texts: No studs just furring strips on brick for cabinet install

texts: 1961 kichen remodel-and the exterior wall is brick with furring strips with drywall. This is the longest wall and will have the majority of wall cabinets (old cabs were nailed into the ceiling). Ripping out and framing flat might be possible, but the door to the garage is also on that wall-really don't want to reframe the door in the brick. Kitchen is already pretty narrow, so losing space to a framed wall is not ideal, makes the passage less than 3 feet). Any ideas for safely hanging upper cabinets?


texts: Which is the ground wire in my lighting circuit?

texts:
I am installing track lighting and have uninstalled the old florescent lighting. I am now left with:

1 white wire
2 black
1 yellow

And what looks to be an exposed copper wire.
I understand that the white is my neutral and the black are my hot wires. I’m confused about the ground. Is the yellow wire or the exposed copper my ground?
I really appreciate any help and insight.


texts: My sliding window is leaking air via the groove - is it fixable?

texts:
I live in an apartment complex with a dedicated maintenance crew. I noticed that one of our bedrooms is a lot colder than the rest of the apartment, and of course when inspecting the sliding windows, I found that there is a noticeable air leak.

The leak is coming through the groove of the sliding window. I'm not sure I understand how air is coming through this groove, but it's very clearly a problem, as I can easily feel the air leaking in from outside.

I called maintenance, and the man they sent says that it's a problem that can't be fixed with weatherstripping, and the only solution is to replace the windows. Apparently they are aluminum windows and that's a common complaint they've been receiving. Instead, he offered to cover the window in the plastic insulation that you can get at any Home Depot or Lowe's.

Either way, it's no cost to me, but I find it hard to believe that this is just an accepted problem of aluminum windows. Is there really no solution to this problem other than replacing the windows?


texts: Are gaps above and below framing members a concern?

texts:
I recently hired a framing crew to frame a new house. After it was done, I commissioned an independent review. The reviewer described some of the work as "shoddy," and pointed out a lot of gaps, particularly between king and jack studs and the plates. I took photos and added his notes to a few studs he pointed out. He also pointed out that the roof beams weren't birdstoothed, as the plans directed, but were instead set onto the headers and strapped to scrap lumber. In one place, the beams are strapped to a split 2x4.

Would it be appropriate to ask the framers to fix some of this work? I don't work in construction, but even as someone outside of the industry I'm looking at this and it just doesn't look good.

Edit: Here is an album showing many additional photos: https://imgur.com/a/WRBO1is


texts: How can I remove a stuck circuit breaker from the panel?

texts:
I went to replace my circuit breaker for my dryer because the dryer kept
shutting off. I started checking around and discovered when you jiggle the breaker a little
the dryer light flicker. I decided to replace the breaker which is something that I have done before in the past. the problem I am have is the breaker will not pop out as the other breakers do. this is a dual pole 240V breaker. The single pole breakers pop right out but some don't either. hope someone can help.


texts: Got a brand new snowblower.  The manufacturer calls for 5w-30 oil but I do not have and can't get to the store before I need to use it.  I have 10w-30 full synthetic and I have 5w-20 conventional.  Which would be a better choice?


texts: We recently discovered our dishwasher was leaking under our flooring into the subfloor (formerly the floor - oak before the previous owner added pergo). We’re in the process of cleaning it up and see that there are spidering like dark marks on the floor that I’ve never seen before. Does anybody know what it is?


texts:
I live in Georgia and am putting a garage apartment behind my house.  It is about 30 - 40 feet from the main house.  I would like to know how many different trenches I will have to dig, how deep, and what utilities can share trenches.  If I go with natural gas heat, I will need a gas line (3/4" plastic?), 3" PVC sewer, probably 4 AWG wire for electric (in 1" PVC conduit?), water supply (3/4" PEX?), low voltage (1" PVC for cat 6, cable, etc.?).  There is a possibility I can run separate electric service from another pole to the garage if the electric trench will have to be too deep or not able to share a trench with another utility.
Thanks.


texts: Garage door closes and then reopens - Already adjusted force sensor to max and tried adjusting cable tension

texts:
I feel like this has to be a common issue, but I'm having trouble finding references here. It's the same sort of Craftsman garage door opener that most of suburbia has here in the United States. This morning, I found the garage door open after my wife left in the morning, and I found that it was because the door is currently closing all of the way, then re-opening. I went through the standard steps of checking for obstructions (none, although I sweeped the area to be sure) and adjusting the downwards force up, but found that that value was already close to the max, and moving it that small amount more did not fix the problem (I did verify that reducing the force resulted in the garage door not closing all of the way). I furthermore tried the step of reducing the tension on the cable by adjusting the nuts (it seemed like a reasonable thing to try), but no dice.

The weather is cold and wet here, but no more than usual. There is some squealing when the door rises or closes, despite me re-dosing the railings with WD-40. The garage door and opener are probably pretty old, because I got them with the house six years ago, and the impression I got of the owner (now deceased) was that he didn't replace anything until he really had to.

Right now, I have the trolley disengaged so that I can get the door closed, but I'd prefer to fix this before my wife gets home tonight because I can very much see her hitting the button and just continuing on into the door.


texts: 3 prong plug to 4 prong outlet adapter? (Welder outlet)

texts:
It seems really easy to find the opposite (how to plug a 4 prong plug into a 3 hole outlet) but I actually need the reverse (I need to plug a 3 prong plug into a 4 hole outlet) and not sure if it even exists.
I have this welder: https://www.harborfreight.com/stick-225-inverter-welder-with-electrode-holder-64978.html
...which includes a 240, 3 prong plug. It's the kind that looks like your standard plug (two parallel prongs and a ground). It's not the kind dryers use where you have 3 angled prongs.
On the wall-side, I have a 40amp, 4-wire outlet (2 hot, neutral, ground).
Is there a way to use this welder with this outlet? If so, is there an off-the-shelf adapter for this? If not, could I wire up my own using a 4 prong plug wired into a box with a 3 prong outlet. If I can do the latter, what's the proper way to do that?


texts: Older Schlage double cylinder deadbolt with single small hole next to key. How does one remover this deadbolt from door?

texts: Older Schlage double cylinder deadbolt with single small hole next to key.  This is the same on both inside and outside.  No other visible fasteners.  How does one remove this deadbolt from door?  Thank you.


texts: How do I know when a water heater's relief valve should be replaced?

texts: My relief valve has been leaking lately. It looks like its not working right. How do know when its not working right? Its leaking from the end of the pipe the spring seems like its not working right


texts: How do I prepare my home for a power outage?

texts:
With several storms in the Northeast United States and more storms predicted this week, there have been lots of extended power outages.  What are things to do to prepare your house for a power outage especially in the winter.

What are things you should do once you have lost power and once it comes back on?


texts: Can wallpaper be coated with a protective finish?

texts: I want to use wallpaper as the decorative top to some nightstands I plan on making. The wallpaper by itself would probably not last too long especially with cups/glasses being set on them frequently. My idea is to just coat the wallpaper with a protective finish like a spray-on lacquer or polyurethane. Will this ruin the wallpaper or is this a suitable method to protect it?


texts: Surface Main Panel over Smaller Original Flush Panel

texts:
Main Service Panel Upgrade Question.

I have a 1950s stucco home with a 100A flush service panel with meter; the panel does not have a main breaker. I would like to upgrade to a 200A service with a main, but a new 14.4 wide panel will not fit in the bay where the original panel is located. The original panel is 12” wide and so is the bay (it is close to a corner and all other bays are 16” O.C.).
One idea is to install a surface mount panel over the smaller original flush 100A panel. But if I do this the mast head conduit would be left attached to the original panel and the service conductors feed into the new 200A panel from a knockout in the back.  Would this be a NEC violation? The service conductors would be replaced and continuous from the new panel to the mast head.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


texts: What should I do about a bad drywall job on the ceiling?

texts: I started to try and cover the tape marks with more joint compound, I was going to sand it, but now I think I should scrape all of it off and try to redo it.  It’s absolutely driving me mad.


texts: Why can't I get hot water quickly at my vanity sink?

texts:
Whenever I turn on the hot water, it takes 3-4 min to get hot water at the vanity. It takes 1-2 min. for the shower. I have a gas heater.

Can it be fixed or does it need to be replaced?


texts: Why aren’t there water shutoff valves for each room?

texts:
Had an issue today with a nail going through a water supply line in a bathroom. It got me wondering if there is a practical or technical reason there aren’t typically room-specific shut offs between the master shut off and the shut offs at the fixtures? Seems silly to shut down the whole house for a pinhole, but there really wasn’t a better option.

Just asking out of curiosity to see if there are any plumbers out there.


texts: How to correctly ground long distance from main disconnect to first panel

texts:
I've got a property with an existing very sluggish electrical installation which consists of a service drop at property entrance, no main disconnect and a 130' underground run to the living space (house) where a main panel is badly wired up. I am about to correct this and install a breaker at service drop and wire up the panel correctly.
This is a follow up to a question of mine about the needed ampacity of the main disconnect breaker in this situation.

My service comes in here (please don't even comment the hooked up appliance...):

In the before mentioned question there's an illustration of the service providers specs on what this should look like.
Well there's a small diameter red wire coming out of the meter which is not supposed to be there and gets lost after a few inches of conduit...
There's also a bare ground wire coming through when the ground rod is actually on the meter side and it also gets lost in the conduit further along the run.

The neutral here should apparently be hooked up to the ground from the meter (I hope it is, I'll call the company when I'm about to install the disconnect to pull the meter). I'm currently about to choose this panel as my main disconnect with a double pole 70A or 50A breaker (depending on my investigations on the gauge of the cable run):

From the service drop the phase and the neutral wires run as #8 THWN (or #6, currently trying to figure out; most probably #8 because that's the spec of the provider and cheaper...) in 3/4" semi-rigid conduit underground to the "main" panel which is a total mess (as well):

At this panel there's a grounding rod bonded to the neutral bar as expected on a main panel.
(I'll rewire most of this)

QUESTION

If I install a main disconnect right behind the meter where do I need to ground?
I suppose that the disconnect would be grounded through the neutral because of the meter? Would that make the existing panel become a sub panel and call for a separate grounding bar even though being 130' away?


texts: Medium-term repair for spalled foundation with exposed mudsill

texts:
I have an old house (built in 1946) near the ocean.  The foundation in the back has spalled off, exposing the mudsill in some places.  The worst spalling is 4" deep - you can see the mudsill and a few rotted anchor bolts.

