texts: Circuit Breaker reading low voltage? (102-105 volts)

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Two months ago, the kitchen lights were flickering. I realized the kitchen lights and outlets were connected to a single breaker. I measured the voltage and it spiked from 5v - 120v intermittently. I replaced the breaker (Murray 15A single-pole #MP115) and all was well.

Three days ago, the same kitchen lights started flickering again. The breaker read at 102v - 105v which is well below the expected 120v. I flipped the breaker multiple times and measured voltage and different times of the day, but it was always consistently 102-105v. I replaced the breaker today and all is well once again.

Both breakers that were replaced did not look or smell burnt. Any idea why this happened? Could it just be the breaker I replaced two months ago was also a bad breaker? A friend suggested a current surge through the wires, but my assumption is if there was a current surge, the breaker would have tripped or burnt out instead of having a low voltage reading of 102v-105v.

Any ideas?


texts: Why am I getting nuisance trips with my GFCI breaker?

texts:
Any load trips a new GFCI breaker:

Conditions:

Brand new construction.
New 75' 4wire feed to new subpanel from a long working and reliable main subpanel.
One GFCI breaker feeding 4 outlets from new subpanel.
ANY load on any outlet trips a new GFCI or new Arc-Fault GFI breaker,including one new and one old vacuum cleaner, and even a simple 40 WATT LIGHT BULB!

None of the other 10 individually GFI fitted outlets anywhere else on the property has tripped for any reason except a water splash on the actual outlet.

I have lifted each new outlet one at a time from the GFCI breaker and tested circuits individually.
I have removed all outlet wires from the GFCI breaker and directly wired just one new outlet hanging out of the new panel.
I measured a little voltage from ground to neutral (typically this is normal on a sub-panel) so I tried bonding the neutral to ground at the new panel.
I have used a Megger on all branch and neutral wires looking for shorts, and everything measures good. I even used the Megger on the lamp and vacuums and no problems found.
I have read troubleshooting sugestions from at least 30 different sites (all say essentially the same things) and none of the typical wiring or equipment faults that could cause a false trip are present in this case, or simply do not apply.

Nothing stops the breaker from tripping as soon as any load is applied.

I am an electronic engineer and have a lot of experience as an apprentice electrician. I have brought out all my troubleshooting skills and test gear to no avail ... so this one is twisting my brain.

Should I tear into the main panel, megger the new subpanel feed wires, check the main house ground, Sink a local ground wire at the new subpanel?

Any ideas out there?


texts: Trying to replace pendant light fitting to a chandelier light

texts: Can anyone help and advise how this setup is working without a switch live as I am trying to label these so I can easily put them in connectors so I can install my chandelier but unable to do it without understanding how this works and I assume the single connectors would work or do I need the block connectors?


texts: Is exterior paint more protective than stain for protecting a shed from rain/elements?

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I'm assembling a shed (more like an outdoor office) made out of "Nordic Spruce" and want to make sure that it's protected from the elements (particularly rain and direct sunlight - no snow).

Aside from personal preference, is there any reason why I would want to use exterior paint instead of stain when protecting an outdoor shed/office? Is one type of coating clearly superior than the other in terms of reliability and waterproofing? Or is this purely just a style preference?


texts: What is this conservatory door part called?

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There is draft of cold air coming into the house from my conservatory door.
I have noticed that there is a small plastic part that is broken and has left a hole at the bottom of the door.
I don't know what this part is called.
Could someone tell me what it is called so that I can locate a replacement?

Another long shot to show where this fits.


texts: Where do I connect a C-wire to my electric boiler ( Slant/Fin Monitron Boiler )

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I'm looking to add a C-wire for my thermostat. My current thermostat has two wires, W and R. But there is another tucked in blue wire. That blue wire isn't connected to the boiler. I'm looking for help on where on the terminal can I connect this wire to make it into a C-wire.
The manual for the boiler can be found here
Thanks for reading

EDIT: NEW PICTURES:

EDIT 2: Added the labels for the Terminal and Relay

Transformer label

Relay Terminals part 1

Relay Terminals part 2
EDIT 3: Closer view on Relay


texts: About 15 years ago I did some decorative painting on my dining room table...I coated it with polycrylic..For the past five years I have noticed a stickiness on the surface.. It is really bad during the summer months..If I put anything on it, especially paper it will stick to the table..It can be washed off, but the stickiness is awful. I read somewhere that coating it with polyurethane will solve the problem but I am nervous about that.. I have used poyyurethane over acrylic many times but not over anything that would be impossible to fix if anything went wrong........please, please, any suggestions...


texts: Confused by extra wire on Legrand dimmer

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Replacing 3 dimmers and one single pole switch in a 4 gang setup with Legrand dimmers and a Single Pole switch.

Original wiring by licensed electrician.

Existing dimmers have R,B,R/W(Not connected)and ground wires.

The Legrand products are frame grounded, eliminating the ground wire for each dimmer. The Legrand dimmers have wires labeled Common (B), Neutral (W), 3-Way (R) and I-Pole (R).

I understand the wiring except for the I-Pole wire. The existing setup does not provide an extra wire going to each dimmer. What do I do, if anything, with the I-Pole wire?


texts: Is a concrete slab required to support a block wall?

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I'm starting to plan my build of a backyard grill station / pizza oven. I plan to build a concrete block wall about 4 feet high. I'll put either concrete or stone surface on top, as well as a 1600 lb brick pizza oven, so it will be supporting a fair amount of weight.

I'm a complete novice to masonry projects, so I'm learning as I go. I have two questions:

1) Part of the wall will be built on what is currently dirt in a planter area; the rest of the wall will extend onto existing pavers. Do I need to pour concrete in the planter as a foundation, level with the pavers? Or can I get away with compacting crushed gravel as a base in the planter?

2) The grade of the pavers angle slightly down, toward a drain. What's the best way to level out the base of the wall that will extend onto those pavers?

Hopefully I provided enough info to get a few suggestions.

Thanks!
David


texts: Hardware for a barn/sliding door that cantilevers into free space when open

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I've salvaged an old door from a neighbor's demolition to upgrade the door of my small laundry closet.

I thought it would be interesting to mount the door as a sliding barn door, both as a visual statement piece and to avoid constructing a new door frame/casing.

The issue is that the laundry area door/wall (cut into a solid wall cavity that originally housed a murphy bed) is only the width of the door. There is no door-sized wall to the left or right on which to slide the door when open, as is typical for barn doors.

So, when open, the door will need to slide into free space in the hallway.

Is there any hardware designed for such an application?

I can imagine, perhaps, wheels mounted under the door to support the weight. And then a rail on top to somewhat guide the movement, only from the left, but not support the door.

Vintage hardware and technology preferred, if possible, to match the door and apartment.

Any alternative suggestions are welcome as well.


texts: I have a 30 amp panel in my garage with a 2pole 30amp main breaker.  The panel is fed from another 2 pole 30 amp breaker located next to my electrical meter.   I have 3 15 amp breakers in the panel running 3 outlets and 2 sets of lights.   Can I install a 30 amp breaker in the panel to install and RV outlet?


texts:
We want to replace our natural gas stove with an electric stove. I've never worked with gas lines before, and the installers who will deliver the electric stove won't disconnect the gas stove for us. When I go to disconnect the stove, are there steps I should do in a particular order?

The gas line from the (outdoors) meter goes straight into the garage for the furnace and water heater. Right before entering the garage it tees off to another line for the kitchen, and there's a shutoff valve for that kitchen line only (I suspect the kitchen line was added about 5-6 years ago when a previous owner remodeled the kitchen; the house itself is about 30 years old in a large cookie-cutter neighborhood). The kitchen line runs around the outside of the house, and is probably about 80-100 feet long. Then there's a shutoff valve inside the kitchen where the stove connects to the gas line.

When I disconnect the stove, does it matter which order I shut off the two valves (inside; and where the kitchen line starts outside)? Should the stove be running when I start closing valves?

Once both valves are off and I disconnect the flexible hose to the stove, I'll cap the line where I disconnected the stove, too.


texts: How can I plug a hole cut in a window pane for a portable A/C unit?

texts: I just moved into a room where there is a portable A/C unit. To create a vent for the unit, a hole was cut in the glass of one of the window panes that spans about 13.5 cm. I was told that the unit came with a rubber plug to fill the hole in the window during the winter months but I haven't found it and my Googling efforts have not been successful. Any idea how I can plug this hole?


texts:
Looking for some tips on how best to install. Read a few different things but nothing that seems to fit this scenario.

Few pictures at what I am looking at are attached. Not sure weather to go over the lip with the concrete backer board or fill the gap somehow as I need something to hold the tile. Thanks for your help![![enter image description here][1]][1]

[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/o24qZ.jpg


texts: House built in 1997 a receptacle in the kitchen that the coffee brewer has always been plugged into suddenly stopped working. I checked the gfi's in that room none of them tripped, checked the other receptacles and they all work. This one receptacle is the only one not working. I took the old receptacle out it only had 2 wires and a ground. the white wire where the connection was on the screw looked like it was slightly melted. I replaced that receptacle with a new one just like the old one, attached it just like it was removed, and it still don't work. what could my problem be?


texts: Use a Steam Dryer hose for washer fill hose?

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I need to install a washer in a tight space that requires a 90 degree angle connection for water hoses. Unfortunately all my local H/W stores don't carry this item, they only have straight connections which kink the hose. I found the following part which is for a steam dryer installation but the fittings are the same (3/4" standard hose fittings). http://www.lowes.com/pd_375855-59288-98538_0__?productId=3573716

Can I use 2 of these hoses for the hot/cold washer fill hoses? My only concern is that the 90 angle piece looks a little small in diameter (smaller than a 3/4" hose) and wasn't sure if that would be a problem.


texts: Can I use this flexible tee on a 2" copper drain?

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I have a vented 2" copper drain and am looking to tee off for a adding a washing machine drain line. I saw some pictures of people using couplings to transition from copper to pvs and then adding a long turn pvc wye.

My question is: Could I use this piece instead?

If this does what I think it does, I could slip this in and transition to PVC with this singular part.


texts: Can I build a vanity, or am I in over my head?

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I need to replace a vanity.

