texts: My yard is eroding away and taking my house with it: what's the cheapest way to build a retaining wall to stop it?

texts:
We can't get grass to grow in spots in our backyard due to a combination of dogs, trees, and shade.
Behind the house is a hill.  A third of it has a retaining wall built with rail road ties.  It has been there since before I moved into the house as a 5 year old which was 25 years ago.
The other 2/3rds of that hill right behind the house have been eroding massively over the last 3 years to the point that you can see the foundation of the house, walls in the house are cracking and a ball on the floor will roll toward the hill every time (i.e., the house is falling downhill).

Now here is the big key:  We are planning on moving, and we are on a shoestring budget.

Is my best bet to build a retaining wall that matches the other one?  Should I do concrete blocks instead?  Stone?

What is the cheapest way to do this that won't look horrible?


texts: I have a challenger panel with a burned bus and bad breakers. I'm looking to replace them. I called my local shops and they said they don't carry this anymore. Is there a replacement option without going to remove the entire box? I am mainly looking to replace the interior components Bus and breakers. I don't mind other brands as long as they fit. The panel is 100 amp and I have attached images of the label and the bus. Thank you.


texts: I have a brand new vacuum (dyson) that trips my breaker. Never happened before this except once when I ran 2 other vacuums at the same time


texts: Bathroom outlet has poor Continuity, no tripped breakers

texts:
I just moved into a used home and replacing outlets (prior family loved pulling by the cord). In the master bedroom bath, I removed the old outlet and installed the new one. Did not short or ground fault the wires. I now have poor continuity, without breaker tripping. I noticed that the garage has no power now, and earlier I had a temporary loss of power in the garage that corrected itself.

I have checked the connections in the outlet box and switches but not light yet. They are all good. When I plug my continuity tester into the outlet it beeps. I had isolated the garage to this plug by removing the line out and lost the poor continuity signal in the garage without lighting any voltage or amp lights.

I had not yet checked the GFI in the main bath on the other side of the wall yet Just realized that is a possibility. I did not think that many rooms would be linked together for outlets in Utah. This would explain though why the outlet in the Master bed bath is not a GFI.

I am not able to return for a day or so and was wondering if someone had other ideas I could try upon my return in case it is not the GFI.


texts: AC Handler Keeps Leaking After Multiple Repairs (Geothermal unit)

texts:
I first want to start out by saying I am not a handy man kinda guy. My ac has broken every weekend for the past 2 months. The majority of the breakage is constant leaking from the area I will go over below. After 3 times replacing it my blower motor ended up going bad. Once I replaced the blower motor, the pipe started leaking again. We replaced the pipe again this weekend with guidance from a plumber, he advised the plastic and metal was the problem so he instructed us on how we could create a good connection using cpvc and adapters which we implemented. Last night I noticed the AC is leaking again, this time it is from the same water line but it is on the other side of the coil this time. I feel there is something in the line somewhere causing unsual pressure which is causing the system to leak out at its weakest point. I have lived in the house for 5 years and have not had this issue previously.

I do not know the name of this line so I am having a hard time googling for solutions. No one seems to know how to work on my system and I cannot afford the $10k they want to replace it. I am reaching out here in hopes someone has a good idea of what could be causing the leaks or how to diagnose. Here are some pictures and verbiage to go along with them. Any help is so much appreciated!

Questions

What would I call the line marked D when googling. Water intake line?
I feel the problem is due to new pressure in the system since the leak keeps moving, how do I diagnose if it is the pressure and what is causing the pressure?
Also looking for any other advise or tips to figuring this thing out.

Inside Mapping

A. Condensation Tube

B. Coil the leaking water runs through (first leak was directly before it, second leak is directly after it)

C. Very hot copper pipe (thought was maybe this was shrinking the pvc when it got hot because we kept finding the threaded adapter very loose even after we tightened it, so our last setup removed this possibility)

D. Cold water line that we keep replacing

E. Location the first leak happened before putting brass extension on the
3rd time, after installed it still leaked where brass and PVC met

F. Drain tube from coil which is now leaking

First/Second Leak

Third Leak

Current Leak


texts: How much Weight can a drywall ceiling hold

texts: I want to hang something and I want to make sure it doesn’t fall


texts: How do I make ground connections at my receptacle boxes?

texts:
I searched for my question but could not find the answers. I had the inspector out for my rough in on electrical inspection. He said I did a very nice job but I need to make all my grounds at all my boxes. (Receptacles, Lights, etc.)

My question is how do I properly make my grounds at all boxes. Example. I have my feed wire coming into my receptacle box and then my 12-2 wire continues out of the box and onto the next. Do I have to install the receptacle and piggy back a wire from both grounds to the receptacle or is there a proper way to do this?


texts: Anyone know what this paper backing under this ceiling texture is?

texts:
I'm hoping someone knows what appears to be some kind of paper backing under ceiling texture is. Some areas are just peeling right off. Mainly around cracks. Other areas are very difficult and it almost seems like some kind of old adhesive.

I'm not sure what all the layers on top of the plaster are. I thought it was just some old textured paint that was peeling off of the plaster. But there seems to be some type of paper backing under it that was adhered to the plaster. The house was built in 1921 and from what I can tell this is the only room where the ceiling is like this. Ideally I'd like to scrape it all away to the plaster. There are a lot of areas peeling.

Any ideas on how to get the areas that don't want to come loose off?

Thanks.


texts: What could cause a water pressure dip at the cut in pressure?

texts:
I am consistently seeing/feeling a pressure drop just before the pump kicks in to refill the Pressure tank.  I am on a well with a diaphragm pressure tank.
I have drained the system and verified the air pressure 40psi.  The cut in pressure is 42psi and the cut out pressure is about 72psi.  When I open the faucet the pressure goes down smoothly until it reaches about 52 psi, then there is a fast dip down to 42 then immediately returns to 52+psi as the pump activates.
I have video'd this and can see the gauge and the "plate" on the pressure switch dip at the same time so it isn't a bad gauge...I can also feel this dip while in the shower.
Everything else seems to be working fine.  Just want to make sure that this isn't killing my pump or pressure tank.
If there is a fix, I am all ears.


texts: Bathroom vent where there already is one?

texts:
In our master bathroom we have a smaller room with a door where the toilet is. This smaller room contains a vent fan. The larger area where the shower and sinks are doesn't have a vent and gets very humid.

Is it possible to install a vent fan in the shower area and just hook it up to the other vent fan’s exhaust ductwork?

All vent fans are single units where the fan is located within the vent in the bathroom.


texts: How to repair rotten plywood board under vinyl bay/bow window?

texts:
This vinyl bow window was installed about 15-20 years ago:

Overall it looks and works OK, but the underside is wood and has severely rotted around the outer edges:

Here's a detail of one corner. There is a cut hole in both outer corners, with what appears to be a rusty bolt head visible inside. The wood appears to be plywood, and around the outside edge it has rotted to the point that you can easily break it away with your fingers. My guess is that this is due to water wicking back along the underside of the window when it rains, and it should have been constructed or flashed differently to avoid that.

How should this be repaired? In particular:

Is it possible to disassemble and replace the rotted piece from the outside in a bottom-up approach, or would you remove the inner window sill and work downward?
Is this even repairable or does this effectively guarantee there are deeper problems with the window?
How would I prevent this rot from occurring again in the future?


texts: Will this DeWalt #8 screw countersink bit be good for 1/16" aluminum?

texts:
I want to screw aluminum to wood. If it was wood to wood, this bit:
Image from zoro.com
makes perfect sense for the pilot and counter sink. However, it makes no mention of if the counter sink part would handle aluminum.
Alternatively, should I use this 1/2" Ryobi countersink:
Image from Home Depot
and a separate drill bit for the pilot hole?


texts: What should base kitchen cabinets sit on top of? Why? Why not?

texts:
We are renovating our kitchen.
We are ripping up the existing tiled floor. We are going to be installing IKEA cabinets.

Should I install the cabinets on top of the subfloor? Or should I install the cabinets on top of a finished floor (wood, tile, linoleum, etc.)

Why? Pros/Cons?


texts: Do I need to do anything to protect my pool during a rare freeze?

texts:
I have an small inground pool in the backyard. I live in central Florida, so it doesn't get too cold around here very often. However, tonight there is supposed to be a hard freeze (24°F for 4-7 hours) and I'm a little worried about the pool.

If I do nothing in particular, might that be bad for the pool? If so, what can I do to protect it?

Edit: The pool still has all its water in it and isn't covered.  We don't tend to empty pools around here, and I don't own a cover.


texts:
I have a hunter Fan/Light I am installing.  I purchased the pictured Lutron switch to control the fan/light.  My power source comes into the switch box and is wired as follows: Power source (Black) tied to Black on the switch; Power source (White) tied to the White wire running to the ceiling fan; Power source ground (Bare) tied to the Green switch wire and the bare ground wire running to the ceiling fan; The Red wire running to the ceiling fan is tied to the Red wire on the switch.  The black wire running to the ceiling fan is tied to the yellow wire on the switch.

At the ceiling box I connected the black wire from the switch to the black (Fan) on the fan motor, the red from the ceiling to the blue (Light) on the fan motor, the white from the ceiling to the white on the motor and tied all the grounds together.

Am I correct in the wiring here?  I've done one of these before but it's been a while.  The instructions with both the switch and the fan are not much help by any stretch!


texts: Need ideas on putting drywall on old walls with plywood

texts:
I have old walls with plywood and on top of it there are wood battens. I want to put the drywall to make it look nice, since currently to me it looks more of old style. I have taken off one of the wood batten to see what is underneath. I need suggestions on

Can I just screw the drywall on top of wood battens?
How about if I remove batten and then screw in dry wall?
At one of the wall I would have drywall meeting the brick wall. How would I finish it?
I also have some doors in the room, is there a way if I don’t remove the door frame and just have the drywall flush to the door frame? Since they are 0.5 inch out.


texts: Adding a dimmer to a four-way light circuit

texts:
I am wondering if someone can help me put a dimmer in a 4-way setup.  I will describe from left to right, which controls one light from three locations.
Maestro MACL-153M (Manual Dimmer)
or
TP-Link HS200 (Alexa Dimmer)
The attached image is what I grabbed from each of the boxes.  I can/want to remove the left 3-way.  I want the dimmer to go into the 4-way location.  This way I have a 3-way configuration.

this is how the house is layed out from left to right.  4way, 3way, 3way.  I just want a dimmer at 4way location.


texts: How do I connect the chime unit with my doorbell camera?

texts:
I bought an Amcrest AD110 doorbell camera. I installed and it works but I noticed pressing the button does not ring the doorbell. I can't figure out how I am meant to wire this.