A home inspector and a handyman/contractor both looked at it and thought it could be patched.  A foundation contractor came out and says it's not patchable - he recommends excavation and replacement of the rear foundation, which involves demoing part of our living space.

In the 2-5 year timespan, we plan to remodel and extend this wall anyway - but we can't afford to do this remodel now, and it seems silly to excavate and demo only to redo it all just a few years later.

The foundation does not have much sag - no big vertical cracks, about 1" of sag from the front of the house to the back.  Not bad for a 70 year old tract home!  But the foundation is degrading rapidly and rainy season is just arriving.

I need a stopgap that can hold the degradation at bay for a few years.  My plan is to:

use a wire brush to remove the loose concrete and aggregate
spray the existing foundation with water
pack on rapid set mortar mix to patch all the missing holes (would cement-all be better?)

How terrible is my plan?  Obviously it doesn't fix the foundation bolt problem, but we're paying for earthquake insurance anyway.  Again - earthquake resilience is a priority for the remodel - but we need to live in it as-is for a few years first.


texts: Very odd gas furnace installation in apartment... How do I change the filter?

texts:
Here are some pictures of the installation: http://imgur.com/a/UWSyD

This furnace is actually in my unit. It looks like the previous tenant or landlord just jammed a bunch of filters on both sides. I find it hard to believe that this is the right installation but can't really figure out how a filter should be properly installed? Has anyone seen anything like this? Or was the whole furnace just not installed right to begin with. Seems very weird. The 4th and 5th pictures are what is on the opposite side of the furnace.


texts:
I have recently purchased a house that was built in 1997 in The state of Arizona. I am purchasing a new electric range and wanted to know if a 3 or 4 prong power cord would be required since I am unable to move the range to see for myself?

Thanks
Joe


texts:
Currently, I have a wood burning stove with a double elbow flue going into the chimney.  I'd like to get rid of the double elbow and that would mean that I move the stove approximately 4 feet to the right.  I have heard that if the wood stove is not positioned in the center of the room, the temperature differences on the right and left side of the stove will, over time, distort and break down the stove itself.  I'd really like to move the stove due to the double elbow being an insurance thing, and overall aesthetics.

Can a wood burning stove be positioned close, but not completely in the center of the room without wearing down the stove over time? What other implications other than having one side of the room being warmer than the other? Are there any other concerns about having an off-centered wood burner?


texts: I'm planning to do some projects around my house.  One is to change a light at the exterior peak of my garage, which is about 28' tall.  The other is some painting on the side of my house, which is about 18' tall.  I looked at a chart from a ladder maker and it looks like I could use a 28 or 32 foot extension ladder.  Does that sound right and would either work for both jobs?


texts:
For rekeying locks, how can one tell what brand the locks are?

As far as I can tell there are no indications on the outside of the locks and I haven't taken them apart yet to check inside. Any tricks to this? The locks I'm interested in look pretty generic and are likely fairly old (though still working well) so it may be a lost cause and I'd need to pull them out and replace them or bring to a locksmith.

Here's one lock I'm interested in. Exterior, side, and interior view:

And another, also exterior-side-interior views:


texts: Required protection for copper gas line passing through metal opening in fireplace casing (Alberta, Canada)

texts:
Background context:  As executor, I'm in the process of selling my late father's house.  I have an offer pending; following the home inspection, the prospective buyers have submitted a list of concerns they would like to see addressed, along with corresponding sums of money they'd like to have knocked off the agreed-upon purchase price.  Some of their cost estimates / requests are not altogether unreasonable, some ... not so much.

There is one item on the list I'm having trouble evaluating.  The inspector noted that the copper gas line feeding a gas fireplace was not protected as it passed through the metal casing of the fireplace. See photo below from the inspector's report.

So, I agree that this is an issue, and I'm willing to address it.  But how "easy" a fix is this?

Can I just wrap some kind of approved protective sleeve around the copper pipe over a short length spanning the opening?  Would wrapping it with ROXUL or some similar fire-rated insulation work?  Does the protection have to be on the copper pipe, or could I, for example, put some kind of plastic/foam protection around the sharp edges of the metal casing for the fireplace?

Or is this something that will require a more involved/less DIY-friendly fix? (E.g., the gas line has to be disconnected, a metal sheath added, and the gas line reconnected.)

I guess my question is ultimately -- is this a DIY type fix requiring $25 in materials and a healthy dose of profanity, or is this something requiring a professional at a cost on the order of a couple hundred dollars (figuring "dispatch fees" and all the other usual overhead)?

House is located in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

Any and all comments or suggestions welcome.


texts:
I have this ugly hole in the hallway ceiling:

It's a top floor flat, in a a very old building in the UK (5 floors in total).

If you look closely, you can see that there is some metal tube in the middle, with cracks at several layers.

Is it from a leak? If I just paint over it, will it just show up again in a few months?

Thanks!


texts: Are these doors installed correctly, and are they secure as they are?

texts:
I hired a contractor to install 2 prehung fiberglass exterior doors in my home and I'm not sure if he measured incorrectly, but both doors have at least 1-1.25" of gap space on the sides between the frame & studs. Both doors also sit about 3/4" inch back, so the hinges are merely screwed into the door frame and won't even reach the stud without about 3" of length and some angling. The door jamb also sits a 1/2" behind the drywall, causing the molding to not lie flush with the door. One door is 30" with a 34" rough opening and the other is 36" with a 40" r.o.

I have 3 questions:

Are both doors too small for my entryway?
Does this pose some security risks of being easily kicked in?
How can this be remedied? Order larger doors, add fillers between the gaps?


texts: How do I make a remote controlled fan turn on with the light switch?

texts:
I have installed the fan, the remote works perfectly but when you turn the light switch on the fan does not light up you have to find the remote and use that to turn on the light
Help???


texts: I have 5 regular receptacles outside with one GFCIS on same circuit is this legal?

texts: I have a new house come to find out there are regular receptacles on same line as GFCI. Is this legal


texts:
I called a handyman for cleaning my dryer vent under my house slab. It is a glass pipe vent.  He cleaned it up using water from the laundry room hose.

Is this an okay way to clean up the lint? I also had my lint eater fiber rod and brush stuck inside the drier vent but none of them came out with cleaning using the water.

Does this handyman really know how to clean the dryer vent?


texts: Can I smooth a knockdown-textured ceiling with spackle?

texts:
I recently had new drywall put up in the top floor of my house to cover a cracked plaster ceiling with popcorn texturing. I used a contractor, and when asked about a texture for the drywall my preferred option (smooth ceilings) was very expensive while a knockdown texture was not. I ultimately opted for the knockdown texture due to the cost difference.
I've been looking into doing something on my own to smooth out the drywall (while hanging it myself would probably not have been a good idea due to my skill level, I can do some other tasks adequately). Most options seem pretty involved, but I think that I could handle a skim coat if it's necessary.
But the skim coat process seems very similar to using spackle for small repairs in walls, which led me to wonder: would using spackle for smoothing a ceiling that has knockdown texturing work? There must be some drawbacks, or reasons it won't work at all, or else I would expect to see spackle as an option when googling ways to smooth the texture.
So I guess the best formulation of my question is: can I use spackle and a putty knife to smooth out my ceiling at all? And if it's possible, what are the drawbacks that make it such a (seemingly) unpopular option?


texts: What is the best board to install behind a glue up tub surround?

texts: I would think it would make sense to install a waterproof board like GoBoard or DensShield behind a fiberglass tub surround, but I can’t find an adhesive that specifically states that it is compatible with these products. I’m hesitant to use greenboard when for not much more money I can have a waterproof wall. Cement board is a pain to work with and liquid nails gets mixed reviews adhering to it.


texts: Hit metal while drilling into wall to mount TV

texts:
I'd like to mount a TV in the same spot as the condo owner previously mounted theirs.

There are 4 existing holes that use Toggler-brand SnapToggle toggle bolts, but they do not align with my mounting hardware so I only used these for positional reference and decided to mount a little bit higher.

I located the studs to the left and right, then drilled into the center of the rightmost one.

About 3/4" into the wall, I hit metal. I've read from other posts that this could be protection plate, but I don't know; I don't imagine there is a wire running there. I've also read it could be a "resilient channel" for sound isolation?

Should I just try drilling above or below my initial point? Or is there an obvious reason why the owner decided to just attach to the drywall only instead of the studs?


texts: Can I replace the aluminum cable of a single circuit with romex?

texts:
There is a single run of cable that needs to be replaced; all of our wiring is aluminum. I want to use cable with copper conductors instead of aluminum if at all possible. The run goes directly from the main panel to a duplex receptacle, which has another run of aluminum that goes to a single throw light switch. I was thinking of buying an electric outlet that is rated for both Cu and Al, connect the (Al) short run from the light switch to the top terminal screws of the duplex, and then connect the (Cu) home run from the breaker box to the bottom terminal screws.
Is this okay to do? Thanks to anyone who can provide an answer.


texts: How to change the bulb in an enclosed ceiling light?

texts:
I have just moved to China and my apartment has these kinds of lights:

I simply cant open them! The glass can be rotated without much force, as can the inner metal ring.  The outer metal ring can also be rotated but requires much more force.  I don't want to break the fitting so I want to check with some experts before I try extra force.

I don't even know what the name for this type of light is.


texts: Did the contractor installed the new layer of cement flooring correctly?

texts:
I apologize if this is not an appropriate question. I'm not really sure where to ask or who to trust.

I have a basement that the ultimate plan is to put epoxy, but before we can get to that stage, the crumbling cement needed to be dealt with. So an epoxy contractor was hired and he hired a subcontractor for installing cement to attack the area with the problem. The subcontractor is apparently a masonry company looking at their uniform.

The new cement was installed on top of the old floor. They did told me that there is an acidity problem, so they installed a metal mesh drilled into the old floor to allow better adhesion.

It the cement was added last Saturday. Today (Tuesday, August 29th), I am seeing hairline cracks forming. Pictures in the link

http://imgur.com/a/EeKvC

I already contacted a friend who is a masonry contractor (but didn't hired him because was a small job and didn't look interested in taking the job) and he told me they did a bad job. Telling me to go get a refund and have to re-do the project. But I'm still hoping against hope that it more of a different in opinions in construction or maybe other motives.

