texts: First time changing switches and outlets (receptacles). Anything special I should know?

texts:
I am replacing a bunch of switches and receptacles in my house.

While I understand the basics, this is pretty much my first electrical project, and I figure there must be some hidden "gotchas" or surprises that people run in to when doing this.

Any advice on what to watch out for?


texts: Why is this double switch controlling both light circuits from both switches?

texts:
My house has a double switch that is controlling 2 different lights (A and B). However, when I turn either one of the switches on, both lights turn on. Can somebody explain to me why this isn't working as expected?

I drew a diagram showing how it is wired. I am really confused because it should work as it is... Oh, and all 4 of the red twist caps are actually in the same box.


texts: How can I find the hollow cavities in a concrete block wall through stucco?

texts: I am going to install heavy wall cabinets to a stucco covered block wall. After much research, I decided that the best attachment would be with toggles (Snaptoggle). However, since stucco covers the block and hides it's outline, finding the hollow portion to insert the toggle is almost impossible without drilling a multitude of exploratory holes. Anybody have a better method for finding the hollow portion?


texts: What type of paint should I use to paint a block foundation wall?

texts:
My house has an old well room that is off of the main foundation of the house. I want to clean this space up to use it for storage and part of this process is to repaint the cement block walls.

The walls were already painted white long ago, but are now stained in areas and flaking. I want to repaint with some left over paint the I already have and am wondering which would be best to use. Interior latex satin paint or exterior latex satin paint?


texts: Tree growing into gutter. What's a good strategy?

texts: I'm wondering what is a good long-lasting strategy to deal with it in a way that is respectful of the environment, i.e. the city does not allow cutting any trees.


texts: How to cut a 1 inch thick 12x48 plank in half (thickness)?

texts:
I was wondering how you would go about doing this. I have a 48x12x1 Bamboo blank. I'd like to cut the thickness in half so I have 2 planks. Perfect 0.5 width (with blade) does not matter as long as it's cut in half.

My first thought was to square up the 12" high plank on a table saw and use blade 6-8" high, then cut and flip then planer? Do table saw blades even go that high?

There's a Woodworking club nearby I could use. If I can't do it myself, I can ask one of the guys, but I'd like to give this a go.

Thanks for any help.


texts: What is a proper way to support/suspend cat6 cable in a drop ceiling?

texts:
I am trying to run some cat6 cable in the drop ceiling of my basement.  I want to run 3x CAT6-CMP cables that from what i understand should not rest on ceiling tiles.
From what i have read, the support needs to be attached to something other than the ceiling tile grid. J-hooks seem to be recommended/easy but i don't really understand where and how they need to be attached.
I have attached a couple of photographs of the area , i have highlighted in red the direction in which i want the cables to run.
Thanks


texts: How do I connect my AAL06 dimmer for single pole?

texts:
I just purchased a few of these AAL06 dimmers.
The instructions manual says @easy: connect black to black, green to green, and anything else to white, my situation is very different... here is the wiring diagram.
Note that in picture 1, the lower black cable has power and not the top one, when lights are off.

Can someone tell me which cable to wire to where ? This is just for single pole.
Thank you so much in advance
Patrick


texts:
We had an incident where boiling milk boiled over and spilt all over the counter and dripped onto the microwave where it seems to have entered a space in my microwave door. I would like to open it. However disassembling the screws only got me so far as below. I need to know how to separate the glass panes  now. It does seem similar to the trim around most microwave doors but seems subtly different. If I try to insert a screw driver in and try to lever up the plastic band surrounding the glass, there is some amount of "give" but nothing pops, also it appears to be stressing on the think rubber seal between the glass and the plastic, as soon as I saw this I stopped.

The milk is ultimately inbetween the two panes of glass, so I was wondering if it is possible to disassemble it further. It is a wall mounted microwave cum Convection oven by Aristan.


texts:
The fixture has three white wires tied together and one black.  The new fan has a black, blue, white, and green.  Bmage description here]2]2
Success!  Thanks everyone!


texts: What to use to clear paint a few pieces of brass?

texts:
I want to paint a few pieces of brass, with some kind of clear paint/primer. Removing the pieces and spray painting would be tedious, so I am looking for an option where a brush would be used. I've searched online, and so far have come up with a few things, namely clear metal primer (if it does exist), shellac and epoxy resin.

How would clear metal primer (if it does exist), shellac and epoxy resin work to paint a few small pieces of brass?
What would be the best/a relatively durable paint/primer to use on brass?

Regards.


texts: Wiring in a new light fixture and switch to existing switches?

texts:
Sorry for the silly question. It seems so basic to me. I have dealt with 12v DC car/computer wiring since I was a kid, but have finally purchased a house. Residential wiring is kind of just screwing me up and I feel like I might be overthinking things, so pardon my potentially confusing question.
I have a 3-switch panel next to a closet. Only two of the three switches are being used, leaving the third switch unwired. Each switch is wired to its own fluorescent light fixture in my drop ceiling. I want to add a light fixture (just a single standard 60w light bulb) to this unused switch.
However, I am getting a little confused. I pulled the switch cover plate off and it appears that there are two, sheathed, three-wire feeds coming into the switch box (hope that makes sense, don't know the proper term for the wiring). Each switch is wired to its own wire set.
Grounds are left disconnected (as opposed to the switch itself). Hots go to the hot terminal, and whites go to the neutral terminal on the switch.
I believe the switches are wired like in the following diagram:

First, what's the terminology for this sort of wiring? Second, is it possible to add my light fixture to the unused switch by piggy backing off of the hot wire? I was considering this, but I am a little confused. Can this be done? Or does there need to be a connection to a main neutral wire?
With my drop ceiling, it should be pretty simple to rewire the other light fixtures but if I can avoid it, that would be nice. Thanks!


texts: Is it code compliant for a new construction bathroom vent (no shower) to go down and then over?

texts: I have a challenge on my second floor where a curved steel roof insulated with spray foam makes the best option for a half (toilet/sink) bathroom fan's vent to route down and laterally out the side of the home. I know appliance vent pipes need to keep a slope up and out. But a "fart fan" - is there any code prohibiting the vent duct to go down and over?


texts: Loud knocking noise in house with radiators and old plumbing

texts:
I'm staying in a three story home with radiators and old plumbing (probably copper). I'm a guest and it's a rental with a management company (they fix a few things here and there but not most things).

The noise happens intermittently all night every night. Likely also intermittently all day but I'm not usually in the bedroom at night. It's quite loud. I can hear it in the ceiling (or maybe walls) and it seems to come from different areas in tandem (like a call and response). Best description would be a clicking sound.

I was thinking of trying to bleed the radiators but seems like it could also be the supply plumbing instead, so I'm not sure where to start or what to do. I don't know much about plumbing noises. There's at least 11 radiators in the house.

Suggestions? Get ear plugs?


texts: Do I need a bathroom fan to increase house ventilation?

texts:
I had an energy audit done recently and one of the recommendations was to air seal and reinsulate the attic which was expected.  What I did not expect was the recommendation to install a bathroom fan which would provide the equivalent of constant 20 CFM air exchange.  In effect the fan would counteract some of the air sealing efforts which feels very counterintuitive, as in the winter it will suck more cold air in.

The house is 1600 sq ft and the blower door test was 2810 CFM50.  The estimate after air sealing is 2248 CFM50.  I understand that houses need to get fresh air but 2248 still seems high.

edit: Thanks for the feedback.  To provide a little more detail, no I don't currently have a bathroom fan.  The fan to be installed would be 110CFM but it would be controlled by a SmartExhaust switch which would be set to run a 20 minutes per hour, as well as come on when the light is on.  It claims to be ASHRAE 62.2 compliant which I believe is the standard they are trying to meet.


texts: Why won't propane come out of my nearly-new propane tank?

texts:
I bought a new propane tank (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-20-lb-Empty-Propane-Tank-309791/202034840) and had it filled up, then used it on two separate days to fuel a weed burner torch. Worked fine. The last use was last Sunday, just a few days ago. I went to fire up the weed burner again today and nothing came out of the tank. No gas, and no hissing sound when the valve is first opened. I can open the valve all the way and stick my nose right against the tank's outlet and I don't smell any gas coming out at all.

There's clearly propane still in there because the tank's heavy and I can both hear and feel it sloshing around if I give the tank a shake. What could be the problem?


texts: Why don't my lights work after I added a GFCI outlet to the circuit?

texts: I replaced an old outlet with a GFCI outlet in my bathroom.  I know that I've installed it correctly because I've tested it with a night light.  But I can't get the light fixture above my vanity to turn on now.  I've also tested the light bulbs elsewhere to make sure that they work.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: One Furnace, Dual Zones -- Install Sensi on each?

texts:
Just bought a new (<6 years old) house and it's two stories, but only has a single furnace in the attic and a single condenser outside.  However, there are two thermostats that work (semi) independently of one another.

The master on the second floor seems to have more options than the first floor thermostat.  They are Honeywell models and I know there is a damper control in the attic vents to turn off the air flow on one side or the other if it's thermostat is set to off.

I'm sure I cannot have heat upstairs and cool downstairs since it's still just one system.  But I can control the temperature per floor with each thermostat.

So my question is can I replace this master/slave combo with a Sensi programmable on each?  I had them at my previous home and love the ability to easily program and control with my phone.

Will they automatically talk to one another with regard to "heat on" for example?  Is there something else in the attic/furnace area I should be looking at as well?

Any tips or advice would be helpful as well. :)


texts: New shower in new house has been causing serious problems.  Initially leaking out both sides and down through to downstairs along copper pipes into a cupboard containing gas heating equipment.  Got that stopped after lots of sealing.  Then water started to leak out both sides of shower at the joints where the wall frame and the base of the shower frame meet.  Despite numerous sealing and removing door a new door has been fitted and again the same leak is appearing.  Any ideas???? Driving me crazy and contractor doesn’t seem to know!


texts: How can I determine the precise location of a clog in a drain pipe under ground?

texts:
I have a drain pipe that goes through my garden, and it's clogged. I've cleared the pipe from a manhole cover, but not 100 %. I also have a special type of water cable that is designed to clear blockages.

