texts:
Periodically, I am encountering a very sulfurous smell in my house (1945 construction, interior completely remodeled/renovated in 2012). It smells strongly of sewage.

The smell is strongest in the adjoining kitchen, which does have a bathroom above it.

However, I don't believe that the smell is related to the bathroom. Because of an unrelated problem (poor caulking around the upstairs tub leading to small water leaks into the kitchen ceiling), I have cut a small hole in the kitchen ceiling, basically directly underneath the bathroom. When I sniff around there, there's no sewage smell at all, so it's probably not a leaking toilet or anything.

In the corner cabinet in my kitchen, there is a persistent smell, but not as strong as the periodic smell I am encountering.

The connector to city sewage runs under my kitchen, in fact, directly under where that corner cabinet is. However, I've looked at the pipes in the basement/crawlspace, and cannot see any leaks, nor can I smell any sewage at all.

Finally, sometimes the smell isn't in the kitchen, but in the adjoining living room, which has absolutely no plumbing in any adjacent wall or above or below.

My question is: is there something I should worry about and pay a plumber to investigate, or is my dog just showing me her love?


texts: Sealing what appears to be a non standard overflow drain

texts:
I have an overflow drain, as seen in the picture provided, that isn't sealed. The common wisdom I've read online has been to seal with a gasket, but my drain doesn't seem to be anything like the ones I've seen.

I've also purchased a standard overflow gasket and it's a no go.

Does anyone have any idea how I can seal this drain?

This is the hardware that it's connected to and the gasket I bought thinking it might work.


texts: Leaky bathroom faucet - can't find screw on handle

texts:
Hoping to get help with fixing a leaky faucet in my bathroom. It is dripping at about a drop per second. The water is cold, so I believe it is the cold handle that is the issue (is that an appropriate assumption?)

I was watching YouTube videos for assistance and the first step seems always to remove the handle to investigate the issue. The immediate problem is that I can't figure out how to remove the handle. I do not see a screw anywhere and I cannot find the type or model of the faucet. Below are some pictures. Any advice?

Thank you.


texts: I would like to know what is the most amount of Watts that a home can theoretically draw from a 125 amp system. I know that the formula is W=A X V, but since a home has 2 120V lines on "split phase", I believe.


texts: Different light fixture in basement on pull switch

texts: I have more than six light fixtures in the basement each has its own pull switch each fixture is getting it's power from some where from each room upstairs and I like to know how can I add a switch so I can turn all lights at once.


texts: How to keep a downspout extension from coming off?

texts:
Had to replace a downspout because it was stepped on.  I replaced it with a downspout extension, which is longer and does a better job of letting the rain water drain away from the house.

The only issue I'm facing is if we have a heavy rain or high winds, the downspout extension comes off, thus defeats its purpose.

Is their anyway to keep this extension on when experiencing heavy rain and winds?

(can't upload a pic because its too big)

thanks


texts: Laying tile on a floor with foundation settlement

texts:
I want to lay tile on the whole 1st floor(concrete).
Due to foundation settlement my floor has 1 inch elevation variance from one side to another(but no sharp dips or bumps).
Should I use the highest spot of the floor as a starting point and level everything with the tile glue to make the floor perfectly even(make the floor 0 variance) or should I just apply even layer of tile glue over the whole floor and let the tile have slope like foundation does?


texts: Want to bypass sink valve tap but what is the connector called?

texts:
I want to remove the valve of my sink so that the water flows directly into the inlet of the sink tap instead of going through an additional tap. I'm attaching the screenshot for reference purpose (sorry, I couldn't find a better image on the net)

The problem is I don't know the technical name of the connector. For the record, this is for an Indian home, so maybe the size standards and naming convention may vary here.


texts: How should I set posts for a permanent lean-to horse shelter?

texts: I'm building a horse shelter that will not be moved and am wondering what my options are for setting the posts.  The horse owner wants to use 4x6 lumber for both posts and beams.


texts:
A bracket for mounting a TV was attached to my brick fireplace by the previous home owner.  All that remains now are four little metal tubes, which I think are leftover parts of some kind of anchor bolts.  There are no threads in these tubes.

I would like to reuse the existing holes to mount my TV.  Is there a fastener that would be compatible with and safe to use in these tubes?  Should I try to remove the tubes, or am I better off drilling new holes?


texts: How to connect a 230V jointer to a pre 1996 dryer circuit?

texts: I would like to connect a jointer to my dryer receptacle but I am concerned about proper grounding.  The jointer draws 8.5 amps at 230V and has a NEMA 6-15 plug.  The dryer is plugged into a pre-1996 NEC circuit with three wires (red, black and white) and a NEMA 10-30 receptacle. Can I connect the jointer, which uses a green equipment grounding wire, to the dryer circuit which grounds the frame (equipment grounding) to the neutral circuit conductor (white wire)? In other words will the white wire properly ground my jointer if I connect the jointer’s green wire to the dryer’s white wire?  I have made a (3 wire) extension cord with a NEMA 6-16 receptacle on one end and a NEMA 10-30 plug on the other end. I have no confusion about where the 2 hot wires go and which is the grounded or grounding blades on the plugs.


texts: We moved in a house at Dallas area and the wood post at my deck has a big crack in it, I read some post that it is normal, but if I don't treat it, will it keep cracking. Thanks a lot of any suggestions.


texts: Replacing Carpet with Hardwood floor - contractor issues on base board cutting

texts:
We new to home improvements. We are getting carpet area on upperfloor hallway replaced with hardwood. The contractor cut the baseboard to fit the hardwoods in, on one part we saw 2 hardwoood atleast 3-4 inches extra inside the wall. This wall is just opposite to stairs so we could see it. He says the shoe molding covers it all but I am afraid he damaged our drywall. Is it the common way the hardwood gets installed? or we have been fooled by contractor.
There is broken base board and wall behind this shoe molding. Also having edges of hardwood inside the wall. I am so disheartened. Is there solution to fix this problem? Or leave it alone with shoe molding covering it up?


texts: Would it be advisable to cut a 4" hole on the basement rim joist to install a bathroom fan. The joist size is 8" and is supported by a basement wall.


texts: I want to replace the bulbs in my ceiling fan with brighter (hopefully LED) bulbs.  I can't find anything that says what type of bulb this is though.  The fixture has the numbers E307732 and 48A8 WG-17 printed on it.  The only thing printed on the bulb is "SEC115-125V40W China".  The bulb diameter seems to be about 1 3/8", and the base diameter is around 9/16" to 5/8" (I'm having a hard time measuring the base).


texts: Need help with install for weil mclain oil boiler

texts:
I just bought a weil mclain oil boiler with tankless.

Can anyone tell me the configuration to plumb it?

I asked two heat guys how to plumb it and they gave me different setups.

I plumbed it according to Weil McLain schematic and they said that was wrong.


texts: We had a tornado touch down in our neighborhood last night. Everyones ok, but there's quite a lot of damage. We lost a 2'x8' section of shingles along our roofline and have water damage all throughout our drywall ceiling. The weather is supposed to be clear until Sunday. Should I cover it with a tarp immediately?  We still have all the plywood on the roof so I don't know if it would be better to let it dry or not. How should I attach the tarp? Nails, screws, tape, rope?


texts: Double-pole electric baseboard thermostat wired as single-pole?

texts: I wanted to replace an old 2-pole electric baseboard thermostat with a new one.  However, when I pulled out the thermostat I was confused by the way it is wired (see photo - both red wires connected to each other, and both black wires connected to each other).  It appears as if it is wired as a 1-pole thermostat would be.  Can anyone explain why it might be wired this way?  I don't want to hook up my new digital thermostat the same way if it may damage it.  Note that in the photo I had already removed the ground connection.


texts:
We had a fire last year and had to remove our plaster ceilings. We’re left with beams that have all kinds of shims etc. that were used to level the lath. Every drywaller has had a different idea of how ceiling should be prepped. A few have said they didn’t want the job.

None of the joists are structural. I just checked the floor/ceiling above and it is pretty level and flat.

The floor of the room is definitely not level so measuring up from the floor (one suggestion) wouldn’t work. The beams are definitely not level as they are all different sizes and have been affected by settling. We are installing floor to (almost ceiling) pantry cabinets on one wall.

Would it be easier to just remove the old joists (we would reuse them wood for a furniture project) and add new ones - measuring down from ceiling/upstairs floor to the lowest point of the beams?

The picture with door shows the one beam that has 2.25 change in level.
Thanks for your input.


texts: How should I repair a pvc flange set into concrete slab?

texts:
I've been looking, and haven't quite found anything that matches my situation closely enough to satisfy me...

So, I just put down some vinyl plank flooring, and when going to mount the toilet again, I noticed that the guide for the one of the closet bolts was a little cracked, but I tried anyway. Using the fluidmaster "better than wax" waxless seal, I tried mounting the toilet, but the bolt guide broke further, so this flange just isn't going to work.

The issue is that the flange is under a layer of concrete, about 3/16" thick. It looks like we'd have to chip out the concrete on top of the flange to remove it, then fill the void, then install a new flange at the appropriate height. Is that the best thing to do here? I've seen stuff about putting a repair ring right on top of the damaged flange, but nothing I've seen said that was ok for a pvc flange. (Also, there is a bunch of duct tape sticking out between the concrete and the flange, so I don't know how well that would seal.)

So, I'm mostly asking what the most correct option is here. I'd like to make sure this is as code-compliant as possible, but I'm at a loss for how to begin.

Also of note: it looks like the sewer line is pvc all the way down. I don't know whether that matters at all ...
 ...


texts: Thermostat not getting power and won't turn on fan or AC. Does have power with batteries, still no cooling

texts:
So first things first, I live in a condo. I don't have a lot of easy access to my AC (and I would imagine my furnace? I'm only guessing where that is though it might be near the water heater instead). But I'm really hoping someone here knows what's going on.

I have a Honeywell TH1100D as best I can figure. It's an old thermostat, came with the condo-- they were discontinued back in 2013. A couple weeks ago I had the fan-- no AC, and went for a walk. When I came back the fan wasn't running and the thermostat was completely blank. I found that odd, but assumed it was a temporary issue. It's happened once, maybe twice before and came on after an hour or two. But this time it never came back on.

