texts: When is the "best" time to get a gunite pool installed?

texts:
Is there a time of the year where pool installers are generally "cheaper", due to lack of business?

I've heard that it's best to purchase decks in the fall, since that is the slow season. Just not sure the same applies to pools.


texts:
I have 240 plug with a switch dedicated for Air compressor. I have compressor that supposedly can be wired for 240V

2 pictures show sticker and current wiring. How do I update wiring to make it 240V? Do I just replace hot/neutral with hot/hot?

EDIT: To finish conversion I have 1 more question:
This is compressor, so there is switch (see picture below)
From what I understand I keep wiring at switch the same but white will be second hot instead of neutral?


texts: How difficult/costly would it be to extend a 400V 3-phase domestic supply 150m down a garden in the UK?

texts:
I do a lot of technology work for a large country house in the UK.  We're currently looking at getting electricity 150m up the garden.

Despite being a residential property, the electrical supply appears to be 3-phase (the main supply cable looks to be about 50mm diameter and there are Danger 400V warning signs around it.)  Given that we might want to run large events in marquees at the site, it seems sensible to try to dispense of the need for generators and get 3-phase up there if possible.  We would prefer to bury it but can run it above ground if necessary.  It would terminate in a well-constructed, waterproof timber building I'm hesitant to refer to as a shed.

So my questions:

Compared to solving this problem with a high-current single-phase installation, are there likely to be any extra costs or regulatory hoops to jump through to do it with 3-phase?
Can we legally terminate it in our timber structure and distribute both 3-phase and single-phase sockets from there?
Do we need to get permission from the power company or any regulators?

And for the record—no, I'm definitely not going to attempt any of this myself;  I just want to know what I'm talking about before I start calling electricians.


texts: Waterproofing sub & top floor for balcony

texts:
I have a 27 X 10 feet open balcony.

I replaced the Plywood floor it had with 3/4 Plywood which I used as sub floor and covered it with different lengths (from 12 in to 32 in) of 2 by 4 studs.

I sealed the seams of the plywood with silicone and painted the plywood for protection with exterior paint. I sealed the gaps in the studs with silicone and coated them with wood stain.

I live in the desert and the heat shrank the silicone and created a big water mess when the rains came as water seeped through the studs and plywood.

What is the best way to waterproof at least the studs and cover the gaps between them to prevent leakage without having to remove the wood stain? There are places where the gaps between studs are about 1/8 inches.

In case you are wondering why I used 2 by 4 studs as the floor: I got them at a closeout and thought they would look nice.


texts: What is the proper way to cut a hole in a window pane?

texts:
I have a small electronic detector (the enclosure is 80mm x 110mm externally, rectangular with rounded corners) which I need to fit into a narrow, single-pane, fixed window next to a rear door. If at all possible, I'd like to achieve this without having to remove the pane from the frame.

How should I best go about this?


texts: Installing a dimmer switch for a ceiling fan

texts: I have a ceiling fan with a lights that have to separate switches- one to control the fan on/off, and another to control the lights on/off.  I want to put a dimmer on the light switch only but I most of what I have looked at warns against certain setups- I just want to make sure adding a dimmer switch for the light only won’t put the house at any risk. Can anyone provide some clarification? TIA.


texts: Would a concrete ramp added to an existing slab be less durable?

texts:
To remediate a situation my concrete company caused by changing the layout without consulting me, they propose to add a ramp partially on an existing (though new ~10 days) slab.  I'm worried that it won't be durable, and I am having trouble trusting them for obvious reasons.

Here is a (bad) drawing of the proposed ramp: It would be straight on the left matching the lower pad, I'm just bad at Photoshop.  The ramp will be 2 feet by 8-10, and will rise to 6 inches high to meet the higher level.

They say "We will cut and remove the lower portion out of the trash can pad so we can pour solid 4" down so we are not going to zero on top of the existing. The area on the sides will have rebar to tie the two together. This is standard practice."

Is that OK, or should I insist on tearing out the lower slab and redoing it with the ramp as part of the same pour?

Background:
I had a company build a concrete pad in my back yard.  Without consulting me, they changed the layout to have two levels: a lower level for a small extension for my trash bins to sit on, and the main part 6 inches higher.

I wanted the whole thing to be the same level as the lower pad.  They obviously don't want to tear it all out and redo.  I'm mostly OK with the higher level, except the trip hazard, since my young kids will be playing back there.


texts:
A friend used trim head screws for ALL of the 2x4 framing (including the outer walls) of his 2400 sq. ft. house. The house uses 8x8s to carry the load; none of the 2x4 framing is load bearing. The inspector did not see a problem with it (but maybe she didn't even see the screws).

Edit- the picture below shows a similar (post and beam) style of building. The original building was a wood/furniture shop (not commercial); it was erected about 20 years ago (±5 years). The old exterior walls were removed (I don't know anything about them); the new walls are 2x4 construction with trim head screws, including the exterior walls. The friend is a maintenance guy... not an engineer.

Is it built to code? Would it be correct to assume that (at least) the outer walls are in danger of windy conditions and earthquakes?


texts:
I'm a new home owner. My house is heated with steam radiators attached to an oil fed boiler. The boiler is getting close to retirement. One concern I have is that I need to drain water from the reservoir every couple days. There's a glass tube on the front of the boiler with a sharpie mark made to indicate the level it should be at. It fills up slowly and I need to place a bucket under the drain and lift the lever to allow excess water out.

What happens if the reservoir fills up completely?


texts: Can any damage be caused to a door and/or its hinges if pushed open with force?

texts: In the majority of houses that I've visited, I've noticed that most walls in the property have door stoppers behind them to prevent damage to the wall from a door hitting hard into it. For doors that are situated in an area of a house that has no direct wall behind it, however, can any damage be done to the door hinges if a floor-mounted door stop isn't present? I was mainly thinking that it may be possible for somebody to force the door back not realising that there wasn't in fact anything behind it to stop it from going any further - but I'd be interested to know if damage to the hinges and/or the door are possible.


texts: What is the proper way to vent a dryer through a crawlspace?

texts:
I am selling a brick, pier and beam home that has a Dryer in the garage that currently vents into the crawlspace. I had run flex tubing through the crawls space to the crawlspace vent.  The inspector indicated I could not run the tubing to the crawlspace vent because it had a screen on it.

What is the correct way to vent this dryer? Do I need to drill a hole in the brick exterior for the ventilation?


texts: How much sagging is considered normal for floors in old (100+ years) houses?

texts: I am currently looking at a house in New England that dates back to the 1820's that has a sagging floor in the living room. The floor dips down about one inch near one of the walls and I was told by the owner that it has been and is structurally sound and that sagging floors are "normal" in older homes. Is this in fact true and if so what would the typical amount of sagging be?


texts: Just put in new submersible well pump, pressure tank will fill and once full well pump shuts off all the water runs out of the tank. Everything is turned off in the house, why is water rushing out of the pressure tank?  It’s a well-trol. Also the air pressure gauge below the pressure switch isn't working does this cause any issues as well?


texts: How do I secure an old aluminum/glass sliding door?

texts:
I am buying a house that was built in 1967 and still has the original sliding door opening onto the back deck.  This door's latch is missing.  It does not lock.  The last owner of the house didn't care (it is a very low crime neighborhood; he never locked the front door either).

I need a short term solution to this, while I am moving in.  In a few weeks I will replace the door entirely.

One obvious idea is to install a "charlie bar".  But it is not possible on this door, because the glass pane that slides is on the outside of the glass pane that is fixed.  This is a terrible design flaw in the door.  If I installed a charlie bar, it would be lockable/unlockable from the back deck, not from inside the house.

What are some other possible ways to secure this door?


texts:
When i turn on my borewell, after some minutes it stop pulling water and there is a button on circuit board which come out. When i press it in and restart the borewell it just start working and after some time same happen.

What is the purpose of this button and why it come out?

 This is the button

Internal circuit


texts: Which color temperature for front door exterior lights?

texts:
Finally running out of incandescent bulbs for our two front door exterior fixtures. I want to use this opportunity to try LED bulbs, as I do not love CFLs and seems like LED prices are getting reasonable.

Question is, what color temperature would be appropriate here? I've Googled around, but most advice I find seems to be focused on landscaping lighting, where a warmer (up to 3000K) temperature seems to be recommended.

I'm not sure that's quite right for the front door. I think I'd want something more cooler, but I'm not sure if I should go for a cool white (3100-4500K) or a daylight (4600-6500K).

Is there a conventional wisdom bulb warmth for this application, much as there is for kitchens & bathrooms (daylight) or living rooms (warm white) or garages (cool white)?


texts:
This spinning part on my furnace (not sure what the part is called) is making this scratching noise. When one section of the part hits the area behind it, it makes that noise. Any idea how I can remedy this?

https://youtu.be/7gY7n1wBO78

Looks like it’s this part: 318977-401 - Carrier OEM Replacement Furnace Inducer Motor Blower Wheel/Squirrel Cage


texts: There is a lot of information out there about the benefits of GFCI and AFCI and the places where they must or should be used. But are there any circumstances where you're better off without them? If I won a free box of dual-function GFCI/AFCI breakers, would there be any reason not to use one for every circuit in my house?


texts: What is more effective - mold control spray or the fogger?

texts: Concrobium sells mold control spray and the fogger. Which one has more lasting effect on the mold? Does the $135 cost of fogger justify the effect it has on the mold?


texts: How to use essential oils in DIY cleaning solutions for laminate floors to mask the scent of vinegar?

texts:
I recently created a very effective and non-toxic cleaning solution for my home using 1 part vinegar, 2 parts water, and a few drops of rubbing alcohol. It's incredibly effective on laminate floors, but the vinegar scent is overpowering. I've heard that adding essential oil or citrus rinds may be helpful, but have I no experience using essential oils. Which kind of essential oils are effective in masking the vinegar scent? Will the essential oils leave an "oily" residue or damage laminate floors? How many drops does one add to a standard spray bottle?

