texts: How do I connect touch panel 3 gang switch?

texts:
I’m confusing about line2 from wall has 4 wires instead of 3? Line 1 and Line3 has only 3 wires. Line 2 is not 3-ways switch. What I know is only 3-way switch has 4 wires. My question is how do I connect to smart touch panel switch? That switch is different than regular switch. It combines all the live wires and go into L. Neutral wires go into L1, L2 and L3. I don’t know what to do the red wire from Line 2. Please help me solve my issue.

Added..

Thank you all for suggestion. I decided not to use it. Is there any switch out there I can turn on and off by remote control or something? because that switch is behind something, it’s very hard to reach. That why I bought this item which I can use by remote control.

I bought the smart switchs. I’m going to use instead of previous one. But I’m facing another issue. Those smart switch has 4 wires including red wire. I’m going to install 3 smart switches for 3 lights. I tested the line wires. Only one of the line wire (black)from middle circuit has power. The other 2 have no power. Also only middle circuit has red wire. The other 2 have no red wire. How do I connect?


texts: How can I switch between three devices on one 50A circuit?

texts: i have two welders and one plasma cutter all 220 volt @ 50 amps. I would like to run a cable to a welding table and have a way to switch power to three different outlets  on the table. Only one unit powered at any time. Can some tell what switch use?


texts: Electrical switch for outdoor security light(motion activated)

texts: I would like to have the switch work to give power to outdoor lights when we are active on the patio, then hit the switch and turn off outdoor lights and send power to motion activated light. This way the motion activated light won’t keep on activating while family is on the patio. Then we hit switch to go to bed and motion activated light turns on and outdoor lights turn off. Was hoping to do it with one switch instead of two


texts: Help modifying window opening. American Concrete Institute standards? Building code?

texts:
I'm remodeling my kitchen and part of the work that I want to do involves modifying my window rough openings. Currently, the windows in my kitchen are lower than the countertop backsplash and I want to raise them up above the counter so that they're easy to open and don't collect dust and trash, etc.
My house was built in 1968 and it's constructed of single-wythe CMU walls with no stucco. I'm located in Florida and this construction is very common for older homes in Florida. My plan for this work is as follows:

Remove the current wood sills. Lucky me, these should come right out.
Mortar an additional row of block into the bottom of the window openings.
Secure the new block to the wall by drilling rebar into the sides and through the bottoms of the existing block.
Fill the CMU webs with grout.
Mortar a new precast sill on top of the new row of block.
Install new windows.

I'm doing this work on an owner/builder permit. I submitted this week to add this window/masonry work to my existing permit and my city's building department has come back to me asking for additional information before they'll approve. They've asked me to show compliance with Florida Building Code and the American Concrete Institute for the alteration to the window opening that I've proposed. I'm generally familiar with the Florida Building Code but I am stumped by one requirement – more on this later.
It's the question about showing compliance with the American Concrete Institute that really has me concerned. This is a lot of information to read, and I bet that the parts that I need to be concerned with comprise only a very small part of their total body of standards.
My first question is, is anyone familiar with the American Concrete Institute's standards or requirements, or best practices, etc. and can you point me to the general direction of what I should read to learn enough to ensure that my alteration will be compliant?
My second question has to do with the Florida Build Code 6th edition section R703.4 "Flashing." Specifically the requirement that "Approved corrosion resistant flashings shall be installed at the following locations... #3 Under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal copings and sills." Does this require that I install flashing under (and to the sides of) the precast concrete sill? If this is required, how should I attach the sill to the block? I would expect the use of a sill pan, for example, would prevent adequate surface for mortaring the precast sill to the block. If I can't mortar the sill to the block, what will hold it in place?
I will be flashing the window according to the window manufacturer's instructions (Pella), but these of course don't say anything about the window rough opening or sill construction.
The included drawing should hopefully convey the work that I'm doing. Any help at all as appreciated.


texts: How do I join an existing outlet into PVC electrical boxes and conduit?

texts:
I have an outlet on a wall in my garage. I want to move this outlet to the ceiling for use on a garage door opener and a retractable reel extension cord. I think a way to do this is to run PVC electrical conduit from the old outlet location, up to the ceiling.

I will eliminate the old wall outlet rather than add an outlet in addition to it, it is in an inconvenient location.

What is the correct way to go from an existing, flush mount wall outlet to a new junction box that will accept PVC electrical  conduit?

I am not sure if there is a way to take a bare wire into surface mount PVC electrical boxes or if there is a specialPVC electrical  box that will join to an existing box.

I am performing this work to get caught up on a "temporary" fix I ran into 4 years ago. I should not have allowed that temporary solution to sit for so long. Letting that temporary solution sit was foolish.


texts: Upon a call for heat my gas furnace (1997 Coleman/Evcon model DGAT056BDD counterflow furnace) blower normally delays coming on for 90 seconds. It consistently runs for a few minutes, stops for 8 seconds, then runs for the duration of the heating cycle and for 60 seconds thereafter (as per the settings on the control board). Does anyone have an idea what is causing this one-time 8 second off/on cycling of the blower during the heating cycle?


texts:
I'm trying to make the best of a bad situation here.

New (old) house + slow drain + airhead teenage daughter = flooded 2nd floor bathroom.

It flooded so bad that the ceiling in my entryway underneath partially collapsed.  I was in the process of removing the damaged sheetrock when my wife saw the underside of the floor and asked if we could heat the floors since they were exposed.

We don't have heat in that bathroom (Apparently code doesn't require heat in bathrooms in New Jersey), so it would be nice.  But I can't imagine effective radiant heating through tile + subfloor.  Is it possible? If so, should I be using a hot water system or electric.  I've installed electric systems embedded in mortar but I'b be a bit intimidated about having them exposed to oxygen, and against the subfloor.


texts: How do I paint a basement ceiling and heating pipes?

texts:
What is the best way to paint a basement ceiling?

Can I paint the copper baseboard heating pipes?   Do I have to use special paint?


texts: Can I use an outside feeder tap to run power to a garage?

texts:
I have a newly built garage that I would like to add a sub panel.  I have a QO load center QOB8-16L 100S  which is rated for 100 amps. However, I think 60 amps would be more than adequate for my needs (1 20amp with 5 boxes, 1 20 amp dedicated to 10,000 BTU window Air conditioner, 1 15 amp circuit for 3 lights, 1 future 20 amp circuit to run to shed, 1 future 30 amp 240 volt circuit just in case) The total length of the run from the main service disconnect outside the house (200 amp) to the sub in the garage is about 60 ft. The sub in the garage is located adjacent to the pull up garage door.  I've been told:

can't tap at the service box outside the house;
can't use split bolt connectors;
can tap the load side of the 200 amp breaker using Polaris lugs and putting a disconnect on this feeder line immediately adjacent to the existing one.

The NEC on taps and feeders is somewhat confusing but looking at the section on outside feeder taps, it appears I should be able to do this without adding another disconnect at the house.  The new feeder line would be protected by the 200 amp breaker which would be immediately upline of the Polaris lug. I would also install a backfed 60 amp breaker in the sub panel (or an AC disconnect) so I could disconnect everything there (normal AC disconnect does not provide over current protection).

Can I tap this way, or, what is the correct way to do it and what size wire should I use for the 60 ft underground run (direct bury cable, THHW or similar in conduit, or something else)?  and what size Polaris lug  to use (what size wire is used for 200 amp from the breaker to the inside the house). Also, do I need a ground rod at the garage?  Thank you in advance for your responses and any enlightenment you may choose to shower on me.
Here is a picture of the meter and adjacent 200 amp disconnect.

Service enters at meter. adjacent disconnect 200 amp to the right.  Cable box is below meter. telephone box to left of cable box. It would be difficult to run from the house load center, as it is in the middle of the house. So, do the outside tap rules allow me to tap the load side of the 200 amp breaker and run it to a 60 amp main at the garage? The disconnect would be at the garage. Or would I Need to put a 60 amp disconnect next to the 200 amp box and run to the garage?


texts: How to wire a Taco zone valve controller with ecobee

texts:
I'm having an issue with wiring my Weil McLain gas boiler. It was wired up fine and working for a single zone. I added (2) 4 wire zone valves in. So I now have 2 zones, a Taco zone valve controller(zvc-403), and two ecobee thermostats.  And I have no idea how to wire it up.

I watched a video that showed me how to wire the valve controller. By wiring the circulator to the pump end switch and each of the thermostats to the proper zone and each zone valve to the proper zone on the board. That was pretty self-explanatory. But my question is: What happens to all the other connections on the boiler?? Like the water limiter and the gas wiring relays etc. I currently have a transformer relay with a lot of wiring connected to it - and no idea what to do with all those connections.

Do I just take the thermostat wires off the existing relay transformer and connect them in the controller and bring 120V to the controller to power it, and leave those connections powered with 120V to work completely on their own as long as it has power?

Or do I remove the thermostat wires from the existing relay transformer and  bring the them to the controller, and remove the 120V power fro the existing relay transformer, and run the thermostat wires through the relay transformer as they were before? So no power in that relay transformer.

They completely left out what to do with all these other existing connections.  I have some pictures of what my boiler looks like and the controller. Can anyone help with this? I have a decent idea of electrical work just never worked with HVAC and relays.


texts: What problems can I have if I try to dry up the parging of a wet wall using a plumber's torch?

texts:
On the outer wall of my basement I have a couple of wet spots which I am trying to understand if they are drying up or not. ( I like to believe that I eliminated the source of water which was an incorrectly sloped patio) In order to determine if they are drying up in time I marked their margins with white chalk.

It has been some time since I did that and I do not see any change. Very dry weather here in Toronto or heavy rain left these spots unchanged.

In order to see if they are actually wet spots and not just some sort of darker mineral salt I would like to try to dry up one of these with a plumber torch
I am wondering if there could be any potential problems with doing this. Do you see any?

thanks in advance


texts: Hiding rain drain pipe below the sidewalk

texts:
I have a 100mm pipe (4") that comes under the garage ramp and outputs the rain water to the street. My problem is that I couldn't have the pipe goes straight to the street because of the slope needed, so I diverted the pipe 45° at the sidewalk point.

