texts: Better to run air conditioner fan on high or low speed?

texts:
In my apartment, I have two window air conditioning units.  Both have different settings for the fan speed: one has two speed options and the other has three.  Both have the design that the room circulation fan and the condensor coil cooling fan run on the same shaft, so the speeds of the two fans are identical.

My main question is, which fan speed setting should I use if my goal is to make the rooms these A/C units are in as cool as possible?  I had originally guessed I would want to use the lowest speed setting, since that's when the air comes out the coolest and also (since I live in a humid area) less air passes the coils per minute and thus less of the cooling power of the unit is being invested in dehumidification but rather spent directly on cooling the air.

However, as I thought about it more, I realized my picture of the situation was oversimplified.  For example, running the fans faster moves more air through the unit per minute and thus the temperature of the air coming out is cooler, but there's more air coming out at the not-as-cool temperature so it probably balances out (by energy conservation, it should balance out).  Also, running the fans faster means the outside fan is better able to cool the coolant, possibly allowing the unit to run at a cooler temperature overall.  And finally, maybe investing more cooling power in dehumidifying the room will help reach a cooler temperature overall since eventually the room will be at a lower humidity and the A/C unit will be investing less cooling power pulling the water out of the air.

Poking around online, I found this statement from an energy.gov website:

  Set the fan speed on high, except on very humid days. When humidity is high, set the fan speed on low for more comfort. The low speed on humid days will cool your home more effectively and remove more moisture from the air because of slower air movement through the cooling equipment.

So, according to the US government, running the fan speed on high is the best course of action except on very humid days (but no explanation why).  They also say that running on a low fan speed on humid days will both cool your home more effectively and remove more moisture.

So, my questions: If I want to get my rooms as cool as possible, what is the best fast speed setting to use on my air conditioners and why?  Does this answer change depending on how humid the day is, and if so, how?  Is the advice from energy.gov sound?

(I have a strong physics background, so I'm fine with a detailed physical or mathematical explanation.)


texts: Installing a new electric cooktop details

texts: Printed instructions for my new electric cooktop say: A 3-wire or 4-wire, single phase, 120/240 volt, 60-Hz., AC only electrical supply is required on a separate, 40-amp circuit fused on both sides of the line. Obviously there are breakers in the breaker box, but what does "40-amp circuit fused on both sides of the line" mean? Thanks!


texts: Should gaps be left between sheets of drywall for any reason?

texts: My cousin says I should leave 1/4" space between all edges of drywall so that mud can be pressed into it. Everything I've read online say to butt them tight. When is leaving a gap a good idea?


texts: I recently had rain gutters installed on my house. Should house gutters have gaps/spaces between the facia board and the gutters? My gutters appear to be leaking.


texts:
Just had a curtain drain to address yet another spring in our back yard that was causing dampness in the crawlspace. If I could bottle this stuff I might become rich!

After the curtain drain was installed I noticed the areas on both sides were pretty soupy and would sink you pretty fast. The company used a backhoe and there was indeed a huge amount of water everywhere. He said it will firm up after the water has drained out. Does anyone have an idea of how long this might take? He said i can take 1-3 weeks and with rain in the next 2 days I suspect longer.

Thank you


texts: How to remove caps on circular faucet handles?

texts:
My faucet is leaking from the base of the handle so I need to replace the cartridge or rubber seat.  I'm having trouble removing the cap to the handle to change the cartridge and rubber seat.

I don't know what brand the faucet set is but it might be Delta since all the other faucet sets in the house are Delta.

As the photo shows, the handles are circular.  The caps on top of the handles don't seem to come off by twisting counter-clockwise.  I also looked around to see if there's a notch to stick a screwdriver into to pop it off.  No notch either.  I checked for a set screw too.  No set screw on the handle.

Someone else suggested there might be some mineral deposits around the caps so I tapped the cap/faucet with a rubber mallet.  It still doesn't come off.

As an example of why I thought we need to twist counter-clockwise, one of our shower handles have a similar handle type.  I was able to twist the cap off with a counter-clockwise motion to expose the screw to remove the handle.

I tried to find installation instructions on Delta's website for their Monitor faucet set that looks like what I have but again, no luck.  I'm running out of ideas on how to remove the cap without resorting to using an oscillating tool to cut the cap or faucet off.

Can anyone tell me what else to try to get the cap off the faucet handle?  Thanks.


texts:
I am looking for a strap mount bracket.  I have seen them on products but I need to buy one for a home project and can't find one for sale, probably because I don't know what it is called.

The bracket is made from an 1/8 inch round stock, it is about 2 inches (or shorter) and raised slightly.  It mounts to a flat surface like wood or metal.  A strap goes through and swings back around.  Generally used when applying 5 or 10 pounds holding power, where the strap will be loosed and re-tightened occasionally.


texts:
I have a Legrand (Pass & Seymour H703P) dimmer that I installed in a 4 way circuit.  This dimmer has its common connected to the line so it's 1st in the circuit line and not in the middle or end.  This dimmer also has a green indicator light that goes ON when the lights are off and goes OFF when the lights are on.

Why does the indicator light on the switch only go dim when the lights are on as opposed to going completely off?  The other 2 toggle switches work perfectly as does the dimmer itself in the grand scheme of things but just the green indicator on the dimmer has me concerned with only going dim when on and not completely off.

I have this same dimmer on another circuit but it's a 3 way circuit and it works like it should with the indicator light off when the lights are on.  Is this because it's on a 4 way circuit and that it is expected to be dim when on?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Replacing Light Fixture with Extra White Wire

texts:
So I took off a broken chandelier and wanted to replace with a simple flush ceiling light. When doing so, I found two black and two white connected properly, but found a lone white wire that was covered by a twist-on. What would this be for? The chandelier never worked after I moved in so I'm not sure. Also, note that the fixture was connected to a rotary knob (dimmer).

Anyway, I wasn't sure what it was for so I attached the lone white to the other two. Now when I turn on the breaker it trips. What would it be for? Thanks!


texts: Ceiling fan light fixture comes on with fan

texts: I installed a new light fixture on my ceiling fan and apparently did something wrong with the wiring. The lights will only come on when the fan itself is running and are dim. It appears that they are somehow sharing the same power supply, I connected the light fixture to the white and black cords in the fan. I first attempted to connect the light fixture to the blue and white wires but this resulted in neither the fan or lights turning on. Any ideas on a fix?


texts: How to trace corrugated drain pipe without digging up my whole yard?

texts:
I have a 6” corrugated drain pipe that my gutters on the back of my house drain into, and then the drain pipe runs underground along the side of my house. I’m not 100% sure where it ends.
I’m looking to have some extra drainage built in my backyard, and it occurred to me that it might be possible to tap into the existing drain pipe and send the water that way, which would significantly reduce the amount of labor to build the drainage.
The problem is, again, I’m not sure where the drain pipe ends. And I need to know where my water will drain to. Is there a way to locate the pipe underground without digging up my whole lawn?
I have found part of the pipe on the side of my house so I know it goes at least 20’, but then there’s a pave walk in front of the house and I can’t predict where the pipe will go. If I start digging on the other side it would just be taking a guess of where it goes, it would be a crap shoot.
One potential solution that occurred to me would be to string electrical wire down the pipe and attach my tone tracer to the wire. Then if I can trace the wire (just like tracing it through the wall) I could locate the pipe location underground?


texts: I am using multiple heat sources and would like to monitor the furnace duct and turn on the furnace fan if it becomes warm and the fan is not on.  Since the thermostat or Fan Limit Control and the duct monitor will both energize the green wire, is there any chance of damaging the thermostat, Fan Limit Control or Fan Relay?  (actually not sure the Fan Limit Control uses the green wire.)  The monitor could provide the R voltage to the Green wire while the thermostat or Fan Limit Control is off and one could come on while the other is on.


texts: What to do for unused shower drain? (Prevent sewer vapors and mosquito larvae.)

texts:
I have a shower stall with a drain that is going unused. My first concern is that if the water evaporates out of the plumbing trap below, I could have sewer vapors coming up, so I pour in some water periodically. However my second concern is mosquito larvae growing down inside there since it's so infrequently disturbed i.e. flushed out. I've seen mosquitos in that bathroom, which makes me suspect this problem.

What's the best approach here to prevent both sewer vapors and mosquitos? I've thought about a one way valve for the drain, or maybe pouring oil or human-friendly insecticide down on the water in the trap.

How would you handle this?


texts: Hanging Ceiling Joists UNDER New Attic Header?

texts: I’m opening a load bearing wall between the kitchen and living room. I’ve overcome the offset basement girder with two new posts under the joists that will carry the new header load down from the attic. Header is sized at (2)2x10 and will rest at roughly an 8’ span. The joists that cross the load bearing wall and overlap are not the same size. 2x6 over kitchen and 2x8 over living room. Here is my plan and I’d love input on under/over built. I’d much rather error on the side of over. — Explaining the drawing below I plan to notch the 2x8 down to 2x6 height so the buried header can “rest” on both joists during the build even though eventually the load will be carried at the ends. This will allow for the use of face mount joist hangers to be attached to the joists and beam. Since they are hanging below I plan to used very deep hangers to grab the joists and still allow a minimum of 5” of attachment to the header. The kitchen side is going to have to be a double hanger since both joists cross under the header on that side, planning a MiTek HU214-2 or similar. The living room side can be a single since the 2x8 only extends that way, planning a MiTek HD216 or similar. — This is the best and strongest way I’ve come up with. Thank you.


texts: What’s the best way to remove this drywall texture?

texts: Just wondering what is the best method to remove the trowel pattern on my ceiling, want to take out the “pizza” pattern. Thank you.


texts: Why did my installer install 1/4 round corners like this and how can I fix it?

texts:
We had a guy come by to finish some previous tile work we had done. The morning of finishing the tile, he called and said he couldn't get the grout to stick along the edges, and it was just going under the baseboards and not setting up. He suggested we instead install 1/4 round to cover the edges.

I was fine with this, but the corners look... not right?

