texts: How can I determine fuse specs for the air handler's circuit board?

texts: where in the furnace does it say if it uses a 3 amp or 5 amp fuse for the circuit board? Or how would I know which is correct


texts:
We have an old Kenmore fridge/freezer combo. It is slowly leaking water into the bottom of the fridge which is below the freezer. After doing some research we think its likely because of a clogged drain hose. We are not sure how to remove the attachment so we can clean it.

How can I remove this black drain without breaking anything so I can clean it?


texts: Why are there only 2 white wires in my celling outlet box for me to install celling fan and light?

texts: I am replacing the celling fan/light in my kitchen and when I removed the old one I didn't pay attention as I was unhooking the wires, but when I went to install the new one realized that the only 2 wires I have comming out of my celling are 2 white wires... Now what am I suoposed to hook my black/blue , and my green ground wires to ?


texts: I am re assembling a swing set made of pretty hard wood. My electric drill won't drive the screws in all the way and I have to try to use plain screwdriver.  I don't want to strip the heads though. Is there a good lubricant to use?  Is spit the best?


texts: I’m renting an older house that has wiring with no ground. I have a paper shredder and a fan plugged into the same receptacle and when the shredder is running the fan runs. The fan is not turned on.


texts: Help installing a ceiling pendant light fixture

texts: I recently bought a pendant-type fixture that contains three, silver (or aluminum?) stranded wires encased by a decorative braided cord. Two of the wires are sheathed in clear plastic and the third is not. How do I install this fixture when there is no indication of white, black or ground? The wires all seem to be the same.


texts: Do I need to add support to hold second floor joists while working?

texts: I need to replace the header above a 1sr floor window. It is 2 2x10# at 48 inches across with a piece of osb sandwiched on top of a 2*4. I am curious if I need to build a support "jig" while I am working on the problem area. Windows and siding were recently replaced everything is bone dry now so just was trying to figure out how far the cancer spread and got a little deeper than expected. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.


texts:
I finished a piece of wooden furniture I've built with industrial premade linseed oil finish. Afterwards I noticed patches where glue residues caused visible stains on the wood. This does not look so great, so I'd like to paint over with matte white and I am wondering:

Is it possible to paint over linseed oil finish. It has dried for about two weeks now and feels dry to the touch.
If so, which kind of varnish/paint should be used. I have some water based white which was used for a different project. Would this be advisable?


texts: How can I secure a plastic toolbox to the wall?

texts: I have a plastic toolbox that I want to mount on the wall. I need it to be extremely stable once mounted, and I was therefore considering simply screwing it directly to the wall. However, I'm concerned that I might crack the plastic. What would the best way be to do something like this? The toolbox is made from a softish plastic, so that's why I was even considering drilling through it.


texts: What pages should be included in a complete set of plans for residential construction?

texts:
I'm designing the plans for my new house and plan to act as my own general contractor (hiring professional labor for most trades).

I feel like I'm close to being done with the plans, but need to know what all should be included in a "complete" plan package so that I can solicit bids for labor and materials.

The building department only wants a floor plan.

What I have so far is:

Floor plan.
Front / Back / Left / Right Exterior Elevations.
Wall framing plan (top view) that shows a letter for each wall, and where they go on the slab.
Wall framing detail that shows the exact framing of each wall unit (jacks, kings, cripples, headers, corners, etc) front and top view, with annotations for where bathroom plumbing, vents, and cabinet blocking goes.
A foundation plan with a top and section view of the foundation slab and footings.
An electrical plan that shows the location of built in light fixtures, switches and receptacles.
A door and window schedule with make and models for all doors and windows.
A roof truss plan that shows the overall dimensions of the roof trusses, gable end walls, and side and isometric views of the sofit and fascia framing. (The actual trusses will be designed by an engineer at a truss company- my plans show an "example truss" with the overall dimensions and pitch to help the truss engineer understand my intent for them).

What other drawings or schedules am I missing that are necessary or useful for a "complete" package for residential construction?

There are many other types of drawings, but many seem extraneous for a modest residence (like reflected ceiling drawings, interior elevations, renderings, etc). There are websites that list all the types of architectural drawings that exists, but not just the ones that are actually useful or needed for a basic residence.


texts: How to get discount prices for replacement parts

texts:
I inherited an old fridge a while back that had a broken ice maker. I never had an ice maker before I so started to look into fixing it. I found a parts store and bought a new one for $100 and installed it myself . . . it was surprising easy.

I thought I was king of the DIY world until recently I found out that I could buy a new fan motor for my AC unit for $150 but if a "professional" went to the same supplier he could buy the fan for less than $50. Now I'm starting to think that the $100 ice maker repair from 5 years ago would cost less then $30 if I went to the store in overalls or something.

And don't get me started on the price of a capacitor for an AC unit . . . they'll charge you $200 to install a part that they list on the invoice as $140 and $60 for a service call . . . but it's a freaking capacitor! $10 tops.

How can I get the same price the pros get?


texts:
I have a Bosch SHE44c05uc/20.

One of the buttons on the door doesn't pop back when pressed. I looked inside and found that one of the little plastic springs is broken. Looks like a $.25 part, but it comes with the control panel that costs $170 to replace and no way to buy separately. Any suggestions for a workaround?


texts: What is the best way to repair a large crumbling block on a corner of the house wall?

texts:
Today I have removed a dead vine root that has caused some damage to the brick work on one corner of my house. As you can see from the picture below, along with the root a fair depth of stone has come away from the block, and I'm thinking that this needs replacing sooner rather than later, as it's the bottom brick supporting a 2 storey wall.

The blocks are quite big, so sourcing a replacement could be difficult, and removing the block all together seems like it could cause more harm than good. I have had a go at making a mix of  broken parts of block and mortar to patch in the missing stone, but having that depth of mortar stick without sliding down wasn't working.I decided that this method of repair might not be strong enough long term, and have removed the new mortar.

What is the best way to fix this wall so that it looks as attractive as possible, and provides the maximum amount of support to the wall above?


texts: replacing flooring under walls (2nd story)

texts:
I am wanting to tile my master bath.

When I pulled up the old linoleum flooring, it was particle-board.  I've read nightmares about tiling over particle board so I'm planning on replacing it with plywood + cement backer.

This is the 2nd story of my house and the walls are sitting on top of the particle-board.  On the exterior wall, I was planning on just cutting along the length of the wall as close as I can get to it and reinforcing the new plywood from underneath between the joists (which run perpendicular to the exterior wall).

However, on the interior wall near the toilet, there has obviously been a previous leak causing damage to the flooring under the wall and causing a gap (just over a 1/4in).  The level of the floor here has definitely sunk (revealed by using a level) to this point.

The other side of this wall is another toilet in another bathroom which I do not plan on renovating (yet) since it is the only other bathroom in the house.

How do I fix this?


texts: What should I do about shingles that are stuck to the sheathing?

texts:
I'm so pleased to find this diy.stackexchange.

I'm in the middle of replacing a small roof above an entry-way.  It is an area of about 100 square feet (9.3 square meters).  The top layer of shingles were completely worn out and came off easily.  The bottom layer is stuck as if with glue to the sheathing.  It seems as though instead of tar paper, the original roofer just spread actual tar instead of using tar paper (or the tar paper degraded and fused with everything around it).  I was able to pry up the parts of this bottom layer that overlapped other shingles and get most of the nails out, but the stuck parts are better fastened to the sheathing than they are to themselves.  In other words, they aren't coming off.  I would like advice for how to proceed among these four options:

Just put new shingles on top of what is left of the bottom layer of shingles
lay out tar paper or felt over what is left of the bottom layer of shingles and then shingles.
take the next several weeks to slowly scrape this tarry, shingle-shaped goop off my roof with, I don't know, a blow dryer and a cheese slicer?
I guess pulling up the sheathing itself is an option, though it is beyond my skills, I think


texts: Garage door opener makes noise but doesn't move

texts:
My Craftsman 139.53515SR - I/2HP garage door opener has worked fine for many years. For no reason that I can see, it stopped opening or closing the door yesterday. When I push the button to raise or lower it I hear some noise, like it's trying to work, then in a few seconds it stops and there has been no motion of the door or chain that raises and lowers it.

Disengaging the door from the chain allows me to raise and lower the door without problem.

It failed for 24 hours then started working.

Here is a video of it not working:(

What do you think is wrong?


texts: Could a Cadet heater release metallic nanoparticles?

texts:
I have a few Cadet wall units in my house. (These are about 12x8 in units mounted in the walls.)
One of the units has a built-in thermostat and a knob to adjust the temperature.
I don't know how old the unit is.
The strange thing is that often after running for a while the unit starts making a hissing noise. Not a buzzing but something higher pitched, like as if steam were being released from a valve. (But I don't believe there is any liquid involved here.)
My best guess is that the hissing happens when the temperature reaches and thermostat value, so the heater turns itself off, but then some other mechanism with different calibration decides it still needs to be on. And it goes back and forth very quickly. But event then I would expect to hear a bunch of fast clicking sounds, not a hissing sound. (One other detail of the hissing is that when it's in that state it can mess with my computer mouse -- like the mouse doesn't work, and then I adjust the thermostat to stop the hissing, and then the mouse works again. So there is some electrical strangeness happening.)
So one question is where the hissing comes from.
But the more important question for me is that I was recently diagnosed with a life-threatening form of sarcoidosis. It's too late to undo that now, but for sanity's sake I'm trying to understand if this misbehaving Cadet heater was partially responsible for my illness. They don't know what causes sarcoidosis, but among the few possible triggers they list are various types of inorganic dust, especially metallic dust.
So the real question is whether this hissing heater could have been spewing out aerosolized bits of metal that I was then breathing in. A friend says the heat would not be enough to break off tiny pieces of metal, but I don't know.


texts: Should I replace this fixture box or get creative with the mounting?

texts:
I recently took down a ceiling fan/light in order to replace it with track lighting. After disassembling the fan I was left with this fixture box:

As you can see there are two holes in which to affix the mounting bracket with two provided screws. However, either the screws are too small or the thread inside each hole is stripped as I can easily pull the screws back out after attempting to tighten them. So I a wondering if I am better of replacing the mount or attempting to get bigger screws or tighten with a nut?


texts: I want to lay a 9 x 9 concrete slab for 125 psi hot tub how thick do I have to make it? And what kind of base should I use?


texts: Diagnosing a non-starting chainsaw [Makita EA7300P / Dolmar DCS7301]

texts:
I have a chainsaw that won't start and I'm not particularly good at diagnosing the problem.  I had something happen like this about four months ago.  I drained the tank, put in fresh gas and it was fine.  This time, I've put in fresh gas, changed the sparkplug, cleaned the carburator and replaced all the gaskets and still it does not start.  Rarely do I ever hear a spark catch.  Usually the chainsaw sounds like this:

Google drive audio link of non-starting saw

The cylinder does get flooded with gas after a few start attempts so I doubt it's a primary fuel filter problem.  Have some filters on order and will try changing them in the future. But I did take the filter out and it seems to pass fuel just fine.

