texts: When adding new light to existing lights, only 1 or the other works

texts:
So I asked a similar question several weeks ago & tried a couple of the ideas put forth, but I could not get all the lights to work properly.  Here's the full story including some additional detail which may or may not matter.
I installed a new light fixture with the intention of not only connecting it to existing lights, but also combining 3 lights spread over 2 light switches into 1 single light switch.
When I removed the 2 light switches, I noticed they were not wired up with 2 separate lines, instead with a single 4-wire line.  So I removed the red wire from both ends & connected the remaining wires, & the lights now light up all at once when turning on the switch.
So then I 1st tried simply connecting the new light to the same light switch as the old lights - in other words 2 black wires on 1 screw, & 2 white wires on the other screw.  But the result was that only the old lights worked when turning the switch on, & when turning the switch off the old lights turned off but the new light turned on.
I then asked a question here:
Added new light to circuit but it turns on when switch is off
1 of the answers suggested following this diagram:

When I did that, the switch turned on only the new light - the other lights remained off.
When I removed the new light & reconnected the old lights, the old lights worked fine again.
I tried a few similar variations but no luck - exact same result.  Tried different light switches too, but same results.
I also tried with a double pole switch - but the new light doesn't work at all - only the old lights worked.
Why does this happen?  What can I do to get it to work?  A couple of pictures showing what I had tried.  The wire going to the top right is connected to the new light.  The thick black wire leads to the old lights.


texts: How hard is it to run forced hot air and baseboard zones off one Trane furnace?

texts:
I have a trane forced hot air HVAC that heats my house. I have a small extension that is cold.  How much work is involved to connect a baseboard zone to the existing forces hot air furnace?  Is it relatively easy or just not possible, or in between?
(Trane model 4TXCD061BC3HCAA)


texts: The right-handed (RH) thread vs the left-handed (LH) thread in screws

texts:
I know that there are screws with these features and know how to distinguish them. Usually there are screws on the right thread.

When and what type of screws should I use?


texts: Insulation options for roof, looking into spray foam or batting

texts:
I have a house built in 1955, it's a ranch. I'm in New York. The attic insulation appears to be pretty sparse. There are floorboards on the floor of the attic, it appears there is some pink fiberglass insulation between the floorboards. There is no insulation on the underside of the roof.

I was looking into insulation options, because:

It definitely feels a little drafty in here.
We're going through oil pretty quickly (we have a 3 year old burner running at 82% efficiency - not sure if the oil should be going this fast).

I was looking into spray foam as an option, but saw some horror stories about jobs gone wrong and the health impact on residents. Is batting insulation worth pursuing? I was hoping if I have it done professionally, then maybe its performance would be comparable to spray foaming the roof.

Cost isn't my primary concern, with spray foam I'm worried about:

Health impact
A bad job, seems like it could ruin the house
Any wiring etc fixed to the walls will get entombed in the spray foam.

Thanks for any opinions on this.


texts: How long should it take to drain a home's water pipes through a faucet?

texts:
Say I shutoff the water at the main of a 2-story house. I open a faucet on the first floor. How long should it take for the water to stop running from that single faucet?

Will ALL the water from the second floor need to be emptied through that faucet before I can begin work on the plumbing? I noticed it takes a minute or two for the faucet to finally stop running. Is this to be expected? I've mostly only worked on 1-story houses where shutting off the main, then opening a fixture will almost stop immediately.


texts: Crossing cold air return ducts with romex

texts:
The house was built in the 50's, and am in Ontario. The house has all copper wiring, but it is older, and has no ground. I am quite competent when it comes to following code, but I have not found a ton of information on the internet about crossing cold air return ducts with wire. I was just hoping to get an electrician's opinion on the best way to do it.

From what I have found in the CEC and internet, you are allowed to cross cold air return ducts as long as you don't run wire along the inside length wise. I am looking to cross the cold air return duct because it spans almost the entire width of the house. These are the kind of ducts where there is just floor joists covered with sheet metal.

Im not looking to use them as a raceway, i just want to run a wire across them so i don't have to go around

I have read one method would be to drill holes on each side of the joist, use EMT conduit to pass the wires through and caulk the outsides to close the duct off to outside air. Back when the house was built, they just drilled holes and ran NM cable across. How would an electrician approach this problem?

Also, this is the way they ran NM cable across the actual air ducts. What do you guys think of this? Seems hackish to me.

Thanks


texts:
Two year old house:   we are getting an occasional sewer odor from the shower drain after using the shower.

It appears that the water is occasionally siphoning out of the trap after using the shower.   This issue occurred under the following conditions: While showering and standing on the shower drain, water builds up on the pan. Upon removing my foot from the shower drain, a large amount of water flows down the drain.  I suspect this is when the seal is lost. I have to pour some water slowly down the drain to re-establish the trap, and then the odor is no longer detected.

There is no visible trap that one can see when you look directly into the drain, like there is in my other stall shower.  The water is directed out the side of the drain, so a short offset must have been installed upon the final install.

Any suggestions???


texts: Leviton Vizia 24 hr timer - How do I install?

texts: I bought a Leviton timer and when I went to install it, I ran into a problem. The outlet box has ONLY three wires - Black, White and a bare copper ground. Looking at the wiring diagram for the Leviton timer, I don't know where the RD wire is supposed to be connected. I connected the Black from the box to the Black on the timer, and similarly White to White on the timer. When switched on, the timer lights up and I can hear a click but the outside light does not turn on. That's because the Red wire from the timer is not connected. Can someone please help me figure this out? I am replacing the currently installed timer with this Leviton one. But the previous timer had only 3 wires - black, white and ground. So I had no problem installing that previous one. Am attaching a pic to show my arrangement.


texts: Drywall taping/floating steps if finish will be skim coating

texts:
I am finishing up a master bath remodel which involved removing some walls, and creating new walls.  I have:

Hung new sheetrock for the new walls
Patched the ceiling where the old walls were with drywall (~4.5" wide strips)
Patched some gaps with hot mud
Taped all the joints and covered with the first layer of all-purpose joint compound.

The next step will be to sand down this first layer as prep for the subsequent layers, repeating until the joints 'disappear'.  For the final finish, we have decided to skim coat as we like the way this worked and looked in our previous bathroom.  My question is: Do I need to do the subsequent (2 or 3) layers of joint and screw-divot feathering if I intend to put 2 or 3 coats on for skimming?  I have not skim-coated a wall before, and I just don't know how much of the surface topography I will be able to hide.

Thanks!


texts:
Just moved in a new house. All heaters have a plank (same width and depth as the heater) 10cm above them. Please see the picture below:

I conjecture it's for preventing some of the heat to go directly up and stay a bit in the room at middle height.

Is that correct?


texts: Can I electrically isolate appliances by putting them on separate legs of a split phase supply?

texts:
In my office, I have a server (powered through a UPS) and a laser printer on the same circuit. When the laser printer turns on, the lights dim and the UPS will briefly switch to battery. This prematurely wears out the battery, and, if there were no UPS, would cause extra wear and tear on the server's power supply.

Can I electrically isolate these two from each other by putting them on separate legs of my house's split-phase power supply? In other words, do loads on one leg of a split-phase power supply affect loads on the other leg?

Possibly related answer here.


texts: Buying a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one: any considerations?

texts:
I'm about to look for a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one. There are already a couple of good questions on thermostat replacement that make the task seem pretty straightforward for anyone who's done a bit of wiring (which I have done). The problem for me is this nagging doubt that, from a wiring perspective, all the thermostats I look at are not equivalent and only some would be able to work with the existing wiring.

So, my question is, as I'm looking for a replacement thermostat, is there anything I need to take into consideration?  Do I need to read the back of the box for any specific statistic?  Do I need to check the existing wiring first (number of wires, voltages, etc.)?


texts: Looking for a match to these cabinet doors

texts:
I got these used from a homeowner who had no information about them.
They have no manufacturer labels hidden in any of the usual places. Do they look familiar to you? I'd like to get more doors to mount on additional boxes I have.


texts: Wiring Baystat240a to Honeywell RTH2510 w/ picture

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I tried to hook up the wires but all the lettered terminals on my old thermostat don't match the letters on the Honeywell thermostat. I have the AC working but I still have three wires left over. I'm not sure what to do with them.
Also note the Baystat has 8 wires.

I know the Brown is not used. I don't know what to do with the black and blue wires.


texts: What is the maximum number of connections to pipes?

texts: Does anyone have a table of the maximum number of connections that drain/vent pipes can have for a given size?


texts: Can standard receptacles be installed downstream of water-resistant GFCI receptacles?

texts: Since “WR” receptacles are required on exterior of residences, can I still install standard receptacles on the load side?


texts: How do you keep bugs/dust out of electrical conduit which terminates in the open?

texts:
Though it isn't specifically stated in the code, I try to protect cable that is installed less than 8 feet from the ground with conduit. This tends to be accepted by inspectors as "protection from physical damage."

If I am going straight up from the electrical panel, into garage rafters, I would like to use a conduit sleeve up to the 8ft mark and then continue on with bare cable. This means the conduit would create a path for critters/dust to enter the panel... is there something I can put over the end of the sleeve?

Thank you!


texts: Can I use a PVC ball valve for the water main at the street?

texts:
I noticed some water seeping up from the ground inline of my water main and to my surprise, under the grass was another valve that I never knew was there. It is PVC and about 3 feet after the main shutoff valve at the street.

It is 1" PVC with a PVC ball valve going to the water meter I assume. The valve has a pinhole leak and I need to replace it. I've replaced many sprinkler pipes before but never anything to do with the water main.

