texts: How can I power a vanity light from a ceiling light switch circuit?

texts:
I have power coming into a LED can light then to a regular bulb light then to a double switch (single gang). Then trying to use the second switch to power two other vanity lights.
How is this wired?


texts: Can I plumb this restaurant sink this way?

texts:
Came across a 3 basin restaurant style sink that I am going to use in my basement (homebrewing!).

I'm using CPVC to connect to this faucet but there was originally a short threaded black pipe nipple with washers that went into the faucet from the back side and then a female CPVC connection to the water supply. The black nipples were solid gunk & rust inside so I removed them.

Instead of going back with another black pipe connection, can I not just use  CPVC male adapters straight into the back of the faucet?..is CPVC strong enough to make this connection and hold the faucet to the sink? It seems to hold (see pictures) but I didn't tighten it down very far, only did this as a test.  It seems like there should be a locknut on the back side to hold the
faucet in place and then the threaded plumbing fitting, but no one at the home center could help me find anything like this...should there be one?


texts: Using 10/2 and/or 8/2 for a 240 only 3-prong

texts:
I have 2 dedicated circuits:

40 amp water heater
30 amp electric range

Both have 2 hots and a neutral grounded at the panel. One runs through a junction box where the wires are connected and continue to the water heater, the result of a previous revision. All wires are individually insulated and encased in EMT mounted to the overhead joists in the basement.
In order to add a ceiling, I replaced the "junction box to water heater" and "panel to range" runs
with FMT in the joists with 8/2 and 10/2 NM-B. The white and black wires are used for the hot and the uninsulated ground for the neutral. I used extra insulation from the stripped wires to cover the exposed tail portion of the ground so there would be no contact with a box or other hot, but it's otherwise still a bare ground inside the sheathing.
The dryer plug is an old 50-amp style (no ground), and the water heater connect directly to the 2 hots and neutral, no ground either.
What, if anything, is wrong with using the bare ground as the neutral? I've seen mentions of insulation being required in the NEC and elsewhere but am unclear on whether it applies or what the real risk is here.


texts: I have a car EV charger with a NEMA 6-20 plug and a different 220v receptacle -- adapter?

texts:
I bought a 220V car EV charger with what I understand is a NEMA 6-20 plug:

But the socket is some other 220V that I can't find the specifications for:

Is there an adapter I can get to use this plug for this socket or do I need to get the socket replaced?

Thanks in advance for any guidance ... I'm a software guy and new to 220V nuances.


texts: How should I fill 1/8" nail holes in a hardwood floor?

texts:
After an anti-squeak effort, we've got a bunch of 1/8" holes in the hardwood floor.  These are aligned with the original nail holes, so they will blend in if darker than the wood.

What putty should we use?  After that do we apply a little dot of polyurethane? Sand? I spent some time at the hardware store, but none of the putty or products mentioned floors as an application.  The existing floor appears to be a semi-gloss, but I can't be sure (it was refinished prior to our home purchase, but the contractors did not leave any stain or supplies).  I'm more concerned about feathering the poly layer, compared to matching the color.

My floors have 8mm of hardwood, 1mm of paper spacer, on top of 18mm of old growth Douglass Fir boards.  The house was built in 1938, and everything is obviously stabilized from a moisture point of view.  The floors bow slightly as the beams below are overspanned.


texts: What do I use to cover an insulation wrapped duct? (Silver foil wrap?)

texts: I was looking for silver foil to cover the heating duct insulation wrap. What is it called?


texts: How to place a bathroom vent fan in a vaulted/cathedral ceiling?

texts:
I'm planning a renovation where the ceiling over the shower is vaulted to the rafters (see elevation below). Where is the optimal or recommended place to put a vent fan in this scenario? The rafters will be filled with closed cell foam.

The area on the top left side of the wall is attic space (where the current fan -pre-renovation- is already ducted). Is it reasonable to mount the fan in that, i.e. on its side? If I do, it seems like there will always be some small amount of space up to the peak that will be above the fan's intake - problem?

Is the best case just to build out a chase in the peak to flatten it out just enough to mount the fan unit in the expected horizontal configuration?


texts: Running circuit and generator hookup in same conduit?

texts:
I need to add both a 120v (probably 20a) circuit as well as generator hookup (120v 30a) to my backyard. The 120v circuit will be used for landscape lighting, that sort of thing. The generator hookup will be wired to a weatherproof outlet at the back of house, and a manual transfer switch (adjacent to the main 200a load center) in the garage to run stuff like a fridge, lights, select outlets, etc..

House is block construction on stem wall, so I will be surface mounting sch80 conduit on the exterior, run is approx 60-70 feet. With conduit derating I'm looking at probably 6AWG for the generator hookup. While I only have a 120v genset now, I was going to future proof and run 3 conductors for when I go 240v. Of course any ampacity for 120v will be plenty for 240v. The other circuit is probably going to be 10 or 12AWG copper.

My question is can I share the ground between these or will that be unsafe from a line/generator isolation standpoint? Im assuming sharing neutrals is big no-no. Is running in the same conduit problematic? I assume if sharing ground is fine, then same conduit is okay.

Any other wisdom also appreciated.

NB - I am well aware of the dangers of generators to linespeople, and it will be appropriately permitted/inspected.

Edit: if I go 240, it would be to run AC. I have a 2 ton unit.

Generator only would be for emergencies like hurricanes (I live in FL), so don't need an automatic unit.

I'm down with better quality components, what do you suggest I look at?

Thanks.


texts: upgrade circulator pump in closed hot water heating system?

texts:
boiler is Weil McLain Gold CGa.

current circ pump is Taco 007-F5, installed on return side, pumping water down, and into the boiler.

I'm pretty sure this pump is under-sized, as the specs list a max head of 10 feet, and this system is used for heating the second floor unit of a 2-unit apartment. vertical distance from boiler to 2nd floor is wall over 10 feet, more like 16 feet.  the apt has baseboard elements, but the temp in the unit never gets above 62-65. boiler temp is set at 220.

I'm looking to replace the 007-F5 with a Taco 009-F5, with a listed max head of 35ft. BUT, the 009 has a max flow of 10 GPM, compared to the 007's 23 GPM.  Does this "upgrade" make sense??

Thanks in advance.

.jim.


texts: A handyman abandoned his tools at our place, won't answer calls

texts:
I am not sure if this is the right place for this question, but a handyman we hired (Massachusetts area) has left his tools, including a blow torch, at our place after a botched bathroom tub repair. His tools have been at our house for over a month now, and he won't pick up calls or answer messages anymore. We were worried he might have COVID or was maybe unwell- he did pick up the phone once, he said he would be collecting his tools soon. That was three weeks ago.
Maybe just being paranoid, but first: is there any danger of his blow torch exploding for any reason? We have just left all his things untouched, so it's just sitting there in his tool bag without any chance (hopefully) of getting direct heat or getting punctured. We are pretty sure he was not licensed to use that blow torch as he is a handyman, and not a licensed plumber.
Secondly: I am just perplexed by this mystery-why has this man left the tools of his trade at our place for over a month? Are the tools implicated in a crime or something? What is the recourse for my family here? Is he waiting for us to get tired, throw them out and bill us for new ones? Anyone deal with something like this?


texts:
I have trouble replacing this kind of P trap as shown in the Figure below.

Different from a normal P trap (e.g., here https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7MWn.jpg ), threre is no such "wrench stuff".

I marked the joints in the figure with red color. The joints can be rotated, but I just can't remove it. Or do I just need more muscle power to remove it by force?

So how to uninstall this P trap?


texts: Controlling separate heat and AC devices from a single thermostat

texts:
I have hydronic radiator heat powered by a gas furnace situated in one mechanical room of my house and a currently being installed central AC whose air handler is situated in another mechanical room (separate locations).

I would like to control both of these units from a single thermostat with separate thermostat wires going from the thermostat to each respective unit.

Is this possible?  Do I need a special thermostat or can any modern thermostat support this split functionality?
Product recommendations?


texts: Furnace and Water Heater Ventilation pipe

texts:
I have a home that was built in 1924, the pipe that vents my furnace and water heater is green and it is located in my chimney.

The top of the chimney is open in my attic, you can see the green ventilation pipe that runs out of my roof.

Should the green pipe be insulated in my attic?

Should there be something put over the top of the chimney?


texts: Help with box volume/fill for junction box provided with LED recessed light

texts:
I recently purchased and in the process of installing a series of 6 recessed lights. I've replace some lights in the past, but this is my first real electrical installation (i.e. novice alert).

I ended up going with these slim LEDs, as I don't have the clearance for normal or even shallow cans. However, after having a quick chat with a local inspector, he warned me that some of these newer lights don't come with junction boxes that are considered code compliant for pass through. In doing my best to stay to code, I'm attempting to measure the box volume and fill.

The available space in the j-box (I'm assuming I can't include the sealed portion), measures out as 3.75x1.75x1.25=~8.2 cubic inches. Right now, I have two 14.2 NM coming into the box (one to provide power, the other to relay to the next light). If I'm understanding things correctly, that alone counts as 5 conductors which would require 10 cu.in. This seems to mean that my inspector's warning was correct.

I'm not sure if I should include in the conductors count, the provided cables that lead into the sealed part of the j-box. If I did, that would add another 2 conducters. Wouldn't that mean that the box is too small even for even a single 14.2 NM cable?!

My main question is if I'm calculating things correctly here, and if so, what are my options at this point to remain code compliant?

Bonus question. Per 334.30(B), I've found that I do not have to staple my wiring every 4.5ft because it is existing construction. Does this also imply that I do not need to staple it from 12in from the box (assuming it's clamped to the box)?


texts:
I am selling my house. Although my basement does not flood we had a pipe break and it ruined the floors, walls etc. We have the structure up to install drywall or paneling on the walls. Which do you recommend and why.
Thank You
Regina Miller


texts: What makes a furnace pilot valve whistle?

texts:
I have a furnace that started whistling, recently.

I have read that gas pressure changes can cause this.  Others have remarked how seasonal gas changes can lead to a properly-adjusted furnace to suddenly operate differently.