The pipe end sits a bit above the curb level, so now I need to find a way to hide this pipe. I thought of maybe using a drain grate, but I couldn't find anyone with 45° corners (I could weld something, but I would be a very tedious work). Another idea is using a heat blower to compress the pipe to that it goes below the curb level, but I think this might create clogging problems.

Any other choices?

EDIT: Added a picture of the pipe in question


texts: Can I replace a 30 amp breaker on my panel with a 25 amp for my new hot water heater?

texts: My New Hot Water Heater requires a 25 amp breaker rating at the panel. I currently have a 30 amp at the breaker at the panel for the hot water heater. Should I change it to a 25 amp?


texts:
i'm trying to prevent rats from getting into an outdoor shed.  i've thoroughly checked the whole interior, and the only opening is from the front door (see the right door in the picture.  ignore the left door, that only closes fully from the outside).

my intuition is that i should get a foam sealing tape, but i'm concerned that it won't repel pests.  in this situation, i don't really care about thermal or humidity leaking, only something that rats won't chew through.  any suggestions?


texts: Troubleshooting Garage Door Opener (GDO) safety sensors

texts:
A Linear Brand GDO (model LD033) does not close unless the wired button is held down.

I believe optical safety sensors:

may have been exposed to flood water (hurricane Matthew flooding)
LEDs are not lit up as per normal ops (all LEDs dark)

UPDATE: LEDS light up: the red LED on photo-detector is dark.  Normally it is red when it detects the emitter source.

I suspect that the GDO thinks that the optical safety beam is interrupted \ broken and that is the reason why the RF opener can not close the door.

NORMAL GDO OPS:
A  separate, asymptomatic, instance of the same GDO setup was exposed to flood water but did not suffer this problem.  Observations of normal ops include visible sensor LEDs being lit up to indicate power.  Interruption of the beam results in one of the two LEDs going dark (red LED).  The symptomatic GDO's unlit \ dark LEDs in the optical safety sensors indicate either the sensors are not receiving power or are damaged.

I would like to isolate (diagnose) the problem for corrective action: is there a good troubleshooting procedure?  Any process or diagnostic questions are appreciated


texts:
The water heater that came with my home when I purchased it is on a double pole 30A breaker and wired with 12/2 romex. The breaker seems to be sized correctly for the wattage (4500W) but should it be using 10/2 wire?
I am in Canada so would be following the CEC. Here is the label on the water heater:

Also, is this an acceptable way to secure the wire running down to the water heater?


texts: I'd like to build my own garage Olympic lifting platform, but can it support a car?

texts:
I have a converted carport to garage, with an unfinished but smooth concrete surface.  I'm slowly building up my home gym, and I'm interested in options as far as flooring goes. I'd like to build a lifting platform, not unlike these:

Chris Duffin's Platforms

The challenge here lies in when I park the car-I'd have to run over the platform.  My car would undoubtedly damage any normal platform.  I could just make portable ones easily, but I'd like to entertain 'finished', permanent options.

I have a couple ideas:

Construct a metal frame that houses three different sections of material that can be removed or repaired easily.  Before pulling my car in, I could remove and store the platform sections.
Create a strong 'cover', that the car drives over.  When I pull my car out to train, I would remove the cover, revealing an in-ground platform.  In ground platforms look like this: Flush Platform

Thoughts?


texts: Extending ground from one circuit to another

texts:
One of my circuits has a compromised ground wire, by something along the route of its cable ( like a nail or something ) so it's not grounding properly. If it has only one receptacle ( dishwasher + garbage disposal ) and that receptacle has adjacent ones from different circuits that have a functional ground, can I extend their ground to it?

Additionally, I also have a non circuit ground wire nearby that I use to ground my outside cable service box as well as a gas outlet that uses a flexible yellow extension hose ( that somehow requires to be grounded in my area ). If I can't use the ground wire from another circuit, can I connect to that from this receptacle ? I can use a wire that has green insulation going between the receptacle and this independent ground.


texts:
I would build my own DIY sauna, but I can't seem to find extensive information about it. Nor I can find plans to build one. How can I build one?

My father has a lot of home building knowledge, but we've never built a sauna.


texts: Smart Thermostat (Nest, Honeywell or Ecobee) from KMC wiring?

texts: I moved into a 1br condo recently and was looking to update the thermostat to Nest (or other Smart home thermostat). The current thermostat model is KMC and when I took off the casing, the wiring does not match the typical Y/G/W/C/R outputs. I tried reaching out to Nest and Ecobee for guidance but have hit a dead end. Further searches have shown that the Right side of the image could match to R/W/Y2/Y1/R/ O/B / G; but I'm not sure what the left side wiring would connect to. Has anyone come across this? Thanks!


texts: Why does Florida drywall have a pebbled surface?

texts: Why does drywall in Florida typically have a pebbled surface? Up north it is mainly smooth.


texts: Bathroom lights went out, but breaker isn't tripped

texts:
I just bought a house built in the late 90's. While upgrading some lights in the bathroom, I replaced a recessed can light with an LED version that uses an adapter for the bulb socket and simply fits over the can. The only wiring involved is a ground wire.

After getting the new light setup, I tested it and it worked just fine, including when I had the ground wire hooked to the can. As I was pushing the cover onto the can, all the bathroom lights went out. This included the shower & toilet cubby next to it. I also found that the other 1.5 bathrooms also didn't have working lights anymore.

Fortunately the wall sockets still worked.

I find this strange, but evidently code allows bathroom lights to be all on the same circuit as long as the outlets are on a different circuit. I think I still want to separate them out, but that's a different topic for later, I think.

I went to the breaker panel and tripped what I thought was the correct breakers, but I still didn't have lights. Then I flipped all the breakers to make sure I got the right one and still nothing. I ended up getting out my multimeter and taking the front panel off the box, then checking that the breakers were working correctly. They were, but still no lights.

I've searched the whole house multiple times and there isn't any subpanel or anything else I can find with breakers in it, except for the dedicated breaker for the AC unit outside.

I'm going to self-answer, since I finally figured it out accidentally. I'm writing this up so that other people might benefit from my weird solution.


texts: Circuit still powered after switching off circuit breaker and light switch

texts:
I was changing some outdoor lights. I had the circuit breaker off (which stopped the lights from working) and the switch off. I used a contactless circuit tester and a testing screwdriver which suggested there was no current.

When working on the live wire I felt a slight buzz - not strong enough to call it a shock - so I shorted it to ground with a screwdriver and there was a spark.  After that there is no more buzz from the wire and nothing tripped.

Given the circuit breaker is off how was it possible to get a very small shock from the live wire? Is it residual charge in appliances on the circuit discharging?  Is there anything one should do when working in this situation?


texts: Why is lots of water bad for septic, and how can I take long showers without hurting it?

texts:
I recently bought my first home that has septic, after 26 years of living with sewers. I've heard that putting lots of water down the septic all at one time is bad for the system, but I'm confused as to why. As I understand it, the septic tank pumps liquids and other broken down material into the leach field, so the water should go right through into the field.

Due to a chronic pain condition as a result of a car accident, I routinely take 2 hour hot showers to help be able to use my neck for an entire work day. With a standard shower head, this means I'm running about 250 gallons of water through the septic system. (And a low-flow showerhead isn't going to get me the pressure I need to help with my neck.) From an environmental standpoint, I'm not too concerned -- after all, I'm basically pumping the water out of my well and putting it back into the ground 100 ft away in the backyard, so the ecological impact shouldn't be too bad -- but I'm worried I'm somehow damaging my system.

Is this going to hurt the septic system? If so, is there something I can do (perhaps by modifying my plumbing and doing something else with shower waste water) to avoid damage?


texts:
I need 20A 250V for an espresso Machine.
I have 50A 250V going to my electric Range.
Can hook the espresso machine on the same line as the Electric Range ?

What bother me is that the 20A 250V espresso will be "protected" by the 50A breaker .


texts: Swag hooks in drywall ceiling, steel frame house

texts: I want to hang some Moroccan decór lanterns. Would swag hooks work? The house has a steel frame, so I can't use a stud. It would be just drywall. I'm not sure the total weight of all the lanterns together. They're probably 1-2lbs, if that, and I have about 5 with a few hanging candle holders (tea light). One I think is heavier though. Any ideas/suggestions?


texts: Is this enough room for undercabinet sink plus disposal?

texts:
We are remodeling our kitchen and considering an undercabinet sink, and also want a disposal. The drain line is 18" from the underside of the 1.5" thick countertop. The sink is a stainless steel 70/30 model, with the larger side 9" deep and the smaller side 6 5/8" deep.

Is there enough room to mount a disposal under the sink and still have room for the p-trap?

By my calculations, the bottom of the larger bowl will be 9" above the drain pipe and the smaller side will be 10 3/8" above the drain pipe. A basic disposal shows 7 3/16" from the bottom of the sink to the centerline of the disposal pipe (given the 1/2" addition for a stainless steel sink).

That seems like it will be enough room to install a disposal on either side and still have enough room to properly install the p-trap since it will start 2" above the drain pipe.

Is my math and understanding correct?

Note: lowering the drain line would be expensive at this point, so that option is not being considered.


texts: Is this normal - Electrical outlet - make hot prong on cable a tiny bit warm

texts:
My vacuum cleaner cable and plug (pins) used to get hot. As a workaround, I bought a heavy duty extension cord  and I use it with the vacuum cleaner. Originally, I noticed that while the vacuum cleaner cable continued to be warm,
the extension cord never got warm at all.
Recently, I started testing the extension cord prongs,
and I noticed that while the neutral pin temperature doesn't change at all, the hot pin gets slightly warm. If I don't test right away after unplugging the cord, I would hardly notice the difference.
I have to put the pins on my lips to confirm the temperature.
Now I read that it's normal for a cord to get a little warm for appliances such as vacuum cleaners or toasters.
What I am not sure about is why only one of the two pins gets warm, while the other doesn't. Should I call for an electrician to inspect, or is this normal, and I am being a bit paranoid?


texts:
Today I noticed that a good little chunk of my ceiling in my bathroom had fallen into the bath tub. It appears to be some water damage, though the only thing above the ceiling is an attic that I'm refinishing (no plumbing) so it shouldn't be due to a leak. I'm guessing it's just moisture from the shower itself.

