texts: I need to get 5/8" into the framing 3" high at the base of my wall framing; Is there an easy way to do this?

texts:
In the picture below I need to push the shower base like 5/8" into the frame at the top of the picture
The shower base is 3" high
The framing is a mess as it hosts the piping for the old shower and sink and a big now empty space after I relocated an air vent

I need this because a preliminary attempt to see how the things fit together shows me that the cabinet overlaps the shower pane 5/8"

The shower base edge where the glass gets installed is 2 5/8" so I will be left with 2" to install the glass which could be tight

Update:
The installation instructions are here
https://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1185992_2.pdf
And here are some details relevant to what I am trying to do
It seems that I am going to have to rebuild the frame as pushing the base under and into the existing framing will not allow me to install the two sheets of drywall as instructed


texts: LED Downlight, in a box, on the wall, with lamp wire?

texts:
The bathroom in my new apartment is sorely lacking in light. There is a wall of ceramic tiles blocking the light from the ventilator fan/light fixture reaching the shower, and its just in a bad place frankly. I don't even get enough light at the mirror due to the angles.
Since I can't/won't make any structural changes, I wanted to see if there was any issues with the following:
Using this MDF Wainscot panel (I will be cutting it down to a single 2ft x 1ft panel):

And this 75W (13W) LED down light or similar, very thin, has bare wire or edison adaptor:

And wire it to a standard lamp wire:

Essentially, make a small box with the LED, hang it on the wall and plug it in, instead of direct wire?

Wires obviously inside the box. May just use the edison adapter if the lamp cable has the same edison base size, so no twist nuts.
The MDF I'll paint with latex paint on the sides and back, and it won't be near water. It will go over the mirror/cabinet, and the outlet is a GFCI. US 120v.
Is there any issues with this? Will the light be affected by being in a small box, or mounted vertically instead of horizontally?


texts:
I recently installed a curtain rod into drywall with the default screw anchor provided with rails (top picture). My partner thinks that the rods aren't sufficiently stable and wants me to do the work again with better looking screw anchors (second picture).

How can I convince them that the setup is stable? I already demonstrated by pulling on the rail. Any other ideas?


texts: My whirlpool ultimate care ii washer stops with water in the tub. It WILL drain if I can get the timer to start again. I can usually get it to start again by moving the dial back around, and sometimes a bit past, the place it stopped. The timer makes inconsistent loud and soft/ fast and slow sounds.


texts: What amount of wood defects is acceptable in a lumber delivery?

texts:
I took a delivery ($200 delivery fee!) from 84 which included eighteen 2x6 studs. Of those, only two didn't have significant defects. About 14 have significant (1"+) wane on two sides. Four have long or multiple splits.  One was wet and covered in black mold.

I didn't even check for cupping, twist, bowing, hearts, etc, as I expect a lot of those defects. But these defects feel ridiculous.

Is this level of defects normal? Did they intentionally load all their worst lumber on the truck for me? Am I within my rights to ask them to take it back and give me better boards?


texts: How can I change the bulb in this light fixture?

texts:
I would like to change the light bulb in the room because the bulb died on me. Trouble is, it is fixed to the ceiling and I cannot take the bulb out. I am attaching two pictures here. On one of the pictures, there is a little knobby looking thing on the top and a slit just below it. I tried pressing on the knob/slit and twisting and turning the whole thing, but nothing happened..it moved a bit but did not come loose. How do I go about this?

I also just tried pulling on it (probably not  a good idea), but it looked like it might break :)


texts:
I live close to the water and there is a high water table around my house. Therefore a lot of water vapor passes through the basement walls. I would like to be able to store stuff in my basement and ideally finish it and not have to worry about mold.

There are a range of options I have been looking at. Such as sealing the basement walls and floor with water blocking adhesive compound such as Drylok, Thoroseal, Blue Max liquid rubber and Xypex Hi-Dry. I am not sure which product would provide the best seal and longest life span in my situation?

I currently have a small dehumidifier in my basement that runs constantly. I don't want to get a bigger unit as this small one is already a big hog on my utility bill. I was thinking of getting an air exchanger that would bring in Fresh air as well as remove humidity and be less costly to run then a dehumidifier. Does anyone have any experience using these to remove humidity from a basement? I found this company EZ Breathe but it looks like they are only installed by professionals.

Putting up a vapor barrier such as 6mm polysheathing on over the concrete worries me a little. I would imagine the water would condense on the sheathing and build up between it and the foundation. I also hear that you are supposed to put the vapor barrier infront of any insulation but that doesn't make sense to me since you are going to have the water building up behind the vapor barrier.

Putting in French Drains inside or outside is a little to expensive for me right now so that isn't an option.


texts:
My wife and I bought a beautiful 3 x 5 ft cherry coffee table some time ago. I should have paid closer attention and realized that it was not finished with any sort of lacquer or urethane - the wood is stained a simple red-brown, but otherwise bare. As a result, it's pretty beat up but only on the top surface of the table. Is it possible to simply seal the top surface with a strong oil urethane if the wood is cleaned properly and the scratches and dings are filled? I've used different fillers for scratches in other projects and never been happy with them (especially the color), so any advice there would be appreciated.

I think the best finish will come from sanding down, re-staining the top, and finishing it, but I'm a bit concerned about the stain. I've stained and finished plenty of new wood in the past, but have very little experience matching stains. I'm not convinced the stain I find would match and I'd rather not sand the entire table to stain the whole thing.


texts: Can two ground rods be bonded via a PVC conduit above ground?

texts:
According to my understanding, if a supplementary ground rod is installed, it must be bonded to the existing rod via a buried 6 AWG cable (NFPA 70).

However, because virtually every side of my house is paved, I have no access to the soil around the ground rods. Could I use a 4- or 6-gauge wire running above ground through a PVC conduit via the basement to bond the two ground rods?

The new ground rod is for a TV antenna, and I have been told it is very unwise to ground it to the meter, which is just several feet away.

Note: The house needs to pass inspection, so please keep that in mind.

This question regards code compliance, which is not specifically requested in this post: Bonding Ground Rod for Rooftop Antenna.


texts: How to add a barrier with access to roll in and out trash bins in my 'public' driveway?

texts:
I have a driveway that is in the back alley.  All of our neighbors have access to the back alley.  Also, all of my neighbors have basically built on their property so that they have used up their driveway.

All of our trash cans are also in the back alley.  Some neighbors roll their trash cans onto their property.

However, some of my neighbors (I don't know which), always put their trash bins in my driveway.  When we first moved here there were SIX trash cans.  Only two of them belong to me.

My question is, how do I prevent people from accessing my driveway (it's about 40' wide and 26' deep).  I would want to put up a barrier on the 40' span.

---------------------------------
              alley
---------------------------------
+              40'              +
+                               +
+                               +
+                               +
+           drive way           +
+                               +
--------- garage door/wall------+

I don't want to install a fence just yet, I just want a deterrent.  But I still need to roll my trash cans in and out of the driveway for trash collection in the alley.

UPDATE
I've moved the bins and also talked to the neighbors but the bins still end up on my property.  Or sometimes they will take my bins if they run out of space in their bins.


texts: Ok to conceal electrical junction box under cabinet behind removable toe-kick

texts: There is a 5 or 6 inch gap between the floor and the bottom of my kitchen cabinets. I have ikea cabinets so the toe kick is connected to the cabinet legs by plastic clips. It comes off just by pulling with a small amount of effort. Would putting an electrical junction box in this area be a violation of electrical code? If I put it there I would mark in the cabinet above it that there is a junction box below so that it would be easy to identify and find.


texts: vinyl plank flooring, entry way door trim question

texts:
I am installing vinyl plank flooring. I am stuck at the door. The problem is that I have a gap (for expansion) that is near to entry door. I want to hide this gap as this looks ugly (see image attached).

Please suggest how I can hide this gap. Note this is entry way door. Any information will be really helpful.

Thank you


texts: Are there any composite/plastic lumber brands that can be used indoor?

texts: I need to build a platform/base in a partially finished basement that occasionally floods. The flood isn't much, about 1/2 inch, but it does stick around for a bit (at least until the dehumidifier takes care of it). Anything made of wood gets soaked enough to weaken the wood, and is probably a good home for mold. My first thought was to use plastic/composite lumber, as it can get wet without any damage, but I can't find information on what brands are suitable for indoor use. I've heard that some brands have gassing issues. Is there a brand suitable for indoor use?


texts: Oven tripping after aluminium foil touched element

texts:
I was just using the grill part of our electric oven. It tripped the main fuse box. I think tin foil touched the heating element.
Now every time we switch on the oven...it trips the whole house.
Where do we look for the short circuit?
Which part needs repairing?

It's a hotpoint Aniston. There are so many coloured wires i dont know where to begin


texts: Receptacle replacement voltage shows as 11V

texts:
Thank you for any help or advice you can provide. I am replacing a receptacle in my basement. The first problem I noted was I had a three prong receptacle, but there was no ground wire. The main incoming wires have a ground connected in the back of the box, but the receptacle ground was not attached to anything.

After the receptacle was removed I switched the breaker on to troubleshoot why the bottom receptacle doesn't work. There are two breakers labeled basement.  If I open both breakers labeled basement, no power. If the bottom one is shut with the top one open, the voltage is normal 110V. However, If I reverse it, with the bottom open and top shut I get 11 volts. What would give me the measured 11 V?


texts:
I am looking for some direction about some love I can give to a barrister bookcase I found for dirt cheap.

It has some loss at a corner and bottom and I'm thinking it may be best to buy new ( real ) wood sides and use a router to make the shelves and door hardware line up to new sides. It has real wood on top, shelves and doors but the sides are found to be a composite when you peel back the edge piece. ( See photos ).

The finish and most everything else about it is fine ( it needs to be cleaned ) so I'd like to keep it as close to original as possible. I don't think it's an antique considering the composite sides and plastic hardware on the doors but still don't want it to die if I can fix it up.

Any advice or help is appreciated!!

