texts: Troubleshooting a String of LED Recessed Lighting Fixtures

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I have 5 LED-based recessed lights on a 3-way switch that are problematic. When I activate the circuit, I rarely get all 5 lights switching on. If I turn them off and back on again, they all work.

They don't come on or go off, whichever ones switch on, remain on. There is also no pattern to which lights come on -- anything from 1 to 5 can come on, and not necessarily in the wired sequence. I have 20+ fixtures and they're all fine, including some installed on another 3-way.

Any tips on where the fault is, or troubleshooting, or do I simply need to replace all the cabling?


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We removed a load bearing wall and installed a header. For this we opened up two walls, Pictures are below. My drywall guys says, patching these two area will standout. He is suggesting that he will plaster the whole wall and put the sand texture on top of it to make the whole wall look even.

Should I do the whole wall or should just patch it?

Patch in beige wall is about 45" in height and 7" wide and red wall is 15" wide and 5' in height.

Thank you.


texts: What kind of crimping tool do I need for these bullet-style cable connectors?

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I need to connect pairs of wires within a narrow space (in one of the dimensions). I've been thinking of getting this kind of connector pairs:

but I know they need crimping. The only crimping I've ever done is RJ-45 connectors, from which I know that not all crimpers are alike. I'm finding dozens of crimping tools, many with replaceable "jaws"; example below. So, my question is: What kind of crimping tool, or tool+jaw combination, should I get for these connectors?
Notes:

The wires on one side are solid; on the other side they're stranded.
The connectors' stated diameter is 4mm.


texts: LEDs in a multi-bulb fixture only dim when installed alongside a single 60W incandescent bulb

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I have a 'Sputnik'-style ceiling light fixture that accepts about 12 bulbs. I installed 12 LED bulbs into the fixture. However, the fixture was just too bright with 12 LEDs, so I installed a dimmer switch later that evening. The LED bulbs are supposed to be dimmable and the Amazon reviews for the LEDs indicated that people were having success with Lutron and Leviton dimmers. I bought a Leviton Decora smart dimmer.

After installing the dimmer, I found that that the LED bulbs would not dim, they would only turn on or off. I verified that the Leviton app had the bulb type set to 'LED'. To troubleshoot, I decided to remove one of the LED bulbs and replace it with a 60W incandescent bulb. I knew that the incandescent bulb would be capable of dimming.

To my surprise, not only did the incandescent bulb dim, but the other LEDs started dimming as well. If I remove the incandescent, then the LEDs stop dimming. If I install a 20W incandescent, then the LEDs do not dim. It's only when I install the 60W incandescent that all of the LEDs start dimming properly.

How is it possible that the LEDs only dim when a single 60W incandescent bulb is installed in the same fixture?

Edit: these are the LED bulbs (6W each) and this is the Leviton Decora dimmer switch (300W max for LEDs, 600W max for incandescent.


texts: How to reach outside light high above sloped cellar door?

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I'm looking for suggestions on how to reach this outside light.
I have a pole to change the bulb but I need to get up there to repair the socket.

I have a 14 foot stepladder.  To use it over the Bilco door I'd have to build a platform about 3 feet high for two of the legs.  Is there a practical and safe way to do that?   By practical, I mean, not crazy expensive.  3 feet high would require a wide and strong base.
I could rent a 20 foot extension ladder (I don't own one) and place it on the stairs beneath the door, leaning on the wall to the left but then I'd be facing the wrong way while I'm on the ladder.
I could build a leveler for the rented ladder using a concrete block, perhaps with some shims underneath, placed on the staircase with the doors open.  Then I could lean the ladder on the right hand wall and would be facing the right way.  Is there a safe way to do this?  Build my own  ladder leveler for use with a rented ladder?   What length ladder should I rent?   It would be resting on a stair that is about 16 feet below the light.
I don't think the windows are a good option.  The one on the left is fixed, and over 100 years old. I'm not touching it.  The one on the right can open but 1) it's boarded up from the inside and behind some shelving and 2) It's about 2 feet above the light.  I'd have to remove the shelving, the boarding, and be hanging out the window from my waist.  I don't think so.
Any better ideas?


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I have started some work with a contractor to replace a roof on a terrace.
They have removed the existing roof, and have left apparent some metallic bars placed on top of pillars. It feels sturdy in the sense that a 70 kg man can pull himself by the arms grabbing the metal bar, and it does not break (it bends ever so slightly).
For various reasons, I have started to lose confidence in the contractor. I worry about his competence. I am not sure I should cut the project now (which would be painful financially and would create conflict).
So I feel I need to educate myself on how to make a tile roof, to make sure I can watch what he does.
Three questions in total, but I am grateful for any advice, any partial answer:

How can I make sure that the metallic bars will indeed support the weight of the tiles, plus the weight of the drywall he will put below?

What minimum slope do the metal bars need to have?

What other advice do you have for me, to watch out for in that situation?

Photo of the tiles he bought is below.


texts: Hot and cold water stopped flowing in shower at same time

texts: I heard a couple of kind of thuds sounds and then a few seconds later, all water flow stopped.  This lasted for several seconds (maybe a minute) and the all flow came back.  Water temp unchanged from what it was before flow stopped


texts: Turning on GFCI breaker on subpanel trips main breaker

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I have a subpanel feeding off a 50 amp breaker. The subpanel contains a GFCI 50 amp breaker which is connected to a new 32amp spa heater. When I flip the GFCI breaker on for the heater, it immediately trips the main 50. Nothing else is connected to the subpanel and the GFCI itself doesn’t trip. I have pulled 40amps from this subpanel while charging my EV.
The spa heater is a Balboa VS501Z.
Any thoughts on what I can check?


texts: How can I extend an old ceiling box to fit a SmartHome relay?

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I have an old ceiling fixture box, the kind with the stud/hickey in the center that looks like this:

I want to add a fixture to this box (currently it's unused.) I also want to use a SmartHome Insteon relay to control the fixture:

Unfortunately, the relay is too big to fit in the box due to the stud and a large amount of ancient wiring crowding it.

I would like to figure out how to extend this box in a way that is aesthetically pleasing so I can use the relay. I am aware of box extenders like this:

but that would not look great since the extender will be visible between the ceiling and the fixture.

Replacing the box is not an option since it's embedded in a concrete ceiling.


texts: I removed a duplex receptacle and now my other receptacles don't work

texts: I have removed a duplex receptacle and now, my other receptacles don't work. After removal, I capped each wire separately and that was all! Why did removing one outlet cause others to stop working? Thanks


texts: Dimensions available for a gang toggle light switch cover

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I have an older home (1960s) and I need a replacement 2 gang toggle switch plate cover.

I cannot find one that measures 4 1/2 inches by 2 3/4 inches. I have found plenty of 1 gang toggle switch covers in this size but no 2 gang.

Ironically, we have wall plate that size in the kitchen, but it's in use. Any ideas?


texts: How can I add more insulation to this roof?

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We've recently leased an office in a tropical climate and I am trying to figure out the best way to increase the insulation in the building.

So far I've researched:

spray insulation (options are both inside and outside)
adding additional insulation between the steel beams

But still not sure of the best method. There is a steel roof above the thin layer of insulation that is present.

It's in the Philippines where it's an almost constant 22-32 degrees celcius, and we do plan on adding air conditioning, so the insulation is really to try and get the general temperature down to cut down energy costs.


texts: Best way to install gutters on roof with no vertical facia or eaves

texts: Hopefully the photo will illustrate the problem. I have a roof that only has a sort of moulding that transitions from roofing to the walls. Since there is only about 3/4" of vertical material to anchor gutters clips, are there any specialty hardware or other techniques to hang gutters along this facia.


texts: What tool do I need to remove this screw?

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I'm having trouble identifying this type of screw: it has a small hexagonal hole inset 2-3mm inside the barrel. Will a small hex key suffice or do I need something more specific?

(The view from above)

(The view from the side)

Apologies for the poor quality of my photos! For reference, this is on the camshaft of the motor of a Barnstead Vari-Mix Rocker.


texts: Is it possible to remove fluoride from drinking water?

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I've been looking for a residential water filtering system (preferably under sink), that can filter fluoride from drinking water. It seems that none of the systems I've looked at boast the ability to remove it. And the information I've found on the internet, is conflicting at best.

Some sources suggest that reverse osmosis systems (which was they type of filter I was looking at), can remove 80-90% of the fluoride. While others say that RO systems can't remove fluoride.

Activated alumina filters seem to be another alternative. Though I've not seen these types of filters available at the local big boxes.

Is it possible to remove fluoride from drinking water in a residential setting?  Is a reverse osmosis system capable of removing fluoride?


texts: Why does my propane oven emit a chemical smell when in use?

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We have a propane cook stove. Have been using it for several years.  Lately we are getting a very strong unpleasant odor when using the oven. Difficult to compare the smell to anything, but not pleasant. It is not the usual propane smell,much sharper and more 'chemically'. Seems to happen just when the oven comes back on, but not every time.  I haven't done any painting or anything for several years. I have moved the stove out and checked in the cupboards around it, and nothing there has changed. It only happens a coupe of times each time the oven is used, Never have this smell when using the stove-top burners.
When the oven is turned on initially, it takes up to 5 minutes for it to light, so the igniter is probably weak, but can't see how that would cause the problem, as it doesn't create that smell on initial start-up.


texts: Why are there so many different types of screws (phillps/flat/hex/star/etc)?

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Newbie question.

Why is it that there's a bazillion different types of screws? Why can't we just always use one standard screw type? Are there advantages/disadvantages to the different types? Are there times when one type is preferred over another?

Help me understand why there isn't one screw to rule them all.


texts: How do I remove excess wood stain that dried before I could wipe it off?

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While staining some wood, we had an emergency and had to leave. The stain has now dried and I'm not sure how to remove the excess; it's normally wiped off before it dries.

When I get home I'm going to try to brush on some mineral spirits to loosen it up and wait about 30 minutes before trying to wipe off the excess.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.


texts: Is there a standard length on the PVC furnace pipes coming outside the exterior?