FYI, they are Pergo wood laminate flooring, fairly large planks.


texts: I know I can run indoor wire underground as long as it is protected in something, but can I use a water hose to run it through instead of conduit or PVC?


texts: How to Calibrate a Make-Up-Air Controller?

texts:
My home is equipped with a make-up air line intended to bring some outside air to mix it with indoors air prior conditioning by the furnace. I am not sure why this is necessary but my question is regarding calibration. The line is connected to a Skuttle Model 216 make-up-air control unit. See:

http://www.google.com/patents/US3982560

http://www.skuttle.com/aircontrols.html

In summary, a damper inside the duct is moved when the furnace blower operates allowing outside air in. When the blower stops, the damper moves again to obstruct the flow of outside air. The damper can be calibrated with a pair of counterweights in the outside of the unit (see patent). I have followed the manufacturers instructions for calibration and failed every time. Either the damper wants to stay closed or it wants to stay open. I cannot get it to adjust according to the blower power. Does anybody has any experience with these units? Any ideas on proper calibration or on what could go wrong with these devices?


texts: Adapter to interface camping propane tank like big grilling one

texts:
I have a propane torch that is made to go on a big grilling propane tank (like you get at the Home Depot). I don't have a tank like that and also where I will be using the torch it would be too big, heavy, and impractical so I would like to use a small camping one.
Which adapter should I get to put on a camping tank to give it a nozzle like a big grilling tank I can hook my torch to?


texts: Is my thermostat keeps losing power due to a furnace fault?

texts:
I suspect my furnace of reaching a temperature limit and cutting power to my thermostat as a result. How would I determine if that is the case?
First off, my situation is very similar to Furnace turns off power to the thermostat, but I have a slightly more basic question. It may be helpful to read that question first though.
I recently replaced my 4-wire thermostat with a 5-wire wifi thermostat. It now will regularly lose power. I've checked and replaced the wiring from the thermostat down to the furnace. I had been thinking a loose connection was the cause, but now I'm not so sure.
Like the other post, I have an older natural gas furnace that (based on comments from HVAC professionals) is likely getting less than ideal air-flow. How would I confirm that the furnace is actually hitting a limit and thus cutting power?
If it helps, the loss of power seems to be more common when it is colder outside and the furnace has to work harder. It's now bad enough that the furnace doesn't run enough to keep my house quite up to full temp on very cold days. The thermostat can take many minutes to reset and then doesn't keep the blower running for a time after the heat is off.


texts: How would I go about building this bed frame myself?

texts:
I am in love with this simplistic style bed, however, it is quite expensive. I feel like if I had the right instructions or some ideas to go on I could do it myself. If anyone has any idea on how this bed was built please help!

here is the link for a larger picture
http://www.urbanoutfitters.com/urban/catalog/productdetail.jsp?id=30073654&parentid=A_FURN_FURNITURE_BED

these are the dimensions
SIZE
Queen
- Length: 81"
- Width: 61"
- Height: 13"


texts: Trying to set my thermostat to use FAN only for cooling

texts:
I have a Bryant 60k BTU gas furnace(about 6 years old) and no AC. I can manually turn on just the FAN or leave it on AUTO for heating. I have the RITETEMP 6025 thermostat.

At the moment I am cooling the house in the summer by manually turning on the FAN from my gas furnace in combination with some open windows in my livingroom. The livingroom cools down quick from the open windows and the intake for my furnace is in the same room, so it picks up cool air and sends it to all the other rooms.

I do this by turning the fan on at the thermostat and letting it run for about 4 hours or until the bedrooms are cool, then I turn it off manually again, usually around 4AM.

Can I rewire my thermostat in a way I can achieve this automatically? For example, the house is at 85F, I select COOL on my thermostat and set the temp to 78F. The FAN runs until the house cools down to 78F then it stops.

When it gets close to the winter I will rewire for Heating as below.
At the moment I have 3 wires connected (G -Fan control, RH - Heater power and W - Heat control)

Here is the link for my thermostat manual:
http://www.ritetemp-thermostats.com/60XX/images/6025_installation_guide.pdf

Thanks


texts: My led bulbs will not screw far enough in my regular light socket. I am considering adding a small circular magnet to the base of the LED before screwing into the socket to add additional length to the bulb base. Is this safe?


texts: Need help envisioning how to move cable from wall to ceiling

texts:
Location: U.S.

I have a series of wireless access points in the home that are currently wall mounted. For best coverage, I want to ceiling mount them instead. What do I need in order to do this?

I need help envisioning how to get from the single gang wall box behind the access point up to the new single gang cutout I plan to install in the ceiling. If I need to drill through studs/joists, how many am I drilling through?

Black square is roughly where I’ll cut out the new single gang.

What I think I need:

Drywall saw
Flexible drill bit (?)
Cable fish to somehow get cable from existing wall location to new ceiling
Ethernet cable to extend wall jack to ceiling


texts: Circuit Not on Any Breaker, but Off with Main Breaker

texts: Looking through my main panel today I discovered that at least 1 circuit does not appear to be attacked to any breaker. If I turn off the main breaker of the house, the circuit does turn off. How can this be?


texts: Concerns about cutting into roof for attic access?

texts:
I've spoken with a contractor who proposes cutting a hole in the roof of our circa 1900 house to access the attic for installing insulation.  This intuitively seems like a bad idea--that it could damage the shingles and cause future roof leaks.  A different contractor proposed cutting an opening via an interior closet with plaster ceiling.

Our house was built around 1900, asphalt shingles. Closet ceiling is plaster, so that introduces its own risks. They said that their technique was to first drill a pilot hole in the roof to ensure that they aren't cutting into the framing.

The insulation is going to be rolled, not blown in. So the hole will have to be big enough for the installer to get into the attic and to get the rolled insulation inside.

First, is this a sensible way to gain access to an otherwise inaccessible attic space?  If so, what precautions should be taken to ensure that the roof isn't damaged?  If so, how can I verify that the work is being performed properly?


texts:
A water softener has been disconnected and stored indoors for a year. Unit was drained. About an inch of salt was left to dry in the holding container. Unit was not disassembled.

Can it be re-installed and used?

Kenmore Ultrasoft 100. One piece model, uses salt. Manual.


texts:
So I have a porch that has significant rot due to a leaky skylight. This had been fixed with a new roof.

I found significant rot in the wall. This wall is load bearing and is supporting the roof. The wall holds rafters for a vaulted ceiling. Here is a

I have the plans for the support wall. It will be a 2 story support wall about 3 feet inside.

My questions are? What order should I tackle this?

The top floor has rot along the top plates and headers. The bottom floors top plate is rotted along with the rim joist.

Should I kick out the entire wall once the support wall is up?

Can I do the repair in stages? Can the top plates be cut in half instead of one 15 foot top plate?

I assume I need to put a double top plate for the first/bottom story as there is only one top plate above the angled 2x12s.

I've had like 6 contractors come out. I've had problems with all of them. Either not knowing how to do it, not wanting a temp wall or refusing the repair and insisting a new porch is better. That and not having insurance.

I'm at whits end, and I just rather do it myself at this point.


texts:
I have a Bosch dishwasher (modelnr: SMU69T42SK). It is no longer draing properly at the end of a cycle.
There is a similar question here, which mentions a failing solenoid valve as a possible fault.
I don't think this is my issue, though, because when I put it on the quick (15m) rinse cycle, the first thing it does is pump out the water in the bottom without a problem (identified from sound of water in drain, verified by opening the door immediately after and seeing water has emptied).
I have read here (sorry, Danish article) that there may be a dirty or faulty "niveaukontrol" (level sensor, I think). From the symptoms the article describes, this sounds likely.
I have found the parts drawings (washing system subassembly, page 6), but I can't identify a level sensor. Also, I don't see a float-like device in the bottom as in this video
Is it possible that my machine does not have a level sensor? How would it know it drained the water if not?
Any suggestions are of course very welcome.


texts: Does anyone know how to get rid of magnetic field from water line?

texts:
I have horrible wifi reception in one side of my house, even with an expensive wifi router. So I purchased a magnetic field meter and confirmed everywhere it peaked the wifi was non-existent. Walking around the house I believe I traced it back to the water line coming from the city.

Does anyone know how to reduce or eliminate this magnetic field?
A friend suggested that it could possibly be a faulty connection from my main electric panel touching the water line. Before getting an expensive electrician take a look, I figured to ask you for any advise or other things to look out for.


texts:
Other than the ~1 hour set time of the fast setting stuff, are there any other pros or cons to it?

We're looking at putting in about 45 fence posts or so and I'm running costs. The regular 50lb concrete is half the price of the fast setting 50lb stuff. Why would we need the quick setting concrete?

Thanks.


texts: Can I use LED lighting sources to illuminate my workbench and desk?

texts:
I have a home-based business and recently moved to a house with a detached garage.  I plan to remodel a part of the garage for my new workshop. I've been looking for lighting options in LED.  I need to develop area-lighting over the workbench and desk.  The ceiling is 60" above the workbench and 64" above the desk. At present, the ceiling is not sheet-rocked so I am able to run wiring
and place fixtures where needed. I also need some close lighting, such as a Architect's adjustable lamp attached to the bench, wall, or a free-standing unit that can be directed toward detail work.  In my past workshop, I had 3 CFL spots in recessed ceiling cans designed for incandescent spots over the bench and a 4-tube CFL on a flexible stand. I just found an online source for GU10 lights, but I don't know much about them.  They are rated to work with 85-265V.  Mine is 115V.  Do these GU10 fixtures wire directly to 115V? My CFL spots were rated at 900lumens and they weren't as bright as Incand. spots, but were acceptable.  I also recently saw an online source for 12x12" LED panels that looked like they might work. Any suggestions or expertise would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Proper glue for sticking foam on window glass? Strong enough, removable, and without gap

texts: Winter is coming. I plan to stick soft polyethelene foam on window glass for thermal insulation. Last time I use Styrofoam glue, and it is a disaster. It is hard to remove it. It take hours with alcohol and box cuter. Is there any proper material for the job? The house is rented. In future I will have to remove it. I am looking for a glue strong enough to keep polyethelene foam and glass together, removable in future, and leave no gap. I tried gap before, if foam and glass has a gap between, moisture condenses and molds. I wonder is 3M 77 spray adhesive will do the job? It sticks like a 3M post-it. Or is there any alternative? Thank you!


texts: How to remove dried hot glue from a closed door?

texts:
Ok so in my room someone used hot glue to close off a small passage way to the attic above. I have searched all over the internet for ways to remove the glue, but none of them seem to work. So basically my question is how do i remove dried hot glue from a closed door?

