back up battery with a sealed battery.  What do I do with the battery level water sensor?


texts: removing tree roots without stump grinder

texts: I am installing a sprinkler system in my backyard but a thick tree root is crossing a pipe path. This tree was actually removed last year (cut & stump grinding) and the tree roots are the remaining ones. One easy way is of course to rent a stump grinder but don't want to spend money only for this job. I am wondering if there is any other alternative way. I was thinking of using router bits to cut off the top portion of the roots up to, say 10" so that the pipe can pass. But, I am wondering if there is any other better method.


texts: What product should we use to finish stair treads?

texts: We are preparing to paint or stain interior basement stairs in a rental house.  What product would be best for finishing the treads?  We need to consider durability, non-slick surface and fast dry/cure time.


texts:
Buying a 10yo home FSBO, owner was the builder.  Owner says the wavy floor on the 2nd storey is from the roof not being on before they did the 2nd storey subfloor (OSB, 2000sqft) and several rainstorms damaging the subfloor.
It is probably up/down waves of 3/4"+ across several rooms... so it is a general problem.
It is finished in $10/sqft brazillian walnut (!? = $20k I. Brazillian walnut over wavy floors... ugh).
BUT looking closer the sags are not in the 16" between joist spacing, but both directions and 3 or 4 feet between "peaks".
Wife is BENT on buying this house.
Why would these floors be so wavy?  No visible foundation settling evidence (no drywall cracks, etc).

I first believed the owners story, but seeing the dips are not fitting in the space between joists... I am suspicious.

Votes for any of the following reasons?

Shoddy joist install where they are not level and square to each other? (Note, first floor is level)

Termites? (Note, first floor is level, no bounce in the floor is felt and no visible evidence, but we are in a termite area)

The owners story of weathered 2nd storey decking?

Other?

We are still in our inspection period.  Who do we have look at it to say one way or the other?


texts: Can I route a drain pipe under a gas line?

texts:
I want to reroute an outdoor drain pipe (rain water) to a better location but there is a gas line that is in the path that the drain pipe needs to go. Can I route the pipe below the gas line? I'm open to any suggestions on how to get the pipe routed properly.

Here is my poor illustration and photo to help understand the issue.


texts: How can I repair a persistent toilet seal leak?

texts:
The older rental home where an elder relative lives has a slight leak where the toilet attaches to the floor. Nothing else on the toilet appears to be leaking so is this probably an old floor "seal" / wax ring? (Ground floor with a crawl space under the house.)

She frequently cleans three sections of dark coloring (feces?) around the base but they gradually return. We're positive it's leaking from the bowl because those spots around the base of the toilet changed to blue/dark after she started using blue drop-in tablets (non-bleach). The spots are slowly getting bigger.

Getting the landlord to fix this is possible but problematic and his (cheap) handyman always makes a mess & takes twice too long. She wants to avoid dealing with them.

So ... is there any way that I could safely seal the toilet to stop the leak? Silicone or something similar? Or would that just be hiding possible damage under the toilet and the landlord needs to be notified?


texts: Chased Conduit Bend through Exterior Wall

texts:
I am in the middle of a re-wiring project, part of which requires installing new light switches on the inside of an exterior wall (plaster directly on brick). I will be installing the switch box flush to the wall surface and chasing the wall to install conduit (1/2" EMT).
One of the switches will control an exterior light which will be positioned above the switches on the exterior side of the wall. I imagine accomplishing this by a chase which extends straight above the switch box, then a 90° bend toward the external wall where I will install a surface-mounted box. My concern is the drilling depth required to install this conduit.
From what I can tell, my local code (based on the 2018 IRC) only provides restrictions on "chases and recesses," though these terms are not specifically defined. As I have no horizontal chases or chases wider than 12", I believe the only relevant restriction is the depth (not more than 1/3 wall thickness, corresponding to about 2.75" in my case):

Chases and recesses in masonry walls shall not be deeper than
one-third the wall thickness. The maximum length of a horizontal chase
or horizontal projection shall not exceed 4 feet (1219 mm) and shall
have not less than 8 inches(203 mm) of masonry in back of the chases
and recesses and between adjacent chases or recesses and the jambs of
openings.Chases and recesses in masonry walls shall be designed and
constructed so as not to reduce the required strength or required fire
resistance of the wall and shall not be permitted within the required
area of a pier. Masonry directly above chases or recesses wider than
12 inches (305 mm) shall be supported on noncombustible lintels.

The bend will have the minimum 4" radius, so over a length of around 2-4", the chase will be deeper than the maximum before transitioning to a hole. I do not see any specific restrictions on holes drilled in masonry wall in my code. Does the 90° bend into the wall to the exterior violate the code restrictions on chase or recess depth? The alternative is to use an intermediate junction box in the interior wall, but it would need to remain accessible and therefore visible (not what I want). I do not believe I can use 90° pull elbow and bury it in the wall at the end.


texts:
I recently replaced my vinyl floors with bamboo (Yanchi)
The sub-floor had a small amount of black mold, but no moisture source was present. I removed it with some non-toxic treatment from Ace, and installed the new bamboo over it.
Now, after a couple of hours in the home, both my fiance and I become lightheaded and develop headaches. I cannot currently stay in the home due to symptoms of: headaches and feeling of tiredness/reduced ability to concentrate.

At first we thought it was just some light mold exposure, and that the symptoms would subside as the airborne spores dispersed. It has been over a month, and the condition has not changed.

Actions taken so far:

New CO alarm installed with no triggering.
CO2 meter purchased and has never read above 800 ppm in any portion of the house.
Gas company tested for CO and natural gas. All 0's.
All sewer connected plumbing is confirmed to be sealed with traps.
Professional air quality inspection performed, verifying no/normal levels of: Formaldehyde, CO2, all common mold types.
Ozone generator run for 24 hours.
AC duct work inspected for leaks.
Windows opened and fans run with no AC for 1.5 weeks.

The condition remains. Neither of us get any respiratory problems whatsoever.
I am out of ideas. Help me internet, you're my only hope.


texts: What's the best way to fix this horrible drywall patch job?

texts: Is there a technique I should use to smooth this in so it doesn't look this bad? Before paint I thought it looked fine but it's obvious my drywall skills are not as good as my other ones.


texts: Can I install outlets in my window wells?

texts:
I'm helping my folks install battery-operated sump pumps in three window wells to deal with a persistent flooding problem. We're running a GFCI-protected circuit from a nearby sub-panel to each location for the battery tenders.

Is it acceptable to install wall-mounted outlets (with full plastic conduit and weather-resistant covers) below grade in egress window wells?


texts: Is it a good idea to use a Fernco repair fitting within a finished wall cavity?

texts:
I have an unfinished basement, and I installed a redirector for my sump pump output so it can be drained to the sanitary sewer during winter months (and yes, I'm paying for the right to do so, and I'm following the rules :)).  I installed a wye in the vertical drain pipe, and I needed a way of reconnecting said pipe after introducing the new fitting.  To do this, I took a section of the 3" pipe, glued it to the top of the wye, and joined it to the original pipe with a Fernco fitting (specifically, this guy).

The question: is it safe to leave the Fernco fitting in place and enclose it in a wall when I go to finish the basement?


texts: Question about spring covering on old double hung window

texts: I have double hung windows that utilize a spring covered by a plastic sleeve as pictured below. The sleeves are 65 years old and some are crumbling. My two questions are: 1) do these sleeves serve any function in assuring that the spring works correctly and 2) does anyone know how I can replace the sleeves? Thanks.


texts: Automatic timers for 4-way switch, or how to automatically turn off lights in a stairwell

texts:
We have a stairwell which goes from the first to third floor of the house, with a landing on the second floor. It's a straight shot all the way up, with the landing in the middle. There are switches at the top, bottom and on the landing, (there is a door to the second floor on the landing).

It's currently set up with two 3-way and a 4-way switch so you can turn the lights on and off from any of the switches. The problem is that these lights end up always being left on.

Any ideas on how to either replace one or all of the switches such that if the light is on for more than 10 minutes, it turns off?


texts:
I have a new LED ceiling light fixture that I got to replace an old T12 fluorescent light in our kitchen which stopped working. After turning off the breaker, verifying that there was no power to ceiling fixture with a voltage pen, I removed it noting that it was only connected to a black wire and a white wire in the ceiling box.

