texts: How to attach closet flange to sub floor

texts:
I recently removed my toilet and saw that a couple tiles underneath it were cracked, and on removing those tiles found the plywood beneath the tiles had rotted out.  So I removed any tiles under the bad plywood and removed the plywood down to the sub floor plywood, which is in good shape.

My plan is to cut a piece of cement board to accommodate the new tiles, but I am not certain of how to secure the closet flange.  Right now only one of the four screws is still intact, presumably due to the rotting of the plywood.

Do I use cement board screws and secure the flange down on the backer board? Or do I leave a gap and try to screw the flange down into the plywood?


texts: How can I seal a gap between floor joist boxes and foundation?

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I have an unfinished basement that always has tons of beetles, spiders and cold air (yes I know most basements have this, but it is more than normal). I finally decided to take a piece of insulation out that sits on top of the foundation between the floor joists and there is a gap between the top plate and floor joists where you can see light getting into the house and a substantial amount of cold air coming in.
Is there any reason I can't fill this gap with something? Also would you guys use expandable insulating foam or something different. Blow are pictures for reference.


texts: How do I fix a bathroom light Fixture that is falling off the wall?

texts: The light fixture in my bath room is falling right off the wall . Can anyone tell me what I'll need to fix it and how to fix it?


texts:
On the amazing The Fletcher Capstan Table video, I can see some very useful metal fittings, but I can't for the life of me find them anywhere. This is probably because I don't know what they're called.

I'd describe them as metal biscuits, which allow two pieces of wood to come together edge to edge, and align perfectly flush.


texts: How do I insulate my Laddomat 21 boiler charger?

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I have a mixing device Laddomat 21 installed for my boiler + accumulator tank. I have all pipes around the boiler insulated with pre-formed moulded mineral wool insulation, but there is no insulation on the Laddomat unit. As the unit is quite hot (70-90 deg.C) and its metalic area quite large, I assume the thermal loss on it can be substantial. For newer/large models the manufacturer is selling a ready to use insulation from EPP (see image), but there is none available for this type.

How could I make a DIY insulation for it? If possible, the insulation should be possible to take apart if some service is needed on the Laddomat.


texts:
Not quite home-improvement, however the engineering question lends itself to the expertise of the fine folks in this forum.

I am interested in pressurizing a hopper of tennis balls with a device like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03Ml7_A78yo

I would like the device to be limited to 12 PSI, so I am thinking a pressure relief valve for safety and that for simplicity, an electric pump to bring the pressure to 12 PSI and shut off automagically at the target presure.

Is there a simple and inexpensive control mechanism that can cut off the electric pump when it reaches the target pressure.  Ideally one could 'dial in' the target pressure.

The goal is for the non-technical tennis player is able to quickly / easily / SAFELY pressurize and depressurize the container.


texts: How can I remove the old wood smell from furniture?

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My wife just bought an old cabinet from a consignment store. The inside has a strong old wood smell that we are afraid will infuse whatever we put inside.

How do get rid of the smell so we can use it without worrying about the odor attaching to out towels?


texts: My bathroom exaust fan was missing. Just the housing remained. I purchased a cheap fan and housing (Broan). After ripping the old housing out i discovered the new housing is not set up the same. Vent outlet and the mounting tabs are are on the incorrect side so cannot mount to exising joist in the attic. I have access to attic. But cannot figure out how to rectify the situation.  My issue is the actual mounting part. I can move the ductwork and electrical is easy. I just dont know how to mount the housing securely


texts: What adhesive can I use to reattach and seal these fractured tile pieces to my fireplace?

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I noticed one of the tiles above my gas fireplace had cracked and two large pieces were about to fall off, so I carefully removed them.  This fireplace has not been used in several years so the cracks most likely developed/propagated due to wind or vibrations. We got a lot of wind here and now I can feel cold air coming in from behind the tile.

My questions:

What type of adhesive does it look like was previously used here to attach the tiles to the metal enclosure of this gas fireplace?

After scraping off the previous dried adhesive, what type of adhesive should I use to reattach these pieces?
I see recommendations here for "thin set with an admix", "moose milk" and refractory cement", but I'm not sure which to pursue. Ideally I'd like to be able to buy a small quantity of something (rather than a large bucket) online (and avoid having to go to a store).

After the pieces have been reattached and have settled, if the cracks between the pieces are still visible and/or have air coming through, what could I use to apply into the crevice to ensure a seal? Preferably something clear or black to match the color of the tile.


texts:
This may seem like a silly question, but...

The scenario is that I'm adding a bit of storage underneath the bottom half of our stairs. Up until now it was just a closed in space that was being wasted.

So I pulled off the sheetrock and found a deserted mouse metropolis. LOADS of fiberglass insulation chunks mixed with a huge amount of seeds, mouse poison and mouse poop.

Eww.

Shop-vacced it all out, bleached every surface, sprayed it down with animal-pee descenter and went to work figuring it out.

Turns out the contractors were incredibly lazy in their hole cutting in the subfloor. There was huge gaps around the vent pipe and the electrical wiring that went down into the crawl space.

I went and got some rodent-proof great stuff and spray foamed all the openings and now it's all clean.

The question:

Before I close it all back (I'm adding some built in drawers in the front), should I toss in some mouse poison pellets? Is that a smart 'plan b' in case they get back up in there somehow, or is that only going to encourage them to get back up there because the poison attracts them?


texts: Is there a way to drill a 1"-diameter hole through 1/8"-thick steel using a standard cordless power drill?

texts:
I am trying to reinforce a custom door I am building.  Because it's made only of two layers of MDF, it is not as rigid as I want it to be and shows signs of bowing.  Since it's going to be a soundproof door, any curvature in the door will be detrimental to a tight seal around the stop.

The only low-profile solution to reinforcing the door that I have found is a 1/8"x1 1/2"x6' length of steel that I found at Menard's.  It is very ridgid and would be perfect for attaching along the inside edge of my door which is also 1 1/2" thick.  The problem is that I need to drill a 1"-diameter hole through it for the latch assembly, but I have no idea how I am going to do that with the cordless power drills that I have.


texts: How to attach horizontal wood fence posts at an 15 degree angle to a 4x4 post?

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Building a fence using redwood horizontal boards and 4x4 posts. I'm very green, and just want to ask what the best way to attach the boards on the outside to one of the posts, that is not aligned straight as its at a corner.
Its only about a 15 degree angle, so thinking I can just cut the board ends at and angle so it lines up to the post, and then just drill screws in.  Any problem with that, as I don't want to put in a second post next to the first post, as that seems like overkill, and just wanted to make sure that there is not some easy and obvious other solution?
Thanks!


texts: Installing an air gap in a concrete countertop

texts: I am remodeling my kitchen; pretty much all of the work except for installing a granite countertop. I am putting in a dishwasher (kitchen previously did not have one) and I would prefer to install an air gap whether or not the local codes require it. However, of the models I looked at on-line, only one discussed mounting support, and it couldn't be mounted on material thicker than 1.25". The countertop people will drill any holes I need for the faucet, etc., I just need to know how to actually fasten one of these things to a 2" thick surface. Any advice on brands that might be made especially for this, or any tricks for extending the fastenings that come with air gaps?


texts: How do I replace the number buttons on a keyless deadbolt?

texts: My keyless deadbolt works great, however the numbers are worn off the buttons.  Can the buttons be replaced without buying a new lock?


texts:
Is it normal to have voltage between shower faucet and drain?
I measured 2 volts between shower faucet and drain when water heater is off, and 11-12 volts when it is on?


texts: I am an avid DIY guy. I have tackled many projects in my new home of three years. Just recently installed a new dome light in the center of my son's bedroom. So here's my issue. Originally there was a wall sconce style light on the wall. I removed that light and the idea was to wire nut a longer line from the old wire to the new light location. When i removed the old light from the wall to expose the box I noticed the main source came in at the box. In this box it has 3 whips. 1 for the main source, one for the switch and another that apparently goes out to a hallway light right outside the bedroom. The hallway light has its own switch. So I hooked everything up to the best of my ability but now the only way you can use the light in the hallway is if you have the light on in the bedroom. I can't afford an electrician right now so any help is very much appreciated. I will draw a picture of my situation and post it if necessary. Thank you in advance.


texts: How can I attach angled beams to a post?

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I'm designing a deck with 3-2x10 beams supported by 6x6 posts. I know when the beams go straight across the posts I can use any number of brackets designed for that purpose, like Simpson AC4 (or AC6, in my case):

But what about at corners where the beam isn't straight? I have 45 degree corners in my design:

I also have one place where one beam intersects another at a 45 degree angle:

What's a proper way to make these connections?


texts: How to wire cables - 2-gang switch 3 lamps

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I've got a 2-gang switch in the wall. It's connected to a cable in a ceiling, that contains 4 cables: black, brown, blue and yellow-green (not included in schema).

Schema:

Expected result:

Left part of switch turns on left lamp.
Right part of switch turns on right lamps.

I'm not sure if my schema is correct. Could anyone take a look and validate, please?

EDIT:

Thank you gentlemen for your input so far.
I need to clarify some things. I'm from Poland, so colors are standarized for Europe:

blue - neutral
green-yellow - protective conductor
brown - hot
black - hot

Here you have a switch. Two buttons:

left (black hot cable) - turns on/off left bulb.
right (brown hot cable) - turns on/off two right bulbs.

Schema:

This is a cable from the ceiling. Colors are I already mentioned above.

Will it work as I expect?


texts: Maximally Sealing Window Air Conditioner

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I have a window a/c unit (~23"w) I install into a small window (30"w) every summer.
What are the most efficient materials to use to maximally seal the large & small gaps to keep the hot outdoor air from entering the room?
I removed the a/c fins as they do nothing to insulate. I used towels & duct tape in the past but am looking for better and more efficient solutions.
Thanks


texts:
I want to build a floating deck with a pergola but I don't want to set posts in concrete.
My yard is mostly shale with about 5 inches of actual topsoil, if that.
My question is, could I put treated 4x4 or 6x6s on the ground and anchor them with rebar, going straight through and into the shale? Or would that be too weak to hold it? So posts on the ground, held down with rebar, and then the vertical posts attached to the horizontal ones.
The highest winds we get in my area would be around 50mph, so I'm trying to figure out if the weight of the deck and pergola, plus the rebar anchors, would be safe enough.


texts: How to fit waste water pipe into back inlet gully?

texts:
I'm replacing some waste pipes and drainage and need to know what is the best way to fit the waste pipes (from washing machine and sink) into the hopper / gully. The hopper I am using looks like this:

It seems there are two ways I can get the waste pipes into the hopper:

1) Through the black plastic top. The solid part (over the shallow end of the hopper) has two circles marked on it. I assume I can drill these out and stick pipes in. The pipework would be visible this way.

