texts: Wall plate and subfloor repair in bathroom

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Replacing tile floor in small (6x5) bathroom with tub, on 2nd story of a condo. After pulling tile, noticed some water damage in corner by tub, on the subfloor and the floor plate in the wall (looks like a tile was loose, and kids getting water out of the bath leaked into subfloor). Took out the rot, appears the 2x6 floor plate only rotted less than a 1/3 way back, and just bottom side, and length wise less than a foot. First question is, do I need to have this replaced? The above joists are perpendicular to the wall, so it may be load bearing (but it’s a small length of wall compared to the two long load bearing walls). I’ve seen some wood epoxy products for structural fixes (e.g. conserv epoxy, Abatron epoxy, PC Woody), would these be worth it, or is it fine as is?
EDIT: Learning a little more, and looking in the attic (this bathroom directly below attic level), the roof is a manufactured truss assembly. This (may) suggest the internal walls aren't load bearing. Which could mean it wouldn't be too bad to remove a portion of the 2x6 floor plate to replace.
Second question, I’ve looked into replacing subfloors, adding 2x6 blocks to support the replacement subfloor piece. I usually seen these done with floors with joists, this has floor trusses, anythjng different I should do?Also, there is definitely part of the subfloor under the floor plate that should be replaced. What is the best way to do this?


texts: Could a sweating pipe in the attic drip water onto the ceiling?

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I have a sweating pipe in my ceiling from the AC. I have changed the filter and have tried to clean the coils the best I can. The pipes have no insulation around the sweating pipe.

Would this cause it to drip on the ceiling?


texts: How to keep pine needles out of a gutter?

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The gutters on my house have screens over them to keep out leaves which seems to work but I have pine trees close enough to my house that I get pine needles all over my roof and the screens do nothing for that. Then cleaning out the gutters is actually made more difficult by the presence of the screens. Is there a good way to keep both pine needles and leaves out of the gutters?

The last guy who cleaned my gutters suggested a product which is essentially a foam/sponge fitted to fill the length of the gutter. Water still soaks through and then down the spout but it keeps solids out even if they're pine needles. Anyone know if this is a viable solution?


texts: What is the best approach to repair outside cantilevered wood deck joists with dry rot?

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I have a cantilevered deck that was needing new decking boards. As it turns out it also has some dry rot on the joists that are cantilevered from the house (14ft high, extending 6ft from the house - a maximum of 2" X 12" joist according to OR building code bottom of page 7). I am hoping most of the damage is surface, but in order to to repair the joists w/o full replacement (as recommended here), I would follow the below laid out plan. In addition to the joists, the header joists also has small dry rot area. That would be a straight replacement of the said header joist. I would appreciate any feedback on the process. My brief research shows that best practice is to repair the dry rot, and sister the joists, hence the following plan.

Remove dry rot
Clean and re-fill the dry rot area with appropriate wood filler / epoxy (found it on This Old House)
Add sister joists. [Should new sister joist be attached to house face with 4" X 12" joist hangers around existing cantilevered joist and the new sister joist?]
Replace header joist [Shall I join this header to sister or the original joists?]
Cover all joists/header with water barrier (joist tape or such)
Install railing blocking
Install new decking and railing

I have seen this advice:for sister joining, which has the OP wanting to repair some joists, while others advised replacement. In my case replacing the joists would probably mean much more work than having the small deck is worth, I think that joist sistering may be a way to go.
So any advice when tackling this task would be appreciated, especially on topics of sistering and maximum allowed joist notching.
Some additional resources:
When repairing joists - amount of removed material is of importance (of course), but what is the rule of thumb for sistering to be successful without compromising integrity? Notching is bad - what is allowed?


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Our floors are somewhat bouncy, especially in big rooms with long joists.  I think that the main cause is that they used 2x8 joists on 15-20' spans.

We are going to replace/install hardwood in several areas.  Given that we'll have access to the subfloor, what can be done to make the floors less bouncy?

Note: looks like it's different from the situation described in What are these spongy/soft spots on my hardwood floor?, since the floor moves as a whole and not just in some places and there are no hollow spots there.


texts:
I'm replacing the valve stems for my 1960's bathtub handles. There's a hot and cold handle, and they both are leaking profusely from the stem (not drips, but streams of water).

This picture generally agrees with what I've seen so far -  previously I tried to replace the entire valve stem, but I don't think it's made anymore. The closest I've found is a Danco 10B-9H/C (https://www.danco.com/product/10b-9hc-hotcold-stem-for-gerber-faucets/), but the stem has too many threads to fit my fixture.

I replaced the seat washer, and re-greased it and the bonnet washer (could not find a replacement for the bonnet washer). This fixed the original problem, which was regular dripping from the faucet itself. Now the handles are spewing water when they are turned on. From inspection, it looks to be leaking out of the inside of the packing nut. Based on the picture above, I think it is because I destroyed what little remained of the original packing washer (I soaked the valves in alcohol and cleaned them internally and externally with steel wool). This means that the water is sneaking by the stem threads and leaking out of the front of the packing nut (facing into the bathtub).

Knowing this, I think I have a few solutions. One,  I could use graphite packing string on the stem threads. Two, I could use teflon tape on the stem threads.  Or three, I could use plumber's grease on the stem threads.

Which of these choices is appropriate? Stem threads regularly move (anytime you turn the handle), so I'm not sure any of the above methods could handle that regular motion. I can't find any information telling me if they can. However, I can't locate a new packing washer or stem.

How should I repair this leak?


texts: Should I worry about a siphon with my sump pump?

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I live in a typical suburban home. My sump pump discharges water up from the beneath the slab about 9 feet and moves outside through the rim joist. The pipe then turns into the ground and joins the downspout drain line out to the street.

Do I need to worry about water siphoning back into the basement after a pump cycle during a flood event where the street is filled with water, over the drain line exit?


texts: Water heater pilot light always goes out during the night

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I have an AquaMax 205 water heater. Recently the pilot started going out, so I replaced the thermocouple and cleaned the burner.

After replacing the thermocouple, the pilot would go out sometime through the night. I would like the pilot in the morning and people would use hot water during the day and cause the burner to turn on and turn off and the pilot never goes out. However, when I wake up in the morning, the pilot is always out.

Nighttime temperatures are around 11 to 16 Celsius over the last few weeks.

What could be causing this?


texts: Can a surge protector prevent nuisance AFCI breaker trips?

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I have a problem with AFCI breakers tripping in my 2 and a half year old house. The builder's electrician said that the cause is from power surges coming from the electrical company and that I need to get a surge protector put in at the service.
The breakers are Sqaure-D QO120 single pole plug on neutral. When the trip its about 7 or 8 of them the frig, microwave, dryer, some plugs when the laptop is plugged. This usually happens when it's raining or damp out.


texts: I'm installing a Tesla charger, but I also want to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet so other EV owners can charge in that spot as well, but as it's one spot, both won't be used at the same time. I don't want to have to run two independent lines when only one will be in use at a time. Is there something I could use that would take one line input, and output two separate lines with a toggle switch determining which one is active? And even if so, would such a thing be within code?


texts: Installing a dimmer to control multiple lights

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I recently asked a question about installing a dimmer and got a great reply. Now I want to install another dimmer, but this one might be tricky.

In our hallway there are three lights that are all simultaneously controlled by 3 light switches.

I want to replace one of the 3 light switches with a dimmer so I could use that to dim the lights and the other 2 switches could just remain normal on off switches. Is this possible?

Here is the dimmer I want to use and its instructions:

I opened up one of the light switch fixtures and this is what I got:

So I have four wires going from the switch directly into the fixture. Looking at the instructions I can see what to do if there are 3 wires, but I have four. Can this work and if so how do I hook er up?

EDIT: Ok I read more about this and found that in this kind of setup there should be two 3-way switches and one 4-way switch. It looks like I opened up the 4-way switch right? So does that mean if I open up one of the other switches it will be a 3-way?


texts:
I moved in to a new house a few months ago and the other day I noticed my garbage disposal stopped working. The unit is an Insinkerator Badger 1 with 1/3 HP. When I flip the switch I can hear the unit humming, but nothing happens. The reset button is not out (although I did try pressing it anyway just for fun). The unit plugs in to an outlet under the sink, so I did plug something else in just to confirm that the outlet itself works.

I tried using an Allen wrench to turn the motor from under the sink but no amount of my (admittedly weak) strength was able to get it to move. I can stick something down the sink and rotate both of the things freely, so I don't think there's anything stuck down there.

At this point I'm starting to think the unit just decided to die on me, but I'm not sure if there's something left I should try.


texts: What is the best way to mount a flag on shake (shingle) siding?

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I have a house built in 1955 with shake siding that has been painted. I had a flag bracket mounted on the front wall with flanged anchors, and it held up for a little over a year (I'd take the flag down during storms), but we recently had an unexpected storm that came through while I was at work, and it ripped the bracket out, anchors and all.

What is the best way to mount a flag bracket on a shake siding wall? Everything I've tried searching tries to redirect me to hanging Christmas lights or mounting things on the roof (because "big G" thinks "shake" is synonymous with "shingle", and of course shingles are more commonly thought of as a roofing material than a siding material; "siding" loves to give me useless information about mounting on vinyl siding, which I suspect is largely not applicable here).