It's a generic 3 drawer, 2 door, 36" vanity, with one detail. On the right hand side is an angled cabinet, say, 15-20 degrees back, to narrow the counter top to fit it by the toilet. At that point, there is a separate cabinet, with a pair of "roll top desk" doors, that go side to side.

The angled back, and the companion cabinet make this a piece I can't really find off the shelf.

I do not need to replace the second cabinet, pretty sure I can reuse that.

But I would like to replace the main vanity. The sink area of the current one is "funky", as sink areas can get after 20+ years.

The main vanity was assembled out of a particle board main cabinet, with some kind of white surface (melamine?), and an oak face frame, oak doors, oak drawer fronts.

I was thinking of building mine out of plywood (birch?) and oak as well.

I am not an experienced cabinet maker. I am not an experienced wood worker.

But I look at the original, the simplicity of it's construction. And I look around the internet, and the wonders of YouTube. I was considering pocket screw joinery, and, all in all, it looks pretty straight forward.

It seems to come down to whether I can cut square pieces.

I have a small table saw (you get them at a home center for $150-$200). I have access to a power chop/miter saw. I'm willing to buy the assorted jigs and clamps and what not for the pocket screw stuff.

I'm willing to "build it twice", once out of pine for the face frame, and just get twice the plywood. "Cut twice, measure once."

I have the original for a plan, I can make measurements from it, and it can act as an assembly guide. They just nailed and stapled this thing together with butt joints.

Naively, this looks doable to me. The pocket hole joinery looks simple and mechanical and sturdy. I have a fence on the saw, and I found some techniques on cutting the panels and dealing with larger pieces of plywood (always an issue for me, particularly with the small table saw). But with a circular saw, and some saw horse techniques I saw on YouTube, it seems doable.

The hardest part seems to be cutting the angles. Angles of the cabinet wall, angles of the face frame stiles, angle of the shelves inside. Table saw should do that, I worry about about getting the lines right (cut on the line? Outside the line? Inside the line? What's a good tolerance here).

The face frame will be sanded and stained.

I do not have to make the counter top, I do not have to install it. I have a contractor for that.

What I don't know is...what I don't know. What I don't know is how far over my head am I. What I don't know is do I need special blades for the saw (I have the generic one it came with)? Are there tricks for installing drawer slides? Door hinges?

I don't see a need for dados or anything like that. I was thinking of making the drawers, they would have simple panel fronts, but I may order the doors (they're shaker style -- again, these seem pretty simple to me, but they would need a dado to trim the grooves and make the tenons). I guess I would need a small dado for the bottom of the drawers. Not sure about that yet.

I also don't know how to finish the inside of the cabinet, but I can come back to that.

So, as I said, I don't know what I don't know.

Is this project folly? Part of the problem is we've spent a lot of time trying to find an off the shelf solution and can't. We've even enlisted custom cabinet makers, but they're -- not really responsive. So, I'm feeling empowered by 5 minute internet videos, power tools, and gizmos. I don't want to rush it, but...it just doesn't seem that hard.

I have visions of that bridge at the end of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" and Sir Robin running off "That's easy!".

So, just looking for the gotcha's. What am I missing. Skill and experience, obviously. Is that enough to condemn the project?


texts: Elcb keeps tripping even with all MCBs turned off

texts: So my elcb (earth leakage circuit breaker) is mysteriously turning itself off even when i have all MCBs (miniature circuit breaker) turned off. Has anyone had this kind of experience? What could be the potential problem?


texts: How do I connect two switches with two lights?

texts: How do I wire two switches and two lights such that the second light can only be turned on if the first light is on? The second switch has no effect on the first light.


texts: How can I recess an electrical outlet that protrudes from a glass mosaic tile wall?

texts: The electrical outlet in my newly installed glass mosaic tile backsplash protrudes. How can I recess it without damaging the glass tile? It is a wall switch that runs to my disposal.


texts: New Samsung Steam Dryer condensation in display

texts:
I just got my new Samsung electric washer with Steam Cycle, This One,
After using it I noticed it started to accumulate water vapor in the display in a way that makes it hard to read the numbers on it,
did any of you experience anything like that, is this normal? do you guys advise return and get another model or should I just replace it?


texts: Wiring ceiling fan/light properly on 2 different floors

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I have a room with a cathedral ceiling and a mezzanine.  On the ceiling I installed a ceiling fan with a light.  I want to be able to control "three-way style" the fan and the light from the 2 floors (ground floor and mezzanine).

Here is my setup so far:

I have normal 14x2 (+ground) wire coming in and my fan is connected with a 14x3 (+ground) wire.  I already have normal light switch and my fan controller:

I need to connect all of that so I can turn on and off the light from both floors and control the fan speed from the ground floor while being able to turn the fan on and off from the mezzanine.

How do I wire my project?

Ideally, I would want to use the fan controler I already own to save some money, however I don't know if it's three-way.  I would also prefer using only 14x2 wire as I have a big role and no 14x3 wire left (again to save a few bucks).  If those constrains are problematic, it's no big deal, I'll buy the require material.

Thanks

NEW PRECISION:  My building is a wood cabin in the middle of the forest that would use solar power, battery and inverter. All the walls are open so it's very easy to get any kind of wire through.  The building code matters but not that much, I don't want my camp to burn, but nobody will come and inspect it.  I'm looking for simple connections, which wire where, between all the switches, fan controller, fan and power source.


texts: What's the right way to clear a vent pipe?

texts:
There have been a number of answers pointing out that draining problems may be a blocked vent pipe rather than a clog in the drain per se. But I don't think there's been a clear answer on whether clearing the vent is something we can DIY (assuming we can get to it safely) or how best to do so.

Could someone give us a quick summary of what's involved and whether it might be better to make a pro deal with it...?


texts: how to calculate sub breakers from the main breaker

texts: how do I calculate exert amount of sub breakers to match a specific rated main breaker. e.g 200A main breaker to sub breakers


texts: How hot should my hot water heater vent get?

texts: My gas hot water heater's flue/vent is very hot to the touch.  Is that normal?  How hot should it get?


texts: Replaced outlet, no power to that circuit

texts:
I am not electrician. I am a DIYer and have some experience with replacing breakers, doing basic electrical work, but nothing really "advanced".

An outlet was recently cracked, and my roommate went to replace it while I wasn't home. I am told he didn't turn off the breaker, but when I came home nothing on that circuit was working. I had assumed the breaker was broken from not turning it off, so I replaced it with a new one. Still not working. I checked to make sure the new outlet was wired correctly, and it was.

It's the second outlet in the circuit, I think. It is second closest to the breaker box, so I assume it is second in the circuit.

Anyway, does anyone think I should get an electrician, or can I at least rule out some other causes, or fix this myself?


texts: how to glue the broken plastic pieces that dovetails the faucet valve

texts:
The faucet handler in my kitchen fell off. I open it found that the plastic piece that dovetails the valve was broken (see the image)

I am not sure if I can find a replacement of such a thing as I don't even know the brand/model of the faucet. To me there are 2 options though:

find a brand of glue that can put the broken two pieces together
Use heat (from a lighter) to melt the plastic so they might slightly "melt" into one piece.

I am leaning toward option#1, since #2 might deform the part. So the question is, can anyone suggest a glue that really works in this situation? Or is there any other options?

I am not sure if this of much help, but I'm attaching two more images of the faucet.


texts: How do you mount fluorescent strip lights on drywall?

texts:
How do you correctly mount and wire fluorescent strip lights to drywall?

I've seen these on drywalled walls/ceilings before but never looked at how they get installed, other than there doesn't appear to be a junction box in the drywall.

I can imagine a lot of people just have their NM wire coming through a hole in the drywall, and then bring it into a knockout on the back and screw the fixture up, but does that meet code? Do you leave/make a hole big enough for a box connector to fit through?

What's the code-compliant way to install? What do you do prior to putting up drywall?


texts: why would overflow tube fill with water after flushing

texts: After flushing while thank is filling the overflow tube fills up with water coming from the refill tube. I know it's not supposed to do that. What could cause this? Should i change the flush valve?


texts:
I am puzzled by a "double-lugging" of a CAFCI, made by Siemens on a newer residential construction. Work is done by a professional electrical contractor, in Southern California.

Does Siemens allows CAFCI to be double-lugged?


texts: Gas fireplace, “log” placement, and flame flare up

texts:
I recently bought a house that has a gas fireplace. It seems to work well (although the fan is too loud to actually use—perhaps a future DIY question!), but to the right there’s a large flame that isn’t really “hitting” the logs. It seems to me that the fire warming the ceramic logs is really what radiates the heat. The flame to the right is just shooting it’s heat right out the exhaust.

Should I open the fireplace and look at how I might adjust the placement of the logs to ensure they are over the flame? Or, is this working as intended?


texts: Internal property change planning documents

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I want to get permission to remove the door and window between the house and conservatory having just completed work adding a solid roof (to the conservatory) in order to open up the available space internally.

I'm on https://www.requestaplan.co.uk/price-list/ and can't understand how I would outline the change either on the site plan (which is where I expect i would outline the change) or location plan (i assume this is just the outline of our property).

How do you adequately outline a change inside the property on the required planning permission documents?


texts: When painting with a roller sometimes it feels uneven, like the cross-section is an oval rather than a circle. What am I doing wrong?

texts:
Sometimes when painting with a roller it feels like instead of the roller being circular in the cross-section, it is an oval.   Or perhaps the paint is loaded unevenly? I have been loading paint from a tray but dipping it in the paint and then rolling it on the raised part of the tray.

When I move the roller on the wall, I can feel the unevenness although there is little visible difference in the paint applied.

Am I doing something wrong?


texts: How to seal new PVC to old Lead pipe "toilet bend"

texts:
I have an old toilet flange which was a brass ring on a 4" lead bend that connects to the main cast iron stack. The old brass flange ring corroded and broke. I found a nice PVC fitting that fits snugly  inside the old lead bend from Oatey but now I need to find a sealant that will adhere to both the lead and the PVC. Or at least to the PVC.

I was going to use the fitting that has the mechanicaly expanding rubber gasket, but this is too long and hits a radius of the pipe before the flange itself is fully seated to the floor.


texts:
I have 3 switches that control the same light. One of them broke, so I replaced it. I can't get the light to work now. I got what looked like the same kind of switch from the store. It's a 15amp/120 Volt 4 way switch. All wiring diagrams I've looked at talk about a black wire. This only has 2 reds and 2 whites. Here's what it looks like:

I've tried lots of combinations with the red and white wires. What's not right here? Do I need a three way switch instead?


texts: I was running water into the sink while using the garbage disposal, but the water stopped coming from the faucet.  I turned the disposal off, but the water won't come back on now.


texts: Do I need an upgraded meter base when changing 100 amp service to 125?

