texts: Does running a dryer on 120 V drive up electricity costs?

texts:
So I have a ventless dryer, and it's a relatively new LG model (LG DLEC855W 4.2 cu. ft. Compact Electric Dryer) that I have hooked up to a 120 V outlet.

I know it's not supposed to run on a 120 V outlet, and it honestly doesn't work great, but it does work, it does run, and it does eventually dry clothes.

However I have huge huge electric bills every month, US$600+ for a 900 sq foot (80 m2) home. I live in Florida and electric prices are average down here and even though it is summer it should not be this ridiculous. My only thought is that my girlfriend and my brother do laundry constantly and I'm not sure if this dryer, running on a lower voltage, drives up the price or not?


texts: Using a second thermostat to balance temperatures thru fan-only control

texts:
Like many others, temperatures between the two levels of my house are uneven. This is particularly noticeable as spring arrives and the upper floor (above ground) enjoys solar heating (so the heater never runs) and the lower (in ground) floor cools off.  Frequently, I manually turn on the furnace fan at the thermostat to circulate air between floors and this basically achieves the goal. But then I forget to turn off the fan override. So, I'm wondering if I can install a second thermostat on the lower floor to automatically control the heater blower only when the temperature falls below a given threshold on the lower floor.

Givens:
1) I have a recent model high efficiency natural gas heater
2) my current Thermostat is Honeywell TH4110D1007 Programmable Thermostat
2) access to the heater on the lower level is trivial

Assumptions:

1) I can add a second thermostat in parallel

2) I would only make some connections from the new thermostat

3) 24v Power is supplied with the Red wire

4) Heat is controlled with the White wire

5) Fan is controlled with the Green wire

6) I'd be using a simple programmable Honeywell thermostat

7) I'd need to manually set similar time periods and temperatures as are set on the existing "master" thermostat.

Note: In my current plan, I am NOT trying to turn the heating on - just the fan.

So, my specific questions:

A. Has anyone ever done this?

B. Would I connect the Fan wire or would I actually cross connect the thermostat's Heat connection (W) to the fan control wire. i.e., to get automatic fan control, would I use the G or W wires to signal/control? Or, am I totally mixed up?

C. Am I risking my entire system for something risky?

D. Is there another better way to achieve the goal?


texts: I'm installing 6 halo daisy chain to an old light switch.  The house was built around 1947. The current power is starting from the switch to the 1st light housing and the wiring is connected from 1st to 2nd housing and 2nd housing to 3rd housing, 3-4, 4-5, 5-6.   Do I need to close the circuit back from the end of my daisy connection.  Do I make my un hot black wire a neutral wire?  Not sure what to do.


texts: Fireplace project- how to lower the top of the fireplace

texts:
I decided to hummer down my old-style boulder-faced fireplace.
The project took two days, but when I was finished, i realized, the the actual fireplace opening is bigger that it was before, because it was faced over the top of the opening.
Now, I can’t just leave it, since I need to put TV over it, and currently there is not enough ceiling height (and no one wants to watch TV 10’ in the air).
Any advice on what can I do to cover the opening and make it like 30” instead of 36”? Maybe do metal framing and durock it? I am stuck.


texts: What is the name of these silver curtains used to reflect heat energy back outside?

texts:
Some people use aluminum foil to reflect heat on windows but I find it very depressing and bad-looking thing. My Chinese friends use 台州涂银反光窗帘布 but I have no idea what it is in English: they translated it as a silver curtain and galvanized curtain. According to them, it is available at least in Beijing's IKEA and Shanghai's IKEA but apparently not in Europe or I just cannot find the right term to describe the special curtains to reflect the heat. This material is like a aluminum foil canvas but more durable. It is easy to use during travelling and studying particularly in places where you cannot carry a 30kg central-cooling unit like here.

This is how it looks like on window: the side of sun is covered with this silver curtain and the other side to the room is the canvas knitted together. It is very hard to notice this unless you know what you are looking for but it keeps the room cooler and darker -- great!

What is the name of the silver curtain? Which kind of factors should I consider in choosing a curtain? Which silver curtain reflect most heat and blocks well light?


texts: Can I hook up a smart thermostat to a "high efficiency gas forced air heater"? Are there any caveats?

texts:
I got some help from folks here identifying this as a gas unit heater.
I'm wondering if it's safe to replace the thermostat with a smart thermostat, and if there are any caveats,  E.G.  minimum on and cool down settings. (Should I be wary of regular home heating advice given this kind of heater, or am I over worrying?)
The main reason I want to get a new thermostat is that this thing currently reaches target temperature, turns off, then kicks back on when it falls 1 F (or not even, it seems), which is way too often for my poorly insulated apartment. I'd prefer something like 5 F.


texts: Field-stone Foundation on Top of Bedrock, Keep the Water Out?

texts:
I have a field-stone foundation built on top of bedrock. Due to the slop of the bedrock, water collects outside and runs down under the wall. As you can see from the pictures, moisture gets in.

I have a couple ideas for keeping the water away from the foundation (I'm open to more though), but also, is there anything I can do inside? Of course I'm also worried about erosion.

Outside: I was thinking of either french drains that lead the water away, or angle the soil next to the foundation and layer it with stones.

Inside: ?


texts:
Problem:

After heavy rain, water pools around our basement furnace. After climbing onto the roof, I found a mysterious (plumbing?) vent.

This post seemed relevant, but 0.5 gallons comes in after a good rain. It seems more than just a flashing issue.

There are 2 such vents on the roof, in addition to the original chimney.

Question

Would putting some sort of cap on top of the vent fix this?
What would such a cap be called?


texts: What to do if the wall has too many repairs?

texts:
Joint compound fixes the look of the wall, but it is not hard enough to hold another hole, correct?
Underneath the compound the support is gone (concrete, wood, etc.)
If a wall already had too many repairs (compound filling holes) and I drill one more that is right by a hidden former hole, what to do? This won't be secure enough to hold items to the wall.
So the main question is: A wall that has had too many repairs, what to do since it seems unreliable to hold new fixtures?
Can this actually  lead to damages in the structures, if two/three owners along the years drill too many holes?
Is there a code, standard for it? Because people simply go and put joint compound to visually hide the hole. But the hole in the underlying structure is still there.


texts: Can level quik be poured over wood subfloor

texts: HOME Depot will install Laminate in all the floor of my house. My first floor is concrete, my second floor is wood, they use level quik to level my second floor. My question is that if they can use it? In the future is it possible that it will crack and I will hear noise in the first floor when somebody walk in the second floor? Or some water is possible to go into the wood subfloor? Thank you very much and appreciated your advises.


texts: If the freezer in my refrigerator is not freezing, should I turn the unit off?  The compressor is running and the fan is also.


texts: Would this be an effective method to remove painted popcorn ceiling?

texts:
Sand off tops of "popcorn bumps" with rotary sander or multi tool (like bosch multi-x).
Spray with vinegar and water.
Use elbow grease and a scraper.


texts: Recipe for homemade Sugru (Oogoo) that permanently adheres to objects

texts:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Sugru-IMPROVED/ has a reply of:

  Let's see... 1.5 units (by volume) of cornstarch mixed with 2 units of silicone. Add some kind of paint for color. OR maybe 3 units of silicone mixed with 1 unit of cornstarch. Experiment with variable ratios. Read the Wikipedia article on Sugru, learning they mix Silicone, talc and other ingredients... don't inhale or light cigarettes while experimenting, right?

And there are a metric ton of Youtube videos like this one that go into detail about how to mix it.  But on that video you will see the application is for making molds, and he used various materials on the yet-to-be-solidified mixture, and after drying, pulled the objects off of it to show little to no adhesion onto those objects he is molding upon. For my purposes, I want initial moldability for a few minutes, but then "stickability" comparable for the original Sugru. Basically, I actually do want the resulting Oogoo to stick permanently to those objects I apply it to.

To accomplish this, is this simply a matter of experimenting with the ratios of silicone rubber and corn-starch, or do I also need to add in those other ingredients such as talc etc to get the same/similar level of adhesion properties?

Another way to say this: Is there a particular reason the Sugru makers chose talc over corn-starch, or is it simply a choice based upon their production costs?  I speculate that DIY'ers might choose corn-starch over talc for reasons having little to do with adhesion properties (use with the resulting product with food preparation?).


texts: Seeking clever ideas \ suggestions to pole mount water timer

texts:
I would like to mount the timer to a pole, which would be staked into the ground.   The timer would sit 10 inches above the ground. I do not have a clear idea what would be a simple effective means to mount the timer to the pole.

If parts were available via Amazon or Home Depot that would be great: links are appreciated.  Looking forward to clever ideas or similar examples of work (photos).


texts: How can I remove a plank from the middle of the field?

texts:
My attic has tongue and groove planking down as the floor, and I need to do some work up there. I'd like to only remove a couple planks in the middle of the field, rather than pulling up half the floor to get to the point where I need access.

The planks are nailed down (face nailed), and there is not a large enough gap between them to get any type of saw in to cut the tongues (nothing thicker than a razor will fit). The floor will have to be put back together when I'm done, so I don't want to do too much damage when removing the boards.

How can I remove a few boards in the middle of the floor, without damaging any of the planks (too bad)?


texts: How to repair after drilling through an electrical cable

texts: Drilled directly into this wire.  Didn't trip a breaker, no sparks, didn't get zapped, didn't lose power anywhere.  I know when we had previous work done on the house, there was a 220 wire that was dead in the walls/ceiling.  Contractor traced it back to the box and it was disconnected there too.  Did I happen to get extremely lucky and hit the one wire in there that wasn't live?  Now what do I do? Also, out of curiousity, had that wire been live how likely would the risk of severe injury been from a screw up like this?


texts: What is causing the loud, electrical humming noise in my walls?

texts:
I have a loud electrical sounding humming noise that is vibrating through my house, and appears to be coming through the adjoining wall of my neighbour's house. It starts and stops at any time of day or night, even with my electricity / heating / water turned off at the mains.