While I plan to replace the siding in another 5-10 years, that's not an option right now.


texts: Rolled paint on wall has a patch that goes completely flat (not colour but flat as in looks like it wash brushed not rolled)

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I have a patch on my wall where the rolled paint goes completely flat against the wall so it looks like it was brushed on in that area rather than rolled like the whole wall.
Before I painted it there was a patch of paint there that was really smooth, almost gloss like, I have no idea what was used but it was obviously to cover up something. Anyway, before I painted the wall myself I sanded down the whole wall included that area. I then put an undercoat/primer from Dulux™ over the whole wall.
I noticed when doing the primer it bubbled up in one part of that area but only a small bit and it then dried and looked OK. So I thought, that's it sorted.
When I then rolled the new paint, it looked fine then when it dried, in that area, there was no roller stipple (is that what its called?) it just seemed like it sunk into the wall and laid flat. I left it a day then did a second coat, same thing. I then resorted to dabbing the area with the brush to recreate a similar affect as the roller, but again, it dried and laid flat again!
I think I will end up having to sand back that area and redo it unless anyone has any ideas? Also, I don't want to go through the process then find it does it again anyway. I could, of course just ignore it as it is not noticeable unless close up but it is annoying me as i spent ages trying to do it all right.
Before I forget, I even tried applying a thin layer of filler and then over painting that with the roller and STILL it lays flat!
Picture Added: I have circled the part I mean otherwise where the camera loses focus it also looks flattened, also I will get rid of the obvious bits once figured out why it keeps going flat.


texts: What is 1" minus recycled concrete mean and does it also include stone sizes smaller than 1"?

texts: What does 1" minus recycled concrete mean? Does this also include stone sizes smaller than 1"?


texts: I need to turn off the gas to to the house to do a repair of an appliance without its own valve. It seems stuck as I cannot turn it with a crescent wrench.


texts: I want to install a combo switch/outlet to my existing bathroom light switch

texts: I currently only have a single hot & neutral wire to the switch for my light. Can I install a combo switch/outlet?


texts: Adding a second shower head from 1/2" PEX

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I want to add a second shower head in our shower. Ideally both heads would be controlled by their own temperature and pressure valves.
I do not want to run any new lines from the manifold however. We have a dedicated hot and cold (1/2 PEX) running to the shower right now. Our water pressure  into the house is pretty good (about 120PSI).
My questions are:
Can I tee into the existing 1/2 inch PEX lines and run it to the new shower head and valve?
How much would this affect the water pressure and would you recommend this?


texts: I painted my front steel entry door before sanding it.  I used Glidden Door & Trim Paint and it is globbed all over.  How do I undo/remove the paint?


texts: Neutral Wire is used to carry power to light switch - is this legal?

texts:
Forgive me for my crappy drawing :) to make a long story short I just moved into a home and I am taking a look at one of the lighting jobs. I noticed the light switch had no power feeding it and the "neutral" wire was hot. I was a bit confused and worried.

After doing some testing I realized the white "neutral" wire was actually the wire feeding the light switch power. Then the black "hot" wire was the wire giving the light can its power. (See picture).

Is this legal (in terms of electrical code) and is this safe? Is there any cause of concern since the light switch has no neutral wire connected to it?


texts: Should I put caulk/silicone at base of toilet on hardwood floors?

texts: When installing a toilet in a bathroom with hardwood floors, should I put a bead of silicone or caulk around the base to finish things up? Is this necessary, or is it merely aesthetics? I have heard that I should put silicone down, but not caulk. I'm not sure if this is true or not, or how it's determined.


texts: Can I install a replacement faucet directly onto a laminate countertop?

texts:
I am updating my wet bar area with a new sink and faucet.  Can I install the new
faucet directly onto the laminate countertop so that I can use a separate no-hole sink?


texts:
My sons metal A-Frame swing has started twisting to the point that  instead of swinging in the usual pendulum 12 to 6 motion, he ends up going at 10 to 4 (if that makes sense). I’ve tried moving the legs further apart, and closer together and levelling into out the brackets at the top that the rope hangs on but nothing I do seems to change anything.

Any help would be much appreciated, it was the one activity that kept him quiet during lockdown!


texts: Electrical Appliance Killing Extension Leads

texts:
I've got a circular saw that has been responsible for damaging a total of three extension leads. Not in the typical sharp bit cutting the cable you may have expected.

I've had the saw for a year and use it infrequently. The first extension lead was a few months ago and I assumed was just time for the extension lead to give in. Then this week it killed another, so I tried a third lead which did the same thing (and confirmed a likely correlation). Each time there is no catastrophic failure, the saw simply stops receiving power.

It seems the saw is overloading the extension lead and frying it in some way. The saw still works when connected directly to the mains. However the leads although 'surge protected' seem to be incapacitated. Two of them have a trip button which doesn't seem to have revived them. There are no obvious physical signs that the extension leads are broken, they just no longer supply power to any devices in any of the sockets.

The saw itself was bought here

The first extension reel

The second extension reel

and the third was similar to this

What could be causing this?


texts: I have a bathroom fan light combo controlled by a rotary timer. Can I get the light in the fan to operate with the switch for the vanity light in the same bathroom? Both switches are side by side.


texts: New garage door opener, can't push door down, rail buckles up instead

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I've installed a new garage door opener after my old one just stopped working. It's a Genie PowerMax 1200

I followed the instructions to a Tee. I have a solid door instead of a paneled door, so I installed the mounting rail bracket on header 6 inches over to door's highest point while opening.

The door bracket also needed to be attached slightly differently due to the one-piece door, but that's also done.

So now on to the clusterf*ck. When I went to initially close the door for the first time (you start in the up position) instead of pushing the door down, the whole rail went up
and buckled. It's as though it needs more force to overcome the door's rolling friction resistance than the rail can handle and so it buckles.

Anyways, I managed to re-straighten the rail (I think), but now I just don't know what to do. Does anyone have any ideas.

I have giant springs on the side of my door, presumably those make it easier to lift the door up. Maybe they are adding to much resistance to get the door moving?

Thanks!


texts: I have old plaster walls in my house that had been walpapered.  I have removed the wallpaper and cleaned the walls.  I am ready to prime and patch, but am not sure what kind of primer to use.  The plaster does not appear to have ever been painted.  Can I use a water based primer or should I use oil based?  If I use an oil based primer, can I use latex paint over it or do I have to use oil based paint too?


texts:
My entire backyard is patio stones which surround the pool. Some are cracking and they are not all the same size. It's a bit of an eyesore.
It is cost and time effective to replace the patio stones on the outer edges of the yard with grass. What is involved in doing so?


texts: We have a small baseboard heater in our kitchen that we never use.  It has it's own thermostat and turn on and off switch, but is on the same breaker as the other 4 baseboard heaters in the house...all that have their own thermostats and on and off switches.  Can I just cut the wires (after turning off at the breaker panel) cap them, label them and then place a plate over the opening?


texts:
This picture is from a 2nd floor apartment in Colorado. 1st floor is empty, unoccupied retail space. In the apartment's kitchen area there is a enclosed area which is finished with what looks like mold resistant drywall:

In the box around this area, there is a small, green cap, which I have no idea about what it is for:

There is no discernible writing on it. I'd guess that it connects to the retail space below, but the space has never been used or rented.

Any idea what it could be?


texts: Electrical problem garage light in ceiling

texts: I have a light in the ceiling of my garage.  I checked the wiring and it shows 120 Volts.  However, when I install a light bulb in the socket the voltage drops to 44 volts and the light bulb does not work.  It is only on this one circuit.  Everything else in the garage works ok.


texts: I have mounted a Clearstream Antenna in my attic of a single story home, which is connected to my tv's via cable. Should I ground it and if so how? Can I run a Copper wire from the splitter to the ground in my electric  or is there a better/easier way?


texts: Motion Sensing Light Switch Requires Minimum Load of 60W - can I use with LEDs?

texts:
I've just bought a Luxomat 2-wire Indoor 180-N-R Motion sensing light switch.
Manual here: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/BEG/BE180R2W_User%20Instructions.pdf
I was fitting the device and when reading the instructions discovered it has a minimum load of 50 Watts. I would ideally want to use this with an LED bulb but that is just 7 Watts. Apart from buying a 60 Watt filament light bulb what options do I have? Is it possible to use this with an LED bulb?
Location: UK


texts: How do I transition from sheet vinyl to bare concrete?

texts: I'm laying sheet vinyl directly over concrete in a basement bathroom. The rest of the basement is bare concrete. Do I just glue down the edge really well where the vinyl ends? I found an "Armstrong 1/8" VCT to Nothing Reducer VT525" online. it looks like this would just be glued down to the concrete right next to the end of the vinyl. Is that the right transition for this application? Lowes has a similar looking "FLEXCO Reducer 1-in x 36-in Cappuccino Vinyl Reducers Floor Transition Strip" Thanks.


texts: Can I glue the float back onto linkage to my toilet fill valve?

texts:
The part (circled in red) has snapped off - I think it belongs to the entry fill valve. I have placed the knife in there to stop the cistern from filling and overflowing.

Should I try and super glue the black bit attached to the metal connector (at the bottom of the red blob, you can see the black plastic bit that has snapped off)?

Or, should I replace the entire unit? If so anyone know what this unit is and where I can get it from?


texts: How should I support this large drywall patch?

texts:
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.

The existing hole with plumbing:

The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):

Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:

Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:

Dry fit of the whole patch:

My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.


texts: How can I find a leak in underground plumbing?

texts: We moved into a home a couple years ago that was 1600 sq ft from a 3700 sq ft home. We were shocked that the power bill here was about 30% more than the big house but I suspected a water leak somewhere at the time. We cant find anything but we tried to dig a hole in the yard that filled with water... so we dug into the sand layer hoping it was ground water that would dissipate into sand but it just got worse... and our power bill is now up another 27%. We dug up a few pipes around the hole looking for leaks and cant find them. We don't know what to do? No one around here... well drillers plumbers excavators knows what to do? We are on a well and have all electric everything including a water pump type heating and cooling system. We did turn off the water last night and the power to the water pump and found that over a couple hours time we lost all the water in our reserve tank. Does this sound like a leak to you?? Please PLEASE help us!? We have exposed pipes now and they will freeze this hole is not drying up and we can sump pump the water out but if it is leaking water we don't want to pay to pump water out that isn't ground water. We have of course given up on the root cellar idea but we cant just fill in the hole... it wont likely dry and we need to find the source of the water somehow or at least verify that its not a leak and its just ground water or an underground spring!!


texts:
I have a brand new electric range that I am having a problem with and would appreciate some insights so that I can determine whether its the appliance or my electricity is at fault.

