texts: Dimmer switch only dims one of two lights?

texts: I have two ceiling lights in my living room controlled by a single switch. I wanted to install a dimmer switch to control/dim both of them. I installed the switch but the dimmer only dims one of the two lights. Although it will turn both lights on and off. Why? And is there a way to dim both lights?


texts: Which concrete mix is better for these particular countertop dimensions?

texts:
Background:

Been going back and forth about which option to go with so thought I should ask the community what you think and which concrete mix is best.
Dimension for each slab are listed in the table.
As you can see, opting for 2" thick countertops.
Listing three options that are available to me in my area.

Of these options, which is best?

Quikrete 5000
Quikrete Countertop mix
Spec Mix Premium Concrete Countertop Mix

1) is the most economical, but worried it's not the right product for the job unless maybe I add PVA fibers? 2) Is supposed to be made for countertops but it's hard to get in my area and I haven't heard great things about it. 3) Is pretty expensive and would cost me close to $465 before tax.


texts: What is this landing/wrap-around feature on porch steps called.

texts: What is this style or feature called? If it has a name...!


texts: Whole house humidifier when furnace is in unconditioned space

texts:
I have 2 furnaces, one in the garage and one in the attic. These are both spaces with unconditioned air, so they get very cold in the winter. The contractor who helped me configure my garage furnace told me that he rarely recommends condensing (high-efficiency) furnaces in unconditioned spaces as the water condensate they discharge can freeze, and then the furnace may not turn out until it's thawed. Another issue in unconditioned spaces is placing a humidifier. My original garage furnace was attached to a humidifier that froze and broke.

It's now autumn and my furnaces are heating the house significantly. As a result, they're sapping all the humidity from the air in the house and we're feeling very dry.

Is there a way to install a large or central humidifier that will not freeze? Does it need to be installed in the unconditioned spaces with the furnaces, or can it be installed elsewhere in the system?


texts: You can see the ring is broken on the right side.


texts: How to repair broken drywall (gypsum exposed)

texts:
I had some water damage in my laundry room. We had some water damage pros take care of any potential mold issues. But they were not very careful removing the baseboard, and the bottom 2-3 inches has large gouges down to the gypsum, and sections that have just broken off.

Can I use something like Rust-Oleum problem surface sealer to reseal and install new baseboard? Or should I cut the drywall out and reinstall? I want to prevent any mold regrowth since this is in a laundry room that can have higher than average humidity occasionally.


texts: Three 15 A receptacles on a 20 A breaker

texts:
I need to wire three (3) 15 A receptacles. I also have some spare yellow 20 A Romex laying around.
Is there any issue with wiring those up? I got a dedicated 20 A breaker to daisy chain the three.


texts: Can I use individual wires in PVC conduit for just a portion of a kitchen circuit?

texts: I was planning on running 2 black 2 white and 1 green 12 gauge wires through flex from panel to kitchen wall, then changing to rigid pvc to go under ground to kitchen island for microwave and gfi circuits but the project manager insists I use cable until I switch to pvc because of cost. I didn't realize it would save that much money and prefer not having unnecessary junction boxes. so I just thought I'd ask if there were any potential issues before doing it his way. Thank you.


texts: Spot light LED bulbs (MR16) flash once when turned on. If I put 1 normal halogen in then it solves the problem. Why?

texts:
I have 5 spot light bulbs in my bathroom. All use MR16 connection. I replaced them all with 5w LEDs and when I turn on the switch they flash once then go off. If I remove one so there's only 4 then the same thing happens. However, if I put one of the old halogen 20w bulbs in then all the LED bulbs stay on and everything is fine.

Why is this happening? And what can I do to get rid of that last halogen and replace it with an LED?


texts: Lighting circuit trips breaker every time

texts:
I have a lighting circuit in my home like so:

Every time I turn on the switch, the breaker trips. This circuit has existed for over four years and only now has the problem begun.

I've checked all connections (neutral in the switch was burnt from the original, probably caused the original trip) and they are all fine. In the moment before tripping, all bulbs are lit.

Any ideas what is wrong and what is the remedy? I'm hoping for options that don't require a rewire as that would mean a re-plaster. :(

Note:

There are actually ten bulbs in the circuit, but I drawn only three for brevity.
The bulbs are actually 50W GU10 down lighters.

what I've tried so far:

Removed all but one bulb from the circuit
Replaced the bulb
Tested the bulb in another circuit proving it works
Removed the bulb
Replaced the switch with a proved to be working one
Removed the switch
Moved the switch to the neutral wire
Changed the RCB

All of these result in the same outcome. The breaker always trips.

Update
The following diagram demonstrates how the physical wiring runs:


texts: Can I perform a large ceiling drywall repair myself?

texts:
A leaky roof caused water damage to an area of the ceiling approximately 3' x 4'. The ceiling also has a nearby crack that seems to follow a joint, bringing the total affected area to about 5' x 8'. The room itself is 13' x 16':

Is it reasonable to cut out an area of drywall that amounts to about 20% of the total area and patch it with a new sheet of drywall the way one would patch a smaller area? Is there anything that I should do differently for such a large repair? Finally, is this a project that a competent do-it-yourselfer can manage, or should I call a pro?


texts: Choosing a wire gauge for a commercial dishwasher

texts:
I am hooking up a 3ph, 208/230v commercial dishwasher.
There is approx. 125' from panel to washer.
Is 4awg my best bet with a 60amp circuit and a disconnect 5' away from washer?


texts: How can I close off a toilet drain in a concrete floor

texts:
I want to remove the toilet and turn the bathroom into a laundry room.

How can I close off the drain?


texts: How can I attach a ledger board to my house?

texts:
Spring is here so I finally started to take measurements for materials I will need to build a new deck on my recently constructed home. I just realized that this isn't going to be quite so simple as I originally planned.

My house was constructed with engineered I beams and what I believe is an engineered OSB rim joist perpendicular to those (looking from the back of the house). Knowing this I knew that lag screws or even carriage bolts to hold a ledger board would not be sufficient.  Upon my own research it seemed the accepted way to handle this is to take a piece of 2 by into the inside of the I of the joist, and run a carriage bolt, through the ledger board, sheathing, rim joist and finally the added block, and to do this twice, staggered and 16" OC for each joist after that.

My father-in-law who has built several decks and is critical to this DIY project refuses to do this and he has his reasons which I respect and won't get into.

A better plan in his opinion would be something similar to what is described in this article

In the old days when he built decks with his dad, they used to lag and anchor ledger boards to the concrete foundation and then toenail the joists on top. They apparently make special ties now for this purpose that is an improvement on the old toe-nail method. It seems like a much better idea and if I use 2x10 or 2x12 joists then the deck will be pretty much at the bottom of the kitchen door where it needs to be.

Question 1: I assume that if these clips are still being produced that it must be code assuming proper lag screws and spacing have secured the ledger board?

My second complication... assuming I go this route, only 1 deck ledger board will be attached to a poured concrete wall (the garage).  The very back of the house is actually not a poured foundation wall but a 2x6 framed exterior wall with sheathing, and a decorative stone masonry product.

Question 2: If I were to cut away the masonry and lag into the 2x6 studs for the ledger support, would this be a sturdy code compliant ledger board?

And finally, if applicable, if I were to cut away the masonry to mount a ledger board, I would be worried about water possibly penetrating and getting behind the decorative masonry.

Question 3: What is the most appropriate way to prevent water from getting behind my ledger board or the masonry?

Here is a link to my previous question for a quick diagram of the current plan:

What is a good strategy to support this deck?

I am feeling a bit overwhelmed and my father in law thinks I am insane for even considering calling the local code guy (he has had some bad experiences with this guy in the past over a septic system and he is convinced the guy is a sadistic monster who likes for people to spend absurd amounts of money on frivolous things).  If I can't find a clear cut answer then I will probably just hire somebody to do this because the aggravation this is causing me is not worth it.

EDIT

On request here is what the back of the house looks like, to the right not in view is the garage.  This is not in a seismically active area.


texts: THHN through EMT - then convert to Romex?

texts:
I want to wire outlets and light in my unfinished attic. There is a light switch at the bottom of the stairs, cable (I think THHN?) that runs through EMT through the wall and comes out upstairs and then connects to the light.

Since the attic will eventually be finished, I don't want to add any more conduit (and will probably get rid of the EMT that is exposed upstairs). How do I convert the THHN to Romex? I'm confused about what to connect to what.

Also, I'm trying to wire a three way switch (one switch at the bottom and one at the top of the stairs). Is this going to be possible with the current wiring that's in the EMT or do I need to switch it out for something else?


texts: What's the best place to get a single steel I-beam?

texts:
I am knocking down a structural wall in my house and replacing it with a steel I-beam. Where would I get that kind of thing? I am not even sure what to google. The beam is going to be about 20' long and probably 8" thick. I don't have the tools to cut something that heavy or a a vehicle to transport it so cutting it and delivering it will have to be hired out.
Would a "metal yard" do that? "Steel supplier"?

I see a few places that do metal-working but that seems to be more for finish or non-structural stuff.

I am in Boulder, CO if that helps at all.


texts: Can you run a vent in a right angle under the slab?

texts:
This is in the basement. I am trying to avoid messing up with the toilet drain plumbing as I am not sure how good I am with the plumbing and this is the bottom of the stack. This is the reason why below I am trying to reuse the bottom end of the grey pipe (the horizontal)
I want to relocate the vertical grey pipe (6) which apparently is a vent for the toilet (3) I am not sure if the toilet in that position needs a vent by its own. The grey pipe used to be drain for a sink that is not there anymore
The toilet drain connects to the bottom of the soil stack or maybe slightly above it and it is under 2ft away from it)
pipe 6 can move to position 4 (green pipe) or position 5 (orange pipe). They are all 1.5" (OD) copper
the soil stack is 3" copper
As far as I can see I have two options:
-(1)cut the grey pipe near the toilet drain and use a 90 elbow to reach 5 or used a 45 to reach 4
-(2)cut the grey pipe near where it enters the slab and connect using whatever fittings I need connect to the shower drain (wet vent?)