Here's the transformer:

The wires on the right run to a second chime unit which no longer exists. They have been disconnected for years and the old doorbell worked fine this way.

Here's the chime:

Ignore that the wires are not properly attached. They are loose and uncapped because I was just messing with it. With the wires connected this way (the two whites tied together), the doorbell camera gets power but the chime unit does not activate when the button is pressed.

The "chime kit" shown in the diagram below was connected to the reds.

Here's the wiring diagram from the manual (page 7 if you would like to look it up yourself):

I have a crappy (Harbor Freight) but functional multimeter and a non-contact voltage tester but not much else to work with right now. I'm not willing to go to big orange to buy anything due to the current global issue that shall not be named.

Between the terminals of the transformer I get ~23 VAC.
Between the right-most red and the bundle of whites I get ~23 VAC.
Between the left most red and the bundle of whites I get ~23 VAC.
Between the reds I get ignorable voltage (random and under 1 VAC).

What is this chime kit that I am supposed to connect to the chime? Do I really need it?
Does my chime have two pairs of wires because of the other chime unit that no longer exists? If yes, how can I determine which wires I no longer need in this chime?
How do I need to connect this together?


texts: adjustable pressure relief valve on a gas water heater

texts: Is it necessary to have to adjustable pressure relief valve and a t&p valve on a gas water heater, or can this be bypassed?


texts: How to get dried paint out of washing machine?

texts: I'm trying to clean latex paint out of a front end loader washing machine. It was a towel that was soaked in paint. Chalk paint! It was thrown in my front end loader and I’ve been trying for 2 days to get it out. Still some sticky, and some very stuck. I’ve tried vinegar, baking soda, bleach etc.


texts: Can you crimp a tubular lug without a crimper plier?

texts:
I want to use these lugs on my electrical installation, but I can only find pliers for up to 16 mm2 cables and the mains cables are 25 mm2. I found one store that carried pliers able to do up to 50 mm2, but they where VERY expensive (about 150 dollars).

Is it possible to use these nice lugs without proper pliers? (I will need to crimp at most 8 lugs).


texts:
I would like to replace with a rectangular single (or double) sink and new tap. Would the rectangular part be cut out of the top left?
We like something like this, a clean and deep single rectangular sink.
https://www.appliancesonline.com.au/product/oliveri-ap1491-apollo-sink
What do we do about the space that rotates around to the left?
Any perspective about how to work with what we have would be useful
Photos of space below


texts: My heating coil was bent. Should it be replaced?

texts:
I know nothing about home improvement so apologies if I have the terms wrong. My landlord sent someone inexperienced to replace my below-window AC unit, and the person somehow bent the heating coil above it. It's now sort of a wide upside down v shape, with one end almost an inch lower than the other.

Should I make the landlord replace the bent coil with a new one? (The landlord wants to try to unbend it.)

It's hard to capture it in photos, but here is my attempt. The first photo compares the bent coil unit to the normal one in the other room, so you can see how much it's bent.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Most cost and time efficient way to sound dampen exterior wall with drywall

texts:
So in new construction here...

I want to sound deaden bedroom walls from outside noise.  Traffic, storms, loud people, etc.  I know I can't achieve 100% due to a window.  (I have plans to make a foam insert for that when desired for extra quiet-ness)  Ideally I would just do 1/2" drywall - green glue - 1/2" drywall.  If I do this, my premade window jambs will be about 1/4" short of reaching the plane of my drywall.  Is there a better way that does not require 1" to 1-1/8" thick drywall?


texts: Can I remove / rework studs to access crawl space/storage underneath stairs?

texts:
I would like to use the space underneath my stairs for extra storage. When I opened the wall, I noticed the 3 studs are spaced 13 inches apart and I can't squeeze myself through. Is there a way I can (partially) remove one of these studs to create an access hole? I do believe it is a load bearing wall, so I know I have to be careful here.

I managed to squeeze through and  take photos inside the crawl space. So as you can see 2 visible studs that pretty much measure all the way up to the top the second floor the 3rd stud all the way to the right is a lot shorter and is nailed to the side frame of the stairs. I'm wondering if this would be a much safer stud to take out then the other two but is this holding up my stairs? Now All the way to my left is the Plumbing for my laundry room upstairs  which I really don't want to move or mess with and then there is studs for the bathroom, approximately right where my toilet is. Keep in mind there is a bathroom that takes up most of under the stairwell. I just wanted to utilize  the most amount of space I have left.

Here are the other two photos I forgot to include


texts: Mix paint using red, yellow and blue give Hex code

texts:
I want to replicate a color scheme that is given in Hex codes (RGB, equivalently) - example here.
Given that I have red, yellow, blue, white and black paint, how am I supposed to systematically reproduce these colors? How can I determine the exact proportions of red, yellow, blue, white and black paint I should mix in order to get the colors shown? (Or any Hex-coded color for that matter.)
In any case I want to avoid mixing things "by eye". It seems too... dangerous given that suddenly factors like light can make a huge difference. I.e. if I am repainting after working hours, I may have to mix the paint on artificial light and may mix something different from what was initially planned. Also, if I am trying to stick to a pre-defined color scheme, then even minor differences in a particular color can produce major difference when combined with the minor differences in the other colors of the color scheme I'm trying to use.


texts: Help cutting/squaring floor joist for shed

texts:
I am a novice, and i am trying to build a shed myself. I don't have any framing experience.

I purchased a miter saw, and a circular saw. The plans call for 2x8 floor joists with 3 inches shorter on the inner short boards. So i purchased two 2x8x10 boards, and two 2x8x12 boards, cutting the 2x8x10 3 inches shorter. First the boards arent exactly 10ft.. they are about 5/8 of an inch longer. Why is that?

Second i don't have a table for the miter saw so i figured id get by with a circular saw.. i see the framers who build houses by me pretty much use only that.. i cut one end to make sure it's straight.. as it wasn't perfect. Then i made my final cut.. well i had a guide board, and not too expierenced with a circular saw, it kept getting stuck because of the blade guard was s getting caught and not sliding up. What was i doing wrong here?

Finally i got the cut straight as i had to go in a little bit to correct the cut. Now the cut is about 1/8th too short. I stopped here because i need advice. These boards are $15 a piece.. can i still use this one? Does every cut have tp be perfect? Can it be a little off and still be fine?

Am i over doing it trying to use a guide board? I see the framers zipping ends off free handed.. and im wondering if i am trying to be too perfect. I don't  want to assume anything and have the shed look like a teo year old built it.

Maybe i need to just get a miter saw table and stick with using that?

Please help give me some pointers on measurements to get my shed floor frame square. thank you!


texts:
So I have 2 kura beds

I want to stack them on top of each other. Something similar to image below. My question is how do I secure it. It will just be 1 bed, so the top kura bed will not have to support any weight other than the toddler leaning on it (hanging on it when I'm not looking?).

My initial thoughts are:

Gorilla glue all along the edge
Some kind of brace between them in addition (what kind of would I need?)
Secure it to the wall along the studs

Would the above be secure enough for toddler use?


texts: Vanity light installation versus box location

texts:
I just installed a replacement fixture and ran into a small puzzle.
This fixture, and its predecessor, are mounted on back-plates. The plate has curved slots in the middle for screws into a box, and then holes off towards the ends intended for anchors.
The original builders of the house didn't center the box on the vanity. They mounted the back-plate off-center, and used a pair of mammoth toggle bolts for the anchors. The box was still 'in range' for the wires to come through the center of the plate. Even so, position was not, in fact, centered over the mirror. (It was aligned with the right hand edge.)
I didn't really tune into the position, and just put up the new one screwed to the box (with the more modest anchors supplied with the fixture), and I'm living with it being not-quite-centered over the mirror.
My question: Are there are any code issues with a lack of a mechanical connection to the box.
I am planning to replace another (larger) one of these, and I would not be surprised if the box is nowhere near the supplied holes, and I have to drill the back-plate. My expectation is that so long as there is ground connecting the box, the plate, and the fixture ground, all is well, but I write to check.


texts: Hot and neutral lines from separate meters

texts:
I live in Jordan. We have a 380Vp-p, star, 4-wire, earthed neutral connection to the building. We get 220V to the apartment (from one of the phases). I have recently installed an EV charging station for my car (13A charging current.) The electrician connected the station's hot wire from the building service line (used for elevator and lighting). But, for some reason, he could not return the neutral wire to the same meter. Instead, he connected it to my apartment's neutral which is connected to a different meter.

Is this configuration safe? Does it cause problems in billing?


texts: Should my thermostat's blue wire be going to W2?

texts:
I've recently moved into my first house and am looking to replace the existing basic thermostat in the home. Here is a picture of how I found it wired:

Researching the wires, I've read that commonly W2 is suppose to be white and blue wire is usually C (Common); and that W2 is used in 2 stage heating systems. So now I'm concerned if this old thermostat was not wired properly? Or if my wire colors are just uncommon...

I'm unsure if my furnace (Amana GUIS070CA35) is actually two stage or not. When I get the new thermostat should I just plug the blue wire into C and see what happens? The thermostat I'm looking at would use the 24V common wire to power the display. So I'd guess if it didn't power up that the blue wire was actually for W2.


texts: What could cause the garage door overhead light to not stay on while the door is opening?

texts: We replaced one wall switch with a door bell button and now the overhead light flashes on when I hit the button, goes off and then the light comes back on when the door is fully open.  Before replacing the button, the light would come on and stay on during the door opening operation.  When the door is opened with a different second wall switch or with the remote door opener in the car, the light will come on and stay on.


texts: What is the name of this Allen-head furniture fastener?

texts:
I have a couple of boards that are parts of a table I am assembling, and I wish to know the name of the metal piece of hardware circled in red, below.  I would have thought it was called a bolt, but I cannot find anything like it under the name "bolts" at home depot.

