texts: How can I find how insects are getting into my house?

texts:
I have a problem with insects getting into my house which is strange because I have a modern, well-made house with air-tight construction and high-quality insulating windows.
Nevertheless one type of bug I consistently find in the house are leaf-footed bugs. I find them in three rooms: the master bath, one of the guest baths and the study. The study is on the opposite side of the house from the master bath.
I know that these bugs can flatten themselves and fit into narrow spaces, but the windows seem absolutely tight to me and I cannot understand how they are getting in through the windows, if that is where they are coming. How can I figure out their point of entry?


texts: How to clear an overgrown flower bed and prep for grass

texts:
I bought my house about two years ago, and some of the flower beds that the original owner had put in the garden are now completely overgrown with weeds.  I would like to remove the weeds and the flower beds entirely, and replace them with grass.

What's the best/most logical order of operations?  Should I dig out the weeds and plant grass seed?  What other steps would be required?  Should I go with sod to prevent the weeds from growing back over the grass?  If I use weed killer (like Roundup), will that prevent the grass from growing in the future?


texts: Woodford faucet water leaking out of little holes near hose

texts:
I have a Woodford model 25 exterior faucet bib "freeze less"
When I turn it on, it appears water is gushing out of some holes near where the hose connects, and not much pressure is going to the hose.
What are those holes, suggestions for fixing it?


texts: Pre - Flared copper pipes for HVAC Unit? Advantages / Disadvantages?

texts:
I bought several HVAC to be installed as heating / cooling in a house I own. The most difficult part seems to be the flaring connection of the copper pipe tubing. Now I discovered that you can buy "pre-flared" copper piping. Does anyone have experience using these? (For example available here: (https://www.saturnsales.co.uk/Flared-Copper-Pipes-1/4-1/2.html).
Advantages:
-No need to buy tools
-Save time
-The most difficult installation part can be ommited
-If retailer can be trusted - high quality
Disadvantages
-Higher price?
-Bad quality?


texts: How can I have a ceiling light and separate fan on the same switch?

texts:
I have two ceiling lights in the bedroom on the same switch. I replaced one with a fan with no light. Now I can not turn the fan on without the light coming on.

How can I remedy this?


texts: How to wire and hang chandelier over table

texts: I removed the electrical cap from ceiling, expecting to find capped, exposed wires like my other lights. However, I found 3 wires, 2 of them (white and orange) are not exposed and basically just run in one side of the box and out the other. What do I need to do to install a chandelier here? Thanks!


texts: minor hairline crack on the base of a toilet, should I repair / replace?

texts: It was my first time removing a toilet, and when I put it back, I fastened the bolt a little too tight and heard a slight crack. I'm wondering if this is something that needs immediate attention, or if it may be fine over the long run? Nothing is leaking at this point.


texts: My upstairs toilet starts running when I turn the tub on or the washing machine on, which is located downstairs


texts: Is there a required spacing between where high and low voltage lines attach to a house?

texts:
If both the high and low voltage lines are strung from the pole to the house, is there a minimum spacing required between where they anchor to the structure?

The AC lines enter through the weatherhead, and the CATV lines are attached to the house. Does the CATV (or phone) lines have to be a minimum distance away from the weatherhead?


texts: If a breaker is GFCI/AFCI protected, does the NEC still require garage and exterior outlets to be GFCI protected?

texts: I am looking into upgrading the cabling from very old clothed 14-3 wire to 14-3 MC wire and the outlets in my garage and I understand they must be GFCI protected; however, can I simply replace the current breaker that is installed (which is not GFCI protected) to one that is protected and then install normal outlets in the garage or would the NEC code regulations require the outlets be protected regardless of what is upstream.


texts:
I have 800 sq ft of 1/2" locking solid stranded bamboo floor on its way and I'm trying to decide between floating and glue. I'm doing every room on my 1st floor (see attached pic), except for the powder room and adjacent W/D area. The flooring will run lengthwise from one side of the house to the other, if that makes sense. The longest length of a single span is 30' from "front" of dining room to "back" of living room, and 30' from the garage entry to the far (right) side of living room. We are installing over a wood subfloor (I assume OSB, but I have yet to check).

My concerns for floating are: hollow sound (I wanted solid h/w, nailed down), expansion issues (I don't want to use T molding), and dealing with 2 stair transitions (2 steps down from front entry into living room and the top edge of the basement stairs off the living room).

My concerns with glue down are: slow/messy install (and hearing about it from my wife, who wants to float), difficulty of removal (although I don't plan to), and I guess that's it.

I mainly want to know how concerned I should be regarding expansion issues if I do a floating install? Between the pinch point(s) heading into the kitchen and the somewhat long length of some of the spans, will I be able to get away with not having expansion joints (aka T molding)?? I'm in CO, where it's very dry but I have a house humidifier and plan on keeping the house around 40-50% RH. I consider myself quite competent at recreational home improvement and am not worried about the difficulties of executing either install...I just don't know best practices when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks!
Eric

Flooring:
https://www.flooranddecor.com/bamboo-wood/ecoforest-spanish-tiger-locking-solid-stranded-bamboo-100095611.html

Pic:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ve9Zb2hdjPslcIwZ2


texts: I have a large gap between my drywall and stairs - my question is, how much of a gap is acceptable for carpet to be applied on the stairs? I have about a 1-1x1/8 inch gap between the stair edge and the wall.


texts: Water on construction site. Damage to bricks?

texts:
I managed to sneak on the construction site of my future apartment and noticed a large puddle of water where my apartment is. The first row of bricks is already wet as you can see in the picture.

The next step in construction is to set the plaster on the walls which in my (inexperienced) opinion should be done after the bricks are fully dry.

Before I call the constructor site manager (on a Saturday) and ask him to clear up all the water, I want to know if this is a problem or not.


texts: Line voltage thermostat to shut off attic fan when outside temp is close to inside?

texts:
I have an attic fan with a thermostat, but with the high heat these past weeks, the outdoor temperature is often above the thermostat setting. Thus, I'm just replacing all the air in the attic with more hot air from outside the attic, at the same temperature. Its a huge waste of electricity.

I'd really like to find a thermostat that will compare the outside temp to the inside one, and shut off the fan only if the temperature inside is w/in 5 degrees or so of the outside temperature.

Does such a product exist?


texts: The gas heater pilot light has been out for a couple of days, and I believe there is a safety mechanism that detects this, and shuts off the gas. Now, when I move the slider to the pilot light position and press the valve button, I don't hear any gas coming out. Is there anything I need to do to


texts: How to make 3" concrete "legs" via reusable casting structure?

texts:
I have a design for a (set of) planter(s) I'm trying to make, and to make the design I have in mind, I need an 18" long 3" OD leg with a bit of rebar in them.  (let's say 100 of these bad boys in toto)

My initial thought was to cast it using PVC pipe and cut the pipe off, but pricing that off the top of my head has the cost of PVC to be about $60 in cost. I wanted to make the legs round, but would settle for square if that would be less cost prohibitive.

If I use PVC with endcaps, can I fabricate the legs in such a way that after "casting" I can neatly slide the legs out of the PVC pipes, thus allowing me to reuse the PVC repeatedly, or is there a better method for making over 100 18" 3" OD concrete (with rebar inserts) concrete columns than using PVC during the pour process?

If it matters, I was going to use quikrete crack-resistant concrete, but am totally open to ideas.


texts: Screwing into the grout line between glass tiles

texts:
I'm about to mount some shelving brackets onto a wall of 1" square glass tiles.  The entire wall is backed by 5/8" plywood, so I don't have to worry about hitting a stud.  With that kind of flexibility, I figure it's best to drive the screws into the grout lines instead of directly through the glass.  But I wonder...

Can I tap the screws straight into
the grout?
If I use a screw slightly
bigger than the grout lines (say 1/16" bigger), then
will I need to use a diamond drill
bit to bore out the holes first, so
that I don't risk cracking the
tiles?


texts: Light bulb sockets in ceiling fan damaged due to corrosion or arcing: Can clean to repair or must replace?

texts:
My ceiling fan has 3 light bulb sockets of roughly candelabra bulb size E12
For many years the lights have been unreliable even with new bulbs, frequently flickering on and off spontaneously or when I try to adjust and reset the bulb position.
The socket base contact and the bulb base both show signs of arcing or corrosion damage on some of them

Although others seem fine
Is this normal? Do I have the wrong bulb type or size? Are the sockets faulty? Can this be repaired both on the bulb and in the socket?
I'm using 40W 120V candelabra bulbs which are burning hot to the touch after just a minute or few of turning the light on.
Given the size of the socket / bulb base, there isn't much room to manoeuvre any tool or cleaning pad inside the socket, or do I need to replace the sockets? I'm not sure the lamp fixture is easy to disassemble, there is very little room to reach tools inside the metal housing.


texts: 100 Amp Sub-Panel in Detached Garage - Which Wire and Breakers for Code Compliance?

texts:
I am installing a 100 Amp sub panel in my detached garage for a 40 Amp car charger It is 70' away, 30' in the basement and then 40' outdoors. I am going to be running it using XHHW 1/0,1/0,1/0,2awg Aluminum wire in 1.5" PVC conduit.

My questions here are:

Per code, should I continue to run the XHHW from the PVC LB into the dry area, or should I splice it to a different cable type (if so which type? A 1/0 SER cable or NM-B?)in the LB? If I stay with the XHHW I will need to find the correct way to gather/hang the 4 wires wire inside, perhaps zip ties and then use SER supports to the joists above. If I splice it in the LB, how should this be done? Alu lugs that then get heat-shrink wrapped?

Does code dictate that I connect the Sub-panel through a 2-pole 100 Amp breaker or connect it directly to the 200 amp bar. If by breaker, which type? (GFI AFCI, normal) The sub-panel will have a main breaker either way.

What is the correct cable to connect to the exterior ground rod at the sub (less than 6 feet from panel)? Jacketed 4 AWG THHW copper or 4 AWG bare copper?


texts: Should I use Gorilla Glue or Crazy Glue for broken off handle of a ceramic mug?

texts:
I have a ceramic mug that a handle broke off of.

Between Gorilla Glue and Crazy glue, is there a difference and if so, which one is better?