Generally this is a lightly-used chainsaw.  There's roughly only two times a year I put this saw to use, otherwise it sits idle much of the time. It's almost three years old and this is the first time I've had real trouble getting it to start.

The saw.

Air filter appears reasonably clean.

Carburator in the saw.

Carburator out of the saw.

Sparkplug out of the saw.

Topside of opened carburator. The fine filter appears clean.

Bottomside of opened carburator.

New gaskets.

The plug does spark, although the spark appears a bit weak.  I will quantify this soon.

The muffler / exhaust mesh is clean.

So I'm starting to run out of ideas.  When I cleaned the carburator I sprayed them with an aerosol carburator cleaner, then used compressed air.  There's a few tiny holes in the carburator [see the three brass items on the bottomside picture] and it's difficult for me to see if they are clear or not.  Perhaps I need to soak the carburator in cleaner for a longer period of time -- complete submersion?   Other than that, and the fuel filter, I'm at a loss.   Would I be having this problem if I put a bit too much oil in the fuel mixture?  A 50:1 ratio is hard to get precise in these small quantities.  Somehow I doubt that's the problem.

edit: When I try to start it, then quickly take out the sparkplug I find a fine mist in the ignition chamber.  So it looks like the carburator is doing it's job.  The sparks produced are quite faint and weak looking. If I increase the gap on the sparkplug it continues to throw a spark, but it remains very faint.  Are the ignition coils servicable on these things?

It appears not.  I've put in an order for a PET 4000EC spark tester so I should be able to test the spark thrown vs. a healthy (similar) chainsaw soon.  Not quite certain how to test the coil.

Aha! The Bailey's website has the service manual for this saw.  The direct link does not look very stable -- I found it by googling "Dolmar service manual".

Getting the chainsaw to this point isn't much work.

Removing the flywheel appears to be the most technical part here.  Not certain if I won't mess this up -- the manual refers to special parts and precise spacing.

Wasn't certain how to get the flywheel off.  What I did is suspend the chainsaw (by the flywheel) by making a little "net" of string for it to hang off.   I loosened the bolt, then whacked the bolt with a hammer.   From there I could undo the bolt and pull off the flywheel.

The coil came out fairly easily after that.

I have a replacement coil on order, so I should be able to compare this coil with the new one.  I hope it's the coil that's the problem or I'll feel pretty silly for going to this length of work.


texts: GFCI trips when reset and many devices are connected to it

texts:
I have connected a GFCI 15A to a 20A breaker although all outlets have the typical 15A NEMA. Whenever I turn it on it trips if any devices are connected. If I disconnect everything it doesn't trip. Any ideas on why this may be happening?

Without the GFCI (when I remove it and put a regular outlet) everything operates normally.


texts: I have 4 wires (red,black,bare,white) from the ceiling. From my new light fixture I have 3 wires (black,green,white). Which two switches for the light. I wired it black and red to black from fixture, white to white, and green to bare. And my light will not turn off. What did I do wrong? Power is good, checked with a fluke meter.


texts:
In attempting to get a permit to install a basement bathroom, our township building inspector is demanding we install an egress window. She has put a stop work order in the meantime. Naturally, we need to move. This has been going on for nearly a month. Everything we dispute one claim, they make another. First, it was because there is some drywall. Next, it was because she claimed the bathroom made it a habitable area.  When I pointed out that the code she is claiming to go by specifically says bathrooms don't count as habitable, her and the building department manager decided ALL basements have to have egress windows. Period.

It's the 2009 IRC that they claim to be going by.

R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required. Basements, habitable attics and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening.

So, I said, why doesn't my side door that connects to the basement by stairwell count? There is no other room. Nothing to block it. By the very definition in the code it should count.

EMERGENCY ESCAPE AND RESCUE OPENING. An operable exterior window, door or similar device that provides for a means of escape and access for rescue in the event of an emergency.

THAT is the complete definition AND the document itself says nothing is to be altered if already defined in the document. Only thing I wanted to check, and according to Webster, since they DON'T define an exterior door, and that is defined as a door allowing entry and exit to/from the outside.

I would have no problem if this was really necessary but we are putting in a bathroom. No recreation room, no bedrooms. Storage and a utility room. That's it. Can't get any satisfaction from the township, needless to say. We're considering just doing it so we can get this nonsense done and then suing in court for causing us unnecessary expense.

Any thoughts? I mentioned we need to move. We bought the house a couple months ago and have been trying to get it ready before moving in. So much for that plan.....


texts: Dryer being on of off effects other appliances, and has no heat

texts: Dryer is new, uses 3 prong outlet from old dryer. been working for over a month. Now, the motor works but no heat. However, the real puzzle is that when I turn it off, the oven, the fridge, the ceiling fan and outlet in the kitchen shut off, as do the lights in the basement and the furnace fan. The outlets in the rest of the house work fine. There appear to be no circuit breakers blown. One last clue, it seems there is some minimal power in some (maybe all) of the lines... the computer shut off, tried to start and continued to shut off before booting and the light in the microwave in on, but when I attempted to heat something, it simply exhibited a grunt and shut down.


texts: Why does my kitchen faucet have 3 pipes?

texts: My kitchen sink has a peculiar setup I haven't seem before. The faucet has 3 pipes and there is an electric water heater under the sink. The first pipe brings cold water into the faucet. The second pipe bring cold water from the faucet into the water heater. The third pipe brings warm water from the heater back to the faucet. Why can't the cold water be supplied directly to the water heater without the initial trip to the faucet?


texts:
I'm planning on buying a solder iron from ebay, the device has a US plug but it uses 220V-240V
I know US outlets only uses 110V.
What I want to know is just because they change the plug to a american plug is it safe to use?
Will changing the plug automatically convert it to 110 V?


texts: Filling post holes where fence was removed - suburban backyard environment

texts: My next door neighbor had their fence replaced recently.  The new fence is further from the property line than the old fence was, so I have either 5 or 6 holes where the old posts were located.  I am going to fill these holes with gravel and then add dirt/topsoil and some grass patch quick fix.  Is there a recommended amount of topsoil to put down on top of the gravel?  I know I will have settling with the gravel fill, so the grass will wait until next year.


texts: Should insulation batts in my attic be lifted off the ceiling, leaving a gap?

texts:
I have what appears to be R-30 unfaced fiberglass insulation batts between my ceiling joists.  The installation looks like I would expect, except that the batts appear to have been pulled away from the ceiling drywall such that there is an air space between the drywall and the insulation.  Some batts are bowed up and others have their edges exposed to the attic (not fully in contact with the joist as a result of being pulled up).  Because the house has non-IC can lights, the insulation isn't continuous, meaning that the otherwise insulated air pocket is effectively vented to the attic every so often.

I would expect that insulation in direct contact with the drywall would perform best.  It's not clear to me if this was done by the builder to make the insulation appear to be thicker than it actually is, if it has crept over time due to thermal expansion or other movement, or if this is a superior way to insulate an attic.

If it matters, I live in CA and the house is mid-1980s vintage.

This is typical of what I'm seeing.  The batt on the left has its sides touching the ceiling joist, but will sit 2-3 inches lower if I push it down against the ceiling drywall.  The batt on the right does not have its sides consistently touching the joist.

Here's a quick takeout from ubakus, though I couldn't find a way for it to show as a vertical space rather than a wall.  The air gap between insulation and my roof sheathing ranges from 2-16 feet; I used 4 feet in this model.


texts: How to remove about 1/4" of wood from in-place beam?

texts:
Previous owner of my house installed a staircase by creating an opening in the ceiling/floor.  One side of this opening is a major support beam of the house --- 12" high, probably 4" wide.  Single solid piece of wood.  This beam is bowed outward.  I would like flatten it out so I can put some drywall over it.  This would require removing somewhere around 1/4" to 3/8" over a span of about two feet, and a lesser amount outside of that.

I'm familiar with using sanders, and I know it would do the job --- eventually.  But that seems like an awful lot of wood to try to remove that way.  I'm not familiar with using other tools that might be useful here --- chisels?  planes?

What would be the right tool for this job?   And BTW, is there a name for this kind of wood working operation?  (Can't google it if you don't know what to call it...)


texts: How can I protect bathroom wood from mold?

texts:
I have bought bamboo fittings in the bathroom (towel holders, dishes etc). I see that as a result of hanging damp towels on the towel holders, a black mold is accumulating on the bottom of the holder bar.

What would be the best treatment for the bamboo in order to seal from the elements?

edit: I live near the sea and things do not dry as quick as i would want them to. And no, there are no extractor fans in the bathroom.


texts: Replacing rotted out window sill in basement block wall

texts:
Long story short - the previous owner hired a crackhead to pave over the dirt driveway. The guy ended up raising the grade beyond the basement window sills on one corner of the house, and here's what it looks like now:

The bottom casings, and sills appear to be completely rotted out at this point:

Rot #1:
Rot #2:
Rot #3:

The basement is finished, and there does not appear to be any water damage inside... yet. I would certainly like to keep it that way.

