texts: What can I do about a shower valve stem that is too far recessed after tiling?

texts:
I am putting a shower back together after tiling it and putting fixtures back in. I bought a Moen universal shower handle trim kit because it was really the only thing I saw in a metal finish with that worked with a push/pull shower valve.

I no longer have access to the valve itself since dry wall, thinset, kerdi, and more thinset is surrounding the valve stem coming out of the wall. Anyway, it is now too far recessed and the handle has a piece (which I forgot to take a picture) that fits over the stem. It is flat on two sides and fits over it and then screwed into it.

Is there an extension piece that one can buy that will connect the two? Any suggestions would be great that doesn't require opening the wall back up. Just something I didn't think of while I was tiling.

The sleeve coming out of the wall can be pushed in further but it won't do any good. The "arms" on the piece that goes in the handle that prevents the handle from being turned passed the top part of the sleeve will just hit the face plate.


texts: Water Seeping Under Fiberglass Shower Drain

texts:
I had a water leak dripping under my shower onto the ceiling below. I replaced the drain (especially the rubber gasket), and now the leak seems to be much less.
It looks like the fiberglass making up the bottom of the shower pan is pourous and water is seeping into it. After shooting the water at the drain or clogging the drain and letting water build up a bit, the fiberglass around the drain appears wet from the bottom.
During my last test, no water actually leaked (dripped) at all, but the fiberglass appeared wet. Is this acceptable?
EDIT:
Pictures of the bottom of the shower pan:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GuqSbNCTKLY97HtL9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dkrNqyBb2Hsz44Rp7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8thVLNCS5PNkvEVy8


texts: What are the best options for rock, for french drains?

texts:
I'm installing a sump pump and a bit of drain, in a clay soil basement that happens to have a spring.  It is silty fine clay that has a habit of migrating with water and clogging everything.

What are the best drain rock types for this situation?  Road base?  Pea gravel?  River rock?  Crushed rocks?  Can you supply references to tests or building science on this answer?

In this case it is possible to flush the area every few years with clean water, as it is possible for the gravel to reach the basement grade level.  The hope is to dry out the soil in summer to reduce rust on the pipe and tree root growth.

Here's the temporary utility pump, used to lower the water level:


texts: standing seam metal roof: length of the clip-strip fastener

texts: What is the usual length of the fastener that holds the clip-strip to the decking for a standing seam metal roof?


texts: Electrical Outlet - Red and black wire to L1 T1

texts:
Background: I removed an in line wall heater thermostat from a 120v outlet, and want to ensure I reconnect the wires accurately.

Question: A google search hit insists the wire marked in red is running from the the panel, and if tested should be active if circuit is on, and should connect to the "L1", the other wire black and not labeled runs to the heater and connected to the "T1". Is this accruate? Is testing the connection with circuit on necessary? Out of curiosity, do the characters stand for anything?


texts: New construction, do the supports look correct in the attic?

texts:
I have a house under construction and this is how they are supporting the roof. Does this look correct?  Thank you for your input!
]1


texts:
I am wiring a new heat pump 50,000 btu, 208-230v ~60 hz.  Plaque says 12a running current, minimum 20a circuit, max 30a.

My breaker panel for the pump is a sub panel running off the main with a 60a breaker.  It currently only has a 20a circuit for the shed with one light, and one 115v receptacle, a 20a circuit for a pool light with GFI, and a 20a for the pump.

During electrician install, we asked for enough capacity to add a heater some day.

Are we good to add a 20 or 30a breaker for the new heat pump?

Am I good to just go with a double 20a with 12 gauge thn wire in a whip?

Looks like inside I'm just connecting the black and red to power and green ground.  No white right?  I have bare 8 awg copper to bond to the pump connector.  Anything I'm missing?


texts: How would I make a whiteboard for an odd sized space?

texts:
I want to make a white board (or something that will work for dry erase markers) to go in a place that you can not really buy for.

The space is only 10.5 inches high and 180 inches long. I was looking for a way that is not too expensive but still works well,

One idea was to get a long piece of laminated paper to hang up.

Does anyone know how I could do this?


texts: How to make a vanity top structurely sound for a vessel sink

texts: Hello everyone and thank you in advance to all that answer my question. So here is my dilemma..I recently took the sink out of my vanity in my powder room. It left a open area that I can see inside of the vanity but it also has small pieces of wood in each corner, I guess to keep the thing from falling apart. I want to build a shallow shadow box structure and then put a 12.5lb vessel sink and about a 3 pound faucet on top. My question is how can I make this structurely sound? I have thought about putting 2x4 across the top of the vanity and then placing a piece of plywood on top of that. I only have 1 1/2 inches of height available to me. The whole area is 21X30 inches. And if I use the 2x4 can I just screw it in the vanity or should I get metal brackets? If you have any additional questions just let me and I will try to explain it...thanks again!!!!


texts: Why is only one of my AC blowers producing cold air?

texts:
When I turned on my Kolin aircon, one blower is blowing out cold air and the other is blowing warm air.

When I shut the one that is blowing cold air (leaving the one that is blowing warm air), the fan stopped spinning.

I opened up the compressor compartment, I have 2 compressor capacitors (30 UF 450VAC) and a fan capacitor 3.5UF 450VAC).

Now all (on the surface) seemed good.

I wanted to change all of them to new ones. BUT with only 440VAC. IS this correct or allowed?

Will I end up under voltage and spoil the aircon?

Edit: ThreePhaseEel: I am from the Philippines. Xeeka: The capacitor voltage is 450

Mr Ed Beal: Could you kindly explain on the reversing valve which you have mentioned is in the wrong place. And where can I find this valve. It's a Multi Split Airocn with 2 blower: KOLIN KSG-20B2 single phase.


texts: Turning Euro wooden pallets into garage shelving with minimum tools

texts:
I have access to Euro pallets : 1100mm * 1100mm * 69mm

I want to create exactly this with top shelf 2m high:

I am extremely illiterate when it comes to DIY but I have a drill and know how to drill pilot holes and screws.

My questions:

Which wood (for the connecting bars) and screws should I buy? I need the measurements of the wood please - 2000mm * x * y. Cost is a factor and need it as cheap as possible please.
Would it be possible to do this without me using a saw?
I want to buy the connecting bars from a place who will saw it for me.
Would Pine wood work for horizontal connecting bars?
Would 2 bars on each side work as in picture?
How many screws should I drill in each connecting point with the pallets?
E.g. 4 screws per connecting point * 4 places for each bar * 4 bars = 64 screws?


texts:
I'm building a lumber-framed office inside a commercial warehouse. It's essentially an 8' x 30' x 9' box with a ceiling and "second floor" made of 2x6" joists, with 2x6" rim joists resting on top of the two 2x4" walls. Note that the second floor will only be used for light storage.

Because one wall of the office is up against the wall of the warehouse, I can't end-nail the joists. I could toe-nail the joists, but I want to use metal hangers instead. Is there any problem with doing do, even though the rim joist and the hangers will be resting on the top plate?

Building Construction

The back wall of the building is a decorative cinder block. I’ll anchor the top of my walls to the back wall.

The front wall is large steel studs. I bolted the top of the outer wall to one of those studs (although it was out of plumb, so there's about a 1" gap at the bottom).

I’ll bolt the inner wall, too, but haven't gotten to it yet (have to find the stud behind it and drill, then use some kind of toggle):

I'm tying the rim joists to the top plate with Simpson TA9ZKT staircase angles every 5':


texts: How do I connect a new trap to an old cast iron pipe?

texts: I replaced a lavatory in the bathroom with a new faucet and new trap, but the old 1-1/4 trap is connected to a cast iron pipe with led through the wall. I cut the old trap out, and I used a 1-1/4 connector and it is okay. I'd like to replace the old piece of trap that is leading into the cast iron pipe with a straight PVC pipe and an adapter. What is the best way to do that?


texts: How soundproof is roxul / acoustical putty?

texts:
I want to put Roxul and acoustical putty in the interior walls of the home my wife and I are renovating. She is worried that she won't be able to hear the kids (ages 5, 3, 0) in the next bedroom over if we do that. The home is 950 sq. ft. and has three bedrooms, all next to each other.

If I just put Roxul and use accoustical putty between the bedrooms (2x4 studs), how soundproof is it going to be?  I understand that to get real good soundproofing, you have to use green glue, multiple layers of drywall, acoustical drywall, and RSI clips. I figured the Roxul and putty would just give us all a little bit of privacy without totally sealing off sound from one bedroom to the next.


texts: How do I build a sound dampening box for a pool filter?

texts: I have a pool filter next to my house in the 1.5m between my house and the boundary. I'd like to build a box around it to dampen the sound a bit. I will still need periodic access to the filter for maintenance. The filter is out of sight, so there is no need for it to be pretty. What is the best way of doing this?


texts: I've consistently experienced issues with my AC. I won't get into all of the background, but I would like to know if the pictured condensate line is appropriately trapped. The vertical PVC pipe is not capped, and I assume that doesn't allow for the appropriate suction. Curious to hear additional input! Thanks in advance.


texts:
I found this picture and interested in knowing what glass materials being used for the patio cover. Is it just fixed single pane glass (from local home improvement store)? And if so, how do I attach it to the lumber?
If not, is it some fixed window glass with custom size?


texts: Using washers to fill gap between top support component and IKEA IVAR cabinet

texts:
I have an IKEA IVAR pine cabinet, the 80x50x83cm version - like the cabinet here.

I have installed it into IKEA IVAR side units, 50x226cm - like the side units here.

Here are the assembly instructions.

The side units are over 15 years old, which may explain the following problem:

There are supports which plug into holes in the uprights and have a protruding part which contacts the cabinet. The supports go on the top and bottom of the cabinet. There is a hole in the protruding part for a machine screw which screws into a hole in the cabinet to steady it. (See pages 16, 17 and 18 in the assembly instructions.)

The cabinet is properly seated on the bottom supports, and screwed in correctly. However, when it is properly seated on the bottom supports, there is a 3mm vertical gap between the protruding part of the top support and the top of the cabinet. The top machine screw is then too short to properly screw into the cabinet.

