texts: Can I reuse the screws and holes of a ceiling rose to fit a surface mount light?

texts:
I'm moving into a new build and in some room. I have some simple pendant lights with a rose. Unscrewing the rose reveals a new box that seems to click in place and that hides all the connections and potentially the screws that are keeping it attached to the ceiling.
If I manage to remove this box, can I reuse the screws and the holes to fit a surface mount ceiling light or would I have to drill new holes? By the looks of it, the mount bracket seems to have both wide and narrow holes, and the latter might match the current holes.


texts:
I'm trying to replace old dimmer and timer (sitting side by side) with new Leviton dimmer and Lutron timer, however the box got me confused as it appears all neutral white wires are tied together in one nut and are not attached to anything - please see picture. There are also white wires coming out of top and bottom on the left switch..How do i go about connecting the dimmer and timer? Dimmer has ground (green), red and black. Timer has red, ground, white and black wires.

On the left dimmer - I tried to connect red wire from new dimmer to red and black from the box (circled top left on the pic in red/black).

I also connected black wire from the box (circled in black) to black wire on the new dimmer.

On the timer on the right - I connected black wire from box (circled in black) to the white wire
on the new timer and then I connected black wire (circled on the bottom left in black) to the black wire on the new timer.

I also connected red  wire from new timer to red wire on the dimmer switch on the left as there is no red wire coming out of the box on the right for some reason.

Grounding wires (green) both are connected to each of the box's screws - on the left and right of the pic.

When I made connections, i lost some power in nearby locations i.e. bathroom and some kitchen outlets.


texts: Why does my Whirlpool refrigerator ice maker not make ice exactly one day a week every week?

texts: My Whirlpool Gold refrigerator's ice maker does not make ice one day a week. After that day it begins to make ice again as normal. I think I read in the manual about a setting for Jewish households that would halt ice making on the sabbath, but, I can't find it again. I need it to make ice everyday.


texts:
I have a garrison colonial house with vinyl tilt-in windows that need cleaning. I'm thinking to take the sashes outside in groups and hose them down, so I need to mark the sashes and frames with some sort of identifiers so I don't mix them up.
Problem: I can come up with a half dozen systems for identifying the windows, but I'm sure a couple of years down the road I'll have forgotten which system I used, confusing the heck out of yours truly.
Is there a standard way to identify a house's windows? Absent that, is there a system that, when you see the identifiers, you can figure out what it means?


texts: In an old house, do I need a ground wire to install newer outlets, lights, and appliances?

texts:
If I have an old house, as in 80 years old (the wiring is newer than that), and it only has two wires, hot and neutral, no ground, can I connect newer things like ceiling fans or hanging lights?
The house wiring isn't 80, but it is old enough to have Wadsworth breakers.  The outlets are not grounded, and someone said if I get GFCI outlets this will ground the outlet (put on in each room they said.)  One person said if I don't, my computer and electronics will get surges or fry.  The house is grounded, but not the receptacles.
I really did not want to rewire the whole house.  The wiring itself is good, not paper sheathing the electrician said.  This particular electrician said it would be "ok" and he wouldn't worry about plugging in things like computers or get a UPS.  The electrician also said even though a couple of the GFCI outlets in a bathroom were ten years old that they still trip and are ok.
Does the house have to be rewired to use modern electrical devices (lights, tv, refrigerators, computers, etc.)?


texts: What causes uneven floors and can they be fixed?

texts:
I've seen two distinct cases.

In the house I currently live in, the largest room in the basement has a floor that is uneven. Basically it dips lower towards the middle of the room. I presume this is caused by the foundation beneath settling.

When I went to view a room for rent, one of them was on the top most portion of a large old house. The room itself was small but after a minute I noticed it was slanted, yet the floor itself was even. It was quite an unpleasant sensation, visually the room looked to be normal but you get the sense of imbalance. The current tenant told me he had sheets wedged beneath one corner of the bed to compensate. What would've caused the floor to be like this? Tangent: in the same room there was a small fireplace. Isn't it odd to have a fireplace on the top level of a house and in a bed room?

Is there anyways a slanted floor can be fixed? In the second case the floor was made of wood.


texts: Running 20 AMP switches to shed that is 100ft away from main panel

texts:
Im preparing and researching about a conduit installation. I have a shed that is 100ft away from the main panel which is located inside the garage. I would like to bury 1" PVC 40 Schedule from just outside the main panel which is located inside the yard area to the shed. I would like to run 3 - 10 gauge wire to the shed to feed three 20 amp circuits. Once inside the shed I would like to distribute the 20 amp circuits to various points in the shed. I have a workshop that I am currently running an extension cord to run devices one at a time.
Also, once the 20 amp circuits are inside the shed I would like to run 12 gauge wire inside to various outlets.
Will the idea of the three 10 guage wire inside the 1" Schedule 40 PVC going to the shed to feed three different 20 amp circuits work? If not how can I be able to run the three 20 amp circuits.
Thanks


texts: Can I use a plastic basin positioned near joists to compensate the lack of slope in a ceiling condense drain?

texts:
Is this a design that is acceptable?
Basically I am building a small box that will collect water pumped up by the condense drain. I will put this up in the ceiling in the furnace room just between the joists. The pump will pump the water in the box. If the 1/2" does not have a proper slope this will compensate for the lack of it; as the water level increases in the basin it will force the water to drain through the pipe.
This is intended to reduce the stress on the water pump which is currently having to push twice to push the water surplus through the existing setup. This is partially because I went all the way to main drain with a 3/8" PVC tubing and I think that is bad. When the pump stops the water trapped on the vertical segment between ceiling and joists level has nowhere to go and it drains back in the pump collector box.
That in turn makes the pump start again and the cycle repeats till sufficient amount of water is finally pushed through to stop this even when the water is coming back.

The alternative, in case I manage to give it a mild slope is to use this setup

Update:
NOt sure what is causing the water backflow that I am seeing at the bathroom end where the drain will be (for now I am using a bucket to test this)
The pump seems to have a backflow preventer as there is water in the vertical segment

Update2:
I think what is happening here is this. When the pump stops there is a hump at point ❶ in the last picture. That water will flow back and it creates negative pressure and that is causing the water movement that I am seeing in the tub despite the pump having a backflow valve


texts: How do I hang drywall where the wood is uneven?

texts:
I need to hang some drywall; my ceiling has a couple spots of uneven-ness. There's a few spots that are about 1/4" out of whack and another spot where joists+hanger are a little less than 1/2" down.

It's a normal sized room and the spots that are either bulging or sunken are all located in the same area. I am wondering if that warrants furring out the ceiling or will the drywall flex enough where there's a half an inch level difference?


texts:
I am building a deck with 2x8 joists so the trim would be around 2x10 to have a look like these:

OR

However, I am not sure which materials to choose.

Option 1

This one is pressure treated but it is more appropriate to be for framing, right? I mean if I paint it white, would it look good considering how thick and rough it is? What is another wood alternative for nice looking white board?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_476182-10926-476182___?productId=50017316&pl=1&Ntt=2x10+deck

Option 2

I was looking at PVC but those are very expensive. And I am not sure if they are good for decking?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-3-4-in-x-9-1-4-in-x-8-ft-White-PVC-Trim-3-Pack-IN5416445/203640258

Option 3

Going with the Trex white since I use Trex

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=343649-63201-940127

However, I don't know if this is overkill or not?!

What are other options of material?


texts: Air Conditioner woes: water pooling in basement, condensation on ducts, frost on outdoor copper pipe

texts:
Can someone help diagnose what's wrong with my air conditioner?

The symptoms are:

the air that it is blowing is not very cold

It's colder than the ambient air, but not cold enough to cool the house more than 1 degree

there is condensation on the supply ducts exiting the furnace

The condensation is inside and outside the ducts

there is water pooling on the ground below the furnace

I suspect this is probably the condensation flowing down the duct into the furnace then down onto the ground

On the large copper pipe on the outside unit, some of the insulation had rotted away. I observed frost on the exposed copper.

I've tried:

Putting new insulation around the outside copper

I have not observed frost since

Put insulation around the ducts, but they still have condensation
Cleaning debris around and inside the outside unit.
Vacuuming the fins condenser coil and the evaporator, and used a alkaline cleaning product

neither were very dirty in the first place, and I was very careful not to bend the fins

I run a dehumidifier in the basement
I've opened all the registers

I have not tried:

cleaning the drainage pipe

I can't access the pan or outlet from the inside of the furnace
the pipe is PVC that's been glued on. I'd have to cut it to investigate

talked to a professional

I've got an appointment scheduled, but I always like to have an idea of the problem before they come so I can ask intelligent questions.

Other info:

this same thing happened 2 years ago. At the time, the professional who came out added refrigerant and that fixed it

He said that if there was a leak, it would all just leak out again right away, but it took 2 years for the issue to come back.
Does that mean the leak is very slow? or is there no leak?
I've read that AC units don't just consume the refrigerant over, it's in a closed loop, so there is no need for regular recharges.

the blower belt looks pretty worn, it's at least 5 years old, but it doesn't sound like it's slipping

Update

I had a HVAC company come out and take a look. The refrigerant was low. They gave me various options including finding the leak and refilling the refrigerant, or replacing the whole AC & furnace. The system was installed in 1987, so I'm ok with replacing it. Their quotes seems pretty high though, ranged from $10000 to $16000.


texts: Can I use a 10/3 cable to supply a sub-panel for a tankless water heater?

texts: I am looking to add a tankless ecosmart 27 water heater to my barn. I'm currently running a 60 gallon electric water heater supplied by a 240 line. However, the tankless system requires 3 supply lines. Is there any way use the current 3wire 240 supply line to supply the sub panel?


texts: Can I use sprinkler cable for LED light strip extension?

texts:
I have a bunch of leftover sprinkler cable, 18/5 solid copper.  The product description from the manufacturer says it can also be used for low voltage landscape lighting.

I need to run an extension from a power supply to LED light strips, 24V.
Most of the cables sold as RGBW extension are actually 22AWG stranded, but I do see some 18AWG stranded as well.