I took the cover off to see if anything had come loose and noticed that there were no batteries installed even though there was a spot for them. The solution, I thought, was obvious. It's not getting power, supply it with batteries. I popped two batteries in and the thermostat came back to life! But when I put it back on the wall it still wouldn't trigger the fan or the AC. I popped the batteries back out again and went to hang it back on the wall when I happened to notice the fan trigger for maybe a tenth of a second while I was putting it back in and then turn off.

After some finagling I managed to have the thermostat tilted at such an angle not-quite-fully-seated that it would kick on, cool the place, and everything worked. A bit janky, but certainly not the hackiest thing I've done. It worked well for a couple days but suddenly went off. I tried to get it back into position but it's become IMPOSSIBLE to get back. Now, I can only hear a brief "click" of it getting power not even enough to activate the thermostat before it dies again. Batteries still work, but it still offers no control.

I removed the back plate and gave the wires/contacts a brief hit with a wire brush I had, assuming there might be some corrosion, but that doesn't seem to fix the problem.

Does anyone know what might be going on or what I should do to fix it?


texts: Strengthening a Bamboo Ladder (After a Mistake)

texts:
I am a newbie to this so please be gentle. I had some dried out bamboo lying around and for some reason, I decided to make a ladder out of it.

I got one of my measurements wrong and cut out a notch for the rung lower than it should have been. It was only when I put the rung in that I noticed it was skewed. So I cut another notch, higher this time in the right place, where it originally should have been.

The problem is that the bamboo is old and dried out. It is not as strong as fresh bamboo.

The question: How do I correct my error and restore strength back to the bamboo?

My thanks in advance to any and all who take the time to answer.


texts:
I have a walk deck made of rolled roofing material. When it rains it ponds in certain areas. Couple roofing companies looked at this, some suggested sealing the low areas with roof coating material with no warranty.

I feel like tiling could be an inexpensive solution compared to the quotes Im getting. Can i install tile over this material, do i need hardy board? Would that be an ok solution to my ponding issue? Is additional weight a problem in the future?


texts: I have 2 oil tanks:  one sludged up and the other ran dry. I used a air compressor to blow open the blocked tank.  Will the 2 tanks level out?


texts: Any way to mount this diffuser without screws?

texts:
I needed to unmount a drywall ceiling diffuser to do a small fix. The diffuser is a "traditional" stainless still box mounted using two screws driven straight into the sheetrock. Unfortunately the builder did a pretty sloppy job and the opening was too large so the screws barely held. Unmounting them effectively cause the holes to crumble so now there is no easy way to screw them back in. Here's a photo of the opening (note how the screwholes have zero clearance from the opening sides):

I've tried to rotate the diffuser 90 deg. but it doesn't help as the opening is still large.

Question: can anyone suggest a trick (or a mounting kit, or a different kind of a diffuser) to put it back on the ceiling?


texts:
I bought a new home and it had a constant drip from the tub's faucet. I replaced most of the guts of the Symmon's Temptrol faucet and now it doesn't leak when idle. Yay!

Now, however, it leaks when the faucet is turned to hot. A small drip comes from the handle. What needs replacing/adjusting now?

I replaced the washers on the spindle, but the spindle itself is still original. The hot & cold seats are new, as is the cap gasket.


texts: What can I do when the rough in hole in my concrete is too large for my toilet flange?

texts: I am finishing a basement bathroom and preparing to lay down vinyl flooring. Before I do that, I wanted to check how my toilet flange would fit sitting on top of the finished floor, and I noticed that the concrete hole is so large that I will not be able to screw into anything under the finished floor when I put it in. What should I do? Should I try to find some material to fill in the space? look at something to put under the flange to keep it stable? I'm guessing that I shouldn't just screw it into the vinyl click-lock flooring I'm going to use for the finished floor...


texts:
I recently bought a 28' fiberglass extension ladder (big-name brand from the blue box store), but I found that it's a bit warped.  When I lean it against the house, with both feet firmly planted and squared up, the top right of the ladder stands off the house by a couple inches.  When I step on, the ladder doesn't feel overly stable and shifts a bit because of this warping.  That said, I did actually use it fully extended for a couple hours, and I didn't fall off.

The ladder hasn't been damaged since I got it, at least.  And I don't see any evidence of cracks or other failure.  I'd like to return it, but I permanent-markered my name on the sides as soon as I bought it, and it seems to have soaked into the fibers so it doesn't come off with ethanol, acetone, or mineral spirits.  (If anyone has a suggestion for how to get this off, I'm all ears.)

When it's on the ground, I can stand it on edge, and look down the side.  Lining up the two sides at the end nearest me, I can see the warp as the two sides at the far end are skewed by an inch or two.  And in fact, the fly and base sections warp in opposite directions, which makes me wonder if this is just a standard thing that I hadn't noticed before.

All ladders must warp some amount.  How much is too much?  How much warp do other people see in their extension ladders?

Edit:

Since acetone, ethanol, etc., didn't work, I sanded my name off.  I had to go a bit deeper than I expected.  It wasn't bad structurally, but it tore up the finish, so there were obvious problematic places.  Again, since I  wanted to be sure they'd take it back, I just slapped on some polyurethane, and you couldn't tell.

Anyway, I took it back and told them it was warped.  They exchanged it without hassle.  I checked the new one for warp before I left the store, and it looked perfect.  Testing it out again, it feels so much better.  Nice and stable.  Glad I got rid of the warped one.


texts: Can I retrofit a ground wire to my oven circuit?

texts:
I'm dealing with a 1970-built home and the oven has 6-3 without ground running to the oven. 2 hots and the neutral. Got a new oven coming in and want to make sure it's wired right. I could run new wire, it's not impossible but daunting for a DIY'er. I'm curious about running a separate 6AWG ground wire along side the 6-3 from the panel. I see conflicting info online about how NEC 2014 allows this but then there's NEC 303.3(B) that says all wires need to be together or is that only for running in conduit? The oven wire currently is running up a wall and along a 2nd story floor joist to a junction box, only after the junction box is it in metal conduit with a ground wire bonded to neutral. I plan to remove the junction box and run the 6-3 through the floor to a new junction box up stairs with a 4-prong receptacle.
Here's some pictures:
https://imgur.com/a/Asq4c9R


texts: Why isn't my refrigerator water line delivering water?

texts: Bought a new fridge two days ago. Need to hook up water line for ice and water. No water is coming through the copper piping when the valve is turned on. Old fridge water quit working in the door - thought the line was frozen or filter was bad but ice maker made ice.


texts: How to wire half-switched outlet with two black and two white

texts:
I had done pretty well rewiring a number of normal outlets in my house. However, I managed to mess up the first switched outlet I tried to do.

The box had one wire coming in on the left (same side as the switch in the room), with one black and one white wire. Another went out the right side of the box, also with one white and one black. The box itself was grounded as all the others had been.

I noticed when I first opened the receptacle that one brass terminal had a white and a black on it. I believe it was the bottom one. There was a single white wire going to the silver terminals. The top outlet was controlled by the switch.

The problem is I dont recall which was paired with which. I havent been able to  find a wiring diagram which matches what I have. Can someone walk me through how to put this back together?

Edit: so the answer was what we needed. However it turned out when we flipped the switch the first time with incorrect wiring we broke something in the ancient switch. A quick trip to Walmart later and we now have a working circuit.

Thank you so much!


texts: AC unit dripping onto crawl space vapor barrier

texts:
I just bought a house whose crawlspace looks like it was partially converted to being sealed off.  Basically, they put down a vapor barrier and closed off the vents, but didn't finish the job.  On top of that, there's a PVC pipe from the furnace dripping what I assume is condensation onto the plastic, and that's what I'm here to ask for advice on.

The wood down there seems like it's in good shape now, but I'm trying to avoid future damage.  I talked to a couple inspectors about the crawl space prior to buying the house, but I'm trying to figure out which of their suggestions I should go with.  The easy solution is to undo what's been done with it and tear up the plastic, or at least cut a hole underneath where it drips, and let it drip into the gravel.  The other recommendation was to run the pipe off somewhere else or to join it to the house's sewage drain.

You can see about all there is to see in these two photos.  The short pipe in the second picture is dripping down the insulated pipe coming off the air conditioning unit and onto the plastic.  It's a pretty steady trickle when the AC's running.

In addition to this, I do need to re-open the vents (I was told they were re-opened before we closed on the house but they look closed to me) and re-insulate the AC pipe, but that all sounds straightforward.

Any advice on what to do here would be appreciated.  I can try to provide more info or details if needed.  Thanks!


texts: When installing new stud in existing frame, does the stud have to be the *exact* height of the inside of the frame?

texts:
I am about to install two new studs into my wall's frame.  I noticed that the studs are about 1/16th of an inch shorter than the inner height of the frame.  That doesn't appear to be a lot to a layman such as myself, but these studs are going to need to be able to support a layer of drywall and a layer of QuietRock fastened to a hat track that's mounted onto Genie Clips.

One stud is being sistered in directly next to another (thx, Evil Greebo) and the other stud is going right between two studs.  Will the 2 1/2" and 3 1/2" wood screws I will be using to install the studs be enough to counter the 1/16" gap between the top and bottom or will I need to get a longer stud and make an exact cut so that it goes in snug?


texts: GFCI outlet with led light not on but have power

texts: I have a new GFCI outlet with the LED light not on.  But the outlet has power and the load outlet also has power.  The test button works and you can reset the GFCI, but no LED light comes on. What can be wrong?


texts: Can I retrofit a wind-power system for my home?

texts: I live in a VERY windy place. My neighborhood is a new development of your typical suburban single family homes. There isn't really room for a full windmill, nor would it look very well. But there has to be some way for me to harness the constant winds the same way I could buy solar panels. Any ideas? Maybe attaching some small spinners or something around the perimeter of my roof? Has anyone seen anything like this?


texts: How to find out cfm of a kitchen exhaust to be replaced?

texts:
The manufacturer of the current kitchen exhaust I'm looking to replace has gone belly up for a long time. I'm struggling to find out from the labels on its cfm stats. How would you suggest finding this information, or is it irrelevant (when I can calculate the cfm I need)?
Thanks in advance!


texts: Can I change the color of the mortar in my brick wall?

texts:
We recently built our home and the mortar color between the bricks is dark gray, we did not pay attention to it and because of that the brick face is looking duller due to the standard gray mortar.