From inside #1:
From inside #2:

Obviously the first issue that needs to be addressed is drainage around the windows - I have a pretty good plan in place for this which I will be posting separately for critique. What I'm looking for is the best way to replace just the sills without tearing out the whole window.

This is what I was thinking to do:

Cutting the sill on the inside, flush with the window using a toe kick saw / osciliating tool.
Dig/cut/remove any trace of the cut off sill piece from outside.
Rip a 2*2? (not sure the windows frame thickness) and liquid nail it into place.
Attach new casing.
Caulk inside and out.

-Is this the correct approach?

-What about flashing - what is the correct way to use flashing and which flashing to use in this situation?

-Should the replacement sill piece be from pressure treated wood?


texts: How can I prevent the mantel above a gas fireplace from getting hot?

texts:
When I moved into this house, the unvented gas fireplace had no mantel or hood. It worked OK, although I thought the tile above the fireplace (and the sheetrock behind it) got rather hot. When I burned it for long periods, I would take the picture we have hanging above it down. A couple of years ago I bought a wood mantel, painted it white and hung it above the fireplace. Now the mantel gets hot. I doubt it would burst into flames, but its too hot to touch and would probably peel the paint off if left on too long.

I figured I needed a fireplace hood. Off to ebay and went and bought a hood. It sticks out 4.5 inches. I found a bargain on a brass one for $30 and thought it looked fine but my wife informed me it was ugly and looked like something from the 70's. Once again, I learned I have no taste.

Turns out the hood didn't help much, the tile above the fireplace and the mantel still gets hot. Not only that, it blocks some vents at the top of the fireplace which the instructions say is a no-no.

It appeared to me the heat needs to be directed up and away. I had some aluminum flashing laying around so I made a prototype shield. My idea was just to test it and if it works make one out of sheet metal as soon as I find a shop with a sheer and a brake. The good news is that it works great. The bad news is that its ugly.

Ok, the questions:

Has anyone else had an experience with the mantel getting so hot?
Has anyone seen a mantel heat shield like this I can buy?
If I stick with the homemade route - any ideas on how I can make it look better. (I do plan to paint it black and maybe cut it back some)
Any other creative ideas of what i can do for this problem? Maybe put a shield directly under the mantel?


texts: How do I replace an old-style ("wide screw posts") garage T-lock handle?

texts:
My garage features an old-style T-handle very similar to Prime-Line GD 52169 or National Hardware V7643, except that the distance between the hole centers is 1-3/4".

Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find replacement handles anywhere - the only ones available have the distance of 1-1/2". Is there any way or trick to replace the T handle without drilling new holes and replacing most of the lock?

The only part that has similarly distanced holes is an L-handle (Prime-Line GD 52123), but apart from having a different shape it also seems to feature real holes on the sides, not the shafts. I am not sure if it would fit the T-lock assembly.

Where can I find a replacement handle?


texts: How can I extend a surge protector's cable?

texts:
I want to buy surge protected socket however these products generally has 1.5-2 meters long cable but it isn't enough for me. On socket there is a warning:

"Plug in this product directly to.wall plug and do not use any other extension sockets in a row."

In this warning last sentence confused me. I need 4-5 meters long, therefore I'm thinking about plug in typical triplet sockets to wall plug and then using surge protected sockets. Is it appropriate use?


texts: Water is coming out from shower hose every time I use water in any part of my house

texts:
The shower water seem to have a life of it’s own.It is not stopping regardless. When using the sink or washing machine, even the kitchen sink, the shower stream changes dynamicly with a pumping sound.
when using the sink, the shower goes on and when I turn the sink tap off, the shower stops.
when I turn on the kitchen sink or use the washing machine, water from the shower hose is coming out, but the problem is, when I turn off the water at the kitchen sink, water from shower hose doesn't stop. I need to go to the bathroom and turn on and off the bathroom sink to stop water at shower hose.

So the only way to stop water from shower hose is turning on and off bathroom sink.


texts: Purpose of pressure control valve in multipoint water heater

texts: Most instant tankless multipoint water heater has plastic pressure valve where you can control the water pressure either in the inlet or outlet (by turning the scew below). If you make the flow weaker, does it make the water colder or hotter given the same thermostat setting)? And what if there is no pressure valve?


texts: Ideas for fixing 8cm gap between laminate and wall

texts:
I intentionally left a 8cm gap between laminate and a wall because there was an uneven wood beam in the concrete along the wall. I had the same problem in another room and I just put laminate over the bump and seems OK, so I think leaving the gap was a mistake.

Is there any way to fill that gap so that it ends up being same level as the rest of the floor. Ideally without a transition piece that sticks out of the floor (like a t mold).
For example, one solution would be to glue many 8cm short laminate planks and effectively lengthen the existing pieces. But I'm afraid it won't look nice and moreover some of the ends of the existing pieces are not perfectly straight as they were cut.


texts: Why would three-way switch travelers both show as hot?

texts:
We have a three-way switch setup to control our living room light. Our staircase is on the far wall of our living room and one switch is downstairs while the other is at the top of the stairs. The last owner of the home 'completely rewired' the house as it used to have knob-and-tube wiring. However, we've found out since that he only did this in easily accessible areas and anywhere else that he opened the boxes at, he simply pigtailed off of the old wires to feed the new devices.

The problem with the switches was that they both seemed to act as single pole switches in series.. the upstairs switch had to be on for the downstairs switch to work. The switch upstairs was a new three-way switch connected up in that pigtail fashion. The switch downstairs, which we didn't notice until we took the cover off, was a really old three-way switch that was still connected with the original wires (appears it was never modified.) After taking it off of the lines, we were able to see that it must have been fried internally as a continuity test showed that when it was flipped one way, there would be no power to either traveler. However, if it was flipped the other, both travelers would become powered. We figured this was the problem (even though I'm not sure why it would function as it did), added a new switch in it's place, and reconnected the wires on both switches.

The switch that was upstairs was put in place downstairs and we added a new three-way upstairs (not sure entirely why, we just happened to carry it down with us) and so I'm wondering if it could have been fried as well on the inside. As I still don't get why the circuit was acting like two single pole switches. The power fed in through the downstairs switch, went up the walls to the second floor switch, and then went to the light back downstairs and finally fed it's way back to the panel (the neutrals weren't run together originally). I'm not sure where the homeowner tied the old wires to the new ones, but there are no old wires ran into the panel, so he's had to of done it somewhere.

So now, our light works as desired - both switches can cut it on or off in any layout. I gave the above information in case it helps explain any of what I'm wondering about. While we were testing it, I used a non-contact voltage tester at the upstairs switch to see which were hot to insure that we weren't having the same problem as last time. Although the switches work perfectly by visual of the living room light, every other flip of the downstairs switch was showing both travelers hot. Flip it one way and we'd have power to say the left, but flip it the other and both sides were getting powered.. as far as the voltage tester showed.

The downstairs switch would work by diverting the power from traveler to traveler, while the upstairs switch would work by picking which side to accept power from. So if both travelers are getting power, then why would either switch still work at cutting the light off? Possibly just a small amount of power bleeding through?


texts: Should there be nylon seals between a basin and taps?

texts: I have just had a new bathroom installed and the plumber has not put any rubber or nylon seals between the basin and bath taps that are placed on ceramic fixtures. Should there be seals between ?


texts: How to remove this door knob and plate with no obvious screws

texts:
So I've been trying to take out a sticky door knob to give it some grease and tigthen up the loose jiggles, but I can't figure out how to remove the full knob.  I removed the end bit and don't know how to remove the plate and the shaft.  I wedged a screwdriver underneath the plate, but that didn't pop it off and I'm hesitant to apply more force.

Is there a spot I'm supposed to pull on?  Do I need to somehow remove some of those inner ring clips around the door knob shaft?


texts: Can I swap the tumblers in two locks from the same manufacturer?

texts:
Can I swap the tumblers between two different locks from the same manufacturer?

In this particular case, is it possible to swap the set of tumblers from one of the knobs into the wave handle?

The deadbolt on my front door is difficult to get the key into and out of and I've currently got no key to my back door at all. So I'd like to just replace both sets and get everything operating on one key that works everywhere.

The only catch is that I've got a lever on the front door instead of a knob, and I actually really like that as it's much easier to operate when you have groceries or the like. So, I'm planning to buy a full double-set of keyed alike knobs and deadbolts for the front and back door and a lever for the front foor. Then just swap out one of the sets of tumblers from the full set into the lever if possible. I'd hope it would be, but I'm uncertain.


texts:
Once I saw on  an episode of This Old House that they were putting in hot water return lines: pipes that recirculate idle hot water back to the heater so you get hot water right away, instead of wasting time and water.

My wife and I are looking to getting our first home and I think this might be a beneficial investment to make at some point. I also am skeptical of the cost.

Is it worth it to install them? Or is it a matter of convenience?


texts: How to fix asphalt cracked in large chunks?

texts:
I have a small asphalt ramp from the garage sloping towards the alley.

It seems that either the salt or the city snow plowers cracked the corner and shattered a section of it.

I tried to piece it back together.  How can I fill in the cracks and keep it together?

Here's what it looks like


texts: I need to vent our metal utility closet doors. 1 3/4 inch thick metal doors. Need to supply ventilation so the heat exchange water heaters will work more efficiently. Now the closets become freezing cold when the water heater is on. Where to get? Grainger?


texts: Will this arrangement of bricks be a good base for a concrete floor for a garden shed?

texts:
I am building a 6ft x 4ft garden shed which will have a concrete base.
I've levelled some ground, built a frame, and made a floor out of old bricks.

The ground is fairly clay-heavy. I've been stamping down on the bricks and they seem stable. Cement will be about 6-9cm from the top of the bricks to the top of the frame. There is a few millimetres of gap between the bricks, I imagine the cement will not flow between them and hence it will be kept clear of pooling water. The bricks are partially above and partially below the level of the surrounding soil.
I haven't worked with cement before but based on what I've read I believe this will work.
Can you see any problems? Is there anything missing? Do I still need grit? Rebar? Or is it okay to just go ahead and pour?


texts: How do I fill my grill's propane tank from my house tank?

texts:
Anybody have a good method to transfer propane from the 500 gallon tank to the grill tank? Seems that the filling the grill tank costs about $4 a gallon but the 500 is $1.50.