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I live in Canada and was wondering if anyone knows if you have to change the meter base when your upgrading your panel from 100 amp to 125? I have  1/0 aluminum feeds from city with a new 1 1/4 pipe to inside with number 2 copper.   I'm just not sure if the city will complain about me leaving the 100 amp meter base or if I'm suppose to switch it to a 200 amp meter base.

The power company is going to confirm that its 1/0 aluminum at the transformer and the meter base, if so I can replace the #3 copper with #2 and upgrade to a 125A in the house. Its an underground service so to trench and replace the wires could be quite costly. I just don't want to leave the old meter base and get pinched for it. But at the same time I don't want a huge monstrosity (200A meter base) for no reason.


texts: Should the steel pipe from the gas meter into a home have foam insulation like an exposed water pipe?

texts: A neighbor put rubber foam insulation on the exposed length of steel pipe from the meter into the house . Is this a good idea ?


texts: Can you use aluminum foil around gap at floor of hot water tank then seal?

texts: Fairly big gap at floor around pipes of hot water tank.  For mice prevention I read some where you could fill gap with aluminum foil then seal.  Is this correct.  If so what kind of sealant should be used?   Need help right away.  Not sure but I think they might be chewing the insulation. Right now I’m using cotton balls soaked in Peppermint Oil, undiluted, in small glass containers (3) around the hot water tank.  I did find 1 mouse that came through a gap around an electrical outlet.  Had Peppermint Oil placed on floor under the outlet. The mouse died within 15 minutes.  Haven’t seen any more but that’s not to say there may be more.  What can I use to seal around the electrical outlet. I’ve got it covered with duct tape now.  I’m elderly and disabled and live alone with my dog.  I’ve been doing minor repairs myself but these 2 situations I have no idea what to do other than keep using Peppermint Oil which, by the way, I have sitting all around the house in strategic places such as doors, windows, under beds and furniture, behind fridge washer dryer stove, cabinets drawers, shelves high and low, all corners and especially under kitchen and bathroom plumbing. I’m a little paranoid about ants and other creepy crawlers as well as mice.


texts: Is there a danger of back flow from water heater while replacing a saddle valve?

texts:
We have a leaky saddle valve feeding our humidifier.  We eventually want to get a real valve installed, but for now are looking for a cheap near-term solution.

Here is my concern: the original valve was installed on the cold water line, but was put in very close to the water heater input (about 8" above it).  If I turn off the cold water supply and remove this valve, is there any chance that i will get water spraying back at me from the water heater?  Are there any sure ways to prevent this?  Just looking to do an easy DIY repair without getting scalded.


texts: How do I re-wire a ceiling-fan to reverse its direction?

texts:
One of the ceiling fans at home was spinning in the opposite direction (clock-wise) and so was sucking up the air rather than blowing it. I live in a hot climate so we always have the fans spinning in the counter-clockwise direction all year round. I need some guidance on safely correcting the direction of this fan. It's been 8 yrs since I last studied Electrical maintenance and honestly do not recall the wiring diagram.. :)

Below is an image of the wiring of another fan that correctly spins in the counter-clockwise direction:

Observations:

Input power supply: Yellow wires to the right
Capacitor: White wires on the left
Black: ?, Red: ?, Blue: ?

Below is the wiring of the fan that spins in the clockwise direction:

a. Observations:

Input power supply: Indicated on the right
Capacitor: White wires on the left
Black: ?, Red: ?, Yellow: ?

[UPDATE]
b. Observations:

Swapped the red with Yellow.
Fan remains stationary.
Fan will start to move at constant speed in the direction I apply force in.

Product: Crompton Greaves Ceiling Fan - 220/240 V 50 Hz A.C.. SWEEP 1200mm (No lamp).
Wiring diagram: Could not locate the same. Kindly share any wiring diagrams that could help me better understand the same, Thanks..!
Kindly note: This is an Indian fan and the color codes are different from the US standard.
Color Codes: Phase: Red/Yellow/Blue, Neutral: Black, Ground: Green.
I tried checking with the manufacturer on this, but haven't received a response.. Not all single phase AC motors can reverse direction. [1][2]
Latest updates: We finally got a new fan and the old one was sold to scrap.. So while I am no longer able to test your solutions, I definitely look forward to technical explanation of the problem and possible solution(s). Thanks!


texts:
The eavestroughs (rain gutters) on this house drain into a 4" PVC pipe system, I suspected there was a leak somewhere because of mold inside at that corner of the house.

I dug down a couple of feet to uncover the pipe, and put a garden hose to it.  the ground was soon saturated with water. There is no good reason for such a system to be leaking, right ?


texts: When does a splitting floor joist become a problem?

texts:
We recently moved to the US Northeast and bought a 6 year old, two level plus basement house.  I've been finishing the basement and have noticed several floor joists are splitting.  I come from a country where this would not look good, but where there are also very few basements and no really cold, dry winters.
I'm inclined to write off some of the joist splits due to the climate, but a few are significantly split, offset, and/or split almost the length of the joist (see images). The image with the big offset shows one that has noticeably worsened during the winter months, and I'm reasonably sure the bangs we've heard have been the joists (not just normal thermal expansion/contraction).

My questions are:
When do these become a problem that needs attention?
Is this normal for the area, or did the builder cheap out on his timber?
If this is not normal and a problem, what approach would you take to fixing it; would you start by calling the builder and giving him an opportunity to get it right? (after 6 years...)
Would appreciate any help you can offer.  Never had to deal with this type of issue.
Thanks.


texts: What is this electrical box with a button?

texts:
I have a small electrical box with a small button on it in the front of my house.  I traced the wire as much as I could.  One end is this box with a button.  It leads to the front of my detached garage.  Then the wire goes to the back of my garage (toward the back of the house), where it appears to go through drywall (I'm not sure where it goes from there).

Does anyone have any what this might be?  I considered pressing the button, but I have no idea what it is and was hoping someone might know!

Image attached...

Thanks in advance!


texts: Crawlspace Insulation Upside Down Replacement

texts:
I have an upcoming project and would appreciate any input. My crawlspace in Maryland had insulation installed upside down (face paper towards ground) and is now rotted/mildewed/falling from the ceiling. Here is the plan I have to replace it all:

Day 1: rent air scrubber. Remove old insulation. Wipe down surfaces with concrobium. Dry vac with HEPA filter
Day 2: Fog crawlspace with concrobium. Replace old entryway
Day 3: Install new insulation.
Day 4: Install new vapor barrier, old one is torn and very thin.

I am also debating whether to replace the vents with automatic ones or to seal them up and pay an electrician to install a dehumidifier.


texts: Best angle to tilt a through-window air conditioner?

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My last through-window air conditioner started smelling moldy after a year or two. Improper drainage, I guess? The instructions always say to install the air conditioner at a "slight tilt" so the water that collects will drain out the back.

But how much tilt is the right amount? My last air conditioner was tilted 2 degrees, according to a clinometer app for my phone, and it still got moldy. Should it have been 4? 5? 6?


texts:
While moving, I scratched the vinyl flooring. It is a "wood" laminate flooring, where the planks support material with a wood print veneer (as mentioned in Can/Should I seal laminate "wood" flooring?). As far as I have been told the flooring is design "Life 710670003" by https://www.project-floors.com.

The scratch is running perpendicular to the grain. It measures about 1 metre in length and about 1.5 millimetres in with. I have no idea how to measure the exact depth. Apart from a few millimetres, the veneer is not ripped apart, only pushed into the base material.
The landlord is not amused since the scratch is located in the middle of the room, it is well visible and it can be felt when walked on. I want to try to fix the floor visually and structurally as much as possible. At minimum, I would like to level it out to avoid dirt accumulation.

Ideally, one would replace the affected planks. However, there are no spares available. As it turned out, this flooring has been discontinued altogether. Hence I cannot purchase replacements either. Divot replacements (like discussed in
Divot repair in laminate flooring) are out of the question, too.

The producer Project Floors does not provide the technical details of this particular flooring (due to discontinuation, probably). For this reason, I do not know with what materials I am dealing with exactly.

Most flooring patching methods are geared towards flat-colour PVC and are not applicable to my case. There are repair methods involving fillers and/or hard wax, but they seem to apply exclusively to hardwood flooring.

Is there anything I can try or is this 'bout a scratch, but ultimately a lost cause?


texts: What's the best method of making a [chalk] board sturdy?

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I bought a chalk board and arrived today. It is a great surface, but on a 1/8 inch Masonite board. I need to attach this to a wall, but it is very flimsy and writing on it is terrible as it wobbles.
I need to add something behind it. Two options-
1. Glue it to plywood. Problem here is trying to get the plywood the same size as the chalkboard (i'm not a carpenter).
2. Glue some wood panels at the back - one at the top, middle and bottom and two in between at the edges. This is easier as I can cut the wood and clamp/glue to panels on the back.

Any other ideas (not framing) and would glue/clamp with pine and masonite  stick?


texts: What's the best way to terminate plastic water supply pipe?

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I am removing a bathroom fixture that was attached to this cold water supply line:

I need to plug the pipe so it doesn't spray water when I turn it back on. Previously it had this fitting:

I tried this cap, but it leaked quite a bit.

I searched through many fittings at the hardware store, and finally ended up with this valve:

which worked (except when I put it on backwards, then it squirted water out, ack!).

It took 4 trips to the hardware store to arrive at this solution, and it's not really ideal, since I never want to turn it on. What would an ace plumber have done instead?


texts: What is causing my AC to trip the breaker after running for about an hour?

texts: After I turn on my ac, about an hour or two later it will make  a noise and trip the breaker. Could this be a short in my fan motor? The fan does run.


texts: Are Cat6a keystone jacks suitable for Cat7 Ethernet cabling?

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We have already purchased 500ft Cat7 Ethernet cable. We wanted the high-quality cable running through our walls to be future-proof and to ensure we get Cat7 speeds (at least in the future). However, we seem to be having trouble finding Cat7 keystone jacks, while Cat7 cable and Cat6a keystone jacks are common.

