texts: How do I level a summerhouse concrete base that dips in the middle?

texts:
I laid a 4x3 metre concrete base for my summerhouse/office thing. The corners are all level and so the summerhouse sits fine, but it dips in between and so the load bearing battens aren't taking any load.

I've been looking for solutions to this (without digging it all up) and as far as I can see, I can use self leveling cement stuff, or mortar.

The question is thus, as I don't need the entire floor to be perfectly flat as there is obviously going to be a wooden base added over the battens, can I use mortar or similar to just raise the floor under the battens to make then run level with the rest of the summer house. Or do I need to cover the entire base in self-levelling cement or similar to level the whole thing out?


texts: How critical is it to use the correct wire colors within the same electrical outlet?

texts:
I am replacing "razor only" receptacles to GFCI. The outlet contains a LINE cable (black, white, bare copper). The previous receptacle of course did not use three prongs, so the ground was just secured to the outlet box's grounding terminal (screw).

To install the GFCI according to the instructions, I need two new pieces of wire for the ground pigtail: one to the grounding terminal, and one to the receptacle's ground. See diagram below.

My small problem is that I don't have green or bare copper wire. I have suitable 6" 14 AWG wire scraps from the old receptacle, but they are white or black.

Would it be terrible if I used the wrong colors to make the pigtail? Electrically of course there's no problem. Potential confusion is the only issue I can see, but since it would all be in the same outlet box, maybe that's less of a problem?
It also occurred to me to strip the black/white insulation and thus have bare copper, but it is stranded (all the wires from LINE are solid), so that seems like a bit of a mess. Is that even ok to do?


texts:
I have these rusted screws in my garage door.

How do I remove them? I tried using pliers, a hammer, Water Displacement 40. Didn't come out.

Here is another view from the inside:

If someone has a tip regarding how to go about removing these two rusted screws, then please let me know.

Thanks kindly


texts:
I have a bathroom exhaust vent with louvers similar to the image below.  It vents out the side of the house above the bathroom between two bedrooms.  When it's breezy out, the flaps rattle so that it sounds like we've got critters in the attic.  (It was actually pretty freaky to hear, since we had just moved in.)
The bathroom fan is never (rarely) used, so I'm certain it's not the cause of the flapping.

So - is this normal and what's a recommended (quieter) alternative which would provide adequate exhaust without allowing pests to enter?

Sub-question - Last year, I blew in 6-8 inches of insulation in the attic.  What might be the likelihood of replacing the vent just from the outside without needing to trek up there and disturb/compact all my hard work?

Thanks.


texts: Can flexible baseboards come in lengths longer than 8'

texts: My contractor is telling me that it is not possible to get flexible baseboard moldings longer than 8'. But my curved section is 12'. I currently have to use 2 flexible moldings which I believe looks bad. How can I get a longer molding?


texts:
We just moved into an townhouse in Santa Monica, CA and one of the steps going down to the laundry/garage is angled down 5% as opposed to being completely flat (as the rest of the steps are). It is hard to see visually but you definitely feel it coming up/down the stairs. My wife is pregnant and it feels very unsafe. The manager says it is within code, and does not want to fix the issue (the step is made out of floating floor so I assume the cost to fix would be higher than he'd like).
Is this a common issue? What is the language I should be looking for in building codes that references this issue? Is this something we just have to live with?
Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts: How can I repair damaged plaster when I come to repaint?

texts:
I have a couple of problems with the plaster of my house, and when it comes to repainting, I want to try to fix them.
I've watched some youtube videos, and done a lot of googling, and although my search has produced a variety of products that I can use, I've had conflicting information and also such a wide range of products, that I am at a loss of how to proceed. It's also quite hard to find exact details of procedures, as there are many topics on what to use, but it's unclear how to apply.
photographs of problem areas are below.
Some are caused by penetrating damp, which is now fixed.
For the green, my plan was to try to sand the bumps away, and then apply something like "Polycell Ready Mixed Plaster Repair".
It's unclear if I have to remove the paint first, or how to even remove the paint as it's not really flaking. I was basically going to slap some on, and buy one of those trowels and try to smooth it as flat as possible, then when it is dry, sand it and paint it (first adding diluted paint as a primer).
For the yellow, I am really not sure, perhaps I can do the same thing?
The white at the bottom I really have no idea, I suppose again, the same thing but I am not sure how to get a clean edge.
I have read things about pva glue, stain block, joint compound (?) and all kinds of stuff, so I am overwhelmed. I am a total DIY beginner, the best I've done so far is just sanding and painting.
Any advice would be welcome.


texts: Replacing old below-grade sleeves/conduit

texts:
Our boiler lines and hot water lines are running from building to building through four 6" diameter sleeves (about 12ft long). They appear to be clay pipe but not sure. Anyway, rainwater now gets into all of them and, consequently, into our basements. We plan to replace with PVC but want to make sure we do it right.

We may increase the diameter to 8" Sched40 to accomodate thicker insulation around the boiler pipes. What's the best way to keep this new PVC 'conduit' watertight through our cement basement walls? What's the recommended method of support under the span (in Michigan)? And what considerations are necessary when burying them again? Thanks.


texts:
The specs on the ones at Lowes' and HomeDepot's web site were either unavailable, unimpressive, or confusing (e.g. 0.1 horsepower, 0 head pressure, 115 volts, etc.)  I found some available from Northern Tool and Grainger, however, that say they can achieve 50-55 ft of head:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200384668_200384668

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-NonSubmersible-Drill-Driven-Pump-3YU63

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-NonSubmersible-Drill-Driven-Pump-Kit-3YU62

What I need this for is basically filling up a few systems of copper tubes that range anywhere from 25 to 40 ft in height.  I'm not sure if they'll ever get any taller than 40-50 ft, but I suppose if I ever have to do that, I can just plumb two in series.

Any thoughts on the drill pumps from NT and Grainger?  Suggestions are welcome if anyone knows where to get better drill pumps (or something similar.)

PS: The drill pump will be powered by a Makita BHP452.


texts: Tile making clicking noise when stepped on and grout flaking away

texts:
I bought a house built in 1993 a few years ago. When we first moved in the tile seemed fine, recently two of the tiles right outside the shower have started making a clicking noise when stepped on and the grout has started to flake away around them.

Ideally I'd like to know if the underlayment got water damaged and is bulging or it was just a bad thinset job. One of the tiles that I can see the edge of is stamped July 2007 so I'm guessing the bathroom got remodeled around then. Whats the best approach? Re grout and ignore it? try to pull up a tile? if so how? use caulk instead?

We plan on remodeling this bathroom in ~5 years which is a while off, but we don't care too much about the look of this particular tile until then because it's covered in a bath mat most of the time. Here is a bunch of pictures and a video.


texts:
I have a tap with one handle for hot and cold water (not sure how to call it, it looks like the picture)

It worked good for about 2.5 years. But now, its handle became hard to turn and it makes squeaking sound when the handle is turned.

I wanted to oil it, but haven't found any hole where to put the oil.

How can I fix this?


texts: Why are some outlets not working in two bedrooms?

texts:
My room is next to my daughter's, I have 4 outlets, she has 3. None of hers are working. Only 1 of mine is working, but only with extension cord, and only sometimes. The others do not work.

I have had this problem for a while. They were supposed to have be fixed, but never were. I am wondering how I can help my situation, and be safe, for me and my daughter.


texts: Two Stage Propane Regulator with Splitter

texts:
I am building an addition, and I was hoping to run a new gas line into the addition directly from my propane tank to feed a new furnace and tankless water heater that will live in the addition.  I am wondering if I can split the line after the First Stage regulator on the tank and have two Second Stage regulators on the house?  Sorry for the poorly drawn picture, but hopefully it illustrates the point.  If this is possible to do, what considerations do I need to take into account?  And how would doing this split change the amount of pressure in each line?
My current line going into the house is 5/8" copper tubing.


texts: How do I mount a power strip to the smooth metal support structure of a banquet table?

texts:
I bought a heavy-duty power strip from Walmart which I would like to mount to the metal support structure of a banquet table.

This is the power strip:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/49557487

This is the banquet table:
https://www.staples.com/product_1321933

There is a smooth metal surface along the under edge of the table to which adds mechanical support. It is roughly the same height as the power strip is wide and is a perfect place to hide the strip to be used for connecting a number of electronics.

The problem I have is that I don't know how to go about securing the strip. I tried 3M Scotch 30lb mounting tape:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/203405976

This worked OK for a while but the weight of the strip itself caused it to tilt over time until it finally detached from the adhesive. The adhesive held just fine to the table but was weak at bonding with the plastic of the strip.

The back of the strip has what appear to be two mounting holes in the form of a cross (one on each end) which I believe is meant for mounting:

I have no problem punching a hole in the metal frame to mount this but I don't know what tool would be required to perform this task. The metal appears to be 1/4" steel and has a lip on the bottom which would prevent me from using some kind of punch which must clamp flush with a piece of sheet metal.

What is the proper way to go about mounting this strip so that it is secure and won't fall off again but will allow removal for later transportation. Note that removal isn't as important but the strip does have a fuse and it would be useful to be able to easily swap it out if it does break at some point in the future.


texts:
I have an old house with no insulation. The walls are 2x4 with plaster and lath. The outside is aluminum siding, in good shape. I would like to blow cellulose insulation inside the wall cavities from the inside, then hang paneling over the plaster.

Do I really need to worry about moisture if I'm actually keeping the warm air from inside reaching the cold air that would come into the cavity once filled?

All this talk about moisture problems is confusing me. And one step further would be to wrap the room with foil radiant insulation then install furring strips then hang paneling or drywall. What are your thoughts on this aside from loosing inside space?


texts: Replace GFCI outlet or the brand new washing machine?

texts:
I just bought a brand new washing machine and its tripping the (15 amp) GFCI circuit breaker. The main breaker in the fuse panel is 20 amps and is not tripping. The GFCI trips every time the washer turns on the water pump to fill the machine with water.
The washer works fine when I plug it into another regular circuit (without GFCI protection).
The delivery guy was adamant that this is due to a defective outlet. I suspect a defective washing machine.
Should I replace the GFCI outlet or the washing machine?


texts: How to use an MR16 bulb in a 5"/6" can housing

texts:
I want to hang a nice metallic photograph print over my fireplace. I currently have a 5" recessed can with a fish eye for a PAR30 bulb, but I don't like the evenness of color or the width of the spot from the PAR30. So I'd like to try to convert the can to use a MR16 bulb.