I have adjusted the pilot adjustment screw, in an attempt to change the amount of gas flowing through the pilot.  180 degrees turn in either direction did not cause any observable change in the gas flow (size of he flame).  The 'whistling' persisted evenly through that change.

What else can cause a pilot to whistle?  Or, perhaps, is the matter likely that I need to adjust the pilot screw farther than I did?


texts: How to attach ground wire for ceiling fixture, if mounting bracket does not have a green ground screw, and no ground wire coming from junction box?

texts:
My ceiling metal junction box has 2 white wires(twisted together) and 1 black wire. No copper or ground wire inside that I can see?  The new fixture has a black, white and green/yellow ground wire.  The provided new metal mounting strap bracket does not have a green ground screw.
What can I attach the green/yellow ground wire from the fixture to??


texts:
The window I just received in special order came with a 5/8" jamb. I'm really upset at that awkward dimension because it makes it difficult to extend it with regular 1xX lumber (actual thickness 3/4").

How should I go about extending it assuming I don't have access to a table planer? I'm thinking to use 1xX and then fill the recession on the window side using wood filler. It's not elegant. Do you have any better ideas?

As a bonus, can anybody actually justify the nonstandard choice of lumber on the factory side? I'm very frustrated.


texts: Running power to garage. Can't find THWN. Is THHN rated for Wet Locations the same thing?

texts:
I am reading that wire inside Schedule 40 PVC conduit running underground must be THWN, however it is proving very hard to find at local big box stores.
Something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-10-Black-Stranded-CU-THHN-Wire-22973284/204812489 does not mention THWN, but in the Specs you see that it is rated for wet locations. Is this what I need? Why can't they just add  THWN on the label? What am I missing?
Thanks in advance!


texts: Replacing electrical wiring in masonry walls

texts: An existing fully grouted 8" masonry wall has electrical wiring. The structure is more than 15 years old. Need to replace/upgrade the wiring to receptacles. Can I pull out the existing wires and replace with upgraded electrical wiring without compromising the walls.


texts: Electrical wiring question for instant water heater

texts:
I am installing a point of use Chronomite SR-20L/240 HTR 240-Volt 20-Amp SR Series Instant-Flow Low Flow Tankless Water Heater. https://www.amazon.com/Chronomite-SR-20L-240-HTR-Instant-Flow/dp/B001B1KGUQ

I have called the company and they tell me that I need two pole 240v, 20  or 30 amp breaker.  They said that it is wired with two hot and one ground 10 gauge wire.  This is a new install for a bathroom I am building in my garage.  I am having a problems finding romex type wire that has two black (hot) wires or a black and a red (hot) wire and a ground wire. They told me if I used 10/3 wire with a ground to cap the neutral wire. I need about 35 feet of  wire.

My concern is with my inspection and having the proper wiring colors for my hot wires.  If I  get 10/2 with a ground, I  will have a hot,neutral and a ground, but the neutral will be white.  Please advise what the name of the particular wiring I need is called.... that has a black,red and a ground wire.  Thanks!


texts:
I recently had a wooden privacy fence put in between my yard and the neighborhood park. It uses eight foot slats (with six foot, a lot of pedestrians in the park could still see right into my kitchen window). The gate is about five feet wide.

My preference is to have the gate self closing, so if someone (child or adult) goes out into the park, it shuts itself and latches securely, instead of leaving it up to people to be attentive enough to shut the gate behind them and make sure it latches.

I've had a hard time finding a suitable closing mechanism. I tried one option from Amazon (similar to the Kant Slam, but a different brand), which was pitifully weak. I tried using three "heavy duty" self closing hinges from Home Depot--the springs within broke within days.

It doesn't seem like gate closers should be that rare. I've found a few hydraulic gate closers--for about $500 each, which just seems ridiculous.

All I need is something like a regular door closer, but oriented differently so it could be mounted beside a gate, instead of over a door.

Any suggestions?


texts: News Exterior Transfer Switch Location and Clearance

texts:
I finally got around to figure out the spot for a new transfer switch which I acquired some time ago, there aren't any choices since the transfer switch needs to be close to the meter. It is a small 5000 watts transfer switch (comes with relatives short wires), and it needs to be installed outside, and the only location outside would be on the same wall (exterior siding) whereon the circuit breaker panel hangs inside (interior of the premises). But then this wall (shown in the pic) is narrow and is sort of cramped and crammed with wires and stuff (socket meter nearby, conduits going up and down). The transfer switch in this case is a metal box hanging up on the wood sidings (the circuit breaker panel is right behind it. But I am not sure if this spot is ok, and what would be the requirement of clearances if any.

The area marked with an 'X' indicates the non-drilling area (breaker box present on the other side). The areas marked with a rectangle shows area passive to be drilled in order for conduit and wire to travel to the other side and enter the circuit breaker panel.

================ ADDENDUM =========== 02/13/2016

I moved the transfer switch box further to the right (complying with the clearance requirements), and used ¾ PVC conduit which then travel sideways few inches from the transfer switch box towards the left and enters the inside of the room by means of a close 90 deg elbow through a bored hole in the siding. Inside the conduit protruding from the bored hole has yet another close 90 elbow which will then with a small section of conduit enter the breaker panel using a knockout on its side. The pics below depict the inside and outside scenarios:

The pic of the outside also shows a ¾ underground pvc conduit along with wires coming from garage subpanel. Originally the pvc conduit protruding from the ground is ¾,  but in order to make it easy to fish the large caliber aluminum wires from the ground conduit to the circuit breaker panel inside I decided to transition to 1" pvc conduit. Initially I simply put an adapter/fitting to transition, but was told that would not be acceptable (it is not clear why though) to simply use an adapter and that I would have to use an electrical box (in this case a L box) to transition. Using a L-Box also meant that I could not use the 45 degrees elbow initially planned to exit the ground, so aesthetically it does not look as intended, but hopefully it is acceptable. Any insight about the this approach or any possible discrepancy would be very welcomed.


texts: Drilling into stone wall with plaster on top

texts:
I'm trying to hang a curtain rod. The wall is irregular stone, with plaster covering it. I have masonry bits, a drill, and an impact driver (no hammer drill, though I may be able to borrow one).

When drilling, the bit is wandering instead of drilling in (probably due to the irregular stone not being perpendicular at this spot to the hole I'm trying to drill). Is there a recommended way to get the hole started, so the drill bit stays in one place? Some kind of center punch or similar which I should be using? I tried just starting with a smaller bit, but it's still wandering around the stone instead of biting.


texts:
Greeting Electrical wiring experts !

In consideration of a Southern California house built in 1975, we discovered that most of the branch wiring is labeled as ALUMAFLEX AL/2, so we assumed the house’ s wiring is likely to be Aluminum, however, at the main electrical panel, we noted single strand Aluminum wiring to grounding Bus Bar, whereas the rest are connected to copper end at circuit breakers.  Some of the randomly inspected outlets and switches revealed a combination of Aluminum single strand to outlet's ground screws, whereas others are wired with only copper, which sparked the following inquiries:

How old is ALUMAFLEX wiring?
Is ALUMAFLEX still in production and/or common use, is it safe?.
How can I tell if ALUMAFLEX is properly connected to Copper wiring with the proper type of Aluminum+Copper connector, before connecting to the panel' s circuit breakers?

Thank you]1
[]2
[]3
[]4
[]5
[]6
[]7
[]8
[]9
[]10


texts: Should smoke detectors be on AFCI/GFCI breakers?

texts:
I've heard conflicting advice whether smoke detectors should be on a simple over-current breaker or a AFCI/GFCI breaker. On one hand you want the circuit to be as reliable as possible and since there will be nothing additional plugged into the circuit a simple over-current breaker makes sense.   On the other hand the 2017 code requires just about all 120 volt circuits to be protected at the panel (new construction) with at least AFCI. 2020 code seems to require everything from the doorbell on up to the range to be GFCI protected and most 120 v circuits to be AFCI protected as well.
I'm really curious because I just installed the smokes for my sons new house and the instructions said they should not be on a GFCI/AFCI protected circuit.   It passed final electrical inspection today and the smokes were on an AFCI breaker.
Thoughts from others here?


texts: One portable air conditioner - want to use it in two rooms

texts:
I have a Kenmore portable air conditioner model - 408.72012.  this particular model can be housed on the outside of the building and the A/C air is vented into the inside space (normally through a window).  Almost the opposite of what you normally do with a portable A/C unit.

I have an office right next to my LR and want to pump the A/C into my LR sometimes and other times into my office.  Because I did not have a window to have my A/C Air come into my office through a hole we cut and placed and  fit a flexible dryer vent pipe (the white floppy accordion style)through the wall and on the inside of my office I have the dryer vent cover with flaps (like you would normally see on the outside.  This prevents and critters from getting in.

I am trying to figure out how to split the out flowing A/C air though a "dual Y pipe of some type to flow into my office when I want it in there and my LR when I want it in there.

IS there any such  thing as a U pipe that is not rigid that I could use for this and also some how block them when I want it to flow in only one side or the other?


texts: blower motor only starts after I turn power to it off and back on

texts:
So I have a brand new inside blower motor and capacitor in my HVAC system. However I am experiencing this undesirable behavior where occasionally it (the blower) won't come on. The rest of the system turns on fine, so the cooling/heating coils get juice pumping through them, but the fan never turns on. Even more odd is that I can get the blower to turn on if I crawl under the house and switch the circuit breakers off and then back on. The next time I turn the AC on then the blower starts along with the rest of the system.

I've checked the wiring at the thermostat and even re-seated all the wires so that doesn't appear to be a problem. I also briefly inspected the green wire connection at the furnace and don't really see anything suspicious.

I have an older system which I don't believe has a float that shuts down the blower if the condensate gets too high... at least I can't find a float anywhere.

The furnace has an OLD humidifier component that I have no idea if it works, but it looks like it's connected up to the furnace wiring. Do that's a factor.

Any ideas what might be the problem? What else can I check or try?