I have also found sellers that say Cat6a keystones are suitable for Cat7.

Are they? Is this what we've been missing, that we're supposed to use Cat6a keystones with Cat7 cabling? Will this reduce the signal at all? Can we still get full Cat7 speeds this way?

Edit: Do you think I would experience any issues using Cat7 cables with Cat6a RJ45 connectors, for 10 Gbps speeds?


texts: How can I finish the edge of a mirrored wall?

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I am having a full wall in my foyer covered with mirror, and I am curious to know how to finish the end of a fully mirrored wall?  The wall ends at a corner that leads into the sitting room. So from the sitting room, the edge of the mirror will be visible. I hope this makes sense?

In other words the foyer wall to the right of the entrance wall will be mirrored.  That wall is about 8 feet long.  When the wall ends, you turn a corner to enter the sitting room.  It is that corner that I am referring to; I want to be sure that the edge of mirror is finished correctly and also that visually it looks good from the sitting room.


texts: How crucial is a filter for your tankless water heater?

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A plumber gave me a quote recently and told me that the tankless heater needs a water filter. This will extend the life of the tankless.

How crucial is this? We do not have soft water here in Los Angeles.
Does this factor into the decision of whether or not to install a filter?


texts: Help identify this electric clothes dryer part from an Asko T701 dryer?

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I just replaced the drum rollers on my Asko T701 electric clothes dryer. As I was removing the front frame to access the rollers, this metal part fell out (the Sharpie is just there for scale):

I don't know what it is. I put the dryer back together and it seems to run fine, but obviously I'd like to figure out what this part is and where to reinstall it. I didn't see exactly where it fell from but it fell into the dryer drum, so I'm figuring it came from the top edge of the front panel (somewhere around this diamond-shaped hole or below it):

It has no markings or text of any kind on it, and no holes for screws or anything. It doesn't appear in any of the exploded diagrams or parts lists for this dryer that I've been able to find:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Asko-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-T701/3365/0151200/P0907020/00005

http://www.greatplainsapplianceparts.com/order/Parts%20Manuals/Asko/ASKO-Dryer/T701%20(TD11A)%20WH%20REV.A.pdf

I also have the service manual for this model and this piece isn't mentioned in the section on removing the front panel (or anywhere else in the manual, as far as I can tell).


texts: What is the purpose of this black felt on end of oven conduit?

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I bought an oven which I am installing (reference this post for details) and I'm confused by the black wrap at the end of the conduit shown in the picture below.

Is the wrap there just to prevent chafing during shipment/storage, and is it supposed to be removed?  It's somewhat long and takes up space in the junction box, so I'd prefer to remove it, but not sure if I can do so safely.

Is the conduit clamp supposed to clamp onto the felt or directly onto the conduit itself?

The conduit is flexible, if that matters.

It's a tough felt-like material with a sticky side.  I'm not sure what it's called.


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My entrance is below photo and it is very tight/small space inside. I would love to expand it "out" to make inside area larger.

My questions are:

Do I frame all the way to the top (hitting the roof) and make a box above the door like so?

a. If that is the case, how far can I go to ensure some roof overhang?

b. Is it possible to remove the old wall? What do I look for?

Or should I make a small roof sloping down like below (not touching anything on top):

Also look like in either case, I have to pour more concrete foundation on both side of the top stair, right?

But please advise if I should stay away from this idea (and why). Thanks.


texts: Does sand help with drainage or marshy lawns around a house?

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We moved into our home nine months ago, and slowly the situation of runoff from other properties has led to a condition where the back yard is very marshy-like (your shoes would get muddy and it's a little stinky), up to 36-48 hours after the last rain. With rain every two to five days, I'm concerned with having great conditions for mosquito beds, not to mention damage to my homes foundation.

The marshy-like areas are directly against the house in the back that stretches half the foundation, along with the side of the house for a half the house, but isn't necessarily against the foundation. We had asked the drainage issue before taking ownership, but was told it wouldn't be an issue and it was designed to drain properly.

Anyway, this leads to my question. My home warranty/builder has told me they will do: "a light sanding of the area" and that "with the nearly daily rains the area is receiving patience is the key as we are unable to obtain the best results with the soggy conditions.  Once this is completed you will be responsible for any further maintenance and corrections in the future." Will this help fix the issue? How much sand should I expect to need to put down?


texts: I want to pour a concrete basin for a bird bath. First I thought to use hydraulic cement so it is waterproof. But this stuff sets really fast and seems to be only for patching. So I bought a concrete sealer from Home depot: Silkagard ProSelect Natural Look Clear Sealer. Is it safe to use for drinking water or will it outgas or release otherwise some toxic substances? I don't want to harm the birds.


texts: I am installing electric floor heat in my bathroom. It will be on a dedicated 120V/20amp circuit. The breaker has a GFCI. I am using same manufacturer for thermostat as floor heat. The thermostat is a 120 Volt stat that is connected to the line and load. . The thermostat includes a integral GFCI. The thermostat's GFCI has a end-of-life feature to isolate the heating cable load. Question: Should I keep the system with 2 GFCI's or should I replace the breaker GFCI with a regular breaker? I can't disable the thermostats GFCI.


texts: Should I convert my 4-stroke engines from regular gas to propane

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I am planning on converting my portable-generator/lawn-mower/snow-blower from gas to propane. This was my analysis; could you please comment on the facts, analysis & conclusion? Am I on the right track?

Question: Are my facts correct?

Gas: BTU/gallon: 114,000 $/gallon: $3.25
Weight: 6 pounds/gallon
Propane:
BTU/gallon: 91,502
$/gallon: $2.93
Weight: 4.2 pounds/gallon

Question: Is my analysis correct?

Gas is more cost effective (35K BTUs/$ for gas vs.31K BTUs/$ for Propane)
Propane is eco-friendly (societal factor)
Propane does not destroy the engine (maintenance cost)
Propane can be stored for a longer time without deterioration (cost of waste)
Propane is lighter to transport

Is my conclusion correct?

Gas is 12% cost effective; however, propane compensates for lower energy/$ due to other practical factors; hence gas-to-propane conversion is worthwhile.


texts: Building a Work Area in the Basement - Requesting Feedback

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I am a new homeowner of about 2 months now. I have not done much in the way of home repair before now, but I do find that I am quite capable so far. My largest project so far was the re-tiling of my kitchen backsplash.

I am telling you this you know where I stand and my level of experience. As time goes on I find myself taking on projects that require a good "Man Space" as I call it. Someplace to store my tools, cut sheetrock, etc.. This is the area I am working with to accomplish that. Pardon the weird perspective from the panaramic photo. As you can see from the tool/paint collection I've built over 8 weeks, I am need of something to better organize and work.

I've commandeered a full wall of my Fiancee's Laundry room, as well as some of the wall next to the staircase. This is the layout I have in my head (again, please excuse my horrible art skills).

As you can see, this will consist of a variety of surfaces and storage areas. I plan to use standard Kitchen Cabinets to support the work bench surface. This will provide easy-out-of-the-box stability and storage. The back wall will be lined with peg board and/or storage bins. The left wall will consist of shelving I'm sure this will all need to be custom-cut to fit the area under staircase since it obviously gets smaller as you go up. In addition, that area has the back-side of an in-the-wall book-case as well as its support structure to contend with. I'm also considering leaving the paint cans pretty much where they are and just have an access door.

My question in this - since I am inexperienced in actual carpentry at all, my skill set pretty much consists of measuring, cutting, and screwing things together. What advise would you give me on the construction of this? Are the Cabinets a bad idea? Do you think there is a better / more efficient layout I could utilize? What type of lighting would you recommend? Really, I am just looking for any constructive feedback before I partake on this project.

Many thanks!


texts: Wanting to make existing 2-wire 220V outlet a 4-wire one

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(Located in the USA)
I've inherited a 220V (or 240V?) circuit which is just capped off inside a junction box.  It's hooked up to a 30A breaker, and seems fine, except that it's only a 3-wire run--no ground.  I'd like to make it usable for running some 220V computer equipment, but I need a ground to do so.

I'm about 10' from the breaker box, inside a washer/dryer closet, but the wire was pulled through the walls.  Should I run conduit with a ground wire in it from the nearby breaker box and pull it into the junction box with the other three wires?  Suggestions?

I just want to do this correctly, and safely the first time!

Well, now it appears I remembered incorrectly...there are only TWO wires!  What were they thinking when they did this?  More importantly, what should I do to safely fix this for me and anyone who might later open this up to work on it?


texts: Is it normal for an exhaust fan cover to hang below the finished ceiling?

texts: I live in an apt complex and have asked my live-in manager to please fix the bathroom fan. He tells me that there is "nothing to fix". Can someone please tell me if this is true?


texts: How to remove over stain from finished woodwork on my stairs

texts: We recently had our wood floors refinished and the floor guys carelessly got the water based stain on my wood casework. The casework is stained and finished with a glossy poly of some kind. I can't seem to get the stain off with acetone (does nothing)I had only planned to touch up my existing woodwork but now fear I may need to completely refinish it.


