texts: How do I shut off the power, so I can install a USB enabled electricity socket?

texts:
I want to replace a standard wall socket with a new USB which looks something like this...

The instructions say to turn off the power for the socket. I went to the master house control and took a picture...

I assume that I can turn the power off with the big switch on the right that currently shows "ON".  I do not know if this must work in concert with the objects containing white, blue, and red dots (don't know what they are).

Question: If I switch it "OFF" will it turn off the power?

Ancillary questions:

Does anything need to be done prior to switching it off?  Are the
objects to the left involved in any way?
Does switching it off invite any disastrous consequences that I
should be aware of?
Does anything need to be done prior to restoring power? Will the
house suffer from thermal shock?

As a final thought, if the picture gives an idea of the date or age, I would be grateful. I have been assuming the house is 1940's British Pebbledash.


texts: Is it safe for my house's main carrying beam to be two separate beams?

texts:
My house is 115 years old. The floors slope towards the center in every direction. I just discovered the main carrying beam is not continuous from the front of house to the back. The first is about 15' in length, the second is about 10' (I'm guessing). The 15' beam has a support column, then theres a second column that supports both beams where they meet.

There is a gap between the beams, about 1/2". Is this safe? Is this part of the cause of the sloping floors? Should it be replaced with one continuous beam?


texts: Who is the right professional to call for drainage issues?

texts:
I've got some concerns about the drainage on our property and want to consult with a professional about.  The problems, I'm not sure what kind of professional to call.

To provide some context, here's the issues I'm concerned about:

During heavy rains, our back yard becomes a wading pool.  This water accumulates up against the stucco of the house, but I've not noticed any penetration into the crawlspace (yet).  There is a drain system that is able to keep up with normal rain volume, but it's unclear where it drains to.
In the front yard, there appears to be erosion that has created a hollow area under a corner of our concrete driveway and the sidewalk.

I'd like someone to take a look at both situations and see if there's an overarching problem or if the drain system is broken and causing the erosion.  We've also got some settling in the garage (large crack in concrete floor) that makes me wonder if the drainage problems are related to that.  The drain line potentially runs next to the garage.

All the searching I've done to figure out who to call has yielded landscapers that would happily do work for me, but I'm not sure if they'd be able to investigate completely rather than just addressing the visible problems.  Is a structural engineer the right person to call in?  Someone else?


texts: Can I install a Subpanel (in a seperate building) using a 3 wire connection (2 hots and 1 grounded neutral)?

texts:
Can I use a 3 wire connection (2 hots and 1 grounded neutral) to install a sub panel in a separate structure if I install a separate ground rod to the grounding bus in sub panel?

I have 8/3 w/o ground running from the main panel for an existing 240 connection in a separate shed. I plan on replacing the existing 30 amp double breaker in the main panel with a 50 amp double breaker and I want install a sub panel that would allow me to have a 240 and a 120 outlet running off a 30 amp double breaker and a 20 amp breaker in the sub panel.

If possible and appropriate, I would like to use the existing 3 wire connection (8/3 w/o ground) to make the connection from the main to the a sub panel using the grounded neutral wire to connect to the neutral bus.  I would install a grounding rod and connect the grounding rod to a separate grounding bus in the sub panel.  I anticipate keeping the neutral bus and the grounding bus separate in the sub panel and do not anticipate bonding these two buses.

Will this work or do I need to replace the 3 wire connection (8/3 w/o ground) with a 4 wire connection (8/3 w/ground)?


texts: Cable clamp connector and knockout size for 6/2 NM and 8/2 NM

texts:
I'm running some cables for an electric tankless hot water heater. I haven't decided which one yet. It'll either need 2 x 40A, 2 x 50A, or 3 x 40A, all 240V (there are some that need 60A, but I'll pass on them). I plan on running two sets of 6/2 NM and one 8/2 NM from my breaker panel to some 4x4 metal boxes in the wall where I'll mount the water heater. That way, I can pick the breakers, and use the right two or three runs I need. Once I decide which water heater I'm using, I'll run FMC from the box(es) to the water heater.
I'm wondering what size cable clamp connector (and hence, knockout) I need for each 6/2+G NM cable and for the 8/2+G NM cable (I'm assuming no doubling of cables in a clamp). Also, can I have more than one (maybe even all three) in a single 4x4 box? Or would it be better to use two or three boxes?
Also, what kind of box(es) would I use? I'm only seeing 3/4 and 1" KOs, and I suspect I need something larger...


texts: Completely flat/flush recessed lighting trim

texts:
I can't seem to find these anywhere, but I really want a trim that is completely flush with the ceiling (at the mud level) for my 4" recessed cans. That is, I don't want the trim to have any profile that extends below the ceiling.

Does anyone know is something like this exists?


texts:
I have insulated a 'sweaty' pipe to prevent condensation from forming and dripping on to ceiling tiles (hyperlink provides context).  I have been advised that the insulation foam should have the slit at the 6PM position.

What is the reason to orient the slit at 6PM and not 12PM?

CLARIFICATION

The PVC pipe in questions carries cold water from second-story (AC evaporator) to the outside.  Because it runs above paneled ceiling on the first floor, the pipe 'sweats' and the condensation drips onto the ceiling tiles (resulting in stains and mold).


texts: How would I mount a laundry drying rack that doesn't line up with the studs?

texts:
Drying rack is going on the wall in the laundry room.  It is 24" wide, studs are 16".  Well one option would be to mount two rails on the studs, and mount the rack to the rails.  Maybe use 1x2 furring strips.  Not sure how finished this would look, or how much I care given it's in the laundry room.
Looking for other ideas or options. Sometimes I am not always sure what products are out there that can help. Thanks.
Worth noting, the rack comes with drywall screws for mounting, but I think with all of the loading and unloading, that is doomed to fail.


texts:
I have a porch column which has some rot at the bottom.  These are smaller porch columns similar to http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-6-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-Pine-Porch-Column-709721/202087424.

I've seen some videos (e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYLNaoU5z2M) that show how you can replace just the rotted portion.  This is what I am leaning towards as I can't find a match to my existing style at my local home improvement stores.  Plus I won't have to deal with the vinyl near the top ("flashing" I think it is called, right?).

Is this legit?  My porch roof is very small, it is just over the front door and the porch itself is probably no more than 12 sq. ft.

I've watched a few videos about how to support the roof while you replace the rot.  So I feel confident enough to pull it off.

Thanks.


texts:
Im thinking of implementing simple lift system to carry goods as well as a single person into the attic. 250Kg capacity electric hoist is good enough for this pupose but im concerned about safely aspect of this proposal.

Many youtube videos are showing this but none of them using it to transport a person.

Why not?


texts: I installed some engineered click-lock hardwood for the first time, and I made a small mistake, I made a bad cut and the edge is a bit far from the wall. I expect I will have to pull them out and install a new piece in that spot, which isn't a huge deal, but is there an easier way to fix it? Like would it look right if I just glued down a strip?


texts: Floor to ceiling bookshelf design: anything missing? okay to use MDF?

texts:
Novice here. Building a book shelf along the full wall and floor-to-ceiling of my basement. Made up some plans, since I couldn't find any that really matched.  Wondering a few things.

Am I missing anything?
Do I need any additional support (will attach to wall)
I know MDF is looked down on, but am I "okay" to use it for the verticals like this? They seem SO Much easier with the pre-drilled holes...etc.
Do I need the header 2x4s?

Notes: Was thinking the bottom would be 2x6s (treated, since on concrete), and the top would be 2x4s (not sure if needed, but figured I want something for the crown molding to go on.
Any thoughts/suggestions/insults welcome. Thanks! :)


texts: How can I get this pump casing off the motor?

texts:
I have a Monarch MJC-50 shallow well jet pump (1/2 hp) and I want to tear the pump portion down to clean, inspect, and rebuild as it isn't delivering the pressure it used to (and I have ruled out all other causes).

I am unable to get the pump housing/casing to come apart from the motor, and I am reluctant to use more force.

The manual doesn't help, as it simply says "remove casing" :) I am basically stuck on the 2nd part of step 5. Do I just need to use more force?

Here is the diagram of the pump. I can't seem to get piece #1 away from the motor portion.


texts: I have two 500 watt base board heaters on a circuit that is controlled by two 30 amp circuit breakers "tied together". What would be your suggested max. wattage that I could add in the form of another base board heater?


texts: I've seen a question similar to this before and most answers say its because 6 AM is the coldest time of day, but this is incorrect. In northern climates it's very common for detectors to chirp low battery warnings at night (or when away from a vacation home with the heat turned down) and not during the times when the furnace is set to a warmer temperature. Most, in my experience, don't have the "intelligence" to store a low battery warning and reset it when the battery is changed. It's a continuous voltage monitor and that's it. So is there any other explanation?


texts: Should the high side of a concrete block retaining wall be sealed?

texts:
I am mid-project in a DIY yard project. I have subbed out a large retaining wall to a civil / wall contractor. It’s 220 feet long, between 2-5′ in height, and makes 2 90-degree turns. It’s built to code with CMU blocks and has an overkill of rebar in it and through the 26″ wide and 14″ deep footer. I’m in Southern California, so it’s a dry climate. I plan to have the face of the wall stuccoed.
The wall just went up this weekend, but hasn’t been filled with concrete, yet. That is coming this weekend. Before he comes back on Saturday morning I wanted to get a few things cleared up for my own knowledge and to know what to ask for to make this wall last. The wall has a lot of room behind it now, but will be backfilled with 12″ of 3/4 gravel and then compacted and graded soil. No landscape fabric.
When reading on the Internet, the topic of sealing the back, “positive” side of the wall has come up quite a few times. People on the Internet say both you should NEVER seal a retaining wall and others say you should ALWAYS seal a retaining wall. The never crowd says that hydrostatic pressure will build behind the waterproofing and lead to a wall failure. The always crowd says that letting water into the blocks will lead to the blocks deteriorating and the stucco peeling off of the front face in a few years. Some places even seem to have local building codes that either require it or require you not to do it. My local building code does not even mention sealing the backside of retaining walls either way. What is reality – should you seal the back like a below-ground foundation or not seal it at all?
Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: Can I cover junction boxes in the attic with insulation?

texts:
This may be a duplicate of What are the codes for electrical wiring in attics?

