texts: What are the pros and cons of building a shed on stilts on ground that is quite boggy for a month or two in the winter?

texts: The stilts would be wooden and with concrete foundations. The shed would have a plank floor maybe 30cm above the ground, and there is sufficient wind to keep it dry. The area gets little snow.


texts:
I am building a cabin and would like to place some extra form of insulation to pair with the chinking of the logs.  I have seen traditional builds on the internet which use tarred oakum between the foundation and base log, as well as, between each log.  The reason given is that if the oakum gets wet, it expands while keeping the same insulation properties.  Does fibreglass insulation have the same property? Is there any benefit that tar oakum would provide to a cabin that fibreglass insulation would not?
Thanks.


texts:
The north-north-west side of our house has a 2 foot soffit/overhang. This morning we notice that the vinyl siding of this wall is covered with icicles. It looks like water is somehow getting into the bottom metal runs of the soffit and travelling from the gutter end towards the wall and then dripping down the wall.

We are in upstate NY so we have had a lot of snow and there is a 3 to 4 inch block of ice coming out the top of the gutter.

Is this ice damming? How concerned should I be if the attic or the inside of the exterior wall in question shows no water getting inside the house?

Here are some pictures


texts: do I need to bind the edges of a remnant if it has carpet pad attached on the underside?

texts:
I recently purchased a carpet remnant to use as an area rug in my living area.  The carpet remnant that I purchased has the carpet pad already attached to the carpet.  My living area currently has wood laminate flooring.  So the remnant is on the laminate flooring.  Since it is a remnant the edges are unfinished.

My question is, do I need to 'bind' the edges of the remnant since it has the carpet pad attached on the underside?  To me it seems like the pad would hold the carpet together and not cause the edges to fray or shed.

Any thoughts/ advice would be more than helpful.


texts:
The ceiling heat in one of my rooms will not come on unless i turn the thermostat up. Once i do that, the heat will not shut off unless i manually turn the thermostat way down.
The thermostat clicks at the higher heat when i turn it, it just won't shut off on its own. I've replaced the thermostat several times with new ones. I've also swapped it with one from one of the other rooms that works fine there.
It gets super hot if i don't keep am eye on it. It also gets really cold if i don't turn it up.


texts: What can I do about my lawn growing unevenly/patchy?

texts:
I last mowed about 3 weeks ago.  There are parts of my front and back yards where the grass looks like it's ready to be mowed again, but other parts that look almost the same as they did fresh after being mowed 3 weeks ago.  The longer areas are thick, green, and what you'd expect to see, but the shorter areas are brownish.  I have some patches in the backyard that are completely brown/dead and will need to be replaced.

The brownish areas don't get any less sunlight or water than the rest of the yard.  What is potentially causing this uneven growth?  What can I do to keep the grass growing more evenly and hopefully repair some of the existing damage without having to dig most of it up and plant new sod?


texts: How do I connect my whole house humidifier to my furnace?

texts:
Connecting Desert spring Humidifier to the furnace:

Do I eliminate the 24V transformer that came with it? The furnace Keeprite has the the electronic board says Humidifier W1 and C.
where can I find if the board is 24V?


texts: Is there any difference in the type of wiring in common household?

texts:
I know this question is way, way below the norm for this type of place, but I just want a straight answer and not something that I have to try to glean from other places answering a different question.

I'm replacing a light fitting in my house, except in the new one the junction box is basically affixed to the fitting itself, and I needed some longer wires to be able to fit it, the problem is the only type of wire I have is a spool of earth wire, and not one for live or neutral. I ran to Wickes to try to get some other types of wire but they only had earth too, but they did have electrical tape in red and black.

I realise that the wires are used for different purposes, however, is there any actual difference in the physical wires themselves? eg, would a section of piece of earth wire, wrapped in red electrical tape, work instead of the live wire? I assume they're all just copper wire, and the colour is just for identification purposes, but I just wanted a straight answer to the question from someone that knows

Thanks


texts: Need to understand my home electrical meter to see why bill is so high and/or if neighbor is on same meter

texts:
I would like to know how to understand my digital home electrical meter.

This picture shows what my home meter CURRENTLY reads. I intend to unplug everything in my tiny apartment in order to get another read.

My reason?

My apartment consists of 1 SINGLE room, a kitchen, and a TINY Bathroom. That's it. Nothing else. Yet my electric bill is upwards of 370.00 a month. I calculated it should be no more than 190 at its highest possible amount. I believe my downstairs neighbors might be using electric (unknowingly) from my electrical supply.

My entire apartment is so small it only has 6 TOTAL outlets..

My refrigerator & a bedside alarm clock for time of day viewing
Nothing
An unused toaster, I have used it 3 times in a year
A microwave that gets used 10 minutes a month if that, otherwise only displaying the time of day on the front
Nothing

Outlet 6 is the "big one":

A. A 32" LED smart TV
B. A PS4
C. Cell phone charger
D. Your regular every day home stand up lamp (100W bulb)

Extras:
A hot water heater which I believe is gas.

And depending on the season:
Winter: 1 single electric baseboard heater, JUST ONE, in the entire apartment 5 feet long.
Summer: 1 single 6000 BTU air conditioner

That's it. Even if everything is used to excess I calculated less than 190 a month yet my bill is nearly twice that. What I personally want to know is if something is going on that I don't know about. Currently all I want to do is unplug everything and check the meter while that is going on. It will take a whopping 10 minutes to do.

Can someone tell me what those numbers mean on the display? Should it read almost 0000 if I unplug everything? I even plan on unplugging my fridge, everything..

Please help. I need to find cause to get my landlord to act. I could lose my place to live over this.


texts: How can I temporarily fix rotted soffit, fascia, and vented panels?

texts:
There are very large openings in my soffit/fascia/vented panels that allow water, bird and insects in.  I don't have any woodworking skills, and I'm old and financially not able to repair it properly at this time. How can I temporarily fix the problem?

Would you suggest a roof tarp to cover all and over the sides, stapled, until my situation changes, at least for now?


texts: How to remove vent assembly from Kenmore 665.16262400 dishwasher

texts: Can anyone tell me how to remove the vent assembly from a Kenmore 665.16262400 dishwasher.  It looks like it should just turn, but I can't get mine to move.


texts: No Ground Wires - Can I connect a wire to the metal box for ground?

texts:
I want to install new z-wave light switches that require a ground, but it appears that none of the electrical boxes in my house have ground wires and the previous light switches didn't use a ground.

Is it legal to have no ground wires?  Im in Chicago and my condo was built in 2001, so it's not super old.

Can I simply connect a wire to the screw on the metal box for ground?  how do I know if the box is grounded?


texts: How can I prevent water from flowing into my carport under the wall plate?

texts: The carport was enclosed but no additional concrete was poured. The sill was screwed directly into the concrete. As a result of being so close to to ground, water has come in under it about 2-3 inches. I was wondering what would be the most cost efficient method to remedy this problem? Could we put water proofing membrane  around the sill and bottom of the framing studs then pour concrete or cinder block on the exterior, making the foundation higher (as it should have been prior to construction) even though it's only the perimeter that is higher? Please help.


texts:
We just moved from our old house which had great shower pressure to our new house which is pretty pathetic. I'm trying to figure out what/where the problem is.

The old house was built about 40 years ago and has plumbing fixtures from about 15 years ago. The showerhead is about 25 years old and is awesome (named Country Club). This house has 2 - 55 gallon hot water heaters (I have 3 daughters).

The new house is brand new so all plumbing & fixtures are new. This house has a Rinnai tankless hot water heater (model RL75).

At both houses I set the pressure regulator at the max. At both houses using a RainBird pressure gauge I get 80psi on the ground floor faucet at the old house and 81psi at the new house. On the second floor shower I get 76psi at the old house and 75psi at the new house. So that appears equivalent.

Please note all measurements below are off the pipe out the wall, not the shower head.

The problem appears to be two things.

First, with the shower head off, the old house shower delivers 5gal/min (hot) while the new house it's 2.86gal/min (warm) & 2.67gal/min (hot). The warm/hot is setting the Rinnai to 106/140 and setting the valve to the middle/mostly hot.

And at the new house the ground floor outside faucet only delivers 3.43gal/min.

Why such a difference in water delivered? The pressure is the same. In both cases nothing else was using water at the time. And the fixtures all use 1/2" lines so even if it's 3/4" up to the fixture, it's 1/2" from there. So shouldn't both be delivering the same volume?

Second problem. At the old house I would put the valve pretty much even between hot & cold to shower. At the new house, with the Rinnai set to 140, I still have it about 90% of the way to full hot.

So what is my main problem? I think the first problem is getting 5gal/min. As the outdoor faucet doesn't hit that I don't think the hot water heater is a part of that problem. But what/why/how do we not get that when the pressure is the same?

And then do I need a hot water heater that can deliver 5 gal/min at 140 to have the shower be half hot/half cold to get the full pressure?

Edit: As one of the comments pointed out, my question is really how do I increase the volume. And one thing I don't understand, if 2 1/2" pipes both have the same pressure, shouldn't they deliver the same volume?

Update: With the shower head on I get exactly 2 gal/min while the shower head is spec-ed at 2.5 gal/min. And what I want is a shower that pushes me against the wall. One of my greatest joys is a super hot shower that blasts me.


texts: What is the explicit difference between the ground and neutral wire in 110V systems?

texts:
So, I've put in or replaced several outlets following wiring instructions online and in the box. Nothing big. I know that if I fail to turn off the breaker then I shouldn't directly touch the black wire, but touching the white wire or the bare copper wire is fine.

From this, I know that the black wire is the supply, power is flowing from it, and will happily flow into me. Since neither the white wire nor the bare copper wire shock me, I don't know the difference between the two, other than "Power flows into these once a circuit is completed" So what is the difference, in detail, between the neutral and the ground connectors in 110V applications?


texts: How can I alter a chimney to make the smoke rise higher?

texts:
We have a neighbor who loves their fireplace.  Every day the temperature drops below 60 or so, there's a fire.  I love fires, but we smell every one, and don't benefit from the heat :-).  The chimney is four feet from our property line, and the smoke always seems to waft horizontally or down, entering our bedroom and sometimes the back yard.