My question is do I repair this line with a normal PVC ball valve and normal PVC glue or do I need to use something else in this situation?


texts: Notches in newel post of new staircase - what are they for, and how can I improve the appearance?

texts:
I have a newly installed winding staircase in my house as part of a loft extension. The newel posts have notches in them, as shown in the pictures.
My first question is: why are the notches there? I’ve not seen this before, and not knowing a name for them means I can’t Google for answers.
The second question is, what can be done to hide them or make them more attractive? I’ve considered using filler or sanding them down. Is there a standard approach to this problem, or is it just a matter of taste?


texts: 2015 Samsung Refrigerator/Freezer keeps tripping circuit

texts: I move my Samsung unit to the garage and plugged it into a receptacle. It has been there for a year with no problem. Two days ago it started tripping the circuit every couple hours. I plugged it into another outlet and it tripped that circuit as well. So I plugged the unit into a surge protector and plug the protector into the original plug outlet. Now it works fine. So what’s the problem - the refrigerator or the outlet or the circuit breaker???? And help or advice would be appreciated


texts: Coast 3-way -- does this conform with Code?

texts:
For those who aren't familiar, the California or Coast 3-way switching arrangement  is a method of wiring a three-way switch circuit that is used when both a switched and an unswitched hot are desired at both ends of the circuit, as seen in this image (taken from the Wikipedia page on three-way switches):

However, it requires two travelers, a hot, a neutral, and an EGC all in the same cable -- and 12/4 or 14/4 NM is a recent invention, as I understand it.  Has 14/4 been around for longer than I think, or were Coast three-ways installed with 14/3 and a separate (or no) neutral running with the travelers?  If the latter is true, wouldn't they violate 300.3(B) (and a few other Code sections) due to the wayward neutral conductor?


texts: How can I remove calcium deposits from a drain?

texts:
My shower drain has 4 plastic "teeth" that stick out into the center of the drain. From this I have found some stalactite calcium columns hanging down to the U bend. I tried to pull one of them up with needle nose pliers but it broke and the others are too far down to get to. This is starting to block the water from draining.

How can I get rid of this calcium build up?

An answer to a question on DIY suggested using white vinegar. I haven't tried that yet. The calcium isn't in the U bend so it won't be sitting in the vinegar if I pour it in there.


texts: Installing a dishwasher where there is no preexisting one

texts:
I want to add a dishwasher for my parent's house but I'm not sure if there's any electrical work that would need to be done prior to starting the plumbing.
There is no outlet under the sink but there is one above the counter directly on top of where the dishwasher would be installed.
I do know that the outlet is on a 15 amp breaker which I assume needs to be changed for the dishwasher.


texts: Heat pump - outside unit fan not running

texts: we recently had an ice storm in the DFW area. Our outside unit is in a shady area that hasn't completely thawed out yet. Therefore, we have significant ice around the unit (and even inside) that hasn't melted. The unit is heating the house just fine but the fan isn't running and frost is building up on the outside coils and on some of the piping inside. What could the problem be?


texts: Is it common to build a mortar pan shower with no waterproof membrane?

texts:
I have found myself in a situation where the contractor installing our walk in shower seems hell bent on installing it without a shower pan liner.

From what I can deduce he's approaching it this way (because he's had to break up the mortar once already).. 1) install the drain, 2) put mortar down almost up to the top of the drain. 3) Tile it 4) water proof it.

Everything I have read about mortar pan showers says you have to install a pan liner so that when (if) the water gets through the tile it will be caught by the liner and drain without causing mold and other problems.

I'm about to ask him to terminate the work but is his approach to installation common?


texts: What does it mean for a halogen globe to strobe and then blow?

texts:
A halogen light globe (bayonet fitting, note this is not a downlight but a traditional globe) in my home started strobing for a while, then it blew. I'm used to incandescent and halogen globes dying quickly once they get the end of their life - they work normally up to the time they blow. Right now my instinct says not to simply replace it (since the replacement will be an LED, which is expensive to replace). There is only one light circuit in the house, and nothing other than this light had problems. I'm in Australia, so the electricity is 240V 50Hz.

So I want to know if this strobing means there may be something else wrong, with the fitting, the wiring, or the switch, or if I should just go ahead and put a new bulb in.


texts: Can I do anything with this gas fireplace? No gas service

texts:
When I bought my house (it was bank owned and empty for 2 years), the home inspector said that we had a gas fireplace insert, and not a "real" wood burning fireplace. We do not have gas service in this neighborhood, nor could we get it if we wanted it, so there is no pilot and no gas line to worry about.

My question is, is it ok to burn wood in this fireplace? There is a flue that goes up through the second floor and out the roof.

There is a small amount of creosote buildup, so I can tell it's been used before but either was installed shortly before the house was siezed by the bank or was not used extensively, however the home inspector told us that we should keep fires "small" since it "probably" couldn't handle the temperatures of burning wood.

We have yet to build a fire in it because the home inspector sounded rather unsure, and we don't know if he was just covering his butt from liability, or if it would actually be dangerous to light a fire. We also have no idea what it means to keep a fire "small" in a fireplace.

I'd really appreciate some guidance on this, I'd like to enjoy my fireplace if it's at all possible! Hopefully without the cost and hassle of installing a tank outside.


texts: Does varnishing floors create a fire hazard?

texts:
I am considering buying a house with new wooden floors. I am not sure yet what type of varnish/sealent is in use. I am concerned that the fire escape route is wooden, and I do not want to increase the long-term flammability of the flooring by varnishing it.
What should I use or avoid?


texts: Can I run stripped Romex/NM through conduit?

texts:
If I have NM cable running into a junction box, can I strip the sheath of the NM cable starting inside the junction box and run the conductors without a sheath through conduit that is connected to the junction box?
I understand that the wiring you'd typically use through conduit is THHN or NM (if you want to use the conduit solely as protection).  But I'd like to be able to take this incoming NM cable and have it's conductors only continue on through conduit along with some other THHN that's coming from another source.
The individual conductors of the NM cable while not labeled can still be traced back to where the sheathing ends, so technically the conductors are still identifiable as to what they are.
If need be, I could splice the NM conductors to THHN wire in the junction box, but I don't see a reason to add a splice where I don't think it's needed.
My reasoning for why I think this should be OK is that if you terminate NM cable in a panel, you typically have a foot or so of the conductors without the sheath and there's nothing identifying those other than tracing it back to the sheath it came from.


texts: Plumbing and septic: bubbling and backing up

texts: My mother lives in a two bedroom trailer with two full bathrooms. It's got a septic tank, but the toilets bubble and back up anytime she uses the dishwasher, washing machine or runs water in the sinks or tubs. Worse, sewage backs up into the tubs and over fills the toilets. What could cause this? Could it be a blocked air vent for the plumbing, a clogged pipe, or a septic problem?


texts:
I suspect I may not be able to prime and paint these walls as is. I have a few sections that still have the original sheetrock paper and some where I had to remove everything up to the brown/torn/rough paper when I was scraping the old paint off.

I did a lot of reading and I am of the opinion that I must apply a thin layer of joint compound to these brown/torn/rough paper spots and then sand them down to a smooth surface. The rest of the walls I should be able to prime and paint after wards.

I would like to ask if I am on the right track or should I be doing something else.


texts: Are prehung doors or door blanks easier to install for a beginner?

texts:
From what I know, prehung doors are a huge pain to install correctly.  But, with door blanks, the hinges aren't routed out.  Which of these methods is best when it comes to interior doors:  using prehung doors or cutting out the hinge patterns on door blanks?

Are there any other ways to replace interior doors?


texts: can an indoor Transfer Switch be used on the other side of the wall as an outdoor service entrance and main panel?

texts:
Can an indoor Transfer Switch be used on the other side of the wall as an outdoor service entrance and main panel?

The concept is: The outdoor service entrance is wired through the wall to the SE rated indoor transfer switch. Then wired through the wall again from the transfer switch to the outdoor main panel.
Is this ok or will I need a UL listed panel to keep outside


texts: How do I determine when the temperature will be safe to pour concrete without additives?

texts:
I'm owner-building a house and need to schedule my contractors, materials, and travel, but since nothing can start until the slab is in place, and the slab is weather sensitive, I need to know how to determine when I can schedule the pour.

The house will have a monolithic slab foundation. From my research it appears that concrete should not be poured when the weather will be below 50F during the curing process, and curing can take 72 hours (3 days).

I'm in the northern part of Georgia (US) and the monthly average temperature for February is is highs in the 50's and lows in the 30's. March is highs in the 60's and lows in the 40's. April has highs in the 70's and lows in the 40's. May has highs in the 80's and lows in the 50's.

I'd like to get started as soon as it is safe, but I don't want to use any additives and don't want to risk any low-temperature related foundation problems.

Do I need to wait until May? Can I sneak it in during February if there's a 3-day warm front? Is there an accurate way to know what the weather will be like months in advance? Or do we just set up the forms, have them inspected and ready to go, and watch the weather until there's a three day continuous window over 50 degrees?


texts: How do I know if my gfci is self-testing?

texts:
Are self-testing gfci mandatory since 2015?
(My house was built in 2015).
Is there a way to tell if my gfci are self-testing? (Without uninstalling preferably as if I take it out of the wall, I might as well replace it.)


texts: Why does my furnace need power resets all the time?

texts: I just installed a smart LUX thermostat and I know it's right but even with my old thermostat it was doing the same thing. My temp will be set at 70 yet its 62 in my house. I have to go to the basement and turn the power to the gas furnace off then on. It kicks on with in a few seconds and runs fine the later in the day I'll have to do it again. Wtf is going on with this thing? It just started doing this with in the last week  it is a heat and air unit that's gas and I know its wilted right because it will work fine once I power cycle it.


texts: I've had a lathe for about a year now (I have the JET 1442 with variable speed) and love it but noticed that I really suck at keeping a nice sharp edge on my tools. I have a small bench grinder I use to sharpen them, but I still just can't seem to get a good edge on my tools. Any tips or advice?


texts: Why does my LED light take several minutes to come on?

texts:
My led ceiling light does not come on straight away after switch on. It can take anything from 5 to 20 mins to illuminate. It does come on eventually. I have two separate switches to turn on this one light in different locations in my lounge ( thought I’d mention this in case it’s relevant).
Thank you for any advice


texts: Listed electric baseboard heaters that permit installation below outlets

texts:
Are there UL-listed electric baseboard heaters that do permit being installed below outlets? The FPN in 210.52:

  Informational Note: Listed baseboard heaters include instructions that may not
  permit their installation below receptacle outlets.

uses the word 'may', which makes me wonder if some baseboard heaters can legitimately be installed under a receptacle and others cannot without violating the listing, or if the FPN's wording is not strong enough and could do with revising for the next Code cycle?


texts: I want a screen door to shut slowly the whole way

texts:
My wife asked me if I could make the screen door shut slowly. It has two pneumatic closers, top and bottom. Google told me to turn the screw on them clockwise. I did. However, the door closes fast until the last 22 degrees or so then closes real slowly. The door has a glass pane currently for winter and the closers are pinned to the outermost hole.