I have an attic which is accessible via a ladder through an access panel in the garage and in a bedroom.  The trusses and joists are all open and there is blown in insulation up to the height of the joists.  In the future I need to have more insulation installed.  Is it safe (up to code) to cover the junction boxes with more insulation or is this considered concealing them?  Would I have to raise all of the junction boxes above the insulation for each light fixture, fan, etc.?


texts:
An old ground-floor office has an old electric water heater.  The building was built in 1994, so the water heater's age could be ~25 years. The tank / office has been unused for the last 8 years.

What is the decision making process to determine if it makes sense to replace the water heater now or wait until it fails (leaks or stops producing hot water)?


texts: How to add additional speeds to a box fan

texts:
I have a 20" Box Fan, that has 3 speeds. It's a commerical model from Lasko, heavily built, puts out a lot of air... too much actually for my normal needs.

So I'd like to add speeds in addition way slower than what it has. As far as I can tell it's a straight power cord to the motor with a 3 way switch which I assume is some sort of resistor bank that limit the power to the motor.

In a perfect world I could have a similar switch with 6 or more settings, or alternatively another switch that works with the existing one, to multiply the 3 speed setting, which I think can be done by resistors in parallel or series.

I know a little about electronics, but not enough as to the best way to go from here.  Part of me was thinking of a lamp dimmer but doubt those can handle the inductive load of a fan, or an AC fan speed control like this http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Control-Cord-AC-Cooling/dp/B00809BQZG

Here's a pic of the project if curious, it's DIY allergy filter using the box fan and a decent hepa furnace filter. https://instagram.com/p/z07BOOJ0pX/?modal=true


texts:
I have a 2 zone, single stage, heat only system with 2 wires running to each thermostat. I'm looking to install 2 Ecobee's; I have a second Honeywell AT72D1683 that I can install if needed and have new 5 wire cable ready to run as soon as I know where to hook it up.

Zone Valve = Honeywell F-10 0805  V8043E1019
Transformer labeled 8004

I'm attaching a diagram of the current configuration hexagons represent wire nuts.


texts: Pouring drainage channel right next to foundation, how to protect the foundation?

texts:
Ugh.  How can I arrange details on this concrete pour, to not damage the foundation later?

This is San Francisco Bay area (no freezing).  The visible clay pipe is a high volume gravity drain from the driveway and thus unfortunately sets the vertical level of things (it was somebody's DIY project in 1950). This drain had been blocked until just last week, with a soil having built up to block the drain.

The house is half cripple wall, half slab.  This is the slab section.

There's also a low volume french drain outlet dumping in the same area.  The idea is to have the water rather than soaking in, sheet out over the existing concrete to the neighbors (that neighbor rejected the idea of piping downhill through their property to the curb, so I'm doing the best I can).

The sill plate is about an inch above the stucco bottom edge.
I'm concerned about pouring directly against the foundation.
The local soils are expansive clay, and I know there will be relative motion over time.  The right pour is, to me, murky.  Your thoughts?


texts: Can an electrical subpanel go underneath plumbing?

texts:
I was about to wire up my new basement subpanel when I realized I had put it directly under a toilet.

I don't think this is a code violation. I can relocate it with some difficulty. I'm also considering a hack like cutting a slightly larger piece of PVC in half and putting it under the plumbing pipe to carry any water to the other side of the joist.

Is the present installation unsafe? If so, what should I do?


texts: Are new buildings warmer (when first built)?

texts:
My wife is a teacher in a new school that has just been built in the North East UK, and staff and pupils think it's too warm. They have been told that:

  "new buildings are warmer due to the curing / drying of the materials for the first few years".

This sounds like bunkum to me. Can anyone deny or confirm this?


texts: How do I get the insulation blower into the attic?

texts:
I rented an insulation blower. Apparently it weights 150 lbs and I'm not sure if I can get it up into the attic.
Or, perhaps, are the hoses long enough to reach all edges of a 1000 sq ft attic without requiring the blower to be inside the attic?


texts: What amps would I need for a variac fan controller?

texts:
I'm looking for a variac controller for a fan. I found one, but it's available in different models based on amps.

How do I work out which controller would be the best one for my fan? My fan specs are: VK150, 230V, 80W

How can I work out the required amps needed to run the fan on a UK power supply?


texts:
My garage is below a heated room, and there are heating pipes running through the garage to heat that room. In the recent incredibly cold spell in New England, one of those pipes froze and burst. I have lived in this house for 30 years, and this is the first time I've had a problem; now I have to figure out the correct solution. My plumber tells me that the pipes can't reasonably be moved anywhere better. They do have pipe insulation on them (though due to my own stupidity the insulation on the place that burst had fallen off and I hadn't replaced it.)

The garage is about 17'x17'; there is an adjoining room as well that is about 13'x12'. The house itself is heated with gas forced hot water. The garage has an old large radiator in it that is part of the basement zone; several years ago I put insulation over that radiator, as the basement zone rarely fires (it stays pretty warm down there due to the boiler itself).

In addition to better pipe insulation (which again my plumber tells me is insufficient), I see two reasonable solutions:

replumb the radiator in the garage to be on its own zone and set it to some really low temperature, or
purchase an electric wall-mounted heater to heat the garage, again to some low temperature.

Which of those is preferable (or is there another solution I'm missing)?

Clearly this is (at least historically) a pretty rare issue for me, so I don't need or want a high-end solution, but it was sufficiently unpleasant that I would like to address it.


texts:
I'm trying to figure out why an exterior GFCI does not have power at the supply lines. Last week, my friend let an extension cord that was plugged into it fall into the water in the pool. She was certainly lucky that no one was in it.
There is an outlet directly opposite this inside the house, as well as an exterior light just above it, presumably on the same breaker.

Could something have happened to the wire that I cannot see inside the house?

Thank you for your help.


texts: Can I SAFELY install a Grounded Dishwasher in a mid 1950's home which was wired with a 2 wire UNGROUNDED circuit?

texts: We have just moved into a mid 1950's home which was wired with a 2 wire circuit--NO GROUND. I have purchased an stand alone GFCI 5b Outlet Adapter for protection(Tower - 5 Outlets, 125 Volt, 15 Amp, White, GFCI 5b Outlet Adapter 5-15P, 5-15R NEMA Configuration, cUL, UL File E174279 Mfr Part #: 30440003 MSC Part #: 36029262). My question is can I install a Model # DDT595SMJES 24 in. Top Control Dishwasher by GE with this GFCI outlet adapter substituting for the Ground protection, or will the GFCI not protect from electrocution if it has no ground? OR, is this GFCI Outlet Adapter going to serve the same function os a 3 wire grounded circuit with a GFCI?


texts: Hangin IKEA ALGOT shelve on drywall-like structure

texts:
There is a 50 mm thick wall which separates my balcony from the neighbors one. The damage done accidentally by my neighbor, show structure similar to drywall

I was thinking about mounting an IKEA ALGOT using:

Two 84 cm wall uprights.
One 88 cm mounting rail.
Three 38 cm wide metal shelve.

Ideally I'd like to support up to 15 kilograms per shelf giving ~ 45 kg in total.

Now, wall uprights are mounted using 4 bolts. Since I cannot simply drill through the wall and use proper drywall anchors,  I was thinking about something like 30 mm Fischer Duo Power plastic fixings (according to specs it should support at least 6 kg / bolt), but I have serious doubts if it can hold the load.

I'd be grateful for any insights / suggestions.


texts: Storm-chasing contractors and insurance claims

texts:
This is the year we planned to replace our roof. When we bought the house five years ago, the home inspector told us that it was coming up on being due, so it was the next big thing on our list after taking care of a few other important elements over the last few years. We had a couple of big windstorms a few months ago, and lost a couple of shingles which I replaced, but I didn't think any more about it (that just happens, right?).

A roofing company representative knocked on the door the other day and volunteered to check the roof for us. They found a bunch of damage from the windstorms that had escaped my amateur eye. With our authorisation, they filed an insurance claim on our behalf. The insurance adjuster was here today, and he indicated that the claim would be paid. I now have a figure from the insurance company, and am wondering how to proceed.

We have signed documents agreeing that the roofing company that filed the claim on our behalf gets to do the job. I have no qualms with that --- we were going to pay for the whole job ourselves, so we're very happy to only pay a deductible, and we wouldn't be in this situation without them. But, now that I have a figure, is the roofing company going to play games with me? Are they going to charge more than what insurance is going to pay out, leaving me more out of pocket than might otherwise be? How do I proceed in negotiating with the roofing company?

(Sorry if this is not relevant to this StackExchange: it's related to home improvement, but not DIY. Happy to take it somewhere else if mods suggest.)


texts: Why did my dishwasher have a spark at the door hinge?

texts:
This morning when my wife opened the dishwasher there was a pop and she thought she saw a flash near the bracket arm that swings the door down. I also smelt some slight burning.
What bothers me is the RCD did not trip and the fuse box in the plug is OK and the dishwasher was still powered. If this had been an electrical fault it should have blown something.
Is there normally electrics in the side panels of dishwashers?
How can I be sure if the dishwasher is safe?


texts: Why is my table saw blade burning oak boards as I make rip cuts?

texts:
Bought a new saw blade, most expensive one I've seen and it still burns the wood and takes some pushing to get through.
I am ripping 1 3/4 thick oak with the grain.
Blade is Orange Chrome Heavy Duty Multi Purpose Carbide 10" x 0.126"
60 TCG

Am I expecting too much? Wrong type of blade? Bad blade?


texts: How to fix an uneven (curved) upper window box to install blinds?

texts:
The top of my window frame is curved, probably as a fail in construction. Just noticed it when I was trying to install new blinds.
You can see it in the picture below that it is uneven by the center of the frame.