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We have a high-efficiency furnace.  Two pipes are coming outside the house as expected.  However, right now, there is at least 2 feet or more of extra PVC on the exterior showing.

Is there any harm in removing this extra length for cosmetic reasons?  Also, what is best to use on the endcap to prevent debris, etc. from entering?  I have seen these triangular looking endcaps, but not sure of the name.

There is an overhang above the pipe. I'm guessing 1.5 - 2 feet.


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I have an existing 220 line (10-2 wire), that is an outlet for a dust collector.
I need to move the dust collector about 5 more feet down the wall. So the outlet needs to move 5 feet too.
Any problem with taking the plug out of the metal box, using it as a junction box instead, and splicing in another 5 feet of #10 wire to a new outlet down the wall?
I know this is fine with 110 but I don't do much with 220 ever, so just making sure.


texts: How can I reconfigure my breakers to make room for a sub-panel feeder?

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Right now I have  a 100amp main panel, it is full as of now. I have looked into tandem breakers for a Federal Pioneer Breaker Panel. I could not find any tandem breakers for this panel. So would my next option change my panel to a panel that can handle tandem breakers and or have more slots (100 amp service)?

Also if I were to replace electrical hot water heater with gas that opens a 30 amp double pole breaker. Can I replace that breaker with a 60 amp breaker for my subpanel?


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I’m adding a light to my closet. It will be operated by a switch. Currently, I only have a receptacle next to the closet. The light switch will be directly above the current receptacle. Currently, there’s a romex wire coming down from the attic that goes to the receptacle and there’s a romex wire that comes from the receptacle and continues along the circuit.

I know that I can run a wire from the receptacle to the light switch for power. This would be illustrated in the bottom right of my drawing. But out of curiosity, I’m wondering if it’s possible to run the wire that’s coming from the attic into my light switch box, use it as a source for my closet light, and continue uninterrupted power down to the receptacle. This would be illustrated in the bottom left of my drawing.

Wiring for bottom left option in original drawing


texts: goodman furnace /ac no y terminal on board (revisited)

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My son-in-law's Goodman B1809913S control board only has R, W and G terminals (no Y terminal). In order to make the AC compressor AND the furnace fan operate the Y and the G wires are jumpered together at the furnace end of the thermostat cable. In this configuration there is no way to control the fan independently of the AC compressor. Currently when the fan is set to "Manual" at the thermostat the AC compressor AND the fan run continuously. Not a good situation because it would cause the AC compressor to run continuously.

Is there a way to wire or configure the system that would allow the fan to run continuously without turning on the AC compressor?


texts: kitchen tiled backsplash before the faucet?

texts: Should the tiles on the kitchen backsplash be mortared and grouted before the faucet is on? Is it problematic if the faucet is on first?


texts: At what voltage are "low voltage" junction boxes not appropriate?

texts: 120VAC needs a proper, enclosed junction box. Speaker cable, data, and low voltage power are fine with the more open low-voltage boxes. At what voltage are the enclosed boxes required? Do PoE lines (48VDC) need the same boxes as 120VAC? What's the cut-off?


texts: What's the best way to secure soffit that joins a roofline?

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I have a roofline similar to this.

.

Just above the porch column, there is a roofline that joins the main roofline. On my home, birds have started to push up on the soffit and make their way into my attic. I'm assuming this is how mice keep getting into my attic as well. Is there supposed to be some sort of support behind the soffit to keep it firm against the shingles?


texts: Can I knock down this wall without the whole place collapsing?

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I have a partial kitchen wall I'm trying to tear down. I took out the ceiling drywall and there are long joists running perpendicular to the wall which made me think the wall might be weight-bearing.

The partial wall does not have a double top plate, but the weirdest thing is that the joists are made up of two by threes on the top and bottom with a long thin sheet of plywood between the two, sort of like a long wooden I beam.

The first picture shows what the interspace of the joist looks like. The second picture shows how the rest of the room requires no supporting beams. The third picture is a close-up of the plywood between the 2x3s seeming to act like some kind of wooden I-beam.

These plywood joists don't end above the kitchen wall like a normal joist would on a weight bearing wall, and the rest of the room is completely open with no supporting walls.

Do you think I can knock this wall down? And not have the place collapse?


texts: Should I build a segmental retaining wall on top of a grade beam with piles?

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80 foot long retaining wall that ranges from 4 feet tall on one end to 12 feet tall on the other.
I am planning on a segmental wall made of Versa-Lok "Bronco 18" blocks - 1200+ pounds each.  Yes proper drainage and geo-grid behind the wall, etc.
Theoretically (I think) if the bearing value of the soil is high enough, I can just clear away the topsoil, prepare a nice bearing surface of compacted road base, and stack up the blocks like legos.  HOWEVER, I would like to go further than this ...
Can I create an 80 foot long grade beam, right at the surface of the existing soil, with perhaps a 8 foot deep pier every 6 feet (helical rebar, etc.) connected to a steel reinforced grade beam (all one concrete pour) and then stack my blocks on that, with the lip hanging off the back of it, of course ?  So basically I am doing a big giant 80 foot long first block that goes into the soil with piers, and then stacking the rest of the blocks on it ?
It seems to me that this would guarantee stability of the wall, regardless of the bearing value of the soil.
Two questions:

Is this something that people do ?  Lay down a grade beam with piers to stack the segmental wall on top of ?

Is this the unbelievably overbuilt, guaranteed to never move solution that I think it is ?

Thanks.


texts: How to hang a ceiling fan box in gazebo with no parallel joists?

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I want to hang n fan in a covered pavilion which has a gazebo like roof, held up by rafters. I've purchased a ceiling fan box/support that is designed to fit between joists, but there are no joists. I was wondering if I could use 2 stacked 2x4's attached perpendicular to the rafters (with lag bolts) and then connect the fan box between the two by fours.
This photo shows the roof rafters and the drawing indicates the idea. The other photos show a mock-up of what it would look like (ignore the clamp, it is just holding the mock-up together -- in the application the 2x4's would be attached to the rafter with bolts).
Basically, the 2x4's create a 'joist' for the fan box to attach to. (The plates on the end of the fan box are aligned so that they can only be attached on the ends, and not flat against the joists).
Will this work? Or is there another way to do it?


texts: How to repair broken off wood from a chair?

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I have an old chair that part of broke of some time ago and was lost. I've finally got round to fixing it as it's a bit of an eyesore. I started by using some woodfiller which I had lying around, but after not putting too much on I thought that this might not be the best approach.

My current thoughts were to use some more filler and then sand it down to the correct shape. But once I have done that, how would I paint/varnish it to get the same colour as the rest of the chair? Is there a better approach one can take to complete this? It is worth noting that I am defiantly an amateur and don't have a whole ton of tools.
Edit
The arm is still fixed on solidly and supports my arm just fine. So this is just for cosmetic purpose.


texts: Pond Construction Calculator - have I left out any variables?

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I am interested in building a pond near my home in Maine.  Unfortunately, water supply is limited, so I was curious to see if it would be possible to maintain a pond without having to manually refill it using well water.  I found some resources suggesting the possibility of using rooftop collected rainwater for topping off a pond, but I wasn't sure if this would be sufficient, so I created a spreadsheet to determine feasibility.

The spreadsheet can be found here.

The results of this spreadsheet appear too optimistic for me to believe.  Using average rainfall/evaporation data for my area, an assumption of 1 gallon leak per hour, and inputs for the dimensions of the roof and prospective pond, the water level seems to stay completely full without any intervention all year round.

Is this possible?  Have I missed anything in my calculations?  I'm thinking of using a rubber liner, but mostly I'm investigating if this is possible in any way first before looking at specifics.


texts: Do dryer sheets interfere with the dryness sensors in a dryer?

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I have always used dryer sheets, specifically, to remove the static from my clothes.

I purchased a new High Efficiency Dryer/Washer combo from LG, and they sate that if you use Dryer sheets, you void the warranty.

I read somewhere that dryer sheets interfere with the dryer sensors of the machine, therefore, causing them to not work properly.  Apparently, they have a residue that gets on the sensors.  I also read that the sensors work by checking the static levels and I am assuming if their is static detected, maybe that signals the clothes are dry and dryer sheets interfere with all this.  Are the above statements true?


texts: Can I sense filter replacement need based on filter pressure drop?

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I should first point out that the system I'm referring to will be a self build DIY project. Fan and Filters being the only items purchased complete, And I'm still in the design phase but I'm not a HVAC expert at all. USA has forced air more commonly than here in the UK so I'm hoping you can help me out.

This is a room air filter, It will go under the stairs where I can hopefully sound proof it.

2 or 3 stage filter setup depending on pressure drop to clean the air for a 45m3 room, intending to get 4 air changes per hour.

Fan I have selected thus far is an ERK 250 which will blow into the filters.

Each filter has an initial Pa drop of lets say 50Pa new with a replacement final pressure drop of say 200Pa. My intention is to design a circuit that will have a differential pressure sensor to measure the pressure before and after the filter to calculate the pressure drop caused by that one filter thereby allowing me to calibrate it to indicate when said filter should be changed. The same for the other filters that follow.

Will the first filter effect the reading for the 2nd filter? I can't think of a reason why it would but then air flow dynamics is a black art to me.

Will it work? Are there any commercial filter change sensors out there and how do they work?


texts: Can I buy replacement clips for my soft-close drawer?

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One of the clips on my soft-close drawers broke--shattered into a dozen pieces beyond repair. Is it possible to buy a replacement without having to buy new slides?

Maybe I'm having trouble with the proper name for these things, but nothing I search seems to yield any results. I've seen them called "locking brackets," but searching for this doesn't give much.

It looks like this:


texts: Is there a way to sound proof my basement while I've got part of the ceiling open?

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We had a header beam installed in our basement.  The floor joists are exposed for 1ft (~30cm) on both sides for the length of the beam.

The basement is an apartment, so I'd like to add some sound-proofing between the floors.

Is there something similar to attic blow-in insulation where they could shove a large hose to the end and slowly retract it to give a bit of a sound cushion?


texts: How would I seal the raw edges of particle board cabinets for protection against getting wet?