Is there a trim kit that allows you to install a MR16 bulb in a conventional 5" or 6" can, without having to replace the housing? I've looked at the major online retailers as well as some manufacturer's websites (i.e. Halo) but have come up empty. The ones I have been able to find all require a low voltage housing.


texts: Safe location rules for bathroom sink receptacle and light switch

texts:
Bathroom sink with mirror & vanity light. Presently, the vanity light switch and single receptacle are separate from each other and in awkward locations. I intend to put them together in a single box.

1) What are the safe-location rules for placing a receptacle at a bathroom sink? Examples: minimum height from counter or minimum distance from faucet.

2) Can I safely add a 2nd receptacle to the mix, resulting in a switch + receptacle + receptacle in a 3 gang box? I assume that I could use a single GFCI receptacle and chain a normal receptacle and switch to the load side of the GFCI receptacle to protect the whole chain.

(My thinking is that providing 2 x 2 = 4 places for low-power appliances like shaver & toothbrush chargers to be plugged and stay plugged is safer than needing to regularly swap cords when a hair dryer or similar is used.)


texts: Husqvarna 235 chainsaw. Started easily, but would die before could use. Squirted one second blast of carburetor cleaner into spark plug hole. Now not start. There is spark. New plug, air and gas filters.


texts: What kind of furniture cover(s) do I need for my sectional?

texts:
I have a very uniquely shaped sectional, and I need to get furniture covers for it so that my cats will not scratch it up. Picture below.
What kind of furniture covers do I need for this?  We have tried a sofa and loveseat combination, but it leaves a bare spot on the single seat 'lounge' portion, and a chaise-style sectional specific cover set also did not work.


texts: Are all these duct taping on my furnace normal?

texts: I just bought the house, and I saw these duct tapes on my furnace in the basement (I guess it's not exactly a furnace, but also an air ventilation system since it's turning on in summer). Now what are all these duct taping? is this normal, also should I retape them since they have mostly came loose, and cold air is blowing out of the holes.


texts: Install drywall on narrow corner adjacent to closet door frame

texts:
I'm looking to finish the inside wall of my closet by putting up drywall. Most of the closet is finished, but the backside of the wall with the sliding door on it isn't.

There's a vertical wood stud that sticks out ½ inch past the door frame, and I'm not sure I can reasonably fit drywall onto that narrow surface.

Photo from the inside, looking up and towards the room (the phone cord is unimportant and will be removed):

I sketched the area for my own reference:

How can I finish this? I thought I might install drywall onto the larger surface, then wrap corner bead around the new drywall and directly onto the wood stud. Is this reasonable? Is there a better option?


texts:
I had a painter come over to paint the garage drywall (it was reversed for some reason).

https://imgur.com/V9Q5jcW
https://imgur.com/Uhajs6q

He used Sheetrock Dust Control to cover the nails and seal the drywall gaps. Later used 3 coats of Glidden Premium Exterior Paint for the walls and ceiling.

https://imgur.com/qPcenMj
https://imgur.com/2rBk6uM

The result looks pretty uneven, annoyed that I spent the money on a professional and still didn't get an even looking wall paint

How can I get an even paint if I have to paint over this myself


texts: What happens if you sweat pipe copper pipe without flux?

texts:
I may have forgotten to use soldering flux paste when I replaced a water valve on 1/2" copper tubing. It was in a tight place and sweating pipe is not something I do often.  Some of the joints I attached on the ground but others had to be soldered in place, near the ceiling.

In any case, after I put the new tubing and valve in place and soldered it, I looked up and could not recall putting flux on one of the joints.

If I soldered the joint without flux and it does not leak should I leave it alone or redo it?


texts: How can I be sure there's a connection between the telephone line and the power line? (Answer: they should not be connected.)

texts:
I noticed there I can feel the electricity when I touch one of my telephone wires. I thought that we couldn't feel the 48 V that is usual for this kind of wire.

Maybe one power line 127 V is submerged with this wire and that's why I can feel it.

I have a multimeter. To verify it should I measure the voltage in relation to the nearest ground or what?

Here are my results

ACPhone 1Phone 20
DCPhone 1Phone 245

ACPhone 1GND0.4
DCPhone 1GND0.1
ACPhone 1Neutral0
DCPhone 1Neutral47.8
ACPhone 1Phase77
DCPhone 1Phase47.8

ACPhone 2GND0
DCPhone 2GND0
ACPhone 2Neutral17.3
DCPhone 2Neutral2.8
ACPhone 2Phase129
DCPhone 2Phase2.8


texts: I am installing a outside light but have 3 wires coming to the light, red, black and white and only black white and green from the new light, How do I hook this up


texts:
I can’t seem to get this right for the life of me. I’ve applied primer, 2 coats of paint and it looks terrible! Look at the roller lines, the texture etc
I’ve used a good quality ceiling paint, 10mm rollers , I don’t apply too much pressure etc
I used a flat paint. I paint in straight lines following the longest wall for the first coat and then paint across for the second coat.
Can this be fixed ?


texts: Light with 2 4-way switches and 1 3-way switch

texts: I'm a home DIYer and have some familiarity with electrical work. I recently bought a home and am replacing the switches. In the upstairs hallway, there are 3 switches that control one light. After researching online, I learned that this should be handled with two 3-way switches and one 4-way switch. However, it looks like my setup has one 3-way switch and two 4-way switches (see pictures). The house was built in 1985 and am fairly confident there is not a fourth switch. Can anyone explain why this was setup this way or what I have wrong?


texts: Light fixture powering other lights / garage door opener?

texts:
This is very confusing to me.
The situation is like this... there's one light switch in the garage. This switch turns the light inside the garage on and also the lights on the outside of the garage. I want these to be separated so I can leave my outside garage lights on and the inside one off. I purchased a switch with two toggles that fit in the same single gang. It bridges the power side with a metal tab you can break off.
I was kind of thinking all the wires were ran back to the switch in the wall because there were so many wires. Is this possible to do?
Took all the wires apart to inspect. 3 Whites, 3 Blacks, a Red and a jumper black wire that goes from the switch to the other 3 Black wires.

This is what it looks like when wired and working.

Now I played around with possible wiring scenarios trying to figure out which wire went to which lamp. Then I crawled in the attack and looked where the outside lamps wires ran.

I found this. This is the back of the light bulb that is in the garage. 2 of the white wires are from the lamps outside, 1 goes to the garage door opener, and the black one goes back to where the wall with the switch is.

I guess first thing, has anyone seen this before or know what this is? Did someone sort of jerry rig this whole thing? Is it still possible to set up 2 switches and have the other two lights separated from the inside bulb? And if so, does anyone know how this could be done?
I'm guessing I can combine the two outside light wires together and run a separate wire down to the switch and fish it through the wall. Leaving the wiring how it is, and connect to one switch and the new wires to the other? Or is this wrong?
Thanks in advance for you help.


texts: Should a post in a circular concrete form go through the bottom?

texts:
I am replacing a fence post that was in a circular 2-ft form.  The old one had rotted where the concrete and post meet at the top - the next one will have the concrete above water level!
But - I noticed that the old post was sticking out of the concrete on the bottom.  I this a bad thing in that water can seep up into the post from below?  Or is it a good thing in that water that does seep through the top can leak out the bottom?


texts: The Moen faucets work to adjust water flow and do not leak. I have taken the handle and plastic spline off. After meeting some resistance, the stops spin. How do I tighten the stops on a Moen 2 handle faucet?


texts: Why does my water pressure / flow rate drop sporadically?

texts:
This is a recent problem that I've noticed since Hurricane Harvey came through a couple months ago. No flooding in the house, but there was 1-2' of water on the street, which did cover the water meter and shutoff (and a couple in-ground irrigation heads) for ~2 days. I'm on city water (i.e., no well, which makes this similar question not a duplicate)

Some time after a water fixture is turned on, the pressure and flow rate will drop for a second or two and then return to normal. It will do this repeatedly, at different intervals. Nothing regular that I can tell. It's like when you have a faucet on, and then turn on the outside hose or sprinkler - that kind of a drop. But it returns quickly, only to do it again some amount of time later.

Sometimes, I'll be able to use the fixture without it experiencing this drop in pressure / flow at all, or I'll only experience one or two drops. Other times, it happens every 30-60 seconds. It happens on all sinks, the master shower, and upstairs tub. Don't know about dishwasher and washing machine. I've experienced it on the outside hose bibs as well.

What could be causing this and how can I fix it?


texts:
My trane xr90 furnace keeps resetting just while it
is in its "heat up phase" I'm a laymen but a description of what is happening is like this...
The furnace gets a call for heat, it makes a sound and lights up near the burners, when the burners start to heat up it makes a "whisk" sound an restarts the process. This continually happens soon after the burners begin to heat up and before the fan begins to blow the warm air into the ducts. The filter is new, the red light is blinking fast and steady (when it is calling for heat). Sometimes if I switch off the breaker and reset it will work once or twice and then start failing again. Any ideas?


texts: What are these things on my window frames?

texts:
My flat has a pair of these attached to every window frame, opposite each other. They have no visible branding on them.

Does anyone have any idea what they are for?


texts:
I have a metal part of a bandsaw that had a machine screw head break off. I drilled a hole and used an extraction bit and it also broke off. Due to poorly executed attempts to drill again (so I can tap it), the surface is now irregular enough that the bit (and chuck) of my drill press wobbles out of place. I thought I might melt the surface to level it out, but the Propane torch I bought doesn't seem to get hot enough (after 3 minutes of leaving the flame on the metal). I contacted a couple machine shops and they aren't interested in this tiny job. Any suggestions on how I can get a centered hole drilled in this thing? Also, should I be trying to drill a larger hole than was there, since the integrity of a same size hole would be affected by the previous hole?

