texts:
I'm having a new above ground pool installed, and the package I purchased comes with a 1.5 HP pump.  When I was originally talking to them, they said most people just run an extension cord from their garage or outdoor outlet.  Because I want this to look a little cleaner, I was going to trench this, and bring a new receptacle to the pump.  I have a 14/2 wire from my panel to my garage that I brought in when I did a reno long ago, but haven't hooked up yet.  My original plan was to hook up that wire, and extend it out to the pump, and use a GFI receptacle.

Here's my problem.  The pump instructions say it should be hooked up to a 20A breaker, which I obviously can't do with what I currently have.

If "everyone" is just using an extension cord off an existing receptacle, and I am really going to have an issue with my setup, where essentially that pump (and salt generator) are going to be on a dedicated 15A circuit?  It's only a 15 foot round pool, so I don't expect that the pump will be running for very long during the day.  Or if I use 12/2 from the 14/2 connection point, is there something I can do at that junction?

Thoughts?

Thank you for your help.

Edit - I've added a picture of the label off of the pump, as well as a picture of the wire

Edit #2 - In case anyone is wondering or curious, I've installed the pump, and the electrician measured the draw.  The 1.5HP pump is drawing 17 Amps on initial start up for about 2 seconds (literally), and then drops to 12 Amps and hums away.
Thank you to everyone for your help.


texts: What way does a rubber washer go in a toilet siphon flush?

texts:
I have been attempting to install a new siphon flush but it kept leaking.  In attempting to fix the leak, I have wrung the first one but have got a fresh one to try again.

The only thing I can think of is that either the silicon sealant is incorrect or the rubber washer is the wrong way around.

The sealant is tec7 (https://tec7.ie/product/tec7-sealant/) which should be ok which leaves the rubber washer.

It has a serrated edge and a flat edge.

Does anyone know which face of the washer should interface with the actual toilet cistern?


texts: Drilling a hole in a dry-wall backed by concrete or plaster?

texts:
I am trying to mount an LG 55UK6300 tv. I bought the Insignia 47" - 80" Fixed TV Wall Mount, and it comes with 2.75" lag bolts.
I tried drilling the holes as instructed but then my drill won't go any further than 1 to 1.5" into the wall before hitting a hard substance that looks like plaster on top of metal or concrete. I went out and bought a wall stud and it basically detected the entire wall as metal. so I figured I calibrated it wrong which was correct.
So I put the stud next to a wall socket where I knew there'd be no stud or anything. Then I drag it and it would beep where it said studs were,  but drilling there resulted in the same problem. Max depth is 1.0" - 1.5".
So I drilled a larger hole and then took pictures and the results are:

How can I mount the TV in such a wall?
I tried buying Butterfly/Toggle screws but they're too large to insert and anything smaller can't hold the 30lbs or ~14kg that is the TV. Drilling in different spots are the exact same.
(Full set of pictures at https://imgur.com/a/qsZ1PkT )


texts: How to keep an attic over the garage cool?

texts:
The space over my garage is dominated by a large dormer, which I use as my office.  On either side of this dormer, the remainder of the over-garage area is attic space.  We have access panels into these attic spaces.

I'm thinking of using that space as a networking closet, as it's easy for me to get cables to the basement and up into the main attic from there, which gives me the ability to drop cables down to all of the other bedrooms.

My concern is temperature.  This is the front of the house, and the slope of the the roof of this space goes all the way up to the attic (which does have a ridge vent), but it's broken by an interior wall, kind of like this:

Here's a picture of the front of the house, for reference:

I haven't measured temperature in there on a hot summer day, but as it's uninsulated and effectively not vented I assume it gets fairly toasty in there.

Is there any way to keep it cool(ish?)  I'd love to keep it under 85F, but I'd settle for keeping it with 5 degrees F of the external temperature.


texts: Casa Endeavor Ceiling Fan: Slight hum, and major wobble

texts:
New Fan.

I have installed at least 8 ceiling fans in the past.

Juan, the CSR of the seller  who I spoke with last week suggested several balancing options, nothing seems to be working.

Never had a significant issue such as these two with a fan:

1) A definitive hum in low speed;  is this normal for the Casa Endeavor (it is in the bedroom and it is quite annoying, at night)?

2)  The fan just will not seem to balance. I have installed several fans and balanced with no serious issues afterward.

So far, with me checking all the screws, and trying about 100 different balancing combinations.  Still wobbling on high speed, and low speed.

I am exhausted.

Though, after researching and reading, I  discovered one blade (out of 5 blades) is off by 1/4 inch meaning all other blades are 13" off the ceiling, and one blade is 12.75 inches off the ceiling.

Could 1/4 inch make the difference with balancing?

Thoughts?


texts: Wiring a new GFCI outlet and switch in same box

texts: We bought an old house to renovate and came across this situation in a bathroom and it is definitely not up to code. There is a regular outlet and a switch to lights above the mirror near the sink. There are also a couple terminals with two wires. So I want to wire this correctly using a GFCI outlet. I will have to test it to be sure, but I believe the line in is 14/2 wire to the outlet first and 14/3 wire connecting switch to lights and also connected to outlet. I am not there to see how it is exactly connected, but regardless, I want to connect it correctly. Can someone please help?? Also there is no ground with the 14/2 and it is a plastic box.


texts: How to fix/improve a shared return between floors

texts: We have an older 2 level home where the lower level is a walkout basement.  Stairs connect the two levels, each is about 900 sq/ft.  We have a Carrier furnace plus a heat pump for HVAC.  This system heats/cools our entire house... sort of.  It blows “cold heat” in the winter, never quite warming if it’s actually cold outside, and coolish air in the summer, never quite cooling if it’s actually hot outside.  Maybe this is normal but it seems ridiculous.  That aside, we’ve got a single return on each floor, in the middle of the house.  AND those returns are stacked... the main level return is in the floor directly on top of the lower level return in the ceiling.  Whether this is good design or bad, it also has the strange effect of zero sound insulation in our home.  There’s basically a hole going straight thru between floors.  My questions is: how can the return issue be fixed/changed to eliminate the sound issue and improve hvac performance?  Thank you!


texts: Install Fluorescent Tube Light, Correct way to Rotate?

texts:
When I replace a Fluorescent/LED Tube Light,
(a) When removing the tube light, Which way should I turn, toward me or away from me?
(b) And when Reinstalling, which way should I turn tube light, away or towards me? Or does it matter?
All these websites are giving different directions. Just want to be sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0CAnQgEPZw
https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-Fluorescent-Lighting


texts: Q: What is the safest way to clean soiled concrete for tiling in a small kitchen?

texts:
I'm planning on tiling my kitchen floor which is bare concrete. However, I did a water test on the concrete and it's soiled to the point that water beads up on the surface. The floor most likely needs to be treated to ensure a proper bond with the tile, but I cannot seem to find any information on treating concrete indoors, particularly in a small kitchen. My concern is using any powerful acids indoors due to the fumes, pets in the home, and having large amounts of water on the floor to wash it off. I have read about grinding concrete but that would generate a lot of fine dust which I don't want to get into other parts of the house.

What is the safest way to get the concrete clean enough for tiling? For reference I do have large doors leading outside from the kitchen which helps for any ventilation needs.


texts: I have an old carrier Weathermaker DX 58DXA060-100GG, and the blower motor has no oilers. I assume it was a replacement for the original. My question is, because I woke up to it humming and then it started but never shut off until the hi-limit switch was reset, can I put in a different motor? This is a 4 speed motor that is in it. However only 2 speeds are actually hooked up. Could a 2 or 3 speed be used instead? Also, it is a 1/3hp fla5.8 psc, can I use a 1/3hp fla6.1 or fla6.2, or even a 1/2hp fla6.1 or fla6.2? I don't want to spend the $250 for the exact replacement because I would be better off buying a new furnace. This furnace is about 25 years old from my diagnoses and investigation. I have replaced the spark control, the pilot and the inducer motor in the last 3 years. But if I keep replacing parts like this then it might just warranty a complete replacement.  I have removed the motor and repacked the bearings with new grease, but it still has a slight moan on start up, but runs for now. I know it will quit again in the future.


texts:
Googling this issue I'm finding lots of conflicting answers and many horror stories about significant parts of the system needing replacement, so I'm trying here for, hopefully, a more considered response.

At the weekend I replaced a couple of sticky TRVs. To do this I drained the central heating system the same way I have done a dozen times in the past (to replace rads, replace TRVs, replace valves, fit filters etc).

I refilled the system as normal and bled the rads a couple of times starting with the lowest rads and working my way upstairs to the highest rad (a heated towel rail).

All seemed normal except that there seemed to be more air in the system than usual.

Over the last two nights I have bled the radiators again and found a lot of air in a couple of them again. Other than that the heating seems to be working as before.

However, when the heating switches off at the end of its time cycle (and possibly when the room stat kicks in - though I haven't confirmed this) water pours out of the header tank overflow pipe for a few minutes then stops.

This seems to happen every time the heating switches off.

System details:

Worcester Bosch 24 CBi (I think that's the correct model) boiler
Osso unvented water tank
Grundfos pump
TF1 magnetic particle filter
Radiator circuit is fed from one small tank in the loft
Cold water into hot water tank is fed from mains feed (via PRV) - not a big tank in the loft space.

The boiler is over ten years old BUT had the burner, heat exchanger, fan etc (everything except the case and control board, basically) replaced two year sago.

The Grundfos was replaced at the beginning of this year. (It was replaced needlessly by incompetent heating engineers who claimed the previous pump was not powerful enough as they had added an extra rad to the system. They were ignorant of the fact that two larger rads had been removed from the happily working system AND the fact that the 'fault' was that rads were not heating up because they had left the lockshields closed!!!)

Other than the pump change and new rad at the start of the year, nothing has changed.

The system has worked perfectly since then (after I discovered the closed lockshields and the two cross threaded TRVs left by the supposedly certified heating engineers).

When I changed the TRVs at the weekend, the system drained down as normal and re-filled as normal.

This overflowing from the header whenever the heating switches off is the only problem. Everything else is working fine.