2) The side and back inlets (two of which are visible in the picture). Again, I assume I can drill these out and stick pipes in. The pipework would be hidden underground this way, which I would prefer.

Is there any disadvantage with either of these approaches? If I use the underground approach how should I seal the pipes into the hopper? Or am I not supposed to use the underground inlets for this purpose?


texts: What sealer can I use for upstairs bathroom floor I have ceramic tile and it’s leaking on kitchen ceiling. I want a seal between tile and baseboard.


texts: how to connect C wire for ecobee lite to Weil-McLain EG Series-5 gas steam boiler

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I want to upgrade from a battery powered Honeywell thermostat to an ecobee3 lite.
This is for heat only.

My current Honeywell has two wires: Red and White. Missing is the C cable.
There are enough wires in the cable in the wall they are just not connected.

The transformer on the boiler has the following terminals:

Y     W

G

C     R

Currently the red cable from the thermostat is connected to G.
The white cable from the thermostat is connected to Y.

Question: Where do I connect my 'c-cable' ? Is this a question of just connecting that one cable or would the entire transformer need to somehow re-wired ?


texts: Can I just cut power to a central air and heating system, or should I follow a shutdown procedure?

texts:
I am going to install some NEST thermostats. The directions say that I should turn the system off by turning off the power to it. However, I'm worried that an abrupt power cut will be damaging. Do I just shut off power to it, or do I need to do some sort of "soft" shutdown procedure to bring it down and back up?

What labels should I look for in the circuit breaker panel to turn the unit off? I see water heater and the like, but didn't see a label for "central heat".


texts:
I have a sliding glass door between a heated room, and a non-heated entrance. Here is a side view of said door :

The gap is 2-3 cm wide. How can I minimize that gap ?


texts: How to set up tap/faucet for cold water only?

texts:
I have a sink with two pipes connecting to the tap (a.k.a faucet) - one for hot and one for cold. There is no hot water in the house, so the hot pipe is disconnected. That means if you open the tap halfway between the hot and cold, the water just flows out of the disconnected pipe instead of the tap. My first thought was to just plug the end of this disconnected pipe, however I fear that this will result in water standing in the pipe leading to legionnaire's disease type problems.

This seems like a pretty common problem that probably has a standard solution, anyone know what that is?


texts: How can I secure a canvas carport to a concrete pad?

texts:
The canvas carport is just steel rods and a canvas roof. It came with steel foot pads with screw holes. I have a concrete pad to screw it down to. I need it to withstand 20-30mph winds and snow.

Should I use the steel foot pads that came with it, or do I need to buy something else? Is screwing into the concrete going to be secure enough?

this is the make and model King Canopy Hercules 18 Ft. W x 20 Ft. D Vehicle Ports. The instructions say to secure using the provided foot pads, but did not include any concrete screws.


texts: Is it okay to remove metal joints on the subfloor?

texts:
I’m trying to install SPC LVP with 7.5 mm thicknesses after removing pre-existed laminate and carpet.
I just noticed that there are metal joints on the subfloor which are about 3 feet long and 2 inches wide... any thought on what these are for?
(One in a room and two in the hallway on second floor)
Is it okay to remove it? Or is there any underlayment or any other item to avoid LVP on top of it not bending or making squeking sound?
Thanks!


texts: Can I pull a c-wire from a second nearby thermostat?

texts: I have a thermostat that controls the AC/Heat upstairs which is located on my bedroom wall. Right below that I have another Millivolt thermostat for the gas fireplace in my bedroom. If I want to upgrade the fireplace thermostat to a smart wifi that needed a c wire can I pull the 24 volts from the other thermostat? Thanks


texts:
There is a joint of some sort leaking in one of our cold water lines running above the drop ceiling in the basement. Does anyone know what this joint is called, or why it might be leaking? It's leaking from the opening (looks like you could attach a narrow water line to it), and tightening the nut below it didn't seem to help (though I didn't tighten too much for fear of damaging it).

Update: it looks like it's a saddle valve, though the handle is missing. Not sure what to make of that.


texts: Does a compression valve come with the tub insert and compression sleeve or they have to be acquired separately?

texts:
I would like to buy this (or any other 3/8 compression valve, not to make this specific for this product)
https://www.lowes.ca/product/38-in-dia-chrome-compression-quarter-turn-straight-valve-586694
Does it come with a compression sleeve and with the tube insert shown in the images below. Also does it work with both copper and the below 3/8" pressure rated tube?


texts: How do i unscrew this screw to take apart the bed frame

texts: I have a broken bed that I need to take apart to haul it to junk. How do i unscrew the screw in the picture? THere are several screws like that in the bed frame.


texts: Wiring gas hob with electric ignition to mains

texts:
We are currently in the process of moving into our newly renovated house. The electrician has completely rewired the house, and the plastering has been done. Only when we went to install the oven and hob did we discover that the electrician hadn't added a socket underneath the worktop for connecting the electronic ignition of our gas hob.

There is a cooker control unit (CCU) for the oven, but no single socket for the 3A plug of the hob. I don't want to drill through the work surface and lose the single socket on the CCU. My question is, can I simply hard wire a surface-mounted single socket to the cooker outlet, and then plug the hob's ignition into that?


texts:
Can I install a switch for my dishwasher?
The dishwasher is on a 15 amp circuit.  The plan would be to take the existing dishwasher wire run it to a box in the sink cabinet and place it high on the side cabinet wall.  Put the switch into this box and run a new 14/2 wire from the box to the dishwasher - switching the hot.
Newer dishwashers might require a 20amp breaker and I wonder if a switch would be rated for 20amps or if I have to get a special switch.
The breaker for the dishwasher is located in a suite that has the house breaker panel so I don't want to have to enter the suite to service the dishwasher.  Ideally the suite(s) would have their own sub panels but they don't.  The dishwasher is having issues so it will likely need to be serviced more than once.
The idea is I can turn the switch off and disconnect the dishwasher without access the suite and flipping the breaker.  The dishwasher has a problem with either the impeller, turbidity sensor, control board or a blockage in the discharge line.  The issue is intermittent and there is a workaround.  Notifying tenants for access and turning the breaker on and off and testing each thing when I get time makes the job 100% harder also in the future for replacing the dishwasher this makes it easier.  The newer or higher end dishwashers have a plug in option - dishwashers and wall ovens seem like the only appliances still hardwired that require breaker access to service.  Now that dishwashers are moving to outlet based installation, servicing requiring access to breakers is a thing of the past.


texts: Fixing previous wiring at switch for recessed lighting

texts:
I moved in to this house and the ceiling fan and recessed lighting worked (we did demo in the master and the lights worked). Painters came in right after that and the lights have never worked since. I figured they loosened a wire wh when they were working (as I knew nothing about switches). I finally checked the switch and everything was tight and the switches work. I have spend TOO much time trying to figure this out. :)

There were dimmers on the light switch and fan switch. I’m assuming this room previous had a light/fan combo. It now has 6 LED recessed lights and a fan. The “light” switch messes with the fan’s speed when we had the dimmers attached. I have both of them on 2 way switches. (The third switch in the box is a three way switch to an outlet across the room.)

I have black piggy backed wires from the big group of black wires going to each of the two pole receptacles to the bottom screws. Both are grounded. Coming from the same 14-3 (I think that’s what’s it’s called, Super green here), the black wire is going in to the top screw on the “fan” switch and the red wire (which is hot too) is going to the top wire on the “light” switch.

The lights don’t turn on. I took the LED lights out and screwed them in to a floor lamp and they turn on. I check the cans and they do not get power. I check the cans in another room the same way and they get power. Who will be my hero and help me figure this craziness out? I know I can call an electrician. But I really want to figure this puzzle out! Thank you!


texts: I need to skim coat an existing painted stucco facade with stucco to a sand finish, will it adhere if I use an adhesive on the facade and in the stucco mix or should I rotohammer dimples in the facade every 3-4 inches


texts: Which router bit was used on this 18mm plywood drawer front?

texts:
I have 18mm birch ply fronts for my kitchen and I'm trying to identify the correct router bit to use for making recessed drawer pulls. The ones I've been able to find all seem to be for much thicker wood.

This picture is from a company that use 18mm plywood for their drawers. It feels a little cheeky to ask them what bit they use though. Can anyone help me track down the correct bit?


texts: Is cement board that's been stored in the weather ok to use?

texts:
The previous owner of my home told me that the cement board he was going to use for a shower has been sitting outside (exposed to the weather) for about a year. The 4x8 sheets are still intact but seem to be less rigid than new cement board. Can I still use it?
I'm in Florida, so it would just be rain, heat, the sheets are sun bleached but intact. When I installed a sheet I noticed that there is a "slight give" between the studs so it is not as ridged as a new sheet. The tiles are big - 18X26 inches which will still make the wall solid and since the board is in good shape otherwise so the tiles will stick.


texts: Is it okay to throw paper towels & rags with mineral spirits in the trash bin?

texts: Newbie painter here. Is it okay to throw rags and paper towels that soaked mineral spirits into a plastic bag and then into the trash can?


texts: Why won't my electric baseboard heaters work?

texts:
I'm installing a 72" 240V baseboard heater in a home office. I ran 12/2 gauge wire, installed a 20 amp 2-pole breaker and 2-pole thermostat. I'm pretty good with electrical, and so I can confirm that all is connected properly. Yet I have no heat. I tested the line at the breaker, and I have 120V at each leg. All grounds are connected but no heat. If I take my probe and touch each screw on the breaker I have nothing. I thought I should have 240V on the tester.

