texts: Cutting powder coated steel - how do I prevent rust?

texts:
We have a series of powder-coated electrical cupboards that need to be cut open to install recessed components. The exact product description can be found on the manufacturer's website.
The manufacturer describes the material as such (abbreviated for brevity) :

1.2 mm mild steel for enclosures ... Folded and seam welded ... Structured powder coating ... For outdoor installation, the use of a
rain hood ARF and 100% polyester paint coating is recommended. The
corrosion resistance must be taken into consideration.

The enclosures will be installed indoors but are expected to attain a service life of at least 20 years.
We want to install an embedded touch screen in the door and also install air vents and a cooling system on the side. This requires cutting openings in the door and sides.
How do I prevent the fresh steel around the cutouts from rusting?
From what I've found on the internet, it seems the best option is to re-powder-coat where we have cut (but I don't know how to do that), I was hoping for an easier solution :

A spray-paint type product?
A tar based plumbing product, maybe?


texts: In Canada (Ontario, specifically), is 'CL2' rated cable acceptable for in-wall installation?

texts:
I've got a bunch of cable to install in the wall for my basement reno and have an excellent source for various cable types (speaker, video, cat6, etc), but the cable 'only' has the US CL2 rating, and no marked CSA ratings.

Ontario electrical code calls for cable with at least a CSA FT-1 rating for in-wall installations.  From what I can find, it seems like CL2 is more-or-less equivalent to FT-4, and FT-4 has more stringent testing than FT-1 and can be used in places that only require an FT-1 rating.

Is the CL2 label sufficient to meet code (and pass inspection) for in-wall installations in Ontario?  ie: do inspectors/code accept US classifications?

For reference: this page (from a cable distributor) has a decent summary of the plethora of ratings available.


texts: Replacing Electric Cooktop 30A #10 Wire (manual says needs #8 wire)

texts:
Really struggling to find a 30A electric cooktop, most of them are 40A and we have the Jenn Air JEC9530 that is running on two #10 wires to a double 30A breaker.

I finally found a cooktop that says it only requires 30A, but the manual says it must be run on #8 wire.

I do not know what I should do, the electric line for my cooktop runs from my kitchen through the foundation all the way to (who knows where) before finally ending up in the breaker box on the far side of the garage wall.

Edit: I just looked at the serial plate for the JEC9530 and it says 7.5kW which should be a 40amp breaker right?  Yet it's running on a dual 30A breaker with #10 wire...

Edit 2: We are looking at two cooktops, G9CE3065XB or LCE3010SB.  I found a manual that states the G9CE3065XB will run on a 30A breaker fused at both ends but the manual still says #8 wire.   Here's a link to that manual, search for G9CE3065 https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/81/816870c8-4d4b-431b-916f-6ad03d647630.pdf


texts: Why does a wall plug show only 20V instead of 120V?

texts: I have two outlets that test at 20V, or sometimes 60V.  They should be 120V.


texts: What thickness, size, and quality plywood is required for an aviary floor?

texts: 12'L x 5'D x8'H size aviary needs what thickness plywood to hold human weight. Aviary floor is slightly elevated from the ground. Also, please specify how many floor joists it needs to hold the weight perfectly.


texts: Can I use both a concrete slab and crawl space foundation?

texts: I plan on building a large shop building on my property and while I want the main shop area to be a thick concrete slab, it would be great if I can make the adjoining rooms have a crawl space-like foundation to save on the cost of the required concrete.  Is this something that is done and would be allowed? I am learning as I go so sorry if this is a stupid question.


texts: Dusk to dawn light goes out when heat pump starts up

texts: My pole dusk to dawn light goes out when my heat pump starts up.  The lights in the house will flicker and the outside pole light goes out, then about 5 minutes later it come back on.  When the heat pump starts up it goes out again.  Off and on all night long.


texts: Do any home thermostats have an adjustable control range?

texts: I am having trouble with AC and need to replace it soon ; so I have been listening to it cycle .I knew it only stayed on a short time but I just found it runs less the 2 minutes ; that is with temperatures above 90 F and high humidity ( think Houston TX). So - on for 90 to 120 seconds , then off 10 to 15 minutes .The set temperature is 76 F and an infrared thermometer shows about everything in the house is close to 76 except the aluminum window frames are about 82 F. So the AC starts about 75 to 100 times a day in hot weather. No wonder the "start" capacitor has been replaced about 4 times in 13 years. The unit is 5 tons and the house is 2500 sq.ft. I plan to replace it with a 4 ton unit ; but my question is can I find a thermostat that will decrease the number of start cycles .  Then instead of the house temperature cycling from 76.2 down to 75.8 F ( an educated guess)  it will cycle from 76.5 down to 75.5 F.


texts:
First, disclaimer: Not an electrician. I'm doing a bit of home wiring, and wanted to make sure my setup for a 3 way switch w/ dimmers works. If anyone sees problems, has complaints, knows a more elegant way, etc, please let me know. I'm always willing to take criticism.
So here is what I'm trying to do: There will be three rows of dimmable LED lights. Each row has 3 lights.
Each row needs to be able to be shut off or dimmed independently of the other. Additionally, they must be able to be shut off from another switch that is located elsewhere.
The easiest way I could think of to accomplish this was with another three way switch between the dimmers and other switch. I've attached a tentative diagram of what my plan is; I apologize if the colors are strange, I know neutral is usually white, but I was on a white background so I went with orange.
The remote location is at the bottom of the stairs. There is an open stairwell which leads to a large open format room(as of yet unfinished) where the lights are. Very often I forget to shut off the work light as I leave since I need it to see getting down the stairs. It is similarly convenient to have the lights on in the room going up. Thus one switch at the bottom that I can hit if I'm leaving, or if I'm going up. I did consider using three switches, since it is probably simpler, but it seems silly to put three switches for my use.
I'm not married to the second, regular switch in there. I'm just not exactly sure the best way to make this work without it. If anyone has any pointers for that I'd be really appreciative.


texts: What kind of filter do I need for well water?

texts: I live in Norway, and have well water at my cabin. In winter the water is fresh tasting and clear, while during warm periods in summer it gets more humus and its taste gets worse. I assume there may be harmful microorganisms in it as well as the visible humus. What kind of filter do I need to get rid of both the humus and any microorganisms?


texts: silicone caulking at uneven tight tile joints / gap

texts: We have uneven joints around the tub and shower wall. How can we best caulk silicone? Is there any tricks or recommended tools? We are worried about the tight spots.


texts: How to remove turn-style tub overflow cover?

texts:
I've tried looking all over for a solution, but I've yet to find a solution that matches my situation.  The cover I have (I think) is supposed to turn so the hole is downwards so you can remove the screw to remove the cap.  However, this unit seems to be (somehow) installed upside-down.  The cap can rotate easily from the 12 o'clock to the 3 o'clock, but there's a rim inside that's mostly covering the screw inside.  I can also turn the cap (with some effort) from 12 o'clock to 10 o'clock but it sounds like something is cracking or grinding when I do.

I also tried removing the screw despite the metal rim inside, but it just loosened until it was pressing against that rim and wouldn't come out any more.

In case anyone is wondering, I'm trying to remove it because I think there's leaking happening behind there.

As requested, here's a closer picture of the hole in the cap.  I highlighted the screw head as it's hard to see.  You can see that the screw head in mostly covered by the stationary metal rim.


texts: weird sink symptom: drips, and supply lines have no effect

texts:
Our bathroom faucet has had a slow drip for ages, so I decide to finally fix it.  (It's a one-knob faucet.)

I run the water, go underneath and turn the cold-water supply off, and the tap water suddenly turns grey for a minute -- presumably I'm dislodging a bunch of silt as I shut the supply-line.  Similarly for the other hot-water supply -- it turns grey for a minute (then clears), as I shut it off.

Mildly weird: even with both supply-lines closed and waiting several minutes, there is still dripping water, whether or not I have the sink turned on.  (And it still persists, more than a day later.)

Really weird: Not understanding the above symptom, I re-open the supply-lines.  BUT nothing happens -- no water (beyond the drip)!

At first I thought silt might have clogged the faucet, but that wouldn't explain why it drips after shutting off the supply-lines.

I have no idea what's happened.  It's like the supply-line-valves are both stuck at nearly-off?  But, I really don't think anything broke inside; when first closing the valves I had to give them a firm twist by hand, but nothing too surprising, and I didn't over-tighten them after that.

Any explanations for this behavior are welcome!


texts: Is it OK to use an AC power supply with output voltage lower than specified on the original power supply to recharge a cordless tool?

texts:
I need a new power supply for my Black and Decker GS500 3.6V DC cordless grass clipper. I have not been able to find a Black and Decker replacement power supply. The original power supply label shows output 8Vac 250 mA.

I have a power supply with the unit label showing output AC 6V 300mA. The no-load measured output is AC 7V.

My AC power supply voltage is 25% lower than the design input to the charging circuit. I am not clear as to how that impacts the output of the charging circuit and its ability to charge the 3.6V DC battery.

Is it OK to use the lower voltage power supply? Will I damage the clipper charging circuit or the power supply? Will the charging circuit try to draw more amps than the capacity of the power supply?

This question was asked in Electrical Engineering and put on hold as off-topic.

Edit 6/8/2019
The charging circuit consists of the power supply, the battery pack with 3 Ni Cd batteries, and a 4-inch long blue device (see image).
The black lead from the power supply is connected to the positive terminal of the battery pack.  The negative terminal of the battery pack is connected to one end of the blue device.  The other end of the blue device is connected to the black/white-stripe lead from the power supply.


texts:
My Amana gas clothes dryer is not heating properly. The gas ignites when the dryer is first started, but after the gas turns off the igniter glows and then turns off, without relighting the gas.

Many websites I found said that this was typically due to bad coils. I removed the coils and tested the resistance across the terminals. The resistances match example values I found.

Could the coils still be defective, or is it more likely that the gas valve is bad?


texts: Cold water coming out of hot tap - problem?

texts:
I am not a plumber.

When I close the hotwater outtake valve from the hot water cylinder, I had expected that hot water water would stop flowing from the hot taps/faucets. i.e I expected no water.

However, cold water flows instead from the hot tap.  If I open the hot water line valve, then hot water again flows from the hot tap.

