texts: Why does my thermostat show code 'PF' after running the fan or A/C?

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After running either just the central HVAC fan, or the central HVAC AC for just a few minutes, the Bryant thermostat (Model TSTATBBPB101, C Wire attached) screen momentarily shows "PF", and then goes blank (it normally shows the current and target temperatures).

1 minute later (if running just the fan), or 5 minutes later (if running the AC), the thermostat's screen comes back on, and everything looks good.

The fan (or AC) will then turn on, and work fine, until the above cycle repeats after just a few minutes.

I then installed a new LUX TX9600TSa thermostat, and the problem persists.  Without batteries, but with C wire connected, the thermostat will show "Low/Battery Low" after running the AC for 5 minutes, and then go blank.  With batteries installed, and the C wire still connected, the fan (or AC, if it is selected) will simply stop after a few minutes, even though the fan is still turned on (or in the case of the AC, the target temperature has not been reached).

1 minute later (if just running the fan), or 5 minutes later (if running the AC), everything will reset and look fine, but the problem persists: I can no longer get the HVAC fan or AC to run for more than a few minutes at a time.

Just to ensure it's not a clogged filter, I put a brand new MERV 16 filter into the HVAC system, but the results did not change.

What is likely the problem, and is this something I can fix myself?


texts: Make outlet controlled by switch, constant hot

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I have one outlet controlled by a switch.  I would like to make it constantly hot.  I also have a ceiling fan which is always hot and would like to have that controlled by the switch (later).  For now, I want to just focus on the outlet, being I screwed it up.

I read a few posts regarding the same situation and tried to follow the advice given, but I screwed it up.  For now, I disconnected the switch and outlet and put a wire nut on each end.

The first two pictures are the switch and the other the outlet.

Here’s the room with the additional hot outlets.
Thank you all for the help!


texts: Connecting neutrals in disconnect switch

texts:
Disconnects are an inexpensive way to connect two relatively large gauge conductors for 40-100A applications. However, most 240V disconnects only provide lugs for the two ungrounded conductors and the ground wires -- leaving no place to connect the neutral.

What's the best way to inexpensively bond the two neutrals when using 3-wire + ground cables? Large wire nuts are available, but I would prefer a lug-based connection, which seems more reliable at high currents. Polaris lugs are suitable but relatively costly. Does anyone have a more economical suggestion?


texts: 5hp 230v single phase motor popping 30amp breaker

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I have a 5hp 230 single phase Leeson motor on my bandsaw. I ran a 30' circuit from a 30amp breaker in the panel to a NEMA 14-30 plug using 10AWG wire. From there, I have a 10-foot 10AWG cord to the saw. The connections are two loads and a ground, no neutral. Every time I turn on the bandsaw, the breaker pops immediately. I checked that the saw turned freely.

I had previously connected a dryer cord to it, also 10 feet long and 10AWG. The connection was two loads and a neutral. The saw ran fine. However, there was no blade so only the bottom wheel had to be turned. The dealer, Laguna, specifies that it is 30 amp. Any ideas how I can fix it?

Update

When I turn on the breaker, I can hear a solenoid clicking. When I turn the start switch, the blade starts to move before the breaker trips.

Plate on the motor

The 30 amp breaker

Update 2

I went back to the 10-30 cord and my 30amp dryer circuit. The connections are load, load, neutral as far as I can tell looking in the main panel. It works fine. It did take a few seconds to come up to speed. I put the 14-30 cord back on. The connections are load, load, ground. It still has the same problem. I tried the neutral on the new cord and got the same result.

I even read the manual. The spec for the LT18 bandsaw, which I have, is for a 30amp breaker. It also specifies that it has a 4.5hp motor so it may be out of date as it was written in 2008.

I did one more test. I hot wired the plug directly to the breaker in the panel using 10AWG wire I had left over. I got the same result. Could it be the breaker itself? I had previously used it for a 15amp motor and a 20amp, one at a time.

More images

The tripped 30amp breaker is for the bandsaw.

The circuit box at the bandsaw.

The wiring diagram from the manual. The image says LT16 HD. The manual is for the entire range of their Italian bandsaws.

This is the breaker for my dryer. This is one on which the bandsaw works. The wire from it looks like 10AWG at most.


texts: Is it possible to use a milling machine *bit* in a drill press?

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Reverse of "Is it possible to use a drill press as a milling machine with the proper bit?".  I'd think it would, but I imagine a CNC mill might be taking off less "material per unit time" than a drill press.  Also, would the fluting be different for a CNC mill and drill press?

Edit: I found an answer at BladeForums - I'm posting it here just for reference.


texts: Can you use three 2x8 sandwiched with 1/2" plywood between to get a 16' header

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Header to supporting the roof and rafters.  It was a patio converted to a sun room and I would like to replace two large windows with a sliding door.  Currently 4x10x12 header with post in middle.  Want to remove post with three 2x8 DF with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between to get my 6" and span 16'.
I'm tight on space, that why I need to use 2x8.
Please advise if this will work?


texts:
I'm looking to replace some copper pipe with PEX. The online debate seems heated, although local plumbers I've talked to seem indifferent about the particulars, just praising PEX in general vs. copper.

Some of the online debate around cinch clamps involves anecdotes about them failing a small percentage of the time. For example, it was mentioned in this question. Given the low cost of cinch clamps and ease of application, would it be a good idea to double up on clamps on each fitting? Any reason this wouldn't be cheap insurance?


texts: Why (if at all) is finish paint necessary on interior wood surfaces?

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I have a couple of doors that stick in an old home. They stick even worse when occupants hang coat racks or mirrors over the door. The doors, like the home, are old and have plenty of character, i.e. wooden, imperfect appearance. Hinges seem good, and the sticking appears to be a combo of doors swelling and of frames being not-exactly-square due to settling, along with the tight fit being tighter in those sticky spots when something is hung over the door. So, I sanded a door down on its top edge (<1mm) using a rasp and sand paper, and it works. The sanded wood looks fresher and has a lighter tone than the rest of the wood door.

The usual next step, I understand, is to apply a thin coat of finishing paint on wood I sanded. Why, if at all, is this necessary? Since the doors are inside the house, protection from weathering doesn't seem like it would be an issue, and because the doors already have an aged woody look to them, these small sanded spots on the edges aren't an aesthetic problem. Is there any need for finishing paint on interior wood aside for aesthetics?


texts: Paver installation - excavation limitation

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I am trying to install a paver patio in my backyard but have run into some excavation issues.  Everything I have read says to dig deep enough to allow for 6" of base material under the paver surface (4" of base gravel and 2" of builder's sand).  The problem is, at 4" I uncovered the top of a 1-ft diameter PVC pipe running horizontally across the length of my backyard.  I live in a townhome, and the pipe appears to be a drain pipe that everyone's gutter downspouts feed into.  So there's definitely no chance of removing the pipe - it's there for good.

Because this is only at 4" deep, should I dig the rest of the area to the max depth needed, and just leave the section where the pipe runs at 4"?  Or should I dig everything to the same 4" depth?  Do I need to do something special to the pavers going on top of the area where the pipe runs?  Or do I actually add material and go up, raising the surrounding areas around the space I plan to put pavers on as well?  So many questions I can't seem to find any answer for through google.Any advice from experienced paver installers is greatly appreciated!


texts: What could cause a 3-bulb fixture to blink when turned off?

texts: Two new lightbulbs(energy efficient spiral) blink rapidly when I turn OFF the switch for the 3 bulb fixture in my kitchen. House built in 1912ish. My house but previously had tenants. They only had 1 bulb in, so probably occurred for them, too. I'm worried about turning it out now. Wiring internally, probably wasn't updated since 1940's , when house converted to duplex.


texts: What type Roof Vent is best to reduce ACU heat load?

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Currently have a split level with 600 sq ft each with 1 turbine and 1 louvred vent on low side and 2 louvred vents on high side.  ACU operates excessively. Look at intake, insulation, new ACU, ridge vent but feel attic air not moving out fast enough is the problem. This could be restricted intake or vent.

Installed approx R30 to R50 additional blown fibreglass insulation 4 yrs ago. Not much benefit in hot summer with AC on all day every day in hot summer rising above room temp.
(12~18" in addition to existing R30?)
noticed previous renovators blocked off soffits over garage , so I tore out alum. slit soffits and plywood and put in mosquito netting for soffit stapled in place over frame inserts.
Upgraded to New 5 ton ACU installed 2 years has improved home cooling but still can run excessive times, often all day but acceptable temp (25'C)
roof is getting old on solar side and getting it replaced soon and there are some minor rain leaks with ceiling very slight damage in 2 spots.

What I want to do is reduce the ceiling air temp from roof heat penetration so AC has less work to do.
Roofer is planning to use large square tall vents like Japanese pagoda but not curved. Looks OK, but HOW much better are they? if any.  Often the turbine is not moving in no wind days.
Should I invest in motor-driven turbine? or what do you suggest?
louvered vents

ridge vent

turbine

With 600 sqft of sun exposure I estimate 60kW of solar heat with R50 but it still seems like a thermal air flow problem.


texts:
I have a Mahogany door that costs me about $700/year to keep it stained and covered in urethane.  It is in direct sun and just takes a beating.

I don't want to put a storm door on it because the storm door will just raise the temperature even further.

I am tired of the time it takes; I am tired of the money it takes.  I just going to have it painted.

I had one painter casually recommend equipment paint but did not give me a specific brand (he was not going to do the work).

I had another painter recommend Sherwin-Williams Duration Gloss.

Should I investigate further on getting the door painted with equipment paint?


texts: No hot water when cold is turned on elsewhere

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My main problem is that when I am taking a shower, I lose all hot water when someone turns on cold elsewhere.  I have been led to believe this is because of an insufficient water supply to the water heater, leading to a loss of pressure on the input and thereby decreasing the pressure on the output.  I believe I could fix this by bringing in a 3/4" or 1" line first to the water heater via PEX manifold, and then do PEX home runs to all the fixtures in the house.

I have attached pictures below of my setup, and I welcome any input.

(Originally I had pretty much the entire flow backwards.  I have updated my images accordingly.)

I have a 1/2" line D that feeds both the boiler and the water heater E.  F comes out of the water heater and reduces to a 1/2" line to feed the house fixtures.