When I turn on 2 or more burners on the stove-top or 1 burner and the oven, I can feel the plug getting extremely hot and the range will just shut off after some time. After opening the plug, I see the fuse is blown. I replaced the fuse and the same thing happened again. When having only 1 burner on then everything is fine.

I've done lots of reading but I am still unable to understand why is this happening.

The range's plug is rated 250V and fitted with a 13A fuse. It is plugged into a wall socket. I have checked the main circuit breaker (100 AMP MAX - 30 AMP for each switch), when turning off one specific switch only the wall socket used by my range is turned off, so no other appliances are loaded on the same circuit.

With that said, what could be causing this? Is it my circuit not having sufficient power for the range? But if this was the issue then, according to stuff I read, the circuit breaker switch should trip not the plug's fuse get blown.

When opening the plug, I see the wire going to the right side pin fried but others are fine.

Appreciate if someone can provide some info.

EDIT:
Thanks to gbulmer now I see it is wired incorrectly! I will rewire it correctly but I have a side question. Could the incorrect wiring done damage to the appliance or not?


texts:
I’m redoing the tiles for a 3’x3’ shower stall. It’s in the corner of a room, with the side wall an exterior wall, and the wall with shower head is a dividing wall between condos. There is a half wall as the 3rd wall. I’m looking to install a niche, but I don’t want to put it in the exterior wall, so I’m planning to put the niche in the shower head wall. But that wall has non-standard stud spacing, so I’m going to build out the niche instead of using a pre-built niche box like ezniche. Howeever, in pulling out the insulation I discovered there isn’t drywall directly behind the studs in the corner but rather a larger empty cavity (see pics, its small, to the right directly behind the shower faucet studs begins a cinder block wall). In total the depth is about 10”. Id like to built it here but I’m a bit worried about (a) how to build the back of the niche, so I don’t have to build all the way back the 10” and (b) whether there is any issue with the exterior wall being next to this cavity, causing cold air to come in through the niche.
Any advice welcome


texts: What's the significance of orbit diameter in a random orbit sander?

texts: I've been looking at random orbit sanders and noticed that they have different orbit diameters, and some models even offer settings for it. Does the orbit diameter affect material removal, or smoothness of finish or what?


texts: Replacing smart switch 3 gang box neutrals all tied up

texts:
Just moved in. Have a three gang box trying to replace switches with smart switches (they each require neutral).
I'm unsure though how I'm supposed to wire the neutrals, since they are all bundled up into one wire nut.
I could cram the neutrals in, but that seems dumb and unsafe. Is there a recommended, safe way to do this?


texts: water flow difference between 1/4 turn and multi turn shut off valve

texts: I replace my multi turn toilet shutoff valve with a 1/4 turn shutoff valve, now the water flow is much slower is there a difference in the amount of water that flows through the 1/4 turn valve


texts: Troubleshooting well pump low pressure shutoff

texts:
The pressure switch controlling my shallow well jet pump has a low pressure shutoff.  For the past couple of months it has been tripping due to low pressure more frequently than I would expect - about every two weeks.

The odd thing is that this happens during periods when there is little or no usage.  I am confident that my system is fairly tight.  We recently had a 12 hour power outage and lost very little pressure over that time.

The pressure switch too is fairly new.  Less than 2 years old.

Any thought about where I can begin trouble shooting this problem?  Should I try opening the well so I can take a look at the foot valve?


texts: I accidentally let some hot pellets fly out of my pellet stove while stupidly cleaning the glass while it was on. The few pellets melted some of the carpet. I put them out with some water. When i went to try and pick them out of the carpet I leaned my hand on the stove a received a good shock. My pad under the carpet is solid concrete. After a bit of trial and error I found that I do not receive a shock while touching anything dry. I unplugged the stove and still received a shock. I pulled up some of the carpet and there is no wiring under the carpet. What could this possibly be?


texts: Placing wooden box underground; how to protect?

texts:
I'm getting ready to start working on my property this summer and instead of hauling a bunch of tools back and forth all the time, I'm going to build a large wooden box to keep all that stuff underground, away from the elements as well as anyone who might be moving around the area. It's fairly isolated but I don't want stuff just lying around, just to be safe.

Of course, I'd like the box to last for years, so my worry is how long would the wood last against the dirt? My brain is telling me to wrap it in black plastic to keep water and insects out but is there a better way?

Thanks!


texts: Swan SDW2011B dishwasher water inlet error

texts:
I've just bought a second hand Swan SDW2011B dishwasher. After connecting it to the water mains I decided to try it and run an empty washing cycle.
When turned on I can hear the water outlet pump running, followed by the water inlet pump letting water in. It then starts the washing cycle itself, and I can hear water coming out from both rotating arms (also, if I open the door during this stage I can definitively see water inside the machine). It continues for a couple of minute, then the water drains out, the inlet pump starts running again but there's no water coming in. After that, the start/pause LED flashes; according to the manual, that means there's no water coming in.

I am baffled at how this is happening, since the inlet pump does work fine for the first water in cycle. I've obviously checked the water inlet hose and filter and they're all clear; after all, at some point the is water running through them.
Any ideas of what it could be?


texts: Water leaking at hose-faucet quick connector

texts:
I have a faucet positioned near the ground at the entrance of my home. I use it for watering the lawn by connecting a ~40m hose to it via an adapter (blue) and a quick connector.

If I don't connect a hose, everything is fine, water is running without leaking. But after connecting a hose, the water starts leaking from all possible places in the quick connector (even under little pressure).

I noticed that water runs back out of the hose when I just pour it without connecting - is it normal? Is it what causes the leak?

Could the problem be in very low positioning of the faucet relative to the ground?

Note that I tried 2 different connectors, 2 different adapters and 3 different hoses.

How can I solve this problem?


texts: How to drill a hole in a space too small to fit a standard manual or electric drill?

texts:
I have a very narrow kitchen cupboard I'd like to make some changes to (add shelves maybe). Almost any change will require drilling holes though, and there's not enough room for a standard electric or manual drill, so the first problem to solve is how to drill holes. It's only around 170mm wide.

How can I drill a hole with only around 170mm of space?

The holes would only need to be about 12-15mm deep.


texts: Should a generator transfer switch have continuity between all contacts in the "Gen" position?

texts:
I am finishing up installing my generator transfer switch today and I think I have a wiring problem...

I have a six circuit transfer switch wired in with a power inlet box outside. Everything is wired in and I am doing the final check before hooking up the generator. For checking the wiring, I am doing a continuity check between all four conductors. When the transfer switches are all in the "Line" position, I have continuity between neutral-ground and none in the other five combinations (L1-L2, L1-N, L2-N, L1-G, L2-G). With the transfer switches set in the "Off" position, I have the same continuity readings.

The problem (I think) is that when I put the transfer switches in the "Gen" position, I have continuity between every conductor!

I am 99.9999999999% certain this ain't right. Any ideas on where to look first? I am headed back to the basement to open the panel again and double check all the obvious things.


texts: Is my garage safe with a 30amp breaker and some odd wiring

texts:
I recently bought a house and have found several things wrong and I'm trying to prioritize which to fix first. I have some very limited electrical knowledge but not enough to know if this needs to be fixed immediately or can wait. I live in Texas. I'll try to use correct terminology but no gaurantees
I went into my attic to see about adding a recepticle in my (attached) garage. I find the junction box and see that the romex is just running straight from the direction of the main breaker box over insulation and whatever else is up there no staples. This is very thick 10gauge romex.
Inside the junction box it is wire nutted to three other cables one 10gauge, and two 14gauge cables. The 10gauge is then ran to a ceiling cicle box which holds the recepticle my garage door opener is plugged into, then continues on to be spliced (using only wire nuts and electrical tape). One (14gauge) leads to a switch and the other (10 maybe 12gauge different color romex) to an outside light controlled by the switch.
Back to first junction box. The two 14 gauge romex cables are ran to 15amp recepticals on two different walls (I was wanting a recepticle on the third wall). One of these recepticles has a single red very thickly insulated regency wire ran from it to a switch and continue on to the overhead light fixture. A single white common wire (same type very thick insulated wire) is ran to the fixture from the other receptical for some reason, and no ground wire.
At the main breaker box I find the 10 gauge cable is attached to a 30amp breaker and is just ran out of a hole punched out of the bottom of the box, ran up the side of box, and into the soffit.
I need to know if there are any immediate hazards I should fix this weekend. Then what is going to need to be switched out to get to/near code. I know the electrical taped splice needs to be boxed, but the 30amp breaker i haven't a clue if it's a hazard or if its fine since only 15amp recepticals are attached. The 30amp breaker is not ground or ark fault.


texts: How to fix my LED track lighting that is flickering?

texts:
I replaced all of the bulbs in the track light with LEDs. I also replaced the two switches with LED compatible smart switches (dimmers). The furthest light on the track has been flickering and recently the next one has started to flickers as well. The flickering started when I changed the bulbs to LED and I figured that changing the switches would fix it, it didn't. Do I have to replace the track lighting completely with "LED Compatible" ones?

NOTE: The house was built about 19 years ago.


texts: Anchoring post brackets to textured concrete slab

texts:
I want to bolt posts to a concrete patio to make a roof.  The surface of the concrete has texture to it. I figured the texture is meant for a better grip in wet weather.
Should I smooth out the concrete areas where posts will be, so the bracket and concrete have full surface contact or is it fine to bolt brackets as it is?
If I should - would some watery cement/sand mix do the job? Texture is 1mm pores at most, I was thinking of filling those up with cement or other solution.


texts:
I’m planning on building swings for my kids according to this rough design that I came up with here.

Essentially it’s a very simple two posts, one crossbeam layout.  The posts of two 12 foot 4x6s on either side and one more 12 foot 4x6 across the top.  Side posts held together with two 2 foot sections of 4x6 anchored through all three pieces with two 12” 1/2 galvanized bolts.

Cross beam would sit on one of those two foot sections and in sandwiched between the two 12ft 4x6s on either side. ( Hope my description makes sense, I’ve included a crude drawing below which should help. )

My questions are.