Does this indicate a problem somewhere or is that expected behaviour? If it is a problem - is it one that should be addressed or can it be safely ignored? This is a rental property where the landlord strongly desires to repair nothing.

I have recently installed a washing machine, never made the above test prior to installation so unsure of relevance.


texts: How can I identify the manufacturer of my walk in bathtub?

texts: I saw another post that said there should be access to the electric panel, but I don’t see anything like that. Is there any other way to find out who made the tub?


texts: Do air compressor quick disconnects seal on both sides?

texts: I realize the air pressure quick disconnects are self-sealing, but do they seal on both the male and female end ? or is it only one way?


texts: What are the differences between these types of small-dimension lumber?

texts:
I have a project that needs smaller lumber, 1x4s, 1x3s, and 2x2s. This project is rough carpentry just a garage shelf. I have built one example of this shelf already. I did it over a year ago and I did not pay much attention when selecting materials. I have no idea what it cost or what I used! I want to be more careful this time.

When I look at the websites of the big-box stores to estimate my costs I see three types listed for this lumber and the approximate cost for an 8' length:

firring strips, $2
select grade, $10
pressure treated, $4

Why is there such a variation in price?

How can I tell which grade to get?

I assume that the select grade is straighter or has fewer defects. I expect the firring grade to be very rough and probably warped. Would the pressure treated be a compromise between cost and straightness?


texts: Here in Hampshire County, WV we are required to have 2 grounding rods.  Question #1 How deep do they need to be?  #2 This mountain was formed by a rock glacier before I was born.  I can drill down 18", but certainly not 6-8'.  Any ideas?


texts: What's wrong with my replacement fan motor?

texts:
I have one of those integrated bathroom 3-in-1 ceiling units (light, heat and exhaust fan).

Recently the fan spontaneously stopped working. I took the unit down to inspect the fan motor and took it to an electrical service person to see if it could be mended, or if not to hopefully source a replacement. The techie pronounced the motor dead and confirmed my fears that replacement parts are not available from the manufacturer, one typically has to replace the whole 3-in-1 unit.

I despise the disposable mindset of modern consumer appliances so I went looking for another solution. I found A/C fridge evaporator fan motors were widely available and one 'universal' motor from an online retailer that remarkably had the same dimensions for the mounting posts and similar appearance to my busted one (albeit much lighter), so I thought I would try that.

Original dead motor:

My adapted replacement:

The following specs are provided for the new motor:

  240Volts AC, 10Watt, 50/60Hz.
  Shaft length 30mm, shaft diameter 3.17mm,
  total depth 90mm from tip of shaft to back of mounting knob.

Here are the terminals on the 3-in-1 unit (plastic fan shroud with lamp sockets) with the fan removed. The original motor had two writes running into the right-hand-side of the Fan and Neutral terminals.

So I successfully fitted my new motor and connected the two wires to Fan and Neutral, but on hitting the switch, it didn't give so much as a twitch. I tried swapping the two wires (my understanding is for A/C motors this shouldn't make any difference) but it still didn't work.

My questions:

This should've worked, right? An A/C motor is an A/C motor, so a straight swap like this should be okay?
Have I killed my new motor? How does a motor like this (or particularly the original) die?
What kind of tests can I do to confirm whether my motor is in working condition, or was DOA, or to isolate the source of the problem elsewhere? I've done some simple continuity tests of the connecting wires but I don't know what else I can test. (I should have tried wiring it to Light to rule out any issue with the supply-side wiring, but I didn't think of it...)

Thanks in advance.

Edit: The 3-in-1 is an Airflow Sunshine model 6600A, manufactured by Clipsal. Here's a picture. It's seen on page 5 of this brochure. Also on page 25 of this catalogue with technical data, although the unit depicted is slightly different to mine. I've contacted Clipsal and they've said they don't provide parts (and it's a discontinued model).


texts: Is there a way to plug a NEMA 6-20P plug into a NEMA 10-30R receptacle?

texts: Is there a way to plug a 6-20p 208/220/250v plug into a 10-30r receptacle? I can't seem to find an adapter for this. I bought a 220v fahrenheat heater and want to be able to plug it into a range or dryer receptacle.


texts: Framing Advice - How to re-frame opening of non-load bearing wall

texts:
Just looking for some general framing advice and if my plans moving forward make sense.

I have cut an opening into an existing wall, non-load bearing.  Originally there was a doorway, which I have opened up much further and left a knee-wall remaining.  When I originally cut the opening, I did not realize that this through-wall continued past the door opening behind my pantry.  This combined with the fact the top plate of that wall is not solid (see first photo), makes me think I need to do something to better solidify the remaining top plate.

My plan is to just run a 12' 2x6 across the very top, unifying the top plate on the left, the segmented top plates, the x2 vertical 2x4's I've added, and the 2 remaining original studs.  On the bottom, I plan to  trim the hanging studs down so I can get a 2x4 running horizontally across the opening.  Finally, I was planning on running another 12' 2x4 across the bottom, similar to the 2x6, to unify the x2 2x4's that were running above the original doorway and the 2x4 I'm adding to the bottom.

Plan B:

Enough people (online and people I know) have uttered the phrase "Get rid of it all" that I'm reconsidering leaving the hanging partition.  It has aesthetic benefits as well as greatly simplifies the drywall finishing, so if it can be done correctly I will do that instead.

If I do that, I understand I need to finish the remaining wall with some vertical 2x4's.  This a little tricky for a few different reasons:

It immediately intersects another wall I wish to leave intact (only juts out <2")
It's currently finished with drywall
The sill plate stops for the opening, so any studs I add will go from the top plate (or header) to the flooring below, not the base plate.

My new idea is to add x3 pieces of wood.  1 jack stud to go beneath the header to the floor, 1 cripple stud to support the top plate from the header, and then a 3rd which would be a jackstud to the floor to the top plate.  I would sandwich all 3 together with some construction adhesive and #9 construction screws.

Further progress:

To take some mystery out of it I cut away some more drywall to reveal the header does stop right there.  So I could either run a brand new header as suggested, or just cut everything out completely, right?  I realize now if I run a new header I won't have a jack stud under it, unless I add 3rd 2x4 in there.  Not the end of the world


texts: Non-Permanent Air Conditioner for Townhomes

texts: I own my in townhome and my HOA specifies that I cannot have a through-wall or otherwise permanent air-conditioner. Additionally that window mounted units must be removed sometime in October. However the meager window mounted units are ugly and aren't efficient. I would like to get a split rail system but I am not sure if I could remove the outside component (is that called the inverter?) once October shows up. Is there anything on the market that will keep me cool and please my HOA?


texts: Multiple boilers, one expansion tank and fill mechanism?

texts:
For a building with two boilers serving separate apartments, I'd like to simplify my design by having only one auto-fill and backflow preventer, and only one expansion tank.

These are combi boilers using a primary/secondary loop for each.

A single supply could fill both loops--it's all coming from the same cold water line anyway, right?  The only risk would be mixing of loops under weird pressure conditions--should I use check valves?  Is this common practice?


texts: Toilet valve black rubber seal disintegrating

texts: I have an older Gerber brand toilet. The black rubber seal that looks like a Mason jar lid is crumbling and turning into black goo when touched. Is it easy to replace this? What is the purpose of this part? Will an American Standard one fit on a Gerber? Is there a way to keep these from disintegrating? Any help with information on this part would be appreciated. Thanks.


texts: carrier infinity 96 furnace extended exterior exhaust concerns

texts:
Due to severe wind and drifting snow that has blocked my furnace exhaust pipe I have extended the exterior intake and exhaust pipes approximately 8 ft up. The exhaust right angles out below my eaves and gutter.  I have installed a high grade heat cable around the exterior pipe and covered the pipe with insulation and then a vinyl type wrap over the insulation. This is supposed to keep the moisture from freezing in both the vertical pipe as well as the horizontal pipe between my inside floor joists.

However, I am concerned that due to the length of the extension that there may still be freezing in the exhaust line. Any ideas how to confirm short of an ice block shutting down my furnace? Am I missing something in my solution to this problem? Have I created other problems?

In the past I have religiously shoveled any drift in the area of the exhaust but if I am away from my home for an extended time and the furnace shuts down it will create major freezing problems and damage within my home.


texts: What is the correct way to share a washing machine receptacle with a printer?

texts:
I live in the U.S. in a townhome (not free standing) built in 2012.

I want to put a laser printer in the laundry room and use the outlet currently occupied by the washing machine. It's a designated circuit for the washer; the double-pole breaker in the box is 30A. -- I'm sorry, I have no idea where I got the idea it was a big breaker like that, I must have been looking at the dishwasher breaker and got it confused.

The washing machine circuit is 20A, single pole.

The sticker on the washer says it's 10A 120V 60Hz.

The laser printer says it's 110-120V, 50/60Hz and 9A.

It's a standard U.S. 3-prong outlet with a little notch off the left prong (which is not used by the washer).

So, can I just use a standard outlet splitter or do I need to consider the power draw or some other effects?


texts: How can I repair a leaking valve on an unused refrigerator water line?

texts: I recently bought a fridge that doesn't have an ice maker or water dispenser. I turned off the water under my sink that goes to the fridge line, yet I still find a puddle of water in the morning when I wake up. Is there an easy way to fix this issue?


texts: Can't make progress with a hammer drill into 60 year old concrete

texts:
I have a Ramset Hammer drill with the Hammer drill option set, speed set at low [1], and a new 1/4" masonry/concrete bit. I can't get more than an 1/8" in about 15 minutes of incremental drilling with wax and cleaning.
I have tried other area's and in the foundation wall and got the same result.

The drill is in forward and in hammer mode, thank you -). The drill is not cordless, but I have had it for 30 years when I use to install Kawneer and Vistawall Curtain walls and skylights (commercially).

The bit still has the hammer flutes/blades and the are not chippedits new.

There isn’t any aggregate in the wall that’s what is odd, it’s like a solid slurry of Portland cement. - think plaster consistency, tough stuff in 3 of the four walls tested. The drill is in hammer mode the select switch mode is set and on setting 1, low speed to prevent over-heating of the bit.