Is there any reason I couldn’t use the sprinkler cable?  Is there more to it than just the wire gauge?

Based on my understanding, stranded would allow some movement without breaking, but I’m not sure if that would be a concern.

I’ll be using this under a covered porch.


texts: How can I install an electric dryer using the old air conditioning circuit in my breaker box

texts: I disconnected my central air conditioning unit and I was wondering if it is possible for me to hook up my electric dryer using the circuit breaker that my air conditioning was using.


texts: Multiple Toilets Bubble when shower turned on

texts:
We just moved into a rental home after selling our home and waiting for our next home. It has 3 toilets.

Someone was in the shower and the toilets started bubbling, all 3 toilets. The shower was not backing up. I tried flushing one of the toilets and it started to fill with water. After about 20 minutes we plunged all the toilets and the water went down.

I understand it is a rental but we were very lucky to get this rental for a short term lease and if there is an easy fix (my husband is a repair man) he would do it himself.

I don't know if this makes a difference but the day before we moved in there was a storm and the roof above a half bath was damaged. The roof was fixed that day, but a piece of drywall around the vent is being fixed monday.

Ive read some threads on the issue, but I have never heard anyone say all the toilets bubbled when one specific shower is turned on. The toliets are not even close to each other. The house is 2700 sq ft on one floor. No neighbors are having issues. We are in a HOA that maintains the water service (sewer). The house is one a hill, level lot but on a hill. It has a small pool and spa that run all the time (like water spilling over from the hot tub to the pool in a loop. I don't care if this feature is on and didn't know if turning it off would help.

Any advice would be appreciated.


texts:
I'm seeing large patches on my California basement wall.
It is a tiny basement that is common in Los Angeles area. The basement is in the middle of the house, so it is quite far from the perimeter. The patch seems a little moist and the wall material seems to have dissolved a little as can be seen by the white powder and the texture of the wall

What is causing it? What can be done to prevent it from getting worse? Is it a big concern?

Thank you!


texts: I need to Mount a 55" Sony TV on a Wood paneling wall w/no studs

texts:
My wife and I rent a duplex in an old neighborhood of Honolulu, HI. We have talked about mounting our 55" XBR-55X810C Sony 4K TV since we bought it, and yesterday we bought a mount on a whim. It's a Stanley tilting mount for 32" up to 70" TV's up to 90 pounds in weight. The XBR-55X810C specs say it's 38.2 pounds. Here is a link to the mount: http://www.stanleymounts.com/tlr-es2215t-product-page.html

But unfortunately, everything made sense after a wasted trip to the HW store to buy a $15.99 stud finder, and that was, the walls are thin pieces of wood paneling without studs the tilting mount instructions call for. Umm, probably should have added that up when we realized the electrical sockets throughout most of the electrical outlets are facing sideways on the baseboards, and the light switches have electrical running on the outside of the wall into the ceiling (pictures attached).

The wall is located between our LR and MBR; and there is no view to see what's inside, checked the breaker and ground, but there is a ceiling crawl space in the bathroom I can can look.

To measure the thickness I measured the inside of the door jam (3 4/16"), and subtracted the measurement of each outside edge of the jam to the wood paneling to the wood paneling on both sides, subtracting the outside doorjam overhang on each side and taking it away from the initial measure (inside measurement - (1 11/16" + 12/16") 2 7/16" = 13/16" of thickness, in total, for both sides of the wood paneling which is surprisingly sturdy and holds sound quite well.

I searched the DIY site before typing this all out and couldn't find the exact scenario, so I am hoping that a few kind users could offer me advice on how I could make this mount work, given the layout of the room, having no other mounting options (except for maybe a floor standing mount).

So if there is a reasonable way for a DIY novice like myself to safely install the TV with minimal damage to the wall, then I am all ears and would be so appreciative.

The wall plate hardware includes are 4 lag bolts with washers, and concrete anchors. The directions say to drill 3 inch pilot holes into studs which have no less than a total depth of 3 1/2 inch, with a 3/16" bit.

Pictures are attached. LMK if you need anymore info to help.


texts: What is this metal rail in the basement ceiling

texts: What is this metal rail in my basement and can I hang my 80 lbs punching bag on it? Thank you.


texts:
As part of a local council grant, I am getting my attic floor insulation (2 inch thick fibreglass) replaced with 4 inch thick insulation. It will lie between the joists, on top of the plasterboard which forms the ceiling of the rooms below.

I then plan on flooring the attic - not as a living space, but for storage.

As the joists are 2x4's, this means there will be no air space between the insulation and the flooring. From various articles I am unsure as to whether this is a problem, so my question is a 2 part one:

Do I need an air space between insulation and flooring in the attic? And if so, would adding joists on top of, and at 90 degrees to the existing ones and placing flooring on them be a practical solution?

I have read this question and I don't think it covers off my lack of knowledge in this area.


texts: I have finally entered the world of DIY and built a desk based on the design of a coffee table we bought. Unfortunately it wobbles from front to back as you are sitting at it to the extent I can't really work at it and am concerned I'll weaken it further. Think the issue is where the top of the legs are screwed horizontally into a horizontal piece that sits beneath and across the top boards and is screwed vertically up into these (I.e. the legs are not directly attached to the top boards). Would a diagonal support at each corner from the leg into the cross board help do you Think? Any suggestions much appreciated!!


texts: How can I safely test my (optical) smoke alarm?

texts:
My landlord has recently reinstalled my smoke alarm. It is labelled on the smoke alarm as an "Optical" type.

The smoke alarm appears to be working - it's powered by both mains electricity and battery - it shows a green status light, and when I push the test button it does indeed beep as expected.

However, being a cautious type, I've tried holding a lighting match 20cm or so below it, then extinguishing it. That generates a small puff of smoke. This doesn't seem to trigger the alarm.

Should I reasonably expect that to trigger the alarm? Is there anything else I can do (safely!) to test the alarm?

In case it's relevant, I'm in the UK.


texts: Is deck joist sistering a sloppy repair?

texts:
I have a few bad deck joists that I replaced with new PT joists.  These repairs are great.

Now I have a few more not too bad joists that will be rotted in a few years.  I am thinking to add new PT joists sistering with the old ones.  In addition, I will add carriage bolts to strengthen the two sistering joists together.  My new joists can rest on a beam at one end, so the carriage bolts will be act like joints hangers.

Is the sistering repair an OK practice?  Shall I go the complete repair to take the old joists off?


texts: Is it possible to fix this swollen floor?

texts:
First of all sorry for my English. I've built a playhouse for my kids:

I've painted it using this:

The construction took me maybe more than 3 months (this was my first attempt to cut a wood and build something with it) and many times it rained before I could able to paint. However there was nothing wrong about the floor, before its being painted. I've waited for a moment that at least 4-5 days it didn't rain and feel confident enough that its dry enough to start painting. After ~1 week I've painted, the rains start again; and after a while I've realized that the floor was swollen like this:

I was thinking that the paint would seal the wood from water, so there would be no such problems. Actually I have no idea why this happened. I'm not sure the wood is wet or not, and this problem is because of being wet.

The floor has two layers. The upper layer is molded board (as seen in the picture) of about 1 cm thickness. The lower layer consist of boards of 2cm x 20cm x with of the entire floor. And this lower layer boards have a 0.5-1 cm space between them and they are sided perpendicular to the upper layer. I mean they are not on the same direction. So I don't expect this problem is caused because of the lower layer. Also I saw no problem when I look from the bottom.

The upper, swollen floor layer has been screwed on every beam. This picture shows the places of the beams (the view direction is from ground to the sky)

My questions:

What might be the reason for this. Can it be the paint? Should I had
used a varnish?
Is there a way to fix it? I've tried to put some screws on the
swollen parts, but it did not help at all. I'm 130 kg and the swollen parts are not effected when I jump on them.

Edit

Layers:

Bottom View - The two layers are screwed to every beam shown in this photo:

The problem:

The upper layer boards are like these:

I hope its more clear with these photos.


texts: Draining problems in dishwasher. Is this drain setup ok?

texts:
I have issues with dirty water in filter area and dishes not coming clean. This is a new dishwasher. Old one had similar issues so I think it is the drain and not dishwasher. Is the drain setup ok? Would it be better going to disposal? There is no possibility of adding an air gap.

Update:  The upright pipe is what I think is an attempt at a loop..air gap thing.  The plastic drain hose from the dishwasher comes out of the dishwasher..across the bottom of the cabinet.  Up the side of that white pipe where it becomes clamped to a copper pipe.  That empties into the white pipe which goes back down to the bottom of the cabinet and out its own drain.
Thanks!


texts:
I got different answers from different contractors and I am so confused now.
Some said this is hardwood, and some said this is bamboo.
If is it wood, is it possible to tell what kind of wood is this? Can you really tell by eye what kind of floor is this?


texts: I'm building shelves into an alcove. They're mounted onto wooden battens that I've screwed into place with slotted, domed brass screws to get a 'retro' feel and for decorative appearance. To finish the job I'd like to hold the shelves down by screwing them into the battens and would like to do it with similar domed brass screws. The batten I'm screwing into is only 15mm wide, so I'll have trouble drilling a pilot hole that close to the wall and need the thinnest possible screw of this type (domed brass and slotted) in order to avoid splitting the boards at their edges or the battens. Can anyone advise on the thinnest screw of this type and where I can buy them? I found some places no longer sold this type of screw at all.


texts: Why cant my screws for the electrical box attached to the aluminum siding?

texts: Im putting a new all weatherproof single gang electrical box on my garage (40 yrs old) with sometime of cork frame backing. When i screwed it in it just kept on turning regardless if i had increase the screw size. It isn't catching (like putting it into stucco). There was an old one on there that had a 12 and 14 gauge illegal connection and the box was also loose. What would you recommend a particular anchor for this or just drill it through 1 1/2" and put a machine screw with a Nut on the inside of the garage ( not sure if that is code). Also because the electrical box wont lay flat due to the two brackets that protrude out (thus making it impossible to be flushed), should i add two more brackets (four in all) so that it would be somewhat flush against the siding? I don't want to put a wall mount behind it. Appreciate your help. By the way inside the garage it is like a silver paper backing.  the material looks like this - similar to a plaster with a white substance and silver backing


texts: Connecting 7200 watt generator to fuse box

texts: My 7200 watt generator has two 240 volt outlets. Both are 30 amps. One is a 4 pin plug and the other is a 3 pin plug. I plan on using the cheaper lockout system involving 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker and locking connectors. Just wondering if it is possible to run both circuits to the fuse box. 30 amps are only giving me 3600 watts. Can I double that to use the full potential of the generator? Thanks in advance.


texts: How can I mount a large, heavy, half-inch-thick sign on a wall WITHOUT drilling through it?

texts:
I'm trying to mount a large sign - roughly 7.5 feet wide by 2.5 feet high - that's made of some kind of very hard plastic on a wall (drywall with wooden studs).