I have asked my neighbour to flick off his mains switch to try and determine whose house this is coming from, but he is not willing to do this. How can I detect / monitor where exactly the noise is coming from.


texts: I'm replacing my old bathroom fan with a new fan/light combo. The new fan/light has four(4) wires, but the existing switch has only three(3) wires. How do I wire this set-up? There are white, blue, and black wires on the fan/light, and what I guess is a screw for the ground wire. But the existing switch wires are white, black, and a bare copper wire. I really want the fan and light to come on with a single switch if possible. Is this even possible?


texts: GFCI keeps tripping from garbage disposal

texts:
I’m having a problem with a GFCI outlet that keeps tripping all of a sudden.  I installed a garbage disposal and GFCI outlet under my sink seven years ago.  The last few days every time I use the garbage disposal, GFCI will trip ~3-4s. later and flash red two times.  I’m able to reset the outlet, but only to trip again if I use the disposal.

I’ve no clue why it’s tripping after seven years with no problem.  Should I replace the outlet or is there something wrong with the disposal?

Thank you in advance!


texts:
My fan on my A/C compressor unit seems to start and even spins up to a reasonable speed, although not quite the speed at which it ought to spin, but then 5 seconds later slows down to a very low speed where you can almost see the individual blades. The run capacitor was clearly blown (the top had mushroomed) so I replaced it. However, that did not solve the problem at all. In fact, the pattern I just described did not change at all.

Should I replace the start capacitor as well? (I'm kind of doubting it since I would guess that a faulty start capacitor would prevent it from starting in the first place.) What else should I try before I call an expert?

Here's the video of what's going on.


texts: Is my detached garage ceiling capable of handling the load of drywall and insulation?

texts:
I'm looking to drywall and insulate my detached 3 car garage that measures 40' x 25'. The ceiling joists are 4' OC and I've realized thay may be a problem.
The previous owner contracted a garage contruction company to build this detached garage in May of 2000. I've recently been researching and have figured out that I will definitely need to add strapping or some way to ensure that the drywall won't sag.
Main question is: Is this construction capable of bearing the weight of the drywall and insulation?


texts: An asbestos panel was removed without realising, how much danger are we in?

texts:
Two years ago a builder was working on our Victorian house and removed a approx. 1 ft x 2ft6 panel, then realised it might be asbestos.  He said he got rid of it safely, and didn't damage it, and that everything was fine and we didn't think much more of it.  After seeing recent campaigns about asbestos we are now really worried about this incident.

The house was still rather dusty when we moved back in from all the building work (extension etc).  The floor under the carpets was only quickly swept, so would still be dusty underneath.

Have we been living in asbestos dust for years?

How serious is this?

What, if anything, can we do now?


texts: Do I have to turn off "everything" when replacing thermostats?

texts: I am about to replace my two thermostats. There's a lot of switches on the "control panel" (litterally) for my heating system and I am not familiar with procedures and afraid to turn something off that won't come on again properly. Maybe I only need to turn some of it off? See picture below.


texts: What is the correct way to install an air admittance valve on a 1 1/2" line?

texts: I am installing a new bathroom sink in our basement. The drain line is 1 1/4" into the wall and I plan on using a 1 1/4" trap. I am installing an air admittance valve (code in my area). The vent will be on the horizontal waste line under the sink. Do I need to use a wye or can I use a tee? I am not seeing many options for a wye in this smaller size. I would assume using a 1 1/2" trap reducing into a smaller drain line wouldn't be the best move?


texts:
I live in a rental house. My pit bull terrier ate the drywall and now I have a home inspection coming up.

What can I do?

I have a picture just don't know how to post it.


texts: Can I use vodka to clean my wine cellar?

texts: I want to use vodka to clean my wine cellar, does it leave lingering odors behind and affect the taste and aroma of my wines.


texts: Second LED bulb in each fixture burns out, what should I replace?

texts:
We have a number of inexpensive light fixtures in our house, each of which takes two bulbs.  Most, but not all of these, are on newer dimmer switches (two with sliders, one with remote).  We're having a consistent problem where one (but only one) of the bulbs in each of at least 4 different fixtures fails every 1 to 4 months.  The other bulb will continue working, at least for the 2 years since we installed them.

Since LED bulbs are supposed to last for 5-10 years, and are difficult to dispose of, this bulb burnout is kind of a problem.  So we're looking for advice on what is most likely to be the problem, and what I need to fix/replace to stop burning out bulbs.

Here's what the bulbs & fixtures have in common:

The fixtures are all inexpensive "home depot" models.
Because of their shallow profile, the fixtures are effectively fully enclosed (do LED bulbs overheat?).
All bulbs are supposed to be dimmable
The LED bulbs are on the more inexpensive end, most having been purchased from CostCo.
Bulbs are from 9.5W to 13W
Dimming works fine, up until the bulbs fail
The electrical wiring in the house is mostly from the late 1980's, but some of it may date back to the 50's.

Here's what they don't have in common:

The two slider dimmers are older (made for incandescents), but the dimmer with the remote is new and supposedly LED-compatible
The one in the dining room tends to flicker for a while before it dies, but in other fixtures the bulb just burns out.
Burnout (again, one bulb only) has also happened in one fixture that does not have a dimmer.
There are two different designs/models of fixture involved.
The dead bulbs did not show any strong evidence of damage from arcing, as (presumably) they would if not making contact was an issue.

So, ideas/suggestions?  What is the most likely cause of this one-of-two bulb burnout, and what's the first thing to try replacing?


texts: Can my pex line freeze if I use 90 degree elbow connectors?

texts:
I'm installing a sillcock outside my house and I'm trying to create a drainable line so it won't freeze in the winter.

Here's the setup from the outside in:

This entire run is located through a basement crawl space that gets very, very cold (freezing?) in the winter.

8" frost-free sillcock connected to sharkbite 90 degree elbow (going straight down).
1' of pex to get under floor joists
Another 90 degree sharkbite elbow.
30' of pex slightly angled down. running under floor joists.
Last few feet enter the heated space of basement.
Finally connected to drainable ball valve

I'm concerned about the two 90 degree elbows but its the only realistic way to get from the outside of the house and then under the floor joists.  Will this be a problem?


texts:
I just recently got a 1200 watt power inverter as a temporary backup for my 1/3 horsepower sump pump. The sump pump is rated 8 amps at 105 volts so I believe the max power it uses is 960 watts. I used a kill-a-watt meter on it and found that when it is running it is using on average 580 watts although I'm sure its much more when it is starting momentarily.

I was wondering, would I be able to use a pair of jumper cables to connect the power inverter to my deep cycle marine battery? I mistakenly believed that this power inverter would come with a pair of cables but it did not.

Edit: Also, I see that there is a voltage and overload protection built into this power inverter so I was wondering would I still need another fuse or would that not be necessary since the sump pump will be the only thing connected to this inverter and it would only be used temporarily in the case that I lose power.


texts: What could be causing my solid stained doors to make cracking noises?

texts: I have new solid interior stained doors and they all keep making cracking sounds when they are closed and left open, even though no one is touching them.  Can you please tell me what it is? I am sound asleep and get woken up by these sounds.


texts: Building a retaining wall with dense concrete blocks, best way to lay each course?

texts: I've seen a few walls that use the top method versus the more common stretcher/running bond, are there any benefits to doing it the first way?


texts:
I'm unable to get the bolt out of a door. For a couple days before it was sticky, and you could push in the bolt on the inside of the door frame to functionality "reset" it  so that the lock would turn.

Unfortunately it's jammed inside of the door frame and I'm unable to get it out.

I've removed the lock coverings and am using a screwdriver to turn the inside mechanism but it doesn't seem to be catching anything and I don't feel any movement of the deadbolt itself. The only thing that is moving is the little tab above the cylinder.


texts: Which product do I use to treat garage walls that " sweat "in the winter

texts: Which Product do I waterproof the garage walls with in winter as they are sweating


texts:
I'm running a few outlets to my basement from the main panel on the first floor. Since it is a garage, sealed 3/4" pvc conduit runs through the concrete into the basement. This connects to a metal junction box and 3/4 emt, with metal junction and outlet boxes the rest of the way. There are two 20 amp circuits and one 15 amp circuit for the lights. I know that I can use the emt itself as the ground path as long as it is connected to the main panel. My question is: Would it be code compliant to run one ground wire from the main panel, through the pvc, to the first metal junction box, and then ground all of my outlets to their outlet boxes further down the line? Thanks for the input!
-Matt


texts: How do we remove a 1940 Crane tub spout base adapter that is inside the wall?

texts: We have a 1940 Crane bathtub spout that leaks when the shower-head is on.  We want to replace the spout, so we have removed it but need to remove the base adapter (correct term?) that is inside the wall. We have been unable to find the right tool that is compatible with the fitter on the old adapter. Does anyone know where we can find one?


texts: Is it possible to power/turn-on LED lights through a lamp switch?

texts: I'm trying to make a lamp from my gf's favorite beer.  It's a bomber(16oz) bottle that I'm running a DIY lamp kit through.  I'd like to add two little red LED lights that are connected to the switch of the lamp so that the lights act as little red eyes on the bottle.  Does anyone know if this is feasible?  Will it need its own power source or can I run some extra wire from the light switch and power those two lights too?  I have zero experience with this and could ultimately do the project without the LED lights but it would be that extra special touch for the holidays.  Any help or pointing in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Flat roof with deep Skylights that create heat

texts: The roof has 40x41" skylights which in the desert creates a lot of heat. Will there be a problem later if the opening at the ceiling is drywalled and sealed?


texts: Need to increase door height in bungalow

texts: I am in a  bungalow with the doors into the bathroom and 2 bedrooms all being different height. I'd like to increase the door height and shifting the header up seemed like a simple thing. however...this is what i found and i am not sure how to proceed... i was not expecting a double header. then again i know nothing about this. any thoughts are appreciated. not sure about load bearing


texts:
This armored wire shows 2 sets of wire crimped and a ground.

For box fill would this be considered 3 or 5?

Does this increase amprage and voltage allowances?

Is there any other circumstances a cable like this be used?

Is there a name for this?

I realize this is a specialty wire for a specified purpose.


texts: Proper size drain and venting behind new bathtub

texts:
I'm a plumbing newbie and I'm adding a bathtub where one didn't exist before and I want to make sure that I am plumbing the drain properly.

I have a 2" drain available to me directly below the tub and a 2" vent available on the back wall behind where the faucet will be.