I’ve drilled steel I-beams with this drill up to 1/2”, and modern concrete (90’s) with the same bit type, the drill it’s just like a Hilti, same bits will work. I got them from ‘Fasterns inc.’ [mobile construction delivery service]. Thanks for the feedback and thoughts, much appreciated.


texts:
I seem to have a strange issue with my TV aerial.
I installed a new all singing all dancing TV aerial and everything was fine for a month then the digital signal started going. I moved the aerial from my loft to the roof. This solved the problem for about a month and it started going again.

I have found out two things since. If I plug the aerial into my freeview talktalk box the signal goes after about a week and it takes about a month in my TV.
If I unplug the aerial for about 30 minutes and plug it back in the signal is good again but then goes again after a month or a week depending what it is plugged into.

I think this could be static build up but I dont know how I could solve this.

Does anyone have any ideas?


texts: I am installing a French drain around the back side of my house to help protect the perimeter foundation. I have a 31'X 36' patio butted up against part of the foundation.  Should I also install the French drain around the patio?


texts: Three way switch with intermittent light functionality

texts:
I have a fluorescent light fixture in my kitchen that works intermittently. Or, rather, has been working intermittently, but now has stopped working.

I suspected that one of the three way switches was bad, mostly because that was the easiest and cheapest thing to replace. The switch has two black wires and one red wire. When I test the wires with my meter relative to ground, I see 124V on red, 25V on one of the black wires and ~0V on the remaining black wire. If I flip the other 3-way switch, I see 124V on red and 25V on one of the blacks.

This strikes me as odd as I don't know where that 25V is coming from.

Also, strangely enough: while I was hooking up wires, the light momentarily turned on. (I had apparently flipped the incorrect breaker - it is mislabeled - to disconnect the circuit. Lucky me!)

Any suggestions? Is there a convenient way to test the fixture without removing it from the ceiling? Is there something obvious that I am missing? What's with that 25V line?

Update

If I tie all three wires going into the switch together (having disconnected the switch completely), I can hear the fixture humming and see a faint light in the fluorescent tubes.


texts: Is it okay to 'sandwich' rigid foam insulation between old and new sheet siding?

texts: I am putting new LP Smart Siding (4'x 8' and 3//8" thick) onto my house, which will overlay old T1-11 siding. I would like to put R-MAX 1/2" rigid foam insulation under the new siding.  Is this okay?


texts: What is this component that connects to the garbage disposal?

texts:
I am trying to install a new faucet with a soap dispenser. I removed my old facuet; however, where the soap dispenser is supposed to go, this is here:

It has pipes that go to the sink erator under the sink. What is this? Can I safely remove it and the pipes from it and put the soap dispenser there?


texts:
This question is not stemming from any immediate practical application. But I am curious about the color of wire insulation used for three phase 208V or 240V well pumps. Looking online I see a lot of submersible well pump cables that are black/red/yellow/green. But I don't see any that are black/red/blue/green. I know black/red/blue/green colors are somewhat customary (but not mandatory) for 208V. Also white if neutral is used.

Is it an electrical code requirement in the US to use wire listed as submersible well pump wire under UL 83 for well pumps? What part of the NEC calls that out? I am talking about the wire that goes down the bore to the pump motor.

I know the NEC is silent about colors, but what is the customary color, if any, of insulation used for 3-phase well pump wire and cable (208-240V)?


texts: Ceiling fan w/no light - to fan w/lights & remote cntrl - single switch?

texts: We currently have a single switch to a ceiling fan with with no light. We would like to change it to ceiling fan with lights and remote control. Do we need additional switch to control light / fan separately,  or can we just use the single switch and remote control to control the other features of the fan?


texts: Can I install a new hob, or will I need a larger circuit?

texts:
I want to swap a ceramic hob for another model.
My current set is: oven and a hob rated at 2075+6000=8075W in total ,they go through a 32Amp Circuit breaker, the oven is plugged to the wall, the hob is hard wired.
The new hob is 6500W, 2075+6500=8575W this should be fine considering circuit diversity. Is this a straight job (wire the new hob) or should I get an electrician to actually upgrade the circuit breaker?


texts: Consulting expert for remodelling plans while doing the work myself?

texts:
I'm planning a kitchen renovation that involves removing a floor to ceiling pantry that separates the kitchen and dining areas, new cabinets, new flooring, and new appliances.  I'm unsure of how to get started with this without getting some initial expertise and guidance from a designer to help plan and determine what the course of action should be.  I can do most, if not all, of the work myself, so I'm wondering what type of expert I should consult first to determine things like appliance location, walls (whether load bearing or non-load bearing), etc, while getting to use the plans to do the work myself.

I've read about Home Depot and Ikea consultations, I'm just wondering if it's an actual kitchen designer or engineer or someone else whom I should actually be looking for.


texts: Insulating basement - foam walls or pour floor first?

texts:
Basement is unfinished, 100 year old house. Basement floor is dirt and various crumbling sections of old concrete.  Walls are rubble and cement and above grade brick.

I'm planning on leveling the floor with tamped gravel, putting down foam board, radiant tubing and then pouring concrete and then probably tile. Walls will be foamed with closed cell foam.

Foam company said to do the floor first, but I think you'd want to foam first and pour the concrete to the wall edge and the foam will provide expansion for the floor.

But I really don't know and maybe it doesn't matter.

Any ideas?

Ok, considering the comments below, here's my order of operations:  This would create a fully thermal-sealed basement:

Lay down gravel in the basement to level it. Tamp that down, mechanically.
Lay down vapor barrier and then Foam board on the gravel basement floor, probably 3 inch.
FOAM THE WALLS - connects all the way down to foam board.
Wall mount the manifolds for radiant
Lay down the radiant tube (wire mesh attached or template board attached)
Pour concrete floor
Install the boiler(s)


texts: Building Gate between house and garage with concrete slabs

texts:
We are fencing our backyard for the safety of our autistic son and what we have left is a gate between our house and the garage.
They do not line up evenly and there are concrete slabs and rocks in between. Were not sure what the best way is at this point for this gate. It's all we have left and struggling.
Were trying to figure out which way is best. Set posts or attach to house and which side should have more of the weight.
Any advice of best way would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Front Porch Posts Not Contacting Porch Slab

texts:
After removing my front porch railing, I noticed that 3 of the 4 porch posts do not make full contact with the porch slab. The one closest to the front door is the one that doesn't move around. The others move around quite a bit on the bottom.
I don't remember the posts moving around before I removed the railing.
Are these load bearing?
Is there danger of the porch collapsing?


texts: How do I install a new header in an exterior load-bearing wall?

texts:
I am replacing a 36-inch exterior door with a double door, 6 feet wide. It is going into a studded ground floor wall. There is another story above it. House is 24 feet wide.

Assuming I am reading the right table, and reading the table right...

Table R502.5(2) says I use 3 2x8s to span a max of 6' 3" with one jack stud at either end.

Since it is a 2x6 wall, I plan to laminate in some plywood to make the header wide enough.

And then, when I remove the existing door, its frame and header, do I really need to use jacks, etc., or can I just screw a 2x10x8 to the studs on both sides of the new opening while I work?


texts: No More Nails adhesive on PVA primed drywall?

texts:
I'd like to glue laminate flooring on my TV wall. I just plan to glue the laminate directly to the wall, which is drywall primed with Kilz PVA

I have No More Nails general purpose adhesive lying around. It states it does not recommend bonding together two (2) non-porous materials.

The back of the laminate flooring definitely looks non-porous. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Kilz PVA primer makes the drywall non-porous, right?

If so, what would be the best type of adhesive to use for this application?

ANSWERED.

Here are photos of how I did it:

I did end up using some form of adhesive on the aluminum trim/border: Super Glue!


texts: What size feeder do I need for a basement electrical subpanel?

texts: I would like to know what size and type of feeder wire and feeder breaker do I need for my basement subpanel where I am planning to add six 15 Amp circuits, and three 20 Amp circuits. This will be 2' away from the main service panel. It will be for lighting and receptacles for bedrooms, a large living area, and a bathroom. I plan on running a 65" HDTV with sound system and 2 video game consoles; one of the rooms will be an office with a PC and printer. The two bedrooms will each have a 32" TV. The bathroom has only an exhaust fan, shower light and vanity light. There will be no heavy equipment.


texts: What type of paint and how many coats should be used to paint a radiator?

texts:
We've moved into a new house with a fairly incompatible sense of interior design. To illustrate one room in particular, the walls are orange, the floor to ceiling shelves are orange, the fireplace mantle is orange, the pinboard is orange and the radiator is orange.

The entire room looks like it's been painted in the same shade of orange and possibly even the same type of paint.

I'd like to re-paint the walls and the radiator but I'm new to painting radiators and I'm not sure where to start. I'm mainly concerned about what type of paint to use and how many coatings should be applied.


texts: Can anyone help me identify the date of manufacture of this drywall?

texts: Hi there. I’m trying to determine whether this drywall was installed during a remodel on my home back in 2004 or whether it was installed by the people who recently sold the house to us (who lived in the house from 2011 to 2018) during a repair. I don’t see a date stamp but am wondering if this manufacturing info is sufficient to identify when it was manufactured?


texts: Can I move my kitchen to the front of the house or any other ideas?

texts:
I recently purchased this 3/4 bedroom house. I liked having the additional room space downstairs (converted garage) but do not like how it is separated from the rest of the house.

Also, the kitchen would need to be extended as it is quite small. The current layout is awkward, with you having to walk through the lounge from the kitchen to the existing dining area.!

My initial idea is shown below. This would increase the size of the kitchen whilst have the garage conversion tail off of the living room making it more entwined with the rest of the house (in my opinion).

How easy do you think it would be to move the kitchen to the lounge or does anyone have any better ideas?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Grinding noise and plastic bits in washing machine

texts:
We just bought a house and it had a washing machine in there. Initially it just seemed really dirty so we gave it a good scrub and ran a few hot cycles with vinegar and baking soda to clean out the mold and scrud. When we finally thought we were done and ran the first run with a load it made a very loud grinding sound when spinning. When it was done, we found bits of ground up plastic in the drum.
I have tried running it a few more times, and the sound is sometimes better and sometimes worse, and we always find ground up plastic. Moving the door seal out of the way, you can see where the plastic is coming from: it looks like it is a plastic ring behind the drum that is disintegrated and I can pull bits off. I have attached a picture of both the plastic ring and the remains of a part I removed.
Is this part of the plastic tub that somehow got misaligned? Is it fixable? Or should we scrap the machine?
Model is Electrolux EWF 1287.


texts: Replacing deck joist - board width mismatch

texts:
I am working on replacing decking and found a couple of rotted joist I decided to replace as well.