The problem is that when the cable stops after 10-15 meters, I don't know where.. I'd like to find out where the block is, so that I can dig down to the pipe and do some brute force.

How can I find the pipe, from under the ground? Use a key finder with high noise, that I can attach to the cable and put it in the pipe? Would this be loud enough so that I can hear it from 0.5-1 meter deep ground?

I appreciate all creative answers here!


texts: New timer switch has a blue wire instead of red wire

texts:
I just replaced a mechanical timer switch (noisy) with a digital switch. The old switch had red, white, and black wires and the new switch has red, white, blue wires. I simply connected the new blue wire as if it were a black wire. Now I have a bathroom fan (in a different room than the switch) that responds to the timer. This fan was not controlled by the old switch, so I wonder if the old switch was faulty (we’ve only owned the house for a year). Or, did I do something bad by wiring the blue wire?
Note that I actually do not know what the old switch controlled. We were told it was important for ventilation but we never actually heard any fans running until now.


texts: How to repaint a metal door and keep the paint from scratching off?

texts: I need to paint an exterior door that not only is metal, but has a small amount of rust on the outer edges. The door is used quite often and takes a lot of wear and tear. The past paint jobs have not held up very long and I have been given the task to prevent this from happening again. I primed, painted and put a laquor finish on the door, thinking this would do the job. Nope, didn't work! Any suggestions?


texts: What am I missing/How do I rehang my closet's bi-fold doors?

texts:
The last owner did a lot of home projects, and I've determined that they did a terrible job on just about everything.  So keep that in mind here, and I won't be surprised if the answer is "redo everything yourself".  But anyway:

I have standard bi-fold closet doors.  One side was not hung properly - when the door closed all the way it would hang "low" and the top would easily slip off the track.  Eventually the door just fell off the track.  I finally got around to re-hanging it and was completely unable.  When I put the door back in the bracket on the bottom, the top peg is only high enough to just graze the top bracket.  It is simply too short to put the door back up.

I initially assumed that something might have gone wrong with the bottom bracket (a shim moved out of place?) causing the whole thing to lose some height.  However, after close inspection, this doesn't seem to be the case or even possible.  I looked at the other door (which hangs fine) and noticed that while the fallen door only has a peg on the bottom, the other door appears to have something more like a screw.  As a result, perhaps a piece fell off the fallen door when it fell?  Its been a few weeks, so if a piece came loose it's probably gone (this is a toddler's room).

Did I lose a piece, resulting in the door no longer fitting in the track?  Or is something else wrong with this door?  Either way, what is the best way to get this thing hung up again?

Here is the bottom bracket:

And the top bracket.  It is definitely a bit loose and has a poorly-executed shim:

Here is the bottom of the bi-fold door, which is just a fixed peg:

And for reference, here's the bottom of the other door, which works fine (and looks like a screw, not a peg).


texts: Cavity wall insulation brick replacement

texts:
I have an external cracked brick and want to replace it,  but I'm not sure how to deal with the cavity wall insulation.

What concerns me is:

1) when I remove the brick,  the wall insulation will spill out.

2) when trying to replace the brick, the mortar will be pushed into the cavity and sit behind the brick.

(which may connect the external wall to the internal wall with mortar,  thus damp!)

Notes:

I haven't any more insulation to refill any lost.
I have a grinder,  with mortar removal disk,  to get the brick out.
I've searched for videos,  but I can't find any with how to deal with insulation.

Any help would be welcome,

Thanks,

Reggie.


texts: Can I rehang a door in a metal-clad frame?

texts:
I have a metal door frame with wood door, it's actually thin layer of metal over wood on the door frame. I need to rehang the door from opening inward (right to left) to opening outward right to left. So, originally there are metal plates with holes for hinges and lock strike plate on the inside of the door frame (to hang the door to open inwards). But there is nothing like that on the outside of the door frame (just metal sheet over wood as far as I can see). So how do I chisel out this metal frame for hinges and how do I drill holes and carve a space for lock strike?

I have never seen a metal frame like this. I don't think I will be able to pry out any of this metal without destroying the door frame.


texts: It doesn't seem to have screws nor a button. I need to rewire the cables because of them started to split. Any ideas how to get it out?


texts:
I have the MUA intake vent on the patio of my condo, located on the ground floor, so the patio has a ceiling.  Frequently when I barbecue, smoke rises and moves to MUA intake, and gets into the mechanical room in enough concentration to trip a smoke alarm.  The MUA pump does not itself have a damper, so I'm interested in finding a damper that I can install over the outdoor vent, that I can manually close whenever I operate the grill.  Any suggestions for such a unit?
The vent is located just below the patio ceiling, just out of arm's reach, so I would want to have some kind of lever or screw to open and close it from below.


texts: Why does turning my kitchen light off turn on my outside light?

texts: when I turn my fluorescent kitchen light off, my outside p.i.r security light comes on, why? the problem started when my father moved the p.i.r up above the door


texts: how can I clean my linseed treated wooden doors?

texts: My beautiful Knotty Alder patio doors appear that dirt or mold has penetrated the linseed oil we applied to them before hanging them. How can I clean the doors? What should I use to clean them?


texts: How much do I need to sand before painting?

texts: I want to paint my home's varnished window sills. How do I know when I have sanded them enough?


texts:
We're remodeling our bathroom and I would like to remove a wall that appears to be there for looks because of the style in the late 60s. I'm wondering if there is any possibility that this wall is a load bearing wall or if I'll have any issues when I remove it. It appears to be more of a decorative wall to me but I would like a second opinion. The wall runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists but there isn't anything bearing down on it when I go in the attic and the exterior wall which I know is load bearing is only about 5ft away. There are 3 or 4 ceiling joist that cross the wall and I plan to replace 1 (maybe more) of the ceiling joist because we found some termite damage when we pulled off the drywall. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have attached 2 pictures of the wall I am referring to and I can go into the attic to take more picture if that would help to see what's up there.

EDIT:

Here are pictures of the attic above the wall. In the first image the wall I'd like to remove is just on the other side of the duct work. Second image is for a reference on how far away the duct work is from the wall. Third image is of the top of the wall (looking down onto it from the attic) with the insulation moved out of the way.

[![Wall location in attic][1]][1] [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcUBh.png

[![Wall distance from vent][2]][2]  [2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/kvi9h.png

[![Top of wall from attic][1]][1]  [1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMMmn.png


texts: I replaced my 1/2 hp well pump a month ago, after over a decade of use. All seemed well until short cycling began. I hope I am using that term correctly. Essentially what is happening is the pressure switch cuts on almost immediately after a tap is opened and cycles on and off at a very rapid rate during the time the tap is open. When this first happened, i drained the pressure tank completely and checked the air pressure. Very high. Bled the air down to 38 (for a 40/60) and things seemed normal for a week or two. Then it did it again. Checked the pressure and same result. I've just bled off the pressure a second time....what is happening?


texts: How do I determine which outlets are on the same circuit without power?

texts:
I just bought an old house that I'm currently fixing up.  Right now, the house doesn't have any power or water because I don't want to pay for power and water before I move in.  I have a few chipped receptacles, but instead of replacing those few by themselves, I'm instead going to buy and install gfci outlets at the start of each circuit and move those old receptacles to where the chipped ones are.  Of course though, I don't know which outlets are on which circuits, or even how many different circuits my house has for outlets.

How can I figure out which outlets are in the same circuit, preferably on the cheap?  Is it even possible to do?  I was thinking that if I had some sort of cheap ac power generator, I could attach it to the load wires and take note of which outlets start receiving power, but that sounds too expensive.

Actually, if the wires aren't connected to anything, could I technically just attach a 9-volt dc battery to the load wires?  Would it basically just be like a square wave with really slow hz?  How stupid is this idea?


texts: Keeping washing machine lines warm in a cold garage

texts:
A month or two ago I installed a washer in my uninsulated garage. Now that we're getting some very cold weather coming up I'm worried about the rubber water lines freezing. I did put some foam insulation on the lines but I don't think they'll be enough. I put a thermometer in there and it tends to stay around 30-40 degrees in there. This weekend we're going to get into the negatives overnight so I was curious as to what everyone's thoughts were on an electric space heater. It would be right near the washing machine as well as the oil tank, but the furnace is in the cellar.

Obviously every precaution says don't leave it unattended and such but do you think I'd be okay for at least letting it run for a little while during the day to generate some heat? If not what else do you suggest? Am I getting too concerned about the rubber lines freezing?

Thanks.


texts: Where do I connect my new T-Stat in my Weil Mclain boiler

texts: I have a new smart thermostat and looking to connect to my boiler. As you can see in the picture there are (2) yellow wires which are labeled 24v control. One yellow wire is connected to the Y terminal and the other yellow wire is connected to the G terminal. The wire from the current thermostat is connected to the Y terminal and the G terminal with the common wire wrapped up and not connected to anything. Do I connect the control wire to both yellow control wires? Or just one and if only one, which one does it connect to? Or does it connect to a different terminal?


texts: Main box amp requirement for 2.4 amp refrigerator

texts: My LG refrigerator has a 2.4 amp rating. What size breaker do I need For this? The only other on this line is a GFCI with three plugs.


texts:
Have been investigating leak on my 3 season room. Not certain it is related to this finding but discovered flashing around my chimney in an interesting state.

Big gap in corner and also the epoxy/sealant that the flashing was pushed against at the top of the flashing was not sealed/tight anymore (suspect water was getting under/behind it) - I caulked this up. Peeking inside of this gap I can see a varied state of wood.

Should I install some sort of kickout flashing?
Can/Should I gap fill this with caulk/foam - we had yellow jackets in
the wall on another side of the house we disposed of so I know
they'll be looking for a new home this year.

Apologize that the last few images are bad, they're from a 3rd party app to use the cheap amazon boroscope.