As of 6/24/2017 I am still having this problem. However I did NOT have this problem during mild and cold weather... the fan worked just fine from like October until June. Now it's hot and VERY humid, and especially humid under my house where the blower is located. My impression is that the high humidity appears to be the culprit, causing something to fail.


texts: Both kitchen counter GFCI outlets trip quite easily when plugging in small appliances. One also trips, maybe once a month or so, as the coffeemaker tries to make coffee. This has been going on for years through several different coffeemakers. Both GFCI outlets have a single branch outlet downstream. I wired the entire house as part of my renovation project and it passed inspection. I've gone over my wiring and GFCI outlet wiring instructions and used a GFCI circuit tester and it all seems to be correct. This has annoyed my wife and I for a long time now. Hope someone has suggestions on how to dig deeper into this.


texts:
FINAL UPDATE: I have found the culprit - the Nest thermostat itself. First, I disconnected the t'stat at the control panel and found out that the fan would no longer start upon powering the system. Then I replaced Nest with the old 'dumb' t'stat (from 4 years ago), and everything works fine now. Now I will try to figure out what happened to Nest: failure, software update, etc., but that's another topic.

So I had this problem with my HVAC during winter when out of blue (after working fine for many years) the blower (fan) wouldn't stop, even after the temperature reached the target and the burners shut off. The burners would start and stop per thermostat instructions, it's just that the blower motor wouldn't stop to run. The only way to stop the motor was to power off the entire HVAC system. Mere switching the mode to OFF in thermostat wouldn't stop it.

I kind of half-solved the issue then by disconnecting the G wire from my thermostat (Nest 1st Gen, see picture below). As a result, the heating mode worked fine and controlled the blower as it was supposed to. I couldn't manually control the blower from my thermostat, but it wasn't a problem for me, so I never got to the bottom of this.

Now, it's time to use A/C, and this half-solution backfired. When I now set Nest to cool, the outside fan/compressor starts working, but the blower motor in the basement doesn't start. If I connect the G wire back in Nest, the blower does start immediately after powering HVAC without any command (similar situation as in winter), the cool air blows fine, but again the blower wouldn't stop after the desired low temp is reached. The difference now is that the cooling mode doesn't seem to be able to control the blower correctly (or at all) as the heating mode does.

I have visually inspected the system, cleaned wire ends and tightened the screws.

Any ideas what exactly could be wrong and how to fix it? I can provide more info on the system if necessary. Thank you!

UPDATE 06/06/2019: Got back to this after travel. Since running a new t'stat wire didn't look very practical in my set up, first I decided to inspect the wiring and found a lot of splicing. I added a picture of a big splicing hub that could explain the color mismatch for wires: HVAC's Green wire becomes Yellow on t'stat, Red becomes Black. White is White (although a bit yellowish due to age). But I am confused about where the Blue wire at t'stat comes from. I can see the Blue wire from HVAC going towards the outdoor compressor, but how it ends up in t'stat I don't know. Unfortunately, I am not able to follow the cables to t'stat for the whole length due to basement ceiling.

Still looking for any ideas on why my fan suddenly started blowing without stopping and how to solve this. Thank you!


texts: What's a good sound proofing material to fill an old aperture?

texts:
Our bedroom has a disused aperture that looks like it was once for an extractor fan. Both ends are covered with a simple plastic grille.

We have serious a noise problem because of this vent. Short of filling it in with concrete, what would be an effective and easily available material to quickly and easily fill the hole in the wall?


texts: Can I steal neutral from fixture for 3-way switch device with no neutral?

texts:
my 3-way switch is wired this way, because i am unlucky:

so i have neutral in the line box, no neutral in the load box. i want to use a leviton smart switch that requires neutral in both boxes. if i were crafty enough, could i pigtail a new line off the neutral line in the fixture to run down to the load box? i am super green at this, so forgive me for asking a stupid question. there's also some information out there saying i can use one of the travelers as neutral, which i'll try first... i'm just playing 'worst case scenario'.


texts:
I want to mill my own lumber from a forested property and mill I have access to. I understand there is a long drying process involved, and I intend to dry a large volume.

What is the process for drying the lumber? How do I determine the drying times for various cuts?

I have access to a large garage as well to keep it out of the elements, of course.


texts: Running schedule 40 black steel pipe through concrete foundation wall

texts:
I need to rerun all the gas line in my house all the way back to the meter, because the current size is 3/4 inch and the meter needs to feed a 1 inch to handle newly added appliances.
The existing pipe runs through the concrete foundation wall 6 inches above ground.

What size hole should I drill through the concrete for a 1" diameter schedule 40 black steel pipe? How do I line/fill/seal the extra space in the hole after running the pipe? Do I need to keep the pipe from resting on the concrete?


texts: What is this type of roof covering called

texts: So, I built the framing for this structure some years ago not knowing exactly what it's called. Can anyone elaborate?


texts: How can I make a bluish "white" LED less blue?

texts:
I recently bought this white LED reading lamp. I like it a lot, but the "white" light produced is significantly blue; I'll guess its color temperature is about 5000K.

I've noticed that, when this is the only source of light, printed text appears slightly fuzzy, and is more difficult to read than with a standard incandescent reading lamp. My guess is that this is chromatic aberration causing color fringing in my eyes, making it harder to read with this new lamp.

Is there a way to make this lamp less blue using some sort of transparent/translucent filter over the lens? This could filter out some of the blue end of the spectrum, or include a phosphor to convert some of the blue to yellow (as most "white" LEDs do). The fluorescence idea would be better, as there'd be less light lost. I don't want to go too far, though; a strongly yellow lamp might be worse for reading than this currently blueish lamp.


texts: How can I find the centre of a round table?

texts:
I was building a round table with a single pole in the middle.

I have the round table top, a base, a pole and a mount to go under the table.
The mount has a hole in the middle for the pole and then goes wider to spread out the load (it is around 25cm in diameter and has 8 screw holes to go into the wooden table top).

There are a number of suggestions online on how to find the centre of a circle. However most of these are for smaller circle and suggest using rulers and squares which is not as practical for a larger table (~1.5m diameter).

Is there a best practice for finding the centre of a larger table? How important is it that I am centre of the table?

Because it is a single pole table I am a bit nervous it may come out wobbly if off centre.


texts: How can I remove a cable from a junction box?

texts:
I have a ceiling junction box in my garage that has four armored cables coming into it. I want to remove one of the cables as I'm not using it. I don't have access to the back side of the box, because the ceiling is finished (metal lath and plaster).

I'm thinking I could remove this a few different ways:

twist the wires together, wire nut, and leave in the box
cut the exposed copper, and electrical tape the ends
cut the wires back to the cable clamps


texts: What should I do about a hardwood floor that's sagging between the joists?

texts:
I recent bought an older (1890) house. On the original floors, the wood flooring is sagging between the joists--you can feel the height difference as you walk, up and down, up and down. It's firm, it's just not flat. The joists below are in great condition, huge old timbers, they're just far apart and I'm betting the subfloor is not up to the task of staying flat.

Is this something to be concerned about? What complications might this cause (e.g., could furniture legs break through the floor if between joists)? Or should I ignore it until it comes time to refloor the house? Is it possible to shore this up from underneath?


texts: A drywall patch without studs at the edges -- should I just open it up?

texts:
Our powder room recently had a chunk of wall removed for some plumbing work. The resulting hole doesn't end at a stud on either side (for scale, that's about 32" side-to-side):

If it was just a rectangle the height of the left side, I would probably consider putting a furring strip behind each edge and anchoring the patch to that, but I'm uncomfortable with the length of the right edge.
Is the correct solution here just to open the hole all the way to the side walls so that I can properly anchor the edges into a stud?


texts: My neighbor keeps complaining about my music. How to soundproof my apartment?

texts:
I live in an old apartment building and the walls are thin. This is a problem because I love to listen to music -- sometimes at odd hours of the night. Yes, I can be an asshole in this way. But my neighbor bangs against the wall even when I'm being perfectly reasonable (his bedroom seems to share a wall with my living room). And it's not just the low frequencies that get to him. He knocks against the wall even when I turn the subwoofer off on my speakers, which are located on the opposite wall.

This is kinda unacceptable. This is my home! What can I do so that I can live in it the way I want?


texts: Does my kitchen sink trap have a removable cap?

texts:
My condo in Toronto was built in 2013. Does my kitchen's trap have the "removable cap" mentioned in this post?

Full resolution image

]3


texts: Is it a bad idea to install a book shelf system on drywall?

texts:
I've got a shelf system that I would like to install on a wall in my living room that's made out of drywall, and was wondering whether the wall would be able to hold the shelves and contents. The shelves themselves come to around 33kg.
Would the drywall be able to hold up the shelves and contents by itself? Or if not, would it work if one of the shelf rails was attached to a wooden stud? And would it matter if it was a side bracket or would it need to be the central bracket or multiple brackets?
This is the shelf set that I've got:


texts: Considerations for spray foam insulation with roof replacement possible in about 10 years

texts:
We have an old house in the Philadelphia area which we bought last year. This has a slate roof and we were told by our home inspector that we'd need to consider replacing it in 10 years. It is the original roof and has been on the house ~70 years so I think the estimate of 10 years is conservative. I plan to continue having the roof checked out and slates replaced as necessary.

Spray foam insulation is attractive because we are installing an AC system and it'll bring this within the thermal envelope of the house, albeit at a premium cost. Assuming the lifetime is so short (and all the insulation will be out when a new roof is installed) I'd expect that I could have roof leaks or other issues before the roof is replaced.

Does this type of insulation add major overhead to what would be simpler tasks? How do leaks manifest with spray foam insulation? Do they hide themselves for a longer period?


texts:
The tiles behind the taps of my bath have come off completely and I don't know what to do. My main concern is if it could contain asbestos withing the tiles themselves, the adhesive or the plaster stuff behind them. I assume water could also get there as well. There is also a crack in the ceiling directly below this place but no sign of damp or anything. Do I try and cover it up with something? If it does contain asbestos and needs to be removed professionally, covering it up would make it harder to remove right? I have no idea about DIY or anything and my parents aren't worried at all. Personally I am very worried about it. Also worried about the mould. Have attached some pics.