There's also the factor the cracks may not be their fault but my/our own. I have tenants in the basement. Despite repeated instructions to not put anything heavy when they return Monday, they put something heavy (maybe it is not that heavy as two strong people can pick it up, but way heavier than a table or a person continuously walking around). I caught it in the evening and moved it off, but it was there.

So all that said, is the hairline cracks something to be concerned? Is it so problematic that it has to be redone/demand-a-refund per masonry friend's advice? Or it is acceptable enough to go forward in after a few weeks for epoxy? And if the later, then what of the masonry friend's advice?


texts: What kind of wall/ceiling texture is this?

texts: Can you please help me identify this wall/ceiling texture and how to achieve it? I recently had to replace a patch and cannot figure out how to duplicate the pattern.


texts: How to add a washing machine drain to an existing cleanout in basement

texts:
I have the current setup in the basement, as shown in the photos below. I would like to see if any wisdom can be shared here to add a proper drain for the washer, i.e., a 18" standpipe with a p-trap that stands at most 18" above the ground.
Right now, the clean out plug is on the right side of the double wye, placed just on top of the main drain. There's no way to add anything below the double wye down the main drain pipe.
I'm completely new to plumbing. I have a perhaps-crazy thought on

extend from the wye on the right at 45 degree, add a MPT x Hub
still at 45 degree, add a tee with the side inlet facing the wall

at the end of the 3" Hub, add back the screwable plug
from the side inlet, make a 90" turn with an elbow so that a horizontal pipe can go to the right. With this particular fitting, the 2" inlet can point up

the horizontal pipe will be reduced to 2", and be finally connected with a ptrap and standpipe.
the 2" inlet will go up, then to the left, going behind the vertical drain, and finally connect to the vent pipe on the left, above its current clean out.

I tried to visualize the above but I failed to draw it in 3D. So I hope people can understand what I said over there. May be it's crazy, violating some code. Please feel free to point out anything that might be wrong. A new/better plan is welcomed too.
p.s. I hesitated to stack a cleanout tee on top of the double wye, because cutting it seems to be way messier than extending from the existing clean out.
Now:

Now:

Proposed (flipped, assuming viewing from the wall):


texts: How can I move a tub drain plunger, if the linkage chain is missing?

texts: The broken linkage chain was removed from our tub a couple of years ago. All has been good until now the plunger has fallen shut and the water drains v e r y, v e r y  s l o w l y. any suggestions how to get it unstuck? I don't even need it to be there are all, so if it can be remove that is just as well.


texts:
Is steam heat noisy compared to forced hot water?

I currently have forced hot water and the only noise is an occasionally hum from the pump (which can be annoying) and sometimes the sound of water can be heard running in the pipes. Also, sometimes the pipes will creak as they expand. In general, it is pretty quiet.

Does steam heat hiss or make other sounds?


texts: holes are popping up in walls and ceilings of both bedrooms


texts: Should there be an air outlet in an attic with a whole house fan?

texts: There has been a whole house fan between the second floor and attic of my house for some time.  We usually have it on with the downstairs windows open. I just had a thought: Should there be an open outlet/vent to outside when the fan is on? Can I get a remote opening one, so I don't have to go all the way up there when I turn it on? It does pull very strongly as it is, but would adding a vent cause a notable difference?


texts: Best way to air seal, vapor seal, and insulate exterior wall in old house?

texts: I have a 90-year old house in Seattle.  Exterior walls are constructed as follows: lath and plaster, uninsulated 2x4 stud bays, plank sheathing, cedar clapboard, 1" foil-faced styrofoam, vinyl siding.  The house leaks like a sieve, and costs a mint to heat.  I can't seem to find consensus on how to approach updating and weatherizing a house like this, though.  What's the best way to seal the drafts, add insulation, and manage any moisture moving through the wall?  Ideally, I'd like to keep the existing lath and plaster as most of it is in decent shape.  I would like to ditch the vinyl and re-side with clapboard.


texts: How do I keep the plastic window insulators sealed when the window has a sill?

texts:
Last winter I covered my windows in my apartment with a window sealing kit so keep out any drafts. The winds and temperatures are pretty extreme around here and the plastic would peel away from some sections.

The windows are inset into the wall and don't have any trim around them besides at the bottom where the sill sticks into the room. This creates a problem because I don't have a good way to seal around the sill so I had to just stick the plastic to the top of it. The wind and temperature causes the tape to peel up a lot easier in this setup because of the angle the tape is stuck. I don't really see any other way around it.

Any ideas for how I can set this up better to make sure this thing stays completely sealed through the winter?

 (This picture I stole from http://abillco.com/sills-wooden-mdf-pine-oak-window-stained-painted/index.htm)


texts: When GFCI trips, metal enclosure becomes energized

texts: Sooooooo, the box is grounded to the receptacle. Also the outlet has no power coming out of it, though when I hit the test button the metal box becomes energized. But the outlet lets me test/reset at will so IDK whats going on haha.


texts: GFCI Outlet wired to non GFCI. Can I switch?

texts: I have a GFCI  outlet that is wired to another non GfCI outlet. So when either has a problem, they will trip off. My question. Can I reverse these outlets?   Let's say the GFCI outlet is on my left and the non-GFCI outlet is on my right, can I switch them and put the non-GFCI outlet on my left and the GFCI outlet on my right?


texts: Window "brakes" - What are these things?

texts:
I have a bunch of windows in my little 1950 Cape Cod in need of re-glazing but they also need a bit of mechanical repair for their "brakes". The "brakes" hold the sill in place, they are actuated by small levers at the bottom of the sill. The "brakes" are made of hardboard or something very similar.They reside in a gap along the vertical rails of the sill and grip against the frame. Picture should help.

A) Wondering what these "brakes" are really called.

B) Hoping somebody knows company out there is making replacement parts.


texts: How far apart should timber joists be for an MDF floor?

texts:
Background

I am starting my first serious DIY project - converting our garage into a playroom for the kids.  The garage floor is concrete.

My plan is to run timber (Sawn Kiln Dried Timber (L)3000 x (W)75 x (T)47mm - B&Q) joists across the concrete floor.  Then put down an MDF floor, put down carpet mat and carpet. I am going to fill the gaps between the joists with floor insulation (Jablite Flooring Polyboard).

Question

I don't want the floor to sag between joists, but I don't want to go overkill with the number of joists.

What factors should I take into account when working out how many joists to put down?  In other words how much of a gap should I leave between joists?


texts: How to anchor coat hooks and shelving in a rock-lath & plaster wall?

texts: I've purchased an older home from an era when they used rock lath and plaster for the walls. I had never heard of this kind of construction, though I've done plenty of electrical wiring in older homes with regular lath and plaster. My question regards putting up shelving and coat hooks in my children's closets so they can reach their things. What is the best way to anchor to this material? I've tried locating the studs with the most sensitive stud-finder I could buy at our local hardware store but had no luck. I know about toggle bolts, but is this my only option? And how thick, generally, did they make these walls with the rock lath and the plaster together?


texts: Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Door Pinched / Broken Wires

texts:
TLDR; What is the best way to splice wires together that will be moving?

I purchased a Kenmore Elite 106.51773510 refrigerator in March 2017. I had a few issues with the ice maker during my first year of ownership that were covered under warranty (turned out to be alignment issues and NOT an icemaker issue).  Last week, I was surprised (and frustrated) to find out that the ice maker stopped working again. I investigated the issue and was able to locate the root cause of the problem. The wiring harness that comes from underneath the freezer door and goes up through the door and connects to the icemaker (and other components) is broken. See attached photo for reference.

I was able to conclude on the root cause of the failure for this wiring harness. When the freezer door is opened and closed, the wiring harness is pinched and folded over. Over time it has broken (think bending a metal hanger over and over again until the metal fatigues and breaks).

At this point in time, I have identified that the wiring hardness is NOT available for purchase and the only way to repair this failure is to replace the door which costs about $1200. The wiring harness is permanently installed in the door. But replacing the door with the SAME wiring harness will result in the same failure over time.

So what I am looking for here is some assistance on fixing this issue. The only economical solution that I can come up with is to splice the wires together. But when splicing these wires together, should I solder the wires or butt splice them. When I complete the repair, I am going to have to extend the wires underneath the refrigerator in order to eliminate the pinch point. Any suggestions or feedback is much appreciated.

Update 2019.05.01: I have purchased the following materials from a local electronics store for repair.

This is the plan.

Stagger cut the wires (to allow for space for the butt joints)
Complete butt joints on staggered cuts
Shrink wrap each wire
Shrink wrap the whole wire
Re-route the wires to eliminate the pinching


texts: Installing a Honeywell Wifi thermostat and need a C wire connection

texts:
My current thermostat is wired as follows and the wires are from my Separate heater and separate AC air handler:

W - From my heat
R - From my heat

Rc - From my AC Handler
Y - From the compressor
G - From the AC Handler

Do I need to add a wire for the C connection but am unsure whether I need to do that how and where to connect it. Our can I do something else with the G wire?
I have attached a pi of my current schematic, can anyone please help?


texts: Did the handyman screw up or is there something wrong with my AC unit?

texts: My landlord recently hired someone to install a common wire from my Goodman AC unit on the roof down to where the thermostat is.  The current thermostat works fine, but is non programmable and battery powered.  My landlord got an ecobee 3 lite to replace it but when I began to install it, I noticed the voltages on the wires were kinda off.  R to G is 14.7 Vac but C to G is 59.7 Vac when the ac fan is running and 53 Vac when it is off!  Did the handyman screw up installing the C wire or is there something wrong with the transformer on the AC unit?


texts: How to attach deck when ledger board will be too low?

texts:
I'm building a (low) deck, and the siding is brick. I don't think attaching ledger board to brick siding is a good idea, it's not structural, even if I drill all the way through the brick, air gap and into the rim joist, the load will be on the brick, plus water penetration issues.

So I thought it might be possible to attach ledger board to the concrete foundation, and then somehow attach deck joists on top of ledger board? Is it possible at all? See photo how it looks now:

The distance from top of foundation to top of door threshold is exactly 12", so I was thinking 2x10 joists plus decking will bring the deck surface almost level with the indoor floor level.

