texts:
I live in the ground floor flat of a converted Victorian House and have recently come across a rogue pipe that shoots water out sporadically into an external drain kind of like a toilet flush swoosh sound, but the water is clean. I have no idea where this is from or what it could be - Can anyone shed some light?
It is a white plastic pipe that comes from under the house (there is a basement, but it is tanked). I initially thought that it was noise from an upstairs toilet of a flat above, but saw it pump out with my own eyes today ( and subsequently make the drain at the side of the house overflow!)
I hope someone can help - thanks


texts: What are the "must do" tasks before winter hits?

texts: I've had my furnace serviced in time for winter, but what other things should I consider doing before the snow and the ice come?


texts:
I am in the process of adding subpanel. This question is a continuation from my previous question.

Can I do two 220V receptacles on a single 20A line?
The equipments will be drawing max 3A and 13A. Is it possible to both on a same line?
Can I also use 12/2 cable? or should I use 12/3?
Can these receptacles placed in a double outlet box?

P.S:

Top Image: 2 receptacles separated by a junction box and separately placed

Bottom Image: 2 receptacles in a same double housing


texts: How to drill a hole in brick with precision?

texts:
I have bought old cabinets which I would like to hang on a brick wall. I have marked the spots on the wall, but I find it very difficult to drill precisely, because the drill bit follows a path of least resistance.

What are the techniques and tools required to drill a hole with less than one millimeter between the actual hole and the mark ?


texts: Sump pump & ejector pump: can I (and should I) change single dedicated non-GFCI receptacle to a dual receptacle GFCI?

texts:
Moved into a new home about 6 months ago which had been gut rehabbed.

Our mechanical room has 2 pits, one for the sump pump and another for the ejector pump.

I was planning on installing a battery backup system to our sump pump when I made a few surprising discoveries.

neither the ejector pump or the sump pump were on GFCI receptacles.
while the sump pump and the ejector pump receptacles are on different circuit breakers, the ejector pump is using a single dedicated receptacle, while the sump is on a dual receptacle, sharing with our alarm system.

my impulse was to switch each receptacle to a dual receptacle GFCI outlet, but I became skittish after seeing the single dedicated outlet for the ejector pump.

from what I understand, GFCI receptacles should be standard for this room since, by definition, we're talking about water with risk of flooding and shock.

is there a particular reason the ejector has it's own dedicated outlet?
if not, can a single dedicated receptacle be easily converted to a dual GFCI?
if so, can the ejector pump and battery backup be on same dual GFCI outlet as I now have planned (with the sump remaining on it's own dual GFCI with the alarm, on a separate breaker)?

While I've never installed a GFCI plate before, I'm comfortable with very basic electrical and it seems pretty straightforward.  however, I don't want to get in over my head or be unaware of some important point about the single receptacle, and then be faced with flooding, sewage, electrical shock... and worse, angry wife.


texts: Replaced a large wooden gate with double wooden gate, hinge side is level on both gates, but sides where meet sag in opposite directions

texts: Because we had a large 8' x 6' wooden privacy fence gate that warped and sagged to such a great degree, I took it down and built two smaller gates, (6 x 3') to replace it.  The original posts that the gate was attached to were extremely warped and twisted so I also built a frame attached but independent to the old post that is square and level, for the new gate.  I placed three- 3" hinges on each gate. My problem is on the side the hinges are on is level but the side where the gates are to meet are misaligned. No matter what I do the gate on the north post aligns to the west and the gate on the south post aligns to the east. I have checked and it is not warped wood nor are the frames not square.  The hinges are placed level and aligned properly. I have tried turning the frames around, making sure all my joints are square, everyting I can think of but no matter what I try where the two gates meet the one on the north angles west and the one on the south angles east. Think of it as the gates where they meet are making an X where they should be making an "I"


texts: Why am I getting cold water at faucets near the end of a circulation loop?

texts:
We have a circulating pump for our hot water tank - the pump sits between the tank and the line going into the house.  The issue i'm facing is if the pump is not running, I get endless cold water to the bathrooms that are closest to the return side of the line/loop.

I am thinking the check valve is stuck in the open position, you can see in the picture below that there is some calcium buildup that came out of it at some point in the past.  When I suggested this to the guy at Lowes (he said he was a former plumber), he said it's not possible for water to go from a 3/4" line to a 1/2" line due to some kind of "pressure" reason (I couldn't remember his exact reason). He said the water should continue to flow in the loop in the same direction as always, even if the check valve is broke.  I asked what is the purpose of a check valve then, and he said high pressure buildup. He said I might have a slab leak somewhere (this made zero sense).

Hoping someone can confirm that if the check valve is indeed stuck in open position, and the pump is turned off, then it's possible that could explain why the hot water in the sinks and showers closest to the check-valve side of the line, is getting cold water.  If it is indeed the check valve, do I need to replace the whole thing, or can it be opened from the top to see if it can be freed up?


texts: How do I remove a stubborn exterior threshold?

texts: I Am trying to redo my threshold due to the fact that my floor has been raised like 2". I cannot find any screws and I have been working on it with a crow bar. I have been looking on line and the consensus is that the threshold is typically screwed down. IS it being held in by the door casing. I am going to have to cut it anyway but I wasn't sure how this strip is being held down.


texts: What should I do about a hole close to a plug that is too wide?

texts: I used spacking to fill a hole that is like really wide, but not that lengthy.  I painted it, then put more spacking on the hole. The hole is still noticeable. So like if I just keep putting more spacking, will it sooner or later look noramlish?


texts:
My little powder room has been such a headache, hoping someone here can shed some lights.  Little background of the house, built in 1909 on post and beam foundation with perimeter  of the house sits on linear( continuous footing) sometime 1920-30’s or earlier, then owner built 3ft x 23ft bump out that has cinderblock footing 2ft away from the original perimeter footing with 1ft cantilever.

When I opened the 3/4” thick solid diagonal subfloor, I see that the added joist are only 3ft and looks like there weren’t an adequate fastener attached at the beginning of 3ft added joists.  Because the powder room is about 6ft parallel to the joist, where added joist beginning is the highest point and each ends of the room is sloping down by 1/2” to 1”, planning on adding plywood to install tile, this current waviness is no go unless I address this issue, I’m willing to add 8ft added joist on the area to give itself enough back span so the tile deflection is high enough, this means also raise the beam,  I was hoping if I can just add longer joist and add shims on top of the joist so I don’t have to take recent earthquake Retrofit work done by a professional foundation company( has plywood up against to sill and post).  Or any suggestion on how to go about?  Thank you!


texts: i have chipped my kitchen cabinet door. Is there any way it can be repaired

texts:
I have chipped the kitchen cabinet door. The laminate is shown in the figure 1 along with the chipped door.

I am seeking advice for how to repair the chipped door.


texts: How can I clear a slow running kitchen drain?

texts:
My kitchen sink is draining slowly, even thought the U-bend is cleaner than a clean thing.

It seems to be the case there's a partial obstruction between the U-bend for and the inspection cover outside. As the only thing that feeds into this outside drain are the kitchen sink, dishwasher and overflow for a condensing boiler; and even though we're pretty obsessive about not letting fat or grease down there, I suspect there's a build up of detergent, and some fat.

If it were fully blocked, I'd happily get my plunger and give it a good going over, but as it's slow draining, and there are so many vents feeding into it, that's no use. I have tried snaking it, but that has only really ensured there's a 1/4 inch (out of a 1 3/4 inch plastic pipe) path for the first 6 feet - it doesn't feel like there's any really obstruction; Similarly, I'm able to push a hose pipe up from the inspection cover up towards the kitchen until it meets the point where the 1.75" pipe meets the 3" foul drain (I can hear the end of the hose tapping against the end). Any water jetted up from the outside flows away with no problem, and after a bit of work, is flowing clean.

I'm at a loss as to how to clear the rest though, so the drain runs clearly, and without backing up the overflow for the central heating and out into the cupboard under the sink.

Are there any options other than calling a plumber out, who may have a longer / larger bore snake?


texts: How do I figure out where a kitchen leak is coming from?

texts:
I have a leak in my kitchen that rears its ugly head whenever there is severe rain and wind. To the best of my knowledge, it has only happened twice. Obviously, I would like to fix this. In the process, it's breaking down some of the drywall.

This is what the damage looks like

My question is, how do I begin to find where the leak is occurring before I fix the drywall? If I need to hire a contractor, what specifically am I looking for?

Also, does the presence of a patch indicate that the drywall has been fixed before?


texts: Is it safe to install a sconce light box inside a return air space?

texts:
In my finished basement, the space between one section of studs is being used as a return air duct for my furnace and central air.

Here is a picture, looking up from the vent at the floor level:

On the left is a standard outlet box.

I would like to install a sconce light on the wall in this section.  I will use a remodel electrical box and the sconce light is of metal construction.  I know that wiring that passes through air ducts must be non-metallic, but beyond that I don't know if this is a safe idea.  I think it should be, since there is already an electrical box in this space, but I'm not sure how to know for sure.  Any advice?

The second question is the hole for the wire that will be drilled in the stud on the right.  Will that hole need to be sealed once the wire is through?


texts: Does a bathroom exhaust fan have to vent to the outside?

texts:
Is it normal and/or code compliant to have a bathroom exhaust fan venting to the attic?

I've seen this a couple times now, and the first time I saw this I thought it was very odd.

But I mentioned this to a couple people around here and they thought it was 'normal' for this area (I live in a part of southern California where it is rarely below freezing).


texts: Does a Daikin AC remember the settings when it was last turned on, or what the remote is set to on power-on?

texts:
This is a very specific question that I've been trying to wrap my head around and can't figure out.

I have a Daikin Air Conditioner that has a "human sensor" which automatically switches to "low-power" mode when it does not detect a human presence for 20 minutes in order to save energy in case you forget to turn it off.

When I set this feature using the standard remote control that comes with the unit, the icon for that feature lights up on the LCD screen of the remote.  That feature seems to be saved permanently because if I turn the air con off, the icon still appears on the remote's LCD screen, and when I turn it on again, the icon is still there.  So unless I turn that feature off, it stays permanently on, which is to be expected. The "Econo" mode feature does not do this, for example, and its icon turns off after you turn off the air con, so if you turn on the air con again and want "Econo" mode again, you have to press the button again.

