texts: Thermal cameras for AC issues, especially cell phone types

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I live in SW Florida so energy use is largely air conditioning. Our electric bill is much larger than I think correct based on comparisons to others, but I can find nothing specifically wrong - I tried checking the meter with an "The Energy Detective", and it seemed about right. Checking individual loads of devices turned up nothing, I think it is just how much the AC systems run.

I am trying to get my head around what really contributes to AC energy costs down here. I have heard that attic insulation is relatively less important than in cold climates, but that air leaks are more important. I do not know if either is true. I can see that I have quite a lot of air leaks (unsealed electrical holes, open wall interiors with no header into the attic poorly stuffed with insulation). Fixing ALL is a big job, so looking to find a way to tell what is most important, and having a real effect; if perhaps it is something else entirely like walls or windows.

So...

The cell camera thermal imagers are getting better and better. I ask this not become a "which one" but rather a general question (or two):

Are they worth the effort for trying to track down the worst offenders for correction?  Or am I better off with other types of tests (e.g. a pressure test with smoke to look for leaks)?  Are these inexpensive ones good enough to use, or should one punt and rent a professional quality one?

If they are worth the effort (either cell devices, or rentals), are there techniques specifically that may be best for looking for cooling inefficiencies, air leaks, etc.?  Or just look on the inside for red, and outside and attic for blue?


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I want to create a box. I am using a lap joint for the top and bottom frame.

For the vertical sides I need help. The pictures show the two ideas I had.

But there must be a better way to attach the vertical pieces instead of being inside or outside like I have drawn them. Ideally I would like the corner of the vertical support to flush with the corner of the horizontal frame corner. I could toe-nail thr vertical into the frames, but that seems very weak to me

Requirments:

1) strong - I don't want the structure to "fold" if it is leaned on
2) flush to the long and short sides because I want MDF on one side and doors on the long face to create storage.
2a) for doors I will need more vertical members to create a door opening. Basically I'm creating a built-in entertainment centre as the end result


texts: Ballcock-like mechanism for infinite cycles

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I'm going to build a mechanism (as simple as possible) like the ballcock system used in flush toilet. But mine should be able to continuously discharge and refill automatically.
I already have a draft idea how to do it: referring to a classical ballcock system I would remove the handle and connect the lift arm to the flush valve flapper.
In this way when the float reach the fill position will automatically trigger the discharge.
Before reinvent the wheel from scratch I wonder if this system has a specific name so I can find other resources or even products.
The goal is to discharge fixed amount of water every a given time. Playing with the geometry I should be able to define the interval of discharge and the amount of water to flush.


texts: Fire safety for room on interior of home

texts: I’m looking at a house that has a room on the interior (highlighted in red below) with no window/door to the outside of the area. Knowing that this isn’t fire code compliant to be considered a bedroom, what could be done to make it safer? I’m thinking about condo fire code and having a sprinkler system in the home or would it require fire extinguishers?


texts: Can I use foil bubble insulation inside the house on exterior walls?

texts: I am retired and on a very limited income and this house needs some insulation! The walls are cold in the interior (the walls that are not interior type walls but on the other side is the outside.). Would tacking the radiant reflective foil bubble insulation to the wall and covering that with fabric be a good solution? Would that present vapor collection and mold problems on the walls themselves under the radiant reflective foil insulation?


texts: Prevent washer from leaving brown splotchy stains on clothes

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Our clothes will periodically come out of our washing machine with brown splotchy stains. I suspect it's either rust or oil/grease getting into the drum. How can I  diagnose what it is exactly, and prevent it from happening?

Edit: I have wiped down the top of the drum, both on the inside and above the drum where it meets the metal chassis of the washer.

I also removed and cleaned the fabric softner container, and removed the agitator and cleaned the inside and below the agitator (there was a ton of built up dirt). After removing the agitator, I cleaned that in the sink with soap, water, and baking soda. I cleaned by filling the drum with hot water (as if about to start a cycle), and then adding a cup of bleach and cup of baking soda, while leaving the door open. After letting soak for an hour, I scrubbed the place where the agitator attaches to the bottom of the drum and wiped down all the loose dirt.

I also stumbled upon an errant bobby pin, which I suspect has been the real culprit here. Will answer this question if the splotches disappear. Thanks to @ noybman for all the help.


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I just moved into a new flat and there seems to be some black spots in the kitchen sink(image attached).Is this black mold?How can I get rid of them safely?

PS: There is some black mold lining on the wall in the outer edge of the sink.And I am allergic to bleach

Update : I tried scrubbing it today with dish soap and it washed away very easily. I am now more worried if that could be mold or just dirt/buildup :(


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What's the easiest and best solution to cover my main water shut-off valve in the basement?

Cut drywall to the dimensions and put a handle on it, or a plastic cover with the right dimensions, or is there another option?


texts: What is the right type of contractor to fix slightly damaged house siding corner

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Sorry if I'm using incorrect terminology.

A car slightly damaged a corner of the house siding and I'm not sure what type of contractor should take a look into that. I need to make sure that it's properly fixed and sealed so that the moisture doesn't build up inside in the future.


texts: Best way to create a simple and economic steam machine for steaming wood?

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I want to build a simple steam machine for steaming wood to bend.

To do this I must place the wood into a sealed PVC pipe and pump steam into it. The PVC pipe part is the easiest part. Producing steam in a simple and economic way is where I need help.

I was thinking of simply using the element from an electric kettle, but these use quite a lot of electricity - the wood must be steamed for at least an hour. I also looked at a clothing steamer, but these seem too weak.

'Pumping' the steam into the PVC pipe is not a problem, as long as the pipe is higher than the steam source, so there is no need for forced induction.

Has anyone built something like this before?

Would anyone know a way of building a simple and cheap steam making machine?


texts: Buzzing sound relates to domestic fuse problem, or bigger issue?

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I noticed the light in the fridge was flickering, same with the coffee machine LEDs etc on the same plug circuit.

Fortunately, I noticed that in the garage...this house built about 18 yrs ago; this in the US, South...

... there was a buzzing / crackling sound coming from that powerboard.

It would buzz or crackle every 3-4 seconds for a second. You could hear it quite clearly if close (but not from say a few feet way).  I carefully checked for burning smell and could not smell any smells at all.

When I turned "off" the fuse (turns out it was "#12") the crackling completely stopped.

Here is the type of fuse (apologies if fuse/powerboard are not the correct terms).

Perhaps a "type QP" ?

Now, I've simply left that fuse turned off (plugged the fridge/etc in different plugs). (1) there is absolutely no buzzing now from anywhere on the powerboard.  (2) as far as I can tell, every other outlet in the house is working perfectly - no flickering lights/devices.

Note however that, perhaps disturbingly, the buzzing sound I heard seemed to come from the area indicated (up top left) rather than from "near the fuse thing" I turned off - of course it's hard to tell exactly, and it may mean nothing.

What I'm wondering,

1) Is it likely that the only problem is the "QP" fuse unit thing?  Or is it more likely some greater problem, perhaps in the powerboard generally or even the house wiring?

2) That type of fuse unit ("QP") - can I replace it, or is it a professional job? I note that the central strip of gray metal suggests one would have to pull off the whole powerboard plate / fascia? to get at it.

3) What is the scale of cost of those "QP" (?) units (ie, are they like "two dollars" or like "a thousand dollars")

Just FTR if it helps...

... that appears to be the rating of the house (it's a big house, we just rent it. I feel bad for the owner when they have to fix stuff!)

Again fundamentally, are these user-replaceable; at any rate is it likely a bigger problem which needs to be checked by a pro?

(Previous domestic powerboards like that which I have seen: the fuse-units just pop in and out for replacement - of course, I could be completely mistaken, and the situation varies in Europe, USA etc.)  Cheers, experts!


texts: Paint on stranded copper wire twisted together with a wire nut -- dangerous?

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Putting new light fixtures into an old house. Wires are stranded copper with a little paint on some of the stranded copper part.
Normally I'd cut it off and expose a little more wire, out of an abundance of caution. The thing is, this is an extremely short wire coming directly out of a massive bundle of wires... it would be next to impossible to strip off a little more insulation and twist my wire nut on.
Is a little paint a hazard for two stranded copper wires twisted together in a wire nut? There is plenty of copper-to-copper contact within the wire nut... but some of it will have paint in the way. Can this cause sparks or heat? (Will be behind an AFCI breaker.) Or will the electricity just flow through the low-resistance areas where the copper is touching directly?


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After doing some replacement for the ac, the contactor stopped working. It won't close when I turn the ac on. when I pushed it in, the compressor was able to start.

I can't go out to find a new one until next week, and it's relly hot this weekend.

So, can I temporarily glue it closed?
And does change the contactor is enough?

Sincerely,
Alt


texts: Can the foundation for my garden shed be underground?

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We are building a garden studio on a sloped ground. I am totally confused in regards to the concrete base.
To have an even base we didn't have to dig out ground at the back on the building but the front is 50cm into the ground. That is where our highest point from the ground of 2.5m will be.
The question is: can my base at the highest point be under ground or not?
Will my 2.5m roof be counted from the ground level or from my base level under ground?


texts: How do I vertically connect two 4x4s on a deck to build a roof?

texts: I have a deck I am going to put a roof over. It has 4x4s for vertical supports that I need to extend upward to attach my trusses to. What is the best way to connect two vertical 4x4s?


texts: Conduit through wall with low power and AC

texts: I want to run a new 20A service and 2x POE lines from my basement to my garage. Can I put them in the same pieces of conduit or do I need two? Piece of conduit would be less than  1 foot in length.


texts: How do I remove this type of screw/insert?

texts: How do I remove this type of screw? These are on the corners of a bed frame we are trying disassemble


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I am upgrading my service to 200 AMP.
Since the location of the old service is behind a cabinet, we moved the main panel to a different area. This put it more than 15 feet away so we have a 200 amp service disconnect outside and my "main panel" is now considered a sub-panel.

I'm trying to install a new 36kW instant hot water tank.
Tempra 36 Plus http://www.stiebel-eltron-usa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/install-tempra.pdf

I'm concerned because this installation guides calls out this model needs a min 300 Amp service. It requires 3 X 50 Amp breakers. My inspector gave my load calc the ok and this is the main reason we are upgrading our service. This hot water tank is pretty over sized for my home so I'm not really worried about drawing the full 150 amps.

