texts:
Recently our AC stopped working. The thermostat is working properly, but the unit just started blowing hot air. I've never worked on a AC before, but I was trying to save some money. Anyway:

I started with replacing the capacitor on the unit, after completing that I turned the power back on but still nothing. I pushed the plastic piece in on the contactor and the unit came on, to include the fan. Once I released it the system shut off again. I went inside and checked the breaker box and noticed that two fuses had blown, replaced them and went back outside to see if the unit was running and it was for about a minute then it stopped. Fuses had blown again.

I asked a guy at the AC parts place and he said it could be the fan motor, but he also said it may be the contactor. I replaced the capacitor, fan motor and contactor. The new fan motor had 4 wires and the old had three. Brown, brown/white, black and yellow wires. Instead of using a dual capacitor for the brown and brown/white wires I just capped the brown/white, attached the brown to the F on the three prong capacitor I installed earlier and connect the yellow to the C and the black the line 1 on the contactor.

I made sure everything was secured and all plugged in. Everything looked good and I replaced the fuses in the interior breaker box. Turned the main power on outside, but nothing, fuses did not blow on the inside and thermostat was still working inside. I can't figure it out. Any ideas?


texts: What underlayment material is this? Is it safe?

texts:
This underlayerment was found in a bathroom. It was under a cement layer with tiles on top. The house was constructed in the late 1980s.
What material is this underlayerment made of? Is it safe to handle?


texts: Toilet bowl cleaner container distorts flushing action

texts:
I placed a toilet bowl cleaner container (jar) into the tank per the instructions. Normally, previously, when flushed the water would completely empty the bowl. Now it fills up and drains but does not do the final emptying. It does drain down to the normal level after a bit. I did not expect there to be a change in the functionality of flushing.
I have adjusted the level in the tank so that there is the maximum fill. The photo shows where the overflow point is. It now fills completely to the overflow. This has not made the flush work as it did before.
I assume the volume of the jar has reduced the amount of water that is contained in the tank and that a solution involves increasing the amount that can be held even with the jar inside the tank.

I am looking for a change that will restore the previous flushing results and keeping the new cleaner.


texts: How do i wire light switch up in bedroom?

texts: My 4 wall plug ins read open neutral, the ceiling light switch has been removed all that is left in box is 1 whit 1 black and 1 bare copper wire how to fix light switch? Hu.1 of the white wires may have fallen in the wall, is that possible.


texts: Is it ok that the drain line for a septic system is above ground?

texts:
Looking to buy a property with mound septic.  The pipe coming out of the house going into the mound is above ground.  Is this ok?  Would the pipe not freeze?

Thank you.


texts:
While repainting my house, I pulled some plaster off the hallway ceiling and ended up with this beauty:

It's about a meter wide. Underneath is a layer of some kind of board, and a damp patch with some mould, which I suppose has caused the plaster to peel. Then a layer of wallpaper, then a thin layer of plaster and finally paint.

This seems complex. Can anyone suggest the best way to repair it? Could I just plaster over? Should I deal with the damp first? The house's outside needs its concrete render redoing which is probably where the damp comes from, but I can't fix that for a month or two; is it a good idea to repair this before doing that?


texts: We have a radon pump, a sump pump and a weeping system.  There is a constant bumping like someone is hammering on the outside wall.  We tracked it down to the inside corner of the house near the weeping system.  we cannot figure out what it is.


texts:
I have a number of bulbs running off a 36V transformer. 36V bulbs are quite expensive and so I wanted to use 12V automotive bulbs in the circuit.
Has anyone here ever done this?

If I place 3 12V bulbs in series I should be able to make them work, the problem is that when one blows, the other 2 will follow.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
I have dismantled one of the 4 lamp units and I'd like to provide additional information, mainly for future readers that want to address a similar problem.
I made a silly mistake! I thought they were 36V because I was reading from an oxidised base lamp, but it turns out the bulbs are actually 150W 32V
Now it seems this is a "designer transfomer/lamp set for pool illumination". I have only found one company that sells this ODD voltage lamp/transformer. The fact that the bulbs blow out very frequently (only a few hundred hours of operation) makes me think that maybe they are poorly engineered so they can sell more lamps.

The Transformer is 32V 4.7 A 150VA 240-250V 50Hz. I assume it is AC.
The cost of the bulbs are around $30, hence my desire to find an alternative solution.

I thank all the contributors for the useful tips and for reminding me that when they are in series, one will blow and the others will be turned off, which is probably not so bad.


texts: Why are leads of primary and secondary plugs in step down transformer shorted?

texts: In the image above, one of the leads in the primary plug of the 220v-110v step-down transformer has continuity with all the leads in the secondary outlet lead using a tester (see arrow in blue). I'm not talking about ground, because the ground is connected to the casing, no problem. But I thought the primary and secondary winding of step-down transformers are isolated. Why is continuity test positive? This is tested with transformer off. I plan to connect the neutral/ground to one of the leads of the secondary, but won't this cause a problem? Note it's not an autotransformer.


texts: Need snow shield ideas for photo eye case

texts: We have two automatic bay doors at our carwash. These doors are operated (open, close) by photoeyes. When installed they were installed diagonally to each other instead of horizontally. One of the eyes on both exit doors was installed pretty much right on the ground in metal square cases. Problem is that when it snows because one is so close to the ground snow covers the eye and the door opens. I've got to work and the doors are open and things are a little froze. I'm looking for ideas on how to build something around it to block it from being covered. I've thought about raising it a bit from the ground, but I'd have to raise the other one as well. I've got a couple pictures attached. Let me know if anymore are needed. Thanks


texts: Geothermal system that will not always cycle down at set point

texts: I have a Geothermal HVAC system (no outside unit). Occasionally it will continue to run well past the set point and not cycle off. It may do this once in a week or once in a few weeks. If I turn the system off completely and let it stand for 15 minutes or so, it will work just fine for a while, maybe a few hours or maybe several days. it is not the couple of degree plus or minus, it can be as much as 8 or 9 degrees lower than the set point in the cool mode. I have tightened all the contacts on the thermostat and it still does the same thing. Any suggestions.


texts: What's the maximum allowable height between a shower drain and the trap?

texts:
Is there a maximum height from my shower drain to the top of the trap (the length of the tailpipe)?
I am aware after the trap there must be a 1/4" per ft slope and the vent must be within 60".
Question: Can I put my trap 24" below my shower drain?


texts: How to properly support 2-3 with ground nm-b cable from floor joists

texts:
I bought a house where the previous homeowner hung 2-3 with ground nm-b (cable) with metallic conduit hangers from wall studs below the floor joists.

It looks like the hangers are cutting through the protective sheathing.

Other than running conduit or armored cable are there proper hangers to anchor this cable on its way to a laundry room sub-panel?


texts: Can a shower mixing valve leak water from cold to hot lines if there is no pressure on the hot line?

texts:
My hot water heater started leaking today, so I turned off water to my house at the curb. After the tank was drained, I disconnected the cold line and turned off the valve right above the hot water heater.

When I turned water back on at the curb, water started coming in to the tank from the hot line, eventually reaching ~0.5gal/min coming out the drain.

There were no faucets on in the house. What can cause this behavior? My hypothesis is that it could be the shower mixing valve but I'd like to confirm it's just that and not something more... sinister. (lots of lousy DIY work in this house from the previous owners).


texts: How to wire a light with two sets of wires

texts:
How do I wire a light fixture here? There is a junction box above the bathroom vanity. I want to add a vanity light here. There are two sets of wires in the j-box: One which has black and white, and the other has black, white, and red.

The bathroom has 3 switches: One controls the overhead light above the vanity (which I would like to tie this new fixture into), one controls the light above the shower, and one for the fan. When the switch (for the overhead light) is off, I get 0 V between red and white, 125 V between red and black, and 125 V between black and white. When the switch is on, I get 125 V between red and white, 0 V between red and black, and 125 V between black and white.

I believe I would wire the two wires from the fixture into the red and white, but just want to get some confirmation. Thanks!


texts: How can I wire several receptacles between three-way switches so they're half switched?

texts: I have 12/2 power into first switch, 12/3 through all three split receptacles and to the second switch. I just can't wrap my head around the right connections.


texts: I have a boiler system with thermostats and valves for three floors. before i changed the boiler what ever thermostat called for heat worked for that floor. Now all thermostats have to be on or calling for heat. This makes the top floor hot and barely any temperature change in the basement. I see how this helps with gas efficiency but I only want to heat each floor differently. I dont remember a lot about the wiring on the old system. What do I need to rewire to put it back to what it was.?  Thanks for any help or input.


texts: Washing Machine Agitates, But Won't Spin

texts:
My old top-loading Maytag washing machine (model no. LAT9304AA) won't spin clothes dry. It fills, agitates, and drains fine, but it won't spin -- at least not with wet clothes in it.

When I totally empty the machine, I can get it to spin. But it makes a banging noise and the basket appears to be off balance.

Some other clues:

There's a burnt smell coming from the washer when in the spin cycle
I checked the drain line and I don't see any signs of blockage
I checked the lid switch and it works OK
We have a cleaning lady that routinely overfills the machine

Any help would be appreciated -- thanks!


texts:
We are currently doing a full en-suite bathroom remodel.  About 2 weeks ago all of the plumbing was completed and about the same time we noticed that we weren’t getting as hot of water in the other bathroom we have been using as well as the kitchen sink, etc.   I gave it a few days and no change so I called the plumbing company that installed our 50 gallon Rheem Pro atomospheric tank in late November 2017 as I figured something might be faulty.

They came this morning and as usual, everything seemed “reasonable” to him upon inspection and the tank fired up after about 6 gallons of water was run through the shower head.  He adjusted the mixing valve on the shower to allow for a bit more hot water.  Stated he felt it was our consumption which was causing the “lack of hot water”. He didn’t think it would be the dip tube cause the tank is so new.

This evening we were doing dishes and had the faucet cranked to full hot and we were getting luke warm/cool water.  I checked the tanked and the burner wasn’t even on.  I adjusted the thermostat and it kicked in.