Now, I need to get a Universal Remote for Air Cons for this unit, and was trying to figure out how I could use the Universal Remote to ONLY allow for "on/off" and "change in temperature", while leaving the "human sensor" permanently on.

So my question is this:  if I use the standard Daikin remote to turn (and leave permanently on) the "human sensor", but then use the Universal Remote to simply control the on/off and temperature setting, will the "human sensor" continue to stay activated, or will it be deactivated since the Universal Remote does not know how to send that particular signal?**


texts: Cut Hue Light Strip and connect pieces in parallel

texts:
is it possible to separate a hue light strip using heat like shown here and connect the pieces using Y-connectors in parallel?

I want to split a Light Strip and use just one piece per stair in my stairway, connecting them to a single bus. They should all be connected to the same controller to allow a smooth light scene. Obviously using one controller per stair is not optimal :)

Thanks for your ideas!

Update

The setup should look like this:

[CTRL]
  |
  |---[PIECE OF STRIP]
  |
  |---[PIECE OF STRIP]
  |
  |---[PIECE OF STRIP]
  |
  |---[PIECE OF STRIP]
  |

Will the controller be able to handle this?


texts: How can I install laminate flooring without removing base molding?

texts: I am looking for a suggestion about not removing my base molding and laying laminate under it. It will be much easier than removing because of risk of damage ,etc. , and I will put 1/4'' or 1/2'' corner round on top which I think looks good. Basically the molding is about 1/2'' thick. So I am wanting to go under that and 1/4'' from wall so how can I get that spacing and get it out after I get to the other side since it would be underneath ? I know I could just start it flush with molding since I am going to put round over on top but when I am hammering all the other pieces how do I keep it from sliding underneath and right against wall?


texts: Should I put insulation in a shower wall if it's NOT an exterior wall?

texts: I know that I should put insulation in a shower wall if it's an exterior wall, but what about if it's just an interior wall? Is there still a benefit to doing this?


texts: what type of guard rail is needed on an open part of a 5 tread stair

texts: I am putting a long continuos handrail along the closed wall of my stair but need to know what is required at the bottom where 5 steps are open on the other side?


texts: Framing half-wall in basement to full wall over exterior wall

texts:
Debating on whether this is something I can do or if I need to call in an pro. I have a basement room I'm looking to use as a theater room, and I need to finish a wall to the ceiling so I can hang a projector screen.  The top part in the picture is exterior wall, and the lower wall is 2x4 framing up to the top of the rim joist. There's a vapor barrier on the interior side of the lower wall, and the framing is right up against the concrete, no foam board in between. Standard fiberglass insulation in both.

My first thought was to just build a frame to finish off the top half, add some additional insulation, and hang some 5/8 drywall, but I assume I'd need to fill the air space behind this, and I'm not sure if I'd need to remove the drywall on the upper wall prior to doing so, or if replacing the lower wall and framing it to the ceiling would be considered the best practice in this situation. I've hung drywall and done some framing before, but not in a basement, and I'm concerned about creating some moisture issues.

Update: this is for a large 92" projector screen, so I need a flat surface to mount it.


texts: Why can I feel my seven pound cat walking across floor of my home?

texts:
The house is only 9 years old. (I am the second owner)   I know they settle but in the last year I can feel all movement across the floor- year ago I could barely feel anything but did notice that when someone walked across I could feel them go by.  But more recently the cat walking across to go to the chair I can feel that.  What is going on?  I know I should not feel the cat who is 7 lbs walking by or across the floor.
Split level home
9 years old
Minnesota location

Is anyone out there that can explain this?


texts: Recessed light is lighting dim and other stopped working

texts: I have four recessed lights controlled by one switch and one recessed controlled by another switch , all of the sudden the two lights stopped working out of four and the single recessed light started lighting very Dim. After couple of days one light started working from out of two failed lights but it is not bright as before and single recessed light still lighting Dim. Not sure whats wrong. Please assist how to troubleshoot the issue and let me know if you need any additional details. Thanks


texts: Is this cracking foundation under a jack post a problem that requires repair?

texts:
I am buying an already-built new home. I find this in the basement. The builder says it's okay, but I am really concerned. Is this really a big issue? What steps would be required to repair it?

This house is close to the retention pond. Is that the reason why the soil is getting soft?


texts: I want to use a sump pump to deliver water to a 50 gallon plastic drum that's 15' high. The 1 HP pump has a 1 1/4" outlet and I want to reduce it to 3/4" hose for convenience and storage. The drum is 150' from the lake. Will this work?


texts: Are there safety concerns or code violations with my garage sub-panel?

texts:
I recently bought a home and the garage has this sub panel that looks questionable to me. The garage has a circuit for 240v, and two other circuits that consists of two 120v wall outlets, and two 120v switched outlets. I do not know when this was all installed.
I do see that all the circuits run off a single 2 pole 40 amp breaker. The neutral and grounds are bonded as well in this panel. All the Romex in the garage is 12/2. The main panel is outside the home and the breaker for the garage is 40 amp.
I am a novice with home electrical but not a complete idiot and trying to learn. I dont plan on messing with any of this myself, just want to know how horrible this actually is.

EDIT
I have added below requested pics of the panel label. This is also a detached garage, ~20' away from the main panel on back of the house.
I really appreciate all the comments and suggestions and have learned alot just from this.
I suppose then my end goal is a subpanel upgrade, keep my current outlets but on two separate breakers (?) May just get rid of the existing 240v circuit and have a three foot 6 or 8/2 run to a 50amp breaker for the welder (?) Since the feed from the main panel is #8, I suppose Ill have to upgrade that moving forward? It is run overhead.
Trying to get a grasp on what I want/need before I call somebody to come out.


texts:
My marble backsplash was just completed and grouted yesterday afternoon.  I now realize it probably should have been sealed prior to installation but it wasn’t.  How long should I now wait before sealing it? Do I need to wait for it to be cured? How long would that be? My contractor said totally dry in 6 hours but I worry there is a difference between dry and dry enough to seal?

TIA
![enter image description here]


texts: Is it ok to use caulking instead of tape and mud on my new drywall ceiling?

texts:
My contractor told me it's much cleaner to use caulking instead of mud/tape on my new ceiling.
He's not talking about the corners. He's talking about where the seam of the drywall sheets meet. I've never heard of this method. Is this acceptable?


texts: Splicing wall plates at doors and windows?

texts:
2x6 construction, exterior load bearing walls.

Recently started trying to splice long walls with the end stud landing half on first wall plate and half on second wall plate so the stud joining the two plates has 3/4" bearing on each end. I end nail the one wall with the stud then stand the second wall, tap it into the splicing stud, and toenail that one.

Now say a 16' wall plate ends roughly center of a window or door that will have a header, and cripples/jacks if it's a window. Is this kosher? How do you join the top plate if it's it a door and bottom plate if it's a window? I can't see standing the wall with half the header sticking out flopping in the breeze (it won't flop but it will only be supported by the one side of the king stud and trimmer) this seems like a bad idea.

Is there an efficient way to frame where you stop a wall plate before the window or door? I don't see a way around the other system here where you double down on your studs and nail those two studs together to splice the wall and maintain full strength but narrow up the stud cavity space.


texts: Why would only part of a foundation be stabilized?

texts: I just came across a foundation repair report, and I noticed that the area of the home that most significantly deviated (bottom left) from the reference point was the only part not stabilized. What's the rationale for such a partial stabilization? It's a 1 story home with the same ceiling height throughout, built on a slab.


texts: Leak between copper and braided supply line

texts:
Today I found a slow leak in my kitchen faucet. It’s a pull-down style faucet with small copper tubing going through the counter, and the leak is where that copper meets the braided supply line. I don’t see any way to put a wrench on the copper pipe, so how can I fix this? I’m not sure, but it seems like maybe this fitting is meant to be permanent from the factory?
I don’t know the brand of faucet. The stem is a square, and I took photos of some identifying marks. If anyone can identify this, that would be helpful if I need to order a part.


texts: There is no hot water at kitchen sink. It flows, but not hot. There is hot water everywhere else in the house.

texts: There is hot water everywhere in the house except the kitchen. The water flows but is not hot. When I turn off the hot water shut off under the sink some cold water still flows but it never gets hot. Could this be only due to a bad shut off valve?


texts: Do I need to grind down my concrete slab floor for a new bathroom before I apply membrane (HydroBan) before tiling? The slab is already quite flat, just some join compound/paint splatters.


texts: Can I run a propane generator under my house?

texts:
I recently bought a propane generator to use during the periodic blackouts we get in California now.  I have a large crawlspace underneath my home and it would be fairly easy for me to place it down there and run a cable up through my floor to my house.

My question is - will this be safe?  I know that generators produce carbon monoxide and I don't want to... kill everyone in my house.  Would it be safe to run it under my house or should I look for a location outside?


texts: How to address drywall damage and wet grout from my Travertine tiled shower?

texts:
I noticed the paint was bubbling and peeling outside my shower. A plumber told me it was because of the glass shower door and that he sees this kind of water damage a lot and there was nothing to do about it. Well after the problem got worse I noticed there were cracks in the grout right were the leak was occurring. I then noticed there were lots of cracks all around the floor and that the previous owner had repaired some of them with caulk. I thought I would chip away where there were cracks and re-grout then seal it and repair the wall. Now I am wondering if I need to do more or if I messed up...

Using a Dremel with a grout removal tool I started on the cracked areas. Water started seeping through the grout and big areas of the grout are now wet and the grout is soft. After reading D.Moore's excellent response about Travertine tile being porous, I am not too concerned about the water but I don't know how much of the grout I actually have to remove. Some of it is very hard and the Dremel tool isn't touching it.

Also, what do I need to do behind the tiles I removed?

Do I have to cut away the punky stuff that is behind it?

How to I repair that part and make sure this doesn't leak again?

Was it really the shower door or the crack in the grout?

Do I have to wait for all the water to dry before I attempt to re-grout?