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We are using IKEA cabinets for our kitchen. I've read that water is the enemy of particle board and will cause it to swell.

So I want to know if there is a preventative measure that I can take to seal the raw edges of the cabinets around the sink (basically the top edge of the base sink cabinet.)


texts: How to create an off switch for a socket that doesn't have one using a light switch?

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Two pronged European style sockets don't have an on off switch for sockets. I would like to have one, to stop the current from reaching the devices connected directly to the socket. I can place a light switch next to every socket, but what wiring will allow me to connect them?

Kind of like this photo but the switch is for the socket not any lights:


texts:
I am not sure how to actually remove the casing so that I can get to the bulb that has blown?

without breaking something...


texts: Thinking about adding a Keyboard tray to a MDF Desk, is it safe?

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So I am thinking of buying this Desk (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQDPP38/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1N6DT631H7VR6&psc=1)

And these sliding arms (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHFRUHE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3K6XLR8HSJJOI&psc=1)

For the time being I would be using my current leftover tray from a desk I am using right now.

That desk on Amazon says it uses MDF, would it be safe for gaming? I am not sure how well MDF handles screws or weight from hands/wrists resting.


texts: Do I have to do anything special when laying a shed? Ie foundations/bases etc?

texts:
I know there is already a similar question but focused on plastic sheds

My question is, I'm thinking of investing in a shed for my garden, but do I need to do any preparation or can I literally just start setting it up? I have an area in my garden that is most grass/mud and is a flat area, do I need to lay any foundations?


texts: Does the orientation of a swing check valve matter?

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I am installing a swing check valve on the plumbing of a pond. The purpose is to prevent the water from flowing backwards through the pipes during a power outage. It water were to flow backwards, which I've tested does indeed happen if the pump is unplugged, it would dump dirty water from the filter back into the pond and also potentially overflow the edge of the pond.
I'm wondering if it matters whether the swing check valve is installed horizontally or in a vertical position, if that will have some impact on its function, as perhaps gravity could have some impact on the swinging of the valve.


texts: How can I adjust my thermostat to account for solar gain?

texts:
Above is a diagram of my HVAC system. I live in a ranch with three zone hot water baseboard heat and single zone Central A/C.

I have two issues with my current setup that I am trying to fix:

My zone 1 thermostat controls the heat for the master bedroom and family room. The thermostat is in the family room which tends to run hot all year round because the lights are on, we are generally in it and there is a skylight and slider that allow sun light in while the master bedroom is cold in the winter.
The other problem is in the summer. I have single zone AC where the AC thermostat is the same unit as the zone 3 heat. It is on the cold end of the house (more shade, less sun). Because of this the family room and master bedroom are hot unless we freeze out the other end.

I am trying to alleviate both issues. Any input is appreciated.

Edit* I think to fix the A/C issue I am going to use a zone panel and electrically controlled dampers to shut off different areas. I do have questions as to whether I would need thermostats in every area to report back to the panel or could I get away with a single ecoBee and the remote sensors to report back the various temps. This should make my single zone A/C act like a multi-zone system.


texts: Hi I'm redoing my bathtub surround (because I did it incorrectly the first time). Basically there is only 3" between the tub and the door frame. How much should I extend the tile past the tub? How thin should my door frame be? If I install the door frame this close to the tub should I use special wood proof material (all the trim I currently have is MDF but I've heard that's bad to use in wet areas).


texts: Materials for building inexpensive light-weight large planter?

texts:
I've wanted to build a few large planters for a while now, and I've considered using concrete, wood, etc. I don't know what other cheap material to use.

Initially, I wanted to make them out of pre-mixed concrete, but realized that a square 24" concrete planter would just be too much weight for my rooftop. Each paver would be minimum 60-lbs each, so that's 300 pounds for one planter. Four planters would easily be over 1,000 pounds.

I then considered using wood, but untreated wood would rot and treated wood would poison the plant. So that's also out of the question.

So my question: for someone like myself with very extremely limited DIY skills and tools, how do you recommend I build a lightweight large planter?

I would like to try and build it because the cheapest 24" x 24" plastic planter is $35, and they're very ugly.


texts: Can I use 20 feet 2x4 studs to add a ceiling in the garage?

texts: I have a garage that is 22 feet by 18 feet. It does not have a ceiling but it has a roof and everything. One side is the wall that it shared with the house. And the other side is the outside wall. I intend to screw in a 22 feet 2x4 stud to the side walls. Then use 18 feet long 2x4 studs across resting them on top of the 22 feet long studs on the walls. I will then screw them in. I add the 18 feet studs every 16 inches all the way to the end. Finally I like to add drywall to the bottom of the 18 feet studs to have a drywall ceiling. Is this okay and safe. Thanks


texts: I need to fill a tall narrow gap in a plaster wall as shown in the image below. My question is: what is the best way to repair this? I have cut some ~1 pieces of drywall to fill the gap then tape the gaps from the drywall to the plaster however, I have been having a hard time cutting such thin pieces of drywall without it falling apart. Is there a better way to do this? the distance is about 8' from floor to ceiling.


texts: 3white wires and one black from the ceiling. How do I wire up a two wire fixture?

texts: Three white wires and one black from the ceiling. How do I wire up a two wire fixture? I've checked with a meter and it seems like the two wires to the far right are hot


texts: Should I keep my 5-year-old electric tank heater as a storage unit if I am about to install a new gas tankless heater?

texts:
A plumber recently told me that its perfectly common to keep the old 40 gallon tank water heater in series with a new tankless water heater.
The motivation is to decrease the time it takes to get hot water to a faucet. And also to then have endless hot water once it gets there.
As I understand  it, the tankless pumps hot water into the cold water inlet of the tank heater, and that in turn pumps out to the house via its hot outlet. The hot water either waits in the tank (which adds heat to keep temp constant) or passes through if a faucet is.
Heating happens in the tankless unit, and is maintained in the tank unit until use.
Does this make sense to do?


texts: How can I tell water pressure is too high for the washing machine?

texts:
The technician installing our washing machine said that the water pressure in the pipe to which our washing machine is connected is too high, and that it will break if we use it this way.  The manual says that it should be between 100 and 1000 kPa and that if it's higher we should have a valve installed.  I have contacted the apartment building management company, so it is theoretically possible that they will do something within the next six to eight weeks, but they probably won't tell me when they have.  How can I tell if/that the water pressure is too high (and thus, later tell when it no longer is)?

I have tried to take a photo of water flowing into an empty washing compartment, but it's difficult:


texts: So last week my wife and I discovered some evidence of mice fooling around in our kitchen at night (e.g. shuffled cleaning supplies under the sink, hoarded dog food, and of course their droppings). After a little research, I decided to get the classic spring-style mouse traps. I set them with some peanut butter and after a night or two, I woke up to a dead mouse. After that, I cleaned up and set traps again. Things were quiet for a few days but then we got another hit.  A second dead mouse captured.  We were happy up until this point because we figured it was just one mouse but since we got the second one, I had to ask myself "when do I stop setting traps?" and "did the mouse come in because it smelled the peanut butter set trap?". It's sort of a catch 22 now. I am afraid that the mouse got in "because" I had peanut butter out (as part of the set trap).  I'm afraid that if I keep setting traps that I may just be inviting these little guys in. Suggestions?


texts: When I drain my tub, the P-trap in the sink is emptied

texts:
I recently had a basement bathroom finished by a contractor.  I'm noticing a problem when the tub drains.  First off, the tub drains super fast, I was initially impressed, as I've never seen a tub drain so fast.  The whirlpool generated has at least an inch "eye", and it's quite noisy.

From what I recall during construction, the tub & vanity share the same 1 1/2" vent pipe that goes up into the second floor and out the house.

The odd thing happens when the last bit of water leaves the tub.  It literally seems like the negative pressure in the pipes as the tub water drains empties the water from the P-trap in the vanity, this leaves me to hear the tub draining through the vanity, and I would also guess would allow sewer gases to escape up into the vanity.

I would like an expert opinion on whether I should approach my contractor to correct this.  I've already paid him for the job, but he's remodeling the bathroom above this one, which may be part of the problem.


texts: Is it ok to enhance pipe insulation with fiberglass batts?

texts:
I have hot water baseboard pipes running along the inside of the knee wall attic behind my second floor bedrooms. They are covered with old pipe foam sleeves. The knee wall is insulated as a conditioned space; rafters have faced batts.

To add extra insulation is it ok to cover the pipes with extra unfaced batts (r30) that i have from a recent attic insulation project? I just want to ensure that any heat doesn't escape from the pipes...


texts: What is this toilet flush mechanism called?

texts: I need to replace the flush handle on this toilet, but I don't know what the mechanism is called, and I couldn't find a handle that fit it at Home Depot. What is it called, and/or where can I find a replacement for the flush handle with a + at the end?


texts: How to wire two light switches, two lights, and one duct exhaust fan so lights work independently but fan works on either switch?

texts: How do you wire two separate bathrooms in order to have the bathroom lights work independently while being able to turn on the single inline duct fan?I have two bathrooms. The bathroom vents have two separate ducts that eventually lead to a single duct with an exhaust fan on the sing duct. I want to be able to turn on the bathroom lights independently from one another while being able to turn on the single exhaust fan from either bathroom. Each bathroom will have a single light switch. Each bathroom light switch should turn on its individual bathroom light and the single duct Fan. I want each switch to work for its bathroom only and not the wired to be able to control the other bathroom light. I have access to run all new electric including wires and there is nothing installed currently.


texts: What cut of wood should I use for door stile & rails?

texts:
I'm starting a project to build a pair of bi-fold doors for a closet (its an odd size, and so there are no prebuilt doors of the required size). I've done research on building the doors, and think I have a handle on the actual building part, but I'm having a hard time sourcing supplies, in particular the wood for the stiles & rails, which I think should be 1 3/8" thick, 3-4 inches wide, and ~80" long for the stiles.