New light has white wire, black wire and a ground wire. I connected the white wire to white and black wire to black, but am now stumped on where to connect the ground. The LED does get voltage as the no-contact pen lights up when I switched the breaker back on (yes, I was careful not to touch the fixture when it did that).

I've enclosed pictures of the junction box (1st & 2nd pictures) as in there I see a white wire spliced to a black one (red wire nut), plus on the right side of the junction box are what looks to be a black wire and a dark brown one - unless that's just discoloring from age - wrapped in some black cloth tape (orange wire nut).

Tell me what I'm doing wrong and thanks in advance for any help.


texts: Smart dimmer Wi-Fi (Globe or C-GE) to old wiring?

texts: Wiring smart globe dimmer switch with white, black, green red but my box is old and I only have black white and cooper.  Sure no neutral.  Help please.


texts: How to loosen a nut when bolt and nut move together?

texts:
I have a sofabed whose back is fixed to the bed by bolt and nut. When I try to loosen the nut by wrench, the bolt and nut move together. There are no rust. How shall I loosen the nut?

Update: the head of bolt has a shallow hex hole. I have got help from another who used hex wrench to stick into the hole of the bolt head and fix/rotate the bolt, together with a regular wrench to rotate the nut.


texts: Code compliance of custom wooden surface "conduit" in garage

texts:
TL;DR: Would it be code compliant and safe to build a narrow wooden box to run along the base of a garage wall to protect runs of numerous electrical wires?

I'm going to be adding a load center subpanel inside my garage (fed from a 50 amp breaker in the main panel with a 4x 6-gauge cable) to make it convenient and modular to add electrical outlets for shop tools.  Initially I'd like to design the new subsystem to accommodate six independent 20-amp GFCI outlet circuits and overhead lighting, but I don't picture adding them all at once, so I want to design it so each addition will be easy and have minimum cost as I can get to it.  Although it's a lower priority, it would also be nice to have it easy to swap the 6/4 feeder cable for a larger gauge if I ever want to feed the subpanel from a larger amperage breaker.
For context, the main panel is combined with the service meter, on the exterior of the attached garage.  Where I want to locate the subpanel is on a new piece of plywood over the surface of the drywall, on the opposite side of that  wall, inside the garage.  It will probably be a few stud bays over from where the main panel is affixed.
Obviously, I want my solution to be safe and code compliant.  My location is Lehi, UT.  I do have a specific right/wrong question related to a specific solution idea (though, of course, I also welcome alternative ideas in the comments).
I prefer surface mount for both the boxes and the subpanel to minimize the need to remove and rehang the drywall or to fish wires through studs.
I have already begun a design using a single PVC conduit for running wires (It's inexpensive and easier to modify, and I'm less concerned about toxicity of burning PVC in a garage than I would be in the house).  I like the idea of a single conduit running along the wall base to carry the wires for all future outlets.  I have found charts (such as [this one][1]) that give appropriate diameters for the number of wires, but at those sizes it seems more difficult to find the right conduit bodies at a low cost.  This difficulty is aggravated if I factor in the large feeder cable for the subpanel--I don't mind a separate conduit for it, but because of details of the situation that I won't get into here, a single solution would be nicest.
So an idea I've just had is to build a long narrow wooden box along the base of the wall where I'd like to run the wires.  I've picked up a notion that wires and cables outside of conduit can be permissible in spaces such as a garage, but that code does require that the wires not be located where they could easily be damaged.  So this box would be a solution for running the wires as if outside of a conduit, but also protected.  I would use conduit to protect short  runs outside the box (such as for the outlets and for the feeder wire to the subpanel).  I could either build the box on the surface of the drywall, or cut out the drywall and give the box access to the (insulated) stud bays (I just worry if that would bring code sections to do with framing and fire brakes into play).  I would make the cross dimensions of the box large enough to accommodate all the outlet wires, the ground wire, and the 6/4 feeder wire all at once.  I could unscrew the front of the box for working with the wires, but otherwise it would remain secured.  I would secure the wires inside at regular intervals, essentially as though they were inside walls, just without studs and corners in the way.
So, my question is:  Can anyone foresee points of applicable electrical codes that this would violate?  Aside from the letter of the code, can you foresee safety issues with this solution?


texts: I just replaced a light switch, how can I make sure it's safe?

texts:
I just replaced my dimmer switches with Insteon switches. Everything works, and I believe all the connections, etc. are correct. My box did not have a ground wire, so I was told that as long as the ground wire is touching the metal box, then it's ok. What else can I do to make sure everything is safe? I have a multimeter.

I tried putting my multimeter in continuity mode and touched the two screws and it said it was a short, but I think that makes sense, right?


texts: Old house with double-glazed replacement window. I had to have one of the glass panes replaced and was able to easily tilt in the window and remove the lower unit.  Upon replacement, the window goes right in, I cannot slide it down and when I slide it up, it pulls out of the support springs in both tracks.  I feel as though something is holding the spring in the current position. As if it is locked there. What am I missing?


texts: Hanging something from an indoor window frame (drywall)

texts:
I have a pic that I want to hang up in an indented window frame (on the ceiling) so that the hook is at the bottom and I can hang the item from the hook.

I keep on running into drywall all over the top window area which just creates holes.  I can't seem to find any studs for the one screw, so what do I put there to hold the item firmly (it is not too heavy).

I've seen pics of the drywall hooks but by looking at them can't figure out how I would get it in there.  I could hang it from the side walls, but it seems much to complicated to do that as it's made to hang from one chain in the middle!

Are those other things easy to install?


texts: Wanting to insulate attic in 1930s home, have some questions (baffle install, soffit venting, mixing cellulose/fiberglass, etc)

texts:
Have a 1930's 2-story house. I recently upgraded the wiring in the 2nd story to get rid of all the knob/tube left in the house, and I figured while I'm up there I should add some attic insulation (this was one of the main upgrades recommended during my home inspection prior to purchasing). Attic is about 600sqft. Ceiling is lath/plaster, there is currently two ~3" layers of fiberglass batt insulation, and then about 10" of blow-in cellulose insulation, estimated r-value was about r-20 by the inspector, I'd like to get that up to r-60ish. Last winter I did have some ice damming on the roof but nothing major, and no moisture issues that were observed (attic or outer walls in the 2nd floor).

I just had a few questions as I'm thinking I need to add some soffit venting:

I believe I don't have any soffit vents, at least it doesn't seem like it. There are six vents near the top of the ceiling, no ridge venting, and two old and small baffle vents on the gable walls. Attached is a picture of my soffit, and the rooms are built along the roof for the first 4 feet. If I want to add soffit vents, is it as simple as cutting holes and screwing on the vent covers from the outside? If I'm doing this, how many vents should I install?
Once I install the soffit venting, I'm a bit confused as to how to install baffles to ensure airflow gets to the attic. The rooms are built against the roof for the first 4 feet as I said above, see picture:

And the baffles I found at home depot are only 4' long. It seems like there is insulation stuffed all the way down the rafters to the soffit, so I have to dig that out I assume, add baffles (can you get longer ones?) then reinsulate?

Again, confused about the on the other side of the house. The bathroom is built into a gable (I think that's the right terminology?), so where do I add soffit vents on this side? (sorry, would add another picture but I'm not allowed!)
Is there an alternative to messing around with all these soffit vents? Maybe just a fan that pulls air in through the baffle vents already installed onto the gable walls?
I was planning on patching the holes I put in the lath/plaster ceiling while doing the electrical work and then spray foaming around the junction boxes to seal, is this fine, or is that a fire hazard?
Local home depot only seems to have blow in fiberglass insulation and it's on sale anyways. Is there any issue with mixing cellulose/fiberglass insulation?

