texts: Locating CAT3 wire with Transmitter and Receiver

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We are looking to convert the phone lines in our house over to network connections. The house is wired with CAT3 for both phone and DSL. The problem we are faced with is locating the end of the wire where it terminates at the patch panel. When I connect a transmitter to one of the phone jacks and use the receiver to locate the end of the wire, the receiver will beep on more than one wire. From my understanding, it should only beep on the one wire that has the transmitter connected to the end.

Can anyone explain what I’m doing wrong? Thank you.


texts: Does a 3/8 valve instead of a 1/2 valve on a gas stove matter?

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I have a new GE stove.  The installer mistakenly used a 3/8 valve instead of a 1/2 valve as listed in the installation instructions and they don't want to change it because they say it doesn't make a difference in flame height/heat/performance. I called GE directly and they agree.

Is this correct or they just being lazy?

Thanks in advance.


texts: My 27 year old Carrier Super Saver furnace fan blower stays running even when the thermostat is off. After some troubleshooting, found out that fusible link connected to what looks like a limit switch P/N 4283A was blown. Replaced the fusible link, furnace ran fine for 15 minutes, then no heat, only cold air coming out of vents. Fan/blower keeps running. Whats causing the fusible link to blow. Filter underneath th


texts: Can I block a skylight during summer without condensation?

texts:
I have a small fixed skylight and figure that during winter it's no problem to block the tunnel at ceiling level as suggested by an answer to a similar diy.stackechange question. (The only difference is that I like the light the skylight provides, so rather than rigid foam I am thinking of using clear multiwall polycarbonate panels that provide an R factor of 2 or more.)

The skylight is over a stairwell and difficult to get to so I'm thinking about leaving it in place year round.  What would happen if I were to leave this in place during the warm months?  It's dry and hot here in central CA in the summer, but would I still be at risk for condensation or mold on the drywall tunnel?


texts: Appropriate tool to remove wires in push wire

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I have several switches that have the push wire in the back and I'm going to replace each one with new ones. However, nearly all of them are using the push wire technique and its deep.

I have on a set of these, but apparently, they don't go deep enough.

Any technique I might be missing in trying to remove the wires?


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I have a dual-energy system set up like in figure 5/page 11 of this manual  When the system switches to gas (at -12C outside temp), I'm getting a banging sound in the gas boiler at the end of the cycle.  I think what is happening is that the water is "stuck" in the exchanger and boiling; it takes a few seconds for the aquastat to sense that the water is at temperature and stop the boiler.

Here is what I have observed:

If the circulating pump is running, there is no banging at the end of the cycle.  But, as you can see from the diagram, the circulating pump and thermostat are connected to the electric boiler.  When the thermostat calls for heat when the system is on gas mode, it simply starts the circulating pump.  The gas boiler doesn't know anything about this.  The gas boiler only starts when the water temperature falls below the temperature set on the aquastat.
The aquastat does appear to be working.  If I roll it back to 120 degrees from 180 degrees, there is a long wait until it turns on.  From what I can see, it is a simple aquastat -- just a dial with the temp in F.

Edit

Perhaps the aquastat is not working properly.  If I set it at 120F and the burner fires without the circulating pump turned on, it will start banging.  I think this is steam being created.  It seems that the aquastat should turn the burner off as soon as senses 120F.  ON the other hand, the  burner does turn off after some banging... I'm not sure if this is the aquastat turning off or something else.

Here is the manual for the gas boiler

I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this further (air in the system? check valve?)

Edit 2
d.george's answer led me to a solution.  There is no flow-switch installed and there probably should be.  The gas boiler instructions clearly state that water should be circulating when the burner is firing.  So I stuck a relay in between the thermostat and the circulating pump connection, putting the contact side in the gas boiler thermostat loop (shown in red below).


texts:
How can I convert the linear motion to rotary motion?

The linear force is from a solenoid. Below is my design:

The axle goes perpendicular to the plane of paper.
The axle needs to be rotated by an angle of 90 degree with a max torque of 1 KG-cm.

Joint 1 & 2 allow arms to move freely. The solenoid gives a linear motion of 1.5 cm.

I haven't built the prototype. I would like to know if there is a better design.

Also what should be the optimal length(in cm) of arms?

Of course a rotary solenoid connected to the axle will work.

I would like a cheap solution, also linear solenoid can be easily made.


texts: Fireplace - Pilot stays on, fire goes off

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Trying to figure what is wrong with my gas fireplace. I tried to start it few days ago first time since last winter, I brushed the thermocouple, thermopile and the burner, also used compressed air spray. Now the issue is that the pilot (blue/yellowish color) stays on, fire starts properly and after 10-15 seconds it dies completely (I can hear a click and even pilot goes off). Any ideas what is wrong?

Thank you!


texts: New light switch causing other switches to not work

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I'm by no means a professional but I've switched out plugs before (we wanted white instead of almond) so I thought installing a new zwave light switch would be the same. I installed it fine, the switch works, however, we've noticed two other light switches no longer work (one in the kitchen and one in the closet, they do all share a wall). Is it possible for that new switch to cause the others to not work like that? It doesn't seem like it but again I'm no professional.

I did turn off the power to the house via the main switch to install the zwave switch. I thought maybe I tripped the breaker they're probably both on but I've switched every breaker on and off already and that didn't seem to fix anything. Any ideas?

Edit added photos:


texts: How can I prepare this concrete floor for tile?

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I'm looking to replace an old carpet in my finished basement with tile.  I've removed the carpet and found a surface with some peeling paint, which I've read needs to be removed since the thinset for the tiles needs to bond to a solid surface.

I've tried attacking a small area with an angle grinder with a sanding attachment and a coarse grit sanding disc, and I've found that there seem to be a number of layers on top of the slab:

It looks like there are at least two layers of paint, and then the green layer is pretty resistant to coming off.  Below that there is this red, which I thought at first was maybe some weird color of cement, but if I really leave the grinder there it seems to get through to gritty looking concrete.

What do I need to do here to be able to tile on top of this?  It seems like the green / red layers are very well adhered and I wouldn't be worried about them coming up, but they also will not absorb any water, so I'm not sure if the thinset would bond?


texts: Lawnmower is not starting and is now leaking gas

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I hope someone can help me resolve this frustrating situation.

My lawnmower (Briggs & Stratton Max engine) is not starting and it has had problems starting/staying on before this. I followed others' advice to clean the carburetor and change the spark plug, but it is still not starting. Now, I notice gas is leaking from the carburetor cup around the rubber gasket area opposite the bolt. The cup does not feel snug and has some wiggle room which makes sense why it's leaking, but as I put it back together the way I disassembled it, I cannot figure out what the problem is. I have tried reseating the gasket and tightening the bolt several times but each time once I open the fuel line the cup begins to leak again from that same spot.

So now I have a bigger problem that needs to be resolved first, but:

What is the problem and how do I fix the leak?
How to I get the engine running again? The new spark plug supposedly comes pre-gapped to the specification my mower requires so I'm not sure if that is the issue. The gas in the tank is anywhere from 1-6 months old. Oil level is good.


texts: How to stop exercise mats from slipping on a hardwood floor in a multi-use room?

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So I purchased some folding exercise mats to put in my basement.  The allocated floor space is multi-use, so I need to be able to put the mats away when not in use.

The problem I am running into is that the mats slide around rather easily on the smooth hardwood floor.  I'd like to find a way to keep them from sliding around, but with the following considerations:

I don't want to damage the hardwood floor, of course.
I don't want to install anchors in the floor.  Some type of anchoring
on the baseboard trim around the perimeter might be ok.
I need to be able to setup the mats and tear them back down quickly.
Currently, I can just fold them up and put them away in less than
one minute (it's only two mats).  I'd like to keep around that
timeframe - i.e. no super complicated setups.
I don't want to get the floor "sticky" with some adhesive or anti-slip coating.

I'm fine with putting something on the underside of the mats, so long as it doesn't leave a residue on the floor.

I'd prefer not to be forced to place heavy weights on the mats to keep them in place, because a)  it takes up space on the mats (I only have about 64 sq ft), and b) I'd be nervous about dropping the weights and causing personal injury or damage to the floor.

Can anyone recommend a solution?

Thank you.


texts:
Installing a closet in the very corner of an old house. Note, I don't have a proper king stud, but two 2x4s with a plywood spacer in the middle. This is a load bearing wall.
I'm working with very limited space. Right now, it looks like I will end up with an 18 1/4" door which is inconvenient and looks ridiculously small. However, if I use 3/4" plywood instead of a regular 2x4, I would end up with a 19" door which to me is worth it. This is on the top floor, so there's no wall above it, but there is a ceiling joist roughly in the middle of the door. The floor in the attic is plywood screwed to the joists.
Is this OK to do?


texts:
I play beach volleyball and on certain parts of the beach we have either a lot of stones/sticks or waste. And sometimes we hurt ourselves because of it.
Therefore I want to make a foldable rake, as I don't want to carry around a 2m broomstick all the time. It needs to fit into a large backpack.
I found these broomsticks that are foldable and come with a screw-on connector:

And I found such a detachable rake:

I specifically chose these two as my idea is to remove that screw-top connector of the broom and insert the rake inside it and use a screw and wing nut to fixate the rake head.
But I want to enforce its stability from the inside with epoxy. But how can I "mold" the inside to the rake head without it sticking inside, so I can pull it out again?
Any ideas? Or maybe you have a different approach to make my foldable rake?


texts: Smallest (laser) holes in hardware stores for eclipse viewing

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Needless to say: this is a question that can best be answered by the crowd in the group, who are regular shoppers at hardware stores.

I'd like to view and show the upcoming solar eclipse. I do not wish to view it with protective gear—only through a projection.

The hardware stores nearby sell various pre-drilled metal parts.

What is the smallest, most accurate hole, I can find at a hardware store?

