texts:
Novice here. I'm trying to install a swing arm lamp in the corner of two walls, one of which is an exterior wall. The magnetic stud finder I have indicated that there's a stud on the interior side of corner only.

The two screws (and anchors) that came with the lamp are 1.5" long and 1/4" in diameter. When I drilled into the wall, though, I made it 0.5" into the wall before the drill stopped. I can't see anything beyond the drywall.

I'm wondering if it's a protective plate (although there aren't really and outlets nearby or if I just have metal studs (it is a new apartment building). Is there anyway to tell?


texts: Why is my 12VDC LED flood light flashing when powered by a LED magnetic driver?

texts:
I just bought a new outdoor LED Flood lights which i plan to use on a field. However, when connected to a power source, the lights keep flashing and has a humming noise.
The flood lights are 12vdc @ 13A and In order to power the flood lights, i bought an LED magnetic driver (200watts, 12v).
what can i do to prevent the flashing and be able to utilize the flood lights?


texts: How can I install a sink/dishwasher in basement?

texts:
I am looking to finish my basement and as part of the renovation, I'd like to install a bar complete with a sink and dishwasher (and beer taps of course).   Attached (once I get enough rep) is a diagram of what I am working with.  From what I know, there are 3 options for installing the sink

Regular ol' gravity, 1/4" drop per foot of run
Trenching out a line to the drain
Pumping the waste up

I'm pretty much going to say that I don't want to do number 2.  #3 is the option of last resort as I don't want to listen to the thing running every time I turn on a faucet for the sink or run the dishwasher.  That leaves me with option one.

As you can see from the diagram, there's a 3" PVC drain pipe that currently runs in the ceiling and out down the far wall.  There are water lines that run parallel to this drain line. The two circles on the diagram are current PVC pipes sticking out of the ground along the foundation wall (put in the room for clarity).  The one on the top is labeled 2" and the one on the bottom of the diagram is 3".  The drain line in the ceiling connects to the one on the bottom.  [There's also a sump pump in the ground behind the door on the bottom that's not on the diagram if that matters any]

Racking my brain, the 3 options that I see are

Get rid of the bottom door and run along the walls to the drain. Depending on where the sink and d/w are, that's a run of about 36.5'~ 43.75' which would require a drop of about 9~11".  That doesn't seem like very much
Run it up along the stairs and over to the 2" pipe.  That's a shorter run, but it'd require me to build a wall across and chop up the storage area.
Bite the bullet and do option 3.  I could pump it up into the 3" pipe that's already in the ceiling.
Other??

I guess my questions are

What is all needed to install the sink and/or dishwasher?  Do I only need to bring in water and dump waste?  What about venting?
I've read that the 1/4" rule is based on the P-trap to where you tie in.  What part of the P-trap do you measure from?  How low can you tie into an existing pipe?
Can I tie into those existing pipes or is there some gotcha that I don't know about?
If I have to go with option #3, is it a device that is above ground (no foundation digging) and can I place it away from the back of the sink wall to make it quieter?


texts:
I have a Toro self propelled lawn mower that I am getting ready to put away for the season.  The manual says to run it until empty then put some oil in the spark plug chamber.  I read an article that states you should not drain the but instead fill up with fresh fuel that has stabilizer added.  Thoughts or recommendations?

http://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/lawn-mower-storage-why-draining-fuel-tank-mistake


texts: Is there is a Standard on how much main service panel / main circuit breaker amps should be?

texts:
Is there is a standard how much main service panel / main circuit breaker should be rated for?

Below example.

Here's current line up of my electric loads:

Electric Range - 50 amps
Electric Vehicle level 2 charger - 50 amps
Dryer - 30+20 amps (4 spaces breaker, 2 phases)
Air conditioner - 40+15 amps (4 spaces breaker, 2 phases)

These four main loads add up to 205 amps !

There are additional circuit breakers (10 of them):

15 amps circuit breakers - seven circuit breakers:

Furnace, refrigerator
Bed 3
Family room, basement
House gfi, loft
Up hall, garage
Master bed+ bath
Bed 2 + living room

20 amps breakers - three circuit breakers:

Kitchen + washer
Kitchen plugs, disposal
Dining room +   dishwasher

Is there is a standard how much main service panel / main circuit breaker should be rated for? I will be adding EV Level 2 charger (50 amps breaker). Currently have 150 amps main circuit breakers, but I feel it should be at 200amps there. This topic was starter primarily to understand if I have to increase main circuit breaker to 200amps with the additional EV charger.

Thanks.


texts: Electrical Outlets not working after pressure-washing the house

texts:
I just had my house pressure washed and my power to my bathroom does not work. The breaker for my bathroom/outside receptacle did not trip.  I replaced the outside outlet and the electric still didn't work.

I believe the gfci in the main bathroom tripped, but I couldn't reset it because whoever painted my house painted over the electrical covers. So, I replaced 2 switches and 2 outlets in the main bathroom.  Turned the power back on and by golly it reset. There was a dim light from the led light bulb and the lights were lit on the switches I bought. However, when I went to flip the switch to turn on the light it didn't turn on.

I tried to look online and I remembered something about the tab on the outlets and when I replaced the outlets in other rooms I broke the bridge on the hot side. So, I did that in my bathroom outlets and when I turned the power back on I had no dim light or the lights on my switches.

I'm so close, what did I do wrong?


texts: What is the best way to build up attic framing?

texts:
I need to build up my attic framing for three reasons, but first, I can think of two ways in which to do this.

The Methods

Method 1

Put new framing on top of the original framing along the existing joists.

I would be stacking the new joists directly on top of the old joists. In theory, this should make them similar to 2x8s (I know this isn't quite true, and I have the beam theory to prove it).

Method 2

Put new framing on top of the original framing against the existing joists.

I would be stacking the new joists across the tops of the old joists. In theory, I've made a lattice structure of sorts.

The Uses

Insulation

I am going to lay 2x4 fiberglass insulation in the original joist bays, but that only gets me ~R-13, and the guideline for my region is >R-30. Blown-in is not an option I am considering, by the way. I've heard that laying rolls/batts perpendicular to each other when stacking them is the appropriate method, so method 2 seems to make sense for this application.

Flooring

Right now, when I need to do work in my attic I need to tiptoe along the tops of the joists. There is no flooring of any kind. I want to fix that situation by laying down some OSB (in some places, at least). I don't think the method I use will affect this, but there is one double-wide joist bay (there's a wall under it but no joist) so I need to add some perpendicular reinforcement there anyway, so method 2 seems to make sense again.

Reinforcement

I am adding some cabinets that need to hang from the ceiling as sit quite far from any walls. I expect the cabinets and contents to weigh ~400lbs, and I don't doubt the existing joists could take the load (they have a 160" span), but I'd rather reinforce the framing. I had considered sistering joists where the cabinets would be mounted (method 0, not shown), but I think methods 1 and 2 effectively supersede sistering. Method 1 will increase the effective joist stiffness and strength while method 2 will distribute the load across multiple joists. I'm not sure which is better in this case.


texts: How do I crimp an F-connector onto RG-6 cable?

texts:
My current home project is putting RG-6 in the walls instead of through the cold-air returns and across the carpet between rooms. Thanks to some forethought during previous remodeling projects, laying the cable and getting it in the walls is the easy part.

Right now, I am stuck on crimping the stuff.

I bought a crimper, a 50 pack of F-connectors, and a 500' box of quad-shield RG-6. No matter what I do, the connectors slide off the end after crimping. I followed the instructions that came with the crimper, googled, watched some youtube videos, but nothing seems to work.

What I do is strip off 1/4 inch around the inner connector, then an additional 1/4 inch of the outer sheath. Inside there is foil and what I can best describe as tinsel. I fold this back, leaving the inner layer of foil on the plastic insulation. I then push on the F connector, using my channel-lock to grip it while pushing.

The problem is that it appears not to slide all the way on. The connector has two circular parts, and it looks like the inner one is supposed to go between two layers of the cable. However, it barely goes in and it starts pushing and distorting the outer layer before it just won't go anymore.

If I crimp it at this point, it doesn't have anything to hold on to and it slides right off. I can also see some of the foil and metal sticking out from underneath the connector, leading me to believe it is not on all the way.

What am I doing wrong?

Edit: the issue was I was using dual-shield connectors with quad-shield cable. At first I thought they would work with both, but I checked the package again and I was wrong. However, I chose to pick the answer to use compression connectors since I went that route and it really was a lot easier with better results.

Edit: here is what I bought. I'm planning on buying compression tools and trying that instead.

Crimper

F-connectors

Cable


texts: Changing Stair Rise After Landing Replacement

texts: We recently replaced our upstairs flooring from carpet to hardwood floors. After leveling the upstairs floor and installing the new flooring, the upstairs landing is now 1 3/8" higher leaving a noticeable step down when going from the landing to the first stair down. Due to having smaller children, we prefer to keep the stairs carpeted for now. Recognizing there are code requirements for stair rise and runs (we live in Washington, US), is there a conventional way to adjust stair rises as needed to stay safe and stay within code? The last thing we want is someone taking a big step down and falling down the stairs.


texts:
A number of years ago I had our electrician change all of our quick wired/back stabbed outlets in our new home to the screw terminals for better and safer connections.
Recently I discovered he didn’t bother to remove them completely but rather cut them as close to the openings in the back as possible before moving the wires to the screws.
I’m a bit concerned given these wire stubs would technically still be live and may have the same arcing/connection issues as before since they will cool and heat along with the other internal components of the outlet.
Is this not the case? Am I over thinking this?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Link to full size image


texts: What is the proper term for a latch that uses a loop and lever to draw things together?

texts: In this answer I advised the OP to use what I called a 'toggle latch' or 'draw latch'. Do these things have a proper name?


texts: Raising a sunken living room floor and concerned about moisture under new raised floor

texts:
I am raising a sunken living room floor but have some concerns about possible moisture problems under this raised floor.  Here is what I have.

A 1979 typical ranch style.  It is roughly a 16 x 20 room with a 5 1/2" drop down.  At one end is an exterior wall with a brick fireplace that has had a leak that has been repaired.  On the opposite end is a wall with plumbing for the laundry room that has twice over the last 10 or so years had a water leak but now repaired and OK.  Add to this, as we were removing the laminate flooring that was in the sunken living area we notice the underside of the foam pad/vapor barrier under the laminate floor was moist as we rolled it up.