PS: For those following my saga (there is previous posts on this), I learned about these details this evening


texts:
In 2001, some electricians added two circuits to my house in California. I took a close look at their wiring and had some questions.

At the Service Panel, there are two 20-amp circuit breakers on the left side of the panel. Both breakers are connected to the same 12/3 Romex cable, with the red wire attached to one breaker and a black wire attached to a second breaker. The two breakers are not tied together.

The 12/3 cable feeds into the a junction box in the crawlspace where it connects to two 12/2 Romex cables. The red wire on the 12/3 cable attaches to a black wire on one 12/2 cable which provides power to my living room, and the black wire is connected to the black wire on a second 12/2 cable which provides power to a bedroom. Thus, the two 12/2 share a neutral.

This wiring configuration is confusing. Is this a "Shared neutral" situation? I am pretty sure that this was inspected in 2001, but is this configuration allowed by modern code? Was this allowed in 2001? What are the hazards of this sort of configuration? Does this present a hazard to the receptacles in the living room and bedroom?


texts: twice in the last week all of the light bulbs in my house (those that were turned on) burned out at the same time.  What would cause this and is my house safe to stay in.


texts: Removal of a 2x4 with roof truss built on top

texts:
I am remodeling my bathroom and I have run into a problem removing some of the framing where a shower used to be. There is a 2x4 spanning the 5 1/2 foot width of the bathroom and it has been built into the top plate of the exterior wall and a roof truss sits on top of it. My question is can I get away with cutting it flush with the wall or should I just live with it and tile over it.

This 2x4 in question was a part of a wall that separated shower from vanity/bathroom. This shows the bathroom at a full view then a sketch of it. The walls are both load bearing. I have already removed one just like this on the far side near the toilet. All these walls that have been removed run parallel to the ceiling joists. Also there is an image of a spot where I removed a wall that created a shower surround and shows how the 2x4 was laid into the top plate of the wall.


texts: Hose left on outside faucet over winter with no nozzle, should I replace the faucet before turning it on?

texts:
We recently bought a house in which I think the hose was hooked up over the winter. It didn't have a nozzle on the end of it, so there wasn't any pressure in the hose.

The faucet is a Woodford model 17.

I haven't turned it on yet, and i'd have to cut into the basement ceiling to look at the stem to see if it's burst.

Should I be worried about turning it on give there was no nozzle attached over the winter?

(I'm located in the midwest. Which equals very cold winters.)


texts: Assemble and dissemble tools for vanity table

texts:
I am planning on building my girlfriend a vanity desk where she can apply her special make-up and all that lady stuff she enjoys as my anniversary gift. I have a concept in mind but one thing I know I want is for the legs, table, drawers and mirror to assemble and dissemble easily. The whole desk will be made out of wood because she loves wood.

My question is what are the nails or screws that make this possible. Just so I know so when I walk into home depot I will know what to look for.


texts: Do I need a pump for my sprinkler zones that are minus 70 feet elevation?

texts:
I have a water tank on a hill and some lawns to water at the bottom of the hill.

The pipe that connects those two is a 2.5" pipe (yes, really) and when I attach a pressure gauge at the bottom of this 2.5" pipe I see a pressure of about 35 PSI, but when I connect the water tank, the head will be another 10 feet higher (it's a 10 foot tall tank) so ... figure 40 PSI.

I think my flow rate in GPM is extremely high.  I tried some calculators online but am not sure if I am getting it right but it appears that I have hundreds and hundreds of GPM.  And again, the pressure is 35-40 PSI.

It would be really nice to not have to purchase, install, and maintain a pump for this application, and it seems like I would not need one ... but may I sanity check:

If I connect a sprinkler zone at the bottom, feeding in 35-40 PSI at (god knows what huge GPM) and that sprinkler zone is maybe 200 ft. of 3/4" PVC and say 4 impact sprinkler heads that are designed to run at 30 PSI ... good to go ?

I lose 1-2 PSI on the 200 ft. of 3/4 PVC run ... do I lose any PSI on each of the impact heads (they are in a series) ?

Am I missing something here ?


texts: Can I run 2x's 200 amp services off of my 200 amp meter?

texts: I have a 200 amp service in my house from the pole that is live. My polebarn is about 150 ft. Away from the pole and is not live. I have another 200 amp service for my polebarn, and I have the extra slots under my meter to hook another service up there. I know I'll need at least 150ft of 1/0 aluminum direct burial as well. Or should I scrap the other 200 amp box (buddy gave it to me) get a 100 amp box, and run it as a sub service from the house?


texts: Looking to power my dust collector in a way where with using a light switch in one position it is running constantly and the other position power is running through a power foot pedal to activate the outlet. but I am looking to keep the Dust collector plugged into the same outlet all the time.


texts: How do I remove this shower sliding door?

texts:
I'm trying to remove the sliding doors of my shower to clean up the rails and also replace a broken "holder" (sorry I don't know the exact name of that part).

Do you have an idea how to remove a shower door using that hanging system ?


texts:
My line from my exterior AC unit is dripping at the furnace. The dripping over time has caused rusting and we've had to replace the control board under it. It appears the root cause of the problem wasn't fixed. The pipe drips when the AC is running. I have re-insulated it (before it looked like it had poor insulation) and it is still dripping. Is there anything else I can do to fix it? Is there a proper gasket to put on the connection of the pipe to the side of the furnace that I need?

I've checked the condensate drain line and it appears it's working. I opened the furnace and there is some standing water in the pan but nothing high enough to reach this line where the water is coming out. The metal pipe on the right is the condensate drain line, and the two pipes above to the left are the lines to the AC. The larger line is dripping water.


texts: Will preformed concrete piers make a sufficient shed foundation in a seismically active region?

texts: I'm building a 10' by 16' shed/workshop, and I'd like to use preformed concrete pier blocks. Is this a sufficient foundation for such a structure in a seismically active region like the Pacific Northwest?


texts: i have old (late 1980's) recessed lighting. i cannot figure out how to remove the can. there are no springs,ears or anything i can see inside the can. the bulb holder is secured by 2 spring clips that fit into slots at the top of the can. the cover is white plastic that fits into notches in the can and screws to lock in place. i have removed the plastic cover and removed the bulb holder and felt around the top of the can for any type of release pin. it appears that the can is pushed into the ceiling and then spring clip secure it to the drywall.


texts: How can I add a window to my front door?

texts: I have a traditional six panel wood door that I would like to add a window to. How can I remove the wood sections to install a glass panel? Thank you!


texts: Gfi that has 12 2 gauge 20 amp, can i tie a 14 2 gauge in the load terminal for an outlet ans light in my shed

texts: I have a gfi with 12 2 20 amp wire, and want to run power to my shed can i tie in 14 2 gauge wire in the load terminal for a outlet and small light


texts: Open ground indication on tester when connecting appliances to any outlet on same circuit

texts:
We have 5 double outlets connected on one circuit. Now we noticed that if we connect outlet tester to any outlet it's indicate 'correct', but if we plug appliance to any one of outlets in the circuit, the tester starts to shoe 'open ground'. It happens with every outlet that we tested and any outlet we connected appliances to.
We checked the tester with other outlets in the house and it works fine.
We already tried to open all the outlets and tighten the wires.
Does anyone have any ideas on what's going on?
Thanks


texts: What size electrical breaker and wire do I need for a 230 volt, 40amp. cutterhead motor?

texts: I need to know what size wire and breaker I need to wire in a 230 volt 40 amp. cutterhead motor


texts: How to fix drywall bowing from exterior, blown in insulation?

texts:
Last July, we had a company come out and blow insulation into the cavities of the exterior walls...

We've seen the issue for a while, but have been ignoring it, but now I am working on one of the rooms and would like to remedy it.

Basically, house was built in 1974.  Drywall was secured (properly) around exterior edges, and only glued throughout the center studs.  Naturally,  that glue bond has deteriorated, so when the insulation was blown in, the drywall bowed.  In some cases not so much, but on longer spans, I would estimate up to 2-3 inches.

Is there anyway to resolve this without tearing out the drywall completely?

I have tried a 2x4 down the length of a few studs, secured in with 4" decking screws, but the boad ultimately just bends and follows the contour of the wall.


texts: How often and long should my fresh air intake run?

texts:
My builder installed a fresh air timer on my furnace, a 24-hour pin timer with 15-minute increments. When it's on, it runs the fan and opens the fresh air damper. The resulting air that comes from the registers is cold (it's cold outside) but not as cold as the outside air, which leads me to believe it's mixing the outside air with recirculated air from inside.

We ran it on always-on mode for a while to help with the carpet and paint fumes, but it's cold enough outside now that the constant cold air is bothersome. How often/how long/at what times should I run it during different times of the year? The settings the builder left on the timer were clearly the result of someone just haphazardly poking a few groups of pins so it ran a few hour-long intervals every day.

I've poked around on the web a bit but there's an amazing amount of jargon and conflicting advice out there.


texts: I have a light post at the driveway. They are about 2 feet by 2 feet. The rock is separating how can i repair this quickly without taking it down? Help please


texts: Do new Air conditioning units require new pads?

texts: Is a new pad required when an entire new central AC unit (inside, outside, ductwork, everything) is installed?  Does the outside unit require anything around it when it’s in the backyard?


texts: Can I install a service panel on an exterior wall?

texts: Is it within code to mount the breaker box on an exterior wall (not exterior but on a cold wall within the apartment)? The building inspector says insulation needs to put behind the box but there is old construction with 2x4 walls so no room plus box and wires are already installed.


texts: Are you supposed to put a vapor barrier on both sides of the common garage wall (wall between garage and house)?

texts:
In my garage, the wall between the house and the garage has visible studs and insulation in it.  This insulation is 50+ years old and I am going to tear it out and put in new insulation.

My question has to do with the vapor barrier.  I have always been told to put the vapor barrier on the "warm" side of the wall.  This garage, however, has the studs, so I could only put the vapor barrier on the "cold" side of the wall (the garage side- not the house side).

For a common wall like this, with studs on the garage side, what should I do?