Whats the rig that works the best and doesn't break the bank? I anticipate its an Evacuation Valve onto the Dip Tube and a hose and a tank valve.  What else should I be looking for?


texts: Solar panel as a hatch and Is sleeping under a solar panel safe?

texts: I'm looking to build a very large custom roof hatch/vent on my van. I was going to make to top out of Lexan, but then I realized I might want a large solar panel on the roof as well.  I was looking at the aluminum structure of solar panels and read the edges are water tight.  Any reason I can't use the solar panel itself as my hatch top? Structurally I think it will work, and I know panels get hot just like my metal roof gets hot,  but wonder if there are any chemical reactions or gases that will enter the van as a result of the back side of the solar panel working.  I also know solar panels need ventilation underneath, but then again, so does my van inside during a hot day.


texts: I have a bank of wall outlets that are not working. I have checked the fuses and found all of them check ok at 120 v ac. I then replaced all three outlets with new ones and still have no power. I did check the power on all of the lines to each outlet and found no power to every socket. (There are three). I then went to the attic where the line goes into the wall and traced the line to the power source and found no breaks that I could see or identify. So now I am stuck????


texts: I have two cables going into a ceiling electrical box; how can I tell which is coming from the panel?


texts: I am upgrading my thermostat (Have AC & Heat) and found that it doesn't have the "C" wire that I need to power my new thermostat. The furnace does have a terminal for C, but only condensation pump is connected. Can I simply run an 18 gauge wire from the furnace C to the thermostat C. to have a fully functioning, powered thermostat? There are already 5 wires connected. I have attached a picture of my furnace wiring in case more information is needed.


texts: What gauge wire for long run from power supply to LED light strip?

texts:
I am wiring in some 5050 RGB LED strip lights in my basement. There is a small utility room adjoining and I'm keen to keep the  transformers and signal amplifiers in there in order that they can be hidden away, but remain accessible should anything need replacing in future.

I'm putting the lights behind coving like this: https://starscape.co.uk/project11.html

The only point in can bring the wires in to connect the LED strips is shown on the plan below. (This is because there is an RSJ blocking access before this point.) This means that I need to run some fairly long lengths of cable to connect the signal amps to the LED strips. This is shown on the plan below, and the simplified version below that:

There's a clearer version here which shows the lengths etc better.

The power supplies I am using are these (100W version), and the signal amps are these. I was going to use this RGB wire to connect the signal amps to the LED strips but was concerned about voltage drop / heat over the 3m / 8m lengths.

Is this cable OK to use, or should I use something heavier gauge? (If so, where can I get this (in the UK)? Considered 3 core and earth, but don't like the idea of using it for DC as it seems "wrong" / confusing to send current on the earth / use non-standard colours etc.

As far as I can work out the cable is about 20AWG. I've been getting royally confused trying to work out the voltage drop and:

a) whether this is relevant (some sites seem to suggest the LED drivers compensate for this)

b) what gauge wire I need (according to my sums I need 14AWG to keep the VD to a minimum, but the fact that no-one readily sells this for LED lights makes me think I'm misunderstanding something

If anyone has any real world experience of this I'd love some advice!


texts: Tub Faucet Handle goes back too far when turned off

texts:
My Delta roman tub faucet handle goes back too far when it is turned off. I tried to take the decorative base off (screws) and now that is stuck. I put WD40 in the thread area but it still won't move. So I have two questions:

how do I get the handle aligned correctly?
if the handle repairs requires me to take the base off, how can I get it unstuck?

I know that it screws off because I removed the one for the hot water easily


texts: Can this water valve be replaced as a separate component?

texts:
Crack in bottom part of backflow preventer can you just replace this part or do you have to buy entire unit??

Thanks,
Eileen


texts:
What are your thoughts on this Rube Goldberg system I may try this spring in Wilmington, NC.

A shallow well about 15 feet to the well point; static water at 10 feet.

Water temp at 58-60 degrees out of the ground.

Solar powered magnetic water pump drawing water from this well and pushing it about 20 feet through an insulated pex line that connects to stacked finned copper tubing encased in a 3'x2' frame, with 4 (?) large desktop computer fans blowing across it continuously while the sun shines.  The fans are also solar powered, from the same 100 watt (?) panel driving the pump.  Water cycles through the tubing and exits to a PVC waste water line under the house. The goal is to cool one room about 300 sq ft by 8 feet height (2400 cubic feet.)


texts: Should the ground lug be bonded in my sub-panel?

texts:
I have 200 amp service at the house.  I want to install a DP 60 amp breaker in that panel and run # 6 wire approximately 150 feet (10% added for swag) overhead to a dog rescue building.  The building will have a window AC installed (7.8A@208V), plus a number of 20" box fans (0.8A each) , and LED lighting for a 480 square foot building.  The AC unit is the only thing pulling a significant amount of power.

It is my understanding that the grounds and the neutrals need to be separated.  Does that mean I should not install the bonding screw which I think is meant to tie the ground and the neutral together?

Next, can I run 6/3 without the additional ground as long as I sink 2 grounding rods at the sub-panel, at least 6 feet apart?  This is not my house!  The sub-panel (which had been fed by an extension cord) is either from HD or Lowe's (Homeline?).  It has a factory installed 100 amp main breaker which does not appear to be replaceable.

Since the main panel has a DP 60 amp breaker this 100 amp breaker will basically be a switch to kill the sub-panel.  If I use AL wire for the 150 ft should I drop the breaker in the main panel to a 50amp?


texts: USA: What is a code compliant method of running 12/2 through wood ledger board and into outside junction box?

texts: I need to run one circuit of 12/2 from the basement (ranch house) up to the attic and then outside via the ledger board of the roof over my deck. Should I screw a short nipple into the back of the junction box (outdoor rated) and feed the wire through that so when I attach it to the board the nipple goes into the attic and the 12/2 cable is not exposed in any way to the outside? The junction box I have has little knobs on the back so when it is screwed to the ledger board there would be a small 1/8" gap all the way around. I'm at work currently but I will take some pics of the area in question and add them.


texts: Why is my hot water circulator causing there to be hot water in hot and cold pipes?

texts: I have a Grundfos circulation pump.  It is installed on top of the hot water heater and feeds directly into the hot water pipe feeding the entire house.  It also has a timer that I use.  When hot water is circulating, all water pipes, hot and cold have hot water coming out of them until we run the cold water a long time, after which only cold comes out of the cold water pipe.  What is causing this?


texts: Is there an approximate substitute for a Torx T40 bit?

texts:
I needed a Torx T40 bit for a job, but that bit was missing from my toolbox.

I didn't want to strip the bolts (they were fastened tightly over a decade ago), so I had to wait until I could get the exact bit.

Is there an approximate substitute for a Torx T40 bit that I could have used?


texts: I want to add a pilot light to a light in my basement. I want to position the pilot light upstairs so when I'm upstairs I will know if the light has been left on in the basement. I'd like a recommendation on the simplest way to complete this.


texts: One dead outlet in 3 way switched circuit

texts: Three stairway lights are controlled by two switches at the top and bottom of stairs. The outlet at the bottom of the stairs is dead.  Both switches are wired with two blacks and a red, with commons tied off.  The dead outlet does not seem to be at the end of the circuit; the box has a cable running elsewhere (two commons and two hots). No sign of power in or around the outlet box. I have checked all connections except those in the other outlets (high ceiling).  What could be going on?


texts: I am putting a gate across my driveway which is 14ft between posts on either side. Its going to be wood and all 1x6 and 1x8 lumber to keep weight down. Each gate will be about 7ft long so I was thinking of putting a wheel at the end of both. I live in NH so Im sinking the post hole 4ft and the gate will be 4ft tall. Do I need to use a 6x6 and if so does the hole have to be 18in wide or can I do a 12in hole with a sonotube and concrete?


texts: Toilet Flange - Replace, Keep and Shim, or Something Else?

texts:
I just installed new floor in my bathroom. I'm getting ready to install the new toilet, but I think I might have got some bad advice on how to handle the flange.
Currently I have a metal/PVC flange that's slightly bent in the back, but otherwise okay. I did not floor under the flange per the advice I received, so the flange is just floating. The top of the flange is between 1/4" and 1/2" above the finished floor. The flange looks like it would rest on the finished floor had I installed floor under it. It looks like the existing flange is glued to the outside the pipe.
Do I need to remove the flange? I think I could just shim under it to support it, but there isn't a lot of room. I could replace the flange, but that's a whole thing, and I'd still need to shim it since the floor doesn't come under the existing flange.
How would you recommend I solve this problem?


texts: I have the intension of buying a Drill, At shops, I see the corded and cordless Types, Although the cordless drill is more handy and portable, I always have a little doubt about that it's effectiveness and efficiency might not be as the corded type.....Is it true and also is choosing a cheaper manufacturer going because they are cheaper going to affect the quality of the Drill?


texts: I have an old garage where I want to make an office. The floor is not 100%  leveled and has some holes. I read about self leveling material for the floor. Is this something one can apply? is it easy? Are there other diy solutions?


texts:
I am trying to determine the best way possible to get a 240v outlet to my detached garage approximately 25' from the breaker panel inside the house.  I currently have 2 separate feeds to the garage now run in conduit. Each 12/2 w/ground feed is connected to its own 20 amp breaker inside the house.  I will still need 120v service for existing electrical devices in addition to the new 240v.  Any way I can utilize the existing feeds to wire a sub panel perhaps???

Note: Existing 120v feeds each serve half the garage.