Pics were too large to upload so here is a link:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/U2AMhQuKbLn6j22h6


texts: Wiring for basement - do I need conduit?

texts: I am finishing my basement with 2x4 frames. I have lots of single conductor wires (standard and solid core) from the old unfinished basement. I am wondering can I use these single conductor wires among the 2x4 frames without conduits? That is can I just use three bare single conductor wires (white, red, green) without any other protection, such as conduit? Just like the way we use Romex among the frame?


texts: wiring a fan to an existing switch that also controls an outlet

texts:
I have an existing switch that controls the lower half of an outlet we use for a floor lamp.  no other lights or fan in the room.

If I use a triple rocker how can I wire the switches to control a fan light combo on the ceiling?

Can I draw power from the switch?

How do I maintain the switch control of the outlet but also use the same box??

I would run 14/3 from the switches to the light and fan.  But and unsure what wires go where and get pigtailed ect.  A diagram would be appreciated


texts: Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?

texts: Is using 2" roofing nails on the nailing fins of new construction windows enough to hold them in place permanently?  It seems to me like there should be some fasteners in the extension jambs, but maybe I'm just remembering back to when I installed some replacement windows (without nailing fins).


texts:
What would be the best conductive coating for aluminium for good electrical contact and that isn't too expensive ?

The goal is to use aluminium as conductive busbar and would like to avoid the formation of aluminium oxide.

One I found that could perhaps work is the IRIDITE® 14-2 Chromate Coating


texts: How to *Lower* an Underground Pop-Up Impact Sprinkler Head

texts:
I have replaced a broken Orbit Satellite Sprinkler head with an Orbit Satellite II sprinkler head.

In their wisdom, Orbit has made the Satellite II about a half to a full inch longer than its predecessor, meaning I have to lower it or have it eaten by a lawnmower.

How can I do this? It's mounted via the bottom from a supply line that has a 90 degree joint in it. It would be very easy to raise, which is why I've found at least countless guides online for raising a sprinkler head that is too low.

Are there any tips or tricks someone can give me so I can lower it? I'm trying to avoid digging up my entire lawn just to get it an inch lower. Since it's near the corner of my lawn I was hoping to just bump up the grass in the area by under-filling it.

Any recommendations?


texts:
Are all new toilets high off the ground?  Our existing toilets (one 20-year-old Toto and one ancient 5 GPF monster that I am shopping to replace) are around 14.5" from the floor to the rim of the bowl.  But all the toilets I've looked at online (from Kohler, American Standard, etc.) seem to be at least 16" high.

We are looking for a 14" rough-in toilet so is that the reason why they're all so tall?

I know some people like the higher height but we prefer the height of our existing toilets.  Is there a modern brand and model that is similar to our existing "low-rider" porcelain thrones?  If new toilets are all taller, is there a brand and model that's less tall than the others?

Also, I know there are ADA compliance heights for commercial toilets, but for single-family residential (in California) are there also likely to be code requirements governing toilet heights?


texts: How do I ground a new outlet that only has the black/white wires?

texts:
I am adding a new outlet but want to make sure it is correctly grounded.

I have outlet A that I am going to be creating a new outlet B. I tested A and it says it is grounded and want to ground outlet B the same way. How do I see how outlet A is grounded and do the same as B if there is no grounding wire?

I am assuming that it is grounded through the metal outlet box.


texts: Instead of actually flushing (or pushing) the water down the drain, it just fills with water and drains out over the course of a few minutes. Anything liquid will drain out but nothing else (not even toilet paper) Because it seems like it doesn't even try to flush anything away. And also when my neighbour upstairs flush it comes to my toilet. What can possible be the problem,and what can i do?


texts: Is sulfur smell in my cold water only due to the hot water heater's anode?

texts:
I bought a very old house. The cold water has the sulfur smell, but my hot water doesn't. We have a very new hot water heater. Is this due to the hot water heater's sacrificial anode attracting the bacteria causing this smell?

Also, to get rid of the smell, would it suffice to run hydrogen peroxide through the pipes? Or do I need to replace them?


texts:
I just built a home with a walk-out basement.  The floors in the basement are not covered with flooring yet. Superior walls were put up 1st.  The cement was poured late May 2017 as 1 slab and it's approximately 1900 sq ft. I don't know if they used rebar, because I wasn't there when they poured the concrete.

The concrete did not have cracks in it for about 4 months while the rest of the house was being built.  I discovered that the builder did not put the plumbing for the kitchen as per the plans.  He had to break up some of the concrete to correct the plumbing.

After they moved the plumbing and filled it again, cracks showed up and they go from where they filled it to 2 of the walls.  I would say that they are about 1/8th inch wide now.  They started out as hairline, but have gotten bigger over the past few months.

Of course, they need to be fixed before I lay down the flooring.
Any suggestions specifically on what the builder needs to do to make it right?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Adding picture of the fix where builder cracked concrete to move plumbing.  He had put the pipe too close to the perimeter cabinet walls.  It was for the sink in the island.


texts: Some baseboard in one zone are getting hot and some are not

texts:
So I have one zone with two split loops. One loop is getting hot, the other is not. In the boiler room where the zone splits into two loops i can already feel that one is hot and one is barely warm.

I am assuming that one loop is air locked (although i have no idea how it happened) and this is why half the zone is not getting hot.

The only air bleeder i can find is on the side of the split loop that is hot. When i try to bleed air from it all i get is water, no air.

Am i misdiagnosing the issue? How do i bleed air from the cold loop if the only bleeder is on the hot side?


texts: Mounting a projector underneath a soffit containing ductwork

texts:
I’m looking to install a projector in my basement and the most ideal configuration would be to mount it to the ceiling with a ceiling mount. However, the “sweet spot” location for hanging (in considering distance to the projector screen) falls underneath a bulkhead that houses AC and heating ductwork, and I don’t detect any beams with my stud finder.
I obviously don’t want to mount directly into the ductwork for many reasons (vibration, projector misalignment due to changing temperatures expanding/contracting, air leaks, etc.).
What are some other options? The projector is only 8 lbs., so can I use construction adhesive (like liquid nails) to adhere a piece of wood onto the drywall, and then mount the projector into the wood? The projector mount includes 2.5” lag bolts for mounting...
I’ve also considered a projector shelf on the back wall but given the distance to the screen, the projector lens should be 28.24” from the back wall - so that would be a very deep (and perhaps custom built) shelf.
Here’s a picture of the area. Thanks!


texts: Safe mounting of decorative hook with small holes

texts:
I have a few of these hooks I'd like to mount, but I'm having trouble figuring out the right way to secure them. I determined the holes are a bit wider than 7/64 inches by passing that size drill bit through them. I've been looking for screws and anchors that size but I'm not quite sure whether they would even be secure enough? Not looking to put a tonne of weight on this but still would like it to stay put.
I guess I don't necessarily need an anchor if I find a stud to screw them into?

Edit: mounting on a wall with a layer of drywall and then plaster underneath. Will be used for hanging clothes / towels, nothing too heavy.


texts: I had a sub panel installed recently. The plan was that i will be installing my own breakers.  The sub is running off of the main about 25 feet away in my garage.  I understand that the ground and neutral cannot run on the same bars so why did they install it this way?  Below is the pic of the sub panel!  Can i just remove the bonding screw and attach the ground to a separate bus? Im getting mixed answers from people.


texts: Before Staining... Do I need to sand my deck first? Or just chemical wash/pressure washer?

texts:
We've been living in our new place for a few months now and now that we are more settled... I want to stay on top of maintaining the outdoor deck. But, I am unsure what's the material used for the deck (Merbau?) and when was the last polish.

Honestly, it does not look old but it is overly new either. Feels "dusty" when I walk around at times. Based on the picture, do you think it needs a resand? Or would chemical (deck cleaner) and pressure washer would be sufficient?

There's a small portion of the deck on the side that is not covered so it's obviously wearing out because of the weather exposure (see picture) below. Should just that portion be sanded?

Appreciate the opinions there guys :)


texts: How can I measure lengths greater than 50' to a precision of less than 1/16"?

texts:
Is it possible to measure a length greater than 50' to a precision less than 1/16"?

If so, what tools and/or techniques should I use to do so?


texts: Switched outlet in my attic - requried by code to not always be hot?

texts:
I was installing an HDTV antenna in my attic and there's an outlet up there to which I can plug in the amplifier. The problem is that both outlet plugs are switched - they're connected (along with two lights) to the light switch right by the attic door. When I turn off the switch, I lose power to my antenna amplifier as well (I resolved my problem short term by leaving the switch on and unscrewing the light bulbs).

It doesn't make sense why the plugs are switched - can I wire them to power to they're always hot, or is that against code? I'll just pull live power from the switch to the plugs if I can - it's not far - but I don't want to cause code or safety problems later.

Thanks! I live in Arizona, but if there's a potential code concern, I'll consult an electrician.


texts:
I have a 3 switch box. I have some high hats in the front and back of the room and a box in the center of the ceiling.
2 of the switches control each set of high hats. Both are blk & wht. connections. The 3rd switch has to red wires. I assumed the red wires were controlling the ceiling fixture but there is none. Problem is in the attic I see NO wires running to the ceiling box. Where might those red wires be going? Am I safe to just cap them off and run a new set of wires off blk & wht in the box up to the ceiling fixture and install the fixture?


texts: Black mould in silicon around tiles - spraying vinegar or tea tree oil enough or need to scrub?

texts:
I have what I believe to be "black mould" in the silicon section behind my kitchen sink; from what I have read lots of moulds / mildews can be black, but the more dangerous one (Stachybotrys chartarum) I believe can only continue to grow in areas that are constantly wet as it needs constant moisture - because this area can be constantly wet perhaps that is what it is?

Here is a picture:

My question is - I have read that Vinegar can kill most mould (82%) and is far better than something like bleach and stuff like Tea Tree Oil may be even better - but my question is, assuming the vinegar/tea tree oil kills it, can I just spray it with Vinegar / Tea Tree Oil (perhaps a combination spray) and it will kill it and it will no longer be producing spores or does it need to be "removed" as well by scrubbing it out?

