texts: New fridge, fridge is warm, freezer is working fine

texts:
I just bought a new fridge, GE bottom freezer. I had to disassemble it to get it in the kitchen, in 1952 no appliance must have had a dimension greater then 31 inches, So I'm really not in the mood to start the fiasco again.

The freezer works, making ice and the ice is staying frozen. The fridge on the other hand doesn't. When you plug it in, the lights come on and it seems like it's working, but after 10 minutes the light(LED) doesn't come on and the fridge is a balmy 70F hours later. freezer is still at zero F.

It's under warranty, but I'm really not trying to have 2 fridges in a really cramped(11x11) kitchen any longer than I have too. Any ideas?


texts: Are these blue spots on stove coil cups poisonous Verdigris?

texts:
I live in the USA and have one of these stoves:

For me who comes from Europe, the design of these stove tops always baffles me compared to flat (metal or glass) stove tops seen across Europe (it seems to be losing a more energy, the materials rust easily, and it's always so hard to clean!). Today, I met with this strange situation where the cup under the coil, after I cleaned it, started showing scary blue spots:

Although these marks are very photogenic, I am afraid that they might be Verdigris.

Is it possible that the material used in stove cups would be that easily corroded that it actually produces poisonous substances such as Verdigris when cleaned?

Obviously this one is a bit old and might need changing - probably for one that is made out of a material that doesn't corrode that easily (I love spending money on this stuff! ❤ ), but if someone can confirm that these stains are not dangerous, I'll try and make it last a little longer. At least till I find a really cheap one that is rustproof on eBay (since I'm not really keen on giving to this "bad design makes the end user waste money having to fix stuff" philosophy).

Thank you for your help!


texts: Must I ground my dishwasher to a metal plate?

texts:
I bought a Bosch 800 Series Dishwasher Model SHP68T55UC to install into my year 2000 house. Whenever I read tutorials online for installing dishwashers, I see that the ground wire goes to a metal plate like so:

However, the instruction manual for my dishwasher never tells me to do that. It tells me to put all 3 wires into a box. The green ground wire never goes to the metal plate.

Here, I've followed the instruction manual. As you can see, I have a 3 pronged plug. The wall outlet under my kitchen sink also has 3 holes. I believe the 3 prongs correspond to the ground, neutral, and hot. Is this setup enough to ground my dishwasher? Why is virtually every other tutorial on the internet telling me to attach the ground wire to a metal plate? Is it because they assume you have a 2 pronged outlet with no grounding?


texts:
I have installed some drywall on a door frame that sits adjacent to an existing wall.
It ended up with the new wall not properly aligned with the existing wall as seen in attached pictures.
Any ideas on how I can address the same.
My intention is to create a seamless finish with the existing wall / new drywall
Thoughts / ideas appreciated.


texts:
My parents have a bunch of Anderson 400-series windows in a sun porch.  Below are pictures showing the problem.  The windows are no longer hung straight, causing them to drag on the frame and become very hard to close.  In the picture, there are four windows in groups of two (the right two are a set, the left two are a set)

I am not sure how just one window of each set doesn't work properly, especially because the entire unit is attached to the house via a nail flange on all four sides of the window.

What can I do to fix these windows so they operate as they're supposed to?

Please let me know what information I've left out that might be useful.


texts:
What is the latent heat loss of water with
a temperature of 5 degrees c in pipe with an outside air temperature of 0, -5 and -10? This is a 6" hdpe dr11 pipe exterior with no insulation.


texts: Finding out what light switches turn on or off

texts: I just bought my first house everything is going well except for there are 2 light switches on the side of the mantel that don't seem to turn anything on or off. There is a switch on the left side of the fireplace that turns the fireplace on and off. On the right there is a double switch, neither seems to do anything. How do I figure out what they turn off or on?


texts: Where can I find handle-operated flushbolts for French doors?

texts:
I am going to be building a set of custom interior French doors and would like one of them to latch into the door frame, while the other door is a normal door latch. However, I want the latching mechanism for the door frame to be operated by a door handle, rather than with those small levers at the top and bottom typically found on the door.

The reason for wanting one door to latch into the frame is simply so that the set of doors will remain closed if there is a cross breeze occurring between the rooms (which would want to push the doors open a bit).

Does anyone know a source for this kind of hardware, or at least what the proper term for this hardware is so I can search for it?


texts: Removing Price Pfister widespread bath sink outlet Model WL8-5 (mfg 2005)

texts:
I'm replacing a Price Pfister widespread faucet. I have removed the handles, but cannot figure out how to remove the center outlet. A tag on the hot valve says the model is WL8-50??. The last two characters are smudged but resemble 03, 08, 0P, 93, etc.
There is a brass t-connector/mixer connected to the center piece, and there are two hex shaped items: one on the bottom of the t-connector and one next to the sink surface (see photos).
I haven't seen any set screws, but undersink is a tight fit for me.
How do I get this thing out!


texts: Installing eco smart 27 with sub panel breaker box

texts: I’m installing a eco smart 27 tankless water heater, which requires (3) 8 gauge wire with (3) 40 amp double pull breaks. I am having to install a sub panel for this, and I am wondering what gauge wire do I use to supply power to the sub breaker box with the 8 gauge wires? Thanks in advance


texts: Can I put purple sheetrock over foam insulation?

texts: I have a metal building all above ground. It is not heated because we only use it in the summer. I have put 6 inches of foam in the walls (blue board) to keep it cooler in the summer. Some have told me don't use purple sheetrock because it will cause a double vapor barrier. Others have said use the purple because of it's properties. The building will be used for bathrooms. Thanks for any help you can give me!


texts: Drilling into outdoor stucco to hang bike

texts:
I'm interesting in hanging a bike hook up on my patio outdoors. My outdoor walls appear to be some kind of hard stucco, and I've run a magnetic stud finder over the whole wall and it's all magnetic, indicating to me that there's some kind of metal mesh underneath. Ideally I'd like to hang the hook high enough off the ground on the wall such that the bike doesn't rest on the ground, but if it's significantly easier to hang it such that I don't put that much weight on the hook I can do that.

What is the best way to drill into the wall and hang the hook? I have diamond tipped drill bits. I'm just not sure if there's some kind of plywood underneath or if I will hit the metal when drilling. Will I need some kind of expanding screw holder or will the wall be strong enough to hold the weight of the bike?

EDIT: Apparently I shouldn't be trying to damage my outdoor stucco, so it looks like I will be trying to find another way to hang the bike.


texts:
I've looked at a few videos about installing a new toilet and I've seen this types of connections:
Toilet either inserts and bolts to a base like this:

Or the S pan is inserted into another tube like this:

My own toilet however looks like this:

I have a hard time matching what I see with my own toilet with what I see online. I suppose at different times there were different methods. Does anyone know what am I dealing with in my case? I suspect that these days the seal is made of rubber and in the past they used something like silicon, which turned black over time. Thus the difference between 2nd picture and 3rd.
I have tried calling a few plumbers, but they seem to have plenty of work and are in no rush to assist me, so I'm thinking of connecting a new toilet myself if I can figure out the connection between the S pan and waste pipe.


texts: How to connect toilet flush valve chain with provided v-shaped connector

texts:
My husband has been fixing an older toilet in our house - it was leaking so we completely replaced all the seals on the tank and then we replaced some of the seals inside it - this is all working fine but as part of it, we got a new flush valve and chain, which came with a curly v-shaped piece of wire and we can't figure out how to actually attach the chain with the wire.
Here's an overview of the inside of our tank:

And here's the little v-shaped thing:

Here's the thing - I've been looking around and the best I've found is written instructions for how to connect it that mention shoving the v through the holes on the lever bar - and that part I understand - what I don't understand is how the chain connects to that without slipping off. Honestly, I think at this point what I need is an image that shows it because the written descriptions don't align with my attempts to use this connector.
On the Home Depot site, others seem confused about this as both the questions on the product page ask how to use it but the explanation is confusing to me.

The flush mechanism on the toilet handle has a bar with holes along the bar. Simply force the V shape clip through one of the holes so that the V faces down. If the old clip is still in place then on the plastic actuator, thread the chain UPWARD through the hole at the top of the plastic actuator leaving the BALL END "INSIDE" the actuator. Then thread the other end of the chain through the V shaped bracket and adjust the chain to the proper length by trial and error until the the toilet flushes properly.

This doesn't actually explain how the chain is supposed to be held by the V shaped bracket - when I run the chain through it, it seems too loose to be secure.


texts: What size conduit should I use for Coaxial and Ethernet?

texts:
I'm looking at feeding both a coaxial and an Ethernet(probable cat6A) cable too multiple locations in my house shortly.
I was wondering what size conduit should I use?


texts: Which colored layer is the orignal brass and what is the other colored layer?

texts:
I restored antique brass door knobs and plates.
This is what the brass looked like before restoration.

This is what the brass looked like after restoration.

The door knobs have a color mix of yellow and copper. The plates have mostly copper color.
Which color is supposed to be the original brass? And what or where is the other colored layer from?


texts: How much pressure should you apply when rolling on paint?

texts:
I hate painting, as I know many people do.  One of my issues has always been the streaks that are left on the wall.  I got to thinking that perhaps I'm applying too much pressure when I'm painting, and that's what is causing the streaks to show (even after a 2nd or 3rd coat).

So, how are SUPPOSED to paint?  Are you supposed to load the roller up with a bunch of paint and only apply light pressure?  Or do you just want to saturate (but not dripping) the roller and push a bit when rolling?

I know it's a simple question but I'm really bad at painting, that's all I can say.


texts: How to turn a pump on or off from any of 12 switches

texts:
I have a water pump at my home that I want to connect to 12 switches, so that each one of them can turn the water-pump on/off. Can it be done?