How long might that take?

![tile
]2

![behind other wall
]6

![behind wall
]7


texts:
The home in question is in Orange County California. I believe most upstairs floor joist are 2"x10" 16" on center. What is the pounds per square feet.

If my box foot print 60"x80"and weighs 2000lbs would it be safe at 30psf


texts:
I sold a hot tub that was on my property when I purchased it.  There is a 240V sub-panel that powered the hot tub and it has one double-pole breaker.

With the hot tub going away, what should I be doing with this sub-panel since I'm left with no load on it.

Should I just switch the single breaker off in the sub-panel?  Should I also switch off the breaker at the main panel that feeds the sub-panel?  Or should I be removing the breaker at the main panel altogether?


texts:
I'm planning on building a shed on a sloped area. I've decided to build a gravel pad framed by 6x6's to create a level surface for the shed.

How can I anchor the shed to the gravel pad? (It's required in my area.) Would eye anchors hold in the gravel? Can I attach tie downs to the frame? Any ideas appreciated.


texts: Turning on AC either resets thermostat or blows fuse

texts:
I have an 10-year-old American Standard Freedom 90 HVAC system, with an outdoor AC compressor. My thermostat (Honeywell RTC6580WF 1001) stopped being able to turn the AC on (it could still turn the fan and heat on), so I called out an HVAC guy. He couldn't find anything wrong with the contactor (but he replaced it with a sealed one) or the cap on the compressor, and upon further investigation he was able to get the AC to start by manually shorting the R, G, and Y wires behind the thermostat. From that he determined that the thermostat was bad.

I replaced the thermostat with a new one (same model), but when it tries to start the AC it immediately turns off for a few seconds (it's powered by the C wire) and then turns back on. It sits there blinking that it's waiting for the compressor protection timer, and then after 5 minutes it tries to start the AC again and reboots again and the cycle repeats.

I pulled it back off the wall and tested the voltages, and I'm getting a little over 26V between R and all the other wires. However, with the thermostat off, if I short R and Y, it now blows the 5A fuse on the furnace's control board. I've tried this twice, with the same result.

Any ideas?

EDIT: I think I found the problem: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yeGaGdQPyAbwvw2x8

I heard scurrying when I first approached the compressor, so it's likely the cable became rodent food at some point. It's too far back to splice inside the compressor housing, so I am going to either need to figure out how to do a weatherproof splice or splice it inside the house and run a new wire through the wall.


texts: Can I use a tap and die kit to change the thread pitch on an existing machine screw?

texts: Can I use a tap and die set to change screw threads? I'm having difficulty finding the right size of screws for my project, and wish to manufacture my own. Can any type of screws / bolts be used with a tap and die kit in this manner, or do they have to be made of a specific material?


texts: What is the best way to add attic intake ventilation?

texts:
I have an old attic where the soffits aren't ventilated, and can't be because the soffits are a separate dead air space, not continuous with the attic. It currently has two turbine vents (one of which does largely nothing since it's lower than the other) as well as gable vents, which are original to the house.

What would be the best way to add intakes to balance the exhaust capacity I currently have. Not including the two gable vents, I should have about 2 sq.ft. of exhaust ventilation for the 300 sq.ft. attic, but without any intakes, they don't really do much.


texts: What entities must get involved when building a new home or modifying the exterior of a home?

texts:
When constructing a new home or renovating a home, and the exterior of the home is changing in some way, what entities (government, insurance companies, home owner, etc..) or organizations must be involved?

Someone told me that you must comply with city or municipality building codes.

If government must be involved, is this county specific or city specific usually?


texts: Can a hole cutter be used with a dremel?

texts:
My dremel has an adjustable speed switch, which makes it a lot easier to control the speed than with a drill. Is there an adapter I can buy so I can attach this hole cutter (which has a shank that is too big for the dremel), to my dremel?

On the packaging it says maximum 500RPM.


texts: Where can I find good resources on solar thermal backup options?

texts:
The 'what if the sun don't shine' problem is the difficult issue in solar thermal.  Where can I find good solid test-based resources on the options for backup and their downsides?  For example:

Single tank with gas backup: gas standby losses, heater kicks in even if water is cold but there is no demand, minimum flow rate too high.
Single tank with electric backup: heater kicks in even if water is cold but there is no demand.
Tankless gas: high cost, inconsistent output temperature, gas service upgrades.
Tankless electric: electric service upgrades, higher per-btu cost.
2nd tank gas: high standby losses.
2nd tank electric: higher per-btu cost, but cheap to buy and effective?

Where are the good resources on this topic?  Does the answer change if a small radiant heat loop is in the mix?


texts: Planning to switch to a tankless water heater

texts:
I am planning to convert to a tankless water heater but have a few questions to make sure I am on the correct path.

I live in a rowhouse in Philadelphia where natural gas is used for heat and my water heater tank is located in the basement by the front of the house where the water (and gas) enter the house.  I want to relocate the new tankless water heater to more central location that is closer to the points of demand. I am planning the placement to on the wall about a foot away from the stack and below the kitchen. I want to avoid cutting through the exterior wall for the venting and was hoping I can run the piping along side the stack (not sure about the spacing requirements) inside the interior wall that separates the kitchen and dining room on the first floor and bathroom and bedroom on the second floor and vent through the roof.

The questions I have are:
1) it is copper piping throughout and was thinking to replace the 3/4" feeding with PEX but maybe it would be helping to keep copper to help the water warm up a bit before reaching the heater. Is it better to keep it copper since PEX is a better insulator.
2) Not sure whether to use concentric or not, would be great to only cut one hole, but maybe I want to add some exhausting venting from the bathroom upstairs which means I might need add a separate exhaust pipe anyway.  If do not go with the concentric can I use the exhaust piping to vent the bathroom exhaust too?  is there a backstop.

Any information would be appreciated.


texts: How should the thermostat wires be connected to my furnace?

texts:
I have an Amana AMV90704CXBB furnace, and regular programmable thermostat.
I took the furnace apart because I have to wash the blower motor wheel. It was covered in construction dust.

In order to take the blower motor out I had to disconnect all the low voltage wires, that goes into main control board on furnace. Unfortunately for me, I was stupid enough and didn’t take any pictures of original wiring.

When I put everything back together and flipped the power switch on side of the furnace-blower motor starts working immediately. Even when thermostat was set on “off”. Now I have a continuously running fan., that won’t shut off.

If I turn furnace to a heat-heater works, thermostat works and after temperature was raises to a settings point-the burners will shout off, as suppose to, but fan won’t stop. If I switch to AC-the thermostat will click, but AC unit outside won’t do anything.

If I disconnect three low voltage wires that goes into a main control board from outside AC unit the heater will work as suppose to. The blower motor/fan will be  off. If temps are dropped or you rise the thermostat settings-it will works as it suppose to.

If I switch to cold and lower the temperature on thermostat-it will click, fan motor in furnace will start working, but AC ,since  it was disconnected obviously wont work. There is a three wires going into outside AC unit. I’m 99% sure that the green and red(see the pictures) are where they are before I took the unit apart. However-I’m not o sure about white colored wire. I’m sure that thermostat wiring is fine.

Can anyone help me diagnose this problem? What could it be and where this white wire should be on main control board?
On the picture-three wires from left wire are going into AC unit. 4 wires from the right one-goes into thermostat. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much and please forgive me for my English. Obviously it’s not my native language. Thanks!


texts: I lowered the pressure on my boiler and it flooded

texts:
We have single-pipe steam in our four unit building. We installed Danfoss RA 2000 valves in 3 of the 4 apartments but they seemed not to work too well and also tended to spit water from the air valves.

The system was running around 3-5 PSI. I turned it down to 0-2 PSI. After doing that however I noticed the water level in the boiler slowly rising and now it flooded. Any idea why that would happen? Am I stuck with higher pressure?

Update:

I have the Danfoss controls for 1 pipe steam. (My radiators stopped heating consistentenly, so I put a Hoffman vent on one of the radiators.) The rest are Danfoss vents.

As for the boiler flooding... looks like my Pressuretrol tripped? The mercury bulb tipped over and opened the circuit.

I drained the boiler until the sight glass was 1/2 way and pressed the lever and the boiler turned on again. But it keeps tripping. Sorry if I'm not using the right terminology.

The water in the glass moved higher and seems to be hovering around 3/4 full. (It visibly oscillates up and down slightly when the boiler is on but I assume that's normal?)

I am attaching picture(s) of my boiler controls maybe you guys can see what's wrong...

I don't know how to adjust these controls to try to keep the pressure below 2-3 PSI.


texts:
I want to be able reach the eaves for cleaning. The ground is on a slope.  What would be a good way to get up there?  What it to be safe, not cost a fortune.  I don't need to go up very often. Adjustable ladder legs seem to be costly.  Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks


texts:
I had my roof repaired, and in the process much of the popcorn from my popcorn ceiling (built in the 1970s in the US) fell all over my floor. Is it safe to vacuum it up?

What should I do with it?


texts:
Can somebody suggest me a good way to repair a leak in the rain gutter? The rain gutter consists of coated iron sheet metal, it is not in the traditional semicircle form but it is bended to an rectangular cross section. Exactly in the middle of an inner corner there is a leak (~ 3 x 10 mm). Somebody already tried to repair it with some sort of sealant but over the years that ripped open, allowing water to leak in the wooden substructure.

I have no possibility to access the underside of the rain gutter, I would prefer a spot repair since the rest of the gutter is in good shape.


texts: Why can't a swamp cooler and a furnace be active at the same time?

texts:
New to living with a swamp cooler.  I've been told by several sources (people and internet) that the swamp cooler and the furnace can't be on/active at the same time, and indeed my landlord switches one off and the other on at the same time.
However, the swamp cooler is not connected to the duct work that the furnace uses.  The cooled air has a single entry point in the ceiling of the house.  The two systems use separate thermostats as well.  I do not understand why the swamp cooler and the furnace could not be active at the same time.  (Not that I would run them at the same time.)  Is it true that in two isolated systems as I describe, one must be all the way off and deactivated in order for the other to run?  Or have I been told wrong?


texts:
I want to use a 4x4 8' with two floor jacks on each side holding it up against the floor joists in the middle of the length. The purpose is for support.

