texts: How to add insulation to a hollow core exterior door?

texts:
During some renovations to my house and I removed some wood-paneling and uncovered an exterior door. The door faces west, so it gets the late afternoon sun and in Phoenix, the door gets hot.

Typically, I wouldn't be concerned about an exterior door but it's a hollow core door which lets in a lot of heat.  I can't afford to replace the door with something that is solid, yet, so I'm trying to figure out a way to provide a bit of insulation to it.

The door looks like this:

While we will not be using to enter/exit the house at this time, we'd prefer to leave the door somewhat accessible.  This is eventually going to be the main entry door into the house, but if we aren't able to insulate it at this time as is, then we'd consider covering it again.

Since it's hollow core, I know it has the honeycomb interior so using spray foam would be really difficult.

I was thinking about purchasing some rigid insulation foam board, attaching it to the door, then attaching a piece of wood on top of it.  My reasoning is that it would give a bit more protection from the heat of the summer and the cold in the winter.

Does anyone have suggestions on how I could insulate this door?


texts: Options for a remote-controlled bathroom exhaust fan/light?

texts: A friend of ours has a "toilet room" with one switch that controls both the light and the exhaust fan. He'd like to be able to control the fan and the light separately, but without having to run three-conductor NM-B, possibly remove and replace drywall, etc. What can I do about this? My Google-fu is failing me. I'm handy enough that I could probably figure out a way to wire in some solenoids and remote-control them; however, I'd rather not cobble something together, especially since this wouldn't be at our own place. Thanks!


texts: Cathedral ceiling retrofit with no ridge beam or ridge board - what are my options?

texts:
I'm buying my first house (we close in one week!!) and I'm remodeling almost the whole house before moving in. One thing I'm considering is putting in a cathedral ceiling on the 2nd floor. I'm not a carpenter, just a DIY guy who's watched a lot of This Old House, bu here is what I know:

Pros to doing this:

It's a gable roof, very simple. I think (but I don't know) that it's a 45 degree angle.
Small footprint, only about 14 x 24 ft or 336 sq ft (rough measurements) and rafters are 24" apart on center
It's an old house, over 100 years old, and the stick frame uses quality 2x's and no trusses
the existing lathe and plaster would have to be repaired anyways because of cracks and water stains
the ceilings are pretty low and a cathedral ceiling would give us space for ceiling fans
there's very little insulation (blown cellulose) in the small existing loft so no big loss
I have to go into the loft and rip it all up to get the old tube and knob wiring out anyways so might as well just knock it out
installing new electrical wires all throughout so if it's demo'd to the frame then that would be easier
opportunity for exposed "beams"

Cons:

there's no ridge beam or ridge board!!
the 2x6s rafters are obviously not deep enough to fit enough insulation in (unless it's the expensive stuff) so I will likely have to deepen them with 2x4s or 2x6s
this will make an already narrow room feel even narrower
will have to worry about roof venting. As it sits, there is just one gable vent and that's it.

So, my main question (though I'm open to any advice and why, why nots) is this:
Can I do this without a ridge board? Can a ridge board be (realistically) installed??

Here is something I drew up. Will this work? (illustration is not to proportion at all)

Any other way to do this? Any other problems you can forsee? THANK YOU!

Here is the view from inside the attick/crawlspace. You can see there is no ridge board, but there is some hefty roof decking:

And a view from the room (we might knock down the closet walls and make two small bedrooms into one). As you can see the ceiling is low and a "quasi-cathedral" ceiling (if you know what term is actually used to describe a ceiling like then than please let me know what it is!)

And finally, the house. Our new home! A lot of work to do...


texts: Minimum Size of First 90 Degree Fitting Downstream of a Sink

texts:
The Building code for Wisconsin states this:

  The minimum radius for the first 90° fitting downstream from a trap serving a lavatory or sink shall be 1-3/4" for drain piping 1-1/2" in diameter. The fitting shall be a tee or quarter bend.
  The minimum radius for the first 90° bend or elbow downstream from a water closet shall be 2-1/2" for drain piping 3" in diameter.
  The minimum radius for the first 90° bend or elbow downstream from a water closet shall be 3" for drain piping 4" in diameter.

Could I get a translation, please? This sounds like it's either poorly worded or unrealistic. The "minimum radius"? So downstream of a sink, if I want a 90 degree turn, I need to increase to a diameter of 3 1/2 inches? That sounds absurd. There appears to be no such thing as a 3 1/2 inch PVC pipe at the average hardware store.

I was under the impression that I could do long runs with multiple 90 degree turns, maintaining 1 1/2 inch diameter as long as I use long-turn fittings.


texts: Hanging ceiling hooks from concrete beams above drywall ceiling

texts:
I'm hoping to hang two aerial yoga hooks from the ceiling in my apartment (I'm on a middle floor in a ten-story building). I popped out a light fixture to take this picture, and I want to make sure I understand what I'm looking at:
A: Is the support beam holding up the floor above me -- it feels like concrete to the touch.
B: There appear to be two thin boards attached to the bottom of the beam -- what are these for?
C: Is a lightweight steel frame holding up the drywall of my ceiling
D: Is the drywall of my ceiling
E: Is another steel frame, holding up the ceiling framing
Am I correct in thinking that I'd need to mount the hooks into the concrete beams (A)?
I want the hooks to sit flush against the drywall ceiling and there's a gap of about 3 inches between the top of the drywall and the beam: Naively, I'm imagining drilling ~6-inch wedge anchors through the drywall and into the bottom of the beams.
Am I being an idiot and/or overlooking any complicating factors here?


texts:
Looking to see if anyone can tell if this is asbestos or not
http://imgur.com/IsvbL2C
http://imgur.com/v4dPYEI

Edit: house was finished in 1984


texts: How to test voltage between neutral and ground

texts:
I'm not an electrician.  Per, https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA158817/, I want to test the outlets in a room for the following:

  Overloaded neutral wire (>5 Volts AC measured between Neutral and Ground).
  Reversed polarity (hot and neutral wires are reversed).
  Missing ground wire. (Note: this also includes using a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter)

I've found simple plug-in devices on Amazon that I'm confident can test for #2 and #3, but what sort of tool do I need for #1, to measure the voltage between Neutral and Ground?


texts:
I'm thinking about making a small sink for my DIY lab. Since there is no running water or drain, I was thinking about something similar to a camping sink like this one.
I'd make some modifications (e.g. using a ceramic basin rather than a plastic one, since it will be fixed).
Now, for the water reservoir any container is fine, but I have doubts about the material of the drain plumbing and container. I'd usually use it to wash the hands (so only water + soap), but I'd also occasionally use it to wash tools and items, which can include also chemicals (e.g. ferric chloride to etch PCBs).
What material is usually used in these cases, and what are its limitations? (e.g. this plastic is ok for acids but when used with gasoline breaks).
For instance I found containers and pipes in PE or PVC or PP; is any of these materials suitable?


texts:
I just moved into a small home (~1150sf) that currently has 150 amp service. The disconnect is outside by the meter (pictured). The meter is attached to the side of the carport, which I'm about to convert into a garage.

The sub panel is inside in the middle of the house (pictured). Though I have some room if I replace some of the breakers with doubles, she's pretty full.

I need significant power in the new garage. Here are the circuits I'd like to install in the new garage. Some of the items can be run on the same receptacle and few, if any, of the 220v tools will be run simultaneously:

120v for A/C
30a, 220v for table saw
30a, 220v for plasma cutter
60a, 220v for welder
(8) 120v receptacles for various woodworking tools

In every other house I've lived in, I've had room in my panel and have wired the circuits I've needed myself.

I guess I can run a sub panel to the garage from the sub in the house and then wire up the circuits, but since the disconnect is about 5' from the garage, I was wondering if there are other options.

Any advice? Thanks in advance.


texts: Will installing a 2inch fitting in a 3 inch water line decrease water pressure?

texts:
We share a well with our neighborhood.  The neighbors want to install a 2-inch meter on the 3-inch supply line, because the 2-inch meter is less expensive.  I think it will decrease the water pressure.  They say it won't.  Who is right?  I don't want to have to pay for this and then have to pay for re-doing it when it causes more problems!

Thank you to those who have responded.  It looks like I was right, but the other neighbors went out and bought the 2 inch.  Oh well.  I guess we will have to buy a pump and tank for ourselves because I doubt relying on gravity to supply enough pressure is going to work any more.  I didn't realize it was only $39!  Sometimes you love your neighbors, sometimes you don't!


texts: How can I temporarily soundproof my bedroom window?

texts: I live on the second floor of a noisy NYC apartment building, and my bedroom window is unfortunately right above a busy street. I've been sleeping with earplugs for a while, but I still get woken up. Is there any way to temporarily soundproof my window? Preferably it would be cheap and easy to install/remove.


texts: Why is it taking so long for my A/C to start?

texts:
When I turn my AC thermostat to cool, I can hear it click but the outside unit does not start and no air blows inside.  Several hours later everything turns on and it works fine.

If it turns off, then it could be hours once again before it will start back up.  For this reason I freeze my house before I let it go out again!

Any idea what may be causing this?  I've had a capacitor go bad before, but the air was still blowing inside while the outside was humming.  With this current issue, nothing seems to start.

Any ideas on what to look into is much appreciated!


texts:
I have a duplex outlet that appears to wired in series. The outlet appears to have 12/2 in and 12/2 out. My hot wire from the breaker box remains hot unless I have 2 different breakers off. I am getting 124V at the outlet. My voltage remains the same with both breakers, just breaker 1, or breaker 2. I have AF / GF breakers and I am not getting a fault code on either breaker.

I am using AF/GR breakers because there is no ground wire (I have an old home) and because the wires are <5.5 I am installing TR outlets. The plates are marked appropriately.

When I disconnect the opposite set of wires, I loose power to my outlets. This is regardless of what combination of breaker is on.

There is only one hot wire (when the outlet is disconnected) in the box. The other black wire does not have power. My neutrals also do not have power.

Do you know why this is occurring? What would you do if you were in my shoes?


texts: How should I paint a stain on a white wall without having to repaint the entire wall?

texts:
My livingroom  has a white wall with a visible brown stain on it.
I would like to cover it with some white paint but the wall was painted a couple of years ago so it is not bright white but it has become darkish.