Yes, it would preferable to not have it there, but scrubbing it out provides more health hazards by agitating it more which may lead to a lot of spores going into the air, not to mention the cleanup of all the "gunk".


texts: How can I wire multiple outlets controlled by a single switch?

texts:
I’m trying to wire multiple outlets that are powered by a switch. I do not need to split the outlets. The power is coming to the outlets from the panel first. The switch is on the end of the run. Would prefer a diagram for the answer.
Thanks


texts: TV Wall mount permanent bracket arcs forward

texts:
Last night I installed the TV mount bracket on the drywall with two stud support. This was my first ever D.I.Y. lol. Meanwhile, it looks all fine and everything is in place but I noticed that the permanent bracket on which upper hooks are placed is arced forward like a bow and not clinging tightly on to the wall like I hoped (Picture attached). There is a gap between middle of the bracket and the wall. Can this be because of TV weight? My LED is 42' inches and bracket is rated for 37-70' TVs. Is this normal to have some elasticity in the brackets?
or do I need to add more support in the middle?


texts:
seeing that I (and i bet 99.9% of the people here) already have a nice multimeter, i find it kinda of silly to buy a kill-a-watt type of device.

But, on the other hand, it is really impractical to measure Amps/Watts without expending extra for a current clamp. which would set me back $100 if i buy from the same manufacturer as my multimeter.

Is there a in-between solution? Like a outlet bypass that would allow me to conveniently plug in my multimeter probes (or even have banana plug cables, though i don't think it would be too safe) to measure amps/watts on appliances and other devices that plugs into the mains?


texts: Replacing a double wall switch and I am confused by the wiring

texts:
I am replacing a double set of single pole wall switches. One switch controls a ceiling fan and another controls the fan lighting.

There are 4 runs of romex terminating in the box, 1 from the fan/light and the other three from other parts of the circuit.

The fan switch has the black wire from the fan stabbed at the top of the switch and at the bottom there are two black wires, one is stabbed in and the other is stripped in the middle, wrapped around the terminal screw and then run to the other switch.

The light switch has the red wire from the fan's light fixture stabbed at the top and at the bottom the black wire from the other switch is stabbed in and the third black wire is hooked to the screw.

Does this make sense? Why would the electrician have run the black to one switch and then the other?

I cannot use the backstabs in the replacement switches as they don't accept 12 gauge wire. I had a couple of ideas on how to rewire these:

Use an Ideal In-Sure 5 port connector and run two pigtails one to each switch terminal. These don't seem to be sold at home stores and they are quite pricey.
Using an Ideal In-Sure 4 port connector connect the 3 hot wires and a single pigtail which would run to an Ideal In-Sure 3 port connector where two pigtails would then run one to each switch terminal.

Neither of these options seem like great ideas, can anyone provide some advice?


texts: How should I address my bathroom's flickering lights and GFCI tripping mysteriously? (Schematic included.)

texts:
So I inherited a bit of a nightmare for wiring in my bathroom.  I'll be calling in an electrician, but wanted to have an understanding of the problem first, as not to be ripped off, lead astray, etc..  So here is the setup/symptoms.  The entire bathroom is run off one 20amp line (both outlets and lights).  It is a pretty small bathroom, but has a bit of a complex circuit.  The line comes in from the breaker box, and splits in a 1-gang junction- one side of the split goes through a GFCI, the other is passed through non-protected.  Both halves go into a 3-gang junction box.  In this three gang junction, the GFCI protected branch goes into an outlet, then off to a switched light above the toilet (the switch is reachable from the toilet, which is why I think they GFCI protected it).  The non-protected branch goes off to the main lights over the sink, a fan, and a recessed shower light over the shower.

The symptoms- when this circuit is on, the whole house lights flicker occasionally.  Turn the circuit off, and the flickering goes away  (it seems that when the shower light is on the flickering increases).  Also, occasionally the GFCI trips when the fan is turned on.  Now the fan is on the branch that is not protected by the GFCI, which worries me a bit.  So my questions are:

1) Why would the GFCI trip when the fan is turned on sometimes?

2) How bad is this wiring setup (see schematic)?  Was the electrician a moron?  How might it be cleaned up?

3) What would cause the whole house lights to flicker?  I was thinking there may be some arcing going on somewhere in this mess.  Where can I look on my own, or suggest to the electrician?

4) Should the recessed shower light be GFCI protected?  Does the toilet light need to be?  It seems that those two branches should be swapped.


texts: What is causing my gas water heater to squeal?

texts: I have a gas water heater. Starting yesterday, when the flame is on, the unit makes a squealing noise of moderate volume. The noise stops immediately when the flame turns off. This means it is not caused by water pressure in the tank, which would take at least a moment to stop after the flame switched off. What causes this sound?


texts: orange indicator light is on for my outdoor GFI receptacle

texts: why is my GFI showing an orange indicator light..I have tried the reset a few times..I hae tried to unplug and [lig back in..nothing seems to work..it remains orange


texts: What caused a stuck tub drain stopper linkage and how do I fix it?

texts:
I have a tub and shower combination. It has a plunger stopper assembly which was not holding water and the lever would not function correctly. I removed the assembly, cleaned it with vinegar and replaced it. The assembly including the lever seemed to work OK as I was testing it, but then the plunger became stuck. The linkage is free but I can not raise or turn the plunger.

What caused my problem, and how do I fix it?


texts: Which mortise lock/brand I should get to replace this one?

texts:
I got the Marks Metro mortise from HomeDepot and thought it would match the current size (I thought mortise has a standard size). However, when I try to replace it, the old mortise is a bit bigger.
I can't find any brand information on the old one. Any idea which size/brand will match this mortise? The bigger one is the one that I want to match.

Thanks!


texts: How can I patch this ceiling hole my new light fixture does not fully cover?

texts:
I recently had a new ceiling light fitted which replaced a standard plastic ceiling rose. The new fitting is quite slim and the old fitting was hiding a larger than expected cutout in the plasterboard.
What would be the best way to fill in these gaps around the edge of the new fitting? My current skills in this area extend to Polyfilla but I don't think that will work in this situation, at least not without some type of reinforcement. The fitting can be accessed from above.


texts: Do long roof overhangs influence ice dam formation?

texts:
This is my first winter in my current house in northeast USA with lots of snow. There is a ~2ft overhang on the roof all around the house (for better or worse, as noted in another question with pics of roof). As I smack large icicles off the edge of the eaves to avoid them getting too big/heavy/hazardous, I wonder if we'll have ice dams at this house.

The attic could use more insulation and ventilation but it does have some, so that has me on the lookout for ice dams. So far we have tons of snow accumulating on the roof (including the peak) and icicles but no visible bulks of ice on the gutters/roof edge.

I'm wondering how the long overhangs would affect ice dam formation. One thought is that if an ice dam forms and water is sitting above it, the overhang could be damaged (and the rest of the roof due to the weight) but I'd expect water would not dam far up enough to go into the house/walls. Another thought experiment tells me that the overhanging 2ft of roof will be far colder than the rest of the roof (being exposed to outside air beneath it rather than attic air), which could lead to very large and heavy ice dams?

Looking for some expertise/experienced views on this. Thanks in advance.


texts: How to deal with a thick wire in a mounting nipples for a chandelier?

texts: I have a chandelier that came with a very thick insulation on the wires which were intended for use as a plugged in lamp. I am installing it as a chandelier, and it came with the mounting hardware, but the thick wires will not fit through the nipple very well. Is there some technique I'm missing? Even when I've got the thing forced through, twisting the nipple to screw it into the mounting bracket is impossible. And let's not even mention getting the wires to the right length.


texts:
We're going to build up a 4' fence around our property sometime in here in the spring or summer with 4x4 posts.

I've seen that you should bury 1/3 to 1/2 of the above ground post height; so this would make our hole 1.5-2' deep with gravel below. I've also seen that the diameter of the hole for a 4x4 post should be 12".. which would make the radius 6". After going through the math for the hole ( pi x r^2 x h ) it comes out that the hole will have a volume of 1.57 cu ft, but the post itself will take up 0.17 cu ft, so the volume to be filled with concrete will become 1.4 cu ft per post. Right?

The question I have now is that a 50lb bag of fast-setting Quickrete apparently fills 0.375 cu ft after setting. This would mean that we'd need almost 4 bags per post (3.75) - this is also the number that comes up from Quickrete's online calculator. I'm not against this exactly, except that I've seen people saying they've used half a bag per post or a bag a post. How accurate is this and how much should we need? At that rate, we're almost looking at 100+ bags. The 80lb bags fill about 0.6 cu ft and are about a dollar cheaper, is there anything against going with it?

What type of concrete do I need to use, and how much?


texts: I noticed that the top section of my Chamberlain garage door was out of alignment and was set back approximately an inch from where I would expect it to be. I took a look on the inside and noticed that two of the hinges were broken and a third was starting to break. This seems really odd to me, does anyone have any thoughts on what would cause this?  I have discovered as lot of shady construction on this from the previous owner and am wondering if that could be the cause. Admittedly it has been approx a year since I lubricated the rollers


texts: I am attaching a roller blind in a window ingress and the lintel is steel which is proving hard to get through. Will it hold if I attach a batten of wood in the ingress with grab adhesive to the plaster and attach the blind to the wood? What adhesive would you recommend?


texts: How do I connect a WiFi thermostat to my furnace's primary control?

texts:
I would like to install a Honeywell WiFi controlled thermostat to connect to a Honeywell R7184U primary control. My question concerns the "C" wire. The R7184 has the terminals labeled 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the T1 & T2  being terminals 1 and 2. Which terminal do I connect the "C" wire to? It looks like I have 24V coming at terminal #3.

Edit: Sorry, my error the current thermostat wires connect, white wire to terminal 4, and red wire to terminal 3. The new thermostat is a low amp draw which has to be powered all the time, even if the furnace is on or off, so it can communicate with a router.


texts: Best Way to Extend 30A 120v circuit over 300 feet?

texts:
I have an old barn to which i'd like to provide electricity.

The problem is that the barn is about 300 feet away. I understand that voltage drop over 300 feet is fairly significant. Buying thicker wire to accomodate voltage drop of that magnitude may be very costly, and I'd have to figure out how to terminate the end in the panel at such a thick gauge.

Is using a transformer at both ends a viable/smart solution?
Would using two conductors in parallel be a better or safer option?