What is happening and how do I fix it?


texts:
I have a leak in the trap underneath my bathtub. Specifically, the leak is happening at the union nut of the trap (see red circle in picture). I have confirmed that the nut at the union does not tighten and is busted meaning I will need to replace the entire trap. Since the pipes are ABS and thus are sealed with ABS cement, I am assuming they are not removable thus requiring me to cut them off the input and output pipes (see yellow dotted lines).

Does this seem like the right approach? My concern is that after I cut off the P trap, a replacement P trap will not align correctly with the existing input and output pipes since it will have to be fitted higher than the old trap. What is the correct solution to have the replacement trap match the heights of the input/output pipes?


texts: How to prevent moisture problems in newly-sealed crawlspace from the 1800's

texts:
I'm renovating a Virginia home from the mid-1800's.  The house is balloon frame construction, sitting on top of maybe four layers of brick, sitting directly on top of the dirt.

In the past, the crawlspace was not sealed and there was a lot of air movement under the house due to gaps in the foundation, which I have closed off with bricks and mortar.  Half of crawlspace is inaccessible (no room to move under the floor joists), and the other half has a shallow access trench for the plumbing.

Presently, I have managed to poly and seal the half of the house with the access trench.  My question is what to do about the other half of the house?
There is no way to access it.  There is a dirt floor, and no ventilation at all.  By sealing up the accessible area, I have cut off all ventilation to the inaccessible area.

This house has never had air conditioning or insulation, but it does now.  By installing these two things, I have significantly changed the environment of the house.  I cannot assume the crawlspace will behave as it did over the past 100 years, during which it stayed dry and free of mold.
Should I vent the dirt portion of the crawlspace by cutting vents into the foundation, or do I leave the dirt portion closed up?

Physical access to the dirt portion is not an option either way.


texts:
I bought a Magnum airless paint sprayer to paint the exterior of a house.  I'll be using latex paint (probably Behr from Home Depot).

I'm wondering which quality of paint would work best in it. Behr paints are available in three quality tiers, and I know from experience that paying a little more for the second or third tier is worth it. The paint is much less runny, which makes it easier to work with when brushing and rolling.

But with the sprayer, I'm wondering if it would actually be better to have a cheaper, runnier paint. It seems like a thicker paint would have a harder time coming through the sprayer.

Thanks in advance for any tips on this.


texts: What's the best way to relocate my wall vent?

texts:
I recently removed a closet in our main living area and one of the closet walls contained an AC supply vent. This left a 4x12 hole in the floor where the old stack head was removed. While we could just buy a flush floor register cover before our floors get refinished tomorrow, I'd rather relocate the vent in the remaining wall next to the previous vent location.
I measured between the remaining closet wall studs and I'd have enough space for a 4x10 stack head (so a bit smaller than the old one). This leaves me with a couple of questions:

Can I trim the circular ducting beneath the subfloor back so I can fit an end register duct boot to the new location? Or do I need to replace the existing ducting with a shorter length and then attach the end register boot?
Will it cause issues if I relocate the outlet in that space to the opposite side of the stud it's currently attached to to make room for the new vent, or is placing an outlet that close to an AC register a bad idea?


texts: How can I fabricate a custom one-off plastic part?

texts:
Here's some background: I just moved into a house and am in the process of fixing up the bathroom.  I want to keep the two florescent lights that frame the medicine cabinet but the plastic covers are probably 30 years old and one is cracking.

Question: Does anyone know of a place where I can send the one good light have a set of covers fabricated out of new plastic?

The lights look almost identical to this:

(source: robern.com)


texts:
We have a GFCI outlet in our kitchen that has been tripping pretty regularly (4+ times a day). We first noticed it when our fridge would go out.  (Breaker Box Circuit "A") We assumed the problem was the fridge. I unplugged it, dusted it and plugged it back it.  That did not solve the problem.  So we plugged it into another outlet in the kitchen using an extension cord. The GFCI continued to trip.

Also on the GFCI circuit is the computer in another room. (Breaker Box Circuit "B").  We took the computer off the outlet and plugged it into another.  Since then we haven't have any tripping issues.

We have had this setup for 4+ years and never had issues until about a month ago. I initially plan to replaced the GFCI outlet.

Unfortunately, I do not have  schematic diagram of the wiring.

My questions are as follows:

Why / How do the GFCI's cross breaker circuits?
Does the problem seem worse than a bad outlet?


texts: How do I secure electrical wiring to a pocket door frame?

texts:
I recently installed 2 pocket door kits together from one room to an adjacent in my house.  The building inspector said he saw no problem with me installing a light switch in a shallow electrical box on the pocket door frame as long as I could properly secure the wire per code, within 8" of the box. The frame is 3/4" thick and 14/2 wiring is a little over 3/8" wide.

In the image below, how do I secure the wiring which runs to the switch (just 1 wire) to the edge of the frame?  Has anyone come across this before?  What can I do to make sure it doesn't come loose and start rattling against the door?

Obviously the purpose is to keep the light switch to the room as close to the entrance as comfortable. In fact I may move the switch down one stud to make room for molding, In either case the question is the same.

The wiring will come in just above the frame and below the header in this picture below, and then run down the metal stud to the switch box.


texts: Why doesn't my Goodman furnace make heat sometimes?

texts: I have a 2.5 ton 2 stage Goodman furnace. It's about 5 years old. Problem is sometimes when I start it I can hear the blower start up but no heat just cold air. This is a intermittent problem sometimes it heats but most the time it doesn't. I've maintained it according to the manual, filter is clean no obstructions anywhere. I changed the batteries in the thermostat. I pretty much just turn it on and off the same way since it was installed.


texts: Insinkerator Instant Hot SSRV-1 Spitting Air -- Need Ball Valve

texts:
My Insinkerator Instant Hot undersink water dispenser is about 8 years old and it has begun spitting air when running water.  It is not a steam/overheating problem, because it only spits air when running water out of it, and it still spits air if the heat is turned off and it is running cold water.  Thanks to another post on this site, I dis-assembled the unit and narrowed my problem to one thing:  a bad one-way ball valve.  The ball valve is at the bottom of the plastic water return/expansion tank at the top of the unit.  It appears that the ball valve seats in a black rubber seat, which has disintegrated with age.  Now the ball valve no longer seats, causing the unit to suck in air when it is running and spit the air out the faucet.  Does anyone know where I can get a new expansion tank?  My unit is Insinkerator Instant Hot Water Dispenser Model SSRV-1.

Here is the trouble-shooting explanation of how this unit works, and why I need the part:  The tank is not pressurized with water, except when you press the dispenser.  The water pressure goes straight to the dispenser, and when you press the handle it runs down into the tank, coming in at the green-circled pipe.  The water eventually fills up the tank and pushes hot water out the middle tube up to the hot water faucet.  When water rushes into the tank at pressure, it runs past a venturi (green circle) which creates a vacuum and sucks water in from the grey tubing that connects to the bottom of the plastic overflow/expansion tank.  So long as there is water in the expansion tank, it is being sucked into the metal tank together with the cold water.  But when there is no longer any water in the tank, a little floating ball drops to the bottom of the plastic tank, and stops air from flowing into the grey tube.  So, the ball valve acts like a one-way valve when there is air in the line, but is stays open when there is water.  That is because, if there is air line the line, it will be sucked in at the venturi (green circle), creating bubbles in the top of your tank, which will spit out when you are dispensing hot water.

You can confirm that this is your problem, by disconnecting the clear tubing from the red-cicled inlet pipe, and hold your hand over the inlet while someone else runs the dispenser.  If the spitting stops, you know that air coming in through this plastic tank is the source of your problem.

So, while I am waiting for this part, can I just crimp off the clear tubing that is coming into the unit attached at the red-circled inlet?  Based on other posts about this unit, I think that two things may happen if I do this:  1)  I may get a momentary slug of cold water when I first press the dispenser, because this is the tube that water runs down after the dispenser is shut off;  2)  If the unit boils a bit at the very end of a heating cycle, or expands the water, it will force hot water out the dispenser rather than running into this overflow tank.

My next question is, if this overflow tank is not offered anywhere for sale, can I buy a one-way air valve that is open in water?  In other words, a ball valve that floats, like the one that is sealed inside this tank?  So I can install it inline with the bit of grey tube that is showing?  Any other ideas?  Thanks.


texts: What are some ways to fill a small gap between a wooden column and a concrete wall

texts:
I have wood pergola columns connecting to my house through fixtures which are fitted into grooves in the wood. The wood was cut slightly too short (or due to small variations in the wall), there is a small gap about 1–2 centimeters in some places. I want to fill the gap so that the metal fixture won't be visible and the wood "end" will be flush with the wall so water won't get between the column and the wall.

In this picture you might be able to see the small gap I need to fill. In some other places the gap is larger (in this case it might be barely visible)


texts: Place drywall joint at sagging truss center or overlap?

texts:
I added a 10'x15' room and am preparing to hang drywall when I noticed the center of the engineered roof truss (15' span) is sagging slightly.  The 2x4 trusses have a joint in the bottom center.  If I put a 4' straight edge on one side, the gap about 3 foot out on the other side is ~1/4".

Talking with some friends we disagree on how to hang the ceiling drywall.  Should the joint line up with the center of the truss or should the panel cover the center?  Which would reduce the chance for cracking?

Note: Images are exaggerated for clarity.

Option 1: Joint in center

Option 2: Overlap center


texts: Kenmore dishwasher - replaced broken heating element but still not fully drying

texts:
I have a Kenmore dishwasher, model 665.13073K210.  It also reads 13073K 583-0 inside the door.  Some time ago I noticed that dishes were not getting dry like they had been, and after the cycle finished it wasn't as hot inside. I saw that there was a little nodule looking thing on the heating element and determined I needed to replace the heating element.

I replaced the element this weekend with a new one, ran everything through with what appeared to be no problems.  But it still does not seem to be drying well still.  After some further reading it sounds like maybe I might have to replace a thermostat and/or a thermal fuse, too?  As those might have been damaged or something when the heating element original broke?