Edit: You can see the part [here][1]. It is 2 5/8" long. The one I have is steel; the potential replacement is not exactly the same shape and appears to be soft metal. It would be over $50. (I've spent about $40 so far trying to fix it.) The problem area is the rightmost screw hole in the photo, which is currently filled with metal from the top to about 80% of the depth of the original hole. There is no access to it from the other side. (The bit would have to cut through metal on the far side of the bit and air on the near.)


texts:
I have a 35KW Wacker diesel generator. It has 3 x 240V 3 prong - 10, 20 and 30 amp service. it also has a 4 wire 3 prong 125/250 locking (center ground) outlets of 50 amp.

My question is how do I connect that to my 20K transfer switch (240V 4 prong) inlet. At 50 amps, the most I can get out of 240V is 12KW, right? I'm thinking to rewire the generator with 100 amp service - is that feasible.  I need the whole 20KW to drive our electrical needs.  Peak is actually a bit more than that...


texts: Is this water damage, dry rot, or just old age?

texts:
I purchased a 60 year old house last year and a few months ago I noticed an odd wavy pattern in the paint just above the floor trim.  The wood floor was also noticeably darker in that area, so I decided to pull back the quarter round and see what was going on.

Click for larger view

This wall is on the outside corner of the house.  I have not noticed any dampness/water in the plaster wall or on the floor up to this point.  The wood that came off when I pulled back the quarter round is dry, very light and crumbles when I break it apart.

I'm currently planning a bathroom reno, and I'm wondering if this is something that needs to take priority.


texts:
I have a number of projects I want to get done all on the exterior of my home:

Replacing an old 1970s metal awning with a retractable solar shade
Adding window trim over stucco
Replacing a fence gate
Repainting the whole exterior
Power washing bricks

I think it would require at least a painting company, a window company, and a fencing company.

Should a novice homeowner contact each of those companies individually to get quotes and coordinate the work -- or is it more appropriate to find a general contractor to do that?


texts: How to skim coat a wall that receive a heavy light at night?

texts:
I’m polish expat based in Thailand.
I’m at the finish stage of building a 150 m2 small house. Basically all work left to complete the unit is just painting job which is turning out to be a nightmare because of uneven plaster with very bumpy skim coat all over interior and exterior walls.

Here is few important points to illustrate the problem:

Poorly plastered walls. 30-100 cm large and 2-6 mm deep Indentations
as well as smaller bumps all over the surface. I think this is not
much visible and would not be a problem but I’m guessing that it
raises a problem for the skim coat to be applied as the substrate is
too much uneven.
Exterior surfaces looks pretty much acceptable in a daylight but
terrible at night when flushed with lights. There is a sweep at the
top of the walls wrapping around whole house. The sweep has several
LED down lights which highlight the bumpy skim coat very much.
The skim coat product is Australian Parex Lanko 103 considered in
Thailand to be one of best quality product available.
Reference: www.parexgroup.com.my/images/product/Lanko%20103.pdf

Skim coat is painted with a premium quality Elastomeric paint (eggshell).
2 different tradesman failed to apply the skim coat. After that I
decided to learn and complete the job on my own. I have spent weeks
practicing, watched and tried many tutorials and advised
techniques. I can’t get satisfactory results when wall get lights at night.

The short story is that all looks pretty good in a day but turns into terrible mess when highlighted at night.

I’m pretty disappointed at this point but don’t want to give up. After so much effort giving up would just break me up completely.

Please advise or guide me through. Feel free to ask for additional info or images.

UPDATE: After posting this I have got an important addition and more direct question that may lead to a solution.

I have realized that one thing making the job difficult is the fact that I can't tell if the surface is smooth enough unless I paint it over with the final coat.

I have even tried applying final coat of mud followed by sanding it at night with lights on but even than I can't really say if all is good enough.

The skim coat is very flat white and also covered with dust. Whats more I see gray plaster in small points where the mud layer is very thin which makes an illusion of uneven surface...

All bad stuff is just showing up after I paint it over with a final coat of paint.
Than, at this stage is to late to make any fixes as there is a need to sand out the paint along with the excess of mud in places where I see the bumps. The paint is to elastic, rips a part and just makes all more difficult.

So, my question: Is there perhaps some type of paint that I could use as a tester? I imagine it would have to be easy to sand and have some gloss to cast shadow of all bad places to be fixed.


texts: Is it OK to drink water from newly-cemented PVC pipes?

texts:
It has been my habit to use Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue to mend PVC pipe.

I am happy with the performance and the repairs turn out very well.

I also note, with great interest, that it is rated for potable water pipes (NSF pw-G-dwv-sw).

Recently, I constructed a long water conduit with schedule 40 potable water PVC pipe (NSF-61).  The pipe sat, unused, for a month or so, and we used an air compressor to test it (ONLY TO 60 PSI, CALM DOWN ...) and when we let out all the air, it smelled like an open can of PVC solvent.  Very, very strong smell.

OK, no big deal.

So I filled the pipes with water and let it sit for a few days.  Then we drained all of that water out.  Then we filled them with water a second time and let it sit for a few days.

When we ran the spigots to drain this second flush of water, the water had a strong and distinct smell of PVC solvent.  Not terrible, but strong enough to notice.

So my question is this:

On a regular basis plumbers and pump and well guys and other contractors will fix potable water systems with PVC solvent and put those pipes into almost immediate use for drinking water.

Why is this OK ?  If I can dry it out fully and then double flush it (sitting for days each time) and still smell the solvent, that means there is solvent in the water and that means people are drinking it.

Why is this OK ?  Why should I ignore and/or not care about this ?

Thanks.


texts: Gap (2") between PVC conduit and exposed foundation (exterior)

texts:
I can't figure out how to get a good photo of this setup, so I'll try to describe as best I can.

I'm moving/replacing the existing overhead electric cable that runs between the main house and the garage subpanel. Plan is to bury it, using sched 40 PVC (1 1/2" diameter, 18" below grade) as a conduit.

There will be an LB fitting where the line exits the house (about 30" above grade) through the stucco siding and turns 90 degrees toward the ground. The transition between stucco siding and exposed foundation happens about 20" above grade, with about a 2" horizontal offset between the stucco and the foundation. That is, if I run the PVC pipe straight up/down, then there will be a 2" gap between the PVC pipe and the foundation, up to a height of about 20" above ground level, and then will be flush with (edit: tight to, not flush with) the stucco until it hits the LB fitting and turns into the house.

My question is, is there anything wrong with having that 2" gap?

I could try to bend the PVC to eliminate the gap, but if I don't need to, I'd rather not. It's not something I've ever done before, and I expect that it's not a simple thing to do with 1 1/2" PVC.

I found another thread on this site that mentions using a "standoff", which I suppose might be necessary depending on the strapping requirements for exterior PVC, which I haven't quite figured out yet. (I think I need one strap within 3 ft of the LB fitting.)


texts: Is there a piece of equipment that protects against vibration?

texts:
I'm doing a lot of work with a Sawzall reciprocating saw and the vibrations are very uncomfortable. After about 30 seconds, I have to stop because my arms are itchy from vibrating too much.

In addition to being uncomfortable, I'm also concerned that it may do long term damage.

Is there any type of PPE (personal protection equipment) that protects against vibrations or makes it more comfortable to work with tools that vibrate a lot?


texts: Is it important to finish rafter tails, (sub)fascia, and barge rafters?

texts: My roofing will have a drip edge that directs rainwater away from the subfasica and barge rafters. Is it still important to finish (paint) them to protect them?


texts: How much usable air in an air compressor?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out how long a small 3 Gallon compressor tank will last in between the compressor kicking on and off. I know the tank volume, and cut-in/cut-out PSI, and my approximate SCF usage per minute. So can I just calculate the SCF of the tank at the cut-in and cut-out pressure, and then subtract them to get "usable SCF"?

The cut-in/cut-out pressure are the tank pressure before the regulator, which will step the pressure down 40-100 PSI. But converting to SCF should accommodate for this, right?

I'm using SCF = ACF * (tank pressure + 14.7) / 14.7 (in cubic feet and PSI units), where ACF is the actual tank volume.

Then the "usable air" = SCF_cutout - SCF_cutin?

EDIT: Concrete example:
Tank: 3 Gallons = 0.4 cubic feet (ACF)
Compressor Cut-out: 150 PSI
Compressor Cut-in: 120 PSI

Tank SCF @ 150 PSI: 4.5 cubic feet
Tank SCF @ 120 PSI: 3.7 cubic feet
"Usable SCF" = 4.5 - 3.7 = 0.8 cubic feet      <-- is this correct?

RE: regulator pressure, it will be between 20-80 PSI - but the conversion to SCF should account for that, no?

Long story short, if I'm using 2.0 SCF/minute constantly, with only 0.8 SCF available in the tank between compressor cycles, then the compressor will always be on, which is bad, right?

[all this is ignoring temperature for simplicity, which I acknowledge is unrealistic]


texts: Horizontal fire blocking when using rigid foam in basement?

texts: There are lots and lots of how-to's out there on how to put rigid foam against a concrete basement wall before putting up 2 X 4 framing. Seal the joints, etc...doesn't seem to complicated. On to framing...it also seems easy (and stupid not to) to get the required fire blocking at the top...below your joists...in the vertical direction. What I'm really scratching my head over, and I haven't see ONE SINGLE EXAMPLE of how to do this correctly in all of the so-called "Internet How-to's"...is how do you achieve horizontal fire blocking every 10 feet when you've got rigid foam between the concrete and the framing? Picture this...concrete walls covered with rigid foam floor to top of concrete wall. Now throw up your framing. Let's say I'm using 1" foam (southern climate zone, above grade). As I interpret the rule, you need a framing member DIRECTLY against the concrete...so do I rip a 2 X 6 to 4.5"...carve out 1.5" wide of foam at that spot? Doesn't make sense...not supposed to put lumber against concrete, and I'm pretty sure you can't have PT every 10 ft in an interior space. Yes, I did check with the AHJ, and the answer was "Yes, you need fire blocking and no, rigid foam or fire-retardant great stuff does not qualify" which makes sense...that stuff melts if your hot breath gets on it. Would would help me get my head around this would be a example photo..which I've spent hours searching for.


texts: How to add corner trim to a shed without exterior access?

texts:
I'd like to build a 10x10 studio shed in the back corner of my lot.  I won't have access to two of the walls as they will be inches from structures on the neighbor's lot.  I can add exterior siding to the wall, before I raise it - but what can I do about the corner where these two walls join?
My only guess right now is to buy pvc corner trim, add construction adhesive, and then install the corner trim by moving it vertically down from the roof.
The end goal is to have everything watertight.  If there is a different way to do this without corner trim, please advise.


texts: Wiring meter to plug on neutral circuit breaker

texts:
I am adding a new service to my pole barn. Plan to have 200 amp service. Bought a square d plug on neutral breaker box. Using 4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 service entrance cable (aluminum).