I used the installation instructions for the 9DM3 backflow preventer pictured, and the following is an installation diagram.  I have both the 9DM3 and the 1156F pictured between D and C, and I am confident this part of my home matches the installation instructions.


texts:
I bought London 3 light lamp and put 3 LED bulbs 6W.
and doesn't work. Only when I switch on then flashed for second but only 3 times. Normal lamp works without problem. There is 2 cables. 1 cable to one bulb  when connect only this cable lamp glow.
When connect only second cable that connect 2 bulbs. Don't work.
I was thinking tha lamp is faulty and bought another one but another lamp didn't work also.
When I connected lamp to wall outlet lamp work perfectly.
When I changed to normal bulbs lamp worked.
When I have 2 terminal LED bulbs and  3rd middle one normal - lamp works.
I need to add that lamp is connected to 2 way switch.
That's very strange problem, maybe someone know the answer.
Thanks Artur


texts: At a 6' span, how much can an SPF 2x4 turned on 3.5" end support?

texts: The ends are secured, so how much load can a 6' span of SPF 2x4 support when turned on 3.5"?


texts: One of the springs on my garage door has snapped. I'd like to replace it, but it seems like I'm going to have to get the door up before I can do so.  Of course, the door is extremely heavy with a broken spring, so that is tricky.  Do I just need to get a jack to get the door up, or is there another solution I'm not thinking of?


texts: Does the amount of air noise generated by a portable fan depend on blade design?

texts: Forgetting about motor noise, are all household fans such as window fans and table top fans equally noisey?  Is there a type of blade or grating that is quieter than others for the same amount of circulation?


texts: Does a rock face concrete block house need insulation?

texts: I’m considering buying a 2 1/2 story older Foursquare home built in 1926 located in northern Virginia. The house was built by a building contractor as his personal home. The house is in excellent condition. During the home tour I noticed the inside of the perimeter walls had no Sheetrock or insulation and only covered in wallpaper.  When I got up to the attic I could see concrete block had been covered with a thick coat of cement and then plaster. The roof is standing seam metal. No insulation in the rafters. The house has only exchanged owners a few times and most everything is original. Having no experience with rock faced concrete block homes I don’t know if insulation is necessary? I’m concerned I will be able to keep it heated or cooled.


texts: How can I repair a bed with adjustable head (manual) that is broken?

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I have bed with adjustable head broken. I don't know what I need to fix it, and how this part is called to buy it (I guess it  sold in Ebay?)
I have more one bed with that part that work great, So I photographed it, so it will be more understandable:


texts: What does this (electrical) value mean on my washing machine's back?

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The electrical parameters of my washing machine are printed on the back. Among them there is a value for amperage:

It says 10A but I don't know if that means that I need a fuse of minimum 10A or the washing machine drains a maximum of 10A and my fuse needs to be bigger (but not equal) than 10A to accommodate for that.

So what does 10A mean for a washing machine?


texts:
It's a bit off topic, but let's see...

I live in a condo, and the devices pictured below are found everywhere: in flats, in corridors, even in the car park (they are attached to ceilings) and I have no clue what they are. Would anyone know ?


texts:
I recently had a second 80 gallon propane tank installed so that I would have extended run time for my 9Kw whole house generator.

The second tank is connected to the first tank and to my generator, and the first tank has a line that runs into my home for a gas fireplace.

The first tank's gauge currently reads 70 gallons, but the second tank is sitting at around 10 gallons. I realize that propane is a liquid in the tank, but as a load is placed on the tank, the liquid turns into a gas and it's this gas at the top of the tank that exits the tank and is used by whatever is generating the load.

So my questions are:

Should I ever expect the tanks to equalize on their gauges? I expect the answer is no, as only the gas will readily transfer between the tanks.
Can I infer the overall quantity of propane left in both tanks by reading the gauge on just one tank? I ask this, because the new tank has a gauge compatible with automatic tank level reading devices, and I'd love to add this to my setup.


texts:
Any natural gas experts out there?

Any time I am away from home for two days or longer, my stove takes 30 seconds to light. After that it works fine day after day after day!

Another similar problem is with my high eff modulating / condensing boiler every year at first fire-up.  The boiler fails with error for no ignition once or twice, then lights but woofs for 30 to 40 seconds. Then it ignites normally every time all winter.

I cannot find any reason posted anywhere but I theorize that the NG in the line goes stale rather quickly (two days) leaving useless gas in the pipe.

ANY other suggestions?


texts: This is the fitting connecting the copper (yes, copper tubing is OK for gas lines where I am) gas line feeding our water heater to our water heater.  What size and type of fitting is it?


texts: Why does my garbage disposal have a 3 way switch?

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In my house I have what seems to be a plain two wire + ground flip switch for the garbage disposal. I need to replace the switch because we added backsplash tiling and want to better match the color.  I removed the switch and found that it had 3 black wires going to it plus a ground wire. Isn't this a 3 way switch? This is a hardwired garbage disposal. This switch is NOT part of a box with a plug as well, although there is a GFCI plug about a foot down the wall from it.

The garbage disposal is on the same breaker box circuit as the dishwasher, but the dishwasher has its own disposal in it and I've never heard it turn on the sink disposal. So why would a 3 way switch be needed?

Update: Sideways photo of switch above. (Just turn your head ;-). I noticed that the front of the switch has on/off written on the switch, which would be strange for a 3 way switch to have. So now I'm even more confused.


texts: Unblock a drain after using too much baking soda

texts: I had a smelly drain in my bathroom after moving into a new house. I tried baking soda and vinegar but the smell remained. I decided to poor the rest of the box of baking soda down the drain and let it sit for a while. I followed it by warm vinegar and hot water...and now I have a blocked drain which I never had to begin with! Please help! How do I unblock it?


texts: My roof already had the ridge and soffit vents and gable vents. Does it need attic fans/rotary turbines as well? I heard that I should close off the gable vents to let the ridge and soffits do their job.


texts: Can I split a shared neutral between two GFCI breakers?

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I have two 15A circuits that share a neutral.  Currently, they go to two normal breakers, and I'd like to replace two those breakers (side-by-side in the breaker box) with plug-on neutral GFCI breakers.
I tried to install the GFCI breakers with the neutral attached to the neutral bus, but they stayed tripped.  I was able to install one GFCI with the hot and neutral going into the load, and the remaining hot left unconnected.  So, I'm wondering, should I split the neutral and attach it to each GFCI breaker's neutral load terminal?
I have breaker ties that I know I'm supposed to install.


texts: How to finish retaining wall for a paver patio on a sloping ground?

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Hi All: I am building a paver patio in my backyard (primarily so that kids can use it for playing). I need some advise on the best way to do it. The size of the patio would be large: 26ft by 18ft. My backyard has slope in both the directions as shown in the figure.

I already built a retaining wall on the right edge and on the far end of the backyard for uniformity. The wall is not too high - about one feet above ground at the far right corner which is the lowest point. I used the cement blocks as shown in the figure for the retaining wall. I put one step in the retaining wall at about the middle of the right edge so that the patio can be built sloping downwards away from the house (for drainage). The blocks of the retaining wall at any one level are all at the same horizontal level. Now the issue is I want the patio to be flush with no step in it as I feel the patio will look better if there is no step and I believe it is safer to walk. What is the best way to build the rest of my patio (if it even makes sense)?

One way that I could think of is to add 2 inch thick blocks on top of the retaining wall to cap the wall in such a way that the blocks follow a gentle slope all along the 26ft of the wall while hiding the step. And use mortar to fill the gap between the wall and the cap as shown in the figure. The 2 inch paver stones that I would be using will be held in place by the cap all around.  Now I am not sure if it is a good idea. I don't have much experience using mortar/concrete mix. Is there a better way? If using mortar works fine, any tips on doing it properly. Also, what kind of mortar/concrete mix is the best choice for the work? Any advise is greatly appreciated.


texts: Hard wiring condensate pump with ground to furnace with only hot / neutral

texts: My 1996 oil burning air handler has a hard wired condensate pump for AC that recently died. Newer condensate pumps all seem to plug into the wall via a three prong plug. I do not have an outlet near the furnace (the house is all armored cable), so planed to strip the power cord from the new condensate pump and hard wire it to the furnace as was done with the existing pump. HOWEVER, when I opened up the junction box inside the furnace, there is only a hot and neutral connection (again goes to armored cable to the furnace motor).  Can I connect hot to hot and connect neutral + ground to neutral to complete the circuit? Is there any other process to attach the ground wire from the new pump? It's hard to see but the green wire running to the motor is attached to a screw in the back of the box. Can I attach the ground under the screw too? Thanks!!


texts: How urgently should this joist be looked at by a pro?

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I recently purchased a fixer upper built in the 1930s in MA. The basement ceiling had lathe and plaster I removed so I can shove some insulation in. The removal has revealed a few joists in bad shape, and that they are notched. Apart from the three concerning joists, all the other ones are in pristine condition and all the bridges are intact.
The three joists are each concerning in different ways.
Joist #1 has been bored perpendicularly to fit a toilet (that I've removed). There's abviously some water staining there as well which will no longer be an issue. I think what I need here is to sister the joist locally:

joist #2 has a hairline split all the way through, but only on one side. The end of it is attached to a beam in a really funny way. I'm on the fence on whether this needs sistering or not, thoughts?:

Finally, joist #3, the one I'm most concerned about is cracked in two spots. One of the spots is cracked where there's a big knot. I'm pretty sure it shouldn't have been used in the first place because of the size of the knot. I think I need a pro to come and sister it the entire length:
the first crack where the knot is:

The second crack further down:

So my question is, what kind of professional should I look to hire -- I know I need a carpenter, but do I need a structural engineer to come and look at it, or should I look for a carpenter that specializes in framing, or is this rather run-of-the-mill and any experienced carpenter will be able to do the job well?
Thanks! -Matt


texts:
The mirror in the bathroom is held by two hooks, that are screwed into the wall through wall-plugs. One of the hooks has become loose, and can easily turn around, and is thus not holding the mirror anymore. (So the wall-plug is not spinning in the wall, it is the screw itself which does.)

If I tighten the screw more, then it becomes fixed, but then the hook is too near to the mirror and cannot be hanged anymore. The other hook is very solid, even at the right distance.