How should I cover the stain with white paint avoiding the "bright white patch" effect on a white wall?


texts: Is 94 cubic feet/hour of natural gas a heavy load?

texts:
Is natural gas fuel consumption of 94 cubic ft/hr a high or low consumption? (How does it compare to a stove, oven or clothes dryer?)

I am trying to figure out if I can run a small standby generator off my existing NG hardware. I have an ANSI meter #250.


texts: How to connect thermostat to newly-installed condenser/evaporator unit

texts: I installed a furnace evaporator and condenser brand goodman 4 ton unit but need to know how to connect thermostat from condenser to the furnace to the thermostat if any suggestion.


texts: Is it ok to wait several days (after undercoating) before applying an oil-based top coat?

texts:
I'm painting the woodwork in my house, and I am hoping to apply gloss undercoat one week, and then apply two coats of gloss top coat the next week. I'm aware that I have a limited period of time to apply the second layer of top coat after the first (presumably so that the paint is still tacky so that the second coat bonds), however I am unsure whether a similar time window exists after applying the gloss undercoat.

So basically, is it ok to leave gloss undercoat for about 5 or 6 days before applying the topcoat?

The paints I am using are:

Dulux Trade Undercoat (also see spec sheet PDF)
Dulux Trade High Gloss (also see spec sheet PDF)


texts: Sewer backup through basement floor drain after heavy rain

texts:
tl;dr

Sewage backed up through floor drain after heavy rains. Sewage line was clear, whole house trap was clogged with organic matter and toilet paper. No plumbing drains through the whole house trap, yet the pipes connected to it contained lots of organic matter and toilet paper.

What is the purpose of the whole house trap in my house? How could sewage reach it if no pluming drains there? How to prevent the back-up in the future?

Full description:

I recently bought a house. The house was built in 1968, and is located in a large town in western Ohio. The house is connected to the municipal sewer system. Behind the house there is a creek, and the storm water is drained to that creek (I've put up a fence and the city marked the storm water line from a grate in front of my house, through my yard to the creek). The plumbing of the house looks original, copper supply pipes and copper and iron drain pipes. Gutters drain to the yard, not to drain points.

The basement has a washing machine and sink, with not other plumbing points. There is an open floor drain (with water in the drain, so I assume there's a P-trap there) next to the furnace/AC/WH (the new furnace and the AC drain there), as well as a cleanout (capped with a plastic screw-on cap) and a whole house trap (that was originally covered with a non air-tight steel plate, and is now covered with a glued on acrylic panel as part of a Radon reduction system).

Here's the whole house trap and cleanout (now, after clearing the clogs):

During the last few days and nights, we had quite a bit of rain, and yesterday evening I have discovered sewage back up around the furnace floor drain. The spill contained "organic matter", so it's defiantly sanitary sewage.

After opening the whole house trap, I saw that the water level was very high (about 8" above the normal level). Cleaning the trap resulted in plenty of organic matter and toilet paper, sitting on top of a steel grate. The steel grate is normally above the water level of the trap, but was now 4" below the water level. After cleaning all I could, the water level didn't drop substantially. I couldn't run a snake through the trap, presumably due to the angle of the trap.

I opened the cleanout next and it was clear. Flushing toilets and opening faucets/showers throughout the house all drained well through the cleanout, without affecting the water in the whole house trap.

Using a wet/dry vac I sucked up the water standing in the whole house trap, and it has seemed to dislodge the clog, allowing water to drain properly through the trap (water poured into the trap drain through the cleanout pipe). Looking at the content of the vac didn't show anything special (just organic matter).

After the trap was clear I used a hose to flush out the three pipes leading into the trap. I flushed from the trap, since I didn't have a clue as to where these pipes lead. Two of the pipes contained organic matter and toilet paper that took a while to fully flush (flushed multiple time with the hose), but at the end all three pipes drained clear water after hosing them for about 10 seconds.

Here's a closeup on the trap:

What is going on with the plumbing in the house? What do the pipes in the whole house trap do? How would organic matter and toilet paper reach those pipes? All toilets seem to flush through the cleanout pipe, and there is a steel grate blocking the trap's entrance (so waste shouldn't travel from the cleanout pipe to the trap, since it should be stopped by the grate). How to prevent the back-up from occurring in the future?


texts:
My doorbell recently stopped working, after a decorator painted my hallway.

It is a wired system with a bell transformer beside the consumer unit. There are 2 wired bell units inside the house – one downstairs and one upstairs.

I'm handy with a multimeter but I do not have access to the junction box that connects all the wires together, without ripping all the paper off the wall and needing redecoration. There is only one pair of wires leaving the transformer, and only one pair leading to the switch and each of the two bells – so I know there must be some kind of junction somewhere. It would help if I knew exactly where! These wires are all of different ages and appearances, as they were commissioned at different times, so I know I can't be mistaken in this.

The bells are wired in parallel.

The transformer is working and is generating approximately 14V AC.

Measuring the voltage across the switch, I see the same. Pressing the button, the voltage drop across the switch goes to 0V. However, neither of the bells ring. The switch is of the kind that lights up when it is not being pressed, but it is no longer illuminating, even though there is 14V AC present.

I did manage to persuade someone to press the switch while measuring the voltage across one of the bells. It stayed at 0V.

All the connections seem to be sound.

What should my next steps be? Are there any further practical diagnostic steps I can make, or do I now need to start making holes in stuff looking for the junction box?

Once I find the box I know how to check the resistance of each leg looking for the break. But can I do anything useful without finding it? I have access to a mains cable detector, but does that work with the lower voltages a doorbell works at?

Here are some pictures of the various parts of the system:

Update

I first tested the current drawn by shorting out the switch contacts, using a multimeter. I got 0mA.

Then I found a long length of speaker wire. With the help of a chock block, I traced the continuity between the various parts of my circuit.

I have a good connection from one side of my transformer to one side of the switch.

I have a good connection from the other side of the transformer to one side of both bells, which means they are definitely wired in parallel.

The other side of the bell units are connected to each other as well, confirming they are in parallel.

Unfortunately, the other side of the switch is open circuit to the other side of the bell units.

Sadly, I think this means I need to run a new wire.

Update: Fixed!

Having used a sufficiently long piece of speaker cable, and tracing the open circuit connection to the cable run between the switch and the junction box (whose precise location is still not known) suspicion fell on a newly drilled hole, intended to fix the telephone cable junction box more firmly to the wall.

After digging out the wall behind the junction box sufficiently, we could see the new hole had indeed hit the bell cable and light pressure was sufficient to completely separate the wires - though at first, only one part was visible.

Further digging exposed the other part of the wire, and we were able to reconnect the ends with a chock block.

Putting everything back together I now have two working bells. And the hole was small enough that it could be filled and completely hidden by the junction box for the telephone. Result!

Thanks to everyone for your excellent advice.


texts:
I've just come home from a trip and found that my Optoma HD20 appears to be broken.
When I turned it on, I don't get the usual Optoma logo, but instead unmoving static broken by a black bar.

Prepared to replace - it's served me well since 2012 - but interested in what might have broken, and whether it can be repaired?

I had the 'vertical lines' issue a couple of years ago, which went away when I pushed on top of the bulb, I don't know if that's relevant?

Thanks!


texts:
I bought a 10x20 wood lofted shed. One loft is just 4 feet wide and the other is 8 feet.
I’m wanting to use the 8’ loft for totes and other storage but it’s already starting to bow underneath it a bit. Now I wish I’d ordered it with the 2x6s instead of the 2x4s but didn’t think about it then.
I was thinking of maybe a couple 2x4s propping the bottom up 4’ from the back but didn’t know if that’s best or would be enough.
Any suggestions are welcome.


texts: How do I get started with dovetail joints?

texts: I've never made a dovetail joint before, and I'd like to do things right for my next project.  I have the router and table and all that - but I don't have a dovetail jig.  The prices vary from $40 to well over $400.  Do I need to buy a special jig, or is there a way I can just buy the router bit for $10 and make my own template somehow?


texts: Why do you need a Residual Current Device if you already have trip switches?

texts:
My electrician has suggested installing a RCD into the house. We already have trip switches so I am not sure what the point is (but then my knowledge of RCDs is limited to what the Wikipedia article just told me).

What advantage does installing an RCD have if you already have trip switches?


texts: How can I remedy sticky latex paint without stripping?

texts: I have an old, probably 50+yrs, architecture drawing table that I've resized and using as kitchen island. I need it white, so I lightly sanded old top and painted with latex. I allowed drying time between layers (2), but it's lightly sticky. Is there remedy without stripping off?


texts: With self drilling screw should I use a drill or a driver?

texts:
I need to affix some sheet metal using self drilling screws like the ones below. I have drill/driver with variable torque. What should I use for drilling/driving that? At first I'm drilling, but later I'm driving, should I use some torque setting? Should I go full speed in drill mode?

I'm worried because if I go full speed I might strip the metal, and I just use some torque setting I might not be able to drill the sheet.


texts:
In my snow removal history, I've used a total of 2 different methods. The first and current method, involves using a normal cheap snow shovel which isn't very effective, strains your back, but makes hot chocolate the best drink ever. The other method being that of a snow blower, which is great at doing most the work for you, however, it is expensive, loud, maintenance expenses, may not blow snow as far as you want or to where you want it to go, and is very vulnerable to wind conditions.

I am not looking to spend anymore than $80. I have been searching online for different shovels/methods so that I can figure out how to finally defeat the snow this winter. I've found some new types of shovels/methods that I was unaware of, but I'm still not sure. Most seem not to be that great or have stupid design flaws. I'm looking to receive advice from any self-proclaimed snow conquerors on what are the best, cheap tools/methods for snow shoveling.

A couple things I've came across that caught my interest :

One of the most interesting newer techniques I've found online was the Snow Wolf. I've watched some YouTube videos on it, and I think this thing would work great. It's just too expensive for me at around $150 plus any accessories.