The joist size is 2x8-12. I purchased the replacement joists however when I took one rotten out and compared with the new one, it turned out the new one is 1/4" wider. The label on both old and new joists says 2x8-12, but the exact width of the old one is 7" and new one is 7 1/4".
Did I get wrong product? The old deck may be 10 years old -- is it just result of the wood shrinking over years? If so does it mean I can't replace a few joists and should do it for all of them?
Technically I could cut off the extra piece but if it is shrinking, then it will become uneven in a few years.

Any guidance would be much appreciated


texts:
I have a simple cinder block garage. It is exposed on one side and adjacent to a neighbor's garage (6" gap) on the other.  The side adjacent to my neighbor shows some water spots on the inside of the wall, which become more prominent when it rains. I have attached several photos below, taken after a couple days of rain (although the spots never really clear, they just become more prominent after rain).

The garage is about 5 years old. For the first 4 years (before I owned it) my neighbor's garage did not have a gutter and therefore poured water onto that wall everytime it rained. When I first saw water spots inside my garage, about a year ago, I attributed it to the missing gutter. I spoke with my neighbor, and at my request he kindly installed a gutter April 2016.

The problem is that a year later I still see what appear to be water spots inside my garage. I would have assumed it was just efflorescence / staining, but the spots seem to be more prominent when it rains.

I checked the outside wall, and it actually seems drier than inside - so I think my neighbor's gutter is working fine. I considered that maybe my roof is leaking and pouring water into the wall, but I don't think so. The roof line hangs over the wall, so I am pretty sure I would see dripping into my garage in order for it to get in the wall (the roof line is perfectly dry, as far as I can tell).

There is a bit of pooling on the flat root, but very minor and the wet spots traverse the whole wall (not just the back corner where there is a little water on the roof).

The opposite wall, which is exposed, is completely dry inside and out.

Is anyone please able to explain what might be going on? What can I do to resolve this?


texts:
I want to install a motion sensor flood light in my yard. However, I want it to always function as a motion light, but when I want constant light back there without worry about the sensor.
I want to be able to turn a light switch on to have constant light, thus “overriding” the motion sensor.
Is this possible?
I’m rather experienced with home electrical work, but can’t seem to reason through a way to make this work.


texts: What's the best way/tool to cut a strip of drywall out of my window boxes?

texts:
I'm installing nice new vinyl windows, and in order to maximize the glass area, I've ordered new construction windows to avoid having to set them in the existing window boxes and live with the frames taking up more space than necessary.

However, the new windows are about an inch deeper than my current awful aluminum windows. As a result, I'm going to need to cut back the drywall in the window boxes by about an inch. It's a very cramped area and I'm not sure I'll be able to get my circular saw all the way in there. Since the lumber making up the rough opening is behind the drywall, I can't use any kind of saw that needs to penetrate through the other side by more than half an inch, if even that.

What's the right tool for this job?


texts: How to HVAC service 3 floors without ducts in roof?

texts:
This is a little simplified, but not too much.  I have architects and plans for a a two story house plus a basement.  The house is about 80 feet by 20 feet with all stories extending the whole footprint.  The floors between stories are supported with a 20" floor truss system.

I was told the floor truss system could pass HVAC ducts. I thought this would mean that the floor of the 1st story could provide HVAC for the basement and first floor, and the floor of the 2nd story would provide HVAC for the second story.  All mechanical would be in the basement with a chase between the 1st and 2nd story.

Instead they want to serve the 2nd story from the roof (there is no attic) by adding roof trusses for ducts.  And add a 2nd story mechanical room.  This is wildly inelegant to me.

Since I insisted on keeping the mechanical in the basement, now they've designed a chase from the basement all the way up to the roof of the second floor.  Possibly even more inelegant.

Will the 20" floor truss system not provide the space to service 3 stories from two floors?  With a zone for each story?
If it doesn't provide adequate space, should I look at mini-split for the basement, hydronic floors for basement, or some other type of solution for one or more floors?  It'd be nice to avoid having HVAC in the roof, right?


texts: Is DC Pedestal fan motor whine normal at low speed?

texts: I have a brand new DC motor pedestal fan with 12 speeds. At the very low speeds the motor makes a whiny bearing type noise. Is this normal for low voltage DC fans?


texts: Wood glue versus epoxy for doweling stripped screw holes

texts:
I've come across two schools of thought for gluing dowels in place.

PVA wood glue, such as Titebond.
Two-part epoxy, such as Araldite.

Bearing in mind long-term stability, which is preferable for interior door hinges?


texts: I have 3 in of spray foam on ceiling ( not a hot roof ) and 2 in on the walls of my garage can I add batted insulation to the walls before I Sheetrock them or can I blow or put batted on top of my spray foam in the  Attic .


texts: light switch is apparently broke, but the light stays on

texts: my light switch apparently broke with the light on.  Now the light will not turn off. Is it safe to leave the light on overnight with the switch broken?


texts: I have an LG 7000btu portable a/c [LP0711WNR] unit that I would like  to use in a basement area solely as a dehumidifier.  Do I need to vent the exhaust to the outside or can it just exhaust back into the basement?  Specifically, does the water vapor condense inside the unit and go out the drain or is it turned into vapor and blown out the exhaust making outside exhaust necessary? Thank you.


texts:
grateful for any advise anyone can give me.
I'm trying to find the manufacturer and age of French Patio Doors installed before we bought the house.

Inside frame
RHEN12608SIIAG353203903071206503820042029

Inside other frame
RHEN12608SIIAG35314350307052--8550022074

Inside glass
RAVENSBY KM25420 BSEN1279-2

Photos of doors attached


texts: Can I use an air gap faucet as a standard faucet?

texts:
I recently replaced my RO filter system with a simpler water filter system. I did not get a new faucet since I figured that I could just use the existing one that was installed with my RO system. Once I started tinkering around, I discovered the 2 extra drain hoses on my RO faucet (an air gap faucet). The faucet looks like this: https://www.freedrinkingwater.com/support/wp-content/uploads/all-ro-faucet-installation-figure1.jpg

Referencing the image, I disconnected the orange line and just left it uncapped under my sink. I left the black line to the drain saddle where it was. I plugged my new clean water line where the blue line is in the above image.

As I understand the 2 drain lines in the air gap faucet just connect to each other inside the faucet and to a vent hole in the faucet base.

Is this a bad idea? Are there any possible problems I should be aware of? I'd rather not replace the faucet because it's in a really tight spot that's hard to access. Any insight would be appreciated.


texts: How can I fix cracks between the bathtub and the wall surround?

texts: I noticed after years of usage, there are some cracks in my bathtub (pictures attached). I am not sure how bad they look and whether or not if I need to fix those cracks? and if I do, how can I fix them by myself if it is easy?


texts: Bathroom Wiring - Existing light - Add Bath fan - Add gfci outlet

texts:
I have a single light fixture in my bathroom on onw switch. The room has no fan and no outlets. I want to add one fan, and add one gfci outlet.

I have two ideas. Looking for pro / con / feasibility + wiring diagrams.

Simple Solution

Combine fan and light on single switch. Replace single switch with switch / outlet combo like below.

Single Switch / Outlet Combo

I assume I can run power from the light to the fan. And then rewire the switch. Is it that simple?

Right Solution

Replace the single switch with 2 switches: 1 each for light and fan. Then have a gfci outlet placed by the vanity. PROS: 1. I can leave the fan off when not showering. 2. The outlet is by the vanity, and not on an awkward wall with a switch.

New Switches

Sample Outlet location

Thoughts

I found this with the preferred answer being close. Wrong switch type, and it assumes power is run to the outlet then to the light. My existing source is to the switch. I figure the only way to have the outlet after the switch, is to have it be activated by the light (not fan) switch. That's less than ideal, but I'm open to it, since I'd never need the outlet to work with the light off.

Also, old house, so there are likely no grounds.

New Info!

I went into the attic and traced all the wiring to / from the bathroom light. There's more! I drew a basic diagram. I'm sorry it's not an official drawing, but hopefully clear enough. Also, it's on a 15 amp fuse. And this is all new wiring, and surprisingly, includes grounds.

New Plan
I'm thinking I scratch the outlet idea. I'll only add a fan. I'll add a switch next to the light switch, and tie the fan power into the light. Thoughts?

Happy Ending
Installed just the fan, no outlet. I added a second switch using an old work box, right next to the existing switch. I wired it to the light as expected, and it's worked perfectly. Thanks guys!


texts: I have bought 2 second hand box steel gates each 8ft high and 9ft wide for the entrance to my horses field. I estimate they weigh about 200kg and 250kg (one has a substantial letterbox welded on). I am thinking of 4.5m long box steel 100mm x 100mm x 5mm putting 1.5m into the ground and then filling the box with concrete before capping. No one at the steel merchants can tell me if this will support the weight, anyone any ideas? I have thought of a gate wheel however the drive slopes both inwards (gates will open in) and from right to left so I don't think I can use them.


texts: How to prepare a rough concrete slab for pavers

texts:
I tore my old wood deck out and am planning to lay pavers on top of the concrete slab that was beneath it.
I'm following the instructions here, photo below:

The inner paver bricks will have a layer of sand underneath them, so they will be level. But the border pavers are just glued down.
But this seems to be assuming the top of the concrete slab is finished... mine is very rough:

What can I do to level the concrete before laying the border pavers on top of it? Or is that not necessary, can I just glue them to the rough surface?


texts:
My rental apartment has a fireplace, which we use often. This fireplace lacks a glass door. On nights when we have used the fireplace, we leave the flue open until the morning, and when we get up, the entire level is freezing. As it's a rental, I can't just install a glass door myself.

I bought this fireplace cover, but I find that it only helps so much. I am thinking of building a supplemental heat barrier, with the following layers (from closest to furthest from fire):

radiant foil barrier
fiberglass insulation (no vapor retardants)
plywood

I would cut the fiberglass to the size of the plywood, then take a slightly larger piece of foil and wrap it around, then tack and tape it in place. I would lean this over the fire retardant fireplace cover that I already have.