We added a lot of heavy mud weight for tiles, that I was considering this support.


texts: Should I install vapor barrier in my basement bathroom?

texts:
I have a brick house built in the 1920s. I'm installing a bathroom basement based on an existing layout, but I'm trying to keep the "wet" side (mechanical room with hot water heater, etc.) physically separate from the "dry" side (scrapbook room, home office). The new bathroom will have a shower, whereas the old bathroom did not.

I'm installing a 2x4 stud wall between the bathroom and home office. The home office side will have mold resistant 1/2" drywall on the walls. The bathroom side will have concrete board covered with a water barrier (Kerdi, more than likely) and tile in the shower and FRP in the non-shower bathroom area. Of course, I'm also installing a fan and venting to remove moisture from the air after a shower.

My question, and I'm planning on installing bat insulation in the wall, is:

Should I put a vapor barrier on the home office side, or will this eventually trap moisture/condensation in the wall?


texts: Are watchmaker or mini lathes useful to make adapters and threaded rings for photography and optics tinkering?

texts:
Old watchmaker lathes, or very small lathes like the Proxxon FD150/e look affordable used, and not very space consuming either.

Can these be used, by a non expert, to build aluminium parts like thread adapters between 20 and 80 mm in diameter, threaded retainers, spacers, tubes, from aluminium or brass bar stock?


texts: Would enveloping an attic in insulation cause any problems?

texts:
My attic currently has batt insulation between the joists, and a second layer of batt insulation on top of that.  In the summer, the second floor is quite a bit warmer than the first floor. I'm thinking about adding more insulation to the attic, but I'm not sure what the best approach is.

Originally I was considering simply throwing another layer of batt insulation on the floor.  Now I'm thinking about insulating the roof instead, by adding batt insulation between the rafters.

Obviously I'd have to extend the baffles, to allow air to flow up to the ridge vent.

Would this approach cause any moisture, or any other unforeseen problems?  Is there any benefit to this approach, over simply adding an additional layer of batts to the floor? Should I use faced or unfaced batts?


texts: Can NM cable be installed in a junction box mounted to a floor joist in an unfinished area?

texts:
I understand that NM cable can be run along and through floor joists in unfinished areas of basements.  However, can the NM cable then be installed in a box mounted on the joist, perhaps for a light fixture or an overhead receptacle?  Similar to the photo.
Edit: Thanks for the answers so far!  Specifically, I am asking with regard to code requirements that NM cable be protected.  In the situation shown in the photo, is the NM cable sufficiently protected to meet basic code requirements or is EMT conduit required?
Edit: The location would be Joliet, Illinois, United States.  According to the city website, the city uses NEC 2014.  The area will be an unfinished utility area that is adjacent to and on the same branch circuit as a finished hallway and bathroom except the GFCI receptacle.


texts:
I'm looking install a whole house fan but I've run into a few challenges installing it in my house's main attic.

I had a company come out to get a quote and the installer told me that based on the lack of available space in the attic relative to the locations in the hallway ceiling that had enough space for the opening I would either need to re-structure a couple of joists or move a few ducts.

Neither option is a choice I want to go with, however I was thinking in my connected garage I have an attic with enough space it install one. I'd leave the house windows open, the house door to the garage open and the main garage door closed; the fan would suck air through the house into the main garage and then through its attic.

I know this is not the idea location for it but would it accomplish the same thing with the exception of not cooling the attic in the house?  Should I be concerned with pulling air from the house attic at all?


texts: Does cold galvanizing compound restore the rust protection of a galvanized duct?

texts:
The house is a ranch built on slab on grade with a newer furnace in a downflow configuration with A/C. The in-floor clay tile supply lines are in good shape and clean.

The original 60 year old in-floor supply plenum (30in x 22in) shows corrosion.  The plenum is directly below the A-Coil & subject to condensate.

I have wire brushed the surface rust and treated it with The Must for Rust. I am looking at various cold galvanizing compounds (GRC/Rustoleum) to apply to the bare metal to restore the zinc protection. Access to the plenum (which is much larger than the 14in x 19in cabinet housing the A-Coil) is tight so this will be a challenge.

My concern is that since there are mixed metals in close proximity, a zinc coating may be important to protect the noble metal of the A-Coil by sacrificing itself to the eventual rusting process. Or does this even apply given that plenums are now sometimes fabricated with duct board?

I am wondering if I can just reline the bottom with a thin rubber mat cut to size that will conform itself to the metal isolating it from moisture from possible condensate from above?


texts: Connecting 240v 14-50R to multiple heaters in parallel

texts:
I have four infrared heaters that each draw 6.67 amps at 240v.

Each heater has a red, black and green wire: more info (I have SW-24 single lamp model)

I'm in the US and recently had a NEMA 14-50 receptacle installed.

How can I safely connect these four heaters to the receptacle? It is a temporary connection as I only need to do some tests for a few minutes with all heaters on.

My first thought is to wire an extension cable (maybe something like this) to a box with four outlets in parallel?

I'm trying to avoid paying an electrician as it's only a temporary setup and I won't need it after a few minutes of testing.

Any insight is appreciated - thanks!


texts: What is a proper high-quality sub-floor preparation for porcelain tile floor installation

texts:
I am preparing to do a kitchen remodel where I am replacing an existing tile floor with a new porcelain tile floor. The old floor that is being replaced has several areas where it is not level and some areas where the old tiles have cracked, possibly because the sub-floor is not stiff enough.

I am interviewing contractors to do this work and I really want a high-quality installation, even if I have to pay more for it. I have a book about remodeling by that TV guy Mike Holmes and he says that the proper way to prep a subfloor for tiles is:

  First, make sure you have a 1 1/4-inch sub-floor before any tile goes
  down. That means if there's a 5/8-in layer of oriented strand board,
  then you need at least another 5/8-inches on top of that. Use oriented
  strand board, conventional plywood, or better yet, a waterproof
  product like WonderBoard or HardiBoard which are concrete-based
  products. Whatever you use should be set onto the existing sub-floor
  and glued and screwed to the joists underneath.  Finally, I recommend
  a waterproof membrane on top of that such as Ditra from Schluter. It's
  a bright orange waffled plastic that's put down right before laying
  the tile. It helps with water-tightness and provides just a little bit
  of flex, which allows the tile to absorb impact.

I have prepared a scope of work describing that I want this done and sent it to some local tile laying companies for quotes. The responses I have received have indicated that this is not the way they would recommend prepare a floor for laying tile and they recommend alternatives. After I received those responses I went to a tile store and asked about this and they also said not to do this.

I have three questions

Is the way described in the book a good way to prepare floor for
laying tile?
Why would he write this in his book if it wasn't a
    good/standard way of preparing the subfloor?
If you were having a
    tile floor installed in your house what subfloor preparation would
    you want assuming you are looking for the highest quality
    installation?

I guess I am also wondering why I am getting pushback on this from the installers?


texts: How do I pour concrete over basement plumbing?

texts:
I’m pouring concrete over rough plumbing  (as pictured). The plumber attached the shower pan to the drain.  How can I get concrete under the shower pan? Radon is an issue in my area. I would like to seal the floor in some way.

How thick should I pour the new floor? The existing floor is 3’’ to 4’’ depending on the spot. Do I need to prep the sides of the existing concrete to get the new stuff to attach properly?

The pipes are in a 9’ trench going to the ejector pit. Do I need to pour this in sections?

Should I wrap the ejector pit or pipes where they exit the concrete to protect from movement/settling? Should I remove dirt and add sand around the pipes?

the shower drain:

I have reviewed theses posts:

What is the best way to fill a hole in a concrete basement floor?

How do I fill in around waste pipes?


texts: New light fitting for looped in wiring without enough terminals

texts:
I've got a new light to replace the an older one, issue is the existing light fitting has a loop rose, and my new one just has terminals for live/neutral/earth.

New Fitting

Old Fitting

The switch wire is marked fine, so i know witch that is but i'm not sure the best way to fit the new one.

I've read maybe i can just twist the wires together and stuff them into the new terminals, but i dont really like the sound of that. There's not really enough room (without using a hammer) to get a junction box in.

Have i to just get a terminal strip and mirror the existing setup, dropping the terminals inside the new fitting, or is there another (better/safer) way?

Cheers


texts:
Basement has been framed but here is what I'm looking at. I have a 2x6 exterior wall that has a 38" cinder block half wall protruding 1 1/2" from the framed wall above it. I framed that out for a 5" shelf to come down the line.

The area above that wall to upstairs floor is 84" and has been insulated with a vapor barrier by builder. I will need to install blocking on the front side of those 2x6s parallel to the ceiling joists to fasten ceiling rock to.

Does that area behind that 2x4 blocking need to have fire block? 2x6s installed into each bay parallel to the 2x4 blocking?


texts:
I moved into a house with a number of sliding doors. NOT external, sliding glass doors like the sort that lead onto a porch. These are the wooden kind that separate rooms and slide into the interior of the wall when opened.

The problem is that several of these doors are essentially broken. They seem to have come off their track somehow and can barely be moved more than a foot in either direction. No amount of jarring and shaking the door has produced any effect in getting them back on the track properly.

Without tearing the entire wall open, is there any way to repair these doors so that they slide open and closed with silent ease, as they ought to?


texts:
I have a seven-year-old GE double oven, and the top oven started malfunctioning a few months ago. When I turn it on, it initially heats to the correct temperature, then stops heating, and never heats again. So if I set it to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, it will reach that temperature (actually it will go to around 450), then stop heating, and the temperature just drops from there.

The strange thing is that the temperature sensor is working: if I shut the oven off and turn it back on, it will tell me the current temperature. (Yes, I am using a portable oven thermometer to confirm its reading.)

FYI: I have already read these similar questions.


texts: How to remove and replace kitchen tile backsplash?

texts:
It's time to replace a tile backsplash, which is course textured, thick, and appears cut to fit around cabinets.

Is there a reasonable way to chip it off and preserve the underlying wallboard, or must I demo back to the studs and replace the wallboard as well as the tile?