How should I fix this so it doesn't happen again? Just patch with compound sand and paint?


texts: Bathroom Light Fixture: What is this? And where can I get a replacement?

texts:
This is from a bathroom light fixture and covers one of the lights. I'm looking for two of these matching orbs to replace a broken one. It has a twist-and-lock system around the neck (Big box hardware stores don't have this). I can't seem to find the right Google search terms to find anything that will work. So...

Measures 5" tall including neck. Neck is 2.5" diameter inside-to-inside edge. Max diameter is about 5.5".

What is this? Where can I get another one?

OR

Do I need to replace the full light fixture if I want orb covers?


texts:
I have a bay window with a (I think) classic 3-sided trim bottom.  The trim is rotting and I plan on replacing it down to the studs and back.  So studs, exterior ply, tyvex and flashing, then trim - either poplar or azek pvc.

Here is the first ask - could you take a look at this video?

https://solutions.dunnlumber.com/projects/using-and-installing-azek-trim

Note how he creates the box structure - he has an outer rectangle of trim over  another panel then insets trim to create a nice 3d effect.

My question, and I looked throughout the article, is what is the first layer? From the video I can see he put down his ply and tyvex but for the first panel, is that azek so he is nailing azek to azek?  I wasn't sure you could do that - I thought it was azek to substrate (ply).

I'll try to ascii draw it.

------------------------------------
|                                  |
|       -------------------        |
|       |xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx |       |
|       |x               x |       |
|       |x               x |       |
|       |xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx |       |
|       -------------------        |
|                                  |
------------------------------------

In this "drawing" the x is the decorative trim, the box it is in is the inset, and the outer.  So the stuff x is attached to, probably azek?

Trying to figure this out so that I can make sure I have enough room as my drip edge fro mthe windows above is only so big.

Thanks.

Meta: Also, if someone with 300+ rep could add the tag "azek" I think that would be useful for others.


texts: What is it? Red and waxy debris from drilling studs

texts:
I was drilling two studs in order to install a wall-mounted shelf, and one of the studs smelled funny when I started drilling.

It smelled kind of sweet and the dust that came out is sort of red, plastic-looing and waxy.

It kind of smells like cedar. I live in Austin, Texas, so could it be cedar studs?

Also, it's near the stairs, could I have hit a beam?


texts:
how do I wire this lamp holder? http://www.creative-cables.co.uk/33985-big_default/e27-lamp-holder-with-switch-black-bakelite.jpg I am confused by the switch.

I live in Sweden if that matters. I have a regular cable without earth.

Thanks!


texts: Alternative to Silicone Wood Filler for Door Frame

texts:
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.

I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?


texts: What Steps Should I Take to Troubleshoot My Gas Oven?

texts:
I recently purchased a house, and it came with a gas oven. I've never owned or used a gas oven before, and the oven takes an extremely long time to preheat (like hours). I replaced the door gasket after reading up a bit online about common problems, but it still seems to heat very slowly.

What are my next steps? It does heat, so it seems like it's getting gas and all, and I'm planning to take the front off and give it a thorough cleaning, but I'm curious if there are any other "first look" steps I can take that might help before calling a specialist.


texts: Wiring question regarding switching wire gauge within a circuit

texts: I have a 20 amp circuit that was run with 10AWG underground to an outside GFCI outlet. Can I switch to running 12 awg (since its 20 amp) to have a light and switch after the GFCI?


texts: Best way to affix EPS insulation panels to interior plaster walls?

texts: My house was built in 1957 and there is little or no insulation in the exterior walls. To increase the R-value, I plan to put up 1-inch panels of expanded polystyrene, then use adhesive to attach 3D tiles made of plant fiber. For the insulating panels, should I use construction caulk, a special adhesive, double-sided gorilla tape, drywall screws, or something beyond my scant knowledge? Thanks.


texts: Should I install a moisture barrier behind drywall in house with T1-11 siding?

texts:
My home interior walls are thick redwood paneling in the bay area mountains.
i'm about to start removing the wood in my second bedroom and want to install a moisture barrier on the 1 outside wall of the room.

I found this page: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infenergysavers/infthickenwalls.html
describing the process of making a wall thicker by converting to a 2x6 stud allowing for more insulation. The last step before the drywall went on was covering the wall with a cellophane moisture barrier.

My question is, will adding this moisture barrier to the inside of my walls raise potential for damage inside the wall? There is currently insulation and T1-11 siding and no moisture barrier on either side of the wall.


texts: Why would the breaker be tripping after removing a ceiling fan?

texts: I removed a ceiling fan and capped off both wires but my circuit breaker trips. Is it possible that the fan was in a pathway with some thing else? If so, do I just connect those wires together? There are two white wires and one black wire.


texts:
I have an in ground swimming pool.  There is an outdoor sub panel with a 20amp GFCI breaker is connected to the pump.  Today we had a bad rain storm...water coming down cats and dogs in every direction.

After the storm, I noticed my pool pump wasn't working.  The breaker had tripped.  I tried to turn it on, and it went off immediately.

So, I swapped out the breaker and the same thing happened....so it's not the breaker.  Tomorrow, I am going to disconnect and wirenut the wires from the pump (disconnect the pump).  If the breaker doesn't trip after that I will conclude there is a short in the wires running through the conduit...right?

Because it will be a pain to pull the wires and replace....which I am ok to run (temporarily, just to make sure it will work) the wires directly from the panel to the pump without putting them in the conduit right away.  When I say "not right away" I mean long enough to make sure the breaker doesn't trip.  If it doesn't trip then I would pull all the old wires and snake the new ones through.

I figured I would run this concept by the people here and get some feedback on this plan.

Thanks


texts: How do I know if my power drill needs to rotate clockwise or counter clockwise to drill forward?

texts:
This maybe a dumb question but I simply want to make sure I got it right because the manual seems to be defective. I already got one of my drill bits ruined.

So, could anyone show me both pictures of a left-handed drill bit and a right-handed drill bit (because I'm not sure which I'm using) and what direction should they rotate for each to drill forward assuming that the user is facing the tip of the drill bit? (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise when facing the tip of the drill bit).

When I say tip of the drill bit, I mean the end of the drill bit that makes contact to the surface to make holes.

Please forgive my English.

UPDATE:

Here's the picture of my power drill and the manual.

As you can see in the picture it is currently set to "R" which turns, as the manual says, the drill bit to the right or clockwise. I'm assuming the manual meant that from the perspective when the drill bit is facing you as shown in the image from the manual. It actually does that. So from my perspective behind the drill it's rotating counterclockwise. As written in the manual, you have to set it to "R" if you want to drill forward and "L" if you want to reverse drill.

Update:

And the video
http://vimeo.com/m/64855403


texts: Should Door Trim/Jamb be flush cut with bottom of base for carpet install?

texts: I'm finishing a room that will have new carpet installed. I plan to install the baseboard height about 1/2" off the slab so carpet can flow underneath. The room is all painted (trim/walls), but no base is installed. My question is: should I cut the closet/doors trim/jambs at 1/2" as well (before base install) so the carpet can flow under or is it not a big deal? The carpet will be about 5/8" thick and 1/2" pad, uncompressed.


texts: Grounding a subpanel using existing wiring

texts:
I had a 60 amp breaker that was connected to an oven in the kitchen. Since this is no longer needed, I'm trying to re-purpose this #6 wire to connect to a new Electric water heater I'm putting in the basement. Putting any new wires will require me to break up the basement ceilings which I'd avoid if possible. So, I decided to put up a sub panel in the basement (about 15 feet from the main panel) and connect this 60 amp 6 gauge wire to the subpanel and add a 30 amp breaker connected to 10/3 wire to the new heat pump/water heater (35 ft away in the basement). But the original #6 wire only had a 2 hot and a neutral coming into the sub panel, no separate ground wire included. This house was built in the 80's and probably these wiring were done around the same time.

So, my question is this... how do I take care of the ground in the subpanel. The new electric water heater only takes 2 hot and a ground connection (no neutral needed). But, I'm only getting the neutral(and 2 hots) from the main panel and I don't really have anything to ground it to in the basement where this sub panel will be located. Is it mandatory to ground the subpanel separately? What's my best option here?

Thanks!


texts: After removing the brick liner for cleaning, I found a rectangle of white insulation behind the center liner panel.  The manual says removal of the panel and vacuuming behind it are part of annual maintenance. Is it possible that the insulation is asbestos? See attached photos.


texts: Using 15 amp thermostat on a 20 amp circuit

texts:
I've seen this question about receptacles, but what about thermostats? My house in Washington state has really old mechanical thermostats that don't have their rating specified anywhere, but judging by 12 AWG wire they are 20 amps (all wiring in the circuit is 12 AWG, too, and the breaker is 20 amps). The thermostats I want to replace them with are rated 15 amps. There are total of 3 heaters (in 3 rooms, 1 thermostat per heater) in the circuit, each draw less than 10 amps and total draw should be around 14 amps.
Can I use 15 amp thermostat in circuit with 20 amp breaker?


texts: Vertical drilling into ceiling joist for pilot hole

texts:
When it comes to vertical drilling into a joist, the internet is split in two:

One is discussions about drilling a large hole through the joist to pass plumbing/electrical/etc, and the answer is "don't do it!". There's discussions about the bending face, thirds of the joist, code, etc., and how any notching/drilling on the bottom of a joist - especially in the center 3rd - is the worst thing you can do.