I know I can build a freestanding deck, but I don't want to pour more footings than absolutely necessary. I'm in Ontario, so these have to be rather deep.


texts: How to get this electric panel up to code?

texts: This is my situation.  Am going to list my house, but this panel has always been like this.  We covered it with a mirror the whole time we’ve lived here.  I know, I know.  NOT the smartest move I’m sure.  Question is, will it meet code requirements if I have a cover or door installed?  Or is something more extensive needed?


texts: Can I use an existing 6/3 cable plus an additional ground wire for a sub-panel?

texts:
I am installing a sub panel for a kitchen remodel. I have an existing sub panel directly below where I plan to install the new sub panel. The existing sub panel is fed off the main breaker box with an aluminum 2-2-2-4 sheathed cable, with a 70 amp breaker.
I have an existing 6/3 cable feeding an electric range that does not have a separate ground wire, which comes from the main breaker box. Since I am going to replace the electric range with a propane range, I no longer need the 6/3 range feed.
Does it meet code if I run a ground to the existing sub panel, and use the 6/3 range feed to energize the kitchen sub panel? I have read that it meets code to run a separate ground to the main panel via a new path to bring the range feed to code, but I can find no such provision while connecting to the ground bar on the existing sub panel.
Thanks


texts: Acceptable to use grounding screw on metal box?

texts:
I just got a freezer and have it setup in my basement. I replaced a two-prong outlet with an ungrounded GFCI. I’d rather not leave it like this for concerns of it nuisance tripping and spoiling food.
I am wondering if it might be possible to install a grounding screw/pigtail and use a standard 3 prong outlet instead. The box is metal but from what I’ve read, that scenario is only acceptable if there’s a true path to ground via the metal. I’ve taken some pictures of what the wiring looks like.
https://imgur.com/a/0WQzbuR?

Starts out with EMT conduit that goes to a junction box. Out of the box is BX/AC cable (I think…) and into another box/light fixture. Out of that is NM cable. From there, it’s hard to tell what path it follows back to the panel.
I’ve got a multimeter, non-contact tester, and receptacle tester. And it’s probably worth noting that the plumbing was replaced with PEX.
Also, related question, is it safe to ground to an exposed metal box? If I happened to touch that box during a short, wouldn’t I become the ground?


texts: Polaris type electrical connectors terminology

texts:
I have a question regarding Polaris type electrical connectors. I should state right up front I am NOT an electrician, but have done some home wiring and think I know most of the basics.

I am trying to tap into an electrical circuit that is a 8 gauge cable (Type NM-B) (40 amp circuit). I have read about the Polaris type connectors and think this looks like the easiest way to go. The problem I am having is determining what size Polaris connector I need to use. The terminology they use doesn't make sense to me. I am looking at one sight that sells these connectors and (for example) the wire size says "500 MCM - 4 AWG" or another says "1/0 - 14 AWG", those terms don't mean a lot to me so I am not sure what to look for. I can't seem to find any of these type connectors for an 8 gauge cable. I hope that I am making sense, and thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

New Info:
So I have read some of the comments below and will try to add some more information on what I am trying to do, I apologize if I am not doing a good job at describing this, I find it hard to put into words what I am trying to do. The 40 amp circuit is for a radial arm saw that is located in my work shop. The 8 gauge cable runs from the circuit breaker box to the shop and ends with a dryer type outlet (sorry I don't know the proper technical term for that). I want to add another outlet of the same type between the existing outlet and the breaker panel for another machine. I want to cut the existing cable and add a box (4" x 4" x 2") at each of those cut ends (2 boxes total). At each of those boxes then "splice" (again that is probably the wrong term - sorry) a new length of the 8 gauge cable to go to the new outlet. Those 2 new cables would then be connected together at the new outlet. I think I would just use wire nuts to make the connections at the boxes, so wouldn't need to go with the Polaris connectors. I have tested making those connections with just some scrap pieces of the 8 gauge and an appropriate sized wire nut and I was able to get a good strong connection that way. I hope this makes more sense. Thanks for your help.


texts: Trying to wire ceiling fan with separate light/fan switch

texts:
Trying to wire a manual ceiling fan/light combo.
Image 1 is the current light switch:   Not sure why there are 2 black wires.  There is only 1 black wire coming from the ceiling, but it is connected with a red wire... Both hot I assume? See figure 3...
Image 3 is the new fan/light fixture.  Blue and black wires on the right are fan and light as I recall. The black wire is connected with a red wire.  Both hot?
Image 2 is the new dual single pole switch to separate the fan and light power.
Can anyone tell me how or if this can be wired?
Thanks!


texts: We had a quote to replace a laundry window (Home Depot - $1,000..!), so I’m going to try to do this myself. The quoted window size is 24 X 36, but seems most of them for sale online is 23.5 X 35.5. Does that 1/2 inch make a difference..?


texts: How can I identify and source an old faucet cartridge

texts:
I have an old faucet that drips. I would like to fix the leak, but am having a lot of trouble finding a replacement cartridge.

The faucet does not have any markings of any kind. I brought the cartridge in to several hardware stores and dedicated plumbing supply stores, but nobody could identify it. I have also searched online plumbing supply stores, but again no luck.

Normally I would take this as a hint and replace the faucet. But I plan to upgrade the whole bathroom in the near term, so a new faucet seems especially wasteful (it would likely be scrapped again during a renovation).

The broach outside diameter is 7/16" and it has 34 teeth.

Is there a better approach to sourcing a replacement part for this faucet?


texts: Home Building: Do the first and second floor exterior walls have to line up?

texts:
we are planning on building a house, and i had a question about the exterior walls. does the second floor exterior wall have to run on top of the first floor exterior wall? we are trying to make the second floor a few feet shorter on 2 sides of the house to save unnecessary sqftage.. is this possible? if so is it cost effective?

thanks


texts: Why is there no power on the load side of a GFCI outlet?

texts:
I ran a new electrical line in my basement to include a GFI receptacle for a portable sump pump followed by a switch that controls four LED can lights. All parts are brand new.

I wanted to have the entire system GFI protected so placed the receptacle first in line. Per the instructions the wiring from the breaker was wired to the LINE side then wired from the LOAD side to send power to the switch then wired the can lights from there.

Doing this I couldn't get power to the switch. I then rewired the receptacle so both the line coming to it and the line going to the switch both were on the LINE side.

I now have power to the switch but without the GFI protection but when I plug in the pump I have to wiggle the plug to get it to work and once the pump shuts off it won't start again without giggling the cord again.  I inserted receptacle reader and no matter how much I wiggle it none of the lights light which is suppose to indicate an 'Open Hot'. I've gone over all of the wiring multiple times and everything looks good. My question is, what does 'Open Hot' mean and what might I have done incorrectly? Could it be a bad GFI receptacle? At $25 a piece I hate to purchase a second one if it might be something different.


texts: How do I shut off the water spigot to the outside?

texts:
We recently bought a home built in 1970. The previous owner only used the home in the summer and drained the water every time he closed it down for the season. There is an outside water spigot and I spoke with the previous owner and he said he doesn't know how to turn it off for the winter. There are directions on the door that say to take a wrench and turn the screw that is 8" below the floor. I can't see the nut or screw even with a flashlight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
We are now well into winter, and I am terrified of a pipe cracking. The water pipe is covered in a large heating coil. I don't have the money to call a plumber.


texts:
I'm a little desperate here.  When we moved into this home, we inherited this shower fixture.  Now it's leaking.  But, I can't figure out how to remove it!?

I've tried to back it all the way off and looked for a set screw on the bottom.  I can't find any manuals online for this part.  Any ideas?


texts: Eliminating ticking noise of pipe in wall

texts:
I know that the ABS main stack in my home is not rubbing against the floor or attic plywood openings; it is rubbing against the drywall in a interior wall when the pipe expands with the use of hot water.  The pipe is 3.5" in diameter and the wall is studded out with 2x4's, so the stud bay is 3.5" as well.  With such little room to add felt, I was hoping a product existed that was thinner but would still eliminate the ticking noise.

Does any sheet-like product for this application exist?  I was expecting to find some sort of two-piece sheet system that would allow the sliding to occur between the sheets but I have had no luck in finding such an item on the interwebs.


texts: What are the best option for French sliding door blinds

texts:
regular honeycomb blind

[

We are thinking to place the blind bracket outside the French sliding doors. My other blinds are all honeycomb blinds.  I am wondering what are the best blind option we can have on French sliding doors to match other honeycomb blinds in the house.

Any suggestions?


texts: Goodman furnace flames out after 5 mins from cold start

texts:
Problem with Goodman Furnace flaming out. After it has been off for about an hour it will flame out after it starts and runs for 5-10 min before it satisfies themo setting. Restarts and finishes cycle. Next time it will usually run thru cycle. Pipes are two inch and run 31 feet out back of condo. Will run fine after a few cycles.

This is a Gas Furnace. Goodman GMSS960603BN Model no. 96% PSC UF New. Single stage,up flow. Has 2 inch pipe that runs out the back of condo. 31 feet. Two pipes, intake air and vent pipe. Manual say can use 2 inch pipe with 4- 90 degree elbows and run 30 ft. HAD 2 TECHS that say it is pipe problem. Why will it run full cycle most of the time. Then act up after it has been off cycle for about an hour or longer. Condensation water is draining. No kinks in hoses in furnace. Flame out t(All burners stop producing flame. Since is new pressure switch and control board have not been checked. I now have intake pipe off and use house air to get heat. Getting ready to have a 3 rd tech come in and go over everything. Any suggestion to tell him, will be appreciated.


texts: Carrier Fan Coil Unit heat function does not come on

texts:
FCU  model # 42SGA03   Fan works, cooling function works, but heat does not

1H/1C T stat Honeywell Focus pro 4000
Hot water  and chilled water supply and return pipes

terminals W ( heat ) Y( Cool) G( fan )  R/Rc( line voltage )  C( common)
I measure 24 volts at all terminals in backing plate with T stat removed,  ( R-W; R-Y: R-C; ) except fan ( R W )
Continuity between R and all other terminals
Also some continuity between W and Y terminal, and between the  wires themselves for the W and Y
I have tried with 2 Thermostats up there,  both new, and neither can get the heat to come on.
Could I test function by jumping between R and W? or R G and W?


texts: What does "DC pass" mean on a 4 way splitter?

texts: I have a 4 way splitter which has DC pass written on arrows that point in different directions . Does this mean that the splitter isn't a just a passive splitter and it needs power?


texts: Converting from a Trane XT500C AC Thermostat to Honeywell TB8220U1003 VisionPro 8000

texts:
All,
I am trying to upgrade my Thermostat and am very confused how to connect the wires correctly (Florida house built 1991, AC and heat strips, no furnace):
As is, Trane XT500

Blue to B
Red to R
White to W
Green to G
Tan to O (I think this is supposed to be Orange)
Yellow to Y1
Jumper W to X2

On the Honeywell:

There is B/O not B and O as separate connections.
There is no W.
There is no X2.

