texts:
I went outside Sunday morning and the pool pump was not running but power was working to pool light transformer and two outlets. Called an electrician, he got the pump running but after he left I noticed the transformer and outlets were not working. The transformer and one of the outlets were connected to a single pole 15 amp breaker. The other outlet was connected to a 20 amp breaker. After the fix that 20 amp breaker would trip if the power to the 15 amp was on.
I put the transformer on it's own breaker and the pool lights are now working. I also put the gfi outlet that was attached to the 15 amp breaker on its own breaker and I got intermittent/low voltage to the outlet. Not enough power to power a battery charge for my lawn tools. I then decided to replace the gfi with a 15 amp gfi and still nothing. I relized after installing that the old gfi was a 20 amp so replaced it and the breaker with 20 amp products. Still low voltage to the outlet.
Now, to my question. When I turn the transformer breaker off I get zero power to the gfi. However, when they are both on I get some power as mentioned above. Is it possible the hot line going from the panel to the outlet went bad and it is drawing power from the low voltage transformer hot? Again, I get zero power to the outlet if the transformer breaker is off.
Regarding the electrician, he wasn;t great and I don;t think he even knows how he got the pool pump running but here is what happened: he went into the basement of the house and turned the breaker off. There was a junction box that he said was wired incorrectly. He "fixed" the wiring, turned on the breaker and when we got outside the pump was running. Looking back at what happened it almost seems like he simply flipped what was working and what wasnt. He also changed the wire configuration in the panel to reflect the changes he made in the basement. Side note, I previously had issues with power to the pool panel and had a new line run about 4-5 years ago.
Any thoguhts on the breaker that is tripping are welcome too! :)
This is the panel:
Homeline 100 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Load Center


texts: How to install kitchen shelves in a wall which conceals a pocket door?

texts: What are methods to install kitchen shelves on a wall behind which is the cavity for a pocket door? There are a few studs in the cavity but I'm not sure if they are thin studs and if they would be appropriate to support the weight of kitchen shelves. I would need to make sure to use short screws which wouldn't penetrate so deep as to collide with the concealed door.


texts: Mitered Tile Edge Trim around Niche in Shower... Will water get behind it?

texts:
I'm wondering what the proper way to install tile edge trim around a shower niche is.
Some people leave space for grout in between the mitered edges and some people don't (see pictures for example of both).  It seems to me that leaving space for grout is the correct way so water will not seep through and get behind tile.
But perhaps it does not matter as I see more examples of people not leaving any space for grout in the mitered ends.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.


texts: What kind of cable and connectors are these?

texts:
My old circulation pumps were connected by armored cable. However, on pre built systems I've see a different kind of cable. It looks almost like an appliance cable with plastic terminators between the pumps and box. Is this something that is generally available? Any issues with issues with code, as long as it's in the open?
Note: I understand the attached picture shows electronic valves and not pumps, but the wiring and connectors are the type in question.


texts: How can I repair a split copper pipe in place?

texts:
I have this exterior hydrant. If you read the reviews, you'll see that it's prone to a split inlet pipe. It's happened to me too.
The pipe is actually part of the valve. Water doesn't come gushing out of the split in the pipe unless you open the faucet.
Is there any way to repair this? Or am I looking at tearing out the entire section of wall to get in there and replace it?
Here's what mine looks like:


texts:
I need a new aerator for this kitchen tap, but I can't identify the correct type required.
I have a standard fitting that fits the thread, but it doesn't interface with the narrow pipe directly like the old aerator (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B08DLWHCD5). This appears to be required, as otherwise water leaks from the thread (there's no where for the normal seal to go in this spout, as the pipe is at an angle).
Is this a standard type of fitting?


texts: Are these drywall screws properly driven/countersunk?

texts:
Related to this question.  Even though I might be cluttering up SE with questions about driving drywall screws, I feel they will ultimately be helpful since I have been unsuccessful in finding images of properly-driven drywall screws.  Plus, it's a good thing to know how to do properly.  Now onto the content of my question:

Today, I talked to the superintendent of the company I hired to hang drywall on my ceiling and addressed my concerns about the improperly-driven screws (see link to other question above).  I had already addressed this concern twice before, but I was assured that there was nothing to be concerned about, that they have done thousands of homes like this and have never had any problems.  This time, though, I pushed a little harder and I think I struck a nerve because now the superintendent, project manager, and one of the workers are coming out tomorrow to "see what they can do" about the contract.

Feeling guilty about criticizing the quality of their work and in spite of all the support I have gathered from SE members, I wondered if I was wrong about their screws being driven improperly.  I decided to break out a spare length of 2x4 and some scrap drywall I had laying around and put a few screws into it using my own drywall bit.  The results, in my opinion, look great.  I actually believe I drove these screws the way any true professional would.  No paper was broken and no torn fibers are exploding out all over.  It looks neat and crisp.  The heads recess into the surface and there is no contact when I scrape a putty knife across the sheet.  When they come tomorrow, I want to show them this sample piece I put together and hopefully let it serve as a far better example of how drywall screws should be driven.

If I can get some feedback on my drywall-driving skills, that'd be great.


texts: Can I overlay lumber perpendicular to floor joists to raise the floor height?

texts:
We have put our 2x6s joists down in our bathroom that is 2.45m by 1.45m.
We realized that we are short by about 8cm, so we were thinking, is it a bad idea to put 2 by 6s flat I.e the 6 going horizontal, the 2 going vertical, perpendicular to how the joists are at the moment? Or is this not allowed? And if so, is there a required span?
Plywood and tiles will go on top of this as it’ll be a wetroom.
Please see the picture below.
Also, when I said 2x6s flat I mean like this.


texts: Can I add a retaining wall to the base of the existing face?

texts:
I have a concrete pad next to a soil portion of the yard.  I'd like to make the soil level with the pad (and will be adding sod later), but to do so, I need some sort of retaining wall.  There is wood below the fence creating a sloped retaining wall, but to raise the dirt, I'll need to go above the current wall onto the fence.

My current thought is I have two options

1) Build a second, more shallow retaining wall against the fence to retain the new soil.

If I do this, do I need any space between the old retaining wall the new one? If so how much? Will filling with gravel be sufficient?

2) Add new pressure treated 2x6s to the base of the existing fence (on top of the panels).

This seems like much less work, but will I have any issues with this?  Drainage seems to be working fine and the wood is holding up well on the current fence. In the picture below, the bottom vertical piece of wood is 'submerged' under gravel and the entire yard drains towards that point and I've yet to have issues. .  The bottom of the fence is badly rotted in the corner, I just couldn't see it under the gravel, so something else clearly needs to be done there.

For reference, the soil on the left most part is ~8in" below the concrete and above that there is about a 6" lip


texts:
I'm doing a project I have to make a spray that erases crayon off the wall without removing the original paint.

How do I do that?


texts: Why is 1/4" underlayment supposed to be parallel to the subfloor?

texts:
Per instructions of my 1/4" plywood underlayment that will be used for Vinyl loose-lay flooring, it states to run it parallel with the existing 3/4" T&G OSB flooring.  I always assumed that running it perpendicular to the existing OSB would be better for strength and for flat (seams don't line up near as easily).  What is the reasoning?

Also, how important is it to fill and holes in the OSB before laying and stapling the 1/4" plywood underlayment?


texts: I need to purchase the conversion cover discussed when an octagonal box is used to hold a duplex receptacle. Article stated it was new but could be found online. Please supply e-mail address. Thanks.


texts: How can I insulate the floor to prevent sound from travelling through it?

texts:
I live in a top floor flat (apartment), and have a real problem with sound travelling from the flat beneath me. The worst sound is either bass from a TV, or voices.

I paid a company a few years ago to install 'sound insulation', which they applied by means of an expandable foam which they sprayed between the joists.

I really don't believe that this had any affect at all, which was very disappointing as I paid a lot of money for this service.

It's very difficult to tell where the sound is coming from, i.e. I can't tell if it's riding up the walls, or coming through the floor.

On my floor, I have large joists with expandable foam between them, then floorboards, then plywood, then carpet underlay, then carpet.

Is there anything further I can do? or do I have to pay to get my neighbour's ceiling (beneath my floor) insulated in some way.

There is also the complication that there are eaves around the edge of my flat, so it's difficult to put insulation down across the whole floor (without removing the eaves walls) and I also can't tell if the sound might be travelling up into the eaves and coming through the walls.


texts: Grounding light switch to electrical box?

texts:
I've been replacing a few light switch in the house.  Ran into a small snag.  Old house, so there isn't a ground wire in the box for the switch, just the line and load wires.  I've connected the new light switch ground wire to the metal box that is holding it, by attaching it to one of the screws that connects to the box.

Is it good enough or shoddy work? Should I still run a ground wire to the box to do it right?  I'm not an electrician just a DIYer.


texts: Can a boiler water feed / pressure relief valve be repaired?

texts:
I am a homeowner trying to troubleshoot my hot water boiler system (Winkler Gas Boiler).  I noticed recently that my boiler is reading zero pressure.  The combination fill & pressure relief valve (at least I think thats what it is - pictured below) is producing a slight hissing sound (from the nut on the top left with the green around it) and water drips constantly from the overflow pipe (none of this seems to change when the system is running except that more water is released).  The system seems to be heating fine, but I am concerned with constantly losing water and adding more freshwater to the system...

In the above picture, the automatic water feed line is on the left, the steel pipe at the bottom of the valve is the overflow pipe, and the copper pipe on the right extends to the boiler.  The green copper oxide has been on the fill valve for some time (indicating water leakage?), but the boiler would previously hold pressure and not drain so much water.

I am wondering if I need to replace the combination fill/relief valve altogether or if I can repair it?  It seems that the nut on the top left (with the green around it) is leaking slightly (producing the green and slight hissing sound), and am wondering if I can loosen it and use thread sealant to stop the leak.  I know that I don't want to seal the relief valve and cause an explosion, but would tightening that particular nut do that?  The nut is completely closed on top and doesn't look like it's designed to release pressure - also it seems like the other side of the pressure relief valve (top right section with the small handle) would be where excess pressure is released...