For a number of reasons, I don't want to drill through the sign. But it weighs roughly 60 lbs, so it can't be glued or anything: I clearly need to mount something else to the wall using screws in studs (or very strong drywall anchors).

Essentially, this makes the project a lot like hanging a frameless mirror - I need clips or clamps or something that can be sturdily mounted, that will hold this thing in place. But the mirror clips and j-mold stuff I've been able to find are all designed for thin, flat things (like a mirror). This sign is 1/2" thick.

What are my options? I'm open to corner holders, many metal clips around the perimeter, a j-mold-like solution, etc. Just can't involve putting holes through the sign itself.

(I did do a a fair bit of searching for dupes, but none of the excellent mounting posts I found seemed to address a situation like mine. If I overlooked one, point me at it, and apologies in advance.)


texts: Gas boiler cuts out after being switched on

texts:
When I switch on our gas boiler (mynute he), it turns off after approximately 2 seconds.  Link to newer model here https://www.vokera.ie/homeowners/boilers/mynute-vhe-2/
I checked a radiator to see if air would come out and there doesn't seem to be an excess of air.  The water pressure is at 2 bar so no problem there.
This started after a local power outage where the boiler was unpowered for several hours.
Any ideas?


texts: Home A/C Repair/Replacement quotes are very different. Which one to go with?

texts:
I recently have been having issues with my A/C unit on my Condo which was built in 1986. This unit might very well be the original A/C unit. It has two components, the fan outside and the air handler in the attic. I had the A/C maintenanced last summer and was told it was leaking Freon. They filled it up to spec but told me it would just continue leaking, which it has 1 year later.

Company A (big A/C company) told me to replace the whole unit because the fan was going to go out soon and both components are leaking freon, he didnt actually check for a leak, and gave me a quote for a 2 ton A/C for a 900 sqft condo costing about $5100 for unit and install with warrenty.

Company B (mom and pop shop A/C company) told me the leak is most likely in the Air Handler, just a guess and still needs to check, and they can replace just that part of the system for about $2000 while replacing the fan's capacitor and other parts for about $100.

I have a lot going on this year and would not like to dip into savings to fix so option b looks better and while I would rather replace the whole thing, I wanted to know if what Company B told me is true, I can replace just the Air Handler and not worry about the fan till later, which he said was in decent shape.


texts: Are there any issues with using deicing salt on sand stone paving?

texts:
We are thinking of getting some sand stone paving installed, however we have to be able to use lots of deicing salt in a bad winter.

Will the salt stain the sand stone?

Any other issues we should be aware of?


texts: cracked 4x4 that support some of the kitchen floor

texts:
picture worth 1000 words

this 4x4 was there for years, I'm a new owner since about 2 years, i didn't really notice or took picture of this 4x4 before.

should I be worried about this?

it support the entry door platform/stair going down and up and about 40-50 square foot of the kitchen floor, there is a dishwasher right above it

the steel beam that support the floor is on the other side of the platform (which is about 3 feet wide) (face of this 4x4)

EDIT

video of the 4 sides, see description


texts: I have a Moen 4600 faucet. It leaks quite badly so I am attempting to replace the valve. I have removed the retainer ring but cannot pull the valve out to replace it. It seems to be seized. Any suggestions. Maybe I am missing something - I am not much of a plumber!


texts: How can I test a dishwasher's water inlet valve?

texts:
Our Bosch dish-washing machine (SGS 6902EU/07) is no longer filling in with water, displaying "F" on the led panel. Opening the side panel I see that no water is flowing in from the water mains. The dishwasher is using an Aquastop 's main water inlet valve: this is located at the water mains location, rather than inside the dishwasher.

To determine whether the problem is associated with the inlet valve or with the dishwasher, I measured the voltage across the inlet valve's terminals and it was 0V. I then considered the possibility that the inlet valve was short circuited, so I also measured the voltage with one terminal disconnected. The the dishwasher was turned on, this rose to 2.4V DC.  I think this is too low; a manufacturer of such valves gives a 12-220V range in its specifications.

Any idea on what the voltage should actually be?  Any suggestions for testing the valve?


texts: How high does exposed EMT have to be from ground running down side of home?


texts: How can I fix the noise level in my home?

texts: When anyone walks above me in our two level home it sounds like a herd of elephants stomping through. Is there any way to fix this?


texts: How should I blend floor stain applied to different areas at different times?

texts:
I bought a house I have stained two of the rooms I was not able to do the floors all at the same time. So I am now ready to stain the other floors. How do I blend the floors from room to room?

I have put a couple of coats on and you can clearly see the line from the old to the new. I am using the same color stain.


texts: Why is hot water coming out of the faucet but the shower is ice cold? (Diverter not on spout)

texts: My shower has 3 knobs & the spout. The diverter (that turns from spout to shower) is in center of shower wall between hot & cold knobs. I've checked to ensure the diverter knob is fully turned onto shower. Is it difficult to fix/replace when the diverter isn't on the tub spout?


texts: Why does one set of G9 led bulbs work and others do not?

texts:
I have 2 x identical ceiling lights (each with 5 bulbs) and recently decided to change the G9 led bulbs from bright white to cool white however only 1 of the lights worked. All 5 bulbs failed to light up in one but not the other. I changed back to the old bulbs - all lit up. I swapped the new bulbs from the lamp that was working but still nothing.
Both lamps are non dimmable and the switches are simple on/off type.
I am completely baffled as I can see no reason for this - can anyone suggest why this might be?
Yes, I have tried swapping all bulbs around but the Integral LED G9 bulb refuses to work in the one light fitting. It is a complete mystery- totally baffled.


texts: Is this wall load-bearing (Blue prints included)?

texts:
We just bought a house and would like to remove a partial wall that was added as part of a remodel. I have the blueprints for the remodel (completed with permits in the 80s).  I've attached images of the relevant portions.  The house is in San Diego, CA, if that makes any difference.

The wall I'd like to remove is circled in red and the location of the original exterior wall is highlighted in blue.  I've also attached the plans for the changes to the foundation.

I'm new to reading blueprints, but it looks like there's a 4x14 beam running across a post at the end of the wall we'd like to remove, and that post is firmly attached to the foundation.  This makes me think that we can remove the wall but not the post.

Does that seem correct?

I'm also curious about what "CC' CAP" and "2x8 PERIN" annotations mean.


texts: What could be causing me to occasionally hear an arcing sound when toggling a switch?

texts:
Several light switches in my house occasionally (<2% of the time) make an arcing sound when being switched on or off.  Occurrence is totally random and as far as I can tell, uncorrelated with anything else, including the load or how rapidly the switch is flipped.  I replaced one switch with no effect... The new one exhibits the same behavior.  House was built 1992 and has copper wire.

Any idea what causes this?


texts: How do I properly ground my subpanel that only has one neutral/ground bar?

texts: I am adding a sub panel in an unattached building. My sub panel has the  connection for the 2 hot wires coming from the source panel (a 40 amp double breaker) In addition it has one neutral/ground bar which has a green screw head for the ground and a row of places to connect neutrals. I am seeing advice on sites like yours to not connect the ground wire on the same bar as the neutral. So with only one bar I am not sure what to do with my ground wires. Do I need to install a second ground bar? I have the ground wire coming from the house that is well grounded through the house 200 amp service as well as a buried ground rods outside of the outbuilding. Do I use both and if so do I connect them both to the same ground bar?


texts:
The area in the photo is in the bathroom next to the shower stall. The damaged area is approximately 3.5 inches wide. The previous owner of the house had allowed a leak from the shower enclosure to affect the area and over time the drywall and/or plaster had degraded, so I cleaned it out with a putty knife.

The leak from the shower has since been fixed and the area is now dry. Fortunately, there is no sign of more extensive or significant damage to flooring underlayer (plywood) or wooden wall joists.

I am starting a renovation of this bathroom and I am looking for options how to fix this water damage. The area is very confined due to the way it was constructed as a sort of notch. Do I just use a putty knife and try to fill in the area with plaster or something, while attempting to keep the surface as flat and level as possible? Are there any other options?


texts: Advice on how to remove a faucet cartridge

texts:
Trying to replace our faucet's leaking cartridge ( hot water ) and having problems removing the old one.

I was able to unscrew the top part but insides stuck and won't come out.

I can turn it with pliers but it doesn't seem to come out at all.  I  also tried to yank it out but it will not budge.


texts: Extra powerful boiler short-cycling and overfilling

texts:
I have a gas powered steam radiator heating system with 8 radiators in the entire house. I replaced my old heating boiler with Crown Bsi138enpzzpsu 138K BTU which is way too powerful for my house.
My boiler short cycles for these 2 reasons.

The boiler gets too low on water if I start with water level slightly more than half on the sight glass tube. Boiler runs fine for a while until it gets low on water - I think boiler is powerful enough to push water up into the pipe. After low water cutoff is hit, it shuts down for a few seconds until water level reaches back up. Also, some time this doesn't happen fast enough and boiler gets over filled because the auto feeder kicks in before all the water gets back into the boiler. Eventually, boiler gets overfilled after a few days of operation.
I noticed that once my boiler gets overfilled with water, it kind of masks the issue with low water cut-off being hit. However, now it short cycles because of pressuretrol being hit after certain pressure is reached in system.