Ideally it would be drilled by laser and have a perfectly circular boundary.


texts: Plumbing issue...perhaps venting problem

texts: So my bathroom sink was draining slowly. This seems to be a constant issue with this sink..I have poured liked plumber down it numerous times and it works for a week or so and then needs to be done again. This time I was having no luck with the chemicals. I took the trap off and it was pretty funky. Cleaned it and I think I have everything together correctly but it seems like it is draining even slower now...any suggestions? This photo shows how the trap was put back together except that the two joints are much closer together, like basically touching


texts: Will the water be able to drain out of a blocked toilet?

texts: Our toilet is backed up and water is filled to the brim but there is nothing else in the bowl. I turned off the water supply for the toilet with the little knob connected to the wall, but will the water still be able to drain out of the bowl?


texts: Can I run electrical raceway on a baseboard?

texts:
I have a Panduit ldp5 I'd like to mount on a baseboard.  As you can see from the photos, the path above the baseboard is blocked by an existing outlet and further down, by a radiator.  The box fits nicely on the baseboard and the raceway blends.  The only downside I can think of is that the outlets will be low and perhaps more prone to being kicked or scraped by furniture.

The raceway is for 120V electrical outlets.


texts: What could cause the light in my garage door opener to stop working?

texts: The light that is attached to my garage door opener no longer turns on when I open or close the garage. I have tried incandescent and CFL bulbs that work in other lamps. Any ideas of what may be wrong or how I can troubleshoot the problem?


texts: How can I install a light fixture when the junction box is partially blocked by a mirror?

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I wanted to replace light fixture in my bathroom. When I removed the light fixture I noticed that electrical box was being slightly blocked by the wall mirror which is 10ft x 5ft. (see picture)

Now here's my dilemma. I cannot install a new light fixture as part of light fixture will sit over the mirror. If I try to screw it in then there will be space between the wall and light fixture. What can I do?

Cutting the mirror, moving the mirror down or moving the electrical box is not an option.


texts: plaster boarding an existing ceiling and locating pipes and electrics

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Hi I have located the joist with no problems. I now need advice on how to avoid putting my drywall screws into pipework or electric cable as I screw through the plasterboard.

Thank you in advance


texts:
I was using Gorilla super glue (this damn thing) to fix some chipped off furniture pieces and a loose rubber pad on a laptop. I think I used too much of it and made a little mess with spilled glue. I accidentally left some finger imprints on the laptop and furniture and the loose rubber strip was not aligned right. Is there a way to easily remove the marks? I tried scrubbing and it didn't seem to work. The most concerning marks are on my laptop front and back (I think the laptop case is aluminum with silver paint, not sure though).

Follow-up question: Can I use acetone on a laptop surface and on rubber?


texts: How do I level a concrete basement floor with a 1" dip?

texts:
I want to level my concrete basement floor, but on one end it slants down over 1" (over a 3'x15' run).

Can I fill this area before using self-leveling compound, to save money, or what else could I use?


texts: Gas hot water boiler not turning on past pilot light and click on thermostat for more heat. The flame on the furnace does not turn on. Changed out the Thermocoupler, After starting the pilot light, initially the flames came on, but did not stay on. and never turned on again.


texts: I am looking at adding a Fence to the side of the yellow wall to go up about 3 foot.  will i need to get planing permission or can i just go ahead, the yellow building is mine?


texts:
I'm currently remodeling my 1876 home. Some upgrades have been made by just adding new breakers and wiring, but I've come to a room that runs its power through the old knob and tube wiring. I am going to install all new wire, fixtures, etc.

The old knob and tube system also powers the two rooms next to the one I'm currently remodeling. Can I cut the old wire and cap it off with a wire nut and tape until I can remove the remaining live knob and tube wiring in the house?


texts:
I have a Samsung clothes dryer that stopped heating up.  Here's what I've tried so far:

verified that the 30 amp breaker is working fine
verified 120/240v at the relay
verified 9ohms across the heating element
verified that the element wasn't shorting against its housing
verified 0.1 ohm at the high limit cutoff and the thermostat
verified the thermistor on the control panel is functioning correctly
gave lint trap, exhaust, etc a good cleaning

About the only obvious thing I haven't tried is probing the outlet itself for 240v. I'm unable to check it with my multimeter because the probes can't reach inside the outlet.  That said, sine the relay read 120/240 as expected, I think it's getting good power.

Final weird thing is that after I put the dyer back together and it didn't work, I flipped the breaker off and on and tried the dryer again.  It heated up!  Power cycled the dryer and tried again, no heat.  Toggled the breaker... Heat! Power cycled and got no heat.  Figured I was on to something, but no amount of fiddling with the breaker or power cycling will make it heat up again.   Really not sure if that's a red herring, but including it for completeness.

So - any suggestions as to what the problem might be?  I guess I feel like I've tried the obvious things, and now need some less obvious possibilities.

Thanks


texts: Installing a new sub panel in my detached garage, about 90' from the main panel. Half of the distance of the run will be under the house and the second half underground to the garage. I have read that SER should not be run in underground conduit. Should I use a combination of SER and URD cable?


texts: HVAC Fan Set to Continuous By Landlord- Please help me rewire

texts: I live in an apartment in which the landlord has set the HVAC fan to be continuously blowing even with Auto Fan setting on.  Fan will also blow when Thermostat is turned off.   Please help me rewire this so that I can reduce my ever so large electricity bill!


texts: How do I fix a squeaky/whiny ceiling fan?

texts:
I have a four year old Monte Carlo ceiling fan, similar to this now-discontinued model 5OBR52BSD-L in style.  It has a light that points up towards the ceiling and another towards the floor.  The fan is making a whiny, almost squeaky noise, on all 3 speed settings.

How do I fix this?  With some good ol' WD-40 and luck?


texts: Can I connect two load lines to a GFCI receptacle?

texts:
I just bought a leviton GFCI and the instructions say if there are two load lines in the box, do not connect the GFCI in that box.
I can't understand why this is a problem, especially since the device has holes for two sets of wires (plus screw terminals) on the load side. Is this an issue of  GFCI volume vs box size?

This a kitchen outlet; my alternative would be to cut into the supply line & put the GFCI there, but this would be in the basement and inconvenient.


texts: Converting 3-gang electrical box to single

texts:
This 3-gang box in the kitchen houses a GFCI protected outlet, a dishwasher switch, and a garbage disposal switch. I will be wiring the dishwasher and the garbage disposal from under the sink with a box with two switches. The plan is to remove the wall switches and connect the hots at the existing box.
I’d rather not rip out the wall to remove 3-gang and replace it with a single box that would house the outlet and also act like a junction box for the dishwasher and disposal extension. I am looking at the least “intrusive” ideas that will allow me to do that.
One thought was to cover the two spaces with a drywall and install a single plate.
Another was to somehow pry the 3-gang and drop it inside the wall, then try to install an old-work box.
Any other ideas? What would you do?
This part of the wall is already painted but I guess I’d have to do what I have to do. Should I just bite the bullet and cut maybe a 1’x1’ square, put a proper single box and drywall it, or is there a better way?


texts: Can you use the bottom chord of a roof truss to support a attic deck? Does the chord have to been made of a truss joist?


texts: Can I demo plaster walls but somehow keep the window casing?

texts:
My house was built in 1915.  It has cracked (original?) plaster over lathe, poor insulation, leaded paint, and knob and tube wiring.  To fix all of these things, I'm demo'ing the upstairs down to studs. The ceilings too.  (I'm leaving the exterior siding and existing roof)  After updating the wiring and insulation I'll put in new drywall.

This is the first time I've taken out lathe and plaster.  The plaster doesn't have asbestos but the paint does contain lead.  I'm doing the full abatement: respirator, taped plastic barriers, hepa filters, etc. I'm doing it myself, and it sure is messy :)

As part of this project I'll replace the old windows. They're double-hung, single-pane, painted shut, weights removed, with some cracked glass.

(OK, these particular windows aren't painted shut...)

I want to keep the existing look of the windows.  It was recommended that I use window inserts instead of new construction flanged windows, although I've never done this. I'd paint over the existing leaded paint on the window trim.

However, all of the trim is put over the top of the plaster.  The lathe and plaster add up to around 1/2", but it's very irregular. It seems to vary +/- 3/16".
So if I dig the plaster out from behind the trim, I'm left with this varying gap between the trim and the framing.

Finally to my question.  How is this done?  I have a few ideas, but I'm hoping you can suggest better ones!  Or tell me I'm on the right track. Or, tell me to suck up and simply replace the whole thing...

Take off the lathe/plaster up to the trim. Install drywall up to the edge and fill any extra (varying) depth with mud, caulk, or moulding.
Leave the window trim in place and dig out the plaster an inch or so deep all the way around making a "lip".  Then slide drywall into place under the lip and fill in any gaps as above.
Remove the trim very carefully, and reattach it over the new drywall.

Any suggestions? Thanks for any advice.


texts: Wiring for a generator Inlet and EV charger

texts: I recently purchased a generator that has both a 30A and 50A outlets.  In order to provide my home with more amperage I decided 50A would be the better choice to install the inlet.  I was lucky enough to have someone who had some 6/3 UF-B cable left over from a job and will use it for the cable run.  I installed a short conduit outside my home from the basement to the garage,  approx 7ft total.  I used a 1.5in 40 sched pvc to have extra room to possibly run another cable in the future for an EV charger (NEMA 14-50).  I know UF-B is tough to pull but since it's only 7ft with multiple access points, I was wondering if it could be possible to pull both cables..  if not then would it be feasible to place a junction box at the entry of the conduit, pulling 6AWG THWN OR THHN wiring through the conduit and then splicing them in the box?


texts: How to cut out precise inside corners from hardboard?

texts:
We are making some templates out of 1/8" hardboard for some stonework and trying to get them accurate to within 1/32" and it is very tricky.
The hard parts are the inside corners (some of the templates have an L-shape). On the outside we can just use a rail saw to get a precise cut, but we can't do that with the inside corners. Using a jigsaw results in a jagged, uneven cut.


texts: How can I improve the sensitivity of a motion detector light?

texts:
I bought a motion detector light a few weeks ago. It worked great out of the box, but now its sensitivity has lowered a lot. You need to be really close to it for it to detect motion.

I tried cleaning dust, but it was not dirty.

Is there way to make it more sensitive? If I remove that white plastic that covers the light sensor, will the sensitivity improve?

