texts: How noticeable should the seam be on a quartz counter install?

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This is my first question on the DIY stack so be gentle with me!
Background
We just had new quartz counters installed in our kitchen renovation. We have done everything else our selves, but we figured we would use professionals for the counter top since we wanted to make sure it looked perfect. It is a medium sized L shaped counter area and due to the size of the counter the installer informed us that it would require two seams and gave us a few options for where they could locate the seams. We were a bit concerned about this but he assured us that you would not notice the seams unless you really looked for them.
Fast forward a few weeks to the installation date. The counters looked FANTASTIC as they were being installed. Unfortunately, once the installers finished and were ready for us to sign the satisfaction form we took a look at the seams and they are very noticeable. We refused to sign the satisfaction form at this point in time because we wanted to investigate it further.
Question
How noticeable should the seams be for a quartz counter installation? Obviously this depends on the texture and color of the counter, but is it something that should ever be painfully obvious? Do the pictures below illustrate what can be expected for this type of counter?

Update 1
Based on the feedback I received from this site, as well as a few other companies I contacted for consultation, I have determined that this is NOT the normal for this type of counter installation. The general consensus is:

There is a pretty serious shade difference on either side of the seam which is not acceptable.
There should only be a single seam for this type of installation.
Most likely the company was trying to cut costs by using a single slab of the material.

I have contacted the company that provided the counter tops and they are sending someone out to take a look at the counters and see if there is anything they can do. I will update this post again once we get to a final solution.
Update 2
The company has been great to work with to resolve this issue. Unfortunately, because the counter was already cut they couldn't do anything about the double seams, which is annoying. However, they did have their crew out to my house twice to get the seams as minimal as possible (both look great now) and to fix a few chips in the counter. I would leave the following advice for anyone else having a counter install:

Be sure to ask that the the company installing your counter use as few seams as possible. This is likely going to increase the material cost for the counter but is well worth it in the long run.
Ask for opinions from the installer on your counter selection. The color we went with in this case is very difficult to install because the seams are very visible and it is difficult to mix the filler to match. This is the consensus we received from multiple installers. If we would have known this, we would have definitely gone with something that is easier to install.
Think twice before going with Quartz. We went with the top of the line Quartz so it was very comparable from a cost standpoint to granite. We were sold on the fact that it is zero maintenance and is supposedly as durable as granite. Unfortunately, this is not the case. It is very difficult to clean well and it chips extremely easily. We have seen small chips from dropping a very light weight ceramic plate on the counter from ~1 foot. The plate didn't even chip or break!


texts: How high off the ground can you place LED lighting?

texts: Our ceiling is about 15 feet tall. We'd like to place LED lights on it to light our seating area and room. We're wondering if the lights are too far if the light may be too diffuse by the time it reaches ground level. Is there a formula, chart, or rule of thumb for what kind of lights you can put at different heights?


texts: What does it mean if there are 2 different figures for a dimension on a blueprint?

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I am trying to read a technical 2D CAD drawing of a machine screw.

This is the fastener in question. This is a link to a PDF of this fastener's blueprint.

Here is an image of the PDF:

I added the blue arrows to highlight instances of confusion.

What does it mean if there are two figures provided for the same dimension?

I thought that maybe these two figures referred to a "tolerance" of possible values (that is, a "minimum" and a "maximum"), but I'm not confident in this theory because, in all four instances, the greater number is on top (which seems counterintuitive to how a range is typically expressed).

I tried looking up "ASME B18.6.3" to see if it contained any hints, but it costs $107 to view this document.

Also, if no units are provided on a blueprint like this, how do I know if the figures are measured in inches or millimeters?

Fastenal is a U.S.-based company, so I expected that they use the imperial system, but the figures contain odd numbers, so, on the other hand, they might be using the metric system.


texts:
I have a 3-wire 120/240 V circuit running to my garage to an l14-30 outlet for an arc welder. Occasionally I want to run that arc welder in my basement. My thought is to cut the existing circuit in the basement and install a similar l14-30 outlet. And then put a junction box  on the remaining wire that goes to the garage with a flexible wire l14-30 plug.

Basically the wire to the garage then looks like an extension cord. Normally that "extension cord" is plugged into the new outlet and the garage is constantly energized. When I want to use the welder in the basement I unplug the "extension cord" and plug in the welder.

There may be other ways to do this, but I have some other uses for that "extension cord" and I don't want to complicate this note with those details.

Is this configuration allowed by code?

Thanks,
Frank


texts: How do I stop weeds in desert landscaping?

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The primary culprit is actually grass.  Grass killer isn't an option because there are fruit trees involved.

My understanding is that a couple of inches of rock will stop them.  My wife disagrees.  Who is right?  Or does it need to be thicker?

(We currently have about 1" of rock the builder put down and it's clearly not enough.)


texts: Why can't I drill deep enough into my wall for wall anchors?

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I am living in a condo and have a problem to put anchor in the wall (drywall? I don't know th exact type of the wall). when I drill it doesn't go deep enough to put anchor completely in, so it can't stand heavy items. How can I figure out this problem.
I have heavy items to hang.


texts: How should I wire a GFCI outlet and a switch to isolate the switch but provide GFCI protection further in the series?

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I am replacing the outlets for my garbage disposal/dishwasher circuit in my kitchen. Currently on that breaker there is one non-GFCI outlet with a pigtailed switch controlling the garbage disposal and one non-switched GFCI outlet controlling the dishwasher. The garbage disposal outlet is currently not in series with the dishwasher outlet, but is "upstream" of it in relation to current coming from the breaker box.

I want to install GFCI protection for both of these outlets. I would also like to replace the current GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher with a normal outlet, so that if it trips, I won't have to remove the dishwasher to reset the outlet. Ideally, I would like to install a GFCI outlet for the current garbage disposal outlet, and have it protect both the garbage disposal and dishwasher outlets. However, there is a catch with this plan. I still need the garbage disposal outlet to be switch-activated, but I do not want that switch to also activate the dishwasher outlet.

In short, how can I wire my new outlets to achieve these goals:

GFCI protection for both outlets.
No GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher (for easy resetting without dishwasher removal).
The switch only toggling the garbage disposal outlet and not the dishwasher outlet.

I've thought about this for several days, and it may be impossible in my current wiring situation. If it is, what other solutions would achieve the same effect as listed above? Should I investigate adding a GFCI breaker for that circuit? Am I going to need to run some more wire through the walls?

Edit: Here is a diagram of the current wiring situation.


texts: How can I stop a porch crack from causing internal cracking?

texts: My front porch slab has cracked and part is at least an inch lower. It is supporting the roof. Now there is a crack going up the inside of my drywall at the same place. Suggestions on how to solve this so I make sure it is done right.


texts: Installed Lutron Caseta, one bulb works, but two do not

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I've been installing Lutron Caseta dimmers all throughout my house. Everything has been fine except my back porch where I have two lights.

If I only put a bulb in one light, it works fine, dims, etc.

If I put bulbs in both lights, they either flash on and off, or pop and stop working.

Any idea what's going on?

I'm using dimmable LED bulbs for the back porch where I'm having problems. The rest of what I've changed over is built in LED cans.


texts: How to determine gas leak on a water heater?

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My gas water heater is certainly leaking gas. I can smell it.

Using the image below, it seems like it might be coming from the red circle where the dial connects to the thermostat or the blue circle where the manifold tube connects to the thermostat. I don't smell anything around the green circle, the pilot tube.

Is it even possible to leak where the red circle is? If not then I assume it is the blue circle, the manifold tube. Is there a trick to tightening the manifold tube, like there is for water pipes? I have it as tight as I can get it right now. If it is leaking from the red circle area do I have to replace the whole thermostat?


texts: What are my kitchen sink's drain pipes made of, and how should I seal connections?

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I'm going to attempt to replace my sink drain pipes (highlighted in red below) in addition to replacing my sink basket.

I have a question about the pipes: can someone confirm the material of these pipes? I would like to buy replacement pipes of the same material.

Also, for the connections between each elbow, is teflon tape needed? Or can I just tighten the connections with the slip nut?

Thank you!


texts: Ground screw inverted - Converting 3 prong dryer to 4 prong

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I’m trying to change the cord on a second-hand dryer that came with a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong to match the outlet I have.
I have a decent sense of what I need to do to match up the hot-neutral-hot wires but my issue is what to do with the ground wire.
For whatever reason the current 3 prong configuration had the green ground screw already in place but with the head on the interior of the dryer (see image). So I cannot simply unscrew and then screw on to attach the ground wire as-is.
Is it imperative that the ground wire on the 4 prong cord be fastened through that screw or is there some easy way around this? I also am unsure if I can even remove the entire back panel because there are a few other inverted screws with heads on the interior of the machine.


texts: How to determine source of this roof leak?

texts: As Irma pounds our house I was in the attic and noticed we have a roof leak but I can't figure exactly where it is coming from. The obvious place is where that exhaust vent is penetrating, but it is complete dry at that point. Tips on correcting this?


texts: how do I replace a single union pressure reducing valve?

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I see a 115 PSI water pressure at my home. Looks like my PRV is hosed. I am a complete newbie in plumbing, please take a look at the pictures and help me understand what I need to replace the PRV.

So I believe its a single union PRV. I bought a Zurn nr3xl to replace it. Upper joint seems to be soldered?? Bottom joint can probably be removed turning the union ring. Am I correct? Anything else that I need to know? Please also share what tools I need.


texts: Hooked up new programmable timer, but concerned about red wire

texts: Ok so I hooked up the new switch its a Defiant Model # 49814 purchased from Home Depot and I have another question, the red wire when tested with the NCVT is registering high voltage along with the black wire connected to the other black wire is that correct? Did I do it right? The capped red wire just concerns me, is it supposed to have power? If so should it be capped or hooked up to another wire?


texts: my ceiling fan fell and i wanna know how to wire the leftover wires sticking out of the ceiling?