Thanks!


texts: GE smart switch neutral power requirement

texts: How many neutral watts are required for most smart switches? I'm unable to get any juice from unit even though there is a neutral wire. I.e. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_aw_lpo_60_bs_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D0MQ8RV3FMBAGS4GNRE1


texts: Our super installed a new faucet and when I tried it it was working just fine, a few hours after I noticed a few drops. I go under the sink and record a video. Below is a picture of the leak and here is the full video:


texts: Handling electrical inside a galvanized pipe gazebo

texts:
I am constructing a gazebo on my flat roof deck out of 2" galvanized metal pipes and joints. I would like to attach a light fixture on one of the upper pipes. Can I pull electrical through the galvanized structure itself treating it as a large conduit? If so, at any point do I need to attach grounding screws or take any other measure to ensure I am following proper electrical practices? I am obtaining power through a plastic conduit protruding out of the roof which will feed directly in through the bottom of one of the riser posts.
Thanks in advance.


texts: Underfloor heating and how R values affect it

texts:
I am moving into a new house that has underfloor heating (wet system) throughout the ground floor.

I am trying to decide what flooring material to use. (tile or wood)

I know that tile will be a better material, as it will allow heat to pass through more easily. My understanding of this is based on the materials R value

But I am wondering how can I calculate, or even roughly know, how a materials R value will affect the heating costs?

For example, given these values, (both 7mm thick)

0.02 -> Ceramic Tile
0.25 -> Engineered Wood

Does this mean tile is ten times faster to "feel" hot?
i.e. if it takes 10mins to heat tile surface to 12C, will it take 100mins for the wooden floor?

Or is R value simply not important or not a good indicator of heating times or potential heating costs?


texts: We had repairs done to the hot tub.  Supposedly it is good to go.  I feel like there's something I should do with the control panel (buttons) in order to heat the water up.  I was able to set the desired temperature using the buttons, I think, but the water never gets warm.  We waited 24 hours before we gave up and turned off the power.  The model is "La Palma" made by Watkins.  The jets seem to work.  I've taken off the panel (cover).  Is there some heater component that should get warm, that I could touch to make sure is working?


texts: How to: Electrical Wiring Distance & Voltage Drop

texts:
Electrical plan shows exterior receptacles on 4 sides of house. House is 250 linear feet.

Considering the voltage drop calculations here:
What is the maximum 12/2 wire length from a 20A breaker to a baseboard heater?

What is the best approach for wiring these 4 exterior receptacles on the same circuit? What about running a 6-2 gauge wire to the center attic in a junction-box, then branching from that using 10-2 to all 4 exterior receptacles? Will that meet NEC code if i drop it in conduit from lintel-level to receptacle box?


texts: I replaced two sockets in my dated pantry pull chain ceiling light. I tried to put it all back together but blew a fuse.  Each new socket has  one white & one black wire, the newly installed pull chain has two black wires. The house wiring is older, no color distinctions there.  Fortunately I tagged the four house wires when I disassembled everything so I know which two belong together.  Can you possibly draw a diagram that I could easily follow to put this back together? Thanks. Location: Chicago, IL, USA


texts: Recently renovated a kitchen, including adding 2 GFI outlets: one by the sink and one on the opposite wall near stove.  City inspector ordered that the one by the sink be removed.  What reason would the city have to require the expense of removing a GFI outlet?


texts: Trying to add a 240V circuit to the breaker box -- is there space?

texts:
I'm trying to add a 240V circuit to my breaker box. It looks as though there are enough "slots" on my breaker (2), but the metal doesn't extend all the way down. Do I have the space to do this?

EDIT: Adding additional pictures as requested.enter image description here

EDIT 2: Picture of the whole breaker box


texts: Consumer unit (electrical panel) in cloakroom allowed?

texts:
Is it OK to have a consumer unit in a downstairs cloakroom off the main entry?
The unit is between basin and toilet, at head level, 50-100cm horizontal distance from the basin. This is how the house was built in 2003.

I am having some changes done, including a consumer unit with more switches, and the electrician says the consumer unit must be moved out, for instance into the entry.

It is obviously not the ideal place, but must have been approved originally. What do the regulations say?


texts: Electrolux washer- motor pulley rotates but drive belt does not move

texts:
The washer on my Electrolux stacked washer and dryer stopped operating.

The drive belt was broken, so I recently replaced the broken drive belt which fixed the agitation cycle.

However when the cycle gets to the spin cycle, I can see the motor pulley spinning/turning, but the drive belt does not move.  This causes a burning rubber smell (as the motor pulley spins against the non moving rubber belt) and eventually a load whinning noise.

This doesn't appear to be a new problem as the tenant was previously complaining of sporadic rubber burning smells and the same whinning noises in the past, so the it appears the spin cycle was sometimes working and sometimes not in the past.

Would this be indicative of some loose part?

Any suggestions, diagnosis or help on whether this can be a simple DIY and if it should be a service call would be greatly appreciated.


texts: How do I remove the rest of this lever-style door handle?

texts:
I'm trying to remove an old lever-style door handle (with no visible screws) that had a missing latch so was already non-functional. Following online tutorials on how to remove door handles and doorknobs with no visible screws, I made a bunch of progress (even got the plate off, revealing two screws beneath, which I also removed) but cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to remove the rest of the remaining structure.

Photos from different angles (both inside and outside) available here: https://imgur.com/a/2J70dMm

I suspect there's some kind of mechanism that I need to press/engage which will allow me to pull these remaining cylinders and the remaining inner-plate (?) out.

Thanks for your guidance!


texts: How much upkeep for portable Tri-Fuel generators

texts:
A PM site says whole house generators need considerable upkeep:
"After 24 to 48 hours of continuous use, get it serviced, installer ... says. After around 10 days, have a professional change the oil and the filter."
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/a8523/should-you-buy-a-standby-generator-14880060/

My question is: Do portable tri-fuel generators require similarly frequent upkeep?


texts: Are these drywall blisters normal settling, or is there something wrong?

texts:
My house is two-story wood frame construction, built in 1979, with an addition that was put on some time in the (I think late) 1980s.

Recently I have noticed several blisters in the drywall, as shown in the images below. Four of them are on the ceiling in the original part of the house, all right along an interior wall, and four more are on the wall just below the ceiling in the addition (the wall they are next to used to be the exterior wall of the house). Their sizes range from 0.5 to 1.5 inches.

In the image below, the black box is the house and the blue box is the addition. The red dots indicate approximate locations of ceiling blisters, and the green dots indicate approximate locations of wall blisters.

Here are some pictures of what they look like:

On the ceiling, taken from the side:

On the ceiling, taken from below:

On the wall:

A few of them are much less well-defined than those pictures, almost just bumps in the wall/ceiling. I tried to get pictures of those too, but I couldn't get anything good enough to be able to tell what you are looking at.

What are these bumps? Are they a problem?


texts: Fresh Air Vent to run only when system is on

texts:
An unusual problem for sure and my HVAC contractor (or anyone else in the business) has not been able to figure out a solution. I thought I would reach out to a larger group of experts that may know a bit more.
Simple goal: to have the fresh air intake be turned on ONLY when the AC/Heat/Fan modes are engaged. NOT a preset time per hour, and NOT run the fan to make up time that the system was not running. Very simply, when the HVAC fan is running, the fresh air damper opens.
Currently using a the April Aire controller/damper connected from an outside air source to the return plenum. A Lennox Pure Air system with the 20x25x5 carbon Marv16 filter was also included in the new HVAC system, as were new ducting.
The reasons for this are a bit more complex, for the outside air in the front of house, especially during the evenings is contaminated from a nearby septic system venting to atmosphere. These noxious chemicals accumulate in concentration at a lower section in the front of our house and infiltrate the home through the window vents, facia board gaps and entry door. Although the attempt of using the fresh air system was to "pressurize" the house, it is clearly insufficient to overcome the leaking of the system in the attic (BTW, that passed the HERS test, and I was told ALL HVAC systems "leak").
The chemical off-gassing has not yet been deemed above legal standards, although the concentrated effect that makes it way into our house makes your nose run, and irritates your throat and lungs. Just uncomfortable to breath. When the evenings were warm, outside the home is just horrible. Without legal council, and lots of $$$$, we are screwed. So it may be just better to resolve the issue through strategic ventilation. Mold testing shows no mold.
By using the fresh air intake ONLY when the system is running, it minimizes the negative pressure caused by the HVAC and reduces the bad air being drawn in. The furnace is an Amana AMES800804BU. The board has connections for an external humidifier (24V) and electronic air cleaner (120v), however after review of the circuit, it would appear these are always on connections and not on when the system fan is running. Connecting a relay to the FAN call from the thermostat will work for fan mode, but will do nothing for AC or HEAT where the fan runs at a different speed.
I have several decades of experience with mechanical engineering and machine design.
Thank you.


texts: Why does the water pressure in my boiler go up so high?

texts: The problem I have is with the pressure dial on the tank in bathroom. I was told that both needles should be at about 1.5, but the red needle rises up and then we have madly banging pipes, and rattling, and even when we release the small taps on the pipes, it can take a while to lower the needles to level. Also, this always trips the boiler out. Is it because it is very cold? We have had this system for about 2 years, and the problem is only intermittent.


texts:
How do I determine if I need to use a manufacturer's fan switch or if I can use an off-the-shelf fan switch?

