texts: TV Fixings - 40" LED fitted to drywall using one metal stud and snaptoggles is it safe?

texts:
My son has just fitted my new 40" LED TV to drywall.

He did attach a board to the drywall but when he purchased the board he had assumed the metal studs were 18" apart not 24" so only bought a 20" board which wasn't wide enough to span two metal studs.

He fixed one side of the board to a metal stud (not sure which fixings he used in the metal stud but he didn't use the snap toggles I supplied) he then used two snap toggles to fix the other side of the board to drywall.

My TV bracket is a cantilever and only has about a 6" square wall plate which he fixed to the centre of the board (not sure if he used Snap Toggles).

I know Snap Toggles are supposed to be good but my concern is that if only two were used as described will this be enough to support the TV?

The TV seems to be held up really firm and the cantilever action works well but I'm just feeling nervous so I decided to research the fixing of TV's to drywall (I almost wish I hadn't!).

Can you please advise if I could be in trouble? If necessary I could not use the cantilever action as I only want to angle the TV very occasionally.
I'm just dreading being told I need to get in a professional TV installer and have everything replaced. I can't bear to think of the mess it would  make of the walls let alone upsetting my son after all his hard work. No mum likes to upset her son and it would be especially hard considering he is a carpenter.


texts: Is it better to apply one thick or several thin layers of paint

texts:
After hearing endless debates between my wife and myself, my son has decided to settle the question for his Science Fair project next year.  His experiment will determine whether one thick layer paint or several thinner layers of paint is more durable.

Using the tools available to a typical DIY'er, how can he apply a layer of paint with a consistent thickness?  Is there any reasonable way to make sure that the total thickness of the (say three) layers is the same as the one thick layer?


texts: How to repaint lacquered baseboard, trim, doors and stair rail with latex paint

texts:
The window and door trim, baseboards, doors, stair rails and spindles, and mantel in my house were spray painted with a lacquer based paint. What steps should I take to re-paint the brown lacquer with a white latex paint? Must it be spray painted to keep the flat, stroke-free appearance or can I use a good quality roller?

Thank you.


texts:
I would like to intall a bathroom ceiling fan directly over my shower, where there is an existing light that is turned on by an adjacent light switch.  I have several questions regarding this project.  First, I understand the fan will have to be vented to the outside. I currently have an attic vent that will be used for this purpose, so that is not the issue.  My questions are:

1) Can I use the existing wiring for the light to install the fan?  If so, what color wires are what?  Keep in mind this house was built in 1952.
2) I will be replacing the switch with a GFI switch. Are there GFI switches and not just outlets?


texts: What are the advantages of various bathtub materials?

texts:
We're going to be putting in a new tub, and I'm not sure what to get. Cast iron? Enameled steel? Acrylic?

My concern with the cast iron (other than lugging it up the stairs) is the rust problem.

How well does acrylic hold up?


texts: Can I install laminate flooring one room at a time?

texts:
I am thinking about install laminate flooring for my second floor. There are 3 rooms (master, 2 kids rooms) on second floor. The laminate covers all the second floor excepts there are two transition moldings at the doors of two kids rooms.

First, can I move all the furnitures from master room to two kids rooms first, then install the laminate flooring with the same layout up toward the hallway (stop right at the transition molding at the kids rooms). After I finish the master room and hallway laminate floor, then I move all furnitures from kids rooms to master room and work on two rooms' floor? Is this recommended?


texts: Hydronic kickspace heater on same zone as cast iron radiators?

texts:
Small older home that has in-wall cast iron radiators throughout the house in a single zone. Hot water not steam. When the kitchen was remodeled years ago the cast iron radiator was removed because it would have been behind the new fridge location. The idea was that it would be moved to a different location but years later it's still on the todo list.

I have been exploring other options but it seems like the easiest most cost effective thing to do would be to add a kickspace hydronic heater under one of the kitchen cabinets.

Is it okay to mix the kickspace heater on the same single zone as the cast iron radiators?

Some additional info if it factors in... The smallest kickspace heater I can find is almost twice the BTU needed for that room. The 1st floor where the kitchen is is all open and generally colder than upstairs.

The main heating pipe is 1" copper tubing I believe or there abouts. For each cast iron radiator there's a venturi T fitting on the supply and return 1/2" copper piping. I was going to plumb the kickspace heater into the existing supply and return pipes that go to the old radiator which is removed and capped off.


texts: Could a missing ground connection in a light box disable other fixtures?

texts:
I replaced an existing outside light fixture with these security lights. I properly connected the wires together (including ground). After installing I was reading the install instructions a bit closer and they indicated to connect ground to the Cross Bar, which I did not do :( The light is outside of my sun room and it's connected to the same switch (not sure of the term here, but the same breaker switch turns off both).

A few days later I noticed that my two fan+light fixtures in the sun room are not turning on any longer.

Could the fan+light fixtures no longer working be related to me not screwing ground into the cross bar even though I did connect ground wires? If so, is there any dangers that I should be aware of with me trying to connect ground to the Cross Bar now?

This is my first time posting here, I apologize if I've missed any important info or not followed conventions.

Edit for more info from comments:

The security lights themselves work fine
I connected the ground wire from security lights to the ground wire from the existing outlet box


texts: How can I plug my portable generator into a "wall outlet"?

texts: Ok, before everyone starts immediately telling me "NO" let me explain.  I bought a new house last year and the original owner had installed a brown wall outlet in the garage.  Now, there are also 2 brown outlets in the house.  They are different than every other outlet in the house and according to the home inspector have no power that goes to them.  1 of the outlets is behind the fridge and the other is in the hall.  According to the directions in the garage the brown outlet in the garage is where you plug in a generator and it feeds power to the otherwise "dead" outlets indoors.  My problem is how do you plug the generator into the wall outlet?  Can you buy a power cord with 2 male ends?  Also where would I even go to get it?  There is no risk of "backfeeding" because these outlets are not wired into the rest of the home wiring.


texts: Dip in Driveway causing car to bottom out - How to bridge the gap?

texts: New townhome has a steep driveway that leads into a ramp up into the garage. Cars are bottoming out as the wheels go into the dip. Looking for advice on the best way to fill or bridge this gap in order to get cars into the garage.


texts: Any pitfalls to shutting off house water supply while working?

texts:
I want to replace the faucet for my kitchen sink.  The shutoff valves for both hot and cold are stuck open.

I assume I should either try to unfreeze the valves or eventually replace them.

If I'm in a hurry to replace the faucet (it's leaking onto the countertop), is there any reason not to just turn off the house water supply while replacing the faucet?


texts: breaker breaker.. the breaker keeps tripping

texts: I have a bathroom reno, utilizing, a gfi outlet, an exhaust fan, and an over the mirror light fixture.I want them on two switches,(the fan and light) I have a power wire coming into the double box, and a wire for each of the fixtures(light fan, and gfi outlet).I ganged the ground,the white, and black wires together individualy, with a pigtail for each of the two switches.I therefore have...4 ground wires with two pigtails, the four  white wires with two pigtails, (1 to outlet, one to fan, one to light,  the supply wire, and two pigtails, one for each switch)This is repeated with the black wires.(supply wire, outlet,fan and light wires, with a pigtail for each switch. This seems all theoretically sound to me. Why does this set up, keep tripping the breaker?


texts: What material will block/deflect heat from sunlight outdoors for a storage unit?

texts:
did not know where else to post this, but I am sure here someone can help.

Besides insulation such as fiberglass, cellulose, styrofoam, what material similar to maybe a plastic will not absorb heat or deflect it in order to build something. Styrofoam seems to be the best after my research but it will crack or not last.

Something that I can use to build a medium size storage unit outdoors that will not break if wind throws objects around such as small rocks during storms. This way the contents of the storage will stay fairly warm (maybe 80-85) and not 102 degrees Fahrenheit.

Also something shiny would hurt the eyes/be difficult to look at outdoors if the entire structure was made with reflective sheets so reflective aluminum is not an option and there are no trees around.

Right now I have a plastic storage unit and the temp. will go above 100 Fahrenheit (I used a thermometer to check). So in a nutshell, I would like to build a big box that resists/deflects/does not absorb heat with durable lightweight material.

Thanks!


texts: What type of sealant/caulk is this used on inside corner of shower frame rail?

texts:
Does anybody know if this is just a clear silicone caulk or something else? Lexel? It doesn't go all the way into the gap where the vertical and horizontal shower frame rails meet, which I want to be able to replicate, and it feels almost like rubber.

It was also laid in a very thin layer between the inside and outside of the tub, how were they (home builders) able to do this?

I would like to use this same exact material when redoing the other shower. Thank you.


texts: How should I increase pressure in a Glow Worm Micron 50FF?

texts:
My Glow Worm Micron 50FF boiler's pressure was yesterday reading at a pressure of 1 (mbar or PSI -- not sure which) but the red fixed line shows as 2. I had a look in the manual and it suggested that it should be at 2 too.

So, I did what I thought was right an twisted the red know next to the pressure gauge to increase the pressure but it seemed to drop (now a 0.9).

How do you increase the pressure in one of these systems (we haven't lived here long)?

We have:

Glow Worm Micron 50FF
Gledhill SysteMate 2000

Pictures of the components of our system:

The red knob, gauge and what appears to be a drainage tap.

The whole SysteMate 2000.

Small tank on top of the SysteMate 2000.

SysteMate 2000 instructions label.

Valve / tap on tank.

Any help would be much appreciated.


texts: Is there software that can optimally determine how to cut sheets of plywood for a project?

texts:
I want to build some porch planters out of sheets of plywood, but I'm trying to minimize the number of sheets of plywood I buy.

Is there software that will let me enter all my planter designs and then have it spit out the sheets of plywood with their cuts? Does software exist that converts a project design/CAD('ish) drawing to bill of materials?


texts: Grounding subpanel to box - 'tap threads'

texts: I've installed a subpanel and need to ground the grounding bar to the actual panel box.  I was instructed to run a #6 jumper to a hole on the box, attach with a screw, making sure to 'tap threads'.  Unfamiliar with the term 'tap threads', what do I need to know?


texts: How many holes can a masonry drill bit make?

texts:
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm fairly new to DIY.