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at the moment half the room has no power and the fan did have a switch just in case that helps.
as you can see in the pic ive already attempted to wire it and i manged to get power back to part of the room but the side of the room with the switch still has no power


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I recently noticed that there was water damage at the top corner of an exterior facing wall in one of my bedrooms. Previously, I had thought it was electrical wiring in the wall due to the snake-like shape of the damage. This was over a year ago. However, when I looked at this corner again recently, the drywall has split open in some parts and I strongly believe it's water damage.

I'm going to try to get some qualified repair person to come in and assess the damage. I was wondering if this community has any advice for a first-time homeowner like myself on how to handle this issue. Should I contact my insurance? What kind of serious issues should I be on the look out for? How should I handle this issue if the source of the water leak is from the apartment above mine?


texts: Why doesn't my pressure tank fill as expected?

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I have a shallow well (1 hp pump) that feeds into a tank, and then travels another 200 feet to the house. If I turn on the pump, the tank does not fill up with water. If I let the air out of the tank it will fill properly. The gauge on the tank holds steady at 28 lbs of pressure.

I have a new pressure switch [30-50], and the new check valve never loses pressure. The prime gauges both read about 6 lbs with pump running.

Can anyone tell me if the problem is the tank, or is there something else I should pay attention to?


texts: What kind of threshold can I use on concrete?

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I just laid some vinyl planking throughout most of my house and there are a few places where I don't know what kind of threshold to use.

Here I have a rock floor meeting the vinyl planking underneath a pocket door. All of the thresholds I saw need to be screwed into place and have a higher profile than I would like. While I could trim the door, I also have a special needs son that drags his feet and could trip on much of a profile.
Is there a threshold that could keep the end of the flooring from being kicked and torn up without being screwed down or creating  a big profile?


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I was trying to put in the plug mechanism for the bathroom sink.  I actually turned the entire plumbing underneath the sink and I think I broke the seal between the drain hole and the sink.

Now there is a slow leak...just drops.  You can see it in the picture.

What is the best way to stop the leak?  (I think we can fix the drain hole and sink connection/interface)


texts:
I have a very uneven floor in my bedroom, and a metal bed frame (non-leveling feet), soon to be a wooden bed frame. I'd like to level my bed. What are some good ways to do this?

One approach is to just get some shims and stack them up. If this is my best bet, then what are recommended materials to use?

I'm surprised to not find more discussion about this problem on the web -- it's really unhealthy to sleep on an unlevel bed, and many floor in old houses are very unlevel.


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Any idea what the pictured connector might be and how it might be replaced/connected again?
It is part of a steam generator, for a steam shower, providing power to the heating element, I believe. It has an identical one on a black wire that was worn through completely. Just hoping it is a common part.

Here are some more pics to show the gory details.

You can see the where they disconnected here.

And if you look past the red wires you can see where the other side is still nice and tidy. (How these should look)


texts: which is better placement of flex duct in this case?

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In the below picture. I have two options to run 1st flex duct. I am running 5 inch flex duct.

Option 1 : Between joists where gas pipe is running, Here I would be able to use End Boot only.  does the end Boot server its own purpose here ?

Option 2 :  Between joists where a IC rated recessed can is installed. In both the options I have to run from one side. Here I can use standard 90" boot. The only issue here, it will be too close to 2nd flex.

I can't place 1st flex duct further far away and close to outside wall due to lack accessibility and/or space here too. if option 2 is better placement for 2nd flex, then I can make it little far away, but the boot will end up in the middle of the ceiling/space.


texts: After some initial sanding of a taped joint, the tape/paper is showing. It's sticking out and frayed, and still needs some sanding. What are my options for dealing with this? should I apply more mud and feather it out further or try to remove it and do it again?


texts: What are some effective methods to fix a worn out screw holes of a door hinge?

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I have a door that was slightly tilted and didnt close properly. I noticed the hinge was a tad loose, and what was holding it was a short 0.5" screw. I replaced it the screws with a new 1" screw and the door was ok for a couple weeks. But now its tilting sideways again, and the screws are loose again.
I assume that the screw holes are worn out and thus do not hold the screws well, and gave up.
The door, and the door frame, is a regular standard US wooden door. The hinges are common as well. Not familiar with exact model, type, or naming convention. In the images you can see the hinge tilting sideways, as well as it pushing the screws out from the screwholes.
I was thinking about using screw anchors. But what other methods are there to fix a loose screw hole?
Attached Images

Thank you


texts:
Canada, gas-fired high-efficiency water heater installed 2013 i.e. 4 years ago (according to the tag), simple system (no expansion tank, no pressure regulation), city water.

I just noticed a small puddle of water under the relief valve discharge tube. The house has been vacant since I took possession in October (now about 5 months). The main water supply has been on until a couple of weeks ago when the kitchen was renovated and the supply has been turned on and off, and some lines partly drained a number of times for plumbing work.

Is this a sign of a developing leak in the relief valve? Is it a temporary side-effect of the system being turned off, at least partly drained, turned back on, etc.? The tank is a rental. Do I need to get the rental company in to service it, or is it normal for the relief valve to respond in this way to the pressure changes brought about due to the plumbing work?


texts: How do I install a fire extinguisher on the side of a cabinet?

texts: I want to hang my fire extinguisher on the cabinet next to my sink. Below are pictures of the fire extinguisher bracket and the location where I want to put it. Should I use a bolt with a nut - or some sort of screw?


texts: The main water valve won't open fully after I closed it. How do I shut off the water to replace it?

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Basically the title says it all.

I turned the water for the house off to replace some leaking washing machine shutoff valves, and install stop-cock valves for a laundry sink. When I tried to turn the water back on, it came on a little bit, but now the valve-handle just spins without affecting the flow.

The main shut-off valve for the house is an old gate-valve, which I gather from reading here fail on a fairly regular basis (I'm going to stick a ball-valve in as a replacement).

I can replace the valve easily enough, but how do I go about turning off the water, since I need to replace the valve that I would normally use to shutoff the water to replace a valve.

Is there normally a second cutoff valve in with the water meter, or am I stuck having to call the water utility company?

This is at my parents house, which is ~1 hour drive away. I would just go digging around in the water-meter enclosure otherwise.

FWIW, this is in California, USA


texts: How can I repair drywall after removing tile?

texts: We installed ceramic tiles for our kitchen backsplash and after 1yr, I am unhappy with it. How would I repair the drywall after removing the tiles? I do not want to re-tile over the backsplash (I want a clean white wall again).


texts: Optimizing whole house coaxial distribution

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I'm interested in optimizing my current coaxial splitter setup that was primarily done by Comcast on one of their service calls.

During the first stage the coaxial cable from the cable provider is split (1000mhz, -3.5db on both outputs) (black splitter on left of image). 1/2 goes to an return amplifier (white box center of image) and then an 8 port splitter (far right of image; unknown specs) which provides all the TV's in the house with a signal, and the other 1/2 goes directly to a cable modem.

I am curious as to how I can possibly optimize this setup for better all around performance. The signal on the TV's is fine and not grainy, but I sometimes experience Internet outages for a minute or so in the afternoon.

Would it be beneficial for me to replace the splitter in the first stage? Or to boost the signal for the modem with a separate amplifier? Do you see any issues in my current setup?


texts: Tonight half my apartment blacked out, the ceiling lights and the plugs on the bedroom and bathroom side of the apartment all were not working. I opened the circuit breaker box and flipped the switch that corresponded to the 5A and 25A (in the description it said "lights") switches. They originally were on "On" and I turned them both "Off", which resulted in my entire apartment becoming completely dark. I turned them back to "On" and the lights came back on, also the previously blacked out lights in the bedroom and bathroom and plugs are all working. My question is how did this happen and should I be concerned? My main concern is that, although the switches I flipped Off and back to On controlled the lights of the whole apartment, why did only part of my apartment go dark? Also, why were the switches set at "On" when I first checked? Sorry if this is confusing, please let me know!


texts: Horizontal Fence on a slope; what's the best design?

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I am replacing my neighbors low, 4' tall fence on the side of my yard with a new wooden fence.

I like horizontal fences.

I am going to put the horizontal fence boards between the posts. The span of this fence is 24'.  The ground drops away 4' between the bottom of the front fence post and the bottom of the rear fence post.

In the rear, this fence joins a 7' tall gate and fence with 8' tall posts.  When joined these fences will make an L shape.  See the attached diagram.

I want to use a pleasing design for this fence.  I want to make a friendly space and I am unsure which design looks good and importantly won't create a weird or imposing perspective in this smallish sloped and angled space.

The space between the driveway and fence will have landscaping.

Building this is not that difficult, so this may be a bad question.  The slope with the taller rear fence makes me wonder what works aesthetically here.  I am considering three fence design options.

My question is what looks best when you build a horizontal fence on a slope?  Once you have done this five or ten times, what do you learn?  What looks right in a space like this?

All advice will be appreciated.

This an inexpensive house from the 80's.  They are now adding million dollar homes to the area.  Ours is a little too expensive to tear-down, so we have spiffed it up considerably, just adding new siding.  There is more to go.

A new front entry and over garage lights are high on the list.

EDIT: Well, the city won't let me build a fence within 20 feet of the street, at the front of my house.  I sounds like, if they approve the plans they would allow me to build a 3'6" fence.  Neither of these enable me to cover the neighbor's chain-link fence.

EDIT: I did build a gate and small fence.  I will use cedar to extending the fence into the backyard.  The design will probably be a combination of the bottom sloping design in Option 1, and the stair-step top in Option 3.

EDIT: Here's what I built, the top and landscaping are not finished.

Here is a photo of the front, not exactly showing the area.  The old fence and house color is to the left in these photos (my finger too :-), you can see a couple boards and get an idea of where this will go.


texts:
I'm planning on moving our hot water heater from its current location in our mudroom down to the basement, to live in what will become sort of a mechanical closet in the to-be-finished basement.  My plan is to attempt to remove the existing PEX plumbing going to the water heater as close as possible to the nearest branch, but if that turns out to be difficult I'd like to cap off the old PEX just inside the wall.