EDIT:

Upon closer inspection, the hardware appears to be threaded inside for accepting a machine screw.  This may help with identification, and I believe that one or two of the answers below may be already correct.  I am reluctant to remove it from the hole because I do not want to risk stripping the wood in the hole.


texts: Does a 4 ft. chain link fence need concrete footings for the posts?

texts:
I am about to install a chain link fence between my deck and pool. My pool has a 4 inch slab of concrete and I have about 5" between the deck and the start of the concrete. The chain link fence will just fit between the two.

It will be near impossible to dig a hole in that small of a space. This fence will be a 4' fence, low grade, as it's more to act as a visual buffer between the deck and the pool for our young daughter (the entire backyard is enclosed in a 6ft vinyl privacy fence.

So my question is, what is the minimum height I should drive the posts to make them sturdy - and would it help to attach the posts to the side of the concrete pad with U brackets?


texts: DIY solution for open ground wiring where electronics need to be plugged in?

texts:
Although many of the original two-prong outlets in a rental property (built around 1958) have been replaced with three-prong ones almost none of them are actually grounded (the couple that are grounded appear to be in a non-original addition to the property), as our outlet tester indicated an open ground on these outlets. We would like to plug electronics like TVs, game consoles, etc. into some of these outlets. I understand there to be a risk of ESD damage to the device if we were to plug in the electronics into the outlet as is, in addition to the increased risk of electrical shock by a metallic malfunctioning device.

So what kind of DIY solutions do we have to choose from, and in what order of preference should we opt for one solution over another? Since this is a rental, we would like to stay away from expensive solutions like tearing down walls or having the entire house re-wired.

Possible solutions I've seen suggested: (apparently some of these solutions may or may not be good ideas?)

Check for unused grounding wire, and connect if found (great option, but I suspect we will not find such wiring based on the age of the building)
Replace receptacle with ungrounded GFCI outlet
Connect a ground wire from the outlet plug to it's box (presuming we discover the box is metal not plastic) and use the box for ground
Ignore the lack of proper ground and cross our fingers none of our electronics get damaged
Run an extension cord from a properly grounded outlet in a non-original part of the house to where the electronics will be?
Something else?


texts: What is the purpose of a watt regulator in my ceiling fan?

texts:
The lights on my harbor breeze fan stopped working this morning. When I came home from work, I got the ladder and took down the lights. I don't have a multimeter but I saw that there is this Watt Regulator (pic below) in the fan. I traced the wires and it seems that this may have been the culprit. I snipped the wires, got some wire nuts, and wired directly into the 120V circuit. Ta-da! Lights are back and fan is working normal.

Question is : What is the purpose of this watt regulator? Why do some fans include it?


texts: Where to connect c wire at furnace for Honeywell Wi-FI thermostat

texts:
We are installing a new honeywell wifi thermostat have an extra blue wire in our bundle.  We aren't sure where to connect the blue wire on the furnace board.

Click for larger view


texts: Will a 72 x 24 x 1 3/4" Maple tabletop sag if supported by only four legs?

texts:
My current working desk is a 1" thick table.

Even though there is not much weight on top of the desk (screen, keyboard, laptop ), the table's own weight, given its  top dimensions, 60" x 30" ( 150cm x 75cm ) means that an underframe is necessary. Simply attaching four legs will mean that it will start to sag after a year or two. ( This is right; isn't it? )

I fitted it with a Bekant underframe from Ikea. I lowered the Bekant to its lowest height and am not using a keyboard tray.

It's not quite right. My knees will sometimes bang on the underframe.

I see on the market a table that's 72" x 24". This one is made from maple ( the first is birch ). But the thickness is 1 3/4".

Sure, a 72" x 24" would be unusual for a desk. It's meant for a countertop. Still:

Can I fit four legs, and just four legs, on a 72x24 maple table and expect it not to sag?

Or is this a recipe for me to have a nice table for two years, and then inevitably see it getting worse and worse, until it's quite bad after five years?


texts: Designed a floating corner table, unsure of its potential strength. Any ideas?

texts:
I pretty much want to attach some angle iron to the studs and some threaded rods to the angle iron. I'll rout out the profile of the angle iron into the butcher block so it sits flush and so that when I tighten down on the rods, it's clamping to something solid. I want to drill holes through the butcher block and tighten them down to the edge of the table.

Here's a drawing:

How much max weight do you guys think the edge will support? Will it sag if I was to put my elbows on the table? Could I rest down a 50 pound book bag on the rounded corner, or would that break? How about if a kid was to sit on it? Or even a full size adult?

I know it's not as strong as it would be if I was to simply put a brace there, but with the limited space this is fitting in, I want to be able to use that corner as a third seat. Plus, it'd be cool. Nobody else would have ever seen a floating table that big!

My other option is to use 1/2" hanger bolts and tighten right up to the drywall.


texts: Hot water is not getting hot in kitchen sink only

texts:
The hot water valve is open and the water comes out but it stays cold. We shut off the cold water valve and it made no difference (besides obviously when you turn to cold side no water pours). We turned closed and opened hot valve and it did not change the temp, it when closed had no water came out.
The water in the bathrooms gets hot and very quickly.
We just got new countertops so everything was disconnected yesterday.


texts: 2 gang standard switch to 1 gang dimmer switch

texts: Hi I'm just curious as to how I would go about replacing my 2 gang living room standard light switch to a 1 gang dimmer switch, I'm in the UK just if that makes a difference to wiring, I can turn the light on and off from in my kitchen and near the hall way in another room.


texts: Simple test RFI tests for fluorescent bulb replacement

texts:
I am interested in testing RFI originating from LED T8 replacement bulbs, which are seated in troffers.  Original ballasts have been removed from the troopers.  Is there a simple test that can be performed without special test equipment?  The goal is not necessarily gain a quantitive measurement, but to understand if and what frequency bands are impacted.

The issue is not critical (yet), however, I would like to know if there are simple / inexpensive methods to test.   I am seeking tests that can be performed with equipment under $100.   I would think that the most important spectrum to guard are  the cellular and wifi bands: a UBNT Nanostation might be repurposed.


texts: Alternative equipment(s) to drill a few holes on a 0.5 cm plastic beside using a small drill

texts: Are there other alternatives beside a small drill (shown below) to drill a few holes on a 0.5 cm plastic? (Looking for something that is inexpensive, save energy, portable and can drill a decent hole on a 0.5 cm plastic. The maximum hole diameter should be around 0.5cm or smaller.)


texts: Neutral-Ground bonding with generator (no utility power)

texts:
I've been doing plenty of searching around the internet, but cannot find anything for my specific scenario. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to install a breaker panel at my campsite in the woods, but I will be using my portable generator to power the panel instead of utility power. This means I don't have any transfer switches or interlocks or other existing infrastructure.
My setup:
Ground-neutral bonded generator. L14-30 cord going to panel.
The breaker panel is permanently installed at the campsite, with all circuits from the yard.
Now here's the question:
Part 1: Am I correct in my understanding that the breaker panel should NOT have the ground bonded to the neutral since the generator already provides this?
Part 2: Where do I need to drive my ground rod? Does it need to go at the location of the panel, the location of the generator? Or does it not matter which end of the L14-30 cord it gets connected to?
Thank you,
Kaden


texts:
On the exterior of my house, there is a corner where one wall is brick and the other is cedar shingles.
There is a some space between the two where cold air gets in and the interior wall that is near there gets quite frigid.
Should I insulate this wall? If so, should I just use caulk or some expanding foam?
If caulk, which kind should I use?


texts: Taco zone controller - blinking yellow light?

texts:
I have a Taco ZVC406 zone controller. This is the type which takes signals from multiple thermostats and uses relays to switch on the heating loop pump.
I am using a Honeywell CT87K thermostat on one zone. Hooking it up resulted in the yellow signal light for that zone persistently blinking yellow when there is NO call for heat. The zone does work OK and there is no blinking when heat is on.
I have an identical setup on another ZVC controller with the same thermostat, and no problem.
This thermostat does NOT require a C-wire, and in fact as far as I can tell won't even accept one. It will take R, W, Y (RW are the "T/T" thermostat switch signal, and Y seems to be some sort of boiler signal which my system doesn't have).
I've read other posts about the same symptom but those were with Nest thermostats which would take a C wire if available and apparently were sucking some current from the TT signal, causing the problem.
Since the other zones don't have the same issue, I suspect there is some failed or failing component but I'm not sure what to look for.
The instructions don't mention anything about this.


texts: Is grout in the toilet a plumbing clog concern?

texts:
I recently had a bathroom tiling job gone bad. There were a number of issues. One thing I noticed this morning was that the bottom of the toilet has what appears to be dried up grout mixture. Fortunately it doesn't appear to be hard/stuck (I poked it with a pencil and found that its like silt/sand).

Could this still be a plumbing problem, if not now then possibly later?

Below: This is what I noticed at the bottom this morning.

Below: After I poked it around with a pencil.


texts: How do I stop water from coming under my multitrack sliding doors?

texts:
I live in a desert where seasonal hard rains occur 5-10 times per year.  We have an automated door with a multitrack slide that it lets quite a bit of water in when it rains hard.  The door is an architectural feature and very good looking, but the random rains create quite a mess.  The patio is not under deep cover, which might prevent the problem.  My question is what can I do to stop the rain from coming in under the doors?  I don't want to lose the function of the doors, so caulking shut is unfortunately not a solution.  One solution might be something that I can place in front of the door before a rain, but I don't know exactly what that could be.

Here is a picture of a similar door:


texts: Ground wire not long enough in 4-prong dryer cord?

texts:
I have a Whirlpool model LEC8858EQ0 dryer with a 3-prong cord and am installing a 4-prong cord. Everything has gone well, except the ground wire isn't nearly long enough to reach the grounding screw.