The fireplace is an EPA registered insert with fan, and they burn fairly fragrant wood. The flue is metal and appears to be 4" in diameter with a metal cap.

They are willing to let me extend the chimney up, perhaps 8 feet.  Would this help?  Is there a way to raise flue temperature so the smoke rises higher and misses our property?


texts: Why does my shower switch keep burning out?

texts:
I have a Mira Shower 10.8 kW.

My switch is a 45A switch.  I have a 50A fuse for the shower.  The shower uses 10mm2 cable.

9 months ago the switch sparked and refused to turn off and the fuse tripped.  Opening up the switch, the cables were black and burnt.  I replaced the switch.  9 months on and it's happened again.

I know you're probably supposed to cut the cable and expose copper but I have no length left so I'll have to clean it with a wire brush and replace the switch.

Why does this keep happening though?


texts: Two TVs and two satellite TV receivers Blown in three months

texts:
My home has a good grounding using underground copper plates. In three months I lost two TVs (Phillips old tube type) and the satellite receiver boxes attached to each. Both TVs had the Audio/Video Out sections on the main boards burnt out, while one receiver had its  Audio/Video Out section blown.

Some facts:
1) Both receivers connected to the same 8 foot dish with a dual output LNB
2) Both TVs were fed by the same TV Cable(Coax) using a splitter at the main line.
3) TV cable (Coax)sometimes shows voltages as high as 12 VAC. The main line Coax when removed from coax showed 24 volts yesterday, the splitter dropped it 12 VAC

The technician said the Audio Video sections blow out due to volatages from Dish induced by lightening, but the Tuner section  of the receiver where the satellite cable enters the receiver is OK. Howcome Audio Video of both the TV and the satellite receiver get burnt at the same time.Where can be the source of burning voltage. I have new TV but will not connect to Cable Tv of satellite receiver unltil the problem source is identified. Please help in this regard soon so that I can watch TV.


texts: Can I install a trip lever drain on a new tub that doesn’t currently use one?

texts: I have a brand new tub. How can I tell if I can install a trip style drain? Right now we are just using a plug and the faceplate doesn’t have a lever. I was reading online that these drains aren’t always compatible.


texts: How to post mount flood light security lights

texts:
I am trying to add some light for security and visibility in our backyard that serves as a parking lot. The area where I'd like to install a light fixture is in the back corner of our yard opposite of our home. This means I'll need a post of some kind to attach it to. From what I can see these types of lights are meant to attach to a junction box that is on some outside wall of a home. I can't seem to find pole mount options for this type of motion sensor activated security light:

Can anyone enlighten me on how to attach this to a pole? I was hoping to avoid installing a very wide diameter wooden pole where I could run PVC conduit along the side to an exterior grade conduit junction box attached toward the top of the pole. Namely, because that starts to look unsightly. I'm looking for something that floods the area with light but also isn't an eyesore.


texts: We have a rec room (basement) from the 60's that we are redoing.  Currently on the outside walls, they have 1 x 2 studding then 1/2 inch white styrofoam then vapour barrier.  WE are wondering if we can remove the plastic vapour barrier and stud over what is there with 2 x 4 then use Roxul Comfort batts?  Wasn't sure if there would be an issue with putting the Roxul over the styrofoam.  As this is the old type of styro I doubt if would have much, if any R value but does anyone know for sure


texts: Can new cable be run from switch to ceiling?

texts:
I'm installing a new bathroom exhaust fan in a first floor bathroom.  I removed the old fan, and have the new one, but here's the problem...

The cable is coming out of a joist and the wiring is too short.  The wiring in the fan came out of the fan on the joist side.  The new fan has the wiring coming out of the fan on the opposite side.  It's the same side as the wiring, just on the opposite corner further away.

I figure I have two options... call an electrician and have them run a new wire to a new switch, or get into the wall to do it myself.  The room is being painted, so if any drywall repair needs done it's no big deal.  But if I end up going into the drywall myself, who knows what other problems I could run into.

Any suggestions?

If that cable was 6-8 inches longer, it would make it to the housing for the connection, which would be to the far left in the picture.  Or if I could find a fan that had the electrical connection on the joist side instead of opposite the joist.


texts: My father in-laws wife plugged a brand new air conditioning window unit I with a small extension cord and she said it ran for just a moment and then cut off. And it has not turned on again. Does anyone know what the problem is and can I fix whatever is wrong with it. It's brand new and I sure could use the help. Thanks


texts: Is it safe to clamp an angle grinder and bring the work to the tool?

texts:
I’ve got a hand-held angle grinder (Makita LXT, 5”).
I’m using a wire brush in it to finish a long thin bit of steel (rectangular profile, about 3ft long, 5x15mm tapering to 5x5mm - it’s a sword blade, but it’s not sharp, so that’s probably not relevant)

It’s proving difficult to clamp the workpiece as it’s very thin. (Before everyone suggests ways to clamp it - I’ve got a metalwork vice, but I’ve not got anywhere to fit it outside where I use the grinder, so I’m using g-clamps. Also clamping round the part I’m working on means the grinder is mainly in contact with the clamp, which wastes effort and makes controlling the grinder harder. It’s difficult to grind beyond where it’s clamped as it resonates. So the most effective method has been clamping either side of the part I’m working on, but this is difficult).

I think it’d be easier if the grinder was fixed, and I brought the work piece to the grinder - I’d be able to hold it either side of the part I’m working on, and to feel the movement of the workpiece and compensate.

However, I’m conscious that this isn’t what the tool was designed for, but I know bench grinders do exist (I don’t have a bench grinder), and I think they give more control (which i presume is why they’re used for sharpening knives etc). Is this approach safe? If so, are there any precautions I should take?


texts: Removing cracked grout without damaging tile and granite

texts: How and what tools would I need to remove grout without damaging the tile backsplash and granite countertop. The cabinet has settled and crack appears on the whole length of the countertop was installed 10 yrs ago.


texts: TV antenna far from box - how to ground?

texts:
Following under the eaves of the house it is about 70 feet to the box. This seems a long way for a good ground connection. A shortcut through the attic is possible but the room closest to the box has a vaulted ceiling with no attic above it.
There is a much closer location that was where the house's original box was. Any likelihood that the defunct box (now full of  nest of wires) has a proper connection to ground?
Another option might be a cold water spigot that is quite close to the antenna.
EDIT
I can change to location of the antenna to the analogous spot on the opposite side of the house. It will be a 40 ft straight shot to the spot (below) where the cable box ground is.
Adding two pic of connections to water pipe.
Primary connection

nearby second connection of gnd for cable box

What is in the spot of the original box

The new box environment


texts: How do I go from 1 copper propane line to 5 propane lines? Do they make a splitter like cable tv does?

texts: Do they make a copper propane line splitter like cable tv. I nee to go from 1 line to 5


texts: Does polymeric sand make patio repairs impossible?

texts:
One of the contractors bidding on my concrete-paver patio said that using polymeric sand between pavers makes repairs impossible. I will need to make small repairs to this patio since the posts of an existing shade structure will someday need replacement.

Is it true that polymeric sand will make repairs very difficult or impossible?


texts: My house has a pressure reducing valve.  I wish I had a bit more water pressure. Can I adjust this thing?


texts: How do I make our toilet flush less vigorously?

texts: Our toilet flushes so vigorously that water splashes out of the top of it. Is there a way I can "tune" the flush so that it doesn't flush so hard?


texts: Can too much ridge ventilation be detrimental?

texts:
At my house in central Texas, where temperatures can persist at 86 - 110 degrees Fahrenheit, one side is always hot, no matter how long the A/C runs. That attic space is considerably hotter than other locations.

Attic ventilation includes:

twenty-two 16x8 soffit vents
two 10' runs of plastic ridge vent
three stack vents

For better or worse, the ridge vents do not have a filter underneath and are covered with shingles.

According to the web, such as this website, 20' is the minimum requirement and the 22 soffit vents balance appropriately.

Will it help to install additional ridge and soffit vent? or will that disrupt current circulation?

UPDATE:
The ridge vents are actually 8 ft. long (not 10') and only 5 ft. of that are actually exposed. 1.5 ft. on either side of the ridge vents are covered over by shingles.


texts:
I had an electrician come out to install a sub-meter. The city has not sent me a meter box, not sure why this was done out of order, so the electrician could not actually finish the line. This meter only runs a NEMA 14-50.

Can I install jumpers to complete the circuit until I actually receive the meter? What type of jumpers would I need. I'll be pulling ~15amps off this line when in use.


texts:
In my living room I had two metal return vents which are both 14 x 12 = 168 square inches, not including the vent slats which are narrow.

As part of a renovation one of those vents is being replaced by a wooden grill, that dues to the limitations of working with wood, has less surface area. If I count up all the holes in the wooden grill, it comes to 62 square inches of hole.

Should I be concerned about this reduction in return vent size?


texts: Can I follow shellac with polyurethane (water-based or oil)?

texts:
I just finished building kitchen cabinets out of African mahogany. I am ready to finish the project and I would really like to not screw it up. I'm wanting to use an oil-base penetrating stain and follow that with a coat or two of amber shellac, which lends it a beautiful luster, and then clear shellac if it is becoming too dark. I love working with shellac, but my concern is whether it will be durable enough for kitchen cleanups. Another concern is whether it will stand up to the heat adjacent to the stove.

What my plan is is to use the shellac and then, if I have problems, cover the shellac with water-based polyurethane. (If It does not stand up to the heat, I can remove it easily enough with alcohol before the poly.)  I know shellac works as a sealer for polyurethane and as a transition layer between poly and something with which it is not compatible.
Does this sound like a viable plan?


texts: workaround for ground anchor settling in clay

texts:
We have a sun room built by a contractor for which building plans had to be approved by the city and a professional engineer.  The room is about 12' x 12' and attached to the house.  It sits on a wooden box frame on top of 4 ground anchors that sit in heavy, heavy clay.

Five years after construction one of the windows has lost it's seal and there is a point of movement between two drywall sheets.  I patched the area between the two drywall sheets but a week later the crack is back!