If a wallboard demo is needed, does this mean removing and re-hanging cabinets?

Thanks!


texts: Weatherproof junction/extension box with 8AWG wiring - selection and mounting problem

texts:
I am trying to install a simple surface mounted junction box, in terms of the Code it seems pretty straightforward, but have run into several practical problems. Thought I might as well ask more experienced people here how they would solve the issue.
I have 3 8AWG solid wires and a bare ground in a recessed 1-gang metal box at a covered patio stucco wall (see Pic 1). Those are connected to a double 60 Amp breaker at the main. Now, I would like to splice those to extend them just a few feet to a subpanel (which cannot be mounted in the current low position, behind an AC unit).
I got some huge wire nuts (see pic 2) and because of the number of large wires and connectors I will need a deep box (e.g pic 3). Ideally I would have a deep extension box, but cannot find those. Also a minimum 3/4in (likely Liquidtight) conduit going to the subpanel.
Here are the problems:

the existing box is a bit proud of the wall, which makes the standard surface box difficult to mount and insulate. Sigma boxes I referred to above come with two tiny flat mounts. I could add some spacers, and cut foam for makeshift insulation?
The wires are quite short, adding a box with a single hole in the back leaves me with only about 1.5" of wire to work with. ideally I could use the existing wall box and the new addition as a single unit

So, any other types of box that would mount better over the existing setup? Should I create a small wooden frame for mounting and insulation? Are there any code challenges?


texts: Can thinned water based polyurethane be used for blotch control?

texts:
And if so, what to use as a thinner (water?) and in what proportions and how to apply?

My specific problem: I have some unfinished pine 1x4s (an aquarium stand) I need to stain for color and cover with a top coat for water protection. I have a can of wb polyurethane (varathane diamond finish) and a can of varathane water based stain. Naive stain application shows uneven absorbtion. Using 1:3 poly:water as a sealer improves things a bit, but still not ideal. The goal here is to get a decent finish without using another product as a conditioner (I have more poly than I can use for this project already)


texts: Water spontaneously flowing from hot water faucet in bathroom sink

texts:
Woke up to the sound of a steady stream of (hot) water flowing from the bathroom sink, as if the handle was all the way open, but when I went to turn it off - the faucet handle was already in off position.

Turned off the hot water shut-off valve below the sink and it stopped.

Why would the water just start flowing like that ?


texts: Efficient way to determine line and load

texts:
My townhouse was built in the early 1980's, and since it was built, the state laws around which outlets are on a GFCI line have changed. The wiring itself is fine, just the receptacles need to be changed. I'm going to be placing in GFCI outlets where needed to bring it back up to code. This would require installing about half a dozen GFCI receptacles.

Unlike conventional outlets, GFCI outlets care about which wires are line (where power feeds from) and load (outlets that get power from the GFCI). Determining which is which can be tedious. My typical methodology for this has been to turn off the breaker, disconnect a NM wire, put caps on the wires that I disconnected, put the outlet back in place, and flip the breaker back on. If the outlet has power, I know that what is connected is "line", and if the outlet doesn't have power, I've found "load".

Is there an easier but still safe way to do this?


texts: How can I secure an outward door swing to be safe inside without drilling holes?

texts: I want to feel safe inside a room that swings door outward. How do I secure a outward door swing to be safe inside at night without drilling a hole into the wood. is there a portable outward swing long available for sale? thanks !


texts: Industrial strength velcro peeling off MDF

texts:
I bought some industrial strength low profile velcro in order to make wall mounting stations for a fan. The fan (about 8 lbs) slides onto hooks screwed into 24"x7" pieces of 1/2 inch thick MDF. The loop side of the velcro is stuck to the back of the MDF in two ~23 inch strips at the top and bottom, and the hook side is stuck to the wall.

I put these up in two places and let the adhesive sit for 24 hours before using them. On one, the MDF-adhesive bond started failing after about 12 hours of holding the fan, and on the other, the MDF-adhesive bond started failing after about of week of holding the fan intermittently.

How can I prevent the adhesive from peeling off the MDF? Would super glue stick better?


texts: Why does my radiator leak if it's not fully opened or closed?

texts:
I have a hot water (or steam?) radiator that leaks water unless it's completely open or closed.

The side has a valve that can be turned to open or shut the connecting pipe. The other side has a steam vent.

If I fully open the valve, everything works properly, but it gives off way too much heat.

If I open the valve just a tiny bit, it's still too hot, but bearable. However, it will leak from the steam vent (enough to pool up before it can evaporate).

I told the super of my apartment about it, hoping it could be fixed, but he said just to leave it wide open or shut it off.

I've determined I have a single pipe, steam radiator, with a steam vent on the side opposite the heat pipe.

I read bleeding could help, but my radiator does not have a bleed valve, so I turned it off and removed the steam vent instead.

Some water seeped out. Then I turned it on, and lots of water shot out. Convinced this was a steam radiator, I let this continue until it seemed less like warm water and more like scalding hot steam instantly turning to water. When that happened I turn it off.

About two and a half jars worth of water shot out. Quarter for scale.

I then replaced steam valve and turned the radiator back on, and I'm now waiting to see if it will still leak.

However, this did not help at all.


texts:
I’m having a bit of a decision making battle with myself. I’m looking to paint my living room and as I was laying tape down on the trim I saw a piece of wallpaper coming up in a very tucked away spot. I figured not much harm done in pulling it off.

Underneath is what I’m assuming is both another layer of wallpaper (the lower vertical stripes) and something else entirely that doesn’t appear to go all the way up.

My question for you all is, should I risk removing this for the whole room? I heard it might be a pain to remove and it might damage the wall underneath which could make it become expensive. However you can see seams under the current paint layer in spots so I don’t want this to all peel off over time.

The house was built in 1950 and I’m planning on painting with Sherwin Williams Emerald type Matte finish.


texts: Best / easiest way to remove old electrical connectors?

texts:
I am planning to install gutters on my home. This means I need to remove the old and defunct 1950s style power pegs from my house (see photo).

I am thinking sawzall but it might not be the cleanest or flushest cut. Can they be unscrewed with a wrench if turned counter clockwise? What's the easiest way to remove them as cleanly as possible?

Thanks!


texts:
I have a copper T joint that is leaking on one side, what is the best way to repair this joint that does not involve cutting the joint out and starting over?

-- Update --

The pipe in question is for hot water and is soldered together.


texts: While cleaning and scraping cedar siding prior to painting, I'm noticing that the siding was installed with nails, but as the siding approaches the eves, where it was more difficult to hammer the nails due to low clearance, the carpenters got lazy and a lot of the nail heads are proud of the cedar by 1/16 inch or more. Would a palm nailer be an efficient way to hammer hundreds of these nails in just a little deeper?


texts: What kind of paint should be used on old plaster and lathe walls?

texts: Are the steps to painting a plaster and lathe walls, house is early 1900's, the same as any other type of wall? What type of primer should be used? What type of paint? On the internet I read about the walls need to breathe and latex may prevent  'breathing' and moisture will build up.


texts: Why is my new LED fixture flashing when the switch is off?

texts: I just purchased an LED 4ft light for my kitchen. I ran my wires up into the ceiling and tied them in with the existing light fixture which is not an LED fixture. When I turned the breaker back on, both lights were flashing on and off with the light switch off. What would cause this?


texts: Why is there green stuff on my heater pipe?

texts:
No, really the baseboard heat is made of copper and is constructed of a series of pipes with fins.  they look like heat sinks, or dissipation helpers.  Well, was cleaning the carpet by the baseboard heater and noticed green stuff around one of the connections between sections.  Looks like a beautiful color of green patina.  Think Statue of Liberty.

So, here's the question;  is there reason to worry?  Why is green only in one place and not along the system?  Time to call Mr. Plumber?

what do you guys think?


texts: Removed an outlet attached to a lighting circuit, now the room sockets have lost power

texts:
My wife has finished cooking so I reattached the socket and the circuit is now working.
So my question becomes - how can I remove this socket and the wire without breaking the circuit?

I recently had a load bearing wall removed from my property and the leftover electrical work has been dangling between two rooms.
It's a triple gang light switch with a socket attached to the end. Two of the three lights are 3-way switches although all three switches are using 14/3 cable.
There are two sockets coming up from the floor that are on a different circuit if the extra wire is confusing. These are not connected to the circuit in question.
I removed the socket from the bottom of this 3 gang box. It was connected by a 14/2 cable spliced with neutrals and hots in the box.
All the lights are still working but I've lost power to the electrical sockets and my outdoor light.
I'm puzzled because I wouldn't have thought that removing the socket would have impacted the circuit. Is it this or is it something else?
Troubleshooting steps I've taken:

Cycled every breaker into a fully off and then on position

.


texts: a non working single 10W MR16 in a recessed light (LED)

texts:
One of the bulbs is not lighting up. I tried a new bulb and replaced the ceramic bulb holder and that did not help. What am I missing? Could it be a transformer that suddenly went bad? If that is the case what options do I have given that the transformer is buried in the ceiling.
I have researched buying a separate transformer but it appears difficult to find a dimmable 10W transformer assuming I can get to the main wiring without ripping up the ceiling. Any ideas would be most helpful.
Also, do I need a dimmable transformer? Or will a constant work with a  dimmer switch?


texts: Is a gas water heater safe in a bedroom?

texts:
My existing water heater is electric and is likely to need replacing soon. The heater is in a converted garage that I use as a guest room.

As the house is piped for gas, I'm considering the purchase of a gas water heater to replace the electric one. Is there any hazard with a modern gas water heater being used near where people are sleeping? (I'm more concerned here with fumes than the possibility of explosion.)


texts: Anyway to hack a portable AC unit to cool 2 rooms

texts:
I am looking to take a portable AC unit and hopefully run a tube through a wall in another room while still cooling the room the unit is located. I have searched to attachments that could help but have come up empty. Any help would be appreciated.