Thanks in advance!!!!


texts: How can I route a 4" duct through a partition wall framed with 2x4s?

texts:
In the last picture I am moving a register (1) to (2). The left side of the picture shows where the 4" duct is sitting at the top of the wall (running across the joists). This is a bathroom. I need the duct to land at the base of that wall.
I have two options:

use a 4 to 3 reducer and an 3 to 3 elbow and continue to use 3" all the way down to the register boot, practically reducing the size of the duct (this increases the static pressure in the AC system and will send more air to other parts of the system)
use an elbow transition from 4" to a boot that is 10x3-1/4 and use a range duct, shown in the last picture (if this is OK)

The right side of the picture show the framing details. As far as I can see from what was done on the opposite wall (where the duct is landing now) they cut the horizontal stud and created two segments on that wall and added studs to close the two cuts (practically creating two frames joined by the bottom horizontal stud

The room size is 102x78x96=763776 cubinc in or 442 cubic feet


texts:
We recently purchased a resale house, which is about 25 years old. I just noticed there is a gap where the floor, wall and stair (leading to basement) meet. The gap seems pretty big (about 1 cm). This was not caught by the inspector.
Is this something to be concerned of or I can simply caulk it?


texts: How to calculate stair stringer when total RISE is small?

texts:
I have a interior landing (a room entrance) sitting at 12 inches from the floor.  I'm having trouble running the numbers on the stringer calculation since dividing the total rise by 7 is 1.  That means 1 step (tread).

Technically I need 2 steps (treads) including the tread which is at the TOP of the stairs which should sit flush with the landing.

How can this calculation account for this top step?  Also, for this short height, I'm assuming I need wider treads -- any tips to calculate this would be excellent.


texts: Do I need a mixing valve in my boiler/water heater system?

texts:
My hot water seems to run out sooner in the winter than in the warmer months. This has been the case for the 5 years I’ve lived here. Last year seemed worse and this year though seems like even more so. We’ve had no changes to our living situation. I had a plumber come and he checked the efficiency on the water heater, said it’s all good but that the installation was done improperly. That it needs a mixing valve and a pump, we turn the temp up and the tank will last longer and recover faster. He wrote up the estimate with “boiler not piped with priority and no mixing valve. Bandaid repair install mixing valve on tank and set outlet temp to 120 degrees and raise tank temp.”

Does this sound legit or is he just working an extra $900 out of me for plumbing work only to turn around and tell me I need a new water heater afterward?

Thanks.


texts: Where should I connect the green ground wire in main panel next to meter?

texts:
I am wondering what would be the correct location to connect the unconnected green ground wire in main panel next to meter. The detached garage has it's own ground rod. It is being fed by the double pole 50 amp breaker in main panel next to meter. I attached photos. The bare aluminum cable in main connects to ground bus bar in breaker box located inside house. The ground rod under meter connects to inside meter box only.
The hanging #6 green wire and 3 other black #6 wires run 60ft underground in conduit to detached garage sub panel. Two black #6 are on each pole of double 50 amp breaker and other black #6 is on neutral bar of main box next to meter.


texts: Hey :) I have a blown breaker. I live in a townhouse and there is no main shut off in my place. I took the cover off the panel, shut off that breaker, did a voltage test on the wires and no alarm so I removed the wires. I tried wiggling the breaker but it wouldn’t come out then realize it’s a bolt in breaker. Used my voltage tester at that acre holding it on and alarm is going off, now I’m afraid to touch that screw to get it out. It’s for our baseboard heater and northern Canadian winter, need heat ASAP. Do I need an electrician or is that bolt safe to remove then I just put a new breaker in?


texts: I am replacing carpet with LVP in my bedroom, the LVP is going to flow into the hallway (no transition), I need to raise my wood floor 1/2" in the bedroom to match the height of the hallway, can I use OSB or should I use Plywood?


texts: Screen Door Pneumatic Tube stopper: What are they called and why is mine not working?

texts:
We prefer to keep our screen doors (or "storm doors" as I guess they are also known by) open all the time. We only really want them shut when we keep the main door open for a breeze or to let our cats look out longingly for freedom.

A few months back a pizza delivery guy for whatever  reason thought I was holding the door open with my mind (my hands occupied by pizzas) and thought he would kindly close the screen door for us. Clearly of superior intelligence (or supernatural powers), when it didn't close right away, he started shoving and yanking to show that he was a stronger jedi than me.

Well, the force was strong in this one.  Ever since, we can't prop that door open. The bit seems intact (not bent or anything), but we slide it over and it just gets pushed back.

I was going to stop at a hardware store to see if that piece is sold solo, but I thought I'd do my homework first.

I've tried "jamb", "stopper", "stop", and "slider", all of which bring up results, but none that resemble the bit that locks our pneumatic tube in place (guess I'll try "lock" next).

So:

What are those things called? They are basically a square washer with a flappy tongue that you slide to where you want the tube to stop, and
Based on the scenario of the closing by force, is it likely that this bit with no name just needs replacing, or do I need to adjust something else, or did he break my door?

Also, can the bits be purchased solo and easily replaced?


texts: Can I use a paint & primer combo on new wood?

texts:
I'm currently painting a window and door that are both new. Although I initially bought primer which I used on the window (but haven't painted over yet), when doing the door, I just used my paint/primer.

I only did the front part of the door this way, and then realized maybe I've made a mistake? Is the paint/primer not good enough on its own? Or can I continue painting the door with just that, and then do a second coat to ensure full coverage?


texts: Can I put a standard light switch in line with a 240v electric baseboard heater to cut power to it?

texts:
I'm installing a small baseboard heater in a back bedroom, adding it to a 240V circuit with two heaters already installed in other rooms. I mainly use the two heaters on low when I am away to prevent pipes from freezing. I heat with wood when there. I would like to be able to totally cut off power to the newly added third heater. This bedroom gets closed off when I am away and since the heater has a built in thermostat with lowest setting of 32degrees it will likely come on when the room is closed off. I don't need or want that...waste of electricity! No pipes back there. I would like to install a switch to the line before it reaches the heater to simply cut the power to that back bedroom heater when I'm away.

Would there be any issues with this type set up?

Do I need any special kind of switch or will a basic 20amp 120/240V light switch do the trick?
Thanks.


texts: Replacing receptacles protected by one GFCI outlet

texts:
My current setup is one GFCI receptacle and three regular receptacles downstream that are protected by the one. Everything had been working fine (it even tripped recently and I reset it, so I know it works). Today I decided to swap the three downstream from cream to white colored ones. I swapped two of them and now I cannot get any of the outlets in the series to work. I have tried resetting the GFCI while breaker is on, I have rewired the outlets four times each now, three times with screws and once with the push-ins. I am at a loss. Only thing that is different is the color and the new ones are “tamper resistant”.
Looking for ideas.


texts: Should I be using the little copper bit inside this 3/8 water connection?

texts:
The adapter I use to get standard 3/8” water connections on the 1/2” pex in my home (to replace a faucet for example) always comes with a little copper piece (on the right of the picture) inside the connection.

What is this? Should I be using it? I sort of assumed that it and the nut there are for if you're running your own custom line, but now I’m getting paranoid that I’m messing up. Thanks!


texts: I want to run a 60 amp sub panel to my shed 200'+ out back. This will only run a few lights, an outlet and run to a chicken coop for a heat lamp in the winter. What size wire would get it done? I will be putting it below ground in conduit. Thank you for any help or guidance you can give.


texts: Difference between geothermal and regular hydronic zone valves

texts:
Taco makes two variants of zone valves - one type for general hydronic use, and another type marketed especially for geothermal use.

What is the difference in valves that particularly suits them for one application or the other?

All the manufacturer's literature I can find (so far) basically reads identically for both products. But the geothermal variants are more expensive. Having looked at samples myself, I don't see any superficially obvious differences. The actual valve portions appear to be potentially identical; but there could be some differences in the actuators ether mechanically or electronically which would not be obvious.

(Perhaps other manufacturers have a similar offering, I just happen to be a little familiar with Taco's).

Assuming there are substantive differences, in a pinch could one be used in the "wrong" application successfully? (e.g., using a regular hydronic in a geothermal system, or vice-versa).

Note - both samples I've seen are normally closed, so apparently the answer is not that one is normally open.

Example:


texts: How do I install a cabinet door underneath a breakfast bar?

texts:
I have a cabinetry-based question that I hope I can get some guidance.

The girlfriend's condo has a U-shaped kitchen.  One part of the U has a built-in breakfast bar.  I’m looking to install a cabinet door underneath the bar that will allow a second access to one of the kitchen cabinets (the cabinet that is in the corner of the U).  Has anyone done this?  Does this require one be a pro contractor or can someone that’s reasonably good with tools pull this off?

(Not that I think it would make a difference, but the reason why we’re wanting to do this is because the cabinet in question is long and skinny and it’s hard to reach stuff that has gotten pushed into the depths of the cabinet).


texts: Can you safely drill into the track/jamb of a vinyl window?

texts:
I was installing some window locks that required drilling into the track of a vinyl window.

The windows are pretty standard builder grade Anderson single hung vinyl windows.

Two questions,

Will drilling into the track void the warranty?
Warranty issues aside, will drilling into the track cause any actual issues (for instance, condensation)?


texts: Fridge and freezer getting warm after power outage but still turns on

texts:
While asking more generally about what could be wrong with a fridge in general based on the potential cause and symptoms to keep the answer relevant for others, this is in regards to a 2013 GE Cafe model CFCP1RKBDSS if that matters.
The fridge has been working normally for 7 years. Power has gone out a handful of times each year, never caused an issue. We had to turn off the power to the house at the circuit breaker yesterday for a moment. The next morning noticed the refridgerator temperature was very warm. Rather than 0/37 was 42/52 or so and seems to be getting warmer. Everything turns on normally, and can feel cool air blowing but I I assume it's blowing either less powerfully or less cold than normal. Also cold air blowing out the back bottom vent.
Because of the pandemic called 5 local repair shops and all our booked for weeks, and once we get an appointment it could be weeks or longer to get a part presumably. Even buying a new fridge it appears most all the similar fridges are back ordered for months. So hoping to get at least an educated guess on what the issue may be, so we can determine a very rough estimate on if it would potentially be a small part or a major part.


texts: fissures in joist: natural or insect damge

texts:
I have noticed that one of the joists in our crawl space has a small crack in it, and near to it are some small (1-2 inch long) fissures. I didn't notice it at the time, but in the photos (see below) the small fissures appear to have some yellowish liquid inside.