Does this size/cut of wood have a particular name that I should look for? I've checked the local big box DIY stores, and they have 3/4" thick boards, but nothing thicker. What should I be looking for, and what type of store would stock something like this?


texts: Is dish washing liquid safe for cleaning an oven?

texts:
An awful lot of grease fell into the bottom of my oven during its last use. Afterwards, it made sense to use Dawn to clean the oven, as it cuts grease so well. After I did that, however, I thought to worry about any ill effects of heating the oven. I did go over everything with a wet rag several times, and believe I got all the Dawn out.

Specifically, I used ultra concentrated Dawn dishwashing liquid which has no phosphates and which carries warnings to not mix with bleach. So, do I have anything to be worried about?


texts: Can I put a second layer of caulk over newly installed caulk to fill a gap?

texts:
My bathroom backsplash-to-wall junction was just re-caulked yesterday. (The old caulk was discolored and showing signs of mold.) But on one side of the countertop where there's a 3/8" gap between wall and backsplash, the new caulk was applied at a slightly lower level than the top of the backsplash, meaning there's a small area where water will pool on top of the caulk instead of draining back down onto the backsplash and countertop.

Question: can I just add more caulk on top of the now-dried other caulk, in order to raise the caulk level above the backsplash top so water will drain correctly? Or do I need to rip out all the caulk and start from scratch?

I'm using GE Max 5000 caulk if it matters.


texts: Over the range microwave outlet lost power

texts: I have an over the range microwave that we have been using for 3 years with no problems. A couple of weeks ago it just stopped working, so I just figured it was time for a new one. I replaced the microwave and when I went to plug it in, it didn't work. I checked the breaker, it had not tripped, so I plugged It in to another outlet and it works fine.  I thought maybe the outlet needed to be replaced so I replaced it, still no power. The oven runs off the same breaker, it works fine. I'm out of ideas


texts: Sealed pipe coming out from back of house - can I cut out safely?

texts: I have a 3 1/2 inch pipe coming out from the back of my house.  It is sealed as you can see from the pictures.  It is very rusted.  Can I cut it near to the ground and reseal it?  What should I watch out for?  How should I reseal it?


texts: Grounding Rod for Residential application

texts:
I currently live in Florida, where the soil is basically sand and clay. My question is: how should my grounding rod for my house be installed?
I've managed to dig up the grounding rod that was installed by the builders, and it looks suspicious. It is a corroded (I believe copper) rod that is jetting out of the foundation of the house horizontally, and buried about 4 inches deep. The main copper wire (ground wire) from the house is loosely wrapped around the corroded rod. Something tells me this is not the correct way to install a grounding rod. Can anyone tell me if this is normal, or just a case of the builders not knowing what they are doing?


texts: Replacing ceiling light with fan/light combination

texts:
In my kitchen I had a ceiling light which I turned on and off with a wall switch. I replaced the ceiling light with a fan/light combination. When wiring the instructions did not tell me what to do with a single red wire coming from the electrical box. I figured it was a ground wire. The fan motor had a green ground wire which I did connect.
I just capped the red wire from the electrical box and continued with the installation.

When I finished and turned the electricity back on, I was unable to activate the fan/light from my wall switch. I could only activate it with the pull chains on the fan/light. Should I have connected the red ground wire with the green one that was part of the fan/light? No remote came with the fan/light.

I have not done anything to change my original installation.


texts: What does it mean when my fridge sounds like a machine gun?

texts:
I have a fridge that I believe to be 20 to 25 years old.  (It came with the house.)  Not always, but sometimes when it finishes its cooling cycle, it makes a loud rattle-like sound, almost like three or four shots of a machine gun.  It's quite loud when it does it, especially when I'm trying to sleep.

The fridge itself is cool inside.  I've checked it for level, and it's perfect side to side, a hair low in the front.  There is no ice maker.

Is there anything else that can cause a fridge to make a rattling sound?  Is it possible the fridge is on its last legs?


texts:
I'm thinking about making my own cabinet doors from MDF, and I think it Can handle it, but I want to finish them with a good paint.
By good I mean something like polyurethane paint, which dries up with a high gloss and is extremely durable and doesn't fade or get sticky over time.
My worry is that from what I hear it shrinks when drying and can warp the doors.
What are people's experiences with this - or are there better alternatives?


texts: Caulk between the segments of this modular shower surround?

texts:
I found this modular (3-piece) 3-sided plastic tub/shower surround installed at a recent renovation.  I can't find any identifying information on it, nor can I locate the contractor who installed it.

There are deep 1/8" gaps between the three pieces of the surround, as well as between the surround and the tub.  Should I be filling these gaps with silicone caulk?

Here is the (horizontal) gap between the surround and the tub:

And here is one of the vertical gaps between two of the pieces of the surround:


texts: can anyone tell me how to remove these Hep20 Tees please? I want to replace with elbows and cut the lower leg off.  (I know how to seal those off thanks).  Can't upload a picture but they were fitted in 2007. They have a screw off cap and are grey, fitted to plastic and copper


texts: Where can I find computer readable RGB values for brand name paints?

texts:
Where can I find computer readable RGB values, or equivalents, for brand name paints such as Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, and Behr paints?

[Edit] My interest was not so much about the specific color model of RGB, I basically needed some kind of quantitative description of available paint colors of big name brands. If RGB is not scientifically appropriate, whatever quantitative description is OK.


texts: How do I read the markings printed on the outside of electric wires?

texts:
In my recessed lighting project, I finished roughing-in the Romex copper wires and I was about to connect the recessed lighting wires when I noticed the wires from the lights are of a silver-colored metal.  I read somewhere that connecting two different kinds of metal wires, particularly if it's aluminum to copper, will require special connectors.

I’m trying to determine what kind of metal is in my recessed lighting wires.

Can anyone help me to understand the markings printed on the recessed lighting wires?  I think it says:

TAIFULONG E204798 ЯU AWM 3321 VW-1 IBAWG 150°C 600V FENG TAI ELECTRONIC

To connect my Romex wire to my recessed light, can I use the connectors shown below?


texts: Replacing 47-gal electric water heater with no pan and elevated drain

texts:
I recently moved into a condo unit in Washington, DC (2nd floor of 2 story building) and I'm looking to replace the 47-gal lowboy electric water heater that's from 2003. The problem is that there is no pan (we do have people that live below us) and, while there is a drain pipe, it's higher than the pan (see pictures below). I believe that the copper pipe connects the heater relief valve to the drain.

Also, there's no expansion tank.

The heater is in a hard to reach location in the kitchen closet, behind the washer/dryer unit. To access it, I'd have to remove the fridge from the kitchen, take off the closet door, and pull out the washer/dryer.

The tank is 31.5-32" tall and there's 19" of space above it. I'd likely have to get the exact same size replacement because the water lines coming in from the top aren't flexible. I'd ideally like a larger capacity tank because we don't get a lot of hot water with this one.

I've had 3 plumbers come in and all want to charge me between $1800-$2500 with a "play it by ear" mentality regarding the pan. Needless to say, that doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. I'd like to know exactly what is going to be done to address the pan issue because come time to sell down the road, it's important to me that the new heater will pass inspection.

Given the estimates, I'm tempted to try and do the job myself. But I need some guidance on how to address the drain being higher than the pan. One of the plumbers suggested trying to build up the floor underneath the water heater, but I don't know how feasible that is. Also, is an expansion tank necessary?

I'd really appreciate any advice on this matter.

Adding pictures of HVAC as it relates to the discussion in the comments:

And finally, a picture of my electric panel


texts: Where can I purchase push button electrical switches?

texts: Our old house has push button light switches.  I would like to find some modern replica switches and face plates for use in some electrical improvements.  I have checked at our local home improvement stores and our one (very small) local electrical supply house they did not have any.  Is there a online source?


texts: Will charred polyurethane cedar deter termites?

texts:
Live in the south and planning an outdoor kitchen that has a fireplace charcoal grill and smoker. Looking to store cherry, peach and apple wood next to it I'd like to deter termites as best as possible because they are common around here.
My research has pointed out that wood should not be placed on the ground, atleast 8" off and some of have suggested metal but I was curious if I build a cedar wood rack, torch till blacken and polyurethane all of the cedar will that be enough to store wood?


texts: Is paint enough or do I need to shellac?

texts:
The paint from my ceiling has fallen off due to humidity/no extractor fan being used.  The exposed white rings are not leaks etc but salt so I’ve been told by a plumber who inspected it.
The smell of plaster is coming off the ceiling.
Im a sensitive person so want to seal the plaster smell in or reduce it to negligable levels etc.

Will any water based paint seal the plaster smell in sufficiently or will I need to use shellac?

If I were to use shellac how long does it typically take for the shellac smell to go?

Is it neccesary to paint over shellac or can you just leave it as it is without painting?

Were one to paint over the shellac, how long do you let shellac dry for before you paint?

Thanks


texts:
The hole I am talking about is 25cm x 25cm
Unfortunately I found out that this is a glass window(painted) so I cant just cut it.
My idea for quick fix is to try and cut the fan  metals with grinder. Then I could stick some wood there. The problem is that from outside in second photo It doesnt seem easy to reach. because the roof is 5mm glass and shattered. I honestly don't know how they put AC unit there.
Any ideas how to fill this hole ?


texts: My wife bought decorative translucent film for our bathroom. Over the last year, it's gradually peeled off until it fell off today. I tried reapplying it, but the curl of the material keeps pulling it off. Is there a viable step, or are we going to have to buy another set of film?


texts: Can a PlyGem Alenco Window With the Sash Inside the Glass Be Switched To Glass With the Sash On the Outside?

texts:
I'd appreciate any advice with this issue. I just purchased a home with a detached garage that has PlyGem Alenco windows. The sash is inside the window glass. The main home has windows with an exterior sash that can be painted. We intend to paint them a dark brown color. The windows on the detached garage are going to stick out like a sore thumb since the fixed interior sash is white.

My question is this. Can I keep the existing PlyGem Alenco frame and casing intact, but replace the glass to plain glass and add exterior sashes that can be painted to match the windows of the main house?

Obviously, if the window was broken, I'm sure I could replace the glass. But I'm not sure if there is way to add the exterior sashes?