I keep reading how masonry drill bits wear down quickly. As I'm preparing for a day of serious hammer drilling dozens of holes into concrete walls at a remote location, I'm wondering how many drill bits I need to bring. How many holes can a single masonry drill bit realistically be expected to make before needing replacement?

I have searched the web and YouTube for all kinds of phrases and terms, but can't seem to find any quality assessments the same way as for example screwdriver bits are often tested.

I realize the answer relies heavily on the quality of the bit, proper usage, etc. But I really have no idea right now. I'm intending to buy Irwin SpeedHammer bits, which I believe are a reasonable quality. I will try to prevent bits from getting too hot.

Should I expect 10 holes? 100? 1000?

Any guidance would be appreciated.


texts: Can I properly install Roxul mineral wool batts in a mostly-drywalled stud bay by pushing them up from below?

texts:
Using my nifty thermal camera, I discovered that my furnace closet's combustion air duct (visible in this question) is getting really hot when the attic heats up, and then (being sheet metal) it radiates that heat into the furnace closet. Here's the combustion air duct:

The furnace closet has no insulation to thermally separate it from the rest of the house, so the obvious thing happens: the heat escapes. Here's a thermal view of the wall closest to the duct when it's hot out:

In order to combat this heat transfer, I would like to insulate the stud walls that frame the furnace closet, which are currently empty. The furnace closet sits above a return air plenum that is un-drywalled, giving me a place where I could stuff something rigid or semi-rigid up into the cavities from the bottom. I am considering using Roxul mineral wool insulation batts, which I hear are more rigid and dimensionally stable than fiberglass batts. Would this work? are they rigid enough that I could actually stuff them up into the cavity? Or would this be a waste of time and money because they'll just snag and compress?

In addition, would a radiant barrier help? (asked as a separate question)

Before anyone asks, I don't want to fill the stud bays with loose fill cellulose because it would require drywalling and sealing the open sections in the return air plenum and blowing the material in from the attic, which is scary and I don't like to go up there. It's also flammable and it would be used to insulate a furnace closet, after all.


texts: Ceiling fan capacitor acceptable alternative?

texts: I need to replace the capacitor on my ceiling fan. It's 5 wire 4.5 microfarad 350 volts 6 microfarad 250 volts 6 microfarad 250 volts. The closest 5 wire replacement I can find is 4.5 microfarad 250 volts, not 350, but the rest is the same, 6 microfarad 250 volts 6 microfarad 250 volts.  Is this replacement acceptable? I have 120 volt supply. Thank you.


texts:
A friend wants to paint the ceramic tile around her fireplace including some of the tiles on the floor in front of it. If those floor tiles get just a little foot traffic, is ceramic tile paint strong enough to weather the wear and tear? She said that "the tiles in front of
the fireplace really do not get walked on that much, occasionally when people put their shoes there when they come in the house but no high traffic." Ceramic tile paint is an epoxy and epoxy paints are used in shower and tub refinishing and those can (theoretically) withstand a beating, if not harsh chemicals. What do the experts think?


texts: Can I just glue the "fin" thing back onto my dryer?

texts:
Not sure the right name of the part, but it's one of the "fins" on the inside. One of them came off, and looking at it tells me there were screws going through the drum to hold it in. The screws fell out, and are presumably inside the dryer somewhere.

So basically two questions:

Is it going to cause problems if I just leave the screws inside the
dryer?
Can I just use superglue or something to put that "fin" back
in place?

Bonus Question: If I'm way better off getting the screws out and actually screwing it back in, how difficult would that be? Should I just find a repairman?


texts: Shouldn't a kitchen 'fridge be on it's own circuit?

texts:
I thought major appliances like refrigerators in newer houses were supposed to be on dedicated circuits.

I just replaced a melted outlet in my kitchen. It was a 15 amp outlet, wired as a pass-through using the screw terminals. The outlet says "For 15A branch circuits only". (The breaker on this circuit is 20A)

The same circuit powers the fridge, 2 outlets in the kitchen (one of which powers a toaster), a couple of outlets in the laundry room, and outlet on the floor in the kitchen. I haven't traced the wiring for certain but I'm pretty sure the fridge and toaster outlets pass through the outlet that melted.

I replaced the outlet and re-wired it using pig-tails rather than pass-through, but if the outlet says "For 15A branch circuits only" that sure sounds to me like it's not rated to be anywhere on a 20A circuit.

So my questions are 2:

Should a house built in 2000 in Fairfax county, Virginia have a large refrigerator on a shared circuit? (It was built to order by a supposedly well-regarded builder.)

Is there any way it's ok to have an outlet that says "For 15A branch circuits only" wired into a 20A circuit? Somebody on another thread here said something like "All 15A outlets are rated for 20A pass-through" but an outlet that is explicitly labeled as only for 15A circuits sure seems like it doesn't belong on a 20A circuit.


texts: Does a Skylight need to be installed with the dedicated flashing system

texts:
I'm looking at this product

for a garden office roof but I could not find the corresponding flashing kit for the roof material I was planning to use, which is this:

The closest type of flashing I could find was this

but I'm not sure if it would be suitable for the chosen roofing material?


texts: How can you rid your house of 'Sick Building Syndrome'?

texts:
It's a rite of passage - You and your spouse are expecting, and it's your responsibility to paint the baby's room.

But before you do so, make sure that you use only latex/low VOC paint, keep the room well-ventilated for at least a few days, and try to keep the pregnant mother away from the room while you're doing work.

Well, I did all of that. Unfortunately, my wife appears to be experiencing 'Sick Building Syndrome'.

My Question: How can I remedy this situation? Can I buy an appliance to rid the air of harmful particles? Can I hire a professional to clean the air?

Also, please bear in mind, I'm not experiencing any discomfort myself. My wife however, has a dry cough, some asthma symptoms, and a burning sensation in her eyes.


texts: How can I connect a WIFI thermostat to a Honeywell R845A switching relay?

texts:
I'm trying to install a wifi thermostat and it won't power up. The old thermo was battery operated 2 wire but there were spare wires. At the R845A relay, red and white whites connect to terminals 5 and 6, red and white also connect to the 2 T terminals. I ran a jumper connecting the blue (common). In the relay, I get 24 volts across 5-6. and 24v between the white wire and common. 0v between red and common. At the thermostats I get 4-10 v between red and common,14v white-common, and 24v r-w.
As I say the thermo doesn't work and any help will be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I don't know the exact term for the part I'm referring to so I'll describe it.
The faucet's actual closing is done by something similar to this but without the slits for water. I assume that's called the cartridge.

It presses against a part inside the faucet that is basically the ending of a pipe.

The end of the cartridge is like a disk of rubber (with no hole), and the pipe is metal.

The problem is that the pipe somehow got a small groove (from the inside to the outside, though on its ending surface) so though the cartridge stops water from coming straight out the pipe, there is some coming out "sideways", which manifests itself externally, as a slow drip.

Pipe-ending and groove (exaggerated):

Closing the faucet handle very tight stops that drip, but ruins the rubber part, and after some time, I need to buy a new cartridge.

Is there a way of sealing the groove or the fixing the rubber disk, or do I have to buy a new faucet? This is for drinking/cooking, so I don't want to seal it with something that might come off.


texts:
TL;DR: Can you terminate more than one common on the furnace C terminal?

Background:

I've linked a diagram of how my non-programmable thermostat is currently hooked up. I want to replace it with a Trane Z-Wave thermostat that requires constant power. There's already a blue wire in the 18/5 bundle, but it's disconnected on both ends. The C terminal on the furnace control board is already in use by the rooftop condenser. If possible, I'd like to connect the blue wire to the stat and terminate it on the same C terminal on the furnace that is already in use by the A/C.

Some model numbers:

Furnace: Goodman GKS9 Gas Furnace with A/C (CAPF) - manual(PDF)
Old stat: Honeywell TH3210D1004 non-programmable
New stat: Trane TZEMT400BB3 Z-Wave


texts: How to fix a crack in laminate countertop

texts:
I just finished installing mitered Formica counter-tops for the first time.  After I was all finished I realized I must have cracked the laminate when I was hammering to make things flush where the two mitered counter-tops are joined together.  The crack is about 3 inches long towards the back.  It's not extremely noticeable but it's driving me nuts.  Can this be fixed with some type of seam filler?  I'll upload a picture tomorrow if need be.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Do I have to connect the grounding electrode at a detached garage to the grounding electrode at the main structure?

texts:
Article 250.32(A) of the National Electrical Code, tells us that we need a grounding electrode at a detached garage.  It also says that it has to be "installed in accordance with Part III of Article 250.".

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection
Article 250 Grounding and Bonding
250.32 Buildings or Structures Supplied by a Feeder(s) or Branch Circuit(s).
(A) Grounding Electrode. Building(s) or structure(s) supplied by feeder(s) or branch circuit(s) shall have a grounding electrode or grounding electrode system installed in accordance with Part III of Article 250. The grounding electrode conductor(s) shall be connected in accordance with 250.32(B) or (C). Where there is no existing grounding electrode, the grounding electrode(s) required in 250.50 shall be installed.

Then the first part of Part III of Article 250 says, "All grounding electrodes...  ...that are present at each building or structure served shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system.".

III. Grounding Electrode System and Grounding Electrode Conductor
250.50 Grounding Electrode System. All grounding electrodes as described in 250.52(A)(1) through (A)(7) that are present at each building or structure served shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system. Where none of these grounding electrodes exist, one or more of the grounding electrodes specified in 250.52(A)(4) through (A)(8) shall be installed and used.

Does that mean that the electrode(s) at the garage, has to be connected back to the electrode(s) at the main structure?


texts: I've dealt with a little bit of plumbing fixing toilet valves, but now my main water shut-off valve seems to be leaking in a very particular spot. Not sure what steps I should take to resolve this one or at least remedy it in the near future. I'm going to try duck taping it, but I just wondering if there is something else I should be doing.


texts: How to fence corners on a lot that is not square?

texts:
I'm interested in installing a wood privacy fence myself. I've watched a bunch of tutorials and feel pretty confident with the process except for one thing. Everything I've seen talks about squaring up the corners, however, my lot is not square.  How do you do corners that are less than 90 degrees (corners B or D) or more than 90 degrees (corners A or C)? I'm also a little stumped about what to do with corner C. Would the post go on the outside of the fence?

