texts:
Reference picture below.

The electrical boxes for the switches can be adjusted in/out for different thickness of drywall.

I want to run conduit from the 2-gang switch box though the top-plate and into the attic for about 3 feet. The reason is so that I can come back later and run NM cable to the switch box. The conduit must allow the box to be adjusted in/out to meet the thickness of the drywall or other wall covering.

Does the NEC allow this?
If so, what options are available?

Revision:

I am undecided on the wall covering at this point. At least 5/8 Type X Drywall. Had considered maybe 2 x 5/8 Type X Drywall for sound.

The box is Arlington Industries FA102:


texts:
Short form question: Replacing bricks of a brick stair-case (leading to house), what kind of concrete to use?

Full story:
The staircase leading to my house (from outside) had some broken bricks.  The biggest issue was the rail - as the bricks to which it is fitted came loose, the rail was no longer stable.
Since than, I used chizzle+hammer to remove the broken bricks and concrete that was holding them.  Most of the staircase is intact - but about 20 bricks from various sections of the stair-case were removed.

My next step, I think, is to buy some new bricks and concrete.  Home-Depot or Lowes are the two stores I normally would get these in.

My question is: What kind of concrete should I get?  There seem to be different types, my prime concern is that it holds well.  A long time ago I replaced one brick in same stairs, and this time I took it out, as the concrete didn't seem to hold. (It is very possible I messed up installation)

I'd like to do this myself due to budgeting issues, and I do not have any tools that a construction person might have.


texts: what type R value insulation for 960 sq.ft. garage

texts: I need to insulate a brand new 960 sq.ft. garage, 30 feet deep and 32 feet wide. planning on putting a house furnace w/central air. How should I go about insulating it, what R values where? I live in St. Louis, Mo.


texts: Is it a bad idea to drill a hole through this door frame to pass wires?

texts:
I want to pass my ethernet, speaker and sub wires into my newly built media/bar cabinet, but I hate having to pass them under the door, so I'd like to drill a hole as shown by the green circle in the image.

Bad idea?


texts: I am experiencing a large leak around my gutter. I got the gutter recently replaced so it’s not the gutter itself. From the picture you can see there’s a large dark spot behind the gutter on the corner. It was clearly caulked a lot before we moved in. That is where the leaking is coming from. If a gutter replacement isn’t fixing that, is that a job for a siding/roofing company? Let me know what my next move should be. Thanks.


texts: What is a propane burner with multiple torches called?

texts: If you watch Mythbusters, you'll notice they have a propane burner with a bunch of nozzles at different angles.  What is this called?  I would like to make or purchase one for melting metal (in a crucible of course), such as Aluminum.


texts: How do I fill a gap between my hearth and the hardwood frame around it?

texts: What type of caulk or sealant should I use to fill a space on my fireplace hearth between the slate & the wood frame that surrounds it. The hardwood floor was refinished, but the wood framing around the fireplace hearth needed to be replaced. Afterwards, there was a gap between the new oak wood frame and the slate hearth.  The hearth seems to have some kind of concrete or bonding material holding the slate pieces together.


texts:
I just purchased a 50-year-old condo. I pulled up the carpet and found the second floor to be a concrete slab. There are thin cracks in areas and a small pit in one area.  What are my options for resolving/minimizing cracking.

Rhino Crack Locks
Tear it all out and start over, my least desirable option
Just fill in the cracks and leave it.

There are no cracks in the walls etc., it's not a foundation issue.


texts: Wood bit vs Forstener bit for cam connector holes

texts:
I am wanting to fix my MDF cabinet together with cam dowels and connectors (I rent, so for ease of moving I want the option to flatpack. Of course I will glue up when I get somewhere permanent, don't moan at me :-P).

I have bought the following:

Rimless Cam Connector - Min Panel Thickness 12mm
Self Drive Dowel - Cam Centre/Pin Length 34mm
12mm wood drill bit such as that pictured below

I have been doing a test piece to connect 2 scrap pieces together and have been coming up against a bit of an issue...

My MDF is 18mm thick, the quoted length of the cam connectors is 10mm with the locking centre being quoted as 6mm, so in theory I should be able to drill in with my drill bit and have everything line up ok as shown in my diagram below...

However... I have been finding that the point of the drill bit is rather long and appears to be either poking through the other side of my MDF, or at least making a small bulge.

Is there anything I can do to avoid this? Would a forstener bit be a better option for this job?

UPDATE
So after a few more tests, drilling in slowly and checking the fit I was still frustrated and decided to actually measure the length of the point on the drill bit... It appears the point is greater than 4mm, so of course it is poking out of the other side! Would a forstener bit's point be less dramatic as to help me with my issue here?


texts: I recently purchased a new place to me. We have a large horse barn that we pipe FM music to the horses. Last weekend I was in the shop attached to the arena and stalls after dark turned the shop lights on and heard total static on the speakers (they were turned up for the 4th fireworks) all 3 circuits in the shop have 3-4 2 tube 4' T 8 fixtures. I did turn them all off and then each one on. All 3 circuits created the problem. I checked the ground to neutral voltage and it is .129v  there is a local ground rod as this is a sub from the house, the ground buss is isolated from the neutral and I tightened everything in hopes it was a bad connection no change. Mid week I added a RFI Filter to the panel. The noise is still there on all 3 circuits, no problems with the 2 HID arena light circuits. Tried a high end Kenwood receiver and amp and still have the noise, not 60hz more like static. Has any one run into this problem and have a fix? There are step up transformers going to the speakers and then step down that kills our neighbors ham radio. But have never run into a problem quite like this. Today I checked both TAC rooms and the isle lights all fluorescent also but no noise on those all fed from the same panel. Update, last night I checked several of the  fixtures to verify the ballast they were residential class b not commercial. Maybe tonight I will move the breakers all to L1 then L2 to see if this makes a difference unless any one has a better idea. I did change the circuits to L1 still have the problem. Moved all 3 to L2 noise still there. Tonight I checked the middle and 3rd level lights to double check grounds and voltage from ground to neutral, I did change 2 of the lamps on 1 fixture as the ends were getting a bit dark, still no change all 3 of the circuits still cause the noise, All 6 of the ballast are class B. Only 3 more fixtures to check but will have to wait until tomorrow as I have to put a ladder in our tractor and have the Wife lift me up... I hate doing this and am open to other options. Any Ideas?


texts: Particular wood filler suitable for oil finish?

texts:
I'm going to try doing an oil finish for the first time. I'm going to try Minwax Antique Oil Finish: http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/specialty-finishes/minwax-antique-oil-finish

The wood I'm working with is reclaimed finger-jointed tropical hardwood. I'm not looking for a pristine finish (as it's somewhat rustic/salvaged to begin with) but I would like to fill some of the joints that opened up between various pieces of the finger jointed wood...mostly along the grain.

Is there a particular type of wood filler I should use that won't 'pop out' visually when I apply the oil finish? I will be sanding it, if that matters, so it should be a sandable filler as well.


texts: Shower head releases water every time the toilet is flushed

texts:
I installed a new bathroom with a shower (no tub). The shower head releases water every time the toilet is flushed, even though he mixing valve for the shower is off.

The bathroom area was an old porch with a concrete floor, so the water lines for the bathroom run:

to the toilet
to the future bath sink
up a wall into a ceiling bulkhead
down to the mixing valve
up to the shower head

When I turn the hot water supply off, the problem goes away.


texts: Wiring for Dimmable Security (motion detector) Floods

texts:
I'd like my 2 sets of outdoor security lights to be dimmable (in all settings) from a single switch.

The electrician said he ran one (always on) power line for the motion detectors and another line for the 2 sets of floods to a dimmer switch.  We have tried both standard and LED dimmable floods, but it is not working (the lights don't dim and sometimes won't turn on at all).

With a standard switch in place, everything works as expected without dimming of course.

Is it possible to do this? Does anyone have a known-good wiring/switch scheme for this scenario?

Thank you


texts: Do I need to glue 2x4 supports for an apron sink?

texts:
I am replacing an undermount sink with an apron sink. I modified my cabinet and built a support for the apron sink, however I forgot to use glue on the 2X4's and just have them screwed together and to the cabinet vs using glue and screws. Is this OK or should I unscrew everything, add glue, and screw it back together? I am installing a Kholer 5826 sink if it matters.
Image of my supports:


texts: Smell like fish oil coming from cupboard with hot water tank

texts:
Somebody has said there is a smell like fish oil coming from her hot press (not sure if the term 'hot press' is used worldwide: the airing cupboard / the cupboard with the hot water tank in).

Her house doesn't have mains gas.

She's checked for anything visible that it could be -- no fish oil tablets in pockets of clothes; nothing like that.

What might this be?

And how might this be dealt with?

(Firstly, I want to check that it's not likely to be some kind of poisonous gas or something. And secondly whatever it is, to try and sort it, to improve the space -- so she can use the cupboard.)


texts:
Good morning, I have a mantle mount that I would like to install over the fire place, currently, I have wood paneling over the brick, I want to install to the wood, but I cant seem to locate,
the studs, the brick seems to be approx 4 to 5 inches behind, any ideas on the proper way to install without, poking a bunch of holes to search? Thank you in advance!


texts: How to remove this flow restrictor in hansgrohe hand shower?

texts: I have a hand shower which has a flow restrictor in it. I've found other flow restrictors easier to remove than this one. The metal tabs seem to bite into the plastic pretty hard (making it probably easy to insert, but hard to remove). There is also nowhere really good to grip with pliers. Any ideas?


texts: Is it okay to glue mirror cabinet to tiles ? (IKEA LILLÅNGEN)

texts:
I want to buy something like this LILLÅNGEN Mirror cabinet with 1 door:

The problem is that I don't have permissions of owner to drill through tiles. Can you advise me, is safe to glue this kind of cabinet to tiles or not? And if is safe, which glue would you use?


texts: Kenmore Water Heater Burner Assembly - Error Code - 6 Flashes

texts: My Kenmore water heater stopped heating the water.  The code flashing (6 lights) indicated a problem with the burner assembly.  I ordered a new burner assembly, installed it successfully and the water heater started working again.  However, after about 15 minutes of heating up the water, it stopped and the same code started flashing again.  Any ideas?


texts:
I read an article on leach fields that recommended that a "washing machine filter" be used to prevent lint from getting into the septic system.