Is this the nature of screen doors closing or are there better pneumatic closers that will close at the same slow speed the whole way?

My door is an Emco by anderson and the serial number appears to be A-915348 . However, I cannot get any results on that on the Anderson window search.


texts: Wiring a 5 ton rooftop unit and a 220 plug

texts: Can I run 3-#8(2 pole 40amp) breaker and 4-#10(2 pole 30amp breaker) in the same pipe


texts: Can I run a water line behind a stack vent?

texts:
I am attempting to move a hose bibb/spigot 10 feet horizontally (from in front of my driveway gate to behind it). The water line comes up from the foundation through a brick exterior wall. My plan was to cut into the drywall on the inside and run a PEX line from the existing copper piping to the new location.

However, between the current bibb location and the new location, there is a large stack vent that runs the entire length of the wall. There does seem to be enough room to run the PEX line behind the stack vent, between it and the exterior brick. Is this permissible/advisable, and if not, is routing the line up into the attic to bypass the vent my best bet?


texts:
The HVAC and control board is a McQuay Mark IV.  I'm not sure if I would like to try and fix this myself yet.  Just trying to figure out the issue before deciding where to go.

Here's the scenario:

Switch thermostat to Cool setting.
Set temperature to 5 degrees below current temperature.
HVAC fan starts to kick in.
15-20 seconds later, AC compressor kicks in.
30-60s after compressor kicks in, the contactor sparks and makes a short 1-2 second popping/buzzing/humming sound, a red LED light flashes once, and the compressor stops.
HVAC fan continues to run.
If left running, the HVAC continues this nonsense and repeats from step 4.

Can anyone help diagnose?

Other things to consider:

A Nest thermostat was installed during winter.  The heating works fine. Tested out the cooling and couldn't remember having any issues then. The installation involved plugging in a blue wire as common for power source, which was spliced from the bigger brown wire that runs to the thermostat.  It was plugged into the C terminal.  Also, the super came by once time when there was no heat coming through and fiddled with the pipes and drained some liquid out before the heat returned.


texts: How should I reattach my patio door weather strip?

texts:
I have a patio door and the weather strip appears to have come off. It's looks like it's designed to snap into place, but I can't figure out how to do it. Any ideas?!

Here's the door with the groove the piece fits into. The groove has some form of gray felt liner.

I can't find information on the manufacturer.


texts: Height Adjustable Kitchen Island on Casters

texts:
I am planning to build a kitchen island with two features

Height adjustable
Movable using casters

The reason for #1 is it can be used as dining table during parties

The reason for #2 is that can be moved to my deck; saving me time arranging foods and cleanup.

I am planning to use electric height adjustable desk frame ( ones used in adjustable height office desks).

Naturally - it won't have any plumbing. For electric - I am planning to install a flush mounted electric outlet into my kitchen floor.

Has anybody had any experience in building something similar ?


texts: Is it possible to earthquake-proof furniture when you have plaster walls?

texts:
Is it possible to earthquake-proof furniture (e.g. tall bookshelves) when you have plaster walls?

I was dissuaded from attaching to studs by an employee at a local hardware shop, while at the same time he sold me the nails/screws required to hang a decently heavy picture frame and a closet rod to the same wall type. I understand the forces are different, but is stud-attaching and 45 degree angles suddenly a waste of time when it comes to earthquake proofing with plaster walls? I'm not even looking for permanent security, just something that at best can just buy a little more time in case of an emergency.


texts:
I have a room in my house with both a dimmer switch and a flip switch. The flip switch controls the ceiling light and fan, and the dimmer controls the outlet by the entrance. It seems now we cannot use the outlet (for the tv) and the light at the same time. Does anyone know what could be happening or how to fix it?

The breakers dont trip when we try to turn on both.


texts: Should I put a moisture barrier between a single ply of pressure treated (PT) plywood and a second non-PT ply when constructing a shed?

texts:
I am building a shed.  The floor consists of 4x4 PT runners, 2x8 PT girders, and 3/4" PT Plywood flooring.
Anytime in the past, when I have laid PT lumber next to non-PT lumber, there is mold/mildew on the non-PT lumber after a very short time.  Also, anything metal seems to rust quicker when on or next to PT lumber. I wanted a heavier duty shed, so I was thinking of adding a second, non-pressure treated layer of plywood on the first. This would strengthen the floor and also separate the PT wood from the contents in my shed.  Is this plan acceptable?  Should I put a moisture barrier between a single ply of pressure treated plywood and a second non-PT ply?


texts: What is like a door, but with a groove and two holes?

texts:
I want to identify the following object left in the house from the previous owners. It looks like a door, but has a long groove, and two round holes. Furthermore, it has half-bullnose edge, and rounded corners. On the back there is a label, which says

Colour: F26
Run & N.C. Prog: 26A4-8 CNC
Slot Location:
C/O: 135016.075
Instance: SPR300720
License Plate: 135016.075
Cut Width: 29.000
Cut Length: 71.938
Smoke Developed Index Over 450

Inspections:
Routing op
Almex/Fritz
Final inspection

According to my measurement the width and length are indeed 29in and 72in respectively, and depth is 1in. I would like to note that our house is in the United States, but the spelling on the label says "colour", British spelling.

The pictures are below:


texts:
I am planning a gazebo which will be positioned against my boundary fence, the overall height of the pitched roof is 3.0m.
The guidelines say I can only have a structure that is 2.5m tall, if I lower the ground level by half a meter so from the original ground level it will only be 2.5m tall is that acceptable?
I have looked but cannot find anything on this.
Paul


texts:
I've been troubleshooting abnormally slow drying on a Frigidaire stacking unit model # GCET1031CS0 (canadian brother to the easier to find online GCET1031FS0).

Thought it might be the problem with the flexible venting that was crushed, but I've replaced it all with solid 4" venting and it for sure blows hard outside so maybe something else is wrong.

I tried an experiment while running it with the door open: I set it to low heat and waited for the element to turn off, which only took about 2 minutes. Then I cranked it up to medium and then to high heat. I was expecting the element to come back on, but it didn't... it stayed off.

I've been trying to understand the wiring diagram for the temperature selector on this model, maybe starting to get it now. The fabric selector switch is shown in the diagram with the switches in the "high heat" position. For "medium heat" they also close 3-4. And for "low heat" instead of 3-4 it's 4-5.  So that switch ultimately only connects the L1 hot line to the "thermostat heater" if it's got low or medium selected. Didn't really click until I was typing it out for this post but I guess the temperature control really works by heating the thermostat itself to make it seem hotter, which means my original experiment was actually completely flawed.

So I planned another quick experiment to test it, to simply measure the time before it switches off in low heat vs high heat setting after cooling in between. I've now completed that experiment and the dryer seems to take a consistent 90 seconds to shut off the heater, regardless of the heat setting that's selected.

Not sure what else could be wrong, pretty sure the unit used to dry faster than it does now. Hit me with any other advice you have. Hoping to troubleshoot this as much as possible without accessing the back of the dryer (it's a pain to disassemble/tight space). I can remove the front panel fairly easily and have a multimeter.


texts: How do I go about converting this antique gas stove to run on propane? Is it possible?


texts: How to calculate sizing for treehouse footing?

texts:
I would like to build a small free-standing treehouse without digging into ground and/or pouring concrete.

Here is what I have in mind:

It is, of course, for kids, so I don't think I need it to be able to support more than ~100kg (220lbs) with the reserve. I made it more wide than tall in order to reduce the instability, but what kind size poles I should need for to support both the overlying deck and house+roofing constructions + kids? [material is most probably pine for everything, as it is the only which is readily available, the blue timber is assumed to be pressure-treated]

The width of the house I had in mind around ~2.5m (8ft).


texts: I am having trouble finding 4x4's for an outdoor project right now. I'd like to mount an outdoor television about 5.5 to 6 feet from the ground. I was planning to use two 4x4x10' pressure treated boards about 3.5 underground in cement. There is no wood available right now. My question is can I use a 4x4x8' board (I have 2 of these already) and attach a 2x4 extension on the bottom end deeper into the cement? Or could I possibly use the the 4x4x8 with 2.25 feet underground? The tv is about 95 pounds, so I worry about the strength of the supports for the tv.


texts: What should I do about multiple feeds on the same light switch?

texts: I have a bank of 6 light switches all single pole that have 3 separate feeds going to them.  2 of the 3 feeds are tied together and are connected to 3 of the switches, requiring that I shut off 2 breakers to kill the power. Is this incorrect? Can I separate the 2 feeds and rewire the switches to be on the separate breakers?


texts: Why won't my Levitron Z-Wave dimmer switch turn the lights off?

texts:
Recently purchased and installed a Z-Wave Dimmer switch which seemed to be an easy installation. However, the only way I can get the light to turn off is to enable the air gap on the switch. If the air gap isn't open, the light is on no matter what.

Neither the physical switch on the dimmer nor turning off the switch off via zwave turns off the light--only the air gap.

White bundle are neutrals.
Blacks are hot.
White/Red combo is to the light.
Green is ground.


texts: TRANE XE70 GAS FURNACE - HSI only works once

texts:
My TRANE XE70 Gas Heater HSI (hot surface igniter) will glow hot once and heater works fine, but then doesn't work anymore on the Thermostat cycle.
I've replaced Flame Sensor and HSI Module.
My White-Rodgers Control Panel flashes Yellow light on boot up, then goes to constant Green light and stays solid green.
I have already purchased and I am going to replace the Control Panel but wonder before I do that if there is something else to check for this intermittent HSI issue ?