What should I look for from here? Is there both a thermostat and a fuse and which should I check first? I'm honestly not looking forward to taking the whole unit back out so I'm hoping that whatever I'm checking might be inside the door panel.


texts: HVAC with long duct run has insufficient flow

texts:
Brand new system that feeds 3 bedrooms, one downstairs and two upstairs.  The system is hooked up to 2 electronic dampers for zoning.  The downstairs gets good and cold, however there doesn’t seem to be enough air getting to the upstairs.

It’s quite a long run to the upstairs bedrooms, maybe as much as 50’.  We don’t see to get the same pressure upstairs as we do downstairs.

From the picture below you can see the ducting and the connection quality.  Clearly these connections should be taped, but from brief inspection they don’t feel like they’re leaking air.  The returns also seem to lack much sucking power. To even feel the airflow I have to wet my hand and hold it up to the return.

Would a booster fan help?  Anything else?

EDIT: I noticed that the airflow was worse than usual and noticed that the refrigerant line was frosted over both at the coils and at the condenser.  So I clearly have multiple symptoms if not problems with this system.  The HVAC company is installing a blower into the supply duct, hopefully with increased airflow it will solve the cooling issue and the freezing of the refrigerant line.


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How do I stop the dripping noise from my gutters?

I have metal downspouts that come down from by gutters.  One of them happens to be right by my bedroom window.  When the rain is just right this downspout will often make an extremely loud pinging sound when water is coming down slowly (think someone hitting a coffee can with a spoon ever 2 seconds).  For some reason this rhythmic sound seems to wake me up and then drive me mad.

Has anyone else had this problem and found a good solution?  I tried stuffing rocks up the down spout in the hopes that they would quiet things down.  This works for a short time, but every big storm they seem to wash away.  Suggestions?

FYI - the downspout comes down perpendicular to the ground and then angles out 135 degrees from perpendicular.


texts: Should I downsize a circuit breaker from 40amps to 30 amps?

texts:
I just fixed a hard-to-find short circuit in my home wiring. I had  heavy gauge aluminum wires running from two 40 amp circuit breakers to bring 220V to my electric cooktop. My guess is that those were the original wires from 40 years ago. Those wires were spliced to copper 10G wires in a junction box and then they ran to another junction box near the cooktop where they were spliced again. One of the aluminum /copper connectors melted in that middle box. This was very hard to diagnose.

Question: The cooktop label says  7KW for 120V/240V; 5.3KW for 120V/205V. Someone suggested that I should replace those 40A breakers with 30A breakers if the the appliance can run on the 30A as it would be safer. Can I just take 7000 divided by 240 = 29Amps? Will that be okay? Or do I have to take into account RMS voltage and current? I don’t remember whether these ratings are in peak to peak. I think my cheap meter shows peak to peak, not RMS.


texts:
I'm planning to build a wall-to-wall desk in a brick alcove using wooden battens to hold the desk up. I'm doing this post to find out what size screws and plugs I need and if I'm using the correct materials -- I don't want the desk to collapse.
ALCOVE
Here are the alcove with a temporary desk showing the dimensions. All 3 walls are brick. Unfortunately, neither of the corners are exactly 90 degrees.

DESK TOP
25mm MDF Board, Medium Density Fibre Board: 1200 x 600mm.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07YM5JZX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00
BATTENS
Planed softwood: 1800 x 34 x 34mm.
Is this ok? If not, I can get another piece.

SCREWS AND WALLPLUGS
What type and length of screws and wall plugs should I use?
How many should I put in?
EDIT:
Weight: the desk will only be a workstation, so it will only have keyboard, mouse, someone's elbows...etc
UPDATE #1
Thanks for the advice. I have decided to use 2x4 as the baton and attach with the 85mm fittings in the photo. Like this desk. Still need to get brackets or a metal stiffener.
QUESTION: Do I need a table leg under the right baton that sticks out past the wall or can it just float out past the wall?


texts: Replaced my first power cord. Will I set the house on fire?

texts: I’ve replaced the power cord of an appliance for the very first time. How does it look? I have switched the appliance on for 3 mins and there were no fires. I just want to make sure it’s safe. It’s a NEMA 6-20P plug.


texts:
I am installing cabinets for my kitchen remodel.  This includes a kitchen island that looks like the following:

What I am unsure about is the proper way to install the island legs.  Do I install them before the countertop is installed?  If so, how do i anchor the legs to the ground.
Also, I am installing a floating LVP floor, and am installing the cabinets before the floor.  So I assume i will need to install the legs before the flooring as well?


texts:
I had mould in a wooden wall, so I had to clean it with the special cleaning solution.

But after that I don't know what I should do to fix the wall painting.

It's like a plastic or some sort of paper, I tried a lot to search what is this, but I couldn't find, please if you can guide me how to fix it.


texts: How to fish low voltage wire from finished attic dormer through heavy framing?

texts:
I want to reroute this wifi camera’s 5V power cable (currently going through the window) through the wall.
My idea is to drill a small hole in the wall where the purple circle is, route the wire down the wall as shown and then into an unfinished crawl space (red outlined areas).   There is a specific problem I’m asking about, and I’m open to other ideas.    I cannot get into the dormer soffit, it’s finished with no access.
The issue is that the framing is all very heavy.  The green lines indicate actual 4x4 beams and the horizontal one between the dormer and the crawl space is even heavier.  I can get into the crawl space beneath it, and drill up into the wall as shown by the yellow arrow.  But the bottom plate of the dormer is very wide at that point.  It extends about an inch out of the dormer into the roof space below, and about two inches into the dormer where it forms a ledge you can see in one of the pictures.  My fear is that drilling up from underneath as shown by the yellow arrow I might end up going through the roof or into the inside ledge.
I can make small holes in the interior wall to help fish the wire through.  I'd like to avoid opening a huge hole in the interior wall, from where I can easily drill down into the crawl space but then refinishing is more work than the entire project would be otherwise.
Note, aside from the question itself, my intention is to install an outlet in the crawl space, run my own low voltage wire from there to the outside, and splice it to the camera connector outside and to the wall wart inside.
Photos:

outside, showing location of camera, desired cable route (purple), location of unfinished spaces under roof (red), locations of heavy framing (green) and location markers 1 and 2.
inside ledge at bottom of dormer showing where oversized bottom plate protrudes into attic.
Same corner of dormer showing framing in crawl space.


texts:
Once again I am going through a room and replacing the switches, and once again I am stumped on how to proceed.

We have a switch in the laundry room which controls a light in the garage. I assumed it was 3 way because there is another light in the garage which controls the same light. So I bought a switch with a pilot light and prepared to go to work.

However, the switch seems to (like many of the others in our house) follow some weird wiring pattern. Here's a picture of the back of the switch:

And here is the new switch I'm trying to install:

https://imgur.com/a/Gr9NH

Could someone walk me through how to wire this up? Thanks in advance!

EDIT: Added more pictures.


texts: Wire a bathroom fan and light so the light always controls the fan, but the fan can be operated independantly from the light

texts:
I have a bathroom light fixture and a fan that are currently both independently controlled by their own switches. I'd like to wire it (preferably without having to go into the attic to change the current wiring...asbestos insulation) such that when the light comes on, the fan also comes on, but the fan can be operated independently.
Truth Table of desired effect
+--------------+------------+-------+-----+
| Light Switch | Fan Switch | Light | Fan |
+--------------+------------+-------+-----+
| Off          | Off        | Off   | Off |
| Off          | On         | Off   | On  |
| On           | Off        | On    | On  |
| On           | On         | On    | On  |
+--------------+------------+-------+-----+

The current wiring is like this for both switches.

I was thinking that there has to be some way to wire the switches together with 3 or 4-way switches in order to acheive the desired effect, but I am having trouble coming up with a solution. Thoughts?


texts: I have a washing machine which uses the only available water valve where it is. I want to add a dish washer. However, there is only one water valve. Is it possible to install an accessory so that I get two independent current of water, one for the dish washer and one for the washing machine?


texts:
My old switch does not have a white wire.  Should I add one and attach it to the grommet inside the box?

Also, in most diagrams, the black wire enters the box from the top an leaves from the bottom.  In this case they both are on top.  How do I know which wire should be connected to RD?

Thanks


texts: Can I pull 120v outlets from a 220v box with no neutral?

texts: I want to run a couple of 110 volt plugs from a box that has 220 volts.  Both the black and white wires are 110 volt and there is only a ground wire with them.  Can I tie into one of the hot wires and just connect the neutral wire to ground?


texts: Do I need to do any maintenance for a wood retaining wall?

texts:
What do you do to protect your wood retaining wall to stand for extreme weather condition (hot and cold)? I just look at mine and thought that before winter arrive do I need to do something. Is it maintenance free? I don't want to miss anything.

And for the related question, How long the wood retaining wall last (on average)?


texts: What is the white flakes and hairy thing on ceiling?

texts: Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be going on with this ceiling?


texts: Is it OK to use solid oak flooring on top of a plywood subfloor in my shed?

texts: I have leftover solid oak wood flooring that I'd like to use in my new shed, applied to a plywood base.  We live where our winters are mainly rain.


texts: Installing roof truss diagonal bracing: splice plate where braces cross?

texts: I'm looking at installing diagonal bracing to my roof trusses as described on page 77 of the document at http://www.dwbgroup.co.uk/files/8013/5284/7141/Gang_Nail_Trussed_Rafter_Manual.pdf but am unable to find a supplier of the "22 x 97 x 600mm long timber splice plate" which is specified as a binder to protect the braces where they cross each other.  The only similar product I've been able to find locally is 25 x 110 x 335mm.  As this is not being used to join the timber but just (as far as I can see from the available documentation) protect it from damage caused by it moving against the brace running in the opposite direction, would it be possible to cut this down to size in the directions where it is too large using a grinder, and use 2 pairs of them rather than just a single pair to extend the length?


texts: Why would my gas heater have blow back, but not every time?

texts:
My furnace turns on, and sometimes, has blow back through the tube leading back to the water heater, causing condensation on top of the water heater, blowing out the pilot light. Then 9 out of 10 times, the furnace vents out properly. I don't understand how this can happen.