1. Will the bolt plus support from the 2 foot sections of 4x6 that the cross beam will sit on be strong enough to support the beam and swinging children? Or do I need to consider notching?

2. With the design as calling for vertical posts, will that provide enough strength if I go down 3-4 feet with each of the side posts?

3. Any other tips for a first timer would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Socket wrench: Is there an advantage of a 3/8" drive over a 1/4" drive?

texts:
I notice that socket wrenches come in a variety of sizes. For homeowners and DIYers, it's common to see socket wrenches which come in two sizes: a 3/8" drive, 1/4" drive and sometimes 1/2". The 3/8" drive is often 30% more expensive or more.

Is there an advantage to having a 3/8" drive over a 1/4" drive?

I won't do major automobile work with these tools.


texts: Double gang outlets with more than four outlets

texts: I can find adapters for single gang outlets with up to six receptacles.  However, I can't find any way to get more than four outlets in my double gang outlets.  Does anything like this exist.  My wife needs more outlets in our bathroom.


texts: How to choose a kitchen faucet compatible with old sink and new counter top?

texts:
I need to replace my kitchen faucet which just broke. However, we're already planning to have a new counter top installed in about 3 months (I was hoping the old faucet would last).

I want to buy a quality faucet now and move it to the new counter. The existing sink is a typical (here in US) stainless steel "rim on top of counter" mount. The new sink will be an under the counter type. The sink has 3 holes on 4" centers.

What do I need to consider to ensure the new faucet will work in both situations? Is the difference in thickness from the old sink to the new mount on the counter a problem? Can I safely assume the new counter fabricator/installer can make appropriate holes for any faucet that fits the current sink?


texts: What could that red splatter have been under my toilet seat?

texts:
I moved into a new place, the bathroom smelled like piss so I scrubbed every inch of it. Still smelled like piss. Then I got more aggressive and ripped up the toilet seat that I assumed wasn't liftable at first (since it was stuck pretty hard). Turns out it was just a regular toilet seat but with this dark red splatter under it, especially concentrated around the rim that the seat rests on. I cleaned that too, came off pretty easily. Now I'm waiting to see if the smell comes back..

I'm curious though, what could that red stuff have been? Didn't look like blood, it was more.. slimy looking. Sorta like if you were to squirt some ketchup on the wall in small speckles.


texts: What's the bracket used to fix a kitchen faucet called?

texts:
I've got a broken kitchen tap/faucet, and it's because there is a plastic bracket that fits under the sink that has broken.

I need to know the name of it because I can't search for a replacement without knowing the correct search term!

It's got a 30MM hole in it and is otherwise triangular; it fits here (excuse the ascii art!)

   //==\\
   ||
   ||
   ||
  +||+      <-- faucet
----------  <-- sink level
  ||||      <-- plastic bracket goes here
  ----      <-- metal plate

This is the rough shape;

  <-------------------->
    \       ___       /
      \    /   \    /
        \  \___/  /
          \     /
            \_/


texts: Does each zone in a two-zone heating system have its own pilot light?

texts: I have two zone heating, in the basement and upstairs where we really live. The pilot light is lit downstairs, but the heat isn't working upstairs (the air is not getting hot). Is there also a pilot light in our unit upstairs that may have blown out that is keeping the upstairs cold?


texts:
I have an iron pipe underneath my slab. I busted it this morning when I was working on an adjacent pipe. It is a seam-split, parallel to the pipe's axis (i.e. the split runs long-ways on the pipe).
I feel like there's something I should be able to do to fix the dilemma, given that the pipe is right there, i.e. I already have a giant hole in the wall, the slab is already dug up adjacent to the pipe, I can reach underneath AND I have a direct vertical access to the hole, only about 6 inches from the split.
I've heard about these sort of "stents" similar to an artery stent, made to patch pipes from the inside - I've also considered cutting the pipe off underneath the slab and attaching a new fitting (though I would feel like the pipe, at this point, wouldn't be durable enough to accept a new fitting if it's in the habit of splitting at the seams).
I've also given some consideration to fiberglass repair kits, like those sold by Fernco
I really would like some input from others. What are my options to fix the dilemma?

Thanks


texts: Cut 2" square cube from top of wood post for 2"x2" wood rail?

texts:
I would like attach a 2"x2" wood rail so that it's flush inside of the 4"x4" wood post, like in the drawing I've included.

My question is: how would I be able to cut out the 2" cube in the 4" wood post so that the 2" rail fits nice and flush in the wood post? What tools would I need and is it something that a novice wood DIY guy could do?


texts: what is the brown foam and sludge in my water softener brine tank?

texts:
My water softener's brine tank has a brown foam on top of the water.  the water itself has brown particles in it.  My plumber said this is brown "iron" algae and it will not harm the system.  but he also said the crud can clog the inlet filter to the water softener.  Since the softener usually fails to complete a regeneration successfully, I am worried that this sludge is causing those failures.

I tried cleaning out the tank by bailing out all of the water and salt.  I then scrubbed the inside of the tank before replacing salt and then added some chlorine bleach.  Two weeks later the brown foam and sludge is still there.

What is this stuff and how do I get rid of it for good?


texts:
The previous homeowners ran the plumbing for the upstairs bathroom through one of the downstair bedroom closest.  They actually built wire shelving around them.  Obviously, when using the bathroom upstairs, the noise is very loud in the downstairs bedroom.

What would be the best way for me to box the pipes in and insulate them from making noise?  I'd love to board them up and build built in shelving out of wood. We live in the south, so freezing isn't really an issue.  I plan on disconnecting the outlet.

Thanks!


texts: Dishwasher won't drain between cycles but will empty using cancel button

texts: I can't get my whirlpool dishwasher to empty between cycles,,,I did change the control board and it didn't work,,it will empty with the cancel button, I do not have a disposal I cleaned out the bottom and cleaned the check valve,


texts: Removing white layer which appears on floor after spilling water

texts:
I'm pretty careless and sometimes spill a bit of water on our floor. When I do, some strange white layer appears on the floor within a minute. I took some photos to demo. Usually it gets much much worse, but I didn't want to leave the floor wet for long just to demonstrate.

If you leave something moist on the floor for an hour without noticing, it can be almost like someone drew on it with chalk. Attempts to scratch it off result in some weird grime peeling off, which I assume can't be good as it must be a part of the flooring.

What's the proper way to remove the layer after a spill?


texts: How to install electrical cables in order

texts:
My ceiling light cables was loosen. I tried to remove them, sharpen them for better electrical contact, but i forgot to reinstall them in order.
Please help me. Why i can't upload image over this thread?
Thank you.


texts:
I am remodeling a bathroom to add a shower to a previously tub only bathroom. It is an older home (Built late 40's) and I believe the two interior walls are lathe and plaster the exterior wall I believe is cinder block with a plaster finish.
The walls are not perfectly flat there is some minor bowing.

Can I apply the tile directly to the plaster without adding cement board?
How much bowing is too much to fix with quick set?
Any other words of advise?

Thanks,


texts: How do I add support blocking for a floating sink (when the wall framing is metal studs)?

texts:
I'm installing a floating sink and think I need to install blocking between the studs. I would normally open the drywall at the correct height and use a 2x6 between the studs. But this is going into a high-rise condo building and the studs are metal (not wood)... is there an alternate solution?
Also, if the wall is tiled, is the additional behind-the-wall support needed? or should the tile and mortar on top of the drywall be sufficient support?


texts: Can I accelerate the cure time for acrylic caulk?

texts:
This is related to this question:

Can I accelerate caulk drying by using a fan or heater on it?

...but that question kind of veered off into talking mostly about silicone caulks.

I'm trying to caulk parts of a deck I just built (namely around the railing posts). It's wet and cold (pacific northwest) and the silicone caulk I initially used never set after 3 days. So I thought I'd tray an acrylic based one (DAP Dynaflex 230). Can I speed up the cure time on this with some technique? Perhaps heat? I can't find any definitive answer as to whether heat helps acrylic caulk cure faster. I can only find references that heat does not help silicone caulk and actually is a way to remove silicone caulk.


texts: how to fasten wood joist to cinder block notch

texts: I want to lay three 2x4 in the cinder block notch(as shown in the pic) as joist for synthetic deck, I need to fasten the wood to the cinder block in order to align the three 2x4 and to make sure it doesn't move, I thought about filling the notch with new concrete and bonding agent but not sure if such a small notch of concrete will provide enough strength and durability. I might be able to put in an angled screw or nail into the wood and block, but not sure if that is the best option. Any advice is appreciated


texts: How big is a framed opening for a door relative to the finished door opening width?

texts:
How much space should be allowed between studs to allow for a door?

For example, if the finished door has a 30" opening, then what should be the distance between the framing studs that enclose the door?


texts: Recently I turned the light switch and my ceiling fan/ light flickered a few times and then turned on.  The next time I turned it on there was nothing so I tried the ceiling fan itself and it came on but no light.  I shut it off and tried it again and no fan no light.  Is this dangerous?  Could there be a fire?  I think I might just need a new light/ceiling fan.  Please help.


texts: Replacing Drywall Railing with Glass Railing

texts:
I would like to replace dry-wall railing that separates the 2nd floor loft with glass...but it may be a bit more complicated.

Background:

Two stories
Vaulted roof
Ground Level has high vaulted ceiling
Second floor is a loft with flat ceiling
Roof is supported by truss-system which is in the attic of the second floor.
The truss-system is supported by the outside walls and the wall that separates the 2nd floor from the first-floor.
This  wall has 2 large openings or 'windows' (10 foot & 7 foot)...or you can look at this a dry-wall railing.

I would like to replace the drywall railing with glass.  Or in other words, I would like to remove the bottom of the windows.

Today I poked a hole in the drywall railing to see what's going on underneath the drywall.  I see that the top of the trailing is a double header (2-2x6).

