texts:
I have single phase power in my area

I have two ac power meters connections at my home. Last night there was a windstorm and neutral cable of once AC meter got broken.

I had black out in half portion of my home that was connected to that meter whose wire was broken

Then I called to electricity office but long time passed but they didn't arrive.

Then I joined neutral wire to neutral wire of other AC power meter.

My question is that neutral wire shared/common in this way between two meters having separate phase wires

Is it safe?


texts: Move neutrals to subpanel or leave them on main?

texts: I have a 150A Square D QO panel that is full and won't allow for tandem circuits.  I'm going to take out the bottom 2 breakers and replace them with a 100a breaker to feed a subpanel via 4AWG copper wire.  When I move the 20 amp circuits from the main to the subpanel, do I need to move the neutral wires as well, or can I leave them on the neutral bus in the main panel?  Seems like its all the same if I left them alone, but not sure if there is a reason to move them too.


texts: Where can I get a new key for an old lock?

texts:
There are two locks on my apartment door.  The key to the bottom lock was lost long ago - before I moved in - and we now just use the top lock.

The bottom lock is probably 50-60 years old and doesn't have any identifying information on its exterior.  It works fine.  We just don't use it because we don't have a key.

Once, when a locksmith was here working on the other lock, I asked him about it, but he just tried to sell me a replacement, which was going to be very expensive.

Is it possible to have a new key made for an old lock?  What would be the challenge in a case like this - is there any reason it would be easier to just replace the whole thing?


texts: Should you turn off and drain gas water heater if you leave for 6 months?

texts: Water heater when you areA snowbird for six months


texts: Why won't the bulbs light up brightly in my European chandelier?

texts:
I bought a European chandelier not knowing there were light bulb size differences. I ordered 12 European to Candelabra Reducers (E14 to E12). I was so happy when I received them, and couldn't wait to install them on my new candelabra. I installed all 12 bulbs and reducers, but to my surprise only 2 really light up and the other 10 only glow.

Can you help me and tell me what's wrong and what I need to do?


texts: Maneuverable Toilet spray pipes like kink free collapsing Garden hoses?

texts:
After my travels and stays across the Globe I have realized that a Toilet Spray followed by Toilet paper is more hygenic than only one of them.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bidet_shower

Are there any toilet sprays or pipes that are flexible and maneuverable like those kink free collapsing Garden hoses?

http://gardeningproductsreview.com/best-garden-hose/
http://clearflowwaterhose.com/garden-hose/

If not, how could one find such pipe/ hose and then DIY them to attach them in a bathroom?

Especially, if the place is rented - what would be easy ways to do this?


texts:
I'd like to setup a smoker in my backyard. Its one of the cylindrical fairly inexpensive ones. I'm hesitant to just put it on the grass because i don't want any embers to get on the grass and the yard has a slight grade to it.

I'm looking for a fairly painless solution that still will look decent. I

I've considered just picking up 4 12x12 stones and maybe some gravel to help grade under them. Would that be good enough or would it erode over time?


texts: How do I find what these breakers go to?

texts:
I recently mapped every appliance, receptacle, light fixture, switch to their respective breaker in the master 200A electrical panel.  When I was finished I ended up with 2 20A breakers that did not go to anything I could find.  The breakers were on when we bought the house.  I have since shut them off not knowing what they go to.

Is there any other way to trace them or should I just not worry about them and leave them shut off?


texts: How should I build a garden fence on the edge of a swamp?

texts: I'm currently building approximately a 60' X 100' garden on the edge of a swamp (1-2 feet above the water table), and am wondering what to build the fence out of, and how to build it as this is also my wild mushroom garden, and the mushrooms will attack the poles.


texts:
I have an older Whirlpool front-load washer that's stinky. I periodically clean it inside and out (including the folds in the seal) but the smell keeps coming back. Last time this happened, I took the machine apart and found mold in the drain hose; replacing it fixed the problem. But now two months later, it's back again.

Is there any way to fix this problem permanently, or should I break down and replace it? If so, is there anything I can replace it with that won't simply exhibit this problem again?


texts: Maximum weight window air condition without supports?

texts: For the average old window what is the maximum weight air condition you should have installed without any support brackets beside screwing in the window frame from the inside?  For example up to 50 pounds ok? 100 pounds risking it?


texts: Should I grout the walls or floor first?

texts: I have finished tiling my shower and am ready to grout. The walls are LFT 6x24 tiles and the floor is natural stone pebbles. The grout color for the wall tiles is slightly darker than the grout color for the floor. Do I grout the walls or the floor first?


texts: Can I attach a metal box for a vanity light to a wood cross?

texts: I am redoing a new bathroom.  I have a metal electrical box that I want to replace (because it is an odd size from the 50s).  The current one is simply screwed to a wood cross (2x4) running horizontally.  Can I screw the new one into wood?  I know I can but is it code compliant?


texts: Do I have to remove asbestos tiles in my house before applying epoxy floor coating?

texts: I have the old style VCT asbestos tiles in my den and want to install an epoxy coating. Do I have to pay someone to remove the tiles first? Is there an alternative?


texts: Why does this receptacle have the ground tied to the neutral?

texts:
I was replacing some outlets in my house with tamper-resistant ones, and came across one where the white and ground were wired together, as seen in this picture.  Why?  Is that okay or appropriate ever?  It was clearly done on purpose.

When the house was inspected, the inspector detected significant current on the ground.  Is it possible that this wiring is the reason?


texts: What is the appropriate type of caulking around a kitchen sink?

texts:
The caulking around my sink has worn/rotted away and I've removed it properly, but I've been looking into what I kind of caulking to use, and there seem to be many different types, so I'm a bit unsure of what to do.

Which type of caulking is used for a kitchen sink (the gap between the kitchen sink and the counter-top? Does anything else need to be applied in addition to the caulking?


texts:
What are the sheets typically found in the back of cheap MDF cabinets made of?
They're usually 1/8" or smaller.
I broke one and want to replace it, but not sure where to go or what to ask for.


texts: mantel mount with only 2 studs available

texts:
I bought a new home where the TV was mounted directly above the fireplace.  The gap between the TV and fireplace was a scant 3 inches.  I've since raised the TV to the specs provided by the fireplace manufacturer.
I'm mounting a non-combustible mantel above the fireplace to shield the TV even more.
It's 6" high, will protrude 9" from the wall, and is 72" long.  It weighs 43 pounds.
The kicker is there aren't any studs above the fireplace where the mantel needs to go.  The only two studs available are 68" apart, 6" from each side of the fireplace.  The mantel came with three tiny lag screws.  They're only 1/8" diameter.
Since I can only use two bolts, I was thinking 1/4" or even 5/16" diameter lag bolts, screwed in 2.5" into each stud?
Will this work?


texts: Closing gap around floor transition strip and door trim

texts:
Having finished major renovations, I'm focusing now on the fit and finish work in a 1964 U.S.A. ranch-style home. As you can see in these pictures, the slap-dash flooring transition is shoddily done around the trim, between a bedroom and its en suite.

Besides the appalling look, this join is a known bug and outside air ingress point. So my current remediation plan is to:

Remove the current transition
Caulk underneath the trim at the join to better close the envelope
Install a new vinyl reducer transition that's cut to fit snug against the door liner
Remove the existing quarter round
Cut 1/2" from the bottom of the door trim molding
Install new quarter round from the transition

The end result would be a proper transition snug against the door liner and quarter round that goes all the way to the transition. This isn't ideal, as I'd prefer the trim come all the way down and the quarter round abut against that, but it's cheaper to replace a foot of quarter round than an equivalent length of trim.

Is there a better way to remediate this join?


texts: New sliding door with stucco behind vinyl siding

texts: Has anyone had experience treating old (1948) stucco (3/4” stucco, metal lath, tar paper, ship lap) as wall board when installing new sliding doors or windows? I have vinyl siding that is on furring strips that are ramshot and glued onto the stucco. There is no continuous housewrap to speak of between the vinyl and stucco, just some foam insulation between furring. Considering adhering a new door straight to the stucco, flashing tape, sealant, etc. Any real world experience guys have had? Am I crazy and should just breakout the stucco and patch?


texts: Possible to make suction cups work again after being unused for a few years?

texts:
In the shower of my old apartment, I had a shower caddy with suction cups mounted in my shower. I then moved to a new place, and the shower caddy was never remounted in the new shower.

After being laid to rest in a box for almost two years, is there a way to get the suction cups to work again? Is there a coating of dust and fats that are preventing the cups from mounting on the wall, or have the suction function depreciated by some other means?


texts: What options exist when utility wire is too short to reach the meter?

texts:
Doing a meter box upgrade, underground service in 2" EMT entering bottom of box. My new meter box has about 12" distance from bottom case to lugs, which is about 3" longer than the old.  Ack!
Surely this happens to others. What are the options here?

Request a new conductor wire be installed by the utility company?

Lower the box down on the conduit? But this raises 2 more questions:
how can you cut and thread the conduit with wires still inside (not
likely possible), or how can you secure the conductor without
threaded end if the threads are raised 3" above inside the bottom of
the box)

Have the utility company pull the wires back a couple feet so I can
make cut and thread the conduit?

Splice the main line?  (I'm guessing no, but if yes, the power
company would be very specific on their requirements)

Other options I am missing, besides finding a new box?  (no time for that, plus I've spent days searching to settle on what I've got).


texts: How can I add insulation above my finished ceiling?

texts: What is the cheapest option for adding insulation above a finished ceiling? There has never been any in the spot that I need it. Should I take the roof off or have it sprayed in? The space is 20 feet long and 9 feet 9 inches wide.


texts: Drilled into white/cream colored plastic behind drywall, what is it?

texts:
I'm installing a closetmaid shelf in my closet in a 2nd floor bedroom. I was drilling behind drywall and on one of the holes I marked I hit some kind of plastic. I'm not sure if its a wall or pipe, but it is white in color (I've already shaved off pieces of it with the drill). I'm confused because I used a high quality stud finder and it shows nothing there. Well, the plastic is technically 1/2 inch behind the drywall so the stud finder possibly missed it (maybe).