The other half is about mounting stuff to the ceiling - on which there are... crickets. If you keep looking, you'll find mounting instructions for stuff (like lamps, fans, bike hangers or these 400lb and 600lbs racks), where screwing (vertically) into the joist is what you should be doing (as opposed to mounting to drywall), and as long as you're centered enough on the joist, there's nothing else to worry about. Pilot holes are welcome.

Can anyone help settle the discrepancy?

Personally, I'm mounting a 6lbs projector (+2 lbs mount) in the middle of a long timber ceiling joist in the middle of a living room; the ceiling supports a residential floor (another living room) above it. Barring new information, I've decided to use 2 x wood screws (#10 or #12 w/ 1/8" pilot hole) instead of thicker lag bolts, since those should easily support the light, static load while minimizing displacement of the joist material.


texts: How to independently switch a GFCI outlet?

texts:
I would like to add a plug outside where each plug would be independently switched. The use of this is to be able to switch a rope light and a fan separately. This is being added to a new breaker so can be treated independent of everything else.

I know how to do this with a standard outlet, but the GFCI aspect is throwing me for a loop.

The best option I have been able to come up with is to buy a GFCI with a blank face and put it in-line before the switches. Is this the best way to handle this? If so, my follow up question is where to place the GFCI box? Is there any issue with placing it in the attic, or does it need easily accessible?

There are no local codes to follow, but I would like to follow all common codes.


texts: Environmentally friendly methods for heating a large addition

texts:
I live in Southern California, and am writing this at my desk in the large family room, which is about 45 sq.m. (500 sq.ft.). This room was added on to the house, and our natural gas furnace doesn't heat it very well (there is only one vent, which doesn't get great flow). For this reason I often run an electric space heater next to my desk when the weather is cold. (There is also a glass sun room next to the family room, which we basically don't use because it's too hot or too cold for most of the year.) Running the space heater continuously seems kind of insane -- its cost probably adds 50% to the total cost of heating our house (20 cents to run it for an hour, compared to maybe 40 cents to run the furnace on a 50% duty cycle over the same time period).

Our furnace and air conditioner are inefficient and reaching the ends of their lives, and my wife and I plan to live here for the rest of our lives, so now would be the time to make intelligent changes that would save us money in the long term. We are also interested in being environmentally benign, even if it costs a little more. In our area, the source of electricity is about 44% natural gas, with the rest being solar plus other stuff that has no carbon footprint. This area is one of the best on earth for solar power, so as time goes on, the share of zero-carbon sources for electricity will probably continue to go up.

Keeping in mind both cost and environmentalism, what is likely to be the best way to make this room more habitable and environmental? Options I can think of include: --

Install a single-room heat pump.
Just upgrade the central heat and AC to more efficient units, but widen or improve the ducts to get more air to the room.
Improve the circulation of air through the house by some other method, without messing with the HVAC vents themselves.
Other...?

I'd sort of dread number 2 because of the lifestyle disruption and because there is a bunch of nice woodwork and cabinetry that would probably have to be torn out. Or is it possible to run ducts out over the roof?


texts: Vermont Castings propane stove flame is normal then "explodes" then goes back to normal

texts: My Vermont Castings Propane stove was working fine yesterday. Today when it goes on, the flame is fine, then it bursts to a large flame for a second and then returns to the normal flame. Then it starts all over again. Anyone know what the problem is? Thank you!


texts:
By accident I pulled the little outlet out of the wall and the wires came out. I remember the electric guy once did it, and put only these 2 wires in, but somehow i'm not getting any phone signal...

I'm not sure i've put these 2 cables back as they were. Though I remember it only having 2 cables... (ps this is the back view of a telephone outlet thingy thats in the wall)


texts:
I have an existing low-voltage old-work box similar to this which I am using to provide a cable TV outlet:

I would like to run more cables to this location, namely, phone and CAT6. I do have access to the location behind the wall through the attic. However, I would like to improve this by drilling a hole through the floor into the basement where all the cables come into the house anyway, and pushing ENT through the hole and attaching it to something different in this location (this box does not have ENT connections).

The only way I know of to make this work is to rip out drywall to expose the entire cavity between the studs, install a new-work low-voltage box to one of the studs, and replace and patch the section of drywall:

I am certainly capable of doing this and have done similar tasks in the past, but would rather avoid the extra work if possible.
One thing I have done in other locations is to push ENT into the wall cavity and get it close enough to the outlet location that when I fish cable though, it is possible to grab it through the hole with fingers or pliers. However, this particular wall cavity has the chimney stack behind it with extra room (much deeper than a 2x4 stud cavity), so cables have too much room to wiggle around and there is a risk they will be too far behind the wall to reach and pull through the outlet box. If I can somehow do the difficult task of grabbing ENT once, and get it attached to a box, then future work will be trivially easy.
Is there a way to securely attach ENT to a box in this location without removing any drywall?
This particular project is restricted to low-voltage work and does not involve real electrical. Location is the USA with no known building codes out of the ordinary that are relevant to this project.


texts: Power connected to dishwasher isn't tied into breaker panel - now what?

texts:
I'm in the process of ripping up old tile from a house we just bought, and started to take out our old dishwasher today. During the process I noticed it's hardwired from the wall.

I went and flipped every breaker in the panel (we haven't had a chance to verify the labels just yet), and went back to the dishwasher. It's at this point I decided to be paranoid (which happens a lot when I'm dealing with stuff I know very little about), and drove back to our current home to grab my voltage detector. Seemed overkill, but it's only a couple minutes away, and I'd prefer to not die.

I come back, place the detector at the dishwasher, and to my surprise the detector goes off like crazy. The wires are still hot.

What do I do now? How can I kill the power to this cord? Do I need to call in an electrician to.. "fix" this somehow?


texts: What low (or no) cost method can I use to shade a south-facing wall from summer heat gain?

texts:
I live in a rental in Tucson, Arizona. The southern wall is thick and has thermal mass but never gets cool enough at night to prevent having to run the A/C to make it bearable. This is killing me with USD$150+ per month electricity bills.

I thought if I could place a tarp leaned against some ladders it would do the trick, but that creates a giant sail that is dangerous as even small breezes start catching it.

This is a rental and I cannot permanently modify the unit.

The average daily temperature for the next month will easily be 104°F! And the coolest I can get the apt down to is 84°F, even running the A/C at 3am.

I need a passive, non-electrical solution to keep the apartment cool as the A/C costs money I do not have.


texts: According to this WikiHow article, one of tools needed to change a spark plug is "an extension."  Is this a type of wrench?


texts:
A few months back I installed a Lutron motion sensor switch in my garage.  I noticed later that one of my exterior outlets that is in the garage circuit stopped working.  So I plugged a Sperry GFCI tester into the outlet and completely disconnected the Lutron in the garage and pigtailed the blacks together and the whites in such a way so that the Sperry plugged into the exterior outlet showed 'normal'.  However I just could not figure out how to connect the Lutron back.  At this point I noticed that the garage light that is controlled by the Lutron switch was showing a short.  When I use a Multimeter and touch the two terminals on the bulb holder they show a short.  I thought maybe I got the wiring wrong again, so I removed all the connections I had made in the switch receptacle (where the Lutron was to have gone)and then checked for the short at the bulb again and I was surprised to see that the short still was present.  Any idea why this is happening?
Some other information - I notice that the breaker for the garage in the breaker panel is wobbly.  There is also a GFCI outlet in the garage circuit and I have tried resetting that but it makes no difference.  Some questions I have are:

Could a problem anywhere in the house cause this short?  Or should I look only in the garage circuit?
There are 3 blacks and 3 white wires along with a bare copper in the switch outlet controlling the garage light where I had initially installed the Lutron.  How should the pigtails be in this outlet?  If I tie all my blacks together then I get power on two of the 3 whites.  I know which black goes to the garage light (used a tone generator to find this with the breaker off) but I am flummoxed at this point regarding the short.

Any help would be great.


texts: Should there be a gap when adding insulation in a wooden outbuilding?

texts:
I'm currently in the middle of a home office project.

It's a simple wooden outbuilding and I'm insulating it with polystyrene sheets. Once they are in, I'll go over them with with some tongue and groove.

My question is, should the polystyrene cover all possible surface area, or should there be gaps to allow airflow? (Ventilation I'm dealing with separately).  Also is there anything I need to do before I start sticking the sheets directly onto the walls?

My options are:

Tight

Loose

'Throw it in'


texts: What is the name of this part of an old window?

texts:
I am in the process of restoring old windows. These are original to the house and hence from 1940. Windows have these plastic or metal ventilation plugs, here are two pictures:

The problem is some of the windows miss these parts, and I would like to replace some of the older ones. I, however, have no idea what these parts are called. I tried to google some random terms (such as vent plugs for wood windows) but did not find anything.

So, what is the official name of this part? and it is possible to buy a replacement?


texts:
I have a two bulb set up with a dimmer switch. Both of these were non led bulbs. So i went on and replaced the bulbs with led. Now when i turn the switch off, one of the bulbs stays on with the dimmest light.

Are special light bulbs required for this setup. Is anyone familiar with this kind of setup? Btw the bulbs will work fine if i replace just one of them with led and the other one remains as is (non-led).


texts: Leaking valve connection, recent shower install

texts:
Shower is on second floor, I noticed wet spots in first floor ceiling. I opened the shower trim and found the drip on the left copper connection to the valve. I shut down water in the house.

I assume that pipe needs to be reinstalled to the valve and thus I need to remove the tile.

I want to ask perhaps there are better methods to fix it.