Considering these pieces are cut, do I have any options to fix this without buying more 1/4 round?


texts:
The drywallers forgot to cut a hole for my ethernet cable.  There is a coil of it behind the drywall.  Any ideas how to get it through without cutting a huge hole in the wall???
Thank you!


texts: Can I get 10 Gig on cat6a running through two wall jacks?

texts: I'd like to have cat6a running from the basement to a second floor room. I'd like to have a wall jack installed in the addict and plug a cable into that jack that runs into the second floor room. I want this kind of setup so I can add a switch in the future for more upstairs drops. Will going through two outlets cause any performance issues?


texts:
I have two double 3-way switches one upstairs and one downstairs. The bottom toggle on both switch controls the living room and the top toggle controls the top upstairs hall light.  The problem is that for the downstairs light (the only one I hooked up as of now) is that the top switch must be on for the light to be on. I connected the 12/3 wiring to what I think it should be hooked up to, namely A1 (traveler) going to A1 on switch 2 and B1 (line) going to B1 on switch 2.   Obviously I want 3 way switching behavior but the product diagram doesn't include a diagram for double 3 way to double 3 way switch connections.   Can anybody  help so I can work on the other light??

Switch2 (going to light)


texts: Trimming or spackling the edge of a tile schluter to drywall (Large Gap)

texts:
I would like to get any suggestions for closing this gap. The bathroom studs were out of plumb in an older house.

The edge of the schluter goes from 0 at the bottom to 3/4" at the top on one side. And the other side it goes from 0 to 1/4".

I attempted quick dry spackle to fill the gap and it looks horrendous. Does anyone have any ideas of certain trim (corner round won't lay flat) or possibly doing a second coat of good smooth spackle?


texts: What to do with the neutral in a 240V 2-pole hot tub disconnect?

texts:
I'm planning a hot tub installation (nothing built yet). The current plan is:

50A 240V 2 pole GFCI breaker indoors (added to existing 100A subpanel)
4-wire from subpanel to exterior disconnect (2 hots, neutral, ground)
4-wire from exterior disconnect to hot tub

I prefer the GFCI indoors to keep it out of the weather. That way the exposed disconnect is relatively inexpensive if it ever needs replacement.
I might not actually need a 4-wire (TBD) but it seems silly not to just have it and future-proof.
Most if not all disconnects I can find (either for "spas" or air conditioners) are 2-pole. So the question is: what to do with the neutral wire at the disconnect?

Does it need to be switched also, ie is a 3-pole disconnect required?
Even if not required, is there any benefit of switching the neutral anyway?
If not, how to connect the two neutral wires within the disconnect enclosure? Wire nuts? Bus bar? (Maybe if THWN is used it could just be continuous.)

Location: USA

I should add that I've looked at some PDFs of a few disconnects (when they are even available) and haven't seen this detail addressed. Maybe printed instructions would cover it but I didn't want to purchase anything before having a full plan.


texts: Do pex fittings need to be replaced when installing a new water heater?

texts: I have purchased a new water heater to replace the original 11 year unit. I am concerned in attaching the existing fittings to the new unit. I believe the builder used pex directly to the original heater. What is unclear to me is how these will behave when I begin to unscrew them. Should the fitting (B) slide free of the cold side brass fitting (C) or must these pieces be replaced? I believe the black fitting (E) will rotate free, but I have the same concern with the connection to the pressure valve (F) as I do the cold water supply.


texts: Does anyone make larger torsion spring clips for recessed lighting fixtures?

texts:
I've got recessed LED fixtures in the dining room. (Juno IC22 housings.) They were installed after the old plaster ceiling had been removed, so they're fastened to the joists with telescoping bar hangers.

Now that I'm installing a plank ceiling, I've found that in order to account for how far out of level the joists are, the finished height of the planks in the area of the fixtures is such that the adjustability of the fixture trim won't quite go low enough.

Here is a photo of one. It only needs to go about 1/2" lower. (That's the approaching planks coming in from the left.)

If the torsion spring clips can be replaced with some that are slightly longer, that would do it. The ones that came with it are four inches on either end of the spring.

I'm looking for some that are at least 4-1/2" on each leg of the spring. The only ones I've found available online are either labelled as 4" or don't have any dimensions specified.

Do these clips come in different sizes? Alternatively, is there another way to get the trim of the fixture about 1/2" lower.


texts: I've read that the rule is 1/4" per foot of drain line.  From what I know, the rule is based on the height of the P-trap to where you tie in.  What part of the P-trap do you measure from?  How low can you tie into an existing pipe?


texts:
I just got a new furnace in my 800 sq. ft apartment.  Single stage 80% efficiency 40K BTU Coleman.
It seems much louder than my old one.  The burners and the blower.  And when I walk past the (single) air intake in the front room (which happens to be at head level), it seems to kind of hurt my eardrums/put pressure on my head somehow, when it's on.  There is definitely a lot blowing relative to the old one.  After a few minutes of it blowing, however, the "air pressure" sensation in my head goes away. Odd.

The single air intake is basically a couple of feet above the furnace itself, at head level.

A few other random clues: it sends air "down" into the ducts under the foundation, however it seems to leak from the edges of the unit and blow hot air "into" the utility closet.  Also makes a ticking noise and seems to shake wall when blower on (shake it a tiny bit).

I'm also afraid of it being so loud people will have to turn the TV up and down for it.  Most of the sound seems to be coming from "air" noise/volume/pressure.

Any ideas (either on air pressure or noise)?  Larger intake (current is 14x20)?) Would a larger intake allow for better "heat rise" [temperature differential] across the heat exchanger?


texts: Using CEDAR planks to sound proof a home music studio

texts:
I have a finished room in the basement of my house that I want to turn into a music studio. Most of the advice found online suggest to "build a room within a room" and decoupling walls and ceiling. Now, the room is nicely finished with regular sheet rock walls and light fixtures. I would prefer not to tear down and rebuild the room as most online advice suggest.

I was thinking about applying acoustic insulation (like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/54-in-x-240-in-Acoustic-Insulation-Roll-7102-11054/302759769) to the walls already there.

Then install cedar planks - like the ones they use in sauna rooms. on top of that.

My question is: would that be dense enough to prevent the sound to get out of the room?

I will address the acoustics within the room on a separate post.


texts: Wiring a Junction Box: 1 source in, 2 sources out

texts:
I have an existing junction box and currently 1 source from the basement going in, and one source coming out and that goes to a wall switch.

If I want to connect a second wire to come from that junction box, would I just attach all hot and all neutral wires together in the box? In my head it sounds like this wouldn't be a complete loop, but maybe I am just overthinking it.

So one source going into the box and then two wires coming out of it, each going to their own box in the walls below.

Anyone have a diagram for this? Thank you!


texts: Should I be worried about the weight of french drain gravel on my foundation?

texts:
Should I be concerned about the added weight of 3/4" river rock in a french drain 12 inches from my foundation?  If there is already a crack in the foundation and a slight lean, will the weight of the gravel add pressure?  I've seen that river rock displaces weight horizontally better than sediment or other gravel.

My trench is already wider than my 4 inch pipe so I'm thinking of digging the gravel out and putting dirt behind the fabric to narrow the trench and reduce the amount of gravel.

Any thoughts?


texts: I want to install a sub panel in my basement directly below my kitchen.  44 foot run to the main panel. Can I use 6/4 SOOW wire instead of AWG?  This panel will eventually have a transfer switch on it to work with a generator.  It will carry all of my kitchen, ( two freezers, microwave, coffee maker, toaster ) the basement sump pump and my propane furnace.  I intend to use a 60 amp sub panel with 8-10 available circuit breakers.  Also - this feed will be mounted on the face of a support beam that traverses the length of my basement.  What is the code-appropriate way to mount this cable on the face of that beam?  I intend to run this wire myself, then hire an electrician to do the actual connections on both ends.


texts: How to prepare driveway for a pour in a narrow space?

texts:
I'm planning to make a concrete driveway by myself but planning to call a concrete truck for a pour.
Problem is that my driveway is narrow and there is a hill on the right side. So the truck can't just go along the driveway from that side. The houses are built in a staircase style going down in a slight decline.

In my mind, the only possible way the truck can go is from the end to the front. My worry is that he will need to go over the bar reinforcement. I worry this will damage the rebar spacing.

How is this type of concrete pouring done normally if this is the only way for the truck to go?
Will I need to put the rebars in as the truck moves?

What is the minimum width of the concrete driveway in Ohio anyway?


texts: Vibrating PVC exhaust pipe from high efficiency furnace

texts:
We have a two year old house that has this heating season developed a vibration in the exhaust pipe that can be heard on the first floor of the house. It seems to have decreased as the season has progressed.

The exhaust exits the furnace with a 2” pipe has 2-45 bends in the first 2’ then transitions to a 3” pipe. It’s a Lennox furnace and this only occurs during the heat cycle.

Could I cut out a piece the 2” pipe and install a fern on fitting to eliminate the vibration?


texts:
I have an Ecobee 3 and a Keeprite two-stage gas furnace.

The furnace is currently configured to control its own staging system but I'm curious what would be the advantage of reconfiguring to have the Ecobee control the two stage system. Are there any obvious big tradeoffs?

The relevant facts I can think of are:

Keeprite R&D knows more about its manufactured furnace performance profile than Ecobee
Ecobee has sensors across the house and knows about incoming weather systems and upcoming heating requirement changes so it should theoretically be able to do a better job controlling the overall system
I can't find evidence of Ecobee being this smart


texts: How do I replace this switch with a dimmer?

texts:
I'm trying to install a dimmer switch (single pole) in a 4 gang box.  In the current set up, I have two black wires attached to the SAME screw (one of those wires is from the back of the box, while the other wire is coming from the light switch directly beside it (it seems that all the switches have a black wire that is looped from the one beside it).

In addition to the 2 black wires I have an orange wire going directly into the switch, which I have now learned I need to use the end of an extremely small screwdriver to press into the hole to release it.  I'm not sure what to do with the orange wire.