Another interesting technique I found is this homemade bike plow. I think it would probably cost too much to create a decent bike plow and it supposedly doesn't work well or at all with heavier snow.


texts:
I have a 20 amp breaker that recently tripped.  I tried unplugging a couple of appliances ( was running too much at that point) and resetting the breaker.  I tried turning the breaker off but it did not click and feel firm in the off position like it normally would.  Once I reset it, it tripped again almost instantly.  Also, the lights in the home dimmed slightly just before it tripped.

Is this a sign of a bad breaker or a wiring problem?


texts: Shower in one bathroom causing moisture in the second

texts:
We have two bathrooms side by side on our second floor. They both have the same exact layout (about 6'x7'). Both have their own separate exhaust fans (Nutone, 80CFM, 1.6amps), but share the same vent to the roof through a Y-shaped connector and flex 4" pipe. When we take steamy showers in bathroom A, paint from the ceiling of bathroom B is showing signs of moisture and paint is peeling in one area of the ceiling. We even noticed some condensation on the tile wall of bathroom B.

What could be causing the problem in bathroom B and how can we fix it?


texts: Oven "flickers" in power every now and then

texts:
Our oven seems to "flicker" in power every now and then. By that I mean it loses power just momentarily --- or at least it loses power long enough for the clock to reset. This has happened four times in the course of the month and a half we've been leaving here, and twice in the last two days. The circuit breaker doesn't need to be reset or anything it's just as if the power went out briefly.
The microwave nearby which also has a clock hasn't reset like this the entire time.
Also, 3/4 of the times this has happened it occurred in the middle of the night when presumably nothing was really going on in the house.
Does anyone know what's going on here or what I can do to fix it? I'm talking to a few electricians but they're solidly booked out for a few months.


texts:
We recently removed a wet bar from our living room and we're going to replace it with a kegerator. On the wall above the wet bar, there are currently two switches and one outlet, but not in a row; one of the switches is above the outlet and the other switch. We want to have an outlet down low so the plug for the kegerator is not visible.

Surprise surprise, when the plumber opened up the wall to cap off the plumbing, he uncovered a capped off outlet box (which while trying to find out how to deal with our situation I've learned shouldn't have been dry walled over). So putting a new outlet in there seems straightforward enough.

My question has to do with the switches and outlet higher up on the wall. Ideally, we'd like to not have an outlet there at all, and just have the two switches next to each other. But as I've mentioned, I know I shouldn't drywall over where the outlet was.Can I move the upper switch to be next to the lower one, put wire nuts on the wires from the outlet, leave them in the box with the switches, and then put on the face plate? Or is that not safe? If it's not, then my plan is to move the upper switch down and have the two switches and the outlet in a row, even if the outlet really won't get any use. Unless there are other options?
Thanks!


texts:
Today I drained my central heating/hot water system. This is a standard vented, pumped S plan with two electric valves and an indirect hot water cylinder, and I'm in UK.

I was lucky enough to have a drain valve underneath ground floor, relatively accessible, see pics:

So I opened it and was able to drain: good!
However, upon refilling the system, I found out that that valve will rotate endlessly, and won't guarantee proper isolation: it's stripped.

I was thinking to add an isolating (aka service) valve past the old one, i.e., along the pipe in the bottom part of the images.

Something like this:

Do you think that will work? Or is there a risk that the old valve will leak when the new one is shut? Do you foresee any other possible problem?

Any feedback welcome!

Thanks!


texts: Loud Noise, possibly electrical, from somewhere in the house

texts: Just today I have heard a loud buzzing noise in the house. I have lived here 16 years and never heard it before. It is loud, lasts a few seconds and sounds electrical. I cannot isolate where it is from. I looked to see if the breaker box had any tripped breakers, no. I also have the furnace running, sounds normal. Does the electrical box make a noise if something is going bad? I shut everything down and turned off the main switch. Then re-started everything. About 20 minutes later, I heard the noise again. It is from somewhere in the basement....Circuit Breaker? Water Heater? Furnace? Any ideas?


texts: Covering roof vents to keep out roof rats

texts:
I have around 20 vents on my roof and I currently do not have a roof rat problem but I want to cover them with something to prevent roof rats getting into the attic. I'm sure I can find something at home depot that will do this and still allow the air passage through the netting/mesh that I put over the vents.

My question is about the vent that is used for the dryer. Lint coming out of that vent can attach itself to the covering and create a fire hazard. Is there a safe way to prevent rats from getting into the dryer through this vent?


texts: What is the 4" white pvc pipe in Pool patio concrete slab?

texts: Bought his house this summer. Didn't like that pool liner attempted to float in a few areas during a 2 day ice storm back in October with 3+ inches of rain. Back corner around shed became a lake with water seeping into shed. I'm thinking of installing a sump. Might put a drain hose down this hole if it's just drainage however my gutters just drain onto concrete and I don't see any outlets for drainage in street. This pipe goes down about 4 feet and appears to have been installed at the same time as the concrete about 10-15 yrs ago. 4" pvc/no lid.


texts: Screw sequence for Wood Subfloor to Metal Joists

texts:
I’m building a second floor in my metal barn.

12’x24’Space, joists are 2”x6” Metal  16” on center & the sub-floor is 3/4” ply TnG using 1&1/4” self-tapping screws.

My questions:

What is the screw sequence on the edges & in the field?

Do I offset the 4’x8’ sub-floor sheets?


texts: Installing a mirror on wardrobe sliding door

texts: I want to hang a 1.5m tall wooden frame mirror on my wardrobe sliding door but I am afraid it would fall off and shatter into pieces some day. Is there a good way to install it securely with minimal damage to the sliding door?


texts:
Although dry and not moldy, my 130-year-old basement has a distinct basement smell that bothers my wife.  I am trying to determine its source.  We have steam heat.  In the summer, the boiler is only used for hot water, of couse.  Do oil boilers usually smell?

The boiler is seven years old.  It was inspected by the oil company and given a clean bill of health when we moved in a few months age.


texts: Should I add a return or another supply to a large room with only one supply?

texts:
I just moved into a new house and I have that one room that always seems to be hot. It's on the 2nd floor of the house with the attic over it. The other 2 rooms on the 2nd floor are always a nice temperature.

The room is 23x20 with 9ft ceilings. There are 3 windows in the center of the back wall and the supply is centered over those windows.

There is no return at all in this room. I was wondering if I added a return would it help out with the heat. If I'm already adding a return then does it make sense to add another supply and if so where? Would it make sense to add a supply at the front and back of the rooms and the return in the middle (all in the ceiling)?


texts: What is considered "servicing" for NEC 225.30?

texts:
I previously asked a question (Grounding subpanels located ~100ft from main breaker) where I was informed of NEC 225.30, which states that a building

  [...] shall be supplied by only one feeder or branch circuit [...]

It sounds like this code exists to ensure that each building has a single breaker or disconnect method that disconnects the entire building.

How does this relate to a building which has a main breaker panel that feeds multiple subpanels? For example, if I have a 200A main panel with two 100A breakers, each feeding a 125A subpanel (with no main breaker, only branch circuit breakers), do the main panel and subpanels all need to be on the same building, or can the main breaker panel be located close to the meter (on a separate building) with the subpanels on a different building?

Functionally, there is no difference between the two setups, except physical location of the panels. In both cases, there is a single breaker that will disconnect both subpanels.


texts:
I'm planning on affixing some mosaic tile to a panel of plywood (43" x 44"), and then affixing that tiled panel to the back of an entertainment center which I'm re-purposing to become a bar.

Once I've got the tile on the plywood, I'm not quite sure the best way affix the tiled board to the entertainment center. I thought about leaving a few spots untiled, drilling holes through the board and into the entertainment center in those spots and putting a nut and bolt through to secure it. Then I would just go back and affix the tile over the bolt. I'm not sure if this is feasible. Perhaps using a strong epoxy or adhesive is my best option but that might be too permanent if we wanted to re-purpose the tiled board.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated!


texts: What type of outdoor breaker/disconnect for two buildings?

texts:
I am going to be building a larger garage. I am looking to put a 200amp service in the building. I had the power company come out and check my feeder lines and confirm that I had sufficient service for this. For my plan they say everything is okay on their side. They will be replacing my meter with a new one when I begin this project and with that I have to have a disconnect/breaker under the meter can. They also said that with the meter I can run the 200 amp service in the house and the 200 amp service in the garage off this can.

So what I am trying to figure out (since there were not much help) is what type of disconnect/breaker box can I use below the meter can to feed both buildings? I would prefer to have a breaker set up one for each (house & garage) but not necessary. Main goal is to be able to run 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 to both service panels. I dot particularly want to have the meter can, a disconnect, then two other boxes mounted on this pole.

I hope all this makes sense. Any help would be appreciated.

If you have an item/part number that would be amazing. I have a Lowe’s, Home Depot, and Menards close.

Again, thanks for the help.


texts: How do cedar and pine compare as decking materials?

texts: I'm replacing an old deck in my backyard.  The existing deck is about 15X15 and is at ground level.  I'm trying to decide between treated pine (Ac2) and cedar.  Synthetic/composite wood is too expensive and I like the look/feel of real wood.  I live in Minnesota, so we get a good amount of harsh weather.  Cedar is a bit more expensive, but I just love the appearance.  Treated pine lasts about the same amount of time, and is cheaper (or so I'm told).  Does one material require less maintenance than the other?  Is it suggested that I stain/seal either material?


texts: Replace window with New Construction window

texts:
I am looking to replace some windows. The current ones are quite old and the wood trim/etc around the windows are decent..but a low decent. (not great). Now I do know I could just replace them with the 'pocket' or 'builders' version which uses the existing trim and just fits in place. My only concern is that the windows and trim is not the greatest and I don't trust that those are in good enough shape to keep.

Now the question is if I replaced it with a new construction, what would I have to do to install them without needing to replace siding? My Concern is if I replace the windows, they will be too small that I will need to add siding to fit them into their previous opening.


texts: How can I set up my somfy controlled blinds to go up and down at specific time periods?

texts:
Our kitchen at work gets really hot when the sun sets, so I want the RF Somfy controlled blinds to automatically go down at some pre-programmed time (ideally I could automate this by date and season since the sunset and sunrise will change all year).

I found an INSTEON adaptor which will talk RF to the blinds, but I don't know anything about INSTEON or how it works.  My best bet seems to buy the INSTEON desktop software but there are 3 different kinds, so not sure which one to get.