Is it okay for the tub drain and trap to be 1-1/2" and then go into a 2" vent/drain?

I've attached a picture of my mockup.

Further down the line I'm fairly certain the 2" line goes into a 3" toilet which is separately vented. It's under concrete but the 2" line goes in that direction.

Thanks!


texts:
The plumber connected the cold water pipe to the red colored valve on the boiler and the hot water output pipe to the blue valve. Is this correct?
 We are having problems with the hotwater. We get a little but then it stopped now it is just lukewarm.


texts: I am struggling to remove the light diffuser of this surface mount light so that I can replace bulbs. Any help is hugely appreciated.


texts: Do shower water supply line covers need to be sealed or caulked?

texts: I don't know what the proper name of the cover is that hides the hole that the water supply line comes through the wall, but does it need to be sealed to prevent moisture and steam from getting in to the wall?  If so, what material should be used?  Plumber's putty, caulk, silicone?


texts: How can I securely hang a hammock on trailer framing?

texts:
I want to hang a hammock indoors, but my trailer has dry wall ceilings and walls, you know, thin trailer walls. I am scared that it will not be able to hold my weight in the hammock, since I weigh 148 lbs.

Also I believe the wall would be too flimsy to keep the screw in it. Any advice or tips? Or better ways of setting up a hammock to where it won't collapse, or where I don't have to use a screw?


texts: How powerful of a hammer drill do I need to make holes in a concrete ceiling?

texts: I want to mount a cornice for curtains on a concrete ceiling. So I believe I need some kind of hammer drill. I would like to know, how powerful should it be for this kind of work?


texts: Does XPS+OSB subfloor need to be anchored?

texts:
Mike Holmes is a big fan of OSB/plywood over 1" XPS for basement floors, though his book leaves something to be desired in terms of details. His book says:

  ...on top of the foam, you want to have 5/8" tongue-and-groove
  plywood, which should be screwed through the foam and into the
  concrete floor. This should be done with Tapcon screws, which are
  designed for concrete...
    -- Make It Right p165

(Notice it doesn't say anything about how many Tapcons or where to put them.)

The Building Science Corporation also likes plywood over XPS. RR-0309 - Renovating Your Basement says:

  ...sheets of extruded polystyrene can be installed directly on the
  slab. The joints between sheets should be sealed with tape or mesh
  imbedded in mastic. A plywood floor can then be “floated” over the
  XPS insulation in either of two ways. If sufficient room height is
  available wood sleepers (2X4 or other dimensional lumber) can be
  installed to which the flooring is mechanically fastened... If room height is minimal, tongue and
  groove plywood with the butt ends of the plywood joined can “float”
  above the XPS insulation.

No mentions of any fasteners (or adhesive), and specifically refers to the plywood as "floating".

To further confuse things, I've also seen suggestions in forums to anchor around the perimeter about 4" in from the edge @ 24" O.C, plus one in the center of the floor. This also seems plausible since it's basically how Dricore is installed (for carpet).

So what do you think? Should this type of subfloor be anchored, and if so, how?

Update: Most of my reading is giving the impression that anchoring is just to control "bounce" and warping. This makes me think you wouldn't need very many screws per sheet, particularly considering that 1/4" tapcons embedded 1" have a pullout value of at least 750lbs, and a shear value of at least 900lbs. But then there's these guys talking about 20 or 32 screws per sheet, which seems like madness. Maybe that's just if you're installing hardwood floors?


texts: How to heat a bathtub when the water heater isn't doing enough?

texts:
I have a big tub and a small water heater.  I live in an apartment so there's not much I can do about that right now.  I've looked into immersion heaters and from what I can tell they aren't meant for bathtubs (don't produce enough energy), and/or take a long time to heat the water.
What are alternatives that I can combine with the under-powered water heater to get my tub water hot?


texts: Leaking basement caused by poorly graded sidewalk

texts:
Along our sidewalk on the side of the house we have a 5ft section of cement that slopes directly to the house. The water pools from the steps back towards the window. About 8 inches to the right of the window is where a leak comes down the interior basement wall. I have tried caulking the crack that was along the foundation and the sidewalk. It may have slowed the leak but there still is water that comes in when it pools up there. This pools up simply because of the grade and not the gutters.

Honestly,  I am fearing a very expensive fix for someone to tear up the sidewalk and lay new cement. Are there any other options that I can try before going that route? If not, any clue how much it would cost to fix something like that in Colorado?


texts: What does "by half an inch" mean when talking about rest channel?

texts:
This video shows how to install the resilient channel to the ceiling.

It sound like the tutorial is saying (a video link with a time stamp)

  because we're installing the
  rest channel by half an inch, so you want
  to make sure that you lower all your
  device boxes about half an inch

Does "by half an inch" mean the height between the bottom of the resilient channel and the ceiling joist is equal to half an inch?

The distance between the top plane and bottom plane of a resilient channel should be determined by the manufaturer, rather than the builder, right?

The cited talking gives me a feeling that the distance is determined by the builder, which confuses me.

Any ideas?


texts: How to connect a new thermostat with different terminals than the old one?

texts: I have bought two new thermostats to replace my old worn out ones. We have a oil burner furnace with hot water radiators around the house. No cooling. The problem is that the two thermostats have different terminals. Especially the lack of the "RH" terminal on the new one is confusing. I have attached pictures of the old and new thermostats. The old is still connected as it was. The black cable stump connected to "RC" on the old thermostat goes nowhere it's just there. I have one thermostat on each floor in my house. They are both wired the exact same way. My question is how do I connect the the wires to the new thermostat that doesn't have the RH terminal. It has G, O/B, Y, W, RC and R terminals. See pictures below. The old thermostat on top connected as it was. Maybe the new thermostats aren't compatible with my system?


texts: Trimmed too deep on door side, can I save this edge?

texts:
On the long side of my door, I was trimming using a saw (I know, I now own a planer) and my angle was too deep.  I realized it and stopped, so now I have a cut with the outside piece still attached at one end.

I was wondering if just wood glue or gorilla glue would be enough to rejoin the sides?  After it sets, I could plane it to try to get it a bit more even.


texts: First time home owner - books to introduce different systems and things to know (Closing in another 2 weeks)

texts:
We are closing on our first home (townhome built in 2000 in NJ) purchase in another 2 weeks, we are very excited at the same time concerned about not knowing anything about homes. Is there any books or articles (links) which introduce to all the systems in a house and how they work and things to know (Example - When I was applying for home insurance, the agent asked if there was a sump pump and if it has back-up power , which I have no idea).

What are the different systems that are there in the home and how they work?
Things to know(in a car analogy we need to change oil every 3 months, is there anything in home where we need to constantly monitor/maintain)?

Any help / links / good books


texts: Can baseboard trim be used for window and door casing?

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Why baseboard trims can't be also used as door moldings in rooms? For example, floor molding of size 1/2" x 3-1/4" would perfectly fit as door molding. Are there special requirements for door casings that don't allow use the floor moldings?

Thanks.


texts: Why does my dryer duct have such a long vertical portion?

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My dryer duct follows this path:

Flex duct leaving the dryer
Four feet of vertical rigid steel duct down into crawlspace
Eight feet of horizontal rigid steel duct, immediately below the floor
Outlet approximately at-grade

90% of the vertical portion is above the floor. Since the dryer's outlet is near the floor, it seems like I could get more effective venting if I cut the vertical portion down to 1' and shortened the flex duct accordingly. Why is there a four-foot vertical portion? Does it have some rodent-control purpose since the outlet is at-grade?


texts: Vacuum sucked in some of the grout between tiles, how to fill the gap?

texts: I was vacuuming these tile floors and the grout came off. Should I fill it with cement? Is it damaging to leave it like this, should I not mop it?


texts: I had a spa panel installed when the home was built for a future spa.  Now we've found a spa and it requires 60a breaker at the panel.  The panel has a 50a breaker in it.  The panel inside the house at the other end has a 60a breaker.  The wire between the panels is 6 AWG copper.   I've read 4 gauge wire would be better for the 60a but also that the 6 gauge wire is enough and is what is required per the spa manual.  Can I just swap the 50a breaker for a 60 at the spa panel and not have to install 4 gauge wire and a 60a spa panel?


texts:
I need help identifying the siding in the picture. I like the style a lot. Fwiw this house is in the middle Atlantic on an area that has a decent bit of humidity and moderate winters.
Overview:

Detail:


texts: Can I bury insulated flex duct in blown insulation in the attic?

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I've heard mixed information on this.

I am replacing all my old ducting with new r6 flex duct. Continuous runs with no leaks.

Some recommend suspending it above the blown cellulose insulation, but I'm not sure I understand why I should do this. My reading suggests that the insulated ducts will sweat and get my insulation wet. I find this hard to believe but I see it mentioned a lot.

It will be much easier to blow insulation over the ducting, burying it.


texts:
My garage is about 20" x 24" and I have made attic in the Garage by adding plywood, insulation & sheet-rock, It is nicely done and as soon I finish this project, i realize, i do not any ventilation. I do have furnace in Attic.

Please provide feedback and suggestion, if i need to have Attic Fan?

BTW, I am live in San Francisco South Bay, CA.


texts: Why do my radiators need to be bleed at least once a fortnight?

texts: Last winter, our radiators regularly lost their heat and consequently needed bleeding frequently. I couldn't see any obvious leak. What could be causing this and what should I check for?


texts: How should dual motion sensors be connected?

texts:
One supply parallel to connecting two motion sensors. In between lights connected. Lights common for two sensor.

In same time two sensors activated in the sense any problem happens sensor and lights.


texts: Double joists separating on outside edges of deck

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My deck has double joists on the east and west edges that seem to be separating. I imagine water is getting into the space between them and prying them apart. This deck is located in Minnesota.

In the images, you can see the joists are screwed together. there also seems to be some glue residue. The cracks have small rocks and debris in them.

How can I fix this?

I have many issues with this deck and will likely have to ask several questions on this site. The scope of this question is simply what to do about the double joists that are separating.


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Is mounting the PCT-MA2-P2 behind an interior wall a code violation?