Useful info:
-Both the heat gun and drier method didnt work
-Tried heating up a metal rod with a torch and using that to burn the glue, but that resulted in alot of smoke everytime the rod touch the glue, and gave me too big of a head ache to continue
-there is only about a 1/4cm between the wood


texts: I am looking into replacing my doors in my house. The current doors are a little unconventional. the widths are 31.5" what are my options for replacing them? is it possible to take a 1/4 inch off each side on a table saw, sand and re paint a new door or is the hollow nature of interior doors going to pose a problem?


texts: why does my heat pump wiring diagram show 7 wires going to the thermostat but the thermostat only says it needs 5?

texts: Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my heat pump.  The thermostat that I am planning on buying has the following terminals C, G, Y, O/B, RC, R, Aux, E, and L.  The instructions say to jump the RC and R together after you connect the R wire.  On the wiring diagram I can see where the the R, Y, G, and O wires match up on the Heat pump(HP) and the thermostat(TS).  It looks like to me the W2 on the HP connects to the W on the TS and the C from the HP connects with the B on the TS.  It also looks like the W1 on the HP does not connect to the TS but to another place in the HP.  I thought there would be wires going from  W1 and W2 on the HP to the same terminals on the TS(if I understand correctly that W1 and W2 are 2 different heat settings)?  On the wiring diagram on the HP it looks like it wants 7 wires connected from the HP to the TS, however on the Thermostat instructions it only shows 5 wires being connected...any help/insight would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.


texts: Can I replace metal porch swing components with wood?

texts: Have a metal porch swing that we haven't used in 6 years because a weld broke on the slat in the back that holds the two ends together.  Wondering if I could replace the mesh fabric and the metal brace with wood slats and re-purpose this swing.  What kind of wood should I use and how should it be attached to the metal side pieces?


texts: What's the name of type of AC Circuit where you can remove an element?

texts:
There are different type of circuits, such as parallel and series.

I'm wondering the name / type of the [AC] circuit where there are n number of circuit elements and even if one element is removed (with n-1) remaining, the current still flows?

Eg,

I have 4 light sockets wired together and it is connected to the mains via single plug.

What type of circuit is necessary so that things work not just when 4 lamps are attached but 3, 2, or even 1 is fine?


texts: What do I do about thinset that has oozed up between the tiles?

texts: There is too much thinset in between my mosaic shower floor tiles (in some spots it looks like grout). What do I do before grouting?


texts: NEC code regarding grounding and conductor pass through

texts:
I am adding a mini split system to my house which currently has a smaller air-conditioning condenser in place.  In brief, the house is very old so we opted for a ductless mini-split over trying to increase the size of the current unit to avoid needing to add ductwork.  We have a 3/4" EMT conduit that leads outside along the back of the house which had only 2 6AWG wires in THHN insulation.

This allowed us to run 2 more 6AWG wires in the same conduit and stay under the NEC fill requirements.  Adding a ground wire would have put us over the conduit fill.  The original unit was presumably grounded to the panel via the all metal conduit.  We also passed the new wire through the original disconnect (going to the original condenser) to a second disconnect (going to the new unit).

To make sure both units were properly grounded an 8' by 5/8" grounding rod was inserted and attached.  I may be able to submit for a tax credit on the unit but I'm not sure if the grounding rod meets building codes.  The electrician thought possibly not.  This route was chosen to avoid running new conduit out of the house (spacing is very difficult). My questions are, does this (grounding to rod and running wire through a disconnect) meet code?  Would it pass a permitting inspection?


texts: Does reverse-cycle airconditioning in heating mode dry the air?

texts: I understand that when cooling, an AC unit condenses water vapour from the room, and results in dehumidified or drier air than outside. When in heating mode, I would expect this not to happen, as the cooler coils should be on the outside, so it would be attempting to dehumidify the outside world, not the room. Is this correct (in theory or in practice)?


texts: Should I connect one cable to each outlet in a two-gang box?

texts:
I removed a 1-gang box that had two 14-2 cables entering it with all wires connected to a single duplex outlet. Strange I thought. I need to install a 2-gang box with two duplex outlets in it. I had purchased 14-2 Romex prior to today because I thought I would find one sheath of 14-2 behind the 1-gang box. Based on the picture, I am assuming I lucked out and can just wire each cable to one duplex outlet. No need for pigtails. Am I right?

Update: I connected the two 14-2 Romex sheaths and two sets of pigtails (2 x black, 2 x neutral, 2 x ground) together with wire nuts, and then connected the other ends of the pigtails to the outlets. Everything is working perfectly. Thank you for the education and recommendations. Made this project easy.


texts: I have a bump-out closet in an addition. It had two sets of bi-fold doors, separated by a beam in the middle. The beam seems to bare very little load, and I'd like to remove it for one continuous expanse. Two of the four studs extend to the top of the framed closet. But there is an 1/8 inch gap between them, so perhaps I need to fill the gap for compression hold. But wondering if there's a bracket of some kind made specifically for this application, to bridge the two horizontal studs. Pictures attached.


texts: What tool works with this star-shaped screw with a post in the middle?

texts: What tool do I need to unscrew the fasteners shown on the metal lock on this sliding window?


texts: Can a door bell be powered from a receptacle?

texts: What's an easy way of installing a traditional door bell? I know there are the wireless, battery operated ones, but I'm tired of changing out batteries. Is there a version of doorbell that could just be plugged into a wall outlet, or better yet, NOT use up and outlet but somehow "tap into" a nearby outlet for power?


texts: What metal is along the top of a plaster wall in a 1930s house?

texts: I have a house built in the 1930s with lath and plaster walls. I was planning to install a hook, so I needed to find a stud. My normal stud finder didn't work (as expected), so I used some rare earth magnets. However, I found that there is about 3-4 inches of something metal all along the top of the wall. This seems to extend to every wall on the floor. I am fairly new to this era house - what could be along the top of all the walls that would be made of metal?


texts: Inspection on new work in house with unpermitted work

texts:
My house's basement was previously partially 'finished' with no permits and poor code compliance. In the interim, I've done some repair work down there. Now I want to do a significant rework and do it properly.
However, we actively use the basement, so I have to do it in sections. Now my question is, when I call an inspector for the rough-in of the new work in part of the basement, are they going to ding me for old unpermitted work?


texts: Can I terminate my dryer vent next to my gas meter?

texts:
Background

I want to move my electric dryer. This involves moving the exhaust vent. This question is about where I can safely terminate the vent duct on the exterior of my home.

I already understand the requirements to use 4" rigid metal ducts, and the maximum lengths of ducts, and that bends in ducts deduct from the length calculation.

Again, my question is about exterior termination of the vent.

Research

The only building codes I could find regarding dryer vent termination were the  International Residential Code, which says:

Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building.
Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions.

If the manufacturer’s instructions do not specify a termination location, the exhaust duct shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings.

Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper.
Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

Question

The easiest location to place the vent is right next to my home's gas meter. My questions are:

Is it safe to have my dryer vent exhausting next to (22" away from) the gas meter.

Would a gas leak at the meter be exacerbated by hot-moist-linty air?

Is it legal to have my dryer vent exhausting next to the gas meter.
What constitutes a building opening? There is a non-opening window nearby, does that count as an opening? Edit: It's not a window per se, it's made from glass bricks.


texts: Can I use a 220V line to supply two 110V receptacles?

texts:
I went to replace the over-range microwave today, only to discover that the old one ran on a 220V line:

...but the new one only needs a 110V receptacle:

Am I correct in assuming that I can use the existing wiring, swap the 220V outlet for two 110V two-outlet boxes, and then remove the 220V breaker in the box for a single 110V breaker (40 amp down to 20, I think)? Is this advisable? I know DIYers who swap out breakers all the time, but I'll need to do some reading before I tackle that...


texts: Washer in front or behind cabinet panel mounted with lag screws?

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I'm going to be mounting a network cabinet on some studs. I was advised to use lag screws. (Not really sure what these are but I assume they are for heavy things being secured to studs).

Should I be putting washers behind the mount in front of the wall, or under the top of the head of the screw but still on the front of the mount itself (so it'd be Top Of Screw|Washer|Mounting Bracket Metal|Wall)?


texts: How do I remove this keyed Jacobs drill chuck?

texts:
I have an old Jacobs keyed drill chuck in my box-o-spares, and I need a drill chuck for my hobby lathe.   I have a suitable tailstock arbour, but the drill chuck has something already installed, and I can't remove it.

The label reads:

JACOBS (r) MULTICRAFT (r) USA

and further around reads

3/8 (10mm) CAP
3/8 24 THD KG

Here's the shot up through the wide-open jaws.  Inside is a large-flanged bolt with a shallow 1/8" hex socket.  A 3mm tool spins in the hole, and a 3.5mm tool does not fit.  Being a metric country, old imperial/SAE/standard/american sizes are less common.  I have exactly one allen key that fits.  As per photos, I've managed to pretzel the shaft by using a vice and pliers to apply torque in either direction.

Is the little bolt going to be conventional right-hand thread or backwards left-hand thread?  It doesn't move in either direction so far.
Will applying heat damage the chuck?  If there's thread-lock, heat may loosen it.
Which two areas should I be applying torque between?  The old arbour, the outer ring, or the hex tool in the small bolt?
Is the old arbour threadded or some kind of taper?  The Jacobs chuck references like http://www.michiganpneumatic.com/customer/mipnto/extrahtm/jacobsref.htm and  http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-removal-guide  do not show how this model chuck is mounted.
LAST RESORT - should I drill out the little bolt ?   No idea what kind of steel its made from, but it didn't distort when I put a 90 degree twist into the allen key, so its likely to be hardened.

I do not need to save the old arbor. There's plenty of apprentice marks on it now from my vice.

I hope to mount it on this morse-taper0:threadded arbour from my Sherline lathe.  The largest flange is 16.48mm in diameter on the old arbour and the MT0 from the lathe has 15.90mm

The chuck moves smoothly so I'm happy it will be good.  I have not bothered cleaning it yet - unless I can remove the old arbour it will be pointless.