Update: Thanks everyone for your input. There were a lot of comments about building a fence on the easement. The permit was previously approved even with the fence going over the easement.  However, I've reached out the utility companies and they said I might not be able to put the fence on the easement but they were going to review my plat of survey and maybe come do a site visit. So, I called my village permitting department  and they said that it's my property so I can put the fence there regardless of what the utility companies say. That response seems a little strange to me, so I'm not sure what the outcome will be. My backdoor neighbor already has a fence along the back of my lot so I figured it wouldn't be a big deal. I would consider using their fence instead of building my own, but it's a two rail split rail fence and won't really do a good job at keeping the dog in.


texts: Is it okay to use both the backwire holes and the side terminals on an electrical outlet?

texts:
I'm tying into an existing outlet box to provide power for a new electrical outlet. The existing outlet already has 2 lines connected to it - one from "upstream" (to the fuse box) and one downstream to more outlets. The existing lines are connected to the "quick connect" holes in the back of the outlet, leaving 2 open terminals on each side of the outlet. Is it okay to connect the third new line to the side terminals, and the new ground wire in with the other two grounds?

So the new setup would consist of this:

2 lines (2 white + 2 black wires) connected through the backwiring holes
1 line (1 white + 1 black wire) connected via the side terminals (black on "long" side, white on "short" side).
all three lines' ground wires pigtailed, with the pigtail connected to the one ground terminal on the outlet.


texts: An electrician used 12/2/2 for a home run to the south side of my garage from my garage breaker panel. Not being connected to a breaker yet, can I use this wire for 6- 110 outlets and also 2-220 outlets? Also, wouldn't I need to connect the wire at the breaker box to a dual 20 amp bridged breaker?


texts: Planning a new roof for future roof mounted equmpment

texts:
I am in the planning phase of a major remodel. Two of the biggest changes will be to completely removing fireplace/chimney and replace a flat roof with a pitched roof.
The new roof will mostly use hip to maximize solar coverage. With gables on the shady north ends, garage, and front porch. I recently realized my old roof has plenty of options to mount satellite dishes, antennas, or other roof mounted equipment; and mostly hidden from view.
The new roof is planned to be a solar tile roof (ex: https://www.tesla.com/solarroof), as it is more cost effective and aesthetic than roof + solar panels. If I don't plan anything, my only option would be to anchor the mount posts under the eaves. I'm not planning to put anything up yet, but I want to have the option in the future.
I am looking for ideas/strategies/inspiration for how to plan my roof with the option to mount equipment in the future without it being an eyesore. When I searched online, I only found resources dealing with mount points for existing roofs. I then realized my roof design will not have good spots to mount over-the-are TV antenna, outdoor WiFi, and tech that might become mainstream in the next 25+ years.
I'm trying to future poof my house with adequate flexibility for my future needs. Ex: solar power for increasing energy cost and more frequent rolling blackouts. Route conduits for network/coax/fiber/etc instead of stapling. Ready to mount equipment on the roof is simply forward looking.
I'm kinda thinking fake chimney or fake vents with conduit access in the attic space might be an option. Not sure if there are better ideas or unforeseen challenges.
About the house and environment:

Corner lot, front of the house on the long side.

I notices barely anyone installs satellite dishes or antennas on the street facing walls or roof. If they do they try to hide it. It is always off to the side or in the back of the house. Not sure if this is only for aesthetics or some ordinance I haven't read yet.

Floor plan is a squished U shaped with courtyard in the empty space.
Front of the house is one the longest side and is facing south-southeast.
Single story house, but planning to add an ADU above the garage.
Old fireplace and chimney will be removed.
The new roof will have a 6:12 pitch. (compromise of solar efficiency, matches neighborhood, and wife's preferences)
Planning a solar tile roof (i.e. the solar panels integrated into the shingles, ex: https://www.tesla.com/solarroof).

More cost effective, aesthetics, and faster ROI than roof + solar panels
Harder to make future modifications to the roof. Drilling could be an electrical/fire hazard.

The planned north side gable wall can be used to mount a satellite TV dish with a good view of the southern sky.

The same spot probably will not work for over-the-air TV because 10 feet away is my neighbor's two story stucco wall in the same direction as the broadcast towers.
A bit of a mystery how well this spot will work for 5G home internet, non-geosynchronous low-earth-orbit satellite connection, or what ever future tech might exist years from now.

We get about 25 inches of rain a year. No snow. Occasionally frosty mornings. On rare occasions hail smaller then a marble. Mostly sunny days.


texts: Which current will pass through the relay when the generator and main supply are on?

texts:
I installed a relay for switching purpose With main supply and Generator. When there is no electricity from main supply relay change its coil to the generator.
 I want to know which will be the source of electricity when both the generator and main supply is providing electrical energy to relay.

The person installed a relay is electrician. I was preferring the Changover Switch (manual) for generator, main supply and cut out power (OFF). But he said after starting the generator you have to change the changover switch manually. By relay you only have to ON or OFF the generator and Relay will automatically trip the coil when there is main line power and if there is no main line power by starting generator it trip the coil and power will be of generator.
 I am confused that when both main line and generator are giving power to relay what will relay decide, which power it will transfer to home appliances.

I am confused what should I do now, Am I at risk what are the cons or what he did is right?

Examples:

http://emotorwerks.com/JuiceBox_Public/99%20.../JQX-62F%20Power%20Relay.pdf
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JQX-62F-2Z-80A-220V-Coil-High-Power-Relay-220V-AC-/110763651883
http://www.google.com.pk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0ahUKEwiPotP6rLXTAhWLPBQKHbMSBmoQFggwMAY&url=http%3A%2F%2Femotorwerks.com%2FJuiceBox_Public%2F99%2520-%2520Supporting%2520materials%2FJQX-62F%2520Power%2520Relay.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGNfAAdkUrh6merIsgMaAPEDNioHA


texts:
I want to swap out a light switch with a sensor switch in my boiler room but I'm not sure how to wire it. I took out the old switch expecting to find 3 wires connects: a metal ground, a white return, and a black hot. Instead, all of the White returns are capped together in the box and two black wires are connected to the switch.

I tried wiring the sensor in the same way and it was on for a while but wouldn't switch off when I pressed the plate under the sensor. Then, it did go off and now won't turn on any more. Here's what the new switch looks like:
-- photos deleted because I don't have enough karma to post more than 2 links --

And, this is what the inside of the box looks like:

My guess is either the sensor switch is defective or I wired it wrong and it's defective now ;p

Any help in understanding this wiring would be appreciated. The whole house is like this and I want to replace this switch and put a dimmer in the nursery. I've just never seen a setup with what looks like 2 hot wires and no return.

Thanks!


texts: How to wire 2 gang smart switch with two neutral wires and wire connecting both COMM

texts:
I am finding it hard to find a diagram for my specific case. I have 2 gang light switch and I would like to replace it with a smart switch. I have attached images
Am I right in saying the left COM goes in L. The wire connecting the two COMs is discarded? The wire going into the left '1WAY' goes in L1, the right '1WAY' goes in L2. Both neutral wires go in N
Thank you in advance for any help on this


texts: Can I add an electrical outlet from a light switch box?

texts: I had sconces in bathroom that also had plugs attached.  Replaced sconces now there are no electrical outlets. Is it possible to run an outlet off of the light switch to the side or below existing light switch?


texts: Can I use a clamp meter to identify wires running to overhead fan?

texts: I have this mess of wires in a junction box of a stucco house (built 30 years ago).  Couple of these are going to the overhead fan in the room.  Will a simple clamp meter help me identify the relevant wires?


texts: Attaching small, nearly zero weight cable clips directly to drywall without anchors

texts:
My project runs about 30ft of ethernet cable along garage (interior) walls. I have 5mm plastic R-Style clips and I need to put about 1 per foot (at least 30 clips).

I'm looking for something that I can attach these neatly without having to drive in anchors on every stop or comply with stud positions in the cable run. Maybe a product or fastener I've never heard of that you all may know about.

Alternatively, I'll just do my best to line them up with the studs or deal w/ anchors. Thanks for any ideas.


texts: What can I fill my deck beam trench with to prevent standing water?

texts:
I am in the process of building a multi level deck where the second level would be low to grade.
As such, i had to dig some trenches (about 10-12" deep) as part of the beams will be below grade.
My issue is that since the ground is full of clay, this will cause a drainage issue within the trench whenever there is hard rain (see attached picture).
What can I fill this trench with to prevent standing water as well as not impact the beams from any heaving?


texts: I am building a pergola. What size of beam will span 20 feet. There will be no load on the beam aside from the weight of the beam itself

texts: This is my first time here and I have looked at other questions regarding pergolas. However, my situation is unique. There will be no load on the beams. The pergola is 20 foot x 20 foot. It only contains 4 posts and 4 beams. There will be no rafters or lattices.


texts: Protecting 3/16" wire rope going through poles?

texts:
We have 3/16" wire rope (1/8" covered to 3/16") that will be going through several poles. Something like this:

How can I protect the vinyl coating from being cut if/when it rubs against the hole edge? This should also cover the hole so that water doesn't go into the pole.

Thanks.


texts: Can I add a 240v outlet inline with a sub-panel supply circuit?

texts:
I have a 30 amp 2 pole breaker in my main panel (in garage) that supplies a sub panel in my small workshop (back yard) ~ 100 ft run 4 wire 10GA. for 15 amp outlets.

In order to add this 30 amp circuit, I had to replace several of my 15 amp singles with 15 amp tandem breakers to make room.

I would like to add a 240v outlet near my main breaker panel in the garage for a welder.  Can I add this inline with the sub panel circuit, or would it have to have it's own 2 pole breaker too?

Thank you,
Aaron


texts: What's the proper way to leave extra length of wire going into electrical panel?

texts:
I'm remodeling my fixer house, and I plan to install an electrical panel in an unfinished basement. At some point (hopefully in the near future), I'll finish the basement space.  This will add thickness to the walls (insulation and framing).

If I want to move my panel from the unfinished wall to the finished wall, what's the proper/correct way to allow for the extra length of wiring I'll need to account for the change in depth (about 4-6")? I'm interested in both accounting for extra length in branch circuits as well as the feeder cables coming into my house.  Citations of relevant sections of Code are appreciated.


texts:
I just purchased a home and it needs a good painting (interior). A little research led me to a thread stating that Benjamin Moore has the best paint. How does it compare to Lowe's and Home Depot paints?