Here are my questions (Info on any of these would help me):

I do not like the option 2 - i.e. using overfilled boiler - but I am not sure if there is any risk associated with using overfilled boiler. Could it cause boiler to explode?
I have good air vent (Hoffman 1A, 1/8" Adjustable Angle Steam Radiator Air Valve) installed with fastest vent setting on the radiator in the room with the thermostat. I think this vent opens up after a certain pressure builds in the system. Would it help if I install similar vent in other radiators as well to reduce the pressure in system?
What is my option to solve the issue with overly powerful boiler.


texts: It it doable to paste two sheets of fusuma paper on the same panel?

texts: I have a fusuma paper that is 180[cm] high, but my door (panel) is 250[cm] high. Is it doable to place two "sheets" of fusuma paper on one panel (without us noticing that there are two different sheets)? The idea is to cover the whole panel.


texts: Pull 7- or 8-conductor thermostat cable?

texts:
I've got 4-conductor cable now, but am looking to put in a smart thermostat (ecobee3). It requires a C wire, or the use of their adapter kit, so I'm thinking of just pulling new cable.

7-conductor is obviously cheaper than 8, but I also realize the cost difference is neglible in the long run. I've got single stage heat and cool, and a fan, so 4 wires have served well until now. I could maybe forsee adding a (de)humidifier in the future, but don't think I would ever install anything else (furnace and AC were replaced 2 years ago), rendering the extra wires redundant.

Will I be severely hampering upgrades in the future by only pulling 7 wires? The run looks to be maybe 25 feet, all in the attic.


texts: How can I mix tank and tankless hot water to feed my bathroom?

texts:
We are doing a master bathroom renovation and are considering adding a tankless hot water heater to supply just that bathroom. Our current 50 gallon hot water tank runs out after about 2.5 consecutive showers. The problem is we are on oil so we're limited to electric tankless water heaters which have limited GPM.
We will be moving our laundry into the master bathroom (there is already a supply line and 240V connection), we'll have a freestanding tub and a shower. I may be overthinking this and the laundry may be able to run on cold water alone (verifying with the manufacturer), but electric hot water heaters are pretty limited and it's unlikely we'd even be able to run the shower and tub at the same time from what I understand.
I'm wondering if there's a way for the on tankless heater to leverage hot water from the tank when it's unable to meet the GPM demands.

Are there any models that can take hot water effectively as a pass-through to augment hot water demands?
Alternatively could we feed the tankless heater into the hot water supply line?
Is there anything like a thermostatic mixing valve (but the opposite) that can use water from a secondary supply line if the main supply line (in this case the tankless heater) falls below a certain temperature?


texts: How can I cut this semi rigid aluminum duct for my dryer?

texts: I want to cut a piece of semi rigid aluminum dryer vent duct - though in doing so I will be cutting one of the ends off that goes either into the dryer or the wall outlet for the hose - the "lip" will be missing on one end - what to do?


texts: Screw stuck on backflow test cock - thoughts before replacing?

texts:
I was draining my backflow prevention device before a deep freeze. I removed the caps on the test cocks and got sprayed by a nice gusher of water from one... apparently the test cock has been open for years, and water completely contained by just the screw-on cap.
Anyways, the test cock is stuck in the open position, and opens/shuts via flathead screwdriver. A few attempts to turn it have just worn some of the slot away.
Any thoughts/tips on getting it to turn? I'm guessing I can just buy a replacement test cock, but was wondering if there were any suggestions I should go through first. The test cock looks similar to this one from amazon:


texts: What is the best way to remove and reuse wooden fence boards?

texts: I ask the question generally, but for my situation these are 6' tall and 7.5" wide boards with two nails each at top and bottom rails.   My access is on the front face (nail head side).


texts: how to attach framing to this window in concrete?

texts: I'm looking to finish my basement. I have several windows embedded in the concrete as shown in the picture below. I was planning to put framing up in front of the concrete and run some plywood all around the window frame with some concrete anchors drilled through the window frame. Is that right? What is the right way to attach wooden framing to the window frame pictured below?


texts: I have an old Amana Air Con unit that stopped working. The fan won't spin. The condenser kicks in. I can manually spin the fan and it goes like a champ. I have replaced the cap already. Any ideas or maybe a bad replacement cap?


texts: What are the pros and cons of UV window film?

texts:
I have just finished renovating my house and am now considering adding UV film to some of my windows (those that catch the most sun). On paper, they sound like a great solution as they reduce the heat entering the house and furniture fading but I have not had any experience with them. I would hate to see my house looking like those crappy cars with the window tint full of bubbles.

Does anyone have any practical experience with window tinting? Are they good? What issues do I need to be aware of?

I live in Melbourne (Aus) so summers hit 40 degrees but winters rarely drop below 5 degrees.

Followup:
We ended up getting film on a few windows just to see how it would go. On one glass door, we added a film the the minimum reflectivity and it does cut down the heat significantly without changing the night time view too much.

On our upstairs bedroom windows, we added privacy film. During daytime, these windows look like mirrors from the outside but remain clear(ish) from the inside. They add a strong blue tinge to the inside light. Once you hit twilight, the situation reverses and you get no view outside at all. The film also shows a subtle, oily sort of pattern all over it. We thought this would go away over time - it has not.

We had the film professionally installed. Even for a pro, it was a full day job. The cost was very reasonable, especially compared to the cost of the curtains.

Follow-up to the follow-up:
We have external awnings added to our house on some of the windows that did not have film. The awnings are pretty thick but you can still see through them. We have found the awnings to do a much better job that the film. We have just been through a summer with quite a few low 40s days (C). We have two windows on the same wall, 2 metres apart.  The door with the film still lets through a lot of heat whereas the window with the awning blocks most of the heat and still lets though enough light that we don't need to turn the lights on during the day.


texts: Removing rusted screw and wingnuts from toilet tank

texts:
My toilet tank is held in place by two screws, which have rusted so much that the shape in their head is almost completely disappeared.
On the opposite side, they are held in place by two wingnuts made from plastic. I tried to losen one of them with pliers, but that only ended up in one wing breaking off.

Main question is: what is the best way to get it off, given the wingnuts?

I'm aware of this other question, and this is the answer I like most, which suggest using a mechnaic's nut cracker, but I have a few follow-up questions to that:

Is there a way to remove the bolts without cutting/drilling/breaking them? (Not that I need them, I'm just afraid of damaging the tank or the bowl in the process.) E.g., I read somewhere else that WD-40 might be enough, but did anyone actually try this with success? Also, where would I put it: between the wingnuts and the toilet bowl? Or below the head of the bolt? (It would be quite difficult to get into both places...) Or maybe with some rust-solvent?
Can the wingnuts also be broken by the mechanic's nut cracker? (Obviously, plastic would be easier to break than metal, but the shape might not make it easy to access.)
Also, as far as I see, this is a tool mostly for car shops (as the name suggests), so I guess a plumber would use some other tool. Which one would it be?

The two rusty bolts inside the tank:

A wingnut:

EDIT: Proper name for wingnuts.

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the input. Yesterday I was able to remove one wingnut by gripping it really hard with pliers adjustable sized wrench. However, the screw itself is stuck, together with one gasket on the top, and one on the bottom.

The other one moved too a few turns, but it came to the point that now it is rotating together with the screw (and I could not find a way to stop the screw, because the head is so rusted).


texts: Replacing globe lights to candelabras and need to extend wire

texts: Im changing my globes to candelabras. I bought the extension sockets to replace the short ones to fit the candelabra but Im pretty sure the wires aren’t going to be long enough to stretch the length of my new sockets. Any ideas that aren’t too hard?


texts: How to replace the copper connector under the bathroom faucet

texts:
Trying to use the most accurate description: it's a copper connector or supply line that connects directly to the faucet that breaks with a huge hole. It leaks if I turn on the water.

photo 1 shows the faucet
photo 2 shows the underlying connection of the faucet and the copper connector
photo 3 shows the hole on the pipe

I searched and looks like epoxy is usually used for such situation - is that the only way? The hole is pretty big, also the line is very twisted, not sure if it affects water pressure even if I fixed the hole. I guess it would be great if I can replace it, but I didn't find anyway to detach it from faucet - the connection is deep and I don't have access to it.


texts: Is there any reason not to tile right over a freshly-laid block-and-beam subfloor?

texts:
The block-and-beam method of building subfloors is very popular in the UK:

Once the blocks are laid, typically a thin bed of mortar or concrete is troweled or poured on top to secure everything. I got to thinking: is there any reason why you couldn't instead install tile right over the bare blocks and beams, with the tile mortar squeezed into the cracks and serving the same purpose as the thin slab? Especially looking for input from Europeans familiar with this building method.


texts: What type of string lasts in strong UV and pool environment?

texts:
I need to use a string near or in a pool for one summer. It has to last strong summer heat (TX), sun, UV rays, and pool chlorine.
My chlorine dispenser float keeps going next to the skimmer area. Some people say high chlorine levels can damage pump and other equipment. So I thought of reeling it and attaching to the opposite side of the skimmer. The float will weigh much less than 4 lb. when in water but better safe than sorry.
Any suggestions?


texts: Is this smoke detector safely connected?

texts:
I recently bought this house (built in 2000), so it went through inspection. I assumed everything was fine. I realized the smoke detector in one of the rooms was not showing the green light that the others were showing. I pressed the "test" button and it beeped just like the others, so I thought it may be okay.

More recently I decided to actually take a look at it, and figured out the black wire is completely disconnected. Googling what that wire means gave me different results, but most of the results suggeste the detector would not be connected to the power, which would mean its battery would end very quickly, but I don't see the detector complaining about the battery (it's been a few months since we moved in).

Now I'm completely confused and have no idea if this is actually safe (especially since the home inspector was supposed to have checked this).

Am I safe? Would it be easy to fix this in case there's a problem? The other detectors in the house are not connected like this one.