Am I able to use 50 amp breakers in a 200 amp panel, or is there some size restriction?


texts: How to fit a pvc window to a corrugated metal shed

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I have a corrugated metal shed which i want to fit a pvc window. I am not so sure how should i approach to this. The shed looks like the one pictured below but there are 2 vertical perimeter channels on the gable end ( Same as the side walls in the picture)

I know these bars wont carry the load of the window alone so i need to build some sort of a supporting timber frame but i need some advice on this since the gable end of the shed usually takes some strong winds and a lot of rain.

Also, whats the best way to water proof groove shape of the metal sheeting? expanding foam?

groove depth is 32 mm on the sheets and the supporting horizontal perimeter channel behind is 35 mm
Upvc window is 70mm thick with 60mm slot at the bottom

Here is crappy thing i drew on ms paint which might be useful :)
grooves are actually running vertical, so not like the drawing


texts: What can I do about pocket doors that are blocked by floor tiles?

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I have double pocket doors in my den that I never close.  I was going to clean them today, and when I tried to close them they would not close because of the tile being to high. I had the tile put in about 3 yrs ago, and never even noticed that the tile is to high.  I thought it was because of the grout keeping them from closing, but it's the tile. I was able to get one of them to come out a little, but the other will not budge. Do you have a solution for this without having to take the tile out.

Click for full size image


texts: How do I make my bathroom pipes more practical?

texts: I need to install a new vanity in my bathroom but I'm not sure what to do about the plumbing for under the sink. I believe the present location of the sink was originally where the bathtub was. The pipes for the faucet come out of the floor behind the sink on one wall. The drain pipe goes through another wall (on the left side) and also through the floor. It is awkward and takes up a ridiculous amount of space and is making it difficult to choose a vanity. Would you be able to tell me what would need to be done to fix this problem? Is it a simple fix or is it something major? I would appreciate any advice or suggestions.


texts: Does air trapped in water pipe disturb the meter reading?

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I have about 7 meters of PVC pipe connected to the water meter. Some of this pipe is above the meter level so some air sure gets trapped inside.

Is it possible that the air in pipes expand and contract changing the meter reading? In a 24 hour period, my meter registered 50 liters of water. I checked the pipes many times and haven't found any leaks (the pipes are exposed). At that rate the leaking should be pretty visible, right?

I was watching the meter now (noon, full sun) and I could see it registering some hundred ml in a few minutes, but no drops anywhere.


texts: Help identify a mystery brass part along the water line

texts: What's the function of the brass piece along the water supply line. This is the supply line for a hydronic floor heating system. Something is malfunctioning and one of the possibilities is that I have an air pocket somewhere along the line. I'm wondering if this device is there to somehow release the air from the system.


texts: How to further disassemble cordless drill/driver chuck?

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I've completely disassembled cordless drill/driver Black&Decker EGBL188 H1 10mm, except this chuck, as seen in the pictures.

I've tried pulling out the plastic piece: I've put the chuck facing up on a bench vice so that only plastic piece touched the vice. And then, I've tried hammering out the chuck leaving the plastic piece on the bench vice.

But I unfortunately I had little to no success, it doesn't seem like it moved at all. Maybe there is some 0.5mm free move to it. I don't want to hammer with my maximum strength, because I feel like it can damage the chuck.

Because of my lack of experience, I don't know how to succeed further disassembling the chuck. Does anybody has done it? Should I hammer with all strength?


texts: Should this section of water line be replaced?

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This is the water supply line coming into my basement. 4 feet below the ground (frost line). My house is from 1940 and I assume that everything in these pictures are original.

I recently converted from galvanized steel to pex beyond the water meter for my entire downstairs due to water pressure issues. I can't do the upstairs yet because I'm not ready to tear down walls and upstairs is getting full pressure so things are good.

Anyways, if I ask the city to shut off the water at the street then would I be able to safely unscrew either that short pipe or the valve? I would use copper and continue the run to my pex transition. I have a sawzall with appropriate blades for cutting steel.

During my project I tried unscrewing a few runs of pipe with pipe wrenches and one of the joints simply broke off instead of unscrewing so if that happens here then I'm not sure about how I would proceed.

We bought the house 3 years ago and it has looked like this the whole time.

Any insight is appreciated!


texts: How do I tell difference between doorbell transformer and furnace transformer?

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I’ve been searching for way too long for the doorbell transformer in our house (I suspect it’s not putting quite enough juice for a Nest Hello doorbell setup as the Nest Hello works but the chime doesn’t sound because the solenoid moves but not as much as it needs to).

Anyway, I’ve been looking for this doorbell transformer in all the typical places, such as behind the chime or the button, in the circuit breaker panels, garage, closets, attic, crawl space, etc. and not finding it.

The one thing I found that looks like a transformer is on top of a galvanized metal switch in the closet with the furnace (Trane XL-80 gas furnace). I was guessing that it was a furnace transformer, but is it possible that this is the doorbell transformer?!

Update: What is this?


texts: My ceiling fan is sparking even though i have turned its switch off. What to do? Will it cause a fire?

texts: I was sitting in my room when I noticed that the ceiling fan was sparking and causing fumes. I tried turning it off but neither it stopped spining nor sparking. I'm really worried about whether it will cause a fire or something. It stopped only upon switching off the main supply. Pls help me asap.


texts: I have one inside switch that turns on 3 porch lights. I would like to install a ceiling fan where the middle light is but do not want the other two lights on the same circuit to turn on. How can I separate the switch control?


texts: Are grounded receptacles with open grounds causing my electrical problems?

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I have a room that has six outlets. Two of which are healthy with ground and ~120V coming through. The other four report open ground with one of the four not working at all (no juice). I've checked the voltage and the ground receptacles in the four don't respond at all (as in testing it with the Hot receptacle).

All outlets had ground at one point with two lost from a power outage a while back. The two I lost recently were from a safety practice that required me to power down the surge protectors, cutting power to the electronics connected to them.

Upon repowering them, the lights went out, but the breaker did not trip. A voltage test (eep!) at the breaker showed that the breaker (15A) was fine (pumping ~120v through).
I should note that the outlets have two surge protectors connected with a variety of electronic devices connected including a PC, surround sound and a Dyson heater.

My current problem is that resetting the breaker did not restore power back to that room, and my only suspicion that its from the open ground outlets, but turning on more than one light outside the room can "trip" the circuit. What do I do?


texts: Can I restore a bathroom sink with automotive filler and spray on enamel?

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I have a bathroom sink in my old house that looks authentic for the time period, but is very old and chipped.

I thought this might be a good way to give it a new lease on life: Patch up the chips with Automotive filler (aka bondo or bog) and then spray the whole thing over with spray on enamel.

I just wanted to ask peoples advice here: is this a feasible idea? Or not a good thing to do?


texts: How do I prevent water from leaking into my basement?

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How do I prevent rain water from leaking directly into the basement? As you can see in the diagram below, rain water drains into small concrete cracks (near the bright red line shown below) and finds its way into my basement.  Over the years I have tried a couple things to help remedy this situation.

added a pipe connected to my gutter to push water away from the house
dug out dirt near pipe and put new cement

But despite doing this I am still getting water in the basement when it rains.

Now I'm thinking about breaking the concrete and dig into the outdoor patio area near the bright red line shown below and tightly repack with dirt.  Then add another layer of cement on top of the repacked dirt. But I'm not sure what else I can do?

I would really appreciate if the community could provide suggestions on how to keep rain water away from going into the basement.


texts: Hot water not working in house that I am remodeling. I’ve never seen this setup before...canceled out water heater with pilot light on?


texts: My new house was built in 1966 and I've been told by the inspector and the electrician that put in the GFCI outlets that the meter and box are grounded but that no third wire was run through the house. I was told that I could either replace all outlets with GFCI outlets or that I could run a grounding wire from the green screw on the outlet to the metal box. Which is better?


texts: What should I use to repair plaster in a bathroom?

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Our house was built in 1941, so all original walls are plaster (I'm assuming lath and plaster?). This is true for the bathroom in question. The walls in this bathroom are plaster, and are painted with latex paint. Where the shower curtain rod is in contact with the wall, the plaster has begun to break away, most likely due to continued exposure to moisture. I noticed this when I went to swap out the rod for a new one, and began to peel some of the bubbling paint away. See the picture for detailed shots.

My question is what I should use to repair this damage. I've read that normal spackling can be used to repair minor plaster damage, but is that best to use in a moist bathroom setting? Or do I need to go the route of dry mix plaster that I smooth over?

And as a side question, if there are any suggestions for what I could do to not have the shower rod in direct contact with the wall, that would also be appreciated. Thanks.


texts: Why won't toilet flush after replacing wax ring?

texts: OK, so I'm not a professional plumber but I've replaced many wax rings before. Toilet worked perfectly fine before until I noticed a little leak at bottom of toilet. I replaced the worn out wax ring. There are no more leaks but this time the water overflows and just won't have that swirling flush! Very slooow drain. There;s no blockage, no leaks and eb=ven replaced the wax ring a second time, just in case. I'm stumped! Just can't figure it out. Plunging, snaking and chemicals won't flush the toilet. Any ideas?


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We live in a 260sf tiny house. Currently we are running a 5k btu and an 8k btu and they are not cooling well enough. Both A/C's are about 3 years old. This is only 1 room + a bathroom so only a single wall dividing. I clean the filters every week with soap to make sure nothing is blocking. That's about how often the filter light comes on.
Is this really not enough strength? Or do I just need to replace the units with a new 10k? From everything I've looked at the 8k alone should cool for this sq ft

Yes, very small. When I say tiny home, I mean literally the definition of tiny home (1 room plus a bathroom). I know there is a humidity issue as we are just outside Houston. I've noticed the smaller one, which is a 5050 btu, even though it is blowing cold it isn't putting out much force. The larger one never cycles off even during the  mornings. The Windows are double paned. Door is sealed.
In the morning it is cold as it should be inside, but by noon it's pushing 80°. By 5pm, it can be close to 90° and God forbid I'm cooking anything.
In the winter it stays perfectly warm with an oil heater even during freezing temps. I'm not trying to make it walk in cooler temperature. I'm wanting it to be a decent 73°-75°. I'll see about the temp output on the larger one. Seems pointless on the smaller if it doesn't seem to put out much air flow


texts: How much concrete floor cutting should I expect in this new layout for my basement bathroom?