Now when I try to install the blinds I need like another quarter inch for the edge to latch into the holder:

Is there any simple solution? I can think in adding spacers (which I just did temporarily, but looks quite ugly), or to do some sanding in the center to remove the extra material in the curved part and then repainting.
Edit: Forgot to add that the frame is vinyl.
Thanks a lot!


texts: Why are GFCI systems typically in the receptacle instead of in the breaker?

texts: Since the breaker box contains all the other electrical safety equipment it would make sense to put GFCI systems here; and GFCI circuit breakers are available which do this. But GFCIs inside receptacles are much more common. Is it just because they're older, because they are easier to reset, or something else?


texts: Can I use a GFCI on an ungrounded 2-wire circuit at the terminus?

texts:
I mistakenly ran 18ga twin lead through plastic conduit out to power 12 volt lights. Never hooked up.  Now I want to power a .68 amp 120V pump on a water feature. Too many 90 degree elbows to be able to pull and replace the wire, I believe.

I read in my 1999 electical manual that I can safely use a GFCI on this ungrounded circuit at the terminus.

I want to make sure this is OK.
What about making a separate ground via a earth rod at the terminus?

Don't want to create a hazard for anyone of course, but I am trying to avoid having to but a new 12V pump and transformer or running all new service to the location.

TIA


texts:
I recently had to disconnect the toilet connected to this pipe, and on connecting it back I seem to have accidentally twisted it (despite efforts to the contrary.) This has caused a tiny leak on one of the yellow elbows.

It's plastic pipe, looks to be 10mm, is from a house in the UK built around 2000, and seems to be really hard not to twist.

What type of pipe is this, and what should I do now to try to fix it - should the elbows be replaced, and if so with what / how? How can I try to avoid twisting it in the future when I do this sort of work?


texts: Is it a bad idea to use pine for painted exterior siding if prepared properly?

texts:
My house is about 95 years old, and currently has wood clapboard siding that is in pretty rough shape and needs to be replaced. My local lumber yard has 1/2" x 6" for $0.53/linear foot. Since vinyl starts around $2.50/linear foot, I am considering trying the pine out. I would install it myself. I am already close to underwater in my mortgage, and don't want to invest in vinyl right now.

I did a lot of research on the best way to cover the knots in pine, and people seem to have the best luck with this BIN Primer with a shellac base. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/primer-sealers/b-i-n-shellac-base-primer. People say that it is VERY important to do 2 coats. One that dries at least 30 minutes, and one that dries overnight. Then primer, then paint.

Is it a bad idea to replace the siding with pine? I am in the Northeastern US.


texts: How can I mount a Ring Pro on this door post?

texts:
My wife has had her heart set on getting a Ring Pro video doorbell since someone at work demonstrated theirs. We picked one up from Lowes today, but discovered we had an issue when we got home and looked at installing it.

Somehow, we'd missed that the doorbell is set into the post at a perpendicular angle. The people with Ring Pro support are sending a bracket, but I don't think the result will be able to be mounted without blocking the screen door. I can't find any handy spot where the post is fastened into the door frame such that we might drill holes to reroute the wires.

It kind of looks like there's some amount of separation, but I haven't found any nails or screws. Is there any advice on how I might get this doorbell hung?

The inside of the post does not appear to be hollow:


texts:
I would appreciate some help with a problem I'm having.  Here's what my layout looks like:

I have 2x8 floor joists spaced 16" on center under the main floor of my 2 story home.   There's an area with a basement window that sits at the same height as the joists.  The 2 joists in this area were cut and tied into a header made up of 2 sistered 2x8s which then forms a box around the window.  The span of the header and box is less than 4ft wide.

Now here's the problem:

We had an overzealous AV installer running cable in the basement and basically he drilled a 7/8" hole through the 2 sistered 2x8 (that form the header end of the box).   The bottom of the hole is 1 1/8" from the bottom edge of the 2x8s.  Obviously less than the 2" required by code.   The hole is located about 4 1/2" from one end of the header (ie where it ties to the supporting joist).

What I'm trying to determine at this point is whether I need to rip out the drywall and try to build in some additional support.  At 7/8" it's a not a very large hole, but I worry about the 1 1/8" from the edge and the fact that the load from two joists are tying into this header.

No sagging or any other issues at this point as this just happened yesterday.

Do you guys think I'm going to have issues with this?

I've included a sketch of what that side of the house looks like from the perspective of looking up at the floor joists from the basement:


texts: Can I cover rebar sticking vertically out of the ground with something that would permit me to pour concrete over top of it?

texts:
First off, this project is free from review from inspectors; i.e. none of this has to be to code.

I want to pour a concrete column.  The column isn't structural - it's like a column you may find at the end of a driveway.  In my mind, I think I would be better off "anchoring" it so it doesn't slowly migrate downhill.  Again, there is no appreciably slope, this is hypothetical (there really isn't a slope, I'm just thinking of reasons why things may move - the more likely cause it getting hit by a bumper, really).

I see post after post talk about the "don't"'s of hammering rebar into the ground and then pouring concrete around it.  I understand that the rebar will give moisture a way into your concrete.  It will eventually rust and destroy the integrity of your concrete.

The deal is I have six rebar sticking out of the ground right where I want to build a form and pour a column of concrete.  Rather than just cut the existing rebar off at the surface, I'd like to utilize them as "anchors" by putting something non-corrosive over top of them and taking advantage of the "staying power" they have to offer.

Can I cover them up with something?  Sort of like a rebar condom.  Does such a thing exist?  Can I use aluminum foil or a plastic tube to protect the concrete from the corrosive rebar?


texts: How do I know my current R-Value for my attic?

texts:
I am a first-time homeowner.  One thing that was noted on the house inspection was that we needed more insulation for our attic.  In my area, the recommended R-Value is 38 according to the ornl.gov site.  Apparently 60 is "best" according to the JM.com site (link).

But how do I know what my current R-Value is?


texts: How do I remove these fence post spikes?

texts:
I want to buy these:

To replace my existing ones:

I want to remove the old ones. What is the easiest way to pull them out?


texts: Should a smoke alarm be installed in the attic?

texts:
I installed hard-wired and interconnected smoke alarms through the house. I wondered, though, if a fire spread through my attic I might not know about it until the ceiling or roof collapsed.

Should I install an interconnected alarm in the attic?

Is there some reason this isn't required/recommended?


texts: How to take a house apart in sections to move?

texts: I live in NC and looking for a free house to move and relocate. First, does anyone know of or how to find one within reasonable distance and second, is it possible to move one in smaller sections without doing a complete dismantle? Any help on finding and moving one is sincerely appreciated. Thanks to all. Randy


texts:
I'm trying to build a free-standing fence or barrier that will sit on top of concrete similar to this picture:

The fence I want to build is a bit taller - 6-8ft. Two questions:

How wide does the "feet" of the fence have to be to keep it from falling over in the wind?
I'm thinking about putting support braces in the photo like the picture - do they have to be on both sides of the fence and what size and height does the brace have to be?


texts: How can I connect coaxial cables to my wall?

texts: I have cables that my cable company laid running all over the place. How do I connect these cables to the wall?  What is the name of this part, so I know what to buy?


texts: Correct hardware to attach to stud with this dresser anchor kit?

texts:
Background

I bought a dresser and it came with this chain for anchoring the dresser to the wall. It did not come with the hardware that attaches to the stud.

The dresser weighs maybe 125 lbs with the drawers out. Also, it came with two of these chains for anchoring, but I just showed one in the photo.

Ideas

I was thinking either a D Ring or an eyehook

Question

Is one type of hardware better than the other for anchoring purposes ? I like the idea of a D hook because it has two screws that would have to fail vs. the one eye hook screw. Does the screw thickness make a difference ?


texts: How can I neaten up the corner between stairs and wall

texts: We had wooden stairs installed, but did not have any frame installed beforehand. We’d like to make this look better. Looking for ideas and suggestions.


texts: Why is only one of seven wires in my light box live?

texts: Had to replace cellar porcelain light fixture when I open box up it was packed I now have 3 lines coming in, 2 with 2 wires, 1 with 3. With power on only 1 wire is showing hot with detector. So basically have 7 wires and only one is live???? Help


texts:
I recently bought a house and the heating bill has been unusually high. I discovered there is a big hole leading to the outside that the previous owner hid, but isn't sealed properly. Their patch was just a piece of wood with nails, but it is so badly secured, it lets tons of air out and isn't allowing the furnace vents to build pressure.
The hole itself is an 8.5" diameter circle. Currently there is a 8.5" diameter fan blade there. Yet, that fan is leading to the outside. Behind the fan blade it leads what appears is the conduit through which the air blows.

This picture is a fairly good representation. The toys are inside the ventilation, which is above a closet, and running towards the fan, beyond which is the outside of the house.
I thought I could simply buy some expanding foam, but after buying the foam, found it has tons of warnings not to let it anywhere near heat or it could combust. There is an additional worry because the fan blade has wires those could cause a fire too.
I will pull out the 8.5" fan out, I'm left with a circular hole to patch. What can I use to safely patch this? There is a product like this called duct seal compound, but the product demonstration pictures show it used on cracks, not on a giant hole. Can it be used to fill such a huge hole?


texts: Connecting a 200 amp sub panel to 600 amp line

texts:
I have 600 amps feeding a 600 amp main panel.
It is a GE panel, 600 amp rated bottom feed and the sub panel is less then 1 foot away.
Can i feed a 200 amp sub panel with main breaker with 4/0 wire and bond it directly to the feeders on the main panel ?


texts: RO system water getting stuck in Stage 4 membrane

texts:
I have an APEC Water RO system that has recently stopped working properly (low flow caused by inadequate water in the tank). The system is ~14 months old, and I just recently changed the stage 1-3 filters. It appears that water is getting stuck in the stage 4 membrane and not making it to the tank and/or faucet. Here's what I've done to troubleshoot:

Removed stage 1-3 filters and reinstalled them
Drained tank and checked pressure while empty (7psi)
Removed each quick connect fitting starting from the water line throughout the system, checking to see if water was flowing. Identified the exit line of the stage 4 membrane as where the water flow stopped
Opened the stage 4 membrane (first time I've done so) to look for obvious issues -- but I have no idea what to look for and nothing seemed wrong

Any ideas on what might be causing this?


texts:
I have a gap between the wall and gate which allows rabbits to get into the backyard. My objective is to rabbit proof this gap.

I've considered pulling the gate closer to the wall with the threads on the hinges. That just moves the gap to the center.