This hole I drilled into is close to the edge of another wall (a wall of one side of the house). The plastic is adjacent to another stud, though. Doubtful that it might be plumbing (subjective) since the side of this wall is not shared by any walls of a bathroom. The wall is directly below an attic and the floor below are just regular living rooms.

Any idea what I drilled into? and whatever that may be, would it be safe to drill into ?


texts: Does a vaulted ceiling roof need venting?

texts: I'm buying a house in Colorado, and the house has a vaulted (cathedral) ceiling such that both the plywood sheathing and the ceiling sheetrock are attached to opposite sides of the rafters, i.e. no attic.  My inspector said it needs ventilation (ridge vent + soffit vents).  The roofer who did the job for the sellers says it does not.  Does such a roof need venting?  It's a passive solar home without a lot of cooling ability.  My concern is heat buildup during the summer and potential moisture build-up.  The roof is only 5 years old and one of the sheets of plywood has already blistered significantly.


texts: I have minor sagging of my roof plywood, 3/8" thick, placed on trusses 24" apart. Is there an amount of sag that is technically okay? I could not find anything on the APA website. I am not worried about cosmetic appearance of the sagging, but wondering what my limits are for structural integrity.


texts: Securing wiring around the electrical panel - NEC 2017 appropriate?

texts:
Trying to make sure I am up to code for securing some the AC/BX wiring coming out of my QO main svc panel (QO142M200PCAFVP).  Not a lot of room to work with, the joists run a bit over a foot above the panel.  I have secured the main feed wire (red) and the main grounding wire (green) to the joist, 4 of the AC/BX circuit wires to the panel board (purple), and the water pipe bond wire to the panel (lime green).
Question 1) Are those secured ok the way they are? I suppose I could staple the green grounding wire to the panel backboard, is it necessary because of the 12" rule?  Not sure what else can be done about the red main service feed wire - it wasn't even secured to the joist when the old box was there.
Question 2) I can’t secure the yellow circled AC/BX wire to the panel backboard without taking up one of the ¾ knockouts, all of which I will need for a bigger 6/3 wire (big black one in the background and others to be installed).  But as you can see, the yellow AC/BX is secured up at the joist.  Is that enough or do I need to figure out a way to secure it on the panel back board?  I feel like the requirement of having to staple it “within 12 in. of boxes with cable clamps” may not be followed here.


texts:
Does anyone here have experience putting mounting screws into stucco?

I want to mount a light plastic box to the exterior of my home to protect a coax junction. My house's exterior is stucco.

The box is not heavy but I want it to be secure and not come loose over time. Also, I want to minimize the damage to the stucco.

I'm thinking I should use mounting screws, pre-drill the holes using a masonry bit (i read a hammer drill is better but i don't have one and read a regular drill should work for smaller holes), and put some type of sealant into the hole.

But I'm not sure if a masonry screw or masonry anchor is best. Also, I'm drilling blind as I don't know where the studs are. Any other tips welcome.


texts:
I am trying to replace a light switch and am a little confused at the addition of what appears to be an extra wire:

Current switch wiring:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c58qw5wbno20qhr/IMG_4160.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmfouqxblht1eiz/IMG_4159.JPG?dl=0

New switch I want to replace it with:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9114mvee5v13pyb/IMG_4161.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/elsxlqvw61vhvv0/IMG_4162.JPG?dl=0

This switch does control a light that is also controlled at 2 other light switches in the house, not sure if that has anything to do with it.

The switch next to this one was previously a dimmer but I have already removed that!

How do I hook this up if I only have 2 brass screws on the new one?


texts:
I have underground three-strand #4 aluminum insulated from my service meter to my shop approx 500 ft. At the shop panel the volt meter with no load on either line across the lines 240V plus and from each live to the ground line 120V plus.  All looks good, turn lights on one of the line circuit voltage will drop 10 to 20V, the other line with no load will rise by about the same.  If I load the other line, the voltage will reverse the readings.  Have told this is because ground wire is bad.
So now I have questions:

How do I locate the break?
Why does the ground to soil rod not taking up the task?
My house is 325 ft away from the barn, my redneck engineering says to go from my shop earth ground rod to my house earth ground with bare copper. and save ripping up a paved driveway.


texts: How much stronger is a triangle-shaped vs. A-shaped truss? Max snow load comparison?

texts:
I'm on a property in which there is a garden shed and its roof collapsed yesterday because of heavier than normal snow that accumulated on it over the past few months and it looks like yesterday was simply too much for it.

The roof trusses were made in an (unusual?) A shape like this:

I'm reading online that the rafter tie should have been closing the truss triangle shape at the bottom so that the rafter tie touches both the outer walls and the rafters, like this:

The question is just how much of a difference in load weight support is there between the A-shaped (1st picture) vs. triangle-shaped trusses (2nd picture) ?

Thanks


texts: water heater draining hot water continuously from an outlet (seems tp valve outlet to me)

texts:
My gas water heater, continuously lets hot water out from the outlet (seems it is connected to tp valve, it goes through the wall to outside the home).

If I turn the water heater to low (much below the normal setting with the recommended arrow), it stops after a few minutes.

What could be the problem and I am worried if this is something dangerous, in addition to wastage of water and gas..?

Also, I noticed that my heater is making more noise than ever..It is a 3-4 years old heater..


texts:
Can I use hand drill machine, which runs manually not by electricity, to drill in plastic pipes, bottles, and cement walls?

The purpose of purchasing it is to get hands-on experience with some DIY projects. I don't want to buy expensive tools until I find myself satisfactory in such activities.


texts: Can an air conditioner rated for 50Hz be used on a grid at 60Hz?

texts: My air conditioning unit from Qatar is for 50hertz and I want to move in the Philippines. Can 60hertz power be used?


texts: Do no flange low profile shower bases present an increased chance of leaking?

texts:
I'm thinking about buying this shower base or similar. Specs here.

It has no flanges so I am wondering if adding my own flanges for tiling is a thing that I want to do. I am handy but I am afraid that if I make a mistake I might get a leak that will cost me later
How reliable is it to install your own flanges? I'm not sure if backer/sealant solutions like the one in this video would alleviate the risks.


texts: How can I fill a hole in wood so that it can be redrilled?

texts:
The original strike plate for the deadbolt is mounted with 2 screws on top and 2 screws on bottom.  I'm replacing the whole deadbolt and the new strike plate only has 1 screw on top and 1 screw on bottom.

So if I were to screw in the new strike plate down the middle of the old holes, it will probably merge together into one big horizontal gap.

I want to fill up the holes, should I use Minwax Wood Filler for this?

I also heard of a method to use a bunch of toothpicks with wood glue to fill the hole.  Which method would be stronger?


texts: Can I disable an old security system by disconnecting the transformer?

texts: I switched from my old security alarm to a diy alarm system. I want to completely shut down the old alarm system and keypad. Is I possible to remove the wires of the transformer? I don't know what to do with it. I don't to just let it dangle. I am nervous to close it inside the box because I don't want it pressing on the transformer wire. What is the safest way to store/ hide the wire connecting the transformer to the wall?


texts: How can I protect an electrical box embedded in rough masonry from weather?

texts:
Yesterday I had a fuse blow 3 times and I eventually tracked it down to an outdoor outlet that wasn't so watertight.  The outlet had an outdoor cover on it but after opening it it was obvious that moisture and debris had been getting into the box.  The outlet in the box also seems to have shorted inside and was actually rusted (may have been 40yrs old).

I bought another cover plate, but I really don't think a new cover plate with the foam insulator is sufficient.  It seems like a regular INDOOR box that's been embedded into a brick wall.  The electrical outlet is installed on the top of the box with the screws going into holes on the outside.  I'd like to know how to properly close up this box.

Here are some pictures:

The circuit is also not GFCI protected so I'll add one to an outlet inside on the same circuit.


texts: Does it make sense to build a false wall at the back of a shower bay and what do I need to concern myself with if doing this?

texts:
I tore apart my master bathroom down to the drywall/subfloor (studs in some places).  It had a 35 year old 1 piece blue fiberglass surround in it (had to cut it up into many pieces to get it out the door).

My plan was to replace it with a newer 3 or 4 piece surround.  However, I've run into a bit of a snag.

my shower bay looks like this:

As you can see, the existing shower drain is centered along the front edge of the shower.  I've come to realize that it was done this way because there is a joist running 16in from the back wall.  Everything I've found in big box (HD/Lowes/Menards) have the shower drain 17in from the back wall (48x34 showers) either directly in the middle or centered front to back along the short sides.  I could move the drain to just about anywhere EXCEPT along that line because there is a joist running right there.

Am I doomed to replace this with a custom shower pan?  What other options do I have?

-edit-  I just thought of a solution (as the title suggests) that I'd like to run past the masses here.

As you can see in the pics, I have ~5-6in at the front of the bay to work with.  The alcove is 39in deep (not counting drywall width) and it appears the standard depth for 48in width showers is only 34in deep.  If I were to frame out a false wall in the back of the shower bay that would essentially move the shower out an extra 3.5in and that should be enough to run my drain right along that joist...right?

For example:

It can't be that easy right?  What am I missing here?


texts: Lower power supplied by home network after power glitch

texts:
The other week I was at work when a massive power glitch hit the local area (lights dimming, computers shutting down etc). When I got home, just a few blocks away, something had happened to my home's electrical system; since then the halogen ceiling lights are slightly dimmer, the heater's fan spins more slowly, the toaster takes much longer to brown the same bread (and it too glows more dimly), etc.

I have a power meter provided by my energy supplier, and my 3 kW kettle that used to draw almost exactly 3 kW, now only draws 2.4 kW.

Can anyone guess what might have happened? could it be a problem with my home electrical system, or some substation, or else? It's being going on for a week now. Cheers!


texts: Help identifying type of texture on walls

texts:
Probably a dumb question, but I'm having trouble determining if these walls are orange peel or knockdown textures. The first two photos below are in the same room, but at the minimum seem like completely different consistencies for the texture. The last photo is a different room in the house.