I know it might make inside electronics dirty, but I don't care about that I can just clean sensor every week.


texts: Identifying a bulb from a 1969 built light fitting

texts:
I came across this light bulb socket in a piece of furniture built in 1969 in America. It's 2014 and I'm in Britain so frankly I have no idea. It's right down inside the thing so this is the best photo I can get.

I've worked with American pieces before but I don't recognise this kind of fitting. It doesn't seem to be threaded as an Edison Screw bulb usually is. Any ideas?


texts:
Should I replace the damaged floor or just the grout?
What kind of grout do you suggest and how to proceed?
Thank you.


texts: Is it practical to glue stuff to tiles with hot glue?

texts:
I need to hang several small things in the shower (like a soap holder). The shower cabin has tiles. To do this, I am thinking to use a hot glue gun.

I've seen it used before to glue small plastic things in the shower, though I am not sure of the practicality of it.

Is this the recommended way? Will this type of glue last? Or should I use some other type of glue?

Edit : thanks for the answers! If I could accept them both, I would - since joining both anwsers give me comprehensive information about what to do in both cases - when I want to glue  small and light plastic stuff, and when I want to attach something heavier like holder bar.


texts: LEDs on Dimmer switch turn off from another switch

texts: I’ve just installed LED down lights in bathroom and hallway. The light in the bathroom is a single LED and turns on/off correctly. There are 4 LED lights in the hall connected to a Trailing Edge dimmer switch. These operate normally, however, when the hall lights are on and the bathroom light is switched on it occasionally turns the hall lights off. They are all on the same lighting circuit. I’ve checked the wiring and am sure I’ve done it correctly but am perplexed on what I’ve done wrong. Any ideas?


texts: Any load on circuit trips bathroom breaker

texts: Very strange thing happening. House is less than an year old. This is the bathroom circuit. The only modification was an additional outlet. Everything was working fine for months. Until this morning, woke up and realize the breaker tripped. When I tried the reset the breaker, it trips immediately. I turned off all lights and unplugged all outlets, then the breaker was able to stay on. Now the strange thing is, any load on the circuit trips the breaker. Flipping any switch or plugging in any outlet causes the breaker to trip. Any idea what causing this?


texts: My granite foundation was underpinned and has load-bearing 6x6 posts around the perimeter of the basement. How to repoint behind them?

texts:
My building has a granite block foundation supporting a brick structure above it.

In the 80's, the building was gutted and the foundation was underpinned. They added load bearing posts around the perimeter of the basement that are supporting the joists and all the framing above. The granite block holds up the brick, the posts hold up the framing. It's like building inside of a building.

It's about time to repoint, water has started seeping (pouring) in.

There's actually a leak between some of the granite blocks in a corner of the building, but access is totally blocked by the 6x6. The posts in the corner are almost like a post and beam style construction, they're cut to fit around the framing, so I don't want to remove it completely since it's serving as a hanger too.

My first thought is to build a temporary load bearing wall perpendicular to the joists to hold the load, then cut the post at the top and bottom, do the best job possible in repointing, and reinstall new wood between the old cuts. But if everything isn't perfectly square, things are going to settle weird, and I'm worried that any shift at all might cause the outer bricks to crack. I'm sure the walls above are helping hold the bricks straight.

I'm considering replacing it with a lally column so I can cut it precisely and make it removable for the future access. Maybe even considering using the screw type column. There is a bottom plate to attach it to.

TL;DR: There's a 6x6 post blocking access to repoint, and it's leaking. How do you do it?


texts: What can I use to clean my brick fireplace

texts: I have a brick fireplace that has been great over the years. I was wondering, since I can't pressure-wash the grout or brick with a cleaner, what can I use to bring the brick and grout back to life?


texts:
I am looking at converting my kids playhouse to a wood burning sauna. It sits about 6' off the ground on 4x4 treated posts.

I have two questions abut this:

The floor is 5/8" treated plywood. I was thinking either a 2" concrete floor, or 5/8" cement board. Would either work?
The walls are drywall. Would I have to remove this or can I put tongue and groove cedar over it? Plastic vapor barrier between drywall and cedar?


texts: In a multigang box, can I reduce the pigtails by using one single wire for all hots?

texts:
I'm curious if it's to code to use one wire (with 1/4" spots that have the sheathing trimmed off, which connect to the terminals) for all my grounds and one wire for all my hot connections in a multi-gang switch box. This is an attempt to reduce the pigtails in the box.

Is there a term for this idea/technique? I thought it might be called daisy chaining, but I don't know if that term is specific to this technique.

Below is a pic of what I was doing prior. I'm also curious if the wire nuts aren't big enough for all 4 of the wires, if I can safely use a wire to jump to another wire nut (reducing the wire nuts to only 3 wires each)?


texts: Is it normal for the concrete covering my interior perimeter drain to be damp?

texts:
I inherited an interior perimeter drain with a sump-pump as part of a basement waterproofing system when I purchased my new home two years ago.

Since then I have noticed that along the seam of the drain, where the concrete covering the drain system meets the basement slab, the concrete always appears to be darker in color than the rest of the floor and always has a damp feel to it.

The perimeter drain company says this is due to condensation. It would seem to me that if the drain is functioning properly then there should be little condensation occurring.

Does anyone have experience with these types of systems and know what I should be expecting as far as performance and dryness?


texts: Install deadbolt in metal steel door and door jamb

texts:
I searched online but could not find answer to all these questions.

I'm installing a deadbolt to a metal/steel door. There is only a sheet of metal and it is hollow (empty inside). I also need to drill the hole in the door jamb (frame of the door) so the bolt can go inside when locked.

Considering that I already drilled the 2-1/8 inches hole on both sides of the door (exterior and interior), and also the 1 inch hole for the bolt:

The inner side of the door (where bolt sleeve/plate would be attached) is flat. The bolt sleeve would not embed inside the door, and would prevent the door to fully/soft close. How to fix this? How to prepare this side of the door to embed the bolt sleeve? If it was wood, I could simply chip the wood to the required depth, but how to do it with metal/steel door (specially considering it is hollow/empty inside)?
Same question above for the door jamb. Same thing, it is flat. If I install the strike plate, it would prevent the door from closing properly. How to embed the strike plate into the door jamb?

Thank you!


texts: dig out and finish my crawl space into a basement

texts:
I have a house with a continuous concrete stem wall, and a sill plate seismically bolted to the foundation. It's on a hillside, and the north (downslope) is post and pier (not continuous). There are anchor bolts as well.

The downhill side of the house has a crawl space big enough you can almost stand up in it, dirt below my feet.

What's the process (and reality) about digging this out a bit and creating a finished basement? Both for insulation and for increased livability / storage. I assume there's a building engineer in there?


texts: How to cover this gas line sticking out of the wall?

texts:
I'm looking for nice a way to cover this gas line plug sticking out of my wall. It's an eyesore that is no longer needed, I believe a leftover from the oven in an extra basement kitchen area. It sticks out about 0.75" from the wall.
I know they make domed cover plates for plumbing cleanouts (such as this), but those typically screw right into a plastic cleanout plug. In this case, it's a metal plug/cap. Ideally I was hoping to find something similar (domed blank cover plate) that I can screw into the wall with wall anchors. I'm not really sure what I should be searching for though. Any suggestions?


texts: Connecting 2 light fixtures with 1 switch between

texts:
Redoing an old house. All wiring 12-2. Presently have 1 old light operating to the switch. Have power there. Now, trying to run additional fixture off same existing light switch. Have tried multiple combination but have gotten no results to 2nd light fixture. Power originates in original fixture, and travels to switch.
 Can somebody clear this for me and possibly provide a clear picture? Do I need to pull a single strand from switch to 2nd light, and if so,


texts: What are your recommendations for bedroom recessed lights in a step ceiling?

texts: While remodeling our bedroom we are considering recessed lighting. The bedroom has a seating area also - the bed area is 14' x 15' and the seating area is 10' x 9' (overall length is 24 ') and the ceiling is a step ceiling (30" from wall and 8" high). Each area has a light switch which controls overhead lighting. Would the recessed lights (assuming 4" lights) spaced every 4 ft and 15" from the wall (1/2 the distance of the step ceiling) be adequate (assuming a 40-50 w bulb?). We also have 3-4 lamps in the room also.


texts: Expanding a window downwards in a brick face

texts: I understand that expanding a brick window is an expensive operation, and I was wondering what went into such an operation. We have a window in the front of our house that we want to expand downwards, which involves cutting into the brick facing of our 1960s house. The quote for just the masonry work by window companies is in the range of $2500, and that seems a bit steep to me, being that we aren't widening (requiring adjustments to the roof supports) or expanding upwards. Is this is something viable as a DIY project? Or are there special considerations that make this the realm of a specialist?


texts: How do I mount this towel rack that was ripped off the wall?

texts: Hi one of my tenants sent me a pictures of my broken towel rack. What would be the most cost effective fix?


texts: Why are lights on 15 amp circuits and receptacles on 20 amp?

texts:
I'm wondering about the logic behind 15 amp vs 20 amp.  Why isn't everything 20 amp if it is considered safe?

If a light circuit shorts, what difference does it make it if trips at 15amp vs 20 amp?


texts: How can I determine what is emitting chemical fumes in my home?

texts: Our home is a reconstructed 1890's log home moved and rebuilt in the late 70's or early 80's. They used 1 inch thick styrofoam board in the ceiling under the pine tongue and groove. I think it is the foam board that is off gassing. There is no plastic vapor barrier. How can I narrow down the odor. Is there any information about off gassing of the light weight insulation - It looks like  tiny Styrofoam balls pressed lightly together to make the boards.


texts: How can I secure this faucet: the pipe is not secured inside the wall

texts:
The pipe leading to this exterior faucet was apparently never secured inside the wall (contractor mistake when the wall was built):

So it pulls in and out in use, and no doubt lets rain water drip into the wall.
 It certainly means the grade D stucco paper behind has an unintended gap.

Accessing it from inside is hard.  What would the external repair options be? What would a proper bracket look like, to secure this pipe from the outside (after caulking the heck out of the gap)?

The right thing seems almost like a floor flange:

But this flange would require pipe cutting, so it could slip over the pipe for solder, and that all seems a bit awkward also, in part because soldering might stress or melt the tar paper inside.


texts: Can I attach a noticeboard to a plasterboard wall using superglue?

texts:
I would like to put up a cork noticeboard (with wooden frame) in my kitchen, but the location I want it has several wires and pipes behind it and I am very wary of drilling into it. So I'm looking for a noninvasive method of attachment.