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I am assuming that relocating the vanity is the most difficult thing here. The plumbing is copper. Should I continue with copper of connect with plastic PEX.
Below is the old layout. In the old layout, on the top floor there is another toilet for which a very little portion of the drain elbow is visible near the basement ceiling and it possibly runs through the wall that separates the basement vanity from the basement toilet. Could that be so ? (drain running through that wall?

An this is the new layout


texts: How should I install a french drain in this situation, and will it help?

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I need to install a french drain to prevent the water from getting to the wall of my house. The water is coming off a patio, here is the layout

I would like to understand a couple of things:

1) How effective is a french drain that is so close to the wall as in the picture below:

Below is a drawing (not mine) representing a french drain. Just to be clear, Our house does have gutters, clean and with no problems.

The above picture shows a foil of plastic that is installed in the french drain before anything. Doesn't that defeat the whole purpose, which is to collect water from the near by area in all directions?
On the other side my concern regarding to the effectiveness of a french drain that is built attached to the wall of the house is questioning an issue that could be easily avoided by installing such a plastic foil on the side of the trench that faces the house wall. My concern is that in the eventuality that something goes wrong with the french drain the water will collect close to the house wall and it will actually aggravate the problem.

2) I also don't understand, in the absence of the plastic foil, what prevents the water from getting further below the gravel in any direction. The only time when the pipe will collect water is when the amount of water is more than the soil at the bottom of the french drain can absorb which is not very often.

3) The depth of the trench should be 24". Isn't that too deep?

Home depot recommends a patio excavation of around 8-9".

  EXCAVATE
         The highest point of a patio surface can be as much as an inch above grade-enough so that the lowest section is at grade. Remove the sod. Then remove 4½ inches of soil plus the thickness of the pavers to make room for the 4-inch gravel bed and a 1½-inch sand base, leaving the lowest surface of the pavers 1 inch above grade. Excavate the rest of the patio, following the slope of the lines.

4) I am not sure about the soil that is under the patio but the surface of my patio is clearly not graded. The yard of my house is graded toward the North of the below picture. My question is: can I grade just the section that is north of the raised deck? The area under the deck and the area south of the deck is not getting lots of water and the wall is fine in that area.

5) If I have the french drain installed as in the layout from the first picture will it be effective since there is a 90 degree turn at the corner of the house?


texts: Do I need a replacement attic vapour barrier after asbestos removal?

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I recently had our Zonolite vermiculite asbestos professionally removed. The company used a large vacuum truck to remove it. They also ripped out the 6mm plastic vapour barrier in the attic. They explained that it was necessary to do so to remove the settled asbestos dust.

Currently, I have no insulation in my attic. I was going to go and put either fibreglass batts or blow in fibreglass insulation. However, I am concerned about not having a vapour barrier. The abatement company tells me that I don't need a vapour barrier in the ceiling/attic as the attic is well vented and as long as I install the insulation to at least R-40.

If we had to replace the vapour barrier, I am not even sure how I would do that. The trusses are 2x4 trusses, 24" apart. It seems that it would be a lot of work trying to re-install a vapour barrier underneath the trusses but above the drywall.


texts: Will nailing vinyl over my wall ruin the paint over time?

texts: I have some noisy neighbors and my landlord has given me permission to nail mass loaded vinyl over the offending window. The vinyl will remain in place for about 6 months. Is there any risk that over time the vinyl could stick to the paint and ruin the wall when I take it off?


texts: Changing a 3 gang Australian light switch to a Smart switch

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I am wanting to change the older style Australian 3 gang light switch with a new ‘Smart’ wifi 3 gang switch.

I just need some help in getting the wiring in the right place.  I have included pictures of the old and new switches.

Any help would appreciated.

Existing switch and wiring

New switch


texts: Trying to replace a single switch to a double switch with only 1 black wire

texts: ]2I have installed an exhaust fan in my bathroom.  There is an existing switch operating the light.  I want to hook up the fan to this box using a double switch. My issue is there are only 3 wires: white, black, and ground. There once was a ceiling light which was replaced with wall lights on both side of the medicine cabinet.  The light box is still in the ceiling with live wires capped.  Can anyone explain how to best repair this? Ideally, I would like to disconnect the ceiling box altogether and just have the light and fan work from the single box using a double switch.


texts: Replacing an Intermatic EJ351 mechanical light switch timer with a wifi Smart Switch KS-602 timer in 1935 house

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In the entry way of my 1935 home, there is a double switch box. One switch is a basic,two wire light switch controlling the indoor entry light. The other switch is a mechanical Intermatic EJ351 timer switch controlling the porch light. Each switch uses only two wires.
Coming from the conduit attached to the box are three cloth covered wires. They are old and very dirty, but, appear to be in good condition. The colors don't make sense to me. One appears to be red, one green and one black. Using a meter set at 200 VAC, I put the black probe to the junction box (as ground) and tested each wire with the red probe. The black and red wires showed no voltage, but, the green wire has full line voltage. The black wire is connected to the simple light switch, the red wire is connected to the mechanical timer and the green wire is connected to both. My limited knowledge of house wiring thereby suggests that the red and black wires are both neutral and the green is "hot". Not withstanding the colors, I would have thought there would be two hot, one neutral and a ground wire. At least the box appears to be a good ground.
The question is, how do I wire the Smart Switch KS-602 or can I even use it? It requires four wire connections which they label load, line, ground and neutral. I assume ground I can connect to the box, the red to the neutral, the green to line, but, what do I connect to load, another neutral?
Thank you for any help.
Allan


texts: What are the pros and cons for covering a steel fence post in wood?

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While this looks nice on picture and it theory I am seeing a couple of problems here:
-I don't think that the hollow box design will stand the time and the weather test. The screws are set on the side of the 2x4s in order to make the box stay in one piece. The 2x4s might crack over time especially if they sit outdoor
-the bottom side will be allways in contact with the soil unless something is put the so there is a good chance that this will rot in time
 Please share your experience and confirm if the above are true or false assumptions, based on your experience


texts:
Just moved into 5yr old home, was looking to expand a garage outlet to afford more outlets.  The outlet is below the panel is a GGCI outlet, however, the circuit breaker is not, so, I am going to change that, well I bought the wrong one, however, then inspected the other GFCIs in the box and noted that the load neutral is going to the neutral bus with the GFCI neutral connecting to the same bus.  I noticed the GFCI wires were all squiggly and not neatly run, then I disconnected one and it arced when it hit the panel box.  I thought this problematic, but, reformed the neutral wire strands and put it back where I found it, again, it arced again.

Reading about the interweb, it appears that the load neutral is meant to go to the circuit breaker where a slot is provided then the stranded neutral from the GFCI is supposed to go to the neutral bar.

First, why is the stranded neutral from the GFCI arcing?

Secondly, do I have to rewire all the GFCI circuit breakers?


texts: Attic Fan coil short cycles in heat mode

texts:
My attic fan coil unit (MBX-HW) fan will short cycle in heat mode.  On for 20sec  off for 20sec.  Worked fine in cool mode last Summer.
Replaced the filter, thermostat replaced 2 years ago.  The heat is or seems to be maintained as my wife isn't complaining :)    Unit is easily accessible.  Any input would be appreciated.


texts: If I replace my main panel, will I need to fit AFCIs?

texts:
This question is about whether "circuits" can be grandfathered if the breaker or panel is changed but the circuit is otherwise not disturbed.

Code is NEC 2017.  My existing main panel has plenty of ampacity but few spaces, and thus, is totally full.  I have several potential paths for an upgrade.

One involves fitting a subpanel and moving 4 circuits (2 double-stuff breakers) there, and adding circuits there.

The other involves outright replacing the main with a very fine 60 space main panel.  No more space problems!

But what happens with AFCI and GFCI requirements? If this were a new house,  nearly all my circuits would require it, but I am grandfathered.  Will the  "new main" scenario void the grandfathering and require that nearly all circuits be upgraded to that protection?   Or can I just move over my old breakers and call it good?


texts:
I put a nail thru a new 240V wire, causing a short and the breaker to jump.

Do I need to replace the complete wire or can I cut out the damaged portion and just install a junction box to isolate the cut?

Fundamentally, what I want to know is does a stove wire need to go uninterrupted straight from oven to breaker box or will it work with a joint in the middle?

I just wanted to save on replacing the complete wire, those are expensive...


texts: Why does my Rheem Performance Plus Gas Water Heater make a clicking sound just until water is running hot?

texts:
Our relatively new Rheem Performance Plus Gas Water Heater makes a clicking noise when you first turn on the hot water. Once the water has reached the correct temperature the clicking stops.
When I stand beside the heater while this is happening sounds like is coming from the pipe above but this may be just due to the way the sound is traveling.  I tried draining in case was due to air block or sediment did not help.
I did read something that said this could be the igniter relighting until water reaches correct temperature, can't seem to find that article again.  My brother in law has exact same heater doesn't happen with his.
Heater is functioning just fine.  I am almost sure it did not happen when we initially installed, it was a few days before I noticed.  Only thing that changed was I added the insulation to the hot water out pipe.
Any assistance greatly appreciated, driving me a little nuts.


texts: How do I determine the earthing arrangement for my outbuilding?

texts:
I have an outbuilding, which I believe is earthed by a TT system (because it's not bonded to the supply earth and has an RCD), but I can't find any earth inspection point.
Is there an easy way for me to confirm that it is, and the the earthing is adequate?


texts:
I have a two-tiered retaining wall at the front of my property. I've been here for about 3 years now, and I've noticed there have been cracks forming in the mortar. I don't want to let it go too long before repairing it in case it becomes more difficult/expensive in the future.

Any recommendations for a DIY repair before I call a mason for a quote?


texts:
I'm putting in a basement bathroom and working through the drain layout.  There is a slab already poured so I want to get it right before busting up the concrete.  It will be inspected, basically following UPC code (Oregon).  This is my first time doing drains and I'm seeking feedback on the plan.