Certainly the usual solution would be to order parts, but given the C19 lockdown, I can't even leave my home, so everything needs to be in-stock already.


texts:
We bought an underground house (bunker). After installing bathroom ceiling vent fan we have condensation dripping from fan. Due to using existing duct work that runs up through 9 inches of concrete with around 4ft of soil on top of that. Is there anything that can be done to stop the condensation?
Thank you


texts: Can I use 1x4 boards for raised platform support?

texts:
I'm making small mini golf modules for use at home that will be 24"x24" each and just be placed on the floor next to each other. I wanted to make them as lightweight as I can for a reasonable cost. I'm wondering if its safe to use 1x4 boards for the frame and support boards under the plywood floor.

If not, what if I used 2x4 for the 24x24 frame and then 1x4 boards for the two center support beams?

Just so its clear, I'm expecting to be able to walk on these so each one would need to safely support 200 pounds.


texts: How to calculate wattage used in a solar panel set-up

texts:
I want to run an electronic that uses 300 watts @ 5-10 amps via solar panel's on my rv.

I've got (2) 6 volt batteries set up in a series so it is 12 volts.

Here are the stats for one battery (so I assume you would 2x it?)

20 Amp Hour Capacity: 215
Delivers 395 minutes of run time at 25 amp draw
Delivers 105 minutes of run time at 75 amp draw

I have a 200 Watt 12v solar panel that charges the golf cart batteries.

Ignoring the power loss due to inefficiencies in the converter/ system and assuming there is nothing else connected to the system.

How long will I be able to run this per day assuming 10 hours of sun each day?


texts: How can I remove a stripped nut from a bolt?

texts:
I have a bolt with a nut on it that holds a small wheel onto a fork.  I assume I over-tightened because now the nuts turns while I hold the bolt, but it will neither tighten or loosen.   Also, it's on so tight, that I can't fit a saw blade between the nut and the fork.

Any suggestions on how to easily remove this without damaging the wheel? (though I'm willing to destroy the bolt.)


texts: UK regulations concerning external staircases

texts:
We're looking to buy a house which has a newly-built external triple garage, which has an external staircase to a storeroom above the garage.

Our plan is to turn this storeroom into an office.

What I'm curious about, though, is the staircase.  At the top of it it has a small landing area.  I've not taken measurements, but if, say, the staircase is 1m wide, instead of just having a 1m x 1m square at the top, there's actually something roughly like 2m x 1m.  You can either go up the stairs and turn left into the storeroom, or turn right onto a tiny balcony.

Would we be able to extend that balcony?  To make it (say) 3m x 3m instead, with space for a couple of chairs and a table?

As I understand it any decking etc that's more than 30cm off the ground requires planning permission.  I've looked at the planning permission for this garage, built a few years ago, and it doesn't show or mention the current balcony.

I'm not sure if the previous owner did something naughty by adding the extra 1m x 1m at the top of his stairs, or if there's actually a building reg that says you MUST have x amount of space at the top of a staircase, or what.

All of that aside, how hard do you think it'd be to get permission to extend the balcony, if we applied for planning permission?  The main house is 100 years old and isn't listed.  The garage is 4-5 years old.  It's not in a conservation area and no other houses overlook it.

Thanks!


texts: Should I drain my winterized pool after a large rainstorm?

texts:
I just installed a safety/mesh winter cover and closed my pool.  Over the past month we've had a few big rain storms so the water level is already at the skimmer.  Winter hasn't even arrived yet and I'm worried that it will overflow.

Should take the corner off and drain the water again?


texts: How far should my wall be from my furnace/water heater?

texts:
) we are refinishing the basement and are enclosing the furnace/water heater, leaving a thin 27" door. My water heater sits back beside my furnace and the enclosure is going to be square so I think the WH will be fine. But how far from the front of the furnace should  I put the studs? And how about the one side? Oh yea they sit about a foot and a half off the wall so the back will not be enclosed.
Thanks so much


texts: How can I prevent water from getting behind the gutter?

texts:
A friend of mine is having a water problem; the water is coming down behind the gutter.  It turns out the drip edge isn't covering up the gutter completely on the one side for a considerable length of the house, as the gutter slants downward.  Is there a way to fix this?  Is there a flashing you can use, or something else?

Note that this started happening after a recent replacement of a roof.  I've included some pictures of what this looks like.


texts: Purpose of septic vents both in the yard and also through the roof?

texts:
My house has both septic venting that goes up through the roof and also a vent in the yard. What is the need for the yard vent? Is this vent a requirement (code or otherwise)? A "best practice"? Or ... ?
Here's a photo of the vent when it was installed, just to clearly show the relationship to the house outlet (right), trap (center), and tank (left):

This came up because we are looking into relocating it, being in the way of a deck project.
The roof vent is standard, with all the fixtures passing through traps and then draining down eventually through the basement as well as venting upwards.
The yard vent sticks up out of the grass about 16' from the house. It is just upstream of an underground trap which feeds directly into the septic tank. (This is not a municipal sewer.)
At one point due to some project I had temporarily replaced the yard vent cap with a solid cap so there was no airflow, and noticed no difference on any plumbing in the house. (Maybe there could have be some long term effect we'd eventually have noticed?)

In reading around this subject I'm not finding yet anything reliable or pertinent for my system. There are discussions of venting the leach field or the septic tank itself, but my vent is neither of these. Being upstream of a trap I believe it provides at most pressure equalization as air won't flow through the trap by design.

I've noticed that some homes have these vents, others do not, that's part of the motivation for the question, to understand the reasons for the differences.


texts: How do I keep indoor air quailty high without letting in the outdoor air?

texts: The outdoor air is polluted. Is it possible to keep the indoor air quality high without letting outdoor air in? Maybe with plants?


texts:
We recently added new glass doors to our shower, and finished the job by sealing the track. The caulk we have is specifically for bathrooms (Red Devil), and the instructions say to keep it dry for 72 hours. On Day 4 I used the shower, but when I was done sections of the clear caulk had turned back to white due to the water. Clearly it hasn't fully cured yet.
Will this caulk ever dry, or is it ruined now and needs to be replaced? How long do I really need to let it dry before it's safe to use?


texts: What kind of paint do I need to paint rubber?

texts:
Is there any type of easy-to-apply paint (spray paint, ideally) that would work well for:

rubber surface
relatively rugged

(Context: I need to paint hockey pucks)

I know you can get Krylon and the like for plastics...would that be suitable for rubber as well?

It's actually an odd thing to google given the number of rubber coating spray products out there. I'm specifically looking for paint to coat rubber.


texts: Can I install a bidet seat/washlet without a tank?

texts:
I'm interested in adding a washlet to my toilet seat (like this one for example https://www.brondell.com/swash-300-bidet-toilet-seat/) but I'm not sure if I can do so given that my toilet doesn't have a water tank above it.

Here is a photo of where the toilet connects to the wall:


texts: What type of cordless tool battery chemistry should I purchase?

texts:
I'm about to buy a cordless tool set in which the tools all operate off the same form-factor battery.  The batteries come in several different chemistries and I'm wondering which type is better for the type of short duration, impulsive discharging that power tools undergo.  The available battery chemistries are:

Lithium Ion
NiMH
NiCd


texts: Is it necessary to replace lead gas pipes?

texts:
I have some lead piping in the cellar where the gas comes into the house. Does this comply to current Gas Safe regulations??

Edit: England


texts: how to clean up black paint that spilled on exterior bricks

texts: My upstairs neighbor (well she said her cat did it) spilled black paint on her deck/patio last summer.  It dripped for 10 minutes down the side of my exterior wall of my unit (outside).  It's spilled all over the light fixture and on the bricks.  We've had power washers try and get it off, but they weren't able to clean it up.  What are my options for cleaning this up?  The condo association is responsible for the exterior of the building, but they are not too diligent about cleaning this up.  I'm more concerned about the bricks.  The glass/metal light fixture can be replaced.  What are my options for getting this cleaned up correctly?


texts:
I currently have a 15A outlet, which I am trying to replace with a 5A outlet (without changing the wiring) so that I can use it to plug in my refrigerator.
Is it OK to do so?
Can it harm the appliances that are connected to the outlet?

Ps - we have 220v/50Hz


texts: I have 2 outlets from front and back of the house that have no current

texts:
I have 2 outlets from front and back of the house that have no power, and I check my breakers they all on and everything else in the house is working except there is no current to these outlets so i don't know how these outlets are tied to.
How can I repair them?


texts: Need Assistance Wiring a Duct Booster Fan

texts:
Morning, folks. And thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.

We have an in-line duct fan in the attic. It assists in moving air from the central HVAC system into our addition. It is hooked up to a 24v/12v relay to control on/off and controlled by two 24v connections. The first comes form the furnace and the second comes form a thermostat in the addition. When the HVAC is active AND the thermostat in the addition is triggered, it completes the circuit and the fan is powered.

To the point, the fan finally failed and needs to be replaced. I'd like to replace the relay at the same time. The HVAC contractor I called out wants nearly $700 to do the job, with the fan costing around $350. I just don't have that kind of money right now, but we're cold!

Now, I can buy a fan similar to what was installed for between $80-$150. I can replicate the wiring as it was previously done. I'm fine with the duct work, and I'm fine wiring something to voltage. I can also replicate the wiring as it was done for the old fan. But I need to make sure I'm going about it the right way. So, I have a few questions if you're willing:

Should I just pay them the $700 and be done with it? Am I too far out of my depth? Am I likely to be bumping up against so many safety and code issues that I should just pay to have it done?
Many of the in-line duct fans I've seen plug directly into a 120v outlet. I was thinking I could just rig the relay to energize a 120v outlet and plug the fan into that. In this way, I can just plug a new fan in if/when needed. I know codes differ from location to location. But is controlling a 120v outlet with thermostats and a relay ever OK?
Let's say #2 is a no-go. I need to identify a proper relay. Can I use any old 24v to 120v relay to power the fan?
I'd love for all of this to be stuffed into a junction box, but it looks like any relay I see is mounted outside of the junction box. I assume this is to keep the low voltage and line voltage separate. So I take it that it's never OK to hide the relay inside a junction box?

I know enough to know that I'm probably out of my depth here. I just want someone else to confirm it before I spend half of next month's mortgage payment on a fan. Of course, "Don't pay those bloodscuckers, dude. This is super easy and I'm going to show you how" would be even better. Thanks in advance!