I know where to place the two hots and the neutral.

Currently I have the 2/0 portion to the ground next to the neutral in the breaker box. Is this correct?

Where do I put the 2/0 unsheathed portion of the cable for the meter? Is that the ground from the breaker box to meter box? Do I hook it to the neutral in the meter or clamp it to the ground.


texts: Will new bottom plates in basement allow radon penetration?

texts: I am getting ready to finish my basement.  I can use Tapcons or a Ramset to attach the bottom plates of the walls to the concrete slab with drain tile underneath.  Will these holes from the screws or nails allow radon in?


texts: Two electrical questions: Tripping GFCI, and unlocatable GFCI

texts:
Question 1: We had a pool installed.  It has been out of service.  I am trying to get it back up and running.  It was installed after the house was built.  There are separate breakers added by the pool installer for the pool equipment.  The pool control panel has a GFCI outlet.  I need to drain the pool.  I have a pump I used a few years back.  I plugged an extension cord into the GFCI outlet, and the pump into the extension cord.  It's an older extension cord.  Initially, there was no power.  I reset the breakers, and tested the GFCI outlet.  Nada.  I have a GFCI tester and a non-contact tester I picked up today.  Both show the outlet as dead.  I was replacing another GFCI outlet.  I picked up a 20a GFCI outlet for the freezer - it was also tripping.  They are on separate circuits.  But I was finally able to reset the GFCI for freezer and it seems ok.  It was a 20A circuit.  So, I used the replacement outlet for that, for the pool panel.  Not sure if 20A is right, just realized - will check tomorrow.  Checked the wiring, non contact, etc, and replacing went well, it's up and running.  But, the submersible pump to drain the pool keeps tripping the gfci.  Bad pump?  Bad extension cord?  (Too short to try without, but I can swap cords), or something else?

2nd question: I had the pump plugged into an outdoor outlet that was gfi protected.  It tripped that GFCI also.  I can't find the outlet to reset it.  I've reset the breakers in the box, no luck.

I have 2 outdoor patio outlets.  Pump was here.  Neither work.
I have 4 I can locate in the garage: the one for the water softener has power.  The one for the garage door opener has power.  A 3rd was... higher amp?  separate circuit when house was built.  Has power.  The 4th doesn't.
I have one by front door.  Small fountain/pump was plugged in.  Doesn't work.

I can't for the life of my find the GFCI to reset that.  Again -- I've reset all the breakers in the house - nada.  So it's the GFCI (I presume).  I reset the 2 kitchen ones, the 2 bathroom ones (master/guest) -- all were fine and didn't resolve issue.

I checked just inside the house, by door to garage.  Not GFCI.

There's enough stuff in garage, perhaps one is lurking, but I tried peeking behind shelving and couldn't find it.  The one wall hard to see/with shelving, is the one that, on the other side, is the pump/fountain/front door.

The garage is on the NW corner of the house.  The house faces W.  The breaker box is on the SxSW side of the house.

So, the front door is closest to the breaker box.  The back patio is probably next, where the 2 outlets are.  The garage is definitely furthest.

There are 3 attic entry ways.  I haven't checked them all.  one in garage, one in master bedroom closet, one in laundry room.

Anyway: any thoughts/feedback on either question appreciated.

Thanks
Neal


texts:
I have a fairly typical "split" air conditioning unit ( LG 1 Ton Inverter Model JS-Q12ATXD, White) in my room.

The remote has a button which shows me the "Room Temp."

What I'm wondering is where it senses this at? Is there a thermocouple in the remote? Or in the indoor unit?

Any idea?


texts:
Please Heeelp!!!
I just purchased a bathroom fan "Aero Still 100T" wich comes with a timer. This fan comes with 3 wires, white, red and black

however I realized that the connection wires for Fans in my bathroom only has 2 wires: black and white
I tried connecting each wire to its matching color but the Fan does not do anything.
As aditional informtion the Fan goes connected to the light's switch (yes, the bathroom's light does work)

MANY MANY THANKS


texts: Running appliances during a Power Outage

texts:
My parents are elderly and live in an older house, late 50's. Their house is a ranch style about 1,250 square feet with a full basement.

They have a sump pump in their house and when it storms and power is lost they get water in their basement. When we were all younger we use to haul buckets of water up their basement stairs and dump outside. Carrying water up the stairs is no longer an option.

I know there is a sump pump that can be installed with a battery backup but my dad is wanting to power beyond the sump pump as last time when power was lost it was out for a few days. Therefore, he is wanting to generate power to run freezer, refrigerator, sump pump and a few lights. He is considering buying a gas generator and plugging it into an electric outlet in his house. I know nothing about electricity and concerned about their safety.

Can this be done?
Is this safe?
What must we know/do to help ensure this is safely handled.

How do we calculate how big of generator is necessary to operate these items AND we need to consider start up draw for these items because I understand that is higher than just normal running. Any suggestions on size of generator?

If this is possible, in the winter if power is lost due to an ice storm, could the furnace be connected to the generator for heat?

Thanks in advance for your time and information.


texts: Appropriate conduit for several data cables underground over 300' run

texts:
I have done some searching around but have not found anything definitive, and/or my background is weak in this area and I may be understanding poorly.

I will have 2-4 PoE cables that will be run underground a distance of up to 300ft. There will be no sources of interference near the cables. There will most likely be 4 cables, with the possibility of others in the future.

My guess was that I would want a 2" conduit to run these through. I have seen it suggested that PVC be used for this, which I assume refers to some flexible PVC conduit, which I have not found in 2" x 300ft variety, if I remember correctly, or it is too expensive.

I have also seen Carlon's Carflex Liquidtight conduit (https://carlonsales.com/carflexliquidtightnmconduitparts.php), but these appear to be expensive for my basic needs and the 2" conduit
Edit Meant to say that the 2" conduit only goes up to 100'

Currently, it appears that the cheapest solution would be to run each cable in its own 3/4"-1" PEX tubing, but I would rather leave room for further cable(s) in the future, and a separate conduit for each cable is awkward. I understand that direct burial with appropriately shielded cable is also an option but I would rather allow, again, for addition of cables, but also cable replacement, without unearthing the trench.

I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for materials or specific products.

edit devices are going to be PoE cameras


texts: How can I fix sprinklers inside concrete?

texts:
I have two sprinklers that some genius installed into concrete:

And second one:

One of them is starting to give out.  My initial thought is to:

Hire somebody to run new sprinkler lines.  Cut these off and leave them here dead.
Smash the stone to get to the sprinkler.  I tried cleaning out the area around the stone and the concrete goes real deep.  It's definitely stuck to the plastic base.

What do you suggest?


texts: How to remove ice maker from Miele / Liebherr freezer?

texts:
I have a Miele KFN 8701 SE freezer (also known as a Liebherr freezer) which has an ice-maker which has failed.

A plastic part has come free, and also what looks like a temperature sensor:

This is the front view. It seems to sit on a holding bracket from above, and there appear to be lugs that would let it drop down if I could move it forwards a centimetre or so. However it doesn't seem to want to move.

There is a single screw that I can see, which I don't seem to be able to undo (there isn't much room for a screwdriver). However I'm not sure whether this is holding the thing in place or not. It looks to be a fair way from the mounting brackets.

If I could remove it, I might be able to repair it, or just leave it out and make ice cubes the old-fashioned way.

Does anyone know how to remove this thing?


texts: Does it matter if the power in goes into fixture before switch?

texts:
I have a basic understanding of electrical and have been trying to learn as much as I can over the past few weeks.

I bought a house with a basement that a few light bulbs on pull down switches with the power going into the first light closest to the breaker.

At the very end of the line with the last light I was planning on replacing that light fixture with an outlet box and adding a switch to control the outlet box after looking a lot of things up I notice that standard practice is having the power in go into a switch first then into any fixtures, I also saw that you can still wire everything if it goes fixture then switch but that seemed rare.

So what I was wondering, is it better to rerun the wire to my switch first or is going into a fixture first then a switch perfectly fine and not just a hack that works?


texts: My kitchen cabinets were mounted with drywall screws. How can I better secure it to the wall?

texts:
The kitchen cabinets in our apartment were hung with drywall screws which has been flagged to us as a safety concern because they might not bear the load when the cabinets are fully loaded with dishes:

My understanding is these screws can be removed and replaced one at a time with hardware to better support the load. Is that right?
If so, what hardware would you recommend I use for this? Some sort of anchor I'm guessing?


texts: Need help identifying "pre-stripped" Phillips screw

texts:
I am trying to remove some screws with some very annoying heads.  The screws look like a regular Phillips head but have the center rounded out.  This makes a normal Phillps head screwdriver slip as if the screw was already stripped.
I am looking for the correct bit to remove this, as I would like to reuse the screws later.  That failing, has anyone had success removing screws with similar "pre-stripped" heads?
I have included an additional photo of another screw "as delivered." This close up shows the center of the head is square, with facets inside the square part of the head. For added context, every screw on the piece of furniture in question has the same head. If it is the result of stripping, the manufacturer was very thorough.


texts: Mount over-the-range microwave without top cabinet

texts:
I am looking to mount an over-the-range microwave above my stove, but there is no cabinet on top. Here's a picture:
We originally planned to mount a shelf to the wall above the stove and use the shelf instead of a top cabinet for mounting the microwave. We bought a piece of 3/4" plywood and cut it to size. However, when we went to buy brackets, the guy in Lowe's said that he didn't think it  would be strong enough.

My question is, would this work? Can we mount an over-the-range microwave using a 36"x12" piece of 3/4" plywood as the 'top cabinet'? Will it hold? What kind of brackets do we need for the shelf? The microwave is 65 pounds. Installation instructions are here.