We would like to put a lighter color a half-white or natural color is what we would like to go to.

How can we remedy this? Is it even possible to do this?


texts: Can holey metal furring channels be reused?

texts: I have some 10'- and 6'-long 25 gauge metal furring channels (hat channels) that have been used to hang drywall.  I want to reuse them instead of getting new ones.  There are about 10 screw holes per 4' of channel length.  When I reuse it, I plan on adding 10 more holes per 4' of length.  I don't think perforating the metal this much will reduce its integrity, but I just want to be sure.


texts: Unscrew jammed plastic screw of sink basket assembly

texts:
I am trying to remove my old garbage disposal and replace it with a new one. I was able to take out the disposal but I am not able to unscrew the assembly that is attached to the sink. The assembly is jammed and when I try to unscrew (the locknut) by hitting with a hammer on its side, the whole assembly moves, including to metal part on the top part of the sink. I am looking for suggestions on how to remove it easily. Please note that I do not need the assembly to install the new disposal, so I can break it if that is easier to take the part out.

Please refer to the images attached


texts:
While doing the waste plumbing my overenthusiastic handyman bore holes bigger than 3 inches (in some cases 4 inches) into the 2x10 joists. He also notched the joist in one place. I am putting a 100 gallon tub on these 4 joists and it's making me super nervous. Besides this it will NOT pass the code.

I am looking to pull out the plumbing from these joists and structurally add the strength back to these joists. One idea is to sister the 2x10s with full length 2x10s (13 feet) and rest both the ends on the wall to properly support.

An inspector suggested that I add LVL 2x10 spanning 1 foot on either side of the hole/notch and rivet it with the weakened joist with Simpson Strong Ties SDS.

I am looking for advise on ways to fix the weakened joists.


texts: Can I Effectively Jump my Furnace Wiring for A Long Time Safely

texts:
So I live in an rental with a forced air furnace. The thermostat that controls it is an old honey well that uses ancient analog components. It works well during the winter for heating, but unfortunately I realized with summer coming on it has no option for a fan mode. Pulling the thermostat off the wall I found that the wiring only has the red live wire and white heat wire running to the furnace.

After googling around I figured out that basically the thermostat is a fairly dumb component that just connects the red 24v to different input wires to active different heating/cooling mechanisms. Following this logic then I figured I could go to the furnace and rewire the connections to furnace board such that the white wire input instead connected to the fan terminal. I did all this and then replaced the thermostat to a rocker switch so I could easily flip it on and off. So far the fan is humming along nicely and things are cooling off.

My question is this, since I cannot solve the problem correctly by running more lines and getting a updated thermostat (I figure my landlord wouldn't like me doing impromptu wiring) is this a safe long term solution?


texts: can I use aluminum stranded wire in terminal screw for installing outlet?

texts: Most home wiring is copper, and you're not supposed to connect it with aluminum wire using a wire nut (push-in connectors are fine.)  The reason being is the aluminum will apparently corrode.  Is it safe to connect aluminum wire directly to the terminal screw in an outlet, or do you need to use push-in connectors to connect to a copper wire and then connect that?


texts: Power in my house is not all working,only half

texts: How to tell what's wrong  with power in my house from the meters outside. Half house power is off and on with no tripped breakers


texts: Running 100amp service 240' to a detached shop. Lots of questions

texts:
Okay, so when I started this project I had a buddy telling me what to do and what to buy and it "wasn't going to be a problem." I was told to buy 4/0 aluminum so now I have 235' of 4/0 aluminum in a ditch, and the friend is gone. lol. Anyway, here are my main questions...

1 - I have bought lugs to reduce the 4/0 at both ends to be able to connect to the 100a breaker on one end and the 100a sub box on the other. Is having a large run of wire, reduced on both ends to accomodate lugs going to cause problems?

2- Putting a 100a breaker in the main house panel to power the shop. I don't need another breaker or panel on the ouside of the house do I? I was planning on just running conduit til it gets in the ground and then its direct burial so just dirt the rest of the way.

3- recap - got a 100a breaker in the main panel. 235' of 4/0 wire in the ditch. 100a sub panel in the shop. Got reducing lugs to make the big wire fit. just want to make sure my plan is gonna work before I get after it. any help would be appreciated.


texts:
I put a little too much pressure on my electrical box when tightening down a new switch.  It was previously anchored by what I believe was overhanging tabs on both the top and bottom of the plaster, and the plaster on the top tab broke through.

What are my options for repairing this?  If there are no DIY options, what kind of expert would I need to bring in?  Electrician?  Plasterer?  Carpenter?  All of the above?


texts: Which tools should not be operated while wearing gloves?

texts:
Does anyone know of any safety organization like OSHA that gives a list of tools that should not be operated while wearing gloves? It has always been my understanding that a person should not wear gloves when operating any rotating tool because of the danger of the gloves getting caught in the rotating part and breaking fingers or loosing a limb.

Unfortunately the safety department does not agree with me and I am concerned for the safety of my crew.


texts:
Just had a couple of questions. I have been in new build townhouse for a month and noticed a couple of things but have been away several weeks so just dealing with it now. Some of this I am sure I am just ignorant but thought I would ask. 4 things each with pic attached

1) Pipe splitting from furnace outlet pipe is just open to the air. I was originally supposed to have gas hot water tank but they installed an electric tank in the last week before occupancy instead. Is this vent pipe for gas?

2) Lots of air coming out of this hole around smaller pipe when furnace fan is blowing

3) Open hole in return air near HVAC

4) Loose ducting that isn't attached to anything. Ducting travels through ceiling to rear of house, not sure where it goes (drywalled)

This is how it has been since I moved in, unfortunately I wasn't here for walk around so my wife had to do it with manager of home building company.Thanks for the help.

http://g.dam-img.rfdcontent.com/cms/006/104/840/6104840_original.jpg

http://a.dam-img.rfdcontent.com/cms/006/104/841/6104841_original.jpg

http://w.dam-img.rfdcontent.com/cms/006/104/842/6104842_original.jpg

http://p.dam-img.rfdcontent.com/cms/006/104/843/6104843_original.jpg


texts: Is it safe to replace a lamp's UK 5 amp round 3 pin plug with a 13 amp rectangular 3 pin plug?

texts:
UK electrical question.

I've recently come into a nice pair of lamps. Unfortunately, their plugs are 5 amp and 250v with 3 round pins (BS546A). I do not have round pin sockets in my home. Is it safe to to replace the plugs with more modern 13 amp rectangular 3 pin plugs? Say, like these?

If it is safe, would simply watching a tutorial designed for replacing rectangular pin plugs with the same type of plug work for stepping me through it (like say this)? Or would there be potential snags that wouldn't be covered?

Thanks!


texts: Process of removing mold from behind shower tile

texts:
Background

Thanks to a shifting foundation, the tile in one of our showers cracked along a corner and water got in behind it.  We know that at the least the wall behind the tile has fails as it caved in when I leaned on it while cleaning.

We have had a few handymen tell us that the job is too large for them, and at the moment licenced contractors are describing this job as "too small" unless we want to do an entire bathroom remodel.

I've had one handyman offer to install a new surround if we do the demolition and mold abatement ourselves.  So my question...

Question:

What is the process for safely removing the tile, wall board and potentially compromised framing elements and abating the remaining mold in a residential shower?


texts: Fence question: bury PT posts in tamped earth, or use HDG anchor? Corrosion/rot

texts:
I know this questions can't be answered, since it depends on so many factors, but let's call this an opinion survey.

Fence will be 5' high, with a 2x4 pressure-treated pine (PTP) wood frame and horse-fencing "panels". Posts will also be PTP, 4x4. Stainless steel fasteners, to avoid corrosion due to the PTP.

Something like this, but with slightly thinner/flimsier wire:

Ground is mostly clay, somewhat acidic (pH about 6.5), not impermeable, but also not the most permeable stuff ever.

Since the majority of the surface area is horse-fencing, I'm not expecting the wind to be much of an issue.

Of the following two options, which would you go with?

Use 8' posts and bury them 3' deep, tamped-earth, with gravel at bottom for drainage.
Use 5' posts, anchored at the base to a hot-dipped galvanized post base, either something like an Oz-post T4-850, or a Simpson CB44HDG embedded in a concrete footing?

My main concerns would be:

Rot/corrosion. Which will deteriorate faster, a buried PTP 4x4, or a HDG anchor in contact with corrosive PTP wood?
Cost. The HDG anchors are expensive! Are they worth it?
Time. I'll be digging by hand (digging bar and post digger).
Warping. The PTP is very green, very wet. Will one of these two options deal better with the inevitable warping-stress?

What do you think?


texts: Garage door opener controlled via generic remote

texts: I have a Chamberlain model 1345 that is 11 or 12 years old. It stopped closing with the clicker recently, but I can still open/close using the wall button. Chamberlain support said I need a new board for the receiver (around $70). I hate to spend that on an old model because something else might go bad soon and I might need to replace the whole thing anyway. But I also hate to toss out a perfectly good unit (except for the closing with the clicker issues). Why can't I buy a generic remote like the kind people use to turn on a lamp wirelessly? I would replace the wall button with the receiver for the generic remote, and then the clickers for the generic remote would "push" the wall button. Has anyone ever done this? Thanks in advance for any advice.


texts: Wiring for Bedroom - how to express design to electrician

texts:
I bought my first flat a couple of months ago in north London and for my first bit of redecoration I wish to get my bedroom up to a really nice standard.

Before i go into picking out wall coverings etc I know I want to re-wire the room a bit better.The flat was built in the 1970s by the local authority. It became private about 15 years ago but hasnt really had a lot invested in terms of wiring or plumbing so as a result these aspects are a bit basic (think water pipes showing on the walls and not covered very well in places). I do know the electrics are safe though and had an EICR done recently.

Currently there's a light on a dimmer switch and three sockets in the corner of the room (nowhere near the bed) with no switches on them. I want to wire to have double sockets inc USB each side of the bed, another set where i might put a dressing table and possibly wall lights on each side of the bed with switches for those and the main light next to the bedsides.

I'd like to get quotes from a few electricians but id assume i need some sort of way to easily describe what i want.

What is the best way to illustrate this to potential electricians? Is there some kind of diagram I should try to put together?