EDITED TO ADD IMAGES

Editing to add "schematic" to the degree that you can call this a schematic. Hopefully it provides enough information.


texts:
I  have recently bought a Honeywell rth9580 programmable WiFi thermostat. Unfortunately I have old electric heating/cooling system probably from 70's. The system is based on two relays (I guess heating and cooling).  Since transformer doesn't have 3rd wire (C?) by default I would like to make one by connecting extra wire to transformer chassis. Having terminal C I would like to connect wire G  to terminal C and jump terminal G with Y. I measured the voltage between transformer chassis and Rh wire: idle 34VAC,  calling for heating/cooling 24VAC. Here are my questions:
1) Is this setup will work?
2) Is it safe to connect thermostat since voltage on idle is a bit higher than it supposed to?
3) Am I right to assume that transformer won't overheat because thermostat will try to drain to many amps?


texts: Minimum ampacity for circuits in a home from 1964

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I’m attempting to fact-check a seemingly very dubious claim from my landlord, but I’m having a great deal of trouble finding useful information on older electrical codes, especially in a form that I can easily cite.

I’m in the US, I’m renting a room in a home built in 1964, and while I’m far from any sort of expert, I think I have decent basic knowledge of modern residential wiring.

My landlord, in what I believe is an attempt to discourage me from installing an ac in the window, has claimed that my room and one other are on a single 5 amp circuit, and that even a very small ac is likely to overload it.

Now this sounds like total bs to me, and there are at least a couple other times that he’s told very obvious lies on subjects that I know much more about (computers and networking), but I’d like to hear from people who are more knowledgeable than I am.

The wires in the electrical boxes appear to be 14 gauge. And the receptacles are all standard 5-15r’s.

What I’m looking for is:

1) how likely is it that the “5 amp” claim is false?

2) what was the minimum size for a residential circuit, according to the NEC in 1964?

3) finally, when (if ever) was a 5 amp circuit legal to serve receptacles in bedrooms?

Thanks for the help.

Update:  After I initially (politely) called bs on the 5 amp max, he came back about an hour later saying that it was actually a 10 amp maximum, shared between two rooms, for theoretically, 5 amps per room.

While perhaps not quite as blatantly absurd, this still seems quite odd to me, not to mention pretty dubious with the very-clearly 15 amp receptacles in the wall.  That said, this is hardly the only example of questionable wiring here, but for the moment I'm just trying to pick my battles and move somewhere better when I can.

Even with 10 amps, I do not think it likely that my ac would cause any problems (I've actually used it before with no issues, part of why I think this issue is largely or entirely contrived on his end).  Its rated for a peak draw of about 600 watts, though I think it will operate at considerably less once the compressor starts up.

I have purchased some inexpensive power-monitoring devices, and I'll be setting them up when they arrive, so that I have hard info available to back up my position.  And, while I'd much rather not spend the money right now if I can avoid it, I can also purchase a newer ac that would peak at ~400 watts instead.

I have also offered to pay to offset the additional cost of operating the ac unit.  Somewhat surprisingly, this didn't clear things up.


texts: Any tips for using an open hearth fireplace?

texts:
I will be taking a trip this winter and staying in a rustic basically 1 room log cabin where the main source of heat is a fireplace. Just a stone hearth and chimney. I believe it doesn't even have a damper. My only experience has been with wood stoves.

I've seen it said numerous times that fireplace don't heat the interior they suck the warm air out. Obviously they must do something since for hundreds or thousands of years this was the main source of heat for many.

Considering I can't make any modifications to the structure, what can I do to increase comfort and conserve fuel? Is there any hope of walking up to a somewhat comfortable temperature without having to feed the fire in the middle of the night?


texts: Restore a front load washing machine door boot

texts:
I have a front load Samsung washing machine, and it's started leaking around the door, which I take to mean that the seal is getting warn out.
Is there any possible way to get it working again, or is just replacing it the best option?


texts:
My kitchen range hood is vented through the roof. The vent pipe on the roof is made of metal and extends a bit higher than the roof ridge. It is connected via metal ducts to the range hood. The range hood itself is grounded.

Do I need to ground the vent pipe on the roof?

I live in the US (New York).


texts: Hard wiring light bulb socket onto whire/black wires -- small shock when touching housing

texts:
I tried to wire up a light bulb housing (just the part with the socket for the bulb) by connecting the neutral (white) wire to the silver screw and the hot (black) wire to the brass screw.

I should also mention that this is coming off of a 3-prong outlet.  The outlet is broken out into green (ground), black (hot), and white (neutral).  I need all three prongs for a fan which is adjacent to the light (the fan has a grounded chassis), and figured I could tie in a light bulb as well (light socket has only two ports).

It works, but when I went to touch the housing of the light bulb I got a shock.  It was not too bad, but bad enough that I feel it is unsafe to use as it currently is.

Did I somehow mix up my neutral and hot wires when connecting to the lamp socket?

EDIT

I just went and out measured with my voltmeter the hot and neutral wires with reference to the grounded chassis of the fan.

It doesn't look like I mixed up the wires.  How can I be getting a shock from the light socket?

EDIT2

I just checked electrical continuity between the leads ... apparently there is a short internally between neutral + hot.  So I will be replacing the socket.

EDIT3

So, I removed the socket and tested it alone.  There is no short.  I guess the continuity checker sees the parallel fan (turned off) and since an off fan looks like a short circuit, beeps.  But there is no short through the light socket.

I also touched the light socket again in the same place as before; I got no shock.  I have no idea what caused it initially or why it is gone now...

I have included a picture of the setup.  Let me know if there is something wrong with it.

Here is a picture to a very similar socket as the one I am using (mine is from an old lamp).  I have the socket suspended with zip ties from a grounded metal chassis.


texts:
My biggest problem is that the bottom of the cabinet are so close to the ground, I may only get 1mm clearance so it's difficult to slide vinyl sheet in.  The cabinet in picture 2 can easily be removed and perhaps I can mark the cabinet legs out and cut holes however the cabinet in picture 3, I cannot even pull it out because it is hitting the floor so would probably struggle to push vinyl under it and removing it seems more work than its worth.

I know, the best way would be to remove all remaining cabinets and if need be raise the tops surfaces and sink at the end, but that sounds like a lot of work.

So am wondering how to get vinyl in one piece of possible in the whole kitchen.

I guess this cannot be done unless every time to a side shelf(the standing parts that support table tops and cabinet shelves) I have to cut the shape out as though I was sliding the sheet forward and then add the shape in at the end and silicone any gaps?

Instead of wrestling the sheet in and cutting as I go, if I just measured the whole kitchen and cut parts out such as where the shelves are standing then tried to slot it in place, would that work?

Anyway please advice how might it be best to get a vinyl sheet in this hole kitchen bearing in mind I probably won't want to take all cabinets apart more than what I've done and it seems impossible to slide the sheet under the legs as there is not enough clearance.


texts: How to prevent moisture from ruining a climate-controlled wooden outbuilding

texts:
We are having a 16 x 24 x 8 wooden outbuilding built. We are making a home gym that will have a cooling/heating unit for climate control.
     We are worried about moisture causing damage. Looking for suggestions on the best way to insulate, etc.
     It is a gabled roof so we were going to put in exhaust fan. One person tells us we basically need to put an attic in to create a dead space.
     Others tell us insulation, vapor barrier, etc.
     We are spending around $20,000 for everything (building, electrical, gym equipment).
     We dint want condensation ruining the roof/walls/floor or damaging equipment for that matter.
     It will have outlets, lights, fans, etc but we are told moisture will still be an issue.
     Thanks for any help.


texts:
The trolley on our garage door is no longer attached to the garage door opener track (with the operator) and the arm is hanging loose. I wasn't there when the trolley fell off the track, but was told that the trolley was disconnected from the operator and fell off when the garage door was lifted up.

From my research this doesn't seem to be a common issue. What could
cause this? I don't see any obvious damage to the trolley, but can
post additional pictures if need be.

Does this mean the trolley needs to be replaced?

How can I reattach the trolley? I don't see an easy
way to slip it over the track, so it seems like the only options are
taking the trolley apart and putting it back together once it's back
in place or taking the track down and then slipping the trolley
over.

--- Edit(s) ---
Current state of the door

Picture of the trolley


texts:
I live in a ranch with a concrete slab for a foundation built in 1956. The kitchen drain feeds into the pipe under the concrete where it is rotted or collapsed. This 2 inch pipe runs approx 18 feet to the main drain out in the center of the house.

Since I know I will need to cut the concrete and dig the old out to replace it, I need to know what kind of connectors should I use to connect an 10ft and 8ft piece together. I just don't think the rubber seal with clamps are the correct type for underground use. Any Ideas on what is?

Thanks for any assistance provided


texts: Painting Pressure Treated Wood | Outdoor Steps Application

texts:
I am needing to rebuild some stairs (3 steps), and the previous owner has a great colour scheme going on the house, and I want to maintain that. Now, my wife and I like to do builds/projects that are quality so we have been looking at ways to build these steps that will help them have a little more longetivity. The conclusion we have come to is that we would like to use a pressure treated wood (e.g. here) and then paint it. However, the internet is full of contradictions...even on our site. I have seen things saying we should wait upwards of a year to paint, while other sources say to just paint and prime, and some are even more intensive asking you to clean, sand, dry, paint, prime and sell your first born.

We live in Alberta, Canada - it is quite dry here in the summer and we have long winters. I am hoping to get this all done this year so I can take advantage of next summer, for next year's projects. Can we finally but this issue to bed? What works, what doesn't...

In short - how can I paint the steps to ensure they will last?


texts:
What is this, is the mold anyone know?

Photos: 1 2
3 4
5 6


texts: Is this a "Dumping pit" by the builder and who is resposible to pay for this house was built 1998

texts: I have a large rectangular area in my back yard. Over a year now, the county told me that by the pictures that I sent them, that is was a "dump pit" that the builder used while building the neighborhood. The county said that I should  through all the seasons, let it settle through snow and rain and then fix it. Now, 11 years later I have a mess. My neighbor said that he can see wood and roots in there, I am too scared to get that close.  Am I safe to just fill it with dirt? I live in TN and can't even get anyone out here to really tell me what it is. It doesn't appear to have gotten any larger, but it is quite long, probably the whole length of my back yard.


texts: Minimum bedroom size - 7 foot in any horizontal direction

texts:
I'm remodeling a basement and trying to determine if a particular layout would violate code. I am in a 2015 IBC/IRC jurestiction.