Thank you!


texts: Shower door rollers are offset by 4cm - is this normal or has someone bodged it?

texts:
Our shower door seems to be a bit of a bodge, or I'm searching for the wrong thing as I'm trying to replace the broken wheels on the top and bottom runners.
Simply the top wheels are on an attachment which extends from the top of the shower door, isn't inline with it but is infact 4cm above where the bolt goes through the door. This seems to mean most roller fittings won't fit the door.
Can anyone recommend a replacement roller that'd fit this kind of door? I've searched amazon and various other sites but nothing has come up yet (UK, if that matters tho right now I'd order internationally if something worked).


texts: How to drain a baseboard radiator system for a repair? How to refill the system?

texts:
I have a leak in the second zone in my baseboard radiator system.  When installing some drywall in the room the previous owners nicked the copper pipe with a drywall screw, and it appears to have rusted through the pipe.  I know I need to replace that section of pipe, but I can't solder the new piece in until the pipe is empty of water.

How can I get all the water out of the system, and when refilling, how do I fill the system back up and get any air out?


texts: Some of my 40yo T1-11 siding has warped leaving gaps at the bottom between it and the house. I think mice may be entering through these. I was told not to caulk because moisture might build up. Other than replacement are there options?


texts: How to add a new cable box to an existing stud wall

texts:
I need to wire in a new speaker volume adjuster and box into an existing stud wall. My worry is I am not sure if the speaker wire will be able to get to where I need it to go. This is because I am worried that the stud wall wood will get in the way.

If this were not yet plaster boarded, I could pre-drill any needed holes. The wall is freshly painted, so the less cutting the better.

How likely is it that the cable will be able to drop vertically down the wall if I insert it at the top of the wall? If not, what do I do to get the cable where I need it?

Top View

Please ask for more information is needed.

What are your suggestions?


texts: Receptical Box located In bottom kicthen cabinet

texts: We have a receptacle Box located in a bottom kitchen cabinet on the back wall with 1 white, 1 red, and 1 black wite. No ground. I wanted to add a plug to it and then took a closer look at what I was working with and that doesn't seem possible. Any ideas on what this is for? or if I can put a plug in? It's two cabinets from the right of the stove. The wires are usually capped just took off for pic. Nothing was attached before.


texts:
I purchased a RTH9585WF smart color thermostat to replace my mercury controlled thermostat. How do I add the blue common wire at the boiler relay where the two wire system is connected?
://i.stack.imgur.com/H6eN9.jpg


texts: Should I insulate air conditioner coolant pipes?

texts: I recently replaced some rotted insulation on the coolant pipe that runs out of my AC unit and into the evaporator in my house. When cleaning inside the actual AC unit itself I noticed that the coolant pipe running out of what I believe is the condenser (has a insulation blanket over it) is not insulated. Is there any reason not to insulate this coolant pipe? I traced the line and made sure that it is the same pipe that is insulated once it gets outside the AC unit.


texts: Master bedroom light switch is controlling the bathroom too?

texts: Ok so I’m changing out the old outlets switches from the 80’s cause they are old and yellow from age... and the outlets will occasionally spark when you put a plug into them.  They are all grounded and I have had no trouble with the outlets.  The master bedroom has 2 light switches on opposite walls that control the ceiling fan and light. They are single switches so both fan and light come on at the same time.  I replaced the switch on the far end of the room with a 3 way switch and all was good. It had 4 wires... ground , main line in, and the red and black traveler wires.  Then I re did the main switch that is at the bedroom door.  When I took the old switch out I thought it was odd cause it had 5 wires... one hot line in an intermittent hot Line in.. both are black... and then the red and black traveler wires and the bare ground wire.  When I hooked everything back up to my new 3-way I discover that the hot line in also controls the master bathroom... so when I turn this switch off there is no power in the bathroom... it didn’t do this befor... do I need a different type of switch? The one I took out looked like a normal switch.. except it had 4 quick connect holes instead of two... and they had used 3 of the quick connect and one of the side screws . Help! I don’t want to have to leave the bedroom light on to have light in the bathroom.


texts: Looking for the right thermostat- is it this hard

texts:
I want to do something that sounds really simple but cannot get a solid answer.
I'm looking to set it and forget it.
SW Pennsylvania sometimes one needs heat and cool the same day.
I have a dog living in the house that likes normal temps.
Here's what I want to do...
Set the thermostat at 70 degrees.
When the temp reaches 68 - it heats to 70
When the temp reached 72- it cools to 70
Without the need to manually switch between heat and cool on the T stat.
Is this possible?
Will the heat and cool cycles constantly work against each other given my scenario?
Forced air gas furnace, High efficiency cooling.
Thanks for any help.
Charles


texts: Today I was adjusting my sprinkler system heads and I had my spigot turned on with my hose and nozzle attached. Strangely, when two zones would turn. On the spigot would shoot water out until the sprinklers were. Fully charged and operating. Only two of the five zones would make the spigot leak. As far ask know this wasn't happening last summer. The main water. line leaving the house splits and one pipe leads to the backyard and this leaking spigot and the other leads to sprinkler system. Any clue what could be causing this to happen?


texts:
I have some cheap pine shelves that I plan to put outside on the balcony to grow some herbs. To 'weather-proof' it, I've bought some clear woodstain. I decided on wood stain because it was recommended to me by the home center staff. But watching some YouTube videos this morning, someone said wood stain does not provide any protection against the elements. So I'm now wondering if I bought the right stuff.

If it is, I believe a light sand, wood stain, another light sand and a second layer of wood stain, will be sufficient? Do I need anything else?


texts: Life span of an average flexible water hose

texts: What is the life span of an average flexible water hose? Thank you


texts: What is this paper/foil in between drywall and concrete block? Can I cut it and repair it?

texts:
I want to move an outlet so I cut out a horizontal stretch of drywall and found a layer of paper and foil.  I assume it's some kind of vapor barrier.  What I really need to know is, is it ok to cut it and then tape it?  If so, do I need special tape or can I use regular old "duck" tape?

Photos


texts:
One small bathroom in a 1920s house. A cheap remodel was done what looks like about 20 years ago. We moved in recently and noticed water dripping through the ceiling below the bathroom after using the bath/shower. There appears to be a damaged gasket at the bath drain which I will replace. However, it seems that any water getting onto the bathroom floor is finding its way through and into the ceiling below, even small amounts when exiting/entering the shower.

I'm up to my eyeballs in other projects right now, and although I do plan on gutting this bathroom and starting new, that's likely not going to be for 2-3 years. In the meantime, I'm looking for a cheap and easy fix. Is there any kind of transparent sealer I can apply over the top of the existing vinyl to keep it watertight for the next few years?


texts: How to connect 3-wire appliance to 4-wire junction box

texts:
I want to replace my old electric cooktop with a new electric cooktop. The new cooktop is 208/240V. It has 3 threaded wires: red, black, and green.
The metal junction box is 4-wire grounded. It has red, black, white wires and a bare wire grounded to a screw in the box.
Looking at my circuit breaker, the circuit running to this junction box is 120/240V.
Is this something I, not an electrician, can do? If so, is this the proper way to connect:

Red to Red
Black to Black
Green (from appliance) grounded to the same screw as the bare wire (from the circuit)
Cap off the white wire (from circuit)


texts: How can I stop our duct work "pinging" at night?

texts:
I'm in Canada, and our home is a bit older, ~20 years, and the duct work seems to be making a rather loud "pinging" noise at night. I assume this is due to colder weather in general, and the hot air from the furnace heating the duct work up.

The noise, however, does bother my wife, and I'm looking for some advice on how to resolve this. (Currently earplugs are an option we use at times :) )
As I'm a heavier sleeper, it doesn't really bother me though I have heard it. It's not audible during day; there is too much other noise masking it, so I hope that helps understand how "loud" it is.

I never really noticed this in previous houses, so I'm curious as to how "normal" this is, and if there are any "simple" methods for fixing the issue?
(I don't really want to call in somebody to replace all the ductwork.)

Is there something simple I can do to reduce this pinging?
Is there some simpler task I can hire somebody to do to identify the "problem area" and fix/repair it?


texts: SER cable Through Crawl Space (encapsulated)

texts:
Situation:

I am moving my main electrical panel 200A to a utility room at back of the house.
Given this new distance, an outside disconnect will be installed, technically rendering the new indoor panel a sub-panel.
To reach it, I’ll be running 75’ of 4/0 SER cable so I have the separate grounding leg.
I’ll have 2” PVC conduit to sheath the SER where it runs out of the disconnect (MAIN) until it passes through concrete foundation.

QUESTION:

Can I run the 4/0 SER on a running board installed on the flat, attached to the underside of the joists?  Clearance to the vapor barrier below ranges 13” to 18”.

Or

Can I attach the SER to the inside of the 2”x8” floor joists (which run in parallel with the SER path)?

Or

Should I install a running board on the vertical, parallel-to but below the joists, so that the SER can be seen from above?


texts: What substance absorbs the most moisture in a given time?

texts: I have bought some damp traps. When it comes to refilling them, what substance would soak up the most moisture? Googling, dishwasher salt and cat litter have been suggested, but nobody seems to be able to say exactly what would, in principle, absorb the most moisture.


texts:
I've got a Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) sink cabinet that is at least 30, if not 50 years old.  The bottom has gotten wet a few hundred times from a shower that was near it, and it is flaking apart at the bottom where it meets the linoleum.  It's also right by the laundry shoot, so it gets rubbed on a lot.  I'd like to patch it with something water resistant, then paint and sand the whole cabinet smooth.

What should I use for patching it?  Is there something more water resistant than wood putty?   It should be fine if a soaking wet towel gets thrown next to it and sits for 3-4 hours a dozen times.  I will yell at the kids, but I'm sure it's going to happen.

NOTE: I will probably sand off most if not all of the paint, so a thin coat of whatever on the paint or the MDF should be fine.


texts:
I'm wiring my work shop in Colorado. Its on a separate subpanel off the main panel of my house. Its a separate structure.
I wired a series of lights with 14-2 and switched it at the end of the run.
At the last fixture before the switch I attached the neutral (white from the power source) to the fixture. I attached the Hot (Black from the source) to a white going to the switch. I attached the black coming back from the switch to the black on the fixture.

In all the preceding fixtures in the run I just hooked black to black and white to white.
I believe this is correct though I understand code in some places requires a third wire in the last run to the switch to maintain a neutral. That is not required by my inspector.