I don't think they are load bearing but could these drywall railings be managing part of the load?  Or providing the function of a shear-wall?


texts: I’m running 6/3 Romex through a concrete block wall to the outside.  Can I use a 1” LB conduit body on the outside of the wall to receive the Romex without splicing?  Then will use 1" SCH 80 to the subpanel.


texts: Do I need to protect all wiring in an attic when adding a permanent ladder?

texts: I am wanting to add a permanent attic ladder to create storage space in a big attic. There is already exposed wiring in a few places in the attic. If I add a permanent ladder, does that then mean that according to code that all attic wires now need to be protected? Some of the cable would be covered by 3/4" plywood for flooring, but other cable is hanging above in the rafter braces. If I add this ladder, what are some different options to protect this hanging cable so it meets code? Or is that really necessary if it's not in the main part of the attic for storage that will have the plywood flooring?


texts: Why does water and gunk back up through the overflow hole in the bathroom sink?

texts:
When I run the water in my bathroom faucet it sometimes (but not all the time) slowly starts to creep up the overflow hole and pour back into the sink.  Included with the water is black and grey gunk.

The thing that puzzles me is that even when this happens, the main drain functions fine and the sink itself doesn't back up or start to fill with water (or at least it doesn't do so noticeably).  From my limited understanding of how the sink is laid out under the surface (including the overflow) I can't for the life of me figure out where the clog is and exactly what is going on.

Should I pour bleach or draino down the main drain and overflow drain?  Should I buy a snake and try to snake out the main drain and overflow drain?


texts: Measuring clearance height for dishwasher

texts:
I am purchasing an 18" dishwasher but not installing it. I have to make sure it is the right size so that there are no issues when the installer comes. I have no idea how to install appliances. My existing cabinets have a base a few inches high under them. Where should I measure the clearance height from in order to get an appropriately sized dishwasher? The dishwasher will be replacing the cabinet and drawer here:

Should I go all the way to the floor, or to the top of the base? Also, should I go all the way up to the underside of the white counter top, or just up to the bottom of the horizontal wood panel right underneath it?

I don't have a picture of the inside, and not sure if this matters, but the inner floor of the cabinet is at the top of the base (i.e. it's more of a "platform" that the cabinet sits on, sorry I don't know the right terminology).

Also (again, not sure if this matters), much to my pleasant surprise I am getting new counter tops at the same time, if that affects the available options.


texts: I have seen other answers and questions about this and my specific problem doesn't seem to be answered, basically the gas hob I have won't light completely or it won't light occassionally and in some cases I have to light the gas hob manually on a higher setting as on the lower setting the hob doesn't have a complete ring would this be a gas hob fault or a circuit fault of some kind.


texts: Should I change the routing of the return air flex duct?

texts:
I've been in the attic quite a bit before the summer, and every time I look at the duct work, I keep wondering if some crazy/lazy person did it. For example, I have a flex duct running from the main trunk that does a 180 degree turn around a roof truss simply because the register box opening faces 'away' from the trunk.

The photo below shows the way the return duct is routed, bent around a roof truss.

My question is, should I reroute it so it goes straight up? That is, where the yellow arrow is pointing.

To explain a bit further, the green rectangle is an outside corner, and there is a half wall (from the perspective of the attic) that runs in the direction of the red arrows, up to the point where the duct lies on top of the ceiling.

The diagonal red arrows also happen to point to the sad insulation job that is clinging on for dear life against the drywall. I plan to fix this at some point.

To continue the first question, if I were to run it straight up, what would be the best way to insulate the wall (and/or duct together)?

For reference, this is a photo of the living space interior of that attic area.


texts:
I have been thinking of adding a screen door to an existing sliding glass door on my balcony.

I measured my door frame and purchased a screen door, now I am not sure how to install it.

Can I install the door without removing the glass door from its place?
I fear that once I remove it from the track I will not be able to put it back.


texts:
I have a generator with a briggs and stratton engine which kept dying on me. While trying to find out why, my neighbor helped me disassemble the carburetor. Finally, a week later a part arrived and I am trying to put everything back together. I tried my best to pay attention to what he did, but alas, I am only human and cannot recall where two parts came from. I even went and asked him and he cannot recall either.

I went through the parts manual and am 99% sure that one of the items (I believe the left one) is the shield-heat (#725) and one might be (kinda looks like) a piston assembly (#25), but super seriously doubt it as we did not mess with the pistons at all.

Both items have the same outside diameter, but one of them has a much wider inside diameter. One of them must connect two different fuel lines (assuming the one on the left which I assume is the shield-heat).

Can anyone identify these mystery pieces?


texts: How to light the pilot for an old Gas Heater

texts:
We have moved in to a new home (new for us!) and we noticed that there was no heat coming from the base board. I tried to read the instructions on the Gas Heater in the basement and it talks about the need to light the pilot. I've posted pictures of the instructions and the Heater below. I looked up this video to figure out how to light it. The instructions in the video are very similar to that of the instructions posted on the Heater.

But I'm not sure where the pilot is on the system, the knob to turn it off (I can turn it off the switch at the circuit break however). Can you guys help me locate it on the image below and any instructions that can help us? Thanks.


texts: Ceiling drywall crack recurring problem at screw location

texts:
I have a drywall crack in the ceiling that keeps coming back. It is at the location of the drywall screw. Last year I applied a regular drywall patch and then painted over when it dried. But less than a year later it came back. I live in Mid Atlantic US and there is some structure expansion/contraction between summer and winter times. What should I do for the crack not to be coming back? On the picture there is crack location next to wall corner, the screw is on the ceiling side.
Thanks,
DV


texts:
I recently acquired a property which has a separate guest house (or sauna house).
The building is recently built, 55 sq. meter, concrete foundation, 300mm block walls with 50-75mm polystyrene insulation with central heating (fluid underfloor with thermostats in every room).
The only heat source is currently a sauna woodburning stove. However, after 6 hours of continuous burning, the fluid temperature in heating system gets barely over ambient temperature. The heating system appears to be working correctly- system holds pressure, circulation pump is running. The water pipes from stove are cold near the stove (while the sauna-side of stove is scalding hot, so I'm fairly sure the fluid is circulating through stove, but the heat output from stove seems inadequate.
Previous owner was an avid sauna-enjoyer, so it was not a problem for him to burn 3 times a week during winter to maintain decent temperature in this house, but me- not so much. I would rather take my sauna (and burn wood) once a week at most.
To me, the solution appears to be improving heat transfer from stove to heating system.
I have seen two options- additional heat exchanger in the rocks of sauna, or a heat exchanger on the flue.
To me, the flue heat exchanger seems a more efficient way, but I'm not sure how to even ballpark estimate the heat output from such heat exchanger.
What I do know is the average mass of wood going in the stove, and can easily measure exhaust gas temperature. Manufacturers of flue heat exchangers do not provide efficiency and expected heat output numbers.
Can someone suggest either:

A source of information on expected heat output of flue heat exchangers,
A method to at least estimate the heat output, so I can decide, if it'll even make a dent in heating budget in my situation?


texts: I just moved into 1920's house and would like to install a chandelier. There are 3 wires tied together and one separate. They are not color coded. All are in some sort of fabric insulation and pretty thick. Which one I connect to black and which to a white from my fixture?


texts: Prevent water seepage through concrete block foundation

texts:
Earlier this week we had a really warm day which was welcomed by many after such a long cold winter. That night I came home to find a small puddle forming on my basement floor. I followed the water back to an unfinished corner of the basement and pulled back the insulation to find a half a dozen or so wet concrete blocks.

This is the first time we have had water in the basement and my guess is with the warm weather and the only thaw piece of ground being next to the foundation, the water only had one place to go and after the ground got over saturated it began to seep in.

This spring, I plan on revisiting the landscaping in this corner of the house to look for low spots in the grading and drainage. We do our best to keep our gutters free from ice build up and what not, but are there additional things I can do to prevent water seepage through a concrete block foundation?


texts: how do I level the floor in a sunk in living room

texts: My home has a step down living room.  It has carpet on it, but i want to make the floor level with the rest of the house it is about 2.5 inches step down.  People keep tripping.  I then either want to put new carpeting in or tile floor.


texts: Remove adjustable pipe clamp without head

texts:
I'm attempting to replace a bathroom sink drain and figured this rubber flexible coupling would be a prime spot to disconnect the old. However the two clamps don't seem to have a slot for a screwdriver to undo/adjust.

Front:

Back (no the slight line is not an indentation for a screwdriver).

Is there a special trick to adjust/loosen these clamps or will I just have to cut it off?


texts:
I can buy tree stakes, which are 32mm x 32mm x 1.2m quite easily. However on occasion I need something slightly thicker, say 50mm x 50mm or 75mm x 75mm but of equal or shorter length (<1.2m), and sometimes I need those tree stakes, but shorter. Used for various things around my allotment, driven into the ground with a lump hammer.

The thicker timber is always flat ended, and never spiked. The thinner timber once cut produces a flat ended off cut. Is there a way, other than manually planing the timber into a point, to create this spike. I almost want a very large pencil sharpener.

What I know I don't want is the metal spikes that are used for fencing, as these are costly and pointless for my applications. I have tried to saw the end into a spike, but as I am unable to do this evenly around the edge when driven into the ground its never straight. The timber is too thick to whittle.


texts: How to even dents and scrape marks over entire wall

texts:
Our hallway is painted brilliant white eggshell but has quite visible dent and scrape marks under the paint. What is the best way to even out the wall?
We will eventually cover a lot of the wall with artwork so we're thinking to spackle the worst looking areas (rather than the entire wall) and then paint over those areas with the correct existing eggshell colour but having never used spackle before I'm concerned this might make some parts of the wall look entirely different.
Images for reference (ignore the iPhone white balance making the colours a bit strange!):


texts: Is a gradual 3/4 inch rise acceptable under carpet?

texts:
I have a change in subfloor height to contend with. For whatever reason at one doorway of the house the subfloor was built 3/4" (19 mm) higher than the neighboring section.

I can install a tapered board here so that the rise would take place over about a 5" (125 mm) run. However with carpet over this I am concerned it may not be visible enough and could be a trip hazard.

Any tips on whether this is really a concern and if so what to do about it?