My concern is what moisture problems could I have under the void area?  Should I seal the slab floor or will there be enough air in the void area to keep what moisture may develop there from being a problem?

My plan was to build the floor up using 1/2" pressure treated slats under a 2x4 frame and then top that with 2 layers of 23/32 subfloor.  The 1/2 pressure treated at slab contact for any possible moisture issue.

I can install air registers in some areas if I need to allow for air movement under this floor as well as access for inspection if needed. Another thought was to install ports used for a central vacuum system to be able to access the void and blow air through if needed.

Am I overthinking this or do my concerns about the void area under the floor seem valid?  Vinyl laminate will be on top of the subfloor.


texts: HVAC blower comes on by itself. Even after thermostat has been disconnected from wall. EDIT- POSSIBLY FIXED

texts:
My TRANE XE 90 blower fan has a mind of its own.  Even with the thermostat removed, it randomly turns on.  It has gone a day without coming on (thermo off the wall the entire time) then just cycles itself on.  Just blower, no heat or AC.

Will not cycle off unless I remove power to the entire HVAC unit.  Then, when power restored, fan stays off.  Until it doesn't - which could be an hour or a day.

I left the front panel open and taped the panel safety switch closed (thus allowing the system to cycle on with panel removed.).  When the blower ghost cycled the fan on, I removed the tape and the fan stopped (as it should).  But when I re-closed the safety switch, the blower fan again started.  Thus, cycling power to just the fan motor does not cure, even temporarily, the problem.  But turn power off to the entire unit- then the fan stays off for some random amount of time.  Usually measured in many hours, although not always.

Very hard to troubleshoot like this.

I was convinced it was the thermostat, (have ordered a replacement- thus thermo has not been connected while this has been transpiring over past few days).  I did test short the thermo wires coming from the HVAC unit and all works properly, again which made me believe it was the thermo itself.  But not now.

Wondering if there is a limit switch or relay that could trip or short to the ON position, then a momentary power interuption 'resets' it until some later time.

I find it interesting that NOTHING is being done to or near the system when the blower ghost turns the fan on.   Not even walking by.  The outside temps have ranged from low 60s to upper 70s during this period- pretty benign.

I do not have a heat recovery or transfer system.

EDIT:  Thanks ThreePhaseEel for pointing me to the wiring diagram, and thank Ken for telling me where to find the diagram.  After review of the diagram, there appears NO way power can get to the blower motor except via the 24 volt transformer voltage, which only goes thru my thermostat.  There is no other way to get power to the blower.  Thus there likely has to be a short in the thermostat wiring between the furnace and my thermostat.  Tracing the wiring and reviewing the colors of the wires attached to the furnace output with the wires coming into the back of my thermostat- I find that they Do Not Match.  Different color wires exist at the thermostat versus those screwed into the furnace control block!  There as been a splice, which I found, that spliced in power/control to the outside compressor and also changed some wire colors midstream.  This splice, alongside the outside of the furnace, was just taped with electrical tape to the gas line coming into the furnace.  And it is there that I found small cuts in the wiring exposing the copper of at least 2 of the wires.  Since they were taped without shielding directly to the METAL gas line, I am sure that potential for a short exists- whether thru the gas line or just in direct contact.  You can see the exposed copper in the last picture I have posted.

I will fix the short potential, and also trace the wiring to find out what is really connected where.  Also, I did have an HVAC guy out in the spring of this year who changed out the 24 volt transformer and did a service check, and he was messing with the wires at the furnace thermostat block for some reason. I need to make sure he didn't mistakenly 'fix' something based on the colors he saw,not knowing about the downstream splices.  It may be possible that this 'ghost' fan problem has been going on all summer, and we may not have noticed since in Atlanta the AC runs quite a bit during the summer, and only now that it is cooler does the blower fan bring attention to itself by running at the wrong time. Regardless, I feel I have isolated the problem.  Thanks for help.

shorts


texts: "overnight" we have no cold water at all in bathroom. Hot water works fine. No frozen temps (65+)

texts:
I'm a widow and cannot afford to hire a plumber. I will try to fix myself if I knew where to start. Need help to find the cause. All other faucets and water flow in the kitchen and master bathroom are working fine.
I'd appreciate some guidance/suggestions.


texts: I need to make a straight slot cut with my 10" table saw, the cut needs to be 3/16" wide. what saw blade width would come close to this size.


texts:
I have an IKEA cabinet that is going to have a sink in it. On the bottom, there is a drawer, for pulling out the garbage can, etc.  As you can see from:

the drain line doesn't line up with the centerline of the sink.  From this second photo:

You can see that the drawer is at the same height as the drain.  This prevents simply putting the P-trap at the same height as the drain and using a 45 on the drain to get over to the P-trap.

My question is, how do connect from the drain to the sink, given that the drain does not line up directly and the moving shelf would be in the way.

Also, it would be nice to have some sort of cleanout (maybe with a wye??) where the drain comes out of the wall so that I can clean out the pipes with minimal amount of turns.


texts: Can I flip any hanging beams flat on their side?

texts:
The framing in my attic is annoying because it's very difficult
work near the roof edge, due to the presence
of what I think are called hanging beams -- large timbers
on edge attached to the tops of the ceiling joists.

At first the beams made no sense to me because I assumed their
job was to address side-to-side motion/forces in the joists -- and if so,
couldn't I just flip them onto their sides (flat) to get the same structural
benefit without eating up so much of the vertical space where I need to work?
After more research, I now wonder whether I misunderstood their purpose.
I assume most of the answers to my question will be disappointing and that
I'll have to work around them, but I'll ask anyway:
Are these hanging beams needed at all or were they just artifacts on the
initial framing process?
Can I flip them so they are flat rather than on edge?
Finally, the hanging beams run the full length on the house (one full run
on each side of the house). However, there is one section where that
pattern is broken and the beam simply ends -- in a way such that it is not
actually resting on a load bearing wall at the end (left side of the photo). Which makes me think
the beam is no longer able to serve whatever its initial purpose was.
This exception to the rule occurs over the kitchen where a big remodel was done
by a prior owner and where I can see that the original 2x6 joists (found in most of the house)
were replaced with beefier 2x8 joints. Perhaps that remodel made the hanging
beam over the kitchen irrelevant and it no longer had to extend all the way
to a load bearing wall? And if so, could I at least remove or flip that hanging beam?
Can anyone shed more definitive light on these questions?


texts: What type of joint should I use while building a plywood box?

texts:
I'm building a trophy. It will consist of two boxes...one slightly smaller than the other and stacked on top of one another.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to join the corners of the boxes so that the veneer is the only thing exposed on the 4 corners and top.

Thoughts?


texts: Do I need a separate electrical box for an electric water heater. I was told I needed a one so it's up to code as per the electrician? Changing from gas to electric I thought I could connect it to the circuit box that already there.


texts: Can my water softener's backwash cycle run while the well pump is out of service?

texts: We have a water softener at one of our properties.  This time of year we have power issues.  I want to put my older softener with a mechanical timer on a UPS.  If the well pump is not on a UPS will happen when the backwash starts with the power off?


texts: Puzzling electrical problem with 9 wires in junction box

texts:
)

Hi everyone,

I've spent the last few hours trying to figure out why my light fixture wouldn't turn on and I finally threw in the towel. So I just bought a home that has 2 adjoining light fixtures that are controlled by a switch. Thinking that it was the switch that was causing an open circuit, I replaced it but the lights still would not turn on. I've tried everything from using new bulbs to testing the sockets with a voltage tester. There is a voltage detected, but no light. Could the circuit be incorrect? I've never seen a 9 wire junction box before, only 3, with one hot, one neutral and one ground. Any advice on this would be appreciated.


texts: Do I need to repair a slit vapor barrier on fiberglass insulation

texts: I am cutting holes in the ceiling to install IC-rated recessed lights and I accidentally slit into the brown paper lining of the underside of the fiberglass insulation.  Do I need to repair the cuts in this vapor barrier?  If so, how do I make the repair?


texts: It takes a  while for the water to heat going to the tankless water heater and in doing that, a lot of water gets wasted. Is there such a thing as a pre-heat switch that would start the heating process prior to the water flow activating it? Is there anything that would reduce the amount of water being wasted while waiting for it to get hot enough (like for a shower)?


texts: Does my extension cord have too much internal resistance?

texts:
We had a snow storm yesterday and today I found in my front yard the 25-foot 110-volt outdoor-rated extension cord had caused a melt depression in the 5-inch snow. (In the picture the curving line is the extension cord)

I'm not looking for system optimization here. I just want to make sure that this isn't a fire hazard and it's within safety tolerances of the extension cord.

Edit: I should add it got to 30 deg Fahrenheit  (-1 Celsius) last night so it wouldn't take too much of a temperature increase to cause melt.

New Edit: thank you all for your help. I don't have a voltometer. I will check the temperature when the timer clicks on but I don't think it's too hot to hold as some snow was left on top of the cord. If more snow fall comes down (it's all melted away now) I will swap out cords to see if I can demonstrate the same effect.


texts: wall anchor didn't go all the way in - hit a white plastic?

texts:
Pretty new with everything about drilling stuff into the wall, so forgive me.
I tried to use a recommended wall anchor (click the link for more info), and unfortunately, about halfway through, the anchor couldn't go any further.
I took the anchor out and saw that it faced some kind of white plastic material(?) behind the drywall.
I assume that this is a plastic pipe where some cable goes through it, not quite sure tho.
Any idea what it is?
Can you please recommend to me what should I do next time to avoid such cases next time (besides the apparent avoid drill vertically above lights/wall plugs).
Will a stub finder (with wire/whatever detector) can alert and assist me?
I am attaching the following pictures so you can better understand my case.
Thank you

The hole is on the top right of the following picture


texts:
My lawn retains a lot of water and I've read that using a fork to put holes in can help.

I've already started but I'm afraid to go too deep just incase i got a pipe.