Has anyone experience of commissioning a similar thing and got tips for sites for advice?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I have a cook top, it has a black and red wire along with ground completely exposed.  I need to connect it to a black, red and white along with ground...

I know the red and black wires connect, what do I do with the white one, and how do I connect the ground from the stove top to the main wires of the house?

Please advise.  Thank you in advance.


texts: Yesterday I changed the blower motor capacitor on our heat pump and some general cleaning. Heat  Worked “great” through the night. This morning coils covered with ice. Q.Could it be wrong Capacitor; or could I have wired it backwards and that cause the freezing? Older Whirlpool system. Any help appreciated:)


texts: Is it ok to have a 15 amp 240v outlet in close proximity to a sink?

texts:
Our new home has a dedicated shop space.  I'd like to add a utility sink and the best place for it would be on a wall that has a 15a, 240v outlet on it.  The outlet would be below the top of the sink by about 2-1/2' and immediately to the left of the back left leg.  The wall with the outlet is actually shared by a bathroom on the other side & the toilet is right there so there's currently water plumbing in the same area (within about a foot).
Based on where the outlet is, I'm not currently planning to use it.
Is that acceptable to have the 15 amp, 240v outlet in that proximity to the sink (and if not, is it likely that the outlet proximity to the toilet on the other side of the wall is a code violation)?
If it is, I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to use an outdoor cover box over it as a splash guard; agree?
Thanks in advance!


texts: raise floor level and floor over cavity, is there a better solution?

texts:
We have had two walls removed to open into an extension (340x320cm) and to add french doors to the extension.
We face 2 issues:

The dining room floor is at a slightly lower level to the kitchen
either side of the now gone wall.
The floor does not reach the door
because of the cavity. (And also its slightly lower level than the door)

My thinking is to lay 22mm chipboard sheets over the dining room floor and screw them into the subfloor boards. Where these reach the door my thinking is have them overhang the cavity as it is only a small gap they should be ok anchored into the existing floor?

Is there a better approach?

Photos:


texts: Are there ball-check valves available for pex?

texts:
After some searching the web I am failing to find any available ball-check valves (described on: https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/plumbing/plumbingvalvetypes.html) that I can use with my pex plumbing. Currently I have a swing check valve but it makes a loud bang each time my washing machine cycles so a plumber I once talked to told me you could get a vertical check valve that has a ball sitting in a seat they close very quietly. I know I could also get a spring-loaded valve, but liked the idea of the ball-check. Does such a thing exist? Are there any examples you can link me to?

Apparently this is considered off-topic? For those voting it as such, where else can I ask if such things exist? Please provide an alternative. If you want me to word my question differently, here goes: I have a thermal expansion tank because the city has a check valve at the road for my house and after a shower, pressure would build up in my pipes in excess of 90psi after expansion. So I installed an expansion tank, solved that problem. New problem is that after a shower and the expansion tank absorbs the pressure, if I turn on a cold valve in the house the expansion tank first pushes out some hot water before city water enters the pipes and you would get a short blast of hot water. I solved this by using a swing check valve separating my hot and cold lines in the house so that the expansion tank can never push hot water back to the cold. Problem is that the swing valve is noisy, especially when the inlet valve on the washing machine closes and sends a pressure wave back through the cold side that pushes up the swing valve and quickly closes it, causing a bang (not from water hammer mind you, but from the brass flap closing). I would like to try a different valve that would be quieter and I would like to avoid a spring valve because that would induce a slight amount of back pressure to my hot water lines and I think a ball-check valve could be a quiet, effective solution. Does anyone have experience that agrees with this or a better alternative? I'm not opposed to examples of products.


texts: How can I read this GE type I-55-S electric meter?

texts: Should I just round to the closest number on each dial?  Is the reading 3708 kWh?


texts: 60 amp Fuse box as junction box for 150a panel

texts: Electrician in PA wants to use old 60amp FEDERAL fuse box panel (which happens to be in bathroom wall, less than 3 feet from sink and shower) as junction Box to new 150 or 200 amp panel which will be less than 12 feet away from old fuse panel. I say NO WAY! Wont pass inspection to get us electric turned back on (been vacant) and besides, it is just plain dangerous! Please settle this argument.  Opens in bathroom, literally an arms length across from shower. I dont know specifics if he going to gut old panel. Perhaps thats what he was thinking. I pictured it as running thru old panel to new. But if using just empty metal box w lid screwed shut, it seems a little safer as long as splicing to a larger amp panel is ok... rest of wiring still intact in house  but we would like to upgrade and run new wiring after we get some power out there.


texts: Should I reorganize the main service panel when adding a subpanel?

texts:
I am currently in need of a new 240V circuit for a welder in the garage but my main breaker is full.  Adding a subpanel seems to be the only solution that would be to code, but I have a couple questions on the specifics.

First, There is already a subpanel that is powering the basement, but its distance from the garage makes running 10-3 cable a bit difficult.  Is it ok to have two subpanels?

Second, assuming I could install another subpanel, how should I reorganize the circuits?  Would it be a good idea to move all lighting and misc (15A-20A) circuits to the new subpanel and keep the existing/new 240V circuits in the main breaker panel?


texts:
I'm fabricating a shower curtain rod for a clawfoot tub using 3/4" EMT conduit. The rod will be D-shaped (two legs going to the wall and a crosspiece connecting the legs), something like:

There are 3 pieces of conduit overall: the curve of the D (the main piece), the crosspiece of the D, and the hanging support. The hanging support must be different than pictured, connecting to the ceiling further in towards the wall rather than directly overhead, as there's a light fixture in the way directly above the main piece.
Looking straight up (twine is at an angle), showing how the light globe is in the way (beam runs approximately above twine):

From the side:

The crosspiece and the hanging support must connect to the main piece in T-junctions. I'm looking for (better) ideas on how to couple the pieces. My current design is based around u-bolts running around the main piece, with a washer sandwiched in between the u-bolt nuts and a bolt running through the end of the conduit to join to the main piece.
Pieces (in approximate assembled order):

Assembled:

This involves numerous pieces & contacts:

The u-bolt goes around the main conduit.
The u-bolt goes through (holes drilled in) the washer.
The washer is sandwiched in between the u-bolt nuts and a nut & bolt (in the conduit end).
The nut & bolt goes through (a hole drilled in) the end of the conduit.

Is there a simpler way to couple the conduit ends to the main piece? Ideally, the connection would be adjustable, allowing for the connection point to slide along and rotate around the main piece, and made from components I can find locally. Adjustability is particularly important for the support, as it must come down at an angle. Also, keeping the main curve as a single piece (rather than cutting it and using some sort of T-fitting) is important for strength & stability.
Some other ideas I've considered, but couldn't make work:

Welding: unfortunately, I don't have access to or experience with welding equipment, else I would weld the washers to the conduit ends (creating a flange on the end).
Solder: I doubt solder would be strong enough.
T-fitting that fits around conduit: a black pipe tee almost slides around the conduit, but not quite. This would require reaming out the tee. Also, the tee probably wouldn't slide around the bends in the main piece, even if the tee arms were trimmed down, so wouldn't work to connect the support.
hanger strap (with a bolt running through strap & conduit end): couldn't be tightened, and could potentially snap.
conduit hanger: I couldn't figure a simple way to connect to conduit end, and have doubts about stability & strength.


texts: I am remodeling my bathroom and replacing the old HVL with a new Broan 100HL. Rather than use the Broan switch which has 3 switches in 1 gang, I am using a standard switch and a combo switch. I'm not sure my diagram is correct. Would a hot wire need to jump over to the combo switch? It seems to me that the combo switch won't have power in from the panel, therefore it would not have a circuit to break. I'm thoroughly confused and would appreciate any help!  Thanks in advance!!


texts: How do I determine the "hand" of the door?

texts:
I apologize in advance if this post is confusing. Let me know if additional clarification is needed. =)

I'm planning to install a new front door and am confused on what the appropriate "hand" orientation of the door would be.  The schlage handleset I'm planning to get comes in right-handed and left-handed lever models.

Here's a picture of the old/original door:

On the Amazon page, there's also a helpful diagram:

Based on this, I would conclude that I have a left-handed door.

But here's what confuses me: on the same amazon page, there's another diagram:

This doesn't make sense to me.  The second diagram makes it appear that the "left handed" lever will stick out to the left.  If that's the case, I would think that I would want to purchase the "right-handed" door lever.

Any thoughts?


texts:
I am about to install a vapor barrier in my damp Atlanta, Georgia area rental home. I plan to seal it about 3 feet up the poured concrete walls and overlap and seal all seams essentially creating an encapsulation of the space.

My question is:

Is this product overkill?

http://www.mytarp.com/20-x-100-husky-yellow-guard-vapor-barrier.aspx

Would something like this (cheaper) work just as well?

http://www.mytarp.com/20-x-100-10-mil-clear-plastic-sheeting.aspx
http://www.mytarp.com/20-x-100-10-mil-black-plastic-sheeting.aspx

They are both 10 mil products, but one is more of a name brand / branded vapor barrier where the other is just 10 mil plastic sheeting.


texts: What type of air conditioner to look for

texts:
I'm looking for a portable air conditioner that can be moved from room to room.  But the key thing I want is one that does not use a condensation tank.  I know they exist because I have seen one.  It diverted the cool side (refrigerant evaporator) condensation to the hot side (refrigerant condensor) and evaporated it into the heat exhaust air flow.  I don't know if it used gravity or a pump to accomplish that.  If the hot side is on the bottom it seems gravity could do this job to get the condensation from the cool fins to the hot fins.

Here's the problem I'm having with this search.  What terminology is used to define this?  I thought it would be "evaporative".  But I'm seeing "evaporative" used for something different which requires chilled water to be added to the unit (definitely not what I want).  Apparently it is this type (which I do not want):  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler

I searched for "tankless" but very little matched (and all too large, anyway).

So what standard term should be searched for, or asked of sales people, to get to the right type of air conditioner (refrigeration type, with condensation from the cool side fed to the hot side to evaporate through the heat exhaust tube (for portable unit where the tube(s) would go typically out a window)?