I believe that the ground anchors are moving just a little bit due to the clay and the temperature range of -40 deg F to + 90 deg F range that we get in a year.

It's too late to do anything with the anchors as they are boxed in. There is siding covering the exterior of the box and wire mesh from there to the ground to keep animals out.

Is there anything that can be done for the drywall or a new window that would tolerate slight movements?

From the pictures it looks like they put in two ground screws and then attached the box to the concrete foundation of the house.


texts:
Replacing our 10-year-old TV with a newer TV. The caveat is, I must use the existing wall mount (due to custom stone-work):

Now the older TV bracket works well for the 600x400mm VESA dimensions:

The problem is the newer TV is much lighter and uses the smaller 300x200mm VESA dimensions.

My fear is the current bracket will ill-fit the newer TV - with the vertical bars being quite close together and creating a less stable hang.

Is there VESA mounting plates that can interface from a newer TV's smaller smaller VESA pattern to a larger (older mounts) dimensions? I'm finding it difficult to find the right search terms for such an adapter plate.

Another option is a bracket built for this specific TV - but that can hang on the older mounts hook. In the following photo, the bracket (highlighted in red) is attached to the TV - hangs on the mount-arm (highlighted in blue) that is attached to the wall-mount:

Are these types of brackets still common? And could a compatible one be purchased for the older wall mount?

Since the mount is 10 years old, the website/product are no longer active, but in my emails its lists as

  "Eco-Mount Multi Position Dual Arm TV Mount (25 - 40" Screens)
  (EL404B-A)"


texts: Replacing both 3-way switches I found 2 hot wires one in each box

texts: Since the new switches were not same make\model as the old ones I had to remove both switches (6 wires) and test for the hot wire and I found 1 hot wire in each to the 2 boxes.  Now what?  It seems which ever way I install only one switch truly controls the light.  Let me say again, there is a hot wire at the top of the stairs and a hot wire at the bottom of the stairs and one light half-way up the stairs.


texts: Why are my clothes hot after washing them?

texts: My new LG frontload washer leaves my clothes HOT after each cycle. The hot water valve has been turned off and it is still leaving them hot. Any suggestions?


texts: Should we cover weep holes with wire mesh?

texts: We just bought our first home and we had advice some friends that we should cover the weep holes with wire mesh, to prevent bugs and other things from going inside. Is that a good idea? Please advise.


texts: Can I use a small propane instant hot water heater for a clothes washer?

texts:
I would like to set up a clothes washer in a location that has only cold water. (It will be in a makeshift shed of some kind, with a hose and an extension cord.)

I could just wash everything in cold for a while, but I was thinking of getting a small, cheap propane hot water heater. These are designed to produce a relatively small flow, for a single fixture, like a shower. A washer uses a lot of water, but it should be fine if the flow is low - it will just take a while for the machine to fill up. Is this OK?

For example, Eccotemp L5, $120 on Amazon


texts: Higher waterpressure through one 40mm pipe or two 32mm pipes?

texts:
I have a small field I need to water, it is 100m away from my water outlet.
My water pressure is somewhere around 1.5bar. I have two options to connect the sprinkler on the field:

A. 40mm pipe (40mm is outer diameter, wall thickness is 3.7mm)

B. two 32mm pipes connected in parallel (30mm with 3mm wall thickness)

Which solution will give a higher water pressure at the sprinkler?


texts: Goodman gas furnace limit switch opening, blower only runs with a/c

texts:
I apologize in advance for some of my incorrect terminology. My father has a 2004 Goodman GMH80904BN gas furnace with a/c. The a/c has functioned properly all summer here in Ohio, we have recently had some cooler nights and when attempting to switch from cool to heat and setting the thermostat well above the current temperature. The thermostat calls for heat, the exhaust/flue fan starts and shortly after the igniter glows and ignites the gas.The fire continues to burn for roughly a minute and then the gas shuts off while the exhaust/flue fan continues to run. Throwing a trouble blink code (4 flashes) which indicates High limit open.

This all makes perfect sense that the high limit would open because at no time does the furnace blower attempt to run. Now the blower does function fine when thermostat is set to cool or off with fan set to on.

To be safe, I replaced the filter.
We disconnected the vent pipe/flue to ensure there was no debris.

Checked for continuity at the high limit switch while it was hot/open (no) and again after it had cooled/closed (yes).

Purchased new thermostat to rule out the existing one as faulty. The new stat produced the same symptoms.

I was told the pcb was replaced at the very most 5 years ago along with a new blower motor when furnace was serviced.

Its my understanding that the blower in this furnace is controlled by the pcb and i'm beginning to fear the pcb has failed again. I attempted switching the fan from auto to on while also switching to heat. The blower was on, the vent motor also turned on. Furnace ignited, blower continued to run for about 30 seconds at which the blower the shut off and then after a short period of time the limit switch opened again and everything shut down.

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully my attempt at being through will help someone with the proper knowledge point me in the right direction & we can finally put this problem behind us. Any help is greatly appreciated! God Bless


texts: Does crossbar need to be flush against junction box?

texts: I have a question regarding installing a chandelier light fixture in my apartment. The light fixture I bought came with a standard crossbar and I originally screwed it flush into the junction box. However, in doing so, the crossbar became too deep and the I couldn't attach the canopy. To remedy this issue, I basically unscrewed the crossbar about halfway to accommodate the depth so that the canopy would screw tight. My question is if this is safe...does the crossbar need to be tightly attached to the junction box or can it be tightened halfway as I'm describing? I pulled on the crossbar lightly to see if it would hold and it seemed to be fine, but I want to be sure this is safe.


texts: What did my hardwood installer do wrong here?

texts:
Long story short, my installer didn't rack my beautiful reclaimed wood floor.  He had tons of light pieces grouped together.  I asked him to remove the light pieces and patch in the darker pieces I had ordered as extra.  They had already applied one layer of oil based poly when I asked him to do this.  They broke out the board, cut the groove off and put in the new board.  The repair looked great.  They sanded the board (they did not tape it off) and it appears they overlapped the sanding on the other boards.  They reapplied poly to the area.  Then they buffed the entire floor and applied another coat of poly.  It looked amazing.  I woke up this morning and now I have this on every single area where they patched the board.

There are also tiny half moon circular spins under the poly, is that the buffer they used when it hadn't dried? Is it the sander?

How do I give them good direction and get this fixed?

More images


texts: What sort of nails should I be using on Sheet Vinyl underlayment?

texts:
I'm adding some Vinyl down in a shower room and nailed down the underlayment.   But the nails keep popping up a little evey time I add more nails.

I'm concerned these will be felt under the vinyl.

The vinyl does have a felt backing though.

Should I be using a different type of nail?

And now that I've nailed it all down how do I get them out without damaging the floor assuming they need to be changed? I've managed to pull 2 out.

This is the vinyl.  It does have a slight cushioning with the felt backing.   I do think some of the nails didn't go firmly in.   They might have gone between the joins in the tongue and groove.  But I'm not certain.


texts: I hope you can give me a few suggestions with this one. We have a hunter ceiling fan that is wall switch connected for master power.  This spring it started having a few issues.  This fan is remote controlled with no external pull strings or controls other than the remote. The problem is that the fan is intermittent. When the wall switch is placed on the light comes on, which means it has power.  That can be turned off with the remote.  Using the remote 80% of the time you can get the fan to move in low and medium settings but never in the high setting.  The reverse switch will also work on the remote, changing the fan direction.  Sometimes the fan will not work at all.  When this happens you can sometimes get it to work by selecting low or medium fan speed and reversing the direction. Any time the remote switches are used you can hear the switches in the fan actuating including when you use the high power setting, but the fan will not spin. For that reason I do not think this is a power supply or remote issue.  I think this may be a solid state issue with the fan motor.  Rather replacing the whole thing, does anyone have any suggestions?


texts:
I am diagnosing my well line electrics. I have a non-contact voltage detector. At about 10" from the box, it shows live, and after that dead. Oddly, on the other side of the wire, the live signal extends perhaps another 8" past that, then dies. Visual inspection reveals an intact sheathing. Everything upstream checks out with the tester. When the breaker is shut off, everything goes dead, so it appears not to be secondary wire interference.
How common is a wire break in (I believe) 12/2 cable. It's 220V for a submersible well pump.
Any help is appreciated. Shall I cut the wire at the break and install a junction?
Is there an easier test without cutting the cable?


texts: What would cause the ceiling fan light to blink or shut off?

texts: The ceiling fan is over 30 years old worked flawlessly until now, light either blinks or shuts off altogether. But, when you turn the wall switch off then back on it lights up no problem for days, then back to it. Also, the wall switch has been replaced thinking it was the culprit, but to no avail... This fan is in my elderly mother's home, which she will be 90 in Dec. But the fan is in the kitchen above the table ...


texts: Is this a weird or very problematic shared neutral?

texts:
I will try to explain it and I made a drawing that give an idea of what it seems to look like.
I just had some work done on my house (built in 1967) and the electrician found this weird connection.
I have a 14/3 wire going to an outlet in the kitchen, it was not a GCFI, now it is. In the outlet, I have 2 wires coming in, one from the panel (14/3) and one from the range hood (14/2) (the hood is not installed right now). The range hood has 2 hot black wires on 2 different breaker. The other breaker (the 14/2) is feeding a lot of lights and a microwave.
It seems that somewhere in the wiring the neutral doesn't follow the black, it feeds another set of lights, including the microwave.
In the picture below, the left side is where the microwave / hood are.
We have confirmed that the neutral from the left side is needed to be connected to the neutral from the 14/3 wire, if we remove the connection nothing is working on that side.
The electrician said that it would be a good idea to remove that connection between the 14/3 and 14/2 neutral but that would cost a lot. He also said that since it's working it should be OK to keep it as-is but he said that if I'm selling the house in the future, I should mention this since it could be classified as a latent defect
My question are:

Is this a dangerous way of connecting everything, is it a latent defect?
Should the 14/2 also be connected at the panel like the 14/3 is?  (see picture pf the breaker)
When I install the range hood, which hot wire should I use? the one from the 14/3 or 14/2? (I don't remember how it was connected when I removed it)


texts:
My wife and I share a bathroom with our 2 year old son.  His bedroom is on one side and ours is on the other.  We'd like to reduce the amount of noise coming from our bathroom so we don't wake him when we shower.