E.g. I would like to buy an Emerson Loft fan and Emerson Curva fan and control them with Lagrange Adorne paddle fan controls.


texts: Do these materials typically contain asbestos?

texts:
Update

I tested samples at a local asbestos certified lab and all came back 100% clear of asbestos. Thank you all for your advice.

I’m new here and a new home owner. Just purchased a condo in a two family unit. The condo was converted in 2005 and the home was build in 1923.

As I’ve been cleaning up and doing odds and ends and I've noticed some things that need to be cared for. Two of these places however I am questioning whether to leave it alone and get it tested for asbestos.

The first is my chimney portion that is inside my attic. It looks like the mortar is starting to decay and fall on the floor. I will need a chimney company in here at some point but until then I was about to sweep it up but figured I would leave it alone. Could the chimney mortar contain asbestos?

The second questionable place in my home is the basement. The ceiling has plaster. In one part of the basement the ceiling is soft and needs some repair. However, before I call someone in and they rip it down I was wondering about asbestos in this material.

I included photos of the chimney and the ceiling. I did not include the sagging part but did include where there are current holes for better viewing.

Any advice would be appreciated. With two little kids just don’t want to be careless.

Thanks in advance,

Jamerica

Thank you so much to those who responded. Much appreciated.

As for the asbestos report,I don’t think my state had one. They do however have a lead report.

I will definitely just send to a lab to be on the safe side.

Thanks again.

————————-

Thanks all. I think I’ll test both areas. So long as
I spray, anyone see a reason why I should call a company to test? And if not, does  anyone see a reason to go to the extremes of this person?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KaCjB3VaV6g

Thanks!


texts: I want to mount an alarm motion sensor in the corner of a room - what do I need to know?

texts:
I have an alarm system that I'm going to fit myself, the motion sensors will be mounted in the corner of the rooms - presumably as the screws are relatively short (maybe a 1 to 1.5 inch long) this is a worry-free exercise and things like wires will generally not be an issue?

It's a new build property in the United Kingdom if that matters, thank you.


texts: Ceiling fan & light installation - can't get wiring right

texts:
I recently purchased and installed a Quorum 70443-14 fan with light.
This model has no pull chains, and is operated by an in-wall "remote" that is hard-wired and not removable.

The wall switch (that was included with the fan) looks like this unit: http://img1.wfrcdn.com/docresources/604/11/116905.pdf

The ceiling box has five wires coming out of it, two white, one gray, one black and one green/bare (ground).  The black and gray were connected to the black & blue leads from the old pull-chain fan & light I removed.  The two white I am not sure, at least one was connected to the old fan white lead, but I'm not sure about the second, it may have come loose when I moved the fan, but it was not capped off. The black and one of the whites appear to be a slightly smaller gauge wire. The gray may just be a really old black.

Attached is a picture of the old mount before I installed the new, but you can see all of the aforementioned wires.

I connected the two house blacks to the black of the fan unit, and connected the two whites to the white of the fan unit, and of course the ground to the bracket. I used wire caps and tucked carefully into the canopy of the new fan while installing.

In the wall switch box, there are two switches, the left switch I assumed was for the fan but never used as it did not seem to do anything. My wife claims it would work the light, but I had the fan dismantled before realizing I may need to know that. (oops).

The right switch in the wall box controls a separate in-ceiling light in the room and in the hallway below.

For the left switch, there is a bare wire (ground) a white and a gray. Unfortunately the new fan control unit has a green (ground) and two blacks, one says TO FAN and the other says TO POWER.

Here is the way I have wired the switch:

I have tried two wiring setups in the ceiling junction:

Method 1:
Ceiling gray and black connected to fan black. Both whites to fan white.
This worked at first to turn on the light and fan at a single speed, but became unresponsive to further commands.

Method 2:
Capped off separately the smaller gauge black and white in the ceiling, and put the ceiling gray to fan black, and white to fan white.
Unfortunately, this resulted in no activity at the fan after restoring power and trying the switch.

I am out of ideas at this point.

Attached is a picture of the electrical connection guide in the manufacturer's instructions. The receiver unit in the fan canopy came pre-connected and mounted.


texts: How can I level a floor with uneven joists?

texts:
Ripping up 3/4" particle board underlayment over 1/2" plywood subfloor. Running with the joists the floor is flat and level. But running perpendicular to the joists I have high spots every six to seven feet creating a sway of 2 to 3 eighths at its lowest point.

My question is, to level or more importantly flatten the floor, can I lay shingles and 30lb felt the length of the low spots, then screw down 3/4" ply on top in prep for vinyl plank flooring?


texts: Is a divided wireway or auxiliary gutter considered one wireway/gutter or two for derate purposes?

texts:
A common accessory with auxiliary gutters or wireways is a divider that extends the length of the gutter/wireway and creates two wiring compartments instead of one.  This is more commonly used to separate service conductors from branch/feeder conductors or low voltage conductors from line voltage conductors, but can be used between two sets of branch/feeder conductors as well.

When a divider is used between two sets of branch/feeder conductors though, does the 30 conductor limit on the 310.15(B)(3)(a) derate exception (376.22(B), 366.22(A)) apply to each subdivided compartment within the wireway/gutter, or to the wireway/gutter as a whole?


texts: How should I insulate the ceiling between floors in a ski cabin?

texts:
I have a small ski cabin in upstate New York (cold climate) that we only visit on weekends. It is heated by a wood stove. During winter we had many problems with bursting water pipes so they are now all replaced with rubber except in the bathroom upstairs where I also have my water tank. The bathroom walls and the ceiling are well insulated but not the floor underneath which is only double 3/4 inch sheathing.

During the week the temperature in the bathroom is kept above the freezing point by a small electric heater controlled by a thermostat. I was planning to staple or nail solid foam insulation between the floor joists underneath the bathroom only to save on electricity when I stumbled on this site and the subject of vapor barriers.

Do I need one and if so, on what side of the 1" styrofoam insulation (pink stuff)?  There is no ceiling drywall underneath, only suspended ceiling panels. So you now see that my cold side of the insulation will be toward the living room below during the week and to a lesser degree toward the floor above during the winter weekends.

My intuition tells me that I should not be using any barrier at all. Am I correct?


texts: Remove plastic film from the outside of a metal door?

texts:
I forgot to remove the plastic protective film from the outside of a metal door. The door is white prime/painted. I was able to remove the film from the inside of the door, but the outside is baked on and cracked. I have tried using a metal paint scraper, but the plastic is very resistant to that. I have tried soaking it in water, spraying JigALoo, and now GoofOff.

Should I try ammonia or a citrus cleaner or something else?


texts: How to set up home network w/ fiber from street & unterminated Cat5e in garage

texts:
I'm having gigabit Sonic Fiber installed soon in a newly purchased, remodeled house, and I need to figure out how best to configure my networking setup to distribute a wired (& wireless) connection throughout the house.

House has individual Cat5e jacks in several rooms (over 3 levels)
All the cable runs appear to end in the garage, coiled up unterminated in a white box
Fiber install location TBD, but probably into garage, near my unterminated cat5e cables
Previous owner had cable internet, which came into an interior (house) closet via Coax and was distributed wirelessly; same closet has a single Cat5e jack (leading to garage, I presume)

I need to prep cables & get the right equipment so that it's ready to test/use when the fiber installer comes, so I'd love any & all advice/suggestions on the best way to set up my network.