For the second photo, it looks like orange peel to me, while the first and last I can go either way. Anyone with more experience care to educate me? Thanks!


texts: I have a light dent in my wooden door, what is the best way to fix it?

texts: I had created this small dent in my door and I am wondering how to fix it.


texts: I want to install luxury vinyl floor in my kitchen. If I don't want to move my gas stove, can I install it up to first couple of inches under front side of stove? Is that OK with a floating floor (tongue and groove)? Can it be left like this?


texts: Will using a Chimney Balloon to insulate my fireplace block the ventilation of my water heater and furnace?

texts:
My house was built in 1920 in Providence, RI.

I'm not sure of the design of the entire chimney, but the water heater and furnace vent into the chimney. I am considering using a Chimney Balloon, but it would need to go above the damper since there's not a good surface to install it below the damper. Would it be likely that I'd block the ventilation of the water heater and furnace by installing the Chimney Balloon?


texts:
New homeowner here and we would like to remove a cast iron wood stove and the brick structure with minimal damage to the hardwood floor below (see picture below). Two options:

1) Hire someone. We already contacted multiple builders but they basically don't call back or don't have time. One came by for something else but now shows no sign of being interested in the job. We don't even know whether this is a job for a builder. The guy who came by said demolition expert but isn't that overkill?

2) DIY. What are the steps? Is this doable? Does the chimney has to be sealed off?

ps: Any thoughts on whether the hardwood floor below is intact would be appreciated. Everyone says something else.


texts: Are the joist repairs in my home safe and correct?

texts: As the title says, I recently bought a home and am in the early stages of finishing the basement. However, after tearing down the old ceiling tile, I found that my floor had experienced water damage and that for some reason, the joists were cut and sistered using very short lengths (as seen in pics) My question is: how soon do I need to get this fixed and what kind of damage to my wallet can I expect?


texts:
I would like to attach an eyebolt to the ridgeline of my metal roof.   I can then attach a rope to that when I need to work on the roof.  I am a climber and have the knowledge and gear to secure myself.  The rope is mainly to allow me to get up the 10/12 central part of the roof (the ridgeline of which I'll mount the eye-bolt), and not slide off the adjacent 5/12 portions of the roof.   It will not be subject to dynamic loading (catching falls); the biggest loads it will sustain are when I haul on it to get up the 10/12 roof (it's impossible otherwise, very slippery).

Since the ridge cap is just a fairly flimsy piece of galvalume, the eyebolt must be secured without reliance on it (and RTV silicon caulked to it).   My plan is to drill a hole through the ridge cap, the eyebolt will come through that, and then be attached to the rafters with two u-bolts.  Since this is the ridge, it's where the rafters meet.  So additionally, I will reinforce the rafters with two triangular shaped steel plates (one on each side of the area where the rafters meet); these will be bolted through the rafter with 2-3 bolts, and then the u-bolts will go through them as well.

This picture shows the detail.


texts: How to flatten the sagging OSB subfloor?

texts:
I am preparing the subfloor to install engineered hardwood floor by floating installation.

However, the subfloor is too much sagging. There is a big area with about 5/32 depth.

See:

The real sagging area is even bigger than what you can see on the picture.

Could anybody give me suggestion about how to flatten this subfloor?

I was thinking to use 1/8 plywood but it seems I need too much plywood since the area is big. And it won't be smoothly flat.

Is there any kind of compound I can use to flatten it?


texts: Is there software or a web site that lets me upload a photo and visualize changes to a room?

texts: I'm thinking of changing my kitchen and bath floor, countertops and backsplash.  I don't have all day to create a 3-D model from scratch.  Can I start with a photo and visualize changes?


texts: Help identify Cartridge for my Kitchen faucet

texts:
My kitchen tap is dripping. I managed to remove the cartridge from it (pictures below), however I am not sure what kind of replacement will do.

Could someone help identify this faucet for me?

Would this be a good replacement:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Ceramic-Stem-Cartridge-for-2-Handle-Faucets-in-White-RP47422/202624488


texts: Using liquid sandpaper (deglosser) with polyurethane varnish

texts: Revarnishing kitchen cabinets, using polyurethane (oil base) over existing varnish.  Can I use liquid sandpaper to degloss the old varnish?  What about in between coats of the new?  Thanks!


texts: How to seal around an existing wood window after removing old siding

texts: We are removing old siding from a house, and replacing it with Hardie lap siding.  We are leaving the original wood-framed picture window in place.  With the siding removed there are gaps between the window jamb and the sheathing.  Should we use caulk or peel-and-stick, or both, as an extra precaution against potential water damage, before we apply the house wrap?


texts: We have a 4 ton Carrier gas pack for our 1996 sq ft house.  A 2 zone system was installed when the unit was installed in 2015.  It has 2 thermostats and automatic dampers.  We have only had great results.  We are selling the home and the buyer's home inspector felt it was not working correctly because both thermostats control the unit (duh!).  They are concerned the dampers are not working correctly.  My question is if one zone is calling air, will some air flow still come out of the vents of the zone that is not calling air?  We do not have a problem with temperature control and feel it is working well.  I know that our unit is more than is needed for our ranch style home.  I am pretty sure there is a bypass damper as well.  Thoughts?


texts:
I'm getting ready to install  the Mr Cool DIY 24K Mini Split Heat Pump in my garage.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-DIY-24-000-BTU-2-Ton-Ductless-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-and-Heat-Pump-230-Volt-60-Hz-DIY-24-HP-230A/207085061

I'm having trouble determining a few things about the circuit. The outdoor unit and indoor unit both have an electrical specification sticker. The outdoor unit indicates its MCA is 15A and its Max Fuse is 25A. The indoor unit indicates its MCA is 3A and its Max Fuse is 15A. My confusion comes from the fact that the indoor unit plugs directly into the outdoor unit and only the outdoor unit receives power from the house.

First question; Does the sticker on the outdoor unit take this into account?

Some of my reading makes me think that since the sticker explicitly says Max Fuse that I must use a fuse instead of a breaker.

Second question; Is this true?


texts: After a flush, it whines and makes high pitched noises when filling tank up. Time for new stuff?


texts: Insulating and framing a basement after drain system and plastic vapor barrier installed

texts:
We had a moisture problem in our basement located in Minnesota. Recently some foundation water came up and ruined our carpet, when we tore out the drywall there was moisture build up and some mold on the walls. The exterior wall was removed and a Waterguard drain system with sump pump installed with a plastic sheet/water vapor covering the entire wall and tucked into the drain.

My question is how do I insulate the exterior basement wall now that the plastic vapor barrier was installed with the drain system.picture of wall with new vapor barrier](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Juif2.jpg)


texts: Can a cord and plug attached to a wallbox be used as a transfer means for fixed wiring downstream of the box?

texts:
So, we have a circuit that runs from the panel to junction box A, then to junction box B, and then onwards to a load.  Can the fixed Chapter 3 wiring between junction box A and B be replaced by a flexible cord "pigtail" emanating from junction box B and plugged into a single receptacle in junction box A, to provide for the interchange of the equipment providing the power source to the circuit?  (Say, to a generator if this configuration was mounted outdoors and made of outdoor-rated parts, or to an inverter powered by some DC source, or even simply to a different circuit for some bizarro reason.)

It seems to me that while this isn't quite the situation in 400.7(A)(11) as this is field fabricated -- 400.7(A)(6) would hold, as we are connecting some load to facilitate interchange -- just not of the load, but the source powering the load.  Or does 400.7(A)(6) not apply, rendering this arrangement a 400.8 violation as it'd be substituting for permanent wiring?


texts: How to fix a small faucet leak at the base

texts:
Recently my faucet has started leaking near the base.  Just wondering if there is a way to fix it.

Here is what I know

It only leaks when the water is on
It seems to come and go
Sometimes it leaks a lot, sometimes a little
The aerator broke recently as well.  Not sure if that's related.
It's a Moen Kitchen Faucet


texts: Rectify smooth filler patches on sand and cement skimmed wall

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Someone did me a favour and sand and cemented by porch (long story). It had a few cracks afterwards and as I had lots of other things to filler I decided to filler all of the cracks "while i was at it".
Yesterday I gave the wall a mist coat and now deeply regret my filler as the smooth patches on the scratchy wall are very visible.

What do you suggest I do to get a consistent finish without too much work? (Scratchy or smooth)

Thanks


texts:
I have one 3 gang box of 44ci , and it needs to house the following wires:

Three 14/2 wire for 3 switches.
one 14/3 wire
one Feed wire
one jumper wire to feed another switch

Is this box deep enough and pass the inspection with above wires?
If not what is the alternative solution, a junction box  which will reduce jumper wire from 3 gang box?
Please advise.


texts:
I need to move my washing machine for a couple of days to a friends place due to some construction in my place.

I remember that when I first bought it the seller, when delivering it, removed a security brake, that is used to transport the machine without damaging it.

I would like to know how important it is to brake the machine for transport and how to do it.


texts: How should I flatten (not level) a concrete subfloor?

texts:
In the final stages of finishing a room in our walk-out basement.  This particular room has a long history, as it was originally a garage.  Thus, it has a slight pitch from the back of the room towards the wall that once contained the garage door (which is now a sliding glass door).

Unfortunately, there is a ridge down the center of the room where the concrete bows up about 3/8" of an inch over a 2' wide strip.  I believe that this kind of ridge will cause issues when laying the laminate flooring.

My initial thought was to use self-leveling compound.  However, being self-leveling, it will run down and pool quite thick at the front of the room, and require a significant amount to do (and might even go higher than the threshold of the sliding glass door).

I am unsure as to what type of product I could use that would be trawl on, and thick enough not to run, yet bond well with the underlying slab.  Any thoughts on the best way to flatten a concrete floor that has a pitch in one direction that must be maintained?


texts: What on earth is this small wall-mounted computer?

texts:
I live in a rented apartment, and there is this little plastic box on the wall that I had been ignoring. Here is what it looks like:

There are no markings or holes on the casing. I got curious and opened it up, and was surprised to find a small PCB inside:

Since it's about halfway up the wall, I was thinking it could be a carbon monoxide detector, but those are usually pretty identifiable or at least have some holes on the side. I was also thinking it could be a wireless doorbell, but we don't have one of those, nor do I see any evidence that there was one here previously. Any ideas?


texts: Will this router and dovetail jig combo work?