I’m at a loss here and quite annoyed that despite’s having the tank inspected we are still experiencing issues.  Could the new plumbing be causing issues or is it entirely conincidental?  FYI the water lines into the bathroom from prior to the renovation were used just adjusted as required. The water main was turned off multiple times over several days during the plumbing install.


texts: I moved into a house with travertine floors. They appear to have been sealed and polished. I recently learned that travertine is highly porous. I recently noticed this tile where the seal appears to have worn away and the stone is "powdering." (No idea if that's the correct term.) What do I use to repair and/or seal this?


texts: How to diagnose an occupancy sensor that always detects motion?

texts:
I've had a Lutron Maestro MS-OPS2 installed in a closet for 3 years and it has worked flawlessly. Recently it started turning on and staying on. To my knowledge, nothing has changed. I can manually turn the switch off but after about 30 seconds it turns back on again. I have experimented with the different modes in the switch's manual (vacancy mode vs. occupancy mode), different sensitivity settings, etc. and nothing changes. The switch acts like it sees something.
FWIW, the switch is driving an LED strip that draws about 20W.
My question is: how can I tell if the switch has simply gone bad or if something else in my house has changed? I've had no electrical work done recently and I know of no new devices on that circuit or even physically nearby.


texts: Does painting over stylized wall tile in bathroom look good?

texts:
We are preparing to list our house to sell and are nervous to paint over the tiles for fear it will look worse. There are spots that really need to be addressed, the image is of a spot that's in good condition.

Will painting over these types of tiles look ok?


texts: We have a Fridgidaire FRS26ZRG but for some reason the water and ice is not working.  I of course pulled the refrigerator out and checked the supply line.  There didn't seem to be any pressure.  I disconnected from the fridge and got a nice flow of water coming in from the supply.  However when I connect it and try using the water, nothing happens.  It makes a sound like it's trying to pump the water through but I don't see the water coming through the line and there doesn't seem to be any pressure once I connect the line back up and turn the water back on.  Is there something obvious here?  I tried holding the water dispenser in for a good 3 minutes and all I could get was a drip.  Is there some other valve that needs opening?  Is it a clog?  Is there a more serious problem?  Thanks for any insight you can offer on this.


texts: Can you replace valve stem packing without shutting off the faucet?

texts:
The main shutoff to my house is a 3/4" FIP, that's leaking out the valve stem... the last several times turned on and off, it has 're-sealed' itself with lime and calcium deposits, but not this time, getting 1-2 drops a second.
Since I've got nothing upstream, can I replace the packing with pressure on?  I could minimize pressure by opening up all my faucets during the repair.


texts: How do I cover large gaps of floor from wall with baseboard?

texts:
I just installed laminate floors in my basement.

One wall (drywall) is not perfectly straight, leaving an area of the floor with a space as big as 1 3/4 inches from the wall.

I don't like the idea of rip cutting a laminate floor piece to a thin and long triangle shape to fill the gap.

What's an easy way of covering the gap?


texts: How to properly seal the drain in the refrigerator? And how to clean the condenser coil?

texts:
Had a water leak from the fridge (GE GSL25JGDBLS, it's a self-defrosting side-by-side). It worked perfectly for 8 years. Here's what i found inside and in the back:

Pretty sure the culprit was that the drain tube (or plug?) inside was not fully in place (how??why??), so defrost water overspilled into the bottom until there was too much of it and it started leaking when the door is open for too long:

How do I fix the drain in our refrigerator describes a very similar case.

I pushed the plug(?) inside fully in, so that now defrost water should drain through the tube:

That leaves me with 2 questions:

How to seal that plug? There is some gummy "ring" around it but it is somewhat too large. Should i use anything else? Bonus: how/why did it pop out like that?
How to clean the condenser coil thoroughly? 4 years ago i used a vac and toothbrush (as far as i could reach), it looked a lot worse then. How can I clean the condenser coils on my Maytag freezer states the same question, but it is unanswered. Problem obviously is that the coil cannot be removed without breaking the refrigerant loop. And it is very hard to get to all the spots.


texts: Condensation between chair mat and rug in basement: a concern?

texts:
We have a 1960 two story colonial with a finished basement in New England. The basement floor is wall-to-wall rug, on a rug pad, on old vinyl tiles, and then a concrete slab; I assume there's no explicit water control anywhere. We're on top of a well-drained hill, so standing water hasn't been a problem, although the basement can get a bit humid in the summer.
Two weeks ago I put down a 4' x 5' clear plastic chair mat in front of my basement desk. Today I noticed that moisture is condensing under parts of the mat; if I lift the mat up there are drops of water condensed on its bottom surface, and the rug feels damp.
BTW, I believe the affected areas are where the water pipes from the boiler to the radiators run through the slab. I can track the pipes with an IR thermometer; the rug over the pipes is about 5°F warmer than the rest of the rug. A second mat, which has no pipes under it, isn't showing condensation.
I assume that if I do nothing I'll get an unlicensed ecosystem (i.e. mold) under the mat. Without pulling up the rug is there anything I can do to reduce the moisture?


texts: Can I install false LED light bulbs in a chandelier to reduce the total light output?

texts:
I have a chandelier that holds 18 lights bulbs. The bulbs I have are non-dimmable 4 watt LED bulbs. I really only need 12 bulbs working at a time.  Would it cause any harm only using 12 and hollowing out 6 old bulbs to use as place holders?

Or, is there a way to tape a bulb so that it doesn't light up and doesn't present any electrical issues?

I'm more worried about electrical issues than anything.

Thanks for the responses so far. I may try using an plastic/rubber/fiber insulator at the bottom of the bulb.


texts: Cutting carbon-steel sheet with a sliding grinder

texts:
I am new to metalworking and I want to cut some 2mm carbon-steel sheet using my grinder and proper disk. My points are:

I can not afford to buy a plasma for awhile
I want to slice pieces of 800 x 200mm in triangle shape
buying flat bars doesn't solve my problem.

I want to cut 3 or 4 pieces per weekend and I my main question here is: Can I work using this tool without destroying it?
Because as a beginner I have the impression that this is too much stress on the tool. Thanks.


texts: Best insulation to adhere to back of door leading to attic space?

texts:
In the closet of an upstairs bedroom, there is a door about 3/4 the size of a normal door that leads to an unheated attic space.  It gets pretty chilly in that closet during the winter months, since the door is a simple hollow core wooden door that does very little to keep out the cold air in the attic.

I'd like to add some insulation to the attic-facing side of the door, but I wasn't sure if I needed a special insulated foam board or some other kind of insulation for the task.  Would a general purpose foam board adhered to the door be the best way to keep the closet warm?


texts: Kitchenaid gas stove - burner knob won't turn

texts:
This is a Kitchenaid two oven free standing stove with 5 burners.  (middle one is useless in my opinion.)  Anyway...

On day my right rear gas burner knob decided not to turn.  it will push in, but it won't turn to ignite. I just took it apart - the stove front- and it looks fine.  I tried spraying that particular knob with WD40 and liquid wrench.  No luck.  Any more suggestions??

If I could figure it out, can I switch the middle burner assembly with the right rear one?


texts: Am I able to wire a 3-Prong dryer outlet with 8/3 Romex?

texts:
I see similar questions but maybe not as specific....
I am moving my laundry location. As we are intending a remodel eventually I just used some 8/3 romex I had left over to junction with the existing 10/3 cable to the dryer. They had this hooked to a 3-prong outlet. It wasn't until I was preparing the new 3-prong outlet that I realized my 8/3 is meant for a 4-prong. Can I still wire the 3-prong with the 8/3 romex?


texts: Replacing Single switch with timer switch - Original two switches connected

texts:
I want to replace a switch with a timer switch, however on checking out the wiring the two original switches have a black wire connecting the two. The switch I want to replace is the rightmost switch. Here's a picture:

Am I correct in thinking that the Hot wire is the bottom wire coming into the left switch, then is connected to the right switch? So when adding my new switch I can use that linked hot wire?

Also, I see ground (copper) wires affixed to screws at the back of the electrical box. Can I simply fasten my new timer switches ground (green) wire onto one of these screws to ground it? Not sure they are long enough to attach to a wire nut

Update: The switch I am adding is a Leviton VPT24-1PZ


texts: How do I remove these closet sliding doors

texts:
I want to take these closet doors off but I’ve tried everything and they won’t come off. There’s no space to lift it up or angle and take the bottom track out first. i’ve also tried to take out the bottom track but it’s attached to the wood.
Bottom track:

Top track:


texts: help me find C wire on williamson boiler and where should I connect it

texts:
I have Williamson boiler GWA 140,000 BTU. I have 2 zones in my house for heating. On one zone I want to install smart thermostat so, I need C wire. The old thermostat for this zone had 2 wires: red and white. The other zone's thermostat has 4 or 5 wires.
I am attaching the photos of boiler's wiring and one and off switch. Also can you tell if I am connecting c wire for only one zone then, should I do it at zone valve or at the thermostat?
Image 1, shows the C wire I found and the manual says it should be to black wire to left on TSTAT wiring in third image

Image 2,Just the boiler and all the wiring

Image 3,TSTAT for red, green, white etc wires. BUT ON THIS BOILER IT DOESN'T FOLLOW THAT

Image 4,This is the on and off switch. The wires from the zones valves are connected here. The Transformer here has a blue wire. Does it mean the thermostat with 4 or 5 wire cable running has C wire?

Image 5, This is low water cutoff and the C wire in Image 1 is connected to white wire which connects to this low water water cutoff sensor.

Image 6, Another view of on and off switch. The black tape is where zone valve wiring is connected


texts: What type of anchor should I use for ceiling hook for ceiling fan?

texts:
Going to install a ceiling fan, may I know what type of anchor bolt/sleeve to install ceiling hook?

Yes is a norm.

Location : Singapore

Ceiling Hook
http://www.kdk.sg/ceiling-hook.html


texts: Building a retaining wall around our shed - moisture barrier needed?

texts: I'd like to build a retaining wall/large planter around our shed to create some scenery and block the "crawspace" underneath the shed.  Should we use a moisture barrier against the exterior walls of the shed for additional protection against rotting (shed is wood siding), or should the stones for the planter provide sufficient protection?


texts: How difficult is it to repair or replace a preserved wood foundation?

texts:
I am looking at buying a house that has a PWF (Preserved Wood Foundation) foundation. Though there are some benefits to having one there seems to be varying opinions on such a foundation. I'm wondering if anyone has had experience/issues with PWF?