The power (15VDC 250mA) to the PCT-MA2-P2 is input via RG6 coax cable with F type connector.  The media room on the second floor has coax from the master bedroom closet on the first floor.  I want to feed the antenna from the attic directly to the input of the PCT-MA2-P2 in the wall of the media room below, and then connect the coax cable from the master bedroom closet to an output port of the PCT-MA2-P2 to carry the antenna signal to the master bedroom closet.  There it will connect to the input of a similar device with eight output ports connected to RG6 cables distributing the antenna signal to the other rooms of the house.

The PCT-MA2-P2 will be accessible through the hole where the wall plate is mounted.  The wall plate will have two F type ports: one to feed power to the PCT-MA2-P2 and one connected to the other output of the PCT-MA2-P2 to bring the antenna signal to the media room TV.

For aesthetics I'd prefer only adding another cable to the view as opposed to three cables and the PCT-MA2-P2.  The second picture does not show the PCT-MA2-P2 device in the wall nor the second output cable connected to it which is going to the central distribution point.  I will probably adhere a piece of furring strip to the inside of the back wall with Liquid Nails® and screw the device to it so it can be seen through the hole.  This is Texas, USA.


texts:
I am planning to run two sets of four-wire cables (two hots, one neutral, and one ground) through the same conduit to feed two subpanels from a single main breaker panel. I understand that I need to derate the ampacity of the cables to 80% because I am running them in conduit without maintaining spacing, but I was wondering this table, the very last section shows the 100% rated ampacity for SE cable as a feeder, but that seems to assume 90°C terminal ratings, which the subpanels (see page 6 here) are not rated for. They have a 75°C terminal rating.

Does this mean that I need to take 80% of 75°C rating presented in the first table to get my conductor size (ex. 1GA Cu conductors for 100A capacity) or can I take 80% of the feeder wire specs (ex. 2GA Cu conductors for 100A capacity).

I understand the difference is literally one wire size, so it's probably best to oversize than undersize it, but I want to know how I should be reading those tables properly.


texts: New light switch has blue, black, and white wires. Wall has black, white, and ground. Can I make it work?

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I bought a new light switch that is supposed to allow me to automate my lights easier. Here is what it looks like:

It has blue, black, and white wires. Coming out of my wall, however, I only have a white, black, and ground. The instructions say that I need two white wires or else the switch won't work:

Do I need to have a major rewire operation done to get this light to work? Any suggestions or ideas?


texts: I dropped a thumb tack down the drain, should I be worried?

texts: It’s a small plastic one like you would use to hang a poster or calendar. Sink drain


texts: GFCI (panel) breaker trips on neutral connection

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I have a circuit previously with a regular 15A breaker, powering some lights, a closet outlet, and two (tile) floor outlets.  This latter is now going to power a large aquarium.  Because these outlets are recessed into the floor (and wet mopping could conceivably get into them), I think they probably should have had GFCI protection all along, but I definitely want it with the Aquarium.

The house dates from 2005, by the way, so the wiring is not particularly old, and was (hopefully) done to a recent code.

Rather than guessing what was upstream of what, I opted for a panel breaker.  It's Cutler Hammer style, and I added the breaker, hooked the white from the load to the white terminal, the black to the black, and the pigtail back to the neutral bar where the original neutral was (and indeed it was there).

Note the circuit works fine with the regular break, but trips immediately on reset.  I've unplugged everything but the lights and it still trips.  Perhaps more interestingly, it will trip with the hot disconnected from the breaker, but just the neutral connected.

The breaker does not trip with no neutral and no load black connected (but with the pigtail connected).

Here's my guess -- somewhere in the house, no idea where, the installing electrician connected this neutral to some other circuit's neutral.  Both may be still connected to the panel, but due to distance the extra neutral is causing a problem.

Or guess #2 - somewhere in the house, on this branch circuit, the neutral is hitting the ground (though frankly I don't think it would cause this symptom of tripping with the neutral-only connected to the breaker).

Does that sound correct?   If indeed this is the problem, it is pretty hopeless trying to find this, some wiring is in the slab, some in the attic (much of which is pretty inaccessible).

Or is there something else I can check?

The obvious thing is start disconnecting circuits, but because of the light/outlet mixture that's easier said than done.

Lacking a better idea I'm going to put a GFCI on the first outlet in the floor -- it won't really protect that outlet (or more precisely the wire leading to it), but at least it will protect the aquarium equipment itself.

Any ideas what it could be?


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We are selling our house and just moved about 30 mins away.  The finished basement had a dehumidifier but no hose because we don't have a drain.  Unfortunately due to distance it is not feasible to go and empty the dehumidifier regularly and the basement is getting a musty smell.
We do have a window in the finished area and I'm wondering if it makes sense to get a window AC?  Any other suggestions?  The only other thing I can think of is a dehumidifier with  a hose that routes to the window but I'm not sure if that is a good idea?


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I'd like to install a smart thermostat in place of my old mercury coil thermostat. The old thermostat controls both heat and AC - it uses only 4 wires, the new clearly requires 5.

Wiring to the thermostat won't be a problem as it is inches away from the furnace and the 4-wire will be easy to replace with a 5-wire.

I've taken the panel off of my furnace and see there is a transformer and a common wire. There is a notice that says "yellow 24v common wire is for outdoor unit only" Does this mean I can't add a yellow wire to my thermostat?

Inside the unit I see yellow, black, blue, red, green, and white wires. I have blue, white, red, and green going to existing thermostat. can I just loop a new 5-wire brown wire to that yellow?
Edit: Furnace Photos:

It seems there are two brown thermostat wires. The first goes into the wall and has 4 wires and emerges where my thermostat is.

As near as I can tell, We need a common wire. My furnace has a transformer:

There is a warning on the door of this transformer:

A closer look at the rat's nest...

I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. I know it's a suntherm H02 series heater.


texts:
I see 20kW backup generators advertised for homes, but this seems like total overkill, or maybe my math is wrong?

According to my energy bill I use about 400 kW hours of electricity per month. So, that would be about 13.3 kW hours per day or 0.5 kW average load. Now, if a generator can generate 20 kW, then it would be total overkill, 40 times what is needed. Am I calculating this wrong?


texts: Hi i have had my stove isolator moved but having some problem now. the circuit breaker stays up for a while then trips, but the stranger thing is that my breaker trips even with nothing on. what can the problem be?


texts: I would like to buy a smart thermostat and I am confused about the C wire. I went to check my furnace in the attic and I saw a white wire connected to the C, I was excited as I thought that that was the C wire,  but then behind the thermostat, I have only 4 wires connected, a white one connected to W, a yellow connected to Y and green connected to G. There is another cut blue wire that is not connected. Is that the C wire? If the blue wire behind the thermostat is the C wire, why I don't see any blue wire connected to the furnace?    I am attaching a picture in the hope that someone can help me. Thank you in advance


texts: How do I repair my lawn mower wheel drive that doesn't stop?

texts:
I have Craftsman 917.388740 self-propelled mower. The original drive belt stretched & no longer had enough tension, even with adjustments, to move the wheels. Unfortunately, Sears online & phone parts, as well as other online parts stores, no longer show the drive mechanism on their parts diagrams or list a belt (I triple checked model number), so I didn't know what size belt to get.
I took the old belt to a shop & they sold me new belt that's a little shorter which I installed & adjusted using the knob on the drive lever. Now it takes off at high speed with lever in off position.

I removed corrosion & polished the inner surface of drive pulley.
I took the lever mechanism apart to make sure cable travels the full amount & lubricated cable which slides easily.

Unfortunately, the problem persists.
Does anybody know correct belt size for this model or have other recommendations?


texts:
I live in a 4 floor condominium in Makati, Philippines.
Recently, I noticed that my floor always feels damp.
My unit is at the 4th floor.
When I tried seaching it in the internet, I think it is a sweating slab syndrome issue.
However, articles in the internet do not have a clear description on how to solve this.
Is this something that can only be prevented but cannot be fixed once it is already there?


texts: How do I nicely cover this floor pipe in the basement?

texts:
So I'm adding flooring to my basement and I've got this sewer access cap thing in the way. I know I need to wrap the flooring around it and then I assume I'll need to cover it with something.
What is this thing and what are my options to cover it to look like it kinda matches my flooring?


texts: Our house is less than 6 years old and our cabinets are peeling.  How can I fix it?


texts: Widening cabinets to fit a OTR microwave

texts: Purchased an older home with odd custom kitchen cabinets. I am wanting to remove the ugly box range vent and add a box shelf and an OTR microwave, but the width between my side cabinets is 28 inches.  How big of a problem is it to move these cabinets over to increase the width.


texts:
I came home to unusual burning smell, and I checked out the bathroom and the room next to it, and the smell origin I found out to be the GFCI outlet in the bathroom.
However it was working fine when I inserted receptacle tester, this is how it looks:

What do I do now? I don't have the instructions I didn't set this one up, came with the house. Everything works fine just the red light seems to be unusual.


texts: How to remove this adhesive, is it a hard job?

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Here is a pic of some adhesive under my vinyl tiles.  The glue is brown, thick and strong.  I’m thinking to just cover it if the removal is a lot of work.

How can I move it diy and is it a hard job?


texts:
My boiler fires up but does it 4 times in a row and then does the same every hour. It's using a lot of money.

Should my boiler be doing this?

My landlord had a heating engineer out and he said it was normal. I've turned the radiators down and the thermostat on the boiler to see if that would help but it hasn't.

I don't know what to do and would like some advice please.


texts:
I'd like to extend my home wifi to my detached garage.  I have decent signal outside the building, about 100' & 2 walls from the home wireless transmitter.  But now that I've put the steel siding up, I get nothing inside.  I'm thinking of mounting a high gain antenna like this: HAWKING HAO14SDP Hi-Gain 14dBi Outdoor Directional Antenna Kit on the outside of the building.

And then running the cable through the wall to some sort of repeater/extender/wireless access point.  But I'm not sure exactly what I need for the inside.  Maybe something like this: HAWKING HWREN2 Hi-Gain Wireless-300N Range Extender Pro, but take off one of the antennas and connect it to the external directional antenna?

It would be nice to have something wall or ceiling mounted, but I haven't found something like that with an external antenna connection.  Shop area totals about 1000ft^2.