There is another question on this site about this, but it is not as detailed and there doesn't seem to be a definite answer there.


texts: Should I install an exhaust fan in a new garage?

texts:
I'm having a new garage built in my home and I'm wondering if it's a good idea to have some sort of ventilation/exhaust/fan system installed while they're at it? I'm thinking of doing some spray painting in there so I figured having a vent in there would be a good idea.  I mean if I had to install one in an existing garage, I probably wouldn't bother but since it's being built from the ground up, I figure it shouldn't take much effort to install it?

The builder said it won't do much of anything/pointless and that I shouldn't bother.  Any opinions on what I should do?


texts: I'm replacing my outlets and I have too many hot/neutral wires, what do I do?

texts:
I'm going through my new home and replacing my outlets. This was mostly fine, as the first outlet was very easy to replace. But, I ran into outlets that have multiple hot/neutral wires.

For the most part, I just copied how the old outlets were setup by plugging in the wires into the holes in the back and the "extra" ones screwing onto the side screws, and this worked fine (I hope). The problem I ran into is I wanted to replace some of my outlets with the newer USB/Outlet combinations, which only have one set of screws (and one pinhole in the back). Basically, I don't know what to do here; I don't think it's smart to put multiple hot/neutral on the same screw.

A few questions:

Why on earth are there multiple hot/neutral wires for one outlet?
What do I do for the USB outlet which does not seem to have enough screws to handle 3 hot/3 neutral/1 ground?
Can I do anything to deal with all these extra wires? They make it harder to screw in the outlet because it is so crammed in there.


texts: Exposed metal rod in the wall. What is it? What should I do?

texts:
I tried removing some loose plaster and exposed a thin steel rod running up the wall. It seems to have had a coving which has rusted (maybe burnt?) off.

My guess is that it is the earth for the electrics but that is completely a guess. A friend suggested it could be the old wiring but doesn’t look like wire...

Any idea what it is and what I should do? Is it safe?

Cheers


texts: Can I reroute a return air duct if it adds length and several bends?

texts:
I'm doing some remodeling in my house and would like to finish the basement ceiling with sheetrock replacing the old drop ceiling.  The only problem is the ducts both run on one side of the room as illustrated in the picture.  I'd like to reroute the return duct around the opposite side of the room so I can build a nice even soffit throughout the room.

Is it ok to reroute the return duct in such a way?  Will adding additional length and two extra 90 degree bends to the duct cause any airflow problems or stress on the blower? What about reduced efficiency?


texts: Water pressure inside house drops to zero when sprinklers are on

texts: When any one zone of the sprinkler system turns on, the water pressure inside the house drops to zero (no water coming out of the faucet) for a 3-7 seconds before returning to normal. After that drop, both the sprinklers and inside faucets/showers work fine until the next zone turns on, then the water pressure inside the home drops again. PSI measured at the main valve is 55 (after the pressure regulator). I have low flow sprinkler heads installed, and fairly small zones. Any ideas on what could be the issue?


texts: How can I buff my hardwood floors without a machine?

texts:
My portable AC leaked some water and left behind some white stains on my hardwood floor. Over a few hours, they slowly began to disappear away, but the floor could use some touching up.

I read that I should use #000 steel wool with wax, but online I also found this buffing trigger spray solution.

I don't have any kind of machine for buffing and honestly, I don't really know the difference between waxing and buffing, I know waxing goes after buffing. I have also read that mineral spirits could help too, but I'm not sure what they actually do to the floor.

My question is, should I use the steel wool with wax, and if so what wax?  Or should I use this buffing spray, but how can I buff manually, since I don't have a machine?


texts: How to fix the Sputtering faucets in bathroom with air locked in pipes

texts: The hot water faucet is Sputtering heavily. I tried opening up all faucets in the house and let the water run for more than 10 minutes, but the Sputtering continues. This is in the upper level bathroom and only the hot water faucet is Sputtering.


texts:
I'm looking to install a stair light above my stairs. I plan on using a proper box, stress clamp, and all that. The wiring will have to come from my basement, through the wall. The question I have is the best way to wire this up to power.

Ideally I would run the cable through the wall, between the studs, to the nearest wall outlet and hook it up there. The issue is this is not very close and I'd have to go through several studs; plus I am not very comfortable fishing wires through walls. It would be 100x easier to use something like an open-ended extension cord: the open end gets wired to the light, and then I run the extension cord to the outlet and simply plug it in.

What are possible pitfalls with this? I plan on securing the cord to the wall, and using the correct stress relief in the box. I'd like to get the smallest extension cord possible, as I'm going to be pulling 3 watts at most.

Related question: can I make this open-ended cord myself, or this that a bad idea? I'm confident it would work just fine, but warranty, building codes, and all that.

Thanks!


texts: Can I run a sink drain horizontally through an adjacent cabinet?

texts:
I am in the process of finishing my basement, and am at the stage where I need to plumb the wet bar sink.  When the house was built, the contractor just plumbed the area for the future wet bar, and we never really discussed where we wanted things.  Once we put the cabinets in, and had the countertop installed, we decided to have the sink adjacent to where the source lines and drain were plumbed.  So now it looks like this:

But, now I'm not sure if it's fine to run the drain horizontally from where the sink is to where the drain is plumbed.  Ideally, I'd like to run it around the back perimeter of the cabinets (resulting in 3 90 degree angles) to maximize cabinet usage, but If I had to run it in a most direct route from the sink to the drain, I could live with that.  Either way I was planning on having the horizontal pipe drop 1/4" every foot.  I was also thinking of using 2 45 degree elbows in place of a 90s to help reduce friction. I believe the drain is 2" if that matters.

Here's a quick mock-up of what i'm talking about, if it's not already apparent.


texts: Can I install 2 30 amp twist lock receptacles in a 2 gang box on 1 circuit?

texts:
I have 10 AWG wire run to a 2 gang box (10-2 wire). It is 1 circuit protected by a double pole 30 amp breaker. Since it is 2-gang, can I use 2 30 amp twist lock receptacles (specifically the Hubbell HBL2620 30A 250V receptacle) in the box both connected to this same circuit?

The 2 machines I would be plugging in would never go above 30 amps, more like 23 amps combined if run at the same time.

Or should I just use 1 30A receptacle and not try for two? I wasn't even sure if these receptacles were designed to be linked together on the same circuit in the same box like normal household 120v outlets were.


texts: Extension cord reel - (Red) Reset button not staying down

texts:
I have the below cord reel, rated 1000watt rolled and 3500watt extended. It was working great until someone used it to power a welder. The person told me that it stopped working a few times and he would reset the button.

Now the red button stays up, it will not click and stay down. It clicks and goes up right away. Tried it even without being plugged in, the same. I unscrewed it and everything looks new inside, no sign of anything burned or whatever. The cord also looks good, but since it does it even unplugged it may be something else.

Any ideas? Thanks.


texts: What's the spanner called for these "four side notch" collars/bolts?

texts:
Notice this thing,

for a 30mm ...

What is the tool to tighten that properly?

It would seem to be best if it was a long tube-like thing you slid down from the top and tightened, but, maybe there's a thing that grabs it from the side?

(And, what's that type of bolt known as?!)


texts: How to improve wooden joists without removing them

texts:
First floor bathroom in a Victorian terrace house.

Floor joists run left to right with floorboards laid front to back. Joists are approx 10 foot long.

At some point in the past, the previous owner has cut a 4/5 foot section out of 4 of the 8 joists and replaced the timber using metal straps. As a result, the 4 pieced joists have sunken in the middle and are no longer level (unsurprisingly!).

The ideal option would be to replace the joists but I don't want to ruin the lovely period plaster ceiling attached to the underside of the joists.

My idea was to bolt new joists to the existing joists at the point were they immediately leave the brickwork. Would this work? My aim is to strengthen the joists and level the floor.


texts: Is this cloth jacket surrounding my electrical asbestos?

texts:
Checked to see what was going on behind the electrical socket, and discovered this fibrous wire insulation.

Also, I think who ever installed this 3 prong outlet in the first place did so illegally because the ground pin is not connected to anything, nor was the outlet labeled.

Edit: Another 2 images from a grounded socket:


texts: Do I need to repair this hole in the bottom flange of my I-joist?

texts: The electrician made a hole in the bottom flange of the I-joist. Do you think any repair is necessary? The hole is diagonal from bottom to upper part of the flange and is about 3/4 inch. I read the specs that said do not cut or drill thru but it happened and made me anxious!


texts: Need help going from single pole to double pole thermostat

texts: I am trying to replace single pole thermostats with double pole in two adjacent rooms. In each outlet there are three black, three red and three grounding wires. When I removed the single pole thermostats one was connected to black wires and the other to red. The load had one line connected to it and the line had two. All the demos I have found refer to only two black and two red wires...


texts: How do I remove paint from plastic window frames?

texts:
The paint is dark red and has dried. It only covers little areas on the plastic of the window frame.

How do I remove it without damaging the frame?

The frames are white.


texts: Can two antennas in proximity interfere with each other if they're not amplified?

texts:
I've read that one should be careful when mounting two (unidirectional) antennas on the same mast because their electrical fields may interfere with each other. Further advice stated there should be a vertical distance of at least 2-4 feet between them.

Question: if both antennas aren't amplified, will electrical interference still be an issue?


texts: Is tile primer suitable for plastering in bathroom?

texts: I've plasterboarded using moisture resistant board and plan to title round the bath using Tile Adhesive Primer first. I was wondering whether this primer is also suitable for plastering the opposite side of the bathroom rather than using PVA?


texts: How do you get spray paint drips off wooden desk

texts:
I decided to spray paint my desk matte black and glossy red.
I spray painted the top and it was fine but I sprayed the sides and I got drips.
I woke up the next morning to find the drips dry and I don't know how to get them off.

Please help its my main pc desk.


texts: Using shingles to flatten concrete subfloor

texts:
I am installing (floating) 3/8" engineered hardwood over a concrete subfloor with 1/8" underlayment.  After grinding high spots and filling in larger voids with self-leveler, I have occasional 1/8" or less dips that I have come across while laying the floor.  I have read here and elsewhere that roofing shingles can be used on a wood subfloor to raise small valleys.

Can shingles be used on a concrete subfloor too?
What are the concerns with using them on concrete if an adhesive like Liquid Nails is used to secure them in place?


texts:
I have about a 180' run from my house's main panel to my shed. I've installed a SquareD Homeline 70A sub-panel which has no main breaker, and has two breakers within.

