texts: How to lift the corner of a heavy stove with a bottle jack

texts:
So I have a very heavy stove that I need to lift one corner of (to slip back in a floor protector disc that slipped out) and it's too heavy for one person to budge.  I think it's 350 lbs.
I have a bottle jack that I'm trying to figure out if I can use, but I don't see any reachable hardpoints to get under and only spots where I'd have to cantilever a clip or something to.  The stove bottom is only an inch off the ground so I can't get underneath it.  The hardpoints are either too low for the jack, or something I can't reach with the jack since I'd have to open the oven door.  There are some small slits that I can get a small flat piece of something into perhaps, like in the horizontal grille between the door top and the controls.
Any suggestions for a simple jury rig I can do to lift up the corner of the stove with a simple part or something I can fashion from around the house? (I don't have to move the stove if that makes things easier).


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Another puzzler. I have a Lennox CBX26UH 3-ton air handler with the 2-stage, 3-element 15kW electric heater option.

The problem, as in the title, is that the system, when power is applied, is always on and always heating, even if the thermostat is set to off, cool, or even completely disconnected. The problem started when we switched over to heat for the first time in the late fall. The first few times, resetting the breakers solved the problem, but now it's totally stuck. I've tested the thermostat with a multimeter, and it appears to be in perfect working order (I would like to replace it anyway, as it doesn't support two-stage heat, so the yahoo who installed the new heater, instead of upgrading the thermostat, wired the primary heat demand to activate both stages, which is likely why we've been paying $400 a month in the winter to run the thing).

Further testing in the heater itself has led to two separate culprits; the blower relay, and the first-stage heater relay. Both of these are normally-open DPST relays, actuated by demand from the thermostat, but both pairs of switched terminals on each relay are reading continuous even with the system completely disconnected from power and the thermostat removed. A third relay, the sequencer for the second stage, reads open as expected.

For further reference, the wiring diagram can be found on page 20 of this manual: Heating And Air Parts - CB26UH Manual. The blower relay is bottom center, while the faulty sequencer relay is Sequencer 1 just above the center of the diagram.

I guess my question is, how likely is it for two relays to fail closed at practically the same time? That sounds extremely unlikely, but not impossible especially if one failure (say the sequencer) caused the other. If this kind of failure is common, I'll just look up the replacement parts. If this failure seems fishy, I might keep looking or see if I can find someone doing a deal on heater repairs.

EDIT: So it turns out the blower relay isn't faulty. I disconnected it and tried the continuity tests again, and this time one pair is discontinuous while the other is continuous, and that's what the circuit diagram shows should be happening (at least that's what I think the slash through the plates in the relay means, that it's been shorted, which along with the jumper on the opposite side from the supply lugs means that as long as the first coil is on, so is the blower, which is exactly the symptom I'm seeing).

The culprit is Sequencer 1. I removed the heater assembly so I could get better access, removed the sequencer and tested again, and the top switch contacts are continuous. Looks like a heat-related failure, which is kind of expected of a component in, well, a heater.

So now to find a replacement sequencer. Here's a pic of the top of the relay:

I can't find an exact match; closest I can get is this one which has slightly longer warm-up times (1-20 seconds for the main switch instead of 1-15, and 30-90 seconds for the aux switch instead of 20-45), but not radical enough to make me think it won't work, and the site says it works with the ECB26 series of heaters including my ECB26-15CB.

... Or, since this particular model doesn't have all four coils, if I swap the two sequencers and use the aux switch for the stage 2 heat, I should be able to get this thing working at least for tonight. The stage two heat won't kick in until 20-45 seconds after demand, but that shouldn't really be a problem.


texts: Can I use mortar to roughly level a basement floor for workshop?

texts: I recently got my foundation repaired and am left with a very cracked and uneven concrete floor next to the wall. Along the very edge any leveling compound would be at least an inch deep.  All I plan to do in the room is put down some epoxy floor paint and turn it into a workshop.  So basically I don't need it to be picture perfect, and self leveling compound is very expensive, so I was wondering of mortar would work well enough in this situation.  My primary concern is whether or not it would adhere well enough and whether or not such a large slab of the stuff would be prone to cracking.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: What is this pressure release drain funnel?

texts: In a new construction home, there's some plumbing that I'm not familiar with. It looked like a funnel drain to me. The builder described it as a "pressure release and condensation drain for the furnace and tankless water heater". What I find particularly odd is it looks like there's open space between the white pipe and the black funnel beneath it. Is this normal/appropriate?