There is a gold sticker in the window that has the following specs:

CODE: A-162-1
SPEC: H-R30
SERIES: 3852
MST: 3860


texts: How do I repair this type of Door Frame? Also, what size screws do you buy for a standard door frame?


texts: Why does netural wire on switch bypass circuit breaker?

texts:
I am switching out my old switches for automated one and in one of the bedroom I ran into an odd situation.

-The OLD switch had a: black, black, green wire
-The new switch have a: red, black, white and green wire

I turn off the circuit breaker for that bedroom and confirm it was off.  When I wired the new Switch, I connect all the wire BUT noticed that if I connect the White wire to the switch, it somehow bypass the circuit breaker and there is power to the switch...

If I don't connect this white wire then, the switch will work once I turn on the circuit breaker for that bedroom on again.

Note:  When the power was on (and nothing was connected to it), the voltage tester show that there was only 1 wire that had power (and it wasn't the white one) so i assume that the white would be the neutral.

Anyone got any idea on why the white wire would bypass the circuit breaker?

Edit:  It also appear that with that white wire, its now part of the masterbed room circuit...

In my case, all these switch have netural wire which is fine, as the rest of the house got changed over to these smart switch already and are working as expected.

It is only this one bedroom (lets call this "Bedroom A")light that it is interesting.

In which if the Netural wire in Bedroom A is used then it become part of a different bedroom circut (lets call this the "Master bedroom".

The only thing I would image this is that (as this was an older house) that for this Bedroom A... that whoever ran the electrical, just splice the neutral from "Master bedroom" to the "Bedroom A"

But I am interested in see what other think why using the Neutral wire in "Bedroom A" would cause that switch to become part of the "Master Bedroom" circuit..


texts:
I am considering purchasing a house that for the past ten years has been an HMO (House of Multiple Occupancy - so each room is rented separately, with a shared kitchen). I'm in the UK.

Because of this, what would have been the two downstairs reception rooms are currently styled as bedrooms, complete with en-suite shower room each. The ground floor of the house also has a bit of a weird flow to it (no floorplan available so I drew one based on a video tour of the house. thin lines are windows, open lines are doors; it's not to scale. red line shows original house before extension. The image is oriented with East at the top, and the back garden is east-facing. All dimensions are height x width as far as I can tell):

Upstairs is fine, it's just a typical three-bed house (one en-suite and a family bathroom); all above the original home (i.e. the extension is single-story).

I'm not against knocking down walls etc. What can I do to make this house feel like a family home, and flow better between rooms; and also get light into the dining room?

My initial thoughts are:

Move the front door to the right of the stairs, and extend the dining room down into the hallway (remove the wall to the left of the dining room door, add a wall joining to the under-stairs cupboard with a door in it)
Remove the en-suite in the lounge and the dividing wall, and have patio doors out into the garden at the top of the image. From what I can see from old pictures, the lounge used to have that configuration anyway. I could then additionally add a door from the removed en-suite into the dining room, near the kitchen and block up the current door into the lounge.

OR, perhaps, to make it more of a Q&A type question, what in general gives a family home good "flow"? or Would the suggestions I have made be feasible, what sort of costs would I be looking at, and would they help the flow?


texts: Is this type of under-sink connection appropriate?

texts:
I had my bathroom remodeled about 6 months ago and today I noticed water under the counter.
To my completely untrained eye, the plumbing connection between the sink and the drain line looks hacky. The PVC pipe is fitting loosely over the top of the metal pipe that is integrated with the sink. If I grab the PVC pipe I can make it slide up and down about 3/4", or side to side a couple of millimeters.
My gut instinct is that the installer was taking a shortcut because he didn't have the correct fittings on hand, and just tried to "make it work" in a way that makes it prone to leaking.
Is this a valid reason to go back and complain about unfinished work? And if so, do contractors typically come back and fix issues that are months old?


texts: How should I remove carpet in preparation for sanding and polishing floorboards?

texts:
I have a bedroom I want to convert into a nursery.  The room's mostly carpeted, with a small section missing where a wardrobe was built in.  From what I can see, it's just carpet over floorboards, no glue.  I'm guessing there are tack strips on the perimeter.  Before we bought the house, the house inspector said the floorboards were in perfect condition.

I want to have polished floorboards in the room, due to allergen issues.

I have next to no renovation experience, but I'm keen to start doing things myself.  Is there anything in particular I should be watching out for?

I'll leave the sanding/polishing for a separate question.


texts: What is this rubber thing on the floor near my toilet?

texts: A couple night ago, I found this rubber thing on the bathroom floor near my toilet. Anyone know what it is?


texts: Grounding subpanels located ~100ft from main breaker

texts:
Based on this question on EGCs in conduit (in the context of branch circuits) and this question on conduit as a sole ground source, I would like to know whether two subpanels, located ~100ft from the main breaker panel, can be grounded to the main panel through the buried EMT connecting them.

This is how my system (kinda) looks:

I have two 100A subpanels fed from one 100A main breaker. Eventually, I plan to upgrade to 200A service and each subpanel will have its own 100A breaker (still in the main breaker panel).

This will mean two sets of hots and neutrals (four ungrounded conductors and two grounded conductors) with each panel receiving one set. I am trying to determine if I need to run a separate EGC for each subpanel (ex. two 8AWG Cu wires), a single EGC to both subpanels (ex. one 8AWG Cu wire, as intimated by the first linked question), or if the EMT connecting the main panel to the subpanels serves as an NEC-approved ground.


texts: What does a red light on my circuit breaker mean?

texts: One of the breakers in the breaker box turns red when I switch it on. Some of my bathroom outlets do not work. This breaker is currently off, but when I turn it on, it shows a red light. What does that mean?


texts: Does cement smell/gas off after a few hours?

texts:
I may use cement to fill some deep holes.  I read that it cures in 30 days and will gas off for 30 days.  This may however mean after a few hours it will mostly be cured and then it will gas off an unnoticeable amount but Im not sure.
I need to pick an appropriate product as I am sensitive to smells and vocs.
Regardless of whether it takes 30 days to fully dry/gas off, how long would you say before the smell from cement becomes unnoticeable?
Thanks.


texts: How can I consolidate different heating/cooling systems into a single system?

texts:
I have 3 different types of heating/cooling systems that I inherited.

Hot water heat. This heats the whole house/garage via 3 zones.

Zone 1: Kitchen/Livingroom
Zone 2: Bedrooms/Bath
Zone 3: Garage

In Floor Heating

Zone 1: Kitchen
Zone 2: Hallway
Zone 3: Bathroom

Forced Air AC

Only one zone/thermostat

What I am looking for is to consolidate all these thermostats into one "system".


texts:
I am looking at replacing a downspout and possibly some gutters. Currently I have the usual rectangular white aluminum downspouts and gutters.

My concern with those is that they have limited capacity, so in heavy downpours they can overflow. Also, they are kind of flimsy.

Are there better options that would represent an upgrade disregarding cost?

Several options I have thought about are: clay pipe for the downspouts, copper gutters and stainless steel gutters. In Europe I have seen clay/terra cotta downspouts, but in the US I do not see them. Is there some practical reason why they should not be used?


texts: Is it possible to get sand and gravel back from concrete pieces?

texts:
I have concrete pieces 10 cm to 10 cm (C60 recipe with 1 water : 3.3 Portland composite cement : 14.4 gravel 0-16 mm with fibre glass reenforcement) which are not especially designed to remain underwater (but will have the usual concrete resistence against water). Will they resolve into a bucket of water within 4 weeks?

I started the process and after some days some pieces have cracks and even fell apart, but I'm not sure if that's just the glass fibre expanding.

I suspect this to work since something has to happen concrete which isn't mixed to remain when constantly under water when put into water permanently and can't imagine anything else than it falling into it's original ingredients (except the concrete having lost it's chemical reaction potential and being dissolved into water).

I realize that it's a lot of effort. It's more of an experiment.


texts: How concerned should I be over scraping/sanding a small area of lead paint

texts:
We removed a shelving unit in our kitchen that was attached directly to the wall.

We intend to paint the entire room but the cabinet was on top of many layers of flaking old paint. The house dates back to the 30s and it is likely that some of the paint is lead based.

The area is roughly 3ftx6ft and we don't have any children. Should we avoid scraping it and call in professionals or is that small an amount relatively fine?

What about sanding?


texts:
I want to install fans in a covered deck.  The room is timber beams and trying to hide wiring best I can.

What options do I have, if I use UF-B can I cover with wiremold raceway (which would be merely cosmetic b/c I believe UF-B does not need to be in raceway/conduit.

If I use THWN, I don’t think wiremold would be adequate, and I think it can only be used in dry locations.

Any options for a low profile approved conduit for damp locations?  Or is UF-B in wiremold a good option.   I would like to cover the raceway with trim.

Also I assume regardless of wire/conduit option, I need weather proof fan boxes?  If not using conduit what type of fitting do you use on the weather proof box?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Pressure Testing plumbing - pressure drop over night

texts:
I'm pressure testing some PEX before I close in the walls.  I pumped in 80psi of air around noon yesterday and it was about 60 degrees F.  Was a solid 80psi from when i filled to to 11pm (11 hours). The pressure in the lines went from 80psi to 74psi over night.  It got down to about 50 Degrees F.

Could I loose 4psi to the air getting cold?  I Have there is probably 50' of 3/4" PEX and 20' of 1/2" PEX in the closed system.


texts: Running power to a single switch from a three way switch

texts:
In my garage I have a three way switch that powers the ceiling lights in the garage. There is one switch near the garage entrance near the garage doors, and one switch near the back of the garage.  I also have an outdoor light at the back of the garage that was wired before I bought the house, but never connected, so the wires are just sitting there. There is no power to this light currently.