My main criteria, in descending order of importance, are:

Non-toxicity long term. It's a mug people drink from.
Dishwasher safety long term (don't much care about microwave safety)
Physical durability of repair spot.
Requirement for extra-strong pressure during gluing (I don't have any fancy setup to squeeze the handle and cup together so it'd have to be my own two hands for a period between 1 and 5 minutes.
Requirement for perfect surface fit (there's a chance small flecks chipped off that are lost, so a small fraction of the broken off surface won't fit 100% perfectly together.


texts: Can I Make a 14-3 cable Using Two 14-2s?

texts: I have an existing overhead light with a single light switch in my hallway.  I would like to add a second light switch, but I don't have any 14-3 cable.  Can I simply run two sets of 14-2 cable, and essentially ignore two of the six wires, or is that a terrible idea for reasons I don't understand?


texts: Should I upgrade 2x6 attic floor joists by sistering some or all with 2x8s?

texts: Our 1938 cape cod has an attic that was converted to master suite (who knows how long ago), but we've been living there for over a year. We have since decided to gut the entire upstairs and put in a bathroom. In doing this we realized they built the "attic" on 2 x 6's. They are 16" OC apart. They go across the room probably 6 feet and then are screwed into another 2x6 to continue the rest of the width of the room. We don't want to say goodbye to our whole project. Would you recommend sistering the joists in the bathroom with 2 x 8s and leaving the rest with 2 x 6s? Or should we just had more 2x6 joists throughout the entire upstairs? Do both? We weren't planning on putting in new flooring, but if we have to we will. We won't have a tub in this bathroom. It will be a small, tiled shower, vanity, and toilet. Would love to hear any thoughts!


texts: Run mini-split heat pump heads at different temperatures

texts:
I vaguely remember the contractor who did maintenance on our ductless heat pumps two summers ago telling us not to set the thermostats of the two small heads that share an outdoor unit to different temperatures.
My memory is that there was something about the outdoor unit's inability to adjust the amount of work it's doing that made such an arrangement bad. I haven't been able to find any confirmation of this online though.
Am I making this up, or is it really good advice?
It's a two-story house, 900sqft.
(not counting the basement, where we occasionally use a radiant/oil space heater to keep the pipes thawed.)
The whole downstairs has a single double-wind heat-pump head with its own outdoor unit.
Upstairs the bedroom and office each have a head with piping out to their shared unit.
The reason I'm stressing about this now is because, with both of us working from home every day, we've been mostly-closing the door of the office so we can have that one room ~10F hotter than the rest of the house during the day. (The difference is large enough that we're not much worried we'll forget and leave it overnight.)


texts: Hallway light switch makes bedroom light brighter

texts:
When I turn my bedroom light switch on, the ceiling light turns on and seems fine. (Older North American home.)
When I then turn the switch for the hallway light on, the bedroom light becomes brighter.
Is the bedroom light somehow now getting 240v instead of 120v? And what would cause this?


texts: Should I remove nailed-down plywood before laying tile?

texts: In my bathroom there is vinyl on top of plywood, which is nailed to the sub floor. Should I pry up the plywood before putting down cement backer board for tile, or can I go over the plywood?


texts: Recommendations for portable/fold-up work surface?

texts: Does anyone have any recommendations for portable/fold-up work benches?  Growing up, my father had a Black and Decker Workmate, but from what I've been reading construction of those work tables is different now than it was 20 years ago.  Any recommendations/experiences with anything on the market right now?


texts:
A stair and landing was incorrectly built without a drip edge over 4 cantilevered joists coming out of the building. Over the years, water got in and rotted the joists to just past the point where they rest on the top plate of the wall. The top plate is rotted as well.
I have opened up the outside wall and cut back the rotted part of the joists, which went just past the top plate by an inch or so. The rest of the joists all seem fine.
I will have to rebuild the top plate and sister the joists. Since only the last few inches of the boards were affected, how far into the building do I need to sister the joists if I don't cantilever them again? I've seen some say 3 ft. is enough.
Should I sister both sides, or will one side do?
Also, do I need to glue them together? And, should I nail, screw, or bolt them? I have seen people advise to do each method.
If I do cantilever them again, I believe I have to go 3 ft. in for every ft. out, correct?


texts: How does a microwave door interlock work and is a DIY repair feasible?

texts:
Our microwave has developed a problem.  If the door isn't shut just so, the microwave thinks that it is open.  The door can be shut too lightly or too hard to exhibit the problem.  Recently it has began to pause right in the middle of cooking because it thinks the door has suddenly opened when it is still shut tightly.

From what I've read, the problem is likely with the "door interlock", a kind of sensor (or multiple sensors) that let the microwave know when the door is open or closed.

How do these sensors work, and is it possible to fix them yourself?  (I don't mind taking things apart.)

The specific microwave in question is a GE Profile PVM1790 over the range model.


texts: How to determine if electrical wires (romex) are undersized?

texts:
I've got a situation where I have mismatched wires to circuit breakers in my panel.  The breaker for my range is 40A and heat pump is 50A.  The electrician who discovered this (during an inspection) advised that they need to determine if the wires (30A) are undersized or if the breakers are oversized with considerable cost difference ($1250) if they have to run new wire.

I'd like to see if I can determine this myself in order to make an educated decision concerning the repair.  Is this as simple as looking at the specs of the heat pump/range to see what they should be pulling?  Or is it more involved.

How do i determine the amp rating of the wires themselves?  A quick Google search indicates it's not only based on Guage but also length but how do I determine the length without knowing where the wires run in the walls/ceilings?


texts: How to clean a ceiling fan with retractable fan blades?

texts: I bought a few ceiling fans with retractable fan blades. After using for a few months, there is a thick layer of dusk underneath the blades at the kink. I saw a video suggesting two persons to do the job. One to extend the blades and hold on to it while the other wiping it down with a damp cloth. Is there an easier way the get the job done with just one person only and without dismantling the fan?


texts: What is the proper method for repairing insulation nicks in wiring?

texts: I've run across this a few times in the house where I've been doing repairs. Normally, I would just tape it up and call it good. I mean, the tape itself is rated at 600 volts. Someone told me recently tape is not listed for repair, only marking. I am a bit confused about UL listings. Where do you find them? And how do you know what something is listed for? And finally, what is the proper way to repair cracks or cuts in wiring insulation?


texts: Code requirement for burying electrical PVC that runs along foundation

texts:
I need to run a circuit to the opposite side of the house from the service panel to an AC disconnect box. From my understanding this could be run with THWN wire in Schedule 80 PVC above ground if it's attached to the structure (A in attached pic). If instead it was buried, Schedule 40 could be used (for any sections not above ground) but it would have to be 18" deep.
Does that rule for burying 18" deep apply if the conduit is in contact with the structure? In this case the whole run would be up against the house, I would essentially just be wrapping it around the house. It would not cross through any area with traffic. I'd like to bury it enough to keep it from being visible (2-3 inches - B in attached pic) but it would seem that digging an 18" trench all around the foundation is overkill when the same path is allowed if it's simply moved up a few inches to be above ground.


texts: Can I run 12/2 wiring from a load center to a junction box, then use 14/2 for branch circuits?


texts: What to do first in a basement? Dricore then frame on top? Or frame and then lay dricore?

texts:
My thinking is to use blue wood with a plastic barrier underneath, and then lay dricore up to the finished walls.

However, the dricore instructions say that framing should be on top of the sub-floor.

This is a 2-y.o. basement with no signs of moisture yet.

Is the framing on top of dricore actually necessary?


texts: How do I stop patches from showing through paint?

texts:
I've painted a patched, bare plaster wall with a medium purple claypaint (Earthborn, "Jack Horner" color). The few places where I've patched the wall the paint is significantly darker, even after a mist coat, a full coat, and two further goes at spot painting those areas. It seems to be an absorption issue, as each time the patched areas took far, far longer to dry than the areas around them. How can I remedy this?

Below is a photo I took a bit after spot painting one of the patched areas with a roller. The new paint directly on the patched cracks is still quite wet, while the paint to each side is nearer to being dry.


texts: LG Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator not cooling

texts:
I have an LG Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator that is not cooling.

I plug the refrigerator in after sitting for a few hours. Inside the refrigerator the temperature controls read 4 for both Fridge and Freezer.  I hear a click and it sounds like the compressor is running. Maybe 4-5 minutes later I hear another click. I open the refrigerator doors and the temperature control is stuck on 6 and 7 on the freezer side.

On the back of the fridge the condenser fan is spinning and the coil is as clean as I can get it. On the inside the coil is mostly dry except a small portion has ice on it as seen in the photo. The evaporator fan is not spinning when I hold door switch closed.

I have swapped out the main control board because I happened to hang on to the old one because I thought it was bad the last time I had trouble, but it was only a control board fuse.

If the lead of the coil is getting frosty would this having anything to do with a start relay or overload? If the relay was bad would the compressor even kick on?

http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/182710-lg-refrigerator-clicking-but-not-cooling.html


texts: Is my window air conditioner cooling properly?

texts:
I am renting a place where the only air conditioner is a window unit mounted in the wall in the main living area.  The space in that main room is about 325 sq ft, and it has a 9 ft ceiling on average. The unit is a Frigidaire FAS182H2A1.  It looks like it was manufactured in 1999, but I can't recognize any other useful specs on the partially worn labels.  So, I don't know what its BTU rating is, and I couldn't seem to find the manual online.

Earlier in the spring, I felt it wasn't cooling well, and I took off the front panel to see that it was caked with about 1/8" of dust and pet hair from previous tenants. The landlord removed this, but the aluminum fins were still clogged with gunk. I tried the only thing that our local Home Depot had for this which was an aerosol can of foaming cleaner, so I sprayed and scrubbed for a couple days.  It looks a lot better, but I am not certain the fins are really cleaned out. The air conditioner is still occasionally spitting out what looks like chunks of dried black gunk that has been displaced from between the fins.

Last week it was about 95 degrees F outside, and after several hours of this thing being turned on to its max level, the room cooled down to about 81 degrees (with all doors to other rooms closed). I used a thermometer I had to measure the temperature of the air coming out of the unit, which was between 67 and 68 degrees.