Thank you


texts: Proper gutter downspout location on sloped ground for shed

texts:
I built a shed last year on sloped ground, using concrete piers. I didn't get around to adding gutters, and was contemplating not doing it. But, the water seems to be eroding some areas of the soil around the shed (which I recently added mulch over), and leaving a faded line on the top step, as well as a faded line on the fresh mulch.
In the picture below, I am looking to add some flowers/medium sized plants on the right side of the steps. Is there any harm in adding the downspout at the high end of the slope so the water will run out in this area and give more water to the plants? And also, let the water disperse through the soil more at the high end, rather than two spouts pouring out at the low end. I was thinking putting the rear spout at the left side, and the front at the right. Or is it better to direct the water entirely away from the shed and put the down spouts on the left side? Looking for advice and another perspective on this in case I am missing something, or if the water running down from the high end would cause any issue down the line.
I do have a french drain in the center of the yard as well, which helps dissipate any middle standing water.


texts: How can I improve solid, plastered walls with minimal mess and cost?

texts:
The walls of my house, like many in this area, are pretty bad. Apparently a higher than normal amount of sand was used in the bricks and the mortar, and the plaster is very old and weak. Even putting in a nail to hang a picture on risks taking a large chunk out.
To make matters worse the previous owner covered the walls with woodchip/anaglyptic wallpaper which has been painted over half a dozen times. Woodchip is messy and difficult to remove at the best of times and I'm sure half the wall would come with it.
The obvious solution is to have the walls re-plastered, or have frames and plasterboard fitted. As much as I would love to do that (and get the place re-wired too) it's both expensive and extremely messy.
What other options are there? I'd like to end up with smooth walls suitable for painting and ideally some extra wiring for power and network. The skirting boards and ceiling coving really want replacing too but are less important.


texts:
I am going to replace the carpet in my three seasons porch with vinyl plank from Costco. I pulled up the carpet and found a layer of carpet underneath. Should I remove both, or could I install the plank over the bottom layer? I'd have to remove the tack strips. I'm worried there's a reason they didn't remove the bottom layer to begin with. It seems to be totally glued down.

Could I install the vinyl flooring over the top layer?


texts: Two lights & two switches, one light doesn't work?

texts:
Please could you advise me, why isn't second ceiling light working? Two lights and two switches, power does not appear to be going to second light, both switches are working. Have I wired first light which has three cables coming out of the ceiling incorrectly?

Hi. Landing ceiling lights one at either end of the corridor, two separate switches (one at each end of corridor) that work both lights. One light doesn't appear to have any power, possible wired the light as shown in picture incorrectly


texts: What is the best way to replace a large section of 3/4" plastered drywall?

texts:
I had some water damage at the base of a wall. I ended up tearing out the bottom half of the wall, about 55" high. I now need to close it back up.

The wall that I tore out is about 3/4" thick. It looks like it is 3/8" drywall with a healthy dose of plaster on top. What's the best way to butt another sheet of drywall up to it?

I have never plastered before, so I'd like to avoid that as much as possible. I'm thinking that I can just put some 1/4" shims/plywood on the studs, then screw some 1/2" drywall to it. The only question that leaves open is joining the edge of the drywall to the plaster.

The edge of the plaster that is still in place is not terribly clean. It's ok in some places, and other places it will leave a ~1" gap when I butt the new drywall against it. I'll assume that I'll need to fill in the gaps. Will joint compound suffice here, or should I pick up a small batch of plaster?

(As an aside, I should add that most of this work will be hidden behind cabinets. Only the top few inches of the work will ever be visible.)


texts: Structural impact of removing windows from formally exterior wall

texts: Our 1950s ranch on slab was added on to some time in the 1990s. A wall of rectangular windows that used to be a perimeter/outer wall, is now an interior wall. Surely it's structural, but are the windows integral to the structure? Can I remove the windows but keep the wood framing, and not risk the integrity? In photo, see 2 column grid of eight windows with blue wall of add-on space in distance. Thanks!


texts: Fixing a large (1/8"-wide) crack in a wood exterior door panel

texts:
This is a follow-up to my previous question: How can I fix a hairline crack in a thin wood panel of an exterior door?

While getting ready to apply wood glue (actually a mixture of wood glue and sawdust/sander dust) to the "hairline" crack in the door, I started scraping away spackling compound from  my previous repair so the glue could find wood to stick to.

But after scraping for a while I realized that my spackling repair was not the only one. The house's previous owner had apparently spackled and painted over a huge crack in the door. After removing all the spackling, the crack turned out to be 1/8" wide all the way through the 3/8" thick panel. The crack runs for 12" top to bottom. The crack is oddly consistent in width throughout, except for a small part at the top where a thin chunk of wood is still in place on the inside.

Here's a picture. I put blue tape temporarily over the outside crack to prevent water damage and chilly winds while I figure out how to fix this.

Should I try to stuff a 1/8"x3/8" shim into the crack and glue it in place? If yes, what glue to use for a high-vibration, non-clampable, and exposed-to-direct-sun (under black paint) area like an exterior door panel?

If a shim is not advisable, what are other good options to fill such a large crack?


texts: Can I add a new plumbing vent rather than extending to an existing one?

texts: Can I run a separate 2 inch vent pipe from the kitchen sink through the roof? Moving sink 8 feet away from original spot to under a window. I cant drill all those studs to extend vent pipe, so I was hoping to just shoot a 2 inch pipe up beside the window through the roof just for kitchen sink.


texts: What does a Mitre Saw offer that a Table Saw does not?

texts:
I have a range of MDF Panels and strips of Solid Wood that I would like to turn into Picture Frames.  As such, each piece of MDF/Wood will need to have a 45-degree angle cut into each end.

In order to achieve such cuts, I have been looking at the purchase of various Mitre and Table Saws.  I can see that with the assistance of a Mitre Gauge, the Table Saw is able to complete such a task.

With this in mind, I was wondering what a Mitre Saw provided that a Table Saw did not.

I am new to Woodwork but it seems that a Mitre Saw is limited to 1 task whereas the Table Saw is able to perform a variety of tasks.  Am I overlooking something here?


texts: Installing pull chain ceiling fan w/ light fixture. Two brown wires, two black wires, one red at the ceiling junction

texts:
Any ideas how to install?
Just moved into an older home (built 1950s). Owner planned to install a new ceiling fan, but didn't get to it. Wondering which wires should attach to which...and if any wires should be left out and just capped off. Thanks for the direction and guidance.

Truly,


texts: How can I add a light fixture to a three-way circuit by connecting to the switch?

texts:
I would like to add a new light fixture to a 3-way circuit in my stairway. The new light will be closer to the second switch and therefore would like to wire it from there (the other fixture is in the ceiling of the second floor - so pretty far away).

The current circuit is as the following diagram:

(source: buildmyowncabin.com)

How can I connect my second fixture on the second switch? Can I use the ground of my romex between the two 3-way switches to pass the neutral for my light?


texts: Are all toilet bolts installed from under the floor?

texts:
My mom has an older toilet. When is became loose, in order to tighten the bolts she had to hire someone to go under the house.

We just got a new toilet. I was hoping to install it as a d.i.y project. In this case, will someone need to go under the house in order to install the new floor bolts that came with the purchased toilet? Or should we be able to place them from inside and tighten them?


texts: Half hot receptacle and the regular receptacle: always hot receptacle controls (powers) other power receptacles down the line . What's throwing him off (Mr) is there are black and white wires crimped together and grounds crimped together. I've included pictures below and I'm not sure if they're of any help though. I can take more and or explain betterenter image description here


texts: How do I get the globe off this ceiling fan?

texts:
I have tried pulling down on the globe thinking the metal clasps were holding the globe with tension. I've tried turning the globe but the whole base turns when I do that.
I'm not sure what brand it is so I am including a picture.
Thanks for any help!


texts: Replacing a door's glass panel with a wood panel

texts:
I basically have the following type of back door:

The problem is that my girlfriend moved in with me. Well not, really, her dog did and we need to install a pet door. The problem is I need the first row of glass to be made of wood in order to be able to install the door in.

I thought of replacing the bottom row of glass with wood panels, then once they set, cutting into them to fit in the door.

What kind of wood should I use to make sure that it is weather proof. Assuming this isn't a dumb idea.


texts:
I will be installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet/socket for my Level 2 EV charger.

On average, it'll be about one connect-disconnect cycle a day.

To avoid wear, I'd like to install a two-phase switch that will disconnect this NEMA 14-50 outlet. (also it'll be much more convenient to use a switch as pulling this plug might be hard, especially for my wife)

It has to be a two-phase switch, rated to at least 250V / 50 amps.
Since it'll be inside of a garage, it doesn't have to be weather-proof.

Spent an hour in Internet, and closest match I found is this -

but this one is only 20amps.

Also on an Australian web site found interesting switch+socket combined:

- although it would be ideal, I don't expect to find one for NEMA 14-50 outlet.

So any ideas for just a two-phase switch rated for 50 amps would be greatly appreciated. Can be either for surface or flush mounting.


texts: How should I restore these cames in leadlight window?

texts:
I would like to restore the cames in these windows.  I am unsure which metal they are made from. How do I go about this?

This is a picture from the outside which has been exposed to the weather (including salt air):

This is a picutre on the inside:

Should this be polished or painted or sanded back?


texts:
I think I burned out one digital time switch and don't want to damage the replacement I bought. Can someone take a look at the diagram I drew and complete the wiring?

The wiring diagram that came with the 'Woods in wall digital timer, model 59018/59028', is nothing like that in my fixture.

I have the timer fitted inside, next to my front door. It is to control the outside front porch light, where there is also a single pole-double throw on/off switch.

I'd be very grateful if someone would lend a hand and tell me which wires I need to connect to the timer, given the existing wiring shown in my diagram.


texts:
I have a table saw that can accommodate a 3/8" dado stack.

I need to cut 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep dados in a 3/4" thick delrin sheet. The table saw is the only tool I have that can really do something like that.

What kind of blades do I need and can I stack them?

It's a 10" blade at 5000 rpm, is that speed appropriate for cutting delrin? How fast should I feed it? I'm prepared to trim sloppy edges I just don't want the saw to bind.


texts: Measure flange distance from wall without removing toilet

texts:
I want to install a new toilet. However, I need to get a new one first and I have to know the distance from the wall to the center of the flange. Therein lies the problem. How can I measure this distance without removing the toilet? Do the screw areas of the toilet align with the center of the flange?