The box is metal, and there's a copper ground wire screwed to the back of the box.  The dimmer switch I want to install has 2 black wires and one green wire. I was going to cap one black wire from the dimmer to one of the blacks from the switch, repeat this step with the other black wire, then take the green wire from the new dimmer and attach it to the green screw.  Is that right? and if so what do I do with the orange wire?


texts: Move water heater to location with smaller diameter pipes

texts:
My current tankless, instantaneous gas water heater is placed in a location where pipes in and out of it are 3/4''.
I was planning to remove it and install an electrical, tanked water heater, in a different location, where a shower used to be. When starting the work, I actually realized that the pipes there were 1/2 ''.
Is that likely an issue in terms of having enough hot water at the other end of the house for showers? The distance between this electrical water heater and the furthest shower would be about 15 meters (49 feet).


texts: How can I run plumbing from house to a nearby new office 1.5m away?

texts:
I am building a new office next to the house; it is about 1.5m away.  I need to run, from the house's upstairs bathroom,  1 hot, 1 cold, and radiator with return (all of which I believe are 28mm to the bathroom).

They need to come down the outside wall (2.5m ish), under the path (1.5m ish) and then back up to the office (0.5m ish).  My problem is making sure they are both insulated for heat lose and frost damage (south of England, -5°C is about the worst).

I was going to go out of the bathroom into a pipe (something like a 110mm waste); in this pipe I was going to use pieces of wood to brace the pipes in the middle of the pipe (think of a large button that would wedge itself in the waste pipe and the water pipes run through the thread holes).

I was going to use some kind of plastic pipe (what is best?).  I was also going to wrap rubber or foam around each pipe, and to top it off, fill the voids of the "waste" pipe with foam chips or beads.

In case of upcoming long nasty periods and the building not being in use, I was going to put stop valves (with stop and "bridging" valves for radiators) in the house bathroom and then draining valves in the office.  In fact, I'm not sure I will ever do this as I do not want to do the  massive bleeding task after, probably easier just to keep on low heat all winter.

Does this sound like a viable idea?  Has anyone done something similar or have another (better) solution?

I enjoy plumbing but I am in no way trained, so…


texts: Would Replacing an Existing 3/4" Water Main Line with 1" Improve Overall Volume/Flow to House (GPM)

texts:
After my own inspection and talking to the utility company I have the following:

The meter (near the road) is 5/8" x 3/4".  From what the water company told me - this is the most commonly installed size service in this area.
There is approximately 180ft of 3/4" PVC and 3/4" PEX coming off the meter to my house where it connects to a 3/4" copper trunk line. (The first 100ft or so is PVC and the rest is PEX that I installed recently to replace a section of galvanized, corroded pipe.)
My hose bibs which are fed from 1/2" branch lines (and before a PRV) measure approximately 5.2 GPM @ 70 PSI (tested with a flow gauge and pressure gauge at the bib w/ no other fixtures in the house being on)

My questions are:

Does 5.2 GPM seem pretty low?  It seems barely adequate to get spray things clean at times.  It barely seems able to feed my pressure washer at times.
Would changing that 180ft main line with 1" improve anything?

I've inquired with the utility about the cost of changing my meter to 1" as well.  That would be pretty costly but not crazy (around $2k).

Thanks in advance for any guidance.


texts: Dryer vent pipes touching copper hot water pipe

texts: I am installing a long clothes dryer vent in the crawl space under my house to replace the old one.  I am using a combination of both flexible metal pipes and rigid stove pipes to try to reduce the friction as much as possible. Unfortunately the length of the pipe is 20 feet and there is really no alternative.  In several spots the pipes almost come in contact with the copper hot water pipe for the house--it is a very tight area and I am doing my best to avoid touching the pipe.  Is is a problem if both the flexible and rigid pipes come into contact with the copper hot water pipe in just a couple of small places?


texts: What size drywall is required for commercial establishments.  1/2" or 5/8"??


texts: Previous owner filled in fireplace shelves with incorrect brick. Can I chisel them out?

texts:
My wife and I recently moved into a ranch house built in 1956.  If you look closely you can see where the previous own filled in what I assume to be two little nook shelves with regular old brick and mortar.  We were initially planning on covering this up with a mirror but I'm wondering how easily I could restore this by chipping out the brick and mortar the idiot put in?  Would it chip out cleanly or would I be left with a mess that would never quite look like it did originally?  Any guidance would be appreciated.

Here's a detail of the PO's handy work:


texts: What is break down of amps on household usages plugin,lights ect

texts: Looking for information on how much amps are used for plug ins,light switches,ect


texts: Which limit switch controls the blower motor on my furnace?

texts: My blower motor isn't shutting off after my heat shuts off, causing it to blow cold air into my house.  I suspect that the fan limit switch is bad, but the furnace has at least four limit switches.  Are these all tied to the blower motor?  I'm not sure which ones I should check for the fan limit switch.  I'm confident it isn't the thermostat as I swapped it out with another one and had the same issue.  It continues to run even after I put the thermostat in the off position.


texts:
Just ran across the idea of using a pole barn for a full time house. We would use it more for a cabin (barn) in the woods but the idea is intriguing. Everything I read says its more affordable but outside of the sure size and heating the barn, what sort of pros/cons come into play with using a pole barn as a full time house.

Additional is steel framing more optimal as opposed to wood?

-Dalton


texts: Is it more efficient to turn my AC unit off periodically vs. keeping it on only while in the room?

texts:
I have an AC unit in my bedroom + workspace. I use its "auto" fan speed and
"energy saver" mode (rather than "cool" or "fan only").  I'm wondering, which strategy is more energy efficient and by roughly how much?

  Strategy 1: When the room temperature exceeds 73 F / 22.8 C, turn it on and set it to 70 F / 21.1 C. When the room reaches that
  temperature, turn the unit off and wait until the temps rise to 73 F
  again and repeat.

  Strategy 2: Same conditions, except keep the unit running as long as I am in the room.

It takes about 20-30 minutes on the average day for temps to rise from 70 F (set) to 73 F (trigger).

Is there a general best practice for this or is it dependent on the unit?


texts: Does anyone recognize this ceiling fan brand?

texts: There are no identifying brand marks on the exterior of the fan. Year 2000 or newer. I suspect the black dome on the canopy might be a sensor for a remote and would like to pick one up but need to figure out the right brand.


texts:
When using my Clamp meter, i notice that it had a range in the upper 90's instead of 120 on a 14 ga - 15 amp circuit breaker. Is that low or is it because i have close to 20 duplex outlets (for now connected to it-planning to change that). Mostly tv and a computer and outlets and lights. Is that common? And if not why am i getting in the high 90's? Or should you always get between 110-120?
Second questions should there be any voltage in traveler wires in a 3 way 14 ga 15 amp circuit connecting two lights?


texts: How to systematically find my HVAC return air intake?

texts:
I am a new owner of an old (1944) house.

I have forced hot air. I can't for the life of me find the air intake. I was told to look for a large grate, about twice the size of all of the other house grates, however none are that large. Moreover, they all seem to be blowing out hot air. There is a vent very close to my heating unit in the basement, but luckily that one also seems to be blowing out air, or that would be really bad (stale basement air as air intake, very poor house circulation).

I had a guy over who used to contract (for a different reason, he was not there to look for this problem), and after a quick look, he suggested during a renovation some prior owners may have drywalled over it.. that sounds like a horrible thing to do.

Is there a way I can systematically find my air intake? At this point I'm going to have to light an incense and stick it near each vent or something. And what if I don't have one?

UPDATE

OK! I did the incense test and have good news and maybe bad news. The good news is that, unless I'm reading the "incense flow" wrong, every room has an output and an input. One vent in each room appears to be blowing hot air out, and one vent in each room appears cold to the touch and incense flows in.

The bad news is that there also appears to be a return vent right in the basement where the furnace is: http://imgur.com/a/5qXCv. Wouldn't that be recycling nasty dirty basement air and then pushing it out into the house?


texts: How to separte door handle without visible screws?

texts: I need to replace the door handle mechanism because it's stuck. In order to do that, I need to take apart the door handles but there are just two holes under each handle. It doesn't seem that the hole has a screw inside. I tried to put screw-driver inside, it looks like nothing moves then I do that. And a metal round thing around the handle doesn't have any holes to release handles also.


texts: Shed floor framing out of square 3/4 inch

texts:
My first time building a shed by myself and it's been a lot of work, since it is on a slope. I got the piers and columns in, had it squared, and put cut plywood in the corners.

I cut all the joists, and I guess exhaustion and rushing, I didn't double check the squareness and I put all the joist hangers on and anchors from the rim joist to the 6x6 posts.. with 16d galvanized nails that are not coming out. Some how it shifted even with the corner braces. Guess plywood was a bad choice for holding square.

It was originally one inch off, but I got it down to 3/4.. knocking it with a 4lb sledge hammer..

What are my options? If I start framing how much will this effect the walls?


texts: Best way to cover basement tiles containing asbestos

texts:
I have a deteriorating tile floor in my basment, and I suspect that the tiles are VAT(Vinyl asbestos tiles). Regardless of the content of the floors, the deteriorating state of the tiles means I want to cover over it. I have heard of various products that can be used to make a self-leveling floor (i.e. self leveling concrete), but I do not have much knowledge of said products nor have I ever used them. I have heard that some of these products cure (harden) very quickly which might pose a challenge as I am trying to DIY an entire basement floor.

The basement itself is approximately 600 sqft. There are some areas which I would like to cordon off prior to putting any sort of product down. For example, I would want to cordon off the sump pump pit. There may be other areas that I am not thinking of which I would not want to cover with any product.

Ultimately, the question is what is the best (or a sufficient) product to use for DIY tile encapsulaion. Also, what is the best DIY strategy for using said product? It is worth noting that I would like for the covering to be level when it is done, in case I want to lay a flooring material over top of the new surface.

Thanks.


texts: Which side of an over-tightened brass NPT joint needs to be replaced?

texts: I have a brass nipple screwed into a brass elbow and the joint is leaking. After half a dozen tries at re-wrapping with teflon tape, I decided to see if I could just tighten the problem away. ~150 foot pounds of torque later, the leak had slowed but not stopped and I am out of leverage. I assume that I have damaged one or both of the components at this point. Is there a way to tell which, before I replace both?


texts:
I have been having a hard time identifying the stem for my kitchen sink. Any input would be appreciated. The How to find a replacement did not help as this stem has 11 points

The broach diameter is 0.375 inches and the height is ~1.2 inches.


texts: Why do I see only 50 volts on my live wires?

texts:
I'm trying install a lamp to my apartment but it didn't light up as I expected. I recently moved in and this is the first time I'm trying to install a lamp here. The spot where I'm trying to install the lamp is just a hole in the ceiling with three wires hanging out: Two brown (live?) and one blue (neutral?). Some Googling revealed to me that the separate live wires can be used to control specific bulbs in a multi-bulb lamp. Nearby there is a switch on the wall with two buttons which I assume is for these wires. So apparently the idea is that current flows from each live wire through the bulbs to the common neutral wire when to buttons are toggled on. One live wire and the neutral were connected in parallel to a connection strip, while the other live wire was connected alone to its own connection strip.