What is that? The portal for my washing machine effluent is just a plastic fitting about an inch in diameter that is mounted in the wall facing up. It looks like a hose screws into it.


texts: What should I consider regarding LAN wiring before building a house?

texts:
I am planning a small house (4 rooms, 2 floors, no basement, no attic, 120 sq.meters) and I want to run a lot of LAN cables throughout because of poor WiFi experiences in my apartment.

Because the house will be built according to my wishes (including electrical plans), I can pretty much choose whatever I want. But ... what do I want?

I want to provide at least 2 LAN sockets in each room, plus some more in the living room and underneath the staircase for central infrastructure (DSL modem, NAS, WiFi, media center). I will also have at least 2 desktop computers, three audio devices, and a handful of wireless devices (laptop, smartphones). Clearly, a regular DSL modem with 4 LAN ports and WiFi won't be enough.

I have no idea what kind of Internet consumption and local network usage a family of 4 would have many years from now, and this is the only chance I'll get to make smart preparations.

What considerations should I include in my network planning?

I guess it would be smart to have a switch, right? I'd place it under the staircase along with the DSL modem, WiFi AP, NAS, and other central headless equipment.
Would a patch panel be useful, or is that only used in large office buildings?
Is it stupid to plan 2 LAN sockets per room? I figure 1 is not enough, but 4 is too expensive.
What's the recommended minimum distance between electrical and LAN cabling? We don't build using "studs" in Europe (we mostly use bricks), so an actual measurement would be helpful.
What am I forgetting?? There's always something that you only learn from bitter experience. I'd like a head start.

My goal is not a show-and-tell geek project. It needs to be reasonably affordable but also future-proof for the next 10-25 years as best as possible without introducing fiber or some such.


texts: Using wire mesh on yard gate for exclusion

texts:
I want to put some quarter-inch wire mesh on the hinge side of a yard gate to exclude rabbits from entering the yard. The solution that I'm looking for is something that would exclude rabbits. So far I've only considered the quarter-inch wire mesh that you get from hardware store in rolls. If there's another solution for rabbit exclusion I'm interested in that as well.
I've prototyped where the mesh would go by opening the gate as wide as it will go that it would stretch the mesh to its full extend and then taped some paper on the gate. I then moved the gate to the full extent in the other direction to see how the mesh would buckle when it was compressed. You can see these in the images.
From the paper prototype it looks like the wire mesh might be a problem in restricting the opening and closing of the gate. What are the solutions to this? Other materials that would work? Other methods of creating an exclusion at that point?
Update: Added an image showing the gap as 1 3/8" wide. Rabbits get through that easily.


texts: Removing sand-blasting residue from window glass

texts: I had some surface paint removed from my patio floor and some of the sand ended up on the surface of the window near by. It almost looks like it stuck to the glass. Is there any nice way to remove these sand particles without damaging the glass surface?


texts: Water line won't stay connected to aftermarket freezer port

texts:
We have a Whirlpool model ET1MHKXMT01.  Apparently an aftermarket top freezer icemaker was installed in unit and had been working fine for years.

At some point moving the fridge appears to have caused the a line that runs into the back of the ice maker on the freezer to disconnect, possibly break.  We tried to reconnect it but the line keeps popping out now whenever the ice maker pulls water.  A repair guy told me there is some clip missing he can't find anywhere.

I called a parts for whirlpool but hey said the original does not show these parts.

I wondering if that port is part of the fridge or the icemaker?  Note a metal ring inside the water line.
wondering if these are factory or aftermarket and what fix i can make?  do most after market ice makers come with this hardware?

Below are images of after market ice makers.  Are we missing any of these parts. Is this a repair we can do from the back?

My water line end looks like this (NOT ACTUAL):

updated port pic. waiting on better line pic


texts: Due diligence preventing leaks between condos

texts:
I wish to expand the size of my bathroom in my condo and will require the approval of my condo association.  Currently, all bathrooms in the building are stacked vertically - so if a leak occurs it will leak into another bathroom.  If I take a portion of the adjoining closet then any future leak could occur into the dry closet below.

Besides installing a floor drain and correctly pitching the floor. Are there techniques that can be used to direct a future leak towards the existing bathroom area?

Are there secondary barriers that can installed in between the units to direct leaks?

What due diligence can I present to the Condo Association to show I am doing everything possible to minimize any impact of future leaks?


texts: How to Fix Flickering Lamp (That Stops Flickering When I Unscrew and Rescrew)

texts:
I just bought a set of two lamps (https://www.wayfair.com/lighting/pdp/alcott-hill-amell-2539-table-lamp-set-w003190357.html). The lamps have   settings for off, low light, medium light, and high light which can be changed by just touching the base of the lamp.
I put 60 Hz LED bulbs in both lamps. One of the lamps starts to strobe more and more the brighter I turn up the light on it, as if the Hz drops as I turn up the brightness. I use the term strobing because the flashing occurs at a steady pace, not like erratic flickering.
The other lamp works fine with the same light bulb. I've tried multiple new bulbs and this happens every time. The weird thing is the LED bulb stays steady when I leave the lamp on, unscrew the bulb, and screw it back in. Now I have a morning routine of turning on the lamp, unscrewing and re-screwing the bulb and it works correctly all day until I turn it off and back on.
I don't want to have to do this every time I turn the light on, so I was hoping someone on here might have experienced the same thing and can point me in the right direction for how to fix it.
The lamps now seem to be sold out so I don't think I'll end up getting a replacement but I'm trying that avenue as well.


texts: What would cause water to flow around the toilet flange where the concrete is?

texts:
My toilet was leaking around the bottom so I assumed that it needed a wax ring. However when I removed the toilet, after emptying the water,  I noticed that water keeps coming up around the flange.

What causes this and how can I fix it?


texts: How can I edge concrete without an edge trowel?

texts:
How can I make a concrete floor (also using dry shake color hardener) with a proper edge, without using an edge trowel?

In Brazil I cannot find an edge trowel anywhere, so I would like to know if there is some alternative to it. Maybe bending the edge of a regular trowel (how to make it rounded though?), or using some other tool or method.

Normally there isn't much care about the edging here and it usually ends up flush with the wall or the other floor. Even the spaces for dilation are usually made afterwards with circular saw and a concrete cutting disc.


texts: Joining two areas of tongue and groove flooring in a room - disguising the join

texts:
I have an old 1960's tongue and groove floor that, after some renovations (removing an internal half-height wall), will be joining (butt end-to-end) some new tongue and groove (85mm x 22mm matai)

I had initially hoped to match the old/new board widths exactly and feather in some of the new pieces in to reduce the visual impact of the join, but this is proving to be difficult as although the boards are the same width, the original installers in the 1960's were very inconsistent with their cramping and there are (sometimes quite large) inconsistent gaps moving the ends of the boards out of alignment fairly quickly.

I thinking about routing out a 30m or 40mm wide channel about 6mm deep cross-wise along the join (ie, evenly across the ends of the old/new lengths) and dropping in a piece of contrasting wood to accentuate the join rather than hide it.

This obviously raises concerns about expansion.

Is this likely to be a problem?

(To be clear, I was going to use new matai for the cross piece insert and  I'm not at all concerned about the difference in wood color between the new and old matai - after sanding/finishing and a decade of aging I imagine they will look fairly similar. I'm just not a huge fan of the straight-line room-wide butt join running the full width of the room - functionally it's fine, but looks a bit a naff. By putting the cross piece in I'm thinking about making it look more like a feature/ slightly more intentional rather than the constraint that it is)


texts:
I'm installing a flood lamp on my outdoor garage. So, I went to take look at the junction box, and to my surprise, it appears oddly filled:

Filled to the point where I almost feel as though it's too filled.

The junction box is 4x4x2 1/2. There's at least from what I can count 4 different circuits running out there:

1) washer + misc outlets in garage

2) dryer

3) garage lights (outdoor)

4) garage lights indoor + garage opener

The house was built in the 1980's - I live in the Pacific Northwest (specifically, Washington State).

I do have a 5x5 that I purchased that I could replace it with, but I wasn't sure if I should "extend it" or just "replace it" entirely, which I guess would be the second half of my question.

I'm adding the flood lamp to the same circuit as the rest of the outdoor garage lights.


texts: Hi it is the first time for me to woodwork.. I would like to know which is the best and resistant wood to built a patio set. I'd like two chairs, small table and umbrella.


texts: How to make an internal hinged door harder to open

texts: I have a one and half year old who often opens the internal hinged door which would give him access to the stairs and outside. The door is nonlockable and we wouldn't want to it be lockable. Its second latch (?)- hidden metal thing part of doors mechanism that joins the door to side that keeps a door shut- is broken.


texts:
I have some hooks that has a glued surfaced attached to it. They look like this,

Image Courtesy: www.dhgate.com

I bought a lot of them. Like 50-60. I used them almost everywhere. Mostly in kitchen. The problem is my kitchen wall is has tiles on it. Its full tiles. After using 2-1 weeks some of them has fallen off the wall. After that each day 1 or 2 hooks fall. Now I have only 2 hooks left there!

2-3 days ago, I bought Silicone Sealant to attach them again. The shopkeeper told its the strongest glue that sticks to glass or tiles. But some how they dont work on my hooks and tile.

Could you tell me what type of glue should I use to stick them on tiles wall?  I know the original glue comes with hooks sticks very well on wooden platform. But  here my platform is tiles.


texts: I am planning on installing floating laminate flooring in my hallway among other places in my house. I wanted to take out the tile on the outside of this small bathroom and I wanted to wait to replace the tile flooring in my bathroom until I could replace the toilet, vanity and molding inside the bathroom at the same time. I am not sure how thick this tile is but it seems to be fairly sturdy. I was wondering, is it possible for me to make a cut in this tile at the door jamb where the laminate transition will go and cleanly take out all the tile outside of the bathroom while leaving all the tile inside the bathroom without chipping it? Thank you in advance.


texts: Seeking a way to operate a Laundry Dryer when I'm not using my Kitchen Stove/Oven

texts: I want to use a Clothes Dryer in my Apartment, but it requires a 240 volt plug.  The only place that has such a plug is the Kitchen Stove/Oven.  Is there a splitter available (or could I make one) so I can roll the Dryer into the Kitchen and use the Dryer in the Evening when I am not using the Stove/Oven without having to pull the stove out and unplug it, to plug in the Dryer?  Then I could put the 220 volt plug socket on the wall above the Stove for easy access to plug in the Dryer?


texts:
Moved into a 1960s home recently, and had a fridge deliverd. The Lowe's delivery guys were perplexed, but spent about 15 minutes looking for a valve to turn the water on for the fridge, but were ultimately unsuccessful. Obviously there is no vale box where the fridge cutout is.