Does the brand really matter?

What are the qualities of a top end paint versus a low end paint?

Update

A link to top 8 interior paints.


texts: How do I cable up a 10kw generator to my house from garage?

texts:
I have an 8kw propane or 10kw gas generator in the back of the garage. It has a 50 amp hook up so I have run 6/3 w/g wire to a weatherhead. I have the hook up for the 6/3 w/g service cable. Now, I am looking at running the service to the house & straight down the wall to a junction box in the basement.
The question is do I have to cut the service cable at the house or is there something like Chinese fingers to wrap it at the house, then go down, or run a steel cable from the garage to the house? What do I use to hold up the service cable on the steel wire?


texts: Is there any benefit to tripping a GFCI receptacle when it's not in use?

texts:
I have a few outdoor GFCI receptacles. (They are on different circuits.) I probably use these receptacles for 2 hours in a given year. In other words, I rarely use these receptacles.

Keep in mind that, because of the harsh conditions of the elements, outdoor GFCI receptacles lose their GFCI abilities much sooner than their indoor counterparts.

Each GFCI receptacle has a "TEST" button that one can use (in conjunction with the "RESET" button) to ensure that the GFCI circuitry inside of the receptacle is still functional.

Should I press the "TEST" button on the outdoor GFCI receptacles, in order to effectively "turn them off", when they are not in use? Specifically, will I prolong the life of the GFCI circuitry by doing this?

If not, isn't it generally safer to "turn off" an outdoor GFCI outlet when it is not in use (which is over 99% of the time), especially considering things like humidity?

I don't mind having to press the RESET button (to restore power to the receptacle) the one or two times a year that I need to use the receptacle...


texts: How can I improvise a kids double bunker bed?

texts: I have a small bedroom and two single beds on ensemble. I want to fit them in the corner in an L shape but on top of each other. This means part of one bed will go underneath the other one. My local hardware shop said i need very strong platform to support the top bed. I dont have the skills but a thought came to me that I can use a dinning table as the platform. Its strong and will not collapse. Does anyone have another solution?


texts: Can I remove a padlock tab in my breaker panel to allow fitment of an interlock device?

texts:
I have a Challenger service panel outside with a main qfp-150-2 pole breaker and it has 4 breaker bus bars below. Two slots will hold a double pole 30 AMP breaker to backfeed the panel from a generator.

I am using an interlock kit to prevent the main and Generator breaker from both being on at the same time. The problem I am having is that there is a tab to fasten a pad lock on the right hand side of the toggle on the main breaker that is in the way of the interlock.

Can this tab be remove (cut off) or is that a code violation of the NEC. I live in South Florida.


texts: Need help identifying sillcock valve manufacturer / model

texts:
I want to replace the stem of a frost-free (sillcock) valve; it appears to be 6in. I don't want to replace the whole thing, as it is in a difficult-to-access place. The valve wast installed about 15 yrs ago; I could not identify it by searching google images. The far end of the stem is not round; it appears vaguely triangular.

I am attaching my photos.

I could not find any markings anywhere on the stem; the body of the valve has the UPC mark and characters L.T. above. The backflow protector is B.K. / Mueller, but I am not sure the rest is by Mueller as their sillcock stems (that I could find pictures of) look different.

Any advice on who might be the manufacturer of the valve would be much appreciated.

Dmitri


texts: Why is newly applied asphalt not smooth?

texts:
I finally decided to hire professionals to fix my driveway rather than trying to excavate it myself.

This is a newly repaved piece of the driveway:

I would expect it to be smooth and even, am I missing something? This is after the finished layer was applied, but it looks and feels somewhat rocky.

Should a newly repaved asphalt driveway (done right) look like that?


texts: How bad is the seam on my quartz kitchen countertops?

texts: How bad is this seam on my quartz kitchen countertops? I am not sure if this is normal or how bad this is. I know there is usually a seam but this seems a little big to me.


texts: Daisy Chain 120V Disconnect Box from existing 240V box

texts:
I have an existing AC unit that hooks up to a 3 wire 240V 30amp disconnect box serviced by a 30 amp two pole breaker. I am adding a small 120V two wire mini split AC right next to it and I would like to use the existing 240v circuit. The mini split requires a minimum 15 amp circuit with a 20amp fuse.
Would it be possible to add a second disconnect box and daisy chain one of the live 120V wires and the neutral from the existing box over to the new box?
I will not use the existing AC and the mini split at the same time ever, but I do not want to replace the existing 30amp disconnect because I do run the existing AC once or twice a year for maintenance purposes. I would disconnect the existing AC the majority of the time.
Is this feasible? Is there an easier/better way?


texts: What kind of wax to use on birch/pine wood?

texts:
So I am completely new to any kind of woodworking (as in this is the first thing I have attempted), and overall I am very newbie to doing stuff.

So right now I have a birch wood panel, with 2 pine planks on the side and a heavier wood plank on top (meant to be a sort of shelf to cover an area). I should have thought about keeping same type of wood but this won't be visible much and won't be used except to put some light things on top.

The front view will look something like:

_____________
|===:===:===|
|===:===:===|
|===:===:===|
|===:===:===|

the | on each side are the pine planks
: are smaller birch wood peices
= are horizontal birch wood planks
and _ is the heavier wood (oak?) on top.

I am going to glue/screw stuff together. Will be sanding down the birch wood peices since they have wax/finish on them.

This brings me to my question - After I put all that stuff together, how do I put wax/finish on all of it. It will be covering an old/ugly radiator cover so it will be near radiator (but it won't be incredibly hot since it's not that close to it and there is plenty of space for heat to escape).

I am looking for minimum effort/cost but I want to make sure that the finish won't get ruined after 1 heating season.

Just to re-iterate there is already a metal radiator cover on top of radiator, so I am not afraid of wood burning or anything like that. This would sit on top of the metal cover ~half an inch space between metal cover and wood).


texts: I need advice on replacing a rotten Marvin window sill. It is a three-piece sash window with heavy mullions. Diagram of mullion to sill would also be useful. Thanks


texts: Will the current drywall look better after I texture it?

texts: We are in the middle of a project where new drywall is going up on three walls. The current walls does have some screw holes that I would fill. The taped joints are bubbling up so not a clean looking wall at all. I will be doing a slapbrush texture on the new wall and this current wall so it matches the rest of the house. Will this help hide these joints? Or am I just wasting my time and I should replace this wall too?


texts: Are rechargeable 9-volt batteries suitable for use in smoke detectors?

texts:
Lithium-Ion rechargeable 9V batteries are now readily available.

Are they appropriate for use with hardwired smoke detectors, which typically use 9V batteries as battery backups?

What about for use as primary power in battery-powered smoke detectors?


texts: For new construction, which flooring is greener: laminate or engineered?

texts: For new construction, which flooring is greener, an engineered hardwood or a laminate.


texts: Competing conditioned/combustion air flow; worry about CO?

texts:
My home has a partially-below grade basement that has a "Wave" ventilation system that brings cool, conditioned air in from the main house. The basement has an equipment room containing an oil burning furnace for heat and hot water, which draws fresh air from outside via a wall vent and which is well-sealed from the rest of the basement (by a security door with a rubber gasket).

The issue I am having is that the equipment room has a large amount of wasted space (6ft by 10ft) that I'd like to use for my server/networking/audio gear, but the room is consistently nearly 90 degrees (the furnace heats our water and runs basically 24/7/365).

I would like to open up the room to introduce cool, conditioned air into it, but I am super worried that the Wave fan (which is pretty powerful) is going to instead draw products of combustion/carbon monoxide into the basement living space.

Does anyone have any ideas?  I was thinking a fan in the wall to pull air into the room, but then worry that failure of the fan would cause a reversal of the air flow direction and suck out CO.

Here is a not-to-scale drawing.  Thanks!!


texts:
Roof high side

Window __o  o  o  o  o__ Door
         o--|--|--|--o
         o--|--|--|--o
         o  o  o  o  o

         Roof low side

I'm planning a soundproof shed using pine posts, laid out in 3.6x2.7m as above. Grid = roof struts.

Each post is +-10cm diameter, each gap is 75cm. Wall plan is immutable (give or take a few cm). Height is 1.8m on high side and 1.7m on low side of roof (tilt is for rain, no snow here). Treated pine posts are cheap, and good for years in this mild coastal climate.

Noise insulation is key, as I'll be using powertools in the shed. Wall sections will be filled with sand; and posts should transfer vibration into the turf. I also want to prevent roof and floor from leaking much noise. Ventilation being at odds with noise and water proofing, I have some misgivings about this.

Floor seems to offer two options, either enclose wall sections...

right down to the ground, with packed sand inside to maybe 10cm + fine gravel or pavers on top, or
leaving 10-15cm space at bottom and do floorboards / joists up to same height, for air underflow.

Ceiling noise reduction is more of a challenge, as noise out the top may travel. Should be lightweight as possible. Grid shows where roofing posts could be laid using saddle notches, sectioning the roof. Insulation then goes into those sections (about 10cm high given post widths), or on top of framework.

How would you soundproof this? Bonus points: How would you soundproof this while optionally allowing natural light in through the roof on days where noise is less of an issue?

Note I am not in UK/US/CA/AU or the like, so no highly specialised solutions, please.


texts: How can I stop gurgling at discharge outlet from sump pump?

texts:
I had a sump pump installed. Approximately a year later, after the pump runs, there is a loud gurgling noise accompanied by vibration from the pipes. During high water seasons, this leads to a constant and annoying gurgling sound.

The sump pump line goes (relatively) straight up ~8'.  The check valve is located ~4' above the pump.  Once the line hits the ceiling it runs horizontally ~15' then turns right 90 degrees, drops 6" to get under the beams, runs horizontally another 6' and then descends at ~45 degrees another 2' to where it turns left and exits through the foundation.

The gurgling seems to occur in the descent to the exit point through the foundation (based on sound and feeling the gurgles in the pipe).  It doesn't seem that this would be due to a failing check valve because of it's young age and that the noise doesn't seem to originate near the valve (unless it's losing a necessary vacuum).