I'm not sure if this nut leaking would cause my problems, but figured it would worth asking.  Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

Aaron


texts: Breakers loose in main panel, does whole panel need to be replaced?

texts:
I went on a breaker flipping binge the other day because the panel at my house wasn't labeled and I had a doorbell transformer to replace. After I got the doorbell finished I realized the fridge wasn't running. Investigated and found that the issue is the breakers have some wiggle to them, not flopping around but if you apply slight pressure to top or bottom they move a fair bit. Can reliably get fridge to turn off by wiggling that breaker.

The Wiggle (animated gif but seems to only go if clicked on):

I'm not super comfortable with fussing in the main panel, I'm just wondering if I should expect an electrician to want to replace the whole panel? Does replacing the whole panel seem reasonable for something like this? Should I just swap out this one breaker for now and see if that helps?


texts:
apologies if this question is answered.
I need to make a bevel plate (of 10 degrees) to support wooden I-joists on a single slope (shed) roof assembly. I'm working with 2x6s, and I'd really like to cut the ten degree bevel across the 5.5'' dimension of the board, but I am really struggling to figure out how to do it.
Just to be clear, I need to rip these 2x6 long ways, with a 10 degree bevel going the width of the board to support a wooden I-joist at 10 degree angle.
I thought I could cut the boards on both sides with a circular saw, but unless I have a monster (8'' + inches) circular saw they blade is too short for the cut to meet in the middle.
Any ideas?


texts: How to *cheaply* repair scratches in plexiglass window

texts:
I have a plexiglass window that is surrounding a window air conditioner.
There are a few scratches in it.
I watched a video on youtube where they instructed to wet sand with 600 grit and rubbing compound.
I do not have rubbing compound and am not sure if I should especially buy it for one PG window.
Is there a cheap way to buff out these scratches? Toothpaste? I know it's used to clean up car headlights.
I want this plexiglass to last for a long time.
Thank you and have a great day!
EDIT I  have scratches  NOT CRACKS!!


texts: How do I porperly identify which sensor wires are which for my pre-wired garage door openers?

texts:
I am going to install 2 garage door openers and I'm stuck on wiring the sensors.
For each garage door I have 1 x 22-2 wire on one side of the door and 2 x 22-2 wire runs on the other side of the door.  At the outlet on the ceiling I have 3 x 22-2 wire runs and on the wall by the entry door I have 3 x 22-2 wire runs. I hooked up a tracer to one set of wires by the door and every single wire in my garage that is related to the garage door are all pinging as if signal is going through all of them. Any advice for how to narrow this down or how it might have been prewired for the sensors and control panel?
Power for the opener isn’t an issue.


texts: Can the blanket Insulation in my basement be left in place when refinishing?

texts: I'm thinking about finishing my basement. It currently has the blanket insulation that the builder installed when we built the house last year. I'm unfamiliar with this product. Is it meant to be used behind my framing or should I take it out and use something else. I would love to use it since I already have it.


texts: Construction defect in basement slab under stairs in crawl space-how do I fix this issue

texts:
"The winter is coming" , so I started bringing in the items that are not supposed to stay outside during the cold season. Today I removed some materials that where sitting in the crawl space under the stairs to the basement and to my surprise I discovered the below

Here is a general view of the area with the issues detailed below

 It appears that the builder left an opening in the floor slab when they poured the concrete and then it was masked it with a 2x4 and some more cement added in place but not everywhere. The opening goes along the line marked in the schematic representation at the end of the post, it is like a quarter of an inch wide.
The white matter that you see there is dust from the drywall that deposited on the floor in that area as the time passed, not sure why.

This is a zoom in for ❶

❷ is where you can see that the opening was left there, it is not a crack. It rather seems to be a construction error or defect that was covered up

This is a zoom in for ❸, here you can see that the cover up is cracked

❹ is there just to indicate a spot where you can see that the wood was stained or oiled with something, that is not mold

Here is how it is built. As you can see they put two 2x4 on top of each other.
I guess I will have to use adjustable posts to support the floor while I am removing those vertical and horizontal 2x4.

My question is more about the floor, what would be the procedure to clean the place and pour concrete there an make sure it does not crack again
Update: I would alos consider suggestions regarding ways to just clean and seal the cavity with some foam or other materials, I do not insist to pour concrete there


texts: Wire size for emergency generator and 200 amp ats switch

texts: I have approximately 85 ft run between emergency generator and ats switch. 5 ft buried, then up exterior wall then through attic then down exterior wall to ats panel. I intend to use #1 awg 3 conductor SER with ground but not sure of the rated heat and if #1awg is correct.


texts: mixing a little dish soap and water into your compound

texts: I was reading a tread about how little air holes appear in drywall mud. There were multiple suggestions of adding a little ivory soap and water to drywall mud to make it as smooth as a baby's butt. How much soap to water to mud would all you pros out there recommend?


texts: Will treating the edges of laminate parquet flooring with teak oil improve water resistance?

texts:
Recently, I bought laminate wood parquet flooring (8mm) with an HDF core for my apartment.  I intend to use this throughout the entire apartment, excluding bathrooms but including kitchen.  It is not rated as waterproof. The shop I bought it from told me that water issues of the parquet always comes from water seeping through the grooves between each plank and through the locking mechanism and reaching the HDF core.  To help with increasing the water resistance of the floor, he told me that I can treat the locking mechanism with teak oil.

I talked with my installer, and he said that has never done this or heard of it.  I got a bit confused.  It is a bit of an extra effort to paint each and every plank with teak oil, and I would like to know if it makes sense.  I've tried googling it, but did not find any definitive answer.

I've highlighted in orange the image below, to show where the shop told me to treat with teak oil.

Any ideas if it does help to treat with teak oil?  Are there any issues about doing this?  I'm also concerned that the floor might be stuck together, and cannot be taken apart easily if I need to change some of it.


texts: Why only a few volts between the legs of a 240 V 3-wire dryer outlet?

texts:
I installed a new dryer in our house.  It runs but won't heat.  It has a 240V 3 wire connection.  There is a 30 amp double pole breaker installed in the breaker box. (the box is very old)  I've read that you should get 120V from each leg to the neutral which I do.  I also read that you should get 240V across the two.  Only a few volts register on the meter, not 240.
How is this possible and what changes should I make to correct this?


texts: What is this vertical metal pipe in my backyard? old well? septic?

texts:
Purchased this house last week and the previous owners also did not know what it was. The pipe is heavy duty and set in concrete. There's water about halfway up the length of the pipe, but I haven't tested the depth.

UPDATE: it was definitely an early generation giant satellite dish. Not only did we find 2 buried coax cables running towards the house when we removed it, I've since spotted several other such remnant poles in backyards across town.


texts:
I have a closet that is colder than it should be - it is 2 degrees colder than the bedroom it's connected to.  The closet is 4'x4', and has two exterior walls.  The bedroom is 10'x10', with one exterior wall.  I believe I need to improve the insulation in this closet.  Aside from a flush mount light fixture, the only other penetration to the drywall is a Low voltage ring for network cabling - the topic of this post.

The cable is run from the attic, through the top plate of the wall.  I plan on going into the attic and putting some spray foam around the hole in the top plate.  Would it be beneficial, in addition to this, to add some insulation inside the low voltage ring?  If so - how would I go about this?  Is there a product already made for this?

Thanks!


texts: Install a hardened glass in front of chimney

texts:
There is a chimney like this:

I have ordered a hardened glass with four holes to be installed in front of chimney with dimensions like this:

There is a 2 cm empty space below glass to allow fresh air in.

I designed the dimensions in a way that the four glass holes would be between the bricks.

The problem is I'm not sure what's the best approach to attach the glass to wall through the holes. I prefer the glass to be easily removed and put back in place. Any idea is welcome.

The North-East glass hole is like this:


texts: How should I repair this splintered wood. The splinter is on the back of the lid on a wooden box/chest. Thanks!!!


texts: The pressure relief valve on the hydronic system boiler is releasing a little water every time the boiler cycle is almost done and I looked at the gage and its rising to about 30 psi, But I can't figure why the temp is always rising.   I already changed the expension tank and TPR so whats now?


texts:
I live in north Atlanta, GA.
The boards behind the tile at my bathtub are wet and need replacement.
The old construction used a green board on top of the drywall (both are wet and in bad condition).
I'm going to remove both and use only one level of boards.
Is it OK to use a green board with Redgard (as a water proofing membrane) instead of cement backer board?
What kind of Adhesive/cement should I use. At Lowes, they gave me MAPEI Type 1 to use but the Floor and Decor department told me not to use it as it will allow the tile drop after a while because of the water.
I'm not looking for a life time solution.
My reasons for using green board:

Easier to use,to cut and handle for me.
I already have the mesh drywall tape and the dry wall screws.
cheaper.
the James Hardi backer is 0.42" which will not level with drywall in the sides (0.5")


texts: How can I install an interior cat door to the basement and not have it kill me? (from increased radon)

texts:
I recently purchased and moved into a new house with an unfinished basement under part of house and crawl space under the rest.  We have 2 indoor cats and I would prefer that their litter box be in the basement.  There is access to the basement from in the house and from outside.  I'd like to put a cat door on that internal door to allow them free access down to the basement, but I'd like to make sure I'm not going to increase radon levels in the main floor of the house.  I believe radon is too heavy for this to be much of an issue since the door would be at the level of the main floor of the house, but better safe than sorry.

Notes:

We do have a radon mitigation system
A radon test on the main floor of the house passed before we bought the house (meaning the radon system is working), but we did not test levels in the basement/crawl space
The door is a fairly standard inside room door

Questions:

Is there a particular type of cat door that would be best for this situation?
Is there anything else I should do or consider before, or during, installation to reduce the risk of increased radon?


texts: Metal door frame; the screwholes holding the strike plates are stripped out. What to do?

texts: As the title states, the screw holes in my metal door frame are stripped out and do not hold the screws for my strike plates.  The door is a finely made iron and glass door (heavy), but the metal for the frame is fairly thin.  I thought about doing a helicoil, but I think the metal may still be too thin to hold a good coil.  Any ideas on a solution that will look good (this is my entry door)?  Thanks!


texts: Why would the receptacles in the kitchen not have power after replacing one of them?

texts:
I replaced a receptacle, and made sure the wires were in the same order they were originally in when I hooked them back up. I turned power back on and there was no power to the receptacle I changed, or to three other receptacles. None of my breakers were tripped. I reset all of the circuit breakers just to make sure, and I still have no power in the affected receptacles.