I have already replaced the doors with solid core soundproofing doors. But I'm trying to figure out the best way to further seal off the doors.  There is still light and air leaking through the frame of the doors when they're closed, and along the bottom, which means sound is probably transmitting too.

Is there a good style of weatherstripping that would help? Stick on felt?  Compression weatherstripping?

Would an automatic door bottom be worth the effort or would a simple door sweep suffice?


texts: Can you wire a 120 volt receptacle off a 240 volt plug?

texts:
I want an over-the-range microwave, but my circuit panel is maxed out, so it can't be on its own circuit, and it would be a headache to run a new wire there anyways.
My stove has two 120 volt plugs on the top of it. I can save some headache by just pluging it into the stove, only thing is I'll have a cable hanging down by the backsplash all the time...
I'm wonding if I could save myself some hassle by running a wire from the 240volt range receptacle to a new 120volt receptacle for the microwave.
I know it would work: just nut the new wire onto one of the two 120 volt legs for the stove. My only concern is that it's a 40 amp circuit, so I'd either have figure out how to protect the wire with some kind of a local breaker (similar to the 15amp breakers on the plugs on the stove) or I'd probably have to run 8AWG up the wall to my new 120volt receptacle.
Buying 6ft of 8AWG and a proper box seems like the best, cheapest and easiest option compared to swapping out my whole panel and figuring out how to get a new run of wire up there. I'm just wondering if it's allowed?


texts: Basement bath: Can I tie a wet bar sink into bathroom vanity drain?

texts:
I've seen similar questions asked, but there seem to be enough variables that I'd like to ask here to be sure. See attached photos. I have a basement bath roughed in, it is wet vented. The vanity is the most downstream fixture. On the other side of the bathroom wall, I'd like to put a bar sink, and I'd like to run the drain line through the wall, through the bath vanity cabinet, and tie it into the vanity drain line.

Is this permitted? If so, is there a maximum distance between the two sinks and/or a minimum height for the bar sink? Do I have to vent the bar sink separately, and if so, can I use a studor vent? I am in Indiana.

I don't want to do this badly enough to dig into the concrete floor to access the drain line, so if there is no good solution, I'd rather just forget about it. However, if there IS a good solution, I'd rather do it now than down the road.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


texts: Can you skin over an existing roof deck that is breaking down?

texts:
Working on reshingling my roof.  The roof deck turned out to be 3/8" plywood which is starting to break down due to the number of times the roof has been replaced.

The deck is not rotting out except for a few spots along the drip edge, which we are cutting out to replace.  The main issues are that you can hear the plywood cracking and feel it give under you as you walk around.  There have been several times we were afraid we were going to put a foot through it, though it has not happened yet.

The question is, can we just lay a second layer of  sheathing over the existing deck to stiffen things up?  We are thinking of nailing 7/16" OSB over the existing plywood and making sure the the joints between the layers do not line up.

Anyone aware of code or other issues inherent in this approach?  I have not been able to locate anything that addresses this point.

We are located a bit south of Saint Louis, roof pitch is 5 in 12 if that makes a difference.


texts: How do i wire this 2 switches light switch?

texts:
This light switch was failing for a while and I removed it from the wall so I could see what the problem was. After inspecting it, I realized that it was a bad connection on the wires in the light switch. My problem is that the wall only has 3 wires.
Now let me explain how it was behaving before: the left switch would turn the ceiling lights, and the right switch would turn on a couple of lights that I have on the mirror. What I don't understand is how that could be accomplished with only 3 wires.
In the wall I have 2 black and 1 red wire. Each black wire, when paired with the red wire, turns on one of the lights respectively, as it should.
How would I wire this in such a way that I would have the same behavior? And why does it have 2 holes per switch?


texts: why is a service neutral grounded but not the subpanel-neutral?

texts:
I know it's code (refer to NEC 250.24(A)5 and 250.32), but I don't understand why you can't use a bonding jumper to connect the ground bus and neutral bus in the subpanel? I've been told it's because then you'd have current on the grounding conductor. In my attempt to understand this, I was thinking maybe it's a more of an issue of having parallel neutrals... but if they're grounded on both ends, how would that (not) work? Possible safety issue: if one of the grounds becomes disconnected, then you have a true parallel neutral... is that a viable or better explanation, or is current on the grounding conductor the real issue?

If so, then why isn't current on the grounding conductor(s) from the main panel a problem? I don't see the inherent difference between a subpanel and a main panel. Ultimately this question is, why bond neutral and ground in the main panel, but not the subpanel (besides NEC said so)? Why is the neutral from the main panel to the subpanel inherently different from the service neutral to the main?

edit- you may also refer to: How to properly ground a subpanel in detached building? for a relevant picture and because it is a related thread.


texts: How to connect when there are 2 cables of ceiling light

texts:
I found some similar questions but none actually sort out my problem.
I bought a new IKEA light fitting and its electrical box has 4 holes (2 for N and 2 for L). The instruction said to put 1 N to N and 1 L to L. And I saw many videos online doing the same thing.
Mine is different. I have two cables (each has 3 N/L/E). I know that one of them is for the switch while the other is for the consumer unit. I tried different combination:

Putting only the consumer cable in --> the light is always on. The switch does not work
Putting only the switch cable --> the light is not on.
Putting both of them in, 2 N from the two cables go to 2 N holes. Likewise, 2 L from the two cables go to 2 L holes. --> The light is on even when the light switch is not on. When I turn the light switch on, the light goes off and the main switch (of the room) switches off as well (meaning the combination is causing some conflict).

I tried different combinations of the third (changing the order of the two N and the two L) but none working.
Can someone please help?


texts: Mains switch or circuit breaker to turn off at zero voltage, for the home

texts:
I want a switch for mains electricity in my house. A switch that I can turn on and off as any normal switch, but that turns itself off when there is no power. The intended use is for a vanity unit that has bright lights. These lights would only work if the main room light is on. When the room light is turned off then the vanity lights would turn off. When the main room light is turned back on then the vanity lights would remain off.

Similar switches are available for workshop equipment, such as lathes and table saws. They are intended as safety switches so the equipment does not turn on after a power cut. I am interested in whether similar switches are available in the UK with conventional domestic format and, if they are, what are they called and where can I find them?

Given the UK electrical regulations I would get a qualified electrician to do the installation. But I want to understand what is available or possible.


texts: Dryer vent hose not staying connected to the dryer vent even with clamp

texts:
I cannot get the hose to stay on the metal vent coming out of the dryer.  I have tightened the clamp til I am almost bending the pipe but the venting material slides right off?
Help and thank you!


texts: How can I install my dryer exhaust - Should I contact the builder?

texts:
I am trying to install my new LG dryer exhaust in a new build home and the part attached to the wall just fell off. Should I contact the builder?
I have done this before and it was not as complicated.
See images below.
http://imgur.com/gallery/8jHkJKa


texts: Gas company decided to shut off gas due to leak from backfeed

texts: I decided to call Nicor Gas this morning, because I smelled some gas around the meters. They sent a technician out promptly, and found that there was a pipe pushing gas out the house from the same one feeding into the house. He wrote on the tag that gas had to be shut off due to safety relating to backfeed from fuel line that goes into the house. Sounds like contractors who did rehab tied two gas lines inside into one somewhere. The Nicor tech told me I have to hire a plumber to trace the pipe causing this. This house was converted from a 2 unit home to a single family. Is there anything i should be looking for before I call someone or just hire a plumber who specializes in gas plumbing?


texts: Need help to remove protective cover from light bulb

texts:
I need to remove this protective cover from my light fixture. I've tried to turn the protective cover, ive pulled on it, and I've tried to remove this specific light from the fixture.

I've tried the same on the other 2 working lights with no success as well, so I'm at a loss. I haven't had the bulb burn out since I bought the house 5 years ago and have no instruction manuals or know the name of the fixture to be able to look up online how to take it off.

Would really appreciate any guidance that anyone has on how to remove it.

!


texts: How do I replace an old Roomba's battery?

texts:
I've got an old iRobot Roomba "3100 Pro Elite" whose battery has died. A new Roomba is EUR 300 and upward, so I would prefer to revive the one I have.

It's difficult (impossible?) to find replacement batteries in Austria (Europe), and they are so expensive that I haven't yet convinced myself the cost is worth it. But it would be nice to revive the Roomba as it is in decent working condition, mechanically, except for the cheap rubber treads that I have glued back on.

Do you have suggestions for where to get a replacement battery for this specific Roomba?

Would it make sense to try this DIY approach, considering I've never tried soldering on batteries? I'd hate to have this thing explode in my living room. Where would I get batteries from? The page's discussion thread refers to a U.S. website.


texts: Whirlpool dishwasher: can't set program and just says "Out"

texts:
My whirlpool dishwasher (ADG 8410 FD) won't allow me to set a program. The display just says "Out", and when I close it, you can hear the drain pump for about a minute and then it stops and beeps a couple of times.

My first thought was that "out" meant outlet. So I disconnected the pipe and poured water into the dishwasher base so the filter area was full. Turned it on and all that water drained without issue (leaving a very small puddle at the bottom).

There's nothing in the manual that says about this "out" message. Nothing online. Any ideas? There is no F error. Turning off/on at the plug does nothing - as soon as the dishwasher is turned on it shows "Out" on the display.

Thanks in advance,

Sam


texts:
I just changed a switch in my house and after I pushed it back in the box it arced and the breaker did not trip, so I rewired it. Now, the light is not getting any power but everything else on that circuit works.

Could there be a break in the wire somewhere in the wall?


texts: Sprinkler system & smoke detectors - Illinois code requirements when closing loft

texts:
I am looking to close a loft and turn it into bedroom.
I live in Illinois and house (built on 2007) has fire sprinkle system and smoke detectors through all the floors. After closing loft there will be none.