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I am looking at getting this router and this dovetail jig.

These will be compatible with each other, right?


texts:
I've found the knockouts in NM boxes hard to fully open. I've had trouble with both Carlon boxes and Madison Smart Boxes. The plastic molded to make the knockout is very resistant to actually being knocked out.

My current approach is to whack the knockout with a hammer's claw. This generally busts the knockout pieces apart, but it doesn't remove them. They often remain so tight together still that forcing the cable in is very difficult and I worry about damaging the cable sheathing. Grabbing the "arms" of the knockout with pliers and pulling and twisting generally just crushes off a little bit, rather than wrestling out the entire chunk that's in the way.

Sheathing damage was a major problem when trying to push old, brittle rag wiring through the knockout: it was stripping the brittle insulation off the wires rather than admitting them into the box. My solution there was to drill through the knockout arms to get them out of the way, but this was a major pain, and the burning plastic smell generated by the rotating drill bit was not encouraging.

What's the "right way" to fully open these molded knockouts?


texts: What causes repeat trip of thermostat in dryer?

texts: My dryer did not produce heat. After some online research, there was a solution that included pressing a small red reset button. I did this and the dryer worked for a while, but then the heat stopped. I repeated the “repair”, but the dryer stopped producing heat again after a while. What would be my next step. I’m not technical, but hoping there could be something that wont need a specialist for repair.


texts: Where should I place nails when installing crown molding?

texts: Is there any particular place on the crown molding where I should position a nail (middle, inside creases, top, bottom, multiple locations)?


texts: Would this type of backsplash tile not require grout?

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I’m looking at this particular backsplash tile which is unusual in that there’s really no gaps between pieces:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Alaska-Gray-Splitface-12-in-x-12-in-x-10mm-Marble-Mesh-Mounted-Mosaic-Tile-ALGRY-SFIL10MM/206741880

I see no way that grout could be squeezed in there. Will it simply be installed ungrouted?


texts: Seal wood floor without changing the look

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I’m looking to seal my new engineered wood floor to help protect it from spills, including cat pee. I know it won’t perfect but want to increase my chances.

I don’t want to change the colour or the shininess of the floor.

Should I be looking at oil, or matte wax or another product?

Thanks


texts: What kind of load can an aluminium split batten system support

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I am looking at ways to attach a large (2.4m) and heavy (25kg) bookshelf to a wall.
The bookshelf has two tiers. Assuming books weigh about 30kg per metre, when full this bookshelf might weigh 169kg.
Is an aluminium split batten system strong enough to maintain this kind of weight if it is screwed into a stud wall?
In the past I have had it supported from below with 4 braces that could bear 30kg each, but I like the out of sight aspect of the split batten.
For reference this is the kind of system that I am looking at, but I haven't seen any specific information about what kind of weight they can bear.
https://alltradealuminium.com.au/product/split-batten/


texts: How to fill 4" width gap between the walls and alcove bathtub door

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I'm trying to install a full width alcove bathtub sliding glass door. Problem is the width of pre-built tub doors, especially those at budget price level such as  this one, seemed to be standardized at  max 60" but the width of my bathtub and alcove is 64".

How to address the 4" shortage both cost-effectively and aesthetically? Presumably I am looking for a commodity product preferably available in local hardware stores to fill the gap. Example product link would be helpful. I have thought about using U-shaped aluminum channels but most channels are under 1" width. There are high-end or custom-built tub doors fitting 64" but they cost over $800, which is over my budget.


texts:
The wall outlets and lights in 2 of my rooms in my house are not working and all the breakers are switched on.... this happened after I kept turning my main breaker on and off to fix a light because the breakers wasn’t labeled for certain parts of the house...
How can I fix this???


texts: How to seal gaps around door to prevent mosquitoes from entering?

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I have gaps above and below the doors of my house, from which mosquitoes enter in huge numbers. I fold newspapers and fit them every day.
This takes a lot of time as I have to do it for every door.

Please give answer in consideration to the fact that I can only fix it at home itself as my city is under complete lock-down due to corona-virus

Sorry, I am not good at speaking English.

What can I do to stop them once and for all.

this is a video in which you can see the problem with one of the doors


texts: Wiring a pull switch ceiling fan (with light) to a wall switch

texts: If I am wiring an existing ceiling fan with a light that is currently controlled by a pull chain switch for light and fan speed to a wall switch, and I'd like to use 14/4 AWG (with ground) wire to do so, where can I buy such wire?  I'd like to avoid buying a roll of 250 feet of it - which is the only length I can seem to find at hardware stores and online at the moment.  I know running 14/2/2 would also work, but I can't find a means to buy that wire by the foot or in any length shorter than 250 feet either. Thanks!


texts:
What kind of gloves should I wear during electrical work?

I need to know which glove material is most suitable for this kind of work, as I wish to purchase the proper gloves.


texts: Hanging Cables Along the Corners of Walls

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My girlfriend wants to run ethernet cable along the corners of the walls of her apartment, but is rather particular in that it needs to be discreet. Cable covers are NOT an option here, as the trimmings would only run up one corner of the room, then along one corner of the ceiling until reaching a wall mounted PoE (power over ethernet) camera placed over the front door of her living room. I have suggested command strips numerous times, but she insists that these are unacceptable, as they would not allow the cable to rest flush against the corners of the wall.
I've thought about double-sided tape, but she reasonably suggests that it would last all of 15 minutes before falling off the wall. This is an apartment, so drilling holes or nailing anything down is completely out of the question.


texts: How do I fix a sticky spot on furniture made by a rubber ball?

texts: A large rubber ball for exercise rested against our cherry cabinet for some months.  When removed we found an eight inch circle where the furniture finish had become sticky.  We hoped it would return to normal, but after months it remains just a sticky or tacky, leaving fingerprints when touched.  What will bring back its smooth, solid finish?  We don't want to refinish the whole side of this large cabinet.


texts: Help with electrical plan. What's right, wrong, suggestions?

texts:
I'm trying to plan ahead for an electrical project on my basement. New ceiling lights (recessed and not), corresponding switches and some new outlets. I put a drawing together and I was wondering if I could use your guys' help in figuring out if I'm looking at the project from the right angle and if it's a good approach. Can you take a look at the plan and share any thoughts you might have? Like things I'm doing right/wrong...

Some notes on the drawing itself: the walls in filed with black represent walls I'm adding—new walls. The red represents existing elements (power outlets in this case) where I'm thinking about drawing power from for the new lights, outlets and switches. The green rectangles represent the areas of ceiling drywall I'm thinking of removing in order to accommodate for drilling the floor joists in ceiling from floor above and passing the necessary cables. The joists from ceiling run vertical in the image.

Thanks!


texts: How to indentify if the crack on plastered brickwalls is cosmetic or structural?

texts:
First up, I understand these kind of things are best left to experts' inspection and internet forums won't help much. I have called an engineer but until he arrives in a day or two, for my solace, I am asking this question. FYI I am just short of having a panic attack!

About the house

Ours is a three storeyed house about 35 years old. It is a brick wall and concrete plastered house all the way, typical of India, and has 11 columns in all. Till 2011 there was a small room on the third floor and the rest was terrace. In 2011 the room was extended incorporating the entire terrace. Before the extension we had contacted an engineer and he inspected the house and gave a go ahead. The problem is in this new floor.

About the cracks

Lately, possibly from the beginning of this year, I have noticed hairline cracks on all the walls. Most of them are thin and vertical. They don't go all the way. Some start at the top near the ceiling and stop midway. Some start midway and stop midway. None go all the way to the bottom to the floor, and none rise from there. Only two cracks have a vaguely diagonal shape but they don't continue all the way and stop midway. All the cracks stop abruptly. Although the cracks don't seem to be mirroring on both sides of the wall, they are present in some places (not all) and close to mirroring.

The cracks don't seem to be widening but I get to see more cracks the more I look. I am not sure if they were always there or are they developing newly. I am very scared TBH. The reason I am panicking is I have absolutely no clue about the seriousness. My father thinks they are just air cracks on the plaster. We had called the contractor (not the engineer) a couple of months back and he said the same.

What is a good layman's way of determining the seriousness of the cracks?

I have two related questions:

Isn't it a bit late for the structural defects, if any, to start showing up after three years? Shouldn't it be apparent during the construction or within the first few months?
If it is indeed structural, against my hope, will the house collapse without warning or will there be telltale signs?


texts: Conflicting instructions on refill tube with Fluidmaster universal repair kit

texts:
In the part that describes installation of the refill tube (via refill clip), the instructions say: "Warning: Placing the refill tube down the overflow pipe can cause significant waste of water".

But then on the other hand, in the troubleshooting section for the problem of "Water level in bowl is too low" it says "Make sure the refill tube supplies water to the overflow pipe".

What gives? How can those both be correct?


texts: Can I connect a dishwasher to a GFCI outlet that is part of a 20amp circuit that has a total of 2 GFCI outlets?


texts: Which mounting screws to use for Ikea Hoppvals?

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I recently bought these Ikea blinds (HOPPVALS).
To my surprise when I opened the package there was no mounting screws to use or any recommendation of what kind of screws would be the appropriate ones to use.

Any recommendations?


texts: How do I glue moving ceramic tiles without removing them?

texts:
There was a problem with the pipes under the floor, which resulted in several ceramic tiles being removed. At the moment these tiles are back in place. The problem is that 2 tiles next to them, that weren't completely detached, were glued back by injecting typical silicone under them. The problem is that now they balance a bit when we step on them.

The silicone method was suggested to me, and didn't work well. The tiles are being slowly taken off, moreover the tile grout cracked several days after because of that little movement.

My only idea is to inject some more silicon under the tiles, and fill the gaps using typical grout.

How can I glue these 2 tiles back without taking them off?