Can you think of what could be the problem?


texts: How to install artificial turf on a fiberglass rooftop deck?

texts: I want to install some artificial turf on my rooftop patio deck. I have seen this sort of installation in several other homes and it looks awesome; it also appears to be installed in place (ie, not just rolled out). Most of things I find online regarding installation explain the process for wooden decks, or lawns, but not fiberglass rooftop patios. Is it really just as easy as buying artificial turf and rolling it out? Or is there an adhesive? Is that safe to put on fiberglass? What is the process?


texts: Electrical: Can 20 amp breaker with AWG 14 gauge wire cause tools in garage to not run?

texts:
The wiring to my garage is a single 20 amp breaker wired with AWG 14 gauge wire. When I turn on my table saw, it starts up but the reset button pops and the lights flicker. I have attached the saw to the first outlet coming into the garage to shorten the distance from the box, but I am seeing no difference.

Is the wire under powered for the 20 amp breaker?


texts: How can I replace the top two wood panels in my front door with glass?

texts:
I'd like to replace the top two wood panels in my front door with glass for more light.

Is there a how-to site explaining how this is done?


texts: Hampton bay ceiling fan, 4 lights and only 1 works

texts: Power went out in my house and when it came back on the ceiling fan lights were out. I replaced the bulb and it did not work, I put the new bulb in a different fixture and it worked in this 1 but not the other 3 help


texts: Can a Sonoff Basic Switch be connected between a wall switch and a light?

texts:
Newbie here from India.

I was wondering if a Sonoff Basic switch can be connected as given in the diagram below:

The "Light Switch on the Wall" stays always in the 'On' position. And the Sonoff switch disrupts the flow of electricity.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. I will be getting this connected by a qualified electrician.

Edit: Changed the diagram to better reflect how a switch works


texts:
My house has electric outlets in both orientations.  Which one is correct?  Should the ground hole be at the bottom or the top?

OR


texts:
Unfortunately I have a rather persistent rat problem in my crawlspace and I still haven't been able to resolve it.
I'm considering if it would be possible to pour a thin layer of concrete to stop rodent intrusion.
Can this be done for an existing crawlspace? I'm assuming the crawlspace vents would need to be knocked out and the concrete piped in. House is about 1k sqft.


texts: Wiring lights to a Garbage disposal circuit

texts: Can I wire recess lights to garbage disposal circuit, which has a dedicated 15A circuit


texts: What's the best option for cutting cement siding?

texts:
I bought some of James Hardie Trim made of fiber cement and I'm wondering what the best option is for cutting it is. Home Depot refuses to cut it because it ruins their saw blades.

Scoring this stuff on the back like you do the thin cement board isn't going to give me a clean cut. I saw they make 8 tooth carbide saw blades but don't want to fork over the cash if they don't last more than a few cuts. Was also thinking of trying the disposable fiber-reinforced abrasive wheels but this cement might chew that up pretty fast.

Any real comparative experience between these methods?


texts: Folding garden chair assembly...putting a stud in the wood

texts: I bough an wooden garden chair table set from a company called vidaXL. There is one step where a half threaded metal stud needs to be screwed in the wood. The other half of the stud is smooth and cylindrical which will move through the groove to facilitate folding of the chair. But the problem is that the other part of the stud is completely smooth and cylindrical with a rounded head (resembling half of a capsule) and no screw driver or wrench works to make it turn. I haven't tried an adjustable wrench but looks like it will not be enough as there will be enough contact surface. However, is there any better tool to turn it and screw that thing firmly into the wood?


texts: What would happen if I build a half bath without permits?

texts: What happens if we build a half bath in Minneapolis without getting permits for any of the work?  Specifically, if we intend to sell the home at some point in the coming years?


texts: Hot water line under my laundry tub leaking at the crimped joint just before it goes into the wall

texts: I am a senior woman living on a pension.  My hot water line to the laundry tub has been turned off for a year now because of a leak.  Three plumbers plus a new faucet later and I still have the issue.  Today the plumber told me that he would have to cut a hole in the drywall to fix the leak. He took this picture and told me to go to Home Depot and ask them for the part that he needs. Can someone help me because plumbers are definitely not cheap.


texts: Can I run Cat-6 in conduit with line-level power cables?

texts:
I am sitting on a beautiful and relatively new patio in my back yard. When installing the concrete patio, one electrical conduit was installed to run power out to the gazebo. This coming week it will be installed.
I’m thinking I would like to also run a Ethernet cable, too. I like the idea of a WiFi access point out here.
I know all the experts say don’t run low voltage and high voltage together because someone might run a nail or something into both, but we are talking conduit here, no nails will ever be a factor.
My main concern is RF shielding.  Will CAT6 give a good solid 1G connection, or do I need something better shielded?


texts: What is the difference between 'planed square edge' timber and 'planed all round'?

texts: I am buying timber to use a curtain batten, between the rail and the wall. So I want the edges to be flat. I see wood sold as 'planed all round' and 'planed square edge'. What's the difference? Which do I want for curtain batten?


texts: How to insulate flat part of attic ceiling?

texts:
I have a large (860 sq. ft.) attic that is uninsulated. I'm planning a project now to turn this into a TV room, so I'll need to insulate, run electrical, put up drywall, etc.

An insulation company will be insulation the roof slope behind the kneewalls, and I'll do the rest of the insulation, which will be the ceiling slope from the kneewall up to the collar ties, and the flat part of the ceiling. See attached sketch.

Code says the ceiling need to be R38. I have a plan for the slopes, which are 2x10s: fiberglass batts with 1" rigid board over it. (This won't get me up to R38 but I'm hoping it's close enough for the inspector.) But I'm not sure what I should do for the flat part of the ceiling--the collar ties are only 2x6s, so the R30 insulation won't fit within that space (it's thicker than 6"). But on the other hand, there will be plenty of space above that in the uninsulated top of the attic (which will be vented with gable vents). So can I just use those batts anyway, and have the insulation project above the collar ties? And can I lay additional batts on top to increase the R value? I don't want to come down any further into the attic living space (e.g., by adding rigid-board insulation under the drywall) because I want to maximize headroon.


texts: Plumbers putty - wrap the entire opening?

texts:
The pipe in my bathroom sink has 2 large openings that I was not expecting.

Should I use plumbers putty and wrap the entire open holes, or just use plumbers putty around the drain in the sink?


texts: Are products like redguard fit for use as a waterproofing membrane for shower pans or floor applications?

texts:
Given that you pour your own pan - lets not worry about the exact material but obviously it would be porous.  Can you use a "waterproofing paint" to create your pan without any other waterproofing membrane?

This question Building on top of 3/4'' plywood subfloor touches on the topic.  I have not personally done this but I am not sure I would be opposed to it.  Given that Kerdi is selling at like 50 times cost to make and it is a long process to install correctly... Do we have the technology now to paint on our waterproofing?  I am talking floor applications here.


texts: Should the transformer be hot when the furnace isnt running? replaced the transformer and it is hot to the touch but not hot enough to burn fingers..


texts:
I recently purchased a can of tinted polyurethane finish and applied it to the top of a desk. The desk had previously been finished but the old finish was cracked and coming off so I had stripped and sanded the top before this new finish coat. After the typically recommended two coats I realized that I had used GLOSS finish and now the top is all shiny and does not at all match the sheen of the sides and drawer fronts of the other parts of the desk.

So here is my question. If I purchase and apply a new coat of SATIN finish will that work OK over a the GLOSS finish?


texts: Does a router smooth edges significantly more than a jigsaw?

texts:
My first experiment with a jigsaw produced a nicely rounded shelf, but it's terribly rough. I am considering reducing the labor needed to properly sand it by getting another toy: a router. A nice side effect of using a router is that the top and bottom edges would not be so square and would be forgiving when someone bumps into them.

Would using a router (once for the top side, and another for the bottom) leave the edge sufficiently smooth so that a bit of hand buffing with 200-grit paper would suffice? Or would I be left with something that is even harder to work with because I would need to sand a round, rather than a semi-flat, edge?


texts: How can I verify that the ground wires in my outlet boxes are grounded properly?

texts: I am a non-professional with limited electrical experience. I recently bought a house built in the mid-fifties that has some two-prong receptacles (i.e., no ground hole).  I planned to replace the first outlet in the circuit with a gfci outlet, but when I turned off the power and removed the outlet from the box, I was surprised to find that the cable feeding it and the cable continuing to the next outlet are three-wire.  So my question is:  why would the person who did the original wiring not use a three-prong receptacle? How do I test to ensure the ground wire at the outlet box does in fact go to ground?


texts: Can I get 3 double pole breakers in my circuit breaker?

texts:
I am considering purchasing a inline water heater and having it installed (Eco 24). Before I do though I want to know for sure that it is possible to install with my current breaker box (the water heater is electric). It needs 3x40 dp breakers, and 100amp service.

I have 240v 100amp service and my breaker box is currently full(see below). There are two breakers that can be removed due to un-use. but the rest are needed.

Is it possible to use tandem breakers to gain enough space on the box to get the breakers I need?
Can my box/service support this addition?


texts: Help with ceiling fan wiring. Red black and white wires

texts: Over the weekend I started a project to install a ceiling fan and hook it up to 2 switches, 1 to control the light and 1 to control the fan. There was originally one switch controlling a light fixture. I ran a new line 12-3 from the ceiling to the electrical box. The power coming in to the box has a wire that is black, red and white. I cannot figure out how I am supposed to wire this to the switches so I can accomplish this project. Any ideas or diagrams would be great. Thank you so much. I have included 2 photos. One is of the original wiring that was at the switch and another with the power and the new 12-3 wire that I ran. Thank you so much for your help.


texts: Reconnecting 50 amp service to outbuilding

texts: I replaced a barn that had buried 50 amp service from the main house electrical. Before the old building was demoed, I removed the breaker box. I know it needs to be regrounded, as the old building was. That part is easy. What I need need to know is how to reconnect the breaker box removed from the old building to the wires safely. Three wires and a ground. Wire nuts aren’t going to cut it. How do you spice 1/4”+ solid copper wires?


texts:
I just poured my very first concrete project over the weekend and made what I think is a rookie mistake.  Somehow I have ghosting from the metal wire that I used as reinforcement.