How can i work out where the pipes are?


texts: Is there a product that provides a switch for diverting water through a different set of pipes?

texts:
I have a pond setup where there are two pools, a lower pool and upper pool. Water is pumped from the lower pool into the upper pool, with an electric pump, then flows back through a waterfall.
Much of the pump is plumbed with 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe.
In certain situations, such as during storms, or extreme winds, I'd like to be able to stop the pump from sending water to the waterfall. There may also be situations where I need to be able to quickly lower the water level (e.g. before an impending monsoon), so I'm setting up pipes to divert the water elsewhere.
I hope to be able to achieve that with some kind of switch, much like a switch you see on a railroad crossing. Switch is pointed one way, the water goes that way.
I went to the local hardware store and asked if there is some schedule 40-compatible product that is essentially a switch, basically a Y, and if the switch is set one way, water goes to the left, and if switched the other way, water goes to the right.
The hardware store employees said there is no such way, I need to setup two shut-off valves. That would lead to a lot of confusion in my situation and also could cause problems, as the pump does build up some pressure in the pipes.
Is there some product for switching the water to another pipe?


texts: Okay I bought a door from Habitat Restore. The men there told me what I was buying was a solid oak wood door. I wanted solid wood door because house has odd sized door (31 & a quarters inch wide by 72). Figured w/ solid wood door would be no problem cutting it down to size needed. After husband went to cut door to width it was found to have chipboard core. Not sure if door is usable now...it seems it would have been better to get hollow core door from YouTube videos watched as all you have to do is replace wood piece inside. Cant hardly find anything on cutting chipboard core door. Is it salvageable w/ it no longer having solid wood piece on side? Can only return for in store credit & doubt they will take after being cut.


texts: Is it normal to have water left in front loading washing machine after the cycle?

texts:
I just moved into a new apt, hooked up the washer and decided to do a test run. But I did not realize that the door was not shut tight although I did hear the locking click right before the cycle began. By the time I noticed the water streaming out from the front door, there had already been about half tank of water taken in to the tub, not to mention the flooding on the floor. So I stopped the machine and cleaned up, ran a quick "rinse+spin" cycle, the water in the tub was drained out.

Now, here is the problem: When I started a real load today -- with door shut tight this time, before the machine started taking in water from the hoses, I could hear the sound of water slushing inside. My immediate thought was that there must have been water left from the accident two days ago! The water was not high enough to be visible in the tub but God knows how much still remained under.

I ran this cycle with "no spin" in hopes that the remaining water could be drained out as much as possible. Of course, the clothes were soaking wet after the wash, but I still do not know and cannot tell whether there is still excess amount of water left in the machine under the tub.

Winter is approaching soon (hate to mention it!), I am afraid that if the problem persists, the water left in the machine would freeze. Not just that, I am concerned that the humidity may help grow mold inside the machine.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or ideas as to what I could possible do to resolve the issue. Thank you all!


texts:
A small section of the window frame has rotted away (either that, or a woodpecker went at it)

Here is a picture of it

Click for larger view

What is the best way to fix this? Can I just cut out part of the broken piece and insert it in? I don't know how that piece is held in place.


texts: Does outside air conditioning compressor fan run all the time?

texts: Had some electrical issues with an air conditioner and after I rewired it, I noticed that the fan was stopping every 30 seconds or so.  Is this fan supposed to shut off when unit is running?


texts: I am outfitting a shed with an electrical system. The inside walls are currently unsheathed, and I do not plan to sheath them. I was not sure if I can install Romex directly stapled to the studs without wall sheathing. Is this okay or do I have to use conduit or armored cable?


texts: Paint texture getting rough at second coat

texts:
As you see I got this rough finish at a wall after third coat. What is the reason that this happens? I am using wool 1cm ~ 3/8 roller. Also sometimes I get lots of tiny bubbles that do not go away no matter how ligthly I press the roller.
I am using a satin water based paint. I am not sure if the product is bad since I have various issues like foaming.


texts: How to hide light-colored wires in a dark-colored cabinet?

texts:
I'm installing some LED lights in a particle-board cabinet. The cabinet's walls have dark-colored veneers (nearly black), while the wires to the LEDs are beige, and would stand out quite prominently.

Routing the wires on the other side of the walls is not an option.

Cable raceways I see are all way large and also light-colored.

I probably could use thin dark-colored PVC tubes of some sort, but I'm not sure how to attach them to the walls of the cabinet neatly enough.

Painting the wires black might be the last resort :) I still hope there's a better solution. Is there?


texts: How to temporarily connect inverter-generator safely to mains panel

texts:
I don't have one of these gasoline powered inverters yet, but am considering getting a portable 2200 watt to power lights, fridge/freezer. We are on a small leg (fewer than 20 houses on it) so we always get triaged last when the power goes out, and we're usually out for three or four days after a big storm.

Is there such a thing as a component that is designed to fit into one of the breaker slots in the main panel, with a three-prong outlet on it, that would accept a heavy duty power cord coming from the inverter?


texts: I have multiple misaligned kitchen cabinet doors and I’m unsure of how to fix the problem.   They look ridiculous and we’re putting our house on the market.   Any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated!!


texts:
I have:
DCS RGU 366-N oven
What happened:
Wife ran oven with the door slightly open, heating up all control knobs.
Symptoms:

Oven will no longer heat up.
Ring-light for oven knob no longer lights up.

I checked:

Gas supply: OK
Electrical Power: OK
Stove burners work, including Stove control knobs and lights.
When turning up oven temperature, the relais clicks ON and OFF as I set it higher or lower.

What should I be replacing for this oven, to repair it? There was a schematic on the back of the oven, as depicted below.

Specification Label:

UPDATE:
I removed the front panel, and then removed the over temperature control knob, depicted below:

I used the Ohm Meter to check that the relais indeed closes and opens as I set the temperature. I am going to assume that unit is still good.
I also have this part, which I suspect is the "Stalled Fan Thermostat?"


texts: Threaded copper fitting stripped, whats my next move?

texts:
I have an awkward plumbing problem. I am inserting a T-fitting into the flexible riser of my kitchen sink and in the process seem to have stripped the copper shank coming from the faucet. The fitting:

The 1/2" nut that attaches to the shank coming from the faucet turns, but does not tighten, nor does it come off. When the water is turned on, the joint leaks. So, I think I have stripped this thread somehow.

What's my next move?

If I cut the shank, then the stripped part is still going to be stuck in the adapter fitting. Also, the shank will get shorter, and I am not confident in my ability to thread a copper tube so that it is water tight.

As you can see from the photo, it is a 1/2" to 7/8" adapter which attaches to the copper shank coming from the faucet (the corroded pipe at the top). Even though the pipe has some corrosion on it, the joint itself does not.

I have tried very forcefully to pull/twist it off, but it just turns. Does not come off.


texts: My hot water leaks from the tub faucet only. We have shut the hot water off at the hot water heater and it is still leaking hot water. How do i fix this?


texts: Can I use an adapter to connect a welder to a dryer outlet?

texts:
Hi I recently purchased a chicago electric 170A MIG welder. It runs on 240V and it draws 20A (single phase) but it has a 50a plug on it (nema 6-50). My dryer outlet is a four prong 240v 30a outlet (nema 14-30). So, my question is can I use this adapter?

It states in the Amazon product description:

14-30P Ground connects 6-50R Ground 14-30P Hots connect 6-50R Hots
14-30P Neutral is empty(Open)

Here are the plugs I have.
Thanks!


texts: Need help planning an electrical renovation

texts:
I live in Thailand and I am renovating a small townhouse. I want to do the right thing and plan the circuit breaker with the correct amps.
After a little reading it seems we should use 1.5mm cabling for lighting and power outlets and 2.5mm cabling for a/C and water heater. I'm not sure about fridge, 17kilo washing machine, and microwave. I am assuming they are also OK with 1.5mm cable.
Anyway I think I need a 15amp circuit for each of the 3 bedrooms. I am reading it's also better to have a separate circuit for the lighting and sockets. So does that mean I need 2 x 15amp Siemens breaker for each bedroom? There will be "standard stuff" in the rooms - 4 down lights, probably no computer, maybe a TV in the future. Powering a phone at night. Really nothing special. And how about the living room. Should I have 2 circuit breakers the as well.
I will also have

20amp for each a/C in the house (18000 BTU)
15amp for the fridge
15amp for micro
Maybe a 15amp for kettle
20amp for 2000w water heater

Any other suggestions?


texts: Is there a way to protect particle board cabinets from moisture/water?

texts:
I've been researching cabinet options and one of the cons of particle board or MDF cabinets is that they don't respond well to moisture.

So, is there a way for me to protect, finish PB or MDF cabinets so that I can minimize moisture damage?

I would really only have to do this to the cabinets that are close to moisture sources...such as by the sink, and by the stove.

UPDATE
We're considering IKEA cabinets.


texts: Electrical Question about a 100 amp sub-panel to a 100 amp sub panel in my out-building

texts:
O.K. I ran the appropriate wire from my sub-panel to a sub-panel in my 'out-building'. I stopped by the electrical supply house and spoke to an electrician for the correct wire size for that process...

QUESTION: When I put in the 100 Amp breaker in the 200 Amp Main Panel and run it to the 100 amp breaker in my sub-panel to the 100 amp service in my 'out-building', the wire connections in the breakers are NOT that large. So, what size can I use that would be appropriate....


texts: what to fill surface water drainage trench with

texts:
Cabin is at bottom of steep driveway.  Water runs down and into crawl space.  One very large ditch about 15 feet up gets most of it.  This ditch gets remainder.  On hand - 1 inch round stone, tyvek, plastic gutters.

What can i fill this ditch with?  Plastic drains at big box are less desirable due to cost, but I could buy other materials if needed.  Thanks.


texts: How can I find out if my light bulb is a full spectrum?

texts:
I'm suffering from winter depression, so I would like to have a full spectrum bulb at my desk. My desk lamp has an intense white light. So, I was wondering if it was a full spectrum light already. How can I find out?

Oh, I'm in Germany, if that is helpful.


texts:
I'm about to add butt connectors to the plan for wiring my power circuit. How can I prove, with documentation, that these are safe and up to code? My location is Ontario, Canada. My application is small renewable energy (wind).

I searched all through the Canadian Electrical Code and there is not one instance where 'Butt connectors' are mentioned.

Thanks for your help


texts: Wire identification for a camera system install

texts:
I am replacing some old cameras that came with the home to more modern ones.

I took apart 1 of the cameras to find this:

Now I am guessing the yellow is video, and black and red are power (hot and neutral?)