It's only getting hotter outside (ugh), so I'd like to try to do something about this. So, here are my actual questions:

How much cooling should I expect from this unit?
Is it properly sized for the space?
Is there anything I can do to improve its performance?


texts: How can I locate and repair a leak on a flat roof?

texts:
I recently experienced a roof leak on a heavy raining day in the east coast.
Picture 1:  This is the interior ceiling.
I tore open the ceiling sheetrock and could see that water was dripping from the horizontal wood beams. When I checked with a flashlight between the horizontal beams I can see a tiny hole on the black material (above the beams). Water was leaking from that tiny hole.
Picture 2 : This is the outside/exterior roof of my building from where the water is coming in.
I am assuming its right under the red shingles but not exactly sure.
How do I exactly know where is the leak/hole from outside ?
I guess once I find the hole I can patch it up with flashing cement.
Any advice on what is the best way to fix this leak.

Thanks in advance.


texts:
My home was built in the 1950's and I'm in the middle of a full bathroom renovation. Basically I installed some door casing today, nailing it to the door box/frame. As expected, this left an ~ 0.33" gap between the casing and the cement board (since the cement board is screwed to studs which sit deeper than the casing). This will be fine as the wall will be tiled, and I can make up the difference with grout epoxy at the seams. However, the casing can "flex" i.e. if I push on the side of it furthest from the door frame / nails, it will bend toward the drywall until it makes contact. This bodes poorly for my tile / grout seams.

What's the best way to prevent the casing from flexing? I'm thinking about inserting some kind of shim in the gap every 6" or 12", but I don't really know how to make those. Maybe there's some kind of self-expanding solution I can use? Thanks.


texts: Does the rough opening for this door need to be reframed?

texts:
I bought an inexpensive 32" prehung entry door to replace an old wood door in my detached garage. After removing the old door and some really bad furring work, the rough opening is just shy of 36" which means I have about 2.5" of extra horizontal space.

I'm not going to make that up with shims but I could fur it down. On the other hand, the existing framing is not in great shape; I could tear it out and reframe.

What signs would make it clear that I need to reframe, rather than working with the existing framing?

There are a few things I don't like about the current framing:

The jack studs are splitting (worse on the left:

than on the right:

The opening is a bit out of plumb (but not too badly -- the difference is 5/8" from slab to header)
The jack stud on the right is warped:

The garage is unfinished and the siding is mismatched old boards that I don't much care about, so extra finish work isn't a big deal if I were to reframe. I expect that some pros will take the position "when in doubt, reframe it" but keep in mind this is a DIY project so it's not my reputation or livelihood on the line, just my pride and the functionality of the door.


texts: What type of paint can I use for exterior flagstone?

texts:
So I have this beautiful flagstone...which normally I would like but, as you can see, it doesnt match with our house whatsoever.

Im thinking we have two options: paint our whole house to match the stone or paint the stone to match our house.

Eventually, we want to paint the exterior but for now, we are looking for a semi-quick fix. Any recommendations? If we do paint the stone, what type of paint should we use, seeing that our walkway and porch will be heavy traffic areas.


texts:
I'm replacing an old light with an LED.  Old light is pull string so I'm adding a switch.  The light is connected directly to the power box/breaker.  Wiring is in conduit.

So I take the old light out, and wire the new one in.  Can I then run wiring to a wall and place a switch?  Pretty sure I can do this.

How about my next step.....can I then Run some line and have a second light using the same switch?  Or do I have to add a second switch?  So basically what I have is power source, to light, to switch.....to possible 2nd light


texts: how to disconnect main service drop at service panel

texts: when upgrading to a 200 amp service panel with service drop coming from bottom underground do I need southern California Edison to come disconnect and then reconnect or can I just do it on my own. I do have a permit.


texts: Installing OTR microwave with 15" deep cabinets

texts: We installed IKEA cabinets that are 15" deep (15.5" with the doors) and we have a GE OTR microwave that is 16" deep. So we need to bump out the microwave in order to open it. We see GE sells a kit, which is $130 and it bumps it out 3". This seems excessive. Is there another solution to this issue?


texts: How do I install electrical through existing stucco (e.g. "old work")

texts:
Is there such a thing as an "old work" stucco junction box?

Rather than cutting and flashing a 4" hole for a new junction box, can I cut a 1/2 hole for the non-metallic cable, and attach some sort of box with a flashing?

In this case I'd install an outlet in one such box, and a light in another.

For the same question for "new work" see How do I install electrical through "new work" stucco?


texts: Should the neutral and ground bars in my panel be bonded?

texts:
This is an older homes main panel. Question: I believe neutrals and grounds can not be on the same lug but can they be on the same bar? In addition, should i add a bonding screw on the top right?
Thanks!!


texts: So my bedroom dresser is pretty old. I recently have noticed a crack going down one of the slabs of wood. Is the only way to fix this with glue? I want to be able to fix it without replacing any of the wood, because it is handmade and almost impossible to take apart. And sadly I cannot post a photo because when I try, it doesn’t support my software. :(


texts: I'm going to repaint a ceiling that has a faux finish and a clear topcoat on it. The faux finish is some kind of yellow smear and the topcoat a rather low sheen, I would say satin. Is it necessary to prime with something like INSL-X Stix because of the clear coat, or can I get away with using ceiling paint directly on top?


texts: What kind of lubricant can I use on PVC pipe and fittings so that I can assemble and disassemble easily.  This is a stage made of PVC pipe that must be assembled and disassembled repeatedly.


texts: Is it safe to have a heating vent covered by a gas range/oven

texts: I moved into a house where I discovered the central air floor vent is directly under a freestanding gas range/oven. I can feel the forced air coming through the burners. Since it's a slab foundation it's not easy to move the ductwork. Eventually I'll have to remodel the kitchen to fix other hidden issues the inspector missed but in the interim I just want to be sure I'm safe. Thanks!


texts: Do power outlet splitters decrease power for each deviced connected to them?

texts: If I have a one to three outlet splitter, would this mean that each outlet only gets one-third power, or do all three get full power?


texts:
I have a 3-way light switch that I am trying to replace upstairs. The light switch controls a hall light, and there are 2 other light switches that control the same light. I've already replaced the other 2 light switches with new ones & copying the setup. However, the 3rd switch is different than the other two.
Current Switch Setup

Two bundles of wires coming from the top of the box - each with a white, black, and red wire
The red wires are capped off together (different from the other two switches where the red wire was used)
One set of Black & White wires are connected to two terminals on the top of the current switch
Remaining Black & White wires are connected to two terminals on the bottom of the current switch

Since a 3-way switch has a different setup than the current switch, I'm wondering how I should wire the new switch? Cap off the white wires with a third wire that connects to the new Switch & connecting both black wires to the common & line terminals?
Thanks!


texts:
I have a 2000W power supply running a battery charger that I use mostly for charging LiPo batteries for R/C aircraft. I've got this all mounted in a carrying case with a common "PC power socket" (IEC-60320 C14) mounted on the outside of the case. I currently run this from a 20A 120VAC circuit.

I'm going to be moving things around in the garage, including moving a washer & dryer along with adding some circuits to the electrical panel. This got me thinking about a dedicated 240V plug for the "charge box". I know the PSU will handle 240VAC, in fact I can't get the full output of the PSU at 120. The C14 socket I have mounted in the charge box says it's rated up to 250VAC. So far so good.

I have been thinking that I would just install a NEMA 14-30 socket when I do the garage work, then I would buy or make a NEMA 14-40 to IEC C13 power cable. Is there any reason this won't work? Is there a different plug I should be using in the garage wall? I'll still want to power the charge box 120V when I'm not at home so I would prefer to leave the C14 socket if I can. If I do change it, I'll want something I can plug both into my new 240V circuit at home and standard US 120V  NEMA 5-15 sockets.


texts:
In my 2nd floor condominium, I need to replace bathroom ceiling and exhaust fan. Old ceiling has been removed. My contractor is going to install new ceiling. I want to replace old exhaust fan and duct work too.
I want to replace old flex plastic duct with rigid solid metal duct for smoother air flow. But I am stuck in this dilemma.
I am assuming that connecting fan with rigid duct will be easier if I install it before ceiling is in place, because once ceiling is placed, I won't be able to connect ( and seal the joint with tape) duct coming out of fan housing with rigid duct in ceiling. With some tilting even if I manage to connect both ducts, I won't be able to seal the inaccessible joint because of ceiling.
If you agree with my assumption, then it leads me to  think that I should install it before new ceiling is in place, so I can connect both ducts and tape the joint. But then, my contractor has to make sure that the ceiling is installed at right level so that flanges of fan housing is flush against ceiling and the grill can be mounted flush to the ceiling. I don't have much confidence in my contractor and I don't want to end up with argument with him.
Is there an easy way to install fan after ceiling is installed and still use rigid duct work and be able to seal the joint?
I would also like to know if using rigid duct is good idea or not, if in future I need to replace the fan again, how easy it will be to push the rigid duct out of the way to remove old housing. With flex duct, you can easily push it out of the fan housing and remove it, but I can't see how it will be possible with solid duct.


texts: Connecting a Pseudo-Neutral to Pig Tail of GFCI

texts:
In my country. Our homes mostly don't have third ground wires connecting to the neutral wires of the utility pole because contractors are all into cost cutting. Although some important facilities have them. My old house didn't have neutral/ground lines and it's so far to the utility pole. Someone suggested at the home improvement forum how to provide neutral to the GFCI breaker input I bought for a project so as to power its circuit which needs 120V, but he fell short of providing any more details. He said: "on the need for 120V to power the GFCI's guts, here's an idea: a North American panel in the Phillippines has a neutral bus that is completely unused. Use it. Install a 5 VA (that should be enough) 240V center-tap autotransformer in there, tie the center tap to the neutral bar. Then land all the GFCI pig's tails on the neutral bar".