I phoned IKEA. Their suggestion was to order new uprights. I would like to avoid that.

Is it a reasonable solution to buy new, longer, machine screws (14mm)
and use a 3mm stack of washers to fill the gap between the support
and the cabinet?
The metal washers which fit the British Standard for an M4 machine
screw are 0.8 mm in depth. I’ve found nylon washers which are 1mm in
depth. How should I arrange my washers so they fill up the space
underneath the support fully? Can I mix washer types? (I’m not sure 3mm is an exact measurement.)

The part numbers in question are:

103887 for the supports
100404 for the screws

The IKEA parts catalogue, which gives the dimensions of individual parts, is available here:
http://www.icomp.webcms.se/index.cfm


texts:
Having fixed quite a few things to walls in my life, I am about to hang something for the first time to a ceiling. It will be a plant pot weighing below 5 kg. The ceiling is made from concrete. I have always used plastic anchors to fix things to concrete and brick walls. But I am not sure that's sufficiently strong for a vertical hole in a ceiling. Besides I have read somewhere that plastic anchors will melt in case of fire, so they shouldn't be used in ceilings to fix anything that can hurt humans. Not that I expect people to enjoy the shadow of my plants in the event of fire. And the pots will be in the corner of a room, not above the escape path. Still I want it done properly. A sleeve anchor looks like an overkill for such weight. Suprisingly I couldn't find any simple reliable (standard?) recommendations on this topic. Are there any?

FWIW so far I've bought d4.5x40 mm thread hooks looking roughly like this: http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1kp_RMXXXXXc5XXXXq6xXFXXXX/8-3-8mm-65mm-16mm-Metal-font-b-Hooks-b-font-font-b-Screws-b-font.jpg


texts:
This seems to be the best forum to get answers. I asked a question a week ago about placement of LVL beam, it was answered in a matter of minutes.

So I am placing this 13ft (12.8ft) Versa-Lam LVL beam as header for a 12ft patio door. You can see the opening I have. I will be adding 3-1/2 by 3-1/2 Versa-Lam LVL posts as Jack studs on each side against the King studs that already exist there once I build up the support wall.

Right now, the king stud that exists on the left side is right at a corner wall. It the very last King stud right at the corner. And I have no access to the opposite side of the King Stud for nailing the beam to it.

Once I place the beam, how do I nail it to the king stud? Do I just toe nail it?

I appreciate any comment. Thanks


texts: What is the best type of paint for a basement floor?

texts:
I need to paint a basement floor that will see rugged use. What type of paint is appropriate for that? Or is maybe paint the wrong thing altogether and I should use a bake on plastic or something like that?

Before I paint, should I use a floor sander, like they use on wooden floors to smooth it out?


texts: Rigid foam vs cellulose insulation in the attic

texts:
I'd like to know if someone has any experience regarding how well the rigid foam panels insulate homes compared to cellulose blown-in fiber.

I really don't like the idea to dumb some mess in my attic. But I saw many videos showing how cellulose performs. I read that the cellulose doesn't fully stop the air flow compared to rigid foam panels.

Yes, I'd like to store some stuff in the attic but I don't want to compromise the insulation values. All the reviews at the home depot site regarding cellulose talk about the installation, not the actual product or the experience of the product performance.

Will the 2-inch thick rigid foam panel provide me with the same or similar heat conservation as the cellulose?

vs.


texts: What kind of saw would I use to cut a shape out of a panel?

texts: It's is a nice even cut trying to find out what kind of saw.


texts: I have 2 PVC pipes coming out of my TRANE gas furnace. Today I noticed that one is dripping water from the top. Picture attached. Its a slow drip. What could this be?


texts: How can I repair this ceiling mounted cloth drying rack?

texts:
I have a cloth drying stand (or cloth drying rack) which is of ceiling mounted type. What happen was that one of the edge fall off and another edge was like hanging up there, waiting to fall off anytime.

The cloth drying stand look similar like the one below:

Is there anyway to fix it? or are there better alternative that is very easy to install on ceiling and is portable (which mean that I can place it anywhere)?


texts: Can I run heating duct work through the attic?

texts:
Problem...

(in Buffalo NY)

We just about finished remodeling our master bedroom. Everything insulated, drywalled and we're living in it.

Now that the winter is upon us, we're already finding this room to be colder then the rest of the bed rooms upstairs.

I have a clear shot from the basement to the attic via a old clothing chute that's being closed off. In the basement, the opening for the chute is just feet from the furnace.

Can I run a new duct from the basement, up the cavity, into and across the attic and down through the ceiling of this room?

Can I put a vent in the ceiling of the bedroom or must it be in the wall / baseboard ?

We're talking 20 feet max through the floors into the attic and another 20 feet across the attic into the bed room. Will I have a lot of heat loss at that distance?

I should mention its a brand new 97% efficient Lennox furnace sized properly for the house.


texts: What could be causing a urine smell in our bathrooms?

texts: I live in a home built in 2006. We are a clean family and have no pets. In ALL three of our bathrooms I am smelling an odor of "old urine". I do have a 3-year-old son so at first I thought he was simply missing the toilet in his bathroom, but days after both my husband and I noticed the same smell in the other two restrooms. I cleaned all with bleach thoroughly and still. . .the odor remains. Could this be something with our plumbing? Can we do a cleansing of the plumbing in the house?


texts: What are my options for hardwood floor scratch and gouge repair?

texts:
I have a 10 month old puppy who recently discovered her (apparent) love for the taste of wood putty. There was a rather large knot hole that had been plugged and finished in our living room floor that she spent considerable time chewing out.

So now what we have is a about a 1/4in deep knot hole surrounded by deep scratches from where her teeth dug in.

What is the best option for repair? The guy at my local hardware store recommended sanding the area out, building it back up with putty, and then restaining. I do have several cans of the original stain/varnish so I'm hoping to get a pretty close match. Please help!


texts: Can I wire a 3-4-3 way switch circuit with power to switch and lights at the beginning and end of the run?

texts: I made the mistake of not wiring all 3 lights together, only two above the stairwell going to the basement and then a separate light in the basement.  I'm hoping there is an easy wiring path to allow me to add the basement light at the end of run.


texts: Is it against code to run electric Line in cpvc out of breaker panel and into the ground?

texts: Electric question, Is it code in Az to run an electric line in cpvc out of breaker panel into the ground and to destination


texts: GFCI Won't rest. shows no LED Light but has power

texts: I have a GFCI outlet in the kitchen that shows no LED color status, cannot reset but still has power and downstream.  Also, I notice that when I plug my coffee maker on the upstream outlet between another working GFCI, when I press the reset button on the GFCI in question, I hear the coffee maker start to :jump start.  Is there a short or is it just a bad GFCI?


texts: Antique Schlage Door Knob - Can't reassemble

texts: From an old Schlage outside/inside door knob (I think it dates back to the 1950's).  I can't find where the retaining clip goes.  The front of the door is a handle with an old-fashioned lever


texts: How many coats of quality paint are needed over old exterior house paint in good condition and of the same color?


texts:
I'm building out a shop (within the same building as the main panel) and I'm considering adding a sub panel to make running circuits easier, and to make any future expansion easier.
I'm unsure how to calculate the load for the sub's breaker in the main panel.
I've got the following in mind (120V except where specified):

40A shop heater (240V, 7500W)
20A circuit for outlets
20A circuit for outlets (2nd)
20A "outside" circuit for outdoor outlet and eventual extension to outbuildings
20A circuit for dust collection
20A "large tool" circuit (240V, ~16A max)

Those wouldn't all be at capacity all the time, but I could certainly envision the heater, dust collection, large tool, and an outlet all generating significant load (~100A).
Do I size the breaker and the subpanel feed for what I think I would need (100A) or for the maximum possible capacity (140A+)?  Or is there a accepted formula or scaling factor I should use?
Thanks!
(This is in Washington state in the US in case that's relevant for code compliance).


texts: Why aren't my three-way switches working?

texts:
I've searched on this site and many others, and have not been able to discover a solution. I was wondering if you guys could help me out.

I have 2 3-way switches in my hallway that control a set of two lights. It used to work perfectly. However, recently one switch would only work when the other was in a specific direction (i.e. they weren't toggling as normal). So I changed both switches, assuming one of them had gone bad, attaching the wires exactly as they were before. Same problem.

Looking into the problem a little further, I broke out my voltage tester and discovered that the hot wire was hooked up to the common on the first switch. But, the second switch wouldn't get power unless the first switch was in on position. The travelers on the first switch seemed set up normally - one was on when the switch was in one position, and they would switch when I switch the switch position. However, the other switch only got power when they were in one position, and the lights wouldn't turn on unless the second switch was on.
To further complicate matters, all the wires are black. There are no red wires, and all the whites are wire-nutted in the back. Additionally, the hot wire coming in to the first switch is wire-nutted together with another black wire, which brings power to another light fixture in the house.

Thoughts? I can't figure it out.


texts: What kind of sand should I use for a sandbox?

texts: What type of Sand is normally used for Sandboxes? I've heard some people love Masonry sand because it clean of small pebbles. Other like Concrete sand because it packs well.


texts: How to plumb a point of use water heater overflow

texts: I want to add a small tank-type point of use water heater under my kitchen sink.  What is the best way to plumb the overflow?  Obviously there is no floor drain under the sink or nearby.   Is it possibly to add one somehow to the existing sink drain pipe?


texts:
I am installing a tankless water heater, which is an outdoor model. We are likely to use PEX when redoing the plumbing, but because the heater is outdoors, we will need to have a short, outdoor PEX run.