I am not sure what the wire beside the yellow one is doing. I should add these were most likely installed by Brinks a long long time ago.

Here is another camera I want to replace:

Here the wire coming in has 5 wires? 1 video and 4 power? Hmm not sure what to make of that.

The cameras I bought are Lorex ones that use power and bnc cables:

I am guessing I have to cut that cable open and splice it in? Does anyone know if the supplied cable has three wires? two in the power part, and 1 in the BNC part?

The other end of the cable is a disaster. It must split somewhere and the video part goes into this:

The power might go somewhere here:

But I'm not sure...

I also wanted to install a video doorbell where there used to be a working camera:

backside:

This camera has 3 lines into it: black red white. I am assuming two power and 1 video? Most likely DC power? From my understanding the nest and ring ones use AC power -- so this will probably not work?

Sorry for the long post, need some help!
Thank you


texts:
We are trying to repair the water damage on a wall and we cleaned it up pretty good and sealed the exterior to prevent water from re-entering.

My question is: What should we use to fill the gap in between the window and the wall?


texts: How should I splice the very short wires for this LED shop light into my 12/2 NM-B?

texts:
I'm installing 3 LED shop lights in my basement workshop. I've already run new 12/2 NM-B wire to a few junctions and switches, per light. The attached picture is an example of the final splice I need to make.

The cables that come out of the product (both need powered) are quite short and so don't lend themselves to being pulled into a junction box. It may look like there's just enough slack to mount a junction box right on the joist in the picture,  but not all of the lights are mounted such that their wires are that close to a joist.

The fluorescent shop lights I'm replacing simply pulled the 12/2 directly into the light enclosure, but these LED lights have no room for that.

Would this be an acceptable place to use the (Tyco, etc.) NM cable splices mentioned in the top answer here? If not, what's the best solution?

Thanks,
== Matt

More pictures by request:

Full fixture without the diffuser/cover:

Where the wiring exits the fixture:

Instructions assume flush mounted junction box:


texts: Any reason not to leave unused breaker in the panel?

texts:
My main panel has a couple unused slots, but the metal tab covering those slots has already been removed. One of those slots has an unused breaker, the other one used to have a plastic filler panel, which eventually broke off (it's sitting on top of the panel, one of the tabs that holds it into place is broken off). So now there's an empty hole, which is obviously not very safe.

I know I could just buy a new filler plate, but for less than I'd pay for a 3-pack of filler plates, I could just fill that slot with an new 15A  breaker (which I can use as a spare if I ever need it). The breaker seems like it'd be a better solution since it'll never break off like the plastic filler piece.

Is there any code restriction or other reason that would prohibit leaving unused breakers in the panel (I'll mark them as unused).

Note that the one unused breaker that's already in the panel appears to be a defunct GFCI breaker with the neutral wire clipped off, so as a secondary question -- is it ok to leave that defunct breaker in the panel?


texts:
I've got a home warranty through Choice Home Warranty and, after multiple attempts to get a service tech out here for my AC unit,they declined the costs of repairing/replacing the unit due to the " compressor failing due to burned out windings"....which they (CHW) said "was not due to normal wear and tear".

My question then is: What causes this to happen in a 14 year old unit?


texts:
I am having an existing deck/porch that is attached to my home repaired/replaced due to termite and water damage.  I told the guys to replace any damaged wood they thought necessary. The replaced the ledger, but after the fact I realize there should have been some type of water shedding(tyvek) underlayment behind it.  But it's too late now its done.  Going forward, looking for best ideas to flash the ledger so water will not seep in and rot it again.  Here are things I thought of.  The lumber is PT for ground.

Spray whole board with rainguard(its on order).
Caulk/fill seams on top bottom with some type of roof sealant(henrys/gaco roof)
Fashion/Shape a piece of joist tape(i have imus butyl 4/5 inch) into the top like a metal L flashing.
Put Z metal flashing over that sealed with Loctite joint and seam and screws.
Paint over with liquid rubber/mesh.

Now, some of the steps may or can be eliminated like step 5, but it seems like a good idea.
The thing I am thinking about is the metal flashing.
Should I use vinyl, or use some type of "copper" tape that they sell?enter image description here
I have attached pictures.enter image description here

Update:
Thanks for all answers.  I basically am "duplicating" protection as its only a 20 ft run of PT. My decisions:         1. fill the crack between the ledger and house(plaster) with filler rope and through the roof sealant, which I have used before. I like it.  Clear and dries like urethane or something.
2 Paint the ledger with GACO roof tape(similar to liquid rubber but silicon)                                       3. Install plastic Z flashing over ledger sticking on with loctite roof cement, and then seal the seam on top with mesh and the GACO. (I had to order a case of 40 plastic Z flashings online..I COULD not find anything in stock anywhere in the universe, including the big box stores...they are all out, and have no idea about shipments.  Their is a big time shortage of certain items right now....I figure I will be able to sell the extra on craigslist, since I had to pay $200 for a case.  I only need probably 5.  But I could not waste any more time searching for the items...crazy.
Update 3/29
Here is my final solution.  Caulk the gap between the ledger and house with through the roof.  Add strip of 3" 3M flashing tape over that(since I had it)...install metal z flashing and glue with liquid nails fuze it max...eventually I will just paint over before decking is installed.  I think its pretty secure at this point.
enter image description here

Update : Another use for 3M flashing tape...around edges of plywood sheathing flat roof.  My underlayment will go over this..then my drip edge.


texts: What should I do about mold in a new build?

texts:
I bought my first place in December, five months ago. It's a new 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom condominium in San Francisco CA, and they finished construction in October 2019.

Over the last few days, other residents have been complaining about mold in the same position as my closet in the multi-story building. I decided to check my closet, and found a load of mold along the exterior of the wall. Some areas area more localized, where it follows the wall. In other areas, it's covered the items of clothing, such as my shoes.

What should I do immediately about the mold? I'm worried about breathing in the mold, and unsure of whether I should try and save the items of clothing that have mold on them.
What should I do in the medium-term? Do the builders have an obligation to address the root cause of the issue, and/or pay for damaged items?

Thank you in advance for any advice! I'm a little stressed out by it, so will very much appreciate it.

Edits –

Building description. 9 levels with 8 floors of condominiums, 4 to 6 on each floor. I am on the 4th floor. Some parts of the exterior are concrete.

New learnings: The room where this occurred is on the exterior of the building, where the exterior wall is concrete. I have since found out that the same unit in 3 floors above me and 1 unit below me have found mold in the same area of their units.

What's happened since: I agreed to let the building company arrange for a mold inspector to see the mold, and arrange for cleaners to remove the mold. When the inspectors arrived, they arrived with 3 others' from the building company. I didn't know one of them - they might have been a legal representative (they asked again for permission to enter our unit, and were particularly cautious). The unit above me decided against accepting their offer (to provide mold inspection and removal) on the advice of their legal advisor.

Current state: The cleaner who was sent by the building company removed all the visible mold from my unit, though they only wiped it off surfaces, and didn't check under the carpet etc. The carpet in that area is still damp. I put a dehumidifier and an air purifier in there, though the dehumidifier is pulling up about the same amount of water each day.

Short term ask: San Francisco is going to be in a 'shelter in place' situation for a while longer, so we cannot leave. I therefore need to fix this as quick as possible, even if I pay myself. I don't want to risk health issues due to the mold that has been growing about 10 feet away from my bed, and 5 feet from my desk. I therefore want to identify whether there are affordable solutions that reduce the health risk to me.

(added additional photos and illustrations below)


texts: What is the purpose of a whole home surge suppressor?

texts: Is it useful to invest in and have a whole home surge suppressor installed at my inside and outside panels.  My home was built 2 months ago.  Home do I install the whole home surge suppressor and what should be cautious of.  Will the whole home surge suppressors cause problems with any of my devices in the house?


texts: Thermostat C Wire (Possibly Unconnected)

texts:
I purchased a Honeywell RTH6500 Wifi Thermostat, which requires a C wire. My old thermostat showed a connected blue C wire. However, it was battery-powered. If I removed the battery, the thermostat screen would go dark. After I connected the RTH6500, I measured with a multimeter, which showed 0V on the C wire. All the other wires showed positive voltage. I went up to the air handler and saw there was a unconnected blue wire. Would I be ok stripping the blue wire and connecting it to the other two in the wire nut?

In the picture that shows the wires near the air handler, I'm guessing the three sets of wires are going to the (1) air handler, (2) heat pump, and (3) thermostat. You can see the green wire is also unconnected on a different set. The green wire on the thermostat is connected to G, which I think is the fan. I think that set of wires is probably going to the heat pump, since it doesn't have a fan?

I appreciate any help. Thank you.

I just want to double I'm doing the right thing before I open up the air handler. It looks like the wires are coming out of the panel on the right, so I'm going to open that one up. Also, I've turned the breakers for the both air handlers and both heat pumps off. That should cover it, right?

I opened up my air handler, and I'm seeing the blue wire connected to B terminal on the air handler. I found a wiring guide for Trane, but it doesn't exactly say B is common. The Honeywell wiring guide shows that B can go into the C terminal. I'm not sure what to make of this.


texts:
What could be causing standing water on top of a new yard french drain?

I am working on a french drain solution in my backyard. I just finished covering the last section up yesterday and it started to rain today. Test 1!

Results: standing water on top of small sections of the drain lines.

I got out and removed the dirt from some sections. Looks like the puddle issue is resolved in  some places:

This makes me believe the issue is mainly compact soul, due to working over the finished parts while finishing up the rest. Taking up the dirt for the picture above, it was indeed very compact.

But in other places it looks like the water continues to pool even after removing the dirt:

Why else might I have standing water over top a new drain system?

The make-up is gravel and a 4-inch perforated pipe all surrounded by landscape fabric.


texts: Is it customary to build "built-ins" over carpet?

texts:
I am planning on doing built-ins on either side of the utility door in the image below:

This is a crude mockup of the cabinets I'm going to build:

What I'd like to know is whether it's customary to build these cabinets over the carpet?

If it's good practice to remove the carpet under cabinets like this, is there any magic to tacking it back down properly?


texts: Floating floor tile (Snapstone). Can unlevel be fixed?

texts:
My friend and I put in this floor two years ago.  It is Snapstone, snap together, floating floor, tile that is grouted after installed.