The trouble I'm having is this: When I turn on the breaker all the lights come on, however the switch only operated the last fixture in the run.

Additional information that may or may not be relevant:

There is a J-Box between the last fixture in the run and the switch. I just spliced whit to white and black to black
There are other outlets in the run that do not have a fixture yet. Just spliced as a j-box
The circuit shares a breaker with a different switched light. I don't remember how I routed it exactly. I almost forgot to add a porch light and I think I tapped in to the circuit before the first fixture and ran romex to the porch light and then to my 3 gang switch box (same box as the one I'm having trouble with.)
The switch I am using for the end of run circuit that I'm having trouble with is a double horizontal switch. One switch is for the upper lights and the other is a different circuit for the lower lights. I tried using a separate single pole switch for it instead and it made no difference.

I would appreciate any help anyone can offer.
Thanks, Peet


texts: Can i use a water heater as my source for the in floor Pex tubing system?

texts: I installed Pex tubing in concrete in 2 areas, both garage floors. I have been told 2 things.... one is that it will require a boiler, two, that a hot water tank will do the job. Cost is a huge factor here when compared. I am willing to try the hot water tank as it is a fraction of the cost and can use it on another property if not successful. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.


texts: Water valve in basement connected to floor drain

texts: I have a line with a valve that is connected to the floor drain in basement. Is this supposed to run slowly or just be turned on occasionally to prevent smell?  I just discovered it is connected to the hot water line. Plumber said keep it off.  Turn on sometimes.  Should it be rerouted to the cold line?  Plumber installed this about four years ago.  I think at times it was on slowly and therefore wasting hot water. think he doesn’t want to confess to doing it incorrectly.


texts:
My refrigerator just today started periodically humming for about 10-15 seconds every 20 minutes or so (something low, 1kHz or lower, I'd wager, though I don't have an amazing ear), followed by a quiet pop.

It has never done this before.  Where should I start looking, and what can I do to diagnose this?

The refrigerator is a Kenmore Coldspot (59592990).  And no, the icemaker is not on.  The noise appears to be coming from the rear of the fridge.


texts: Power flickering on one of five receptacles

texts:
I finished the basement for my son, his wife and children 2 years ago. The apartment consists of 2 bedrooms, kitchenette, 3 piece bathroom and living room.

In the master bedroom I used some of the existing circuit for the new lights and receptacles. Just recently 4 of 5 receptacles stopped working. I changed one of the receptacles that I thought was the fault. Everything worked fine and power was restored. I thought the old receptacle was the initial problem.

This morning my son informed me that the lights and clock were flickering off and on ( from the new receptacle I installed back ). The funny thing is, of the 5 receptacles in the line the last one is still working fine. Any ideas?


texts: How far from the wall should I put the toilet flange?

texts: I'm installing a new toilet and I'd like to know how far from the back wall I should install the flange.  I think that 12" is recommended, but I see that lot are installed closer. Sometimes as close as 9".


texts: Bathroom fan fluctuates in power when using countdown timer switch

texts:
I just installed this new fan in the bathroom: Utilitech Ventilation Fan 1.5-Sone 100-CFM White Bathroom Fan

However, if I use regular toggle switch, it works fine. But if I use countdown timer switch, Lutron Maestro Digital Countdown Lighting Timer specifically, it fluctuates in power like ON and OFF constantly.

I read the reviews of the fan product and someone mentioned the switch is not compatible since the fan is low wattage. I am not sure if I understand correctly. This exact same timer switch works with another fan model but not Utilitech.

Is there any specific configurations of the timer switch I should look for when buying one for the fan?


texts: When is the best time of year to apply mortar in New England?

texts:
I have two small areas at the base of my foundation I would like to repack with mortar. I don't fully understand the properties of mortar. Living in New England where the summers get really hot and the winters get really cold, would the fall or spring be the best time to pack it?

My mind is stuck on the drying process and whether or not the mortar will expand or contract. Or will the mortar always dry in the same shape it was applied?

Thanks


texts: kitchen sink converting an undermount sink to a drop in sink on tile counter

texts: we have a house built in early 1970.  The kitchen sink rusted through so it must be replaced.  We have a ceramic tiled counter top with an undermount sink. We are having great difficulty finding a stanless steel sink to replace it  but we have been able to find overmount sinks.  How do we go about converting the undermont withe drop in? The old sink was cemented in then grouted and tiled.Help!!!


texts: Replacing bathroom sink popup drain if sink has hairline cracks

texts:
I am not a plumber but I am quite handy and I want to replace an ancient bathroom faucet in an attempt to upgrade my apartment. I am not positive what material the sink is, whether marble or porcelain, but there are hairline cracks surrounding the drain. My concern is that I will pull out the old pop up drain to replace it and the sink around the drain is going to crumble. Am I underestimating the durability of these sinks and should everything stay intact? Just how much does the thickness of the sink extend beyond these cracks.. are they just superficial? Looking under the sink there is a lot of bulk and I don’t see how these tiny cracks could eacalate to a major leak (unless the sink were hollow..?)

I am basically just asking whether it would be safe to remove/replace this popup drain on a sink in this condition or if I should just leave it alone. Any advice appreciated. Thank you!


texts: What can I do about flooring height differences when installing laminate flooring?

texts: We are going to be having laminate flooring installed in our kitchen, dining room, living room and down the hallway.  We removed a built-in bookcase, and most of the carpet, but we noticed that there is quite a difference in height from the dining area, to the living room area and down the hall, as the dining room has two layers of plywood and a subfloor, where the living room/hallway has only the subfloor plywood.  What will they do to make this match, as the flooring will be the same in all areas?


texts: Power bar with manual reset to protect from "flash on" during power outage

texts:
We have frequent power outage in our area, and the power often glitches on (flashes on) during the black out. This causes problems with our home electronics: TV, router etc.. as some devices, when power is restored, automatically power on in an undefined mode (e.g. standby but unable to come on).
It would be useful to have them on an outlet or power bar that requires a manual reset.
Is there such a thing as a power-fail cutout power bar or outlet with a manual reset?
I don't know if this is an issue for the HVAC or water heater, since they have a start-up process that takes longer than most glitches and they might be designed to handle these glitch-on situations. Needless to say, they'd require plug-through or hardwired in-between-device.
I can make such a device easily with a relay and a power bar or outlet, but I am looking for UL listed devices that accomplish this.
From the offerings on-line it's not clear to me whether the "reset" function -where available- applies only to a surge event or also to power outages. I can imagine most power bars are designed to stay on after an outage, and accomplish the exact opposite of what I am looking for.


texts: Why is all this exterior trim rotting and how do I fix it?

texts:
We realized there was some rot on the exterior of the house when we bought it two years ago, and I knew obviously I would want to deal with it eventually.

As I've been looking more around the outside of the house, getting ready for new projects (planning on painting the exterior soon) I'm noticing just how much and how bad this rot actually is.

Before I go ripping this wood off the side of the house and trying to replace it, I want to know what the actual cause may have been so I can prevent this from happening to this extent in the future. The house was only built in the early 1990s, so I feel like it's not nearly old enough for this extent of damage to happen naturally, but I really don't know.

I'd also like to point out that all that foam/silicon/paint trying to fix or hide the issue has been there from the outset; I have not touched this at all yet.

Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks all.

http://imgur.com/gallery/XXtdMXU


texts: How to repair a slow leak in sink food disposal, at discharge

texts:
It is a slow leak, perhaps less than a cup a day, so I have time to plan. That is good, because plumbing is not really my thing.

I would like to repair rather than replace, to save money.

Should I try to tighten down on the bolt that I see at the site of the leak, or undo the bold and replace the black washer/gasket that seems to be failing.

What is the name of the washer/gasket piece that I likely will need to replace?

Is this type of part standard and easy to find or should I go to the mfg website: https://insinkerator.emerson.com/  I did not find the part on that site.

Mfg: Emerson insinkerator
Model 17-85
SIN 05111658797

If there is good reason to replace the whole disposal rather than repair it, let me know.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.


texts: Dryer 220 outlet having issues with voltage to get new dryer running

texts:
When I check the voltage of L1 and L2 combined I get 240 volts.

I then check L1 to neutral and get 120v; however, when I check L2 to the neutral I’m getting 0 volts?

I’ve replaced the plug and breaker and still keeps reading the same.

This is a new dryer and the old one was operating just fine.

Any suggestions or thoughts?


texts: Steel Threaded Pipe/Compression Fitting Replacement

texts:
Hello all,

I've run into an issue when replacing my faucet in my bathroom. It had some really old piping coming off the wall, and as you can see, the compression fittings that were on the steel threaded pipe are shot. I just stopped off at the "best" plumbing store in town and they said they had no solutions. I would (and eventually will) replace the entire T assembly off the wall, but money is tight and I'm looking for a solution to get my faucet working for now with the steel threaded pipes. I live in a condominium complex and my HOA wants to charge me up the wazoo to have the water shut off to the entire building for a few hours.

Any help/ideas are greatly appreciated!


texts: Is GFCI a good idea for a washer in a utility room, even if not required?

texts:
Updating wiring for a laundry area, I'm wondering if a GFCI receptacle should be used for the washer.

The washer manual asks for a 15A individual branch circuit. Code says if the receptacle is within 6' of the edge of a sink, it needs to be GFCI. In my case, the receptacle will be located >6' from the nearest sink edge (~10') and 15-25 feet from a water heater and natural gas furnace. (I note the water heater and furnace in the room, just in case that has any affect on the decision.)