Thanks!


texts: Bubble of air out of toilet when flushed

texts:
When I flush the toilet in the basement there is a big air bubble that comes up the toilet and it then drains slow; if anything else is running it almost overflows.
   The basement toilet was working fine for 30yrs; now all of the sudden this is happening.  Could there be a clog in the drain?????
  The basement toilet has a vent pipe in the wall.


texts: Replacing a toggle dimmer switch with a regular light switch

texts:
I am replacing a dimmer switch with a regular switch. The dimmer switch controlled a chandelier light that I just replaced with a ceiling fan. There is also another switch that controlled the light, it is not a dimmer, it is a regular type.

Do I need a three way switch, and how do I wire it up?


texts: Can I increase the "constant on" speed of my air handler?

texts:
I have an American Standard TWE049E13CB air handler with a variable speed blower. The manual has a chart to adjust the dip switches for fan speeds for cooling, heating, fan off delay, and auxilary heat. I don't see anything to adjust the speed when the thermostat is set to fan always on.

In my two story home, even with additional attic insulation, it gets stuffy in the middle of the night. I estimate the fan runs at 30%-50% full speed when it is not cooling. Is there a way too increase the fan speed when the system is only circulating air and not cooling.


texts:
Based on this site:

https://nest.com/support/article/Learn-more-about-the-Nest-Learning-Thermostat-and-multi-speed-fans

It looks like nest recently added support for multi-speed fan control for some furnaces.

I'm looking to buy a new furnace (mine is old and past its life), but really like using the nest thermostat. It's the first thermostat I've ever used that I actually like. I would like to be able to control as much of the new furnace's features with the nest as possible.

My understanding is that sticking with Nest means I can't use "modulating" or "variable speed" furnaces. However, I think I should be ok with a 2 stage multi speed furnace. 95% efficiency is obviously not as ideal as 98%, but I think I can live with it if it comes with substantial UX benefits.

However, I don't seem (for the life of me) to be able to find any info on what multi-speed furnaces are actually compatible with nest control. In other words, what furnace models use 2 thermostat wires for fan speed control?

Do any of you guys have an info?


texts: What to do when the cold water valve on the water heater is welded on?

texts: Our hot water seems to be running out faster than usual, and thanks to this site, we were guessing that we probably have a broken dip tube in our gas water heater. Unfortunately, someone in the past welded the cold water valve on. Is there any way to access the dip tube without a welding torch?


texts: I want to add a gable fan in my garage to help cool it and help to let out the humidity in the winter. My garage doesn't have a high peak, so there is about 24" of height at the peak on the gable and about 12" between the 2x4 vertical supports. It would seem that I would need to cut out a support in order to fit in a fan. Is this correct and what is the proper way to support the roof if a 2x4 needs to be removed in order to fit in the fan? Would it make more sense to do a roof mounted fan instead?


texts: How do I properly support the header when expanding a door opening?

texts:
I'm opening up a closet in our 1958 home.

I believe (I plan to get confirmation from a licensed contractor or engineer) that this is not a load bearing wall considering that the opening runs parallel to the joists in the attic above, the wall is an interior wall for a bedroom behind, and considering the way this was installed (both sides of header not resting on a support).

I'd like to remove the left side of the closet opening to get as close to the exterior wall (masonry) as possible.  I plan to keep the 2x4 headers in place just because it will be a whole lot less work for me.  I am wondering if I should install a framing bracket of some sort to provide support to the 2x4 headers that will no longer have the 2x4 vertical support.

2:


texts: I understand that unmodified thin-set mortar is typically 25-35% portland with most of the balance being a fine sand.  If I wanted to make my own where could I obtain this fine sand?  What is it called and how is it graded?


texts: Do these pictures suggest mold is growing behind walls?

texts:
Seeking advise on mold.

This wall isn’t hard, feels kind of soft to knock.  Do u know what material it is and can mold hi through it?

You can see in the pics I peeled it and it just revealed more mold.  From the pics can u tell if this suggests the mold is growing behind the walls?

I cleaned the area with vinegar and covered it in foil paper.  It seems the covering reduced the mold smell.  If so would this suggest it is coming through the walls? Note I could be wrong about this as the vinegar may be masking the mold smell but if u can answer I’ll know the situation when the vinegar dissipates.

Thanks.

Guys, just to add should I keep peeling them if it shows more and more mold?


texts: tracking down sewer gas smell in bedroom

texts:
Ever since moving into our new house roughly a month ago, there's been a distinctive (but not overpowering) sewer gas smell in one of our bedrooms. Some information that may be pertinent:

House was built in the 1920s.
We had an exterminator come to the house, to rule out that we were mistaking a dead animal smell for a sewer gas smell. Exterminator doesn't think it's a dead animal.
The smell is truly only in this one bedroom. It's a second floor bedroom, sharing one wall with the master bathroom, one wall with another bedroom, its floor with the dining room, and its ceiling with the attic. The smell is not in the master bathroom, nor in the attic. Occasionally we think we catch a faint whiff elsewhere in the house, but we could easily be imagining that.
We are able to get into the wall between the smelly bedroom and the master bath (there's an access panel for the whirlpool tub), and as far as we can tell the smell isn't there.
The strength of the smell is such that you can mostly get rid of it by airing the room out, but if you close the door and windows it comes right back in not too much time.

We initially suspected a problem with the vent pipe (even though that's not supported by the smell being neither in the adjacent bathroom nor the wall). We've talked to a few plumbers and didn't really get anywhere. Plumber #1 refused to do a peppermint test because they didn't want to get anywhere near our sloping slate roof, but had no other ideas. Plumber #2 did pour a couple of bottles of peppermint extract down the master bathroom sink and tub drains; not clear to me whether this would be as effective as putting the peppermint down the vent (presumably it's much diluted this way?), but in any event we didn't detect any peppermint in the bedroom. Plumbers #3 and #4 we only spoke with on the phone, but (given what we described about the location of the smell) they were skeptical that it was plumbing.

So: how to proceed?

First of all, if it's not plumbing or an animal problem, is there anything else it could be, that we've been overlooking?

Otherwise, operating on the assumption that it's a plumbing issue, what to do next? Plumber #2 says they're able to do a smoke test, but I'm not sure I trust them, given that their idea of the peppermint test was to have the same person who handled the peppermint extract also smell around for the peppermint. Are there any other simpler possibilities that we ought to be chasing down before we start laying down bigger $$ for more serious diagnostic work?


texts: Wiring for a bathroom, bedroom and a bathroom exhaust fan all together

texts:
I need some help with wiring plz. I live in the USA. Here are three pics of the setup i want to do.
First one is a bathroom Fan wiring. It has 2 green wires, black and grey as shown below:

The next one is for the bathroom light that was in there previously:

The last one is from a bedroom that was hooked up along with the bathroom light (yes, i know its wrong but it was setup in the 1950's and right now i dont care:

I hooked up the 3 whites together, 3 blacks together, 2 greens and 2 cooper together like it was setup as it was for the light that was previously in my bathroom. That way worked fine for bathroom had it's light switch and the bedroom had it own switch and those work fine.
Now when I hook up it the same way with all the blacks together, all whites together, all coopers and greens together and i switch the breaker back on the fan goes on when both light switches are off. The fan stays on all the time.
Can someone tell the correct setup so the fan will go on when the bathroom light switch is in the on position. Hope this makes some sense.
PPPLLLEEEAAASSEE help me. TIA
Edit: I am pretty sure there should be 2 separate junction boxes with romex cabling used throughout the house but i am pretty sure my house has knob and tube wiring and i am not about to rewire all my house since it was built in the 50's.
Edit 2: Or can I place the wires from one knob and tube cable into a junction box combined with one end of a romex cable and run the other end of the romex cable to another junction box and combine that with my second knob and tube. In first junction box hook up the black to black, white to white/gray and cooper to 2 greens together.  On the second junction box combine the blacks from romex and knob and tube, the romex white to the knob and tube white/grey and then it will work correctly? Plz let me know.
TIA


texts: How can switched outlet work without connected secondary hot wire?

texts:
We just moved into a house where I am replacing outlets and switches, and I can't figure this one switched outlet out. I am trying to control the top half of the receptacle with the switch. When the red wire is not connected to the switch (like it is in the attached picture) both parts of the outlet are on. How is it possible? Yet, when I do connect the red wire to the switch, the switch starts controlling not just that particular outlet, but all outlets in the same room and even some one floor down. What am I doing wrong? The hot wire is the one marked with a transparent tape in the picture with the switch.
I know I should have paid attention to how all the wires were connected before I disconnected them, but it is too late now.


texts: How can I get High-CRI lighting for a small room?

texts:
I plan to replace a CFL lighting fixture in a small room (10' x 15'), due to its being too dim and giving less-than-perfect light.

I'd like to install something that would give me 3500K light with color rendering index (CRI) ≥ 85.

My options are seemingly halogen and LED. I'm OK with replacing the fixture, adding transformers, etc.

Halogen bulbs I encounter seem to have low power efficiency, below 20 lm/W (example). This means lots of heat, which I would rather avoid.
LED bulbs I encounter usually have CRI of 80 or worse (example), which I would rather improve on.

What am I missing?

UPDATE: A cheap and relatively nice solution I ended up with is having several CFLs with various color temperatures, from 2700 to 5000.

I understand that my "3500K" requirement was due to misunderstanding.

Update Feb 2020: By now, high-CRI LEDs are not hard to come by, for any reasonable color temperature. My current setup with 3200K and 5000K srtips with independent dimmers proved to reproduce colors in a way which is hard to tell from natural sunlight.


texts: How to examine if there is termite damage in a ceiling or floor using a boroscope

texts:
Just treated for termites as they were coming up through the floorboards by the back door, and I wanted to check the existing wood since I've noticed some sagging floorboards.
I can cut into the drywall ceilings or I can use a boroscope.  When using the boroscope, what should I be looking for in terms of damage, since I wouldn't be able to prod the beams or wood with a stick or awl.


texts: Plastic electrical cut-in boxes with 3/8s tabs

texts:
Most plastic home improvement store electrical, single gang cut-in boxes seem to have little plastic tabs / bumps which if used, will set the box 3/8s inch off the studs. We are doing 1/2" drywall on the walls for sure (except on firewall of course). Most of the boxes are already nailed to the walls at the 3/8s" mark.
Our electrician is doing all the work on this house, minus placing the boxes. Is it considered rather shady / done wrong, if I'm 1/8" short of the drywall vs. level with it? In the past, i've done mostly remodel work and I don't generally move boxes. But, when I do, I've tried to get it close. To be honest, on a remodel I pay less attention to how perfect it is. This is my first 100% new construction and I find myself caring more. Is it a big deal or am I stressing about nothing?
I understand that adjusting the receptacle out is no big deal so long as the drywall is cut close to the box. The receptacle tabs should be firm on the drywall and everything should be tight. If this was a professional job, would they care and make someone re-mount these boxes? Or is this typical?


texts: Electric installation - find connected corrugated pipes

texts:
We are moving to a new flat. This flat has many empty sockets in the walls. These sockets are connected using empty corrugated pipes, so one can put additional cables through them.