What I have read and considered:

Boiler over-heating. Seems unlikely as the water temp at the taps is not abnormally hot - it does not seem hotter than normal.
Ball valve in header tank stuck. Seems unlikely as the overflow stops itself after a few minutes - and there is no sound of water pumping into the header tank when the overflow happens (I need to confirm this again, but when the overflow first happened I was in the room where the header tank is above and usually hear that filling).
Tank stat faulty. I know a tank stat is supposed to be fitted, but I don't think one is. Heating engineers have asked where the tank stat is before and not found one. Again this is something I need to check, but is there any way to further diagnose this as being the problem? Should I be checking the temperature of the water in the header tank / that is overflowing?

I've tried to supply as much background info as possible, but I understand that I need to investigate further. If you have any pointers as to what I should check, please let me know.


texts: Best solution for outdoor outlet with permanent connection?

texts:
I have a circular junction box on my deck (outside) where I can presumably attach an outlet, and it is connected to a switch. I have string lights I'd like to permanently connect to to this outlet (they plug in normally).
What is the best weather-proof solution so that I can keep the lights plugged in, but have the outlet protected from the elements, and use the switch to turn them on and off?


texts: How can I seal the lids on water collection barrels?

texts:
I'm working on a rainwater collection system.

Due to space limitations, I have arranged the barrels in a 2x2 configuration (as in the picture)

Problem with this configuration is that I can't get a good seal on the lids, and the 2 barrels on top never fill up.

Any ideas to improve the seal?


texts: P Trap? Ugly mess? Not much room to work with up there

texts: [underneath[![side][2]][2]Recently decided to replace the drain in my bathroom and learned a little about p traps from the inter web.  All the work was done by the previous owner.  Was wondering if this is an acceptable configuration to act as a trap?  Not too happy about how they cut into the ceiling joist either.  Not a lot of room to work up there.[From underneath


texts: What latch would work best for a front/top opening chest?

texts:
I'm building a chest (about 3' wide, 2' deep, 2' tall) where the front folds up over the top (270 degrees), then the front/top fold again to the back (another 270 degrees).  I need to know how best to latch it closed.

I'd like the latch to be spring loaded.  It does not need to lock.  I would like it to latch itself when the chest is closed, rather than needing to pull the spring back then move the front into place.

I was thinking of something along the lines of a laptop lid, where there's a hook that latches itself when closed, and a lever to slide the hook out of the way so it can open.  The catch plate would be on the bottom, and it would latch when the top/front is put down (rather than the front being swung into place alone).  I wasn't able to find anything like it online, probably because I have no idea what it's called.

The other idea I had would be to use something like a door latch on both bottom corners, which would latch when the front is swung into place.  Instead of a knob, you would slide the latch open.  Like this but furniture quality.

I really do not want something industrial/utility looking like this.

Can you help me locate something like what I'm looking for (or something better I haven't thought of)?

(I don't know much about hardware terminology, so please forgive me...)


texts: Is it safe to plug a power strip into a SurgeMaster outlet?

texts:
Similar to this question, but not exactly the same, since this is an actual outlet and not a power strip.

Also, is the grounded light supposed to be on? Should I just replace this with a normal outlet?


texts: Sub panel and neutral and ground bus bar

texts:
Some HVAC people under previous home owners put in a sub panel box and ran the AC as well as some lighting and outlet circuits from the sub panel.

The bus bars on the two sides of the panel box were used for both the neutral and the ground wires just like in the main breaker box.

I assumed that it was right because they were professionals and should have had an inspection for the sub panel and the HVAC. I have been reading about how sub panel boxes should have separate neutral and ground bus bars.

Are there panel boxes which are not designed to be sub panel boxes and should only be used as main breaker boxes?  The sub panel looks like the main box except the sub panel did not have a main shut off breaker in the sub panel.


texts: How to get rid of mosquitos in swimming pool standing water

texts:
We have an above ground pool with about 6 inches of water that does not drain. The drain is located above the bottom, to keep water in it and weigh down the pool during the off season.
However, the still warm water is the perfect breeding ground for mosquitos. This is a problem during the advent of warmer weather, before the pool is used.

It is a salt water system, and the pumps & chlorinator obviously cannot be operated with the water drained to this level. Once the pool is operational in the hot season, the conditioning and filtering prevent this mosquito problem. So this is really only a problem when the Spring weather is warm enough for breeding, but prior to starting the pool for the Summer.
Before I start-up the pool to fill it, I drain the water with a sump or water feature pump and then wet-vac it dry. This is something I do once at the beginning of the season, and takes a few hours of work. As measure to prevent mosquitos it would not be so good, since the bottom will fill with every rainfall and I'd have to start over.
What can I do to prevent mosquitos breeding until I start-up the pool for the season?


texts: I have a dust collector that has a 6-15 plug. I want to occasionally be able to plug a heater into that receptacle that requires a 6-30. Can I change the dust collector 6-15 to a 6-30?


texts: i don't understand why there have to be gaps between deck boards but not porch boards. our porch boards got rotted from rain water settling between them and needless to say there were no gaps when it was built. i had applied non-slip paint but i don't think it was painted when it was built and i don't think there were any gaps between the boards. i don't know how the boards could fit so snugly against each other or how the builder knew that water wouldn't settle between them.


texts:
Summary

For heating in my house, I've got a Burnham Series 2 (model B) gas boiler, and with all the snow this past winter (I live in Boston) I've had problems with backdraft causing the boiler to automatically turn off.

My theory is that all the snow covering the foundation prevented enough air from getting into the basement and causing negative pressure in the basement.  When I put my hand under the hood I could feel a strong flow of air going down.

My temporary solution was to open a small basement window.  Even though it was covered in snow, it let enough air in to stop the backdraft.  While this worked, I'd like a better and more permanent solution so I'm looking for guidance here.

More Details

The boiler setup is unconventional, and plumbers doing maintenance have been surprised so I'll share a few pictures to explain.

Although the boiler is right next to a chimney, because of shoddy work by the contractor who flipped the house about 10 years ago, the exhaust goes through a long exhaust pipe that is nearly horizontal across the basement and then goes up the outside of the house.

My understanding is that the nearly horizontal exhaust pipe going across the basement is not a good thing because it hinders air flow.  Rerouting the exhaust pipe does not seem feasible.  What other solutions are there?  Or should I just continue to open the basement window when needed?

This is the boiler:

This is the start of the exhaust pipe:

This is the exhaust pipe going across the basement:

This is the exhaust pipe going up the side of the house:


texts: Simple fix suggestions needed for damaged plywood paneling

texts:
In our laundry room a pet rabbit damaged the paneling in several places:

There are no replacement panels available that I could find.  I don't want to tear out and replace all the walls.

Things I've considered:

adding wainscoting to cover the damage.
wall papering just the lower 3 feet (it would look like
   wainscoting)
painting over the lower 3 feet with light gray paint (it would look
like wainscoting).

Any other ideas or suggestions?

[EDIT]
I liked the answers but I found a thick wall paper that looked like wainscotting and covered well.  I think a get the best results with the least effort:

Time will tell if it lasts.


texts: How can I insulate the door to my attic?

texts: I have a 5 level townhouse; heat seems to come out of the area around the door to the attic in warm days. is it possible to add insulation to this attic and door? the attic is walkable and has plywood floors so I'm not sure if i can lay insulation down and walk on it or what other options i have. the attic is pretty warm but ventilated appropriately. any ideas are appreciated.


texts: I just had a heat pump installed. I had central air already so the duct work was there already for a/c. Should my vents in the ceiling be changed?

texts: One person told me I need to change my  Registers on the first floor that are in the ceiling because the house was set up for air not heat. They say the Registers I have keep the cold air going a crossed ceiling because cold air falls. Now with the heat pump they say you need a Register to blow hot air to the floor because hot air raises.They say if you don't do this it will be cold where you sat and warm at the ceiling. Does anyone know what Registers I need For the heat pump/A/C ?? Do they make one Register that does both or doing you have to switch it out?


texts: This bedroom was converted from a garage attached to the house. There's some black mold where the bed used to be. What's the best way to get rid of it?


texts: What kind of screws are used for the door knob of an interior door?

texts: When my painter took off the door knob of an interior door, he lost the two screws that held the door knob in place.  Does anyone happen to know what kind of screws they are?  They look like some type of Philips-head machine screws.


texts: Should carbon monoxide detectors be installed in rooms containing gas appliances?

texts:
This might be 2 questions so I can separate it into two if needed.

I want to put a CO detector in two places of my home (kitchen and garage).  However, the instructions that came with the CO detector said not to put it in there.

In the kitchen, I have a gas stove.  I also want to put one in the garage because of the water heater.

I was reading the instructions for the CO detector.  It said not to put one in either of these rooms.  It doesn't state any exceptions (water heater/gas stove) so I don't know if it saying not to install it in these rooms is with or without the presence of these appliances.

Should I install detectors in these rooms or not?


texts: Do I need to install dry wall in my basement?

texts:
I have a concrete basement with concrete walls. I'm thinking about just painting the basement and not have to put up dry wall because I want to save money. Is that a good idea or should I really install the dry walls? My basement doesn't have a water problem.

My basement ceiling is also exposed with nails wire. I will need to cover that up. I will eventually install some type of flooring too.


texts: What problems could be caused by putting mains water in to the pipe from a shared water tank?

texts:
I'm having a boiler replaced and have chosen a combi boiler. One of the benefits is mains water pressure hot and cold water where previously I had low pressure coming from a tank. The boiler is in place and the hot water is plumbed and the pressure is fine, but putting the mains to the cold taps in the bathroom is a problem.

I'm the top flat of three storeys (ground floor; first floor; my floor) and there is a large water tank in the loft which serves the block. Due to access restrictions and the way the place was built the pipes go up in to the loft and then down in to the bathroom. We are going to do the same with a new mains pipe to the bathroom. However, we can't just drop a new mains pipe down in to the bathroom unless we rip the bathroom out because the pipes go to the mixer behind the tiling and we can't see a way to drop a new pipe down. It's a bathroom that is less than 5 years old so I'm loathe to start ripping it apart.

Could we cut the tank pipe and put the mains through it? This would give me and any other flats mains pressure for our cold taps in the bathrooms. Is there something that could go wrong with this?


texts: all my 240 circuits aren't working anymore in sub panel but the sub panel is getting 240 volts

texts:
am having an issue with a sub panel in my kitchen. I am reading 240 volts across the red and black coming from the main panel, in the panel I am reading 120 from each conductor to ground on all circuits. But on all of my double pole breakers I am reading 120 to ground but only 10 volts between line 1 and line 2... So it appears I am not getting 240 volts in the panel. The breakers don't need to be moved as everything used to work fine...