My best idea at the moment is to epoxy some wire mesh to that gap. If you look carefully at the image you can see some residue from some duck tape that I used previously to seal the gap with some shade cloth. This worked for around a year until the duck tape came off. So I'm looking for a more permanent solution.

Although I think that my idea of wire mesh and epoxy will work I've found that 100% of the time that I've posted my idea to DIY that someone has answered with a better idea.

EDIT to answer questions:

The gate consists of 2 parts. There's an identical hinge on the other side.

The gate only needs to swing towards the position where the photo was taken from.

The gap is 1.75 inches wide. The black painted frame to the gate is metal. You can see another metal pole against the wall. The wall itself is block.


texts: Should I cover area where ceiling once was?

texts:
I'm in the process of converting a 10'x11' bedroom into a master bathroom. I plan on removing the ceiling soon and it will be replaced when the drywallers come in a month or two.

My question is, should I use some sort of a tarp or something to cover the area that the ceiling was? If so, what should I use?  How should I fasten it?

Also, should I just allow the insulation to come down with the ceiling when I take it down?

The room that we'll be removing the ceiling from.
As you can see, all of the drywall has been removed as well as the carpet and pad so I'm not worried about the mess from the insulation.

What the ceiling texture looks like.
We hate this texture and we're going to have it scraped by the drywallers but we were told that it would probably be just as cheap for them to put up a new ceiling and texture it plus this would give us good access for running new wiring, plumbing etc... (notice that it's not popcorn texture, but something else)

Attic space above the room.
Previous owner did some shoddy wiring. Hopefully there's no asbestos in the insulation! Also, notice the old-school TV antenna?


texts:
So, I have had this problem going on for about a month and a half now with my A/C.  Throughout the day, the A/C will work fine.  However, there will come a time in the middle of the night when it stops working.  When this happens, the outside compressor does turn on, but the blower motor does not and the house temperature never cools to the desired setting.  I eventually turn the system off to prevent the coils from freezing.  This doesn’t happen every night, but does most.  It also doesn’t happen at a consistent time.
When the problem occurs, I have tried turning the A/C off and on, but it seldom matters.  I also tried testing the fan on the "non-auto" thermostat setting, but even that doesn’t turn the blower on.  I have already had two different HVAC technicians take a look, but they both say that they are unable to troubleshoot the problem unless it is happening when they arrive.  Since this only happens in the middle of the night, I am out of luck and starting to lose lots of sleep.
I have resorted to some troubleshooting on my own and here is what I find when the problem occurs in the middle of the night.  I go to the control board and verify that the thermostat is sending the low voltage signal on the “G” fan wire.  I have also verified that the low voltage signal is being sent from the control board to the ECM motor on the correct tap for the A/C.  I finally verified that the control board is sending the high voltage to the motor.  To me, it all seems that the motor is getting what it needs and should be running fine just like it does all day long.  Hmmmm…so why does this problem only happen at night?
There is one interesting thing that I noticed.  It might have nothing to do with anything, but perhaps it’s worth considering.  Throughout the day, the AC voltage that I measure from the outlets in my house is usually in the range of 120 – 122 volts.  It seems that at night, the voltage drifts a bit higher.  When the problem happens, I usually find it to be around 123 and change.  This certainly seems reasonable and should not cause a problem, but it is the only thing I see that appears to differ at night.  Perhaps the motor is going bad? Since this is an ECM type motor, there is no start capacitor to check.
So, my question is this.  I’m about to pull the string and buy a new motor, but before I do, I was wondering if all signs point to a failed motor.  Is there any other troubleshooting that I can do?  A new motor is pretty pricey and I would hate to spend the money and still have the same problem.  Thanks in advance for any help.
Model Numbers:
A/C: Carrier 59SP5A080E171216
Blower: HD46MQ134


texts: What could cause my old gas furnace to keep cutting out?

texts: I have a old gas furnace that keeps cutting out. It turns on and the when it hits the temp it turns off and then when it turns on it will not give it gas. It will just sound like it blowing but no air comes out of the vents. And I can't see any flame in the furnace. I have had an repair guy come out and all he did was hit the little reset switch in the furnace and it fixed it. For a little while at lest, now I have to do it at lest once a day. I don't know what is wrong. I don't what to keep calling someone out to just hit the reset switch. Dose anyone know what is wrong?


texts: I need to change out a ceiling fan capacitor, but cannot find exact replacement. 4.5uf(280v)+ 5uf (250v)+5uf(250v)....4 wire, per picture. What would be suggested replacement, based on if & the 280v to 250v?


texts: Would refilling an AC with refrigerant improve its performance after 8 years?

texts:
I just got a little AC (8000 BTU). It works Ok, I guess its a bit small for the room (20m2) but even just bringing the temp down from 30C to 25C is enough of a difference to stop me from sweating.

I bought it second hand but it looks almost brand new, the previous owner used it for a few months and then had it in storage for 8 years. Question is though, how likely is it that some of the refrigerant has leaked over all those years? Would bringing it in for a refill likely make a difference?

I miss the winter and keep fantasizing of 16C.


texts: Is it okay to use construction adhesive to install an interior door on concrete wall?

texts:
I have a 1B1B apartment, for which I want to install an interior door at the entrance of the living room and convert it into a separate room. Please see the picture below for reference.
The wall is concrete and it takes a lot of effort to make holes in it, So I am thinking if it is okay to just use construction adhesive to attach the door to the wall.
The opening is about 1/2'' wider than the door on each side. So my plan is glue a wood frame on the wall, and attach the door to the wood frame. But I am not quite sure whether construction adhesive is strong enough to do this job. Can anybody give some suggestions?


texts: Moving electrical panel. Do I need to rewire all circuits?

texts:
We are planning a large remodel in our home. As part of creating a basement apartment we have to relocate the electrical panel so that it's accessible to us as well as the tenants. We will do that by moving the panel a few feet and flipping it to face the outside of the house so it can be accessed from the exterior.

Here's the question: Our GC tells us that as part of moving the panel we need to run new wiring for all existing circuits in the house. The reason for this is that we are effectively establishing new service and the existing wiring can't be extended and/or reused. Is that correct? Is there a way we can meet code and not have to run new wiring for every circuit in the house?

Update: Reading the answers to Relocating Main Panel, seems like it would be possible to install junction boxes and use them to splice the wiring for the existing branch circuits. Is this correct? I'm located in Seattle if it makes a difference.


texts: Where to get solid aluminum "battery" replacement cylinders?

texts:
I once saw an ingenious setup while doing work for a state agency.  A contractor created a "black box" that contained a Canon camera in it for photographs that normally needed batteries in both it and the flash.  Instead they used solid aluminum cylinders that were crafted to be of identical size of AA and AAA batteries that then had nodes attached on one of the batteries so as to pass voltage on into the device through through a wire that was attached through a small hole drilled into the casing.

Ever since I saw this I realized just how much trouble I could save myself if I could find a handy source for these battery "replacements" and then just wire up the devices according to their electrical needs.  As a matter of fact, I've managed to do this for 9v rectangular batteries already with stock components.

I have quite a few devices that remain at fixed positions and so there's absolutely no reason to really use batteries in reality for them.

Any idea on where I could obtain such battery "plugs" vs having to go to a machine shop to have them turned out?

NOTE: The thought has crossed my mind about using aluminum foil or foil tape and just turning existing batteries into conduits without having to get solid battery shaped replacements, but I worry about corrosion and various other problems with leakage, etc. I don't know if covering the battery nodes with electrical tape to insulate them first would be enough to keep the battery from eventually decomposing, etc., but I have reservations here...


texts: Why has my garage door opener (139.53975SRT1) stopped working?

texts: My garage door opener stopped working. I checked the power outlet it's plugged into and it's working. I checked other things (locks and springs) recommended by the manual and they seem ok to me. However when I try to turn on the lights inside the unit from the control panel it makes a clicking sound but the lamps don't light up. I'm comfortable with going inside the unit and do further testing but I need to know if it's worth it or should I ask for help from the pros.


texts: How can I prepare a wall for reasonably heavy tiles in a shower area?

texts:
I'm renovating a bathroom in my apartment and would like to fit 12mm Travertine tiles in a bath/shower area. For most of the walls in this area I have used cement board (Hardibacker 500) attached directly to suitably spaced studding. However, I have one wall which is a boundary between apartments and I'm not allowed to strip it back to the stud to re-clad it.

By drilling a couple of holes I've found that this wall seems to be constructed from double thickness (~30mm) of Gyproc Soundbloc and is painted. I had planned to remove the paint, screw and glue some 6mm cement board (Hardibacker 250) to the wall, and then seal all the edges with silicone. However, I'm worried that moisture could still permeate through the backer board and gradually weaken the plasterboard.

How I can prepare this wall for reasonable heavy tiles, taking into consideration that it'll be a wet area?


texts: Can an RV exceed the "50% fixed load" rule?

texts:
Suppose you have an RV.  It has a number of fixed, factory installed onboard loads - lights, heating, hot plate, etc.    It also has some NEMA 5-15 receptacles.

The RV is wired with an "inlet" or a cord, which goes into a receptacle at the home or RV park or campsite.

Normally, if a circuit has receptacles, the fixed loads on that circuit can't be more than 50% of circuit capacity.

Is that also true for RVs?   That is to say: Does the presence of a 120V/30A plug/inlet imply that the fixed loads in the RV only draw 15A max?


texts:
I've seen flat washers that have the same diameter, but vary in thickness.

How does depth affect a washer?

What is the best application for a thin washer? What is the best application for a thick washer?


texts: Painting exterior door, what paint to use?

texts:
I'm refinishing my grandmothers front door. It is metal (I'm sure) with a coat of factory primer (I think).

I stripped off the previous paint with a few applications of Citristrip. The primer remained completely intact which leads me to believe it is maybe some sort of factory powder coat or something that is impervious to strippers; either way its fine being on there - saves me from having to prime.

My question is, what type of paint should I use on the door? I hadn't really thought about it until I saw this video by TOH (https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-paint-exterior-metal-door) suggesting the use of DTM or direct to metal paint.

Is this required? Will the primer effect this? When I think of direct to metal I think completely bare silver metal. In the video it is shown going over what I believe to be a similar finish to what I have after stripping.