Note: There is a fair amount of silicone under the two detached tiles, there is no point in injecting tile grout.


texts: Is there a way to convert my regular toilet seat to one that's like a Toto...so the seat won't slam shut?

texts:
Are there hinges out there that I can use to convert my toilet seat so that it won't slam shut?
Other methods?


texts: Should I drill out pinhole leaks in cast iron drain stack before repairing with epoxy?

texts:
I've got a number of pinhole leaks in a section of cast iron drain piping I need to repair. (I know eventually I'll need to replace the sections--Im looking for a temporary fix that will last a year or so until we've saved enough to have it done right.) The pinholes are covered with scales, but on the advice of a friend I scraped and wire-brushed them off. He said then to kneed the epoxy into a ball then work it into the hole. However, now that I have the scales off i see no hole (I guess because on the outside its a pinhole). Should I press the putty into the area where tge he was or attempt to drill it out with a small-diameter bit first?

This is a question simar to How can i repair a nail head size leak on a vertical cast iron sewer pipe in my basement but I'm asking a more specific question.


texts: How can I remotely control electrical devices?

texts:
how can i turn on remotely or turn off the lights or TV with remote controller or via internet

which tools i need to prepare or buy to make the circuit or device that do this work?

is there any way to turn off all forget lights in 1 am.?


texts: toilet won't drain - appears to be no blockage

texts:
First floot toilet - extremely slow drain, more than 2 hours.
Bath - extremely slow drain, ditto.
Sink - gurgles a bit (also while bath trying to drain) but will drain with cold tap going full blast.

Tried to get a snake through the toilet bends and beyond with little success so I accessed the soil stack by removing the sink waste pipe at their junction and got all 25ft of the snake in and twirled it dementedly with no problem.

Decided that the blockage must be between the toilet and stack in the flexible (concertina type) waste pipe so removed the toilet pan revealing no visible blockage so I snaked again.  The spring head dropped easily all the way and I paid out all of it giving it lots of vigorous twirls on its journey and a good five minutes of twisting when I'd got no more snake left to play with.  On withdrawal there was one clump of long hair which amounted to even less than I've pulled from the bath plughole after I've taken a shower.

Reattached the sink waste and ran the sink to commence clean up before putting the toilet back into position and what looked to be the same amount of water I'd just run came out of the toilet waste pipe and onto the floor.

Bath waste pipe connects to soil stack approx 1 inch above floor level, sink waste connects approx 1 inch above bath waste, toilet waste connects at the level between bathroom floor and downstairs ceiling.

I've wondered if there was a blockage in the stack at roof level and if air pressure might be the cause of the problem but surely having the toilet pan off the waste would have balanced things and therefore there should have been no spillage onto the floor?

Why won't the water go down?

I'd appreciate your insights.  Cheers, Jane


texts: Can I add a 125amp panel to a current 125amp main panel?

texts:
I currently have an older 125amp QO square D panel with 16 total spaces. I'm trying to update some of the electrical in my house and have some overloaded circuits that I'm now separating and dedicating certain appliances. I don't have a lot of space in my current panel to re-feed some circuits or expand.
Few things to note:
My calculated total load for my home is approximately 63 amps (Assuming I calculated that properly). I have roughly 1600 SQ ft and all gas appliances. Vast  majority of said appliances are less than 10 years old and of higher efficiency. I did base my calculations using the nameplate value on all my main appliances.

I want to add AC this coming spring/summer. Otherwise I don't plan on adding more to the home pending I win the debate to not get a hot tub.
Tandem breakers are not much of an option since it's difficult to find them in the older QO style. Home Depot has them but with a "hook" for the point of attachment and that is not compatible. Furthermore, updating some things to code for GFCI or AFCI requires those to be breakers and not outlets since they would be inaccessible.

Ideally, I would prefer to upgrade the main service panel for one with a main disconnect and significantly more spaces at the very least and running a sub panel to my attached garage for convenience. Upgrading the panel with everything going on right now doesn't seem ideal plus wrestling whether or not to just do a service upgrade at that point and have peace of mind that I will have more than enough room for expansion if needed.

With all that being said. Can I place a 125amp sub panel with my existing 125amp main service panel? Feels weird that the sub panel would be the same amperge rating and having more spaces.
Otherwise, I'm wondering if I can use a 125amp rated panel with 100amp breaker and #3 Cu wire to get the more circuit spaces.
Also, would anyone recommend if I should place the AC circuit on the main or sub panel?

Looking forward to any advice.
Sorry to be long wimded.

***Note: sub panel would be on the same wall as the main panel and very close to one another.
The additon of AC would be on the exterior of that same wall right by the service entrance.


texts: Replacing a cooktop - old is electric and new is electric induction - Can i use the same wire and just change the breaker?

texts:
the old unit has these specs
POWER / RATINGS

Amp Rating at 208V  40

Amp Rating at 240V  40

KW Rating at 208V   6.7

KW Rating at 240V   8.8

and the new unit is an induction with these specs?

208 - 240 V - 60 Hz

440 Watts at 3.3 Amps

240V - 7.8kW at 32.5 Amps

208V - 7.1kW at 34.1 Amps

the current breaker is a Twin with 30Amps on each one.

Can i use the existing wire?
What breaker do i need if i need to change?

thanks for the help!


texts:
I purchased a stair tread from Home Depot that I wanted to use as a window sill. I think it's red oak. I stained several already and the stain didn't come out as nicely as I would have hoped. There were defects where the stain showed up in tiny scratches that were invisible to the eye. Also, the wood seems flat however very frequently the grain seems somewhat torn out, probably from when they cut the wood originally. It's hard to describe w/out a picture and my camera isn't that good. The grain is uneven and has tiny little dips all over it.

Is this "torn" grain something that I can eventually sand out? I've been sanding for a while w/ a random orbit sander, 80 grit sheet, and it doesn't seem to be making any difference. I'm sure polyurethane will cover it and it will still look good, but I'm trying to be a perfectionist here.

mj


texts: My appliances are shocking me...but only me

texts: The metal parts of the fridge, stove, and sink are shocking me. However, when my husband touches them, he gets nothing. I've also found that the metal gates and latches leading to the pastures are shocking me--the pasture fences are electrified fencing, but there is no reason the gates should be catching that current, and the fences are definitely grounded. No one else is getting shocked besides me, so I assume I'm somehow a mega-conductor?? Anyone else ever run into this problem? Cooking has become a serious issue...


texts:
I need a light duty rail in my kitchen to hang cleaning clothes just near the sink. After doing my market research, I saw a door handle with a suitable shape, something similar to this:

However it requires screwing from the other side; from my neighbor's flat and with a very long screw, theoretically speaking.

Is there an easy way to attach such a door handle onto kitchen tiles? If it required one screw, it could be done with a plug and a hanger bolt, however I need two points of attachment and the handle cannot be disassembled.


texts: Waterproof access door for electrical panel

texts:
I had an electrician upgrade my old fuse electrical panel with a new breaker panel. I was trying to save a bit of money and decided I would build the external access door for the main shutoff. However, it seems to be a bigger challenge than I was anticipating.

From the picture you can see the bottom of the panel barely clears the framing stud that runs diagonal when you open it -- circled in red. I originally was just going to frame around the box and attach a door but now that the diagonal board is there I'm not sure what to do.

Does anyone have any suggestion on what I can do here?


texts: How to level uneven ceiling joists for sheetrock placement

texts:
So I noticed that my 1961 year old one floor home joists are not even, some areas it's bowed down.
I ran a string line, I see about 1/2 inch low points in few areas.

I have read the standard fix to this is strap the ceiling with 1X3 straps, perpendicular to the joists at 16 on center.

If I do not want to have perpendicular straps crisscrossing my ceiling, can I level the ceiling by attaching 1/2 inch Birch Plywood strips, attached along the joists (not perpendicular), and shimming where necessary? Thank you.
Alex


texts: I am attempting to install a ceiling fan in an area that previously had a light fixture. I have installed the support and box. The ceiling has 2 of the old (cloth, both black) wires coming out of it. When I install the fan with the motor and light wires connected to one side, neutral to the other it doesn't work. it has power as I hardwired another light and that works. I also put an extension cord on the fan and plugged it into a wall socket so I know that works as well. as a side note, with fan wired, flipping switch will cause a "crackle" in my surround sound system in the next room over.  Any thoughts? Thanks.


texts:
I will be renovating my apartment (not by myself) and one of the issues I constantly face are power sockets: the place where I intended them to be ends up being the worst one (the majority hidden behind furniture and a socket desert where I actually need to plug something).

There are (or used to be) vampire taps for 10BASE5 cables which allowed a connection to be made on a cable without cutting it.

Are there such solutions for electrical sockets? I am sure that pure vampire sockets do not exist (the kind where one would actually cut into the cable) but maybe similar solutions for removable/movable sockets do?


texts: I need a replacement handle for this faucet, but I don't know the brand. Any info would be appreciated.


texts: How I fixed a broken spring in an extension ladder rung lock

texts:
I found many people have this issue with older ladders.  The biggest issue is older ladders use quite a different rung lock, so there's no replacement parts.  The spring on my ladder is a coil spring, kind of like ones found in clocks.  The end of the spring is folded over to make a clip that attaches to the side of the spring enclosure.  The first pic shows this (the red line indicates where the clip broke on the other one).

What I did to fix this is to use those fasteners you find on cars--called a spring nut.  I clipped that over the remaining piece of the clip and that secured it to the side of the spring enclosure (see second pic).  The spring nut is slim enough so it doesn't impede the functioning of the rung lock.


texts: 8 Foot T12 Flourescent ballast Requirements

texts:
I would like to understand how to evaluate a ballast and determine if it is suitable for a T12 8 foot flourescent bulb.   What is the process / questions to ask?

I have several known good working pulls and new ballasts that were inherited:


texts: What could cause my water tank to leak only when I turn off the main water supply?

texts:
I travel quite a bit and so leave my water heater breaker off - as I travel for extended periods (months).
In the past I used to leave the main water valve (near the meter) on - and would turn off individual shut off valves to the toilets, under the sinks etc...

during my last travel someone looking after the property decided to turn off the main and left the circuit breaker on. A few days later I had damage to the ceiling and laminate flooring. so I guesses with cold water off the pressure may have built up and that's why it leaked (circuit was on).