Is there any possible way to power the outside light off the three way switch?


texts: What could have happened to the two traveler wires in previously working three way light?

texts:
The high-hat lights (retrofitted with LEDs) in kitchen stopped working. They were controlled by two three-way light switches, one a dimmer. I played around with different configurations of the switches (including dimmer set to maximum), but lights never came on. I figured one of the switches failed. Replaced the non-dimmer switch first because it's cheaper to no avail. Replaced the dimmer and still no luck.
I figured maybe I somehow wired wrong and so pulled both switches and started testing. Identifying the common, the traveler wires, etc. I believe I had wired the new switches correctly. I also tried with no dimmer at all, just two, regular three-way switches, and the lights still didn't work.
Anyway, so a couple tests I've done:

I took some spare lamp cord and connected common from one switch to the common of the other. Flipped the breaker back on, and the lights came on. So the lights work and I've correctly identified the common.
Using the lamp cord and a DMM, I measured the resistance between the red traveler wire of one switch to that of the other junction box. The DMM reports out-of range, indicating they are not connected! Same for the black traveler wire. If one wire went bad, that's one thing, but what are the chances both got disconnected?
By accident, I measured the resistance from black traveler wire to red at the same junction box. It keeps moving around between 30 and 1000 Ohms. Similar behavior at the other junction box. This is with the breaker still off. Two wires in the same Romex connected together? Could the Romex inside the wall have been severed in such a way to short the red to black on both sides of the cut in such a way that the short is unreliable (hence the variation in resistance)?

I'm left wondering:

There's been no recent work or change to our house. What could have happened to the traveler wires?
It seems crystal clear, but am I somehow missing something about what the problem is?
If indeed, the traveler wires are severed/shorted/unreliable, how does one fix it?
A commenter suggested that rodents may have eaten the wires. But I think things are wired as in this picture: ~circuit diagram
and I think the fact that the lights worked when I directly connected the two common wires suggests that the neutral (white) wire in the Romex with the two traveler wires is indeed continuous. I would test directly, but the white is capped along with other wires behind other switches (this holds for each of the junction boxes). Can someone confirm/deny this line of thinking?


texts:
I have two standard two prong wall plugs my puppy has chewed through completely, and he managed to sink his teeth into a laptop cord as well.

I'm thinking the wall plugs are history (a lamp and a fish filter) but hoping I'm wrong and it's an easy/safe thing to repair. I'm cautious since I don't want to wind up causing any fires.

Is there another option other than electrical tape?

I've also been looking at 'heat shrink tubing' for the laptop cord, but I don't think a 'tube' will slip over and still shrink down enough


texts: How can I be sure there are no gas leaks around Gas Oven/Range Combo?

texts:
My wife was smelling gas around our gas oven/range combo, so I purchased some leak detection bubbles and a cheap gas sniffer. I soap tested everything visible around the flex line and this is what I found at the fitting between the gas line and regulator:

Turns out the person who installed the range didn't teflon tape between the regulator and the fitting, so I taped the joint and tightened everything back up. I did a second soap test and everything checked out.

But! The gas sniffer still detects gas around the oven, only when the gas is turned on. It doesn't detect gas anywhere else, even around other gas appliances in the house. I spoke with an appliance repair tech., who indicated there wasn't much he would do other than what I had already done. He suggested using a lighter to see if gas was getting to any of the burners and that he didn't think it was very likely that the regulator could be malfunctioning. He said if me or my wife keeps smelling gas, or if I detect gas at the burners when the oven is off, that he could make a service call but that he's very busy.

At this point I am wondering if the gas sniffer is just too unreliable and/or sensitive, and that the gas to the appliance is now safe. Every professional I've spoken with says they've found gas detectors to be unreliable, even with the more expensive devices.


texts:
I've bought one of those heat wrap things to try to keep the pipes in the well head from freezing.  The previous tenant of the house we bought said that it had happened in the past.

Currently there's just a piece of plywood on top of the well head with some hard foam insulation underneath.  The original concrete top turned out to be sitting a few feet away, buried under some leaves.

The previous tenant had rigged up a light bulb with an extension cord over to the house to keep the well head from freezing.

The heat wrap thing I bought is 110 Volts, it uses a normal U.S. 3 prong adapter.  The submersible pump in the well head is 220 with two hot (black and red) and a ground wire.  I don't want to use a drop cord like the previous tenant used.

I'm missing a neutral in the well head so I can't see a good way to hook up the heater.  This is in central NC, so it doesn't get terribly cold.  About the coldest it ever gets here is around zero Fahrenheit.  With some insulation and a concrete well head, how likely would it be that the pipes would ever freeze?


texts: How do I do a minor grout repair properly?

texts:
I've got grout between some floor tiles that is cracking and coming out in small chips, over time.  The tiles and remaining grout are otherwise in great shape.  I suspect this is just a problem high-traffic area of the floor in our hallway.  I'm not about to tear up the entire floor to solve the underlying issue.

But, if I did want to patch the grout (while accepting it is likely to crack again, down the road) what is the proper way to fill in missing grout so that new grout bonds with the old?  Should I remove any more of the old that appears to be cracking before filling in?


texts: How do I tape new drywall that is butted up against a textured wall?

texts: I'm replacing the bottom 12" of Sheetrock after water damage. The existing drywall is textured. How do I tape it? Do I have to sand off texture for  6" and then tape it and texture?


texts:
There are recurrent cracks in the brick wall shown in the image.  The cracks have approximately equal width along their length.  The cracks appeared within the first year of construction of the house. The cracks were then  repaired but keep reappearing in the same location.

There are no other cracks similar to these anywhere else on the other walls of the house.  The only other cracks are shown in the image in orange below the basement windows.

The wall shown in the image has a length of around 40 feet and is south facing.  Any ideas on how to solve this cracking problem permanently in a practical and aesthetic manner?


texts: Can I connect the ground wire for my dryer to a different hole in the chassis?

texts:
I am installing a new GE electric dryer (model GTD42EASJ2WW) and attempting to connect the 4-wire cord.  The last step is to connect the green ground wire with a supplied ground screw.  The hole that is annotated with a ground symbol is behind the hot wires and somewhat inaccessible.  See photo below (hole in question is pointed to by red arrow):

Rather than connect to the hole that is annotated with a ground symbol, I attached the ground wire via another, much more accessible screw hole (see above).  I am wondering whether this is safe. In other words, as long as the grounding wire makes secure contact with the metal back of the dryer, will the dryer be grounded?  Or is there potentially something specific about that one hole marked with the ground symbol that requires that I connect the green wire there?

Edit: Additional information.  Below is from the installation instructions (available online at https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/GTD42EASJ2WW).  Note the description of the bracket as "strain relief bracket", which is distinct from the "strain relief."  The instructions (step 7) say that the hole for the ground screw is "above the strain relief bracket", which is consistent with where I put the ground screw.  The diagram in the installation instructions also appears consistent with where I put the ground wire.  The only thing that's inconsistent is the location of the ground symbol.

Second Edit: Taking a closer look, there is another ground symbol hiding behind the terminal of the red wire, just above and to the left of the strain relief bracket.  This is more consistent with the diagram in the installation instructions than I had thought, which gives me further confidence that I've connected ground to the correct spot.  Thank you everyone!


texts: Can I install windows into a concrete rough opening without wood buck?

texts:
I recently cut two holes in my foundation and installed new windows. I lined my hole with 2x8 PT wood bucks that I attached to the masonry with Tapcon screws. Then I attached my window nailing flange to the wood buck. All seemed to work fine.

Now I would like to replace some of the other windows in the room (basement). The existing windows are a reasonable size, but because they are old steel frame, and the frame is very thin, the effective window area is very close to the same size as the hole in the block wall. If I follow the same strategy as I described above, then by the time I add the wood buck and a modern vinyl window, my effective window area is reduced by about 4.5" on each side! (1.5" for the buck, 3" for the vinyl window frame). The resulting window would be tiny. I am looking for a way to maximize the final size of the window without having to cut away any more block.

Does anyone here have experience attaching the window directly to the masonry opening, and skipping the wood buck? For small windows, I have heard of people essentially floating the window in the rough (cmu) opening with spray foam - no nails or screws! - but I am a little hesitant to pursue this option...

For reference I am in Anchorage AK.


texts: Should I repair small gaps between brick sill and window frame?

texts:
I have small pea size holes on the exterior wall right below the window.
I am wondering if I need to fill this hole. (see image below)

If so, what should I do? Cement?


texts: Bathroom fan venting to attic gable screen

texts:
I've read many of the other questions about venting thru gable, but this seems slightly different. I discovered my upstairs bathroom fan is venting to the gable vent. Not ideal, I know, but may be ok enough in this situation. The wind and snow blows 99% of the time from opposite side of attic through this gable, so no moisture or precipitation is coming back in the attic there. It's rigid duct from fan to close to gable vent, then transitions to cheaper flexible duct for the final inches to gable screen. From the pic, you can see the rigid duct is angled down, then the flexible duct rises up several inches. It appears the flexible have separated a little from the rigid, so I'll have to go in and tape that.

Wouldn't vented steam cool and collect in that dip?

Should I cut the flexible ducting back so it meets the screen in the bottom
corner, not 1/3 of the way up?

Should I raise the rigid with something so the angle points
a few degrees upward instead of downward, allowing the hot air to rise up and
out naturally?

Or should I just cut a roof vent above the fan to vent it out there?
The roof above attic is hit hard with wind and lots of snow, so the gable venting may be better in this situation.


texts: What causes furnaces to break in 16 to 20 years?

texts:
Why do furnaces need to be replaced in this regularly-occurring amount of time?(http://www.homeenergycenter.com/8furnace_signs.html)

Is there something about the physics of the high heat and components involved that makes this an absolute necessity? It's obviously very expensive and something to try to avoid if possible.