The specifications for many of these portable air conditioners list the tank size.  And it looks like some have rather large tanks.  Clearly these are not the ones to get.  But with virtually all retailers regularly omitting many crucial specification on just about everything, I cannot trust the lack of a tank size specification as an indication that it evaporates the condensate.


texts:
We need to pull the toilet out. Bolts are out of it, water is disconnected from it. It won't lifting it off, Tried twisting it off, then tried running hot water threw it for an hour and tried to remove it again.

The toilet sits on a 2 piece ceramic base (giving us about 5/8"-3/4" space off the floor), we got it out of the way. (thanks to rotted away screw and the other side is broken). We have a little play room now.

So there is the standard iron flange, what looks like 1/4" black rubber gasket material, then 3/8"-1/2" bright red iron spacer(tried cutting it with a hand saw to learn its not plastic.) and then the toilet.

NO SIGN OF ANY WAX RING or even residue from one!!!

Any ideas on how to remove the toilet? or just take a hammer to it?


texts:
I'm replacing the ceiling of a window-seat that was damaged by water. On the wall above the window seat, I've got an area of wall where the top layer of plaster has come off. The top layer appears to be similar to joint compound. It sits on top a concrete-like plaster and wire-mesh. The area to be filled is about 3 inches wide, and a few feet long. Depth ranges from 1/8 in to nearly 1/2 in.

I can think of two basic options.

Option 1: Cut out a nice square hole all the way down to the underlying wood. Fill the space with drywall of a reasonable thickness. Use joint compound or Spackle to handle variances in depth. This seems problematic as cutting through the wire mesh and leaving a smooth edge has proved very difficult.

Option 2: Fill the open space with some kind of filler. Spackle and joint compound seem too weak. Based on What should I use to fix chips in veneer plaster?, it seems there is something called veneer plaster that might be the right choice.

My plan for the open space in the ceiling is to install regular drywall. I will be putting a corner bead around the edge, just like I would for a completely drywall installation.


texts: How do I test a 220v tanning bed without an outlet?

texts: I have been blessed with a tanning bed that runs on 220 plug, which I do not have in my home. Before I pay someone to put a 220 outlet into my home, I wanted to know if there is any way I can test the tanning bed first to see if it works first?


texts: How do I fix an uneven cement floor prior to hard wood flooring install?

texts:
I have recently ripped up carpet and padding on a cement floor for a sixth floor condo unit. I plan on installing 3/4" Bella, 3' wide flooring on it. The problem is that there is a ridge, about 1/8", running the length of the room in the cement floor that will buckle the planks if left unaddressed.

What (if any) methods are there for smoothing this ridge?

Edit: I believe the floors are precast concrete slabs and looks like one slab is a little off level, or it settled a bit, thus this ridge.
Maybe another way to ask this - Is there a way to compensate for the slight off levelness as it runs about 20'? The rest of the floor slabs are level with each other.


texts: Adding extra outlets to reduce breaker tripping?

texts: I have recently changed my attic to be my bedroom, the attic wasn't designed to be lived in so there are only 2 outlets. I have a 500 watt PC, portable AC, aquarium heater and heating bulb and much more distributed across the 2 outlets and I think that is what causes the breaker to trip. Will adding extra outlets to distribute the load fix this issue and if not is there anything I can do to fix this?


texts: My heater pilot light goes on and then off not sure why if does that, the gas goes on and then fan but only for seconds then off including the pilot.


texts: Storm door closer that "clicks" open and closed?

texts:
I have a storm door with closers at the top and bottom. The lower one had a unique locking system - when you opened the door far enough it would "click" and stay open. Pushing it a little further unlocked it again.

The cylinder froze open and would no longer close. I went to the local Home Depot, but they don't have this style. Does anyone know what this sort of closer is called? They did have a "touch close" version, which has a button, so alternately should I just use that?


texts: I am moving my washer and dryer up to my second floor.  I plan on using a tray with a floor mounted shower type drain.  Will there be enough room in the joist bay below to join the tray drain and the stand pipe first AND use a p-trap?  Do they make a special joint for this?


texts:
I'm trying to connect the phone lines in my new home. I have 2 lines given by my phone provider arriving downstairs in the apartment:

Then I have 2 RJ11 cables plugged into to the connections shown above which send the lines upstairs. However upstairs no connection has been made, I just have the 2 line cables. This is the connection I bought:

Now here are my questions:
Q1: Do you confirm that on the above pictures, holes 1-8 at the top are for the left-hand connection, and holes 1-8 at the bottom are for the right-hand connection?
Q2: Do I need to connect my white/blue wires back into the same holes, or do I need to change their position somehow?
FYI If I connect my modem directly to either of the connections shown in 1st picture, my internet works, so I know those lines are good :)


texts: How do I treat mold and mildew in shower grout?

texts: I have a tiled shower in an older house, and it's been a struggle to keep the grout clear of mold and mildew.  I'm planning on installing a bathroom vent to prevent future buildup, but in the meantime, what is a good approach for a good, deep clean?


texts: How can I create a platform on my stairs strong enough to support a ladder?

texts:
I live in a two-story condo and need to reach a spot on the wall high above my staircase to do some handy work.  A ladder is the only way I can do this (I am stating this explicitly in order to avoid responses of Well, tell us exactly what you are doing so we can possibly find an alternative).

A scaffold for a staircase would be nice, but there's no place around here that rents them out for a reasonable price.  I came across an idea on YouTube to set a ladder up against a wall and then lay a board across the staircase and one of the rungs on the ladder, but there's no way I can transport a board of such length in my sedan.  As I am sorta forced to find a way to do this on my own, I came upon the dangerous idea of creating a platform by stacking a few cinder blocks on a lower step and putting a sheet of plywood across the blocks and a higher step.  I have a rail that will serve as backing for the plywood.  Conceptually, it seems like a sound idea, but I am coming to you guys for alternatives that might help me avoid breaking a part of my body.

Update: Since I am in dire need of a super quick solution and couldn't find a PiViT per Tester's recommendation, I picked up a Werner 22' multi-use ladder from Lowe's.  Tester gets the mark for best answer since his answer addresses my question. Even though I haven't tried it, I know it would work.


texts:
i have two single pole switches about 12 feet apart with power coming in to one switch. I want to connect that power to the second switch. I did it using diagram attached. It works. (I use connectors - the little squares on diagram. Used Orange for white wire.). Each switch just turns on/off the light connected to switch without affecting other.

I am concerned that when i check each black wire on switch has power whether switch is on or off and that doesnt seem right. I thought wire going to light should only be hot when switch is ON.


texts: Is it okay to have brick below grade? My house was built in 1967. The walls are brick and block construction. The soil is graded on top of 3 courses of brick. One of my neighbors said that this is common in the area (Maryland) and it's not a problem. The garage is on a slab and the footings aren't very deep. I think that they are roughly 30 in. with the soil backfilled on the brick. The rest of the house is 2-story over a basement with a block foundation.


texts: Water is leaking from basement toilet. help

texts:
I bought this house that was without electricity for 8 months (water pipes froze too).
I have a septic system.
I've removed toilet in the basement and plugged septic pipe (it was filled with water)...
But water is still seeping through that floor hole...

Q: Where is it coming from?
Q: Am I supposed to have a septic pump?

I have a septic alarm in my garage - but I think pump breaker might be off for an actual pump in electrical panel....

toilet pipe
electrical panel
septic alarm?


texts: What thickness of closed cell spray foam should I use on my basement walls?

texts:
I'm finishing my basement in southeastern Wisconsin. This is a poured full basement below grade. We are ready to insulate the walls and are going to use closed cell spray foam.

I've had two different contractors come out and recommend different thicknesses for the foam. One said I only need 1" against the walls, and 3" in the sills. The other said 2" against the walls and 3" in the sills.

What kind of performance gain would I be looking at between 1" and 2" sprayfoam?


texts: What should I do on the sides of a deck ledger?

texts:
I plan on hanging my ledger board similar to the picture described here.  I am going to be bending coil stock for the drip cap and the Z flashing.

The diagram though doesn't depict what should be done for the sides of the ledger against the J channel.  Is there no concern for water getting down behind the siding from here?  I was going to take the J channel as close as I could get and then hit it heavily with silicone but I am afraid that isn't good enough to ensure water wont get in there.

What should be done about the sides?


texts: The water softener in my house failed and I now have tiny beads all through my system. I have poor water pressure with some outlets barely dribbling and these beads coming out. Is there a way to flush this stuff out of my system?


texts: How to make a second story floor fire proof?

texts:
I have a few bench burners on my second story house. While the dry wall has been replaced with a double layer of Type X 5/8 drywall with off-set sockets I worry the floor. Due to the layout of the house and the room beneth it, adding to the ceiling of the floor below is not ideal.

The room currently has carpet.  I plan on tearing it out and either sparying the wood with Inspecta-Shield, which is effective by raising the flame ignition point up to 2500 degrees F thereby slowing or eliminating the flame ingition. (ie. paper ignites at approx. 350 degrees F, glass at 1800, etc).  Or should I line the floor in fire grade ceramic tiles? I have heard that I could line the floor in metal sheets, but I don't think I need to or have the capacity to do so anyway.

What should I do?


texts: Have ceiling damage in daughter’s college condo shower area..can I fix?

texts:
My daughter has had this for over a year, it ‘feels’ dry, don’t think additional damage has occurred. My dear friend owns the condo, has 11 children, and gives us a great deal so I try to help out with repairs, I fix towel bars, ceiling fan wiring, toilet repairs, etc.
can I scrape this off and just kilz over it until she can get a ceiling guy in? I really don’t want to replace backer board on a ceiling. Any recommendations?


texts: Is this caulk not intended for use around my tub?

texts:
I am recaulking around the edge of the bathtub where the tub meets the tile on the wall.  I got caulk listed as "for kitchen & bath": Loctite PL(Pro Line) 530.  I haven't used the shower in weeks and finished cleaning the old caulk off.  Reading the directions on the caulk, two things concern me: "Not Recommended For: ..., tub surrounds,..." and "Do not use in areas subject to water immersion".

I am hoping the first means it isn't meant to structurally hold a tub surround(like one of those molded wall liners).  Maybe the second is saying it's not meant to seal things that would be subject to water pressure, i.e. sealing something that holds water and thus would need to structurally hold under water pressure.