I want to use these empty sockets/pipes to put CAT 7a cables into the wall, with CAT 6a outlets in every room.

My question is: How do I find out from where to where those empty pipes go?

I already tried two things:

I tried to push a cable through them, and check where it comes out of the wall. This worked for some connections, but for many the cable gets stuck and I cannot find the other end of the pipe.
I also tried to put a thread with a bit of paper on it into the pipes, and suck them out somewhere else with a vacuum cleaner. This also worked for some connections, but I need to check every other pipe end in the flat to find the correct one. And it makes a lot of noise (the pipes resonate).

I thought of pumping some sort of smoke into a pipe using a compressor, and look where it comes out, but I have neither a compressor nor means to produce smoke in a safe way.

Any other ideas?

Edit: Here is a picture of one of the sockets, with the CAT 7a cables already put through them:


texts: Ceiling drywall nail rusted (new construction)

texts: What would cause a nail to be rusted like this in the drywall ceiling of a new home (built 2019)? Is there anything specific I should request our builder to repair other than just painting over the nail again?


texts: Is it possible to change the existing light switch In the bedroom to a dual switch and then run the power cables to the loft and install a double socket up there?


texts: The external wall of my house is a double-thickness solid brick wall (i.e. about 210mm thick consisting of 100mm brick, 10mm mortar down the middle, then another 100mm brick).  I need to cut a new opening in this wall.  I've already removed some bricks to insert a lintel (or rather a pair of lintels, one on the inside and one on the outside), but removing the bricks by cutting the mortar out around them was very labour-intensive.  Is there an easy way to cut through a wall of this thickness with a straight vertical cut without spending a fortune on tools?


texts:
I am thinking about extending my existing deck, 10 ft wide by 18 ft long and replacing the deck boards with composite decking.   I would like to know how far can I extend the deck width without adding another beam at the end of the joists?

Currently, the 10 ft joists are connected to a ledger on one end, while the other ends are set on a beam supported by 4 posts.  How far can the joists be extended (cantilevered) past the beam, 3ft, 4ft?

If the joists can be cantilevered, can I extend the existing 10 ft joists with another 2x8? Or, do I have to replace all the joists with new 2x8's of a length equal to the deck width?

Thank you.


texts:
new DIY’er here. I started on my first project to finish the walls of my garage(2 side walls). I hope I can pull this off(half way thru so yay).
Okay so here is my question:
I have got a 4x8 drywall that I need to cut to make 2 4x4 pieces and I took a utility knife and made a score, but when I try to snap it, it doesn’t. This is my first time cutting a drywall. So I am not sure if I am not applying enough pressure, or did not score it deep enough or something else. I watched so many youtube videos on this and no where on one talks about the depth of scoring, so I am assuming I am not doing something right(my position, drywall position, enough pressure etc.)
One last thing I can possible try is put the board face down, put one foot on one side and lift up the other side to snap it, can I do that or will I damage the drywall.


texts: I have a bathroom with two lights and a fan. I want to place both lights on a double switch and use the space to add a gfi where the other light switch was. All the wires are black.  How do  I do that?


texts: How to calculate CFM/pressure needed to move water vapor through duct?

texts:
I made a cheap, high capacity humidifier from a mist maker, storage crate, and 120mm fan (the fan blows into the crate, which pushes the mist out). This 4" flex pipe works fine to exhaust the mist when it is at this fully contracted state.

But humidifying one room isn't really why I made this: I wanted to be able to put it near the return air vent and humidify the entire townhouse. Unfortunately that vent is in the loft with no water access, so I've tried to connect 2 of these 8' ducts together to get up there and over to the vent. But when I do this, the vapor flow at the end is pretty weak, not nearly enough to humidify the whole townhouse. The vapor is condensing in the duct and falling back into the tank. I figure that if the fan had more static pressure it would be able to push the vapor fast enough to prevent it condensing. But I'm also trying to keep it fairly quiet, so I don't want to stick a big honking duct booster fan on there without knowing how powerful it needs to be. How do I calculate that?


texts: Why do some table saws have a direct and a reverse ruler on the fence?

texts:
For example, in the ruler, the bottom row goes from 0 to 31 cm from left to right and the upper row goes from 32 upwards from right to left?

EDIT: Here is the manual for the tablesaw pictured above. There is no mention of that scale, and it the drawings it looks like it should be a cm/inches scale.

EDIT2: I had e-mailed the manufacturer about it (Bosch), and they told me to contact an authorized repair store about the matter!? So even the manufacturer have no idea what it is supposed to be.


texts: Protecting the tops of deck joists - or not?

texts:
There appears to be a school of thought in deck building that it is worthwhile to protect the tops of joists by covering them with a waterproof barrier. That way any moisture can't sit on the top of the joists, soak in, and gradually cause rot or premature failure in pressure treated wood.

(Here's Matt Risinger's example of this).

However I've also read the viewpoint that while this practice may protect the joists it can also increase drying times for the deck boards. Assuming the decking is wood this seems like a significant risk.

I would imagine that the value of this is highly dependent on climate, the wetness of the site, solar exposure, etc. But I'm assuming the site is wet or else this wouldn't seem to matter one way or the other.

Also, though a cynical point of view is that this idea is driven by product company marketing strategy; but that itself doesn't mean it has no merit.

Is there yet any industry consensus on practices in this area? For example: building codes, studies being done as decks have aged, etc.? I'm open to global perspectives although I'm in the US myself.


texts: 12 gauge on 30 amp circuit - after thermostat

texts: I have 2 2500 watt baseboard heaters that I'm planning on running off of a 30a 240v breaker. My question is, because the thermostat is close to the panel, can I run the 10/2 JUST to the thermostat, then run 12/2 to each heater individually?


texts:
This is my first winter in this home, just moved in this past July. So I get my electric bill and it's been running more than usual every since I moved in here. It wasn't too much more so I just paid it and brushed it off. Well this past month it was $456!! I've never had a bill higher than $125! I had noticed something just didn't seem "right" with heat pump/furnace/thermostat, one or a combo of the three.
The wall thermostat displays room temp and the set temp. So when I turn heat up the room temp # goes down (gets colder) and because of this my furnace constantly runs because room temp never goes up to set temp. When I turn set temp down to kick heat off the room temp # goes up (gets warmer).
So does anyone know, does this sound like I need a new thermostat?


texts: Is there a state mandated cap for electricity use in Spain?

texts: My dad tells me that the (recently remodeled) house he's staying in in Valencia shuts off the electrical service if he's using the cooktop and the heater at the same time.  This is very unusual in terms of what I'm familiar with.  Is there anyone who can say whether this is a policy issue or a wiring issue.  He says it seems to be a state mandated cap on usage, but I'm skeptical.


texts:
I have built float tanks before with wood and fibreglass.
Now I'm living in another country and want to have a tank again, the option I want to build is like the zen float tank.
So I want to know if is possible to build the structure with galvanized tubes?
(I think the float tent has stainless steel)
will this kind of joints will hold?
how are they securing the structure? this needs to be super strong as it will be holding more than a ton of water...
Here link showing float tank design, footprint, etc...
page with info
Tank footprint
Now my question is, can I use just galvanized tubing? do I need to solder some parts? (hopefully easy to disassemble as I'm renting).


texts: The paint is peeling in my bathroom. I would like to repaint it. I assume I scrape as much of the peeling paint off as I can before painting. Should I sand it smooth before painting? I have never painted a ceiling before, so any advice is welcome!


texts: Are receptacle surge protectors a practical solution?

texts:
After mounting my television on the wall, I would like to put a receptacle behind it so the power cord will be hidden.  While planning this I was trying to figure how to get a surge protector to be hidden behind the TV as well, then I came across a surge protection receptacle.

Has anybody used these before?  Are they worth the price?  Will I get acceptable surge protection from one of these?

They seem like a great idea if they actually work, I can't believe I have not seen these before.

EDIT:

An article from the Family Handyman says this about knowing when to replace the receptacle.

  Some types of surge protection receptacles (available at electrical supply houses and online retailers) have a signal to alert you when they’re no longer providing surge protection and need to be replaced (surge suppressors do wear out).

So I guess that's one thing to look for before buying one.


texts: Why does my Whirlpool washing machine's lower agitator rotate, but the auger does not?

texts:
I've got a Whirlpool washing machine that has started giving me some problems. Recently when I run a load through the wash, I can see the agitator turning, but the upper auger doesn't turn... it's as though it's not catching when the agitator rotates.

What could be causing this?


texts: PVC conduit, service line with siding offset

texts:
I am updating our service line and moving it to another part of our home, as per request of the energy supplier.  I have installed the new panel and meter socket. However I am unsure how to run the pvc conduit up the side of our home.

The house has an offset line in the siding of three inches in between the first and second story.  Should I cu a groove in the siding on the second story, or use offset fittings?  Or is there another solution?


texts: How do I take down my kitchen ceiling to expose my roof above?

texts: I want to take down the ceiling above my kitchen to expose the roof above, but I need to know if I should leave some of the joists in place for support of the side walls they are laying on.


texts:
I'm in the process of building the storage area under the stair case. Since I'm already having 15 sheets of 18mm full size plywood each 4'×8' in size, I'm framing the entire project using only this material. Only the door rail and it's suspension race are of the aluminium.

