texts: renovating a bathroom to add wet room for tub & shower

texts:
Thinking of  remodeling existing  11x 7 foot bathroom with bathtub & shower in one wet area. Not sure if the size of this area  5 ft x 4.5 ft is adequate,  without resulting in having to clean the bathtub every time a shower is taken? What is a "recommended space " so that the bathub will not be splashed when only a shower is taken?
      Also  concerned about if the shower drain will be adequate enough, without water overflowing into the rest of the bathroom ?

Your advice with these 2 questions will greatly be appreciated!

Thank You,
 George


texts: Can I run two cooktops on one circuit breaker?

texts:
I am purchasing two induction cooktops that each require a 240-volt outlet with a 3600 watt maximum capacity.

Can I run both cooktops to the same circuit breaker by just pigtailing two outlets together?


texts: Where is the best place to put a light on basement stairs?

texts: The stairs leading to my unfinished basement are a bit dark.  I'd like to add a simple light fixture to brighten them but I don't know the best place to put it to minimize shadows and glare.  Above the door?  In the ceiling?  At the foot of the stairs?  On the wall?  I've searched the web for a while and I can find code about when you need a light and where the switches need to be but can't find a best practice for fixture placement.


texts: Why does my ceiling lights require some other outlet in the room to be turned on and off again before it works?

texts:
Picture the scene:  I walk into a room and flick the light switch.  Nothing happens.  I grobble around in the dark to where a baby bottle warmer is plugged into a normal outlet and turn the warmer on.  All of a sudden the lights come on.

Now if I turn off the baby warmer the light remains on.  If I go and turn the light off and then turn it back on again after a couple of seconds, it turns on perfectly fine like a normal light.

If I turn the light off for a little while (something like 15 - 20 minutes) and then turn it on again I am back to the original situation of it not working and me tripping over the various rocking baby things strewn around the place.

Does anyone know why this is the case?

I am assuming that the outlets have been wired into the lighting circuit, which is why there is this relationship, but why does the light start working as normal as long as something else in the room has been turned on and off?

Should I call an exorcist?


texts: Can metal mesh furnace filters be replaced by paper filters?

texts: We have a furnace that has wire mesh air filters, will it function/be safe to replace those filters with paper filters?


texts:
I want to make a narrow concrete, decorative column like the ones found in this garden..

What is used as a mold for these types of columns?

What gives the concrete those subtle color changes (the red and/or blue hues)?


texts: Use of combination CAFCI and GFCI breakers instead of recepticles

texts:
I am about to begin a project that will include one or two new circuit for outdoor lights and receptacles attached to the main building. I will probably installing a new home run line from the panel for this circuit.

Is there any reason not to use a combination CAFCI/GFCI breaker instead of specialized receptacles, other than price (which is fairly inconsequential for one or two circuits)?

If these breakers are used, am I free to use all standard receptacles downstream (with appropriate outdoor covers as applicable)?

There are no shared neutrals planned for these circuits.


texts:
As part of our house improvements we're having a new roof fitted. The roof is going to have an airtight layer of treated chipboard beneath the rafters which will be screwed and taped for airtightness to the rafters.

Now, it is my plan to glue 50mm battens to the chip in order to suspend a plasterboard ceiling beneath the chipboard. My builder tells me he has not used glue for that purpose, but is happy to give it a go if I tell him what to do.

I'm pretty convinced that there is some modern glue that will work just fine for this application, but it obviously wants to be quick fixing and permanent, lest I want to have someone standing and holding it for several hours. The load won't be huge (plasterboard + plaster + some lights and cable), but I want to get it right.

Is anybody able to advise on what sort of product I should be considering? Are the grab adhesives right for this? Or an alternative strategy?


texts: How do I mitre exterior trim when the pieces are canted?

texts: I am ripping my hair out trying to figure out the angles on a piece of crown on an 8  pitch rake turning the corner to a horizontal attitude. the crown has a 38 degree spring. Can you help me ?


texts: How can I improve the security around my house and prevent theft?

texts:
My family and I moved to a new residential area. The environment is neither guarded nor gated, therefore security matters are concerning to us e.g. break-ins, theft, kidnapping, etc.

Since we moved in, our fence was often broken anonymously. We use a steel and aluminium fence. Therefore we set up CCTV cameras around the house, but recently the CCTV cameras were stolen also. This had made us very upset because the damage was costly.

I would like some suggestions on how to improve the quality of security. Moving again is not an option.


texts: How to remove the rod from the tiles in the shower

texts: The holder for the shower has been snapped and my shower is tiled can I remove it without breaking the tiles


texts: Why is my dryer producing condensation and wet inside when it is not in use?

texts:
During the recent one year, I have noticed my dryer is producing condensation and wet inside when it is not in use. I live in a 5 units apartment building and I am on the top floor. After I cleaned the dryer duct, it still has this problem. I almost feel the hot air comes from my neighbors' apartment and somehow it gets into my dyer when they are laundering.

Maybe the fan getting hot air out of the building for the building common duct is not working? How to identify? What type of contractors should I hire to check this issue?

Any advice is appreciated!


texts: What's the best / recommended way to mark and manage unused electrical cables

texts:
I'm currently renovating an old house and I've taken the decision to rewire it at the same time (The current wiring is much newer than the house, but isn't to the standard I'd like). I'm very keen to make this is a one-time event and, as this is intended to be our family home for some time, there are a few things I'd like to futureproof.

A particular example would be the shower - it's currently fed from the central heating boiler. I'm sure this is fine, but there's no provision for an electric shower at all. I'd like to run some 10mm cable from the ground floor (Where the consumer unit is) through to the loft, 'terminating' it above the bathroom. It will be unconnected to anything at both sides (Here in the UK, Showers are on individual radial circuits) - but in future a shower could be installed, and an additional circuit breaker added in no time.

My concern is that a random 10mm^2 cable will look VERY suspicious and will rightfully concern anyone in the future. How I do safely and clearly terminate it - ensuring that it's clearly marked up for the future and is both perfectly safe should someone accidentally connect one end.

I'm currently thinking I should put both ends into junction boxes, marked with a printed label. And then perhaps mark all areas where it may be visible (I.e., in the loft, under the floorboards and in the consumer box cupboard) with some kind of identifying tape.


texts: What is the logic behind aluminum siding?

texts:
I have aluminum siding on my house (put on by a previous owner) that is starting to fall apart after 20 years.

My house is a shingle house. It is not painted, except the trim. I can understand the logic of using siding on a house to avoid having to paint it, but I don't really understand the logic of putting siding on a shingle house.

Should I just remove it? My fear is that if I go to a siding guy he is going to say he can't repair the siding and will want to replace all of it.


texts: How to fasten armored cable to joist in tight space

texts: I have some armored cable (AC/MC) that needs to be fastened to the floor joist.  Very limited access.  I could probably reach in and swing a hammer a few inches, but no way to get a drill or screwdriver without busting up the ceiling.  I can use staples meant for NM cable?


texts: How can I install this programmable switch?

texts:
I just had our house re-wired (by a professional, not myself). I'm looking into replacing a light switch with a fancy programmable version (Honeywell Econoswitch RPLS740B).

The location for the switch has two switches next to each other in the same box. They both have two black wires and and one bare copper wire ground connected to them. There is a bundle of 2 white wires nutted together behind the switches not connected to anything.

When I look at the manual for the programmable switch, it has three connections: black, blue (load), and white (neutral).

So my questions:

For the black wires connected to the current switch, how do I know which is hot, and which is the heading off to the light (load)? Does it matter?
For the white, do I just un-nut one of the wires behind the switches and hook it up?
Why does the programmable switch require the white wire?


texts:
Here's my question since it maybe confusing.
Correctly there is a 12/2 with a ground running from panel in basement to the second floor AC. The outlet for the AC was wired 120v 20amp. I am going to install a ductless mini split and need 15amp 240v. So what I want to do is change the single pole breaker to a two pole breaker move the neutral to the breaker tape it red and change the outlet to a disconnect. So far I have no issues doing this.

My question or concern is how can I made sure there's no additional outlets/lights Daisy chained before the end of the line before I make it 240v. I obviously checked the normal ways and have turned the breaker off for 3 months and haven't noticed anything not working.


texts: Can a 100' string of led lights be powered from each end hooked to one power supply

texts: can both ends of a 100' strip of leds be hooked to the same power supply with out damaging the power supply of leds


texts: What to fill the cut in quartz counter top with?

texts:
My wife an I had a new quartz counter top installed in July.  In autumn the seam between two pieces expanded and if there was a sealant between the two pieces to also separated. With further weather change its now moved closer together.  I need to glue/seal this with something but I don't know what to use.  The gap seems to small for silicone calk.  Any ideas on how I fill/seal this?

Thanks,
Craig


texts: When is it ok to sand against the grain?

texts: Everything I've read says that you should always sand with the grain of the wood. What if it's impossible to sand with the grain? For example, I'm installing a brand new stair post - the kind with the rounded cap. The shape of the thing makes it impossible to sand with the grain in certain spots. Is it better to sand against the grain here or just leave these parts unsanded? If sanding against the grain, will this have any negative impact on how the wood holds the stain?


texts: Which is cheaper? Tankless or Storage water heater?

texts:
We are planning to build a family house, 2 adult, 2 child, 100m2, eastern EU.

We got stuck that what kind of water heating should we use.

Where we use hot water?:

shower
kitchen
sink in bathroom

Two solutions:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tankless_water_heating

vs.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storage_water_heater

The question: which one is cheaper?