The fridge is on the opposite side of the kitchen as the sink, with no bathroom nearby. I poked a small hole in the wall where the water line pokes out, and poked my cell phone around and took pictures. All I can tell is the water line goes upstairs, but I could not see exactly where.

I checked both bathrooms upstairs and there is no 1/4 inch flexible piping connected under either, so ultimately I am unable to easily see where the existing water line goes.

Any ideas where else it could be connected to, or where a valve may be?

(FYI, the home was built in the mid 1960s, and was an investor flip, so we have zero contact with the last people who actually lived in the home).


texts: Can you pull air from an unfinished attic into a closet with a clothes dryer?

texts:
I have a closet with a electric modern clothes dryer in it. It has nice cabinet doors and I think it is pretty air tight when the doors are shut. I don't really want to get louvered doors so as not to ruin the look of the space, but I worry about there being a lack of air for the dryer in the space.
I am fairly sure I don't want to pull air in from outside, but what about pulling air in from the attic perhaps through an air filter like a furnace might from the interior space?

If not, I am open to other solution - my only other thought is to install something like this on the wall framing in the laundry area.

I'm in California if that matters.


texts: Masonry screws won't engage in brick or mortar?

texts: I'm trying to put a railing on my back porch but my tapcon masonry screws will not stay in the brick or stay in the mortar. Never catches, just goes in.


texts: How deep of concrete base do I need for a 35 foot

texts: I have a 35 foot aluminum light pole that has 4 bolts holes in the base of the pole. I need to know how deep and wide should I pour the concrete into the ground. I'm not going to use the light pole for a light, I'm recycling it to make a flag pole. The base bolts holes are 8 inches apart in a square. The base bolts measure 11.5 inches diagonally. I want to be able to fly two flags from the pole and I want to make sure that I have enough concrete in the ground to support the pole, two flags, high winds, ect. I live in western Kentucky.


texts:
I have an expensive trash can whose plastic hinge cracked. Is there any way to restore it to its former strength? In my experience, epoxies do not stand the test of time for this sort of thing, especially with plastics. I was thinking that there is probably some way to weld the pieces together. Has anyone here done this?

UPDATE: Following Chris' advice, I used a soldering iron to melt the pieces together. I also sunk a piece of wire into the joint for added strength. We'll see how it holds up!


texts: Should I insulate the exterior foundation wall above grade or insulate the interior basement wall?

texts: An existing basement wall is not insulated on either side. Humidity inside is causing significant sweating on the cold wall in the winter months. Outside, the top 4 feet of wall are exposed above the ground. I am less interested in insulating for energy savings and more interested in avoiding the condensation problem as the basement space is actually a garage. Will I solve the condensation problem by insulating only the outside wall to a depth of about 2 feet below grade. If not, then what is the best way to insulate the inside with a proper vapour barrier to isolate the humid air from the cold wall?


texts: How to double up an existing single beam without disturbing the structure?

texts:
I am not a carpenter, so please forgive me if I use some terminology wrong. I will do my best to describe my situation, and then my question.
I have an existing "lean-to" style porch roof that itself seems in good shape, but the structures that support it don't make much sense to me, so I am starting a project to upgrade\repair\reinforce the supports for the roof. On one side, the rafters are toe-nailed to a ledger board at the house. On the other, they are set atop a single 2x6 beam (the roof beam length is about 15'). The beam is supported by 4 columns\posts (this is where we get to the odd part). The posts consist of 4x4s that run from the footings (currently a cinder block buried in the ground) up to along side the beam and connected to the beam with lag bolts and nails. There is a 2x4 attached to the side of the post with lag bolts that sits below the beam but does not extend all the way down to the footings. All 4 columns are of this type of construction. I tried to make a simple sketch of what I am describing:

My plan to upgrade this entails digging new, proper footings ( I am in the north east US), replacing the columns with 6x6 posts, and adding an additional 2x6 to double up (laminate?) the existing beam. Like this:

So my question is about attaching the new 2x6 beam to the existing one. All the information I can find online says that the proper way to do this requires a fair amount of nails driven through the boards in both directions. My concern is that all that hammering against the beam in the direction away from the house may cause stress or start to pull the rafters away from the ledger (the roof is currently finished with asphalt shingles on top). Is there any type of screw that might be acceptable to use in this scenario? It seems like driving screws in might be a lot less stress on the structure. Or would a nail gun be better or worse in this case than a hammer?


texts: Why is my gas stove taking 30+ seconds to light?

texts:
I have a gas cooktop that takes a really long time to ignite.  You have to hold down the ignitor and it clicks for an absurd amount of time (30+ seconds) before the burner ignites.  Everything after that works fine.  After you have been cooking for a while, if you turn the burner off then back on within a few minutes, it will light quicker (<5 seconds).  All the burners are like this.

Using a stick lighter or a match has the same problem with lighting.

What do I need to check?  Could the ignitor be bad?  Not enough gas coming through to the burners?  Clogged burners?


texts: What’s the best way to cut the bottom of my door?

texts:
I need to cut 1/4” off the bottom of my door. really struggling and wondering if the teeth on my saw are too much - seems like 140? Could I use a 50 tooth?
And how did I fix this? Can I move the level/guide 1/16 inch back and start again?
I’m not a carpenter, so keep it in layman’s terms please.


texts: How much base is needed for small retaining wall?

texts: Using crestone blocks 3.5 inches tall by 11.5 w and 7.5 deep. I will be doing two levels plus caps. What base depth should base material be? I know base brick should sit 1 inch deep for every 8 inches of wall, but how deep should base be?


texts:
First post and question:
I have a spa serviced by a 240v 4 wire subpanel with GFI breaker. I would like to add a 120v branch with a GFI outlet for light duty (light, music etc.)
Can I pull the power from one leg?
I realize that I will have to ground the new line and use the one leg of 240v and white neutral.
Since it would have the existing GFI 240v beaker, how would I setup the new 120v GFI breaker?
The spa is 40' away from main panel, I would like to avoid burying another line and conduit.
Any ideas or concerns?


texts: Also have 3 black, 3 white and 3 ground wires coming from ceiling but difference in current

texts:
I'm replacing a ceiling fan and found the same problem as Cathy Ashley with 3 each white, black and ground coming from ceiling. None were marked, and I couldn't remember how they were originally connected so I connected all white together and all black together and all ground together. I know very little about electricity. When I turned on the power and switch, man it popped and cared me to death. I was standing at the switch and turned it off immediately. I found the senario on this site and tested the wires as instructed. Problem is only two of the black wires are hot and none of the white are hot. So I don't know what to do.
Also, I replaced the switch and it didn't have any instructions. Is the black and white wires coming out of the wall supposed to be connected to the switch a certain way?


texts: Identifying and fixing leak sources, relevant cracks and water flow on a flat concrete roof?

texts:
I'm asking this here to avoid being conned by "professional" roofers in India who either exaggerate their estimates or send highly unskilled labourers to do the job.

This is the layout of a roof:

D: Areas that are damaged
H: Drainage holes
P: Ponding areas (places where water accumulates and does not flow away)
C: Small cracks that may or may not be significant for consideration

D2 was an area where a solar water heater was installed and after it was removed, one strip of the roofing got damaged and cement was applied on it (as in the pic below). It hasn't caused any leak problems for 5 years, and the area only started leaking during last year's rains.

H1 and H2 are the only points for water drainage on the entire roof (I do believe the roof is slightly sloping toward H1 and H2). Because of D2 having some elevation, some of the water collecting in P1 was not able to flow to H2 (blue arrow) and was not flowing to H1 either.

Water also collects in area P2 and there's no scope for drainage.

Other areas of damage are at D1 and D3

This is the dampness caused on the ceiling right below D2. There is no leakage anywhere else inside the house:

There are also some slight cracks on the plaster on the ceiling:

Queries:
1. Is it possible that the damages at D1 and D3 could cause water to seep into the damaged areas and eventually flow and accumulate at the D2 area, thus causing leakage inside the house?
2. A mason says that in order to waterproof D2, he'd first have to chip off some of the cement along that strip, then get some sand and cement and mix some waterproofing liquid (another mason said he'd mix a waterproofing powder) into the cement and then apply it over D2. He's offering to do it (and the repairs of D1 and D3) at less than half the price that professional roofers charge. Does his technique sound ok to you?
3. Is it ok if there is some ponding of water at P1 and P2 or should some cement be applied at least at P1, just to create a slope so that the water flows into H2 (won't that add extra weight to the roof)?
4. How does one determine whether cracks are just cracks on the plaster or whether they are deep enough to cause roof leaks? For example, the pictures below:


texts: pond pump humming, but water keeps flowing

texts:
I have a pond pump TidalWave PAF-25SV which started humming very loud, although it keeps on pumping water as before.

So I took it out of the basket, removed the intake screen, cleaned up any debris (not much though). From there I can observe the impeller, and it does not seem to be clogged with anything. I can't really access the impeller, as it is covered with chamber, but I can rotate it with a screwdriver. It does rotate, however not very easily (not sure how easy it has to rotate?), so I'm wondering if this is a impeller bearing issue? If so, does it mean it can't be replaced, and the whole pump needs to be replaced?
Thanks.


texts: Wiring a house to prevent light flickers and overloaded breakers

texts:
Most of the places I've lived in have had the following issue. My computer is running on the same physical breaker as a refrigerator and the overhead lights in a room. The refrigerator kicks on, causing at best the lights to flicker and at worst the breaker to trip.

Why does this happen?

Better, if I were designing a house from the ground up, how could I account for this potential problem in the electrical layout of the house and prevent it from happening altogether?


texts: Powering a 240V 15A air compressor with a 6-20 plug

texts:
I have an air compressor with a 240V 15A power requirement and a 6-20 plug (looks like normal US plug but with one of the flat ends turned at a 90 degree angle). Instruction manual can be found [here][1] (pdf hyperlink, 1MB).