Are there any preferred ways to protect it from UV exposure? I've seen suggestions to paint it, I'm sure I could make a covering for it, and I don't doubt that pipe insulation would work. Is there a best-practices way though?


texts:
I am getting ready to do a tiled shower project, and after that, a roughly 800sq ft floor.  In both cases, I will use porcelain tile and the tile will be large format tile (LFT) that measures 12"x24".
I have a wet saw, but the shower is on the second floor and it would be much easier if I could cut the tile in the same room or at least on the same level of the house.  To do this, I am looking at purchasing a tile cutter similar to this one.  I understand that tile cutter can only cut straight lines, and I am OK with that.
My concern is that I've seen numerous websites/comments that say a tile cutter does not produce a clean edge, and that since porcelain is harder than ceramic, getting a good cut is much harder with the tile I want to use.
I am wondering if anyone can confirm or refute my concern.  I am by no means a professional, but I would venture to say I'm an above-average DIYer.  Given that, do I stand a reasonable chance of being able to use a tile cutter with a somewhat high degree of success?


texts:
I'm planning a storage shed underneath a deck. I'll assume that the deck is anchored below the frost line and won't move when the ground freezes.

I'd like to build the shed on just a floating gravel pad, which I assume will rise a bit when the ground freezes.

Is it possible to estimate how much overhead clearance is necessary to account for the heave displacement, such that my shed doesn't end up bursting through the floor of the deck?

Luckily I'm in a pretty temperate area and the soil frost depth in my area is only 12 inches, so I expect I won't have too much displacement to worry about (thinking about something like 6" of overhead clearance at highest point), but just wanted to see if anyone had a knowledgeable answer.


texts: Washing Machine Fills with water, then drains

texts:
We have a front loading GE washing machine model GFWN1000. Recently, when running any of the wash cycles, it will fill with water like normal and then go ahead and drain without doing any washing.

I tested the spin functionality, and it works fine on a drain and spin cycle. The agitation functionality appears to be what is not happening.

I've checked that there's no siphoning, the load is balanced (by using a small load of shirts), and the pump filter is not clogged.

Any other ideas?


texts: moving electric water heater to old shower cove

texts:
doing extensive remodeling of a small (1400 sq ft) house. I want to move the electric water heater to an old shower cove. Getting the wiring there will be easy (its about 5 feet away and all the walls are currently open).

I would use the old shower cold water pipe to supply the water heater and use the old shower hot water pipe to supply the rest of the house from the water heater. Those connections  would be simple to do.

I realize the 1/2" shower lines are smaller than recommended for a water heater, however at the old water heater site the 3/4" output line is immediately reduced to 1/2" BEFORE any branches - so the entire house is currently being served by 1/2' trunk lines. The street supply to the water heater in its current location is 3/4', so that would be a significant change in the new location.

It seems to me that, physics being a constant, if the output trunk is 1/2", then having a 3/4" supply to the water heater doesn't matter, since the water can't come in faster than its going out. Therefore, there should be no change to the pressure or flow rate throughout the house with the water heater relocated to the old shower.

Finally, the new (old shower) location will have a floor drain (concrete slab, single story house) so that's a plus for the relocation of the water heater.

My question : is there anything I'm missing about connecting the old shower pipes to a water heater?

I will throw in here that putting in an electric tankless heater in the current water heater's location is an option, but I am not thrilled with that plan - tankless electric water heaters seem to be less powerful than their gas fired cousins.


texts: West wall of house in Phoenix is cinder block with no insulation. How can I insulate it?

texts:
A north/south situated single level townhome in Phoenix has a west facing wall that bakes in the summer heat.  It's about 10' tall.  The interior walls are 8'.  Both bedrooms and bathrooms are situated along this wall.  The finish is 1/2" drywall.  The only thing between the drywall and the block wall is a 3/4" gap furred out by 3/4" thick wood strips at 16" on center.
Modifying the exterior is not an option as the HOA is responsible for all landscaping, so the only thing that I can do is something between the cinder block and the finished wall, or spray-in foam to fill the cinder blocks (which I've read isn't optimal for the cost.)
What is the best course of action to reduce the radiant heat inside?


texts:
I'm trying to remove some halogen GU10 lightbulbs.  They are in a space where simply gripping them around the edges is nearly impossible.

Is there any trick to removing these bulbs?


texts: Can I connect 12 AWG wire to 10 AWG in a junction box?

texts: This may sound like a dumb question, but I'm adding some electrical outlets to my garage using 10 AWG wiring in conjunction with 30 amp circuits. I am running 10 AWG THHN through conduit to multiple junction boxes. I terminated the connections at the junction boxes using romex and I'm running the romex behind the wall to the outlets that are above the junction boxes. I have been using 10 AWG romex from the junction box to the receptacles but it's caused a few of my outlets to sit crooked in the box due to the wire being so stiff. I was curious if I could use 12 AWG romex from the outlet box to the junction box and terminate it with the 10 AWG THHN. I know that 12 AWG is only rated for 20 amps but I won't be using any power tools that require more than 15 amps on one receptacle at a time, also the receptacles are only rated for 20 amps.


texts: Doorbell has no voltage, but chime wires always have voltage

texts:
I just moved to a new place and trying to fix the doorbell. There are 2 doors, frond and back, neither one is working. I found a doorbell wire image on Google:

However, it's very strange to see the following behaviors:

Disconnect both frond and back buttons, because they could be broken. Test the voltage in Chime. Rear&Trans shows 18V and Front&Trans also shows 18V. It's weird because both buttons are disconnected. Is it correct to say that the Chime is directly connected to the Transformer?
Disconnect all 3 wires in Chime. Now test Front and Rear buttons. Both show 0 Voltage as expected.
Connect all 3 wires in Chime. Now test Front and Rear buttons. Rear has 18V but Front has 0V.

I also have a wire tracer, but unfortunately I still couldn't find the transformer. I was thinking if there's a broken wire on front door button because it shows 0V. If I use wire tracer on front door button, I can here the tracer sound on Chime and rear door button. I'm very confused why my front doorbell has 0V.


texts:
I'm replacing the sump basin/liner in my home which is currently a perforated 5 gallon bucket surrounded by gravel.  I have an interior drain system that has two pipes terminating into the gravel pit area (but not into the basin itself - the water dumps into the gravel and through the holes in the bucket).  We have a high water table and the sump runs every few minutes on normal days.

My question is: should I replace the bucket with a solid liner, with openings for the drain pipe to go directly into the basin to be pumped out.... or should I use a perforated liner that allows water to come in in addition to the drain pipes?  It seems counter-intuitive to me to have the drain pipes empty into a basin with holes in it... but maybe I'm missing something and water needs to be allowed in in addition to the drains?

I really appreciate any advice you can give.  Thanks!

Oh my - two very different responses!  My thought was that if it the liner is sealed any additional water pressure would result in the perforated drain tile doing it's job "better" and bringing the water to the pit.  However, the response from Ed was exactly what I'm concerned about (the ground water causing the floor to leak).

If I use a perforated bucket it would surely always have water at the bottom because of the high water table.  Would it be okay to elevate the sump in the pit (using something like pavers) so that it's only emptying to a depth around 6" below the slab?  The problem now is it's constantly cycling to remove ground water that is over a foot below the slab.  I'm using a Zoeller without an adjustable float, so raising the pump itself is the only thing I can think of.

Thanks again for the responses.

Edited to add photo of current setup.  The current bucket top sits a couple of inches below the top of the slab... when I install the new basin I will make it level with the slab and fill with concrete.


texts: What tools auto-populate a floorplan with measurements?

texts: I have a home floorplan that I want to add measurements too. Assuming I have an initial scale (like X" on paper = Y' feet in real-life), are there tools (apps or websites) that can auto-populate my floorplan with measurements?


texts: Can I change which switch controls which light?

texts: Why are light switches so often wired in the wrong order. For example, on a single board, the switch closest to the hallway is for the lounge while the switch closest to the lounge turns on the hallway light. Is this less likely to happen in luxury homes? Can I fix this easily myself?


texts: Determining if there is insulation behind a wall

texts: Learning today that some of our walls are a whole 20 degrees colder than others (all facing east) I'm convinced we may not have proper insulation (it's a new house, but we've head numerous problems before). What methods, short of cutting a hole, exist to determine whether a wall is insulated or not?


texts: Possible explanations for a hissing toilet

texts:
Mansfield 1.6 Toilet. Relatively recent (<3 years old) Korky fill. Hissing noises. Water level stable.

So, I replaced the drain stack with a new one, new gasket, bolts, etc). Put it all back together, and I'm right back where I started. If I'm hearing watery noises from the Korky unit, where is the water going, if the level in the tank does not go up and over the overflow in the drain stack? Should I just replace the fill at this point? Needless to say, no sign of water outside the toilet.


texts: When should I replace a circular saw blade?

texts: Is there a rule of thumb for how often a circular saw blade should be replaced? Is visually inspecting the blade condition enough?


texts: How to find replacement for this Blum-type hinge

texts:
I have a broken hinge on a mirror cabinet. It is some kind of Blum-like hinge: it is connected to the bottom of the cabinet and then in the side to a door.

I can not seem to find such a hinge available.

Does anyone know how this would be called or where I can find it?


texts: I am having my bathroom renovated professionally. Is it okay to have a crumbled edge in the cement board that causes a small gap where it meets the tub? Or does it need to be replaced?


texts:
I'm renting a house in which I have some gym equipment in the garage. I'm anticipating buying some 3'x4'x3/4" rubber stall mats to protect the floor and deaden noise from dropped weights.

I would be lying the mats side by side in a tiling fashion but I have some concern about the mats slipping on the bare concrete.

What would be the best way to safely secure these rubber mats in an impermanent way?


texts: Is hanging beam a type of vertical members?

texts:
per wiki

  A joist is a horizontal structural member used in framing to span an open space, often between beams that subsequently transfer loads to vertical members.

What does "vertical member" mean here? Is hanging beam a type of such vertical members?


texts:
I have a split-level home, which is approximately 1600 sq.ft.  Presently I have electric baseboard heat, with a pellet stove on the main level.  I am looking to upgrade to a better, more centralized heating system, while also ditching the pellet stove (too many problems, too much work).

The main floor; which is one room, combining living room, dining area and kitchen is on a slab.  Go up 6 steps to 3 bedrooms and a full bath.  Go down 6 steps to a 4th bedroom/den, full bath, and a small laundry/utility room.