Prior to install, he used floor leveler in the hall area to come up level with kitchen area, where a door jamb exists. All seemed ok originally but I had a feeling that this door area would be an issue.

Here are my 3 OFF THE WALL, LOW COST IDEA/remedies: Scrape out the grout, then...

Spray loctite expanding foam underneath,then regrout.
Pour leveling compound to seep through underneath, then regrout.
Just try to regrout?

I have no more of these tiles left.  This was a small budget project and I'm trying to keep it that way.

PS - Other than this, I LOVE this floor and product.


texts: what is the name for this type of air intake gap on a residential roof which has no overhanging eaves and lacks soffit vents

texts:
What is the name for this type of vent, that is, an approximately one-inch gap above the fascia trim, and where in the IRC is it referenced, if it is?

P.S. I'm not referring to the louvered drip-edge/vent but to the gap itself, which is located above the fascia trim.


texts: Concrete floor brick wall gap leaking severely (garage above basement)

texts:
Basic Problem:
There is a somewhat badly maintained car garage at street level above an area of my basement property. The garage has a concrete floor; the (very small) utility room below has a solid concrete ceiling.
In heavy rain, water leaks very badly down from the garage into my flat, through my concrete ceiling. This is in sufficient volume that it is effectively raining within my utility room; this is not a slow trickle leak / damp.
Rough diagnosis:
Having had a look in the garage, it appears that the water runs to edges of the garage concrete floor, and down a crack/gap between the brick wall and concrete floor slab.
I don't believe that any water was going down through the concrete slab itself (but please do correct me if this is a real possibility), although by the time it reached me below it was coming through various points in the ceiling (some obviously where there were old screw holes; some less obviously holes). So I am reasonably sure it's only going down the edges but have only had a brief look as I do not have access to the garage without begging the owner for help with the leak.
Questions:
So - firstly does this seem feasible that water would be getting down the wall<->floor gap in reasonably large volume? And secondly what is the solution? Should I (ask the owner to) caulk the gap somehow? Is there a particular type of sealant I should use? Or is mortar/concrete more appropriate?
[ Explanation of property layout: The property I live in was converted (from a period house into flats) in a slightly strange way, with my property being 'lower ground floor' down a full flight of stairs from the street; essentially a basement. The 'ground floor' is up half a flight of stairs from street level to the entrance door. This is not hugely strange except between these two, is a garage! (owned by someone who owns a flat in the property, but not me) - so the key point to the layout is that the garage is above my flat. ]
Alternatively/additionally, should I do something to waterproof my ceiling below? i.e. so that whatever leakage occurs quite simply does not reach me. Would this have a negative effect of allowing water into the concrete and never escaping thus damaging the structural integrity? Am I better off allowing the leak to 'escape' i.e. rain indoors on me?
Side-note:
This problem is massively exacerbated by the drainage channel in front of the garage door often blocking with leaves, so rainwater overflows and runs into the garage, but even if I/the garage owner remembered to clean it out frequently, the gap between the concrete slab and the brick wall would still be an issue. I see this is a something of a side-problem that would alleviate rather than solve the main issue. Also open to any suggestions here.


texts: Does a plumbing vent need to penetrate the roof? (Can it penetrate a wall?)

texts:
We're going to move our washer/dryer to the garage (the front loader needs to sit on  concrete to keep it from shaking our house to the ground).

I'll need to add a washer drain to the garage for the washer. Because this will need a p-trap, my understanding is that it also needs to be vented.

I could go straight up into the attic then through the roof, but my question is: do I need to actually go through the roof? Could I instead have it go into the attic then 90 degree it out to the back, second floor wall? I can't find any particular code rules on if it has to penetrate the roof or not. This is a septic system, if that matters.

The reason for trying to avoid the roof is that I'd prefer to not climb up onto the roof...it's about 45 degrees and in the PNW so perpetually wet and mossy.


texts:
I had a copper (baseboard heat) pipe freeze and burst, and need to replace a run of pipe that's exposed to that kind of cold when it gets below 0F outside. The pipe is below the floor on an exterior wall, and is just a horizontal run between baseboard radiators.

I have a temporary fix in place, but two of my solder joints apparently were bad and have a few little leaks, which I have hose clamps and rubber gaskets over temporarily.

So my question is, would there be a problem replacing this section of pipe with PEX?  I like the idea of using PEX since I wouldn't have to solder, and it would theoretically stand up better against the cold (though I am also going to try to address the cold air getting to the pipe).


texts: If my wall has metal studs, is it better to anchor heavy objects through just drywall or also through the studs?

texts:
I live in an apartment that has that has metal studs.  I'm considering hanging various things from the wall, including a coat rack that will span 5 or 6 studs.  I've seen advice that says metal studs are useless and crumple like tin foil and instead of hanging from the studs, I should use one of various heavy-duty drywall screws like SecureMount or Toggler.  I've also seen advice saying that heavy objects should always be attached to studs, whether metal or wooden.  I've even heard both sides by two different employees at the same hardware store.

I don't know the gauge of the studs but the drywall seems to be 5/8" thick.

Since the coat rack will span so many studs, it's as easy to mount it on the studs as it is between them.  So which is better?


texts: Should I leave outlet covers on or off for electrical inspector?

texts:
I've got an electrical inspection scheduled for 4 circuits I added to my garage. I did the work myself and my city uses the most current NEC. All wiring is running in open stud walls in my garage.

I scheduled the inspection shortly after energizing and testing all of the circuits, and it is going to be a few days before the inspection. I'm going to be using the circuits before he arrives, and I would prefer to attach the outlet covers.

Do I have to remove the outlet covers before the inspector arrives?


texts: "Plunge" VS "slide" using my sliding miter saw?

texts:
I have a 7 1/4" sliding miter saw. It has the Diablo 60T blade.

Cross-cutting, I found out that it cuts "easier" when sliding the blade through the wood (like a handheld circular saw), than plunging/dropping the blade onto the wood (like in a non-sliding miter saw).

My question is, is this all in my head? Shouldn't it cut the same, since the blade is a circle and the same at any angle?


texts:
I'm working on improvising a shower to add to our existing clawfoot tub. It's just going to be the piping supported to the wall for now as we're going to redo this bathroom a year or so down the road.

(source: vintagetub.com)
Our tub faucet looks something like this and has no way to add on a shower to it, and the faucets with the showers cost a ton to add. So, since it's temporary, I'm going to T off of the supply lines after the valve. However, I don't know much of why the tub would be piped how it is.
The supply line comes out of the floor at a 1/2" and then into the valve and out at 3/8". I know this is done for sinks and such, but I don't know why or why they didn't use a 1/2" to 1/2" valve instead?
It comes out at 3/8" and goes through a short 3/8" copper line and then into the back of the tub. The 3/8" copper line is screwed into a (reversed?) 3/8" to 1/2" reducer. Then this was screwed into a (reversed?) 1/2" to 3/4" reducer which is screwed directly into the tub's faucet's pipe. I understand that the 1/2" had to be converted up to fit the tub, but why does all of the pipe downsize before it when the tub can fit a 1/2" line?
To retain the most piping and fittings, I'm following the same route with my shower valve, although it also accepts 1/2" lines. Is this the wrong approach, should I resize it all to 1/2"? And why would it downsize when it didn't have to?
I think the downsize can lead to faster water or increased pressure, but I couldn't find anything directly answering this.


texts: How do I get rid of a critter in my attic?

texts:
The last two nights I have been woken up to scratching in my bedroom ceiling. It only seems to happen between 2 and 4am. But it drives me nuts and I can't sleep.

Are squirrels nesting in my attic? How do I get rid of them?


texts: How to get water flowing back into refrigerator after installing a water filter?

texts: I shut the valve off on the Hammer Arrestor, then added an inline water filter, but when the valve is on no water is coming out.  Do I need to turn the water supply off to the house and then turn it on again to get the water flowing into the refrigerator?


texts: Can I run two 6/3 NM cables up the same 2x4?

texts:
I have two 6/3NM cables coming from the attached garage ceiling into a subpanel mounted low inside an exterior wall.  One of the studs is occupied by A/C pipes so I'm hoping there's a way to get both cables stapled to the other stud which is along a door frame (so I can't drill thru either stud to get to another cavity.)  If I can just get those first 2 staples on these cables I can branch one into the next cavity above the door, but how can I staple 2 of them to a single 2x4 without violating the 1-1/4" setback distance?  Is there some way to stack 6/3NM?  Can I "stack" them myself by stapling one to the stud and then nail a scrap of notched lumber over it to staple the other one to?  It's a tight space with the A/C pipes and a 3-gang outlet box so trying to mount a full span fireblock stud in there would be difficult and still wouldn't offer enough room to staple both cables to within the 12" requirement.  Cables are currently in loose flex conduit and I'm wanting to get them to California code, permit, and cover with drywall.

edit: It seems that every possible path I can take with these cables involves them crossing each other and/or some the various 12/2 cables in the wall.  Can a 6/3 NM cross anything inside a 2x4 wall without violating the 1-1/4" setback rule? In particular I'd want a 6/3 to penetrate horizontally thru the same stud that another 6/3 is stapled vertically to.  I could add some slack to the vertical run so they cross further from the stud, but they would still amount to a 1.5" thick mass of wire at the crossing point.

Thanks for any advice!


texts: What's the risk of water/rain falling on a recently placed tilework that's not grouted yet

texts:
I'm currently working on renewing a concrete staircase going to the garden. The shape of the stairs make it a very time-consuming job, as every step needs several custom cuts. Currently I've 3 steps done with the tiles (glass mosaic) on flex thinset and no grouting yet.

I've always heard that it's critical to prevent water going into the thinset while it's drying and they are forecasting rain for tomorrow.  Should I be concerned and take measures to cover the worked steps? Or I just need to let it dry well before grouting?


texts: Can I merge two ceiling light fixtures into one with two wall switches?

texts: I have two ceiling light fixtures on two separate wall switches that I would like to merge into one light fixture controlled by the two separate wall switches.   Do I just make one of the wall switches a three-way?  I am trying to avoid having to fish new wires if possible.


texts: Can power outlets and HDMI wall-jacks be installed with right-angle bends to accommodate very thin walls?

texts:
I have a very thin wall, about 2 inches thick. See photo below.
(This is the podium at a historic chapel.)
The wall might be solid wood? I'm not certain.