I have a computer in my office I could install the software on, but how would it talk to the INSTEON adaptor in the kitchen? (Our offices are on a separate electrical circuit from the kitchen - not sure if that's how INSTEON works)


texts: Removing cartridge from mixer tap - recessed nut

texts:
I am trying to remove a cartridge from a mixer tap, and faced with this recessed nut that I cannot get a wrench around. It's also an unusual shape (well, not hexagonal). There is no maker name on the tap. Any tips for removing the cartridge?
Best
Barry


texts: Will gfci receptacles trip before a gfci breaker on same circuit

texts:
A 2nd floor bathroom I am remodeling has receptacles protected by gfci breaker in the panel which is in the basement.

A previous contractor put gfci receptacles at two locations over vanity.

Is there a good reason for having these receptacles gfci’d?  For example would the receptacle trip and prevent the breaker from tripping?

That may be nice since it would prevent a trek down 2 flights of stairs to reset it.

Is that sound reasoning?

Edit:  I double checked and the breaker is a gfci not an afci.


texts: Is there an alternative to the pvc/plastic garage weatherstripping (stop molding)?

texts:
Our garage has plastic weatherstripping with attached rubber around the perimeter of the garage.  It butts up against the actual metal garage wrap.  We noticed it is starting to buckle.

Are there better alternatives to this type of weatherstripping?


texts: Joist hangers to use for rough cut 2x8 (2 3/4" x 8 3/4")?

texts:
I'm looking for the right size joist hangers for my project. I have an old house with rough cut oversized joists and can't seem to find a joist hangers that will work. I'm nailing into a 2x10 ledger.

The joist actual dimensions are: 2 3/4" w x 8 3/4" h


texts: How long should I wait before painting a concrete patch?

texts: How long do I have to wait to paint a polymer concrete repair such as Sakrete Top N Bond with Behr one part epoxy concrete paint? The repair is indoor and temp. is about 60 degrees F.


texts:
I would appreciate it if anybody could tell me what type of window latch is in the picture below?
I bought a house and need to change a couple of these that are broken.
Thank you!


texts: What screen to use to keep flies and gnats out at night?

texts: Every Summer, I like having the windows open in my house. The problem is that if there is a light on, small flies and gnats always come in through the window screen as they are drawn to the light. I think that the flies are smaller than the holes in the screen. Does anyone know if there is a window screen to prevent them from coming in?


texts: Did I damage the breaker by incorrectly wiring a generator?

texts: During a power outage I attached my generator incorrectly (I have never done this before - I just was not paying attention).  Anyway, I crossed the ground at the box with the black. When I turned on the power and then the specific circuits inside the nearest GFCI arced and smoked.  I turned off the power immediately and found my error. The rest of the house is working fine now on generator power but the one GFCI outlet will now trip every time I turn on that specific circuit which feeds a run in the basement. I did replace this outlet with a new equal amperage GFCI.  Did I damage the specific breaker?  As I said, everything else is working properly and no trips or issues - just this breaker.  It is immediately adjacent to the board in the basement.


texts: Would a failing igniter cause my furnace to blow cold air?

texts:
I noticed tonight my furnace was firing up, but not actually blowing out heat. I turned the thermostat down so it was no longer triggering it, let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then turned it back up: it ran fine and started blowing warm air. This lasted for an hour, maybe two, then it happened again.

Is the igniter going bad?


texts:
My house is 65 yrs. old.  It has a 4' high crawl space with a gravel floor.  There is sheathing on the walls.  Plastic sheeting was placed on the floor when we bought it 37 years ago and we have had no problems.
Several years ago, I noticed a damp corner on the floor where it looks like sand has risen to the top of the gravel and there are white marks on the sheathing which came off easily with a scrub brush.
There was a dehumidifier in place (with a bucket collector) which failed but we have not replaced yet but will do so once the problem is solved.
How can we tell where the water is coming from and what should we do to correct it?


texts: how can I seal a leaky coupling nut on my toilet??? using T-joint for bidet attachment

texts:
I am trying to install a bidet attachment to my toilet.

In a nutshell, you have to detach the supply line from the fill valve and add a T-joint. This T-joint will then run water to the bidet attachment, and also allow the supply line to be reconnected.

See below image.

The problem is, when I reattach everything, the supply line connection to the T-joint is now leaking. It does not leak when attached to the fill valve so I think there is some imperfections with the T-join threads (??)

My supply line looks like this, and looks like it has some rubber inside for making the seal

My first thought was just to use plumbers tape but I read they should not be used on connections like this.

Any suggestions? I don't believe the supply line is the issue because it works fine without the T-joint so dont think replacing it would do anything...

Much appreciated.


texts: What is the purpose of these attachments on my picture frame?

texts:
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm trying to hang a picture and I was wondering what these metal attachments are on the back of the frame. There are two of them.

Am I supposed to use them for hanging the picture, or are they simply there to stop the frame from tilting in at the top?


texts: AC current existing on cable company Cable TV / Internet Coaxial Cable

texts:
Is AC current on Cox Cable Coaxial cable (cable TV/Internet service) something I need to get fixed?.
Using a Fluke 322 clamp meter I measure 0.02 amperes AC reading on the COX coaxial cable, measured at the point where the cable exits the inner wall of my house.  I get 0.00 - 0.01 amperes on the downstream side of the 3-way coaxial signal splitter (two TVs, and an Internet cable modem). The variance in measurements may be due to meter accuracy.
Using the clamp meter I measure 0.35 amperes AC on the Cox cable coaxial cable immediately upstream of the entrance box (outside the house).  Additionally, the ground wire from the cable entrance box shows 0.28 - 0.31 amperes AC.  This ground wire (solid copper AWG 10 or 12) connects to the household grounding electrode system which consists of three (3) properly sized grounding electrodes connected (bonded) together and spaced at 6 foot intervals.  The ground wire run from the cable entrance to the ground rod connection is approximately 50 feet.  The Cox cable in my neighborhood is underground.  By the way, I ran the grounding wire from the coax outside entry point as the cable company had not grounded the cable at the house entrance.
It appears that most of the current from the Cox cable coaxial cable is bleeding off onto the ground wire.
This Issue is similar to the issue, subject: AC Voltage on Coaxial Cable (Cable TV)
at: AC Voltage on Coaxial Cable (Cable TV)


texts: Can I hard wire two LED shop lights to one power line?

texts:
The room where my boiler is located is currently lit by a simple porcelain lampholder with a switch in the wall. The lampholder is located somewhat near the middle of the long and narrow room. About 10 feet long and 3 feet wide.

I'd like to replace it with an LED shop light that has a short wire coming out the side for hard wiring. (See image below)

My question is: can I wire two shop lights directly to the line source? In other words, can I wire nut 3 wires together (3 black, 3 white, 3 grounds)? Do I need to use the same type of light or can I use different kinds? The wires would all be in the existing ceiling box, covered with a plate that has a hole in the center to allow the light's wire to come through.


texts: Can I square off a uPVC door sill which is inside a conservatory?

texts:
I have a uPVC door between a dining room and a conservatory. On the conservatory side there is the uPVC sill, this sill is inside the conservatory and the existing tiles match up to the edge of the sill nicely.
I am laying laminate down on top of the tiles in the conservatory, the combined height of the tiles, underlay, and laminate would mean the laminate would come slightly over the lip of the uPVC sill and create a messy edge to finish.
I am planning to cut the uPVC sill out with a multi-tool at the base of the door frame and square off the sill so the laminate would be able to finish neatly at the base of the door frame where I can then apply a wood bead between the laminate and frame.
Would taking out a portion of the sill affect the integrity of the uPVC frame?


texts: Line tester reads power to 220V outlet when the breaker is off

texts: Bought a house in May that came with a window air conditioner connected to a 220V outlet. The air conditioner is gone with no plan to replace so I want to remove the outlet. I went to the breaker, flipped the double pole 20A breaker to "Off" and then use my power line tester to make sure the wire was not live and to my surprise, the line is still live. I confirmed I am turning off the correct breaker. What am I missing?


texts: I just bought an impact driver. When I use it on a 2 inch wood screw into hard wood, after drilling a pilot hole, I seem to shred the screw head.  What are the tricks to using impact driver?


texts:
Hi someone was cleaning the dust off a ceiling fan in my house today and the screw broke off from the ceiling so we had to take it apart to fix it.

Now we are trying to figure out the wiring the person that removed it didn't check what went into what. The ceiling has a black wire, blue wire and a green wire which I guess is the ground. The ceiling fan has a white wire, blue wire and black wire. The black wire on the ceiling fan says motor, blue says light and white says neutral.

We tried the obvious black to black and blue to blue it didn't seem to work at all. We then tried black to black and blue and white to blue. And that seems to get the fan working but the light doesn't and switch on the wall is able to turn the fan off and on with this wiring.

Also the fan has two pull cords one of the light and one for the fan. It also has a switch on the side I guess to turn it off since the fan won't spin when its pushed to one side.

Are we doing something wrong? We thought of trying the blue/black from ceiling fan to the black on the ceiling since the black is working for the motor but we aren't sure if that was dangerous to try.

Also the fan is a Harbor Breeze brand unit.

The wiring from the fan.

The wiring from the ceiling.

Also here is a closer picture of the green wire its only connected to the screw on the bracket on the ceiling. I don't see anywhere it goes on the ceiling fan.


texts: What is the best way to remove a non load bearing wall?

texts:
I have a wall that I want to knock out as part of a kitchen remodel.  The wall is non load bearing, so its fine to take out.  The question is, what's the best way to do it?

I imagine there's not a whole lot of finesse to it, but are there are some techniques to avoid wreaking the ceiling, floor and other connecting walls?

Also, the wall is lath-and-plaster and not the usual drywall.  Will that affect things?

The wall has 1 electrical outlet in the lower corner, and no other electrical or plumbing runs through it.

My guess is it would go something like is:

Cut power at breaker (duh)
Remove plaster (how?)
Remove electrical line.
Remove wall frame (sawzal + pry bar?)

Is this about right?


texts:
I’ve a block of 4 switches in my house. One switch doesn’t work. Like it doesn’t do anything near as I can tell. How to make this a 3 gang?  There a thing as a 4 plate cover with a blank? May look silly to me.