Available Connections are:

on Left:

Y2
L
A
W1
S1
S2

on Right:

RC
R
O/B
Y
G
C

I would greatly appreciate any help!!!! This should be easy, but I don't want to guess.
Here is the Trane (before) image:

Here is the Honeywell Replacement (VisionPro 8000 TB8220U1003):
 As you can see we ran the wires from what seemed obvious/reasonable, but didn't know what to do with the white wire. Also, we connected the Blue and Orange (tan) wires together into the O/B slot. Don't know if that is good or bad.

![mid wiring diagram
]8


texts: Ceiling light fixture wires - entirely in box?

texts: For new overhead light fixtures like this that normally come with long-ish wires, is the entire length of the wire supposed to be in the electrical box?  I assume that the part with the wire nuts must be, but does code allow for the rest of it to sit on top of the fixture's insulation but outside of the recessed box?


texts: How do you calculate water supply fixture units?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out how many water supply fixture units (WSFU) can fit off of my CPVC supply lines.  I looked at the tables in the 2015 NSP , but where I'm confused is figuring out where that is calculated.  Example -

I have a 3/4" supply line that tees to two 1/2" branches.  On one branch I have a dishwasher and kitchen sink, and on the other I have a bathroom with a 1.6gpm gravity toilet and a sink.  I'd like to T the connection to the bathroom so that it'll have 1/2" going to a bar sink and the other 1/2" going to the bathroom as before.

The question is, when doing the calculation, am I looking at only the WFUs off of the 1/2" line that is going to the bathroom, or do I have to take into consideration the line that is going to the kitchen as well?

   main =========T------------T---------- Bar Sink
                 |            |
              kitchen       half bath

        = -> 3/4"
    - & | -> 1/2" CPVC SDR11
        T -> tee intersection


texts: Carport post base connector - screws or bolts?

texts:
So I plan on using the Simpson Strong-Tie Model PBS44AZ post base. Further below are picture of what the base looks like.

They recommend installing as follows: Install with 16d common nails, #10 x 1-1/2 in. Strong-Drive SD screws or 1/2 in. diameter machine bolts

I will be using 5 of these with the 5 pressure treated posts that need replacing. The other side of the carport is attached to the house.

I plan on using either  Strong-Drive SD screws or 1/2 in. diameter machine bolts. Which would you recommend?

Also do these seem rust resistance enough, I hope they will last 40 years?


texts: How do I fix a couch with a protruding spring?

texts:
I have a fairly nice couch, about 8 years old, but just today I noticed that there was a sharp protrusion coming out the side. It has not yet punctured the fabric, but it seems like a strong wind might cause it to do so.

I turned the couch over, and pulled out some of the fabric staples so I could get a look in there, and I do see a straight piece of metal heading out the side and causing the protrusion. It's the same kind of metal as the springs, though like I said, it's straight, not coiled, which would lead me to suspect that it is supposed to be in that general area. Though obviously it shouldn't be protruding, so I wonder if it got "dislocated" so to speak.

There are two main problems: 1. I don't actually know where it should go (or how it should get there), and 2. it's really quite difficult to get at. I can see it, behind a piece of wood, but I can't fit my hand in there. How can I fix this?

Here's a picture of the problem:

And here are two views from underneath/inside the couch:


texts: Lowering a room...digging into foundation?

texts:
My husband and I recently purchased a home in Orange County, CA (note: earthquakes). The home was built in 1981, and is two "levels" if you will. The entry way, living room, all bedrooms, and a couple bathrooms are one level. The lower level is about 16 inches lower... from the entry way you can step down into a walkway, family room, and then beyond is the kitchen etc.

The living room and family room are right next to each other, with a two way fireplace in the middle, high ceilings (vaulted, but about 18 feet at their highest. There is no wall between (with the exception of the fireplace).

My husband and I would like to combine the living room and family room into one large great room if possible. But there is the 16ish inch-thick concrete foundation that is higher (I'm not sure if I'm making sense, so Im' trying to be descriptive as possible...I'll get a photo). If we were to break into this concrete would we be breaking the foundation? And if we DID break the foundation, could we fix it, or would we compromise the structure of our home?

Due to the roofline, raising the foundation in the lower room is not an option.


texts:
I am making a control panel out of wood, and I need to cut out a small 3" x 3" square hole in 1/2" plywood. I only have a small handsaw, with a wide blade. (about 2" wide) I don't feel comfortable using power tools for cutting, (*Jigsaws, reciprocating saws, band saws, etc.) so that is not an option. If I even cut this with my saw, how should I do it?
I also included a simple diagram of what it should look like.


texts: Light switches On in the Off position and Vice Versa

texts:
Good Morning,
I have a Levitron Two Position switch, which switches on in the OFF position.
I know a cheap fix is to just turn the switch around, but there is a label at the bottom of the switch that says says Levitron and it won't look good upside down.
I tried to switch the wires on the terminal and it still only turns on in the OFF position.
Before there was an old switch which I took out and replaced with the new two position Levitron switch after I replaced it, ALL THE SWITCHES IN THE HOUSE NOW ONLY WORK IN THE OFF POSITION.
I tried hard to switch the wires around but to no avail.
I made a wiring diagram for your convenience:

There are three entry points into the box:  From the Top, Top Left, and Bottom Left (denoted by the arrows)

I didn't put the green wire in the diagram because the switch works without it (I am testing it with the old switch)

The B marrett has a red and black wire was not connected to the switch and I am not sure where it originates from.


texts: How can I reposition a soldered copper 90-degree fitting

texts: I have a 90 coming out of my wall in my utility room to turn the copper down the wall.  I would like to swing it up as I have a taller softener.  Do I need to disassemble and start over or might I have success simply heating the joint and swinging it up?


texts: Should I use a screw or anchor bolt to hold a metal box to the wall?

texts:
Which type of bolt is best for securing a metal box to a wall to prevent it being pulled away: Screw Bolt or Anchor Bolt?
And by Screw Bolt I mean this:

And by Anchor Bolt I mean this:

(source: northerntool.com)


texts: How can I manage a drop ceiling potentially overlapping the top of a window?

texts:
Modifying a garage to turn it into bedrooms, I will be hanging a drop ceiling to cover up pipes, wires, etc., overhead.  An existing pair of windows (pictured) goes almost all the way to the current ceiling, with only about 2" of trim above the rough opening.  Due to a water pipe about 7" below the ceiling, my drop ceiling would overlap the window's opening by about that much.  (I haven't done a drop ceiling before and I'm not sure what the thickness of that hardware is.)

Certainly one option is to replace the windows, buy shorter windows, and wall in the top part of the rough opening to make a smaller opening that will fit below the drop ceiling.

My question, though, is: can I continue to use the existing pair of windows, even if they are partially overlapped by the drop ceiling?

If so, are there problems I should expect and special measures I should take?
If not, why not?

Clarification: the window on the left, and the dog door, are going to go no matter what.  I'm envisioning buying another window for the left side to match the one at right, if this is reasonable.


texts: What's the difference between "physical damage" and "severe physical damage" in the NEC?

texts:
The 2014 NEC uses "physical damage" at various points to refer to well, hard knocks, if you know what I mean.  However, certain passages in the NEC, such as 358.12 point 1 on EMT:

  Where, during installation or afterward, it will be subject to severe physical
  damage.

380.12 point 3 on multioutlet assemblies:

  Where subject to severe physical damage

and 388.12 point 2 on surface nonmetallic raceways:

  Where subject to severe physical damage

Why is it that the NEC changes the terminology for these and a few other wiring methods, and what is the difference between plain ol' physical damage and severe physical damage, or is that left to the AHJ to decide?

P.S. if it helps -- I'm trying to decide whether surface nonmetallic raceway would be suitable for a branch-circuit extension in a residential attached garage, or if I need to use something sturdier, such as schedule 80 PVC, as I'd much rather not rip into the garage walls.


texts: My artesian well just ran dry. Do I just wait for it to fill up?

texts: I have been living in my current house for about 8 months now, and this is the first time I have been without water(besides power outages). I noticed that the water was a bit brown so I let the hose run thinking it would flush the muddy water out. I forgot about the hose and ran the well dry. The hose was only running for a few hours. Is there anything I can do? I am guessing I will just have to wait for the well to fill up again. It should be noted that the last couple of days we were putting on multiple loads of laudry, far more than normal.


texts:
I have a base heater that is installed in a wall (dry wall).
I noticed that after a while the wall right above the heater gets very hot to the touch. My concern is that this could be a fire hazard.

Wondering if I should add some kind of ceramic covering for the wall. A ceramic wall paper would be ideal. The idea is to keep the drywall, paint, and wood/insulation behind it from bursting into flames.

Any ideas?

PS - Note that the previous owner had installed the base heater upside-down! :(


texts: how to connect C wire to Weil-McLain EG-65 Series-5 gas steam boiler

texts: Which of the Weil-McLain EG-65 transformer terminal should I use for a thermostat common wire? (I am trying to connect a nest learning thermostat to that boiler and it needs a common wire). Thanks.


texts:
[UPDATE: After reading the question and answers, please see this blog that shows how the fireplace renovation was completed.]

I am getting ready to begin tiling part of my fireplace.  The current finish is a wooden mantle surrounding a masonry façade that runs to the outside edge of the firebox.

This is the current appearance.