There is a crawl-space underneath the sub-floor, so it is very easy to gain access underneath for wiring and jack installation.
We need to install a power outlet AND an HDMI jack here.
Obviously, the easiest solution is to just put the jacks in the floor, facing upwards.
The problem is, this is an area with high foot-traffic.
The jacks WILL get stepped on regularly, which can a) break the jacks and b) become a serious trip-hazard, even when nothing is plugged in.
So we'd like to see if there is any possible way we could drill into this thin wood wall, and install the jacks in the wall, with the cables running immediately downwards into the crawlspace below.
Right-angle HDMI adapters are readily available, but we obviously need to avoid the extra connection if possible (to preserve a higher-quality signal).

Is it possible to get female HDMI cable ends with right-angles AND the ability to crimp onto your own loose cable and install into a faceplate?
I haven't been able to find any on Google, as of yet - but I don't really know where to look.
And then there's also the power outlet.
Most power outlets are too thick to fit inside such a thin wall.
Is there a way to get power outlets that are designed for extremely thin wall spaces?
I'd like to avoid having a box sticking out of the wall, again, because of trip hazards.
(Also because it's ugly.)


texts: Connect 2 heating controllers to one boiler

texts:
I have 2 heating systems:

Drayton Wiser with 2 zones (to use for radiators and hot water)
Heatmiser UH8-RF (to use for 3 zoned underfloor heating)

And I have one boiler for the whole house.

I want to connect both systems to the boiler.

My options:

Connect both of them to the boiler so that they can switch it on according to each own's programming. Is this possible?
This would be ideal because it's the most straightforward but I do not know if this is possible and/or safe.
Connect the Drayton to the boiler and use one of its zones to turn the hot water on. This has only the problem that the 2 system must be in sync or I risk to burn the underfloor heating pump if it goes on while the hot water valve feeding the secondary system is closed.

Any Ideas? Suggestions?


texts: Can you use an Orbit Sprinkler Timer with Rainbird Valve

texts: My house has Rainbird valves and I am thinking about buying an Orbit Timer/Controller.  Can you use a Rainbird valve with the Orbit Controller.


texts:
After 5 years of using the same washing machine, suddenly the drain pipe backs up and overflows onto the floor during the drain cycle. House was built in 2008.
We have done the following and cannot duplicate the problem:
1.) Run water from hose into drain. No backup
2.) Snaked pipe from behind washer. Snaked cleanout.
3.)Used clog buster on end of hose 3 times for 5 minutes. No backup.
4.) Went to roof and inspected vent. Ran water down vent. No backup.
It was suggested that it could be something with the washing machine pump, but we would like to understand that before purchasing a new one. Ideas?


texts:
I have old overhead wires that go between my home and a detached garage. The plan is to remove the overhead wires and install a new sub-panel in the garage with an underground (PVC 80) run between the house and garage.

Right now I am trenching the underground portion of the run and need to know what size PVC 80 conduit to install in the trench.

Here are all of the details. The run will be 1 phase 240V and go from a 100amp main panel and travel 130 feet to a 50amp sub-panel. The run will start at the main panel at front of house, dip into the crawl space, run to the back of the house, dip underground and travel to the garage, then run to the sub-panel in the garage. It is 60 feet from main panel through crawl space. It is another 60 feet underground through the yard, and 10 feet inside the garage to the sub-panel.

I'm know the length of the run will impact wire gauge and that in turn will dictate the conduit size due to fill constraints. I am in California. Also, if you answer can you please give a reference to the part of the NEC that you are referencing? I plan to have an electrician do most the work so for now I just need to know what size conduit to drop in the ground.


texts: If your branch circuit coming from the panel is 12-2 w/grd and protected with a 20A breaker at the panel, what is the standard number of outlets used in most residential parallel circuits with GFCI protection upstream? More or less, I'm asking what is the preference of most inspectors, with the total load on each 20A circuit being the most important?  Thanks in advance!


texts: We are renovating our house, re-roofing, dry lining and getting windows replaced.  The builder recons he will do the dry lining first and then the roof . Does it matter in what order this happens


texts: How can I fix a stripped hole in an aluminum piece?

texts: I have a tripod head that is made of aluminum. In the head there is a small hole that houses a small screw that secures a quick-release plate. After some time the hole stripped and the screw no longer holds. I suspect that there is no simple way to fix it, but in case there is, I wanted to see what you guys think!


texts: Why would the Pilot on a natural gas fluctuates then goes out

texts:
Why would the pilot on a natural gas heater fluctuates and go out?

It sometimes does not fluctuate and works for hours, then all of a sudden flame on pilot dwindles to a fine blue flame with no flame between the tip and the pilot before it shuts down.

This is the 4th heater I've tried with the same results.


texts: Washer stopped being able to spin on regular and permanent press cycles, but works fine on Hand wash cycle. Its not due to unbalanced load. Maytag LAT8826AAE


texts: Why does flushing a toilet or running a clothes washer sometimes change shower temperature?

texts: Admittedly, this isn't something that is happening to me but I'm curious: I've heard that in some houses, flushing toilets or running a clothes washer sometimes changes the water temperature for people taking showers at the same time in the same house. Why is this?


texts: Can "bending" screwdrivers really apply enough torque?

texts:
I was uncomfortably driving a screw to affix a ceiling lighting fixture - either with my knuckles grazing at the ceiling or angling the screwdriver and having it occasionally slip. So, somehow I got the idea to look for a slightly bending screwdriver. I'm not much of an expert so I just, well, web searched. I found a few items similar to this one:

But I wonder - if you can just bend it so far with your hand - will this even carry enough torque to screw anything in?

The best answer would be from someone who's had experience with these kinds of screwdrivers; otherwise - people feeling capable enough to speculate.


texts: How much weight can the studs in a non load bearing wall support?

texts:
I have a non load bearing wall in my home that has a 52' inch LCD TV mounted into the studs. I think the TV weighs around 90lb

I'd like to add another shelf underneath the TV to the same wall mounted to the studs, the shelf should weigh less than 70lb.

The house was built in 1927 and is raised off the ground. Not on cement.

Should the wall be able to hold the two items weighing a total of 160-170 lbs?


texts: Can lost water pressure cause a water heater to leak/rupture?

texts:
I woke up this morning at 5 am to my water heater making loud noises. It had leaked all over the floor and the bathroom sink had a steady stream of hot water that wouldn't turn off. This water heater is electric and was just purchased in October 2018, so it's about 6 months old. The water pressure through the house was so low the toilet wouldn't flush.
Called the water company at 8:30 am and they said there had been an emergency crew dispatched to a water leak in my area. And at 11:00 am said there was no estimate of completion for repair and they are still working on it.
Could this have cause my water heater to over pressurize? The warranty is covering replacement, I just want to know what happened.


texts: Older rental home with fake wood look floor- dull, how to shine/polish?

texts: We moved into a rented house last summer, it has "fake wood" floors - not sure of the brand or type, but the place was built about 20 years ago. We have 3 big dogs, and between their paws and other traffic, the floor just always looks dull. Some areas appear to have been damaged by water/flooding under past tenants.  I have tried the vinegar in water, rubbing alcohol, etc. remedies and it still looks dull and filmed. Since it IS a rented house, I do not want to do anything that will either make the floor worse, nor do I have any intention of removing and replacing. I have read that you can't use products like "Mop'n'Glo" or "Future" on these, so what options do I have?


texts: Should I use PVC or ABS pipes for a swimming pool control system?

texts:
I live in Southeast Idaho, an area with all four seasons. I have an in-ground pool with PVC plumbing which was sort of hacked together by the former owner. The system includes a solar heater on the roof, sand filter, and SWG (Saltwater Generator), 1HP pump.

A former contractor friend suggested I replace the aging, patched-up pipes (the exposed ones near the control system, not the underground pipes) with ABS because it is apparently less vulnerable to cracking in the cold should some water remain, and is softer, allowing it to absorb some of the initial shock of pump's pressure when first activated.

A swimming pool professional, though a bit used-car-salesmanesque, said PVC is "the best".
Which, if either, of these are most appropriate for low-maintenance long-term use?


texts:
I think the foundation crew and the framing crew weren't on the same page. In the plans, this part of the home does not overhang the stick framing underneath. I'm not sure but I think the foundation was built short and the framers had to go past to accommodate the square footage.

QUESTION: Is this safe even though it is aesthetically not correct and does not follow the plans?


texts: I’m installing extruded polystyrene rigid foam board over my exterior sheathing. I got a little behind schedule and now the temps have dropped to the 30s (Fahrenheit). Do I need to allow for the foam to expand in warmer weather? How big of gaps should I leave (if any) on the seams and the edges? I don’t want it to distort my siding when we get back into the 90s next summer.


texts: How do I tighten/loosen this recessed nut and bolt?

texts:
My bed has a nut and bolt that are recessed into a piece of wood.

The only tool I have that fits it is the tiny toy spanner that came with the bed.

The spanner does not grip the nut tightly enough to be able to turn it.

But a larger adjustable spanner/pair of grips does not fit in the hole.

How could I tighten this nut?

Update: The toy spanner did work up to a point, but now it just slips off the nut every time, as if it's too loose.


texts: Need help removing recessed canister light without a screw

texts:
I need to remote a Halo H572RICAT recessed light canister. It has a CFL and I want to remove the ballast so need to remove the can.
There are no screws for sure. I can't see any small slot either that I move the canister to. There seems to be 4 clips that don't move whatsoever. They had like a mini foamy sticker on them. Any help appreciated.


texts: How do I attach a shelf to a plaster wall invisibly?

texts:
Following this question: How can I attach two pieces of wood in an invisible way?

I have another - what would be a good way to attach a shelf to a plaster wall, if it is completely supported (i.e. the attachment needs to withstand pulling or shear)?