As you can see here:

My question is, can I cover this up with a feather coat cement mix?  Home Depot sells a version called feather finish.

Would this cover it up or would the ghosting still show through?  Sorry if this is a novice question :/

Update: I bought the above feather finish finish HD but one or the workers there recommended that I wait until the concrete cures (28 days) before I apply it. Anyone k ow if that's needed?


texts: I have a Magic Chef in-wall oven, stove is separate by the way. The oven is gas. I was told it has no pilot light by some "help" person on another site.  Is there a pilot light on all gas ovens?  If so, where is it? Afraid to turn on knob to light along with a match.  lol


texts: Do I need an air admittance valve for my basement shower?

texts:
I've been trying to figure out why my water in my shower drain doesn't flow through the elbow. When I turn the elbow sideways the water flows correctly but sewer gasses emits out the empty elbow sideways.

Do I need to install a Air Admittance valve for this drainage problem? I have nowhere to run vent pipes in this location. If so, do I need 3 separate AAV's for toilet, shower and sink?


texts: Fire rated drywall for room next to garage?

texts:
The family room, which used to be just a back porch, has one wall against the enclosed garage. This room only has wood paneling, with some kind of insulation behind it, followed by some kind of wood paneling/sheathing on the garage side.
I read that drywall on a garage wall is supposed to be fire rated but I can't tell if that means on the garage interior only or if it also needs to be on the family room interior wall attached to the garage.


texts: How can I add a common wire to the existing furnace wiring?

texts:
My current furnace has Rh and W1 to the thermostat. I'd like to add a C for my new networked thermostat, but I'm not sure where to connect it.

From my research it sounds like I should be able to just connect a new wire to one of the sides of the transformer, but I have this unfounded feeling that it might be more appropriate to connect to the zone valve where the transformer, aquastat, and thermostat come together currently (terminal 1 on the valve is W1, terminal 2 is white from the transformer and white from the aquastat, terminal 3 is aquastat red, and Rh is joined to transformer red).

So, can I add a Common wire for the new stat by connecting directly to one side of the transformer? Or joining one of the terminals of the zone valve?

For reference, the aquastat is a Honeywell L8124 C 1102 and the valve is Taco 555-102.

(I can post pictures of the valve, transformer, aquastat if it helps)


texts:
I've seen posts about going from a switch to a dimmer, but not the other way around.  I originally thought I could read those and do the opposite, but it seems that there are many ways houses can be wired, and my particular setup doesn't match anything else I have seen.

I currently have a Z-Wave dimmer switch installed.  It has two black wires coming out and one green.  The black wires are supposed to go to either line and load.

My new Z-Wave 2way switch has load, line, neutral, and ground.  I determined that load goes to my light, line goes to whatever is hot, and ground obviously goes to ground.  I figured out which was hot by turning off the circuit at the breaker, disconnecting the switch, then turning it back on again and measuring the voltage.  The black wire with the 120V is line, and the black wire without 120V must be the load.

Now my issue is with the neutral -- since it wasn't previously hooked up, there is a bundle of three wire wires in the box capped off.  The problem is that I don't have three entry points to the switch.  I could insert 2 of the 3 into the holes, and the strip some extra insulation off of the third and wrap it around the screw (and check to make sure the other two are still tight), or I could go get some solid core wire at the store and add a fourth white wire to the capped bundle, then run this fourth to the switch.

Ultimately, my question is, shouldn't all switches and outlets have a dedicated line back to the breaker box?  If neutrals are tied together in boxes, doesn't this mean that there could be two circuits are sharing the neutral?  And if this is the case, doesn't that mean that working in the box is inherently not safe if the other circuit is still live?  Also, does this mean that I cannot simply pull one the three white wires from the bundle and hook it up to the switch, since that would separate it from the other two, and there might not be a path back to the breaker box for one of the circuits?


texts: What is this dishwasher drain solenoid seal part & how can I replace it?

texts:
Our dishwasher (GE GSD3200G00WW) is leaking underneath whenever the drain process kicks in.  It looks like the seal between the drain solenoid and the drain itself has deteriorated and should be replaced.

Removed the drain solenoid:

This part (1/2 inch in diameter) (that is right against the drain around where the shaft comes out) popped right off:

And behind it you can see rotted rubber type material inset into the drain itself around the shaft:

which is almost certainly where the water is coming out.

In the videos I can find showing how to replace the drain solenoid, it shows this part already being in place, as if built into the drain itself, for example in this video  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZX9uP8UcPc#t=96 :

So -- what is this part called?  And, how can I replace it?  Can I just scrape out the remaining rubber from the drain around the shaft, and then pop the new part in?  Or is this so integrated with the drain that I'll need to fully remove the drain and pump and everything?


texts: Carrier Infinity System says "System Malfunction"

texts:
On this, the day temperatures reached 95, my AC stopped working. Here are the symptoms:

The thermostat says "Infinity System - System Malfunction Call Technician".
The condenser outside is spinning, but slowly, and only after I gave the unit a little nudge.
I poked around the thermostat for some error messages and found: "VC STANDBY VOLTS", "LOW PRESS SWITCH", but I'm not sure if these are current or relevant.

Since this is a heat wave during a long holiday weekend, I'm hoping to somehow fix this myself. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

If the answer ends up being that I need to replace one of the capacitors, could you direct me to how one finds out which one of the three in the picture is broken.


texts: Air Conditioner - water standing in condenser housing

texts:
After clearing out the overflow pipe, I still had a problem because water has started dripping in places not directly over the drain pan.
I "extended" the coverage with sheet metal, but the water is still dripping from somewhere that I can not yet see.  I looked inside the condenser housing (which is directly above the pan) and saw that water is standing there.
Is there supposed to be a drain hole somewhere on the bottom of this sheet metal housing?  (Water backing up in there might be getting deep enough to flow into the much larger distribution box where the ducts connect.)


texts: Acceptable to install whole-house evaporative cooler with only a single supply vent?

texts:
My new house has a 20+ year old evaporative cooler on top of the roof. The cooler is ancient and rusted, difficult to service due to the location, and the forced air heating ductwork it feeds into is undersized for the volume of air it pushes. I would like to replace the unit with a (surprisingly inexpensive) new, highly efficient evaporative cooler mounted at ground level that blows air straight through a wall. The cooler would sit in the shade and have a short, straight duct going right through an exterior wall and into the main living/dining/kitchen area.

My hope is due to the direct installation, I could get a very low level of static pressure and choose a small, energy-efficient 1/3 horsepower motor. However, I worry about this installation being able to serviceably cool the entire house (≈ 1100 sf) with all of the air coming through only a single supply vent.

I think I would be able to get adequate airflow into the bedrooms by opening bedroom windows but NOT opening windows in the living/dining/kitchen area, thereby forcing the flow through the main living area, down the hall, and out through the bedrooms.

Does this sound like it would work? Is there some kind of chart or formula for determining the required CFM of the blower given a static pressure value, a square footage, and/or (pipe dream) a house layout? Should I just get a bigger cooler or motor for some wiggle room and be done with it? I would prefer the more efficient, better designed approach. ;-)


texts:
I had a HVAC to came out said he put in 11 pounds it took 5 minutes. And he was smoking a cigarette sitting on the Unit while he was putting it in. I paid 1045.00

He also said he replace the evaporator which AHS paid for. Did I get ripped off? Sure feels like it.


texts: Weatherstripping for inswing exterior door with clearance problems. Clearance door sweep?

texts:
How would you weatherstrip this gap under an inswing exterior door?  The door threshold is not very high, and the door already drags a bit on the interior carpet, so many styles of door threshold are out.

The gap ranges from 1/4" to 1/2", and is curved over the threshold width.  Light is clearly visible under the gap.

A bottom threshold is possible, but Pemko #250V for example is way too high to fit (and as an extruded part wicks cold right from the outside to the inside, defeating the purpose somewhat).

What are options here?


texts: Can I use the white from one switch, but the black from another?

texts:
Some terminology, because I don't know any better:

light-fixture  - An existing, separate, light fixture...currently with dedicated 14/2
vent-unit      - A new vent just installed, has three functions:
    vent-fan        - The fan component of the vent-unit
    vent-light      - The main light component of the vent-unit
    vent-nightlight - The nightlight component of the vent-unit

I just replaced an old bathroom vent with a new one that has a light, nightlight, and fan. The bathroom also has a separate light fixture. There are two switches to control them (one for the light-fixture, one for the vent-unit), and this means there are two 14/2 cables going up into the attic (one to the light-fixture, one to the vent-unit).

The electrical diagram for the vent-unit I bought indicates that the vent-light and the vent-nightlight are tied to the same white, internally. There is a separate white for the vent-fan. The easiest way to get the vent-unit hooked up would be to tie all the blacks (one each for vent-light, vent-nightlight, and vent-fan) to the black of the incoming 14/2, and both whites (one goes to the vent-fan, and one shared between the vent-light and vent-nightlight) to the incoming white. This means that the vent-unit switch would control all three functions of the vent.

What I WANT is for one switch to control the light-fixture, vent-light, and vent-fan...and for the other switch to control the vent-nightlight. I specifically want the vent-fan to come on anytime a real light is turned on, and I specifically want the vent-nightlight to be controlled separately (since I will usually want it on regardless).

This means one switch would control lights/fan, and one switch would control vent-nightlight.

What this boils down to

My first reaction is to run the "nightlight" switch black to the vent-nightlight black, but the "lights/fan" switch white to the vent-nightlight white (since the vent-nightlight white is shared, internally, with the vent-light). Would this work? Would the fire department become unwittingly involved several hours later?