I have a Siemens QF260A GFCI Breaker:

The poster instructs me to connect the GFCI Pigtail to the 240v autotransformer center-tap. Can it really work? Any possible problem that can occur?


texts: I would like to install a group of outdoor sensor lights that will turn on all sensor lights when one of them is triggered, like NetBright, but I do not want battery-operated ones.  Are there products out there that can do this?


texts: my tv goes black for a second when my fridge goes off

texts: I know this may sound strange but it does happen not every time the fridge turns off only some times the tv and fridge are on different circuits should I get a filter of some kind or trash the tv or fridge any suggestion would be a help


texts: I have some loose flooring (I think it may be vinyl it's thin and has that plastic feel) that is sliding side to side and can easily be moved with my hand. I assume I can just glue it back down in some fashion but I'm not sure what product to use. I'm also not 100% sure what is under the  flooring so I want to make sure they work well together. Any advice is greatly appreciated this is in a bathroom next to a toilet.


texts: What's the best way to fix carbon to titanium?

texts:
I'm building (experimenting if you wish) something out of the old bike parts and I need to fix two parts together one titanium and one carbon.

Basically the parts are two tubes one made of carbon of a lower diameter and one made of titanium. So the carbon tube goes inside the titanium tube and I need to find a way to fix it inside for good. I guess it should be some kind of a hardcore gluing.

If anyone have any experience or suggestions please share. Thank you!


texts: How to differentiate neutral or ground bar?

texts: This is the main panel, the green neutral bonding screw is there. How to differentiate the neutral and ground bars? In this case, does it matter which one I use as ground or neutral for the interlock kit installation?


texts:
A friend of mine took down a ceiling fan to put up a light fixture. He was unable to get the light to work so he asked me to take a look. There is a 12/2 cable and a 12/3 cable coming into the junction box in the ceiling. I tested all of the wires, and there does not seem to be a neutral wire present. I took a pigtail light and touched it to all of the possible wire combinations and cannot get it to light up. If I touch one of the pigtail wires to a ground wire and then touch the other wires, all of them are carrying enough power to make the light work. I tested all of these wires with my multimeter and the black and the white in the 12/2 cable carry 120 volts, and in the 12/3 cable a white and a black one carry 120 volts and the red carries approximately 68 volts.
What could be going on here?  I'm an experienced electrician and this doesn't make any sense to me.
Additional information: There are 3 different ceiling lights total on this switch circuit. There are 2 3-way switches and 1-4 way switches. I tested the switches and they all seem to function just fine. My friend said he did not mess with the other 2 lights or any of the 3 switches. Flipping the switches doesn't change the voltage at the ceiling box. He said the ceiling fan worked fine before he took it down.


texts: Reapplying spar varnish/urethane to exterior door

texts:
I have a 'knotty alder' front door that was refinished by a contractor last August.  However, because the lower panel of the door has already deteriorated due to sun exposure, I decided to sand the existing spar/urethane for a smooth finish before applying 2 fresh coats.  However, after smoothing with a sanding block using 220 grit, there are several streaks where more of the urethane was sanded down due to unevenness of existing application (see photo).  I'm hoping that fresh coats of urethane will blend in and eliminate these streaks.  I plan to use a 320 grit sponge between the two coats.  Just hoping that my initial use of the 220 grit had not created a major problem!

Finally, I believe that I should wipe the sanded areas with mineral spirits before applying each coat of urethane.  How long should I wait before applying 2nd coat of urethane?


texts: How/where to put hydrogen peroxide in water heater

texts:
I just moved into a house that has 2 water heaters.  The second one was rarely/never used by previous owner and all the hot water that comes from it is smelly.  This came up during the inspections but the inspector said it's because the traps of the drain dried out so now we're smelling sewer gases.  That idea was a bunch of sewer gas, but I digress.

Other relevant information is that the hot water heater in question is relatively new being part of an addition from less than 10 years ago.  All that work was permitted.  The house is on municipal water, not a well.  I've already turned the temperature setting way up and let water run for a little while which seemed to help a little but it didn't solve the problem and the next time the water comes on it's back to the smell we started with.

Getting back to the point, I've read in a few places about changing the anode but also about putting hydrogen peroxide in the hot water heater tank.  I've found guides/videos on flushing the tank.  Unfortunately, I can't find anything about how to get the hydrogen peroxide in the hot water tank.  Surely they don't mean to cut into the cold water intake and then repatch that up later, do they?


texts: How can I put an audible notification on a yard gate?

texts:
A friend who has become blind and wants her iron gate to squeak so she knows when she has visitors coming. The house has a locked door and doorbell, but everyone has to open the gate first.
I tried wetting the hinges with vinegar over a couple of days and the gate does squeak a little, but I can't help but think there must be a better way to get a louder sound.


texts: I'm replacing a hall way outlet that only runs the hall light. I have the 15 amp outlet and the wires coming out of wall are too big to fit in holes. Guessing 20 amp? Is it ok to just wrap them around screws instead? thanks


texts: Do I have to bury PVC pipe if used outdoors?

texts:
I will be installing a hose spigot in a lower patio area that, till now, has had to have several lengths of hose to provide water for some potted plants.  There is an existing spigot on a 3/4" copper pipe on the other side of the house a good 65-80' depending on the route I choose to take.  I plan to tee off of it and then it will go one of two routes to the lower patio.

Digging a trench may not be an option due to rock and trees in the way so, it may be exposed to sun light, which would be a good reason to go copper but that could (will) get costly and be a lot more laborious then PVC.

If I do go the PVC route should I use the same diameter pipe as the copper service? Do I have to bury it? If I can't bury it, what are my options?


texts: What to block a hole with to stop mice getting in?

texts:
I have heard rustling sounds coming from my exterior walls, which I am assuming is mice (or some other rodent) scurrying around in the hollow wall.

I have found a hole about 2 inches in diameter in my electricity meter box where a thick electrical cable enters the house, which I think might be where the mice are getting into the walls.

What can I use to block the hole that the mice won't be able to move or chew through?


texts: Can a dry p-trap in my laundry room cause a sewer smell in my bedroom on the other side of the house?

texts:
My wife insists that when our bedroom/bathroom starts to have a sewer smell it can sometimes be alleviated by turning on the sink in the laundry room (on the other side of the house) to fill the p-trap with water. Could this possibly be true?

No other rooms in the house seem to get this smell (including the laundry room where the supposed dry p-trap is located).

All of the drains in our bathroom where the smell occurs are used regularly, so they can't be drying out.


texts: Light switch with two wires, but with voltage between them

texts:
I have an older light switch, with just 2 wires. One is energized, the other is not. So, I assume the later just brings energy to the light when switch is on.
However, using a multimeter, if I test them, I get 120 v. I was not expecting it, because if the second wire goes to the hot side of the light, they should not form a circuit and give 120 v.
Am I correct? It's not possible that one is hot and one is neutral, otherwise it would be a short circuit when switching to on, correct?
Thank you for any help!


texts:
My wife and I are considering buying a house that was built in the 1960s and has acoustic "popcorn" ceilings.  I want to know if there is a cheap, effective way to do a home asbestos test.

I'm still reviewing some of the inspection reports but I don't think they've specifically checked for this.

Tips, anyone?

-M


texts: How do I know what type of wood I'm buying?

texts:
I am new to woodworking, and I'm working on a small project requiring some 2x4s.

I want to buy this one from Home Depot. Is this solid wood or engineered wood?  They didn't say anything in their description. How can I find out?


texts: I recently installed and tiled a shower pan.  I did not realize that this particular pan needed to be furred out in order to install glass shower doors. Do I have any options or workarounds that would allow me to install glass shower doors without tearing down the tile?


texts: Are these cracks in a basement support wall normal?

texts: I'm looking at a 1930's-era house that has stone foundation walls. The basement seems to have been dug out and it looks a wall was built to abut the exterior wall. The wall has a plaster or stucco coating and cracks are visible along the top and side. Do you think this is something to worry about?


texts: Is it better to run one large load or multiple small loads to extend life of bearing?

texts: I recently replaced the bearing in my whirlpool cabrio top loading washer. I got to thinking and had no idea which would be safer for the bearing. On one end it's a greater load on the washer, but on the other end you are rotating the bearing more times.


texts: Connecting UF wiring for under deck lighting to an existing NM exterior light switch

texts: I plan on installing LED lights under my dry-below deck using 14-2 UF Romex. Can I connect the UF wire to an existing exterior light (NM Romex) that is switched from inside the house? If not, do I have to run the UF back to the panel and install a separate switch to control the new LED lights? Switching the new lights from the existing switch would be ideal.


texts: I have several spare 240 breakers in my panel box. I'm adding 8 outlets from 2 different rooms.  Can I use half of the 240 breaker instead of replacing with a 120, or should I pull the 240 and replace with a 120? One of the spare 240's has wires coming out but are no longer in use (for old baseboard heat).


texts: How do I add an electrical switch to a series of lights from an additional doorway?

texts: My basement shop has been fully wired to operate by one power switch.  I would like to add another switch to power up the shop by entering from another door.


texts: How to make stone fireplace look better, darker and shinier?

texts:
My fireplace looks somewhat dull and cement-y. I would love to hear more suggestions to make the stones look better. I am thinking about putting some clear coat to make it darker and shinier. Is that a good idea? What coating do I use?

Thanks.


texts:
I've got two twin beds "joined". There are basically four independent components: two mattresses and two bed bases.

They are pretty uncomfortable to sleep on. They shift as I move at night. They aren't fixed in any way.

I was thinking of connecting them by a strap. Something like this, but not that fancy. It would help to solve the upper part. The lower one would still be free and detached.

Do you have any idea how to make this thing stable and interconnected?

Thank you in advance.

Update:

It's a rented apartment, and I am not supposed to sell things or change them significantly.

I don't wanna buy new furniture.


texts: Why does the breaker keep tripping on a circuit with two rooms' lights and a sewer pump?

texts:
I have a circuit-breaker that is connected to lights in two rooms, and to a sewer pump in the basement.  I had the sewer cleaned out and the pump inspected, and no problems were detected.  I then had a new breaker switch installed.  However, the new switch keeps tripping as well.  This was not a problem for many years, so something has changed to create the problem.

What is the likely solution to this problem?


texts: How many watts does a 3/4hp disposal need to run

texts: How many watts does it take to run a 3/4 hp garbage disposal


texts:
I have a room where I removed the wallpaper in preparation for painting. Surprisingly, the very old wallpaper just peeled right off, leaving behind most of it's glue. I used some wallpaper remover spray to quickly clean up the few spots where some of the backing paper stayed behind, so now the wall is just drywall covered almost entirely with a thin layer wall paper glue.

