texts: How do you control what angle plumbing joints go in at?

texts:
I'm an electrical engineer, working on repairing a somewhat complicated pneumatic system, but I figured this would probably be the best place to ask. This is probably a very basic question to anyone who works in plumbing, but I couldn't find anything about it online.
When you have right-angle pipe fittings, the kind with NPT threads that you screw together, how do you control what angle they screw in to? If you just screw two things together, the relative angle between them will be essentially random as it depends on the exact angle of where the thread starts and how far the threads engage. But we need to put in pipe at specific angles to align fittings to other parts of the system, so how does one actually do that?


texts: Adhesive for PVC-glass in a high temp situation

texts:
I am making a steam condenser for my chemistry project, as our lab is not equipped with one. The materials I am working with are a 0.5 litre glass jar (was a honey jar) and some plastic pipe I bought from a hardware store (not sure about the material, but it is see through, and labile to heat). My plan is to have 4 holes in the jar's lid : Input/Output for the gas, and another I/O for the cooling water. The steam pipe will be arranged in a spiral on the inside, a small distance apart from the walls.

However, I am concerned about the adhesion, as it may come off under the high heat, and may be not be suited for plastic-plastic or glass-plastic-joints. Thus, I am looking for advice on which glue to use for this task. If the temp. goes above 110C, then the ethanol is on fire and giving me bigger problems.

Pipe Specs : Vinyl tubing, Inner diameter 7-8mm, Thickness 1mm
Jar Specs : Soda glass, Thickness 3-4mm, Outer is 8x8cm square with rounded corners, Height 15cm

Adhesives I currently have access to are Glue Gun Sticks, M-seal(Epoxy), Feviquick(not sure if it classifies as hot glue), and Crafting glue(Fevicol).
EDIT : I am open to product recommendations, but can only order them from Amazon and such.

Note :

I realize this may be too much information, but I can't reply back quickly so the more you know.
I also realize that this may not be right Stack Exchange site for projects like these, but I wanna talk adhesives and the site says DIY.


texts: Electric range's clock/timer went out and oven bake/broil will not operate

texts: After 2 years of normal operation, my Kenmore range's clock/timer shut off and oven elements don't heat. Surface burners work fine. I replaced the clock/timer board, but that was no help. I hired an electrician who told me my 30amp 240V range circuit should be 50amps, but told me nothing else. After 3 weeks, and exasperated, I bought a different range thinking it was a problem with the old range, but the new range has the same problem. Would this problem be caused by a range rated for 50amps that's operating on a 30amp circuit? If not, would there be another problem with the house wiring?


texts: How can I tell if a faucet valve seat is removable or not?

texts:
I have two faucet valve seats that I've been roadblocked with. It looks perfectly round in appearance:

Left Side:

Right Side:

Hot/Cold Stem:

Things I've tried:

Penetration Oil
Hammer + Screwdriver
Seat Wrench

After watching a couple hours worth of youtube tutorials, it seems most valves have faucet seats. However I did come across an article and a forum post that made me double-think my scenario.

https://www.hunker.com/13417444/how-to-remove-a-faucet-seat-that-is-stripped

  Look carefully at the seat with a flashlight before you decide that the wrench hole is stripped. If the hole is perfectly round, the seat isn't removable.

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f2/resurfacing-valve-seats-11567/

  In my early days in this trade most faucets had non-removable seats. A proper repair meant reseating with a tool designed for the job.

This brings the question: Is my faucet valve seat removable?


texts: What would cause a gas fired, forced water boiler to shut down?

texts:
I have a fairly old Peerless, natural gas fired, forced water boiler. It has an electric ignition system (White Rodgers 50E47-843 Universal HSI Ignition Module).

A few weeks ago it shut down (safety lockdown, blinking red light). After I cut and restored electricity to the system it restarted without trouble. But then, a few days later, it locked out. Any time I cycled the power to the system it restarted fine, and would be fine for a few days. I replaced the HSI igniter (glow plug) but that didn't fix it. I am unable to find an exact replacement for the flame sensor.

This morning, it locked out again. When I tried the power-toggle trick the glow plug lit up, as before, but the gas didn't kick in right away; it started after the glow plug stopped glowing.

I have two questions:

Any ideas as to what might be the problem?
If I want to replace the flame sensor, the specified flame sensor is a WR-760-403 which does not seem to exist anymore. The closest thing is the WR-760-401, which differs from the 403 in that it's a straight wire, as opposed to a bent wire in the 403. Can I used the 401? Should I bend it (in a vise, or something) to match the shape of the 403?

Update:

A few additional points:

I've noticed this tends to happen more often overnight when the thermostat is set lower. However, it does happen at other times and higher thermostat settings, too.
Cleaning the flame sensor did not help. I did that this AM, this afternoon when I got home it was in lockdown.
This is a new issue; We've been in the house for 3 years without a problem. Nothing changed since last season, or since the beginning of this season.
I've only seen the weird timing issue once out of tens of times the power-cycling worked.


texts: How to remove stubborn adhesive residue from my windows?

texts:
This sounds ridiculous but I was Googling forever to no avail.
We have been scrubbing like mad for four years with all purpose cleaner.
I’m not sure what kind of product to use to clean or clean off the adhesive that’s trimming all of our vinyl windows at the window-sill interface (we had these windows installed in 2016 and no amount of elbow grease has helped).

Thank you for any help you can provide!


texts:
I have two 4-ft x 4" x 4" wood posts, and each post has a screw eye. There's 12 feet of distance between each post.

How can I tighten a piece of 1/2" diameter rope that goes through each screw eye and it's stretched tightly without having to buy turnbuckles?

There has to be a knot just for this.


texts: How do I repair cracks in the concrete pillars supporting my patio roof?

texts: I have two round concrete pillars that support my patio roof. I have noticed that they have cracks even though they are new. I suspect the filling of mortar and bricks inside those pillars was not good enough and now I don't know how to solve the problem. I am afraid that the roof might collapse.


texts: Does it matter where my furnace condensate pump gets power from?

texts:
The existing condensate pump for my furnace recently died.  It was hard-wired directly into the electrical panel of the furnace but I was able to disconnect it.  However, when looking for a new pump, all the models I found had a standard 115V wall plug.

I have plugged it in to a nearby outlet and the pump is working fine, but is this the best method?  Would it be better for me to cut off the wall plug and wire it directly into the furnace like the previous one was?


texts: How can I patch a subfloor going under an exterior wall?

texts:
We recently replaced our leaky patio door, and are left with two ugly water damage spots (pictures below). I'm pretty sure the rot extends below the door and the wall on either side.

If the problem areas were in the middle of the floor, we could just cut and replace. However, since the damage extends below the wall, I'm not sure how to remove or replace the subfloor in those areas.

In case this matters, the floor below is a basement. The room below the left side rot is unfinished and we can access the bottom of the subfloor, but the spot on the right has a finished ceiling below it and can only be accessed from above.

What steps do I need to take to properly replace the subfloor underneath the exterior wall and patio door?


texts: So Cal garage conversion: Proper way to level floor

texts:
I own a tract house built in southern california built in 1995. There was a builder option to have a 3 car garage (standard 2 car with tandem garage) or a super family room where the extension creating the tandem garage is used as part of the family room instead of garage. My house currently has the 3 car garage and I would like to convert it to the super family room. I pulled the original building plans (which are terrible quality) but I can tell that the current wall separating the tandem garage from the house is not load bearing. I feel like this should be a fairly straight forward conversion but after talking to drafting professionals and contractors they seem to make it out to be a much larger job and have left me with a couple specific questions:

The current garage floor slopes from back to front (as expected) 1 3/4 inches to 4 inches. I am wondering what the proper way to level this flooring is so I can conform with building codes?

Does this require a structural engineer (as has been suggested by a couple drafting professionals)? I thought it would just require additional concrete with some bonding agent...

(Updated 5/18/18) I had one architect+engineer tell me that the city is going to require the slab be replaced because it was not constructed with a moisture/vapor barrier under it. Does this sound right to anyone?

Another suggestion made by someone who used to be in construction was to use 2x4's on their side to frame out a floor and shim up to level. Thought I would throw that out there as a possible suggestion and see what people think.

Here are some images so you can get a better idea of the space and slope:


texts: Why won't my thermostat control the HVAC anymore after trying to switch thermostats?

texts:
I bought a new Nest thermostat which is supposed to be compatible but needs a professional installation (advice that should have been heeded by non-professional electrician me). This is to replace an old finicky thermostat that must be original with this 20 year old house. After wiring up the Nest and starting to go through the menus, I realized it was better to let a pro do it. So I put everything back the way it was with the old thermostat.

... Or did I... With the old thermostat back on, the heat keeps going up and up without being able to be switched off or lowered by the thermostat. I can get the HVAC to turn off by removing the front face of the old thermostat (like in the pictures below) but that's all the control I have.

Here's the wiring before I attempted any changes:

And here it is after I tried to get it back on:

I've scheduled a pro to come out and install the new thermostat this coming Monday... But that's a while to wait now not being able to control the heat. Plus I'd rather have the old setup working before he gets the new one put in. So... HELP!

Additional information - maybe not relevant:

I did have the breaker to the house completely turned off while switching out thermostats. The first time I put the old one back on, the display went nuts flipping through numbers. So I took it right off, flipped the power to the house back off... Double checked the wiring and how well screwed in it all was... Then put it back on and powered back up. After that, the display is completely normal, but the HVAC ignores the settings still. The thermostat even makes the same "click" that it would if I changed the temperature above or below the current temperature, but nothing changes still.


texts: I tried hammering the screw a bit to loosen it. Any suggestion? I'm thinking of getting something to saw off the holder and hammer the screw into the wall.


texts: I have red water leaking/dripping from the vent bathroom fan in the second floor bathrooms. This only happens after a good snowfall and during the snow melt as it warms. We get about 6 hours of dripping and are getting 2 cups of it. What can we do? The attic and vents to the attic roof seem to be sound. Could it be from the vent cap and why is it reddish/pink in colour?


texts: Can a shower surround be cut to fit a window?

texts: I was planning on putting a shower surround for my basement bathroom.   As you can see in the picture.....the surround will block part of the window.   Do I just leave it be and have it block, or can I cut that section out?   Think it depends on the type of surround I get


texts:
I have a BedJet device that I run at night that keeps tripping the ARC-fault breaker in my bedroom after about 30 minutes of running nearly 70% of time (other times it works just fine). I have tried moving it around to another circuit (also AFCI) but it trips there as well.