Any suggestions?

edit: This looks like exactly what I need, but pricey, especially till I by the $70 outdoor antenna. Hawking Technology HAW2R1 Hi-Gain Wireless-300N Smart Repeater Pro

What about Powerline Networking?  Bear in mind, this would have to go through 1 or 2 subpanels, and some stuff I'll be using in the garage tends to be pretty electrically noisy.


texts:
I know that when you hear a periodic chirping noise from smoke detectors, it means the battery needs to be replaced. I had been hearing such a chirping noise in my apartment building for a few hours, and just realized that the sound is not coming from the smoke detector(s), but from the hard-wired horn/strobe device in the hallway.

What could be causing this? To be clear, the alarm is not going off - it is making the exact same sound as a dying smoke detector, but from a hardwired SpectrAlert Classic horn/strobe device. We did just have an intense lightning storm in which the neighboring building lost power. Could the panel have been hit by a surge?


texts: How do I apply tile to a small wood platform?

texts:
I have done some research and mostly I have found that putting cement board on top of plywood is the general answer to tile on wood, but it doesn't really fit my situation as much as I had hoped...

I want to do a little project to cover the corner of my closet where my old cats' litterbox was. They used to pee next to it sometimes so it smells awful!  I plan to rip the corner carpet out, bleach the concrete floor, and seal it with poly. I thought about tiling that, but then I got a better idea!

I want to build a small base out of wood and then tile it mosaic-style.  That way I can put the litter box back on top (different cat, hopefully not the same issue as the other), and it will cover the area while still looking great and being able to move it if I need to so that when I move out I can put another piece of carpet down and the next owner won't have to deal with a little mosaic in the corner of their closet.

Do you have recommendations on how to do something like that?  Do I need to put cement board on the little wood platform or can I tile straight to it?  Must it be plywood or can it be something thicker like pine? Tips please, I have never worked with tile before!


texts: What should I do about this vanity that won't sit tight to the wall due to trim molding?

texts:
Slight goof during a bathroom remodel - the vanity we got won't sit tight to the wall due to the trim molding.
Obviously one option is to return the vanity and get a new one (ugh!)
Or I could let it be as-is, and live with the small gap between counter and wall.
Or I could cut into the trim to seat the legs further back, and hope that the eye isn't drawn down there much (it's not in a major sightline for the bathroom).
I am favoring the latter, I think.  What do you think?


texts:
My daughter's stairway has a ceiling light halfway down but basement landing area.  It's dark... it needs light.

I installed one of the new LED lights in the suspended ceiling, and ran its feed over near the basement 3-way, thinking I could attach there. That 3-way has two cables in the box. A 2-wire power from basement light, and the 3-wire going to top of stairs. The box at top of stairs has only the 3-wire. Can I add this light to one of the 3-ways?

Getting to the light fixture would mean getting in the attic, which I've done several times, but at 77, I'd just rather not crawl on ceiling joists :)


texts: How do I fix the compression fitting connection on my refrigerator water line?

texts: in replacing a broken water line from the water valve to the filter the old damaged line got stuck inside the compression fitting.  After I dug it out, the compression fitting will no long hold the plastic tubing.  other than replacing the entire water valve is there a way to fix this.  Sounds crazy but could I put glue on the tubing and then insert it in the compression fitting.  Please give me an easy solution, I am a elderly woman who does her own home repairs.


texts: what kind of shower handle do i need for this type of rough valve? I don't know name of old handle

texts: I am a first time DIY on a shower handle.  I removed our old shower handle it does not have a brand name on it.  The way it operates is that you pull knob out to turn water on.  I have tried a trim kit for a delta and a moen and neither seem to work with this type of valve.


texts: What is the advantage of a using a "Zone Controller"?

texts: Looking at most pre-fab hydronic panels, the provide a Zone Controller. Initially I though they were used to stage the activation of the pump until after the valve was able to open but, looking at most / all of the valves, they have "end switches" that will only switch when the valve is all the way open. Is the Zone Controller just a convenience device, providing power for valves and labeled terminals to help keep wiring multiple zones in order?


texts: Can i run my cables from the outside box to the inside breaker box through 2x4 studs?

texts: I am turning our carport into a living room and we have a 100amp breaker box outside that feeds power into the breaker box on the inside of our house. the conduit is going to be in the way of the wall frame. is it ok by code to run that cable through the 2x4 studs if i bored holes in them??


texts: Decking splitting before installation - how do I stop this?

texts:
Background: I deliberately ordered extra decking assuming that I would possibly ruin one, cull some, and perhaps a few might split, warp or cup as they dried.

Since then, all but a couple of the extras have split from the end.
Most of the splitters were the best looking boards.
I bought the length I needed for everything but stairs - now I have more then enough to make treads and risers and I haven't turned a screw.

Knowing replacement boards are quite scarce and that I will not piece in cut boards,
How do I prevent the rest of the boards from splitting before I install them?
Can I return these split boards to a big box and expect a refund?


texts: How to change wiring in outdoor electrical junctions filled with gel?

texts:
I moved into my current house 5 years ago and had a couple of outdoor connections fitted throughout the garden. I have never tried to do anything with them until now. As I open a junction box to add a new wiring I see this:

The box has a tiny hole, which I guess is where the gell was filled from.

I would like confirmation that I need to remove (very sticky) gel from the box, install a new connection and buy some gel to refill it. Is this the case?


texts:
I'm planning to cut down either a pine or beech in the near future, as I heard that the fall/winter season is a good time to cut trees if you want to dry the wood quickly.

After cutting a log the right size, I suppose my best bet is to try and hollow it out with the chainsaw first off, and then with hammer and chisel.

The log is going to end up being used as a leg for a coffee table, and perhaps another as a table itself.

My main question is this (if I have the above parts right):

How will I go about drying my log in the most effective way? - I don't think splitting is such a big issue, since I'm going for a rustic look, but of course the log has to remain functional as a table/leg.

Would it be an idea to seal the end(s) with a varnish/wax? (I guess there's only really going to be one end of this log, or perhaps I should also consider the hollowed out bottom to be an end still)

Thank you in advance!

I will be happy to link pictures if anyone is interested once I get started.


texts:
I have a junction box in which a neutral from one 2-wire cable is spliced to a hot from another 2-wire cable. Is it possible this is right?
I am currently learning about wiring as I try to untangle the problems in my new house. So idk if this is ever a thing that would legitimately happen. The thing is, there are two fixtures that I know of connected to this breaker (even though there are 3 cables) : one receptacle that works, and one that doesn't. So I want to say "eureka!" and just fix this box so it's all black-to-black and white-to-white. But I want to be sure before I do, especially since idk where that other cable even goes.
My voltage tester tells me that 1 and 2 have power, but 3 does not. To me, this looks like #1 is wired correctly, #2 is incorrect but works b/c it has a complete loop thru #3, and #3 is incorrect and does not work b/c it has no hot wire. So I suspect #1 is my working receptacle, #3 is my non-working receptacle (and I have no idea what #2 is).
Bonus question: That dead receptacle has worked in past, and died without explanation. Is it possible that if whatever is connected to #2 is switched on, that the receptacle on #3 would temporarily have power?
Thanks!


texts: Is my bath exhaust fan pulling dust into the room?

texts:
We moved some time ago and in the new washroom there is a lot of dust on the surfaces (I clean it nearly every day but next day there is a new layer). Only source I could imagine is the ventilation system. My guess is there is a missing part like a fabric layer or something on top of the shown part on the picture.

Is this assumption right and how could I add it?

Addition: On one outer side of the washroom is a fireplace. Once we start the ventilation (button for it like for light) when the fireplace is burning, the smoke comes into the washroom.


texts: How should I install a hoist given that the walls and ceiling are made of concrete?

texts:
I have this hoist, of the engine-lifting variety, which is designed to be installed below a pipe or beam. I do not have any load bearing pipes or beams. What I have are a poured concrete ceiling (9" thick, rebar reinforced) and two cinder block walls meeting at a right angle. The hoist will be supporting static loads of 200-600 pounds very close to the wall. This leaves me three options:

Attach the hoist to the ceiling. Requires:

metal plate(s) to provide vertical bolt holes outside the footprint of the hoist
vertical concrete anchors with high tension strength
very good hammer drill

Attach the hoist to angle brackets attached to one wall. Requires:

very strong angle brackets
horizontal cinder block anchors with high tension strength and high shear strength
decent hammer drill

Install a load bearing pipe at an angle between the two walls.

45 degree pipe flanges
horizontal cinder block anchors with high shear strength
decent hammer drill

1.1 worries me because the plate will be separated from the ceiling by at least the thickness of the bolt heads connecting the hoist to the plate

1.3 worries me because I might hit rebar and need a much better drill and bit set than I have

1.2 and 2.2 worry me because I've never done load bearing construction with significantly tensioned concrete anchors, and my usual habit of a 10x safety margin is hard to accomplish here

2.1 worries me because of additional points of failure

2.2 and 3.2 worry me because of the thin walls of a cinder block

3.1 is something I've never seen before

So, my question becomes, which of these is the best option, and would require the least hard to find hardware and tools?

PS: The bolt holes in the hoist housing for the pipe brackets are sadly not reachable from below while the hoist is assembled, and the hoist can't be re-assembled if the housing is bolted to the ceiling first. This eliminates the "easy" option of bolting the housing to the ceiling then installing the mechanical parts in it. I am sending an email to the designer of the hoist with this as a potential design change for their future products.


texts: My barbecue hose shows pretty serious cracks, after 10 years. Assuming I can find a replacement part, can I simply screw it in? Is there some tape or substance I need to put on the threads to be sure it is sealed correctly? Any special care I should apply?


texts: How can I properly vent a dryer whose ductwork comes up vertically from the ground?

texts:
How can I modify and correct a dryer vent that comes up through the ground as shown? It goes straight down, turns horizontal into the basement laundry room, then down again into the gas dryer. Rerouting through the brick is not an option. Should I angle it 90 degrees and add a traditional vent, or try to cap it with one of those "floating cup" vents that works vertically?
I'm in northeast US, so we get some snow. And judging by the chiseled hole in the basement wall, this was an afterthought. House was built in 1959, we bought it with this configuration in 2003.


texts:
I bought 1/2" x 4'  x 16' to install on a ceiling with 16" centers. When the lumber yard loaded it they used a fork lift in the center of the 4 sheets to lift it onto my trailer.  As they lifted it the panels flexed so much that it almost bent in half. I couldn't believe that it didn't break.