Do i have to install sprinkle system in new bedroom?

Do i have to install smoke detector in New bedroom? Can I just use simple battery smoke detectors or do i need to wire it? Current smoke detectors have common line (interconnect)

do I need to add return air duct in this new room?

Is there anything else I should watch for?

Thanks
Arek


texts: Water dripping under vinyl siding onto basement concrete

texts:
Recently bought a house and it's been incredibly rainy. Record monthly rainfall for a couple of months running. Not sure if it is related but it seems as if there is some water running under the siding of the east side of my house when it rains. We've gotten two or three very small "puddles" in our basement on this side of the house as well during different heavy rainfalls. Nothing large just a tiny splash of water here and there that dries up very quickly. To be honest there's probably been some I never saw because they dried up. Unfortunately I can't tell exactly where the water is coming from because we have that white vapor guarded insulation nailed into the wall throughout the basement. All I can see without cutting it away is the puddles which seem to show up in random spots on that wall.

Anyways I attached some pictures of the outside near the bottom of the siding and really just want to know if you'd consider this a problem and if so what usually causes it? What should I do or who should I call? We are not very handy on large projects.

Thank you so much for your help. We are very nervous and stressed about this.


texts: When insulating a new house does the poly have to be caulked and taped at the top?

texts: How far down from the top of the wall does the poly covering the insulation have to be and does it have to be caulked at the top and bottom and taped?


texts:
The new basement bathroom is framed and passed inspection. Ready to insulate and close. My first question is about the ceiling. We plan to use fiberglass batts between the joists in the ceiling. Above is a finished hardwood floor bedroom. In the framed walls we'll be using paper faced fiberglass, paper to the bathroom side.

I see different info on the ceiling. Looking for thoughts on whether there should be faced or unfaced fiberglass. Rockwool?

Thanks guys!


texts: Replaced HVAC Transformer, still have no output voltage

texts:
My HVAC stopped working, no matter what state the thermostat is in there is no fan, no compressor, no heat, etc. Using a multimeter, I found that the output voltage on the transformer was 0V. Unplugging the transformer, I checked the voltage across the two blade connectors. The power side shows 117V. So I went ahead and ordered a replacement transformer.

After installing the new transformer, the HVAC still was not working. I checked the output on the new transformer and it is still 0V. Is the new transformer faulty? What else should I be testing? When I plugged the unit in, there was no smoke or smells that may indicate the transformer being fried.

Using the multimeter, and testing the transformer independant of the circuit, the high side is showing 20 ohms resistance, the low side shows 1.6 ohms. Checking the wires that shouldn't be connected internally shows no continuity.

UPDATE: The furnace control board is The furnace control board is CESO110074-01 https://arnoldservice.com/product/ceso110074-01-bryant-carrier-furnace-control-circuit-board/

The furnace is a Carrier Product: 58gfa085---101MC Model: 58gfa085-mc


texts: lighting rail of two light fixture one turn on faintly the other not at all

texts: i have a fixture with 2 bulbs one of the lamps goes on very faint the other does not go on at all I checked connections put in new bulbs 48'


texts: Is there a superior leveling system to avoid lippage in tile flooring?

texts:
My question is, is there a superior tile leveling system for large format (13x20) floor tile to avoid any lippage?  There are several styles on the market; spacer clips and wedges' spacers and pommels, spacers and caps, spacer clips and rings, spacer straps and caps, and spacer plates and spindles.  Most systems except the pommels and rings require some type of hand tool that utilizes mechanical advantage to tune the system.  Some have a simple one step process for removal post installation.  Most have a reusable component.  Which one does the best job for the least effort and upfront cost?

This info is not necessarily specific to my question, but I am going to be laying a new tile floor in our home entry way, an alcove, and a small half bath.  All surfaces total ~150 sq. ft.  I will be laying the tile with an 1/8" grout line on a diagonal running bond.  I will also back butter the tile.  The sub-floor is a concrete slab and I will be floating a self leveling compound.  I am a DIY'er with no tile experience.


texts: Question on drywall patch in the ceiling

texts:
I have a ceiling vent where the drywall is cut a bit larger than the actual vent.  I was looking for some advice on the repair.

The duct is mounted to a stud along the top (a piece of the stud is visible in the top right).  Should I cut a slightly larger square (around the vent cover) and add a piece of backing on the bottom side so I have something to screw the patch into on the top/bottom?  Or should I cut a larger section of drywall out so I can catch the stud on the bottom.  The vent cover itself is about 8 inches.


texts: My toilet started leaking over few days.  There is just a little pool of water near the front part of the flange (No, it isn't from me missing when I pee).  It only happens about once a week.


texts:
I've seen a couple conflicting answers here for whether or not a second p=trap is necessary, my understanding is 30" is the max distance between drains to share a p-trap, which my vanity is. I was able to rig it without a p-trap but could easily add one but want the extra storage space.

I've tested it with a full sink on both sides and it drains fine, so is there any advantage to the second p-trap? The tailpieces from the sinks are 1 1/4" and the tee and p-trap and drain are 1 1/2" so I figure there is more than enough capacity for drainage from the sinks. Also is there a recommended amount of slope here for this connection? I added enough slope so that my 6" level touches the line so like 1-2 deg.
Apologies for the distorted image, it was wide angle
Edit: so everything is working now...except the drain is very loud! When I use the left vanity, the long distance to the p-trap is causing a lot of noise to travel up the open drain for the right vanity. Thinking I should now add the second p-trap just to provide a noise baffle.
Would it be best to tie in past the left p-trap with a wye or would installing a p-trap on the horizontal tied in before the left p-trap ok? I'm guessing p-traps in series may not be kosher but having a hard time finding the code.


texts: How do I prevent water from streaming into my driveway?

texts:
Here's pictures of what's happening - taken yesterday (June 1st 2015).

I'm struggling with water drainage problems on this old gravel driveway.

When it rains -  all the water streams from the street then pool next to the garage and only then runs to the side of the property.

In the spring, water runoff is stronger - so my garage has been flooded...

Could you advice what do I install along the road to prevent water from coming in? Just add more gravel?

P.S. also - gravel seems to be so old - it's not porous anymore  - it's literally fused into the ground


texts:
Fairly new to this house and I have a large open vent in our basement that is letting a lot of cold air in. The diameter is 8-9 inches. The inside duct is connected directly to the outside vent screen in the second image.

It is in the furnace/utility room. The furnace and water heater both consume gas. Will blocking it impact carbon monoxide levels in the basement?

Here is what it looks like inside and out.


texts:
I have seen these things in various walls around my house and I am just wondering what the heck they are???

reverse image search showed no useful results so now I here asking for the help of stack exchange! Any ideas?


texts: Can I bypass an old fuse box and connect the service directly to the breaker panel?

texts:
We have an older home with a fuse box in house and also breaker box outside. This is second time now in last couple weeks that all the main house overhead lights and outlets have gone out completely. They all go to the fuse box. First time was after turning light on and off in one room, and now yesterday after using the microwave.

All our other power like stove, washer, dryer, hot water, new room addition and maybe couple other items all go straight to the breaker box and they all work just fine. I have replaced fuses and the main lights and outlets going to the fuse box still do not work.

Multiple wires all join together in the attic and 2 main wires come down into the fuse box and then after running through their just 1 main wire goes to the breaker box. The breaker is fine and not tripped. The fuse box has buzzed a few times lately when using microwave. I am thinking fuse box is maybe bad and thinking I can totally bypass the fuse box by taking the 2 wires coming from attack and attach new wiring to them and go straight to the breaker box. It should be about 8 outlets/lights on each wire coming down from attic as I went up to inspect them best I could and did not see any issues.

I want to make sure I can bypass fuse box and check what size breaker to use. I am thinking either 20amp or 30 amp. I thought may need a 30amp breaker for each wire from attic so plenty of juice. I have done some electrical work before so comfortable doing it just making sure I am thinking right about how to do this as I can not afford to pay anyone. ANy help??!?


texts: What should I do about excess flex in cement board that will be behind tile?

texts:
This is around a tub/shower. The studs are spaced at 24in, cement board is 1/2in.

We're surprised at how much flex there is between the sheets of cement board. I'm worried that tiles may pop off.

We're planning to use 12in floor tiles on the wall.

Some options I've considered:

Leave it. It's fine.
Aim the tile grout lines at the seams of the cement board. Flex won't affect whole tiles.
Add blocking behind the seam. PITA.
Add another layer of cement board, maybe 1/4", shifted over so the seams don't overlap.

What should I do? If anything.


texts: Replacing dumb wall switch with smart one (wiring)

texts:
Based on the first diagram below (which is the current wiring for my wall switch), is the way I have the second diagram set up correct? My biggest point of confusion is the line/load wires. Judging by the fact that there are two loads (presumably TR and BR), I am assuming that TL is the line. Would this be the correct way to install my new switch?

I am assuming based on the current wiring that the exposed copper wires are ground (green in the diagram), the white wires are neutral (yellow), and the black wires are line/load (red).

Does this work? Is it safe? Should I abort? :P


texts: Should the edge of a tiled shower wall and floor be left unsealed?

texts: Our shower remodel was just completed and our tiler intentionally left the edge of the shower wall and floor unsealed. This seems strange to me but he insisted that it should be left unsealed. He said that if water ever works it's way behind the wall higher up it'll need a place to drain out instead of collecting inside the wall. Is this correct or should we seal this bottom edge? Is there any risk to leaving it unsealed?


texts: LED strip forgets last setting when turned off

texts:
In the staircase at my home an electrician installed a LED strip in the handle. I can dim the lights to desired intensity using a springloaded switch and a timer turns on the light in the morning and off at night.

The problem is that every time the light is turned on it's on full blast which is really annoying in the morning.

Can I solve this using the hardware I have without having to call in an electrician?