I plan to place ceramic tiles over the masonry portion of the façade.  I will probably use stoneware tiles (in an arts and crafts style), either 4x4 or 8x8 for the bulk of the field, possibly with decorative tiles in the corners. (I realize I will have to cut tile, use other sizes, use border tiles, or adjust the moldings to deal with the slightly wider upper field.) I will also check with the manufacturer/supplier to ensure that they are suitable for fireplace installation.

The surface of the masonry façade appears to be a cement-like finish that has been trowelled to look like brick.  Here is a close-up.

The surface seems very solid ith no areas breaking away except for minimal chipping in a few places at the very edge.  The surface also seems to be painted.  There is no significant flaking or loose paint.  See below.

I am not sure what is below the cement-like surface.  I suspect brick, but am not certain.  The fireplace was built around 1905 and possible renovated in 1999, but I am not certain.

My questions are about installation:

  1. Do I have to remove the cement surface before tiling?

  2. Do I have to strip the paint?

  3. What mortar, mastic, adhesive or thinset should be used to hold the tiles?

Obviously, I would like to minimize the prep work but want a strong adhesion.


texts: Discovered neutral line has juice with breaker off

texts:
I have a box with 3 switches in it and was replacing 1 switch for a smart switch. I switched off the breaker and verified none of the switches worked. The initial wiring had all the neutral lines in the box all bundled together with a wire nut. Nothing out of the ordinary as far as I know. As I was adding in the neutral wire for the smart switch I found out the fun way that at least one of the neutrals still had juice running in it.

After a bit of trial and error, I found that if I switched off a second breaker, then there was no juice in that box.

Is this okay, or should I get an electrician out here to figure out what is going on? As far as I know, it has been this way since I bought the house a few years back.


texts: can I link a portable washer to 'conventional' laundry hook up?

texts: seeing that my leasing agent is putting up my rent per month by over $50 and no option to move, I'm thinking of ways to cut cost - one thing is to stop renting a washer for $22.50 a month and just buy a unit. I am considering buying a portable washer (something like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Haier-1.5-cu-ft-Portable-Washer/36758182#about), but I'm trying to figure out if I HAVE to use this next to my kitchen sink, or whether I could just link it to the conventional laundry hookup that's already in my apartment...any advice would be appreciated, thanks!


texts: Remove wallpaper that has been textured over

texts:
Our bathroom has textured plaster work that seems to have been put on over the top of wallpaper. You can see some of the seams and the wallpaper was also still there under a mirrored cabinet. Above the door, for example, the wallpaper is peeling. We would like to get rid of the texture on the walls.
Would it be possible  to just   take down the wallpaper that the plaster is on top of and hope that the walls underneath are acceptable for repainting?
Or
Can we sand down the textured plaster work?
(We would like to be able to paint and  have it be a smoother surface).


texts: I want to use a piece to replace damaged round downspout of same diameter.  I plan on priming and painting it, but the primer I have on hand says not to use on galvanized metal. It has a smooth black finish and there is a little bit of rust on some of the edges. It doesn't have the silver/gray that I am familiar with (as used, for example, for HVAC ducts). I have Googled my question without success.


texts:
The 1/4" MDF bottoms of these drawers are stapled to the drawer frames.  The bottoms are not rigid enough to support contents without sagging.  And they are so low to the cabinet frame that the sagging centers scrape and squeak against the cabinet face
My first inclination would be to glue cross-braces onto the bottom of the drawers, but there is no room for anything between the drawer bottom and the cabinet face.  I could perhaps glue and staple cross-braces inside the drawer.
Another thought was to apply a lubricant to the bottom of the drawer.  Is there something that would stick to MDF and be lubricious enough to stop the squeaking and not wear off?
Last idea was to get a very thin sheet of teflon or UHMW and glue that to the bottom of the drawer and/or the top of the cabinet frame where it is rubbing.  What material would be best, and what adhesives would hold it to MDF? –
How can this scraping, or at least the squeaking, be mitigated without rebuilding the drawers?
See the scrape marks in the following photo


texts:
I am having a house built, and I noticed there was no exposed ceiling box at the locations of my pendant lights.  I was unable to get out there to visually verify things before drywall went up (that's why there's a construction manager) The CM reassures me everything is wired, inspection passed, and ready to be pulled through on the final set out.

I walked through the attic this morning to find nothing more than a bundle of romex hanging from a roof truss, coming from the light switch location.

I've never seen a new construction rough in without a ceiling box for each light fixture, and this includes other houses this CM is building.

Is this cause for concern?  Should I require another electrical inspection for this? The attic will be blown in, concealing anything wrong, for the final inspection.


texts: Options for skirting board on slightly different levels

texts:
My kitchen floor is higher than my dining room floor and there is no door between them.

Since removing a thick carpet from the dining room and rescuing the wood floor there is now about an inch gap between the floor and the skirting board coming in from the kitchen.

I'm not sure what to so with the skirting board. At the moment I'm thinking of just ending the kitchen length at the boundary and then starting a new run in the dining room at the lower height.

Is there a more correct way to do it?

Image of boundary between kitchen and dining room:


texts: How directional is LED strip lighting (with a diffuser)?

texts:
Background:  My pantry (~ 2' deep, 4' across, 8' tall) consists of a bunch of shelves that are 1/2 the depth of the pantry.  It has one of those old white pull chain porcelain fixtures on the ceiling with a bare light bulb.  I have an 800 lm LED bulb in it and it satisfactorily illuminates all the shelves.  I think the bulb is pretty much omni directional so light bounces all over and given the shelves don't extend the full depth, it allows everything to get illuminated.

Well, that bulb is pretty ugly.  I could replace it with a globe fixture, but I wonder if strip lighting would yield something cleaner (plus, it's "cool" and maybe I could use that extra space if the bulb wasn't there).

I'd like to mount the strip on the ceiling just above the door (out of sight).  My concern is how directional the lighting is.  I don't want to mount multiple strips pointing in different directions because that would probably be too bright (unless I dimmed) and it wouldn't be that "clean".  I found one post that mentioned a 140 degree angle coming from the LEDs which I think would be OK, but I think that's without a diffuser.  I'm pretty sure I would want a diffuser to avoid shadows (and it should help reduce directionality of the light).  However, to use a diffuser, I think I would need a housing/channel.  I'm worried the sides of the channel would direct the light too much, unless I can find one with a very low profile (low sides).

I don't want to mount strips down each side--I have stuff hanging off the sides that would block the light.

I thought about strips on the underside of each shelf, but they're so packed with stuff, the lights would be blocked and/or it would reduce storage capability.  Also concerned about glare from lights shining directly in my eyes.

Does anyone have any experience with this?  I'd like to avoid trial and error.

Thanks,

Jim


texts: Should a plumber automatically choose to auger from the toilet?

texts:
I hired a plumber to clear a clog...toilet wouldnt flush, was bubbling, and water was backing into the shower and sink.  He pulled the toilet and started the snake.  When he first said he was going to go in thru the toilet it seemed odd because I didnt remember anyone removing the toilet when something similar happened several years ago, but figured he was the expert and wasnt sure I remembered how they did it before.  I figured he was the expert.
He couldnt get the snake back out.  Long story short, it had gone up the vent...he looked in the crawlspace, but said he couldnt open the pipes down there.  He looked in the attic, said it wasnt poking out of the vent.  He was unable to get his camera to go into the pipe.  He finally told me he was trying to find where the snake went, and I told him I thought there was a pipe that went to the mainline in the backyard.  He found it, looked in it, and didnt see the snake.
Without my agreement, his boss told him to cut the snake, even though I asked him to hold off until I could understand the options better.  Now they want me to pay $400 to replace the snake, but since they 1. Chose to access thru the toilet and 2. Sent the snake up the wrong place and 3. Were unable to figure out where the snake was and 4. Cut the snake when I objected, I do not feel I should pay for the snake.  They say I should because I didnt direct them not to use the toilet to access the mainline.
Shouldnt the plumber have known if using the cleanout was a better option?  Was it my fault because I didnt tell him the best way to do his job?  I didnt even think about its existence until he said something about it going up the vent. Also, since the plumber had to keep consulting with someone by phone as all this was happening, I was beginning to worry about their competence and did not want them to come back in the morning and start digging up the backyard.  Another plumber came, and the snake was hanging off my roof.  Cant they just come get the cable (now laying in my yard) and not have to buy a new cable?


texts: Installing P-trap on vanity going from 1 1/4 to 2 inch drain pipe

texts: I installed a new vanity recently as I am wrapping up a bathroom remodel but when I went to install the p-trap I realized that the p-trap is 1 1/4 inches and the drain pipe at the wall is 2 inches. I looked online for more info and to see what kind of adapters I may need but I couldn't seem to find anything. Are there adapters I can get for such a large diameter change? Are there online resources that I just didn't find? Thanks!


texts: Side penetration on an underground pull box?

texts: Can you make a side penetration in an underground quazite pull box 25"x30"x12"? If yes or no what codes back it up?


texts: Vertical or horizontal venting for a 36" range hood with a 3 speed 630 CFM blower

texts:
Installing a 36" range hood with an internal 3 speed 630 CFM 3 blower,damper and 6" vent pipe. Installation is in the area of an unused 10" square fireplace chimney flue.

Supposition: Will increase the hoods 6" vent to an 8" vent to increase air flow efficiency.

Option 1. Run vertical venting approximately 20 feet up chimney flue to top of chimney.
A run of 8" galvanized pipe would be inserted into the 10" square chimney flue. The hood has a 6" vent and will require two 45 elbows connected together to enable tying to the 8" pipe in the chimney flue. A transition connector increasing the flow from 6" to 8" would also be required just after the elbows.

Option 2. Run venting horizontally approximately 3 feet through the chimney brick and out the chimney's exterior wall. A 90 elbow is required. Air flow could also be increased to 8" round.


texts: How can I attach an overflow cover in a bathtub with no access panel?

texts:
Years ago, the builders put the bathtub in the wrong way so that it abuts tile in the bathroom behind it. The only way to put in an access panel or to access the pvc behind the tub would be to either remove the tub and/or tile, an expensive and time consuming process.

Is there an overflow cover that will just snap on with no screws?

I have attached a picture of my predicament.


texts: How can I smooth a rough plaster finish?

texts:
We have the kind of plaster in the images below on our inside dining room walls.
We want to change it to a smooth finish - presumably with drywall and plaster.
I don't know what this current finish is, it was put up by the last owner.