EDIT

Another idea, is it safe to run the whites from BOTH switches to one termination? Could I run the "nightlight" switch black to the vent-nightlight black, the "nightlight" switch white to the vent-nightlight, AND the "lights/fan" switch white to the vent-nightlight white?

EDIT 2

Here's an ugly picture of the situation. What I WANT is for one switch to control the vent-nightlight, and the other switch to control everything else.

The weird box thing at the bottom of the pictures is supposed to be a two-gang light switch.


texts: Can I paint the cement under the fireplace hearth?

texts:
I recently had a fireplace installed. The floor wasn't level so there is a wedge of cement exposed below.

Click for larger view

The installer says I should conceal it with wooden beading but personally I hate the stuff, so I was wondering if I could just paint the cement?
Would I need to prepare it with something to stop it cracking first?
What paint would I use?

Any other ideas?


texts:
Today, I found my home has a gutter install as below:

My question is:

The hanger screw has penetrate through the metal drip edge and gutter the fascia (cover), is it right? I am thinking it should go below the metal drip edge to avid damage meta drip edge.
The gutter installed almost above the fascia board, reach to the meta drip edge already. I am thinking water will leak out to fascia board later if gutter has been clogged.
The fascia has covered almost the whole fascia board, Is it good for fascia board protection? or if it should run below the gutter hanger screw?

Is it right now? if not, how should I fix it?


texts: Fixing broken fence posts with Simpson Strong-Tie E-Z Mender and concrete

texts:
With a recent wind storm, most of backyard fence fell over in the adjoining school yard. The fence posts were set in dirt I believe and snapped; we didn't build the fence...

In the past, I have used a product like the Simpson Strong-Tie E-Z Spike. It's not cheap nor easy to drive in. I was considering using the E-Z Mender instead and pouring in some fast setting concrete as well to a depth about 18-24" around each broken post. I'm look at about a $200 repair in materials alone for five posts, so I am a bit cautious at doing this.

I am open to alternative suggestions.


texts: My bed is right up against a window. I prefer to lean against something and sit in bed while working. Is it safe for me to lean against a closed glass window? Is there any way I could fashion something that would put less stress on the window?


texts: Do I need to replace attic insulation directly against new framing for a bath fan?

texts: I have to temporarily remove insulation to install a new bath fan.  The installation will require installing some 2X4 framing to hold the new fan in place. Is it enough to simply fold the insulation down over the new frame work, do I need to cut pieces of insulation to fit each space?


texts: How can I convert from an overhead door to a man door?

texts:
A property I purchased has a detached and pretty solid detached garage in the back on a raised cement foundation. It has running electricity and I have no need for it, so I'm considering turning it into an office space for myself.

The door is slides upward like a garage door, though I'd like a doorway a bit simpler for my office and I'm not sure how to convert this into something more practical... assuming I can at an affordable price.

The picture doesn't show it well, but it's very spacious reaching back a good 30 feet.


texts: How can I block off scorching sunlight from coming through my windows?

texts:
Somehow, the window of my room faces directly at the scorching beams of the sun all year long. The local weather here is humid, and the heat from the sun coming in from the windows makes the room almost unbearable to live in during mid-afternoons.

I could roll down the blinds, shut the windows and turn up the fans, but the heat still gets radiated through the walls into the room. And rolling down the blinds and closing the windows make the room dark and stuffy. The heat is really bad, so bad that often, low-quality rubbery textured materials in my room could sometimes feel sticky, like they were turning molten under the influence of the intense room temperature.

What are some techniques people use in their rooms to shade windows from scotching sunlight and to keep the room temperature cool without turning on an air-conditional the whole day?


texts: I have 2 windows in my kitchen, would it be crazy to remove one?

texts:
Redesigning our kitchen and want to remove the stove from the island (G shape) Fridge is built-in on interior wall. Sink/dishwasher is on the far wall facing the front of the house and on the other exterior wall is an ill positioned window that would otherwise make that side of the kitchen perfect for the stove.

The dining area is behind the kitchen island (open concept) and we have a large bay window bringing in abundant light.

So, is it crazy to remove a window and replace with wall so that we can put our stove in that spot?


texts: Front of range top gets extremely hot when using oven. Oven door gasket has already been replaced.


texts: What would cause mortar to have a patchy finish?

texts:
I started a re-pointing project in my basement, but it was way more work than I had anticipated, so I haven't continued in about six months.  However, now that i'm looking at mortar I originally tucked, it appears to be patchy, as if some of the lime is bleeding to the surface.

(the bright white color is from the previous person's attempt to fix the cracks with what I believe to be cement that was too hard.)
What is actually happening? and why?  If it should be avoided, how can I do so?


texts:
We bought a new house in the UK in 2011.  Most of the lighting is GU10 LED bulbs although a couple of rooms have GU10 halgens, which I'm happily replacing with LEDs as they burn out.

A couple of the already-installed LEDs have now gone as well.  When I've tried to replace them, the GU10 socket has a plastic cage attached (see picture, with replacement bulb).  This means the bulbs I've been buying don't fit, as they are slightly shorter than the existing LEDs, and the rim of the bulb stops the contacts from engaging with the socket.

I haven't been able to find replacement bulbs that fit (I've bought Philips Master LEDspot MVs) and I can't see how the cage can be removed without unwiring the socket completely.

Any ideas for how I can fit a new bulb, or even what the purpose of the cage is, would be appreciated.


texts: Is detergent tank necessary for pressure washer?

texts:
Why do some pressure washers come with a detergent tank, and others do not?  If a pressure washer does not have a detergent tank, does that mean you cannot use soap/detergent with it, only water?
For example:
https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product-comparison/?model%5B%5D=100384&model%5B%5D=100385
In the above link, the more expensive model says it has NO detergent tank.  Does that mean there is no way to use it with detergent?
The less expensive model says it has 2 detergent tanks.  Why two?  What is the second one for?
Much obliged for any insights into this.  Thanks.


texts: Selling house, and want to put in the easiest lowest cost patio in backyard

texts:
Putting the house on the market soon, and the back door steps currently step right down to the lawn. I would like to put a patio-like landing area there, maybe 10'x 10'.

Approach: I'm considering applying herbicide, then a barrier cloth, then pebbles with a raised border, maybe wood to keep them in place. I don't know if the pebbles should go on a sand layer. I hope I don't have to dig 4 inches down or anything complex. The drainage in the area has been good. Over the last 10 years living here, this area doesn't flood, and drains away from the house well (but there's no mounded slope-- or let's say the slope is gradual). The grass is fairly thick the further out from the house, but turns to moss up close to the house on one side of house, and the other side has some bare patches.

What's are the pitfalls with this idea? I"m very open to better ideas, so long as they are not labor intensive, and the cost is pretty low. And the final product looks nicer than what we've got.


texts: My kitchen sink water pressure is lower than rest of house even when I remove the faucet head. (a Brizo single pull-down faucet). When I remove the hose from the valve and turn on the valve into a bucket under the sink the pressure is good. Could I have a bad hose or check-valve?


texts: Neither myself nor a large group of people on a community chat can figure out what this tool is called or used for. It’s triangular with a thick solid 3 legged base, multiple flat wired blades (possibly blades), has a handle, and the rear legs are slightly higher than the front leg. We’ve had guesses (some of them hilarious) of everything from a cheese slicer, soap making tool, pastry cutter, blind cleaner, harvesting tool, to iron holder. It’s none of those. Someone must know!


texts: Resolving strange dual switch configuration

texts:
I've been trying to sort out some strange wiring of a couple switches in my home and I could use some help. I have two switches SW1 and SW2 that control two light fixtures L1 and L2.
SW1 turns L1 on and off. SW2 turns L2 on and off. However, SW2 only functions if SW1 (and L1) are off.
At first I assumed that SW1 was a four way switch with one of the paths wired in series with SW2 for some reason. It turns out that is not the case and SW1 is just a single pole switch, but with two pairs of wires connected to each end (one via backstab, one via screw terminal).
Of these four wires from SW1, I can confirm that if the two white are connected and the two black are connected (corresponding to SW1 being off), then L1 is off and SW2 correctly operates L2.
If I connect all four wires (corresponding to SW1 being on), then L1 is on and L2 is off with SW2 having no effect.
My goal is to allow SW1 to control L1 and SW2 to control L2 completely independently from each other. I'm a little flummoxed as to how things must be connected to make it operate as-is. I'm trying to avoid purchasing a continuity tester, so I'm not currently able to trace what is going on inside the walls.
Edit: Forgot to mention that SW2 is also a dimmer (something like this).
Edit 2: Photos below.
SW1
This first photo is where SW1 was located although I removed it while I was trying to diagnose what was going on. The bottom two wires were connected via the backstabs in the switch while the top two wires were connected to the screw terminals. The second switch on the right in this photo is not SW2, but an unrelated switch for another light that does not appear to have any effect on L1 or L2. I'll note that the bottom two wires appear to be going to the box where SW2 is located and the top two wires appear to be going in the direction of L1/L2.

SW 2
This second photo is SW2 which is located to the right of SW1.

Edit 3:
The leads on my multimeter were in fact long enough to do some continuity tests. The black wire on the bottom in the SW1 photo is the left wire in the SW2 photo. The white wire at the bottom of the SW1 photo is one of the pair of white wires in the SW2 photo.
Edit 4:
I recalled that I have a non-contact voltage tester. Of the four wires for SW1, only the upper black wire (as per the photo) is live.


texts: What should I do about an electrical service panel that is next to the gas service meter?

texts:
I have to upgrade my electrical service panel from knob & tube to current grounded code. The house is on bedrock and ground is the water pipe entry in the garage more than thirty feet away. Now it appears the service panel may need to be relocated due to the proximity of the gas service meter. The house was built in 1956, in San Mateo County, California.