So, a GFCI is not required, but should I opt for one anyway since a new receptacle is being installed? Given the circuit will service only a single 15A receptacle, does it need a GFCI or is being grounded with properly rated breaker & wire enough?


texts: Can I use a 30 amp disconnect for a 20 amp circuit?

texts: I need a 20 amp disconnect for an air to water heat pump.  I can only find 30 and 60 amp disconnects.  Would it be OK to use the 30?


texts: Should I use plumbers tape on tub drain or just plumbers putty?

texts:
I am replacing the tub drain (chrome to bronze). I was wondering if I should use plumbers tape on the drain, or is the putty enough?
EDIT:  Thank you for your responses. I am changing the drain only. I guess a better question is, should I use plumbers tape between the drain and drain shoe? I know I should use the putty on the edge of the drain but someone told me to use plumbers tape on the threads. I just changed to whole drain shoe and I'm afraid to mess it up by doing it wrong.
Second edit: thanks again for all your responses. It seems the general consensus is that I do not need tape. The shoe is pvc and the drain is bronze.


texts: I need to enclose this porch. What are the things that I can expect to have to do?

texts:
So the plan is to remove the planter, build a wall on the side where the planter is Relocate the entrance door. Practically this turns the porch into a entrance hallway.
The porch has light on the ceiling, controlled from inside. The porch is built on a concrete slab that you can see in the picture. I am inclined to believe that it has a proper foundation and it won't need to rebuild it.
I will have to remove the tin ceiling of the porch and install drywall and insulation there. I might choose to leave the brick look of the wall adjacent to the garage (left side of the picture) and insulate that section of the wall from inside the garage.

What am I missing or overlooking. For those of you who want to make references to the code this is in Ontario Canada


texts: 3-Way Switch won't turn on lights if dimmer is set to low

texts:
I just added 5 dimmable recessed lights to my living room.  I'm certain it's powered correctly.

Incoming power hits the 3-way dimmer switch.  Both traveler wires head to the other 3 way switch (non-dimmer) and connect to traveler terminals.  The lights then connect to the hot terminal.  All neutrals and grounds connected.

Set dimmer to 50% and flip toggle on dimmer.  Lights are on.
Move to other switch and toggle.  Lights go off.
Back to dimmer switch and toggle.  Lights back on.
Back to other switch and toggle.  Lights go off.

All 4 combinations works as they should.....until they don't.

Here's the issue.

If I'm running the dimmer at 10% and I head to the non-dimmer 3 way to turn them off, they go off.  When I go to turn them back on, they don't go on.

To get the lights to go back on I have to return to the dimmer switch, turn it off, raise the dimmer, and turn them on.

Any idea why the standard 3 way switch would have issues powering the lights on when the dimmer is set to low?

TLDR: 3 way dimmer switch attached to 3 way toggle switch.  Wired correctly.  If lights are at most dimmed setting, regular 3-way switch can turn them off, but then not back on.


texts:
The outside pane of a double-glazed window in my house is broken, and I'm curious to know why. Picture below.

I've done some Googling to investigate, and as I it understand the possibilities are:

Impact

This is a second floor window so it would have to be a projectile. My research suggests that this would appear as a series of points originating from a central point-of-impact. I don't see the typical spiders-web pattern, so I don't think this was an act of vandalism.

Heat induced

At the time of the breakage, it was 70F in my house and 39F outside. I don't think this is a sufficient gradient to cause a spontaneous breakage.

Mechanical stress

I'm less sure about this - I can't find consistent information on how this looks.

Edge failures

I don't think the breakage appears to emanate from the edge, so I can rule this out.

Summary

All in all, I'm at a bit of a loss, and was hoping some expert here might be able to help me figure out why my window broke.


texts: Should I replace ELV 12V transformers with LED drivers?

texts: I have 3 pendant lights, each with its own ELV 12v transformer stuffed into its junction box, controlled by a Lutron MA-PRO dimmer that supports ELV, MLV, LED, and incandescent lighting. I would like to replace the existing 50w xenon bulbs with dimmable LED bulbs. I tried just the bulbs, but they flicker. Should I replace all of the ELV transformers with LED 12v drivers? Is it okay to stuff the transformers/drivers into the box?


texts: NO COLD WATER after installing pump. Have to run hot water to get cold water

texts: I installed pump and I am getting hot water at all faucets. My problem is contrary to why I installed pump. I now have to run and waste HOT water to get cold water. I have misplaced or lost my installation instruction paper. I feel like it may have been something in that paper that would have helped me correct that issue.Any help you can send my way will be appreciated.


texts: Why my engineered hardwood floor is chipping/worn (abuse or regular wear?)

texts:
I've been in my apartment for four years, and have some damage to the engineered hardwood floors. I'm trying to determine if the damage constitutes regular wear and tear, and the floors are just really cheap, or if I was too hard on them and it's my fault.

There are a variety of chips along the seams, that weren't caused by me dropping anything. There's also a highly worn spot where I had a plastic mat that my computer chair was on (the plastic was supposed to protect the floor...).

From some other questions I've asked, the deciding factor would be the grade of the hardwood floor, and the thickness of the veneer. Hopefully something can tell me based on these images what the grade/thickness is, or if this looks like regular usage patterns:

https://imgur.com/a/GySJPTQ


texts: Replacing bathroom light fixture, no junction box

texts:
First time homeowner and newbie DIY-er here.
I'm replacing the light fixture in our bathroom and there's no junction box behind the wall, but I think I'm seeing insulation in there too.
There's a stud directly to the left of the circular hole (where the previous fixture had two screws into the stud, and two screws into the drywall).
Do I need to put a junction box in there?  It seems unsafe not to.


texts: If an outdoor outlet is mounted flush and the cabling direct through the wall, can I use indoor cabling?

texts: If I drill a hole from indoors to outdoors and mount an exterior outlet directly over the hole, do I need to use outdoor cabling even though it's not exposed to the elements?


texts: Installing a deadbolt lock on a metal door & metal frame

texts:
I live in an apartment where the front door and its frame are both metal and hollow inside. I didn't have trouble installing a deadbolt lock with one of the doors because you could remove the strike plate on the latch with one of my locks but the other lock I bought you cannot remove the strike plate.

Does anyone have advice on what I should do to install this strike plate into the door and frame? I thought about simply drilling small holes for to screw in the latch but I come to the issue where the strike plate won't be embedded so I thought I could hammer the strike plate to make a dent into the door and frame but I'm afraid of warping and screwing up the strike plate.


texts: Cleaning black spots (putrified insects) off vinyl siding

texts: Is there a clever method to remove the black spots caused by (what I believe to be) putrified mosquitoes and other insects from vinyl siding?  Will Jomax remove the spots?


texts: How should I add new joists and flooring to a loft space?

texts:
First off, basic floor plan of the loft:

Hard lines are the walls on the first floor underneath, joists on the first floor landing run left to right so does that mean the central wall running front to back is 'load bearing'?  Total loft dimensions are 5.2m left to right, 7m front to back.

Next up, photo of one of the corners, bottom right corner on the floor plan, taken from near the hatch:

You can see the 4x2 ceiling joists and another 4x2 going left to right (ceiling binder?) that appears to be nailed to the bottom of the roof rafter and then sits up against the chimney breast on the opposed side of the loft (semi detached house) but not actually tied into anything.

So here's my problem.  I want to put down new deeper floor joists so I can use it for heavier storage and possibly a hobby room of some kind in the future.

Initially I thought of putting 8x2s front to back, supporting them on internal walls where possible.  Problem is that the angle of the eaves would not allow me to rest the ends on anything substantial so could I just bolt them to the rafters as long as they were supported by the walls downstairs too?

Then I got thinking that I'd need to go left to right .. a) because the load bearing walls go down the centre of the house and b) because if I don't the ceiling binder will be in the way.  Same problem however with regards to getting the joists to sit on the external walls and I'm guessing I'm not allowed to bolt a plate to the chimney wall and hang things off that.


texts: How to replace a single light switch with an electric dimmer switch

texts:
This is a very similar question to one I asked yesterday, which Ryan Walkowski kindly helped out with.

This time, I'm looking for a some assistance in fitting a a single electric dimmer unit.

I am trying to replace my existing light switch with a LightWaveRF dimmer but am also have an extractor fan which powers on which this switch is on.

I took a guess but is anybody able to confirm the correct wiring (I'm in the UK) for such a setup?

Here are the old and new switches:


texts:
We bought a house built in 1846. In one room, the ceiling has suffered immensely from a previous, serious roof leak. In said room, almost all the plaster skim coats over the lath and keys are missing, broken, falling down, etc. The room is quite large at 18x18. We have never worked with plaster before and it's a large area that we do not want to learn on.

What options are out there for fixing this?

What we have considered thus far:

Drywall..but I think it would cost a small fortune as it's a big room with 12 foot ceilings. We would have to hire someone to do this for us. Plus..I'm not sure if it would anchor properly to the lath.
Re-plastering. Again, we'd have to hire someone as we have no experience with such a large area of plaster work.
Clean out the keys and install furrowing strips (tightly together).
Clean out the keys and install shiplap or something similar.
Ceiling tiles..but again..with the lath and keys exposed..it's not a truly flat surface. We would also have to clean out the keys here. Not sure if this is a good idea.
Bead board with furrowing strips at all seams.

Any suggestions (and hopefully DIY and reasonable in price) would be great!


texts:
I have a big window above the entrance double door.  Whenever it rains against the window I find the leaks at the top of the window corner, at the bottom of the window and in my cold room which is below the door.

Any suggestions on how to fix them?


texts: How to insulate a concrete slab foundation in an older house?

texts:
What are some ways to insulate a concrete slab type foundation in an older home built in the 1950's? As far as I can tell, the slab is not insulated at all and results in a very cold floor and living environment on the first level of the house in the colder seasons.

Has anyone used ceramic insulating paint applied to the top of the slab in these circumstances?


texts: Where to find folding stands for painting?

texts: I'm looking for plastic folding stands for painting. The idea is to put e.g. plywood board at the top of those and paint furniture on it. Any idea where (e.g. web store) I can find these?


texts: Could I have poisoned myself by using my gas fireplace with the flue closed?

texts: Ive been using my vented gas fireplace for a couple weeks not knowing the flue was closed. How dangerous is this.  I have myself & 3 dogs that were in my family room with me where the fireplace was burning.  I'm worried I've poisoned my poor babies.


texts: laying plywood flooring over potential asbestos floor tiles

texts:
I have removed old carpet in the main bedroom which has exposed potential asbestos containing floor tiles (this is not confirmed but the look of them and age of the house is a strong give away that these may contain asbestos)
Our aim was to lay a floating laminate flooring over the top of the tiles with some underlay, but the floor is uneven with bumps (8-14mm) at 2 separate parts of the room. The bumps seems too large a problem for self-levelling compound.
I would like to use plywood to raise the floor and attempt to minimise the impact of the bumps. But I am not sure how best to set them on top of the floor tiles. I am trying to do this without drilling into the floor below as this will damage the tiles and potential release asbestos fibres in the air.
Any ideas?


texts: How do I get into this kind of faucet to fix a drip?

texts:
How can I get this thing apart? Using this question I was able to take out a bolt of some sort inside the top from behind the blue/red thing, but the top still doesn't come off.