How can I reduce this noise?


texts: How far away from the wall should ceiling heat registers be?

texts: I'm installing ceiling heating registers.  Are they required to be a certain distance from the wall?


texts:
I'm installing a sink in a 3x4 powder room. There's no room for pedestal or legs, so it must be a wall mount. The chosen sink has no overflow. I'm in Toronto, Canada.

How would I install the sink? What type of bracket? hinges? And plumbing pipe?


texts:
We bought our 20 year old house in Fishers, IN (northeast Indy suburb) this past summer. Three days after moving in, we had the last of the bad summer storms. One of the pumps in our Triple Safe sump system had failed, and we had about 2–3 feet of carpet along the entire east wall saturated. In addition to sump overflow, we also saw evidence of water entering between the wall and slab. We decided to replace 2/3 of the interior drain tile.

Once that was opened up, they discovered our footer cracked in multiple locations, separating from the wall. 9 low profile piers later, the job was completed and restoration in place.

Christmas weekend was rather wet. We were out of town and when we got home we realized that power had been lost at some point. No problem, though, because we have a standby generator (never had one before). Well, the standby generator didn't start because whoever touched it last put the lid on backwards, choking the engine of air. This time, the entire carpet was soaked.

We've now installed a new (better) generator and put both of the AC pumps in the basement on it (only one was on previously). Before we do any restoration, I want to be sure we've got things figured out.

Water is entering our sump pit every 12 seconds (from the time the primary pump shuts off to the time it starts again). 12 seconds!

I've unplugged the pumps to see what happens. The flow hits a point of stasis (or at least slows significantly) maybe 3–4 inches below the level of the slab.

Has anyone had experience with that much flow?

The sump discharges to a 4" PVC pipe that goes directly to a storm beehive about 15–20 feet away in my yard.

I am at a loss. I feel duped by the seller, duped by the home inspector, and we're left with 1/3 less of the house that we bought.

Any help or advice anyone can offer is appreciated.


texts: We recently added wooden flooring to our stairs. I'm looking for a trim to add between the stairs and the wall. Something that I can cut easily and glue and then caulk. I'll need to edge it (rounded?) for the lip of the stairs and angle the inside to join up with the vertical. Is there anything made for this application?


texts: Will my stove's pilot light ignite automatically when the gas is turned back on?

texts: I shut off the gas valve going to my stove because the top was getting too hot when off. I know its supposed to be warm because of the pilot lights but this was hot. I suspect the pilot light is cranked up too high. I'm going to have my landlord look at it. My question is, if I turn the gas back on, do the pilot lights automatically re-light?


texts: The river rock floor that was installed in my shower has some areas that can be uncomfortable on the feet where the rocks are somewhat pointy. Any ideas on if it's possible to grind these pointy areas down? I was thinking of using a diamond grinding cup on an angle grinder. But I'm also thinking this could go horribly wrong if it yanks rocks out of the floor and sends them crashing into the tile. Any hope for this?


texts: Upgrade bathroom light and separate exhaust fan

texts: I Have a small bathroom and it has a light that is separate from the exhaust fan. I want to upgrade it to a light and fan combo. Can this be done easily without having to go into the attic? I currently have the original exhaust fan from when the house was built in 1966. I already have three light switches in the bathroom.


texts: Old washing machine trips 20 amp GFCI outlet but never trips 20 amp breaker: ok to install 30 amp GFCI outlet?

texts:
A sturdy old washing machine draws more than 20 amps mid-cycle when Rinse starts.  Repairman says the brushes on the washer motor are probably a bit worn, so it draws a bit more than 20 amps when starting up while heavy with water in basket.

Local Code now requires GFCI outlet because of water supply nearby.  Since the 20 amp breaker still never trips at the panel (I tested this by powering it via extension cord from non-GFCI outlet), it seems like the GFCI is designed to be more "touchy" than the breaker. I replaced the GFCI outlet once, but no joy.

Motors for a 25 year-old machine are hard to come by.

Is it ok to install a 30 amp GFCI outlet on a 20 amp circuit?

Just trying to avoid replacing a reliable analog machine that seems built to outlast me.  Thank you.


texts: How to reduce the width of a rolling curtain?

texts:
Roll-up window shades come in certain widths x heights, 180x210 cm, 120x160 cm, etc.
They are made of some kind of fabric rolled up in an aluminum tube.

To adjust their width to fit your window frame you probable have to saw the aluminum tube and cut the fabric.

The biggest challenge is to make a straight cut, without releasing the fabric from the tube. It's even more difficult when it's a double layered plastic drape

Are there any tips in how to make the perfect cut for this kind of shade?


texts: Holes in gas grill burner replacement constitute a leak?

texts:
The burner rusted out in my gas grill so I purchased a replacement - a universal burner that was approximately the same size.  It was easy to assemble and install.  However, the ends of the gas tubes that connect to the gas line ends by the control knob have a wire-mesh webbed opening.  When I attach these, the ends coming from the control knobs do not go beyond the webbed opening.  The old line had a similar mesh opening that was even longer.

How is this not a gas leak in the line?


texts: Bathroom remodel & Calif Title 24 requirements

texts:
I'm told that any permit work in my bathroom will trigger Title 24 requirements for humidity sensing exhaust fan and motion sensing lighting. I've found basic info but am confused about a couple of things.

Is a wall switch required/allowed/prohibited to control the humidity-sensing exhaust fan?

The existing overhead light/heater and vanity light are separately controlled from one three-gang switch box near the door. If I replace both fixtures with LED lights, then I still need to provide motion detecting switches, right? Seems weird to have two of these right next to each other, but haven't found a motion detector that switches two circuits. Is there any option here other than two of something like this?

In the switch box, two switches control the combined ceiling light/heater, and one controls the vanity light. I envision replacing the ceiling light/heater with light/fan, using the same two switching circuits.


texts: What risks may arise from putting a capacitor on the supply line to the door-bell?

texts:
The door-bell at the residence is (nominally, was) a simple buzzer between live/neutral that sounded Bzzzzzzzz using a simple electromagnetic hammer powered by the 250VAC. The problem is - some creature went and kept the button pressed too long burning out the buzzer (and some wiring too).

Things to do now -

Gut the destroyed wiring til lthe nearest junction (I can do this)
Replace buzzer (No problem)
Try to put some kind of a delay so the buzzer does not keep receiving supply.

For the last my plan is (admittedly simplistic - feel free to shoot me down) to put an AC capacitor from the ceiling fan (1.5MFD or thereabouts) in series between the line to the buzzer. I'm hoping the buzzer will receive supply until the capacitor is charged up after which it won't until the capacitor discharges on it's own (which may be a while).

What, if any, are the risks inherent in this scheme? Should I put the capacitor in parallel to the buzzer?


texts: What is this hole in my basement floor and how do I repair it?

texts:
The house was built in 1935 and is located in Pittsburgh, PA USA. The basement floor is concrete. There's no sump pump or any other kind of hole or hookup in the basement.

The hole is along the middle of the back wall, far from any of the other floor drains or the drain stack.

The rectangular looking channel in the middle of the hole appears (and feels) like it goes left and right some way under the floor. Is this some kind of interior drain?

If so, how do I properly repair the hole without interfering with drainage


texts: How do I build an ice rink in my backyard?

texts:
I'm considering building a small temporary ice skating rink in my backyard. I'm hoping to do this without buying many or any materials, and without causing any devastating damage to my lawn when spring rolls around.

Does anyone have any suggestions/experience/techniques for building a good quality skating rink at home?

Some things that might be relevant:

The ground is thick grass and fairly lumpy.
Temperature is conducive to making ice, we get some days around 0°C (32°F), but most are under -10°C (14°F).
Ground is mostly even, although slightly sloped on one side of the yard.
Lot next door is lower than mine and vacant, providing a convenient spot to drain to in the spring.

Here is a photo of my yard and the approximate dimensions I'm going for (built with tentative snow walls). I'm going for a skating oval, with a larger piece in front and the fire pit and bench in the middle.


texts: What can be done about water running under my house?

texts:
When the builder excavated for my home, the hole filled in with a half foot of water.  (They said I have a "perched water table".)

To "Fix" this the builder put rocks under my house and put in piping for a pump at the lower side of the house.

For the first few years my pump would turn on during the spring.  Then, 3 years ago, it started running in the summer and fall.

For the last two years it has been running off and on in about 5 minute spurts.  (It is on for about 5 mins then off for about 4.)  It is pumping out a two inch pipe.  Though I have not measured it, it is a lot of water!

I have tried moving up the bubble switch that controls the pump, but it seemed to have little effect.

If my pump is off for 30 minutes, then my basement starts to get wet!

Is there anything that can be done for this?  A kind of company to call, or ... anything?

I don't even know where to start.

NOTE: If this does not count as "Home Improvement" I apologize.  Let me know and I will delete my post.


texts: Should I use 12/2 or 12/3 to wire a 220V electric baseboard heater and thermostat?

texts: When I bought my baseboard heaters, thermostats and 220V breakers I was advised to get 12/3 wire. When I attempted to install the heaters I found that the thermostats, heaters, and even breakers have connections for only 2 wires. I have since read that 12/3 is only necessary for wiring something like a dryer that uses both 220V and 110V over the same wire. My question now is, should I get 12/2 instead of 12/3 to wire these heaters?


texts:
I have approx 500 sq. ft. of crawl space (under addition to original home).
15 x 35 ft. with 2 x 10 joist & concrete flooring ( no dirt ). Ventilated to outside is provided by 3 windows. The height is approx 2-3 ft of this crawl space. The foundation wall is of cinder blocks.

How do I keep the home above this crawl space warm in winter?