So I experimented again and earlier today (Oct 17 2014) I turned off the water and the circuit breaker and within an hour water was overflowing from the catch pan - so it looks like the drain connection from the pan is also clogged.

But more importantly why does the tank leak only when the main is off - i have been in the condo for two weeks now and the pan has been dry.

What causes the tank to leak under these circumstances? Do I need to replace it?
Mfg date is: 01/2006 installed in FL state.
50 Gal rheem.

any advice feedback would be appreciated.


texts:
I am replacing my RadonAway fan which has seemingly burnt out. However, the sticker on the current fan identifying the part number is self-contradictory:

It's marked as an RP265, but part number 23032-1 is the RP260 while 23033-1 is the RP265. Since there is a difference in flow rate, I want to make sure I purchase the correct one -- which one should I buy?


texts:
We have a really old toilet in one of our bathrooms which has started to leak around the tank bolts.  I was going to replace the bolts and washers but the nuts are completely seized and rusted to the bolts.  Due to placement I can only get about a 1" draw on a hack saw (which doesn't really cut well) so I can't easily cut them that way.

How can these be removed without shattering the tank?


texts: toliet backing up after roter rooter and replaced toliet

texts: Toilet started backing up. Called roter rooter. Unclogged but they suggested it was the toilet (old)  Replaced with new toilet however after my husband used toilet it backed up and wouldn't flush


texts: 1930s roof with no felt lining, solutions without removing roof

texts:
I've recently bought a 1930s house and looking in the loft space there's no felt lining. You can see the backside of the tiles from the inside. What would be the best way to achieve some sort of insulation / roof protection without having to remove the roof tiles? For example is there a spray-on product that creates the same effect as felt?

I'm trying to find the simplest way of bringing the roof into the present day without having to remove the tiles.

Any advice would be wonderful!

Thank you.

Mark Lawrence


texts: Is it possible to seal a leak that's coming through a fitting?

texts: I've got a brass valve in my plumbing system that has a leak coming through the valve body wall.  I can watch tiny droplets of water diffusing through the metal itself.  I'm positive the connections on the fitting are good, and that they do not leak.  My guess is that the casting process went wrong somehow.  Short of replacing the valve, which would be a pain but would be possible, is there any way to seal this leak?


texts:
I had a dishwasher plugged into the wall. The dishwasher plug has always been a little iffy but we have never had a problem with it before. It shorted while the dishwasher was running and I caught it pretty fast but it scorched the wall a little and obviously the plug.

I pulled the plate to make sure there was no internal scorching etc and everything appears to be in order. I realize I will probably have to replace the cover but the wall plug has a ton of melted rubber on it as well. Will I need to replace that or will scraping it be enough? (after turning off the power obviously)

Is there a better option?


texts: how to wire two switches in one box with three wires , two of the go to different lights, which one is hot

texts:
If somebody could help me with this, please! There are two switches in a box. I wanted to put a timer on one switch, so I disconnected it. Then I realized that the timer needs a neutral and there is no neutral in that box. So I reconnected the switch but now one switch is depended on the other. Here is my puzzle. There are three wires, white, black and red, I am not even sure which one is hot, but there is obviously one hot and two are loads (lights). So which one is hot?? I connected black to both switches and one switch to white and another to red. The results is one switch turns on lights only if the other switch is on. I reconnected to the white as common - the same thing. Maybe red is common, but something is fishy here, as I don't remember it being common.
So how I determine for sure which is hot and how to make sure the switches are not influencing each other
Thank you in advance


texts: When the radiator is leaking and it's throwing out water

texts: Could the vapor that comes out of the radiator be harmful to a person. The room got full of yellow brown spot all over the walls.


texts: How to remove old wires of utility companies

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I have a bunch of old wires between my house and a pole across the street.  How do I get rid of them?  I don't even know what companies they belong to.  I only know that I use the electricity cable and the FIOS cable and everything else is something I'm not likely to ever need in my life and in the life of anyone who buys or rents the house from me.

I'm talking about 5 or 6 different cables which I'd gladly get rid of at least from the point where they touch my house.  What options do I have?


texts:
Residential storm inlet overflowing and blocked in the car park.
Removed water but was unsure what to do next or how the mechanics of the inlet work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


texts: Deal with humidity in Garage with no vapor barrier

texts: My garage slab has no vapor barrier and I live in Houston which is often wet and almost invariably humid. Water seeps up through the concrete and humidity is always pretty high in the garage. Power tools don't care much but my chisels and hand planes are a red mess after a few months which requires very deep and cumbersome cleaning. Is my only option to install a vapor barrier and add on 3 or more inches of concrete on top? Would it be possible to wait for a long dry spell and apply some kind of sealant or will this just peel off as the water moves up?


texts: Understanding the wiring of 2-Pole Quad Circuit Breakers

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I only want to understand the concept, so you dont have to address if my panel accepts tandem breakers or a certain brand of breakers.   I will also omit any reference to ground wires for clarity.  I am in north america and have two 120v hots and one neutral coming into my panel.

Thank you for any help!

PART 1:

I want to see if i properly understand how to wire 2-Pole Quad Circuit Breakers.
Here is an example pic:

To wire this breaker, I would run three cables, lets say romex.  two of the three  would be identical - they would be 14/2 (14 gauge wire, with one hot, one neutral).

One cable of romex will go to the top 15amp breaker, and one to the bottom 15 amp breaker -- I Would attach the hot wire to the top screw, and bring the neutral to the neutral bus, and repeat the same process for the bottom, with its own hot and neutral from the second strand of romex.  These 2 now function like independent 120v, 15 amp circuit breakers.

Next, the third strand of romex.  It would need to be at least 10gauge wire because the center breaker is 30 amp.  It would also need to be 3 wire romex with two hots, and one neutral.

I would attach the two hots to the two center screws, and the neutral to the neutral bus.  Now it functions like a 240v, 30 amp double pole breaker.

Does part 1 all look correct?  If so, here are my next questions for part 2 and 3:

Part 2:

Focusing only on the 30 amp, 240v middle part:
I run the 10gauge romex to a box and i install a 30 amp 240v outlet, that has 3 slots including ground slot. i would connect the two hots, and ground.

(I just cap the neutral off with a wire nut and leave it for future expansion of more outlets down the line, or if i want to change to a four prong outlet that needs a neutral, correct?)

This outlet can now supply a device with 7,200 watts (240v x 30amps), or for safety, 80% of 7,200 watts, which is 5,760 watts.

What if instead of installing the 30amp outlet, i want to install 2 receptacles, lets say they are both 20 amp duplex outlets.

To wire them, I connect one hot wire to the gold screw of the first outlet, and the other hot to the gold screw of the second outlet.  I pigtail the neutral wire, and connect 1 pigtail each to the silver screw of outlet 1 and 2.

I believe this would be called a multi-wire branch circuit (mwbc)?

Each receptacle can safely handle 1,920 watts of power draw, which is 80% of 120v x 20amps.  So if i have two devices that both draw about 1,900 watts of continuous power, i could plug one into one receptacle, and one into the other receptacle, and they could both safely run without tripping the breaker, or overheating, is this all correct?

Ok, so if everything is correct so far, here is my final question:

Part 3

Lets say instead of the first quad breaker show, i buy this one:

Now the two outer 15amp breakers are tied together, and i assume they internally trip together.  So lets say instead of running the two separate 14/2 romex cables to these two 15 amp breakers, i now run just one 14/3 romex, and i connect one hot to the top, and one hot to the bottom, and neutral to bus.

I could now have a mwbc like the example above, except with 15 amp outlets, and each receptacle would only safely supply 1,440 watts (80% x 120v x 15amps).

Im guessing I could also then wire a single 15amp outlet rated for 240v, in a similar method to the wiring of the 30amp outlet described above?  I dont think there is any reason to do that in america, because no devices require that, or have a plug that would fit, but im just curious.

Is this all okay to do, since they will now trip together, and must be shut off together?

Thank you so much for your time!


texts: How can I tell whether this roofing material is hazardous to tear down?

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I've got this little building in my garden that needs to be completely removed to make room for building a real house. To keep costs down, I'll be doing most of the tear-down myself but I'm unsure about the roof because I am worried that the material might be hazardous.

I don't know what material the roof is made of. It's shaped like corrugated metal but it's not metal. It feels like a kind of hardened fiber material, and is hard as stone or shingles. It's approximately 5 millimeters thick, and there are a few slabs more lying around in the back of the garden.

How can I determine whether the material is safe for me to handle? The building is roughly 60 years old and I can't ask the previous owner and builder.

Background:
I don't know English product names for this kind of material but I know that in Denmark many years ago there used to be roofs like this that contained asbestos. That material was prohibited and replaced by "eternit" (the Danish word for it) which turned out to be dangerous too, so it was also prohibited and replaced by "masonit" (Danish again) which is safe.


texts: 1963 home New Zealand electrical wiring question

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I have a house that was built in 1963. I was sure the wiring was upgraded at one point. I went to install a new switch in my daughter's room and found exposed twisted copper running to the earth terminal.
I figured it was an earth bonding wire, however, should it be used as earthing for a power outlet? Granted the outlet has a switch on it.
You guys reckon I should just get someone in to rewire?


texts: Is the live block connection to go into the STC1000 correct?

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The red wire goes into the live block of the STC1000 that I am working with (on the other end.) As I understand it, the red wire should be attached to the right pin (left in the image) of the plug. However the local electrician tells me my current connection as shown in the photo is correct.
Can someone take a look and confirm that the connection is correct with respect to the live block connection?


texts:
I have a set of fluorescent tubes (2) in my kitchen and they both do not work (noticed while I came home).

Normally one of the starters is broken and I replace it but this time both lights to not work. Changing starts neither.