There is no practical way to alter the construction to get all the subfloor in the same plane. But I might be able to extend the run of the transition to about 10" with some localized alterations to the subfloor just at this doorway. The doorway is through a 10" thick wall.


texts: Basement Wall with Stucco/Concrete that needs to be removed

texts: Just bought a 1960 house with unfinished portion of a basement that has had previous water intrusion and the crack has been injected. There are a few lingering cracks I want to deal with. Wall has weird stucco/popcorn type of concrete coating, swirled on about 1/16 inch thick. I want to put liquid rubber primer and a sealant on this entire wall. Can I just primer it then seal it with a liquid rubber product as it is or should I get to bare concrete? Thanks!


texts: How can I continue a circuit from a light switch through a light using 12/3 cable?

texts:
I'm remodeling my master bedroom, and in the process I have to fix some shoddy electrical work from previous homeowners.

It seems that they tapped into the existing circuit to add an exterior flood light controlled by a switch in the bedroom. There is a conduit powered from the flood light's junction box, which continues the circuit to an exterior receptacle, and a buried conduit that leads out to a shed in the backyard.

The original wiring job was haphazard at best. There was an unsecured junction box just floating in the attic. One NM cable and an unsheathed wire marked as hot (red in picture) lead to the exterior flood light box. Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures of precisely how the floating junction box was wired, but I believe it must have been like in the picture (labeled "unknown"). The light switch had 2 NM cable legs connected to it.

So, my question

In the current state of the remodel, I've got the power in for the circuit, and the 12/2 and floating hot wire to the exterior light. I assume I'll need to replace the 12/2 + hot with 12/3. How exactly do I work in this light switch into the existing circuit, sending both a switched hot leg and a powered hot leg to the exterior junction box?

Should I run 12/3 from the light switch box, and power it light so?


texts:
We are installing a Bathroom in an existing bedroom on the first floor of a 3 bed victorian terrace.

We've heard building control have regulations regarding the double joisting or sistering of joists to spread the load when a bath is full of water.

What are the regulations?  Is it as simple as double joisting?

What is double joisting?  Is it as simple as bolting a new joist to an existing joist?  In this scenario the original joist is still taking the full load on each end that is supported by the brick wall.

Or must the new joists be supported by the  brick wall (or hung) in their own right?


texts: I need to install a running board on which to attached some cables going perpendicular to joists.  Is there a minimum size that one should use? I'm planning on installing some 6x1"s.


texts: Will this concrete fence base heave/break during winter cycle?

texts:
I live in Ontario, Canada, and the requirement for posts/bases is 4-feet deep in the ground, taking the frost line into consideration.

Now I saw this in Google images. I was just wondering if I can do this? Does the ENTIRE ditch need to be at least 4-feet deep? What will happen if the ditch is say, just 1-foot deep? Will the whole thing heave and crack/break during the winter cycle?


texts: Understanding my main box for Knob and Tube wiring

texts:
I'm trying to map all my circuits and prepare for replacing my knob and tube wiring. I have three boxes and when testing voltage I notice my central white wire isn't hot. I expect this to be the ground, but it has associated circuits that have no load. Is this box a two phase with red and black and the white is connected to ground?

My only confusion comes when I measure that every other fuse not have load. What fuses connect to the red wire? Everything on the left?


texts: How to fill the cavity in a recessed door panel

texts:
I'm restoring the door to my dumb waiter. The door is 1" thick, plywood core, tin exterior (1/32"); the door is original and dates back to 1939. I want to make the door completely flat, then paint it, but I'm not sure how to fill in the recessed panel such that is does'nt warp or crack later. The panel is 36" x 7", 7/8" deep.
My first thought was to use something solid, like MDF, to fill in most of the space, then use fiberglass or metal-reinforced bondo to fill in whatever space remained; apply another coat of fiberglass/bondo on the entire face of the door, sand, paint, done. Is that a good solution?

UPDATE 11/02/2020
I never filled the recessed panel. I left the door as-is and just refinished it. Sanded down to bare metal, filled holes with metal-reinforced Bondo, and cut-out a section to installed a recessed pull. Before priming, I cleaned the metal with Klean-Strip Prep-All, then primed with SEM High Build Primer Surfacer. Lightly sanded primer before spraying with Rustoluem Metallic Bronze and Metallic Rust (the recessed panel is Rust). Waited two days to cure, then sanded very lightly, removed dust with tack cloth, then sprayed clear coat using USC Spraymax Matte Clearcoat 3680065. It's a two-part clear coat that you mix in the can before using. I've had issues using Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel as it tends to lift the color coat if too much is applied. Spraymax does not have that issue.
The finished door with surrounding aluminum/pine molding and trim for a completely finished and professional look.


texts: Is it ok to use 14/2 wire out of a light in order to wire a receptacle into the ceiling?

texts: I have a light in my workroom which I want to run some LED strip lights off of. I was going to use a simple light socket to outlet adapter and plug them in, but I just found out they need a ground plug. Is it ok (and up to code) to wire a receptacle in the ceiling using a new wire out of the light fixture using 14/2 wiring? I would assume this is running off of a 15 Amp breaker already, but I suppose I should check.


texts: What's the nail size for attaching 2x3 furring to joists?

texts: I am installing 2x3 furring strips(16 oc) to joists in basement for hanging 5/8 drywall. Should I be using 10d or 12d or 16d nails?  I guess 16d may be overkill. The joist are 4x10s with 48 inch oc. I can add 2 nails for each joist.


texts: I would like to find out what English units of measure are for a screw size described as ST5X70.  Where can I get this information?


texts: How does framing a very tall non-structural wall differ from framing a standard height non-structural wall?

texts:
We are looking at potentially building a barndominium (a steel building finished inside to use as a residence).  After erection of the steel structure and exterior, I will need to frame out exterior walls on the side of the insulation.  The steel building itself will be loadbearing and protect from wind and elements; the wall I'm framing will be purely for finishing (providing a place to attach drywall and running pipes and electrical wires)

Much of the house will be two stories and can be build with standard 8' or 10' 2x4s, but the great room will need to be approximately 20' tall leading up to a finished ceiling.  I am hoping to frame and install these walls with as little help (or machinery) as possible.

I had planned on 16" OC throughout the home, attached to the concrete pad using a nail gun.  For exterior walls I considered a 2x6 top plate attached to the exterior structure for support, though that creates a thermal bridge that I'd rather not have.

How does framing a wall of this size differ from framing a standard 8' tall wall?  I've seen 16' long 2x4s at Home Depot; does one simply build the wall the same as an 8' tall one using those?  If so, how do I reach the remaining 4' to the ceiling?  Is there anything additional I need to do to secure the wall given its higher center of gravity?


texts: Is this asbestos? (Insulation, transit pipe, wall board)

texts: These pictures are from a house I just purchased in Western NY. The house was built in 1950 and I believe there are gypsum boards with plaster and lathe over them. Pipe is above a 1944 Pennco boiler. Others are from around house and walls.


texts:
I removed an old piece of trim that was installed cockeyed by someone else. It was a 1"x6" board that ran across and was nailed to shiplap wood behind it. The problem is that it was about 1/2" proud of the above drywall on the left side, but was flush with the drywall on the right side. How can I attach new trim so that it's nice and even all the way through? I was going to get some trim that goes up and covers the bottom of the drywall, but my concern is that when I nail the bottom of the trim to the wood, it will be angled if I don't put wood directly behind it. I've provided some pictures to show what it looks like both with and without the 1x6 board.
With board:

Without board:


texts: What amperage panel do I need for a hair salon?

texts:
What amperage panel do I need for a hair salon with 14 stations all of them drawing 16 amps each at any given time?  (1800 watts / 110v = 16.36 amps ?)

By my logic we will need a minimum  16 * 14 = 224 amps capable electrical panel?

What is really confusing is the fact that the electricians I contact in NYC all seems to say the best I can get is 200 amp single phase or a 3 phase 100 amp connection. The current connection is 100 amp single phase I think.

I realize there are water heaters etc that can utilize all 3 phases and draw lesser current from each phase, but how does it work for hair dryers for example? Do we just assign say 4 stations per phase etc so that we can get so that we can collectively get 300 amps in theory from a 3 phase 100 amp panel? Is this possible?


texts: Should I replace the entire garage door or just the 2 panels?

texts:
I idiotically backed my car into the garage door. The door is still functional and closes and opens normally via the opener. I also tried manual opening and closing and does not feel any different.

The main damage seems to be right between where the middle panel and the bottom panel joins in the center.

The middle and the panel above it (below the top window panel) also has a small dent from the outside, but very small, about 3 inch wide.

I read online that if 2 or more panels need to be replaced, it is best to just get a whole new door.

So, should I opt for panel replacement or door replacement?

Thanks


texts: Cost effectiveness of fireplace with insert vs electric furnace

texts:
Now that winter is here I have been using my fireplace (that has an insert) more and more instead of my furnace that has a electric heater. I was wondering which method of heating would be the most cost effective.

I pay $0.10/KWH for power and $5.00 for 0.60 cubic feet of wood.

The fireplace insert has a 80 watt motor that blows air.

There are a lot of articles about a fireplace is very inefficient since most of the air that your are heating is going up the chimney but there is little documentation on how a fireplace insert would change that. My assumption is that it would more efficient since the fire is in a chamber that is (more) sealed and the heat is being absorbed by the metal. There is also a small fan that blows the heat to the room.

Thanks for the help!


texts: How can I get my third floor radiators working?

texts: I have two radiators upstairs.  One is slightly warm, and the other is not warm at all, leaving the room very cold.  When I tried to bleed the radiators in the house, all of them released water and are working fine except the upstairs ones.  With the two upstairs radiators only air came out.  At this point, I need the one that isn't releasing heat at all to at least release some. I do not have money to have someone come look at it, and I don't know what to do.  The radiator that isn't working at all is currently turned off, because I read somewhere to do that to allow it to build up water pressure.  Please help! Single house mother needs help.


texts: Why can I not find a 120V programmable 2-pole thermostat

texts:
I'm wanting to connect a 120V wall heater to a programmable, 2-pole thermostat.  The difference between 1 vs. 2 poles involves whether or not the thermostat can truly, completely cut power or not.  With 2 poles, all power to the heater can be cut.  With 1, the "off setting" is really a very-lower power setting.