Inside the gap


texts: Can I protect a dimmer switch circuit with a GFCI outlet?

texts:
I'm installing some line-level-dimmable LED undercabinet lighting in my kitchen. I'd like to protect it with one of the existing GFCI outlets in the area. My sequence would be GFCI > dimmer switch > LED lighting.

Are there any problems with this scenario? Would I be wiser to use a different device, such as a protected switch combo or a new home run from a GFCI breaker?

Note: I'm aware that it's a violation of code to control standard receptacles with dimmer switches. Assume that I'll use dedicated dimmable receptacles such as those provided by Lutron so we can avoid side discussion.


texts: Should I do something about these cracks in the basement wall?

texts:
I noticed some cracks in my basement wall that are bulging out.

Also, there are some patches and a vertical line near the corner where the material (I think it's plaster over the cement) is chipping off.

Outside, the foundation wall seems to be okay aside from some gaps in the caulking between the foundation wall and the cement walkway above the corner where the vertical crack is.

I don't really care about the cosmetic cracking, but should these examples be a cause for greater concern? I'm guessing I should repair that caulking job outside, but what, if any, further action should I take?


texts: I live in a older mobile home that sits on a concrete slab about 3 feet off the ground at my work.  I recently had a visit from the gas co.   They wanted to replace the old gas meter but apparently found voltage coming from the meter that registered from 1 to 4 volts depending on where it was tested. This includes earth ground and even the mobile home itself.  The gas meter sits just above the dirt next to the fence and a galvanized pipe runs from it across the concrete slab approx. 12 feet where it bends upward and runs along the frame branching off to the dryer and then to the water heater ,heater, and to the oven. There is a ground clamp and wire attatched to the trailer frame and gas pipe about 8 inches long.   I was told i needed to have a electrition correct the problem before they could continue.   I was reading another similar post here but thought i would be specific as to my situation before calling anyone out.  Is it possible to trace this out myself by cutting the individual breakers and checking for voltage to narrow it down or is that a waste of time?  Btw, i am of corse not a professional but like to learn.


texts: Why, in the same light bulb, three of the six leds flick, and the other do not?

texts:
As the title of the post says:

What could be the reason to have three of the six leds of the same light bulb, blinking?  while the other three don´t ?

Thanks so much for your help.

Tyrus.


texts: Waste cleanout plug too big or too small

texts:
I have a 1950s home and it started to smell like poop in the basement. It didn't overflow, I see the water, but when the cap is off the smell is terrible.

There's a hole in the concrete floor where the sewage/waste cleanout is and an old cast iron plug that's 1/4"-3/8" too big for the hole so it just sits on top (from whoever left it).

I've gone to big box stores and bought a 3 1/2" and 4" cleanout plug, and the same sizes for expandable test plugs.

The cast iron pipe area I cleaned out with a screw driver and a tooth brush, and I don't see any threads (large or small).

The 4" sizes are roughly 1/4" too big and the 3 1/2" would fall through.

Is there any other option just to plug it even if temporarily so I'm not breathing this in for days to come?

I used a plastic container to sit on top, weighted down, and I placed plywood on top of the hole to seal it temporarily but it is not effective.

Help!


texts: Should I remove moulding before adding a plaster ceiling?

texts:
We have an 85-year old house with textured ceilings.  We had a plasterer advise us to install new plastered ceilings over the old ceiling; if we do so, without removing moulding, the new ceiling will cover half an inch of the moulding.  But if we do remove the moulding, we are worried about the risk of damage to the wall.  Does anyone have experience with a similar issue?
Edit:  Sorry, I should have been more precise:  they are going to but a blueboard and then a skim coat of plaster.


texts: Could a high limit switch cause the furnace blower to run continuously?

texts: My furnace was running fine. The I noticed that the unit was blowing cold air. Checked the furnace burners and they were off. I turned off the unit on the thermostat and the blower continued to run. Only way to turn off unit was at breaker box. A/c unit still work normally. Could this be the limit switch on the furnace?


texts: What is the most common length for stair nosing to overhang?

texts:
Can any builders tell me how far their stair nosing overhangs? I've read that 1.25" is common.

I'm having my stairs rebuilt and the overhang will affect the location of the bottom stair. Also, do you include the overhang amount when measuring the run of the stair? My stairs are going to be 8.1" tall due to lack of headroom and if the run is too long they will not be within the inch of (2X rise)+run=25. I want to make sure I'm measuring the run correctly so they are comfortable.


texts:
I am building a fence by myself and was wondering if 4x4 pressure treated posts will be sufficient to support my 5ft gates?
I would use 6x6 but they are going to bee too heavy for me to handle by myself.
I live in the southeast USA and will sink the posts 2ft here in the Georgia clay for a 6ft tall fence.


texts: HVAC Return Duct - Joist Panning alternative

texts:
Joist Panning(Lining) seems to still be popular. However, a have read in a few places that joist panning is difficult to seal and can pull air from unconditioned spaces. I am looking for an alternative to replace joist panning that is easier to seal and better all around.

So far the only option I have found was to use hard pipe. If I wanted to replace a joist panned return air duct with an equivalent hard pipe, what would be required?

Joist Cavity is roughly 14 1/2 in x 10 in. Stud cavity is roughly 3 1/4 in x 14 1/2 in. Now, I dont know if I can assume this, but isn't the air flow limited by the smallest opening? Could I assume, to be able to match this, I would just need to get as close to the stud cavity size as possible to retain similar air flow?

The closest hard pipe opening I found was this. http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-fittings/3-1-4-x-12-x-6-stack-head-9-throat-each/p-1444432289493-c-14260.htm?tid=6704999512863625561
Which is 3 1/4 in x 12 in which is decently close to the stud cavity. I could then transition it to 7" round duct. Will this option be similar air flow as the panned version?


texts: Multiple bulb pendant lamp, grounding wire for metal fixture

texts:
Hypothetically speaking, if a person is adding a ground wire to a 3 prong plug in pendant fixture with multiple bulbs in parallel  and the body of the pendant is metal, does there need to be a ground wire to EACH bulb socket  or just a ground wire to one of them/connecting to the metal body?
Hypothetical #1 - If each lamp socket has ground screws, this would make sense to ground each one if necessary, or, only one if all metal is connected?
Hypothetical #2 - if the lamp sockets are only 2 wire  and a ground is being added to be in contact with the metal body, does a ground only need to be connected "once" or  does it need to be run to all sockets?


texts: Confused by apparent shorting damage at side and back terminals

texts:
I have a intermittent kitchen circuit and caused by a flaky light switch.  When I open pull out the light switch, I see apparent shorting damage at the side and back terminals (see image).
The circuit was working intermittently.  The hot supply was plugged into the back stab/quick connect and supply to downstream plugs was connected to the side terminal.  I believe my intermittent circuit was caused by a flaky back stab connection - the back stab fell out when I removed the plug and there is no visible contact inside.

Here's my question:  Since the side and back terminals are connected within the switch, why would I have shorting damage between those?  Plus my circuit breaker never tripped, no one smelled or heard a short.


texts: How should I attach a toilet flange and toilet with this particular situation?

texts:
OK, after doing some research I believe the best way to install a toilet is on a flange that is attached on top of a finished floor, and if a flange is too low or too high there are ways to accommodate it.  But I need some expert advice in a situation where I may have some flexibility, but not to do it the ideal way.  Let me explain.
  Here is my current situation, and I'd rather not try to change it:  There is solid, stable subfloor and concrete backer board that surround an ABS drain with a 4" inner diameter.  The drain is clean of wax or adhesives and there is no flange currently attached.  There is solid, level tile here too but the opening in the tile around the drain is about 8 inches.  So a standard flange can fit inside this opening and be bolted/screwed down securely through the backerboard and into the subfloor.  But this would result in the flange being lower than it should be.  The surrounding tile would be level with the top of the flange (approximately) instead of the bottom, as it would be if the tile were cut closer to the drain and the flange could go on top of it.
  So I have some options, but not unlimited options.  What is the best approach at this point?  Thanks.
  Edit for additional clarification:  by "not wanting to change my situation" I mean I do not want to retile the area; I need to work with the situation as it is.  A commenter suggested I just install the flange, then use a known solution for situations where the flange is below the finished floor level.  That's a good suggestion.  An alternative might be to install the flange in some way where it would not be too low to begin with, which might be possible because I have the luxury of not having yet installed any flange.  So I want to know which of these approaches is better, and, what specific technique or product is suggested for that approach.  I hope this makes my question more clear.


texts: Can I use projecting bolt shield anchors in AAC concrete blocks?

texts:
I just bought a 60” TV, and a very heavy duty bracket to attach it to the wall. The wall itself is made of aerated autoclaved concrete blocks, and I have read you need to be careful about what kind of anchors you use in these lightweight blocks.

The TV stand came with 6 very strong-looking bolts, which I’ve read are called shield anchor projecting bolts. They look like this:

In my local hardware store the anchors labelled as AAC-compatible look far smaller and weaker, made of plastic, so I’d like to use these projecting bolts if possible, but I haven’t been able to find any information tells me that it would be safe to do so.


texts: Do I need to put mortar between wood and backerboard on a mixed wood/tile floor?

texts:
We have a hardwood insert on our kitchen floor and we will be surrounding it with slate tile.  Also the room next to the kitchen is all hardwood floor.  Our heights are correct for the tile (with the backboard installed) but i'm curious as do I put down thin-set mortar between the backerboard and wood and then grout between the tile and wood as well?

It seems like I should but I haven't found much information on tile/wood combinations.

edit: picture!

+++ #### wood and tile
+++ ---- wood and backerboard
======== sub-floor

So to clarify, do I need to put mortar between the wood and backerboard?


texts:
I have minor imperfections in my fixer upper. Don't intend on re-drywalling.