The HVAC repair men are stumped also.They replaced the old water heater that was doing the same thing. Then they changed the vent shaft from a "y" to a "t" connection leading to the vent to the roof. It works 9 out of 10 times perfect, then the furnace turns on, and the vent leading back to the water heater gets hot all the way back to the water heater, and the top gets soak and wet, and the pilot goes out. Frustrating as hell. The vent on the roof seems clear as the steam is clearly coming out .


texts: Replacing a wall outlet with three black and three white wires with a smart outlet with one white and one black wire

texts:
I got a Kasa Smart WI-Fi Power Outlet for Christmas and want to replace an outlet in my living room with this. The Smart Outlet has one White, one Black and one Green wire coming out of it and no other places to connect wires.  When I pulled the outlet out from the wall, there were three black, three white and a copper wire connected to it. What is the reason for three wires?
Based on  my research I should tie all three black and all three white wires into a pigtail with the wire from the smart outlet and wire nut them together, then do the copper to the green. Is this correct?


texts: drilling and putting a wall plug into spackle, taped up dry wall

texts: hi i recently tried to put up some curtain rails and unfortunately whilst drilling have put a much larger hole and made a mess of the wall, now i need that same area to put the curtain rails on, can i put spackle into the large hole together with the path/tape and then redrill into the hole with a wall plug? will it be stable? thanks for the answers in advance i presume its an insanely novice question


texts: How to prevent squirrels from damaging pipe boots?

texts:
I have a few pipe boots on my roof that squirrels like to munch on. I'm not sure why but it creates a lot of work for me.

How can I prevent this from happening again once I fix the boot? This is the second time its happened and I'm sure will continue. I was thinking barb wire around it but I'd prefer a more aesthetic solution.


texts: Securing and Attaching Home Electrical Mast

texts:
I was recently notified by my electrical company that the electrical mast routing electricity from overhead wires into my house was in not in compliance for permanent service.

The problem is that "the service mast conduit must have 2 points of attachment: 2 Kindorf brackets, or 2 U-bolts, or 1 U-bolt and a guy kit, or 1 Kindorf  and a guy kit". I believe this refers to the pipe above the meter, which currently is not attached to the home. They specifically won't allow "pipe straps".

Which of these options (U-bolt, Kindorf, or Guy Kit) is the most cost effective and easy to install? What's the basic instructions for installation? The utility's approved diagram is below.


texts:
The hot water stopped running through just one bathroom faucet. (It's a two-handle system). I turned off the hot water supply line valve under the sink and removed the valve inside the handle. But even when I turned the supply line back on, no water came out of the handle. There's a small, short-lived drip from the supply line valve when I open it, but it stops after I shut it. I've never seen anything like this.  Any ideas?

Thank you


texts: Seeks parts for antique wood venetian blinds

texts:
We have 60 year old wood venetian blinds that we're in the process of replacing the ladder tape on (that was easy to find).  One of our blinds is missing a small wooden roller and we're at a loss as where to find one.

It's approximately 1/2" long, 5/16" wide, and has a 3/8" hole.  I'm attaching pictures.  While I'd prefer it to be wood, I'm ok with other materials as it will never be seen.

A quick google search only produced the more modern styles.


texts: Can I replace just the plastic frame around the glass panes on my front door?

texts: My dog chewed pieces of the frame molding around the glass panes on my front door in the house I am renting....can I just replace that plastic/fiberglass molding?


texts: Replacing 2 dimmer switches, breaker keeps tripping?

texts:
I'm trying to replace 2 dimmer switches with 2 regular switches, each dimmer switch controls 2 pot lights.

Each dimmer switch has 2 black wires as well as a green wire which seems to be ground but I'm not sure (the green wires both connect to each other with a bare copper wire, see pics).

I have the first switch replaced and working just fine with a 3 pole switch (green went to hole labelled COM and black wires went to each end). However when connecting the second switch in the same fashion the breaker trips immediately when turning it back on. What did I do wrong?

Edit:

From what I can see, this is how it was wired before:

Switch 1 = S1, Switch 2 = S2

S1 "Off" side black is in a pigtail with S2 "On" side black (which has 2 wires from the wall connected to it as well).

S1 "On" side black goes into the wall.

S2 "Off" side black goes into the wall.

Greens are pigtailed together with bare copper.

This is how it's wired now with only S2 connected and working:

Green is going to COM.

Black that was on Off side is going to Off side.

Black that was on On side is going to On side.

Trying to do the same thing on the other switch as well trips the breaker.


texts:
In general the AC in our house works reasonably well (though I haven't done performance tests on it yet). It's a single stage 3.5 ton heat pump/AC original to the house, which was built in 2002. Everything is in the basement with the condenser being about 25 ft away outside.

The house is 2 stories sitting on a basement/garage, and the floors are 2 separate zones. The basement is not insulated beyond 1.5 of the cinder block walls being underground.

All of the branch lines that feed the first and second floor are insulated, but the trunk lines that feed those are not. There are two separate trunks, one for each zone. Both trunks are 6-7 ft long.

On humid days (we're in the south, so every day) I notice a lot of condensation on the trunk lines sometimes to the point of seeing small puddles on the basement floor in some spots.

My question: Should these be insulated (yes, probably?) and if so would there be a noticeable efficiency gain to make it worth the effort to wrap them?

I know there are a lot of variables here so I'm just trying to get a basic understanding or rule of thumb.


texts: How do I wire a remote fan switch and still be able to use wall switches?

texts:
I have 2 wall switches. 4 wires coming out of the ceiling (black-hot, red-hot, white-common, bare- ground), this ceiling fan and remote (PDF of instructions). How do I wire them and still be able to use wall switches and remote?
I'd like to be able to turn off the light/fan switches individually but also utilize the remote when each switch is on. So 1 switch provides power to the lights and the other to the fan.
Remote unit has Black and White inputs and Black, White, Blue (bottom light) and Orange (top light) outputs to fan/light fixture.
Is this possible or do I just cap the red and have a master switch and a useless switch?


texts: What type of sealant to use on skylight to seal glass and frame

texts: I have a leaky skylight, I actually think that the leaks are coming from the seal between the glass and the frame rather than around the flashing or anything like that. What is the best calking / sealant to use, obviously it has to be something that is UV / Weather resistant, preferably clear, able to flex in hot and cold. Any suggestions?


texts: How should I set my furnace's DIP switches to allow thermostatic control of the fan's stages?

texts:
I have a 16 year old Tempstar condensing 90+ two stage with variable speed motor. I just connected a Lyric T5 thermostat and would like to have the thermostat control the staging rather than the furnace. The manual says the 4th DIP switch on the control board must be in the ON position for two-stage thermostat operation. At present only the 2nd and 3rd are in the ON position. If I move the 4th to the ON position do the 1st, 2nd and 3rd stay in their present positions? Are any other adjustments required other than the wiring?

Thank you!


texts: I just removed wallpaper, cleaned the walls, repaired, painted a primer sealer, and painted with a satin finish in my bathroom.  Hate it! Can I use a different color with a matte finish over this satin that I painted on with a brush. New paint will be close in color?


texts: I turned off water supply to house to replace shower cartridge.  Water off for three or so hours.  Turned water back on and "flushed" the lines.  A few days later, turned on pool filler and got low pressure and almost no pressure everywhere else in house during fillup.  HELP!


texts: How can I repair a hole in wood laminate kitchen countertop?

texts: Builders made a hole in the worktop, the surface is a laminated wood. What is the correct way to repair this ?


texts: How can a ventless (gas) fire box be put in a wall safely?

texts: It (ventless fireplace) is currently sitting on the floor, taking up needed floor space and I would like to have it placed inside the wall? I need to know any and everything that would need to be done to make this possible. Step by step please and thank you.


texts: Calculating a main floor load bearing wall for 4 story condo

texts:
I'm seeking help on calculations of a main flood load bearing wall support for our 4 story (basement and 3 floors) condo. The raw area of the condo is 19'6" wide by 27'6" deep. The full length of the existing wall is 15'6". The wall I am trying to calculate is shown in blue on the floor plan picture I have attached.

Thanks for any help
Brett


texts: Can I drill vertically through this from the main floor to the upstairs?

texts:
I made a large hole in my wall with hopes of fishing a wires from the main floor to the upstairs. I'm wondering if I can drill vertically through this. I'm asking because it looks integral to the construction of my house.
This hole is in the stairway between the two levels of my home.

I tried researching what this was, but was unfruitful.


texts: Diagnosing RCD tripping to decide whether to fix or junk basic electric oven

texts:
Excuse any incorrect terminology in this question (I will correct if advised).

I'm in the UK. I have a house with relatively new wiring (past 5 years) which has circuit breakers on the power and lighting circuits and two RCD devices (I think these are GFCI in the US) for the downstairs and upstairs circuits.

I have a very basic built-in electric oven with fan that runs off a standard 13A plug.

I unplugged the oven from the socket, moved the shelf in the housing that the oven sits on to make room for something else. I then plugged the oven back into its original socket (two outlet, dual pole, switched shared with microwave). When I switched on the thermostat on the oven, it tripped the "downstairs" RCD. Just switching on the lamp or the fan did not trip the RCD. I looked at the wiring in the plug and the earth wire looked to be just a few strands of copper. I stripped insulation and trimmed and refitted all three wires (E,L,N) to the plug, plugged the device in, switched on the element and thermostat and no RCD tripping. Hooray! The device has been ok for about two weeks then yesterday it tripped the RCD after running at 180C for 15 minutes.

Now, the device is probably faulty in some way but I am concerned that this is some "cumulative" effect and that there is a "baseline" current drain happening from other devices and the oven is just adding to that and causing the RCD to trip.

Is there some "plug in" tester that provides a standard UK plug and socket that can be inserted between the device and the power outlet where I can check any current drain for every device in my house? I'm trying to isolate the problem to the oven - if indeed that is the only source of the problem. I'm willing to pay £30 for such a device.

Is there any link to a systematic check I can perform on the oven if the current drain problem  is isolated to that? I'm trying to decide whether there is an easy diagnosis / fix I can achieve for under £50 plus some time investment and decide whether to get the oven serviced or to junk it and buy a replacement. I chose £50 as the target expenditure as that is the charge for a call out plus half hour work around here. Also if it is possible to "residual current" test all devices that will unearth other problems and I can replace faulty devices or make me sleep better.