My lamp has a spring-powered connection strip with L and N labeled holes so I simply took one of the brown wires to L and the blue wire to N.

I removed the connection strips and tried to measure the voltage to see if the problem was somewhere else in the circuit, and I noticed that each of the live wires measures around 50-54 volts with respect to the neutral, even though the AC line voltage in my country is 240 volts. Even stranger, I measured this voltage regardless of the positions of the switch buttons! Only when I removed the fuse I got 0 volts.

So I assume the reason why the lamp didn't light up was that the voltage was way too low. Could somebody point what is it that I'm doing wrong, or is there something wrong with the wiring on my apartment?


texts:
I have an Arrow DM10 stand-alone gas fireplace that was built in 1993. It has a working pilot and a new thermopile. It will not light on its own.

After replacing the thermopile with no result, I poked about on Google and found someone that said I should tap the gas manifold. I did and it started right up.

Unfortunately it didn't say WHY this might work. Anyone know what might cause this?


texts: Is Flex Duct Safe To Use In A Crawl Space?

texts:
The home I purchased has a crawlspace below an addition that was put on to the original structure.  The HVAC contractor that did the work ran 2 long runs of flex-duct to the 2 registers in the room of the the crawl space.

Is this acceptable?  Do I need to be concerned about the elements or possibly animals getting into the crawl space and chewing holes in the flex duct?


texts: Dart in the radiator... How do I fix it without replacing the radiator?

texts:
So I was playing darts with my friend, and below the dartboard is a radiator.

Anyway long story short the dart went into the radiator and now water is spraying everywhere out of it. I managed to turn the radiator off with some mole grips (the taps were gone just the metal knobs sticking up) and stop the water flow but I'm not sure how to fix the hole. The hole is about 1mm diameter. The dart went in really deep as well.

This is what the radiator looks like:

How do I fix the hole? I'm in the UK. The radiator is painted as well.

I'm house sitting for a friend so replacing the radiator etc isn't an option.


texts: Screw not fully screwed into drywall anchor

texts:
I used these drywall anchors. They went into the wall just fine and are flush against the wall. However my clothing rack requires 16 screws, and I think I didn't measure and drill perfectly well, so for some of the anchors, the screw didn't go into the very center if the anchor. So now, some screws aren't totally flush and can't be screwed in all the way (when I try with a screwdriver, the turn I did get undid as soon I stop). They're missing a few turns, they're mostly screwed in.
Is this catastrophic? am I just waiting for the rack and everything to fall down?


texts: How can we measure the air quality index of our room?

texts:
My house is situated near a construction site and dust, particulates, etc gather in really quickly. My room is currently set up such that there are two different air filters running continuously around-the-clock.

The Air Quality Index is a number which indicates how healthy or unhealthy the air is. For example, 0 - 50 is considered pretty good, whereas 151 - 200 is considered unhealthy, and 301 - 500 is considered hazardous.

Is there a way for us to measure the Air Quality Index of our room?


texts: How can I rewire a three-wire ceiling fan installation where there is a two-wire set up?

texts: I installed a 3 speed ceiling fan with a dimmable light in the bedroom where a standard 2-wire light fixture used to be. After months of unsatisfied performance of these battery operated wall switches, I would rather have a full functioning wall switch. I have access to the junction box and all wiring for the fixture since the attic is above the ceiling. Is there a way for me to add a 3rd wire or change the wiring from the switch to the fan/light so I can install a 3 wire wall switch?


texts:
I have some plugs in my warehouse that have L15-30 receptacles. Inside the boxes are four wires: Orange, Black, Red, and Green. I would like to swap one to an L21-30 receptacle. It looks like the main difference between the L15 and the L21 is that the L21 has an additional grounding wire. I don't have a neutral wire in the box and the green ground is ran outside of the box. All wiring throughout the warehouse is inside EMT conduit.

Do I need to run a neutral wire or is there another way to accomplish this? Thanks in advance!


texts: Is a 775 Motor Powerful Enough For a DIY Water Pump

texts:
I tried making a water pump with what I think is a 550 motor (I can't identify it by the model number), but failed to create enough suction. The top pictures show the diy water pump parts from the failed attempt. The cylinder houses the motor and the motor shaft goes through the turbine. Water is sucked in through the lid of the cylinder (top lid with hose attached) and water exits through a hole in the cylinder. Unfortunately, the cylinder only got a little moist. I have seen 550 motors act as water pumps online, but I'm willing to upgrade to a more powerful DC motor (775 motor?).

Since I'm trying to do my due diligence this time before ordering a motor, I'd appreciate any feedback on the type of motor I need. I'd like to use it to make a diy water pump with water entering from a hose of 50 to 100 feet. I don't need a lot of water pressure, just want to move water from inside a barrel to the toilet. Any idea if this is possible using a diy 12 Volt pump?

diy water pump parts550 motor?


texts: Existing 40 amp breaker with a 50 amp range spec?

texts:
I have a 40 amp breaker for the range receptacle, but the new range specifies a 50 amp circuit.

Can I just have a 50 amp breaker installed or will it require rewiring?


texts: Choosing a soundproof apartment - how wall and ceiling material predicts sound levels

texts:
Looking at different flats for a new home I would like to determine how much noise I would get from neighbours based on the brief visits to see the candidates.

How could I measure that practically?

Would knowing the wall materials help for instance as I have no idea whether say stone or wood walls would be better at insulating noise or not?


texts: 3" Electrical box has diagonal mounting holes. Need horizontal. Any adapters?

texts: I have a couple of bathroom light fixtures above the mirrors. They are mounted to 3" boxes with diagonal mounting screws in opposing corners of the box. My light fixtures have the mounting holes horizontal. Are there adapters for this? Again, the boxes are old 3" electrical boxes with holes 2.75" apart.


texts: Should I be worried that the anchor bolts are not centered on the sill plate?

texts:
I am in the process of having my first home built and have been trying to learn as much as I can along the way.

Today I visited the home site and saw that the builder installed the sill plates on the foundation. There are two areas that appear slightly off to me and due to my limited knowledge, I do not know if I should be concerned about these areas and bother the builder about it.

The sill plates appear to be aligned correctly with the anchor bolts centered everywhere except for the wall where my garage would be. As you can see the bolt is not centered.

There is also a gap here between the sill plates on two walls of the garage

Should I be concerned about any of this?


texts: Is white paint the same color regardless of the company?

texts:
I'm painting and have run out of the particular white paint I was using. I have some leftover white from a different room. Is there a way to tell if the white will be the same and match?

Here are the two versions

Ace Premium Royal Interior Wall + Trim paint Satin Acrylic Latex Enamel 182A100 High Hiding White
Clark + Kensington Paint + Primer in One Flat Enamel 126S310 Ultra White (Tint Base)Ace


texts: How do I remove plastic bag print from outside surface of washing machine?

texts:
I bought new sheets for my son, and I put the Target plastic bag, with heavy sheets in it, on top of the washer for the sheets to be washed. This morning I picked up the bag, and I've got red bullseyes on my white washing machine! How the print won't come off this surface easily is amazing, but per my Google search, this isn't out of the ordinary when you combine walls and furniture (and apparently appliances) with printed plastic bags. Who knows what causes it in each case, though. I checked the off-white carpet where this bag sat prior to being placed on the washer, and it's clean. I'm guessing I had liquid residue on my washing machine (probably from spraying stain remover on 1/4 of the clothes that get washed) that coaxed the print off the bag.

Windex did not work. Magic Eraser did not work. Baking soda did not work. Goo Gone did not work. Multi-purpose cleaner (generic 409) did not work.

I am left with light pink bullseyes :(

I also have Murphy's Oil Soap (which I have as a kind-of-solution for getting dry erase marker out of clothes, long story, only use on white fabric!) but have not tried it because I only have a few drops left. If I need to buy more, so be it. Does anyone have any thoughts on it?

Before I turn my laundry room into a deli, does anyone know what the alleged magic of mayo is? I see a lot of people suggesting using it both in this forum and elsewhere.

Thank you!


texts:
I have been going through new houses under construction in my area to learn about Drain, Waste, and Venting (DWV). I found this configuration (reference image below) and it does not look to be correct. A short section looks like a wet vent for the Clothes Washer.

Is this permissible in the Plumbing Code?

Will there be problems with this type of configuration?

Would the water in the Clothes Washer Trap be syphoned out when the Utility Sink is being used?

Should a Sanitary Tee, like this one, be used instead (reference image below)?

What other configuration would have been acceptable?

Revised Feb 2, 2021 @ 3:05 PM: Found this information at bfdrona.com:
Install The Sink Drain and Vent lines


texts: How do I connect a switch and receptacle in the same box?

texts: I have extended wire at the end of an existing circuit. I’m installing a 2-gang box with a switch and a receptacle. I want one of the outlets to always be hot, and the other to only be hot when the switch is on. How do I do this?


texts: Can I use 16ga wire to complete a 150W landscape lighting circuit?

texts:
I am installing some landscape lighting. The kit came with 14 AWG wire. I have 10 lights at 11 watts apiece and a 150 Watt power pack. I need a few extra feet of wire and have some 16 AWG laying around.

Is it OK to mix the 2 sizes?


texts: tempstar furnace the inducer motor runs all the time

texts: my inducer motor runs all the time.  what can be wrong  I have replaced the thermostat and the controll board and it still does it.


texts: How much weight will 1/8" plywood sustain for compression?

texts: Plywood would be laying horizontally and be cut 8' x 8". Assuming fairly uniform load, with plates the full top and bottom length of it, is there a compression at which the plywood will fail? I'm assuming it would split or the glue would give at some point?  But is this above 50,000 lb?


texts:
We moved into a house a couple of years ago and found that one of the sockets, at the back of the house, simply didn't work.  It wasn't too much of a problem as I ran a power supply from a nearby socket into the room and ran the washing machine from this.