--

Location: Missouri


texts:
I've just moved houses and set up our dryer in the new house. It seems to get much hotter than it used to: hot to touch on the top surface, and my wife said it smelled like charcoal. The two things I can think of that are different are the plug and the vent hose.

The old house had a 3-prong outlet and the new one has a 4-prong one, so we changed out the power plug. The dryer runs, but is it possible we did something wrong that would cause overheating?

The vent hose is clear of lint and so is the vent to the outside of the house, but the hose is in this shape:

   +
   +-+
     +

It seems like air would still flow OK, though. The hose is made of foil and is about 1 foot long. The vent through the wall is maybe another foot.

What could be wrong?


texts: Is it a good idea to lay a second course of shingles over an existing shingled roof?

texts:
My shingles were a little worse for wear and I had a "friend-of-a-friend-who-used-to-be-a-roofer" come take a look at it and he said I could save some money on the demolition by just laying another course of shingles over the first.

He claimed it was a common technique and they did it all the time at his job, but it sounds a little hinky to me.

Is this really commonly done? Is it a good idea? What Are there downsides?


texts: Automatic garage door opener opens when it hits the floor

texts: I have a garage door opener that has been working fine until the past month or so.  Now, during a close cycle, once it hits the floor (where normally it would stop) it will switch back into an open cycle.  It's created several 'Ack I left my garage door open' incidents until I figured it out!  Any idea what would cause this?  It's about 5 years old, installed it myself.


texts: How do I take off my top track sliding doors?

texts:
How do I take these sliding doors off? There is a post in the middle of them that prevents me lifting them up off the track and angling them out from the bottom.
Thank you in advance
p.s. they are top track only


texts: implications of small bottleneck in ductwork

texts:
I need to vent a sauna room (~200F) with an inlet duct that will open below the heater and an outlet that will open near the ceiling at the opposite side of the room.  The ducts will be small (2").  Drilling through the studs I'd like to make the holes small (.75") to preserve structural integrity.  The only air pressure here will be that provided by the temperature of the air itself, from the outside (30-90F), to the inside (~200F).

Are there any downsides to the small bottlenecks through which the air is going to flow?  I'd think the air would just accelerate through the bottleneck and other than that everything else would be the same.  Do I need to drill bigger holes?

Thanks


texts: How to add a surge protector on 240 circuit at pool sub panel - neutral or ground connection?

texts:
Trying to add a surge protector at a sub panel by pool. The 240 circuit runs from the main load panel on side of house to sub panel by pool - red, black and green only - to a disconnect and the pump. The surge protector (Intermatic PS3000) has two black and one white wire only. No other wires. I was planning to connect the two black wires to the red and the black from the 240 circuit at the disconnect, but am stumped with where to attach the third wire.

I am adding a whole house surge protector, but also one at the pump for extra protection because the variable speed pump has an on board electronic unit that is more sensitive and according to many reviews, can be troublesome. Kind of like adding a surge protector next to electronics inside.

I understand that at the main load center the white/neutral would go to the ground/neutral bus bar, but that according to code, at a sub panel, it should go to a neutral bus that is isolated from the ground bus. Otherwise, as I understand it, you can end up with neutral current on the ground wire.

At the sub panel, the ground bar is bonded to the rebar in the pool. Intermatic says they get this question all the time and that they tell everyone to connect the white wire to the ground at the sub panel and tape it green. Intermatic tech support even says they are trying to get the color of the wire changed to green by production. Two local electricians have said this is fine also, even though it might not be 100% code. I am asking here because I believe the advice is very considered and expert, and I want to be safe and follow code.

There is also a 110 circuit running from the main load center directly to the sub panel. This  circuit has a neutral on it. A ‘professional’ pool installer which sets up pumps routinely said that he regularly grabs neutrals from other circuits and that it would be fine to connect the white wire from the surge protector to the neutral on the 110 circuit. This makes me a little nervous as it seems like I would be mixing a 110 circuit with a 240 circuit.

I would really appreciate any thoughts on this. Thank you.


texts: How do I repair or replace a fascia gutter end caps?

texts:
I have a fascia gutter with no endcap at all over a window. When it rains, water pours down over the Window which seems bad...

What I'm struggling with is locating an end cap to fit the gutter. Neither Home Depot nor Lowes sell one large enough. Are they normally handmade out of sheet metal, or am I just looking in the wrong places?


texts: Is High Friction Aggregate a type of stone or treatment applied to a stone?

texts:
I am doing some research about decorative stones and came across high friction aggregate.  I am a bit confused and here are my two questions:

Is High Friction Aggregate a separate type of stone OR is it a treatment applied to stones?
If it is a type of treatment, why would someone want to use it on granite/veneer/quartzite stones? I ask because the treatment is used to make skid resistant surfaces.


texts: Why does dryer lint grill have wiring coming in?

texts:
I had to removey dryer's plastic lint grid to reach for something that got behind and noticed it has wires coming in (lower right).

What is the reason this seemingly simple piece of plastic has wires coming in?


texts: Single cylinder set-up for geothermal heating and hot-water

texts:
I am looking to install a geothermal heating system to provide hot water and heating in a small home. I am aware that constant cycling of the geothermal heat pump is not desirable, so it is usual to use a buffer vessel to store residual heat for the heating loop. The problem is that we are very constrained on space. We also intend to use the heat pump to provide hot water.

I have found some hot water cylinders that have dual heat exchangers. These are often used when you have multiple heat sources, but I was thinking that there is no reason i could use one of the exchangers as a sink instead of a source, and use it to heat the underfloor heating loop. Then the hot water itself is used as the buffer to reduce cycling.

The hot water cylinder thermostat that would be used to control the geothermal heat pump, aiming to keep the hot water at a sufficiently high temperature. The room thermostat would control the circulation pump on the underfloor heating loop.

Please see the attached diagram (I have ignored expansion vessels, etc, for simplification):

Logically, this seems like a sound solution to me: it avoids the need for a dedicated buffer tank, reduces the cycling of the geothermal pump, and eliminates the need for complicated valve controllers to efficiently balance the distribution of heat between hot water and heating.

Am I missing anything obvious? What are the caveats to a solution like this? Any advice appreciated.


texts: Fill gap between a counter and a stainless steam table

texts:
I need to fill gap between a composite counter  that is surrounding a stainless steam table tub. The gap is 1/4" to 3/8", the steam table gets hot, 400 degree silicone has not worked. It shrinks and comes loose after a short time period.
Whatever is used must be ready for service after a 12 hour application period. The material must be able to be cleaned off of the counter and stainless surfaces after the gap is filled and it must be white.
Is Acrylic grout a possibility?


texts: Move or remove a downspout inside brick wall

texts:
I just moved into 1912 townhouse in DC. It has cast iron drain lines for the gutter downspouts. One of the lines is clogged, but I assume it eventually connects to the sewer. At some point in the house's history an addition was put on and this line (which was previously on the back of the house) appears to have been bent such that it now protrudes out of the side of the house. The exterior brick wall of the addition was constructed around the pipe.

I'd like to remove the pipe because it looks awful and it feels like the area is lacking support due to missing bricks.

How do I even approach solving this? Do I call a plumber? A mason? A structural engineer?


texts: Can I install a switch upstream of my service panel for regular shuttoff duty?

texts:
I lived in Europe where it is common to have on/off switches on all electrical wall outlets. I asked my electical parts store if I could replace the cicuit breakers in my home with switch rated (swd) breakers.

I was told that I would have to replace my entire panel as swd circuit breakers need a panel made specifically  for there use.

My reasons for wanting to turn off all power when I'm not home are - our homes are filled with appliances and devices from various world-wide sources that are not always reliable especially when some of those items may be decades old. I know these items sometimes cause fires even when connected to proper circuit protection. Our homes are sometimes invaded by critters (mice, squirrels and others) that are attracted to the insulation on wiring. They have been the cause of home fires.

Is there a basic on-off power disconnect switch that could be installed upstream from my service panel? It is not likely that I will unplug all my appliances whenever I leave my home, that would involve pulling refrigerators, washing machines, etc. out from the walls to get access. I need a system disconnect switch.


texts:
I just got a new washing machine, and am trying to figure out how to connect the drain hose to my home's 1950's plumbing. The old 1" washing machine hose ran directly from the back of the machine and was sealed to the 2" drain pipe. After doing some research, it seems that modern code dictates that the laundry drain hose have an air gap, and not be sealed to the drain pipe at all. There's also a requirement that the standpipe be 30" high, in order to prevent a leaky drain valve from emptying the machine.

My standpipe is not 30" tall, so I don't think I'll meet code without doing some plumbing re-work. In the meantime, I'm trying to figure out what my options are. The washing machine manual shows a couple of installation options, but I can't figure out what the difference between these two is:

It seems like the first picture recommends putting the washer drain hose into the 30" standpipe and leaving an air gap. The second picture looks like the exact same situation, just with a standpipe less than 30" tall - are they saying that if the standpipe isn't 30" tall, just go ahead and do the same thing anyway? Is the difference how the hose is connected to the standpipe (cable tie vs. "secured in drain opening"?).

Is hanging the drain hose from the drain hose clip a reasonable substitute to the 30" tall standpipe? So long as the drain hose rises above the water level in the washer, I don't see how the washer would be able to drain spontaneously with a leaky valve. So why the 30" requirement, if the same thing can be achieved by proper configuration of the drain hose?

Finally, the air gap itself makes me a little nervous, since if we ever have any blockage, the washing machine will drain all over the laundry room floor, rather than simply failing to drain. I know the air gap is supposed to prevent the machine fromm being siphoned, but isn't that what the downstream plumbing vent is for? The plumbing vent is sufficient to prevent the P-trap from being siphoned - even without an air gap, shouldn't it prevent the washer from being siphoned, too?


texts:
I just started pulling up shingles to reroof a 1989 house only to discover the plywood sheathing was installed without gaps.  As a result, there is a lot of 1/4 inch buckling, especially on the unsupported seams.