texts: Need help with recalcitrant shower faucet handles

texts: I have a leaking shower faucet (two-handle shower-only) as seen below.  The faucet handles won't come off and I'm wondering if they are non-standard in some way.  I've used (1) a handle puller (2) wiggling them with vice grips (3) WD-40 soak.  They don't seem to budge and I'm afraid of forcing them more.  Any advice?  (Needless to say, I removed the screw).


texts: When I flip the switch to turn on the ceiling fan it works...for a while. Then the circuits in the room blow. Is the issue electrical or an old fan?

texts:
I'll lead with saying I'm not a handy man. I'm not an eletrician. That said, light bulbs in our house do burn out in various places fairly fast. The issue at hand here though is the ceiling fan in my master bedroom. If I flip the light switch on the wall to turn the fan on, the turns on just fine. It may work for a few minutes or even a few hours. One thing is certain: before morning, the circuits will blow and it will smell like something is or was burning. I've put tape over the light switch since we don't know if the issue is the fan itself or something more extensive than that.

I'm not sure if it possible with this information, but would replacing the fan resolve the issue? Some folks I've talked to (not professionals...just family) think it may be the fan motor.

One last thing. The wall switch next to the one that controls the fan will turn the fan light on and off. This works fine and has caused no issues.


texts: What is the best way to board interior of a large shed?

texts:
I have a large shed/workshop which I want to board with OSB/Ply to make the interior more usable for hanging things from the walls and to just generally make it "nicer" inside. I'm not fussed about packing it out with insulation and there is no water making it inside currently.

Am I ok to just attach boards to the framing or do I need to put some sort of moisture barrier in place no matter what?


texts: About 5 years ago we had a bathroon remodel and the contractor used clear pex for the hot water service. Last week we realized that we had a leak under the tile. Today a different plumber dug down and as he got to the pex he tried to lift it a bit and it just snapped and broke in his hand. The tubing that is there is so brittle that it has cracks in the wall of the tubing. Are there other instances of this happening? If so what remediation has been done to correct it?


texts: Is this fiber asbestos or an old paper material?

texts: Taking this paper down that is covering Shiplap. It looks like the paper I made in elementary school when you tear pieces of construction paper and put it in a blender to make new paper. House was built in 1933 so I’m worried it could be asbestos. Old owner said she thinks it’s just paper. Please help :)


texts: What does this shutoff switch in a 100 year old house control? Located in plaster wall near top of basment steps

texts: This shutoff switch, near the top of the basement steps in an old home confounds us.


texts: What are the pros and cons of aluminum coils versus copper coils in an electric hvac unit? Why?

texts: What Are the pros and cons of aluminum coils versus copper coils in an electric hvac unit?


texts: Projector arm on drywall (possible stud available)

texts:
I am planning to hang a projector which weighs 8lbs (~3.5kg), on a wall arm.

The arm weighs 4lbs (~1.8kg) and has a load capacity of 44lbs (~19.9kg), and I'll be hanging the projector at the arm's minimum extension (~12").

The fact that the arm is extended away from the wall adds leverage and therefore increases the effective force applied by the weight of the projector so as far as the wall is concerned, it's not just the 8lbs. I'm not savvy enough to calculate this though- perhaps someone can point me in the right direction?

I have (to be confirmed) found a 2" stud with a stud detector in what appears to be 1/2" or 5/8" drywall/plasterboard. I have some molly bolts, various size screws with rawl plugs available.

I am wondering

If I put 2 screws into the stud and 2 molly bolts in the plasterboard would it likely hold?
If it's not a stud, and I use 4 molly bolts, would it likely hold?

Commonly people suggest placing a board behind the arm it seems, but I'm hastened to do this as effectively the questions above still apply.

There's equal leverage, but it increases probability that I would hit 1 or more studs, or enable me to spread the molly bolts around a greater area.


texts: Hot and neutral touched. Some lights no longer working

texts:
I was disconnecting a light fixture, it slid down quickly the hot and nuetral wires touched and caused ceiling lights in three rooms to go out. One outlet is also not functioning.

I went to the panel to switch the breakers on and off.  Still no ceiling lights in three rooms.  All the outlets are working except for one.  Please advise.


texts: If a Drill's Clutch doesn't properly align the gears, can it cause the Chuck to loosen?

texts:
So I was using my hammer drill to drill into some masonry when I ended up hitting the clutch to a lower setting. When this happened, the trigger remained pulled for a moment, but the bit nor the chuck rotated. I assume the clutch didn't align the gears properly.