I have had a couple of different contractors in to take a look, and I am getting conflicting advice.  One person said that since there is a natural gas line at the street, I should have a line brought in and go with a high output gas fireplace on the main floor, and use electric on the lower level.  Then use window units for AC.

Another guy recommended mini splits. He said it would be too expensive to install a gas furnace for central heat. As he would either have to go up into the attic to run vents that would blow heat through vents in the ceiling, or run piping to baseboard heaters and the walls would be torn open.  His advice was to forget the gas option, and just go with 4 mini splits (1 on the main floor, 1 on the lower level, 1 in the master bedroom and 1 in the medium sized bedroom - baby's room doesnt get one, he said to leave the door open and leave her with baseboard heat.)  But I am a bit concerned that I still have electric heat.

Does anyone have experience with this type of home design? It is less than ideal, and maybe this is why the original builder put electric heat in the house. I believe the power company will run the gas line for free if I have a big enough appliance/s.


texts: How can i figure out which wires go where, if the colors at the furnace don't match the thermostat?

texts:
I have an old system and want to update the thermostat

however, the white-rodgers thermostat has no letters such as R,G,B,Y,W,C

So I checked out the furnace terminate wires and the colors of the wires
do not match the colors of the wires on the thermostat.

Thus, i can't follow the colors of the wires up from the furnace.


texts: Remove old ceiling pancake (pan) junction box, or how to work around bolt in that box?

texts:
I'm having a difficult time removing an existing ceiling junction box/pan. There was a nut holding the bolt in the center.

I thought the nut was holding the box in place, but even with the nut gone the box won't come out. There are no screws or other hardware I can see holding the box in place.

I want to replace the box because the nipple on my chandelier mounting hardware butts right up against that bolt in the center of the box.

The gap between the bolt and nipple is very slim and (so far) impossible to feed the wires through.

I was hoping to replace the box with a newer one that doesn't have that bolt in the middle. There is some space between the bolt in the junction box and the chandelier nipple, but the clearance is really small.

I could pre-thread the wires through the nipple to make it simpler to get the wires through the gap, but I'm also concerned about the wires getting pinched and damaged. It's a tight squeeze, especially when I actually screw the bracket in place.

I've seen other questions with ceiling junction boxes like mine. Unfortunately, those other examples aren't quite like mine. Either those examples don't have that bolt in the middle of the box, or if they do, they aren't having the same problem where there's a nipple that's colliding with that bolt.

I do not have access from above and there are no visible screws holding this in.

How do I get this box out of there?
Is there another solution I could persue to deal with the issue where the nipple and bolt are butting up against one another without needing to replace this box?


texts: What valve should I use for water control flow after upgrading to thermostatic valve?

texts:
I had leaking valve assembly for a beauty salon's hair washing station. It had a handle that allowed to independently control temperature and pressure. It looked like this:

And, to save water and for convenience, I just bought thermostatic valve that looks like this:

And the shower head with hose that I may or may not reuse looks like this:

Since, thermostatic valve is not designed to control water flow, then I need another valve that would do that.

I am considering options here w.r.t. what would be legal and safe to prevent accidental flooding.

Option #1. Use something like kitchen sink rinser that has a built in shut off valve. My concern with this option is - are they reliable enough because they would be under pressure 24/7? Also, is there design that instead of simple on/off option would allow to control pressure flow?

Option #2. Use a cheap $10 water control valve. It is tempting for me to install it on the hose's side that has shower head opposed on hose's side where thermostatic valve resides. Mainly because then this water control valve would be in easy to reach place. And I would not have to deal with partially rotten wood frame where the old valve was installed. Are these valves reliable enough to be toggled multiple times a day?

Option #3. Get a shower trim kit with valve (similar to what we already had). Seems quite expensive, and I believe I would need to get one with only one inlet for warm water as water will be already premixed.

Any other options on how to control water flow?


texts: Three sets of wires and no clear way to ground

texts:
We're changing the extremely old fixtures in our hallway with some sleek modern LED lighting.

Upon removing the fixture I discovered three sets of twisted wires - double white, black-red (the fixture used it for the black) and a black-white pair that wasn't connected to anything. The electrical box itself is grounded (I think - there's a bare copper wire tied to a screw in the electrical box) but the new fixture says to attach the green fixture ground wire to the "power supply ground wire" which, as far as I can tell, doesn't exist.

The previous fixture had a bracket with a grounding screw but that bracket is incompatible with the new fixture, which came with it's own plate/bracket system (but nowhere to put a grounding screw).

How do I properly ground the fixture? Would the untouched black-white pair possibly be a part of the solution?


texts: Why do a few of the LEDs in my lamp stay on at very dim light?

texts: Bough this lumiere for my room, but have one question. When I flip a switch on and on remote of the lamp OFF, most of LEDs turn off, but in first line of LEDs four of them dim out to like few percent and in last line of LEDs 4 of them dim out the same. So those two groups of four LEDs don't turn off when I use remote and wall switch is on. Is this normal? Minor electricity has to be there so I can switch on with remote so lamp stays in like a sleep mode?


texts: Can I connect a Lutron Caseta switch to a half hot outlet?

texts:
I recently installed a Lutron Caseta (PD-6ans) switch that connects to a half-hot outlet. I noticed there is still a trickle of electricity coming out of the switch even when it's off. Enough to make a non-dimmable LED bulb flash in the lamp plugged into it. I switched to a dimmable LED bulb and that fixed the flash problem, but there's still a trickle going to the half hot side of the outlet when the switch is off. Is that a big no-no? How can I fix it? Or am I worrying about nothing?

Thanks for the help!!

Edit: Here's the entire wiring of everything in question. There were two three-way mechanical switches that controlled two half hot outlets (used for lamps). I replaced one of the mechanical switches with a PD 6ans and wired the other mechanical switch according to how Lutron says to do it. Everything works how I want it to, but still have some current flowing when it should be off.


texts: What size of pvc pipe should be used to make T for sewer pipe vent?

texts: We have an older home with a cast iron sewer vent pipe. We live in very cold climate. Have heard that a T made with pvc pipe can be used to illuminate the pipe end coming out of the roof from freezing up. Pipe circumference is 4". What size of pvc should be used and how long should the portion that fits down the pipe be?


texts:
I have two 3-ft 4x4 pieces of wood and I would like to join them securely so that I have one 6-ft 4x4 piece of wood.

What's the best way of doing this?

Thanks.


texts: Running single phase appliance from three phase socket?

texts: Can a single phase appliance (Australian 230 V) be wired directly to a three phase socket using a single active plus the neutral wire? If not why?


texts: Attaching a ledger board - only partial rim joist

texts:
Last year I removed the rotting deck that was on the back of my house and this year I am replacing it.  The previous ledger board was bolted directly against the shingles in the position indicated by the red lines.  I was intending to place the new one in the same location.

Today I planned to attach the flashing and ledger board.  I removed a double-layer of cedar shingles, the tar paper beneath them and the fiber board under that - and was surprised to discover I was looking into my house.  I moved further and found a rim joist that covers part of the floor joists, although it doesn't look particularly sturdy and is between the joists rather than capping them.

Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

I can remove further shingles, but I didn't want to make the hole bigger until I had a better understanding of what to do.


texts: Why does my Goodman gas furnace sound like a jet plane when the  burner  kicks on.My fan kicks on first,then the heat comes on,but sounds like a jet firing up.


texts:
The service for the site was recently upgraded from 200 amps to 400 amps service.  The sub-panels were re-run from the new panel.  There are now a 200 amp panel, and two 100 amp panels.

I decided that I would like to know how much electricity is used on one of the 100 amp panels, so I put the old meter base in line ahead of that panel and purchased a used electric meter.

However, when I plugged it in, it runs backwards.  I cannot tell why and could use some help.

Here is a picture of the meter base inside and out.


texts: Do wall-mounted door stoppers with embedded springs provide any advantages over versions without a spring inside them?

texts: When taking a look at the various different types of available wall-mounted door stoppers, I've noticed two main types - ones that are simply mounted to a small hole that had to be drilled, and another similar option - the difference that this second version appears to have a spring inside it. Would there be any particular advantages of mounting a springy type - would the spring in the stopper provide more protection against the stopper itself if a door was hit hard into it?


texts: How does a water meter affect the continuity of a grounding electrode system when a jumper is present?

texts:
250.53(D)(1) Continuity. Continuity of the grounding path or the
  bonding connection to interior piping shall not rely on water
  meters or filtering devices and similar equipment.

  250.68(C) Grounding Electrode Connections. Grounding electrode conductors and bonding jumpers shall be permitted to be connected at the following locations and used to extend the connection to an electrode(s): [ROP 5–138]
  (1) Interior metal water piping located not more than 1.52 m (5 ft) from the point of entrance to the building shall be permitted to be used as a conductor to interconnect electrodes that are part of the grounding electrode system.

With regards to the two above quotes from the NEC 2014, how does the existence of a jumper across the water meter affect the continuity of the grounding electrode system? In particular, my grounding electrode conductor is terminated approximately four and a half feet from the point of entrance of the interior metal water piping to the building (satisfying the five foot requirement), but the water meter is approximately two feet from the point of entrance. I understand that the issue with the water meter is in the event that it needs to be serviced, a path of continuity might be compromised. In my case, this path would still exist due to the existence of a jumper, but does it matter that the jumper is a separate wire from the main grounding electrode conductor?

In other words, do I need to run an entirely new grounding electrode conductor?


texts:
My builder did (what seems to me) a cut rate job on my floors.

When I walk around in my house my table and entertainment center (and other such things) shake as I walk past them.  (Heaven help me if someone jumps!)

My basement is not finished, so I can get at the underside of my floors.  What can I do to make them more sturdy?

What immediately pops to mind is just go an measure and cut a bunch of 2x4s and put them cross ways.  Does that sound like a good idea?  Are there hidden gotchas?  Is there a better way?


texts: Anyone know how to get a cap or handle like this off?  No screws, no place to pry cap off, it doesn’t turn.


texts: Is there an objective way to measure how easily a sliding patio door is moving and if it is adjusted properly?

texts:
Is there an objective way to measure how easy a sliding patio door is moving and if it is adjusted properly?