As far as I see the tankless looks much cheaper to create/build up vs. storage/boiler. (Initial cost is lower.)
For operating expense: again, the tankless looks cheaper, since it doesn't need to always heat up a 200L sized boiler to ex.: 60C. Only heats up the water what is really needed at the given place.
Only minus points for the tankless: maybe bigger chance of getting an electric shock?


texts: Why do the wires to my dryer's thermostat keep burning off?

texts:
I have a Kenmore/Whirlpool dryer that a week ago stopped working.  The motor and timing would work, but there was no heat produced. I disassembled the entire dryer and vacuumed and brushed every nook and cranny of lint.
I ordered an entire set of thermostats, including a heating element. When I opened the back of the dryer, I noticed one of the leads to the running thermostat was burned off and the thermostat was charred and deformed. I tested the thermostat for continuity and it read OK. I respliced the wire and still no heat. I tested all the other thermostats and heater coils, including the motor switch and they all passed. I even went as far as testing the timer, which was also OK. I had a hard time believing the molten thermostat wasn't defective when everything I read said that if it has continuity.
Finally, I gave in and replaced only the charred thermostat and it worked. A few days later, the dryer stopped working again, Same problem. I open the dryer and retested all the thermostats and heater. Everything was OK. I also tested the leads at the main circuit breaker and the leads to the dryer.
Figuring at least one of the other thermostats has a false positive, I replaced them all, including the main fuse. It worked again and I thought I conquered the problem. Today, I did a load and found my clothes still damp. I turned on the dryer waited a few seconds and again, no heat.
The obvious question is, what can be possibly be wrong? I never replaced the heating coils, but there was no need to. The only thing I could remotely see wrong was some fine soot on the heating element wires on one side. Could this be a hot spot? I was also puzzled by how the dryer thermostats never read bad. Yes, I did disconnect one of the leads. Obviously, the troubleshooting steps are wrong.
I am at my wits end and a new dryer is out of the question. This dryer worked well for at least two decades and I am determind to solve this problem.
EDIT 2
Since I my last edit, which has been a few years, I have replaced various components in the dryer, including thermostats, wires, etc. I discovered there were burn marks on the wire terminals and the component it lead to. The failure was fairly consistent and wondered why it keeps happening.  Lo and behold, the terminals I was using were insulated crimp terminals and it was increasing the resistance of the wire causing it to burn out. I never suspected it because there was no apparent melting of the plastic insulator. I wanted to use non-insulated terminals, but they were very difficult to find and removing the insulation from the terminal connector made an unreliable connection.
EDIT 1
I opened the dryer and tested all of the thermostats and one of the new ones installed above the coils failed. It had no continuity. I replaced it and now it works. What could be causing the thermostats to fail? I should also add that the ducts are totally clean and unobstructed.
My guess is that the replacement parts are of shoddy quality. They were very cheap compared to the ones at Sears.  $18 for all thermostats and a fuse versus $29 for just the one that was bad. I am worried that that there may be an electrical problem, venting problem (no changes) or the coil is overheating.


texts: I am in the process of finishing my basement.  There is currently a bathroom roughed in. My question is on venting.  There is no dedicated vent stack I can access in the basement.  Where is the best place to tie in to the existing plumbing for venting?


texts: pouring concrete right next to asphalt driveway

texts: I am planning to install trench drain in front of my garage. The driveway to the garage is asphalt (less than 2" thick), and the space between the trench drain and asphalt will be filled with concrete. I am wondering whether the concrete will nicely meet the edge of the asphalt if I just pour concrete up to the asphalt without any form. Or, to have a better joint between concrete and asphalt, would it be better if I build a form for a concrete, pour concrete inside the form and fill the rest with asphalt patch? Underneath the asphalt driveway is soil.


texts: What do you call the fastener that's like a metal zip tie with a screw?

texts:
I assure you that this is not the beginning of a fastener-related standup routine.

While working out at the gym, I saw a fastener that looks like a metal zip tie, with a screw to tighten it. Two pictures below. This can be useful for me in some of my projects. Any idea what it's called and where I can buy it?


texts: Why is a light switch is buzzing at audible volume?

texts:
just noticed that a light switch (mechanical, not a dimmer; 220v 50hz) is buzzing at audible volume (can hear in 20cm), when both keys are on (first: traditional lightbulb, second: 23w energy saving bulb - with all that electronics inside).

Didn't opened the switch so dunno how it is wired (common phase.. or a common ground - if an installation point is powered by two wires, a drunk specialist may have used them the wrong way), it is known that this connection is split from wall sockets/main room lightning (yes, two switches outside the house!).

Problem:

pressing key 2: energy-saving bulb enabled, no sound
2, then 1 (normal bulb): sound.
2, ..some time, 1: sound
1, 2: sound
sometimes, no sound at any combination.

Guessing that a bulb is possibly broken and sends a high-freq noise that forms an arc..
Unfortunatelly can't get a single normal bulb today to test if it forms a noise, too.


texts: Can I run power from a GFCI receptacle to a standard receptacle then to a light switch?

texts: I have a single GFCI outlet and I want to add a few standard receptacles and a light from it.  I am curious if it is possible to go from the GFCI, to two standard outlets then on to a light switch?


texts: Is there an exsiting complete soundproof tutorialfor bedroom?

texts:
I am trying to soundproofing my bedroom, from outside noise.

my bedroom is inside a apartments building that looks like the following image (img_1)

where hundreds of people lives in there.

I googled soundproofing and got these sites

http://www.soundproofing.org

https://www.thespruce.com/

although I didn't find a complete tutorial. By "complete", I mean a sequence of tutorials starting with 6 bare concrete walls that looks like the following image (img_2)

How much I can modify the space? I am allowed to drill on the wall/celling/floor I am not allowed to ged rid of them nor break them apart.


texts: Would tiling a basement floor provide any effective moisture barrier?

texts:
I'm about to undertake another basement remodel. With our first, we simply stained the concrete floor. We really liked the look of it. However, it still would bring in moisture at times.

This time, I'm considering tile. Would adding tile in any way help reduce the potential of moisture migrating through the floor? Or should I just assume that grout won't be any type of blocker anyways.

What if I painted the floor with a product like Redgard first? Overkill?

I may also go with vinyl plank flooring...which I assume WOULD act as a barrier.


texts: detect whether something is metal by touching it

texts:
I am doing things to my walls and can't tell whether I have pierced an electrical cable.  My AC wire detecting studfinder seems unreliable.

I have tried continuity tests via my multimeter between some of the holes and different circuits and they have come up negative.  I'd like to be able to poke a prong like my multimeter into the hole and see if it whatever it touches is metal.

Is there any kind of an instrument to do this or an attachment to my multimeter?


texts: Low Voltage cable run thru Flexible Aluminum Pipe

texts:
Are there any code issues with running CAT6 and Coax thru flexible duct that is not part of a ventilation system?

Basically I want to use something like this as conduit into an unfinished attic instead of PVC:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-3-in-x-96-in-Round-Aluminum-Flex-Pipe-EX-AF-396/202907340

The attic is dusty and full of insulation.  So I want something flexible that can curve back up to keep the dust and insulation from falling into the living space/closet


texts: Should range hood ducting be installed before cabinetry?

texts: When should I install range hood ducting? I am putting in new cabinets. The kitchen has never been vented outside before. The duct work needs to be installed above the cabinets. What needs to be done first, cabinets or duct?


texts: How to remove asphalt used to repair concrete

texts:
When the previous homeowners replaced the asphalt driveway, they had them fill in the missing concrete from the front edge of the garage (ranges from 1/2 inch to 3 inches into the garage.  I want to resurface the garage (fix the pitting) and paint it.  I doubt the asphalt will take the paint, so I'd like to remove it and repair the concrete with a concrete repair.  Then, when I paint it, it will look nice.

I highly doubt the asphalt repair is the same thickness, so if I use a "circular saw" type device, I would probably cut into the concrete too much and end up with more of a repair.  I was wondering if I could use an oscillating tool to cut into the asphalt--at least to make a straight line. I'm thinking it would allow me to "feel" where the asphalt ends and the concrete starts (depth wise).  Then, maybe I can use a cold chisel to work the asphalt out.  Will this work?  Is there a better way?  Or should I live with the asphalt?

Here's some pictures showing what I mean (the inside of the garage is at the bottom):

Thanks,

Jim


texts:
I want to add a sub panel in my basement. The main panel is in my garage, the next level up. The distance from the main panel is roughly 10 feet. The main power comes in through the basement and up to the garage panel. If I add a sub panel in the basement, there is no where on the underside of the main panel where I can feed the #2 cable. All the spots left on the lower part of the box are too small.

Obviously the main panel sits between 2 2x4’s. If I ran the cable between the next set of 2x4’s, is it okay by code to run the cable though the 2x4 above the main panel the have it come through the top of the main panel, is that okay.

In addition, does that #2 cable have to be secured to the 2x4’s along it’s route?

One last thing. I purchase a 125 amp panel and I was told the the #2 wire is sufficient by code. Is that correct? I definitely do not need 125 amps in the basement. I will only be using 3 or 4 breakers in that box for lighting and outlets.

I just want to make sure I run this correctly the first time because I will be tearing out drywall in the garage and I will be replacing it too and only want to do the job once.


texts: Use strips of OSB as studs for sound-insulating (movable) wall

texts:
I'm designing a wall/door sized 2.6*2.4 meters. It'll be made of 10mm thick OSB sheet, sandwiching 50mm of rockwool:

I consider using 50mm - wide strips of 22mm OSB as studs to fix sheets to. To avoid warping and have stability as the wall is not fixed.

The questions are:

Is it worth to put something like this between studs and the sheets to limit low-frequency sound transfer through studs?
Am I right about timber vs OSB being less stable?
How many screws do I need and what kind would suit this purpose the best?


texts:
So I purchased a new desk last weekend, and it needs a bit of restoration before I can use it.

I would estimate it to be around 80-100 years old (but could be older). I am fairly sure the finish currently on it is a varnish. To begin with I have given a quick sand to the drawers and an inside panel with an orbital sander (I tried removing the finish with a Varnish stripper, but this didn't have great results, some of it came off, but not a lot. this is the result so far (with the sander):

As you can see, the existing stain is quite deep into the wood, am I best of just persisting with sanding to take it back to its original surface?

Once back to the original surface I plan on re-varnishing with an Oak shade (so lighter than the old finish). Due to the age of the desk I imagine the current finish is an oil based product, so I will have to-refinish with an oil based product again (unless I manage to take it all back to its original surface)

This was the desk before I started (the picture from the Gumtree Advert,you can't see from the picture, but it needs a few panels filling/re supporting and the finish is much darker in person):


texts: Is it safe to replace a GFCI breaker with an arc fault breaker?

texts: We recently had our electrical panel replaced/upgraded and I noticed that our GFCI breaker was replaced with an Arc Fault breaker.  Is that safe? Are GFCI breakers obsolete now?


texts: How can I tighten a large nut under the sink?

texts:
I just installed my new peerless kitchen faucet. I used my hand to tight the hex nut because the space is pretty small.(I think that the size is 1 1/2)

It is temporary. I tried Basin Wrench and adjustable wrench. Both of them are not working because the handles are long.