I've revisted this socket as I want to put both my washer and drier in the same room.

After examining the socket using a mains tester, I found that the live supply was exactly that - live; the screwdriver lit up as expected. I tested further by plugging my drill charger unit into the socket, but this did not work (though it did work fine in another socket). Strangely, however, when testing the neutral wire inside the socket, the mains tester lit up as it should do, proving that there was a circuit being formed with the device. The socket is clean; there's no apparent damage to it, and it does not trip the consumer unit.

The socket, as stated, is located to the back of the house and is spurred from a live socket in the kitchen.  At the time of examination, it did not have an earth cable from the switch to the casing, but that's probably not necessary as the earthing cable from the spur was already in place (belt and braces).

Is this a sign of a faulty switch or poor wiring involved in the spur?


texts: Should my stove's spark plugs all fire at once?

texts:
I bought a second hand Bosch gas cooktop/stove and when I test its igniter - without having connected it to a gas supply, it only seem to spark for a single burner. If I move its igniter module wires around I can confirm that they all can spark. So I presumed this was an igniter module issue and replaced it with a brand new one, but it still does the same thing.

What do you think is the problem? Is it possible that this cooktop does this by default?


texts: We have a ranch home with baseboard heat, 2 zones work 2 zones dont

texts: We have 4 zones and 4 thermostats with baseboard heat in our ranch home.. 2 zones are working, and 2 zones are cold.  What would cause this?


texts: Gas heater not turn on, but fan-only still works when switched on from thermostat

texts: my up-level heating system (gas heater) stopped working if the thermostat is at auto; fan can be on without warm air if switch the thermostat to ON from Aotu.  Is this a thermostat problem or heat pump?


texts: We just moved to a new home, one of the room has white wallpaper, without textures, which was painted with water based painting, so it was easy to repaint. The other rooms also have white wallpapers but the painting is not water based. It looks as oil based paint. Is it a good idea to repaint these wallpapers? If yes, what kind of paint do we need to use - (oil based paint and paint thinner)? Is it a good idea to remove the wallpapers and use water based paint?


texts:
Living in the northern side of Georgia, it's somewhat difficult to find a flat spot to build on so I have some general questions about building a shed on a slope like this or like that -- specifically how many posts will I need?

My initial plans are for a basic 12x10 (biggest allowed w/o a permit) and probably a small deck (wood pile and such) and there's tons of info on how to do those ... but I can't seem to find how many posts I will need.

I won't be storing a lawn tractor in there but I do have a number of gas powered tools (chipper/shredder, tiller, etc) so is there some kind of formula or "rule" that I should follow?


texts: I have a new house with metal roof no plywood with Ridge vent and soffit venting and has cathedral ceiling. My electricians vented the bathrooms high up into the attic, is that ok?


texts: Can I use my existing well/pump to run water to detached garage?

texts:
We have a detached garage that we want to convert to living space/in law quarters, but there is currently no water and we are on a well.

Would I need a second well for the garage?  Or is it possible to use my existing well and well pump and run lines to the garage?

If yes, which would be more efficient or cost effective?

Thanks!


texts: How do I hook up a washing machine drain line to this box?

texts:
I had a plumber come out and install a drain line and hook up the supply water for a washing machine. This is the state he left the project:

How am I supposed to hook up the waste line? Do I need to drill out that center hole?


texts: What is the best way to demolish a little brick wall?

texts:
Since this is a small wall, I do not wish to buy any expensive tools.

seems they used some mortar. I failed when trying to use nothing but a small (nail) hammer. Any tricks?

alt text http://is7.itookthisonmyphone.com/m/00140/fe5e15de-72ab-4553-9f81-ba9663b8af62/f8876fc8-345e-416b-b982-85284574a505_568x426r0.jpg


texts: Replace "powered" dimmer switch for old (1950s) house

texts:
We have an old dimmer switch, single pole, the type with an indicator light internally. It has two black wires, and the green wire is cut off.  The plastic box it's connected to has only two wires, one black, one white.  They are obviously 120 volts, since the switch has a light in it, and I measured it with a circuit tester.  It seems to be described as "electro-mechanical".  The part is a Leviton catalog No. 6631, but the instructions I see for these seem to be different than this device, and show the conventional hookup with 2 pairs of wires.

Do I need a special dimmer switch?  The one I bought wants two sets of black/white wires, and connects to the black ones, with the white ones shorted.

Or do I need to rewire the whole mess?

Edit
I think I might need to rewire if I want anything other than a crappy dimmer; I can't even use a simple switch, because as soon as I turn it on, it might be a short from hot to neutral black to white).

I have no idea how it's connected, actually.  Perhaps I'm just being fooled by measuring stray voltage where there is no real current?

I hope there's someone out there who understands electricity enough to explain it.


texts: Why is my stove is no longer receiving 240V of power?

texts:
I have a general understanding of electrical and some know how, but I moved into a place at the beginning of 2021 and 3 days ago I come home and try to preheat the oven and nothing. I tried the broil setting and it wouldn't work either. So I figured I would boil some water to cook pasta if the oven wasn't cooperating, but no stovetop elements would work.
I had power because the clock on the display still worked and the oven light turned on. It dawned on me that those are the 240v functions of the appliance and that the things that worked only ran on 120v. Thinking that 1 pole of my 2 pole 40amp breaker was no good I checked my breaker panel and found it was a CEB panel and all the breakers were Sylvania make, the 40 amp one specifically was a 240QBH so I got a new 240QBH breaker made by Eaton (looks exactly the same and has the same functionality bolt on 2 pole 40 amp).

I replaced the breaker and was hopinh that was that, but my problem was persistent. Still no 240v functions on my stove/oven. So I tried to troubleshoot the problem with a multimeter starting at the back of my appliance and found that indeed it had 120v on each leg to neutral or ground but bothe legs together gave me a 0v reading.

I did the same to the receptacle and replaced it at the same time with a new one also checking the wiring to it and same as what I saw on the appliance, so no problem there. Finally I went back down to my breaker panel and checked each hot to the neutral panel and same thing there 120v each hot but when I put my leads on both hots coming into my breaker 0V reading.

I changed it back to the old breaker while I was there,  seeing as it was $85 I had just unnecessarily spent and would like that money back and it obviously isn't a bad pole in the Sylvania QBH240. So I read some other Q&A postings in here and know that you would say that both hots are most likely on same leg, How would this occur all of a sudden and how can I fix it now?... Or troubleshoot it further? I seem to be at my wits end but cannot afford outsourcing it and I need to be able to cook. Any advice is appreciated.

[


texts:
I have 110 year old house.  The basement concrete floor was poured on the dirt and the sump well was an integral part of the floor. Thus the only way water got into the sump was across the floor. I just dug a 1' deep french drain along two inside walls and a much deeper sump well.  I'm getting ready to run pipes, tie them into the sump basin, etc.

The sump basin I bought is a lightweight, black corrugated plastic and I'm trying to figure out how to install it.  My questions are:

Does the basin need holes? Seems like it should have holes to accept
water down at 24" rather than wait until the water table reaches the
1' french drain
Do I place anything below the basin or inside it to support the pump
(washed stone, etc)
How do I pick an adequate pump? (there are 50-100 models on Home
depot's site)


texts:
enter image description here

While amateur me was trying to install vinyl sheet I cut into wood, skirting board and cement wall.

How can I avoid this?  I thought maybe lightly mark the vinyl I want to cut, pull the sheet up then cut it.  Is this the way pros would do it or what am I doing wrong?


texts: How do I avoid breaking the screwhead with Impact Driver

texts:
I am a total newbie on DIY woodcraft. I am trying to drill a screw in the wood using impact driver but the screw head breaks up. Do i need to put a hole on the wood first? What I do is directly use my impact driver to drill the screw with the screw.

Thanks


texts:
I moved into an apartment, and found the toilet seat is yellow, which I didn't notice before moving in.

The landlord said the toilet seat turned yellow because of the sunshine, and had been cleaned.

Is what she said true?

What can I do about it?

Thanks.


texts: Plumbing - does it matter where I stop cold and hot water pipes?

texts: Im putting in a new sink in my bathroom, and in doing that Im moving the sink from one side of the bathroom to the other.  Ive got the pipes on the new side all ready for the new sink.  Im also putting a cap on the end of the old sink pipes.  Its just occurred to me that if I just cap the ends just under the floorboards where the old sink used to be, that there will be a metre or two of pipes that have water in, but going nowhere.  Does this matter?  Is it possible for the water to become stagnant perhaps, or to affect the water supply in any way?  Should I try to cap the pipe as close to the T junction (further away under other floorboards) or does it not matter at all?  It would save me some time not to pull up other floorboards, but I thought I should ask before I leave a few metres of both hot and cold pipes 'live' but going nowhere.  Thanks for any help on this.


texts: How do I cover up small holes in plaster ceiling?

texts:
I accidentally punched these on the ceiling while moving stuff around. They're around half a centimeter in diameter, and the ceiling seems to be plaster.

How can I mask/cover these up the most subtly?


texts:
So I am finally tired of walking through puddles to get to my garage. I am doing research to find out the best way to deal with my backyard flooding problem. I am in a townhouse with a small backyard that runs to my detached garage and it floods on heavy rains. I have attached some images of the issue and the yard. As you can see it has a slope from the house to the garage and a low spot that collect all the water.

I am looking at the best simple options I can do myself to fix the issue. Would regrading the slop and low spot fix the issue? or do I need to do some sort of french drainage? I dont really see a great place to run the drainage since it either goes to the garage or the edge of the fenced yard into others.