What I want to end up with:

Wired connections to all the rooms with jacks
Ability to connect multiple wired devices in some rooms (via switch plugged into wall?)
Wifi throughout house (3 levels), ideally via hard-wired routers in bridge mode
I do NOT want to use the wifi capability of the Sonic-provided gateway/modem (not least because it won't be powerful enough for the whole house from the garage). I want to use my own wifi devices (likely wired Eeros, unless you have a better suggestion)

My tentative plan:

Fiber drop to transition box to ONT in garage
ONT to Gateway (modem) in garage
Gateway(modem) to Eero (or other router??) - in garage
Eero (router) to Switch (garage)
Terminate & plug cat5e cables into Switch (garage)

In theory this should distribute wired connections to each jack in house, and I can attach additional Eeros and switches to jacks in the house to distribute further.

Questions:

I'm not a fan of putting all of my networking equipment (ONT, gateway, router, switch) in the garage. I'd prefer to have most (if not all) in the house, but I can't think of a way to get a wired connection inside and then back out again to all the cables dangling in the garage.
Does it even matter if I have all my networking equipment in an (insulated) garage? What's the best way to enclose/protect it?
Any suggested improvements or modifications to my plan above? (see attached diagram for tentative plan)

Thanks a million.


texts: Convert line voltage heating system to use low voltage thermostats

texts: I currently have two line voltage ceiling radiant heating systems in my condo each with their own DPST thermostat. I'd like to use low voltage thermostats such as the nest. I found this transformer/relay, but it only has 3 wires. Will this work with a system designed to use DPST thermostats? If not, is there something else out there that will allow me to use low voltage thermostats with line voltage heaters?


texts:
One of our many projects last year was to replace our back exterior door.  It is in a converted porch, unfortunately, which means it's an odd size.

Specifically, it's 75-76" x 30".  Unfortunately, none of that is negotiable - more than 30" and the door opens over the steps to the basement, and more than 76" and the jamb would be cutting into the structural supports.  It's also not straight, because the porch has a bit of a lean to it.

Last year, we bought one of these, a 30x80 composite wood door, from Home Depot.  We cut it down to the requisite size - managed to do a decent job of that, amazingly - and installed it.

Unfortunately, despite being an "exterior" door, the wood started peeling almost immediately.  This is Northern Illinois, so a bit harder on doors than warmer locations, I suspect.

The question is, what options do we have here? What's our best bet to get something that will last at least a few years?  I suspect eventually we'll take out the porch and make improvements to extend the whole house back some - our house is the shortest in the neighborhood in terms of how much of the lot is used by the house itself - but that's 5-10 years down the road at least.

Buy another slab, cut it down again, and try better finishing options.
Buy a steel slab, like this one, and cut it down - but can you cut a steel door like that?
Find an all-hardwood slab door that can be cut down (do these exist?)
Something else?

Is there a "best" approach here that doesn't involve a few grand for a custom door?  Is that the only real solution to this kind of problem that won't need replacement every year or two?


texts: How can I make sure that the ledger board supports for a floor are level?

texts:
I am building a floor and the first step is attaching ledger boards to  existing studs around the perimeter of the room. The joists are JITs that will then be put in hangers attached to the ledger boards.
.
The problem is that it is essential that the ledger boards be perfectly flat and parallel with each other, otherwise the joists will not be level. The dimensions of the room are 23' x 17'.

How can I ensure that the tops of the ledger boards are flat and level with each other?


texts: How to add a C wire to an old Lennox system

texts:
I'm trying to utilize a spare wire as my C wire for my new thermostat. A lot of what I've read online assumes you have these simple, lettered terminals in your furnace. However, that's not the case in my system.

Here's the previous wiring:

I noticed a spare couple of wires in the conduit, so I looked inside the furnace and found the yellow one I'd like to make my C wire:

Here's the inside of the system. No nice, user-friendly terminal screws, just a bunch of wire nuts!

Here's the schematic.

It's so old it obviously doesn't reference a c wire, but I'm wondering if it's possible for this system. I tried joining into wire nut with the G (green) wire, because apparently that's an alternative power source for C. However, when I tried that, the thermostat would power on at first, but it seemed when the fan tried to turn on, the system would trip and the thermostat would lose power altogether.


texts: There are some green gunk near my shut off valves and my sink faucet. Do you think my water warrants for health concerns?

texts: I noticed some green gunk near the warm and cold water shut off valves and the sink faucet. Does the condition of my water warrant for health concerns?


texts: There is a brown burn mark on my dryer's vent

texts: . Is this normal or do we need to unplug the dryer and run?


texts: What is involved in replacing leaking iron drain pipes in a house with a concrete foundation?

texts:
I noticed cracks in the walls getting larger and called someone to check on the foundation. The foundation is fine (it's previously been repaired) but the center of the house is sinking. I plugged the outside drain line and did a leak test, and the water level in the shower drain dropped pretty quickly, so I'm pretty sure there is a leak.

My house was built in the 60s and I'm told it should have iron drain pipes. I assume the problem is a pipe running through the foundation to the outside sewer line. What is going to be involved in replacing the drain pipes? Am I going to have to tear up the floors all over my house to get all of them?

EDIT: I should add that this is Texas, so I don't have a basement.


texts: Are there motion light sensors available for multi-gang switches?

texts:
I suspect this is not available but I have rooms and bathrooms, all of which are multi-gang.  2 plus switches per plate.  Are there slim line automatic switches for these configurations?

Kids are driving me crazy leaving lights on and want to do this but can't find anything but single switch options.


texts: I'm in the process of finishing my basement. Added rocksaul to the ceiling and you can still hear everything in the basement through the vents. How do you soundproof a vent in a basement so that the sound doesn't go through the vents. While still allowing air to go through and heat the house?


texts: Should I synchronize programmable dual zone thermostats to come on at the same time?

texts: I have two zones in my house and both have programmable thermostats. The temp in the house is set to 18 degrees while I am at work all day, and when I return it is programmed to 21 degrees. When I return home should I program both thermostats to come on at the same time since the furnace is on anyway for one thermostat.


texts: Recommendations for particular brand/models of shower enclosures?

texts:
We have a partially finished basement. Our unfinished laundry had a toilet and sink in the corner. Both are ancient and we're going to replace them. Still, they're in the corner of our laundry room, so I was going to build some form of half/wall stall, fix the floor and...

...well then I realized I maybe should just go all-in and actually make it a proper enclosed bath. The question now is do we keep it a half bath or go for a 3/4 by adding a shower. It's in the basement, but given the location of the current main drain, it looks like I could easily add a shower on an 8" platform and still have plenty of slope for a proper drain without having to tear up the concrete.

Shower surrounds seem to come in 100 different models and manufacturers. Many are cheaply made. The question I have is: in general, are there particular brands/models/types I should avoid and or focus on? I'm looking for relatively small (probably 3' x 3' at the largest). A multi-piece would probably be a necessity given that this has to get into our basement.


texts: Can I use 8x16 tiles on shower walls that measure 39.5" by 35.5" by 39.5"?

texts:
I made the mistake of putting 2" x 2" tiles on my shower floor of a tile that is hard to match. This being my first tile job, I didn't plan properly.

Finally, I've found the floor/wall tile from the same series, but it's at a store 1.5 hours from my home in NYC(I'll make the trip if I can use them).

Yet they only have them in tile in sizes of 8x16 and 8x32, and the bullnose tiles, too. Problem is the widths of my shower walls are 39.5" by 35.5" by 39.5". Is there any way I could arrange those tiles on the walls so they would look ok? Or can I cut them into 8x8 tiles and then put them on the walls. The manufacturer says it's a "porcelain tile that looks like marble."

The tile is: Gardenia Orchidea Varenna beige.

Thanks!
Joe


texts: What's the difference between SFA99 and RIBA Agreements 2010 in the UK?

texts:
I am starting the process of having an extension on my house, and getting close to signing an agreement with an architect to have drawings done.

The architect would like to use SFA99 as the contract between us, however a cursory Google suggests that RIBA 2010 supersedes it. I can't compare the difference between the two as the documents are locked behind paywalls.

Should I care? What's the difference?


texts:
I have installed a 3 piece plastic shower wall liner and the two vertical seams require caulk.  I've caulked them with GE Silicon II bath and shower caulk multiple times but it always pulls away from the plastic after a short time (1-3 months) leaving a crack between the plastic and the caulk.