See the sample image, the space appears to be large in the demo video but actually not in the real world.

I even thought to use wrench driver, but I don't want to try different tools and return them if not applicable.

Any idea?


texts: What glass and materials are needed to install a glass shower screen against a sloped wall and where can I get them?

texts: I saw a picture in an answer to a question from 3/6/11 about installing a shower curtain with a sloped ceiling.  There was a piece of "glass" installed on the sloped side (left) and a shower curtain on the right.  I was wondering if it was in fact glass the was specially cut or something that you made yourself.  We have this problem and are looking for a solution just like this.


texts: MWF GE smartfilter refrigerator water filter needs to be replaced monthly? (instead of 6 months)

texts:
We have had an ongoing issue with the MWF water filter needing to be replaced on an almost monthly basis. GE said the issue was with buying the generic brand, so we purchased directly from GE - same exact problem.
Works great for a few weeks then the water slows to a trickle.
Per GE the filter should be replaced every 6 months.
There is no problem with the water line, as it runs fine without the filter in place.
Our water is fine (tested by the city - no issues) and we don't use an excessive amount.
Anyone else run into this problem?
Replacing the filter every month is a huge expense.


texts: My ceiling fan light turns off then back on after I replaced the switch from a dimmer to a standard

texts: I recently installed a ceiling fan that has a light. It worked perfectly except the motor was very loud and hummed. I read that replacing the  previous dimmer switch with a standard switch helped. It stopped the loud humming, but now occasionally the light turns off, then turns on again. I can’t find anything specific to this dilemma. Any suggestions? Thank you!


texts:
I arrived home today from running some errands to find that the carbon monoxide alarm in my garage was going off. The display was reading 55 ppm CO (which I gather is a non-lethal but nevertheless high reading).

The garage is detached from the house and has no heat. There are several pieces of gas-powered lawn equipment stored there but nothing has been running running. I was gone from the house for several hours so I assume any exhaust from the car briefly running in the garage had dissipated. (When I left the house I just started the car and drove out... no remote start or idling in the garage.)

Does anyone have any idea what the cause of carbon monoxide might be? The CO alarm is less than a year old but maybe it is defective?


texts: How to remove this black stuff at my countertop corner joint

texts: Wondering if anyone has tips on how to properly remove and clean this. I've got scrubbers, soap, but they didn't really work.


texts: How much ventilation space does a refrigerator need?

texts: The person who built our refrigerator cabinet box only left 1" for ventilation at the top of the refrigerator.  Is this enough space for proper ventilation?  There is a 1" gap on either side, and a 4" gap in the back (due to a narrow heating duct going up the wall behind it).


texts: Need to know the extra boxes connected to exterior outlet

texts:
So I have an exterior outlet that seems to be up to code. But I want to move the outlet 4’ so that I can put pavers in this area.
Before I do I need to know if these two boxes can be moved.
The outlet was originally setup for a jacuzzi so the extra boxes may have been for that. The new outlet will just be for a fan or Bluetooth speaker aka low usage.
Here are some pictures. Any help would be appreciated.

I added a pic of the middle box - It doesn’t really serve a purpose


texts: How to convert Rancilio Classe 7 USB Espresso Machine from 3 phase to single phase system

texts:
I have a Rancilio Classe 7 USB Espresso Machine that is setup for 3-phase power and I'd like to convert it to single-phase power.
Is this possible and if so, what do I need to do it?
Rancilio Web Site


texts: Can I cover the vent leading to my crawlspace?

texts: I am renting a house that has no central air, instead we have to use window units. There is evidence that the house used to have a gas heater, and there is a 2 foot by 3 foot hole in the floor leading to the crawlspace beneath the house with a grate placed over it. The landlord said she won't cover it, because it is for ventilation. Is this hole still necessary, or can I cover it up?


texts: Is it possible to store air compressor filled without damage from water?

texts: I'd like to keep my air compressor filled for quick tire top-offs, like at gas stations.  The manual says to empty the tank after 4 hours.  How do gas stations avoid draining this often?  Is it possible with a consumer compressor?


texts: How to inspect/test old capped off drain pipe

texts:
I have a roughed-in bathroom in the basement of my 1969 home. There is a 1.5" metal drain pipe coming through the slab. It is capped with a metal cap.

I am looking to install a bathtub and use this drain. However, due to the age of the home and the fact that it is metal pipe, I am concerned that the drain pipe may be corroded or leaking under the slab, which may be the reason there is no bathtub there to begin with (possibly the previous owner simply removed the tub rather than breaking up the slab and repairing the pipe).

What I want to know is, how can I test/inspect this drain pipe before installing the bathtub to make certain it is not leaking or clogged under the slab? Can I just pour some water in it and make sure it drains? Do I need someone to camera-snake it?

Thanks for your advice.


texts:
I have a table that has the legs drill-attached to the surface. The surface and the whole table is quite heavy.
What is the best way to move the table around a room if
1) it is not very easy to lift up and carry around
2) pushing it could be risky for the attached legs?


texts: Outlet trips GFCI and Circuit Breaker. Help!

texts:
We have three outlets in our kitchen that are all connected to one circuit breaker.  We often use these outlets for our toaster oven and rice cooker.  About a month ago, the outlet started to trip the GFCI + circuit breaker whenever we used our toaster oven or rice cooker.  I initially thought this might be due to a bad GFCI in one of the outlets, so I replaced all three (bought pretty expensive $25 outlets thinking that this would hopefully solve the issue).

We started to use the outlets again with the rice cooker and toaster oven.  Everything was fine for about a week with everyday use.  Then the same thing started to happen again

We remodel our home 2 years ago with all updated electrical except for the panel outside (it had been updated in the last 5 years).


texts:
I've recently bought a 100 year old wood frame house from a DiY guy who took decent care of the place. He didn't put any insulation in the attic though and my home inspector said insulation is a great easy home improvement project with very little downside or risk.

So among a few other projects, I started buying a batt of 19 faced insulation every time I go to the store, and then laying it piece by piece. My plan was to then buy 30 r insulation unfaced and lay it on top.

But...

We've had some exceptionally hot weather this summer. Today there's a fierce thunderstorm, and I'm sitting by the chimney and I hear drip... Drip... Crap. I run up to the attic, and I have two significant leaks. One from the chimney flashing, and one from the attic vent. Rest of the attic is bone dry.

I run to the basement and there's a stream of water running from the wall. I used to see lots of condensation on the floor but this is visible moving water. Woah, that's new.

Obviously these need fixed, and obviously my insulation needs to air dry now. But the timing has me suspicious. Did I cause the leak? Did the attic overheat and cause something to shift? Or did the ancient chimney just finally wedge the wood frame enough for water?

Should I pull the insulation out and can the whole project? Or fix the leaks and forge ahead?

Thanks for any help.


texts: Identifying Dusk to Dawn Floodlight with 'Modern Light sensors'

texts:
The context is a set of outdoor Florida stairs.

This post indicates:

The light sensor is obsolete

Modern light sensors "learn".  It takes them a day or two to learn "This is as bright as it gets" and "this is as dark as it gets", but once it does so, it will correctly switch the dusk-to-dawn lighting.  However it loses the memory if you switch power off to it.

Question

When shopping, how do I identify such a modern light sensor (preferably integrated in a fixture)?   Are products labeled in such a way to identify such sensors?


texts: What box extender to use for dryer outlet?

texts:
I am planning on putting beadboard wainscoting on a laundry room wall. I will need to add an extender to the dryer's 240v outlet to keep it to electrical code and have the outlet sit flush up against the extender. The beadboard will add 3/16" thickness to the wall.

I can't find a suitable product to use. I've used these in the past for 1-gang outlets, but there doesn't seem to be one for the bigger box. Which product should I use?

Here's a picture of the box, it is plastic and W: 3.75" H: 3.5":


texts: What plaster compounds should be used when plastering an unheated building?

texts: Remodeling an old school that was built in 1902 that had plaster stripes on inside walls. they want it to look original.  Will it work to put 1/2inch OSB on the wall and then a layer of plaster on the OSB? tape the joints of course. This building will not be heated and is located along the Ohio River where it is very damp. What plaster compound should i use and will this work, or any other suggestions


texts: Do these "rafter ties" tie anything together?

texts:
I've been wondering if I can open this ceiling up for a tall room. I've been reading that the ceiling joists are often also rafter ties so I went up there today to take a look. I can see a few are tied to the knee wall and have an angle brace, but a majority seem like they just span the house, but aren't really tied to anything. I would like some opinions on this. The plan is to cut them out and replace them with steel rods and turnbuckles where needed to keep things tied together.