I have already tried gluing the screw to the wall-plug with Loctite, but it still keeps moving.

I have already seen this related question, but I do not think it is relevant for two reasons:

If I want, I can tighten the screw, but then (as said above), it is too near to the wall.
If at all possible, I would like to avoid drilling another hole, I would rather try some other solution to glue the screw to the wall-plug.


texts: How can I seal this dryrot spot to prevent it from getting worse?

texts:
Our bathroom shower door leaks onto the outside floor and over time, this has caused a dry rot patch on the floor.  It's not necessarily severe but there's some mild "give" and I want to prevent it from getting worse.

The flooring material is standard thick plywood (tongue and groove - I don't recall the specific thickness definitely more than an inch though).

I know the long-term solution is to replace the floor but unfortunately I don't have the funds for an aggressive remodel like that (although we're planning to do that eventually - maybe in the next 2-3 years).

In the meantime, is there anything I can do to try to patch/seal the dry rot patch and make it waterproof?

Here are some pictures:


texts: My house breaker box have only breakers which seat only 1 wire. No seat for a load neutral. Can I still install a GFCI Breaker?

texts:
My house breaker box have only breakers which seat only 1 wire.  No seat for a load neutral. Literally one screw on the breaker. There are neutrals on the bar and everything works no problem.  I want to protect my circuits with GFCI breakers but they have 2 seats, 1 for the load hot and one for the load neutral, but my box has no load neutrals going into the breakers.  Can someone tell me if I can just plug the hot into a GFCI breaker and plug the pig-tail into the bar, and leave the neutral seat on the GFCI breaker empty?  And if so, will I still get GFCI protection in this way?

Lastly, why were boxes/homes wired this way?  What are the advantages and disadvantages to this type of box? (where every breaker has just a seat for hot and there's no neutrals running around and the only neutrals seem to go directly into the bar?)


texts: Weird smell from electrical disconnect box when appliance is on

texts:
I have a 240v, 48amp (60 amp breaker, 6 awg NM-B wire) car charger outside that has a disconnect inline and last night I noticed a really weird smell in the room the wires to out to the charger from. I tracked it down using my nose to the disconnect box (or the wires leading to/from it) and at this point it was pulling 48 amps because the car was charging. I inspected the area and didn't notice any melting but since it was raining I didn't want to open the box outside to look in. I lowered the amps to 32 via the car and the smell appeared to dissipate and this morning the smell was gone. I also noticed a small humming sound from the disconnect outside at the same time.

It's a cheap disconnected:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD27E%7C27-8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT._DEVICES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034238981%7c58700003943782709%7c92700031956831784&gclid=Cj0KCQiA28nfBRCDARIsANc5BFA1htTEn9RLX9o9ot_7y6wyo4sEOySek6WKOL1FbEizxiqgrYyPfHgaAqE_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

But it's rated to 60 amps. Maybe something is lose, what would cause a smell/buzz? What should I check first?


texts:
I live in Georgia (around the Atlanta area) and recently discovered mold in the crawl space of my home (I plan to have the mold professionally removed). My crawl space is about 30' by 15' (4' to 15' in height) in size and is vented. The ceiling of the crawl space has fiberglass batts that are starting to fall from moisture and rodents. The mold is forming on the wood where the batts are installed.

The crawl space has no duct work or machinery in it. It is a open space with a couple of wires, an AC condensation line, and the water main pipe running through it. I have not noticed any significant wanter build up inside, so I don't think a drain system is needed.

I was thinking of encapsulating (floor and walls) the space myself using 10 mil plastic sheeting, foam board, and calk.

My questions are, is encapsulation over kill? Is encapsulating recommended in high humidity areas? Do I need to reinsulate the ceiling if I encapsulate? Do I need a permeant dehumidifier in the space if i encapsulate, or would a temporary dehumidifer be ok just to dry the area after encapsulation?


texts: How to troubleshoot outdoor lamp/electric functionality?

texts:
Our backyard lamp and electric outlet stopped working and I am trying to figure out what else I can try to get this working again. I've already tried toggling the switches on the electric panel. I am not sure if it is safe and appropriate to swap out the fuses (see picture). Any advice, tips, or suggestions would be appreciated.

Electric Outlet

The electric outlet used to work and somehow just stopped. I am interested to know what things I can try to bring this back online. I am used to working with low voltage at work for data and I'd like to know what I can safely evaluate.

Lamp

Our lamp in the backyard used to work just fine. One day without warning it just seems to have stopped (the outlet socket is not producing electricity and the lights no longer come on).

Electric Panel

The panel seems to indicate that the electric lamp is controlled from this location. I've tried toggling the switches without getting the power back on to the outdoor lamp.

Fuse Box

Our house has one or more fuse boxes like this one. If I need to change a fuse, how would I do so safely?

Update 02/08/18

I am continuing to research this issue based on the very helpful comments and will go out today in search of the proper tools to test for connectivity (I welcome any recommendations).

Lamp Switch

On the opposite side of the electric outlet, the lamp has two switches. One feels a bit mushy when pressed and the other clicks firmly. Toggling has no visible effect on the situation.


texts: How to strengthen cracking joint compound after application over insulating foam sealant

texts:
Long story short, the wife is pregnant and wants the cats litter box  'outside.' My solution: put a 1'x1' hole in the wall ~10" deep between our living room and patio. Place a pet door over the interior hole. The inside of the wall needed to be enclosed so I put a frame inside the wall using 2x6. I sprayed that expanding insulation foam called Great Stuff all over inside. Let it dry, cut it to the shape of the hole. Sanded and applied joint compound. After it dried the insulation is of course soft so now the joint compound is cracking. I didn't use mesh tape. Since its in the wall it doesn't need to be pretty but it needs to be sturdy and uniform so the cat isn't digging out pits of wall. Is there something I can just lay over the cracking joint compound? Concrete patch ( or would I run into the same problem) or more mud?

I would like to avoid having to rip out the foam and mud I've already spent two days applying.

This has to be the dumbest thing I've ever done, please help!


texts: What is up with this wall, and what is the right way to hang something on it?

texts:
I just moved in to a new apartment, in a very old house. The landlord mentioned that it is over 100 years old. The walls are plaster, which means (to the best of my knowledge) that there is lath beneath the plaster.

On most of the walls, I've been able to hang things without much trouble. My stud finder has a little trouble on lath, but I've been able to get by, mostly because I'm not hanging lots of heavy stuff.

However, I've run into a problem on one wall. It is an exterior wall. My stud finder fails completely here. The picture I'm hanging is heavy, but not terribly heavy, so in the absence of a stud location, I figured I would be fine if I could get a relatively deep nail in or some sort of anchor and screw.

However, when I drove a nail in, it hits something very hard, and the nail will not go any deeper. It gets less than an inch into the wall, probably closer to 0.5". The plaster is very crumbly, and I don't trust the plaster to hold the picture I want to hang with such shallow penetration.

What can I do? What am I hitting behind this wall, and what is the right way to hang something here?


texts: What methods can I use to remove exterior paint from brick?

texts:
I just purchased a historical house that was painted an ugly peach color. I bought some marine grade paint stripper that I was going to use little by little to strip the whole exterior by hand.  This doesn't seem time or cost effective.  I want to know what options are available to me to remove this paint without damaging the brick and mortar. Whether it be something I do, or a service.

I found this How can I remove paint from an indoor brick wall?, which mentions sand blasting and dry ice blasting. Is there anything else I can/should consider?


texts: Extending longevity of ceramic water filters

texts:
With washable ceramic water filters, should they be washed regularly to improve longevity? Like this type:

My thinking is that if they're not washed, contaminants could get pushed deep into the core of the filter, making them harder to remove. Is my thinking correct?


texts: Temporary removal of one load bearing stud

texts: I want to temporarily remove a wall stud on a load bearing wall in order to access the floor below it. Do I need to provide a temporary support for that one stud? The time period could be a month or two that the attic above would be missing that support.


texts: Protect electrical cords from damage in storage

texts:
I'm essentially asking about power cords on electrical tools.

I know how to store higher gauge wires (e.g. USB) to prevent damage and sometimes something like a vacuum cleaner will have hooks to wrap the cord around and then a holder built into the plug that will clip onto the cord.

But when it comes to power tools with lower gauge - how can one store them in a way to prevent damage? What damage should I try to prevent? I'm leaving this pretty open ended for the sake of the site, but mostly sometimes my plug prongs get bent during storage. How can I prevent this type of damage from occurring if I'm storing these things in bins?

Damage such as -

source

source


texts: How can I stop my washing machine drain from overflowing?

texts: When my washing machine drains it sometimes comes up and out of the open pvc pipe in the service closet where the water heater would drain. I've found lots of posts where people speak of the washer standpipe overflowing, but can't find any info on what would cause my problem. When the washer drains I have to stand at the service closet (next to each other in the garage) and watch/listen. First I can hear gurgling, then hear the water coming up the pipe (similar to the sound of filling a glass of water), then I can see the water just before it emerges and floods my service closet and garage.  If I turn the washer off and on as it drains this doesn't happen...but not really feasible for the long run.  Any ideas?


texts: Found sunflower seed shells in fiberglass insulation and wired set up in basement

texts:
I found some sunflower seed shells inside of the fiberglass insulation in my basement storage wall. And, also there install a little wood stuff (refer the pic-2) in front of fiberglass insulation where I found the shells on the wall.

It doesn't look like the rats did as the fiberglass insulation is on 2 feet high wall.

