texts: Power cut out while running floor maintainer - breaker blown?

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I was running a floor maintainer in my home yesterday, and after a few minutes the power to that circuit just stopped. I went and flipped the breaker a couple times, but no changes. I noticed that the circuit I was using was (for whatever reason) ran as a 15amp - I assume this is why it tripped.

I'm pretty clueless on electrical work here - what would be my next step to figure out how extensive the problem is?

More worrisome is that it appears that one of the bedroom's circuits is now no longer working as well. I'm not 100% sure it occurred at the same time, but that's my assumption for now. I don't understand why this would happen though, because the two rooms are on opposite ends of the home. I wouldn't think they'd put both on the same circuit?


texts: What is this plastic insert called? (Secures a wood screw to a cabinet door.)

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The European hinges on my kitchen cabinet doors are held in place with wood screws that anchor into plastic inserts - see the picture below.  The one on the right is cracked.  I would like to replace it but I do not know what it is called.  What are these little plastic insert/anchors called?  Thanks.

(The yellow/translucent stuff stuck on the cabinet door near the anchor on the right seems to be glue that someone else tried to use to repair the split anchor.  The anchors themselves fit in the holes, like the one on the left.)


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My wife purchased a kiln that requires a 30 amp breaker, has NEMA 5-20 plug. We are going to put it in the shed but the price to run electric to the shed is not affordable.

Can I use the 240v outlet for my dryer to run a NEMA L6-30P extension cord with a 30Amp L5-30P to 15/20Amp NEMA adapter to the shed?

kiln - http://www.clay-king.com/kilns/skutt_kilns/skutt_km_614_3.html

extension - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7X7W61/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A15AM8MHT45F3Q&psc=1

adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MGJ2F4/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thank you.

FOLLOW UP QUESITON:

Thank you all for your time. Very much appreciate it.

It does appear there is no ground wire, however, there is a outlet right next to it that does have a ground wire. Can it be utilized?

UPDATE:

I think there is a ground wire hiding under the black..


texts: Installing door in 2x6 wall (drywall only on 1 side)

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Renovating my basement and I have 3 doors to install. Planning to install 2 prehung doors in the first 2 locations (2x4 walls with drywall on both sides).

Not sure what to do about the 3rd. It will go in a 2x6 wall leading to a workshop that will remain unfinished (no drywall). I want the door to swing into this space. Is this a case where I need to purchase a slab door and do the framing myself?

I know you can install jamb extensions for a 2x6 wall. But if I go with the prehung, should I just fasten the casing to the unfinished studs in the workshop?


texts: How do I seal a crack in flex pipe for a lawn sprinkler system?

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I have an underground rubber hose with an one inch crack in it.  I am hoping I could just seal it, but I don't know what to use and I don't want to make it worse.

Is it worth trying to seal it or are these kind of cracks unfix-able?

I was thinking of using contact cement to close it and maybe reinforce it with this waterproof epoxy putty I found.


texts: Name of door/cabinet knob that operates two bolts at once

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I've seen knobs that when twisted operate two bolts, however I can't find them online because I don't know what they are called.

An example might be on cabinet where a knob in the center of one door has a bolt to the top and bottom. I think I've seen it usually where the bolts are surface mounted on the inside of the door.


texts: Is it possible to make my own DIY one way mirror

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One way glass and perspex is quite expensive.  But regular perspex is not.

I've seen some mirror finish sprays.  Has anyone tried successfully to make a one way mirror using those or perhaps another method?

The purpose of the one way mirror is to put it in front of a flat screen TV that is hanging on my wall.  I want to hide this monstrosity and am open to all ideas.  The mirror idea appeals the most but a professionally made mirror TV is far too expensive.


texts: Is it possible to remove tile that is the third layer of flooring on top of asbestos tiles?

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We are planning on tearing out our upstairs bathroom and relocating it so we make room for an extra bedroom. The bathroom is in really bad shape: last remodel was in the late 80's, but at some point since then a tile floor (that super cheap, really ugly 1.5"X1.5" square, ivory, box store crap) was put on top of some hideous linoleum which is on top of intact asbestos. My house is 110 years old. Yep. Three layers of flooring. Typical I guess.

Obviously, adding yet another layer is unacceptable. Besides the weight issue (I would think), our plan would eliminate the wall between the hall and the (former) bathroom leaving an almost 3" difference in height in what would be the middle of the room. Adding more flooring to the hall area is just stupid and would make our already low ceilings (it's a 3/4 story upstairs) seem lower.

Is it feasible to remove the tile (at least) and it's subfloor (1/8 inch unidentified substrate) without disturbing the asbestos? I can deal with covering the linoleum layer with a new 3rd layer of carpeting or laminate but refuse to put a 4th layer of flooring in this area. Ideally, I'd like to also remove the 2nd layer (linoleum and plywood) and just have to deal with re-encapsulating the asbestos, but I am willing to take what I can get here.

I really can't afford to even think about abatement. My budget is already maxed out w/the plumbing necessary for this project.

For clarification, the floor layers in the bathroom are as follows from the top down: ceramic tile (thinset), 1/8" subfloor, linoleum, 1/4" plywood, asbestos, asbestos containing adhesive (I presume based on age of the house and typical installation), subfloor of unknown thickness/type.

I have 4 children (12, 7, 5, and 1.5) in the house, so safety is a priority, but like I said, I have a budget and I can't spend it all on an all out abatement project. I just want to know if I can expect to have less than 4" of flooring when this project is done.


texts:
I know this sounds like a silly question and it may be closed before it may get a single answer but there is something strange in my house which beeps infrequently. I tried to troubleshoot the sound but no luck. I thought may be its coming from the living room but there is nothing special in the living room which may make a beep sound.

Can someone point me what should i look for to figure out what is making this sound?


texts: What part malfunction could cause a washer abruptly, orderly terminate cycle and freeze?

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I have an old Bosch Nexxt washer that would lock the door properly, start the wash cycle, get the water in the drum (I can see both hoses have flow), then suddenly the "wash" light would turn off, it would drain all the water in an orderly manner (again, I can see it drain freely into the sink, in fact I've replaced the pump because it was making weird noises, to no avail), then unlock the door as if the cycle has ended, and just sit there with the timer stuck at 32-55 mins (depending on the program), lock light on, and no buttons working. No error codes. It can sit like that overnight.
In fact even the drain cycle gets stuck like that even though the pump is new and the water does get drained, it would just unlock the door and sit there with 0:02 remaining.
The belt seems to be fine and the drum rotates fine, too and doesn't wobble unreasonably, although I'm not an expert on that.
Anything else obvious to replace?


texts:
I need to tile a floor in my house (concrete slab) where there was some vinyl tiles that were put down with some type of yellow mastic. Can I mortar and tile over this mastic or does the floor need to have this stuff scraped or stripped off first?

The holes/divits in the picture are from me removing carpet tack strips from the concrete that were put over the old flooring when the bathroom was carpeted (ick!).


texts: Thermostatic Shower doesn't give cold showers? Normal?

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I have recently purchased a home with a Thermostatic shower and when at the coldest setting the water was hot. I did some researched and changed the temperature cartridge and now the water is warm. if I turn off the hot-water then I get 100% cold water (so I know the water is flowing and it connected to the right place).

My question - when I turn to coldest setting I was expecting 100% cold water (like on every other shower I ever had), but the guy at the store is telling me that with a thermostatic shower you cannot have a "cold shower", only warm ...

Does this make any sense?
Thanks,


texts: Repair frayed electrical wire with strain-relief stopper

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I am shocked at the condition of this wire on a Crane humidifier. Would like to repair the wire to return the device to being 100% safe.

With there being plenty of "spare" wire in the 6ft length, I am thinking to cut the wire at the fray, and then route inside and crimp new connections.

I don't think there is much in the existing crimped connections to consider leaving those as-is and splice the wire at a later point, right?

My main question lies in how to replace the "stopper" (big white plastic piece) that is actually part of the white wire? This provides relief to the internal wiring and I worry just using the internal screw-down posts will not be sufficient (the manufacturer had both).


texts:
I'm about to commission a total refit and rewire of a one bedroom apartment in Spain. I'm considering completely skipping a conventional 220v lighting circuit, and replacing it with a solar-battery-12v LED based installation. My fag packet calculation (taking into account, losses and winter sun-hours) reckons a 100W panel and 30Ah battery will be enough.

For me the pros are cost (as I need some areas lit throughout the day), and the ability to easily wire in Arduinos to provide smart switching.

Are there any pitfalls or downsides?


texts: Must I completely remove tile adhesive before I paint my basement floor?

texts: My basement floor years ago had a tiled floor. Tiles were adhered with what looked like a black tar type adhesive. Tiles came loose and were removed. Even though the floor is smooth I am unable to get all the substance off the floor. Can this stuff be painted over or do I have to retire the floor. Prefer to paint if possible.


texts: With circuit off, why would neutral wires spark and lights on a different circuit flash?

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70 year old house with a breaker panel that was upgraded from fuses about 20 years ago. A couple new circuits were added at that time for the kitchen and laundry room, but the wiring in this particular situation is all the original.
Replacing a ceiling fixture, I turned off the breaker for the circuit that the fixture is on and removed the old fixture. There are four white neutrals bundled together into a old rusty wire nut (I have a new red one ready to go,) and a single black hot wire. This box is controlled by a single switch.
I removed all the wire nuts and old mounting bracket, and was screwing in the new mounting bracket - nudging the bundled neutrals around in order to do so - when there was a tiny spark on the neutral tips and lights on a nearby circuit flashed. Happened so quickly I wasn't sure I hadn't imagined it.
I jostled the neutral bundle around a bit and no reaction, so I continued. When I went to pull the neutral bundle through the new bracket in order to get ready for the new fixture wire, a definite spark flew and the lights on that nearby circuit completely went out. Wiggled the neutrals some more and power was restored to the other circuit.
Promptly put the nuts back on the exposed wires and let it be. Time to call a pro but what would be happening here? I've been in this house for 30 years and have personally replaced all the fixtures, plus most switches and outlets at one point or another and I have never run into an issue like this. Am I correct in guessing that the neutrals on this circuit are in contact with a hot wire on that adjacent circuit - either by loose connections, or worn insulation?
Thanks,
Jamie


texts: I need to replace the spring-loaded lighting cover for the light in the tub

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Anyone know where I can get a trim kit for this basic round ceiling light?