How is something like this done normally?


texts: Correct method for Patio deck attachment to roof

texts: Just moved into a house, the patio deck roof looks unstable. It's connected to the rafters by what looks like deck nails with no ledger board. Looking for opinions in this condition if I should tear the whole thing down and restart, or if it's a fixable solution. What materials do I require to repair and make the roof safe ? Is this acceptable with CA building standards ? Thank you in advance.


texts: We put up two old french doors, and at the top they each have a spring loaded metal ball that supposedly keeps the doors shut.  I believe they are supposed to slide up against something when they are closed.  But I'm not sure what to get for the doorway, whether something exists, or if I have to make something myself.  I'll include this picture, sorry for the poor quality.


texts: Are hydraulics stronger against compression or tension?

texts:
I would like to use a pair of hydraulic pistons to raise and lower a surface that will hold about 150 lbs, and be capable of remaining in either fully extended or fully contracted modes for long periods of time. Should I mount them so that
A: expansion pushes the surface upwards, causing gravity to act as a compressing force,
or
B: contraction pulls the surface upwards, causing gravity to act as a tensional force?

Why? Or am I worrying about nothing with such a small load?


texts:
A bit of a long post but I've tried to be as specific as possible

I had a new Goodman HVAC put in Dec 2016 (model GPG1430060M41AB). For the last nine weeks the system has been cutting out when the temperatures go below 30 degrees. Once the outside temps start to warm up, it comes back on again. The diagnostic code the system has been throwing out is for the limit switch. At first my HVAC guy changed the board, made no difference. Then ordered a new motor, no difference, (although the temporary motor had a fan running all the time and the system behaved itself during that time.) Once the new motor was installed the same thing happened again. Let me give some details about the last time it went out. I turned the heat from 69 down to 65 ready for bed at about 11pm. Once the thermostat dropped and the system tried to fire up (at about 12.45am) it wouldn't come on. It tried twice more before the safety switch shut it off completely. Since I was awake I turned the thermostat off. The next morning, it was 53 inside the house and 40 outside. I turned the system back on and it came on.

Now, my HVAC guy is saying it's a problem with the ducts but that just doesn't make sense to me, especially since the HVAC was running fine for 12 months, and those ducts were running fine with the old HVAC. One pipe was a bit squished, and he said some of the returns could be better but does that explain the system turning off at 30 degrees? And also, aren't HVAC technicians supposed to check duct work before installing a new system to make sure they are compatible?

The system maintenance and parts have been covered, but the duct work is going to cost a lot. I'm just not convinced by his explanations that that is the problem.


texts:
I was given an ac unit.  got it home and realize plug was different.  There's no identifying info on or with unit but googling plug it appears it may be 20 amp.
The outlet where I was going too plug ac into is on a 20 amp run back too panel with a gfi at outlet.  can I just remove gfi, and instal a 20 amp outlet top match my plug?


texts: Installing a new 4-way switch troubleshooting

texts:
I'm installing a new 4-way switch.
When I flip any of the switches, it's not toggling the on/off state of the final hot wire. The final hot wire (which will supply the light) is always hot. All the travelers are always hot.
Something is supplying continuous power. I'm not sure what I did wrong. I checked these things:

I tested each switch, they're not faulty and are all showing correct continuity.
I checked the neutrals and the grounds, they're not hot.
I turned off all other circuits in the house, it's not accidentally connected to another circuit.

Any ideas?
I wired it like this:

Here are some photos of the actual wiring:
Switch 1 -- the three-way switch is on the left, the other is a single-pole switch supplying another light. They're both connected to the supply power.

Switch 2 -- 4-way switch

Switch 3 -- last 3-way switch (connected to light)


texts: Should I use MDF, plywood, or something else when building a desk?

texts: I'm looking at building a desk but have been reading a lot of conflicting info about which material to use. My main concern is having the desk sag at all. I will also be painting/coloring the desk. Which material is stronger while bearing weight? Which would be the best choice for building a desk without sag?


texts: What's going on with this switched outlet wiring in the middle of a run?

texts:
Help me figure out what's going on here and come up with a way to turn this into a half-switched outlet?
I have a late 1940's house, and some of the circuits are not grounded. I recently replaced all of the switches and outlets in the house, putting GFCIs in the first receptacles on each of these circuits to protect the ungrounded outlets.
While I was doing this, I thought I'd change some of our switched outlets to be half-switched. The first one I did this for was on the end of a run, so it was pretty simple because there was just one cable running from the outlet to the switch. But the second one was in the middle of the run and is set up in a way I don't understand.
Here's a diagram of the outlet and the switch:

The switched outlet has two wires connected to the neutrals and one to the hot. One of the wires connected to a neutral (D) is hot whether the switch is on or off. If I disconnect this wire, none of the outlets further down the run work, so that's definitely my hot line. The neutral from D's cable (E) is connected to one of the three wires from the other cable in the box (C). The other two wires from that cable are connected to the outlet, one to the hot and one to a neutral.
In my switch box, I also have a 3-wire cable, which I assume is the one from the outlet box. One of the wires is directly connected to the switch (1), one is connected to a wire from the other cable in the box (3), and the third is connected to the other wire on the second cable, with a pigtail to the switch (2). Whether the switch is on or off, a non-contact voltage tester beeps at the wire 3/5 connection, so I'm thinking that's what's carrying power to the remaining outlets in the run.
Two questions:

How do A, B, and C line up with 1, 2, and 3? Seems to me like C/E are neutrals, connected to 2/4, and A/D are hots, connected to 3/5, which would leave B as 1, completing the loop for the outlet.
Is it a problem that there's a hot wire connected to a neutral terminal on the outlet, and how should it be instead? Maybe A/D should be attached to the hots and B to the neutral?
Is there a way to make my outlet half-switched with the existing cables?


texts: how to patch the wall with multiple layers of paints?

texts: I'm patching a hole in a bedroom. There are multiple layers of paints. I use lightweight spackle. Can anyone tell me how to fix the uneven wall? Thanks a lot.


texts: Repair sagging ceiling that has heat strips

texts:
House was built 1975 - 1980 and has heat strips in ceiling. My hallway is sagging, I am not sure where the heat strips are.  Are they protected so that a screw will not damage them?

Thanks for your help.


texts:
I am looking to add a 2 person hot tub on my deck. My deck is made of all 2x6 material 12" on center floor joist, with 4x4 post and a 2x12 support band. It sits about 2 feet off the ground. The weight of the tub full would be about 2300 pounds.
Will my deck hold this or will I have to add support?


texts:
I'm running 100 AMP service out to a shed/workshop - and while I see a TON of posts floating around about how to do this and all the codes, this isn't my question.

After consulting with a local electrician, I've agreed (and understand) everything BUT one bit - once the THHN 3 gauge wires are pulled on either end to a junction box, and the 3-3-3-5 SER cable meets it in there - how does one connect these things together?

I've seen people suggest copper crush bolts, and others say no.  I can see that granger sells a plastic case for these things so it's POSSIBLE they can all be insulated from each other.

I've seen the polaris fittings, but can't seem to find something that supports 3 AWG wire.

Any tips/links/etc?  Even if it's just to some additional reading material, that'd be HUGELY helpful!


texts: What kind of super strong bonding agent would be useful to repair a stiletto heel?

texts:
Fiancee broke her shoe I bought her. Gucci told me tough luck.  Cobbler told me it's unfixable.  Before I throw these way too expensive shoes in the trash, I figured I'd give it one shot to attempt a repair.  The metal post is still intact that runs down the center of the heel.

I'm considering drilling very small holes into the white part shown in the photo to increase the strength of the bonding agent.  Any suggestions on what to use?


texts: What additions to an interior ceiling can reduce noises of creaking / pacing from apartment above?

texts:
I live in a UK apartment with the one above currently being used as an AirBnB (or something similar). The only noises I typically hear from the occupants are in the form of stomping, creaking of what I assume is floorboards or hardwood flooring and occasionally shouting.
After contacting the local council, they say they cannot intervene as the noise of stomping and shouting doesn't fall into the list of noises they can impose a silence on, which I can understand as you would potentially risk telling someone they can't walk around their own home! I've yet to get a response from the owner but just in case they cannot or will not do anything, I am exploring other options on what I can do on my side.

I believe my own ceiling is plaster and paint, with no detachable sections with which to reach any wiring or insulation inbetween. I have seen solutions such as soundproof paint or simply temporarily sticking additional insulation onto the ceiling.

If the primary cause of the noise is the creaking of floorboards or similar, what common measures can be employed to reduce the noise from this as well as everyday noises? Or would preventative measures used against everyday noise work as well?


texts:
The louvers on my original (20 year old) outdoor dryer vent have practically seized up and I'm in need of a replacement.  When I take to places like Lowes or Amazon, I only find the style which requires being screwed to the house.  The style I have today is different though.  It not only has retention on the circular portion, but also mounts securely to the square housing.
I'm having difficulties identifying what style of vent this is, or if it's even feasible for me to replace it as-is.  Does anyone know what this is called?  Should I move to the screw-in style?  If the screw-in style, is there anything in particular I should remain cognizant of?  Such as sealing the screw holes or caulking the vent?
Thanks in advance.
Also, sorry for poor photo quality. It's dark, cold, and I'm not ready to clean yet.


texts: Do they make a pull-chain type outlet adapter for garage door openers to plug in to?

texts: I have constant power going to both my garage door openers. What I'm trying to do is come up with a way to easily cut power to them without having to get out and climb a small ladder to pull the power cords. I know they make the pull chains for lamp ceiling fixtures, I was just wondering if they made an adapter with a pull chain to put between the garage door power cords and the ceiling outlets. Can anyone help or have a better idea?


texts: What could be causing my gas fireplace to shut off?

texts:
I have a gas fireplace that is 4 years old, that shuts off after a couple of minutes. The  pilot lights ok, then the burners turn on and work fine for about 3 minutes. After that the entire fireplace shuts off, even pilot.

If the glass door is kept open, then the  fireplace works fine.

What is the fix for this problem?