Do I insulate joist or walls or both?
Which insulation do I use, and how to secure it?
Should the ventilation be closed in winter?


texts: Why does my toilet fill and slowly drain after showers?

texts: After a shower the toilet floods and slowly drains during this process the tub gurgles. Could this be the Tom's waxed doughnut or the vent up through the attic/roof? Thank you for your time and expertise!


texts: Do electrical circuit systems break down without use?

texts:
I have no knowledge whatsoever about electrical issues so please bear with me! I am holding my wedding at a very old family estate that has not been used in a  few years. My planner questioned whether the electric system could “wear down” because no one has used the outlets in so long. We will be having 30 people stay in the house as well as hair and makeup (so hair dryers and lighting etc) the morning of.
Is that a thing / should I be concerned about the electrical system or are we completely off base here? Thanks for your help!


texts:
This is about a cement pavers patio.
On the figure below the yellow arrows show how the lot is graded

For grading the patio I seem to have two options:
-along the blue lines
-along the red line

Which gading direction is recommended?
Bigger picture here: http://i.imgur.com/osVM8Ti.png


texts: Wire a 3 way switch with lights at both ends

texts:
I moved a three way switch and (stupidly) did not take a picture of the original installation.  I'm trying to put it back together and having difficulty.  This was originally wired in 1980 and worked.  I didn't remove or add any cables.

I have power, one light, 4 conductor cable, and 3-way switch in Box A.

I have two lights, 4 conductor cable, and 3-way switch in Box B.

I moved Box B but I've since taken apart Box A trying to figure this out so I'm re-wiring everything.

How should this go back together?  I've wired a 3-way switch before and I can wire it OK if I omit the lights in Box B.  I think the neutral in Box B needs to be connected to the grounding cable but I'm not sure.

Hot (black)
Neutral (dashed)
Red (traveler)
Green (bare ground)


texts: How to decide if an old wood door is worth painting?

texts:
I'd like to freshen up an old barn door, to make my lockdown productive.

It looks really bad, hasn't been taken care of in a long while, and I wonder if there is anything useful I can do, or if it is just too late.

What should I be looking at to determine this?

Follow-up answers:

Does the door still operate or is it merely decorative?

It still operates. As a matter of fact, the main reason I want to work on this door is to keep it operating for as long as possible.

There is some rot at the bottom, particularly on the right. Is that sturdy enough or does it need to be repaired to keep it from falling apart in use?

The door is actually two 1" (2.5cm) board, screwed together. Even at the worst point (bottom right in the first picture) there is plenty left, and it feels very sturdy.

Altough there is some wood of similar dimension (width and thickness, but shorter) laying around, I don't remotely have the skills to replace the boards myself, and rust melted the screws and bolts.

Do you want to paint it and hide all the patina or do you want to put a preservative/sealer on it just to keep it from falling apart more?

I think it looks kind of nice. It's been out there for 80 something years, my goal is to keep it going a bit more :)

Do you want to spiff up all the hardware or leave it rusty?

I would try to make it all better.


texts: How can I secure NM cable in a tight spot?

texts: I need to secure NM cable in an area where there isn't enough room to swing a hammer. This makes the usual staples impossible to use. How can I secure the cable in this tight space?


texts: Will a fully collapsed extension ladder safely support twice its duty rating?

texts: My grandfather has a Werner 24' aluminum 200-lb type III extension ladder. I want to know if, in its fully collapsed state, it will safely support ~300 lbs. By my reasoning, if it will safely support 200 lbs fully extended, there is no reason it shouldn't support ~400 lbs while fully collapsed, provided, of course, that the weight is evenly distributed across both rungs.


texts: Does snaking a shower drain resolve a leak?

texts:
We recently moved to a fairly new condo (less than 10 years old).  The condo was empty for a few months before we moved in (the inspection went fine).  However, the first night we moved in, the master bathroom shower clogged when my husband used it.  He waited until it was a maybe 1-2 inch high before stopping the water and waiting for the water to go down (maybe 5 minutes).  He then turned it back on to finish showering and it clogged again (and took about another few minutes for the water to go down).

The neighbors downstairs experience a lot of water coming out of his light fixture (imagine pouring rain).  The plumber came and snaked our shower drain.  However, would the snaking be sufficient?  Is it actually possible that a clog would cause so much water to pour downstairs (and therefore unclogging will resolve all issues)?

Thanks in advance!


texts: How can I locate a short in a 24V central A/C circuit?

texts:
My A/C is not working. I checked the panel and the LED light code told me that there was a fuse blown or a short in the circuit. I checked and confirmed that the fuse had blown. If the fuse blows again, how do I check for a short or broken wire in the circuit between the panel and the thermostat?

Here is the layout:

Control Panel:
   White   Red/Blue   White   Yellow   Orange   Green   (Wires)
     0       0         0        0        0        0
    Hum      Com       W        Y        R        G     (Terminals)
Thermostat:
   Green     Blue     Red     Yellow   White            (Wires)
     0         0       0        0        0
     G        Rc       Rh       Y        W


texts: Installing anchors into a hollow metal panel

texts:
I'm installing a curtain rod in our studio. The windows we have are installed and framed by metal including a metal panel box atop them. It's hollow and the metal panel appears to be less than 2mm thick.

I see holes already from a prior tenant and I'm trying to utilize those.

Using the anchors supplied by the curtain rod manufacturer does not work. Tapping the anchor into the metal, it starts to impact on the surface and does not sit flush with the wall. There's no width specified by instructions but comparing with other anchors it looks to fit in 1/4" holes.

I bought "Triple Grip" anchors as they appeared to work for thinner surfaces. I installed one successfully but attempts to get into other holes are failing. The anchor starts spinning as I drill into it (usually about halfway in) and typically rips into 2 pieces.

I also have toggle bolts that I can use, but I am wary of this because the 1/2" hole I would need to drill. We're renting and would not be here long.

Am I not installing the triple grip anchors correctly? Is there a better solution?

It occurred to me that a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the panel would provide a very secure anchor but this would be a custom fabrication and probably outside the scope of this project :-)


texts: Why Kenmore front loader washer will not lock and start consistently?

texts: My Kenmore front loading washer did not lock and start. I replaced the door lock mechanism with a new one. Plugged the washer in and the washer started right up. Problem solved!? No! The next time starting it up the door locked but made a loud buzzing noise until it turned itself off. After going through this several times I unplugged the washer then plugged it back up. the washer then started up as if nothing was wrong. I can't figure out the problem. So after every wash I have to unplug the washer so that I can wash again. Why is this?


texts:
I am planning to build a new Computer table and a book shelf by myself.
I will require a drill machine that can drill a hole into wood and that can also drive a screw into this hole (using the drill, not manually). Would I require an Impact drill / Hammer drill / any other type of drill machine?

I would also occasionally use it for drilling into brick (not concrete).
I have created a filter based on budget and Brand in the shop where I would be buying. A suggestion of the product here would be even more helpful: Click Here


texts:
I unplugged our wine cooler while cleaning. When I plugged it back in, I instantly heard a "pop" sound and noticed a burning smell. I immediately unplugged it, then opened up the back. Upon inspection, I found an obvious blown fuse (burnt glass fuse) attached to the circuit board. The electrical and mechanical sections were heavily covered in dust.

I can solder on a new one, but I am having a hard time finding a replacement fuse. Here are the specs:

Make: Frigidaire
Model: FWC084HM
Serial #: YR44800497
Rated Current: 0.8A
Rated Voltage: AC 110v
Rated Frequency: 60Hz
Power Input: 50W
Volume: 23L
Circuit Board: PCB121110K1
Fuse: 2.5A / 250v

Questions:
1. Where do I find a replacement fuse for this? I have searched numerous sites and called Frigidaire. No luck.
2. How can I tell if this is a fast-acting or time-delay? The only engravings on the fuse are "5G 2.5A 250v"


texts: If DC adapters are so prevalent, why is AC used in construction by default?

texts:
I'm not sure if there's a better place to ask this or not.

Why, at least here in America, is the standard electrical system set up for alternating current (AC) rather than direct current (DC)? I'm just completing a long-distance move and realizing how many DC adapters I have and how many of my devices require DC power:

All of my guitar pedals.
My alarm clock.
My external hard disks.
My USB car HDD dock.

... and the list goes on. If we're almost constantly having to use DC adapters to convert AC into DC, why isn't the standard DC, other than because people resist change?


texts: Exterior to Interior Wiring and Code Deficiencies?

texts:
I recently installed a 100a exterior subpanel adjacent to my main panel to allow for the installation of 240V and 120V service to a shed on the opposite side of my house, along with a 240V dryer of which the panel spots were used for wiring the subpanel.  My plan is to run conduit from the panel to the attic then bury the wire via conduit on the opposite side to enter the shed.

Not realizing how unruly 8/3 UF-B wire is to work with I purchased a long enough section for the entire run knowing this wire meets code for the use in exterior conduit.  I quickly realized it is all but impossible to pull this through 1 1/4" Sch 40 conduit.

In this process, I have also noted what I believe are exisiting code deficiencies I am afraid they will be caught when my new electrical install is inspected.

Any input in regards to the following questions would be greatly appreciated!

1) My main service panel has several 14/2 romex wires exiting the panel into exterior conduit into the attic. This was done before I purchased the house, as I understand this is not up to code as romex is not rated for any type of outdoor use.  Should I expect my electrical inspector to also check my main panel in order to certify my subpanel, and will I be required to mediate these deficiencies?

2a) Would best practice be to use the UF-B to cross the attic and use junction boxes on either end to transition to THWN prior to entering the conduit?
2b) Could I make multiple connections (8/3, 12/3, 10/2 to corresponding THWN) within a single junction box, what is the best way to calculate the necessary volume? Would this be an appropriate option Link

2c) Can I use a single common ground through the conduit to the subpanel

3) In the attic, which is not considered to be a liveable space can I run the wire over the insulation or does it need to be affixed to the rafters?

EDIT:  I have now adjusted my plan to only use the UF-B cable to traverse the attic.  Attached wiring diagram for transitions from UF/NM to THWN wire within conduit.


texts: What's my health situation like living in an exposed fiberglass insulation for 2 weeks

texts:
My attic floor is covered with fiberglass insulation. I go to the attic very often. Sorting out winter/summer clothes. Or I go up to search for stuff as my attic is a short term storage.

2 weeks ago, we had water damage up in the attic which softened the floor and the ceiling of my son's room. A quarter of the ceiling collapsed and exposed some of fiberglass insulation. To dry up the wetness, windows were opened all the time. I am worried that particles of the fiberglass are all spread out throughout the house, through the ventilation, and my family may have been inhaling it for too long (2 weeks).