It has an outer edge/flange that seats against the ceiling and there is a plastic light cover inside the outer edge. It has a rubber gasket that fits against the opening of the light and it has the 2 spring loaded tension wires that get squeezed together to remove and replace the entire fixture.

The part of the wire clip that is bent around the plastic inner seal broke off and the rubber gasket is deteriorated. I dont need the fixture inside the ceiling where the bulb is. I just need the entire one piece outer covering - about 6 inches wide.


texts: Adding French doors in bedroom and bathroom. Can I do this without structural engineer?

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I would like to add french doors in my bed room and my bathroom.  I am not sure if I would need a structural engineer for this.  I have my blueprints of my bedroom and bathroom.
If I sent picture could you let me know if it is causing me to get an engineer and if I am damaging the structural part of the house?


texts: What is required to relocate a garbage disposal?

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I have a garbage disposal in my two well sink, only problem is when it was installed, it was placed on the left side of the sink -- closest to the dishwasher, further from the stove. When I'm cooking, which I do frequently, I abuse the right side of the sink constantly rinsing and clearing plates and tools of food into it, since it's closest to where I'm working.

Aside from learning how to cope with a disposal being too far away, is it fiesable to move the disposal to the other side of the sink, will it fit, if it will what types of tools will I need to complete the job.

I'm assuming, if it is possible, I'll need to re-cut some of the pipework to fit the new setup, though I imagine I'll be able to salvage most of the current joints.


texts: Use of multi outlet adapter with dehumidifier

texts: Is it safe to use a multi outlet adapter with dehumidifier?    And if not, why?   Have only one outlet near the dehumidifier and won’t use extension cord as not recommended.  Thank you.


texts: Trouble matching a screw - are there sizes I may be overlooking?

texts:
I am trying to mount a new light fixture which has a decorative head for the screws that hold the fixture to the plate.
One of the screws is too long for the existing fixture, so I attempted to look for the same screw but 1/4" in shorter.
I took the screw and decorative nut to the hardware store to try matching the size.  I am 99% sure the screw is 32 threads/inch by comparison with an 8-32 screw at the store.  However, the 8-32 screw is barely too large for the decorative nut, and a 6-32 is too small.
I looked into metric screws, and M4-0.70 is too large and M3 too small.
What might I be missing here?  My other option is to just cut the existing screw, but I'd rather figure out what's going on first, just in case.


texts: How to run an extension cord through a tight space

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There's a space between my hearth and the wall that I can run coax cable through to a TV but it is too tight to get an extension cord through to that TV. It is only about 1/2 inch wide; the hearth was originally designed to be freestanding, but has been screwed to the wall to improve its stability.

I'm thinking of cutting a standard extension cord and re-splicing it on the other side. But of course this rubs me the wrong way.

What other options do I have that are safe?  Maybe there's a low-profile type of extension cord that is designed for this kind of thing?


texts: Aprilaire 700 humidifier not working properly

texts: The fan does not seem to be running.  How can I determine what the problem is?   I'm not sure if it's the fan, solenoid or the computer board.


texts: Can I add a light fixture (with a switch) to an existing switch/outlet circuit?

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I'd like to drywall/finish the 'closet' under my stairs, but I'd like to add a light fixture with a switch inside the closet first.  Inside this closet already, the back of an outlet box and the back of a light switch box (and wiring between them) are accessible.  That switch, which I'll call switch #1, toggles the outlet, which is for the room adjacent to this closet.  I want to add a 2nd switch, inside the closet, which toggles a light in the closet, independently of switch #1.  Is this possible?  (EDIT: Can someone explain and/or show me with a diagram how this might be possible?)

The wires in the circuit are 14/2 with ground.

Basic representation:

I have a very basic understanding of circuits and I know that black is generally hot and white is generally neutral, so here is what (I think?) is a more correct representation of how it's already wired:


texts: Ejector pump instead of sump pump in basement

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I need both groundwater drainage as well as laundry room sewage pump in basement.
Should they be separate pumps (asump pit with pump and 40 liter sewage ejector reservoir with pump) or could ground water drainage be connected directly to ejector pump reservoir?
If so, any precautions need to be made to avoid sewage water going under the floor in drainage pipes? Or does that add too many risks and best to go with two separate systems?


texts: What is the "required" amount when using Plumber's Putty

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I have a new stainless steel sink and installed a Kohler sink flange following their package instructions. The instructions for putty only stipulated "apply a ring of putty."  However, subsequently, I find the instructions regarding the flange for the disposal I am installing on the other side stipulates a ring "half an inch thick." The ring in a flange installation online video shows a ring about that applied to the area in opening and the flange fit into that.  Other online instructions show 1/8" (which mine probably was) to 1/4" thick.  When I set the flange, putty came out pretty much all around...but not much.

Question: 1) if I got excess all around, is it set in "enough" and 2) if not and I have leakage underneath when water is run into new sink, is it set "permanent" or will it release fairly easily once I remove screws and tightened ring?


texts:
I've just moved into a new place, and the hood fan in the kitchen takes Par 20 bulbs. I had some left over LED Par 20s from my last place, so when one burned out, I installed it, and then I replaced the other one with an LED while I was at it.

Once I did that, the light would no longer turn off. There are three brightness settings on the switch, but when I turn it off, it just gets slightly dimmer.

I suppose I could just put back the regular Par 20 bulb, but I'd prefer to save the 56 watts if I can. Any ideas on how to resolve this?


texts: Should I seal around the base of a bath/shower?

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I was planning on putting caulk around the base of my bath/shower, but I have been told by someone that it is preferable not to seal the bottom of a bath as it "prevents it from being able to breath" (which I assume, but don't know for sure, means they are saying any moisture under the unit will not be able to evaporate).

However, to me this seems counter-intuitive. If the bottom was sealed, that would prevent an obvious route for moisture to get under the unit.

The bath is fiber-glass, against a tiled wall which the shower head is mounted to. The flooring running to the edge of the base is linoleum.

Should I seal or shouldn't I?


texts: Is it OK to mount a smoke detector vertically?

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In my basement I have several lolly columns attached to wooden beams that are supporting the floor joists.  On one of these wooden beams I have attached a smoke detector vertically on the side of the beam instead of at the bottom of it, mainly to avoid someone knocking the smoke detector with their head since there is low clearance.  The detector is next to the lolly, not directly over it.

Here's a 2D picture (not to scale):

I can mount the smoke detector to the joist in the typical horizontal ceiling type of fashion, but is it OK to mount it vertically?  Will its effectiveness be reduced or compromised?


texts: What are the different ways to dry the winding of a water-logged pump?

texts:
A follow-up to How does one determine whether a waterlogged High HP pump is electrically OK to use?

Several sites on the internet indicate it may be possible to dry the windings on a waterlogged pump using electricity. This is done by a low DC voltage to the pump, and allowing the windings to heat to the extent the water evaporates. Another method recommended is to apply low voltage AC to run the pump.

How would you go about drying the windings?

p.s. Please apply community tag to the question ; there may be more than one right answer ... and I'm hoping they will all be useful.


texts: Why does this pipe feeding a hot water heater dip down like this?

texts: This is a cold water pipe just in front of the hot water heater it is feeding. Why is it shaped that way? What is its function?


texts: Why is my solid oak entry door cracking?

texts: We just bought a custom oak front door in June. It’s December of the same year and it’s cracking. I used tung oil to seal it. Applied 3 coats in June and again in October. Everything I’ve read about tung oil says it’s a superior exterior product because it cures. So is it a door issue? Should we contact the company?  I understand doors expand with weather and humidity, but there’s are cracks large enough to see through and feel cold air coming in.


texts: Connecting standpipe to 1 1/2" brass waste pipe?

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I am remodeling a 100-year-old house, adding plumbing for a washing machine and condensing dryer. I'm installing the washing machine and dryer in the basement. In the location where I want it to go, there is a 1 1/2" brass waste pipe coming up vertically from the basement floor, about 3 inches or so. The main waste stack is about 2.75 feet away.

I believe I need to install a tee fitting, connect a waste arm to it, connect a p trap to the waste arm and a standpipe to the p trap ... similar to the below picture (except with a standpipe connected to the p trap and not a sink).

Questions

How do I connect the tee fitting to the brass drain pipe? Is a rubber reducing fitting OK?
Is my methodology correct?
The p trap needs to be 2" as per code, is it OK that the brass pipe is only 1 1/2" ?


texts: Electrical outlet above HVAC air return, within same wall cavity

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Q: Is an outlet above the HVAC air return considered within the environmental air space?
We need to move the HVAC air return in one of our rooms, and there is an existing electrical outlet in the most convenient spot. Rather than remove the electrical outlet, I was thinking about just moving it up a foot or so to make room for the new air return grill, as shown here:

My understanding based on NEC is that the space between the studs through which the air will be flowing from the grill to the furnace is covered by 300.22(C) "Other Space Used for Environmental Air". What I can't figure out is whether the same rules apply if the outlet is located above the HVAC air return. Theoretically, the air flow would be downward from the grill, so it would not flow past the outlet; however, there is no barrier within the space between the studs to separate the outlet from the HVAC air flow.
Clarifying Edit: The return air is not enclosed in a duct; this is an old (1920s) house, and it just uses the stud bays for the air return.


texts:
We had been using this basin shower head attachment happily for a while, until a plumber came to replace the taps due to a leakage. The new taps (like the old ones) happen to be a pair of hot and cold non-mixer British/Irish taps but (unlike the old ones) with a smaller diameter, and here's the problem! The shower head attachment does not fit the tap anymore.

I've been to almost all local DIY stores, asking for an adapter, but they have no clue where I can find such a thing!

The diameter of the new tap is 1/2", and the shower head attachment has the two M22 internal, and M24 external threads.

We previously had fit M24 thread by just pushing and squeezing the tap head into it (which is possibly unlike the intended use), but that was fitting the tap perfectly well and it was functioning as expected.

Could you advise me what/where to look for to find an adapter/solution to this problem?

P.S. We cannot replace the taps again, because we've rented this place and the landlord doesn't care about our shower head attachment.