For those that have had experience/issues with it:

How hard/expensive is it to repair PWF foundations compared to traditional concrete foundations
If you had to replace the entire foundation how difficult is it compared to concrete foundations (both cost and feasibility).
What is the expected lifespan?


texts: Need help to determine if load bearing wall and or how to fix

texts:
[![enter image description here][2]][2]I am remodeling my upstairs bathroom and removed the shower pan and floor was rotted. The plywood extends under the wall into my bedroom. My question is how can I remove the rest of the wood under the wall to replace with new, also part of the corner wall. I put a few pictures to show the attic location as well, my bedroom is vaulted then drops down into the bathroom.
[2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXYro.jpg![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGhyD.jpg)


texts: Mounting a Boiler when the studs are not 16 on center

texts:
When looking for the studs to mount a boiler I found the studs are 18" on center. I even double checked my stud finder by using a magnet to find the nails in the drywall and they corroborate original findings. Now the mounting plate that came with the boiler is designed for 16" spacing, so it won't work as things are now.
My plan now is to mount two 2"x4"s, possibly a x6" on the top, across the studs I have and then mount the plate onto that.
Are there any codes or issues that could conflict with that?


texts: Replacing Lighted Ceiling Fan w Fixed Light

texts: I just replaced a lighted ceiling fan with a fixed light fixture. My wall has two switches, one that controlled the fan and another that controlled the light. At the ceiling junction box, there was an off white wire, a black wire, a red wire, and the ground. My light fixture had black, white, and a ground wire. I connected the black to black, white to off white and the ground to ground. I capped the red. The light works fine when I turn it on and off but the light is now controlled by the switch which previously controlled the fan. That tells me the black wire in the junction box powered the fan previously and now sends power to the new light fixture. My question is can I keep it this way or should I connect the black fixture wire to the red junction box wire?


texts:
I have a question about grounding. The scenario is my shop has a concrete floor with metal framing and siding. The panel is mounted to the wall via struts. A #2 Al ground wire is ran from the meter to the panel. I don't believe they ran a separate ground rod for the panel. I already have a ground rod right outside the building where we had some lightning rods installed. Am i going to hurt anything by running a ground wire from the panel grounding bar to the ground rod? It's going to cost me a few dollars for 6' of copper wire to do it and next to zero effort.

The building is concrete slab with rebar but no way to access it now. They installed metal weld plates into the wet concrete and welded the upright posts to them.

Grounding rods are fairly inexpensive. I think I will tie into the one for the lightning rods, tie the grounding lug inside the
Panel to structural steel and bury one more rod in an open trench in digging today to lay line out to a sub panel

Thank you for your help


texts: Wait how long after applying wood stain before urethane pass?

texts: I am wondering how long after applying the stain do I need to wait before applying urethane. The weather in my parts is a bit capricious, so I am keen to keep wood outside as little as possible.


texts: How to run an additional coax cable into into the attic for a TV antenna?

texts:
I have a block wall construction house in Florida that was built in 2018. The contractor built in coaxial cables into each room (1 each) for cable TV and/or an Internet cable modem.

I recently dropped my cable TV service due to the cost, but I am still using the Internet service thru the existing coax cable in the living room.

I would like to run a new coax cable into the attic so I can use an antenna with my existing TV in the living room. I took a photo of the wall outlets before the drywall was done, so I can see the white cable line that goes up the wall. See photo below.

Things to consider:

I'm would like to put the antenna in the attic, as our HOA may not allow me to mount an antenna on the side of my house where the TV is located.
I'm not sure if I'll be able to pull two coax cables thru the top of the wall. There's some white spacers of some kind and some orange insulation at the top hole that may get hung up if I try to pull an additional cable using the existing cable.
This is an outside wall (block, most likely with insulation) and is at the low end of the roof slope. So, there is very little to no room to get to the wall from within the attic.

What would be the best way to run a new line with the existing line?


texts: Is this Fafco valve actuator actually a Jandy?

texts:
My pool's solar panel valve actuator is not working any more. The temperature panel lights up but the valve seems broken. It doesn't move and I can't manually adjust the handle. I bought the house a couple of years ago after it was foreclosed on. I don't have any info on what was installed by the previous owner but the housing says "Fafco" on the top and "Jandy Valve" on the handle. I can't find any valve actuators made by "Fafco" online and nothing comes up for what appears to be the model number on the side.... Can I replace it with the Jandy 2444 valve actuator? They look exactly the same from the pictures I've seen.

This is what I've got...

And this is what I am looking to replace it with...
http://poolandspasupply.com/jandy-4424-jva-2444-aqualink-valve-actuator.html


texts:
I will be removing my old carpet and getting a new one. I am not sure the height of the carpet yet. But i need to finish installing door jambs and I think I'll need to leave at-least 3/8 gap for the carpet to be tucked in, correct (orange line)? Or just put door jamb all the way to the sub floor (blue line)?

What i am concerned about is the gap between the tile schluter and the carpet. As it stands, it is about 1 inch gap now between the sub floor and the schluter. If carpet is 1/2 inch in height, there would be a visible gap between them. Can carpet installer maybe build some sort of buildup to raise the carpet at the and or i will be stuck with a gap there?

Any advise welcome.


texts: well pump keeps turning on and off every few seconds

texts:
I woke up this morning to find that the water feeding the toilets in the house was full of dirt/mud/silt. After taking a look at my well pump system I found that the pressure switch keeps turning the pump on and off every second or two. Each time the switch turns the pump off, the water from the pressure tank discharges back down the line towards the well/pump. After enough pressure is lost, the switch activates the pump again. This repeats ad infinitum.

I believe that the water discharging back down into the well is causing dirt to be kicked up in the well, which makes the water in my toilets filled with dirt since the water line to them isn't filtered.

Any way, what is most likely the problem? It seems that there should be a check valve or something to keep the pressure in the pressure tank / line from escaping back towards the well. Maybe that went bad?

Or maybe the pressure switch went bad? When the switch is turned on for the first time (after letting all the pressure out of the line), the water pressure worked its way up to 80 or 90 psi, and stayed there with the pump on for a minute before the switch turned the pump off... it seemed like the switch should have turned the pump off sooner.

Some basic details: My system consists of a ~100 ft deep well with a submersible pump, a pressure switch (that was replaced about 2 years ago), a control/electrical box for the switch, and a 5 or 10 gallon pressure tank that looks fairly new (it's at least 3 years old).

EDIT: video of the behavior (action starts at 4:10): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfE98N5p1gQ&list=UU-PYeNYSUiTfiH1ZfcD9_cw

EDIT 2: video of pressure behavior when 2 outlets are open letting water run (remains at ~56psi with pump on): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDqSMMJUVXY&list=UU-PYeNYSUiTfiH1ZfcD9_cw

And more info: With the pump off, and pressure on line at 0 psi, I measured the tank pressure and it was at around 65psi - so I'm guessing the bubble/bladder isn't bad? But the pressure might need to be lowered in the tank?

Any help/advice/suggestions you can give me is appreciated! Thanks in advance!


texts: Rattling noise in Bosch WFK2401UC Compact Washer on spin

texts:
I have a compact Bosch stackable washer and dryer model #WFK2401UC. When it goes into the spin cycle, mainly when the revolutions are slower, it makes a rattling noise  like there is spare change rattling around in it.
I've had washers that get coins "stuck" in the washer drum fins  but I don't see how this is the case on this one. The fins seal pretty tight.
Some searches indicate that it's the bearings in the drum. I'm almost afraid to ask, What could the problem be?


texts: Should sags in my floor be repaired before refinishing hardwood floors?

texts:
We bought a ~50 year old house a few years ago. At the time we knew there was a few humps in the flooring, in particular over the beams. However since we've lived in the house for a while now, we've noticed we have sagging floors in a few spots throughout the house.
It occurs on both the main floor and the second floor (above). On the main floor, we see the biggest sag underneath our eating area and under our fridge. I've measured the sags (as best I can) and they range from 1/2 inch to maybe 3/4 inch sags (over 10-12 feet span). We've also noticed that essentially everywhere in the house when your near the outside frame, you can feel the floors sag right away. It wouldn't be noticeable to 75% of people, but I notice it.
We're debating doing a renovation of our main floor and trying to decide the best ways to spend our money. We have hardwood floors throughout the main floor and while there are areas where we will need to replace some boards, on the whole refinishing the hardwood will be much cheaper than refinishing the entire floor.  Our basement is finished so hard to view joists without ripping out the ceiling.
My concern is the structure of the house might be flawed and is something that needs to be fixed, but I've talked to friends who are "handy" and they say they think it's unlikely. If I have to sister every joist in our house, my guess is it will eat up a lot of our renovation budget. Should I simply fix the sloped floors where possible and live with the rest? Or should I rip up the ceiling in the basement and inspect/fix the joists ?


texts: What is this texture called and how can I match it?

texts:
I repaired a 2' x 4' section of our ceiling, and I'd like to match the surrounding texture.

Is this a sprayed texture like orange peel, or just some kind of roller stipple?

Assuming it was orange peel, I tried matching it with a Homax spray gun.  I did get a decent orange peel, but it's a lot more 'blotchy' than the one I'm trying to match, which has very small raised bumps.

I've tried various combinations of mud, pressure, etc.  My last attempt was joint compound thinned 4:1 with water, 70 PSI, and a 4mm tip.  I'm using a Porter Cable C2002 (6 Gal 150 PSI) compressor.

Note that the gun needs 7CFM @ 25PSI, which is probably more than the compressor can do - the C2002 is rated 3.5 SCFM @ 40PSI.  But I'm not sure if that's the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: What could cause faucets to spit and sputter only in the fall/winter?

texts:
Except in summer, faucets sputter and spit. What could be letting air into the system?

In this case the setup is in the Northeast USA, New York State, with a pressure bladder tank, and shallow well. It looks like the image below.  The pipes leading up are the distribution.  The pipes into the wall are distribution and pump inlet.  The pump does not appear to short cycle.