More weird info - The stove lights come on but no heat... the light in the kitchen and the outside lights only seem to work with the stove element on... Time for a new panel? help! Thanks!


texts: What is the purpose of this grounding screw in a plastic electrical box?

texts: Upon inspecting my light bulb socket in the garage of my new construction home (2018), I found a random grounding screw which wasn't wired to anything but attached to some bar. Does anyone know what the grounding screw and the bar it's attached to is for? In fact, the ground wire wasn't connected to anything.


texts: Can I install a 60A main breaker in a load center rated for 125A?

texts:
Following my previous question about feeding a sub-panel...

I have access to a new-in-box 125A load center, which is more current than I need, but the form factor is good. Can I drop to a 60A feeder wire and breaker setup without running into any obscure code-related incompatibilities? What additional hardware do I need to install the main breaker since this one is "Main Lugs Only"?


texts: Can I use 14/2 wire on a 2500 watt heater

texts: Can I use 14 Guage wire on a 2500 watt baseboard heater.


texts: How should I fill the holes where my curtain rod was, so that I can reuse them?

texts:
My curtain rail has fallen down and the holes are too big to plug and re-use. What is the best products/method to fill the deep holes and hang my curtain rails?

Please note:

Curtain rails are wooden.
I need to hang in the same place, as this is rented property.
Brick walls.

For clarity here is the hole:

Screw and plug:

How it should look:


texts: I've googled this, but found no satisfactory answers. I've found a diaphragm pump on amazon for $20, but it has one problem- it's designed for water. I specifically need a diaphragm pump/compressor, but they all appear to be expensive and achieve a low psi. For my application, I need a PSI of around 100, but I don't need a high flow rate. In short, Can a water pump be used to compress air? Thanks in advance.


texts:
I have my live wire coming into a 2gang switch box. I'm splitting off from their; one wire for two pot lights which one switch will control, a separate wire for the middle one which will be solely controlled by the second switch; then down to a receptacle.

So ultimately I have 4 black and 4 white wires to configure.... i don't think tying all 4 blacks with pigtails (one for each switch and one for the receptacle) is the "right way to go about it?

Thoughts?


texts: Shower stall leaking water in the corner

texts:
My master shower is leaking water at the corner. I have tried to fix it myself one month ago. It only worked for 3 weeks then start leaking again. Should I find shower repair company to redo the stall? or should I just recaulk myself? I feel recaulk might not resolve the root issue. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance

highlighted is the leaking area

I remove the grout which is detached from the stall

This is after I put new grout and I also put sealant on the new grout

Old grout is detached from the stall.


texts: Tub only leaks when filled and plug removed

texts: my tenants called stating that water is pouring from their walls. They live on the second floor.  A new tub was installed directly above on the third floor and has been used only for showering without any water dripping this past week.  The tub was filled and when the drain was opened, this is when the leak occurred. They showered the next day and no water leak.  Only when large volume at once to drain.  Is there some overflow that can't handle all this volume/ pressure?  Thanks. Jill


texts: Why did a bulge appear after I mounted a wine rack to my wall?

texts:
I'm new to 'DIY-ing' and this evening I mounted a wooden wine rack to my wall. I used a stud finder, made my marks and when I drilled the hole on the left hand side it felt like.. nothing.. no stud. I shifted the drilled a little to the left and tried again, still nothing. I tried once more, shifted the drill a little more left and I got the stud. No issues with the stud on the right hand side. Hung the wine rack and it looks perfect. Pretty sturdy too.

A couple hours later a 'bubble' appeared.. Its weird, it looks like a bubble from when water is trapped behind paint but when I touched it, it was hard, almost like the drywall raised, but only in that one area on the left hand side.

Does anyone know what this could be? All help is greatly appreciated.

Thank-you.


texts: Dimmer and switch connected to outlet to always hot

texts:
I have a dimmer + switch that is connected to an outlet on the other side of the room. That outlet is where I'd like to plug in my TV, and using that outlet specifically makes a buzzing sound come out of the TV. So, I'd like to wire it to be always hot and replace the faceplate with a dummy plate.

Picture is attached.

My understanding is that I can take out the two black wires that go into the switch, use a wire nut to connect them, and I'm good. What do I do with the ground (green) wire? The dummy plate won't have anything metal to connect it to.


texts: Is it safe/allowed to adapt a shaver socket (BS4573) to a standard BS1363 plug (UK)?

texts:
Bathrooms in the UK may have a shaver socket that is (to my understanding) limited to supplying 200mA, is protected by an isolation transformer and uses a two pronged plug similiar but not identical to the common Europlug (BS4573).

I just bought a shaver that came with a BS1363 plug, the common 3 rectangular pronged plug in the UK.  Is it safe and allowed to adapt between the two?  According to wikipedia, BS1363-3 allows adapting a BS1363 socket to a BS4573 plug.  That is, it allows plugging in a shaver with a shaver plug into a regular BS1363 socket.  It does not seem to allow going the other way.

I think this is safe to do, the load I want to use consumes on the order of 50-80mA and is doubly insulated (it is a shaver after all).  The only concern one might have is that such an adapter might allow a person to plug in a more problematic load.  Then again, the shaver socket already has provisions for plugging in an american two pronged plug.


texts: The igniters on my range are clicking without me actuating them

texts:
Frigidaire range. I hear  the igniters clicking about every 30 seconds.
Why do the  burner igniters on my range try to light when I’m not using them?

M# fpg$3085kfc S# nfo1942381 Took a while to find it’s been along time since I’ve worked on appliances

That is odd after cleaning the moisture must cause the ground but I haven’t clean my oven in a while.


texts: Can I replace the wax gasket without lifting the whole toilet?

texts: I am a woman who cannot lift the back tank of a toilet.  To replace the wax gaskets, can't I just turn off the water, remove the bolts from one side and replace with the new gaskets - then do the other side?  Turn the water on and flush the toilet to refill the bowl?  I'm not understanding why the entire tank has to be removed.


texts: Why would my ceiling light only work half the time?

texts: My bathroom ceiling light doesn't work right after it has been turned off. After a period of time it works again. What's happening?


texts: How does one identify compatible shower drain covers?

texts:
One of the several things that our contractor never completed on our project was the shower drain.  We've got this awesome hole in the shower floor right now:

Sorry, I know it looks nasty.

THe problem is that we don't know how to identify the brand, and therefore have no clue how to find a replacement drain cover.  There aren't even any screw holes there to attach anything!

It seems that aesthetically-speaking, the cover should go over the inner lip, but then there's very little support for someone to step on the cover without it deforming.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what we can do to find a compatible drain cover?


texts: When add a new closet in an existing space, should I attach the bottom plate to the flooring or the subfloor?

texts: I am adding a new large closet, 3 walls and a door, in an existing bedroom.  Can I attach the baseplate of the new walls directly on the existing oak flooring, or do I need to cut a channel in the oak flooring so the base plate is attached to the subfloor?  What about the ceiling top plate?


texts: Building an Attic Loft with a Low Pitch Roof (Approximately 5:12)

texts:
I'm new to the site.

I'm curious as to what kind of potentially usable space I might see if I built (or had help building) an attic loft in a 2/2 home with a low pitched roof (about 5:12 pitch).

Basic Details:
- 1160 square feet, 2 bed, 2 bath
- 5:12 pitch (not a high pitched roof)
- slab = 40' x 30' (approximately)

If I move forward with the idea, I'm thinking of replacing the attic ladder with a spiral staircase - currently in a closet.

I have not purchased the home yet, so unfortunately I cannot get exact measurements.

Any direction or research ideas would be helpful as I am a complete novice to this idea. So far, everything I've found are Attic Loft ideas for High Pitched Roofs so even a website link for an attic loft with a low pitched roof example would be helpful.

Many Thanks!
-Gabriel B.
Houston, TX


texts: Why does the plaster crack beneath the window sill?

texts:
Sorry if this is an obvious question.

Can anyone tell me why the dry lined plaster in our house so frequently cracks beneath the edge of the windows?

At first I thought it may be relating to the heat changes or something over time; however, we've recently had a room stripped down, new plasterboard put in and it's been re-skimmed, and three weeks later, it's cracked just beneath the edge of the window.

The cracks are barely visible, and don't seem to get any worse over time - they just crack and stay cracked.


texts: Electrical box - What are all these wires?

texts:
I want to install a light fixture on a box that's in the ceiling. I opened it up and I saw WAY MORE wires than I expected. I expected just a green, black and yellow wire.

Here are two photos of the wires.

Here's a close up.

Can someone explain what each of these wires do? I see a single green wire, a single blue, 4 green wires twisted together, 4 white wires twisted together, 4 yellow wires twisted together, and a single red wire that I can't pull out of the box. Which one do i use as my ground, live and neutral wire?

Just to give some context, I live in a condo in Toronto, Canada. The condo was completed in 2014. Thanks.


texts: When should an asphalt shingle roof be replaced?

texts: My shingle roof is 21 years old.  However, it still looks good.  My roof has aged well.  Should I play it safe and just arbitrarily replace the roof based on time?  Or, is it safe to hold off a few more years? I live in Massachusetts (NOT on the coast) and I've heard estimations for asphalt shingle roofs to be around 20-25 years.


texts: Can a brown, loamy wall be whitened with lime paint?

texts:
We had a brown wall, consisting of some loam- or clay-like material. (When you touch it, it smells like in the pottery workshop.) We want to paint it white.

We cleaned the wall and brushed it thoroughly, and applied white lime paint to it. However, the paint started to mix with the brown underneath, leading to a... very unsatisfying result:

We're done for the day, and are planning to wait until the wall has thoroughly dried, and try again with more lime paint. We are prepared to apply as many layers of lime paint as possible, but we're not sure whether the result is ever going to be fully white.

We did think about using conventional wall paint from now on, but we fear it would not fare much better on the loamy surface, and break away.

Does anyone have an idea how to best proceed from here?