Can I run a circular saw on all the seams set to the depth of the plywood to add spacing?  Will the buckles ever lay flat or do I need to replace all the panels with buckling?  can I put 2x4 pieces underneath in the attic and screw through the sheathing to try to level it out?


texts: Extension cord can't plug into christmas light string?

texts:
I am setting up christmas lights. I have two shrubs which are about 6 feet apart, and I want to put an LED string set on each. I bought a two-prong outdoor extension cord to run between the shrubs.

The prongs from the extension cord do not fit into the end of the LED string. However the LED prongs can plug into the other side of the extension cord without issue.

Do you need some sort of converter to allow the prongs of the extension cord to go into the xmas light string set?

Thanks

This is the extension cord prong end:

This is the LED string light end:

The packaging of the extension cord says it is polarized.


texts:
Installing new bathroom vent. Adding a second switch to this existing light switch. Can I just piggyback off the existing hot wire, just like the light switch?  I don't need to do anything with the white wire right?

Also, do I need to replace the housing with a double,  or can I just add a single right next to it and run the wire through the knockout on the side?

[![junction box][1]][1]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_FzlcEZYP_POU9jX3Vnck8yWEk/view?usp=docslist_api

UPDATE:
I'm confused. If I attach the white wire from the fan the the three white wires, the fan comes on and stays on. Switch doesn't affect it.

If I attach it to the switch, then the fan won't turn on at all.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_FzlcEZYP_PYmhvR2VvaGlEOEU/view?usp=docslist_api

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_FzlcEZYP_Pdm9UOWVrMXNuVnc/view?usp=docslist_api


texts:
We just bought a portable dishwasher, and the sink has a single handle faucet with a sprayer (side spray.) (This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTlmbpje7Js shows what the connection looks like.  The dishwasher connects to the end of the faucet much like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fszaXdH5K64)

The instructions for the dishwasher (and other brands) say to remove the side spray because the hose isn't designed for the constant pressure like when used with the dishwasher and is likely to leak.  That sounds plausible, but isn't the diverter the thing taking the pressure?  And if that's the case, how does removing the side spray prevent problems?

EDIT: Added details of the hose connection.


texts: I replaced the anode rod on my water heater, when I looked down after draining, I could see pieces of the old rod lying in the bottom of the tank. The old rod clearly had bits broken off from the core rod. Perhaps using the impact gun even shook some loose. Is this debris in the bottom of the tank detrimental now? From a corrosion standpoint?


texts: What plan makes most sense for this bathroom rough in?

texts: I'm trying to figure out the best way to layout this rough in. I'm ok with the location of the toilet and shower. However the sink rough in is throwing me a bit. The pipe running down from the ceiling sticks out on the way down. How would I overcome this issue? I believe I would have to dig up the concrete and move it so it's more vertical. Otherwise it doesn't seem like there's much room from the toilet to finished wall.


texts:
I live on 4th floor of a seven-storey building. It's been a month since I noticed these strange things growing on my ceiling. It looks like mud when observed closely.

At first I cleared it with brush which can be seen in the picture as light stains. But it grew again. The darker one is how it looks like now.

The other side of the wall from which this thing grows is the bathroom. Above the bathroom there is a small compartment for storing things. The door of the compartment can be seen in the picture.

I've never seen anything like this. What is this thing? And how can I get rid of it? As mentioned above clearing with a brush doesn't help.


texts: Automatic sprinkler valve will not shut off

texts: I have a 3/4 inch inline automatic sprinkler valve that will not shut off, whether it is turned on electrically or by unscrewing the solenoid.  It drives a drip line with about 15 heads, so the flow rate is rather low.  If I close the main shutoff valve to the system and reopen it or open a drain valve downstream so the flow increases dramatically it closes fine, so it appears to depend on the downstream pressure being high.  Can anyone help with the cause and fix?  Normally I would just replace the valve as they are not expensive enough to fight with, but I am concerned about getting a new one in.  I have unions both sides of the valve, but the pipes seem fixed in the ground.  I would have to find one the same length and get the unions to mate without pulling or pushing the pipe.


texts: How can I build a long lasting low maintenance fence?

texts:
I'm needing to replace a blown down fence, and have been seeking advice and quotes from fencing contractors. There seem to be two conflicting schools of thought.

One contractor advises that using pressure treated timber posts concreted into the ground, along with a continuous strip of feather-boarded fence (again using pressure treated timber) will result in a longer lasting fence. He specifically said that pressure treated timber will last longer than concrete posts, which are likely to crack over time due to frost. He also said that using pressure treated timber boards will mean the fence doesn't need to be treated in any way after installation.

Another contractor pooh-poohed that, and said concrete posts with gravel board and feather-board panels is the way to go. He said that pressure treated timber is a gimmick for applications where the timber is not in direct contact with the ground, and that it would need to be treated periodically.

To summarise: both options involve concreting thee posts into the ground, but the first option uses timber posts, and the second concrete.

Which route should I take for a long-lasting, low-maintenance fence?  Looks are not especially important, and security is not really an issue. I'm prepared to pay more if it will last well.


texts: Alternative to toggle bolt for toilet roll holder?

texts:
My toilet roll holder comes off the wall every 6-12 months. Regular plastic anchors aren't helping much.
I saw that toggle bolts are a great option, but I only have about 1.5" of depth to work with, and can't find any toggle bolts shorter than 2".
Aside from the asking the hardware store to cut them down for me, are there any recommendations for this scenario please?


texts: How do I repair this tile without removing it

texts: How do I repair this bathroom tile without removing it. I have do not have any extra tiles to use.


texts: Does removing an LED bulbs from fixture decrease energy usage?

texts:
Noob question alert. Electrics have always been my weakness.

If you have a 6 bulb ceiling light, with 6 LED bulbs each with 5w, and you remove 3 of them, does this half the energy usage when the light is being used?

I guess this can also be re worded to ask whether, if you remove the LED bulb from a light fitting and it is switched on, does it use any electricty?

Thanks

Edit to add some background:
We are renovating our house and we have a room with 6 bulb ceiling light. It's far to bring for the replaced LED bulbs. We will replace the fixture in the future and my thoughts were, if removing bulbs still uses as much electricty, then I will change the fixture sooner. If it uses electricity relativing to only bulbs attached (ie no "Dripping electricty", good ref) then changing the fixture is not a priority.


texts:
I have just started to paint my kitchen ceiling and the first white coat really showed up some surface damage we hadn't noticed before.

It looks like the previous occupiers scuffed their fridge across it whilst getting it out.

The scuffs are around 5-10mm deep and in some places are as wide as 30-40cm squared.

Is there anything i can do to make it look better without hiring a plasterer to re-skim the ceiling for us?

I am assuming that the ceiling is plaster board of some kind.

The damage is similar to the image below, but not as deep, and it has been painted and over.


texts: Clear densely-packed snow from driveway?

texts: I'm experiencing my first real winter. Our house has an asphalt driveway about 100' long. I've been shoveling it when the snow gets too deep, but cars going in and out have left 2–3" of densely-packed snow that is very difficult to get up. I got out my metal garden shovel and used that a bit, but it's slow going and is probably damaging the driveway. Is there a better way?


texts: How would I replace this light bulb in the pic

texts:
enter image description here

How would I replace this recessed light with clips?


texts: Do I need to patch the hole in my bathroom drywall behind the vanity?

texts:
I have a simple goal: I want to install a new vanity in my bathroom (in the United States, California specifically).

However, after extracting the prior vanity, I ended up having to cut some of the floor molding to accommodate for the size of the new vanity. Unfortunately, when I removed the piece of molding that I cut, I discovered it was hiding a 15cm wide, 4cm tall hole at the base of the drywall.

When I install the vanity, it will completely cover this hole. Assuming I mount the vanity right against the wall and caulk the joints, do I need to do any drywall repair to this hole or would I encounter any problems leaving it as-is?


texts: Old pivot rod assembly, unsure how to remove

texts:
I unscrewed the nut holding on the pivot rod assembly under my bathroom sink and noticed what you see in the picture. It appears that the rod is encased in some kind of cork substance.
I am not sure if it can be replaced. Is it possible that the rod can be moved forward so I can reattach it to the stopper. I'm doing all of this because it rusted through and won't attach to the stopper as of now.
Hesitant to move forward without some guidance.


texts: How do I make a table drawer child-proof?

texts:
I want to build a drawer into a table that is held shut by an unseen lock (probably magnetic).

The drawer front would have two small holes in it.

The handle for the drawer would fit into the two holes, when inserted the handle effectively releases the lock allowing you to open the drawer by pulling on the handle just inserted.

Any ideas?


texts: Cheapest way to heat and cool a converted garage?

texts:
I'm converting my two car garage into a home theater and was seeking some advice on the cheapest way to heat, cool, and dehumidify the room. Here are some details:

Garage was once a model home office so the walls, ceiling, and garage door are insulated.
Dimensions are about 20' x 20' x 10'.
The garage has no windows.
The garage has attic access.
I live in Austin, Texas. Temperatures range from triple digits down to occasional freezing.

I'm am most concerned about the cooling and dehumidification. I can use an electric heater if need be to warm the garage during the winter. Since I will have sensitive home theater equipment in the garage, it will be important that the garage remain within a normal room temperature and humidity level. I'm trying to keep the project within $1500 but I'm afraid that may be out of reach...

I have central air and heating in a small 2200 sqft home.


texts: Do I need a header when non bearing wall

texts:
I've opened up a lath and plaster of a non bearing wall in my home built in 1924 (had a structural engineer look at it to confirm) but only partially - 5" under the molding (10" height). This molding I would like to keep. Also, due to electrical wires/outlets that are still needed, I would like to keep the wall as a U shape opening with lateral widths of less than 12" (as slim as possible without becoming an eye sore). Studs are 2"x4" at 12" on center.

The structural engineer said that I don't need a header to support the teeth studs that will result from the opening. Is that true ? The opening is rather large, over 10'. To be safe, should I still put a header? If so, what would be the minimum height I would need.

Edit: I remembered I had a photo taken while taking the plaster and lath down.


texts: Do I need a ground for a new 240 volt 20 amp circuit?

texts:
I ran a new 240 volt circuit to operate some motorized equipment. The equipment has a 3 prong grounded 240 volt plug. My source however doesn't have a grounding strip. Would it be better to not connect the ground wire to anything on both ends.