Filter is New
Gas Valve is opening on commands from Thermostat
Blower is functioning correctly


texts: shower stem replacement troubleshooting.

texts: I replaced the hot water stem, went to HOME DEPOT and got a replacement. Price Pfizer is the brand according to the HD advisor. However I was wondering if you know or are aware of any tricks with it. As soon as I installed the new one and tested there was no water coming into the shower head, nor hot or cold ? What? yes I asked myself too. So I tested to make sure there was no debris in the line or anything plugging the line, I removed the new hot stem valve and open the cold water and there was water shooting out from the open side, I did the same with the hot water opened the valve on the water heater and there was water coming too. Went back to Home Depot and I had 3 advisors working with me since they never had that situation. Since nobody had a solution they gave a new stem in case it was a bad one. I know it can’t be very high tech. it’s mechanical and very stray forward but still can not make water come out of the head shower, by the way there’s is hot and cold water working out of the faucet sink in the same bathroom and  the rest of the house…..


texts: My water softener has a setting for KCl (Potassium) / NaCl (Sodium), what does it do exactly?

texts:
I'm having some trouble with a relatively new water softener (<2 years). It seems like it is cycling when it should as the salt level is definitely going down, but the water is still hard.

While troubleshooting I came across a toggle setting that lets you choose KCl (Potassium) or NaCl (Sodium). Honestly, I haven't been paying that much attention to what type of salt I put in there, so theoretically I could have mismatched the setting to the salt that I'm using.

My questions:
1) What does that setting do exactly?
2) Could a mismatch be responsible for it not softening the water?

Edit: For clarification, I understand the difference between NaCl and KCl. My question really boils down to how the softener treats them differently when you toggle the switch and what is the impact of having it set incorrectly?


texts: I have a Haier HLP23E washing machine. Last week it stops to spin. After draining all water, instead of start the spin cycle, it stops for a while and then start to pour in the water. I switch off the power, turn it on and start the spin cycle again after all water drained out. This time, I hear humming, just like the motor is spinning but the inner tub doesn't follow. Someone said the motor burned but it works perfectly in washing cycle. It is also suggested that the door switch doesn't work but the washing cycle is working well if the door switch problem shall it have the warning during the washing cycle also, so I don't think the switch is bad. By trying to start the spin cycle several times, I some times hears the noise like a stucking gear. Does any one have any idea how to diagnose the real problem of the washing machine? Thanks.


texts: How can I repair peeling finish on a faucet handle?

texts:
I've got a faucet in my bathroom that has a bit of the finish peeling off after what appears to be some kind of oxidation has built up underneath it. I'd like some suggestions as to how to repair this - the faucet is in otherwise good condition.

Should I try a paint? Some kind of touch-up pen? Also, I suspect I should remove the bit that's peeling and try to remove the powdery, white oxidation prior to any repairs, yes?


texts: Are these gloves washable? If not how do I clean them?


texts: Can I drain a 15'x35' concrete brick patio using a floor drain connected to a 4" PVC pipe?

texts:
I am looking for a solution to drain my patio which is sloped toward one of its corners. The size of the patio is 15'x 35'and the area is Toronto (for rain volume estimation)
I would like to drain my patio using a floor drain (4" diameter) connected to a 4" pipe that will be drained to a dry well that will be ~12' away from the corner in question.

Here is the link to the drain http://www.homedepot.ca/product/abs-4floor-drain/981915

The "standard" solution would be to use to use a catch basin (9"x 9") which looks too large to me
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/9-x-9-inch-vortex-catch-basin-pit-complete-with-concave-grate/412421

Is my solution acceptable?

Edit: this is not a reffering to the load that this drain can take
Here is the setup, the drain will be hidden under a precast concrete slab that is the base for an offset umbrella

My this is the umbrella, attached with concrete anchors to the slab


texts:
Yesterday my contractor (who is in the middle of redoing an upstairs bathroom) had the outflow of his tile saw effectively draining into the space between the floor and the downstairs ceiling.  I only discovered this when I went into the kitchen and saw water dripping (almost flowing) through the tape joints in the ceiling and pooling on the floor.

At the moment I have visible wet areas in two locations in the center of ceiling panels (12"x"12" and 8"x 20") and a lot of visible damage along some of the tape joints (up to 3ft in two locations).  This morning I bought a non-contact moisture meter and mapped out the moisture content across the entire 12x20 kitchen ceiling and discovered significant 8% readings at the point furthest from where the damage started (worst location was where a can-light had been previously removed and plugged).  But there is no visible damage at these locations.  So water has obviously flowed the entire length of the kitchen ceiling.

My contractor's opinion is that the ceiling will dry out and there will be no issue and that there is enough airflow in the ceiling to achieve this naturally.  As such he is doing nothing right now to remediate the damage. (Note that my contractor has not yet seen these moisture readings.)

My concern is that this will take an extended period to dry and in the interim it will be a huge potential breeding ground for mold, especially in the current warm and humid weather where I am.

So:

Is my contractors belief valid?
Is my concern valid?
Are there any other hidden issues that I should be concerned about?

(Note that I am not ignoring the visible damage right now - At least that is something I can see)

FWIW this is a house built in the 1980's and the kitchen ceiling has a slightly textured finish. I have no idea what lies between the upstairs floor and ceiling, but I am guessing not much.  In discussing textured ceilings in general with my contractor he said the easiest thing to do to refinish it is to just layer it with more drywall - which in this case IMHO would be the worst thing to do.


texts: Based on my research with 4-5 yurt companies, a yurt's floor needs to be laid before the yurt is set up. If I put down radiant floor mats, then the flooring, how do I put in the plumbing without damaging the mats?


texts: Water is pouring out of our Aprilaire humidifier

texts: We had an Aprilaire humidifier (600 model) installed in a new house 2.9 years ago.  About a year ago, the humidifier began leaking water all over the basement floor.  This has happened 3 times with 3 visits from a heating a cooling company tech to fix the problem.  We just had the biggest flood yesterday - water was literally pouring out of the I think the front of the humidifier.  I need to know what to ask the h/c technician who will come again to fix the problem.  Doesn't it seem that there is broken part that should be replaced to stop this from happening?  I know nothing about humidifiers and neither does my husband and we're about ready to toss it out.  Any tips would be appreciated.


texts: Wire size. 125 feet underground to 100 amp sub panel

texts:
I have an outbuilding will be 125 feet from panel to panel. Sub panel in put building will be 100 amp. Main panel at 200 amp. Want to have a direct burial line 24 inches deep. Wet ground. What size wire?

Will need two hot, one neutral, one ground.

Load will be lights, fan hot wTervheater on demand for one sink electric wall heater. No more than 60 amps at one time with all running. Thanks


texts:
The white wall is a party wall in a row house - my plan was just to repair the plaster on the wall.  The other wall is an exterior wall that is plaster on brick and mortar. I plan to put up some 2 polyiso board with the wiring underneath as well.  Also I will put a new hardwood floor after it is all done.  Just want to make sure I am not doing a major no no in regards to the wiring.

If not is the some I can do with the wiring before I finish the walls?


texts: I just replaced faucet washers and after reassembly, the tap doesn't work. There is a crack in the handle. Is a replacement handle needed?


texts:
I have Makita Xph07 and it is powerful enough to drill concrete, I want to use longer masonry drill bit, but all the longer bits are for SDS chuck only, is there any adapter that will allow me to use SDS bits on keyless chuck?
all the adapters I saw doing the opposite thing...


texts: Replacing 12V halogen spotlights with MR16 dimmable LEDs in my lounge

texts:
I am trying to replace 12V MR16 halogen spotlights in the ceiling with dimmable MR16 LEDs. The existing halogens do not have a dimmer driver, and each has its own transformer (I'm 90% sure of this). I have a few questions:

Will the MR16 LEDs work just plugging it into the existing transformers?
What sort of a dimmer driver would I need to get to dim the LEDs?

I hope I've explained the scenario sufficiently.


texts: How can I run Ethernet cabling through concrete walls?

texts: I'd like to run CAT6 cable between 3 rooms which are separated by concrete walls. What are my options?  I'm looking for the least intrusive way.


texts:
I have sediment built up in my hot water tank.  I'm trying to flush it, based on instructions I've found on the internet.  I've turned off the tank completely, attached a hose to the faucet drain and shut off the cold water input line.  I've also turned on the hot water in the kitchen sink and bathroom.

But...every time I shut off of the cold water line, within a few seconds, the water stops flowing (both to the kitchen/bathroom and to the drain).  By turning the cold water on and off, I was able to get a fair bit of sediment out, but I don't understand why I can't get all of the water out of the tank?

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here?


texts:
I have 3 faucets, 1 on the main floor, and 2 in a bathroom directly above it, that have very low water pressure only from the hot water side. The bathtub in the same upstairs bathroom has great hot water pressure.
Any idea what would be causing these 3 faucets to all have low hot water pressure?
I have checked the valves attaching the faucet to the water line and they are all turned on.
They are the same brand of faucet, but it seems the likelihood that all of them would fail is low.


texts: What kind of standard switch do I need to replace this dimmer?

texts:
I have a ceiling fan (with light) currently controlled by a dimmer switch that I'd like to replace with a standard switch.

The current wiring is shown in the picture, with two black wires going into the dimmer (and a yellow out to nowhere), two white wires connected to each other inside the box, and a ground wire inside the box not currently connected to anything as far as I can tell.

I'm looking for some advice on what kind of standard switch I need to use to replace it and how to make the connections on the new switch. As far as I know, this is not a 3-way or 4-way setup ... just one switch controls the fan/light unit, but I'm not sure what to do with all the extra wires in the box using a standard 1-way switch.


texts: Will different sized bullet crimps fit together?

texts: Will a male crimp bullet fit into a female crimp bullet if the male bullet is 14/16 AWG and the female bullet is 10/12 AWG.  In other words, is the bullet portion of the bullet crimps the same diameter between gauge sizes.


texts:
I potentially have the problem of building an addition to a house where the bedrock comes up alongside the house. So, basically there is a large rock formation obstructing the construction of the basement for the addition.

What are the options? I assume the normal procedure is to blast the rock, but since it is near the house, is it feasible to do blasting?


texts: Halogen light bulb prong broke off in fixture and can not be removed.  I inserted another bulb with prong in the socket and left other prong out.  The light is now working; however, I need to know if this is safe.


texts: If you have two GFCIs connected in series, which would trip first or both?


texts: Can I use a Sharkbite connector to join copper to rubber pipe?

texts:
Can I use a Sharkbite connector to connect a copper pipe to a rubber tube instead of PVC pipe?  I am trying to make an outdoor drinking fountain. I have run black flexible piping up to a copper T-joint and want to connect the two pieces.