Would this be safe? My concern is that, if an ember managed to rekindle, I wouldn't want to create a fire hazard. One possibility is to use a spray-on fire retardant, or just to wrap the entire piece of plywood in foil before attaching the fiberglass and outer foil layers.

Alternatively, and preferably, is there a commercially available product I could use instead?


texts: What is the pointed end of a spud or construction adjustable wrench used for?

texts: I saw one of these at Lowe's the other day and was just wondering what the pointed end is used for. I have seen it called a "construction" wrench and a "spud" wrench.


texts: Should I run laminate continuously through rooms, or separate with T moulding?

texts:
I am installing laminate flooring in an area that has two bedrooms and a living area.  The bedrooms are about 150 sq ft each and the living space is around 250 sq ft.

---------------        -----------------------------
|             |        |                           |
|             |        |                           |
|    Bd #1    | stairs |                           |
|             |        |                           |
|             |--------|      Living Space         |
|                                                  |
|-------------|                                    |
|                                                  |
|             |-  ----------  ---------------------|
|             |          |                         |
|    Bd #2    |  Bath    |      Utility Room       |
|             |          |                         |
|             |          |                         |
----------------------------------------------------

I know about the standard spacing that must be left between the flooring and the walls.  I also understand I should run flooring parallel with the longest wall.  I would like to know if I should just run the entire flooring from room to room, or if I should separate it based on the rooms and have T moulding to transition from the bedrooms to the living space.  I think this would help with the expansion of the flooring and be less likely to have bowing.  I think it would look better to have no spacing at all, so maybe I'm being paranoid about the spacing/bowing.  Is there a standard for this type of transition?  I think once you reach a certain square footage you need to insert a gap, but I'm not sure what that is.  Any advice is appreciated.


texts: how to best remove concrete splash from vinyl siding

texts: When our contractor poured the concrete for sidewalks and handicap ramp, concrete splashed onto the vinyl siding. Is there a product or way to remove this more easily than hand-scrubbing? Pressure washing did not work.


texts: Cord plug amperage rating for 3-phase machine

texts: If i have 3 phase running to  a machine with 35 amp breakers how many amps should my cord ends be rated for ?


texts:
I have an old brick house (1960s) next to a river, the ground surrounding the house is normally wet. The basement is very humid and just use to store stuff that can't go bad. I will most likely get rid of the house in some years and build new, since I don't like it very much and it would require a lot of work.

My question is: Are there any uses for such a humid basement? I'm thinking mushroom growing kind of thing, aquaponics... Dont' know, anything a dark, humid basement is good for? It's a huge one, maybe 100 square meters (~1000 square feet)


texts: Black greasy specks in sinks, dishwasher, etc. at home

texts:
We have been noticing black specks that leave a greasy trail when smeared in our bathroom sinks and on dishes washed in the dishwasher in recent weeks. After some research, I find that the 2 main reasons for this are 1) a deteriorating black rubber hose to/from the water heater, and 2) a deteriorating magnesium anode rod in the water heater. I pried open a bit of insulation on the pipes to/from water heater and found that they are either copper or solid plastic pipes. That leaves reason (2). How do I determine if the anode rod in my water heater is magnesium (as opposed to aluminum) without calling a professional? Is it typically written somewhere on the heater? Our heater was replaced in the past 3 years. I'm attaching 2 pictures below showing parts of the top of the heater, one of which seems to be the head of the anode rod (I don't know which one).

Also, are there any other major causes for the black stuff that I should be looking out for? I find that decaying black rubber hoses is another reason, but the hoses to the sinks in our house look like the picture below, which does not seem to be the flexible black rubber hose that decays. Can anyone confirm?

Yet another possible reason I find is the decaying inner lining of the water heater expansion tank. Below is a pic of the label on the expansion tank, which I believe was replaced when the heater was replaced in Dec 2017. Does it looks like the kind that has an inner lining that decays quickly?


texts: Are multiple wire runs in conduit allowed

texts: I plan to run PVC conduit underground from house to shed. Primary purpose is for a sub-panel in the shed - 4 wires for this. I would also like to run another set of wires "back" from the shed to the house to allow for operating a generator in the shed during power outages and bringing that power to the house. Is it allowed to put both of these wire runs in the same conduit as long as I don't violate the 40% fill rule?


texts: How to determine depth of non-load bearing post when NOT using concrete?

texts:
I'm building a trellis/clothesline and using 4x4s as the end-poles. The load on these will be pretty small, and mostly bending moments (almost all) and not axial stress. I live in southern California — very little annual rainfall and no frost/ice/snow.

I'm planning for between 4-5' of height above ground and do not want to set the posts in concrete (only backfill, and will install something like this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=hkhz1RY0cY8&t=6m12s). To what depth should I set the posts under ground? I couldn't find rules of thumbs for this scenario (no concrete). I have planned for between 1.5-2' deep holes, which is just about sufficient for posts set in concrete. Should I dig them deeper or will these suffice?


texts: What could cause my range burner to be bright red and really hot when the dial is set to low?

texts:
On one front burner I have a big problem.  I turn it on medium high until my water (or whatever) comes to a boil -- then, I turn it down to low heat (apx #2) -- and then many times, I look at it and the burner is bright red with an extremely high heat even though the dial is on low heat.  What could be causing this?

Kenmore electric range model 911.93614010


texts: Arc flash thin sheet to cover panel cabinet & fixing the wires

texts:
This is the panel cover.

back side of the cover

Background. You need EGC (Equipment Ground Conductor) in metal chassis of anything in the house. But in poor country Philippines where 100% of homes don't have any EGC. The main panel chassis is not protected. I can protect the fridge, washing machine etc. metal chassis by putting them under GFCI breaker control (in fact I did). But how about the panel chassis. I've been wondering this for months. Someone even suggested I put a 30ma RCD before the panel. But if it trips, the entire house power goes down.

Therefore one of my solution is to treat the entire panel metal chassis as live. Meaning it shouldn't be touched without first turning off the power in a lone 2nd disconnect on right of it. Putting the huge cover can defeat the purpose. More if a gutter (large junction box) would be flushed to it as someone suggested. It would increase the surface area in case of ground fault.

What do you think of this logic? Therefore something light (preferably that can't conduct) can be put to cover inside wooden cabinet or even a child bathtub to cover the entire inside panel. Then smoke detector could be put inside. This would be safer than electrified panel chassis can easily electrocute anyone touching it. Isn't it? In a main panel without EGC, need to improvise.

In the following original panel. I wanted to join circuits in 3 breakers into one subpanel breaker. 2 breakers into 1, etc.

The one labeled in blue are 3 breakers that I joined into one breaker in the subpanel (the loadings of the 3 are less than 15A). I first used wire nut (3-wire) to tie two breakers with extra wire to another wire nut to join the 3rd breaker into the subpanel. In the green labels, I tried to join 2 circuits/breakers into one breaker. The one in yellow is one circuit/breaker only and adding butt splice to make longer wire into the subpanel breaker. 1 and 2 is the bath heater wires directly to the subpanel.
Here is the result:

The above is just a start. It would get messier. I planned to migrate the rest of the circuits/breakers into the subpanel for total whole house GFCI breaker protection.

If I join the wires in the gutter (large junction box below the panel) suggested by Harper. Should I continue to use wire nuts to join 3 circuits/breakers into one breaker (the breaker ampere is the same 30A for all so no problem about overloading any wires).

Or another alternative. I could just cover the wooden cabinet with insulation/thin metal to make the entire cabinet the metal cover? So I'm looking for a thin sheet of material insulator that is fireproof and arc flash proof that you can put over wood (or cover the wood with), any idea what that would be?


texts: Building an elevated deck over 6x6x6 posts, a beam made of 3 pressure treated 2x8x16' is too narrow

texts:
In building an elevated deck over 6x6x6 posts, a beam made of 3 pressure treated 2x8x16' (where the beams are attached to each other with FastenMaster ThruLoks) is too narrow (~5" versus 6" expected) for the galvanized-steel beam holder resting atop the post. I suppose this is due to nominal widths of the lumber, but I read this technique was acceptable if you could not get a beam and wanted to build it yourself with 2x8x16' pressure treated lumber.
Where did I go wrong and what can I do to keep doing this right?


texts: Need help finding the right replacement screws

texts: I have lost the screws for my digital Piano, and would like to buy new ones from Home Depot or a local hardware store. The manual has some info, but it seems that I also need the tread size to find the proper screw. Any ideas how I can find the right screws?


texts: How to manage water pooling at a particular spot in my lawn?

texts:
Per the picture, I have an interesting draining issue where some rain water will drain along my roof's edge to a spot on my lawn. Problem is that the water is pooling in heavier rains (see picture below)

Are there recommended ways to handle water pooling due to draining water?


texts: What would cause a toilet tank to intermittently leak into the bowl only when half-full or more, even after a flush valve replacement?

texts:
Well I'm at my wits end. The toilet's been running for weeks and I've yet to catch it.

I first replaced the flapper, it still leaked. Then I replaced the flush assembly, it still leaks.

Now at this point I experimented a bit, and I filled the tank half way before turning off the water. It stayed steady for 2 days. But when allowed to fill properly, the tank completely empties over the course of 6 hours.

Could it be possible that the tank itself is somehow to blame? Could it be that I didn't tighten the tank down enough?


texts:
I recently bought a house built in 1952 and am trying to change the light fixture in the kitchen ceiling. When I took the old light fixture off, I noticed that the wires coming from the ceiling were coupled with some other random wires.

The old and new mounting strap:

My questions are:

What is the second set of wires? My kitchen light switch turns on a second light fixture in the kitchen. Could it be the wire to that light fixture being coupled at the light instead of the switch?
Looking at the state of the wires, is there any maintenance I need to do and can do as an amateur electrician?
Just looking at these wires, can anyone tell me which wire is hot and which is neutral?
The new light fixture has a little pipe through which these wires are supposed to go. Given the thickness of these wires and the fact that there are two sets and given the pipe in the new fixture is way too thin, all these wires don’t fit in there. Is there anything I can do to get these wires in there? They fit but it’s very tight and I’m afraid I’m going to damage something by pushing the pipe in too hard.
While I better understand the situation and figure out a solution, I’ve screwed those plastic caps on here. Is it safe to turn the light on?