What can I best do component inside but I don't know if I can buy it separately and I wonder if buying new tubes will help if maybe there might be some other problem.


texts: We built our home about 34 years ago and we have a private well. For the last several years, we’ve experienced our water will shut off for 2-3 minutes in the entire home, then return to full flow. My husband has changed the pressure switch and things would work fine for several months. Here lately we’ve experienced more frequent issues with the water shutting off and changing the pressure switch only helps for a week and back to shutting off. Now it’s happening several times daily. We get plenty of rain, so I don’t think we have the issue of needing to dig a new well.


texts: A tenant in my rental home had the programmable thermostat shown below installed by an electrician friend. Unfortunately, neither the tenant nor the friend has its instructions and can't remember where it was purchased. I've taken it apart and can find no branding on the outside cover or on the circuit board. I can't identify it by scanning through Google images. Can someone identify this thermostat so I can track down an owner/operator manual? Thank you!


texts: Painting over paint with rust spots coming through

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I recently sanded down two beams to remove the rust and then painted over them with a "rust inhibitor" and then two coats of a basic ceiling paint.

However there are now numerous rust spots coming through. I could sand them down again, de-rust them again and paint over again, but I fear that if I missed spots last time I'll miss spots again. So...

Should I use a chemical de-ruster
Can I paint over the current paint with something like Zinsser's Bulls Eye 1-2-3


texts: How to lay tile backer board on sandy cement floor

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I've just removed some super old tiles from my bathroom floor.

Most of the now exposed concrete is in decent condition. However the cement is a little soft / sandy around the drain area (it's an old terraced house with extension over drain).

I'm laying tile backer boards over the floor before the tiles.

What should I do about this slight sandy area. Would it be ok to level with tile adhesive or should I try something else.

Pictures


texts: Can I install a new 30A breaker in an empty slot in 125A panel?

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I got one of these Wen #3403 Dust Collectors as a Christmas gift and I'm wondering if hooking it up is a matter of installing a new breaker and running a 10/2 line to the garage. I have air conditioners and pool equipment, etc. already hooked up, but no other appliances except smaller 15 and 20A things.

It says in one place that it needs 110V an 25A breaker, and in another that it needs a  30A breaker. It seems to run at 12-16A, but I imagine needs some extra for starting up.

I've read that code requires it to be hard-wired with a switch. Is that true? What's the harm in using the plug for occasional use, etc. Also, since it's a garage, do I need a GFCI outlet?


texts:
We moved this fridge ( GE mod:GSS22JEPD BB ) and had to remove the doors.

In the process of removing the freezer door, I believe we cracked the water tube. Now when connecting the fridge to a water line, we notice water leaking from the tube right by the door hinge.

I bought a new water line to replace this. Unfortunately, every tutorial I found does not show me how to get this dispenser out of the door and replace the tube.

I tried pulling on the nozzle, but seems quiet stuck.

Can someone please help.

UPDATE:
Unfortunately, I found out that I cannot replace this particular water tube, I would have to replace the entire door. Is there any way to somehow seal the portion of the tube by gluing a seal as a 'wrapper' of sorts instead of shelling out $hundreds for a door? Any creative suggestions?


texts: LED lights won't come on at the same time

texts: I renovated a kitchen and put in 4 recessed LED lights. They are daisy-chained, 3-way, with an LED compatible dimmer (just one, other switch is just a 3-way switch) When I turn on the lights (from either switch) 2 of the lights don't come on (same 2 every time) When I turn the switch off, the 2 that don't light up flash brightly, then, when I turn the switch on again, all the lights come on. If i turn the lights off and turn them back on within 10 min. they all come on fine, but if I wait longer, the same 2 won't come on, but again, flash, then come on when I turn off/on. Same 2 lights every time. Same pattern every time. HELP!


texts: How can I prevent refinished tub from chipping?

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I've used the Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit twice over the last 4 or 5 years for a rental property I own and each time a renter leaves, the finish as chipped off in several spots. It's usually worse around the drain.

Is there a way to keep this from happening?


texts:
[![enter image description here][1]][1]

I am replacing 3 switches. 1 controls a light the other controls the dishwasher and the 3rd controls the disposal.

After replacing the switches,the disposal and dishwasher are not working. I checked the breaker, ruled out bad switches, and
still did not find the problem.  I noticed the old stitches had no ground screws and the new switches do. All of the white wires are joined and coupled together in the box. I have attached a photo and hopefully I have given enough detail to help with a solution.

[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZetSX.jpg


texts: How to take apart this bed frame joint with hidden screws

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How can I take apart the pictured bed frame joint? It doesn't have visible screw heads on the outside of the footboard (image 1), and the recess in the runner that contains he screw is covered by some kind of lock (image 2).

I tried turning the hexagonal opening with an Allen key, but it doesn't move for more than half a turn.


texts: My light switch make a loud noise when used slowly; does it need to be replaced / fixed?

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I have a 3-way switch that controls 6 recessed CFL floods.

One of the switches consistently makes a loud crackling / popping noise when used slowly.  The other switch if played with slowly enough will make a quiet pop after several trys.

Should either of these switches be repaired / replaced?


texts: How do I frame walls on an uneven concrete slab?

texts:
I'd like to convert (and finish) the back section of my 2-car tandem garage into a separate utility room.  This would involve 4 walls and a floor.  2 of the walls would be attached to concrete walls, 1 would be attached to existing house/garage wall, one would be new to separate front car space from rear utility space. My concrete slab garage floor is sloped towards the center to allow for drainage into a sewer pipe.

How do I frame everything to be plumb and level when the garage floor has slope?


texts: My electric oven surface gets too hot when oven is on. Is this normal?

texts: The top of my electric coil stove gets so hot that to even leave a wooden spoon on it and pick it up will burn my hands . Is this normal?


texts: Reason for no header spanning this load bearing wall?

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I'm fairly certain this is a load bearing wall as the beam in the basement is directly below this wall.

My question is, shouldn't the area pointed at with the white arrows have a header if this is a load bearing wall? There's another door opening that goes all the way to the ceiling on the right side of the TV wall as well.

My intentions here are to open up that wall as a window pass through to the kitchen, keeping the columns intact (the light blue area as an example).

I'm not sure what's inside the column or if that's what's bearing the load.

So basically 2 questions:

Why is there no header for the full height doorways?

Do I need to add a header that spans the width of that area, or would removing those 2 studs in the middle be fine regardless?


texts:
Everything was working last night but no hot water this morning. Things I have checked:

gas supply to the house is fine
electricity is going to the boiler
fuses are good
sounds like the water pump is working
thermostats click correctly

But there is no spark, and not even the usual click for the igniter.


texts:
My father and I have been re-wiring our home's telephone lines, and in doing so, we found these components attached to loose wires.

They are both labelled "3M". One says "C22" and the other says "B27".

I think they might be end caps for the wires, but we've never seen anything similar. Does anyone know what they are?


texts:
I recently bought a Makita cordless drill w/no battery i have a battery for this model but it says it uses a NiCd battery which mine isnt. can i still use this battery?

Thanks


texts: Can the wire from the y terminal on thermostat be connected to the c terminal on heater board as pictures show?

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My nest was installed with no c wire and it lost power. At this point the tech looked at the wiring diagram in a/c unit outside but I do not know what he did. A/c worked but later nest had no power. I had turned off the pilot from furnace. I wonder if this affected.

Then a 2nd tech came and connected the brown wire to c (which was previously not connected) and the yellow wire to C also. Tech did not do anything to outside a/c and I am wondering if he needed to adjust the wiring at outside unit so that a/c works.  Fan works, heater works but a/c does not turn on.

Thanks for any help figuring this out!

[![enter image description here][2]][2]


texts: What kind of Shower fitting can I install in a stock tank to tub conversion?

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I have a 4ft stock tank (something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/tarter-71-gallon-galvanized-steel-stock-tank/3159637) and an almost done tiny house.

I'm trying to convert it into a tub with a shower. Knowing nothing about plumbing I purchased this https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-42099-NO-CALK-Stainless-Strainer/dp/B000BO57AS only to realize it comes up very far off the flat floor of the stock tank. I only realized this after I drilled a 2.5 inch hole in the floor. eek!

What kind of drain can I use to get the flattest possible drain? It doesn't have to be totally flat, but close enough. Is there a name for what I need? Everything I've found so far on amazon and lowes seems to be geared for tile or fiberglass installs.

Thanks!


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I'm reassembling the gas line to my hot water heater. I'm at the last joint and I have the problem shown in Fig. 1.

I need to join A to B where A and B are both male and both fixed at the other end. So I'm considering using a coupler C. The problem is, no matter which way I rotate C, it's going to loosen at either A or B while tightening at the other. (And I need C to tighten at both A and B.)

How do I solve this problem and join A to B? Is there maybe a different fitting to use? Am I missing something, either obvious or not-so-obvious?

Fig.1. Union of two male, fixed pieces of pipe

Edit: I just found this related answer over at engineering.SE.


texts: My oven insulation is burning when I bake

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My oven burns every time I bake. The insulation always seems to light up when I use it.
Also, some rats infested it a while back and really caused damage but they all died.


texts: When is the best time of year to install a fence?

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Is there any right time to put the fence up in the backyard considering you have saved enough $$$s? Looking at the winter season we have and snow in coming months, is this the right time or should i wait until spring?

P.S.: I am not gonna do it by myself. I am gonna hire some professional fence company.


texts: Want to retile my bathroom, but found masonry filling under old tile

texts: I had an area of bathroom tile that had fallen lower than the rest of the floor.  When I started to explore under the 67 year old tile, I found a masonry "sub floor" that is crumbling. Under the masonry is a wood sub floor. My question--  Should I remove all the old crumbling masonry and rebuild a sub floor to support my new tile floor?  (The old floor has settled quite a bit- at least an inch in the corner.)


texts: Pressure testing radiator system with expansion tank

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I would like to pressure test a closed hydronic radiator system that has an expansion tank on it. I can detach the furnace, shut the water supply, and then mount a gauge with a nozzle on it that I can pump to something like 15-20 psi of compressed air and hope it keeps the pressure, meaning no leaks. I've done that with my gas pipes before successfully.

I am only concerned about the expansion tank. Should I remove it and put a plug in its system socket, or can it withstand that kind of pressure? I'm afraid of it exploding.


texts: Do the posts for a carport sun shade need to be embedded in the ground?

texts:
I have an existing concrete area approx 10'x16' at the back of my carport. I want to install a sun shade/sail over it and have some questions on installing the posts I need.