The roof is best described as a mansard with a flat top. I've tried to show that here:

This is the only point load I see. It actually doesn't rest on a joist, it rests on that 3/4 board that is spread across the joists so I can't imagine it provides a ton of weight bearing

Here is a drawing that kind of shows the roof shape


texts: I want to use some stop squeak screws that pull the subfloor tight to the joists, then break off beneath the surface of the floor.  I am having a difficult time locating the joists: my stud finder doesn't seem to work very well and I am losing my marbles drilling holes through carpeting and missing the joist.  I am doing this on both carpet and vinyl.


texts: gas furnace pilot light is lit,,won't produce heat, making a clicking sound,,,

texts: my gas furnace isn't producing heat  the pilot light is on  and it's making a clicking sound  what can I do?   I've tapped the flame rod.


texts: How do I connect a 4-wire oven to a 3-wire outlet?

texts: I have a new whirlpool dbl oven with a 4 wire wiring harness-white, black, red and green. My old single oven compartments junction box (house was built in '79), has 3 wires-black, white, and copper ground. 50amp, 240v circuit. How do I correctly connect these?


texts: Outdoor burst pipe best practice for the winter

texts:
We had an outdoor tap (faucet) fitted in the summer last year here in Edinburgh UK. The temperature here often dips to just below freezing over the winter. Outside, at least. The plumber suggested we should turn off the water under the kitchen sink (a screwdriver turnable valve), but also leave the tap/faucet fully open on the outside wall. That last to allow cooling water to expand up and out as it is freezing - hopefully slowly. That's exactly what we did.
Anyway, Today (March 21st), I closed up the outside tap, and under the kitchen sink opened up the wee valve.  Guess what? .. super spraying burst pipe outside!! There's a copper pipe rising to the tap, from foot level, and it has burst a couple of feet up. We followed instructions to the letter :(
We need to get that repaired, but what to do instead for next winter?  Under the kitchen floor (a crawl space for slim people) there's push-to-fit plastic piping. That goes out through a cavity wall as copper pipe, before making a 90 degree turn up the wall at foot level.  Is polystyrene insulation enough for the same pipe? Do we need a mechanism to fully drain the outside section?
Outside:


texts: Possible causes for sound of water running through house pipes when water is off?

texts: We recently moved back into our beach house after hurricane Sandy. During the storm repair the lower level was rebuilt including moving a bathroom and moving the house valve (only a few feet).  We always now hear the sound of water running through pipes (a whooshing sound)even though no water is running. Here is the strange part.  When I shut the house walve ( this  is inside the house where the water line enters the house which is in the wall behind a panel)the pitch of the sound changes slightly but it does not go away. One would think if there was a leak after the valve the sound would stop.  In addition when we run water in the house we hear the usual sound of water running in the pipes layered on top of the first sound.  The pitch of the first sound does not change. The plumber is stumped as am I.  When could possible cause this?  It's pretty annoying.


texts: Hardwire Dishwasher Installation question

texts: I am installing a whirlpool dishwasher in my house. I am going to hardwire it. The wires coming from the dishwasher are a black and white 16 gauge. the wire coming out of my wall contain a black and white 12 gauge wire as well as a ground. how do i attach the two? can i just use a wire nut? does it matter that the gauge are different sizes?


texts: How to run HVAC vent into cold room, below a supporting beam?

texts:
A previous owner put a small addition on the house and the little room is not well heated.  (I have forced air HVAC.)  One wall of the small addition is shared with a larger room.  On the side of the shared wall is a sheet metal plenum 8"x8" in cross section that brings HVAC to the larger room and a foyer.  I want to open a vent from the plenum in the larger room into the small, colder room.  Here is the problem.

The plenum is right next to a supporting beam, so I need to run a path for the air around the beam.  There is no easy way to get into the crawl space above the two rooms in question.  So, I need to run the path below the beam.

My question: Do I need to build a sheet metal duct or can I just make a path for the HVAC air using plasterboard?

Thx.


texts: Can wood floors be refinished half a room at a time?

texts: I have a small house. I'm doing it. or would like to do it. my funds are all tied up and I have no help. can't afford it either.  can I just do 1/2 a room at a time?


texts: Unusual wiring in receptacle connected to switch

texts: I have a receptacle with a wiring configuration I am not familiar with (see picture). The receptacle is controlled by a single pole switch elsewhere in the room. The two black wires are pig-tailed together in the box. One white wire is connected to a terminal on each side of the receptacle. The ground wire is connected both to the ground terminal and the bottom neutral terminal. Is this normal? Is it safe? This looks similar to something I've read about called a 'bootleg ground' -- not sure if that's the case here. The house is ~40 years old and the switch/receptacle have been operating correctly and a plug-in receptacle tester doesn't show any problems. It just doesn't seem right to me. Any advice would be appreciated!


texts: Should I actively circulate air into conditioned attic?

texts:
I'm almost certain that I'm going to seal my attic using closed cell foam and make it a conditioned space. I intend to have a professional spray closed cell foam to the underside of the roof deck. I will not be finishing it in any other way.

I want to do this because properly sealing the living space ceiling is a nightmare with so many and light penetrations, plus the cieling heights change throughout. There are currently laid Batts which are insufficient. Additionally there have been repeat pest invasions so I'm hoping address multiple problems here.

The roof is tile, vented with intermittent soffit vents and a few off ridge vents.

Once the attic is brought into the conditioned house envelope should I install systems to actively circulate its air with the rest of the living space below?


texts: Can I cover these pipes in my basement floor with concrete?

texts:
I have a 18in by 18in area in my basement floor that is open dirt. The house is measuring high for radon so I need to seal this up as it is a major source for radon getting into the house.

There are some water pipes coming out of the dirt area, and something else that you can just see the top of... not sure what it is. Can I cover this all with concrete and seal it up? That's what the radon mitigation company said to do. Would I ever need to access these pipes again?


texts:
I am installing a Mustee 3060L acrylic shower pan in my basement bathroom. This will be installed on concrete.
I am having a challenging time figuring out how exactly go go about installing this. The "manual" says use silicone between the pan flange and the studs to eliminate squeaking. It also suggests using a thinset mortar if the pan is not level. No marks or pre-drilled holes on flange.
Is the mortar necessary if the pan is completely level.
How should I go about fastening it to the studs, if at all?


texts: Best/Most Affordable Material to use for Long Rafter

texts:
I am getting ready to put a new roof on our house (changing the structure and all) and I am wondering what the best and most affordable kind of lumber or material is for the job. I need to span a 26' distance with no supports except at both ends (we are using a structural ridge beam at the peek).

I have looked into dimensional lumber, but it isn't as affordable as I had hoped. I'm still unsure what size we will need, but it will likely either be 2x10s or 2x12s. The best price I have found on the 2x10s is $37.60 each and $46.27 each for the 2x12s (if you buy 100 or more). We will likely need around 80 rafters, so that adds up quickly.

Is there a better material to use besides dimensional lumber or is there are trick to getting better prices on it?


texts: goodman furnace /ac no y terminal on board

texts:
i live on a small budget and finally aquired an older goodman furnace (gmpn080-4)
and ac which were in very good condition out of a friends place and had only been used for 2-3 yrs. even the condenser outside was kept covered and secured when not in use . that said the units were in full working order together . they have been installed at my place all duct,furnace,a-coil,condenser (and charged) ,gas and main electric work is done .
but now i need some help on how to reconnect the low voltage wires .under normal circumstances i think i would have no problem but this furnace model has no Y terminal !!!
i only have 3 wires from the board W G R i bought a basic thermostat for heat/cool
ran a 5 wire of it and connected it at the thermostat as required also ran wire from condenser to furnace (airhandler). now i look at 5 wires from thermostat and the yellow and red from the condenser as well as the 3 wires red ,green and white from the furnace .missed the chance to be there during dismantling and i do not want to make a mistake and ruin what i have . where do they go ???
( i do not want to break the rules here by posting a link but pictures often tell more then words .there is an ebay listing that shows my exact board under the tittle : OEM Goodman Janitrol Furnace Control Circuit Board Panel B1809913S to see what i have )
i used to have grey hair but it turned white from googling this for days is there a way you could steer me to a wiring schematic that shows where i need to connect (assuming doubling up )the wires from the condenser to the board . the heat side i think i understand where to go. just not were i need to double the connection for the 2 wires from the condenser
any help be truly appreciated and thanks in advance !!!


texts: How to attach plastic (vapor barrier) to the studs?

texts: What's the best way to attach 4 mil plastic (vapor barrier) to the studs? I tried to use regular nails (sinkers 4d 1 - 3/8'') but the plastic sheet goes off the studs (through the head of the nails) any time I pull the plastic sheet a little bit.


texts:
We just bought a house and were pulling some nails left over from what was probably crown moulding. The nails had been painted over and some of the paint came off with the nails.

I peeled off a bit more to see if I could find a good place to sand and fill in with joint compound, but it just kept coming off (rather easily too). After closer inspection it appears that it might be the paper from the gypsum has detached, although I can't tell what's texture/joint compound and whether the layer below that is the actual drywall.

It appears that what's peeling off may actually be paint (left), texture (center) and drywall paper (right).

So several questions:

What's actually going on here -- is this a common problem and my google-fu is failing me?
Is there something that can be done to the affected area only?
And if not, can I just peel all of this off, smooth over rough areas with joint compound, prime, texture and paint? Or is there something else that needs to be done?


texts: Radiators don't heat up evenly, and am missing an Expansion Vessel. Do I need it?

texts:
I have a new Worcester 40CDI Regular Boiler that does not come with a built-in expansion vessel. I just discovered that the installer did not install an external expansion vessel either. For HW, I have an unvented cylinder which has a expansion vessel connected to its cold inlet though.

Our radiators don't heat evenly and some remain cold. Called in a plumber and he said that the original installer should have put in an expansion vessel for the boiler and that will solve my heating issues (it seems we've got a pressurized 'Sealed System' - sadly it's also missing a pressure release valve which he said he would install). I'm not convinced as an expansion vessel is essentially only to prevent backflow of water and is a safety measure (right?) and has nothing to do with additional flow of water in our radiators. I reckon it wasn't power flushed properly when the boiler was recently replaced as we've already tried balancing the radiators and that doesn't really help. Some radiators are boiling hot (at 70 degrees set for the boiler) while some are mildly warm.

Any advice? Should I proceed with the expansion vessel anyway (I reckon we still need one for safety reasons but don't think that'll solve my heating problems). Thanks.


texts:
I have water shut-off valve (all-or-nothing) for an outside hose. I see the valve is ON, but the water is not coming in outside hose.
Edit:
The valve is under kitchen sink in the Main floor. This is a walkout basement house and the outdoor faucet  is in the backyard.
It was never turned off during last winter, so I was wrong.
Although cold water is coming through  to the Kitchen Faucet.


texts: How to do I calculate how much sand and cement needed for bedding mortar

texts:
I need to make some bedding mortar for laying coping stones on a brick wall

Ive calculated the volume of mortar needed

12m x 0.41m x 0.03m = 0.1476 m3

I buy cement and sand in 25 kg bags and would use 1-4 cement/sand ratio
So 125kg would be 1 bag of cement to 4 bags of sand

but how to I equate weight with volume ?


texts: What could green covering on a radiator pipe be?

texts: Recently I have discovered the pipe to my radiator is looking a bit weird.  From what I can tell, it does not quite look like corrosion, neither like mold. I think I recall there was some green paint on the pipe, but I am not sure. Neither would I know how it would turn into this. Any ideas what this could be?


texts:
I have a hot tub connected to a 50 amp 220v trip that has a neutral pigtail connected to the neutral bus. The natural for the tub is connected to the bus. The 220v connects directly to the control panel PCB which then has a series of relays to switch the pumps, water heater etc.