Please let me know if you have some idea about why there has the shells and what's that wood stuff. Thanks.


texts: Prep for painting an old, interior, coquina rock fireplace wall?

texts: I have an INTERIOR coquina rock fireplace wall that I hate, hate, hate. Background information: Coquina rock is a very porous rock made of lots of little seashells compressed together and is found in Florida.  It is extremely porous (think lava rock). I've decided to try to paint it and expect to use a several coats of bonding primer before I paint.  The "mortar" or concrete, or whatever the buffoons (who thought this would be really cool back in the eighties) used to construct this is often non-existant on the face of the rock wall.  It appears as if they wanted it to look like the rocks were free stacked as no mortar is present over much of the wall and this leaves really deep holes between the rocks in most places.  None of the rocks are loose.  It is just a really ugly brown rock wall and the surface is alarmingly uneven with some rocks jutting out maybe 4" farther than others. So now my question/s: What to do about the cracks?  Most cracks and holes are too large to caulk; some are too small. Would you attempt to mortar all of the cracks before painting? What kind of mortar? Since all of the cracks are irregular, normal tuck and point is just silly, isn't it?


texts: How so I fix a loose Kwikset deadbolt faceplate?

texts: We have a kwikset deadbolt on our main door and the faceplate has come loose.  There are no visible screws on either side of the door, so I am assuming they are under the brass plate on the inside of the door.  I can't seem to get the plate off though.  There is a little rectangle on the bottom of the plate, but it doesn't seem to help pop off the plate.  The locking handle seems too close for the plate to be allowed to moved enough to reach screws anyway.  Does anyone know how to get the plate off?


texts: 10' PVC Schedule 40 vs ABS sun sail support post. Life expectancy, wind and UV damage

texts:
I'm setting some 6' T-posts deeper then usual ( down to like 4') for a simple fence project and i have a few spots where i want set up sun sail triangle from 10' high to 8' in about a 15' x 15' area.

I was thinking of just finding 3 regular  1 1/2 or 2" x 10' (depending on fit) Schedule 40 PCV pipes.. painting them for aesthetics and possible UV protection and then slipping them over the T-Posts and putting in some pins or screws to keep them in place and possible pushing them a foot into the ground as well.

The site is in Central Florida.

How much of benefit for the extra cost of ABS vs PVC if i plan to paint them?  Any particular paint going to work best ? last longer?

Would 6' of pipe with no support bend too much with the wind?  sched 40 is pretty rigid. The T-post are in really strong.


texts: Metal screw stuck in middle of deep plastic (resin) hole

texts:
I was trying to tie something that has a deep hole (around 7 cm). I tried one screw that has stuck in the middle of the hole. I thought that the screw will come to the end but it didn't as its head is wider than the hole diameter. Now the screw's head is stuck in the middle of the hole while its tip is out of the other side of the hole. I can't get it out or push it further to the other side of the hole. This hole is a simple cylinder.

Any ideas how can I solve this situation? This thing I'm trying to hang on the wall is so important to me.


texts: Like the Example of the “Water Supply”, Electricity flows to the house, being supplied through conduits to the service panel and then onto smaller conduit wiring for individual outlets and appliances. This “Feed” of elec. current is under pressure (or a FORCE). Is it true or false?


texts: How to install a safety barrier-post in garage, between house and vehicle

texts:
On the other side of the wall, in front of where my vehicle is parked, is my bedroom.

Would like to install something similar to what you would see at store fronts that have parking spaces near the entrance.

Usually looks like 4' high, round pole, that goes into the concrete, something like this.

Is this something that can be done by someone who has never done this but is handy?

...or what profession would do this work?


texts:
My dryer's vent tube is stuffed behind the dryer and preventing it from sitting closer to flush against the wall. I found this "Periscope" dryer vent kit and was wondering if anyone had experience with these?
Do they work well?  Is performance an issue at all?


texts: What's this hammer drill accessory and what does it do?

texts:
Can anyone tell me how is the accessory in the picture called and what's its purpose?

http://storage9.static.itmages.com/i/17/0228/h_1488307031_8180005_c15fb41395.png

Thanks


texts: Do these 60s kitchen drawers have narrower boxes than the faces?

texts:
Many modern kitchen drawers will have drawer faces that are slightly larger than the drawer boxes so that the faces appear flush with each other, while the drawer boxes are narrow enough for a divider all in between them, to which they are often attached with slides.

I have seen a lot of pictures of older kitchen drawers with visible dividers between the drawers. Here are some examples:

I am trying to figure out if these drawers also have narrower boxes than faces, which would make them quite narrow indeed, or are the boxes the same size as the faces? Are these things on sliders, or are these just boxes in boxes?


texts: How do I prepare the trim and casing around a new door for paint?

texts:
I just installed a new exterior door.  I put the original, painted interior-side casing back on, but to make it line up properly I put some new, unpainted 1/4" trim strips (not sure what they're called exactly) between the door frame and the casing.

I need to repaint it all, but how do I prepare it?  There are seams between the strips that I'd like to hide, and some small (less than 1/4") gaps in places between the casing and the door frame.

Do I caulk the gaps?  Spackle them?  What about the seams where two pieces meet?


texts: Can electrical in a pergola be ran to pool lights breaker to run ceiling fan and outlet?

texts:
We recently had an aluminum pergola installed with an electrical outlet and would like to install a ceiling fan.
The electrical in the pergola, which is not GFCI, was ran to the pool lights breaker in our pool panel that is GFCI. Both pool and pergola were professionally installed and city inspected & approved.
While getting quotes for the ceiling fan install, I was told that you cannot run electrical for a fan or the outlet to the pool breaker because it’s against electric code.
Can you please advise if this is true?
(It’s ran to the pool lights breaker, not pool pump breaker).


texts: Do doors with overlapping swings violate building regulations in the UK?

texts:
I am buying a new build property in Salisbury, UK and the cloakroom door swing overlaps the kitchen door swing, so if someone is coming out of the cloakroom at the same time as someone coming out of the kitchen they will bang against each other and could cause damage and injury.

Surely this is against building regs?


texts:
My sink set up gets blocked all the time when putting food through the garbage disposal. I took it apart and noticed the "Tee" had a very small hole for garbage disposal waste to pass through causing the problem so I removed this thin piece of plastic and now water backs up into the second sink when I flip on the garbage disposal. Water even shoots up through the garbage disposal side of the sink.

What good is a garbage disposal if you can't put vegetables, egg shells, and other food scraps through it.

Attached is a picture of my current set up and I don't think its right.


texts: Leviton Wallplate does not fit standard electrical box

texts:
I pre-wired my house for a lot of low-voltage applications. I installed new-construction green plastic boxes of the appropriate sizes (e.g. 1-gang, 2-gang, etc.); at the time, I wasn't ready to finish, so I placed cheap blank wallplates over them - which fit perfectly.

Fast-forward, and I'm ready to complete the wiring. I bought a bunch of Leviton-brand wallplates with the "Decora" rectangular cutout, and several appropriate snap-ins for the cutouts. These Leviton things are sold everywhere - as far as I knew, they were a standard item.

Here's the problem: the spacing between the mounting holes on the green plastic low-voltage boxes is 3.25". The spacing between the screw holes on the Leviton plates are 3.75". Has anyone else run into this problem? Do I have to tear out the plastic boxes that are nailed into the studs and replace them with some special retrofit box? How do I make this work?


texts: how to test to see if a humidistat temperature sensor is working

texts: I have an April Air 600 humidistat with an outside temperature sensor. What is the procedure to test a temperature sensor to see if it is working.


texts: Is the operation of a hard-start domestic water pump improved by the addition of an external soft-start controller?

texts:
I have a ½ HP 115V/230V 1PH 60Hz water pump (inside my house) that starts and stops hard.  It is connected to a simple on/off pressure switch.  The noise at startup is jarring.  The quarter-turn ball valve shutoff between the supply and the pump has now sprung a leak twice (first on the output side, now on the input side) which leads me to believe there is at least some water hammer effect in play when the pump cuts out (there is now a tiny jet of water for 1-2 seconds from the input-side leak when the pump cuts out, otherwise a steady drip).  The water supply coming in to the whole system is probably at around 5 PSI from a shallow well via several hundred feet of 1½" ABS pipe.
Here's an attempt at a visual representation of the configuration:
  shallow dug well
         ↓
  200-300' 1½" ABS
         ↓
  ball-valve shut-off
         ↓
    check valve
         ↓
  ½ HP water pump
         ↓
  /---------------------------------\
  ↓                  ↓              ↓
20 G pressure tank   ↓              ↓
                     ↓              ↓
         1" cold water manifold     ↓
                                    ↓
                       1½" outdoor supply line
                                    ↓
                           ball-valve shutoff
                                    ↓
                           frost-free spigots

Are these problems that would be alleviated by a soft start water pump?  If so, can the current pump be adapted to a soft start system or is a pump that is natively soft start required?


texts:
I’d like to build an outdoor cooking area and use wood as fuel.  This area would be an elevated platform, 2-2.5 feet off the ground and about 6 square feet in surface area, to use with a grate and/or cast iron cookware.  I planned to line the combustion area with fire brick.

This area will be exposed to the weather (e.g. sun, rain, snow, ice, freezing temps(0F/-18C)).  I would like to use this in all seasons.  I'm worried about moisture and heating wet/frozen bricks along with the freeze thaw cycle.

The fire brick I see in my area stores are geared toward fireplaces and wood stoves.

How well does fire brick stand up to the elements?
Will it last for more than a year or two?
Is there an alternate?


texts: Is an extra 1 W that significant with LED bulbs?

texts:
I recently replaced a ceiling light fixture with a ceiling fan with two light sockets that have a maximum rating of 9 W for LED bulbs.  The bulbs in the original fixture are 10 W LED and dimmable.  The bulbs that came with the fan are non-dimmable.  Can I use the 10 W bulbs in the 9 W max socket?  My understanding is that heat is the main reason for the wattage rating, but does 1 W make that much of a difference?  That’s barely 0.01 A if I’ve done my math correctly.
Both bulbs are 60 W replacement bulbs.  The 10 W is a Satco S9703. The 9 W is an Ecosmart (I think it’s this).  Fan is a Hampton Bay Rothley II 52050


texts: Using portable generator with transfer switch

texts:
See related question here: Determining generator loads
I live on a property with 600 AMP service (2x200AMP service to home, 1x200AMP service to workshop / barn).   The home and barn are new construction, and due to the rural location, standby generator transfer switch for the property was provisioned (Without the generator being purchased).
I don't currently have the funding for the standby generator, and was hoping to configure my portable generator to use the existing transfer switch equipment in the mean time.  The portable generator that I have is a 9000 watt unit equipped with a NEMA 14-50 receptacle.
Is there a way I can use this existing transfer switch along with a NEMA 14-50 plug and cord to power my home during power outages?


texts: What type of paint should I use on my hardwood floor?

texts:
Latex, enamel, oil-based, water-based, waterborne, oil-enhanced, alkyds, acrylics, acrylic-alkyds... my head is about to explode!!