It's dripping, and I wanted to fix whatever is wrong on the inside.

Here's a short video showing what I tried:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_XXLcKhsdE


texts: Why is electric bill all of a sudden $300+ when normally it is under $100?

texts:
My dads been pulling the last of his hairs out over this.

The past two years around this time, the electric bill jumps to about $300 when typically it’s around $100.

Nothing has changed, we haven’t acquired any new appliances ( all kitchen appliances are relatively brand energy efficient appliances ) We have one LCD TV that’s rated at something like $20 annually.

Dad and wife suspect someone is somehow siphoning power.

When the the main breaker is shut off, the meter stops spinning.

We’ve been selectively unplugging drier, washer, fridges, stove etc. Water heater is gas. We have central AC and it hasn’t run much at all as well.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this aside from selectively unpluging devices ?


texts: How can I convert my dryer to plug in in my apartment

texts: There are no hook ups in my apartment there is an air conditioning unit though. Is there away to connect my dryer there


texts: Would it be up to code to use electrical box extender behind fridge that bulges out (California)?

texts:
The fridge outlet uses aluminium wiring that is attached to copper only outlet. So I am thinking of upgrading it to alumiconns. Unfortunately:

alumiconn connectors are quite large and don't fit in that small box (I was able to fit 2 alumiconns and a wago for ground as temporary hack).
the electrical box is new construction (i.e. nailed to studs). So I would prefer to replace the box only as last resort.

Can I simply use electrical box extender? Would it have to be flush with wall or outlet bulging behind fridge is acceptable?


texts: The plug/electrical for my pool is connected to one circuit breaker.  I bought a new pump that only needs a regular outlet with a ground.  Does it have to be a GFI outlet if it's got it's own circuit breaker?


texts: Can a ceiling fan be installed on a box with only one black and one white wire?

texts: I purchased a used ceiling fan. We noticed the ceiling fan only had 2 wires...a black and white.  When we took down the existing fan. We noticed there were only 2 wires in the ceiling box...black and white.  I have read there are suppose to be 3 or 4 wires, but neither the fan nor ceiling box has that many.  Also the ceiling fan had a remote, but the person lost it.  Can we still install the ceiling fan with only 2 black and 2 white wires and can a remote still be used with it? And if we can, how do we wire it ?]


texts: I have a timber retaining wall about 4 feet tall builting with 6x6 which is leaning  probably due to the downspout draining inside. I'm wondering if using an earth auger to relieve some of the pressure and then using a sledge hammer to knock it back straight would work?


texts:
My daughter’s bedroom has 4 outlets. 1 of the outlets is connected to a wall switch. All 4 outlets are currently out and each is an open neutral (ground-hot=120V; neutral-hot=0V). I checked the breaker and it appears to be fine (ground-hot=120V; neutral-hot=120V). The switch is also functioning properly I think (I get the same voltage readings in the on/off positions as I do for a different bedroom with an identical 4 outlet + switch setup).

What could be the issue that’s causing all four outlets to fail and be open neutral, and also how did this even occur given that 1 is on a switch? I’m basically going to replace all four outlets and the switch and hope for the best.

I’d love to hear any ideas you have on how to identify the culprit.


texts: Grout was poured down shower drain. Screw to drain cover broken off. PVC shower pipes. Looks like grout is up to about 2.5 in from drain cover. How can I got about trying to fix this


texts:
My decking is painted but in a lot of places the paint is peeling off to the colour underneath, my question is do I need to sand the old paint off or can I just paint over it. Any suggestions as to what paint that I need to purchase
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

thank you


texts: Do channels overlap in multiple remote controls for outlets?

texts:
My dad just bought remote controlled outlets, which operate at 433.92mhz. The remote has four channels that can be used to control different outlets. Now what happens if I myself, buy a second set? Will the second remote have the same channels and thus interfere with the other remote?

This seems like a pretty basic question, but I must not be very good at googling, because I couldn't seem to find an answer. So does anybody out here now more about this and how to deal with several remotes in such an environment. My dad would be playing around with them closer than 30 meters, so would they interfere and if so, how could we deal with the situation?

The product is the HE808SF switch set from Home Easy. Here you can find some of its specs. HE844 from elro(pdf) is the remote control.


texts: Conduit for future sprinker system before sidewalk pour

texts:
Our street is getting new water mains and they've pulled up the sidewalks which will eventually be replaced.

I don't have plans for a sprinker system but am thinking I can't pass up putting an empty pipe or conduit under ground before they pour the new sidewalk. I envision an pipe a foot or so longer on each side than the sidewalk buried with the ends taped shut. I'll of course keep a written record of where they are.

What pipe/conduit should I use and how deep should I go? Right now they're filling the 6 foot trench with sand than then topping with a few inches of gravel.


texts: How clean does concrete floor really need to be for peel and stick flooring?

texts:
We bought an older home and found that there were two layers of peel and stick flooring in the bathroom. We removed those and this is the result of the floor after scraping and scrubbing for hours. My question is does all of that stuff still need to come off? It doesn't feel different to the touch from the bare spot of concrete in the corner, will that truly make the peel and stick not work as well? We've tried sanding to no avail, some suggested using oil based cleaners to remove it, others say absolutely do NOT use oil based, so we can't get a consistent answer from anyone.

Also there are a couple very very small chips, do those need to be filled in or will they be unnoticeable? Will the sealer we are going to put on pre-stick make that a non-issue? Do we even need a sealer?

thanks for any help!


texts:
My basement kitchen wall is adjacent to the bathroom and shower.  I want to replace the old tile in the kitchen with a straight wall, which I’m planning to paint.  I have removed the old tile and found different material behind it.  The top appears to be cement board and the bottom appears to be drywall screwed into the cement board.  Behind this wall is a standing shower, which is also tiled.  Can you please advise on what is the best way to replace this side of the wall with a straight wall that I can paint?  Thank you.

Straight wall example:


texts: How do I drill into an existing galvanized fence post?

texts:
I have an existing metal fence post, set in concrete, in which I'd like to drill a new hole in that post.

Normally, I would use a drill press to drill into a curved surface like this.  Since the post is already set in concrete, this is not a viable option.

Is there some sort of guide jig or other tool or process to make this task easier?  I'm having quite a time drilling even a small pilot hole.


texts: How much heat loss through bathroom fan vent?

texts:
My master bathroom did not previously have bathroom fan, but I installed one and have had wonderful results with keeping the steam from building up and exhausting the moist air.  I am using both a fan and a roof vent that have pretty weak metal flaps to reduce the cold air from making its way into the house.  I can hear the flap on the roof vent at times during very windy conditions, but not often.

I have taken showers without turning the fan on and the warm, moist air finds its way out of the vent very easily.  It is amazing how much just having the air path in place helps the exhausting compared to when a fan was not present.  This does concern me though, as I wonder, if air can leave the bathroom that easily with the fan off, could I be losing heated air when the fan isn't turned on?  I plan on insulating the pipe that is in the attic now, though I am not sure if this would affect the rising of the warm air/dropping of the cold air.

Any thought or opinions?  Do I need to be concerned about this?


texts: What should I do with exposed wires from a yard irrigation manifold?

texts:
We just had a new backyard put in by a contractor with 20+ years of experience. Overall, he did a very nice job, but apparently the Rain Bird timer that came with our house is a new model and it gave him some trouble when hooking up the new sprinklers/drip. As such, he installed a temporary Rain Bird -- one he knew how to use -- to run the sprinklers for a few days until he got the newer Rain Bird figured out, which he did today.

When he unhooked the older Rain Bird, he left the wires exposed by the manifold in the backyard:

This is how they're hooked up to the manifold in the front (only the brown/white wire is attached, as indicated by the red arrow):

In the walk through today, my wife asked about the wires, and he told her that they're waterproof, and that we should just leave them there.

Aside from the fact that it just looks sloppy, my question is:

Is he telling the truth? Is there really no harm in leaving those wires exposed the way they are?
Is the solution as simple as disconnecting the brown/white wire and discarding the now-unused wires?

I understand that it's difficult for you to give a definitive answer with this limited amount of information, but your input is appreciated.


texts: Ramifications of adding a second HVAC air return (in parallel)?

texts:
Years and years ago a HVAC tech told me that one of the best things to do for a HVAC system was to add a second air return.  He stated, basically, that doubling the size of the HVAC filter area would make the system quieter and put less stress on the HVAC components.

That was years ago, so...

Q:  In a standard new, stick built home[1] what are the ramifications of adding a second air return, that doubles the filter area, to the HVAC system?

Notes:

Generally this is easy enough to do for the average home owner and costs < $50 for a “20 X 20 Steel Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter” (see Amazon).

[1] Any reputable builder who’s won something like:  Professional Builder magazine--Builder of the Year or National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)--National Housing Quality Award

Edit 2018-08-27 11:11, Clarifications in reply to comments and answers:

Since there are multiple possible HVAC build outs where a homeowner can achieve the same thing, I was trying to not use any one specific build out.  As it seems my question wasn't clear enough, I'll add what the 'goal' is (which I should have done originally) and one specific build out for reference.  Hopefully that'll make a better understanding?  I'm going to also add a second, related question at the end of this edit.

Goal:

The HVAC change is to allow the homeowner to increase (double) the size of the return air filter area for less than $100.

Alternate Q wording:

Is doubling the size of the return air filter area, with no other changes, good or bad for a HVAC system?

A specific Example:

The existing HVAC return air filter is in standard(ish) drywall 'feed' ducting to the HVAC blower unit.  In many new homes this return is located in a central hallway, or other central area, of the house and there is plenty of 'blank' drywall in this drywall 'feed' ducting to install a second 'Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter' assembly [1].