Ok so my guess is the one switch went to an outlet in the middle of the icing room floor but I never checked it and I’ve removed the outlet a few years ago.


texts: How can you open the top part of a double-hung window when you are old and short?

texts:
How can you open the top of a double-hung window when you are short and elderly?  I have air conditioners on the bottom of the windows, but I would like some fresh air on cool days.  I am in no shape to remove the air conditioners. I thought perhaps something like a garden hoe might work.

Can you help?


texts:
We are updating a small basement bathroom.  We agree on the style and materials, but not exactly on the method of installation.  The idea is to put tile down on the floor, and use tile-board for the walls.  Do we install the floor tile first, or the tile-board first?

Thanks for the help!


texts: How can I replace ceiling gypsum board and loose fill insulation at the same time?

texts: I lost most of a ceiling panel due to water saturation and collapse. It was removed along with insulation residue and a temporary fiber board panel tacked in in its place. Now I would like to install the permanent gypsum board, full 4 by 8 but the problem is how to restore loose fill insulation layer (only) on top of the new rock but the joist would interfere and there's no practical way to blow or throw it going into the attic. I have a drywall jack/lift. I am looking for good idea for lifting insulation along with the panel and thought maybe someone else has encountered this kind of rehab challenge.


texts: Is there something wrong with this energy efficient window?

texts:
There appears to be moisture build up for a single window in a room. Cant tell if its inside or outside the insulation layer.

This is a double panel window (filled with argon gas).


texts:
I recently bought a really old house and the light outside has not been working. I just found that there was a little solar battery charger laying on the floor of my front yard, broken to pieces. So I want to replace the solar battery pack with a new one so I can get my lights going again, but I have not found what I am looking for.
The current (and broken) battery pack is about 12" wide, 4" deep. It comes with 3 rechargeable AA Batteries in the back, an On/Off switch, and a bunch of wires coming out of it. The battery pack had a wire coming out of it that was attached to the lamp post itself.
I am absolutely ignorant to anything electrical, but I think I could manage wiring it all up if I can find the right item. The problem is, all I can find is trickle battery chargers for 12-volt batteries. I don't want that, I want something with rechargeable AA batteries in it. I would prefer something that can take 6 or 8 AA Batteries, as I would like for my lights to stay on through the night.
Does anyone have any ideas on what I am looking for? I have searched for, and many variants of, the words "Solar Battery Charger Pack" but no luck. Would a 12-volt trickle down charger work for me? I did not think it would, since it does not hold any charge but just charges right then and there.


texts: I have very low voltage at times hovering around 99v, usually when the A/C is on and everyone in my area is running theirs as well. I have 240v outlets for my appliances and wanted to know if there is a way to step down the 240v circuit to provide a constant 120v to my home.


texts: What could cause poor drainage in the kitchen and baths?

texts:
After having my septic system (tank) cleaned about a month ago, I've noticed a foul odor in the bathroom of the master bedroom. I've also noticed the smell outside near the master bedroom.  It's not smelling in any other part of the house. A couple of weeks later I noticed that the kitchen sink is not draining properly, but only on the right side. The bathtub isn't draining properly nor are the toilets flushing properly. The toilets flush as if they're not getting enough pressure or water flow. After flushing the toilet twice and sometimes a third time then it will flush where you can hear the flushing sound that lets you know it has flushed.

What could possibly be wrong?


texts: Laminate flooring direction in large room

texts:
My room is 24x42
Estetically I'd like the planks to run long
It's a good quality laminate that is floating

I'm told that if I go long, it's too long and will require a seam. (Ugly!)

So I'm advised to lay planks the short way

Ideas? Suggestions? Feedback?


texts: Should a hole develop in the tip of a thermocouple after it is installed in a gas heater and lighted?

texts:
I just replaced the thermocouple in my gas heater as the pilot wouldn't stay on after lighting. The old thermocouple had developed a hole in the tip and the tip was discolored when I removed it.

I checked the pilot today and it went off sometime today or yesterday. I noticed that the new thermocouple developed a hole in the tip and the tip was also somewhat discolored.

I relighted the pilot and it appears to still work fine.

Is the thermocouple suppose to develop a hole in the tip after being exposed to the pilot flame for a few days?

Edit: I have removed the thermocouple and it is not a hole, but just discoloring. I have cleaned the tip and reinstalled it.

Picture:


texts: How to cut glass mosaic tile that's already installed?

texts: I need extra outlets in my kitchen and in order to install a bigger junction box, I need to cut the glass tile that's already installed. Is it feasible and, if so, what's the most effective tool to use?


texts: I really like this wood privacy fence.  Anybody know what kind of wood/stain they used to create this red and yellow effect?  Thank you!


texts: What is the smallest and lightest wire I can use?

texts:
I currently use a regular 50 foot power cord rated for 15 amps. I use it only for two laptops and one camera, making a draw of about 5 amps at 120 volts, according to the "input" label on the power supplies.

The 50 foot cord is heavy and I would like to find a lighter replacement. I have seen cords rated for 13 amps that are a bit lighter, but I think I can do better.

If I buy some wire and attach standard power plugs that you can buy at the hardware store, what is the smallest gauge I can safely use, assuming I never try to draw higher than the gear listed above? Would this also be safe for 100 foot power runs, if I connect two 50 foot cords together?

To be clear, I'm in the usa and power would always come from standard plugs.


texts: French doors are falling apart and don't close

texts:
I have a pair of french doors in my place not much unlike these

The seams at the top of the door are coming apart and now they overlap when they shut and you have to open them both a bit, line them up, then close them together. If I push on the door toward the hinge - pretty much pushing the doors back together - they work for a few times.

Am I able to glue them back together? What's the best way to solve this problem?


texts:
There’s this dark stuff that is caked in some of the windows on our house.
I am not sure if it’s dirt/debris that got in there or if it is mold. Also don’t know what that part of the window is called.
Is there any way to take that apart and clean them or do I just have to replace?


texts: What is the recommended gap between boards when adding a subfloor?

texts: I am laying a 3/4 inch subfloor over a 2” foam barrier. Do the subfloor boards butt up against each other or should there be a gap? I’m presuming a small gap to avoid squeaking? And if a gap, so they need to be caulked?


texts: My kid threw small cars into the toilet and opened the water, we tried to open the clogging with pompa and it didn't help ... how can you fix or call a professional?


texts:
I'm going to share this question and answer it myself because someone else may have had this problem.

I have several Pella doors in my home with the 3 point locks (top and bottom "shootbolts" and a dead bolt near the handle).  They have been problematic.  The locking mechanism on a couple of rarely used doors would hardly work anymore (very stiff and wouldn't lock anymore).  So I disassembled them, cleaned up the runners and other parts, applied a good lube, reassembled and they worked again. They are a pain to take apart, re-adjust and reassemble.

Recently they started doing the same thing. I though oh no, not again. I didn't initially consider there might have been a new cause.  What could that cause be?

OK, that's the teaser, I'll answer my own question straight away (as our British friends would say).   I hope that's the right approach for SE, I think I saw somewhere you could answer your own questions.


texts: Sump pump horizontal distance - Why do 90 deg angles put more load on the pump after a vertical drop?

texts:
I'm installing a new sump pump basin in a new location in my crawl space. I currently have a Zoeller M53 1/3 HP. The discharge pipe will come out the back of my house, but I want to bring the discharge to daylight near a ditch at the front of my house. So basically, the pipe will need to do a 180 from the back of the house to the front. I can use 45s to lessen the load. Unfortunately, I can't have the discharge pipe come out of the foundation in the front of the house or the side given the basin location. I also want to hide the discharge coming out of the foundation in the back of my house and behind a bush.
The picture here shows how the discharge pipe comes out of my crawl space.

From here, I'll need to use a 90 (or 2 45s) so the discharge goes from the back of my house to the side of my house. Then do the same so it goes out front. This will basically equate to 8 45 degree elbows and 1 90 degree elbow. There will be roughly 150' of horizontal pipe. Overall, this seems like quite a bit of load on the pump.
This picture explains what I mean. In the picture I'm just using 90s for visualization, but could use 45s if that would lessen the load on the pump.

My question is, why does the number of turns and horizontal distance after the downward 90 degree elbow (where the freeze guard is) matter? After the pipe enters the ground, the pipe will be sloped and gravity will help push the water to the end. It seems like after the pipe leaves the foundation of my house and goes downward, there shouldn't be any extra load on the pump.


texts: How to re-insulate space between window trim and wall?

texts:
Just took off old window mouldings (need to change them) and figure I will need to better insulate the space between the window trim and the wall. The "wall" consists of:

a painted layer of thin 3mm (1/8 in) plywood or similar, followed by
2cm (3/4 inch) of styrofoam,
after which there's something more solid that crumbles easily.

All are visible on the photo from right to left: plywood, styrofoam, crumbly solid stuff, some of the pink fiberglass insulation, white window trim.

The pink fiberglass insulation was either used rather sparingly or it somehow shrank with time, so there are gaps.

What's the most appropriate course of action? Add fiberglass insulation? Remove it and spray foam into the gap? Some combination of the two? Something else altogether?

Finally, there's already this question, but it's not about the trim/wall at all.


texts: how to run ceiling joists across a 15' room with no ceiling

texts: removed some metal T system drop ceilings now I want sheetrock but not sure best way to run ceiling joists across 15' room if I go with 8' 2x4 how do I tie them together towards center of room to prevent slag Edit if room is only like 14' can I just run a 15' 2x4 across span of room or do I have to buy engineered joists even though only weight I'll be making them hold is sheetrock


texts: Replacing 23 year old 190 limiter for ceiling fan

texts:
I have a 23 year old Harbor Breeze ceiling fan. The 190 limiter burnt out.
Removed the limiter which has just two blue wires coming from it. Limiter was made in China.
Can only find a replacement limiter with 3 wires (Blue, Red, White). Can I assume that the white wire is the ground wire and what in the fan can I ground it to?


texts: Installing a solid wood tabletop on this steel frame

texts:
I would like to screw this solid wood tabletop (the long one in the back, it's beech wood)

onto this steel frame.