I contacted the manufacture and they said that ARC-fault breakers are just sensitive and I should have it replaced with a non-ARC fault breaker. I also was thinking of buying a surge suppressor to see if that stops it from tripping. Could this potentially be dangerous? I don't want to increase the risk of a fire if something is indeed wrong with the device.


texts: Top loader washing machine fill valve drips continuously

texts: I have a top loader washing machine. When it's done washing it keeps dripping from the top fill valve, where the water fills up the drum.


texts: Mold or dirt? Leak for 6 months saturating this area.


texts: Copper plumbing component Identification

texts:
Does anyone happen to know what the component that I circled here. It is a simple thing that I need to buy to go around a 7/8 inch OD copper pipe.

Also - where would I go to get one?


texts: What is the correct way to fix a leaky drain trap that is not detachable?

texts:
I have a shower that has a leak in the drain trap. From this picture, it appears to be leaking from the drain to pipe connection to the shower pan, but that part is actually fixed as it was leaking too. It is actually leaking now from the connection between the pipe and the drain trap turn in the center of this picture:

Is there a good epoxy or cement I can put around the connection to seal it? It is a slow leak. If not, what is the best way to fix it?


texts: What would cause a kitchen sink to drain very slowly?

texts:
I snaked my kitchen sink drain to the end of my 20' snake so I know there is no clog for 20'.  When I run water into the sink it starts to fill up immediately - not enough time to fill 20' of pipe.  When the dishwasher drains it begins filling both sides quickly but only for an inch or two.  This has been a problem ever since we installed a double sink.  I'm tempted to install an air gap (aerator) for the dishwasher but I don't see how that would help.  There is no problem with the vent since my vent is in the wall behind the sink (with a one way valve) because I took the valve off, snaked the vent pipe, and that made no difference.

After the sink fills a bit it will stay full for a few minutes and then at some point when the water gets low enough it will drain a little faster - that is why I think there needs to be an air gap to break a siphon but again I don't see where the siphon is happening.

I'm stumped.


texts:
I'm working on a remodel of a 1960's home and redoing the wiring from scratch. I'm drawing up electrical plans. I understand most of the codes and have all of the outlets planned out. I'm having a hard time understanding modern lighting wiring. I see many examples of loop-in wiring. It seems strait forward, but code requires a neutral in the switchbox. I don't get how its done in modern times. The examples I see in modern lighting only have 1 light in the diagram. The house is small a little under 1000 sqft 2bd 1 bath. I want to run all the lights off of 1 circuit if possible. Except for the bathroom shower light/fan which needs GFCI protection when installed in the shower area. I want to run a total of 10 - 11 light fixtures and 8-11 switches (depending on if I use pull chains in the closets and pantry or switches and if I keep the bathroom light on the lighting circuit). I will be wiring from the main panel through the attic to each light. I'm In AZ. Local code just refers to the NEC.
My questions are:

Can I run all lights off of 1 circuit?
Can I run the shower fan/light off of the bathroom circuit?
Should the bathroom light also be on the dedicated GFCI circuit for the bathroom or on a non-GFCI lighting circuit?
Should I not have a lighting circuit and pull from an end of run outlet from each room? I have receptacles planed out which are dedicated for each individual room. In the kitchen I have 2 counter circuits. I dont know if that is allowed to be used for lighting?
If I do a lighting circuit and do a home run with 14/2 to a switchbox and 14/2 to the fixture where do I splice the next run to the next light? In the switchbox?

That is what I'm assuming the code wants. Basically all switchboxes wired together in a parallel fashion, pigtail to the switch and run to the lighting receptacle. Or is that wrong? I wish I could see a full diagram of how this circuit works and what is normally done these days. Any help is appreciated!


texts: I have 4 wires on a new switch, 2 of them going to ground. One green and one silver (bare) coming from the bracket of the switch. In the electrical wiring of the house I have a neutral wire, what do I hook that wire to?


texts:
My HVAC system is around 15 years old and I have a washable air filter.  The tech who looked at it last told me to clean the filter out and run water through it once a month.

He told me to let the filter dry for 3 hours before replacing it.  I had a different tech tell me, however, to shake the water out of the filter and put it right back in.

So that leaves me with two questions.

Do I let the filter dry for 3 hours or shake it and put it back?
Is it safe to let my HVAC run for 3 hours without a filter?

Thanks for all help in advance!


texts: Relay requirements for Heatpump Thermostat

texts:
I would like to understand if three 3-relays are enough to control a heatpump.  As I understand it, 24V AC is applied to:

Green: Fan
Yellow: Cool
White: Heat

When designing a network connected controller, are there any other circuits that should be controlled by a relay?


texts: What size is this wallplug, and then what drill size (and type) would I use for brick?

texts:
I'm trying to hang a hose "butler" from Home Depot (Model CHH200HB). It comes with three wallplugs and screws, so should be simple, but there is no sign of what size the plugs or screws are, nor which drill size to use. Can anyone help? Here are the plugs and screws, with one of the plugs in a gauge:

So it looks like the outer diameter of the plug is 5/16" -- that's at the widest part (and these plugs have no flange). Does that immediately tell me the drill bit too should be 5/16"? Seems obvious I suppose, but the general wisdom seems to be that if you've drilled the proper hole, the plug should be very tight, even needing a hammer to insert. That might then imply I should use the next size down, but what exactly is the "next" down from 5/16? I have one that is 1/16 down; i.e. 4/16, or a quarter inch. But how do I know that's the right one versus, say, one that is 1/32 down; i.e. taking 5/16 = 10/32, then a 9/32" bit (if there even is such a thing)?† And of course that could get even finer grained. Instead of 1/4", or 9/32", how about 19/64"?

Second, if I'm drilling into brick, what type of drill do I need -- i.e. do I need a special brick-and-other-fairly-hard-stuff bit? I have one of those yellow boxes of Dewalt bits you find in Home Depot, but I don't know what type they are. I think I'd have bought a general-purpose-ish set, meaning not just for wood, but do these look like they'll handle brick?

If I do need something like a hammerhead, then all I have are these UK/European bits:

and I have no idea how to relate those numbers to any other screw/drill/etc numbering system on the planet.

Finally, would anyone else agree with me that while there are plenty of bad things in the world, including possible imminent nuclear war, antibiotic-resistant bugs, and too many TV shows with the words "The Real Housewives of..." in the title or with Simon Cowell as a panel member, the biggest source of misery is the lack of standardization on screw/drill/etc diensions?††

thanks!

† FWIW, I tried to gauge the screw diameter too (not that it matters, I guess, since if I get the plug's hole right, I implicitly accommodate the screw), but it's hard because the threads are quite deep. On the gauge, it sits around 7/32", or maybe 13/64".

†† Although if it were a competition, then screw dimensions would get a good run for its money by the corresponding issue in cooking and baking (I mean, in what universe is a "cup" an appropriate unit for measuring mass  -- really?)


texts: Should I be worried about tears in my foundation wrap?

texts:
I recently moved into a newly built house in an area still in construction. My house was completed before my immediate neighbours. While they were excavating, they took large chunks of our foundation wrap out.

I made this known to our site supervisor. His solution was to pin back what was left over as "it [is] deep enough down from finished grade to worry about sealing".

I looked up the installation manual for the "DMX Foundation Wrap" that they used. It has a section on fixing tears, so I'm weary that leaving it alone is an acceptable solution. Additionally, it suggests that it be installed an inch below final grading (which it is). Evident in the pictures below, the tear is about half a foot down. Is half a foot really "deep enough" to not be of concern? Will this have any future detrimental effects on my foundation? Should I request this be repaired/fix it myself?

Edit: There's not actually enough material to pin back. It's completely gone.


texts: Would painting the underside of plywood serve as a vapor barrier to protect the plywood from absorbing moisture?

texts:
I will strip the 3/4"tk x 3" wd t/g kitchen flooring and replace it with 3/4" t/g plywood.
I will install solid vinyl planks (akin to laminate flooring) on top of the plywood.
The question: Would painting the underside of the plywood serve as a vapor barrier to
protect the plywood from absorbing moisture? It will be on above ground 24" center floor joists. The floor is approx 2' above ground level and sits on pillars.


texts: Hinges have come loose from particle-board cupboard

texts:
I have a large number of built-in cupboards made from laminated particle board (called chipboard here in Australia), with doors attached with two or three cabinet hinges each.

Either the previous owner liked to swing on the doors, or the cupboards weren't of high quality, because there are three or four hinges around the home where the chipboard has given way, and and the hinge has come loose from the side of the cupboard.

I am trying to decide whether to move the hinges up or down a small amount and reinstall (leaving holes in the chipboard), or whether I can just use polyfilla (or similar) to patch over holes and re-drill them.

Neither sounds pretty, but it is hidden from public view so I am not too fussed about the appearance.