I found a possible answer, but it does not explain the winter/summer dichotomy.


texts: Nest thermostat - electrical buzzing/humming noise

texts:
I have recently installed two nest thermostats (the black gen 3, and white model E). The system is gas radiator heat wired to the model E via the usual Rh and W wires, and Rh, Rc, Y, G, W wired to the other one to control both heat and AC. I have no C wire.

Both thermostats emit a quiet electrical buzz, but it is definitely noticeable. This is happening whether heat is on or off. It stops if I take off the thermostat cover.

Any idea what could be causing this? Is this normal? Anything I could check for?

Thank you


texts: Converting open riser staircase to closed

texts:
My staircase has open risers, and  metal riser bars between the treads.
I can only fit a few millimeters between the riser bar and the tread. Would 3mm plywood work as a riser or am I better off trying to remove the metal riser bars?
I do not have the tools to cut through the metal riser bars so I would rather leave them in if possible
I’m worried anything thin enough to fit would be too thin and likely  bend/creak
How should I best convert these to closed?


texts:
If I have a conduit with 6 wires (3 separate circuits), and I want them to split at some point, can I send the conduit (A) to a 4-inch square junction box and then send 2 wires to leave the junction box in conduit B, and 4 wires to leave the junction box in conduit C?

All without splicing, just continuous run through the junction box.

Also, is splicing or no-splicing recommended one way or the other?


texts: I have a large entertainment center that needs to be mounted to 5/8" drywall with metal studs. The entertainment center weighs about 180lbs by itself. In addition, I'll have a tv flush mounted, pictures, books, and surround speakers on/in the entertainment center. I plan on using strap toggles for all of the anchor points. There are 6 brackets holding the entertainment center to the wall, with two anchor points (screws) holding each bracket in. My question is; if I use toggle straps for each anchor point (12 in total), and each toggle strap is rated to hold up to 70lbs; will that be enough to hold everything? In other words, will the weight be dispersed across all the toggle straps, so that each is holding well less than 70lbs? ...Also, should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall? There won't be much weight coming out from the wall; no swivel mount, just shelves that are about 12 inches deep; so we're talking mostly shear force.


texts: I need to fit 3 switches into a narrow space. Is there any rule against mounting a 3 gang box so that it is taller than it is wide? I will be using two single pole switches and one three way switch.


texts: How should I prepare an all-concrete warehouse space before building out?

texts:
I haven't put together my complete buildout plan yet, but I expect that most of the preparatory steps are the same regardless of where I'm going with it. The space is approx 100'x100'x16', and contains a grid of alternating concrete and steel columns. It has seen decades of use as an industrial space, leading to a very rough floor, chipped walls and columns, etc. There are also sections of raw cinder block wall in some places.
What general steps should I look to take first? I know I need to pressure wash the floor. If I pressure wash the walls I expect the paint to start peeling. What's the best type and method of painting to cover that much surface quickly? Is there something I can do to the floor to fill in all the chips and scratches, without adding a complete new surface? .1/8" of leveling compound across 10k square feet promises to be expensive and time consuming, especially if the floor isn't level to begin with. Whether I fill in the chips or not, should I seal or stain or otherwise treat the floor to make it more durable?
Are there any obvious things that I'll regret not having done six months from now?


texts: Installing a window casement operator (on a window that's never had one before)

texts:
I have an FCL (left-handed) wood-framed casement window in my apartment. I'm looking to add an operator to it. Right now it's just a manual push open/pull close. I think I've found an option or two, but it's unclear to me what features I need. I'm also not sure exactly how to take the measurements. So:

When do I need an operator with a link? For example, right now I am looking at this operator without a link, or this one with a link. Does a link just add more stability to the open movement, or is there another reason one might need one?
How do I know what length of an arm I need? I assume I can just open the window to its fullest extent, then measure from the point on the sill where I would install the operator to the point on the window where I would expect the operator to connect to, but how do I know where that would be?


texts: How to install a toilet on raised flooring

texts:
I’ve had to raise the flooring in my basement by 3 inches and this means the bathroom floor will also be raised. I now have to install a toilet on top of a 2 inch foam barrier and 3/4 inch plywood. I’m concerned about the per/sq/inch force of the toilet, so was wondering if I should replace the foam with plywood in the area that that toilet will rest on.
I’m also assuming that the exit pipe (floor flange) can be raised with an extension?


texts: Why is my power flickering across multiple circuits?

texts:
I woke up this morning and went downstairs to find that none of the lights would come on (lights were working fine upstairs). My first instinct was thinking that a breaker had tripped, so I went to the breaker box and checked everything. Nothing out of order. I started investigating a little bit more and discovered that the power was not actually out... just flickering. If I turned on lights, they would occasionally flick and try to come on and then go back out. The dishwasher kept clicking like a relay was opening and shutting continuously. I went downstairs to discover that the fan for the heat kept trying to spin up and then dying.

My second hypothesis was a simple loose wire at a switch or outlet... but that can't be the problem either. The problem is affecting about 50% of the circuits in the house, seemingly at random. Fridge works, range is out. Basement lights are fine, basement sockets are dead. Etc. A loose wire would only affect one circuit.

I killed power to everything but the fridge to prevent damage and went to work. I plan to take a look again when I get home. Any ideas what may be going on?

Things that might be related or might be a complete coincidence:

We recently (work finished a week ago) had a deck put on. This required an electrician to move an indoor outlet, add an outdoor outlet and light, and install a switch for the outdoor light.
It also just got cold enough for us to turn the heat on. Last night was the second night it was on this year. When I got up, it was 63 degrees in the house because the heat could not actually turn on.


texts: Can I come off the meter box to add a 60 amp subpanel

texts:
The service to our house is buried. The transformer sits beside our meter post. The 200 AMP service main panel is 130 ft from the meter post in the house. The unattached garage and workshop are 30 meters from the post in another direction.

I want to install a 60 AMP sub panel for the workshop/garage. Can I run it from the Meter box to the workshop/garage, or do I have to run from the main panel in the house? I'm planning to run 2-2-2-4 Black Stranded AL Quad Dyke URD Cable underground in a conduit.

Can I feed two panels from the same meter box?

Any help is appreciated.


texts: Help identifying a walkout door threshold and repair options

texts: The walkout door in my basement has a cracked threshold. I searched again and again on multiple online sites, Home Depot, and Lowes trying to find a make & model similar to mine, but couldn't find one. Does anyone recognize what this is and what are my repair options?


texts: Are switch screws sufficient for load grounds?

texts:
In California, in a metal gang box with the line ground attached to the box with a ground screw, I understand that I don't need to attach a ground wire to a switch (screwed tight, captive washers removed).

But I do need to ground the load conductor directly to the box? Is it acceptable to attach the load ground to the switch ground screw?

Or must I attach it more directly to the box (such as with a clip, nut, etc)


texts:
I decided that I want to replace my windows, and figured I'd start with a small bathroom window downstairs. I build wooden furniture as a hobby, but have very little experience doing construction/carpentry.

So before I even start I want to just remove some trim and see what I'm working with and if I can identify the jamb, etc.  For the most part every window consists of aluminum strips mounted to the jamb, with the sashes riding in the strips. Then there is a strip mounted to the outside of the jamb with storm windows mounted to this strip.

I removed the inside trim and saw that there's a storm window mounted to a strip installed in the frame. So I went outside and pull the screws out from all around the storm window, cut some caulk that might have been installed when the put vinyl siding on the house, and assumed that it would pop right out. The thing didn't budge. When I look back on the inside I see that it looks like construction adhesive (not caulk) holding the window to the strip.

The screws holding the storm window were mostly stripped, so I'm thinking at some point someone glued them in.

I can break the adhesive on the bottom and get it to move, but I can get access to the top of the storm window.

My questions are:

Does this assessment that they've glued the storm window in seem correct - shouldn't it just pop right out when I remove the screws? Or is there something else holding it in?

Does this look like the jamb?

Finally, should I remove this flashing first? I don't want to bend it up getting in there to remove old windows, but I don't want to remove it if it does not go back on easily. I can see where it is nailed on - it was installed when we had vinyl siding done about 5 years ago. There's some caulk around it too.

Ultimately, I think I'm going to have to destroy the storm window to get it out, but I want to have a replacement ready to go in case I break the regular window. The measurements look to be 24" by 33 1/2" - you can actually see in one of the photos someone wrote "33 1/4". It's just weird because it almost looks like the windows were kind of put together on site or something.

I've found a couple other storm windows which are glued on - you can see in each case the strip which I believe is supposed to hold them is mostly rotted away, so I'm guess that's why they glued. Luckily, most are not glued.

Any other advice on this situation would be greatly appreciated!


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Need an apparently-discontinued moulding profile; where to look?

I added a closet added to a room. There was no crown molding that matched at HD or Lowes. Is there anything I can do to try and find a match? I would like to complete the project. The home is a 1920's bungalow in MA.


texts: Builders covered 3 exterior vents for finished basement bathroom fan, laundry room fan and dryer. How do we find the I ended gent space and how can it be fixed with the least mess and inconvenience. This is two-year-new tract home.


texts: Do bump outs on colonial homes typically have gutters?

texts: I am going through a home inspection of a 100 year old home that was built in 1915. It is common to have a bump-out of 1-3 feet off the home. Do these bump out's generally have gutters or not? If so, please provide proof or reasoning behind either answer.


texts: Is my homemade chandelier design safe and does it meet code?

texts:
I have built a hanging bulb chandelier. It has 13 bulbs total (7) 25W LED and (6) 60W standard filament bulbs. They go into 2 wire sockets with no ground. I used 18/2 cloth jacketed wire and ran them into a metal electrical box which is fastened to the top of the fixture. I connected all the black wire using 5 port Wago lever nuts and the same with the red wire. I then connected one of the black wires and one of the red wires to the wires coming out of the ceiling which were 14/2 Wground via wago lever nut. I attached the ground wire to the box which is attached to the fixture. I have created a very crude diagram. Can anyone take a look and let me know if this looks alright and is up to code? Thank you very much.

Thank you very much for looking into my question.


texts: What is the name for this type of anchor bolt with a "leg"?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out what this is called. This was used in a basketball hoop to connect a piece of square bar to a flat metal frame. The bolt went through the metal frame, then into a hole in the metal square bar. When tightened, as you'd expect, it snugly secured the frame to the square bar.