Note: it seemed like the paint that was on the door before was latex-based given the way it came off (like peeling off a face mask/not in chips); held up rather well. But I'm not paint expert - all paints may strip off similarly.


texts:
I just gutted out my bathroom in the basement and the studs on the wall between the bathroom and the basement kitchen are not plumb. The wall itself is but the intermediate studs within the wall are not
Is this something I can/should fix?
The perspective (this is part of a pano picture is distorting the image but you can still see how bad those studs are (the wall with no plastic on it

Update:
that wall will receive a floating vanity, plumbing and the sink.
It will be a one sink though


texts: How to direct connect 1-1/4 tailpiece to 1-3/8 vessel sink drain threads

texts:
I got a new drain for my vessel sink. The style is what is shown here:

The tailpiece that came with the drain is too short (4-inches). I need at least 6-inch. Unfortunately, the original tailpiece didn't have a separate nut—it was somehow welded/manufactured as part of the pipe. So when I bought a new flanged tailpiece, I needed a nut to attach it to the drain.
The tailpiece is 1-1/4 inch, outer diameter. The threads are 1-3/8 inch outer dimension.
I bought a 1-1/4 inch slip nut hoping it would fit (it was advertised as 1-1/4 x 1-1/4), and it does fit the tailpiece, but unfortunately the thread diameter is much too wide to attach onto the drain threads (inner diameter of the slip nut threads is 1-1/2 inch).
I've been researching a lot and haven't found anything that appears to be what I need. Is there any nut that seems to fit 1-1/4 inch pipe but has 1-3/8 inch threads? I also can't find any tailpieces that are similar to mine but longer.


texts: Securing heavy steel shelving unit (sitting on floor) to walls (earthquake prep)

texts:
I'm doing earthquake preparations. I want to secure two large, heavy, freestanding shelving units that sit on the garage floor to the adjacent walls.
The shelves are pretty thick steel (with particle board shelves), so they're very heavy and large--guessing about 7-feet tall and about 7 feet long when assembled. About 20 inches deep. (The unit sits about 2-3 inches from the wall because of a protruding foundation that runs the entire periphery of the garage along the floor.)
We live in a condo apartment building with thicker drywall than I'm used to seeing and also steel 2x4s. I don't trust the 2x's alone to secure the units and I'm not sure about the drywall.
That said, my thought is to use a vertical 10" length of plumbers tape in two places, wrapping over the steel rim of the top shelf (between frame and wooden shelf), and secure each end of the tape to the drywall with a heavy-duty anchor, one above the shelf frame and one below, plus washers between screw heads and tape. (I'm NOT planning to anchor into the steel framing, just the drywall.)
**So two questions...

I'm I trusting the drywall too much here? Should I be anchoring to the metal framing?

If my plan is good enough, What size and kind of anchors would you recommend to attach the tape to the drywall...would molly bolts be enough or would you suggest using toggle bolts?

Apologies for the long question. I think you may need that level of detail.
Thank you!
Bill


texts: How do I derate for 2 dryer circuits in one conduit?

texts:
I understand the derating of (4-6 current carrying conductors)80%X 40A for the 90 deg wire I’m using for 2ea 240V 30A dryer circuits in one 3/4” EMT conduit.  My questions are:
Are my neutrals counted as current carrying? And is there anything else to consider for calculating or derating for my wire size or conduit fill? I plan to use 10awg THHN.


texts: I partly re-painted the wall using latex paint (Rust Oleum-Ultra Cover Multi-Purpose Gloss Brush-On Paint) due to some scratches on the wall, but I failed to match the color. I was wondering if it was possible to get rid of the new paint.


texts: Are CAT 5 sockets compatible with CAT 7 cable?

texts:
I am planning to add Ethernet wiring to my house (semi-detached three-storey town house). I will be using this network to connect several (4-6) computers together in a typical (geek) home setting.

I have worked out the topology and most of the components, but there is one I am stuck on: the sockets. The quote I received from the electrician includes Cat 7 cables (probably overkill, but the difference in price to Cat 6 was minimal) and Cat 5 (RJ-45) sockets. I have a fairly good handle on Cat 5 / 6 / 7 cables, but the sockets have me stumped:

What does the Category (Cat) of an Ethernet socket signify?
If I connect Cat 5 sockets to Cat 7 cables, will I be limited to "Cat 5" speeds? Is the difference even likely to be noticeable in a home network?
My electrician claims that Cat 6 or Cat 7 sockets are very rare and almost never used. Is this the case? Some Googling has turned up the GG45 socket, which seems to be a backwards-compatible (with RJ-45) socket for Cat 7 cables - is this what I should be looking for? Or can I replace my Cat 5 sockets with Cat 7 sockets at a later date?

I'm still trying to get my head around this, so I apologise for the somewhat confusing questions, and would be most grateful if anyone can point me onto the correct path!


texts: Can 2 wires of a higher gauge be used in place of 1 wire with a lower gauge?

texts: I need to wire a 220v 55 amp circuit in the attic for a new HVAC system.  I would normally run a single 6 gauge wire to handle the 55 amps.  However, I already have 2 10 gauge wires run to the attic.  Can I connect the 2 10 gauge wires together at both the MSP and the box in the attic and protect it with a 55 amp breaker and have it function the same way as a single 6 gauge wire?


texts:
For the life of me, I can't figure out how to remove the door knob/handle pictured below. I've poked in just about every hole I can find to look for a release mechanism on both the handle and knob sides. Nothing has worked. It's corroded as hell, so I'm not sure if that's the issue or not.

Any thoughts?


texts: How quick do tree roots re-clog the sewer drain after snaking?

texts:
My sewer drain got clogged around September last year. I called in a plumber, he ran a snake through the main sewer out. No more clog. He said it was the roots of the 30ft Maple tree or the 30ft Spruce tree in my front lawn.

It's mid-July now and the trees are active again, and I started to hear some gurgling/bubbling in my basement floor drain again. I'm worried that by August or September, it's gonna be fully clogged again and the basement drain will start to overflow.

Do tree roots grow that quickly in my sewer drain pipes? If so, that means I have to snake it once every year?


texts: Why do some light fixtures use multiple bulbs?

texts:
I've never really given much thought to this until recently. Why would I want to put multiple bulbs into a single fixture?

Every bulbs burns at a specific brightness. Putting more bulbs next to each other won't make the light brighter. Or will it?

So what does it actually do? Obviously, it will spread out light at a larger area, but how much are you actually achieving if the bulbs are so close together as they are with this fixture?

The question came up because I'm equipping multiple rooms with LIFX bulbs. When I spend that kind of money, I'd like to know that I'm actually achieving something by putting multiple bulbs right next to each other.


texts: Identifying three wires for two bulb fixture

texts: I live in eastern Europe, and I have a system where a double light switch controls two bulbs via a 3 wire ceiling fixture (my understanding is that two Live wires and a common Neutral wire). I want to replace my ceiling lamp, but there's a problem: the wires coming out from the ceiling aren't color coded, so I have 3 wires of the same color. How would I be able to find out which is which and how to connect my new lamp? Note that I have a voltage tester and a multimeter at my disposal. Thanks.


texts: Shelving units anchored to drywall and metal studs - Load Bearing and Safety Concerns

texts:
We are interested in purchasing a residence that has a workshop attached to it. The owner has erected metal shelving units like those shown in the attached photos. The shelving units are anchored to the drywall and metal studs.

There is no load bearing information attached to the shelving units. If we left the shelving in place and accidentally put too much weight on it, it could buckle the metal studs and fall down. If that scenario occurred, that could result in damage and personal injury.

If we have the owner remove it, repair and repaint the drywall, then there would be no future hazard or liability to anyone. If we needed shelving in the future, we could go and purchase and know what the load bearing capacity is and have professionally installed.

What steps should we take or how could we assess if these shelving units were installed properly and safely?


texts: How to tell that projector needs bulb replacement?

texts:
I have an NEC projector which I estimate to have been used pretty close to the 2000-2500 hours, which is approximately the lifetime of a bulb.

As of late, light dots are beginning to appear on the projection in increasing numbers.  First there were 3-4, now about two dozen.  It kind of looks like a celestial constellation.

Is this is a sign that I need a bulb replacement or could it be a different problem?


texts: How can I add 100 amp electrical service to a shop?

texts: I am going to wire my shop and want ot run #2 copper to a 100amp breaker panel. I really do not have the space in the 200 amp panel in the house, my question - is there a way to pull this wire off the service entrance straight to the shop, and does that require another meter base or what?


texts: Why are the shingles blowing off my year-old home?

texts:
My house is new construction and approaching its one year warranty anniversary mid April.

The house has its back to a cornfield where it gets pretty windy.. i think the highest this year way 65mph.. a couple times. These are 3 tab asphalt shingles not architectural ones.

I have had a few occurances after they have set on a hot day with some pieces of shingles blowing off here and there.

When these were installed, it was around Feburary of 2016, so they didn't correctly ser until April or May.. we had a few instances where they blew off badly from wind because they were flopping around before setting. They were corrected before move in.

So far the builder says the roof spot repairs fall under the one year warranty.. after that i am on my own per them, but clearly im fighting it.

When these were installed in winter, were they supposed to be manually sealed or glued in anyway to prevent what happened during cold months?

Below are a few pictures of the shingles blowing in the wind after first installed, and recently with a few missing shingles. Could these shingles be a side effect from improper installation? Or just not able to withstand the wind.. if the latter, well what to i do other than spot trear shingles blowing off every year?


texts: How to fix leak at PVC/galvanized stubout

texts: When everything under my bathroom sink fell off, I installed a new metal tailpiece, then went PVC with trap and drain extension, which slips inside a 60+ year old galvanized(?) drain stubout, the problem area.  I have tried a variety of washers with different profiles, but they all leak. The closest I got was when I whittled down a washer I had left over from an adapter kit, and had a drip every five seconds. Tightening the nut turned the drip into a stream.  What really frustrates me is that I can see that the drainpipe in the wall is lower than the floor of the stubout, so water should want to drain instead of backing up and dripping.  Any suggestions, including cheats?


texts: Can I paint over a stain on a laminated cabinet?

texts: I got a stain on my bathroom cabinet that won't come out.  It is a laminated wall cabinet.  Can I paint over this?


texts: Do I really need an air conditioner filter?

texts:
Do my AC air intake vents really need air filters?
Is there any downside to removing them? Like are the blowers expecting a certain level of resistance from the filters in order to work properly?
Could I damage the blower or the AC unit by not having a filter installed?
I really want the least amount of resistance in order to cool the house as fast as possible during these hot summer days.


texts: Remove blower wheel that's rusted on to motor shaft

texts:
The blower motor on my air conditioner is shot & needs to be replaced. I've already identified and ordered the replacement motor. The problem is, the old motor's shaft is seemingly FUSED onto the blower wheel itself (Carrier/Bryant LA22LA108) by rust.