As the noticeboard is fairly light (and would only have paper pinned to it), is superglue an option? The idea is to glue along the wooden edge of the board and press it against the wall for 24 hours.

While the glue is very strong I'm not so sure about the paint on the wall. Might the board rip the paint off the wall? All in all, is this a viable solution (and if not what do you think my options are?)


texts: The inlet on my water heater is leaking.

texts: The pipe is corroded.If I clean it up is there a way to wrap this or something to apply to stop the leak? i don't think removing is an option.


texts: Why does my greatroom have a GFI breaker on the circuit?

texts: We moved into a condo in 2012 and have had issues on one of the circuits. The circuit serves the outlets in our great room and sun room. Initially, we would trip the breaker when using the vacuum cleaner. We have not had issues for a year or two. Last night, it tripped 3 times. We had two lamps on, the TV, cable box, wifi router, and several strands of the mini Christmas lights. When we were first complaining about tripping (with the vacuum), the electrician said that GFI breakers are very sensitive. Last night was a pain with the 3 trips during a football game. Question is, why do I have GFI breakers in these locations in the first place? No sinks or water sources near any of the outlets. A pic of my box should be attached. I understand why 20 and 21 are protected, but why 16, 17, and 19? Thanks in advance for your replies.


texts: We are finally (after 12 years!) getting to painting the last room in our home.  It was originally painted with builder's paint, but being a "spare" room, we weren't in a rush to repaint.  The room is on the 2nd floor, as are the other bedrooms, and there has never been any moisture or leakage problems.  We purchased Kilz primer and it won't adhere to the ceiling or walls!  It peels off as you apply it!  What do you suggest?  This is getting expensive and very frustrating.  We had no issues with any of the other rooms.


texts: Can I span a gap between pipes with heat tape?

texts: I have hot and cold lines running parallel to each other.  Can I start heat tape on one line and then "jump" 4 inches to the other line to finish the installation in order to use the entire length of a 3 foot heat tape run


texts: Can I go with higher CFM for bathroom ventilation fan?

texts:
I need to replace my bathroom ventilation fan. I am in 2nd floor condominium. My bathroom dimensions are 60 square feet and ceiling height is 8'2".
As per formula I found for CFM (height × length × width × 0.13) ,I need fan with around 62.4 CFM.
I can only find 50 and 80 CFM fans, can't find anything between. Should I go with 80 CFM fan ? There is around 10' to 12' of duct work before it opens outside on the wall.
I have attached picture of the flexible white duct which is connected to solid metal duct as you can see in the far end of the picture.
Can I replace  flexible duct with solid duct to get more smooth air flow ?
Do I need to buy insulated duct ?
My building  is around 34 years old. Not sure if there are specific code requirements for my case.


texts: Troubleshooting power for bathroom fan/heater/light fixture

texts:
Situation: installing new switches for 3-in-1 heater/fan/light fixture. Old custom switch set (broken) had three switches and an indicator light. New generic set has three switches and an outlet. Unfortunately as my dad attempted to install, and then as I troubleshot, exact identities of wires were lost. However, I did identify one wire which had no load and therefore tripped the breaker whenever connected to a closed switch. I connected that one to the outlet, and now the outlet works. However, in the process something happened which disabled the rest of the system.

So, currently: the fan/heater/light have been tested and verified to work (by a separate power source). The junction box has about a 110 VAC drop across each switch. Each switch is verified to work. None of the switches cause the fan, heater, or light to turn on, yet the outlet in the same junction box works. What could the problem be? I learned electricity on cargo ships so I am not used to troubleshooting residential circuits. Would there still be a voltage drop across the switches (when opened) if the cable going up to the unit burned through at some point? I inspected all of the cable that I could get to from the attic, and there was no evidence of burning/shorting, but there is a portion that I can't get to in the wall to inspect. I am looking for the next best troubleshooting or repair step.


texts: What's a good tool create a floorplan with?

texts:
My brother just moved into a new house, and it has quite a lot of rooms that we aren't entirely sure what to do with. As a result, I thought it'd be a good idea to create a floor plan that I can print out and then they can sketch what they think would look good in each room.

Basically I'm looking for some kind of software to construct a floor plan with.


texts: How can I repeatedly cut the same pattern using a router?

texts:
I'm involved with a project where I need to use a router (or some other tool?) to carve a specific-sized square in the top of a desk. This square will not go all the way through the desk; rather, it will only go .5" deep into the desk's surface.

I am currently using a router, but I need to do this for several desks and the square should be identical on each desk. What are my options for such precision routing? Is there a more industrial, time-saving, more-precise tool I can rent / buy instead of a hand-held router?


texts: Are wood boxes sturdy enough to support a loft bed?

texts:
I am planning on getting "wood crates" to be the legs of a lofted bed.
Each box measures 18" x 12". For thickness, the long sides are strips of 1/4" pine and the short sides are solid 3/4" pine:

I want to make the legs 54" (18*3) tall in front, and stacking four crates with some 2x4s at the top (to fill in the gap to reach 54".

Starting in the bottom left corner and going clockwise: I plan on cutting out slots for two 2x4s in the crates for stability. Then, along the back left, there is a 1' 2x4 for support (and will probably add another one in the middle). Along the back bottom is a 1x2. Inside the front bottom is a 2' 1x2. Last, the top frame is made of 2x4s.
Will this design be strong enough to support a sheet of plywood under a mattress? Is there a good rule of thumb related to figure this out?
Edit
The wood crates are pine and they are all the same dimensions. They are fastened together with staples as seen in the picture. (These are commonly available at home improvement stores.) My qualm is how these are marketed as decorative boxes.


texts:
I have an existing 220v 50 amp plug in my garage just bought a new 40 amp
Range, would like to plug in range in garage just till after thanksgiving
Then will replace aa cooktop with it in kitchen can I buy a cord to match the 50 amp plug and use range over thanksgiving or will it ruin range or be a safety hazard


texts: Plasterboard on roof rafters. Is this okay?

texts:
I am looking to convert the eaves of my loft into storage space. I plan to lay chipboard floor panels over the joists below, but not sure how to best cover the exposed sloping rafters above. I was thinking I could just screw plasterboard across the rafters and screw them on with plasterboard screws. Would there be any issues in doing this? I don’t plan to put any insulation between the rafters.

Thanks.


texts: How would you attach an interior wooden wall to a metal building?

texts:
Didn't see this question from my searches but I'm unsure if I have my terminology incorrect.  I've been looking to add some finished, air controlled, rooms to a metal building with beams upon my research I've seen multiple ways to attach a wood frame on the inside:

from: 2x4 Wall Framing and Questions on Interior wall treatment that seems to place walls in between the beams and www.WilsonworksConstruction.com - Wall Framing (which is a bad video) so:

from: Frame up of New Office in metal building showing the framing from outside of the beam.  If I plan to run electrical and insulation which process is correct and how would you properly fasten the wooden interior walls to the metal beams?  Is there a special way to do this?  I'm familiar with installing interior walls in a basement and to concrete floor with a Ramset Gun but I don't know if this is the same process.


texts: Installing Pendant light with gold, silver and bronze coated wiring

texts: I bought some used pendant lights that 3 plastic coated wiring in silver, bronze, and either gold or green.  All the wires are silver.  I'm assuming the wiring is done that way because the wires are somewhat visible in the hanging sheath.  Does anyone know which might correspond to the black/white/grounding wire?


texts: I added insulation to my attic rafters, but should I have left room for airflow?

texts:
I added insulation to my attic rafters and plugged the space between the outdoors and my attic with insulation.  It lowered my heating bill by $150/month, but I've seen some information that I may have made a mistake by cutting off the airflow in my attic.

Did I make a mistake, and if so, how can I properly insulate my attic?  There's already insulation in the floor.


texts: Gooey build up on sandpaper when sanding

texts:
just started my first DIY project of finishing my 3 year old IKEA Gerton Beech Wooden table top. I have been using this as my computer table and it has become very dirty so I thought I'll use this opportunity to also try to make it look like a beautiful professional table top (loved this one: https://imgur.com/gallery/kEmy8).

So I read up A LOT about how to go about this and finally decided on a wipe on poly finish and went out and bought all the stuff that I needed.

All my excitement turned to nought when I began sanding the tabletop (with 100 grit sandpaper). I couldn't get more than a few swipes before the paper gets clogged with a gooey greyish black residue that also gets even more tightly lodged into the tabletop with the sandpaper movement over it. I tried a bit and decided to check with the hardware store if they had any advise for this. The guy there told me to use an even coarser sandpaper and recommended 60 which I did but with the same results.

I've now spent a couple of hours trying to sand the table but have given up for the day. I also tried wiping it down with white spirit (bought to clean my brush for the stain apply) but again faced the same issue when I tried to sand the table. I'm also wondering if it's worthwhile buying an orbital sander to make this task easier but not sure it will with the specific issue.

I don't want to give up on this though and would really appreciate any advise to solve this problem. The table was treated with a coat of some sort of oil (most probably Danish oil) when it was bought new about 3 years ago so not sure if that's what's causing this problem now.


texts:
I have a 20cm hole in a wallpapered wall.
Can I get away with filling the wall with plaster, then painting over it, without stripping the wallpaper off the entire wall first?
Or must I strip the wallpaper first?


texts: Septic odor coming from the overfill tube

texts: I understand the basics of toilet operation and venting, but not sure how to solve this problem.  I have a brand new house and toilet and there are septic odors coming from the overfill tube.  It is my understanding that when the tank fills, the fill valve fills up the toilet bowl by the small hose that goes into the overflow tube and this water goes into the bowl.  So, the overfill tube should only have odors if the bowl has odors or if the s-trap in the toilet is not full of water.  There is a vent pipe placed about 3 feet from the toilet off the main 3" line to the septic tank.  Even if it was blocked by something, the s-trap should still block odors.  Looking for answers.  Thanks.


texts: What is the easiest method to clean a bathroom floor that doesn't have a drain?

texts:
I recently moved to a new apartment and the bathroom does not have a floor drain. In my previous apartments, I used to pour/spray water on the bathroom floor while scrubbing with a brush and detergent, rinse it, then wait while the water drains off and dries. But I can't do that without a drain because the water puddles and seeps out under the door. Also, I am too lazy to use a mop and a bucket to clean the corners under the sink and behind the toilet.