I’d really appreciate some guidance on how to proceed from here.


texts:
Yesterday morning I woke up and had 4 outlets and 2 switches not working. I tested the outlets and have 0 ACV. The breaker shows 120 ACV. Took all the outlets apart and noticed one had over heated on the hot wires so I replaced that outlet. The rest are still good. Reset the breaker and still nothing. I am out of ideas

Thanks


texts: What tool should I use for carving deep shapes in a desk top?

texts:
I am starting a DIY project to create a standing desk. Part of this project involves installing some electronics in the wooden desktop itself. I need to make the following cuts / carvings and am wondering the best tool to use:

A 10" x 10" square on the surface of the desk that is 1" deep
A 2" x 10" rectangle on the side of the desktop that is 2" deep

I am hoping there is a handheld power tool that can help me accomplish this. I don't need perfect cuts; a hand-made imperfect aesthetic would be just fine.


texts: Is a special circular saw blade needed to cut plastic?

texts:
We purchased two portable air conditioners for our bedrooms.  It include a plastic window kit that can be fitted for the window.  I.e., this:

I need to trim off about 6 inches, which requires a simple straight cut.  Doing it by hand is challenging -- both physically and to get it straight.  (I took that approach years ago, with a different unit, in my apartment.)

This time I have a circular saw and realized that would be a lot better and cleaner.  However, I'm not sure if I need a special blade?  Currently I have 18- and 24-Tooth Saw Blades.


texts: Kitchen Physics: How to unstick metal pot lid from wooden salad bowl

texts:
So this isn't really a home-improvement question but I think the people here have the skills to answer it. If there's a different site you'd recommend asking, please let me know and I'd be happy to move it there.

My wife and I got a salad bowl that was hand-made by my uncle as a wedding present. It has sides that are perpendicular to the bottom of the bowl. At some point a pot lid was placed on the bottom. Nobody noticed that it fit around the bottom of the bowl well. In fact, it fit a little too well. We just noticed that the lid is firmly stuck to the bowl.

Becuase it was a hand-made family wedding gift, I want to minimize any possible damage to the wood bowl. But the solutions I can think of to separate them are contradictory. Our apartment has gone from the usual summer 75 F to a comfortable fall 70F. We don't have a thermostat or control over our heater (this is normal in our city). So I assume the metal getting colder and contracting doesn't help things. But it also means it's less humid so the wood should be swelling less. I could put it in the driest location I can think of, but that would be even colder, causing the pot lid to contract more. I could apply heat to the lid, but most ways I have access to involve steam or hot water, which would swell up the wood. Then there's trying to add oil or soap to the place where it meets, and even if I could get those between, the slipperiness interferes with anyone trying to grip them and pull them apart.

What would you suggest for getting this metal lid unstuck from around the outside of a wooden bowl?


texts:
How do I hang pictures with sawtooth hangers on a very light (i.e. not compact) wall? Some additional facts:

Plastic hard wall hangers like these do not work:

I wrecked a frame which I hung on one of these because it fell down.

Ergo, I need something stronger. I tried to drill a hole and fit a plastic anchor, but the anchor wouldn't sit well in the hole because the wall is so light. An attempt with an expansion anchor did not work either.

Do you think I used the wrong kind of expansion anchor? Are there other options? Please advise. The hangers on most of the pictures are of the sawtooth variety. I also have pictures with wires.


texts: Is it ok to use a frame hardboard siding as a tennis wall?

texts: The exterior of my house is made of frame hardboard. My wife says that I should not use it as a tennis wall because tennis size hail are known to damage the siding and therefore a tennis ball would damage it too if I hit the wall with the ball too many times. I say the material/object properties of ice and a hollow rubber ball are very different, particularly the coefficient of restitution. But I don't have any hard evidence that bouncing the tennis ball off the siding over many months won't do any damage to the siding. Any pointers? Thanks.


texts: What is a good method to seal a baseboard to stop an existing draft?

texts: Probably, due to faulty insulation/damp barrier, there is a cold draft coming through one of the upstairs baseboard. What is a good method to seal it? (It is a rented house, so, no I do not want to fix the source of the problem)


texts: Is it okay to trim the toilet tank overflow pipe?

texts:
[EDIT 2016-09-28: It is a Kohler toilet, and the old fill valve is Kohler 81093-AA.  I suspect it is the original valve. I've been in correspondence with Kohler.  They asked for pictures of the toilet to identify it, which I sent. They didn't respond to my question about cutting the existing overflow-pipe.  They gave model number 1138930 as an appropriate replacement, however they said it may not extend as far as I needed, so extend it all the way and should be ok.  That was voicemail, so I emailed back asking for the height-range of the 1138930. Waiting for the reply.]

[EDIT 2016-09-28: still waiting for a reply to my follow-up email (but installed the 400ARHR and the project is done.]

Kohler toilet with original Kohler guts runs. It is old and is not a low-flow toilet.

Lifting the float by hand does not stop water flowing out the bowl-refill tube attached to the overflow pipe.  So I bought a new valve.

New valve is the Fluidmaster 400A.  It's height is adjustable, but it doesn't extend quite long enough for the Critical Line on it to be 1" above the top of the existing overflow pipe.  The manufacturer did not stamp a water level mark inside the tank, though there is the water stain.

Is it ok to cut off about an inch of the overflow pipe? might need to cut 1.25 or 1.5. Haven't measured precisely.


texts: What are the standard dimensions for fridges in the US?

texts:
I just want to know whatever I can about the (seemingly) existing efforts to standardize fridge sizes.
I found this question (Refrigerator enclosure dimensions), but I'm looking more for a list of logical potential sizes.
I also found this link to "thor kitchen":

....the standard size for a professional-grade refrigerator falls between 30 to 36 inches width, 67 to 70 inches in height, and 29 to 35 inches in depth.
....some smaller kitchens may consider a smaller size refrigerator to be more standard. In fact, it is very common to find smaller refrigerators in places such as condos and rental apartments. These smaller sizes, however, are not the standard size.

So this is a basic range for the width and depth of normal medium-sized fridges, but the article does not yield a very technical or professional understanding.
I'd like to know from someone who deals with this a lot: what dimensions do you snap between when you design a kitchen around a fridge?  And are there standard sizes for smaller fridges?
I don't want to choose a fridge size that is non-standard and hard to replace in the future.


texts: Is it safe to use a 50W light in a 35W hood range?

texts:
One of the halogen lights on my hood fan just stopped working. The existing fan, and the enclosure, mention that it should be a GU10 120V 35W light. I replaced it with a GU10 120V 50W light.

Is this safe?


texts: Alternative to T Transitions for floating laminate floor

texts:
I have a floating floor on concrete slab that joins to tile in a number of common, high traffic walk ways in our home:

The standard way of joining a floating floor to a fixed one (or two floating floors) is a "T" transition:

These transitions suck for a number of reasons:

They get caught on shoes or anything sliding across floor which puts ripping force
Every one I can find is made from wood / particle board they break easily
Because the surface that is in contact with the floor is so narrow, they are easy to topple, and the glue rips.  Carpentry nails help, but don't work for concrete subfloors.

In general, it means that there is nearly annual maintenance and replacement for something that should require very little thought.  We'd like a better way.

Caulk / Silicone grout: All official sources on the web seem to suggest this should not be done for floating floors (and especially relatively large surfaces like ours), though it's not entirely clear why.  What is the worst case scenario here?  Softness in the flooring?
Is there a non-wood brand of t intersection that doesn't look awful, or looks like wood but is something sturdier?
Is there a brand or type of T strip that has a larger footing that the laminate be slotted into?  All that I've seen have at most 1/4" of cheap wood that gets glued down and don't last the day.  Something Like this?


texts: Burning smell on new miter saw - pre-installed blade

texts:
I bought a new Dewalt miter saw and every time I use it, there is a burning smell. I saw this question about a similar issue, but I don't think my problem is the speed at which I'm cutting or the thickness of the wood (doing test cuts on a 2x2 and have made cuts a varying speeds to make sure I wasn't cutting too fast).

A quick internet search suggests this can happen when the blade is dull or when the blade is on backwards. However, my miter saw actually came with the blade pre-installed, and the teeth are facing the correct way. Also, I don't think the blade a new miter saw comes with would be dull, but maybe I am wrong.

The other thing that puzzles me is I'm not actually seeing burn marks on the wood. Anyways, I was hoping to get some advice on some additional things I could check to determine what is causing this burning smell. Also, are the blades that usually ship with Dewalt miter saws good quality, or should I go ahead and replace it?


texts: What could be the source of sediment found in washing machine?

texts:
I had my basement finished and had them put in lines for washing machines.

Now, after the first use or two of the washer, it won't drain.  I looked at the filter, and I found a lot of this stuff: .  There's not much in the picture since I threw most of it out first, but I'd say I've found a few ounces of it at least on multiple occasions after clearing the filter and drain hose of it.

When I I flushed out the drain hose, I didn't really find anything that seemed like it could be the source.

I asked the previous owner of the machines twice, and he said he hadn't had any problems with it.

Could this be coming from the water line?  Or could someone have maybe run the washer with a whole bunch of rocks?!?  I can't think of anything else.


texts: We just bought a house and the guest bathroom has an awful smell coming from the toilet, how can we figure this out?

texts: The guest bathroom has an awful smell coming from the toilet, how can we figure this out? It isn't too bad, but it isn't something we can mask with anything.


texts:
A friend has asked for my help to replace a wall receptacle that has stopped working. I asked if it was loose-fitting or otherwise physically worn out. She said that plugs fit tightly and it generally seems OK.

Are there faults that could cause a receptacle to fail that I should check for while replacing it? Other than physically wearing out, I've never experienced a receptacle that simply quit working.