Can you please look at my plan and let me know any problems you see?  Please pick this apart.  Sorry if this is not a specific enough question.  Thanks.

EDIT:

I reworked this a little bit more, and most importantly talked with the inspector.  I learned in my city they now allow Air Admittance Valves (aka AAV, studor valve, or cheater valve) so the long vent pipe isn't necessary.  I just have to have a louvered cover over it on the wall so it could 1) be replaced if it ever fails and 2) draw air into the drain.

Also per the answer below I couldn't have the shower join the drain pipe before the wet vent so that is solved with this second plan.

The particular backwater valve linked in the answer had some specific installation instructions regarding the 2 foot rule.  Thats not in the code anywhere and the inspector I talked to hadn't known of the 2 foot rule, and just said get the valve that doesn't have that in the instructions (since instructions must be followed per the code).  I picked up a backwater valve without any mention of the rule but still allowed 2 feet of a straight shot into the valve anyway in this redesign.

I'll amend this post if I have any problem with the inspection, but so far so good.

NEW PLAN:


texts: How to fix a pedal bin into a kitchen cupboard as a swing-out bin?

texts:
I want to fix our pedal bin into the kitchen cupboard such that when the cupboard is opened, the bin will pivot out (preferably with lid open) - i.e. imitating a commercial product (just as a random example of the mechanism I'm looking for, not an ad!). (Google has let me down completely; I found a few DIY tutorials on pull-out versions of the general idea, but that just seems too involved besides not being quite what we're looking for.)

Our pedal bin is (I'm guessing) a 50L bin. Commercially available solutions generally offer only around 12L bins, which makes me wonder if the swing-out-bin idea is even feasible with a 50L-sized bin? (And we don't want a new bin, the one we have is perfect at its job. It's just a pain to throw things in it where it's hiding in its cupboard.)

If it is feasible, what might be the best (by which I mean simplest, cheapest, not requiring buying fancy new bits...) way of going about it? I'd imagine the bin, especially once full, would be too heavy to be hung on the door of the cupboard. Commercial solutions (like the example above) suggest using a rod fixed to the inside of the cupboard which is to carry the weight of the bin, and rotates as the door pulls out the bin? Bearing in mind we have no power tools apart from a simple drill, what would I use for such a rod and its fixings? As for the lid, would you counsel removing the lid from the pedal bin, and fixing it to the inside of the cupboard (as in above example), to close over the bin when it is rotated into the cupboard, or leave it on the bin as is, and have a pull-string pull the lid up as the bin swings out the cupboard?

The bin measures 63 cm high (with lid closed, 59 cm without lid), and approx. 30 cm in diameter. The cupboard is 36cm wide, 49cm deep, 68.5cm high. (I.e. the bin fits inside it comfortably, but there's little space above it to get it open and stuff things inside, which is what's driving me insane! NB We do need the lid to keep the smells down.)


texts: Caulking bathtub, is there supposed to be a hole?

texts:
I am re-caulking the bath tub, and have a question. After I remove the caulk, is there supposed to be holes between the bathtub and the tile? My house is 9 yrs old, and I have never had the guest bathroom re-caulked. Or am I going too deep with trying to remove the caulk? Please see the images for more info. Thank you for your help!

This is a picture of the hole
Am I digging to deep? This is what I am getting below the caulk


texts: How can I increase the effectiveness of my bathroom vent fan?

texts:
The vent fan in my bathroom isn't very effective.  After taking a shower, the bathroom takes several hours to dry out.

The fan itself works fine: it generates almost enough static suction to hold a magazine against the ceiling.  I think the issue is the airflow path within the bathroom: since the fan is close to the door, dry air goes in the door, out the vent, and never mixes with the humid air in the shower stall.

How can I fix this?  My options for re-arranging the bathroom are limited: I'm in a condo, and any work that involves the ceiling or a structural wall needs to be cleared with the condo association.


texts: "Axle cap": what is it called and how to remove it?

texts:
I've put together a wagon for a child, but I've messed up something. Now I need to remove a plastic cap that has metal bits inside and that goes over the end of the wheel axle. A spare part of this cap looks like this:

  What is this part called and what tool can I use to remove it? As I have a spare part, I don't mind destroying the original cap during removal but if there is a way to remove it without destroying it, I'm interested in knowing as well.

p.s.

I include as well this pic to show where the cap goes in the wagon:


texts: Continuous Load Definition for Feeder Wire

texts:
I understand that for feeder wire from a service entry panel to a subpanel the conductor wires need to be sized according to 125% of the continuous load plus 100% of the non-continuous load. I've also found various definitions (CEC and non-residential NEC) for continuous loads being those on for more than 1 hour in a 2 hour period.

For residential usage, I generally won't have all the continuous loads running simultaneously (ex. lights, an EV charger, HVAC, etc.), so do I still have to sum all the continuous loads or can I size for an average continuous load?

EDIT:
The question also applies to non-continuous loads. Do I need to sum all of them, even if not all will be active simultaneously?


texts:
I currently have a 30Amp CB connected to 10 Gauge wire (Red, Black & White - no bare ground wire).  I am about to connect a window AC unit that is compatible with a 20 Amp plug.  My first question is this: can I replace the 30 Amp receptacle with a 20 Amp receptacle.  Second question, since this system requires a ground would I need to connect the white wire to the ground bus in my panel instead of the Neutral bus?

thanks in advance for your assistance


texts: There are 6 lights on my vanity three on each side, you can unscrew the light bulbs too. Someone put tweezers in the light socket and it blew a fuse, now one side won’t turn on and when I turn on the lights they’re delayed. Can I fix this?


texts:
I live in Seattle, where its usually rainy/cloudy for 8 months of the year. Do solar path LED lights make sense? If yes, could I have a recommendation?

This was suggested to me:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/4-Pack-8x-Brighter-(9.6-Lumen)-Black-Solar-LED-Path-Light/999928748

And this one is highly rated on amazon.

https://goo.gl/XSRgMQ


texts: Why does my circuit breaker keep tripping for a lighting circuit?

texts: I have 4 light poles with 70 wattage bulbs in it. What size breaker do i need to run all four of my light poles. I have a 20 breaker on it, but the breaker keeps on tripping. Please help me.


texts: How can I determine the start up amps on a 3 phase 5 ton A/C unit?

texts: I am trying to properly size a home generator and my concern is the start up amps on a 5 ton AC unit (15 years old R22 Goodwin type). My home power is unique because we have 3 phase (the AC is on 3 phase breaker). I think the line to line voltage is around 240 and the line to ground approx 120 but the stinger leg (whatever you call it) is approx 207V to ground. The generator folk say 118 amps start up but that seem high to me not sure if he is just multiplying the steady state amps or what? Can you tell me how to determine it?


texts: framing feedback for ground level deck 10'x22'

texts:
I am planning to build a ground level deck in bay area in northern California where we have pretty nice weather, and no snow in my living area. I am looking for feedback with following specs

finish height 13"
on existing uneven concrete patio (highest to lowest is around 1.5")
composite deck 1" thickness
16" OC for internal joist
most of the time it should be empty deck and no huge furnitures.

I used decks.designer.com to draw a fairly simple layout.

Questions

is 2x8x10 PT Hem fir ok to span a little less than 10' for internal joists? I looked on decks.com and for 16" O.C, it claims 11'-1" for span.
Rim beams: I am planning to use double 2x8x8 for the rim beam for long sides only (22'), which should give me around around 7' span for double 2x8. Or I need more footing to support shorter span?
Is 4x4 posts enough? Or I need to use 6x6 posts? I know 6x6 will meet all codes, but wonder if I can just use 4x4.


texts: Is using a non-GFCI circuit more risky now than before GFCI entered the electrical code?

texts:
When using a non-GFCI grounded receptacle with a modern device (e.g. manufactured date 21st century) are the risks the same as they were in pre-GFCI era?

I can imagine some situations in which risk is higher, for example if manufacturers have learned to skimp on their devices because of the added safety of GFCI-code (not that this would make sense from a liability standpoint).

If I am content with the level of safety during my childhood, what benefits does a GFCI circuit offer? (Assume neither my local code nor insurance require the circuit to be updated to GFCI.  Neglect risks/burdens to others, such as emergency responders, or such as another user of the circuit.)

EDIT Sept 19 2017: This question is about to be closed for being too broad. Despite that possibility, and despite the cruft below, it has been answered as far as I am concerned. Still, I thought I'd add a follow up to help clarify my question so as to meet forum guidelines, then bug out. While one person noted more devices are including built in GFIs nowadays, no one noted manufactures were skimping based on the uptick in GFCIs.  Devices may be more 'cheaply made', whatever that means, but they are still listed and labeled.  As far as I know, no ordinary devices have manufacturer requirements stipulating plugging into a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI adapter.  Also, as far as I know, there are no regulations that require plugging a device into a GFCI when using the device around water.  I assume that to mean that the powers-that-be are content with the level of safety when using listed and labeled devices in non-GFCI receptacles.


texts: How can I get my floor register to fit in the duct opening?

texts:
My duct opening is right next to the wall. I pulled out this old register to replace the baseboards but now I can’t fit it in the opening anymore.
It seems like the existing duct gets in the way when the “fins” of the register are open, so it does not sit directly on the floor, but 1 inch or so above the floor.
Seeking options.


texts: Can I install a sub-panel with no ground to the main panel?

texts:
I have an old 3-fuse subpanel (screw in fuses) that currently has two 15 amp fuses and one 20 amp fuse. I want to replace it with a new breaker panel. There is no ground, only hot and Neutral. I bought an Eaton 125 amp load center and I am planning on adding 2 new dedicated lines.

How do I make up for not having a ground wire and/or do I need the ground? Can I use the wiring currently supplying the fuse panel already there? My service is in an apartment and the panel is 4 buildings away so running a new line would be most difficult.


texts: Could there be asbestos in the thick brown paper / card backing above my popcorn ceiling?

texts:
I have sent away the popcorn ceiling samples for testing, but didn't tear out any of the brown paperish backing above it. Should I have?

Here is an image:


texts: Can I branch off of 1/4" copper tubing to a standard hose connector?

texts:
I would like to branch off of the tiny 1/4" copper tubing that supplies my refrigerator with water and connect the branch to a hose timer that will auto-water some plants that I have in the kitchen.