I would like to know if this is a natural feature, or a sign of insect damage. I couldn't see any other signs of termite damage (e.g. mud tubes) and the rest of the  joist looks fine. I tried to stick a screwdriver into the joist but it seems to be solid on both sides, and the bottom, near to these features.

I would be grateful for any suggestions on what this might be.

Many thanks.


texts: HardiePlank Lap Siding and Trim Questions

texts:
I’m looking at doing my first project with HardiePlank Lap Siding and Trim on my house.  I’ve read the technical documentation and overall it looks like it pretty strait forward to install.  This project is a partial remodel of an American Foursquare in a historical district. I’m trying to match an existing trim details on the house as much as possible to avoid issues with the review board and I would like it blend as well as possible.

Existing door/window trim (aluminum) features a 45-degree cut between the top and side trims.  Does HardieTrim support being cut in such a fashion?
Existing window trim features a 2” thick sill, but it appears your max thickness is 1”.  Any suggestions to achieve this thickness with the Hardie product or should I plan to modify the style with a 1" sill?
Unrelated to the trim, a side of the house that is getting Hardie Plank has a deck fence/railing next to the wall.  If I understand the technical materials, this post needs to be at least 2” from the material to prevent drying issues?

Thanks,
Mike


texts: Poured shower bed mortar around drain and sloped it properly. Drain is type that screws into base. The face of the drain is square. Now that the mortar is dry and I am ready to tile the shower floor I noticed that there is some play in the drain. It moves a little bit. Is this a big deal?


texts: What sealant should I buy to secure cable in brick?

texts:
I have an ethernet cable that goes into house from the outside wall.

What sealant should I look for that will not crack the cable?

I need to keep wind and rain out of the house from the hole.

It has to be compatible with plastic.


texts: What kind of drill bit would I use to grind down the end of a protruding screw?

texts:
Let's say I have a 1"-thick piece of wood.  A 1 1/4" screw is driven through the wood, resulting in 1/4" of the screw protruding out the other side.  What type of drill bit would I use to grind that tip down just beneath the surface, leaving a dimple just the right depth to be filled in with wood putty?

I do not want to extract the screw.  I want to grind it.  It would be a wood screw, not something as brittle as a drywall screw.

Edit:  I called Home Depot and they suggested that I use my oscilating tool to cut off the tip and then use a regular drill bit to grind it beneath the surface.  This makes sense.  Should I go that route?


texts: What is a safe way to ground this light fixture?

texts:
We are putting in a new mirror and light fixture. Unfortunately the electrical box is not centred with the vanity. I am going to drill a hole in the metal backing for the light fixture (see pictures) to put the wires through, but i'm not sure about what is a safe way to ground it.
The guy installing the mirror will then fix the fixture's backing onto the the mirror.

can I make a new hole for the green ground screw closer to where im cutting the larger hole for the wires to go through?

alternatively can I use a twist wire cap to connect both grounds together, then loop a section of the newly connected one to the ground? (the ground coming out of the wall isn't long enough to reach the current ground screw once repositioned)

Sorry if it's obvious, just want to make sure I do it safely
thanks for the help!
Update:
Thanks everyone for the replies, they were all helpful and appreciated.
I installed it yesterday and it worked out great, thanks! I've added a picture with the final product.


texts: Electricity passes through a bulb holder, even when the switch is off

texts:
In my home, electricity passes through a bulb holder even when the switch is off. I heard that happens due to 3-way switches. Could anybody tell me if it is okay or worth worrying?

Update

Let me explain it in detailed:

I use that holder for LED bulb which glows (no issue with plastic frame of the holder) even when the switch is off so I ran the following tests by taking out the bulb.

1) Normal Line Tester - When I test with line tester, one of the two pins, i.e., line pin indicates that the electricity passes through it slightly when switched off.

2) Digital Teser - Digital tester indicates as following:

Line test - 12v 36v 55v 110v
Inductance break point test - 12v 36v

Here is the screenshot of the switch:

One of them located at the beginning of staircase (in the main hall) and another at the end of the staircase on the first floor's hall. It's a duplex building.


texts: Hi Is it a problem to have a number of 20amp receptacles on a 20amp circuit-breaker like a number of 15amp receptacles on a 20amp circuit? Or should a 20amp circuit have only one 20amp receptacle? I have read numerous electrical books looking for this answer and not see it [if it is there] Thanks for your help. Frank


texts:
I live off grid (limited solar) and am trying to hook up two generators through a Kohler ATS (RXT).

My goal is to use the smaller (8kw) gasoline powered generator on the "utility" side and the larger (20kw) propane generator (Kohler 20RESCL) on the "emergency" side. (all voltage 240v)

I need to do this because I have a finite amount of propane to get me through the winter and there is no delivery (refill) in the winter months to my location.

My thought is with the smaller unit running, the switch would sense this as normal (utility) power, but when I switch it off, the switch would automaticallty sense the loss of power and switch to the backup position.  This is where it gets interesting.  I do not want to use the auto start functionality of the ATS as I have a relay in place with my inverter (Outback) so the larger unit will start or stop based on preset voltages.  This along with using the smaller unit should get me through the season with my propane.

I'm working with an electrician on this be he seems to be having difficulty figuring out how to hook these up to funtion the way I want and need.

Am I missing something in the theory of how an ATS works?  Does the Kohler RXT ATS not allow this basic functionality?  Do I need a different ATS, if so, suggestions?

As a final note, I've had some issues already with the Kohler (larger) generator so have purchased a separate Generac (7034) designed for off grid use as a backup.

Edit: to clarify this a bit, I'm looking to have the two generators operate through the ATS to supply power to charge the batteries on my Outback system (FX2024T inverters). The output of the Outback system will go directly to the service panel, not through the ATS. To conserve propane, I'm looking to use the gasoline (smaller) generator primarily during the day (manual start/stop) and the larger unit during overnight hours to automatically start/stop the generator (via the inverter) to keep the batteries charged. By my understanding, I should be able to use the ATS at its most basic level (utility or backup power routing only) based on power supplied to the appropriate lugs. Am I incorrect in this understanding? In following up on the statement/question from KH, your statement about sensing the return of power is exactly what I'm looking for. When I turn on the smaller generator (connected to the utility side) the switch should automatically flip to that position from the emergency side. When I switch off the smaller generator, the switch will automatically flip to the emergency side, but not start the generator as this is controlled once the voltage has dropped to a pre-determined level via the inverter start/stop function. At no point would both generators be in operation at the same, but, even if they were, the switch would automatically be to the utility side as that's the default when power utility power is sensed. I hope this helps. Dan


texts: What is this soft plastic like material that has been added to the window, and how best to remove it?

texts:
The previous owner added this soft, plastic like material to the window frame and I'd like to remove it. I can get parts off with a knife, and when I do it is flexible and soft.

I believe this is probably a common material, but I'm struggling to identify it. What is it? And how best would you go about moving it from the window?


texts: Is digging with a shovel near gas lines dangerous?

texts: I live in an area where 99% of homes have gas lines, but mine does not. I called 811 and the gas company showed up, but said since I have no gas service, no pipes run under my property. When the electrical company showed up, they said it is very unlikely there are no gas pipes, and seemed suspicious the gas company was diligent in marking the area. I'll only be using a hand shovel to dig. Are gas pipes made of a material that can be broken with a hand shovel?


texts: How well does AA-8000 alloy resist pitting corrosion?

texts:
Aluminum corrosion in salty environments often takes the form of a surface pitting -- while this does little to damage the structural value of the aluminium, it can be an issue for mating contexts.  Some aluminum alloys, such as the 6000 series, resist pitting well, and are used in applications such as boats as a result; others, such as aircraft-grade 7000 series alloys, resist pitting poorly and need corrosion protection help when deployed in applications where pitting corrosion is a factor.

How well do the 8000 series alloys used for modern aluminum electrical components (i.e. wiring, cable armor, and I presume busbars and such as well) fare in their resistance to pitting corrosion?


texts: What kind of sand and gravel for artificial grass

texts:
I'm trying to buy some gravel and sand for the base and infill of artificial grass from home depot but am confused by the variety and types of sand and gravel.
Is just a general-purpose sand and gravel bag from sacrete good enough?  I tried searching for silica sand in home depot but nothing came up.


texts: Do I need to glue down linoleum flooring?

texts:
I am installing a new linoleum floor in a small bathroom (approx. 6' X 6').  This is a replacement for an old linoleum floor.  The replacement will be a single piece.

Talking with the local big box store flooring expert, he recommended not gluing it down.

It would be tempting to not glue it down since the linoleum floor will be a single piece and will be held down on all sides.  But while I would love to make things easier for myself and not use glue, I am not so sure this is a good idea.

Would it be a bad idea to not glue down the linoleum floor?


texts: Can I use the CAT3 cable in my home for internet?

texts:
I have FiOS internet (200 Mbps up/down service), via an Ethernet cable entering my house from one of their ONT boxes outside. I would love to have it available at each of the wall plates in my house. When the Verizon tech did the install, he looked behind one of the wall plates and said "your house is wired for CAT5 but I don't know where the access point is," and just plugged the cable into a router in the back of the house.
I've since done some investigating, checking behind each wall plate. First, I think he's wrong about the CAT5: every non-coax cable is stamped CAT3, though some have 2 pairs of wires and some have 4 pairs. Second, I also can't find non-coax splitters in any obvious locations, including behind the wall plates, in the outlet boxes. Here's what's behind each wall plate:

Basement: Two 2-pair CAT3, two coax connected to a 2-way splitter
Living room: One 2-pair CAT3, one 4-pair CAT3, two coax (the previous homeowner had a router that was previously connected to one of these coax cables). Pictured, in case helpful:
Bedroom 1: Two 4-pair CAT3, two coax
Bedroom 2: One 4-pair CAT3, one coax

So my questions are:

Can I use these cables for internet?
If so, how would I hook it up? Where is the splitter?