In the picture you can see the grounding screw at top left and the ground wire hanging sadly below it. The difference is a couple of inches.
I tried connecting the ground wire first to make sure it reaches, but if I do that the rest of the wires are too far from where they need to be.
Is there something I can do to bridge the gap?


texts: All outlets on one 15-amp circuit, need AC unit

texts:
The central AC in our apartment is not working effectively in the summer; we are running the AC continuously for 14 hours a day to keep the temperature below 80 degrees. As you can imagine, our electric bill has become a huge problem.

(Edit: Please note the maintenance staff are incompetent and management doesn't care about our problem at all -"getting the central AC fixed" is not an option, if it's even fixable)

I bought a used portable AC unit (around 11,000 BTU, rated at 12 amps) and plugged it into an arbitrary outlet near a window, because I was always able to do so with a similar AC at my parent's house. The portable unit worked great for a couple of minutes and then tripped the circuit breaker, which also shut off my computer.

After a lot of testing I have determined that all of the outlets in the two bedrooms and in the living room run off a single 15-amp circuit (which was 'helpfully' labeled "lighting" in the circuit box). This rules out every outlet that is within reach of a window. There are two circuits labeled "plugs" in the circuit breaker, but AFAICT they aren't connected to anything (unless they're for the outlets in the kitchen).

Obviously because it's an apartment I can't do anything with the wiring, and I can't use an extension cord on an 11,000 BTU AC... Am I screwed here? Is this typical for an apartment with central AC?

The full set of circuits is (as they are labeled):

Central AC: 2x30A
Central Heat: 2x30A
Bathrooms: 2x15A
Plugs: 2x20A
Lights: 1x15A (again, this actually covers outlet in 3 rooms, there is no overhead lighting)
Garbage Disposal: 15A (nowhere near a window)
Dishwasher: 15A (nowhere near a window)
Electic Range: 2 x 40A (oven/stove)


texts: What material is this in my 1950s home's walls? Is it dangerous?

texts:
I am renovating an old bathroom. It's in a house built in the late 1950s in Germany. I have removed the bathtub. The bathtub was built in a box, which had tiles on the outside and this black material on the inside.

My question is:
What is this stuff? Is it asbestos? I need to know, because if it really is asbestic-material I cannot dispose it along with the "normal" debries.


texts: Can I use a 15 amp receptacle on a branch circuit fed by a 30 amp breaker?

texts:
I will be using a high amp appliance at the end of a  branch circuit, but in between them I have a room connected to it with a 15 amp receptacle.

Am I allowed to do this?


texts: Drilling into wall opposite an ADT control panel — voltage detector going crazy, is this a no-go?

texts:
First, I’m very inexperienced. I’m trying to hang a mirror on a wall, but the opposite side of the wall has a newer “smart home” ADT control panel. I figured there’d be some wiring to avoid, but my Fluke VoltAlert pen (2AC/90-1000V) just lights up every place on the wall within about 3 feet from the panel on the other side. Similarly with my voltage detecting stud finder - beeping along every spot on the entire section of wall I was going to drill into, with no distinct pathway of wires that I can detect.
Is there maybe a giant electrical panel in the wall behind the ADT Smart Home interface panel that could be causing this? Am I SOL or is there another way to determine if/where I can drill?


texts: How can I increase the power capacity of a kitchen circuit?

texts:
My small kitchen has two standard duplex outlets in one wall: one of the outlets is in a corner behind the fridge and it's exclusively for the fridge. The other outlet (this one) is the one I use for the three small appliances (a panini maker, a small electric oven, and a microwave) plus the electric part of the gas stove (clock, oven light, etc).
I've been using a simple power cord strip similar to this, but it shuts down if I connect a small oven or the microwave.
What alternatives do I have to increase the number of plugs? I can't break the wall to install another outlet.


texts: Do I need to brace joists after removing basement ceiling?

texts:
I'm about to take out the lath & plaster ceiling in the basement of my 1908 house (I'm hiring it out; I know how bad the mess is). Main reasons for doing this are to get access to wiring and allow me to insulate.

This is in Iowa, not a seismic zone. The basement is unfinished except for this ceiling, and I'm inclined to keep it that way for a while so we can so some remodeling upstairs.

After taking out the ceiling, should I add braces to the 2x8 joists? I'm pretty sure there are none at this time, and I'd think there is a structural element to the ceiling that keeps the joists stable.

Is there any way to know whether I need braces, apart for listening for ominous creaks? :-\


texts: Rewiring outlet from half-hot to full-hot

texts:
I have multiple outlets in my room where the top plug on the outlet is controlled by a light switch. My objective is simply to make it so that these top plugs are always hot, regardless of the position of the light switch.
After turning off the breaker, testing the outlet, and opening the outlet, the job appeared pretty simple: I have the expected ground wire near the bottom and two white wires connected to the left side of the outlet under screws (and connected together by an unbroken brass/copper tab), and on the right side there was a red wire connected to the top screw and a black wire connected to the bottom screw (but the brass/copper tab on this side has been intentionally broken, presumably to allow them to operate independently of each other). Since the top plug is connected to the red wire, and the top plug is the one that's controlled by the light switch, my instinct was that the red wire was my culprit. Therefore, my goal was to remove the red wire and have only black wires going to the right side: https://imgur.com/a/F5cZfeZ
To confirm this hypothesis, I opened up an adjacent full-hot outlet. As I suspected, no red wires were attached, only two white, two black, and the ground (green). https://imgur.com/a/1ayrXRW
The electrician seemed to make things easy for me. There were two caps, one red and one black. The red had three wires terminating in the cap, one of which was very short (it was this short wire that was connected to the outlet). I just removed this short wire, and left the other two wound together and in the cap. https://imgur.com/a/g4tBEdj
Similarly, there were three black wires terminating in the cap, one of which was very short (again, the short wire was the one connected to the outlet). I removed the short wire and the cap completely, and just took both of the other two wires and attached them to both of the (newly available) screws. https://imgur.com/a/jpBEDVQ
After completing the wiring, I turned the breaker back on. Nothing alarming occurred (and the breaker didn't trip or anything), but now all of the half-hot outlets in my room are completely non-functional. In fact, the light/fan that were also controlled by other switches in the room is also not working. The other outlets and lights in the room are working normally.
My only guess is that I need to get an unbroken brass/copper tab to replace the broken one on the outlet. This is my guess because the adjacent full-hot outlet had an unbroken one, which I saw when I opened it up as a reference. I was very careful to make sure that screws were fully screwed in to prevent a wire from popping out and was careful that uninsulated ground wasn't touching any uninsulated hot (which I imagine would have caused an immediate short/breaker flip if it had).


texts: this is my second question on this problem, i hope it's ok to ask another question because i'm  pretty stressed about a fire in my walls like someone said could happen. In my kitchen we had a outlet that would crackle when i plugged something into the outlet on the other side of the counter. So in other words when i plugged something into outlet A outlet B would make noise. Yesterday outlet A   stopped working and today outlet B is making noise when i plugged in my hot plate.  So  the two outlets must be connected. Here is my question, if all the outlets in the house are connected could may be  say plugging something in the bedroom cause a problem "Fire" in the bad wiring in the kitchen. Now that i'm not using it anymore i don't hear it making anymore noise but right next to it is another outlet that has my icebox plugged in. So is wiring in the house like a chain where if one link is bad the whole chain is effected?


texts: Continuous power between multi-gang boxes with 3 way switches

texts:
Apologies if this question is answered elsewhere. I couldn't find it specifically.

I'm planning on installing two multi-gang switch boxes, where all of the switched lighting will be on the same branch circuit. Both of the boxes will have a 3 way switch, which in combination will control one set of lights. All other switches in these boxes are single pole switches.

I'm trying to determine the best way to provide power to each of the switch boxes. Considering I need to run travelers between the two boxes, is it permissible to run a 4 conductor cable (2 travelers, 1 hot, and 1 neutral, 1 ground) between the boxes? This allows me to bring power into one box and through to the next box for additional switched wiring.

Thanks, once again, for your help in advance!


texts: What features do I need in a stud finder for use on plaster walls?

texts:
I have an old house built in the early 1930s. The conventional stud finders are useless on plaster. The more sophisticated ones are more expensive in the $50 range.

What features would a stud finder need to have to work well in my situation?


texts: How can I take care of this bathtub blemish? It is as if a small part is missing, less than an inch in size. Also, I have a couple scratches that I'd like to hide, but I wasn't able to get a focused picture on them. Thanks,


texts: What is the main difference between stopping and skimming when plastering and when to use each

texts:
Back in Australia I worked with some plasterers.  The process involved hanging plaster boards to the frame and then stopping.  Stopping involved appling a compound (setting base coat and drying top coat) and joining tape along all of the joints and over the screw holes followed by sanding for a perfectly smooth and level finish.

Since arriving in the UK I have noticed that often people prefer to skim the entire wall after hanging sheets of plaster to it.

Having seen both finished products, there look equally good to me.

Why do people do this and not just stop over the joins and screw holes? Is the process of skimming stem from older methods of plastering? or is there some other advantage that I am missing.


texts:
I just recently bought a the merwry ceiling fan from home depot.  It's a wireless fan with remote and I have 2 switches in my house, 1 with light dimmer.

I wired everything up and everything seems to work with both switches.  Is there any way to wire the ceiling fan so that both switches work and also the remote works for both light and fan?

Right now, I can control the ceiling fan with both switch and remote but I can only control the light with the switch and not with the remote.


texts: The GFCI outlet in my bathroom pops when I turn off the bathroom fan

texts:
I didn't do the wiring in this house, this has been happening since I moved in.

Basically, about 50% of the time that I turn off the bathroom fan, the GFCI outlet pops and needs to be reset. Once that happens, the fan no longer turns on until I reset the outlet. This only happens when shutting the fan off, not when turning it on or while it's running.

Does this likely indicate a problem with the wiring, the fan, or the outlet? I'm wondering what I should look at first.


texts:
I am looking to install a washer/dryer system in my apartment and have received mixed feedback about whether a 240v outlet can be ran through my existing subpanel to power the dryer.
Is there any way to tell if this is possible based on a picture of the subpanel?
There are no other major appliances within the apartment unit (only standard kitchen appliances).I believe the subpanel gets 40A from the main building panel (built in late 1960's - picture of the breaker from main panel attached and it says "40"). Any feedback would be much appreciated!


texts:
My two story brick house (Toronto, Canada, circa 1920) is about 5 feet from my neighbor's similar house.  Both houses have full basements;  my house extends about ten feet farther to the rear than his does.