Now I'm concerned that flexing it that much could weaken it and that it might not be rigid enough to use on the ceiling. Would bending the sheets that much weaken it?"


texts: House built 1905. Adding an opening in an interior load-bearing wall. However the 2x4 (unmilled) wall studs are sideways, apparently to make the wall thinner. My question is how should I attach Jack studs sideways to King stud that's currently running from the top plate to the floor plate? Or is it necessary to actually attach the Jack stud to the king stud, and just toenailing the top to the new 2x12 header and bottom end ofJack stud to the to floor plate is sufficient?


texts: If I want to use a mini fridge for camping trips, but not between trips at home, and leave it unplugged until the day before the trip to cool it down. Will there be any detrimental effects to the life of the fridge?


texts:
My ceiling light won't turn off.  There are 2 separate switches to choose from to use.  Neither will turn the light off. One makes the light flicker a bit, but not off the other doesn't seem to be working at all.
This is a recent problem, has worked since room built 8 years ago.


texts: Leaking home water pressure regulator - how to know what repair kit?

texts: As you can see from the photo below, my pressure regulator is leaking. My research shows that I can buy repair kits but I cannot tell what brand/size kit is appropriate. I cannot find any markings on the body. Is there any way to determine what is needed before turning the water off and disassembling the unit? The pipes appear to be 1.25” diameter.


texts: Anybody know how to change my bathroom light bulb case/cover?

texts:
I just moved to a month ago and the bulb in my bathroom is dead. So I would like to change the bulb, but I cannot open the bulb case/cover. I try to find screw on the bowl-thingy that caging the bulb, no such screw. Anybody that electrician/handyman know how to open this?

Brand is cetek, but i cannot find any information on the brand.


texts: Trouble with identifying wiring for heat pump setting up Nest

texts:
The home I moved into has a Honeywell thermostat controlling an Amana heat pump. I am trying to replace this with a Nest thermostat instead. Here is a photo of the wiring for the existing thermostat before making any changes:

Nest wants me to identify both of the "Y" wires. How can I tell which one controls heat and which one controls cooling?

I'm also unsure how I can determine whether the heat pump should be set up for "O" or "B", though I've read that most are "O". Will I cause damage to the equipment if I set this in the wrong mode?

Which wire is used for emergency heat via the heating coils? Is that the W2 wire in the image above?


texts: What should I do with an old thermostat?

texts: I recently had a security system installed which also included a replacement thermostat. Should I just throw this old one in the trash?


texts: How to detect where water is coming from on external wall

texts:
I have recently moved into a new house and when it is raining two patches of water can be seen on either side of the front door:

The pointing has been recently done around the area and I cannot see any holes nor cracks in the brick work.

The only thing I can think is that there is a concrete step on the out side however this have been painted so water would not be absorbed? any suggestions to narrow where this could be coming from would be much appreciated.


texts: Can I repurpose this RJ45 setup for phone to run as Ethernet?

texts:
So my home is wired with what I thought looked like Ethernet ports. After trial of plugging in my computer and seeing that the ports weren't working as Ethernet cables, I dug deeper.

The wires that run throughout the house are all cat5e. My router is hooked up in the living room with an Ethernet cable running from the ONT port on the back of it to a port in the wall named 1A. Right next to 1A sits a port named 1B. all of these cables run to a central hub in the master bedroom closet.

after finding this hub I realized that all the Ethernet cables running throughout the house are connected to a telephone line switch. and above that switch is a small white box with AT&T on it that one Ethernet cord is plugged into (I'm guessing that's connected to the port that my router is connected to). If I wanted to run a few of these cords that are connected to the telephone hub as Ethernet to the rooms, is the fix as easy as buying an Ethernet switch, unplugging the cables from the telephone switch and plugging them into the new switch, and connecting the Ethernet switch to the small white box i talked about previously?


texts: I'm in a debate with my water company about usage. Are there any methods to verify that the reading on my water meter outside my house is increasing at the proper rate?


texts: Is it OK to have a 20 Amp receptacle on a circuit with 12 AWG wiring and a 15 Amp breaker?

texts:
I have a hypothetical question:

If you have a 15 Amp breaker connected to a 20 Amp T type outlet with (20 Amp) 12 AWG wire, is it within code, below code, or above code, where code means the National Electrical Code.

This is due to a discussion I had with a colleague that insists it is not within code due to the 20 Amp T outlet. I view it as the outlet may be 20 Amp and any appliance you plug into it that draws more than the 15 Amp breaker will support will trip the breaker long before any overheating or electrical damage will occur.

Now I will agree that having a 15 Amp breaker and using 14 AWG wire with a 20 Amp T type outlet could potentially overheat the wiring, as the draw could be just over the 15 Amp breaker which they tend to trip around 16 Amps.


texts: Extra unattached copper line under bathroom sink

texts:
So the bathroom sink has three lines underneath, all with shutoffs. Hot, cold, and another cold line.  The second cold line is unused and older (it's copper, appears to be 3/8).  Edit for clarification: yes, all three lines have shutoff valves installed.

If this was the kitchen, I would be thinking refrigerator or filter line.  But this is underneath the bathroom sink. Why would there by a third line in the bathroom?

I want to cap it off, stick it back into the wall, and patch over the hole. Any reason I shouldn't?


texts: Why is my furnace blowing hot air outside?

texts: So I have been having trouble heating my home.  I noticed today that there is a vent blowing hot air outside. It is not the return, chimney or venting. Any ideas other that the builder thought we should all play our part in global climate control?


texts: Dangers of connecting ground to neutral?

texts: In my living situation, there is no ground wire at the building. There is a ground AND neutral bus in the breaker box, but it doesn't extend to this separate building, which I'm living in. I've got all my stuff plugged in, including my computer and monitors, heaters, soldering station, etc. Recently I noticed that when my socked-foot is on the concrete and I touch any bare metal on my computer case, I get a tingle in my finger. I also just noticed the same thing while soldering and holding the piece of solder. I know what this means, and I'm curious if it would be super dangerous to bridge the ground and neutral posts in the outlets together. I know they're linked in the breaker box, and all the receptacles in this building are on a single circuit breaker. I know it's not advised, but since modifications like adding a ground post or running a new wire to the main building aren't possible, would this solve the tingly-finger issue? I live in the US and there is only single-phase 120VAC out to this building.


texts: What size door jamb should I order for a non-standard wall thickness?

texts:
So I have this 1961 year old House.

These days, when sheathing (plywood) is placed, it's placed directly on the structural studs, and nailed.

But my house has this strip of 11/16" wood placed across the 2 by 4 structural studs before the sheathing was installed. I have attached the picture. This strip of wood basically pushes the sheathing 11/16" away from the 2 by 4 wall studs.

on the first Picture, I am referring to the strip of wood that runs parallel to the ground. The second picture is closeup picture but flipped 90 degrees counterclockwise. But you can see the strip I am referring to.

So if I order a door with Jamb size of 4-9/16, will I still be OK? Or do I have to order custom? The door I plan to order comes with frame installation flange, and I want to keep that flange. So what do you all say? Thank you.


texts:
I currently came into possession of a desktop from Ikea that is sort of like the one in the link but it is 63 inches wide, roughly an inch thick. I am looking to put some legs on it that are about 27-30 inches long. I have came across something like this but I am not sure if the desk would be stable enough. Would those legs in the link be okay or would I be looking for something else?

Any help would be appreciated.


texts: Why is my shower head pipe very loose when the company installed a new tub and surround?

texts:
I don't know what the pipe is technically called, but it's the one that you attach your shower head to.  Well, after the guys finished the job and left yesterday, I noticed that this pipe is very loose.  I can move it to the left or right an easy 2 inches either way.  When I told him about the loose shower pipe, he blamed it on the previous installation when it never did that before with my old shower.

Also, when I checked the tub faucet head for movement, I swear I heard something fall and hit the subfloor behind the wall.  I told the guy about it and he said it was probably some blocking that fell and that it's probably nothing to worry about.

He said he'll come out and look at it.  In the meantime, can anyone shed more light on this based on what I've told you so far?  Is there anything I can do now to secure the shower head pipe in place?  What could that falling sound possibly have been?


texts:
This sounds an abnormal question at first, but I really would like to know how to make a normal table fan noisy (which parts to change). The reason why I want the noise is that the noise from the table fan is kind of white (distributed all over the frequency), that it hides the other noise. I have a busy street near my house. Of course, I could use a white noise generator but I also got some disturbing mosquitoes that needs to be blown away.

Thank you


texts:
I have recently taken down a wooden wall that was attached to a stone wall. I am interested in finishing the stone wall by repointing and leaving it exposed.
My question is about the wooden wall that still exists. I am not sure how to finish it at the end, where it meets the stone wall at a right angle.  I will be painting the pink wall.
Any ideas how I make the intersection look nice?


texts: How to wire a 2 bulb ceiling light to two different circuit breakers

texts: We live in a 2 unit townhouse that had a flush mount ceiling light in the shared hallway. Each bulb was controlled by a switch in each flat. When we turned on our light switch one bulb lit up, when the other flat turned on their switch on the other bulb lit up. If both switches are on both bulbs lit up. Each flat has their own breaker box and each bulb was wired to their respective switch and breaker box. When our ex-tenant was here they took it upon themselves to change the fixture and now nothing works. We would like to know what type of light to buy and how to wire it to get the same results we originally had.


texts: Concrete walkway work - considered acceptable?

texts:
Hello I just had a concrete walkway done and I feel like there are a few issues that are important enough to address with the contractor but I wanted a second opinion on what is acceptable and what is unacceptable.

The main issues I see are the risers of stairs are not finished well, and the bigger issue I see is there are some gaps and where the risers meet the runs, there's a weird Gap that slopes into one another.

Is all of this to be considered normal and acceptable work? My gut feeling tells me no but I wanted another opinion.