We need to paint our upstairs bedroom floors while we are currently living/sleeping downstairs in the living room.

They're old Douglas-fir floors and are a great candidate for painting as they're not special at all, will need a few floorboards replaced that will be near impossible to grain/color match with the old/aged ones.  There's already a thick coat of enamel paint on them and the grain will be visible even with the paint as wear and tear on them has revealed the texture of the grain which I think is cool.

We would like to not have to sleep in the backyard for a week so I'm hoping to avoid an oil-based enamel (is that the same thing as an alkyd paint?).

Oh and we would like it to look good! Brush marks are not desired as they would hide the grain texture that I want to preserve.

I've come across a new product from a reputable manufacturer that is an interior water based acrylic-alkyd. They say it is the best of both latex and alkyd paints. Will this be a good option for a floor? Should we top coat it with a polyurethane? We want the floors to be glossy. If we top coat it with poly (water based), should the paint be flat/satin and the poly be glossy? What kind of brush/roller is recommended?

Thanks!


texts:
I am connecting my 2 1/2" service conduit to bottom of my Meter/Panel combo with a terminal adapter and connecting to my RV panel from the side knockouts. Regardless of what kind of conduit I use, do I need to use a Sealing Locknut on the terminal adapters going into panels, since it's outside mounted on a post? All the fitting / conduit will be coming out the bottom part of the panels (back or sides)
Dean


texts:
Recently, I headed down into our basement, the first time I've been down there in weeks to be honest, and I noticed that there initially seemed to be a leak coming from the Pittsburgh potty in the corner.
 (click to enlarge)
However, when I went over there to check, I noticed that the lid of the commode was damp, so my thoughts went to the pipes above.
 (click to enlarge)
The oxidation on the pipe doesn't thrill me, but when I ran hot and cold water through, I didn't notice any leaking or condensation.
Furthering the mystery, when wiping it up, it smelled, well, vinegary. More white vinegar than cider vinegar if that helps. That baffles me, as I can't think of a good source for that sort of a smell. I've checked with my wife, and we haven't been dumping a bunch of vinegar, or trying to use the baking soda and vinegar method of cleaning pipes. I'm going to check on it again later tonight, and tomorrow morning, to see if there's additional moisture, but the whole thing is rather baffling.
One possibility is that right above it upstairs is a cabinet, which does include a bottle of vinegar at the bottom, but I did not see or smell any vinegar residue in there.


texts:
You know how on the drill bits it can says : 5/32 for example?

What's the right drill bit for this screw: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.8x1-12-flat-socket-brass-wood-screw.1000140305.html?

Thnaks


texts: Dryer connection changes from 10-3 with ground to 10-3 without ground

texts:
The previous homeowner did some electrical work to upgrade the dryer outlet to a 4-prong receptacle along with new 10-3 wiring. It was all brand new and looked copacetic.

I'm thinking of moving the dryer receptacle, so I traced the wire from the outlet back to the panel. I noticed a J-box along the way where the new cable converts from a 10-3, with ground, to a 10-3, without ground (Without ground must have been the original house wiring). The ground of the new cable was tied to the grounding post of the metal J-box, but nothing was grounding the box. The two hots and neutral are just tied and capped, but nothing is tied to the ground wire going to the dryer.

Essentially it is completely ignoring the ground. Should I bond the neutrals to the grounding wire? Should I continue to ignore the ground?

I know what you are all going to say... I should run a brand new 10-3 all the way back to the panel... but that stuff is EXPENSIVE.


texts: Leaky shut off valve to toilet need to know what kind of sealant to use can't turn off Main water

texts:
I can't afford a plumber at this time and the valve is leaking so badly it floods the bathroom. And somehow the main shut off is not working either. My house has been vandalized which is why I believe this is problem.

I really need some kind of help can somebody answer me please thank you


texts: How can I fill a small hole in fiber cement siding?

texts: I've found a couple small holes in my home's fiber cement siding. What's the best way to fill them?


texts: How should I fix this hole at the top of my sink?

texts: See the image below. I imagine this is where a built-in soap dispenser or water filter would go. Until recently, the metal piece next to it covered the hole. But rust got the best of it. I just want to cover the hole again, ideally as flush to the surface of the sink as possible.


texts: Central air conditioner electrical disconnect amperage

texts:
My HVAC guy is telling me I need a 25 amp breaker and a 25 amp disconnect for my soon-to-be-installed central air compressor.  I've asked him for more details but he's less than forthcoming.

My assumption is that I will install:

 - a double pole 30 amp breaker on my breaker box (30 amp because they don't sell 25 amp breakers at my local big box store)

 - I'll run 10/2 NM from said breaker to a junction box on the interior of my house near the exit point.  In that junction box, I'll splice to a weatherproof conduit and run out to the disconnect box.

 - The disconnect box will be a 60 amp disconnect (because, again, that's all they sell at the big box) but I'll get a fused version and put 25 amp fuses in there.

Hopefully the HVAC guys will take it from there.  Am I way off?  Is a 30 amp breaker too much for the 25 amp requirement that my HVAC guy spec'd?


texts: How can I change light bulbs in a fixture located 20ft above the ground?

texts:
We made the unfortunate decision of having a ceiling fan with lights in our two story family room, so the ceiling fan is about 20 feet above our heads.  At the moment, all four light bulbs in the unit have burnt out and need replacing.

Safety wise, I think it's too high for even a long ladder.

What are some options for reaching and changing those light bulbs?


texts: Alternatives to springs for recessed can light trims?

texts:
Does anyone know of a good alternative to the specialized springs normally used to secure the trim of a recessed light to the fixture? They look like this:

I am installing about 40 trims and for whatever reason we are missing most of the springs. It is possible to buy replacements in small quantities, but they end up being over $1 (US) per spring which seems ridiculous and does add up.

Photos of how the springs attach to the trim:

and from the trim to the inside of the lighting fixture ("can"):

I'm thinking along the lines of some kind of material such as: rubber bands , stretchy string, common springs, quick ties etc. which would serve as a long-lasting substitute.

(Aside from sufficient strength the key feature of these springs is that they allow the trim to be installed without visible fasteners. So I'm not looking for a "band aid" solution using screws, tape, etc.)

Thanks!


texts: What material is window insulation film?

texts:
That clear, heat shrink plastic film they use to insulate windows... Does anyone know exactly what type of plastic it is? Can't find anything searching.

I have a project I think it might be good for that requires gluing it and I'd like to know what it's made of to use the most appropriate adhesive. If anyone has done this, recommendations on adhesive will also be appreciated it.


texts: Asbestos in my furnace closet - should I get rid of it?

texts: I have a home built in 1958 with a closet inside the house that contains the furnace. When the house was constructed this closet was lined with asbestos as a safety measure. How dangerous is it for my family members if this closet door remains closed? Should I make a priority of removing the asbestos and/or migrating the furnace out of the house altogether?


texts: How to restore/replace an old wood window without losing daylight opening

texts:
I have an old house with many double-hung wood windows in various states of repair, many with sashes that are painted shut or sash cords that are painted over and stuck to the pulleys. It would be great to make these operational again. Some windows are old cool-looking glass, but most are newer uninteresting glass.

I considered just removing the sashes and replacing it with a block frame double hung replacement window and have already done this successfully with one of them. Unfortunately, a typical double hung vinyl window is a bit over 3" from rough opening to daylight (example from Milgard), which is a loss compared to the 1.5" on the old wood sash.

There are some contractors in the area (Seattle) doing wood window restoration, but the waitlists are months to years long and the pricing ends up being around $1000 a window, which is drastically higher than vinyl replacement windows.

What are my options? Is there anything I'm missing? Is it a feasible DIY project to do the sash restoration myself? Thanks!


texts: My roommate accidentally(?) left the stove on. Should I be concerned?

texts:
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but it's somewhat of a safety question, so here goes...

I came home from work the other day and saw there was a pot on the stove. Thinking one of my roommates got home before me, I thought nothing of it. After a while though, I realized that I was the only one home. After taking a closer look, I saw that the pot was completely empty, sitting on a gas burner adjusted to the low setting. I shut it off, put the pot in the sink (which sizzled when I doused it with water), and saw that the bottom of the pot had been warped due to the heat.

Most likely, someone turned the knob the wrong way by accident when they shut the burner off. However, the paranoid side of me is thinking "sabotage". Is coming home to a burner set on low something to be suspicious about? Even if it was an accident, what harm could there be from having a burner running this way unattended for hours (excluding the waste of gas or the risk of fire, I'm thinking along the lines of gas leak or something nonobvious)? Is there a legitimate use for doing that, such as heating a pot of water to humidify the room?


texts: Why would my water taste like plastic fumes?

texts:
My father and I finally installed my wall mount bathroom sink and re-attached the existing faucet using the existing hardware. Now the water tastes horrible. It smells noticeably fume-y, and tastes like the water has been sitting in an old plastic bottle in the sun all day.

I'm on the fifth floor of a six story pre-war apartment building. My downstairs neighbors report no foul tasting water in her bathroom which is on the same riser.  I taste it in both the hot and cold water, but not in the shower which is two feet away from the sink. I'm tempted to disconnect the hoses and run those each into a glass to figure out whether the problem is before or after the hose.

What might we have done in the course of installing the new sink that would introduce such a horrible smell? My father did a lot of the work on his own and is adamant that nothing he did could make the water taste bad, but he also says he can't taste the water. At least three other people have spit the water out and said "eww, that tastes like plastic or something."