Also, what could the brown wall have consisted of? Are there common techniques that make a wall smell like clay?


texts: Moen 1225 cartridge does not stay in place

texts:
I recently replaced a Moen 1225 cartridge (for a T8350 Moen faucet).  That fixed the leak, but now when I turn on the faucet (by pulling it out) the faucet does not stay at the temperature I put it at.  The faucet handle will turn just a little bit.  The handle moves very freely.  I checked the holding screw to the cartridge and it is good and tight.  So the cartridge and the handle are moving together.  How can that be fixed?

Edit: the temp does not vary much but the faucet does move enough to make the tem change. And when turning the faucet, there is very little friction. I have similar faucets in the house and they need more effort to turn than this one for which I replaced the cartridge


texts: I want to be able to control the chandelier's light (off and on) using the remote. My configuration is in the image above. I can only get the chandelier to turn on but can't get the remote function to work. It's called a "Universal On and Off Ceiling Fan Remote Control" model #99112 if that helps. On the Home Depot website, others have mentioned they can get a single light to work with this remote/receiver. Guidance is very much appreciated. Thank you!


texts:
How can I find out this angle grinder model/brand? The label has come off so I dont know the model. The grinder is not working and I believe it is the brushes, how can I know what brushes to buy if I dont know the brand or the model? I was able to read something I believe it is "Pa6 ge30"

[img]https://image.ibb.co/jamo5a/17373171_1500457109989280_506947401_o.jpg
[img]https://image.ibb.co/fyrSyv/17351223_1500456736655984_406501642_n.jpg
[img]https://image.ibb.co/ktT1Qa/17430704_1500456806655977_787717601_o.jpg
[img]https://image.ibb.co/iNQ4dv/17392696_1500456909989300_2107525600_n.jpg
[img]https://image.ibb.co/bRWMQa/17410313_1500456943322630_1658083182_n.jpg
[img]https://image.ibb.co/gUzVJv/17408258_1500457016655956_1132823352_o.jpg
[img]https://image.ibb.co/ms6XWF/17408100_1500457046655953_1457825632_o.jpg


texts: What are guidelines for drilling into a top plate?

texts:
Application example:

If one wants to add a new receptacle on the second floor in a finished room with no receptacles, the easiest method appears to be doing the wiring in the attic.

However, this would require one to drill one hole through the top plate, in order to get the wire from the desired receptacle location into the attic.

This still beats the only other method to add a new receptacle, which would require one to drill multiple holes in multiple studs, until one reaches the desired receptacle location.

Questions:

How can you determine if a top plate is load-bearing?
If it is, what are guidelines to bear in mind, in terms of the location of the hole and the maximum size of the hole that can be drilled, without requiring additional structural blocking?


texts: Identifying Vent in Unfinished Basement & General Bathroom Layout

texts:
I am looking to finish my basement and wanted to get validation on my vent tie-in locations.
I believe I have correctly identified it in the photo (top right of photo).
I believe the builders have it routed directly to a drain.

I plan on reducing the 3" to use for my dual vanity, should i just replace this 3"?

I added a vent for the toilet, can i just use the one from the sink?

Also, would appreciate any helpful thought on the layout below.


texts: What height to attach SWA cable to brickwork

texts:
I am about to fit SWA (Steel Wire Armoured) cable to the outside of my house to supply power for a garden office. The cable is mostly underground but will run along the back wall of my house for a few metres. The ground below the wall is grass. Is it best to route the cable as low down as possible, or is there some benefit in screwing the clips above the damp proof course layer? The area will be subject to lawnmower and strimmer usage.
I'm based in the UK, in case that makes a difference.


texts: Gaps between granite countertop and plywood base

texts:
I recently had a 3cm granite countertop installed over a plywood base (approx. 72" x 24").  As is often the case, the plywood thickness varies throughout by 0.010" to 0.050".  Thus, even though the base is quite level in both dimensions, there are random gaps between it and the granite.  I'm concerned about the potential for cracks in the future, esp. if someone puts something heavy on the granite (or climbs up).  My biggest concern is one end of the granite, where the last 12" or so floats over the plywood by 0.010-0.030".  For now I shimmed this area with some thin metal plates.

Of course, this does nothing for any other hidden gaps; eliminating these would probably require a very thin layer of thinset or similar, then bed the granite on top while wet.  After checking various resources, I haven't found anyone who actually does this (other than tile).

This is my first experience with granite.  Am I being overly-concerned, and the granite will likely flex without issue if pressed?  Or is this a common problem that most people ignore & hope for the best?

Thanks!

John


texts:
I am trying to disassemble an IKEA desk, and need to get the cam locks off and out to take the desk apart. The issue is not prying them out, it's turning them to get them unlocked.

Most of them turned 180 degrees smoothly, from locked to unlocked, as they should.

There are only 2 cam locks left in the desk that just won't turn at all. Something is resisting the turn completely, it's jammed.

I used a Phillip's head and a flat head screwdriver, put in as much strength as possible, tried manouvering the boards (that the locks keep together) to get the bolts into a better position? Even tried an impact screwdriver, but stopped that quickly, as something was still resiting the motion.

As you can see I got desperate, now I'm out of ideas for how to unlock these cam locks. Any suggestions?


texts:
In 3 rooms upstairs electric outlets stopped working but overhead lights work - any idea
I reset all breakers still same problem
Then to make things weirder, is that the outlets will start working again, only to shut off.
There doesn't seem to be any cycle to how long on/off.
No A/C are on.  Otherwise standard equipment in the house (frig, freezer, TVs, computers) nothing too heavy
Any ideas?


texts: Removing '70's carpeting from outdoor cement stairs

texts:
I have a mid-century ranch house in the Seattle area (moisty, mossy). A previous owner decided to apply green "outdoor" carpet to the stairs and back step.

I give the carpet credit for lasting maybe 35 years, but it has deteriorated to the point where it is peeling off and a danger to anyone who uses the stairs.

I want to remove the carpet entirely, but it is glued down and is putting up a fight against mere pulling.

Question: Can anyone recommend a way to remove the carpet before someone gets hurt? A bio-friendly solvent to help get rid of the glue? Soaking the carpet in water? Some kind of scraping tool perhaps?


texts: How can I figure out where power is coming from in 4-way switch wiring?

texts: My 4-way switches work correctly.  I would like help figuring out where the power is coming in from and where the light fixture is (at the end, after a certain switch, etc.)  I'm also trying to understand what is happening in this electrical box where "switch B" is housed--there are 4 cables entering the box.  The green line represents the white wire.


texts: Fridge works (or worked) but not the freezer

texts:
I own a KitchenAid KSC24C8EYP02. Suddenly, the freezer portion stopped working. The fridge portion kept cold but not the freezer. I have found some posts with the opposite scenario, but not this one.

I suspected the control board and ordered a new one from Sears. Just put it in, only to discover that neither side working. The freezer is blowing air but not getting cold and the fridge is not cooling either.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


texts: How to seal swamp cooler ducting into house siding?

texts: My swamp cooler enters the house horizontally through an exterior wall.  What is the correct way to seal this interface to the wood siding?  Should I just use an exterior caulking around the edges?


texts: Basement Subfloor at Bottom Stair Landing

texts:
I am in the process of finishing my basement, but I ran into an issue with the new height of the floor and the bottom of the stairs. My new basement flooring is raised ~2" (OSB nailed on top 2x2s which are attached to the cement floor via tapcons).
I have yet to do directly in front of the stairs because I am fearing I will be breaking code. I have been searching around and have seen that there may not be more than a 3/8ths variance between stair heights, which my subfloor would obviously break, but was not clear if the landing is considered within this restriction.
If it does break code, do I need to modify my steps to accommodate the new floor height? I'm not terribly concerned with finishing the area directly in front of the stairs, but then that also leaves the issue of a gap between the cement and the new floor (tripping hazard?).
Any advice is appriciated.


texts: How can I replace the seal on the bottom of my shower door?

texts: I am trying to replace the seal on the bottom of my shower door. Any ideas what it is called and/or what I could replace it with? The "Shower Door Company" of Atlanta, Georgia made the door, which is the "Cameo" model.


texts: best way to install a flat wall fixture on a sightly curved wall

texts:
In our rental property, the kitchen walls are all ever so slightly curved (as are a lot of walls in our house)

We want to put up a knife magnet. Obviously we are keen for this not to be wobbly in any way as this could lead to the blades falling, not good. Any tips on the best way to achieve this, ruling out re-plastering the room.


texts: How do I wire a GE oven that requires 110v + 220v in a 220v-only home?

texts:
I have GE oven (JB680SP3SS), purchased in 2011. It requires 220v + 110v.

The place I was living in had 110 and 220.

Last year I moved to another city and the place I live it only have 220v.

I brought a handyman and he installed the oven. I did not know why only the burners were working, whereas the control panel buttons don’t work and the clock is just black.

So, I called a local maintenance store and they told me that my oven is an older model that doesn’t have a built-in transformer like the new ones. So, they installed a transformer (10 months ago).

2 days ago, the control panel went black again. I opened the back plate and discovered that the transformer blew up!

I’m thankful that it did not burn my house.

I have a couple of questions, because I don’t know what to do.

Is it true that the new ovens have transformers built-in?

How do I know which transformer to get for safe installation?

P.S. I don’t trust electricians here, as they’re not certified.


texts: Piping gravity fed condensate line down interior wall into crawlspace then through rim joist to outside

texts:
Mini split piping and control lines will run up the outside of the house into attic, then to interior Wall units. I can’t run the condensate drain lines on this path without pumps.
The idea is to run them down the interior wall straight into the crawlspace then to outside.
Use 3/4 pex down to crawlspace, then pvc to the outside?
Does this sound ok?
Any concerns?
Thanks!


texts: How do you protect solar panels from hail?

texts:
Saw another question on solar panels and it reminded me of one big thing that always made me hesitant to consider them.

We get several hail storms each year and having an expensive glass covered(?) panel facing almost straight up seems like it is asking for trouble. How do people who have solar panels mitigate this risk?


texts:
Pardon my uneducated question, new to the codes...in short I want to add a subpanel, along an existing one. Here is the setup:

There is a 200A service with a main service breaker and branch-breakers panel on the outside of the house. It is located on the garage external wall.
A single 100A subpanel is feed across the garage by a multi-conductor cable (looks like SE cable AWG-2 3+1 AL). It's protected via a 100A breaker in the main panel.
There is no main breaker in the subpanel, just branch brakers.
The feeder cable runs across the garage ceiling to the subpanel through a drywalled "duct" ~3ftx1ft on the ceiling of the garage (there are other cables and AC air ducts there). About 35ft run.