What's the best way to re-paint & cover imperfections?


texts: Where do I attach the grounding conductor to my bedroom light fixture?

texts: I have a problem, I broke the center piece that holds the glass part on my light fixture in my room. I purchased a replacement and removed the two screws holding my fixture on to the ceiling. Now I need to put it back together. I see that there is the ground wire but I did not notice where was attached to. Does that wire need to be screwed in with the centerpiece?


texts: I am trying to clear a clog in my bath drain with toe touch stop. I have removed the top portion by unscrewing it. I can’t turn the screw in the bottom portion at all. How can I get it out?  Thanks!


texts: two dimmer switches in one box operating two ceiling fans and lights...how to wire

texts:
In my current box I have two single pole switches.  one turns on the lights for two ceiling fans.  the other switch turns on the fans for both ceiling fans.
I want to put dimmers on both fans and lights.
both single pole switches have three wires (no ground) feeding them.
One switch has two red and one white.
The other switch has black and white stripe, black, and white.
How do I make the connections?


texts: When can spackle be used instead of mud?

texts:
My wife was reading this article, wherein drywall damage due to the removal of construction adhesive was fixed with spackle.

HOW TO REMOVE A DATED VANITY BACKSPLASH

I thought this kind of repair required joint compound ("mud") and not spackle.

When can spackle, which is easier to work with and dries much faster, be used instead of mud, which dries slower, but much harder?


texts:
I have a dimmer switch which is also controlling the outlet. Now when I dim the light and something is plugged in the outlet my ceiling lights start flickering. I want to make my outlet always hot.
Attached are the pictures of wiring.


texts: Questions concerning dual flush converters

texts:
I'm considering purchasing dual-flush converters for our toilets and was curious if anyone had thoughts on them. Specifically, I'd like to know:

Are there any major disadvantages to using them?
How difficult are they to install?
Are there any specific considerations to keep in mind for houses using septic systems?

-M


texts:
Recently, as in September [Final close date was 11/13/2015] this year, I bought a house. This house is on an extreme incline. I would like to level out this incline.

The front first floor of the house sits level with the ground. The property is 120' long and 40' wide. The rear of the property is ~23' below the front of the property. I want to build a wall at the edges while filling the inside until it is level to the front.

I know I have to offset the walls, but what I want to know is with a max of 25' walls slowly turning into level, how much property will I loose. Basically, how much do I offset the walls. I plan to compact the earth as I go along and the project will take place over a few years to help settle the dirt. The final result should be a trapezoid from over head.

In all honesty I considered asking this in Mathematics and Physics since I'm not sure this is reasonably doable. The bricks I'm using are mostly the red ones used to build houses I think 3-5/8" x 2-1/4" x 8". The dirt is fill dirt that I'll be collecting from other sites.

I've done some very basic research, but most of it assumes the wall is a max of six feet.

Edit: I agree with the answers and comments provided. I'm thinking about just  building a large porch instead. My main concern regarding the hill is that once I clear the brush away, the hill would erode. Maybe I could use several small walls to make a sort of giant steps?

Update: I did a survey of the area and found that it is kind of a giant hole. Like some huge machine cut the valley out. The walls on the other side are more sheer than my side. It also looks like there was a wall near the bottom of my side of the hill but it gave out maybe 10 years or more ago. The underbrush isn't exactly retaining soil either. I think even grass would be a step up. I'm going to start cleaning the area up after the next hard frost since mosquitoes are still around the area despite one frost. I need a hardy non-invasive plant that will spread out once planted to hold the soil.

Edit2: (Wish I could add comments) If I could get the city to raise two sewer caps or even let me raise them, I could fill in the valley. I'd need about 20,000 cubic yards of dirt. I can get the dirt [shipping would be expensive], but the city won't even let me fix a side walk out front so, it's a no-go.


texts: How can I tell what kind of paint is on my stucco?

texts:
I have a stucco house that has been painted. I would like to somehow figure out what kind of paint it is. The reason being that I would like to re-color the house with a high-quality mineral paint, and the application will be greatly complicated and increased in cost if I first have to sandblast off the existing paint.

Here's a close-up of the existing painted stucco:

If it's regular latex paint, I'll need to have it sandblasted, because the new mineral paint won't adhere to it. But if it's cement or mineral paint, then I think I'll be able to paint right over it, because the new mineral paint will be able to bond with those types of paints.

Does anybody know of a good way to figure out what kind of paint is currently on there?


texts: Is it normal for air to be leaking from this part of the HVAC?

texts:
First time living in a house. While I was cleaning (AC was also running) I noticed that somewhat cold air leaks from the circled part of the furnace on either sides.
Not sure if this this information is relevant: My electric company shows usage comparison to neighbors (mostly town houses), it says I am about 30-40% higher than my neighbors.
Is this normal for air to be leaking here? Should I do anything about it?


texts: Exterior Tiling falling off of front step

texts:
The front step of my house is concrete with tiling on top (installed by the previous owner). Recently the tiling starting falling off. You can see from the picture below that between the concrete structure and tile is a bed of loose gravel. See the below image (underneath the gravel is the concrete structure)

Is this a suitable substrate for tiling? Can I just add new grout on top of the gravel and reset the fallen tiles?


texts: Electrical wiring/grounding - continuity via metal junction box?

texts:
Question about grounding in a metal junction box.

I have a 4x4 steel junction box, with 4 cables coming into it. 1 cable comes in from the main panel, 3 separate cables go out to 3 separate receptacles, for a total of 4 cables in the box. All cable is 14/2 NM-B.

I've got a bunch or Ideal In-Sure 4-port connectors that I've been using for various connections. (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-34-Yellow-In-Sure-4-Port-Connector-100-Pack-30-1034P/202894312) They'll work fine for the 4 white wires and 4 black wires, but since I need to ground the box, I've got a total of 5 grounding wires that I need to connect (the 4 grounding wires coming into the box, plus the wire attached to the box's grounding screw).

So my question is this: Can I ground one of the grounding wires to the box via a grounding clip (which I happen to have a few of), and then connect the other 4 wires via the In-Sure connector? Is that sufficient for maintaining continuity? Does it satisfy NEC requirements?

Grounding wire from receptacle -> grounding clip -> body of junction box -> box's grounding screw -> (short) grounding wire -> In-Sure connector -> back to panel

The junction box is not in a location where rust should be an issue. And of course the grounding wire that I'll attach to the grounding clip will not be the one that's coming from the box's grounding screw.

[I know there are other ways I can properly ground everything, but ... well, I guess I'm just curious if this would code-compliant. If not, then I'll probably just twist all 5 wires together into a wire nut. I just don't like the fact that I can't see the quality of the connection within the wire nut, and I get suspicious when there are any more than 3 wires.]


texts:
We have had a swing set built in between two platforms on a climbing frame.

There are two 5m long runs of 2 x 4 with a foot in between them.  In that foot width there are monkey bars.  We have 4 swings and have had to attach wood between to reduce movement BUT we have drilled holes for 8 swing hooks and all the monkey bars were drilled too.  They are held with long screws into the juxtaposing legs / platforms.  I have three kids and it moves a LOT when they swing.  I’m VERY anxious that it isn’t safe or that the load bearing capacity is insufficient.  It is not supported in the middle.  Can anyone help?  Am I being paranoid?


texts:
The paint in our kitchen is failing.  The walls are plaster.  Initially we thought the paint failed because the plaster cracked and was shifting.  We repaired the plaster, scraped all lose paint, cleaned, primed and painted.  That paint lasted for about 6 months and then started to fail.  We did the process again and the paint lasted for 2 years and then started to fail again.  Eventually the paint starts to scale and bubble and separate from the wall.  We just got done scraping a majority of the loose bits off (mostly because we were tired of paint falling down in our cooking area).  I'm confused by what I see.  Here are some pictures:

The above picture is the ceiling.  There appears to be 3 layers here.  The paint, a thin brittle layer, and the plaster.  What is this thin brittle layer?  I assume since it is brittle I would need to scrape it completely off to be able to prime and paint over the plaster.  Is that correct?

Some walls also have dark spots behind the paint.  Is that mold?  There are more places without visible dark spots like this that are failing than there are.  Would I be able to clean, prime and paint this, or is there something else fundamentally wrong here?

Here is another picture of what we're dealing with.

The main question we have is what steps do we need to take to successfully repaint the walls and have them smooth and the paint not fail.  Is this possible, or should we look into ripping them out and replacing with drywall?  That seems like overkill and far off in our budget so not sure what my options are.


texts: One light switch powers two separate light switches

texts:
At the top of my stairs leading to my basement, I have one light switch (Top Switch) that powers two separate light switches at the bottom of my stairs.

At the bottom of my stairs, the left light switch (Left Switch) controls a receptacle (Left Receptacle) to the left of my stairs.  The right light switch (Right Switch) controls an overhead light fixture (OL) to light the bottom of my stairs.

How it works now:

If TS is on position and LS (or RS) is on position = LR (or OL) power is on

If TS is on position and LS (or RS) is off position = LR (or OL) power is off

If TS is off position and LS (or RS) is on position = LR (or OL) power is off

If TS is off position and LS (or RS) is off position = LR (or OL) power is on

If I remove the light switch at the top of the stairs and make that permanently hot, how do I change the two 3-way switches at the bottom of the stairs to single-pole switches?  I am upgrading the two switches at the bottom of the stairs to Lutron dimmers which are single pole.  I plan to use the power from the Left Receptacle to power a set of new recessed lights.  I plan to use the power from the overhead light fixture to power a second set of new recess lights.

I'm using LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit.

Presently, the left switch controls a receptacle. I plan to use the power from the receptacle to power one set of recessed lights that I am installing. I will put a blank face plate on this receptacle.

And presently, the right switch controls an overhead light fixture that lights the bottom of the staircase. I was planning on using the power to this overhead light fixture to power a second set of recessed lights that I am installing.

There are neutrals available in all boxes.

Photo of the light switch at the top of the stairs

Photo of the two 3-way switches at the bottom of the stairs


texts: cement countertop polyurethane tacky in spots

texts: We had cement countertops installed a week ago.  The contractor applied a thick layer of polyurethane (not sure the brand, but he mixed 2 parts of something) within a day or so, most of the poly was dry and smooth.  There are spots that are still very tacky though.  Is this normal?  And how long do I need to wait for it to dry or cure, whatever the term may be?


texts: Can I add a slave to existing thermostat?

texts:
The bedrooms in my condominium looks something like this:

A common HVAC unit provides heat and air conditioning between bedrooms, with the thermostat being in the Master BR.