Thanks


texts: How do I reglaze my garage door windows?

texts: My garage door is perfectly sound but will need re-painting.  There is a small window at the top of the door and the putty is all cracked.  How do I go about changing the putty? before I paint the door.


texts: Old house, no Neutral coming from APS pole. Neutral vs Ground

texts: I'm installing some 110v Mini Split Air conditioners and want them on a separate breaker. The Main Panel only has 2 HOT wires coming in from the Mail Pole. The neutral wire is connected to the Ground Rod. My question is, "the Ac unit has three wires, Hot, neutral and ground. when installing the breaker, i know where the Hot wire goes but do i connect both neutral and ground to the Grounding rod or do just connect the white wire but then where do i connect the green one"? As mentioned, it's an older home but i just want to do this correctly. thanks


texts:
When using a pocket spring mattress with a pine bed frame, what's the best distance to leave between the pine slats to reduce wear?

Looking online, I have seen various space recommendations ranging from 1cm to 7cm (0.5 inch to 2.5 inches). I notice the smaller recommendations tend to come from older posts, so I am not sure if maybe the correct way of doing this has changed?

Also, I've seen that some gap is needed between the slats to allow ventilation (to prevent the springs over heating), so it's all a bit confusing to pick the right size!

It is for a single bed and the user is around 13st. Would a 3cm gap be enough or is that too wide for support or too narrow for ventilation?


texts: My mother's very small bathroom has one wall she could use to put a small, 3 shelf unit (weight 10 pounds). But when we went to install it, we discovered that there is a sheet metal vent approximately 1" in back of the dry wall which is some kind of vent for the apartment building. So no anchors work. Is there anything anyone else can think of that we can mount the shelf with? The toilet is on that wall and there is virtually NO horizontal space on either side ... otherwise we would have done one of those shelving units that stand around the toilet.


texts: Shower curb tile: OK to caulk rather than grout?

texts:
I'm trying to finish up our shower. We ended up using a Tile Redi (which was an ordeal, but that's another story...) which means that the pan, itself, is completely waterproof, and that the tiles are epoxied to it.
For the shower floor, we used hexagonal tiles and grouted them.
For the curb, we decided to go with large format slate tiles. As such, we have only a few gaps to fill (2 vertical, one horizontal) along the entire 5' curb. As the gaps aren't large, I can't use sanded grout and it occured to me that this might actually be a lot easier to just caulk. They are (nearly) black tiles and I'd use black caulk.
Is there any reason NOT to do this? As the curb won't be getting much direct water, I'm thinking caulk will last just fine on it.


texts: Remove tiles (and plywood underneath) around toilet without removing toilet

texts:
Is it possible to remove tiles and plywood from a bathroom floor around the toilet without removing it? If so, how?

The floor is ceramic tiles over plywood over floorboards, in a 1st floor (one floor up from street level) flat/apartment.  I'm trying to do as much as possible myself, before getting professionals in to retile and (presumably) remove and put back the toilet when needed.


texts: Replaced light fixture, now 3 way switch doesn’t work

texts:
I replaced an old lighting fixture with a remodel can and led trim, but in doing so the three way switches no longer work.

I didn’t touch either switch’s wiring, but now the switch with the circuit running to it has to be on for the other switch to function. If the first is on, the other switch can turn on and off the light, but if the first one is off, the second switch doesn’t work.

My next step is to pull out the switches and check the wiring, but I’m curious if replacing the light could have affected the switches somehow?

EDIT: now with photos


texts: Fire alarm has 3 black / white wires, 1 red?

texts:
I have a newish room (built in 2008, New York), and the smoke alarm had a wiring setup I am confused about. It has 3 black wires, 3 white wires, and 1 red wire. See attached picture.

Anyone know why there are so many wires? Shouldn't alarms just need 1 black/white? Not sure what the red was for.

I would refer to the original alarm in there, but the owner told me they don't remember how it was setup when they took it down.

Related, there are two wall switches in the room that don't seem to control anything - I am now suspicious that they go to this box, but no idea why you would want 2 wall switches going to the same box that has a smoke alarm?

Thanks


texts: Low water pressure on refrigerator water dispenser

texts: I have a Whirlpool Refrigerator model ED5VHEXVB00 and right now I have a low water pressure coming out of the water dispenser. The water filter needed to be replace this month and the light just turned red so I bought one and replaced it thinking that this might have something to do with the problem.  After replacing the water filter I still have the same problem.  Water pressure is very low and is making very thin ice cubes.


texts: Few questions about concrete/cement wall inside of the apartment and which screws to use

texts:
I live in an apartment building that has concrete/cement walls.  I am still not sure which one it is. I included the image which has the wall in the background.

I would like to know which screws i should use to let's say hang shelves or paintings.  Do i need to get concrete screws like tapcon and use an impact drive to screw them in?  Can i just make a hole and use plastic anchors with regular screws?  I did hang a picture on the wall but i had tough time getting the screws in with a cordless drill.  Some of the wall chipped a bit.

Also are there beams behind the concrete wall or there is no reason to have them.  I can just screw almost anything to it?  I have a beam finder and it does detect some beams but i wonder if it's a false positive because it is a concrete wall.


texts: My bathroom sink is clogged, water is slow to drain.  Cannot get plug out and do not want to tear it down underneath.  Pipes are PVC.  What is the best "liquid" drain cleaner or anything else to pour down.  Hope my 89 year old mother in law hasn't dropped her wig bobby pins down it.  Thanks


texts: Disposal tripping breaker and it’s brand new. It comes on for a second but then trips breaker

texts: Plumber just installed new disposal and it keeps tripping breaker


texts: The diagram shows 80" on the inside, with 4"x4" posts, why does it show 90" on the outside?

texts:
I'm trying to understand the instructions for this pergola, but to me, there's a 2" discrepancy...

The diagram shows 80" on the inside, with 4"x4" posts, so why does it show 90" on the outside? Shouldn't it be 88" on the outside?
Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: How to fix out of level foundation walls

texts:
I am building a detached two car garage and just had the footings, foundation walls, and slab/apron poured.  After the walls were poured, I thought that everything was hunky dory as the contractor said that the forms were level and they marked it before they poured.
Fast forward a few weeks and my dad and I used a transit level and story pole to get the level of the foundation all the way around just to be sure. Turns out there was about a 1.3-1.5 inch difference between the height of the rear and front of the foundation walls.  This out-of-level was pretty common all the way around the foundation.
Anyway, I asked the contractor to come fix it, so he came by and used this stuff to try and patch it and feather it to the high points:

I measured the level again today and it's still not perfect and in some cases it's not even close.  What's most alarming to me is I've never framed anything before and I need to start in the next few weeks but I'm concerned that the state that this foundation is in is going to cause a lot of issues.
Here's some more pictures from after the "fix."

Do any of you all have advice on how to fix this myself or on how to explain to the contractor how it needs to be fixed?  Or, is it okay how it is and the framed walls just need to be shimmed somehow?


texts: Multi-circuit transients without breaker trip

texts:
I have had some transient problems with the circuits in my house. About half of my circuits to several locations have a tendency to cause lights in the affected circuits (yes multiple circuits) to go out, but not trip breakers. It happens seemingly at random and affects washer, dryer, central air kitchen appliances, but not refrigerator. What is weird is that turning on the ceramic cook top almost always sends it into 'remission'. I spent over $350 for a licensed electrician to troubleshoot my wiring. He told me that I had no earth or cold water grounding. I grounded the ground/neutral bar in the panel to a copper clad rod outside the house 8 feet deep in sand and to a cold water copper line. I tightened the ground feeder to the main breaker. it was a bit loose. Can't tell about the other two feeder wires because I'm not suicidal with metal hex sockets. The transients are STILL happening. I'll call the electrician again because he should have checked those lugs. and the electric company says their end is all hunky dory. Is there anything else to check? I am not an electrician.

(Edit)I was able to observe the panel during a transient. Some rock wool insulation had fallen on the main 200 amp breaker. There IS arcing on the buss bar behind it. Ya'll were were right and i will likely have to replace the whole darned thing. Found reference here to my problem. http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/200-amp-main-throw-arcing-168804/
Thanks to all.


texts: Question Regarding Small Amount Of Grass Clippings Under Slab

texts:
Im going to be pouring my first ever slab in  30x26x4 dimensions.

This is in North Florida with a high & dry sand base. I've removed the top layer of sod, then some... All with a flat shovel.

After breaking up the ground underneath the 3inches of sod I removed there are thousands of little bits of grass and roots Ive been picking up. 1 small piece at a time...

My question is: Do I have to get all this out?

Hopefully slipping in an extra question: How important is it to get the existing gravel spread absolutely even (evenly dispersed) before putting this fill dirt on? (ie: rocks are more concentrated in some areas which Im trying to equalize)

Im wanting to start pilling on fill dirt Now but Im afraid that missing a toothpick size piece of organic material could spell an equal size crack later and hoping for input.

Considering unseen toothpick sized organic material within, Is this ready to apply fill dirt?


texts: Outdoor lamp installation without outlet box

texts:
I am replacing my old outdoor lamp. The new lamp has an X-shaped mounting bracket. However, my outlet does not have an outlet box (see pic), or may be there is one but the stucco has covered it. There is just a horizontal metal strip that I can see.

The old lamp was screwed into the screw in the center. However, the new lamp's bracket does not have such a feature.

Is there a way to install the "X" bracket to the horizontal strip? I don't want to break stucco to install the outlet box.


texts:
Can I replace my T12 fluorescent bulbs using LED tubes from Eled lights.com by just removing the ballast, or do I need to change any fittings?

How do I rewire the fixture if I remove the ballast?


texts: I just bought this switch plate. Problem is, it has a thick rim on the back, so that it sits about 3/32 of an inch further out from the wall than a "normal" switch plate. The switches are flush with the wall, so they work fine with a normal plate. With this one they sit back from the plate, and the result looks really ugly. What am I overlooking? How do I use this switch plate with normal wall switches?


texts: How to fix this switched hot wiring with voltage on both wires?

texts:
I while ago I asked this question while trying to install a smart switch. What's going on with this switch wiring?

The previous dimmer is a standard dimmer and it works fine. Lights have been incandescent and LED with no issues on that dimmer. New dimmer doesn't require neutral but does require ground. Would work at that location but worked in other spots.