My source is a dry transformer with a neutral but the neutral is not grounded. The building is a mower/ maintenance shed for a golf course built in the early 60's. The source to the building from the utility is 277y/480 volts mostly to run the irrigation pump. I think the building was added as an afterthought, therefore the dry transformer was added to provide power for outlets in the building. Two 480 legs and 1 supposed neutral provide power to the high side of the dry transformer. When I arrived on the scene, I discovered that the neutral is not used and is just floating. The secondary coils were paralleled to provide 120 volts only to the entire building. I since then have successfully split the coils and now have 120/240 to the whole building. So in answer to the question on grounding, I don't know if the main breaker at the meter has a good ground for the entire building or not because it is locked up(key issue?). At any rate, like I said the neutral on the secondary side of the dry transformer is not grounded and all individual 120 circuits going out from this panel have a hot leg and neutral only -no ground wires.


texts: Is there a wireless way to cut off the HVAC y wire from my generator transfer switch?

texts:
I recently had a Generac Synergy generator installed, which went smoothly, however there was no good way to get the Y wire from my thermostat to the transfer switch and back in order to allow the transfer switch to cut the y wire signal.

It seems like this should be able to be done wireless as 24v DC is available in both the transfer switch and at the thermostat with some kind of a wireless relay, but I have had trouble identifying a suitable product, so I'm not sure if there may be some problem with my thought process.

Is there a good way to have a wireless transmitter in my transfer switch which can wireless cause a 24v relay to cut power on the y line either at my thermostat or at my AC unit?  If not, what are the problems such a system would encounter that prevent it from being reliable.


texts: What is the difference between different rated RCCBs except for the price?

texts:
Say there's a need to install a 25A30ma Residual Current Circuit Breaker (i.e. ABB FH202 AC-25/0,03). It is going to be followed by a normal circuit breaker, to protect the wiring and the RCCB (16A). Specified RCCB is not in stock, however, there are 32A30ma and 40A30ma variations available of the same brand (latter being a bit cheaper).

Can I take and install higher-rated circuit breaker (40A30ma) instead of required 25A30ma? And if so - what is the guiding principle of when to use smaller-rated RCCBs except for the price?

Note: the question is about RCCBs, not the RCBOs


texts: How to get a new tumbler pattern to re-key existing locks?

texts:
I suspect I don't know what terminology is correct which is why I can't find any information on this via google.
Say I have standard door locks (Schlage or Kwikset) that are fairly new and I have deadbolts and doorknobs that are all set to the same pattern (so one key will open two doors).
Now, say I need to get a new master key or key pattern or tumbler pattern or whatever it's called because my key was stolen or a copy was made and now I don't trust that my locks are secure.
My problem might be that I don't have another factory-cut master key (or pattern) that I can use to have the locks re-keyed to and to cut blank keys to.
How would I go about getting a new key that I could get the locks all re-keyed to? Do I have to buy a new lock-set to install or use to re-key the existing locks?
If anyone thinks they could improve the vocabulary in this post, that'd be awesome, because I don't know what words I'm looking for, even after looking through lockwiki.
Summary

The key I have is compromised
The locks I have, I'd like to keep
I don't have a new key to re-key the locks to

How do I get a new key that doesn't match any of the existing locks? And can I then re-key the locks to that key?


texts: Can a marginal transformer be responsible for random standing pilot light cutoff?

texts:
I have an old (late-50s era) forced-air furnace system with a standing pilot. Over the past few years it's started randomly shutting off (an audible click occurs as though the thermocouple has cooled and tripped it). I've replaced the thermocouple and even the entire pilot/thermocouple assembly and had an HVAC-employed neighbor verify my work.
It doesn't coincide with windy days and wasn't a problem 4-5 years ago, so it's unlikely to be some kind of backdraft issue with the vent.
I'm now suspecting the (ancient) control system's transformer is on its last legs. My reasoning for this is because the Nest thermostat (1st generation) now and then reports it's lost power then randomly comes back on. This doesn't seem to coincide with the pilot shutoff and is much rarer, but I'm thinking because the Nest has got a very small power draw and I'm assuming holding open the safety valve is by far the larger draw, that's usually the first to trip.
Is this a reasonable theory? Should I look into replacing the control system?
[Removed alternate limit switch suspicions and pic.]


texts: Do I need an electrician to restore the power to my bedroom on the other side of a wall I drilled into?

texts:
How can power lost after drilling into
stud be restored? Is it costly?


texts:
I plan on building a stone fire pit on top of my paver patio. I also plan on inserting a fire ring and having a snuffer lip to put the fire out but also keep the rain out. I will line the bottom with lava or granite rock and place a layer of paver base sand on top of that. Questions before I get started;

Is it necessary to use adhesive in-between each row of blocks?
If it does rain and the snuffer lid is not in place, will there be a problem of ashes running out all over the pavers... what is the solution?

Thanks


texts:
I have been looking for a specific type of light switch for my home inspired from an architecture tour I took many years ago in France at Villa Cavrois.

Unfortunately, it seems this is an almost impossible to find product in the US and widely and cheaply available in the UK.

My questions are the following:

Is it possible and what would it entail to buy a UK light switch to use in the US home? I care about design but also about safety.
here is the switch in question: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-10ax-1-gang-2-way-toggle-switch-polished-chrome-with-colour-matched-inserts/63045
Is there a way to keep some of the design features and just match it up to US core parts instead with some DYI mix and match?
Do you guys know any place that would have a US version that would not cost $125  (!!!) a piece, like this one, which is actually the exact one I wanted, with a rectangular plate:


texts: How to get new wire into old box in plaster wall?

texts:
I'm rewiring my house, which was built in 1921.  I need to bring new cable to a triple-wide switch box (see photos).  I cannot push the old knob & tube wire out through the knockouts--it must be stapled near the box.  There is an unused knockout, but I haven't been able to knock it out from within the box.  I removed the mounting screws, but it is set firmly in the plaster, so I can't just slide the box out.
 Note the screws coming in from the top.  Perhaps another metal plate above holds there together.

Is there a trick to pushing the old cables out, or removing the knockout from inside the box?  Maybe drill a hole in the knockout and then pull it inward?  Is there any way less destructive than cutting all around the box to remove it?


texts: stats on *total* cost of high-efficiency boiler?

texts:
Not trying to start a subjective debate here, just looking for some objective statistics.
I get that high-efficiency boilers are much more efficient, and will save big bucks over their lifetime in terms of fuel saved.  I get that they're more complicated and cost more.  (I get that the manufacturers can also charge more based on the expected fuel savings.)
But everybody I know who has one is paying through the nose for maintenance.  It seems (perhaps this is a biased opinion) that the things are always breaking down, and when they do the replacement parts are always (a) hideously expensive and (b) on backorder.
Is there any data on this?  I'm curious if anyone has done any studies on the total cost of ownership of a high-efficiency boiler, factoring in not only the initial cost and the fuel saved, but also a realistic assessment of the actual maintenance costs.


texts: Why won't my circular saw blade tighten on the spindle?

texts: The blade on my Craftsman circular saw will not tighten down and consequently slips on the spindle.  I've tried packing the bolt with a washer and it didn't help.  Can't find anything online so this may not be a typical problem. Could it be as simple as replacing the spring washer?  Any feedback would be appreciated.


texts: Can I use THHN/THWN-2 within a lamp post?

texts:
Foreword: I've been using UF wire for about 10 years now, and I've really grown to hate it. It's hard to work with, hard to strip, and hard to pull through conduit. I prefer all my underground wire to go through conduit, because WHEN something happens (and it will ... I've had lightning fry underground wires thrice in 10 years), it's much easier to replace when you don't have to dig it up again.

With that said, I'm starting a new project of lining my driveway with lamp posts. Due to voltage drop (600+ feet), I need 6 AWG wire. 6 AWG UF is HUGE and would require ENORMOUS conduit. I've never used THWN before, but after much research, it looks far easier to work with that UF. I've decide to go with THWN, instead.

The wire I'm getting is rated THHN/THWN-2/MTW/AWN, so it's suitable for dry AND wet locations to 90ºC. I know, obviously, that it isn't suitable for direct burial and MUST be in conduit from the breaker box to the lamp post. However, this is where things become less clear. I've looked through the Code thoroughly, and I haven't found any guidance that clearly applies to what happens once the wire enters the lamp post. I'll run conduit through the ground and up INTO the lamp post. This gets the THWN wire above grade. However, once I get into the lamp post, what then? Can I simply run the THWN up through the lamp post and join it to the conductors for the light fixture within the lamp post body? Must the light fixture wires be joined to the THWN in a junction box? Must I run UF wire through the lamp post from a junction with the THWN to a junction with the light fixture wires?

Any guidance on this would be appreciated. I'd hate to find out after pouring the concrete and mounting the lamp post that it doesn't pass the inspection.


texts: I have a small appliance with a 110vac transformer that broke off where I cannot reconnect it.  Can I replace that 110vac transformer with a 120vac and does it matter which side the wires go on?  Can I miswire?


texts: Outdoor disconnect for central air plus mini-split

texts:
We are arranging with an HVAC pro to replace our central AC compressor and add a separate mini-split system. We will have two compressors in close proximity on the side of the house where we presently have one. I'm trying to sort out what the outdoor electrical supply should look like.
The new units list the following requirements:

Central Air: Rheem RA1642AJ1NB calls for 208-1-60 supply, 25.0A min amperage, 40A max protection (HACR breaker or fuse)
Mini-split: Fujitsu AOU12RLFW1. The docs online are a bit fuzzy. An installation manual for (almost) the same PN calls for 208-1-60 supply, 13.4A min amperage, 15A max protection (HACR breaker or fuse). However, my HVAC pro said to provide 20A fused disconnect)

Presently I have a 30A 240VAC fuseable pullout switch (Eaton DPF221R) fed by a 30A breaker in my service panel. My contractor quoted $250 to replace the outside disconnect. Separately, he requested a 240V 20A supply for the mini-split.
Based on answers so far I’m leaning towards a #6 home run on a 2-pole 50A breaker to the existing interior junction box. From there I would run in conduit to two outdoor disconnects: the existing 30A fused disconnect (with 20A fuses) for the mini split and a new 60A fused disconnect with gfci outlet (and 40A fuses) for the central air.
The existing disconnect is in good order but the exposed UF will need to be corrected.


texts: Should I temporarily cover my exposed soffit during a rain storm?

texts: We're currently getting our Soffits replaced by a contractor. Unfortunately he has not yet finished the job and they are quite exposed. I'm especially worried about mold growing underneath since I will rain tonight. First, should I be worried and second what can I do to prevent it?


texts: What can I do to make my downstairs layout better?

texts:
Hi. Looking to modify our downstairs since the house isn't selling and it doesn't work in its current state. We've had a structural engineer out so load bearing walls have been identified. What would your suggestions be? Things being considered :

Move kitchen into lounge and rejig dining room and current kitchen to make a utility room between bathroom and rest of downstairs

Knocking through dining room and kitchen to make a big kitchen diner

Adding an extension to square off the house (last resort as have two kids under 2.5).