If I end up doing this, it will leave two 10-foot runs of 3/4" PEX going vertically up that wall to a dead end.  These segments will see no real flow, and I expect they will stay at least partially full of stagnant water.  Is this a bad idea?


texts: Single pole/single throw switch turns one light on and one light off

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I have a single pole, single throw switch which controls a ceiling light, no pull chain (light A) and (unnecessarily) a wall light, with pull chain (light B). When the switch is in the OFF position, light A is off and light B can be turned on with its pull chain. When the switch is in the ON position, light A is on and light B is off, regardless of the state of its pull chain.
Is this most likely to be caused by a short? Or is there a proper wiring configuration that could result in this behavior? I am alone and can’t isolate the circuit to pull out the switch, but that will be my next step (I can see a few wire nuts are in its box so it is possible there is misconfiguration there)


texts: Why are the contractors leaving lambs wool fibers in my floor finish?

texts: Contractors continue to leave wool fibers in the finish. They rebuff the floor and add another poly finish but still leave wool fibers. What are they doing wrong? They seem to think this is ok and normal.


texts:
It looks a bit like a female spade connector, but it has a couple of "tails" at the back of the curled part that lock it into the ceramic block, and a ramp at the front that guides the burner's contacts into place.

The metal of the connector on the right has gotten charred and has disintegrated where the burner contacts it.
Can I just find a replacement connector, or do I need to get an entire receptacle replacement kit?


texts: How to tell when a plumbing fitting is tightened correctly?

texts:
I replaced the supply valve on my bathroom sink with this ¼-turn angle valve.

Both valves (hot and cold) are leaking about 1 drop every few seconds at the valve's input.  I got them hand tight, then added about 2 full turns with a wrench.  Should I tighten them more, or are they leaking because of over-tightening?

Before installing the valve, I shined the copper pipe with scotch brite, and I put 3 wraps of PTFE tape on the male threads.  I am reusing the nut and ferrule that was there.


texts: Electric box for kitchen island cabinets

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What kind of electrical box can be used in a kitchen island cabinet for a single duplex receptacle, where there is no structural members to attach an electrical box to? Here is a picture of the old box that was there, but I cannot find this kind of box anywhere. The box was inserted from the outside of the cabinet into a very precise sized hole, and the metal bracket attached via a screw in the center put pressure against the inside of the cabinet to keep the box in place.

The cabinet now has an outer panel attached to it (seen below from overhead with the drawer pulled out of the way, white is the panel, brown is the cabinet wall) and so the cabinet wall is thicker, about 1 3/8":

What sort of electrical box can I use to replace the old box given the thickness and the lack of structural support? It needs to be able to clamp FMC. Single 12-2 cable.


texts: Is it safe to use a string of lights with one shattered

texts: I have a string of bulb lights but today I accidentally shattered one of the bulbs on the string. Is it still safe to plug it into a plug if all the other bulbs are fine? (meaning they're not shattered)


texts: My dishwasher is 10 years old.  It is only used intermittently, but I do try to run it at least once a week. There is an intermittent sewer-like odor, that seems to come and go. It was really bad this time, totally smelling up the house. I can run the washer with baking soda, bleach or white vinegar, and the smell will go away for about 8 hours, then it's back.  It will then go away, not to return for several months.  The drain hose is looped to the top of the cabinet, there is no disposal. There is a open-ended PVC pipe about 18 inches high in between the trap and where the pipe exits the house.  Does that serve as the air gap I have read about on these pages?  I have taken off the sprayer arm and the filter underneath that and there was no standing water, no debris, nothing I could find to account for the smell.  The door also appears to be clean. Anywhere else I should look for food debris? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.


texts:
I have steps about 4ft high built of interlocking pavers leading up to my front door.    The sill on my front door is a nice piece of 2" oak.    When I had the steps rebuilt about 4 years ago, I didn't notice that the contractor had raised the steps about 1".   This means that the interlocking brick now butts against the wooden sill (instead of underneath the sill), and polymeric sand has bonded between the wooden sill and the brick.
The paint on the sill is beginning to peel, so it needs to be repainted.   But what do I do where the polymeric sand is bonded to the sill?    Should I dig out the sand, repaint the sill and replace the sand?   I'd like to be sure the oak is sealed so that I don't have problems with the wood rotting.
I suppose another option would be to rebuild the steps to lower them back down 1" so that the sill will be clear of the brick.   This seems like an expensive solution!


texts: How can I bend wire that is too thick to manage easily?

texts:
Such a silly question but please help me! The wires leading to my pool pump are probably 10 or 12 gauge.  When i bend them in a loop i cant get them around the screw because there is no give to the wire.  Can i remove the screw, place the loop over the hole and re-screw?
What if the screw doesnt come out completely?

I want a secure connection and really want to loop around the screw.

How do the pros get this done?


texts: Is using the light switch screw OK to ground a wire?

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My house was built in 1950 and several light switches do not have ground wires. I believe there is no ground wire since I cannot find a wire that's bare - they are all coated.

I want to install a Lutron Motion Sensor, but it requires to connect to a ground wire. This is for a hallway light that's also controlled by another switch at the opposite end. When I installed it without connecting the wires that are expected to be connected to ground, nothing happened. Meaning, the switch did not work. I assume it was because the documentation was correct, that ground needs to be connected.

The person at the hardware store said to only connect the ground wires to the screws that afix the light switch. Is this OK? Is this safe?


texts: Can this post support be used for a fence (especially for posts that support a gate) ( http://www.homedepot.ca/product/bolt-down-in-khaki-4-in-x-4-in/971849)


texts: Push button lock unlocks when knob turned

texts:
Recently my bedroom lock (a push button lock) has been acting funny.  It's hard to push the button in and the button and handle sort of need to be jiggled to push it in all the way.  Once it's in it fails to actually lock. Specifically, when locked, if i turn the outside handle upwards then the lock stays intact but if i turn it downwards then it will seem locked but the push button will pop out as the handle returns to its place.  so to unlock it from outside all i have to do is turn it downwards twice (first time seems locked but ends up unlocking it and then the second one opens the door).

my building has unique looking knobs and i'd rather fix it if possible instead of replacing it.  anyone have any idea what i might want to look at?  i did take the knob off and play around with it.  obviously it's hard to see inside of it though and i didn't get much insight.


texts: How to increase the size of an existing metal hole in kitchen sink

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I want to install a sink soap dispenser but the existing hole in my sink is too small.  From what I've found the universal diameter of the threaded piece that inserts into the hols is 1 inch.  My hols is closer to 3/4 inch.
So, how can I increase the size of an existing metal hole in kitchen sink?
My research so far has led me to using a piece of clamped 2x4 as a guide for a drill bit but I cannot clamp the wood to the sink.
Any ideas?


texts: Convert 220v dedicated oven connection to 110v receptacle?

texts:
I removed a 220V Oven residing on a dedicated circuit using 2 pole 40A breaker. The wire from the breaker to the outlet is 8/3 with red, black, white, and ground.

I would like to move my fridge to this new location. So my thought was to change the 220v outlet to 110v outlet.

Could I remove the circuit breaker and change it to a 20AMP 2 Pole breaker.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-2-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-BR220/100207223

Then wire the exist outlet to a 20A receptacle breaking the Line bridge (one terminal with red wire, the other terminal with black), and having the receptacle share the white neutral (split-wired receptacle)?

Another issue, I don't think I can install a GFCI receptacle in this configuration. If I want to make sure this circuit is GFCI, should I consider using a Ground Fault Circuit Breaker since this is for a fridge?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-2-Pole-Self-Test-Ground-Fault-Circuit-Breaker-GFTCB220CS/206677554


texts: Should I have all the aluminum wiring removed from my home or just the damaged portion?

texts:
My home has aluminum wiring, which was wired approximately 20 years ago. A single line of wiring  connecting bathroom geyser caught fire and got burnt. I am planning to rewire my house again.
Should I be getting my entire home rewired with copper wiring or only the part which got burnt? Apart from high cost of copper wiring what other advantage I would be getting?


texts:
I have 2x8 (7.25x1.5) what appear to be doug fur or southern pine floor joists on 16" centers in a finished basement. I want to tile a master bath on the main floor. Joists span exactly 11' 4" from the concrete foundation to a steel center beam. Is that span too much?

If I use this calculator: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl

I get 11.5 foot = not good for tile.
11 feet = good for tile.

House was built in 1962. My joists are in good condition, but subfloor is shot and will be replaced (had some leaky upstairs bathrooms.) However, the cross bridging is non-existent (should I add this?) And, in one joist someone cut a 1x3" notch out of the top for plumbing.

Can these joists / spans support ceramic tile? And, how large of a soaker tub will they support (soaker tub will be placed near outside wall/foundation).


texts: How do I prevent my screen door from opening too far?

texts:
Just bought a new house and I've noticed that when the front screen door opens too wide it knocks into a light fixture hung on the other side of the door. the fixture has started to loosen so obviously this has been a problem for a while. Obviously we could just be careful, but we have a toddler and have other friend with children.

What is the best way to keep the door from being opened too wide to prevent damage both to the door and to the fixture behind it?


texts: I have electricity in my bathroom and kitchen and even my porch light and security light outside is on, but there are no numbers on my meter box. What could b the cause of this? There are 2 outlets that work but nowhere else--not even in the kitchen where there is electricity.


texts: How can I finish the gap above my door with Stucco?

texts:
I have about a 12" gap between the top of my new entry door and the door opening because the house is 100 y.o. and back then they used bigger doors or simply higher transoms.  When I ordered the current door from HD, it was not possible to get a custom height or transom.

So I framed a 36x12 box above the door to fill the gap.  I plan to close it with a 1/2" plywood piece and then put some wire mesh over it and stucco.

Q1: Will this work?  I have never done stucco/mortar over wood or wire mesh.
Q2: If it does work, will the stucco protect the plywood substrate from moisture decay?


texts: Why don't you connect unused hot and neutral wires to "complete the circuit"?

texts:
I'm new to home wiring and had a question I'd like explained to me. I removed a vent hood over my oven and I thought I had to complete the circuit so I tied the hot and neutral wires that were powering the hood together with a wire nut, but all the lights on that breaker in the house didn't work after that. I then tried turning on the breaker with the hot and neutral wires NOT touching and all the lights worked!

