texts: How to know when an asphalt shingle roof needs to be replaced?

texts: Is there a way to inspect a roof to know whether the asphalt shingles need to be replaced?


texts: How do I change a light bulb I can't grip?

texts:
We have two bulbs in our house that need replacing. They appear to be PAR38 bulbs.

The bulbs are both in recessed sockets. There is not enough space between the bulb and the well to get fingers around. The bulbs are in too firmly to budge with what little torque we can exert from the face. Obviously, we don't want to try anything that would break them.

A Google search for "bulb changer" yields some promising results, but I figured I'd ask some humans to be sure.


texts: I have a GFCI receptical with the trip indicator amber.  It wiil not reset and the testor is showing open hot. 1. How can I get a lit test light, if there is an open hot?  I replaced the receptical and got the same results. When I open the circuit breaker, the test light goes out. 2'. What should I try next?


texts: Seperating bathroom light and exhaust fan on single switch

texts: I have a single switch that turns on both the bathroom light and a separate exhaust fan at the same time. I want to change this to be able to power them on independently via a dual rocker switch or two switches. I have read that I may have run a new wire for the exhaust fan. I'm a bit confused on the wiring and need clarification on which wires are which. I have three wires crimped together with a wire nut which one wire seems to be going to one of the terminals.  Would this be possible without running a separate wire for the exhaust fan?


texts:
I had a toilet that stank, pulled it to figure out what was going on. Looks like the flange had been broken in the past and repaired, subfloor all around the flange was rotten. Tried getting the old flange out, but I think it was installed with primer. Cut out the rotten sub floor, can now see that the flange went directly into what I think is called a sanitary tee.

I can't seem to get the old flange out (already cracked part of the tee it attaches too) so now aren't sure what to do. A bunch of google results tell me you're not even supposed to use a sanitary tee horizontally like this.

What is the best approach here? Somehow try to get the remainder of the flange out of the tee then put a new one in? Cut out that tee and put something else in? One issue is that 'upstream' (I think to vent?) of the tee there isn't a lot of room to couple new pipe there.

Here's the (broken) tee with the partially removed flange

side view of the Tee

Upstream view:

Downstream view


texts: Is it ok to use a shower that just has the backerboard installed and not yet tiled?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out the timing of redoing my shower. I'm looking at installing a new tub with a tile surround. I'd like to demo the current setup and install the tub and backerboard (and sealant) one weekend and then do the tiling the next weekend.

Since this is my only shower, can I use the shower after putting up the backerboard and sealing it without yet tiling and not mess up the backerboard?


texts: Plywood floor gets inexplicably wet, what could possibly be the cause?

texts:
House is on piers with insulation underneath. We had a plumber come look at it and he says he sees no pipes there, has no idea, cannot help. Every day there is about a 4 ftx4ft area of light water, with outlying smaller patches of water or moisture visible on the plywood. No one lives there while we are renovating.

So, what are the long-term and short term consquences if we place laminate flooring on this large wet spot? My family does not believe my predictions, so perhaps they will believe you.

I do this type of stuff for a living, btw. My paying clients follow my advice. This here is a family thing.


texts: How bad is this quartz countertop seam (color mismatch)?

texts: Reality check here. The seam fits together quite well, but my wife and I were unpleasantly surprised by the degree of the color mismatch. Is that considered normal?


texts: How do I know if an asphalt surface needs planing or not?

texts:
Outside my house and my neighbours houses (UK) is a stretch of about 35m x 7m of private road. I'm talking to various companies about them resurfacing the road. They are split into two groups:

Some are saying the road is in a very bad state of repair, and needs to be planed off (i.e. the existing road surface scraped off) before laying a new base and top asphalt/tarmac surface.
The others are saying the existing surface is generally ok to use as a base, and only about 10sqm needs to be dug out and filled where it's broken up. So they are saying they would just lay a new surface on top of the existing.

How do I know which is the right approach? What is the usual point at which a road is deemed to need digging up and rebuilding from the base layer?


texts:
I bought my first home (townhouse) I want to install a smart thermostat
I have only one HVAC and the thermostat is located in the main floor.
I have noticed that upstairs is hotter than the main floor, ecobee 4 has sensors you can buy for each room.
If I only have one furnace is this an overkill since the HVAC will blow air to the whole house?


texts: Are junction boxes needed for LED strip light wiring splices?

texts:
Are junction boxes required for 24v splicing in the United States?  Are small plastic enclosures sufficient or would you use standard junction boxes for 110v?

The application is a 24v lighting system operating on a trunked design.  Each trunk would power ~85w of LED strips.

Transformer: 24v 500w 3 circuit output -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU8QBCO
LED strips: 24v @ 4.4w
per foot - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014600JN2


texts: Can I just replace the heating coil in my dryer, or do I have to do the whole element?

texts: My dryer heating coil in my heating element broke in two. It seems like it'll be simple enough to just put a new coil in and be on my way. The part is available and this move would save me about $40. Which is good; I'm not exactly rolling in it right now. The thermal fuse is still good and everything else in the dryer has worked fine; are there any reasons I should spend the extra money and replace the whole thing, or is just swaping to a new coil sufficient?


texts: Are there suppliers that will sell 20A non TR outlets?  From all the grief I've read about the TR outlets, when I wire my garage, I would rather mount all the outlets 5.5 feet off the ground, and use non-TR outlets.


texts: Will a combo afci/gfci breaker solve my light switch neutral issue

texts:
So I'm in the process of adding a smart switch to my exterior lights which is on a gfci protected circuit. With the way the house is currently wired the lights are wired upstream of the gfci(which I added before)
The issue is I believe is the neutral wire is after the lights connected to the line side of the gfci causing a voltage difference tripping the gfci. I've confirmed this is the case because the gfci only trips when the lights are turned on and by bypassing the current neutral wiring and connecting a new neutral wire from  the light(white wire) to the load side neutral wire. This works.
It's not convenient to run another neutral wire back the the load side of the gfci so I'm thinking if I replace the breaker with the gfci everything will be downstream on the load side and it should work.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
Thanks!
Edit: would this configuration work? I realize I should have made the lines coming from the switch to the lights red(hot)


texts: Is there a way I can get the shower arm to tighten in the 12 o'clock position?

texts: I bought an extender arm for my shower head, but when it screws tight the arm doesn't end up in the 12 o'clock position. I've had some progress of tightened position with teflon tape, but it's not predicatable and loosens easy. Is there a better way?


texts: Ceiling fan running slow and making noises, or not running at all

texts:
****New update new pictures!****
Ok I took the voltage meter to both of my capacitors and got no voltage from either. However in the photos they are in tact and have not blown. Before I end up buying a whole new ceiling fan, I would like to save a bit of money and buy replacement capacitors
The only problem is I have searched for hours trying to find an exact duplicate capacitor and couldn't find anything close. Can I order a different capacitor and what would I need to look for in order to supply the correct voltage?

I have a ceiling fan in my master bedroom that I have been having a problem with that I cannot diagnose. As of late, every time I flip the switch to turn it on, it starts spinning really really really slow, and then  after a while I will hear some sort of click or knock noise and then the fan starts spinning normally. However, after 20 minutes or so, I hear that same same click or knock noise and it slows down extremely slow.
It's now at the point that, when I turn it on, it won't do anything!
I'm not sure how old this fan is and I don't want to get a new one especially if this is just a cheap part fix.
Any ideas?

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ISUS.jpg)
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhJPn.jpg)


texts: How should I safely replace Central Vacuum faceplates?

texts:
The covers for the faceplates of my central vacuum system have started to break off from age. How do I safely replace these? These are technically wired for electricity right? Is this a job for an electrician?

This central vac system is one of the older ones where the powered floor brush plugs into its own outlet external from the faceplate.


texts: Variable vs Single or 2-Stage Furnace -- Noise Issue

texts: Will a much costlier variable speed be significantly quieter than a single or 2-stage furnace in a TV room where I'm adding a cold air return-- also adding central air to entire house.


texts:
I live in a 2 story city row house in Philadelphia that is over 100 years old with a flat roof.  The space between the second floor ceiling and roof grades down from the front to back - 36 inches or so to 0 when they meets in the rear.  The top floor has 3 bedrooms and a bathroom.  I already did the front and middle bedrooms, however I did not do any insulating in the ceiling space for those two rooms and regret it now and I am not willing to tear down the finished ceilings.

So now that I am doing the third bedroom, I want to insulate.  My first thought is to pull down the lathe and plaster ceiling, put a few inches of rigid foam board between the rafters, some faced fiberglass batts between the ceiling joists(they are not always 16 OC * advise please) and the put the drywall ceiling up.  Is it worth all the effort since the 2 other ceilings are not insulated at all?

I know there is the blow in loose stuff, but not sure someone can fit in in that space.  I heard that some people have contractors cut holes in the roof and shoot it in from the top, but is that inviting issues?

If the cutting in the flat roof isn't a big deal should I have it done to the entire roof? Can it be the closed cell foam to make it all air tight?

Or should I carry on and come back to the other two ceilings later, most likely blow in from above. Is it ok to have 2 different insulation schemas under the same roof?

I know I am being indecisive but I want to do the right thing now that I have the chance.


texts: How can I install a curtain rod so that it doesn't slide on the mounting brackets when opening and closing the curtains?

texts: I am hoping to install some drapes in our bedroom. In my experience, the curtain rod always slides into itself or over the mounting hardware while I am opening or closing the curtains. Is there a way I can mount it so that it stays static while I open and close the drapes?


texts: Are plumbers required to provide specs for the job they have done if asked by the homeowner?

texts:
A plumber installed a bleeder port in our upstairs bathroom and a valve to feed the frost=free facet downstairs in the garage. He never told us how the system works? The bleeder was left open and our downstairs is flooded out. The plumber created the problem because a bleeder-port isn't needed when you have a frost-free facet.
We wonder if the plumber is required to make up a plan, or specifications, and outline the project, so that inspectors and the homeowner can see if he did was what proposed? We had a contractor come in to do our heating, it's a disaster, and we got the specs and learned he didn't do anything at all as required.


texts: Gas range top burner - fuel line blocked between valve and burner orifice

texts:
I have a Frigidaire convection oven, model KGSS907SSS00.  The front left burner has a dual mode.  Inner circle on the burner (for igniting and low flame) doesn't get any gas.  Outer circle (high flame) does.  I removed the dual valve and determined both are working fine.  I blew through the gas line connecting to the problem inner burner and determined it is blocked.