I've also seen some websites say around a 30-year lifetime for some furnaces. Which brands last the longest and do any last indefinitely?


texts: Is this a water leak or condensation in the wall around my dryer vent?

texts:
I pulled my dryer out yesterday to clean the vent and tubing. When I moved the dryer I noticed what looked like a huge wet stain around the vent connection that leads to my attic. There appears to be a water stain about 2 ft above that as well. Directly above the vent connection in the wall, the wall is soft and wet.
We tried turning off the water meter for 3 hours and there was no change to the meter, which indicates no leak. I left a fan blowing on the wall for about 18 hours now and the stain is less visible and all drywall is dry to the touch today. Which makes me think maybe it isn’t a leak? But, my laundry room backs up to a bathroom so I’m concerned.
It’s $350 for someone to confirm I have a leak so I'd rather not pay if someone can help identify the issue.
I also feel that I need to add I live in Florida where it is very humid.


texts: Why can't I (or: shouldn't I) run a power cord through a wall?

texts:
I would like to wall-mount my TV and have the wall be as clean as possible. I found this box and my idea was to mount this on the back side of that same wall , then run the power cable (and other cables like Ethernet and Audio) through a hole in the wall to the back, where I can plug everything in without having a wire mess in the front. The room layout and the fact that the TV is very thin and the mount is visible from the sides, makes anything behind it visible from some angle, so I'd like to minimize that...

The fact that every single cable plate specifically says "low voltage" makes me sceptical whether this is possible / allowed. I can't see the real-life issue with it, but would I run into legal/code issues if I installed it that way? If so, what's a smarter way to solve this? I would just like to have as few cables in the front. Any help appreciated!

Sidenote: I'm in Massachusetts and a homeowner (in case that makes a difference regarding code).


texts: Hunter 99123 remote control dimming feature stopped working

texts:
It has 3 led bulbs. Used to dim just fine by holding the power on light button to dim/brighten. Light works fine still, but now only very bright and can't dim.

I use this Hunter model 99123 remote(from Amazon)


texts: How can I secure a loose iron railing on a concrete step?

texts:
My backyard stairs are concrete and the railing has been getting loose.
I can now move it.

What should I do to fix it? Do I need a professional?


texts: What is this triangle shape thing that holds the bottom of shade to the door

texts:
I am wondering what is this triangle shape plastic thing that holds the bottom of the shade to the door?
I need to buy multiple of them but I don't know the name.


texts: Two outlet stopped working after turning on electronic cauterization device

texts:
I purchased a electronic cauterization device from China to burn some skin tags. The device's power adapter says 100-240v, so I assumed it's ok to use it in America.

I plugged it into my kitchen outlet, and turned it on, it was turned on briefly, then the outlet just lost power. Then I tried another outlet in the kitchen, same thing happened. I finally wised up and used a surge protector strip, and tried with another working outlet, the device finally was working properly without killing my outlets.

But Now I have two kitchen outlets that doesn't have any power, the rest of the outlets in the kitchen that I didn't plug in the device into still works fine.
I checked the breakers and turned them off and on, it didn't help. I test/reset all the GFCI in my house and that didn't help too. Have anyone experienced this before and what could I do to fix this? Thanks


texts: Recently I discovered that my three prong cord for my seven-year-old range has duct tape neatly wrapped around it for about 2 inches. Is this hazardous?


texts: What can I do about lead paint on fieldstone foundation walls?

texts: I have an old field stone basement (1870's) that is crumbling but not just the mortar, the stone itself. We have tuck pointed the mortar areas with some success. Our problem is: the previous owner worked in a shipyard in the 50's and painted some of the walls with blue lead paint. The paint has disintergrated the actual stone into a sandy mess. Any solutions for this problem would be welcome.


texts: Anyone know what this is? We have two of them. The long notched piece moves up and down. Thanks!


texts: Drywall installation on the ceiling without help

texts:
I bought a piece of drywall(48x26 inches) and ready to install it. Please see the images.

The height of the ceiling is about 11.35 foot. I tried to hold it with my hand, but it is heavy. I can't find a helper because the ladder only supports 250 lbs.

Please recommend tricks and tips.

Also I bought Black$Decker 5.2 amp 3/8 drill/driver. I am not sure whether I got the right tool and how to use it for mounting the drywall.

Should I use it drill holes on the drywall before installation?

The old screw likes below.

And do I have to drill holes on the wood with this tool?


texts: I was wondering if any manufacturer makes bricks whose top is not flat but slightly slant to be used for window sill for water drainage. I have seen slant window sills made with regular bricks that seem set in mortar at an offset but I'd prefer if they came with a slant.  Is there a name for slant bricks like that?


texts: What is the weight limit on pergo flooring?

texts: We currently have pergo installed in our kitchen/dining room and have had it for a number of years - no complaints.  We are now faced with the issue of pulling up carpet in the living room/hall as it has met its life cycle. We live in a mobile home and the carpet apparently was not installed properly when we had it done as it buckled and looks terrible and we have had to live with it for too long.  I don't want carpeting again if this is going to happen again. We were thinking of pergo but have furniture that is very heavy and want to know what kind of weight pergo will withstand.  Any ideas?


texts: Do I really need to fill the tub with water to properly apply caulking?

texts:
I recently did some patch work on my bathtub caulking. Just a little to give it a few more months before I redo the entire bathtub. My tub is floating and has a tub surround.

My wife usually removes the caulk during the day and she prefers that I do the actual caulking as I am better at getting a good bead size.

One of the steps she does to prepare the scene for me is full the bathtub all the way with water for what she says "so the caulk wont pull away". My personal problem comes from the tub water was not full and I did the patch work. My wife was against that and insisted that I fill the tub and start over. To make all parties happy I did just that.

What am I accomplishing by filling the tub with water? The weight from that does not reflect the weight that will be in the tub (estimation alert) 95% of the time. If filling the tub with water is beneficial why all the way?

Most of the instructions I ran into make no mention of filling the tub with water at all.


texts: I found an electrical outlet hidden behind wood paneling. Do I need to cut the paneling and remove the outlet?

texts:
I was hoping to quickly flip out a few electrical receptacles in my basement; however, I found that one of the outlets was connected to a outlet floating behind the wood paneling.
Is this okay given that that the receptacle is boxed in, or do I need to cut out the wood paneling on this corner to address and resolve somehow?
Hidden Box

Edit: I cut the paneling to expose the issue. It looks like it is pretty damaged and corroded. So, now should I be okay to just rewire the outlet as it was only with a new box and receptacle as long as I make the outlet accessible, correct? I wouldn’t mind having a couple of more outlets. It sounds like I should secure the wire and add clamps to the other already exposed outlet as well. Thanks all.
Exposed

Wear


texts: Will leaving an electric hose faucet timer in direct sunlight damage the timer?

texts:
I recently bought an electronic outdoor hose faucet timer.  I live in a desert with 110+ degree summers and plan to water a few trees in my lawn with it.  Is there any risk of leaving this device out in the heat?  I would expect it to be designed for it (since it is for outdoor use), but probably for your "average" temperature locations.  I could not find a hard yes or no answer on this when searching online.
My house faces the sun during sunrise and the hose/spout has no shade protection.
The hose timer I purchased is this one.


texts: California Code requirements for a low flow toilet

texts:
When calculating drain pipe sizing for a bathroom addition, what is the fixture value for a low flow toilet?
When reading the code, I see 3 one place and 6 in another.
Is the points value of a low flow toilet 3 or 6? (in California)


texts: Help my toilet doesn't Flush completely the first time or second time

texts: Please tell me what steps to take to get my toilet to flush completely the first time.


texts: What's an easy way to clad timber frame wall so as to be weatherproof?

texts:
I have recently done a repair to the back wall of my ruin of a garage and it is topped with a 2ft timber frame (5 meters long) which I will clad in plywood and then attempt to weatherproof. No one much sees it as it will be facing the end of a neighbours very long garden. Can I just pin roofing felt down the 2ft height so it drips free of the block wall below? I would like it to last a good while as access is awkward. The prevailing winds tend to blow the rain clear of this wall as its roughly north facing in London.
  What would be the simplest way to weatherproof this wall bearing in mind that I will be up a ladder and working on my own?


texts: Should outdoor deck gazebos or grills be grounded?

texts:
We recently put up a put up a gazebo on the deck of our condo unit to provide some much needed shade. The gazebo is 10'x12' and the deck is 12'x16'. The frame is light gauge hollow steel thats powder-coated. The frame slants up from the sides to a small canopy for ventilation. The top is water resistant and flame retardant.

Shortly after putting it up we got some strong thunderstorms and I wondered if this steel frame (comes to a point about 9' high) sitting on a wooden deck would be attractive to lightning? Also I realized that we have a mostly stainless steel grill on casters and attached to a natural gas line  that runs out of the basement. The line in some type of heavy rubber or plastic tubing. Don't know if it's flexible metal on the inside. A Gas Co. guy came out and checked and approved the connection, but didn't mention anything about grounding it.

So the question is should either or both be grounded and how should it be done? We do have some tall trees about 15-20' from the deck. Maybe they would be more likely to be struck and i am over-reacting?


texts:
I have a small section of wall (50sf) where the stairwell goes into the basement that is CMU (concrete masonry unit or concrete block) painted with at least an egg shell, possibly even semi-gloss.

Where the CMU from the basement level meets the textured drywall at the main level, the drywall overhangs the CMU by 1/8" to 1/4".

I was thinking of skim coating the CMU then matching texture and paint so it appears like drywall all the way to the basement floor.

Is there a product that can go over the painted surface to make it ready for a drywall skim so it sticks?  I figure sanding alone will not be enough due to the "rough" or "bumpy" surface of the CMU, the sandpaper won't make contact with the low areas.


texts: What do I do with all these outlet wires?

texts: I am trying to change my 21 year old outlet to a new USB paired outlet. There are 3 hot, 3 neutral, and one ground on the existing outlet. The new outlet does not have spring holes, and only has the 3 standard screw connections. What do I do with the extra wires?


texts: How do I remove old Moen kitchen faucet?

texts:
I'm attempting to install a new kitchen faucet, but I'm having trouble removing my old faucet. Based on the attached pictures, is it obvious what I'm supposed to unscrew?

Also, is it a concern that it looks really ugly up there?


texts: I have two switches in my kitchen for the ceiling fan. One red, white, black and ground wire. It was replaced with a receptacle but the fan and other lights on that circuit only work when you plug something into the outlet and turn it on.... What gives


texts: Copper Ptrap snapped during bathroom demo, how to fix?

texts:
Trying to demo my bathroom for a remodel, had the P-trap snap because it was corroded. I'm left with what's below. What items do I need to repair this? I imagine I would want some PVC to Copper connector and get a PVC P-trap? But there are so many available: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=P-trap I have no clue what to choose.