This is a picture of the 1/4" copper hose that goes into the fridge:

This is a picture of the timer I want to use to water the plants, it has a standard hose connector.

The refrigerator hose is closest to the part of the kitchen where I need the water. There is some more standard 1/2" copper pipe in other parts of the kitchen, but it would be much more difficult to pipe the water from those places.

Edit:::

Wanted to share what I ended up doing:

Found a 1/4"od compression "T" at Lowes. This allowed me to branch off from the refrigerator line. One thing that I was confused about was that the copper line used for refrigerators is 1/4" od. The "od" means "outer diameter" which is significantly smaller than a 1/4" inner diameter copper pipe.
Found a 1/4" od compression fitting to garden hose adapter at Lowes. I was surprised that they carry these. People use copper refrigerator line to make chillers a lot, so maybe that's why they carry them?

These two adapters pretty much did the trick.


texts: Can I calibrate this thermostat? (Cadet brand, 240V)

texts:
My thermostat operates but seems to be badly calibrated. It will hold temperature, and you can adjust that temperature, but its not the temperature it says on the dial! It goes much higher than the stated number.

For example: to get the room to 70 F, you have to set it to about 55. To keep the nighttime temp. colder around 55, you have to turn it to around 40-45 but not as far as "off". As you turn it there are some audible clicks of either the mechanism or relay as it switches on/off (I think that's what I'm hearing).

It is a 240V line-voltage thermostat that controls an electric baseboard heater.

Under the cover there are two screws (allen key I think) which I imagine might be used to calibrate the mechanism. I asked the manufacturer and they said they don't have any manuals for this 20-30 year old model.

I could just experiment but thought it was better to ask here first rather than risk making it worse... but I'll do that if I can't find any other information.

The top photo was taken when I set it back from 70 (which it overshot) to a nighttime temp.


texts: Fencing backyard on the lower side of a retaining wall

texts:
Trying to fence my backyard, so that the dog has some room to play and burn some energy, as well as joining us outside during gatherings.

My backyard sits on the low side of a retaining wall, which slopes down from approximately 8 ft tall down to 4 ft tall. My original fence outline is shown in blue on the drawing below; pretty much was gonna use the wall as a side of the fence. However, last week I found out that my dog can jump up the portion of the wall that is only 4ft tall.

Putting fence against the whole wall would add about 100 ft of fence, which wouldn't be cheap. Additionally it would cause a nightmare, if my neighbor ever needed to repair the wall. Thought about only fencing the 4 ft tall portion, but think that would look kind of weird...

Any ideas on what to do here, so that I can keep the dog in the yard without sacrificing yard space or adding 100 ft of fencing?

Thanks,


texts: How does one identify a type of ballast?

texts:
In a building how does one identify a type of ballast?

We have lights all over this place, and I was recently recommended that replacing our ballast with LEDs would greatly save on our electricity costs.

I was also recommended that some of the fixtures could be retrofitted to LED, but that if we keep the ballast in place it would still eat up the electricity just as fast even with retrofitted fixtures if they were to be placed within the existing ballast.


texts: Does my Water-Heater stand need to be metal or fire rated drywall?

texts: I have a water heater that is on a plywood stand over 18" high. Does the stand need to be replaced with a metal stand or fire rated drywall?


texts: Install TP Link Wifi Switch and problems along with it

texts:
Similar to Trying to identify the neutral in my switch box for home automation switch. , I have an issue regarding installation of Wifi switch.

The switches I got were WiFi switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/.

Now the problem was, it needs 4 wires to be connected, when I opened the faceplate of the switch, I did not find any Neutral wire.
As suggested by TP-Link they need Neutral wire. http://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-1128.html Has someone encountered such issue?

Pictures attached after I opened current switchboard with all the wires. I assume it may be 4 wires already but not sure and would like your advice/suggestions for the same.

I have connected 3 wires currently and wifi switch has power but when i turn it on, the light blinks for a second and that's it. Doesn't stay on. Also, it keeps showing orange wifi light signal.


texts: Is there a comparative study of self-sustained and ecological housing?

texts:
I am interested in building a self-sustained and ecologically integrated house. The Earthship model is an excellent example of what I am looking at building.
However, before I proceed, I want to be sure it is the best model currently available. Is there an existing comparative study of self-sustained and ecologically integrated house? Ideally, this study should provide an overview of cost, efficiency and modularity.

Is there anything else I omitted in this question I should be considering?


texts:
I have to change our sauna heater. The current heater has wires connected to Earth, N and L3.

I'm confused by the manual of the new heater as there is only 1 X N wire but the manual seems to suggest that there should be 2 (unless I've misread it).

The shop said that the wiring would be the same.

The new heater model is numbered 1 - 7 so it's the top diagram that seems relevant.

[1

Old:

[2


texts:
I'm starting a project to reside my house with hardieplank lap siding.  I have a few corners where the window is very close to the corner.  I plan to use hardie trim around the windows and at the corners.
What is the best way to handle this situation, wide trim pieces or a very short length of hardieplank?
What is the minimum length of hardieplank I can have between 2 pieces of trim (likely nailed to 1/2 inch plywood sheathing with no stud behind it)?
I'm assuming I shouldn't butt up 2 pieces of trim vertically and would go with a very wide trim (about 8 - 10 inches) to run from the window to the corner but I'm concerned with how that will look.

Thanks,
Jeff


texts: These pics are from my ECM motor in my air handler.  I knew the motor was my problem when it failed a phase-resistance test between the windings.  The new motor passed the test and works great.  I opened up the old one and found some burnt residue, but that was it.  I cleaned it up and it passes the test now.  Any idea how this could have happened?  The wire is not melted or cut anywhere.


texts: Can a toilet be properly installed without a flange?

texts:
Someone put a toilet in for me, he used different bolts than came with the toilet because he said the bolts that came with the toilet wouldn't work. He said the floor was rotting but he needed to get under the house and toilet to see what to do about it at a later date.

He also didn't use the wax ring that came with the toilet, instead putting two standard wax rings under toilet for a better seal, he said. He later told me that there was no flange under the old toilet either.

What do I do now?


texts: Are water boilers dangerous when showering?

texts:
Where I'm from (Serbia) everybody says to turn off the water boiler (the container that heats up water and stores it for use in the bathroom and shower) when you take a shower or use the bathtub. They say that if the boiler becomes faulty, the current can go through it and hence the water and kill you.

Now I would understand if we used some home-made boilers that aren't insulated or such, but can this actually happen with a modern boiler?
In my country this belief is some kind of a cultural thing, everyone believes it and says that they know many people who died this way, so every time we take a shower we turn off the boilers...


texts: How can I remove odor of spilled sewage under the sink?

texts: My plumber did a really poor job when he replaced a pipe under my kitchen sink because he spilled the remaining sewage in the pipe all over the place. As a result it smells really bad under the sink (like ammonia and butyric acid), even though I have cleaned all surfaces thoroughly three times with various cleaning agents. The remaining smell comes from the surface of a corrugated PVC pipe and from the slits in the wood joints of the sink rack. Any idea how I can eliminate the remaining odor? Thanks.


texts: Carbolineum safety and removal from wood

texts: someone we hired brush painted carbolineum onto wooden structures in our basement below the house. The (wooden) roof of the basement is the floor of the kitchen. The entire house smells horrendous and, reading up on the product, we have discovered its toxic too. Its been about 48 hours and we are now concerned about our health - is it ok to use carbolineum in such an area? Can we remove it from the wood and if so how? A response would be much appreciated. Thanks.


texts: Is there any AA battery wall-powered placeholder?

texts:
I don't need mobility and I think that rechargeable AA batteries are expensive and too much of a hassle.

Is there any way to wall power my device that is normally powered by 2 AA batteries?

I was thinking of buying a 3V power adapter and connecting its wires to some AA shaped plastic casing with metal connectors in the right places. But it would be better if I could purchase such device already assembled.


texts: Can a gas pipe/tube run under floor joists?

texts:
I have a flexible gas tube connecting to a gas stove which goes under the floor joists in my basement. Can this area be enclosed with drywall? Does it have to be run through the joists like electrical?

EDIT: Just realized this is the type of piping used https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrugated_stainless_steel_tubing


texts: What's a clever way to stop old windows from rattling?

texts: My old wooden windows rattle in their casings (the frame rattles in its tracks--the glass is secure). One suggestion was to use vinyl flooring as shims--that material would be too thick, but I'm wondering if there's something similar that would work. Any suggestions for a durable thin material I can find at a big box construction store? Or another solution altogether?


texts:
My AC unit has the thermostat indoors, a unit in the crawl space and the outdoor unit.  Everything was working until I had a contractor come out and add insulation in my crawl space.  Now the heat/air will not cut on.  I have checked:

  1) Fuses in fuse box
  2) Outdoor breaker box
  3) Thermostat has batteries (working)
  4) Unit is set to cool

What else could it be that is preventing anything from cutting on when I turn on my AC from the thermostat?  (heat doesn't work either, so it's not limited to AC)


texts: When is a shower pan typically inspected? After the PVC membrane is installed and before the mud deck is put on above this, or after the mud deck and drain grate are installed?


texts: How to move/remove the bracing from this desk?

texts:
So, I am the proud new owner of this new desk!  I've never needed a desk before.  Unfortunately, along the long side, I find myself leaning and writing.  A lot.  The brace at the bottom really gets in  the way of my legs, sadly.

I have a lot of homework.

So, does anyone know a good way to say, move the brace up on the desk so my feet are free?  I'll buy a sheet of hard clear plastic and epoxy it on there if I have to.  And yes, I understand the equation t=r X F... I know why it has to be braced.

It would nice if I could avoid any permanent damage to the desk!


texts: Identifying plaster type and how to best remove wallpaper and prepare for painting?

texts:
We are renovating our new house at the moment in the UK which is circa 120 years old. One room has wallpaper on it which we want to remove and then prep and paint the wall.
Upon peeling some wallpaper away (which has binded rather firmly we notice a fairly course feeling plaster behind it.
What type of plaster is this, how can we best remove the wallpaper and how do we prep it for a smooth finish to paint?