Is polyfilla a disaster waiting to happen or a reasonable approach? Is there a third option?


texts: A spark from a power strip recently made the electricity go out is it safe to turn it back on?

texts: About a week ago my daughter plugged up her iPod to a power strip that was plugged into an outlet in her bedroom, she said she placed the iPod onto the power strip and let it sit there while she plugged it up, then it made a spark, and the electricity in her room went out. The iPod was burned on one side from the spark.  So my question is, could it of happened just because she placed the iPod onto the power strip  or could it be a bad power strip or is it the outlet? I haven't turned the power back on in her room because I'm afraid of a fire, but if its just the power strip then I could easily replace that. I can't afford to call an electrician right now and would like to be able to get her back in her room with out worrying about a fire. (Update) 8/5/14 Since I posted this, my daughter told me the power strip was only plugged half way into the wall when this happended, I also just noticed the outlet looks like its been burned, The power strip looks  normal. The iPod  still works and we are still using the same charger in a different outlet. Thanks.


texts: Anybody can tell if this is termite or water damage on the picture?


texts: Can you run a ground wire from stove directly to ground pole in the ground

texts: Directly to ground pole outside drove into ground


texts: Metal glue that cures in coldish weather?

texts:
We have Pella glass storm doors that have been nothing but trouble since we bought them several years ago.
The handles connect to each other (through the metal door frame) via a bolt thats in the shape of a rectangular prism (that is, both interior and exterior handles have square receptacles that the rectangular bolt fits into). The handles then have hex screws that clamp down on the bolt via allen wrench:

The problem is, the hex screws loosen up habitually, and either loosen so much that the handles (when you go to use them) pull right off of the rectangular/squarish bolt (hence, you pull the handle right off the door) or even loosen so bad that they fall off. I've had to replace them several times, and being specialty parts, take weeks to come in.
Proper solution: tear the doors off and replace the Pellas with something better.
Quick n dirty solution: I'd like to glue the handles right on to the rectangular bolt.
Is there a metal-to-metal glue that holds up reasonably well and that cures in 50 - 60 degree weather?


texts:
I was told by some people from the store that there exists 2 types of percussion types regarding the rotary hammer drill: the pneumatic percussion and the mechanical percussion. I need a confirmation if this is true or not ?
The second question is: What is the difference between a rotary hammer that has a pneumatic percussion system and a rotary hammer that uses a mechanical percussion system ?
The 3rd question is: how can I identify (if the manual does not specify) which is pneumatic and which is mechanical ?


texts: How can I remove one switch in a three-way circuit and maintain switch function?

texts:
I have a double light switch that should operate 2 seperate lights in the lounge and dinning room. There used to be a single light switch that was operating the light in the lunge, but it was removed as i wanted to keep the double switch only.
The wires Ive got coming out for the double switch is:
    Cable 1: red, black, earth
    Cable 2: red, blue, yellow, earth

The lit switch has 2 leads, each with L, L1 and L2.

Is there any way of connecting the witres to the switch so i can operate both lights again without needing to have the other single light switch connected?

Please advise.

Thanks


texts:
I have a 100 ft run to make. I was going to cut a hole in the existing concrete , lay the cable and pour concrete over top. I am just having troubles figuring out what my different options are for cables. So far I know,

Teck cable ( I feel it is going to be the most expensive)

Can you please answer me if

I am able to run electrical conduit or regular white walled conduit with some single strands inside?
If I am able to run conduit with BX or Loomex inside?
If I am able to run NMDU ( the loomed with the black outside, weather rated).

It seems to be the embedding in concrete and filling in with concrete that is tripping me up. As well as if you can feed cables like loomex through conduits. I always thought you were only aloud to for a very short run but can not find the code rule saying that.

Thanks everybody.


texts: Can I install lights on a 20 amp circuit that has receptacles already wired?

texts:
I have never been able to ask the following question and get a simple straight answer and would like to know why there is a controversy, and what the answer really is.

The question: Can a 20 amp 12 AWG circuit for receptacles that are general use receptacles in living areas be used to supply power to a light or two and the switches that control the light or lights? If power is just as easily supplied by a lighting circuit with room on it, then of course one would use that. But if the most convenient supply for the lights is this 20 amp 12 AWG circuit then can it be used?

I have been told yes more times than no. But the no answers have some more detailed take on the issue as it pertains to code.


texts: Does a 125 AMP panel require a heavier supply cable than a 100 AMP panel?

texts:
I took a look at some of the other threads, but none seemed to give me a clear answer:

My house currently has a mess of a load center setup that I need to correct. There are two Square-D 22? space panels wired to each other, with one being a subpanel with a 60 AMP link from the primary one (there is a 60 AMP breaker in each panel that are linked together with some super-thick aluminum braided wire). The primary panel has a 100 AMP main breaker, connected to the meter outside.

Aside from this thing being a monstrosity, the "subpanel" has corrosion in spots on some of the breaker contact points, reducing voltage to 108 or so on some circuits (diagnosing why some things worked and others didn't when plugged into certain outlets was a multi-day adventure.) The thing that just pushed me into action is that the screw-downs for the feed from the meter on the 100 AMP breaker are corroded, and one is actually loose and occasionally arcs.

I don't have a lot of vertical space to go with a 200 AMP panel with a lot of spaces. I can get the same footprint Square-D panel with either a 100 AMP or 125 AMP main breaker. I can also reduce the number of breaker spaces I need by consolidating circuits (LOTS of the interior outlets are direct runs to the panel, there's no reason the LR, for example, can't all be on one breaker instead of 3), and by using a few tandem breakers.

My questions:

Does going from a 100 AMP to a 125 AMP panel require any change in the gauge of the wire coming from the meter?
Is there any limit to the number of tandem switches that can be used in one of these panels (e.g., Square-D  HOM2448M125PC)?

Thank you!

John


texts: How do I get this shelf off my wall, no screws showing

texts:
This wall rack does not have any screws showing  in the i

Any ideas of how to get it off the wall?

Thanks


texts: Just patch a leaking crack in the basement wall, or do more?

texts: During a remarkably heavy rainstorm last week, a small puddle formed in our basement. We could see that the water entered the basement through a fingernail-sized crack in the interior concrete wall. Is it enough to patch the concrete, or are we inviting more serious trouble down the road if we don't investigate the state of the outside foundation wall (at least until there's a recurrence)?


texts: I'm installing a glass mosaic back splash. The tiles are 3/4 inch square and are mounted on a mesh of size 13 x 13 inches. They are 5/32 of an inch thick. I am having trouble with my technique to get good mortar coverage on the wall so the tiles stick well. What kind of trowel (v, notched) and what size would you recommend and would you flatten the ridges to get an even coat on the walls or would you leave the ridges in the mortar and put the tile on that? I am using a glass mosaic motor with a polymer.


texts: Saggy around sistered floor joist, how to fix?

texts:
Our house has a single floor joist that has been sistered running down the center of the kitchen. Sounds great except for the part where all the other floor joists have sagged a little bit and now there's a nice ridge in the middle of the floor.

Any recommendations on how to fix the issue?


texts:
I was messing around in the attic  evaluating our wiring  and found that we have a couple of lighting circuits that, at their extreme ends, employ a bit of 14/2 wire, greater than 50 feet from the panel box.
In some cases it's the switch legs only, and in others  the final branch supplying a light AND its switch leg.  The majority of the circuit consists of 12/2 wire  and the breaker is 15A.  I don't think anything ends up much over 60 feet from the panel  unless you count both the hot send AND return from the switches. In which case there is at least one that ends up about 65 feet altogether from the panel.
I was thinking perhaps the fact that the majority of the circuit is 12/2 means the voltage drop will be negligible.  True?
Appreciate anyone providing a more educated opinion.


texts: How can I determine what size and type of filter is required in my air handler?

texts:
I just moved into a new house with a Trane Air handler (model TWE065E13FB) in the crawlsapce. I went to replace the filter as this was suggested maintenance and I found that there isn't a filter in the slot. Should I install a filter? If so what kind of filter? Looking online it seems that a 20x25x1 filter is the correct size.

http://www.jonesairconditioning.com/trane-filter-size-guide.html

The manual for the unit indicates the filter surface area (sq.ft.) should equal to CFM/300 for low flow and CFM/500 for high flow. I have 1600 CFM with a 4 ton heat pump (400 CFM/ton). If I use the high flow this gives 3.2 sq.ft., about a 20x25" filter. Is this the correct way to do this calculation. I can't see the filter slot accepting different sizes of filters without modification.

I'm not particularly sensitive to dust or allergens and on my return air vents I just use the basic Rheem/home depot pleated filter (20x20x1). Would a similiar filter be suitable for the air handler?


texts: I need white concrete for a countertop sample, but the only white concrete-like product is white mortar. If I just add an equal sized bag of gravel to the mortar, will it be close enough to use as concrete? If not, what else do I need to add, and at what proportions?


texts: Okay to shift toilet a couple of inches?

texts: My toilet is set in a corner and is not square to the walls, so that when sitting on it, one’s left knee almost touches the wall-mounted TP dispenser. I can’t relocate the entire toilet, but shifting it slightly so the tank is parallel to the back wall and perpendicular to the side wall would help...even if just a little. It is NOT bolted to the floor. Truly, about an inch and a half is all that’s needed. I’m a senior lady and can physically manage this, just don’t want to create an issue that’d require a plumber. Thanks for your help.


texts: Hot water cylinder (direct heating), loosing heat and pressure during the day

texts:
I moved into a new property a few months ago with a direct heating hot water cylinder. This is a new one for me as I have always had a gas combi boiler before.

I have economy 7, so the water heats up during the night. The thermostat on the immersion heater is set to 60° c and and in the morning the gauge always reads 60° and 2 bar.

Usually when I get back for work the temperature has dropped to about 58°c which seems pretty good to me.

There is a recirculation pump which the previous owner had disabled, I decided to leave it disabled as it seems a waist of energy circulating hot water all the time when I am out.

However in the last week when I get home the the gauge has been reading 40°c and 1-1.5 bar. Along side this I am now getting hot water at the kitchen tap almost Instantly, where as I used to have to run it for a minute.

Is it possible that the recirculation circuit has just started working on convection only? Or could I have a leak?


texts: How do I install hanging cabinets with a flimsy backing?

texts:
I went and watched this 1 min video clip about hanging cabinets:

http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_3d_index.asp?page_id=35750421

It seems to say to just screw my cabinets into the wall (where the studs are) through the back of the cabinet.

The cabinets I am going to buy from home depot don't really have a solid backing (not sure what it is, but it is some kind of thin composite material.)  If I screw through that I am fairly sure that my cabinets will rip off the wall in fairly short order.

What is the procedure for getting those to stay on the wall?  I would rather not put a second layer of wood inside my cabinet, but that is all I can think of now (or use a really really big washer :)

I would welcome any ideas.


texts: Washer and dryer in a recessed nook - how do I support a countertop above?

texts:
So I have a recessed nook about 64" wide and 30" deep (it fits my washer and dryer side by side, plus a 6" narrow cabinet pull-out). I'm planning to have a (probably quartz) countertop installed.

I presume attaching some wood to the walls to serve as cleats is going to be needed. What is unclear to me is exactly how substantial those cleats need to be. Naturally, I'll do the thickest wood I can fit without causing fitment problems for the washer/dryer, but it's going to be tight enough that I'd like to know how skinny I can go with the cleats before I start running into problems.