This doesn't make sense to me; this might be a super simple question but I'm just trying to understand.

Why did the breaker work when those two wires weren't connected, but when I secured them with a wire nut then all of the lights also on that breaker didn't work?


texts: replace load bearing post with steel column

texts:
So I have a joist that stops short of a stairwell and doesn’t connect to the foundation and I’m going to move the supporting beam back 2 feet (it’s about an 8 ft run between the header and other supporting beams).  I’ve talked to a number of guys and they said the moving that 2 feet back won’t be dangerous.

So I’m installing an adjustable steel column to the 2x8 wooden joist and the fastening the post to the concrete.  1) can I use Tapcon Masonry Screws or do I need Tapcon Concrete screws?  2) what would be a sufficient length and diameter of screw 3)  Because this post is adjustable and I’m not pouring concrete over the top of it, do I need to do anything to “lock” it into place for code.

Here is a link to the column I’m purchasing:  https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444423416220-c-5725.htm?tid=3647805878147678020

Or would I be better off using a treated 4x4?  If that's the case, how can I fasten the 4x4 to the 2x8 joist?


texts: Are air purifiers and ionizers effective?

texts: Are air ionizers and other air purifiers effective at cleaning the air? Is there any evidence that such machines lead to improved health or wellbeing?


texts: I just had two outlets go. They were working fine and when I plugged the pressure washer in, both stopped working. My Klein voltage tester indicates red (hot). No breakers are flipped. Is this an outlet problem? Again, both were working fine and now read got but nothing plugged in is working.


texts: why doesn't my washing machine spin when it's full of water?

texts:
I bought a brand-new washing machine, a 3.4 cubic foot Whirlpool top-loader (model # WTW4800XQ), and it's not working properly. When I put in even a very small quantity of dirty clothes and set it on a wash cycle, it fills the tub up with water and then tries to start spinning it, but the motor makes a very labored sound and only succeeds in turning the tub an inch or two. Then it tries again, ad nauseam. It sounds very much like the motor is not powerful enough to turn it, or the transmission is slipping, or something like that… the point is that it doesn't spin properly when it's full of water.

If I set the machine on a heavy cycle, the tub fills up nearly to the top with water, which seems very high. If I put it on the lightest cycle with almost nothing in it, it still fills up about halfway with water, and the noise of the motor/transmission is different for the light cycle, as though it's almost able to turn it but still can't quite manage. Could it be filling the machine up with way too much water? Maybe some water level sensor or something is broken? The machine has been leveled.

The motor is perfectly capable of turning the tub in the "drain and spin" cycle, even when the tub is full of wet laundry. It's like it can only do it when there's no water in there.

One final thing to mention is that even after a "drain and spin" cycle, when I turn the tub by hand, I can hear some water sloshing around in the bottom of the machine. Even when I make it easy on the pump and put the drain pipe in a bucket on the floor, it still doesn't seem to be able to pump out all the water.

Any idea what could be wrong with this thing? Again, it's brand-new. I guess it could be a lemon, but that just seems unlikely.

Pardon the inevitable indicators of n00bness; this is first washing machine I've ever owned.


texts: Connecting 3700 Watt induction hob - special wiring?

texts:
I got this VÄLBILDAD 2 plate induction hob at Ikea in Germany.
I received it with electric cable connected to the hob but without a plug.
I wouldn't try to connect it myself if I thought this induction requires any special wiring,
but from what I read it seems to only require a normal 230V 16A socket which I have in my kitchen.
The hob is 3700 Watt.
The manual says:

This appliance has a type "Y" attachment with a cable type H05V2V2-F. MONO-PHASE connection: min. section of the conductors: 3x1,5mm2

I'm attaching some photos of the wires and the connection diagram.
Can someone tell me if I can just buy a 230V 16A electric plug like this for example and connect the hob to a 16A socket, or should I call an electrician?
Thank you very much.
I'm in Germany.


texts: Pool cover efficiency versus intactness of cover

texts:
We have a pool with an odd shape that makes it difficult to use a pool cover.  Specifically, the sides of the pool change elevation in several places which make it impossible to use a roller to easily retract the pool cover when not in use.  There is usually only one person around when the cover needs to be retracted, and it usually takes about half an hour and is very tiring.

If the pool cover was cut into smaller pieces it would make an easier job of it, as each piece could be rolled up separately; the weight of each piece would be managable, and the need to run back and forth across a 30 foot length to try to keep both ends rolling up evenly would be eliminated.

However, my concern is how much of the benefit of a pool cover would be lost.  The actual gaps caused by having multiple pieces would potentially allow some heat to escape, but of more concern is the fact that water would more easily get on top of the individual pieces where it could evaporate and carry off heat.  Reducing water usage is one motivation for using the cover in the summer; there is a lot of shade during the day so overheating the pool isn't a big concern, but I assume that since most of the heat loss is through evaporation the two goals mess well.

The cover is the silver/gray plastic type with bubbles that sit on the bottom when it floats in the pool, so it is also likely there would be a strip along the cut where the bubbles are destroyed.  Obviously once I cut I can't undo the process so I don't want to do so until I have considered all the ramifications.

Is this something that I should do?  If so, how much efficiency can I expect to lose? (For instance, if the cover was heating the pool by 15 degrees, how much can I expect when the cover in pieces?)  Is there a particular pattern of pieces that would be more efficient?  For instance, perhaps cutting stripes across the width of the pool would prevent the cover from overlapping itself and exposing gaps when the pump is on.


texts:
I have a few questions I'd like to lump into this one, so please bear with me.
I am planning to completely rewire my main level, moving my laundry room up from the basement in the process.  I decided that I want to put a sub panel in the laundry room that serves as the home run for the entire main floor.  In looking for what gauge feeder wire I need, I ran across a confusing entry in the table that I am not sure what to do with.

What does "Ampacity Dwelling" mean?

https://www.nassauelectrical.com/products/3-0-3-0-3-0-1-0-copper-ser-service-entrance-cable
Allowable Ampacity 60C (Amps):  165
Allowable Ampacity 75C (Amps):  200
Allowable Ampacity 90C (Amps):  225
Allowable Ampacity Dwelling (Amps):     225

I am assuming that a 150A sub panel refers to the 240V, so would that mean it could technically handle 300A worth of breakers in 120V circuits?

Would a 3/0-3/0-3/0-1/0 SER copper cable be the right thing to run from my main panel to supply the sub panel for the main level?  I do not mind paying extra to oversize my cable for larger derating and less wasted power from wire resistance. (I also cannot have aluminum wires in my house for unfathomable religious reasons.)

This is all part of a bigger renovation of this old house from 1978.  I'm planning to upgrade the house from 150A service to maybe 300A at the meter so I can plan for the future where I need to charge vehicles.  I also just got into welding as a hobby, so my 120V Harbor Freight welding setup may eventually grow into something more serious in my workshop (woodworking, 3D printing, electronics, etc.).  When I upgrade my main service, I plan to have it wired to support a whole house generator, and the main panel will only supply power to the garage, HVAC, and fully-finished basement level (two bedrooms, home theater, etc.) in addition to the sub panel upstairs, of course.  My house was built on a hill, so the garage comes in at the basement level, and the main level with the master suite, living room, kitchen, guest bedroom/office is above.
I want to do this once, and I want to do it right.  I'm planning to have a dedicated 20A circuit for each bedroom in addition to a dedicated 15A circuit for each bedroom because you never know if you might decide to throw crypto mining rigs in every room one day.  :)


texts: Reparing rock lath plaster around thermostat wires in wall...need troubleshooting advice!

texts: I have been trying to find advice on how to do something similar to patch a rock lath plaster wall around my thermostat wires. It doesn't look like the original screws were screwed into anything substantial.The area where  I'm trying to patch around the hole in the wall to provide a solid surface to rehang the thermostat screws, but after three coats, the patching is still flimsy and won't hold a screw much less the entire thermostat. The guy at the hardware store suggested a fiberglass patch which I used but now I'm thinking I should have used aluminum? HELP?! See photos to make more sense of the problem.


texts:
(Sorry if this is the wrong site for this question.)

I just bought a house which has a Brinks home security system. The service is not active.

I believe the main system is an Ademco Vista 20p, or something similar. I want to get it open to take a look, but the ends of two screws are protruding out from holes in one side, making it impossible to pull off the front panel. There's a small amount of give when I push on them with a screwdriver, but not enough.

How can I get this open?


texts: Rating for the outlet does not match the breaker.

texts: I have an outlet for an air conditioner that is rated at 20a 250v. The breaker has 2, 20amp breakers. Should I be concerned?  Should i replace this outlet?


texts: Why do I have low hot water pressure in my kitchen?

texts: I have very low hot water pressure in the kitchen only.  I have disconnected the line and have great pressure from the valve.  It is a two handled faucet and the cold water pressure is very good.  There are no kinks in the line from the valve to the faucet.  No doubt there is some build up but where to look.  The aerator is clean also.


texts: Is a reduced neutral conductor acceptable on a cord for use with a generator?

texts:
I purchased a 12,500 watt portable generator, a 50 amp inlet box and the corresponding 50 amp plug to power a friend's residence.  I also purchased a 10’ long 50 amp range cord to connect the generator to the house via the inlet box.  The cord was labeled for 50 amp service with #6/4 wiring.  When I received the cord it came as a 50 amp service with #6/2 & #8/2 wiring.

My question is:
Is it acceptable to use this cord, with the reduced size neutral wire, to connect the generator to the inlet box?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you


texts: Sealing a water pipe leak with hardening compound without disassembly

texts:
I would like to seal a threaded fitting without disassembly.

In the past, I have used some kind of hardening substance that could be used to stop leaks on water pipes.  This is, of course, not "pipe dope" or Teflon tape that might be used when assembling the fittings in the first place.

For background on the problem, I sweated the copper fittings first, then put three wraps of Teflon tape on the 3/4 MNPT and assembled as tight as I could get it with 9" wrenches.  Then I sweated the valve into place, protecting the threaded fitting and valve with a damp cloth. I didn't have enough room for unions since the valve is operated on the other side of a wall.  Anyway, when pressurized, I have a leak, which is common with threaded fittings, based on other questions on this board.