It's frustrating because I'm not sure what to call this thing. It has a "leg" that's a little different than J-bolts or the 90-degree anchor bolts that I've seen advertised.

Any ideas on what I should refer to it as? Also, is this a "standard" bolt or is this some weird one-off thing that no one else uses?


texts: Can I use an extension cord for a mini fridge?

texts: I read a thread earlier basically saying a fridge should not be run on an extension cord.  I was curious why that is. And how it would be different than having the same distance ran in the wall to an outlet.  But I was really more curious if it would be any safer for a mini fridge instead.  I am building a fermentation chamber and kegorator out of a mini fridge.  The fridge plugs into a thermo controller.  The thermo controller has a 3 foot power cord on it.  This is a very popular thing to do, people do it all the time without burning down their house or garage.  I may have to put another 1 or 2 foot extension between the controller and fridge cord.  All this will be tucked out of the way and secured.


texts: How do I fix the drain in our refrigerator

texts:
It's a GE TBX25PASJRAA.  Water collects in the refrigerator compartment, a tray placed at the back of the top shelf catches most of it.

I assume it's defrost water that's not going where it's supposed to.  I had originally thought the drain line was plugged but when I pulled the fridge out I see it contains a trap with water in it which strongly implies it's not blocked.  This is part #315 on this diagram:

Parts Diagram

Also, I'm not finding any manuals that indicate how to work on it.  Do such things exist anymore?


texts: Would there be a problem installing 20A switches on a 15A circuit?

texts:
I've installed 20A switches on 15A circuits before, namely on the circuit supplying my kitchen lights. It was primarily to take advantage of the side-clamp wiring available on these beefier switches instead of the curl-and-screw flavor of side-wiring, or the push-in wiring, that you normally see on 15A S/P switches.

A friend of mine says that having a switch of higher capacity than the branch circuit breaker can cause the breaker to trip. I say he's full of it; a switch is a switch, and a 20A S/P will just be beefier than a 15A. As long as it's rated for at least the amperage draw of the circuit, you're fine, IMO.

Thoughts?

On a related note, does the same apply to outlets? He may be confusing using a 20A switch and using a 20A outlet; the outlet, unlike the switch, supports plugging in appliances that will draw >15A, and if you do, that WILL trip the breaker (though as 20A outlets support plugging in parallel-bladed 15A appliances, if you KNOW the branch is 15A and don't try to plug in a T-bladed plug, you're still OK).


texts: What are the downsides to a DIY heat exchanger on my shower drain?

texts:
I have a shower stall built into a bathroom.  It will not accept a tub in its current incarnation, so this applies to showering only.  Outside of the hassle around fabrication, what are the downsides to thermally bonding the cold water copper pipe to a segment of copper pipe on the shower drain?  The drain is sloped, so there is a lot of time that the water is in contact with the piping.
The idea is to preheat the incoming water so less hot water is needed from the thermostatic valve.


texts:
I bought a new DeWalt 779 Miter Saw, rated at 15A. Worked fine for a few days in the garage, then I added two more outlets on the same 20A circuit that I had been using. After a few cutting sessions, the breaker started tripping when using the new outlets (20A also). (I have two refrigerators and a laydown freezer on at all times on that circuit too.)
In order to finish a project, I ran a 100ft extension cord to a outlet on the front porch and the saw worked great. Because of this, I decided to add another outlet in the garage, running 20A Romex from the porch outlet to the inside wall of the garage to use for the Saw. Lo and behold, when I found the breaker to shut off the circuit to the porch, I discovered that that outlet is on the same circuit as I was using before. However, the Saw and a huge floor fan both work perfectly from the new outlet, even with extension cords.
Any ideas why it seems all these things can coexist on that circuit at the same time, except when the saw is plugged into one particular outlet? I guess it could be a problem with the  one or both of the new outlets, but what would I look for or test before I plan on replacing them?


texts:
We recently had photoelectric panels installed. We have 8 kw. In Germany this is subsidised and we reckon to break even in about 9 years, just by selling it and by own use during the daytime.

Anyway, the point is not to make a profit, but to make our own electricity, to at least feel a bit self-sufficient. So we need a method of storing our nice power until we need it, e.g. to charge an electric car or to heat water.

There are many ways to do this; batteries seemed to me to be the obvious solution but they are extremely expensive, and some of them are fire-risks. Then the solar man suggested compressed air, although this is apparently noisy. Then there's turning water into hydrogen and back again - which sounds like a fire risk to me.

In this erudite circle there is certainly someone who can point me in the right direction; I'm fine with new technology but it has to be

practical
economical
maintenance-friendly

edit: Hmm, environmental impact. I gather our solar panels will now generate more power in their official 20-year lifespan than were used in their manufacture. But this is a different question. But really it's about self-sufficiency - a suspicion that if Germany gets any greener they will start rationing electricity (this has been mentioned, in passing, by the Greens). Also, turning off the nuclear power stations and iffy gas deliverers may well mean the power just goes off on dark nights with no wind.


texts: Thin set or spackle to fill home before tiling

texts: I am preparing a drywall wall for a tile backslash in a kitchen.  There is a hole that needs to be fixed behind the faucet.  Is it better to use spackle or thin set, since it would be in a place where there could potentially be a risk of water getting behind the tile at some point.


texts: Need help replacing bulb in fancy light fixture

texts: How do I remove/open this Light fixture to replace the bulb?


texts: Can I put the sub-panel for my attached garage in the attic?

texts: I want to install a 30A outlet in my garage for my 240v compressor along with a 20A outlet for other tools. I will run a 6/3 w/g NM from a 50A dual pole breaker at the main panel at the other end of the house through the attic. I’d like to mount the 60A sub-panel with 30A dual pole and 20A single pole breakers in the attic space above the garage (accessible through a drop-down door with ladder) to avoid having to mount it on the hollow block wall of the garage. From there I will run my smaller NM cables through the attic space above the garage and then drop 3/4” conduit through the ceiling along the wall to the outlets. My question: is there any reason other than a slight inconvenience in accessibility that I shouldn’t put the sub-panel in the attic?


texts: Where can I purchase a replacement wattage limiter?

texts: I have a Hunter ceiling fan with a light kit.  This does not come with a remote control.  After years of service and correct operation the fan still works fine but the lights stopped working.  I checked the pull switch and it is fine. After researching on line was able to isolate the problem.  The Hunter Part # 98480-02 Wattage limiter controller is bad.  Does anyone know where a replacement can be purchased.


texts: Are dual-function AFCI/GFCI breakers less effective than single-purpose GFCI breakers?

texts:
I have a house with old wires (cloth) that lack ground. I've been advised that we can install GFCI breakers on those circuits to help protect against the lack of ground. But since the wires are cloth, I'm also thinking that AFCI protection would be nice, so I am considering having our electrician put in all dual-function (a.k.a. DFCI) breakers. However, I saw a comment that made me worry the dual function breakers may be less effective:

some people say the combo's don't work quite as well as single purpose GFCI

Is that true? What does "less effective" even mean--longer time before it trips or that it may not trip at all?


texts:
First off I would just like to thank anyone who takes the time to read and help in any way. I need to replace a old blower motor which is now obsolete. That part number is (1150519). I need to replace the capacitor as well (1150060). I am not sure what motor/capacitor I need that is compatible with what I have.
My motor has white wire (common) black wire (high speed) red wire (low speed) two brown wires (to capacitor) and green wire (ground). I am pretty sure it turns counterclockwise. The only thing I have found so far is motor 92L22 but nothing on capacitor. Or do I need capacitor on new motor?
Again thanks for taking the time to help!


texts: Red wire in ceiling (hot) is not sending power to ceiling fan

texts:
So I've been installing a ceiling fan and I'm encountering an issue I didn't come across in 2 other rooms, same fan model etc. At the ceiling box I've got Ground, Neutral, Red, and Black. In the other rooms I've been able to wire the light to the switch and the fan motor/remote to constant power no problem to keep them separate. I want to be able to run the fan without the light at night. Here, while I am able to get the light working off the switch (black wire), I am unable to get the fan running off the constant (red wire.) When I put my multimeter to the switched wire in the ceiling (black), I get 120V when the switch is on. Red wire has .5V with the switch off and 15V with it on (?) I looked in the box behind the switch and I've got a loose red wire in there capped off. Is that my problem? Seems like maybe it was wired for a fan but not connected? How could I make this work? Do I need to wire nut the red to another wire in the switch? Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: Ok, so I flipped the breaker labeled for the bedroom lights which also includes the hallway light (share walls with the dining room) and THAT is now killing the switch and the fan successfully. Weird. Is this what's called a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC)? Should I make sure to also flip the breaker called Dining Room since that was successfully shutting off the power to the light in the fan (but not the motor)? Bottomline, I don't mind adding a note on the breaker box to remind myself or whoever, but is is safe? Thanks.

[!][]1]2


texts: The TV is 55 inches, and weighs about 40 pounds. The wall mount I plan on using will be able to reach 2 studs. Will this be enough to support the TV? Does it make a difference if the wall is a load bearing wall or not?


texts: Samsung induction stove not detecting cookware

texts:
Samsung Chef Collection stovetop stopped detecting cookware, left two burners only. The two burners on the right are working fine. A repair guy did not mince words: take it to the dump. He said he sees these stoves failing all the time and there is very little that can be done in the way of diagnostics, short of checking for blown fuses and visually checking if something looks obviously wrong. Swapping out parts one by one can be a very expensive proposition: the cost of the part, the wait time, the time to disassemble and re-assemble the stove (there is no way to find out if it works without fully assembling it).

The fact that two burners failed at the same time provides important troubleshooting information. It is clearly not something with the individual burners - it has to be some common component shared by the left two burners.

I decided to try my luck and ordered the left inverter board. It was not cheap, around 300$ with shipping and tax. I swapped the board and... nothing.

Any ideas or suggestions what to try next? I do have a high quality tester.


texts: Does a whole garage door need to be replaced if the middle bracket broke?

texts:
I have an aluminum garage door that looks in great shape; the only problem is one of the brackets in the middle of the garage door broke. I thought someone would be able to weld it back together, but a garage door company said the whole door needs to be replaced.