I know the standard is usually a foot, however this doesn't quite look like it is that much.


texts:
We just had new carpet installed. My once quiet floor
now squeaks all over. Prior to our last carpet install we'd screwed everything down and it was perfect.
The only thing I can think is that they removed the prior screws for some reason. Otherwise is there anything they could've done during install to damage the plywood undernearth to make them squeak so much? It did sound like they were rolling bowling balls during install.


texts: Is this safe extractor fan wires exposed bathroom

texts: We have had an extractor fan put in our bathroom by our landlord, but there are exposed wires behind the fan, which is directly next to the shower. It's connected to the light switch with no isolation on or off with the light. Is this safe, the wire is red. picture is the top of the fan thanks


texts: Can I run data cables in the same cabinet as a service panel?

texts:
If the power panels inside my home are all enclosed (no exposed live wiring anywhere), am I allowed to route my data cables and coax to a router and (data distribution hardware) housed in the same room and wood back panel in which my power panel resides or do I need to house it separately?

It is situated in a door sized cavity of 2 feet deep with a normal door to close it. There is about 4sqft of open space on the wood back planes on the bottom.

I don't want to do work that an inspector will reject. I read all the codes and the relevant posts on this site, but want an honest opinion, preferably qualified. This is what I read.

Thanks.


texts: Hot Tub/Spa 70A Subpanel/Electrical Disconnect Box Wiring

texts:
I will be installing a Caldera Cantabria hot tub soon and need to run the electrical from my main panel to the GFCI sub panel. I will be installing a non-GFCI 70A circuit breaker in my 200A main service panel. I will need to run the two hot wires, neutral and ground wires approximately 55-60 feet from my main service panel in the front of my basement to the side and then the back of my basement and then finally outside. I am planning on mounting the Subpanel/Disconnect box on the back of the house approximately 1-3 feet after the wires exit the basement to the outdoors. The hot tub will be at least 5 feet away from this, but probably about 6-8 feet away. It will still be within the line of sight.

I have attached a picture of the wiring diagram provided by the manufacturer. Can I use #6 wires from my main panel to my sub panel like the wiring diagram says that I can? Or does it need to be #4 wire? Also what type of wire should be used for this application? The majority of the run with be indoors in the unfinished basement ceiling area, but I will need to run the wire in conduit outside for approximately 1-3 feet.

The sub panel has 2 20A GFCI breakers and then one 30A GFCI breaker. Wiring the 2nd 20A breaker is optional, but required if you wish to use the 3rd dedicated pump for the lounge seat at the same time as the heater. I live in New England so I figured in the winter time the heater will most likely need to run at the same time as we are using the hot tub. I figured it is worth it to wire the 70A option with the 3rd breaker over the 50A wiring with 2 breakers and do it right the first time. I am planning on using copper wiring and not aluminum.

Thank you!


texts:
Want to remove wall (picture with x on wall) coming through kitchen horizontally (backside facing living room with photos on it). Would leave wall in place beside it. Removing would make a 15 ft walk through opening between that wall and back wall. (Red arrows are where truss “beams” in the attic meet above the center hall walls all the way down. Yellow arrows show where basement posts below are directly under (so these are definitely bearing most of the weight.)

(Large panoramic picture very distorted, marked walls run directly parallel to each other. Center wall with photos I want to take out. If wall was taken out there would be 25 ft between living room back wall and back wall of kitchen.

(Basement photos w tile flooring. Wall directly above basement bedroom wall.)

Photo of attic. Roof is steeper than “average”. Middle supports of attic seem to run along center hall walls all the way down (these run directly under with the highest peak of the roofline perpendicular to joists all the way from one end of the house to the other definitely load bearing.)

This particular wall runs parallel with ceiling joists...however I believe (I’ll have to measure) the basement bedroom walls may run directly beneath this one (those go wall to wall across the basement so wondering if this distributes some weight to the wall below.  This wall is above maybe a third of the basement bedroom interior walls below.)

Does it seem to be load bearing?
There would “only” be a 15 ft gap between the (possible) hallway  load bearing wall and the back living room load bearing wall.
Basement supporting beams run below my center hallway walls so again suspecting those are carrying the bulk of the weight. Again they run opposite the joists and they run all the wall from end to end right below the roof peak and the truss “beams” seem to meet at the point running along the center hall.
We are in Virginia, tornados are concerns here. Occasionally “light” hurricanes. Main concerns are tornados. I want to make sure removing the wall doesn’t weaken the overall strength of the house.
The opening between the living room and kitchen if you note, there’s no header beam across. (Does this suggest its just a partition wall?) Notice my hallway walls (definitely bearing weight can tell from the attic) these walls have headers above the walkthroughs.
On the other side of the wall there are cabinets hanging which I’m hoping it was simply put in for more cabinet space in the design. (Hoping hoping, praying.....)
This wall is the bane of my existence. I cannot see the living room from any angle as I cook. My kitchen feels like a little box of cabinets.
Any suggestions on what it is, and cheapest alternatives to take this section out to open a space between living room and kitchen.

If my pictures look like a football playbook I apologize. I obviously can’t work a smart phone to type on a photo, not sure if I should be messing with removing walls. Engineering level work. I probably shouldn’t touch most of the diy projects that I do . Just trying to not collapse the house is all. Any help is appreciated!

[3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uehqv.jpg


texts: Why does my shower head stop abruptly after a few minutes?

texts:
Recently my shower has been stopping after a couple of minutes. The tub faucet is fine, water pressure everywhere else in the house is fine. I get city water if that matters. I checked my shower head and it's good.

Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this and how to fix it?


texts: How can I tell if a remnant of granite matches my counter?

texts:
I have a kitchen island with a granite countertop which, for various reasons, I would like to make larger. I found a granite company which has a remnant of granite that would match the size I'd like.

The problem is, how do I tell whether it will match my other countertops? My counters are a pretty common granite 'pattern' (brown, black, and white splotches; very similar to this), and they all match perfectly. The piece they have looks very similar, but it's very hard to tell. I went to look at it with pictures of my counters, and looked at my counters with pictures of the remnant. But pictures are really bad at showing color, and I just can't tell.

I don't know if this is a question for diy, but can anyone figure out some way I can tell if it'll match? I assume they won't cut me a sample because that's a big job to do just for the possibility of maybe selling a remnant, plus that'll make the remnant smaller - in case I decide not to buy it, it might be harder to sell to someone else.


texts: Will internal waterproofing solve my moisture problems?

texts:
We've been working on our water problem for awhile now.

Here's the deal:

There is black drain tile under the home (all the way around) tied into a sump crock. Water was only coming in one side. A camera through the tile showed us it's not laid right, like a mini roller coaster, so there are spots for many feet that are full of old standing water that won't come out. About 1/3 of the system is working and taking water to the sump. Where it's not working, water comes in where the wall meets the floor.. It's hit or miss with when and how much.

Instead of redoing what's there, we are having a Sure-Dry system (affiliated with Badger Basement but cheaper) put in along the inside perimeter. They remove cement, lay this perforated piece that looks like rain gutter almost, but has a high back on it. The back will go along the basement wall to catch any water that may run down the walls as well as any water that would normally come in at the floor along the wall. It goes to their sump pump and will head far out into the backyard.

This is being done tomorrow.

My basement has no water in it right now but is very very damp. I have mold growing on the floor along the perimeter. It smells pretty bad down there as well. We run a small dehumidifier which will get us to low humidity but if it stops for a few hours, it's right back up there again quickly. The bedroom feels damp. It's almost like the blankets feel cold and heavy, but not necessarily wet.

My question is since there's no water inside right now and the dehumidifier runs, will this type of waterproofing system eventually help the cement floor dry out? The basement is supposed to be finished again in August. It was previously, but we ripped it out to do repairs. I'm thinking there's so much water under the house, that even though it's not rising right now to come it at the places it normally does, it's still wicking moisture up through the floor along the edges. Or maybe the slab itself is still holding water until things can get dried out. When they put their system in, they will be filling the old sump crock pit so that entire old system will be out of commission.

Neillsville WI is clay type dirt as you go deeper. I think we're sitting in a mud pit but am worried the system I'm putting in will only address the water coming in but won't help what's under the house dry out over time.

I will be cleaning with an antimicrobial cleaner before refinishing. I don't know if I should put anything additional down on the floor before laying carpet again (no pad).

Thank you for your time everyone! Now that I've learned they drill weep holes into the wall, i'm fairly certain this process will dry most of my water out in the ground as well as help my slab dry once we get the water moving. I think it will be longer than just a few days. It's going to take some time for the water to move in, pump out and eventually dry out. :) You've all been very helpful!


texts: What techniques can be used to buff a stainless steel sink?

texts:
Hypothetically, say I was too aggressive using a bucket in a new stainless steel sink.

Hypothetically, say the sink now has some scratches.

I used an oxalic acid based cleanser (Bar Keepers Friend), scrubbing in the direction of the grain.  Sink cleaned up nicely, but the scratches were barely dented (scratched).

How is the grain originally put into the sink?  I would assume a wire wheel.  I would think metal buffing compound would make the surface TOO smooth.

Any tips or techniques would be appreciated.


texts: Sound proof window arrangements with double windows

texts:
I am interested in understanding the key factors in sound proofing a window.

I once stayed in an old hotel (built about 1815) in New York City on Canal Street and the room was absolutely silent which may be hard to believe for anyone who has been to Canal Street, but it was actually perfectly silent.

The reason for this was that the windows were doubled (not double pane); ie there were two layers of windows. The outer window was some kind of tempered glass and was sized exactly to the outer frame of the window and had been caulked into place. The inner windows were the original casement windows from the 19th century. Due to the thick width of the window frame there was a separation of perhaps 10 inches between the air tight window on the outside and the inner window.

I have been in houses with normal modern double paned windows and they are definitely not sound proof, so I am wondering what was special about the arrangement in the hotel. My guesses are:

(1) The outer window was absolutely airtight, but modern windows are not perfectly air tight but have joints and so forth that let sound past, and that made the difference.