Can I use a SharkBite connector to do this?


texts: Why is my two way dimmer switch not working?

texts:
So I am putting in a dimmer switch, replacing a simple single pole switch.  It is a simple two way, single pole dimmer, should be pretty easy.  The existing switch works fine.  AFter installation, the light is always on, turning the dimmer off, and moving the slider up and down, the light is always on.  Using a voltmeter, I tested the supply and made sure it was hot.  after the switch, the line is always 120v, moving the dimmer and silding it the voltage remains at 120v.

This is where is gets even weirder.  I removed the dimmer, and tested the conductivity.  regardless of the position of the dimmer (off or all the way up), there is not conductivity between the wires (using the beeping mode on the meter).  Using the resistive setting on the meter, it also confirms that there is no conductivity regardless of the slider settings.

So both of these (light always on and no conductivity) would tell me the dimmer is bad, but they are telling me opposite things.  The light always on tell me that the dimmer is shorted and always closed, but the meter measurements tell me that the dimmer is always open.  Weird. How is this possible?

Regardless, this seems like a bad dimmer and I went back to the old switch until I can pick up a new one.

For reference, this is the dimmer:
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/GlyderDimmer/Pages/Overview.aspx


texts: Filling a chain link fence end post with concrete

texts: I have a 6 foot chain link fence. The end posts that come up to my house are set in concrete and do not move at the base but they still tend to wobble a bit near the top because of the height. I would like to know if filling the post up with concrete you be a good way to add more stability.


texts: What is the correct way to wire a 4 prong oven receptacle?

texts:
I think I wired this the right way but I can't find an online reference that I trust enough to flip the breaker back on.

This is how I wired it.

Is this correct?


texts: Screw is turning within wall plug and not tightening

texts:
In attempting to fix a toilet roll holder to a wall in my bathroom, the screw within the wall plug fails to tighten and grip the bracket. It does screw in but doesn't tighten against the wall. There are 2 holes and it's the same for both. I don't believe I over tightened when screwing in.

Both the wall plugs and screws were provided in a kit with the toilet roll holder so I know I haven't picked the wrong size. I also installed this same toilet roll holder in a different bathroom and had no problems.

What is the problem if the screw spins but the wall plug doesn't? Is there a way to resolve this problem without repairing the holes?

The screws are 35mm, the wall plug 25mm and I used a size 6 drill bit.

And yes, I am a complete newbie when it comes to DIY :). Many thanks,


texts: How to hang a chair from the ceiling joists (with attic access)

texts:
I'm planning on hanging a chair from the ceiling. From what I can tell the best method is to add a crosspiece above multiple joists, and mount the chair to that using an eye bolt.

The problem with that is that there is a reasonably large distance between the eye, and the crosspiece.

I can't find a suitable eyebolt (rated to carry a load) that is long enough to cover the space needed. The longest I've found is 225mm overall (so about 207mm ceiling to top of beam). I would need one at least 300mm long overall,

Is this a suitable method, and do eye bolts of the required length exist that will carry the load?


texts: Trying to understand deck plans for pergola post

texts:
The deck plans I want to use has a pergola on the deck. It appears to use the same 6x6 post for both the deck and the pergola as can be seen in the rendering included with the plans:

I can't figure out how to make this work though. If you were to notch the 6x6 you'll have a much weaker post for the pergola above. Looking at the plans just confuses me more because it appears to notch the post for the rim joist as well. You'd be left with a pretty weak point for the pergola above (a 2x4 basically).

Neither the provided front or side elevation diagrams clear things up either:

 Front

 Side

If the pergola and deck posts are actually supposed to be two separate 6x6 pieces what would be the best way to attach the pergola post to the deck?


texts: How do I level my plaster walls and to what level?

texts:
I am remodeling my kitchen and I removed a Formica backsplash from my plaster walls.  In doing so the adhesive used to attach the Formica remained on about 50% of the wall.  On the remainder of the wall the adhesive and the some of the plaster came off with the Formica. I want to replace the Formica with ceramic tile.

What do I use to level the wall where the plaster is missing?
Should I level it to the height of the glue that remained or should I remove the glue?


texts:
I have an odd setup - two dishwashers were in our home when we purchased it a year ago.  Since we have two, we don't run them as often as one might and I noticed that the second one has an accumulation of water and "funk" on the bottom.  From what I can see, the water is pumped all the way out but then comes back into the bottom of the dishwasher after the draining is complete.

I'm guessing that this is due to the plumbing - as you can see in the photos, one dishwasher drains just under the sink and the other (the one with the problem) drains to a second pipe with a second trap (in the back, on the left).  I tried propping up the trap to create a better flow but that didn't solve it.  The drain line does come over from the disposal fairly high up behind the sink.

Adding to the complexity, we'd like to install a disposal if we can fit one - not sure if that impacts things much but thought I'd mention it.


texts: Slight sewage smell in basement and sump pump

texts:
we started noticing an occasional sewage smell in the basement. It comes and goes. I can't figure out its cause or source. I suspect it is somehow tied to the sump pump. The sump pump was replaced by roto rooter around a year ago. When I was there investigating, I moved a small rag and discovered to my surprise a big hole in the cover where the power cord is coming from.

Is this hole suppose to be sealed somehow? If I look inside I can see water. I imagine that could be the source of the smell.


texts: Is there a tool designed for holding multiple electrical wires together to keep them in place for wire nut?

texts:
I am trying to wire three hot wires together with a pigtail which means I need to twist four 14-gage wires into a nut (I am using a tan nut which I believe is suitable for this).

The problem I'm having is holding them all steady so I can twist them together real good before capping them off.  Is there a tool designed for this?  It's a problem I've always had and it seems like someone would have come up with a solution.


texts: Is there a required ceiling height for a garage door opener?

texts:
I recently bought a bank-owned house.  They converted the garage into a living space and I would like to take it back to being a garage.  I was hoping to install a garage door opener for the new door, and I was wondering how tall do the ceilings need to be in the garage in order for a garage door opener?

Currently, the ceiling is 7' 9" with the plaster on it, but I will be gutting the entire thing to redo the electrical.


texts: How can I prevent the water from my neighbor's leaky gutter from entering my basement?

texts:
There is some water leakage in my stone basement on my neighbor's side (which is otherwise, very dry for a stone basement).

As you can see from picture, the side of our house is loose stone (may be difficult to see).  A friend of mine has put a concrete "curb" next to his foundation to cause his neighbor's insufficient gutter's water to flow away from his stone foundation.  I'm guessing that the loose gravel keeps me from using this solution for my problem.

What can I do to my house to resolve the neighbor's 'waterfall gutter' situation in my basement?


texts: Removing plug from receptacle kills whole room circuit

texts: New home blues.  Just bought a house and finding all the bugs.  In my master bedroom there are about 6 plugs on a circuit.  I have a couple lamps, a fan, and my phone charge plugged into the circuit, but into different receptacles.  I noticed that my phone charger was not working (though the lamp in the same receptacle was working), and when I unplugged it, the whole circuit died.  The lamps turned off and the fan stopped. Again, the fan and other lamp were plug into different receptacles.  After a while everything works again, but if I remove a plug from the receptacle the issue returns.  If I jiggle a plug I can see the lamps dim. I don't even know where to begin on trouble shooting this.  I do have a light switch in the room that appears to do nothing.  Was assuming this could control outlets, but doesn't appear to.  Help.


texts: How can I bypass a door open error code on an LG top load washer?

texts:
I have a LG WT7100CW top load washing machine. Right now it won't operate and it keeps throwing up a dE error code. Basically it thinks that door is open/it can't lock the door.

I pulled the door lock electro-mechanical device out, opened it up and didn't see anything wrong with it. Tested a few points on it with the multi-meter and everything read fine. I have a repairman coming out to fix it.

However in the meantime, I've got no way to do laundry and the repairman can't get out here for another week. Which brings me to my question.

Is there anyway to convince the washer to ignore this dE code? Or somehow trick it into thinking the door is closed?


texts: What is a quick and temporary fix for a cracked toilet waste pipe?

texts: Somehow the porcelain waste pipe of the toilet has cracked and has started leaking. We're about to replace the whole bathroom so I just need a quick fix. Will wrapping the crack in duck tape work?


texts:
I would like to use a thermopile to activate a 110 relay to turn on a fan.
What relay would be needed?
Thanks, Michael.


texts: Compressor very noisy for sub-zero freezer section. Ice starting to melt

texts: Any advice how to solve the above issue?


texts: How do I get at the internals of the forward (one pointed down with grey cap) flush port of this cold water inlet valve (Propane instant hot water heater)? Screw holds on blue handle but don't know how to remove handle to possibly access some type of additional release of ball


texts: The last time I used my chainsaw, It kept stalling. I could not keep it running. I had just used a new batch of gasoline with two-stroke engine oil added. As this was the only difference from the previous times I've used the chain saw, I suspect that I either added two much or too little two-stroke engine oil. Which would cause my chain saw tall stall like this, too much two-stroke oil in the gasoline or two little?


texts: Should I remove the 2x4 between the joists of this deck?

texts:
I'm working on replacing the decking on an existing deck. While removing the old decking, I came across something I've not seen before. I've seen decks framed as illustrated below, where members are attached to posts to allow joists to be hung.

(This likely isn't a code approved method of building a deck anymore, but I'm not rebuilding the entire deck to fix it.)

The thing I don't understand, is that they added a 2x4 laid on its face between the two beams.

I'm not sure why they added the 2x4, maybe to stiffen up the "beam", or just as a nailing surface.  Unfortunately, it works great at trapping water under the decking. All the decking that was in this area is rotten, and the whole area is damp (despite not having rain in about a week).