As you can see in images below (A1 & A2), when you turn on the tap, the water comes down as expected normally; now if you press the button on the shower head, it'll disconnect the water running down to the basin through the tap, and will direct it to the hose and the shower head.

What he had previously done was to squeeze the tap into the M24 head on picture D and that was working; but now I need some adapter that will allow attaching either of these to a 1/2" thread.

In case you need to learn more about the details of this product, you can see the manual here.


texts: Has our new septic tank been properly waterproofed?

texts:
We have a new septic tank made of solid stone masonry. The masonry is held together by cement mortar and has been plastered with cement plaster.

A professional working on the job has ensured us that the tank is waterproof (i.e. it should not egress water into the soil.) However, posts online are telling me that neither masonry, mortar or plaster are waterproof.

So is this guy totally wrong? Do we need to apply a waterproofing system to the septic tank?


texts: I'm building a sandbox from playground border. It will have landscape screen on the bottom so it drains. Is it better to have a mesh cover just to keep out debris and critters or a waterproof cover? My worry with a waterproof cover is mildew/mold on the cover itself and making a dark cozy place for insects to take up residence and lay eggs (I'm ok with bugs, but I don't want to put up a welcome sign). My worry with a mesh cover is the sandbox becoming a lake when it rains and never fully drying.


texts: Door handle not opening fully (not retracting door latch)

texts: I have taken apart the handle to try and fix it. The issue is I cannot physically turn the door handle enough to retract the latch. Can I fix this?


texts: How can I fix a toilet flapper that isn't sealing due to mildew buildup?

texts: I believe I have pink slime on toilet flapper and "base" of toiler fill valve. The toilet is running. I believe it is not sealing because of the pink slime. Any ideas?


texts: Changing a 2way & a 1 way AU light switch to a smart light switch

texts:
I have purchased a 1 gang and a 2 gang smart switch with the back as thi 1st picture.  The attached are the existing wiring points.  Currently the single and 1 of the 2 gang operates the hall and the 2nd of the 2 gang operates the porch.
How to I wire them up?[]


texts: Are split receptacles wired with #14 appropriate in a bedroom?

texts:
In my bedroom I found four split receptacles at 14 gauge wire connected to the switch. Is this okay by NEC standards to have in bedrooms? The reason was that the previous owners moved their furniture in the room around.

In the other bedroom same situation except that it is tamper whereby it has 2 different 14 gauge circuits. In the panel box I have too shut off two breakers. Again this. Was done 30 yrs ago. Is there a way for me to correct this (if it is a Nec problem)? Walk me through this please. Is this truly tamper?
Can it be corrected at the switch? Or do I get a double breaker connecting both those circuits to it.?
The problem is that both of these different circuits connect hallway lights and the other connects to another bedroom and even a front room light.


texts: What are the differences among "TSP" cleaners?

texts:
A quick search turns up the following categories:

Actual  TSP (trisodium phosphate)
TSP-PF (phosphate free) - what's the significance?
TSP "substitute" - still not clear what this actually means

"Trisodium Phosphate removes greasy, sooty dirt and prepares surface for repainting" is a typical description.

What are the practical differences among these alternatives? I assume they can't all function identically.


texts: How do I solve my problems with a paper faced outside corner bead coming loose?

texts:
I'm doing drywall work around where the outside corner of my tray ceiling vertical meets the regular ceiling. I bought paper-faced metal corner beads and spray adhesive thinking it would be quicker than nailing it up. I followed all the directions: I let the adhesive get tacky before installing the bead, firmly pressed the bead in place on the wall/ceiling, continued to press it to the wall/ceiling for the next few minutes, and then waited half an hour before the first coat of mud.

Now I've got a crack in the mud running the entire length of the bead, and the bead is "spongy" to the touch. If I push against it, it gives between 1/16-1/8" or so, and doesn't feel solid. I figure the crack is from the rather thick coat of mud I applied to make the corner square, but I don't think it should have that much give to it. Should I tear it out and use a nailed-in corner bead? Or will another coat of mud somehow fix the problem?

EDIT: I tried driving screws through the paper-faced corner bead, but the metal in it wasn't as thick as a regular one, and the screws tore right through. I ended up tearing it down and nailing up a regular corner bead. When I was removing the paper-faced one I discovered that some parts of the adhesive had stuck well enough to tear the paper on the drywall, while other parts weren't sticking at all. The only explanation I can come up with is that I didn't prep the surface well enough, although I did wipe it down before applying the adhesive.


texts: GFIC outlet indicator light is green but no power in the circuit

texts:
My wife overloaded a circuit when plugging in a hair dryer.  I attempted to reset the GFIC outlet but the reset button would not engage.  I purchased a new GFIC outlet and after installing, still no power at any of the outlets in the circuit, even thought the green light is lit on the new GFCI outlet.  Just like the old outlet, the test and reset buttons would not engage.  Do I need to change the outlet where the hair dry was plugged into?

Thank you


texts:
I am building a tree house. One side of it will be supported by the tree. The other with two 6x6 8' pressure treated posts.
I wanted to support those posts with concrete footings. So I dug 24" down (minimum required here), and used tube forms.
Inside the tube forms are rebars - 4 flat in a # shape, then 4 coming up from the bottom. All rebars are surrounded by concrete so they don't get exposure to air/soil.
For one post, I surrounded and tube with more concrete. With the other I did too, but less concrete.
When I prepared the concrete, I used exactly the mid-range of water that the bag said (range was 3.5-4.5 QT, I used 4).
It was a bit dry but seemed ok. I poured it in and kept compacting it as I went.
Since then (36 hours ago) I've been wetting the footings regularly.
Now, I begun stripping away the forms, and I see what's in the attached.
Does this look right? There's a lot of little "gaps" there and it's quite clumpy.


texts: Can a washer and dryer be next to a water heater?

texts:
I have a GE gas dryer (DSXH47GGWW) that is currently next to an exterior basement wall.  I'd like to move it to the opposite wall (shared with the crawl space) right next to the water heater next to which is the hot water furnace both of which are also on gas.

However the installation guide says:

  2.No other fuel burning appliance shall be installed in the same closet
  as the GAS DRYER.

I don't have them in a closet; I'm planning to create a room in the basement but my appliances would be outside of that so ventilation should be plenty.

Is this reasonable to do?  What are the reasons for not placing fuel burning appliances next to each other (I already got two)?


texts: How to reverse the travel to an craftsman garage door opener model 139.57918 1 HP

texts:
I install the Craftsman garage door opener and is working fine except by the thing that when the garage opener “Open/Up” it close my gate and Vice-versa.
This cause to me a security malfunction with the sensor because when is triggered the gate will close.
Also i try to move the travel when is already set, but i can’t fine tuning it.  So the garage opener close securely and if i try to reset the travel limits it became with same condition of when the door opener is Open/Up the gate close.
Also at craftsman told me that the travel mechanism quick release cable should point to the motor and is installed that way
What i can do to correct the situation or problem.
Thanks


texts:
Album First

Background: I have some walls that were once covered in wallpaper and my wife and I removed them when we bought our house. We then casually patched and sanded some of the blemishes left by the wallpaper removal and painted the walls with some Behr paint that was a combined primer and paint.

I have come not be annoyed by what you see in the album, which I believe stems from my lack of prep, mainly knowledge about the best order to approach these things. Per the DIY guidelines I have done some research about what the proper order I should have followed while painting but many sources seem conflicting/personal preference.

Here are my main two questions.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problems seen in the photos?
When I paint my next room, would the following be an acceptable approach?

Seal Walls with this
Skim Coat with Mud and sand
Prime With This
Paint

If there are any resources that you have tried that show the correct way, I would appreciate that too, I can't tell the difference between most people's personal preference online.


texts: Why do unused Refrigerator Appliances Grow Mold, while unused Cabinets and electronics don't?

texts:
I have a refrigerator that I thoroughly cleaned out and washed with soap/baking soda, and let thoroughly dry. They always recommend to keep Doors Open for long term refrigerator storage.
This prevents mold and mildew growth even when unplugged.

My question, why does mold/mildew grow in Refrigerators unplugged,  but they do Not grow in closed cabinets or electronic interior equipment as much?

Do unplugged refrigerator plastics have tenacity to grow more mold?

https://www.kentstorage.com.au/how-to-store-a-refrigerator-in-storage

*Just fyi, after cleaning refrigerator, I left door open for few days to dry out, but I guess keeping doors open for Long Term is the question


texts: Is it safe to put insulation next to knob & tube wiring?

texts:
I have a room that has some really ugly cheap panelling on the walls. I want to rip it out & replace with drywall. While I'm at it, I'd like to add soundproofing insulation between rooms & thermal insulation on the outside walls.

However, the house has knob & tube wiring. Is it safe to leave the wiring alone for this project? (Obviously if something must be done, doing it when the wall is open is best.)


texts: I'm about to embark on some painting projects. I'll be painting (priming) bare wood (fir) jambs/doors, a vanity and some drywall. My understanding is most flat paints are sand-able, while glossy paints cannot be sanded (i.e. they snag and peel when sanded). BTW, I want to use latex, not oil base. I like to be able to sand in case I mess up or need to retouch something. How can I determine what paints can be sanded.  Can all primers be sanded. I was planning on using zinsser bullseye 123 (primer/sealer) for the door jambs and doors. I was also looking at a Glidden Gripper Aquacrylic, which is slightly more expensive.


texts:
I have seen many of these insects lately. Usually just on the outside of the house - around the front door or the patio - but sometimes also inside.

Is this some kind of cockroach or other pest? Can they cause any harm?

The location is Germany, the province of Baden-Württemberg.


texts: Vertical lift mechanism or push to open system for a cabinet lid?

texts:
I'll try and describe as best I can. I have a simple wooden cabinet, in which is a rack hifi system.
The front of the cabinet is a solid oak overlay door that swings out.
The top of the cabinet, the top surface of the cuboid if you like, is not yet affixed in any way.
Immediately underneath the top surface (again solid oak, about 2cm thick) , is a gramophone with a plastic dust cover lid-box...which for now I don't want to dispose of.
In order to use the gramophone, for the time being I have to remove the wood lid , open the plastic lid, play a record.
What I would like to be able to do this is use that wooden surface for some ornaments, and be able to push the lid or somehow activate the lid so that it rise vertically upwards and create space for me to reach in and use the gramophone.
There is space for four vertical struts in each corner and to be contained within the cabinet.
What sort of mechanism(s) would allow the lid to gently rise upwards by about 50cm, while the lid stays horizontal? I was thinking of just using a TV lift with diagonal brackets supporting the oak lid, but this looks rather expensive, and doesn't seem to offer a "push the lid down and it will slowly pop out" mechanism. Is there something simple involving eg: latches and gas struts that is available?
Thank you in advance for any help.


texts: How do I make built-in bookcases for the corners of a room?

texts:
I am planning some built in book shelves around a room. The issue I have is what to do at the corners of the room. That is,  how not to waste space, but to make the space useful.