Because it would require a lot of work, and would be messy to dissemble this, I was hoping for a quick (and maybe only temporary) fix that did not involve cutting the valve out and disassembling it.  Instead try to find some kind of hardening putty.  But I don't know what this kind of putty is called, and if it would work on this arrangement (copper and stainless 304 threaded fittings).

UPDATE:
I used JB WaterWeld™ Epoxy Putty.  It didn't work.  I first cleaned the area with a wire brush and a soap and water solution.  Spend a considerable time with the wire brush and soap solution.  I then rinsed the area completely.  Then I dried the parts completely, and for good measure, heated the whole assembly with the torch so it was just warm to the touch (evaporating any remaining water).  So I started with clean and dry parts, then I mixed the putty as directed and forced it into the threads and beyond.  I waited two hours (says one one hour is needed), but when I turned on the water again (pressure is about 85 PSI), it began leaking.  So epoxy putty didn't work.


texts: Are extension cords safe for permanent use?

texts:
I recently learned (via a rant from an electrician's son and some internet research) that the standard buy-anywhere cheapo extension cords are a big cause of electrical fires and are not recommended to be left plugged in.

So say I DO want to leave an extension cord plugged in permanently around the house. Is there some type of cord or some feature of a cord that is safer for this?


texts: Can IKEA FRAMTID built-in microwave be installed in a 24"-wide cabinet?

texts:
The FRAMTID microwave is listed as 30" but its' body is 21.8" wide. It looks like it would physically fit into a 24"-wide IKEA cabinet, and appears to be front/top- (not side-) vented. I even saw it installed in a 24" cabinet at an IKEA store (w/o being powered on). Yet installation instructions from Whirlpool call for a 28"+ cabinet width - implying 3"(!) air gap on each side.

So, can I install it in a 24"-wide cabinet? Or would that setup not allow for enough venting?


texts: Can I run a copper pipe for water in an exterior wall without it freezing in the winter?

texts: I would like to install a new hose bib on the exterior wall of my house, to be accessed on the deck.  Currently, there is a hose bib on the lower level (underneath the deck) straight down from where I would like to put this new one.  Is there a risk of a pipe this length freezing in the winter, if it is in the middle of the insulated exterior wall?  Should I use extra pipe insulation to prevent it from freezing, or with it being in a wall with insulation be enough?  I'm in Virginia, so it doesnt get that cold, but it does freeze.


texts:
I have a cable that I need to run through the ceiling. I'd like to go under the floor, but I have a split level house, and this is the lower floor, so I don't believe there is room in the bottom half of the wall to run cable.
Here's the situation in the ceiling. I think I have a decent handle on what needs done, but this is my first time having to do something like this, so I'm looking for tips and how I might actually fish the cable.
So here's where my cable comes in to the house (wall to the right of this pic out of frame), and where I can easily access the joists:

In my living room, here's what those ducts look like. Fortunately the joists run in the direction I'd like to run my cables.

Here's the TV, my wife wants a shelf above it for the cable box, home theater PC, etc. So I need to fish network cable to this spot on the wall. There is a cable outlet there already but I have hunted all over and I cannot find a the other end of the cable. This house was a rats nest of RG-11 wiring when I moved in, and none of it makes any sense.

Here is the approximate cable run.

My biggest questions:

how I'm going to get the cable about 4 feet down through that hump in my ceiling and then make a 90% turn.
How to fish it along the ceiling
Am I going to have to cut an access hole in my wall by the TV, then patch the drywall to do what needs done? I can't think of any other way to do it. At least not in a hole the size of a wiring box.


texts: Confirming if the toilet drain is properly installed

texts:
I have a toilet drain done, but when I flush the toilet, the water is not rushing down the bowl, but rather takes time to develop the spin.
I am wondering if this is the right way to do it and use short 90degrees, rather than long turns


texts: Is cooking oil suitable for curing a newly sanded wooden kitchen countertop or cutting board?

texts:
After properly sanding a large wooden cutting board or a wooden countertop (aka butcher countertop?), can I use just (virgin) olive oil to seal it? Is there a risk that olive (or sunflower, etc) oil will produce the very unpleasant gummy feel to the board?

I know that the hardware stores sell some kind of oil specifically for this purpose—one that is food-safe, but that is not suitable for cooking. I am wondering why an oil that is meant to be edible in the first place will not do.


texts: How can I connect multiple lamps to a single cable?

texts:
I have 5 lamps, which I want to attach to a single power cord. If it was only 1 or 2, I'd just plug the wires into an insulating screw joint like these:

But 5 cables are just too thick. How should I do it properly?


texts: What could cause my newly installed disposal to not work?

texts: I just replaced my garbage disposal. Completed install. Darned thing won't start. Checked the wire nuts two and three times. Nothing. Ideas?


texts: New crawl space fiberglass insulation - Strong odor

texts:
We just had fiberglass batt insulation installed in the crawl space under our house.  There is a strong odor coming from the crawl space that was not there this morning before the work was done.

I've never smelled anything like it and it is hard to describe.  It's sickly sweet and also reminescent of something charred or slightly burned.  It is what I might imagine burned cotton candy would smell like, maybe, but with other overtones as well.  It's quite unpleasant.

I realize this isn't a lot to go on, but does anybody have an idea of what the odor might be, and if it is harmful?  I would not have expected fiberglass insulation to have any odor at all.

I've emailed the contractor and asked for MSDS but probably won't get a response until tomorrow or Monday.


texts: Is there really any difference between yellow and white PTFE tape?

texts: Yellow PTFE tape (aka Teflon) is supposed to be used for sealing gas pipe thread, and white PTFE tape, for water. But is there really any difference between them? I had always thought that yellow was specially formulated to resist methane and other natural gas additives, but an HVAC tech told me the different colors are just markers, so that anyone looking at a pipe can immediately tell if it's gas or water. Other than their colors, they're just the same. Was he correct?


texts: Is there a "universal" flux core welding wire for repairing any kind of iron?

texts:
I need to weld a railing and am not sure what kind of metal it is made from.  For the time being, I'm going to assume it's iron until I can do a magnet test.  But short of getting a sample tested in a lab or doing the "spark test", I don't know how to identify the iron used.  I was planning on using a flux core MIG welder, but need to pick a proper wire composition.  Is there a general purpose wire I can use that would work reasonably well on wrought and cast iron?

EDIT - it is ferrous metal.


texts: Side venting range hood through a chimney

texts: After many painful design revisions to update a kitchen built in the 1920s, I think I've finally got it down.  One of my challenges has been being stuck with the location of the stove/oven, because the house chimney is right next to the cooking area. An old stove was once vented into the chimney, back when they used wood, I think.   Currently I have electric, due to the lack of a venting solution, but my design is to have a natural gas cooktop and an electric oven.  Above the cooktop will be the range hood, with a short cabinet above, and a 9" cabinet (to the right) between the hood and the chimney.    My question is: how do I vent the hood so it goes up the chimney, which also serves the boiler?


texts: What does the NEC consider to be a kitchen?

texts:
I understand that the NEC requires GFCI outlets in kitchens. But how does it define a kitchen?
If a room has a wet bar, that's not a kitchen, right? What if we add some more appliances (maybe a stove or dishwasher) next to the wet bar? At what point does the room become a second kitchen for the purposes of the NEC?


texts: How far apart should temporary A braces be on 18ft side walls before permanent bracing?

texts: I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a code for temporary bracing of a non-residential building before it is permanently braced with plywood? I was curious to know how far apart each "A" brace shoud be on an agricultural building in Minnesota, used to store machinery, that is 50'x80' with 18ft sidewalls?


texts: Should you coat exposed roofing nails with neoprene washers

texts:
Was on my roof cleaning pine needles and noticed that my roof had a number of exposed nails that have neoprene washers near flashing and on the last ridge shingle on each peak.
Should I seal over these with roofing tar or will the washer be sufficient protection? There is no signs of leaking from inside the attic and the roof is ~ 5 years old


texts: Didn't stain my new fence this summer: do it while its cold or wait until next year?

texts:
I have a new fence built from pressure-treated wood.  We did not get around to staining it this fall and the temperatures are now in the 40s.  Is it better just to wait until next year or should I attempt to stain it anyway?  Which is the better of two less than ideal options?

I live in SW Pennsylvania with wet winters and humid summers, so the fence will be experiencing a lot of varied weather until conditions are good for doing the job properly.  Its possible that we'll get a week back up in the high 40 or low 50s before Christmas, and I can take time off whenever to get the job done.


texts: Plug-In Power Monitor causing washing machine drum to become electrified?

texts:
I bought this plug-in power monitor four years ago. I have used it all over my house without issue. I should note that it is designed for UK plugs (I'm in Australia), so I've had to use some plug adapters. Because the UK plug adapters are "upside down" compared to australian plugs, could this be switching the polarities?

Yesterday I put it inline with my washing machine plug to test its usage. After I removed the clean clothes, I touched the metal case of the drum inside and received a decent strength electric shock.

I have been shocked before and I would say that this felt like about 50% of the strength of getting shocked directly from the power-point. It was an intense buzzing in my hand which left it sore for 30 mins after.

I used my proximity voltage detector which started beeping as soon as it came near the washing machine drum.

Having removed the power monitor, I've checked all over the washing machine with the voltage detector and it has not detected any power leakage in the drum or case.

4 years ago my washing machine was attached to a power point that burned and melted. I never found out the cause. Here is a picture of the washing machine plug.
Could this be causing the wires to cross in the plug somehow?

Can I safely use my washing machine?

Since there is no leakage detected when the power monitor is removed, can I safely assume that it is the culprit?

Is there any way to test if they Neutral wire is touching the drum when the machine is just plugged straight into the wall and my voltage detector doesn't detect anything?


texts: Can I install low voltage lighting in louvered wall register?

texts:
Louvered step lights are common but all that I've seen are decorative and not functional vents.