I sprayed wd40 to clean the entire pilot/burner assembly, but problem still persists.


texts: Can I use an exhaust fan instead of a hood in the kitchen?

texts: Can I install a ceiling-mounted exhaust fan (350 CFM) over my kitchen island, with 48-inch gas range, rather than a hood?  If so, can you recommend an exhaust fan?


texts: What are the practical differences between 1/2" and 3/4" pipe between a water softener and water heater?

texts:
I purchased a WaterBoss ProSeries water softener and plan to install it immediately before my water heater as described in this post.

The instructions for the water softener indicate that 3/4" pipe must be used between the water softener and the water heater. However, the existing pipe supplying the water heater (shown in blue) is 1/2".

Is there any reason I would need to step up to 3/4" between the softener and the heater?

I can't think of a reason, but I'm also a novice whose confidence is his weakness.

P.S. Bonus points if you read that last bit in Emperor Palpatine's voice.


texts: Ceiling Fan wiring - odd voltage measurements

texts:
I replaced a ceiling fan because the fan motor was not working, but the lights were.
I would have assumed I would wire the Red (R) wire to the black and blue ceiling fan wires and the White (W) wire to the ceiling fan white wire. Of course also attach the Green (G) ground wires and just cap the Black (B) wire in the ceiling fixture.
However, when I did this nothing works. So, I measured the voltage coming from the wires and have confusing results. Why these odd results?
W/B - 230 volts. This means both wires are hot, right?
W/R - 50 volts with the wall switch one way, 230 volts with the switch the other way.
R/B - 160 volts with the wall switch one way, 5 volts with the wall switch the other way.
I expected W/R would show 120 volts switched on and 0 volts switched off.


texts:
I need to install some kind of fencing on the sides of my deck to keep my cat from jumping to the neighbor's balcony (lol). I have pots there now to prevent him from his adventures.
I was thinking a criss-cross or trellis style fencing that wouldn't be too dense and could possibly be used for climbing plants.
I've been having a hard time finding anything like this on Home Depot's website. Any ideas or resources for this? Also on how best to attach it to the deck railing?
Thank you for any thoughts or advice.


texts:
I just bought a new apartment and have ceilings that were covered why what seems like concrete popcorn. My contractor didn't scrape away the "popcorn" and is skim coating over it. While the skim coating is not finished yet, it already has cracks all over the ceiling (see pictures). I mentioned this to my husband who is travelling, and he told me he had noticed a crack and pointed it out to the contractor who said the job wasn't done and they would recoat over it and sand the whole ceiling down.
Is this normal? It just doesn't sit right with me.


texts: Can I manually switch off booster fans that are coupled with HVAC blower?

texts:
Could not get upstairs in 1900 craftsman bungalow cooled with HVAC system until the contractor inserted a booster fan in each of the two ducts. Fans are coupled to the blower of the HVAC. Now in fall and probably throughout winter it gets way too hot upstairs. Is there a safe (and easy) DIY way to disconnect the fans from the blower to just have normal air flow going upstairs or would the fans block the airflow if not powered?

Thanks in advance!

Pictures show how the fans were hooked up to the blower control board.

Tom


texts: Lower attic floor joists to increase head room

texts:
An old home I am interested in buying has 10' ceilings on the main level and an attic with 7' clearance.

I would like to replace the ceiling joists (or attic floor joists) in order to lower the main level ceiling to 8' and increase head clearance in the attic in order to make it a master suite.
The main level square footage is just under 900 sq ft.
The home was built in 1922 and has had zero renovations since then, all original inside (horrible kitchen). So I do not think pre-fab trusses were used.  It has a full basement.  Due to age and condition I know I am going into this as a full renovation project, but for $60K it seems worth it, particularly since neighboring homes go for 3x that.  I paid for a full inspection and the home is solid, just seriously dated.  I really need to use the attic space though.  I will try to find those episodes of This Old House that @FreeMan mentioned.


texts: Please help! We have an air conditioning and breaker issue

texts:
What is going on if we experience no cool air from our air conditioner?

Our inside temperature got up to 85° til we went outside to check out the AC unit and we saw and heard nothing but the refrigerant blowing out of the line. We then heard the AC breaker jump. It kept jumping turning the AC on.

Please help with any advice.


texts: Is it possible that our metal gate could be expanding in the hot summer weather?  It has been well over 100 degrees daily on average for a month or so, and for some reason a metal gate we have had for years is not closing properly because it's just too big for it's gateway.


texts: My radon Bubbler pressure is set 40/60, and is a 35 gallon tank, and my well pump pressure is set to 40/60 and is 25 gallons. Regardless of the amount of water we use day-to-day, periodically the Bubbler loses pressure, and I have to reset it, as if we lost power. Sometimes it's multiple days in a row, other times it will go several days without incident. When I reset the pressure in the bubbler/mitigator, the pressure on the well tank does not lower or fluctuate at all. The bubbler has been serviced, and there are no visible/obvious leaks in the plumbing.


texts: How can I make 3 wire sub-panels compliant with current codes?

texts: The sub-panels in my house are all split-phase 3 conductor with neutral and grounds mixed.  Is there any way to make this compliant without running new 4 conductor feeders? (Some of the feeder cables are not accessible without major renovations.)  What are the possible dangers of this setup?


texts: What could be causing corrosion on a water heater burner?

texts:
Every 6 to 8 months or so my water heater (A.O. Smith 'Power Shot' high-efficiency) stops heating.  The first time this happened (mid 2010) a plumber friend discovered that the burner had some corrosion that had fallen onto it that was preventing the burner from firing properly. He showed me how to clean it off and replace it, and I have been performing this repair every time it's happened since.

It is an easy fix, but obviously this should not be happening.  What could be causing these rust particles to fall onto the burner? Is there a repair I should look to have done? I can't see far enough into the heater to see anything above it that might be rusting out.

The heater is about 12 years old, and aside from this issue it works very well.  Here is a picture of the unit in question, in case I have my terminology wrong.  The small pile to the left of the assembly is the pile of rust particles I shook off the circular part.


texts: How do you best help trees that have been damaged by severe freezing?

texts:
In my home area, we had a very deep freeze about 2 weeks ago, at least, for this area. You can usually count on 1 hand the number of days it goes below 30 in a given year, and rarely does it go below 25 (Fahrenheit, BTW). It got down to almost 15 degrees for two nights, causing lots of damage...

In particular, I've noticed many of our plants have either died outright, or are looking to be in much worse shape than normal. What can I do to help make sure these plants don't die any further, and how can I tell if they are dead to the point where it's just worth cutting them entirely down?


texts:
We bought a 1920 house about a year and a half ago and occasionally we can smell a sewer gas odor and I’ve been trying to figure out what the cause is. Whenever we smell it, it’s coming from either the second floor bathroom or the kitchen below it on the first floor. Sometimes it smells bad in the dish washer when I open it up right after running it.

The house was replumbed by the previous owner. It has those red and blue plastic pipes. The sewer pipes (at least in the basement) appear new as well.

Last night, I figured out something new which may be related: when the tub in the second floor bath is stopped, the toilet does not flush well. We had started smelling the odor last night in the bathroom when the toilet wasn’t flushing. My wife took a shower and realized the tub wasn’t draining well and we figured out that the stopper was engaged. After disengaging the stopper, the toilet would flush fine.

I have been looking for a pattern that can explain every time we smell the odor, but nothing seems to fit. Running water to fill traps doesn’t seem to fix anything. I have a couple theories:

The vents are not done correctly
There’s a siphoning issue
There’s a crack in a vent
Toilet seal is breeched (toilet is slightly wobbly)

Do any of these make sense?

Other notes: the previous owners added 2 bathrooms: one on the first floor and one in the basement that has a pump in the floor to pump waste water up into the sewer line. I don’t know if this is relevant. The kitchen was expanded and the kitchen sink moved. There’s a vent under the sink. I can’t figure out where the vent for the second floor bathroom is. It’s definitely not through the roof and the only think I see outside on the exterior wall is the air vent for the ceiling thing.

Does anyone have an idea what could be going on here? What could be causing the sewer gas smell? And why doesn’t the toilet flush well when the tub is stopped? Is that a telling sign of what the issue is?


texts: What is this yellow powder under my carpet?

texts:
We recently moved into a new house and rolled up one of the carpets that was fraying. Under and attached to the carpet is a yellow powder does anyone know what this could be? Are we silly to be worried about asbestos?
Thank you for any help


texts: Refrigerator restarts when a 3 pin plug is plugged to socket like Laptop Adaptor

texts:
Over last few months I'm noticing whenever I connect my Laptop cord and turn on the switch my Refrigerator in the kitchen is restarts as if power has gone and comeback.
This happens primarily with 3 pin plugs.
If I turn on the UPS of my desktop computer Refrigerator restarts in the kitchen. The same happens when I plug in Laptop cord and turn on the switch (not every time but when the charges is not connected for a long time).
I got an electrician for checking but everything seems to be fine with the wiring. While trying to switch the device we measured the voltage and there isn't any fluctuations.
Is there any idea on what could be going on here?


texts: Can a plumbing vent go up and then back down to the connection with the vent stack?

texts:
I am changing the location of all the fixtures in my bathroom.  This move will put the toilet and sink on the opposite wall from the stack.  I was originally planning on running a vent up the wall with the sink and across the ceiling to connect back into the stack, but this was assuming I would be replacing the 85 year old cast iron pipe with PVC so I could easily add a new connection up at the ceiling height.  Now I am considering leaving the existing cast iron stack and trying to just reuse the existing connections.

There is already a vent connection on the stack that is above the height of the sink, so if I could get the pipe over to this connection I could reuse it.  However, to do so I would have to come up the wall, across the ceiling, and then back down the wall with the stack (so I use the old vent connection that is about 4 feet from the floor).  I can't just route the vent horizontally around the edge of the room as there is a window on one wall and a door on the other.

Would this configuration meet code? It seems to me it would work fine since it will always stay above the "overflow height of the tallest fixture".  I am in Ohio, the Ohio Plumbing Code is based on the IPC.