Worst case, to see exactly what the drywall 'feed' ducting looks like, you'll need to goto a stick built model home, and stick your head through where the HVAC filter is.  Think of a rectangular return duct built with drywall...

Two other clarifications:

The existing air filter is in a wall, and there is no air filter at/on the HVAC system itself.
The new return is added to the existing return 'duct work,' so the only true change to the HVAC system is there is now twice the filter area.

[1] I don't know what the entirety of this component is called, it's the steel frame that holds the filter and has an airtight fitting into a wall.  A unit that holds a 20x20x1 filter is less than $50 at Home Depot, Lowe's, Amazon, etc.

Second, related Q (feel free to expand as desired!  ..might need a physicist, as this is definitely outside of my math skills..):

If the existing filter area is 20x20 (400 sq in.), and the builder recommends a MERV 8, now that the filter area is 2 times 20x20 (800 sq in.), can filters of MERV 11 or 13 be used without restricting the airflow below the original airflow?


texts: Completely removing/hiding wall switches

texts:
My wife and I recently bought a house from people who built it in 2005 (literally -- the guy was in home construction half a century), and they did some "interesting" things.  One choice I'm trying to undo involves wall switches for ceiling fans.  We're replacing the 5 ceiling fans, and all the models we'll use have a remote, so they don't need wall switches.  One ceiling fan has 6 wall switches(!), three for the motor and three for the light in the fan.  Three fans have two switches (one fan, one light), but there isn't even a light in the fan.  We'd be willing to keep one switch as a master off switch for the new fan, but I would really like to get rid of the rest.

How do I make them completely disappear?  In some locations, the fan switches share a box with another switch (which will stay), and in others the box has only fan switches.  But in all cases, I'm faced with the chore of trying to do a "perfect" drywall job in a highly visible place or using some kind of blank plate, which is only marginally better than having dead switches all over the house.

Frankly, rather than tackle this, I'm tempted to just leave the blasted switches throughout the house.

Suggestions, anyone?


texts: I had maintenance turn off my breaker and fix the pull tab on my ceiling fan. Then turned it back on... Few minutes later.... I turned on a light switch and it made a sizzling noice! Maintenance came back and flicked it off and on about 20 times and said it was fine and could have been a power surge! Is that true or should it get replaced??? Also i might fix myself..... But the wires are confusing.... What would happen if I get them mixed up?


texts: Is it safe to have a POE switch in an attic?

texts:
I have a walk in attic.  Through a room upstairs, there is a door that opens and you can step out into the attic.  There is a power outlet in the attic on the wall (on a stud) near that door.  What I'm wanting to do is keep a POE switch in the attic.  I would need to run an extension cord around a corner from that outlet in the attic to put it where I want to put it.  The area has particle board below it, studs with insulation on 2 sides, and open area on the other two sides.  My concern is that I want to make sure I'm not creating a possible fire risk.  I don't think I would be, but I would like some feedback by people who know more than I do.

I tried to upload pictures, but they're apparently too large ...

By the way, my question is not with the CAT cables.  I have in wall rated CAT6 cables already running to a switch that is in a closet.  I want to reroute those cables to this attic switch to make things easier for me, and cable runs shorter.


texts: Can i use a 5v water pump as a vacuum pump to lift very light objects?

texts: I want to use a small water pump (3.7v or 5v - the aquarium ones - 12v at most) as a vacuum pump: i need it to lift an object that weights 5 grams at most. Can it be done or the pump will just overheat? I was planning to use a very small hose.


texts: Bottom stair riser on top of new flooring or gap with trim to cover?

texts:
I can't find anything on the internet to help me with this and my husband and I can't agree.

We are installing both new flooring (bamboo) and replacing our carpeted stairs with hardwood. My husband says we should cut the flooring just short of the base of the stairs and leave a small gap away from the bottom riser that we'll cover with a piece of trim in case anyone ever wants to replace the flooring in the future.

I think the flooring should go all the way underneath the new riser so there is a clean joining of the floor and the stairs. If the floors do get replaced in the future it seems the boards would slide out easily enough.

The picture shows our new flooring cut just short of where the new stairs will be installed (those are the old stairs that were covered with carpet). Thanks for your input.


texts: How can I straighten out a bent threaded rod?

texts: I recently got a 1/2" acme screw for a project that has a deflection of approximately an eighth of an inch deflection.  One would not think that it would be a big deal, but is is making alignment quite difficult on my project.  Is there any way to straighten out a threaded rod?


texts: What are the pros and cons of paint vs epoxy for concrete floors?

texts: We will be finishing our basement in our new house - over the next two years or so.  Eventually, we will put down flooring in most of the basement (although some parts will remain unfinished).  Originally, we were going to put down two part epoxy but also considering paint to save money. Are there advantages of using epoxy over paint?  We will be using the unfinished basement as a gym and craft room until it is finished.


texts: Does Rosemary repel mosquitoes from home?

texts: Setting out the mosquito repellent plants in your home is the best option to keep mosquitos away. Plants not only avoid mosquitoes away but also provide you fresh air to breathe.


texts: What does it mean when our window screens are loose and the windows are hard to lock?

texts:
We just finished building our new house and we feel like the Simonton windows might have some issues.  I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is normal or not so I thought I'd post my issues here and see what you guys think.

The screens on some of our have a gap on the side larger then others.  In some cases I can move the screen side to side and there's about a 3/8" gap that I've actually seen bugs crawling through into the house.  On some days we have to keep the window closed because bugs keep coming in.
Some windows are extremely hard to lock.  I have to pull the window down with my body weight to get it down far enough to lock.  Otherwise the lock just pushes against the top pane and doesn't actually go into the lock slot.
In the winter we would see circles of frost form on the picture windows in the center of the window.


texts: Flexible duct behind dryer looks a little sketchy

texts: So we just noticed that the air flow in our house is always bad when we run the dryer. Looking behind the unit, we found a foily looking mess of a flexible duct behind the dryer. It looks almost like torn unstable piece of foil was just slapped on connecting the duct to the hole and it just flaps around. Is this normal? Or something I need to call for, or.. can I somehow fix this myself? Any help regarding this matter would help a ton.


texts: How do I restore paintbrushes ruined by dried latex paint?

texts: I have had a couple of good natural bristle brushes for several years. I've been careful about cleaning them until now, but a couple months ago I left them in a jar with water "to get back to tomorrow." Today I finally got back to them and as you can imagine, they aren't in great shape. Is there any way I can restore them or do I have to throw them out?


texts:
M24 and 15/16” aerators aren’t fitting

When we purchased our home, the bathtub’s faucet in the master bath no longer had the male aerator attached. I measured the diameter of the opening and found it was about an inch. So I assumed the 15/16” adapter would work. It seemed like it would fit, but it wouldn’t stay. So I tried an M24 aerator and that definitely fit and stayed, but falls out at the slightest touch or whenever you start the water. My tub has no markings of the actual manufacturer, so I’m grasping at straws at this point.

Could it be a M28? If so, where would I find that type of part... I’m struggling to find one online. Or could it be that the M24 should work but maybe the threading isn’t matching up with the female component? If so, how would I solve for that?

Any help would be appreciated.


texts:
There is an area under the threshold to my house that I would like to tile with a decorative tile. There are two things I am uncertain about.

1) The bottom part of the wall is inset from the rest of it. I imagine I need to fill it to provide a level subsurface for the tile, but I am not sure what would be the best way to do this.

2) I assume that the area between the tile and the floor should not be grouted but rather caulked, to allow for freedom of movement. Is this correct? Should the area between the left and right walls and the tile also be caulked rather than grouted?


texts: New Electric range trips GFCI when plugged in - 4 wire, bonding strap removed

texts: I had an electrician install a 220v 40 amp circuit for a new electric range (Avanti DER20P3S) in the basement. The circuit is for a 4 wire (grounded) plug. I have wired the 4 wire plug to the range and removed the bonding strap from neutral to ground. The problem is, the breaker trips immediately when the range is plugged in, due to a ground fault. I have measured continuity with an Ohm Meter from neutral (white) to chassis ground on the range, and there is continuity measuring zero ohms AND the ground strap from Neutral to Chassis has been removed. Is this normal? Is the range incompatible with the GFCI? Keep in mind, the range works normally with a 3 wire connection with the bonding strap installed, as the GFCI can't detect the ground-fault to neutral. Is this an acceptable solution? Note the electrician said a GFCI is code for a basement 220v breaker. Thanks!!


texts: How to take out the toilet water inlet faucet knob

texts: The water inlet got stuck with no incoming water. Suspected it's fully blocked by sand and mud. It's with slow water ingress before but still works. The knob is without screw at the top. Could anyone advise how to take out the knob in order to take out the ceramic cartridge, I think it is, apart for cleaning?


texts: Changing old light fitting to new - wiring problem

texts:
I am looking to change a new light fitting in cloakroom.
The old wiring has a black wire with red tape around, which I think signifies a ‘live’ . I also have 3 red cables and 2 other black cables plus the earth.
The new LED fitting only has a live, neutral and earth. Please see picture of old wiring.  I isolated the system at the consumer unit and then, I wired up the earth to earth, the 3 red to a single choc block type connector ( not connected to new fitting) and the black ‘ live’ to the live and the other 2 black to the neutral.
When I turned on everything back in, the LED are flickering like a strobe. I turned off and checked all connections for tightness but the same result.
Is my wiring correct.
Any assistance gratefully received


texts: Priming metal and plastic access point covers

texts:
I have several access point covers that are grey from factory but I would like to paint them white.

Someone suggested to me Rustoleum. But should I prime them first or is it not needed? If yes, what kind of primer? Or can the existing coat act as primer ready for the paint? In previous metal painting jobs, I did prime with oil based primer but that was because it would have no coating to begin with.


texts: How should I connect a Wink relay when two circuits are involved?

texts:
I'm installing a Wink relay that has two switches for lights. The double gang box I want to install it in also has two switches that are operating lights only. My problem is that each light is on a different circuit breaker.