I tried using the wall paper remover to take off the glue, and it works well, but is tedious and time consuming (compared to how easily the wallpaper itself came off).

Is it really necessary to take off this glue? Will new primer and paint adhere to it as well as it would to the drywall or am I asking for trouble with premature peeling paint or other problems down the road?


texts: Water radiator system has single loop instead of flow & return pipes -- does this make sense?

texts:
I have a hot water heating system connected to several radiators throughout the house. While all diagrams I have seen of radiator plumbing have a separate flow and return pipe, this one has a single loop of pipe from the furnace outlet to its inlet. Each radiator branches off this main loop and returns to it a little further along the loop.

My first instinct was "this doesn't make any sense", that there should be very inefficient, if any, circulation through the radiators (though they do clearly heat up).

But I'm noticing that each radiator has one plain 3-way split from the main loop, and one joint that has something else going on:

(Flow direction is left to right; this picture is the only example where I can fit both pipe connections in the same picture)

I tried some googling to find what this device might be called, but no luck. My best guess is it's a valve that prefers flow from the return pipe but will open to through flow if the return pipe does not have sufficient pressure (i.e. radiator is shut off). Can anyone identify this device? Is this a typical water radiator setup?

I'm hoping to learn a little more about how these systems are connected and if there's anything I should seek to change if I end up redoing any of this plumbing (for ex finishing the basement)!


texts: What tool do I need to cut groove along edge of floorboard

texts:
Very simple question really -

I have a floating wooden floor and a raised stone hearth in front of the fireplace. I want to run some cables along the edge of the hearth and I need to lift the floor trim around the hearth and create a groove to hold the cables.

What's the best tool for the job?

I think I need some type of handheld router but I'm worried that there is not enough space to cut the groove given the high hearth edge.

The trim is about 1 inch wide and the hearth is about 2.5 inches tall. There are old floorboards under the floating floor and I want to run a network & TV cable around the fireplace.


texts: Help with Sain Smart 24V Relay Cycle Timer Module

texts:
I'm considering getting one of these:

https://www.sainsmart.com/products/24v-relay-cycle-timer-module

...to force my 2nd floor thermostat to force heat on every so often (say, 1 minute every 15) to "warm the pipes" to overcome poor insulation (fixing this is not an easy option). I currently have a simple Honeywell thermostat:

https://yourhome.honeywell.com/~/media/epresence/product%20images/pro-1000-non-programmable-thermostat/th1110dv-c1-3.ashx

I'd like to wire in the above timer module so that it shorts the R (24 Vac power from heating transformer) and W (Heat relay) wires on a cycle. I have no electrical know-how. Can I simply use the 24v power from the thermostat to power the timer? And will this timer work for this purpose?

The timer manual (wiring info starts on page 6):

http://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.image.smart/download/101-30-209/101-30-209.pdf


texts:
I have a three receptacle circuit connected to a 15 amp circuit breaker.
I have identified the first receptacle in the circuit and want to add install a GFCI and a switch next to it that will control the downstream load receptacles.
The switch will turn off two downstream load outlets connected to the GFCI via the load line leaving the 4" GFCI box.

The circuit's line cable is coming into the box as well as the load cable The two wires from each cable are connected to their respective holes and the screws are tightened. The grounds are pigtailed.

Can someone explain how to effectively do this?

I am assuming that the black load wire from the GFCI has to be cut and connected to one screw of the switch and the remaining cut black wire screwed to the other screw.

I would appreciate guidance on how to efficiently accomplish this wiring
Thanks for your help.


texts: I have moved into an older home. All of the outlets are two prong only. Is there an extension cord that will plug into the wall with a 2 prong, but has 3 prongs in the extension part? If not, how am I going to make things work in this old place, lol?? Thank you for any help!


texts: How do I remove dried latex paint from clothing?

texts: How do you remove dried latex paint out of clothes? It has been there for several days. I haven't really tried anything yet because didn't want to make it worse.


texts: A wooden plank on my fence is sagging. It's stuck so it's very hard to push it back up. How do I put it back in place and what tool should I use?


texts: What is this mysterious filter and purpose?

texts: Behind the regular HVAC air filter and next to the duct, there is a filter area with some rough filter covering an additional smaller duct. Does anyone have any idea what it is and its purpose?


texts: How much "slack" should I account for when doping a long run of electrical wire?

texts:
I'm finally getting around to updating the service in our detached garage. I've decided on 6-3 NMWU, running inside 1-1/2" Schedule 40 Conduit for the underground run.
I remember seeing utility linesmen being careful to give themselves a few loops of slack when running new wires, to account for expansion/contraction, mistakes, etc. and leaving that nice neat loop on the telephone pole.
Do I need to add slack for household electrical? If so, how much? Do I trim it after to a precise fit, or leave a loop in the wall? 6-3 seems awfully thick to try and make loops!
The conduit run itself I've estimated at 55ft end-to-end. From the main panel <--> sub-panel is about a 60ft total run.


texts: Is it possible to over tighten adapters, valves, etc, causing leaks?

texts:
My son replaced the sillcock valve easily enough, using plumber's tape at the connections, but there is a tiny drip from the adapter and now the water shut-off valve. The home was built in 1990.

Could this be caused by over-tightening the valve?


texts: Can walls be built on top of backer board?

texts: I am building a laundry room with a closet. I could frame the walls and then add backer board. However, it would be easier to apply backer board to the entire room and then frame the closet on top of the backer board. Is this an acceptable method?


texts:
I’ve bought this timer: http://www.pdlglobal.com/data/product_documents/784_installation_guide_document.pdf

The wiring diagram is in that PDF.

I need help understanding how to wire this up. I’m replacing an existing switch, so there are two phase wires (red), two neutral wires (black) and two ground wires (green/yellow) in the wall. I know which phase wire is live.

I tried wiring it up with the live going to 2, phase output going to 1 and each neutral going to 3 and 4 but that caused the fuse to trip which means it was a short circuit.

I then tested with a non-mains power circuit and found 3 and 4 are the “switch” so I connected the live to 3 and the other phase to 4 and that’s working as a switch but the timer isn’t counting (the neutrals are looped with a cable joiner but not connected to the timer). I now realise this is happening because the timer needs a neutral to complete its own circuit to run the counter.

Advice on this would be really appreciated!


texts: Why is grout at tub edge disintegrating?

texts:
1 year ago I remodeled my bathroom.
Tile guy did a cheapo job.  After the fact, I used a clear silicon to line the edge between the tile and the tub.
Now I see this deterioration of the grout at the tubs edge.
What is causing this?
Notes:

This is on an exterior wall.
Wall has insulation, Durock, AquaBan coating and taped edges.


texts: Trane xv90 blower won't come on regardless of what the thermostat is set at

texts: I have a trane xv90 and the blower won't come on.  I'm getting about 20 green flashing lights and then 1 red which kinda overlaps the 21st green.  What does it mean?  I had turned on my trane air conditioner from thermostat and air conditioner fuse, but forgot to turn on the circuit breaker for the air conditioner...so at first its blades weren't turning and it made a weird sound, however, I discovered this and then turned the circuit breaker on.  Air conditioner is working fine but furnace blower isn't coming on...tried turning everything off and restarting but it still didn't fix it....any suggestions?


texts: How to insulate already-existing stud walls along block foundation

texts:
My new (to me) house has a 60-year-old block foundation. The previous owners did little to no insulating in the basement. However, they started to finish a bedroom down there, and got as far as framing the walls and wiring in the outlets and lights. I'm interested in finishing the job.

The framing was done using pressure-treated 2x4s for the sill plates and the studs that border the foundation, and ordinary 2x4s everywhere else. The distance between the studs and the foundation walls varies, but is never more than an inch, and in some places it is barely 1/8 of an inch.

My research tells me that the "right" way to do this would have been to cover the foundation walls with sheets of rigid-foam insulation first, then build the walls in front. Given that it's too late for that, what's the second-best option? Spray foam (expensive!)? Cut rigid foam to fit the spaces between the studs and caulk the seams (time consuming!)? Paint Drylok between and behind the studs, then fill with fiberglass batts? Just use fiberglass and hope for the best (I've been told fiberglass will eventually grow mold if you install it in the humid space adjacent to a foundation wall)?

I live in an area where it stays below freezing for most of the winter. The soil around the house is sandy and well-drained.


texts: What material provides semi-permanent, strong bonding with a concrete floor?

texts:
The professionals doing repairs at a workplace seem to be capable of patching  stairs with material so tough, and make it stick to the existing cement with such strength, that the patching survives years of use, even when it is done on the tip of a stair, as shown below.

My own needs are far more modest. Still, I'd like this not to be a job that looks bad after six months, and that gets completely detached after twelve. My garage floor is abraded in a few places. No place is worse than the one letting air through under the garage door.

I know that I could use some cement, but that will not last very long. Can you guess what material has been used on the stairs above, or can you suggest some material that will provide a semi-permanent solution? I am quite happy using an entirely different color (I'll paint with an epoxy-based paint at some point anyway), just so long as it lasts.


texts: What type of light bulb connector is this?

texts: Hi there I have just bought this hanging lamp whose bulb connector type I cannot identify, I got it in Italy and the only thing I am sure is that the light bulb must be some kind of tube shape for it needs to go through a decorative casing that's no longer and no thicker than an index finger. I have included photos:


texts:
I live in the Pacific NorthWest in what I believe is a zone 4 marine environment. Our house was built in 1979 and is in decent but outdated shape. I'm remodeling a 5'x7'bathroom and have removed the sheetrock on the one exterior wall to reroute some plumbing. When I removed the original sheetrock I also removed the insulation which had a soft almost flour like texture that would pretty much crumble in my hands.There was no vapor barrier on the interior, and as far as I can tell there is no vapor barrier on the exterior.
I'm now getting ready to close up the wall and have two questions.

When I insulate this exterior wall using mineral wool, will I need to put up some kind of vapor barrier? if so what do you recommend?
Part of this exterior wall will be used by the shower/tub. The shower surround I'm using is Flexstone over cement board, will I need to use a vapor barrier on that area as well? If so where would it go, over the insulation before I put the cement board on?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How to verify if the protective earth/ground is separated from the neutral wire in an electrical AC installation?