I don't want to replace the oven if the problem is (partly) somewhere else and replacing the oven doesn't actually fix the RCD trip.


texts: Spring water in basement of new construction

texts:
Location: Northern New Brunswick, Canada
Lakeside property.

Last fall we dug and poured our concrete foundation, which has a full height basement and a walk-in, which needed a step foundation in that area.  While digging the step foundation, we hit rock bed at approximately 5ft bellow the normal footing elevation.

During the dig, we didn’t hit any water source.  The dig and concrete pour went as planned.  However since winter came early, we didn’t pour the concrete floor right away.  So we went through the winter with a compacted gravel floor in the basement, just waiting for warm weather.

When spring came along, I had water come in the basement, and I was happy to have installed a drain tile along side the inside of the footing with a sump and pump.

But now that all the snow and spring melt is over, I still have water coming in the basement at one specific place in the gravel floor. It’s at a slower rate, but it seems to be a spring source, since it even created a small hole in the gravel floor where the water comes in.

Now I was thinking of running a drain line from that ‘hole’ direct to the sump, but i’m wondering if I should go even further to permanently fix this problem before pouring the concrete floor...  Does anyone have any good ideas?


texts: How do I improve heating in back room of house?

texts:
The back room of my house is quite warm in the summer. The room is on the north side of the house (Alabama, USA), so the outside walls don't get direct sun exposure. The attic insulation is a little on the low side, but comparable to the rest of the house. The HVAC air handler is on the opposite end of the house. There are two air returns, one near the air handler and the other just a few feet from the room in question. The nearby return has a 40 foot run to the air handler. The air handler feeds a trunk line that runs about 35 feet. Near the end of the trunk are two 6 inch flexible ducts that go the remaining distance to the room (25-30 feet).

I have considered a few alternatives to resolving the problem.

1) replace the 6 inch ducts with larger ducts.

2) add another duct line and duct.

3) install a duct fan to boost air flow.

While I'm completely capable of doing the electrical part to code (and safely), I'd prefer either of the other two options. Which of these options is best? Or is there another better option?


texts:
I have been experiencing a leak onto my first-floor ceiling from my shower. It only happens when someone is standing in the shower, making me think it's likely a drain issue caused by pressure rather the faucet or shower head.

I've opened the strainer and found a rotten-looking light gray gasket just sitting on top of a hard black plastic/rubber pice that surrounds the PVC. I've included the image below.

My question is whether it makes sense for my next step to be to try caulking around the seam where the flange and shower base meet (and the flange/black plastic and black plastic/PVC meet) or whether I should try to remove the drain, clean and re-caulk. I'd like to take my best shot without calling in professional help.

Guidance and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


texts: How can I replace a 3 wire thermostat with a 4 wire on baseboard electric heater?

texts: The old thermostat had a black, red, and white wire. Black went to black, red to red and white to white in wall.  New thermostat has 2 blacks and 2 reds.  What to I connect the new wires to?


texts: Why is our new water heater makeing a ticking sound?

texts:
I installed a new electric Rheem model XE40M06ST45U1 water heater last week and for the past four days it has been making a ticking sound. The sound seems to be the loudest near the supply lines. Frankly, it sounds like a grandfather clock!
What could be causing this noise?


texts: Should I raise my subfloor when moving from 3/4" hardwood to thinner laminate?

texts:
When moving from a 3/4" hardwood floor to a thinner product such as engineered or laminate which is usually 8mm or 12mm, do you typically want to offset the lower profile of the new product by installing an additional layer on the sub-floor in order to bring the level up snug under existing door frames, etc?
Quick calculations show 12mm to be a little less than 1/2" so it seems like I'd be able to layer 1/4" sheets of plywood directly on top of the existing 3/4" plywood sub-floor so that by the time I add any underlay and then the new product on top I should be at the same height as the old hardwood.
Am I thinking about this in the wrong way?  I don't want to re-frame all my door casings to be lower just to avoid gaps between the bottoms and the floor and obviously slapping quarter round on the bottom of the jamb / casings is not feasible so raising the sub-floor seems to be the best option to me.
Thanks in advance for your answers / help.  Glad to have found this site - I've used Stack Overflow for years as a software developer and it looks like there are just as many knowledgable, helpful folks over here.


texts: Installation of Polystyrene External Wall Insulation - over old render?

texts:
I am considering installing a Polystyrene-block based External Wall Insulation system.  Currently the house is blockwork with a rough render.

One contractor has told be that the existing render on the house will not need to be removed (i.e. they advise glueing the Polystyrene blocks directly to the old render).  This seems a bit odd to me, especially since the render is so rough (there's about a 20mm difference between peaks and troughs in the render).

I would have thought the old render would need to be removed, so that the blocks are attached flush with the blockwork (e.g. so that there is no cold airflow between the blockwork and the polystyrene, and simply to achieve an even/level covering with the blocks).  Can anyone offer an opinion either way?


texts: Replacing cabinet hinges but plates don't have matching screws

texts:
I'd like to replace my cabinet hinges with soft-close hinges. I've read about overlay measurements, cup-depth, etc. I purchased a couple hinges to test and discovered that the new hinges have much smaller holes for the screws which attach the hinges to the inside of the cabinet.

The two holes at the top are the cabinet-side holes. The screw goes with the original hinge on the left - the soft-close hinges have much smaller diameter holes and the original screws won't fit.

This is a problem because the holes that are already in the cabinets from the original screws are larger than the screws that came with the new, soft-close hinges. So I can't use the new screws, they're too small and won't secure the door. The holes align perfectly so I can't screw in the hinge somewhere else or the door won't line up. I've searched for a long time looking for other soft-close hinges with larger holes but, for some reason, they all have the same narrow ovals or smaller screws.
I'm at a loss trying to think of a solution besides using a drill bit to open up the hole on the new hinges, but I know there might be a better solution than that. Thanks for your help!


texts: Hard to Pin-Point High Temp Limit Switch Issue

texts:
I have been having an issue with my furnace for awhile now which can't seem to be solved. Had a furnace service out to review it and he spent 6 hours here trying everything. Below are the facts. Hopefully someone here will be able to help!

Have a carrier high-efficiency 80k BTU 93% furnace
Model # is 59SC5A080S171216 and Serial # is 2316A58989
Was manufactured June 2016. I need to look back at our receipts but believe it was installed late 2016 / early 2017.
Installed a Honeywell RTH9585WF1004 Wi-Fi Smart Thermostat about a year and a half ago
Home is 1666 sq ft in the metro Detroit area with a finished basement
Home has always maintained temperature hot or cold, all vents blow warm/cold air when requested

Now for the issue. I noticed a power cycle of my new thermostat which happened every 10-15 minutes while it ran. I did a lot of googling and it seemed that it was the high-temp limit switch tripping. I had a highly recommended heat and cooling service provider come out and below is the list of everything he looked at and tried.

Saw the high-limit switch was tripping which was causing the power to be cut to the smart thermostat
Replaced the high-limit with no fix to the issue
Took out the filter (16x25x5 3M filter) and still tripped
Even with the filter out, the filter door open, and even the control panel door open, the limit switch still tripped
All vents (return and feed) are completely open with nothing blocking them
All dampers are completely open
The furnace fan was turned up to a higher speed and still tripped
Everything is clean
AC coils were checked for dirt and are spotless
Ducting was measured for being undersized and are not

He finally tested the pressure before/after the furnace and it seemed that the feed into the furnace was not enough. I do not have those pressure numbers but am re-measuring them soon. The suggestion was to add a 12x6 vent right before the filter to attempt to allow more air into the system. Unfortunately, even adding this 12x6 vent AND removing the filter, it STILL trips the limit switch which is killing power to the thermostat.
Basically myself and the technician are out of all ideas and have no idea what the issue is. Anyone on here that has ANY idea would be greatly apricated.


texts: What is the best way to redo a shower base?

texts: The base of our shower has been poorly installed and is now cracking everywhere. The new contractor says to redo it properly everything needs to come down including the walls. Is that true?


texts: Why won't my deadbolt unlock and how can I fix it?

texts:
We've got a deadbolt that decided to stop working today. When we turn with either the key (outside) or the lever (inside), the knob/key moves the full motion, but the deadbolt only moves about 1/2 an inch. It does not retract all the way inside the door, and therefore we can't get the door open.

As I said, the movement seems fluid, but the deadbolt just doesn't move far enough. What would cause this, and how might I go about fixing it?


texts: How can I fix a squeaky hardwood floor in a small hallway?

texts:
Trying to fix squeaky hardwood floor in small hallway, think joists run parallel to floorboards on sides, near or under the walls on either side, can't find any with stud finder that run at 90 degree angle to floor.

Any ideas what to do?

I know about those kits with the scored screws that snap off, but will they work if just screwed into subfloor?


texts: I would like confirmation on the following:  Is any metal box automatically grounded if it is supplied by an armored cable (without a ground wire) that is properly connected to the box and back to the panel?  If a metal box downstream on the same circuit is only supplied by Romex, I believe to ground that box I must pigtail the ground wires to a lug on the box - correct?


texts:
First, I am going to show this to a structural engineer that I've been working with.  I am posting this to be better prepared to ask him questions.  So if you see something wrong but are not sure, please speak up.
I have knee walls in my attic.  They were put in when the attic was finished in the late 60s (we think).  The house was built in the early 50s.  The rafters are 2x6 so, according to my structural engineer, if they aren't already, the knee walls will be structural when I add insulation and more snow accumulates on the roof.
We pulled off the wall board and they're looking a bit haphazard.  This is the one that's in best shape (I think).  2x4 studs placed directly under rafters, 2 in thick top plate that they cut at an angle to be flush with vertical surface, neat blocking.

They must've run out of 2x lumber or something because the top plate is short 1x planks.  Studs are still 2x4.  The studs are placed under rafters but there are openings for a door and a built-in without a decent header so that rafter in the middle has basically no support.