The Wink relay has only one line in and two loads out. Can I switch one of the lights to the other's circuit and leave a hot line in the box with a wire nut?


texts: Why did I feel an electric current when touching my light switch?

texts:
While reaching behind a desk in my office, I leaned against the wall and felt a pinch on my shoulder. I realized I was leaning on the lower screw of the light switch and thought it had a metal burr or something sticking out. I touched the screw with my hand and felt electric current flow through my hand. I tried it again a few minutes later and felt no current.

I'm going to call an electrician ASAP but was curious, what could be causing this?
My house is 58 years old and the wiring is probably that old as well.


texts: How can I salvage the walls after painting over wallpaper?

texts: So I moved into our house and the lady before me had faux finished the walls. I used latex paint and painted over everything. Ah, a fresh coat of paint.... NOPE! Well, she had painted over wallpaper and now its wrinkled in the corners and there are seams everywhere. Any suggestions other than taking it all down? It's everywhere, kitchen, breakfast area, living room and formal living room. I've thought of Venetian plaster but it just seems like it will continue to make it heavy. I need help!


texts: Portable battery using this adaptor spec

texts:
What is this battery pack inserted here at bottom?

I have this adaptor powering a 5V equipment.

I need a portable battery. What is the most reliable one that can produce 4A, 20W? I can't take chances for it to fail because the equipment is very expensive.


texts: Tidy up walls when moving out of a rented room

texts:
I am moving out of a rented room in a week, and they are going to charge me £150 to repaint the white walls.

More importantly, I look a hook off the wall (one of the command stick-on ones) and it made a hole in the wall:

Any idea how I can fix this myself? I have no idea how much they would charge me. Would normal filler work?

Also if I took a sample of the paint into a DIY store do you think I could touch up the walls myself with a paint brush? I did spill red wine down one, so that is quite a big area...


texts: How can I stop this GFCI receptacle from tripping?

texts:
In my garage I have two wall receptacles on opposite sides of the garage. On one side the receptacle is a GFCI receptacle and the other side is a normal one. In the normal receptacle I have a small deep freeze, and a refrigerator plugged in. A couple of times a day I go out and neither the refrigerator nor the freezer are working, and the GFCI receptacle on the other wall is tripped.

Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this?


texts: The older plumber left a over tighten copper pipe (threaded) to the shower valve. I tried but couldnt remove it with wrench. I dont want to use too much force as it may break the valve. I wonder if there is anything I can apply to it to help loosing it? Like WD40? I can see the teflon tap wraping around the thread and so it shouldnt be this hard.


texts: How can I ground an appliance with a CEE 7/7 plug plugged into a step-up transformer with a "universal" female outlet?

texts:
I'd like to use a European appliance (5A 208-240V 50/60Hz 900W) with a step-up transformer such as this one.

The appliance has a CEE 7/7 Schuko-French hybrid plug.  The transformer has a female receptacle seen here, which accepts multiple types of plugs.

It seems to me that a CEE 7/7 plug plugged into this all-female receptacle would not be grounded, since there would be no contact to either the earthing clips or to the female contact for an earthing pin that are on the plug.

Q1:  Is it dangerous to use this set-up as is?

Q2:  Would it be safer for the transformer to be plugged into a GFCI outlet?

Q3:  Could I obtain or make a two-sided male adapter with earthing pins on both sides that would ground the appliance through the transformer?

Q4:  Would the appliance be grounded if I cut off the CEE 7/7 plug, and wired on a Type G or Type I plug?

Q5:  Could I ground the appliance some other way?

This is in an apartment, so electrical modifications to the source outlets or building wiring are not an option.


texts:
I run my hot water in the bathroom sink and the toilet next to it starts bubbling.

What could be causing this?


texts: Can I install two independent gfci outlets in one double-gang box?

texts:
Cam I have two GFCIs connected to one double gang box in my laundry room and if so can I do a single line connection so that they both can work independently?

I have a 12/2 going from the panel through conduit (copper wire) to the double gang box. I want to have each GFCI to run independently without using the load. Why, in case one shuts off the other isn't affected. the double gang box is standard. the device is a Leviton 20 amps. I was told that you can run 12/2 from the panel to the first GFCI black and white. Then connect the second GFCI using a jumper and attaching it to he second GFCI. Is this acceptable by code. we use a washer,dryer in the laundry and the garage heavy machinery. so why should this be a problem running two independent?


texts: What vent type and configuration does my furnace use?

texts:
I am trying to replace my 33 year old furnace. The brand is Carrier and model is 395BAW048095.
I couldn't figure out the correct vent type and configuration (down-flow, multi-position, up-flow).
I wonder if someone can give some guidance and offer some suggestions for good furnace brand/model that can replace this one. Thanks!


texts: How to change lightbulb inside a fixture

texts:
I want to change this burnt out light:

How can I get at it to change it?

Thanks


texts: 3-Wire Dryer Connection Works with Dryer at Home, But Not At Other House--socket tests ok though

texts:
This one is really odd...
I have a 3 wire Samsung Dryer that was not turning on at my MIL's house -- but the outlet and the bare cord (I was super-careful) show 220 across the two hot legs.  But when hooked up to the dryer, at the connection block, the voltage measures 220 from leg 1 to Neutral but zero across legs. And leg 2 to neutral is zero.
I took the dryer to my house and plugged into my 3 prong outlet; and it turns on...and measures as expected at the connection block.
I don't get it at all.  If the 3 prong outlet at my MIL's was bad, wouldn't I have got nothing or the same as my weird measurements at the connection block?  I'm stumped.


texts: Two wall switches appear orphaned... What to do?

texts:
in my old house (built 1960, significantly transformed 1980, minor transformations 2010), there is a three gang of simple two way switches in the section that has been created in 1980 and transformed in 2010. My ownership postdates both of these...
I am automating and refreshing. The old switch is almond and ugly; I am going white, and where appropriate smart switch.
One of the switches controls the (only) ceiling light fixture [edited]. I have replaced it with a smart dimmer. All good.
The issue is with the other two switches. I can't figure what they control, if anything at all. There's only receptacle outlets in the room, and none is controlled by either of the switches. The receptacles' tabs are not broken, so I checked whether someone might have forgotten to break them, but that's not the case, the other wires in the receptacles are for daisy chaining these receptacles. I also checked that they are not controlling anything in the adjacent rooms. I can't find what they are for.
I don't want to leave them as they are due to the ugly, dirty almond color. My options appear to be:

replace with white switches (that control nothing)
remove them, put wire nuts on the wires, and use a big old ugly blind/blind/open three gang plate
install receptacle outlets instead (and cap the load wires with wire nuts)

Does that make sense? Must I identify/trace the load wires' paths to remove fully or cap them in a junction box, or is it ok to just cap them locally? Would there be any concern in using option 3 here? Any other option I am missing?
Thank you


texts: Should I insulate an attic that's over an open porch?

texts:
I have a 6ft (approx. 2m) wide porch at the front of my house.  The space above the porch opens into the attic, like this:

Diagram of porch/attic/house goes here http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/7585/diyquestion.png

I'm adding insulation -- R-38 fiberglass batting -- in the attic; do I need to insulate the space above the porch too?


texts:
Similar to this, but not a duplicate: How can I determine the STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating for my condo walls and ceiling?

The  goal: Verify if I have a claim towards the developer who says it's an unwarrantable issue that I can hear my neighbors cough, talk, use their micro-wave oven or even open close their fridge door.
How can I investigate this?


texts: Can I drill another set of holes in my studs to mount a TV?

texts:
I currently have a 47 inch TV which is mounted onto studs in my wall which is good.

But now I plan to get 70 inch TV which means my existing wall mount frame must move a little upwards to fit above the fireplace.

So, I am thinking to take off the existing screws and drill another set of holes a little above the existing holes.

Is it OK to drill multiple holes in the studs?


texts: On my GE oven, the hot cooktop indicator light has begun staying on all the time.  I know that the thermostat for each burner is an integral part of the burner, so I will check each burner for continuity to isolate which one has a bad thermostat.  Since the burners all still work, and I am the only one who uses the stove, is there really any reason to replace the burner just to eliminate the false positive warning light?


texts: Moving a circuit from one panel too another

texts: I have 4 sub panels in my home and I want to move two 20amp breakers from one into another. I want to run #12 Romex from the one panel too the other and use the original panel and just splice each circuit. My question if the neutral stays in the original box can I just move the hot leg


texts: I'm concerned that the insulation/ cardboard foil that's behind my recessed radiator is asbestos. My house was built in 1960. Does anyone know if they made that stuff with asbestos? Before purchasing my home I had the insulation checked in the attic and also in the old boiler. I was glad to find out that there was no asbestos.


texts: Matching wood stain to paintable plastic

texts: I have stained cedar siding on house.  Recently installed new HVAC system with paintable plastic covers on the exterior of house.  How do I match the stain on wood to paint on covers?


texts:
I want to fix my gate latch. The problem is where the latch used to be nailed into gate door, there are now oversized holes in them because the fastening point failed and the nails came out.

What's the best approach to fix?

I have two ideas in mind.

Idea number one is to fill the holes with some chemical that will simultaneously bond with the wood on the inside of the holes and also hold some screws I will drive into it. Hot glue is my first option because I have it available. Second option is epoxy.

My other idea is a little more elaborate, difficult and time consuming. It involves cutting out the entire section of wood surrounding the failed holes, then reattaching a similar sized section using a couple pieces of sheet metal, each with one end attached to the patch piece and the rest of the gate. But this seems like overkill. So I really like the hot glue idea.

What's the best way to approach this?


texts: Lath and Plaster Framing: a Floating 2x4?

texts:
I'm putting a bathroom in upstairs. I sistered the joists (red arrows), but there is a 2x4 (blue arrow) laying flat directly above a wall that is between the downstairs office and the dinning room. It's not laying on lath though. It's up ~1/4" because these pieces (blue arrows) are holding it up 1/4".

What is this 2x4 for that is seemingly hovering over the top of the downstairs wall, and can I cut out 12" to run a drain past it?


texts:
Lights stopped working on a 48" 2-lamp fluorescent fixture in the laundry room. Figured this to be a ballast issue, but I bought new LED tubes in addition to a new T8 ballast.