Can I use the existing concrete with either 4x4 or 6x6 post bases (something like the Simpson strong ties at Home Depot) with concrete anchors? Will this be strong enough? was thinking of using 10' long posts.
If I go this route, do I need to attach the posts with some type of header beam to deal with potential diagonal forces?
Or do I need dig new holes for the posts and use new footings?


texts: How can I seal up this gap on top to make it smellproof

texts: As you can see, at the top of my door there's an open panel with fixed glass panes attached to allow airflow through. How should I best seal that giant gap up so that I can install air-conditioning in this room?


texts: Gas pipe from meter starts at 1" then expands to 1.25"

texts: The first line coming from the T on my gas meter is 1" but the line after the elbow, going into the house, is 1.25".  I'm going to be adding a gas range and need the capacity of the 1.25" pipe to supply all my appliances including the range.  Is that first length of 1" pipe going to restrict the flow and capacity of the 1.25" pipe?


texts: The wall has broken quite badly around a plug socket in our bedroom and I don't know how to fix it. First time buyer as of yesterday and TOTAL DIY newby! Any help, gracefully appreciated. You can find a picture below.


texts: Garage door immediately reversing when trying to close

texts:
I have a Ryobi garage door opener. It's been working fine until recently when trying to close it. The opener will try to close when pressing the button but then immediately reverse back open. I don't believe the safety sensor is obstructed; when waving my hand through the sensor I can see the green LED turning off and on indicating it's getting blocked and unblocked. The safety sensor LED is normally on when not being obstructed, and it is on when trying to close the opener.
I've tried disconnecting the trolley from the opener bullet. While the trolley is disconnected:

With the door in the closed position, the opener bullet will close fully.
With the door in any open position, the opener bullet will immediately reverse back to open in the same manner as when the trolley is attached.

What else can I check?


texts: What causes mold on brand new porcelain tile--literally after only 4 well-ventilated showers with fan on?

texts:
I just had a brand new addition to my house constructed including a new bedroom and master bathroom installed.  All went well with two caveats:  (1) there was substantial flooding in the house near the shower area from an unsealed roof cut (2) there were some leaks in the walls near the shower from the new windows (contractor's installation fault), and (3) there was some minor flooding in the one shower wall at one point due to contractor forgetting to shut off the water and cutting some lines.  We also just experienced the wettest winter in 5-10 years in No. CA. Anyway, we have now used the shower ONLY 4 TIMES (with window open and fan on) and there is already significant blackening (mold-looking) on the porcelain tile.  The tile store says this shouldn't happen.  Contractor is claiming no knowledge.  It doesn't make sense to us how this could even happen.

Numerous locations like this


texts: Nest thermostat causing condenser unit contactor to chatter when NOT calling for cooling

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I have dual transformers, separate heating and AC.

I've recently installed a nest learning thermostat (3rd gen). This is my wiring.  The c wire comes from the the transformer on the AC side (pairs with Rc). The system works and is able to call for both heat and cooling.

However the problem I noticed is that when AC is off, the outside condenser unit has a chattering noise. I removed the side panel on the unit and found that it's the contactor trying to actuate.

I actually have another nest thermostat E but it also causes the same chattering.

I tried my old thermostat - no chattering.

It's like the nest is leaking a small voltage to the Y1 wire even if it's not calling for cooling.

After a long chat with the nest support, they asked me to remove the c wire and it did stop the chattering and they are asking me to go without the c wire. However based on what I've researched, not having a c wire could cause a lot of potential issues down the road.

I've read a reddit post that suggests adding an isolation relay (though the post added the relay on the heating side). I have not purchased a relay yet but did sketch the wiring that I think should work .

I'm wondering if the relay is going to work or there is other solutions. If the underlying issue is indeed leaked voltage, then will having a relay simply hide the problem, e.g. the chattering may occur at the relay?

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated! Thank you!


texts: Can I use corrugated metal roofing panels as soffits and paint them?

texts:
I have several sheets of Corrugated Steel Roofing (see picture) from a replaced roof, and I would like to re-use them as a soffit under a porch, and paint them white or black.
How should I prep the sheets, and what type of paint should I use?
The soffits are obviously outside but not directly exposed to rain/snow or sun/UV: they are mounted with the "exterior" side down, not up as would be the case with a roof.
The panels/sheets are from a used roof and after some scrubbing/power washing they seem to be in good condition.
My thoughts were:

power wash & scrub moss etc...
light sanding to scruff the surface
maybe muratic acid, maybe primer?
paint with exterior acrylic, but maybe interior latex would work too?
to apply paint, use a roller? or brush?

No rain/snow, no sun/UV, but wet climate.


texts: Am I ready to install window framing in load bearing wall?

texts:
I'm looking to add a window to an exterior, load-bearing wall. In front of the wall (which rests on the foundation) is another "wall" framed for wood paneling.
I need to cut through the studs A and B on the outside wall to add a header and the rest of the framing.
My question is whether the inside wall will support the load as I complete the framing. The inside wall has studs going to the concrete subfloor and the top abuts the floor joists above. In the second picture you can see how the floor joists are almost doubly supported.
My plan is to cut studs A and B, add the header and jack studs to the outside wall, then once that is in I can cut out the opening in the inside wall.


texts: Does a homeowner need a permit for electrical work in Massachusetts?

texts:
Does a homeowner need to obtain a permit from the town in order to do electrical work on his own house in Massachusetts?  The unofficial answers I can find online (e.g., this forum and the websites of various towns) are all over the place, and apparently the answers one gets when calling town wiring inspectors also varies, so I am looking for an authorative source.  There are examples of towns saying that only licensed electricians can do wiring work (e.g., Stoneham and Wayland), but also many towns that say the opposite and issue permits to homeowners (e.g., Greenfield, Carlisle, and Marion), so I don't consider town web pages authorative.

M.G.L. ch. 143 §3L says that “No person shall install for hire any electrical wiring or fixtures subject to this section without … giving notice to the inspector of wires … by mailing or delivering a permit application form …”.  This seems to indicate that electrical work that is not for hire does not need a permit, but I don't know if it's the whole story.

The final paragraph of the same section of the law says that “Any person installing for hire electrical wiring or fixtures subject to this section shall notify the inspector of wires in writing upon the completion of the work. The inspector of wires shall, within five days of such notification, give written notice of his approval or disapproval of said work.”  Again limited to work for hire.

(In order to avoid localizing this question further, let's ignore the fact that individual towns may have stricter rules.  And it's obviously dangerous for a homeowner to do electrical work he is not qualified for, so many of us should hire an electrician for everything except the simplest work.)


texts: What can I use to fill a 6-10mm gap between ceiling and front door structure?

texts:
I live in a 1930s house with a small, open porch (as in no external door) in front of my main UPVC front door. Not long ago, the original lath and plaster ceiling in the hallway fell down quite spectacularly. We've had the ceiling replaced with a modern 9mm plasterboard (screwed to the joists this time!), skimmed with a thin layer of multifinish plaster

Unfortunately, the original hallway ceiling extended out over the timber structure that comprises the front door frame and surrounding glazing in to the open porch (the top piece you can see in the photo looks like upside-down skirting), and the thickness of the new ceiling is less than that of the old ceiling - as such we have a varying gap of between 6-9mm that spans the width of the hallway above the front door. As you can imagine, this has a resulted in a not insignificant draft.

My first thought was something as simple as caulk or silicone sealant to fill the gap, however the gap is quite awkward in the corners, so will likely look pretty shoddy if it works at all.

My second thought was expanding foam, but I don't see how I could get close to good finish, and the nozzle won't go in the gap at its narrowest.

My third (and probably best so far) thought was to cut and corner some timber beading of some kind (perhaps with expanding foam in the gap first) and caulk around that.

Is beading the right way to go or is there something else I should consider?

This may only need to be a temporary solution as we are considering replacing the front door and surrounding glazing when funds allow.

Related: Which material to use for filling those gaps?


texts: Is it OK to drill/notch an end joist (not rim/band joist) as long as it's continuously supported by a foundation wall?

texts:
I'm in the process of trying to run some CAT6 and speaker wire at various places in my house.  One of the things I'd like to do is run speaker wire in the living room to a wall plate behind my sofa, for the surround sound speakers.  This is an exterior wall that runs parallel to the joists in the crawlspace below.  Thus, it rests directly on an end joist.  Running wire through it will require drilling up at an angle through the joist, creating a diagonal hole or what may wind up being a notch.

I've found previous discussions of this issue, such as this one on this very forum,, or this one on another forum, where people say it's OK to do this through a rim joist (aka band joist.)  However, I'm given to understand that the term "rim" or "band" joist refers specifically to the joist at the end that is perpendicular to the other joists and which they butt into, whereas the joists at the end that are parallel to the other joists are called "end" joists.  Now, the logic by which this is said to be OK is that the rim joist is continuously supported by the foundation wall, so the segment you'd be drilling into, between studs, is not really bearing any weight or tension.  But in my case, the end joist I want to drill through is also continuously supported by the foundation wall, so I don't see why the same logic wouldn't apply.

Furthermore, the builder has already done this, having drilled a diagonal hole here and there at points in this joist to run romex for power outlets along the exterior wall.  I would just like to drill a somewhat larger hole (1 1/8") to accommodate ENT conduit.  Can anyone comment on whether this would be OK?


texts: How to fake this concrete effect with paint?

texts:
I'm attempting to imitate this concrete wall (at least I think it's real concrete!), using acrylic paint.

For my initial attempt I was thinking of working with two grays (one slightly lighter) - First a layer of the darker color, followed with a watered down (and slightly patchy) later of the same, then a the lighter paint (maybe also watered down) where needed.

What are my chances of getting a similar effect?  Do you have any tips or alternative approaches?

Thank you!

EDIT: I'll be painting on an already painted, solid wall (plastered brick).


texts: Can I cut the wood between struts in my attic?

texts: My attic has these 1x4 slats nailed between struts in my attic. They don't seem to be very important, as they're clearly not load bearing. They also seem to be put up pretty sloppily. The problem is, I'm a big guy, and navigating around these this is pretty painful. Can I safely cut these without compromising the roof?