He want to add an extension on the back of his house,  again with a full basement.  He is proposing that his contractor dig down for the new basement, excavating all the soil right up to my foundation wall.  He would then pour footings and build the foundation on his side of the property line according to code and by-laws, and backfill the space between my foundation and his new foundation.  My foundation is solid brick, three layers thick up to the first floor joists.

There would be some sort of heavy equipment used to remove the soil from next to my wall, the wall would have the inward force of the soil removed for some time, and then the soil would be replaced and compacted.

My question is basically:  What risks would I be exposing my house to with this process?


texts: What can I do if I need another gang in a junction box but there isn't space in the wall?

texts:
I have a dual gang junction box installed in a space between 2 studs in the wall. I want to add swap the box for a 3-gang box to add another switch for a ceiling fan, however when I took the cover plate off I found that it is nailed directly to studs on both sides. Is there anything I can do to replace it with a bigger box? The wall is exterior and possibly load bearing.

I looked into replacing the 2 current switches with duplex switches, however, one of the lights is an LED (Cree BA21) and its wired on a 3-way dimmer, the Lutron Maestro C+L dimmer along with the corresponding companion dimmer. There doesn't seem to be a dual dimmer for this light in the 3-way configuration (although I could give up the companion 3-way switch).

The only one I could find is the Lutron Skylark dual S2-L, however, it looks funny and I would lose the 3-way. Are there any other options?

Edit: The switch I want to add is for a fan/light so basically another duplex switch.


texts: Fibreglass batt vs rigid foam insulation replacement in attic

texts:
Cleaning out attic in older 1954 rancher, original batt insulation badly damaged due to moisture (no leaks, but previous owners replaced roof in the winter) and rodents. Attic is vented via soffit vents all around, and original insulation went right to the wall top plate, so access to the edges is difficult from inside the attic.

There is no vapour barrier in place, and I'm trying to decide between re-insulating with fibreglass batt or rigid foam. We plan on interior reno including replacing the ceilings somewhere in the next 1-3 years, and I'd like to re-use whichever insulation I use now.

My contractor friend thinks there will be no issue putting down fibreglass batts without a vapour barrier for a couple years. Several others have recommended cutting up poly and using tuck tape to put a vapour barrier between the ceiling joists, and then putting in batts. I'm not sure how effective this would actually be, and it's also a pretty tedious and time consuming idea.

A local company is selling recycled polyisocyanurate sheets. Using R5.6/in for older polyiso, the cost to insulate to >R20 (single layer of 4" polyiso or R20 batts) comes out to about 1400CAD, and >R40 comes out to 2900CAD for batts, 2800CAD for polyiso. Drywall to cover the polyiso is about 700-1200CAD depending on type.

I'm leaning towards putting down 1-2 layers of polyiso, taping the seams, and covering with drywall. The cost difference isn't huge and the performance and ease of installation look better. Is this a good plan, or should I stick with the fibreglass batts?


texts: Why would 2 different sprinkler zones cause pressure at the pump to drop to 0?

texts: Why would 2 out of 3 sprinkler zones cause the pressure reading at the pump to drop to 0? This is a well irrigation system and it is separate from the home's well. The pump is a 3/4 HP, has a flow rate of 10 GPM and is designed to maintain pressure at 40 PSI. The pressure tank is 2.1 gallons. The pump turns on at 30 PSI and off at 50 PSI. Zone 3 maintains 40 PSI perfectly, but zones 1 and 2 immediately drop to 0 PSI when activated, occasionally creeping up to 10 PSI but no more than that. There is still flow to the heads but they don't pop up. Is it possible there is a leak in both zones? If so, why would the symptoms be identical? Surely it would vary to some degree? I see no sign of leakage either, even after capping off all the heads. With capped heads, all symptoms are the same (0 PSI reading at the pump with an occasional 10 PSI). Assuming there is no leak, why would the pressure not build up with capped heads? If one zone is working fine, it couldn't be the pressure tank or pump, could it? The only thing I can think of is that there is a large obstruction in the mainline before the bad zones but after the good one, but even then, why would it not build pressure (since it's an obstruction)? The water must be going somewhere. Any help appreciated.


texts: How to clean the LCD screen of the television?

texts:
Due to my carelessness the LCD screen of the television has developed a sticky layer on some areas.

Can I clean it with a cloth and water? Or Any other (less expensive) solution for cleaning it?

I don't know much about the chemicals available in the market, and thus cannot trust them much.


texts: Water tastes weird and coper pipe looks corroded / affected

texts:
I originally started looking at the my water pipes because drinking my tap water gives a burning / dry sensation in my mouth and stomach.
My copper water pipe looks corroded / affected and has probably leaked some water on the tube from the neighbors.
I was wondering if anyone spotted something weird on the pictures or has heard of this problem before.
I've tried having all the taps open for 1+ hour, which doesn't change anything.
I have called a couple of companies, but they told me they can only try to test the water for a lot of money and maybe get a result out of that so they can fix the problem by chemically cleaning the tubes for more money.
Any help is very much appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/SktM0ss


texts: Intake valve failure (F02) in dishwasher, anything to try?

texts:
I bought a dishwasher, an Indesit DFP 58T94, and the installers were terrible. They connected the pipes but left without trying because they couldn't open the water valve. They told me it had to be replaced by a plumber. I easily opened by using a pair of plyers.

To my disappointment, the dishwasher is now displaying error F02, which is water intake valve selonoid failure. The failure is also clearly observable as water keeps pouring into the dishwasher even when it's off. It looks like the valve is not closing.

I booked an engineer to come and see it. Indesit/Whirpool completely refuse to give me any useful information other than a mighty holy engineer has to be booked.

I already cut the water supply, disconnected the hose, and checked in the intake filter, which looks clean. Is there anything I can do in the hopes of getting the dishwasher running or is it DOA?


texts: AFCI Trips When Stainless Steel Hoses Touch Washing Machine Cabinet. Why?

texts:
I noticed the hot water hose on my washing machine (SpeedQueen Top Loader) was corroded, so I decided to replace the hoses.

I bought braided stainless steel hoses and installed them.

Everything worked fine, until I pushed the washer back to the wall and the AFCI tripped.

After some confusion, I discovered that if the braided stainless hoses touched the washer's cabinet the AFCI would trip.   The trip happens as soon as the unit is plugged in.

What would cause the AFCI to trip in this case?

The washer has a 3 prong plugged and metal cabinet.  The AFCI is a 15 AMP Murray Combo AFCI.  The LED indicates ARC fault on some trips.

I have done the following tests:

Current between cabinet and shut off valves

I checked for current between the cabinet and the brass shutoff values.  My multimeter shows less than 1.4 uAMPs of current but it fluctuates.  This is with the washer plugged in.   This is micro amps not mili Amps, so would not expect it to trigger the AFCI unless it is bad.

Appliance Cord
I checked each prong of the plug against the back of the washer.  Only the ground plug shows continuity. The neutral and load are fine.

Why is the AFCI tripping?

For now, I have replaced the stainless hoses with rubber coated stainless ones so we can use the washer.

Any insights into the problem would be helpful.   Want to note that this is a 1899, 3 story home with electrical upgrades done at various stages.  I bought the home 3 years ago.


texts: What type of substrate should I use to install pavers over an existing poured slab patio

texts:
I'm going to be putting pavers over an old slab patio. The current patio has settled and spalled, so I'm looking to pitch the paver patio in such a way that it drains as the original slabs did. In some places that will mean 2" of substrate while 1/2" in others.

It is surrounded on two sides by brick wall, and a third side by pressure treated wood (the side of a house built on concrete tubes). The fourth side is the down hill side. Since there is something constraining on all sides, do I really have to cement the perimeter pavers down, or can I just install again existing surfaces?

I plan on using polymeric sand for the cracks, but what is the best type of substrate to use under the pavers if they are on top of solid concrete? Should I compact the substrate or not?


texts: How can I remove this tile window stool without compromising the installation of the vinyl window?

texts:
I'm planning to replace the tile window stool below this window with a piece of quartz countertop. In this picture, I have already removed part of the thick tan tile the stool is made of.

It looks like the window might be sitting on top of the tile, in which case removing 100% of the tile will remove support from underneath the window. Is the window actually supported by the tile? How can I prepare the area for a new window stool without compromising the installation of the window?


texts: How can I find out if I can add a bedroom to my home without violating any rules/ordinances?

texts: I think I heard somewhere when I bought my home that we weren't allowed to add any permanent (concrete foundation) fixtures on my property, such as a shed on a concrete foundation.  Well, adding a bedroom to my home would do exactly this, does anyone know who I can contact to find out if this is even allowed?  Such as maybe an official city agency of some sort?


texts: How can I disable one switch in a three-way circuit?

texts:
I replaced a ceiling fan with a regular light a while back that originally had 2 switches that worked it. When I was done only one switch worked. I was okay with this because I didn't use the other switch anyway. Well yesterday I removed the switch (the non used one) to put a blank plate on the wall. (To get rid of the switched that were of no use). So I capped off all wires from the switch, but now I can't use the original switch I'd been using. (It makes sense that I cause disruption in the way things connected it just didn't occur to me that it would happen). What can I do to make connection behind this plate without putting a switch back in, if anything?

The red and the black at the bottom are the hot, nothing on the others. There are three sets of wires, any help would be appreciative. They can be labeled as A B and C.

I replaced a ceiling fan with a regular light a while back that originally had 2 switches that worked it. When I was done only one switch worked, I was okay with this because I didn't use the other switch anyway. Well yesterday I removed the switch (the non used one) to put a blank plate on the wall. (To get rid of the switched that were of no use). So I capped off all wires from the switch, but now I can't use the original switch I'd been using. (It makes sense that I cause disruption in the way things connected it just didn't occur to me that it would happen). What can I do to make connection behind this plate without putting a switch back in, if anything?