Driver: LED dimtrafo MDR 12V  specs

Timer: Theben  TR610 top2 specs

Photo of timer, driver and switch overview

Closeup photo of driver


texts: What could cause ceiling fan lights to flicker on with power and then go out immediately?

texts: I have ceiling light fan.  The fan works fine.  The light used to work fine.  All of a sudden one day the light started acting up.  When I turn on the switch, the light flickers on for about a second and then turns off.  It has three bulbs, all turn on and then off in less than a second. Any suggestions to fix problem.


texts: I have a black goop coming out of my shower head

texts: Black gunk is in shower head It is also in my sink drain, but the shower head is disturbing. We have city water. What could it bed it be?


texts:
Alright! This is a 4 part question! I live in a new build in Ottawa Ontario and would like to finish my basement. Basement is below grade, and the house has been up for 6 months.
1 )I'm planning on using DMX under my subfloor. Should I still etch and seal my concrete floors?

If I do seal the floors, what type of sealant should I use? Any advice?

Do I turn off my furnace while I complete the work? Should I tape around it? Something about acid being near my furnace......

How much will this stink and for how long? I have an 8 month old and don't want him breathing in the stuff!

Thank you !


texts: Chimney with adjacent brick shafts into attic

texts:
I have dual fireplaces back-to-back on either side of a wall. They are separate fireplaces; there is clearly a solid barrier at the back of each fireplace. They and the whole chimney are brick. We have had both sides serviced and both work fine. One is set up for gas and the other for gas or wood.
I'm insulating my attic and found brick shafts adjacent to the chimney on the left and the right of the chimney proper. They are clearly part of the chimney construction. One is fairly clear but the other has trash insulation filling it up about 1/2 way.
What are these things and is it important that I clean out the trashy one?
photo of right side

photo of chimney coming up through ceiling

photo of shaft on left side


texts: How to build a removable bench for a sit-in window?

texts:
I'm prepping for my next home improvement project and it's going to be building a custom bench to effectively create a sit-in window. It's really just a normal window but we have installed bookcases on both sides so there's effectively a little cubby area there at the window now. We want to have this bench there 11 months out of the year but for Christmas we want to remove the bench and put the Christmas tree in there. It's about a 6' width and I want it to be something that somebody can crawl up into to read a book with their back up against the book cases.

Firstly, I've never done something like this but I am an engineer so I can think things through, especially if pointed in the right direction. Secondly, I know this is impossible for anybody to just tell me how to do this entire project but that's not what I'm looking for. Lastly, I'm sure I'm going to screw some things up and I'm sure I'll have to acquire a tool or three that I don't have (a table saw is the first thing that comes to mind) - this is fine but I just want to make sure I go down the right path to do this.

So here are my actual questions that I think are actually answerable:

I have a pretty decent set of tools but not a lot of wood-working tools. A miter saw and some sanders are about as fancy as I have. Take the simple stuff for granted but what more specialized and expensive tools might I be looking at needing for this? (I suspect a table saw is probably going to be a good start but what about a planer, jointer or other things?)
Is there an obviously good type of wood I should use for this? I'm sure I'll stain it the color I prefer but what should I look for? Maple? Pine? I'm not sure what is a good or bad idea here.
Given that I want this to be movable for Christmas, what special considerations do I need to take into account for that requirement besides not permanently attaching it to the wall/floor? (I'm thinking of creating a simple notched wood mounting mechanism into the floor that you have to lift it over the mechanism to remove so it's fairly stable unless you lift the thing up.)
What kind of material should I use for the seat area? Should I go just bare wood and pillows or is there a good choice for padding for the seat? I really have no clue where to start here if I don't go wood + pillows.
I'm afraid that somebody will lean against the window and cause problems there. Any suggestions to keep that from being a problem?
Are there are some designs for something similar that I can take a look at to get some ideas from? Structural integrity will obviously be very important and while I'm a smart guy who can figure some stuff out, I'd much rather learn from others' mistakes and start out with some clever ideas that are tried and true.
Lastly, is this likely too big of a project for somebody who isn't really a woodworker? I'm willing to admit defeat before frustrating myself to failure if folks experienced with this tell me that I'm in over my head.

I hope I asked this in an answerable way. Any tips you can provide will be greatly appreciated. I think this will be a fun project once I get it started!


texts: How can I add a GFCI receptacle on a circuit with split receptacles?

texts: I have a typically wired living room with all receptacles switchable on the top outlet. We are installing a large fish tank and decided to add GFCI protection. I'm trying to change a single duplex to a GFCI + single duplex. I would like this box for the fish tank to be hot at all times. I tied together the switchable lead in this box so everything downstream is still the same. I fed the hot circuit through the GFCI and jumped to the neighboring duplex. You see where this is going? I didn't until I flipped the light switch. Shared neutral returning current not seen leaving the GFCI. Is there a way around this without pulling wire? Or do I have to live with switchable top outlets in this box?


texts: What is the name of this plumbing U wedge + connection

texts:
The two black pipes pictured below are connected, and a U-shaped wedge is placed between them, apparently to close the connection.

What is the name of this connection or this wedge?

I will subsequently google the name you provide to look for how I can open the joint and reseal it.


texts:
I want to buy a new smart thermostat, but am confused on the old wiring. I have single zone 120year old gas boiler (converted from coal, then oil, now gas). No cooling. The old honeywell thermostat is wired R, W, B, TR, TR with red, white and blue (blueish)wires from the boiler. But also two TR wires, one green and one black. I'm assuming one of the TR wires runs the clock on the thermostat? I'm confused on where each wire would hook into on a new smart thermostat and which is common?

I think that may be the wire diagram for this thermostat.
Thanks for all the help, Tom


texts: New shower head not oriented correctly when tight

texts: I am replacing a shower head. While the old shower head screws into the piping correctly, the new one, when screwed in to be tight, ends up being upside down. If I loosen the head so it is the right way up, it leaks a bit at the joint. What do I need in order to make it tight when it’s half a rotation less than it wants to be?


texts: Can I ground a new light to an old metal box via a switch yoke?

texts:
All of my switches are installed in old metal boxes with no threaded ground screw holes.  The boxes are wired using old cloth BX with no ground wire(grounded via casing).  Some of the BX wire insulation is crumbling near light fixtures, I think due to heat.

As I replace the light fixtures I'd like to replace the BX from light to box with Romex.  The BX that supplies the box is in good shape.  How do I appropriately ground the new fixtures.  There are no threaded holes in the metal boxes.  Grounding to the box via the yoke on new switches will work but I don't think this is proper.  Can I just tap a new 10-32 hole in the box? Should I tear out all of the old bx or maybe just run new ground wires?  Thanks in advance.


texts: What is the technical term for this corner cupboard?

texts: I am trying to learn what this small blue cupboard on the left side of the table is called? It's a corner cupboard but I am not sure what the technical term is:


texts:
I have this kind of anchors (plugs): rawlplug uno

Despite googling hard, I couldn't understand what type of screws they should go with: wood screws? sheet metal screws? machine screws? coarse thread? fine thread?

Every source seems to only specify the diameter and length of the screw to use with a particular size of the plug, nothing else!

Also, if there is any other feature of a screw relevant to their coupling with a given anchor, I'd be interested to hear about that.

Thanks


texts: Are there any simple electronic door locks available?

texts:
I have an office door I need to keep locked but allow easy access.
It doesn't have to be super secure, it has a proper deadlock for when we are closed, it just has to stop people casually walking in.
But everyone having to remember to lock it behind them with the key+deadlock is slow and inconvenient.

Any suggestions on a simple retrofit electronic lock? Low cost and easy to fit are priorities.

All the ones we looked at are built for Fort Knox. We just need something that moves a plunger out of the way for a few seconds with something like a garage door opener?


texts: I am trying to install a basic Honeywell Programmable thermostat, but the wiring is a bit different, and I am reluctant to start taking it apart. I have a Goodman heat pump, which is occasionally blowing heat when it is set to cool. It seems to be happening more often, and I am hoping that a new thermostat might fix the problem. I am including pictures of how it was wired, as well as the new wiring plate. Any help would be appreciated.


texts:
I had a new roof replaced recently and my whole house would shake when they would throw the shingle bundles down on my roof.  I went to the attic the next day and noticed something I hadn't previously.  2 of my roof rafters had a split in the wood.  The split is length wise extends the entire length of the beam.

I showed this to my roofer and he laughed and said it was "checking".  He tells me there is no way that his guys could have done this.

So a couple questions:
1.)  Is this really checking or could the roofer have caused the damage?
2.)  How big of a deal is this?  Do I need to get it fixed?
3.)  How do I fix it?  Or more likely, who do I call?  A general contractor?  Another roofer?


texts: Smart Thermostat - No C-Wire - No Controller Board

texts:
This one seems to be a little different from previous questions on the subject. Here is the dilemma, I don't see a transformer. I have included a few pics.

There are Three wire bundles. For ease we will call them "Bundle-A", "Bundle-B" and "Cannon-Plug" - see schematic diagram for Cannon-Plug.

Bundle-A has two wires in it, Red and White. This bundle comes down the wall from the second story.  There is another HVAC upstairs, maybe it runs there?

"Bundle B runs through the wall to the Thermostat. I think it is a 10 wire bundle, but they cut back all of the wires except the 4 wires that are in use at the thermostat.

Here is how it is wired:

Bundle-A-Red is connected Cannon-Plug-Blue.

Bundle-A-White is connected to Bundle-B-Yellow

Bundle-B Red is connected to Cannon-Plug-Red through an overflow-shutoff wire (black in this photo).

Bundle-B Green is connected to Cannon-Plug-Green

Bundle-B White is connected to Cannon-Plug-White

Also notice how the Red/Blue wires are also bridged (with a capacitor? resistor?)

Any thoughts on which wire I tap for "C-Wire"?

On another note, look at the corrosion image. How bad is that? How long before leak and repair - scale 1 to 10?

Thanks Ya'll

Tom


texts: Should I block or insulate my air vents for the winter?

texts:
I live in a house which consists of a 17 year old extension on a 40 something year old cottage. The two main bedrooms are the only rooms in the house with air vents. They are also two of the coldest rooms in the house.

The vents are basically just holes in the wall covered by plastic vent covers. They have a switch to slide them 'closed' (I leave them closed permanently). Even on closed I can feel a cold breeze if I hold my hand to them. I can also hear the wind whistling through them at night.