Right now it looks like I have, at most, 3/4" of clearance on either side between the wall and each respective appliance. Can I do 1/2" thick cleats on the sides (maybe thicker against the back wall since I'd have the space)? Are the countertop guys going to show up and laugh at me, or does this sound viable?


texts: Can I use a single insulated wire to upgrade knob-and-tube?

texts:
I took out a chimney, and this is what I'm left with. I'm considering putting a junction box in the attic, splicing in new wires to come down to the switch on the far right (I need it moved about a foot) and running a hot wire down to the replace the wire going between switch boxes.

Is this to code? Everything would be in junction boxes, but it wouldn't be new cable all the way to box. If I do it myself any considerations? I'm guessing it would be a single wire in between, as it's only hot (or neutral)

.


texts:
I just finished tiling the shower surround around my tub. I knew that the tub wasn't level when I started but it became more evident toward the end of tiling.

On one end of the tub, there is 1/8" gap between my tub and the tile. On the other end of the tub that gap expands to around 1/4" or more. I checked my tile and it's level all the way around—it's just my tub isn't.

I plan on caulking this gap but are there any special considerations for a gap that large?

Thank you


texts: How should I connect my humidifier to HUM terminals?

texts:
Had my system replaced last summer. When they hooked up the humidifier, they just went to the transformer output for power. Now anytime humidity is below the set point, the water runs even if the system is off. Doing some research I found out this unit has HUM terminals. How do I connect my humidifier to the s9v2 HUM terminals? I put a multi-meter across the terminals to see if its 120v or 24v but just get 0v. This was measured during a call for heat and with no call. Am I measuring correctly? Or is it from one terminal to somewhere else?

Model number S9V2B060U3PSAAA

Thanks, Scot


texts: Pool pump wiring - 115v motor okay with L5-20 125V 20A Receptacle?

texts:
I have a pool pump that I recently bought used to replace a failing pump. The motor is rated for either 115v or 230v (low/hi switch) operation.

My previous pump was wired with a 12 gauge line to a L5-20 125V 20A receptacle.
So, I replaced the standard 110v three prong line on the new pump with the 12 gauge line.

Will having the 125v wired into the 115v pump leads cause a problem with the motor?
Meaning, is that additional 10v going to burn out the motor?

L5-20 plug:


texts: Chronic Flame Sensor Failure - Furnace and Water Heater

texts:
My house is 9 years old. About 5 years ago the Lennox gas furnace began to go into lockout. The problem was diagnosed as a dirty flame sensor. Shortly after, the same problem occurred with the Rheem gas water heater which is near, but not next to the furnace. As a result, the flame sensors on both have to be cleaned or replaced at least twice a year.

The first time I contacted Lennox customer service they advised a reconfiguration of the furnace exhaust/air intake. After that didn't help, I sent Lennox 4 of the replaced flame sensor rods to be analyzed; I never heard back.

One service person talked about fumes from cleaning supplies, paint, even carpeting which may be contributing. Another service person said this flame sensor problem is common and I should expect to have it cleaned at least once a year.

My current plan is to replace both items because at least I'd have a functional warranty. But is this saga familiar to anyone? Thank you for your feedback.


texts:
where should I install the bypass duct and humidistat of a whole house humidifier if the humidifier was installed on the return line?
I have the Honeywell Model # HE120A1010 Drum whole house humidifier.
And I have 3 zones in the house.


texts:
I have a Cutler Hammer CH30e panel. On the right side on the panel there is a neutral bus with the a #6 cu ground and a 1/0 Al THW neutral. The bus is also connected to the panel

What I find very strange is that on the left side of the panel where I'd expect to find a ground bus, there are two lugs with all the grounds from the panel connected to them and screwed into the panel.

Is this proper?  I have never seen this done before. Should the grounds have been connected to the empty slots on the neutral bus?

Here are the labels from inside the panel. It appears I can use a CH9G ground bar but I don't know how I'll get it in there as the 2-2/0 AL go right up that left side


texts: Can I tie into a 12 gauge 20 amp line with 14/2 NM-B to run a light?

texts: My refrigerator line is 20 amp with 12 gauge wire. Can I tap into that with 14/2 wire, and run a light switch and 1 LED light?


texts: Why are adjacent breakers for unrelated circuits ganged?

texts:
I'm looking at electric panels in some newer residences and seeing something confusing: Circuit breakers that are adjacent to each other, but that cover unrelated circuits, are ganged, as shown below.  By "unrelated circuits" I mean circuits that have no reason to trip or switch together.  For example, "Master Bed Lights" and "Living Room Outlets" are adjacent and ganged.  So are "Bath GFCIs" and "Office Outlets."  (And then there are a few adjacent breakers that are not ganged.)

Is there some code or other reason for ganging unrelated breakers like this?


texts: A separate electricity counter exclusively for heating the basement?

texts:
I got a recommendation to start heating the crawl space in the building, as simple as placing two heaters with thermostats on two exterior walls (the other two are attached to neighbouring units), putting them to 5°C (41°F), and leaving them on for the winter.

All units in the building are occupied by tenants. Is there a straightforward way to separate the cost for heating the crawl space and their electricity bills? Perhaps a separate electricity counter exclusively for heating the basement?


texts: Paper cone paint strainer for latex paint

texts: I'm trying to strain some run-of-the-mill latex paint that has rust from the can, etc. I have used filters like the one shown below in 100 micron and 190 micron, and both clog almost immediately (with paint, not debris). It seems like they make 400 micron strainer bags for 5 gallon buckets, but I haven't been able to find anything bigger than 190 micron in this paper cone style. Is there is a different product usually used to strain small quantities (gallon and quart)? How do you do it?


texts: Is there some kind of adapter for an old ceiling box?

texts:
I was replacing a light in the entry vestibule at our new house with a cheap flush mounted light fixture. When I removed the old light I discovered that the ceiling box is an old type with a cross bar attached to a thread central nipple with a nut. The cross bar had screws pointing downwards that attached the old fixture with two nuts.

Unfortunately, the old screws didn't match up with the holes on the new light fixture (that would be too easy) and the cross bar that came with the new fixture wouldn't fit on the old box because of the central nipple (and there's no where to screw it in). I ended up rigging something up by screwing the new cross bar into the old one, but I'm not exactly happy about it. The light doesn't sit quite as flush and I'd hoped with the ceiling, but it seems secure.

Is there some kind of adapter available that would fit these old ceiling boxes? I really, really don't want to try and replace the box itself and I have some other light fixtures to replace that I fear may present the same problem.

Edit:

I don't have a picture right now, but looking around on the internet, it's not entirely dissimilar to this box (although mine is completely cut out without the screws through the ceiling):


texts: Switch from 5" HVAC Air Filter to 4" Air Filter?

texts:
Hi: I have 2 HVAC systems that use 20" x 24" x 5" air filters that are quite expensive to replace @ $60 each every 9 months.

Would switching to 4" filters be ok assuming I change them slightly more often? They would save me some dough.

Thanks!!


texts: What do I need to fire proof a room added onto a mobile home?

texts: I have a mobile home. I poured a concrete pad to put an addition on it. I have wood studded walls, metal roof and siding. I'm putting a wood furnace in this addition. My insurance company says it has to be fire proof with more than just drywall. What else will I have to use?


texts: Can 2 light bulbs of 120V in series be used on 230V AC?

texts:
I'm considering to buy full spectrum incandescent bulbs in the US, to be used here in Europe. Here these types of bulbs are rare, since it's mostly LED these days.

First I thought I needed to step down the voltage, for instance with a travel converter for the US market. But someone made a side remark to switch it in series.

I know a 120V bulb on 230V mains would instantly burn out. But from high school experiments I vaguely remember the series layout might actually work: put 2 bulbs in series and the 230V would be half: 115V. But what about the current?

Questions:

Would 2 bulbs rated 120V/150W in series on 230V mains work?
Would they glow (almost) equally bright as 2 bulbs rated 230V/150W in a parallel layout?
Would it work with a dimmer?


texts: Turning off two switches at same time trips breaker

texts:
I have a double light switch in my house (1 inside, 1 outside light) that will trip the main switch in the circuit breaker when both switches are turned off at the same time. Turning either one off individually works fine, and turning them both on at the same time also works, but if both lights are on and I hit both switches, it'll trip the main switch and I lose power in the whole house.

Has anyone seen this before, or can someone suggest how I can start to diagnose this? I don't understand why this could be happening.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I'm in the UK - completely forgot about that!

Just to be specific here, the unit in question is something like this: image. The left hand switch is responsible for the outside light (and is the only switch for these lights), the right hand one is responsible for the inside lights. There is another switch for the inside lights, so this is a 3 way switch.

This is not a new installation, has never worked properly that I'm aware of, and the switch has never been replaced.


texts: How do easements work with gas lines on new construction?

texts:
I have a gas line (2" polyethylene main) going down my long (1/2 mile long) driveway. Half-way down, it splits to serve the neighbor and myself, each of us being another 1/4 mile apart and the end of the line. The neighbor's line follows a fence line and is more less not a concern of mine. My line (assuming it is "mine"?) takes off toward my house through my yard / field for 1/4 mile and terminates at my garage where the meter is. This is North Western Energy, and Montana.
I see no easements whatsoever on the property except for the electrical lines further away, which I eliminated (meter now at the boundary):

Is it typical for your property to have a gas-main, and have no easements?
Defacto easement: When I had the utility company extend the line to the house, do they have an easement automatically right up to the house? Maybe I didn't read the small print...

Depending on the answer to these questions, I have legal questions which I will reserve for another SE.


texts: How come when I use an extension cord to run my ac the outlet and the plug of the extension cord gets hot it's on a 15 AMP breaker and the AC states it is pull 12 Amps and there is nothing else running on that breaker


texts:
I am looking to install some LED strips in my closet to light it up. Since it is full of shelving, I figured I would run it up, across, and down the door frame (roughly) so the shelf contents could be seen. I am based in the northeastern USA.

I purchased these strips: LightingWill SMD2835

I've been looking for power supplies and I see the many varieties available, from simple plug-in AC adapters to sealed water-resistant bars to boxes with vent holes (and a fan, even).

It seems the latter two options generally come with bare wire only (yes, I understand that you can simply add a plug); my question is:

What are the requirements for mounting these power supplies? I highly doubt that a vented supply, with terminal leads visible can just be mounted in the open against a wall. Similarly, even with the IP rated bars that are bare wire, how do you solve the house power line connection issue?