Thanks for reading. Any help is appreciated.


texts:
I have flood vents in-front and behind my raised house, which sits on a crawl space. I would like to put a raised garden in the front of my house. Is it acceptable to do this if I create an opening for the water to flow through the vent? I could just make an opening using the paver bricks around the hole opening. Is this legal/to code? I really can't find anything, or any examples of people doing this.

Thank you


texts: Just bought an electric car. Do I need a bigger panel?

texts: I'm looking to add a 30amp 240v outlet about 15 feet away using 10-3 armored cable. Can I piggyback off of one of my AC compressors? (Left side 2nd breaker from the top and taking 4slots for 2 zone compressors) I lower the thermostat every night on one of them so I know only one or the other will turn on. I plan on only charging between midnight and 8am.


texts: How can I fill old screw holes in wood on the exterior of a house?

texts:
The exterior of my house is stucco, but there are some spots that have vertical wood planks. I think this was considered "in style" when my house was built (1950s).

Anyway, over the years previous owners had installed various things to these wood panels - I imagine an exterior security light, for instance - that now have empty screw holes. I'd like to fill these, as they're a tad unsightly and, I imagine, are just asking for fungus/mold growth.

Pardon my ignorance, but how do I go about filling these? Is there a product designed specifically to fill holes in exterior wood?


texts: Recommended joint compound for wall mounted tile backer boards

texts:
I’ve installed pro warm tile backer boards on my bathroom walls. What’s the recommended way to fill the joints before tiling over?

The Marmox guides say to use waterproof tape or joint compound. I was going to tape the joints and plaster over this. Are there any specific joint compounds I should use for this?


texts: Is it standard/acceptable to leave drywall bare behind kitchen cabinetry?

texts:
We have contractors working on our kitchen and it's been a bit of a mess. Right now, about 3/4s of the room is drywalled/taped/floated/primed/painted (single coat)... and a small section of wall behind some cabinets and where our stove will be is just bare drywall.

One of the cabinets is a set of drawers but the other is an open-backed cabinet designed to hold a built-in microwave and also has the gas line and connection for the stove.

The area inside the cabinet looks like this:

click to expand

Will the drywall be harmed by not being treated at all? Is taping, floating, and painting necessary?

My main concern is it soaking up grease/water from the stove.


texts: Can I extend the ground/bus bar in a main service to accomodate subpanel equipment ground?

texts:
I am about to replace the main service breaker panel in my house.  The old panel (a 200amp Siemens 40-circuit) had bus bars that extended the entire vertical length of the box.  The new panel I would like to install (A Square D QO) has doubled up bus bars that only come down about 30% of the length of the box.

The problem is, this box feeds a 100-amp sub-panel, whose wire comes in from the bottom of the box.  For the old install, the large (#2 I believe) ground wire feeding the sub-panel is connected at the very bottom of the bus bar.  Unfortunately, in the new panel, it will not reach the shorter bus bars.

Will the code allow me to add a ground bus bar to connect the sub-panel ground to?  There are threaded bus bar holes near the bottom of the breaker box that would be within reach of the large ground wire.  If so, what do I use to bond the additional ground bus bar to the main ground bus bar?


texts: Can I safely plug a two prong plug into an extension cord with a ground socket?

texts: I have a plug for a wireless router that ends in two prongs (no ground). Is it safe for me to plug this into an extension cord that has the ground prong, which would be left empty? I believe it is but want to double check.


texts: I recently replaced a switched outlet with a new receptacle. I was sure to wire it exactly as the old one. I also made sure to break the tab between the side screws where the red and black wires connect. However, upon turning the power back on, the outlet is still unswitched: power on both outlets and the wall switch has no affect. What am I missing?


texts: How to replace a light fixture that has a 3-way light switch

texts:
Box] I have a light fixture above a stairwell. There are two live switches that control it, one at the bottom of the stairs, one at the top. The wiring is relatively new about 25 years old (all copper, no knob and tube).

I removed the existing light fixture, which functioned well, with the intention to install a new fixture. I forgot to make notes on how the existing one was connected to the ceiling box. There are two black, two white wires, and one bare copper ground wire. One black wire is always live, it seems to be independent of the two switches. The other black wire and the two white wires are not live, independent of the two switches. I have a multimeter to measure the current.

I am confused as to how I am supposed to connect the new light fixture. Please help!


texts: Refrigerator on GFCI is tripping other AFCI breakers in the house

texts:
This is going to sound really weird, but it has been going on for 6 years and the electricians that wired our house spent multiple days trying to figure it out before we found it was definitely the fridge, but no idea what or why.
When we open the door on our fridge (a 6 yr old Whirlpool model #WRF736SDAM11 French Door) it occasionally trips another AFCI circuit in our house. The circuit it trips used to jump all over the place, but is pretty consistent on which breaker it throws these days. The electricians went over all of the lines that were tied to the fridge, and to the other breakers that were tripping, but found no faults. They replaced outlets, breakers, switches, the lot with no result. It only happens when opening the door of the fridge.
I've read that the LED driver in this fridge could cause line noise, but I'm not sure how to verify that, and if so, how to go about resolving it. The fridge itself never trips the GFCI circuit it is on.


texts: Can I varnish natural wood trim before installation?

texts:
When I'm installing painted trim -- baseboards, window or door trim, etc. -- I usually prime and paint it before installation.  That way I only have to fill the nail holes, sand smooth and paint one coat after installation.

If I want my trim to have a natural wood finish instead, how much of the process of applying wood conditioner, stain and two or three coats of varnish can I do before I install the trim?


texts: How should I prepare old subfloor for vinyl plank flooring?

texts: This is a floating floor that glues to itself flooring, the allure planks have a underlayment attached.  It will be going over 40 year old wood planks that have had repairs in a  ground level living room. Should I use a floor leveler or underlayment product over all floor 25' x 11', or just patch gaps and holes? Thanks.


texts:
I just finished installing my shower escutcheon but am unsure of how to seal around the inner hole. Here's a picture

There's a flimsy foam seal in there but I don't feel good about relying on that. How should I seal around this? Caulk?


texts: At my house the load center has two blue wires going to the pool pump panel. At the load center the voltage between these two blue wires is 240V. At the other end of the blue wires it measures 127V and the 240V pump will not run. The wires have been in place for 19 years. Any ideas what has gone wrong?


texts: In a gangbox with switches on two different circuits, how can I identify which neutrals are associated with which circuit?

texts:
By 'two different circuits,' I mean 'two separate single-pole breakers'.

Here is a crude wiring diagram of the switches and electrical box in question:

https://i.imgur.com/yefrWHx.png

The red things are wire nuts.
The black ovals (1-6) are knockouts.
Circuit X:

Switch A is a single-pole switch that controls 4 outdoor lights.
Switch B is a 4-way switch that controls 2 ceiling light fixtures (along with 2 other switches).
May also have 1 outdoor outlet, but I forgot to check.

Circuit Y:

Switch C is a 3-way switch that controls half of an outlet (along with 1 other switch).
Also has 4.5 'always-on' outlets.

The pink wires in the diagram are white in reality.
The black connected to Switch A is the hot.
The pink (white) wires never measure a voltage, regardless of any switch's state.
I have a very basic 2-probe voltage tester (like this), but no continuity tester.
Everything functions correctly.

What is the easiest way to figure out:

If the pink (white) wires are indeed neutrals?
If they are associated with Circuit X or Circuit Y?
What the orange wire is? (Possibly neutral for the other circuit?)


texts: How do I change which half of a receptacle is controlled by a wall switch?

texts: I have a switched outlet in a bedroom. The top receptacle is controlled by a wall switch while the bottom is always hot. Can I make it so the top is always hot and the bottom is switched by just moving the hot wire to the top and the red(switch) wire to the bottom?


texts: LED bulbs in chandelier periodically all blink at once

texts:
Edit for clarity- The bulbs are not flickering or flashing. They periodically (> 10 minute intervals) turn off and then on in unison.

I have a chandelier with 5 bulbs. I recently replaced all 5 60w incandescent bulbs with 40w equivalent Philips LEDs. The chandelier is on a dimmer.  The bulbs work fine but after about 10 or 15 minutes, all 5 bulbs blink once at the same time. Then there will be another long pause and it will happen again. Rinse. Repeat.

I thought it might be the dimmer which is about 25 years old so I replaced it with a new Leviton slider dimmer(LED compatible). The same thing just happened again. The only common element to the five bulbs is the dimmer switch, right? There are no electronics in the chandelier.

What else could cause them all to act in unison?


texts: How to beautify a small gap between porch and sidewalk

texts: I have a very small gap between my cement porch and the sidewalk. I'm looking for a creative way to dress it up a bit.  Are there thin, oblong stones that could be layered in a small space?  The space is 4.5" tall on both sides, and 4' in the middle. Looking for ideas.


texts: Should I add wood sheathing to a metal roof car port?

texts:
I'm making a carport that is about 10 feet wide with 2x6's for the "roof frame" and 4x6 posts. I was going to use a medal roof using tin I think. Do I first need to put down wood sheathing? Or can I attach the medal directly to the 2x6's?

I think the UNDERSIDE would look better seeing the medal but I also don't want to have it blow away.


texts: Replacing a dimmer with 2 blacks and a green with a smart switch

texts:
I have a smart wall switch that I want to install and it has 4 wires which are load, live, gnd-green, and Nuetral-white connections.

My dimmer has not markings on the connections but has 2 black wires connecting to 2 blacks in the box and a gnd (green).   This is not a 3 way but I found a red unused wire in the box,  Of course one of the blacks is the load the other is hot.  Could the red wire be the needed white wire and is miss colored?

Any help is appreciated.


texts:
I am installing a new p-trap under my new vanity. The depth from the wall of the new vanity is about 6 inches shorter than the old and the tailpiece for the sink is now closer to the wall than before. Given the shorter distance from the tailpiece to the wall, I have been unable to match the j-bend with the trap arm even if I shorten the trap arm. The only way I have been able to hook it up is by rotating the pieces as shown in the picture.