The rest are constructed from 2x3 studs and the studs aren't placed under the rafters.  The top plate is 2x with the corner cut off but it breaks between studs.  It might be hard to see but toward the right, there's a stud that's supported by a foot-long end of the top plate hanging off a stud.  The rafter over the door opening doesn't get much support either.  The blocking is often loose and not wood in the best of shape.  This one was built to hold up wallboard, not the roof.

How do these look overall?  Are there problems I'm missing?


texts: How to stop rats from walking in plastic sewage pipe and damaging it?

texts: A rat has scratched open a big hole in a plastic sewage pipe near the toilet. After closing the hole with a metal plate and taping it with power tape, the rat has started scratching again. How to stop it from destroying the pipe again?


texts: How should I connect my new light fixture?

texts:
I’m trying to install a bathroom light fixture. It has one white, one black, and one copper wire

I opened the wall and I have 2 black 2white 2 copper and one red. I can get the light to come on but not to work off of the light switch. Help please


texts: Why does my humidifier not come on when heat is on?

texts:
Our HVAC setup includes a humidifier, but the control board seems to activate it only when the fan is on without heat/cool. Here's how I got to that conclusion:

I hooked up my multimeter to the transformer that connects to the wires going to the humidistat, on the 24V side, so I can see whether it is getting a signal
When I use the thermostat to switch the heat on (which includes the fan), there's no signal to the humidifier
When I use the thermostat to switch on only the fan, without heating or cooling, there's a signal to the humidifier and it works

I'm thinking this isn't right, but correct me if I'm wrong. Can anyone help me troubleshoot why it won't come on when the heater is on?
Other background
We moved in earlier this year and haven't used the humidifier until now. We don't know anything about who installed it, but there was a spare solenoid laying around, so it's my guess that the last owners also tried to fix it. We fixed that portion though and now it does do its job when the control board actually sends a signal.


texts: Can I install laminate flooring over linoleum which is torn?

texts:
I have a small hallway/entryway with cheap linoleum. (Approximately 8 ft by 3 ft.) Part of it is torn, exposing the concrete floor underneath.

I have enough laminate (simulated wood) flooring left over from finishing another room and would like to replace the linoleum. A friend says I can go right over the top of the linoleum and that the difference in height from the concrete to the linoleum wouldn't matter. Further, the linoleum is supposed to be very difficult to remove. (I haven't tried yet.)

Because it's torn, exposing concrete, I am thinking it shouldn't be that hard to remove. Am I wasting my time trying to remove it, or should I follow my friend's advice and install the laminate flooring over the top of it?

(This question is related: Should I remove old linoleum when replacing a linoleum floor?)


texts:
I am trying to upgrade my rocker switches to Smart Switches and ran into a problem identifying wires behind the old switches.

It seems that the old switch is connected with a ground and 2 white wires. There is a bundle of black wires capped and sitting inside the box. Everything I've read and have been told is that Neutrals are usually white and Blacks are hot.

What is going on with my wiring and are my hot and neutral colors just reversed? Or is the neutral connected to the switch and the hot capped? Or is there something else weird going on?

Thank you so much in advanced!

Here is a photo of another box. I checked a few of them and they all seem to have the whites running to the switch and the blacks capped and left alone. Still perplexed. I will trace back the wires but could it be that they reversed all of the wire colors in the home?


texts: Is it worth spending extra on R14 or R20 fiberglass insulation

texts:
I've put in 1" Type 1 polystyrene (estimated at R3.75) around the exterior walls and I'm deciding which insulation to use in the framing.

The R12 works out to $.38 p/sqft
The R14 works out to $.54 p/sqft (+40% over R12)
The R20 works out to $.63 p/sqft (+65% over R12, + 17% over R14)

I need about 500 sqft of this stuff. The different R values come in different size packages, so that could come into play in terms of the cost difference.

Is it worth to spend 40%, or 65% more on the insulation batts? With R12 and the polystyrene, I've got over R15. But more insulation means more $aving on heating.


texts: Replacing gfci and switch lost with wiring

texts:
I am trying to replace a GFCI and a switch that share the same box, the old one had line and load opposite of the new and and I have now gotten lost.

I have 4 black wires 2 white and 1 ground, hot wire has the green tape and tested no other hot wires and I have paired off the other black and white wires with electrical tape.

I have the live wire connected to the common on the switch, no idea what to connect to what from here! Please help.

The breaker is off.

HD pic
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ryuuHutR5pc6QekX6


texts:
With a TON of rain in my area recently (Northern Ohio), my basement flooded (around 2" of water).

The sump pump came with the house, and I never gave it a second thought (I should have).

Now that I've flooded, I want to re-do my sump situation to make sure it doesn't happen again.

The reason for this flood (we think) is that the pump was just pumping water into an already flooded area, so although it was still pumping, it wasn't doing any good (not sure - just speculation from a few people who know better than me).  It could have just been that the sump couldn't keep up.

Question:

In looking into sump setups, I found the common setup is the 2nd diagram "Standard Setup".  But IF the problem was that it was pumping water into saturated ground/area, it doesn't seem like that would help.  That being said, is there any reason I couldn't do what I diagrammed in the 3rd image, and run the battery backup out above ground?

I could attach a retractable gutter to it, so it curls up when not needed or expands of being used.  Or I could run it into some kind of pex pipe and bury it down the slope away from my house, and have it come above ground 30+' from the house... I don't know.  Potential issue w/ freezing?  The current drain goes through the foundation at about 3' below grade.  My house isn't built no a "hill", but it does have very good angle fading away from the house for ~20 feet.

Any thoughts/expertise very welcome.


texts: Should I be concerned with the accumulation of road cinder in my garage?

texts:
Albuquerque, like many municipalities during snow storms has its roadways scraped and covered in a sand cinder mixture. This winter has gotten off to an early start and the road crews have been out in force making our roads safe. The trouble is the sand cinder mixture used to assist with traction on roadways is starting to accumulate in my garage.

Is there a potential for harm to my garage's concrete floor? Do I need to be diligent about sweeping it out of the garage or can I wait until things warm up a little? I know this stuff washes away in the street, but should I be doing something to dispose of it rather than just brushing it out?


texts:
I just installed a heater in the ceiling of my bathroom and am trying to decide how to insulate around it.  The insulation in my attic is the fluffy, blown insulation (cellulose maybe? not exactly sure what it's called).

It seems like it might be a fire hazard to put it right up against the heater.  If it is, how far away does it need to be away?  Do I need to get some fiberglass to use here?


texts: Can I replace a 2-gang light switch with a Combo 3 Gang 4 Up / Down & Sideways Toggle Light Switch?

texts:
Is this possible? Obviously, I have to cut out the drywall to accommodate the new box. Currently this is the set-up:

Ultimately, I need this outlet to contain: 2 light switches and 2 120V receptacles:
Switch Plate Config. (I was unable to find a pic for the outlet, could only find switch plate pic).
The breaker for the existing switch is 15 amps. Also on the same breaker, a duplex 120V receptacle.


texts: How can 12 V halogen downlights be much more efficient than 220 V ones?

texts:
The house I bought has halogen downlights pretty much everywhere, and they are all 12 V. I was wondering why bother with stepping down to 12 V but didn't think much about it.

When looking at downlights in some shop the other day (thinking about replacing them with LEDs) I noticed that for halogen 12 V ones are much more efficient than 220 V ones - for 50 W specs were 350 lm for 220 V and 680 lm for 12V. How can there be such a difference for the same technology but different voltages?

You can check specs for the same manufacturer (Osram) and the 2 voltages here and here


texts: Replacement or retrofit listed smart switches

texts:
Most smart (WiFi remote) light switches available online say "neutral wire required".  For example, this Gosund dimmer.   In some older houses, this requirement for a neutral in the switch box is problematic. (I understand the NEC has been updated to require a neutral in switch boxes for new construction.   Cool.)
Reading online, I found this NEC quote:

2017 Code Language:
N 404.22 Electronic Lighting Control Switches.
Electronic lighting control switches shall be listed. Electronic lighting control switches shall not introduce current on the equipment grounding conductor during normal operation. The requirement to not introduce current on the equipment grounding conductor shall take effect on January 1, 2020.
Exception: Electronic lighting control switches that introduce current on the equipment grounding conductor shall be permitted for applications covered by 404.2(C), Exception. Electronic lighting control switches that introduce current on the equipment grounding conductor shall be listed and marked for use in replacement or retrofit applications only.

My understanding of the exception above is that allows for replacement or retrofit smart switches which use a ground rather than neutral to power the electronics.  Have I got that right?
Are such retrofit devices available?  Listed?
P.S. I understand the listing requirement to be satisfied by an ETL listing, such as the Gosund seems to have.


texts:
My ceiling fan previously operated with a wall switch which controlled the light, and a pull chain which controlled the fan speed independent of the switch. After disconnecting and reconnecting due to loose bracket screws, the light now operates by pull chain only (similar to the fan speed). Oddly, if the wall switch is turned on, the fan hums for a second before the breaker trips.

Wires from the ceiling are white, black, and brown/bare (assume this to be the ground). The fan wires are blue, white, black, and green. I've connected green to green, white to white, and blue & black to black.

What am I missing? Should the light (blue wire) also be connected to the white ceiling wire? Or is there something else I should troubleshoot?

Thank you in advance.!


texts: Is it OK to drain sump water into a pond?

texts:
My current sump system drains into an area that has high traffic for various activities such as log splitting and brush clearing. This creates a very muddy mess. I want to relocate the sump drain pipe to a pond that is close by (< 50 ft.). Is this acceptable to do? The pond water does have the potential to seep into a creek nearby as well. I am assuming it is OK since the water is from the ground/rain but I want to be sure it would be appropriate.