Ideally I am thinking of redoing the backyard in some sort of AstroTurf, would using dirt or pebbles to grade then laying over it with astro turf work?


texts:
We would like to put a Gambrel Roof on a 32 x 32 log cabin we're building but I don't know the formula or how to build the Gambrel roof. Please help

We're building this cabin ourselves and love the gambrel roof style.  How do we build the roof exactly?  What angles, how do we lay it out.  I have 6 x 6 rough lumber, 16 foot long.


texts: Do I have emergency heat? Why is my compressor making crazy noises?

texts:
We have hit record low temps. High temps only reaching 17 for several days. I have recently installed a nest thermostat, about a month prior to the cold snap, and everything is working fine. I noticed the other day the outside compressor making a very loud noise, like a huge air compressor/ jackhammer. I turned off the heat pump as quickly as I could. I sent the video to the hvac guy and he said to turn it to emergency heat. There is no setting for emergency heat only aux heat.Could it be the temp outside is just too cold? Could the nest thermostat cause the sound?
Here is a picture of how the previous thermostat was wired.

here is a pic of how the nest is wired.


texts:
We have a house that was built in 1937 in Toronto. It is a double brick design. On one of the outside walls, I can see what appears to be a single-brick-sized vent and I don't know what its function is.

At first I thought it may be an air brick but after further investigation, I found that there is what looks like a cleanout on the inside wall in the same place as the vent is on the outside wall.  Additionally, there seems to be a 1" pipe that runs down to the basement from the vent The pipe is capped in the basement. The previous owner said he capped it because water was coming into the basement via this pipe.  I also know that there was a washer and dryer in the same area in the basement in this location previously.

Does anyone know what this vent, cleanout, and pipe may be for? It seems too small a diameter for a dryer vent.

EDIT: Brother suggested it may be a vent for an old oil tank. Possible?

EDIT: Added annotated image.

EDIT:

Added individual photos.

Cheers!


texts: Mount ceiling fan without electrical box

texts: I went to replace a ceiling fan on a cathedral ceiling in my house yesterday, and upon removing the old fan I noticed that there is no electrical box where the fan was mounted. The fan was hung from a ceiling joist with romex running to the location, and the wiring was done underneath the fan's mounting bracket and canopy cover. It looks like the replacement fan would be wired in the same area, so does it matter if there's no electrical box under the drywall? If so, why?


texts: How to diagnose an electrified refrigerator frame?

texts:
Recently (or, perhaps, I recently noticed) my garage fridge started shocking me if I touch it in the wrong place. (A sampling of "wrong" places: the door hinge, a spot on the other corner where the paint is worn off)

The shock is quite severe, definitely not a static discharge.

I bought an outlet tester, which tells me that the outlet that the refrigerator is   plugged into has an open ground.  Is this enough to make the fridge shock me?  I have checked for frayed or damaged wires inside the fridge and didn't find anything.

EDIT: More info: The fridge is currently plugged in to a surge protector, which is plugged in to a plug-in type GFCI, which is plugged into the ungrounded outlet.

EDIT 2: I have since fixed this problem by grounding the outlet in question.  I don't know whether this masks a legitimate problem with the refrigerator, or if this was the actual solution, but the bottom line is that it not longer shocks me when I touch it.  Thank you everyone for all of your help!


texts: What size aluminum ser do I need for 100 amp sub panel 10 feet away from 200 amp main?

texts: What size aluminum ser do I need to feed 100 amp subpanel? Ten feet from main panel.


texts: How should I store my new Torx screwdriver set?

texts:
I recently bought a 12-piece Wifa Torx screwdriver set, but am not sure how to store it. At first I thought of making a case, but that could be a lot of work and it would have to be deep, like 16 inches, so it could not fit onto a typical 11" shelf.

Another idea is to put them on wall in one of my work areas using terry clips, maybe, but I am not sure how well they will fit into the Terry clips. The screw drivers are a wide variety of sizes so I might need many different sizes of Terry clips if I did this.

The same sizing problem affects other solutions like canvas rollups. Also a rollup with 12 screwdrivers in it will be really fat.

Open to suggestions.


texts: Metal clad (MC) cable: cut or rearrange it? Plus other questions on the options to install it

texts:
I need 6 feet of metal clad (MC) cable. The stores only sell 25. Is it possible to buy only what I need?

If not, may I just hang the extra wire, or I must cut it to the length I need?

The only option to secure a MC cable is using metal brackets? Or I can put it in a raceway? The raceway in this case must be metal or can be a plastic raceway?

If I cut, must I use an anti-short brush or it is allowed to leave it without?

If I must use an anti-short, does these usually come with the packaged cable (found in home improvement stores) or must bought separately?

If bought separately, what would be the correct size for a MC cable 12/3?

Thank you for helping!


texts: Can I use solvent based paint on waterborne primer?

texts:
I have some solvent based paint left (Sikkens Rubbol AZ), but the wood panel I want to paint with had been prepared with a waterborne primer (Sikkens Rubbol Primer BL). It doesn't have to last forever, and it's only for indoor use.

Are there any issues with using a solvent based paint on a waterborne primer?


texts: What would cause the water to stop when I turn a faucet to hot?

texts: When I turn the faucet to hot, the water stops running. Valves have been checked and I have hot water everywhere else.


texts:
On the left is a "tongue" (Flange) of the tub that sticks out and on the right is greenboard. It seems to be about a 5/8" gap between the two and I would like to set tile here.
Can I just use thinset mortar for that big of a gap?
Or
Do I need to get concrete backer and cut it to fit that gap?


texts: Can I use a drive-in latch without its collar?

texts:
I am trying to replace my interior door knobs and encountering one obstacle after another. The latest is that my doors are prepared for drive-in latches, and I stupidly assumed they were "standard", but in fact they appear to have 7/8" latch bores rather than the standard 1". The drive-in latch I purchased DOES fit if I don't put the collar on; is that crazy? A recipe for disaster?
Help :(


texts: Baseboard heater thermostat doesn't shut off the heat

texts:
My living room is heated by two electric baseboard heaters controlled by a single thermostat.  Earlier this week, I noticed that the room was much warmer than it should be, and figured that the thermostat had gotten stuck again*.  After turning the dial failed to produce the "click" of the switch turning off, and dialing the temperature all the way down didn't cool the room, I assumed the thermostat had failed and replaced it.  However, the new thermostat shows what appears to be the same behavior: when the thermostat turns off, the heaters don't turn all the way off.

Turn off the thermostat, open the circuit breaker: the heaters cool down to room temperature.
Close the circuit breaker: the heaters stay at room temperature.
Set the thermostat to 70F: heaters warm to around 200-250F.
Room reaches 70F: thermostat turns off (I can hear the click), one of the heaters cools to around 110F while the other cools to around 160F.
Turn the dial all the way down to "off": heaters stay the same temperature.

Both the old thermostat and the new one are simple bimetallic-strip switches.  I tested the old one with a multimeter, and it switches between infinite resistance when off, and zero resistance when on.

Any idea what's going on, and how I could troubleshoot/fix it?

* The switch in the old thermostat occasionally got stuck, not turning off until much warmer than the setpoint.


texts: Does oil-based polyurethane have any residual toxicity past setting?

texts:
Oil-based polyurethane reportedly has some toxicity during application, but it is easier to apply and provides a superior finish compared to water-based polyurethane.

This means that while I may get away with not using a mask while applying a water-based polyurethane, I should never think of applying oil-based polyurethane unless I'm properly (NIOHS) masked. Whether I'm applying one or the other, there should be ample air circulation.

My question is: Does oil-based polyurethane have any toxicity once it has set? If a bedroom remains vacant for one week with the windows open for the week, is there any subsequent risk from inhaling the vapors, especially during long winters when the heating system will just circulate the same air?


texts: Term for hinge that allows trapdoor to rise and move aside while remaining near-level

texts:
What terms describe / can be used to locate a hinge that allows a trapdoor to rise and move aside while remaining near-level?
I have a project where a cantilevered* shelf of 3/4 inch plywood will need to be able to simultaneously rise and move aside while remaining near-level.
The maximum design load for the shelf is 30 pounds + the plywood.
[*] “Cantilevered” in this sense means it is supported on one end by the hinges I’m attempting to describe, and that the hinges either mount to plywood adjacent to the closed (lowered) shelf position like an “—“, or mount to a ~60 degree sloped mount point below the shelf area like the stem of a “T”.
What is the name of this type of hinge so that I can locate and purchase a set?

I’m looking for a hinge type that would put the floating section of the table below off to the side as a “leaf” (where the closed position is the same level as the tabletop) then lift over the existing “tabletop” into roughly the position shown.

Searching for “Folding coffee table hinge” got me to a class of product described as “lift up top table mechanism.”
The difference is:

A “- -“ shape seems to be required unless there is a “ T “ shaped hinge that allows the level-ish-rise path. The only level-ish hinges I’ve found form a “z” shape when fully closed instead.
The form factor I’m looking for would fold flat so that the lift-able portion and stationary mount point are in the same plane.

I have checked with my local home centers. While a few employees recalled having seen or heard of a hinge that moves as needed, they all reported being unaware of anyone carrying such a product and suggested I look online.
Unfortunately, they also could not remember the words to describe one in order to search and order online.
Surely such hinges exist?


texts: How can I tell if my bathroom vents are connected?

texts:
I've lived in this house for 20 years. The bathrooms (3) all have switches for fans, but the two upstairs ones do nothing when you flip the switch. Recently, while doing other work, we discovered that there are fans in place and a wire just sitting there not plugged in. On plugging each of them in, we discovered that when you flip the wall switch, you hear a fan sound and it appears to be working.

So why weren't they plugged in? Why did the previous people disconnect them? There are vents in the outside walls in roughly the right places, but perhaps the disconnected fan units in the bathrooms are not connected by any kind of venting or ducting to those outside vents. How can we tell? Is there something we could release into the air in the bathroom and watch for outside? If we go up into the attic crawlspace, what should we look for? If they aren't ducted, what are the consequences of using them - say in a -20C winter when someone is having a hot shower?


texts: Where is clicking noise coming from in kitchen

texts: We have an intermittent click somewhere in the kitchen. We are not sure if it is coming from an appliance or from a possible electrical problem. All appliances are electric and 2 Years old. The sound is a quick click. Then maybe a few minutes later another click. Then maybe 2 hours later another click. It happens when appliances are in use or not in use. Breakers are not tripped. We thought maybe the stove only because we have replaced the light in the oven 3 times in 2 years. I also have a scratch/crack on one of the smooth top burners. And it seems to happen maybe?? after stove or oven have been used. Don't know whether to call an electrician or appliance repair person. We also replaced the 2 gfci in the kitchen.


texts:
I have an A/C condensation drain line that's blocked, and I'm having trouble using a snake to get to the blockage. The pipe is 3/4" PVC with many 90 degree elbows.