I'm trying to figure out the best way to deliver power to it.

I have a gas powered generator that has a 120/240V 30A L14-30 twist lock outlet. Alternatively my house has a 240V 4 prong 30A dryer outlet (it's a 14-50 plug/outlet but is on a 30 amp breaker).

I'm looking for a quick and safe way to get the compressor up and running other than having an electrician put in an appropriate new outlet. Any ideas?

Info plate on motor attached.

[1]: https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/pd_download/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0807019.pdf


texts: GFCI outlet trips when one one device is plugged in even when it is off

texts: I have a water circulator that worked fine plugged in the GFCI outlet in the bathroom. Currently the GFCI trips anytime the water circulator is plugged in even when the water circulator is turned off. Plugging it while off trips the GFCI. I checked the plug and device, they appear dry. Other devices don’t trip the outlet.


texts: I sanded then painted my kitchen cabinets with a primer by Behr and two coats of a gray eggshell finish latex paint by CIL. Now I notice that the finish is easily scratched. Will this paint harden up over time, or do I need to put some kind of clear coat over it to make it durable in the kitchen?


texts:
Facts:

Bathroom Size: 8 feet * 8 feet * 10 feet (Height)

Purpose:

(1) Increase the Bathroom air freshness during use
(2) Keep the Bathroom dry for the next use

Note: Intermittent Extraction of air is more preferable over Continuous Extraction

Alternative 1:
Install two fans
(1) Inlet fan (2) Outlet fan
(Both the fans are of same air flow capacity, installation at same height side by side on a same wall)

Alternative 2:
Install only one
(1) Outlet fan
(With the double air flow capacity the single fan in alternative 1, installation at same height on a same wall )

Which alternative will be more efficient and beneficial for Bathroom Ventilation? How?


texts: What advantages does bending copper pipes have over joining many parts without brazing?

texts:
These questions are in context of a DIY solar water heater I am planning (another separate question). The copper pipes in question, are supposed to carry around hot water using thermo-siphon mechanism.

Are there some specific reasons why people recommend bending long copper pipes, instead of cutting them into sections and joining them using U-joints, elbow-joints etc. ?

Also, can such joints be made reliable (as in leak-proof, while withstanding water pressure) without brazing them ?


texts:
I bought a project house last year, and unfortunately it's turned out that one of the previous owners was a keen amateur electrician. Sadly his enthusiasm wasn't matched by competence or any sense of safety, and while replacing a ceiling I've discovered a loose live wire.

Obviously I'm going to get a professional in to deal with this, but in the meantime for peace of mind I'd like to make it a bit more safe.

Is putting the wires in a terminal block the best approach, and if so does it matter if the amp rating on that terminal block is higher than that of the wire that's leading into it?


texts: Replace light switch connected to a power outlet with dimmer - two black wires to one black and red

texts:
I have a light switch that is connected to a power outlet.
The light switch has 2 block wires, one coming from the wire and one coming from the power outlet.

I want to change this to a dimmer and I think i need to connect the top wire to the black dimmer wire and the bottom to the red dimmer wire, then connect the green to my existing earth.

Note: The switch controls wall lights
      Outlet is always on, switch does not control it.

I should mention, this is in the bathroom, so should I also replace the outlet with a GFCI ?


texts: Can an outlet be installed in the blank door panel in front of a sink?

texts: According to the code what does it say about a receptacle outlet installed on a kitchen sink drawer? Can you do it or not? The panel is assumed to be fake.


texts: I had a fountain in the middle of my yard. The fountain is now gone but my GFCI Outdoor box is still there and is in a mid-run, as I have another outlet against my far fence. The electrical is buried from my house to the fountain where it pops up (with the outdoor GFCI) then buried again to the far fence with another GFCI. How can I remove the fountain (mid run GFCI outlet)? Can I splice it, do I need a box? Can it be buried? I'd like to put lawn back over the top.


texts: How to put vinyl click-together flooring up against cove base tile?

texts:
I've got a bathroom project which (among other things) consists of putting in new 5mm click-together plank vinyl flooring.

To fully explain, I need to include the fact that there was some rotten wood flooring around the toilet of which I ripped up a couple layers of the pressed plywood, and am now in the process of trying to shim back up to level, so that I can lay a whole new layer of 5mm underlayment on top of the linoleum, and then the new flooring on top of that.

The issue I have is that bottom half of two of the bathroom walls is tiled, with the bottom row being cove base tile, which has a lip curving out at the bottom, like this:

Adding my 5mm underlayment will bring me about even with the top of lip, but then I've got a curve which I'm trying to lay the new flooring up against.

I have two main thoughts on how to handle:

Due to how click-together flooring connects, there are "top" lips on two sides of each plank, and "bottom" lips on the other two.  The "top" lip appears to fit pretty well over the tile lip (hope that makes sense), and I'm thinking I can throw something like liquid nails in there to fill in the gap, and thus get the flooring up pretty tight against the tile wall.
Something like this (excuse my paint skills):

Here's the only problem - in order to stagger the planks, I have to start the next row with a half plank, which means I've cut it and thus it has a straight edge.  Is it possible to router / bevel 5mm flooring so that it would fit against the lip??

Option 2 is take a cutoff wheel and try to cut the lip off the base tile as straight as possible to get both underlayment and tile to fit underneath.

I'm being told to go for option 2, however I don't think I'll be able to freehand cutoff wheel the tile very cleanly / straight, which means I'll likely have a very jagged edge (and maybe some cracked tiles) that the new flooring may or may not fit under.

Either way, I'm planning on filling in the gap(s) with color matching caulk as best as I can. Quarter round trim is unfortunately ruled out since I can't nail it into the wall (tile), and I guess you're not supposed to nail it down into the new flooring, believe it or not :P

Sorry for the book, any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated!


texts: Identifying Wires (especially Neutral) in Complex 3-Way Light Circuit

texts:
I'm planning to replace a number of 3-way switches with smart switches and as a necessary first step have been trying to map out the wiring in each of the relevant boxes. This is what I've come up with (it's Powerpoint, try not to make fun ;)):

This shows 3 boxes on two floors. A through I are all box entry points. The colors represented are what is actually used (except gray has been substituted for white). A simple gray box in the diagram is just a connector. The dotted lines are what I believe is going on in the walls, but that's where I would love to get a second opinion.
The tricky one for me is the leftmost box (2nd Floor Middle Stairway Bottom) because it contains wires from two different circuits, as I confirmed using a voltage tester (even when the breaker for "Circuit" was off, the purple and peach wires in that box were hot - which I guess isn't illegal but I was none too pleased to learn).
I assume the orange wire coming out of S1B's common terminal splits at or near light 1, in the 2nd floor ceiling, providing the load for light 1 and also ultimately for light 2, on the 3rd floor ceiling, as the orange wire from D-E is unbroken. I couldn't find this particular configuration as an example of multi-light 3 way wiring, though. I guess the other possibility is that the orange wire goes C-D-E unbroken, and at light 2 splits and goes all the way back down the stairs to light 1 through another conduit in the ceiling, but at the end of the day I'm not sure it matters.
What I'm less sure about is the neutrals. At first I thought the white at C connected to the white at D, but then it occurred to me that that would mean that the neutrals from 2 different circuits were all connected (if we assume the white at A and B are on the same circuit as the purples and peach). That would be a big no no, right? So on second thought, it seems like the white at D must be the return from light 1, and the whites in that 2nd floor box, like the purple and peach, have nothing to do with the circuit I'm interested in. Rather everything on the circuit I care about ultimately starts and returns through F, which I believe connects to an outlet on the other side of the wall.
So, does this seem right or could there be other possibilities I haven't considered? And how could I be more certain?
The reason this matters is that it determines where the smart switches have to go, and what kind I have to use. And also I just want to be sure that when I play with the white wires in the 3rd Floor Stairway Top box that I'm not going to get in trouble with that mystery circuit that shares the 2nd floor box.
Thanks for any insights!


texts: Where can I find replacement double action hinges for an old, heavy door?

texts:
I live in a Victorian-era house in Philadelphia. We have a double hung door into the kitchen and one of the hinges has completely given way. I need to find replacements but I'm having some problems finding the right replacement.
Here is a photo of the original hinge, and there are more online:

It appears that newer hinges have a slightly different design. Notice how the original folds compared to the one I linked to.

The door I'm hanging is about 1 1/4" thick.


texts: How much weight can an old work box hold?

texts:
I will be installing new light fixtures in two bathrooms that look like this:

Each fixture will be replacing a light box. Meaning it is a simple chrome plated box about 30" wide with a plastic diffuser and sat on top of a mirror.

The challenge: The old light is connected to the power cable and there is no work box, it was simply screwed to the wall and wired up. The wire comes through the wall via a hole as big as the cable.

I plan on using an old work box to not only contain the cable, but attach the new light fixture to it.

My question is: How much weight can the old work box hold? (As it will be secured to the sheet rock and not a stud).


texts: Attach light fixture with 3.5" bolt holes to ceiling box with 2.75" bolt holes

texts:
I've removed an old and ugly looking ceiling mounted fan (probably installed 30 years ago) which I'm replacing with a modern light fixture.

The round (not octagonal) junction box in the ceiling (behind sheet rock) that the fan was attached to has two mounting bolt holes that are 2.75" apart and the new light fixture has mounting bolt holes that are 3.50" apart.

The problem is how to attached the new light fixture to the existing box given that the holes of the fitting are 0.5" wider than the electric box?

I've tried using an all-purpose crossbar but it doesn't work because the mounting bolts from the new light fixture coincide with the sheetrock cutout for the electric box.

I thought about drilling holes in the new light fixture but think this would be dangerous because the light fixture has wires running between two pieces of metal and I obviously need to avoid drilling into them, also I cannot easily separate the two layers of metal.


texts: Is earthing required for a submersible water pump?

texts:
I have a submersible water pump with a power cable that ends with a three-pronged plug with a protective neutral contact. Having a matching outlet is problematic - there are only unearthed outlets at where the pump will be installed.

Now I don't see why earthing should be needed in the first place. The pump will be fully submerged into a well with drinking water that will have contact with earth. So I assume that it will be automatically earthed at all times.