The GFCI started tripping. The individual connectors were all separated from the PCB for the 220v connections such that the only thing that was being powered was the control board running 110v. It still tripped the GFCI immediately. The operation of the GFCI felt a bit odd and the ‘on’ position did not feel as though it went home when the power was off.

So I replaced the GFCI with the same result, an instant trip. I then removed the secondary winding's (12v & 24v) from the PCB. Same result. I then removed the ground from the transformer, same result. I then removed the primary coil from power and no trip. I replaced the transformer. When the new transformer is connected I get the exact same problem, instant trip when powered. I then disconnected the hot tub completely at the breaker box. I then wired the new transformer directly to the new GFCI and it trips immediately with no load connected to the secondary.

I tried it by removing the ground from the transformer no change. What am I doing wrong, or is the new transform faulty as well? I just followed the original wiring. When the GFCI is bypassed the tub works as normal. NO I would not use the tub with no GFCI!

Follup from OP:

This is a an old installation with a new GFI wired exactly as the old unit had been wired. Just a direct replacement for three wires. Yes being British I use different terminology trip/breaker. You may have hit the nail on the head with the neutral. I just followed the existing wiring verbatim as while this has never been used since I have had the house, it did not enter my head that the original wiring could have been incorrectly installed as it would never have worked. That does not mean to say that the previous occupant did not replace the GFI and quit when the tub did not work. I am not sure that I still have the wiring leaflet it may have been thrown out with the packaging. I dare say that I will be able to locate it on the web. I am used to 240v as a single hot at 50Hz, that does bite!

Thanks, dumb should have looked not copied. The reason why the old one was tripping was due to connecting the neutral to the bus bar not the load on the breaker. Installed correctly and the old breaker and original transformer work fine. I guess the answer is don't assume!


texts: Do Dimmable LED on Standard Dimmers Save Energy?

texts:
A lot of new LED bulbs claim they work on standard dimmers. Bought a bunch of the Philips Slim Style Dimmable LEDs when they were on sale at Home Depot. They work fairly well on dimmers that were already in the wall. Not sure what type of dimmers they are. Just the standard slide dimmers you'd get cheap at the hardware store.

Not very familiar with the technology used in these types of bulbs. My main point in dimming them is to reduce the amount of light but I'm wondering if dimming these will reduce the amount of energy used and if so how much? I understand dimming incandescent bulbs doesn't save as much as you might think compared to the light output.

Also would dimming these bulbs lessen their life span?


texts: Why is my air compressor drawing too many amps?

texts:
I have an old air compressor (1970s/1980s vintage) that has recently started tripping the circuit breaker that it is on. I hooked up a clamp meter and found that when the compressor motor is running with no load (belt removed) it is drawing 12 amps and when the belt is in place it is drawing 27 amps.

The motor is a 1hp unit with a listed FLA of just over 17 amps @ 120v. I've checked for any loose connections as well as looked it over with a thermal camera while it's running and see nothing that stands out as obviously abnormal.

The motor can be wired for either 120 or 240 volts, and is currently wired for 120 volts. There are four wires inside of the connection box on the end of the motor.

What would cause such a high current draw and what should I check next?


texts: I have a GFI receptacle in the garage that protects the bathrooms and outside receptacles, everything is three pronged.  Recently the circuit has been shutting off on a regular basis.  I thought I had found the problem in the outside outlet where the face was cracked so I replaced the outlet this seemed to fix it for a while.  No luck.  Next I checked the fish pond pumps, air pump was not working, replaced it, No luck. Next checked the water circulation pump had a faulty cord with burned insulation at the plug between line and common blades, replaced pump, No Luck.  Could all of these faults worn out the original GFI?  It is 30 years old and came with the house when new.  I read that GFIs don't like motors but the previous pump ran for two years before problems showed up.  Should I get a higher amperage GFI or replace it with the same type?


texts: How do I change light bulb in flush mounted fixture?

texts:
I just moved into a new house and don't know how to change this flush mounted light:

I've tried removing the piece at the bottom and that didn't drop the light as I would have expected. The other lights in the house seem to be Murray Feiss lights and the closest one I could find isn't the same.

The glass seems to extend up into the metal ring at the top and I am unable to rotate the glass separate from the ring. There appears to be some insulation or foam above the metal ring.

I have tried rotating the whole thing (it moves but doesn't loosen), prying at the top ring (it appears there is a screw that goes down from the ceiling plate that seems to be holding it up, but that makes no sense.


texts: Fix subflooring near wall with ventilation

texts:
We ripped up some lino on 3/4" particle board and want to replace it with tile. The tile is 3/8" and I wanted to put down 1/4" backer board. Once I tore up the floor I found a piece of tin that had been nailed down to cover this hole.

Looking for any suggestions how to fill this in appropriately so that I can lay down tile and not have to worry about it cracking the first time somebody steps here.

The joist on the left is under the wall of course, and access from below can be done, but would be a real pain.

Thoughts?


texts: A regular switch+dimmer switch combo for several lights

texts:
Thanks to recent advances in technology, screwing in a light bulb is a talent I no longer posses.
Consider this set up in the first picture.
Those are ordinary switches at location 1,2,3,4. Switch 2 is to connect to an LED light (3 Dimmable  bulbs , each 6W, ST19, GE, replacement for 60W, see details in picture 3 and 4, I got these from a big box store and it turned out online they are half price!).
I want to replace switch 2 with a dimmer. Is this safe and doable?  Are other modifications needed by code? What is the generic name of product I need to replace switch 1+2?  The current switch-plate on the outside is 4.5" by 4.5". The interior of wallbox is about 3 3/4 wide and 2 7/8 tall.
Some issues came up. Apparently dimming LED lights is a complicated issue. You have to watch out for compatibility. GE website does not list a dimmer for this dimmable bulb of theirs, while it lists it for hundreds of other bulbs!  And Lutron Website, which makes dimmers, does not recognize this bulb either! So I am wondering if I should return the bulbs?


texts: Paint peeled off with wall border sticker

texts:
Yesterday I tried removing a (childish) wall border sticker from my wall.
I used steam from a kettle to try and melt the glue, but it didn't work for some places.
Is there a simple fix for this, or do I need to paint the whole wall all over again?
Thanks!


texts: Will adding a water softener to a house with hard water loosen / dissolve existing sediment?

texts: Will adding a water softener to a house with (very) hard water loosen / dissolve existing sediments in pipes and appliances throughout the house? If so, is it anything to worry above?


texts: What are the options for mitigating problems with an asphalt garage floor

texts:
The house I purchased has a small detached garage that I use as a workshop and a place to store bikes. It is attached to a relatively long straight asphalt driveway.
My question has to do with recommendations for the floor in the garage which, unfortunately, has been surfaced with asphalt (or "tarmac"; I'm told there is a difference but I'm unclear on the distinction, though I don't think it matters in this case). I understand this was commonly done in some places, and you can see that the floor and driveway were surfaced at different times. I also ran into some previous Q&A here which was not exactly related.
The garage is somewhat finished, but it is not permanently heated (or cooled). That is, it has shop-finished walls with some insulation, but is otherwise an unheated space with a regular overhead door and open to the roof.
The main issue is that asphalt is a terrible surface for a place subjected to +25C temperatures and filled with tools (or a car up on jack stands, as was the case for the previous owner) as the floor is now a collection of variously sized holes and divots where tools and benches have sunk different amounts into the heat-softened asphalt. Bike kickstands have to be supported by little coasters as well, as even the mass of a child's bike will eventually sink into the floor
Over the years, I've placed strips of old flooring and other scraps under the legs of shelves and benches to spread the load over a greater area. This helps a lot, but it just slows the inevitable. Tools that are supposed to be portable for a small shop like table saws and the like just sink their wheels into divots over time. I've got some of those rolling onto little ramps of scrap wood as well. Either way this is inconvenient: either the wheels sink into divots, or the wheels are cranky going over even a 3/8ths of scrap plywood.
Short of hiring someone to scrape all this flooring out of garage and resurfacing with concrete, what are my options?

Would any of the epoxy style surfaces be appropriate, or could be misused to help the situation?
If I got my hands on some of that "Dri-Core" branded flooring, could I just let that sink into the floor? (i.e., I know I wouldn't have the air space under the squares, but I'm wondering if it would eventually settle into a somewhat wavy but usable surface.)
Something else I have not thought of?

I think I know the answer, but maybe this can be the canonical Q&A for this common situation.
Note that there is no intention of using this garage for a car. What to do about that is left as an exercise for the future owner of the garage.


texts: blower on Goodman Furnance/A/C is working but only slowly, barley pushes out heat or A/C

texts: Furnace and A/C work, blower fan is spinning but there is no force coming out of the vents, almost a whisper if any


texts: Does these electrical issues require an immediate repair?

texts:
We are discussing the purchase of an existing house in France (built in 1948 and in good conditions overall), where the law prescribes that each aspect of a building is inspected by a professional inspector.
He has found some issues about the electrical system:

The envelope of at least one material is missing or damaged.
The electrical installation includes at least a connection with a bare active part under voltage accessible.
The rated current (rating) of the protection against overloads and short circuits of at least one circuit is not suitable for the section corresponding conductors.
At least one protective device against overcurrent is not placed on a phase conductor.
At least one circuit (not supplying outlets) is not earthed.

And he also added:

There is no high sensitivity differential device < or equal to 30mA.
At least one receptacle is not a shutter type.
At least one socket outlet does not have a 15mm well.

My question is, are these problems serious enough to require to be fixed immediately or they are to be expected for a house that it is not new?
I am going to ask to some electrician about them, but they may have an interest in pushing me to carry out some work immediately, while I would be more than happy to postpone them to next year.


texts: Can't figure out how to replace these MR16 GU5.3 bulbs

texts:
I've replaced most of the MR16 bulbs in my house as they have a simple clip system but I can't figure these out. This bathroom has MR16 bulbs that go quite far into the ceiling and are different again.