Is that true? Can't a bracket on an aluminum garage door bracket be fixed without replacing the whole garage door along with permits?


texts: CertainTeed DiamondBack- Waterproofing needed for tile?

texts:
I picked up some DiamondBack CBU to tile a shower enclosure, as it seems like it would be a lot easier to work with than Hardibacker (I can't cut the stuff without making a huge dusty mess, so if you have hints, I'll take them) and also matches up to the 1/2" green board that abuts it. When I look at the installation instructions, they don't have a waterproof plastic sheet (say, 6 mil plastic) nor a waterproof coating (such as RedGard) on the surface.

Incredulous, I called their customer service line to verify. While friendly, their customer service rep seemed to have as much knowledge of the product's ability as I did. He said that the outer layer doesn't require it and that I need to butt the panels tightly against one another, seal changes of plane (corners, etc) with a flexible sealant and use an ANSI (i forget the number) rated thinset.

Has anyone used this product? Has anyone used this product without adding a waterproof layer? I am a bit nervous and, with the slicker coated surface on the DiamondBack am afraid that, if I defy the instructions and waterproof that I'd have issues with it and, ultimately, the tile's adhesion to the board.


texts: Installing pull-up bars. Will this design hold?

texts:
I am installing a series of pull-up bars all the way down my hallway, kind of like really spaced out monkey bars, and would like some advice on my proposed design, b/c I have zero experience with construction, and I want to make sure this is safe.

These bars will need to hold the forces of an 82kg (180lb) person swinging on them and between them.

So far, I have attached a 2x6 Spruce-pine-fir (SPF) board to each side of the hallway, using long deck screws driven into the studs:

This seems to hold really well and supports my weight comfortably.

Next I need to figure out how to attach these flanges to the wood:

Those are 0.25" holes in the base of that flange. These flanges will be holding the steel tubes that will span the width of the hallway.

I guess the most obvious idea is to use lag screws to attach the flanges into the the wood, so something like this:
https://www.lowes.ca/screws/classic-railing-brown-lag-screws-2-12-in-24-count_g2437448.html

Or like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-2-in-Galvanized-Lag-Screw-25-Pack-803720/204282531

My concern is that I cannot find definitive info about the shearing force the lag screws can withstand when used with the 2x6 SPF lumber, and I am concerned that there's only 1-3/8" of wood that will be holding the screws. There'll be 4 screws per side, but this still seems a little sketchy to me, considering that I plan to swing on these bars.

My best idea so far is to use 1 long lag screw, and 3 short ones per flange. The long one goes into the stud in the top hole, so the existing deck screw above it shouldn't interfere with the strength of the lag screw (which is likely not true for the bottom hole, where the deck screw would be right under the lag screw, right?).

My secondary idea is to use small 2x6 sections to double-up the wood where the bars attach, thus giving the lag screws 2-3/4" of wood to bite into, but I'm not sure whether this is necessary?

What do you think? Will this hold? Any advice would be much appreciated!


texts: How do I reduce noise from the bolt hitting the strike plate on a door with an automatic closer?

texts:
In our office, the door at the entrance has a k2 door closer. Our problem is that when the door closes, it makes a very loud clicking noise. I believe this is the result of the latch bolt hitting the strike plate, which is what causes the noise. It has nothing to do with latch or swing speed, since the screws in the door closer body are turned fully clockwise. The sound seems to be caused by the metal.

Is there anything we can do to mitigate this noise?


texts:
I have a 2 car garage about 20 by 20 in size. Planning to build an attic storage/bonus room above it.The space above garage measures about 18 by 20 with minimum hight of 6 feet, and an access can be build from 2nd floor hallway/bedroom.
Should I worry if the foundation of the garage is strong enough for the attic, before reinforce the attic floor?

Thanks so much in advance for your answer.


texts: My heater only turns on if the temperature inside the home is 68 degrees or above. If the temperature inside the home is below 68 degrees, I can hear the thermostat click when I turn on the heater but I get no hot air until inside temperature is above 68 degrees. Once the inside temperature reaches 68 degrees due to daylight or whatever, then the heater turns on and works without a problem and maintains whatever temperature I set as long as it's above 68 degrees. What could possibly be the issue?


texts: Paint bubbling and peeling on a steel door

texts: I have a steel front door, behind a solid glass storm door. It gets so hot that paint bubbles and peels. Any suggestions?


texts: Does this insulation need to be replaced? Does it contain asbestos?

texts:
This is a 60y old house but I am not sure when the bathroom that is downstairs was built
this is in the ceiling and I would like to know what sort of insulation to use

the bath tub that I just removed seems to be manufactured in 92

The exterior side of the wall has the insulation shown in the third picture


texts: How deep should I set a 14' steel pole in concrete that will have a wood roof attached. I am building a carport that is 36' long by 12' wide by 14' tall. There will be 8 poles.


texts: Why does light switch not use ground wires inside of box?

texts:
I was replacing some toggle type light switches to rocker type and ran into something I thought was unusual. There were 3 switches boxes (2 boxes had 1 switch, and the other had 2 switches) I was replacing where in all scenarios, all of the ground wires indeed came through and into the box, but were just bundled together and not used. There was no individual pigtail coming off the bundled crimp with a ground to attach to the switches. One of the single pole switch boxes had a single ground (no bundle) that came through into the box and was tucked to the back of the box. That was the most confusing because how simple was it just to connect to the ground screw on the light switch. However the 2 other boxes had a bundle come through and just pushed to the back. The boxes are plastic and not metal so not a natural ground; the house was built in '88 so looked at that too.

Should those bundled ground wires in the back have an individual copper pigtail coming off to connect to each switch? Why would the original installer not use the ground wires, and do I need to get this fixed by an electrician or myself to run the ground bundle all the way to the new switch ground screws?


texts: Messed up shed concrete pier foundation - wrong spacing. Does my plan to fix this look realistic?

texts:
Hmm. So here's the situation. I've ordered a 10x16 shed and decided to build concrete piers foundation. Iv'e used shed manufacturer instructions but messed up the piers positioning.
As you can see I've positioned piers 2 feet away from the shed edge as opposed to 1 ft... (facepalm)

So in order to fix this I plan to use sistered 2x8s instead of 6x6 as suggested by the construction plan. Shed floor has five 4x4 runners which I think will help to distribute the weight (see schematic here) and offset the fact that piers are further from the edge.

Do u guys think this will work?


texts: Drain pipe under sink separated, how to fix?

texts:
What would be the best way of reattaching this pipe?

Found some of this product in the tool cabinet, would it be appropriate to use here?


texts: Multiple port in-line push-in connector?

texts:
I've been working in some very tight light fixtures lately, and it was basically impossible to get the wires with wire nuts tucked into the fixture. So I came across multi-port push-in connectors, like this:

|-
|-
|-

and in-line butt splice connectors, like this:

-|-

Both of these really helped in these tight fixtures. However, what would REALLY be helpful is a combination of those, where the 3 ports were not all facing the same direction. Particularly, something like:

-|-
 |-

I don't see why that wouldn't be a thing, but I can't seem to find anything like that. Have you ever seen something like this? (even like a 4-port one configured like:

-|-
-|-

would do the trick!


texts: Help to remove handles from leaky bathroom faucet

texts: I have a leaky bathroom faucet. There are no screws on the sides of the handle or escutcheon. I cannot figure out how to pry off the top without causing some damage. Maybe someone can look at the picture I've attached and make a suggestion on how best I can fix this thing?


texts:
I found this sprinkler head in the ceiling of my new place with a cover cap missing - later I found the cap in a drawer.

How would I go about replacing this? Is there a way to attach the original cap? Do I need to get a professional to take a look? I'm afraid of accidentally setting the sprinkler off.


texts: Do I need to insulate both hoses on a portable AC?

texts:
Dual hose AC portable systems have an exhaust and intake hose. The exhaust hose gets tremendously hot, and obviously it helps if it is insulated.

What about the intake hose, is it worth the cost to have that insulated?


texts: Why do Instructions to Leviton nylon plugs and connectors say “DO NOT use with solid wire”?

texts: I bought Leviton “black and white professional” 20 amp 125V nylon connector(#5369 NEMA 5-20R) and plug(#5366 NEMA 5-20P)for my dishwasher. Both the dishwasher powerline from the panel box and the dishwasher line have solid 12 AWG wire (20 amp). But the instructions to both the connector and the plug both emphatically say “DO NOT use with solid wire”. Why is this? Is it dangerous?


texts:
My basement perimeter tile drains into my sump pump pit and floods my basement. I struggle to pump water out on my small property. there is a field tile on my property however it has been clogged for years. I don't know who to call.

Tiles coming into pit are from the perimeter of my basement walls (I guess). Sump pump used to discharge to a field tile which runs across my property. We know this to be clogged. Now I discharge on top of the ground, as far from the house as I can. In dry summer months I discharge into my septic system.


texts: Would my fridge wear or be damaged when I unplug it for a week?

texts:
My fridge is fairly 3 years old (Here is the model of my fridge) and I am usually going to be at work area for the week and do not get home until Friday night. I do not put much food in my fridge, only enough to get me through the weekend.

I am hesitant of unplugging the fridge when I leave the house every week then plugging it back when I get home. What are the pros and cons of doing this, besides conserving energy? Would this do harm to my fridge overtime?


texts: What size wire do I need for my 50A, 350' well circuit?

texts: I am adding a meter to my home that will be monitoring my well which is approximately 350’ from my home.  I will be running the wire underground and it is only supplying 50 amps.  No other items on system.  What size wire do I need to install?


texts: Is krypton gas more energy-efficient that low-e argon?

texts:
This company I am about to buy windows from is giving me triple-pane windows with krypton gas for the same price as double-pane with low-e argon.  The salesperson brought some window samples to my house last week to show how krypton gas stops the heat from a heat lamp from passing through.  He held the heat lamp to the regular sample and I felt the heat instantly when I put my hand under the sample.  He switched to the krypton sample and I felt absolutely no heat at all.