It's easy to verify which wire is the phase without relying on wire colors. But I'm not sure if I'm able to determine which wire is the ground and which is the neutral.

I have heard that using a multimeter it will show a higher voltage between the phase and the neutral than between the phase and the ground.

Is that method correct? Is there any other way to determine if the wire colors are correct and the installation was done properly?


texts:
How can I safely open, wire & close this E27 lamp holder? I’m afraid without a proper guide I’ll end up breaking it or damaging the external or internals.

Update: Thanks to you I got it open (health issues) and I’m wondering what kind of connectors these are and how I am to bind the wires to them? Before I click  pop and close it again.
Ps: I stripped the wires a bit at the end after posting this. I’m wondering where they go & how they will remain bound / locked inside. Please don’t tell me these have to be soldered. This mechanism has got to have some secret that I don’t know.


texts: Non woven geotextile fabric for french drain clogging in heavy clay

texts: I did a lot of research on french drains before I hired a landscaper to put one in a month ago.  Followed advice of the French Drain Man and used 4oz non woven geo textile fabric.  I also had standing water in a low spot 15 ft away from french drain so I installed catch basin, shoveled a ditch, laid non perf corrugated pipe and laid it perpendicular to the ditch of the Fr drain burrito wrapping fabric thinking it would percolate thru the fabric and into the fr drain pipe. I left the intersection area open so I could look down and see if it was working. During Heavy rain last night I checked and found the both catch basin area and the intersection open hole flooded with water.  This morning I baled out the hole and found water is pooling/standing on top of the fabric and not moving thru it. Pricked fabric with T pin multiple times but the flow is very slow when I subsequently tested it.  Does heavy Kentucky clay when wet form a non permeable layer of mud on the fabric?  If so then the whole Fr drain is not working!  Not from KY so I am amazed at the type of clay here.  Bad stuff!. Originally installed Fr drain due to water in crawl space.  Some water did come in after this storm but it appears to be less than before.  Anyone ever see slow to no percolation in non woven geo tex fabric in heavy clay?  Also need advice on what to do. Additional info: Drain installation: ditch lined with fabric all sides and bottom, laid in perf corrugated pipe, filled ditch with #57 rock up to 8 inches below ground level, burrito wrapped fabric over the top of rock/pipe and covered with fresh topsoil.


texts: Minisplit ductless communication wire question

texts:
Simple question and I am obviously missing something, but the manual calls for 14/4 to be used as the communication/power cable.  That is 1 wire for communication, 2 hot wires and lastly one for ground.  Could I simply use 14/3 w/g - that is your typical romex? The only difference seems to be with the romex the ground is a bare wire.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Are radiator reflectors as effective as claimed?

texts:
I recently completed a survey to determine the energy efficiency of my home. The results weren't great but got me thinking about the quick and affordable things I could do to improve things and hopefully reduce our outgoings on energy.

One thing that has come up a few times is the use of radiator reflectors. Energy companies recommend them and the UK Government has approved two for use, but I am a bit sceptical as to how good they are.

Wikipedia has a good article on the topic, indicating that a highly reflective surface would indeed reflect some heat back from behind the radiator out into the room. Great if it's true.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them and, having seen how easy they can be to install, how well Radflex ones perform.


texts: How do I override my Rotospa's top temperature limit?

texts:
As with all UL compliant hot-tubs my Rotospa is set to max out at 104º. I am reasonably confident that there's a straightforward way to override this limit (I've seen YouTube videos for how to do it on other brands of hot-tubs).
Would love some advice or a link to a demo of how to do this. I understand that this will most likely void my warranty - I'm unconcerned by this fact.
Thanks in advance.


texts:
Is my contractor guy doing a botch up job with repointing.
Is it normal that it's drying out all cracked up like this and it's easy to crumble.
They are only using the masonry cement type S and color are they supposed to be mixing it with sand to strengthen? Is this just the first layer? So was able to add screen shots


texts:
While insulating my garage door, I'm considering replacing the existing plain glass with something better.  I'm considering replacing each pane, or simply attaching a second layer on the inside of the door, to create a double pane effect.

What kind of glass should I use for insulating a garage door window?


texts: How can I remove wax from a wooden counter so I can resurface it with Danish oil?

texts:
A wooden (beech) kitchen counter has been treated with cheap wax in the past, and is now discolouring because of food preparation and constant splashing. I've decided to make a better job using Danish Oil but first need to remove the wax from the beech.

I have performed this routine 4 or 5 times:

Soak with White Spirit.
Sand with 120 grade along the grain.
Wash with hot soapy water.

The reason I've done this so many times is because there always seems to be more wax coming out of the wood.

My question: Do I have to continue sanding and washing the wood to remove any trace of wax, or have I done enough already to apply the Danish Oil?

I'm planning to rub the Danish Oil in to the wood with a cloth, leave overnight, then buff it up in the morning, possibly applying more the following night depending on the colour.

If anyone has any advice for producing a really nice water resistant finish, that will be greatly appreciated.

The worktop is as pictured below, to help understand what type of wood I am working with (not my photograph, but same product) :


texts: Do I need to mud drywall before applying ship lap?

texts: I am put up ship lap in my bathroom and replacing drywall. Covering and sealing drywall. Is it necessary with ship lap? It's in the bathroom.


texts:
I may have to run 1200 feet of fiberotptic cable and AC power cable. I would run PVC conduit in a trench with the fiber inside. I can buy pre-terminated non-conductive outdoor fiberoptic cables in this length range. But has anyone ever done such a long pull? I don't think it is advisable to break the fiber into shorter segments due to return loss, etc. I only need two strands of fiber, but I will probably buy cable with more strands just in case there is some need in the future. Six strands seems to be common.

Ideally I would like to run the fiber in the same conduit as the power, but this seems perplexing.

In order to manage pulling the copper wire, I think I will need to break it up into 300 foot runs with intermediate pull boxes. It seems like it would be extra work to pull the fiber through the segments 300 feet at a time. Also, some segments would experience extra friction. Basically, whatever is going into a conduit segment should be pulled all at once in one go, it seems to me. But this will be hard if the copper is in 300 foot segments and the fiber is one continuous run.

I could run the fiber through its own conduit, but if I don't need to do that, I don't want to. I mean, I am paying for the conduit. Also, seems like it would be a difficult pull. (Please comment if you have experience).

Anyway, if you have done something like this, please let me know what the best way to do it is.

I am adding this information because I think people will ask. The copper wire will be 240V (two hots no neutral). I will run AWG14 THHN wire. There is not much of a load up there, and the load can tolerate a very wide voltage range (down to 100V). Ampacity is fine and I can live with the voltage drop. Will also run a 14AWG ground wire. Will install ground electrodes at far end.


texts: How to NOT attach pergola close to house

texts:
I want to build a pergola over my back patio slab.  I want it to be "immediately" when you walk out the back door.

With that being said, for simplicity sake I'd rather not attach the pergola to the house and have to deal with a solid mount from the pergola to the house.

Is this ok/normal?

If it is, what kind of spacing should I put between the pergola and the house to not run into any issues.  I can't imagine a pergola would sway too much, but I am close to the coast and we can have windy days of course.

So, for example, if the pergola is 4 inches off of the house is that safe?  Anything else I need to consider here to have a pergola close to the house (close as possible) but not attached to the house?

Thank you in advance!


texts: How can I remove/reattach the clamp on a dishwasher hose?

texts:
I'm trying to fit a dishwasher into our kitchen. There is a small gap in a counter top for the hose to go through, and the part of the hose that connects to the tap is too big to fit through... Is there some way I can disconnect and then reattach the fitting?

Here's a photo of two pipes with the fittings I can't get off:

Here's a photo of the hole I'm trying to get this pipe through (with the pipe alongside for size):

The irony of this is that I know I did this before as the dishwasher was plumbed in previously, but I can't remember how :(


texts: How can I repair a carpeted floor partly worn down by an office chair?

texts:
I'm a tad worried over the current state of the carpeted flooring in my room. Over the past two to three years I'd used an office chair (on casters) without a floor mat in said room and the spot where it was used left a kind of dent that has only grown bigger since I replaced the chair with a folding camping seat.

Will I be required to replace the floorboards underneath the carpet? I can't tear up the carpeting and give further details so I can only assume that the floorboards underneath buckled as indicated by the slightly expansive warping and the noticeably uneven at times creaking boards underfoot.

Thanks in advance.

edit: this floor is located on the first story of the house. To my knowledge, there is a crawlspace underneath.

edit 2: I consulted the homeowner about the floor and she'd said that the subfloor was composed of plywood boards that are at least three to four inches thick.


texts: Shower Runs out of hot water after a few minutes but sinks stay hot at the same time

texts:
I've just moved into a new house and my shower runs out of hot water after a few minutes.
It's heated by a 10 year old Bosch tankless natural gas unit which I believe claims 105k output BTU which should easily be enough to handle the shower.
One interesting thing I noted is that I get more hot water if I leave my two bathroom faucets on on full the entire time. The interesting thing is that if I leave these on, when I get out of the shower once it has turned cold, the sinks will still be medium sometimes very hot.
I did a descaling flush on my tankless unit and I did not see any scale coming out in the flush.
Interested to get thoughts.


texts: Attempting to install new stair treads and risers

texts: I have the stairs prepped, but I noticed that the risers and the treads that are there already are not square. Do i use shims to square up the risers and treads or is there another way? Do I stain the treads and risers before they get installed or do them after?


texts: Should I bend my roof edge away from the fascia to prevent water wicking?

texts:
Last year, I had a new fiberglass shingle roof installed by one of the better roofing companies in my area. Overall, I am happy, but I'm not sure that the drip-edge was done correctly. It seems that water will wick up under the edge and potentially cause rot (I live in a humid area).

I am considering attempting to bend the edge up, so it is more like the previous drip-edge. I think that if I make a wood wedge on a table saw about a foot long, I can push it up under the edge and press another piece of wood at the existing crease to increase the bend. I know that it will flex enough to get a wedge in, since I put temporary spacers under the edge so I could get paint under the edge (roofer left any replacement fascia unpainted).

Is this a good plan?