I'd really hate to buy a new blower wheel, too... they're not cheap ($125+) and the old one appears to be fine (aside from being inseparably-fused onto the old motor by rust).

Is there any reasonably straightforward way to get them separated without damaging the wheel so badly it ends up having to be replaced anyway? Maybe some semi-magic chemical available from Home Depot/Lowes (or at least a well-stocked Ace Hardware or some other store likely to exist in South Florida) that quickly eats through rust without doing too much damage to the as-yet unrusted steel?

I contemplated trying to cut away the motor shaft & drill it out from the inside until it falls away from the wheel's hole, but I have a hunch that the motor shaft is superhardened steel that won't cut easily.


texts: Our home A/C unit makes several short (~5 seconds) humming noises before actually starting up. I was wondering if this is normal? It works fine otherwise and it usually only does it a couple of times before startup.


texts: How do I render over a DPC (damp proof course) Fragmented brick work to be covered

texts:
All I have seen comments that this shouldn't be done and I would agree but I have a similar issue to one of the other poster. When the render has been removed some of the brick work has also fragmented which is unsightly so I need to cover this some how without bridging the DPC.
@MikePerry suggested using Render Stop beads above and below, but can I render inbetween these beads or do I need to leave a gap which in itself could be unsightly?
Hopefully my attached image will show what I mean if it is not already clear? Appreciate the feedback?


texts: Is there a technique on how to remove aluminum soffit without damaging it?

texts:
I Need to remove some existing  sofit so I can  get access to install an electrical outlet  for a motorized awning  . The sofit is 18 inches wide .
Is there a  technique  or  tool that  will allow me to remove this without damaging  it ?


texts: So my disposal went bad and I replaced it. When doing so discovered that the drain pipe was pretty clogged and Im guessing that was related to the drain and disposal outlet being the same. Whats odd is while it was draining fine, with the new one installed it does not drain at all unless you run the disposal. So the answer seems pretty obvious but I just want to confirm my options. I would need to either need to open the wall and make the Y lower or get a sink that is not as deep? The discharge tube it almost horizontal which even though its not ideal thats how the old one was. Would it help at all if it went straight down and than lower the trap or is that just going to create more room for standing water.


texts: Is it OK to leave an in-ground sprinkler "winterized" all summer?

texts:
My parents have an in-ground sprinkler system. It was winterized last fall.

My father passed away and my mother is thinking of just not using it this year.

We're wondering if leaving it "winterized" until next spring (1 year from now) would do any damage to it.


texts: How do I lift this with three beams? I would like to put in 8 inch round pilings at the end of the beams and lift it on top of those. What can I use as beams? What size? Steel or wood? What about flitch beams


texts: Smoke alarms go off in the middle of the night for no apparent reason and then is fine

texts:
Tonight at about 2 AM my wife and I were awakened by our fire alarm system going off in full alarm mode. I quickly jumped up and pressed the button to reset the system and they all stopped. We checked the house and everything was fine. We had the same thing happen about a year ago, again in the middle of the night.

Our house is almost 3 years old. We have 8 fire detectors and one carbon monoxide detector. The carbon monoxide detector is in the basement near the furnace. The are all hard wired together and have battery backups.

Is this normal? Should I be concerned? Do I need it checked by a pro? What may be the cause? Are we haunted?


texts: So i installed a new sink and faucet even shut off valves and lines.  But when i went to turn on faucet it only dribbles out water. I turned the water off at the water heater and i know some times it can take a few mins to build up the pressure.  But everywhere else has good pressure.  I even took off the line and turned the shut off to check pressure it was fine.  I then got different lines but still no luck.  Any suggestions?


texts: Is there anything wrong with leaving toilet tank below waterline?

texts: In troubleshooting a problem with recurring flushing (turned out to be a worn out flapper) I lowered the tank water level to about an inch below what the manufacturer marked as the waterline. Flushing seems to work fine - plenty of force, refills, fine and the flapper is fixed. I'd like to conserve water by leaving the water line where it is now, but will I be causing some kind of problem if I do?


texts: Can I extend sump pump outlet with elbow outside the house?

texts:
My house has a sump pump that rarely turns on (maybe once a year).

The sketch below shows the current outlet setup (blue line). The outlet at the house is only about 8" above grade. In winter, when there is snow on the ground, the final exit point can be buried in snow and I am not confident the pump would work properly if that's when it needed to turn on.

To address this, I would like to raise the final outlet from current 2" to about 18" (red line on sketch). Can I safely achieve this by: 1) cutting the current outlet, 2) adding an elbow 3) running a short vertical?

I live in Toronto, where winters get well below freezing, so my primary concern is standing water that will freeze the pipe solid.

This thread seems to describe a similar situation, but I think the idea there was the put the vertical riser at the end of the outlet (in the ditch area). It mentions that freezing concerns can be addressed by drilling a small drain hole in the elbow. Is that right?

For my proposed setup, even though it's a small hole, I am not sure it's a great idea to drain anything at the foundation line. So maybe I'd put the elbow at the front of the porch instead? But then I'd have the 4' horizontal pipe effectively need to drain out of that small hole?

I guess I am asking for some advice on the best way to deal with this situation. Ideally without having to relocate the outlet hole in the house foundation.


texts: Repair of a split on a plastic water tank

texts:
My shamba man cut the water tank with a panga at the lower part, the tank is full of water.
My son tried to stop the leakage by forcing in the split some polythene papers but the leakage is still much.

How do I get it repaired, urgently??


texts: How do I fix an exterior door knob that will unlock but not turn?

texts:
My back door (which is only two years old) has a door knob that recently suddenly stopped turning. I can lock and unlock it, but it just won't turn. Here's a picture of the inside of the door knob:

The very center bit is the lock mechanism, and I can turn it (locking and unlocking it) easily with a hex key. The half-circle immediately next to it appears to me to be the mechanism for opening the door — I could be wrong about that, though. It will not budge. The only two options I can see now are:

taking the door off its hinges so that I can completely remove the lock set and possibly replace it with a new one; or
calling a lock smith.

I'm more inclined to go with the latter than the former. Any other suggestions?


texts: What is the proper garbage disposal/recycle process?

texts:
It has always been a problem for me since I moved from Russia to separate my stuff into compost/recycle/garbage cans by material.

I find it to difficult and ineffective to memorize where each particular thing goes. I need a list of general principles that would allow me to make the separation quick and simple. How do I define whether something is okay to compost or recycle?

By now I used the following process. If something is organic and can rot it goes into the compost can. If it's made of paper or plastic or glass or metal or their combination it goes into recycle can. This would not let me clearly define, when an object is sent to the garbage can. I can see how these rules are incomplete and erroneous.

I also don't know if I can use a single plastic bag to wrap all the compostables. Should I use paper bags instead or maybe some special biodegradable plasic ones?

P.S. I moved from Russia to the US relatively recently and many aspects of life differ a lot. That's definitely not the last question about how are the things done here.


texts: Turning an unneeded outlet into a light switch to power LED lights

texts:
I would like to turn an outlet into a light switch to control I light fixture at another outlet in the wall at another location. I already installed the new outlet (that I'd like to have power when I turn on my new light switch) and ran new cable from this location to the socket I'd like to turn into a switch. Hope that doesn't sound too confusing.
My question has to do with the wiring. I already fished my wiring through the necessary spaces and I just need to know how to connect it all correctly. Would I disconnect the wiring at the outlet and then use that as my power source and wire it in this way I outlined below?
Turn power off at circuit breaker panel first, of course.
Black - hot from power source to light switch
Black - from cable leading to electrical box to light switch.
White - neutral from power source to white cable connecting to electrical box
Green/ground to green/ground


texts: Why am I still getting icicles after blowing insulation?

texts: I just had insulation blown in last year hoping I would get rid of the icicles forming and dripping all over my front stairs, I also have gutter caps on. Of note, the roofer two years ago put a metal right angled guard if front of the opening of the house about a foot from the lip of the roof, I feel like this has contributed to issues. I guess my next step would to get better ventilation. Any suggestions as what else it could be?


texts: Is it safe to use dishes that have had turpentine on them?

texts: A rag that had turpentine on it was rinsed off in my kitchen sink that had dishes in it. If I wash the dishes with soap and water will they be safe to use? Should I just throw out the dishes? I don’t want to be over dramatic but I also want to be safe. Thanks!


texts: Is it ok to seal the the outside rail of an in-wall AC/heater in the winter?

texts: I have an Amana in-wall AC/Heater. In the winter I feel that it creates a draft and allows cool air to sneak in. I'm thinking of taking some heavy duty plastic to the outside rail. Would this impact the heating function of the AC. And if it's possible what's the best material to use and tape that hold outside ?  Pic of the opening below:


texts: Where to go to get objective brand recommendatons?

texts:
I understand that requests for brand recommendations is forbidden on this site.

Are there websites that have independent, objective evaluations of the type of building supplies typically found in hardware stores, paint shops, and lumber yards?


texts: Fix single hung window glass that is cracked

texts:
My question is somewhat similar to this question - How can I fix a window with cracked glass?. The difference is that my window is single hung. The windows are double pane and the inside pane has a big crack. I've attached two pictures. One shows part of the crack. The other shows what the space between the two panes looks like, it's pretty rough. Is there a way for me to fix the window? Or is it at the point where I'd be better off just replacing the whole thing? Given what I have read elsewhere I'm not sure it's possible to remove the top sash, which means I might have to replace the entire window?