I just installed my sliding vinyl patio door and since it is slightly larger than usual (not a standard size by some companies) I am not sure if it should move easier or not

This is not the same as the question I asked previously about unequally adjusting the door rollers


texts: Need help with correct wiring when replacing a hardwired smoke detector

texts:
I was wondering if someone with some electrical experience or experience with these particular smoke detectors can assist with the replacement process.

I have a home security alarm system that has been inherited from the previous owner and there is a smoke detector connected to the alarm system that recently died.

My guess is that the smoke detector has been there for a decade already and now needs to be replaced due to old age. The old smoke detector is the System Sensor 2012H which has been discontinued. I want to replace it with the newer model System Sensor 2012/24 AUS.

The old smoke detector was installed on the ceiling and upon pulling it out, I noticed that there were different coloured wires coming from the ceiling that is wired to the terminals of the old smoke detector.

To replace the smoke detectors, it seems to be an easy matter of just attaching the coloured wires to their correct terminals to the new smoke detector. Unfortunately, the new smoke detector seems to have a lot more terminals than the old one and I am uncertain as to which wire should go to which terminals.

There are four coloured wires coming from the ceiling (black, white, red, and blue) and they are wired to the old smoke detector as shown in Figure 1. Note that the black wire is actually connected to the negative terminal in the photo even though it is drawn differently on the wiring diagram.

My guess is that for the new smoke detector, the black wire goes to the negative terminal, the white goes to the ground (GND) terminal, and the red and blue goes to the relay terminals. The problem is that I am not sure which wire and which of the relay terminals it should be connected to. I am thinking that one of them should go to the C terminal and the other should go to either NO or NC. The configuration that I am thinking of is shown in Figure 2. Is this correct?

EDIT:

This smoke detector was working until recently and the alarm has gone off in the past when it detected smoke in the house. It also used to blink a light to indicate that it was working but now it doesn't do that anymore. The black wire is connected to the negative terminal in the photo because on the device itself there is a negative symbol next to that particular terminal. It's a bit hard to see the symbol because the symbol is a protruding text coming out of the plastic cover itself similar to the text that you can see "constant horn indicates alarm". The diagram was taken from the manual and I don't know why but it seems to show the power input in the reverse order and conflicting with what is shown on the device itself.

System Sensor 2012H Installation Manual
System Sensor 2012/24 AUS Installation Manual

Figure 1: Old Smoke Detector Wiring

Figure 2: New Smoke Detector Wiring


texts: How do I get rid of fruit flies in my fridge?

texts:
Sorry in advance if this is the wrong place to post this.

In my fridge there are scores of dead fruit flies lying on the bottom. I rarely see any live ones in or outside the fridge, but, daily, there are dozens of dead ones both in the main part of the fridge and freezer compartment.

I've taken apart the seals and cleaned them to no affect. I've tried the juice and liquid soap trick and caught none at all. I've cleaned the fridge too, of course.

None are on any of the food in the fridge either. It's like my fridge is the elephant graveyard of fruit flies - they just go there to die.

Would anyone know how I could get rid of them?


texts: why does my gas fireplace pilot light go out after the flame on the logs reaches desired temperature and turns off?pilot lights OK and has a steady blue flame but each time the logs light then turns off when the flame to the logs reaches desired temperature the pilot light also goes off


texts: Theory: How do thermostats without a "C" common wire get powered?

texts:
My simple question is: When a thermostat has four wires: white, red, green, and yellow, the red is for 24V (AC?) and the white/green/yellow are for heat/fan/cooling. The role of the thermostat is to close red/24V to one or more of the other wires. The thermostat has 2 AA batteries, but given that the closing when "active" seems to be through relays, I don't see how those batteries could have any reasonable lifetime if they were powering the relays. How does the thermostat derive power from the available input wirings? Does it sink "milliamps" from the 24V and contact wires, but at a low enough current level to not trigger the relays in the furnace control? Or is something else going on there?
If I have an answer to this question, I'm happy!

Long background, relevant to the underlying problem I'm trying to debug:

I have a three-zone, single-stage, forced-air heating-and-cooling system installed in 2007. Zone 1 and 2 dowstairs. Zone 3 upstairs. For the longest time, I had problems with zone 3 (upstairs) heating when it's not supposed to, and not cooling efficiently when it was supposed to. The original installer wasn't really available for later service, but was low cost (ahem.) We had a more reputable service company come out and service the system, but they didn't find a problem. Finally, trouble-shooting this myself, I found that the damper for Zone 3 was wired backwards -- it would close when activating cooling for Zone 3, thus the cooling wouldn't be effective. Looking at the damper (three-wire, red/green/white,) the "red" wire went to the terminal labeled "G" and the "green" wire went to the terminal labeled "R." I switched them, and it seemed to work fine after that.

Two days ago, I noticed that the system would open the damper to zone 3 (the upstairs) if any zone called for heat. Because the downstairs is a lot cooler, it now calls for heat in the winter (we're in California,) and the upstairs ended up with 85 degrees heat, even though the thermostat was set to 65. When both downstairs zones called for nothing, the blower turned off and the damper closed for zone 3. I disconnected the thermostat wiring entirely for zone 3, and this behavior still holds today. My guess is that something has gone wrong in the programming for the microcontroller on the controller board, but I'm going to measure this system in full and verify everything before I start looking for replacements.

The control board is labeled "2002 Research Systems Corporation," and matches a very old manual scan I found online for an Aprilaire Model 6203. The current manual for that same model number does NOT look the same. The furnace is a Tempstar SmartComfort (no discernible model number.) The thermostats are White-Rodgers "Classic 80 series."

Researching how heat/cool works here, I'm surprised how much of the smarts are in the thermostats. With a microprocessor board controlling the furnace / blower / cooler, I'd expect the thermostats to just be a temperature sensor and level setter, but apparently the wiring is plug-compatible with systems built in the '50s... The thermostats even do timing of purge and such, even though that's all re-done by the control board.

Final question: If I end up having to replace this system, is there some more modern system, where the thermostats speak something like RS-485+power over 4 wires, and the central unit is responsible for timing? And, ideally, perhaps the central unit has some wired IP-based read-outs? (but no cloud bullshit?)


texts: Flow sensor adjustment for Navien 240S natural gas fired tankless water heater

texts:
We installed a Navien 240S natural gas in our house, and it is working fine.

Except the short range for hot water valves in the showers. So, in other words, I need to turn shower valve almost all the way on to start the hot water. This leaves us a very small range to adjust hot water when taking a shower. My plumber explained that it is because the sensor is triggered only with a certain water flow. In general, the water pressure is high already. But there is just not enough flow until I turn the faucet almost all the way on.

Is there way to adjust the flow sensitivity for the sensor in the water heater?

My plumber suggests the following:
He can install some flow controls on the cold water pipe in each shower and set them to desired temperature range.

Is this a good solution?

I find it strange that I cannot adjust that sensor on the unit.


texts:
First off, please excuse my clunky use of electrical language.  I'm not exactly sure what I'm talking about.

I recently added a 220v/30amp outlet to my garage for the purpose of an electric homebrewing system.
After doing some reading, I see that it's highly recommended that the outlet be GFCI because giant pots of water + 220v is not a great combo.  The garage is detached from the house and the original wiring was not easy so I'm wondering, does adding a GFCI breaker require running a separate neutral line or is it just a matter of changing something at the outlet and breaker?


texts: OK to use plywood instead of hardieplank between two close windows?

texts:
I'm installing HardiePlank siding to a sunroom. It has lots of windows and some are very close. I'm using the method of putting the white trim over the Hardie Boards not beside them. (This is the way a contractor previously did our garage you can see in the background.) I will be putting trim around all the windows. These close together windows will have just this trim showing between them.

I'm wondering if I can get away with just putting plywood between the close windows instead of little pieces of HardiePlank as they'll be fully covered with the white trim anyway.


texts: Wire that was stripped inline and loops over the side screw

texts:
I found a light switch that has a wire that was stripped inline and then loops over the side screw. The same wire is also connected to a second switch.

Is this allowed? I thought that normally, it would be pigtailed.


texts: How far from the water intakes and drain do the receptacles for a stackable washer/dryer have to be and does code require a GFI?

texts: How far from the water intakes & drain do the receptacles for a stackable washer/Electric dryer need to be and does code require a GFI?


texts: Can a light circuit be split out of the ceiling fan?

texts:
I have 2 ceiling fan boxes wired (and properly anchored to a beam), with 12-3 wire and separately switched. Obviously the intention was for somebody to eventually hang 2 fans with integrated lights and allow the lights and fans to be controlled independently of each other (i.e. 2 lights on one switch, 2 fans on the other). I don't want to use lights on the fans and instead would like to install separate lights physically separate from the fans. The idea being to run new 12-2 wire from the fan box, using the switched red to power the fans and connecting the black on the new wire to the switched black in the fan box to power the lights and connecting the neutral in the box to the neutral of the new wire and likewise for ground. Assuming if this is allowed that I wouldn't need to use 12-3 and carry around the unused switched red.

Can I do that and still meet code, or do I need to run a brand new circuit for the lights? I'm not at home at the moment, and I'm assuming the red and black hot wire are both on the same phase since I don't recall there being a double-ganged breaker or having to switch them off individually when I tested them a couple weeks ago.

The reasons I'd like to avoid a new cable are:

The switches are on an exterior concrete block wall with a solid concrete header directly above them (Florida standard construction)
There are horizontal stiffeners in the walls making it even more difficult to fish through the walls
The installation is on the opposite side of the house from the attic access (far), the roof is constructed with trusses (difficult to move through) and I think I mentioned Florida (attic temperatures regularly exceed 140°F)

Otherwise, I'd happily fish a new cable through the walls and attic.


texts: Is this Orbit Sprinkler Timer (Model 57894) compatible with Rainbird Valve(s)?

texts:
I recently purchased an Orbit Model # 57894, and I'm trying to use it with these Rainbird Valves.