Is there a fast and easy way to clean the bathroom without drowning the floor? Alternatively, is there a way to manage the water on the floor after cleaning the way I used to? Any suggestions for equipment/products that can be purchased online or at a convenient store that would make the process easier?


texts: Did I harm the integrity of my house trying to run a wire?

texts:
I wanted to run a CAT6 cable simply from a first floor room to the second floor room directly above it. I drilled through the bottom plate in the wall on the 2nd floor as shown. I first used a 1/2 in bit, but it was not long enough so I bought a 5/16 one that was 1 ft. Unfortunately I messed up with the first hole and had to stop because due to a slight angle it started poking through the dry wall on the other side (just open air into the house entryway). Seems that the 1 ft one was not long enough either surprisingly because there is still not a thru hole. I'm most worried about whether this is now unsafe, but if not, what is the problem here? Do I need an even longer bit?
UPDATE:
I took out the drywall in the room directly below this, and found a large wooden beam spanning that wall, from at least ceiling level to 1ft down. That wall also has a large opening for a folding door. I fear I really shouldn’t have made those holes— maybe that huge beam is there to compensate for the opening, i.e. lack of studs? What do you think? On the bright side, I got the CAT6 cable out through an exterior wall and ran it up the brick and it looks and works quite good!
Purple is where I know for sure there is wood, green star is directly below the drill holes:


texts: Are air vents in a house intended to let some air through when they're closed? Would it be bad to completely seal it?

texts:
I would like to be able to use the vents in my house in a way that targets specific rooms/areas more than others. Sometimes I want to completely close off a room from being temperature-regulated by the furnace or air conditioning.

It seems like most of my vents still let a significant amount of air through when I close them (I would estimate that closing the vent still lets through 20-40% of the air).

Is this intended? Would it be harmful to the furnace blower if I got vents that would seal completely and if I were to close 30-40% of the vents throughout my house in order to target the air in specific rooms?


texts: Can I wire R from AC system and R from heating system to single R terminal on thermostat?

texts:
I want to replace existing thermostat that controls both heat and AC.
There are two cables coming out of the wall. One goes to heating system with a red wire and a white wire,
the other goes to to the AC unit with a red, yellow and green wire.
On the old thermostat one red wire went to R and the other went to RC. There is no jumper on this thermostat. The new thermostat has a single red terminal.
Should I only connect one of the red wires to this?
If so should I use the one from the AC system or the heating system. Or, as an alternative should I wire both red wires to the same R terminal on the thermostat?


texts:
I am building a deck.  One section of the deck will come out from the house 4 feet furhter than the rest of the deck.  This pushes my joist spans to the next larger size.  This part of the deck is supported from a beam a little further out, and the rest of the deck is supported from a different beam.  Can I (and is it a good idea) to use 2x12 joists for the longer joists, and 2x10 joists for the shorter ones.  I can raise the beam the 2x10s sit on by 2 inches so that the top of the joists are at the same level.

Or I can just buy all 2x12 joists for the whole thing.


texts: I have never seen a wire nut used in the UK, but they seem to be very common in the USA, why?


texts: Would an Elmer's wood filler color match a Minwax wood finish color?

texts: I recently stained some red oak using Minwax Wood Finish in Golden Oak colour.  I need a hardening wood filler to close up the seams.  Would Elmer's Wood Filler in Golden Oak complement this?  Or, should I pick a different colour?


texts: How can I improve the directional flow of my furnace exhaust pipe?

texts:
This one's for the creative folks. I'm in a condo on the top floor and I have a side neighbor. Both our furnaces exhaust out the back, under a four-foot roof section overhang (sticks out about a foot with a gutter). They're really close to each other (2-3 ft away) and our bedroom windows (3 ft down and maybe 3 ft. to the side, mine is on the left side of the photo). Here's my issue: The wind almost constantly blows from west to east there, creating a wind tunnel and always blowing the exhaust past my windows – I’d say 90% of the time they are gusting past my condo.

Is there a way to create a wind break, possibly by placing some barrier, plexi or something, vertically under that eave and down between the exhausts to lessen the down draft of these furnaces? Thanks in advance.

I am open to other ideas too, besides a windbreak. Thanks.


texts: How to remove inaccessible screws from window handle?

texts: My window handles are defunct. The locking cylinder is missing from one, and the cylinder is loose and falls out of the one pictured. They are both locked shut permanently. Two screws hold it in place, one is accessible but the other is not. There is very little clearance to insert a tool to remove the bottom screw and the handle cannot be moved since it is locked shut. The clearance is about 5mm (shown in the second picture). Is there any specialist tool that could remove this screw?


texts:
I'm building a rustic cabin this summer and looking to keep construction cheap and simple.

Are there sheathing materials that can double as siding that folks would recommend?  The cabin is small, 12'x 16' and I want to build 2ft on center with rough cut 2x6s.

I've consider T1-11 as an option, though I've started to notice a lot sheds around with pretty crappy, weather beaten looking T1-11, so I am now questioning the quality of that product. I live in Vermont, which is pretty wet and cold. Other ideas I have considered:

3/4" exterior rated plywood, trimmed to cover seams and with some vertical strips, for kind of a faux-board and batten look
Shiplap nailed straight onto studs.  I have an old garage at home done this way, which is still standing (seems like this was a common practice around here way back when). A sawmill near me makes shiplap that is cheaper per board foot than plywood.

Other ideas welcome. Thanks!


texts: How to remove rust from desktop computer cabinet case

texts:
How to remove rust from desktop computer cabinet/ case?

I have 10 desktop PC and for 1 purchased cooler master premium cabinet which was expensive all if their side covers and internals are getting rusted I have googled and founded many chemicals but don't which one is safe and best which do not destroy the paint of the cabinets. I'm worried the rust don't catches in motherboard HDD or any other components

I have the following queries:

Which of chemical are good for rust removing and safe  secure and long lasting and does not cause rust again
How and what I can apply  can I protect cabinet so that it don't form rust again
How can I repaint the scratches after scrubbing the rust the cabinet which matches original paints does spray paint work as original
If it's a galvinised paint then why does rust form inside metal and outside covers can we do galvinised paints at home or market

Kindly guide or advice me with your suggestions and advice for rust free cabinets.


texts: Run humidifier while furnace is not heating but fan is running?

texts:
I've got a bypass humidifier mounted on my gas furnace, and an ecobee 3 thermostat driving both furnace and humidifier.  What I like about having the ecobee drive the humidifier, is that it knows the outside temperature and so is able to adjust the target humidity level to avoid condensation on my windows.
The problem is that here in Colorado, the air is so amazingly dry that even with the humidifier running 100% of the time that the furnace is running, it can't get the humidity over about 28% - even when target humidity (based on outdoor temperature) is over 40%.
The ecobee has a setting for "type of humidifier" where the options are "steam" or "evaporative".  Right now it's set to "evaporative" but according to their tech support, setting it to "steam" would allow the humidifier to run while the fan is running, even if the furnace isn't (and I have my system set to run the fan 75% of the time, to try to keep the different parts of my house at the same temperature).
Does running the humidifier when the furnace isn't heating have any risks?  Does the humidifier somehow depend on the fact that the air flow it's dumping into is recently heated?


texts:
I'm a bit stuck as to what I should do right now I've completed the framing in my basement. I realized the wall connected to this metal pipe was supposed to ideally be built using 2x6 rather than 2x4 so the edge of my frame as seen in image 2 doesn't match the outer edge of the support beam. Do I need to remove all my walls to re frame this wall as a 2x6 wall or is there another alternative for me? As well, I'm clueless as to how I'm supposed to frame around this pole in order to do the dry wall.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[


texts: Can I Replace This Junction Box with a Subpanel?

texts:
In the 1950's, our house was built with a Zinsco main service panel that ultimately served six two-wire (ungrounded) and two grounded (via AC/BX) circuits. In the 1990's, a new service panel was fitted elsewhere and the branch wiring from the old panel was extended to the new panel; the old panel is now a junction box.
Can I replace this old panel/junction box with a new sub panel and meet 2020 code compliance?

My foremost concern is whether this is a modification to the branch circuit wiring for the eight circuits mentioned above and as such would require bringing all those circuits up to modern code. I can add AFCI/GFCI breakers in the panel to address AFCI and ungrounded circuit requirements, respectively. But two of the circuits serve the Kitchen receptacles in a manner not consistent with modern code; there is one 15 amp circuit serving countertop receptacles, and another 20 amp circuit serving another countertop, microwave, nook, refrigerator, stove, and hood vent. Obviously that's one heavily loaded 20 amp circuit, and is part of the motivation to fitting a subpanel over by the kitchen so I have panel space for more dedicated kitchen circuits when I remodel in 10 years.
Another, more immediate motivation, to fitting a subpanel here is so that I can use the 50 amp feeder that serves the detached garage subpanel and passes through this junction box as the feeder for this panel. I want to add a 50 amp car charger circuit to the garage, and since I can't send a dedicated circuit in addition to a feeder, I have to abandon the existing feeder and run a 100 amp feeder to the garage instead. Fitting a subpanel at the junction box lets me utilize this abandoned feeder, and also makes more room in my main panel. Win-win-win!


texts:
I'm replacing my deck. I would like to use a flush beam (same level as joists) at the edge opposite the ledger  because I plan to put a roof over it and I can put the roof posts right on top of the posts holding up the deck, which will be at the edge. My question is how should I handle the corner notching? Both the beam and the joists on the sides will be doubled 2x10's. If I notch the post in both directions there will be hardly any post left. See the first picture. This is what was done in the past and the beam was simple nailed to the post. I plan on bolting them, like in the second picture of a non corner post.

Old corner post:

ri

A new post which is how I plan on doing it in the future:


texts: Do I need a 3 wire cable between light fixtures?

texts:
I am wiring up my unfinished basement for rough-in inspection. My understanding is that to wire 30 recessed lights (9w each), I can wire with regular 14/2, in the image below.