All the pieces don't make an even plane with the wall. Is this acceptable and/or is there a better way to do this?


texts: Is ideal clear pulling lube okay for pvc conduit

texts: I'm pulling NM 6 gauge 3 conductor (plus ground) through a 1 inch pvc conduit.  I'm wondering if Ideal Clear pulling lube is okay.  It says it's okay for all wiring types, but not if it's okay for all conduits.  Ideal 77 says it's okay for pvc but not for low-density polyethylene and semi-conducting jackets.  I'm not sure what kind of jacket my NM 6-3 wire has.


texts:
Symptoms:

Location is suburban Long Beach, CA. 5 miles from the beach.
I started getting bit two weeks ago. I've got 12+ bites. They're very itchy red welts up to 1/2".
The house has three broken foundation screens. For rodents to get in. I've never seen rats in the area.
For 1 month I've occasionally heard banging type noises in the walls around my bedroom and the bathroom. It doesn't sound particularly like animals.
The attic fans are screened. There aren't eaves on the house. Walking around the house, there's no sign of birds. I haven't seen or heard anything in the attic.
It took 2 weeks of getting bit and looking before I found any mites.
When empty, they look like a single piece of small translucent dust. Practically impossible to see unless crawling on a black surface and viewed within a foot with bright light and 20/20 vision. When full of blood, they're much easier to see. They look like black dots and can be seen when crawling. They're very slow, dumb, and clumsy. If you shake your shirt that will probably flick them off. They're difficult to crush (like fleas) when empty, but easy when full. If you're paying attention, you may be able to feel one crawling on you. In my case, they're attracted most to groin (underwear), feet/ankles (socks), armpits, and back of the knee. Biting mites like warm pockets of skin or where clothing fits tightly.

I found ~12 mites crawling around a crack where the wall meets the floor in the bathroom.

Several months ago I noticed a minor ant problem around the same crack. That crack is the only location in the house that I've identified as an insect source. The house is pretty clean and not much insects until recently.

In total, I've seen ~25 mites. All but one were in the bathroom. The other I felt crawling on my arm when I was lying on my bedroom floor.

My mom also started getting bites roughly at the same time as me. I found some carpet beetles around her bed area. Cleaned up the whole thing but the bites came back soon after.

Dad in the same bed as mom is not getting bit. Sister in the next room to me is not getting bit.

The wall is a separator between two bathrooms. Depiction:

There's also an attic above and a crawl space below.

How should I control this rat mite or possibly bird mite infestation?

What form of pesticide if any would do well?
Seal the crack with caulk?
How to determine what is going on behind that wall? And find the animal.
Fix broken foundation screens around home.
Add screens to air vent openings.


texts: Slack on hose and venting for washer and dryer

texts:
In our cottage have a large coat-closet near our front door -- the only place we could put a stacked washer/dryer. Plumbing is already nearby and it shares exterior wall (to place vent).
The problem: the washer/dryer would need to go above the access panel hatch into crawl space. We will only need to access that crawl space about once-per-year.
The question: Can we put the washer/dryer on wheels and keep an extra few feet of slack on the hose/vent to be able to pull it out (in order to access the crawl space) without needing to disconnect everything?


texts: How to repair cut joist around pipe *after* framing and drywall

texts:
I'm finishing my attic and have just realized that my rough carpenter screwed up by not addressing a cut joist. In photo 1, you can see that the joists have been sistered with LVLs, but there is a gap in one joist around the vent pipe (lower right). The small pieces of wood connecting the two sections of the original joist are resting on top of a wall below (perpendicular), but it is not a load bearing wall. In photo 2 you can see this area up close as well as the framing for a bathroom. The room has since been drywalled and tiled.

We were about to put the toilet in, when I realized I had better be sure that corner can take the 100+ pounds it will add. I am going to set the toilet box in the corner and see if I detect any deflection over the next month or so. (I'm putting joint compound along the top and bottom of the baseboards and will watch to see if cracks form.) If I see even the slightest movement I will ask my rough carpenter to come back and address the cut joist, which will mean breaking into the ceiling of the finished rooms below.

However, I'm not sure exactly what the fix should be. Maybe sister the two sides of the cut joist, except they do not align exactly. Maybe cut off each side and and put headers connecting the two pieces to the adjacent joists? Except that the adjacent joists should be doubled, and that will not be easy--the rooms below are finished. Maybe they can be strengthened with a steel place?


texts: The water supply to my toilet is copper with a valve sweated on.  The line from the valve to the tank seems to be a compression fitting.  The valve has developed a leak around the shaft which the handle is mounted on.  There seems to be a "nut" at the base of the shaft which looks like I could loosen it and repack the valve but I'm unsure.  I'd really prefer to avoid having a plumber come out to sweat on a new valve if I can.


texts: I need to patch some wood siding after a roofer modified my roof. I have spare siding from parts and pieces that were removed. Should I glue the siding on or should I nail it in place?


texts: How to repair (and prevent) pool cover tear & holes

texts: We have a safety cover for an inground pool. Over the winter, heavy snow melting and refreezing caused it to be weighed below the surface and tore up a few holes where the cover contacts the concrete edge. A safety cover seems pretty expensive. Are there ways to repair these? Any tricks to prevent such friction-caused tears?


texts: What should I consider when replacing an outlet serving two kitchen circuits?

texts:
I have an outlet underneath my kitchen sink that serves my dishwasher and my garbage disposal. The latter's circuit is toggled by a switch above the countertop. I need to replace the outlet, and was informed by the hardware store that any outlet I purchase can be used to serve the dual circuit setup. The hardware store employees left me uncertain as to their claim. What's more, the hardware store recommended I purchase a GFCI outlet to increase safety. While I understand the benefits of GFCI, I'm even less sure of its ability to be wired the way I require.

Will any outlet suffice for replacing the outlet I have under the sink, serving two different circuits (one of which is toggled by a switch)? If not, what do I need to be aware of going back to the hardware store to get what I need? Are there any other tips that would ease the installation?


texts: I live in an older house (California) and the overhead light fixture boxes seem small.  They unreceptive to the fixtures my wife has purchased from Ikea in that they have two holes for accepting screws and no amount of cajoling the Ikea fixture will cause its holes to line up.  I've picked up an adapter plate from a hardware store but none of its holes line up with the fixture's holes either.  Am I doing it wrong?


texts: I want to hang an egg chair from my ceiling between two joists that are 24” apart. I have no attic access. Can I put a metal plate with a welded u ring in the center of the plate across the two joists and attach them with bolts onto the two joists? My ceiling is drywall and slanted like the picture . I’d like to make it look similar to this photo. How thick would the plate have to be to hold a load of 200 lbs?


texts:
How to GFCI-protect a 3 gang box where each receptacle is on a different circuit.

There's a 3-gang box near my kitchen sink. In it is a light switch, the garbage disposal switch, and an outlet. All of these are on different circuits (with the disposal on a dedicated circuit).

Is there a way to project all of these with a single GFCI, or do I need to replace all three with GFCIs?


texts: How can I safely connect a subpanel in a detached garage to the main with a 3-wire connection?

texts:
This weekend I attempted to install a breaker box into a pre-wired garage.  The previous owners took the breaker box with them when they moved, and since I have installed quite a few subpanels, it seemed like an easy job to replace it.

The subpanels I have installed have always used 4-wire connections, so I was surprised to find that only three wires had been run underground through the conduit, and the ground was attached to a separate rod at the garage.

Reading up on the permits for the house and some NEC info lead me to believe that this was a pre-2005 installation, at which point 3-wire was still allowed to connect a sub to a main in a detached structure.

My question is this:

What is the correct setup for neutral and ground in the sub panel?  Should they be bonded, and do I need to attach a ground to the buried rod at the garage as well?

Specifically, I need to know if this image shows a correct setup before I proceed.  This question has been touched upon in other posts, but not adequately answered:

(source: nachi.org)


texts: New vanity doesn't leave room for old J trap - how should I run the new pipe?

texts:
I am ready to cut the drain pipe behind the wall with the 12" ruler laying on it (see pics) and raise the height of the vanity's sink drain, but I'm not sure the best way to do this. I want to raise the drain pipe about 6 to 7 inches. My ideas so far, but it seems like I'm missing an easier solution:

1) Cut the drain pipe above and below the vanity downspout and reconnect it 6 inches higher (so I would reuse the horizontal drain pipe and connect it to the vertical one 6 inches higher, cut a new hole in the drywall 6" higher and call it done.

2) Cut the drain pipe just before it enters the wall connect it 90 degrees up the 5 inches and 90 degrees toward the wall?

3) Cut the drain pipe and connect a 45 degree up so it connects with the wall about 5 inches higher and connect a 90 towards the wall.

I'm not sure how to connect to that pipe.. (Is it stainless galvanized steel?)
Also not sure how to connect it.. I think I need a rubber collar with 2 stainless steel clamps. Advice appreciated. I normally just research these on my own, but am pressed for time to get this done. Thanks in advance.


texts: Can I use a standard pvc new work box for receptacles/ switches, in an outdoor patio wall that will be enclosed? The wall will be completely sealed and covered in stone so rain, snow, etc. will not be able to enter the box(es).


texts: Can I hang cabinets and shelves on metal studs?

texts:
I recently moved into a high rise apartment and need to hang some cabinets. The cabinets themselves weight about 20lbs and I'm thinking the stuff stored inside them will be around 40lbs.

I know I need to mount these into the studs which I've been told should be metal since it is a high rise, but I'm not sure how to double check this?

I went to Home Depot and bought a pack of 2" metal stud screws, which is what I was recommended by the person working there. I just want to double check that this is ok and will actually support the amount of weight (~60lbs). I know that I need to drill a pilot hole before putting the screw through but is there anything else I should be aware of when hanging these shelves? In terms of metal studs, as I have never mounted anything using metal studs.

This is the cabinet I am trying to mount, I have a single like this one and also a double which is two of these attached to each other and are all mounted using a suspension rail.


texts: Did I miss the stud when I drilled into the wall?

texts:
Short version:

My drill bit didn't have any wood shavings on it. Did I miss the stud?

Long version:

Operating just outside of my DIY comfort zone, I have erected a picture rail on the wall about 50mm from the ceiling.

The picture rail is going to bear a load, so I used my brand new stud finder to find the studs. They were where I expected to find them - both in the corners and spaced 600mm apart between them, so I was feeling good about that.