What should I do about this situation?


texts: Ceiling fan light comes on/stays on - NON remote

texts: I have a Hunter ceiling fan where the light "magically" comes on -- the pull switch has no effect. If I take the 3 screws out and drop the light fixture, the light goes out. (sounds like ground?) I futz with the wires and put it back together which makes it behave for a couple months then, voila! It comes back on. Any ideas?


texts: I am working with a CFL that requires a ballast to fire the lamp. This lamp is a G24Q-2. The lamp has four pins on the base. I am assuming that two of the pins are for the ballast connection and the other two are for constant line voltage. Is there a way to tell which pins are for which connection?


texts:
I have a dryer that is not drying properly. You have to run the load 3-4 times to get it dry. Here are some things I have checked:

It is heating up properly
The vents are clean (from the vent trap, through the dryer, all the way to the exit of the house)
Made sure I could feel a decent amount of air coming out of house
It is spinning properly
Set it to timer mode (80 minutes) to ensure it was not a moisture sensor

Everything I am finding online is one of these problems, but I can't find anything beyond that. I also changed the timer switch on the unit a while back, not sure if it was the same time this issue started, but considering I tried both the auto-dry and timed mode - it shouldn't be the timer switch - right?

Make: GE
Model: GTDX100EM1WW
Power source: Electric 220v

Got any other ideas?


texts: If I have 6 outlets outside near a pond do they all need to be gfci protected or can the first one be gfci and the rest just water resistant ?


texts: Is there a good way to hunt down AFCI receptacle nuisance tripping causes?

texts:
So a few weeks after I installed a Leviton AFCI receptacle (NOT a breaker), per this question, I am finding that the receptacle constantly trips at random, usually once or twice a week.  Some characteristics of the branch circuit and receptacle:

Leviton model # is AFTR1-W.
It's the first receptacle downstream of the circuit breaker in the load center.
Load center is a Square-D QO.
The breaker protecting this branch circuit is a two-pole breaker.
NOT a shared neutral, I think.  Both branch circuits serviced by the breaker have two different 14/2 romex strands running out, and both neutrals are connected directly to the neutral busbar.

So far, I've pinned it down to tripping only when my living room/dining room ceiling fans are running (lights on or off), kitchen light on, and the outdoor light is on.  All four were replaced by me when I bought the house, and I've already re-wired the kitchen light, since several trips happened when it was on.  I'll add, the kitchen light is a traditional fluorescent, and uses two T32 4ft bulbs, consuming 64W of power.  The ceiling fans use two CFL bulbs, 13W each, and the outdoor light is also CFL.

I figure it's gotta be a shoddy wiring job I did on one of them, and my next target to re-wire is the outside light, since that and the living room ceiling fan were the first things I wired in (and my wiring skills have gotten better since then).

What I am curious about is if there are any better ways to troubleshoot nuisance tripping on AFCI breakers/receptacles.  I know the receptacle is a fairly new thing, so it might be quirky a bit, but I am not sure.  Or should I just re-wire one device at a time and continue to observe if the problems keeps occurring?

I have read that fluorescent lights (like my kitchen light) can sometimes trip an AFCI breaker.  Don't know how different or more/less sensitive a receptacle version might be.  Is there a way to guard against a fluoescent fixture tripping an AFCI?


texts: Portable Air Conditioners: Is amperage a better measure of cooling power than BTUs?

texts:
Many non-brand name portable air conditioners have a lower amperage rating but a higher BTU rating. This doesn't make sense, how could a non-brand name portable air conditioner output 50% more cooling power and use almost the same amount of power as a brand name model?

For example, a LG Model # LP0817WSR portable air conditioner has a BTU rating of 8,000 and pulls 9.2 amps. A Whynter Model # ARC-12S portable air conditioner has a BTU rating of 12,000 and pulls only 9.5 amps.

Is it common for manufacturers to overstate BTUs? Is going by amperage better than going by BTUs?

I currently have the LG model stated above and can get the bedroom down to about 68 F when the central air is set to 78 F on a 100 F day. Would the 12,000 be able to take it down to 61 F? The room is only 140 square feet and has 3 older windows.


texts: What can I do about an old steam baseboard heating valve that wont turn?

texts:
It is currently the fall. It is cool outside but is like a sauna inside due to the heaters in my apartment. I have complained about this issue repeatedly to the building super and office. They said they would get the heating guy to come but it has been nearly 2 weeks.

The super came in and said I can turn off the heat via a valve in my bedroom. However, when he tried, he could not turn the valve. I tried with a pair of vice grips, and even though I am fairly strong, I was not able to even budge it.

It looks like it is very old and has been painted over. This is an old building. I tried scraping off the paint and that accomplished nothing. Still wont budge.

My question is - how do I fix this so that it will turn off? It is 4 AM and I am exhausted but can not sleep because, despite having the windows wide open and fans on, I am sweating profusely. Also, right near where the valve is, I can hear water trickling inside the pipes, and it is quite loud.

Here are images of the valve I took:

Click for larger image

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: What mix of cement and sand should I use to set cap slabs?

texts:
We have a number of "slabs" that are just wider than a brick, which are set on top of walls in the garden. A number of them have come lose and I need to remove the cement mix that used to hold them down and set them again.

What mix of cement and sand should I use, and are there other things I should mix in to ensure the mortar has a good "grip" on the stone that sits on top of the wall?


texts: How much should it cost to add a circuit breaker?

texts:
In this question, I asked about problems between my circuit breaker for a circuit shared by my microwave and sump pump. The conclusion was that another circuit should be added to support the microwave on its own. I have open spots for breakers in the box. Assuming I have an electrician do this job, how much should I expect it to cost? If location is a variable, I'm in central Maryland.

Note that the new circuit could be added to support only the sump-pump in an unfinished basement. So my thinking is that it should be one of the easiest additions possible.


texts: Wiring a new IKEA light into old ceiling junction

texts:
I moved into this apartment and there were no ceiling lights so I bought a standard ceiling lamp from IKEA but I am sure how to connect it.
I have 2 Black wires and 1 yellow wire and the light is connected to a 2 way switch one is near the main door and other one is in same area as the light.
The light i got from IKEA have just 2 wires (L) and (N).
I dont know which one is live or which one is neutral as I havent tested it.
I also want to mention that the building is not too old its like 10 years old and is in UAE, Dubai.


texts: How should I support a stone mantel on a brick fireplace?

texts:
Planning to use a slab of limestone, 4" high by 8" deep by 5' long, as a floating mantel shelf for a fireplace remodel.  The existing fireplace is red (Chicago) brick.

I'm resurfacing with ledgestone overlay.  I removed the cheap floating mantel (wood) and plan to hang this limestone.  My question is how I should hang it.

I originally planned to use some size of rebar as dowels epoxied into predrilled holes in the brick and the back of the limestone slab.  While rebar is strong it tension, I fear pullout or bending that would allow the slab to eventually slip off the supports.

Now I am considering using lag bolts into the brick, cutting off the heads and epoxying into predrilled holes in the slab.  Any thoughts on this, or the size of lags, or completely different method for attachment?


texts: Trying to wire switch outlet combo to existing two outlet. But the outlets each have 3 wires

texts:
I have 2 outlets, I want to replace with switch outlet combo (outlet always hot).

But looking online, I keep seeing everything has only one white neutral, but in my case, both outlets have a black hot and white neutral wire along with the grounds twisted together.  In other words, each outlet has its own romex cable with 3 wires.

Am I not able to replace this outlet with a switch combo because it has 2 neutrals?

This is confusing me.  Thanks.


texts: What materials do I need to install pantry shelving?

texts:
I'm installing shelving in my 5x5 kitchen pantry.  My plan is to run 1x2 strapping on the back edge and left/right sides of each shelf, then use 1x12 boards as shelves.  I'm considering poplar for the shelving materials.

I'm wondering if the side/back support will be sufficient or if I'll need a brace in the middle.  We don't plan on putting too much weight on the shelves but I'd rather do the project once than have to come back to it later.


texts: Adding a connection to a sewage ejector tank

texts:
In my basement I have a sewage ejector tank that looks like this:

One connection is the vent and the other is the discharge (mine does not have the third hole you see in the foreground).

What I would like to do is to add a wet bar almost directly above this tank. I talked to the building inspector who issued my building permit and he suggested to install another connection in the top of the tank using some kind of gas tight compression fitting similar to the ones that are already there (screw on each side with a rubber gasket seal). He said that he's seen them quite often and he has no problem with them.

I've been searching for weeks trying to find one of these connections, and I can't seem to locate one locally or online.

What I am looking for is a suggestion for a gas-tight compression fitting that I could install in the top of the tank.


texts:
I have a 90s GE filter flo heavy capacity top loader washing machine that has started to make squeaky noises during the agitation. It's 27 inches wide and 24 inches in depth.

I'm looking to replace it with another top load machine. The ones I found online are at least 26 inches in depth. My laundry closet is only 29 inches deep. Is 3 inches behind enough for clearance? The old machine has 5 inches behind. What is the minimum size required? I see some front loaders that are 24-25 inches deep but the capacity of those machines are very small.


texts:
I disconnected my automatic garage door opener and I can see when closing the door manually, and it's almost at the bottom, the remaining panel gets stuck and it won't fully close. There is no visible barrier in the tracks or anywhere. However, I can't fully see the springs in this position. I'm not sure if the springs are the problem because I can open and close it fine up to that position.  It's been working fine until today when I found one of the bottom wheels was displaced. I put it back in and it's still not fully closing.

Any idea what might be wrong?

Update:


texts:
When I try to add a light kit to my ceiling fan the light seems to short. It is a separate circuit and I checked the wires for the light and they are 120v not 240 I thought maybe I was wiring two hots into the light. I can not seem to figure out what is going on.

I think it uses its own hot from the light switch in the wall but the neutral off the fan. Does this sound correct?

Thanks


texts:
I have a Kenmore laundry center model 41798702891. It would not start and after some checking I found that the thermal limiter fuse was blown. I replaced it and tryed another load only to have it blow within a few min. I have since replaced the dryer operating thermostat, dryer high limit thermostat and dryer timer. It still is blowing the thermal limiter fuse.... I don't know what else to do! Have checked the vent (only 16" long) and fan.
Thanks,
Jim


texts: How do I slope a patio toward one of its corners?

texts:
I have a rectangular patio which I would like to drain toward one of its corners. Is there any subtlety that the installer needs to know in order to create a proper grade for this? Do you need to install your pavers in a specific way?