The corner space could be used for storage other the books if it worked better.


texts: Overkill from my Structural Engineer, can you check his drawings?

texts: I have a cape I am moving the stairs and dormering the back. My engineer sent me these drawings. I think its overkill that he put HSS steel posts with w6x25(steel beam) across for the support. He has LVL's additionally in the I beam as you can see from one of the pages. I am not sure why I need an I beam with LVL's inside to support the joists. I am sure sistered LVL's can support the weight. The span is about 14 feet. please help me as I am trying to avoid using steel on this small cape.


texts: Which stipple brush will match this particular ceiling texture?


texts: Is it safe to change an Indian 16A to 250 V round pin plug to a UK 3 pin 13 Amp as used in 220-240 V Kenya

texts:
I brought an Indian clothes drier to Kenya.  Technical Specifications
Motor Rating (Watts)125:  Heater Rating (Kw)1.8:  Power Supply 220V Single Phase, 50 Hz; Voltage Range 220+10%. I want to change the plug to a UK style 3 pin 13 amp plug as used in Kenya (Kenya power is on 220-240 single phase 50 Hz) Using a Watts to amps converter (125 w at 240 amp) it comes out well within 13 amps. Is it therefore safe to just change the plugs (assuming I wire it up properly!!)


texts: How can I tell what dimmer switch to use with LED lights?

texts:
I replaced the halogen GU10 bulbs in my kitchen with LED bulbs... I'm really pleased with the results but as  the bulbs I bought are dimmable, how do I know what dimmer switch I can use?

I did try them with a dimmer switch but they were flickering very noticeably so it must have been the wrong type of dimmer switch


texts: Could these white fluffy spots on the wood in my attic be be mold?

texts:
I am currently living in Vancouver area, recently I got a leak in my roof but my roofer already fixed it yesterday.
After the day it was repaired  I went up to our attic to check if if everything was OK  and no more leaks but I   noticed this white something (maybe mold) growing in some of part of my wood.
I read on the internet that you can kill molds with a bleach solution and wipe it with paper towel? I am not sure if this would be safe to do in my attic.
Is this dangerous that I need to call professional immediately?


texts:
I continue have a serious problem with the utility sink in my kitchen and I posted a question a while back.

I hired a plumber to fix the problem, for a while. But now the pipe got clogged again.

I am thinking of buying a powerful drain cleaner and deal with the problem myself.

I did some search, and there is a milwaukwee M12 drain snake and ridgid power spin drain cleaner. I like the latter because it can be operated manually or with the help of an electrical drill. And I found a youtube video about it as well.

Having never been a plumber, I really can use some purchase recommendations here. I heard that if not properly used, the tip of the cable could damage the pipe wall. Also, do I need snake oil for maintenance and proper tips that I have to buy separately?


texts: This is a 30 year old wall. The old plaster is removed. Beneath the old plaster there is bumpy mortar left. What is the best way to get rid of them and get a nice flat surface ready for replastering?


texts: Concrete brick patio, -how do I temporarily divert the water around a raised deck post?

texts:
I am trying to fix a wet wall problem that appeared due to a incorrectly built patio.
I am now trying to fix the under the raised deck area where the patio settled Currently the water is converging toward two of the posts of my raised deck build above the patio. Since rain is in the forecast for Tu, I need to be able to temporary divert the runoff water around these posts till I fix the problem.

Does anybody know how I can do this?

Edit: picture as requested


texts: The red copper wire was burned so I took out the burnt part of the wire and reinserted all the wires by myself.


texts: Installing smart switches, instructions don't match my wiring?

texts:
I'm trying to replace a couple switches with smart switches and the instructions provided with the switch I have (TP-Link HS200) don't match my wiring set up 100%. I'm thinking (hoping) I have the right switches, and that I just need to modify the steps a little bit.

Here's my current set up:

2 switches sharing the same wiring box. One controls the ceiling fan while the other one controls the ceiling fan LIGHT as well as an outlet on the wall
3 bundles of wires coming into the box from somewhere in the wall: upper left, upper right, bottom middle
Attached to the fan switch (left): 1 copper ground wire, 1 red wire on the side (bottom), 1 black wire on the side (top)
Attached to the light/outlet switch (right): 1 copper ground wire, 1 red wire (bottom), and TWO black wires (one on top, and the other wrapped around the bottom screw)
Wires NOT connected to the existing switches: 3 white (neutral?) wires that are twist-capped together and tucked in at the very back of the box

What I've tried to do:

Fan switch (left): connect black and red wires to the black "live" wires of the smart switch, connect the ground wires, and connect 1 of the white wires to the white wire leading to the upper left corner
Light/outlet switch (right): connect 1 black wire to 1 black wire on smart switch, connect the other black AND the red to the other black smart switch wire, connect the ground wires, and connect both remaining white wires (upper right and bottom middle) to the neutral    smart switch wire

Results:

Fan switch doesn't power on at all
Light/outlet switch is powered on and I was able to set it up on my wifi, BUT it doesn't then the light/outlet on or off at all

Other notes:
The respective switches are the only switches that control the devices, so I don't believe it's a 3-way connection

Does anyone know what I did wrong? Or am I just screwed with my wiring set up and I can't put a smart switch here? Or can I put a smart switch, just not this brand?

This is my first DIY project and my first post on here. Sorry for the long winded post! Thanks in advance for any help!


texts: Water being dumped into street from basement?

texts:
(in western new york)

We have a sump pump, something called a bubbler which is a sealed 2-3 inch pvc pipe coming out in the landscaping (sealed with a twist on cap) and a 2-3 inch pvc pipe coming out of the drive way, right by the street.

At first, the house 2 doors down was spitting out water at this pipe by the street; not a lot, but a consistent run most of the day.

Weather has no effect on water coming out of this pipe; more comes out during a heavy storm, but its been perfectly sunny here for the last 4-5 days and he has water coming out of it.

Yesterday, my neighbor has water coming out of this pipe and now i'm worried. this house is directly next to me. yesterday when i first noticed it, i heard a toilet flushing. the water didnt smell, didnt look discolored.

This can't be normal. Should I have my lines checked? What is the function of this bubbler setup? The only time in the last 2 years our sump pump failed to turn on was after we had a new furnace installed; they inadvertently turned off the breaker for the sump and so it didnt run.

My concern is water damage obviously; we have a lot of stuff in the basement, most of it on pallets and in plastic bins but some of it is exposed...

-- more --

I don't know how its all exactly hucked up; it was done well before we bought the house. The houses on the street are all from the 1940's; no hills, in Buffalo NY.

In our basement we have a floor drain and this has been backing up a little, but nothing major - just around the actual drain. this does smell a bit and the wife has been scrubbing it down with bleach on occasion - (appologies for leaving this out earlier - long day) this is opposite side of the house compared to the sump pump.

and, also, roto rooter has been digging up the house's lawn across the street due to water in their basement apparently. talking to the neighbor, its clay pipes going from the house to the street (sewer)

oh yeah, and last year, they (the town) tore apart a street 2 blocks down; redoing all of the sewers (took them all summer).

I'm gonna call someone I think to have them come and look I think.


texts: Ideas to reinforce piping shelter structure

texts:
I have bought a motorcycle shelter that is likely to blow away in a storm. I'm looking for a couple of ideas to make this a bit more permanent. My main concern is the tent hitting any parked cars around me, but ideally I'd like to make it more structurally sound. The car park it's in is at least partially sheltered from the wind. I'm very much spitballing here as I have little experience in this field. This is the shelter frame :

My initial thoughts:

Spray the whole thing in galvo spray to give it a bit more weather
protection (I live near the sea so rust will be an issue)
Bolt the entire thing to a heavy plank of wood - not just using the
cross plate (which I imagine will not have much strength, but also
with some saddle brackets. I can't bolt this to the concrete as I
rent, so it would have to be structurally sound enough to hold the
bolts (and I'll weigh it down with sand bags), thinking some kind of
structural plywood?
The top sections of the frame pipes come off, and I was thinking of
using some expanding foam, or maybe some sand, to fill it in and
reinforce the angles to minimise the lateral flex.
On a similar note, I have bought some p clips and metal bracket
things to create a kind of cross section support across the right
angle, again to minimise the flex.

The tent section looks like this

and so far the only thing I can think is to spray with waterproofing...It's quite thick, but the Australian sun is absolutely brutal so I'm sure there's additional things I can do perhaps?


texts: How to mount a 60 amp 2 pole 240 volt non-fused switch

texts:
Got a Siemens 60-amp switch (LNFC222R) that's for a pottery kiln. One side of the switch will have a #6 Cu NMD90 wired to it and will go to the sub-panel, running through studs, just like the 14-2 wire in the picture. The other side of the switch will be wired to the kiln.

It's in a shed.  There are currently no walls and the studs are exposed.

Question:

How do I mount the switch?  Supposing I want to pass an inspection, do I need to cover the wall?  If I mounted the switch over a wall covering, how would the #6 Cu wire pass through the box and into the wall?  Does it need protection?  There is a knock out in the back of the box, but supposing I put up drywall and mount the box on top of it, I can't run the wire through the drywall because it's a combustible.

If I mount the switch between the studs, fine.  Easy peasy.  But say I want to finish the shed and put up drywall or cement board.  I could cut a hole that the switch fits through, but the box doesn't seem to be designed to be inset (so to speak) into the wall, given the way the cover opens.

Pictures show where we want to put it.

Thanks for the help.

Danny


texts: How can I fill a small tapered gap between my pavers and a step?

texts:
The sidewalk project needs few finishing touches.

I need to fill the gap between the house and the pavers to lock them before going over with vibrating plate.