I can find 2-pole programmable thermostats that use 240V, but so far, have been unable to find the 2-pole arrangement for a 120V load.  It's a pure guess that this may because 120V heaters are easier to appear "off" due to lower heat output, but 240V heaters would draw twice the current and generate twice the heat so it might be more noticeable.  Still, its hard to believe it is only that reason that would prevent manufacturers like honeywell or cadet from making such a thermostat.

Does anyone know why a 2-pole, 120V programmable thermostat is next to impossible to find?  Is there some technical or design reason why they wouldn't work?

Of course if anyone knows where one might be found...that would be excellent!
I only need 24-hour programmability, not 7-day.  But I really would like the full-power cutoff of the 2-pole thermostats.

I hope this isn't too technical for home improvement section, as I've run into this as part of a home-improvement project.  Thanks.

UPDATE:
many ask or question my conception of single v. double pole thermostats.
I'm using a definition from a Cadet heating @ http://cadetheat.com/blog/faq-single-v-double-pole/.

  Double pole stats have a true off setting.  Single pole thermostats don't.

I've seen restatements of that definition on other sites and it seemed to be true for Honeywell thermostats as well. The manufacturer statements would seem to be definitive.  If they are not, I'd want to know why.


texts: Using air humidifier wick cleaned with home detergent - Any health concerns?

texts:
I have been using humidifier with rotating wick, and used to clean it with domestos detergent.
This detergent as said by manufacturer contains:

Non-ionic surfactants <5% - particular type not known[1], at least 2 might be type 3 health hazard
Anionic surfactant <5% - particular type not known, at least 2 might be type 3 health hazard
Sodium Hypochlorite <5% - type 2 health hazard

In particular I'm very alarmed by dangers of Surfactant because of recent exposure about PFAS, PFOA, PFOS types. [2][3][4][5]
Is there risk to health from potentially hazard PPM levels that can be expelled to air from humidifier membrane that has been treated with Surfactant type chemicals even after washing it with water ?
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant#Classification
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfluorooctanesulfoni…mans_and_wildlife
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Per-_and_polyfluoroalk…onmental_concerns
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfluorooctanoic_acid#Health_concerns
[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_events_rel…oalkyl_substances


texts: 42" Elevated Foundation Build in Coastal NC

texts: What are the best practices for residential elevated foundation 42" construction in Coastal NC?  I have read alot about: soil tests, compacted fill, 4" of gravel on top of compacted fill, vapor barrier, termite treatment, etc.  Where do I find  the latest industry best practices for constructing an elevated slab ?  Questions include:  1.  What is the best soil to use for fill?  2.  How do you determine if the fill has been properly compacted?  3.  What purpose does the 4" of gravel on top of the compacted fill serve, is it structural or for water drainage or both?  4.  If you plan on having reinforced 4" concrete slab 3000 psi do you need the 4" of gravel fill on top of the compacted fill?  5.  If you have a vapor barrier do you need the 4" of gravel fill on top of the compacted fill?  6.  How long is the termite treatment good for?  etc.


texts: Will latex paint dry thoroughly if applied too thickly

texts: I became impatient and applied latex paint to a cabinet door way too thickly.  I dumped about four ounces on the door with the door laying flat and then just spread it around with a brush.  Will the latex dry thoroughly but just take longer or did I mess this up?


texts: Found neutral and ground feed twisted together in a junction box. Safe to fix?

texts:
I recently found that the neutral bar and ground bar in my home's subpanel have no resistance (0 ohm) between them (when the neutral feed to the subpanel is disconnected). I root caused the symptom to one particular pair of neutral and ground wire. That leads to the junction box pictured below.
In the picture, you can see 3 wire nuts. The red ones each have 2 wires in it. The grey one has 3 wires in it: a thick wire (which I presume to be neutral), a bare aluminum ground, and a green wire. (EDIT: added this paragraph in case the picture is not clear)
I believe that the right thing to do here is to remove the neutral cable from the gray wire nut, and cap it off. I found the installation manual of the appliance, and the manual seems to support my belief.
But I'm a bit hesitant because the existing setup of the wire just seems too crazy. I wonder if I'm missing something. Is there any possibly valid reason that this junction box was wired this way?
My home is in California.


texts: How can I trim out a supply pipe passing through a tile floor against the toilet base?

texts:
I need a recommendation for a product that I can use to hide where this pipe meets the floor in my bathroom.  There was a metal piece here but I had to cut it off since the new toilet comes so close to the pipe, it was hitting it.

I need some kind of piece that I can slide on from the side. It also needs to be very narrow or somehow not symmetrical to fit here.

Any ideas?


texts: How can a circuit breaker turn on a different circuit?

texts:
So I recently bought a house built in the 70's and been dealing with issues ever since. Recently I was going to do some work with the electrical in the master bedroom when I ran into a problem and now I'm lost. Here's the easy way to explain what's happening

In this order:

Turn off breaker 9 master lights turn off
Turn off breaker 11 outside plugs turn off
Turn on breaker 11 outside plugs and master lights turn on
Now only turn off breaker 11 only outside plugs turn off.

Any suggestions or help is appreciated.

UPDATE

So I have traced the outside plug back to breaker 11 it's is a straight shot through crawl space no splits or junction boxes, I'm assuming this means the box needs to be replaced? If so any suggestions on brands to buy/avoid?

Update 2

So the last update was wrong I have no clue what in my house breaker 11 is powering and while checking I heard arcing in the box shut main power, electrician came out got the box operable for the time being and working with insurance to replace it

Here's some images of what the electrician found:


texts: Why do the bedrooms in my home have split switched outlets?

texts:
My wife and I are renting a house that was built around 2007 in Washington State.  It has a peculiar wiring arrangement that I've never seen before.  Every bedroom and the living room has two switches near the entry - one for the ceiling mounted light fixture and the other for wall outlets.  Not just one wall outlet, but every single one.  Each outlet is split so the top is always on and the bottom is switched.

I find this to be a horrible idea, because it essentially eliminates half the plugs in each room, resulting in more power strips and extension cords.

My recollection of building codes is that there has to be a switched outlet if there is no ceiling fixture - is that still current?  If so, why would the house be wired this way - is it local custom in certain parts of the country, or perhaps just a unique request from the original homeowner?


texts:
Have since moved my HVAC with ”old” connection now idle; dbl 40 amp breaker remains, with #8 wire, I have established a sub panel with 2 split 20 amp breakers to feed 2 outlets, should I replace the said dbl 40 amp breaker at main center with a dbl 20 amp breaker to reduce the feed, and will the existing #8 wire be OK????

Technically, yes they are outdoors-even though covered by patio roof; and yes,boxes, outlets are all exterior-GFCI-sealed systems-with box covers, and sealed conduit connections.

Yes, there is a ”new” sub panel, exterior rated, Sq. D, 50 amp, 2 breaker, 4 circuit.


texts: Noisy Maytag laundry machine when spinning

texts: My front-loading Maytag washer is making noise during its spin cycle. The noise sounds like loose objects within the washer. I balanced the washer but the noise remains. What can I do to repair this?


texts: Replace Water Shutoff Valve Stem with Repair Kit

texts:
I have a leaking water shutoff valve (pictured below). It appears to be a sweat shutoff valve that is soldered on to the pipe. It does not leak if I tightly shut off the valve, but any attempt to open the value causes leaking (admittedly I have to close it pretty tight to stop the leak).

Obviously I'd like to fix this through the easiest method possible. I could replace the entire valve, which would require either cutting the pipe or removing the soldering and pulling the valve off. However, there are valve stem repair kits that would involve just replacing the valve itself.

My main question is, is this a viable way to repair the leak? Given the fact that it doesn't leak when fully closed, does that imply a failure of a o-ring that such a repair kit would replace? Almost all advice I can find about replacing water shutoff vales involves replacing the entire valve, not just the stem.


texts: Can I splice a main neutral in a new feed thru (meter panel) box?

texts: I replaced an old existing meter panel with a 200 Amp feed through. The problem is I came up about 3 inches short with the neutral for the underground feed to the house. My question is: Can I add a piece of neutral with a crimp connector inside the feed-through panel?


texts: Shower needs turning too far to turn off and drips constantly

texts:
Hoping someone can assist here.

Have had this shower for around a year. The on/off is a round knob to twist with a smaller temperature dial inside that.
Anyway, when we turn the shower off, we have to really turn it to the point that it becomes stiff. There is no stop point and you can keep turning it and eventually with enough force, the water stops.

Went and bought a replacement today as the dripping had gotten really bad and no amount of turning would stop the water. Replaced the shower with a new identical version and already it seems the issue is going to persist.

I have just had a shower there and to turn it off I had to turn it past the point where it begins to get stiff to turn (where you would assume it would turn off) I didnt want to turn it too far at first so I didn't but have had to return 10 minutes later as it was constantly dripping. Turned it some more and the water stopped but it really feels like it's too tight.

Does anyone have any advice on this please? Showers arent cheap and I really dont want this to get damaged by over tightening.

Thanks in advance


texts: Bathroom Vent is tied to ceiling vent in adjacent room

texts:
I live in a bungalow with a bathroom on both levels.  The bathrooms both have exhaust vents.  Outside of each bathroom is a ceiling vent.  The previous owner stuck towels in these to block them off.  When I removed the towels I felt cold air (it's winter right now) falling down, so I put them back.

When I had them out, I could see the vent hoses go back towards the bathrooms.  With the towels out I turned on a fan in the bathroom and I can feel air being blown by it to the vent outside of the bathroom.  It seems like they are connected.

My question is this.  What purpose do these vents serve?  Is it okay to have them blocked?  Should I be concerned?

I have electric heat, so I'm guessing that it might be a way to help bring in fresh air?

Any thoughts?

Bungalow was built in 1978 in Ontario, Canada.