texts: Small compressor and mini hvlp spray gun vs powered spray gun

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I am starting a DIY project of painting my cycle frame. After experimenting with spray cans I realised that it's very expensive and also pressure from can is not consistent.
Due to limited budget I can only buy small compressor and mini hvlp gun matching the compressosr's CFM. Or I can buy powered spray gun.
I want help in understanding if there are benefits of going with compressor and gun. Powered spray gun will be compact as compared to compressor. Also powered spray will be cheaper.
Will there be difference in paint job quality between compressor+gun VS powered spray gun.
In future I might paint some other small objects, I don't think I will ever take up painting a car or or anything.  Mainly because I done have a car.
Compressor:
Product Type : Air compressor
Brand : Imported
Metal : Cast Iron
Auto Cut : Yes
Cylinder : Single
Motor Type : Single Phase AC
Manometer : Yes
Power : 2 HP
Pressure : 7 Bar
Tank Capacity : 24 Litre
Dimensions : 580 x 270 x 600 mm
Air Delivery (CFM) : 110 lpm
Weight : 25 Kg
Gun:
Model No. : ASG1061
Product Type : Spray Gun
Brand : Ingco
Standard nozzle : 1.4mm
Pattern width : 180-250mm
Paint capacity : 600ml
Optional nozzle : 1.3-2.5mm
Operating pressure : 2-3.5bar
Air cons : 4.2-7.1cfm(119-200l/min)
Powered spray gun:
Model No. : SPG3508
Product Type : Spray Gun
Brand : Ingco
Input Power : 450 W
Voltage : 220 - 240 V ~ 50 / 60 Hz
Spraying Pressure : 0.1 - 0.2 Bar
Max. Viscosity : 50 DIN-s
Max. Flow : 380 ml / min
Container Capacity : 800 ml


texts: Frigidaire Fridge Freezing Food Fresh Side

texts: Frigidaire Refrigerator FRS23KF6CW1 Fresh food side set at factory setting and never moved is now freezing food and bev. Temp consistently dropping to 27 degrees even after 24 hour adjustment period. Freezer side holding steady at 14 degrees. Side wall damper widow blowing cold air constantly and only stopping when fresh control shut off. Removed all food to inspect for blocked vents and no help. Any thoughts out there for advice before purchasing parts that may not be the problem? Thanks


texts: Hooking a wifi thermostat to a 2 wire boiler

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I'm in the process of figuring out how to swap my existing thermostat for a new WiFi thermostat.  Naturally it's connected to my home's boiler by 2 really old cloth wrapped wires.  Examening the wires, it does look like I it should be feasible to run a new wire which also hooks into the C screw on my boilers transformer, but I'm the sort who likes to act cautiously on this sort of thing of course, so I was hoping someone could give me a quick yes/no on my reasoning, as well as see if there's anything I missed.

Anyways, on the technical side, the furnace I'm hooking the thermostat too is a Weil-McLain boiler (Link https://www.weil-mclain.com/products/eg-gas-boiler), and the transformer in it I'm looking to tie into is this one here: (http://www.supplyhouse.com/Weil-Mclain-510-312-166-Transformer-120-24V).  There's curently a wire running off the C connection on the transformer, it looks like to the water fill unit, does that raise any concerns?
Anyways, thanks for any advice.


texts: Is a porch temporarily roofed with just tar paper likely to be damaged by rain?

texts: General Contractor has been hired to build a wrap around porch onto our house. He has most of the construction completed (decking, columns, soffits, etc) but still has not shingled the roof.  It’s just plywood and tar paper. We have had lots of rain. Will this be a problem in the future and why has he not shingled it yet?


texts: Flushing upstairs clears a stopped toilet downstairs

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We have a two story home. When flushed, a downstairs toilet stopped and nearly overflowed, and water backed up into a tub (also downstairs). Plunging didn’t accomplish anything. Upstairs I flushed a toilet, just as a test.  It flushed fine, and the toilet and tub downstairs drained at the same time. Everything appears to be working correctly now.

We think this also happened a week ago but it is not a regular occurrence. We’ve never noticed any bubbling downstairs when things are run or flushed upstairs.

We had our sewer line snaked and camera about a month ago. It is unlikely we have roots or other blockages in the sewer line but it’s possble, I suppose.

Any thoughts on why this could happen?


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I'm wondering what is the best way to fix this hole in my wall.
It's a plasterboard wall in a UK house.

The previous owner of the house made a hold in the wall to run some cables for security cameras through and appears to have just made a hole, pushed the cables through, and then filled in the hole with filler of some kind.

A few days ago I moved the wire slightly and the entire section that was filled fell out. It looks like the filler was in the hole but not actually attached to anything other than the wires than ran through it, and then painted over.

(The other visible wire is his "high quality" internet extension wire :P )

Ok, so I want to do a better job to fill the hole than he did.
The hole goes back a few cm into open space and is about 4cm by maybe 2cm. I think that just filling it with standard filler like he tried isn't going to work well.

What is the proper way to fix something like this? Is there something that will work to fill the hole properly? AS you can tell I know little about this :)

Thanks!


texts: Main burner for gas fireplace won't stay lit (pilot light is fine)

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Yesterday I got our gas fireplace insert started up for the first time this season. Everything worked fine all day, but then this morning about 30 seconds after flipping the switch to turn on the main burner, it turned itself off. The pilot light was still lit, but the main burner was off. I flipped the switch back to off for a second, and then back on, and the same thing happened. Burner came on for 20 to 30 seconds, then turned off.

After some Internet research, I tried using a multimeter to test the voltage from the thermopile. The voltage without the burner lit was about 520mV. After turning the burner on, it immediately dropped to probably 420mV, and then very slowly continued dropping to under 200mV. Around that time, the burner turned off.

I opened up the fireplace, and used a wire brush to clean the thermopile as best I could. I also noticed that most of the holes in the front half of the burner were partially blocked, or completely clogged with dust or debris, so I used a toothpick to make sure every hole was clear.

After putting everything back together and re-lighting the pilot, the thermopile voltage was about 610mV, but when I turned the main burner back on, the same thing happened. The voltage dropped to mid-400s, then slowly crawled down to mid-100s, and then the burner turned off. Ever since then, the voltage with the burner off is 550mV.

I also tried shorting the thermostat connections, and the burner turned on fine.

Before this afternoon, I had never heard of a thermopile, so I'm really not sure what to try next.

UPDATE 1: See comments for discussion with @ThreePhaseEel and @Tyson that got me this far...

Well, it's working at the moment. I tested the voltage on the switch (TH and TH/TP terminals). Switched off was 500mV. Switched on was 2mV. Used an infrared thermometer to check the temp of the terminals, and they were 72°F on or off.

The only thing I changed was that I pulled the unit out a few inches to see better, vacuumed out a bunch of dust/hair/webs, and moved wires around to see around them. While it was pulled out, I started it and it ran fine until I turned it off to put everything back together. Then I turned it on and it had the original problem.

Re-tested everything and ended up with same numbers. Then I tried starting it up again, and it's been fine ever since (hour or so). The thermopile voltage hovers around 140mV while everything is running, the switch is still at 2mV, and the terminals are still 72°F.

I'll update again if anything changes. I'm hoping that cleaning everything out somehow helped fix the problem.


texts: I have a Stihl 260 chainsaw, with a 3/8" chain and a 20" bar. What criteria do I need to apply when picking a second chainsaw chain?


texts:
I'm running 2 100 amp 110 lines 35 yards from my well house main to a sub panel in my garage.  Do I need to run a ground wire and a neutral wire or can I just run one of them from the sub panel to a ground rod?
If I run the ground to a grounding rod, do I disconnect the green screw in the sub panel?


texts: Can an ordinary power drill drill through steel?

texts: It's my dad's drill and it's a Bosch. I'm not sure about the model no. etc because the box is missing together with the manual. He's been using it to drill holes in wood to install doors and also walls to hang pictures. I'm not sure if it can drill through steel though provided that if I'm using a drill bit suitable for that purpose (I'm not sure if there's drill bit to drill steel also). The steel that I want to drill is not stainless steel. It's just a 2cm x 6cm rectangle hollow bar and the thickness of the steel is somewhat close to the thickness of a normal kitchen knife (the chef knife as people usually said. not those machete / butcher knife thickness). It's quite rusty too. So can it be done?


texts: Does number on the bottom of a shower faucet cartridge describe compatibility?

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If I can find a replacement shower faucet cartridge that matches the Kerox PB40R model number and matches in appearance, would it be a safe fit?
The bottom of the cartridge that I need to replace has two chambers each marked with a "7".

The replacements I'm finding online have a different numbers on them, in this case "4" and I'm not sure if the 7 vs 4 is important


texts: Optimal Breaker Configuration for Split Phase Mains Power

texts:
Originally asked here on EE SE

First, let me preface this by saying this is entirely theoretical. I don't plan to install anything myself, and I'll contract a licensed electrician to do any of this work, so please don't feel the need to post warnings, disclaimers, or otherwise explain the dangers of mains electricity.

Given that, I have learned that my utility company provides 240V to the meter at my house. There is a breaker box immediately downstream of the meter, and it services 100A at 120V (so it becomes split-phase at some point). After a bit of conduit, I have my current breaker panel, with its circuits going off into the house.

Assuming that I am correct in that there is a center-tapped transformer stepping the meter voltage down to 120V from 240V and, therefore, provides two phases (we'll call them "Phase 1" and "Phase 2"), this means I have 240V, Phase 1 120V, and Phase 2 120V available to me, even though I am only using Phase 1 120V.

I want to have three total breaker panels, one for each Phase 1 and 2, and 240V, but there is also that 100A breaker immediately following the meter to deal with.

My question is, what is the best way (schematically) to install 300A (I can get up to 320 from the meter without an upgrade) of breaker to protect all three circuits?

My current thought is that I would need a 300A breaker on the Phase 1 hot wire and a 300A on the Phase 2 hot wire. Is this correct, or is there a simpler/better way to arrange this?


texts: I have just removed wallpaper and popcorn from plaster walls. I am ready to paint. I have purchased Behr paint and primer in one. Do I prime separately before painting with that? I can only assume the walls are from 1950 when the house was built.


texts: Limestone versus granite for yard edging

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I am looking at adding some stone edging to my yard and possibly building some steps. The stone seller advised me against limestone, as he said it would stain and deteriorate rapidly compared to granite.

Seeing as how the pyramids are still standing after 4000 years and they are made of limestone I don't really understand this.

Is there some concrete reason to prefer granite?


texts:
This appeared in our home beneath a window, on top of a baseboard, over the last two days. Any idea what this could be? Would we need an exterminator? We are new homeowners in the Northeast. Thanks!

Here is another photo:

Here is a photo of a nearby windowsill:


texts: switched socket and unswitched light fixture to switched light fixture and unswitched outlet

texts:
In several rooms I have a wall switch near the door that switches an outlet, and a light/fan fixture operated by a pull chain. I would like to be able to switch the light fixture from the door switch, and have the outlet be always on.
What I want to do is the following:
Wire from the fixture to the existing switch (external to the wall, under a wire tunnel to minimize the work).
At the switch, directly connect the wires from the socket to each other so the circuit is always closed.
Is this safe? Is there any reason not to do it this way?


texts: Cutting a 2" hole through a load-bearing 2x4 stud for a washing machine drain?

texts:
Some previous owner of our house moved the washer/dryer to the second floor, but made some pretty dubious decisions when doing so:

I'm preparing to patch the paster, skim-coat, and paint, so I need to deal with this mess first. It looks like they ran the pipes up without realizing that there wasn't a full stud bay (the exposed portion is only 6"), and rather than changing anything they decided to run everything outside the wall. The supply lines are coming up through the finished floor(!).