Very near the ceiling, the stud-finder was triggering constantly, so I figured there was some sort of horizontal beams as well, but I stuck to directly in line with the studs running up the wall.

The AC detector was triggering near light switches, but nowhere near where I was drilling, which was reassuring. I wasn't expecting any pipes in that wall.

When I drilled, the bit went easily through the soft drywall, and then hit something hard, which took a bit more weight to push through. When it got through through that, the bit went all the way in. Odd, I would expect a stud to require a continuous force. Did I hit something thin?

When I examined the drill bit afterwards, I expected to see white plaster dust and some sawdust and wood shavings, but there was only plaster dust.

This was repeated three times.

Whatever was behind the plasterboard accepted the screws. The picture rail is up, and seems to be supporting sufficient weight, but I am left worried that I did this wrong, and want to check before I erect any more picture rails.


texts: What should I use to fix chips in veneer plaster?

texts:
I had some water issues in my shower and finally got fed up enough to remove the miss-cut plastic back-splash that previous contractor had tried to install using thin-set.
Upon removal I found a moldy rotten backer panel, so I began to sledge hammer it out with the intent to replace it with cement board.  However, as I got further away from the rot, my sledge hammer would occasionally bounce off the wall instead of punching though and it became apparent that there is a very hard plaster over what appears to be blue board.
I continued the demo to the edge of each panel abutting the tub, and tried to stop there, but occasionally some of the joints shattered in a way that removed the plaster covering the blue board above it.
How do I fix the shattered plaster so that my cement board will be flush with the the entire run of plaster coated blue board?

I'm only asking because I've gotten a bunch of mixed answers from various hardware stores

The most common is "I don't know" which at least is better than miss information

Some say Spackle; but my previous experience is that it doesn't want really want to adhere to the plaster and occasionally will fall out

Others have told me joint compound, but I'm not convinced it will be much different than Spackle, nor will it be as hard and water proof.

Finally, after insisting that I didn't want to use Spackle, one other associate told me to use Plaster of Paris, which Google seems to tell me is different than veneer plaster, and might set up too quickly.


texts: Why would there be a wooden board under cement board in tub alcove?

texts:
I'm removing the cement board to make tiling easier. I've so far removed two walls.  The third wall however is the one with the shower head and controls on it.

I rubbed away a bit of cement board (to make a hole for a saw), and I noticed this one is different from the other two.  It appears their is a wooden board underneath the cement board.

From what I've read, this isn't normal, and may be detrimental (breath-ability?).  Does anyone know why this may be the case?  Should I remove this board as well, or should I replace it with another board?

Image:

Edit:  I've removed some of the cement board.  No adhesive is between the cement board and the wooden board.

Thanks,
Justin W.


texts: Can I paint over lead based varnish with a primer and paint without stripping the varnish?


texts:
This is probably the most amateurish question here :)

I always lived in brick houses where i had conduits to pass cables thru. life was easy.

Now i'm on a rented wood panel(?) house. And i want to pass a network cable from the top floor to the bottom floor, on a wall that is shared with the neighbor.

I am hopping that simply opening up the outlet panels and pushing in the cable with some weight from the top floor i will be able to get it on the outlet in the bottom as it is almost liner... but i'm sure i won't be that lucky.

what am i bound to find in the way? i am almost sure there will be something on the second floor height blocking my way...  and any way to overcome obstacles that do not involve cutting holes in the wall?

edit: found this question but i don't think this applies as i don't have a crawl space...


texts: How to tighten a nut in a tank that can not be reached?

texts:
I got a water tank (like this) installed which is leaking from an unused outlet at the bottom. The fitting is as shown in the figure below, it looks somewhat like a bulkhead installed in reverse:

Pic from outside:

I think that the water is seeping out from either side of the outside gasket. The obvious way to fix this is to tighten the nut on the inside.
However I can't tighten the nut from the inside because the tank has a narrow opening and is very deep. I will have to drain it, disconnect it, move it on its side and then crawl into it, which is a lot of work and risks damaging the tank.

I am asking if anyone has ideas or knows of tools which provide an easier way to do this.


texts:
I have a 10 year old hardwood (red gum) table that has had a hard life. It was originally finished with bee's wax but I did not really keep up maintenance.

What is the best way clean up this table? Is it just a matter of running a belt sander over the top then reapplying the wax?


texts: Ridge beam sizing for an 8'6" x 20' tiny house

texts:
I am building an 8'6" x 20' tiny house on wheels and am trying to size up the ridge beam. The 2x6 rafters are placed 24"oc and are mounted to beam with Simpson Strong-Tie hangers. The beam rests on 4x4 end posts. The roof will be vaulted on the interior, so no collar ties. Here are some specs:

Currently, I have a 4x10' and I understand the best option would be to consult a structural engineer, but wanted to get some more input from others.

Note: you'll notice I've tried two different type of gable ends, one with 45deg support ends.

Best


texts: Is it safe to use my oven with no light bulb in it at all?

texts:
I looked in the oven before sticking a pizza in it and noticed the bulb was popped so I carefully removed it and now I don't know if it's safe to use the oven with no bulb.

It's a Roper oven, and the bulb just sticks out with no cover.


texts: What are these holes in my concrete wall and how can I mount things to them?

texts:
I have several 2.3" holes in my concrete walls.  I think they were likely used as part of the construction or assembly process.  They're maybe an inch to an inch and a half deep, and they look like this:

I'd like to use them to non-destructively mount things to my wall (such as a VESA monitor, let's say).  My idea is to put an anchor in them that can brace against the sides of the hole, then mount a rail to it that I can mount my monitor on.

The question is, what kind of anchor can I put in the hole that can non-destructively form a sturdy mount for a rail of some sort to mount a monitor?


texts: Older house built in the late 60's.  Trying to remove existing Halo (new work?) recessed fixture completely to  retrofit and extend circuit to one more fixture.  I removed the 4 screws (well there were only 3) and the can comes down about 1/2" to a fairly hard stop that feels metallic in nature.  Any thoughts ?


texts:
Some of the details of this question are a little hazy so please bear with me.

I moved into a townhouse in February. I had a small toaster oven plugged into an outlet but then its stopped working. I believe I reset the breaker (I think it was anyway) and had power again. There are 2 different circuits on panel that say kitchen. I do not believe there is a gfci on either kitchen circuit...only for outside and bathroom receptacles

The power went out again and I figured it could have been due to stab loading due to intermittent power. I replaced all receptacles and wrapped wires around screws. I used to be electrical assistant so I know my receptacles are wired correctly. The power worked again for about a week or 2 then went out again. I also replaced breaker as I was not getting power on the breaker with it on using a voltage sniffer. I also tightened all neutrals in the panel. Still have no power...any ideas as to what's going on?


texts: How can I run a line under a cement sidewalk

texts:
What's a good way run a length of 2" PVC underground from one side of the porch to the other. I'd use it as a culvert to route a garden hose in the long term.

The cement step and walk are 4' wide.  The step is 7"x16", or about 3 cubic ft, or about 450 lbs.  The house was built in the early 1940s in SW Washington state.  There is an irregular 1/2" gap between the step and the base of the porch suggesting it is not attached to the porch.

Rather than trench underneath the walk or step, I was thinking of rolling back the 4 ft wide step 90 degrees, digging a trench, laying the PVC, covering the PVC with sand, then rolling the step back.

Or rent a cement saw and cut off 2" of cement walk where it abuts the step and is cracked anyway, lay the hose (no PVC), lay sand, then fit a piece of PT 2x lumber ripped to fit.

What is your suggestion?


texts: How to reinforce a joist with plumbing running through it?

texts:
After removing the sub floor in my bathroom in order to extend the sewer pipe for the toilet (it's too close to the tank-side wall), I found that the floor joists have extremely large holes cut in them to make way for the plumbing.
What are my options for reinforcing them?  I don't think I could do a sister joist both because of the plumbing running through the joist and because the joist runs quite a ways through the floor of my second story, and adding a sister joist would involve taking up a ton of the floor.
Should I brace it with steel bridging?  I'm concerned about the potential vertical load.
What options do I have?
The room is approx 74" by 105" (the 105" runs in the same direction as the joists, it appears that the joists are at least that long, but may extend beneath other rooms)
Joists are 15/8 inches wide, 71/2 inches tall.
There is a 1st floor bathroom below.  There is a tub in the 1st floor bathroom bordered by 3 walls - one of these walls runs perpendicular to the joists 4 feet away from the wall shown on the right in the first picture below.

You can see in this close-up that the furthest joist is completely missing it's bottom:


texts: What is the fully burdened hourly rate for an HVAC installer?

texts:
While it's pretty simple to get an hourly rate that is paid to an HVAC installer, I have found it more difficult to ascertain what the fully burdened rate is.  This is the complete cost a company to put that installer on jobs, not including profit.  So this rate would include all costs to the company (sometimes described as 'overhead') that are directly related to the employee.

The value of knowing this rate is that if you are having HVAC installation work done, and you know how many person-hours the job takes, then you can get a rough idea of how a quote was built (and so how much mark-up / profit is included in the quote).

For instance, say you ascertain that the equipment and supplies for your HVAC install cost $2,500 and permits and other direct expenses are $500.  Also, you know that there will be two people on site for 6 hours, so 12 labor hours.  If you knew that the fully burdened rate was, say $150/hr, then 12*150 would be $1800.  So without markup, the total with parts and labor comes to $4,800.  Adding a fair mark-up for profit, maybe 35%, you come to 1.35*$4,800 = $6,480.  So if you get a quote for $8,000, you can back-into their mark-up of 67% and pass on the deal, as that rate is excessive.

I'm sure this rate I'm asking about varies across companies, but the question is about the rate at an efficient, well-run company. What would a reasonable rate be, or range for such a rate?


texts: Should electrical wiring be placed above or below plumbing pipes

texts: I'm putting a bathroom in my garage/shop. I'm going to have to run wiring and water supply plumbing through the same walls. should I put the wiring above or below plumbing?


texts:
First of all, I'm new to all this. I recently applied mud to the corners and did some texturing in my basement. Two days later I notice there are cracks in some places. Why is this happening and what should I do about it?