Thanks


texts: Routing electrical wire when existing hole is too tight

texts:
Check out the wires running

I tried to add an extra wire so my powder room light and fan would be on separate switches but even after removing the staples so the existing wires could move about a bit, I just can't fit an extra wire.

Removing it all and expanding the hole doesn't seem efficient. I don't have access to where they run to. (Not without removing cables / having to re-run them)

Instead, can I drill a new hole parallel to it like this? It' the only thing I can think to do:


texts: Why aren't all houses equipped with fire sprinklers?

texts:
Fire sprinklers are common in office buildings but not so common in people's houses. How come?

I'm thinking of adding such a system to my house but... I don't know... maybe there is a reason for why that is? Might not be a good idea? Too expensive? What?

Why aren't houses equipped with fire sprinklers?


texts: Is the Zinsser BIN Shellac primer sandable?

texts: We are preparing to prime kitchen cabinets that had past nicotine stains, and want to completely block any future bleed-through of those stains.  We hesitate using the Shellac because we aren't sure it can be sanded in the event we get a drip or debris on the surface.  Does anyone know from experience if it can be sanded?


texts: Ideal split for Kitchen and Living room on across five circuits

texts:
So I've started renovating my 18' x 13' kitchen/dining area, and thanks to an old sagging ceiling that's getting ripped out, I have the opportunity to redo electric in not only that room but the adjacent living room.  There are a total of five 20a circuits serving these two rooms currently broken down as follows:

Outlets in kitchen area (including stove), all
outlets in living room + exterior outlet in driveway
Overhead lights in kitchen, dining area, living room, + porch light
Refrigerator + outlets in dining area
Dishwasher by itself
Garbage disposal by itself

All appliances including garbage disposal were purchased in 2015 and are energy star rated.  The living room has a new 55" HDTV, older sony stereo, and quite a bit of computer gear.  All lights fixtures are LEDs and never pull more than 1a.

Seems like it would make a lot of sense to have the living room outlets on their own circuits, but not sure which one I should steal to do this.

Is there a code reason that overhead lights must be on their own circuit?
Does it make sense to have the GD and DW on their own circuits?
What about the exterior porch light and driveway outlet?

Wiring is 12 awg.  Located in California.  My city just follows state building codes.


texts: How can I avoid sap seep in my woodworking projects?

texts:
I recently started getting into more DIY projects around the house and decided to make a fairly straight forward desk for my computers and monitors.  This is a 3x6' desk with black metal pipes for legs.

Being my first hands on project like this, I've made plenty of mistakes and gleaned some valuable lessons from the process.  However, I've noticed that the wood seems to sweat a sticky substance.  I can only assume it's some sort of sap or pitch.

The desk is made of Douglas Fir planks I picked up at Home Depot.  I used the desk before doing more with it and I noticed this early on but thought that sanding it down, staining, and sealing it would resolve the problem.  So far, it hasn't.

Is this normal for the type of wood I picked?
Can I prevent the sweating without scraping the entire top of the desk?  If so, how?
What's a better alternative to Douglas Fur for a project like this?

Additional information:

I am using AFM SafeCoat, Naturals Clear Penetrating Oil as my sealer.  I wanted something that was food grade and this seemed like a good choice.


texts: I have 4 outlets that are dead in my 2nd floor bedroom. I checked the wiring and the wiring is dead no juice. The circuit breaker is not tripped. What would cause the wiring to die?


texts: I recently installed a nest thermostat for our AC system. Unfortunately I was short sighted and just assumed all the wires were the color I needed. Since installing the thermostat our system won’t cool. The fan runs and the unit outside runs but no cold air. The pictures show the wiring on out unit in the attic and how it’s wired into the nest. I’m confused why one wire says heat even thought this is AC only. Did I mess up the wiring or is it something else (low on Freon/bad compressor)? Thanks for your help!


texts: How do I remove a brass pipe that has been jammed into a larger iron pipe?

texts:
I was replacing the sink this afternoon when I noticed that the p-trap would not reach the drain pipe.  No biggie, right?  I'll just buy some extensions from the local big box and be on my way.

I attempt to take off the drain pipe so I can fit an extension on and what I can see appears to be someone who took a 1.25" pipe, shoved it into the 1.5" hole (with the threads "holding it in") and then tightening everything up.

Now, I'm trying to unscrew this mess (literally) and I can't get the pipe out of the 1.5" drain.  I'm wondering if I should try to heat up the system with an acetylene torch to try to make everything a bit more pliable or if I've got no other choice than to get a plumber to come and rerun the drain in the back of the wall.

The input of this community would be most appreciated.

Here are some photos:


texts: We are noticing some puffed up lines on the wall not sure what it is. I see these lines in 2 places staircase and dining hall (high ceiling) going all the way to adjacent wall not visible in dining hall pic . I attached images. Do you know what they are  and what causes them ?


texts: 40LB TV Mounted on Drywall using 6 Plastic Anchors. WILL THIS FALL?

texts:
The 55' tv is 38.8 lbs and I used 6 drywall anchors rated for 80lbs. I hung it 24 hours ago at a friends house, and I've been nervous since reading contradictory information online. Having only done wood studs in the past, here I encounted metal studs and didn't have the tools to get into them. IS this an ok solution?

This website ( https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-hang-anything-on-anything ) Makes me feel that it should be ok, but many ppl on reddit from the plamsa tv days have horror stories.


texts:
Apologies if this is a duplicate.

I'm attempting to floor my loft space.  It currently has 47mm x 75mm ceiling joists, not enough for a floor.  I am going to add something like 47mm x 200mm along side each existing ceiling joist, resting on the existing brickwork.

I am not going to be sistering these together, the existing joists are old and already bowed.  I may perhaps bracket them together in the centre span to avoid any more sag on the old joists.  The old joists used to have vertical planks nailed to the rafters above to achieve this, but they have since degraded.

The problem I have is this: I have flush eaves, so the vertical space over the outer brick skin (at the eaves) is limited and certainly not enough to accommodate an 8 inch square joist end.  Are there any specialist joist extension plates (steel) I can use to rest on the brickwork, or is it safe to cut a triangle off the end of the joist without affecting the shearing resistance?

Extremely crude drawing:

Update: I have followed this question on here:

How do I fit a joist in this small space?


texts: Upgrading from a 3 wire rotary thermostat to a Electronic Digital

texts:
This is my first post so please be gentle. I currently have a Honeywell rotary thermostat (240V) 3 Wires plus earth.

Live in
Neutral (for the anticipator I believe)
Switched live out

I appreciate that I could swap this out and replace it with something like the SALUS RT500 2 wire system and just terminate/isolate the Neutral, But........
I was wondering if I could use something like this (Photo)

In this case could I use my Live and Neutral feed (originally terminals 1 and 2 on the old unit) and connect the switched live to L1 to supply the boiler
So that the new set up would be

Live (1) Now to Terminal 4
Neutral (2) Now to Terminal 3
Switched Live (3) now to Terminal 1

The new thermostat has an internal Temp sensor with the option of an additional external.

Please feel free to offer any advice of shoot me down in proverbial flames.
Thanks in advance
Rod


texts: How do I remove the cartridge from my faucet?

texts: Nut doesn’t seem to want to turn. I have sprayed WD-40 overnight. Should it? Trying to stop drip.


texts: What spacing difference is acceptable with a contracted tile job?

texts:
What is a reasonable difference in gaps between tiles? We just had our bathroom floor done by Lowe’s (first mistake), and I’m not happy with the outcome, AT ALL. Is this just me being picky, or should I call and complain?

I’m not sure what they can do about it at this point, other than redo the entire thing. Also, is it normal to have used a different piece of tile around the vent?

Here are more photos; some images included below:


texts: How to identify the wall type and studs for drilling

texts:
I need to anchor an Ikea bookcase and a drawer to the wall, but despite days of Internet research I am not able to identify where I can drill a hole in my wall. I have tried knocking on the wall to listen to the ‘depth’ of the sound to distinguish masonry from drywall. I think the wall onto which I am planning anchor the furniture is a drywall based on the hollow sound upon knocking. Now I am trying to identify the studs within the wall, but the sound method is not helping as every knock sounds the same. I bought a stud finder to no avail as it is not giving me reproducible results and it’s not identify studs in a periodic pattern which makes me think that there is something wrong with it (or the way I use it). I found the hole in the picture. I am wondering if it is possible to identify the wall type from the picture of this hole (whether it is masonry or drywall).
I’d be very grateful if someone can guide me on how to identify where I can drill a hole in the wall to attach somewhat heavy furniture like a wardrobe or a bookcase.
Thanks in advance!


texts: Best way to bubble-wrap a greenhouse (adhesive?)

texts:
I'd like to bubble-wrap my greenhouse.
What's the best kind of adhesive that meets these requirements?
(1) clear
(2) UV-resistant
(3) water-resistant
(4) cold and heat -resistant (all-weather)
(5) easy to remove and won't leave permanent marks, should I decided to remove it (this one is a bonus though)


texts: Is there a globally recommended "hardness" setting for a water softener?

texts:
On a Morton System Saver, there's a setting labelled hardness, but no clear indication as to what setting is "recommended" -- or even whether this setting is the desired "output" or "input" hardness (hardness to compensate for). The instructions simply instruct the user to "adjust the hardness setting" as necessary.

My UX intuition would suggest that this is the desired "output hardness." My CS intuition suggests that this is a compensation level. And neither intuition has a clue what "normal" would be.

Is there a "normal" value I can set to get water that leaves minimal deposits but still lets you rinse the soap off your hands easily? Or, do I need to get the water tested and set the hardness according to the test results?


texts: Electrical Outlet not working - Open Neutral

texts:
There are two outlets in our downstairs bathroom, one on each side of the sink. The one on the right side hasn't worked since we moved in. So, I decided to buy a tester and check it out. It said "Open Neutral", which should be an easy fix.

So I opened it up and the white wire was connected just fine. So I opened up the outlet on the left of the sink and it only has one set of wires going into it... Ugh.. So another dead end. Both outlets have only one set (2 wires and the ground) going into them and they are all connected tight.