Everything about the sink smelled like fumes immediately after it was installed -- very acrid plastic-y fumes. The overall smell has more or less dissipated, but the water stinks, and has for days now.


texts: It’s true. I’m telling you I’ve seen them. It’s a masonry screw with the typical triangular tip seen on all masonry drill bits. I saw them in the van of one of the utility companies here in town and was blown away. I went to Fastenal and they didn’t have them. I googled it a little bit and couldn’t find anything. Does anyone know what I’m talking about and where I can buy these things? I’m sure they’re expensive but it’s worth to me to be able to skip the pre drilling step altogether.


texts: Support for enlarged opening for new doors

texts:
I’m considering enlarging an entry door (to the outside) from a single door to double doors (rough opening basically enlarged from 35” to 70”). It’s a two story brick house on field stone foundation (100+ years old). The foundation “appears” solid. No crumpling or cracks.
So my question is, should I consider if more support (concrete footing?)is needed for where the new king and jack studs will rest on the sill plate? I know the foundation is supporting it now, but with the enlarged open there will be more pressure on those two specific spots rather than spread out.


texts: Does a cover exist for a 3.5 inch round electrical box?

texts: I have a 3.5 inch round electrical box in the garage that is being used as a junction box. The inspector says that it has to be covered. However, I am unable to find a 3.5 inch pvc cover for this box. Anyone know if such a thing exists? I bought a 4 inch cover at home depot, but it is too big.


texts: Does using central heating increase water usage?

texts: Its most likely a very trivial question but central heating systems aren't something i'm familiar with, I've had a good dig around on the internet and cannot find any reference that states that specifically using central heating consumes water, not considering any other form of water consumption e.g. using the shower.


texts: Light and fan not working - is the wiring correct?

texts:
So I've come home today to see that the bathroom light and fan is not switching on.

Having unscrewed the switch, I can see this:

Now it looks like the earth has come completely off, but I wouldn't expect that to have caused the light and fan not to work...or am I wrong here?

Do I connect the earth into the only obvious connector?


texts:
I'm planning a wooden table with concrete legs. I will use a U-shape or O-Shape for the legs.
Should i use screws to attach the legs to the slab or is there a better way?
I thought of placing a metal angle in the concrete but i dont know if its the perfect plan to prevent the table from wobbling (if thats the right word)

EDIT:
i didn't use the concrete legs idea and made a table with steel legs.


texts: What to do with small patch of wallpaper in middle of wall?

texts:
I have a patch of wallpaper in the middle of a wall I am trying to paint. Its only about 18 inches tall and 6 inches wide.

It doesn't seem to want to come off, I tried using a razor blade to take it off, but its on there too good.

I believe it to be very old, and it probably wasn't put on right (it was there when I moved in) I do not want to damage the wall... What would happen if I just painted right over it?


texts: How to permanently secure shelves for built-ins

texts:
I have used a set of Billy book selves from Ikea to create a built-in unit. I will be placing the shelves in place, then filling the rest of the holes (which allow for adjustment of the shelves). The intent is for the shelves to stay in place, to never be removed. How should I affix the shelves so they will stay permanently? Obviously I'll be using the pins which come with the book shelves to support the shelves, but I want to ensure they stay in place. Should I use something like Liquid Nails to keep them in place? Would the latex paint I'll be spraying the unit with be enough to hold them in place? Or is there a better way to ensure they don't move?

EDIT NOTE: The shelving units are already in place. If I'd have thought about it before hand, I would have used screws in the side to secure them in place.


texts: I am currently trying to install a light fixture and I'm really confused, I've never seen wiring like this before and I'm not sure what goes where. There are 6 wires in total, 3 black and 3 white. 2 of the blacks and one of the whites are wrapped in tape, 2 of the whites are capped off together and one if the blacks is capped off alone. How do I tell the difference between them and which is the ground?


texts: What diameter of Metal Gate posts are needed for a 10' x 4' tubal gate

texts: I want to install a 10' tubular gate using a steel or aluminum gate posts.  My question is what diameter do I need to use to keep it from sagging?  I guess I should purchase a 8' length for my 4' fence but what diameter?


texts:
I had to remove a relatively large section of the drywall, approximately 24x24 inches. There are two metal studs at the sides.

Should I try to cut out so both the existing and the new drywall will touch half of the metal stud on each side? And put in screws on both sides? Or there is a more clever way to fix this?


texts: I have a metal hallow medallion that I want to glue to glass. I have tries gorilla glue, silicone adhesive, e-6000, jewelry and metal glue from Aileens. Because of the hallow center nothing adheres. Any suggestions?


texts: When a GFCI breaker pops, is there a way to tell whether it popped for the GFCI reason or because of excessive current?


texts:
I’m replacing my light switches with Lutron Caseta switches. When I pull the old ones out I noticed they don’t have grounds. The box they are in is plastic. Is it okay to not ha e a ground in the new light switch?

Also are there switches where the wire is part of the switch. I loosened the screws but the wire wouldn’t come out. I’m assuming it’s attached to the switch itself and that I’ll need to cut the wire.


texts: Best way to wet vent a washing machine and utility sink?

texts:
I inherited a small mess that I am cleaning up. The basement washing machine and utility sink wet vent into a 1-1/2" riser that goes thru the concrete slab, w/ an air admittance valve. I am stuck with that situation (these were installed by a plumber for the previous owner.) I don't know the DFU but if not large enough I'll change the AAV (or add a second.)

The W/M trap was cracked -- see pix -- (and the drain for the U/S is in a  horrendously stupid location thru the legs - and notice the copper to galvanized to pex -- so I am starting anew with it all.) I may finish that room at some point, so might install a W/M supply/drain box - not sure.

Q1: The wye for the U/S drain - isn't that a No-No -- should have been a San Tee??

Q2: I'll locate the W/M riser/trap 12-18" above the slab - should I use 2" (and also there to the slab) even though the thru-slab is 1-1/2?

Q3: I plan to use an S-Tee for the W/M drain.  OK?

Q4: Concerned w/ the high W/M flow/pumping - do I need to back vent the W/M drain (or I could add a second riser/AAV??)

Q5: Any reason to lower the U/S drain and stack the S-Tee above the W/M S-Tee (I'd think it's best to keep as much separation as I can)?

Q6: What's the reasoning for the W/M trap 12-18" and a max 30" riser (just curious)?

Q7: This pic floats around - isn't the wye for the W/M a no-no? Or is that only with a wye on the trap arm itself?
And the sink drain looks too steep - is the vent entry below the trap weir level?

Thanks for looking at this!


texts: Use impact driver or impact wrench for lag screws?

texts:
Assume 100 ft lb on the socket for impact driver and 300 ft lb on the socket for impact wrench, what's appropriate for driving 3" lag screws? Would an impact wrench break the screw?

If the torque is adjustable, the wrench seems like it's potentially more useful for re-use on cars. Also seems to be 50% heavier than impact drivers.

Update: it's a 5/16" screw and I broke it with a 100 ft lb impact driver so I guess for the purpose of the question, an impact wrench would definitely excessive.


texts:
My air conditioner when left on never seems to shut off. Even during the night when it substantially cools down it still seems to run all night.

I live in Ottawa, Ontario and for example tonight the temperature is down to about 18 degrees celcius and want even a very warm day and it's been running for at least an hour straight and its been turned on (I don't know if it's been running) all day and set to a reasonable temperature of 25 degrees celcius.

Any trouble shooting tips or ideas?


texts: Insulation in the attic with ridge vent and eaves

texts: Do I need to leave space over top plate at eaves when adding insulation if I have a ridge vent


texts: Installing a PIR Motion Detector - Not working because it requires a neutral wire

texts:
This is going to make me sound daft but I am new to DIYing and by no means an electrician! But I am trying to install a motion sensor light switch on the ceiling where a pull cord switch used to be.

I have connected the two red live wires and the earth wire but there is no neutral.

As it's not working, my idea of "maybe it won't need it" was obviously wrong. What are my options here as there is no neutral wire? Is there a way round it?

Thank you for any help given!


texts: Can I replace a 40A breaker with a 50A breaker?

texts: I am changing a 40A 2-pole (240V) Federal Pacific Electric Co. circuit breaker but I can't find one.  Can I use a 50A 2-pole? It's for a wall oven.


texts: Should I paint wood in a roof that is not directly exposed to the outside?

texts:
I'm currently in the process of replacing the roof of a room. This room was originally a balcony, so has never been part of the main house. The roof that was removed had wood beams with wood strips/planks on top of the beams, and a cement sheet on top of that.

I'm located in Bombay, India, where we get the monsoons. These are basically really, really heavy rains for a few months of the year, approx June through September. So, any roof needs to be pretty effectively waterproof. The roof described above was leaking quite badly and had some problems with mice getting in there, so had to be replaced.

When reconstructing the new ceiling, I left the wooden beams alone, and replaced the wood strips/planks. Then I put a aluminum sheet over that. On top of that goes thin strips of wood, like 1 1/2 inches vs 1 inches in width/thickness as a frame for ceiling clay tiles (I think they are clay). The tiles are quite heavy, so they just get placed into the wooden frame, not attached. Supposedly all the wood is teak, though that is hard to check. To summarize, the structure is:

ceiling tiles
=============
thin wooden frame for clay ceiling tiles
========================================
aluminum sheet
==============
wooden strips/planks
====================
wooden beams
============

Just to be clear, I'm not actually doing any of this; there are people doing it for me. So, I guess this is not really a suitable question for a DIY site. :-)

My question is whether it makes sense to paint the thin wooden pieces of wood that constitute the frame for the tiles for water protection. The people who are doing it for me say it is not necessary, since the wooden tile frame won't come into direct contact with water, as the tiles are on top of it. The underlying wooden frame isn't getting painted either, but that makes more sense to me, since it is under the aluminum. However, the frame for the tiles is closer to potential water exposure.

So, does it make sense to paint wood in such a situation? More generally, how much does painting wood help to protect it from water/moisture in general?


texts: Attaching new drain trap to a galvanized stub out

texts:
I am replacing a vanity in my bathroom. The brass p-trap from the old sink was connected to the galvanized stub out as seen below. While there haven't been any leaks that I'm aware of, the slip nut that attached the p-trap is broken so I want to replace the whole p-trap and connection. I realize galvanized drains are bad news but I don't have the resources to replace them right now so I'm focusing on what I can control.

My question is, what is the best means to connect a new PVC p-trap to the existing galvanized stub out?

My plan is to use a 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" zinc slip nut with a reducing washer to replace the broken one (assuming I can get the old one off cleanly) and attach the new p-trap. Will this work?

Alternatively, I read about using a brass waste connector which screws on to the stub out further than a slip nut and reduces the chance for issues related to corroded threads. Would this be better?

Should I use pipe dope or teflon tap when installing the new slip nut/connector? How clean from the old pipe dope does the stub out need to be?