The gap is 1.5", but the steps at the entrance don't have straight angle and the gap there goes up  to 3.5"

I don't think putting slivers of pavers in it will make it look better.

What are my options? I was thinking about pebbles but don't feel like they will prevent pavers from traveling. Should I use concrete? And maybe cover the it with pebbles?


texts: I want to create a new garage where my carport is, but if I build a new garage structure, I have to move it over 4' and won't have enough turn radius, right?


texts:
I'm replacing some light fixtures in my house, and the existing cable coming out is very old. I was able to make out the stamp along the length, and it's 12/2 NM cable, rated to 60C. It's got a neutral, hot, and a ground.

Newer cable, I've come to find out, is NM-B, which has a 90C rating. The light fixtures I've picked up are labeled that they need a 90C minimum rating.

So, I take it I've got to replace at least the cable that connects to the light. My plan is to pull out the existing NM cable in the attic, and splice in some NM-B, which I will run to the fixture.

Is there anything wrong with doing this? Do I need to run a new NM-B cable from the breaker?


texts:
I am trying to add a new bathroom in the attic for kids.
Here is idea 1, my doubt is that could I join the toilet drain into the laundry drain? Does that cause any issues like the smell?
I am new to DIY but would like to learn new things. I believe that the laundry rain pipe and main stack pipe would be connected somewhere in the ground of the basement. I plan to take hot and cold water lines also from the laundry room to the attic.
Please help with any insights or ask me any questions for clarification.


texts: How to replace an odd-size (2 1/4" x 1 7/8") downspout elbow?

texts:
An elbow in one of my downspouts is broken and I want to replace it. But the downspout's measurements are 2 1/4" x 1 7/8" which is different from the standard sizes in USA which are 2" x 3" inches or 3" x 4".

Are there replacement parts available for 2 1/4" x 1 7/8" downspouts, and if so where? I couldn't find anything useful on Google, Home Depot, Amazon, etc. but might not be looking for the correct keywords.  Is there a name for this size that isn't the actual dimensions, like how a wood "2x4" isn't really 2 inches by 4 inches?

If replacement parts aren't available, then how should I replace this odd-size downspout elbow without having to replace the entire downspout?  (The downspout goes up 3 stories so would be a pain to replace-- and only the detachable elbow at the bottom has a problem.) This downspout is in an out-of-the-way corner of our back yard so I don't care about appearance. In other words, it's OK if the fix is kinda ugly as long as it won't leak.

Here's what it looks like now:


texts: Should I replace my breaker box due to its age?

texts:
Our house has a Square D QO style breaker box, where it uses single pole breakers that have 2 clips on them like this:

I am looking to add a new breaker and am out of physical space in the box currently.
The box currently has 4 tandem breakers, so I figured I would just replace a single with a tandem. (Based on info from this thread, physical space is the limitation.)
When shopping for a 2-20 tandem breaker, one of the guys helping me at the store told me my box is super old, and I should just upgrade it.

It seems parts for this box might be harder to acquire compared to a new box, but should I legitimately be considering upgrading my box just cause its old?


texts: Why would a gas fireplace have tiny flame and fog up the glass?

texts:
I just bought a condo and I hate the gas fireplace!  I can barely see the flame or the wood against the black background. The flame is tiny, only 3 to 4" and doesn't extend above the wood.

Another concern is when the glass is over the opening, it starts fogging up right away.  Does this mean that it is not properly vented?  I specifically looked for a home with a fireplace and have owned several gas units before but nothing as pitiful as this!  Any suggestions?


texts: What do the numbers on a cordless drill mean?

texts:
I have a Hitachi cordless drill:

You can turn the gray numbered part to switch between, hammer drill, drill and screwdriver mode.  The screwdriver mode is numbered up to 22.  Can someone explain what the different numbers mean?  I haven't really noticed a difference between them.


texts:
We had a new AC system put in last summer. The contractor included a UV bulb between the cooling area and the supply fan.  It's supposed to kill bacteria and other nasties in the air.

(The bulb is a Honeywell UV2400XLAM1 - Details here in case you're interested: https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/Techlit/TechLitDocuments/03-00000s/03-00011.pdf)

My question is "when should I replace the bulb?"  Other than the obvious answer "when it stops working" I'm wondering if there's a point where (for whatever reason) it becomes less effective.  Is it possible that the bulb could still be putting out visible light after it stops putting out UV, which I obviously cannot see?

These things are not cheap (they're around $70) so I'd rather not replace it sooner than I have to.

Thanks!


texts: How do I fix a vinyl covering that is coming away from the outside deck support beam?

texts:
I live in a townhouse with a deck over the garage. I noticed that under the deck, along the board that is on the outer edge, some of the vinyl covering is popping out of place and hanging down a little. You can see two images of what I'm talking about here:

It appears that this rubbery cover is attached only at certain intervals, which is why you can see it popping out of place only in certain spots. If I push it back into place it looks fine, but it does not stay there when I let go. My assumption is that I can simply put some adhesive inside of the cover in the pieces that are limping and then duck tape the material into place while it dries.

Is that the proper way to fix something like this? And what type of adhesive would I use if I used one?


texts: Do you have to have a thermostat for an electrical baseboard heater?

texts: Ours didn't come with a wall mounted thermostat! So do we need to buy one?


texts: Which fitting do I need to run a modern fridge's 1/4" ice maker supply line to an older supply valve with a larger flare outlet?

texts: We bought a new fridge for our new home and the supply valve seems to have a 3/8" or 1/2" flare outlet (I'm unsure), while modern fridges appear to use a 1/4". I'm trying to figure out if I can cut one end of the supply line I bought on Amazon linked HERE and use a compression sleeve (unsure on size) and another fitting (also unsure of size - is it really 3/8") to hook it up? I really appreciate the community's help!


texts: I am thinking about getting an elliptical for our home.  The only space it will fit is in the room where our oil tanks are located.  Is it okay to workout in this room or is this a health hazard due to the smells/fumes I might be breathing in?


texts: What is the ideal distance between supports of a shelf?

texts:
I've got 122x25x1cm and 61x25x1cm plywood boards that I want to use to make shelves for books and tools.

I'll use 2 supports for each size of board and I'd like to know how far apart they should be. Perhaps someone has developed a program that tells the answer.

Picture1 of the other parts (not sure how you call them):

1 Image from: http://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/EP0404699B1/imgf0001.png


texts: Safety concern building a fire pit out of reclaimed bricks

texts:
I have a bunch of reclaimed (broken) bricks left over from building a patio. The bricks are from an old home that was knocked over and buried for some time. I would like to use these to build a fire pit on the patio, but I've read there can be some safety concerns using bricks/blocks that aren't "fire  safe".

My question is, how concerned should I be about using these old bricks? It seems unlikely that they'd blow up to me but I like to keep things as safe as possible.

Are there are any other things I should be concerned about such as mortar type? Base? etc?

Here are the bricks (red ones):


texts:
I plan to dig a hole and put things in said hole. My problem is, some of the things that will be buried can't or shouldn't be directly exposed to the ground, either for their benefit or the Earth's. Also, because this hole is expected to be ~2x2x4', I can't simply buy an enclosure (like if it were cable in PVC).

Can I reasonably build a box with pressure-treated plywood to line the hole, or will I need moisture barriers, sealant, etc.?


texts: Can I using a 3-phase connection to power 1-phase AC unit?

texts:
I have preparation for an AC connection with 3-phase 220V 3X16A breaker. I want to install a 220V 1-phase unit, which also needs a 16A breaker. The physical connection has screw-on terminals, so there is no worry about plug compatibility.

I have spoken to 3 electricians: one says that I need only change the 3-phase breaker to 3 separate 1-phase breakers, and leave the 2 additional phases disconnected and unused in the AC connection. The other two electricians say that there is no problem leaving the 3-phase breaker and just leaving the unused phases disconnected. All of them agree that there is no worry about the shared neutral of the connections, and say there is no need to re-wire the neutral.

Should I listen to the majority? I tend to trust them more since they are basically telling me that they don't have to work (do nothing = no get paid), so I'm more suspicious of a guy telling me I need to pay him to do the needed changes.

I'm asking both in terms of code-correctness and more importantly, safety for myself, the AC unit and the house (electrocution is bad, blown AC unit is bad, fire is bad).

Edit: to clarify, mains voltage in Israel (where I live) is 220V. Most older homes have 1-phase 40A (or even 25A) breakers, and new homes (like my own) have 3-phase 3X25A breakers. The main usage for the 3-phase is AC units and electric cooktops and ovens. The rest of the electrical wiring in the house is distributed across the three phases to even out the load.


texts: Staples in LVL beams: okay or to be avoided?

texts:
I just added LVL to both sides of the carrying beam in my basement which was overloaded due to a 2nd story added. The original built-up beam was three 2x8 nailed together.  It was completely covered with 17 or so NM cables for half its length.  I pulled the staples and tie-wrapped them to the bottom of the joists until the LVL was added.

Now I have to put the wires somewhere. I ordered some Arlington CableWay (an overhead raceway) which looks very neat from pictures.  This will go on the bottom on the joists to half the length of the house and stop at my stairs which are attached to the beam at its midpoint.

I have 3 NM for the furnace, AC, and other that continued on past the stairs on the old beam.  The raceway is pretty expensive and I figured I wouldn't continue the raceway for 3 cables.  Even if I wanted to, the stairs are in the way and originally these 3 cables were run low on the beam under the attachment cleats for the stairs (a very narrow area) and then out the other side of the stairs where they shifted to a high point on the beam for the rest of the run.

Now for the question:
What's the opinion for stapling NM on LVL beams??  I ask because a friend told me about a case where stamped attachment plates with array of sharp points weakened the LVL. Of course this is a lot of "nails" in a small area as compared to stapling 3 cables.  But it made me think of the other half of the beam that had 17 cables stapled to it.  If I didn't order the raceway, it would mean driving a lot of staples into the new LVL.


texts:
My vent rises vertically about 5 ft from the dryer. I am trying to decide if it will considerably save drying time if I move it to only about a foot above from the dryer exhaust is, as the space both inside and outside the wall is available.
I would invest in it only if the time and energy savings from 5 to 1 ft vertical are significant. I suspect that vertical retains moisture.
The dryer is already pretty fast because it is gas heated, about half the time of the electrical dryer in another unit I own.


texts: Can I use wall rail brackets with heavy handrail?

texts:
Can I use wall brackets for this type of handrail:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/2-25-in-x-12-ft-Unfinished-Wood-Handrail/1000442943
Thanks


texts: Concealed toilet cisterns attached by screws to dry wall. Are they secure?

texts:
I've noted several post-2000 build apartments that have concealed plastic toilet cisterns that are secured at the rear to dry wall by 4 screws. They are lever-type cisterns, so there is also a toilet lever tube (either metal or rigid plastic) connecting the front-right edge of the cistern to the exterior tiled wall. One side has an inlet for a flexi hose, the other is connected to the overflow.