I tried using a regular drain snake (1/4") but I can't get it past one of the 90 degree elbows (and there are several more). I did see this post about replacing the elbows with more friendly corners, but there are a couple elbows that would require opening a wall to access.

Am I using my snake incorrectly? Is there a better way to clear the line?


texts: How can I finish and seal an interior exposed brick wall?

texts:
I have exposed a 100+ yr old brick wall inside, tuckpointed, cleaned with cup brushes on a grinder, and Sureklean 600.  I don't have a picture right now but it looks beautiful.

Two questions:

I want to finish the wall with polyurethane or something mildly shiny but definitely not too much.  What is the best coating to use?
After using Sureklean, what is the purpose of neutralizing?  The instruction on the jug say neutralize with water + baking soda for indoor but not outdoor application.


texts: Leaky 1/2” NPT valve with strange notches. Could they be the issue?

texts: I have tried 3 wraps of tape and six. Still leaking. Could the problem be these notches? What are they for? They are to perfect looking to be a flaw, right?


texts: Why are many shower hoses "explosion proof"?

texts:
I noticed that many shower hoses are advertised as "explosion proof". Since I have never seen a shower head with a tap on it, I'd think the hose has to withstand only a fraction of the pressure that the regular plumbing would be required to withstand. Off course it has to be allot more flexible, but "explosion proof" seems to me quite an exaggeration.

Even if a shower head clogs up to the extent that the pipe would burst, it would not be called an explosion would it? My guess is that this is a marketing thing that has been copied by different brands and merely means that the pipe will not bust in the way a balloon would.

Is there any rational reason or circumstance where one should prefer an "explosion proof" hose instead of one that has no mention on the package of being "explosion proof"?


texts: Blind stop for replacement window in rough opening

texts:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/American-Craftsman-27-75-in-x-53-25-in-70-Series-Pro-Double-Hung-Vinyl-Window-2854786/204814587

I am following the guide at above link. This is for replacement windows from home depot. It mentions if there is no blind stop I will have to rebuild it.
Is this absolutely neccessary? What is its purpose, and what is a good resource for rebuilding it?
I currently just have a rough opening (down to studs), and I am not sure what I may need other than the replacement window.

If I purchased the new construction window, which is nailed from the outside, would this have the stop as a part of the window?

Photos of the opening

Exterior:

Interior:


texts: How to efficiently clean bathroom's toilet and tiles, so the dirt/urine from one area doesn't soil the other?

texts:
I've recently started to live on my own (with some roommates), and I'm big on cleanliness, and cleaning the bathroom is a nightmare.  I start with the counter top and bathtub next, both go well enough, but it's the toilet bowl that is a nightmare because it's not self contained like the tub.  Every time I pour a bit of water on the toilet bowl (the sides), it naturally pours down on the tile.  That's really urine water going down to the tiles.  Solution?  I use bit of detergent on more urine soaked spots and use a cloth to run with just couple of drops of water, and only then pour some more water, but still, that would still contain some urine mixed with water.

Same problem with tiles.  As you know, guys rarely get their pee in the toilet bowl (I guess I'm the exception) so the tiles are the same story.  Pouring water just spreads the filth.  I end up using gloves and going through a lot of pieces of cloth to do the job.

I know I'm being a bit OCD, so I appreciate sensitive replies and constructive solutions, so I can find a compromise between excellent time-consuming cleanliness and efficient use of time and resources.  Just to let you know, I use gloves, Tide detergent, and some pieces of cloths, that's all.

Much appreciated.


texts: I think I have a section of frozen PEX inside an exterior wall. What should I do?

texts:
The sink in our main floor bathroom, which has an exterior facing wall, seems to have a frozen hot water pipe. The cold water flows freely and toilet is fine, but hot water seems to be frozen, which I guess isn't a shock given it's supposed to be a high of 2 degrees out today.

From what I've been reading it seems like I shouldn't be super worried about the Pex at least short term, but I'd still like to get it thawed so I can use hot water in the bathroom sink.

ANy suggestions? Should I be more worried about the frozen Pex?


texts:
Generally speaking, what's an appropriate gap to leave between the door jamb and the stud?
In my particular situation, neither wall is plumb. On the left, I adjusted for it with some padding that you can see in three places. With that adjustment, the current rough opening is 24 1/8" at the bottom and 25" at the top. What should be the total width (outer-to-outer dimension) of the door jambs. I can afford to make it 24 1/8" wide, but would making it 24", and giving myself and 1/8" gap at the bottom be better?


texts: How can I extend existing vinyl siding downward to cover top of concrete foundation?

texts: Our new-to-us 1930's home has vinyl siding, but the bottom row of the siding doesn't extend down far enough (see photo). There isn't a starter strip installed that I can find anywhere, either. It looks like the house had some kind of yellow cement board material installed over wood, originally, and then vinyl siding was installed over that about 20 years ago according to the neighbors. The wood in the photos sticks out about 1" away from the house. This isn't attractive, and more importantly, that wood is constantly getting wet from rain running down the siding. So whatever I put there would need to minimally extend down another inch or so, and preferably wrap around the exposed wood to rest against the concrete foundation. Right? The siding is sun-exposed (but in good shape otherwise) so I'm sure that I won't find an exact color match. Perhaps some kind of metal flashing is called for here? We'd like it to look better and to better protect our house. By the way, I just repaired, scraped, and painted the concrete foundation to a similar color as shown in the photo. Thanks for all of your help everyone.


texts: I'm looking at bearings for my washing machine. Originally there were 2Z. Just wondering if it would help if choose 2RS instead of 2Z in case when axle seal fails.


texts: Furnace fan operates only when heating is on

texts:
I don't have AC unit at my house, and summer heat is really bad when I sleep at night in my bedroom upstairs. Since I don't have AC, I think manually setting the fan "on" while I sleep will at least circulate hot air in the upstairs and cold air in the basement to cool off overall temperature of the house.
My problem is, my furnace blower fan only runs while heating is on. Whether I set the fan switch to "on" or "auto" on my thermostat, it only runs while furnace is activated as if that fan switch doesn't exists.
From thermostat (battery powered) to furnace control board, W - W, RH - R, G - G wiring is connected. On either side of the wiring, fan turns on when I connect jumper cable between R and G, but I don't want to leave it like that. It seems too hacky and I would like to control when to turn on/off the fan.
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot the problem at this point, any guidance would be appreciated.
Thermostat brand is White-Rodgers and furnace is Carrier 58GFA086-14
Thanks


texts: 8 way splitter degrades internet signal over time

texts:
I have a cable TV plus Internet coming into the house and into an 8-way splitter (CE Tech Home Command Center).  From this splitter I have coax going to the cable modem plus 3 TV's.  When I have my cable provider refresh my signal everything works fine for about two months.  Then the interet gets gradually slower, and I have to have a signal refresh again.  When I take the splitter out, the internet is back to full strength.

My question is how can the splitter gradually degrade the signal?  It is just physical coax connections, no amplification or other electronics.  I don't see how it can work on day 1 and gradually get slower.

Also, I could split the cable from outside, connect one to the modem and the other to the command center for the 3 TVs.  Or I could buy a signal amplifier and boost the signal before it gets to the command center.  Any recommendations on this?


texts: Power outlet inside a kitchen island. How do I protect the back?

texts:
My kitchen island has a wire for power. Surprisingly, nothing is connected to it so I'm going to install a power outlet.

I've replaced power outlets for walls before and generally the rear where you stick the wires in are exposed (because it's inside the wall).

However, this one will be inside the cabinet. I don't want anyone to be able to accidentally touch the back of the power outlet.

Is there anything I can buy that'll cover the back?


texts:
I'm getting a plumber to put in a toilet in a new location. He will need to run water pipes etc. So I assume the drywall has to come off in the area where pipes will go. However before the toilet is connected permanently, the drywall needs to be replaced/repaired.
I wonder if there is a smarter way of doing things than breaking/fixing drywall on the spot. Perhaps I could cut out a piece of the drywall in advance and replace with plywood on hinges to make a "door"? The edge would need to be covered with some sort of a trim.
The new location is on the other side of the wall from the current location, only a meter away.


texts: Unexplained drilling/vibrating/sounds like cell phone sound in wall!

texts: my family is at their wits end. Every single Monday, Thurs and Fri morning between 6am-7:30am we hear from the upstairs bedroom wall/ceiling a vibrating or drilling sound that lasts like 2-5 seconds. It also sounds like a cell phone vibrating on a glass table. We live in a semi and asked our neighbours and they don't hear it and don't have an alarm. I think it's an alarm because it happens at perfect times like 6:15, 7:30. but we don't hear it ANY other time. It's driving us crazy and waking all of us up every morning it happens. Please help me, what is this horrible sound?


texts: How do I get out the remnants of a rake handle using a drill?

texts:
A few days ago, my wooden rake handle broke during use, so I grumbled about it, went to the hardware store a few days later, bought a new handle, and set about installing it.
Unfortunately, I can't seem to get to even get started because the remnants of the old handle are still wedged firmly in place. I tried to check a few Youtube videos on this, but they're either focused on repairing the broken handle or skip right over how to get out the remnants.
The second video I linked mentioned that I might need to use a chisel or a drill to get out the remnants, but didn't provide any details on how to do so and more or less suggest it was going to be a big pain in the neck.
For reference, these are relevant details about the rake:

Plastic frame;
Cause of the brake was probably too much exposure, so the portion that was outside was easy to break, but what's inside the frame is really wedged in there;
I've been digging at it with a couple screwdrivers and pulling pieces using my pliers, but haven't had a means to really pull out massive pieces.

I have been considering drilling, but I don't want to mess up my bits nor the frame. Specific concerns about drilling I have are heat related as well as not being able to tell when I'm hitting wood versus plastic. Can anyone provide some clarifying guidance on if this is a good idea or issues that might come up?
Below are some pictures for reference, note that I've already removed the screw that typically holds it in place:


texts: Is it safe to store an extension cord outside under a carport?

texts:
I have a 25 foot 16/3 extension cord.  The instructions say it should not be stored outside, but it doesn't say why.  I would like to store it out in the open under my carport.  It would not get hit with rain or much direct sun, but it would be exposed to wind.  It would not be left plugged in (although incidentally I don't understand why this also isn't allowed).