Do you place the power supplies in some kind of electrically approved box? Do the bare wires make a connection in a junction box and then comes out through some cover plate? Or something else entirely? Curious what is out there.

Thanks!


texts: upgrade to a 200 amp service, cable wiring sizes

texts:
The house currently has a 3/4 inch conduit to feed the main wires coming from the power company to the breaker box. This is very much inadequate. I plan to upgrade to a much bigger breaker box.
My question is what size wire should i use from the meter to the breaker box. There is no NEC or any kind of regulation here and SE wire doesnt exist here so ill just run separate wires through a new conduit.


texts: How to install a drain cover in the shower for this opening in the floor?

texts:
We have a tiled shower in the house we just bought.  The drain cover is not there anymore.

I bought the drain cover that is closest in size.  However, it does not fit perfectly. There is about 1/8" gap all around.

There are two rusted screws I believe on either side of the hole.

At first, I made a ring of plumber's putty and put it on top of the hole...and slightly in the hole.  I then sat the drain cover on it and pressed down.  I then realized that it is quite soft.

What is the best way to install the drain cover for my shower?


texts: what to do where hardibacker meets drywall?

texts: Went to remove old tile from laundry room sink backsplash and it was placed onto textured and painted wall(believe it was an after thought of previous home owner).  As the tile was removed it pulled all the paper from the drywall.  Had to cut out the the rest of tile and drywall out.  Now we are down to bare studs and was going to place hardibacker in place of drywall.  What do I use to tape and float the seam between the backer board and the drywall? Do I need to tape the seam?


texts:
I bought a Wifi enabled light switch to smarten up my living room but i cant figure out how to wire it.

Here is the back of the original switch:

And here are the wires from the socket:

Finally here is the new wifi-enabled lightswitch:

As you can probably see there are 5 wires, 1 black and 4 red. One of the red wires has some green shrink wrap attached.

Is it possible for me to wire this switch?


texts: How do I take down an internal wall tied into a load bearing wall?

texts:
I'm looking for some advice on whether something I want to do is sensible and any potential risks.

Background:

Between my dining room and utility room at some time there must have been a doorway. Inside my utility room I have a small (4 ft high) brick wall that comes out of the profile of the existing wall that separates these two rooms. There is no load on top of the utility room wall and seems largely useless apart from it takes up space in the utility room. What I would like to do is remove this wall. However on closer inspection what I can see is that the brickwork is tied into the existing wall that runs along these two rooms. This wall is load bearing far as I can see. The way it is tied in is that every so often half a brick is in the existing wall and the other half into the brick work for the wall into the utility room. I think its about 8 bricks in total that are tied in out of the 100 or so bricks that make this wall up.

What I want to do:

If I was to take down the utility room wall and used an angle grinder to cut the bricks that are tied in would this be OK ? Essentially I leave the half that is tied into the load bearing wall in place. I could then repair any damaged cement work as well.


texts: How far should the recessed lights be from 24” kitchen cabinets?

texts:
Most of the info on the web calls for lights to be centered at the counter’s edge. However, my upper cabinets are going to be 24” deep - basically matching the counter.
The upper cabinets, as well as the range hood will have an led lighting, so lighting for counters is not a huge issue. It’s mostly to light the immediate area of the cooking area. There will also be a soffit right above the cabinets, that is housing duct work. The soffit is stepping out another 1.5-2” from the cabinets edge.
In front of this area (about 40” from the counter) there is also an island that will have its own recessed lighting.
How far should I place the lights from the upper cabinets’ edge?


texts: Upgated pump for 10 zones, 3 floor house?

texts:
I currently have a tanco (I don't have the current model # now) in a 5 zone 2 story house. I was recommended to upgrade to a tanco 0010-F3-1IFC bc I am adding 5 more zones, and  2 zones will go up to a new third floor at the other end of the house. What should I be looking for to buy a correct pump? horse power? I am assuming I need more house power for a efficient flow? especially bc how far and now high the other zone is? Anything else I should look at?

Any recommendations for something within the same family of the tanco 0010-F3-1IFC but more powerful?


texts: An engineer (when I bought my house) said I should fire-block my fireplace. Does anyone know what this means and how to do it?


texts: Which lamp bulb for a stronger & warmer lighting?

texts:
My old desk lamp uses G9, 40W Halogen capsule light bulbs and I love how warm it feels. My new lamp uses E14 LED bulbs (200 lumen, 2500k) and it's a lot weaker and colder. I don't know if it's colder because it's weaker or not.

Is there another type of bulb that would be both compatible with my lamp and recreate a lighting as strong and warm as my halogen lamp, or at least come much closer to it?


texts: RF controlled switch turns on first load on power restore

texts:
I have installed a 3 channel RF remote controlled switch in my house that I recently bought (Image attached below)

I have made the connections as follows

Live Wire : Live wire
2 x Ground : Ground
Output 1 : Load 1
Output 2 : Load 2
Output 3 : Load 3

Everything works properly in normal conditions, but after power-cut when the power is restored, 1st load gets turned on by itself.

I have 2 of these RF switches installed at 2 different rooms and both behave in the same manner.

How can I avoid this unexpected behavior?

Thanks


texts:
I have a sillcock that I want to replace though I can not tell if it is threaded on or soldered. I have tried turning it but it will not budge. If it is soldered, will it be hard to un-solder and re-solder the new one on?

UPDATE (question):
How can I find out what length I need to by for my sillcock?


texts: After installing expansion tank, massive buildup of pressure then a trickle?

texts:
I am completely stumped.  You guys helped me out a lot with my previous question here: What could be causing water to drip from the relief valve of my new gas water heater?

Turns out the expansion tank bladder was filled with water and needed to be replaced.  I got a new 2 gallon 100 psi max expansion tank but before putting it on I measured the water pressure at around 100 psi which seemed awfully high to me.  When I turned a faucet on the pressure would drop to around 50 psi and I would get a steady stream of moderate pressure.  It seemed to steady at around 68 psi so I used that as a good starting point.

Instructions that came with the tank said to install at 2 psi below normal cutoff pressure.  Thinking that was awfully specific, I set the air pressure in the new tank to 65 psi and installed it.

I ran the faucets a LOT to make sure I got all the air pockets out but now I notice bizarre fluctuations in my water pressure for the past few days.  I have normal water pressure in the basement, acceptable water pressure on the first floor, and virtually NO pressure at all on the upstairs floor, where this was never a problem before.

Leaving the gauge on downstairs the pressure would slowly continue to rise as high as 100 psi at times EVEN AFTER seriously turning the pressure regulator back.  When I turn the water on I get a good stream of water then 5 seconds later nothing but a trickle as the water pressure only reads 20 psi when the water is running.

So now I only see four possibilities:

The gauge is broke, there is no flippin way that I have my pressure regulator turned back that far and actually have 100psi build up in the pipes all the way from 20 psi.
The pressure regulator is broke, it is extremely old looking and doesn't have a PSI reading on it, just a hex bolt head that when turned out will decrease the pressure.
The new expansion tank is defective and slowly leaking air into the system causing me to have almost no pressure upstairs
I set the air pressure too high/low in the new expansion tank and it is causing havoc with my internal pressure.

About the only positive thing I can say about everything is that my safety relief valve on the water heater is no longer leaking water so I must have done something right.  Maybe I just need to increase the pressure to the house but if my pressure increases to 100 psi slowly while the water heater runs and I have an expansion tank rated for 100 psi then I am afraid I could be creating a dangerous situation.

Any suggestions?  I am going crazy over this and I stink because I can't take a proper shower ;)


texts: Vapor barrier on Bathroom tub exterior wall(s)?

texts:
So I keep seeing conflicting answers on this. I'm renovating a bathroom that was torn down to the studs. On the exterior wall I have siding-tyvek-plywood sheathing-fg insulation inside studs.
My plan is for an alcove tub with cement board backer above waterproofed with redgard prior to tiling that sits above the flange of the tub. Do I put plastic all the way up to the ceiling behind the backer board? Some say that will trap moisture in the cement board. If not do I just put the vapor barrier on the bottom half up past the tub? What about the two interior walls?


texts: Wiring home network patch panel (568A vs 568B)

texts:
I've bought a data patch panel in order to cleanup my home network wiring (which was a mess). Before wiring the patch panel I didn't read about the two wiring options: 568A and 568B.

I've wired the patch panel as indicated (panel is 568A). I've installed one cat5e outlet in order to test if it was working properly.

I've used a basic network cable tester to see if everything was ok and it wasn't successful.

After reading more on the subject, I realized that my patch panel is wired 568A and the outlet is wired 568B.  So my two options would be to
1. Re-wire the outlet to 568A; or
2. Re-wire the patch panel to 568B

What is the best option ? Is there another option ?


texts:
I know this issue has been beaten to death but i am stumped and nest support has no clue how to help me.

I thought i had the issue resolved but that was wishful thinking. Here is my issue:

I have a nest hooked up to a separate heating and cooling system. The ac has 3 wires ( rc, g, y1) the boiler has two wites rh and w1. The nest worked great until the weather started getting warmer and the boiler stopped kicking on as much. My battery started dying and i would lose connection to the stat.

I called nest they said i would need to use a c wire from the boiler. I had a spare wire behind the wall so i traced it to the boiler and hooked it up to the other side of the transformer. I got 24v across rh and c. But the nest says no power to Rh and the battery still does not charge.

Thinking somemore about this issue i know i wired it correctly so i removed the rc wire from the stat and reconnected the nest. The battery charged and the heat worked. All the numbers were perfect.

When i hook up the rc the battery does not charge and all my numbers drop. And it says i have no power to the c wite.

It seems to me that the nest is trying to utilize the rc and c to generate constant 24v which of course will not work because the wires are from different transformers.

Nest says i need to pull the c from the ac unit. ( but she only mentioned that after i told her what i thought was going on)

Do i need 2 c wires? If so where do i hook that into the stat and why wouldnt the rh and c circuit work?
Getting to the ac unit in the attic is not really that easy.

How do i fix this issue. Or should i just throw this damn nest against the wall which i am thinking of doing.

I should add that i reconnected my old wifi thermostat including the c wire and it worked perfectly.