The red and the black at the bottom are the hot, nothing on the others. There are three sets of wires, any help would be appreciative. They can be labeled as A B and C.


texts: Using leveling compound on plywood subfloor (second story)

texts:
I am doing an installation of 1/2" engineered hardwood on the second story of my home.
Checking the plywood subfloor for true and level, I found a pretty big dip (1/2")

Is this scenario an appropriate use of self-leveling compound? If so do I need to tape the seam so it doesn't leak through or is viscous enough and doesn't matter.

Could this be made level with stacked pieces of 15# felt or is this not appropriate? I read that online, but am not sure if I want to trust it.


texts: Why is water collecting in the base of my furnace?

texts: I changed my filter the other day and noticed a pool of water in the bottom of the furnace, below the filter. The humidifier has been off so that's not the issue. I removed the furnace panels and see water coming off the hoses that seem to collect to the intake/exhaust pipes (picture below). BTW, this is a high efficiency furnace, and is only 3 years old. The condensation drain pipe is bone dry so I thought perhaps it could be clogged, but would it drain during the winter when humidifier is off? Fortunately the electronics are dry. Any ideas on what's going on would be greatly appreciated. Here are a couple photos


texts: Should I move the furnace upstairs to help cool the 2nd story?

texts:
My wife and I live in a two story, 1400 sqft home. Recently, our 24 year old HVAC system died on us and we've been recommended by three different independent repair guys to replace the system rather than fix it since the brand that was installed is not that great to begin with. Since this is what we have come to terms with we want to install the right system for our house. One of the issues we always had before which I know most two story homeowners have is the inability to effectively cool down the 2nd story. Currently, the attic has no attic fans. We've had three A/C installers come out to quote us a new system and as to be expected, all came up with a different solution.

The first one (local contractor) was the cheapest and most basic which was to simply replace our current condenser unit, and forced air unit with new Trane models, 13 seer, 3 ton. This was going to be $6300 out the door.

The second contractor (EconoAir through Costco) offered a package that includes replacing the forced air and condenser, but also moving the furnace to the upstairs in our attic, replacing all the ducting with brand new ones, running new gas and electrical, replacing all the registers in the house, installing an attic ladder and relocating the opening to the attic. The brand they use is Lennox and the installer seemed to think moving the furnace to the attic would definitely solve our 2nd story heat issue because the return would be up there and it would be easier for the cool air to move about upstairs. They want about $13K for this system. The package details include, "High performance coil system, oversized suction and liquid drier to clean up a/c system, honeywell prestige flat screen thermostat, complete accoustical sound with oversized returns, Merv 16 air purifier system, complete new plenum system, new free flow high velocity bar type or curve blade registers, all metal wrapped in a commercial fsk wrap, oversized feeders hardwired at the furnace w/ new breakers, new high voltage disconnect w/ new breaker and oversized main feeder, accoustical sound technology for compressor, voltage booster, new stainless steel gas lines installed w new shut off valve, new b-vent cap with collar, install new bacteriostatic, oversized, energy efficient mylar duct system with air balance."

The third contractor offered a package that would replace the condenser with a 15 seer condenser, 3 ton unit (Trane) and would keep it downstairs (though they were willing to move up stairs for $3500), put in an "air accelerator" in the ducts in the attic that would basically help to pull up the cool air from downstairs, as well as an attic fan. Their system would cost out the door about $8600. They also offer lifetime warranty on labor for their system.

--
Basically what I'm trying to figure out is what is the best option for our home to get a new system installed that will sufficiently cool the 2nd story. We plan on being in the house at least another 5 years or so.


texts: Can I build a gravel driveway over sand?

texts:
There is a large quantity of sand where I would like to build a gravel drive. The sand is not super deep, only an inch or two at its deepest points, but I cannot find any quick way to remove it. Much of it is compacted as well. I was considering just dumping 4 inches of #8 gravel on top of this sand base, which like I said, seems quite stable even in the rain. My big questions are:

Will dumping this gravel over the sand weight it down and stop the sand from blowing around when it gets windy? I'm trying to keep sand from getting all over my cars.

Are there any inherent problems with doing this? (Note: I don't need this driveway to last forever, a couple years of life would be just fine)

Any other suggestions?

Thanks for any assistance!


texts: I had a Lennox slp98dfv installed last year - it has a surelight ignition - it now just blows cold air - so I assume the pilot light is out - but not sure how to light it - as u cannot manually ignite the burners - any thoughts before I call in the repairman?


texts: We have a flat roof (very low slope) made from gravel and tar, it's a little roof over the porch of the house. When it's raining, the water leaks under the soffit on the right corner, where is the less elevated part. There was almost no water that went into the gutter. I removed the loose gravel to see what was going on and I discovered a pothole in the asphalt. I spilled water in it and the water exited by the soffit, it did not overflow over the flashing in the gutter. I noticed that the gravel was loose everywhere in the roof perimeter leaving a clear gap under the flashing and the roof membrane. I started to patch some of the big gaps with plastic cement. I finally applied a non fibrous coating over some part of the joint that has smaller gap thinking that it will do the job. Then,the liquid coating was "swallowed" under the flashing and fell in the gutter making a big mess... So my question is, should the flashing be sealed all along the perimeter, if yes, how should I do that ? Plastic cement seems to have its limits. Am I missing something? Is the water drainage is supposed to be done under the flashing to fall in the gutter and there is a problem somewhere else, like with the fascia and sheating joint ? The roof age is unknown but it is probably due to be redone. My goal is to patch it to last 2 or 3 more years because we will probably demolish this structure anyway to build something else in a near future. In the meanwhile I would like to avoid the structure to collapse or being dangerous since the wood structure may have started to rot.


texts:
I bought a new home couple of month ago and need to install humidifier. After reading some blogs i am confused that i need humidifier for winter only or for winter and summer ( for AC and heat). Attempted unsuccessful search on Google to find one for both AC and heat. Not sure if it exist. My house is 2500 sqft located in Washington DC(USA) area. I have two units one for ground and main level and second for top floor. Questions in my mind are, what humidifier( Honeywell/Aprilaire etc.) should i buy and of what capacity, Do i need to buy for both units, which one is best (by-pass duct/in duct), Do i even need it for summer.

Appreciate suggestions !!


texts:
I recently noticed that the steps on my front door appear to be moving away from my house.

The gap is large enough that some small critters appear to be getting in the gap to setup a nice home for themselves.

The question I have is, what should I do? Should I just fill in the gap? Is this something that requires professional attention?


texts: I had a leak in my roof and now a water stain on my ceiling. My ceiling is not painted. Can I seal the stain with a primer and then cover it with thinned joint compound so it matches the color?


texts:
I have a 200 amp main panel
I want to run a 100 amp service  from the 200 to my garage.
There's  nothing  on the 200 amp panel other than security cameras  and lights.
Do I need to install a 100 amp breaker  in the 200 amp maln to do this ?


texts: Can a 27 inch stackable washer and dryer be safely installed in a slightly over 27 inch opening?

texts:
I have an opening in the bathroom which is slightly more than 27 inches. Height is not an issue, nor is the depth. I've looked at 25 inch and under stackables, and their capacities are just too small for our family. Is it safe to install a 27 inch stackable washer and dryer in this space? I've seen some places recommend 1 inch clearance on both sides, and a post here that seemed to indicate you could have zero inches of clearance. Going to a 27 inch size opens up a lot more options for me, including combos, and greater capacity. But before I make the purchase, I'm looking for some "expert" advice.
The side walls do have drywall on them, I believe 1/2 inch, and are on-load bearing 2x4 framing. I'm thinking also that if I needed to make the opening wider, I could remove the drywall and trim back the 2x4s a bit to compensate. Thoughts?


texts: Why is the water from my cold water taps warm?

texts: My cold water from kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower is warm in summer months during sunlight hours.  It is the expected temperature (cool) in the morning and at night.  Logic says to me that some how my inside water temperature is related to the outside air temperature.  Is this possible, or could you help me to understand what could be causing this warm water situation?


texts: Cold feed through hot side of water heater?

texts:
Edit: Based on response, I needed to clarify a few things...

I was recently trying to drain my hot water tank. I turned off the cold supply, opened up a few hot faucets, started draining, but it seemed as though it was taking forever, much longer than the 40-gallon capacity would need.

Convinced something was wrong, I detached the hot line, and then turned the house supply on - WITH THE TANK SUPPLY OFF - and cold water came gushing through the normally hot outbound side! Turned it back off, no more water. For a time, I became convinced the builder's plumber put the tank's supply cutoff on the wrong line.

With the house water turned off, the tank drained in just a few minutes. When I detached the cold line, then restarted the water, the cutoff line held (confirming that valve was not leaking), and cold inbound water continued to come out the normally hot outbound side.

I'm no plumbing expert, but the only thing I could infer is that supply water is jumping onto the hot side, and that would presumably only occur where the two would physically mix, such as in a single-handle faucet cartridge/pressure balancer. Is there some other possibility I'm missing?


texts: Our home is plumbed with PEX tubing, from what I can tell.  When summer started, the shower started running hotter, so we turned down the shower lower and lower.  But when we reached a certain place on the shower dial, the water began to pulse - almost like a massaging shower head, but much slower.  (In case you're wondering, yes, there is a massaging head, but it is definitely off when this happens.)  If we turn the water up or down from this "goldilocks temperature" (which is of course the most comfortable temperature), the pulsing stops.  Any ideas?


texts: How Do I Disconnect This Plastic Wire Connector?

texts: I am trying to disassemble my Kenmore Elite clothes dryer so I can test the thermal fuse. I need to disconnect wires that are held together with a plastic wire connector. Can anyone tell me how I get this specific connector to disconnect? (See pic in link) Thanks!


texts: Need tips, approach, or method(s) to eliminate smell/odor in a closet short of a tear down?

texts:
Here's some background:

We bought this house in July of 2017. The previous owner left a hall closet full of GNC-style product (it was packed with pills of all kinds). It primarily smells of those heavy iron supplement type of odor if you can imagine. We called our realtor, and he came and emptied it.

To our unpleasant suprise, the closet smelled like the products a month after it was emptied.