Is this safe, and what is the actual reason for preferring to store it inside?


texts: Drill won’t go through vanity to install knobs

texts: I’ve tried two different drill bits but they just won’t go through the vanity so I can add knobs. Any idea why it won’t work?


texts: How do you repair or replace an ice maker in a Samsung RF23HCEDBBC Refrigerator?

texts:
I have a Samsung RF23HCEDBBC that I bought a little over a year ago. All of the sudden, it stopped making ice in the ice maker.

What is bizarre is that if I click the ice maker "reset" and wait a few minutes, ice will release every time into the bucket (I can do this every few hours to fill up the bucket if I need ice).

The only advice on this model I could find is that the ice maker would freeze up. I didn't see any ice build up anywhere, but I removed everything from the refrigerator and defrosted the entire thing. It made ice perfectly for a few days without any problems, and then it stopped making ice again (again, hitting the reset will dump ice into the bucket).

I thought perhaps it was a water temperature issue, so played with the temperature of the refrigerator and the freezer, but that didn't seem to change anything.

I'm starting to think this is a sensor issue somewhere, but it's almost impossible to reach inside of it or see what is going on. Is there any way to repair or replace the ice maker?


texts: Is my plan for a new bathroom lighting and fan circuit code-compliant?

texts:
I am adding a new lighting circuit to my bathroom remodel and wanted to get some feedback on my planned wiring layout. This circuit is in addition to a pre-existing dedicated 20A circuit for the outlets.

I am going to feed a 3 gang box with a 14/2 15A circuit from my breaker box. Then pigtail the hot and neutral to 1 dual dimmer switch, and a deadface GFCI.

From the dual dimmer, I was going to run 14/3 to a vanity fixture and 2 pot lights, sharing the neutral.

The second run will go to the GFCI, then to a dimmer and timer combo, then a 14/3 run to a pot light in the shower and an exhaust fan, also in the shower wet area. This run will also share the neutral.

My original plan was to run 14/2 from each switch to each fixture, but it would seem more efficient to pull 2 14/3 runs rather than 4 14/2 runs, especially due to challenges in the structure to get the wiring thru.

Thoughts on this layout being code compliant? Any opinions for improvement?


texts: Is it a good idea to cap fiberglass batts with blown cellulose?

texts:
I currently have fiberglass batt insulation of about 6 inches (in some spots less than that closer to 3 inches) due to a cleanout necessitated by rodent activity which has been hopefully remedied.

I have encountered the following recommendation:

  "If you have cellulose, fiberglass above is ok, never let anyone blow cellulose over fiberglass. Batts or blown."

Can you please explain the reason for this and what is the best choice to put over the fiberglass batt.  My research concludes that blown-in cellulose would provide better overall insulation vs. fiberglass for both temperature and sound factors. I am also on a slope and more exposed to fire risk and the cellulose has a borate fire retardant whereas I would not get that protection with fiberglass.


texts:
I am cleaning windows (small business) and that generates a bag of wet dirty cotton towel rags each day. I wash the rags each day, and need to store those until the end of the week, when I take the rags to a local laundry to be dried.
I can't go to the laundry every day, so it is crucial to find a way to store the rags wet for extended periods of time without starting to smell of mold. I have been told that this is impossible, but I don't believe that in the slightest. In fact,
I think that simply packing in a tightly sealed plastic bag will be enough to prevent spores from getting in contact. Also, the wet rags can be treated with a dilute bleach solution if needed. That is just at the top of my head.
Is what I'm suggesting viable?


texts: How should this vintage wall-mount sink be mounted? Does not fit standard cast iron brackets

texts:
I'm planning to wall-mount a vintage 'Standard' victorian cast iron sink similar to the one in this question: Antique Cast Iron Sink Wall Mounting Support and Weight Issues?. That sink has two bolt points high on the sink through the porcelain; this sink has two bolt points / mounting tabs low on the sink.

There is a vertical stud centered exactly where I'd like to hang the sink. The wall is completely open in this area, so horizontal studs can easily be added.

There are 4 mounting tabs and brackets. Two on the rear against the wall, and one on each side. Ideally, I would like to mount the sink using only the two rear tabs bolted to the wall.

The standard cast iron brackets available for vintage sinks do not seem designed for this sink's brackets. The pockets are not deep enough for the tabs on my sink, the holes do not align, etc.

My initial thought is to use two heavy duty lag screws + washers through the rear tabs into horizontal studs in the wall. However, due to the geometry of this sink, it seems like that might not work. The tabs are low on the sink, not high near the top lip. And there is no lower structure below that point touching the wall to resist a downward force against the front lip.

This would seem to make the sink top heavy, prone to tipping forward either due to the weight of the sink or from someone putting weight on the front lip.

But perhaps I'm underestimating the strength of lag screws?

The other Issue I foresee is the "lip" that pushes the very top of the sink away from the wall. My solution would be to mount a 2x4 or similar piece of wood to the horizontal mounting studs, pushing the bolt locations away from the wall enough to clear the lip. But I do not want a 2x4 visible on the wall behind my sink, and I'm worried that if I "hide" a small piece of wood completely behind the sink that the bolts will not have enough spacing to the edge of the 2x4 (if that makes sense). Would something like a thick metal washer make more sense than wood?

Are two lag screws a viable way to mount this sink? If not, how should I mount it?


texts: Appearance of damp after dpc injection - can "good enough" plaster go soft?

texts:
Approximately 1 year ago we had a wall treated with damp proof course injections (silicone I believe) and we then rendered with a mixture including a relatively strong mix of good waterproofer.

After a few months we started to see what appeared to be a recurrence of the damp on two wall corners.

We've now had the company that injected the chemical DPC round and they have found that the plaster where this damp is showing is quite soft. They therefore claim that our plaster / render is deficient as this is coming through from the wall still having moisture in it, and that "good" render / plaster would still be hard and holding this damp in, even if there was rising damp there, so as it's soft then it has to be the plaster / render.

The image below shows this issue. I find this hard to take (partly I'm sure because of the time and money invested and at risk from their assessment) but also because it looks so much like it's damp rising through the corner of the wall.

Should I accept that this is residual moisture, 1 year after treatment, and that our render is definitively at fault?

Edit: to clarify this is a wall between the kitchen and entrance hallway, approx 1m from external wall. Original issue is rising damp - house is from early 1900s so built without a DPC. We are near a river and water table is relatively close.


texts: Why isn't the spark gap lighting the pilot on my furnace?

texts:
I've got a Carrier 58GS natural draft furnace, which has a spark gap for igniting the pilot. Unfortunately, the spark gap has not been successfully doing its job. The spark clicks away as the gas rushes past, but the fuel never ignites.
Normal Ignition Sequence:

Thermostat calls for heat.
Pilot valve opens.
Spark gap produces spark.
Pilot ignites.
Bi-metal switch heated by pilot.
Pilot proves.
Main valve opens.
Main burners light.
Blower starts after time delay.

Current Ignition Sequence:

Thermostat calls for heat.
Pilot valve opens.
Spark gap produces spark for 90 seconds.
Pilot does not prove.
Pilot valve closes, and furnace shuts down.

I've lit the pilot manually using a grill lighter, and once it's lit everything else works fine.  If the pilot is lit manually, the furnace cycles properly. It has even cycled on/off for a whole day after being lit manually, but will not ignite when cold (not used for extended time).
This morning I noticed the thermostat was calling for heat, but the furnace was again in the shut down state.  I reset the thermostat, and removed the access panel from the furnace.  I let the spark gap spark for a bit, to see if it would ignite the gas on its own. After about 45 seconds of failure I gently blew on the spark, and what do you know, a flame danced into existence.  The flame started off very orange as I blew, but settled to a stable blue flame quickly.
Here is a YouTube video of a similar model furnace exhibiting similar behavior. Note: My spark gap does not sound erratic, and has a steady tic-tic-tic.
Here's what the pilot assembly looks like:

Click for larger view
Here's the schematic for my setup:

Click for larger view
I'm assuming the furnace is original to the house, which would put the installation around 1990.  Other than this issue the furnace is in good repair, so I'm not looking to replace the entire unit. I'm just baffled by what could be causing the pilot to not ignite?


texts:
Looking for ideas please on the best way to complete this trim.
Do I run the 1/4 round to the floor and trim the baseboard to fit, or run the baseboard to the stairs and [somehow] match the 1/4 round to baseboard?
Or other options>?


texts: Humidifier connected to water supply WITHOUT a furnace

texts:
I want a humidifier that's connected to the water supply but I don't have a furnace (I have baseboards).
Does that exists?
I just want a humidifer that I don't have to refill every day or so.


texts: Double check cable and conductor type selection for remote panel

texts:
I'm not looking for help on conductor sizing here as I still have some math to do.  I am looking for confirmation that the type of cable and conductors I'm planning to use are appropriate.

Scenario is running a feeder to sub panel (with a main breaker) in detached pole building. From the house main panel branch circuit breaker I intend to run SER cable exposed in the basement floor joists to the exterior wall closest to the pole building.  I will then have an exterior disconnect with the line side being fed through the wall by the SER cable.  Between the disconnect and the pole building sub panel I will be running PVC conduit, with a portion going underground.  I'll be using XHHW-2 conductors from the load side of the disconnect to the main breaker in the sub panel.

I plan to run four conductors all the way, 2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground and the sub panel will also have a ground rod and the entrance to the pole building and the ground will be kept isolated from the neutral.  For the XHHW-2 section of the feeder, I intend to get different colored conductors to keep with code requirements.

The reason I'm using the disconnect is it seems to be be less bulky than a large junction box and it gives me another point to isolate if needed.

Does anyone see any concerns with the type of cables and conductors I have selected, as well as where I have called out conduit or lack there of? I did not want to run the individual conductors all the way as I did not want to run the conduit in the basement.  If someone sees a major flaw with running the SER on the first portion of the feeder,  I could run conduit the entire run and use the XHHW-2 all for the entire feeder run.

The other option I considered, but am not leaning towards is MHF cable as a continuous cable panel to panel without using the disconnect. My outdoor PVC conduit section between the house and pole building is minimal so the MHF conduit pull should not be too bad.

Thanks.


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