Is there some way to force the nest into using rh and c as the constant power supply to thw nest?


texts:
Some retaining walls from the home improvement store stated that Maximum Wall Height is 2 feet. For example, Tranquil Olde Manor Concrete Retaining Wall Block from Lowes. My question is that why there is such limitation and if I can do some "workaround" to get it to stand up for 3 feet instead? I mean if I glue them and have proper crushed rock / drainage, I don't feel like 3 feet would cause any issue.

Can you give me some suggestion on why or why not? Thanks


texts: water heater bottom element not functioning after thermostat and element change

texts:
This thursday, we realized that we have a lot less hot water than before, so I went to check out the tank and sure enough, the bottom element was not heating anymore.

I did a few tests with my multimeter (granted, I really don't master its usage) and it looked like the element itself was faulty.  so I went and bought a new element and replaced the old one... no luck

So I figured the thermostat was the issue.  Bought a new one, replaced the old one, still no luck.

Now, there is one little piece that I forgot to put back when changing the element and it's basically a small bracket that links both things together which I figured was only there to hold the thermostat in place better.

To put that back in I have to unscrew the element (which means emptying the tank or having a lot of towels nearby).  Could this bracket really be what's preventing the element from heating?  Otherwise, what could it be?

PS: I know for a fact that the electricity reaches the bottom element as I got shocked a few times while poking around (I know I should be more careful)

EDIT: look at Page 10 Figure 3, TWIST-LOCK flange element part #2
http://www.giantinc.com/tech-data/manual_residential_electric.pdf


texts: Is this an Ethernet cable running to my alarm panel?

texts:
8 conductor cable, not plugged into anything nor terminated. Thank you!
EDIT: Just to clarify, I'd like to use it as an Ethernet cable and it is not currently being used for anything, so I want to see if I can just crimp Ethernet connector to it (and find the other end) if it'll work as an Ethernet cable without causing any problems.
I believe that jacket reads "24 AWG C(ETL) US LISTED 2003548 TYPE CMR/MPR FT4 BKC 118163 25BCB FEET ETL." Photos below:


texts: Can a non-professional drill holes in a granite countertop?

texts:
I recently bought an under-counter kegerator and need to have some holes drilled in the granite countertop for the tap.  The template and mount has 1.75" hole in the center (to run the beer lines) and then 4 small 3/8 holes around the center hole where bolts are placed to secure the tap down to the kegerator.

I called our granite installer and they want $200+ just to come drill the holes.  Looking online, you can get Diamond Core Hole Saw Bits for $40, and smaller diamond bits for the screws for around $10.  Obviously this is cheaper, but can a my standard corded Rigid drill (not VBR or hammer) handle this?  Wonder what the risks are in chipping the granite?  Some people recommended putting a ice cube in the bit to keep it cool and emulate a wet drill.  What would be a technique to get the bit started, so it does not move when making its first cut into the stone?

Any other tips?


texts: Electrolux EOB51001 oven making loud vibration noise when switched on

texts:
I have quite an old Electrolux oven (model number EOB 51001), which has started making a loud vibration noise instantly as soon as it is turned on. This happens when turning it to any setting other than off, including grill or even just the light being turned on. So this rules out the main oven fan - it definitely isn't that. The sound seems to be coming from somewhere around the top of the oven, near the front.

Grateful for any suggestions on what might be causing this and how to rectify.


texts: Washing machine hot water hookup valve repair

texts:
Recently I found my washing machine hot water hookup drips slightly when the washer is not attached. I believe it is a bad valve. When the washer is attached, water flows to the drain and doesn’t cause any issue. I talked to a plumber and he said the cheap solution is to put a cap on the hookup when there is no washer attached, but if I really have to fix the valve then he will have to cut up the dry wall and it will be very expensive.
I don’t want the bad valve to affect the pipe in the wall (water corrosion etc.) and cause bigger damage in the future but also don’t want to spend the money if it is not necessary. I don’t know much about plumbing so I want to ask here to see what your guys say.
Should just let it stay like it is or repair/replace the valve?


texts: Achoring with Drill versus Anchoring with Spanner

texts:
I'm trying to anchor a bench onto stone. Through holes I've drilled into my bench posts, and holes that I will have drilled into concrete, I plan to drive lag screws.

A fail-proof procedure calls for me to drill the lag screws. Unfortunately, I can't find the socket that would connect my drill and lag screw.

As an alternative to using a socket and drill, I plan to drive the lags using a spanner. A spanner would join the bench and stone less securely, but I'm concerned that the attachment won't be stable enough. Is my concern well founded?


texts:
Want to take up another DIY at home, restoring steps to attic. I want to clean them up and make them shine. I see tons of products in Lowes and home depot on Floor restore/shine.
Anything you guys recommend ?
Right now the steps have paint droplets and dust(tried to clean the dust with vaccum cleaner but doesnt go).
Thanks in Advance.


texts: Copper to CPVC transition fittings : allowed by code to be used inside a wall?

texts: Does the Uniform Plumbing Code (US) allow copper-to-CPVC transition fittings to be used inside a wall?  Just to be clear, I'm referring to the hybrid fittings that are part brass, part CPVC.


texts: What is the correct connections for a Murray MP215AFC breaker for a Split A/C unit

texts:
I seem to be running into a never to be found answer on the wiring for this 240 2 pole combination AFC breaker.

I have a Split unit wired L1 & L2 with a ground back to the sub panel not a neutral.  The breaker requires a Neutral panel connection for the coiled up white wire. It also requires the L1 & L2 to be hooked up to the breaker. I'm all good with this but, it wants the neutral LOAD from the A/C unit back into the breaker's Load Neutral which i don't have.

I am not using a neutral but i am using a ground return that is tight to the ground bus bar of the panel.  I can not see plugging in the ground return to the Load Neutral connection of the breaker. That makes no sense to me.

Murray's information seem to point to leaving the Load neutral connection empty and keep the A/C ground on the panel ground. No one has been able to clarify this. I know the AFCI rules may not apply to 240 V circuits but I want to protect this anyway. I found a similar GE breaker which has NO neutral load return on the breaker but i just want to hear it from an expert.


texts: What is involved in enlarging a concrete garage door opening?

texts:
I have a concrete garage with an opening measuring 99" wide by 85" high. There is 10" of concrete from the door opening to the left and right walls and about 1' above.  All walls are 8" thick and there is nothing above the garage except a wooden flat roof.

I want to enlarge the door opening by shaving off 4" of concrete on each side which requires two 8" deep cuts that are 7' long.

Will it significantly affect the structural integrity of the garage? In
other words is there a chance it will collapse and do I need
additional reinforcement?
What is the effort and materials involved in it? Can I do it myself
    if I rent a 14"-16" concrete saw? I will need to cut from both sides
    as it will not be deep enough to cut 8".
Is there anything else I need to be aware of for this kind of project?
Is it worth paying $800 to a contractor rather than doing it myself?

Here are some pictures to give an idea (click for full size):


texts: Replacing a fan fixture with a light fixture

texts:
My fan had a dual pole light switch... one for the fan, and one for the light.
So the ceiling has 4 wires coming from it.  One is a white ground, one a white wire, another red, and another black.

My light fixture has only 2 wires plus a ground.
What do we do with the red, black and white wires?


texts: Should I avoid ground loops in branch circuits through conduit?

texts:
I've got some outdoor conduit within which are three separate branch circuits:

A general purpose, 20A outdoor receptacle circuit
A 15A HVAC circuit
A 40A EVSE circuit

I am using NM-B for each circuit on the indoor segment that connects the breaker to the conduit, at which point I transition to THWN. The NM-B has a ground wire included, and I know that I only need to ground the conduit to the 8AWG wire from the EVSE circuit. My question is, should I not connect the ground wires on the 15A and 20A circuits to avoid creating a ground loop, or does it not matter?


texts:
Today I tried to replace my tub faucet since the old one was dripping out of the front. The new one looks great! Unfortunately, it seems to drip at the supply pipe. The following picture shows the back of the tub, where the supply line connects.

I have circled where it is leaking--in between the ring which fastens the faucet to the tub and the part which connects the supply pipe to the faucet shank. It is leaking on both sides. Tightening the connection and adding more thread seal tape did not help. Any advice?


texts: What can I do about this gap between my driveway and the street?

texts:
I have a low car and the ditch between my driveway and the street is pretty big. I usually enter my car in reverse at a very steep angle as to not have it scrape the lower front. My neighbors park cars pretty much around the driveway and it is sometimes not easy to get in at such an angle as not to scrape. I would like some suggestions I can do on the curb itself to alleviate this problem.

The drive way is about 14 feet long. The ditch is about 18 inches (between the driveway and street) and 3 inches deep.

The street is slightly higher than the driveway. If I get a chance, I’ll take a picture with a level.

More pics

More neighbor examples


texts:
Since I moved into my house, I've not had the key for my garage, so I'm looking into how I can get a new one. I've found what I think I need to replace on eBay, but there are a lot of variations on the same thing, and I don't know what the numbers mean or what I need for mine:

40/10
45mm
40/40

Not entirely sure what these are (assuming measurement of one of the dims) but I don't know what I need, ideally I'd like to order the new one I need before I have to take the old one out, but I get the feeling I'm going to have to in order to measure it, can anyone give advice?


texts:
Short version

Is there some table that tells one how much HP an electric motor is and the gauge of the wire needed to run to it???

Long story

Our well went bad, losing pressure. We have been living in this house for 15 years without doing anything to it. Six of Dad's friends from work came over and pulled out the well pump as it was only 430 ft down.

Ta-Da

and specs

Note that there is a bunch of black tape that came loose. It's a 3/4 hp with 430 ft of 12 gauge wire going down the well, plus the wiring going to the electric box, so at least 530 ft of wiring at 12 gauge from the well pump to the panel.

According to the manufacturer's table from the  service manual
the maximum wire length is 480 ft.