I have installed a ground bar in the sub-panel and connected it to a ground rod at the shed. I have wired the circuit (one for now) with the neutral to the neutral bar and the ground to the ground bar (neutral and ground are not bonded).

I'm looking to clarify a few final things before I complete the installation. Sorry for all the words. I've highlighted the important parts.

I've seen conflicting information regarding whether or not I need to run a ground from the main panel to the sub-panel and bond it to the sub-panel's ground bar. Is a ground from the main panel required or is the ground rod at the site enough?
The run is 180' and the sub-panel is rated for 70A. I was going to run 4AWG 3 conductor (plus ground if required). I may go with 1AWG in case I want to upgrade to 100A service at the shed in the future. Using separate THHN wires, not UFB. Sound good / suggestions?
If I run 4AWG, and ground is required, what size ground would I use? What if I run 1AWG?
I am planning on running the wire in schedule 40 conduit. I think I should run 3/4" conduit if I go with 4AWG, or 1" conduit if I go with 1AWG -- probably might as well run 1" regardless. Sound reasonable?
Since the sub-panel has no main breaker (again, it has two beaker slots), do I need a disconnect before the sub-panel?
I will be using GFCI / AFCI breakers for both circuits, so do not need to use any GFCI outlets -- correct?

Anything I'm missing?

Update / TLDR

Run ground from main panel; use 2 ground rods at sub-panel, 10' apart.
For 100A @ 180', use aluminum XHHW-2 1/0 1/0 1/0 2.
Aluminum XHHW-2 2AWG for 100A @ 180'.
Use Schedule 80, 1 1/2" (33% fill) or size up to 2".
No disconnect is needed for a panel with only 2 breakers, however, it would be wise to upgrade the sub-panel to include a main breaker and more breaker slots.
GFCI breakers, no GFCI outlets.


texts: Isolator switch for electric generator to change from bonded to floating neutral

texts:
I have an electric Power generator and have a manual transfer switch to use a Power generator when the utility power is out. So the electric power generator is used as is with bonded neutral when used stand alone, but must be set to floating neutral when connected to the transfer switch, per the instructions from the manufacturer. I originally installed a switch to the screw on the case, but it is rated to 250V 20 Amps, but my generator has a max of 240V 50 Amps 9KW.
It is difficult to find a small enough switch for 240V 50 amps AC that can fit inside the generator housing. I was thinking if I can use an isolation switch like those used for car batteries that are rated at 500 amps, but at 12 DC Volts.
The bonding cable is the top right white cable screwed on the casing.

Battery isolation switch

The transfer switch has the neutrals connected along with ground to the home.


texts: Is it possible to override building-wide air-conditioning settings?

texts:
I live in an apartment building (high rise). The ac is off and they won't turn it on for another month!!

Meanwhile it is 90f inside and I can't sleep!! Is it possible to overide? We do have a unit in the appt with a thermostat and all but only hot air comes out.


texts: What to use to build an enclosure for projector screen case?

texts:
I need to create an enclosure for a projector screen case mounted on the ceiling. The size is 50 inches wide, 4 inches high, 4 inches deep.
Requirements:

The enclosure is just for visuals, just to hide the plastic case of the projector screen, so it creates a more "built-in" looking.
It will be finished just like the ceiling: white.
Must be lightweight. I can't use thick wood (probably your first thought!). I was thinking about some kind of very thin wood (I remember seeing them before, they are a little flexible but stay straight if no force is applied). Remember the idea here is just to hide the projector screen case, nothing else. So less is better!
It must be easily removable. It means this enclosure will not be attached to the ceiling, but will just use something to attach it to the projector screen case (that's why it needs to be lightweight). Don't worry about how to attach it, if it's lightweight even a velcro will make it. It is because the projector screen is battery powered so occasionally it is necessary to replace the battery.
Ideas about how to finish (specially the sides) so it looks like something built to the ceiling.

The whole idea is just to hide the plastic casing.
I'm looking mainly for ideas about what materials to use to create the enclosure, what to use to connect the sides, what to use to finish it.
Thank you!


texts:
I bought a device called Sense to monitor home electrical usage that is installed in your electrical panel.

The device needs to be connected to a 240v breaker like this:

The problem is that I only have one 240v breaker and it is already in use and the whole electrical panel is full.  I don't want to spend a lot of money on this and I am looking for cheaper solutions (e.g., not installing a subpanel!).

Could I pigtail this device with the existing 240v breaker?  The electrical usage of the device is minimal.  I don't know what is already on this breaker (it is unlabeled).  I have gas for stove, dryer, hot water, and heat.  Maybe the fridge or washing machine is the biggest electrical device.

Could I replace the breaker with a double tap breaker?  I don't know if that exists for 240v.  Here is a photo of the current breaker:

Are there other options?

I will be calling an electrician to come in and do the work, but I'd like to be sure there is a relatively easy way to do this before he gets here.


texts: What is this brown material in my 1950s-era ceiling light's electrical box?

texts:
I'm planning to re-wire a ceiling light fixture in order to bring a neutral line down to the switch box. I've identified where all of the lines go in the attic, it's easily accessible and there's no insulation in the wall (it's an interior wall) so this should be an easy project.
However, I opened up the light fixture to check it out and see if anything funny is going on... and I found this:

So far, it looks fairly normal, the neutral and hot wires come together in wire nuts to connect to the fixture. However when I pulled it down a bit further, I found some really weird crap up there surrounding the wires:

What is that stuff? It's taking up space in the box and it's not electrical wires, that doesn't seem like it's safe... Can I pull it out? It's almost like it's a kind of insulation, except it's solid.
For reference, here's what things look like in the attic:


texts: Hanging dry wall on mass loaded vinyl - can I glue and screw

texts:
I am finishing a basement and had a question about hanging drywall on top of MLV (Mass loaded vinyl).

The basement I am finishing has MLV fastened to the ceiling joists.

I am getting ready to hang the drywall on the ceiling and I was wondering about if/what glue I can use.

Normally you can glue and screw the drywall To ceiling (i.e liquid nails and screws)

In the case of mass loaded vinyl what do I do? Can you use liquid nail? Should I use green-glue? Is there a special glue to use? Or do I not glue at all and maybe just add some extra screws.

Thanks guys!


texts:
There is a screw in a hole in my laptop. I fail to unscrew it with a screw driver. How can I unscrew it?

The end of the handle of the screwdriver is loose, and what is the looseness supposed to be used for?

Thanks.

My tools


texts:
I am in the process of removing an old coal furnace.  after removing the natural gas conversion kit I now see some type of loose filler or insulation which was present around the conversion kit pipe.  There is also a substance that looks like joint compound which was used to adhere the sheet metal plate to the furnace opening.

How likely is it that either of these substances contain asbestos?  Is it possible to tell from a visual examination?  The kit says 1979 on it, so I assume the conversion happened in the 80s.  I'm pretty well past my prime, and I am the only person living in the house.  How risky would it really be for me just to put on a dust mask and sweep this stuff out of there?  Thanks in advance for any knowledge or advice that you are willing to share.


texts: Need temp.fix, seal until January when I'll replace the whole thing. Replacing gasket might not be possible due to age and state of the whole thing.


texts: Is it common for fencing companies to drill into your home rather than use a post?

texts:
Just had the gate and fence, fence on one side, gate on the other side of my home.
 The fencing company choose to drill into my home rather that use post.  I asked why they did that and they said because of drain pipes that come off the roof of my home.  Is this a common practice or were they just trying to cut corners?


texts:
This is a question about the ability of doing remodeling on one's own, compared to hiring licensed contractors.

I realize some remodeling/repairs require permits from your local township/city to be "legal" upgrades that are registered for benefits of resale and taxation.

Examples (and not sure if this includes a full list) would be adding/removing walls, replacing roof and/or shingles (permits for this is required in Flint, MI), electrical outlets (possibly needing to submit new electrical blueprints); I would assume that plumbing wouldn't need any town/city permits.

Also it is my understanding that only jobs requiring permits actually need any type of inspection. Is this correct/wrong? But the biggest question that I have for this is it possible to pull a permit for say electrical work, do the work yourself (making sure to follow all NEC regulations), and then have it inspected to be qualified to the town/city? As well as inspections of such type are done by certified masters of that field or is that a different certification to be an inspector?


texts: How can I change a single box in a vaulted ceiling so that it can accommodate a double fixture?

texts:
Previously, the vaulted ceiling did not have an electrical box.  My contractor made a level box (think letter "A") and it looks great.  It's all dry walled, etc.  The problem is, the light fixture has two rods and the plate is too wide for the surface he built.  Do you have any creative ideas as to how we can accommodate my light fixture without a total re-do??  HELP!
[![enter image description here][1]][1]


texts: What is best way to thoroughly clean airless sprayer after using shellac primer

texts: We will be using a shellac-based primer on our interior walls, using an airless sprayer.  I know it needs to be cleaned thoroughly with denatured alcohol. I read somewhere that I should run an additional product through the system, but cannot remember what it was. Does anyone know the process?


texts: How to insulate exterior walls with electrical wiring

texts:
As part of renovations to our home we chose to replace existing aluminium electrical wiring with Copper wiring. We also wanted to replace the original R7 insulation with something better (R14 or 15) to minimize heat loss.

The issue we have now is that with the walls open the contractor has run a whole bunch of wiring through the wall studs. This poses a challenge with how to properly insulate the walls. We are concerned the insulation may not properly fit into the space and I understand we need to be careful that the insulation does not get compressed which will compromise the R value.

Hoping the experts from the forum can suggest how best to handle this scenario. Thanks for all the help with our questions!

EDIT - updated photos below. Not sure if this addresses some of the concerns about wires not being properly secured.


texts: How to remove the handle on my Delta faucet?

texts:
One of my faucets is leaking in my bathroom sink.  I have a double-handle faucet set from Delta.  I removed the set screw from the cover but, for some reason, the cover still isn't coming off.  I tried using a putty knife and screwdriver to pry the cover off but it's stuck.  I also used WD40 to try to loosen it but that didn't help either.  How much force is required to remove the cover if I keep pulling up on it?  Is there some other screw that's holding it that I don't know about?  Am I missing one of the steps necessary in removing the cover?