So I cannot find the open neutral. Please help me out here. What else do I check next? I even replaced the receptacle and that didn't fix it either. :'(


texts: How can I figure out where the toilet overflow pipe goes?

texts:
In the toilet tank I know that the overflow pipe is there for when the toilet tank is full. However my toilets overflow pipe in the tank doesn't go back into the toilet it goes to a pipe which runs along the waste pipe but what is that pipe attached to? where does it go. We have a major leak that no one can find and I am worried that pipe is the issue when it goes into the wall that it then isn't attached to anything.
We know none of out live pipes are the issue and not our drains and waste pipe as water is clean.


texts:
Can I install a 225 amp main lug load center "downstream" from my 100 amp external cutoff?  I run all gas appliances, I'm looking into gas air conditioning as well...  I only want the big panel for the sake of not having a crowded box, and more available circuits than currently allowed in my old 20 space panel.

Elroy


texts: Free standing shed with single plane roof

texts:
My shed/summerhouse build will be around 3m by 4m give or take. if I build it with a single plane roof, or shed roof. Will this put considerable load on the lower wall holding up the roof. The shed will have treated wood base on concrete slabs. Will the structure hold up the roof and hold it all together? it will be 2.5m high, I'm just worried as it won't be dug into the ground so then I assume the structure will need to be self supporting. And I don't know how to be sure that it is.

Do i need to do anything to make it more solid, or will it be fine?


texts: Can i use 1 ground wire to ground 2 outlets?

texts: (Before I start, I am not worried about the NEC.) I have 2 outlets in my room. 1 of them has a ground wire that is run along the baseboard through the wall and down the side of my house to the basement connected to a copper pipe. I want to connect the other outlets ground to the same wire, Can i do that? Should i run my ground wire back to the Breaker panel and make it complete or is a copper pipe good enough?


texts:
We're getting ready to build a detached garage/ADU about 100' from our main house, and have a quick question about getting power out to the building.

We currently have a 320amp service to the main house, with two 200amp panels (Siemens model S4080B1200A).  Initially I wanted to use a 150amp plug on breaker and run 2/0 out to the garage, however looking at the sticker on the panel it looks like the max breaker size I can use is 100 amps.

However looking at the approved accessories for the panel, it lists Siemens ECLK2125 and ECLK2225 for subfeed lugs.

So looking at NEC 240.21 if I'm reading it correctly, I can use the sub feed lug kit to tap off my main panel, run power out the garage, and use a sub panel with a main breaker?

If i do it this way, do I need to size the wire for the 320 amp service coming to the house, or can I still use the wire sized for 150 amp?

My other option would be to use say two 75 amp circuits and two subpanels out in the garage/ADU.  Id rather not do that as it will double up my costs for wire/conduit and panels but if using the sub feed lugs isn't an option, it seems like that may be my only bet.

Thanks!


texts: What is the name of the metal base plate wher you can install a vise (or any other tool)?

texts:
How is this 'base plate' called?
I have a new workbench, and I want to install my main tool on the corner.
I want to be able to use different tool on this corner (a vise, table grinder, a drill press...) so a base plate like this one seem a simple and practical idea.
But I cant find them.
Do this kind of metal plate have a name?
The image is taken from this video: WHAT VISE IS THE STRONGEST


texts: I'm hanging a mirror on the wall (drywall) that has rigid hangers on the back.  I'm using a heavy duty wall anchor and measured but when I drilled, the screw is about an 1/8 of an inch off and the mirror bracket will not slip on to the screwhead.  Can I tap the screw/anchor over a small amount so that it fits or do I have to repair the wall and start all over again?  The mirror isn't that heavy and weighs less than 10 lbs. (maybe around 7 lbs).  The studs don't line up with the wall correctly for centering the mirrors aesthetically, so screwing into the studs wasn't an option.


texts: What is the minimum width I can use for an under-sink cabinet when using a 30" wide cast iron sink?


texts: How can I get the fireplace smoke smell out of my house?

texts:
I recently got a new apartment with a wood burning fireplace. One of the first nights I had a fire and was sure to open the damper. After the fire was over, I went to bed but left the damper open. When I woke up I closed the damper. I went away for a few days and when I got back, my apartment smelt like smoke.

I opened the damper back up, cleaned the fireplace, cleaned the hardwood floors, cleaned ledges/countertops, and have a large air purifier running as well as ceiling fans. This has helped get rid of the smell, but it is still lingering in a few places. The flooring near the fireplace is hardwood. The carpeted flooring is far away and doesn't seem to contain the smell at all, so I didn't clean it. The ceilings are also very high. I can't seem to get rid of all of the smell.

How can I completely eliminate this smell?


texts: Light switch only has live wire is this right?

texts: Light switch for outdoor light only have brown wire contented the blue wire is inside the wall with blue tax covering the end,it only turns on it doesn't turn off!


texts: Can mould be leaking through pipes cracks/holes?

texts:
I know that mold is definately leaking through some of the deep holes in my flat.  You can see brick in the holes as well as space for air to travel.

Can pipes with cracks and holes behind them also leak contaminated air?  I'm not sure what exactly surrounds the inner wall where pipes are passing but if its the same as deep holes then I guess it can.

When filling can you go right up to the pipe and make it airtight?  in some builds I notice there is a small seemingly deliberate gap but if there were a leak above that would not be visible.

Thanks.


texts: Can't get sofit sections to fully rejoin/overlap - okay?

texts:
My security camera is mounted under my garage's overhang (the Ethernet run originally installed by a Tech). After i installed my security camera and moved the wires around, I was having trouble getting the two pieces of soffit where the wire was initially coming through to overlap and click together. I stuck all the wires on the inside and know only a microphone and one Ethernet wire go out to the camera.
There is no real appreciable gap, but I figure these things are supposed to overlap for a reason. Is it okay as is, or do I need to get up there and keep fighting and rearranging to ensure they actually click fully together? see photos:


texts: How can I install a thermostatic shower head in a finished bathroom?

texts: In our last house, we had Thermostatic Shower Valves installed when the bathrooms were being remodeled.  Now in our new house, I would like to install one on our main shower but I don't want to tear into the walls.  Is there any way to install a valve that would control the temp at the shower head.


texts:
It looks like there has been some bad wiring done in the old house we just bought. Yesterday, I was installing a low-wattage LED nightlight in a 3-gang box on a GFCI circuit, when the whole circuit lost power. I cannot find a reason for the loss of power. I rewired the way it was when I started, but that did not fix the problem.
This circuit has a GFCI breaker. There also are (or were) three GFCI outlets on its circuit, two of which have no load. The one with a load is outside and I believe protects an additional outside outlet. I read that the circuit breaker is all that is needed and that additional GFCI outlets are not only not necessary but can be a problem, especially as they age. So, I am replacing the GFCI outlets with standard outlets. Doing so, however, has not helped.
I suspect that the GFCI breaker is faulty. When I switch it on, there is no power. When I test for power between its hot connection and neutral, there is no power. When I press the test button, nothing happens.
I can replace a breaker (I think) but I am not sure if that is what should be done.


texts: Kitchen setup for US appliances in Europe/India

texts:
I am relocating to India from US and taking all the appliances along. I understand that a lot of appliances can go toast due to voltage support as India/Europe has 230v range and US appliances work at 110-120v range. For tvs i can get a separate adapter, but how will it work for kitchen where i would need multiple appliances to be plugged in.
Basically, is there a smarter way to support multiple power points at 110v range which might be located at different locations.


texts: Feedback for cheap, compact electric heating faucets

texts:
As an alternative to traditional tankless heaters, aliexpress sells a variety of cheap taps incorporating a heater, for example:

220V 3000W Instant Electric Faucet Tap Hot Water Heater

This looks too good to be true, looking at the compactness and at the price.
Hence I was wondering if anybody has any kind of opnion/feedback about such products, for example with respect to safety, durability, doing what they promise, or any aspect.

Thank you!


texts: replace remote control for ceiling fan with light to wall switches

texts:
How do I use existing double pole wall switch for ceiling fan with light kit when replacing with Casa Viejo Revue that only has remote control? I don't want the remote control feature but the fan does not have manual speed control hanging chain like the current one. Can I NOT install the provided receiver (and remote control) and instead use an after market wall mounted fan speed controller/on-off and a separate on-off light switch?

Currently the wall double pole plastic switch box has a 12-2 from the wall plugs and a 12-3 out to ceiling fan/light box in the ceiling. The white commons (12-2 & 12-3) are spliced together and wire nutted in the box. The black 12-2 is spliced and wire nutted in the box with two black wires; one leading from the splice to the fan switch and the other to the light switch. The fan switch also has the 12-3 black attached to it. The light switch has the red 12-3 attached to it. The 12-2 green ground is attached to the fan switch and the 12-3 green ground is attached to the light switch.


texts: Is there a sure way to know a PVC joint is glued right?

texts:
I made some PVC joints that will be buried, since they won't be easily accessible I would like to make sure they are perfect.

When I glued them I used primer and glue, but I had to "twist" the pipe a bit to fit the elbow (it was an "almost" 45° bend). Now, some 5 days later, it is holding well under full pressure and no water seems to be leaking anywhere, but because of the force fit on the elbow I'm still worried.

I think that if it is still holding so far it should hold for good, is it true?


texts: What is permissible for a breaker box cover?

texts:
We're doing some remodeling in our kitchen and unfortunately the breaker box is right in the middle of a wall we are going to cover with tile.

My current thought is to replace the existing metal cover (which has a door) with a flat steel panel and then put the tiles on a removable board over the panel.

Thoughts?


texts:
Maybe because i come from Eastern Europe, where we have separate rooms for kitchens but I really don't understand why open kitchens are so popular? Are they practical in any sense?

My assumptions are that the furniture from the living room will be affected by all the smoke, vapors and smells from the kitchen.

Can you tell me why I don't understand the open kitchen concept and why is it practical?

Thank you so much.


texts:
The wife is bent on getting an Electric heater for the living room.  We opted not to purchase the gas fireplace when we built our home (through Ryan).  She claims these things can cost up to $1000.

She has a guy on craigslist thats trying to get rid of his for < $200.  Says he bought it preparing to install it and they moved to a new home w/ a fireplace before he could.