The one thing that has me stymied is moving the drain pipe for the washer. (There is a vent for the p-trap along the left side of the wall). Ideally, I could turn the drain, go straight through the stud, and recess everything in the full-size stud bay to the right. To do that, I would be cutting a hole for a 2" drain pipe into a 2x4, which is >40% (code):

  Studs located in exterior walls or bearing partitions drilled over 40 percent and up to 60 percent shall also be doubled with no more than two successive doubled studs bored.
  Exception: Use of approved stud shoes is permitted when they are installed in accordance with the manufacturer’ s recommendations

Should I take this to mean that I can use something like this stud shoe, and then it's fine to drill a hole that large?

My plan is:

|   6"    |   |    16"           |
|         |   |                  |
|         | o | <- electric      |
|         |   |                  |
|         |o o| <- water supply  |
|         |   |                  |
|  p trap |-O-| <- drain w/ shoe |
|         |   |                  |

This is an exterior wall on the second floor supporting a roof and a finished attic. Is it really necessary to sister a stud, or will a shoe suffice?


texts: Should cement be placed under concrete slabs for driveways or is sand enough?

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I am about to get my driveway full slabbed using normal concrete slabs like below (i will be using rectangle slabs as opposed to square).

The builders that came to give me an estimate said it would be best if cement was placed under the slabs so they stay together.  I was just wondering if this was common practice?  Is it better to have concrete as opposed to just sand or even soil?


texts: 24" o,c, 2x4 for load bearing wall and rafters for workshed?

texts:
I'm making a small 12x16ft workshed. I want to go 24" o.c. on the walls and rafters (rafters may be 2x6, or 2x4 with supporting members), both for cost saving, and because it will create less thermal bridges in the wall. Due to what's available here, I will be using 7/16 OSB sheathing for the walls and roof, which should work with the longer spacing. I can also go 5/8 drywall on the ceiling to prevent sagging.

However, I can't seem to find much information on 2x4 24 o.c. load bearing walls. Not sure how common they are. Is there any issues with these types of walls?


texts: What is the Correct Hot Water Expansion Tank Pressure

texts:
What is the correct pressure for the pre-charge on a domestic hot water expansion tank?  I have read in several places that it should be pressurized for the incoming water pressure.  This would involve getting a pressure measurement of the building water service, and pumping the tank up to that pressure accordingly.  Alternatively, I have also read in a few places about 12 PSI and it being the fill pressure for a 2 story house.  Why would the fill pressure not be the incoming water service pressure?

From http://diy.blogoverflow.com/2013/02/handling-the-pressure-with-expansion-tanks/

  Check the system pressure

  At this point you’ll want to close the faucet you opened, and open the
  shutoff valves (make sure you cap the extension pipe, or close the
  valve on the extension, or you’ll have water everywhere). Turn on all
  the hot water fixtures in the house until water flows normally (no
  sputtering), to insure the system is filled and at full pressure.
  Check for, and repair leaks.

  Attach a pressure gauge to any part of your plumbing system. Some
  gauges contain threads for a garden faucet, or you can attach one to
  the extension where the expansion tank will be installed. Once the
  gauge is attached, open the valve to get a reading on the gauge. Note
  the pressure. If the pressure is not within the normal range of 40 –
  80 psi, you’ll have to take steps to correct it (which is not covered
  in this article).

  Pre-pressurize the tank

  Most expansion tanks come pressurized to 12 – 40 psi, but before you
  install the tank you have to match the system pressure. Start by
  removing the protective cover from the air valve on the tank. Use a
  tire gauge to check the pressure. Use a bicycle pump, or compressor,
  to fill the tank to match the system pressure you noted earlier.

From Bell & Gossett FHD501A (http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/fhd-501a.pdf):

  Most residential diaphragm tanks are pre-charged to 12 psi to match the
  fill-pressure needs of a typical two-story house. When the feed-water pressure
  reaches 12 psi, the system will be filled to the top floor and will be under several
  pounds of pressure. At that point, no more water will enter the system because
  the pressures on both sides of the diaphragm will be equal. It pays to check the air
  pressure in a diaphragm tank before you install it, because some of the air may
  have escaped during shipment and storage.

It would seem to me that if you simply went with the 12 psi and your service pressure was, say, 60 psi, your tank would be completely waterlogged and provide no real function.


texts: Are track lighting systems standardized/universal?

texts:
Our business has track for track lighting, but the previous tenants took the fixtures with them when they moved out.  I want to buy and install some pendant and spotlight track lights, but I'm not sure whether I have to look for models compatible with a certain standard, or if I possibly even have to stick to the same brand as the track manufacturer.

I think the manufacturer of the track is Juno, but I'll have to double-check whether it's line-voltage or low-voltage.  Once I figure out the voltage, should I be able to buy any track lights, or are they all standardized/universal so that I can buy any fixture of the proper voltage?


texts: How do I divert rain water that collects between two shed structures?

texts:
I have a pvc hoop shed that sits against the rear of my main resin storage shed. The rainwater flows down the taut tarp of the hoop shed & gets into the main shed floor. What's the best method to divert the water away?

Resin storage shed

Hoop Shed: (older pic that still shows how hoop shed is flush to resin shed on one side and deer fencing on the other)


texts: Lever for hot/cold water not turning to full capacity

texts:
The cartridge for my rental unit was recently changed by a plumber. However my water pressure is weaker than it was with the original 15 yo worn out one.
Also the lever to adjust the temp is stiff and does not move all the way to full capacity on the hot side. It should go all the way to the end of the red color and it’s maybe 3/4.
Also when turned on to cold the water itself barely comes on until I turn it counter clockwise closer towards warm.


texts: HEPA filter for GE portable air conditioner?

texts:
I have a GE portable air conditioner like the one shown below and am trying to determine whether there exists (OEM or otherwise) a HEPA air filter I can install in/on this device.  I am unable to locate anything from GE's accessories page, so perhaps there are some aftermarket solutions someone is aware of?
My rationale to utilize this air conditioner for filtering, as opposed to buying  a separete HEPA filter, is to potentially save on the cost associated with an outright HEPA filter and leverage my existing air conditioner instead.


texts: How effectively a pedestal fan blowing inward can bring the outside air if kept 2 feet away from a fully open window?

texts:
other Facts:

Window(s) size 3.5 feet* 5 feet (width)

Fan (2 nos.) Specifications Product page - specifications

Sweep size: 400 MM

RPM: 1280

Air Delivery: 75 CMM (What is the formula to convert CMM to CFM?)

Volume of the premise : 7200 Cubic Feet

High and Low Temperature day cycle (extreme during the year):

Month Wise Temperature Chart for the Location is available here

Summer: 45 Celcius - 29 Celcius (Comfort Target 22 Celcius)

Winter: 26 Celcius - 8 Celcius   (Comfort Target 26 Celcius)

Purpose: To take the advantage of Temperature gradient between external temperature and internal temperature. Use fans during the time period when beneficial and put on Air Conditioner (Cooling and Heating) when compulsorily required to achieve last lag of the temperature target.

Note: Premise is a concrete building with no insulation, so its temperature follows the external temperature. (Heats up after external temperature goes higher and cools down after external temperature goes down)

(1) How effectively a single pedestal fan (blowing inward) can bring the outside air in the room if blades are 2 feet away from a fully open window (with the distant window of same size at the other end of the house is kept open)?

(2) How effectively a pedestal fan (blowing outward) can throw the air from the room out of window if blades are 1 foot away from a fully open window (with the distant window of same size at the other end of the house is kept open)?

or

(3) How effective will be two pedestal fans (one inward and one outward placed at distant fully open windows of the house) for displacing the indoor air with outside air?


texts:
How out-of-level or out-of-plane does a floor need to be before it is noticeable?

Many of the houses I've lived in have floors that are out-of-level, visible to the naked eye. At what point does that happen?

(I realize that rigid flooring materials like tile need a floor that is in-plane, but that's not my concern here.)


texts: I am replacing my countertop and sink. How do I choose a new sink that fits my existing plumbing?

texts:
I am going to replace my countertop and sink, but the installer wants me to buy the sink first and then he will make the appropriate cut outs for it.  Then I will need a plumber to install it.

How do I know how to buy the right size sink so that my plumbing wont need major work?
Or, should I just buy whatever kitchen sink I like best and then have my plumber make adjustments?

Here are some pictures:


texts: Safety practices for 5-volt 150-watt power supply for dot-programmable RGB LED light ribbons

texts:
The electrical device in question:

For my owned premises, I self-installed RGB-programmable accent lighting: NeoPixels-compatible LED light ribbon (5 meter 300 LED individual-addressible, the WS2812 / WS2813 / SK6812 compatible type -- really cheap nowadays if you DIY, barely more than the cost of solid color).

For those unfamiliar -- these are the newer kinds of individual-light-programmable LED light ribbons.  Metaphorically like a single-pixel-row jumbotron capable of playing any animations or graphics at a high framerate, with many apps and software now available for these nowadays (proprietary and opensource).  Being a 3-wire (+/-/data SPI wire) compatible with Raspberry Pi as well as generic WiFi/Bluetooth/smarthome/hub controllers since this is a now-common LED chip that is also branded under big names.

Although not my install, here's a YouTube video of what NeoPixel compatible accent lighting is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyl-TS8sR_w (though I run it more subtle animate programmes, like gentle flame flickers and/or aqua flickers).

The unusual electrical in question:

What's so unusual about it is that it needed a high-wattage 5 volt power supply to drive it.  Peak is 90 watt (if 100% LEDs illuminated to all white), so I overprovisioned to 150 watt and bought this power supply off Amazon ... Admittedly it is generic/China but claims FCC/CE certifications / ISO 9001 factory.

Been working reliably/cool for the last 2 months in an open-air mount but I would like to improve safety.

I live in Province of Ontario, Canada and I've changed outlets and light switches all the time, as well as installed a new circuitbreaker (all in owned premises) that passed a 2nd person inspection -- as well as upgraded a sub-fusebox into a sub-panel (of same rating) in a detached-garage/shed, so I'm not new to DIY electrical work.