It is now December of 2019 and it still smells, it's at least tolerable but that is hard to say, especially when any towel brought out of it carries the smell, or walking past the door in the hallway (with it closed) you can catch a whiff.

The house was built in 1986. It is a Ranch. The closet door is a solid closet builder door, with a dark stain and coating.

What We've Tried:

First Month with nothing in it: Vaccuum and bleach, as well as Lysol.
Washed down all walls, ceiling, woodwork, and shelves.
Soap and water, bleach treatment two, dried, and began using the closet for items such as linens and toilet paper
Tolerated the smell for 6-9 months.
Emptied the closet, and re-did #1 above.
Used Simple Green as in #2.
Washed all linens and put back in closet.
Tolerated the smell for about another ~9-10 months.
Re-did #5.
Removed all shelves and painted the enitre closet. Ceiling, Walls, and the shelves, as well as the woodwork securing the shelves.
Used Pine-sol on the Door and Door Frame & Trim.
Re-did #7 & added Cedar cut-outs.
It smelled more of dried paint for a few days-weeks, but still had an odor of vitamins.
Tolerated it for another ~9 months and here we are....

I've considered ripping out the drywall. Is this where I am now? Should I buy Killz and go at it again or is such an approach a waste of time? Can I seal it or lock it out? Can I neutralize it, if so, with what chemical? I'm not asking for a product recommendation per-se, but any approach or solution you may have some experience with I'll give it a shot.

I've considered that it isn't the walls or shelves at all at this point *(since they are painted). I have considered it may be the DOOR & Framing, or the wood the framing is mounted to breathing into the space.

The closet has no ventilation outside of the DOOR entry points, which the smell is ONLY in the closet. It is not in the hall. Do I have to remove the door framing and replace it or do something to it, or is it actually still able to breath through the acrylic paint?


texts: Is the carpet in my condo one solid continuous piece?

texts: I ask this question more to satisfy my curiosity than to tend to a pressing need. But looking at the carpet in my condo (two bedroom) I don't notice any cuts in it. Was it installed as one continuous piece?


texts:
I understand that I need to use both glue and nails for the engineered wood flooring to not fall off the stairs, but how do I hide the nails?

Also which glue and nails are best to use?


texts: GU24 to E26 light socket adapter -- any risks?

texts:
I recently moved to a new location where instead of the common E26 light sockets, they have GU24 light sockets. This is a bit of a problem for me, because I like to use edison-style incandescent bulbs, and I find their warm color and low luminescence most palatable for evening indoor lighting.

I checked the GU24 socket, and it says 660 W. But on the light fixtures there is a sticker that says "MAX. 13-watt. Risk of fire". I'm very new to home improvement, and I'm not sure exactly how to interpret this.

If I buy a GU24 to E26 adapter and install a 30- or 60-watt incandescent in it:

Is there a risk of fire because the fixture can't handle the heat produced
by a 14+ watt light bulb?
Is there still a risk if I remove the glass fixture and just screw the light bulb into the adapter?
Would a 14+ watt light bulb potentially cause overheating in the actual electrical wires/their plastic sleeves?

I've added a few pictures to show the fixture and the socket. The "MAX." sticker is attached to a plastic ring that keeps the glass fixture in place.


texts: What amp breaker for 20 Amp electrical oven and 40 Amp electrical range on same circuit

texts:
What amp breaker should I use for a 20 Amp electrical oven and a 40 Amp range?
Currently, I have a 6 gauge wire and a 50 Amp breaker, and my current electrical cooktop and electrical oven are both hooked up to this.
I want to replace my current cooktop and oven with a 40 amp electric cooktop (induction-type) and a 20 amp electric oven.
Do I need to update my 50 Amp breaker to be a 60 Amp breaker because the total of the two new appliances is 60 amps?  Would the resulting system (6 gauge wire and 60 Amp fuse) be safe for the combined cooktop and oven and within California code?
If helpful, the model and electrical specifications for the two appliances are listed below.
Frigidaire Professional 30'' Induction Cooktop

Amps @ 240 Volts: 35.0 / 35.1
Connected Load (kW Rating) @ 240V: 8.4 / 7.3
Minimum Circuit Required (Amps): 40A
Power Supply Connection Location: Right Rear
Voltage Rating: 240V / 208V, 60Hz

Frigidaire Professional 30'' Single Electric Wall Oven

Amps @ 240 Volts: 20.8 / 18.3
Connected Load (kW Rating) @ 240V: 5.0 / 3.8
Minimum Circuit Required (Amps): 20A
Power Supply Connection Location: Left Rear Bottom
Voltage Rating: 240V / 208V, 60Hz


texts: Can I use the existing rigid copper plumbing when replacing a water heater?

texts:
We have a 40 gal RUDD water heater installed in 1997. We are thinking of replacing it before it starts leaking. The existing plumbing is with rigid copper, with an expansion tank connected on the vertical run of the pipe.

If I buy a replacement with the same distance between hot and cold water pipes, can I reuse the existing rigid connections (I might have to cut it short on the vertical run due to height difference between the old and new (new heaters are taller by few inches), instead of using flexible pipes as recommended on many sites.

The reason to go for rigid pipes is to give extra support to the expansion tank.


texts: Cut steel fascia board cover lengthwise?

texts:
I am wrapping a porch beam with white steel fascia board cover. The height of the space I need to cover is about an inch less than what the fascia board cover is. So I need to basically cut an inch off the entire length of steel for this beam. It's about 28 linear feet of material.

I am afraid using tin snips would crinkle the material.  I am thinking of a cutting disc on an angle grinder but that's going to make a heck of a mess and brings in potential for not getting a straight cut. A skill saw with a carbon blade would mar the paint in a heart beat, it seems like it's so easy to scratch. Any other ideas I have not considered?


texts: How to repair a brass toilet flange connected to a lead pipe

texts:
I went to replace a toilet recently and I found the following situation (images below):

The toilet flange was brass and connected to a lead pipe
The brass flange had a crack in it, possibly because
A previous repair had crammed steel inserts under the brass flange.
These inserts were totally rusted to a black/brown, crumbly, mess.
There was a pvc wax-less seal stuck in the middle of the flange.

There was no way to install a new toilet with this mess, so I removed the rusted inserts and wax-less seal. Then, I hammered the brass back into place and installed the toilet with a wax ring. It seems to be working alright for now.

However, because the brass is cracked, this won't be a long-term fix. The "right way" to fix this would be to replace the flange with another brass one. What steps are required for this? Does it look like the lead pipe is soldered to the flange? I have actually brazed brass before, so I'd at least consider doing this type of repair on my own.

Short of doing things the right way, do people have any suggested fixes? I could imagine leveling the top of the flange and putting some sort of repair ring (like a SuperRing) on top. If it's not too hard to separate the flange from the pipe, I could also imagine installing a new, expanding flange in its place. (Although maybe the expanding flange would damage the pipe? Also, the pipe immediately does a 90 degree bend, so maybe I wouldn't be able to get a good seal with an expanding flange.)

Initial top view:
Initial left-side view (that brown stuff is actually rusted steel):
Initial right-side view:
Top view after cleaning:
Left-side view after cleaning:
Close up of joint between the pipe and flange --- possibly showing poured lead or solder between the two?

I do not have access from below. It would also be extra complicated to replace because the drain pipe from the sink joins the lead pipe a few inches below the flange (would be visible in the fourth picture if the contrast were better), so that would have to be replaced too.


texts: Can a dryer exhaust through PVC in a slab?

texts:
I have a single story home in California, with a concrete slab foundation and a laundry room located in the hallway. The dryer vent connection is just a PVC pipe running down into the slab, and then in the front of our home, there is a 90 degree PVC bend that spits out the exhaust (and sometimes some lint):

Now, I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure that's not how dryer vents should work. Seeing as I can't really dig up the slab or anything crazy, should I:

a) Continue using this vent, if it's safe to do so? If so, should I put a screen or something to keep critters/bugs out?
b) Hire a contractor/handyman and run a new vent through the wall/attic, and out to the side of the house somewhere?


texts: Can you drill through Titebond 3 wood glue without breaking its seal?

texts:
I have a wooden table that I bought broken and have attempted to fix. I have used Titebond 3 to glue the broken foot back onto the leg.

What concerns me is that Titebond 3 states on the bottle that it should not be used for anything that is "load-bearing".  The man I bought the table from suggested gluing, then drilling a hole through the leg and foot, then gluing a dowel inside the hole (presumably to strengthen the broken joint). I have a 5/8 dowel and drill bit ready to go but I'm concerned about drilling through the Titebond 3 glue already in place. Would the glue still hold throughout the drilling process? Or would it damage the wood in any further way? Alternatively, would Titebond 3 glue hold a table up without the need for drilling?


texts: Replacing Door Sweep in Track from House to Garage?

texts:
There is an anomalous door sweep/pad (I'm not really sure what it is honestly) in the door track leading from our house to the garage. (I would call it the garage door, but this might lead to confusion)

It recently cracked from nearly 23 years of use and needs to be replaced soon.

What is it and how can I replace it? Images below:


texts: What should I replace this broken condensate line connection with?

texts:
This is on the condensation hose coming off of a 3" PVC pipe which I think is an exhaust for my HVAC system. The tube runs to a little electric pump on the floor that sends any collected water to a nearby drain. It looks like maybe a Brass PEX fitting reducer?
I measured with calipers and the OD of the bolt is 0.9", the OD of the PVC it screws into is 1.1", and the OD of the tubing is 0.42"
Does anyone know what I'd replace this with?


texts: Midway Neutral disconnects whole house supply

texts:
We have pretty good electrical wiring as an electronics hardware lecturer has recently changed certain wiring. Recently at one switch box in the mid-point of the house electrical wiring, when a neutral wire was disconnected, the whole house electrical supply got disconnected for a reason I don't understand.
And, whenever a small load is connected, the voltage drops, lights dim, and certain devices like the TV stop working!

Can anyone diagnose the problem? Some friend suggested a loose contact with the neutral. Could this be the culprit?


texts: Ceiling lights (fluorescent) takes too long to light

texts: My kitchen fluorescent ceiling light does not come on and another (smaller) fluorescent over sink is dim. Both come on later. Now my dishwasher won't come on. When the lights came on, the dishwasher lights came on for a few seconds. I checked the breakers, and I turned them on and off. They seems to be okay. What gives???


texts: connecting 2 separate (heat/AC) to one thermostat

texts:
I already read thru possible answers from the list...