Also there is a bolt behind that cover in the picture, but it won't budge a centimeter. I assume I would need to remove that part that is broken, but what/how do I replace it? And what should I use to unscrew it since it won't budge a tiny bit trying with pliers.

Better pic behind the cover:

My weak attempt at measuring:


texts: How to hide angle between two uneven drywall panels

texts:
What is the best way to hide the joint between two drywall sheets (the framing is off on old house). Should I try and create a smooth rounded surface with drywall compound by building up both sides of the joint?
I'm working on the bottom side (of this drawing). It's old work, so Iwould like to avoid pulling down and changing the framing. Included from a comment.


texts:
Can Densheild boards hold a 12"X24" porcelain tile? ( the tiles are for shower walls ).

Someone told me that the top layer of the boards are paper and installing the tiles on the higher area with this size might fall down later ( the height of the area to be tiled is 5')


texts: Which control board can I put in my Whirlpool washing machine?

texts:
I have a Whirlpool washing machine, model number WFW8300SW03, which is 9 years old but in good condition except that it shows error code F-01 on the last drain of every cycle. The service manual suggests that to fix this I need to replace the central control unit (CCU). I have done extensive tests and research to determine that nothing short of replacing the CCU is likely to fix this error.

Some sources I've found say that the part number for the CCU is W10160252 and others say that it's W10205839. Here's one page that lists both numbers; it says the former is the original part number and the latter is the replacement part number. And then, to complicate matters, Sears lists yet another part number, W10525351, as a replacement for W10160252.

Question: are any of these three parts (W10160252, W10205839, W10525351) suitable as a replacement CCU?

It'd also be nice to know what the differences between them are, if possible. I'm finding a very large disparity in price between them; just for example, Sears sells the W10525351 for $110 and the W10205839 for over $240. Obviously I wouldn't want to spend $240 on a part if a $110 equivalent would work just as well.

I'm actually doing this to help out a family member, who owns the machine, but I don't think that matters so I've written the question as though it were mine.


texts: radon mitigation fan running, but u-tube manometer shows no pressure differential

texts: We moved into this house in New Hampshire a year ago.  Tons of radon off-gassing in this area due to granite rock substrate . Home inspection showed that the mitigation system was functioning properly, long-term test results below 2 pc/L.  Recently I noticed that the manometer was showing equal readings on both sides of the u-tube.  I don't recall what the level was during the home inspection.  There are no marks I can see on the gage.  When I turn off the breaker powering the fan, there is no change on the manometer.  The fan is running; I climbed up and stuck my face it the exhaust; it smells wet and musty like basement air.  It inflated a plastic shopping bag immediately.  The sump pit looks to be well-sealed with silicone caulk.  But I also see a 3" diameter hole through the concrete slab that is covered with a thin piece of cardboard.  I can hear it whistling, and when I put my hand in the hole I can feel suction.  Is there anyway for me to gain confidence in this radon mitigation system without hiring a contractor?


texts: How do I drill a long hole lengthwise all the way through a post to make a standing lamp?

texts: I have a beautiful post of reclaimed wood and I'd like to make it into a lamp. Not sure how to do this but I know the first step is to drill a hole all the way through it lengthwise. What is the tool and technique for this job and might I find a woodshop that could help me with it?


texts:
Is there any practical difference between the Hangman's Noose and the Uni Knot (a.k.a. Duncan loop)? The difference I see between the two is that the coils are wound inside the loop in the uni knot while the coils are wound outside the loop in the hangman's noose. Does this difference in configuration affect the knot's strength or proneness to jamming, slipping, etc?

I plan on using these knot to secure a line to a pole which will bear some load on the other end (think of a cantilever roofing with ropes attached from the vertical wall down to the end of the roofing to support it). I prefer using one of these two instead of an anchor hitch or some other hitch since these two knots are in a way adjustable.


texts: No power at outlets and lights, no bad breakers

texts:
In the living dining room several outlets and two overhead lights are dead.

At the service panel I checked all the circuit breakers outputs for power, and all are live. I also checked every GFI circuit in the house I could find and tripped and reset them all. I still have no power on the aforementioned circuits.

I also loosened and tightened each breaker screw holding respective wires, both at the breaker switches and neutral wires.

Still no power.


texts: Floor prep to laying luxury vinyl planks over ceramic tile

texts:
My basement has flooded twice due to sump pump failure (has been repaired, an electrical issue).  The glued down carpet was removed, and underneath was found ceramic tile which are now covered with old glue, and has grout that has chipped away in spots.   I'd like to replace with waterproof vinyl floating planks. It's a 33x15' room.
 I have had three differing opinions by contractors on how to prep the floor:  1. Take out all tile and start over  ($$$) ; 2.  Regrout low spots and lay planks;  3.  Just lay the planks, no prep needed.  Any thoughts?  Pictures included.


texts: Should I cover this gap under my front door?

texts: Under my front door, there is a wood board, but there is a 1/2 to 1 inch gap above the board and below the threshold. Is it a problem if water gets in there? I'm not sure if I should seal it. There's concrete visible in the gap, and it seems to be in line with the foundation.


texts: replacing toggle switch on furnace red-green with thermostat

texts:
currently my furnace is connected to a two wire red-white thermostat. the furnace has comon, red, green, white, and yellow terminals. red and green are connected to a toggle switch on the side of the furnace.

when should the red-green toggle be on or off?
if I get modern thermostat should I remove the toggle and connect all five wires to the thermostat?
what does the green fan circuit do?


texts: What type of common materials can I use to detect water infiltration/leaks?

texts:
I am trying to find the source for a water leak in my car when it rains. The answer here should also be good for hard to find water leaks in a house.

Is there a material I can use which tells me the material got in contact with water in the past? I mean it changes color, or deforms or does something visible permanently even if it gets dry later? I want to know that some area got water before even if it's dry now. I want to know this after the fact. I hope I explained what I am trying to do and know.

(For those interested: I did run the hose over the car for a while and saw no leaks. I think it takes time and it's happening under the inside panels)


texts: What type of contractor do I need for ventilation and ducts?

texts: I'm trying to be my own GC. What type of contractors do I need to install range hood and the necessary venting?  They would also need to help do the venting for a clothes dryer.


texts: Why do my LED lights flash on cold start?

texts:
Whenever I flip on my dimmer switch, all four dimmable LED lamps flash on in unison, blink off, and then come on at the selected dim level. This happens even with the dimmer slider maxed out, so it's not a matter of trying to drive the lamps with too little power, which I know can cause flashing and flickering.

The flashing happens only on cold start, by which I mean, if I've just turned off the lamps and then flip them back on, they come on directly with no flash. Wait just a few seconds after flipping them off - a bit past the time they take to completely stop emitting light - and they will flash when you flip the switch back on again.

I don't know what could be causing this particular failure mode, so I don't know where to start debugging this problem.

For what it's worth, I first noticed this behavior when testing after wiring in the third lamp. When only two were wired in, no flashing was apparent.

Gory details:

I have a Lutron Diva CL 3-way dimmer. The "CL" designates that it handles CFL and LED dimming.

It's driving 4 Cooper Lighting HALO 4" LED retrofit kits, model RL406830WH.

The dimmer's package insert installation instructions state it can handle up to 150 W of CFL/LED load. Each of my LED lamps draws only 13.5 W, so all 4 together draw less than 55 W. This is well within the operating range of the dimmer.

The exact LED lamps I'm using are not listed among the "Approved Bulb List for Wall-Mount CL Dimmers", but several similar models by Cooper Lighting are.

ETA: I still would like to know why I saw this behavior, but the problem appears to have been the dimmer.

Disconnecting 3 of the 4 lamps showed flash-on-start still.

I swapped the dimmer for a standard S_3 and had no problem.

I then swapped in another instance of the same model. (Though the sticker on the side gave a different hardware rev, and the assembly location was St. Kitt's rather than China.) The new dimmer caused no flash on power-on, but it couldn't dim the LEDs nearly as low as the first instance. Frustrating.


texts: Refrigerator not cooling, freezer is cold, no ice obstruction

texts:
Yesterday, I noticed that the refrigerator portion of my unit was not cooling, but the freezer was like sub-zero.

I've seen this problem before: typically it means that somebody didn't close the door all the way, a lot of moisture got inside the unit, and the airflow from the freezer to the refrigerator got blocked by the resulting ice.

I unplugged the unit overnight, and I observed that there were no obstructions this morning, so I plugged the unit back in.

To my surprise, I am still observing a sub-zero freezer with a non-cool fridge.

I see that the compressor fan is running, the freezer fan is running, and there does not appear to be any obstruction in the duct at the bottom of the freezer that carries the cold air to the refrigerator.  I also do not see any sort of additional fan that is being used to force the air into the fridge, so I do not see any other components that could possibly be causing this problem.  Yet, even if I put my hand right next to the duct, I don't feel much cold air entering the fridge (and certainly not enough to keep anything cool).

And, yes, I've turned the refrigerator control to coldest, so that's not the problem.

This one is very confusing... any ideas?


texts: What wire do I need for a 60-amp sub-panel in a greenhouse ran 140' direct burial from the power pole?

texts:
I will be installing a 60amp sub panel in my hoop house greenhouse that I just built and am not sure what exactly I need to buy to run 140 ft direct burial from the main service panel(the power pole itself) to the sub-panel in my greenhouse.  I'm not sure what cable(s) I need to get exactly, I believe I need 6AWG but I don't know what I need to ask for exactly at Home Depot.  Do I get something with 2 hot, 1 neutral, and 1 ground cable and run all of that underground to my sub-panel do I need copper or aluminum? I'm a little overwhelmed with all of the different types of cables.

Also, it sounds like I need to install a grounding rod at the greenhouse as well, so I just run a copper wire from the grounding rod straight to the sub panel as well as the cable from the main service panel.  I guess they would both just be installed inside the sub-panel on the same grounding bar?

Thanks for your help


texts:
How can I straighten and strengthen this joint?

I can remove the screws holding them together if needed, but that's pretty much all I can do.