Now, my concern in question:

However, this barebone-ness of the power supply is giving me a little bit consternation, and I'd love to wrapper it up in a "box", like an oversized power junction box or similar.

From a safety perspective --

Are there some standard best practices relating to permanent installs of these high-wattage low-voltage power supplies -- e.g. the purchase of a fireproof metal enclosure and mounting these power supplies inside them, to prevent shock issues and reduce risks.

In addition, if there are issues continuing to use these types of bare power supplies -- what would be the best (reasonably priced) alternatives for a permanent install high-wattage 5V power supplies for these newly common dot-programmable RGB LED ribbons?   12 volt is common for older RGB ribbons (global-color programmable) but high wattage 5 volt (individual-LED programable) is relatively new in the residential lighting world and currently there seem very few best-practices yet.


texts: Just bought a house where electrical wires from pole first goes to detached garage. Main breaker is there in the garage. But it should be in the house. Who is responsible for this incorrect wiring. If ComEd is responsible for wiring from pole to power masts then are they also responsible for that the wires are not wired to the correct location?Should I ask them to wire correctly at no cost to me?


texts:
In order to insulate a room, would it make sense to apply a layer of bubble wrap to my walls/ceiling? What about some other material like mylar or foylon? What major factors would affect the answer to this question? In particular, would the amount of sunlight coming into the room have a significant effect?
If yes, how much benefit would I get from <100% coverage, e.g. from missing some uneven spots on the wall or missing the ceiling?
(Context: I am already taking a number of steps to insulate my windows. I am also a renter of a second floor unit with somewhat irregular construction, which I take to mean that it is a hassle for me to modify the exterior or the inside of the wall and I cannot assume that "best practices" were followed in the construction process.)


texts:
A tree fell on my fence made of horizontal steel cable and tore one. What's an economical way of fixing it that's not too ugly?

If the solution is to replace the entire cable, what is the end piece called and how is it crimped onto the cable?


texts: Treehouse joists on beams or beside beams?

texts:
Looking at treehouse plans online - sometimes you see joists on top of the support beams, sometimes it's all one layer using joist hangers. Is it best if joists are on top or does it matter?

Here is my plan... Beams are 2 laminated 2"x10"'s on each side - each floating on treehouse attachment bolts. 2"x8" joists on top using hurricane ties. 4 4"x6" knee braces below - 2 on the beams, 2 on the joists (via a horizontal 2"x8").

Alternatively, do I make the beams/joists all one layer? Maybe everything is 2"x10" like this:


texts: Troubleshooting: Why does my multimeter not work when a non-contact volt detector shows current?

texts:
I recently purchased a 1970's home, and the lights in one room don't work. Troubleshooting yields odd results, and I don't know where to check next.

The room

A fairly standard secondary room on the second floor.

One switch to a standard ceiling light fixture – non-working.
One switch to a closet light fixture – non-working.
Outlets around the walls, all of which work just fine.

The room is controlled by a single breaker, which works as expected, cutting all power to the room.

The non-contact tester

Using a Fluke, non-contact tester – the "VoltAlert" made to be stuck into an outlet - I don't get any results (as expected) when placed on the plate of any wall switch in my house, whether the switch is off or on. The only exception is the switch for the light in question, which lights up when the tester is 4-5 inches from the switch. I have no idea what could be causing such a result. It's just as sensitive around the light fixture - making it impossible to test an individual socket.

Flipping the breaker does cause all tests be negative, so at least we know the line from the breaker box to the switch is working.

The switch

The switch appears to be fairly new (blue plastic back), and is wired on the hot side. The rest of the wiring in that box appears to be done correctly. The hot line comes in near the baseboard and into the bottom of the box, and the switched line exits the top and continues up toward the ceiling.

The multimeter

This part throws me. I can't get my (cheap) analog multimeter to return any reading. I've tested both incoming and outgoing hot wires against the ground, both with the switch on and off, and I get no result. I tested a nearby outlet just to make sure it wasn't the multimeter, and got normal results.

The light fixture

It's old and is what I initially assumed to be the problem. Bulbs that are known to be good do not work. When the switch is off, the fixture still reads hot on the non-contact testers, despite the fact that this is a terminal. The multimeter also does not give any result when testing the hot/neutral behind the lighting fixture while the switch is on. This leads me to believe that the problem would persist beyond changing the fixture.

Ultimately, I've eliminated enough issues that I don't know what to test for next. I'm hoping someone with more experience has seen something like this before and can advise on the next most likely cause. Thanks in advance for any advise.


texts: Since neutral is connected to ground how is current kept off of ground?

texts: If neutral is connected to ground and current desires ground then I would think it would go to ground.  But my understanding is that it is kept off of ground until it's "upstream" of the breaker box, or unless a malfunctioning device shorts hot to ground.  So what "prevents" the electricity from going to the ground that the neutral is connected to?


texts: Basement room + concrete foundation + drywall + moisture question

texts:
Basement + concrete foundation + drywall / moisture question: just got drywall glued to a small portion of concrete foundation in an unfinished basement room:

Should I have contractor remove these drywall pieces to prevent any moisture/mold issues?

House is 2 years old and left 1 unfinished basement room by the garage undone. Trying to complete it.

Thank you!
JJ


texts: Why isn't my new toilet flushing system working as well as the old one?

texts: We just replaced the whole system in our toilet. It use to have a flushing ball valve and it worked great until it broke. It flushed everything down the first time no problem. Now with the new flushing system it's having a hard time just flushing down the TP. Did I not install it properly? I set it to the highest water fill line possible and made sure the chain is holding up the flapper long enough. Do I need a better system? If so what's the best flushing system to get?


texts: Difference in total pressure when HVAC system is on or off

texts:
This is a follow up question to one that I asked here.

I am measuring the total pressure at the registers (all registers are open) with the BMP180 pressure sensor and somehow they don't change very much when the system turns on. Logically, I would expect:

Static pressure increases since there is more air immediately after the air handler (correct me if I'm wrong on this one)
Dynamic pressure increases since there is air flowing through the register

So, I can see two reasons why I'm not seeing a difference:

The increase in pressure is so small that it is no different from noise at the pressure sensor (3 - 6 Pa noise)
There is some fundamental flaw in the pressure sensor such that it is not able to detect the pressure changes in the ducts

Does anyone have a better explanation why there is no change in pressure at the registers?


texts:
I've got a hole above an outlet box in a wall. The wall has a 2x4 to the right of the box. I can feel it from the inside. It's just lightweight dry wall. There used to be cable and network lines pulled out of the hole.

I need to patch it up, so I can sell the house it's part of. I'll make sure to turn off the power before any work. What's the best way to try to fix this hole? Are there any special considerations I should take?

The photo got rotated 90 degees for some strange reason. The hole is above the outlet. The 2x4 inside of the wall is to the right side.


texts: Adding an eaves drip edge to an existing roof installation

texts: There is some water dripping behind the gutter, and I am thinking of installing a drip edge. From what I read a drip edge is installed under the ice water shield at the eaves. The ice water shield sticks to the surface. Should I be attempting to lift up the ice water shield to install the drip edge underneath? Is the ice water shield likely to rip when pulling it up? Or is it unlikely to stick back after? Any other issue with what I am proposing?


texts:
I live in New York with 45 degree temperatures, and after heavy rain last night I have leaking ceilings all over my house.  Water is just seeping through the ceiling, drops and stops.  The water dries up in less than 3 minutes, with no sign of water marks.  It's happening even 10 hours after the rain stopped.

What can I do to correct it?


texts: Tips and advice for repairing front yard stairs cheaply?

texts:
The front yard concrete stairs at the place we're looking to buy are in need of eventual repair.  Some of the steps are different sizes creating a trip hazard.  In addition, some of them have large cracks.

Is there an easy way to repair them short of completely demolishing them? I'm wondering if it would be possible to "encase" the old stairs in new concrete; thus creating a new frame with more consistent sized steps.  Can that be done? Or is there perhaps another way to tackle it? I'm not a fan of demolishing the whole thing and starting over.


texts: How to fix a stripped metal nut hole on a refrigerator?

texts:
I have a new beautiful Samsung refrigerator. Black Stainless. The Door handle screw holes are stripped. We can only screw in the handle mounts about halfway. It seems to be aluminum or metal. Would you suggest I just drill out the threads and use JB weld?

Thanks so much


texts: Need an extension cord with lever or magnetic switch

texts:
I'd like to put an appliance in a tall pull out drawer in pantry.  Ideally I want it wired so that it only receives power if the drawer is pulled out - once the drawer is pushed in, power is cut to the appliance.

Thinking the easiest way to accomplish this is some sort of lever switch or magnetic switch in line on the extension cord that cuts power when engaged.

Any input appreciated.


texts:
First off, I'm in the UK. I've provided links to some terms I've used in case they're not universal.

I recently installed a used thermal store. It's set up as a vented S-plan system. When the valve feeding the cylinder is open AND the pump is on, there is a constant trickling noise.

There is a manual air vent just above the valve, as close to the cylinder union as it possibly could be. You can see this to the left of the wiring centre in the picture. The vent pipe itself exits at the top of the cylinder, so I would expect any collecting air to discharge through that in any case.   And there's a TPRV (to the right of the wiring centre) that I can also use to vent any air.

I really don't understand how there can be any air in the cylinder to produce noise, given all of this. I'm at a loss for how to get rid of the noise.


texts: What is the name of this tool? It almost looks like an Allen without the wrench

texts: Any body have any idea what this thing is called?


texts: How do I maintain an 80% efficient natural gas furnace?

texts:
I have an 80% efficient gas furnace at my house, that is seemingly working well and is configured with an air conditioner. What preventative maintenance should be done to it, and at what interval? Is replacing the air filter all that I need to do until I notice trouble?

Please provide details in general, so the answer can be be applicable to the most people.


texts: We have a brand new garage and are about to put a painted floor down. It needs to be totally clear of dust. I am not sure whether to hire a dry industrial cleaner or a wet/dry one?


texts:
I live in the Chicago, IL suburbs, and I've been told that I need BX wire to be up to code, both from a worker at Home Depot and from a friend who is an electrician.

However, I have only used Romex before, and it looks like there is already Romex wire running from my circuit box. Am I ok to continue use of Romex in my home?