Will this improve the value of my home?


texts: Neutral and ground connected to one bus bar in subpanel; should I change?

texts:
At my house, there is a subpanel that serves a pool area, served by one 30 amp 240v circuit. The panel, which I think was installed about 30 years ago, has just one bus bar that the neutrals and grounds are both connected to. The service neutral and ground wires are connected to the bus bar at opposite ends. This gives the appearance that the neutral current is run through both the neutral and ground wires back to the main panel, which I know is the wrong way to install a subpanel. Now, I've had this house for more than ten years and never had any problems with this, but I'm wondering, should I change this, or am I just misunderstanding the layout of the panel? This is the only breaker box I ever recall seeing with just one bus bar, and I'm wondering if there is something to it that I am missing. If not, I'm assuming the thing to do would be to purchase a new bus bar, install it in the panel, and run all the grounds  (or neutrals) to it, and use it to separate the ground and neutral currents, right?

EDIT: Here are photos of the box. Can anyone identify the make and model of the box? Note that some of the circuits have been disconnected from the breakers in the interior shot of the box due to the fact that I am doing some work. (There were some other things that were not installed properly that I am in the process of fixing). The main ground is the green wire on the far left.


texts: How should I re-caulk my butcher block counter top?

texts:
Last year I had my kitchen re-done. Everything thus far has held up well with the exception of the caulk between the counter top (butcher-block) and the back splash (tile).

What would be the best way to remove the existing caulk? In addition is there a specific caulk I should use for this scenario? The contractor did a thin line however that separated within weeks. When I attempted to put a larger bead in the crack it was spread more then I desired onto the counter top.


texts: What should I pack behind a cast iron fireplace?

texts: I have a cast iron open fireplace which is (loosely) attached to the chimney breast in my living room by the mantle piece.  There is a small but significant gap behind it where the bricks have been hacked out so it will fit.  What should I fill this gap with?  Currently any soot which forms can fall down behind the fireplace.


texts: How do I fix the low water flow of my kitchen sink?

texts:
Here's what I know. Our kitchen sink used to work fine, then one day the water flow was suddenly really low, like just slightly better than a trickle. We called our landlord about it, and so he came by one day while I was at work and fixed it. My wife says he basically went under the sink, did something, and the problem was resolved in a matter of minutes.

Unfortunately the problem has come back. Knowing that it's supposedly very easy to fix, I'm trying to figure out how to do it myself; but I've looked under the sink and the only thing I can really imagine he did was something involving these knobs:

However, for the life of me I can't seem to turn either knob in either direction. I've tried loosening the screws, but those just seem to hold the knobs on (as I'd expect, but you can never be too sure).

Obviously I don't know much anything about how sinks work, or else I wouldn't be posting here. I'm hoping somebody knows exactly what's wrong and can tell me what obvious thing I'm missing.

If it's just that the knobs need to be turned... any idea why they'd be basically impossible to turn? Does something else need to be adjusted first?


texts: Do I need to sand my new fence before staining?

texts:
We are replacing our current fence with a cedar fence, and I wanted to know if I should sand the fence before staining it. The wood is from a cedar company and it is really rough. It's also easy to get a splinter if anyone runs their fingers/hands along the wood.

If it is optional, then what are the advantages/disadvantages?

Will the stain look nicer if the fence is sanded down a little bit?


texts: Hooking up additional outlets & lights to a central vac circuit?

texts:
My unfinished basement has a central vac on its own 20A circuit.  The central vac is plugged into a 15A duplex outlet (not hardwired).  I want to finish my basement and build a closet around the vac and the water heater.

Can I run additional outlets and lights off this circuit (all in the closet), or is that against the US NEC?  I understand certain "fixed" appliances like ovens and dishwashers are required to have dedicated circuits, but this has a plug so I'm hoping it doesn't fall into that category.

Thanks.


texts: Outside A/C Unit Keeps Running 30+ Minutes After Inside Unit Stops

texts:
I installed a new programmable thermostat back in December and it has been wonderful. It replaced a (probably) 50+ year old dial thermostat.

To my question - now that it is really hot outside (85+ degrees F), I have noticed that after my inside A/C unit has stopped, and the house is at the proper temperature, that my outside unit will continue to run. Sometimes it will run for 30 minutes, sometimes all the way until the inside unit needs to run again, and others it will shut off when the inside unit does. It's very inconsistent.

Any ideas if something may be wrong, or could it just be the newer thermostat cycles the unit differently than my old one? I never had this problem in the summer with the old one.

EDIT - Just to get this all in the question:

A/C Condenser - Trane XE 1000 - http://tranexe1000.blogspot.com/2014/11/trane-xe-1000-specifications-reviews.html

Air Handler/Furnace - Trane XE 78

Thermostat - Honeywell RTH2510 - http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH2510B1000-7-Day-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B003XCAMR8

EDIT 2 - Wiring at the thermostat


texts: Would it be OK to install a water pressure regulator where the supply line enters my home?

texts:
Hi I have high water pressure 120 psi and no regulator vavle installed at my home.  My home is on a slab with a very small water meter box in the front yard.  The box is too small to accommodate the regulator underground on the downstream side of the meter.

Would it be OK to install the regulator inside my home where the supply line enters?  My line enters the garage and runs laterally through the walls throughout the house.  I want to cut an access panel in the drywall in the garage and install the regulator in the wall cavity between the 2x4 studs.  Any thoughts or ideas as greatly appreciated.  Thanks.


texts: I'm looking at the electrical code and it states "Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads." Could someone explain what line-to-neutral loads are?


texts: Storing an Old Sump or Ejector Pump for Later Use

texts:
I recently replaced my functioning, but of unknown age, ejector pump. After washing it, I'd now like to store it so that it could be pulled out in case of an emergency. I'm considering putting it in a bucket of water (along with a few ounces of bleach, to hopefully keep the water from getting nasty over time) and closing it with a suitable lid.  This way, everything stays wet and there's less chance of it corroding while in storage.  There are no guarantees, of course, it will work if I ever pull it back out - but a potential emergency pump is better than no possible emergency pump.
My question is: has anyone else stored their old pump "wet"?  If so, any suggestions /tips? Any alternative approaches? I'm slightly concerned about adding bleach (which could be somehow reactive), but can't think of a better additive to keep the water from fouling.


texts: Can I use a single 20A circuit for two bathrooms?

texts: Can I put two bathrooms on one 20amp breaker for the respective outlets or do I need a separate 20amp circuit for each bathroom? I am running out of panel space in my subpanel otherwise I would just run a home run from the subpanel to the bathroom no big deal. I am located in Connecticut USA.


texts: warm water only when we replaced the hot water heater with a tankless heater

texts:
We replaced the hot water heater with a tankless version. We now only get warm water from the faucets and showers even though the temperature is set at 140 0F on the heater and the outlet pipe from the heater is very hot.  Also when the cold water supply to the heater is turned off, we still get cold water flowing when we turn the hot water faucet on. So two questions
1. Why cant we get hot water from the faucets and showers
2. Something is causing cold water to be introduced on the hot water line


texts: Wiring combo outlet & switch but box w/ 3 wires

texts: So I have a light outlet I want to turn into a combo outlet and switch.  I purchased the combo outlet / switch.  However I open and pulled the wires out of the wall box and it has 3 white wires tied together (not going to old switch).  And 3 black wires, 2 tied together and pigtailed to one pole on the switch the the 3rd going to the other pole on the old switch.  and of course a ground.  Not sure how to wire new switch / outlet combo.  I have it wired currently like the old switch (just using black wires) and the switch works but of course the outlet does not.  Not sure which or what white wires & black wires to put on what poles for the outlet portion of this to work.  I did break off the tab on the new combo switch as I was trying to wire it but was unable to get the correct white / black wire / pole combo correct.  Using a typical combo switch like this: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/switches-outlets-and-plugs/outlets/3809704?store=16805&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9P__BRC0ARIsAEZ6irgtfuos8sJNLklaPK4keXu70xnKPSZSjT9nxrENGfd3ZL1LGgCns48aAvdUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


texts: I am working on a bathroom renovation.  As part of it I am trying to determine if a wall is load bearing. Wall in question runs parallel to floor and ceiling joists.  A small window of drywall is removed at floor level.  bottom plate of wall is 2x4 and so are studs.  In the attic I moved insulation aside and found the top plate...which is a 2x6.  Anyway the top plate runs past the wall and ends over the hallway bordering the bathroom.  So, is does a top and bottom plate od different sizes make sense?


texts:
I was hoping to get some guidance.  I recently purchased a home.  During the inspection process, the inspectors put in their report that there was a hairline horizontal crack in the foundation.  It was mentioned in their report, however, they told me verbally it was nothing to worry about(and I trusted them :( ), as there was no signs of shoving or spreading - so the house passed inspection.  On the inside, you are not able to stick a dime in the crack, and there are no signs of water seeping in.  However, upon closing, I was working around the house, and noticed that the crack is roughly the same height above the floor, and probably goes all the way around the 3 sides of the foundation(4th side is the walk out), the basement is partially finished, so I am not able to see the entire wall to know for 100% sure.  On one side, the slope of the ground shows that the crack is visible from the outside.  I took a level to the wall, and it SEEMED level, however I am not a contractor.  The house was built in 1956, and has a poured basement(as far as I can tell).  I am having an SE come look today, however I am curious if any of you have experienced this?  I am worried I may have ruined my life financially by buying this house.

Any info will be appreciated.  Thanks!

UPDATE: The SE came today, and didn't seem concerned, as the walls showed no signs of shoving, water, and were level.  However, I have attached photos. The third photo shows epoxied cracks, and a smaller crack above.  From what I understand, this epoxy would have been done 5+ years ago, and has not shown any movement judging by the epoxy. The smaller crack above does not travel any further than that photo, and I plan to epoxy that. The basement is partially finished, so I am not able to see all the way around.  If I absolutely had to, I would unfinish the parts needed to make any fixes...I am considering attaching glass to the wall over the crack.  That way, If the glass cracks, I know the wall is showing movement. We have got consistent heavy rain in my area recently, and no sign of water seeping through.


texts: Can I put a UK 3 pin plug or use an adapter on a dishwasher I brought in South Africa?

texts: Can I put a UK 3 pin plug on a dishwasher I brought over from South Africa, or use an adapter?