However, my PS Knight code book shows me a diagram with a 3 wire cable between fixtures. Is this necessary?


texts: Ganged Circuit Breaker has strange ganging configuration. 40-[30-30]-40

texts:
I have a scenario where the Circuit Breakers for a Dryer and a Range are intertwined in the CB panel. In the picture below 17 and 20 are ganged together with that wild ganging clip. 18 and 19 both 30amps are ganged together normally.

Is this kind of ganging of breakers with in code ?
Why would anyone do this ?
Why wouldn't they just connect this normally 17 & 18 and then 19 & 20?

EDIT 7-11-2018

Based on write ups and comments etc.. I  felt it better to edit my post rather than to go through each write-up/comment.

Please don't read anything into the numbering of spaces, I was told the previous homeowner did that numbering.

17 & 20 Range........40 Amp Range.
18 & 19 Dryer..........30 Amp Dryer.
1 & 2, 3 & 4.............60 Amp Heater.
5 & 6, 7 & 8.............30 Amp Air Conditioner.
21 & 22, 23 & 24.....30 Amp Water Heater.

I know each pole is 120V circuit. I know that you gang them in a 240V circuit (L1,L2) - in a residence in USA you don't normally get 220V Single Phase (HI-Leg or Stinger Leg - of course they all sting if you ask me).

So each pole Odd/Even slot - A & B Phase if you will (L1, L2). Normally Odd (1, 3, 5 etc) is L1 and Even (2,4,6 etc) is L2 (of course I don't think code states which is L1 and which is L2). That way when you place a 240V breaker in; it takes up the Odd Slot {120V - L1} and the Even Slot {120V - L2} for 240V. This might be panel dependent but that is the jist of getting 240V from L1 and L2.

As for the breaker in question I do believe it is a Quad as some have linked to. Which basically sounds like 2 Double Stuffs in one unit , in order to fit the number of breakers that are needed. Seems to me the Builder did not size the panel correctly and just Stuffed away.


texts: 1 outlet / 2 switches: want to replace old outlet with GFCI

texts:
(Similar to How do I install a GFCI receptacle with two hot wires and common neutral? but hopefully different enough to warrant my question.)

In our bathroom we have 1 outlet and two switches in the same box.  Here is a diagram (ports that are hot have red squares):

I would like to replace the current outlet with GFCI.  Can this be done properly and safely given the current wiring scheme?


texts: Can subterranean termites live on wet wood only without access to the ground?

texts: I didnt know that my sink was leaking making the woods under it wet which made it ideal for termites. When I check under the sink there were mud tubes and termites. The house/sink is made of concrete and the only wood was the cabinet under the sink. No wood is in contact with the soil. So my question is can a subterranean termite colony live without access to the soil? There were swarmers that got inside the house a few months back which I guess found the wet wood under the sink and started a colony. Is that even possible?


texts: What type of roller track fitting for a screen door is this?

texts:
I have an old sliding screen door at the back of our house that has had issues with falling off the track for a while. In the past I have been able to temporarily fix this by adjusting the height of the roller wheel in the door.
However now the door falls off the track every time, (even after adjusting the roller). I believe now that the roller fitting is so worn it desperately needs replacing.
I've been to a few local hardware stores and searched online without success, and was wondering if someone had some experience with this particular fitting.
A previous answer (https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/140890/48979) had a broken link to a list of replacement rollers, so even a good resource like that may be helpful.


texts: I live in a house built in the 1970s. I tried to buy a new Bosch Ascenta dish washer. The installer from Best Buy who came by said that they couldn't install it because the pipes in our house are too big and the hoses from the dish washer are designed for newer plumbing with smaller pipes. He said I would have to call a plumber to resolve the issue. The pipes under the sink are copper. Are all new dish washers this way? I can pick a different brand if it'd help. I then called a plumber and they said they don't install dish washers! It feels like an impossible situation because unless I somehow got them to both show up at the same time, I'd be stuck without a dish washer for a while and there would be no way to test it while they're here. My old dishwasher is still working, but just leaks water and I can't close the detergent dispenser. I figured it'd be best to get a new one instead of repairing the old one. Any ideas?


texts:
My thermostat is a Honeywell that goes to an old furnace with a Honeywell furnace controller (the board that provides the spark for my gas furnace, among other things like 24V, TH-W, etc.). The thermostat is using the red (R), white (W), and green (G) wires. R and W seem to be connected to the furnace controller correctly, because my furnace and fan work fine when heat is needed. The G wire is connected in the thermostat, but then goes no where in the furnace. I would really like to be able to turn the fan to ON without having a heating cycle activated (fan ON is readily available in the thermostat, it just does nothing because the G wire is not hooked up in my setup).

Where do I connect the G wire in the furnace?

Photos of furnace:


texts: What are the pros and cons of Milgard vs Jeld-Wen windows?

texts:
I am replacing old window. The new window will be 69 1/2 inches wide and 59 1/2 inches tall.

I am thinking vinyl, two-vent slider (three equal sizes).

Home Depot suggests Jeld Wen ($500) for vinyl. A contractor quoted me Milgard (not sure of the price since it includes labor).

Is there any pros/cons to one brand or the other?


texts: Usefulness of Cord Reel with 100-ft Extension Cord

texts:
I may be missing something, but how useful is a cord reel such as the one pictured with a 100-ft long extension cord?

I'd like to think that a 100-ft extension cable with a pretty good gauge (12) would act as a substitute for a 50-ft and even for a 25-ft cable. But after winding on such a cord reel, one end will be inaccessible, and so even to use it as just a 25-ft extension, I'd have to unwind the whole thing out. Is that right?

I saw suggestions online to buy a specialized reel that picks up the extension cable from its centerpoint. That would solve the problem, but it would also introduce a stress point through excessive bending. Yet another suggestion online is to avoid a reel altogether and use a piece of wood, though I'd really rather not spend half a day fabricating something like this myself.


texts:
I am having the following problem.
A few months ago I finished my basement (1 Bedroom and 1 Bathroom).
I had an existing GFCI outlet down there to which I connected a couple more outlets, an exhaust fan in the bathroom and some LED lighting.
Everything worked just fine until 2 days ago. Nothing works anymore in the basement. Breaker did not flip.
I disconnected everything that I had connected to this one existing GFCI outlet when I finished the basement. I also took off the existing GFCI outlet to have better access to the incoming cable (source). Below you see the existing circuit (as far as I was able to find out) as well as the measured voltages in the finished basement. Like I said, I disconnected everything in the basement (back to original condition before finishing the basement) and still getting this low voltage. Too low to make anything work.
Why did that happen all the sudden and what can I do to fix it?
Thanks a lot!


texts: Can indoor cable be run through an exterior wall and into a disconnect box?

texts:
I’m running 6/3 NM cable from my breaker box inside the house through the studs and then exiting to the outside to tie into a spa disconnect box.

Can I have the cable come straight out of the wall and tie into the back of the disconnect box on the exterior wall?


texts: How can I seal 8 inch round holes in my siding?

texts:
There is a nor'Easter coming today. What's a quick fix? My first home and just closed a few days ago! Help please.

The hole is 8 inches in diameter or so.


texts: How to mount an air conditioner in this window?

texts:
After years of somewhat janky solutions, I'd like to figure out the correct way of installing a window air conditioner in the window of my office.  The windows are probably not original to the house. They have a plastic frame. From the side, the profile would look something like this:

That is, on the inside, the plastic frame extends up about an inch above the wood sill. There's a second thin strip of plastic that seals the window on the outside when it's closed, and it's a chunk shorter. Beyond that, the plastic frame extends beyond the wall (so there's  not really a solid surface into which things can be screwed on the outside).
What's the correct device for mounting a (small-ish) air conditioner in this window? A lot of them seem to assume you can lay a flat surface across the bottom of the window from the inside to the outside, but that's not the case here.
I've tried something that looks like this, but it never really seemed to work: it was fiddly to install, and never really seemed secure. We haven't had the a/c fall out or anything, but I'd like to figure out how to do this right.


texts: Should I trim or bend the lip to a strike plate?

texts:
Inside my house, the strike plates are T-shaped and the protruding tongue sticks out 10-13 mm (3/8"-1/2").

Occasionally someone gets their clothing caught on the strike plate.

It seems to me that these would do their job just as well if I cut the tongue nearly flush with the wood or bent the tongue far enough back that they wouldn't catch on clothing.

Is this commonly done?


texts: Constant backed-up water from dishwasher drain

texts:
I have read up on existing questions on this issue, and I understand it is a fairly common issue.

Unlike some other people, my kitchen sink hasn't been clogged, and the garbage disposal works fine. But there is always water at the bottom of my Frigidaire dishwasher (model FFBD2411NS), as high up as going up 1 inch over the bottom.

I called in a maintenance technician from the dishwasher warranty contract company, and he checks the dishwasher's drain hose and tells me the dishwasher works alright, and it's my kitchen sewage that's clogged. I remember seeing him unplug the dishwasher hose and water flow out of it from the dishwasher, which according to him shows that the dishwasher should drain properly.

Despite I don't see any clog, I tried some clog remover liquid. I also called in a plumber and had the kitchen drainage checked, but was told my kitchen sink wasn't clogged.

Now water still backs up, giving out a strong repellent odor, and we can't use the dishwasher as a dishwasher because of this. We have been using it as dish racks.

As @manassehkatz suggested, I am putting up a picture showing the drain hose path. There doesn't seem to be a high loop. Should I create one by elevating the hose?


texts: Separating 2 Light Switches (1 is a 3 way) Hardwired Together

texts:
I have 2 light switches (in one box) in my laundry room. The one switch is a 3 way which operates the light in my garage (just behind the laundry room). There is only 1 switch to the laundry room.  I want to replace the switch to my laundry room with a sensor light switch as this is the entry from the garage and we always have to feel along the laundry room wall in the dark to find the switch.

When I pulled out the switches, it seems as though there is a hardwired wire connecting both switches. I assume this is used to get the power source to the single switch from the 3 way switch.  However I don't know what to do to separate these. Please help!


texts: 1/2" Feed, 3/4" Piping, Effect on Water Flow Rate

texts:
Currently plumbing a 20" rain shower (droplets + water fall). Using it with a water pump/booster.