So is this caulk not intended for use around my tub?


texts: Identifying vinyl replacement window manufacturer without Tags

texts:
I found the following numbers between the glass:

NO6797X27b3M

SNEIGCC

CBAIGMAC. WI


texts: What could cause water to come out of the faucet when the shower is on?

texts:
I'm having a problem with my shower.  The water is not all coming out of the shower head, but out of the faucet.  The type of shower I have switches to the shower by pulling down on the faucet head.  I uploaded a short video of the problem; notice how water, when I pull down on the faucet head, comes out of the faucet head and from the seam on the wall.  I do have water coming out of the shower head.

What would cause this problem?  Am I looking at a problem with the faucet itself, or a plumbing issue, or something else?  Do I have to worry about water in the house?


texts: Laminate flooring: Do I need to leave a space between the floor and the wall?

texts:
I live in a temperate climate and from what I'm reading elsewhere, leaving a space for expansion between the wall and floor might result in the laminate flooring unhinging from itself over time.

If I don't expect any warm temperatures, do I really need a space between the wall and the floor I'm installing?

Thanks


texts:
Our basement had always felt uncomfortable during high humidity summer days. I finally purchased a dehumidifier and ran it all the time during the dog days of summer for the past two years. It made a noticeable improvement in the basement humidity, while adding a small amount of heat to the room.
This year, I never felt the need to turn it on. Even during hot, high humidity days the room is fairly comfortable. So I'm just curious why that would be.
Possibly related, but I'm not sure how, is that we had a new roof put on earlier this year and we got a new air conditioner. There's no A/C duct going into the basement, however, and in fact I think the new one is a little less powerful than what it replaced as it can't seem to keep the second floor at target temperature on the hottest days.
I guess there could also be a biological aspect, that my tolerance to humidity changed  since last summer but I feel the humidity when I go outside and my wife agrees that the room hasn't been uncomfortable.
Any ideas?


texts: Should a new basement window have flashing around it?

texts: I hired a local contractor to install an egress window for me and he did some odd stuff.  I plan to have him fix it but I want to make sure to ask for the right stuff.  I don't know much about installing windows but shouldn't there be some type of flashing, molding, and or foam used here?  Any input will help.


texts:
I live in a condo development and our patios are next to each other. Our neighbor recently removed some bushes that helped with the privacy. There exists two 8 foot sections of fence between the patios but we would like to add a third section on a 45 degree angle where the bushes were removed.
The companies that I have spoken with so far   are telling me job is too small, or another post will need to be added and there will be a gap. Minimum labor of $600 plus material.
Question: Is there a way to cut into the  existing post and run the new section of fence at 45 degree angle?  (that is if i can find matching fence).

Hope this uploads and helps...where those small arbs are located my neighbor removed some larger shrubs that provided more privacy


texts:
Can I use a water pump as a vacuum or air pump? Will it damage it or will it simply not work?

Also can I use a water pump to completely dry a tank that was filled with water


texts:
Currently right by the toilet in my bath there is a heating register on the floor.  I want to build a small wall at the same location and have the heat exit out of the base of that wall.

Is there a way to do that is within code?


texts: How to remove dry water based urethane varnish from mirror?

texts: I recently varnished an hardwood frame for a mirror with a water based urethane varnish. My painter's tape did protect most of the mirror's edges, but it failed for one or two spots. The varnish found it's way under the tape. I want to get rid of the spots without scratching my mirror. I tried to use soap and water as suggested on my varnish's label, but that's clearly for when the varnish is not dry.  So, I'm wondering what's a good way to remove dry varnish from a mirror. Obviously, my top priority is not to scratch the mirror itself.


texts: how much damage does window condensation cause

texts:
We recently replaced about 2/3 of our windows with reasonable Anderson ones (vinyl covered wood). We're in Chicago, and I try to keep the humidity around 40-45% during the winter for comfort. I generally get very little / no condensation on the new windows, and a touch on the old ones. With temps dipping into the -20s F this week in Chicago, I'm wondering if I should drop the humidity level in the house to not have the windows freezing over. The new windows are definitely picking up a pretty significant amount of condensation, and I'm concerned about damage.

Question: will a day or two of heavier condensation cause any permanent damage?


texts: Air Filter size for (new to me) home HVAC

texts:
My wife and I just purchased / moved into a new house and I was going through each of the systems and found the HVAC filter, it was literally destroyed (it had filled with crap and crushed itself in half. So essentially we had no filter.).

So I want to replace obviously, and reading up on filters it seems a MERV 11 or 13 would be perfect, I was also reading that a thicker filter can work better while not impacting air flow as much, so I was hoping to go with something in the 4"-5" range like this.

Here is where I am confused, the ductwork must be custom, there is a sliding door made of just bent tin.

So I open that up, and find the broken down filter, which is marked as 20x20x1. However I have a feeling that either one or both of these are true:
1. They used the wrong type of air filter
2. I can use a thicker air filter

Reasons being:
- the actual hole going into the furnace is 10" H x ~19.5" W
- There is a (what I assume is retention tab) tab about 5.25" off the hole wall, making me think that I can use a filter of ~5" depth.

Here are all the measurements

And a picture of the filter cavity interior

Finally, while I don't think it matters, this is the furnace model:

( It's carrier 58CVA135---16122 )

My questions then are:
1. What size filter should I be using?
2. And is a thicker filter best for this setup?

I really appreciate any help! Scratching my head on this one.


texts:
Looks strange but it is only on one panel of wood. Wouldn't mold be spreading across the boards?

There are also a few boards of blue color. That can't be mold can it?


texts:
Laying tile and hoping  to understand optimal sub-floor solution in a 1950’s apartment bathroom. I removed the following top floor layers: sheet linoleum, linoleum tile, 3/8 plywood.  What is remaining: 3/4”x 4” sleeper battens spaced 4” apart laying on 0.5” particleboard, which is on top of 45 degree 1x6 planks laid with 1/4 spacing.
Options being considered:
A: New plywood (3/8) on top of sleepers, ditra, tile. This raises my floor 0.5” requiring door trim, toilet flange spacers. Is 3/8 enough? Do i need exterior grade or is interior fine given all that air space under? Screa through sleepers+Particle to the diagonal sub-floor planks or leave the sleepers floating?
B: Remove sleepers and put 1/2” plywood on top of particle. This puts my door and toilet flange at grade. PITA cutting the sleepers off at the counter edge but another hour on my belly with won’t kill me LOL.
How should I screw the 1/2” to the planks through particle board.
If you got other ideas, shoot me now LOL...


texts: What do add to prop/raise the curtain rod a few inches away from the wall?

texts:
I am about to install a curtain rod onto the wall. The problem is I want to add a few inches between the curtain and the wall than the default length by the curtain rod.

I wonder if there is any item and what it is called (so I can find it in hardware stores). The item will be between the curtain rod and the wall to add a few inches of distance, plus it should be sturdy but allow a screw to go through. Ideally the shape should be close to the base of the curtain rod to make it looks like the extension, but if is not, it's also fine. Is this called some kind of spacer?


texts:
I live in a home that was built in the 1960s.  The switch for the front porch light started to go out and sizzled when turned on.  I replaced another switch in the house that had the same problem.  The wiring was pretty conventional and installation went fine.

The front porch one is giving me issues.  It is a double switch box.  When I opened it up, the left switch - lighted - had a black wire attached.  Then a second black wire attached that then ALSO attached to the switch on the right.  The other wire going to the switch on the right was red. There are (I think three) white wires in the box also, unattached and just capped.  I tried mimicking the exact set up, although it seemed jinky to me.  The porch light didn't work.   I tried skipping the middle black wire that connected the two switched and just using the one black and the red.  No working light.  For now all wires that used to connect to switches are individually capped off and a solid plate installed over it until I figure this out.   Help please!


texts: Why isn't the toilet water refilling from under the rim?

texts:
So last night, my toilet clogged for the first time in the two years we've had it, and it clogged badly though I don't know why (without being too TMI, it was a normal #2).  Hours of plunging didn't help, so I scooped out water and did a baking soda/vinegar/very hot water treatment and left it overnight.  In the morning, I used an auger and it easily unclogged.

Now, it flushes, but when it refills, it slowly rises from the bottom and no water comes out from the little holes under the rim.

What might be wrong and how can I fix it?  Thank you!!

P.S.- We do not have kids so I am certain no foreign objects went in the toilet.


texts: Countering/Filling countersink in a metal component

texts:
I have a metal component on a project. The holes are countersunk for use with M3x16 flathead phillip screws. The problem is, due to torque requirements, these screws are consistently stripping out and require drilling to remove(they need removed periodically so I can check/maintain the component). I considered switching to a M3 flathead hex, but my previous experience shows that they strip out at similar rates to the phillips.

I would like to switch the screws out with bolts or Socket Caps. Unfortunately, due to clearances I cannot use a full size washer, so the fasteners without countersinks do not achieve the necessary contact to create a firm grip. The slightest gap causes the component to fail (this component has very tight tolerances).

Is there a washer or other device I can use to overcome this? I know they have finishing washers for using flathead screws in locations without countersinks, but have not had any luck in finding the inverse.

Note: The metal component with the countersunk holes is prohibitively expensive, so remaking it without the countersunk holes is not an option.


texts: Can a larger joist be trimmed and have it perform as a smaller joist?

texts:
I've got a lot of 7x2 joists left over from a previous project. Now I have a new ceiling to put up but they require only 5x2 joists, so I'm thinking of trimming the 7x2 so as not to have them go to waste.

Would trimming a 7x2 to a 5x2 (or reducing the height by whatever amount) give the same structural performance as off-the-shelf 5x2s?


texts: Why does water surge out of the shower head after being turned off?

texts: This can happen 30 minutes later or even many hours later after a shower is taken. The new shower fixture installed didn't solve the problem.  Can anything be done to correct this and prevent this surge of water?


texts: Attaching a wheel to a metal rod (axle)?

texts:
I have a wheel (1/2 inch diameter) and a metal rod (1/2 inch diameter) [axle]. Currently, the wheel on the axle results in the wheel free-spinning. How could I attach the wheel to the axle?