I've got it all setup and connected, however it won't turn on the sprinklers on schedule or on manual mode. Are these valves incompatible with this timer?


texts: How do I relight the pilot light on my Magic Chef stove?

texts: I have a Magic Chef stove (model: 31203KAW) which is not lighting/igniting.  We're using a butane lighter to light the stove-top burners (the gas still flows) but I'm nervous about turning on the oven "just to check" (visions of suicidal housewives are dancing in my head).  How do I relight the pilot light... if that's even what I need to do?  Help please.


texts: Is this the legal and best way to add power for bathroom fans?

texts:
Summary:

I would like to add bathroom fans in bathrooms #1 and #2 (see drawings). There are currently no fans. I believe the existing bathroom circuit layout is not up to code so I am looking for the best way to add these fans.

I live in Nevada (Washoe County) and the 2011 National Electrical Code applies to me.

Details:

Please see the following drawing where I have detailed how everything is currently laid out. The layout is just based on my understanding from turning the breakers on/off and pressing the "test" buttons on the GFCI outlets. I don't specifically know the order things are wired.

My understanding is that this is not compliant because several bathroom lights and receptacles are on the same circuit (#2 in the drawing) and there are non-bathroom receptacles on the circuit (per 210.11(C)(3)). I also believe that if I added something to this circuit I would have to bring it up to code, correct? Do you have any opinion on if it is safe to leave it how it is?

So, since I believe I cannot add the new fans to circuit #2, I am considering adding them to circuit #1 (see second drawing). My reading of the electrical code is telling me this is allowed, could you confirm this?

Drawing #1: Current circuit layout:

Drawing #2: Planned circuit layout:

Summary of questions:

If I added something to circuit #2 in the drawing I would have to bring it up to code, correct?
Do you have any opinion on if it is safe to leave circuit #2 how it is now?
Is it legal and a good idea to add the fans to circuit #1?


texts: Range Bernard lights and open lights light up however the burner to not get hot and the oven does not get hot

texts: My  Electric stove top burners on my GE range and he open on my GE range post light up when I turn them on however they do not heat up.


texts: Soft crumbling walls, electrical mounting box

texts:
I wonder if anyone can help.
 I'm having my kitchen refurbished including the electrics but when my partner tried to insert and secure the mounting boxes into the wall the plaster around it has crumbled away. There is now not enough plaster remaining to secure the mounting boxes in place. All the trunking and wires are in place now but we just have this one mounting box that we can't secure.
Is there a way to fix this issue?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you


texts: Temperature of water in the shower fluctuates - will a cheap thermostatic tap help?

texts:
I recently moved to an apartment where temperature of water in the shower fluctuates and we called for a plumber. He either cleaned up or replaced one part (I think it was the mixer - nothing visually changed), saying that it might because of stone buildup in the plumbing.

Unfortunately, the temperature still fluctuates (but maybe a bit less). Basically the problem is that in the middle of showering, the temperature can drop to one that is way too high or too cold (and then after maybe a minute drop back). This can happen about twice within 10 minutes.

I wonder if installing a cheap thermostatic tap would help here? My reasoning is that at the very least, it should help me avoid the temperature going too hot, am I right?


texts:
I'm trying to connect the phone lines in my new home. I have 2 lines given by my phone provider arriving downstairs in the apartment:

Then I have 2 RJ11 cables plugged into to the connections shown above which send the lines upstairs. However upstairs no connection has been made, I just have the 2 line cables. This is the connection I bought:

Now here are my questions:
Q1: Do you confirm that on the above pictures, holes 1-8 at the top are for the left-hand connection, and holes 1-8 at the bottom are for the right-hand connection?
Q2: Do I need to connect my white/blue wires back into the same holes, or do I need to change their position somehow?
FYI If I connect my modem directly to either of the connections shown in 1st picture, my internet works, so I know those lines are good :)


texts: Round metal duct leaking water at crimped joint

texts:
Noticed a water leak stain in my ceiling in the drywall. Cut a hole and noticed water drops dripping from the joint of a metal round air duct. This duct leads to an external air vent on the side of my house. It is currently extremely humid on the East Coast And I suspect that is somehow related. My plan is to seal the joint with mastic and fiberglass joint tapeIs. Is there anything else that I should do?

PS: In the above photo I have removed one sheet metal screw so there is a visible hole there


texts: What pressure rating should a replacement safety valve on a compressor have?

texts: The safety valve on my compressor is leaking air. I found plenty of places that have replacement valves and they look easy to replace. My question is how do I know which one to pick they all have a preset PSI. My compressor has an operating PSI of 115. I have found safety valves that are 100 and 125, I was assuming I needed one that was 115. A friend said that he'd expect I should go higher than the 115 so it wouldn't open the safety valve until higher than the operating pressure. Is this correct? What pressure should I be looking at?


texts: What should I do about cracks in the cement pan for a roll-in shower?

texts:
We are installing a roll-in shower. We poured the floor and after 2 days it has several cracks in it. I am not sure if they are all the way through.

Is there any way to fix this or do we have to take the cement out and start over?


texts: Can I easily add a thermostat to a whole-house fan?

texts:
Is there a straightforward way to add a thermostat to an existing (basic no-frills) whole-house fan? I'd like to be able to set it to shut off when the outside temp rises to a certain point--so that the fan shuts off automatically in the early morning.

A simple timer would probably be fine. Could the fan easily be wired to an off-the-shelf HVAC thermostat? (...and program the thermostat to turn off the fan at X a.m. if the indoor temp is above 0 degrees, say...) There is an existing central HVAC thermostat that could be replaced or added to if needed.


texts: A/C tune-up: "Condenser fan motor drawing high amperage"

texts:
A local A/C company was offering a deal on a home heating/cooling "check-up". I've never worked with this particular company before, and I've had some bad experiences in the past (different home, different state) with stuff like this. I wasn't there when the guy did his inspection, and the result was:

  Condenser fan motor drawing high amperage. Advise to replace soon.

  $350 - 10% = $315.

We have other rental properties in the area, and I'd like to establish whether these folks are reputable so that I can continue to do business with them in the future.

Can anyone with A/C or HVAC experience suggest a way that I can confirm that this isn't just a manufactured or exaggerated problem, and that the cost is reasonable? I'm not against calling another tech from a different company out to see if s/he returns the same diagnosis...


texts: Replace plasterboard (drywall?) around window

texts:
firstly my question is about plasterboard, which I think may be called drywall in the US?

Anyway, during the last few winters it had become damp and is just falling apart. Last summer someone had a quick look for me and it turns out it was caused by a blocked air vent - this has been fixed and there was no dampness last winter and is fine now, so I think it just needs the plasterboard replaced.

As can be seen from the picture, the entire vertical section of the window (question 1 - what is the name for this part of the window?) needs to be replaces plus a small section of the wall.

If I go pulling the old board off, what will I find behind it? How will I fix  the new board on? I can put my fingers through some holes that have formed, near the actual window there is bricks behind (with a small gap) and at the wall side there appears to be nothing.

How would I join up the corners?

Also, if I can't tackle this myself, is this a big job  for a pro? There is a  site where I can get quotes - would  this go in the Plaster or General Builder category?

Thanks!


texts: Why were my appliances and air conditioner failing to start for a short period?

texts:
I had noticed, after taking a long shower last night before heading for work, my power to my condo unit was flickering on one side. I have a hot water tank, an older Fridge, and a 15,300 BTU 120 volt air conditioner all on the same side of my unit, thinking they may be sharing the same line in to my circuit breaker.

In any event, there was some major flickering, it lasted about 5 minutes, where the A/C was not turning on, but trying to turn on, my whole side of my unit, where the A/C is on, that side, my Fridge was turning off and on, I mean clicking very loud, my electric stove was beeping off and on (that was on off), my lights were dimming, and then shutting off and back on, it was if the one side of the house was possessed. I unplugged my A/C because I couldn't power it down normally, and flipped all the circuits off and back on, and in about 10 minutes, the power seemed to be okay. This happened ONLY on one side of the condo, the other side had a steady stream of electric, the lights were all okay.

Do you think I had too much on one side of my unit pulling too heavy a load, or do you think the power company pulled back a bit from a larger load in my neighborhood, or is this something I should be totally concerned about?


texts: Dual Flush Conversion not sealing anymore

texts:
About a year ago we bought a dual flush conversion kit for the very old and very high-capacity toilet in the house we just purchased. I don't remember the exact model, but I believe it either was this one or something very similar:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-HydroKit-Toilet-Repair-with-Dual-Flush-Converter-HYR451T/202762847

Now, it worked fine for about a year (although I was a little disappointed that it wouldn't always flush away toilet paper with the small flush), but now it seems like it's leaking slowing into the bowl causing the valve to periodically open refill the tank. Obviously this kills the whole point of saving water with the dual flush.

I think the problem is with the blue rubber gasket. You are supposed to just push it over the opening to the tank and it's supposed to just seat itself. It was doing that for a while, but now as much as I've tried jingling it and reseating it, it's still letting water drain into the bowl. I couldn't see any visible damage to the rubber, so I'm guess it's just lost some elasticity.

Short of buying a new dual flush kit (which I'm not keen on doing if they will only last a year) or going back to a regular flap value and giving up hope of saving water or getting a brand new modern toilet (which we might do eventually, but isn't something I'm comfortable doing myself), does anybody have any experience or ideas for making this seat more reliably? I thought maybe some type of silicon sealant of something, but obviously I don't want to glue it in to the extent that I can't get it out again if I need to.


texts: How can I fix poorly stained pine trim with routing grooves and rosettes?

texts:
We are trying to stain pine trim pieces that have heavily routed grooves and also rosettes for the corners.  The trim is looking zebra-like with dark-light-dark light patches. The rosettes have circular routings which are taking the stain in many different ways so they look like many variances of color/finish.