I put the new bulbs in first, just in case, and one bulb would briefly flicker once - and that's it. Switched the bulbs, and the same bulb briefly flickered while on the other side.

Started to then wire up the new ballast, until I realized the coloring and wires are different from existing ballast to new. The existing ballast is IG230ELSX, and has a black and white coming from on the left of the ballast, and two reds, two blues, and two yellows from the right side of the ballast. Two reds go directly to two reds on one socket of the right side of the lamp, and two blues go directly to two blues on the other socket on the right side of the lamp. The two yellows go to a socket on the left side of the lamp, and then a black jumper wire from that socket to the other socket on that same side. Black and white go to hot and neutral from the ceiling.

Now, the new ballast from Lowes is a GE PC16112, and is indicated to be appropriate for 120V 2-lamp T8s. But, it has black and white coming from the left of the ballast, and only two blues and one red on the right side of the ballast. What am I left to do with the yellow wires that are wired to the left side of my lamp, and the lack of an additional red?

Not sure if this is coincidental or not, but I replaced the light switches for new rocker switches a few weeks prior to this happening. It's on a three-way switch, so I uninstalled and reinstalled new ones, just to eliminate that as a variable.

Thoughts???


texts: Can this failing concrete patio be resurfaced and how?

texts:
Parts of my concrete patio are eroding from around the gravel on the surface.  I think it was built in the 70s or 80s.    Some parts of the patio are in great condition, others are very bad.  Shown below is the worst part and a close-up of it.
Question: What is causing this failure, can I stop it and/or is there a way I can resurface it as a DIY project?

Next image shows both fair and bad spots in the same area:

Next image shows the tile in best shape:


texts: How do I hang a new wooden gate so that it automatically stays closed when it is shut but also stays open at its maximum open span?

texts:
I am building and hanging a new wooden double gate.  How do I construct and/or balance the gate so that when I open it completely, which is at 90 degrees, it will stay open but also when I close it, it stays closed?

Yes, I might put a self-locking latch so that when it is closed, it automatically catches and stays closed.   Is there another way to do this?  I plan to use a dead-bolt type lock, and would prefer that you not have to unlatch it to open the gate when not locked.

This is an double gate, where one gate door is 40" wide the other is only 20".  I'd like both sides to behave the same, staying open and closed.  I am not overly concerned about very windy days, where the wind might defeat a balanced system.

Here's an another way to look at what I am thinking:
(originally I was not thinking that the gate should move towards open, or closed, but I now see this as desirable).

For various reasons I am planning on using a hinge similar to this:
I might be persuaded not to do use this if it helped to achieve my desired outcome.

I could use gravity to make the gate stay closed by itself.  The trick is, I think, that I also want the gate door to stay open too, when I open it.

EDIT: Closer!   I find that there are weld-on hinges for chain-link fences that do this, and that they make "Rising Hinges" or "Lift Off Hinges" that do half the job.  Many of these are designed to use gravity to automatically close a door but all of them seem to sell only as wholesale items.

Related:
How can I make a door open or close depending on the door position? (good and useful answer here too),
How do I adjust a door so it doesn't swing on its own?
and How to keep door open or closed automatically?


texts: Code compliant way to hookup an electrical oven?

texts:
I’m doing a kitchen remodel.
For the oven connection, the electrician ran #8 wire (two hot, one neutral, one ground) to the kitchen but didn’t put in an outlet.
Additionally, the cord out of my Bosch oven doesn’t come with a plug either. The cord is enclosed in flexible metal conduit and has four wires (two hot, one neutral, one ground) coming out of it. The wires have already been stripped to 1/2”.
My question: what is the code compliant way to hookup my oven?
While I don’t anticipate needing the move the oven, it’ll be nice to be able to unplug it if I needed to get back in there to clean stuff.
I opened the oven and there’s no easy way to replace the cord with another one that has a plug. So, I can’t easily put in a 40amp outlet on the junction box to plug in the oven.


texts: How can I fix/modify my tub/shower combo so the water comes out of the showerhead?

texts:
My house has a guest bathroom that has a shower/tub combo, but I realized there seems to be no way to get the water to come out of the showerhead instead of the faucet. There is a volume and temperature control which is identical to the one in the stand-up shower, but nothing on the faucet to pull up to control where the water comes out. There's nothing on the showerhead either. All I can figure is the previous owner swapped out some hardware when they left, but I have no idea what. Is there some easy fix to this? Am I a moron and missing something obvious?

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge


texts: Low voltage LEDs fluctuate from full to half to off and repeat

texts:
I purchased and installed 100' of 16/2 wire and eight lamps (LED Lawn Light 12W 2800K AC/ DC 12V) and Malibu’s  200 Watt Low Voltage Transformer. 96 watts of lamps, I was told, would be perfect for a 200 watt transformer.
I carefully installed the system checking each item as I completed it. The transformer was placed 18 inches from the outdoor ground fault plug with the nearby light sensor. The first light was installed 22' from the transformer with connectors to each of the wires from the lamp. Each time I connected another lamp, I would double check that each connection was successful by turning on the transformer. I then buried the wire 2 1/2 to 3" beneath the mulch after safely taping each connector. The last lamp was attached 18" from the end of the cable.
Testing each connection showed a prefect system installation. However, when the sun set and the system came on automatically, lights began to blink, not in unison, but alternately at random. Each light had full brightness for about 45 seconds, then go to half for about 20  seconds and then turn off for about a minute before it would turn on again with full force to repeat the pattern.
As time has continued, I find the connectors of the cable and the lamps disconnect (lousy connectors, I think, but Amazon reviewers say they are best) and at this time only one lamp is lite. Even with the one lamp it jumps back and forth from full to half every two minutes or so but unlike before, it does not turn off. I now have a full system that is unusable.
Can you help in any way with advise or whatever? Thank you very much.


texts: Concrete sealant vs spraying to cure a concrete slab

texts: Yesterday I poured a 9ft x 9ft x 5 inch slab and I am wondering if spraying the slab with water is better than using cure and seal during the curing process.  I have also seen some people build a small dam around the slab to hold an inch or so of water.  Which is the best way? Thanks.


texts: Carlon single-outlet box with bar hanger?

texts:
Location: US.

I need to move a baseboard outlet up to become a wall outlet (new flooring atop old flooring) and I'd like to keep the outlet centered on the wall, midway between wall studs.

Do they make a single outlet box with bar hangers, like this, only with an outlet box:


texts: How should I contain dust during a remodel?

texts:
I am about to start on a remodel project that involves framing in part of the attic for a bonus room. More importantly this will also involve knocking down a few walls near the living room and kitchen in order to make room for stair. I suspect there will be a decent amount of dust created through this.

My question is, what is the best way to contain this dust? Will simply taping some plastic up be enough? If I do use plastic, how do I allow walking from the construction side to the living side? An additional bonus if easily achievable is the ability to dampen sound from one side to the other.


texts: How can I reattach a kitchen cabinet door hinge with plastic dowels?

texts:
I was hoping that maybe someone could give me some recommendations what to do with my kitchen cupboard door. It came off after a washing machine next to it started "walking" during the spinning cycle and as it was so intense and there was no room for it to move, it broke the door. It is a heavy 5KG door and is fixed using these plastic dovels (see pics).

Anything I can do to repair this?


texts: What screws to affix TV mount to wooden stud partition?

texts:
A 70" TV weighing 35kg is being mounted on stud partition wall using a fixed position TV mount which is 600mm wide. It will hit two studs approximately 230mm apart in the centre of the TV mount. While studs are normally 600mm apart, they are closer together beside a concrete column which is hidden by the plasterboard over it.

The wall has 12.5mm plasterboard over 6mm plywood over the stud partition.

The TV Mount (rated for 100kg) came with 6.3x55mm screws and wall plugs for use in a variety of materials - brick/concrete/wood.

Should I use the included screws or instead use Goldscrew Woodscrews or TurboCoach Coach Screws? If so, what diameter and length would you suggest?

Here's what came with the TV mount. Looks like they suggest driving the screws straight into the wood, however I assume for a screw of this size a pilot hole should be used?


texts: Are generator interlock kits permitted in residential applications?

texts:
There have been some questions on the site lately, that reference using interlock kits with portable generators.

This has inspired me to read through article 702 Optional Standby Systems of the NEC (which is short so it wasn't much effort), where I found the following items that seem relevant.

NEC 2008
702.5 Capacity and Rating.
(B) System Capacity.
(1) Manual Transfer Equipment.  Where manual transfer equipment is used, an optional standby system shall have adequate capacity and
rating for the supply of all equipment intended to be operated at one
time. The user of the optional standby system shall be permitted to
select the load connected to the system.

So in the case of an interlock, would the generator have to be rated to supply the whole house, or only the items the user wants to run (which could change at any time)?

702.6 Transfer Equipment. Transfer equipment shall be suitable for the intended use and designed and installed so as to prevent the
inadvertent interconnection of normal and alternate sources of supply
in any operation of the transfer equipment.

A properly installed interlock seems to meet this requirement, so there's nothing here to prevent one. However, there is an exception to this section which may disallow the use of interlocks in residential systems.

Exception: Temporary connection of a portable generator without transfer equipment shall be permitted where conditions of maintenance
and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the
installation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by a
lockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supply
conductors.

In my mind, this sentence "where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation". Would mean an interlock cannot be installed in a residential panel, because there is no way to prevent the homeowner from servicing the installation.
Are interlocks a cheap and easy solution for homeowners, or can they not be used in residential situations?
Update
I found this interesting response in this thread, on the Electrical Contractor Network Forum. Which appears to be from a representative from a company who makes these types of devices.

Which basically says the device is NEC compliant because it's the user that is the transfer equipment, not the device.
I also found this semi-related, not relevant to the question at hand, section in the NEC.

408.36 Overcurrent Protection.
(D) Back-Fed Devices. Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are backfed and used to
terminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall be
secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a
pull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel.

Which means if you're backfeeding through a breaker, you'll need to strap the breaker in place somehow.