The slab's dimensions are going to be 200 x 80 cm. I read that "wood moves", so I would have to screw the table top on in a way that allows for movement.

The problem is that none of the methods that I've read about that allow for movement are compatible with the screw holes facing up in the frame.

How can I solve this? Should I worry about movement for this type of tabletop at all or can I just screw it fixed?

Here's another photo of how the wood is supposed to look after it's been oiled:


texts: How can I dry out and reseal this corroding railing to prevent further damage?

texts:
This railing on our deck is exposed to the elements (in Chicago, so rain and snow), and has corroded through. The railing is hollow, and it seems to be completely full of water. It's swollen near the corrosion site, and I assume it'll get worse quickly now that it's in this condition.
I'd like to drain out the water and seal the top, but I can't imagine successfully wicking all the water out, and don't know how to go about perforating the bottom, for it to drain completely. How might an experienced DIY-er deal with this problem?

Edit: Thank you all so much for the awesome responses - I'm going to talk through the options with my spouse and we'll figure out which to try!


texts: Bad smell from disherwasher - is this a bad setup?

texts:
I've been noticing a bad sewer-like smell that happens when I run the dish washer. The house is older, and the setup under the kitchen sink is a bit confusing. There was once a garbage disposal, but it was removed. The Torani bottle you can see in the picture is full after the dishwasher runs.

My first thought is that I need to clean the trap, and the second is that the black hose should either be higher than the drain from the sink. But the whole setup seems weird. Is something wrong the setup?


texts: Can I use just molding to hold down a floating floor or must I use quarter-round?

texts: I am installing a floating floor (click-lock). The molding is all coming off anyway. Can I use just molding to hold the floating floor down or must I use molding AND quarter-round??


texts: Can I use dense foam board instead of paver base for laying patio pavers?

texts: I was told blue dense styrofoam that they use for housing walls would work the same as the expensive EZ Base. Thoughts?


texts: Using regular water heater for hydronic radiators

texts:
My house is old and has radiator heat, which is heated by a gas furnace from which the hot water is pumped through 7 radiators and back in. Hypothetically, and by no means would I ever want to do this to my system, if gas became unavailable in my area, would it be possible for me to adapt a regular electric water heater and mount a pump nearby to circulate water through the system like the present one does with gas?

Another way to ask is, what if I were designing a radiant hydronic floor heating system and my only source of energy were electric. I'm sure there are specialized heaters for that purpose that have a pump built in but, if I wanted to make my own (for experiment's sake), could I do it with a regular electric water heater and a pump?

At first thought, I don't see why not and I think the most complicated part would be designing a wiring control that works with the thermostat and connects the heater and the pump. I'm asking this primarily to understand the visceral concepts of heating and associated devices. Of course, unlike with a residential water heater that has open inlet for new water to come in, in this case it would have to be on a closed system which itself has a fill valve and a backflow adapter.


texts: How can I cut off steel clothes line poles?

texts: What would be the best way to cut a old clothes line pipe? Believe it is steel not sure It is very sturdy and old.


texts:
The bathtub at my new place isn't in horrible condition, but it does have a few patches on the bottom that look a bit grayer than the rest of the tub, and are rougher.  In general the bottom is not as smooth as the sides.  We think it is a cast iron bathtub (at least the bottom is all black when we look through an access panel), but we're not sure.  There's no rust showing through.

Would it be a good idea to get it refinished now to protect the tub from further damage?  Or is a new coat of glazing not significantly protective, in which case maybe we should just wait until we really don't like how it looks before spending the money (especially since the refinished surface won't last that many years either)?


texts: Crooked compression fitting: leave be or replace again

texts: I installed my first compression fitting (fridge water line) and when I was all done I discovered that it looks like it is slightly crooked.  I'm not sure if this means that I bent the pipe or perhaps did something wrong with the compression fitting itself.  I finished it all up, turned on the water, checked very incredulously, and found that it didn't leak.  I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it for a couple days, but I also can't help wonder if I should just cut it off and try again with a new fitting (there is plenty of room on the pipe).  Any guesses if this is okay or a sign of a problem?  In case it isn't obvious, this is my first attempt at plumbing.


texts: What Pex system and re-design would you use for this small bungalow update - Floor Plans Attached?

texts:
There is a small Bungalow in the Midwest that I have attached two new design drawings for.  Its a smaller 740sqft home with a 1st floor and current unfinished basement.  I wanted to see if the group had any opinions on how they would plumb the basement/upstairs based on the new drawings in pex.  I have read a little bit about Truck/Branch design, Home-Run Manifold, and Submanifold systems.

Currently the entire house is demo'd down to the studs, included ceilings, so it's a wide open box on both levels.  The basement is unfinished with an 8" poured foundation.  Home is wood framed with aluminum siding.  Most of the work will be in the basement.  Space will be divided into two halves.  North side will be two bedrooms with proper egress and two small bathrooms close to one another.  The lower half will be some extra living space to the left and the right side will be the new space for the washer/dryer, utility sink, and a pet washing station (a laundry wall).  The plan is to replace the current water heater with a gas tankless version.

So if any of you that have an opinion from looking at these drawings....that would be extremely appreciated.

Thanks a ton in advance - JP


texts: Can I put in a vented bathroom fan in my condo

texts: I just purchased a condo in Myrtle Beach, SC - it is the first time I have owned a condo versus a house. While exploring, I found that the bathroom fans don't vent outside, they just circulate the air in the bathroom. We are planning to remodel the bathroom, and would really prefer a vented fan (assuming we can talk the HOA into putting a vent in the outside wall). But I am wondering if the ventless fan is due to fire regulations. Our condo has sprinklers and dampers on the HVAC vents that apparently close when a fire is detected. Is this possibly why the bathroom fans aren't vented outside? Does anyone know a code-related reason why a bathroom could not have a vented fan?


texts: can i use a 15 amp GFCI outlet in a 20 amp circuit?

texts: I am installing two GFCI outlets in an outdoor Gazebo, can I use a 15 amp GFCI receptacle if the circuit is 20 amps?


texts: How to frame a rough opening on an existing header?

texts: I am trying to convert my garage, and the garage door wall has a header on it. I am trying to frame a wall with a rough opening for a window and was wondering how I would fit the king studs, do I build a new header underneath or just have two jack studs?


texts: How can I fix a broken "off" switch on a sump pump after overheating?

texts:
We have a sump pump in our basement. It uses a float switch to turn on when the basin its in fills with water.

We recently ran into an issue where it didn't turn off while we were out (float switch stuck), so came home to the motor sounding horrible and it overheating. Immediately unplugged it and dumped a bunch of cold water into the basin to cool it down, since the pump itself was extremely hot and smelled like something was burning.

Ever since then, we have not been able to get it to turn off. As soon as we plug it in, the pump starts up regardless of float switch placement. The float switch itself appears fine, and we can hear a "click" when we flip it up or down, but the pump does not turn off.

Can overheating a sump pump cause this kind of failure in the on/off switch? And if so, is it something easy to fix, or would it be best to hire a professional or just get a new pump?

I don't know the exact model number until we unhook all the pipes to remove and clean it off (maybe after work today), however it is a small pump from Wayne Water Systems that looks very similar to this one


texts: How to swap a series outlet with smart outlet

texts: I have a series outlet that has two black wires and two white wires that I want to swap out with a new smart outlet so I can control it with wifi. But the new outlet only has screws for one black and one white wires. How do I hook up the new outlet? Is it possible?


texts: I bought a new bath fan for my old house(1920s).  Where the fan is installed, there is a power/black, and a neutral, but no ground wire to connect to it.  It's old knob and tube wiring.  Is no ground pretty common with old houses?  The new fan has a black, white, and a green wire, is there a safe way to install it?  What should I connect the green wire from the fan housing to?  What is the danger of leaving it disconnected?


texts: How should I fill the gap between window trim and walls?

texts:
I recently moved to a home (new to me). One thing that is bothering me quite a bit is a gap between wall and window trim. You can see the picture below. How do I get rid of this? What are the basic steps involved?

Click photo for full size


texts: Is there a proper way to fill an electrical panel?

texts:
I'm installing a subpanel and will submite a panel schedule with my permit application.  I have never installed a panel before, so I wonder if there is a proper way to install the breakers.  Should larger breakers (more amps/double pole) go farthest away from the main breaker (does it matter)?  Also, should I fill in one side of the panel first, or try to fill it from top down keeping each side balanced?
My understanding is that either way the load should be evenly distributed across the two legs (panel will have 240V).


texts:
ok to start with I was going to change my hall way lights but first was going to install a dimmer at the top of the stairs, well long story short when I pulled out the old  switch and yes I did not turn off power and pop the circuit breaker, then I noticed that my stair lights were out, thinking I broke the 3 way switch I replaced it and quite sure I did it right, well no lights.
 also replaced the dimmer sw down stairs and checked that the breaker was good, voltage at both terminals, there was, power from box has two black wires, upstairs has 1 black 1 red and one white plus the ground.
there is no hot wire upstairs I get a flicker of voltage on the white wire but not a constant voltage.
and yes I checked the bulbs, which was not an easy thing to do because they are so high up, HELP I'm lost  I did not mess with the sw that controls the stair lights when I pulled out the sw next to it that's when I pop the breaker.


texts: Is a lip necessary on an HVAC ceiling register boot for use with flexible ducting?

texts:
I've installed some new ceiling register boots to use with flexible ducting and realized after install that they have a smooth connection with no lip. I'm assuming they are made for metal ducting, as I think flexible requires a lip for a tight connection. How can I securely attach flexible ducting?

One idea I had was putting five or six screws around the connection to act as a lip. I also thought maybe there is a tool that I could make some dimples that would do the same thing. Is a lip even necessary for a solid connection?

Thoughts?

UPDATE: Since I don't really know the proper names for things, I think pictures might help.

Here is pretty close to what I have:

Here is the lip I'm talking about that is on the current register boxes:

Here is one with no lip:

On my current ducts, there are two zip-ties, one on the inner core and one on the outer insulation. The inner core zip tie is behind the "lip". I assumed this was necessary for a solid connection (Note: I'm using mastic, not tape. Whether one is better than the other is another topic). Here's a picture of the inner core I was referring to that I want to put the zip-tie on.