This blog indicates that the bedroom must be

  At least 7’ in any horizontal direction

And similar statements are made on other sites. But what does that mean?

Does this mean that a 7x7 foot square must be able to fit in the room?
A 7 foot diameter circle must fit?
Some other interpretation?

Sketch of room if it helps. Apolgies for the quality and lack of scale.
The diagonal dashed line measures 8.6 ish feet, so from point A you could swing a 7 ft rod 90 deg without hitting the wall.

PS this is a permitted project and the bedroom is planned to be compliant in all other ways already. I would ask my county, but called too late to catch the plan reviwer before they all left for Christmas.


texts: sump pump discharge pipe connection broken inside basement

texts:
I just bought a house and now discovered the sump pump extended discharge pipe is broken at the elbow going out the basement wall about 5 feet from floor.  Can you help with suggestion to repair?
I saw a sump pump discharge hose on a YouTube video; do you think I could change out/replace the 5' pvc pipe for a sump pump discharge hose?


texts: Are there any other reasons to use 130 volt halogen light bulbs instead of 120 volt bulbs?

texts: I recently had PAR30 50W Halogen light bulbs installed. I would have gone with 75W, but 50W is the max wattage supported by my light (shallow 6" can). I'm very disappointed with the how dim the lights are. They should be about 600 lumens and I don't have a meter but they are just not very bright. I took out one of the lights and noticed they are 130V rated. So, why 130V when in the US our line voltage is 120V? Best I can tell, voltages can fluctuate and the 130V are designed to be more durable, but at the cost of less light. One source indicated that 130V lights are 25% less bright at 120V. This makes sense since the filament needs 130V for peak brightness. They also save energy but only about 14%, so really you are trading durability and some energy savings for a lot less light. So, now to my question: are there reasons other than what I've mentioned for installing these?


texts: Will this screwdriver set fit into my corded Bosch GSB 450?

texts:
I've this drill. My aim is to drive screws using this driver (not really worried about the drill bits, those are just bonus)
I've seen numerous videos on YouTube but all use the holder end (screenshot below) on cordless drill machines.

This makes me wonder if I can make that part (circled above) fit into my corded machine.


texts: Going to be away for 4 months, should we turn off the refrigerator or leave it on with water inside?

texts:
I  have found people saying it's better to leave it on with water inside because then mould will not form. Is there any other downside except for electricity bill? It's a smallish refrigerator which will cost around 60$/year in electricity costs if left on.

Some more details
We are in India in an apartment. So problem with electricity turning off(breaker etc., is not an issue).
However, there can be rat problem. Will they damage an open fridge?

We have two babies at home, so turning it 24 hours before we leave is very difficult.

So I guess, we will put in 10-15 water bottles  in the fridge, and 1 open container of water in the freezer, and leave it on?

Is it possible that the fridge gets damaged if the door is not opened for 4-5 months?


texts: Finding Ground/Neutral Wire in Switchboard

texts:
Similar to this Install TP Link Wifi Switch and problems along with it, I was installing another WiFi switch at my place.

However this time when I opened the socket board, I did not find any Green wires, all the switches had suspended green wires which were not connected to any other wire.

I have taken a photo, can someone please help me find out Ground/Neutral pls.


texts: What type of duct should I use for a clothes dryer exhaust?

texts:
I am planning to relocate my gas dryer to the center of my basement. The closest vent is in one of the walls 16ft/5m away. To reach it I would need to run an exhaust pipe horizontally, enclosed in the ceiling by drywall (so preferably no leaks).
What is the best material in this case? Any tips? Is moisture pooling in the pipe a concern?
Here is what I currently know:
PVC pipes
+Can handle moisture
-Combustible
Flexible metal foil
+Not combustible
-Might increase moisture pooling due to texture
-Rust?
Sheet metal ducts
+Not combustible
+No moisture pooling
-Leaks out of horizontal and lengthwise joints?
-Rust?


texts: How can I extend a concrete step without repouring?

texts:
Two rooms in my house are connected with a set of concrete steps (one tread). As built, the ledge for the first step is inline with the wall framing.

This means that when I add drywall the finished door frame will extend 5/8" over the ledge. I would like to double-rock this wall so now I'm looking at 1-1/4" overhang.The finish floor will likely be tile or perhaps something like a rubber gym mat.

I would like to add material to extend the top step by 1-1/4" but I don't want to break and repour the steps.

I'm thinking of getting a solid plastic board (like decking maybe?) And trimming it down to fit. Then glue + tapcon into the slab to hold it.

I have measured and the resulting tread depth will be 11-1/4" (currently 12-1/2")

How might I accomplish this?


texts: Leveling wood floor for laminate wood floor

texts:
I am laying down some laminate wood floor this week in my house over some older wood plank flooring. I was just going to put roofing paper down and then some foam style underlayment Home Depot recommended. The issue is the floor, being old planks, is not very level spanning the room. The corners are pretty low, maybe 1/4" dip. Should I lay down some liquid floor leveler on this floor or just build up the underlayment to make it more level?

Thanks.


texts:
my kitchen has 3 lights that are not working. One dining table light a over the sink light and the main kitchen light which were 6 T12 lights replaced with 6 LEDs (t8's)that required no rewiring.  all the wall receptacles have power and are working. Here is what I did so far:
-checked the gfci outlets and none of them were tripped but I pushed reset anyways.
-went outside to my breaker box and none of those were tripped but I also reset them all anyways.
-took all the switch covers off the light switches and tested that they all have no power.
-checked the wire nuts behind the light switch and they're all very secure.
-took the breaker panel off and tested each breaker. all had 123V.

What should I do next?
Im thinking replace all the light switches?

or check all the wall receptacles... I assume all kitchen lights and wall outlets are separate.

any other options out there, please help.
i havnt checked the light bulbs themselves because like all the lights are LED...I slowly upgraded them over a period of like a year. with the last ones being about 4 months ago.

location: Sacramento, California


texts: Tub faucet, how to attach elbow to cut pipe (partially cut threading)?

texts:
I'm working with an older fixture and most of the pipes are fused which has made it unwieldy. I'm a novice at plumbing as well.

I've attached a picture of the faucet plumbing. Valves still work fine so I'm not touching those, but the spout portion had an elbow and nipple attached that were horribly corroded and fused, so I had to cut it off of the nipple in the center (hanging down). This took off part of that nipple's threading but not all of it, about half is left, it's galvanized steel as far as I can tell.

How should I attach a new elbow and nipple to this piece? Since the nipple is tapered (I think) I can't just buy a new steel elbow and screw it on, but I'm not sure. I've looked into the possibility of using a dielectric union to attach to it and then use a copper piece to run out to the tub, is that feasible?

I'm short on ideas but I know there are a ton of solutions in the plumbing space I'm not aware of. Thanks for any help.


texts: Proper sized screws to attach whiteboard on wall

texts:
I need to attach a 120 x 200 cm (47.2" x 78.7") whiteboard to a concrete wall with some plaster on it, and the whiteboard arrived with 4 screws which seem kind of small to me.

I will be attaching the whiteboard in all four corners with these screws, but compared to the size of the whiteboard I find them to be rather small. The whiteboard is 15 kilograms (33 pounds) heavy.
I would like to use the install kit that came with the whiteboard, since I don't have longer screws of the same diameter to fit the wholes in the corners of the whiteboard (and would like to avoid an unnecessary trip to a hardware store to buy some, given the current pandemic) but I'm worried the whole thing will just come apart and fall if I use the provided kit.
So my question is, are these screws appropriate for mounting the whiteboard? Or should I use longer ones? What length would be appropriate?


texts: We are planning to lay laminate flooring in our basement and are wondering is there is anything we could lay down first for some warm< or should we put anything down? thanks Joan


texts: What is drawback of smaller diameter recessed lights?

texts:
I am looking into installing recessed lights in an existing house. Because we have insulation in the attic, I am looking at IC rated, remodel housings. Here in the US, I am finding that the 5" and 6" diameter housings are the most common, but I tend to like better the smaller 3", or maybe 4" models.

Given that context, what are downsides of smaller diameter recessed light housings (3-4"), compared to larger ones (5-6")?


texts: How do I get more GPM from my Delta Monitor series 13 shower faucet?

texts:
For example, is there a way to non-destructively modify the cartridge to increase the flow rate without damaging the cartridge and the scald guard feature?

I currently have a shower wand with the flow restrictor removed, and after having the fixture replaced following repair of some water damage behind the drywall, the new setup isn't producing as powerful a flow as before.


texts: Name of this shelf support with plastic head and two nails

texts:
This shelf support is a rectangular plastic head on two unequal nails. What's the name of this thing at the producers? Or the name that can be used on Google to find this thing.

The size of the head is 18 x 11 x 7 mm
The length of the nails is 11 and 9 mm


texts: We have a smooth top LG Range. The two left burners only work when one of the right hand burners are on

texts: Simple really.  The two left burners only work when one of the right hand burners are turned on as well.


texts: How to stop central heating system from leaking

texts:
Our central heating system is leaking a bit of water. The system is a Ferolli Megadens 5, it heats water for both the central heating system and the shower/tap.
There are several pipes below the system, and the middle one is (If I read the manual correctly) the gas-pipe. This is one with the yellow covering and the yellow valve . I have a link to the manual and while that is dutch-only, I believe the image on page 4 shows it to be number '6', which says "gasleiding" (translated: gas-pipe or 'gas main' as google translates it).

That middle pipe drips water, and it seems to come from the connection (the bend) as the upper part feels dry, and the connection looks like this up close:

Bottomline is that it seems to leek water from the gas main, which I think is weird.
It could be condensation of course, but the fact that it is specifically on the connection makes me think it is an actual leak. Not to mention the fact that it has never done that before, and I don't see why it should start condensating all of a sudden .
Rate is not very much, but might be (very rough ballpark) half a cup on some days I guess? In any case it doesn't seem to 'stream', but it does drip actively sometimes (and other times, in fact, most times I look at it, it does nothing and might be almost dry).
This shot was when it was dripping a bit. The heating had been off for 12 hours and no hot water was used in that period as well. The system has an ECO setting that we use, meaning it keeps water at a lower base temperature in those cases, and only starts heating on request. Not sure what that base temp is by the way.
so question is obviously what to do about it, but also should I be worried that there is water there, and/or is there an explanation for it?


texts:
So I have a driveway that is made of concrete sections that mates up to the edge of my house which is brick with a cinder block basement wall. The prior owner sealed the gap between the two with cheap sealer which is starting to wear away. So I believe my best option is to take a heat gun, remove all the current sealer and then re-seal the gap with something new.