The house is old, possibly nearing 100 years. The receptacle likely does not have a modern ground wire to it. It was used for her computer and unlikely ever needed to supply more than a few amps.


texts: What would be the cleanest way to wire a wyze security camera from a light switch in a staircase?

texts:
I am planning to install a wyze security camera at the top of a staircase. There is a light switch right there I can draw from. Was thinking about wiring a romex from the light switch to the ceiling. But then how do I plug to the camera ? External outlet ?
What is a clean solution so that people cannot see all the connection if they look up ?
Thanks!


texts: Why does the outlet short out when I turn on the garbage disposal?

texts: Okay, when I first moved into the house, everything worked fine.  After about a year, my garbage disposal stopped working.  I thought maybe it was jammed but the blades still move when I turn the hex on the bottom.  I just noticed tonight that if I reset this one outlet, and turn on the disposal switch, it trips the outlet.  I tested this serveral times this evening.  The disposal is plugged into another outlet under the sink, the outlet that trips is a different outlet.  Any thoughts on what is going on and how this can be fixed??


texts: How can I reduce whistling due to wind across a gas fireplace vent?

texts:
We have a gas fireplace venting through the roof of our attic bedroom; there's a cap on a chimney up there. Double-wall construction, such that it pulls combustion air in from outside.

When the wind blows, the vent whistles loudly.

How can I reduce this noise?


texts: How do I replace a GFCI breaker with a normal breaker?

texts: I have a breaker on my panel that has 2 white wires and one black and a test button. I am changing to a breaker that has no white wires going to it just the black. Do I put both white wires to the bar or only the bigger one?


texts: In the UK, where do I buy a “pocket door” kit from?

texts: “pocket doors” are common the USA, however they are hardly never seen in the UK, so how do I buy one in the UK?


texts: How can I be sure a wire is truly neutral?

texts:
Most sites I find tell me how to distinguish the neutral wire from the live wire. Basically, you find the one that has current and the other one is neutral. That's all fine and dandy when you only have 2 wires. What if there are three or more? Sure it's usually the white one, but when 3-way and 4-way switches are concerned or if you just don't trust the previous electrician, how can I be sure that a particular wire is truly neutral and not just a traveller, for example.

For example in the following image, the neutral wire ends at the light fixture and for the sake of newer Z-Wave switches neither of those switch boxes has a neutral wire. So if I open a box and see a bunch of wires apart from identifying which one is live, how can I verify without a shadow of a doubt which of the others is truly neutral if there even is one?

Please don't assume this is the wiring I have. This is only an example to help clarify what I am asking.

Furthermore, if any particular wire is indistinguishable from neutral, then why does it matter which one I connect to the Z-wave neutral terminal. I know it does matter.


texts: Tiny House Sewer System Advice - Automatic Sewage Pump or Macerator Pump

texts:
I'm in the process of doing some landscaping and want to run some electrical / plumbing for a future house (building next summer).

The plan right now is to have a storage tank behind or below the tiny house for waste water then pump it 60' or so to the main house's sewer line.  I'm debating between the following (pretty similar):

Automatic Sewage Pump

These are usually used for basement bathrooms where the main sewer line is above the plumbing. It consists of a tank with a pump inside of it. When the pump detects the water level has reached a certain height, it automatically turns on and pumps out all the waste in the tank through 2" pipes (usually vertically).

Pros:

Runs automatically
Tried and tested in many homes

Cons:

Doesn't macerate (cut up) waste at all, worry it could get stuck somewhere along the 60' of pipe or something.
I have 1.5" pipe sitting around. Poor excuse, but would be nice to get rid of it.

Macerating Pump

These are more often used to pump out waste from RVs. They connect to the holding tank (externally, as opposed to internally for the sewage pump). When you turn them on they'll macerate (cut up into 1/8" pieces) and pump the sewage out through the 3/4" output.

Pros:

Macerates to reduce chance of clogging.
Need smaller pipe (only 3/4")
Pump is external (easier/less messy to maintain / replace).

Cons:

Not automatic. Could wire to a switch and many have sensor to detect moisture so it'll automatically turn off. But still, not automatic.
Haven't really seen them used in house (tiny or big) at all.

Anyone got any experience with either of these? Any feedback? Any suggestions?

Thanks all!


texts:
Okay so I have some issues left from the former owner.

I need some additional items in home and a heating system repaired. The aluminum 60 & 70 amp circuits serve current unit. But I am being told they are not allowed to use aluminum. The circuits run to a disconnect box. So can I switch to copper from there for new heater? There is no ground so do I add direct ground connection to unit through a grounding rod? Or should I just do a subpanel and ground that?

Is the double wire coming out of one breaker unsafe? And what is the green lite ground fault doing connected to the neutral bus? What is this?

If I change this, does this mean a rewire of whole house?


texts: Can I increase air volume by adding more fans?

texts:
I have a straight 25 foot rectangular duct that is 0.9 sqft in cross-sectional area (11" by 12"). There are openings on either end, and nowhere in the middle. I wish to move about 1000 CFM through the duct.

My plan is to use "duct booster fans" to do all the air movement. I can get a 10" diameter 650 CFM fan, and a 12" diameter 800 CFM fan (which is slightly larger than the duct). Here are some options I'm considering:

buy two 650 CFM fans, and install them in series: one where the air goes in, one where the air goes out. So the fans will be about 25 feet apart. Will their throughput add to about 1300 CFM? I suspect the answer is no, because nothing good ever adds linearly. But would I get close to 1000CFM?
buy two 650 CFM fans, and install them in parallel at one end of the duct. This would require either widening the duct or somehow splitting it into two ducts, as two 650 CFM fans side-by-side will not fit in the duct. My intuition is that this would be worse than putting the fans in series, but maybe not?
buy one 650 CFM fan and one 800 CFM fan, and install the 650 blowing into the duct and the 800 sucking out of the duct (or maybe the other way around?). Because the 800 CFM fan won't fit in the duct, I would have to build a larger frame for it, then connect it with some sort of funnel to the duct.
same as above, only with two 800 CFM fans.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Do Most LED Hallway Lighting Fixtures have replaceable lamps

texts: Most traditional hallway lighting fixtures have replaceable lamps (bulbs).  I've been told that with LED sconces that "most" do not have replaceable lamps.  For an apartment building that would mean replacing the entire fixture every 5-6 years, assuming a 50,000 hour expected life, since they run 24 hours a day.  That doesn't seem acceptable.


texts: What will I need to repair the grout in a small section of my bathroom?

texts: I had my bathroom redone last year. Everything is still perfect except for this one tile that popped up just a little bit.Visually it does not bother me at all, but the cracks in the grout worry me and do not look water tight.  There are some hairline cracks away from the main cracked up area where the tile is raised. I would like to repair them, but I have not done work with grout before. Should this be an easy fix if I allow the one off tile to lay as it is? What tools and other items would I need?


texts: Should I move an HVAC vent to the ceiling or on the opposite interior wall?

texts:
The below picture shows the current position of the vent (the white area over the sink). The blue patch above the toilet is a small window.
The plan is to relocate the bath tub and position it along the wall so it will cover the vent. The new layout is in the second picture. The glass between toilet and tub is optional.
I am trying to understand where I should vent this duct. Should I do it on the ceiling or completely move it on the opposite wall? I don't know if I can try to re route it in the vertical wall, that will add some direction changes.


texts: I've found a collection of things in the house I just bought and I'm not sure if I need to hold onto them or throw them all away. Can anyone help me identify what these things are and if I need them? Are they expensive?


texts:
My A/C is having problems for the last few days. My outside unit which the main motor is always cycling off and on every 3-5 minutes and the room temperature is not improving.

This happens even when the inside fan is working just fine. However, the problem starts when the A/C is turned on, it doesn't matter if the room is cool or not.

Kindly please assist me. Thanks.


texts:
My well water pH is 7.06 as measured by an accurate and calibrated tool used for wine making. I have around 15 gpg of hardness. My question is why I am getting between .5 - 1.0 mg/L of copper in my water. I measured the copper where the water enters the house and it was 0.0 (no copper pipes outside house). Inside is a different story. It is below the EPA action level of 1.3 mg/L but I'd rather not have any copper corrosion. With a pH of 7 and the hardness level I have would this indicate something wrong besides water chemistry? Electrolysis?

Also, when the water softener was activated the problem was way worse. Bypassing the softener brought the copper levels down. This makes me think it is a water chemistry issue.


texts: Do tub drains of the same diameter ever have different thread-per-inch counts?

texts:
My tub's drain flange has had the little cross piece inside it broken out, which means I cannot screw a grid drain into it.  Right now, it's totally open and an invitation for my toddler to drop stuff down.  Not to mention lots of hair, etc.

I believe I need to replace the drain flange and put a grid drain on top of that (I want a grid drain like a shower instead of a typical tub stopper).

"Drain flange" terminology from this image.

I have measured the diameter across the drain at just under 2" which I believe means a pipe thread size of 1.5" (from http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html).  However, I thought I remember learning that drains may be either coarse or fine threaded.

Before removing existing drain flange, is there any way to know if it is coarse or fine threaded, or are all 1.5" drains the same as far as thread count goes?  I want to be sure to order the correct part, whether I do the work or hire a plumber.


texts: Knee brace support hold down bracket for treehouse

texts:
I cannot seem to find the right bracket to use as a hold down on the tree side for a treehouse knee brace beam.  I need to find one that can bolted to the tree and hold two 2x8's. It looks just like this but I can't find it anywhere.

Also, how do you attach the knee braces to the corners of the platform? There seems to be various ways of doing that. Thanks!


texts: fuse panel and sub panel replacement with no ground to be found

texts:
Replacing an old fuse panel with a new breaker panel, and a remote fuse sub-panel (on the other side of the basement) with a new breaker sub-panel. There is no water pipe anywhere near the incoming service and no ground rods.

I plan on installing two ground rods (but existing the incoming service appears to have a ground) and then bonding the main panel ground to the nearest water pipe. I will bond the sub-panel to the main panel using a separate ground bar and keeping the neutrals isolated from ground in the remote sub-panel.

Do I ground both the existing service ground and the ground rods at the main panel?
Does this sound like the best way to go?


texts:
I got these fasteners with table legs that I bought for a formica table top. I get that I need to embed the outer part with the big thread into the table, and then use an Allen key to fasten the bolts into that.