Thanks for any info, I really appreciate it.


texts: Why is my switch controlled receptacle always on?

texts:
I replaced the outlets and switches in a room.  One outlet now has constant power, the switch no longer turns the power on and off (to control a lamp for example) as it originally did.

For troubleshooting thus far I have reattached all connections just as they were on the previous outlet and switch.

The red and black wires are hot (left side of switch and outlet), on the right side of the outlet there is a white neutral? wire and a ground, on the right side of the switch there is simply a ground (FYI: the previous switch did not have a ground but the replacement switch had one, I don't think this would be the issue though).

Any ideas on what could be the issue for now having constant power to the outlet with no ability to control with the switch?

Here are images to assist:
1 and 2 (right and left of the switch, respectively)
3 and 4 (right and left of the outlet, respectively)


texts: Adaptor for 6-awg wire to wire receptable

texts: I need to wire in a receptacle for a sump pump,115v, 15 amp. The run from the fuse box to the receptacle is 200' so #6-2 wire was used. The #6 wire is too thick for the terminals. What do I us to make this work??


texts: I have a faulty phone wall socket which I think needs replacing. I am not very familiar with this type of technology so I don't know what I need. I have attached a pic of the one I have now. The problem is that the wire going into it doesn't click in to place, it sort of comes back out naturally. It was held in by a big wooden speaker but that no longer seems to work. I can get a dial tone if I push it in with all my force but that's not really a suitable solution. Any help is much appreciated.


texts:
I'm fixing stucco on an old house and it appears as though they literally just added stucco onto cement board with asphalt kraft paper in between. I have to remove a piece to add in new cement board that broke on the back. Can I just stucco directly onto the cement board without a mesh? I didn't know this was possible, but apparently the builders did it! Also, can I forgo the paper? It doesn't seem to be doing much if anything at all - water doesn't sit on this surface but rather beads off as it is hanging (the area in question is a soffit).

http://www.imgur.com/fj2BGHg crude drawing :)


texts: I am trying to connect my house to the current meter pole that is 300 feet away I am going to buy 250kcmil for the load conductors. I know that I can save some money by buying a smaller size ground wire. I cant find a calculator to figure it out. What would be the minimum size wire that I could get for the ground wire for a 300' run?


texts:
I’m assuming it’s an older model Hampton Bay ceiling fan but I bought an e12 bulb and it doesn’t fit, so now I need a converter!
Please help I’m going crazy trying to find out the size.

And, here's a video: https://imgur.com/zzSgpOi


texts: How do I replace the cartridge on a Delta faucet?

texts:
I am trying to replace the cartridge, but there appears to be a cover that I need to remove first, but I can't open it.

The red arrow in the picture (sorry about the bad quality) is the piece I'm talking about, I've tried using a wrench, but I don't want to use too much pressure lest I break something. Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks


texts: Seal a 1in drilled hole in concrete block

texts:
I need to drill a 1 inch hole in a basement foundation block wall to pass a 1/2 emt conduit through.   How do I seal the gap afterwards to pass inspection,  prevent mice, insects, rain and drafts.

Keep in mind it's winter in Minnesota, so any compound needs to be able to be applied in cold conditions.

Do I simply use duct sealer or something more solid.


texts: convert three way circuit to two single pole circuits

texts: I have two three way switches within arms reach of each other for the overhead lamp in a small hallway.  I want to take them out and replace them with single poles the second to operate under cabinet lighting.  I intend to use one of the travelers for the switched hot to the overhead and the other to extend the hot lead to the switch in the other box.  Will that be a problem?


texts: Remove 1.5” spa pipe fitting from PVC pipe WITHOUT damaging pipe

texts: Have a 1.5” compression collar for a spa circulation pump.  Whoever installed it crushed the shoulder behind the “O” ring.  Need to remove it without having to buy a “pipe parana” for $140.  Have to remove the fitting WITHOUT damaging the pipe...no room for error, or re-doing other fittings.  Help?


texts: Install a 4x4 between two walls to hang heavy bag

texts:
I want to install a 100 lbs heavy bag in my finished garage. I don't want to cut into my ceiling and also my daughter's room is directly above the garage so I'd rather not disturb her.
I was wondering if I could put a 4x4 between the two walls (which are just over 10 feet apart), supported on each side by 2x4s screwed into two studs. Then I could hang the bag from this 4x4 with an eye bolt.
Is this workable??


texts:
I noticed my furnace sweating a couple days ago.  It's hot and humid where I live so I was only mildly concerned.  It was a high of 74F today with humidity around 70% which is, relatively, nothing.  My thermostat keeps the house around 72F.

Lately, I've noticed that my A/C is running 90% of the time (a lot), but chalked it up to this being the hottest month.

Side of Furnace with Sweat Drops

Good Size Water Trail on Floor

Two Small Streams Coming from the Other Side

Condensation Runoff Line

It looks slightly kinked, but has been that way since before the summer.  I don't know what the blue tube is.

Just for Fun: This is How the Condensation Line Connects to the Main Sewer Line :D

Is this bad?  What could be causing this?

I've researched online and found some informal sources that say something in the airflow is being blocked/clogged somewhere...

Edit in Reply to @Tester101's Questions in the Comments:

The System as A Whole

At the bottom of that "V", where the grey and off-white metal meet, is where Picture #1 above was taken.

Inside the Upper Front Panel

I think this section only has to do with heating, but I don't know if you guys see anything useful.

The Rear Panel

It looks like I can unscrew that entire rear side, but I won't do that unless necessary.  There is also a smaller panel in the top of the photo.  Should I open that?


texts: Replacing ungrounded receptacle with grounded receptacle on metal box

texts: Bought a house built in 1928 (in Chicago area - everything original to the house is in metal boxes with armoured (BX) cable. Any newer work has EMT). All the wiring is the cloth wrapped wires and no ground wires. All receptacles are 2 prong. Inspector said you can find the first outlet in the circuit, put a GFCI on it, and then not worry about ground on anything else in the circuit. A multimeter says I have a strong 120 V from a hot wire to the box, so common sense tells me I can just skip the GFCI and put in a 3-prong outlet. I wouldn't even need a pigtail jumper ground because the green screw has continuity with the 10-32 screw and ears of the receptacle anyway, right? Am I missing anything?


texts: Do Knockdown texture walls and ceilings usually contain asbestos?

texts:
My girlfriend recently has asked me to undertake some DIY work around her house for her parents. Now if have a respirator that protects from any dust or airborne hazardous material. Problem I’m encountering is that I suspect due to the age of the house (1955) that the textured walls will have asbestos. I’ve looked across different websites and there’s absolutely no information about asbestos being used in knockdown textured walls. Even google thinks I mean popcorn texture. I know what companies mainly used it but none mentioned Knockdown texture. Can someone with a bit more experience with this possibly help me out this this and is there a reason no one mentions Knockdown texture walls in regards to containing asbestos and just mentions popcorn ceilings?

Kind regards
Chris


texts:
So I'm working on a project where I'm wanting to take several 18V ryobi battery packs, put them in parallel to increase the capacity, and then use that to power my project. I think this should be fairly easily done, but my problem is when I want to recharge them, I don't want to disconnect them and charge them individually. Would it be alright to just take a single battery charger, and connect it to all of the battery packs in parallel? I wasn't sure if this would damage anything or not. I'm sure it would take longer to charge, but i'm okay with that.

Anyways, just thought I'd ask people that would know more about this than I would. Thanks!


texts: Can I run my attic HVAC/Furance without an Air Cleaner/Purifier Filter

texts:
I have an Aprilaire 1410 air purifier attached to my attic HVAC/furnace.
Does the air purifier serve the same purpose as a typical air filter in a HVAC/furnace or is it simply additional filtering?  Can I run my heat without the purifier filter, temporarily until the proper part gets there?
Or will a typical store bought filter work in place of the Aprilaire accordion style filter?


texts: How can I attach modern fixture to knob & tube wiring?

texts:
I have a modern external light fixture that needs to be attached to an existing exterior electrical 'box'. The older parts of the house have knob & tube wiring and there is evidence of gas plumbing for lighting before the knob & tube was installed. Here, i think but am not certain, it appears as if the knob & tube comes into a 'box' around an old gas line (see photo) but I may be mistaken.

The instructions say to attach:

white to white
black to black
exposed wire to ground

but all i have are two old wires wrapped in what appears to be cloth. the cloth has become quite brittle.

So, how does one go about, safely, installing the new fixture?

Edit: More pictures as requested:


texts: How to repair "textured" ceiling texture

texts:
I am in the process of making small improvements around the house prior to our starting to rent it out.  A few months ago a bit of the paint on a small part of the ceiling in our master bedroom fell off.  Originally due to the coloration (slightly yellow) around where the paint fell, I was worried about water damage.  I didn't feel any moisture, so wrote that off (hopefully justifiably).

Close up:

Full texture:

Either way, the paint falling off has not progressed any further, but I'd like to repair the damage, but am unsure how to proceed.  The room where the paint fell is the master bedroom, and as such, the largest room in the house.  Additionally, all of the rooms in the house have the same texture so I would really prefer not to remove the texture completely.

Does anyone have any idea how to reproduce this texture?  It seems like it was just a shift in the drywall, as it seems like there's a seam right where the paint fell.  I don't know the first thing about doing a textured ceiling, so help is very appreciated.

EDIT:

roofing issue that was causing the leak has been corrected - still unsure how to repair the "texture" on the ceiling.  It looks different than the popcorn texture, but not sure how to go about recreating it.


texts: WR outlets; is it trying to tell you which way is up?

texts:
I know about this question (I posted an answer to it), but this one's a little more specific.

Consider a weather-resistant outlet, like the ones below:

Notice the first picture has the plug in what most of us would call "right-side-up" orientation; the blades are above the ground pin and it looks like a face. However, the blue WR logo is upside-down when you look at it this way. (It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the TR logos between the blade slots are oriented so that the logo for the receptacle on top of the assembly is right-side up either way.)