As it comes into winter I feel like all the heat in these rooms is escaping through these vents. I keep thinking I should just stuff some insulation in there, even just for the winter months.

Is blocking them a bad idea? Long term, can I replace these with a more insulated kind that won't lose as much heat?


texts: Can I use an old 50 amp circuit that was previously used for an electric stove to feed a new sub panel in my garage?

texts: I have a 100 amp service entry which is about 40 feet from the attached garage. Currently, I am only using 50 amps to feed the house and want to use the other 50 amps to feed my garage. I reside in California for code purposes.


texts: I chopped through 1/3 of the width of the cord leading to my angle grinder - it still works should I replace the cord?

texts:
I had an angle grinder setup in a chopsaw stand.  Something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/RO-LY-100-125-Grinder-Support/dp/B07NTXMHC1
It was the first time using the setup and I didn't notice that the cord came into the area of the grinder disc.  I cut through ~1/3 of the strands of copper in the cord.  The grinder still seems to be working.  I put electrical tape around the cut area.
Do I need to replace the cord?  If I don't replace the cord what are the downsides, the grinder is fairly cheap.


texts: I live in an high desert where it gets very cold, -20  in the winter,with 95 degree days in the summer. I have a beverage cooler in a building with a new shed attached to it to protect the compressor. The shed is stuccoed with a metal roof. I have a vent in the upper portion of the shed, no windows. I will install an exhaust fan in the spring, but now I need to insulate the shed for winter. What is the best material to use and who do I avoid mold or condensation issues?


texts: Wood treated with copper green for a vegetable garden

texts: I am planning to build an outdoor planter box to grow vegetables.  If I treat the redwood with Copper Green will the vegetables be safe to eat?


texts:
We live in a first floor flat and planning to replace living area and hallway flooring using Vinyl. We already have vinyl in the Kitchen and the bathroom and found flooring is hard. As those areas are not always use by kids , we don't have any worries about noise . These areas are very small so hard to get an idea about noise.

Currently we have Carpets in living area and hallway where kids spend most of the time.We have young kinds and I wonder how Vinyl good in terms of noise?


texts: Ok, so we are new in this house and have found numerous dead outlets. It is not usually the entire outlet, meaning both plugs, but usually just one.  I know one in particular is a GFCI, but without the TEST/RESET buttons, meaning it is protected downline somewhere.  The top plug does not work, but the bottom one did until today when I was trying to plug something else into it.  I have searched other outlets that are GFCI and have the RESET button, but only found one in the vicinity of the protected one, in the kitchen and I reset it.  The bottom plug started working again, but top one is still dead.  I would imagine it is possible that there is something wrong with just the one plug in all of these outlets and not the entire outlet?  I mean, there could be a loose wire that needs tightening or maybe the outlet just needs to be replaced, period.  I have checked the breakers and there are none tripped and there is no GFCI breaker either.  Should I bother with an outlet tester or just cut the power and pull the outlet and check it?


texts:
I've got a 26.5"x79" rough opening for a storage space under my staircase. I'd like to install a double door where each door is about a foot wide an hinges out. A ball latch in the top casing could keep them in place when closed.

My preference is to match the Victorian aesthetic of the rest of the house so I was thinking about taking an old solid interior door that's about 24"x80" that has stiles etc (don't know all the correct terms) and rip it in half then cut the top and/or bottom to dimension.

My question is, would the door fall apart if I did this because the glued joints would be compromised?

Edit: Added photo of example door and dimensions above.


texts: Light box for ceiling light is attached to ceiling beam

texts:
I just took down a ceiling fan to find an electrical box that I've never seen before:

It appears to be wrapped around the ceiling beam. The center screw is drilled into the bottom of the beam. Looks like the two slits on either side have holes drilled into the beam, and that's what I would attach a new ceiling light fixture to.

Is this sort of thing ok? I've just never seen it before, not sure what it's called, and it if it's ok for code in New York.

Thanks


texts: Fridgidaire Gallery Powers off for several hours and sometimes days

texts:
I have a Fridgidaire Gallery Model: FGHN2866PF0.

The issue I have is that the fridge powers off for hours at a time and sometimes days at a time. No cooling, no lights in fridge. Only the door control panel stays alive.

The inner door control panel stays lit with the codes OF OF on the Fridge  and freezer temperature readings.

I've changed the main board 3 times. and the control panel as well.
Each time the problem returns after 1 month.

I don't know what else may be causing the issue. It's not the home breaker popping, because the display stay lit.

When the fridge comes back to life, the high temperature alarms go off, the ice maker begins to make ice, the compressor comes on, the lights come on.

What could be wrong?


texts: What is this sliding door latch called, and where can I find it?

texts:
I have a sliding door. The part that the the lock interacts with, on the wall, has broken. It looks like a double hook (pictures attached).

I went to home depot and no one knew what it was or where to find it. Does anyone have a clue?


texts: No Cold Water in upstairs bathroon and Kitchen

texts: It appears that the cold water has stopped in the kitchen (hot still works) and there is no cold or hot coming from the bathroon sink on that main floor. The bathroom sink in the basement is working fine. I am in Chicago it is very cold here today so I don't know if that's the issue. If its a freeze what should I do? Also should I stop using the basement water as well.


texts:
I have a small crawl space (8' wide) under the porch of my 1920s home. The door (2' wide) is currently near/next to the house. We would like to move the door to be away from the house so we can put an AC compressor in front of where the door currently is.

It is not obvious to me what is load bearing or even what the construction material is. Can I make a new door about 2' to the right of the current opening and then seal up the old opening?

Will it be much harder to make the opening if the AC compressor is in place before doing the work so that there is no immediate inside access?


texts: Do I need a back-flow preventer for a new water to garden?

texts:
I am in the process of running a water line from my well pump a garden bed about 75 feet away. I will have a separate shut off valve for this water line.  At the garden end I will have two hose bibs. This will probably change eventually to drip irrigation or misting systems.  Eventually this line will continue to bring water to a green house and other outbuildings that require very little water usage.

Do I need a type of check valve or back-flow preventer at the start of my line ? Or will a back-flow preventer on each hose bib be sufficient.    Coming out of the well pump house I will 'T' the line with 1 line going to the house and 1 line going to the garden area.

I live very rural with no local restrictions.


texts: I want to replace my bathroom light switch. It’s the old flat toggle style. I took off the cover and pulled out the switch and it has 1 black wire and two white wires. Not sure what to do next. Any suggestions?


texts: Do I need to replace a shower tile that has been scratched?

texts: I am regrouting my bathroom and the shower floor tile has a scrape mark / maybe not cracked through....my question is can i continue ( i can live with the mark) or is it now not waterproof ? Do I need to replace the tile ( a bigger job that may interrupt the waterproof membrane ) what to do ? Thank you


texts: What kind of drain rod do I need to get around this bend?

texts:
Had to have this drain unblocked professionally the other day, because I don't have the right kit. It blocks yearly, and so I'd like to be able to sort this myself.

The problem is, that the drain pipe goes in the direction of the arrow, away from the wall as shown in the picture below. My drain rods are not flexible enough to get around the corner with the wall being where it is, but the professional I got in the other day seemed to have a thinner, more flexible type of drain rod.

I searched on line, but could only find standard rods. Is there a particular name for this type of rod that might help me to source one?

(I'm in the UK if that's relevant)

Thanks


texts: Popping sound from specific spot on floor

texts:
Six months ago my wife and I moved into a 2-story pre-owned home, custom build in 2015.  We noticed over the last few days there is a spot on our 2nd floor master bedroom that makes a popping sound when we walk over it.  The floor may have creaked before, but only in the last few days has it become an audible pop.

Here is a short link to video so you can see/hear.

It has recently started getting hot here (western pennsylvania) and we're wondering if this is seasonal (ie. just the house adjusting to changing humidity) or a more ominous sign.  The popping does occur over/near a metal duct.

Looking for advice on what the problem could likely be and the recommended course of action.  We're getting in touch with the original builder to see if floor repairs would be part of our home warranty for example.

Thanks


texts: What type of backer board do I need to use to attach a stone veneer around a fireplace?

texts:
I want to put up a stone veneer surround, around a gas fireplace we're going to install.  I've seen everything from using 1/2" plywood and a metal lath, to putting the tiles directly on drywall.  I have everything apart so I want to do this the best way.

The tiles/stones I will be using are quite heavy as they are real stone and not "manufactured stone".

Items in play:
 - Weight - heavier tiles
 - heat - over and around a fireplace
 - Indoor


texts: How to increase flow to upper water outlets

texts:
If I open one of the large faucets on the lower floor, I get almost no flow in the upper showers.

All the pipes 3/4" from the meter to every outlet. If I increase the size of the section of pipe that distributes the water to the other pipes will that result in an increased flow?

This section is about 5 meters long and has 4 derivations.


texts: Adding Ground Wire to Existing NEMA 10-30 socket

texts:
I have a question about changing my 10-30 wall outlet to 14-30 for charging my EV. I thought it was a simple trip to Home Depot but it seems I may be not code compliant. I bought a Level 2, 20 amp charger, with a Nema 14-30p plug with a 25 foot cord. Clipper Creek LCS-25P level 2 charger. Reading the post below, and ArchonOSX's response in reference to the 2014 NEC, the code states a maximum cord size of 6 feet in a 250V circuit, I am clearly not compliant. So why do they sell these long EVSE chargers with these plugs? I am hoping the code has been updated. I am trying to utilize the unused garage dryer plug for my EVSE but since my garage is full of crap, I bought the larger cord length to plug my EV in the driveway.

In response to this post: Looking for or adding a ground to an existing NEMA 10-30 socket

The 625.44 Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment Connection. section B states ALL these conditions are to be met: B1. Can be 4-wire which is NEMA 14-30 B2. EVSE fastening B3. Six foot cord length and B4. Receptable location to avoid damage to cord.

It then ends with:

All other electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permanently wired and fastened in place to the supporting surface, a wall, a pole, or other structure. The electric vehicle supply equipment shall have no exposed live parts.