My question for the community is if it is better to seal the gap with actual cement or with more of a sealer type product? The criteria for "better" is longevity and not letting water in the gap.  I do live in a state that gets a decent amount of snow so there is expansion / contraction to worry about. If the choice is a sealer type product, which material choice will hold up the longest? I am not looking for product recommendations, I am looking for material recommendations.


texts: would these be compatible replacement solid state AC Relays?

texts:
I am replacing a relay for an appliance (stove).

I cannot find a replacement relay, however I thought I'd confirm if the following relays would be compatible:

1)
input 90-250 VAC
output 24-440VAC
25 Amps

2)
input 80-250 VAC
output 24-380 VAC
25 Amps

The original relay is:

input 90-250 VAC output 40-440 VAC 40 Amps

option 1) seems to fall within best reasonable range. only major difference is the 40 Amps vs 25 Amps.
since 110 volt standard outlet produces max 20 Amps,I reckon should be sufficient.

any issues you see with this?

Thanks


texts:
I am renting, and my previous AC unit sounded like a diesel generator so the maintenance team replaced it with a new one.  It is the Garrison Air Conditioner, Through the Wall, 14,000 BTU, 230/208 Volts, Cool Only.  I called maintenance the other day because it was running for 2 days straight and the temperature in the apartment was sitting around 78 degrees for the room with the AC and .  They instructed me to turn off the energy saver mode and to turn the desired temperature to 62 degrees (the lowest the unit will go).

Cold air (62 degrees) does come out occasionally, but it is generally 75 degrees.  It has been in the high 80's outside the past few days, and I have also noticed at night it does a much better and consistent job of cooling, and I do not think it is a coincidence that when the temperature outside drops, the AC is is cooling better.

Is there something wrong with my AC? The previous place I lived, when I set the AC, it would take a few hours at most to hit the right temperature, but this one takes 8 hours to drop 2 degrees in a 1 bedroom apartment.


texts: How to remove dried latex paint out of painter whites

texts:
I'm a professional painter by trade and sometimes a spill happens and it gets paint on my work pants. How can I remove at least some of it with a home remedy? My painters paints cost $20 to $30 a pair and I have to look somewhat professional and clean so if I can get some of the paint out so I don't have to keep buying painters whites, it would save me a ton of money each year.

I have a brand new pair I destroyed yesterday when my fall protection lanyard rubbed on some wet Shercryl and now my new pants are ruined. Any good ideas would be highly appreciated.  Thank you.


texts: What is the smell coming through my HVAC system?

texts:
If I leave the furnace fan always running for an extended period of time (to circulate and filter the air), when the central AC turns on there is a not-so-fresh smell that is emitted through the vents.  It almost smells wet or stale.

This smell eventually disappears if the fan is not run in between AC cycles.

There is a MERV-16 filter, which is regularly replaced, located within the system, between the air intake and the furnace.

What is this smell?  What is causing it?  Besides not running the fan, how do you prevent it?


texts: How can I prevent ceiling stress cracks from coming back?

texts: I have ceiling stress cracks in my dining/living room ceiling, and it's coming time I tried to fix them.  I went into the attic and noticed the ridge from the garage that runs into the attic has no post, and there are 3-4 interior gable studs missing on one side too.  Can this be causing the cracks to keep coming back?  Before I rip down the sheet rock from the ceiling and replace it, (I've tried to fill the cracks 3 times already and they come back quick and I think from opening them each time with the knife has compromised the integrity already) should I post and put in those gable studs?  Or will it cause extra pressure pushing down on the ceiling?  HELP!!


texts: How can I join vinyl decking to metal door frame?

texts:
Shoddy workmanship by a lousy contractor has left me with a vinyl deck that allows water to leak into the garage below.  I identified the location of the leak - where the vinyl meets the metal frame of the sliding door.  He had put some caulking over the joint (not visible in photo, removed by me) and then screwed a thin metal cover across it, but this "solution" failed to keep water out.  The caulking had split in several spots along the gap, and it didn't seem to have cured properly on the vinyl (dry to touch but sticky/gooey when manipulated).

Is there a proper way to seal this gap that will withstand the elements (northern climate, snowy winters, sun-facing)?  I thought maybe fiberglass tape and roll-on rubber or vinyl coating but I don't know if it will stick to either the metal or the vinyl... help?

EDIT

The deck is about 1/8 inch lower than the frame on the left side, and flush on the right side.

Head-on view:

Entire length view:


texts: Getting Ethernet Cable Through Exterior Wall

texts:
I am looking to run Ethernet cable outside my house. I have already found this question on running Ethernet cable outdoors, but it does not cover the best way to get the cable there.

Ideally, I would like a standard Ethernet jack on the inside of a standard exterior wall in an American home (drywall on the inside, presumably some thermal insulation in between, and clapboard siding outside, about 6 inches thick judging by the window). Regarding this I have a few questions:

What is the best way to do this that has minimal effect on insulation? I would prefer if this did not cause a stream of cold air to flood into the house.
Do I need to be concerned with various housing codes restricting how I am allowed to wire this?
Is there a safety concern with regards to the jack coming in contact with thermal insulation?
How do I minimize damage to the exterior clapboard? Is this even possible?

Answers to any of these questions are appreciated. Thank you!


texts: I have an outlet and switch in same box. The box has 4 sets of wires- power source, light, and two others. The switch controls a light. When I replaced the outlet with a GFCI, everything worked expect that the switch was turning the GFCI on and off. The GFCI was wired without the load out- just line in. All the wires were pig tailed. I believe I need to identify the set of wires that goes to the light to rewire the GFCI, but am not sure how to do this.


texts: How do I fix stucco that is falling off of the walls?

texts: I have slump block walls that were covered in stucco at some point and now in places it's falling off. I know I need to power wash the wall and then use some kind of bonding agent so the new stucco will stick to the old wall but how do I apply the stucco? I feel like going from the skip trowel stucco look to the adobe look but that's a lot of walls to cover just to avoid learning how to do it the skip trowel way.  Suggestions?


texts:
I'm in the process of building a little grow cupboard for herbs and vegetables and want to make a row of 24-30W CFL's (compact flourecent lights) and have found these plug adapters:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281689827872

Are these safe to plug 5 of these into a power board that has a safety switch?

If not, can anyone suggest a safe alternative? I want to use multiple lower wattage bulbs instead of a few high output bulbs.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Outside garden hose bib plumbing - 1/2" or 3/4"'pex

texts:
I recently renovated and I now want to setup an outside garden hose. I can either hook it up to the 1/2" PEX or the 3/4" PEX. I have 3/4" PEX coming from main water entry to my water heater, then from there the whole house is on 1/2". (Side story, my water pressure / flow is not that great throughout.
Should I hook up my outside garden hose to the 1/2" PEX (that's basically feeding my kitchen) or setup a new new 3/4" PEX from my water heater (not talking about getting hot water out, just the layout)?
I guess this ties in the conversation, I currently bought a 3/4" hose, but if a 1/2" hose is recommended, I can do that also.
I don't have a big yard (25' * 25'), water source is for washing car and light gardening.
Open to advice!
PS: Saw this related post : routing hoses in the duff, 5/8" garden hose, or 3/4" garden hose, or 3/4" polyethylene? but still not sure.
PPS: Also open to advice on the 1/2" PEX, should I have had this done in 3/4" PEX?


texts: Blower turns on and off even though the unit is satisfied

texts: My heater works fine when I set the temperature to 69 and the temperature hits the desired temp it shuts off, then about 2 mins later the blower turns on like the heater is going to start up again, but since the desired temp is still satisfied the heater never comes on, the unit recognizes the fact that the system is satisfied so it then shuts off the blower.


texts: I saw a video where the mortar on brick steps was being repaired. The jointer being used had flexible, springy blade-tips, not rigid ones. I'm looking for the name of that tool. What is that style called?


texts:
My baby seems to love watching the ceiling fan spin. Not sure if he is retarded, bored or just super fascinated. Anyway; I was thing, perhaps I could add a few LEDs to the fan blades.

My question to the group:

Could I replace my blades with acrylic blades, then wire up LEDs at the start of each blade? My fan doesn't have a light on it.

Or...I don't know, add some kind of self powering LED, that's powered by the motion? I imagine I could drill a hole for the LEDs, place a coin holder battery pack on each place and that would last some time.

Any ideas on the best method?


texts: Goal: make hardwood slats for a bed thin to flex, w/o degradation

texts:
My goal is to make hardwood slats for a 4' wide bed, (center support, so span is 24"), thin enough so my heavier parts flex, adding comfort so I can minimize mattress. (Ideally, pad will be 1 inch cork, a nylon 'Persian-style' rug, and a very thin bed futon. I am thinking Japanese style bedding, minimal cushion. It needs to be thin to flex under my weight,  but not so thin that ot causes degradation that excessively shorten it's life-expectancy.

I saw the swing discussion, and thought about the International Council of Building Officials books, and tables that I used 40 years ago to determine thickness of joists and rafters for given spans, dead or live loads, pitch, etc.

I found a series of tables for hard and soft woods in a PDF download, I don't have the link, but it is titled, "Chapter 4, "Mechanical Properties of Wood," by  David W.  Green, Jerrold E. Winandy, and David E. Kretschmann."

I am struggling to grasp the understanding of the data. If someone would like a look, I think I can attach it to an email & send it.

Back to my problem: I am thinking of going with 3" wide ash stock, ripped to 1/2" to 5/8", to span the 24". I would like the board to flex at my shoulders for instance, to cause the bed at my shoulders to support an equal amount of weight as my abdominals for instance.


texts:
I have 3/4" copper pipe outdoors (backyard, above ground), and I am adding a couple tee fittings to branch to a different area.   I am having a hell of a time getting the solder to melt.  My next move is to skip solder and use sharkbite (expensive).  Any ideas on why this is so difficult?    Even if the pipe I'm working is removed from the system (thus, absolutely no water inside) still no luck.