The screws are arranged horizontally along the upper rear surface of the cistern.

I was reassured by an experienced plumber that these drywall-secured screws don't move and even one screw is enough to hold the cistern in place. I don't have any reason to doubt him given that not one of these cisterns have become loose over 20 years. However, should it come to replacing these cisterns, should we try to secure these cisterns to something other than drywall?

I was wondering how secure such cisterns are, how much weight they can hold and if it's normal practice to secure cisterns this way. Should a timber framework be fitted for replacement cisterns?


texts: Why would I run out of water for a few seconds and then get full pressure back

texts:
When I turn the water on for a few minutes I get great pressure and then the water totally stops.  After 2-30 seconds the water comes back on and seems fine for the duration.  At first I thought it was only in the shower but recently it has also happened on my outdoor faucet.

I have not changed anything except that we seemed to be getting a lot more sediment in the water so we totally replaced the whole house filter.  But the water was shutting off before that.


texts: I have a old 4-way switch whose toggle broke and now needs replacing (see attached).  My problem is I can't figure out the wire mapping.  All 4 wires are yellow.  I guess the ones on top are for 1 3-way switch and the bottom for the other, so I could keep the top for the brass screws on a new 4-way.  Am I making this too complex?  Never replaced a 4-way before.  Thx.


texts:
My Genie garage door chain is broken. (There is a related issue at issue).

See the images.

Also

What I want is to connect two sections together via a rivet. But I don't know if the theory right?


texts: How do I calculate brightness of LED strips equivalent to incandescent light bulbs?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out how much LED stripe brightness I need to get roughly the same amount of light that would be produced by 4, 8, 12, 16 and 20 incandescent light bulbs consuming 40, 60 and 75 watts each.

I can't find any guides online which make sense for this, only the LED power supply wattage calculations, which is a step that goes after this.


texts: I had to move my Bradford gas water heater ,when I moved it back i get a howling sound.Removing the pilot window plate stops the noise but what could be causing it?


texts: Is there a standard distance between steps and bottom of porch step railings? What I am referring to is if you measure the distance from a step to the railing above it. The distance I measured was around 10 inches.


texts: "European" to US screw nomenclature mapping (and reverse)

texts:
My wife's company allowed moving her raising desk for working from home. Not sure how it happened, but we've lost the crews which fixate the table top to the metal frame it's standing on.
I consulted with the PDF assembly instructions and it says we need the ST4.8x19 (wood screws). As far as I understand, it's a self-tapping screw with 4.8mm ø and 19mm length, with thread pitch unspecified.
Is there (ideally, an easy) way to figure out whether the US mass-produced screw variety has an equivalent replacement? Or should I just convert the metric diameter and length to the closest value(s) and use such screws instead?


texts: my fan over my table works from wall switch but the light fixtures doesnt come on unless i flip the switch numerous times

texts: my fan over my table works from wall switch but the light on the fan wont come on unless I flip the switch a number of times before light will come on. what is causing this problem. if I use the pull chain on the light I have no problem turning it on and off


texts: Can I sieve pre-mixed concrete for thin applications?

texts:
I have bought a pre-mix "multi purpose" concrete. The mix appears to be mixed with sand and small stones.
I have seen Creating a concrete mix with smooth texture which is about how to make it smooth and this kind of answered my question but, I'm not totally fussed about it being smooth (well, I am, but that isn't my question)
The issue I have is, I'm leveling a floor by a tiny amount but the size of the stones are too big and I can't taper it as I'd like. This means at one side, the concrete may have a a height of 3 inches, and the other, 1mm.
I've put down a bonding agent, I've mixed the concrete, spread it out and of course, with stones/pebbles over 1mm high, I can't get it smooth/low enough enough in height.
I don't understand why there are these bigger stones in the mix. My own research shows nothing. My own brain tells me, it's to fill it out to reduce cost! If the stones were removed, more stand/cement would be needed and cost would go up.
If my brain is right, could I have sieved the mix first (and then add water as expected) to remove the larger stones to have produced a thinner surface (and would it still set)?


texts: Need help for ice maker line splitter to be used for coffee maker

texts: We have a coffee maker that keeps needing to be refilled. I had an idea to split of the ice maker line (which is easy) to supply the coffee maker. The only issue is, is there any attachment that with a press of a knob or nozzle water can be dispersed?  This would have to fit the regular sized ice maker lines. Thx.


texts: Why are some of my string of LED lights dimmer than the rest?

texts:
I have an outdoor LED light chain, which consists of two parts.
This morning when I got up the second part of the LED chain had begun glowing very faintly (see image). The first part of the chain (which is nearest to the plug) is fine.
None of the bulbs are dead (as far as I can tell)
I checked the plug connecting the two parts and it looks dry. I measured the voltage across the plug and found 220 volts.
Does anyone know what is going on? And, more importantly, can this be repaired?

The product is from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festive-Lights-ConnectPro-Outdoor-Festoons/dp/B06ZY6PFSY
The lamps are wired from the mains to a transformer of sorts. There is no information on the transformer (or whatever the thing is). There is a label on the on the cabel itself that reads: Lamp spec. 10 buldbs (LED) per 3V, max 20mA. The plug that connects the two segments has two prongs. Everthing is connected to 220V mains. I measured 220V on the plug that connects the two segments.
Below is a picture of the plug the LED chain uses.

EDIT No. 2:
Below is a photo of the connector that connects the two strands of lights.
The bulbs are sadly integrated so I cannot remove them from their sockets.

EDIT No. 3:
I tried swapping out the strands and as expected the dim strand still  didn't work. My old man then suggested I leave the defect strand in the boiler room overnight to 'dry out'. I did that and then it worked again. When I hung the strand again I could see water inside two of the bulbs. Many thanks to all that replied to my question!


texts: Fixing window condensation on vinyl windows

texts:
I have double pane gas filled vinyl windows that are approximately 10 years old that recently starting condensation around the edges of the glass. I've done some basic caulking around a few of the windows but it didn't' seem to help. Should I caulk around where the glass meets the frame? Any tips to prevent the condensation and (likely) drafts?

See pictures below (note condensation is on the exterior of the window not inside):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ud82e7jqsgtz5o9/IMG_20151228_094959.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f73s61x8edds8tm/IMG_20151228_094945.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dwl5u2bpzpwil22/IMG_20151228_094934.jpg?dl=0


texts: Why tape black garbage bags to outside windows, not between inside windows and blinds?

texts:
I went store to buy double layer of heavy duty black garbage bags to black out a bright bedroom at night, and spoke with salesperson and his supervisor. They both recommended go outside to balcony and tape these bags on outside window. Don't stay inside and don't tape bags between blinds and inside window!
My English is bad, and I can't remember their explanation. Can anyone think why? Because weather? Condensation? My condo's in Toronto, Canada.  Toronto snows and gets cold in winter.


texts:
I should cut a stright line on my 20-feet asphalt driveway, and am wondering what would be a easy way of doing it. I was told that a worm drive circular saw could do that with a diamond blade. I don't have a worm drive circular saw but has a normal circular saw from Makita (7 1/2"). Would a normal circular saw be able to cut the asphalt? It is not that thick -- about 1 1/2 ". Or, would just renting a walk-behind concrete saw from HomeDepot be easier? When I check the fee, it is about $50 for 4 hour and $70 for a full day.

If a circular saw can get the job done easily, I don't want to spend over $50 but am concerned with that my circular saw might be damaged.

Thanks,


texts: Why should I repair/replace roof just because it's old?

texts:
My roof is old. Shingles are worn down, some are torn, and there are some nails coming through some shingles. I'm being told by some contractors there for other reasons that my roof needs immediate repair or replacement. They question they're not really answering though is why do I need to repair anything when my roof is functioning perfectly fine. There are no leaks, no bowing, no problems other than it 'being old'.

So..

What are the problems with simply having an old roof?
What am I missing - why should I repair/replace my roof when it is functioning perfectly?
Why should I not wait for bad weather to tear up the roof and then rely on an insurance claim to cover damages?


texts: Why do the lights near the wall in my media room have a separate switch?

texts:
This is the media room in a house I recently bought:

The lights along the wall on the right, indicated by red arrows in the picture, have a separate light switch. The lights are directed down, not at the wall. Why are they controlled separately? Is it to light the aisle, if a TV were installed in the stone area in the center of the picture and seats placed in front of it?


texts:
Can someone please help to review if the following AC replacement proposal makes sense and sounds reasonable?
Installation
Remove and disposal of existing equipment, disassemble systems so they can be brought to the roof, reassemble system, rinse copper lines with RX11-flush to remove debris, install new 2 ton 14 SEER Trane rooftop unit (Model 4ycc4024a1060a), rewire high and low voltage wires, a vacuum system to eliminate air and moisture, charge the new system with R410A Freon, check the thermostat for proper communication with the unit, run and test system to ensure proper operation.
Warranty
10 yr parts and compressor warranty; 4 yr labor warranty.
They charge $10K for this job. I live in a walk-up building without an elevator and a small hatch to the roof. So, the AC unit needs to be brought to the roof either by crane or disassembling and reassembling parts. A lot of the AC companies don't even want to do this business. It is also hard to operate a crane due to the many cable lines in my area.
Does this seem correct?


texts: Our house had a leak in the kitchen sink drain and a hole around the drain was cut in the outside siding in order to repair it. I would like to temporarily seal the hole until proper repairs can be made to the siding. What materials should I get (foam sealer, plaster, waterproof paint, etc)? Below is a picture of the hole.


texts: Install Ultra Short-Throw Projector Mounted Onto Ceiling in Residential Home

texts: I want to install a short-throw projector onto the ceiling of a residential home and whiteboard onto a wall to hold the projected image. How do I do this myself or are there companies out there who can do it for cheap in the USA?


texts: What's this metal thing in my wall where the studs should be, and how do I put a shelf on it?

texts:
I'm attempting to mount a shelving system (specifically, a Rubbermaid single-track adjustable shelf) to a wall and am running into something quite strange.