I have a theory that it's either a change in temperature causing the walls to expand (the walls get really cold in the winter, but heat up when a shower is taken), or that the plastic is really smooth and doesn't get a good 'stick' to to caulk, ..or obviously something else.

How can I caulk these seams so that it doesn't pull away from the plastic?


texts: Can I use a copper sleeve around a galvanized pipe?

texts: For a bird feeder project I want to have an adjustable, sliding metal sleeve fit snugly over a galvanized pole (7’). Will a 3/4” L-type copper pipe fit over a 1” galvanized pipe? From online chart, the copper I.D. should be 1.025” and the steel pipe O.D., 1”. The outer copper sleeve would be about 2’ long. Would the copper pipe actually fit and be movable or is the fit too tight? I’ve read elsewhere on SE suggesting steel/steel alternatives with set-screws but I’ prefer something closer to this if possible. Thanks!


texts: Proceed with wiring replacement ceiling light in bathroom after finding how it's rigged?

texts:
New to switching out light fittings as of Wednesday; fitted a couple since then, isolating the supply at the consumer unit and double-checking the wires are no longer live using a contactless voltage checker.

Came to change the ceiling rose bulb fitting in our en-suite – which is already a warning sign as clearly not code compliant?! – and found the wiring a bit odd.

There are two grey cable feeds. I assume this is due to the fitting being on a loop, but I realise that the extractor fan in the bathroom is driven off the same light switch, so perhaps that's one of them?

Both earths connect to an earth terminal on the light fitting.

The neutral connects to the neutral for the bulb fitting (which is a brown wire, thanks to whatever genius rigged this). There is only one neutral and at time of writing I haven't made a note of which cable it emerges from...

Both live fittings connect to 'flex live' on the rose, stuffed into one terminal. The live for the lightbulb fitting is screwed into the other terminal.

My new light fitting has an enclosed plastic box within which there are screw terminals for live, earth and neutral.

Should I replicate the ceiling rose's existing wiring into the new fitting? E.g fit both live to live terminal, both earth to earth terminal, and single neutral to neutral terminal? Or is this existing setup as sketchy as it looks?

Diagram (sorry...):


texts: A question on how to get the proper slope in a drain.  Let's say you have two section of drain line that must be plumb to each other. To connect these lines by code a 1/4" down slope is needed per foot.  The two section are 8' apart so they need to have a 2" slope end to end.   Fittings are made with the ports square to each other. The port on a 90 degrees elbow is 90 degrees apart. To me, that means the pipe has to exit or enter the fitting at 0 degrees difference to each other.  But, because of the slope there is no way the the connecting pipe can enter or exit the port square and bottom out. They don't make 95 or 100 degree fittings?


texts: Can I "flip" a light switch (top/bottom position)

texts:
I have a Decora 3 way switch, on the metal part it clearly label one side as the top.  It is installed correctly right now.

So right now, if both switches are on the "off" (down) position, the light is on.  Functionally there is nothing wrong about it, but the positioning just looks weird to me.  Can I just flip the switch myself (as in, keep all the wire in place, and simply rotate the switch by 180 degree)?  I don't know if switch must be install according to the "top" position.


texts: Removing old rock hard adhesive from concrete floor

texts: i have removed the old ceramic tile that was put down on top of linoleum. It came up easier because of that but I now am being told that the old rock hard glue or backing has to come up. I have tried everything that people have suggested but no luck. Not even a few inches after an hour. Its like its part of the concrete. If it is that hard do I really need to remove it?.. Frustrated .


texts: How to attach cables to ceiling using curved nails or hooks

texts:
I wanted to use this trunking for the cables (power + hdmi) coming out of my ceiling mounted projector. But I'm renting and the ceiling is covered with... wallpaper. So I'm afraid of damaging the wallpaper the day I move.

I'm thinking about a safer solution: some sort of hooks or curved nails supporting the cables, located every 20cm or so along a line from my projector. Are there any kind of nails that could do the trick?


texts:
I'm looking to install a sliding closet door in my office. The height of my doorway is 100 inches but the only standard sliding door I was able to find was 96 inch. Theres a 1-2 inch adjustment but its still too short by 2 inches.
I'd like to get some suggestions on how I can make this work?
Thank you for your help!


texts: Toilet is running but the flapper is clean and intact

texts:
I have a toilet that is running, probably once every ten to fifteen minutes.  I hear a quiet dripping sound within the tank.  I understand that the most common problem associated with these events is a flapper that needs cleaning or replacement.  Mine is pretty new and looks clean.  I've now just cleaned it again.  I've shut off the water to the tank.  After I flushed, only a small amount of water remains at the base of the tank, and I'm still hear the dripping sound.

I'm not sure what the piece is called, but should I perhaps be caulking around the piece that the flapper inserts into?  Or maybe I'll just replace the flapper again?

I appreciate any help anyone can offer,

Alex


texts: Plumbing a 60inch double vanity with one or two p traps

texts: Here is my layout. I have one drain on the right side of the vanity coming through the floor. If I come up to TEE WYE Going to The left sink with a pipe run that is 40 inches hooking to a p-trap then to The sink drain. For the right side drain, I would add another TEE WYE on top of the other one with a p-trap hooking to the right side, and on top of the TEE WYE would be a siphon valve would this cause issues? I have pictures of my set up not sure how to post them any help would be appreciated


texts: I just finished building a new home and as part of the Energy Star rating transfer grilles were installed above each of the bedroom doors to allow air exchange when the doors are closed.  The problem is that sound (and a small amount of light) pass freely through the vents negating all privacy of closing the door.  I've read that I should install a baffle into the vents to allow air to pass through but deaden sound.  I can't find any details for where I can buy this or what kind of materials I can use to construct it.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: I can see the concrete blocks inside the house through the paintwork

texts: in the lounge, I can see the outline of the concrete blocks behind the paintwork. Is this normal?


texts:
I don't exactly know how or why, but seems my house is starting to get more of these things - springtails.

I've checked all over the internet, and it says there is too much moisture, however, they are living in areas between the concrete outside and the bricks. Is there a chemical I can pour/ or something I can use so this little critters will stop bugging me!!


texts: Dishwasher supply line leaking when attached to unit

texts:
I'm attempting to install a new dishwasher, a Bosch 500 series. The water supply line itself is fine, as in there are no leaks along the line itself. However, I can't get the connection to the dishwasher itself to play nice.

I've given it a handful of attempts myself at varying levels of tightness, all leaking the moment I turn the water back on. My attempts were just with the bare connection, without the teflon tape in the pictures.

I had a handyman help me out, and he used teflon tape and also put an extra rubber ring on the inside of the elbow joint. That was stable with the water turned back on, but later when I tried to actually run the cycle the supply line burst clean off the unit.

What should I do from here? Get a new elbow joint? Is it a threading issue? I really hope I haven't somehow permanently damaged the connection to the unit?


texts: Why is this dormer flashing causing a leak?

texts: This roof was repaired about 6 years ago and is now slowly leaking when there is a heavy downpour.  The leak is located close to the center point in between the outer wall and the dormer.  It is directly underneath the right hand side edge of the dormer flashing shown below.  I'm pretty sure it wasn't properly installed because there is a smaller leak next to the other dormer which doesn't get hit by the rain as hard.  How should this be fixed?  Is there a short-term laymen-friendly solution to prevent further damage?  Thanks.


texts: Could this S trap be causing sewer gas odor and drain backup?

texts: My apartment has been reeking with a foul odor for a while now. It seems to kind of vacillate between smelling like something died to smelling like a sewer. I'm about to approach my landlord about it but in trying to understand the nature of the problem i was reading about S Traps and how because of their design they could allow sewer gases to flow into a building. I also read that because of this issue they are illegal. This S Trap is in my kitchen where most of the odors seem to be coming from and my kitchen is directly behind my bathroom. As there are other plumbing problems occurring simultaneously, like dirty water flowing back into my bathtub, i'm wondering if this S Trap could be a part of the overall problem?


texts:
I recently discovered a fairly large (a few hundred wasps, from the look of it) wasp-nest under the eaves on the side of my house.