Problem:

Bedroom 2 loses heat far faster than the Master, due to having more windows, and this goes undetected by the thermostat.

The current solutions are to either:

Overheat the MBR to keep the 2nd BR livable, or
Put a space heater in the 2nd BR.

Currently we've been doing #2, but it's a kludge and we're looking for something better. Is there a way to add a slave thermostat, preferrably wireless, in the second bedroom so the system knows the room is getting too cold?

Notes:

The unit uses Honeywell T6570 or T8570 thermostats (Datasheet Here). I can't tell
which without detaching one from the wall.
The unit is rented so we cannot make drastic/irreversible changes.


texts: Water heater pilot light won't stay lit. Plumber says it's attic heat

texts:
So I've heard most of the answers in other similar threads around here but this one was new to me.

I recently bought an older house and it has a natural gas water heater in the attic. Nothing terribly unusual about it. It's been running relatively well until recently, when the pilot light started to go out on a semi-frequent basis. I have a home warranty we got when we purchased the house, so I paid the money for a service call and the guy who came out told my wife that there was nothing wrong with the tank, that the attic was getting too hot and it was making the tank shut the pilot light off.

We had a large tree removed from one end of the house. That end also has a non-functional fan (we think they only had powered fans to exhaust hot air) so it's possible the attic is getting hotter than it did before. The bank (who rehabbed it after a repo) added two wind turbines to the main part to exhaust air. This plumber said they didn't move enough. He suggested putting a box fan near the tank to help keep it cooler.

This doesn't make any sense to me, and it sounded like he was trying to get the warranty company out of a repair. Has anyone heard of such a thing?


texts:
Is it durable/applicable if I make a 3" tick stair treads out of dry construction 2x12 lumber as 1½" core glued to ¾" hardwood (red oak or finer spicy) all way around?
What will be the challenges?
In term of wood movement what is matters and need to be considered?
To get a more natural look I am thinking of edge bending on front to top faces.
The weights will carry by a mono steel stringer linked by a long metal bracket.(no risers)
The tread width should be 3'2”.
In term of my experience and tools, this will be my first hardwood project! and I am thinking about purchasing 12” thickness planer and electric hand planer. Already have the sliding compound miter saw and table saw.
Somebody will make the stringer and the brackets for me.
The 2x12 spf lumber tend to bow and I saw that on 20% of the old treads that I removed. I'm thinking of using 11 peaces of altered grain direction 2¼x1½x38" and one 2¼ x ½ x38" for the core(base) instead of on solid 2x12 and cover it with ¾" hardwood on top and face and veneer on other faces
Appreciate your thought and experience.


texts: How do I disassemble the fill valve on a Kohler toilet?

texts: Kohler elongated toilet runs constantly after refilling.  Float does not move up to shut off the flow.


texts:
I recently moved into a house with wood 1/8 inch panels in the basement. I am planning to mount by TV on the panel (approx 60"), but I'm not sure if the wood paneling can hold that much weight. I would be using toggle bolts to secure the mount, which have enough holding power, but can the wood panel hold it?

I found a number of existing answers for all types of materials, but I didn't see any that matches this scenario (toggle bolts on wood panel).


texts: How to replace non IC-rated recessed lights in ceiling with IC-rated LED lights?

texts:
About 10 years ago I had six recessed halogen lights installed in a second story room with an attic above. This is the product they installed:

I would like to replace each of these these with an IC rated fixture housing an LED light, such as this from the Feit website LED Retrofit Kits. My reason for doing this is to have better heat insulation in the ceiling above the lights. So my questions are

Can I remove the current HALO fixture from within the room without
going up into the attic?
What do I need to put in to replace it? Some kind of IC rated
fixture I suppose but what?
What else should I be aware of in attempting this project? I am
familiar with simple electrical work but don't want to get up into
the attic!

Thanks!


texts: What are the key differences between a step drill bit and a knockout punch?

texts:
Both a step drill bit and a knockout punch seem to be very similar, in that they both make holes in a metal box.

The step drill seems to have an advantage, since it can make several size holes using a single bit.

What are the major differences between the two?


texts: How can I protect my (engineered) hardwood floor from scratching?

texts:
I have engineered hardwood that scratches easily (be it from furniture being slid on it, a kid playing with hard toys on it, or simply from regular wear and tear). We currently mitigate the scratching by coloring the wood with some Old English. However, we would like to treat the floor with something to keep it from scratching so easily going forward.

Unlike, this question our wood is relatively new, is not brittle and dull, and definitely does not splinter. I am also not looking for spot treatment, I am open to something that I do to the entire floor.

I read of a few possibilities, that I'll put here for discussion.

Would oil or water based polyurethane work?

Would applying non-slip wax do the trick?

What about some type of varnish?

Note, the idea would be to avoid having to sand down and refinish the floors, but if thats my only option, please say so. The wood layer is thick enough that it could be refinished if need be.


texts: Is it safe to mount a TV below a window?

texts:
I have a spot in my bedroom where I'd like to mount a tv.

There is a wall with two closets on each side with a 4' space between them. The space has a built in chest that swings open at the top, and then a window about 2 feet above the chest. There is an outlet between the window and the chest, so presumably there is at least one stud there.

I want to mount the tv so I can still use the chest, but I'm worried about the load on that little stud below the window. Anyone know if this would be safe?


texts: 2020 google nest thermistat and no C wire for floor boiler heat

texts:
I think I have read all and still an issue.  I purchased a 2020 google nest wifi thermistat for my floor boiler in the basement (it only has R, W, Y, C, G and OB). The existing only has two connections a W and R as just for heat. The new requires a C.   I tried a 24 volt transformer hooked up to the R and C wire, disconnected the current R wire, and W.  This configuration worked to run the thermistat but did not operate the boiler when above room temp.   I did try one leg of the transformer to C and keep the R and W.  This showed no power on the nest.  I did see someone have the red and transformer wire both in R.  I am concerned this may not be best for the Navien boiler. Any advise would be appreciated.
Best regards,
GE


texts: I recently had my ductwork replaced and since my home doesn’t have an attic, the ceilings had to be opened up. However when they closed the drywall back up and painted, it started to become very lumpy / droopy. What are my options for fixing this?


texts: Do clothes dryers have heat insulation that could be mistaken as lint?

texts:
My friend's dryer leaves partially wet clothes. I plan to clean it and remove any lint.

My question is - Do dryers have heat insulation that looks like lint and should not be removed?

Here are few pictures:

While this dryer looks different than mine, I think what is in the doors is actually lint and not heat insulation (to reduce heat loss via doors)?

And the thing in the back probably is lint as well that should be cleaned:

Update #1 (the other side of drum that shows close up of picture #3):


texts: When I switch on my gas burner it comes on for a few minutes then the pilot light will go out. After a few minutes the pilot light comes back on and it keeps repeating this. The radiators are getting warm but nowhere near as hot as the should be.


texts:
I have pulled up carpet in a home I recently purchased, finding white oak 2" wide hardwood.  In the dining room, the sub floor and subsequently the hardwood waves over the floor joists.  Between the joists, the subfloor sinks 0.25 in. In my opinion the 0.25 in is noticeable.  The subfloor is not 4x8 tongue and groove ply, it is plank sub-floor. How would I go about making this level? I have used self leveling cement in the past on a slab, but considering this is plank sub-floor, I cannot use this method.

The floor joists are 2x10 16" on center.

Thanks.


texts: Hold several 2x4s together for tabletop?

texts:
I was thinking of making a very rudimentary TV stand with several treated 2x4s I have here. The tabletop would look like this.

What can I do to hold all these 2x4s together so that they're sturdy?

I also have several 2x6s, and the tabletop would be three 2x6 together.


texts: How to cut aluminium chequer plate (with a jigsaw)?

texts:
I have a nice sheet aly I bought for my project. It is 2.5~mm chequer plate that needs to be cut into 7 pieces (straight across the sheet, no curves needed), and I tried to cut it with a metal blade in a jigsaw - I only got ¾ of the way through cutting the first piece (2nd photo)

The problem is the blade became blunted, either due to aluminium wearing it out, or the aluminium melting and blocking it. This probably due to the speed on the jigsaw being set too high, so would it be possible to cut the aluminium using a jigsaw, and if so what would be the best way to go about it? I know about cutting wood and plastic with a  jigsaw, I am not experienced at all with cutting metal.

One thought I had would be to try getting some new blades (e.g. 1 2). However I am not sure what would be best specification of blade to look for. The jigsaw is a Makita 4350FCT.


texts: Weil McLain pcg-4 series 5...old thermostat was a Honeywell digital with batteries..I have 4 wires but only 2 were used red - R & green - W. It's a 2 zone hydronic system. There is a multi tap transformer S84-19 and it shows a c terminal so I tapped off that terminal and when I did setup with the nest app & it detected R & W but not the c wire.  This furnace is heat only and no circuit board.


texts: Fire proofing walls with Aluminum Foil Tape

texts:
I am currently trying to fire proof my reptile room which consists of racks that are ran with heat cable.  I'm worried that a rodent may chew through the heat cable and cause a fire.

I'm looking to add 2-layers of 5/8" Type-X fire-rated drywall and in addition use Scotch 3M 3326 Aluminum Foil Tape which has a temperature range of -20 to ~ 250°F.

Is there anything I'm missing that might make it a terribly bad idea to run Aluminum Foil tape up and down the walls all around?

Thanks!


texts: Are these foundation issues significant?

texts:
My wife and I are in the process of purchasing our first home.  It is 8 years old. We have found one that we like, but I am a little hesitant about going through for two reasons.

The foundation seems to have risen up or sank a little in the living room area of the house.  This is noticed because the tile is slightly uneven along the grout line.
There is a slight crack in the sheetrock above the sliding glass door in the same room.

We had the house inspected and they gave it the ok and said it was a result of settling and clay in the soil  Still a little worried we had the house inspected by an engineer who gave us a a report that said there was no structural concerns or issues.