Do you think it would be feasible to remove it with an SDS or should we just batton over it?
I have heard that using an SDS will be messy and time consuming.
However, if it came off in chunks it might be doable.
The room is 3x4x2.4m.

Many thanks.


texts: Water-based vs oil-based primers: longevity in a hot, dry desert

texts:
How does the longevity compare between water-based and oil-based primers in a hot, dry desert (i.e. 100º-110ºF) on wood (e.g. eaves of house) in terms of chipping/peeling/coming off?

Are there any factors that are particularly important or unimportant? Thickness (thin layer vs thick layer vs multiple thin layers)? Cost (expensive vs. cheap)? Application method (roller vs HVLP)? Treatment (full cleaning & sanding vs simply removing existing peeling paint/primer)?


texts:
I just bought this house, and the circuit in the garage was functioning fine.  I have a GFCI and one downstream receptacle on a certain branch.  There are other GFCIs on this circuit, but not in line with these two (as far as I can tell).

After coming back from a trip, I found that two GFCI branches would not hold load.  After replacing the GFCI on one branch, it is functioning well.

I replaced the other GFCI and the downstream still won't take load.  I removed the downstream outlet and replaced it.  In the process, I am finding that whenever I hook the ground up to the downstream receptacle, it will not take load.  If the ground is NOT connected, it will take load.

I can't figure out what changed, or why this is ocurring.

I don't want to just wire nut the ground wire off, but it is tempting.

Any help is appreciated.


texts: Trouble With Wiring New Switch to Replace Old Switch

texts:
I have some very old light switches that power the lights in my kitchen and dining area. There is 2 switches for each light source on each side of the kitchen/dining area, im trying to figure out where what wires go where on my new switches. Ive attached some photos that hopefully will help. Im replacing the old light switches with just basic Leviton flat style switches that toggle up or down. These - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Single-Pole-AC-Quiet-Switch-White-10-Pack-M32-05601-2WM/202204204

So any help would be greatly appreciated


texts: What materials to use replacing a water damaged bathroom ceiling?

texts: I had a leaky roof that caused half the bathroom ceiling to come down. The roof is now fixed. I know I have to remove the rest of the ceiling as well, and dry it out before replacing, and possibly do some mold remediation.  My question is, what do I replace the ceiling with?  Regular gypsum board or is there a special something that needs to go up since it is a bathroom?  Steps would be appreciated. :)  Thanks!


texts: Can I apply polyurethane to new engineered hardwood floors?

texts:
I just laid new engineered Maple 5/8in hardwood floors. They have a dull look.

Can I polyurethane them?


texts: UK Sewage connection - is an external rodding point mandatory

texts:
I have a house extension built circa 1997. Inside there is a three-port shallow inspection chamber where a shower and toilet join to a single 110mm waste outlet heading out of the house.

Outside the house against the wall there is a roddable Bottle Gulley. Upon inspection it has no inlet connections opened, the roddable outlet is simply connected to the aforementioned extension waste outlet via a Y-fitting.

My question is, at the time of building or now, did/does the code specify that an external rodding point should be fitted? I realise it makes sense, but it technically is possible to rod the run to the sewage plant from the inspection chamber inside if required (it's a straight run no bends) (and ok albeit with some mess inside) which negates the need for the rodding point outside.

I am asking because this otherwise unconnected bottle Gulley is in the way of where I want to build a step and I'm not clear whether it's a nice to have and can be removed or is required by regulation.

(FYI the length of pipe between the bottle gully and Y fitting on my drawing is exaggerated, in reality it's right next to it making almost a straight run for rodding)

Many thanks for any guidance
Ian


texts:
I am currently in the process of changing the air handler and heat pump in my house. I am working with a friend's father who does HVAC for a living. He came over and looked at my HVAC system and gave me a list of items to buy. I opted to go with a Goodman 3 ton split system. For the air handler I chose a Goodman ASPT - 3 Ton - Air Handler - Multi-Position - ECM Motor model #ASPT37C14. I saw that the dimensions of the air handler cabinet was 21 by 21. I also was told to get a UPFLOW FURNACE FILTER AND SUPPORT BOX - 21.5" X 28.5 for the return plenum which will sit underneath the air handler. I wanted to know if my return plenum was too big and he mistakenly had me buy one that was too big.  Unfortunately my friend's father is on vacation and not answering and since he is putting my system in as soon as he gets back, I was wondering if I needed a smaller return plenum.

Photo of plenum:


texts:
I know there are several different types of drawer removal mechanisms. (Not sure on the names so feel free to edit)

Free rolling.
These open by simply rolling the drawer fully out and lifting the wheels on the back of the drawer up off the track and then pulling them out.
In track.
These drawers can be removed by rolling the drawer fully out and lifting the two levers on the inside of the track. A YouTube video clearly shows this.
In track, no levers.
No clue how to open this.

Please help!


texts: How can I reduce squeaks in wood floors when no felt paper was installed between floor and plywood?

texts:
I've purchased a home where the previous owner installed 3/4" wide plank pine over a 5/8" plywood subfloor.  The plywood is glued to a concrete slab but there is no felt paper between the 2 woods.  Yes - it squeaks!  They wanted the character but we'd like a little less squeak.

Any ideas on what I could do to reduce (not eliminate) the squeak?


texts: How to fix gaps between laminate flooring and a door

texts:
We moved in to our house just before covid and had a trained "friend" fit our laminate flooring but since have come to realise he hasn't done a very good job and has stopped replying to messages.
Around our front and back door, there are gaps between the door and laminate flooring. What would be best to fill these? I am completely new to DIY so need as much help as possible!
Photos below.
Thanks,
Lauren


texts: Basic power tool set for Home repair and simple projects

texts:
I have a feeling this has been asked before, but I didn't find it here.  I've read a number of websites and there always seem to be a little fluff and maybe this favorite tool or that.

I'm thinking about putting together some basic home repair toolboxes for my twin boys who recently moved out on their own.  They already have sets of mechanics tools, needle nose pliers, ratchet sets, and so on, and one boy has a set of electronics tools, but if anything goes funky in the house, I get the call or at least have to loan them my tools.

Here is what I'm thinking So far:

Corded Power Drill
Corded Circular Saw
100' heavy duty Extension Cord
Level
Speed Square
Bit Drivers
Hand Saw
C-Clamps
Miter Box
Hammer
Crow Bar
Saw Horse clamps
Black and Decker Workhorse table and vise thingy.
A wheeled dolly kind of toolbox, think Stanley Fat Max thing.

What else would you recommend?  What unnecessary fluff have I included?  Are there name brands that are good, but not extremely expensive.  What name brands to avoid.

Edit:  As I am not a consistent power tool user, I tend to distrust cordless tools.  I know battery tech is vastly beyond what I used to use, but there is nothing more aggravating than not being able to use a tool because a dead battery.  If they were to make a corded adapter for a cordless tool I'd be all over it.  Also, My corded Ryobi drill has lasted more than 20 years, so....


texts: Is it legal for a home/condo owner to do any electric work in Chicago?

texts:
As of June 18th, 2018, the City of Chicago Department of Buildings poses the following in their FAQ.

  Q: Can owners do their own electrical work?

  A: No. Due to the potential for electric shock or fire hazard, only Electrical Contractors licensed by the City of Chicago can perform electrical installations.

The question Can owners do their own electrical work? seems unambiguous, but referring to an installation in the answer muddies the waters for me as that term is not defined on the site, and makes me think there may be a certain threshold of project difficulty that owners can or cannot legally take on.

If that's the case, where's the line? I can't install anything on my own? Not a replacement light fixture? Not a light switch? A thermostat? The website seems rather vague and I've found no other official documentation.

I've reached out to the Department of Buildings several times, and have received no response to my question.

I find it all the more confusing because major companies like Home Depot make it seem like these projects are very simple and gear their online materials towards average home owners, not professionals. They don't mention (in the materials I've read) even considering to consult a professional electrician. Perhaps some could argue that's implied, but I would disagree based on how they phrase things.

  Hanging a ceiling fan is a project just about anyone can complete.

  ...

  Easily replace your light fixture with a new one thanks to this informative video from The Home Depot.

I doubt many people would even consider an electrician when buying/installing something like a Nest thermostat, which has a detailed video explaning how to install the device on your own. Yet, it involves some electrical wiring, and it seems a DIY install could very well be restricted by local law.

  In most homes, installing a Nest thermostat is an easy DIY project that takes 20-30 min. Follow the detailed steps in this article or watch the installation video to learn how to install your thermostat.

Even if I have done the research and feel confident that I could do it, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Electricity can certainly be very dangerous, so I can understand if municipalties put restrictions on that sort of work. It's just a bit confusing to figure out what, if any, electrical work I can do.

I realize it's unreasonable to expect an authoritative answer, but was hoping for locals and/or professionals in the industry who might have insight into this and can weigh in


texts: My brand new hot water baseboard heater doesn't give off much heat

texts: My home was recently converted from oil to gas and from old school radiators to hot water baseboard. All of the other baseboards in the house get very hot, except for the one in the living room. It gets warm, not hot. What can I do?


texts: Drywall hole slightly too large for mounting bracket to cover

texts:
I'm trying to replace a ceiling mounted wireless access point and I've hit a snag. The old one was mounted inside the drywall, instead of over top of it. The new one comes with a mounting bracket, but the screw holes for the bracket don't quite clear the hole from the old one.

Anyone have any ideas for how I might solve this? I'm thinking worst case is I just patch the hole and shift the new one over a bit, but I'd like to avoid patching if possible.


texts:
I have this basketball from previous owner of the house and it's concreted to the ground. Now after many years (I assume), it's rusted and broken on top.

I am wondering what is the best way to connect the two pieces without replacing it:

Is there some metal bracket that I can wrap around and bolt into both pieces?

Any idea? Thanks.


texts: Metal doors, Mortise locks, and ... mobile liner?

texts:
Spent last night retrofitting a fancy electronic combination lock on a metal door for the first time, and encountered something I don't understand.

The door has previously had another mortise lock, so I assumed it was set up for the American Standard Mortise and this would just be a matter of drilling the additional holes to support the lock body. I was half right; it was ASM and the mortise body it without any trouble. There turned out to be a problem with different knob center and having to enlarge that hole from 3/4" to 1" and shift it upward a bit, but that was expected.