DR


texts:
I'm well aware of the risk of replacing in wrong way switch box. I will not change the switch box by myself and I will ask an expert to do the job.
For my personal experience I would like to know how to install this particular WiFi switch in Australia.
all the lights are connected to a transformers for 12v lights
all the neutral are insulated together
the second switch of the living room doesn't exist anymore, its been removed and closed in the wall. so I will need only a one way switch for the living room.
thanks guys


texts: I have an old Honeywell H8808 humidistat and a Pro 1 model T721 thermostat and the problem is that when the humidistat is turned down far enough to kick the system on it will come down to set temperatures and the condensing unit will shut off but the blower will keep running. If you turn up the humidistat the blower will go off but the system won’t kick on again when the temperature rises above the thermostat setting. I’ve tried every combinations of settings that I could think of with no luck. Is there a way to just eliminate the humidistat which I really don’t need?


texts:
Is there any way to infer the gauge of the wires inside an NM cable from the size and shape of the cable? I reckon a round cable is generally -/3 W/G and a flatter cable -/2 W/G, but I do not know how to distinguish 14/2 W/G from 12/2 W/G without readable markings.

I am mapping house circuits and have run across some NM cable whose markings have faded into nonexistence or were never present (might be 1980s cable, and I am ignorant of 1980s cable manufacture practices). Some text was embossed into the cable sheathing during manufacture, but the visible run is short and I cannot read the desired information off the cable.

I have a bunch of 20A breakers and am concerned the cable running out might be 14/2 W/G rather than 12/2 W/G, which I understand would mean the cable is undersized for the circuit amperage.


texts:
I have an older thermostat I'd like to replace with the more modern Nest thermostat. The online Nest compatibility checker tells me that I have a compatible device. However, I'm not sure how it could work since my existing thermostat runs on batteries. How would the Nest draw it's power? The older thermostat (pictured) has R, W, Y wires and a B which is not connected to anything. The other end of the wire (pictured) mixes colors with two smaller wires (the heater and the AC I'm assuming?). Is this a DIY job or something that should be handled by professionals?

Thanks in advance!


texts:
I am building an electric skateboard for which I bought a pulley with a belt that will transfer torque from the motor. This pulley is mounted on a wheel with 5 M3 screws and here is the problem. All skate- or longboard wheels are polyurethane and it turned out to be really nasty to drill. I tried to do it by hand with my screwdriver, but drill bit walks around a lot before penetrating and inclines very easily from drilling axle. And if it did incline, it is almost impossible to drill a hole just next to the previous. I tried freezing the wheel, but it doesn't really make any difference.

So the question is how to drill polyurethane properly? Lubrication fluid? Speed recommendation? General tipps on processing such materials?

.


texts: How to evaluate if a door is hung correctly?

texts: I do not have experience hanging doors and I would like to understand how to evaluate an installed door replacement.  Any list of good checks / verification is appreciated.  My gut tells me this is a fine art and that there may be a few not so obvious checks that come only with experience.  If you have hung 10+ doors please state this in your reply.


texts: How do I find someone to install a utility pole?

texts:
I am in need of a fairly tall utility wooden pole installed on my property, which I'm sure requires special know how and equipment to do safely. I've been doing a lot of Googling and found a few companies around the country that SELL the poles, but not installers.

I'm not even sure what terms to search for exactly.

Does anyone have some guidance for how to find a contractor that does this kind of work?

BTW: I'm in Texas, USA.


texts: How should I connect a replacement dimmer switch?

texts:
I'm just trying to replace a broken dimmer switch, but can't make heads or tails out of the directions. Please see the photo of the partially attached NEW dimmer. Only the ground is connected so far.

The old switch was simply a vertical slider that turned the light off when it was slid down all the way... and made the light brighter by sliding it up.

The new dimmer is a combo rocker and little separate slider. I'm just not sure how to connect the rest. As you can see, sticking out from the wall are 2 blacks and 1 red. Remaining wires coming off the new dimmer are 2 reds and 1 black.

Could you please shed some light on this? (Note the bad electrical joke. :-)

Thank you!

[Video][2]

[2]: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PCAGXynuxuJYnVmPA


texts: Is PEX exposed to the environment OK to use?

texts:
In preparation for a big job I found some PEX on craigslist.

It appears to have been exposed to the elements but all in all it looks fine.

http://images.craigslist.org/00J0J_kqRj1PQAivO_600x450.jpg

Can PEX withstand a little environmental conditions without loosing it's stability?


texts:
My home used to have a three-way circuit setup to control the upstairs hallway light from downstairs. However the home was built in 1930 and had old knob and tube wiring. The last owners renovated the home and "completely removed the old wiring and rewired the entire house." I've since found some of the old wiring scattered throughout the home, such as in the attic, but it would always have new wiring ran along beside it. We were told that they'd disconnected everything and left some of the old wiring and such because it would be a pain to remove the dead system, but that it was all completely useless.

The problem now though is that at the bottom of the stairs we have three switches (one for outside, one for the living room there, and one for the hallway upstairs.) The three-way that's meant for the hallway upstairs, wouldn't do anything. We were told that the owner couldn't get it to connect to the light 'for some reason' so he 'disconnected it and left it as a dummy switch'. I've since removed the covers from both boxes, hoping that I could fix his mistake, and I see that he's taken a lot of shortcuts. The switch downstairs is entirely wired up, and hot! It's the old knob and tube wiring attached to it, the old switch, and the old box. The only thing that was changed was the cover. The upstairs light is still using the old box, but has a new single pole switch and new wires: black, white (used as hot but not identified), and a ground. However, in the back of the box is two old knob and tube wires ran into the box and capped separately with wirenuts, of course they were also still hot and presumably the travelers from downstairs.

To make it easier when he rewired the upstairs, probably the only rewiring he did, he ran up a new sub panel upstairs (as the main is in the basement). So now I'm seeing that he ran the upstairs light and switch from the subpanel, and then had tried to connect to the downstairs switch, although it's coming from the main. I'm not sure where the old neutral from the main is at but I haven't removed the light yet to check and so it might possibly be in there, hopefully disconnected though. Other than that, I don't know if I have any way of getting new wire from the attic all the way down to the basement, easily at least.

Below is a crudely drawn version of what, I believe, we have going on. The yellow squares are wirenuts.
I guess what I'm wondering now is if we'd be able to remove the hot wire upstairs from the sub-panel to the switch, change the single pole into a three way also, and let the old wiring use the new neutral in the sub to return to the main?


texts: New thermostat wire: maximum number of wires?

texts:
Background:

I'm upgrading from a failing ecobee smart thermostat to an ecobee3.  The ecobee3 requires all wires for the components it controls to be run all the way to the thermostat (including humidifiers, dehumidifiers, etc).

I currently have 5 wires running to the unit, but I need the following for my setup:

R
G (fan control)
Y1 (single stage cool)
W1 (single stage heat)
W2 (second stage heat)
C (constant power for thermostat)
ACC+ (humidifier)
ACC- (humidifier)

Since I will be pulling new wire, I want to ensure I future-proof as much as possible for any future components I may add (such as a dehumidifier).

Question:

What thermostat wiring should I buy to get the maximum number of wires from the control board to the thermostat?  What gauge/specs/etc?

I found 18/10 "sprinkler" wire on home depot's website.  I also see that they have 18/8 thermostat wiring.  Wondering what my options are and if it ever makes sense to run 2 sets of wires (such as an 18/8 and another 18/8).


texts: How can i set up a Solar Panel to charge a 12v DC car battery and power a Raspberry Pi?

texts:
I've pulled together a few spare parts that i've had laying about for ages now and I finally have a bit of time to try do something with them.

I've got a solar panel which puts out ~22vDC @ ~2Amps when its in decent sunlight, and i've got a 12vDC lead-acid car battery which i pulled out of my old car.

My plan is to hook up the solar panel to charge the battery and to have the system power a small Raspberry Pi computer 24/7 (assuming the battery lasts) which should draw no more than approx 10W.

I've seen some videos which make it look like all you need is a simple inverter and to plug the solar panel straight onto the battery, but I was under the impression you need a charging circuit to make sure you don't damage the battery?

Are there any detailed guides to doing this available or does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about doing this?


texts: Dulux silk paint peeled off after removing masking tape hell

texts:
That grey paint was there for a few months and it decided to peel off after I removed the masking tape which was only left on for 10-20 mins

Should I remove all the grey paint and do something like get a primer, I’m not sure how this stuff works


texts:
My contractor installed this system yesterday, at my property:

"Trane T4TTR6060C1000A RX16 5 TON XR16 A/C 16 SEER rating R410A".

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7uO-n40pIiESGJBdmhlUnFkbDQ&usp=sharing

I noticed that unit is installed under my gutters. My contractor said that it is not a problem, but the unit has an open top, and I afraid that debris, leaves and other obstacles can get inside the unit.

Question: Can I buy any top cover? So, the leaves and other debris do not get inside the unit? Something like the following:

http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Outdoor-Conditioner-Cover/dp/B003CUWQCA


texts:
I have a "breakfast nook" section of my kitchen with a large hot water convector installed along the baseboards of two walls. Because of other elements in the heating system located close nearby and the fact that I want to install cupboards in the "breakfast nook", I'd like to move the convector to another adjacent room.
The kitchen gets plenty of heat from the attached mechanical room and laundry room as well as cooking, convective air currents, and a forced air heating system, so I'm not worried about keeping the room warm. (It's usually too hot!)
What do I have to do to move the convector to another location? What is the process for disconnecting the water lines, moving the convector to a new location (an office on the other side of the kitchen wall) and reconnecting the water lines?
Is there pressurization I have to deal with? I imagine air being introduced into the boiler system is a concern. Should that just be bled out on the convector unit connector?
I'd also like to change the geometry of the convector from an "L" shape to a straight run. Is that something I can do by changing out the copper fittings?
I realize this is a very broad question (or series of questions actually) but I'm looking for a very high level methodology for moving the convector and especially what are some of the things I'll have to contend with.
I have very little experience with this style of heating system but I'm pretty versed with plumbing and electrical work, etc.
I've tried "googling around" and I'm not really finding very much good information. Everything I can find is either trying to tell me how the system works or why I should call some HVAC company to come work on my system.
This is similar to the unit I want to move:

...inside there are two copper pipes and heat-exchange fins, a hot water inlet and a hot water return connection from the boiler. The "guts" of it looks essentially like this, specifically the "front" example:

...although, mine has the "in" and "out" connections at the same end and the copper is plumbed in an enlongated U-shape.