UPDATE: Putting it on too thick was definitely what happened. I was just slathering it on like no ones business. Lesson learned...


texts: Lately, I have been hearing a loud humming sound coming from the vicinity of transformer and door bell chime area. Is this normal for a transformer/chime combination that is 40 years old??


texts: Frozen water lines, what should I do with my electric hot water heater?

texts:
I woke up yesterday (Thursday) morning to frozen water lines.  Left taps open all day and still nothing. I will not be able to get anyone in before Monday or Tuesday to thaw the lines.

I don't know what I should do about my electric hot water tank.

I can hear it clicking on and some other funny noises. I do not know if it is full, half full, or even empty.
IF I turn of the electric supply will the water in the heater freeze?

If I leave it on and the tank is empty will I burn out the motor?

I do not know what the water IN line looks like or heck even the water OUT line for that matter....
I have asked a couple of male neighbours what to do and get 'well either way will be okay'  so not overly helpful ~and no one will drop by!
Any help would be appreciated


texts: Why is this ceiling light fixture wired this way?

texts: I'm trying to replace the hanging light below and I've gotten a little confused. Shouldn't the brown wire on the left be connected to the live (red) wires rather than the neutral? I understand that the black wires on the right are connected to the blue wire, both are neutral so that makes sense. The same goes for the earth wires. I just can't understand why it is wired in this way and how it even works?!?! Can someone clarify this for me?


texts: Axial or centrifugal fan for short run out of kitchen?

texts:
I'm researching replacements for a broken extractor fan in my kitchen. It is wall mounted and runs through the wall straight outside, no long ducting involved.

The current (broken) fan is the centrifugal design. My understanding these are best for long runs of ducting, and seem to be lower powered (lower volume of air removed per hour) compared to axial fans.

Another point to mention is that there is a shutter on the end of the ducting, on the outside (to prevent backdraft and bugs/dirt/debris getting in, I guess)

My question is, given I don't have a long duct to extract through, should I get an axial fan over centrifugal design. Axial fans seem to be more powerful, and the increased airflow seems good to clear out kitchen cooking odours, smoke, etc.


texts: How do I nail furring strips without them cracking?

texts:
While remodeling my basement, I had several walls where I just put up furring strips and foam insulation rather than framing in a "real" wall.  I used 1x2 furring strips and attached them with a ramset and 1 1/2 inch nails.

Problem is, putting the nails through the furring strips would quite often cause them to crack.  I tried pre-drilling (didn't really help) and also tried using 1x3 strips in some places (helped a little, but not much).

Is there some trick to nailing up furring strips to keep them from cracking on you?


texts: How can I shorten barstools temporarily so I can reattach the bottom of the legs?

texts: I have a couple solid-wood-legged barstools that I want to temporarily (for a year or so) shorten by 6 inches.  Is there any good way to cut the legs so they'll be more stable upon reattachment?  Or any good way to reattach them solidly?


texts: Do I need a pancake box to hang a ceiling fan or can I use what is already in the ceiling?

texts: I have a space in the ceiling that looks to be wired for a ceiling fan.  It had a plastic cover over it.  I did notice that the cover was screwed into wood that I assuming those are the joists.  I didn't see any other areas that I could screw in the ceiling fan bracket. Would a pancake box work and then just hang the ceiling fan bracket off of that?   It's hard to tell (for me) what is going on in the picture.  Thanks


texts:
I was going to buy some 4x4 timber for veranda posts. However I have some steel posts 65x65x2mm.
I wonder how would one calculate what size steel post can be substituted for the timber post?


texts:
My wife and I are replacing the deck at the back of our house, and after we demolished the existing structure found the retaining walls near our basement door have moved significantly. These are rendered cinder block, about 6' in height and 7' (left) and 9' (right) in length.

It appears as if the previous owners failed to maintain the surface, and water got in... Over several winters the freeze/thaw cycle has caused a heave.

So... Any advice? We will obviously seal the surface where the cracks are, but are there any techniques to repair this heave without replacing the walls?

Left wall:

Right Wall:


texts: Faucet is secured in a strange way. How can I remove it?

texts:
I've replaced a decent amount of faucets but I've never seen something like this. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to remove it so I can replace it?

The faucet is broken to the point where the cold water runs full blast whenever the valve underneath the sink is on. More pictures:

https://imgur.com/a/9r7p76g


texts: Carrier 60,000 BTU 92% Furnace vs Carrier 40,000 BTU 95% AFCU Furnace

texts:
I have about 900 finished square feet in my house, and I'll eventually be adding another 200 or so finished sq/ft in my basement.  I'm looking to get my furnace replaced and have been quoted two options:

Carrier 60,000 BTU 92%
Carrier 40,000 BTU 95%

I'm currently renovating my house and looking for it to be as efficient as possible.  Walls/trusses will be well-insulated and all the windows are being replaced with high-efficiency ones.  I'd like to go with the more efficient furnace, but I'm not sure that it will be enough BTU's to sufficiently heat the place.  I'm looking for an opinion from someone who knows a thing or two about this stuff.

Edit

I should probably mention that I'm from Wisconsin, where we've spent the last couple weeks in -20 degree (with windchill) weather!

There are two exterior doors, 9 windows (including an 8-foot bay window), and it's a single-story, single-family dwelling.


texts: What type of glue can be used to stick aluminium to plastic?

texts:
I want a glue to stick aluminium to plastic. One of the plastic feet of my Macbook Pro keeps falling off. The body is aluminium and the foot is plastic. I have tried gluing it back on with cyanoacrylate glue (aka superglue) and it falls off a few weeks later. The MBP gets hot, and the feet are obviously subject to friction. I feel what it really needs is some glue that will set as rubber (so it's flexible) and yet be strong and bond to both surfaces.

Any ideas what kind of glue would work best? Nothing in the DIY store I visited immediately seemed suitable.

I realise I could probably get Apple to fix this at some expense, but I'm actually after some glue.


texts: Does "Suitable for use in open fixtures" mean not suitable for closed?

texts:
Background:

I need to replace a couple bulbs in my apartment which are controlled by an "old" dimmer switch, which predates the advent of LED bulbs. My understanding is that I cannot use a dimmable LED bulb here, so I'm going for incandescent. If this is wrong, I will buy LEDs and the rest of this question is irrelevant. (previously it had CFLs, which seemed inappropriate and would flicker)

Bulbs: I got "Ecosmart" dimmable incandescent bulbs from Home Depot. 43W ("60W Replacement"). Natural light (I mention this because a similar model with a different light color has very different warnings on the back, including having an internal Halogen (!) which this does not mention, though it still may have for all I know).

Fixture: My fixture appears to say "660W 250V". (Does that sound right? I'm in the U.S.) so it sounds like I'm well within limits. It's on the ceiling, and it has a cover that I would describe as white and translucent, and encloses the bulbs completely. The fixture also has a silver sort of surface above the bulbs, presumably to insulate the ceiling from them.

I can attach photos of either if desired.

My concern is this:

Among the warnings on the back of the packaging is "Suitable for use in open fixtures". However it does not say "Insuitable for use in closed fixtures". Should I infer this? Am I in a danger of fire if I use this thing with the cover on? (Guy at Home Depot thought it over and ultimately concluded it should be fine, but I want to double check) Right now I have been using it with the cover off.

Thanks!


texts: Should I have thicker areas of foundation under posts?

texts: I am building a structure with large frame timbers. The structure rests on 16 8x8 posts. There will be a foundation with a perimeter footer, but I want to know if the posts on the interior of the structure should have a thicker foundation as well. Should there be some sort of pier or footer under these interior beams poured with the foundation?


texts: Does a GFCI also protect against arc faults?

texts:
I have an old house, the electrical cabling only has two wires with no ground wire. When I bought it years ago, I had an electrician in to look at it, and they put GFCI blank-face receptacles on every circuit just outside of the electrical panel. So every outlet and fixture in my house is on the load side of a GFCI.
However, they didn't replace the existing breakers with AFCIs. My question is whether the GFCIs provide adequate protection against arc faults, or if I should also still have AFCI breakers.


texts: tapping power from a 3 way switch to an adjacent 2 way switch

texts: I have a ceiling fixture that is controlled through 2 3-way switches (power comes from the fixture not to one of the switches).  in the same room, there is a set of wall light fixtures that are tied to one switch installed next to one of the 3-way switches (the power was coming to the single pole switch until we finished the basement and the contractor damaged the wiring without noticing).  can I power the single pole tapping power from the 3-way switch?  will the wall fixtures be tied to the ceiling fixture?  I did a trial but the operation was reversed (i.e. I can only turn the wall lights on if the ceiling lights were off).


texts: Why does a motion detector provide enough power for an LED but not a class 2 transformer?

texts:
So I am a bit out of my league on this so I am looking for help.  I went to HD and bought a few things:

Sprinkler Valve - Rain Bird
745407 Motion Detector (Used to turn on lights)
110vac 60Hz 23W to 24VAC 750 mA class 2 power supply
indoor outdoor cord

I cut the cord and hooked it to the feed into the motion detector and then the used the female plug and hooked it up to the motion out wires.  The thing is if I hook a LED light to the plug the motion works great and turns on the light.  But, it seems that it is not enough juice to turn on the power supply.  I really did not think the power would be downgraded going through the motion detector but it seems like it must be.

I am trying to build my own motion activated sprinkler to scare off ducks from the dock.  Any one has any idea on the correct parts needed to make this happen would be wonderful.  They make them but they are cheap and don't last.  I was hoping to build one that would last and be 110 volt so no batteries would be needed.


texts:
I am talking about a patio heater which looks something like this
Now, it is operationally all fine and I have had no issues for last two years. However, when I touch the pole that the heater is on, it is not 100% unshakable. It is kind-of wobbly. I did search online to see if this is normal behavior but I did not come across anything with authoratitive anwser on this. I am just worried if I missed something during the assembly OR this is just normal behavior. Can anyone with similar patio heater share their experience as to what kind of sturdyness is expexted from this kind of patio heater?


texts: Alternative to using a bearing on threaded rod?

texts: I have a project where I use a threaded rod to allow a piece to move up and down the rod when rotated (much like a deodorant stick) now I need to fix the threaded rod to it's container in such a way that still allows the rod to rotate but not allow it to move any other way. My idea is to use a bearing between the rod and the container. The only way I can think to do so would be to weld the bearing to the rod. Is a simpler way or an already made piece of hardware to do this sort of thing?


texts: How tight does vent screen have to be, to keep out swarming termites?

texts:
So I found some winged "ants" on my roof. My roof and crawl spaces have vents with 1/4 inch wire mesh, very easy for such "ants" to get into.