I've tried blowing compressed air from both directions and remains blocked.  I tried running a small wire hose-cleaner type of metal brush down from the valve side and it reaches the blockage and can't clear it.  Trying to run the brush from the burner side hasn't worked.  I sprayed solvent and no change.

Removal of the top panel on the stove is complicated by the fact that all the burner bases are secured by very corroded screws. I already sheared one screw even after applying penetrating oil and giving it time to work.  If I have to go the route of removing them I can but am hoping to avoid if I can clean the blockage in place.

Any recommendations on how to clean the line out without removal?


texts: I ran wire from the panel box to four shop lights then to the switch. The switch only turns off the last light closest to the switch. Have I completely messed myself up or is there still a way to have the switch turn off all for lights?


texts: Why do my clothes smell when I dry them outside on line but they are fine when tumble dried?

texts:
When I tumble dry my clothes they smell fine.
When I line (outside) dry them they smell quite bad, a musty stale smell.
In both instances they have been taken out of washing machine quite quickly after the cycle has finished and smell good coming out of the machine?

Any tips on how to keep them smelling good when outside line drying?


texts: Would this buildup cause "dHE" error on an LG Tromm dryer?

texts:
Got the machine off craigslist. During the drying cycle it stops and shows the error.

The user manual tells that with  dHE error I should inspect the water supply, if the water supply is within spec, call service.

The service manual says it means "Dry heater error" and list this:

The Dry Heater is out of order.
- Replace the Dry Heater
• The connector of the Dry Heater is not connected
properly to the connector in the main PWB ASSEMBLY.
- Reconnect or repair the cannector.(sic)
• The Dry Fan Motor is out of order.
-Replace the fan motor.

Following the steps for each of the diagnostics, There's one step saying to open the motor propeler for the dry-heater assembly and check for foreign objects that may be impacting the rotation.

I didn't find any object per-se, but there is a lot of buildup there. Is it worth cleaning this up, testing, drying the machine again, or investigating further directly? I have zero experience with appliances.

I can't check if it impact the spinning while closed very well, as i can't turn it.


texts: Should I use an epoxy finish on a high traffic hardwood floor?

texts: We tried refinishing our very old hardwood floors last year but they haven't held up that well.  The floor receives very heavy walking traffic.  Perhaps two coats was not enough?  We are thinking about just buffing the floor and throwing down another coat of Synteko.  Additionally, a friend recommended that we use a two-part epoxy to cope with the heavy traffic our floor receives.  Does this sound like a good idea?


texts: I want to add 5th wire to my HVAC control with the Add-a-wire gizmo. Conceptually I understand their instruction diagram, but not completely when it comes to my HVAC layout. The HVAC is single stage forced gas heat and AC, currently controlled by a 4 wire thermostat. All very standard. But what do I do about the yellow wire? On my unit instead of being nicely tied to appropriately labeled terminals, the compressor is fed directly from thermostat's yellow wire. I was hoping someone experienced with these systems can dumb it down for me.


texts: What size wire for a 60A sub-panel at 185 feet?

texts: I have a 200 amp panel in my house. I want to run electric 185 feet buried and put in 60 amp sub panel in garage. I'm hoping this will give me 4 15 amp breakers in garage. What size wire do I need?


texts: How to hook up the C wire from my thermostat to the air handler?

texts: I already have the blue wire for the common but if anyone could tell me how to wire it to this old unit please. Could I just add it to the other yellow 24v wire from the transformer?


texts: What wire is acceptable for use in underground conduit to transmit Data/Communication? Does it need to be shielded? Are there any specifications listed in the National Electric Code? Thanks!


texts: How do I get these toilet shut off valve out?

texts:
As title says I am trying to figure out how to remove the old shut off valve from the pipe. I've been watching lot of videos, reading up on articles and all seem to deal with compression fit type but what I have at work (1st photo) and home (2nd photo) seem different from what I am dealing with. (Top photo is just a reference)

It doesn't look like it is soldered on either (at least that's what I think)


texts:
I have a stackable washer dryer combo. The dryer works on 240V and the washer works 120V, but they have 1 control panel. I don't have 240V in my new apartment, and am hoping to have the power cord switched to a 120V.
I have read that this process involves:

getting a 3 wire 120 cord-set of at least 14 gauge and a 14 gauge jumper wire.
connect neutral to neutral terminal
black to black terminal
ground to ground terminal
and jumper wire from neutral to red

I have no experience with electronics and don`t plan on doing this myself, I had an electrician come look at it for me but he has never done it before, my question is:

Does this look correct, can he or (most likely another electrician) do this?
I know it won't be code, I just need to know if it's possible.


texts: What kind of wiring to add light switches in condo

texts:
I own a Toronto condo, and as a result of a bedroom wall being added after the initial construction, light switches for the living room are inside the bedroom (like that when I bought the unit).  I want to add switches at an appropriate place on that separating wall, and thus have to go from the old switch box around a wall corner and a door frame.  The construction is metal studs.

I have consulted the CEC, but I'm unsure: what types of wiring are allowed in my case?

I'm moving 3 switches, so at minimum I'll need 7 conductors (not counting bonding).  CEC rule 12-106 says: "Where multi-conductor cable is used, all conductors of a circuit shall be contained in the same multi-conductor cable".  Does that mean I can't run 3 parallel cables for example?  I doubt I can find a 7-conductor cable, so my other option would be single wires in a conduit?  The current switch box receives 1" non-metallic tubing, but that seems more difficult to install and the path I had in mind would have 5 90-degree bends, while the maximum is 4 when running wires through it.

Finally, are these condo towers still considered residential or are there different rules to consider?


texts: Where does the voltage in a circuit go from 120v down to 0v?

texts:
I've always wondered where precisely the voltage on a circuit drops from 120v down to 0v. It's "somewhere" inside of the load (a lightbulb or whatever), but doesn't exactly make sense, because if it's just "It drops to 0 when there's resistance in the circuit", well, there's resistance in the wire the entire time, and it doesn't drop in uniform fashion throughout that circuit. So I figured I'd draw 2 things.

For the theorists: A picture eliminating the typical load to hide behind as an answer.

And the equivalent for the practitioner: A picture of witnessing someone being shocked and trying to know where it's safe to touch them (if at all) to pull them off the line.

Edit: The guy getting shocked shows voltages listed, but no meter / or where the voltage is tested from. But it's implied that if you saw a hot (120v) wire from an outlet, the voltage is the difference between that wire and ground. The idea of the pictures is to help pinpoint the idea that no one is talking about where exactly the point is that the voltage steps down from 120v to 0v.


texts: Cleaning the lint or is it insulation from my gas dryer

texts:
I'm wanting to clean the lint out of my clothes dryer, I bought an attachment for the main area and hose but I see what I think must be lint inside the back panel as well, if I remove the panel what kind of problems will I get in to? The material looks and smells like it's been scorched too, so I am kind of worried about what problems I'm going to run into. By the way the dryer is gas.
Thank you for the info/help in advance,


texts: How do 5 light switches in 2 boxes with all black wires work?

texts:
I'm attempting to replace some switches and have opened up two of the boxes in my bathroom.  I've found that for all the switches (5 total switches in 2 different boxes) they only use black wires.

In one of the boxes, there are 4 distinct sheathed groups of wires, which each sheath containing 3 wires: black, white, and copper.  All 4 of the white wires are joined into a single wire nut, as are all 4 of the copper wires plus an additional one screwed into the back of the box.  The other box is the same (but only has 2 switches and 3 sheathed bundles).

I am super perplexed by this setup.  When I test for continuity I get it between some of the black wires in one box and in the other box, as well as between some combos of wires within a single box.  One of my switches even has a wire jumping between it and another switch (see photos).

If necessary I can try to draw a continuity diagram.  Part of the reason I started working on this was because I had one switch that needed to be jiggled to work, but if jiggled the right way, it would turn OFF a light that is controlled by a switch in the other box.

So here are my questions:

Is this correct/safe
How is this even working when it seems like it's only using hot wires making one big circuit. Why aren't any white/neutral wires used?
Should I use the ground wires for new switches that have ground connections, and if so, do they need to be matched with the sheathed bundle that has each switch's black wire, or are they all going to the same place.
How can I add a timer switch that has red, green, black, and white connections (load, ground, hot, neutral).  (See photos)


texts: Latest IBC code for residential regarding tempered glass requirement - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

texts:
In the home inspection report, it was stated that: "a Qualified window contractor to correct as determined necessary the master bathroom window in the shower has no tempered etching. (should have safety glass)"
The location of the current non-tempered glass window is 5'3" from the shower floor.  The window size is 2'10 5/16" x 2' 9 3/4".  The window is original from 2017 brand new construction.  If this requires tempered glass, kindly share with me the specific section in the code where it states this requirement.  Thank you.


texts: Metal Studs - How they should be installed?

texts: What is the way metal stud should be installed? Is there a reason they should be, a same way, as in upside down? And precut - holes line up.


texts: Estimated strength of U-profile shelf standards?

texts:
I would like to make a table, which is only supported by 4 of these U-profiles. Two on each end will be screwed in a brick wall.
The shop doesn't have any specs on the U-profiles.
Question
Assuming I can align the U-profiles exactly, so each only have to carry 1/4th of the tables weight. How many kg can I expect each U-profile can carry?


texts:
I'm finishing my basement (actually its the second basement I've finished).  And I've built what I think is a bedroom in the basement.  I had the ELECTRICAL inspector in here the other day and as he's going through the inspection he says: "So this isn't going to be a 'legal' bedroom, because it has no closet?"  It's always been my understanding that a bedroom does NOT require a closet.

Does a bedroom have to have a closet?


texts:
I installed a new vanity and sink, and found that the sink drain doesn’t line up with the p trap (also, incidentally, I’ll need a tailpiece extension - but that’s not my question).