The valve that comes with it has two 1/2" inlet which consists of cold + hot water so it's basically a 3/4" feed.

It however only has one 1/2" outlet.

So my question is does it help if i connect 3/4" pipe to that outlet after using reducer coupling? In this sequence:

Outlet > 1ft of 1/2" pipe > 10ft of 3/4" pipe > Rain Shower

I know bigger pipe helps with friction but it's of no concern here as the distance is short.

My concern is more on whether this arrangement will produce a 3/4" water flow instead of a 1/2" water flow and whether i should just go fully 1/2" in order to avoid wasting hot water that are sitting in the pipe since the flow of the said arrangement is just going to be the same as a 1/2" flow.

Thanks.


texts:
My water has a lot of iron in it so I have a water softener to take care of that. The problem is I forgot to check it and it ran out of salt.

The majority of my house is fine (I have to better clean my toilet tanks still), but my hot water heater appears to be giving out brown water now. I am in the middle of draining it now so that I can flush it, but I am wondering if there is anything else I should do to care of this? Is solving this problem something for a professional or do I just need to keep flushing it out until the problem is solved?


texts: Is it possible to move a vent from the floor to the wall without ducts?

texts: my contractor needs to move the floor vent to the new closet wall.  His plan is to simply partially close off the floor vent, then build the closet wall over the remaining portion, allowing the air to just flow into the closet wall and out a vent which he will install about a foot off the ground.  He plans to block off the airflow about a foot off the ground with a 2x4 framed into the closet walls.  This does not seem like a good idea to me.  Doesnt he need to protect the drywall from moisture?  Or insulate the interior of the closet wall?


texts: Should I repair floor joists that have cracks or holes?

texts:
The floor joists in my unfinished basement of a 1950s house  have nails that the previous owner probably used to hang items on.  Many of the nails have caused the floor joists to split.

I've been removing the nails because I'm not hanging stuff from the ceiling.

Should I bother to repair the joists or fill in the nail holes?  If so, what should be used?


texts: As of the 2014 NEC code do tamper resistant receptacles need to be installed on a GFCI circuit?

texts:
Replacing 2 prong with 3 prong. Want to protect the entire circuit with a GFCI.
Do the outlets I replace have to be tamper resistant if they are protected by a GFCI?


texts: I want to install can lights in my living room. I live in NJ and I am allowed to do this work myself. I was told by local township to submit 2 sets of drawings for locations of new lights/switches. My question is how can I draw these diagrams ? I can just draw it my way but I am not sure If there is any standard way for drawing electrical plans which I have to follow. Does it have to be 3D plan ? Is there any free software out there which I can use ?


texts: There are two black wires on pull chain four white and four black on the light assembly I had to change pull switch a d wires pull off from the ceiling fan there is two white wires a black wire and a blue wire can anyone help figure out the wiring??


texts: How do you apply the Equal loss friction method when your furnace has extended plenum in two directions?

texts:
My furnace has the extended plenum in two directions (one main duct goes to left, the other goes to right)
Do I have to calculate one longest path for each of these extended plenums?


texts:
I just installed a gfci outlet, and its tripping when a 3way switch on a separate breaker is turned on

Some background:

I have two separate circuit breakers, when they are turned off, the following correctly happens:

Breaker #1) Shuts off most everything in Garage (No power to GFCI outlet)

Breaker #2) Shuts off most everything in Living Room (No power to 3-way lightswitches, or the single outlet they control)

The problem scenario:

If I have breakers #1 and #2 turned on at the same time, and have something plugged into the single outlet (controlled by 3way switch on breaker #2), the GFCI trips on breaker #1.

Any thoughts on what may be occurring or next steps to diagnose the issue?


texts: How do I anchor an acrylic claw foot tub?

texts:
I have been working on remodeling my bathroom.  As part of the renovations we have decided to replace our old tub with an acrylic claw foot tub.  The tub is extremely light weight.  I am assuming that it needs to be anchored some how so that there isn't constant strain on the plumbing for the drain.  I talked to the plumber who helped me move the plumbing when I first started the remodel, but he did not have any answers for me.  My floor is ceramic tile, and there is basement below the bathroom so I can get underneath the floor if needed.  What is the best way to anchor this tub?

Here are a couple of pictures of the tub:

And from underneath:


texts: I would like to bolt a bracket to a steel pipe (1.5 inch diameter), with the nut located inside the pipe. Since the application needs to support a considerable amount of weight, I need some kind of washer or spacer that is flat on one side but spherical (or cylindrical) on the other side, to match the inside surface of the pipe. I'm afraid that a regular washer will buckle and/or crack under the pressure, since the force would not be distributed evenly. What can I use to solve this problem?


texts: A contractor came to add an additional hot water baseboard heater into our family room which is an add-on, because there was no heating element in this added room and we could not use the space in the Winter months.  He did this by tapping into the baseboard pipe in the room adjacent to the family room.  Before he installed the new pipe, the baseboard heaters in every room were working fine and the house stayed quite comfortably warm.  But now, none of the baseboard heaters are emitting heat.  They are all cold.  The furnace is working just fine.  He has bled the system multiple times and still nothing.  What could be the problem?  And what could be a possible solution?


texts: Trigger an alarm with wired smoke detector

texts:
I am looking for a solution that would make the wired smoke detector in the apartment downstairs trigger an alarm. The purpose is to be alerted if there is smoke while the tenant is away/in the shower.

At the moment, the smoke detector downstairs is connected to another smoke detector in my own space. It works, but the detector downstairs also goes off if I burn toast, disturbing the tenant downstairs.

I am looking for a way to replace that wired detector in my place with a simple alarm, since it is it's actual purpose. A solution using a piezo is proposed in a comment here but there are no details on how to procede.

Another possibility would be to neuter the detector part in my unit and use it for its alarm only, but I don't know if that is doable.


texts: How can I replace a 4-way mechanical switch with occupancy sensor(s)?

texts:
There is a stairwell in our house, which is currently lit by a fixture controlled by three switches: a 4-way and two 3-ways. The wiring was done very recently and, I'm certain, in accordance to modern code (which may help you figure out the diagram, even if I don't know it).

I started with replacing the existing 4-way with a 3-way sensing switch from Lutron (MS-OPS5M). Predictably, one of the remaining mechanical switches stopped having any effect whatsoever. I was hoping, the second of the remaining mechanical switches will remain in control to allow explicit control of the light. This proved to be incorrect - sometimes it has an effect, some times it does not, and some times it disables the sensing switch (it clicks, but the light stays off).

While the new sensor works perfectly well detecting humans on the same floor, if a person descends the stairs from the upper floor, the light does not go on until one descends to the middle of the stairs - when the feet come to about the same level, where the sensor is.

So, it seems, I need either:

One occupancy sensor with a sensor looking up as well as sideways. This would, probably, be the easiest and most sensible option. It will let me remove the remaining mechanical switch.

or

Two occupancy sensors, that can work together - adding the second to where I currently have the semi-functional mechanical switch. This would provide the most complete sensor-coverage.

or

Figure out, what's wrong with the current setup - why is the existing mechanical switch misbehaving? I'm sure, I miswired something... Should I replace it with a 1-pole switch now, that I only have 2 switches on the circuit?

Update:

So I tried to follow Lutron's diagram linked to by mac and found it easy to connect the sole red wire on the 3-way mechanical switch to one of the black wires.

Unfortunately, that did not improve the situation much. Depending on the position of the (newly rewired) mechanical switch, the sensor either works or it does not.

I'm certain, I mis-wired the sensor when replacing the old 4-way switch with it. Could somebody set me straight, please?

In addition to ground, there were four wires connected to the 4-way switch (duh!): two red on one side, and two black on the other. The new switch has 3 connectors: one blue and two black. What do I connect to what?


texts: How to protect my home from high voltage?

texts:
My household circuit has an effective voltage of about 220 volts most of the time (98% of the time). There are cases when the voltage is to high: 250,300,350 and burns most electronic devices. How can i fix this problem?

I was thinking of putting one electrical fuse of 220V before the voltage enters the house. In case of high voltage, I'd need only to replace the electrical fuse. Is this a good idea? If yes what kind of electrical fuse do I need?

Update!!!
I must mention that this is the box with electrical switches,before the voltage enters the house, it passes through this box.The first switch in the left,goes off in case of short circuit. The first switch in the right controls all the switches, and the other switches controls each switch each room.


texts: I have one interior door that is solid wood (84"x36"x1-3/4") in a metal stud wall with single layer of gypsum board on each side.  When I close the door, and the door slab hits the door stop it makes a hollow sounding bumping noise.  The other doors in our apartment which was renovated three years ago, do not make this noise.  When closing it, it sounds as though the door is bouncing off the door stop a few times.  To me it makes me wonder how well the assembly was framed, but I am hoping for suggestions on why the noise occurs, and what solutions there are to remedy it.


texts: HPS bulbs and ballast wattage compatibilty vs replacement technologies

texts:
I have a few questions regarding HID lamps, their ballasts and their replacement options and strategies. I have been spending a large amount of time researching this subject and I still have unanswered questions.

I am looking for a deeper understanding of the underlying technological designs and principles of operation to have a more informed guess about whether I would be expecting compatibility issues with a confidence of 80% or 10%. (If someone has references to good documentation and detailed principles and compatibility principles, feel free to share)

I am also trying to tap into the experience of others with such technologies to get a broader understanding.

First off, can a bulb of a lower wattage can be used with a ballast of higher wattage? For example, install a 250W HPS bulb into a 400W HPS light fixture with integrated ballast.

I am pretty sure the reverse option (400W HPS bulb into 250W HPS fixture) is not adequate, notably based on temperature levels reached in the fixture and the increased current drawn from the ballast/ignitor.
I have gathered than 250W into 400W HPS fixture could also be an issue. However, I don't have a good understanding of where the issue is coming from.
I have also seen ignitors with wattage ranges, for example "for use with 200-400W HPS lamps". Are those specially designed to handle such a range, what difference does it makes?

Can a different HID type bulb (such as Metal Halid or Mercury) be used with a HPS ignitor/ballast?