I want to add a second 100A sub panel, in exactly the same location, side by side w/ the first one.

What cable/wiring type can I use to feed it?
Do I need a main breaker in the subpanel if I have a breaker in the main panel? It's all one "building".
I would have a back entry to the main panel in a 2x4 wall - how to make the "turn"? (the existing feeder cable is just bent and enters via 1" adaptor).
I have a 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 Gray Stranded AL SER cable I could use (prob overkill for 100A but I have it). Is it up to code to run it along existing feeder via this walled ceiling "duct"? On a 100A breaker?

Thanks,
Michal


texts: Do I need to add a ground conductor when replacing a wall light fixture?

texts: I have a new wall light that has 2 wires negative and positive but no ground the fixture screws directly to the wall and mot into a box do i need to add a ground wire to the fixture


texts: How to patch concrete as invisibly as possibe?

texts:
I had a plumbing repair done this week that required them to jackhammer a small hole through a concrete porch in front of my house. It is small enough that I’ll probably attempt the patch myself, but I am concerned with taking the best approach to doing this, to avoid the repair being obvious.

How do I repair concrete such that the repair is as discreet as possible?


texts: How should I attach a C wire on my chromalox boiler?

texts:
I have a chromalox canada boiler model EDB-2. Recently I purchased a wireless honeywell transponder and thermostat, and am trying to install them. I currently have W and R wires but am missing a common ground C wire, and am unsure where to connect it.  I have 18/3 and 18/5 spare wires.

I've enclosed photos of the inside of the boiler.  The LV terminals are numbered T1, T2 and 1-5.

An HVAC consultant was able to supply power to the honeywell transponder.  Unfortunately when we attempted to use the thermostat, the transponder lost power.  The HVAC consultant felt that the boiler could not supply sufficient power.

So how can I connect the transponder to the boiler?

Click for larger views


texts: Why is the toilet tank still running after replacing rubber gasket?

texts:
The toilet tank was leaking water, so I replaced the rubber gasket at the bottom of the drain valve with a new identical one (size and shape). However, the toilet is still running. If I manually press down the drain valve really hard, then the leaking stops.

Nothing seems to be  wrong with the valve itself, it can move up and down without any problems. (* Well, it WAS ok until I accidentally broke it while experimenting :S)

I noticed, however, that the new gasket already accumulated some limescale. Is it possible that the fix counterpart of the gasket should be replaced as well? Is that even possible without replacing the whole tank? (It seems to me not possible to remove it at all.)

In other words, I should decide if I need a new valve or a whole new tank?
(Still in other words: can it be that replacing the gasket is not enough, but replacing the valve is?)


texts: Is roloc abrasive available in an elongated cylinder / tube shape?

texts:
EDIT: Since asking the question I've found "grinding cones" and "grinding plugs".

I've seen roloc discs but am wondering if this abrasive material is available in a tubular shape? I've been trying to search for them with  roloc tube and roloc cylinder without success. Maybe they're called something else?

An elongated cylinder shape would be great for situations where a disk doesn't fit (see pic for example). Roloc tubes in different cross-sectional diameters with an axial shaft so they could be used in a larger high-RPM rotary tool would be just the thing to remove rust and old paint from such a curlicue.


texts: If I pull an electrical permit for my home in FL can I hire a licensed journeyman electrician to do part of the work?

texts: If I pull my own electrical permit for adding a subpanel and 2 circuits in my Escambia County, FL home, can I hire a licensed journeyman electrician to do all or part of the work with me?  He cannot pull his own permit and his master electrician will charge me double the permit fee to let him pull it under the master's license.


texts: Why does this switch throw the breaker when turned on?

texts:
I volunteered to help a friend with an electrical problem she was having - two of the receptacles in her bedroom did not work.
   All the receptacles that I looked at had two black wires and two white wires, which I interpret as they are all in the middle of a run.  The wires in all the receptacles used the "push-in" connections rather than screw-down connections, and some had come loose.   I replaced one of the receptacles as the push-in connectors didn't seem to grab any more.   At this point, the receptacles still didn't work.
   Next I went to a working receptacle in the bedroom and found the same problem, with evidence of arcing on one of the black wires.   I replaced this receptacle and, Ta-Dah!, all receptacles in the bedroom worked.

Now comes the problem.   There is also a switch on the wall that always appeared to do nothing.   I was assuming that the switch controlled one/both of the non-working receptacles, but after my fix all the receptacles worked while the switch was in the off position.   Plus, when the door is opened, the switch is behind the door;  if it was intended to turn on a room light (there is no ceiling fixture), then it should probably be on the other side of the door.
   Finally, when I turn the switch on, the circuit breaker trips.  This is the same circuit breaker that controls the outlets in the room.   The light switch is single-pole, and appears to be the end of a switch loop - the black wire goes to one side of the switch, and the white wire goes to the other side of the switch.   The only other wire in that box is the ground, which is attached to the box itself.

Maybe there used to be a light fixture, and it was wire-nutted together and plastered over?
   How can I trace the wires through the walls?   I suppose I could simply disconnect and wire-nut (separately) the offending wires in the light switch, but I'd like to get it all set up correctly.


texts:
I have really low water pressure in my home at about 15 PSI and sometimes even 0. I already have a check valve on my main 3/4" line from the water meter. Since electricity is pretty expensive where I live (about $0.35/KWH) and also goes out sometimes, I was thinking of getting a solar panel to charge a battery and run a 12 Volt water pump. I would like some recommendations and what I should look for when buying the water tank, pressure tank, pump, battery, and solar panel.

Would a 100 Watt solar panel connected to a charge controller to charge and maintain a car 12 Volt battery connected to a 12 Volt 5GPM water pump be ok?


texts: How to install pre finished hardwood over existing softwood floor

texts:
I have  200 square feet wood floors that do not appear to be hardwood, they are in pretty bad shape and need refinishing or replacing. The quotes we got for refinishing are $600. As I said the floor is not in great shape  and at $600 I could get pre finished hardwood for the same price (although I would have to install my self).
The current floor is a little uneven and has some dips and water spots. If I were to install the floor my self, would it require doing anything major to the existing floor?
Can I install it right over the existing floor if I use an underlayment?
I've read that if you want to install a hardwood floor over an existing one you need to lay the boards perpendicular, but is this still true if you use an underlayment?
I am looking for some guidance here, I want to do it right-ish but also not break the bank.


texts:
Walls are 7-feet apart. For the bar, I am using metal pipe about an inch two inches in diameter. What is the best way to mount an end of the bar to the face of the wall?

(PS: Very similar question here: DIY door frame pull-up bar but I am looking specifically to attach the ends of the bar to a brick or concrete wall.)


texts: Can I run a 120v/15amp 120 watt Hard Wire towel rack connection to the existing GFCI within the same bathroom

texts: Can I  run a 120volt 120 watt  Hard Wire towel rack connection to an existing GFCI with-in the same bathroom ?


texts: Why does adding refrigerant increase subcooling and decrease superheat?

texts:
Please correct my following notion of why adding refrigerant increases subcooling and decreases superheat:
Let's assume a hypothetical situation:

condensation point of uncompressed refrigerant (vapor line): 10 degrees
condensation point of compressed refrigerant (liquid line): 150 degrees degrees
temperature of vapor entering compressor: 20 degrees (10 degrees superheat)
temperature of vapor leaving compressor: 180 degrees (30 degrees superheat)
temperature of liquid leaving outdoor coil: 120 degrees (30 degrees subcooling)
temperature of liquid leaving metering device: -20 degrees (30 degrees subcooling)

If I add refrigerant to the system the overall system pressure (and thus condensation point) is going to go up, leading to the new situation afterwards:

condensation point of uncompressed refrigerant (vapor line): 15 degrees
condensation point of compressed refrigerant (liquid line): 155 degrees degrees
temperature of vapor entering compressor: 20 degrees (5 degrees superheat)
temperature of vapor leaving compressor: 180 degrees (25 degrees superheat)
temperature of liquid leaving outdoor coil: 120 degrees (35 degrees subcooling)
temperature of liquid leaving metering device: -20 degrees (35 degrees subcooling)

Note how the actual temperatures have not changed but the amount of subcooling/superheat has changed because the two condensation points have changed. This is why adding refrigerant increases subcooling and decreases superheat. At least that's how it works in my mind.
Anyone who actually understands this stuff who's willing to confirm/correct?


texts:
I currently have a 20 amp double pole breaker supplying a multi-wire branch circuit for two 120v receptacles in a double gang box.
I'd like to remove the 120v receptacles and install a 240v receptacle.
Can I simply attach the two hots and the ground from the circuit? If so, what should I do with the neutral wire?


texts: How to calculate dead/live load on this 2x4 structure

texts:
Here is my general plan.

These will be built in the corner of a room and each bay will have a lag into the wall's 2x4 including one in the adjacent wall. The idea is to build these 2x4 frames and wrap them with 1/4" plywood.

I have a few questions.

How can a calculate what kind of load the wood itself can take? I'd probably use #2 Hem-fir.
Being 2x4's, I'd have 3.5" for the lag to hold, eg. I could use a big bolt. How can I calc the right bolt and does that affect the load rating? Is there a point it causes the wall's stud to fail?
I was looking at 5mm birch ply to wrap with, do I get more strength by using 1/4" ply or does the added weight counteract it?
If I built the whole thing with 2x2's (1.5"x1.5" actual), how much would it change things?


texts: Has anyone been reporting a problem with motor loads on Afci's or Gfci's in residential or commercial locations?


texts: How do I reapply travertine tile used for a backsplash on my kitchen wall

texts: I originally used to double-sided sticky paper to install my travertine tile pieces to the wall, but some have come off and some are loose.  We didn't space them at all just did a pyramid type placement, so no grout is involved.


texts: Rewiring light fixture and switch to bring neutral line to the switch: one 12/3 switch-leg vs two 12/2 wire to bring power to switch?

texts:
I'm looking at rewiring a ceiling-mounted light fixture (a basic light bulb mount) and the accompanying switch in my utility room. It's in a very accessible part of my attic, and I'd like to do it in part because it's old wiring and also because I'm installing smart switches which need neutrals at the switch box.
For the record, I know that I can install smart switches that don't need neutrals, like Lutron Caseta, but I also just want the wiring to be updated and it's fairly accessible, in a wall with no insulation. So I figure this is a good place to experiment with a fairly simply DIY project. There are other reasons with smart switches why you want a neutral switch, particularly with Zigbee switches where switches that are on main power can act as repeaters, strengthening the wireless mesh network.
In any case, currently the light fixture has the circuit's power run to the fixture directly and then a switch leg runs down the wall to the switch, with old NM 12/2 wire (ungrounded), bringing two conductive lines to a single-pole switch.
Here's a diagram as it currently stands:

I see two ways to potentially rewire the switch:

The first and simplest way is to continue to use the same single switch leg schematic, but instead of fishing down 12/2 wire (as there currently is), I'd fish down 12/3 wire, to bring down a line and load powering the light fixture, and also connect the neutral at the light fixture into the white wire in the 12/3 which would then terminate a neutral line at the switch.