It would be great to have the outlets providing internet, though I gather that CAT3 is slow. A reduction in speed wouldn't be terrible, if it's more reliable than getting wireless across the house, and has low latency for video conferencing.
Thanks!
UPDATE
Wow, this generated a surprising amount of interest, and some very helpful info. I took a little bit from column A, and a little bit from column B.
I got a cheap tone and probe kit to confirm that the coax and CAT3 daisy-chained through the whole house. And I'm using two MoCA bridges to convert the FiOS signal from Ethernet to coax, snaking through the house and converting back into a wi-fi router. Ethernet out from the router goes back into the wall, traveling upstairs via a short run of CAT3 in the wall. From my office upstairs, if I plug my computer into the wall jack, I get 100 Mbps up/down with 7 ms latency, which is exactly what I got from plugging my computer directly into the FiOS ONT.
I now get great speeds when plugged in, and feel good knowing that I'm taking advantage of the wiring in the house. (Most of it anyway—I am cutting the daisy chain short by one link.) Also, the wi-fi router is much more centrally positioned, so I get better wireless speeds too.
Thanks for the suggestions to use MoCA, and also to give the CAT3 a shot—it seems to be working great so far.
Here's how everything's hooked up:


texts: Properly fill small sinkhole near meter vault

texts:
I've got a very small sinkhole that has developed between my driveway and my water meter vault/box. The hole is about 20 inches deep and has actually eroded the soil deep enough that it goes underneath the side of the meter box.

I'd like to fill it back in, but want to be careful that the fix is relatively permanent and not papering over some deeper issue, or risk having the hole spread under the driveway pad and having that sink, or under the meter and having the service line flex and start leaking.

The hole and the meter vault are both dry, so I don't suspect a leak from the service line or on the house side. Water bills are normal.

I'm thinking that water runs off the driveway through the score line, soaks in here since it can run into the pit made by the drain vault, and carries away soil as it does so. To fix it, I plan to fill the void with drainage rock and then cover it with permeable fabric and new sod. My thinking is that this will let the water flow across the rock and soak into the utility pit (it's not pooling during storms, so it appears to be low enough volume that it's absorbed and isn't filling up the utility box) without carrying away soil.

Is this likely to cause future problems, like the service line sinking and leaking? If so, what is the right fix? Should this utility box go deeper into the ground?

Additional info, in case it helps: there's a sprinkler system in the yard, but doesn't have any lines that run through here. I also never use it, so it's not like it's adding a lot of water to the yard that is contributing to the problem.


texts: Gosund dimmer connects but light fixture not being powered

texts: I installed a Gosund dimmer today and while the connections seem to be correct, the lights are not being powered on, so power to the fixture is not occurring. The dimmer turns on and connects to the app (is also recognized) but again, my power source isn't working. I don't have a voltage meter but am sure the black is live and white is neutral as that was how it was installed before I put this dimmer in (The red was wrapped around the joint wiring in the box). Also, I switched out the lights to be "dimmer lightbulbs" on the fixture. What am I doing wrong?


texts: Is a Heat pump / AC unit considered more or less effecient in hot states?

texts:
Just learned a house we purchased has a heat pump vs a traditional heater. The heat pump / AC unit configuration outside, blower inside.

We live in the phoenix AZ area, and an efficient AC unit is critical. AC works pretty well, heat pump works fine too. But is this combined unit more or less efficient than a traditional AC unit and seperate electric heater?


texts: Is carpet installation easier before or after installation of doors?

texts: I was wondering if carpet installation is easier if doors are not installed and how substantial the difference it makes to install doors after carpet.  I would imagine it would be easier but by how much?


texts: What wire should I use for a sauna 100' away from the panel?

texts:
I need to run a 220 line about 100ft from my breaker box to where the sauna be located.

The manual says for an 8 kw heater, 8-2 w/ground copper; 40 amp non GFCI breaker
But it also  says for distances “up” to 30 ft.....

So what if it’s 100?


texts: Is grout required behind shower knob trim plate?

texts:
Moved into a newly built home recently. I went to change out the walk-in shower faucet and discovered that the tile contractor had omitted the grout behind the shower knob trim piece. They left 2 spacers in place as well. The cement behind the grout-less tiles seems normal from the little I can see. But there's no grout for about 8 linear inches of tile.

The trim plate was held on by two screws into the valve assembly. You can see they sealed around the trim piece with a very thin bit of caulk; there was also a sizable amount of grout piled up on the trim plate where it crossed the grout lines.

My question is, how bad is this? Can I reseat or replace the trim plate with a same-or-larger size, re-caulk the edge and be safe from leakage? Or is this a don't-use-the-shower-until-fixed situation?

We do have a warranty process with the builder, but due to other recent experience, I'm expecting it to take over a month unless I raise an unholy stink, so I'm wanting a lead on the urgency before I contact them.


texts: Can I share the neutral in 12/3 cable between two GFI circuits with different current ratings?

texts:
I think I know the answer to this question however I have been known to be wrong before!

I am using GFI breakers to protect multi outlet circuits. One is 15 amp and the other is 20 amp. I realized that while I am running 12/3 using the black for the 15 amp circuit and the red for the 20 amp circuit will work I only have one white.

Question is: Can you use the neutral for both GFI's or do you have to provide a separate neutral for both circuits?


texts: The plumbing under my kitchen sink looks discolored and there is a black mark. I don't see any water leaking though.


texts: Why won't one of my gas stove's burners ignite?

texts:
I have zero experience working on stoves. We have a 3-year-old Whirpool and the right-front burner won't ignite properly.

When I turn the dial for that burner it sparks one or two times and then stops - the burner doesn't light.

If I turn that burner's dial so gas starts and then turn one of the other three burner's dials, the front-right burner lights. [I learned that this works because whenever one igniter sparks, they all spark]

I've watched several videos but I can't determine if I need to replace the spark electrode or the igniter wiring harness. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


texts: We have restained our table and have put the first coat of Helmsman on it and I have lightly sanded to get ready for the second coat.However, we dipped one of the staining pads into the can and the varnish and the stain have now mixed. I have tried to filter the varnish but it is now the stained color. Is the rest of the varnish still good to use or will it cause bubbles, etc.?


texts: how do you remove a stripped screw that holds the handle on outdoor faucet

texts:
I am trying to replace washers on an outdoor faucet but the screw holding the handle on is stripped.

Also apparently stucco is all holding the PVC pipe to the faucet on the wall.

How do I tighten that up? Is there some sort of cement I can use?


texts: Do dishwashers with a built in "high loop" require a second high loop under the sink?

texts:
A "high loop" in the drain line of a dishwasher is one method of preventing backflow of fluid to the dishwasher. In the past I think this had to be created manually when the drain line was installed under the sink.

But now it seems that most modern dishwashers now come with a loop of this type pre-installed on the side of the unit. In those cases, is it still a necessity to create your own loop under the sink?

Installer-created high loop:

Built in high loop:

Thanks


texts: Anyone know how to get a super old wall plug out? My husband and I are redoing our house we just bought and have multiple all over our bathroom. The house was built in 1958 so I don’t know if that makes a difference in what kind of wall plugs were used. I looked up how to do it. Did it the way it shows (by screwing in a screw and grabbing it with pliers to pull out) and it took a huge chunk of the wall with it because it has a really big metal back behind the wall. I tried to add a picture but it’s not allowing me to.


texts: Is it okay to face nail the drip edge to the fascia?

texts:
A sunroom contractor is adding a screened in deck to my house.  The drip edge was not delivered before the roofer installed the roof and he said that the drip edge could be installed later by lifting up the shingles and nailing.  When the drip edge arrived, they did not lift the shingles.  They nailed the drip edge to the fascia using aluminum siding nails.
Is this okay?  On one hand, I can see how water could get through the nail holes; but on the other, there are already similar holes present for the aluminum siding wrap on other fascia on the home.


texts: Frigidaire FEX831FS4 transmission leaked oil. Should I refill? With what?

texts:
While rebuilding the Frigidaire FEX831FS4 washer's transmission, I did not remake the gasket between both transmission halves. So, for the next few days there was a little bit of oil splattering going on (i kinda wiped the front panel, but it shows how situation looked like).

My questions are:

Should I bother with refilling transmission with oil? Maybe not worth since the splattering has stopped. But then again I don't know if it is running empty.
If yes, then what oil should I use? 1qt of known right oil costs $94.14 That is way too much I am willing to invest in this old washer. What other oil would work here?
In case I don't refill with oil, do I understand correctly that the worst case scenario here is that transmission would break and seize; And either belt would snap or come of pulley? Opposed to stalling motor, overheating it and possibly starting fire?


texts: How smooth should I expect final finish to be on an new hardwood floor install?

texts: I had an existing hardwood floor in one part of the first floor connected to new wood in the rest of the first floor. The contractor has done a great job of splicing in so there is no gap. What I'm wondering is how smooth should I expect the final finish to be? After three finish coats, there are still some bumps in the finish. It is all over, not just these three images


texts: How to stabilize decomposed granite after installation

texts:
We had a professional landscaping company install decomposed granite in our front and back yard. They were supposed to use decomposed granite with a stabilizer but instead used a weed sprayer to lightly dust the surface with a liquid stabilizer after installation. Needless to say when it rains the decomposed granite is washed away...

My question is as follows:

Can I stabilize the decomposed granite without having to loosen it all up and re-compacting it?
How important is it to do the leveling, compacting and stabilizing at the same time? I.e., is it necessary to compact the decomposed granite for the binding/stabilizing agent to work properly?


texts: Removed two single pole switches in an attempt to wire a smart switch, forgot how to wire back

texts:
I had two single pole switches that were working fine before I attempted to change one to a smart light switch (right switch that controls the two outside light fixtures).

I forgot to take a photo before of the wiring, but now I can't get them to work and control the two recessed lights above (left switch) and the two outside light fixtures I mentioned above (right switch). So here I am.

I just can't find the combo the wires were before. I've included a drawing of the wires I have, also two photos of what is inside the box. There are three sets of wires. As I mentioned, the right switch used to turn two outside fixtures on, and the left switch used to turn on two recessed lights above.