Is earthing required in such setup?


texts: Electrical service sizing mix up in Mexico

texts:
Facts:

The national electrical supply company of Mexico called "Comisión Federal de Electricidad" (CFE) oficially instructs users to install:

A two pole one trip main interrupt behind the service drop of "250V/30A" capacity for single phase 120V service.
A two pole one trip main breaker behind the service drop of "250V/30A" capacity for split phase 240V service (Controversially called dual-phase in Mexico)
A three pole one trip main breaker behind the service drop of "250V/100A" for three phase 240V service. (Most probably open delta)
#8 AWG type THW copper wire from the meter lugs to the premises service interrupt  for both 120/240V service (Rated 50A by the NFPA 70 NEC edition 2020 - See Table 310.16)
Properly sized THW copper wire "as needed by demand" and "in accordance to sizing tables" for three phase 240V service.

The NEC is being translated almost word by word and published in Mexico under the name NOM-001-SEDE-2018 (2018 is the latest I can find)

There is no real enforced implementation of this "Norma Oficial Mexicana", neither any inspection at service connection anywhere throughout the nation which makes it more of a guide for the educated electrician.

The actual service drop of the utility is usually #6 aluminium wire. (As found in their own published specs - See Table 1; Rated between 40-55A depending on the type by the NFPA 70 NEC edition 2020 - See Table 310.16)

The actual meter (if it is digital and up to date [there's still a lot of analog meters used from old installations]) is rated 15(100)A in any case.

Most homes in Mexico use mainly gas for any heat appliances and only cold water for laundry although there is common use of air conditioning units in the north.

A common household load would include appliances such as a relatively large fridge, several washers w/o dryers, a steam iron, a microwave, one or several blenders and lots of consumer electronics. Occasionally a power tool for a short period of time.

Most shops with extensive use of high demanding electrical tools including high capacity welders will nevertheless have a simple 120V or 240V single phase service contract.

Lots of, if not most, electricians will install a 50A main breaker nonetheless knowing that that's what a #8Cu THW and a #6Al can carry.

Doubts:
So there's quite a few things that don't add up here and it makes one wonder about the quality of the provided service. The disconnect means requirement of 30A is way lower than what the wiring instructions would be capable of (50A) for a pure 120V service and very boldly limits the end users consumption.
The fact that the instructions for a 240V service are not altered in any way other than requiring an additional wire and a different meter base is just outrageous and makes it per their own definition completely useless unless you want to permanently trip the main service interrupt with your 240V appliances.
It appears that the only power providing utility in the country does not necessarily adhere to the nationally published electrical code or even less promote it. (In fact in reality most of their personell wouldn't even know a code existed and any educated layman would cringe over many of the installations done by the utility)
Questions:

Why would a utility instruct the premises to install lower rated main interrupts than their service actually provides?
Taking into account that inspection does not exist, would it be ok to just go with documented standards and up size the main interrupt to something within specs? (For example 50A main interrupt for a 120V single phase service fed with proper wire size)
If I was to rent a 240V split phase service and ran adequate wire would a 100A main service be realistic since it would be a balanced load between the two #6 ungrounded aluminium conductors resulting in 50A each?


texts: Should a ventilated attic (w. Openings in the eaves) be warm in the middle of a cold winter that has a heat pump installed as the heating system for the living area below. If it is warm does that mean there is fixable air leakage in the duct system of the heat pump? The floor of the attic has insulation but the roof does not.


texts: Wiring a pull chain pendant light fixture

texts:
How to add a cord to this fixture?

I want to wire the white wire to the pull chain pendant light fixture.

White wire - which is ground which is hot?

The cord:

Very confusing,where do I start and what do I do?


texts: Will using a paint or sealer on a concrete floor damage it?

texts:
I live in a 1st floor flat (relatively new build) that has concrete underneath the carpet. I'd like to remove the carpet and treat the concrete and have concrete floor.

The floor seems pretty solid and has channels for pipework that are covered with wood. Excuse the dirt but this picture underneath the bath gives an idea.

My questions are:
Is there a way to tell what kind of concrete floor I have?

Is there any risk to just putting down a sealant in terms of damaging the floor structurally or is it a pretty safe thing to do. I don't want what is a relatively cheap floor treatment turning into some kind of expensive major damage.

Thanks for any suggestions!


texts: Eliminating Dandelion with concentrated vinegar solution

texts:
I have serious infestation of dandelion this spring, and to kill it, I bought the 30% vinegar solution from Green Gobbler.

I used undiluted 30% solution and put it in the multipurpose sprayer, setting a nozzle to squirt rather than spraying so that I can shoot vinegar solution right on the top of dandelion to minimize vinegar spreading immediate adjacent lawn. I probably squirted a good 5ml or slightly more and it killed dandelion and surrounding lawn as seen in the following photo;

I probably squired a way too much and should diluted the vinegar solution down.

Question: Will the surrounding dead grass grow back eventually ?

Also;  I've experimented  with a few dilutions but have not found a sweat spot in which dilution of the vinegar is enough to kill dandelion but has less damage on adjacent lawn.

I'd appreciate any comments or pointers.

Thanks.


texts: AC won't turn on after replacing thermostat batteries

texts: we replaced the batteries on our thermostat after they began flashing for a few minutes. We'd been using the heater up to that point. After replacing the batteries, the heater does not turn on anymore. We can hear the click indicating it's trying but nothing is happening.


texts: I am pulling about 120' 6 AWG wires from my main panel to a pool control center, and my question is do I use bare or insulated ground wire. Also, based on the tables it seems like even 10 AWG would be fine for it, but I will be using #8.


texts: Home Theater projector re-searches for input when power surges (light/ac/fridge turning on or off)

texts:
I live in the US and have an interesting problem with my home theater system that Google couldn't quite solve for me. My home theater setup is as follows (I can provide model numbers upon request, if necessary):

AT&T Uverse box
Sony A/V Receiver
Viewsonic Projector

The Receiver and uverse box are plugged in to the same surge protector and the uverse box is connected to the receiver via HDMI. The receiver is then connected to the projector via HDMI and the projector is plugged in to an outlet on the other side of the room.

Here's the problem. This does not happen 100% of the time, but often. When a light turns on or off, the A/C turns on or off, washer, dryer, fridge, etc. When any of these turn on of off, the projector goes to the screen showing it is searching for a different source and simultaneously the sound stops. If I just change the source on the projector the sound does not cut out because the sound is coming from the uverse box to the receiver.

So far this sounds like this question:Why would my TV turn off/on when connected to a surge suppressor?, but here's where things get interesting.

I had this problem in my apartment and got a new receiver(for other reasons) and I still had the same problem. Then, I moved to a new house and the problem remained. At the old place I had a Time Warner cable box and now I have uverse box. Literally the only thing that has stayed the same in this whole thing is the projector. That would indicate that the projector is the problem, which it very well may be, but I wanted to get some more insight before I went out to buy a new projector.

So the question is, does anyone know what is causing all this?


texts: After replacing my Moen cartridge in the shower I got water hammer in the wall

texts:
I replaced my shower cartridge and after turning the water back on I got water hammer which sounded in the wall every time i turned any water in that part of the house on or especially off! I've never had this issue before and it would bang up to 5 times after shutting the water off in anywhere in this bathroom or the other bathroom which is on the other side of the wall.
I drained all the pipes several times to replenish the air stops but nothing helped. I talked to a few plumbers and no one could figure it out...

GOOD NEWS!!! after reading another post about someone halving trouble with a Danco replacement I went out and bought a Moen cartridge and the water hammer went away! now it works perfect!!
Must have been the cheap/faulty Danco cartridge


texts: Light entering from sides of blackout curtain

texts:
I have installed a blackout curtain in my bedroom. Unfortunately, there is still a lot of light entering from above and below the curtain, as you can see in the picture below. Is there anything I can do to make my room darker (while still keeping the curtain operational --- I need to be able to open and close it)?

Unfortunately "get a longer curtain" is not an option, because there is a radiator right below the window, and a longer curtain would block it out and reduce the effectiveness of heating. Ideally, I'd need to put some more cloth horizontally at the top and the bottom, somehow.

I still have some of the blackout cloth used for the curtain; I wonder if it is possible to make some sort of attachment with it (but I am also open to completely different ideas).

There are already shutters on the outside of the window, but they still let a lot of light through.


texts: Remove old yellow glue from wooden floor that has consistency of cement

texts:
We have taken up the carpets in a house we just bought to reveal the lovely dark floorboards, but what we have (what i guess) is old dried glue around the edges.

The hardened glue is yellow and when you scrape it with something sharp, it scrapes away and it seems to have a powdery consistency, but is hardened like cement.

I have read some stuff online about using vegetable oil to soften it etc but that has had no effect.

I don't want to scrape it off for fear of damaging the wood underneath.

I have also read lots of things warning from using solvents as that could damage the wood also.

So, the upshot is i don't really know the ideal solution here and would love any advice that can be offered!


texts: How do I trace a water leak inside a stud wall?

texts:
There is (maybe was) a slow water leak in the wall behind our shower.

While tracking down an issue with the floor, I removed the frout panel from under the shower tray and noticed it was very wet under there.   As the water is a long way from the drain outlet, I don’t think it is the drain outlet, also I can feel up the inside of the stud wall to above the level of the tray and it feels damps.

Over the last few days it has dried out a lot due to the under tray panel being removed.  It also did not get any worse when using the shower so I am guessing it is a slow leak of some sort of past issue.

The shower is controlled from a pump/mixer in the loft with an electronic control, so only a single pipe from the pump goes though the wall. There are also two water central heating pipes running though the wall.

One side of the stud wall is tiled over ply board; the other side is next to a inside brick wall. The stud wall has just been added to provide space to run the pipes. As it predates us buying the home, I don’t know how it is built, however from under the shower tray I can see a few 2x3 vertical timbers.  I will also be able to access the top of the wall from the loft, but have not yet taken the boarding up in the loft to do this.

I believe I can replace any of the pipes if needed without breaking into the wall by using flexible plastic pipe.    If I had two I could bypass the shower pipe by putting an outlet on the ceiling.

Any more ideas on how to track down this leak?


texts: Hampton Bay fan missing remote, replace with pull chain?

texts:
Moved into a new place and my master bedroom has a fairly nice Hampton Bay fan. However, the previous tenants "lost" the remote for it. The walls are plaster so the landlord opted against running a switch on the wall, so for the time being I am without a ceiling fan.