Can anything be done to fix the stain on the existing pieces, or do we need to buy new pieces?
How can I sand these pieces without damaging the routing lines?


texts: Is there a rule about minimum rise of a vent pipe before it can run horizontal?

texts: I am replacing my shower/bath, including removing the wall that houses the vent pipe (the new unit is free-standing). To make the repiping easier, I want to redirect the tub vent pipe to merge with the vent stack for the double sink, which is about 7 feet away. My plan is for the tub vent pipe to start vertical, then almost immediately turn to run horizontal for that 7 feet, then vertical again (with some maneuvering) to merge into the vent stack for the sinks. I know vent pipes can be run horizontal as long as there is a slope, but is there a rule about minimum rise distance of a vent pipe before it can run horizontal?


texts: Which method of framing a soffit around rectangular ductwork maximizes ceiling height?

texts:
I need to put a soffit around 18"(W) x 8"(H) x 23'(L) rectangular HVAC ductwork in my basement and I am very near to the minimal code requirements for ceiling height for obstructions before adding a soffit.

If possible, the ideal solution would result in a soffit that is up to code (International Residential Code), structurally sound, and takes up less than 1 inch of additional space below the ducts. The one inch requirement is a finished height that includes 1/2" drywall or another material approved for fireblocking that would result in a nice finish. The soffit framing can extend horizontally as far as needed without creating any issues.

If my request of one inch or less in lost height is not possible, then I am still interested methods that minimize height loss and lead to a code-approved and structurally sound soffit.


texts: Ceiling fan with light kit won’t power on

texts:
Having trouble Hooking up a new fan. Fan came with light kit and remote control. I have two switches on the wall. One for light, one for fan control. I have two powers and a neutral coming out of the ceiling. The light kit has 3 wires with a clip, and then a red and a white. I capped one of the powers coming out of the ceiling, and hooked up the other power to the red. I tied the grounds together as well (the picture doesn’t show that though). Still doesn’t power on. Can anyone assist?

See attached. The directions aren't even correct though. It states the fan comes with a white wire with red label, mean while it's a red wire with white label.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts: Loud noise from outdoor unit several seconds after AC turns off

texts:
I haven't been able to find anyone online with quite this issue... I have a Carrier heat pump system, and through the winter it would often make that torpedo noise when heating the house (I later learned this is defrost mode to melt condensation that has frozen). It seems my AC system goes into defrost mode more than necessary, as I live in Florida and the temperatures are rarely below freezing, even at night. I do remember reading that humidity alters the freezing point somewhat. I also read there's a hack to get defrost mode to turn on only when necessary, rather than when the system "thinks" there is ice buildup.

Anyway, now that it's the hottest time of the year, I periodically hear a similar torpedo-shooting-like sound come from the outdoor unit. This happens several seconds (about 10 seconds) after the exhaust fan turns off. I have a Nest thermostat and so the air handler fan will run for a minute or so after the outdoor unit turns off. This noise is not made every time the outdoor unit shuts off, and seems to only happen at night, when my thermostat moves the temp from 78 to 74.

The only info I could find was that a spring was bad in the compressor, and it's a sealed unit so replacing it would mean replacing the whole outdoor unit. Is this a good use of my home warranty (it is covered)? Assuming this is something I can ignore, it is next to my bedroom window, and wakes me up at night.


texts:
I’m not an electrician, but I sure have added LOTS of lights and switches in my home. I’m almost done remodeling my basement and have just noticed that I have been splicing into the white/neutral wire for my light switches, and I should have been using black/hot.
All my lights turn on and off just fine. Do I need to go back and switch those to black/hot? If so, why?


texts: Can I use the cutout for a drop-in sink to install an undermount sink?

texts: My daughter has bought another home with granite counters and a drop in sink.  Can a professional put in an under the counter sink  in the existing  hole with some modification by him or is this just simply impossible?


texts: The plaster on one wall of my basement has blown and come away from the wall. I've stripped it all off which leaves a layer of concrete painted with bitumen.  What's the best method for sealing off more water coming in? When I started to strip back the bitumen layer I hit a pebble!! It appears that there is not brickwork down there instead perhaps the foundation? The wall also has a custom built stair case running up it which complicates things further.


texts: How do I repair screw holes in a brick wall?

texts:
I have screw holes which were put in to support a curtain rail. The curtain's been pulled out a few times by accident, and now the screw holes are crumbling and I don't know how to repair that portion of the wall.

I want to get it firm again, then re-drill and put the rail back up. It's a plastered brick wall.

What should I do to repair the crumbling holes in the wall caused by the dislodged screws?


texts:
Washing machine: GE GTW490

One day heard a washing machine trying to drain when it was inactive. Unplugged it and plugged it back in, still tried to drain on start up. Now every time it starts it tries to drain itself

There are no visible water in the machine. It's a top loading one. I've checked the drain pump and it seems to work when plugged in. No water is in the hose or pump.

Took it apart and can't see any mechanical problems. Won't enter the diagnostic mode as the manual states. All LEDs should blink but only the first left one does. Pressing start does nothing (should display an error code on LEDs)

Update: got it to enter a diagnosis mode (wait for machine to initialize and then hold the button). Gave a binary error code: ...*.. or 4 "UI software version non-critical


texts: What should I do about wet insulation in my attic and walls?

texts:
We had a lot of snow this winter. In spring when it melted we got water back up from under the eaves trough in our cottage. We now have water damage in our attic along the north and south walls in the kitchen, living room, bedroom and bathroom. The ceiling is sagging in one spot in the living room and on the bedroom walls in three areas the paint has rippled down to the floor. Also the rugs are stained badly. We were not out at the cottage for a couple of weeks and have been waiting for the insurance adjuster to come out and assess the damage.

My question is does all this wet insulation in attic and walls have to be removed and replaced, and what about the drywall, does it have to be cut out and redone? Also do they need to do something to combat the risk of mold in the walls and roof?


texts: Is it a good idea to pay for an energy saving audit of my new home

texts:
We have a newly built home but I'm not at all confident in the builder's prowess when it comes to energy conservation.  Is it worth hiring someone (like our energy provider or other specialized contractor) to do an energy audit?  Or do you think they would most likely find something whether or not there was a problem so they can charge us more for the fix?

If no energy audit, does anyone have any tips for the best ways to look for these "leaks" myself?


texts:
I have a two gang box with a dimmer switch to recessed lights AND a remote switch to operate a fan/light.  There are 3 romex bundles leading into the box, however, only one of the black wires is HOT, one apparently does nothing, and one leads to  BOTH the recessed lights AND the fan/light fixtures.

I removed the remote switch a couple years ago when it stopped responding, and do not recall how it was wired previously.  Any help here would be appreciated.  Happy to further elaborate.  For reference, I have a included a picture of a similar two gang box setup, and the specific box with switches removed.


texts: Why do my LED lights turn on for split second when I turn ceiling fan on/off

texts:
when i turn on/off fan, i see my LED lights are on for a split second. is it because of bad wiring? my issue is very similar
exact same issue which i found on other post

any idea why they are turn on for split second? thanks in advance


texts: How can I fill a void in a concrete seawall?

texts:
My concrete seawall (on a freshwater lake) has a void in a bottom corner.  It seems to have been created with the void -- it's not a result of trapped water freezing and pushing out a chunk.  I'd like to fill the void to avoid future possible erosion.  Multiple questions:

Should I fill it while it's warm and underwater (summer/fall), or dry but cold (winter)?
What should I fill it with?


texts: How do I remove a fish smell from my freezer?

texts: Yesterday, the electricity was out for a while and I guess some of the fish in my freezer warmed up and juices started flowing out of its bag and into the vent. Now there is a fishy scent creeping up from the back of the fridge. Is this something I can just wait out or should I do something about it? I did clean out the freezer and everything looks immaculate in there now.


texts: What is this pipe component in my gas range connection?

texts:
I need to replace gas supply line for my gas range. Please look at picture of my existing supply line connection.

Red arrow shows shuttoff valve.
What is blue part ? Is that kind of extension coupling ?
Where do I need to disconnect old line from ? From yellow nut ?


texts:
What sort of store does one go to to buy stair parts?

I want to buy treads, risers, newels, balusters, but Home Depot and Lowe's don't have much of a selection. Are there better types of stores that would carry these parts? Google searches only reveal stair specialists (installers) and I am weary of buying parts online.

I'm in California, it it matters.


texts: Does it make sense for a freezer to work , but the refrigerator to not work?

texts:
We have a relatively new fridge (~2 years).  Its got the double door over/under freezer, but the door has a weird way that it closes in that it can get stuck open very easily.  The fridge was left open most of the day by out of town house guests.  Its been closed most of the evening, but it still doesn't seem to be cooling off.  Going to give it overnight and see how it goes.

The freezer is still cold, though.  So my question is, at least as an initial troubleshooting step, does it make sense for the fridge portion to not be cooling, but the freezer still freeze?


texts: How to operate automatic sprinkler system anti-siphon valve

texts:
I have an anti-siphon shut-off valve that is leaking.  I'd like to replace it and noticed there are 'automatic' valve with solenoids installed.  This made me wonder if I should be leaving my valve open at all times, which caused the leak.

Should I be walking out every morning and night to switch the manual anti-siphon valve on?


texts: How do I hard wire new oven to existing wires?

texts:
I need to connect new replacement GE double wall oven wires to house wires where old oven wires were connected.  Existing house wires are:  black, red, white, and
bare copper.  New oven has black, red, and  the white/copper wires are clamped together.  How do I connect the oven white/copper clamped wires with the house white and copper wires?  Power is off at box.  Verified wires from house are dead.  Thank you!


texts: I have heard stories about miswiring and other, less accidental ways that power gets stolen, especially in rentals and condos. I would like to protect myself from false charges if I end up moving into one. Are there safe and legal ways to stop other people from stealing power from the line I'm paying for?


texts: How can I attach lumber for a shelf so that screws are not seen?

texts:
So I'm making a simple shelf like the one in the picture.  I asked the home depot guy and the guy told me to use regular screws and then use filling to cover up the holes, something I already knew.

I asked if there's a way to attach them so that the screws couldn't be seen, but he didn't know.

So how can I attach these two pieces is wood so that the screws cannot be seen from the top?


texts: How many computer chargers can I put on 1 electrical outlet?

texts:
I am trying to create a computer charging station. I have many laptops and Android Tablets that I would like to charge at once.  Assuming I wire it correctly, how many adapters can I put on 1 plug?