Update 3/4/2020: After attempting a new zinc slip nut and washer, I simply couldn't get a good enough seal to prevent a very slow drip. The bottom of the pipe had a small notch that I think was to blame.

Ultimately, I ended up installing a brass waste connector from Home Depot with teflon tape, then connected the trap arm with the nut that came with the brass waste connector and a new rubber washer. The nut did extend the trap a little further making it difficult to re-install. Time will tell if this is a lasting solution.


texts: How can I fill a drywall hole in a corner?

texts:
When taking skirting off, I accidentally made a drywall hole in a corner of the room. This is an interior wall, and it is empty: at least the hole is pretty deep (10cm) and I cannot feel anything with my finger, when I put it there.
I read about using fiber mesh patches, but not sure if I would be able to apply those in the corner. Any advise appreciated.


texts: What are these fibers embedded in the foam core of a steel exterior door?

texts:
I've been cutting down a steel door to fit a short old basement doorway and am currently cutting out the foam core at the bottom so that the interior bottom rail of the door can be replaced.  The foam core looks like standard styrofoam, but I noticed that it seems to be fiber-reinforced.  I've lived in an old house for long enough to assume that all building materials are deadly until proven otherwise, so I'd like to know what these fibers are.  Just fiberglass? Something even more benign?

It's a newly bought Jeld-Wen steel clad exterior door.


texts: Bathroom in-wall exhaust fan with dimmer?

texts:
In searching this SE, I see many questions discussing traditional ceiling fans and dimmer switches.

This question revolves around bathroom in-wall exhaust fans and dimmer switches.  Is it safe to replace a standard on/off switch with a dimmer switch for an in-wall bathroom exhaust fan?  Will doing so quickly destroy the fan?

The fan is a standard construction-grade inexpensive in-wall exhaust fan.

The idea is to conserve energy and reduce fan noise.

After my mother-in-law cooks a meal, it can be turned up to full power in order to handle the increased noxious vapors in the bathroom due to all the urgent visits.  Otherwise, it can be used at lower levels.


texts: Do tiles look darker when hanging on a wall than they'll appear when layed horizontally on the floor?

texts:
The salesman in the showroom told us that the tiles we see hanging on the wall will be 20% lighter when are layed down horizontaly on the floor, so we should take into account when choosing our prefered color.

Is this true or it's only a sales people myth? (I tried to google to find anybody mention this interesting fact but couldn't really find any source for that)


texts: What should I expect to find above garage ceiling (drywall)?

texts: Okay, I am not too familiar with residential constructions. I know that the master bedroom (second floor) of my home is directly over the garage (first floor). Now, I know that if I were to open or tear down the drywall ceiling in the master bedroom (on the second floor), then a lot of insulation would fall down. However, if I were to open or tear down the drywall ceiling in the garage (to run wiring, etc.), what should I expect to find? The home was built in 2007, and it is located in the metro Houston area.


texts: Installing a tankless water heater next to electric service panel

texts:
I am in the process of installing an outdoor natural gas tankless water heater. The issue I'm running into is clearances around the heater. There's a small spot on the back wall of the house where I'd like it installed.
The installation instructions require its exhaust vent to be located at least 12" away from an open window, but in order to meet this requirement I would need to mount it right next to my main electrical service panel (and electric meter).
The only code requirements I've found regarding clearances around an electrical panel are allowing at least a 30" working space (side to side). From what I understand, the panel can be located anywhere within that 30" boundary, so if this is the case I believe I can mount the heater pretty much right next to it as long as there's enough clearance on the opposite side to get me to that 30" width.
I've attached a graphic that shows the measurements on the house and a diagram that gives an example of how to comply with the electrical code:


texts:
I'm finishing my basement ceiling which includes building a bulkhead around ductwork, plumbing and two CSST gas lines. When the house was built (2002) the contractors used just enough of the CSST to get from point A to point B pinned to the underside of the ceiling joists. For the most part I'm able to tuck the lines inside the bulkhead for the length of the room, as opposed to having them run just above the drywall. Everything would work great if one of the lines was just a bit longer. (See attached photo.)
Shouldn't I be able to splice in 4-5 feet of CSST to make it fit? Information seems scarce on this but some sources seem to say (according to codes) that you can't "splice" CSST gas lines -- that it has to be one continuous run. That seems odd but I can't find anything saying that splicing is just fine. I know my stuff when it comes to carpentry, plumbing and electric, but have no experience with gas lines. I'm not opposed to bringing in a professional to make this happen but wanted to see what options are available. Any help greatly appreciated!


texts:
I live in a 1920s row home. It is 17' x 35'. We are planning on essentially rewiring the whole house since there are limited outlets and all the switches need to be replaced and the ceiling lights need to be replaced. I don't know where to place the light switches.

As you walk in the front door you immediately enter the living room with 3 switches on your left that controls the porch, living room, and stairs lights.

As you walk 11' through the living room you get to the stairs and the dining room. There is a switch for the stairs lights at the top of the steps. The dining room also has a single switch when you walk in. After walking through the 11' dining room, you get to the kitchen with a single switch.

What this means is that if the sun sets while you are in the kitchen and then want to go upstairs for the night you need to:

1) walk through the dining room and turn on the dining room light

2) walk back through the dining room and turn off the kitchen light

3) walk through the dining room and living room and turn on the living room light

4) walk back through the living room and turn off the dining room light

5) walk back through the living room and turn on the stairway lights and turn off the living room light

6) walk back through the now darkish living room and up the stairs

As crazy as this sounds, the rooms are 11' long, so it is not that much walking, but the house is too dark to walk without lights.

Do I add switches on both sides of every room?

If there are two switches for the dining room, do I put them inside the room, or outside (one in the kitchen and one in the living room)?

I was also thinking about motion sensitive switches.


texts: Wiring Smart Switch to Always Be On and Power Switch

texts:
When using an Insteon 6/8 scene switch with smart wifi lights like a Lifx/Hue, would like to program the on/off buttons to a scene to turn the smart light on and off via software. That I can do.

However, need to have the switch wired to always be on. If I plug the line directly to the load with a nut, the light would always be on, but then no power would be going to the switch, I need power to the switch.

Is it as simply as attaching the line from the switch to the line from the wall and to the load going to the light together? And then capping off the load wire coming from the switch? In theory that seems to make sense, but would that work?

And yes, if house ever sold, would need to rewire back, or if ever need to turn off power to the light would need to flip the power breaker downstairs.

To note, the switch has a ground wire and neutral wire, both which would leave hooked up as is. Also this is a one way switch in a house built in the past 10 years.


texts: drain pipe for washer over flowing! Help!

texts: I bought a used washer machine and every time it goes in spin cycle it over flows out of the drain pipe in the wall. Before this I had a new front loader and it never did this. I also just moved into a different house and turned on the washer last night and it did the same thing. The drain hose was large so I bought a new low pressure hose this morning. It still over flowed. What I did notice is you can hear the drain pipe filling up before it overflows. So I stopped the washer to let the water in the drain pipe drain. Turned washer on again and it started to overflow again. Third time I started the washer it drained without over flowing. I know it can't be a clog because never had a problem with the old washer at the old house and it's doing it at the new house. So it has to be the washer. What do I do??


texts: How do I screw two posts together so that they look seamless and can easily be taken apart and put back together?

texts:
I would appreciate help so much!

I am trying to make a 'collapsible' arbor if you will. I would ideally like to saw my large birch posts in half and make them screw back together in the center, but I have no idea how the mechanics of such a thing would work. Double headed large screws!? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: Separate or combined boiler and hot water heater

texts:
I'm looking to replace my boiler and hot water heater.

For background, I live near Boston, my home is about 2000 square feet, we have gas for heat, stove, and dryer, and we are two people in the house.

It seems that there are three basic options:

Combination boiler and tankless hot water heater
Combination boiler and hot water tank
Separate boiler and hot water tank

For a novice, the first option seems to be the most efficient option, but one plumber strongly advocated for the third option.

His reason is that the boiler is expensive and it is only really needed for 5 months of the year.  A combined unit requires the boiler to be used all year and thus puts unnecessary wear on it.

What else should I consider in selecting between these three options?  It is an expensive job so I want to make sure I do it right.


texts: Is there an adhesive I can use with anchors to keep them from pulling out?

texts: I am mounting shelves using plastic anchors in masonry. I once saw a contractor use an adhesive on the anchors to prevent them from pulling out. I realize that by design this should not be necessary. But, if one wanted a little better strength to ensure the anchor would not pull out, what adhesive would be used?


texts: Anyone have an idea about unidentified constant noise/vibration in single-family house?

texts:
I cannot find the source of a constant noise & vibration that have recently (month or so) been happening in our single-family house. I've asked 2 different people, including our handyman, who checked several things, but so far only I have been able to hear/feel it.

We are hundreds of feet away from any neighbors. I've lived in several apartments and if this weren't a single-family not right next to anyone I'd be sure the noise I was hearing was either 1) a neighbor in an apartment below (only a crawlspace there) playing either an upright bass, constantly day in, day out, or music with a deep bass line.. or 2) Someone's tv on very loud at a distance, or 3) An engine of a machine of some sort with a low, constant, repetitive bass sound. Rapid Boom boom boom boom, Boom boom boom boom, over and over; I can feel the vibration in my feet or in my hand if I put it on the wall.

The house has electric baseboard heat, there is no furnace. There is a new sump pump that was installed around the time of the noise starting, cut the circuit to it off, no difference in the sound. Unplugged the fridge, no difference in the sound. I walked around the entire neighborhood trying to hear if it was coming from someone's house; nothing. The only thing we haven't tried is cutting off all electricity to the house. I guess that will be next.

It's beginning to really wear on me just as though a neighbor were playing loud music non-stop on and on and on, and I'm afraid it will begin to affect my health if it keeps up. Does anyone here have any ideas, suggestions?  I hope??!!


texts:
My water heater went out and I'd like to replace it with a tankless. Electrical setup is as follows:

A.O.Smith 50gal water heater - 1, 30amp double pole breaker

Tankless needs - 2, 40amp double pole breakers

I have a 125amp Eaton breaker box. I'd like to know if I can replace the 30amp DP with a 40amp DP, add another 40amp DP, run 8 gauge wire, and still keep the same 125amp breaker box without doing damage or running the possibility of burning the condo down?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan


texts: Is it possible to make space for a double-pole breaker in this panel?

texts:
I need to add a 90A double-pole breaker to the service panel on my house to feed a subpanel in a detached garage. It is a GE that uses Q-line breakers. Looking at the current layout, I'm not sure it can be done. I've had a few electricians say it is possible to make room, whereas others have indicated a subpanel is needed next to this one.