I want to go for the triple-pane, but the president of my condo's association is pushing Pella windows really hard.  He argues that krypton gas might have kept me from feeling the heat from the lamp for a few minutes, but, eventually, the heat would have gotten through just the same.

His argument boils down to krypton not being all that it's sold to be, that's it's just a gimmick.  I'd like to hear other people's answers on this.


texts: Water turned off but toilet cistern still filling ready for next flush

texts: Can hear rushing water through pipes & my bill has gone up. Have turned off my main water tap by my front door which has stopped water to taps but the toilet is still able to flush & refill as normal?


texts: How can I add a piece of timber to my metal shed wall without creating a leak?

texts:
I have a garden shed with steel (powder coated) walls. I'd like to attach a piece of timber to the inside of the wall. I'll use the timber to attach hooks for hanging tools.

I don't want the holes I put in the wall to create a leak, and I don't know the best technique to use to prevent it leaking. The shed doesn't have eaves.

2 or 3 bolts through the timber and the shed wall would probably be sufficient when it comes to strength. Would some silicone sealant around the bolts stay watertight for a few years? Is there a better way of preventing water leaking through the bolt holes, or a better way of securing the timber?

In case it matters, temperatures in my location range from -5 to 35 C


texts:
I've gone through a few dozen different threads, videos and whatnots, and can't seem to figure out how to wire up my new 3-way switch.

Let's call the top of the steps Switch A and bottom Switch B.

Switch A has Five wires coming into it. Black and White from a 14/2. The WHITE wire has 122v on it. Next wire is a 14/3 with red, white, black (and ground). NONE of the other wires in this box have electricity. I tested each one by connecting meter from wire to ground.

At Switch A, the WHITE that's hot is connected to the BLACK of the 14/3. The remaining wires are all connected to the terminals on the existing switch.

Switch B - has three wires coming in on a 14/3 red, white, black (and ground). NOTHING has electricity on it.

Pimary switch: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Z-Wave-Plus-In-Wall-1000W-Smart-Dimmer-White-Lt-Almond-14299/303404502

Manual for Primary Switch: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/71/718869d3-e92c-456b-9c97-cbf8018d3850.pdf

Add-on switch: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Home-Automation-120-VAC-3-Way-Auxiliary-Add-On-Switch-Almond-White-Paddles-12723/205798442

Manual for Add-on switch: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/33/334dd232-b90b-4001-93de-5a489bda7e9d.pdf

I can't seem to figure out how to connect the Primary and add-on switches. ... any guidance would be appreciated.


texts: What is the proper way to prevent water infiltration between exterior stairs and wall

texts:
My house has a full flight of poured concrete stairs (covered with decorative stone) that runs parallel to (and butts up against) an exterior wall.

The interior wall had water stains at the basebord, some distortion in the laminate floor near the  baseboard and the distinct odor of damp, decaying wood.

I pulled the baseboard off and cut away the drywall 12 inches up for the entire length of the wall.  The sill plate is damp and one stud at the bottom of the stairway shows signs of rot or termite damage.  The insulation was damp at the ends but not at the 12 inch mark.

Currently, there is nothing between the poured concrete for the stairway and the studs.  No plywood sheathing, no plastic, nothing.  It looks like at some point in the past there was something there.  Two of the studs have scraps of plastic sheet between them and the sill plate.  I cannot tell if the plastic sheet was on the interior or exterior side of the studs.  On the exterior side of the studs near the top end of the stairs there is plywood sheathing about 12 inches wide, but broken off in a ragged edge.  It is waterlogged.

My best guess is that there was/is a leak between the stairs and wall near the upper end of the stairs.  The water is flowing down the concrete and then running along the sill plate toward the corner of the wall.  At some point in the past the interior wall was removed and the plastic sheeting and plywood sheathing were ripped out and then the interior wall was restored.  Obviously, this is not the right solution.

My question is two-fold:

If this were new construction, how would one construct a stairway  parallel to an exterior wall.
How can the wall as currently constructed be repaired such that water infiltration cannot occur in the future.


texts: Determining which 3 way switch is wired wrong

texts:
I have two 3 way switches controlling one light.  Sometimes when the light is on neither switch will turn off the light but one of the switches will turn light off if switch is placed half way between on and off.    Would this be the switch that is wired wrong or do I have to take off the plates and look at wiring of both ?

In both pics the left most switch are the problem ones.  Strange thing is they both looked wired correct.  It appears the travelers red and black are both on bottom.


texts: How can I safely extend an existing outlet through an empty space?

texts:
I have an electrical outlet in the back of a cubby hole over my fireplace as it seemed built for televisions of the CRT variety.

My question is, I plan to just wall off that cubby as to be able to hang a flat screen television on said wall. In doing so, how do I move the electrical outlet forward, from its current position, to the new wall?


texts: What can I put over drywall on a garage firewall?

texts:
I want to add a wall covering on top of my 5/8" type-x drywall in my attached garage in Minnesota.  What limitations do I have other than not to use flammable/vinyl/plastic material?

What materials would anyone recommend?


texts: How to repair broken suspended cement slab

texts:
The very corner of the cement slab, which forms the floor of my basement, broke off.  There was nothing supporting it underneath.  the portion that broke off forms a triangle 11" x 10" x 14" x 3-6" thick.  The chunk was bordering the concrete footings.  The dirt in the hole is soft and loose.  At least 6 sqft at that corner of the slab is suspended without support.  I'm including a couple photos up underneath the slab.  I suspect that there is erosion or settlement caused by water.  What would be the easiest way to prevent further damage to the structure for as long as possible?  My idea is to dig out as much dirt as possible and then pack the hole with rocks.  At what point would excavating the loose soil undermine the support of the footings and slab?  Thanks for any ideas or insights you are able to provide.

Here is video for context:  https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/flipt-temporary-storage/foundation_hole.mp4


texts: Are these scratches on an induction plate cleanable?

texts:
I have an induction plate that works great for a few years now. It is surprisingly clean, all kind of burned food is easy to remove. It has, however, a few very small scratches and I would like to understand whether they are "cleanable", or whether this is a permanent change in the plate.
I would like to make it clear that this is really an aesthetic question - they are tiny and do not impact the functioning of the plate in any way. They are also real scratches, not fissures because something has fallen on the plate and broke it.
I understand that a scratch itself is not something that can be "cleaned" - it is more the nature of their color I want to understand (whether they can be turned into "transparent scratches" or whether there is something inside them I can clean.
The overall view of the plate:

I tried my best to take macro photos of the scratches to show their nature:

I tried the usual "products to clean indiction plates" and insisted on the scratches but besides making the rest of the plate shiny clean this did not help with the scratches.


texts: Why won't my washer spin even though it still agitates?

texts:
I have a Kenmore 80 series washer and it recently stopped spinning and agitating and I found out it was the coupler. So I changed that and it start to work again, normally. After a week or two it stopped spinning during spin cycle, but it still agitates. I did some research and tests and this is what I came up with over the past two days:

The coupler is fine
The pump isn't clogged. It spins fine and drains fine.
The lid switch works perfectly
While the agitator is spinning, I can stop it by holding it with my hand from making a rotation forward or backwards. I couldn't do that before
I can spin the tub with my hands with about 5-10lbs of resistance.
The clutch under the tub doesn't spin during spin cycle.
When I change speed settings(medium to low or to high) for the agitator, the speed doesn't change.

From doing searching I think that it could possibly be the Gearcase/Transmission, the Tub Hub, or the Belt, if it has one and that is as much as I know.

Please help me figure this problem out. Its pretty annoying not having a working washer :/


texts: How can I stop water from coming out of the shower head even when the diverter valve is shut on the tub faucet spout?

texts: We just had the tub faucet with diverter valve spout replaced.  It is the two valve wall mounted type faucet.  Now when you open either or both faucet valves water comes out of the shower no matter whether the diverter is up or down on the spout. I pulled off the spout with diverter and put another brand new one on and the same thing happens.  What can cause this and how can I fix it?


texts: What are the potential dangers of not removing the tabs on a split receptacle?

texts: If I feed a duplex receptacle from two separate branch circuits, I'm supposed to remove the jumper tabs between the receptacles. But what would happen if I didn't remove the tabs?


texts: Gas line tape overlap to cover all threads?

texts: I am using gas line tape and it says to make a minimum of 4 wraps. The tape is 1/2" wide but the threads on the pipe are like 3/4" to 1" long. Is it correct to wrap only the section in the middle or should I cover all the threads by overlapping the tape and work my way from the end to the start of the threads, and then back again? I tried overlapping but maybe I did it wrong because I wound up with a fat area in the middle.


texts:
I am replacing an old light fixture. The junction box has no ground wire coming out of it. The instructions say that if this is the case to attach the ground wire from the light fixture to the green screw on the mounting plate.

Here is a picture of the old light where they have apparently done exactly that:

So how does this work? The ground has to lead back to the breaker box in order to work right? Is this mounting bracket connected to a wire leading to the breaker box?

Update:

Here is a pic of the inside of the box:

It does actually appear that the box has an attached ground wire leading out of it, so that's good news.


texts: Corrosion on copper pipe: Is this a concern?

texts:
I came across some corrosion on a copper hot water line in our house:

Is this a potential early warning sign of impending pipe failure?

I did some research online and came across multiple contradicting hear-say-comments ranging from "this is caused by left-over solder flux, it doesn't matter" all the way to "there likely is already a leak and it'll probably get worse quick!".

If this is an issue that warrants pipe replacement, do I need to cut off all of the corrosion (might be a bit difficult in the front pipe as it disappears through a beam) or is it enough to clean it off with some steel wool?


texts: Does the bare wire in an 8/2 cable connect to neutral or ground at my sub-panel?

texts:
I am running electric to a building on my property. i have a 30 amp double breaker at the house panel and have ran roughly 110 feet of 8/2 with a bare ground and installed a ground rod at the sub panel for the building.