Can someone advise me if I should cut the cord length to 6 feet and move my EV into the garage? I may be forced to then have to buy the $1,000 wall unit and pay an electrician to install it.

I'm trying to save the planet but it's getting expensive!

This is my first post so apologies for the length of my query. Thank you for your patience and advice.


texts: How do I remove this plastic fitting connected under my kitchen faucet?

texts: I am trying to replace my kitchen faucet which is leaking at the base. So far I am struggling to remove the leaky faucet. There is a black and white plastic connection piece that I have been unsuccessful at removing. Does anyone know how to remove this thing?


texts: Is temporarily reducing the water supply line an option when installing a water softener?

texts:
I am installing a water softener in my house.  Currently we're getting the water supply from 1" PEX that has a service loop in the garage.

I built my own 1" PVC bypass system for a GE water softener (see attached photo); I had to use SharkBite-style connectors to terminate the PEX.  Today the system operates in bypass mode, because I didn't glue the joints square enough where the 1 inch brass valves mate to the water softener's 1 inch NPT input and output stems.

One of the household occupants has grown tired of hard water and demanded that the water softener be operational 'soon' (i.e. tonight).  AFAICT, this means I essentially have a couple of options...

Remake the PVC bypass with correct the angle; that's more work than I will get done tonight...
Use some stainless steel braided hose to bridge the gap, so I can compensate for the misaligned valves.

Option 2 seems to be the best, except for availability of parts.  Nobody in town (including Grainger and specialty plumbing supply stores) carry 1 inch braided hose.  My best option is at Lowe's... a 3/4 inch OD stainless braided hose, which measures 1/2 inch ID; I will use reduction fittings to adjust between 1 inch NPT on the water softener and 3/4 inch NPT on the hose.

My concern is that 1/2 inch ID might cause an unacceptable loss of flow when the system is designed for 1 inch PEX.  Is the 1/2 inch ID braided hose a viable short-term option until I can get delivery on the appropriate parts?


texts:
I got my hands on an old Top Horse manlift. It looks pretty much just like this one. I tried plugging it in and turning it on and nothing happened. I think the batteries are long dead.

My question is: Can I recharge the batteries (it looks like there are 3 of them next to each other) using my car battery and car charging cables?

If yes, what would be the safe steps to charge all 3 batteries.

If no, what else can I do to get the manlift working again?


texts: How should I route my Romex and Network cables and can I safely drill another hole through this joist?

texts:
I am trying to run a bunch of network cables from my network switch in the basement into the attic so that I can disperse them throughout the second floor bedrooms. At the same time, I needed to repair some Romex cables that squirrels bit and chewed through in my attic. I decided to replace the entire span of damaged Romex. I paid to have the attic "squirrel-proofed" with a one way door and their entrance-way was fully sealed so they wont be damaging things anymore hopefully. Also at the same time that of all this is happening, I am deciding to take the opportunity to run two more 14 gauge and two 12 gauge Romex pulls for a planned attic expansion.

Anyway, I am trying to figure out what the best way of routing all of these wires would be. I had to rip out the drywall because the wires were stapled to the frame when the house was renovated in the early 90's so my only option was to cut into the drywall to unstaple them. So I was able to take a good look at what is going on behind the walls. There are a whole host of "alarm", telephone, and COAX wires running DIRECTLY on top of the Romex. This was likely done by the lazy alarm installer technicians AFTER the electricians did there work in the 90's. I am pretty sure that is not to code to have low voltage wires run through the same hole as 110v. I want opinions on the best practices of how I can go about "cleaning" this mess of wires up. I noticed that when we run our portable space heater in the upper floors, the 14 gauge Romex gets luke "warm" which I don't particularly like.

Finally, I wanted to know if it would be okay from a structural standpoint to drill an additional hole through the header joist for the front facade of the house between the first and second floors  for the network cables and new Romex runs. Or would it be OK to put in a notch with some nail guards?

Here are some photos of the situation. I would just like to get some professional opinions on the matter.  Pictures:

From the basement:

Passing over a stud: (this happens due to the fact that the wires run behind a closet on the second floor. I could technically bypass this and go straight up but I'd possibly have to knock down more drywall on the second floor. )

Going up to the second floor: (the network cables just "float" past the header joist and do not go through it at all)

At the end of the day, I will have a total of SIX Romex Cables, One for the front two second floor bedrooms, one for the back two bedrooms, one for the front attic renovation room, one for the back attic room, and two 12 gauge for HVAC unit and appliances (in the attic renovation))


texts:
I am finishing a piece of furniture for my home and would like to use a no (or low) VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) product.  However, there does not seem to be many on the  market.  I found one so far:

http://www.vermontnaturalcoatings.com

Have you found a No/Low VOC that works well?  What tips do you have?


texts: How do i know how many amps to send to my subpanel?

texts: I am building a 24'x15' woodworking shop inside a larger pole barn. I want to put a subpanel in the shop fed by the buildings main panel but how do i estimate the size of the breaker to use in the main panel to send enough power to feed the shop? Is there a general guild line for woodshop power usage?


texts:
I’m installing a new induction cooktop to replace an old electric coil unit. The new unit has a three-wire connection (black & red hots and a green ground) with instructions for retrofit to existing three or four wire box connections (with or without a neutral wire).   House was built in the 1970’s.

The old cooktop was connected with black & red hots, a white neutral and a ground to the junction box (which does not have a ground wire back to the panel but may have a ground path via the conduit - but I don’t know for sure), so it’s kinda in-between the cases in the instructions (both assume there is a grounding wire).

My initial thought was to hook up red-red, Black-Black, green (cooktop ground)-white (house neutral) roughly in-line with the four-wire retrofit instructions. Would this be my best (safest) bet or would it be advisable to attach the cooktop ground to the junction box (although I’m not sure how I ensure the box is a good ground) and cap off neutral?  I suppose I could also attach the house neutral and cooktop ground to the junction box grounding screw as a “belt-and-suspenders” approach but I don’t know if that introduces other risks?


texts: Should I prime just repaired areas or the entire ceiling before painting?

texts:
Just finished patching two holes in a ceiling due to a leak in the apartment above.

Ceiling is all smooth and ready to paint.

Question, should I prime the areas that were fixed or prime the whole ceiling?

I'm thinking the whole ceiling because the room was last painted over a year ago and it won't be an exact match to the walls. But also, the original paint is discontinued and the new paint was "closely matched" to the original paint color.

Any input advice is greatly appreciated.


texts: How to fix ceiling which squeaks when door is opened

texts: The ceiling in my bedroom creaks when I open and close the bedroom door which is annoying. Is there any way to easily stop this from happening?


texts: How do I identify rough-in plumbing pipes?

texts:
I have just bought a house, and we are looking into finishing the basement, to help with design ideas, i'm looking into what the bathroom will be.

The rough-in pipes are in an odd placement in the basement, and not really sure how I would go about designing a bathroom but attached is a picture of the rough-ins (On the left)

I'm hoping someone can help me identify what these pipes are:

1.) Floor to ceiling pipe with valve sticking out.

2.) Around 4" pipe in far corner

3.) Around 6" pipe in between those two, about 4' from the left wall.


texts:
I have an older bathroom sink fixture that needs some repair.  I was able to remove the allen screw and pull the handles.  But I can't remove anything after that.  I'm assuming the outer threads on the stem are the part that holds the bases on.  But I can't budge the bases by rotating.

Before I put a lot of force on it, is there any other thing I should be doing to remove them?


texts:
I cut down some trees to clear a path in my yard for a new privacy fence but the existing chainlink fence I share with my neighbor is now tipping over. How do I reinforce the chainlink fence without ripping it out?

My goal is to leave the current chainlink fence in tact and build my privacy fence close to it on my side.

Notes: the existing 6' metal chainlink posts are tipping as if they are either broken at the ground or just not seated well anymore.

My thoughts were to dig around the posts and add some quick cement


texts: Goodman AC inside fan will not work at night

texts:
My Goodman AC unit is about 4 years old.  In the past few months, during the night the outside compressor will kick on as required but the inside fan will not run.  The outside unit will continue to run until I shut the system down since the inside of the house is not cooling down.  In the morning and all through the day, the inside blower fan seems to work fine.  It is only at night that the fan does not run.
I have had AC technicians come out several times to investigate the issue but since the issue only happens in the middle of the night, we are unable to replicate the issue in the day.  So far we have replaced the thermostat, the relay switch on the blower unit and the capacitor on the outside compressor unit.  None of these changes has had any impact on the issue.
When this issue happens, I am also not able to turn the fan on using the "fan on" mode.
My technician requested that I start the "fan on" mode early in the day and leave it on through the night to see if the fan shuts off.  I have done this and the fan did not shut off during the night.
Not sure what else to add.  I did read a couple posts that seem to have had a similar issue but I cannot tell what the final resolution to the problem was.
The model number on the inside unit is ASPT47D14AA.


texts:
we have a small section of exposed brick from an old chimney in the kitchen. The chimney is now used as an exhaust for the furnaces in the basement (and maybe for the kitchen exhaust in a different apartment). How can we clean and maintain the brick? Here are the two things I am concerned about:

Sooting? I am not sure what the correct term is in English. It's called "Versottung" in German and I am wondering about the black areas in the pictures.
Crumbling particularly of the mortar. One of the pictures shows a little hole and mortar certain comes off when I scrub it (see residue in one pic). In some limited areas, that happens a lot.

So how do we address these issues and maintain the brick wall. We might want to cover it at some point but it might also remain exposed.


texts:
My kitchen used to get plenty of sunlight through windows, but a building being constructed next to ours has completely blocked the sunlight from entering the kitchen. There is no proper ventilation apart from the windows. Because of this, molds start to develop very soon on the vegetables and lentils. Fruit flies emerge out of nowhere near the vessels even if they are clean. Kitchen is always moist. I am at loss how to handle this. Would love to hear some positive advice. Thanks.

Note: my kitchen is a mere room with no chimneys, no exhaust/ventilation fans. Just few shelves, a kitchen countertop with a stove on it, and a pair of double door windows beside it(through which plenty of sunlight came previous to building construction).