I've never seen a "beam" built in this way, and I'm a bit perplexed. Can I remove the 2x4, so that water is not being trapped?  Is it there for some structural reason?


texts: I have a GFCI circuit in my kitchen.  I believe it is wired correctly but each time I test with a volt tester it trips.  Then nothing in the kitchen works.  can someone help me answer this question?


texts: how to temporarily seal a narrow gap between baseboards and laminate floor?

texts: there is a very narrow (<1/8 in.) gap between the baseboards and the laminate floor in my bathroom, which has been letting in ants from the storage units on the other side of the wall.  is there any good way to seal the gap temporarily until my building is done being treated?  it's an apartment, so i can't do anything too permanent.  caulking?  some kind of tape?  any suggestions are much appreciated.


texts: How to wire a tandem 120 volt, 2 X 15 amp single pole breaker?

texts:
I had a new 100 amp panel installed in my house 10 years ago. There is one plug in the kitchen wired (14/2) to a 120V, tandem 2 x 15 amp breaker (using only one pole). What type of wiring do I use to wire more plugs and use this breaker properly? Most topics are concerning tandem 240V breakers using 12/3 wire.
Thank you!


texts: Do twin-blade circular saws reduce tearout?

texts:
Do twin-blade / Twincutter circular saws produce a more accurate cut than regular circular saws? Do they have less kick-back? Do they reduce the tearout / splintering / chipping at the rear of the cut, compared to regular, single-blade circular saws? I'm looking for real-world experience, as I've seen countless sales-pitches on the matter.

The Twin-Cutter circular saws have two circular saw-blades spinning in opposite directions. It behaves similar to a regular circular saw, except with a slightly wider kerf (since there are two blades), with aparent benefits. Here is a sales pitch video on YouTube

Some additional articles which I find inconclusive:

Genius or Junk? The Dual Saw
Twin-Blade Circular Saws


texts: While trying to turn off the hot water valve, the knob broke off in my hand. I have tried to grip it with channel locks but I cant grab it.


texts: how to flush sediment out of my water pipes

texts: I have no water pressure in any of my water sources. when i first turned them on rust and thick nasty stuff came out. how do i flush them out without replacing the faucet themselves? I already tried letting them run for 20 min as high as they will go and it didn't work. please help.


texts: How can I install/remove ceiling lights from the attic?

texts:
I have a home with vaulted ceilings (20 ft high) and recessed lighting. I have access to the fixtures and wiring from a stand-up attic. I have needed to rent a very high ladder or scaffolding to change bulbs.

Are fixtures available that can be lifted from the attic to replace bulbs?  I'm concerned about the safety of heights - especially one that currently needs replacing that lights the front stoop.  The steps add another 5-6 feet to the drop to a concrete sidewalk or bricked steps!

I've googled several terms and phrases to no avail.  Also, the floor help at Lowes/Home Depot have no suggestions.

If appropriate fixtures are available I will rent scaffolding and do a one-time weekend project to install fixtures that can be lifted from the attic.


texts: The front door of my house (which is rarely ever used) sweats so badly during the winter. At first I thought it was just the glass, but after a closer look it appears that the rescued areas are also sweating. I have not yet installed a storm door, could this be the issue?


texts: Can I use standard electrical cable from a waterproof junction box when replacing an exterior light

texts:
I am replacing a faulty exterior light with a waterproof (IP66) LED one with a PIR sensor.

There is an existing conduit through the wall, but it is a thick stone wall of an outbuilding and the provided cable coming from the light will not go all the way through to the inside.

I plan to use a sealed junction box (also IP66 rated) on the outside and run another cable through the wall from it.

Can I use a normal 3-core electrical cable for this, or should this cable also have a waterproof rating?


texts:
I need to cut some metal fence, and I don't have a reciprocal saw. I've included a picture of the fence to give you an idea of its thickness. Essentially, I'll be cutting the rail off the post. The area where I want to cut is approximately 1"x2".

Is there something for the drill that can replace the reciprocal saw for this type of job?

Thanks.


texts: I have refinished the wood floors in my house with the exception of 2 bedrooms, which share a hallway with wood floors. I am redoing one of the bedrooms, and the company that is doing the floor assured me he could match the stain so it would match my floor in the hallway. I just got home and the stain he used is darker, and he got some outside the bedroom into the hallway floor. It looks sloppy. Had he not got some into the hallway, and just stayed within the bedroom it would be okay. It is drying now, and he is coming back tomorrow to finish up. Should I be worried? Will the stain lighten overnight? Is there a way he can fix it?


texts: How can I find out why my washing machine trips the outlet?

texts:
I was washing a large down comforter in my washing machine and I noticed that the machine was shaking during the spin cycle. I let it go for about 10 minutes and decided to just turn it off, but when I went back out there was water leaking onto the floor (luckily this was outside) and it had just stopped running. The dryer is plugged into the same outlet.

When I have them both plugged in and I hit the reset button it causes the washer to fill with water for about one second and immediately shut off. The dryer won't work at all. When I only have the dryer plugged in the dryer runs fine. So what is wrong with the washer? Can someone help me understand where to go from here?


texts: 8,000 BTU vs. 10,000 BTU Portable A/C Unit - Will the 10,000 BTU unit cool the same room X degrees more if all other variables same the same?

texts:
My 150 square foot bedroom has central air and stays around 80 degrees F (sometimes a few degrees more or less).

8,000 BTU Results

I purchased a Frigidaire 8,000 BTU unit from the Home Depot to cool the room. It is able to keep the room at 68 to 72 degrees F and runs constantly (I have it set to 62 - it occasionally switches to fan only mode to let the compressor rest).

10,000 BTU Question

I would like to cool the room more and remove more humidity. The Home Depot sells the same series model in a 10,000 BTU variation. If I upgrade to 10,000 BTUs will I see a difference? I would like to get the room to stay at 64 to 68 degrees F at 50% or lower relative humidity.

I am guessing that the 10,000 BTU model will also run constantly (occasionally going to fan only mode) as it will never be able to reach the set temperature of 62 - I am fine with this as I am replacing my old unit which did the same thing and lasted for 8 years.

My understanding is that portable air conditioners have overrated BTUs as they are no where as efficient as window units because the compressor is inside the room.


texts:
Just bought a Panasonic LED TV. I want to protect it from voltage fluctuation and power interruption as in my area power goes frequently and my society has power back once power goes, generator on and power comes in 10-15 sec. Should I buy a stabilizer or UPS to protect my TV? I already lost my SONY TV because of power interruption.

Need your expert advice.


texts: I am installing new cabinets, and when I removed the kitchen soffit, I saw one joist with a horizontal crack that goes all the way through the joist and travels about 8 inches down the length from the hanger. Can this be repaired with steel plates? Any help is appreciated.


texts: How can I build a cheap, do-it-yourself dance floor?

texts: I would like to make a cheap DIY dance floor and I attained a roll of 3.5 ft x 6 ft vinyl linoleum for free.  Can I use this in making a dance floor?  Has anyone built their own cheap DIY and what materials did they use?  Has anyone failed at doing this and what should I avoid?  Are there any good guides to doing this on the internet?


texts: Dishwasher and both sinks stink like rotten eggs

texts: I've cleaning everything and nothing works.  I know its unsanitary so I've been washing my dishes by hand.  I think it must be related to a drain line some how. But I don't know what exactly I'm looking at under there.  I do know I don't have an aerator.


texts: 20" long remote plastic breaker handle lever

texts:
Does anyone know what kind of plastic lever that is about 20" long that can turn off or on a breaker handle so in case the breaker arc flashed, the fingers won't be injured? The following happened in 2015 where the electrician fingers were injured when the breaker arc flashed.

So even though I already ordered a $500 arc flash suit, it still can't protect the hands because the incident energy there is too powerful even with gloves (due to melting slags, etc.) Hence want to use long remote plastic lever to turn it off or on. Any ideas?


texts:
I'm finishing my attic and need to wire it (about 8 outlets and 14 LED recessed lights; also a half bath with GFCI outlet, fan, vanity light). I have gotten four electrician bids. Two said my existing 150 amp panel (installed in 1975) does not meet code and I need a heavy up to 200 amps. The third company said I just need a subpanel for the attic lights. The last one said my existing panel is fine.

I have attached photos of my panel. We will be adding two circuits (20 amp an 15 amp). Is it possible to tell from looking 1) whether it has the capacity for these breakers and 2) whether the panel itself meets code? The companies that said it needs to replaced told me that there is something wrong with the way the breakers are arranged.


texts: how to fix jammed integrated dishwasher door?

texts:
It seems something has happened to my dishwasher so I can now only open the door halfway, before it starts jamming.

The wooden facia on the front of the door is unaligned by a centimeter or two, meaning the facia jams against the surrounding cupboard units

If I peek through the gap between the facia and the dishwasher front, I can see some sort of metal bracket, but I dont know how to remove or realign the facia.

Any ideas please? Sorry if its a bad description, its kinda a weird problem which happened while I was away from home for a week


texts: Consistent way to sand and repaint doors?

texts:
I have several closet and bedroom doors that are currently varnished/stained, which I want to sand down and paint a semi-gloss white.

Should I do something other than sanding to remove the varnish, such as some kind of stripping chemicals?
Besides working quickly to ensure the coats are completed before the paint dries too much, is there anything I can do to give the doors a consistent finish?
Should I sand down extra on the edges of the doors to ensure they still fit the frames after painting?


texts:
Is this efflorescence or something else? As you can see I used a power washer on a few bricks and it came off but I am currently looking into what kind of acid I can used to clean the bricks

Thanks


texts: Trying to add an outlet on other side of wall, 3 pairs of white/black wires and ground

texts:
I have a new build house about a year old and I'm trying to add an extra outlet to the other side of the wall in the picture where I already have one outlet.

I am fairly good with electrics, but this one has me baffled.

As you can see from the picture, I have a socket with 3 white and 3 black wires and one ground.

I used a socket tester, pictured below and according to the tester, the socket is "wired correctly".

Upon further study, I removed the white and black wires on the far right (plugged into back of socket, not looped on the screws) and tested for current.  The white wire tests as "hot" and the black wire is neutral. When I plug these into a new outlet and use the tester, this confirms my test as it says "Hot and NEU REV".

So, a fairly simple job becomes an enigma.

Downstream, I use the tester to test the next socket  down the wall.  Now, when I test this socket, it says ground and HOT REV.  This is bad obviously.

However, before I removed the black and white wires on the right, both sockets tested fine and the tester said "Correct wiring".  It's only when I remove these two wires and add them into a new outlet do the problems arise.