I pointed out my concern to the roofing company owner, he disagreed. I wasn't sure enough to argue much.


texts:
My county requires a permit to replace an electric water heater. They also require installation of an expansion tank. I looked up the purpose of an expansion tank and learned municiple sourced water can vary in pressure at end points, possibly exploding the water heater.  But I have a well. Can someone explain why well owners are required to spend this extra 1K+ please? Also, where can I access data on exploding water heaters and
losss of life?


texts:
I have erected false walls using osb boards on the face of plastered brick wall to accommodate some photo frames and decorative items. Total surface area is 8'×8'.

My intention is to paint the osb board using high gloss white paint. This paint requires primer to be painted first.

Since osb naturally have tiny holes and voids, i think the primer must be diluted for easy flowing into those voids and gaps.

To keep the cost low, can i use petrol (gasoline) for thinning the primer?  The paint thinner cost 6 times higher than the petrol in Malaysia.

Pls advice.


texts: Tried switching old thermostat with digital one....wasn't working, so switched it back to old one and ir is still not working

texts: I decided to upgrade the old thermostat control for heating/cooling, to a simple non-programmable digital unit. I simply attached the wires to the corresponding terminals in the new unit. After swtching the power back on, when I tried the heating and cooling, the furnace/ blower didn't startup. It showed on the new thermostat that it was calling for heat/ cooling, yet nothing was working. I triple checked that I had put the wires on the correct corresponding terminals, prior to switching back to the old thermostat. I had turned off the power at the furnace unit before commencing with the swap but, now that I think of it, perhaps I should have turned off power to the outside cooling unit....prior to swapping out the thermostats? One last thing, I noticed a subtle secondary click in the breaker to the furnace unit, when I turned it back on after installing the new thermostat. I know what a breaker sounds like when it trips....and this certainly didn't sound like a normal tripping noise....of course the breaker did not physically trip. I heard the same slightly delayed secondary click after re-installing the old thermostat. There is power to both sides of the breaker and to the furnace heating elements. I can't get a reading at the thermostat wires though. Ther is power going in the one side of the thermostat and no reading on the out terminal. Not really sure what the heck is going on....as it was working just fine prior to my messing with it. Is it possible that the transformer just happened to die at the point I swapped the thermostats out?? Any help/ suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


texts: How can I remove grout and mortar from a drain?

texts:
I accidentally poured some mortar and grout down my bathroom drain when I was cleaning the remains of a bucket of mortar after tiling the kitchen. The drain was plugged up pretty bad so I tried to scrape some of it out with a wire hanger down the overflow, and that got it flowing again, but its still draining kind of slow.

It's an old house, so the drain isn't PVC, it's galvanized, or bronze, or whatever they used back in the 50's


texts: 20' run of romex unsupported through confined-space basement finished ceiling?

texts: I've 2-runs of 12/2 w/G romex supported to studs from breaker box up to where it needs to run unsupported 20' through and alongside (parallel) floor joists of finished floor/basement ceiling for 20' to a junction box at other end where again it'll be firmly supported to studs. My QUESTION is it OK to have it laying unsupported on the sheetrock ceiling while only being fastened to studs on both ends. Basement ceiling is finished I prefer not chopping into it??


texts: How many and how heavy of container plants can a rooftop deck handle?

texts:
We have recently had a rooftop deck constructed on the third floor of our MN home, and since we have virtually no yard, are considering using some of the space to "go green," while still leaving plenty of room for entertaining.

The deck is 8x24, made of cedar, by a reputable contractor.  It sits on the third floor on a nearly flat section of roof, above the enclosed living space on the 2nd floor and an open porch on the 1st floor.  We have several lightweight pots we use for tomatoes, other vegetables and flowers outside.  When filled with potting soil and plant material they weigh 25-30 pounds each.  At about 15" in diameter we could put a row of about 15 of these on the deck with still ample space for sitting/entertaining -- or up to 3 such rows, if in the future we wanted to grow more of our own vegetables.

As what point would the weight of the plants potentially become a problem for the structural integrity of the deck and/or roof?


texts: How can I fix a Groaning/bubbling toilet?

texts: Our toilet "groans" when flushed- it makes a loud noise that does not appear to be correlated with anything I can see. Also, it randomly bubbles and leaves black pulpy residue inside the bowl. Is there an easy fix to this that I am missing?


texts: Toilet leaks into the wall after the flushing stops?

texts: water leaks behind the wall after I flush the toilet and after the tank fills up and stops then I hear drips down in my kitchen. If I turn the water off at the shut off valve and flush afterwards I do not hear the drops in my kitchen. Could it be the shut off valve under the toilet?


texts:
I think this wooden piece is called sill but not sure, (as seen in the picture below, in red box)

I am think of replacing it with a new one, the question is, is it standardized? I measured it and the length is 36". Where can I buy it? Anything I need to pay attention to when replacing it?

Thanks


texts: At what temperature should an unoccupied house be kept at in winter?

texts: We are moving to a new house and unfortunately we don't have our house sold yet. I was wanting a recommendation as to what temperature to keep the furnace going @. I found a good recommendation to turn off the main water line and try to drain the pipes as much as you can so you don't have to worry about pipes freezing. Until we sell it we will be paying for two house payments so of course we are trying to cut cost as much as we can. I was thinking 50 but i i'm just guessing at this point.


texts: Tiling when some old vinyl sheet flooring is impossible to remove

texts:
When I remodel my basement bathroom and remove the old vinyl sheet flooring, I realized the current one was on top of another old one. And between the two sheet flooring layers, there is a thin layer of paper/glue that is 1/16" thick.

Starting from bottom up in the picture:

1 is concrete

2 is old vinyl

3 is some weird paper+glue layer

4 is the topmost vinyl

I was able to remove all 4 layer and some 3 layer but most left there on top of the concrete:

I took me an hour just to pry off the small portion you see on the right side in above photo.

My questions:

Should I just put thinset and then tile on top of what it is now? Basically forget about removing the current 2 and 3 layer? They stick very good and I would say it is adding 1/16" - 1/8" in some spot. This option saves the most time but I don't know if I get good result. I plan to sell the house in a year or two so I may not concern about 5-10 years later.
Should I install hardie backer board on the floor? I would think it may be unnecessary as it's already concrete.
Should I pour some self leveling cement? I saw this a lot on TV but never done.
Should I just spend 8 hours to scrape off the rest? Or is there a faster way, with probably some heat gun and large putty knife??

I am leaning toward Option 1 above right now.

Please advise.


texts:
I am selling a house, and am just about ready to put it on the market.  Just yesterday I noticed the cleanout to the sewage line is rusted through just below the cap.

Is there some way to repair this?  Extend it somehow and recap?  Plug it?

The last thing I want to do is start digging in concrete.

I assume I can't leave it as is?


texts: What to use so concrete doesn't stick to plastic bucket?

texts:
I'll be using regular plastic buckets to make some concrete planters, something like this. My goal is to reuse the buckets.

The problem is that she sprayed each bucket (generously) with canola oil and non-stick oil, but the dry concrete stuck really well to the bucket. She ended up having to cut both buckets to remove the concrete planter.

Is there anything I can spray the bucket with so that the plastic doesn't stick to the concrete?


texts: Winterizing: What to do with humidifiers if turning off the main water valve

texts:
My house will be vacant for about a month and I'm strongly considering turning off the main water valve.  However, I have a couple humidifiers which I generally need to run because I have a lot of interior wood flooring in the house.  I'd like some advice on what to do here.  I see three options:

Turn off main water valve, don't drain the pipes, leave the humidifiers on. (Not sure what problems might be caused if the humidifier is running off the remaining water in the system... seems like it could cause a problem.)
Turn off main water valve, drain the pipes, turn humidifiers off, and just accept that I'll see more cracks in the wood flooring.
Don't turn off main water valve, leave humidifiers on.

No matter what, I'm going to continue to run my heat pump, and I don't expect deep freeze conditions.


texts: Determining if a recessed light is rated for outside use

texts:
How can I determine whether a recessed light fixture is rated for use outdoors? I understand local codes will have a say, but I'm looking for a general purpose answer.

I have a covered, wrap-around porch on my house that I would like to install recessed lighting in. I would assume this is considered a wet location. The wiring is already there as there are two outdoor ceiling fans, so I'm mostly concerned with understanding what sort of specs are required of the actual fixture.

For example: I see this sort of fixture which is labeled as "in damp locations" but does not explicitly call out outdoors/exterior. Conversely I see this fixture which is marked for exterior use, but there is no specific rating that I see.

I guess a related question is whether or not I'm just looking in the wrong place and need to go to a specialty store for this sort of thing?

Edit: This is one side of the porch.


texts: Should I have the return line replaced when installing a new heat pump?

texts:
I have a 2000 sqft. house and need to replace a 4-ton R-22 system that uses a 1-1/8" return and has a short line run with the condenser 8 feet lower than the evaporator.
I have received quotes that recommend replacing with another 4-ton R-410a system, but the quotes differ on whether to reuse the existing 1-1/8" return line or install a new 7/8" line. The manufacturer install guide says that the system is rated for a 7/8" return line and does not mention 1-1/8".
Will a 4-ton unit still be enough with a smaller return line? Will using the existing bigger line cause problems since it's not rated for it?


texts: I have a Concret patio with a wood frame structure over it. It is 20'by 20' with a 4" hang over. I would like to put a metal cover on it also remove the post in the middle of the room. Can it be done with metal beams and side's I thought it would be less weight if done this way. It wood be a span of 20ft. Can I get beams that long if so where can the materials be purchased.with the post in the middle it is useless and too hot with a cover. Big problem


texts: Greenhouse (cold frame) side walls - footing question

texts:
Planning a hoop house, or cold frame style greenhouse. I live in Nebraska, we get pretty consistent winds, not unusual to have 50 mph gusts.

I want set two parallel 3-4 ft tall rows of 4x4 posts, 4 ft apart. The 1-3/8" diameter "hoop" arches (made from chain link top-rail) will get secured to these posts every 4 feet.

I really don't want to bury the pressure treated 4x4's in:
A) the heavy clay we have here
B) concrete

When they rot out, it would be difficult to replace if anchored by a 500 lb block of concrete.

Can I use a sonotube, then wet-set a 4x4 saddle and attach 4x4 to the saddle?