Clearly it wasnt an issue. Can a 1 hp be used as a replacement and the wiring be OK?? Or is the problem the well itself needing to be replaced?


texts: How high up should I put the ice maker connection box?

texts:
I'm going to finally connect the refrigerator's ice maker to water. Because the water line will come from the basement (and not from a kitchen cabinet), I have bought this connection box to install in the wall behind the fridge (Data sheet):

But how high up on the wall should I put the box? Is there a standard height?


texts:
Let's say I have a hole like this (not my actual hole just one that I found for my situation)

As you can see the existing drywall is flush with the 2x4.  What I want to do is cleanly cut away enough of the existing drywall (about an inch) on both sides so I can put in a new piece to fill the hole and screw to the existing 2x4s.  This seems like a better approach than screwing pieces of wood to the top and bottom and mounting the repair to the existing drywall.  The problem is that the only way I can think to get that inch is to kind of stab at the drywall and pick away little bits at a time.

Edit

Due to all the interest, here's my actual wall/hole.  On the left I ended up cutting it past the stud because there was another dent in the wall.  The story is that the previous owners, in their 80s, hit the wall leaving big caved in portions of the drywall.

[


texts:
I am not a diy person but I'm trying to replace a light switch.
I bought a non contact voltage tester and a new single pole switch.
When I took the plate off and pulled the switch out it appears the ground wire ( if I know what I'm looking at is going from one switch into the other. After looking at some YouTube videos I'm a bit confused with the setup. The switch I'm trying to replace is on the left side it operates only the light in my master bedroom The switch next to it is a three-way switch that operates a hall light.
Before I start to replace the switch is this setup correct?
I have a ceiling fan light that doesn't work with the remote or the switch I'm not even sure if a faulty switch would cause that issue but I thought I would start there. Using my non-contact voltage tester the switch is getting power. I've turned the power off at the breaker and I'm ready to replace the switch but I was a little bit confused when I saw the way it was wired is this normal?

Attached photos.


texts: Is there a way to fish a cable (network) using an existing one as a guide?

texts:
Are there any devices that allow you to basically clip a wire to an existing wire in a wall and use it as a guide?   I had my house wired for networking, but that was before I upgraded to gigabit fiber.  I want to run the CAT6 cable from the fiber box up into my garage ceiling over to my network rack  across the garage, but not sure how to do it.   I've got access to the holes the installer used to run the cable the first time, and I can easily get from the modem to the existing wires, but I don't want to have to re-pull cable from my upstairs just to pull this cable through.    I thought about trying to use an existing wire as a guide, and fish new cable through, but only way i could think of that is to use maybea paperclip or something to attach to an existing wire, then use fiberglass rods to push the new cable along the path of the old one.

Is there an easier way to do this without using one wire to pull new wire through?

Edit:  Maybe I wasn't clear enough.  I don't have pictures at the moment, but I'm not trying to run new cable to existing outlets, I'm trying to using an existing cable (lets not call it ethernet, lets say it's a power cable or telelphone or coax or something to make it easier) as a guide for a different cable.

I have a 3 story house (garage, 1st, 2nd).   In one corner of my garage is a small 6U cabinet with router, core house switch, UPS.   In the other corner of my garage near my utility panel is my Fiber gateway from ATT.  Currently I have a cable strung along the ceiling running from the gateway to the 6U rack.  I  want to run this up through the garage ceiling and back down... but it's about 20FT away, through insulation.   In the middle of my garage, i have a small access hole my network installer used to help run the CAT6 cable from 1st and 2nd floors to the garage.   From this hole I can easily go about 8FT to where the gateway is, and another 18-20 ft to where the 6U rack is.   I basically want to thread new cable up into the ceiling from the modem, pull it over to where the bundle of other cables from 1st and 2nd floor come, and then join it to where the rack is.   I thought about undoing one of the 1st floor cables and using that, but that would mean pulling/terminating new cable to the first floor, just to act as a guide in the garage ceiling.  I was hoping for a tool or something to basically hook in at the ceiling hole, and then "push" along an existing wire to run the new garage line.

If pulling existing cable is the only viable option, I guess that's what it'll have to be, just trying not to yank anything existing out if I don't have to.


texts:
UL 489 certifies only the clearance, but is there a standard specifying how energized bars are connected to the circuit breakers?

Or is matching brands for circuit breaker boxes and circuit breakers themselves the only way to make sure they're compatible?


texts: What to do with airgap on a sink with only one hole?

texts:
My wife and I just bought a new house and she's partial to the composite sinks. However, the sink we purchased (and installed) has only one hole for the faucet fixture and not for the airgap. We also have a garbage disposal (from previous sink) and dishwasher. I ended up loosely angling the hoses towards the upper end of the cabinet so the chrome cover was closest to the counter top.

We tried to run dishes in the dishwasher and water naturally filled into the sink. We stopped the cycle and haven't used the dishwasher in the meantime, but what should I be doing? Do I, or can I, position the air gap under the countertop as I have? Should I cut a hole in the sink? (Unhappy wife scenario) Should I return the sink with one that has the appropriate holes?

Here's a rough image that I had on my phone already of the situation. I can get some better pictures tonight if necessary:

Update

I goofed up, seems the stickers indicating where the punch out holes were had fallen off. So, I was able to punch the air gap hole out of the composite sink and file it down.

Before I punched the hole out, I was thinking of connecting the dishwasher directly with the disposal using a "high loop". However, apparently "high loops" are not to legal code in the state of Washington.


texts: Using drywall screws for electrical boxes?

texts:
I am installing the following items:

and I am using regular 1 1/4" drywall screws to secure them.

Is there any concern in regards to shear strength or rot that would make me regret using drywall screws?

I am fully aware of the adage "Drywall screws are for drywall; it's in their name." but it seems like they are more than sufficient for my application.  Especially with the single-gang box because the head will lay flatter making sheetrock easier.


texts: Top Fixing Toilet Seat Bolt won’t unscrew

texts:
Any ideas for getting this guy on the left out? When I unscrew it I just hear a squeaking sound. Guessing that the nut has rusted onto the bolt and the whole plastic assembly is turning.
Thanks


texts: How to insulate garage walls from the outside?

texts:
I have a partially finished double garage that has no insulation in the exterior walls.  Half the garage (10'x20') is finished and is now my office, and half (also 10'x20') is now a workshop.  The dividing wall that I put up in the garage does have insulation, so we're just talking about exterior walls.  There is a bonus room above the garage, so I have no access from above, if that matters.

My plan is to remove the T-111 panels from the outside of the house, cut the tyvek house wrap, lay the batting in the walls from the outside, then put back the wrap and T-111.

For the record, I have removed and reattached a couple of the T-111 panels before without incident, but didn't have the time/foresight to deal with the insulation issue back then when I did it.

Are there any downsides to doing the insulation from the outside as opposed to taking down the drywall inside, or cutting holes in the drywall and blowing insulation in?  Any special procedures for putting back (or replacing) the house wrap?  Can I just seal the cuts in the house wrap with some kind of tape, or do I need to fully replace it (though it seems like I would still need some sort of tape there)?


texts: How much of a shed can be framed using 2x4 lumber?

texts:
The place I work at has been ordering new machinery and it comes in with 2x4 frames. They are throwing the wood away!  Anyhow, I can get all I want.

So my question is how much of the shed can I do using only 2x4's?  I see most bases of the shed are done with 2x8's or something along that line. I will be building it off the ground with blocks as I cannot afford a concrete slab at the moment.

I would like to build more of a shop than a shed. Maybe 15x20?  But my longest "free" wood is 12 ft. My current shed is a dirt floor. I could live with that if need be.

My current shed is old school. I live in the country, so no certain requirements have to be met. Anyhow, the sheds bones are old utility poles. It's in an awkward spot, so I wanted to build a newer one in a different spot. The walls are tin. No plywood on the walls. Roof is tin as well. I'm just trying to see if the wood I get at work will be enough to cover 90% of the cost. I want 20ft long, so can I build 2 ten ft walls and join them together to make 20ft?  I understand that may not be proper, but it's a shed not a house.


texts: What is recommended to fill openings between panels

texts: I believe wood paneling was used on my mudroom floor. Dirt collects in the crevices. Is there a way to level the floor,by filling in the cervices.


texts: Are cleats/brackets for attaching timber to brick available in different sizes

texts:
(Based in the UK) I am building a fence on top of a low wall by attaching 100mm fence posts to the brick wall and then attaching my fencing to the posts.

My problem is this the fencing is quite heavy so the posts have to be sturdy. I was originally going to attach the posts to the wall with three throughbolts per post but the wall is under the control of the Environment Agency and they will not allow this.

Instead they have asked me to attach the posts with three 'cleats', a metal bracket that would wrap around the post, be attached to the post in the centre and then attached either side of the post to the wall via a small rawbolt. The actual post is 4" (100m square) but I need to add another 2" (50mm) of packing so that the posts stand clear of the wall coping.

My problem is that I cannot find such cleats, I have found a fixing band that could be bent round

http://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/fixing-band/756

but I dont know how easy that is and how strong it is. I would prefere ready made cleats, so my question is does anyone sell cleats to the size required.


texts: Is it a bad idea to attach inside mounted blinds to side of trim?

texts:
I would like to install some cellular shades.  I'd like to inside mount them, but my window recesses are very small - as little as 1/2".  For a shade that requires a recess of at least one inch, one thought I had was to replace the existing decorative trim boards with a simple 3/4" pine trim that is flush to the window frame.  This would give me 1.25" of recessed depth, assuming I don't mind attaching the shade partially to the window frame and partially to the trim.

What problems do you foresee with that approach?  I would obviously stick with lightweight shades and make sure the trim boards are attached well to the wall.


texts: Why is my garage grounded ONLY when it rains?

texts:
My garage is not connected to my house and it's on a circuit that contains a few outlets inside the house as well. I found out the first time I tried to charge my PHEV that the entire circuit isn't properly grounded. I had an electrician come look at it, and found some old wiring that he replaced and it worked! Until it didn't... All of a sudden it wasn't grounded anymore.
The electrician came back over and when he went to test it, it was grounded properly?! Turns out this was just after a rainstorm. Now I've found this to be true that every time it rains, the garage circuit is grounded properly and when it's dry, it is un-grounded again.
Now the electrician want to tear up the underground conduit connecting the garage to the house, but I'm not sure why that would fix it? If anything I would think that it would be un-grounded when it rains, or trip the breaker every time it rains?
Also, there are no outside outlets and the underground wiring is the old metal sheathing style that runs through a 1.5" dia pipe into the house. He has already tried pulling the wire through one end with a stringer but apparently it didn't work.


texts: How are rivnuts measured and what eyebolt fits?

texts:
At Amazon, I've seen RN14 1/4"-20 steel rivet nuts, RN516 5/16"-18 steel rivet nuts, RN1024 #10-24 steel rivet nuts, 1/4-20UNC, 3/8-16, M3, M5, etc.