So I've now changed my question to: Is that lip needed and if so, any way to fake it if not there?


texts: Does a split neutral conform to the NEC?

texts:
I am a Building Inspector and recently have came across a question about splitting the neutral wire between the garbage disposal and the dishwasher. I am unable to locate this in the 2011 NEC. Does anyone know where I may locate this?

Thank you,
Wendy


texts: Kenmore washer spin cycle drains but doesn't rotate

texts:
My Kenmore washer is Kenmore Elite 110.22952102 (Top Load washer). In the perm press cycle at the end the clothes are wet. Below is my troubleshooting observation on the unit, based on it, could you please point me to the part that needs the repair and how to go about repairing it.

During the washer cycle, the agitator rotates and washes the cloth properly.
The end cycle (Spin cycle), agitator doesn't rotate and also the tub doesn't spin either. However at the end of the spin cycle all the water is drained.

Please assist me.


texts: Is the neutral outside of the plug dangerous while carrying current?

texts: I accidentally bought bulbs that has too long of a stem for my bathroom vanity. It also has a very larger upper region that makes it very touchable. How dangerous is this metal area that is exposed when the power is on? Is this safe to use?


texts: Restrictions on 45 on bottom of vertical Drain Main

texts:
I'm getting ready to install a vertical 4" pipe to serve an upstairs bathroom and vent to the roof.  At the bottom, in the basement, I want to install 2 45 degree bends to get from the wall out into the middle of the basement.

Are there any restrictions on using a 45 at the middle of the stack or how long it can be?  I'd like to run 45 degrees for 16" then go to horizontal for a few feet before dropping the rest of the way to the basement floor.


texts: We bought a house built in 1972. It has cathedral ceilings and tongue and groove throughout. The house is u shaped and the tongue and groove is not only the ceilings but the north and south walls, thus the roof extends down and encompasses the exterior walls. None of it is insulated and ventilation is poor. Needless to say our power bills are atrocious! It is time to re-roof/side our home and we want to fix the problem. We want to keep the tongue and groove on the inside. We had a mold re-mediator come and inspect and fortunately we don't have much of a problem. The roof is leaking in a few spots causing some moisture. I am looking for the best way to fix all of these issues at one time. My husband thinks he is capable but I won't let him on the roof at 72 years old...HELP!


texts: Sink drainage leaking into dishwasher inlet

texts: Just installed new dishwasher. Dishwasher fills, cleans and empties without issue. Hours later found water in bottom of dishwasher. Turns out when I empty say a pitcher of water into the sink, water trickles into the dishwasher from the inlet, not the drain. Faucet is not on when this happens. I cannot understand how this is even occurring. I then turn on dishwasher and cancel it, and it empties no problem from the drain.


texts: Replacement part for coal stove blower rheostat

texts: I have an Alaskan coal stove and my blower rheostat broke this morning. I opened it up hoping to be able to fix the part instead of buying a whole new fan controller. Any motor controllers that I found online have two inputs and two outputs, while this part only has one of each. I don't really know anything about how the blower is electrically designed. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what kind of replacement part I need?


texts: What to use to lower the computer noise in a wooden cabinet?

texts:
I am looking for a good material for improving the sound-proofing my NAS which has 2x FANs of 120mm and 3-4 hard-drives. Most of the time the hardrives are those that are producing audible sounds, not the coolers.

Due to the lack of space I think that I cannot put material that has more than 1cm deep, as I will run out of space.

Please refrain from adding hints regarding reconfiguring the device or moving it to a different location, this question aims to address sound isolation of a small wooden (or particle board) like the one in the photo.


texts: Bosch washing machine - replaced motor brushes, motor now "fizzes"

texts:
The drum in my Bosch Serie 8 washing machine stopped turning recently and after a bit of internet research it sounded like the motor brushes had worn down. I bought new "official" (allegedly) brushes from a reputable website and replaced them - the old ones were definitely worn down to nothing compared to the new ones so I figured that would solve the problem.
However, having put it all back together again, the motor is only turning intermittently in short stutters, makes an electrical fizzing sound when it turns, and gives off a faint burning smell like underneath the scalectrix cars I had as a kid.
I'm pretty sure I put the brushes in the right way round and reconnected everything correctly, but there's obviously something wrong somewhere.
Other relevant info:
I can't upload a video with sound, but here's an animated gif in case it helps:

The first time I turned it on and started a simple "rinse" cycle there was a flash inside the drum and it blew the RCD for the kitchen sockets where the washing machine is plugged in

I reset the RCD and tried again, and it's now doing the stuttering movement and fizzing thing

It happily draws water into the machine - it's just the motor / drum not turning properly

Is this possibly a problem with the new brushes, or my fitting of them? Or should I play it safe and just replace the whole machine?
Any help / pointers welcome...


texts: What should I do with the exposed grounding wire during a conversion from hardwired to plug in light fixture?

texts:
I am working to convert a hard wire light fixture which I have purchased to a plug in light fixture. The light fixture was designed for outdoor use, but I will be using it inside. Coming out of the light fixture is what seems to be a regular lamp cord for the hot and neutral, but there is a an exposed copper ground wire that is not protected/sheathed.

I am concerned about the ground wire being exposed because I plan to take the fixture, splice it onto an extension cord or other lamp wire, but so the lamp wire will look better going down the wall, I plan to threat the wire through metal chain.

What should I do about the ground wire in this case, it seems odd that it is exposed and would be hanging out by itself, but this is in the installation diagram so I guess its on purpose. Can I just cut the ground off since this is for indoor usage or is it safe running along the main cord with the chain around it?

Should I just by a regular extension cord (if so what gauge/rating) or are there certain things I need to know based on the light to choose a more power cord for this purpose? Want to make sure I ground and protect everything.

Edit: Reference Photo


texts: Can I add a three way switch to a light circuit when I only have access to light switch and it just cuts the power to the switch?

texts: I have a light switch that controls 2 lights in the hall.  The wire to the switch carries power to the switch with the black wire and the white wire carries the power to the light.  I have access to the switch box and can run a three wire (black, red, white) to the location for the other switch.  Can I wire this so I have three way switches?


texts: Is running over your extension cable with an electric lawn mower dangerous?

texts:
I'm currently about to buy a lawn mower, but don't know if I should take a fuel, electric with cable or battery one.

I'm leaning more towards electric with cable, because it's cheaper than battery and the price and the raising price of fuel won't screw me over in a few years.

But the only thing I'm wondering is what would be to happen if I run over my extension cord?

Will I just ruin an extention cord, or are there some serious health dangers to do so?


texts: Why does a shower valve make a buzzing noise when water is run elsewhere in my house?

texts:
The mixing valve in my shower makes an audible  sound when the water is running in the elsewhere in the house. For instance, when I'm running the sink in the kitchen it makes a quiet, but audible buzzing/humming/groaning noise. The kitchen is on the other side of the house, on a different branch of the water line. The water comes in from the street, runs down the middle of the house and splits off one way for the kitchen and the other way for the baths.
Why this is this happening and how can I fix it?


texts: How is a finish sander different than an orbital sander?

texts: Other than an orbital sander being circular and a finish being square, I was wondering if there are any other differences.  If I already own an orbital one, does it make sense to add a finish one to the portfolio?  I am currently doing some antique doorway and window trim restoration, I chemically removed the paint and now doing final polishes before I stain and lacquer.


texts: Can I split the direct wire to dishwasher to handle a garbage disposal as well?

texts:
I've just plumbed in a new garbage disposal unit under my sink. The plumbing appears to be fine - nothing is leaking so far.

Now I need to wire it in.

It's next to a dishwasher, but the dish-washer has a direct wire from the circuit box in the basement. I don't want a run a whole new circuit up from the basement, and I already have the romex for the dishwasher coming up, and wired into the dishwasher about 2 feet away.

What are my options for using that existing wire? Can I split it and direct wire both? Can I turn the romex into a socket, and plug both into that?

Something like this, but with a double-socket.


texts: Adding insulation to exterior wall; remove stucco cladding, or add on top of it?

texts: I have an exterior stucco wall that's not in super great condition. The outermost-layer was applied very badly and is flaking off, so doing a patch job or yet another layer seems like a bad idea because the layer it would be adhering to is itself not adhering well. As part of this project, I will be adding rigid foam insulation to the exterior side of the wall. My question is this: can I reasonably screw-and-glue the rigid panels right over the existing stucco cladding, or should I really remove all the prior layers of stucco first and attach the foam directly to the wall sheathing? Advantages and disadvantages to each?


texts: Install a ceiling light - confused on the ceiling wires color

texts:
Purchased a light and try to install by myself. The light does require a bulb. https://www.crateandbarrel.com/ivory-woven-rope-flushmount/s577632
Previous owner removed her light in this room before we moved in.
There is only one dimmer wall switch in this room.

Wires from light fixture with labels: Bare (ground?), Black (hot), White (netural), Green (ground). There is also a green screw on the bracket with label "GND".

Wires from ceiling (building): 4 colors: orange, red, blue, white/grey.

This is for ceiling light only. No fan.

My questions:

It looks like I got 2 ground wires from the light fixture. The green wire and bare copper one. Which one should I use to connect to the green screw on the metal bracket? or should I connect both of them?

What are the 4 color wires from the ceiling representing?

How should I connect those ceiling wires to the lamp wires?

Thanks for any suggestions.  The electrician quoted me $150 for this installation and I don't want to pay him to do the job. I can do it (with the help from this community!)

Update #1 12/9/2020  Used a GE LED A19 6W bulb

1st attempt: Connect orange from ceiling to black from light. The light wasn't working, but the wall switch has green light indicator.  *I am very confuesd on this attempt why the light was not working but the wall switch seems working (but can't make the light on).

2nd attempt: Unable to connect blue from ceiling to black from light because the blue wire didn't have the bare copper show up, looks like previous owner never used the blue wire. The material of the blue wire is very tough and wasn't easy to cut as compare to the soft ones from the light.

3rd attempt: Connect red from ceiling to black from light, the light is working!!! however, I can't turn the light off, this is because the wall switch was not working (compared to first try, this time no green light indicator on the wall switch - see the picture).