A second, more complex way would be to rewire the light fixture entirely so that the circuit power runs first into the switch (using 12/2 wire), and then I'd run another 12/2 up to the light fixture. So I'd have to fish down two power lines from the attic (the main power and then back up to the light). Here's what it would then look like:

What's the ideal way to wire a switch and fixture given this kind of situation? Does it really matter if power runs to the switch first and then to the light fixture, or vice-versa?


texts: 240V outlet not working, reading 120V on each leg, 0V between legs

texts:
I have a woodworking shop with 3 - 240V outlets. I recently had some electrical work done in the house and now one of the outlets doesn't work. Testing the 2 working outlets (see below) I get 120V between ground and both legs and 240V between the two legs. But if I test the non-working outlet I do not get the 240V between the legs. Is this something I could fix easily or should I get an electrician to come back out and fix it?

Edit:
Electrical panel, I switched the two 240V circuits off to better highlight which circuits I'm talking about. The bottom right breakers go to a second panel...

Edit 2:
Dead panel and info sheet. Sadly it looks like the info sheet needs some updating.


texts: I turned off my water heater while on vacation. I did not turn off my water softener. I returned home to find a salt ring outside the water softener overflow pan and what appears to be dried up water stain. It is a new water heater and providing hot water. What might the problem be?


texts: I tore down an old shed that have electricity going to it. Now the shed is gone but I have an exposed wire outside. I want to install a small street light there next spring but what should I do with the electricle wiring till then? The wires still have power going to them because the shed didn't have its own breaker.


texts: Sub-panel ground and neutral connected to main ground and neutral bar?

texts:
I want to connect a RV sub panel with a 50a RV receptacle a 20a gfci receptacle totaling 70a. I have 200a overhead wires feeding a metered box with a 200a main breaker. Connected is a 20a double that runs the well pump and then feeds the 200a house breaker box through underground. I will use a 70a double breaker to feed the sub panel. Here are the 2 questions.

The main has the ground and neutral on same bar. Do I connect both the neutral and ground from the sub panel to that same bar? (With the actual sub panel unbounded)
Would the physical location and connection of the panel as shown in picture be ok?

Metered entrance:

RV Panel:

Proposed installation location:


texts: Should a water heater's anode be replaced?

texts:
I hear conflicting information on replacing the anode bar on a water heater or not since the water heater will be replaced anyway.

Should the anode bar be periodically replaced? Why? How often?


texts: We had an 8 foot square hottub in our bedroom for 10+ years. Because of the weight, the floor has sagged in that section. The tub is gone now and we had carpeted around it, but now there is a big square spot that has a dip in it. I'd say the dip is at least 1/2 inch. (Our bed is over the spot now)  How can we level it out?


texts:
I reinstalled some louver doors which had been stored in the basement for a while. Its a double-door pair.

Possibly because of the position in which they were stored, or perhaps humidity, they have warped a bit.

This photo shows the difference at the bottom of the doors when they are evenly closed at the top:

So that's like 1-1/2" over the length of the doors (about 80").

The jamb material is about 5/8" thick and 3-1/2" deep.

It seems like both doors are actually warped a bit, but contrary to each other which doubles the effect. The hinge side is OK - or at least by fastening them to the jambs again, the hinge sides were straightened out.

I'm looking for advice on how to flatten these out. I can actually twist them just by hand, but they basically spring back. I'm concerned about breaking something by going too far with that.


texts:
Can someone explain me the function of following armature in a kitchen?

The valve is probably for the dish washer, but what is the purpose
for the metal thing below? It does not seem modifiable and has small
slides near the front cap.

The armature is at a height of about 1.2m in the middle of the kitchen wall.
At a height of about 30cm there are different connections
(water for dish washer and regular kitchen water / wastewater connections).


texts: Help needed identifying major structural issues

texts:
So here's the low down:

Bought a home about four months ago. Inspection made no mention of any cracks anywhere, and honestly didn't even mention a single thing about the foundation (probably a big red flag).  After moving in I noticed a lengthy horizontal crack about 20 feet long, hairline, about five feet up from the slab. There area also a few horizontal cracks. Minor bowing, which I know to be hydrostatic pressure from the outside. Two contractors have recommended steel I-beams and a sump pump. One recommended entrenching the front of the house and backfilling with gravel. The other said the bowing is not bad enough for that. It is a block foundation.

On top of this, I've noticed a lot of cracks that were poorly patched with tape and mud. These cracks are now reappearing. They appear in the corner of several windows in one corner of the home. One that comes up from the floor on the second floor and goes to the corner of the window. The other starts on the same side of the window and goes up towards the ceiling. I should mention there is an almost identical crack on the outside of the window in the brick.

Also, all around the outside of the home, which is cinder block, I'm getting horizontal cracks, all hairline. I am showing two stairstep cracks in the foundation, one about 3/16" wide from one corner of a block window, another stairstep crack starts at the other corner of that window but is not wide.

I'm really trying to determine the extent of the damage. The fact that the cracks are reappearing through the crappy patch jobs tell me that the problem is ongoing, that it may have been settling at one time but the issue continues.  Also, the fact that the cracks have been patched tells me the owner knew about the issues and disclosed "no" for any known foundational issues.  I know people will say to get a structural engineer, which I plan to, just trying to get some more input before. I'd also like to add that the previous owner is a realtor and probably knows how to hide certain issues. Thanks!


texts: What tool can I use to cut wall studs straight?

texts:
Is there a hand tool (not power) that can be used to facilitate straight (or angled) cutting of wall studs?

Something similar to this Miter Box, but for larger/heavier woods, such as 2x4 or 2x6 wall studs.


texts:
I live in an apartment with a flatmate, in Ontario, Canada. I have a Honeywell Warm Mist Top Fill Humidifier (HWM-340BC from Canadian Tire, I imagine it should be akin to HWM-340B here: https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/easy-to-care-warm-mist-humidifier-hwm-340b.htm) and I use it because I have breathing difficulty at low humidity. However, it occasionally trips the breaker, and the breaker controls all the electric sockets in both bedrooms, which is not acceptable because my roommate does his work on a desktop computer.

Last time I brought this up with maintenance, and the guy basically said "Plug it into one of the other circuits" because apparently the bedroom circuits are all controlled by an arc-fault circuit (as mandated in new apartments by Canadian building guidelines)? I have to flick the breaker to reset it, and the breaker has a TEST button on it. The other breakers have stickers on them that say Schneider so I'm inclined to believe this one is made by Schneider as well.

Is there an easy fix wherein I can use my humidifier? I.e. a power surge power bar or something?


texts: Should I install vapor barrier over XPS insulation panels?

texts:
Redoing a bathroom where one of the shower walls is an exterior wall. Framing is done with 2x6 and I would like to replace the current insulation pictured with XPS foam board. Due to my location, the best I can get my hands on is 2” thick with an R10 value.
My plan is to double up since I have room and worth it in my opinion. Main question is should I put in a vapor barrier? House was built in 1984 and no vapor barrier anywhere else.


texts: How to dispose of a large full length mirror?

texts: I have this mirror that I am replacing. This mirror was extremely heavy and fell off the wall one time and the frame is broken. The mirror/glass part is all in good shape. The edges are just sharp and it's heavy so I don't know how to dispose of it. Or where I can take it.


texts: How to wire isolation relay to create C-wire

texts:
I'm trying to follow the ecobee instructions here:
https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/articles/227874527-ecobee-thermostat-installation-with-an-isolation-relay

Which uses a wiring diagram as such:

I have this relay:

And here is the wiring diagram for the relay:

Can someone tell me how the ecobee diagram translates to the relay diagram? Which numbered terminals are going to T & T and which one is going to W1 and Transformer N? Thanks.

Edit:
Additional info about my specific setup.
This is the overview of my furnace:
https://i.imgur.com/4d6PZcL.jpg
I have the main zone which is where I want to connect the smart thermostat. I have a 2nd zone which I'm leaving alone. I have a 3rd for the water tank which I'm also leaving alone.
This is the wiring for the main zone. The T&T are in the upper right and although you can't see it there is a 3rd green wire that is currently not in use but available.
https://i.imgur.com/Ygiv3nR.jpg
main zone (aquastat) diagram:
https://i.imgur.com/Fjvl6KQ.jpg
zone 2 diagram:
https://i.imgur.com/4yzNPUA.jpg
zone 2 wiring:
https://i.imgur.com/2bt0huQ.jpg
water heater wiring:
https://i.imgur.com/yBoI9Aq.jpg
igniter:
https://i.imgur.com/UyUQV9u.jpg


texts: Using a off-the-shelf pressure gauge to measure water pressure

texts:
I want to measure water pressure around my house, I can't find any pressure gauges made for that, so I will make do.

I've found some that are for Acetylene in the right range, but they have "use no oil" written on it. Now, I don't know if that is telling me to not use oil (glicerin) in the gauge, or if that is telling me that the pressure gauge can't be used with liquids, or something else.

Any thoughts?


texts:
I've spend some time googling, but the ROI has been low.

I want to make my own ceiling lamp -- I probably remember just enough electronics from Uni to get into trouble, so I'm trying to find a good howto -- an outline of how to design and build a lamp (the electronics and lighting characteristics, not the mechanical bits) without too much trial and error.