Can standard 200W MH bulbs be fitted in a fixture designed for 200-400W HPS lamps?
Are all ignitors/ballast basically designed for/compatible with handle any type of HID bulbs? Even old ones?

I guess modern/fancy electronics ignitors/balast designs are quite universal.
But for old ones, if not compatible, what difference is there between ignitors for various HID types bulbs?

Are special MH bulbs required/exist which would "appear" or work like a HPS bulb for the ignitor/ballast, although using MH gas and technology?

Now, there are a number of more "greener"/less energy hungry alternatives, such as Induction Lamps and LED bulbs. When switching to those technologies, a lower wattage bulb can be used to get a similar light output (example: 220W HPS bulb replaced a 100W LED or induction bulb). Given the answers to the previous question about the ballast wattage and ignitor compatibility, can a 100W LED retrofit bulb (such as GE LED80) be used with a ignitor/ballast designed for 200W-400W HPS?

I know that the final answer to this has to rely on having all manufacturers specifications (ignitor/ballast/bulb) to agree with each other regarding compatibility.

But, when working with retrofitting 20-30 years old stuff, it can get quite complicated to get the exact specifications
And getting a manufacturer to commit to such a statement in the first place is quite a challenge in itself, especially for small installations with not much of a "sale" incentive.
And on what specifications should they agree to in the first place?

I am looking for general rule of thumbs and expected issues if there would have any, to be able to reach some kind of conclusion like:

It may work, but that will be a lucky shot!
It should work, don't worry too much!
It may appear to work at first, although bulbs may get progressively damaged and expected life time of 50000h may get much lower or light output may be much less than expected.
It is a fire hazard in the works, never do that!


texts: The soil over the pipe from the well is subsiding

texts:
The soil over the pipe from our well to our house has been subsiding for the last five years.  I'm looking for advice about what might be causing it and what I can do to fix it.

There are about 100 feet between the well and the house
The 50 feet closest to the well (away from the house) have sinking soil.
It seems to be worst closer to the well (starting about 5 feet from the well)
The worst subsidence is about 12 inches deep.
Nearest to the house, I don't see any problem.
I'm located just outside Boston (warm summers, cold winters)
The soil is dirt with granite rocks in it.  Not too much sand or clay.
The well is located slightly uphill from the house. No more than a 10 foot rise over 100 feet.

When I moved in, I chalked it up to being poorly filled.  I filled it in with dirt and wood chips.  That subsided more over the next couple years.   I chalked that up to the rotting organic material.

This fall, a 10 foot section about half way to the house subsided 6 inches.  I'm now thinking there is a bigger problem.

Could it be caused by a leak in the pipe that is washing soil away?   Our water pressure and quality seem fine.

What would be the next step to diagnose the problem and then fix it?


texts:
So, I am for the first time buying a freezer yet I am confused about the energy consumption.

On the website, it has this sticker:

I cannot work out if it means:

"This appliance will consume 168kw per year"

or

"If used for a whole year, this appliance will consume 168kw per hour which would (168*24)*365 = 1471680kw."

P.S Apologies if this is not the right place to post this. I have no idea where to look for help.


texts: Scotsman Ice Machine DCE33 will not eject ice

texts: The Scotsman Automatic Ice Machine DCE33 continues to run water and the ice cubes don't eject? Help!!!!


texts:
What is the name for a lateral band saw guide: one that guides wood forward at a set distance from the blade ?

I want to cut strips from a long flat strip of wood (ripping rather than a cross-cut)


texts:
Our telephone jack in the kitchen is positioned for a wall mounted phone, and I want to move it to near the countertop where the home phone sits.

This is the wiring when I remove the cover. To me it's a lot of disconnected wires and the 5 connected that don't match any diagram I can find. (blue, red, green, blue/white and yellow)

Assuming the wire comes up to this jack and I can move the wire lower do I just copy the wiring here? Can I find a jack with 5 connections? I'm only familiar with 4 connections.

Thanks]1

EDIT: I can trace the wire in the basement back to this junction of all the telephone wires that just dangles above the breaker box. The wire in question is the gray on on the top of the bundle. Maybe it's time I clean this up and install some kind of central hub where they all meet? (our house is being rewired which is what brought moving the jack on, before I repaint the wall after patching it. It's also why there's no cover on the breaker box right now.)


texts: How can I connect two indoor ductless A/C's to one compressor?

texts: I have one Hitachi i-clean split AC 2ton unit installed in my home. I want to connect another indoor ductless unit to the already installed outdoor compressor. I only need to use one indoor unit at a time.  How do I connect two indoor units to a single compressor - is this possible?


texts: Why do I get brush marks with oil-based polyurethane?

texts:
I’m trying to refinish the above table but having problems with streaking polyurethane.  Using Minwax Fast Drying. The process has been as follows; sand, stain and applied poly using a Purdy brush for oil and following the directions on can.   The brush left terrible brush marks.

Waited the recommended time and lightly sanded until smooth with no visible marks and put another coat. Looked terrible. I’ve tried recommended foam brush, tried rub on method by diluting poly with mineral spirits and the last attempt was with 100% Lambswool applicator. As you can see in pic still looks bad.

Could it have something to do with the way I’m sanding. Used a dewalt sander starting with 80 grit sandpaper and ending with 220. Although on the last few coats I used 320 and 400 doing a hand sanding  just don’t know where to go from here other than Starting the process over. We bought a sprayer today hoping that would help.

All suggestions welcomed
If you enlarge photo may can see better. This was taken in garage and only half of table is getting full natural light


texts: 60amp panel install in an attached garage, do I have my ducks in a row?

texts:
I have been considering putting a sub-panel out in my attached garage, wanted to know if I have all my ducks in a row before starting the process and pulling a permit.

Items to be powered - Table saw (15A), Miter saw (15A), Planer (15A), Jointer (15A),  Dust collection (240v-4A/120v-8A), All other tools/chargers will be less than 4A.

I figured at any given time that no more than 47amps would be used at any given time. (15*1.25+15+8+5)

Main breaker in the house is 100amp and I plan to leach off from a 60amp double pull breaker to this box (all major appliances that can be are gas)...

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/circuit-breakers-fuses-and-panels/panels-and-load-centers/3508603

I believe this box has a ground bar intended for sub panels, if not is there a required size ground bar that must be met for the listed panel?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Power-Mark-Plus-Grounding-Lug-for-Load-Centers-TGL20CP/100153918

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-60-Amp-2-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-QO260CP/100065234

The total run is a few ft less than 60'.

I planned to run #4 AWG THHN/THWN Building Wire in BLACK (lead)/BLACK (lead)/WHITE (neutral).

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/4-awg-thhn-building-wire.html

& #6 AWG THHN/THWN in GREEN (ground).

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-awg-thhn-building-wire.html

This will be in 1 1/4" sch40 pvc electrical conduit dug 18" under ground level.

No more than 270 deg. in bends total (90 / 45 / 45 /90)

The exit point unfortunately comes up at the edge of a concrete slab that is against the garage (its the path that lead to the front door from the driveway).  I haven't seen anything against this but felt it should be pointed out.

Anything I missed or should change?  Any constructive criticism, pointers & shared knowledge will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks

Edit* added photos


texts: Device to detect where heat or cold air is escaping or entering a structure

texts:
I would like to lower my environmental impact and reduce my energy bills by reducing areas where air might be entering or exiting my home.

What type of device can be used to detect where heat or cool air is escaping or entering a home?

I would prefer the device be inexpensive, if possible.


texts: Best way to spread load on monitor clamp

texts:
I saw this monitor clamp crush a hollow Ikea desk:

To prevent this, the load of the clamp should be spread. But spread how? Say I had a 1.5mm thick sheet of steel.

If I placed it here, would the same thing have happened, but this time the crack would have run along the long side of the steel sheet? Does the fact the width of the steel doesn't go past the front of the clamp make a difference?

If I moved it forward slightly, I predict it would have prevented damage to the desk. But why? Isn't the load spread amongst the same amount of surface area compared to the above image?

Would it make a difference if the steel sheet was placed like this? I think the steel sheet would have a sort of lever effect as the centre of gravity is closer to the area covered by the steel sheet load spreader

Does the tightness of the clamp affect anything? eg loose clamp, exaggerated for effect, the two red dots are where the force is concentrated:

tight clamp, the red lines are where the force is spread:

Or would there still be a concentration of force at the red dots as the monitor moves the centre of gravity and adds a torque effect?
This question is not the same as Mounting a monitor arms clamp on an IKEA desk, what can I use to distribute the load? ; that question asks how, this question is more specific as it asks why.


texts: How should I remove felt from old vinyl flooring before installing backerboard?

texts:
I have a vinyl floor (tested neg for asbestos) in a bathroom.  I am remodeling, and plan to put down porcelain tiles over backerboard.

I am able to scrap off the vinyl layer, but there is a paper backing and mastic left.  I bought some Sentinel 747 cleaner, and it looks to be promising.  Once I get it down to the 3/4" plywood, will I be ok using Hardiebacker (1/4") over thinset without any additional steps?  Or do I need a rinse step?  Thanks.


texts: Is there a simple way to lower 0.5 square meters of concrete by 2mm?

texts:
When I did concreting to raise the floor in my bathroom by 15cm, I accidentally created a bump of about 0.5 square meter, which is about 2mm higher than the rest of the raised floor level.
I'm looking for a simple way to reduce the concrete level there.
I was thinking of using a rubbing brick, but I don't want to buy one if would be hopeless.


texts: Removing a leftover oil-burner safety switch?

texts:
When I converted from oil to gas heat, the contractors left the remote "emergency off" switch in the circuit. I've since been told that these are explicitly Not Recommended for gas furnaces.

Is that true?

If so,

can I just remove the switch, splice the wires with wire nuts, slap a blank faceplate on the box (with a note on the inside surface of that plate explaining what was done) and call it good? Or
would it need to be disconnected down where the switch loop connects to the boiler's power circuit?
should I just continue to treat this as "mostly harmless" and ignore it, or put a "DO NOT TOUCH" label on it, or otherwise avoid mucking with something that is currently working?

Obviously my preference would be either for 3  or "it's fine as it is", but I'd sorta like to know what would be the least-effort but officially adequate solution.