I know black and white are my 2 hot wires and the #6 coming from ground rod goes to my grounding bar in the sub panel, but do I hook the ground wire from the #8 to the ground bar or common bar at the house panel and the sub panel?


texts: GE dishwasher (model: GSD03230Z01WW) does not drain

texts: My GE dishwasher won’t drain. Washer is washing, but doesn’t drain. Ending the washing cycle,  there’s not hum.


texts: Why is my circulator pump heating my house?

texts:
Our house had always had some latent heat coming through the vents even when they were turned off, which was causing the temperature to be pretty unbearable during the summer. One day, we heard something making a ton of noise in our garage, and we found the source was apparently a circulator pump, which we unplugged. After we did this, the heat from the vents disappeared, and it's been much cooler inside. However, the hot water no longer works with the pump off. Our landlord said he would replace the old pump, but we don't want the heat to come back. So my question:

Why is the circulator pump affecting the heating? From what I've read, it should just be pulling water out of the pipes, it's not clear to me why that would keep the heater hot all the time, even if it's heated by hot water.

Also, is there any way to have the circulator pump running but not heat the house at the same time? It sounds like the pump should save a lot of water, but we don't want to save water at the expense of the extra energy it's consuming and the heat it's putting out.


texts: How to remove a ceiling light when nut turns but doesn't unscrew and globe doesnt turn?

texts: Help! Trying to replace light bulbs. The nut turns but it doesnt unscrew off, tried w40 and nothing happens. Cant turn the glass globe due to the awkward shape of the light fixture.


texts: Figuring out electrical connections for THREE electric baseboard heaters with single pole thermostats

texts:
I recently purchased a home (triplex) and in the basement unit, which is a one bedroom apartment, there are three baseboard heaters (bedroom, washroom, and living room).

The issue is that the living room heater has recently stopped working.

The previous owner of the house did all of the wiring by himself for this basement unit and I am now trying to figure out how it was wired and to ultimately get the living room heater circuit working again.

Below are pictures of the physical layout of the apartment as well as the wiring inside the electrical box for the living room thermostat.

Here are some of the details and findings during my troubleshooting:

I noticed that there are three double-pole circuit breakers associated with the heaters and they are all connected the same way (ie: red/black wires line up in the same physical orientation).
All circuit breakers measure 120V at each connection.
I unscrewed the thermostats for all three heaters and measured 240V, 240V, and 120V respectively for the bedroom, bathroom, and living room (non functional) between the thermostat (single pole) connections.
I noticed that all thermostats are connected to the red 12/2 wires. From what I've read and seen online, the standard is to connect to the black wires instead. So the wiring seems to be reversed (colour-wise), but at least it's this way for all of them so it should be OK to keep as is).
I removed the living room heater from the circuit and disconnected the living room thermostat to leave bundles of wires as shown in the second picture.
I measured 120V at the exposed living room heater wires. I re-measured the same 120V between the single red wire and bundle of black wires at the electrical box for the living room thermostat.

At this stage, because of too much destructive analysis, I am planning to install a brand new 240V heater. My question is how do I handle the connections inside the electrical box for the living room thermostat (refer to the picture)? Do I connect all the red wires together to obtain 240V? Or is there another underlying problem here?

Thanks!

Vlad


texts: Is MoCA better for home network if coax cable is all over the house already? Or just rewire whole house with ethernet?

texts: House is full of coax cable.  Want to direct wire some devices with a switchbox and still have wifi.  Use moca and current wire or future proof like CAT7?


texts: What is this sleeve in this toilet tank?

texts:
There is a clear plastic sleeve around the flush mechanism in this toilet. I just replaced the flapper and the sleeve seems to interfere with the flapper, making it close too soon.
Why is the sleeve there? (new to me) Thanks.


texts: Why do I have 4 brown (live wires) in my light switch - and no blue (neutral)

texts:
The dimmer switch in our bedroom has stopped working properly, so I bought a new simple 1 way switch.
I  opened the unit to find 4 brown wires 3 of them wired in to L1 port and 1 in to the C port. Also the earth wire, but no blue neutral. There looks like some sort of loop in the background but I'm a little confused.
Does anyone know what is going on?


texts: Replacing the power button on washing machine

texts: How do you replace the power button on LG WT-H800 washer?


texts:
We are having problems with our toilets. There are no air bubbles in the tank, but they bubble and gurgle after they are flushed. We have already tried to snake it and treat it with RID-X, but it has not helped.

Our house was built in 1993, and we have been living here since 2005. We have never had the septic tank pumped. In one of the bathrooms, the toilet is not sealed well. Could that be the problem, or is there a problem with the septic system?


texts: Mini-split for cooling only (not heat) -- do I need the outdoor part?

texts:
This is a very ignorant question, I know, but after reading several mini-split product descriptions I'm still confused.

I already have an adequate heating system.

I need air conditioning and central air is too expensive. Unfortunately my window unit is so loud I can't hear my computer, phone, or knocks on my door. So, I'm thinking that a mini-split sounds like the best solution (hopefully these things are quiet, right?).

However, I'm unclear on if I need the piece that goes outside. My understanding is that that's the "heat pump". Intuitively it seems like I would have to have a piece that goes outside, but the name throws me off because I don't need heat and if I don't have to have it then I don't want it because I need to minimize cost.

I'm not sure if the refrigerant is in that part or not?...


texts:
This is how my sink currently looks like. There's this metal cap thing on the right that has slits. It is hooked up to the dishwasher (a brand new Bosch European style one). I have never seen anything come out of it. What is it called? What does it do?

I am doing a complete kitchen remodel and I am wondering whether the new kitchen needs that exhaust thingy. I've been looking at photos of up-to-date kitchens online and I haven't noticed any of them have this contraption. Does that mean this thingy is some outdated technology that I don't need it for my kitchen remodel?


texts: How can I turn on my outdoor water fountain?

texts:
I have just bought a new house, and want to activate the pump for the water fountain.
The pump seems to run an insulated electrical line back to the house, but I am not able to find any indoor switches to turn it on.
I am not very knowledgeable about how fountain works. I have also thought about the possibility that fountains don't require switches and I just needed to replace the old pump.
The previous owner left it in a neglected state, and doesn't want to answer any questions.
Any input/suggestion is appreciated!

Thanks guys. I did look around the house and was not able to find any outdoor outlet. However there is this indoor switch in the basement. Previous attempt does not activate the pump, but this could be due to the pump itself being defective as per blacksmith37's comment.
I will try to detach the pump from the wire, turn on the indoor switch again, then measure the wire's voltage using a multimeter. If there is a current, then I know for sure that the pump is the issue and get a new one.
Will provide an update once I get to it.


texts: Why would Super Glue take an hour to harden?

texts:
I'm used super glue beginning to cure within a minute. I have a batch of tiny single-purpose Super Glue Gel tubes from 3M of unknown age. I want to use them to fix tiny parts to a circuit board. So the blob is exposed to a lot of air as opposed to disappearing between two mated parts. But after an hour it was still unset, and I could wipe most of it off.

Why? Too old? Bad batch? Too big a sample? Wait longer?  Humidity too low?

Relevant portion of instructions: "Hold until set."

(Manually migrated from lifehacks.)


texts:
I have just finished renovations that included excavating a fair amount of dirt from our back yard. This has left me with an area about 5m x 10m that I need to fill with dirt to the depth of about 20~30cm. The ground is now a very hard clay in some areas, mud stone in others.

The plan is to lay some ag pipe connected to the storm water system on the low side then lay a base on top of that, then put top soil on top of that. Grass will then be planted.

What base should I use - sand, gravel,....?


texts: Are the plastic covers where the plug is inserted remove able so a different color one can be used?

texts: I need to know if I can replace the plug cover not the plate, to change the color without having to remove the entire box?


texts: How should I remove tiles and backer board from my bathroom?

texts: I have a pink tiled bathroom and want to remove them.  The tiles come up fairly easy but some do not and the backer board is intact mostly. What is the best way to remove the tiles and backer board if I have to?  This is around a jetted tub and the tile job was not done by a professional.


texts: If I use foam insulation on the outside (2") and in the 2 x 6 walls (from 4 - 5"), do I need to fill in the leftover space on the inside with fiberglass or Roxul, or just put the vapor barrier over it leaving  1 - 1 1/2" air space?


texts:
QUESTION

If a tenant wanted wall to wall carpeting and the existing floor is tile, is it possible to simply lay the padding and carpet over the tile, and expect the ability to revert back to the tile by simply removing the carpeting?

TILE PHOTOS

IDK what category of tile this falls into (not ceramic):


texts: Replaced GFCI no power in line wire but power in load wire

texts:
We overloaded our back lanai outlet (used 20amp doggy hair dryer on a 15amp breaker oops prior house handled it so didn't think to check) and melted the GFCI outlet in the garage that protects the circuit.   Changed out the GFCI outlet (Leviton 20a dual pole just like the old one), stripped the melted line wire back well, get a green light so load and line are correct (switched them just to make sure and got a red light) and the load wire has power but the line wire does not.   Confused that there is no power in the line wire that feeds the outlet but there is in the load that feeds the circuit.  Replaced the jumper section in the line wire (with 10g stranded just to see if the joint was bad) and still no power to the line wire, load has power still.  Tested the breakers and all show power but the one that powers this one was a tad bit weaker.  Not sure if breaker related now or the outlet and I could spend all weekend getting nothing done if there is something deeper in the circuit wrong.  Checked other outlets on the circuit and they seem to be ok, no burnt wire or melted outlet, the screws are a bit rusty from being outside outlets but wire looks ok.  No idea where to go from here.  Really confused that the line wire has no power but the load does.  Any thoughts?
Nevermind, figured it out.  Guess you have to post for the answer to come to mind.  I kept questioning why the GFCI would not reset and hubby kept demanding he got the load and line correct - the same way it came off.  I dug the old outlet out of the garbage and said the load connector is melted not line.  The wires are backwards.  Blah blah I did it right....a lot of eye rolls and huffing later...it was backwards.  Working fine now.


texts: Are alternative roofing types, such as rubber roll, usable for a typical residential sloped roof?

texts:
I'm wondering specifically, if rubber-roll roofing, such as this can be used on a sloped roof.

Or maybe if there is something akin to the stretch-and-seal tape but in large sheets that would be weather resistant and suitable for roofing applications. That way the seams would be self-sealing.

Essentially I'm wondering about some sort of rubber or silicon roofing that ultimately will turn itself into one single coating, as opposed to typical shingles which have a million seams in them. Can you tar a sloped roof?