(The wheel is mainly plastic)


texts: Electrical Codes Pertaining to Electrical Near/Under Gas Cooktops

texts:
I've got a gas drop-in cooktop that will be installed in the next couple of weeks as part of a whole house renovation. The electrician put in the 4x4" electrical box shown in the same cabinet that the gas cooktop is mounted in. As it stands, it is directly behind the cooktop, and will touch the back edge of the cooktop. The wiring coming to the box includes the 220 for the wall oven in the adjoining cabinet. I am looking for either code or best practice suggestions for what appears to be a poor judgment on the part of the electrician when he did his rough in, but I can't find any guidance (code or otherwise) on distances the box would need to be from the cooktop. What would be the best way to resolve the electrical box, which would be inaccessible if the cooktop was installed 'as is'? Note that the electrical outlet needed to power the electric ignitor for the cooktop has not yet been installed either. I have a photo, but there doesn't seem to be any way to attach it here, so if my post is unclear, please ask for clarification.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Attractively anchor a wire cable into drywall

texts:
I want to string a ‘high’ tension wire between two walls, for hanging light decorations on. The word ‘high’ is in quotes because it only needs to be tight enough to keep the wire looking level across a 7' span with a few glass ornaments hanging from it:

Unfortunately I don't think that there are any wood studs for me to anchor into. (The drywall is actually facing iron I-beams that are supporting a catwalk and upper hallway.) Even if there were wood studs, the placement of this wire needs to be rather exact (to match built-in furniture below), so I cannot assume the studs would be in the correct spot.

So, I have three questions:

How would you anchor into the drywall (or the underlying I-beam?!) in a way that will provide enough tensile anchor strength (away from the wall), as opposed to the typical shear strength (along the wall) used by picture hangers and shelves?

(I found this link testing hanging strength of various mechanisms; if anyone has a similar page for pull strength I would love it.)

How would you tension the wire, if you didn't want an ugly turnbuckle tensioner left on the wire?
What is the most visually minimal way you can think of to secure the wire? In my ideal world, I'd tear a hole in the drywall, anchor and tension the wire inside, and then patch and paint it so that the wire appears to come straight out of the wall. Assuming I'm anchoring into the exterior of the drywall, though, how can I avoid things like ugly wire clamps and thimbles?

Followup:

I originally stretched wire between two eyelets and hung the glass ornaments from that wire. The result was not aesthetically pleasing. (The wires were too thick and noticeable, even well-tensioned they bowed slightly under the weight, and it didn't look good to have horizontal wires in the middle of the space.)

In the end, I hung them straight from the ceiling by:

throwing together horribly dangerous scaffolding,
drilling 1/2" holes into the drywall,
pushing a 3/16" eyelet/toggle bolt up through the hole,
tying 30-pound test fishing line to the eyelet,
screwing in the eyelet bolt until it was past the surface of the drywall, and
filling in the holes with drywall putty, sand and paint.

Hole filled with putty, before sanding/painting.

Full pictures can be found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/106711366581540292524/HangingGlassWithDuctTape
or perhaps here:
https://goo.gl/photos/QuhyZXAnFKMByUtA9


texts: What kind of glue should I use for insulation to wood?

texts:
I've got an unusual DIY underway. I'm making my own billiards table (pool table) cover. I started out cutting down two 4'x8' insulation sheets to set inside of the table's bunkers. I had to use two sheets to add up to the 1 & 3/4" height needed. Then I used a 4'x8' sheet of wood paneling (cheap) to cover the top of the table.

It fits well, but I'm having some trouble glueing it all together. I had to buy two different types of foam insulation, due to what was available in the thicknesses I needed. One foam sheet is purplish in color. The other is white foam with some sort of reflective material on both sides. The paneling is not very rigid, as it was the cheapest I could find.

So, I'm trying to figure out a good way to glue it all together. I tried to use a little bit of liquid nails, but I ran out. It didn't stick the foam to the wood paneling well enough and pulled apart. Any ideas? Thank you.


texts:
i have a trane xl 90 . tried turning on heat for the first time this fall. everything works good till its time for the blower motor to come on, then it shuts down and waits a few minutes and starts the cycle over again.
Fan works with air condition, or in manual. Just wont come on after the ignitor has lite the pilot and it burns for a minute


texts:
I purchased several Kwikset deadbolts and they are rusting / corroding in the outer ring (not stainless steel), not the locking mechanism.  Items are installed on a Florida island.  Would rubbing a thin coat of oil or similar lubricant slow down the rusting of the outer ring?

Would a vegetable oil or olive be just as effective as motor oil / WD40?  An line of reason or lessons learned are appreciated.
Or would a spray on clear enamel be more effective?  The outer perimeter ring (workpiece that is rusting) can be separated from the locking mechanism, so as to avoid gumming up locking mechanism
Thank you


texts:
I've read much discussion stemming from people asking if screws can be used in place of pocket screws. However, I have the converse question: if a DIY plan calls for 2" screws, can I use 2" pocket screws instead?

I know that some might say it depends on what I am building. I am building: http://www.ana-white.com/2010/01/plans/tryde-console-table.


texts: Dual kitchen sink disposal causes water to shoot up in non-disposal side, drain connection is horizontal

texts:
I have a dual bowl kitchen sink.  The nondisposal side drain sits higher than the disposal side.  The disposal drain connects to the nondisposal drain horizontally via a tee pipe.  Sometimes when there is a lot to grind in the disposal the ground contents will shoot up into the nondisposal side then recede on down the pipe.  My old house did not do this but the disposal was connected vertically to the nondispsoal drain.  Can this be fixed (no shooting up of ground stuff in the nondisposal sink) with a horizontal tee joint?  See attached image of my configuration.

Thanks,
m


texts: How can I repair these rusty electrical connections?

texts:
When I turn on my air conditioner at the thermostat the vents kick on but nothing outside.  Also the last time that it worked it took a few minutes to get going and was pretty loud.  I checked the electric all the way from the breaker box to the outside fuse box for the air conditioner and everything was good.

The unit is about 3-4 years old.  When I took off the side panel I noticed a lot of rust and found that some of the electric tabs were ready to fall off.

Here are some pictures:

There was a yellow wired that just crumbled when I touched it.   I am guessing that was the culprit but could be any or all.

So questions are...

Is this a normal amount of rust for the inside of an air conditioner after a few years?  The outside looks brand new, it sits under and overhang, and the area where the compressor is looks brand new.

All of the connections to both of these pieces is heavily rusted.  What is the suggestion to fix?  Where can I buy the items and all that good stuff?  I am good with electric, just have never used caps or worked on air conditioner.

And lastly - how can I keep this thing from rusting out so fast in the future?


texts: Cheaply repair burnt / melted vinyl floor

texts:
I left a pot on the stove too long, and it melted the aluminum drip pan.  When I removed the hot pan from the stove, the liquified aluminum dripped onto the vinyl floor, melting it in several spots (largest spot pictured):

A guy at the hardware store suggested I

Cut some replacement pieces of vinyl from under the stove (where it won't be noticed).
Using an exacto knife, remove the damaged pieces, clean, and replace using contact cement.

How does this approach sound?  Thoughts on skill level needed, durability, et cetera welcome.

Also - I am in a rental unit, so there's a possibility that they won't let me remove the pieces from under the stove.  If so, is there anywhere online that it would be possible to match my vinyl flooring pattern?


texts: Why is my dryer taking longer to dry clothes?

texts:
I know nothing of dryers... but my dryer is taking longer and longer to dry clothes.  I've heard this is very common among dryers and I was wondering what it might mean.  Is there a specific part I should take a look at?

I've heard the lint-catcher thing might need to be washed with soap and water, so I've done that with no affect.


texts: Can I remove a wall stud to install a pet door?

texts: We only have one option for a wall that the pet door would go in. After measuring we found that the door would have to go right in the middle of a stud. Is it safe to cut through the stud?


texts: How do I fix a chlorine feeder that's nearly impossible to open?

texts:
I've got an off-line Hayward chlorine tablet feeder on my pool (it has a 1/4" hose that taps off some water from the pressure side of the pump before the filter, and it outputs via 1/4" line to the return lines after the filter).

This thing has a screw-top to seal the chamber where the chlorine tablets go, and it has a latch mechanism - if you screw it on far enough, it latches to prevent the top vibrating off.

This thing is only 3 or 4 years old.

At this point I can't close it completely (it's simply too tight to screw on any further). When last I did have it completely closed, it took me over an hour to get it apart. It doesn't leak, and various tests (unscrewing various fittings) shows that it is working.

Anyone know what's gone wrong here? It's almost like the plastic has changed shape in some way. Any idea how to fix it? It's not an expensive part ($60 or so), but it's only a few years old, and it seems to me it shouldn't need replacing already.


texts: Contractor responsible for preparing the ceiling and painting, neglected to mention the ceiling for bathroom is visibly uneven. 7cm difference from one end to the other. Looks also a bit concave. The contractor said it's not his responsibility and blamed it on someone else. Said best way to fix it is buying trims to cover up the edges between wall and ceiling. And advised against tearing it down and starting again, waste of time and still might end up uneven. Is he right?


texts: How can I tell if stains are caused by a ceiling that is drying out, or if there is still a leak?

texts:
Historically we've had a leak from our shower in our bathroom which has leaked into the neighbour below's bathroom and kitchen (this has gone though the bathroom wall to the kitchen which is adjacent). This caused staining on the ceiling and dividing wall of the neighbours kitchen / bathroom.

Was fixed in Feb this year and the neighbour reported no further problems. We decided to wait a long time for everything to dry out - the building is an old 120 year old tenement flat with a large amount of deadening material (soil, rubble, stone, sand) between the floors so a lot of water could be absorbed and need time to dry out.

About mid July this year we had a leak from our kitchen sink into our neighbour kitchen. This found a path through the interfloor material quite quickly so we are not sure how much water was absorbed. I'm told it leaked through the ceiling although I suspect water would have been absorbed everywhere behind the ceiling plaster, including going down the wall against the brickwork. Anyway, leak fixed.

Now neighbour is telling me that they are getting further marks / stains on their walls and wants me to take down my shower and pull up my kitchen floor to investigate. They have been away for three weeks so I am not sure how much of this has suddenly appeared and how much of this happened while they were on holiday.

To make matters worse, I am away from home at the moment and have let my flat out. I won't be back for about 7 weeks without making an unplanned flight home.

I think this might be residual marking as the wall dries out / water comes to the surface - plaster on these walls is about 30-50mm thick, but I'm no expert. I'm not able to actually see any of this other than some photos so it's difficult to tell if this is actually a further leak.