This might be too complicated to explain online, but I thought maybe someone might be able to shed some light.


texts: Do shower doors for tiled openings have to fit the width exactly?

texts:
So I just measured my cement board to cement board width and before tiling it is 4'11".  This is due to the pan instructions of putting the pan 'against' the frame.  The pan is cast iron covered in porcelain so I would not have to tile that.

I was thinking I could buy a standard shower door of 5" but the pan instructions screw that up.  Once tile is in, I am guessing 4 foot 10.5 inches is left.

Are there 5' shower doors you just cut down and the glass overlaps more?  What are some suggestions here? Last time I was at home depot, all the doors were of a fixed size.

Thanks.


texts: How can I install crown cornice molding and trim on rounded outside corners?

texts:
We have rounded outside corners throughout our house what is the best approach to installing crown cornice molding?

The baseboards that are currently installed just come to a 90˚ point and the gap is filled in with putty, trim paint, mud, or combination thereof.

Any suggestions for a finely finished look to go with the rounded corners?


texts: Can I use 3/4" gravel to grade land away from my basement wall?

texts:
There's a portion of concrete slab that slopes towards the basement wall of my house. It is winter already so I can't really pour concrete, but I do have several bags of 3/4" gravel (crushed stone) in my backyard.

Can I use it to grade the land away from my basement walls?

Won't it just allow water to go through, making it pointless to use?


texts:
I am looking to retrofit a hydronic radiant heating system to the first (ground floor and basement of my house. For the first floor the plan is to install the system under the subfloor by snaking the tubing between the joists. The basement floor is slab concrete without any insulation below the slab. I don't have any ceiling height to lose so adding insulation does not seem like a good idea. Further, there is a mild moisture issue with the floor so this just seems like a bad idea.

I was thinking of running additional tubing in the ceiling. I am completely unfamiliar with the concept of radiant ceiling heating and not sure if it can be combined with radiant floor heating. Can I essentially run one set of hydronic radiant heat tubing to heat the ceiling of one room and the floor of the room above it.


texts: Should I add a return vent to a pantry that doesn't have an a/c vent?

texts: I recently added a door to close off a walk in pantry room.  It doesn't have an a/c vent to bring cool air into it.  I didn't realize how hot the room would get.  The pantry shares a wall with the a/c inside unit.  Would adding a return air vent in the wall under the a/c unit encourage cool air into the room?  The new air vent would open up into the same area where the other a/c return vents are,  There is about 1.5 inches open at the bottom of the door.  Is that enough?


texts: Building square tapered porch columns that won't rot

texts:
I have 4 columns originally built with 7 ply plywood and some are starting to rot. I've rebuilt one with cedar but am looking for a material that will last even longer without breaking the bank. The existing columns are square tapered and have no texture.

Is there a readily available product out there that would work ?


texts: What is the cause of dishwasher vent leak?

texts:
My dishwasher has a vent in the top of the door which I suppose is opened during the dry cycle to allow steam/moisture to escape. Recently, after running a load of dishes, when I open the door, about 2-3 oz of water leak from the vent and form a puddle on the floor.

What could be causing the leak, and can it be repaired?

This dishwasher has a "quiet" feature which involves a solenoid-operated value (that's too generous a description -- it's more of a flap) which blocks closes off the vent drain to reduce noise during the wash cycle. I removed the door control panel to inspect the valve/vent system. There is no crud clogging the drain, and the solenoid seems to be normally open (to the drain).

(See the part labeled "5" here)


texts: How can I repair this gas leak on my new range? Teflon tape isn't working

texts:
I'm trying to install this GE gas range, so I attached everything and tightened all the nuts. Unfortunately, there's gas leaking at the base of the stove (where the flare connects to the stove).

I first tried without teflon tape at the base, and then I wrapped the flare with some teflon tape, but the leak is still there.

What else can I do? The flare fitting going to the gas range is 1/2".


texts:
I'm having my house (in the UK) rewired and want to install some PIR sensors (link) in a few rooms. Instead of using batteries there's an option to have them permanently powered via USB cable. Is there a device (transformer?) I can have my electrician install to step the mains power down and provide a permanent USB supply?

Thanks!

EDIT:
Maybe something like this is what I'm after? A 240V to 5V Switching Power Converter. Unfortunately there's not much info on it...

EDIT2:
Thanks for the help I've found what I was after: USB Euro Module Charger


texts: Chimney crown repair - cover holes in bricks?

texts:
Getting ready to repair the chimney crown, using this Family Handyman article as a guide.

On our chimney, there is a line of bricks around the crown that have exposed holes in them. The holes are facing upward, and I imagine that they could potentially allow rain to seep in.

Should those holes be covered/plugged at all? Potentially with the chimney crown sealer?


texts: Is it safe to use 1/4 inch tempered glass for dining table top?

texts:
I am planning to buy a tempered glass. it is 66*36*1/4 inch thick. I am planning to put it on a 0.25 inch thick*48 inch*36 inch  metal table that I have. The table is 36 inch high. There wont be any center support.

I have added image of my table. As you can see it has a metal rectangle frame that is 0.25 inch thick

Do you think it is a safe design?


texts: Is the material encasing a steam heating system asbestos? How can i determine this?

texts: I'm looking to purchase a home.  It has a steam heat boiler system, wrapped in a white material that seems "old".  Is it possibly asbestos?  How do I test to see?


texts: Central air compressor fan reflects sunlight into house. What can I do about it?

texts:
I have a new construction and for whatever reason the HVAC installers placed the compressor right in front of a bedroom window.  I don't have any complaints about the noise (it is actually pretty quiet).  Unfortunately, the fan blades reflect sunlight and it produces this annoying strobing effect within the room.

My builder was thinking about spray painting a black matte on the blade, but I'm wondering if there is something more "professional" that they can do to reduce or eliminate the reflection.


texts: Loss of power to part of dual breaker for outside power. Dual breaker stopped working for half last week. Ive tried resetting.


texts:
I recently moved to a new home and I'm a bit confused about the heating system. I seem to have an immersion heater (which uses electricity?), and also something in the kitchen (that uses gas?). I had assumed the one in the kitchen was just for tap water on-demand, but it seems to randomly fire up when no taps are running. Can you please explain how this all fits together? Can you please also explain why the switch I have highlighted appears to be turned off, but everything seems to be working? Thank you.
My current guess is that the main tank is heated up with gas, but has an immersion coil as a backup (which is currently turned off). Am I way off base?
Main tank:

Better view of where the switch goes

Kitchen:


texts: How should I remove closed cell spray foam insulation which has shifted the framing?

texts: We had our basement spray foamed last week and when the foam expanded it pushed out a 2foot section abound an inch from the block wall is there an easy way to remove part of that foam and push the wall back or would I be better off just trimming the board back so I can put up my sheetrock?


texts: What kind of paint should be used to protect gas meter?

texts:
During our home inspection, the inspector mentioned that the gas meter wasn't painted and could be subject to rusting later but he didn't elaborate on what paint to use.  Anyone have suggestions here?

Are there paint types specifically made for this?

-M


texts: Can I put boards over the drywall ceiling

texts: I want to cover the popcorn ceiling. It has been painted and the ceiling is vaulted. I am thinking about putting up some type of boards such as laminated flooring or a stained pine. Will the ceiling hold that much weight


texts: Can we connect 5000kvA TR from 11KV HT line?

texts:
What is the maximum limit can use 11kV/400-230V Transformer (i.e 2000kvA~5000kVA TR) in 11KV HT line ?
What happen, if we connected 5000kVA Transformer from 11KV HT line?
It is allow or not? IF not allow ,why ?
Please advise me.
Thank you all.


texts: Should I powerwash and waterseal a pressure treated deck?

texts: Is there any maintenance that I should be doing such as yearly power-washing and water-sealing for a pressure treated deck?


texts:
Today, we got the keys to our new house. I was taking meter readings, when I spotted a note directing me to a second meter. This is located at the other end of the house, in it's own cupboard, with it's own consumer board. After some enquirers, I have ascertained that both are active, although oddly being supplied by two different companies.
It is a reasonably old house (even by UK standards) and was at some point actually two small cottages, which were knocked through at some point in it's history. This, combined with the locations of the meters, makes me suspect that the two original houses may retain distinct, isolated, electrical systems.
Some questions:

Is my hunch about the two halves of the house likely to be correct? Or is there another explanation?
Are there any advantages/disadvantages to this sort of arrangement?
If we wanted to, how much work would it be to get to something simpler? E.g. going to a single meter.
Is there any good reason to have the two meters fed by different suppliers?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Can I use a heat gun or hair dryer to remove plastic from my steel door

texts: I failed to remove the plastic from my steel door and now I am unable to peel it off. Can I use a heat gun or hair dryer to remove it, or is there a better way? I have tried several different things, but none seem to work.


texts:
Bought a receptacle tester, most outlets are good, not sure how to read the outlets that have switches.

Outlet 1: tester reads good, when I turn the switch off it reads open ground.

Outlet 2: tester reads open ground, changes to open hot when I turn switch off.

What should it say when I turn the switch off?


texts: Is my plan for moving return duct a few inches ok?

texts:
Below is my ac unit and the return duct that connects to the blower. I currently slide my 1-inch filter under that pvc pipe that's inside the furnace. PVC is in the way and there is no L-shape latch in the back of the furnace for the filter to hold, its only only in the front. So the filter gets sucked towards the blower. I decided to install 5" media air box outside between the furnace and return duct in the picture where 1 arrow is pointing.

Problem is, the return duct that's marked as 2 in the picture is not coming down straight, it leans towards the right which is why they installed the green flex duct or whatever its called and I won't be able to install the 5" rack like this because there will be some space in between. I have move the return duct to the right by couple of inches, Can I simply remove the duct and align it then cut the top duct by few inches and cover the old space?

I will also move the condensate pump to the left of the furnace first.

Edit: Added more pictures

In pictures you can't really tell clearly but that long duct is not straight. It needs to be moved 1-2 inches to the right to make it straight.


texts: How do I replace the water supply line that appears to be built in to the shutoff valve?

texts:
We're preparing to replace our bathroom faucet. We were able to easily disconnect the cold water supply line from the shutoff valve to the faucet by simply loosening the nuts holding it in place. However, when we went to disconnect the hot water supply line, we see that it appears to be built in to the water shut-off valve. We are both new to home improvement, but have done a lot of research and haven't come across anything like this before. What IS this? Is our only option to replace the water shut-off valve entirely?