I don't know the age of the pipe.
I'm using

Benzomatic propane (not mapp).
Benzomatic lead free plumbing silver bearing solid wire solder
Benzomatic lead free plumbing water soluble plumbing flux

The old pipes are green (oxidation), but I clean the joints with wire brush.
Fittings are brand new.

Edit: Yes, I'm heating the pipe joint and (trying) to apply solder on opposite side of heat.   My first solder attempt a year ago was successful, main difference is indoor vs outdoor.


texts: painting process for outside wrought iron

texts: I have just purchased new wrought iron rockers for my front porch.  They will get morning sun so sun probably is not an issue.  I want to add color to the rockers.  What do you suggest?  I'm sure something is needed to prevent rust.  Not sure what to do.  Thanks, Rhonda.


texts: When to use snap-off blade knife and when to use trapezoid blade knife?

texts: I want to buy a utility knife, but I don't know what are the advantages of snap-off blade knife over trapezoid blade and vice versa.


texts: Ceiling fan/light install with dual switch help

texts:
I have 2 switched for my ceiling unit and light and fan only work on 1 of the switches not both like it should. I had just a light fixture installed. I bought a fan/light combo and I have 2 wall switches. This unit has a remote module built into it.

Coming from the ceiling I have, a bare ground,a white, a red, and a black (capped off not connected to light).

I currently have the 2 green wires from the unit attached to the bare,
white to white,
black to black,
blue(from fan) to red from ceiling.

I have switched the black and blue wires around and it will only work from one switch or the other when I switch the wires.

I have looked at my living room fan combo and it’s working right and it’s wired the same. What am I doing wrong?  Any help it’s greatly appreciated as I am a new home owner and learning.


texts: Is it safe to have two separate circuits hooked to the same outlet?

texts:
Is it safe to have two power sources (meaning 2 sets of 12/2 wire) on one receptacle?
One set of wires goes to breaker #2 and another set of wires goes to breaker #7 but both 12/2 wire sets were hooked up into one receptacle.
Just curious why someone would do that.


texts: Flexible mains cord for cable management

texts:
To help with cable management I want to make some custom power cables for low power devices (computer peripherals, small audio devices etc. all under 100W). The smallest flex I can find is 1mm^2 PVC and not very flexible, for example it can't easily be bundled up and cable tied to hide excessive length due to the minimum turn radius.
The cables would have a standard British fused plug on one end and a C13 or C7 connector on the other.
I see 0.75mm^2 is available, as well as braided cable with fabric covering. It seems that the regulations are now that everything must be at least 3A rated. Is that correct, can I not use 1A cable any more? I have seen 0.3mm^2 on eBay but from outside the UK.
What is the most flexible 3 core 1A+ cable I can use in the UK? Is 2182Y 0.5mm 3A suitable?


texts: Elevated area around switch due to repair - need guidance matching texture?

texts:
I recently ripped and replaced a 2 gang switch so that I could run new wire down from a different fixture, and unfortunately my hole was much larger than the old work box I replaced the original with. To fill the gap, I used drywall paper tape and mud, leaving me with an elevated area around the switch. I'd like to match the wall texture to hopefully help conceal it, even a bit.

Question - can someone tell me what kind of texture this is? Looks like a form of knockdown, but not sure how to apply it?

I'm also open to other suggestions, even if that means cutting a larger hole :)


texts: How to remove what I think is a screw head caught in a waste disposal

texts:
I have a waste disposal, and what looks like a screw head, which is jammed in the waste disposal unit (an Insinkerator 55 if it matters).

This means as the machine is turned on, it makes a banging noise as the 'blades' hit it. I'd like to remove this obstacle but it's jammed tight.

The problem is, the angle. As per this image (red X shows where the screw is)

You can see, the sink is at the top and then insinkerator is below, but the angle of the hole means I'm limited to what I can get in. The screw head is fairly flush, I can't really 'grip' it with pliers and when I do, it doesn't really budge.

I have been whacking at it with a chisel and hammer, and it won't move (hoping to snap the metal) !

I've tried using a dremel tool and attempting to 'sand' or 'file' it away, but are there any other options for situations like this (other than replacing the entire unit).

I also don't seem to be able to take the unit apart so it appears as if my only option is from going in from the top!


texts: Is my contractor's proposal for a driveway base in Scotland suitable?

texts:
I have a question. I live in Scotland and I asked builders to do my driveway, about 60 sq meters. It is a driveway where I'll be parking the 2 jeeps I have, with a total weight of about 6 tonnes. These builders told me they are going to excavate about 40-50 cm, put 20 cm hardcore type 1, then 10 cm hard sand, then 10 cm soft sand and finally lay the blocks or slabs. According to them the driveway will be very solid and it won't sink. They said this is the way they all do up here in Scotland.

So I had a look around in the little village where I live and I noticed that almost all the driveways where people drive and leave their cars, are sinking, you can fairly see "waves" made by the weight of the cars.

So I asked a few friends of mine in Italy ( I'm Italian ) and they said that the driveways have to be done in this way : excavate 20-22 cm lay a heavy duty mesh like the one you use for ceilings, then pour 12-15 cm concrete and after a couple of days lay the blocks/slabs  using a mix of cement and lime. The driveway will never move for 100 years!

They said I could do like in the first example if I wouldn't be going back and forth with cars every day. Please give me suggestions cause the whole thing is driving me nuts...thanks a lot


texts: Is it normal to have a bulge along the seam between pieces of drywall?

texts:
We are just finishing up (cross our fingers) our first Wisconsin winter in our new (to us) home and the other day notice something strange along the exterior walls. Roughly 4 ft up from the floor a horizontal line is visible that continues down the exterior wall. If you run your hand down the wall (From top to bottom), you can feel a slight bulge right where the line is. It seems to be at the seam of the drywall.

The house is roughly 40 years old. There are no cracks in the anywhere on the drywall, which leads me to rule out a foundation issue. Could this be bad mud/taping/hanging job the builder?   or cold weather related? or something else?


texts: Replace manual thermostat with programmable

texts:
I have a Flair 3-wire thermostat, open common and closed, with 3 terminals marked 4.5.6. 4 black wire=open terminal, 5 white wire=common terminal, 6 red wire= closed.

I want to replace with a programmable thermostat but cannot find any cross references with this configuration. White Rodgers has a diagram for my thermostat but no chart to tell which terminals to use. I have a new 70 series White Rodgers programmable thermostat with the following terminals: R C W2 E Y O/B G and L.


texts: Should I insulate a finished basement if there is only 3 degrees difference?

texts: We are finishing our basement and I'm wondering if it is worth putting in insulation if there is only a 3 degrees temperature difference from my upper floors to my basement. This is during the winter months. The temperature in my basement stands at 66 degrees in the winter.


texts: What is the chance of success when clearing a downspout from the bottom rather than the top?

texts:
As you can see in the image, I have a blockage somewhere in the downspout.

After climbing a ladder leaning against the wall, I was still unable to see, nor even extend enough to reach, from the top. I am abandoning the idea of reaching from the top since I do not wish to lean the ladder on the eaves (please contradict if leaning a ladder against eaves is ever a sensible thing to do).

My next attempt is to reach with a drain auger from the bottom, after disassembling the bottom segment from the downspout. Do I have a chance of clearing the debris that way or should I just call someone to do it? How would they access it anyway? By walking on the roof?


texts: reclaiming exhaust from 'on demand water heater'

texts: Is there some way to recover the heat which is lost through the exhaust system from a 'on demand water heater' ?


texts:
In my house, I have a door that leads to my bedroom. This may seem trivial, but I would like to open the door just by pulling the handle towards me, instead of having to pull down. That is just an inconvenience for me. My door has a strike plate. I think that may be causing it to latch. I'd like the door to stop just before the strike plate if possible so I can open the door easier.

Does anyone know any way to accomplish this?


texts: Why is my air conditioner tripping the circuit breaker?

texts:
Our air conditioner recently stopped blowing out cold air.  When I went to check on it, I noticed that the outside unit wasn't coming on.  We had had problems with ants in the contacter in the past, and so I went to take off the lid and check it out. I noticed that the circuit breaker marked "AC" was tripped. Like a good DIYer, I turned it all the way off and back on. It immediately tripped again.  In an effort to isolate the problem, I went to the outside unit and pulled the safety connection to disconnect the main power of the outside unit.  When I went back and reset the circuit breaker as before, the breaker didn't trip. Reconnecting the outside safety switch caused the breaker to immediately trip again.  Later, we tried turning off the air conditioning in the house, resetting the circuit breaker, and turning the AC back on. The circuit breaker didn't trip as soon as it was reset, but when the AC was turned back on inside, it immediately tripped as before.

My question is what should I check in this situation?  This seems like it can't be an uncommon problem, so I'm sure HVAC professionals encounter this frequently and have a checklist of things to try.  What are the possible causes, remedies, and safety precautions I should consider in this situation?

Edit:

Answers to some comments:  No, I didn't see any obvious damage to the wiring near the outside unit.  I did look pretty carefully, since I had already taken the panel off to check for ants in the contacter.  I didn't try to spin the fan with my hand, and I'm not in a place that I can try this right now.  I will try it later today; perhaps in the meantime that could be a step in the diagnosis of the problem if anyone gives an answer between now and then?  Likely, future readers of this question will encounter the same problem and some will have a fan that spins by hand and some will have one that is stuck.


texts: Closed the closet door and Kaboom the acorn thumb latch broke off. Looking for a solution to open it

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After I closed my closet door the acorn thumb latch fell apart. The part I depress with my thumb fell off in front and the door is locked. There is a small hole where the thumb piece was inserted, but I can not see much as the hole is small. There is a video on Thumb-klatch install on YouTube so I now believe the piece in the back must be moved up to unlock the door. My two questions are what tool can I insert through the small hole to lift the latch upwards? if that does not work, how can  I remove the two large brass hinges that are holding the door on? Any Tips or knowledge appreciated.
[![The actual door that is locked.][2]][2]


texts: Is it possible to refinish floors one room at a time?

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I live in a small townhouse and would like to refinish the floors in the upstairs of my home.

It is very difficult to do all of the rooms at once, but a friend suggested that unless I do this, the transitions between the rooms and the central hallway will not look right.

I understand his point but I am hoping it's possible. Has anyone refinished wooden floors one room at a time?