NOTE: The pond is on my private property. The water does not actively drain into the creek unless there is a lot of rainfall in the spring. And even then, there is about 100' until the water reaches the actual creek (the creek branches out towards my pond).


texts: Issue with residential electrical system in Brazil

texts:
A 127 volt electrical receptacle in my kitchen in Brazil appears to have a problem. Could be a coincidence, but after moving the frig to clean behind it (it was never tilted) and plugging it back in, almost immediately a relay popped with a burning smell. The frig was repaired  but before plugging it in again, I checked the voltage and the amperage in the receptacle using an old fan I could afford to lose if the receptacle was defective.
The voltage looks perfect: 127 volts with hot (black) to neutral (blue); 127 volts with hot to earth ground (green) and 0 volts neutral to earth ground.
The amperage reading appears to suggest a problem. 3.7 amps on the hot wire and 5.3 amps on the neutral.
It’s my understanding that the neutral should be 0 amps no matter what the hot is reading.
What am I missing ?
Thanks,
Tom


texts: How can I match the wall color after dent fixing?

texts:
I used to have a couple of small dents in one of my walls (the walls are plastered brick if that matters). I covered them and the wall is now smooth. However the main issue I have right now is the paint. Is there any way to paint the fixed areas without painting the whole wall and without having a noticeable difference between the old wall color and these fixed patches?
First I thought about trying to match the original color but there are 2 problems with that:

I didn't paint the wall in the first place and finding the exact color will be impossible.
I assume that since the wall paint is fairly old, even if I find the exact color, it is still going to be different from fresh paint.

Any ideas?


texts: Can I replace the receptacle and breaker on a 40A circuit with 30A equivalents?

texts:
I have a 40-amp circuit that previously was used for the oven/range in my house, though I switched to gas so the circuit is no longer in use.  If I wanted to install an L6-30r (30-amp receptacle) on this circuit is it sufficient to simply swap the breaker for a 30-amp and use the existing (appears to be 8AWG) wire? Second part of question, most L6-30r's that I'm finding note that they accept 14-10AWG wire, is this the norm and if so what other options would I have if I want to connect a device to this circuit with an L6-30p?

**Edit - I should have noted this would be a dedicated circuit, no other receptacles would be installed on it. The existing receptacle for the range/oven would be removed.


texts: I've got a lathe that runs on 3-phase power but my home obviously has single phase. The lathe came with a power supply separate from it that looks home made. It has a 220 volt motor hooked via v-belt to another motor which is 3-phase 440 volt. How do I use this setup? There are no wires connecting this power supply to the lathe motor wires. Can anyone help?


texts: What should I consider when burying cable?

texts: What should I consider when burying standard coaxial cable between the local pole and my house?


texts: Can I add unfaced insulation on top of faced insulation which is on top of cellulose?

texts: I want to roll out some additional fiberglass insulation in my attic.  Currently there is loose cellulose with faced fiberglass batts placed on top of the cellulose.  The facing is facing out as in the picture.  My question is, can i just roll the insulation out on top of this without a vapor issue or do i need to remove the facing (if that's even possible).  Thanks for you thoughts.


texts: Why would a shallow well pump go on and off too much?

texts: Shallow well pump pressure goes up to 50, then pump shuts off, even though the tap is still on. With a small, I think 2 gallon, pressure tank, usually the pump stays on until you turn off the tap. Water pressure seems fine, but the pump is going on and off too much.


texts: How do I paint stripes on a wall correctly?

texts:
Background information
I tried to paint two different colored stripes on a wall. I used tape for masking the stripes and then I first painted the tape with the background color to "seal" it off. Then I painted the stripes in orange / blue and the plan was a perfect edge. However as you can see in the picture, the edge is far away from perfect and I'm not sure why.

Questions

Do you have an assumption on why this happened, even though I prepared the wall with tape and the background color?
Do you have an idea on how I could repair the wall? My best idea was that I use a really small brush and a calm hand and then try to paint over the bad edges...

Thank you in advance!

EDIT
I repaired every mistake with an really small brush! Worked out perfectly!


texts:
I went to open up my outlet to see if it has a metal box. The previous owner wired in 3 prong outlets. I look and there is no ground which i suspected. But they also have 2 neutral electrical tape "spliced" into one neutral and same for hot. When i pulled out the outlet thr neutral snapped off, so i put electrical tape on the broken ends and put in child protectors until its fixed. Is it ok that hot is still connected as long as its not used? Not sure what to do with this now. Originally i just wanted to add ground to the metal box and maybe switch to gfi to help protect electronics. But what a mess.

Update: its 3 and 3 not 2 and 2 spliced into single wires. Wires are old copper with fabric. What can i use to properly connect all these? I should also note these old outlets hook into circuit breaker not fuse box but i have yet to see a grounded outlet.


texts: How to manage water runoff on flat roof of accessory dwelling unit

texts:
I am planning to build a new accessory dwelling unit (granny flat) in my backyard. I really like this design from https://node.eco/

However how do I manage the flat roof water run off? Is it just very low pitch or something?


texts: Is this supposed to be here in the shower drain?

texts:
We've been in a newly built house for 3 months, and our shower is already slow to drain. I pulled off the cover to potentially plunge/snake it out and saw this plug thing that only partially opens.

Was that left in by mistake? Or is it some kind of backflow-prevention thing?

Thanks for the help!


texts: Are standard 20A receptacles a NFPA 58 ignition source?

texts:
This is to determine if a 10 foot distance to the propane tank fill port is required.

Thanks.


texts: How do I clean sealant/silicone from a glass mirror?

texts: I did a poor job of applying silicone sealant to the seam between a glass mirror and the splash back below it. I need to clean-up the smears that I got onto the mirror and the splash-back. How do I do this?


texts:
Is this doorbell 220V or 12V ? Is it AC or DC ?

Any DIY replacement ideas ? I have spare electronics


texts: Frigidaire dishwasher won't start (LED flashes instead)

texts:
I have a Frigidaire dishwasher model FDB1050REC2.

It's been working mostly fine for the last year. (Occasionally it doesn't start, but opening and closing the door and moving the dial to Rinse Only and back to Normal fixed that.)

As of yesterday, it won't start at all — pressing the start button causes the "Washing" LED to flash in approximately one-second intervals.

Things I tried:

cutting the power to the dishwasher (via the circuit breaker)
after restoring power, put the dial to Rinse only and pressed and held Heat Dry + Start/Cancel. Test mode did not fire.
from idle, put the dial to Rinse only and pressed and held Heat Dry + Start/Cancel. Test mode did not fire.
removing the front panel, disconnecting the two halves of the wiring harness and reconnecting

I tried cutting the power a few times, from a few seconds to a few minutes.

Documents:

Wiring diagram: ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Kinston/154547901.pdf
Manual: ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Kinston/154591101.pdf

I have a multimeter and other tools.


texts: Wiring light switch with neutral (Z-wave)

texts:
I am trying to see whether or not I satisfy conditions to buy Linear WD500Z-1 Z-Wave 500-watt Wall Mount Dimmer Switch. Here is the picture of wiring I currently have:

Just to provide more info:

I'm looking to replace two left x10 switches.
Third switch, the first one on the right, is a part of 3 way setup and I wouldn't touch it for now.
Wiring situation is quite simple - we have 2 yellow and 1 orange cap

To left yellow cap goes yellow (from wall) and black (from switch). Picture can fool you that red is also connected to that cap, but it's not... it's just yellow and black.
Middle, orange cap is connected with red (hot) from all switches. I've connected blue from x10 switches to red (probably should have used black, but for x10 switch it doesn't make difference)
To right yellow cap goes purple (from wall) and black (from switch)

So, the questions that I have:

Is that white wire in the back neutral that I need for Z Wave switches?
There are two white wires in the back, how do I know which one to use? And do I need to connect each wire to a different switch?
How would I use white wire? Just cut it and then split it and connect to light switch?
How to be 100% sure that white wire is neutral? For line and load I understand that I can buy Fluke Voltage Tester... but can I buy something better that'll tell me whether or not line is neutral?


texts: Best way to seal a funky gap on shower door frame

texts:
I am trying to fix a gap at the shower door frame which I think resutled from previous owner's improper installation/sealing.

As you can see, there is this little gap at the shower door frame. That orange stick was from the hole, part of the unsuccessful sealing attempt from the previous owner, I believe.

The gap is in a very hard to access spot and direct sealing would't fully fill it up. I am wondering if I could apply some waterproof sealing foams on it?

Would these products be the right one I am looking for? Are they waterproof enough to apply on shower door gaps, or it's just general waterproof that can't really be used in shower door frame.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-12-fl-oz-Tite-Foam-Insulating-Foam-2045981/206310510

http://www.premierbuildingsolutions.net/product/xtrafoam-minimal-expanding-foam-sealant/


texts:
I'm trying to figure out how to fix the alignment of my front door. Sorry if I get the terminology horribly wrong, but here goes.

Three of the four corners of the door line up almost perfectly, but the top corner on the strikeplate side of the door sticks out (into the house) by about half a centimeter. The spacing between the door and the jamb is roughly equal all around (so it closes nicely), yet this one corner sticks out far enough to look funny and to prevent the weather stripping from making contact, leading to a noticeable draft. I'm not really sure what other information would be useful, so I'm just attaching some pictures in hopes that somebody can either identify what adjustments are needed, or tell me what further information I can provide to facilitate a diagnosis.

These images show the problem area:


texts: Why doesn't my light stay on unless I wiggle the switch?

texts: The light switch in my bathroom has been acting oddly the last month.  When I flip the switch on, the light turns on, but doesn't stay on.  If I wiggle the switch, it will stay on.  Sometimes I barely need to touch the switch, sometimes I need to wiggle it for a few moments.  I've swapped the light bulbs, it makes no difference.  The house is only 11 years old, so the wiring is fairly new.  Any ideas?  New fuse?  New light switch?


texts: How to prepare & paint a porch that has existing lead paint?

texts:
I'd like to repaint my 100-year-old wooden front porch. It almost certainly had lead paint at some point. I would very much like to avoid stripping it, or any other procedure that might mobilize the lead paint, as I have young kids (and, if any dust were created, it would be very hard to keep it out of the front yard).

However, the porch also has lots of dirt ground in to it, and in some places the paint is totally worn away. Is there a way to properly clean the wood without mobilizing the lead paint?


texts: Can I replace a 20A breaker with a 40A breaker?

texts: My basement has only one 20 Amp breaker running it. When I turn my heater on...it kicks the breaker. Can I just change that out to a 40 Amp breaker.. I'm freezing here. What can I do? It kicks every day .help me out