I am trying to move the p trap but the swivel nut on the distal part of the p trap (pictured) is extremely stuck despite channellock pliers. Can I cut the abs just past the elbow and will there be a piece that fits over the cut end? Or should I cut all the way back at the PVC of the sanitary piece?


texts: Attaching a pergola (or deck) to vinyl siding

texts:
Building a structure which is attached to a house usually involves a plate which is bolted to the existing building, typically a 2x8, or 2x10.  I understand how to structurally attach this, my concern is working with the existing vinyl siding.

If I just bolt my structure to the house, I understand I risk damage to the siding (shattering), leaks around the bolts, and it would just be unsightly to have the siding looking crushed around the edges.

But...  if I cut the siding back, I'm not sure how to install flashing under the existing siding.  Or will J-moldings be sufficient?  I'm also not sure how I can cut siding properly while it's in place on the house.

Are there any known (good) techniques for adding a structure to a building with vinyl siding?


texts: I have about a 20 foot run for the outdoor compressor to my main breaker box. Can I use 8 gauge wire instead of 10 gauge? (because I already have this length and gauge.)


texts: How can I safely reinforce my garage trusses to support ceiling drywall and insulation?

texts:
Recently bought a home that came with a double detached garage. The garage is older, perhaps from the 70s? It uses what looks like an early adoption of a truss framed roof. The trusses look like they might have been built on-site, using a variation of queen-post (fan?).

Problem

The previous owner mistakenly decided to store various items across the trusses, causing sag. The sag is visible from on the apex of the roof from end-to-end (bowed), and between the ends of individual trusses (sagging in the middle).

When the previous owner moved out, they removed the junk, and I can see that the problem has corrected itself fairly substantially. I am concerned that if I just strap up drywall, that I will be applying more load that what the trusses were meant for, inevitably making the problem of sagging and distortion worse.

Question

What should I do to prevent this from getting worse?
How can I introduce sufficient strength into the trusses and related
structure to allow for drywall and insulation to be added safely?

Ideas

Jack up the centre of the trusses, then reinforce each bottom chord with a 2x4 that spans the entire width of the garage.
Jack up the centre, reinforce (as above), and also replace any wood strapping  with steel mending plates, hurricane ties, etc.)
Leave it as is, strap up drywall, pray to the gods.

Photos


texts: How does Schlage SecureKey Re-keying mechanism work?

texts:
Here is their consumer info. And here is an amateur teardown, although I can't tell from the pictures how the thing actually works. Does any one have any better powers explanation?

But beyond just being curious about the internal workings, the real question is how it compares to a regular pin-tumbler lock for security, smooth operation, longevity, etc?


texts: How do I toubleshoot Intermitant failure with an AFCI breaker?

texts: Six months ago I remodeled my kitchen.  Even though nobody is using AFCI breakers or recepticles in my area, I decided to use AFCI/GFCI receptacles as opposed to GFCI's.  The particular circuit in question is a 20 amp circuit run on new 12/2. I've double checked connections at both ends.  They are good. The only thing on this circuit is the AFCI receptacle and 1 additional receptacle, running off the load side of the AFCI.  No issue's until about a week ago.  Then one morning, no power.  I unplugged everything and tried resetting the receptacle, but it tripped.  At that point, not being used to AFCI I forgot to check whether that was a GFCI or AFCI trip?  We had a mouse issue a week before and I assumed it may have chewed through some of the insulation.  This Saturday when I went to re-run the line, it was fine.  I tested it a few times to make sure it came back on.  I also put a pretty decent load on it to test.  No issues.  What could have caused this?  Is there something I could do to troubleshoot or prevent this in the future?


texts:
I have a Honeywell thermostat & keeps on flashing "change UV Lamp"

Where would I find the UV lamp installed in the system, & how do I replace it?


texts: How should I center a light fixture when there's a vent stack in the way?

texts:
I've got a wastewater vent stack that is dead-center behind the master bath vanity. (See attached picture.) Previously, there was a single light fixture. You can still see the box, which wasn't mounted to anything and which was off center. (It was a new work box, and I have NO idea what held it in place while they hung drywall. The sheathing on this house is DennyBoard, and it certainly wasn't affixed to that.)

How should I mount a new box in order to be code-compliant? I am in Texas, and my city has recently adopted the 2011 electrical code. I am a homeowner doing my own work under the homestead exemption -- my city would normally require this work to be done by a licensed electrician. Everything I have done so far has passed without modification.

I can either move the soil stack to the side and install a piece of wood, or I might be able to mount something like a ceiling fan box that would allow me to adjust the position of the fixture horizontally, but I'm not sure how to make that work.

Since the circuit already has the maximum number of fixtures on it, I cannot install two light fixtures with one on either side of the soil stack without running a new circuit back to the panel. I can do that, but I'd rather avoid it.

Installing an old work box is not legal according to the inspector since I have the walls open (drywall had to come down to fix other issues.) I didn't ask if I could in theory mount the box to the PVC pipe somehow, but I intensely dislike that idea anyway. He told me, without mincing words, that it was my job to figure out how to do it and his to tell me if I'd done it right or wrong, and if I wasn't sure I should call a real electrician.


texts: What could be causing these oddities when replacing a power socket?

texts:
Yesterday I replaced a power socket in my home. Before hand, I plugged a light into the socket, switched it on, then flipped the relevant switch in the fuse box and verified the light was out.

When replacing the socket, two strange things happened:

1) When I wired in the ground wire to the new plug, it tripped one of the two RCD switches in the fuse box, resulting in half the sockets/lights in my home going off.

2) I left the RCD switch tripped and carried on. When screwing the new socket in, I swear I got a tingling sensation in my arm, like a very mild electric shock. I was sitting on a sofa the whole time so not really in contact with much.

Do these things sound normal? The new plug works but it's metallic and I'm now terrified to touch the thing!


texts: Material Identification: Bath tub front cover

texts:
While renovating a bathroom in a quite old house in germany, we removed the cover holding the tiles on the front side of the bathtub and could not clearly identify the material. It seems to be interwoven strands of wood(?) with a dark paint covering them.

One person was afraid it might be asbestos paint - If someone here knows what it is, please help us satiate our curiosity and hopefully put that worry at rest.

Here's some pictures, tell me in the comments if I can provide anything else to help!

overview, a mat of dark strands

closer view of the edge, with some strands having partially lost their paint


texts: Fan in tiny bathroom has no vent. Is there a better option to absorb/reduce moisture/odors?

texts:
I lease an apartment and was just cleaning the light/fan combo (a NuTone NUA-40LN) in the ceiling of my very tiny but full bathroom and realized the fan in the ceiling is just blowing air around, but not actually out anywhere.
It's an old unit, and I imagine there might be better options now for folks who can't vent outward.
I live in an old building and my landlord isn't likely to pay for any sort of line. But I could make the case for replacing this unit and would be cool with doing it myself if you know of better options. Thanks in advance!


texts: How do I clean cooking oil off a steel fence?

texts:
My next door neighbor decided to saturate panels of our steel fence with cooking oil to stop the rust (which was expected and is a desired patina).

How can we get rid of the old oil smell and get the oily stain off the fence?


texts: Water from bathroom basin taps flow changes

texts:
Please firstly excuse my stupidity if this is a simple matter..... But I wonder if someone could tell me why the flow of the hot water reduces when I turn on the cold tap (they are separate, although the same happens with the kitchen mixer tap)?  Might this be due to the configuration of the pipes.... I thought that the sources were different, with the hot needing to go through the (combi) boiler, but the cold not having anything to do with that.... Of course, I know nothing much (at all) about these things :o/

Also, there is some kind of nasty black build up inside of the taps themselves, which I attempt to remove but gradually builds up again.
This is 2006-built rented property of rather dubious construction in some aspects, so I suspect that a half-hearted job has been done overall..... The landlord is not any help and I am not a DIY-er where plumbing is concerned.  I purchased new taps but he will not fit them and besides, I do wonder if the problem is somewhere in  the piping....?
The water from the supplier is not contaminated.

I hope someone can help or advise me; I have brushed teeth with bottled water for two years now :o(
Best wishes.


texts: Installing a repair kit on an old toilet

texts:
I'm looking to install a repair kit on an old toilet (to replace the dual flush conversion which just doesn't work). I have a korky complete toilet repair kit which includes a fill valve and a flush valve, but looking at my toilet I'm not sure this will even work. The flush valve in particular has a screw thread end and a sponge gasket, but my toilet has a metal pipe between the bowl and the tank, which appears to end at the tank with a screw thread of it's own.

Is it possible to make these work together or do I need something else for a toilet of this vintage?

Also note: the tank is actually bolted to the wall!


texts: Trying to find the transformer for my doorbell

texts:
I replaced our doorbell with a Ring doorbell about a month or two ago. It worked fine at first, but gradually started not connecting to the network, and after I followed a few steps suggested by the technician, it doesn't seem to getting any voltage at all. He said it was probably either a chime issue, or the transformer. I tried replacing the chime, but didn't get any change in results, so now I'm trying to find the transformer. Unfortunately, the house was partially wired by the owner, who I can't get ahold of anymore (and yes, I know that generally you don't contact the prior homeowner after purchase), and I'm quite confused. My best guess for the doorbell wire looks like it snakes back to this:

I haven't been able to budge the screws in it yet to test it with my multimeter (I'm getting 0V at the screws), but does this look like it might be a transformer of some sort?

I've tried testing the voltage at my chime (0 V) and at the wires in the front (0 V), assuming that I was correct in testing the two wires at each of those locations, and I wasn't supposed to bridge two of them to get the reading.

Just to follow up, I was able to get the screws off (and unfortunately lost both in the process), and sticking my multimeter into the holes does yield 18 V. I managed this after getting off the phone with the Ring guy, who'd assured me that this was not a transformer and that I'd need to call an Amazon-recommended electrician...