I'd like to install actual louvered registers on the side wall of my stairs and install low voltage lights in them so that my stairs are lit while at the same time allowing ventilation for the storage closet under my stairs.

Is this allowed? I know I can't have lighting inside HVAC but I'm not sure if this applies because I don't know if louvered openings between rooms (no forced air) constitutes HVAC.


texts:
I have this light fixture:

that used halogen light bulbs (philips ecovantage, 500 lumens, 120v, PAR FLOOD25) - ll failed during the same week but one:

I wanted to replace them with those LED light bulbs:
http://www.amazon.ca/Globe-Electric-30822-Directional-Equivalent/dp/B00KFWME2A

When I put them in the fixture, they won't do anything at all even if the dimmer is maxed. I tried them in another socket in the apartment, and the globes do work. I left the halogen bulb in, so now I have 4 unlit LED light bulbs and 1 lit halogen light bulb. Why is that? They were pretty expensive :(

Thanks


texts:
We recently bought a home with a defective ceiling fan (stuck in reverse), so I bought and installed a new one. The switches were kid of old and ugly so I replaced those as well. (1) switch for the fan and light and (1) switch for the can lights.

With the new switches installed and still hanging out of the wall, everything works seamlessly, but as soon as I push the switches into the switch box it trips the breaker. There doesn't appear to be any loose or frayed wires, and I have a good solid ground. Wired in exactly how I took it apart (one wire at a time).


texts: Will pressure-treated lumber shrink enough to cause failure of roof flashing around it?

texts:
We need to replace the flat roof on our balcony deck. In the process we also need to replace the balcony deck railing.
The salesman for our contractor recommended a wooden railing to match what we will be removing. But the contractor's carpenter is saying that the pressure-treated lumber he'd use will shrink over a 12 month drying period and might cause water problems around the post flashing.
Question: Is pressure-treated lumber shrinkage actually a concern in situations like this?
This has turned into a minor emergency since this unexpectedly became a game day decision.
Thank you so much!


texts: Can i connect 14-2 wire to the current 12-2 wire in this case?

texts:
i have already had 12-2 wire running through my garage. Now i have a small shed which is 50 feet away from the garage. My plan is to dismantle one of the outlet in the garage which is where the 12-2 wire ends. From there, i will:

Install a switch at the old outlet place (That switch will play a role as a circuit breaker for the whole shed)
Start connecting my 14-2 wire to my shed.
In the shed there would be only 1 more outlet which i use mostly for charging tools.

The reason i use 14-2 wire is because I have a 100ft of 14-2 wire UF from my friend and i do not want to waste it.

Just wonder, is that OK to do as above? Please advise, thanks a lot.


texts: Is an orbit sander preferable over a belt sander for tabletops?

texts:
Since I will be using a sander rather infrequently, I figured I'd save myself collecting more hardware by buying just a (portable) belt sander and using it for both serious sanding (areas on floors that are unreachable with a machine) and light-weight sanding (wood tabletops).

But for tables, I'm having a hard time getting a smooth finish, using 180-grit paper. Maybe 220-grit will make a big difference, but I doubt it.

Does either an orbit sander or a mouse sander give you more control when sanding a wood tabletop, to get a smoother finish? (I've applied linseed oil to seal, and am now applying polyurethane to finish).

Asked differently, is a belt sander just too much (unmanageable, takes too much too quickly, not random but leaves linear streaks, ..) to be used for finishing tabletops?


texts: How long to wait before cleaning new tuckpointed brick mortar with muriatic acid?

texts:
I am about to retuckpoint my exposed brick wall with a custom mortar mix (1x hydraulic lime, 2.5x sand).  Once I am done, I plan to clean the residue and other dirt from the bricks using muriatic acid.

My question is: what is the minimum amount of time I should wait for the mortar to cure before it is safe to apply muriatic acid over it?  Is a couple of days enough?  I have heard that masonry mixes (concrete/mortar) take as long as two weeks to fully cure, I was unsure whether it is safe to bring it in touch with a substance as potent as muriatic acid during that time frame.


texts: I need to connect bow copper as on the picture with a copper pipe, and I'd like to avoid soldering. Is there a special tool for this?


texts:
How much energy is wasted for the continuous operation of two bathroom exhaust fans?

Why are the wired this way?


texts: My inside water pressure is very low.  My outside pressure is good.  I did disconnect an old water softener and just connected the input and output pipes from the softener together.  I would like to fix the problem myself without calling a plumber...Any ideas???


texts: How to wire GFCI together with two switches controlling light/exhaust fan and vanity light

texts:
I'm installing a GFCI Outlet in the bathroom using 12/2 wire on a 20 amp breaker.

The outlet box contains GFCI Outlet, 1st Switch to control light/Exhaust Fan in ceiling, 2nd Switch to control vanity light above sink.

I have a closet in the bathroom which has an outlet box with both 12/2 and 14/2 running to the box. This is the end of the circuit.


texts: How do you know when you need a new water heater?

texts: Our hot water is hot sometimes, but not always. For example I might be able to fill up a tub with hot water one morning, but the next morning the water might be cold. This is our first home and when we bought it the water heater was already old. If we need a new one is it hard to install?


texts: What does it mean to get 2 phases of 110v outlet?

texts:
I'm a serious DIY-er and does little bit electric work on/around my house.

We are getting a new equipments in my garage that requires 220v.

But instead of running a 220v into garage, we got a converter adapter that works with 110v outlet to turn into 220v. But it has to have a 2 110 receptacle that are on 2 different phase.

Does it mean, the both receptacles, need to draw power from the panel each on a different pole?


texts: Increasing the distance from the wall of my pull up bar

texts:
I have the following chin up bar that is too close to the wall when using my new set of rings.

What is the best way to increase the distance from the wall? Can I simply add two vertical 2x4 (at each end) in between the chin up bar and existing horizontal 2x4?


texts:
For the third time, I plan to remove this strip of caulk in my bathtub/shower a bit beyond the discoloration (mold?) and recaulk it.  I would like to get it right this time.

I plan to remove the caulk where it is discolored (mold?), clean it, let it dry for 24 hrs, and recaulk using Loctite Polyseamseal Tub & Tile, then let it sit 24hrs before use.

What else should I do to ensure this discoloration (mold?) under/in the caulk doesn't return?  I thought I did it right last time, but obviously I didn't.

Also, is this the right sealant for this job?


texts: How to prevent small birds from getting trapped inside open double-hung windows?

texts: I have a double-hung window which has an AC unit, meaning it is always open.  Occasionally, like just now, small birds get trapped in between the panels and they can't get out because it is narrow and they have like 15" to climb with glass on either side. Is there any way to put something on the window that will prevent small critters from getting trapped when there is an opening they can get through?


texts: Pulling wire close to ceiling vs along wall at normal receptacle height

texts:
I’ve built a small workshop and I’m beginning to workout where I want the receptacles and where I want switches and lighting.
Is there anything wrong with pulling wire up close to the ceiling instead of down low?
And also bring 90% of the wiring distribution in through the top of the panel?
The building is stand-alone 14x34‘ and I have multiple doors and windows to pull wires over. Almost all of my receptacles will be at 53” from the floor. It just doesn’t make sense to me during the rough in drilling holes to run wire over a doorway then down and back up over the next doorway.


texts: Can red dye cause premature failure in pex tubing?

texts: I've been told that red pex had a higher failure rate because of some flaw introduced by the red dye in it. Has anyone heard anything like that? I can't find anything online about it so far.


texts: Why is my wiring a fire hazard when we have circuit breakers?

texts:
A neighbor in my (US) building just found out that his laundry room (and others in the building including mine) are wired incorrectly. When the original washer and dryer were replaced, the dryer stayed on the existing 240 V circuit while the washer (needs only 120 V) was wired...elsewhere. In his case it was "bridged to some kitchen outlets" (mine is on the same circuit as outlets in the living room, I had to flip the breakers to figure it out).

He has since been told that this is not up to code and is a dangerous fire hazard. I believe it but I don't understand why. I'm an asic designer, with no experience in residential or power electronics. If my washer draws too much current while my TV, cable box, and video games are all drawing from the same path, wouldn't the breaker flip long before a fire? Isn't that the point of a breaker?

The breaker for the laundry room is a double-wide 30 A breaker. The washer is now on a standard width 15 A breaker. What's the problem?


texts: Do I need to ground my off-grid house inverter?

texts:
I'm building a battery box for my off-grid house, consisting of a 155AH AGM sealed battery, Krieger 1100-watt inverter and a Samlex SEC-1230UL 30A battery charger for using my generator to charge the battery. I'll also have two cigarette lighters and a small water pump attached to the battery.

Everything will have its own appropriate inline fuse and everything will be connected directly to the battery terminals. Maybe not the most proper way to do things but with how simple it is I think it's fairly reasonable to connect everything directly.

My question is, do I need to ground any of this?

It's all just going to be in a battery box by my desk, there's no holes in the floor currently. It would be a fairly large hassle to run a ground line and I'm not sure if I know how or what the purpose of it is. The inverter says to run a ground wire to the chassis, but it's more of an inverter for a vehicle.

Any advice?


texts: How can I prevent mold on the wall/particle board behind the kitchen sink?

texts: Behind the kitchen sink I noticed this deteriorating situation happening so I took it apart until I found no more mold and then washed with bleach (1 tbsp to 1 gallon) and let it dry good.  It's all the way down to the dry wall.  There does not appear to be a leak or any sort, but the splashing from washing dishes seems to have caused.  Any recommendations on how to go about fixing and avoiding in the future?


texts: Where can I find something similar to a fluorescent tube, with only one end for electrical contact

texts: I want to redo the floor light in the front patio. My idea is to create a few light rods coming out of the floor and pointing toward the ceiling. For this purpose, it would be nice if the anode and the cathode could be close instead of spread at each extremities. It can be LED or even regular light, I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I guess I'm not using the right words... This sketch might help you.


texts: Mark location of holes with two boards fitted together

texts:
I made a small cabinet that had a piece of plywood on top of it as part of a display platform for our Christmas tree.  The plywood fastened to the top of the cabinet with screws.  (1st image.)