Edit: The bulbs I have managed to replace are now LED and emit very low buzz - is there any way around this or should I just switch back to halogen


texts: Is 100-year old armored (BX) cable a safety hazard and should it be replaced?

texts:
Our house was built in 1905 and while a lot of the electric has been replaced throughout the its 115 year life, a lot of the old BX cable (likely original or close to it) is still in use; mostly for lamps, lights, general use outlets (non-heavy duty).
The panel has been upgraded with modern breakers but I am still concerned about the longterm safety and risks of this old wiring.
I am wondering if there is anything (short of replacing all the wiring) to help alleviate concerns.
Specifically, would replacing all the breakers on this old wiring with arc fault breakers be something that would significantly (or totally) avoid any problems?
Or, am I overreacting?


texts: How to hang off of wide circular hole in concrete?

texts:
I have a concrete wall with many 2-inch diameter, 1.5 inch deep, perfectly cylindrical holes on it. I’d like to hang some relatively lightweight (up to 10 lbs) decorative stuff off of these holes. What type of bolt can I use to secure an item to one of these holes?

I imagine there might be a type of bolt that expands outwards and secures itself to the walls of the cylindrical hole.


texts: Kitchen cabinets - what thickness and type of backer board should be used?

texts: When using a backer board for installation of cabinets, usually, at 34", 54"and 84", what thickness and type of backer board should be used?  The walls in this old building remodel is plaster and lathe board and the location of the studs would make using a backer board preferred. Thank you.


texts: How to correct the inclination of an old chair

texts:
I have an old easy chair, which I'm thinking to polish and use it.
The chair is made of teakwood and has nut and bolts at the joints. As it is decades old and was unused for a long time, the holes at the joints where the nuts and bolts are mated have become big making the chair to angle towards left. This nut and bolts are rusted and cannot be removed either.
 Should I replace the bolts with bigger bolts?
 How can I repair this and correct the inclination.


texts: Does a small bolt cutter exist which tensions with a wrench?

texts:
Does anyone know if there a bolt cutter which tensions using a wrench?

The closet I can find is a nut splitter, but it is not really intended for cutting...

Update

I need to cut iron rods (I would prefer to use steel rods, if I can cut them) of 5mm to 10mm in thickness. I have looked at bolt cutters, but the ones I could try out in the shop couldn't open wide enough and is just not handy for me. I am 159cm.

When I search for "hydraulic pliers" it begins to look promising, but all I can find are for cables, which I suppose are for soft metal such as copper and the blades doesn't look to completely close.

With hydraulic it just means how it works internally in the tool. A wrench is still needed for tension, which I also feel more comfortable with safety wise.


texts: Why would an MR16 LED light only work when power is cut?

texts: I had just gotten a package of LED coloured light and all of them work except one. strangely as soon as I unplug it ,it flashes for a second. what does this mean and how can I fix it?


texts: How can I safely collect and store water for extended periods of time?

texts:
Am from a place where the summer heats up to temperatures of 38 C to 44 C and water is a major problem. I thought of building a tank so that water collected from rainy season can be purified and later directed to the tank for reutilizaion in summer.

But that means that the water remains stagnant for over 4-5 months and it is not good for use when summer comes. Can somebody suggest few tips to overcome this situation.

What am trying: Preserve the rain water which can be later used for house hold work and for drinking purpose, in summer season(especially).


texts: If my regular propane tank for the house runs out, can I use a BBQ tank as a temporary fix?

texts: If my regular propane tank for the house runs out can I use a BBQ tank as a temporary fix? What will I need to do this?


texts: Saddle valve on water line running to fridge won't shut off

texts: I've shut off the water line to my fridge (so I can sell), but water still is coming out after turning off the saddle valve. I've even shut off the main water line, but water is still coming out of the line, but not as much. Can I stop the water without replacing valve or keeping main water line off??


texts: Will adding a gas line wick heat out of my house?

texts:
I am looking at running a gas line into my house.

One concern I have is that having a big metal thing with a pipe on the outside leading into my basement will wick heat out of my house. I have had a problem with my garden faucet wicking heat out of the house and it is much smaller than the gas line will be.

I could potentially lead the pipe under 2 feet of earth before bringing it into the basement.


texts:
I have a Zinsko outdoor panel with a 100 amp breaker for the garage and 125 amp breaker for the cottage. The breakers are bad, so checked into replacing them. It seems a Zinco or Connecticut electric breaker is $175 or more each as compared to any other brand that are about $50 each.

Wondering what the difference is between these breakers and inexpensive breakers, zinas I'm contemplating replacing the panel and breakers with Siemens, Square D, etc., as panel and breakers would be $200 total. And if the breakers need to be replaced again due to being near salt water ocean, cost would be 1/3 of a $175 breaker.


texts: Garden building (UK) 2.5m rule where measured?

texts:
Please see the image below. I have dug down 250mm from both fences.
In order to comply with the 2.5m height limit for a flat roof structure within 2m of a boundary.
Question: Is that 2.5m measured from the immediate boundary or the actual building itself?
I would prefer to have the building 2.75m in height.


texts: Should I remove chipped lead paint from door frames or seal and paint over?

texts:
We have discovered some green paint exposed under the top layer of white paint on our doorframes. Home lead tests came back positive so my question is...
Would it be best to remove all the layers of paint including the lead or is it safe enough to seal it and then paint over it? The chips look to be general wear and tear over the years.


texts: How can I locate and deal with mold between floors?

texts:
About 9 months ago, my wife and I replaced a toilet that had a broken wax ring.  We got some water leaking down to the ceiling on the first floor.  Now I'm having what seem to be mold symptoms -- I get runny eyes, have trouble breathing, and feel nauseous when I go into the bathroom.  (I'm pretty sensitive to mold; my wife feels nothing).

I think that we probably have mold growing from the original leak, so I've opened a small hold in the celing underneath.  What I see through the grate are some planks.  They look like they were soaked through at one point but aren't wet right now.  I'll try to get a picture and post it later.  I don't see any mold at this point.

Anyone have any tips on how to procede?  It's just a small hole right now, should I widen it?  Should I cut through the mesh to get a better look?  I'm going to hire someone to put the ceiling back on (time constraint).  I assume it'll be a lot more expensive if they have to deal the mesh  as well?

Any easy ways to tell if there's still some kind of leak going on?  Any advise greatly appreciated!  I do have a professional coming out, but he can't get here until next Wednesday and I'd like to resolve as much as I can quickly.

Here's an update:

I think I'm seeing some black wood in there (need a better flashlight!).

Assuming I am, I guess my questions change to:

Is it o.k. to kill the mold by blasting ozone through a hole in the ceiling?  I know this is generally not the recommended way to clean up mold; but I would do it by blasting for a limited time with no one in the house.  I don't think there's anything between the floors I would need to worry about damaging?
I need to figure out if there's still a leak or some kind of humidity problem.  Is it safe to assume that because the problem got worse there is?  Should I try to find the pipes and see if they're leaking?
I would still like to hire someone to fix the plaster ceiling.  Is it going to cost a huge amount extra if I cut through the mesh and they have to replace some of it?  Does area make a massive difference in price for that kind of job?  For what it's worth, I'm fine having drywall put up instead of plaster.


texts:
I wanted to take this closet out but got nervous when seeing the backed wood.

There is a floor above and the basement is below, but no support beams where the closet is.

Also the joists run with the front of the closet.

Is it safe to take out?


texts:
My wife and I are facing quite a bad situation with pests in our apartment. My wife is pregnant and I do not want to go with traditional pest control, which might be toxic.

Are there any options that I might have for non toxic pest control?

Thanks.


texts: Guys that were pouring concrete did not form beam pockets so now i have straight walls with no beam pockets. How can I possibly cut the beam pockets out now? I believe the size is 8 1/2 by 12 1/2.


texts: Running only one zone of a multi zone minisplit

texts:
I picked up a used multi zone mini-split (Yeti YEOD24000, they don't make them anymore, I think they were actually produced by Gree).

The guy I bought it from was running two zones before, I have no idea what length the linesets were.  It was disconnected by an HVAC tech so I'm assuming there is refrigerant in there.  I have the outdoor unit installed along with one of the indoor units.

My question is, can I operate the one unit by itself, without having the other unit installed (the valve is closed on the other zone)?  I will, of course, vacuum the lines first.

Again, I'm not sure of the volume of refrigerant in the system, probably less than the spec as the unit is old.


texts: How to change halogen bulbs at 18 feet height ceiling?

texts: How can I change the halogen bulbs above 18 feet high ceiling? How can I change the light bulbs around 20 feet height in tennis court?


texts: Bathtub drain has hole in it and the pop up drain is also stuck

texts:
I am wanting to know who I should call to fix a bathtub drain pipe and the pop up drain on a bathtub.
The house is a one story on a concrete slab. The clean out is between the kitchen and the bathroom. Not much room to work there. My son has used lots of drain cleaner on the drain, thinking that it was clogged, but more than likely it was the pop up that was stuck all along.
We had one company out for an estimate, but they mentioned that it might be possible that they would also have to dig up and replace the sewer line also, for an extra 3,000.00. 700.00 to fix the drain and pop-up and 3,000.00 if the sewer needed replaced also (that was just a figure he threw out, not an official estimate for the sewer).
I know that he was more than likely acting in our best interest pointing that out, but it also sent up a red flag, that he just might kick it and break it also. I really want someone who knows what they are doing and will be as gentle as possible, so as not to break that sewer line.
I need to know where to start; Would I call a plumbing company, bathtub company or a sewer company?


texts: Bathroom Sink Tailpipe and P Trap do not line up horizontally

texts: I'm installing a new vanity, everything fits fine except the sink drain is about two inches farther out from the wall than the previous sink was. How can I get some horizontal extension? The outtake pipes are all glued, nothing to unscrew there. I tried a flexible p-trap fitting but it's going from a 1 1/4 inch sink tailpipe to a 2 inch outtake pipe.


texts: How to connect 2 water tanks at different levels with one pump?

texts:
I have 2 water tanks installed in my 3 story building. 1st one  is on top of the 3rd floor, the other one is on top of 2nd. The pump is installed at Ground Floor.