Any thoughts or other suggestions? Any feedback on how tricky it is to change kitchen to front of house? Boiler is in the bathroom and no upstairs loo if that is useful info.

Thanks for any help.


texts: Hello I am renovating my laundry room. I have replumbed the laundry box to the best of my ability and knowledge. I am still having issues with overflow, when I stop the washer before overflow I hear gurgling by the vent pipe. It is plumbed with 2 inch pvc, with an offset to maneuver around the sill, vertical to horizontal transition under the subfloor is a wye with a cleanout. I used a laser level to measure and set the slope of both horizontal runs. I believe I calculated the offset properly. Not sure what’s causing this issue, thanks in advance for any help


texts: How to run data cable in an attic with blown fiberglass insulation

texts:
I was wanting to rerun some Ethernet cable in my home. There is no Ethernet running to my living room which I want for my smart TV. For the time being, I have to run a cable from my office room to my TV and it just lays on the floor.

I also want to move some cables because I want to take an existing cable from my master bedroom, and run it to the living room. This cable goes outside to the DMARC. These walls are adjacent so it would just be a matter of pulling the cable up and dropping it down the correct wall. Doing this would allow my router to be in a more central location of the home.

However, I have one problem. I only have an attic, and it looks like this...

How on Earth do I go about rerunning cable through that mess? Do I just try to disturb the least amount of insulation? Do I make paths along where I need to go and then put the insulation back once I'm done? This almost seems like more work than it's worth, but it's something I really want to do.


texts: With modern Bidet Seats are becoming more common, especially models that offer an electrical plug-in option to heat and dispense water, does the Bidet Seats need to be plugged to a GFCI electrical receptacle.  Similarly, Do electrical receptacle under bathroom' s sink / vanity or light fixture' s switches near water source / faucet, need to be tied to a GFCI electrical receptacle or a GFCI circuit breaker, for safety


texts: How do I hang shelves on poor quality brick/concrete walls?

texts:
I'm trying to install some shelves in my apartment (brick/concrete) but when I drill holes the walls almost seem like they're made of sand. I'm not able to securely fix the screws (I'm using wall plugs) and the shelves appear like they're going to fall down at any minute.

Is there anything I can do about it? I was wondering if I could use some material inside the holes after I drill them (and before putting the wall plugs) so I can make the screws stay firm in their place.

Any tips?


texts: How large an area is needed to make a paint sprayer worth it?

texts:
Clearly a paint sprayer cannot be beaten on a very large wall in an empty room when the ceiling is being painted the same as the wall.

Likewise in small rooms with carpets and furniture plus lots of windows the time take to mask everything is a lot greater than the time to paint with a paint brush (or roller).

I have never used a paint sprayer, what size area do I need to make it worthwhile?


texts: What could cause a toilet to bubble occasionally, even if sewer line is clear?

texts:
I've had a problem for the last month with my toilet emitting air bubbles when I shower. I've had sewer blockage before due to tree roots, so I thought this might be the cause. I had the line snaked out to the street and then back through the house, but it still didn't seem to help. We then tried to snake through the actual toilet bowl, and that helped a bit, but the plumber said that it may be mineral deposits and that I would probably need a new toilet.

In the meantime, we haven't been using that toilet, but this morning it started bubbling again when I showered. I've never heard of mineral deposits in the actual toilet causing this. Has anyone else? I just want to make sure before I go to the trouble of replacing the toilet.


texts: Ground wire pass-through safety switch to sub panel?

texts:
I have an out-building 150+ feet from the main service panel with its own 240v 60 amp sub panel. It is powered via a four wire bundle going through underground conduit -- 2 x 120v feeders, 1 neutral, 1 ground. This is a sub panel in a detached building so the neutral and ground will not be bonded in the sub panel. The sub panel is on the inside of the building.
There is a Square D D222NRB non-fused 60 amp safety switch installed on the outside and that is what the underground conduit is connected to. The safety switch has two sets of two lugs for the incoming and outgoing feeders, plus a neutral bar to accommodate the in and out neutral.

There are no lugs nor any obvious spot to mount a separate grounding lug or bar for the ground, in the safety switch.
It feels wrong to not bond the ground wire to the safety switch box. I always bond the ground to the box in any metal enclosure I am connecting wire in. The lack of a ground lug and seeming complete lack of even a space to mount a ground lug is throwing me for a loop, though.
Is the ground wire intended to pass through the safety switch on its way to the sub panel?


texts: Can I go from a 3-prong outlet and connect to a 2-prong outlet and switch?

texts: I have rewired the first 2 outlet in a circuit with 14-2 wire.  However, I do NOT want to rewire the rest of the circuit because it is inside non-accessible walls.  The rest of the circuit is a front door light with switch and an upstairs outlet.  Is it okay to re-connect the new 14-2 with to old non-grounded, cloth-covered with 2 wires?


texts:
Trying to mount a 1/2" thick white board (2' tall, 8' wide) on this brick wall. The challenge is doing so with these electrical tubes in the way (they come about 1.5" off the wall). Any suggestions?

I'm sure there's some bracket or strategy that can be used, just can't seem to figure it out.

Bonus points: a removable mount of some kind!


texts: Considerations for hardwiring electronics project in wall

texts:
What things will I need to consider for hardwiring a planned electronics project into the wall?

The plan is a DIY smart thermostat. An LCD touchscreen panel will be flush with the wall. Attached to the back will be the electronics, including a miniature computer (a Raspberry Pi) and an interface board of my own design. The interface board will include a board-mounted 120V-to-DC power supply, connections for line voltage, and connections for 24VAC furnace wiring.

I imagine hiding the wiring and tucking the electronics in a 3 gang box and mounting the assembly to the box with something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749782 -- basically the LCD panel+electronics assembly will be screwed to an adapter plate that slides into slots in another adapter plate that is screwed to the box. Then the touchscreen covers the box and everything else is out of sight and out of reach.

Here are some questions I know I have:

The assembly would very easily be removed from the box (just slide it up against the force of gravity). Great for servicing wiring, but is that too easy? What if someone bumps into it and it falls out and the wiring gets yanked out and then there is 120VAC dangling within easy reach?
Am I required to enclose the high-voltage parts of the interface board? The board-mounted power supply might be a class II device, but would be a through-hole component meaning the under-side of the interface board would not be finger-friendly. But the under-side of the interface board would normally be out of finger's reach.
Do I need to ground everything?
Is the board-mounted power supply required to be a class II device?
Am I required to include a fuse in the design? Or is that a matter of judgment and engineering? For example, the electronics would have to let a lot of magic smoke out to trip the circuit breaker. Even if the circuit breaker were 1A that's 120W, an order of magnitude larger than the planned power usage. So my judgment says to include a fuse, but I don't know if it's required by code.

Does anything else jump out at you?


texts: Two white and two black wires in ceiling box

texts:
Im trying to install a replacement light and the box has 2 black, 2 white and 2 ground wires, but my fixture only has one of each.  I didn't really pay attention when i was pulling everything apart...  Anyway, the light is now on and won't turn off so I'm guessing just wiring all black to black, all white to white and all ground to ground was a bad idea.

How should this be done?

EDIT:   We used a voltage sensor and discovered that one line is always hot.  Wired it to one of the white lines and hooked up the others to the light.  We now see intermittent flickers, but it won't light up.  Wondering now if I did caused damage to the dimmer switch earlier.   Will put a regular switch in and see in the AM.

EDIT 2: Dimmer switch was bad.  Janessa's answer explained what was going on, and the two comments below are correct in saying I shouldn't be working on it.


texts: what can the county do if my shed violate zoning distance?

texts:
So, here is the issue. Me being stupid, decided to start building a 12 x 16 shed. (sits on wood foundation)

THEN I started researching what the county permits. The shed has a setback of either 5 or 10 feet (dont know my zone) if its bigger than 120 sqft, which it is. (from what I read - can be wrong i will be calling on friday)

I placed it 3 feet instead. I invested over $4,000 in it with electrical, which passed inspection from a electrical company.

the state is colorado and county is el paso in colorado springs.

YAY ME! so, what can a county do? Can they force me to take it down? if I dont?


texts: Why do insulated screwdrivers have a maximum voltage that they're rated for?

texts: I have some insulated screwdrivers and the packaging says "Protects from electric shock up to 1,000 volts". But it's not like the insulation can conduct electricity at higher voltages, right?


texts:
Sorry if this is in the wrong place.