So now I need to get replacement screws and then see if I can find a break further down the wire.


texts:
I am going to install a pavilion on a concrete slab.  I was wondering, if I install 4 ft concrete footers, should the top of the column be flush with the top of the slab to be poured, or the column be just to the top of the bottom of the slab to be poured, where the rest of the concrete covering the footer would be from the slab.  Any info would be great.

thanks


texts: How should I deal with dampness coming from the mountain behind the walls?

texts:
I have a house whose back part is built into the surrounding mountain. The walls of the two back rooms are slightly humid. In addition, they are poorly ventilated.

In some spots, the plaster wall is coming off. Here is what we managed to remove with a spatula, applying no pressure:

This seems to be a pretty common sight around here. The locals tend to apply a waterproof coating to any walls that have this.

However, that method eventually leads to bubbles forming in the wall, and we're not sure whether it is the best way to go.

What should we do?


texts: Recommended method to insulate a raised (joisted) floor in the UK?

texts:
We're just about to get a new wood-burning stove fitted with an external air feed and have a load of squeaky floorboards which need fixing in the same room, so we're planning on taking the floor up.

Since the floor is coming up, it seems sensible to get some insulation in while we're at it.

I've read that a reasonable approach is to nail / staple netting to the underside of the joists and then layer rock-wool on top (without compressing it). Then add a vapour barrier on top of the joists but under the floor boards.

Is that the right way to do this or are there better ways to insulate a raised / joisted floor in the UK? Bear in mind that there's only about 1.5ft of clearance under the floorboards so this will have to be done from above.


texts: Why isn't my thermostat clicking on/off automatically?

texts: My thermostat is not clicking on/off automatically, I have called my landlord and they replaced a very old one with a brand new one and it is still not clicking on off automatically, but will manually. I have called them up again to tell them it still only works if I manually change it and they have been and replaced it again but it's still not working!! So I am going to try and sort it out myself. Can anyone give me any idea as to what is wrong and how I can fix it?


texts: Where can I find information on slow blow breakers?

texts: In a previous question, the comments mentioned slow blow circuit breakers. I have done a web search and went to Square-D's website(the maker of my current breakers) and came up empty. There is a lot about curves and such but nothing that makes sense to this laymen. Can anybody help?


texts:
I have a 1994 Heil gas furnace in a house that I've owned for only a few months. At certain points in the day, unfortunately usually in the middle of the night, the furnace motor starts, runs for about 5 seconds, and then shuts down. Another 5 or so seconds pass, and the cycle repeats. I've let this cycle repeat up to 60 times to see if anything else happens, and as far as I know, it will continue until I do something.

Here's the kicker: the air temp (as per the thermostat) is always above the thermostat set point, e.g., the air is 67F and the thermostat is set to 64F. So thermostat is not asking for heat. As soon as I manually raise the thermostat set point to the air temp, the furnace immediately fires up and runs normally.

I've had two different HVAC companies inspect the furnace. Both of them shrugged and said there wasn't much they could do unless the problem was happening in front of them, which isn't helpful for something that mostly happens after midnight.

I could replace the thermostat, but my understanding of thermostats is that they're either telling the furnace to make heat or not doing that, so it doesn't seem likely to be a problem with the thermostat.

Any ideas? Besides spending $4k on a new furnace, of course.


texts: I want to install a 220 heater in my garage. The heater draws 31 amps. The run will be 26 feet. Would I use a 40 amp breaker and and N0. 10 wire?


texts: How can I tile over a floor where hardwood is attached directly to joists?

texts:
My condo building in Boston was built in 1905, and converted from a hotel in the 1950's. Repairing some damaged hardwood in the livingroom the contractor found that the hardwood was nailed directly to the joists, no subfloor of any kind. A surprise!

At the opposite end, a hallway has a sloping floor, side to side, which I would like to correct. I am loathe to try to 'match' the color of the original with new (nailed to sistered, leveled joists), and don't have the height necessary to add subfloor plus new topping (tile or wood) as the front door swings over the sloping floor, one on each side.

The question: I have thought of pretending the hardwood floor is the subfloor, shimming it with purlins every two inches (yes, correct), and screwing concrete board to that and then setting tile. (I think I have height just for that, but not for subfloor, floor, backerboard, then tile.) Do-able?

I'm guessing this is a terrible idea, but it's all I can think of. I can shave the closet door (on the downslope side) but not the other door, which is the front door to the unit, is metal, and can't be easily altered. I'd love to bring up the original hardwood, sister the joists to level, then put the wood back down, but I suspect I will lose a lot in the process and don't want it to look like a patch job.

Suggestions, even brickbats cheerfully accepted. (Note: area is an entrance hallway, about 12'x4', sagging in the middle and level at both ends, and typical of older buildings in the area. 5th floor, can't "jack up" the building.)


texts: How to add a lamp on the other side of the switch series?

texts:
I have a fairly standard setup here. A lamp controlled by 3 switches, the middle of which is a 4-way switch (but I think that's fairly irrelevant). I would like to add an extra lamp, controlled by the same 3 switches. It would be no problem if it were near the first lamp, but it is actually right next to the switch named S2 below. I can't run another wire back from S3 to S2. How can I wire things?

I was thinking of adding an SPST relay near S2 as shown below. Would that work? Is there a better solution?


texts:
I have a 5 gang switch box I'm trying to calculate how many "conductors" I can have in it. Basically my main question is, do wires that originate and terminate inside the box count as +1 each (wires in nuts/splices going to switch)? Or is it only wires that originate outside the box and come into it?

I have a 63in³ (2.75x2.5x9.25) box with 5x standard switches, I'm looking to replace with zwave switches. From my calculations I have (all 14ga):
+12 Hot/Neutral wires coming into the box (2 from breaker panel, 10 feeding the 5 lights)
+1 Ground (6 bare ground coming in/out but only 1 counts for this?)
+1 wire clamps in the box
+10 Devices ( 5 switches, counts as 2 each)
+3 Traveler wires (Do these count?)

So if it's that simple, I need at least a 54in³ and I'm good. But my question is what about the spliced short wires that originate and terminate in the box? So if all 6 of my neutrals (for the 5 switches and 1 live) are bonded together under a wire nut, then I run a neutral from that bond to each of the switches, that's +5 more spliced wires, do they need to get counted? And if I do similar for ground and hot that's another +10. Then I get into more fun dilemmas like max conductors in a wire nut and making splicing chains (my GB reds say only 5x #14).

It's a really ugly layout I wish they had split this up into different boxes, but I want to convert this whole thing so it can be put on my HA system. The current layout of 5x 2-wire switches has a lot less wires in the box so box fill isn't as much of a concern, but considering smart switches need both neutral and ground running to them as well it adds a lot more to that box. It's going to be really cramped with all the splices/wire nuts.

Anything else I'm not considering?

Thanks!


texts: Is there a purpose for reveal between window jamb and casing (other than aesthetics)?

texts:
Hopefully this question is answerable. When making up window trim, there is typically a small reveal between the jamb and the casing. Is there a reason for having this, other than aesthetics / tradition?
Possible things that came to my mind, but I don't know if these are valid: easier to install, easier to hide imperfections.
I found this image that should clarify which pieces I'm talking about - jamb and trim/casing.


texts: For many reasons I have a long run of garden hose exposed to the sun. The  water source is always on but the outlet opens and closes intermittently. Some times the water doesn't flow for many hours.  On really bright hot days the hose sometimes bursts. Is there an inline pressure relief valve I can put into the hose to prevent the raised pressure from bursting the line?  This has happened several times to date.


texts: paint a wall where the surface is uneven

texts:
I have remove most of the wallpaper in my kitchen, to be able to paint it.

However, the surface is uneven and I'm not sure what kind of products I can use to make the wall smoother and to apply painting on it.

A friend of mine suggested to sand down the wall.

What do you think of that suggestion?

If this is not the right suggestion, what else can I do?

Thanks


texts: Question on Wiring for a new light fixture

texts:
I am replacing a old florescent light with a LED.

I have two light switches that control the light. In the wiring box, there are two white, two red, two black and one ground/copper wire. I did not take a picture prior to undoing the wiring on the old light. The two black wires as shown were capped as it. I only removed the white, red and ground wire from the old light as shown.

Based on the new light (pic) I am looking for thoughts in wiring this led correctly.


texts: How can liquid enzymatic drain decloggers reach the clog in a toilet drain?

texts:
I added liquid enzymatic drain "declogger" (brand: Earthworm) to a clogged toilet drain that I already tried plunging.

How are the enzymes supposed to reach the clog, unless the clog is in the first half of the P-trap?  If the clog is already beyond that, it seems like the enzymes will just be working in the area of the drain already cleared.


texts: Are an outlet and a light bulb at the main electrical panel required?

texts: I've heard that the main electrical panel needs a GFCI outlet right next to it, and it also needs a switch to an overhead light.   But I can't find anything on the net to confirm.


texts: Reconciling high ceilings with New England cold weather

texts:
One particular problem with typical New England architecture is that the ceilings are ordinarily low because of cold temperatures and cost of heating. If a ceiling is high, the hot air from radiators rises and collects at the top of the room, so a temperature differential arises. Essentially the homeowner is paying to keep the top of the room at 80F so the living space below is 72F.

Using low ceilings is not a problem in a small house, but the larger the room, the more disproportionate a low ceiling becomes. For example, in a room 24x14, an 8-foot ceiling makes the room seem like a basement, having a cramped feeling.

Is there a strategy for reconciling these conflicting needs, energy efficiency and high ceilings?


texts: I purchased a building that has an old ADT hard wired alarm system.  I have a full set of cameras installed that allows me to monitor the building, so I would like to upgrade the alarm to one of the newer systems that simply makes noise and notifies your phone if triggered instead of having it monitored.  All the door sensors and motion detectors from the old system work great and I would like to utilize them.  Is it possible to purchase and install a kit that will do this allowing me to use the existing sensors and if so, where do I look/what am I looking for?


texts:
I’m trying to locate the sewer cleanout. I found a box that looks like it contains it but there are 3 separate plugs. Which one should I use?

I also found this which I’m guessing is something else


texts: This is about 8" of metal crown molding that got rusty because water penetrated to it. I fixed the roof leak and am now repairing the inside. What can I do to prime this rusty peace of metal (maybe remove the rust?) so that it gets painted over, preferably with no or little recognition?


texts:
My fascia boards for the entire house are in good shape, but the paint is peeling.  I want to get on a ladder and repaint them.  My questions deal with the preparation.