(2) The distance between the panes was 10 inches and for some reason that is far more effective than two panes that are close together.

Does anybody know if either of these two factors (or another) is what is critical in making a window sound proof?


texts:
We have this giant brick fireplace in a home we just purchased.  As part of our renovations, we plan on covering the brick with tile and putting a simpler mantel on top.  The hearth and surround was brick and the sides and top edge of the brick was covered by the old mantel.

We removed the brick hearth and had just planned on just covering the old brick surround with tile.  When we removed the mantel, we discovered that the builder hadn't finished the brick surround fully because it would be covered by the edges of the old mantel.

Whats the easiest way to ... 'fill in' the unfinished area so we can tile over it.


texts: Can I repair light scratches on a laminate countertop?

texts:
I was foolish and scratched my laminate countertop, which I would like to repair. Everything I have found online shows solutions for filling in chips (or deeper cuts), mainly in laminate that has a uniform colour. My counter top varies in colour, and the scratches appear to only be in the top coating, so I am hoping there is another solution.

If I wipe a damp cloth over the scratches the all but disappear, but once it dries again the scratches reappear.

Is there something I can do to recreate how it looks once damp, but permanently?


texts: Clunking sound when ground water heat pump stops running

texts:
This clunking sound is one loud sound followed by a few smaller clunks.  It seems to be coming from the water supply pvc pipe that supplies water to the heat pump in the basement.  The sound starts near the heat pump and runs back towards the bladder tank 25 feet away where the water supply enters the basement. A 1/2 hp submersible pump supplies the water from a depth of about 40 feet.  I have secured the supply pipe to the floor joists, but the noises persists.  This system is almost 20 years old. It has only been making loud noises the last couple weeks.

Could this be caused by air trapped in the pipe?  If so, what is the remedy? Thanks


texts: Confused on what AC Unit to purchase and install?

texts:
I am replacing a 30 year old AC unit and I have had 4 estimates.  2 of the 4 people did not even take any measurements and the other two took a lot of measurements.  I am leaning towards the ones that took measurements, but they are giving me two options.  I live in Florida.  Here are the two options:

3.5 tons 13 seer straight cool
3.5 tons 13 seer heat pump

What is the difference between the above two?

Does anyone know some important questions I could ask the installers to see which one maybe more qualified or knowledgeable in installing the unit

I found paperwork on the house and it indicates that a 3.5 ton was installed in 1984.

The two people that did not measure apparently were salesmen.

One from sears told me this:

OK great give me a call or send me an email when you ready. You currently have a 2 Ton and I can see going to above 1/2 ton more or a max 1 Ton more not 1 1/2 Tons more. I will install what you want, and our system and service will be better than any company out there. When you contract with Sears you don't get a lot of plastic and thin metals you get a good quality system that will last.

I don't understand how Sears can tell me I have a 2 ton when I have a 3.5 ton. Something smells fishy here?


texts: Can I run a pressure washer without detergent in the tank?

texts:
I've read through two manuals on two different pressure washers and neither of them actually say flat out that you must not run the pressure washer with the detergent tank being empty.  They both say using detergent is optional and that I'm not to use the detergent unless I'm using the lower pressure nozzles.

My main concern is air being pulled in the line from an empty detergent tank. Any thoughts?


texts: Trying to Determine if Attic Braces and Collar Ties are Structural

texts:
I have a 1924 house. The attic has 2x4 ceiling joists with 1x4 collar ties about 80" above the joists.  The slope of the roof is 20/12.  Below the collar ties there are two crossing 1x4 braces that are nailed, on each end, to the 2x4 rafters with 3 nails each. The braces seem to be resting on the top plate of the 2x4 walls (16 oc), but are not connected to the top plate.  You can see a picture of the braces and collar ties here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5hgKW1CXf-ZeThwQmZFSFQzems/view?usp=sharing

I'm wondering if there's a way to tell, based on the photo and info above, whether these braces and/or collar ties are structurally necessary (maybe this is a 1924-version of a truss?), or if they're potentially left over from the original construction before the roof was completed.

One final note... When I push on the braces they are pretty flexible. Not sure that means anything, but I guess my thought is that they'd be more rigid if they were under material tension.

Thanks for the opinions!


texts: How do I fix a squeaky carpeted floor given that scored screws don't help?

texts:
My flooring--second story, carpeted--squeaks.  I tried the scored screws solution answered in this question.  I covered the entire room and adjacent hallway with scored screws on all the joists, every 6 inches, per the instructions.  After the fix, the squeak still exists, but walking around the room/hallway, the squeak now seems to be more localized--specifically, the sound emanates from the edge where the wall meets the floor.  I can walk in the middle or the side of the room and the sound still comes from the edge.

How do I fix (or verify) the cause the squeak?  I'm happy to provide more info; but I'm not even sure how to proceed to gather more information.


texts: Framing Advice - Removing Shower Opening

texts:
Finishing up demo on our master bathroom and working towards plans to get it all back together. Located on the top floor of our split level, over the laundry room.

The existing entry to the shower was fully tiled, floated over metal lath. The shower ceiling was built down approx. 12" from the bathroom ceiling and it felt like a tiled bomb shelter.

The ideal plan is to remove the entry completely and have the ceiling and walls flush into the shower area.

My question is - the shower opening looks to be framed out as a load bearing opening. Is the case?

This wall runs parallel to the joists above (attic). The wall is not centered directly under one of the joists, but is running just next to one. There is a drop ceiling below this bathroom, and nothing in the ceiling indicates to me that it's bearing - it is not over another wall or over a joist.

My hope would be to have everything flush in the end and that would require only a couple new studs to finish out corners in the long run.

I'm 99% sure it was framed this way for the tile installation... but better safe than sorry.


texts: Is it better to splice outlets into a run, or to run a branch?

texts:
I have an electrical line running through the joists of a basement storage room.  It runs near an area where I’d like to put a couple of 2-gang outlets, but not immediately past.  I was thinking about rerouting the line to go past where I want the outlets, and splicing them into the line.

Is it better to splice in a junction box and run a branch off the existing line to the two new outlets, or would splicing the outlets into the existing run be better?  I’m starting to think the former would be better, since it lets me run whatever length of wires I need and I don’t have to worry about whatever’s downstream of the new outlets, but I figured I ask people more knowledgeable than I.


texts: How can I make sure my pex line is sloped so I can drain it?

texts:
I'm running a cold-water pex line in a basement crawlspace that gets extremely cold (i.e. freezing) in the winter.

I'm going to use a drainable ball-valve inside the house so I can drain it in the winter but how can I run the pex line to make sure it's sloped?  The run is about 25 feet long.

I think I have two options:

1) Run it through floor joists (requires a hole in every joist since my line is running perpendicular to them)

2) Run it under the joists and use clamps and wood shims under each joist to achieve a slope.

I'm leaning towards #1 but to make sure I have a good slope I think I'll need to measure my holes to make sure the line is actually sloping.  For example, I thought I would measure a certain distance from the joist to the floor above to make sure my holes are actually sloping down.

Any other suggestions?

(NOTE: This question is sort-of a follow-up to this:  Do I need to angle/pitch pex tubing for draining in the winter?)

Thanks!


texts:
I have a large double glazing unit (1220mm x 610mm) that I would like to use in a new external door I'm making out of red grandis hard wood.

I plan on rebating the glazing surround, leaving the "frame" part of the rebated section on the inside of the door and then adding beading to the outside to hold the glass in.

My question is about the thickness of the rebate and beading. I'm being cautious and have a 15mm rebate and left 20mm for the beading – is this too much? The overall door width ends up at 60mm, and I think that might be far too thick / heavy.

What is the smallest recommended for an external door with 25mm double glazing?

These pictures might help explain it:

Inside: 20mm "frame" or "lip" left over after the rebate

Outside: 15mm left over to attach beading to, that will hold the glass in.


texts: Ideas for plugging a hole in granite vanity

texts:
I got a nice piece of granite for cheap, and I am almost ready to mount it on the new vessel is actually smaller than the dimensions!

See below:

Any suggestions? Ideally I want to find a sink that will fully cover the hole, but so far my searches on Amazon.ca (I am in Canada) don't look promising - they are mostly curved and apparently just like the one in  pictures, the dimensions mentioned are of the top part, not of the base! I am not sure if the largest one I found so far would cover it fully in the base...

Edit:To explain why top mount and undermount is not suitable: the vanity its supposed to mount on(unfinished, unpainted yet):


texts: Why doesn't new dimmer switch brighten completely?

texts: I just replaced an old Pass and Seymour slide dimmer switch with a Lutron single pole switch with a side toggler. I'm using incandescent bulbs. The new switch dims the lights fine, but when I slide all the way to the top, the light is not as bright as it was with the previous dimmer in max position. I'd estimate it's 70-80% of previous max brightness. Any idea why this happening?


texts:
Wanting to build a pergola to cover a deck that will be connected to my house ledger board.

Constraint is the deck size and not wanting to put a post in the middle of the deck.
Details:
- planning cedar wood
-Two 6x6 posts 10 feet apart with a double 2*10 beam.
-Rafters (16inch on center)- House to beam distance 19 feet
Wanted to get people's thoughts on the rafter sizes to ensure I don't get any sagging. Was hoping 2*10 to match the beams.
Thoughts?


texts: How to mate two pressure-treated 2x6s together?

texts:
I want to mate two 2x6s pressure-treated boards (span = 8') so that I can use them as a beam for my ground-level floating deck.

Should I use a construction adhesive? Anything special given that the boards are pressure treated?
What should I use: screws, bolts?
What is the recommended spacing between screws? how many screws at each mark?
Screw / bolt length?

TIA

[Edit] For clarification, by mating I mean joining them together such that two 2x6s become a single 4x6.


texts: Is there a freezing-water-resistant metal pipe?

texts:
I want to install a water outlet on the outside of my house for gardening etc. Outside temperatures here in Latvia fall to -25°C sometimes, so I cannot use a common water pipe; it would burst when the water freezes. Is there a formula to tell how thick the pipe wall must be compared to the water volume inside the pipe, so that the pipe would withstand the force of frozen water expanding. Are there water taps that are strong enough?