A couple of days ago I spilled a cup of water on the ground, and some of the water landed on a surge protector I quickly unplugged it and dried it off. I have kelp it in a warm room for a couple of days.
Should I replace it, or is it safe to use it again?


texts:
I want to run a 240v pump motor fed from 2 pole gfci 20 amp breaker (4 wire).
Also would like to add 120v 20 amp receptacle using 1 leg of 240v feed.
Can this be done or do I have to run separate 120 volt circuit?


texts:
We recently moved into a new to us house. There are a couple of depressions in the asphalt driveway that I thought I should try to level with some bagged asphalt patch.
Maybe unsurprisingly, when I swept the dirt and loose debris out of one of them, I found that there was a hole straight through the asphalt and into a void in the soil below. I am thinking this is an animal burrow, since I have found another void just under the soil surface nearby which I was able to confirm is a burrow.
My thought is that I could break away an opening in the asphalt large enough to gain greater access, fill the cavity to the best of my ability with crushed stone and then cover with and tamp the patch material.
I realize of course that if there is a burrow that close to the surface, it may manifest in other locations over time which I'll have to address too.
Otherwise, does this seem like an okay plan? Or should I be looking to do something else? (Short of tearing up the driveway, re-grading and repaving..)


texts: how do I reprogram a wired keypad for a garage door opener?

texts:
We moved into this house about 15 months ago. No problems with this until recently the external keypad stopped working. The keypad itself is Liftmaster, but the unit itself and wired openers (the button pads to open/close it) are Sears craftsman model 139.53425SRT. The keypad does NOT have an ENTER key, but it has '*' and '#' buttons, in addition to the 0-9 numbers. The keypad is wired to a button pad just on the inside of the door.

The best instructions I found for a keypad without an enter key say this:
"Is this a hard wired keypad? If so: To program the keypad, first unplug the garage door opener from the electrical outlet. Next, remove the nameplate from the console that the keypad plugs into and locate the program/operate switch. Flip the switch to program. Next, enter your desired four-digit PIN number into the keypad. Slide the switch back to operate and plug the garage door opener back in. The keypad should be programmed."

I followed this, although the button pad is wired with a battery. So when it said to unplug the opener from the electrical outlet, I instead removed the wires from the button pad opener to the actual opener in the garage ceiling. Should I instead have remove the battery at this point?

The button pad that the keypad is wired to does have a PROGRAM/OPERATE switch under the nameplate.


texts:
I am thinking of installing three wall space heaters in the basement I am renovating. I currently have three cables coming into the basement:

1 - 20amp for the bathroom GFCI that will power the fan,
1 - 20a for all of the wall sockets and
1 - 15amp for the bedroom and bathroom lighting

Here is the problem: I need a space heater for the bedroom, bathroom and two for the main living area.
My thoughts are because each unit pulls a maximum of 8.3amps that I can put two heaters on one 20amp breaker or do you think each heater would require its own dedicated 20amp breaker
What am I installing? This Cadet CEC163TW Energy Plus Wall Heater
1600 Watts at 240 volts; 1500 watts at 208 volts; 1000 watts at 120 Volts.
The cool thing about this heater is a unique power supply smart sensor auto-adjusts the heater voltage to match your voltage supply.


texts: Got a used Electric oven - not sure what wire and breaker to use

texts:
We just got a used electric oven.  We had propane, but no longer have access to propane.  Currently there is only a standard wall outlet behind the oven.

I realize I need to run a new wire, etc., but am over my head as far as what type of wire, what type of breaker, etc.

The metal panel inside the oven door says:

  3 wire 120/208 - 240 volts - 60 Hz AC ONLY

  KILOWATTS 208 VOLTS

  KILOWATTS 240 VOLTS

  WHIRLPOOL

  MODEL RE374PXDN 0

I have a double-30 breaker open in the box.  Can I use that, or should I get something bigger?

Is the "3 wire 120/208" the description of the wire I need?

I tried looking it up by the model number, but it doesn't appear to exist.  Any help greatly appreciated


texts: Dishwasher automatically turning on batch feed disposer?

texts:
We have a circa 1985 KitchenAid dishwasher and a Maytag batch disposer that may be from the same era.  I had no doubt that the dishwasher turned on the disposer automatically when it was draining until the appliance installer came to our house and insisted that this isn't possible.

Is this an obsolete feature, or a kluge someone did when installing our appliances?  Or am I just plain wrong?  I did happen to see in this thread that the dishwasher has its own food grinder, which perhaps I have been mistaking for our disposer running?


texts: Is a grounded (neutral) conductor required at a switch location that controls a switched receptacle used for lighting?

texts:
The National Electrical Code requires that all habitable rooms and bathrooms, have a switch controlled light (210.70(A)(1)). It also allows a switched receptacle to be used, instead of a lighting outlet (210.70(A)(1)EX.1).
Later in the code, it requires a grounded (neutral) conductor at switch locations that control lighting loads. However, it does not require a grounded (neutral) conductor, where the switch controls "a receptacle load".
So if a room uses switch controlled receptacles to meet the switch controlled light requirement, is the grounded (neutral) conductor required at the switch?

Relevant code text

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection
Article 210 Branch Circuits
210.70 Lighting Outlets Required. Lighting outlets shall be installed where specified in 210.70(A), (B), and (C).
(A) Dwelling Units. In dwelling units, lighting outlets shall be installed in accordance with 210.70(A)(1), (A)(2), and (A)(3).
(1) Habitable Rooms. At least one wall switch-controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in every habitable room and bathroom.
Exception No. 1: In other than kitchens and bathrooms, one or more receptacles controlled by a wall switch shall be permitted in lieu of lighting outlets.
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 404 Switches
404.2 Switch Connections.
(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit for other than the following:
(7) Where a switch controls a receptacle load.


texts: Can I use a zero-waste reverse osmosis filter with a water softener?

texts:
I have a zero-waste reverse osmosis system under my kitchen sink (a Watts ZRO-4 specifically, though there are other systems to which this applies) and my house is also pre-plumbed for a softener in my garage. From what I've read, the "zero waste" portion of this system means that it still has waste water (like any other RO), but just that it pushes it into the hot water line rather than down the drain as other systems do.

I'd like to install a softener in my garage, but since the RO has hookups into both the hot and cold under my sink (the hot is softened and the cold is non-softened), I just want to make sure I won't end up with salty water into my RO. If the system consumes hot water at all (or even if it doesn't maintain proper pressure into the hot water line when it's not discarding waste), it seems like this is a risk.

It sounds like the system only pushes waste into the hot water line and doesn't actually consume hot water during operation, but can anybody confirm that these two systems (zero-waste RO and softener) can operate together without any issues?


texts: What makes breakers different from each other?

texts: I'm not asking about tandem breakers or 2-pole or even different ampacities. Related to this question (Circuit breaker + panel selection -- make and breaker series?), I'd like to know what is actually different about these different styles of breakers (CH, QP, QO, etc.) that they get different names. Is it just the physical packaging? Obviously they're not all mutually intercompatible, but what styles are common these days, and how are they different from each other?


texts: Why would a gas furnace shut down after 20-30 seconds?

texts:
I have an 18yo Lennox gas furnace (Modle 23G89). It starts and runs for 20-30 seconds then shuts off. The light blinks in a steady state- no code. Then I removed the filter to guarantee a clogged filter wasn't the culprit. I replaced the flame sensor even though I doubted it. There are no loose, broken or off wires that I can see. All supply and returns vents are open. I took the end off the hose for pressure switch that connects near the inducer, but no change. Other appliances in the house use gas and are operating fine.

I called a repairman and had an appointment  but he never called or showed.
 I could use some advice here.


texts: How should I clean under the narrow toilet rim to restore full flush power?

texts:
I have just moved into a new apartment and I found the toilet does not have a very powerful flush. After thoroughly cleaning the entire toilet – inside and out –, checking the water valve is fully open, and tank water level is correct, I still found the toilet to not flush properly.

I believe I have traced the issue to grime and dirt under the toilet rim that must be clogging the rim jets. I tried a few different household cleaners with a toilet brush as well as pouring vinegar through the overflow tube. I have removed quite a bit of the dirt; however, about 35% of the toilet rim still does not provide water when the toilet is flushed.

As many online guides suggest, I tried to use a mirror to look under the rim of the toilet and a wire to clean out the jet holes. However, the space between the bowl and the rim is quite narrow and I am unable to see any jet holes under the rim even when using a good mirror and flashlight. I do see a lot of dirt however and I cannot seem to get rid of it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to restore full flushing to the toilet despite the hard to reach area under the rim? Is it possible that this toilet does not have any flush jets?


texts: Can I plug a workbench mounted double gang outlet into a single gang wall outlet?

texts:
I'm thinking about building a workbench on one side of my garage, but I need more outlets for all of my tools. I'm not planning on running everything at once, I just don't want to keep unplugging everything when I need to plug something else in. The most I might run at the same time might be a small shopvac and an orbital sander.

Some solutions I've considered are:

Mounting a separate double gang box on the side of the bench and plugging it into the wall outlet. Is this against electrical code? The cord running to the workbench box wouldn't be enclosed, so it's not considered a permanent fixture, right?
Replace the single gang outlet with a double gang? Do I need to worry about the extra electrical load? (I noticed this question after I originally posted. I hope they're not too similar.)
Just using a power strip. Do they make mountable power strips? It would be nice not to have to crawl under the bench to unplug tools.


texts: In the middle of a relatively cosmetic bathroom upgrade and went to change out the old Hollywood light fixture.  I opened the wall to add in a new junction box, but came across this random piece of wood behind the wall.  Its vertical (the photo may be turned sideways) but is not a stud as it doesn't go all the way down the wall and is maybe only 0.5" thick.  Any thoughts on what it could be?  Is it ok to cut it out?


texts:
I would like a nail gun for nailing

door trim
hardy board panel

Do I need two different nail guns?  If yes, what are the two different types?  I need the correct names of the types (nomenclature) so that I can search online & purchase.  Thank you


texts:
I’ve changed multiple switches around the house but I have come across one in the kitchen that has me confused.

The light switch has  two red wires and one black. I tried connecting the new one thinking I new how ( The picture shows the wires connected to the new light switch ) but something is wrong because the light will not turn on now.

All the wires  seem to have electricity coming through them as I have tested them with a non voltage tester.

I’m not sure what I am doing wrong. Can some one please help.