Since I want to have wall-like finish with all screws are invisible, I'm thinking if it is possible to skim the plywood surface with stopping compound.

Is this a good idea? Will it stick or flake off after sometime? I'm living in Malaysia and here the climate is constant thru the year. Thus wood expansion and contraction will not be the problem.


texts: Coupling two 15 Amp circuit breaker for 20 Amp

texts: My Bosch micro/oven need 120 volt 20 Amp receptacle. I do not have a 20 Amp circuit breaker for this purpose. Can I couple two separate 15 Amp breakers as a dedicated source to provide higher Amperage limit (20 Amp)? Theoretically this will increase wire cross-section area for a higher Amp. limit. Is it permissible by code?


texts: How to connect a earth leakage detection GFCI/ELCB?

texts:
My specifications are as follows:

2 in phase 120V lines
1 Neutral
1 Ground

So, I should use a 240V GFCI, right ?

This is the one I plan to use: Heavy Duty - High Power GFCIs part no- 23250 003-1 GFCI

So, connections would be connecting one 120V line to the line wire on gfci, 2nd line wire to the second line wire on GFCI and neutral to neutral and ground to ground.

IS that correct ? Or, am I going wrong anywhere ?


texts: I have a house full of wooden windows with some old flaking paint. The wood is quite solid, the glass is intact and not fogging. I was planning on scraping the windows and repainting them. My question is, should I seal the wood, then prime and paint, or are some of these steps unnecessary.


texts: Bringing aerial cable into an existing PVC Conduit Body

texts:
I have an existing exterior conduit entering my house, carrying low voltage (CAT6, Coax) wires from our detached garage to my inside equipment room. I need to bring a new fiber-optic cable (for fiber internet) into the same equipment room in the same location where this conduit terminates. My goal here is to avoid having to drill additional holes in the side of the house to bring the cable inside, and see if I can somehow tap into the existing conduit body on the exterior.

Since the conduit contains existing wires, I can't just replace the conduit body with one that has an extra connector. Is there some type of conduit body extension that would bolt in between the existing body and the lid and provide for another ingress point into the conduit? If so, what is it called?

Inside the house, the conduit goes into a junction box, before continuing through flexible interior conduit to the final destination. Worse case, I could drill the wire through next to the conduit body and I still should be able to get it into the junction box to get into the interior conduit for the final segment.


texts:
Under our patio, we have a fan and a security light. The fan and the security light are the same light switch, so they are both on, or both off. The only way to run the fan without the security light is to remove the bulbs from the security light, which is highly inconvenient.

By the door, there is a switch for the fan/light, and a three-way switch that controls the dining room light. I’d like to do one of these options:

Replace the dining room light’s other switch by the hallway with a single pole switch and make the dining room light be controllable only from there, then have two single-pole switches by the door to control the fan and security light independently.
Replace the security light’s switch with one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/100356887… and have one be the fan, and one be the security light, and leave the dining room light alone.

I fished a romex cable from the security light’s box to the box by the door (about 3 feet), which I’m guessing will end up being the hardest part of this project. I can connect the fan’s cables to the other end of this cable in the security light’s box.

I suspect this is simple, but the way the three-way switch is wired confuses me a little. How would I go about wiring the switches for these options? I think I ultimately would want to go with whichever option ends up with the least number of connections in the box. I have here a picture of the setup and options, as well as a picture inside the box.

Edit: Going with option 2

So for the wiring portion, I would then do the following (just laying out the steps here):

Get the dual switch (I have this one already: https://www.homedepot.com/p/100356887)
In the switch box, wire the bottom of the dual switch the same as the current single switch is wired now
In the switch box, connect the new cable's white and black wire to the the top of the dual switch
In the switch box, connect all grounds together
In the security light box, connect all white wires together (both the old an new cable, and the security light)
In the security light box, connect all grounds together
In the security light box, connect the black wire for the security light and the black wire on the old cable together
In the security light box, connect the black wire for the cable to the fan and the black wire on the new cable together

Does that seem correct as far as the wiring?


texts: new construction wiring a mid-line receptacle to a switch

texts: how do you wire a mid-receptacle to a switch? I have 3 receptacles running with a switch to the mid receptacle.


texts:
If the top bracket in the image here came out and didn’t go back in, would it be a safety issue to turn the circuit back on? There was no wire connected to the screw/bracket — it seemed to just be holding those two bundles of wire against the back.....
We can’t get an electrician for a few days and I’m nervous. The house is from 1962 and this (I think) is original.


texts: Dimmer switch shorted/fried during installation, is it still safe to use?

texts:
relative newbie here.

I was upgrading a light fixture and at the same time installing a dimmer switch. I accidentally purchased a 3-way switch instead of the required 2-way switch and my "helper" removed the "insulating sticker" that covers the pole used for the 3-way switch and I didn't notice.

I installed it, flipped the breaker back on and went to test out the light. When I did, I could almost immediately smell a faint burning smell (really bad smell). I went back, turned off the breaker, and pulled the switch back out. The extra pole had come in contact with the box.

I took it out, replaced the "insulating sticker" and screwed the pole in so it isn't sticking out.

Some questions.

Is what I've done safe?
Is that insulating sticker really the protection against something bad?
Shouldn't the breaker have tripped if a "hot" pole came in contact with the grounded box?
My wife can still smell the foul smell - does that smell linger or do I have a bigger problem?

Help!


texts: What are the two pipes coming out of the back of my outside air conditioner?

texts: On the back of my air conditioner there are two pipes: One is covered with insulation and one is bare pipe.  What is the purpose of these pipes?


texts: Mesh tape between wall and concrete substrate

texts:
My basement bathroom has a concrete floor substrate, on which I will be installing and also have a baseboard of stone tile. Some of the wall meeting the floor will be tile (currently cementboard)

and some regular drywall but even the drywall will have tile baseboard.

Should I tape and thinset the corner where the wall currently meets the concrete substrate and should I do it for both the drywall as well as the cementboard, because of the tile baseboard?


texts: I was considering buying a cheap mini-split AC unit to cool a small room (10ftx10ft) over the summer now that we spend more time working from home. There are several units on the market. However I'd like to mount the two parts of the system pretty much back to back, one on the outside wall, the other on the corresponding inside wall, about 8-10 inch apart (I just have to check how thick is the stucco etc). However I read there is a 10ft minimum distance between the two units, and this would complicate the job a whole lot. What is the reason for a minimum distance? Too much final pressure of the pre-charged gas comes to mind perhaps?


texts: Does anybody know how to put this (https://www.us.kohler.com/us//productDetail/screw/626005.htm?skuId=589148) set screw into a Stillness Kohler shower handle (https://www.us.kohler.com/us/stillness-rite-temp-valve-trim-with-lever-handle/productDetail/handle-trim/1270658.htm?skuId=1270570&brandId=empty&)?  I can't figure out the right hex key to make it work. It seems like a 2.5mm is too big, and a 2mm is too small. Do they make 2.25mm hex keys? Or is it perhaps a proprietary Kohler tool that I'm missing?


texts: HVAC is suddenly blowing room temperature air—compressor, fan still turn on

texts:
I intend to call a repair person, but I just want to make I've exhausted possibilities that don't involve messing with the refrigerant lines. The A/C was working yesterday with no problems (outdoor temp in the upper 90s), but today it started blowing room temperature air from the vents during the day (~85°F inside, outdoors again in the upper 90s), and same thing at night (~85°F inside when exterior temp was 70°F).

Outdoor condenser fan is operational
Thermostat is set to "Cool" and "Auto" fan (and there is no heat pump)
Outside unit is clean, free of debris, manufactured in 2004 (Duncan)
Indoor filter is pretty clean; no obvious air flow problems inside
Compressor turns on and heats up to an exterior temperature of ~130°F (perhaps hotter, it had not been on too long before I checked)
The larger, low-pressure, insulated line is very hot by the compressor (nearest 6 inches of pipes was ~115°F) and ambient temperature about 1 foot away from the compressor (~90°F); the smaller, high pressure line was also hot
There are no visible signs of leaking refrigerant; none of the pipes are cool, let alone freezing

Mostly I'm just surprised that it broke so suddenly, though everything I checked seems to be working. Any common wiring issues that are consistent with these symptoms? Or can bad compressors exhibit these symptoms?


texts: Why does a cordless circular saw have the blade on the left?

texts:
At the moment considering the purchase of a circular saw for light work. I'm looking at a corded model and a cordless model. But the question I have is not about which one is better.

My question today is why the corded one has the blade on the right of my hand and the cordless one has the blade on the left of my hand. See both models below.

Now, I know some manufacturers make left- and right-handed versions of their circular saw. And I'm also aware that 'worm drive circular saws' usually have the blade to the left of my hand. But it seems odd to me. Especially as it seems to apply to most manufacturers too.

Was wondering if somebody has an explanation for this.


texts: How safe are shower rennovations like Bath Fitter? What about mold behind the tile and wall?

texts:
We're wanting to just get a clean stand-up shower in our master, and have had multiple quotes for a gut and replace. Along with these, we've also got a quote from Bath Fitter to do a wrap for about 50% the cost of a full blown renovation (about $4,000 vs $8,000+).