Can I power wash the fascia boards or is scraping the only option?

If power washing is okay, how long do I need to let them dry before priming?

If power washing, is blowing roof shingles off unintentionally a possible pitfall?  If so, how  do I avoid doing so?


texts: How many wires can safely be secured in a Marrette 33 wire nut?

texts:
I need to secure four 14 AWG solid copper wires and I have black wire nuts stamped Marrette 33, which look something like in the following photo except that the spring is copper:

Should it be ok? I don't have the packaging, and I have not found information on the wire limits. There seems to be a new color scheme now on newer wire nuts and wing nuts.

My impression is that four 14 AWG solid wires seem really at the limit, possibly past it. The four wires seem tightly secured in that I can't pull the wire nut off. When I undid the wire nut to check on the wires, they are quite indented by the wire nut's screw, but they did not twist together. With so many wires, they also don't go in as deep, so a couple of millimetres of the stripped part of wires is still visible below the edge of the wire nut. The wires were stripped to the same length as the textured portion of the wire nut. I estimate the wires are about 1 centimetre into the wire nut screw.

For context, this is an "inherited" situation at an outlet which has four 14/2 cables coming into the box, plus a two wire light fixture mounted to it. They are the line in, continuing line to the rest of the circuit, cable to the switch for the light fixture, plus another line to an outlet next to the fixture. This is in a bathroom.

Previously, there were up to five wires (four solid copper and one stranded wire from the fixture) attached together with solder, wire nut, and electrical tape. I have reorganized slightly by replacing the cable to the adjacent (formerly "razor only") outlet with 14/2 cable since the previous one had no ground wire, and removing it from the switched circuit. Now only 4 wires are at any connection.

I have not soldered the wires, and have just used wire nuts. Especially given how packed the box is, I'm a bit uneasy about any exposed live wires, so either I'll get larger wire nuts if these ones aren't suitable, or maybe just use electrical tape with the existing setup. Aside from not having larger wire nuts handy, I'm also hesitant due to the space constraints in this box.


texts: Are 2x4 rafters legal in Connecticut? 13 ft runs

texts:
so I bought a REO house and about to redo the roof above the garage.
I've noticed that I need to replace some rafters.
However - I'm seeing that rafter are 2x4...

Is that code-legal?

p.s. by 13 ft - I also count the length it protrudes to the outside of the wall.


texts: Identify Hot and Neutral Line on Vintage Clock

texts:
I am working on a vintage clock, and in order to make it safer, I would like to replace the cord with a more modern UL-approved cord.

First things first, I am trying to identify the hot and neutral lines of the current cord, but I'm having a hard time distinguishing between the two.

The metal prongs appear to be exactly the same size. The wire itself doesn't have a ridged side, but it does have one side that is slightly embossed with the words "General Electric L Flamenol"

Looking at what I think is the clock motor, there doesn't appear to be any indicator of a positive or neutral side.

As far as I can tell, the only obvious marker is the "General Electric L Flamenol" label on one side of the cord -- does anyone know if that indicates power or ground?

Below is an image of the clock model 8125 and power details for reference.

Any other feedback or safety recommendations on this undertaking are very appreciated

P.S. The ink is a little blotchy, but looks like the bottom label says "220V" -- but that seems far too high to work on a normal outlet. Is is more likely that it's actually 120V and coincidentally looks like 220V?


texts: Fuse replacement in Xantrex solar charge controller

texts:
I have a Xantrex XW-MPPT60-150 solar charge controller. The moment came where I need to replace the fuse that protects the charger. The problem is that I need to replace it with Littlefuse KLKD 1 (600V DC, 1A Fast-acting) or equivalent.

The closest I found is a BOSS ceramic fuse 500V, 2A... and I don't know if I can be sure that this fuse will protect the charge controller in case of over current.

Here's a picture of both fuses, the old one on the left and the wanna-be new one on the right:

Can anyone help with this? It's a bit urgent because I'm off grid and I don't want to harm my system, nor face a short-out.


texts: How do I remove this exterior Water Valve cap?

texts:
How do I remove this exterior water valve cap?

Bonus points for a name!

Update:
I cleaned it a bit more:

I attempted to pry it but, I haven't made much progress:

I also noticed this bolt but I don't think I have a wrench for it.


texts: Should this retaining wall have drainage

texts: Should the wall in the picture below have better drainage (e.g. perforated pipes)? And, if yes, is it possible to add them at this point? The walkway above has the same slate top you see at the very bottom of the picture.


texts:
Yesterday 4 outlets in my house stopped working.  All of the lights on the same circuit seem to work fine but as far as I know, these are the only 4 outlets on the circuit and they have all stopped working.

The switch doesn't control the outlets but the box for the switch seems to be the source of the electrical for the line of outlets.  As a result, I believe the problem is something either in the switch box or in the first gfci box or something between (hopefully not).

The switch box and first gfci are in the same bathroom and just close enough that I can stretch my voltmeter between the two to run continuity tests (audio tone).  I have disconnected the gfci in the first outlet box and tested the neutral (white) and hot (black) between both boxes.  The strange thing is that there is good continuity (solid tone) between the neutrals of both boxes but there also seems to be some continuity (broken tone) between the neutral in the switch box and the hot in the gfci box.  Is this normal?  There seems to be no continuity between the hot in the gfci box to any wire in the switch box.

In my mind, this makes me believe the wire is bad between the boxes.  Is there other possibilities here?  If so, how would I troubleshoot this further?

-edit- images of switch box and first outlet box.  Note that in the gfci box, I labeled the wires line and load when I disconnected them.  I was testing continuity between the line hot and neutral in the gfci box to the bare wires under the screw cap connectors (I took them off for testing).

-edit2- gfci is definitely good.  I hooked it up in another outlet and it functions normally.


texts: What is involved when replacing wood paneling with drywall?

texts:
In a forty-something year old home, I would like to freshen up a couple of rooms that still have wood paneling (and get rid of that "this room used to look fashionable in the 1970s" look). I would like to replace the wood panels with drywalls.

They are painted, as you see below. I'm guessing that someone at some point decided they didn't like the look of the wood panels either, but just painted over them rather than replace them.

To remove the wood panels, I'll hunt down the location of the nails, take them out, and then hopefully the panels will be easy to pull out. I am wondering:

What are the chances that there is already some kind of drywall behind the panels? This would make the task considerably simpler!
If the panels are just a couple of millimeters thick, might it be an option to just leave them where they are and fix the drywall in front of them? It would be trickier to mark the locations of the studs behind, but all-in-all it'd be a lot simpler job... and, last, but not least:
Can the "look" of the wood panels be transformed to a drywall-pretend-to-be without actually taking the panels out? Could I for instance sand the panels, fill out the ridges (with what?), and apply primer/paint? Sanding furniture to change the paint color is a lousy and intense task. Would I be looking at a similarly troubling task to make replacing the panels with drywall look like an easy task by comparison?

Update:

I thought of adding a couple of pointers to those tackling a similar project.

In stores, you are more likely to find drywall mud called joint compound.
Solution 2 above (adding a drywall in front of the wood panels) is illustrated in this video.
Solution 3 (skim-coating) is illustrated in this video. I suspect that the only difference with skim coating a wood panel is that one must apply more compound to make sure that the grooves disappear.

Yes, it's been already six months since I asked the question. Well, winter came and now I'm not sure it's reasonable to tackle such a project while the windows remain closed (or wait till Spring).


texts: Does a water softener only need to be plugged in to recharge?

texts: I gutted my house and have yet to get an outlet wired in by my water softener.  I still use hot water on occasion while I'm at the house so I want to make sure the water is still softened to avoid deposits in my water heater, pipes, and faucets.  Based on my understanding of how water softeners work, I should be able to run an extension cord to it once a week or so to recharge it, and then can leave it unplugged otherwise, correct?  There is no other reason it would need to be plugged in when it's not recharging?


texts: Why is my portable air conditioning unit increasing relative humidity?

texts: I have recently purchased a new portable air conditioning unit. For some reason when I am using it the RH increases rapidly. The exhaust pipe goes through the wall and appears to have a good seal. The BTU’s seem to be suitable for the room size. Does anyone have any suggestions on what the issue could be?


texts: Toilet gurgling when another one is flushing: 6-way joint

texts:
I have 2 adjacent bathrooms, with toilets opposite of each other. I recently upgraded one older toiled that took a minute to flush with 3.5 gallons of water to 1.2 GPF model with "aquapiston" marketing blurb. All nice and dandy, except this piston started shooting stuff up another toilet's pipe on the other side of the wall, causing it to gurgle.

This is what it looks like from below:

So the obvious reason is that vent pipe is one of the 6 pipes connected here (the house was built in 1960-s). Toilet 2 shoots stuff through the pipe directly into Toilet 1 drain. This blocks the vent, and causes Toilet 1 to gurgle until stuff starts flowing AWAY.

So, what creative solution can I apply in my situation to eliminate the problem, without completely redoing the junction? Preferably one that does not require custom fabrication of fittings :)

EDIT: White PVC pipe is a vent pipe for a sink that drains into a basement septic holding tank (not vented outdoors... Not sure why)

EDIT 2: One solution I considered was adding a Tee to the downpipe from Toilet 1, and connecting it to the vent above the 6-way connection. But space constraint makes it hard to add it, plus it looks like it'll cost me $100 in parts to add those 2 Tees. Is there a more economical way to add, say, 1" pipe connecting those? Would it fix the issue?


texts: How wide of an opening for framing cabinets

texts: This seems like it's a fairly straight forward question, but I've seen conflicting answers.   I have a U-shaped alcove that I'm going to put in four, 24" cabinets.  It seems like the rough framing should be 97" wide (4x24" + 2 x 0.5" for the drywall).  Does the opening need to be more than that?  Seems like if it were too wide than you'd have unsightly gaps.  Since the alcove is deeper than the cabinets, it seems like you'd be able to smoosh (or cut out) any drywall if the wall varied any less than 97" (well, up to 1" total of play).


texts:
I moved into a upstairs apartment- studio 425 sq feet. The building is a 2 story building. It was built in 1971.