I'd like to replace the remote assembly with a pull chain, as I've heard no good things about ceiling fan remotes.

Is this feasible or do I need to go buy a replacement remote?

Edit: this fan is a real POS. No chains, no reverse switch, no remote receiver in any serviceable area. I found a replacement remote at Home Depot and attempted to replace it. First I tried using the factory defaults and hurray the fan turned on...just in reverse...and slow. I'm not sure what exactly to do with this fan besides ask my landlord to throw it out. Ideas?

Edit 2: updated my answer, the light housing had fubar'd electronics. Replaced those and it is golden.


texts: Can I mount a projector shelf to drywall?

texts: I need to mount a projector shelf, however finding a stud is proving impossible. Is it a terrible idea to put this shelf up on drywall and then the projector which probably weighs at least 15lbs?:


texts: Attaching shower head arm escutcheon to wall

texts:
My contractor left all three shower heads in our house in this condition (see photo). I can slide the escutcheon (trim plate) up to the wall but it doesn't stay put.
What's the correct way to finish it?
Plumber's putty inside the plate with silicone caulk around the edge?


texts: I just bought several strings of lights.  At first they were fine, but then they keep popping fuses.  The lights say they are 60 amps.  Can I replace the fuse with higher amp or what do I have to do to keep them running?


texts: Why is my timer tripping the breaker on my pool filters power cable?

texts: I just bought a pop-up pool for my kids, got it up, running, and all the chemical levels correct.... now i just have one problem: When the timer I bought to regulate when the filter runs turns off, it also trips the breaker/GFCI (not really sure what its called, but there is a red reset and a yellow test button) on the end of the pool filter power cable. Why is this happening?


texts: Coleman furnace flame quits after 20 minutes

texts:
Coleman DGAA090BDTA furnace flame quits after 20 minutes, below thermostat temperature.  Fails after 3 auto attempts to reignite.   I power cycle unit, still does not ignite.  Wait 15 minutes, reignites on first try, burns for 10 minutes, quits.  Wait 10-15 minutes, again works fine for 5 to 10 minutes. Repeat. Not really short cycling.

Doesn't matter if filters are on or not, and filters are clean anyway.  Cleaned flame sensor.  Made no difference.  All duct vents are open.  Doesn't seem to be limit switches because when I unplug limit switches, fan kicks on.  I've read as many DIY sites as possible, several similar questions on this site...watched videos...  nothing quite like this.


texts: How to avoid overtightening flexible water supply hose connectors

texts:
Concerning standardised water supply hoses such as the 15mm braided hose below.

I've come across two schools of thought on how tight the hex nut connectors should be:

Hand-tighten only.
Hand-tighten then apply spanner for quarter-turn to half-turn.

In the absence of instructions specific to manufacturer/model, what would you advise?


texts:
Not sure if this belongs here but it’s the closest I can find.

I discovered some flies in my food waste bin that our local authorities make us have and now I can’t stop seeing them, I find loads. I have since got rid of the bin completely.

I have tried spray but out right killing them I find the easiest and quickest way.

What is the best way in lockdown that I can get rid of them? Traps etc


texts: Natural Oak Table Top - Removing accumulated crud without damage

texts:
I have an oak dining table that is made of horizontally laminated blocks, not "butcher block" since the end grain is not at the top.  It had a natural oil finish.  Over the years it has been used mostly at one end and has accumulated a layer of "crud" visible in the photo as a dull spot.

This picture is after vigorous scrubbing with Murphy's Oil Soap and a soft rag.  If I run a fingernail across the dull area I scrape up quite a bit of crud that feels oily/waxy.  I don't get anything when doing the same over other areas.

Given that the oil soap/soft rag does not seem to help, what's the next step? I feel like something very mildly abrasive, like a plastic scrubber sponge gently applied, would probably remove the crud but don't want to damage the wood.

What's the best way to remove the accumulated crud, and what should I apply afterwards to restore the original look?


texts: What is the best quick repair for a drain pipe?

texts: In particular, a cast iron drain pipe. It doesn't have to be pretty, but needs to be effective and should last until it can be fixed properly.


texts: Can I use 2.5v bulbs in a holiday light string designed for 5v bulbs?

texts: I've got a lighting fixture that says it wants 5v .6w bulbs.  literally every one burned out, so he two spares aren't enough.  All the other ones I see now are 2.5 V.  Can I swap these in?  My guess is yes - they'll just draw whatever current makes sense, and since they're lower voltage won't generate more heat.  Just want to make sure, for safety reasons.


texts: What is proper way to wire hard wired LED strip light power supply/controller/driver?

texts:
I'm considering LED strip lighting for a pantry and for the stairway to the basement.  I see three types of power supplies for the strips:  with an AC plug, with pigtails, and with screw posts.  The ones with an AC plug are easy to use and I might consider that for the stairway, but I can't easily hide the plug and outlet in the pantry (it wouldn't look "clean").

The power supplies look to be too large to fit inside an electrical box.

I could mount the pigtailed power supply outside the box and run the wires to the inside where I attach to 120 VAC.  But, I'm concerned you can't have exposed AC wires (going from the supply to the box).  What's code compliant?  Do I put them in some sort of conduit?

What about the supplies with the screw posts??  I'm pretty sure I can't wrap tape around it to isolate the AC (tape could come off).  These mystify me.

Thanks,

Jim

p.s.  Got asked for examples...First is an example of one with a plug, second is an example of one with pigtails, and third is an example of one with screw posts:


texts: Why does one pressure tank on my well only pressurize partly?

texts:
I have three homes on my well pump. Each home has its own bladder type well tank. One is a 20 gallon, one is a 24 gallon, and one is a 62 gallon. The well pump cut in/cut out is 30/40. I set the air pressure on all three at the recommended 28 psi.
The 20 and 24 gallon tanks fill up normally, but the 62 gallon only fills to about 10 gallons. I lowered the air pressure to 10 psi in the 62 gallon tank and it fills much fuller now, but I'm not sure if it will work like that. Any words of wisdom will be appreciated.


texts: Any tricks to extend laminate floor without having to re-lay the whole floor?

texts:
Problem: I had some old french doors removed and some new upvc bifold doors fitted. The french doors had a brick stub wall either side of the doors. My laminate floor was fitted up to the brick walls. With the walls now gone I have an 8 inch gap where I need my flooring extending.(see pic)

The floor in this pic was laid left to right and its click lock type. No Glue used . I have 2 spare packs of flooring ready to use.

The previous owner has laid the flooring throughout the ground floor with no breaks.

The floor extends to another 2 rooms to the right of the above pic and if I trace the boards back I think I'd need to pull the whole floor nearly plus the skirting boards,door frames etc.

Any ideas , tips ?

Update: Thanks for tile idea. Here is the finished job :)


texts: How can I make thicker interior door slabs work as replacements for thinner slabs?

texts:
I screwed up when ordering new door slabs. Measured everything except the thickness, and, of course, I wasn't lucky.

Anyway, the door is pre-mortised, and it won't close because it is too thick. I am trying to figure out the best way to proceed given the fact that it is pre-mortised and with the holes for lock-sets.

Can I simply trim the door stop with a circular saw or a router? If not, what other options do I have?

Thank you.


texts: I reinstalled an old mercury thermostat.  Heat and air both work, but they won't cut off until I move the thermostat switch to Off.  In other words, when the switch is on Heat, the furnace and blower run regardless of which end of the tube the blob of mercury is in.  Likewise, when the switch is on Cool, the A/C and blower run regardless of which end of the tube the blob of mercury is in.


texts: Can an electrician run wiring to convert battery powered smoke alarms to wired alarms?

texts:
I recently purchased a 2001 built condominium unit with original battery powered smoke and CO2 alarms. Since I have to replace all the alarms at this point anyway, I'm curious how invasive a procedure it would be to get wiring run for these in a traditional wood frame / drywall construction.

Can I expect someone marketing themselves / licensed as an electrician to be able to do a job like this or do I need to seek help from a more general contractor for the drywall / etc. work on the ceilings?


texts: Reinforced concrete drilling: wall plug won't fit

texts:
First-time driller here, so please bear with me! :)

I was trying to afix a shelf in the wall, and started to drill the holes for its mounting brackets. The wall is reinforced concrete, and I was using a standard 6mm masonry drill bit attached to a hammer-function-enabled machine. I stumbled upon several problems:

1) The drill bit at some point became fixed in the wall and was no longer spinning - only the machine's circular grip was spinning around it. I tightened the grip and continued, but this happened several times.

2) The drill would still not advance, so I ended up using a 4mm bit to go in first, and then followed up with the 6mm one that I needed.

3) Although I used a wall detector to check for pipes/wires before drilling, I was very nervous since the detector seemed to very unreliably beep over the same locations, perhaps because of the metalic reinforcing bars in the concrete. In the absence of (useful) building plans, is there any other way to prevent drilling into pipes or wires?

4) After finishing drilling with the 6mm bit, my wall plug (anchor) did not fit the hole, even when (gently) hammered in; and drilling some more (by applying pressure towards the sides of the hole) to make it a bit wider also did not suffice. Both of these strategies together (hammer+enlarging the hole with same drill bit) had previously worked when I drilled into a softer wall (not sure if that was cellular concrete or drywall)!

5) I reckoned that given the hardness of concrete, I maybe just need to use the next-larger drill bit size, 7mm, to fit the 6mm plug; but my set does not include one (the next up is 8mm), and none of the sets I can see on Amazon include 7mm (for concrete or masonry) either, only for wood!

Sorry for the long and rather incoherent question, but I hope that someone can advise on how to best proceed despite my beginner mistakes!


texts: Hardwood flooring: transitions and expansion gaps

texts:
I'm gearing up to start installing flooring in my remodel, and I'm looking for input of a few finer details. My house is a split level, and I'm installing hardwood on the upper level with the exception of tile in the bathroom and a small area in front of the fireplace (see the diagram below). I'm planning a nail down installation of pre-finished 3/4" solid hickory parallel to the direction that the stairs run (this is perpendicular to the joists).