UPDATE: I squirted WD40, CLR, and vinegar into both the handle hole and set screw hole but it didn't help.  I expected the liquid to flow down between the cover and the stem/cartridge but it seems like the liquid has no place to go so it comes out the same hole it went in.

I tried using a hair dryer to heat the cover so that it will expand but that also didn't work.

I've also tried hitting up on the cover with a rubber mallet to knock it up off the stem/cartridge.  No luck there.

Lastly, I tried to wrap a rag around the handle and used pliers to try to pull up on it but that also didn't help.  In fact, even with the rag and the teeth of the pliers covered with electrical tape, it still scratched up the cover.

Is there something else I can/should try?  Is there a way to squirt things up from the bottom of the cover to dissolve the dirt/minerals that's holding the handle tight to the stem?


texts: Any way to see if it's made of galvanized steel?

texts:
Is there any easy way for me to see if something is made from regular steel or galvanized steel?

I'm having some galvanized steel bases installed at my apartment, but I want to make sure it's actual galvanized and not regular steel or steel with a coat of rustproof paint, etc.

Thanks.


texts: I have a leaky shower faucet and was going to check the washer. What am I looking at here in the picture? Can't seem to get this cover off, it appears to be the actual control for the water flow and not the plastic cover, as seen on the other handles. Any help would be appreciated.


texts:
I suppose it's a three-way. The red light it's the only hot wire. It was like that when I came to the house. But the wire on top of the red it's going to other room switch and light. The one next to it. It's going to the room light. And the one under it's going to the other switch same room. I don't know where the other one is going.

It's in a room with two entrances. One light. And no the other room switch and light are not working.

I found this too. But idk if it was from there.


texts: Material containing asbestos in Toronto apartment

texts:
I'm moving to a new building in Toronto, and received this letter:

  In 2005, the Ontario government introduced a new regulation under the
  Occupational Health and Safety Act regulating the management of
  asbestos in construction projects and building and repair operations,
  Ontario Regulation 278/05 – Asbestos on Construction Projects and in
  Building and Repair Operations (“O. Reg. 278/05”). This regulation
  updated requirements with respect to asbestos-containing materials
  (ACM) in Ontario, including requirements for the responsible
  management of ACMs in buildings. On November 1, 2007, certain new
  requirements become applicable.

  To ensure compliance with the requirements, [apartment building]
  retained a well-known environmental consulting firm ("Great West
  Life") to provide advice and conduct asbestos-containing materials
  (“ACM”) surveys. The purpose of the surveys are to identify any ACM
  and, if identified, manage it in accordance with O. Reg. 278/05.

  ACMs were commonly used in building construction, particularly prior
  to 1986, because of the unique characteristics of asbestos, including
  strength, heat resistance and chemical resistance. We are advised by
  our environmental consulting firm that it is only ACMs that are in
  poor condition, “friable” (i.e. material that can be crumbled,
  pulverized or powdered), mishandled or mismanaged that represent a
  potential exposure risk. Accordingly, the aim of a formal
  identification and management program is to ensure that existing ACM
  that are left in place are not allowed to deteriorate or be handled in
  a way that will create that risk. This letter will service as
  notification that ACM may be present in your suite.

  The property is inspected annually to determine if any ACM requires
  removal. If removal is required, qualified technicians are brought in
  to complete the removal. It is also important that you seek and obtain
  [apartment building]’s approval if you intend to undertake or arrange
  any maintenance or renovation work that may disturb materials such as
  floor tiles and plaster. We also require that you provide this
  information to any other person in possession of, or occupying any
  portion of your unit.

I don't know how strict the regulations are in Ontario, and they couldn't tell me where exactly and in what quantity the asbestos was present in the building. It's a building built in the 70's to my knowledge, and it's a high rise apartment (around 25 floors).

My question is, is this a cause for concern, or are the regulations/compliance in Ontario good enough that I can rest assured the asbestos is sealed and not a danger to health? Or is it just a legal cover, and there's still a risk present that it's not inspected or maintained properly (or it's common to ignore/violate this regulation in a place like Toronto)?

I'd really like to move into this place, but if there's more than 1% chance that there might be exposed asbestos in the unit, that is too high a risk to take in my opinion.


texts: How do I get my blower motor to turn on with my new hydronic coil heat?

texts: My 2nd floor radiant heat developed an irreparable leak, so I installed a hydronic coil on my Spacepak air handler. The thermostat will turn on the water pump, but not the fan. I switched the thermostat to cooling, and the AC works fine, so I know the fan works. Now, how do I get the thermostat to turn on both the water pump and the fan for the heating? My water pump has white connected to W, and red connected to RH. My AC has blue connected to Y, green connected to G, and red connected to RC. Will a jumper from RC to RH turn on the fan for heat? Also, my t-stat is an Aprilaire 8363.


texts: How do I fix this noise coming from freezer

texts:
This noise has been coming and going for awhile but now it is pretty persistent. See link below of noise
How do I fix this before I go insane?
https://youtu.be/gDLPKQDPkzw


texts:
I just bought my first house, but I can't seem to understand how the sump worked.  I'd like to make sure it's hooked up and ready to go should the basement ever flood.

When I first walked in, the pump was disconnected and raised off the floor.  Next to it, was a piece of wood (badly) glued to the concrete floor.  When I pulled that off, there was an 8" deep round hole, and at the bottom, a square tile sitting in dirt.

Looking around the sump's location, there's no power outlet within reach (though a 6" extension cord will let me plug it into the furnace's outlet), and more importantly, nowhere obvious to put the drain hose.

I pried the cover off and put the pump in the hole, for what that's worth.

Can anyone make sense of this setup?  Hopefully I'm going in the right direction.

As far as other basement stuff goes, the realtor says the radon system and (maybe) the well pump are both new.


texts: Do I need to switch off A/C external breaker for winter?

texts: My home’s A/C has an external circuit breaker. Do I need to switch it off for the winter?


texts: Water heater flush leaving pilot on is it safe?

texts:
I have to do a water heater flush. From what I read, most websites said to leave water heater on pilot also leaving the gas on. Is this even safe?
would the water heater kick on when draining if left on pilot? will the tank be damaged if there is no water in the tank if left on pilot?


texts: How can I improve my hot water heater's performance?

texts:
I don't have the equipment details on hand but could probably get them if needed. It's a pretty standard boiler + hot water heater + pump set up.

Often the hot water coming out of the shower faucet is... not hot, to say the least, while sinks can get hot enough to scald.

Why is it that the shower is not providing the full range of heated water that is provided elsewhere?

I end up having to leave the shower running for 20 minutes or so to get the room warm and the water slightly warmer though it still never really gets that hot the vast majority of the time.

Is there anything I can do to increase the performance of the hot water heater so it provides hot water on demand? Again this really only affects the shower most of the time.


texts: How to update a switch loop to a 3 way switch

texts:
So the previous owners of this house decided to put two switches in a switch loop with two lights in the hallway.  The house is old, so it was probably the "fastest" way to get two switches on the hallway lights, but because they are in a switch loop with the lights, both switches must be on for the lights to be on.

Currently the circuit is as follows:

Panel to a junction. One of the cables goes off to power, the other to lights (that have the same issue...). The branch in question goes to the two hallway lights in series, and at the first switch there's a hot white with common black.  Then they ran 12-3 cable to another switch, capped the live wire (white) with the red, and included this other switch into the series (and just wired the 3rd wire to nothing...it literally runs from ground on one switch to ground on another).

I'm trying to imagine the best way to fix this and having trouble. I would want the common fixed to both switches, so do I need to drop 12-3 cable from the first lamp to the switch box, or is there something faster I can do?

Edit:  Here's a mockup I quickly put together in Sketchup.  The red dots are wire-nuts, the circular things are the lights, and the switches are self explanatory:

At this point, I think the proper thing to do would just be run a new circuit (with ground), and wire it properly as a 3-way switch.  Would also be easier than messing around with this thing any longer.


texts: Do I need a separate switch leg for a light and a fan in a combo fixture?

texts:
I'm putting in an exhaust fan light combo using a triple rocker switch.

Do I need a separate switch leg for the light and for the fan?

There are three silver screws on one side of the switch and a black screw on the other side. That said, apparently the black screw is a common. But I thought "common" meant neutral.

So, which is the screw to get power to that switch?


texts: Can I use a standard extension cord with my refrigerator?

texts: I live in the US and my refrigerator is 115 Volt. I'd like to power it directly from the socket with an extension cord, but I've been told that it must be powered via a surge protector or a special power cord. Is this true?


texts:
Along the back of my house there is a gutter approximately 20' long.  The lower end is coming away from the house.  A couple of years ago I replaced several of the old gutter nails with gutter screws.  The thread was a bit bigger than the shaft of the nail and most of them took fairly firmly.  In a couple of places I had to move the spot it went into the soffit over an inch or so to get it to take.  Now most of those screws are lose.

I fear that behind the aluminum cladding, the wood I'm attaching too is rotted but there is no other sign of water damage.  Assuming I have something to attach to, what are my options?  Bigger screws?  Move the screws again?


texts: What are the guidelines for holes in joists?

texts: I've been unable to find a good reference for the size/amount/location of holes I can drill through joists.  This is mostly in order to pass cabling or pipes through the joist crosswise.  Also, what about notching the bottom, is there a size threshold there as well?


texts:
I purchased an older house and when running some electronics i got a hum. Did some research and trial and error to figure out why What I came to realize its a ground problem in the old house. I have a new electrical panel so I'm up to code but the ground looks like its nothing more than a the copper line hooked up to the water pipes in the basement.
My question 1...Could I knock a small  hole in my basement floor and put in a grounding rod and switch the copper ground to use it?
Question 2 ...would I need to cut the power to the house to safely do that?
Thanks!!


texts:
This is kind of a convoluted situation, and I hope it isn't too confusing.

I just bought a home with my wife, and in the basement there was a hideous bathroom.  Functional, but hideous.  So I am tearing it out and remodeling as a DIY project.

The vanity, was clearly made by the home owner and was basically a bunch of plywood boards screwed together.  It was a little strange looking.  After tearing it apart, I found out why.