We've contacted a firm who say they can do a thermal image of the wall to show the temperature differences along with actual damp meter readings which will indicate how damp the wall is (cost ~£100).

We could buy one of these Damp Test Meters, or Non-contact Moisture Meters from Amazon.

Anyone have any suggestions? Are stains appearing 2 months after the initial escape likely to be the wall drying out?

Any suggestions on ways to find the leak if there is one?

(sorry for the long explanation and perhaps incorrect keywords - there's no "damp" keyword)


texts: What type of sealer/stain to use on untreated cedar 4x4 lumber glued together

texts:
I'm planning on making a heavy bench top by using six 4"x4"x6' posts, and gluing the faces together with Elmer brand carpenters glue and several large bar/trigger clamps. Afterwards, I'll just manually plane the top and bottom of the board to smooth it out and remove the excess glue.

For the support posts and the bench top, is there a specific type of sealer I should apply that won't compromise the glue's bond? I am installing this in the garage in a humid area, so I'm using a 1" raised post base to keep it off the ground in case of spills:

And then I will be connecting the top half of the support 4x4 posts to the bench top with adjustable deck support brackets so that I can perfectly level the desk in case the top is flat but at an angle, or if the posts aren't cut to the same lengths:

I am also concerned about the sealer causing an interaction with or oxidation of the metal parts.

How should I proceed choosing a sealant/stain? For what it's worth, would tung oil be a good choice?

Thank you.


texts: Assuming you can go either way, is it better to install a Multi-split or multiple Split Air Conditioners?

texts:
For 2 bedrooms and 1 living room, and assuming you have the flexibility for both options and the total output is the same, is it  better to install a Multi-Split 3x1 Air Con System (3 interior units / 1 exterior unit), or to install 3 separate Split Air Con Systems (3 interior units / 3 exterior units)?

Also, which setup is generally more energy-efficient?


texts: What is the cause of wooden flooring gaps?

texts: We have gaps in our wooden birch floors. Some quite large. We are told that the cause of this was due to nail spacing and inadequate glue. I'm baffled as to why nailing and glue would prevent hardwood floors from shrinking and staying shrunk. We live in CO and had the floors acclimatize for 30 days before installing. Are there reports/tests that show that floor shrinkage is caused by incorrect nail spacing and insufficient glue - I can't find any... seems to be caused by the manufacturer not drying the wood sufficiently before production.


texts: I had a blower replaced.  In doing so, the technician pulled the wiring for the humidifier.  The image shows the black wire is in place, the white wire not showing in the image is not wired in.  Where do I wire it in to?


texts: Downsides to staple up radiant heat, besides cost?

texts:
I'm considering doing a radiant heat retrofit into my home and removing an older forced air system. The plumber is proposing a staple up from the basement into aluminum plates with PEX tubing with a condensing boiler.

It's a big job, so I'm trying to do all my homework. Everything I have read seems to indicate there are no major downsides besides the cost, but a lot of the material out there seems to be from the radiant industry.

Can anyone enlighten me to some of the downsides of radiant floor heating?


texts: Why does my circuit breaker trip after everything in room is shut down?

texts:
There is a circuit breaker that has been sporadically tripping for my living room at night, after everything is shut down.  What could be causing the issue?

The breaker is marked with a 15 on the switch.  In the picture, it is the breaker in the middle.  This has happened about ten times over the course of the last two months, generally 5 to 10 minutes after everything is shut down.

I have read other questions that involved a "loose" switch, this does not seem to be the case.  It requires about the normal amount of pressure to flip the breaker switch.

On this circuit there is a 40" lcd tv, Playstation 4, 3 Sonos speakers(1 playbar, 2 ones), a lamp, and a small space heater that get used.  There are also 4 track lights that are very rarely turned on.  I believe, but I'm not positive that this problem started before we got the space heater out.  By shutting everything down I mean that we turn off the lamp, tv, and space heater, and the speakers and playstation go into stand-by mode.

The breaker has only flipped while everything was in use once while I've lived here, at that point in time a vacuum was added to the load.  The ongoing sporadic issue had already begun when this happened.

Any idea what could be causing this issue?  Is this a cause for concern (do I need to get my landlord out here)?


texts: Replacing a split tread on an old staircase

texts:
We have an old staircase (1900s) and after removing the carpet, before we get the new one fitted, we noticed that one of the corner steps has a lengthways split right down the middle:

How easy would it be replace the step? Or alternatively would it be possible to toughen it up? One person suggested to use a thin piece of hardboard on top of it to spread the load.

I have booked out a joiner for tomorrow morning but now wondering whether I should just leave the step alone. I haven't used the joiner before so don't want him to just crash & burn to make some money so would really appreciate some advice. When I walk on the step it gives less than 1cm. There is no access to the stairs underneath.


texts: Can't shut gate valve leading to hose bib

texts:
No surprise here, lack of use and age has kept this valve (pictured) in the open position. Certainly not going to brute force it because we know how that will play out. Since the basement is somewhat heated (Central NJ), should I really be concerned about closing this valve which leads to the exterior hose bib?

The distance from the valve to the exterior wall is in excess of 3 ft which is unreachable by anyone with normal length arms, making this additionally challenging and ultimately, I want to swap this out with a ball valve, but just not when it's 10 degrees outside with a burst pipe.

Thoughts on best way to approach in the short, and long-term? Or just do nothing since the house is 60 years old, or which I've been here 7 and it's gone this long seemingly without issues.


texts: What do I need to provide the cable company with for grounding, when wiring my own house?

texts:
I'm planing to do my own electrical wiring for a new house, and the cable company needs something to attach their ground wire to when they mount the demarcation box.

I'd like a clean looking install, so I was thinking that I would just have a piece of 1" RNC coming out of the bottom of the outside panel (the one with the meter) that protects the #4 copper wire on the way down to the ground rods. The conduit would end at the grade level and the #4 would come out of it there.

But this doesn't give the telco anything to bond to on the wall. Is there a nice looking way to get a code compliant ground hookup next to where the demarcation box goes for them? Some type of nice looking box conencted to the panel via conduit so there's not just a sloppy looking wire draped across the side of the house like I see on some houses?

Update:

I found this gadget from Arlington: http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/grounding/intersystem-grounding-bridges-with-pvc-adapter/GBB5P which might do the trick. It's meant for 1/2" RNC. I'm interested to know if the conduit that the ground wire is in can turn after it comes out of the electrical box, go horizontal across the wall a few feet to where the dmarc is, then have one of these gadgets installed on it's way down to the ground? Is there any code reason why that wouldn't be permitted?

I'm also interested to know if the code would allow the a ground wire from the panel to go through the wall and into the dmarc through the conduit that the coax enters the building through, as one answer suggested. This would be very clean, but I'm not sure if it meets the NEC requirements in 250.94.


texts: Does anything need to be done to prep the ground before building a low height deck?

texts:
Previously I asked about How to add on to a concrete patio? I am still considering my options and am now considering making a wood deck instead of a concrete patio. The deck would be about 14 feet by 14 feet and the top would sit about 8 inches above the ground in one corner and about 14 inches off the ground in the opposite corner.

The question Can I build a deck this low to the ground? addresses the concern of having wood sitting so close to the ground, but my concern is more about what will actually happen under the deck. Could I have any problem with creatures or fungus or something along those lines making a home under my deck with not enough space for a human to clean out under the deck? Is there anything that can be done to the ground to discourage this from happening? Should I just bring the edge of the deck all of the way to ground, or would leaving an air gap help? Or am I just over thinking this?


texts: Carrier Furnace (6-wire) to Honeywell thermostat --> no cooling :-(

texts:
Carrier Furnace w/ Honeywell WiFi Thermostat
I have a Carrier furnace with the cheapest programmable thermostat (TB-PHP01) that came with my house. The thermostat uses six wires: Y, C, R, G, W, and O. Last year I purchased a Nest E but after hours on the phone with them I was still unable to get the cooling working. A couple of days back, I tried again this time with a Honeywell RTH6580WF WiFi thermostat and it's the same issue over and over again. The Honeywell backplate has the following connections:

K, Y2+L, W2 + AUX/E, G, W + 0/B, C, Y, R, Rc

Carrier thermostat backplate:

I followed the instructions of Honeywell to the letter, as the instructions say "If your old thermostat had separate O and B wires, attach the B wire to the C terminal.":

Wire ---> backplate

Red ---> R

---> Rc bridged to R by metal jumper

Yellow ---> Y

Blue ---> C

Orange ---> W + O/B

Green ---> G

White ---> W2 + AUX/E

Honeywell backplate:

heat works, fan works but cooling (most important for me here in the Texan heat) does not work. According to what I can hear from my furnace it does not even gets commanded on when I select cool on the thermostat. I have followed the thermostat configuration and set the system to:

1 : 0 Heat/cool: Gas, oil or electric heating with central air conditioning

2 : - (this option never showed up)

3 : 1 Electric heat: Use this setting if you have an electric heating system (thermostat controls fan operation).

5 : 9 Electric furnace: Electric heating systems

I have always waited the 5 minute compressor protection wait time but to no avail: never switched to cooling ,"cool on" kept blinking. Does anyone have an idea?


texts:
We bought a house in Northern Arctic Minnesota last summer. After outrageous propane consumption this last winter I decided to check out the insulation in the attic. This summer a leak developed and drywall ended up in our bedroom. After realizing that there was no access to the attic, I made a hole in the gable and found extreme heat. We have since replaced the roofing and a ridge vent. I also have installed a thermostatically controlled fan in the gable. While up there I found that there was only one layer of fiberglass batting... It was white?? Never seen the white stuff before. It has R-30 marked on it and 10".. It has settled to around 7"...

Anyhow, the recommended R-value for our region is R-49 to R-60... The local lumber yard has a great sale on "Blowing Wool Insulation". Retail $35 down to $19 with rebate and sale. So, I picked up 30 bags.I am considering blowing in at an R-30 value over the R-30 batting that is already in there. Should give me the recommended R-60.

I am an amateur and am thinking about getting someone with experience to blow it in. However, if it is a no-brainer, I would like to do it myself.??

Also, I was wondering if I have to do anything special around the soffits/vents (perforated for venting) inside?

There is an older part of the house (early 1900s) with about 7 inches of blown-in cellulose. Can I just blow in some of the wool over it?

Thanks for any advice...