Before now, the water flow was manually controlled by using Ball Valves but I want to automate it using Floating valves or whatever.
If I install floating valves on both tanks, the problem will be solved but the pump will blow up.

Kindly provide suitable solutions


texts: I have asked How to get cold air from one room to another now I am thinking, the AC will be in the bedroom but what if I set up a dehumidifier (perhaps with a pump) in the kitchen connected directly into the drain? This last week mid day we had 60-70% humidity with 30 C temperatures and 90% humidity during the night although only 20C temperature outside. From what I read, it seems portable ACs struggle in high humidity to keep the air cold, perhaps this would help? Or it's taking air from the outside anyways and this doesn't matter?


texts: Deck Posts Were Covered With Dirt, Dealing With Rot

texts:
One of the inspection notes from when I bought my home was the dirt making contact with the posts on the deck:
https://ibb.co/album/ju0n3v

I dug out the dirt and it looks like this:  https://ibb.co/album/nBumDv

As you can see in the first two pics, there is some rot at the the base of one of the posts. The other posts did not look as bad. There is one tricky portion in a few pics where you can see the wood running along the dirt.  Now that i've dug out the posts and its raining, some posts just have water pooling by them.  For now, putting the dirt back is better than standing water correct?

How bad does the rot look in that first post?
For the wood thats just running along the dirt, is the best way just to clear some space below it and remove any dirt that's touching the wood?
Should I fill in the cavities that I just created with gravel? If so, what type? I'm concerned I now have area for water to pool and damage even further.  Is there anything else I could do to the posts or fill in the surrounding area to help temporarily alleviate the issue?
Any other thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks


texts: Greenville County, New Home Electrical Grounding Requirements

texts: I have two separate ground rods in the ground for my NEW house.  The BUILDER contractor electrician used 2 separate 1/4" copper ground wires.  By Code, should have he used ONLY 1 contiguous ground wire vs two separate ground wires.  (Greenville County, SC)


texts: How do I identify the common wire when both wires are red?

texts:
I have an old house circa 1730 - much of the wiring has been in for at least 20 years.
The pull-switch in the bathroom has broken.  I have removed the casing to find two red wires and one yellow/green earth wire.
I am confused by the markings on the casing which don't tally with the modern COM/L1/L2 markings etc.  One is marked 'C' and the other is marked 'IN'.
Can anyone tell me if 'C' is likely to be the common/live supply please?
Why would 'IN' be used?
Thank you
Julie


texts: Can I build a pergola on an existing deck, without digging more footers?

texts:
A couple of years ago I built a deck onto my house. It is 32' x 14'

I used a cantilever design at 12' with 2x8" floor joists, with 2x6" decking boards. The Cantilever beam was set on 6x6" posts that are on top of 30" deep footers.

I doubled up a 2x12" for the cantilever beam by notching the 6x6" on either side, and putting the 2x12 in each notch. These posts are spaced every 8 feet.

The question I have now is how to go about building a pergola on top of part of the existing deck  - thinking something like 12x12', 8' high. The existing deck is only maybe 3 feet off the ground at the highest point. Can I build a freestanding pergola on top of the existing deck, or attached to the floor joists or something like that? I dont want to attach it to the house, and I dont really want to have to dig footers for it. The reason for this is because I had to rent a bobcat to dig the first footers because the ground is like solid shale about 3" under the top soil, and would be pretty hard to dig now that the deck is already there.


texts: What could be causing my kitchen faucet to not work?

texts: For a while our kitchen faucets (both hot and cold) were not working properly.  Sometimes we would turn one or both on and no water would come out, so then we turn it off then back on and it would work, or water would trickle out then all the sudden go fast.  Now it is getting worse and worse and this morning I couldn't get any water out at all, and I know the problem is not the aerator.  Also when I unscrew the middle thing in between them both I can see water there so I know the water is getting up the lines.  Any ideas?


texts: Improve weatherworn, stained rubber saddle on outdoor playground toy

texts:
I installed a rocking horse for our kids. (saved from a neighbour's trash).

The black rubber saddle on it looks weathered as can be seen in the photos below.

I am looking for a way to make it look better (cleaning it didn't help, it's in the rubber).
Obviously I can't use paint that can stain clothes or skin since children will sit on it.

Any ideas? I was thinking whether there is any kind of paint that gets absorbed by the rubber and can't go out (?). Or some special rubber treatment oil? Googling around myself didn't help me.


texts: How do I add a utility sink drain into a tight space?

texts:
I'm adding a laundry/utility tub to my garage and have exposed the existing plumbing behind the wall (see picture). I understand I need to have both the sink and washing machine drains vented, but I don't have a ton of space to work with. I can't really go beyond the studs on either side of the picture.

The plan is to have a stacked washer/dryer to the right, with the laundry sink on the left. I'd like to keep as much in the wall as possible, ideally with a laundry outlet box somewhere.

Is there a configuration (meeting CA code) that might work for this? A sketch would be helpful.


texts: Installing a ceiling fan into a socket with 3 wires jammed into the socket

texts:
I recently purchased a ceiling fan thinking it would be a fun DIY project but when I went to install it, I came across many problems. I have attached a photo of my ceiling fan socket on the ceiling below.

It appears as if there are 4 wires (fan only calls for 3) and not only that, but 3 of the 4 are jammed up into the left hole. If you look, the red wire is the only one free, the yellow black and grey are jammed up into the left hole. I have tried tugging on the jammed wires and they seem to budge an inch at max. I am afraid that if I pull too much I will break the wires and then I would be in a really bad position. Is there a way for me to unscrew the whole wall plate to see what is going on with the wires? I am confidant that I can install the fan once I get all the wires unstuck and have the leads exposed. I have a multimeter handy to measure voltage if necessary. I live in the U.S. and this house was built 25 or so years ago (this socket's wiring hasn't been touched since then).


texts:
We just moved into this house a month or so ago, and with every passing day it seems like these horizontal lines on our drywall in the basement are getting more and more pronounced.  When we first bought the house, I'm pretty sure these lines weren't even there or not noticeable.  We did a home inspection and this was not brought up.

Does anybody know what these lines are, and how I can fix them?  Are they an indication of some structural damage?


texts: Sealing the inside of a water well to use it as a reservoir?

texts:
We've had unusually dry weather and our well has run so low that we had to call in a water hauling company to refill it a few days ago.

The water man told me that even though he dumped in ~ 1000 gallons, a great part of it will seep out of the well to the surrounding (drier) aquifer, the same way groundwater makes its way inside the well in normal conditions.

I'm thinking I could get some kind of drinking-water-safe plastic poly sheet sown or welded together at the seam to create a long and flexible tubing.

Then dropping the "sleeve" in the well with a heavy-ish "hoola-hoop"-shaped material the diameter of the well attached at the bottom of the sleeve end to weigh it down.

Wouldn't that effectively transform the well into a usable water reservoir?

Does this sound doable?


texts: Is there a special name for a 3 foot long drill bit, and where can I buy them?

texts:
I'm looking at the websites for our local hardware stores (Rona, Totem, Home Hardware, Home Depot) for a 3 foot long drill bit, but all I'm coming up with is standard bits.

The problem is that it's probably a specialized tool and might even have a special name.

I need a drill bit long enough to punch a hole from my upstairs home theatre room into my basement server room.

Is there a special name for this bit and where might I find such a tool?


texts: 6.3 kW 240V Advantium Oven and 4.5kW 140V wall oven hard-wired to 50 amp breaker

texts:
I am replacing a 15-year old advantium oven and wall oven with updated units.

The existing ovens are hard-wired into a junction box that runs to a single 40 amp breaker.

The new Advantium is 6.3kW at 240V and the oven is 4.5kW at 240V. I have read the installation recommendations/requirements online and a 30 amp dedicated breaker is supposed to be used for the Advantium and 20 amp for the oven. That would require cutting holes in the wall to add wire to run a new breaker.

So, do I really need to do that, or can I use a 50 amp breaker. The wire is 6 gauge. They would be running at the same time (Not every day, but a few times per week)...


texts: What are the different kinds of "spackle"?

texts:
By "spackle" I mean the material used for smoothing over joints & small imperfections in drywall / sheetrock.

I have seen & heard of numerous terms for this material:

Spackle - not sure if this is a generic term or something specific
Joint compound, including...

"All purpose"
Lightweight, ultra-lightweight

Setting compound
XX minute mud (where XX is something like 5, 10, 20, 45, etc.)

This may not be a comprehensive list at all.

I'd like to know what the best-practice use of these different materials is. It seems that different types are used in different situations or in a certain order.

Also these may be USA-centric terms but I know drywall is certainly used in many parts of the world and an international answers would seem useful.

Thanks


texts: I recently stumbled upon this some PVC moulding, I actually hadn't known they were making trim out of PVC. Is it designed just for outside, or can it be used indoors too? How do you attach it to interior wall?


texts: How can I determine if my neighbor is hooked into my meter?

texts:
I have several reasons to believe somebody is stealing my power. I decided to flip all the breakers...  and behold my next door neighbor's exterior garage light turns off then comes back on but significantly dimmer. Now since I can't see the front from the back of my house where the breaker is, I had a friend help me have eyes in both places by posting up front or flipping the breaker and vice versa.  We both saw this light do the exact same thing.

The questionable part about it is that it only behaves this way concurrently to my breaker when this light is super bright, white. It doesn't even flicker when dimmed low yellow. It is NOT a motion light, and before all of this I never paid enough attention to know if the fluctuation in brightness is abnormal but I want to say I thought it was usually if not always very bright.

Now maybe we tipped the neighbor...  but the last time we  attempted this experiment, the light literally flipped itself off and went to dim seconds before we could turn the breaker.  Then it stayed dim as far as I know for the rest of that night. The very next day the power company cut my line because I haven't paid up the nearly $2,000 due now. (2 months usage with only 2 people).