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What to do with this drain situation? The kitchen sink drain shares the galvanized pipe there. Problems have been that the water from the kitchen sink backs up into the bathroom drain and there is always water in the bath sink drain up to the level of the sink. I don't know if this is a vent problem, a drain problem, or both. It looks quite a mess to me, but I'm not a pro. I am willing to jump in and do what it takes but not thrilled with the idea of messing with that cast iron stack.

There is no venting of these drains. Rather than run vent pipes and have to tap into the cast iron vent pipe on the adjacent wall I was hoping to install Air Admittance Valves under both the bathroom and kitchen sinks, but the drain pipe on the bath side is so high there isn't enough room for the AAV under the sink.

Just to clarify, the kitchen sink is on the wall behind and above about where the heat register is. The drain setup under the kitchen sink is pretty average with just a few inches of drain from the p-trap to the wall.

How should this drain set up be configured?


texts: Does cork flooring underlayment have to be glued down?

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I'm finally getting around to installing an engineered floating floor in our living room. It's 1/2" thick. I am looking at using 1/4" cork underlayment underneath such as this from Home Depot.

It mentions 'cork underlayment adhesive'. Is this necessary? I figure since it's a floating floor to begin with, there's no real reason the underlayment can't be floating as well, is there?

The cost of the adhesive isn't a big deal, but I figure if I can save the mess/time, I will (not only for me, but any future person wanting to replace the floor). Are their strong reasons to adhere the underlayment?

UPDATE:

Thanks for the answers thus far! So, a follow-up question: If it's best to adhere the underlayment, what would be a pragmatic solution other than the mess of floor adhesive? The suggestions thus far:

tape the seams of the underlayment together (duct tape? would other tape be better?)
Staple the cork to the subfloor (will that cause issues with the underlayment expanding/contracting?


texts: What's the best/easiest way to install and wire a wall light?

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I would like to add a wall light to a wall, but I'm not sure the best way to go about doing this.

I'm thinking it will be easiest to wire it up to a ceiling light (directly above proposed placement of wall light), and just fix the cable to the wall and paint over it.

Is this a viable option? What would I need to check with regards to power consumption, and type of wires?

For matters of power requirements, I live in the UK, although answers specific to other countires are welcome too for other users who may read this question.


texts:
We recently tiled out bathroom and when installing a bath tube ledge the trim we installed wasn’t cut at a 45 angle. A little unsure as to how best to finish this end piece of tile

First image is current situation

Second image is if I add trim leaving a small gap at the end. Thought about filling it, sanding and painting this gap


texts: I installed shelves in a closet with unevenly spaced studs. The shelves are mounted to the studs and they are level and secure. The shelve mounts can support a clothes hanging bar. The bar has holes where you can screw it into the wall. However, there is no stud where the rod hits the wall. When I try to screw the rod to the wall and the rod to the mount, the rod comes loose from the wall. There is a drywall stud very close to the place where the rod hits the wall. My thought is to screw a piece of wood into the drywall stud that will extend over the inch or so to where the rod hits the wall. Then screw the rod into the wood. Is this a good idea? Is there a better way?


texts: Need help wiring switches with several wires

texts:
Background: This started out as a simple addition of a recessed light in a hallway.  The beginning issue was that the wire to power it was live all the time.  So I took apart the switches in "Box 1" by my front door.  Having little electrical knowledge, I found myself quickly over my head which landed me here.

The Setup: I have Box 1 which contains 4 switches and 5 wires (each with a live and neutral).  I have Box 2 which contains one switch for my living room which works independently of the switches in Box 1.  Currently there is no power to the wire for the recessed light and none of the other switches work as they've been disassembled.  I'm having trouble figuring out how to get them back together and make everything work again.  That's where I'm hoping DIY can give me a hand and school me on DIY home electrical work.

The Goals

Have the recessed light be on it's own switch.
Have one switch for the porch light, garage light, and lamp post light.  There were 4 switches previously so I want to cut it down to two.

Current Knowledge

The Service Box wire will trip the breaker if I connect the live to the neutral.
The Garage wire will trip the breaker if I connect the live to the neutral.
The Lamp Post Light wire will turn on the light if I connect the live to the neutral.

Tools Available

Klein Tools MM100 Multimeter
Klein Tools Voltage Tester
Commercial Electric VAC/DC MS8900H Tester
Standard tools: wire strippers, needle nose pliers, etc.


texts: Toilet bubbles and gurgles after capping vent stack

texts:
We had a bad wax ring on the toilet so we replaced that, then we decided to replace the toilet with a newer model. Now the toilet doesn't flush right--sometimes we have to flush it a couples of times for things to go down.

We thought it might be a clog so we had a plumber company clean the lines out there was nothing blocking it. They suggested that the vent stack might be clogged so we flushed it out with water and capped the vent pipe. However, the toilet is still acting up with bubbling and gurgling sounds and we can't figure out whats going on. Any suggestions?


texts: Can a garbage disposal handle waste from both a sink and a dishwasher?

texts: Can't decide whether to put garbage disposal on the dishwasher drain or sink drain. Is it feasible to install single garbage disposal to handle waste from both?


texts: What kind of electrical outlet is this? Red, winking-face shape

texts:
I found this outlet on the second floor of my apartment.

I thought the plug could be an isolated ground plug, but then why is the connector so weird?  And I dont live in a hospital.

Important: I found this plug trying to analyze the fuses in one of my rooms. I'd like to hopefully find there to be ~25A of possible current in this room - right now the fuses are at 20A. So if i could somehow pull a lot of current from this plug that would be dandy.


texts: Water heater pilot lights but burner doesn't ignite

texts: My hot water tank heater won't work. I held the knob thing down, clicked the ignite button, and the flame came right on, but the status light won't flash and I don't know what's wrong. :( Any help would be of great use


texts: Can I control where in the toilet bowl the flush water goes?

texts:
When I flush the toilet the water mostly comes in from the front of the bowl. Is there something I can do so it covers more of the back?

There are more and bigger holes toward the front of the bowl:

Rear:

Front:


texts: What to do about a tile floor that with globs of thinset

texts:
8 months after my general contractors had laid out the new tile on the bathroom floor, I noticed one of my large format tiles starting to wobble.  It got progressively worse so I removed it and discovered that the thinset had not been laid out with an even trowel field.  It was literally 5 globs on each corner and the middle.

It looks like the the same treatment applies to the rest of the floor.  Handyman came in and helped re-set the one tile, but I constantly hear bending and bumping on the floor.  Nightmare?  Not sure if I should ask them to come back or sue if they don't?  Does it ever make sense to apply globs of thinset or were they just inexperienced and or lazy?


texts: I have a 78 inch opening between two studs to install exterior French doors in a load bearing wall.  I have a 72 inch door on order (actual size is 71 1/2 inch)  To get to the 72 inch opening, I was thinking of either installing 2 king studs to the existing king studs with 2 jack studs or installing 4 jack studs.  So which would be better, 4 king studs or 4 jack studs.


texts: I wanted to replace a dimmer switch on a wall outlet that had 3 switches next to each other. The dimmer was in the middle. There were 3 wires I disconnected from the old switch - green for the ground, a red wire T'd with wire nut with a black wire attached, and a black wire T'd with wire nut with a black wire attached. The dimmer I bought had no wires attached only color labels to tell u where which wire is suppose to go. I put the black wire from the wall to the black label on the dimmer. I put the other wire (red) to the yellow label on the dimmer. Green to green. When I turned on the power and tried the light the fixture to the left shorted out. What did I do wrong?


texts: Can I use the T terminal in my furnace as the C for a Wifi Thermostat?

texts:
I've read many posts on this, and believe I know what to do, but want to make sure.  My furnace (a Lennox G14 Series) does not have a C terminal which needs to be connected to the C terminal in my new wifi thermostat.  In the attached picture of the terminal strip in the furnace, the red wire on the T terminal and the white wire on the Y terminal go to the air conditioner.  The other 4 wires go to the thermostat.  I've measure across the R and T terminals and get 28vac.  Based on this I believe I can use the T terminal for the C connection...is that right?

Eventually I'll run a 5 wire cable but for now I plan on stealing the green wire to make the C connection if I can use the T terminal.

UPDATE: I've added the wiring diagram from inside the furnace.


texts: I have a ceiling fan with NO wall switch to turn it off. It works by remote, (I have an old house and they have it set up this way). I changed the battery and it still wont shut off. Its a Hunter Fan with no Light.


texts: Wiring 50A RV receptacle to 120V service

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I will be installing temporary wiring for an RV which has a NEMA 14-50 plug.  The RV does not actually need 240v, it just splits the load between two 120v legs.  I want to use a 30A 120V circuit breaker, and put a 14-50 receptacle on the end of a cord.  A common way to do this is to use a straight TT-30 cord with a 50A to 30A "dogbone" adapter, but in order to have one less connection, I'd like to wire a 14-50 receptacle directly to the cord, like this one.

My question is, how can I bridge the two hot legs inside this receptacle?  Is it safe to use a short jumper wire for this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192QB9M


texts:
I have a corner patio area that I want to cover by extending the current roof. The side is 14.5' long and 9.5' wide. The slope is along the 9.5' side.

I want to extend the roof line marked with blue to match the rest of the roof on that side.

One contractor told me that it wasn't code to do it like I wanted while another said he could do it.

Is it OK to extend the roof? I am in California.

Are there any plans that show something this? I can find many that show a ledger (San Diego County Patio Cover Plans) but none that attach to the roof in a corner.


texts: How should I fill these large cracks/voids in this brick porch?

texts:
Filling a few, I thought, small cracks on my porch jumped to the top of the to do list when I watched a chipmunk enter one of them yesterday.

He went in the crack in front of the step, the one I have a real closeup on. I don't know how far back that hole goes.