I have seen this a lot done in Downtown Toronto where pavers where installed on walk ways and the walkway was installed to allow disabled people to go on or off the walkway with their carts. I have also seen it in large areas around buildings that where built on slopes

I need to do something less complicated than the above, something like in the picture below.


texts: How many concrete piers do I need to support a tiny house (12x28 and 20feet high)

texts:
I need help, I am building a tiny house, I am not sure how many concrete piers do I need for a 12x28 tiny house and that will be max of 20 ft high
thank you!


texts: How do I stop my vacuum belt from making a noise and smelling when using it?

texts:
Last week I had my Hover WindTunnel Max Multi-Cyclonic (Model # UH70601) vacuuming carpet on the bar floor setting. It started making a thwapping noise and smells like burned rubber when vacuuming with the brushroll on.

I opened up the bottom of the vacuum. When I remove the belt the vacuum doesn't make the noise. Looking at the belt and what is holding it in I don't understand why it is making the noise.


texts: Is it okay to use two 20x20 air filters instead of one 36x20 for my home AC?

texts: I am replacing the air filter for the first time. I came to find out the person before just used two filters that were size 20x20 and overlapped them. The size of the actual duct is 36x20. The 36x20 are super expensive, so I was thinking of doing what the other guy did, but I read somewhere that air might escape through if there are holes. What should I do?


texts: I just bought a new LED lamp and, when I turn it on, it slowly turns off in a few seconds. Why does it so that? Is there a way to fix it?


texts: Trying to wire a new light fixture in the bathroom - what is going on with these wires?

texts:
In my bathroom, I currently have: one electrical outlet, one light fixture, and one fan. There are two switches at a 2-gang box (for the fan and the light). The fan is a simple fan without any other lights or speakers or anything.

I already set in the new light fixture and ran the wires through the attic. I am about to fish them down to the light switch box, planning to change it to a 3-gang and add a third switch.

But I found I don't quite understand the existing wiring. Specifically there is a red wire hooked to the fan's circuit in a way that is confusing to me. To accomplish my task, I was just going to wire a new switch to connect to the hot "line in" as well as the light, with the white return from the light going to the rest of the whites. But I wanted to make sure I understand the rest of the wiring.

Here's are diagrams: 1) what I observed in the box, and 2) what I infer is going on as well as my question regarding the wiring.


texts: can I put 3 new light fixtures and switches on the same breaker

texts: I have a person that wants to wire in four actually  light boxes for ceiling fans with switches and I need to know if I can run all four of them safely from one breaker and if so what kind of breaker? This question may be absurd but I just don't know the answer to it. I do home improvement work for a living at least I have the good sense ask a question before I even attempt something I don't know about.  needless to say I have not done a lot of expensive wiring I have put up plenty of ceiling fans and even ran one circuit very short distance in a garage from a breaker panel and I knew to have the proper testing equipment and to take my time and to ask questions if necessary and also most importantly to have the proper tools and some basic knowledge of how to use them.


texts: I have a light in the wash room that stays on when the switch is off and when I turn it on the light gets brighter. I took out the switch and it still stays on . Any suggestions?


texts: I have a Maytag Model mdbh949awb that stopped working without any indication that there was an issue. The cycle type (heavy, normal, light, rinse only) buttons on the left of the latch do not function but the heated dry, hi temp wash etc on the right are working. I checked the thermal fuse and door switches with my multimeter and they are passing a continuity test. When I looked at the ribbon from the LED's to the circuit board I noticed a small dark spot and I am wondering if that could be the issue, and if so, how I could test/fix it. I have attached pics of the cable and the door. I tried looking for a tech info booklet for this and I could not find it (i think the previous owner had the dw apart and lost it). I don't mind replacing the circuit board or the touch pad but I want to be certain of the dx before I spend the money. All LED's light up when I do the field test by pressing high temp wash + heated dry ~ 6x. Any assistance anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Preventing outside heat from hitting cabinets

texts: The front of my house faces west, so when the sun passes over the house, it heats up the front of the house quickly. I have kitchen cabinets and cupboards that are on that west wall. There are dishes in some and food and medicines in the others. How do I insulate the inside of the cabinets to prevent the heat of the day from getting to these cabinets?


texts: Protecting red brick patio from green moss

texts:
My other half has just finished laying a brick patio.  We're looking for some way to reduce or minimise the growth of green moss which makes these bricks really slippery, more-so in winter with increased shade and decreased daylight.

I have a half-tin of brick sealant left over from when these bricks were a wall (pre-quake, 7 years ago)

Name "Cemix Penetrating clear masonry sealer solvent based"
Description "low-viscosity silane-siloxane treatment which penetrates into the surface to produce a hydrophobic lining to the pores and capillaries"

Can I use this stinky solvent on our brick patio, or will it make the surface slipperier in the damp?

Slightly related to How do I remove moss from an outdoor brick walkway? but this is fresh and clean and we want to keep it that way as long as possible.


texts: Can I run a new circuit in the same conduit as ground cable?

texts:
I had a 100 A sub-panel installed in my garage. The electrician used an LB and conduit stub to bring the ground cable outside into the ground -- the cable is 4 AWG, stranded, in 1/2" schedule 80 PVC.

There is a shed about 10' from the garage -- I'd like to run a single circuit out there for a light and outlet (using direct burial cable -- ideally 12-3 for future-proofing, but could get by with 14-2 if needed). To get this cable from the garage panel out into the ground, can I run it through the same LB and conduit as the ground cable for the garage?
I'd prefer not to cut a second hole in the exterior wall of the garage if I can avoid it.


texts: Looking for a two way clamp two extend a pole

texts:
I'm looking for a clamp that can extend a 2" diameter pole with another pole.

Basically I'm trying to set up a Ubiquiti Litebeam but the pole I'm attaching it to isn't tall enough for line of sight to the other building.

What I want is something like this picture but the poles will be free standing in the air, not againt a wall.  Imagine that the one on the left is attached to the building and is sticking out of the roof.  I want to get another pole (the one on the right) to be clamped on (possible two clamps) to the pole sticking out of the roof.

What kind of clamp am I looking for?

EDIT: Here's an image of what I want, don't know what it's called.


texts: How to fix wobbly table/improve stability?

texts:
i want to fix my table so it doesn't wobbly sideway. it's a little annoying because when i move sligthly my monitor goes shaky because of the wobbly. i try to use using this "white thing" and it help to stabilize but, still need improvement.
thank you and if you have solution please give the picture to for example.
english is not my native languange sorry if there are mispelled word.


texts: Is there a way to get an oil stain off painted drywall?

texts:
Somehow oil or something got splashed on the painted drywall and now there are two stains present.  I was wondering what tips people have to attempt to remove the stain, or is the simple solution just a repaint job?

Salad/cooking oil of some kind.


texts: Can a High Pressure lockout be caused by a bad unit or problems with heat rejection system?

texts:
I have a couple of Trane Axiom High Efficiency Console Water Source Heat Pumps which stop working with what seems to be a high pressure lockout.
i.e. the compressor comes on, runs for a few seconds, pressure switch trips, and then the unit shuts off.

After bleeding a lot of air from the water pipes, the units operated for a little while, but this time cooling was periodically suspended due to high water temperature.

Hours later, both units seem to be suffering from the same original issues again (pressure switch tripping). They were installed around the same time (2003).  There is also a gurgling sound from the water pipes when the units are not running, which I guess is from air bubbling through.

One explanation is that this could all be due to air in the water or low water pipe flow.
Another could be that it is due to an old unit, which will effectively require  replacement.

Is there a way to decide between the two options, other than replacing the unit and seeing it continue to fail?


texts: Bleed radiators with no valve - is this valve near the boiler what I want?

texts:
I recently bought a house, and with the winter starting to set in (UK), have started putting the heating on in the mornings/ evenings.
As many people are at the moment, I am currently working from home - and have noticed that the radiator in my office doesn't work particularly well. It seems to get hot at the bottom, and in the pipe feeding it, but the middle to top of it remain cold. I assume that this means that there is air trapped in the system, and that it needs bleeding.
However, there doesn't appear to be a bleeding valve on the radiator, and having looked at the other radiators in the house, none of them appear to have any (though the other radiators all seem to work fine) - the house is an ex council-house (built in the 1970s):

I came across this question about how to bleed radiators which don't have a valve, and an answer on there suggests that "There is often an automatic bleeder/vent on or just after (in which case it's often on a big cast iron "air separator" that may have an expansion tank hung off its bottom) the boiler".
I had a look for this, but all I could see in the airing cupboard which looks like it might be the valve talked about, was this:

I'm a bit loathe to try loosening it until I'm sure it's what I want to be doing... Can anyone verify whether this is the bleeder referred to in the answer on the other question?


texts: Can I use 4 x 4 to extend the space from the wall with a tv mount?

texts: I have my 60" tv mounted on a tv mounted to the wall per the instructions.  However, I do not get enough swivel before the edge of the tv hits the wall.  So I want to attach two 4x4's from the ground up to about 6 inches higher than the top of the mount.  My plan is to attach the 4x4's to the studs in the wall and then attach the mount to the 4x4's.  And if I still need a little more space from the wall, I was going to use 2x6 across the two 4x4's and attach the mount to the 2x6's.  My guess would be that if the 4x4's are attached top, middle and bottom to the stud and with the 4x4's touching the floor, there should be no problem???


texts:
I'm not sure if this was ever asked here, but I've got a strange issue with my shower. It sounds weird, but I've been wanting to take cold showers lately to cut down on how much hot water I take up in the shower so others can enjoy showers. Honesly, I don't mind cold showers.

Here's the problem: My shower will always default to hot water. When I turn on the shower, it starts cold and then will start getting warmer until it's hot. I'm pretty sure it isn't my imagination because I've tried leaving it on for a while without touching the water (Of course, turning the lever enough to have it fully on, but not enough to get near the halfway mark) and it's been hot.