Anyways, I called a exterminator (Terminix, actually), and they tried to push a year-long maintenance contract on me, and claimed that wasps leave pheremones, and if you don't continually kill them off, they will keep coming back.

In my own research, there is no note of this particular wasp behaviour on wikipedia, and I have actually found a lot of insect-control websites that specifically say wasps don't nest in the same place every year. This makes me think that Terminix may be stringing me along a bit.

Has anyone heard this claim "they will return unless you kill them off repeatedly" statement before, or is it likely that I can deal with it myself with a can of wasp-killer spray?


texts:
I installed a shower valve
I installed a custom mortar shower pan  (pvc liner with plastic vapor barrier behind the walls)
I installed cement boards on the wall

the area on the front of the cement board around the shower valve, a diagonal line (as if water was dripping down) going to floor and a larger area of the mortar pan in front of the drain are mysteriously wet. When I removed the cement board the back of the cement board was dry (however in between the pvc liner and the plastic was wet also some of the studs were moist) all the copper pipe, joints, and shower valve appear to be dry.

What is causing the moisture? can it be evaporation from the drain? condensation?

What can I do to fix this?


texts: Hanging a new shed door on a frame that is not level

texts:
I have moved into a house that has an old shed without a door. I have just bought a tongue and groove, braced and ledged door and primed and painted it. I'm looking to install it.

I have 3 issues:

The frame (and therefore the shed I guess) is not level. a) Should I ignore this and hang the door level? b) or try and hang to the level of the frame?
The door is 76.3cm wide while the opening is 78.5cm. a) Will the door look odd with an 11mm gap on each side? b) what would be the ideal gap? c) Should I leave a smaller gap (5/6/7mm) hinge side and pack out the frame on the other side to match? d) is the gap I should leave dictated by the thickness of the hinge/ distance between the flat hinge and screw holes or do you just leave a bit if hinge overlapping the door to increase the gap?
I would rather have the hinges on the right as the light switch is on the left. Does it matter that the braces perhaps suggest I hang it from the left?

Thanks!


texts:
Folks, I am having problems connecting my Nest thermostat to a boiler.
Given Laars Mini-term JVS series with Temperature Control PCB Module (pictured below)

When I short Com call and Heat call wires the boiler starts working. Being a naive person I would expect to detect 24v AC, however my multi-meter shows only 2.6v which is not enough. I have only 2 wires running from this controller to a thermostat.

Question 1: How do I connect my thermostat to something that does have standard R,C, W1, W2, etc. terminal?

Question 2: Is it possible to supply required voltage via these 2 wire to power off the thermostat and without damaging the controller (additional gadgetry is OK)

Question 3: Looking carefully in the middle of the PCB controller legend shows "hopeful" R,C,W2,W1 PCB connector which must be on the opposite side of the device. It is not easy to reach and therefor can't be a standard interface to the controller. Am I correct?

I found one solution that I don't like but it will probably work.


texts: How do Price Fister Shower faucet works internally (the ones that use the 974-291 cartridge and 971-250 stem)?

texts:
I opened up my shower valve and tried to repair it.

I was marveling at the mechanism -- especially because I could not make head or tail on how it would work.


texts: So for Christmas I got my wife a king size heated blanket.  She absolutely loved it.  Unfortunately a two weeks ago we also got a new dog and it started using the cord as a chew toy.  What would be the best way to repair this connection? Ideally I would like to cut all four wires and reconnect them but I am not sure what voltage they are carrying.  The wires appear to be 16-18 awg if that helps


texts: Is it possible to create a drywall ceiling around pipes?

texts: I have a basement which I want to soundproof using drywall but I have a problem with some pipes in the ceiling that run around the corners. I want to maximize the space in the room after soundproofing so I wanted to know if it is possible to do something like this. (please see image, the circles are the pipes in the corners)


texts: Need advice on how to wire a switch outlet combo with two hot wires

texts: So my situation is that I have a switch which controls an outlet. I want to wire in a switch outlet combo to still control that outlet with the switch, but also have constant power to the outlet on the combo receptacle. The issue is that there are only to hot wires in the box. The grounds are wire nutted together, one hot line is independent, and the other is wire nutted to two other hot lines. I have tried every possible combination that I can think of. The switch still works as before but I cannot get power to the outlet on the combo receptacle. How can I wire this so I can get the desired outcome?


texts: How can I repair crumbling bathroom tile grout?

texts: The grout on my floor in the ensuite has started to crumble, Dose anyone know the best product for repairing the damaged patches. I don't want to pull it all up and re-tile.


texts: flow of water through a one inch id inlet pipe through a half inch water meter

texts:
Our inlet pipe of water supply from municipality is half inch id
The water passes through a water meter having half inch connection.
If we increase the diameter of the inlet pipe to one inch id and retain the same half inch meter, would it result in more supply of water at the outlet, or would it create a bottle neck


texts: Not so visible in photos because of the way the sun hits the roof but very visible by naked eye. Enough for my neighbors to stop by to ask me what's wrong.  I had the new roof installed 2 weeks ago and the dipping effect was visible from first day.  I spoke to the company that installed the roof and after sending over one of their production managers the told me that the job was done correct but my plywood under the shingles has buckled.  I told them as we signed the contract that any damaged plywood can be replaced at my cost, but they say the plywood was not damaged only warped.  The house is 16 years old. I have labor warranty with company.  What should I do?


texts:
I got a brand new air conditioning unit installed (Mitsubishi MSZ GL60 VGD) about a week ago. We've only used it a handful of times and it worked fine.

However, today I went to turn it on and it didn't respond. Neither input from the remote or button on the condenser worked. The remote's batteries are fine, there are no tripped switches and the power switch is on.

Would anyone know what I could do to trouble shoot this?


texts: Will a toilet flange bolt cause a problem if dropped into the drain pipe?

texts:
I dropped one of the toilet bolts in the drain hole. It's in the basement and set in concrete. I tried to vacuum it out but couldn't.

How serious is this, will it get flushed down or do I need to trace it it a snake camera and pull it out somehow? The pipe turns horizontal right after the elbow in the ground and it's a 4" pipe.

Or can I just leave it?


texts: Honeywell TH6320R1004 Wireless Thermostat with Two Transformers

texts:
I have a Honeywell TH6320R1004 and am trying to set it up to work with a second transformer (just added a Taco ZVC403 to an existing Taco SR503). The second transformer was needed to power the zone valves which was too much for the SR503). I'm hoping someone familiar with these Honeywell thermostats can help out.

The problem I'm having is that I can't get the call for heat from the Honeywell to register with my Taco ZVC.

The Honeywell is set to "2H / 1C heat pump" mode and had been using the Y terminal to call for heat. I reconfigured the R jumpers to split R+Rc from Rh. The Rh is now powered by the new ZVC. The circuit in question is in green in the attached image. Note, the Relay's 1 & 2 terminals are always closed in heat mode. The Relay Coil is energized in cool mode disabling the circuit, and I have the thermostat set to "O/B terminal controls valve in cooling".

I get 24v across the thermostat Rh and Y terminals whether or not heat is being called for. I also get 24v across the ZVC zone terminals.

Is the Y terminal closed with Rh when heat is called for in 2h/1c mode? I've also tried the G terminal (fan) with no luck. Just looking for what Equipment terminal on the thermostat is energized with a call for heat.

Any idea what the problem is? Thanks in advance for your help.

UPDATE
I also removed power to Rh and then tested ohms across Rh and Y and Rh and G when calling for heat. Nothing. I tested across Y and G and found continuity. It made me want to jump Rh and G and see if Y is then energized when there is a call for heat, so I did and IT WORKS - the circuit is energized and the ZVC received a call for heat on the Honeywell zone.

Seems like a crazy workaround, but perhaps I'm not the first to discover this. Now the questions:

What is the right way to do this.

With O/B terminal controls valve in cooling mode, how else can I get the Honeywell to call for heat? There does not seem to be any Equipment terminals on the thermostat which energize on Call for Heat.