The second picture shows a similar plug, oriented so the blue WR label is right-side-up. This places the ground pin above the current-carrying blades. That got me thinking that this was done for a reason, perhaps to get us to mount the plug "upside-down", contrary to most folks' sensibilities, in order to provide the best weather resistance. It makes a certain amount of sense; a plug mounted this way that then gets rained on would have water contact the ground pin or conductors first, and then drip down to one of the powered legs, causing a short to ground that trips the breaker and is somewhat less likely to try to conduct through you.

Are the manufacturers trying to tell us something? Is it preferable, regardless of how you would normally orient a non-WR outlet, to install a WR outlet ground-pin up?


texts:
The installation specs for my cooktop read as below:

-Connected Load (kW Rating) @ 240 / 208 Volts = 7.2 / 6.2 kW

-Amps @ 240 / 208 Volts = 35.0 / 35.1 Amps

-Recommended Circuit Breaker – 30 Amps

The circuit I have available is on a 240v 40 amp breaker running 8 AWG wire.

First, it's a little strange that the manufacturer lists a 35 amp draw and recommends a 30 amp breaker. I'm guessing that has something to do with the NEC 220.55 Demand Factors table. But according to the table 1 appliance at 8,000 watts divided by 240v = 33.3 amps. I'm stumped there.

Second, it would seem to me that since the cooktop leads will be hardwired in a junction box, there wouldn't be a plug compatibility issue. Then the only problem might be the gauge of the wiring coming out of the cooktop provided by the manufacturer?

Finally, in a separate manufacturer specs doc lists the "Minimum circuit required" as 30 amp... which makes me think that a 40 amp circuit would be fine even though the other doc "recommends" a 30 amp circuit.


texts:
I am in the process of hanging drywall in my basement.
The builder actually framed my perimeter walls and included batt insulation.
as I started looking at the framing I noticed the studs were at 24" OC but when measuring they were not. Moreover, the studs were are so crooked there is no possible way a person hanging drywall could do a decent job.
So as I started hanging the drywall the 8' piece was just short of the next stud so I had to stack more 2X4s so I don't have to cut the drywall.
Not sure why the framers dont take into account nominal drywall lengths.
So, with all my complaining out of the way are there any tips out there for drywall DYI people when they come across this scenario?
Some boards were so bowed I had to cut them in half and then shim the cut to make the boards straight.


texts: How can I remove humidity from a room without a dehumidifier?

texts:
I've noticed a problem in my apartment that returns every winter - I get mold around the windows. This year the cold weather came earlier than usual and the mold appeared quickly in great amounts, so I am looking for a way to at least reduce the thickness of it.
My guess that the molds cause is the humid air would be the fact that very often I can see a condensation on the window, and, since the windows are plastic ones, I guess they don't "breathe" like the wooden ones would.
I've heard about putting bowls of salt around by the windows that would attract the moisture, but some suggest other substances like silica gel since they absorb the moisture better. Problems I see with getting silica gel are that I'm not sure where to get it for starters, am not sure about the price - whether it wouldn't be too pricy and, since I own a cat, I don't want the little adventurer to try out new things to eat - how would I store it so it would do it's job and not harm my pet.

I mentioned "without a dehumidifier" in my question title because buying one just isn't in my budget at the moment, so I'm looking for some temporary solutions right now.
Any tips gladly appreciated.


texts: Does facing fiberglass batts matter when installing from attic?

texts:
I would like to supplement some existing old woolly pellet insulation in my attic using 6" thick fiberglass batts. Since the size I need seems to only come faced, should I:

Face it up (facing the roof, opposite what it would be if I were installing it from the room below on its ceiling) and be able to staple it to joists, or
Face it down and not staple it, or
Peel the paper off?


texts: How can I repair the damage to this wood floor?

texts:
We just moved into a new house, and the flooring in the entrance and kitchen is a little beat up.  I am not sure if it is hardwood or laminate flooring.

There are some spare boards in the attic that are about 3/4" thick - they do not have a wood-looking layer on them, so I suspect they are not laminate.  The spares are much lighter in color than the ones on the floor.

Here is a picture of the damage:

This is from the entrance where there are some dings and chips.  The floor in the kitchen has some of the shiny parts flaking off, but the wood itself doesn't appear to be damaged too much.

Is there a way to repair this type of damage?  Is there something I can do to maintain and protect the non-damaged boards?

Like I said, I do have spares, but since I have no flooring experience I would probably have to hire someone to replace the damaged boards.


texts: Where can I find a replacement limit switch for my furnace?

texts:
I had an issue with my furnace. The Fan was running constantly and wouldn't turn off and the heat would not start. Through some research I discovered this was likely due to a fault limit switch in my furnace.
I don't have the exact model of my furnace but it is a Lennox G20/G20R/G23/G26 Elite series with Honeywell VR8200 controls.
I found the circuit, found a limit switch that I thought was the culprit, part number 18J3701 but it completely passed all testing I did on it. I followed the circuit more and found another limit switch and identified it as the culprit. To be clear, that P/N switch was NOT the culprit, it was in the air chamber and had a set point of 205 degrees F and reset point of 175 degrees F. I had replacement parts found and was ready to order but then, testing passed.
The second switch (not working) was right by the burner and I cannot find any information on it. I checked the burner and heat exchanger and surrounding parts and I did not see any damage or evidence of overheating, so I'm sure it's just a switch failure and nothing more. The switch is showing as an open circuit with my multimeter and when I remove the switch from the circuit and only have the other switch in place, the furnace works fine. Please note that I only did that as a test. I verified a couple cycles of the furnace, then I turned everything off. I won't take chances letting it run without the switch. Right now I have the breaker to the furnace OFF, as I don't want it running without all the safety mechanisms in place.
It has black plastic packaging and faint numbering on the side "6063 J9815" where I can I find a replacement for this? I cannot find any results in Google, Digikey, or Mouser. Not sure what other sites I could check.  I found a similar switch at this URL: https://www.supplyhouse.com/AO-Smith-100074412-High-Limit-Switch?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIperD47346wIVCNbACh3ZqwUQEAQYBiABEgLXcfD_BwE but since I don't know the specifications, I don't know if this one will work or not - I don't know if it will trip at the right temperature. Obviously, I don't want to take chances, I want to be sure of what I get, but finances are really tight and I can't afford a maintenance visit right now.


texts: 20 year old home with ceiling cracks getting worse

texts:
I have a Town-home that has these ceiling cracks that seem to get worse in the past 5 years. Please see attached. Do you think we need to worry? We got it inspected by a foundation expert 2 years ago(when the opening of the crack was half the current size) and he didn't raise any alarm and said it's common to have foundation settling.
Additionally, garage door seems to be getting stuck recently(right under this crack).
Please let me know your concerns.
-thanks


texts: Can I feed this new transformer/subpanel off two 120vac legs of the 480vac panel?

texts: I am putting in a 165amp 240vac 25kw electric-vehicle charger and, since the GE 480vac panel cannot accept a 175amp double-pole breaker, I must install a dry-type transformer to feed the new 175-200 amp subpanel and breaker(s). Can I feed this new subpanel from two legs of 120vac on the 480vac panel?


texts:
I've tried three replacement shower heads from the DIY store (to replace the one that broke, which unfortunately was thrown out by spouse).

I'd like one that makes a wide conical flow, so that my arms receive warm water while showering, without having to move from side to side when I'm standing under the shower.

Also, I'd like it to spray the water with a lot of force.  The shower heads I've tried so far only spray with force from very specific nozzles.  I'd like it to spray with force from all the nozzles.  That way, I'm hopeful the hot water would last for two people to shower one after the other.  The one that broke did fine, both in the pressure and the wide cone.

What descriptors should I look for, to find the right kind?


texts: Are all ungrounded >120v outlets now outlawed?

texts:
I understand that in 1996, NFPA outlawed the NEMA 10 series outlet for new work. This is an ungrounded outlet, which provides 120/240v split phase (hot-neutral-hot).

I wonder if the same is also true of its ungrounded brothers in multiphase: The NEMA 2 series, for 240v single phase.  The NEMA 11 series, which were used in 208/240v delta 3-phase.  And the NEMA 18 series, used typically in 208v wye 3-phase.  Are these also outlawed?

Of course, NEMA 1-15 remains universally common despite being ungrounded.

I guess what I'm asking is, did NFPA outlaw all >120v ungrounded outlets?  Or did they only single out NEMA 10 because of its frequent appearance in household circuits?


texts: I know That it is probably impossible but I used a drill bit that is too big and the screws come out when I put a triangle bracket on it plus a small amount of weight.  I am wall mounting a desk and the amount of wieght that the bracket is supporting is much more than the weight that pulled it out.  I have been thinking of using wood glue but heard that it can be madw worse a with the use of it.  I am wall mounting a desk so changing bracket height is a last resort.


texts:
Sometimes the source of a roof leaks is difficult to find.

The best approach that I've found for locating the leak is to have someone watch where the water is coming into the house (may be easiest if this can be done in an attic) and have a second person spray the roof with a hose. Spray first at lower elevations and keep spraying the same spot for at least a minute to give the water a chance to make it inside. If the water doesn't show up inside then work your way along the roof at the same elevation. Then work your way from the bottom to the top until water starts coming in. The source of the leak is likely close to the spot you're spraying or where you sprayed last.

What techniques have you found useful?


texts: New breaker and panel: What's the brown goo where they connect?

texts:
I'll be replacing my electrical panel soon and I noticed that the new breakers and panel have a brown goo on them where they connect to one another. I'm guessing it is lubricant .. similar to what goes in the aluminum wires but I rather make sure than end up with fireworks.

Should I leave the brown goo in place before I plug the breakers to the new panel or should I wipe it out? Thanks.


texts: Proper method to send wiring through the roof?

texts:
I'm planning on a security camera install. All of the connections will start from the 2nd floor and go to some cameras on exterior at the ground level. The 1st floor has a roofed deck that extends out from the main house. Because of this I'll either need to bring the wires through the 1st floor roof, or run on top to the edge (~7ft from the side of house).
What is the best way to send the wiring from the 2nd floor down to the ground level?
I might be using a conduit on the 2nd level, and then transition to exposed wires when under the covered deck.
Looking for suggestions on how to approach this other than putting a hole in the roof and ceiling.


texts: Adding a dimmer switch to a three way switch setup

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