My main question relates to the interface of the hardwood and tile in front of the fireplace (neither have been installed yet). I purchased T-molding for the interface, which will allow for an adequate expansion gap, but I have also seen flush hardwood-tile interfaces that just have a thin strip of metal between them (see picture below). I find this much more aesthetically pleasing and would prefer this type of transition, but it doesn't allow for any expansion gap. Thus, am I looking for trouble if I go this route? If I do go for this type of installation, what considerations should I make?

My second question relates to the "drop off" in my diagram. Since this drop off is open to below, my intention is to install stair nosing along this edge and butt the flooring up to this stair nosing with no expansion gap. Is this an acceptable installation? What are my alternative if it isn't?

Thanks in advance for any help here.


texts: What type of door seal is this, and where can I find a replacement?

texts: Below are 2 photos of kerf insulation I have on a double door.  I can't seem to find a good match for it at HD or Lowes though.  All of the insulation I've found seems to be the wrong shape.  Does anyone know what type of insulation this is and where I can buy more of it, thanks!


texts: How can I transition between these floors?

texts:
I have recently fitted some new laminate flooring to my living room floor.  This floor meets directly with the tiled floor of the kitchen.  I'm looking to fit some sort of transition bar between the laminate floor and the kitchen tiles, however, the complication is that along with run of the length of where the two floors meet, the height difference between the two floors changes.

The first picture shows the two floors as they meet (this length is approx 2 metres).  I couldn't quite get the complete length in this picture, but it shows most of it.  The second picture shows one end of where the two floors meet.  This is the end at the top of the first picture in the first photo.  The third picture shows the other end of where the two floors meet (this is not shown in the first photo).

There is a small "channel" between the two floor types, and this channel is slightly wider at one end than the other (as can be seen in the 2nd & 3rd photos) - the width of that channel is approx. 30mm at the end shown in picture 3 and approx. 20mm at the end shown in picture 2.

The bigger issue, I believe, is that on the end shown in picture 2, the height between the top of the tile floor and the top of the laminate floor is approx. 5mm, whereas the height difference between the top of the tile and the top of the laminate in picture 3 is approx. 15mm.

I am aware that, under normal circumstances where the floor differential was consistent along it's length, I'd simply fit a "reducer" (i.e. something like this) however, I've no idea what to do in my case where the height differential fluctuates along the length of the floors meeting.

I've considered a PVC based reducer that will have some inherent flexibility, which may need to be "shaved down" in order to stay flush with both floors at both ends, however, I've no idea if this would work (or how difficult it would be).

Has anyone come across anything like this before?  Anyone got any ideas what the best approach would be to finish this job and fit an appropriate "covering" that would transition the two floors correctly?


texts: The drawer slide won’t extend fully because it keeps getting caught. I think it is catching on a loose screw but I can’t access the screw to tighten it as the slide keeps getting caught! Does anyone know how I can remove the slide when I don’t have access to the screws(because it won’t slide past the back ones as it keeps getting caught on them). Very frustrating.


texts: Ceiling mounted punching bag without compromising structure or floor above

texts:
This question is regarding the safest way of installing a heavy punching bag of 100 lbs from the basement ceiling. Above the basement ceiling is a wood floor. The goal is to sleep soundly at night knowing that we don't have to worry about damaging the ceiling/floor or wall structure.

QUESTION 1:

Is one of these methods, or another method, the best and safest for hanging and using a 100 lbs punching bag and not having to worry about it damaging the floor structure or the floor above over time?:

(a)

Adding 3 or 4 beams parallel between the existing basement ceiling joists
Adding a perpendicular beam that will screw into those parallel beams (so that the weight is distributed amongst those beams)
Attaching the ceiling mount (Note 1) to that perpendicular beam

(b)

Adding a beam parallel between the basement ceiling joists
Attaching the ceiling mount (Note 1) to that one parallel beam

(c)

Adding a steel beam resting on solid wall at each end, joined by a wood beam going across the ceiling.
Ceiling mount/bag would hang on this beam.

Note 1: The ceiling mount is designed to absorb the shock produced by hitting the bag. The bag hangs from the ceiling mount, which is screwed into the ceiling beam.

QUESTION 2

What is the best way to secure/install the parallel beams or, if option (c) is recommended, the steel beams?

QUESTION 3

My assumption is that hanging anything from the existing joists, or even making holes in the existing joists, is best avoided so as not to weaken them or tamper with the existing floor structure. Is this a valid assumption?


texts: Is there a recommended vent for new roof?

texts:
I am redoing my roof. I already decided to add sofit ventilation which I currently do not have.
I have gable vents, and already decided to go with normal eyebrow vents Vs ridge ventilation.

Question is: which type?
I hear from the roofers themselves that sometimes they leak! (I would think we should have the technology to solve this problem by now...). Anyone knows what type I should use? here are a few main "types" I see:

http://www.ohaginvent.com/products_comp.asp#

1

2

3


texts: Where is the solenoid coil in my electric shower?

texts:
I am trying to resolve an issue with low water pressure (when dial is turned up to warm temperatures) which I've been told can sometimes be fixed by replacing old/broken solenoid coils. Many guides online tout about how easy it is to do this, but unfortunately I can't seem to find it in mine!

Can anyone point out where the solenoid coil is? I'm wondering if it's sitting above the stabiliser valve (encased in white plastic)...

This is the schematic of my shower: https://www.showerdoc.com/triton-hawaii-2-2011-shower-spares

And below is a picture of shower in question!


texts: I'm extending a switch leg and running into an over-current situation I don't understand.  I'm attaching my best Paint art to show you how the circuit is planned.  The red legs from the right hand switch to the switched portions of the split receptacles are producing a short.  I tested each leg of the switched (red) lines and found no shorts between red, black, white and ground.


texts: What is the order of installation for a stair railing?

texts: I am rebuilding a set of steps, and have decided that I need to replace the handrail at the base of the steps.  This is one of the exposed handrails, with ballisters and a newel at the end.  This is a straight run - no curves and no angle changes.  From what I understand, there are basically 4 different parts - the shoe, the ballisters (the upright supports), the newel (the post at the end) and the handrail.  In what order should I install the parts?  Should I fit the Newel in before the shoe to ensure a tight miter cut?


texts: Noticed this in a public restroom today.  Never seen anything like this in tile before.  Is this just a flex joint?  Or is it a patch job?


texts: How can I acquire or create a replacement latch for my service panel?

texts:
(I apologize if this seems like a shopping question - but I am out of ideas right now)

The black plastic, flat handle of the door to my domestic electrical box snapped off and I stupidly threw it away instead of keeping it and trying to glue it back together.

Based on the make and model of the panel I have been searching on the internet and the only matching latches I can find are large brass, keyed locks suitable for a more commercial setting.  I asked my electrician and he couldn't come up with one either (including from stuff he had lying around).

What can I do to to provide a latch for this electrical box, that would satisfy electrical code?


texts: Pair of 12/3 wires in outlet box showing neutral-ground voltage

texts:
Just bought a house, doing some remodel work in the kitchen. The home was built in 1969, so I'm pigtailing a lot of aluminum wiring terminations with alumiconn connectors. Pulled out a receptacle and discovered the wire configuration shown in the attached diagram. I tested the voltage with my multimeter, and am not sure what to make of the readings (also included in the attached diagram).

The wires do feed other receptacles downstream, but I disconnected all the receptacles and wirenutted all the wires. The multimeter readings in the diagram are with no load on the circuit.

Any idea what's going on, or advice about how to proceed?


texts: Is it possible to recognize a flickering LED from its technical data?

texts:
LEDs often flicker and I hate it. You rarely see it directly, but you can recognize it when you do fast movements with your hand or so, while the LED is the only light source. The movement then does not appear smooth.

Focussing on LED without driver, can you recognize just from the technical data, if an LED flickers? Is there something hidden in the numbers of watt, lumen, or something which might gives a hint whether an LED flickers or not?

Would be great, because I am sick of buying and being disappointed...


texts: Saving a brush from dried water-based Polyurethane

texts:
Today I got distracted while applying some Minwax Pro Spar Urethane (which apparently is water-based) and left the brush sitting on top the can.  The distraction lead to a trip to lowes and the infamous hobby lobby. So of course the Poly was pretty well on it's way to being hard. Mineral spirits did nothing after sitting for about 30 mins and now it's sitting in warm water.  I would really appreciate some suggestions.

So far everything I've found on this either relates to oil-based poly, cleaning practices immediately after use, or stripping from surfaces.

It's a synthetic brush, one of the Purdy XLs I think.  Either way, trying not to spend money on more brushes at the moment.  There's too many other projects going on around the hose that could use the $12-15.


texts: Soldering close to threaded joint with dope

texts:
I need to solder relatively close to a copper-steel adapter that has pipe dope.
I will put the adapter on a copper extension outside the assembly and then twist it on with dope, but the extension is only about 3-4" because it needs to make a turn due to a tight space.
I can't mount the elbow outside the assembly because then I won't have space to turn it.
My concern is that, if I heat with MAPP gas that close to a threaded joint with dope, I will cook the dope off the joint, and then might introduce a leak.
It's 1/2" pipe on both copper and steel side.
How close to the threaded, doped joint is it safe to heat the copper in order to apply a sweat fitting?


texts: Can/Should I seal laminate "wood" flooring?

texts: I bought a house with "wood" laminate flooring, where the planks are pressed wood with a wood print veneer. My agent was telling me that spills and moisture in the seams will cause the planks to swell because they're essentially sawdust. Is there a suggested measure I can take to seal the floor so spills don't ruin it?


texts: How do by-room electrical code requirements work for a house with open plan or nontraditional rooms?

texts:
The electrical code imposes a variety of requirements for different rooms of the house, in a way that implies that the house is divided up into non-overlapping, specific-purpose rooms at construction/wiring time.

(for example: Kitchens require a large number of GFCI receptacles on high-current circuits, close-together, bedrooms must be AFCI-protected, bathrooms must have a GFCI receptacle by the sink, etc.)

Obviously this gets a bit confusing in the open-plan houses that are popular today, and I have seen no clarity as to how these are to be handled.