It looks like at one point, they removed one of the concrete block (interior) walls and replaced it with a couple metal columns and steel I-beams.  They did however leave the poured concrete footer, and the vanity was built around that.  I have a few questions that I was hoping I could get opinions on.

Why would they go through all the trouble of removing the block wall, but not jack hammer away the footer?  Am I wrong in my assessment?  I would provide pictures but I am away from home on travel.  I could get my wife to take some if need be though.
Is there any reason why I shouldn't jack hammer away this footer?  For the bathroom remodel, I could use the foot and a half or so of extra space.  I am going to get a structural engineer out here, but I wanted some opinions from here first.


texts: How do I repair a door jamb that has soft and split wood at the hinge in my 100 year old house?

texts:
We have an old house (100+ years) with original door frames. The top hinge on one door has come away from the door frame - the wood is split and soft, so the screws have no bite.

I'm thinking the best way to fix this, short of ripping out the whole door frame, would be to drill out the split wood, chisel it square, then glue in a new piece of wood for the hinge to be screwed into.

Is this a wise move or is there a better way?


texts: Are there any issues connecting Neutral and Live at once to the supply line?

texts: A normal plug point has the wiring structure of the normal cct diagram I've drawn below. I'm thinking about plugging a device into the outlet in a permanent way and keep the switch closed and control it using a switch at a separate place. My problem is will there be any electrical sparks or anything if I connect the live and neutral to the supply line at once?


texts:
I bought a house that has a microwave & wall oven combination.  It's a Kenmore model from 2008.  The microwave & wall oven combo vents through a metal pipe (about 4 inches) that runs through the cabinet above the unit and into the attic.  Now I'm putting on a new roof and I have the chance to run this vent outside if I want to.  Should I vent the microwave/oven unit outside through the roof or leave it venting into the attic?

As info, the cooktop and the range hood are on the opposite side of the kitchen, so I know those are not what is venting.  The hot water tank and bathrooms are also not near the unit so I'm fairly certain it's the oven/microwave that's venting up.

I know that in general venting to the attic is a bad idea, especially for bathroom fans.  However I was surprised that the oven/microwave was venting up to the attic at all instead of back into the room.

I have the chance to do this the right way since I'm putting on a new roof.  It wouldn't be a problem to vent this through the roof, but I also don't want to put on unnecessary roof vents.

Can anyone help?


texts: How can I raise a concrete bridge footing two inches?

texts:
I have two existing concrete footers from the previous bridge that are not leveled.  I thought about using hydraulic cement to level the top of it.  The left side needs to be about 2 inches higher than what it currently is, while the right side can remain the same.

The existing footers are 9 by 47 inches. The are about 3 feet deep into the ground and edge of the creek. The bridge will be made of wood. I used 3 2x12 10 ft long as arched trusses. I will be using 1x6 deck boards as the walking platform and they will be 4 feet long. Mainly foot traffic and a push mower. I just need to level the footers so when I anchor the bridge to it it doesn’t look like crap. I thought about shims but with the left side being 2 inches too low it would look like crap as well. My question is would you use self leveling cement to level the footers or do you suggest a different route?

I’ll add a photo of the footers when I get home from work.


texts:
I have a branford white hot water tank that is driving me crazy. I recently flushed it and it's partner (I have two tanks for underfloor heat), and now the pilot will not stay lit. I took the burner out, figuring my thermocouple had died, so I changed that--but problem persists. I press the igniter with the button down, pilot lights.. I've left it like this for over a minute, let go of the button, flame goes out immediately. I also noted, if I turn my tank to "on," turn the thermostat until it calls for heat and hold a lighter to the burner (I know.. Not the safest idea), nothing happens.

I cleaned the pipe for the pilot using a needle... I've tried everything I can think of... Any suggestions?


texts: Is this a cockroach that I just found in my basement?

texts:
Upstate NY USA here.

For the last few days I have been finding several of these bugs in my basement:

Top-side:

Bottom-side:

Is this a cockroach?!? If so, what species/subspecies/type is it? And if not, what else could it be?


texts: How can I make an enamel-on-steel bathtub feel/sound more substantial?

texts:
I'm installing an enamel on steel bathtub on a concrete slab. Any good ideas for what can I do to make it feel and sound less flimsy and hollow?

Edit: How about lead diving weights as harmonic dampers, attached to underside of tub with structural adhesive, surrounded/supported by Great Stuff foam, on top of a bed of scrap pressure-treated 2x4--I imagine that's a bad idea for some reason(s), but I propose it as a serious question. Why not?


texts: Window leaks from hole in bottom of frame

texts:
See the video.

I have a bad window leak.  The water comes in during rainy days and makes its way from the 2nd story window to the first floor window and wall just below it.  After much painful cluelessness I finally have a lead on a cause.  Today it rained and I got heavy dripping coming from a hole in the bottom right corner of the frame.

What is this, what causes it and how can I get this fixed?

I think what is happening is that black goop (silicone?) that is all over the window has clogged up the weep holes.  The water pools up and spills back into the house.  There's a small crack in the wall on the right probably from water and that may be where the drip makes its way down to the first floor.  You can see this happening realtime in the video 25 seconds in ending about 35 seconds in.


texts: How can I hang a ceiling fan with a 3/4 inch difference between the junction box and bracket?

texts:
I've taken down an old ceiling fan for replacement and found the octagonal junction box to be approx 3/4in above the ceiling, it isn't flush with the drywall which the new ceiling fan bracket mount requires.

I've searched everywhere for a 3/4in deep octagonal extension and can't seem to locate one.  The shallowest extension I've found is 1 1/2in which is too deep.  The building is old and I don't feel comfortable taking down the old junction box because there are many other wires running through it other than hot and neutral that supply the fan.

Is there something I can pick up or buy online that can make up the 3/4in difference?  I know I should just use an extension, the problem is I can't find one that is 3/4in deep.


texts: Is it bad/unusual for an oil burner to turn off then immediately back on?

texts:
We have an oil-fired hydronic heating system. The boiler is approximately 30-40 years old, and the system was checked and cleaned at the start of this winter. When the burner is running, you can hear it from the first floor. We've noticed that sometimes, after running for a few minutes, the burner will shut off for one or two seconds, and then immediately start up again.

This behavior doesn't really make sense to me, but I'm not sure if it's just a quirk or an indication of a problem. What could be causing the shutoff and then immediate re-ignition? Should we check it out or just stop worrying?


texts: How to cut away portion of sub floor to inspect for leaks?

texts:
I am a very new home owner (a few weeks) and I recently discovered a leak in my fully finished basement (discovered wet carpet). We had some concrete experts come inspect, $3800 quote later we will be getting some foundation work done.

The room that was moist, did not have sub floor. The room beside this one, has what I believe to be a plywood sub floor (~2 inches above ground). The concrete expert recommended I cut regions of the sub floor to inspect for moisture (so we know if we need to excavate a larger region). To do this, I need to first pull back the brand new carpet and underlay (recently renovated).

Can I simply cut anywhere? Or should I try and cut in certain regions (i.e. outer region of stud), so that I can simply re-screw the plywood down. I bought a circular saw for this reason.

I have minimal experience with anything house related, although I have been Google-ing the heck out of this.

Thanks!

Addition: If I remove an entire panel, should I expect it to be nailed and glued or just nailed down?


texts: What should I do to prevent mold from flooding?

texts:
Thanks to old plumbing, my upstairs toilet has flooded the bathroom -- and it's dripped all the way down to the downstairs bedroom, where it's soaked into the carpet there as well. I've got buckets and towels; however, I'm highly allergic to mold and mildew. What can I do to prevent the growth of mold?

Note: This is a rental situation, so anything involving ripping up the floor to get at insulation will require the landlord's approval and thus will take a few days at least, so non-invasive methods are preferred.


texts:
I installed some new "fancy" faucet, and am quite happy with it, except it lacks an aerator, and water easily splashes out of the sink. Obviously, this faucet is calling for an aerator. Unfortunately, the manufacturer doesn't sell aerators for this model, and my local hardware store doesn't carry any that would fit the rectangular end of the faucet (see picture below).

Short of replacing the faucet, how would you deal with this? Can I build myself a custom aerator? If so, how?


texts: Need advice on air compressor for home use

texts:
I'm in the market for a cheap air compressor. I need it for the occasional spray painting of furniture, inflating and switching of tires.

I've been looking at this air compressor:

The specs of the compressor are as follows:

2hp (1500 Watts)
~6 gallons in the tank (24 litres)
~7.8 CFM (222 litres per minute)
~116 PSI (8 bar)
Oil lubricated

Is this device going to fulfill my needs (based on the specs)? I've read that oil can leak into the air causing problems with spray painting. Is that something which can be prevented?


texts: Do under cabinet electrical outlets meet code and be passed by NEC in new construction?

texts: I would like to have the quartz back splash be clear of outlets and have them in a strip at the back under side of my kitchen cabinets.  The electrician currently is telling me that these strips will not meet code guidelines.  why do they sell them if they are not safe?


texts: Help me identify the source of this Fridge knocking/popping sound?

texts:
Not my fridge, but the exact sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzg7WsMHBpg
I live in a studio and sleep right next to my fridge, and this particular noise out of all the ones it makes wakes me up several times a night, so I'm desperate. Sadly, Frigidaire has actually disabled all its customer service due to Covid, even online chat or emailed questions.

I have a Frigidaire FFTR1814TW0

Noise occurs for 10-15 seconds roughly every hour or so

Noise comes from the back of the freezer (it's a top freezer fridge)

Occurs shortly after start of 'cycle' (goes from completely quiet -> the fan and compressor turn on and start working -> this sound within a few seconds -> regular fan/compressor noises until shutdown

Noise is a sort of random burst of knocking noises, not consistently timed in between each knock though, like you'd expect a fan obstruction to be

I've air-dusted the compressor coils on the bottom back. I also took the inner wall of the freezer back off and checked for frost in the fan or the metal ducts back there, didn't seem bad though.

I read somewhere that this sound is the coolant boiling off as it enters the evaporating coils... but that doesn't jive with the timing of the noise - wouldn't it be happening for the entire cooling cycle if that were the case?


texts: Can I get power from a light switch to add a single pole light and light switch

texts: I have a single pole light in my hall way and want to add a recess light with its own dimmer switch next to the existing light switch