Here are excerpts from the engineer's report:

  2.1 Floors (Structural)
  The Engineer performed a thorough investigation of the foundation and the floor structure.
  While the finished floor surface was not completely level and the floor displayed evidence of some movement [the floor was raised and sloped away from the area at which the floor was
  slightly raised], the structural system which created the floor and the foundation systems was intact and fully functional on the day of the investigation. As mentioned an area of the
  finished floor system displayed a slight raise which made the floor slightly uneven; however
  the raise was not significant and did not create any type of structural defect. In the event the future occupants of the home would like a floor free of the slight raise which existed on the day of the investigation the floor structure could be restored to be free of this slight raised area. Again it is important to note the area at which the floor structure was raised exhibited only a slight raise and the raised floor did not create any structural defect [other than the esthetic nature of the slight raise in the floor there was nothing wrong with the structural system of the foundation or the floor]. Any correction would only be because the future occupants of the home desired a completely level floor structure.
  2.4 Ceilings (Structural)
  The Engineer performed a thorough investigation of the attic area and the structural members
  which make up the ceiling structural system. While the gypsum board on the ceiling structure
  showed evidence of movement at one time [the sheetrock was cracked at an area other than
  the joint at which the two sheets of gypsum board met], the structural system which created
  the ceiling and roof structures was intact and fully functional without any defects on the day of the investigation. As mentioned an area of the finished drywall system displayed a crack in the ceiling however the crack was not significant and was not a result of any structural defect. In the event the future occupants of the home would like a ceiling free of cracks this area of the ceiling could be restored to be free of this small crack. Again it is important to note this small crackin the finished drywall system should not be a cause for concern [other than the esthetic nature of the crack there was nothing wrong with the structural system of the ceiling].

The house we are looking at is in Yuma, Arizona, in the Barkley Ranch neighborhood.  We are concerned that their could have been structural problems and may turn out to be serious or costly in the future.

I guess my questions is would any of you have any hesitancy in buying the house even after the engineers report?


texts: Corner sink installation in corner lazy susan cabinets

texts:
I need some opinions on how best to proceed with a corner sink installation. Our kitchen is a G shape, so we have two corner base cabinets. (Well, have one, will pick up another one tomorrow).

We are doing this on a very tight budget, so we purchased all our cabinets secondhand. The current corner cabinet we have has a lazy susan built in, but has square walls, as below:

The other one we may pick up tonight is the sort that has the cylindrical wall on the inside, like this:

So, two questions:

(1) Which base cabinet should I attempt to install the sink in? The first one with square walls is already installed in the corner that won't have the sink. The countertops are not yet attached, however, so I would need to unscrew it from the wall and the cabinets it's next to in order to use it as our sink base. Just would have to pop the cylindrical one in that space and re-level. The cylindrical one might be a bit more difficult to cut.

(2) Both have solid tops, so we'd have to cut the sink template in both the cabinet top and the countertop. How does one do this? Obviously I want to make sure that the cutouts line up, although at the very least the hole in the countertop has to be a better fit to the sink and the bottom one can have a bit bigger of an opening.


texts: How do I differentiate between ground and neutral in black-white-red wiring?

texts:
I'm hooking up a dishwasher and failed to check wiring before I removed the old one.

Black - Red = 120v
Black - White = 120v
Red - White = 0v.

So obviously Red and white are Neutral and Ground.
How can I tell?  If the Red were Green or Bare, I wouldn't worry, but seeing as the original installer used the wrong wire, I need to question everything.

Is there a simple way of telling the two apart? Keep in mind that I'm in Canada, where the code does not allow grounding to Neutral.

-- Resolved.  I ended up tracing back to the panel, Opening the panel and seeing that Red went into the rat's nest of bare copper.  So, IN THIS CASE ONLY, Red was ground.

However, this leads us to the greater problem of Contractors using non-standard parts because they happen to be laying around.  If I couldn't get to the panel, how could I determine the difference.  I was think that a continuity check between a known ground and (test)neutral should be open, and known ground to test ground should be closed.  Is that a correct assumption?


texts: How worried should I be about unlevel floors/vibrations?

texts:
we bought a house about 6 months ago. The house is 50 years old this year. Passed main and termite inspections with only minor issues (many of which we've already addressed), and also had an inspection from the insurance company.

I noticed when we moved in that our furniture in a few rooms on the second level is not level. I checked the floor with our bubble level to see what was going on. In our master bedroom the floor slopes a little (about 1/8 inch per foot) towards the center of the house for two to three feet and then levels off. The same is true of another bedroom on the other side of the house. The upstairs is mostly level except for these spots. The foundation seems very sturdy with no cracks from what we can tell, and the downstairs floors are level or very nearly so. The house is slab on grade.

Also in our guest bedroom I noticed that when I walk by a bookshelf (which is, admittedly, IKEA) everything on it wobbles. If I bounce in front of it the wobble is quite pronounced. Bouncing in the other rooms or bouncing in the same room near other pieces of furniture produces a tiny bit of shake (I have to bounce a lot harder to get much at all) but nothing like this one place. When you bounce you cannot hear anything significant downstairs (just sounds like footsteps).

We have not noticed any cracks except a few minor ones above baseboards and other painted wood joints (as in, they need some caulk) and near the whole house fan and sump pump hatch (which we're almost certain has to do with their installation since they are both recent). There are no cracks around doors or windows, everything shuts properly.

Any advice would be great. We are scared of big repairs so soon after buying the house.


texts: Please help me figure out who made this bathtub faucet

texts: I would like to replace my bathroom shower fixtures and I am having a hard time finding one that is compatible with the current mixing valve and screw placement. Does anyone know this brand?


texts: Looking for quick attach and release options for a table top attached to a metal frame

texts:
Below is what I have. There are small pre drilled holes but I can add more or make the existing one larger. What is not shown in the picture is the fact that the legs are foldable.
My plan is to build a table for which I should be able to quickly replace the top. The tops will be multipurpose: router table, a table with t-tracks and holes for bench dogs and a table for jigsaw like in the second picture

Update: here is a bottom view of the frame and the top attached


texts:
kenmore microwave not heating.  went through all identified components and tests of same - diode, relay, capacitor, transformers, magnetron, switches, fuses, sensors/thermostats.

diode - 9v battery check with DMM, checks okay not open or shorted.
capacitor - resister check okay, uF checks 1.03 for 1.05uF rated. no defect - but curious no spark or pop when attempt to discharge after each test.
Transformer- resisitance checks okay on primary, secondary, and to ground.
magnetron - terminals and to ground resistance checks okay, nose of antenna okay, visual no defects of burns.
relay - 120 v to transformer and checked on various power scales 1-10.


texts: I need to replace ALL the old galvanized pipe in a two story house with copper. PEX is not code in Chicago. Any tips on running to second story (especially shower) without completely destroying walls? Can I just disconnect the old galv. and leave it in or should I try to cut it out?


texts: Should a second layer of asphalt be placed over an older layer of asphalt?

texts:
I have an asphalt driveway.  It has its fair share of cracks, etc. However, most troublesome is that "ruts" have formed from the weight of cars driving on it.  This means there is a high spot in the middle that is taking a fair amount of abuse when I plow the driveway in the winter.

It has been suggested that I should put another layer of asphalt on top. If current asphalt and whatever is under it is not hard enough to stand up to weight of car traffic, doesn't really seem like another layer of asphalt is what I need, but if I knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be here...

Should I have another layer of asphalt put down on top?  If not, what should be done?


texts: Can I use lag screws, lag bolts to hang swing vertically from a wood beam?

texts:
I need to hang a swing (picture attached) from a large wood beam in my living room.  The beam is 1 foot high and 1/2 foot wide. (quite strong).

I am planning to use 2 metal faceplates . Each faceplate has a hook welded to it and has 3 holes.  The holes are 1/2 inch in diameter.

The swing seating area is a flat plank.

Need to support up to 1000 lbs total.

Q: Can I drill a lag screw / nut vertically to hang the swing ?  (picture)
Q: If so, what are the recommended lag screw dimensions:
   1/2 inch diameter x 6 inches long or
   1/2 inch diameter x 4 inches long ?

Q: alternatively, can I use a 1.2 inch diameter - sleeve anchor ?
   or is this only for concrete?

Photos attached:

thank you


texts: I need to run electric past the dishwasher to the end of the peninsula cabinet

texts:
We are replacing our kitchen cabinet layout and we are adding a peninsula. The peninsula is where our dishwasher will be with the plan of running plumbing and electric under the IKEA cabinets to the sink cabinet where there would be a dedicated outlet for the dishwasher. The toe kicks come off easily and will provide any needed access.

We know we need to add an outlet in at the end of the peninsula, but we are unsure of how electric will be able to get there. It is not an option to come up through the floor. We figure we could run conduit from the existing outlet behind the dishwasher, but we don't know if there is space behind a dishwasher to do this. We are having an electrician come in, but we need to figure this out before we finish planning the kitchen layout. Any thoughts?


texts:
I've got a dresser whose drawers get stuck and won't open. Nothing is blocking them, they just seem to get stuck on the runners. None of the runners seem loose or damaged, so I don't really know what's going on.

I found some sites that said to try and rub some wax on them, but this didn't work. I just used some paraffin wax, is there a better solution?

Should I try to sand them down?

I've attached some pictures of drawers and the runners.

EDIT:
None of the runners are loose, and the wax didn't work so I'll try sanding them this weekend and posting an update. Since none are loose, can I assume that they are still square?


texts:
I am looking at a house with a reverse sloped driveway. Are there always going to be a lot of maintenance issues with keeping drains cleared, making sure that the drain is not frozen in the winter to prevent flooding, etc.? If I were to buy the house with the slope, are there any best practices to minimize maintenance and the risk of flooding, whilst keeping the sloped driveway?

Do homeowners ever just fill in the reverse slope and get rid of the underground garage essentially? Is it a fairly easy DIY job? I would be open to doing that, just not sure if there are any structural issues that might introduce by filling with dirt and just basically covering the garage.