We don't really care what it looks like, as long as it's clean. Our primary concern is mold behind the tiles (floor and walls) -- my understanding is they just put a wrap on the current shower. What happens to the mold in the title and behind the wall?


texts: How long should I wait to drill holes into brand new mortar?

texts:
I just repaired loose bricks on my house in preparation to install new window shutters. When would it be ok to drill holes into the mortar and install the shutters? From my other research I'm going to keep the mortar covered and re-wet it a few times a day for 3 days. Is it safe after that?
Additional information: I completely removed all the old mortar and put in all new mortar for about 11 bricks. It's standard Quickcrete mortar from Lowe's. I made the shutters myself from pine boards. But they are comparable in weight to the composite shutters that were installed previously using the same mounting method. (concrete anchor into the mortar)


texts: Transfer switch worked but only to half the house, used to work fine. Any ideas? Thanks

texts: We have a generac 20k generator and auto transfer switch. It has worked well for 3 years, but now when the power goes out it only switches over half the house. Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be very appreciated.


texts: Would a sledgehammer be okay to break up limestone?

texts: I would be working in an enclosed environment so I don’t want anything too bulky and preferably handheld that’s why I wanted to go with a sledgehammer as you can probably tell I’m new to all this stuff so please be gentle, if the sledgehammer idea wouldn’t work what would be the ideal tool for breaking up limestone?


texts:
Looking to replace a bathroom vent fan in a property that is being renovated. The exhaust fan was not working, upon further inspection it seems to be the motor that is causing the issue.
I want to replace it, but I am not used to seeing bathroom fans that vent out like this. The hole is a circle, not a square, and has one long duct going straight up and out of the roof. The entire fan housing is small and sits in the middle of the duct opening and held in place by two screws on each side. I'm having trouble finding a replacement for this, and cannot find a model number on the motor.
Attached are the photos of the duct and the entire fan.
If possible, it would be great to find a replacement fan/motor unit for this, but that is proving difficult.


texts: Practicality of adding 3-phase power to residence?

texts:
How practical is it to add 3-phase power to a residence (assuming that the street has 3-phase on the poles)?

In my case I would be using it only for occasional use, such as for some heavy duty machine tools in a basement, and maybe a motor for a large gate or door.

Will it be prohibitively expensive, or on the same order as the costs for normal 240V 2-phase power? Will power companies typically unite the bills, or can I expect to have to pay two different bills, one for the 240V and one for the 3-phase?


texts: Goodman furnance Air pressure switch - faulty?

texts:
I have at least a 10 year old Goodman gas Furnance.  The past couple of days the burner and blower did not come on.  I do not see any indicator lights come on.  The inducer comes on, but nothing else. I took the air pressure switch out and blew air into it and the air hose. I reinstalled the switch and everything worked fine.  I've done this twice in two or three days.

My question is - does this seem like a faulty air pressure switch or is it an indication of a bigger problem?  I can easily buy and swap out the switch which would tell me the answer, but before spending $25 on the switch - I thought I'd ask here.

Thanks


texts: Is this a valid way to add an electrical outlet?

texts:
I've got a feed from my electrical panel in the garage to a single outlet inside the house (for the entertainment center).  This was installed by an electrician back in 2009.  Through the garage, the wires run through conduit until it reaches a wall where it punches through and continues via romex under the house in the crawlspace.  I've moved the entertainment center and want to branch that feed to serve both the existing outlet (now unused) and a new one near where the entertainment center now sits.

I'm wondering if I'm able to simply wire nut a 2nd length of romex onto the existing junction where the conduit meets up with the romex.  This would result in a Y at that point, with one part of the Y going to the existing outlet, and the other part going to the new outlet.

I'm not sure if this is acceptable practice or if it would meet code.  Most examples of wiring I've seen have the outlets run in a single string rather than branched.  If it's not valid, is my only good option running a new line from the existing outlet to where the new one wants to be?


texts: Any way to determine capacity of old washer/dryer?

texts:
My parents have a Whirlpool washer (model LA7000XS) and dryer (model LE7080XSW0) from 1987.  They want to replace them, but want to make sure the capacities of the new washer and dryer are at least as large as the Whirlpool ones.

They still have the manuals for the Whirlpool washer and dryer, but the manuals don't mention the capacity at all.  Neither do any of the stickers in the machines.  Is there any way to find out what their capacity is?


texts:
I know that building codes vary by jurisdiction so for the purposes of this question I am in Baltimore County, MD.

We have a split joist in our basement. It's a 2x8, about 10 feet long. One side is in a joist hanger, the other side is resting on top of a steel beam. I had a local builder come out and give an estimate which ended up being ~$2500.

Most of what I have seen online suggests using a bottle jack to slowly raise the joist to close the crack, and then sister in another 2x8 (or 2?) to the cracked one, sprinkle generously with glue, and nail them together. I asked the estimator if this was the process that would be used and he said that it was not code and that they would be cutting out and removing the split joist and replacing it altogether. They would also have to pull up carpet in the room above to secure the sheathing.

Am I getting fleeced? Is sistering another 2x8 not code? I want it done correctly but I got a bit of sticker shock at the cost.

Edit: Here's a picture. Center is the crack, left is one end of the joist, right is the other end:

Edit: Here is another picture of the metal clips:


texts:
I am planning to finish the basement and have some questions regarding the plumbing.

The builder already have the bathroom rough in but the location is at middle of the basement. I want to have the bathroom located in a corner. This rough in vent is the only one that I believe that I can use, unless I go with "wet vent" method.

Unfortunately this pipe is about 20 feet to the corner. So my question is: is it OK to extend this pipe 20 feet horizontally the connect it to bathroom toilet, shower and sink?

I am also planning to move the laundry room to the basement. In order to use the vent pipe, the branch to the laundry will have to go up to the ceiling first, the go down. Is it OK?

| vent
|      |---------------------------------+
+------|                                 |-> laundry
+ -----------+
             |
             |----------> bathroom


texts: When machining a hole, what is the order of operations?

texts: I need to drill a threaded, countersunk hole in a piece of material. After drilling, should I use the tap, or the countersink bit first? Does it make a difference? Does it depend on the material?


texts: Can I suspend garage storage from the ceiling alone?

texts:
I am planning to build garage overhead storage using 2x4 similar to this.

My questions are:

Do they need to have one side support from side wall or can I have them both side attached to ceiling
What kind of screw should I use to connect lumber to lumber, for ceiling one I be using 1/4 3 inches lag


texts: Checking my understanding - How to add C-wires for smart thermostat install x3

texts:
I'm in the process of installing some smart thermostats (Nest Thermostat E) to replace my old ones. I have a boiler radiator heating system with three zones. Two zones are straightforward heat only (main floor and basement). The third zone (upstairs) also controls AC and uses an air controller for forced air. The air actually blows over a radiator coil (I think this is the right term?) to supply the heat in this zone. In other words, there are no traditional radiators upstairs, just the forced air system blowing air over this radiator coil inside the ductwork.

I want to replace all three thermostats with Nests. None of the current thermostats are using a C wire. I understand it's not strictly necessary to have a C wire for the Nests, but they will function better if they have one. I'd like to wire them with C-wires and I think it's doable with my system. After studying up on all of this and researching what I have, I think I understand what I need to do, but I want to double-check and see if anyone can point out anything I'm overlooking or not understanding correctly.

Background

Here is the diagram I put together trying to map out how everything connects together in the current state. A few notes:
Bottom left transformer, the boiler (controlled by Hydrostat 3200-Plus), and the three zone values are all in the basement.
The bottom right transformer and the air controller unit are in an upstairs closet.
"Air Controller #1" and "Air Controller #2" are both components that are located inside of my air controller unit. One seems to be controlled by the W1 wire from the thermostat, and the other from the G wire from the thermostat. So it seems like the W1 wire triggers the boiler as well as the air controller. I'm not sure why the G wire doesn't just power the air controller in the event of both calls for heating and cooling though?
I didn't see any labels for the bottom right transformer, but I'm assuming what makes sense is that the red wiring coming off the transforming is the "hot" (R) and the green wire coming off is the "neutral" (C). That seems to make the rest of the diagram wiring make sense in my mind at least. FYI this transformer is a Supco T45.

Adding C-wire

I think what I need to do is:

For main floor and basement zones, make a connection between C coming off of the transformer (bottom left, where green wire meets the two orange wires) and an unused wire in both of the wires going to the main floor and basement thermostats. There are spare wires to be used in these.
For the upstairs zone, make a connection between the splice that joins the 5 wires (4 red, 1 green coming off the transformer) which is located in the air controller, and the thermostat. There's no extra wires available going to the thermostat, but it'll be easy to add something here since they are close. Again, looking for confirmation that this 5-wire splice is where my "C wire" should originate from.

Does this seem like the correct interpretation and approach to take?

Other Questions

Should I worry about the number of items on a transformer? For example, the transformer in the basement (bottom left in diagram) is currently powering two zone valves. If it is also powering two Google Nest Thermostat E's, will that be too much? I can't find a VA rating on this thermostat, nor any model or labels at all other than the R and C terminals.
In reading up on adding C-wires, I saw mention a few times of isolation relays (for example, this thread). My interpretation is that these are necessary sometimes when you need to add an external transformer, and that they separate the circuit that is supplying the C wire to the thermostat from the circuit running within the boiler controller. I'm assuming I'm OK in my situation because the zone valves are "isolating" the circuits involving the external transformer (bottom left) from the circuit within the Hydrostat boiler controller. Is this correct?


texts: Why is humidity high from one unit but not the other?

texts:
Two months ago, I posted about our upstairs a/c not cooling all of a sudden. I ended up replacing the capacitor for the blower fan and the contactor, which did the trick. AC cools!!!  However since then, there has been increased humidity upstairs (>60%), and I just can't figure out why. We keep the temperature between 75-78, and live in NC.  It seems to be related to this unit, as the downstairs air at the same temperature, has lower humidity (<60%).

As I understand, humidity comes out of the air as it is cooled across the coils, in the form of condensation. It is captured in the pan under the evap coils. There is a drain to evacuate water to an overflow pan from the pan beneath the coils when it gets to a certain level.

Please tell me what else I am missing from my understanding of how air is dehumidified in a central ac unit (without a separate dehumidifier). I don't know if there is a fan that "evaporates" off the condensation like there is with a refrigerator or freezer.

This is what I've inspected/done:

Inspected drain pan, which was bone dry.
Accessed the evap coil, and found 1/2 inch of water which I drained. No blockage to the overflow pan.  There is some rust on coils and at the bottom of the pan, but I didn't see any pitting or obvious leaks.
Fins over the eval coils were pretty clean - no dust.
Cleaned the fins on the coils in the outside unit which were dusty

There must be something fundamental I don't understand, because if unit is cooling to the correct temperature, it seems that we don't have a cooling or a handling issue. But why would humidity be an issue now, if it wasn't before, and particularly, only on this one unit.