My hubby had a severe nose bleed the other day which required him to seek urgent help. At the hospital, they found out his big vein had burst. The bleeding only stopped after his nose was cultured . Now I wonder if we have all accumulated a handful of fiberglass in our lungs.  In particular I'm worried about my son's health in particular as he's only 14 years old. I have been having some pinching-like discomfort in my chest down to my abdomen and funny feeling in my mouth; a burning sensation.

I do not know if we should be at home while the ceiling will be ripped off... is it risky?

Insurance is carrying out the repairs.  Anything else I have to be aware off?


texts: Replacing a fan with two switches but only two wires

texts: I live in an older house and am replacing an old ceiling fan. Previously, the fan was on two switches- one for the light and one for the fan. To my suprizs, when I pulled the fan down there are only two wires. My fan has three wires one blue, one black and one white. I can't figure out how to wire this back up. I pulled the switch off and attached is a picture. Help is much appreciated!


texts: Is wiring supplying an integrated HVAC breaker a branch circuit or feeder?

texts:
Since this air handler / furnace has overcurrent protective devices in it, would my wiring from the panel then be a feeder or branch circuit?

I kind of think it would be a feeder circuit. And that would mean I have to obey feeder rules. But since this is part of the unit, I'm not sure.


texts: Electrical main panel flush mounted in concrete wall

texts:
It is possible to install an electrical load center flush mounted (recessed) into a concrete wall? I've seen plenty of junction boxes (outlets) embedded into concrete or masonry but can't find any examples of load centers installed this way, only flush mount installations being between studs. I couldn't find anything regarding concrete or masonry installation in installation instructions or specs. Considering its larger volume I can see how it might cave in or deform in while concrete is poured.

I'd like to do this in a garage where the walls will be concrete but can't think of a reasonable way to connect conduit if the load center is surface mounted.

Edit: Located in WA state so currently NEC 2017 is in force, later this year going to be NEC 2020.


texts: How to refinish indoor window molding wood?

texts:
The window molding in my house feels very "rough," for lack of a better word. The house is 25 years old.

I assume this is from the sun beating down on the finish and wearing it down over the years, since the trim that is not in direct sunlight (like the top of the window molding) has held up much better.

The damage ranges, depending on which room you're in. Some moldings appear as if the stain has evaporated away.  Some moldings have black discoloration in the corners (What is this?). Only one molding is in good shape.

The unfinished wood attracts a lot of dust. The moldings all have a perpetual layer of dust. When you dust it, more dust comes out and I can never really seem to get all of it out. As someone with allergies, this is terrible, and this is actually the main reason I am trying to repair it.

Here are photos (it's kind of hard to see what I'm talking about just by looking, which is why I took a bunch of photos):

(Notice how the vertical wood (on the right hand side) is much smoother and shinier than the horizontal wood in the following photo):

Kitchen window (it has a lighter stain, like butterscotch):

Here's the black stuff I mentioned earlier:

Here is the only window molding in the house that feels totally smooth and looks great. I don't know why this one hasn't deteriorated like the others just a few feet away from it. Maybe it's the figurines...

My first question: Can a newbie handle this project?

If it is easy enough for a beginner, how should I go about doing this? Please be as specific as possible...for example, instead of saying "sandpaper" please tell me what grit sandpaper to use. Assume I know nothing. Thanks in advance.


texts: Dishwasher is making screeching and whirring noises. What's wrong with it?

texts:
I have a Frigidaire FDBB2040FQ3 dishwasher.  Someone started it when I was out (and accidentally put in in high-temp wash mode), and when I came home it had just started making some horrible noises:
https://youtu.be/cJH3a9MKS24
https://youtu.be/iluUZl-shsk
When I try to start it in normal mode, it fills with water, but it appears that the spray arms are not moving and are not spraying water around:
https://youtu.be/lMRYOhsk02w (this is during the initial rinse phase)
It can also drain when I cancel the cycle.
What is wrong with my dishwasher, and what would I need to do to fix it?


texts: The best way to secure utility sink legs to concrete floor

texts: I have a utility sink with metal legs which was never anchored when installed and would like to anchor it to the cement floor. Don't want to go to the expense of using Tapcon screws. Thanks for your help.


texts: What size fuse wire do I need for a 4 kW single phase 220V geyser?

texts: What is the type and gauge of wire that I should use for fuse wire which is feeding a 4 kW single-phase geyser?


texts: Bottom shelf of cabinet, support weight of itself?

texts:
I have another question posted about making my kitchen island movable.

To do this, I have to put it on casters.  The most aesthetically pleasing method is to have the casters inside that 4" void below the cabinet's bottom "shelf".  We all know cabinets rest on the edges of the piece that comes down where the toekick is.... however, to make this babe roll I will plan on installing 3/4" ply, the side of the underside of that base, with 4 casters.  Then the cabinet will sit down "on" the plywood platform.  However, this means those 4 side pieces that normally hold the base won't make contact with the floor at all since it's going to be mobile.  My question is, can that typically hold all the base cabinet? or is it not designed for that upward force from the weight on the plywood platform?


texts: I purchased new washer and dryer and the breakers for them are tripping after using dryer

texts: The dryer is causing the breakers to trip after 5 minutes of use.  Specially if I put too much clothes.  Can I replace them with 30 amp breakers to avoid this?


texts: Is it OK to make a forced air register out of wood?

texts: I live in a rather old house, and in the bathroom the heating register is oddly busted up. I'm wondering if it would be a safety violation to fabricate the outer frame of the register out of wood, that would match the vanity furniture in the room. I would retrofit it to the metal grate which holds the blocking mechanism.


texts: Reducing threaded rod to mount fixture cross bar

texts:
I have a very antique light on a very antique ceiling that I do not want, by any means, to compromise (meaning have to open). A few weeks ago, the ceiling light that was installed started losing its grip on the flange. The primary structural support on which the light was mounted is a threaded rod that I measured (with a caliper) to be roughly 13/16" in diameter. It can be seen in this picture as the central protruding piece in the middle of the hole, just to the right of the white electrical tape.

That 13/16 is my measurement, which may be off so my first question is what standard size (by which to look for in a store or online) that resolves to as I obviously cannot take the piece with me.

Then I need to adapt this crossbar on it. The smaller size of the hole on the crossbar is why I need to reduce the threaded rod from whatever standard size it is (part of my question) to this:

In order to mount this flange on which the light goes

QUESTION 1: What standard threaded size is something that roughly measures 0.82-0.84" (roughly 13/16").

QUSTION 2: Is adapting this rod down to a modern stock size my best approach to secure this flange to the rod?

NOTE: This surrounding context of this terminal is what I have to deal with as invariable. Suggesting to change the installation because it is out of date (so that I can install a proper, modern box to which adaptation is easy) would be kind of superfluous as I am not touching the ceiling. This is a retrofitting job.


texts: Tracking Potential Bathtub Leak Without Removing It

texts:
I've noticed that the corner of my bathtub gets wet. When a paper towel is placed there, it gets soaked in a short while.  There is no large amount of water leaking out though. That spot just gets moist especially after the bathtub is used.

Is there a way to trace the leak without pulling out the bathtub?

(Note there's a wet spot on the baseboard molding and I don't know how water got there either.)


texts: How to calculate FPM as related to Residential HVAC air handler

texts:
I'm working with the formula that CFM = FPM X Cross sectional Area and I'm trying to calculate an accurate FPM through my air filter in my air handler.

Originally, I was simply using the cross sectional area of the filter opening, 20x20 (19.5 x 19.5 actual) which is about 2.6 sq ft. My air handler is pushing 1098 CMF, and so I have:

1098 CFM / 2.6 sq ft =  422 FPM

Which I believe is accurate, if the opening were just a gaping hole instead of an actual filter. The trouble comes when I referenced this number 422 FPM and someone said I should actually be using the total square footage of the pleated media in the filter, through which the air is passing. In my 1" filter thats 5.55 sq ft, and in my 2" filter thats 12 sq ft. That would yield the following calculations:

1098 CFM / 5.55 sq ft =  197 FPM
1098 CFM / 12 sq ft =  91 FPM

What I'm ultimately trying to do is determine an accurate FPM calculation, so that I can compare that value to data sheets on various filters. The data sheets I have, have tables and graphs where the X axis is FPM and the Y axis is Pressure Drop. Thus, if I can get an accurate FPM calculation, I can see the estimated pressure drop at various sizes of filter, and at various CFM settings on my air handler.

Should I therefore be using total filter media as the sq ft variable, or just the cross sectional area of the opening, or something entirely different?


texts: Something is beeping in my house intermittently. It is not the smoke or carbon monoxide detectors!

texts: We are having a very infrequent beep occur in the house.  It lasts about one second and then stops for a long time, about once an hour or so.  I can't tell what direction it is coming from but we have checked all the smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.  We can hear it pretty clearly from the living room and dining room.


texts: How do I add more circuit breakers once the breaker box is full?

texts:
My house was completely rewired by the previous owner.  They tore out all the old knob-and-tube and replaced it with modern wiring.  I definitely appreciate this, but unfortunately they left absolutely no extra space on the new breaker box.  Every single slot is filled with a circuit breaker.

It's not that the circuits are doled out too liberally either.  Its just a small breaker box.  It fits the requirements of the house exactly, but leaves no room for future expansion.

So, what are my options for adding more breakers?  Can I add a sub breaker box?  Or should I just replace the whole thing with a larger one?


texts: How do I repair a broken wooden door jamb?

texts:
Is there a cheap and simple way to repair this damaged bedroom door jamb? The result should look nice, but need not be very strong.

Click any image for full size


texts: In this plumbing code illustration, what are the meanings of "SH" "WC" "BT" "LAV", etc?

texts:
The image below, taken from this plumbing code page, has an "SH" going to the middle pipe with the trap in it. Does anyone know what the "SH" stands for, or the "BT" and "WC" ones for that matter?

The reason I ask is it seems to match the layout of some roughed in pipes coming out of my basement floor I asked about here. I thought maybe knowing this will help me confirm what I have.


texts: Why might there be concrete inside my wall?

texts:
I was attempting to run speaker wire to the opposite side of my office via the basement. I was hoping to accomplish this by feeding wires into a wall plate near the floor, down the interior of the wall, through the flooring, then across the basement and back up in reverse. I identified the edge of the floor by drilling a small hole under the moulding and poking a wire through. Found this wire in the crawlspace, proceeded about 2" over in the direction of the wall to get to the wall interior, and drilled up using a spade bit. I was surprised, after a bit of wood, to run into concrete of some kind. I didn't run into any while drilling that "pilot" hole for the wire. I stopped, not sure what to do.