As I look through an online catalog, I find myself questioning:

How do I choose the light type -- spot, strip...  what are the tradeoffs?
How many lumens do I need?
How do I know if a light is dimmable?
How do I connect it to my household power supply (overhead light lines, not via a socket plut).
What aren't I thinking of?

Can anyone point me to a good reference, howto, starting place?


texts: Not sure how to hook up new LED light fixture

texts:
New LED fixture has Black, White, Green (Hot, Neutral, Ground).  Box has two black wires connected to each other, two grounds connected to each other, two whites connected to existing socket and one red connected to socket.  I am guessing that the red is the hot from the switch and the 2 whites connect to the single white on the new fixture.

Does this seem right?  I haunt the Computer area, first-timer over here.


texts: I just installed a new dishwasher, replacing an old one.  Everything is working properly, but the problem I'm having is, after it has ran it's cycle and drained out and done and clean, after about 4 - 6 hours sitting there is water that has drained back into the dishwasher.


texts: I can use existing plumbing lines to make a bathroom and why the black pipes are inside the white pipes

texts: I can use existing plumbing lines to make a bathroom and why black pipes are inside white pipes


texts: How to (portably) mount warped plywood artwork on apartment drywall?

texts:
I have a 4' x 4' piece of plywood artwork (acrylic painting) that has become warped. It used to be mounted to drywall using velcro strips, but now the outward force of the warp is strong enough that "peels" off and cannot stay on the wall.

I've tried undoing the warp by wetting the concave side and flattening with weights, which only seems to work temporarily — the warp returns after a few days.

Is there a way to permanently undo the warp, so that the velcro mounting system is viable? Or is there another way to mount this that would be non-destructive to the art and reasonably portable?

One answer in Is there a way to remove the warp in plywood recommends nailing or screwing the plywood to something, but that sounds destructive and non-portable. (Another suggests leaving the plywood in the sun, but sadly I don't have a place to do that near my apartment.)


texts: Will my US 120v power tools work on UK 240v 50Hz?

texts: I may be moving to Scotland for my wife's job. Will my power tools and other basic electrical equipment (like fans and lights) work on 240v 50Hz?


texts: What kind of eye protect is appropriate for glass fibre insulation but won't fog up?

texts: I've tried various goggles (some with more ventilation than others) and resorted to swimming goggles, but they all steam up after 60 seconds at the most. Maybe I sweat too much(!), but whatever I try doesn't seem to be very effective (i.e. licking the lenses, rubbing with a potato, etc.)


texts: How to remove tile with mesh embedded in cement bed?

texts:
I am doing a bathroom remodel on a late '60s house. The bathroom tile is set on a roughly 1.5" cement bed with embedded wire mesh. I have removed a small portion with a rotary hammer with a pointed bit and a 2lb sledge.

Is this the best / safest method. I am of course wearing proper saftey gear. I am more concerned about damaging the subfloor or framing. The tile is above an unfinished basement.

I've seen where people get under the metal mesh and try to pry the tile up. Is this a better method and how would I get started with it?


texts:
Hoping someone can help me figure out whatever it was was they did.  I recently rewired a three way switch be eliminating one switch altogether and using the other as a typical switch.  Everything seems to work, no breakers have blown.

I'm simply curious to know what was going on.

At the first switch, there was a white, a black, and a black.

At the light, there were two blacks.(!)  I know that sounds odd. One of the blacks was coming from the first switch and terminating at the light.  The other black started at the other terminal of the light, spliced into the black of a nearby bedroom outlet, and then traveled on to the other switch, where it spliced yet again into a switch, and some black heading to the main panel.

The white of the outlet mentioned above was also spliced into, and that white headed away to the service panel.

At the second switch, it was wired as such: a white on a terminal, a black from the service panel on a terminal, and a black coming from the light.

The best way I can describe this is there was black coming from two directions.  What made this set up really odd is when the second switch was switched "on", all of the lights on the circuit would dim/glow, sort of as if on half power.  A plumber once mentioned he thought there was a "shared neutral", where as an electrician once mentioned there might be power going on a neutral.

Anyway, it's now gone.  When was all of this wiring done? early 1900's. I'm just curious to know what was happening.

To add one more piece of information, someone added a second  breaker to this circuit in the mid 1900's.  Thus when the breaker was tripped at one end, it was never actually tripped througout the entire circuit until the second breaker was also tripped.  Maybe this shed some light on the so called shared neutral thing.

Now that the second switch is completely gone, each breaker handles its own unique circuit, the two circuits have no communication any longer.

Regarding the original light that had two blacks, I cut the black that was not coming from the switch, I labeled it white, and I joined it to another white on that particular circuit.  It now works as a single pole switch.

Sacrificed in all of this was the ability to have a three way switch, but I did not need one, it's not in a hallway, it controlled an exterior light that is rarely used.


texts: How do I remove an old ceiling junction box to install one rated for a fan?

texts:
I want to replace a light fixture in my house (1950s construction) with a ceiling fan.  I doubt that the existing box will support a fan.
I see the big screw in the middle of the box.  Is it holding the box up?  How difficult will replacing the box be without attic access?


texts:
So a certain someone (my husband) “accidentally” walked on our newly grouted porcelain tile floor about 3 hours after it had been finished. While nothing looks disturbed, are we destined to have cracks emerge sooner rather than later?It was TEC grout, although I’m not sure which type.

Thanks for your help!


texts:
I have the following problem: my attic is mostly a crawlspace for the air-conditioning unit. And that crawlspace is full of obstacles, which makes my filter very hard to reach.
My solution is to make a second push-up hatch (or ladder hatch) that is right next to the filter, as opposed to the other side of the attic.
It would go here (view from crawl-space, looking down onto ceiling of top floor.)

Some googling makes me believe that I need to place a box, with Styrofoam lid in my ceiling.
Also, that is what resembles my existing hatch, at the other side of the attic.
I've measured the beams (joists?) to be close together, with only a 39cm gap between them.
I guess enough for a small hatch, of custom size?

Would I place my custom box on top of the timbers, or between the timbers? It looks like I need to re-route some electricity if it goes between the timbers.
There seems to be a plastic foil on the boards. Any concerns when I cut through that to create a hole?
For the hole, I guess drill 4 times, and with a reciprocating saw cut out the panel?


texts: Could I use a pressure washer with a well pump?

texts: Could I use a pressure washer on a house with a well pump? Should I be concerned about the pump running for a long period of time i.e. 4 hours? half a day while we wash the outside of the house?


texts:
This switch has 3 screws, but 4 stab-in holes on the back. Is this a 3 way or a 4 way switch? I'm having quite a bit of trouble re-wiring the new switch (got a 4 way, but wondering if this is some type of 3 way - I stupidly didn't take a photo of the wiring beforehand).

The box has 4 wires being used, plus the ground. The top two stab-ins in the photo are labeled "common" (the top right one cracked when removing the wire). Any idea what kind of switch this is?


texts: Gas stove sparks but won’t light. No gas smell either.

texts:
For some reason my gas stove will not light and I do not know why.

Some context: yesterday a flexy tube broke on the bidet. Water went everywhere so knobs were turned in a panic. A new tube was bought. Everything was fixed.

However the next day I realised the hot water had been turned off in chaos. I turned it back on. All good. But the gas stove no longer seems to work.

I should admit even after replacing the flexy tube the gas worked because we had pasta on the hob. So some time between the pasta being made and now the gas has stopped working.

I have cleaned the stove but all i hear when i turn the dial is the clicking sound. Since it worked last night but not now i feel the solution would be something simple.

Any ideas before I resort to calling a handyman?

here are pictures of all dials and handles in my apartment.

https://ibb.co/buJEZw
https://ibb.co/hYDRgb
https://ibb.co/bAVTuw
https://ibb.co/nFrZZw
https://ibb.co/bxORgb


texts:
So I am pouring some footings for a deck I am building and my current plan is to dig a hole that is 18" wide and 18" deep.  I'm then going to suspend a sonotube about 6 inches above the bottom (using a scrap wood frame).

My idea is to pour concrete in through the sonotube and have it splay out at the bottom, but once the concrete fills the bottom of the hole up to the sonotube, that it stop filling the hole.

I'm not sure if that was confusing or not, so I drew a crude picture.  The blue line is as high as I want the concrete to go in the hole.  The red "X"s should be empty space in the hole and the sonotube in the center should be filled with concrete.

My question:  If i take this approach will the concrete fill in as I have drawn in the picture, or will the concrete in the sonotube keep pouring out and fill the hole all the way to the top?


texts: Using an older 200A breaker panel on a 60A feeder circuit from house?

texts:
I'm in the planning stages of a new workshop/shed build. I plan to run a 60A ciruit from the main panel in the house to a subpanel in the shed.

I recently picked up a used Challenger QM322200 200A breaker panel with about a dozen circuit breakers for a song. Can I use this panel as is, with the stock 200A main breaker as a master shut-off? (I'd relabel the panel as 60A).

If no, where can I find a 60A main breaker to swap into the panel?

Thanks for your help.

This is the label on the panel:


texts: Mold in utility closet - how bad does it look?

texts:
I'm a buyer looking to soon close on a highrise condo, built in 2005.

I did an home inspection today and the inspector reported that the water heater doesn't work & leaking, and there's a mold around the heater in the utility closet.

Looking for a second opinion here for how bad the damage look and if it's required for me to get a professional to clean it up. Can't really tell how serious it is based on the inspector responses.

Is mold around water heaters is a common issue and not that serious?


texts:
My circa 1920 house is one story, solid brick from the footings in the basement to the roof.  Three layer thick up to the first floor joists, then two layers to the roof.  The basement windows are all look like this (through the three layer portion of the wall).  Basically a hole through the wall lined with 2x8s:

There does not appear to be any sort of lintel, apart from the three arched courses of brick.

I want to install more functional windows.  The question then is:  Can I remove all the wooden parts, window and frame, or is the frame contribute to the wall structure?  I would leave the wooden arch (arrow) used to square off the opening. It makes a big difference in the dimensions of the windows I would order...


texts: How can I remove faux brick from a kitchen wall?

texts:
My kitchen has these fake bricks placed over the drywall on the walls around the cabinets.