Here's what I know:

Studfinder appears to show studs at 16" intervals.
Upon drilling a pilot hole on one of these intervals, the bit pops
right through the 1/2" drywall, passes without resistance through a
small bit of free space, then runs into something hard to drill
through.
Removing the bit from the drill and manually poking the
offending substance produces an airy sound, like a big metal plate.
Drilling a few feet upward at the same horizontal
position yields the same result.

The wall is an interior wall in a recently-built high-rise apartment building shared between two apartments.

My questions:

What's this metal thing I'm hitting? (I doubt it's a protective plate, as it spans the height of the wall, and sources say a metal stud should be "easy to drill through", which this is not.)
Why am I (apparently) finding a gap behind the drywall and no stud at these 16" intervals?
What are my options for mounting this shelf now? (Toggle bolts?)

Further testing I plan to try:

Scanning wall with a strong magnet (my hard drive magnet hasn't shown me anything yet...)
...yeah, I'm out of ideas.

Thanks in advance!


texts: How to fit a length of drainage PVC pipe between two existent fittings

texts:
I need to connect two lines of 100mm PVC that are about 1,5 meter apart, they are about 50 cm sloped from each other, so I tought about using two 45° elbows. See image below (black: existing fittings, blue: new piping, orange: elbows).

As far as planning goes it was all fine, but I cannot make the new pipe fit between the ones already in place, they are not "bendy" enough... What is the proper way to do it?

BTW: This is a drainage pipe.


texts: What is this wire nut-like cover called?

texts:
In a few boxes in my house, I've found a some of these things that serve the purpose of wire nuts. They are made of rubber and have a loop on the bottom. They wrap between the wires, and then around and up over the top. If you pull them off, the wires inside are held together by a separate a metal clip.

What are these things called? Are they safe, or should I replace them with regular wire nuts?


texts: Can I just cap the red wire from a dual switch to install a ceiling fan without a light?

texts: I am replacing a ceiling light with a ceiling fan NO light. There is a dual switch at the wall to accommodate a ceiling fan with a light. There are 4 wires at the ceiling ground, red, black and white. My question is, can I use the ground, black and white wires for the fan and is it safe to just cap the red wire with a nut?


texts:
I have tried 3 turns, lots of turns , less turns, I do it the right way I am like 100% sure but I always get leaks, I use it for fittings in compressed air (8 bar).

I do it how the guy teaches in this video. What do I do?


texts: what is code for jboxes in celing joists that I intend to cover with plywood?

texts: If I cover the boxes and properly secure the cables per code can they be hidden or do I have to surface mount them?


texts:
I am fixing to get rid of the grass and lay them pavers in the picture below. Its an area of about 10 meters by 2 and a half meters

I haven't done it before. I have looked over the internet and the basic steps seem to be :

Dig out the grass and the soil upto 8 inches
Fill 4 inches of roadbase/gravel. Compact it.
Fill 1 inch of sand. Level it. Compact it.
Lay the pavers, keep some fall and slope it towards
where the water currently flows towards and fill in polymer sand
between the pavers.

Does this seem about right ? Also, I have no access to a compactor (machine) so I will get a hand compactor.
How do I calculate how much gravel, sand and polymer sand will I require ?


texts: Is there something like a power switch that I can control from a computer?

texts: I need to control a LED light from a computer program that I am writing, i.e. I want to turn that light on or off from the computer. Is there some kind of power switch or alike that I can connect to from a computer, e.g. its USB port?


texts:
I'm in a new to me house and have a few questions regarding the concrete setup in the garage.

Most importantly, it is getting very dirty with the winter driving and caked with mud constantly. I have a power washer, and I have washed in the past, but my concern that a friend brought up to me is the following.

I have this gap in between my garage and driveway to the point where the vast majority of the water/dirt does NOT drain down the driveway, due to this gap.

Pic for reference:

Close-up:

As you can see, power washing the concrete floor means all that water falls into the gap as the garage concrete looks to be about an inch higher. The concern my friend brought up is that all that water will crack the garage-side concrete long-term. I'm not a total idiot here, I'm fully aware of how much water can damage home building materials. We had a bathroom remodel in this house that was fully molded and rotted due to moisture.

ANYHOW, back to topic :)

This is directly in front of the garage, I don't think there is any relationship between this concrete and the foundation concrete of the house. Nonetheless, I don't want to introduce cracking whether it's the foundation of the house, or just the concrete of the garage.

What is the best approach here? Does this gap have to be filled with concrete? If so, will the driveway concrete still have enough room to expand and contract etc? Part of me believes that maybe this wasn't a gap at all when the house was originally built (70s), but over time, the concrete on the driveway side has shifted away and created such a gap.

Ideally, it would be awesome to have a solution to where it would drain down the driveway with something I insert in there, and I don't have to mess with concrete work or hire someone for that since I've never worked with concrete and will probably screw the job up :)

My last question is regarding the expansion joints on the garage floor (Already pictured above). I want to epoxy paint long-term, can/should these joints be filled or is that a problem? Half of the time I see a nice looking garage floor with epoxy paint, the expansion joints are filled, and other times they are not, and I never understood the difference.

Thank you all for your time and answers.


texts: What kind of glue can I use to attach a laminated poster to a wood frame?

texts:
I have a 50" x 36" laminated poster that has a propensity to curl. One copy of it curled so much that it bent the foamcore on which it was mounted. I decided to mount a different copy of it on a wood frame that I built. (The frame has four verticals and two horizontals, and is made of 3/4" square-cross-section sections of wood.) The frame is slightly smaller in both dimensions than the laminated poster. I would like to glue the poster to this frame, and hang the frame on the wall.

My question is what sort of glue to use that will bond the surface of the laminate (without damaging it) to the wood. I don't know what kind of plastic the laminate is made from.

UPDATE

Here is a picture of the frame overlaid on the poster (map). Obviously I plan to attach it to the rear :-)


texts: What type of dryer best handles long exhaust vents?

texts: I have a very long exhaust line (about 5 meters) from the dryer and have issues with moisture staying in it when I do laundry. Since the old dryer broke down, I am now shopping around for a new dryer and want one that will minimize this issue. Are there specific features or specifications of a dryer that I should be looking for?


texts: How to install crown molding with uneven cabinet height?

texts:
We installed some new cabinets, in our kitchen a few months ago. We started on one side of the kitchen at the appropriate hight to hang the crown moulding. However, we hung the cabinets level across the entire kitchen, and because our house is 25 or 30 years old, and probably due to some shoddy workmanship, we found that the ceiling was not, in fact as level as our new cabinets. So on one end, there is not enough room to nail in the crown moulding to the top of the cabinets and i believe that there will be a gap in fact on the very end.

Is there any way to 'build up' the cabinets to the appropriate hight on one side? Has anyone dealt with this issue? What i am trying to avoid is re-hanging all the cabinets. Besides if we did that, say 2 inches up. Then the one end of the kitchen would be too high, and the crown would starting to interfere with the doors of the cabinets.


texts: Code Question in regards to 120V / 20 amps

texts:
I am looking to install a 24-outlet Vertical Power Strip (Tripp Lite PS7224-20), to help have enough plugs for my computer equipment in the basement. Currently I have traced out the wire in the house from the breaker to a covered junction box. The Circuit breaker is 20 amps, and the wiring is 12/2 with a ground to the Junction box. At the Junction Box I have the Pool light on the line.

My question is awhile ago I added a 12/2 with ground out of that junction box for the computer equipment. Is this allowed as long as I used the Romex wire with the plastic junction boxes to house the outlet plug(120V). I want to keep that line and add an additional line that will be connected to a NEMA L5-20R which is needed for the PS277-20(20 amp). I will be moving the load of the devices over to the 20 amp line, and where the current equipment is will be only used to control 1 small device. Currently there is no tripping of the circut so the load is ok on the line. I am really only worried about if its to Code. Any help would be appricated. Sorry for the long winded post, just trying to give a good picture since I can't upload a photo


texts: What are some tips/techniques for applying knockdown texture to drywall?

texts:
I'd like to get advice on applying knockdown texture and fixing my own mistakes in the process.  The consistency I'm looking for is something similar to this:

As per an eHow article, I think the basic steps are:

Fill a clean bucket with compound appr. 4 inches from bottom, add water (Let's start with 4 cups), mix and add water until your mixture is that of a pancake batter, pour into hopper. The compressor should be set to 25 to 30 p.s.i. Hold the sprayer 2 feet from wall and spray -- starting from the top and working your way down, once at the bottom of the wall, shift over and work your way up, and move to the next wall. Make sure as you spray the other walls, that you keep an eye on the texture you have already applied. Once the top of the texture turns dull (no more shine to it) it is ready to Knockdown.
Once the top of the texture has a dull finish, take a 12 inch drywall knife and LIGHTLY drag it across the Texture, do not apply alot of pressure, just a very easy drag will give you the look you are trying to achieve. You will notice that you have thinned out the texture and given it somewhat of a Stucco appearance. A lot of the books written on this suggest knocking the texture down from top to bottom. However considering that walls are far from being flat, going side to side seems to yield better results.
Clean up is easy---water, even if you got the texture on trim, a simple sponge and warm water will do the trick.

(I paraphrased some parts of the article).

My questions are:

What kind of preparation is needed before beginning? I assume I should put down a drop cloth?
As I'm new to this, I'm sure I'll make mistakes. What can be done to "re-do" various sections?
The article references using a standard drywall knife instead of knockdown knife.  Do knockdown knifes make things easier?
Are there any other tips you would suggest for a beginner?


texts: Electric outlet both sides 2x4 interior wall

texts: How do you install electric outlets on both sides of a 2"x4" interior wall to meet code?  The back of each box (and wires entering box) is very close (less than 1/2") to the front of the other side of the wall.  Is there code on how to do this?


texts: The calking around the shower (where the floor meets the wall) was loose and water has been leaking through it.  In removing the old calking I discovered that there is a build up on water visable.   In fact it's level with the tile.  Is there anyway to remove the water without tearing up the floor, which I can't afford?


texts: Do I need to add a fuse for a lamp circuit off a ring main?

texts:
In my flat I have a spur from the ring main to two double plug sockets either side of the bed. There is a 13amp fused spur switch between the ring main and the spur.  I want to extend the spur to go to 2 wall lamps (they have a on/off switch in the base).
Do I need another fused spur switch between the end socket and the wall lamps? If so why? Thanks!


texts: What is a typical lifespan for a sump pump?

texts:
I am a new home owner and do not know what is "typical" for how often a sump pump should run.
The goal is flood prevention and failure preparation.  Finding a straight answer is proving annoyingly difficult.