(Our new faucet has 3/8" water supply lines, otherwise we could reuse the existing supply lines and not worry about the weird shut-off valve)


texts: Adding second ground rod. Is this an acceptable way of bonding?

texts:
I recently found out that our sole ground rod is only 4 feet long. That said, I want to add a properly-sized ground rod to "improve" the grounding system and hopefully comply properly with the electrical code.

Our current electrical system is the one in blue, where M is the meter, B is the breaker. Both are grounded via #8 wires connected to the ground rod. The ground bus bar in the main panel is also connected to the ground rod via a #8 wire.

The existing ground rod is in front of the house. However, there isn't much space in front to place another rod there. That said, I'm planning on putting the additional rod at the back of the house. In effect, the two rods will be around 20 meters apart.

Now, the question is: Can I just run a #8 or #6 wire from the 8-ft ground rod back to the Main Panel and just bond it to the ground bus bar, in effect bonding the two ground rods? Or do I need to run a separate wire all the way from the 8-ft rod to the 4-ft rod? Note that the Main Panel will be closer to the 8-ft rod. They will be just 7-8 meters apart.


texts: Can I widen the hole with a drill to straighten the handle?

texts:
I messed up the measurements of one of the IKEA kitchen handles. 32mm Vs 29mm to the edge, so 3mm off.
Do you think I can drill to widen one hole left 1.5mm and the other hole right by 1.5mm and then tighten it straight without exposing the mess from the front or back? Is a 3mm move too much?
I'm willing to accept a half way house and maybe trim the discrepancy from 3mm to 1.5mm etc
If not what do you suggest?
Fill and re-drill?


texts: What can I do about a toilet flange that is 1/4" below the floor

texts: My toilet leaks after i flush and doesn't seal properly at all…tried different kind of wax rings and aaah .. no solution ..cause leak and damage to downstairs ceiling ..better said it leaks and the elbow joint , if that helps


texts: I have been looking at different Makita tools and I can see what seems to be two different product lines but I fail to find any information online that would suggest what is the actual differences between the models. For example there are XMT and DTM models of multitools and all I can see is that both have variable speed control dial (6, 000 to 20, 000 OPM) and that's it. The price ranges differ quite a lot while the DTMs are significantly cheaper. Can anyone shed some light and point to any actual differences between those model lines?


texts: I have been using a three prong adaptor on my microwave.  The adaptor caught on fire when the microwave was not being used, though I had used it approx. 5 minutes earlier.  There's no sign of damage behind the cover plate, and a lamp works when plugged in.  The microwave plug is slightly melted along one edge, next to the old adaptor but otherwise looks OK.  What should I check before just plugging back in with a new adaptor?


texts: Figure out what outlets belong to what breakers

texts:
So I live in a dorm room at a college, and I am looking into getting 2 1050w ASIC miners for mining Litecoin.
My issue is, that as far as I know, you can't pull +/-3000 watts from one breaker. (2 miners = 1050w, + desktop computer 500w, + laptop 300w+ fan/chargers/etc) (I live in Canada btw, so you know what electrical standards we use)
I am trying to see if there is a way to figure out what outlets are hooked to different breakers. I know there are devices that allow you to send a signal to the breaker, but I don't have access to the breaker, so I'm hoping there's a device where I can plug it into one outlet, and check all the other outlets to see if the signal is coming through.
As far as I know, in our dorm we would have multiple breakers, so I'm trying to figure out where they are, so I can distribute the power usage between them. I'm assuming there is a separate breaker for the kitchen, bedroom #1 and bedroom #2.
Anyone know of a device that will help me figure this out? Thanks.


texts: When I run a device with a 15 amp motor, why doesn't the 15 amp breaker trip when I flip on a light on the same circuit?

texts:
If I turn on a light bulb while running a 15 amp saw, the breaker is likely to not trip despite pulling more than 15 amps (eg. 15.54 amps is being pulled with a 60 watt bulb).

One of three things is happening is my guess, either:

a) The 15 amp motors and claimed current used is overstated and I'm not really using more than 15 amps or

b) Breakers actually trip beyond their 15 amps rating. Perhaps something like 17 amps of current will actually make it trip?

c) The 15 amp motor w/ light bulb actually WILL trip the breaker, but it's just going to take "a while" for the bimetal in the breaker to heat up enough to trip.


texts: Any structural issues when creating an 11" diameter hole in brick wall?

texts:
I'd like to install an external blower for a range hood. Spec says an 11" diameter. I have a 12" thick brick wall. I'm wondering if there are any structural issues with making a hole that big.

The wall is the exterior kitchen wall with no structure above it (ie, just the roof).


texts: Wiring a timed outside light using a socket

texts:
I wish to install an outside light. I want to be able to use a plug in timer so i can adjust easily.
The nearest wiring is the lighting circuit. Can i add a socket to this ?


texts: Clogged tub drain (clogged with chopped fiberglass)

texts:
I build fiberglass boats for a living and it gets pretty messy. My bath tub drain has become clogged with fiberglass and has a slow drain. Any recommendations?
If it helps the catalyst is mekp9 (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide)


texts: Protect screws in joint and make it look nicer?

texts:
So this is what the joint looks like.

It's solid, but as you can see, the screws are exposed so they'll be rusting pretty soon. Also, the joint looks horrible. It's PT wood.

What can I buy to make it look nicer, and the same time, strengthen it?


texts:
This started about 2 months ago, and now whenever I turn on any faucet in house (on low), there's a whistling sound.
The whistling sound goes away if I increase the water flow.
Any suggestions on how to fix this?


texts: Do I need to use silicon seal (caulk) and a sealant strip around the base of my shower

texts:
The seal around the inside of the shower cubicle (standard single person mass produced unit) had rotten (it's about 15 years old) so I ripped it out, cleaned up the surfaces and am redoing it. The stuff I removed included silicon caulking underneath rubber sealant strips (which could have been added at a later date than the original install, I'm not sure) and I'm wondering if part of the problem was that water got caught between the two layers.

I have run caulk, while standing in the shower to help ensure the gap between base and screens is filled, and have a pretty good bead of sealant all around the shower now, but wondering if I should add the sealant strip as well. It looks to me like the caulk is enough.

Any guidance on this?


texts: Proper way to level a shed foundation on concrete patio

texts:
I am building a shed from a kit.  The floor kit has a pretty standard 8x12 layout, but the instructions state that it should be leveled by setting it on 3 parallel treated 4x4s (runners), and that the 4x4s should be leveled by putting supports under the 4x4s about 4' apart.

The sample they show illustrates supporting the 4x4s setting on dirt, and they suggest stone blocks on the ground, 4 inch wood blocks above any blocks, then a bit of asphalt shingle, and finally the runners sit on the shingles.

I'm setting the deck on the concrete patio, shown here.  The low point is the top left, high point bottom right.  We do get water pooling on the patio in the rain but it does drain off within 24 hours.

When setting the treated runners on concrete should I still lift them off the concrete with blocks?  Can I just put pieces of shingle under them at the high point and use wood blocks + shingle to lift the other points to be level?


texts: Small post and beam project sanity check

texts:
I'm planning to build a canoe rack out out of PT 4x4s, post and beam style. The goal is mostly to learn to build something that way.

I've designed it in SketchUp, below. Everything is a 4x4. The pegs are 3/4" in the design but I'm wondering if 5/8" wouldn't be plenty strong enough.

Since I don't have a clue what I'm doing, I hope somebody can tell me what the worst problems are with this design. Thanks! Please let me know if there's any additional information that I can provide.


texts: Dusk to Dawn not enough light to turn off

texts:
I installed a dusk to dawn sensor on my porch light but the porch overhang and surrounding trees prevent enough light during the day to turn it off.

Does anyone know if there is some kind of extender or even a base with a timer similar to what you use indoors where I can specify the time?

Thanks


texts: Greek-Symbol Theta on Stainless-Steel Nut?

texts:
I am trying to understand everything I can about some stainless-steel nuts that I have come across. I have already researched and found information on the characters at the bottom of each nut, but I cannot find information on the symbol that looks like Theta at the top. So, my question is,

What does the ~Theta symbol mean on these stainless-steel nuts?


texts: Is moving a desk upstairs/downstairs for comfort twice a year a sign of poor insulation?

texts:
In a side-split on three levels, four including the basement, the heating and cooling unit is almost new (2 years), and the heating/cooling unit was only available at 35% more cubic feet capacity than the house. Hence it should be quite easy for it to handle the volume of air inside.

Both summer and winter I keep the air ciculation turning on perpetually, whether the heating and cooling unit is on or off.

The thermostat is on the main level, set to about 68F/20C in the winter and a little more, 70F/21C, in the summer.

Despite all these factors, each year in May and September I find it necessary to move my desk, in May downstairs and in September back upstairs. Otherwise the temperature is too uncomfortable for an extended sit-at-the-desk session. I found it easiest to just buy a second desk, and move everything else (monitor, monitor arm, laptop, paraphernalia, desk chair).

Is this:

Normal or near-normal. Regardless of the roof and wall insulation, the rooms upstairs will have to heat up if the house (detached) is baked throughout the day from the sun. In the summer the temperature outside is regularly 80F/28C and sunny.
Not normal. The description above indicates that the walls and especially the attic are not sufficiently insulated.

The bedrooms are upstairs, but the extra heat is not an issue, because the temperature outside is anyway cooler at night.

In this question I'm not even seeking a solution yet (there is already a huge leafy tree on the east side and another, even larger, on the west side). I'm first trying to understand what is to be reasonably expected for comfort inside at all levels.

Quantifying (following isherwood's comment):

I'm asking for a round-the-year issue, but mentioning specific temperatures may help. In this late May, and while the temperature outside is a pleasant 65F/19C, I haven't even switched on the A/C unit yet. Despite that, the upper southwest room (used as winter office) reached 78F/25.5C yesterday. The air circulation is on. Is this heat level normal? Could a room that's baked on two sides for the whole afternoon be expected to remain cooler? (Notice that it became much warmer than the outside.)