I had a bad musky meldew smell in my apartment. My AC broke and the landlord placed a brand new one in, which helped a lot.

However, I still retain some of that sour musky smell in the apartment. I have 3 ac ducts and here is what one of them looks like in the photos.

Strangely, I still smell the odor with the windows open and AC off. But I guess it's the ducts.

My question is, I have read that some AC ducts are beyond cleaning. I don't mind spending money to get them clean just to get rid of the odor(if they are the cause). Does anyone know if these ducts are beyond cleaning or can they be cleaned? The pics below are of just one of the 3 air ducts.


texts: Is it an easy task to replace a wall thermostat?

texts:
As above, is it an easy DIY job to do this safely?

In my research into the above it has become apparant that I should consider replacing the old thermostat with a programmable one for energy savings. How does a programmable thermostat produce savings? I assumed the whole point of the thermostat in the first place was that the heating wouldn't be on if it was below the desired level anyway.


texts: What materials do we need to run gas line to laundry room?

texts: Purchased three bedroom slab ranch home. House has natural gas furnace, stove and hot water tank. There is a dedicated laundry room that has only electrical outlets for washing machine and dryer. Want to run gas line from furnace/hot water tank gas line to laundry room. What materials will we need to accomplish this task? Also, can we use flexible tubing for the gas line? Thank you.


texts: Can I reinforce a beam by cutting the rotten part away and adding an extra piece instead?

texts:
So here is the thing... I had this beam under a metallic veneer and water crept in and rot it. What I found by removing the metallic veneer, was this:

In the middle of this rotten area, parts of the wood are really eaten out and I can stick my finger in it. However, it is less than 50% of its thickness. That beam keeps the roof like in this sketch:

It seems like most of the forces from the roof would be on the sides, and not so much in the middle, which is, I think, good news.
So I'm thinking of options for this... Should I get a contractor? Should I do it myself? Should I replace the entire beam? Should I make a cut out and add a material? Should I add metallic brackets?
I think I would like to do it myself, but I would like to have some pros and cons from someone with more experience, as I never did anything like this before. I'm thinking that I will cut the rotten part, treat that area, leave it a couple of days, then fill it with another piece, like in the sketch below:

I'm thinking that by adding a Dovetail cut and a snug fit of the extra material, it will give a more structural strength than just a simple straight cut. Does anyone have any experience with this? What would be your advice on this situation? I can add metal brackets afterwards, but so far, I think this is the way to go...
EDIT: I went into the attic and noticed that the trusses look like this (see full sketch):


texts: Do building codes allow smaller nails when using gun instead of manually hammering?

texts: I would like to use a framing nail gun for a bathroom addition. Do people usually substitute a shorter nail for 16d 3.5", but keep the same quantity and spacing? Does that pass code?


texts: Extend existing exterior outlet for grill island

texts: I am wondering if running wire through conduit from an exterior outlet on my house to a grill island I am planning would be allowed in NEC code? Or will I need to run a whole new circuit?


texts: How can I replace cast iron sewer drain that goes through the basement wall?

texts: I have a 4" cast iron sewer drain going through my basement wall. I want to replace all the cast iron drain to PVC pipe. If I would to cut the cast pipe pipe going through the basement wall flush with the wall, is there a fitting I can insert into the basement wall to fit new PVC pipe. I was told by one plumber, is to actually go through the wall to replace it with new PVC pipe. On the outside of the basement I had all new PVC pipe replace with the exception of about 3" of cast iron that was used with a coupler to hook up with the new PVC pipe.


texts: First time ceiling fan installation wiring issue

texts:
I am trying to install a  ceiling fan in my bedroom for the first time. There is already a "Acceptable for Fan Support"  box installed by the builder. I looked at several videos on youtube on  how to wire fan. The wires coming from the ceiling confused me.

First, the color of wires. I see red, white and yellow. I was expecting black, white and green.

Second, red and white go back up as shown in the picture. How do I wire my fan?

Appreciate any help


texts:
I have 16 lights and receptacles that are 14 ga copper wiring except two split receptacles that are intermingled with 12 gauge wire that was placed on a 20 amp breaker? What is the best way to do this correctly?

Should I add a new 15 amp circuit breaker and conduit that should be added to correctly wired for the 16 outlet:lights and then change the two 12 intermingled (14 and 12 gauge wire receptacles;0) to 12 gauge and use the existing 20 amp breaker which feeds directly to that 20 amp breaker?


texts: Why are the areas (square footage) for carpet removal and for vinyl plank installation different?

texts:
I requested a quote (from Lowe's) to replace the existing carpet with vinyl planks. The area the quote uses to calculate the labor cost of installing the planks ("basic labor floating LVP/LVT") is about 5% larger than the area to calculate the labor cost of removing the carpet ("removal haul carpet and pad no glu [sic]"). Why is there the difference? They are for the same physical area since the project is replacing the carpet with vinyl planks.
I am new to this site. I hope this question is not off topic since I am not installing the flooring myself, but it is a technical question about a home project. Thank you!


texts: What kind of expertise is required to install a gas fireplace log?

texts:
I already have a gas igniter for my fireplace and want to replace it with a gas log.  While we do that, I'd like to also upgrade to whatever the latest safety features are for gas fireplaces.

First, I imagine this isn't a do-it-yourself job, is it?  Assuming not, what kind of professional would I seek: a plumber?  handyman?  chimney sweep?  fireplace store?


texts: How to convert eaton type BRD to type BR and is this a good idea?

texts: There seems to be a shortage of breakers around me. No one has the Eaton type BR breaker in a 20 tandem. Electrical supply house handed me a BRD type and I had heard about removing the metal plate in back but unsure how to do it and whether it's a good idea. Can't find any info on youtube...will a flat screwdriver take care of its removal?


texts: What's going on with this switch wiring?

texts:
I'm absolutely confused. I'm trying to replace a switch. Switch has 3 screw terminals. Hot, Load and Ground.

Ground is correct. If hot and load aren't on the right screw terminals the switch won't work. Other wires aren't easy to tell which are which but I tried one way and it didn't work.

I checked with my multimeter measuring voltage between one screw terminal and ground and found which side had voltage. So I reversed the hot and load wires on the screw terminals. Still nothing and even though I switched wires the when I measured voltage with my meter it was still the same screw that read the voltage even though it had a different wire on it!?!?!?!

I redid the wiring twice on each side just to make sure.

Older home built around the 50's. No neutral wire at the switch box. Any body have any clue what's going on?

The switch requires a proper ground to work and that might be the problem but I'm still confused. I used a grounding pigtail temporarily to test the switch connected to the back of the box. 2 conductor armored cable goes to the box. Old cloth wrapped type wires. Disconnected switch and checked voltage between each wire to ground. Got about 70V for one and about 40V for the other.


texts:
Our home is relatively new (built in 2014), but something I noticed is that the PVC pipe going into our furnace (which connects to the outside of the home) is developing some condensation (which can be seen as the discolored gray ring in the picture below).  My concern with this is the potential for water to reach the electrical outlet below it, posing a potential fire risk (maybe)?

Is this a valid concern?  Is there a recommendation on how to resolve this or who I could contact to help resolve it?  Is this normal behavior for this type of air return to the furnace?

This isn't a large amount of water, just a small beading around the ring where it attaches to the furnace, but figure the experts here on the site would be able to answer this much better than I could.


texts: How to convert bathroom ceiling exhaust fan to a ceiling fan

texts:
I'd like to remove a bathroom exhaust fan and in it's place install a small ceiling fan for better circulation.  This bathroom does have a window that opens so I'm not concerned about code nor moisture.  It's a large bathroom and my wife would like a small ceiling fan in it for helping to cool it down on hot days when she's putting on makeup/drying her hair, etc and it would help circulate the air conditioner air.  The ceiling our high 14' in this room.  Can I use the electrical for the ceiling fan that is used for the exhaust fan (there is no light associated with the current exhaust fan).

Thanks.


texts: Unable to screw through plaster and lath wall

texts:
I am trying screw in a 2 1/2" screw into a wall that I'm pretty sure is plaster and lath.  But when the screw is about 1 1/2" deep of drilling, it doesn't go in anymore no matter how much force I put in.  From a stud scanner, the area should be where a stud resides. I'm using a 20V DeWalt driver.

Has anyone seem such problem?


texts: Should I thread tape counter-clockwise on kitchen sink shut off valve?

texts: Just bought Decor Star TPC11-TB kitchen faucet. In the instructions, it directs you to use Teflon tape on the shut off valve before installing the water supply lines. However, it says to thread in the counter-clockwise direction. Everything I’ve read says clockwise direction, starting from the top, so that you follow the threads. Perhaps the instructions say counter-clockwise because they want you to start from the bottom?


texts: Electrical device for testing continuity of long home-run wires

texts: Does anyone know the name or have a link to an electrical testing device for verifying home-runs to electrical box?


texts: What does blocking refer to in relation to floor joists?

texts:
This question was triggered by the following line in a home inspection:

  Blocking is not installed for I joists above beams in basement.

I have found pictures of blocking at http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/sister-studs-ceiling-easy-question-11349/ (linked from Floor Joist Blocking).  I have also found that cross bracing is an alternative to solid blocking. According to the National Wood Council's Details for Conventional Wood Frame Construction:

  Adequately nailed subflooring will maintain the upper edges of floor joists in proper alignment. Nailing the ends of joists to band joists or headers provides additional joist support that, under normal conditions, eliminates the need for intermediate bridging.

I feel like I understand the term, and what must be done, but my wife understood the inspector to mention load distribution in relation to the supporting steel beam when he commented to her during this portion of the inspection.

Is my understanding of blocking missing something? Does the possibility of compromising the positioning or structural integrity of the steel support beam exist because there is no blocking?


texts: How can I resheathe behind brick fascia without removing the brick?

texts:
The original builders of my house used a material called "Aluma Sheath", also known as Dennyboard, to sheathe my house. Dennyboard is a radiant coating on two sides of a 1/8 sheet of a fiberous material similar to what pegboards are made out of. It disintegrates when it gets wet and is very susceptible (and seemingly quite delicious) to insects, which eat out the core and leave nothing except the sheet of metal or mylar that's not thick enough to be used as tinfoil. It obviously was never providing any lateral rigidity, so in theory none should be required now although it is called for in code.