I drilled holes through the plywood on top, down into the cabinet, then put threaded inserts into the holes in the cabinets.  You can see the holes in the cabinet (which is also plywood).  These holes do not go all the way through the cabinet top and, notice, one is partially in the side of the cabinet, so I do not want to run that all the way through.

Now that Christmas is over, we've realized this cabinet is rather handy and I want to cut another piece of plywood that will fit over this cabinet and extend back, behind the cabinet, to create a display platform for some small items in my wife's antique collection.

I'd like to line the plywood for the new platform over top of the cabinet, just like before, and be able to fasten it in with screws, like I did with the plywood for the platform for the Christmas tree.  Of course, to do that, I need to drill holes in the new plywood that line up with the existing screw holes in the cabinet.  The problem is aligning them and marking the locations when the two parts are joined together and I can't get to the screw holes in the cabinet.

What is the best way to do this?  I can measure them, but I would think there's a better way to do this.  Is there something I can put in the existing holes that will mark the bottom of the plywood for me?  Or us just using a tape measure for distance the best way to make matching holes in a new piece of plywood?


texts: I found this with a bunch of other old tools. This is the only one I can't figure out what it is. I wonder if it's a home made tool for some unique purpose. Or maybe it was just for made for fun out of random available parts. Or was this something mass produced in the 1800s? I'm curious. The two black bulb handles rotate and the metal piece on the bottom also rotates. Kind of looks like a door handle. Also looks like it could be a spool of some sort. Any ideas?


texts: What to do with ground wire in light fixture?

texts:
I’m installing a light fixture that has a white wire, a black wire, and a ground wire.
The ceiling where the new light fixture goes only has a white wire and a black wire (hot). It doesn’t have a ground wire.
What can I do with the ground wire from the light fixture so that everything’s grounded?
These are the cables connected to the switch: there are only two black wires and both are hot:

These are the cables coming from the ceiling. There’s only a black wire and a white wire (already connected to the light fixture):


texts: Can I have net-metering with an ATS between utility and batteries and diverse power inputs (solar, wind, generator) behind the batteries?

texts:
I would like to participate in net-metering until I have a solar array large enough to disconnect from the grid entirely.  However, for various reasons, I am going to have an undersized solar array for the next 5-10 years.
I would also like to have full power during blackouts and I am happy to purchase a battery bank to enable this.
My final requirement is that I would like to opportunistically mix other power inputs into my batteries as they are required.  Since my solar array is undersized and power outages might last a long time, I could switch over to a generator or (dangerously, weirdly) connect my electric car.
The bottom line is, I want all of the benefits of a vanilla grid-tied net-metering installation on one side of the batteries, and on the other side of the batteries I want a swiss army knife of macguyver power inputs.
I think a schematic looks something like this:
utility <---> ATS <---> batteries <--- solar
So far so good.  Vanilla grid tied net-metering, right ?  But now, instead of connecting only the solar to the batteries, I would instead connect a 4 way manual transfer switch:
utility <---> ATS <---> batteries <--- 4-way-MTS
One input to that switch would be the solar panels.  Another could be my Generac generator.  Another could be a small wind turbine that I have the ability to install.  Another could be a CS6375 that would let me plug in anything ...
Under normal operation, the manual switch would be set to the solar array and I would get the benefits of net metering, etc.  However, this would go through the batteries so if there is a power outage, the ATS would switch over immediately to the batteries and we would not lose power.
During this power outage, if were out of town, the solar array could probably match the power needs and keep the batteries charged.  But if we were present, we would eventually throw the manual switch to the generator.  Or if we were conserving power and it was windy out, we could throw it to the wind turbine.  Or if the generator breaks, pull up a rental job-site generator and plug right into the CS6375.  Or we could (dangerously, weirdly) connect our electric car batteries to the CS6375 and void our warranty.  We would have a LOT of flexibility.
Is this a valid and code-compliant configuration for safe, utility compliant net metering ?
Have I described anything (other than the car hookup) that doesn't work the way I think it will ?
There are 4 way manual transfer switches, right ?
Thanks.


texts: Insulation in basement with plaster walls

texts:
I’m looking to finish my basement. I have a 1940’s cape cod with a poured concrete basement. The basement walls have a fairly thick layer of plaster to them, very rough looking. It’s   and in good shape. No water issues.  I want to treat the plaster like it’s part of the concrete walls and do glue with EPS board. On top of that I’d build my frame/bays for my walls. Roxul batts with no vapor barrier and then dry wall.

Alternatively, I thought I could just frame out the basement on top of the plaster, use no insulation, and then do whatever finish I wanted (drywall, paneling, etc). I don’t get any added insulation but I also won’t break the plaster and I’d get the look I wanted.

Any help or input is appreciated!


texts: How to repair buckled duct work inside wall?

texts:
Update

I think the duct is actually fine. The duct connects to a register that is shared by two rooms. When heating, one room is gets hot, while the other is cool (not too cold). I think the problem is either insulation or windows. The hot room has 1 window, the cool room has 3 windows. I've put film over the widows, but it's still cold. Next I'll try blankets.

Background

My house was built in the 1930s, I assume these ducts were installed when the home was built. This duct goes from the supply plenum in the basement to the 2nd floor master bedroom. The best I can measure, it's 10" x 4" .

If you look in the photo below, the duct work is comprised of several small sections of metal. They look to be about a foot long each, with some overlap between sections. Note: the light source is a ribbon of LEDs that I lowered down the duct.

My concern is that the metal is buckled in several spots and is coming away from the wall, and I'm concerned that it's leaking air pressure. Presumably, the outside of the duct is the wall studs and lath and plaster.

Question

Should I actually be concerned about the buckling metal? Is there really that much air pressure being lost?
Is there anything I can do to repair this?

Repair Ideas

I had a couple of ideas of some repairs.

I could try to reattach the metal to the walls with sheet metal screws from the inside. This would require drill extensions and an 90 degree adapter ... and it would probably be pretty difficult to do.
I could try to drill through the walls on the outside of the ducts and secure the metal with toggle bolts.
I could try to fill the gaps with spray foam gap filler, but that could backfire if it expands and pushed the ducts out further.
I could try to run flex ducts inside the old duct work, or maybe duct board since there aren't any rectangular duct products.


texts: I want to install attic stairs. The rough opening is 30x44 when measured to the wall. Or 30x51 if measured to the end of the opening. Most attic stairs are 30x54. Is there a way to install the stairs with these differences is measurement?  What would I need to do?


texts: Create a constant 5 mm gap between decking and side panels

texts:
I have some decking for which I've built the frame, and the main "floor" decking already but haven't done the sides for yet.  The decking goes right up to the edges of the subframe that it sits on.

For the sides, i'm going to screw some more decking boards horizontally onto the side of the sub frame.  However, I'd like there to be a 5mm gap between the decking top and the side, to allow for some expansion, and also to allow for a consistent flat surface for the boards on the side.

How i was thinking i might achieve this is by putting a 5mm plastic strip between the boards and the frame, where i'm screwing it in.  (I was thinking plastic just for ease of cutting it up into the required size) I would then glue the strips to the board, in line with where the screws would go, before putting it onto the frame and screwing it on.

Does this seem like a sensible approach?  Does anyone know of a product like this?  Or a simpler way to do it with some cheap material?

EDIT - i just thought of one solution:  buy a bag of nuts and bolts (or just nuts if they can be bought without the bolts) where the nuts are 5mm thick.  This should be cheap and easy.  Then, yuse the nuts as spacers.  Ideally i would screw through the middle of each nut, but this might be tricky to manage.


texts: What are the drawbacks of using a GFCI instead of a proper ground wire?

texts: I notice that it is considered up to code to install a GFCI in the absence of a proper ground, but that it must be labeled (link). Why is this? Does the GFCI have some drawbacks compared to a proper ground wire? Is it safe for people but dangerous for equipment?


texts:
I'm looking for the name of the plastic piece that is labeled #2 in the attached picture.
The condensate goes into the plastic box and then overflows into a tube that goes to the sump.
I'm having the hardest time finding the name of the piece.


texts: How can I drill through a Linoleum floor?

texts: I would like a drill a hole through my dining room floor to run a wire. The floor is carpeted, so I pulled back the carpet in the corner to find an old linoleum floor.  I attempted to drill a hole through it, but the linoleum seemed to melt and then form an impenetrable barrier. What type of drill bit could I use to get through the linoleum and the wood below?


texts: Can I use a wood top plate on top of a steel track to build a roof-bearing steel frame?

texts:
I am building a room within my garage using double studs, double track, steel framing.  The outer dimensions for this room are 23' l x 16' 6" w x 10' h, and will share no common walls or ceiling with the garage space.  The garage floor is 6" thick concrete.
Most steel construction calls for attaching the tracks to existing floor / ceiling joists, and then place the studs in between the two tracks.  This will not work for my application, as I have no ceiling joists to attach to (so the top track will be flimsy).
To solve this problem, I would like to use a wood top plate on top of a steel track, and build a flat roof on top of the wooden top plate.  (Similar to Detail No. W1 (p60) from the HUD: Hybrid Wood and Steel Details-Builder's Guide document.)  The "Data" on page 61 of the guide lead me to believe this approach is possible.
My concern is that I have not found any examples of this kind of construction from searching the internet.
Questions:

Does adding a wood top plate on top of the steel top track provide enough weight to stabilize the wall?

Are there any resources showing a build detail of this kind of construction?


texts: I am installing a humidity sensing fan (Delta GBR80H) into a bathroom where no fan existed before, only have a light switch. What is the best way to accomplish this?


texts: How to make table legs from wooden planks?

texts:
I'm making a coffee table out of old pallets. The top part is finished, all it needs now is legs. I want to use only parts from old pallets and I don't want it to become very heavy, so I was thinking of using 2 planks in a 90° angle on each corner of the table as legs. I have no experience in woodworking so I don't know if this is a good idea or how to do this...

Will 2 planks in a 90° angle be stable enough as a coffee table leg?
Should I mount the planks on each side of the corner of the table top
or should I mount them under the table top and hold them in place
with a frame?