The vent in my bathroom seems to be connected to a ceiling vent just outside of the bathroom.  Why?


texts: How to keep my air conditioner from freezing when it is cool outside?

texts:
My bedroom is the hottest room in the house, and even with all the windows open and fans in them doesn't cool off as much as I would like when it's an acceptable temperature outside.  And I prefer to sleep in a rather cool room since I find it easier to breath.

I have a window air conditioner that works perfectly in the summer, keeping the room nice and cool.  But in the spring and fall, when it's cool outside (but not cool enough for me to be comfortable!) the AC will freeze over quickly.

What can I do to prevent it from freezing?

Are some window air conditioners better at working with lower outside temperatures?  If so what would I be looking for?


texts: Are licensed "builders" required to pull permits

texts: Looking into remodeling a basement in a major US city. The basement height is too low to meet code and I have been told that it is extremely unlikely that the city would grant a variance. I have talked to 4 contractors/design companies and none of them have any problems with not pulling permits for the job. These are all established companies with licensed contractors who use licensed sub-contractors. Can a licensed contractor perform work, that requires a permit, without a permit?


texts: How can house corner be supported when there's a deep cellar next to it?

texts:
There's this layout (view from above).

There's a log house supported by very weak foundation raised from ground level and there's a cellar right next to the house. The cellar is about 1,8 meters deep (blow the ground level) and lined up with steel sheets held by metal rods and pipes.

The problem is some foundation needs to be crafted to support the house. All other places are easy - slowly lift the house with hydraulic jacks, put it onto temporary supports, then dig a pit about 0.8 meters deep and construct a concrete or brick column. This is mostly done by now.

This corner is special - if the foundation column rests on the ground just 0.8 meters below surface it means there'a a pit next to it which is extra one meter deep and lined with weak steel sheets and the column will likely slide into the cellar when loaded by the house weight. Even if the column is built from the level of the cellar floor the ground from the cellar side will be pushing it to the side and bend it which may become a problem.

How can this corner be permanently supported? Maybe two pieces of I-bar, one (shorter) outside the cellar and the other (long enough to be mounted on the cellar floor) inside the cellar and a third piece put horizontally on those two?

Would this work? Any better options?


texts: Adding 50 amp breaker to 90 amp subpanel

texts: I have a 90 amp sub panel in the garage with a couple of empty slots. Am I able to add a 50 amp breaker for a 14-50 outlet without overloading the sub panel?


texts: Can somebody help me understand this door chime wiring?

texts:
I have this inside an old door chime which seems redundant. (UK)

I plan to decommission this door chime, but would like to understand the wiring first. Particularly if it is connected to the mains somewhere.

These wires runs deep into the house and I can't trace the end of them. There were batteries inside too, but they were flat and show signs of leaking.

I can't get any voltage from them with my multimeter (but as I said, bell is dead anyway). What would they likely run to? What does the colour coding mean?


texts: Can I locate a junction box in a wall that will be accessible through a vanity cabinet?

texts: I am remodeling a master bath and I have removed a knee wall that contained an electrical outlet. I have rerouted the wiring up next to the drain stack. I would like to locate a junction box in the new drywall behind the new vanity. I will make it accessible inside the cabinet. I will route wiring up and over about 3 feet to put an additional outlet in the wall above and to the right of the vanity.My question is..Can I locate a junction box within a foot of the under sink plumbing.


texts: What are good options for protecting expensive lawn equipment?

texts:
Question is self explanatory. We had a zero-turn stolen last year. We plan on buying another one this year, and I want to protect it. I've never looked into options available, but I'd like to tag my gear so that it can be tracked if stolen.

Besides obvious solutions involving keeping the gear out of sight and using chains + padlocks, what other ways are there to protect and recover equipment?

Edit 2: Options so far:

I've been looking at Internet Connected GPS Trackers on Amazon and have found some internet-connected-gsm units like this and this.

Can get pre-paid cards and pay ~$25 every 3 months
Can add another line to our family plan for ~$10 a month.
Might be able to add an AT&T SIM card and leave plan inactivated until needed, leaving no monthly bill until "needed".
Will have to get it "installed" on the item in a nondescript way that gets a signal and juice from battery.

Internet Camera's with motion recording. Another techy solution, with the aim of catching the perp and license plates.
Disable vehicles at the engine - make it harder to move the items and more expensive if they do get stolen.
Fast Disconnect tires. Same general idea as #2, make it harder to remove lawn mower. missing parts.
locks and chains - main issue with this is that where our stuff is stored is semi-secluded and all that's needed is a good pair of bolt-cutters, time, someone remotely aware of our schedules and where stuff is located.
dangle them from high above - no high-rises nearby, not many tree's, not sure we want a $3k lawn mower hanging through the winter although it would be entertaining to say the least.

Edit 1: Looking around, I've found plenty of GPS devices for tracking teenagers, children, cars, fleet and similar - but for home use ~$30 a month for protection of a single device seems much. One example found is this EON GPS Asset Tracker, which doesn't seem bad but its a bit expensive due to the monthly bill.

There has to be a good option that you can install into a lawnmower, let it leech off of available wifi-hotspots with the possibly of remotely activating more tracking if need-be without a month subscription fee. Item disappears and it's not phoning home via wifi? Enable cell phone tracking for a one time fee.

Right site or not? As I said in comments, I think this is the best site possible for this question... if it's not, which exchange should I ask this on?


texts:
We are building a new 6' x 15' bathroom with a 6' x 7' area which will contain a shower and a stand-alone tub.  The shower pan will be 6' x 3.5' and we are planning to build a small raised platform (6' x 3.5' x 4") for the bathtub to sit on.  We are currently planning to tile the top of the platform.  We are not planning to have any barrier between our shower and tub.  Our contractor thinks that we need to have the platform sloped toward the shower pan so that water that may splash onto the raised platform drains off.
I don't really like the idea of not having a level surface for the tub, and I am wondering if (1) the slope is necessary?  (2) if there are other ways to deal with the water that may get on the platform?
This is the bathtub being used: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vanity-Art-Versailles-59-in-Acrylic-Flatbottom-Freestanding-Bathtub-in-White-VA6610/305086229


texts: No Neutral Wire to Install Smart 3 Way Dimmer

texts:
I am replacing a 3 Way switch (master) and remote dimmer with Decora Smart devices.  The master has the correct wires to install the smart 3-way dimmer master.  The remote box had a dimmer device with a line?, travel, ground and another wire (load?) that did not connect to any of the wires in the master box. The remote box does not have a neutral wire.  Instead, the ground wire is tied to the neutral wires in both boxes.
My 2 questions: 1) How do I find and detach the neutral to ground connection if needed? 2) Can I use the other black wire (former load?) as a neutral wire. The Leviton Decora Remote (DD00R-DLZ) does not required a load connection because the traveler signals the master box to turn on/off the circuit?


texts: Does an 8" round to 10x3.25" elbow exist?

texts:
I have open space above cabinets and wife does not want a chimney on our range hood.

SO I am looking for an elbow that will take the 8" round vertical exhaust and go 90 degrees into a 10x3.25"  (we have ~4" of molding above cabinets)

I found this online, but it's not quite the right size.  Anyone know if there is a proper term for this I can search, or if I could get one to meet my specs?


texts:
A couple of days ago we lost power and I had to open the garage door manually. The door did not stay up as it is supposed to. It stay half the way so I had to shove a piece of wood to keep it up and move my car. We hardly ever loose power here (California, USA) so I never bother to look at the springs. Now I was looking at it to plan adding torsion to the springs so the door would stay up and I noticed that the left spring looks unwound (comparing green arrows). It also does not feel hard like the right one. You can see it a bit wavy?  I installed the springs myself about 4 years ago. I can easily rewind it but I'm concerned what would happen when I loosen up the bolts (two bolts on each spring pointed to by red arrows). I tried to move the left spring by inserting the handle bar but it is not loose. It wasn't hard doing the install but adding torsion is not without risk.
Any chance the springs are slipping from the cups (ends)?
Thanks


texts: What is best way to caulk this improperly installed bathtub?

texts:
How do I caulk this beast? I was trying to replace the caulking, took out the old caulking to find out that the bathtub was improperly installed, and the tiles are not over the lip. There is this half inch gaping hole such that the caulking needs to do all the work to keep the water out. I know the ideal thing to do is to redo the bathtub installation, but I need to have this fixed right now and may be able to take the larger job later.

What is the best way to go about this?

Here is a further away view:

Any help would be appreciated!

Alfredo


texts:
My dryer stopped heating.  It turns on and spins but that's about it

Samsung Dryer - Model DV42H5000EW/A3

I have found this article which has helped to disassemble and troubleshoot but I still have a few questions. (link)

I'm trying to test the heating element with an OHM tester however I don't know how to interpret the results, if the 8-9 reading means its good or bad?

FYI the meter reads 1 when not touching anything

Then I hook it up to the heating element and it reads 8 or 9

Furthermore in the link they talk about

  Check the thermostat and the high limit cut off fuse to be sure those
  components are not causing the dryer to not heat

any ideas how to check those 2 components?

Here are the readings from the other 2 components

the thermostat (reading 0, maybe this is the bad piece!)

this is the "high limit", it reads 1 but as mentioned above the meter reads 1 when nothing is touching it (so it doesnt change when touching it to this component!)


texts:
My wife and I recently purchased our first home. We'd like to make a flattened area in our backyard (which is somewhat sloped) for a firepit.
My thinking was to dig out a shallow area and fill it with gravel, then place the firepit on top (similar to the picture above)
What I'm unsure of is how to safely contain the gravel without it spilling over. I was imagining some kind of retaining wall thing. This picture clued me in on these wooden beams, which I like the look of and I would expect are less  expensive than building a stone retaining wall (probably more practical too).

The Question:

What are the wooden beams called in this picture?

Bonus Question(s):

Do you see any issue with using these wooden beams to contain the gravel?
Would you expect these Beams to last several years or would you expect them to deteriorate quickly?

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, if my question needs to be edited in someway, let me know and I'll edit it ASAP.