My property consists of two detached houses on the same lot, separate addresses and same meter. I purchased 2 years ago, live in one, rent the other... I evicted the tenants in the front house because they couldn't pay for all of the energy I thought they were using. Then my first bill without them was more than double and has been nothing but random since.

I don't want to start a problem with my neighbor unnecessarily.  How can I determine if the power usage is due to my neighbor?


texts: What is the name for fixed metal venetian blinds?

texts:
I am about to build a canopy/enclosure for heat pump outdoor unit to protect it from strong wind and angle rain. It needs to cover the unit all around but still allow free air flow.

Ideally the walls of such an enclosure would be made of metal "venetian blind" panels that are fixed/unmovable. The panels would look like this but without the ropes:

Is there a common name for such panels under which they are available on the market?


texts: How do I install floating shelves on drywall using a drill?

texts: I am installing some some floating shelves on drywall using a drill. What's the best way to ensure the shelves are a sturdy foundation that can support stacks of heavy books? Should I use a stud finder and attach the shelf bracket directly to a wall stud? Or will the shelves be sturdier if I use wall anchors? If so, to determine the appropriate wall anchors, should I take into account the weight of the shelves and the contents I intend to store on the shelves? Finally, are butterfly or toggle anchors preferred for this project?


texts: Insulating basement concrete walls - anything missing?

texts:
Live in Zone 5b, going to shoot for 2" of XPS DOW foam board. Planning on gluing it to the concrete wall with foam board glue and bracing it while it cures.  It will run to either the top edge of concrete or to the I-Joist and then have spray foam behind it to fill the void between P.T. sill plate and the back side of the XPS foam. Taping the vertical seams.  Then going to run 1x4 (since 1x3 isn't available locally) horizontally and use ramset w/ washer or tapcon screws or a mix of both to secure the 1x4 on 24" centers. I don't like how short the ramset nails come in.  Then going to run 1x4's vertically on 16 or 24" centers that screw into the horizontal 1x4's. Then going to run wire, and drywall in those steps.  Considering cutting puzzle pieces of 1.5" XPS to place in the grid I create but that's not for sure.

What am I missing, if anything?


texts:
Just installed a new light at the bottom of the stairs ,this is connected to a 2 gang down stairs (1 feed to the light itself & 1 to outside light,upstairs it is connected to 3 gang switch (loft light upstairs light & downstairs light).

The switches were put in by a qualified sparks not my bag,the thing is if you turn downstairs light on downstairs you cannot turn it off upstairs also on position upstairs is off for the light downstairs to get the light to turn off you have to go down stairs,any help would be appreciated many thanks for reading this post.All other lights on the switches function normally.


texts:
I have an issue with my LG fridge. The fridge is 2 years old and has been working fine until this morning. When I opened the doors the lights when out. I (after some time) figured out that it had tripped the GFCI in our kitchen (which we didn't even know the two outlets were connected. I have been doing some testing and it ONLY trips the GFCI when both doors are opening simultaneously. I can not get it to trip when just one or the other door is open. BUT if I open both doors at the exact same time the GFCI trip. I ran the refrigerator to another GFCI outlet via an extension cord and it tripped that one as well. My gut it telling me there is a ground fault in the door switch, but I can't understand why it wouldn't trip when I opened that particular door. I thought the control unit that lights up, but it also lights up when only one door is open. I thought perhaps the actual lights, but those come on also when only one door is open. Does anyone have any suggestions, or other tests I could perform to narrow it down.

The model is a LFCS22520S

Thanks so much in advance!


texts: What is the most important thing to look for when buying a used trailer frame?

texts: I'm planning to build a camper. Saw some used trailer frames on craigslist. I'm concerned that I might buy a frame that I won't be able to use.


texts: New garbage disposal drain is a bit higher than stubout on wall

texts:
So I'm in a basement that is below the drain-level of the house, and there's a small kitchenette, bathroom, and thus a sump pump.
I decided to in garbage disposal unit (there wasn't one before) in order to help prevent any large bits of food waste that fall into the sink from clogging the drain or pump.
I was able to install the disposal no problem, however, now the drain is higher than the disposal!

Okay, so I think the proper fix for this is to lower the stubout by cutting the vertical part down, so I cut thru the cabinet and drywall, and see this:

But behold! It's a weird sanitary tree... WTH.!? is that even up to code? I can't really do anything with that other than cut it out of the horizontal main drain line, right? I really wanted to avoid cutting into the main line drain, but is that my only choice here? What else can I do to lower the stubout?


texts: How to determine which neutral to which power?

texts:
I have 20 Amp power run to part of my house.  The conduit that carries it runs down one of the walls of my garage.  I've cut the conduit, inserted a metal junction box, and intend on putting in a single 20 amp outlet in my garage for power tools, etc.

The conduit carried four wires: blue, yellow, gray, gray.  As it turns out, I'd thought about this as I turned off two breaker switches, but yes, the conduit is actually carrying two 20 amp circuits.  I cut the wires too quick without thinking about it though, and now find myself wondering if it matters which power is matched with which neutral.

I tested by installing the outlet with yellow, and one of the grays, and turned the breakers on (and off) one at a time.  I thought that if a lamp plugged in to the outlet turned on, I would have my match.  Problem is, I know which breaker is for yellow and blue respectively now, but the lamp works with either neutral.

Given that this is two distinct circuits, AND one of the circuits powers a room with expensive electronics, I'm paranoid.

So, does it matter which neutral is connected in pair with which power?  If so, how do I test and figure out which neutral is which?


texts: I am wiring a fan with a white/black/green wires. The cable going to the switch box to fan has an extra red wire that was twisted with the black. I capped the red and connected the matched colors to the fan. At the switch box there is a light switch that is for the vanity light and one that controlled the old fan. The new fan switch has two black wires (one for fan and one for light) and a green ground wire. It is a 5 setting dial type switch. I tried a couple of things but couldn't get it to work. The box has several white wires twisted together, red and black together. Black wires together and a couple of black jumpers that were connected to the old switch I removed. What am I doing wrong? Should I re-connect the black and red at the fan and do the same for the switch or use just the Reds???


texts: Is beeswax ok to use to keep a screw tight?

texts:
I have purchased a table and chair set, and the screws holding it together consistently come loose (from pulling and dragging I assume).  I have heard that beeswax will help hold things together, and wanted to verify before I went down the process of unscrewing all the chairs and coating with wax, and screwing back in.

Any tips?


texts: Tankless water heater - not consistent hot water output

texts:
I have a tankless with a descaler on the cold water input.
When I turn on the hot water at the faucet it takes a minute or so to get hot water. Then I'll hear some banging/knocking of the pipes.

However, if I leave the hot water running, it turns to cold water.

What could be happening?

update
It is a Noritz NR981-OD-NG. Natural gas model. We just installed the unit a few weeks ago. I just started to use it this past week.

This is our only hot water heater and is rated for 2 to 3 showers.

The hot water is on full and the cold water is off.

update 12/29/16
Could the flow of water be causing the hot water heater to not activating to heat the water? I can hear the hot water heater 'working' even when cold water is coming out of hot water faucet.  From the specs of the water heater: "Minimum Activation Flow Rate   0.5"  How can I tell/measure what the flow rate is ???

update 1/3/2017
Resolved!
The plumber and I changed out the water limiting spout cover and that did the trick. Our local gas company gave us a water savings kit and we used the water limiting spout (rated for 1.5 gpm) and that seemed to fix the problem.


texts: How should I insulate rim joist cavities behind backing blocks?

texts:
I am finishing a basement with 2" EPS on the poured walls and then doing the rim joist and sill plate with the same 2" EPS.  My question is along 2 sides of the building there are 2x8 backing blocks that are acting as a ledger for a deck and porch. Thanks for the replies.I am using 2" EPS.  There  is 1 or in some cases 2 lag bolts coming through the backing which is why its there in the first place. There were plain fiberglass batts stuffed in there before. I don't think I will be able to get the 2" up behind it.
So the question is should I just leave the batt insulation in those sections or do something else?
Thanks


texts: I am trying to figure out the source of a wet spot that forms on my covered front porch right next to the outside wall of my home pretty much every time it is raining. This started only a few weeks ago and the spot dries up within a day. Water it not dripping down from above. The wall feels dry. There is a well ventilated open space beneath the porch. The house is 100+ years old. Any suggestions of what could be the cause of this are appreciated!


texts: Can you wet vent a sink without dry vent for sink?

texts:
Is it possible to attach a sink to a wet vent setup without its own dry vent? I.E. I want to use the existing wet vent for the drainage but I don't want to run a new vent for the sink if I don't have to.
I'm assuming there's no way to do this and that instead I'll have to tie the waste into the wet vent pipe and vent off the sink and tie it to the existing vent stack for the wet vent?


texts: I have a bathroom with 2 wall switches, 1 for vanity wall light and 1 for exhaust fan. I want to replace the exhaust fan with a combination light/exhaust fan. The switch that operates the old exhaust fan only operates the light now. The switch has top and bottom screws and both are wired with black wires


texts: Size of electric wire needed to serve overhead projector and screen off 20 amp breaker

texts: I have an electric run of about 100 feet on a 20 amp breaker.  I plan to hook up an overhead projector and automatic screen which this line will be dedicated to serve.  What size of wire should I use?  I gather maybe #10 will suffice, but thought I would ask. Thanks


texts: Sizing a circulator pump in a closed loop heating system with multiple zones

texts:
I'm thinking through an install of a new combination boiler in my house, and am confused with respect to picking the correct size circulator pump.  I've found a few different references (e.g. https://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/SelectingCirculators.pdf) which lay out that you need:

A sufficiently high flow rate through the loop to heat the home, and ensure proper functioning of the air separator
A sufficiently low flow rate to avoid noise or undue strain on the pipes

As a rough example, let's say I have 3 heating zones with 3/4" copper pipe in my house.  To make it as simple as possible, let's just say each zone is identical (same head loss, etc.).  I calculate I need 12 gpm to heat the whole house with a 20F drop between supply and return water.  When all 3 zone valves are open, the flow is divided among the zones and there is a flow of 4 gpm through each, which is fine for 3/4" copper pipe.  I would expect if only one zone valve is open, that I would end up with 12 gpm through the single zone, which is way too high for the same pipe.  What am I missing?