Edit: Here's a picture of the sloped driveway:

Thanks


texts: Can a connection be established from copper wire to stainless steel bus for power connection?

texts:
I have this question.

A copper cable to be connected(either crimped/ soldered/ pressure/screw fitted) to stainless steel bus bar and the bus bar is to be connected to the power supply of 12 V DC.

Now I have the following queries:

Can a connection be possible from copper wire to Stainless steel bus bar ? If yes, what are the factors need to be considered ? Can copper wire be connected to copper coated stainless steel bus bar ?
What type of connection between copper wire and steel is feasible( crimping,clamping , screw etc).
In my case, coating of stainless steel with any metal will make the connection feasible? if possible also the electric transfer efficiency of the connection in various cases?

Thanks in advance...


texts: Where to install a carbon monoxide detector when the boiler is in a closet?

texts:
I have a boiler in my kitchen closet. The installation instructions for my carbon monoxide detector say the detector should be:

  at a horizontal distance of between 1m and 3m from the potential source

So it should be outside the closet.

  on the same side of the partition as the potential source

So it should be inside the closet, assuming the closet door counts as a partition.

What should I do?


texts: Venting Range Hood into Attic Space, Temporarily

texts:
My ductless recirculating range hood broke, and I have to install the replacement.  I love to cook, so I'm installing a roof vent for a ducted hood.
The range hood I bought has good filtering for grease and carbon filters.

It's winter in MN, and I can't easily work on the roof for a couple of months. Here's my question:

Is it ok for me to vent this into the attic space with minimal use for a couple of months?  I understand there are downsides of venting a range hood into the attic, but I need to know if it's fine for a short time.


texts: Can I modify the vent from my high efficiency furnace to prevent possible damage to the exterior of my home?

texts:
is my high efficiency furnace vent installed properly? I'm based in Toronto, Canada. In some recent cold winter weather, the exhaust is causing a lot of ice buildup on the surrounding brick. To my limited knowledge, lots of freeze / thaw cycles for brick is a bad thing, which can cause brick to deteriorate rapidly. So is this an issue? If so, is it worth correcting and are there any easy DIY solutions that you would recommend?

Could I change the venting to just be one vent, instead of two (right now the exhaust vents both up and down)? And maybe aim the exhaust a bit further from the brick?


texts: Three Mosquito Lures, Still Tons of Mosquitoes

texts:
I have three mosquito lure traps on my property in Arizona. Two Stinger 21,000 sq. ft. lures that lure via Octenol and UV light, kill via electricity. And one Dynatrap 1-acre DT2000XL that lures via UV light, kills via entrapment.

They're all placed at least 25 feet from the home on different sides. I've got a well maintained pool but no standing water anywhere. The mosquitoes are overwhelming in the evening.

Wondering what else I can do. Perhaps a propane-burning machine like the  Mosquito Magnet? Are these lures non-effective?


texts: Why is smoke entering my home through the fireplace?

texts:
I recently moved to a new home with a wood burning fireplace.  I've never owned one of these before and I want to become familiar with it.

With a fire extinguisher and a pot of water ready, I placed some kindling and a dry log (that came with the house) in the fireplace, along with some clippings from a shrub and some clippings from a paper shredder.  Then, I lit the fire and closed the door.

Within a few minutes, a cloud of noxious smoke wafted into the room.  Not knowing what could be wrong, I drowned the fire.  After this, I stepped outside and observed that there was a little bit of smoke rising from the chimney.

As someone who has never owned a fireplace before, what do I need to know to operate my fireplace safely and avoid smoke coming in my home?


texts: Where would I connect the C wire in my HVAC system?

texts: I'm upgrading the thermostat with a Eco Bee WIFI one. Where do I connect the C cable? (Rheem 15 to 20 years old.)


texts:
My neighbor asked me to help him run power from his breaker panel to his shed out back adding two outlets and two lights. I added a 20 amp breaker and pulled #10 wire from the shed to the house in 3/4 conduit and in a junction box about ten feet inside the attic I transitioned from thhn #10 to NM-B cable and added the 20 amp service breaker.

Everything worked fine but my concern is should there be more to the transition than a box and some wire nuts?


texts: Differences Between a Cast Iron or Steel Base for a Belt Sander?

texts: Are there any significant differences between a cast iron base or a steel base for a 4" x 36" belt sander? I know that cast iron tends to be stronger but crack more instead of flexing like how steel does. I also know from some forging videos that cast iron doesn't conduct vibrations as well, which is why cast anvils tend to be worse for forging than a forged anvil. Are there any other differences? Does the better vibration control account for much when operating a belt sander for say, a small wood shop?


texts: How are thermal (fire) barriers installed over foam insulation in a crawlspace?

texts:
I will soon be sealing my crawlspace with plastic sheeting across the floor and up the concrete walls. I plan on then adding rigid foam insulation.

My reading of the Residential Code is that I will need to install a thermal barrier over the rigid foam board to add protection against ignition. The layers of material are:

earth---concrete---plastic sheeting---foam board---thermal barrier---crawlspace air

Typically, a thermal barrier is provided by 1/2" gypsum board. My issue is that this is a crawlspace. I am not planning on installing studs to support wall board.

Do I need to install the barrier in a crawlspace?
What would I use as a barrier since I don't have studs to hange wall board on?
Is there an alternative that I am missing?

Related questions:

Do basement walls with metal framing and foam insulation require fireblocking and draftstopping?
How can I install r-max insulation on the interior side of a cinderblock wall?
Should I encapsulate my crawl space?


texts:
I had someone connect some romex for some wall lights for me. I ran the wire, and just had him do the connections (they're inside junction boxes).  This from a partially finished space into a finished space. As the run starts it is in holes drilled through exposed 2x4 wall (the other side has drywall), it leaves the wall and goes out and over the metal support beam and into a finished drywall ceiling. It's stapled on the vertical part. On this part I use a flexible metal raceway (secured at both ends) to go over the beam (the builder did the exact same thing).  After this, I ran the wire between the floor joists. I laid it on top of the ceiling that's finished with drywall.

I sold my house... it will be inspected...like.. in a couple days... do I need to tear out portions of the ceiling and staple this wire to the joists?  Do I need to take it all out and have it pass, then have someone else come in and redo it?  Will he get on a ladder and look at how it's run?  Does it matter?  Is it within code?  Help me get this thing right so I can make sure our home closes.  Thank you! (the wiring is part of a home theater that is being sold with the house.. it's a major player as to why our house is selling.. need to make sure there's not a surprise).  Thanks

Btw, saw someone say on this site that it was ok to let it lay up there, and ran with it. Wish I wouldn't have done that now, just so that I wasn't worrying right now.

Edit from OP:
Let me go further... Based on my limited knowledge, I understand that home inspectors (those generally hired by the buyer) are not "code experts".  That said, my township requires an occupancy permit and inspection (ie, the city's building inspector comes out, I'm sure you know that :P). So, this guy might be a little more stringent when he finds work done that wasn't permitted. I'm not even sure it has to be permitted, but maybe it does?  I'll be calling this week to find out and apply for retroactive if so.  So, if it is required, it will be required to be up to code... Will the city's inspector pass it done this way?  Here's a picture to illustrate. There are three of these coming from one closed junction box ran off an existing outlet ran parallel with the joists.


texts: How can I split a shower head with this fitting?

texts:
I want to add a second shower head that splits off at the fitting for the current shower head (because my ceiling is low so I have to sit, and I want a shower head that sprays my lower body at the same time).

I can't do the easy thing, which would be to split it at the base and run two hoses from there, because the hose has to go through that hole (see photos).

How can I attach a second flexible-hose shower head?


texts: How can I add a bathroom GFCI protected outlet?

texts:
I have a GFCI outlet in my bathroom (next to a vanity), and want to install a bidet, by the toilet, which will need an outlet. I was advised at the Home Improvement store that since its a bathroom outlet, it needs "a GFCI at the beginning of the run".
Do I need to install a second GFCI in my bathroom? The only reason for the new outlet would be to power the bidet. The existing GFCI is diagonally across (hence inconvenient) so I could use a Legrand Wiremold
My original plan  was to extend a line from a regular outlet on the bedroom wall, right behind the bathroom, now I realize it was probably unsafe given the steam and moisture in the bathroom.


texts: Above-the-counter oven vs. microwave - do these exist?

texts: I know what an over-the-range microwave is but for this kitchenette I'd like an over the countertop oven-only with the same clearance.  Do such configurations exist?  What are the code implications and typical rules.  I have searched and my searches always lead toward microwaves.  Thanks.


texts:
I'm replacing the main lights throughout the house and was removing a wire from the junction box the light came with.

The wire was 100% jammed in and this metal casing came off. See pictured below)

Can I place the barewire into the junction box or will I have to struggle getting the casing off the old light wiring and put onto new light?


texts: Should Caulk be used around vinyl windows

texts:
I purchased a new home last year and all the windows installed are vinyl. My previous home built in 1999 had wooden windows. My question is are all the exterior windows needing to be caulked? I know with wooden windows that's a given. I had a lot of trouble with water damage on my old home and I don't really want to experience that again. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


texts: convector hot water radiator in far bedroom doesnt work on second floor

texts:
far bedroom radiator isnt warm while other rooms convector radiator works fine. cant find any valves in basement or near radiator. any assistance would be greatly appreciated.all pipes leading and exiting are cold.
all other radiators work properly. i dont see any valves near it and when i bled it, no air or water was in it


texts: Boiler only runs for 4 minutes then shuts off

texts:
I have a Slant/Fin boiler that's attached to a old White and Rodgers thermostat, typically the boiler only runs for about 4 minutes before it shuts off.

This small period isn't really heating up our 3rd floor, the first and second floors are well heated.

I think I have the anticipator set to the highest setting (see attached).

What can I do to get the top floor warm?


texts:
I have a pre-1990 Mayline Ranger Drafting Table, with a mystery finish, under the rubber mat. It's soft and sort of sticky in places. It appears thicker in some spots too. Some of it comes off easily with a razor blade, but in other places, I'm hard pressed to remove it, without gouging the top.