         ║
stack>   ║
         ║
         ║  ╔══════════════╗
         ║  ║              ║   <vent
         ║  ║              ║
         ║  ║              ║
         ╠══╝              ║
         ║                 ║
         ║                 ║
         ║                 ║
drain>   ╠═════════════════╝
         ║
         ║
         ║

EDIT - The drain is 3" and will have a toilet sort of in the middle and a sink at the end (near the vent).  The 3" drain may also tie into the tub drain or I could connect the tub to the stack separately (the tub is right next to the stack so I have more options).


texts: Dog-friendly mouse hunting strategies after a year of using standard products?

texts:
TL;DR: When commercial products have been ineffective or proven dog-unfriendly, what are some other mouse-catching strategies when the mice hide in baseboard heaters and have learned to avoid most traps?

Context:

I bought an old home in an old neighborhood. It soon became apparent that there are mice and they get everywhere*.

Steps taken:

I called 2 big name pest control companies. They both charged a lump fee of $350-500 then came out and put snap traps, then suggested I have a $3000-ish service come out to seal up the house.
snap traps (my own, all over the house)
glue traps (caught far more mice than the pros did)
many completely ineffective repellents
electronic sound-repllents
sprays
pellets

I never got them 100% gone and they keep breeding (or possibly entering from outside, but I sealed everything up as best as I could on my budget). I've probably caught 20 mice over the course of the year. Maybe more.

I had almost elminiated them for a while with well placed glue traps, but then

They learned to avoid them (I caught all the dumb mice; the surviving generation of mice are brilliant)
My dog got her paws stuck in the glue traps 2x despite preventative measures, and I can't let that happen again

So now their activity / numbers seems way up because I can't use almost any traps. The places where I know they go are also often places where my dog could get to and there's really no safe trap I know of for a dog.

What's a good strategy or tool for catching, killing, and/or driving out mice that's very dog-safe?

Any ideas, strategies, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

*I hate mice more than I describe to you. I've been cleaning their droppings and sterilizing everything in the house everyday for over a year.


texts:
I'm planning to build a privacy fence around our property. I want it to be as tall as the local code allows. I'm having trouble understanding the code for out lot.
Does the plan above follow code?
Since it is a corner lot does fence on the side near the side road have to be 6 ft?
What layout would be code?
Thanks for all the help!


texts: How to evaluate the suitability of an electric tankless water-heater

texts:
I'm trying to evaluate if an electric tankless water-heater would be suitable for my home. There are just too many variables to consider, and I wonder if there is a mathematical approach to it.

I'm thinking these are the factors to consider:

Occupants: 2 (no child yet!)
Sinks: 2
Baths/showers: 1
Washing machine: 1 (but little-to-no warm washing)
Dishwasher: 1
Floors: 1

Still, having these data points tells me nothing. Is there a formula of some kind?


texts: wiring furnace blower to turn on when make up air damper is powered to open

texts: I have a make up air damper that is opened to supply make up air to the system return air duct when the kitchen range hood is operating.  There is a pressure sensor in the range hood vent duct that sends 24 VAC signal to damper motor.  I want the furnace blower to come on when this occurs to help pull more make up air into the return.  I have furnace control board with a smart t-stat (Ecobee) wiring landed on the Y,W,R,G and C terminals.  Could I simply cut one of the wires coming from the pressure sensor and connect each end between the R and G terminals?  Or what would be recommended method?  I would like the heat or cooling to also be able to continue to turn on fan when heat or cooling is calling from the t-stat.


texts: GFCI for kitchen outlets far from faucet

texts: I gave a galley kitchen and a couple of outlets on the side opposite of the sink, so about 5-6 ft away from water. Do they need to be GFCI or just regular because they are at a distance? What is the usual distance limit within which GFCI is required?


texts: Hanging up blackboard adhesive over a rough textured wall

texts: Following from this thread, what would be the best way to "smooth" my wall to hang some blackboard adhesive paper over it?


texts: How do you secure pre-built garage shelving to the frame?

texts:
We have built the typical free-standing 4-level garage shelves(similar to this) & want to secure it to the house frame in the garage.

The whole thing is pretty sturdy but we just want to be safe & this is in California, where there is a threat of earthquakes.

What kind of screws do you recommend & how long should they be?
Maybe 1-2 screws per shelf to the frame?

Here is a photo & rough estimate of the measurements:


texts: Looking for a Kitchen Sink Hole Cover with a opening

texts:
I installed a DrinkPod that connects to my cold water link under the sink.

I routed the hose through an unused hole in our kitchen counter top. Is there a Sink Hole Cover, but maybe with a smaller opening in the middle to make this look cleaner? Or what would you suggest? The sink hole opening is about 2" in diameter.


texts: old american standard bathtub faucet still leaks after replacing 2k-2c cartridge

texts:
Just replaced a leaky cold-water faucet cartridge and it still leaks.  It's "better" but far from solved.

The rubber on the old 2k-2c cartridge seemed to be pretty deteriorated (practically no longer existed) and lots of bits of rubber came out.  Is there another washer or seat that is supposed to be there before putting the cartridge in?  Is the cartridge supposed to be rotated prior to placing the brass ring over it?

I'm not sure what, if anything, needed to be in place before putting the cartridge in.


texts: Do I need a subfloor or a Dricore subfloor panels on concrete (basement) for ceramic tile?

texts: I'm trying to do the most intelligent, yet cost efficient method to tiling by concrete basement floor.  On some sites, it states to use a subfloor, with the underlayment.  Others it states to just tile over the concrete, with an underlayment.  I DID purchase some of the Dricore panels, but I'm not sure if using them will be a benefit or just an expensive, no value added addition?  I have no idea the best way to go about this.  HELP!


texts: strange behavior from LED that replaced CFL

texts:
so, our home brand new came with CFLs pretty much everywhere (thanks, california).  as they started failing, i've been trying to replace with LED bulbs where possible...and on the front porch, i tried to replace a burned out CFL with this LED:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011Y51AC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the other day, my wife came in from halloween decorating to let me know that one of the new bulbs i just replaced had burned out (less than 2 weeks after install).  i went out, turned the switch on, and everything worked fine...much to her amazement/chagrin.

tonight when we came home (after leaving the lights on while gone), the same light was out, again.  i came in the house, and turned off the switch while watching outside...a few seconds after turning off the switch, the bulb flashed once (quickly on then off).  i immediately turned the switch back on, and now the light works again.

any ideas?  what the heck is going on here?  i specifically bought bulbs that are supposed to be ballast compatible, and one of them works fine but one of them seems to be giving us fits...

also, for reference, there are two bulbs on the porch, i replaced both at the same time even though only one had burned out.  the one that burned out is the one that's giving us issues now...the one that was still fine (but i replaced anyway) is the one that has been fine the whole time...


texts: This is a model for a light bulb that I have never seen. Does somebody recognize this model?

texts:
I have purchased a lamp time ago. One of the options why I have choose it, is due to has replaceable bulbs and not integrated leds. After purchasing it, I have unmounted to discover the kind of replaceable led bulb that it has.
Seems a rounded led platform with two simple pins for connections in the back area. I attach some images here:

To be honest, is the first time that I see it and I am not able to find the model on internet due to neither I know the common name for this bulb. Obviously is not a GU10 led bulb or a B22 bulb neither.
Do somebody recognize this model?


texts: What type of exterior floodlight will turn on slowly (or not at all) when it's cold out?

texts:
I have eight (8) floodlights on my tennis court. I didn't install these, they came with the court.

Questions: Recently, in the evening when it was cold I switched them on and only 3 of the 8 came on. A few days later in the middle of the day when it was warm I switched them on and all of them came on. The normal functionality of the lights is that they slowly get brighter and brighter (as you can see from the attached images) until about 5 minutes has passed when they are fully "powered."

What type of bulbs are these that illuminate slowly? Is it normally behavior that these lights might not work when it's cold (a few degrees above freezing)?


texts: Michigan Kitchen Sink Electrical Requirements

texts:
Wondering what the NEC code requirements are for Residential Kitchen outlets. I was told that the two wall outlets on either side of the kitchen sink have to be on separate circuits. The kitchen in my home has one circuit but has a GFCI on both outlets. Is this allowed? The GFCI outlets are wired as required by the manufacturer for proper function.

I actually have many circuits in the kitchen. One for the lights which is AFCI breakered at the box. A dedicated circuit with GFCI for each of these: Garbage disposal, Fridge, Dishwasher. Then I have Two circuits for the countertops. one on the north wall and one on the south wall. All circuits are 20amp on 12 ga wire except for the lights. they are on 14 ga. wire with a 15 amp breaker.


texts: How can I get roof rain runoff into pond with an aboveground wall?

texts:
I'd like to collect rain water and have it run through a filter and then into a pond.
The problem is, I can't simply run a pipe underground.
\\
|\\ <-- house roof
| \\
|
|                                            pond
| <--house                                     |
|                                              v
|                    [_]                                                [_]
|                    | |~~~~| |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |
| <-- 12 ft -->      | |    | | <-- overfill drain                      | | <-- wall
|                    | |    | |                                         | |
|                    | |    | |                                         | |
|=====================\ \   | |               <o||-||-<<               / /===== <-ground
           ____________\_\__/ /                                       / /
           __________________/                                       / /
                         \ \.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o/ / <-bottom of pond
                          \__________________________________________/

Normally I would just go from the downspout, into a filter, under ground, then dump directly into the pond, but as you can see two features complicate this:

There is the 2-ft (60 cm) high wall. I'd rather not cut a hole in the pond, that risks leaks. The pond has a 2-ft high wall around it to prevent floods from dumping sediment into it.
There is also an overfill drain in the pond. That is so if the pond fills too much, it drains into the street. That helps direct the flood water away from the house. If the pond didn't have this, the water would spill over all edges of the pond, and damage the walls around the pond and perhaps flood the house.
The 12 ft (4 m) space between the house and the pond is a busy path, so it isn't a good place to run a pipe, unless it is buried, but then how does the water get into the higher pond?

How can I redirect rain water too the pond when the pond has a wall?


texts: What do as-built drawings need to look like?

texts:
For a permit for an office addition to our house in California we need to provide as-built drawings to the city. Among other things, they will use these plans to do title-24 energy calculations.

Are there any resources available online that tell me about the specifications I need to follow when drawing these plans?