In the past thirty-two years, the Dennyboard has rotted as it was exposed to the elements. There was no tarpaper, housewrap, or other material between the Dennyboard and the brick. So I'm left with brick, which while a decent and fireproof rainscreen, is decidedly not waterproof, and there exists (many,many) ways for insects and moisture to directly access the insulation and sheetrock layers of the building envelope.

Is there a good and code-compliant way -- and barring that, just a good way -- to rectify this situation WITHOUT REMOVING THE BRICK OR INTERNAL STRUCTURE? My current concept is not code compliant as far as I'm aware. (It might be, but I don't have the experience to know.) I am planning to remove all of the sheetrock and insulation in the affected rooms, cut the brick ties (most of which are rusted anyway) after supporting the fascia from the exterior, slip housewrap between the studs and the fascia, and then slip a sheet of 4x8 1/2" (or less, I think I saw 1/4") of extruded foam sheathing between the studs and the housewrap. The entire thing will be re-anchored and affixed from the outside using CTP Grip Ties or a similar product. This should provide a watertight, sheathed, and even (insufficiently) thermally broken envelope without having to do any tearout work beyond the sheetrock.

Can anyone comment on the legality or feasibility of this idea? Tearing down the brick fascia is not possible; I'm very hesitant to alter the structure of the house in any way without getting a lot of (expensive) engineering advice first. Note: I have not begun tearout of the drywall yet and won't until this winter; the assumption that the brick ties are mostly rotted is because the fascia moves pretty freely and after doing a bunch of work to the roof and trim above this area I got a good look down inside between the fascia and the internal wall and saw the rotted dennyboard.


texts: A 110V air purifier comes with a 100-240V adapter

texts:
I have a 110V air purifier that comes with a 100-240V adapter. Can I still use the air purifier with power input 220-240V? Do I need a transformer or converter? Thank you.

Edit: I can’t find the attachment option :(. This is what it’s written on the adapter 100-240V. 50/60Hz. 0.8A Output is 24V and 1A

This is printed on the air purifier 110V/60Hz.

Does that mean I can use the air purifier anywhere in the world since the power adapter is 100-240V? Auto-switching?


texts: mice and sound traveling through brick party wall joist pockets

texts: We live in a 1912 row house that I believe has joist pockets that allow sound and mice to travel freely between me and my neighbors' houses. For instance, my neighbor hired pest control to deal with his mice last winter and one of the dying mice staggered into my living room, clearly in distress from the poison. Assuming my hunch is correct and the joist pockets are to blame, what's the best way to repair them so that mice AND sound are abated?  I've already rejected spray foam since mice can chew through it and it lacks sufficient mass to block sound.


texts: Connecting new ceiling light in 1970 house

texts:
I am putting up a new ceiling light. There are 3 white wires and 3 black wires coming out of the ceiling. I tested them all and only 1 black wire is hot.

How do I hook up my light fixture that only has 1 black and 1 white wire to work with the wall switch?


texts: What type of hose do I need to replace a pull out faucet?

texts: The flexible line on my kitchen faucet seems to be leaking and plumbing is not my strong point!  The faucet is an american standard (not sure the model).  I'm wondering what type of hose to get for a replacement as I cant seem to find the exact one and whether the bottom part of that copper piece just unscrews?


texts:
Hi so I’m an electrical engineer visiting some family in Ecuador and after some wiring has stopped working In the kitchen I have decided to rip out the 40 plus year old installation and reinstall. This is a bamboo farm house fed with a 2 wire overhead installation to a smart meter and then two 60 amp breakers, one is for the neutral. Both are accessible for a safe disconnect at least. That’s what the utility has provided. The meter is grounded with the ACSR cable from the overhead I assume it’s providing ground. Now the interesting part. After the meter and the two breakers the house is serviced with two tiny #12 gauge wires to a single 50amp breaker and then a whole collection of junction boxes to feed everything in the house. There is no ground wire what so ever after the meter and the third prong on the outlets have just been filled with cement. That is the way here from what I’ve observed. No grounding or bonding and the ground prong removed from appliances that require them.

With that said I will service with larger cable and provide a panel with a neutral and ground bar and run all three wires through the installation. My question is could there be something I’m overlooking grounding this one house while the other houses that are fed from the pole mounted transformer are left ungrounded and with a floating neutral? If the neutral has some electric potential to it on the line, could it be dangerous to connect the neutral in the panel to the ground bar and then to the main water pipe? Any thoughts appreciated thanks!


texts: Why is Schedule 80 conduit not available at home improvement stores?

texts:
Perhaps this is common knowledge, but I just found out that standard home improvement stores (HD, LO) do not carry Sch 80 conduit. I was always under impression that they would, and they even list it online, but it seems it is never available and cannot be ordered. That's also what staff at the store kinda confirmed, too (a funny thing was that the plumbing manager at LO thought that the electrical department would have a lot of stock...). They have some adapters and fittings that are SCH80, but no straight runs of conduit.
Does anyone know why that's the case? Seems like a pretty standard item to have. Just curious.


texts: Is it a problem that my furnace filter is loose in its slot?

texts:
When I bought my home, my furnace had a 16x20x1 nominal-size filter installed, and that's what I've been buying for replacements. This size doesn't fit the opening very well; there are large gaps around the sides. I measured the opening at 16"x20"x1-1/4".
I assume that the gaps are a problem, as they will allow unfiltered air into the furnace. What can I do to eliminate them?

Here's a picture of the filter's position when the furnace is on. I can still see the gaps around the edges:

This picture shows the entire slot -- note that there is no "door" or "panel" to close


texts: Water leaking through exterior floor and wall base

texts:
My Steel Frame house is built on top of a concrete foundation.
Since we do not have the funds to cover the cost of the whole house we needed to have the possibility to add more rooms later in time. GC and Architect were ok with this approach and designed the project considering that.

The foundation was built with that in mind, so apart from what the house currently needs, there are around 13 square meters more of foundation towards the front of the house

Thing is that once the siding was finish and the house should be water proof, we started to notice that water was leaking from some place.
We sealed every single place that could cause this started hosing water to the exterior walls were the water was.

The following 2 pictures illustrate the water filtering through the floor of the front wall

There are 2 inconvenients:
1- the foundation cement coat are leveled towards the house, so any water poured on that floor would go directly to the house instead of flowing away from it to the garden.
2- that part of the house has no "step" because of the foundation that was laid down for the future expansion of the house.

The contractor and the architect told us to put exterior flooring to act as a barrier and fix the level of the floor.

We actually did this but. it didn't work we also tried to put some roof membrane to the base of the exterior wall and put the flooring on top of it. with no results as it can be seen on the next picture.

Foundation before filling it with concrete

affected exterior wall and future expansion foundation surface

Front foundation and affected exterior wall and typical mate infusion from Argentina.

There's no way we can proceed to install any flooring with this issue not being resolved, and that's not allowing us to move in. Although its popularity is growing steady, Steel Framing experience is very little in Argentina.

I would really appreciate any insights or advice on this matter. Don't hesitate to ask for more information I would be glad to provide it.

edit: link to the imgur post

Edit 2:

After it dried, I did some water tests which illustrate how the water flows in**

affected front wall from the inside. Dry

main doorway corner


texts:
I'd like to build my own deck canopy, and not purchase those retractable awnings that don't seem to last so well out here in Colorado (can be very windy).

I have the 'basic' idea in my head but are there any good resource or plans for building a proper, safe, reliable deck canopy?

Edit: I was thinking two posts to connect to my existing deck posts.  Our deck is raised.  Then a header piece at the front of the deck, connected to the posts to which I would take a runner board for each side and connect that to the house.  I want to use a retractable awning.  Does this make some sense?

I like this idea: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-build-a-shade-canopy-frame-to-a-deck/index.html


texts: Help understanding the wiring of this switch

texts:
My bathroom currently has a single light switch connected to a single vanity light. I was assuming that was the only thing on the circuit. The only other thing in the room is a GFCI outlet that appears to be completely independent of the switch and light. The switch doesn't control the outlet and the breaker on the outlet will occasionally trip and disable the outlet without affecting the light.

I just finished adding a fan in the ceiling. It has one set of wires for the fan (black & white) and a second set for the associated light (blue & white).

I EXPECTED the wiring of the current single switch to be a black (hot) entering, a black (load) leaving to the vanity light, and a white coming back from the vanity light connected to the white paired with the hot wire. I thought adding new switches for the fan and new light would be as simple as splitting the existing hot to enter each switch, connecting the load of each switch to the black (or blue) of the corresponding device, and nutting all the whites together.

But when I opened it up I found this:

So instead of the 2 lines I was expecting (one line in and one line out to the vanity light) I have 3. I'll call them UL (upper left), UR (upper right) and B (bottom).

I'm not sure whether UR or B are the "line in". Both are connected to the hot side of the switch. It looks like UL is the one running to the vanity light since it's connected to the load side. And all the whites are just nutted together.

My interpretation:

Either UR or B is the line in, and the other one is providing power to another switch or outlet somewhere. (Even though I can't figure out what else it could possibly be connected to. Nothing else seems to shut off when I flip that breaker.)  So I should still be good with my original plan. 2 new switches. The hot sides of all three switches connected to each other + UR black and B black. The load of the first switch remains connected to UL. The loads of the other 2 switches are connected to fan (black) and light (blue). The whites from the 3 existing lines + the fan and the new light should all be nutted together. The grounds from all 5 lines should be nutted together.

I'm pretty sure that's right (and typing this up has straightened it out a bit in my head as usual). I would feel better about proceeding if someone could confirm though. Thanks for any input!


texts: Missing control knob for bathroom radiator

texts:
I recently moved to a new house that has a bathroom radiator, but the temperature control knob is missing. The problem is that I don't know the type, brand, and model of it to search for a replacement for the knob, it only has some words and numbers on it (in the photos attached). Can someone help in identifying the model or where I could find replacements?