Are there other solutions that do not require heating?


texts: Cannot remove the Delta kitchen faucet spigot from the base

texts:
I have a Delta kitchen faucet that began leaking many months ago.   I tried to fix it today so I'm following instructions online that tell me to take out the spigot so the o rings can be replaced. Unfortunately, this spigot wont come out. I've tried pulling it straight up, tried prying it out, tried using wd40 on the bottom since it does lift out for a small gap then wont move any further.

On the back there's a word that says C 150 series. I see no screws or anythign of the sort to take out the spigot, and twisting clockwise or counterclockwise does nothing.

How do I get the spigot out in this case to gain access to the O-rings?


texts: How can I wire a receptacle to a switch?

texts:
I have an empty double gang box on my patio.  I have a 12/2 wire which is hot coming into it. There's an underground PVC pipe going about 25 ft away, to a single gang box near an outdoor pond.

What I'd like to do, is have a GFCI on the patio, and a switch to control the pump in the single gang box some 25 ft away.

I thought a GFCI to a switch, to a downstream GFCI.

I cannot figure this out for nothing!

I currently have power to the empty box on patio & a GFCI near the pond, that's wired on the line terminals.

Pump for pond works fine when wired directly but won't as soon as I add a switch or GFCI.
Hopefully this makes sense to what I got going, envision & any help at all would be very much appreciated


texts: Building a deck... Sanity check on Menards deck builder

texts:
I have a question about what Menards is proposing. Is something like this legal?
I would think that the last joist (in purple) would require more than a single connection point over the red post and blue beam.
Isn't this some sort of violation of the cantilever?  Or does the rim joist play into things?


texts: Copper pipe through cinder block wall: corrosion issue

texts:
The pipe in the picture runs from my oil tank through my basement wall and to the outside (guessing it's the vent pipe for when they fill the tank).

Should I be concerned about what it going on at the pipe/wall interface? The white stuff is very crumbly.

Any advice on how to remedy or prevent from getting worse.

Thank you.


texts: What could be causing water pressure to build up after changing my under sink filter?

texts: After I did a routine under sink water filter change, I am getting a powerful burst of water when I turn on the water dispenser that goes through the filter. It lasts only a second or so then the pressure drops to a slower flow. I removed the filter and looked for clogs or debris but didn't see any. It is the same filter that I previously had under the sink. I am concerned that the filter may not be working properly.


texts: this part that connects to the gutter downspout is a cap of some sort that goes over a receiving part that goes to sewer drains. I'm not sure what it is called. My home was built in the late 1920s. I'm wondering if there is a more modern replacement for this part or a better way to redo and seal this because I think it sometimes backs up during heavy rain and leaks into the basement. You can see it doesn't make a complete seal. Thank you.


texts:
I've started a playhouse for my kids on a figure-it-out-as-I-go basis, and I finally hit the point where I'm recognizing how little I know about what I'm doing.
My specific question is what's my best option for a floor.
My first thought was to use SYP 2x6x10s, then I started worrying about how much weight that adds and thought SYP 1x6x10s, but I'm finding that those are hard to come by plus I don't really see anyone else doing that. It looks like most folks use plywood, but I need this to stand up to weather without a roof on it for a few months to a year, as we sort of build this through different iterations for different seasons of our kids lives. This first phase is going to be sort of an open air play deck with a climbing wall where they can make their own little tents and up there, on just an elevated deck surrounded with safety rails.
What I've got so far:
Pressure treated 4x4s, set in concrete 2 feet deep, three on one side and two on the other in an 8x10' perimeter, surrounded with 2x6's connected on the 10' side with half inch bolts at the corners, and on the 8' side with 3.5" 5/16 lag screws. My joists are 8' 2x4s at 17 inches on center, hung with joist hangers tapped in with 6 2.5" nails per hanger, and two 3.5" deck screws on each end. On the end with three 4x4 posts, a climbing wall to the top made of SYP 2x8x8s attached with 3.5" 5/16 lag screws.
Have I made any terrible errors so far?
What should I use for flooring?


texts: How to check and turn on pilot light of this water tank?

texts:
I have never done this before but the gas line was turned off briefly and now we have no hot water.

Look like the pilot light went out on this but I have no idea how to see the light and how to turn it on.

I looked on the internet and it said to turn to pilot and push down but it didn't do anything

Looking for advise. Thank you


texts: How do I Clean and Seal Laminate floors?

texts:
My home has laminate (but appears wood) floors, and I want to emulate what we did in the Military, but I don't know any of the product names (just the slang, Sealer)

I have use Linseed Oil on hardwood floors in the past, and really liked the what I got out of it.

Can I use Linseed Oil on my floor to the same effect, or is there a better product to help protect my floors? (Side note: I don't care about the floors look, I care about keeping the material from becoming damaged)

Also, given the suggested protectant: What would be the best way to clean those now-sealed floors?


texts: What's the best method to chalk a line parallel to a wall?

texts:
I have read some great listings on setting a chalk line but remain with a question ... if you are trying to get the line to run perfectly parallel to a wall, it is for hardwood flooring, so that the line will be parallel to a wall that may not itself be at a right angle, and/or uneven, how do you do this?  If I use the wall to measure out, say a half inch, and the wall is not straight, by the time I get to the other side of the room I may end up with boards that are all not perfectly parallel to the wall.

Help!


texts: Where can I get electrical plans for my new house?

texts:
I'm planning a few upgrades to the wiring in my condo that will require filing plans with the city.  It would make my life a lot easier if I had the existing electrical plans (and probably other systems, too).  The condo is new construction and I bought it from the builder.

Is it customary for the builder to provide copies of the plans if requested?


texts: Proper way to ground a 240v metal outlet box?

texts:
I am replacing the circuit to our stove and am doing the rough in currently. We may one day want a stove requiring more amperage than our current 40 amps and so I am replacing with 6-3 w/ground. I have the wire stripped back and pulled into the metal receptacle box and am trying to find a code compliant way to connect the bare ground from the cable to both the outlet and the metal box. I have seen and read about numerous different ways to do this but don't know what is code compliant.
I have looked into purchasing a grounding pigtail and read that any grounding wire I purchase to help connect the metal box to the wiring and outlet needs to be 10 awg as this gauge is good as a grounding wire up to 60 amps. Because the 6-3 is good for 55 amps the 10 ash as a grounding wire is what I need. If I am wrong about this please let me know.
If I can go with a pigtail then...

where do I find a 10awg pigtail? I can only seem to find 12 awg pigtails.

If i can't find a 10 awg pigtail then is green insulated thhn wire in proper gauge acceptable?

how do I connect it all? Can both the pigtail and the bare ground from the wire be placed into the receptacle and screwed down or is there a different way I need to connect them?

Thank you for your input and if I left out any needed info please let me know.
Ben


texts: I have (foolishly) bought an oak spiral staircase on craigslist. I was able to use the treads OK, but I'm completely unable to fit the rail that came with it. So I need to construct a custom one. I'm open to wooden as well as metal rails or any other workable solution. Just hoping to get some ideas on how to proceed. What would you do in this situation?


texts:
I own a home heated with the wall mounted wall heaters that need to be cleaned every year. The way it's recommended to clean them is just simply remove the cover and vacuum out to the insides, if not blow out with compressed air. This is already been done last year at the beginning of the heat season, and it's time again. The initial startup of them always has their accustomed smell of burning off whatever remains on the elements after cleaning, which can still leave a bit of a stink initially. Some of them still have a smell even though they have been cleaned
This is a picture of perhaps the worst one, since it's got what looks to be soot coming out of the heater portion of it. This is one, as was all of  them were cleaned just prior to this showing up, with compressed air and a vacuum to keep the dust from flying everywhere which work pretty good, all contained within a cardboard box cut out.
My question is, is there a way to clean these after I remove the heater unit from the wall sleeve which is very easy to do, and disconnect from the power, better than simply blowing air through them at the most? Is there a solution of water and something that I can literally wash them in to get them virtually clean as possible? Of course I would allow them to dry before reinstalling and turning the power back on them, but it seems these things provide a little bit more smell than what's necessary, and since this has been the case for the past 2 years since we have owned the house and not knowing what situation the prior owner had, I would like to clean them in a way they will no longer give out any odor at least for a season. Replacement for all of them in the house would  be a costly proposition, so I really don't want to just simply buy new ones at about a $120 to $200 a piece, for the 9 or 10 I have in the house.
12-26 EDIT
This question stems from the spray that is available as a electrical contact cleaner or electrical cleaner of some sort. I was looking to use a larger volume to use to allow flooding of the areas needing cleaning
The parts I am only interested in cleaning are the coils at the least, including the fan area, but not the motor, at the most. If it was deemed plausible to clean the way I hope, the rheostat and fan motor would be protected from the process. I am aware of problems caused by water or a liquid being trapped in such places. My lack of concern may or may not be warranted about the rust that would form on the coils and perhaps the connections to the coils. It will only be a one time wetting, whatever the solution is that may be used, preferably something that will not cause rusting.


texts: Old construction, replacing light switch, bundled ground

texts:
I am replacing the light switch in my old home (1981). I can see that all grounds are at the back bundled together. Do I still have to legally connect the ground to the light switches' ground screw?

PS: The light on the ceiling is properly connected to the ground.


texts: Definitons of various sand, gravel, and rock products

texts:
There are various gravel and rock products for sale, but their names do not always mean what the layman thinks they do.  For instance, I ordered three tons of gravel, expecting the 5–15 mm rocks that are commonly used to surface driveways.  What I received was something I would describe as sand with pebbles.  I think what I wanted may be called “crushed, angular rock,“ but I'm still not sure.  (The vendor was nice enough to exchange it for me.)

So: what kinds of sand, gravel, and rock products are sold, what are they called in the trade, and what are they used for?  Pictures welcome.