The second picture added shows the old switch. The two red wires were inserted in the top two holes and the black was inserted at the bottom left hole.


texts:
I am restoring an old lamp with a shade that attaches with sort of a hose clamp thing held on by a small machine screw. The screw was stuck so I ended up breaking the head off assuming it would be easy to replace.
Well I ran into a little problem. I have NO idea how you search for a specific size head. I went to my local hardware store. All their machine screws had heads almost twice as wide as mine despite being the right length and width. For a decorative item, those larger heads really wouldn’t look right.
Asking for a specific size head felt like I was speaking a foreign language. Can someone please inform me what terms to use when searching in person or online or what sizing system machine screw heads would go by? I thought this screw was fairly standard but I’m grasping at straws here.
The measurements are 5/8” long, 3/16” wide and the head is 7/32 or 1/4”.


texts:
So last night I was plugging a power strip into a wall socket in my son's room. As soon as the prongs touched the socket the whole room went dead. Being a bedroom is should not be affected by GFCI outlets but I checked them all anyway. I also checked the breaker box even though the other room that is on that circuit is still live and with power.

In the room in question I have 4 outlets and one light switch. All are dead. I do not have a colt meter so I commenced to changing the outlet that I originally tried to plug something in.  While I had the outlet out I noticed it was at the end of the line with only having one hot and one white. I went ahead with the replacement because my son wanted an outlet with built in USB power spots.

So now I am literally going outlet by outlet replacing them and turning the power back on and testing it. Nothing seems to be working. I have replaced 3 of the 4 outlets and am still getting no power to the room.

Before I replace them I am checking the brass tabs on the sides and also changing them all from backstab to screws. Nothing has made a difference.  Am I missing something or am I stuck doing this over and over until I find the broken one?


texts: loosening tan-colored thread-lock compound on black-iron pipe

texts:
I need to replace the 4 gallon Amtrol expansion tank on my hydronic heating system. The tank is threaded into a black-iron 90-degree fitting; whoever installed it originally used a tan-colored thread-lock compound. I cannot get the tank to budge with a pair of 12-inch channel lock pliers. I've tried a hefty adjustable wrench and tapping the wrench with a hammer. No joy.

Do some of these thread-lock compounds respond to a bit of heat?


texts: Ceiling fan low speed (only) once on slows to a stop

texts: Ceiling fan low speed (only) within a minute or two slows to a stop, however, you can barely hear a hum until you turn it off or go to high speed or medium speed, which operate great.


texts: How should I connect wiring for this ceiling light?

texts:
Firstly, for context,  I should say that this is British wiring and in a fairly new home. I have a ceiling light that I have to replace. Annoyingly I couldn't get a clear view of the wiring in the previous fitting because it was all mashed up and I had to remove all wires to get at it. Now im left with a fitting with wiring that doesn't make much sense to me and all the power off the the lights in my house :(
I've got, what appears to be, two lives, one neutral and an earth. Looking at the switch it looks like one of the lives (the slim brown one) is coming from the switch so that's a switched-live, which leaves me with a live and neutral (the ones in the sleeves).
What's going on here? and how do I get this wired back up to a "normal" light fitting (with Live, Neutral, Earth connections)?
Thanks


texts: Is there a special low temperature thermostat?

texts:
I have a gas ceiling mounted furnace for my garage.

I want to set my garage at 35-40° F (1-4° C).

Is there a special thermostat to control furnace at that low temp? (I've seen one works as low as 50° F (10° C), but not as low as 35-40° F)


texts: How to properly hire contractor(s) to fix deck and railing deterioration?

texts:
During home inspection while buying our place the inspector underestimated the cost of the job to fix rot that got inside the railing on a tiny (~3'x3') balcony/deck. He said it would cost ~$1000 to fix it and that's what we asked from the sellers.

Turns out that after getting a couple of quotes from different contractors, the cost is at least $2800 and possibly up to $5000 depending on how far the rot has gotten behind.

Part of the problem is that not only the railing but the floor also seem to be affected.

I've been trying to find contractors to fix it, but the price is either unreasonable (I don't get why fixing such an issue would cost $3000 and more) or they say that it's a project that is too small for them to take on.

If I understand correctly, there are actually at least 3 types of jobs required:

The deck/floor itself
The railing
Paint job

What would you do in this scenario? Hire the $3000 bid contractor and hope that they will manage and bring the right people on? Or hire few separate contractors to fix different parts of the issue?

It's the first time I'm solving a problem like that and honestly a bit confused about how to do it right.


texts:
My dog chewed through the plug end of a air purifier that I have in my house. I was wondering if it was possible to buy a plug by itself connect the end of this cord into the plug safely. Below is a picture of what the end of the cord now looks like.

EDIT: I am in the United States. Thank you all so much for all the thoughtful answers!


texts: Is a single ductless HVAC system more efficient than two smaller ductless systems?

texts:
I have an 809 sq ft stand-alone room with concrete slab and block walls that needs to have AC and heat.  We have windows on all sides, 8' ceilings, and live in Florida.  The room will be used as a dog kennel and office.

We're looking at ductless AC units and can't figure out if using one system is as efficient as using a mini-split system.

I would also like to know if using a 24,000 BTU system is sufficient.


texts: What do the flashing rates on an Elster REX2 electric meter signify?

texts:
Our electric service (USA) is metered with an Elster REX2 digital smart meter. There is a main display area that cycles through some lines of information, most importantly the total energy used. Below the main display is a double-headed arrow made of three elements (it looks something like ◀ ■ ▶). The arrow flashes slowly or quickly to indicate direction and rate of energy flow—the arrowhead flashes on and off relatively quickly, and the central box flashes less often.
I'm wondering what exactly those flashes indicate. Is the arrowhead one watt and the central box ten? Or is it ten and fifty? Fifty and 200?


texts: Originally thought it was a burn but it looks quite similar to stains from another post made here. Only reason I'm concerned is because it's not circular. It is around the same size as an index finger. The house is only 8 months old.


texts: How to safely unplug an outdoor extension cord that got wet?

texts: I plugged a indoor floor lamp outside using an indoor extension cord not realizing it was going to rain (i know - stupid!). Now I am afraid to unplug it, as everything is wet. What can I do to disconnect without getting electrocuted - I have kids. I need some help.


texts:
I've asked this question before. Now I've posted some pictures as I can't figure out where I should clean. I don't smell propane. I tired lighting manually with a lighter and nothing. I know to turn the valve on,  rotate the wheel to pilot. Push in and try igniter. It worked fine 6 months ago.

Any suggestions?


texts: Is there a better solution than a lint trap for venting a clothes dryer indoors?

texts:
My condo association does not allow installing a dryer vent to outdoors, so I am forced to vent my dryer into a lint trap. Unfortunately the trap I have does not catch all the dust, and the rooms adjacent to it gather visible dust within 2-3 weeks. I make sure to change the water in the trap after every load. Are there traps available that perform better? Are there any additional filters/gadgets that may help with this?

Some additional notes: As much as I would like to set up a vent to outside, it is not an option for me. Humidity is not an issue, as I only dry clothes with no or lowest heat setting, and I do have an a/c register nearby to help provide dry air.

Edit: The dryer is electric. I live in a suburb of Chicago, which may have a different building code than the city itself.


texts: Can I run a ground wire along the outside of conduit?

texts:
I have a sub panel on back of house. From main in garage is three wire.  2 hot one neutral.  NO GROUND WIRE.  Sub has a single bar used as neutral and grounds.  Its bonded to case (Screw in).  I will add a ground only bar, a ground to earth rod and wire them together.  I cannot get the snake all the way through the conduit to pull a ground wire.

Can I run a separate ground wire alongside the conduit to the sub?

===========================================================================

Update/clarifications:

Thank you Speters.  ArchonOSX, I understand there should be a common ground back to the main, I do not have that. Currently (pre-existing),  I have a 3wire 50 amp gfci breaker for a spa in this SUB.   Its the only circuit. I was advised to Isolate the neutral bar and add a ground bar, bonding it to earth;  Where new circuits utilize the ground bar. In this config would I be protected and no SUB/main panel metal become  energized if a short occurred?


texts: Do I need to add a vent when moving a toilet drain across the bathroom?

texts:
In working on finishing our basement, I've come to the bathroom.  It was originally plumbed with the plan of having the fixtures share a common wall (vanity, toilet, then tub).  so there is already a pipe going up the wall where the vanity would be, with a stub for the vanity drain.  And there is already a toilet stub in the floor, and a square full of gravel which I'm presuming is to give us freedom for whatever tub we ever installed.

If it matters, this is a concrete basement floor, and I believe the main sewer/drain line for the house runs directly under this room, likely under these fittings, in the order listed.  It's 2 year old construction, so everything is PVC.  I'm familiar with the ideas involved in moving a drain in concrete.

We want to convert the tub into a corner shower, and move the toilet to occupy where the end of the tub was.  (I'm also sliding a wall out.  Great thing about unfinished basements...)  I expect when I get under the concrete, this will involve about a 4'-5' branch from the main sewer drain out to the new toilet, rather than extra pipe and bends to connect where the original toilet drain was.

My question is what (if anything) do I need to do for a vent?  Can I just run over to the wall behind the new toilet, come up into the wall, then run around to the existing vent?  Would it be okay to leave a vent out?

Here's a terrible drawing, so you can see what I'm trying to describe...

I expect there to be further details needed, like I -think- that vent pipe is 2", but I'm not sure.  I've had this question rattling around in my head, trying to figure out how to get all the detail in, and finally just decided to ask with some and fill in if something's needed.

Thanks!


texts: My contractor forgot to add a decorative piece of tile to my project he says that he can do this after the project is complete? Is this possible?


texts:
This video demonstrate how to build a stud wall.

My room looks like the following image, concrete walls and ceiling

In order to soundproof the noise from outside, how to install studwork on concrete walls and ceiling?

How to fix stud on the walls and ceiling?


texts: According to European std. The domestic supply voltage is 220 V. When an equipment of high load current rating (Such as Kettle) is turned ON, the other elements such as 40W filament lamp is dim and also when checked any socket voltage with a DMM, it shows nearly 210 volts. How this happens..? In parallel domestic wiring, the voltages across any socket will be same(220). But how the heavy load affects the main supply of 220V..?


texts: How do I turn off the water flow to my toilet?

texts: I have a leaky tank problem with my upstairs toilet. can I turn the water supply to the toilet? If so, how do I turn off the toilet water supply?