I don't know if it matters, but the shelf will be next to a wall on two sides.


texts:
I'm trying to run a front load He Samsung washer (13 gallons water per wash) with water from a 18gal tub sitting on top of it. This is not enough pressure to get the water to work. It needs a minimum of 20psi but likely better if we can get a normal home pressure, roughly between 60-80psi. This means I would need to get a pump, but what flow rate for the pump? There are garden pumps with 1gallon per minute rate that runs 60psi. Will this work? I called Samsung and they tried but have no answer as to flow rate.
Please help identify what requirement in terms of flow rate or anything else you know that I might have missed for a pump to work in this situation.
Why? House burned down. No water source currently, only rain & collected water in buckets. I'm running this off of a generator. It seems the He washer uses less than actual hand washing the clotehs for the family. Thanks!


texts: Should I hang doors before or after drywall?

texts:
Should I hang doors before or after I hang drywall?
What are the pros and cons of each choice?


texts: How can I connect a zwave switch that requires a neutral to 3 way box?

texts:
I have a 3 way switch that looks like it's wired like the illustration below.
I would like to remove the switch shown on the left and replace the switch shown on the right with a Zwave switch that requires a neutral wire connection.

In my configuration, there is a second switch in the box on the left (which I am leaving alone) and 4 white wires which seem to be neutral, all connected with a wire nut.
There is also a second switch controlling a different load in the box on the right which is connected to a different breaker (and different breaker box) and which seems to be wired as shown in the photo below.

Ideally, I would like to also eliminate the second switch on the right and control that load using the same Zwave switch which will be placed in the box on the right. The big problem in all this seems to be that the box on the right does not have a neutral wire.
Can anyone think of a configuration that would allow:

BEST CASE: Both loads to be controlled by my Zwave switch in the box
on the right.
PLAN B: Leaving the single pole switch and load alone
and only replacing the two three way switches with my Zwave switch in
the box on the right.

Any help is much appreciated.


texts:
We have a 15A circuit in the kitchen. Right now there it runs to to a single gang box where it connects to wires that go to the fume hood.  I think the the box was put there to accommodate a switch for the fume hood, but this was never needed, so there is just a cover over the box.  It's white, black and ground in and then white, black and ground out. (The red on the fume hood side isn't connected.) I'd like to put in a 15 Amp duplex receptacle right there.
This is over the counter and it's more than 1.5m from any sink.  (Although it's close to propane stove.)  We are in N.L., which follows the C.E.C.  Besides the fume hood, which is 215W, the circuit currently has about 400W of lights on it.
So can I put a 15A duplex receptacle there with top and bottom outlets connected? If so, should it be GCFI?  If not, can I use a simplex receptacle? (And should that be GFCI?) In short, what are the options?


texts: Can I add elbows to move a b-vent exhaust?

texts:
I am planning out a kitchen remodel, and would like to move the main exhaust vent for the water heater about 4-6 inches from where it currently passes through the kitchen area.   The catch is that I cannot change its path through the upstairs without significantly increasing the scope of the project.  So I am trying to figure out if stepping it over through the kitchen, and then back to the original path would work.

The exhaust is 6in B-Vent.  Water heater is in the basement, has a short lateral run to the exhaust stack (which it no longer shares with the furnace), and then goes up through the first and second levels to vent through the roof.  I am thinking that rotating the lateral run about 20 degrees, and then a pair of 45s where we go into the second level should give me enough offset to do what I want in the kitchen.

Any reason this wouldn’t work/be safe? Or cautionary points to make sure I account for before setting off on this path?

Here is a quick sketch of what I have in mind:
(exaggerating the movement for demonstration purposes, not to scale)

Edit: I looked up the manual on my water heater as suggested, and it referred me to "the latest version of the International Fuel Gas Code".  Looking at the 2012 version of said code, I believe this is the relevant section:

  503.6.9.1 Category I appliances. The sizing of natural draft venting systems serving one or more listed appliances equipped with a draft
  hood or appliances listed for use with Type B gas vent, installed in a
  single story of a building, shall be in accordance with one of the
  following methods:

  The provisions of Section 504.
  For sizing an individual gas vent for a single, draft-hood-equipped appliance, the effective area of the vent
  connector and the gas vent shall be not less than the area of the
  appliance draft hood outlet, nor greater than seven times the draft
  hood outlet area.
  For sizing a gas vent connected to two appliances with draft hoods, the effective area of the vent shall be not less than the area
  of the larger draft hood outlet plus 50 percent of the area of the
  smaller draft hood outlet, nor greater than seven times the smaller
  draft hood outlet area.
  Approved engineering practices.

  503.6.9.2 Vent offsets. Type B and L vents sized in accordance with Item 2 or 3 of Section 503.6.9.1 shall extend in a generally vertical
  direction with offsets not exceeding 45 degrees (0.79 rad), except
  that a vent system having not more than one 60-degree (1.04 rad)
  offset shall be permitted. Any angle greater than 45 degrees (0.79
  rad) from the vertical is considered horizontal. The total horizontal
  distance of a vent plus the horizontal vent connector serving draft
  hood-equipped appliances shall be not greater than 75 percent of the
  vertical height of the vent.

I would interpret this to mean that the change I am wanting to make (using 2 45 degree elbows to create an offset) is permitted, as long as my pipe dimensions fall into the correct range(which they do).  Can anyone confirm?


texts:
About 2 years ago I converted an automotive shop from florescent to LED T8(120 volt). They worked great until we changed the compressor today to a new more efficient and more powerful one (both 240 volt. the old was 20 amp, new 32 amp). 200 amp service.

The lights flicker like crazy while the compressor is running. An unacceptable amount. This is probably from the large inductive startup load? I have checked many things. Loose connections, voltage drop. everything seems to be wired correctly. I have even discussed with knowledgeable electricians.

It seems this is a not so common problem surfacing with the new LED technology. The solutions I have come up with are, 1. have power company supply dedicated service just for compressor. 2. change the size of pulley to reduce the demand of the motor(may or may not fix the problem).

Can anyone provide any input?
Thanks
Kenny


texts: Fan thermostat bypass switch -- best practices

texts:
I installed an attic fan with a thermostat. However, there are times when I just want the thing to turn on and stay on no matter what the temperature is.

I could just add another switch, run two wires from both terminals of the thermostat gauge (both switches on would bypass the thermostat; switch 1 only would be thermostat-dependent; switch 2 would do nothing on its own). I know of how I could do this, but I'm wondering what is considered the best practice here.


texts: How do I properly cut pre-existing kitchen backsplash tile for new low voltage wall plates?

texts:
I'm doing a little bit of kitchen remodeling, overflow from my home theater remodeling. I'm adding some RCA input ports to a pre-existing low voltage wall plate that previously hosted just Cat5 and RG6. Problem is, when this plate was first installed (before I was here), enough room was made only for the cat5 and RG6 aligned vertically.

Low voltage wall plate cutout:

Current Wallplate:

As you can see from the picture, I rather foolishly thought I could just chisel the tile along the edges and break more off.

My question is somewhat twofold I suppose:

How do I properly cut the pre-existing backsplash tile, and how do I fix the damage I've already caused?


texts:
I need to build a headboard in the next couple of days.

My requirements:

can be attached to the wall, I read something somewhere about French cleat
needs to be attached to the bed, to stop the bed from sliding on the hardwood floor (its very old and needs to be refinished so I'm not worried about scratches).

I have limited access to big tools, since it is winter (no garage) and I have about 2 ft of snow in the backyard. I was planning on getting the cutting done at Home Depot or Rona or wherever.

Any suggestions?


texts: Wall outlet discovered to only use one white and one black

texts:
I've searched around, and I can't pinpoint this exact issue on Stack Exchange (sorry if this is a repeat question). I'm not certain if this qualifies as a middle-of-run outlet, or a half-switch, or what the purpose of this setup is.

Anyway, my house I just bought was built in the late 60s, so I've been replacing all of the outlets. However, I uncovered one that has three combined neutral wires pigtailed out to the top half of the neutral side of the outlet, and three hot wires pigtailed to the lower half of the hot side of the outlet.

Why was this done? Is it ok to replace the outlet using the same setup, or should I remove the pigtail? Why are there three neutrals and three hots instead of two?

Here are some photos:


texts: How to fill this gap in the drywall on an odd corner?

texts: The whole house has these cheap strips all over it. We're starting to take them down. This one on the corner has a big gap in it. Do we just put joint compound in there? Or is there something else we're supposed to put there?


texts: What is a proper way to tape a 6” round hole from can light?

texts:
I removed some can lights and I need to patch the holes. Since I already had round pieces of drywall from new cuts, I used them to plug the holes using furring strips. I have several of those to do.
Can I tape these patches with mesh side by side, until it covers the whole area, or should I cut new square holes, re-patch, and apply paper tape (basically a square butt joint)?
What would give me the best result as far as seamless finished texture?
Am I asking for trouble (hairline cracks) by using fiber mesh here?


texts:
I fear the weight level in my closet on the cheap thin metal rod and need to support it in the middle.

I bought a metal support bracket and the support part of the bracket doesn't meet the rod, it's lower than it.

Do I keep shopping for a match or is there an alternative method here?

This is just holding it against the wall as a test fit (not drilled into wall):

edit:

I've been asked to add a few more pics.

The bracket itself is not adjustable; or I wouldn't be here asking this question. The diagonal rod is spot welded by the manufacturer (STANLEY).

The rod itself is metal and uses one of these round inserts that I screwed into the wall. Oh, and the round thing the rod sits in is not going anywhere; i stripped all the bolts in it upon tightening by drill  =(


texts: What is the most economical and energy-efficient way to winterize windows?

texts:
We have vinyl windows (mostly double-paned) and live in a shady greenbelt in Seattle (i.e. wet and dark). We don't have much severe weather to worry about, just a pervasive damp cold that settles in and makes our extremely inefficient remodeled money pit cost a fortune to heat.

I've looked at rolls of plastic for window sealing at Home Depot and Lowe's and have been surprised at the cost, considering it's just a roll of plastic. Is this the most efficient option? Are there ways to winterize that involve materials that could be re-used next winter?

Any advice appreciated!


texts: What should I use to frame walls inside a concrete structure?

texts:
I recently bought a house and it has an unfinished suspended garage (big concrete room with 12’ ceilings in the basement under the garage).

The walls, floor, and ceiling are all concrete and there are steel I beams in place for extra support.