An older home just purchased. Oil burner, house water heat on demand when switch is 'ON'. Heat is hot water run from a pump that is controlled by a simple thermostat - 2 wires - that connect below the transformer on front of the burner with heat exchanger coils inside hot box. Baseboard is an open loop that goes through the entire house in series - nice crawl space. Seems the thermostat is bad cause it is constant heat when unit is on. I tried running the thermostat up and down several times and it seemed as no switching took place - temp in house was close to 80F at the time and I could not shut off the heat. Simple mercury switch with coil... I'm hoping it is the switch.

Some years later they installed an AC unit in the overhead crawl space - compressor outside on slab. Completely separate everything. Has digital readout. Fan switch is AUTO/ON, cooling switch is OFF/ON, two arrows to set temp up/down buttons.

The AC is ducted to an overhead circular vent in center of every room in the house - one level - and the return is a rectangular open screen located at the end of a central hallway.

I need to replace heat switch - in dining room 50' from AC controller that is near the AC return vent opposite end of house. I'm thinking about combining them so that when heat is called for, the circ pump will come on, and my belief is that by adding the central fan running it will be more efficient in heating the house.

Anyone have a thought if this is wise? And then, with nothing more than 2 wire go-no go wiring system for the heat, can I combine this and the AC to a common controller such that the central fan runs when heat is called for?

sheesh, I need a 'tag' but it won't accept any...


texts: how to wire a 2 way switches with 2 pendants

texts: How do I wire a 2way 2light system. On the upstairs landing I want to switch 2 lights on and off at each end of the corridor.


texts: GFI outlet vs breakers, maintenance needed

texts:
I have a house with a Square D QO Load center breaker box, circa 1973.
Over the years there's been some remodeling done and some circuits added.  Everything was done to whatever code was in effect at the time.
What I have now is the following - every breaker in the panel is 20A (and yes all of the electrical wiring in the house is 12ga) except for 2 that are going to the most recent remodel bit which is a finished basement bedroom (those are 15A)
At some point the garage breaker was replaced with a Square D "yellow test button" GFCI breaker most likely because a prior owner moved the washer and dryer from an upstairs closet (which obviously housed a stacked unit) to the garage.  I am not unhappy with this as I prefer standard appliances not weird small stacked stuff that had super expensive repair parts.  In addition to the washer and dryer there is a refrigerator on the garage circuit along with an APC UPS that feeds networking gear used for the internet connection and wifi in the house.
The two 15a breakers going to the basement bedroom are "green test button" AFCI breakers
All other breakers are standard breakers.
The only other 2 GFCI outlets in the home are in the kitchen next to the sink.
This is a vacation house in a resort community and we rent it out.  We visit it at least once a month.  When we were out there last week I discovered one of the GFCI outlets had failed, and a secondary outlet that comes off that outlet was also dead.  (mechanical failure of the test button causing the outlet to be dead)
I was unable to find a new replacement GFCI outlet of the correct color and amperage for what passes for hardware stores there.  And after driving 30 minutes to the closest Home Depot I discover they are out of stock as well.  This kind of thing is not uncommon out there and it is typical that I have to buy parts in advance from the city I live in before visiting.  So I replaced the outlet with a standard outlet.
Now I am trying to decide how best to repair this setup.  The first obvious answer is to replace the outlet with a GFCI.  But I really dislike that because my experience with GFCI outlets is that they are cheaply made mass-market devices that sometimes nuisance trip, and they introduce additional mechanical failure points.
The next obvious answer is to replace the breaker with the outlet is on with a modern GFCI/AFCI combo breaker (purple test button).  My concern with that, however, is that the kitchen refrigerator is on that circuit, as well as a natural gas range.  There is also a microwave oven but that is on a separate circuit, as is a dishwasher.  The advantage of leaving the breaker as is, is that if the GFCI in the wall triggers it won't kill the power to the refrigerator and range.
I'm also wondering if I should take the opportunity to while at the same time as replacing that breaker I would replace the existing "yellow test button" breaker with a combo "purple button" breaker.  It has nuisance tripped on me a few times during power outages (for whatever reason the utility - Pacific Power - seems to really have terrible power quality on recovery from power outages) however it is feeding garage outlets that have motors on them (refrigerator compressor, washer/dryer, hand drill, weed wacker and a couple of other 1/4hp inductive motors that run a bench grinder and buffing wheel.)
And yes I have read all of the propaganda that the breaker companies have fixed all of the problems with nuisance tripping but it is very difficult to find testimonials and field feedback that are current. That's really what I'm asking about.


texts: Ceiling fan requires fewer wires than available in box

texts: I have a Hunter ceiling fan with no light and a remote. At the ceiling box I have green, white, black and red wires. The fan has green, white and black wires. Which of the wires in the ceiling box should I cap - the red or black?


texts: What is this balloon with "eyes" printed on it, hanging from the eave on this house?

texts: I have seen this, or something very similar on various houses in the city I live in.  It is rare enough to be remarkable, but common enough to make me think it is a "thing".  Any ideas?


texts:
I have a tiny bathroom for the toilet, perhaps 83 cu ft adjacent to the master bathroom for the shower and tub, perhaps 1266 cu ft. Currently only the toilet has a vent with a fan. It’s being removed in the remodel. I’m adding an exhaust register to the main bathroom and I’d like to vent both rooms with a single 8” 210CFM in-line duct fan.

Since the toilet is so much smaller, should I restrict its airflow with a smaller pipe ex 3” vs the main bathroom 6”? Then have them meet at a wye before the in-line fan which would exhaust out via a 6” pipe?

Obviously I want more air to be pulled from the larger space but want to do that while maximizing the in-line fans capabilities.

Lastly, would the damper, to restrict backdraft, go after the fan or before?


texts: Can I convert a 3-way switch that switches half duplex outlets into an outlet?

texts:
I have a room where all the wall outlets are half switched, bottom half always hot, top half are run by two 3-way switches. One of the 3-way switches is on a wall I am removing and turning into a pony wall. Instead of just wiring it together and hiding it in a junction box can I convert one of those switches and turn it into a wall outlet while retaining the ability of the other switch to switch the half outlets? The switch I want to convert is not the one that receives power, it's at the end of the line. It is a 3 + ground wire.

The 3 way switch that I'm leaving that is the start of the line with power coming in has black bottom right, red bottom left and black top left. Inside that box a red and white are connected with a wire nuts.

The wall plugs are all snipped on power side with red on top, black on bottom and both whites connected.


texts: A plumber left the job in the middle, how do I close out the job?

texts:
This question is cross posted https://law.stackexchange.com/questions/13995/a-plumber-left-the-job-in-the-middle-how-do-i-close-out-the-job because it was put on hold as off topic for DIY.  (It has gotten more views on DIY than on LAW.  I suggest reopening it here.)

I gave a plumber $2,000.  That is about half of the price on his proposal.

The plumber is no longer on the job. (See Plumber asking for a lot more money, after starting work.)

What steps should I take to do the following:
A. Make sure the plumber does not put a lien on my property for the full price.
B. Get a refund of the money not used.  (The plumber was here for 4 hours w an assistant and bought some 50 feel of 2" black pipe and fittings. That probably does not cost $2,000.)

Would taking him to small claims court be a reasonable way to get the job closed out?


texts:
The title, more or less, sums it up. I plan to bury some THHN/THWN-2 feeders, and my jurisdiction allows a 6" bury depth if I use IMC or RMC. I plan to use IMC, which comes with both a male and female threaded end. Do I need to use any sealant on these threads to prevent water ingress?

Unfortunately, I don't think I will be lucky enough to avoid cutting any conduit to get the length I need. How do I couple unthreaded IMC underground? Do I need to use liquid-tight fittings?

My guess is that I don't need any sealants or special fittings because the THWN-2 wires are suitable for wet locations, but I'd like to make sure, in case I need to order special fittings.


texts: Should my AC condenser and evaporator be the same size?

texts:
It's difficult to find a consistent straight answer on this. I asked earlier today on Reddit, and was told "It’s common to upsize the indoor (evaporator) coil to get greater efficiency".

When I search "next size up evaporator greater efficiency", these are the top results:

"Yes, it’s bad if your evaporator coils are sized bigger or smaller than your condenser coils."
People arguing 9 years ago on a forum about whether you want the condenser smaller or larger. Little agreement suggests people don't know what they're talking about.
"Matching Evaporator and Condenser Coils – An Absolute Must"

Number 6 says "Mismatched Coils Can Really Mess Things Up". Number 5 says "I usually go a half ton larger on the evap coil. The added surface area slows airflow and you get better heat and dehumidification.", while the answer to "Can you Oversize an evaporator coil?" says the exact opposite: "After extensive research, we have found that having a matched or oversized evaporator coil will not control humidity enough. Rather it increases the humidity level in the home, especially at night. The reason is that the evaporator cannot get cold enough to properly dehumidify the air, causing your air to feel sticky and humid."

I've tried other search phrases, and the results are generally the same: all over the place. I think this is a representative sample, so I won't bother exhaustively listing them all.

What's the truth? Is there any evidence to back up the claims of a particular side?


texts: Moved into a house with a pine staircase, it appears that the previous owners were in the middle of finishing/refinishing the steps (some stairs appear to have a clear coat and others appear to be just sanded.) We would like to save the steps(stain),but unsure how to proceed. Any and all help/advise would be appreciated.


texts: Using a window air conditioner outside and redirecting the cold air into room with ducts

texts: So I plan on using two ducts, one to take air from my room and move it to the cooling coils of the air conditioner, and another duct to redirect the cold air from the window air conditioner back into my room. The window air conditioner will be located outdoors next to my room. I might use fans to help with air flow if the air conditioner's fan is not strong enough. Can someone tell me why this is a bad idea and how to go about constructing it well?


texts: The boiler is on; the pipe near the boiler is hot, but the pipes furthest away are cold. What does that mean, and how can I fix it?