It would be appreciated if someone could point me in the right direction.


texts: Fan Only operation not working - gas forced air furnace

texts: So i followed online guidance to enable "fan only" mode for my forced air gas furnace,  Essentially that was to connect the "G" terminals on the t-stat and the furnace board.  Seems simple enough, but it does not seem to work, so i am wondering if it is not possible???   Before i go tearing into Murphys Law stuff like a broke wire etc, any sage advice is appreciated.  Thanks  Jim


texts: Where could the water leaking from in my Dishwasher?

texts:
It will only leak during the first 2 minutes of the cycle and than cleans the dishes fine.
The leaking is from somewhere at the bottom of the case in the center where the arm and filters are housed,
not from any hose underneath the case.
Whirpool WDTA50SAHZ0
Wish I could upload a video.


texts: How do I replace the exterior wall without damaging the siding?

texts: I have three exterior walls that need all the studs and the top plate replaced. I am a novice carpenter and I try to learn everything through research and study first. The walls would need realigned as well as raised due to prior cuts on the bottom of the studs to replace base plate.  The two outer walls need the bottom brought in and the front wall dividing the home from the enclosed porch needs the top brought in. How do I replace and fix all of this without doing any harm to the siding or it falling or coming off?


texts:
Having some trouble with intermittent firing on my furnace. Three times this week I have had to go and manually reset it. Has been an issue for two heating
Go seasons now with multiple folks coming to look at it. Specifics - Bard FLR140D60e model, oil fired. Running a two year old Genisys 7505 control unit, problem predates the install of the new unit. Regularly serviced and filters replaced. Troubleshooting to date. New control unit, replaced blower fan thinking perhaps air flow was an issue, electrical diagnostics from the mother board all check, igniter fan shows no signs of failure, high limit switch replaced, fire eye check and positioned, new nozzles on multiple occasions. Everything turns on but never fires just continues to blow cold air until you hit the reset on the control and it fires right up. A new for me was it was not starting and on a whim I opened the fire box door and when it slammed close it reset itself and fired right up. Not sure what do look at next. Any suggestions.


texts:
Question Update: We now know that the problem is Carbon Dioxide; any suggestions on what could be consuming oxygen and producing Carbon Dioxide would be great!

We rent an old farm house that has recently been renovated, the cellar has been tanked, it would be perfect as an office, but I'm out of breath just typing this question.

It seems that either a build up of some other gas is excluding the oxygen. Does anyone have any ideas?  It doesn't seem normal!!

I'm guessing it's oxygen (or lack of) as I'm unable to even light a match in the cellar.

It does seem to be worse when it's wet weather.

There is NO obvious source of gasses, as the house has electric heating, cooking and hot water

I've also asked this related question on the Chemistry Stackexchange site

UPDATE 2

We've had the Environment Health monitoring the Cellar and the rest of the house for some weeks now. They have now served a prohibition order preventing us from using the cellar.  They recorded levels approaching 10%, today we have had a surveyor at the house appointed by the landlord and they initially speculate the source could be soot used in the foundations.  Any thoughts?

UPDATE

An insepector from the local council has installed a data-logger, whilst he was in the basement he took a reading that I've attached below. When this reading was taken the air felt poor, but by no means the worst it's been, a candle wouldn't stay alight. An breathing during conversation seemed laboured. It looks like the assumption of displacement doesn't look correct, there's more to it.
Here's the readings:

Gas - Reading (Normal)

CO2 3.3% (0.04%)
O2 17.5% (20.8%)
Other 79.2% (unchanged?)


texts: How do I adjust a Delta bathroom faucet that has a scald guard?

texts:
I have a new Delta faucet but the water temperature is too low. The handle actually doesn't even turn all the way to "hot", there's something preventing it from turning the entire way.

Is there a way to adjust the faucet so I can get hotter water?


texts: The balcony of our rented flat is based on metal pillars with indents. The balustrade is fixed to the pillars with kind of claws that stick into the indents. I'd like to use the same indents to fix a lamp, plants etc. without damaging the pillar. How could one name this claws, get them or construct a similar fixation?


texts: How do I troubleshoot an electric furnace?

texts:
I have a Coleman 3300-9051 electric furnace w/AC. The blower continually runs.

Where do I find a repair manual and/or what could be the problem.
How do I test it.


texts: Should I pre-built rafter units, or build them in-place?

texts:
I'm planning a small roof - 12' x 16', gable style. Almost all the rafters will identical.

Should I build rafter units ahead of time? 2 rafters + a ceiling joist + plywood gussets. I'd make a simple jig on the deck (before the walls are built) to assemble a rafter unit. Like pre-built trusses but DIY.

Or should I put up a ridge beam and install the rafters one at a time?

Below are more specifics about this particular project, but I'm more interested in the general decision making around this question.

Rafters and ceiling joists are 2x6, 24" O.C. Studs are 24" O.C. as well, so each rafter will be right on a stud.


texts: My local store has a limited selection and for framing an exterior wall my choices are using 1-1/4" x 6" and somehow double them or 2-1/4" x 10" and cut each of them at the 6" width. Using 1 x 6 would be much easier so my question is if it's possible and what would be the best way to do that. Just double them at 16", maybe fasten together? I would prefer not to build 2 x 10 exterior walls to save some space inside the house. These would be exterior load bearing walls, 8' high. Thanks.


texts:
I have requirement to create a device which works on 3AA battery and uses a small enclosure. When all the items are put inside the enclosure, only about 31x31x60 space is left.
So all the readily available 3xAA battery case were out. They are mostly linear and are of sizes 57x48x20 or so. I have the metal contacts needed to create the battery holder:

The idea I have is to make something like this:

The case would be open from top side, and would have side walls and bottom wall. Its almost like a "U" shaped case. The easiest way to prototype this  would be to get acrylic sheet cut but once the walls are all made, I've the next step to "fasten" the metal spring contacts. I have following options:

Araldite
Make another thin wall parallel to the end of the U shaped side wall, to "hold" the plates.
Make holes made on the metal spring contacts and then screw them via m1.5/m2 to the U wall.

In terms of ease, 1>3>2. However I dont know if option 1 to glue using araldite is going to work well - will it cause any leakage current to go higher (I doubt, just double checking). And I'm not too sure if araldite is stable and strong enough for this metal/acrylic bonding for 3-4 years life. Option 3 is definitely a possiblity but asthetically not pleasing. And option 2 is lot of extra work, but would just work.
Please let me know what you guys think.


texts: Refrigerator not cooling: told to unplug 24 hours

texts:
Our fridge hasn't been cooling for about a day. It makes no sounds at all and everything has been warming up. There is power because the internal light comes on.

Our appliance guy told us to unplug the fridge for 24 hours and then plug it back in.

How would this fix the issue?


texts: Has anyone tried to use an endoscope for their pool plumbing? I bought one but it wont get very far into the pool lines without getting stuck. Ive tried using a plumbing snake by itself, but really it just does the same thing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks guys.


texts: Can you extend rake edge on existing gable?

texts: I have a barn on my property with a decent roof - (shingles look good and may have another 5-8 years on them).  The rake edge on the gable, however, is perfectly flush with the sides of the barn, NO OVERHANG.  Thus when it rains the siding gets no protection from the elements.  Granted overhangs will not totally protect the side of the barn, but an overhang will keep a fair amount of moisture off of the side.  Can I extend my rake edge such that there is an overhang on the two sides of my barn, or can this really only be done when I re-do the roof?


texts: Bathroom Remodel Lathing/Plaster and New Drywall Alignment

texts:
I just started a remodel of an old Bathroom, 1920's vintage.  It had tile on the walls about half way up,  I pulled those out.
I am trying to decide if I should remove the rest of the wall plaster and lathing (it is wood strips with plaster on top) up to the ceiling. Or Can I get away with putting dry wall just where the tile came out.
Seems like it might be hard to get the drywall and the old lathing/plaster to line up correctly the depth of the lathing/plaster is not some standard drywall thickness.
Looking for thoughts on this !


texts: How to prevent batteries leaking out in devices?

texts: Is there a common method of preventing batteries from leaking out and destroying the device?  Why does this happen in the first place?  I have laid another head lamp to waste because it was sitting in my truck unused for several months.  Could it be because of the lack of use?  In that case, should the batteries be taken out in anticipation of less use?


texts:
My fridge broke, so I replaced the analog thermostat with an ESP2688 + relay + DS18S20 temperature sensor.

My server is getting the temperature readings every 10 seconds and is capable of switching the relay to turn the fridge on and off (once the logic is settled, I will bake it into an Arduino).

I've set it so that the server switches the relay on when the temperature is above 5°C (41°F) and off again when it's below 4.5°C (40.1°F).

A full cycle takes about 35 minutes about 5 of them cooling down (the fridge is currently empty, so there is no food "storing any coldness").

I know from my parent's house that the fridge turns on far less often (mine is about 17 years old, theirs about 3).

Is this a problem? Should I increase the temperature range, let's say from 5°C to 4°C? This way a cycle would take about an hour.

The image contains 12 hours of logged temperature data. I can't remember the change I made at around 10pm, I think I relocated the temperature sensor, but at 13:30 (1:30pm) I changed the lower temperature from 4 to 4.5.

Now, what is better for the fridge/compressor? A longer cycle or a shorter one? What is cheaper from the power consumption point of view? I can't place a power meter at the outlet because it's an integrated fridge and quite a hassle to remove it just to get to the outlet.


texts: How safe is it to plug in an extension cord that has a missing ground pin in to a GFCI outlet?

texts: I know it will still provide power and such but what are the potential safety hazards?


texts: What kind of ventilation do I need in my workshop?

texts: I have a roughly 2.5 by 5 meter workshop with 2.5m high ceilings in which I work on electronics (so lots of soldering), do some occasional painting, and which houses a 3D printer. I want to add some ventilation in the ceiling, but I'm unsure what kind to put in. How much air should it move, and is it worth adding multiple "openings" (for instance, one over the 3D printer and one over the soldering station) in a space of this size?