I started with adhesive removers, with limited success. CitruStrip AR seemed to soften it up, if I left it on for a while, but it didn't get it all. Acetone, GooGone, etc. did nothing.

I haven't tried paint strippers yet; want to make sure it's not spray on glue first. I'm guessing some kind of poly, or maybe even shellac.

My other Ranger tables appeared to have the same finish as well, but I had removed the rubber tops on those many years ago, and the finish underneath, looked like an evenly distributed light matte urethane. Care instructions offer little beyond the typical, "damp warm cloth", boiler plate spiel...

No chemicals were used on the section in the picture/video. I plan to cover it with a large anti-static mat once it's cleaned up.

This top was stored in an uninsulated/unventilated Midwestern garage, for the last 4 to 5 years, with the original rubber mat still in place. I'm wondering if that could have made the finish soften up, and could also help identify the type of finish.

YouTube Video of Scraping Finish "I gouged the top a bit".


texts:
Greetings from Australia

I'm in the process of putting Z-wave nano dimmers behind my 240v light switches and up to wiring an interesting 3-way switch config backing 3x LED drivers.

This is what I found when I popped the plates off...

Switches:

Can anyone pick out how this has actually been wired and why they would go about doing it this way?

I'm going to check this out further tomorrow but thought I'd drop it in here to get some opinions.

Looks like active is at COM of Switch #1 and those T1/T2 are definitely the travelers

I now have enough info to wire my Z-wave Nano switch. Thanks to everyone for their input!


texts: How to cut concrete block with a circular saw

texts:
I have some concrete blocks that are 4 inches by 6 inches.  I need to cut them in half at a 45 degree angle.  Can I do this with a circular saw and a masonry blade ?  I would also make a jig to cut the 45s.  I only need to make 4 cuts.

I checked with a few rental places but it would be expensive to rent a big saw. I live far enough from any rental places that it would be a full day rental. Also it would seem difficult to make a decent 45 degree cut with a large demo saw.

My thought is to make a jig to hold the blocks and make the cut and use a circular saw with some type of masonry diamond blade. A 7" blade looks to be in the 20-30 dollar range.

Would this work ?


texts: Can I make an existing dog door bigger for our new larger dog?

texts: We have an existing dog door that we had installed in the wall for our beagle. We have since acquired a larger dog and she has out grown the door. I'm worried about injuries, so any advice will be much appreciated. Can we make the existing door bigger?


texts: How to wire a switch-controlled GCFI but retain downstream protection even with switch off

texts:
I'm wiring an outbuilding and would like to put GFcI first for downstream protection. Only catch is that the first outlet (the one I want to be a GFCI) needs to be controlled by a switch because its in the ceiling for a bank of LED lights to plug into.  Here's the run I'm trying to do:

SOURCE........ceiling GFCI (a bank of LED lights plugs into this).......wall switch(that controls that GFCI).....regular wall outlet.....other downline outlets, etc.

Is it possible to wire this run such that the regular outlet (downstream) isn't controlled by the switch but remains GFCI protected (even with the switch off, preferably)?  I'd love to see a diagram for this if possible.

Thanks!


texts: Can I mix galvanized and black (iron) pipe when plumbing for new gas service?

texts:
I'm getting new gas service (Nat. Gas, M425, 1-1/4") installed. Big Box Store doesn't sell 1-1/4" black pipe (only 1"), but they do sell 1-1/4" galvanized. Can I run galvanized for mainline (from exterior protruding nipple for meter connection, then run up and through the attic) and branch off using smaller 1" black iron pipe, manifolds, and fittings or CSST and fittings? I've heard common folklore regarding galvanized, but I'm looking for cited code violations.
I've tried to thoroughly review UPC and IRC codes, but everything seems to point to no issues using black iron, galvanized, or CSST [1], but I couldn't find anything mentioning a mix of them.
What I know so far from my research:

Galvanized is no longer a risk when used with NG because modern zinc coating processes no longer cause flaking and NG composition is no longer corrosive. It can be used outside or where moisture is present.
Black (iron) pipe can't be used outside or where moisture is present.
CSST must be properly bonded and installed by a certified person.
There is no galvanic corrosion/reaction between galvanized and black pipe because they're both made of "soft steel", galvanized is simply coated with zinc.

Code should be relevant to my locale: Snohomish County, Washington State, USA.
[1] IRC G2414.42(403.4.2), ASTM A 43/A 53M: https://up.codes/viewer/washington/irc-2015/chapter/24/fuel-gas#G2414.4.2

This specification covers seamless and welded black and hot-dipped galvanized steel pipe in NPS 1/8 to NPS 26


texts: Wiring a Generator to Main Breaker Panel

texts:
I'm attempting to wire a generator to my main panel.  I was expecting a separate grounding point and neutral in my panel.  It appears as though there isn't separate connections for each.  It looks as though both the grounds and the neutrals are connected to the same terminal.  I have read that this is acceptable in the main panel.  I just wanted clarification before going further.  Should both the white and bare wire be connected to the same vertical terminal while the remaining wires connect to the double pole?

Note - the generator is being connected in the bottom left position...  See picture for details. I will be adding an interlock to the panel to prevent the main from being on at the same time as the generator. Its a predator 8750. The main is 200.


texts: How to install corner bead on an uneven corner

texts: How do I install this corner bead without it buckling when I screw it down. Do I just fill the recessed spot with mud first? If it matters it's the ceiling in my shower.


texts:
I have a chest of small chest of drawers held together by metal cam lock & dowel pegs. The cam lock & dowel regularly come loose. I am looking for suggestions for alternatives?

the cam lock diameters are 12mm and they are 10mm deep
the dowels are 30 mm long and 5mm diameter

One idea is to use wooden dowels with glue but I like the idea of being able to dismantle so am looking for suggestions for alternatives.


texts: Bathtub starts draining normally but then slows down

texts:
I have a bathtub in an upstairs master bathroom. I recently noticed (couple weeks ago) that when I go to drain the tub it starts draining like normal but then after about 5 seconds it slows down dramatically. While it's draining slowly there will be an occasional sound like a big gulp of air was taken. What could cause this and how could I try fixing it?

The plumbing is about 20 years old, made from PVC. It's connected to a septic. There are two sinks nearby and a shower as well. I'm not positive if the shower shares the same drain pipes but I think they do. The only other issue I've had is that recently my kitchen island sink was burping when the dishwasher was draining. It has since stopped doing that though.

I should also note that directly beneath the tub is the laundry room.


texts:
I was awoken early this morning by my sump water level alarm going off.   After some investigation, I believe that my sump discharge has frozen due to recent low temperatures.
I've verified that the pump is still functioning (Disconnecting the pump discharge in the house shows that it is moving water at high pressure.   When connecting the pump discharge to the pipe that leads out of the house, water stops flowing.
My sump discharge is run under the basement foundation, then underground for about 300-400 feet, then pops out of a small mound on the side of a slope.  When investigating the outlet this morning, I found it completely covered with snow, and no signs of water leaving the pipe.
I've tried running a snake from outside (Into the house, but it hits something hard (Assuming ice) about 1 - 2 feet in).
Specific Questions

What is the typical way that a sump discharge is setup in freezing climates?
What can I do in the short term (While ground is frozen) to fix this issue.  (I currently have it running into my septic system, which I assume will mess that up in short order).
What is the correct long term fix for this issue?

Additional details if required

Home was built in the last two years, and up until this point I would have said that I never have water in the sump.
There are two pipes leaving the mound, the smaller of the two is the sump outlet, the larger is what I believe to be connected to the sump vent (Air vent out of the top of the sump pit) (But I have not verified this).
Running electrical to this location (For heat tape or something similar) would be difficult (Especially with the frozen ground), due to the long distance from the house.


texts: Is this an acceptable way to fix garage roof condensation?

texts:
I'm in the UK.

My garage has a corrugated metal roof with no insulation.  In the winter, when it rains the underside of the roof drips.  Not massively, but just enough to be annoying.

The roof appears to be in good condition and not old, so suspect this is condensation.  Although I can't rule out a small leak.

As I do not have strong DIY skills I have been looking for a solution which is within my means.  I have settled on staple-gunning sheets of aluminium bubble insulation membrane into the beams, spanning the distance between two beams, as close as possible to the underside of the roof.

Is this a reasonable solution or will it cause more problems?
I'm concerned that covering the whole roof tightly will trap damp above the bubble-wrap, causing mould on the beams.
Or if I leave gaps for air to circulate above the insulation then that defeats the point.


texts:
We currently have the typical floor tiles in our bedroom and bathroom. I dont know if they are ceramic or porcelain. The problem is the bathroom floor can get very slippery when wet (and when the bath mats are not in the bathroom (washed/dryed)). Are there any ways I could make the tiles in our bathroom non slippery ?
Installing grab rails is an option am considering at the moment. But any other ideas ?


texts: Does the smell of paint linger or penetrate other materials?

texts:
My girlfriend is away for the weekend, I and I want to suprise her by doing some painting and some shelfmaking.

The wall I want to paint is a in a rather small room, with a lot of old screw holes that I'm going to fix and paint over (the whole wall) before mounting the shelf.

The problem is that the room is filled with a lot of cloth and stuff, and the room does not have direct ventilation to fresh air (no window).

Will the smell of paint stick to the clothes?


texts: Refrigerator cools once but then doesn't start up again

texts: We have a Whirlpool Side by Side refrigerator (GS6SHAXML00) that is about 15 years old and was working fine before a long-distance move. When we got to the new house and plugged it in, it seemed to work fine -- it came on, both the refrigerator and freezer got to the appropriate temperature, and it cycled off. The problem is that it never came back on again. If we unplug it and plug it back in, it goes through the same cycle. It would be usable if we wanted to unplug it after every time it shuts off... (not). Can anyone tell me if there might be an easy fix for this or should we just get a new one (after the move, not a lot in the budget for that)? Thank you in advance for any help!