Some of the specific questions I am trying to answer are:

Are there standard symbols for windows, doors, stairs, ... ?
How are window and door sizes labelled? How do I indicate round windows?
Which dimensions do I need to include? Every room? Just the outline?
How do I indicate areas in the house that are open across two floors?
What "fixtures" do I need to include? Showers, sinks, toilets, kitchen appliances, furniture, ...?
I heard that I need to provide a break-down of the home's square footage by floor. How do I go about such a calculation if there are areas that span two floors? How do I treat stairs, garage, ...?
What does the lot-plan need to show?

Unfortunately when I do a Google image search for "as-built drawing", I don't really see much of a pattern that is followed. Every image seems to be following its own rules to a greater or lesser extent.


texts: What is the name of the fastener that looks sort of like a screw and sort of like a nail?

texts:
I am starting in on a cargo trailer conversion and the first "screw" I attempted to remove (that fastens the plywood would the metal supports) would not thread out and I stripped it.  I managed to extract it.  It had a Phillips head, but it's more like a nail.
I have seen other videos where owners have encountered these fasteners and said they are a pain to remove. But I haven't found one that identifies it by name.  Which would help in my search to identify the best way to extract these things.


texts: Are portable electrical outlets permitted in a basement?

texts:
I would like to install a portable outlet box near a work area in an unfinished basement. I have seen these installed in commercial buildings and educational laboratory type areas, always dropped from the ceiling with unarmored cable, hard-wired into a junction box. Would this be permitted in my specific case?

A few examples of the portable boxes:

http://pub.tmb.com/ProStringer/pdf/ProStringer-LTR-web.pdf

http://khindustries.com/category/power/portable-outlet-boxes/


texts: Removing double insulated glass from single hung aluminum frame

texts:
I want to remove a fogged double pane glass from a single hung window. It is the top unit of the  window and is fixed.

I cut off the vinyl glazing stops on exterior of windows, exposing the pane glass unit. But from inside the house there are 2 horizontal aluminum strips which are part of the window frame, one located on top, and other located on bottom. The glass is glued to the aluminum stops with silicone.

I am unable to separate the glass from the aluminum strip by inserting a putty knife or sharp blade. Are there any suggestions on separating them without deforming the aluminum strip as it seems to be part of the frame?

Here are a couple of pics showing the horizontal strip.


texts: Could my power strip have killed all my AFCI's?

texts:
Odd thing happened today. My wife plugged a 1700W (clothes) iron into a power strip and tripped the AFCI to the bedroom.

I reckon with the TV and 2 lamps running it peaked over 15A and tripped out. What was odd was the event didn't just trip the AFCI, it killed it (test button fails to work). Not only that, it killed the other 2 AFCI's in the 2 breaker panels on separate branches.

That's odd right? Or is it?

The power strip is suspect, having blown a fuse in another device that was plugged into in earlier in the day - it had never been used before that. So maybe it was O/C from manufacture and sent a huge spike down the wire and fried the AFCI's.

What are people's thoughts?


texts:
I tried to install a dimmer today in the dining area and found my switch is very over complicated. The switch only controls one ceiling light but has nine wires inside.

The 3 white wires are all just connected to each other. Same with the 3 ground wires. Two black wires currently connect to the bottom of the switch and one to the top.

Can I install a dimmer here and how?


texts: How to Lower the Ouptut of Oversized Furnace

texts:
Questions

I would like to lower the output capacity of my furnace if possible. How can I do this? Is it worth doing, or should I just live with it? Is there an easy way? Some ideas: replace burner nozzles with smaller nozzles, replace burner with smaller burner if this exists, close the left of the four nozzles on the burner and move the flame sensor to the third. Since the burner and heat exchange seem to be designed to work together I assume that adjusting the burner output would screw with the efficiency of the system.

Reasoning

I purchased a house with furnaces that have a higher capacity than necessary for the space they heat. I found this out recently when I closed a small vent to one room that is not used often. Closing this one vent, not fully maybe 75% closed, triggered the high limit switch a few times and eventually the lockout. After opening the vent and resetting the system things have been fine. The cycles are still pretty short, but the high limit has not been triggered again since. The system is a Trane 80k BTU 80% efficient, forced air unit. Blower seems to be set to highest setting for heat rather than a lower setting. The heated space is around 1,100 square feet, upstairs with decent insulation and on the south side of Atlanta GA where it does not get too cold. Square footage is potentially lower due to the system not actually interacting with the hall if doors are closes. Returns and positive vents are all in rooms; hall stays warm from lower system. I did some rough estimation and figure I need somewhere between 30 and 40 thousand BTUs of output and am getting around 64k BTUs.

Saftey

I figure tinkering with the furnace to lower its capacity is not safe and will keep this in the forefront of my mind. No lectures necessary.


texts: What parts needed to finish exterior door?

texts:
Some background before my question:

I had a bad installer for my exterior door that faces the backyard. We are no longer in touch because of this and other bad jobs he did for me.

Moving on, I have two issues which I'd like to address in order to complete the door.

Overall Picture: http://imgur.com/Rhywhsa
Closeup 1: http://imgur.com/7Bd6ord
Closeup 2: http://imgur.com/v3Qry17

In order of priority:

Door Sweep: The door was installed unevenly in terms of the jams, and you can see from my pictures that there is a bigger gap on one side of the door bottom than the other. A downward slope, if you will. I'm willing to live with this, but I need to understand what's the best door bottom/sweep/etc to put in there. As it stands now, cold air loves to rush in and I am temporarily covering it with a blanket. The 32'' door did come with one, but it's missing in action for now. My concern with the sweeps I saw at home depot was that I barely have any room to work with before the bottom of the door hits the threshold (As you can see in the pic), so what do I do in that scenario? Can someone please link me a sweep they would recommend knowing the bottom of the door and threshold are almost touching?
Transition piece into the laminate - I saw T-molding and 'Reducer' moldings at Home Depot as well, but neither seem applicable here where the wood ends and the door threshold starts. The gap is less than an inch between the two, around 3/8 of an inch. Advice on how to address the gap?


texts: Why are my outlet and switch plates bowing away from the wall?

texts:
The home is new construction on the beach front in Galveston. The wall is 12' high by 52' long.
From the outside in, it is Hardie lap siding, house wrap, 5/8 plywood, 3" closed cell foam, 5/8" plywood (sheer wall strengthener), and half inch drywall and paint.
On the outside I have calked under each siding board. The foam takes up 3" of the 8" cavity (wall is 2X8) so i have a void of 4 to 5 inches. The wall is blocked every 48". Plate windows take up 3/4 of the wall. The windows are impact triple pane units with a low E.
I don't know if the foam is putting off a chemical that is softening the plastic covers, a heat build up in the wall... I have removed all of the plugs and calked between the drywall and the wall plug. Checked each to see if poly sealed where the wires enter the box and all were sealed.
I have even  had mildew grow under the plate. Some of the plates had moisture on the back side before I re-caulked the outside and repainted. I have put all new plates (plastic) on with a foam gasket behind each. they still are bowing. I have had air specialists (2) inspect the home and they can't figure it out. The A/C units are 19 SIER Heil v speed units that pull the moisture out of the house. The remainder of the house is open cell foam.
That's my story. Any ideas short of pulling the S/R and plywood off the inside wall and filling the remainder of the cavities with foam or bat. I have expensive wood treatments around each window that has already been removed and poly sealed between studs and trim 2 weeks ago. Moisture content in the poly sealed area is high and in the 20's in the wall cavities. Scratching my head.


texts:
I'm trying to assemble a glider patio chair which I ordered. The main pieces (seat, back, sides, etc) are assembled and I'm supposed to just screw the pieces together. How are you supposed to tighten these things? There's nowhere to use a screwdriver to hold it in place when tightening the nuts. The holes aren't big enough for the bolts to go in flush, and they're tight enough that I'm having to screw the bolts to get them to go all the way in. Last time I used carriage bolts on something I built myself, I think the holes were loose enough that I could just push the bolts through and then tighten them with nuts. I don't remember how I held the bolts in place while tightening them on that last project.

Am I supposed to re-drill the holes bigger so I can just slip the bolts in flush?

There is is a good picture of a carriage bolt here.


texts:
Over here in Europe, a common approach to GFCI (RCD) protection is to have one (three-phase) 30 mA GFCI breaker as the main breaker (or something similar such as one GFCI per (sub)panel or one shared GFCI for all the outlet circuits). Per-circuit GFCI breakers are mostly seen only in new construction if you want a real fancy panel. GFCI sockets are not a thing here.

The main advantage of this solution (apart from being cheaper) is that it's trivial to retrofit to older houses without having to disentangle all the neutrals first. One could also say that it's safer, because it forces people to actually fix the fridge that trips the GFCI instead of removing the GFCI. (The main breaker can't be replaced without calling in the utility company, which would obviously take a dim view of removing mandatory protection.)

However, my impression is that such a central GFCI setup is completely unheard of in the US. Is it so? Does the NEC theoretically allow such a solution? Do some homeowners go for it anyway to save a couple hundred bucks on GFCI breakers?


texts:
All called a local fan store in my area and the sales rep told me a ceiling fan should spin counter-clockwise for summer. I know what clockwise and counter clockwise is, but looking up at a fan for some reason it can appear different from looking at a clock on the wall. I guess depending upon which blade my eye picks up on first as it's spinning, sometimes causes me to see it differently. Anyways, I saw this article and video and author's idea of lying on the floor and looking up at the ceiling fan from underneath was great.

That said, if counter-clockwise blows air downward on a fan, wouldn't that just cause the warm air to come down from the ceiling, thus defeating the purpose? So, shouldn't a fan run the opposite, especially in a stairwell leading to 2nd level bedrooms, to pull cool air from my lower level to the upstairs? Just curious, because in my case, my upstairs fans seem to work better that way.


texts: What is the risk of leaving a well pump on a 3-wire system?

texts: A home inspector noted that well pump and septic were incorrectly grounded with a 3 wire system using the neutral wire for grounding. What is the risk of leaving "as is" vs installing a 4 wire system with an expected cost of $1,500.00? Was code when constructed but not up to current code.


texts:
I've got two 1-3/8" thick doors that lead into a small room that contains the water heater/central heater for my apartment. This small room also has vents that open to the outside, so the room gets quite cold. The two doors both have 1 inch wide gaps between them and the floor.