I'm thinking of just mixing up some concrete and then pushing it back as far as I can, maybe take gallon bag with a hole in the corner and push the product out as best I can. I'm guessing I probably need something else though, not regular concrete from an 80 pound bag? Possibly Polymeric sand or type O mortar without cement?

Suggestions welcome. I'm not wanting to rebuilt the steps or anything, just plug the holes. Thanks!


texts: Shower pump humming when taps opened, but no flow

texts:
I've got a Salamander CT50 Twin shower pump that provides pumped hot and cold water to the shower. The hot water output is also piped up to the hot water tap in the bathroom (the cold water tap runs off the mains directly).

We've always had an issue with this pump whereby sometimes when you turn the shower/hot water tap on, the pump will hum but not actually pump and all you get is a trickle coming out from the tap/shower head. If you open and close the tap enough times it will sometimes pick up and work well for a while.

Our setup is similar to the one shown below (taken from the manual):

Rather than their being one pipe connected to the hot water outlet, there are two, with one going to the shower hot water and the other going to the hot water tap in the sink. The other main difference is that the 600mm gap that they recommend is actually more like 400mm.

My own suspicions is this gap is the reason why we are having problems, and that the pump gets filled with air and is unable to prime.

What's the reason for this behaviour? Would buying a negative head pump solve the issue? Alternatively, would placing non-return valves on the outlets of the pump resolve the issue?

Thanks,


texts: When painting a house exterior, do you need to scrape and sand the entire house or just the peeling parts?

texts:
I'm repainting my house and everything I've read on the subject suggests scraping the old paint before applying new, but it isn't clear if you're only supposed to scrape just the peeling parts or the entire house.  My wife thinks I'm crazy for planning to scrape and sand the entire house, and after more than 6 hours of work and probably less than 1/3 of the house scraped and sanded, I'm starting to think she might be right.

On the one hand, there are some areas where the paint looked more or less okay but it's coming off, but on the other hand, not much paint is coming off in most areas.  Do I really need to scrape the entire house, or just the areas which are peeling?


texts: How many lighting circuits are needed in the LED era...? (US - NEC)

texts:
This is in a two story, ~1000square foot per floor building. With the advent of affordable, decent (IMHO) LED fixtures (finally!) the entire lighting load for the structure looks to be 500W - 1000W at the outside - well below even the 1440VA that a paranoid or cautious soul might derate 15 amp lighting circuits to on the basis that they are (at least potentially, in the long dark winter) pretty much like a continuous load. Great news for my power bill.

There will be NOTHING but lighting on the lighting circuit (or circuits.)  I've been on the other side of that, not going back. I have never personally seen a lighting-only circuit blow, though I'm sure it must happen - very occasionally. These are lights in the ceiling, not outlets/receptacles that could have "whatever" plugged into them.

Do I need to split lighting into several circuits to satisfy a code requirement, or not?

I may anyway, to ease the wild hare of "I suppose the lights could trip a breaker" but is there a code-driven need to? As far as I can see, from a practical point of view, all the lighting needs of my building in the modern age can be met with a single 15A 120V breaker.

Say, for instance, the one lighting one light at the panel right now. (which I've given a separate question.)

If you want to get picky about edition, I believe that 2011 NEC is the currently adopted code for the USA location.


texts: Can you have many adjacent windows along the perimeter of the top of a wall?

texts:
I'm looking to build an outdoor shed with a lean-to roof, and I'd like to have windows all along the top right beneath the roof, like this picture:

What additional engineering considerations are required for something like this? Do special windows need to be used? I don't see any room for a header, and there doesn't look to be enough space between the windows for more than one trimmer.


texts: I was doing my own home inspection today to keep up on maintenance, and I found something pretty unusual in the attic.  On one of the boards in the roof a tar-like substance is leaking through the board.  It doesn't look to be wet or getting a lot worse, but what is this?  Any ideas?


texts: gap between skirting boards and laminate flooring

texts:
I put down some laminate flooring with an underlay.
Where the skirting board and flooring meet there is no gap. (for the most part!)

However, where the bed frame legs are up against the wall, the pressure from the legs are pushing the flooring down, and creating a 5mm gap.

Anyway to solve this? or best way to handle it...

Cheers.


texts: How can I calculate my anticipated peak current load?

texts:
Preamble

This question takes place in Japan.

In Japan, domestic electrical service is metered, but there is also a monthly fee that increases with larger service capacity.  Units are wired for (typically) up to a 60 A service, but the installed breaker is limited to the rate plan the customer pays for.  A 30 A service is less expensive than a 40 A service, and upgrading to a higher rate plan is done with a simple breaker swap which can be done at most once per year.

Rate plans start at 10 A and move in 10 A increments up to a typical maximum of 60 A. Power is single phase, 100 V only, so 10 A = 1000 W, etc.

Question:

How can I calculate what service size I need?  I would like to select the smallest amperage plan necessary.

My home has a 30 A main fuse installed. The maximum sub-fuse is 40 A.
So upgrading to 40 A seems logical.
But actually I'd like to calculate the maximum fuse needed if I'd run (all/multiple) of devices.
Some like the air-conditioner have an current written on their body. Other appliances just have maximum power and voltage.

Would I be correct in doing the following?

calculate maximum current with voltage and power of each device
summing up the current of all of the devices (i.e. 10 A + 20 A + 7 A + 5 A)
finding thus the maximum current of the main fuse


texts:
I recently installed a new bathroom fan in our master bath in hopes for a much quieter environment. I installed a NuTone Model # AERN110 (110 CFM, 1.0 sone).

I've never had an ultra quiet exhaust fan before so I wasn't sure what to expect but I wasn't impressed, it was still pretty loud. I just figured that was normal until I visited a friend and noticed how quiet his bathroom fan was. His fan was  6 years old and almost double the sone rating of mine.

I decided to reach out to NuTone technical support and after asking me a few questions decided to send out a replacement motor. I just replaced the motor and it sounds exactly the same. I'm assuming this means the problem in on my end but I don't know what to look for.

The fan is installed in the ceiling between the first and second floor (No attic access). It's connected using 4 inch flexible duct pipe directly to the fan (No reducers or elbows). I don't know the length of the duct but I do believe it vents to the outside but I'm not positive. One other detail that may or may not be important is when the fan is running I can hear it (very quietly) in the other bathroom located on the same floor.

Hopefully I've provided enough detail for someone to point me in the right direction but please feel free to ask questions and I'll answer to the best I can. Thanks for reading!


texts: Is there a special tool to remove this shower cartridge cover?

texts:
Underneath the shower handle I've found this interesting design where there's a cover or shroud encapsulating the cartridge. The threading on it is interesting: the threading isn't required for the handle and there are two flat areas near the end. I'm guessing there's a special tool I should use to get access to the cartridge. (No, I don't think I'm referring to a cartridge puller.)
How would I find this tool? Or can anybody identify the manufacturer?


texts:
So I’m doing my first household electrical repair and am having a time doing it. So I had a flush mount light fixture stop working (2 socket). So I replaced the bulb sockets because they were all corroded. Now when I got everything unhooked I have 3 sets of wires going to this junction box. So I have 3 whites, 3 blacks, and 3 grounds. When I took it down they were all a mess, and only 2 grounds were hooked up.

So after changing the sockets, I joined the two blacks and made a pigtail and joined both whites and made a pigtail. I hooked all the blacks together, all the whites, and just left the grounds hanging and not touching anything. Only because they were too short to reach back after I cut them.

I hooked it all up and the light just stays on non stop. Lightswitch has no effect, also this just has 1 switch to power it.

I had a buddy tell me it was a switch leg and to find the only hot wire, hook it to the light switch black. Then the white from the switch goes to the black on my light fixture black. So I did that and had nothing, no light, switch on off didn’t make a change. What confused me with that was I had a set of wires just hanging there, not hooked up, thought maybe they needed to be included. Idk I’m stumped, old lady is second guessing my handywork, no kitchen light, aggghhhh.

Someone gimme a hint on what I’m missin here lol


texts: What are the options to increase doorway height in load-bearing portion of foundation wall?

texts:
Question: What are the potential options for increasing doorway height in a load-bearing portion of a cinder block foundation wall?

Background: I am considering finishing my basement, but there is an obstruction in a foundation wall that violates the applicable Ohio Residential Code Section 305 Exception 2: "Habitable spaces created in existing basements shall be permitted to have ceiling heights of not less than 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm). Obstructions may project to within 6 feet, 4 inches of the basement floor." While I am planning to schedule a consultation with a structural engineer, I would like to know what types of options exist so I can do some research beforehand since a structural engineer's time does not come cheap.

Obstruction Details: A cinder block foundation wall runs through the middle of my basement. There is a single opening in the wall to allow passage between the two sides of the basement. At the top of the opening, there is a layer of brick with a thin steel strap underneath (~1/8" thickness) which extends down to within 6' 3.5" of the floor. This is prior to the addition of any finishing materials. The brick is supporting floor joists and a load-bearing wall on the first floor of my ranch home.

Note: I added an answer to account for applying for a variance, but I do not like this option because I plan to use the basement as an entertaining space. I do not like the thought of the tall members of my family hitting their head on this low-hanging brick obstruction.


texts:
Yesterday, our kitchen faucet suddenly stopped working. Water pressure has always been fine, but now there is only a trickle. It's a single handle faucet and both the hot and cold will not work. I have a reverse osmosis water filter next to it that still works fine, and I know the shutoff valves are open. I cleaned the aerator and even took off the sprayer, and still very little water comes out from the hose, so I don't think it's a clogged sprayer.

Any suggestions?


texts: I need to run wire underground, in conduit to my chicken coop for two light bulbs, a fan, and in winter a oil-filled heater.  What size wire do I use?  It's on a 20 amp breaker.   Approx distance from breaker box to chicken coop is 40 feet.


texts: How should I prepare the base of a small paver brick retaining wall

texts:
Am building a low retaining wall which will rise 7" above the soil line.
I am using 8" x 4" extra paver bricks from a recently constructed walkway.
The wall will measure 48" long with 24" sides

How deep of a crushed stone base should I lay as a foundation for this small wall?
I plan to use construction adhesive to bond these bricks together

Should the bottom course of bricks be below the soil line?