My question is, is there a way to remove just the bricks without completely tearing down the cabinets and drywall and starting from scratch?


texts: Which to install first...closet doors or carpet?

texts: We are redecorating my son's bedroom. This includes converting the large bi-fold closet doors to sliding doors. We have also pulled up the carpet and are installing new carpet and padding. My question is if it is better to install the carpet first or the new closet doors?


texts: What voltage adapter do I need for a 5 meter 5050 LED strip?

texts:
I have a 5050 5 meter LED strip and it requires an AC/DC adapter to run the full strip.  I was told that I needed a 2A adapter, but I went to electronic store to buy an end adapter and they said this adapter was not powerful enough to run this strip and that it requires a 6 amp. I want maximum light without any concern of over heating.

Which is right?


texts: Adjustable door threshold bottomed out and grouted in place

texts:
Just bought house. Previous owners did some bad renovations by themselves. I noticed lots of bugs coming in. Figured out the wooden kitchen/garage adjustable door threshold was screwed down all the way. Got down there to raise it and realized when they did kitchen tile, they mortared against the threshold, in it's tightened down position. The grout line is about 1/4 inch wide, all along the threshold.
Then they filled the adjustable screw head with grout so nobody could adjust it up and break the grout line/threshold connection. Except the screw closest to hinge, it doesn't have grout in it, and it's raised flush against the door bottom like it's supposed to be. Then the other three are all tightened down.
I don't know if you're supposed to tile flush to the threshold edge or grouting to the edge is better, if they did it wrong or not.
I tried scratching the screw head grout with a screwdriver and a dental tool but nothing came off. Any ideas for that, short of demolishing it to get it out?
Would using a dremel and thin cutting wheel break the grout cleanly along threshold? Or will it break up the 1/4 channel and I'll have to re-grout that part, hoping to match the color? I've never grouted before and don't really want to get into it. I'm terrible at painting and caulking so probably won't do well with grouting.
Or any other ideas? Thanks!


texts: Replaced Thermostat, Furnace worked for 1 cycle now blows cold

texts:
Hello I just replaced my old White-Rodgers thermostat because it just wasn't working consistently  (sometimes it would turn on the furnace, but mostly it wouldn't).   I swapped it with a White-Rodgers Sensi thermostat.

Once I replaced the thermostat, the furnace turned immediately upon adjusting the thermostat to do so.  (I'm thinking job well done right now)

Once the home reached it's target temperature, I felt cold air blowing.  The furnace no longer blows hot air.  Something happened while the furnace was running or about the time it got to it's stated temp that it just quite blowing hot air.   Now it will not blow warm at all.   Any ideas where to start?   I'm going to replace the filter today and see if the Pilot is still lit, but I've not gone up in the attic yet.

The furnace is one without a pilot, it has an auto-ignition if that matters.


texts: Installing Porcelain tile over linoleum floor

texts:
I'm considering installing porcelain tile over an existing linoleum floor.  I've had several contractors come out and they confirmed it would be fine to do and suggested it (I know many posts recommend not doing it, but I am okay with taking that risk).  Without getting into specifics, floor details, etc. I plan on putting hardie backerboard over the linoleum and screwing it into place.  I would like to use a glue/adhesive as well to attach the backerboard to the linoleum since I won't be using thinset between it.  Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.
Dan


texts:
I have had a leak in my flat. It came from my ceiling (from the upstairs neighbours), and went down my wooden floor. It was not gushing, but dripping for about two days.

The surveyor came and with his tools said that there was water below the wooden floor (engineered floor). That probably went down the underlay and underfloor (it is concrete beneath, I am ground floor).

His solution is to remove the wooden floor, underlay and underfloor from the affected area, let it dry for three weeks with machines, and then install a new wooden floor.

This is costly and disruptive as me and my family will have to find a new accomodation for about a month.
Is there a better/easier solution? Can we remove the water/moisture without removing the wooden floor?


texts: Why would a speaker make a clicking noise after ~1 hour even when disconnected?

texts:
I recently purchased a pair of Swan T-200c speakers. They sound amazing, but after roughly an hour of use they emit a clicking noise that increasing in volume. This persists after I unplug the audio connection from my laptop, so at this point I've assumed the problem is with the speakers themselves.

The company that sold them to me offered to replace but also suggested a few things to try first. I have so far:

Purchased a much nicer power strip, one with power filtration (my old strips were 10+ years old and from before my undergrad days, read: not great).
Moved my setup away from my normal desktop area where I was nearby the tv and washer and dryer into a room where it's the only set of electronics other than the lamp above me.
Monkeyed with the positioning.
Made sure all the cords are fully in.
Fiddled with the switches on the back of the master speaker.

The only thing I havent tried was putting a ferrite core around my power leads. The power cords themselves seem reasonably shielded so I'm not sure how much this would help.

I did just get a copy of the owners manual (new product, distributor just received it from manufacturer), but I havent taken a deep dive into it.

I am at the limit of my knowledge. Is there anything else someone can suggest or do you think it's time I spent the money to send it back. I'd hate to give up an otherwise excellent set of speakers if I can adjust something at home.


texts: Replacing pendant but there are extra live wires

texts:
I was going to replace a pendant light. But during removal of the old one I've come across this wiring which don't really understand.
The thick brown one on the left is the live wire which is connected to the switch. Along with the blue neutral this is where the light was connected.
The three thin brown wires in the middle are live (regardless of the switch).
What are these for and what should I do with them when I connect my new pendant fixture which doesn't have connectors for these.


texts: How do I get this shower head holder off the wall?

texts:
Please see images below. The whole unit is loose and needs tightening but I have no idea on how I remove it ? Can anyone help?
I’ve inserted a screw driver into the small hole and was advised that this should come off but nothing happens when I put the screwdriver in.
Thanks


texts:
Existing appliances (https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvKvm.jpg)
I bought a home this year and it was built in 1978. There was no disclosure statement for the house so I have no knowledge of its history or anything else. It has a heat pump with an auxiliary wood stove connected via ductwork. The wood stove has two blowers (draft and circulator). I’m using it for the second time this year and have a couple questions for anyone who might be able to answer.
1. Will the heat pump and associated thermostat automatically come on when it detects heat from the wood stove? How should the thermostat be set (Off, Heat, Fan on, Fan auto)?
2. When the wood stove is heated and blowers running, heat is circulating to the house but there is also a slight odor of wood smoke. How can I be sure the fire box is sealed off from the surrounding area that collects and circulates heated air?
I would greatly appreciate any advice or help. Thank you.


texts: Why am I getting hum and lights dimming with a new electric tankless water heater?

texts:
So, I just installed an electric water heater and I'm getting a light hum from the water heater and the breaker panel. It's also dimming some lights.. unevenly. It seems to be more noticeable when the hot water is cracked, but it's annoying, because I've checked everything so many times now. I've contacted the power company an an electrician to come out next week, but any other ideas?

200 AMP service.
Murray breaker box.
New Murray breakers (2 x double pole 40 AMP).
8 Guage Stranded Romex (40' run).
Rheem RTEX 18.

All connections good and tight.
Small 600sqft house, 2 people, not much load otherwise.
Cleaned bus bars.
Breakers not hot, not loose.
Set to 110 degrees.

I've tested breakers and power at the WH. Everything appears to be fine.. However, going back to the idea of the problem being apparent with lower water, I checked the heating elements and noticed that when the hot water is on low, one element is on. When it's medium, the second element engages at 120, and at full the second element is at 240. Could the on/off, uneven volts be part of the problem? Is there a way to remedy this?

Any ideas?


texts:
The brick around our fireplace looks dingy. The fireplace used to be wood burning but was converted to gas by the previous owner about 10 years ago (i think).

I would like to clean it. The problem is that the brick is textured. Everything that I've found so far (every video or article) cleans smooth brick. The general solutions I'm finding are dish soap, borax, salt, baking soda, ammonia ... etc with a stiff nylon brush.

How do clean the nooks and crannies of the textured brick without using a pressure washer indoors?


texts: How can I waterproof a shower wall after a repair?

texts: I have a small pipe leak in the shower wall, I need to chisel away the plaster and waterproofing to repair the pipe. Can I just waterproof that small area after doing the repair.


texts: Can I add cement glue and sand into my concrete mix to repair my cenent garden statue?

texts: I have a leopard concrete garden statue that was given to me by my neighbor that has a broken foot and log. I want to repair it and paint it. It also has been weather eroded so I need to recover it as well. I was wondering if I could mix up concrete, add sand and concrete glue in the mix? I know I will have to put concrete glue to the top of the statue to help bond the mix to it. I hope someone can answer my question.


texts: Water Heater - Discharge Pipe Goes Upward, How To Address

texts:
My tankless water heater (located in the basement) has the TPR valve discharge pipe traveling upwards, which is against code, and it terminates into the soil outside the house.

What is the best way to rectify this?

Other Notes: No sump pump, no floor drain. In California.

It seems like a 5 gallon bucket wouldn’t be capable of handling the flow, so I’d still like to have it go outside, but that doesn’t seem possible without having the piping go upward at some point (which is against code). Installing a floor drain seems excessive (and expensive).


texts: Is the open grate in the ceiling between my garage and attic necessary?

texts:
I have a plastic grate in the ceiling of my garage that simply provides airflow between the garage and the attic.  Due to the layout of my garage, my workbench is almost directly beneath this grate.  During the majority of the year, the heat here in Florida makes my attic very warm and this warm air continually flows down through the grate, making even the most simple workbench work a sweaty affair.  Over the summer, it literally feels like you're working under a giant hair dryer!

My question is, do I even need this grate or can I just replace it with drywall?

Please note that my garage is NOT air conditioned and we don't park our cars in there.  I appreciate any feedback!

-Steve M
Orlando, FL


texts: Is it possible to install a pump to fix a slow drain?

texts: We have a combination shower/tub enclosure in our bathroom here in Norway. The floor drain in our bathroom was placed in a very unfortunate location, such that the water draining from the tub/shower must travel nearly horizontally about 1 meter before it gets to the drain. This incline is too shallow for proper drainage to occur. Due to tight spacing, moving the shower enclosure is not an option. Moving the floor drain would involve a tremendous expense and hassle (breaking up the floor, redoing the entire electric tile heating system etc). What I'm hoping to find is some kind of pump I can place inbetween the shower drain and the floor drain in the space underneath the tub. This pump would sense when water came in and turn on automatically to assist the drainage, then turn off when it had pulled all or most of the water through. Does such a thing exist?