One thing I do remember is the red wire was not used at all. And, I think there was a pigtail or connection splitting one of the hot wires. I have just recently realized that I have another hot wire that is white (which I thought were all neural). I had tried keeping all the grounds together, all of what I thought was neutral (white) wires together, and split the black hot wire to both switches. While using the grey on the left switch and the black on the right to connect the switches. That did not work. I tried a few other combinations. No luck. I'll buy you a beer if you can help me. This is annoying me so much. All the switches check out on my multimeter. Thank you for reading.

I have been reading that the fixtures could be receiving power directly from my box and then have lines to my house to add switches, versus the lines coming into the house and then hooked up the switches and ran back to the fixtures. I'm just stumped after trying what feels like every combo.


texts: Why will my toilet not flush after it rains or when ground is wet

texts: I live in a house with a septic system.  When the winter/spring rains come, the toilet on the ground level master bedroom does not flush.  We have another toilet on the ground floor that does flush.  We have removed the non-flushing toilet, snaked the line and even installed a newer toilet.  Nothing works until the ground dries out and then it will work fine.  We had the septic tank pumped out, though it does tend to fill with ground water.  What I don't understand is why will the one toilet work when the other will not?  Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?


texts: How can you stop dual pocket doors so they close in the center and do not come off the track

texts: New pocket doors installed, but if you close the doors and maybe one is beyond the center, it comes off the track. What can be done to stop the doors in the center?


texts: What do-it-yourself cautionary tales do you have?

texts:
I'm curious what sort of cautionary tales everyone has come across (or experienced themselves).

For instance, my dad used to work on live wires all the time — until he was putting a stove in (220V if you don't know) and touched two wires together. The spark flew off and hit his glasses and melted about halfway through the lens. He still works on live 110V, but he always turns off the 220 circuit now.

What about you? Any (hopefully just-as-happy) shocking experiences you folks have had?


texts: How should I install slab doors when the jamb has been drywalled over?

texts:
All of my bedrooms have 36" cupboards with bi-fold doors that I want to replace with two 18" double-doors.  All of the door jambs are covered in 1/2" drywall.  I've made a few test holes and there seems to be solid wood behind it, but I don't know if this is just some 2x4's or if it is a solid piece more appropriate to be exposed as a jamb.

I will be installing trim around the door once complete. The depth of the current frame (drywall to drywall) is  5 7/8".

Buying two 18"x80" doors is preferred since they are cheap and available at my local home improvement store but I am willing to compromise.

I'm looking for what is the best way to prepare this frame in order to hang doors.  My first instinct is that I need to remove the drywall so that I can properly mount and mortise the hinges, but I'm not sure...  Things I have considered:

1) Removing the drywall, finding lumber that has a nominal thickness of 1/2" and having it ripped to 5 7/8" and installing it as a jamb on each side. I don't have a table saw (yet) so this this either means careful work with a circular saw or paying a store to do it..

2) Installing the same type of wood as above on top of the drywall and buying custom sized doors

3) Taking the really lazy way out - use non-mortise hinges right on the drywall. I know I'll regret this.

Am I missing something obvious or easier?


texts: Should I relocate the HVAC unit in my attic?

texts:
I have had a couple of estimates to replace our HVAC system and one contractor says he would relocate the system to a more central location in the attic. One says there is no need to relocate. There is an additional cost to this relocation, of course. The unit is set on one side of the house in the attic.

Any thoughts on what I should ask and if this is necessary?


texts:
I'm trying to add a shower option to this bathtub. I'm a very new home owner and don't even know if this is a good idea. The challenges I'm having are:

Connecting a hand held shower head to the existing faucet and attaching a mount to the ceiling. A picture of the size and thread of the faucet aerator is below.
Attaching a curtain rod that would surround the shower area. The dimensions of the entire tub area (wall to wall, and wall to edge) are 76x39 in. The tub itself and the ideal area enclosed by curtains is 54x35 in. I can't seem to find a D shaped curtain rod with those dimensions.
Determining if the ceiling will be resistant enough to the moisture. It has two fresh coats of semi-gloss paint, but is only ~5 inches above the users head. You can see an opening where a venting fan and lightbulb are. It has a clear plastic cover that was removed for the picture. It allows air in from the sides so I can't see water bouncing in there, but I'm worried about the ceiling water resistance.

What thread is that and where can I find shower hoses that will attach?
What are my best options for fitting the 54x35 in. dimensions for a surrounding shower curtain.
Is the ceiling going to have water problems? If so what can I do about it?
Are there other problems I'm not seeing?


texts: Is it acceptable to paint kitchen walls in alkyd?

texts: The kitchen has very little revealed wall space, and we were wondering if it is ok to use alkyd paint on the walls (to keep it simple). It would be the same white paint as used on the cabinets.


texts: Anybody have experience in hanging a huge clock?

texts: I need help with hanging this giant clock on the wall. Its huge and heavy. I believe its 4-5' in diameter and it weighs about 160 pounds. I figured building some sort of brace for it would be best as I'd like to be able to hit every stud possible. Anybody have any experience with this or know of any pre-made mounts that would work for it? I've thought about getting a heavy duty tv mount but I'm not sure. Any help would be great, thanks]1


texts: How can one detect how many coats of paint are used in a newly built house .

texts: I just bought a new house and moved furniture in. I noticed that the paint is really thin because it bruises easily, i.e., I cd see the cement behind it when I accidentally peeled off the sticker glue from  the wall. The builder said in the contract it is 2 coats of paint. Should there also be an oil sealer before the paint is applied?


texts: Just took a closer look at the ridge of my roof and noticed that the angle between the ridge and virtually all the rafters is quite sloppy. Is that a problem is that the way these joints are supposed to look?


texts: How do I recognize which socket cover (fused or 3-pin) connects to which outlet?

texts:
I have two power outlets in this room, one is a normal 3-pin (UK) plate cover and the other is a fused (switched) plate cover (much like the one below).

I've know removed them and wish to put them back, but unfortunately I do not remember which one goes where. The outlets both have the same wires coming out (one live, one neutral and one earth).

Is there a way to tell them apart? Are they actually the same thing and I can swap them over?


texts: Does it matter if my newly installed GFCI reads "open ground"?

texts: I just replaced a few two-prong outlets with GFCI outlets so we can plug in things built this millennium. Two of the outlets read "correct" on my circuit tester, but one reads "open ground." None of the outlets are grounded, so I don't know why this one would read differently. Anyway, does this matter? Should I bother to do something to fix it?


texts: Whats the cheapest but strongest 4x8 I can use while only supporting the ends lengthwise of the board?

texts:
What I'm trying to do is basically make a shelf that is somewhat of a 2nd story in my rented self storage unit. I've done this before by bridging tall furniture w/strong boards. My unit is 12'x19'. I wanted to put a shelf (6ft tall metal restaurant or gondola shelving) on side of each storage in back against the wall & bridge them with something strong enough that I don't need to support the middle, should I need to park my car in there. I believe 4x8 is the largest piece you can get locally cheap. I hate any kind of pressed or particle board, because of how it falls apart the 1st time its moved or gets wet. I know there's an array of 4x8 made up of all types of materials I know nothing about and while researching them, I came across this website. What would be the strongest but cheapest 4x8 including what width I could get for this?  it would probally have a couple hundred pounds at very most, but also hold me (140#) up there organizing or walking to other side.
If anyone has any other ideas that are cheap/free, quick/simple& sturdy Im totally open to them. I thought a few  2x4s 10-12ft in length w/several cheap "shelving" boards perpendicular; possibly somn similar w/metal? i have drill & driver, but Im trying to keep it cheap and simple
thanks for taking the time to read this & offer me any suggestions.


texts: How can I figure out which valves should be open?

texts: Just had my DE filter replaced with a cartridge filter.  The pipes going to the motor have three valves.  Since the replacement I am losing water and can't remember which of the valves should be open and which should be closed.  I believe one is for the vacuum system which I don't need, one is for the skimmer, and one for the main drain (can't remember which is which though).  The two valves on the right regulate whether I am using the returns or the in-ground cleaning system. I have no problem with that.


texts: How can I soundproof a hatch door in the floor?

texts:
Wooden hatch door, it's about 1.5" thick plywood but quite loud below when people walk over it, despite having carpet on top.

It closes against a metal jam so I was thinking of putting some dense foam on the jam so the door would give a little. It could however be a bit weird for those walking over it however (usually paying guests staying for a few days max).

I was thinking the egg-crate foam is more designed to stop sound hitting the crate side, so whereas that would be good so they don't get noise from us, the main problem is the drumming of this door.

Any easy solution other than replacing the door with something more rigid?


texts: Water is coming out of our what I assume is a stink pipe. We live within city limits. This is located in our basement. City says we have no exterior clean out. We plan on calling to have this pipe snaked out and hope that is the issue. Any suggestions what else it could be?


texts:
The shower tap I’m looking at is a two control one: one for hot/cold and one for pressure/tub/shower.

The hot/cold works fine, but the other one is not gripping correctly. The only way the current handle hub sticks to the shaft is via the pointed end of the handle as it’s screwed into the hub.

This used to work, except now the pointed end of the handle has scored the brass of the shaft all the way around and so it can’t grip any more.

The picture shows the removed silver colored cover and the hole where the handle goes in. Below that is the brass on the shaft where the cover is supposed to go.

The brass fitting in the shaft has a tongue on it which I think should slot into the handle somewhere, but there is no place on the handle I have where it could fit.

What am I missing?


texts: replace old furnace blower motor with a new one but the wires are different

texts:
It is an old Rheem RGAA-100C furnace, On the old motor the wires was: White, Brown, Red, Black and Blue. On the new Motor it has Brown, Brown/White, Black, Red, White, and Blue. I don't know how to wire it back. They do not make the old motor anymore, this motor was the replacement. Could you please help.

On the circuit diagram on the motor says:

Br/Wh to Cap.
Br to Cap.
Wh to Line.
[Blk (Hi) or Blue (Med) or Red (Low)] to Line.