Older home, old armored cable with 2 conductors and ground is through armor.

When I used a multi-meter to check the wires I got 120v between the two switch wires.

When I checked between each wire to ground (box) I got 70V from one switch wire to ground and 40V on the other.

What could be possibly be going on with this light/switch wiring and how can it be fixed?


texts: How can I make a nail-strewn lawn safe for bare feet?

texts:
Our landlord replaced the roof (cedar shingle) and now there are old nails hidden in the grass all around. My children loved to run around barefoot, but now I'm worried about them getting a nail through the foot.

The landlord used a magnetic floor sweeper and that helped a lot, but we still find nails from time to time.

Is there a way to make it safe it for us to run around barefoot?


texts:
I am replacing a light switch that contains two modules ie two gang two way and each module is labelled “Common, L1 & L2” and works perfectly this way and with the other switch.   All have one or two wires in each connector.

However the replacement is a single module labelled “L11, L1, L12, L21, L2 & L22”.  I am completely fixed and tried numerous combinations.

So my question is on the new module if I take the old module as a and second as b and new as c where does a-common go in c etc

Help


texts: I have terrible soil in my yard, because the builder scraped off most of the topsoil and sold it.  I need to aerate the yard and get some more nutrients in it.  Has anyone tried any  of the liquid aerification products?  I tried Aerify Plus, but it hasn't been long enough to judge if it is helping.


texts: protect drywall from self-leveling cement pour?

texts:
I'm finishing my home basement, and I made the mistake of installing the drywall before deciding to level the concrete floor.

So I'm trying to determine whether or not I really need to protect the drywall from the new cement as it dries.  The internet is giving me mixed answers.  Anyone know?  (I'll be using Henry 555.)

Yes, protect the drywall!

www.constructionprotips.com
thefloorpro.com

Nah, don't worry about it!

www.theartofdoingstuff.com (implied)
This installation video from the Henry company (implied)
Polmaster Construction & Tile Ltd. (implied)

Kind of ambiguous:

Home RenoVision DIY
In an email with Henry customer support, they said that have "no official recommendation" on the topic. I couldn't decide if that was code for "Yeah it works but don't quote me because we don't want the liability."

Notes

In most places the drywall is two sheets of 5/8" type X, with Green Glue in between the sheets, so I'm strongly against removing it prior to pouring the self-leveling cement.
I'm not worried about the possibility of the cement passing underneath the drywall and ending up in some other room. That wouldn't be a problem for this particular project.


texts: Can I reuse a /2 cable for a 120V subpanel? (formerly an old sub wired 2-pole 30A for my trailer)

texts:
I am putting in a 6-space 100-amp outside box with three 20-amp and two 30-amp breakers.

None of the new breakers are double-pole or 240V.

There is a 10/2 cable running there (formerly used for the double pole 30A, perhaps not the best possible installation, but there it is).

Can I hook up the three wires in the /2 cable (hot, neutral, and ground) to the panel wiring only one side/leg and then run a jumper wire to the other side?


texts:
We're getting a cat next week and we'd like to place the litter box in the cold room. There is just one catch: there is a super-loud dehumidifier running in that room and it would drive us crazy to hear that noise 24/7.
The noise is inaudible when the door to the cold room is closed, but when it is opened a crack the noise level is bad.
One option we're looking at is to install a cat door instead of leaving the human door open. I am afraid the cat door will reduce the noise insulation properties of the human door.
Another option I was thinking of is installing a spring that would slide the door closed, but I don't want the cat to get locked in the room.
Is there a way to soundproof a cat door so we can all be happy?
Is there an better solution than installing a cat door?
Update: I found another option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=201ITM4ANno. I could leave the door open and cover the crack with acoustic blankets. Based on this video, the noise level should increase by 5 dB instead of 10 dB without the blankets. The cat should be able to step around the "curtain". Downside: this will look ugly.


texts: Is this a displacement or just a blockage?

texts:
We just had an inspection done on a house we are buying, and during the sewer scope, the inspector found what he believes to be a displacement. In the video, at about 0:44, there is something suspicious on the top, and behind that, there is a substantial amount of water that wouldn't be explained by rain or any other discharge. However, the sellers have since said this:

  The plumber came on Saturday and said there is nothing wrong with the pipes based on the video. He just recommended hydro jetting the pipes which will make them basically like new.

The sellers are going to have hydrojetting done, and we're asking for video proof. In the meantime, I was wondering if any of you have an opinion on whether it's reasonable that hydrojetting can fix it?

Thanks everyone!


texts: Winterizing new wet-treated pressure treated pine deck

texts:
We’re in a townhome and replaced our small 2nd floor deck/porch with wet-treated pressure treated pine 3-4 weeks ago. We had to do it well in advance of the other units for safety reasons. There’s a ton of conflicting info about how to protect the wet type of pressure treated pine.

Important Factors:

We’re in the Chicago area. Winter is coming.
Porch will be fully exposed to the elements (rain, snow), including direct sun for the first half of the day.
Top of floor and railing has been protected with heavy trash bags to protect from the brunt of the weather but bottom half remains exposed.
Don’t want to do anything too fancy because of the HOA.

Some say not to do anything this type of pressure treated pine for 6 months to avoid sealing in moisture. I’d rather not have a deck covered in trash bags for another 6-8 months, but don’t want to leave it exposed to the elements.

What should I do?


texts: Moved/Replaced outlet, now it's not working

texts:
I (or someone doing work in my house) recently moved a 3-prong outlet up a few inches and replaced the receptacle.

The outlet is connected to a switch and is the end of the line on the circuit.
Using a non-contact tester, I get a reading from the wires in the box (not if I use the outlet holes). They give a reading when the switch is on, and no reading when it was off, just as you would expect.

I checked the connections and looked fine, I tried using another outlet in case the one I had was bad. Still no go. Any ideas what could be going on?

Note: There is only a 2-wire cable going into the box (black/white - no ground). I know I need to use a GFCI and/or label it (already a GFCI earlier in the circuit).


texts:
I have a Ryobi electric lawnmower, and I want to get the blade sharpened for the first time. I have a 15mm ratchet wrench, just like the instructions say, and I'm immobilizing the blade with a brick.

But no matter how hard I turn, the bolt just doesn't budge at all. I called Ryobi support, and they said the only other thing to try was spraying the bolt with WD-40. I assume the bolt is so tight because it hasn't been touched since being assembled at the factory.

I did that, let the WD-40 sit for a half hour, and tried again. The bolt still won't budge at all. What are my other options? I don't own an impact wrench.


texts: Why does my neutral read 115v with respect to ground?

texts: In a receptacle box I have two 12/2 wires untied. One reads dead (both hot and neutral) the other reads 0.1 volts from hot to neutral but it reads 115v from hot to ground and also 115v from neutral to ground. What is the problem?


texts: Do I ever NEED to remove the angle grinder guard?

texts:
As the title says. Is it ever NEEDED to be removed? I read somewhere that when sanding or using the flat wire I should remove it, elsewhere I read that wire cup brushes must be used with a guard. Is there any truth to that?

I'm not asking about personal preference, or "better viewing", etc, I asking about a situation where using a guard would be more dangerous or worst than not using it.

After some research on safety and dangers of the angle grinder, I find a aptly quote that sums my thoughts: "If I need to remove the guards of a tool, maybe I'm using the wrong tool for the job".


texts:
Here's an exhaust fan in the ceiling of a kitchen that's probably around 40-50 years old:

A non-contact voltage detector shows that the fan does get power when the wall switch is flipped on. However the fan doesn't spin.

I'm wondering if this size/shape/type fan is still on the market, or if a similar one could be retrofitted with ease without having to go up into the attic (there's no floor up there).

I wasn't able to find any model/brand written on it.


texts: Why are some rooms warmer than others with radiant baseboard heat?

texts: We have hot water baseboard radiation heat. How is it possible that the first room the hot water is supposed to heat is cold and the second and fourth room are to hot and the third and fifth rooms are just right?


texts: Small seam like line of tiny bubbles patched drywall

texts: Can somebody please tell me why this is happening and how to permanently fix it? Thank you!


texts:
I have a basement with a properly installed sump pump.
I have another hole approximately 1 foot away from the sump hole cut to the same dimensions.  There are at least 2 pipes that run into the unused hole that I thought were for drainage but the hole holds water. The sump pump and extra hole do not connect.

What is the second hole supposed to be used for?  Should I fill it in?


texts: It is emergency- I can't fix the button soon then I will have buy a new gas stove. How to fix this? I pressed the edge of the button too hard when locked. We don't usually use the lock so it was a surprise to me.


texts: Piping question for garbage disposal installation

texts: What do I do if the garbage disposal outlet is lower than the wall connection pipe?


texts: I have a set of canned lights that are switched from 4 different locations and each of those switches have 4 wires to them. How can I use a Dimmer Switch? I have installed Numerous 3 way dimmers in the house already, Lutron Maestro. Any way to use these? Or can you recommend what to use?


texts:
I am going to be constructing an outbuilding for livestock. It will be 32 ft. x 32 ft. I plan to use rafters instead of trusses. Is it OK to use 2x6's with 48 in. OC for the rafters at a 3/12 pitch? I will be using sheet metal for the roofing. Also, is it better to use decking on top of the rafters or 2x4 braces in between the rafters. I have added to pictures to explain what I mean:

The average annual snowfall in my area is 8 inches. The windiest month is April with the average wind speed at 7.2 MPH.


texts: How do I keep my well pump connections from leaking?

texts: Well, I asked the question at the end of last season on which hoses to get.  The new Summer season is upon us and I've located some comparable hoses (could not find the exact ones mentioned, but found some with the same specs).  Having a super hard time getting them installed as they're so tight, but did finally get them on.  However, even with 2 worm gear hose clamps on each end, they leak.  Drips a little water while priming, and sucks air when pumping.  What's the trick to getting these things to seal?


texts: How can I remove thick dust on the top of a wardrobe?

texts:
I am talking about dust that have been accumulated for years. The options that I've considered are:

a vacuum cleaner. However it's container is too small and it's very hard to use it on a ladder.
Using wet towels. It looks like a lot of work that will release dust to the air.
Applications using static electricity. I've no experience with this.

What would you suggest as the best practice?