When in cooling mode, will Rc (from one transformer) now connect to Rh (the 2nd transformer) via G and create a short? The circuit on Y will be open so nothing should happen on it.
Anything else you can think of?


texts: HE gas furnace replaced bad inducer but no ignition

texts:
I have an approx 20-year old Tempstar (model # NUGK125DK08, manufactured by 'Inter-City Products') 90% eff gas-fired furnace. Yesterday morning we noticed it was blowing only cold air. I opened it up and noticed a faint burning smell and poked around and noticed the inducer motor was hot and was not running when the furnace was switched on. I got the part today and replaced the inducer unit, which is running fine now when the furnace is switched on, but there is no ignition. What to check next?

Edit: @Mazura was right - it was the pressure switch. Note- in my previous comments, I mistakenly thought the heat switch mounted right on the inducer assembly housing was a pressure switch.


texts: Adding light to existing outlet controlled by switch

texts: Power comes into a switch at my house and the wire is connected to an outlet in my garage. The switch controls both plugs. I want to keep this wiring the same, but add a light out in the garage. Can I add wire to the outlet and connect the light that way? Any diagram/suggestions would be helpful.


texts: How can I install gutters where there is no roof overhang, and the walls are concrete block?

texts:
I have a detached garage that has a flat rubber roof that slopes from front to back. There is however no overhang at the back of the garage, and no gutters, so water is running down the concrete block walls.
Question:  What is the best way to install it? Should I get a piece of pressure treated wood and attach that to the block first, and then attach the gutter to the wood?


texts:
I have a Liebherr freezer/wine fridge (SWTNES 3010-25A). After about a year of owning it, the freezer started to "defrost" itself. I would open it up, and it was wet inside. Checking the temperature with a hand held thermometer it would be above freezing, but the door panel would say -25C. After I turned it off and back on, it would refresh the temp and start to freeze again. Started off slow, but now this is a  daily occurance. I've been fighting with the service company over the past year. They replaced the inverter, the white temp probe that is visible on the inside back panel, and the controller board. They won't do anymore nor do any replacement. So far I replaced the fan and fan motor inside (the one that is behind the inside back panel that seems to blow the air from the condenser around the freezer). I'm unsure of what else to replace as most of the parts have been swapped out already. I'm thinking it could be the limiter or the defrosting heating thing, but I'm not sure.

Here is a video showing the issue https://youtu.be/vzMh5Mr6HC0

What I did notice is I can tell when it's not working as I don't hear the ice being made. The ice tray seems to know that it is above a certain temp, but the freezer doesn't (if that makes any sense).


texts: How can I install a regular light fixture where a ceiling fan used to be?

texts:
Removed an old ceiling fan. There was one wall switch that only controlled the lights. The fan portion could be on regardless of wall switch position (by pullchain on the unit).
I'm left with two bundles of black-white-bare 3-wire hanging out of my ceiling (one is labeled "sw", for switch, I assume) The bare ground wires from each bundle were twisted together, but I'm not sure anything else was.

I untwisted the ground wires from each other.

Now, attempting to wire the new fixture, the bundle labeled for the switch won't power the fixture when I wire it up. When I wire the fixture to the other bundle instead, it is just on full time and I can't turn it off.

Recommendations?


texts: How do I install this motion-sensing light switch?

texts:
My existing conventional light switch was connected only to the red (top, painted over somewhat) and black (bottom) wires shown here. I just bought a Lutron motion-sensing switch and its instructions say it requires grounding.

The new switch has a bare wire and a green wire coming out of it for grounding, but I'm not sure what to do with those. I tried leaving the ground wires dangling in the back and merely connecting the red and black wires from the wall to the switch, as was done with the existing switch, but it did not work.

From what I can understand, the wiring coming from the wall is already grounded because it is attached to the electrical box itself in two places (see photo) using a screw. Do I need to unscrew that and attach the new switch's ground wires to that connection point?


texts: Need to unstick stuck shower divider valve

texts:
The shower divider value (which chooses between letting water flow into the tub or up into the shower) is stuck. I can't spin it with the installed plastic handle. Here's some pictures:

With the handle

No handle

From the side

How much force can I apply when trying to spin it?

What can I do to get it loose?


texts: How can I seal a slate floor for long term protection?

texts:
I've recently purchased a house in Philadelphia which has a pretty humid basement split into a finished part, and an unfinished (workshop) part. The finished part has a slate floor that seems in reasonable condition, but it is requires some grouting. In a few places there are loose tiles and a few small parts where a layer from the corner of a slate tile has come off.

I suspect the previous owner may not have a performed any recent maintenance or sealing. I'm probably going to get a specialist, but what should I be looking for in terms of products and approaches to sealing this floor? I'd prefer to keep a more natural look. Given the hot and humid weather here in Philly I suspect I'll need to wait until spring or fall to do this work as the basement is my office space.


texts: Applying PerfectPrimer overlay then epoxy over VOC tile instead of abating/replacing

texts: I found this question on the site but was looking for some more details. I am hoping someone can tell me a little more about the experience with the PerfectPrimer overlay as this was recommended to me as well. Someone replied to a another question said they used Perfect Primer and then used Epoxyplus product and it worked well.  I am hoping that person or someone else who used it can let me know if they found it pretty easy to apply and is your epoxy floor holding up well over it? I really would be great to just cover over my VOC tiles instead of the major expense messy removal/asbestos abatement, this would be such a relief!!


texts:
I have an old large shed I'm trying to get back into shape. The building is about 50 years old and 16'x48'. One of the long sides had sunk in the middle by about a foot, giving that side a bit of a 'V' shape. I've actually jacked this side back to level with a few beams and am trying to figure out how to support it permanently.

The original foundation was a shallow concrete perimeter, about 1' wide by 2' deep, right below the shed walls. There was a single course of cinder blocks placed on top of the concrete, and the walls built on top of these. The concrete seems to be in good enough shape on 3 sides but has completely crumbled on the side with the sunken middle.

My idea is to build a short retaining wall, about 2 feet out from the raised side, to level off the 'V', fill the inside with rubble/gravel, and set the shed back down on it. I feel like the wall could be simple as it doesn't need to hold much back - maybe some PT 6x6s or 6x4s driven a few feet into the ground every 4 feet and then PT 2x8s behind them. Does this seem like it would work? Is there a better way?


texts: Laser printer on same circuit interferes with lights and LCD monitors

texts:
I have a newly built 110V 20A basement office wired with 12/2 with eight T8 bulbs overhead, 850 watt PC, three LED monitors and a big Canon MF8380Cdw laser printer on the same aforementioned 20 amp circuit.  Whenever the printer comes out of power saving, the lights all flicker and one or two monitors power off and back on trigger my PC to consolidate all of my windows on one monitor.

I am planning to add some additional home theater equipment to the office but I'm concerned by the laser printer interrupting it or worse, damaging it.

Is there any solutions to mitigate the power draw of the printer without adding another circuit or expensive voltage conditioning equipment?

Update 2:

Power box is #1, then to light switch on to first outlet at #2, printer is at #3 and computer equipment is at #4.  Wire from box to first outlet is approximately 32'  Room is 18' x 11'.

Update 1:
A lot of answers are warning against a UPS on the printer.  I do not utilize a UPS at all at the moment.  And when I do purchase one, I do not plan to feed the laser printer from it for obvious reasons.  My power is otherwise very stable from a new square D box (in 2002-ish) and the meter and the lines feeding my house have been recently updated by the power company.

I've read in the reviews of this Automatic Voltage Regulator that people have used it for their laser printer to solve the brown outs.  This would be cheaper than rewiring the office but obviously not solve for the lights.  And this is a 10A device.

Per the pg17 of MF8380Cdw Printer Manual, the power supply requirements are
120 to 127 V, 60 Hz, 1,200 W or less


texts: How to secure a top heavy tall iron headboard

texts:
I have an iron headboard that is 80 inches tall in the center.  It's very top heavy - and just plain heavy too.  If it's just mounted to the bed frame would
that be enough to keep it from falling forward? (as in crushing me when I'm sleeping) I love this headboard but afraid of it too.  Any suggestions?


texts: I have a basement that I am planning on finishing.  There was a mold problem.  After washing the basement walls, I soaked them in Concrobium.  I then painted the walls with a masonry waterproofing paint that's antimicrobial. Two days later, I see brown mold stains coming through the paint.  Is the mold still living?  What can I do here?