It looks like there is a half-space available under the heat pump breakers. I was considering replacing the dishwasher and microwave breakers with a 15A tandem breaker, but this would only free up 1.5 slots total. The full size breakers in the upper left portion are AFCI. I don't think I can replace these with tandem breakers and still remain in code even if I replace the receptacles with the AFCI type.

Is there any way to accomplish this without needing to add a subpanel?


texts: How can I paint/stain an interior concrete floor?

texts:
I have a very lovable aging bulldog who has peed on the wall-to-wall carpet enough that I'm ripping it out. It's over twenty years old anyway.

The subfloor is a concrete slab. My goal is to make the concrete livable. Goals in order:

Urine-proof (waterproof). A puddle may sit for five hours before I get home to clean it up. Ideally a bit of soap and water, and no trace is left behind. None.
Low VOC products. I've got severe allergies to many/most chemicals. These rooms are my primary living space. I'll test whatever I plan to use, but I need to be very careful so as not to make the place uninhabitable for me. I'm disabled, and am in the main room probably twenty hours a day.
Easy application. Fewer products, fewer applications is better, though it's not the primary deciding factor.
Something attractive. Least important, but I'm thinking more mottled see-thru stain than I am glossy garage floor. Probably a medium brownish color.

I found some Behr products at Home Depot, but received conflicting information. At this point I'd consider Behr Solid Color Concrete Stain, or Behr 1-Part Epoxy Concrete & Garage Floor Paint.

The Home Depot employee giving me advice said I don't need to prime either product. Just apply to bare concrete. Said either product would satisfy the waterproof requirement.

However, the specs on the products contradict that guidance. Both say "primer required". The stain is "waterproof", the paint is not. Neither product is a "sealer". I'd have thought one of the goals was to seal the porous nature of the floor, at least a 1/2" down, no?

I am looking at priming with Seal-Krete Lock-Down Epoxy Bonding Floor Primer (sorry, I don't have enough reputation to post the link). A big plus for me is that it's the only product thus far with a Low VOC rating. If I understand it, this will seal the pores, and allow the paint/stain to bond properly. It's amber-clear, so it seems that would work under brown-tinted stain, even if the stain isn't completely opaque.

Does this sound like a good plan? Prime with the Seal-Krete, and follow with the Solid Stain?

Initially I wanted a transparent stain, to see the mottling of the concrete. But I had to prime. Since I'm probably priming anyway, would Behr Semi-Transparent Concrete Stain work? My concern is if the urine will puddle, or seep in? The product is not waterproof.


texts: Vapor Barrier Plastic over upside down crawlspace Insulation

texts: I bought a rambler built in 1972.  Had guys replace the insulation.  Inspector came and said they put it in upside down.  It's a shallow crawlspace and would be a mess to tear off paper and hard to turn over.  Can I put a plastic vapor barrier the insulation to keep moisture & pest out? I can't afford to take it all down and start over.  Thank you for any help, Lisa


texts: What are the pros and cons of different types of windows?

texts:
I live in the North Eastern corner of US, and my house has 50 year old single-pane wooden windows. They held up not too bad, considering, but now I want to replace them all. Things that are important to me are:

Decent energy efficiency (this, hopefully, is easy to judge -- the numbers are "printed on the box")
Durability (this is a tough one to know up front. All I know is that I hate broken seals)
Maintenance free-ness
Not astronomically expensive.

Coming from the IT world, I usually obsess with specs and numbers, and new shiny things tend to excite me -- after reading various stuff online for a bit, my thinking goes: "vinyl is cheap for a reason, wood is nice looking but requires maintenance, and fiberglass is where it's at!" But is it even the right approach? Should I stop obsessing about technology, and instead focus on finding a great manufacturer (under the assumption that great vinyl window will live longer then an average fiberglass one).

I guess my actual questions are:

Is window technology important? And if it is, then what's good?
What are the good window manufacturers?
What else am I missing (let's talk about just picking the right windows, and not even start on installation)


texts:
My LCD TV, which I use as computer monitor, is connected to the same electric socket as the freezer (I do not have other sockets nearby). Whenever the freezer engine starts working, the TV blinks. This is uncomfortable, and I am also afraid that it may damage the screen.

Is this really dangerous for the screen?

What can I do to prevent it (other than installing another socket)?


texts: Put media filter in place of electronic air filter

texts: I have a trion iaq 1400 electronic air filter in my house. I decided to take the filters out and replace them with a 5 inch media filter. My problem is that there is a small space between the filter and the door. Any suggestions about how to fill that space? Thank you


texts:
I am trying to create dim lighting at my lounge. The problem I am facing is lack of knowledge or understanding of the light positioning, intensity and light reflection. I made a few experiments but failed miserably.

I would like to create enough light at the couch, so I can read a book, but at the same time I don't want to have a bright source of light as it will mess the ambient atmosphere. I tried using halogen bulbs, but looks like I need to use a dimmer with them.

I have a single ceiling light and 3-4 floor and table-standing light sources with no built-in dimmers. I was trying to use low power bulbs, but that just create irritating lighting - semi darkness.

Could anyone answer or recommend books/blogs on how to create dim cosy lighting?


texts:
I have this coating on my front porch which is starting to disintegrate. I think the porch slab is probably still good, so I want to just replace the coating but I can't figure out what it is. I'm almost positive that it was added to the porch to add traction; especially when wet. Can someone help me identify this?  I could also use some advice on how to replace it... I'm looking for a good solution to clean up how this looks, not necessarily a perfect solution.

This coating is very hard like the cement, and became damaged from salt, also similar to cement.


texts: What can I do about a damaged finish of Bruce hardwood floors?

texts:
we recently contracted someone to help us remodel a home in Florida to fix and resell. As it ended up the contractor was not currently licensed. We should have known by the way he was working on things.

He put paper on my Bruce Hardwood floors and secured it with painters tape (blue) from HD. The project was supposed to last three weeks and ended up being 8 weeks. He added layer after layer of paper and tape.

When he was out of here, he and worker pulled up the paper and tape only to reveal long strips some with the grain of the board and some sideways over two or three boards where the tape pulled up the finish coat on the boards.

At first I thought it was glue, but H.D said that here in the south where it is hot, it does not take long for the properties of the glue to change. Thus pulling up the finish with it.

Please advise what would be the least expensive and less intensive way to repair these boards.

I hate the thought of spending a grand to have the entire floor sanded and refinished.


texts: Loud buzzing noise from newly installed motor in swamp cooler

texts:
I just Installed a new swamp cooler motor, 2 spd, on previous owners 1 spd wiring.

When i flip the switch there is a loud buzzing noise and the shaft doesn't spin. I Adjusted belt and no change.

Any help would be much appreciated.


texts: Why I am seeing brick dust on my basement walls?

texts:
So lately I noticed a lot brick dust in my basement walls-should I be concerned? The house is a 100 year row house.
[2
[]3


texts: When wiring a switch, should I break the neutral or power wire?

texts: My husband has always wired a switch to break the neutral wire to turn a light on and off.  I can remember for 40 years he has said to "break the neutral".  However, our son worked as an electrician for 2 years and he said you always "break" the "power" wire (black one)  Who is correct?  Thank you!!


texts:
Through Googling, Youtube, and Home Depo (:\ ) I think I understand the basics, but what everyone fails to mention is the ground wire. I understand what purpose it serves, and would like to wire this as safely as possible.

Sorry for the huge pics, first time posting.

Here is the fixture: Here we see the two main wires

The mirror looking one is the top that goes over the sockets and the one that the ground wire is attached to.

The Home Depot guy suggested I get this

and an Indoor 2 Outlet Wireless Remote with 2 grounded outlets per the box.

So if the plug in outlets are grounded is this okay, or do I really need a three prong extension cord?  Do they sale wireless light switches that have three prong outlets? If using the lamp chord I have now will suffice, what do I do with the ground wire? I'd also like to point out there is a green grounding screw on the main part of the fixture even though I have no clue if that matters


texts:
I seem to have a fairly large chip in one of my foundation cinderblocks.

Is this type of damage repairable as a DIY project?


texts: Add 120 volt outlet to a 240 volt disconnect

texts: I have a 240 volt breaker in my main breaker panel feeding a local outdoor disconnect (black, white, red & ground) for an outdoor sauna. Can I take leads off the black, white & groun, before the disconnect and make a local 120 panel with its own breaker?


texts: Replacing wall plate with load bearing studs

texts:
I need to replace the wall plate under a window that itself supports half a dozen or so load bearing studs.

I have a pair of post jacks that I plan on placing atop the horizontal stud immediately in front of it.  I plan on jacking two joists that connect to the wall in question.  I then plan on cutting the target stud out with an angle grinder (set with a wood blade) and replacing it.

Good idea?  Bad?


texts: Is there a simplified chart of how many amps can I get at a distance by wire gauge?

texts:
I'm looking for a simplified chart of max amperage based off wire type and distance.  Something like this:

                          50ft  75ft  100ft 150ft  200ft  250ft  300ft
NM-B 12 Gauge             20Amp 20Amp 20Amp  ??     ??     ??     ??
Extension Cord 14 Gauge   15Amp 12Amp 8Amp   ??     ??     ??     ??

I'm pretty sure that things are more complex than this, but this isn't a high end job, it's a temporary fix to a much bigger problem.  I just need some way to figure out what can be done.


texts:
I have a 1/2 gas line that I ran a couple years ago outside to my back patio for a fire pit.  My problem is the burner that I bought does not put out a large enough flame.  I want to make my own "burner" by taking a pipe and just drilling some holes into it.

If one were to take a straight pipe off the natural gas line in the house and ignite it at the end, what prevents the gas from igniting INSIDE the pipe and blowing up the whole house?  From what I've read, gas needs air to ignite, so that would prevent that from ever happening??  Or, is there some type of regulator needed (like on a propane tank) to keep it from backing up the line and igniting?