If you'd like to know more information about what kind of shower, let me know! I'm not the most advanced person when it comes to these kinds of things, but I'll try my best to specify! Thanks in advance!


texts: I've just moved into this house and there is no way to twist these two knobs. How do I shut off this towel heater?


texts: AC continues to run for several minutes after shutting off

texts:
When I turn off the AC it continues to blow cold air for several minutes. I realize this may be an energy savings feature, but I'd like to know if it is possible to disable it. In other words, what I'd like is for "Off" to be immediate off. I realize this is not something I may be able to do on my own, not really expecting to. I want to know if an HVAC technician would be able to modify this setting.

I apologize in advance, I have very little HVAC knowledge, but I am able to list the following installed components:

Carrier Split-System Condensing Unit - 38HDR
Carrier Gas Furnace - 58MCB
Nest Thermostat (Airwave is disabled)

Btw - I have the same problem with heating, not just cooling.


texts: How do I attach storage shelving/rack to the floor?

texts:
This is perfect for holding our computer servers. MUST be these measurements (60x24x84)

We need it to bolt/attach to the floor so it won't tip over no matter what.

What is a way to do that with this rack?
Is there a rack in these dimensions that has an easier way to attach itself to the floor? I know Gorilla racks have built in things for this purpose but I can't find one in that size.


texts: Wiring Diagram From a Wall Switch To Two Light Fixtures

texts: What is wiring diagram from wall switch (source) to two light fixtures ?  Isn't it fairly simple ? All blacks together,  all whites together, all grounds together with wire terminals on all connections. Turn both light fixtures on or off at same time.


texts: How to fix / replace metal strip in corner of the wall (uk)

texts: A thin strip of metal has pulled away from the wall and is slowly bent and pulling up further up the wall, What is this strip and how would i go about replacing it and fixing the wall?


texts: light stays on even after disconnecting switch

texts: Have a light that's been working fine for years. Two switches control the light on opposite sides of the room. All of the sudden light will not turn off. Disconnected both switches and light stays on. Tested voltage at both switches and get almost nothing or just a few volts. At first I swore the meter was jumping over 150 volts to OL but not anymore. Get 120 volts at light bulb socket.  Light is hung via hook from 18 foot ceiling.


texts: What equipment could I use for digging out a basement after the house is built?

texts:
My mother and father built the home I live in many years ago. It only had a half basement. My father had started on the other side, but passed away before finishing it. I have now taken this job on. I have removed approximately 100+ 5 gallon buckets of dirt, chopping and picking away at it, shoveling it into buckets and carrying it from underneath the house.

Is there a piece of digging equipment that I could rent or even buy, that would make this job just a small bit easier on mine and my husband's backs? A whole lot easier would be great, but I would settle for even a small bit.


texts:
We've just had a new kitchen, and the ceiling has been re-skimmed.  I need to paint this, but we now have spotlights in the ceiling; see the picture below:

In order to get this off, I can see a small ring, which I can remove, and the bulb pops out, but the trim remains in place.  What's the technique for removing the trim (or is the best way to try and paint around these somehow)?


texts: I am disconnecting a bathroom exhaust fan that is vented to a roof vent in my attic. This caused condensation/moisture in my attic, which became apparent on these cold winter days. Some of the insulation is damp( I plan on replacing what is apparently damp). There are no signs of mold at this time.  What do I need do so to don't have mold/rot problem in the future? Do I need to be concerned about the second floor ceiling drywall?


texts: How do I insulate a whole-house fan during the winter?

texts:
I would like to insulate my whole-house fan in the winter. I've see insulating covers that you can attach with magnetic strips or velcro, but the look does not appeal to me and I don't trust how well a velcro seal would work (our fan is aluminum).

I'm curious if there are other ways to insulate a whole-house fan for the winter.

I had an idea to make a foam insert and drop it in from the top. I'm imagining spraying some expanding foam into a wood frame. The frame would rest on top of the frame around the hole for the fan. I could even mount it with some hinges so it's easy to open and close. Not sure how feasible this is.

edit: Checked the attic and saw that the fan motor extends pretty high. The insulation would need to be attached to the bottom of the fan opening. Looking like the cover might be my only option.


texts: How to stop self closing doors from slamming

texts:
Most of our doors have a mechanism to automatically close them.

The mechanism looks to be a chain that is connected to a spring which pulls the door shut.  Like so:

What can I do to prevent the slamming noise without stopping the door from closing itself.


texts: Shared ground between two different circuits?

texts:
I have a 240 circuit that i am trying to split into 2 120 circuits.  I have only 3 wires available, red/white/black.  I have another circuit a few inches away (both in junction boxes),  Can I share the GROUND wire with the two circuits to avoid having to run all the way back to the panel or getting only one circuit from the 3 wires.  I know how to split the circuit, breakers, etc.  My only question is the shared ground.  All 3 circuits will be 20A.

It is the GROUND I am asking about, not the neutral wire.


texts: Basement waterproofing with thermal break

texts:
I need help figuring out best solution to fix my basement moisture/mold issue...

As far as I can tell, water is entering at bottom seam of poured concrete wall and basement floor. I considered external waterproofing, but I was quoted $32K (105ft of external wall) and I cannot afford that.

I am thinking of getting Basement Systems' Waterguard perimeter french drain installed with thermaldry vapor barrier on the walls that channels any water from the concrete wall into waterguard (thermal dry is a bubble wrap type material with bubbles facing wall and an aluminum coating on the interior side. Essentially the bubbles let water make its way to the bottom where it leaks into french drain. Aluminum coating is supposed to reflect most of radiant heat back into the basement and provide some insulating value).

It would be installed like this:

I have few questions/concerns:

1) There are vertical expansion cuts in poured concrete walls. These tend to leak after rains. How can I waterproof these cuts that are ~1/4" wide and run top to bottom on wall? I used epoxy to fix cracks in walls before, but I would need massive amounts of the stuff to fill up the voids. Is there something else I could use?

2) Instead of thermaldry, I was going to use spray on closed cell insulation on the walls, but I am concerned with continued water seepage through cracks (I had several cracks over the years) & expansion cuts. What would happen if I had closed cell insulation sprayed on concrete walls with these leaks? Would water push insulation off the walls? Would it leak through?

3) Is it a good idea to have a vapor barrier against concrete walls? This bubble stuff has some insulating value but I am worried, humidity will still condense on the inside surface of vapor barrier. Is there an insulated vapor barrier available that would provide a thermal break while channeling any water from concrete wall to french drain?

4) I would like to avoid spraying foam insulation on thermaldry as it would probably void warranty. Can you think of a way I could install rigid XPS over thermaldry with no air gaps (and without voiding warranty)? I asked installer this question and waiting on answer.

5) There's an 1/8" wide crack in floor (maybe 10' long) - how should I have it fixed?

6) I was thinking of rebuilding finished walls as: corning seal gasket, pressure treated 2x4" plate, 2x4" studs 24" on center. Not sure about what insulation I should use (I guess depends on if I can get XPS installed over bubble wrap) and 1/2" drywall on outside.

I am probably over complicating things, but I would like to have a solution that channels water from walls while also having a good thermal break to avoid condensation. Any and all advice is appreciated!!!


texts:
I live in Europe, so we don't have GFCI exactly, the device is called RCBO but the mode of operation is same. In my flat, the RCBO is the first breaker in the panel, this way it protects whole flat, not just single circuit.
I was redoing the outlets in one room. The room is on it's own circuit, so I have turned off the breaker for this room and verified with mains voltage tester that the circuit is powered off.
When working on the outlets I had cut the cable (all three leads at once) and the GFCI tripped. I have then turned the RCBO back on and the situation did not happen again. When working on the other outlets, or the same one. I have then checked the cable with a multimeter, and there was no voltage between any 2 pairs.
Is it possible that the static electricity caused the GFCI to trip?
The installation is few months old, done to the code, and passed inspection - it was done by certified electrician. All wiring is CYKY 3x2.5 (copper leads, 2.5mm2), main breaker is 16A. The test button on the RCBO works perfectly.
The room has vinyl flooring and I was wearing polyester clothing, hence the idea about static electricity.


texts: I recently ordered an led strip off of amazon and i hooked it up to a 19v power supply. it turned on suddenly and then turned off. Did i botch my new led strip? how can i tell if i really did. I disconnected it from that PSU and connected is to an 12v as other people did in the comments section on amazon did, but the lights would not turn on.


texts:
Ive made myself a fairly large porch area on the front and side of my house.  Im in the UK but Ive always liked American style porches, so ive ended up with a porch that is 7.5m along the front and another 7.5m along the side of the house, and it comes 2.5m away from the front and side house walls.  So its pretty large.  Now I want to make a roof for it and Ive been through many options in my head and Ive ended up deciding on half glass, and half wood.  Because its pretty large and deep, if it was all solid roof, I'd lose a lot of light to the house windows.  It cant be all glass either though, or might well be too hot in the summer.  Im also hoping to have a system where I can roll down material over the glass on hot days, to act as a shade to prevent the glass heating up the porch area too much.

Ive worked out I need toughened glass, and the costs aren't too bad - something like £50 for a single 1500mm x 1500mm piece, and I'd need 5 of those for the front (im leaving the side of the house all wood) so its not too expensive.  Im just not sure how I go about fixing this glass to my joists.  I have 6x 4" (1000mm) square posts along the front of the porch upto my height of around 2.4m (each one is about 1.5m apart).  I have 6x2 size joists connecting the posts along the front at my height, and Im going to run 6x2 joists from the house wall on a slight slope down to the front posts.  Not being a professional woodworker, Im just not sure of the best way to secure the glass, and to also ensure it doesnt leak at the joist sides.  Do I run a strip of wood along each joist, just below the top, and sit the glass pieces on that?  And do I need to use putty to seal each one?  Or is there a better way of doing it.  Any help on this will be really appreciated, or any links to how this is done well to make a nice waterproof seal.  Also am I being too ambitious in thinking I can manoeuvre these large pieces of glass into place on my joists in the first place!  And will they be safe enough (toughened clear glass).  Thanks all.