Of course, they were not ants, they were swarmer termites.  In this case they came from outside the house.  And I happen to know they were drywoods.  That said:

What size mesh is needed to keep out swarmers, without blocking too much ventillation? If you answer, what's your source for the information?


texts: dimmable led bulbs won't work in dimmable fixture

texts:
Our living room has 4 dimmable lights controlled by 1 switch and slider. Many years ago, we replaced the incandescent lights with fluorescent bulbs (we didn't know that fluorescent bulbs don't dim out of the box). A couple weeks ago, some of the fluorescent bulbs randomly stopped working. Some days they'd turn on, other days they wouldn't,so we decided to replace them all with LED bulbs.

However, only one of the LED bulbs will turn on and dim while none of the others will turn on--let alone dim. When I reverted back to fluorescent bulbs, all but one work normally (at least in the 5 hours since reversion to fluorescent).

Do y'all have any tips for troubleshooting? I'd like to use the LEDs from now on.

UPDATE, 2018-01-26: My dad replaced the light fixtures, and now all of the LED bulbs dim properly. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to see what spec/model the old fixtures were before he threw them out.


texts:
Soil is very compact and potentially rocky, I need to get down several feet.  I have at least 5 footer holes to dig.
Thinking of buying a cheap corded 1/2 drill and 18 inch long auger bit set and considering throw away - doesn't matter if I destroy.
This would be for loosening soil.  My understanding is that a full size auger bit will not work on anything but a gas-powered drill.
Will a wood auger bit work in this scenario?
I would loosen the soil with the drill and shovel out.


texts: How to hide patch of mud & oil primer under latex paint

texts:
I put a hole in my wall a while ago. I made a patch for it with a wood backing, two drywall patches and spackle in the middle and on top.

I painted over it with CIL (white eggshell latex) paint/primer. Contrary to the claim on the can, the paint did not stick to the spackle. I ended up peeling it off as well as the area around it revealing some of the old chalk paint as well. Apparently painting latex over latex will "activate" the old paint.

I used more spackle to try to smooth out the damage that was done. I then used Kilz Oil Base primer to seal the spackle. I then used the CIL again on the wall. This time it sticks to the wall.

The problem I'm having is that the patch of wall were I primed it with Kilz is noticeable. Essentially there's an area of the wall that is marked with brush strokes from the oil based paint. I tried to paint over with more CIL. I used a bit more than a gallon of CIL on the entire wall and the patch is still visible. This was roughly 4-6 coats on the wall.

What can I do to hide this? I read that latex paint shouldn't be sanded. I tried it and the sand paper won't grab at it. I suppose I could try mudding the wall with more spackle. But I'm worried about doing it on top of latex paint. I'd also likely increase the area of the problem, not to mention I'll have to use oil primer again.

One suggestion I read on a DIY forum was to use Kilz Build Primer. It seems to be designed for this kind of thing. Should it be oil or acrylic? I'm not sure which one to use. Any thoughts on this? Will it work?

I'd hate to bust out the patch of wall or the whole wall because of this so any advice would be helpful.


texts: Generator carburetor problem, is it the float?

texts:
Hopefully this is an appropriate place to post:

I had to use my generator today and it ran fine for about an hour but when I went outside to check on it, I noticed it was dripping gas from the carburetor!   I shut it down and shut off the fuel and it looks like it is coming from a hole at the top of the carburetor.  If I turn the fuel supply on, it starts dripping again.  Also, the unit will not currently start.

I did drop the bowl and saw that it had gum stuff in it.  Kind of strange considering I just cleaned it before the winter and had run it during the winter without issue.

At first, with the float pushed up, gas would drip down, indicating something wrong with that valve or gummed up SO, I used carb cleaner, cleaned the bowl and sprayed upward in to the carb.   I also sprayed in to the hole that the gas is coming out of and let it drip down through.  I moved the float back and fourth several times.   Now it seems to work fine.  If I let the float hang down, gas comes out to the bowl.  If I push the float up, gas stops flowing.

I do not think there is gas in the float, but I am not 100% sure.

I still have the problem however- if I replace the bowl and turn on the gas, soon after gas starts leaking from the TOP of the carburetor through the hole up there.

This is a Generac 5500 Generator by the way and a Briggs and Stratton engine model 185432 0606E 99052149 by the way.

What do you think is wrong?


texts: Repairing animal damage in concrete driveway

texts:
My driveway has a few separate slabs (is this the right terminology?) and an animal has been digging in the gaps between two slabs. The gap is 1 - 1.5" wide. It looks like the rain is washing away the sand/dirt beneath because I can see open area.

What's my best course of action? I was planning on trying to fill the gaps with sand as best I could through the gap, and then seal the gap with something. Do I want to use something like a  caulk or something more like a tar? Links would be great!


texts:
I installed a submersible water pump in our drinking water cistern less than six months ago and today when I looked at it, I noticed it has significant amounts of rust close to the housing divisions.
Also I don't know what the white substance is, but it could be from the outer coating of the hose.
Is this something to worry about?


texts: Can I use polyurethane to coat a painted wall tile and safely use as a trivet?

texts: I would like to hand paint ceramic wall tiles to use as a food trivets. If I coat the tiles with polyurethane, to prevent the paint from chipping off, will it be safe to use as a trivet for hot pans or will the heat cause damage? I read the comments about wooden trivets but tile is not porous like wood is. If it's not a good idea, what type of coating should I use instead? Thank you.


texts: I just put in egress basement windows in my 1950s house. The issue I'm encountering is that they didn't use forms so the exterior concrete is super rough and doesn't give any easy solution to trim. Hoping some one knows how best to trim this out.


texts: Easy way to find out if this wall is load bearing? (double top plate, but parallel with trusses) with pictures

texts:
It's a single story house (but this is an addition done in the 80's I think).  I know a double top plate usually means it's load bearing, but parallel with trusses means it's usually not load bearing.  Any easy way to tell for sure?

I've attached a few pics.  Here is looking up into the ceiling and also sticking the camera above the ceiling.

Here is a shot of the full attic.


texts: What if I can not connect the ground wire of my new light fixture to an old electrical connection?

texts: I am replacing a bathroom medicine cabinet that has a light fixture attached. The old light fixture only had white and black wires. The new light fixture has white, black, and a copper wire. This is a very old home, and I am assuming that nothing has any grounding. What should I do with the ground wire? Can I leave the ground wire just dangling? Or is there some way that I can/should ground it? It's not my home, and the homeowner will likely not want to pay for any extensive electrical upgrades. Suggestions?


texts: How to permanently get rid of old cigarette smell from previous resident?

texts:
We have recently moved into a rental apartment (built early 1990s).  The previous resident was a smoker, and there is a distinct smell of cigarette smoke.  She lived there for 15 years.  The apartment was newly painted before we moved in.  There are no carpets, curtains, or wallpaper.  It has parquet flooring.  We took over a few pieces of furniture but none with fabric or leather (only wood and glass).  We have tried to spray with a household "anti-tobacco smell" product (brand febreze), but the smell returns within hours.  People with similar problems report they are still facing the smell after 10 years.

What measures are effective to permanently remove the source of old cigarette smell?  Google Search results in a wide variety of partly contradictory recommendations.  This company claims that their ozone generator is more effective than household products, but wikihow states that If the smell has sunk into the walls, floors, curtains, and furniture, you may not get the smell out all the way. Others recommend salmiak, Febreze, candles, orange or sandarac.  But overall, advice varies from "clean well" to "only a complete renovation will work"; for each advice short of complete renovation there is another advice claiming it doesn't work.  Incidentally, we are in Germany and the landlord may be legally responsible to fix it, but that is a question for another site.

Advice on the internet is anecdotal and contradictory.  I'm a scientist and am interested in a permanent, evidence based solution.  Short of burning the building down and rebuilding from scratch, what measures will permanently and completely remove the source of old cigarette smell from the previous resident?


texts: Can I install heat mat and backer board over cork flooring?

texts:
I am installing a new bathroom floor. I plan on getting an electric underfloor heating mat, 2 backer boards for under the heating, screed the mat and tile over this.

My question is can I place the back boards on the cork vinyl(even though it's got glue on top) or do I need to remove the cork.

Another option is cleaning the glue off the cork and using the cork as the subfloor. Is this possible?

Thanks for the help, first timer here.


texts: Benefit to running electric wires through walls vs attic/basement? 1-story house

texts:
We're planning on getting some updates to the electric wiring in our house. Installing more wall outlets, removing some knob & tube in the attic, installing GFCI outlets in required places, and generally getting things up to code (or closer to code).

The house is a 1925 bungalow, 1-story, with an unfinished attic and basement. Plaster walls. No plans to finish the basement at any point; it's used only for storage, work space, etc. All the wiring in the basement is easy to access - no ceiling. A bit less easy to access in the attic, due to insulation. Current wiring is a mix of knob & tube in the walls and attic (yes, possible fire hazard with the insulation), conduit and NM in the basement.

I realize that some of the wiring needs to run through the attic (we have 2 ceiling fans, 1 bath fan, and 2 overhead lights), but for the rest of it, can I have it all run in the basement, or as much as possible, and keep it out of the walls, except when directly underneath a switch/outlet/fixture? I'm not planning on doing the work myself, but I like the idea of being able to see it all, for maintenance and safety reasons, even if it means more linear feet of cable. That's a trade-off I'd be willing to make, if cost were the only factor.

Are there other factors to consider?

All the old knob & tube in the walls and attic would be disconnected and left in place.