Beyond that, I want to know how the code handles an austere one-room house with few or no permanent interior walls at all, where there are no more than two or three rooms and they all have multiple functions, and almost nothing is permanently installed. (This is in a rural jurisdiction with minimal building code requirements, so that won't be a problem). Do I have to combine every requirement for the whole room? Do I just split it up by floor plan, even though there are no actual barriers?


texts: hooking up a humidifier on a carrier infinity furnace

texts: Hello I would like to hook up my desert spring rotary disc humidifier to my new carrier infinity model #59MN7 furnace. I see the control board in the furnace has a HUM (humidifier) terminal and a 24VAC screw terminal. Is it really that simply or am I missing something? I have the carrier infinity touch control thermostat hooked up to it. any help would be appreciated.


texts: Fastening stone stair treads to a CMU base in a removable manner

texts:
I'm designing a very, very low set of landscape stairs (really more like a wide stoop) to transition two areas of my yard. My plan is to pour a concrete base slab, build a core with CMUs on top of that, and then clad everything in natural limestone. I'd like to integrate low-voltage lighting under the tread noses.

My plan so far is to cut a network of grooves into the CMU core to run the low-voltage wires from the fixtures back to the transformer. The treads would then go on top, concealing the fixtures and wires. However if I mortar the treads in place, it will be very difficult to replace the fixtures when they inevitably fail. Could I get away with some kind of less permanent fastening, like a masonry caulk that could be cut away when the treads need to be removed? The stone treads are quite heavy, and are mostly held in place by their weight. I think I would only need something to keep them from rocking/budging.


texts: How should I prepare the shower walls for tiling to prevent mold and mildew?

texts: What is the proper way to prepare a bathroom wall before tiling for a shower area to prevent the growth of mold and mildew?


texts: Will a 6x6x16 pressure treated lumber be okay for a play structure with a single super swing

texts:
I want to create a play structure for a super swing.  A super swing is like a tire swing in that it can travel in all directions and spin like crazy.  I used to have it on a tree branch but we moved to a house with no suitable limbs.

I was planning on using two 6x6x12 vertical posts set 2 feet deep in concrete with one 6x6x16 cross bar.  I was going to use two diaginal pieces in the interior to help with any bowing.

I am mostly worried that the cross bar will break from the forces of the swing.  I can set the posts deeper to reduce the forces (or if the depth is insufficient), but I would like to maintain the 10 feet above ground if possible.

Any other advice or suggestions appreciated.


texts: Is there a paint sprayer suitable for both large areas (exterior) and finish work (cabinets)?

texts:
I have two large upcoming painting projects that I'm likely going to use as an excuse to invest in a decent paint sprayer.

The first is repainting/restaining the exterior of our house. The second is to repaint our kitchen cabinets.

For the former, it sounds like an airless system would be the best product. Are there airless systems that would also be suitable for finish work (high gloss oil based paint) or for the latter is a High-Volume, Low-Pressure system really the only way to go?


texts: What's the minimum fall for a flat roof with edpm perpex polycarbonate

texts:
I read that an edpm rubber roof requires a minimum fall of 1 in 80 in order to be able to shed water. I calculate that to be 0.7 degrees. My flat roof is 1.7 degrees. I was thinking to also install a sheet of polycarbonate on the roof (or even better perspex - glass like window onto the sky). But it is often stated that polycarbonate requires a minimum 5 degrees fall!  Am I missing something - polycarbonate requires more than 5 times the fall than edpm rubber to shed water?
Would using perspex make any difference?


texts: Hitachi brad nailer - firing it empty against a hard surface

texts: I just bought a brand new Hitachi brad nailer, and part of the "testing process" of ensuring that it operates as normal is when you get it, make sure it fires when the nose is depressed against a surface (among a few other things).  One thing I'm not sure of is when you "test fire" this against a hard surface, whether it be wood or concrete, surely that's not good for the "hammer" in the unit, is it?


texts: Can I add a breaker to my main disconnect panel?

texts:
Next to my meter I have a square d all-in-one combination service entrance device with a service disconnect breaker and a sub panel breaker that must be going to my indoors panel, see attached images.
I'd like to add a 15A or 20A breaker for an additional circuit close to the outdoors disconnect panel. Can I do it?
Some similar questions are:
Can a breaker be added to the main disconnect panel?
Can I add a sub-panel near the main disconnect outside my house?
Add circuit off main disconnect or sub-panel required?
https://answers.angieslist.com/Can-I-add-main-breaker-meter-base-q260655.aspx
https://answers.angieslist.com/Can-I-install-100-amp-breaker-box-garage-coming-200-amp-Meter-box-q239867.aspx
From those it sounds like it should be possible but I'd like a confirmation for my specific setup. Thanks!


texts: Is PVC conduit OK above ground to hook up a Jacuzzi?

texts: We are hooking up a Jacuzzi and need to run # 8 wire above ground What PVC should we use to run under our house to get to the back yard? I have read Schedule 80 PVC will work.


texts: Japanese Appliance has a Green/Yellow Ground Wire coming out of it, What should I do?

texts:
So I recently purchased a Japanese Toiletseat thing (I can't read japanese but I've just been translating little by little), and it has a ground wire (a green/yellow wire) Coming out of the back, right next to the plug.

Should I just ignore it?  On the manual, it says to connect the wire to the ground socket

The power cable & ground wire look just like this:

I am tempted to just shove that thing into a ground socket, or alternatively try to buy an adapter that looks like that outlet, that will plug into a 3 prong socket.


texts: Do I need to remove existing drywall before framing an interior wall?

texts:
Below is a rough diagram of the interior wall I'd like to build.  The wall is in green, and the rooms are in white.  The grey offset around the edges of the walls represents 3/8" drywall.

My question is simple - do I need to remove the drywall where the interior wall will meet the existing framing, or can I just drive framing nails straight through it to pick up the stud on the other side?

What about the top plate?


texts:
I am preparing to install under floor heating film.  The instructions say: Type UF single conductor or equivalent.  I have THWN-2 wire, would anyone consider that equivalent, or can you think of a reason I would not want to use it?

Thanks


texts: Where can I find replacement light bulbs for this bathroom?

texts:
This bathroom had two dead lightbulbs, and two other ones are starting to become dimmer.
However, their shape is rather peculiar, and I've had no luck when looking for an identical replacement online.
Can these bulbs be replaced by a similar-looking equivalent, and which one?


texts: How can i repair a nail head size leak on a vertical cast iron sewer pipe in my basement

texts: House was built in 1958, the pipe is in good shape except for the small rusting now leaking nail size spot. I tried rustoleum, that is not helping. will epoxy work?


texts: Installing a 240V 30 A outlet for EV charging

texts: I would like to install a 240V 30A outlet for EV charging in my deeded parking space in the common basement garage in my condominium building.  The electrical closet with all individual unit electric meters is conveniently adjacent to my deeded parking space.  Rather than drill a hole through a steel reinforced concrete floor from my unit into the garage to run a wire from my in-unit main breaker panel to the EV charging station, can I do the following:  1.  install a new main breaker panel between the unit electric meter (in the electrical closet) and the in-unit breaker panel (thus making the in-unit breaker panel a subpanel); and 2. run a wire from the new main breaker panel (which would be physically located in the electrical closet in which the unit electric meter is located) to supply my 240V 30A EV charging station?  The condominium is located in Cambridge, MA.


texts: Trying to replace my old kitchen gas stove, how to find a replacement?

texts:
I've got an old kitchen gas stove which is built-in the ceramics on my kitchen. It's shape used to be popular in the 90s (rounded corners), however it seems as though these days all stoves come in a rectangular shape. How can I find a gas stove in the same shape to replace my old one? Attached is a photo of my current gas stove.

Thanks.


texts: I recently found a switch outside a storage closet in my garage. No light fixture in that closet. How do I trace that switch?

texts: How do I trace a light switch to it's target?


texts: Why do LED bulbs in my three-bulb fixture remain on unless one is incandescent?

texts: I have a three bulb light fitting that worked fine with 40 watt golf ball bulbs. On removing the bulbs and inserting the first 5.5 watt led the bulb illuminated while the fitting was turned off. This only happened in the one bulb holder the other two worked fine. The fitting now has 2 leds and 1 40 watt bulb and is working fine, any ideas? Cheers


texts: How do I troubleshoot 2 light switches in the same box with 4 black (hot) wires?

texts:
I opened up my bathroom light switch and fan box to replace the switches. The light is for overhead and the fan is a standard bathroom fan.
Inside the box I found 4 sets of wires (1 black, 1 white, 1 ground per set). After measuring the voltage of each black wire, I found all 4 to be hot. When I wired  up the single pole switches (1 black per side of switch with all 4 neutrals pigtailed together), not only did the light and fan not work, several outlets downstream of this particular box did not work. When tested with a 3 light outlet tester, they presented with a “hot/ ground reverse” result. When I tested the voltage of the neutral line in the same outlet, I received a small voltage reading which coincides with a “hot/ground reverse” result.
I did not take a picture of how the switches were initially wired but all 4 hot lines were used and 1 line was strung across the 2 switches (not sure which terminals). The neutrals were all pigtailed together.
I’m not quite sure where to go from here.


texts: How can I improve second floor HVAC performance?

texts:
I have a forced air heating and air conditioning system that performs poorly on the second floor: It is way too warm in the summer and a little too cold in the winter.

I live in a 1920s masonry row house that has one vent going to each of the three upstairs bedrooms and four vents on the first floor. One of the first floor vents is on one of the three ducts leading upstairs.

There is a single 11"x13" return vent at the base of the stairs on the first floor.  There is no return upstairs.

Thinking it was a insulation issue, I had a cellulose blown in the attic a few years back, as this post suggests.  This definitely helped reduce the severity of the issue, but there is still room for improvement.

What remedy / remedies would provide the most benefit?  Feasible remedies I can imagine are:

Install dampers / new registers on first floor to restrict airflow there
Add a second floor return duct (in front or middle bedroom)
Add another upstairs supply duct (in front or middle bedroom)

I have read conflicting reports about whether adding an upstairs supply or return would provide any benefit, and that closing off registers can cause issues.

Below is a quick and dirty diagram of my HVAC system.  The blue rectangles are first floor vents branched off of the trunk in the basement, and the pink rectangles are second floor vents also branched off the trunk in the basement.  The only exception is the overlapping pink and blue vent, where a single branch has a first floor and second floor vent.  All of the vents are on or near the floor.  First floor is open, stairs are open both upstairs and down, and another image showing the upstairs bedrooms is included.