The wall switch is a dimmable type. (Previous owner's light is dimmable before I moved in). I am not sure if this has anything to do with first attempt & third attempt that require a seperate wire in order to have the switch working. I tried to unscrew the wall switch but couldn't go further as it looks like mounted to the wall can't be removed.
Summary: As per the user @Harper-ReinstateMonica suggested, the orange wire should be the hot one to use. But there looks like compatibility issues with the dimmer switch, I used a GE LED A19 (6W), relatively small one (energetic daylight) and the bulb box says dimmable >.<, I will try a different bulb.

Update #2 12/10/2020  Used a GE LED BR30 10W bulb

4th attempt: Similar to 1st attempt (using orange wire as hot), this time used a GE LED BR30 10W bulb, when push the dimmer switch, the indicator is flashing green light, the bulb is lighting but very very dark. The switch CAN'T make it lighter, or I should say "not really controllable".  (I thought the switch might be broken)

I finally manage to open the dimmer switch, turns out all three wires (red, orange, blue) are connected to the switch.  So, the question comes, should I try the blue one?  I have to strip it (it's weird if previous owner used the blue wire and cut the top portion when they removed the light).
Update #3 12/10/2020 used a GE 52W incandescent bulb

5th attempt: used a GE 52W incandescent bulb, everything worked out as expected! The dimmer wall switch is fine actually.

Update #4 12/13/2020 used a GE 52W incandescent bulb

6th attempt: I should made all wires connections inside the junction box not in the canopy of the fixture. The project is done, with special thanks to @Harper - Reinstate Monica.


texts: How can I mount an LCD TV onto the *wall* of an RV?

texts:
I have an RV and I want to mount a flat panel LCV TV onto the wall of the RV. Most people who put LCD's into their RVs put them up above the driver where wooden cabinetry exists, but I do not want to do that.

I want to mount the TV onto the wall of the RV, but I cannot find information about the nature of the walls -- are there studs, and if so, how far apart, how uniform, and of what material? Aside from studs, how much can the wall itself hold? What materials are made to even construct RV walls?

So ... how can I mount a 42-inch LCD TV onto the wall of my RV? And along with that, any information you can provide or point to about how RV walls are constructed would be most appreciated!


texts:
My old Waste King Special Edition 3/4 HP had this problem: when activated it started turning so rapidly that all water and filth accumulated in it gets thrown up into the air (splash guard did not help). It only happens in the first moment after activation - after that it worked OK.

Now it finally died and I am looking for a replacement. I do not want to get the same problem again.

Does anybody know what could have caused that problem? Was it common for that model?
I know that Waste King has high speed - 2700 RPMs, while Insinkerator only 1725. May be the high speed causes it? But then it should affect all Waste King models? Should I buy a different brand or different HP?
What is your experience?


texts: Are paving bricks differently sized for sand bedding vs mortar bedding?

texts:
I had been planning to lay standard clay pavers over a sand bed in my front walk. I had planned for a standard size of 4 x 8 and maybe 2 3/4 inches tall. However, the brick that I like comes in this size: 2-1/4 x 3-5/8 x 7-5/8. I  first thought that this was a smaller size specifically meant to be installed with a concrete foundation and mortar base. I would think that a shorter height makes it more susceptible to rotating if laid in sand, but this is not a problem when embedded in mortar.  And they are skinnier to fit into a standard brick size when surrounded by mortar.

Or, it doesn't matter.  The brick manufacturers picked one particular size to sell, and its up to the installer to decide sand or mortar bedding.

Can I still use the smaller bricks with a sand bed?


texts: Can I replace one of the units in a stackable washer/dryer combo?

texts: We have two individual units and the washer needs to be replaced but not the dryer.  One appliance store said I have to buy both washer and dryer/two new units.  If the dimensions are the same or as long as the washer is bigger than the dryer, is there a reason I have to buy a new dryer?  Are you able to mix brands or not wise?


texts: Toilet float adjustment screw is stuck - how can I fix this?

texts:
I was adjusting the water level in my toilet and I think I opened the float adjustment screw too far. It seems to have come disconnected from something. Now the float falls as far as it will go and the toilet runs indefinitely after a flush even though the float is low. The screw twists but does not move up and down. There is some plastic dust around it - I think from the internal threads, they're likely damaged. For the time being I've wedged something under it and remove it when I need to flush.
I'm at a total loss as to what to do long term. Ordinarily in this type of situation I would try to nudge the screw out or at worst extract it with some pliers. But I'm not sure it actually makes sense to remove the screw in this case.


texts: Toilet makes screeching/chirping sound when anyone in my building used water

texts:
Like the title says, when anyone in my building uses water, my toilet makes a really loud screeching/chirping sound. I've found that by pushing down on the black arm, the noise stops, but when the arm comes back up, the noise starts again.

Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this and/or how to keep the arm from coming all the way up?


texts: How do I weigh a kitchen island to determine what size castors to get?

texts: I need castors for a kitchen island. I need to know what to get. Do all the castors need to carry full weight or do I divide by 4 to get say 4 50lb to hold a 200lb cabinet for example?


texts:
AC unit won't turn on: both inside blower fan and outside fan unit won't turn on. It is as if I had gone to the circuit breaker and cut the power to the whole HVAC system, but I didn't. I've been searching around and saw that in most cases, either the inside or the outside unit won't turn on, but I have not found a case where both won't turn on.

The outside unit has a disconnect box that contains no fuse. I've double checked that the rabbits didn't somehow manage to take the connector piece out...

I've also replaced the old mercury-based thermostat with a new digital, battery-powered thermostat, which didn't help. I can hear the clicking sound it makes to turn on the AC, but nothing else happens.

It was working fine 5 days ago. I turned it off for 5 days straight, and now it won't turn on again.

I'm trying to get an HVAC pro to come and take a look, but they're booked until next week. Is there anything else I can check in the mean time?

EDIT:
I'd like to open up the access control panel to check for fuse locations, but I cannot figure out how to do so. Here's a picture of what I assume to be the panel door. I've tried prying it open from all 4 sides with a flathead driver. It also doesn't slide in any direction. Any suggestion?

Additionally, I've verified that there is electricity in the unit. There is voltage in that the exterior white wire going from the box to the thermostat (see picture) and there's also voltage going through the disconnect box and into the outside fan unit...

UPDATE2:

I was able to take the control panel door off, and found that it's getting no electricity. As you can see in pic1, the exterior white wire is live and it goes in the little box with the black push switch to the left of the picture. However, in pic2 the three internal wires (green, white, and black) going out of the box are not live.

Pic1 - electricity going into the little box

Pic2 - no electricity going out of the little box

Additionally, the red status light that used to be on all the time (which I didn't recall till now) is now off.

Pic3: red status light no longer on.

So what is this little box and could it be the cause?


texts: Which terminal should I connect it to for a “C” wire on an american standard AM4A0A30

texts:
I'm trying to connect a 3rd gen Nest thermostat. I have a 2 zoned heat and 1 zone AC. The zone with this thermostat has a boiler wired Rw, W1 and HVAC wired Rc, G, Y1. It's summer so I'm only using the AC currently, but the thermostat seems to be drawing power from my 2 zone relay attached to my boiler even when the heat isn't on. It keeps triggering it on and off constantly. I called NEST support and they said I need a C wire that needs to come from the HVAC not the boiler.

I'm looking at the wiring for the HVAC and I'm not sure terminal to attach the common wire to.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


texts:
Product specification for my new Trane XV-80 furnace mentions something about its filter - its recommended type is "High Velocity".

What is that? Is it related to MERV or MPR? If yes, what values of MERV/MPR make a filter "High Velocity" one?


texts:
The studio I'm renting happens to be one of the only routes to the midtown tunnel in Manhattan, and I have been driven beyond my sanity with the truck noises that plagues the studio 24/7. After doing some reading in a related thread (https://www.gearslutz.com/board/stud...f-windows.html), I decided to build my own window plugs to dampen the incoming noise. Below is the rough plan:

-------------- 1/8" Plywood
~~~~~~~~ Green Glue
-------------- 1/8" Plywood
======== 2" Fiberglass
-------------- 1/8" Plywood

There's a small (32" x 55-1/4") window and a large (48" x 55-1/4") window in this studio, and the estimated total weights of their corresponding plugs are 14 lbs and 21 lbs, respectively.

Questions:

Do you guys think this can effectively dampen the truck noise in the bass range/honking noises in high frequencies?
Should I switch the 1/8" Plywood boards with 1/4" ones instead? I'm a bit hesitant on how heavy I want these plugs to be but obviously soundproofing quality is the most important.
(Noob question) How do I secure the Fiberglass (pink insulation material sold at Home Depot) to the Plywood boards? Will they require frames?

Any other related inputs or suggestions are also highly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Regards,
Simon


texts: Can I straighten a twisted wooden pergola post?

texts: My 4x6 middle post on my pergola has twisted at the top over the years.  It is sturdy and placed in the ground in concrete.  Is there a way to straighten the twisted post?


texts: How can I repair a Whirpool washing machine that spins but doesn't agitate?

texts:
I have a Whirlpool NAV2330AWW washing machine that won't agitate. During agitation cycle the washer is extremely noisy. The first thing I fixed was a broken idler pulley (the plastic portion had broken away from the metal inner bushing). The motor runs during the agitate portion, but I don't see any movement on the upper portion of the transmission.

Could somebody help me diagnose what may be wrong? If there is some small component inside the transmission that needs to be replaced, I'm all for it. If I need a whole transmission, I doubt that it is economical to repair.

Parts Diagram

All of the belt pulleys move. The shaft above the transmission going to the agitator doesn't move though. It all works on a spin cycle though.


texts: How can I protect this exterior outlet from water and prevent smoke leakage to the interior?

texts:
I have an exterior outlet in a carport that I want to protect from water and smoke.

Water: Rain cannot reach this outlet. I am only concerned about accidental water sprays from either the hose nozzle or from a bad tap/hose connection spraying water backwards.

This is my first idea:

Smoke: This is in a carport so exhaust fumes are present. People also smoke in this area. Behind this wall is the basement and sometimes a strong smoke smell is present. I'm guessing the gaps around the outlet are contributing to this.

What would you recommend to address these two issues?