Obviously,

it depends on location and
it depends on weather conditions

I know that running every minutes is probably too often.  Some people claim theirs runs 5 times a day.  Mine runs about every 20-45 minutes.  That's as much as 72 times per day.  I have no reference for how to interpret that information.

What is a "safe" operating frequency for a sump pump?
How many cycles is a sump pump good for?


texts: Do I screw down the threshold over my Pergo laminate floors?

texts:
I recently replaced 1200 square feet of floors in my home with Pergo Outlast laminate flooring. The floors are done and everything is installed, but I was not sure if I am supposed to screw down the thresholds. I have two exterior doors and on both of them I put the floors under the threshold. Before we had engineered hardwood and the thresholds were screwed into them. I'm just nervous to screw them down because I haven't been able to find anything saying its ok to screw through it. I would hate to see it crack/split when I screw it down. I would think I could drill holes into the floors before screwing into them and that would prevent any issues. Any thoughts on this?

The thresholds are both in place (not moving) with the doors opening and closing multiple times throughout the day for the last month.


texts: I recently remodeled my kitchen and while putting in the sink I had to remove it and i forgot to remove one clip and it ripped off a small piece of the laminate. So my question is if there is some way to put it back in a way that it should not be vissible? The only products I found was covering it with mixtures of solid colors not the way the countertops look so it will still be very vissible.                    Thanks


texts: Plugging load into any of the last few downstream duplexes trips the gfci

texts: In an old house with no ground wires and metal duplex boxes, we installed a GFCI in the first box in one circuit, and new 3-prong duplexes downstream named A through E. When we plug a load into duplex A or B, no problem. But if we plug a load into any of C through E, the gfci trips and A-E go dead. Would not a leak between neutral and ground somewhere between boxes B and C also cause the GFCI to trip when a load is plugged into A or B? Any ideas about what might actually be happening here?


texts:
It is 5 F outside; however, I have not had any problem with getting desired heat in rooms, until today.
We have gas heat in our house.
I hear water thru the hot water baseboard heaters in every room. Rooms are not making it to the set temp of 69 F


texts: Can I use mixed shellac flakes in place of Zinsser BIN primer?

texts:
I have heavy nicotine damage on my ceilings. I want to seal the ceilings and then install a drywall ceiling just below them (with cornices) to cover up the ugly painted "popcorn" texture (I tried removing the popcorn with no luck).

To reiterate: I won't be painting over it - it will be covered over with the drywall ceiling.


texts:
I started tearing down a pantry closet. Can I take down the header? I just want to take front wall off. The two sides would remain.
Note that the drawing is reversed from what was actually built.


texts: How can I find out if a vapor barrier is requried for finishing a basement to code?

texts:
I'm planning out a basement finishing project, and I'd like to do it correctly. I've done a lot of research but what I can't tell is if I do, or do not, require a vapor barrier.

I was hoping from a legal (code compliance) standpoint there would be a definitive answer, but as far as I can tell the code doesn't even touch on this.

I believe this is the correct resource for my (Delaware county in Ohio) location's building standards.

From a common sense standpoint, it doesn't seem too clear to me if it's a plus or a minus... it keeps outside water out preventing mold/mildew (positive) but if something we to happen to a pipe or the sum pump in the basement and water were to get in it would be harder for it to get out (negative).

So I was really hoping there would be another reason to or to not have it. My two questions:

Does anyone know if the concept of vapor barriers ever come in to
the code compliance of finished basements?
Where would I go looking for any such information for my location? Would it be best to
contact a specific department, or look for a contractor perhaps?

And of course if anyone knows the answer to my specific area, that would be helpful too.


texts: How can I stick printed pictures on my leased condo's walls?

texts:
I cut out the pretty pictures from travel guides that are mailed to me. How can I stick them to my condo's walls without harming the walls at all?

I lease my condo and my landlord's very strict. I definitely can't glue or tape the pictures to my wall. Some pictures of my walls -


texts: our gas furnace has a junction box on the side of it for the 110 feed for the blower, the feed has no ground wire , if i put a meter on the hot wire and metal box i get 110/120 , without a ground wire on the feed side does this mean the furnace sitting on a concrete basement floor is creating its own ground and is this ok?


texts: I have a Sharp Microwave and a Whirlpool Oven.  A couple of times I've noticed that they've reset and the time clock is flashing.  I've already had an electrician check the fusebox and says it is fine. Are there any explanations as to why this is happening?


texts: Attaching wall frame and soffit to a load supporting beam

texts: The image shows a load supporting beam in a basement. The plan is to attach a wall frame (depicted by green colored lines) and a soffit (red colored lines) to the load supporting beam. A very basic question: Is it OK to fasten these structures to the existing supporting beam? Can the fasteners (3 inch screws) (1) damage the supporting beam or (2) can the supporting beam cause problems down the road to the new wall and soffit by thermal expansion movement?


texts:
While inspecting the breaker box in my shop area I noticed inside the breaker box was a ground wire that was loose inside the box.

The other circuits had grounds connected to the neutral bar.

Upon further inspection I noticed the loose ground wire had touched the inside edge of the breaker box and at some point had arced against the breaker box itself.

Upon even further inspection it appears the ground wire itself was presently hot.. although nothing was plugged into the single outlet for this circuit (30 amp 125v travel trailer hookup)

I turned off the circuit breaker and traced the circuit to an outdoor outlet that looks very old.

My question:

was the problem likely with the outlet? (many dead bugs and webs inside the outlet)

Can I just order a new outlet and hook it up ? Should I go ahead and reconnect the ground to the neutral bar?

The shop was built long ago by the person I bought the house from.. the breaker box doesn't appear to have a grounding bar at all which makes sense because there is no grounding electrode outside. The shop has independent electricity with it's own drop not connected to the house main box.

I'm a certified home inspector (took a class for my own benefit not for a profession) but I was trained to simply notice when it isn't correct and tell them to get an electrician to inspect it further.

What do you think about a new outlet and hooking the ground back up to the box?


texts: How to properly attach copper pipe to steel framing?

texts: What is a code-approved way to secure copper pipe to metal framing members which minimizes heat transfer and potential reactivity between the two different metals?


texts: Separate Thermostats for Heating and A/C

texts:
I recently purchased a vacation home that has two thermostats for a forced hot air gas furnace and a separate A/C unit that shares ductwork. The A/C also cools better when both the A/C and furnace fan are running.

I’d like to consolidate thermostats but don’t want the A/C fan running when the heat is on.

I was thinking about wiring the A/C fan connection to the compressor connection on the thermostat. That way the fan and compressor would run along with the furnace fan when the A/C is on but when the heat is on, only the furnace fan would run.

Does anyone see any issues with wiring it this way?


texts:
[ Update: I went to the back side of the walls, ie exterior. And updated a few more photos. Possibly the cause ]

   Saw this small holes over my fireplace. And lot of sand like stuff on the ground.

When I put my ear against the wall, I think I hear something.

Photos attached.

Is this because of termites ?

Adding three more photos for more context. First show inside of house, second size, its next to the fireplace. And one to show the back of it, where we have brick walls.

====  The wood looks damaged, possibly from water ===


texts: My led lights have worked fine for awhile, but today they wouldn't turn on! When I plug them in they flicker once and shut back off. I tried a different outlet and it did the same thing.


texts: Is fixing these stairs as simple as just replacing the stairs and supports?

texts:
It looks to me like it's just a support piece nailed into the wall with a 2x4 running across as a step. They go down to our unfinished basement and a few of them are starting to fail.

Anything I should be aware of?


texts: How can I plumb this bathroom configuration?

texts: Just wondering best way to run this bathroom configuration with venting. This bathroom will be in my basement.enter image description here


texts: Wiring diagram for light switch, GFCI, timer and bathroom fan

texts:
I have a 3-gang box, There are 3 14/2 NM cables coming inside box. One is the power supply, the other 2 are for the light switch and bathroom fan. I want to install a timer switch for the bathroom fan and also want GFCI protection for the fan. Is my wiring diagram correct?
Also, the timer switch has 4 stranded wire coming out of it, Should I directly connect black wire to GFCI load side or should I use wire connector to join them ?

Timer | GFCI


texts: Replace plywood sheathing under metal roof

texts:
I have a metal roof with exposed fasteners, and I have some mold in the attic on my plywood roof sheathing.  The source of the moisture that caused the mold is already fixed.  My mold inspector says it would be best to replace the sheathing rather than remediating it in place.  It isn't possible to replace the sheathing without taking the roof off.  The roof exterior isn't very old, and it's still in pretty good shape.
Is it possible to take the metal roof off, replace the sheathing, and then put the original metal roof back on?  Is this something that has been done before?  Would I create leaks?  Is this really dumb?
The other option is to put on a brand new roof + sheathing, but it seems a bit wasteful.


texts: Is it ok to stand atop my central A/C unit to install a missing soffit vent?

texts: Unless I go on top of the roof, it's the only to get to it without a step ladder. I don't know if the covers on these things are meant to stand the weight of a 250lb guy.  Aside from falling and breaking my arse, could I do serious damage to the unit itself?


texts: When using US-colored 14/3 for a simple switch does the red wire need to be marked?

texts:
In a typical switch loop (from the past) where 14/2 is used, the white wire should be marked on both ends with black tape to indicate it is a "hot" wire just like the black wire.

In a 14/3 cable, the black and red would be used for the switch and the white remains the neutral to be used in the switch box if it's ever needed (now required by code).  Is the red wire being red good enough to indicate that it's "hot", or should it also be marked with black tape to indicate it is actually the switched side of the black wire?

For the answer - is this codified, or just convention?