I read that concrete saddle's aren't really designed for wind-sheer (fencing) loads. Not sure if my hoop house would apply more of a wind sheer or downward force?

thanks!!


texts: Water is leaking thru my smoke detector and water is pooled up around the bottom of the ac in the attic

texts: Came home and heard smoke alarm going off went into bedroom and water is pouring from smoke detector. I go


texts: Outlet worked fine for years.  It stopped working...changed with new one (wired just as the other was, Black to gold, White to silver, Ground to green).  Nothing.  Nothing Hot to Neutral, nothing (2v) Hot to Ground, 122v Neutral to Ground (both in outlet and wires without.  This is on same leg as three other lights, all of which still work, breaker not tripped.  Help


texts: How to secure a wooden box (tunnel) in a wall?

texts:
I'm going to fit a cat flap in a brick wall. My intention is to drill out a square hole through the wall. Then create a wooden (MDF) tunnel to fit inside this. On one end of the tunnel, I will attach an extra piece of wood with the cat flap fitted.

My question is this How do I secure that wooden tunnel into the brick-work?

Obviously the drilling is going to leave a messy edge, which I intend to tidy up with cement and/or filler, but I can't see that these are going to get much purchase on the MDF. I can imagine, one good kick to the outer face would send the whole structure flying into the house.


texts: I ran a new supply line to my pool pump from a 20 amp breaker with 12 ga. UF-B romex out of my attic, down 14 ft. of 1/2 inch conduit on the side of my house then 2 ft below grade, another 40 foot not in conduit, then up to a switch in conduit. My breaker keeps tripping about every 3 days, even with the switch disconnected. Is it due to overheating from running in too small conduit at 90 bend going into attic? Nothing else is on the circuit. I replaced the breaker, thinking it was defective.


texts: Should you repair the entire floor before refinishing a basement or go room by room

texts:
I'm in the planning stages of a basement refinishing project. The basement has a concrete slab that is in decent shape but needs a few things:

Some sizable (6"x6"x1/2") protrusions need to be ground down
Some similarly sized areas need to be filled in
It is otherwise fairly flat, but definitely not level (say 1/4" slopes over 6').

I'm going to basically be partitioning the area into two rooms (a workshop and a laundry/bonus room). My question is, do I tackle the entire floor first by doing the grinding and leveling across the entire area, or do only the messy major repair first (grind/fill in) and then do the leveling after framing in each of the two areas? I plan to put down vinyl planks so from what I understand it's typically cement/underlayment/vinyl planks. I was planning to use a self-leveling product for the first step.
In other words, do I not try to get the whole basement level across its entire dimension, but rather make only the two rooms level within themselves, to try to make it a smaller job and not require so much of the self-leveling product.
Also, if anyone has an advice on how important it is to get it level vs. simply flat and relatively level, that would be good to know.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Jared


texts: Why won't either toilet in my mobile home flush?

texts: We have two bathrooms on either side of our trailer. For some reason neither of the toilets want to flush. The back fills up with water, I flush and the water sits in the bowl and doesn't drain at all. I've plunged the hell out of it. It's been snaked. I don't know what else to do. Someone HELP!!


texts: Would having the ground from a 277/480 panel hooked up to the ground of a 120/240 panel have the potential of causing problems, such as fried electronics?


texts: Are my calculations for stepping down from 240v to 208v correct?

texts:
I just bought a used UPS and didn't realize I bought 208v and not the 240v version. So I'm looking for a buck-boost transformer. Both input and output are at 30amps.
I think I've done the math right.
240v-208v=32v
32v*30amp=960va
So I'm looking for a 16v/32v 1kVA buck-boost transformer. Am I right here? Do I need more VA for tolerances?
(Updated)
The wires are 2+G 10 gauge wiring. The UPS has an L6-30P (male) tail and I've got an L6-30R socket ready to install once I figure out the transformer setup.
UPS Specs: https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-5000VA-208V-Rackmount-Tower/P-SUA5000RMT5U
Feed Circuit:

UPS Input Label:


texts: How to get rid of a burned coal smell that's coming to my flat?

texts:
I live in a semi-urban area, where most surrounding houses use charcoal or black coal to heat them. Since my flat is on the top floor (2nd), the outside chimneys are not that much above my roof and, in consequence, during the few months of winter, depending on the wind I'll get an unpleasant smell of burned coal in my apartment.

So, how to get rid of it?

The obvious answer is to close all gravitational ventilation inside the flat, which is what I do at the moment and which is cumbersome and not a permanent solution as the gravitational ventilation needs to be turned on at least periodically.

I was thinking about buying lots of plants. In the vain of this TED presentation and blog post:
http://mattnt.com/2010/08/15/air-filtration/

The question is - what kind of plant/plants would deal with this problem most efficiently?

Or maybe there is a better solution?


texts: Removing bulb causes a different fixture to go out

texts:
I have ceiling fixtures, let's call them A and B. Normally, both fixtures are always on (lit) -- no switch controls them.

When I remove the bulb from A, fixture B goes out.

Here's how it looks inside the junction box that feeds both fixtures:

Fixture A is at the top of the box. Fixture B is the one on the bottom (I think, not 100% sure about that.)

As you can see, the white wire from Fixture A is connected to the other white wires in the junction box. That makes sense.

But, the black wire from Fixture A is jumpered onto a white wire, that's then connected to the white wire on Fixture B.

What's going on here?

I plan to put motion-detector bulbs in both fixtures, so I want them both hot all the time.

Can I just remove that white jumper wire and connect the black wire to the other black wires?

I have confirmed that there's nothing wired downstream from the Fixture A box - the wires terminate there.


texts: How do I improve the drainage of this grass driveway?

texts:
I've got a long grass side-yard which doubles as a driveway for both my residence and the ally behind my house. After a few heavy rainstorms here in Southeastern North Carolina (read: business as usual), the end of the driveway has lost all of its grass due to standing water and vehicle traffic.

Fast forward a year and the driveway has turned into a sand pit, with no hope of improving on its own. Currently I shovel the sand back into the pit from the street about every other month.

As far as improving it, I do not have any easy place to run a pipe to drain it. I've considered adding gravel to the end of the driveway, but I'm not sure how to make that look "classy". I've seen various gravel/grass retaining systems, but I'm not sure how effective it would be if I can't solve the excess. drainage.

I can't see how I could incorporate a drain either, as everything slopes to the end of the drive. Here are some illustrations of the slopes I have to deal with. The X's mark low points.

Another consideration is extending the mulch bed to the rear of the house, with bushes and flowers, to provide some natural absorption capacity for runoff coming from the house-side. I've also considered adding some kind of "lip" to the end of the driveway in order to encourage the sand to stay in the pit, but I don't think that would do anything in the long run.

Given this layout, what sort of drainage options are available? Keep in mind I likely would not be allowed to pave anything (Historic District).


texts: How to find or make a 72" tall interior solid door

texts:
I'm trying to finish a large closet into a makeshift office. I'd like to add a door to the opening to the room. The opening is 32" wide by 73". I was looking for a 30x72" prehung door, but everything seems to be 80" tall, and I don't think trimmable doors are designed to cut off 8".

How do I find or build a door that's the right size?

Thanks!


texts: Can my house's electricity supply be upgraded?

texts:
I'm trying to start a business in my house: Cryptomining. Essentially, I will be buying many big power-hungry computers which will print money out of thin air. It's a very lucrative business.

(source: coindesk.com)
Right now my house's utility supply is 200A 120v + 200A 240v, which is 72 kW 48kW total. This means I should be able to use ~32 kW for my equipment aside from all the household appliances. The equipment can accept both voltages and actually is more efficient on 240v.
Can the public electricity supply to my home be upgraded? The house is located in a development off the main road. The wiring runs underground for about 1000 ft. until it connects to the utility pole on the main road. So my guess is a solid "no".
I have considered renting a small warehouse and starting the business there. The problem is, most of the properties I find on real estate search engines (like Loopnet) only have 100 or 200 amp service. I need at least 120 kW in order for moving out of the house to be worthwhile.
What are my options? I know heat dissipation will be a big problem as well, but let's set that aside for a moment.
EDIT: My location is central New Jersey, U.S.A., and my house was built in 1998.


texts:
My son called me told me that my brand new out of the box mower's engine surges. Yes I'm going to take it back to the store,when I get back in town, and have them fix it but in the mean time I am curious as to what would cause a new engine to do this?
Thanks,


texts: Why is it a bad idea to install self-stick tiles over luan plywood?

texts:
I am intending to instal self stick tiles over a primed luan underlayment in a bathroom. However, the manufacturer's instructions clearly state:

DO NOT install over unsuitable or unstable subflooring such as chipboard, OSB, luan plywood, mahogany based plywood underlayments, Masonite™, cement board, fiber based backing boards, or any other non-underlayment grade panel

In trying to understand why the luan would cause an issue, whereas plywood would not, I've since read that luan contains certain "extractives which adversely  affect  the  "cure"  of  mastic adhesives."
I'd like to find a way to make this work without needing to tear up the newly installed underlayment. Will the primer help in this regard? Is there any additional prep I can do to maximize the probability of a successful installation / adhesion?


texts: What is this electrical junction box? (re: adding 3-way switch)

texts:
I'm trying to replace an existing switch (at the top of the basement stairs) with a 3-way switch by adding an additional switch at the bottom of the basement stairs.

The existing switch box has 4 romex wires coming into it.  Three of them are 12-2 and one is 12-3.  The 12-3 is already connected to the switch like shown in this picture:  (maybe they pre-wired it for a 3-way switch install at a later date?)

I'm trying to trace the wires and it appears to go into a strange junction box in my basement that looks like this:

Does anybody have any idea what is going on here?  The incoming wire looks huge like an 8-3 or 10-3 wire (?).  What is this junction box and what are the tiny telephone (?) wires coming off of it?  The smaller side has 12-2 wires going to the switch, and the larger wire appears to come from somewhere (upstairs electrical box?).  The tiny telephone wire appears to go back upstairs through the floor boards to somewhere I don't know.


texts: What is the right wire size for a 30A 220 Circuit over 40 ft?

texts: I get conflicting information, one person says 8/3, another say 10/3.  Just going to be used for space heater.