But how do I get the outer part into the wood? Do I drill a little hole and just screw it in?


texts: How to tell if an air-separator is working

texts: We have a Spirovent Air-Separator on the hydronic heating system, between the boiler and the circulator.  How to determine if it is working properly to remove dissolved air bubbles and has not been clogged by minerals in the water?


texts: In my garage, the owners put insulation between the studs to insulate, but didn't cover one of the walls with sheet rock.  It's just a wall of insulation that is starting to fall out.  Can I put plywood or something simple over the area to 1. keep the insulation from falling out 2. allow me to hang small items on the walls?  This is a similar question to one from Jan. 13, and you mentioned Tyvek on the walls.  Is that better?  Thanks!


texts: GFCI randomly trips (very infrequently)- can I replace it with a regular outlet?

texts:
I have a GFCI outlet in a bedroom that I use as an office that randomly trips.  This is very infrequent, maybe once a month and doesn't seem to be connected to electricity usage on the circuit (computer off, lights off, only the internet box running is the most often situation).  It's behind a bookcase and it's a pain when it shuts off and we are trying to use the internet elsewhere in the house.
I'm assuming that the current GFCI is faulty due to the infrequent random nature of the issue, and I feel comfortable replacing the outlet, but I don't see a reason that it should be a GFCI. As stated, it's in a bedroom with no running water or water of any kind. There are a couple of floor mounted outlets in the room so I wondered if that was the reason for the GFCI but that's the only thing I could think of. There is a bathroom on the other side of the wall which I believe may be on the same circuit, but the only outlet in that room is a GFCI, and it never has issues.


texts: Attic knee wall custom ripped top plate - Will it work?

texts:
Can I use a table saw to cut a 4x4 at an angle to replace the top plate in this knee wall to salvage the wall?
Background: I have an attic bedroom which lacked insulation. The rafters are only 2x4s so my sister convinced me we should install these 2x3 along the rafters to place the insulation between. Unfortunately, now I'm realizing that this make the rafters into thermal breaks and I'd much rather remove the 2x3s and layer foamboard directly over the 2x4 rafters to avoid this. Problem is, going back to the normal way to frame the kneewall would require all new lumber. I'd like to save the wood and work already done by just replacing the top plate. Is it possible to do that?


texts: How to attach vinyl bracket to cement post?

texts: I have a vinyl fence post that was filled with cement. The vinyl fence panel brackets were screwed in before the cement was added so this wasn’t an issue,  But now a few brackets have broken off and I am having trouble replacing them. Every vinyl screw breaks when I try to go into the cement even when I pre-drill a hole. And the cement screws don’t seem to be holding.  Am I just not using the right screw, or is there a better way to attach plastic to cement?


texts: Why do pleated blinds have to be 2 centimeters wider than the windows they are covering?

texts:
I recently bought pleated blinds and just now realized that they are not wide enough. The instruction says they have to be at least 2 centimeters wider than the window (on each side) they are covering. They are missing 3 centimeters on each side.

What is the reason for that requirement?

The mounting system can be seen here:

Mounting system part 1:

Mounting system part 2:


texts: How can I build a shuffleboard surface that is movable?

texts:
My friends and I are planning on building a shuffleboard this weekend. However shuffleboards are pretty long (~16 feet) and moving the full board is going to be a pain.

How can we build it so that we could move it later? One problem is that the shuffleboard surface is supposed to be lacquered and very smooth, and we want to be careful to provide a good playing surface.

I would appreciate some ideas about how to build it.


texts: I've determined this isn't bearing any weight, but what about as a lateral member?

texts:
So I have these two ugly columns I would like to remove, plus the soffit above it.

I've been thinking for a while that I wanted to remove them and open up the room, but I wasn't sure if they were structural. Today I finally drilled a hole on top of the soffet and opened it up. The walls of the soffet appear to be 2x12s and the top and bottom are just drywall. Above the columns is a 2x8 straddling the 2x12s and below the columns is nothing.

I drilled into one of columns and determined they are plaster so those columns cant be structural.

As far as the 2x12s, I did my best to get a photo of the inside. The first photo where you can see the insulation is an exterior wall and the photo looking down the soffet to the other side is the left side of the column. Also, there is nothing on the exterior of the wall that the 2x12s would connect to.

So the big question, do you think can I safely remove this?


texts: Why is large voltage drop a problem if within nameplate rating on motor?

texts:
We are in the process of trying to find out why 1/0 AL wire over 400' of length to supply a 2HP motor for a Bifold Door is being pushed so hard by door manufacturer.

We have a door on order with a 2HP motor, rated at 230-208 volts with approximately 10 FLA @ 230 volts.  The spec'd OCPD is 30 amp.

To supply this motor, we have a long run of 400' from the meter with 240 volts supply (242 measured).

In an extreme situation of minimum wire size (10 AWG) with triple the inrush current of FLA (30 amps) we would get a voltage drop of approximately 10% down to 216 volts which is apparently within the nameplate rating of the motor.

Why is large voltage drop a problem if the operating voltage is within nameplate rating on motor?

that is...

If the name plate says "230-208 volts", why would 216 volts be a problem?

We are aware of many solutions all involving a varying amount of cost and effort (larger wire, buck-boost transformer, etc) but we do not understand the root of the issue.

We have been warned of damaging the motor in short order if we deviate from the recommendation of 1/0 AL wire in any way but the recommended wire size would only have a 1.5% voltage drop @ 30 amps.  We are trying to understand why the recommendation.  Is it more than a voltage issue?


texts:
I live in Chicago, which means our home is wire pulled through conduit rather than Romex.  I am trying to replace a single switched ceiling fan and I can't tell what all the wires are for.

The old installation was a single switch that controlled the light and fan together, however, when I opened the box, there were extra wires that I think are meant to control the fan and light separately.  I'd like to wire a double switch to the fan and light if I have the right wires already present.

In the switch box when I open it, there are:
-two blue wires connected to the bottom of the switch
-one yellow wire connected to the top of the switch
-two white (neutral) wires nutted together in the switch box

In the ceiling box where the fan is installed, there are:
-one yellow wire attached to the fan and light wires
-two neutral wires connected to the fan/light neutral wire
-two blue wires nutted together in the ceiling box.

I am guessing the blue and white wires continue on to another fixture or outlet, but nothing else is connected to the switch in question.  Any ideas what I am looking at?

The switch box:

The ceiling wires:


texts: How do I clean a stainless steel gas cooktop without harming the surface?

texts: How does one remove the burnt-on grease spots on a stainless steel gas cooktop without harming the stainless?  I have used all types of gentle detergents.


texts: Wiring Diagram for Double Gang Box - Double Toggle Switch + GFCI Receptacle

texts: We are replacing old outlets in our new home (built in 1969) and currently have a double gang box in the kitchen, with a double toggle switch (each switch controls one of 2 kitchen lights) and a regular outlet. We want to replace the double toggle switch with a new one (same configuration) and replace the outlet with a GFCI receptacle, but can't seem to get the wiring right to control each light separately via the two switches. Does anyone have a diagram for what we would do for this configuration?


texts: Do I need to 'burn out' the LP in the gas lines prior to swapping out an appliance?

texts:
I need to replace the flexpipe between my steel pipe and the propane insert. The one installed is too short.

Alas, there wasn't a shut-off installed at the fireplace, so I needed to shut off the LP from the tank outside.

I figured before I unhook anything, I should try and burn out the LP in the line via the gas range.

Question 1: Is that a necessary step? Seems that's safer than letting what propane is in the piles leak out into the room as I decouple the connections.

Question 2: How long should it take to burn out what's left in the line? I've been running the burners for about 10 minutes now. The flame has gone down, but it's still going (there's maybe 40' of pipe between tank outside and range).

(PS, I will be installing a proper shut off valve as I replace the flex pipe to avoid this in the future.)


texts: Why am I only getting 92V at receptacles?

texts: There are about 5 or 6 receptacles in 2 rooms that all stopped working at once. We were getting a reading of about 92V and it's a 120V circuit. We changed out the receptacles but still the same results. Any ideas for me to fix this? Extension cords through the house are no fun.


texts: How to fix a sewer pipe leak in a prefab concrete floor

texts:
My house is built with prefab concrete slabs for walls and floors. These have been prefabricated with most of the plumbing and electricity tubes pre- installed inside the concrete.

While redoing the bathroom I drilled an 8mm hole right through one of these sewer pipes in the ceiling (I think it must be PVC since the part coming out of the ceiling is PVC). On the floor above we have a washing-machine and two bedroom sinks connected to this pipe (all pipes are inside the floor). If we open any of these taps, the water comes through the hole.

How can I fix this? Do I really have to break away the concrete or could I get away with plugging the hole with silicone kit (being careful not to block the pipe above with excessive kit). Would it become a problem if the concrete keeps getting wet near the leak?

If I really have to remove the concrete, how should I do it? I guess that when I use a jackhammer it would only cause more cracks and leaks in the pipes?

Another option might be to saw the large PVC pipe, and try to fix the leak from the inside of the pipe, maybe with polyester or some epoxy type of product?

Edit: the pipe appears to be about 55 mm deep inside the concrete and is about 80 mm in diameter. The floor/ceiling is at least 200 mm thick (rough guess).

Edit 2: After talking to a professional contractor, his advice was to use some kind of chemical plug with two components. I don't know what the components are but it did sound convincing, and I'm willing to give it a shot if it saves me breaking up the whole cealing (which I can always do afterwards if it turns out to be a flop). He'll be doing it for me next week if I agree (special tools are needed, so it would not be economical to do it myself).


texts: The power source is from a receptacle to three lights. A switch was inserted in the box at the first light. Is it better to wire the switch between the power source and the first light? If not, how do you wire the switch into the same box as the 3 lights and power source? Pretty crowded in there.


texts: How do I level areas of a wall that had peeling paint removed?

texts:
In our bathroom, we have 'thick' peeling paint  on a section of a wall.  I started to peel off big pieces...and have stopped where it doesn't come off easily.  Now I'm left with a wall that is partially covered in a layers of paint and partially bare...just showing plaster.

So, the two surfaces are not level.  What can I use to level the bare parts of the wall upto the thickness of the painted areas?


texts:
I removed a ceiling of plaster panels and found that on the original concrete ceiling there is a glue residue of some glued-on styrofoam tiles. (See picture)

Before I get the plastering redone, I have to remove this residue. Are there like special glue removers for this type of work?