I’d like to finish it and turn it into a theater room, but it isn’t framed. Given that the framing would not need to be load bearing, can I get away with something cheaper than 2x4’s? Or am I going to regret cutting this corner.


texts: Can I use a transformer for a 240v stove/oven on a 120v outlet?

texts:
I'm remodeling a section of my house to add a second kitchen, but I don't have a 240v outlet in the room (I'm in North America). To my surprise the 120v North American outlet next to the future stove is already capable of comfortably supporting more than 6,000 watts! I suppose that means it can carry a current of ~50 amps. The former owner of my house was an electrician, so I guess he must've made the wiring really beefy for some reason.

Is it possible for me to simply buy a portable transformer to step up the voltage from 120v to 240v and then plug the ~40 amp stove into the transformer? On paper it sounds like a good idea, but is there anything I'm missing here? Do North American stoves require something more complicated than just 240v and enough amps, or should this simple idea work?


texts:
So, like most home owners, I have gallons of partially used paint, both from my old place, and old ones from the previous owners here. I want to dispose of these both safely and efficiently (we have quite a few gallons so pricey solutions may not fly).

They're all latex paint. My municipality will take these if they're "dry".  I checked, and I tossed the chunked solid ones, but what about the ones with liquid? How do I dry them?  Can I just open the can? That seems like it will release a lot of VOCs, which I'd rather not. I saw some "drying agent" at Home Depot, is this a good match? Or something simple like kitty litter (we do not have a cat) would be more cost efficient?


texts: How do I splice a drywall metal outside corner bead?

texts:
When re-finishing my ceiling (formerly popcorn, now smooth) I had some trouble with the edge of the tray ceiling in the master bedroom. Since the length of the tray was longer than a standard metal outside corner bead, the builder spliced several together by overlapping a few inches.

For future reference, is that the correct method for splicing? It was really hard to get a smooth coat of mud over it, since it was a sharp irregularity on the corner. (I never did get it perfect.) If the corner beads were butted instead of overlapped, I don't think I would have run into this problem. Would butting the corner beads cause cracking at their joint? What are some other factors that I haven't thought of?


texts:
I had an electrician install a dedicated  20 amp GFCI duplex outlet and 20 amp circuit breaker (both customer supplied) two years ago. The outlet is directly below the panel box. Just this month, I mistakenly operated a 12 amp vacuum cleaner, a 12.5 amp space heater (on max heat), a 1/2 amp fan (on max speed, an air purifier, and three LED lamps, at the same time, out of that outlet for a few minutes. That’s 26 amps, or 130% of the rated current.

According to Waytek’s Table of “trip time versus percentage of rated current”, it should’ve tripped somewhere between 100 seconds (one min 40 secs) and 1000 seconds (16 mins 40 secs). That’s too big a range for me. And the chart was too hard to interpret for me. In any case, it did not trip. How long should it have taken before tripping?


texts: Craftsman HYDROGLASS 390.252282 Replacment pressure guage

texts:
My mother's house has this model or similar with the pressure gauge mounted right into the pump itself. Can this gauge be swapped out without draining the water tank? There is no shutoff valve between the pump and the water pressure tank (only between the tank and the rest of the system).
The copper T junction ones obviously have to have the water drained, not sure if the integrated pump ones do. The tank isn't elevated making draining it difficult.
Scoured videos but they all deal with the copper T junction pressure gauges.


texts: My electricity in my garage went out recently. The UF wires are buried righht next to a large tree, so im assuming the roots had something to do with it. Well it rained for 2 days straight and my lights came on, so im thinking the water is acting a the connector. I dug a section of it up and it was a metal pipie with a white wire running along the side. In the garage theres a pipe that comes up and has 2 black wires(romex) and a white UF. Im thinking black is hot,nuetral and white is ground. My question is its probaly the ground thats cut by the tree so can i just get a new grounding rod for next to the garage and cut at house and pull up the bad one? Thanks in advace.


texts:
I have my gaming place and workplace in front of a window because this is the most convenient and silent place I can have it in my apartment. However, The back of my screens is visible to the outside world to everyone who is walking past.

So what I want to do it is to cover it till the height of the tallest screen and end it with a plank where I can put figurines on and maybe a small plant or two for decoration. What should I use to cover it so I can achieve this?

The window is a two-part in a wooden carcass, the blinds that are currently on it will be replaced so I don't need to keep them in account.

Attached picture:


texts:
I have a shower which has no hot or cold water this cold (2F outside) morning.

I can get to some of the piping directly behind it, inside an attic.  There is at least 8-10 inches of insulation between the pipes and the attic.

I lost temporarily don't have access to my non-contact thermometer, so I can't tell if these pipes are actually cold enough to be frozen.

Without a thermometer, and without obvious splitting/leaking, how can you determine whether a pipe you have access to is actually frozen or not in the sections you have access to?


texts: Is there a way to turn on the air conditioning only on certain days?

texts: We're looking for a way to turn on the air conditioning at our camp, say on a Thursday night, so that it will be cool when we arrive on Friday evening, but to shut it off if we don't go to the camp that weekend.  Can you set a programmable thermostat to turn the unit on for a certain period of time and then automatically turn it off?


texts: How do I seal in/deal with shower drain in foundation?

texts:
How would I seal in this shower drain?

here is the abs drain out and in and I'm wondering if:

I even need to seal it
concrete
silicone?


texts: How do I remove plastic shelving molly clips?

texts:
I have some closet shelving clips I need to remove to paint a wall. The problem is that they are molly bolts. These are the exact clips/mollys.

The question is similar to this one, but in my case, I am dealing with molly bolts, instead of simple wall anchors, and they are plastic which have become hardened/stubborn over time (they are less pliable). With a good amount of fanagaling I can rip them out of the wall, but that makes the hole bigger, almost rendering (or actually rendering) the clip usless unless I patch the drywall to reuse the clips. Is there any way I can "uncompress" the molly bolts, so that I can slide them out more easily with less damage to the wall?

Most sites/videos on the matter, suggest simply cutting off the molly bolt head and pushing it into the wall but in this case its a shelving clip that I want to reuse so I cant cut it. I saw a youtube video on the subject, where they suggest inserting a small screwdriver into the screw hole and banging with a hammer to decompress it, but because these are plastic and not metal, the molly bolt does not want to "uncompress", it just "bounces" when you try to hit it out.


texts: Trying to add a 'C' wire to my thermostat

texts:
I recently got a smart thermostat that requires a 'C' wire. My existing thermostat had only W1, W2, R, G. After removing the faceplate, I noticed there was what looked to be an unused yellow wire in what looks to be 18/5 cable connecting the thermostat to the furnace. It was wrapped around the wire bundle at both the thermostat and furnace ends. My thought was to use this wire to connect 'C'.
My furnace is an old Trane XV90 with no 'C' terminal. My understanding is that the 'B/C' terminal is 'common', and I should be able to use that.
Just to test, I used a multimeter on the existing thermostat wires and get 28V on R and any of the other 3. When I connect R and the unused yellow wire, I get 15V and if I connect any of the other wires to the yellow wire, I get 11V.
Knowing very little about electrical systems, I'm not sure what to make of that. You can see the yellow wire in the photo, just wrapped around the cable unconnected to anything.
I've included shots of the furnace electrical diagram and the terminals. Would it be safe to uncoil the yellow wire, connect it to B/C on the furnace, and C on the new thermostat?


texts: What's the best tool to install a rivnut into a PVC tube?

texts:
What tool do I need to use in order to install a rivnut (rivnut PN with slotted shank) into a PVC tube (fence rail)?

Looking for a tool for infrequent use that works well and isn't of questionable quality. Must be something that can be ordered online.


texts: How do I prevent my gable vents from clogging with ice?

texts:
This is the first time I have seen this happen in my 6+ years of owning my home. It is an older home (45+ years), but has gable vents on both ends (facing east and west). It has always vented well in winter as I've never had too much issues with ice dams.

Last year I re-roofed and also put on soffet/fascia. Since it vented well enough, we did not put a ridge vent on.

My bathroom fan vents up through the attic, but comes out through the wall a little ways underneath the west gable vent.

Recently (the last week and half) we had single digit and even below zero weather. The bathroom fan vent seems to work fine with no issue, but with the cold weather (plus some blowing snow a couple times the last few nights) I now have both gable vents clogged up.

What gives? My immediate question is to find out how in the world do I clean these out? Second, how do I prevent this from happening another time around?


texts: Why do some LED lights go dim while others go out completely?

texts:
When dimming LED lights with an LED dimmer, why do the LED lights at the end of a string of lights go off when LED lights at the beginning of a string of lights go dim but stay lit?

This application is in a kitchen. The LED dimmers were a Lutron Diva C.L Single-Pole/3-Way CFL/LED Dimmer White purchased at Menards. The LED bulbs were Exclusive EcoSmart 60-Watt Equivalent A19 Non-Dimmable LED Light Bulb Daylight (4-Pack)Model#  B7A19A60WUL34 purchased at Home Depot. One dimmer controlled 4 bulbs from one location. When dimmed, the 2 bulbs in the string of lights closest to the dimmer did dim to a minimum but the 2 bulbs in the string of lights farthest from the dimmer shut off completely. The other dimmer controlled 8 bulbs from one location. When dimmed, the 6 bulbs in the string of lights closest to the dimmer did dim to a minimum but the 2 bulbs in the string of lights farthest from the dimmer shut off completely. All of the bulbs used were exactly the same. Perhaps the bulbs were not compatible with the dimmers. Originally I purchased the dimmers at Menards closer to my office. I installed the dimmers using the existing LED bulbs, not knowing they were the kind that would not dim. I then purchased the LED dimmable bulbs from Home Depot closer to home.


texts: How can I correct the rusting as seen here on deck railing?

texts:
I have a couple of questions.
I have gotten tradepersons to install new deck railing back in Dec 2018. So it is about 2.5 years old.
However I can already see some rust sipping out to the surface. One of the veridical wood plank is also bending.

Question 1.
Is it an indication of poor workmanship or material? I just want to understand if it can be totally avoidable in the first place, so I will not repeat the same mistake next time. Not to assign blame.
Question 2.
If I want to rectify the situation, what can I do? For the rust mark, I am planning to apply some outdoor paint. Is it enough?


texts:
Is it wrong if the bathroom floor tiles' ends are not under the wall tiles? Does that affect a bathroom's ability to repel water?

P.S.: My contractor tiled the walls first and even though he left some gap between the floor and the first tiles on the wall, it is not sufficient for all the floor tiles to be placed under it..