What I didn't expect was a battle drilling the mounting holes. Drill first hole, no problem. Drill second... and first is suddenly partly blocked by an internal piece. I had to continue arguing with that for the remaining four holes above and below the lock body.. If I'd known to expect that, I'd have brought a bunch of dowels or extra drill bits or something to try to stabilize the position of that... but I didn't expect it, and I'm still having trouble explaning it.

Question: Why would there be an apparently mobile sheet-metal inner box within the mortise opening? Is this a normal part of the design of these doors (and if so is it general or manufacturer-specific), or is it something a previous locksmith added to strengthen the door (seems unlikely), or was it something that should have been spot-welded in place but wasn't, or...?


texts:
I own a hammer drill (DeWalt d25263). I was using it today, and everything went well. But as I removed the SDS chisel bit that I was using, I saw a good bit of grease on the shank of the bit. I've never seen this before.
I'm worried that the tool has been compromised. The instructions say to take the drill to a repair shop to have it cleaned and lubricated after use. I would like to know how to clean and lubricate it myself.
I looked for videos on YouTube but didn't find anything that was helpful. Can you please tell me how to clean and lubricate a hammer drill?


texts: I am currently installing a Pergo-like interlocking, floor system in my kitchen. I noticed after finishing one area that two of the flooring strips had separated about 1/16th of an inch a few rows back from where I currently am. Is there a way to get those two to pull back together without having to take several pieces back up to do it?


texts: Can I cut the shower seal that is tearing or do I have to replace the whole seal?

texts:
On my glass shower door, the outer seal of the under sweep is tearing. (I think it's called the under sweep based on other questions I've seen on this site but I could be wrong).
Can I cut the piece that is tearing so that it stops or do I have to replace the whole seal?


texts: Can you run 230v powertool on single pole 20 amp breaker?

texts:
(Location: Ontario Canada if that makes a difference)

I want to run a 230V 1 PHASE 9.6 AMP table saw. I only have a single 15amp breaker that is not being used left in my panel.

To run the saw, is it enough to replace the 15amp breaker with a single-pole 20amp breaker and wire a new outlet into it (realizing the wiring needs to be compatible with 20amps)? Or do I need a double pole breaker?


texts: What type of switch will allow two lights to operate individually or all at once?

texts:
I have two sets of LED lights and I'm looking for a single switch that will allow for the following options:

OFF
LED set 1 ON
LED sets 1 and 2 ON (both on)

I don't have extensive training in electrical or circuits, but I am pretty handy and for the life of me can't figure out a way to wire the above scenario. Everything I think of will seemingly turn on both sets no matter what. I can't figure out how to isolate one LED set on the same switch as powering both. Anyone have any ideas?


texts: I have a situation where there are two apartments and one laundry room.  Room for 1 washer and 1 dryer.  There are 2 circuit boxes and 2 meters.  We want to have a run for each circuit panel the dryer outlet.  Thereby flipping the breaker to run each apartments laundry so each pays their own way.  Is that possible?


texts:
3 tiles (20cm by 30cm == 8in by 12in) fell off the floor on the outside balcony.
The substance (concrete+sand?) that was supposed to cement them to the underlying floor is mostly sand (crumbles in my fingers).
The tiles should be flush with the surviving tiles, so the adhesive I use has to provide a few millimeters of thickness.
What do I do?
Should I just clean out the "sand" and fill the space between floor and the tiles with Construction Adhesive?
Should I mix the adhesive with sand (to provide more volume so that the re-attached tiles are level with the old ones)? If rainwater gets under the tiles and freezes in the winter, it will dislodge the tiles again, so I must make sure there is no empty space under the tiles...


texts: How to choose from options from house painting company?

texts:
I recently had someone from a painting company visit my house to give an estimate.

He gave me three options:

(1) the cheapest paint, six year warranty, $3000

(2) a thicker paint, nine year warranty, $4000

(3) two coats of the paint from (1), fourteen year warranty, $5000

It is quite obvious that if I expected the paint to immediately begin peeling as soon as the warranty expires, (3) is the best deal.

However, I don't know enough about paint to have any idea how long these three different paint jobs are likely to last.

How can I compare these three options to make the best selection, assuming that I use this company?

Update: I just realized that I failed to specify that I'm speaking only about the exterior of the house.


texts: Mini Split condensate pump to condensate drain

texts:
I'm working out the details of my Mini split.

I know by code I have to have it connected to a 3/4" condensate line going outside.  The Mini Split's air handler is located on an inside room where I'm forced to use a condensate pump.  I currently have the condensate pump pushing out water directly via a clear hose 3/8ic hose and it's fine for now, but I want it to code.

My initial idea is to have a PVC with an elbow inside the attic to outside, and put a 3/8" bib on the end closest to the air handler and let it pump away and make sure there is a downward incline in the hose to make sure the water runs out of the house.  Is this the best way? do I need a tee fitting like my whole home AC unit (  straight pipe with some sort of T fitting with no pipe on the top, and it continues out the house )?

I'm looking at doing something similar to this: https://youtu.be/HJwFgi3D-6g?t=58  at the 58 second mark

Just trying to get an idea of what I need to do.  Seems straight forward, but I know that nothing is ever what it seems when you don't know what you don't know.


texts: I'm hoping to run two 240 V 50 A outlets for an ARC welder.  One will be outside and the other inside the shop.  If I install a double pole double throw switch such that only one receptacle  can be energized at a time, would the two receptacles be allowed by NEC to be on a single breaker in the load center?


texts: Safe to screw on a paper towel holder way above socket?

texts: I'm probably overthinking it, but I'm trying to mount the SimpleHuman horizontal paper towel holder. It turns out that the best place for it is in the middle of the inner wall (5.1 inch wide) but above a socket which is located on the bottom of the wall. The three screws are about 1.1 inch each. I'm not drilling a hole, just using a normal mechanical screwdriver. Is this a concern at all?


texts: Can a switchover to backup power be seamless for a whole house?

texts:
We're contemplating a backup generator for the house. Most of them have transfer switches that kick in quickly, and automatically, but naturally the generator has to start, spin up, and stabilize before switching over.

Is there a way to make that cutover seamless so the house doesn't notice? Basically, a "whole house UPS" that just needs to last 5-10 minutes. Both for the switch over from line to backup power and vice-a-versa.

Addenda:

We live in California where the power company is shutting the grid down for public safety reasons due to fires. Before, power failures were essentially very rare Acts of God with storms and drunk drivers. Now, during certain parts of the year, they're policy. But even so, the companies issue lots of "might" and "maybe" and "sometime" notices as to when, and where, they might turn the power off. As a consumer, we don't know when it will go out, and when it does go out it can be for several days. And, yes, it can be during some of the hottest parts of the year. A/C is routine in many parts of California.

I'm exploring this simply as I mentioned -- it can be a pain to "reboot" a modern house with it's zillion electronic appliances, devices, etc. If I don't have to, I'd like not to. Since I'm exploring the idea of backup power in the first place, I'm exploring what it might take to go that "last mile" to make it seamless.

We have glanced at the Power Wall, I was simply off-put by it's initial sticker shock compared to a conventional generator. I'm in the early phases of this process.


texts: Differences in wall/floor framing based on region.


texts: How to add GFCI to a box with one outlet controlled by a switch?

texts:
I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to electrical work, though I do know my way around a circuit diagram, thanks to some EE courses in college.  I think this is one I can do myself, I just would like some validation that I understand the wiring correctly and that my plan is acceptable.

Current Configuration

I have an outlet and single pole switch in one box next to the sink in my kitchen.  The switch controls the top outlet, and has plugged into it a fluorescent light that is mounted above the sink.  The bottom outlet is always hot, and I currently have my microwave plugged into it.  I opened up the box to look at the wiring (with the breaker off, of course), here's a sketch of what it currently looks like inside:

One additional note on the setup - my fridge is connected to the same breaker as this outlet, and I'm 90% sure it's further down the line.  I'd rather not put the fridge on the GFCI load, as I don't want my food to rot if it randomly trips while I'm out.

Questions

I want to protect the outlets next to the sink with GFCI, but I want to keep one of the sockets controlled by a switch, and I don't think I want to put the rest of the circuit on the GFCI load, because I don't want the fridge on GFCI.

What's the simplest and/or best way to rewire to achieve this?
I'm not sure which of the lines leading into the box comes from the breaker box - is there an easy way to test this?
Is there an easy way to test for sure whether or not the fridge outlet is before or after the sink outlet?

Tentative plan

I know I can get a GFCI/switch combo unit at Lowe's for ~$30.  I'm thinking I could replace the switch with that, and wire the existing regular outlet to the load end of the GFCI (with the top outlet wired through the switch), but have the rest of the circuit wired to the line (i.e. not on the GFCI load).  I think this does what I want, plus gives me a bonus GFCI-protected outlet by the sink.

Something like the first diagram in the answer to this question, actually, except with the top outlet connected in place of the garbage disposal, and the bottom outlet also connected to the load.

Does this sound reasonable?


texts:
I have 4 basement lights wired off one switch. There are 3 blacks and 3 whites at the first light. I tried the notes posted here from 2019 (below). When wired this way, 3 lights come on and off only with the breaker and the first light operates with the switch. Now what?
INFO FROM 2019 POST:

So your box has only 3 cables. That means it's most likely wired up like this

Incoming cable from the previous fixture or circuit breaker
Outgoing cable to the next fixture
Cable to the light switch (looks like this might be the blue cable)

It looks like you nutted the wires all together. So somewhere in there you have a hot and a switched hot. When you flip your switch, you're creating a bridge between the hot and neutral, and thus your circuit breaker trips because you hit that max amperage instantly.
The good news here is that you can see the cables and where they go. What you need to do is follow the cables and label them. Then we're going to modify the box as such

Connect all the bare ground wires together and nut them off. Add your fixture ground into this.
Connect the incoming and outgoing white wires together with the white wire from your fixture and nut them off (very important the white wire to your switch is not in here)
Connect the incoming and outgoing black wires AND the white wire from your switch. Use a black sharpie to mark that white wire so it's clear that it is a hot wire. Nut them off
Connect the black wire from your switch (last wire left) to your fixture's black wire. Nut them off.