Laptops are 40W charger cords.

Tablets are 10W charging blocks.


texts: Wiring multifunction fixture to 2 switches, 2-wire cables

texts:
I'm replacing a fan in a bathroom. The setup I have currently cannot be changed with new wiring. I can add pigtails but I can't run a new 3-wire cable through the chase. Power supply runs to the fan box first. The old combo fan and light were independently operated on a double switch. 2 separate 2-wire (plus ground) cables are running from the fan box to each side of the double switch. I don't know how the old fan-light combo was wired but the double switch had the grounds tied together in the switch box (but not grounded to anything); 2 white wires hooked up to two black screws on the right side of the double switch; and 2 black wires hooked up to the brass-colored screws on the left side. There were no other wires in the switch box and no jumpers or pigtails there.

The fan that I purchased is the Delta Breeze Green Builder with combination LED light, fan, and automatic humidity sensor GBR80HLED. The fan comes with three pairs of wire and a ground. One pair is white and black labeled power. One pair is white and blue labeled mode. One pair is white and red and not labeled.  Instructions do not show how to wire with power to fixture first. They show using either three or two switches connecting blue to blue and red to red, neither of which I have in my cabling.

I would like to use existing wires and set it up so that mode (humidity sensor) is always on, one switch controls light, and one switch controls manual on fan for odors. Help with a diagram?


texts: Is this 230V steampunk metal robot lamp safe?

texts:
I bough a steampunk robot lamp from ebay. It is made out of (painted) metal fittings. After receiving it, I was a little concerned regarding safety and disassembled it. The plug suggests that this is a class II appliance, but the individual wires aren't double insulated and just connected via wire nuts. Is this safe? If not, what would be the best action?
I couldn't find any CE mark on the lamp. They also supply a super cheap looking 5W LED bulb, which has a CE marking on the package (but not on the bulb).
I kind of expected that this item would be safe, because it shipped from the Netherlands and therefore should conform to EU safety standards (it isn't like I'm directly importing it from China).
Update: I contacted the seller and according to him this is "not a problem", but they offered me to return the product (to a German warehouse).

Very regrettable. The European plug is like this, the product is no
problem, If you need to return the product, please install it and send
it to this address: Ma Kun (Jbingo) Tilburgstrasse NSR GMBH. 15, 41751
Wilson ☆Note: Please write down the product number, order number and
eBay buyer ID on the paper, and put it in the return package so that
our warehouse can identify it, thank you. ☆ Please provide us with a
photo of the tracking number or logistics ticket, and then we will
refund you in full. Thank you for your understanding and wait for your
reply. Greetings

What a strange arangement. The seller is a Chinese company that ships the item from the Netherlands (according to the product description) and has a warehouse for returns in Germany. This sounds to me like an intresting way to get around safety laws and to be unreachable for any lawsuits.


texts: DC current for reconstructed house with new extension

texts:
I am hoping this could be the right forum for this kind of question. I recently bought a house that is going to have major structural changes and an extension that will basically be new-build. I am pretty much a novice to all this.

I am thinking about the electrics, naively, and wondering what kind of cost savings and simplifications could be achieved by trying to run DC around the house.

My thinking is that

I want efficient (LED?) lighting (DC)
If necessary, perhaps I could pipe the light by cheap fiber optic, if that ends up being part of the solution
Most things I use around the house either run off DC or will be rechargeable via USB anyway.
I will still need a few AC sockets for things like the hoover, but not many

I am aware that low voltage DC will suffer voltage drop and power loss, and that fat cabling to compensate would make that more expensive, but what I am thinking is that because this is so early in the construction, are there any opportunities for taking advantage of decorative or structural elements as electrical conductors?

Can I use steel reinforcements, even in steel-concrete, as the DC distribution network?
Other structural and/or decorative elements such as aluminium bars, copper plates and etc., that when arranged could also serve as DC distribution

In short, in our current home it seems absurd at face value that we have all these little USB adapters and chargers lying around, transformers, wall-warts, bricks and etc., when it seems all I really need is a USB socket in a wall.  I am wondering if there is any realistic way of achieving this that makes general sense.


texts: 3 led pot light in bathroom blink when turn fan on for a second but stay off

texts: I have 3 led pot in my bathroom with my pot light off I turn my fan off and on some times the pot light blink for a second but stay in the off position


texts: Acceptable voltage between earth, Line,Neutral - Single Phase

texts:
I have a 240V+-10V 2 Wire Single Phase (UK) supply with TT earth bonding (earth rod).

The breakers are double pole.

The issue is with a lighting radial circuit.

This is a new electrical installation and the electricians are about to finish.

The lights that are connected to the circuit power up fine.

One light is not yet connected to the switched live.

With one CB on I probed (using a multimeter, I aware this might not be the best way to test) between Neutral and earth and there was 230 Volts.
I probed at a fixture (neutral to earth) and again, 230 Volts

What is an acceptable voltage between Live/Line and Earth?
What is an acceptable voltage between Neutral and Earth?
Should there be voltage between live or neutral to earth?

Is voltage between neutral and earth normal or could there be a fault?

This video states that there should be 0-0.5V between earth and neutral

This post on Quora states that

  A rule-of-thumb used by many in the industry is that Neutral to ground voltage of 2V or less at the receptacle is okay, while a few volts or more indicates overloading; 5V is seen as the upper limit.


texts: With a shower, should the edge where the wall meets the floor be caulked, or is grout okay?

texts: Some of the shower tiles have come loose in my shower and need repair (specifically the ones at the base of the wall).  There's no 'tub' per-se, the whole thing is tiled, and it looks like whoever installed it used grout for the edge where the wall meets the floor.  Assuming everything else goes well... is it better to caulk the bottom edge?  Or is it okay to just use grout?


texts: this natural gas pipe comes out of the wall to the back of my stove. The other side of the wall is the brick exterior of the home. However the previous owners didn't add on to the house like a porch that is only zone heated with electrical heat when desired. That means the other side of the wall is very cold during the winter. I can often feel a draft coming out of this area around the pipe. My question is is it safe to fill the gap with something like big stuff gap filler or is there something better to use. I'm mostly concerned about it being a gas pipe but I could just be overthinking it.


texts:
About 2 days ago we noticed that a 20 amp (single pole) circuit breaker was tripped. Ok not a big deal, it's doing it's job. Then I noticed that the breaker was tripping even with a single light on. Then it finally came to an end, I was unable to get the breaker to stay in the "on" position at all it would immediately trip.
At this point I thought ok the breaker was pretty old, had never tripped itself before now it's constantly being tripped. I do have some experience with home electrical systems. I have installed several breakers in existing boxes before when I had a job working HVAC. Anyway I thought that there was a possibility that the breaker had went bad, so off I go to get a replacement.
Now here's where I am getting into my real problems--the wire that was and still needs to be connected to the new breaker to finish the circuit and say yay it's been fixed now and possibly is the main cause of all of the issues has no power!! It is essentially a dead line. I found this out when everything was connected back together and honestly better than it was flip the breaker on and immediate trip!!!
How do I find where the dead wire goes and what are possibilities of why it has zero power coming through it.


texts: Can I install wood floor on adhesive left from old linoleum floor?

texts: We are installing about 100 ft.² of interlocking hardwood on the floor where the linoleum peeled off but the glue adhesive is still stuck on the floor. The floor is very level, and we tried scraping off some of the adhesive but it was taking forever. Can I simply lay the new hardwood on top of the old dried-up adhesive?


texts: Honeywell zone panel turning on cool of instead of heat

texts:
The main HVAC unit in my house is set up on two zones, the main part of the house and the master bedroom, using the Honeywell HZ322 panel. It's a little over five years old. About a week ago the heat stopped working in the master bedroom but was still working fine in the main part of the house. Calling for heat from the bedroom would blow cold air but emergency heat was working. I've tried three different thermostats but the problem has been unchanged. The exact symptoms have been changing and at a couple points the heat started working again for a while. I went under the house and was able to operate everything normally from the controls on the zone panel but I discovered that when the thermostat calls for heat "cool" was lighting up and I could hear the compressor come on. At that point the thermostat was blinking heat on, then solid heat on, then auxiliary heat came on and then the system would turn off. Now, it goes through the same sequence on the thermostat but the system never turns on and the thermostat never turns off but continues to say heat on and auxiliary heat on. Has my board gone bad?

Thanks!


texts: How can I apply paper covering to a glossy ceiling?

texts:
Ours is a 1911 SD house. We have a bedroom measuring 4.1M x 4.3M. We are about to redecorate the room. The ceiling (original plaster and lathe) finish is not the best and was formally gloss painted over to seal the flaking surface.

I was going to use Erfurt Wallrock Fibreliner paper with Wallrock power adhesive. However I'm told by the manufacture that the gloss would have to " be scraped off first".

If that is the case it would be easier to overboard and skim, any experience, ideas or knowledge of gloss finish ceilings?


texts: How do I paint the steel crossbeam on a colorbond fence?

texts:
I have a colorbond fence.

If you don't have colorbond in your area, it's painted steel panelling that can be used for fences or roofs. My fence looks like this:

But what you can't see is the back - there is an unpainted steel crossbeam.

I'm thinking about painting the crossbeam. Is there any particular preparation I should undertake with the steel?

I've heard I should sand it. And I should use a spray rather than brush... Does anyone have experience with this?


texts: Standing Fan seizing up only when powered

texts:
I have standing fan, it has a simple 0-1-2-3 pushbutton switch system with a timer.
A few days ago it stopped working. If I try pushing the blade (with an insulated screwdriver, of course, not with my fingers) there's clear resistance before it spins for roughly one rotation then seizing up again.
If I power the fan down (pressing 0 or unplugging it or turning the timer to "off"), the blades can rotate freely. No resistance (aside from initial inertia), no seizing up. Pushing the blades hard will cause it to rotate several times before stopping due to (seemingly normal) friction.
What could be the problem with this fan? And how do you suggest I fix it?