(I live in France)


texts: Is it possible to use my window A/C unit without actually installing it in the wall?

texts:
So, here's the dilemma.  I want to install a window unit in my garage.  I know how to do this, but my wife isn't supportive of the idea because we are trying to sell the house currently.  Anyways, rather than fighting this never-ending battle with her, I'm trying to see if I can somehow still use my window unit without actually cutting a hole in the wall, etc.

An idea that I had was to figure out somehow how to route the exhaust to outside.  This is obviously an issue because I would need an opening somewhere in my garage.

Is it possible to use my window A/C unit in my garage without actually installing it in the wall?


texts: How should I secure NM wire that someone ran outside of two studs?

texts:
This is behind a closet that we’re going to Sheetrock and finish. The wire runs through a hole in the corner, around two studs and into another corner. I’m thinking of notching the studs 1/4” so Sheetrock can go on. I’ll attach metal plates to protect those notches of course.

But what about the fact that the romex would run close along the back of the Sheetrock? Is that code complaint? I’m thinking of attaching a metal “shield” across from he studs against the drywall, or cut a PVC conduit to enclose the wire between studs. There is not much slack in the wire.

Any suggestions? I’d hate to cut the wire and run a splice across two junction boxes just so this can go through centrally drilled holes. Seems like overkill. Though, if that’s the only code compliant solution, I’ll do that.

Thanks!

Edited to add detail: Wire is 2' from concrete subfloor. Other side of OSB is drywall and an adjoining room. Additionally, I believe the OSB is a sheer wall, and would avoid cutting it, and can't see any reason I'd have to anyway. Studs are 2x6 and 90% sure they're load-bearing for a 2-story house, so I'd like to avoid cutting more than a small notch.


texts: Inexpensive ideas to extend the height of my fence cinderblock wall outdoors

texts:
I live in the desert and a local bud of  mine used landscape grade timbers that he attached vertically onto the cinderblock wall every 8ft. Then he laid outdoor rated privacy fabric over the timbers and stapled them along the wood timbers. And apparently, the fabric isn't drooping between these the studs as they is no horizontal structure supporting the fabric between the studs he placed every 8ft. So now his privacy went from being only 6ft tall to being 8ft tall. I'd like to do something similar but when I was at Home Depot I discovered that the 2'x4'x96" rated landscape timbers were over $10. I have approximately 300ft of length I want to cover so at that price it's going to get costly. Especially when you consider the cost of regular 8ft long 2x4's for interior use are about a fourth of the price.
Since I live in the desert and we only get on average 4-5" of rain per year can I get away with using interior wood and painting it with exterior grade paint to seal it? It does get hot here in the summer (can get to 121 degrees in summer) so not sure if I would have to worry about warping due to extreme heat. But since the timbers are going to be attached with tapcon like screws along a six foot tall wall only 2ft will be up above and unsupported and that would be the only area that could warp.
Would my idea of painting the wood to seal it work or are they more affordable suggestions?
By the way, here are two photos of his project. The first one was before and the second is after.

In my case, adding two feet of additional height will block all of my neighbors windows from looking right into mine.


texts: I have a slow draining tub so I tried taking out the stopper but after unscrewing the stopper and the overflow plate there isn't anything more I could do, it seems like there is a one-peice L shaped rod from the lever to the stopper, I cant move one without the other, and I see no way to take it appart. Does anyone know about it and how to take it out? its not the plunger type neither the regular linkage type.    Kohler brand.


texts: Is it safe for baseboard water heater power supply to run insulated wiring over heating element?

texts:
I have recently moved in to a new apartment and found a transformer (which takes 120V @60Hz and outputs 24V 20VA) into a wall outlet with two wires coming from it and leading directly into one of my water baseboard heating units.

I called it in with management and they see no problems with it. According to them, this powers the heating unit, and should not be unplugged. I'm a bit worried, though, for a couple of reasons: those wires for the transformer run into the unit, rather than across and into the end. I pulled open the unit and the wires are spliced in to the wiring, but they rest on the fins of the radiator on the inside of the unit, and I'm worried the insulation could melt, possibly creating a short between the two wires via the fins.

My other concern is how the wires themselves are attached to the transformer; they are screwed in at the insulation stripped ends, and I'm worried this could be a shock hazzard for children.

In case it matters, there are 3 sets of heating units, one in the living room, one in the bathroom, and one in the bedroom. There is a single wall-mounted thermostat which I presume controls all 3 heating units. I cannot test any devices currently due to it being summer and the central boiler not being on, and with my concerns, I'd be afraid to even if I could.

My question is, is this an unsafe wiring setup? For safety's sake, I will not be performing any modifications to the wiring setup, but I would like to know whether any of my fears are warranted.


texts: Proper name and origin of tiny drill bit

texts: Many years ago, I acquired a pile of tiny, drill-bit-like items that I use to make practically invisible holes in drywall to hang lightweight stuff from. They are indispensible, but I don't know what they're called. I got them from my dad, who in turn had received them from our dentist. They might be used in dentistry, or they might be from said-dentist's hobbies. I'd love to know the origin of this item!


texts: How can I fix this coating on the kitchen sink?

texts:
Just moved into this house. The coating on the sink is coming off. I think maybe the sink has been painted, but I am not sure. It is particularly bad around the drain where a larger piece has chopped away and it is lifting all around it. In other places there are small chips. The bottom of the basin looks worn and permanently dirty. Does anyone have any ideas about what the coating is or what could be done to fix it and/or make it look better and last longer?

Thank you!


texts:
I need to drill a 0.5" hole for a big bolt going through 4x8 beam (used in swing). Now I only have the hand drill and no drill press tool (which could be nice). I only need to make 2 holes and they must be straight from one end to the other.

What are some tricks to drill a straight hole through 8" of wood? I am thinking about putting my drill sideway and slowly move in with a piece of lumber below to support while drilling. But then I don't really have a 8" long drill bit so I need to drill on both side. Even 1/4" off would be a big issue.

Please let me know any suggestion.


texts: Door replacement - will door still be solid after cutting?

texts:
I need to replace/repair a door in my rented apartment.  During a rather rowdy party one of my guests managed to put a hole in my bathroom door.

I don't think that there is probably anyway to repair the door cleanly.  (If you look carefully I drilled a whole in the broken in piece and tried to pull it back out).  I think that the easiest solution is going to be replacing the door.  (Please let me know if there are any suggestions).

The dimensions of the door are somewhat strange.  The door is 74'' tall and 28'' wide.

I cannot find a 74'' x 28'' door anywhere.  The closest thing that I can find is 78'' x 28'.

I am thinking I will buy a similar door and cut off the bottom (or have it cut off at home depo).  I am concerned that it is not going to be solid after being cut.  Here is a diagram:

  ^      ============     ^
  |      ||        ||     |
  |      ||        ||     |
  |      ||        ||     |
74''     ||        ||    78''
  |      ||        ||     |
  |      ||        ||     |
  v      |---cut----|     |
         ||        ||     |
         ============     v

I was planning on using this kind of door:


texts: Pex Pipe Freezing & Tankless Hot Water Heater Too

texts:
I have Pex pipes.  My issue is freezing pipes and tankless hot water heater on the north side of my house (built in 2009) where my master bath is (the tankless is on the outside of the house on that north wall).  The house is 2-story.

The builder unfortunately ran the Pex in the attic and they sit about a foot from my continuous soffits, so cold air blows in there all the time in the winter.  I'm stuck with it being where it is, so I don't need comments about it being in the wrong place.  Also, my toilet lines in my Master Bath run on the north wall.

I'm in Texas, but when the temps gets in the teens, my pex lines coming into the toilet always freeze.  I trickle water in the sinks/tub and they are fine (but only if I trickle water).  Also, if it is in the teens for 2 or 3 days, my tankless water heater gets frozen (the lines into the tankless freeze; although this last time it froze on up into the unit).

I have had holes drilled in my brick on that wall to blow in foam insulation in the walls on top of regular insulation.  Didn't help.

I've had foam insulation things put around the Pex in the attic.  Didn't help.

I have had a company blow in a ton of loose insulation over the Pex in the attic...didn't help (but I think the wind blows it back off).

Bottom line, the pex continues to freeze and I can only surmise it is because of them being in the attic in the location they are in.  I can't move them.  I've never had the pipes burst, but eventually, I'm afraid they will - I would image pex can only freeze/thaw so many times. I don't like being without a toilet during cold snaps, and having my tankless freeze is costly.  (It cost be $475 the last time I had a plumber out to thaw it out, but it could be even more costly if I didn't get it thawed).  Builder will NOT help.

Looking for suggestions to keep the pex from freezing in the attic, as that might solve the freezing pipes to the toilet and even possibly solve the frozen lines to the tankless.


texts: How can I find ceiling joists underneath this wood paneling?

texts:
Out on our front porch we'd like to hang a swing, but I can't figure out where any of the joists are underneath the wood paneling.

I can't find any nails or screws of any sort and my stud finder isn't working on this (presumably because the paneling is wood as well).

Any ideas how I'd go about finding the beams to put some eye hooks?


texts: What is the best way to attach a timber block to IKEA Linnmon desktop?

texts:
I want to fix a metal wire cable tray to an Ikea Linnmon desktop with screws, however the desktop has honeycomb filling therefore it is not suitable for screws. I think maybe attaching a timber block to the desktop then fixing the tray to the block will be a solution. What is the best way to do that? I am thinking of glue, but which type of glue? The material of the desktop is Fibreboard, Acrylic paint, according to Ikea website. The timber block I plan to use would be untreated (I guess?)
Thanks in advance!


texts: I have some LED lights hooked up to a trophy cabinet and for some reason it's emitting a fairly loud high pitched noise, does anyone know what this could be?


texts: How do I eliminate and prevent future stink bug infestations?

texts:
Throughout the winter we tended to have 1-2 stink bugs buzzing around the house on any given day. We'd either vacuum them up or put them in the disposal. The humidity picked up for a bit and yesterday we had more like 12 or so buzzing around.

Is there anything we can do to control the critters? How could we figure out how they get in the house? Is there anything that can be done to make our house less attractive to them? Anything we can do to thin out their numbers or exterminate them completely?