What's the best way to seal this in a non-destructive fashion? I looked for slide-on door sweeps (something like this), but I couldn't find any that fit 1-3/8" doors with a 1 inch gap. I looked at stick-on door sweeps (like this) but I'm not sure how easy it will be to remove them. I'll also need some kind of easy-to-unstick foam for the sides and top of the door, I figure.

I also basically never open these doors, so I don't need a solution that's resilient to use.


texts:
Just what the title asks. Earlier today a tree on our premises split in two in heavy winds. The tree is of a variety referenced 'सागवन' in the vernacular, and Central Provinces Teak else-wise - that it topped itself is extremely surprising, and uncommon!

After trimming the foliage, and off-shoots I hope to season it. After taking a quick gander at the various notes on seasoning posted online, here's what I find myself wondering

Is wood seasoned with, or without the bark?
Should I simply leave the log lying on the ground? It is a fairly hard kind, and the fallen length (approx. 50 ft) far too heavy to lift.
Need I take any precautions against warp/split?

p.s. I'm told grand-dad seasoned wood letting it lie up-to 10 years thus!


texts:
I searched for 30 minutes, and I could not find the furnace filter, is it possible to install/build a filter slot? my whole family got allergy after turning on heater this winter.  Thank you!

Lennox 80mgf4-75a
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/50982191/IMG_1425.JPG


texts:
Greatly appreciate if anyone out there would have an idea what to use to support a lift in the center of a 16 ft span, and have a 1500 lbs max load?
Thinking of maybe three stacked 2x8x16s??


texts: How can I find the circuit breaker that my outdoor outlet is on?

texts: I have one outdoor outlet where there is no power coming in and I am unable to determine which circuit breaker it is on so I can restore the power.


texts:
What's the best way to dewinterize a home?  What could go wrong if water is just turned back on without doing anything else?

I am in St Louis, MO. The home has been winterized since December.  The weather was pretty cold at a time, but now it's fairly warm.

I read this article and the process seems pretty exhaustive so I just wanted to know if it's really that necessary especially with water heater and such. Is it safe to just make sure all water faucets are on and then turn water back on?  Should electricity to water heater be off?

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/dewinterize-house-88126.html


texts:
My garage was built quite a while ago, and the belly boards need some fixing. They are either seeping moisture into the garage or leaking from cracks. I'm wondering if people think I should replace the boards entirely or try to seal them up with more material over them?
Here are some shots for reference:

This side of the house the board is below the sidewalk a bit. The boards closer to the door (in the pictures above) have started to bulge, there are large gaps at the tongue and groove where they fit together. I sprayed some foam in the visible gaps to stop rats from getting in and prevent any leaks (the yellow foam can be seen in the shot, it's sort of faint). There is moisture seeping into the garage still though, when it rains hard, some new plywood siding I put up inside the garage is starting to look moist down towards the floor.
The other side of the house is worse I think. No visible gaps, but the boards are super worn. I recently cleared out a ton of brush on this side, there were two large butterfly bush trees wedged between the garage and fence that I took out. I think these boards are also seeping moisture into the garage (might start leaking more now that I took the trees out).

Should I for sure go to the trouble to replace the boards? Seems like it might be doable to seal them up with more material, and that the job would be easier.
Update 4/28/2020
I ended up purchasing some white aluminum siding and slid it up under the siding as recommended by Ed Beal, also sprayed a bleach solution as recommended by JACK beforehand. Thanks for the recommendations guys!


texts: Stacking two 6x6 posts for two story deck

texts:
We are having our two story deck fixed. The deck is built on the downward sloping side of a hill and the footings were failing. The footings were replaced with much larger tube-formed footings.

When the contractor installed the new posts, he actually cut off the old posts (approximately 20'-22' lengths) at the halfway point and put new posts (vertically of course) under the old/existing posts. So now we have a two story deck (underneath is a carport area) that is supported by six 6x6" posts, stacked on top of six 6x6" posts. This just looks wrong and dangerous.

Is it acceptable to stack posts on top of one another to create a total height of 20'+ for the purposes of deck construction and support? If so, how should the posts be secured to one another?


texts: how to deter children from opening an interior door

texts:
I have extensive work being done in one of the rooms in the house. For their own safety, I would like to keep curious 3-to-6-year-olds out of that room. The door to the room has no lock, and opens inward into the room.

I will of course explain to the children not to go there, and put appropriate incentives for compliance. However, I do not expect this to be 100% effective, and so am looking for a mechanical solution as well.

Note that the solution need not be 100% effective. For example, if a child needs to fetch a chair to stand upon to unlock the door, that is acceptable. I just want something to protect from impulsive "I am just going to take a small peek, I promise." Because this is only for a couple of weeks, I do not want to install a lock. Ideally I would like not to have to repaint the area either.


texts: Toilet tank suddenly opened by itself and one of the toilet valve is extended beyond the toilet tank height. What should I do? Can I fix it by myself?

texts: It cannot be pushed down or something like that. After this happened, the water also is leaking to the toilet bowl when it's full , so I turned off the water valve


texts: Does code allow flexible PVC for drain through joists?

texts:
I need to run a drain line for a sink through a multitude of joists. I could certainly cut 16" pieces of PVC pipe and use couplers to join, but, the numerous joints seems like an excess of places that failure could occur.
PVC pipe, with added plasticisers to make it flexible, behaves almost exactly like rigid PVC in terms of pressure rating, interior smoothness, etc. It can be solvent welded into regular PVC fittings. Would it be to code (2018 NSPC; I'm in NJ) to use a carefully supported run of flexible PVC to ensure slope is maintained in place of rigid PVC with numerous joints?


texts: My AC and Heat systems are separate, Can I wire one or both fan(only) controls to my thermostat?

texts:
My house used to have just Forced Air heat, but a year and a half ago, I had central air installed.
When it was installed I had questions about the wiring they weren't addressed to my satisfaction.

Details:

The forced air heat and the central air use separate duct sets. So, they have separate blower fans.
There is one thermostat (Honeywell PRO 4000 5-2) controlling both systems.
It has a setting for fan on/auto, and I would like to use the fan-only setting.
These systems are on different circuits.
The Inside AC unit is “ICP”FXM4X3600AL.
The furnace is HEIL model 5000.

Questions:

Is it safe for the fan to be wired?
Should only one be wired? (Which) Could both safely be wired to fan?
Should there be two thermostats?
If the breaker pops for one does the power for the fan going through cause issues to the blower of the one whose breaker is popped?

Thermostat wiring:


texts: Help wiring a ceiling fan switch with oscillating and fan switch

texts: Here is what I have going on. I currently have a motion sensing switch wired in the garage to a single light. From that light two outlets have been added to plug in two additional overhead shop lights.  I have ran 14-3 wire from the switch box up to where the light was. The light has been replaced by an oscillating ceiling fan. I would like to keep the motion sensing switch to control the two overhead shop lights and wire the fan switch separate from the shop lights to just control the fan.  The motion sensing switch has just one red screw and one black screw. The switch for the oscillating fan has one blue wire, one white/black wire, one black wire and one white wire. There are 3 sets of wires coming into the box now 4 with the 14-3 I ran.  can you please help me wire this?


texts: How do I take apart an older model bathroom faucet?

texts:
I'm trying to take apart a leaky bathroom faucet.  I've isolated the leak to the cold valve, but I cannot figure out how to disassemble the faucet.  I've watched several helpful videos and read through some helpful questions, but I've got an older faucet and they don't apply.  Here's a pic:

So far the things I have tried are:

I've taken the screw out of the top, but that does not seem to loosen anything
I've screwed the short metal rod from the handle back in the side, and used that as leverage to yank and twist, but that doesn't help me pull the top off
I've rotated the tap fully clockwise (the direction that turns the water on) several full turns around, and it does not appear to be loosening
I've screwed the short metal rod from the handle into the tap and used a crowbar to hit the tap upwards, but it does not move up

I don't see any other places/parts/screws I could use to disassemble this.  How do I take this apart?  Thanks.

Edit: I added two more steps I've tried to remove the tap


texts: Water heater requiring 30A breaker running on 20A

texts:
I called a plumber to upgrade my water heater. The current breaker is a 20A. The new water heater requires a 30A.
But my wiring is #12.

The plumber said, without much conviction, that it's fine for now, and installed the new water heater.

My current setup is:

20A breaker 240V, #12 wire, new water heater.

As soon as possible, I'll upgrade to:

30A breaker 240V, #10 wire.

What's the worst that can happen in the mean time ?


texts: Problem with GU10 LED bulbs tripping out power

texts:
I have had some re-plastering and re-decorating work done in my kitchen. I had a new light fixture installed which takes 6 GU10 type bulbs. When the light fixture was first installed I placed 6 LED bulbs into it. The bulbs are Aurora branded and consume 7W of power each.

When I switch on the light it trips out the power on the Residual Current Detector (RCD) in my house.  We assumed the problem was with the old wiring - perhaps it got damaged when the work was being done.  So we ran a new wire to the fixture from a new light switch.

The power still tripped out. Next we assumed the light fitting itself was faulty, so we returned it and got another.

Still the power trips out.

Then I thought it might be the LED bulbs, so I swapped them out for the 6 Halogen bulbs that came for free with the fixture - it works perfectly!

So the problem seems to be with the LEDs, but how can LED bulbs cause electrical problems?  I paid £10 per bulb so wouldn't expect them to behave this way.


texts: how to add c wire to heat pump ac unit (only have wires with nuts)

texts: I can’t figure out which is the C wire or how to make a C wire and how to connect it to my ecobee 3lite Power extender kit. My old thermostat has wires G,Y,RH, W/E, and O/B plugged in. No "C" wire. It seems like The "G, R, & W" wires coming from the thermostat connect to the three wires that go up into the furnace. All the other wires on that cord going up into the furnace aren't connected to anything.It seems like the Y & O/B cable coming form the thermostat are connected to the grey wire that connects to the outside unit. I cant tell for sure because of all the electrical tape wrapped around those connections.