I also saw the following image explaining the size of a 1/4" rivnut, but it doesn't make sense to me.

So my question is: how wide and how long is an 1/4"-20 rivnut and what drill bit do I need to make the hole so it fits correctly? And what size eyebolt would fit this rivnut?

I'm buying the rivnuts and the eyebolts online, so I would need to be sure of the sizes.

Thanks.


texts: How much weight can floor made of plywood over joists on concrete slab support?

texts:
I'm installing a 3' x 4' masonry heater that will weigh 1700 - 2000 lbs in a room that is a converted garage. The floor is plywood over 2x4 joists directly atop a concrete slab. How much weight can this type of floor support?
Thanks


texts: Safely fit new bathroom pull switch to existing wiring

texts:
We moved into a house that has a bathroom pull switch (surface mount box - is that a 'pattress'?) dangling from the ceiling by a couple of inches of wires. I think when we moved in it was flush with the ceiling and I can only assume it had been glued on (there are no existing holes in the plaster) - the glue only lasted a few weeks at most.

In addition to dangling, the switch itself only works intermittently, so I've bought a replacement switch from homebase and want to fit it.

So my question is this. How do I fit the box without drilling through the existing wires? I have somewhere on of those staple-gun shaped current/metal detectors, but it's always been a bit rubbish at the best of times and given the small diameter of the base plate I don't think it would be accurate enough to tell me where I can and cannot drill anyway.

Alternatively, would I be better off gluing it (e.g. 'no more nails')? Or will that just come off again after a few days or weeks?

Thanks!


texts: Anchors for concrete - what to use on a concrete ceiling?

texts:
When it comes to concrete, besides metal anchors like lag shield we have the plastic ones being: wall plug, plastic anchor and ribbed anchor. Is there any other (non-metal) anchor that can be used on concrete?
Plastic anchors are by far the most popular. You get them when buying stuff to hang on the wall.
However in my research it seems that wall plugs (below) are better rated (higher weight support).

Source: https://www.rolliers.com/blog/post/helpful-tip--choose-the-fastener-right-for-the-job
While wall plugs are not as or even more popular than plastic anchors if they are better rated? I've never received them in products purchased, it has always been plastic anchors.
Personally, it seems to me they would just slip (especially from the ceiling) as they seem to be smooth outside.
I have a project to hang a wood panel to the (concrete) ceiling. I was checking about non-metal anchors because metal anchors wouldn't allow multiple replacements of this panel and also usually requires big holes/damages. I know Tapcon would be the most recommended, but I wouldn't be able to reuse the hole when replacing the panel so it's a no for me. I found these three types listed above, and also read about one with/made of "lead" (if not mistaken).
So, I'm curious as to why one would use plastic anchors when ribbed anchors look to be better, and why use ribbed anchors when wall plugs are rated for heavier stuff.
Like everything, I know there are specific situations. However I could not find when one would not use a wall plug and instead go with a plastic (non-ribbed) anchor.
For hanging stuff on the ceiling, which non-metallic anchor would be the best?
I appreciate any insight on that!


texts:
We have two gumtrees over a largish deck - 10 x 4 m with 120mm Merbau. I had 80mm before it was redone. The gumnuts and sticks and leaves are a total pain! The trees are nice but all year they make a mess. Tannin is another issue requiring constant cleaning.
Been thinking of a sealing strip to keep out the crap so I can blow it off at least and not have to scrap out the gaps which are about 3mm wide. The gaps run away from the house.
Is this a good or bad idea?


texts: Three sets of lights, turned on together or separately

texts:
I have three different lightswitches in my kitchen, and they control three different sets of lights in the room. I would like to control each set separately with a switch for each one, but also be able to control all three together with a single switch.

This seems like it shouldn't be too complicated, but I just asked the electrician doing work here and he said it would be very complicated and expensive. Is there a simple and elegant way to do this? Is there a specific kind of switch for this? How much would you expect it to cost to have this done?


texts: Kenmore 96573230 Dryer Heating Element Too Hot? (420° F)

texts:
Is it normal for the heating element metal cover to reach 420°F?
http://i.imgur.com/tbi7HgR.png

I just replaced the upper thermal cut-off fuse and it blew within minutes. The cover location of the cut-off fuse doesn't reach 420°F... closer to 200°F.


texts:
I had an old thermostat with wiring as below image:

I wired Air Handler Trane (Model# TWE037E13FB2) in the attic just like it was before:

Here is a wiring diagram of Air Handler:

However, my Nest has few wires that I am not sure where to connect:

Does anyone know:

Whether I connected White wire properly, since it was a jumper wire before
What should I do with Blue, Brown and Orange wires?


texts: How can I meet the height requirements for a door in a basement with a low ceiling?

texts:
To meet code we need a minimum 6'6" clearance through all doors. The ceiling height in most of the basement is 6'8", but the clearance through the exterior door is much less than that.  On the inside of the door is a concrete step  - we could remove that, giving enough ceiling height up to the door threshold, but then the door opening would still not be high enough, and also the step up would be over 8".
One option we've been considering is to somehow raise the ceiling just around the door, then raise the door lintel. We'd need to raise it 4 - 5 inches. The ceiling is popcorn with a 2 x 10 joist above.
We don't want to lower the ground outside the door to create a well, as it's the only path from the front to the back of the house and it's narrow, so having a big well in it would be a real pain.

Any clever ideas? Anyone done this kind of 'raising the ceiling' framing or know of a link to pictures of someone doing it?


texts: How can I relocate this drain to accommodate the new shower pan

texts:
I removed a fiberglass shower/bath combo and I wish to replace it with a TileRedi shower pan. 42x60 right drain. the problem is, the spec drawing shows the center of the drain to be 6 inches away from the edge. My current p trap is 2.5 inches away from the wall.

Can anyone think of any way that i can make the piping fit the new drain location that'll be 6 inches away? The top of the p trap is about 5 inches below the floor where the pan will rest.

Thank you !!!

I wasn't able to solve the p-trap relocation, but this what I have so far.


texts: How to get rid of fleas in an apartment with carpeted floors?

texts:
Long story short...we came home after 5 days away with our 1.5 year old and noticed that the wherever the cat slept or lounged there was cat hair and little particles that looked like black pepper.

A quick internet search pointed to fleas. My wife bought a flea collar for the kitty (~$50 for a time release collar good for 8 months...that hurt the wallet) and a flea comb.

She proceeded to comb 40-50 fleas off of kitty. (Awhile ago I noticed spots on kitty's neck that were scabbed over. I should have guessed that it was probably from scratching.)

I also saw a flea on the carpet and then it sprang away.

My question is, what is the cheapest, safest and most efficient way to get rid of these suckers. Is there a permanent solution? I have a 1.5 year old so I'm concerned with using chemicals.


texts:
Consider a source duct from the furnace/AC. The ducts run in a vented crawlspace. The floors atop the crawlspace are a mix of hardwood and kitchen vinyl.

The symptoms are:

the longer run vents aren't blowing as hot as the short run vents. They've just been foil-taped to ensure no leakage.
the furnace runs longer to heat the house; the thermostat is in the room with the longest duct vents.

Does it make sense, or is it recommended to insulate these metal ducts? Currently considering these products:

Reflectix foil wrap - reflective bubble wrap. Claiming an R-value of 4. Unsure if this R-value is worth the time/cost!
fiberglass batt with foil backing

House is in a climate that sees -15 C through 35 C. That's 5 F through 95 F.

When should metal ducts in a crawlspace be insulated?
What products are best suited to insulate ducts?
What R-value insulation should be considered satisfactory?


texts:
I would like some suggestions on how to solve this issue. My end goal is to add a zone for my garden area. Below is my rough drawing. I'm trying to avoid having to dig from my current manifold box to the garden area. The second picture is what I'm looking to do.

The red zone which is zone 4, I'm wondering If I can turn that into a water mainline take that red zone all the way to Box 2 and remove the T for 4 sprinklers in zone 4. Currently, there is no Box 2 but I can add one there. Then attach the previous zone 4 sprinklers into the new manifold? could that work?

Or I could take Zone 4 into box2 and add an additional manifold. Then I would have to turn on zone 4 in order for other zones in box 2 work. Could I do that?

My Controller has room for 8 zones and I can run the additional wires to box2.


texts: What happens if I shave a little sliver off electrical wire with a utility knife?

texts:
I needed to replace an electrical wire with a longer one so I could move an electrical outlet.  When I went to cut away the outer rubber cover of one of the wires with a utility knife (yes, dumb, I know), I accidentally shaved off a wee little sliver of copper from the wire.  Everything works fine, but I am wondering if it's something serious that could affect the transfer of electricity or cause other problems.

It has since been installed, so I don't remember if it was the hot, neutral, or ground at this point.  Should I redo it with a different wire?  I can't cut off any more of the wire as I didn't allow myself that much slack.


texts:
Can a standard blue junction box be used for indoor wiring purpose?
Lets say I have one single gang box of 24 cu. in. which is placed as junction box to connect three 14/2 cables inside it. I know its within the box size. But does a junction box for this reason has to be specific one, I meant more deeper/wider ?
Edited: Added a picture to help other newbie.

Thanks.


texts: I'm trying to fix this wobbly knob. I removed the set screws you see in the video on both sides of the door, but I'm still not able to pull the knob off. It doesn't give even 1/32". Is there another mechanism by which this knob is held together?


texts: Could I conceivably use power from my neighbors (hypothetical) solar panels in the event of a blackout?

texts:
I know some people have solar panels and produce excess power that they then sell back to the grid. Since they generate some amount of power that they could sell back to the grid.
So hypothetically, if my neighbor and I were the last two loads on the power line, is it conceivable that If we were to experience a blackout, that I could get power off of my neighbors solar panels? (Additionally, if multiple houses kept their load under what was supplied off the solar panel, then could they all share the output?)
Edit: I realize a lot of answers have been posted, but for the original intent of this question I was curious about transferring power from my neighbors house to mine using only existing municipal wiring (eg: not bringing suicide cords or the like into the mix)