I'm planning to add an overhead fan unit with a light to one of my bedrooms. The wires will be behind drywall.


texts: Do slotted screws indicate old fixtures? How old?

texts:
I have been doing renovations in my apartment, which is in a building that is at least 120 years old.
I have noticed that many of the fixtures I remove are installed with slotted screws. I don't see new fixtures sold with slotted screws anymore, and I was wondering if the slotted screws give any indication of the age of the old fixtures.
Was there a point in time when Phillips and combo screws took over?


texts: How can I repair a dining room table with folding ends?

texts:
If so, I've got a nice old dining room table that folds down quite small (seats 2) but also can be pulled out with leaves to seat ~8.  The ends of the table are supported by swing-out arms that are getting kind of tired.  Without stuffing something between the arms and the end leaves, the leaves sag down at about a 10 degree angle.

I'd like to replace the support arms with something more sturdy. Got any design recommendations?


texts: How do I turn builder rough-in plumbing into a basement bathroom?

texts:
Our house is nearly complete and I am planning our next steps. We have plumbing rough-in pipes for a basement bathroom, and to save some money I am planning on doing the bathroom myself over the next few weeks/months. I have done a decent bit of googling and have yet to find a tutorial that shows how I can go from rough-in to bathroom.

Q: What are the steps I need to take in order to create a bathroom from the rough-in pipes, and is there an instructional resource I can follow along with?

Details:

The framing is already done since the rest of the basement is finished
The floor will be tile
The sink will be a pedestal
I am considering putting in a utility sink instead of a shower and making it so it can be swapped out for a shower if we sell. Anything I should know there?


texts:
I am new to this place and looking for help. Just feel that I wanna try to fix my heat system by myself rather than waiting for (really sucking) pes&g guys.

Repairmen came days ago and was bleeding the system. Now the radiators on the 2nd floor is warm, but the ones on the 3rd floor are not. I tried to bleed at one of the radiators on 3rd, water came out, it turned warm for a while but again became cold very soon. When I check in the basement, one of the pipes on the top-left corner of the picture is hot, the other is not (as marked in the pic)

FYI,

That is a brief look at the heating system (boilers and pipes) in the basement. On the top-left corner there are 2 pipes which, I believe, come into 2nd and 3rd floor of my apartment. No other valves are found. The pressure meter is provided because I want to know whether that is too low pressure.

Any idea why this is happening and how I should solve that?


texts: How can I bend 180 degrees over a duct trunk with height restriction?

texts:
I have to run a flex duct from opposite side of main trunk, as other side of the trunk in the direction flex duct is running is not accessible.
This is in basement, I am using start collar with damper and then attaching 90 degree elbow.
do I add another adjustable elbow on the top of it ?
I wanted to run flex duct from the top of the trunk, but total height of start collar + 90" elbow is 12.5  inch and we need max height of 11 inch ( height of cavity), so thats why I opted for side.

Thanks!


texts: What size screws for mounting ENT electrical box with outer ears

texts: I am looking to mount an ENT electrical box, using the holes provided in the outer ears of the box as pictured below. What would be the appropriate type/size of screw to mount this to a wood stud?


texts: Running wire to ceiling with double joist parallel to wall

texts:
I'm finishing my basement, done the framing and starting wiring for lights. One wall runs parallel to the joists, and has a double joist (two 2x8) above the top plate (the wall is right next to the stairs, running between several existing posts).

I want to put the light switches on this wall, but I'm not sure how best to run the wires. I can't just bore a hole straight up through the top plate due to the joists.

Is it code to run the wires around the top plate? I am planning to install crown moldings, would those suffice to protect the wires? I could notch the top plate, but the wires will need to go around the joist face.

Alternatively I can run the wires to through the wall and then back to an adjacent wall and run to the ceiling from there. However, there is a 4x4 post in the corner between these two walls. Can I bore two perpendicular holes through that post to allow me to run the wire at the 90 degree angle?

Edit:

Here is a rough schematic of the situation. The two walls are shown, with red marking the existing posts. The wall that runs between the posts is the wall that has the double joists on the top header. The desired location for the switch is in blue:

Edit 2:

Here are a couple of pictures. The joists are painted black, so they're kinda hard to see, but the wall with the box in it has the joists running on top of it:

And this is the corner (with the 4x4 post between the walls):

Edit 3:

Would it be possible to notch the first joist, drill through the top plate close to that joist, run the wire through the gap and protect it with a nail plate? As far as I can measure the joist is 15' long, and this falls just under 5' from the edge, so should be outside of the middle 1/3 span. Is there any requirement for the height of the wire on the side of the joist?


texts:
If I run electrical wiring under a deck, what conduit and strap material / grading do I need? It doesn't have to be the underground / metal materials, right?

I like to build something similar to this

I found it on this website:

http://www.thedeanfamily.com/deck_5_.htm


texts: What is the quietest range (cooker) hood?

texts: I have looked into the Broan Allure series which claim to be quiet (1 sone).  However on closer inspection, the claimed sound level is only for the lowest setting.  The highest setting is 4 sones (4 times louder).  Is this something with no workaround or are there quiet models out there.


texts: Help: Black and White Wires on Switch but No Neutral?

texts: I was going to install a Kasa smart switch, which requires a neutral.  When I opened up this box, which contains 2 switches that control 2 separate lights outside (porch and walkway), I noticed black and white wires going into both switches.  Is this a sign of a switch loop for both outside lights?  Does this mean that the white wire is not neutral but hot?  Thanks for any help you can give a newbie!


texts:
I am currently in a battle with my landlord over what I believe to be mold growing on the fiberglass liner of the ductwork in my apartment. He is having a specialist come to test it tomorrow, and I have picked up my own DIY mold test and am waiting for it to incubate and product results.

I want to get a community opinion though. I already know that it's not definitive without proper testing, but please offer your $0.02:


texts: I would like to put my 3 ft x 1 ft x 2 ft shelves on wheels. They will be used to hold books in my classroom so they need to be fairly sturdy. However the wood is only 3/4 in thick. What kind of wheels should I use?


texts: Please suggest to me some thermally resistant plastic similar to PVC and Polycarbonate Plexiglass?

texts:
I want to find some colored/transparent plastic sheeting that has stable mechanical properties at 100 degrees Celsius, 200 Fahrenheit.

Edit- Sorry i forgot to say the project: It's for an electically insulated prototype drilled and machined box for lithium batteries, with various drill places for the batteries and some places for various screw fixtures. i can't allow the plastic to case to warp at all and i have to foresee a possible scenario where something could be 70 degrees and under tension of springs and so on.

Something very tough, same as plexiglass or pvc sheet.

I wish to have it in a sheet format for example 1/4 inch, 7.5mm

Someone told me that there are some electronics boards and fiberglass epoxies that are stable until 150 degrees C at least...

i dont know anything about plastic, what sheets can i find of that kind? melamine would be ok, except i don't think i'll find melamine sheets round here very easily.


texts: How do you clean up tung oil that has dried on a concrete porch

texts:
A neighbor's granddaughter got tung oil on her concrete porch while staining the front door. Unfortunately, it's been a few months now and I'm trying to help her find a way to remove the stain.
I tried paint thinner and mineral spirits which is what is recommended on the can for cleanup - but no dice. Yesterday I got some concrete and driveway degreaser, scrubbed it and then power washed it. Nothing so far has worked.
I suggested she might want to buy a nice outdoor carpet to put over it.
Any ideas on what might work?


texts: How could I run a residential water line across a creek?

texts:
I'm looking at a new location for a house, and all utilities will need to cross a creek at some point - it's about 10 feet wide, 3 feet deep at the lowest spot. Due to the proximity of it to the road, I do not think boring under the creek would be very easy, and you can't run over it unless you use heat tape - but there is no electric near the creek.

My current thought is to just dig a trench across the ditch about 1 foot deeper than the bottom of the ditch (so 4 feet down), and then run the water line across there with concrete around the line, then filling it back in with dirt. Since this is well below the frost line, and the creek never completely freezes, it should be fine in the freeze/thaw cycles. I do realize, however, that I would need to get the appropriate permits before digging a trench through the ditch.

Does anyone have any additional suggestions or advice for this process?


texts: Frigidaire FDB126RBS0 Dishwasher makes Grinding noises

texts:
I have a Frigidaire FDB126RBS0 dishwasher that has started making intermittent grinding noises when it is running. Based on what I have researched so far, it sounds like it could be either the pump or the food chopper. I have removed the lower spray arm and filter. There is standing water in the pump enclosure. I don't if that is normal.
I would like to know how to check/clean the food chopper to see if anything is stuck there. I have attached a photo of what it looks like. I see three screws that I could remove, but with the standing water I'm not sure where the water will go if I remove them.
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks!


texts:
I am trying to repeat a service that a plumber performed on my shower system.

An engineer came and fixed an issue with the hot water not reaching the correct temperature by installing a new valve. On completion he was unable to test the water temperature because other work was being carried out in the building which meant the entire buildings hot water was turned off.

Because of this, he said that he may not have set the tap in the correct position. When the water was turned back on later that day, as he had suspected, the water was not as hot as it should be.

Another plumber came out a few days later and adjusted the position of the tap, and the temperature changed. I was not there to test, and would like to adjust it some more.

I am not sure if it possible to adjust more, or how the system works. I have read the manual, and there are no instructions on how to do this. It looks like the metal clip can come out.

This is a Vado system as shown in the pic below. If someone has any idea what the plumber may have done when adjusting the tap, I would be appreciate the help. Or if you think there is another issue.

I have another bathroom and the temperatures are fine.

Thanks for any help


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texts: making a sculpture and need to know the proper way to wire different lights into one string. is there an issue with stringing up an led, regular bulba and christmas light with different watts?


texts:
We're pulling up carpet in a new-to-us house. There's a beautiful hardwood floor underneath that is in great shape except that there's some red/brown sticky goop spots left behind by the carpet padding. The padding is that multi-colored stuff and it seems like the red parts have melted or something. We don't know how long the carpet has been there, but it doesn't look like it's been there more than ten years. Under the goop, the floor finish is fine. I'd love to clean this stuff off and not have to completely refinish the floors.

The red stuff is still tacky. We can scrape most of it up, but it leaves behind a red film. What do you think we could use to clean this stuff up?