Any idea why I might have concrete or cinderblock on the bottom of my wall interior? The house was built originally in 1912. The wall interior is fairly thin, around 4". I'm not sure the thickness of this concrete as I'm hesitating to drill all the way through it.

Do you think it's safe to drill up through this concrete (a hole of 1/2" diameter will suffice) and run the wires through there? Do I risk weakening the structure in any way? Should I try another spot in the floor, if you think it might not run the length of the wall?

Thanks for your input!

Update 1. Tried scraping it a bit more from underneath in the crawlspace to see if it was just caked up plaster. Gray dust comes off but it's far deeper. I'm pretty sure it's concrete.

Update 2. The concrete seems to extend up the wall interior at least 8" above the floorboards up to where I planned on affixing a wall plate. Any idea what I'm looking at? Hint: the house does have a chimney that has been walled over and used to exhaust the furnace/water heater, but this is not where that chimney is. There's nothing below this wall in the crawlspace to give me any hints.

Update 3. I think what I'm dealing with here is rock lath. The plaster appears to extend horizontally to the stud (if not an actual structural stud then some sort of vertical wood beam) and then forms a neat edge against it. I've poked around a bit more with a small inspection mirror and I believe the bead board wall is covering this wall constructed of rock lath boards coated in plaster. The bead board hovers about 1/2" in front of the plaster and indeed in front of the wood beam- in other words, it's not in direct contact.


texts: Help with Connecting a Japanese Toilet (Bidet) to US toilet and plumbing line

texts:
My first post on this board and looking for help. I've really been struggling to get this thing installed.

Forewarning: I know little to nothing about plumbing, so excuse my incorrect use of terminology and lack of knowledge.

My problem is that the t-connector to add the hose to the Japanese toilet seat is a 1/2" connector and my toilet takes a 7/8" BC to 3/8" C to the wall.

So first, I tried buying a bunch of connectors/adapters from Home depot to convert the Japanese Toto T - connector from 1/2" to 3/8" on both ends and then connect it onto the tap coming out of the wall. For some reason all the seals would just leak all over the place. No idea why this was happening.

So instead, I decided to just buy a US 1/2" Bidet T-connector. This way I can just install this in-line with the US hose (the 7/8" to 3/8" 12inch hose) and then connect the Japanese Toto T-connector to the one end of it.

However, to do this, I now need to cap off (close) the 3 end of the Japanese Toto T-connector with the other end successfully connected to the hose to the Japanese Toto hose. The reason for this is, I MUST use the Toto T-connector, because I found that the threaded end on the Toto connector is specialized to have an edge on the tip of the threaded end to create the seal with the Toto hose to the bidet. So it won't seal if connected to the 1/2" end of the US Bidet T-connector. Incredibly annoying, as I found out after connecting and thinking I was done, instead having water spray everywhere.

Okay, so hopefully you are still reading. I think I have a solution with the above, but here is my (hopefully) final question. The end cap that I bought does not seem to completely screw on. I have included pictures. Is this normal? For example, you can see the 1/2" compression connector screws on just fine and fits snug. However the End Caps won't screw completely on. Is this normal for endcaps, that's what the home depot guy said, but I have concerns.

I have two photos of two different 1/2" caps. You can see from the photos, one of them probably screws on about 2-3 threads and then gets snug. The other one barely holds onto one thread of the connector. The second one almost feels like the threads are not even the same.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!


texts: Rewiring a switch controlled receptacle to a ceiling fan

texts:
I am trying to rewire our bedroom so that a switch that currently turns on/off a receptacle will instead control a ceiling fan and leave the receptacle always hot.

Receptacle: Has 3 cables coming into the box. The outlet has a 1 hot wire and 2 neutrals attached to it. In the box there are 2 hot and 1 neutral wire nutted together.

Switch: Has a 2 conductor cable coming into the box.

I have installed the fan in the ceiling and have run a cable in the attic from the fan to the switch box.  At this point I am confused as to complete the wiring of the switch and the receptacle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


texts: Is there any danger in pulling a washing machine forward?

texts:
Our washing machine broke, specifically it stopped draining water. The water has been in there for a few days now and has started to smell. I researched this problem a bit and all possible solutions involve having access to the back of the machine.

Our machine is stuck under a counter, next to a wall on one side and a (broken) dishwasher on the other side. This means I don't know what's in the back or how the drainage looks like/works. Is there any danger in pulling the maching out of the corner, so I can have a look at it

I don't really know what washing machines look like normally, if they have any hard pipes connected in the back or whatever... I pulled it forward 5 or 6 inches but then it started struggling a little, and I really don't want to flood the kitchen...


texts: Why is my gas furnace vibrating when blowing hot air but not when blowing cold air?

texts:
I have a gas furnace. I recently replaced a bad blower motor. At that time I also cleaned out the blower housing and squirrel cage. The AC runs fine with no vibrations or any symptoms of an off balance squirrel cage.

However, when I turn on the heat, the furnace vibrates. I think it is coming from the blower, but it seems to be turning freely and again, it runs fine with the AC.

Does the blower fan spin at different speeds for hot vs cold air, and could it still be an out of balance squirrel cage? Could something else be causing the vibration? It sounds like an slightly out of balance washer on a spin cycle.


texts: How high can I pour cement against my house

texts: How high can I pour cement patio against my brick house? I want to go as high as I can without causing other problems.


texts: How do I fix a leaking connector between my garden hose and faucet?

texts:
I am trying to connect a garden hose with the faucet. After connecting and turning on the faucet, the water still squirted out. Please see the attached picture.

I am not sure whether I need a wrench to tighten it, or it is just because the faucet or hose connector are too old. Or in other words, is using a wrench to tighten a hose connector a required procedure?


texts: How to install Trex decking board as top rail?

texts:
I like to install the Trex decking boards on top railing like this

The goal is not showing screws on top. So I must screw in from the bottom through the top Universal Rail. But what is the "recommended or standard" method here? I could use any regular screw to fasten it from the bottom up. But I am wondering if there is a certain screw types (maybe provided in the box) to tighten between the top Universal Rail and the board.

I am looking for someone who has done exactly the photo.

Thanks.


texts: whirlpool front load washer won't fill with water

texts:
I have a Whirlpool front-load washer. It worked normally. Yesterday, when I try to use it after just finishing a road trip, I found it just did not fill with water. I checked the hot and cold water faucet, and also ensured the hose is not kinked.
Are there any suggestions for the possible failure cause? Thanks.


texts: Is it normal for a professional hardwood refinishing to not have removed black stains? (pet/iron oxide)

texts: I recently had the hardwoods in my new (old) house professionally refinished. Besides the decades-old finish having been worn down completely, there were also black iron oxide stains throughout. After the whole house was sanded down, wood stained, and then 3 coats of poly, there are still visible black spots left. Is that a normal side effect of 67 year old floors or did the pro do a shoddy job?


texts: Backflow Preventer / Vacuum Breaker that doesn't spray water everywhere?

texts:
I water my garden on a timer with an small irrigation system.  Last year towards the end of the season, any time the water pressure changed inside the house, everything by the spigot was soaked with water because of the drop in pressure.  It seemed to get worse as the season went on, and this year, is completely ridiculous.

Is my backflow preventer simply worn out?  Are there any devices that would allow the pressure in the line to remain intact regardless of the drop in pressure in the house?  I'd rather not spray my hardiplanks with water Every Single Time someone turns on a faucet or flushes the toilet.

What options are available to me?


texts: 4 Wires in Switch Box - Ceiling Fan/Light

texts: I wanted to add a remote transmitter to my ceiling fan and the correpsonding wall switch.   When removing the current switch (dual slider fan/light), I have five wires in the switch box. There is a blue wire that powers the light.  A orange wire that powers the fan. There are two black (cloth wires twisted together); one of these is hot and the other is not--and ground.  New switch only has two black and ground.   (Current switch was wired as follows: Black from switch to both cloth blacks.  Red from switch to blue. Yellow from switch to orange.) Confused how to wire new switch with only two blacks and ground.  Thank you!!


texts: How can I repair and waterproof a large crack in my foundation wall?

texts:
I recently just bought a house which was nice at first!  Now after 5 month, it is now spring. We had a good rainfall which flooded my basement from the floor up because of a high water table (sump pump runs quite frequently) and a Crack in a corner in the floor. When digging the next day on the exterior of the basement wall,  we found that one of the cracks in the foundation is actually worse when uncovered! This Crack is the size of the whole basement foundation (roughly 6 ft vertical) along with a decent hole.

Repair:

Is it OK to fill up the gap inside the cement block all the way up the wall with cement

Any other solutions you guys can provide


texts: Is there a Plastic Barb to PVC Pipe pipe fitting?

texts:
I'm using this Diaphragm Pump that I bought online for a certain project, and I want to attach the inlet and outlets of this diaphragm pump to a PVC pipe.

I think that Barb Outlets are supposed to be used with quick connectors to hoses, but I really need this pump to be used and connected with a PVC pipe.
I searched online and I can't find a quick connect pvc coupling pipe fitting.
Is there such thing as a quick connect pvc coupling pipe fitting?
and if there is, is there a correct way to call it?
If there is no such thing as a quick connect pvc coupling pipe fitting, what is the best way I can do to attach the inlet and outlet to a 1/2 inch PVC pipe and not have leaks?
All suggestions and corrections are highly appreciated.


texts: Ventilation: positive pressure, air from outside

texts:
I've just moved into a peak roof second floor (top floor) unit, with aluminium windows, standard rangehood and bathroom extractor fan.

I want a solution that will reduce indoor moisture and provide fresh outside air.

I've had a quote for a balanced pressure heat exchange system, about 6k NZD. As we're not planning on being in this house for more than 2-4 years, this is too much.

Instead I'm looking at a positive pressure system without heat exchange that draws air from outside, with a manual fan control.  Such a system will be about 2,700 NZD, which is within my budget.

Will this setup provide adequate air flow?

Will it eradicate condensation issues?

How difficult would the house be to heat in winter? (Auckland gets down to about 10-15C)


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