So I rotated the chuck until it seemed it popped in place, and ran it for a second in that gear - all seemed well. I switched the clutch back to the hammer setting and rotated the chuck for the click. When I went back to drilling, the drill spat the bit at me and dinged me pretty good.

The drill's chuck isn't keyless, or at least I haven't tightened it without the key. Is what I've described an indication that the clutch loosened the chuck or should I be worried the drill is damaged? I went back and put the bit back in and had no more issues for a few more holes before I was finished.

Oh, and I was wearing safety glasses and the manual of the drill mentions nothing about the clutch. /Norm.


texts: How to fix a bathtub faucet that leaks only when the shower runs?

texts:
I just moved into an apartment and the faucet in the tub is fine when all of the water is off. It leaks when I turn on the water and switch it to the shower head. What could be the problem?
It's a rental so I don't want to take the switching mechanism off to investigate. I suspect it's some sort of rubber seal in the switch.

UPDATE

The control is a twist knob between the cold and hot twist knobs.


texts:
Some rubber feet came off of my chair's legs, exposing bolts that are digging holes in my carpet.

I used a temporary solution of just lashing some kitchen sponges onto area with rubber bands, but the bolts dug through those in a week or so. What can I do? Is there a (cheap) product available for this kind of situation, like a hard-drying rubber or silicone putty or something?

I tried just removing the bolts but they wouldn't budge or unscrew. The metal is very soft so I suppose I could just saw and sand them, but I'm looking for second opinions.


texts: How to repair latex paint on drywall in bathroom?

texts:
Within the two years we've lived in our house, the paint in our master bathroom has gone from glossy white to cracked and peeling in several spots.  In addition to this, staple-shaped rust spots are appearing around the edge of the ceiling, where the drywall tape would be.  The ceiling is slightly bubbling over the shower.

What do I need to do to save my walls and prevent them from getting worse?  We do run a vent while showering.


texts:
We just bought a house that needed some upgrades and one of the first ones up was the electrical panel.  Hired an electrical company to come out and upgrade it to a 200amp box.  Work went fine and everything passed inspection but they didn't wire in a switch to control the pool light  Previous owner had cut the wires to the light switch so all that is left is the junction box (wires from light and leading out to missing switch are connected) by the pool and a pipe that contains the cut wires.

When I asked about adding the switch for the pool light I was told it would be a couple hundred dollars since the work order only listed providing GFCI protection for pool light.  So my question is can I add a second switch by using the switch that already exists for my pool pump?  They also installed an exterior outlet so I'm not sure if I can tap into that instead.


texts: How do I protect people walking around my deck from banging their head on this overhanging platform?

texts:
Below is the picture showing the platform that I am talking about

The plan is to have the barbeque under that so that aspect is taken care of. Probably a plant toward the house end of that underneath area. My question is more about adding some foam or something on the wood joist that holds the platform but I still need to preserve the modern look of my deck


texts: Changing a 3 gang Australian switch loop light switch to a Smart switch with no neutral?

texts:
I actually have an identical issue to this one HERE, except for the fact my triple smart switch only has four connections, and L1, L2, L3 & L  (see below), so I'm pretty sure I have the right switch as needed in the linked question and my existing wiring loop is identical to the OP's one, like this.

this is the new switch.

It came with basic instructions

and a capacitor

I feel like this should be really easy, particularly with the instructions and only 4 connections, but I'm not winning.
Can someone let me know the correct way to connect the wires, please?
I have the white wire connected to the L, with the red wire (from the same switch) in L1 and the other lone red wires in L2 & L3 respectively.
My issue is that although the smart switch sort of works, one of the switches (L3) seems to be a 'master' in that the other two don't light the globes unless it's on, even though all three switches themselves light up regardless (light blue when off, orange when on).
I'm not sure how it's not right, but obviously something isn't the way it should be.
Do I need to put the capacitor on the circuit where the L1 bulb is or should it work without?


texts: How should I connect ground and neutral for my vehicle charge circuit to my panel's bus bars?

texts:
These two rows that I see connecting white lines are they both for neutral or one is for neutral and other for ground ?  Or are both rows for neutral and I need to add the ground bar on the side?
Where do  connect the neutral and the ground on this panel for my 14-50 receptacle for my electric vehicle charger?


texts: Gap between half moon window and lower windows

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Is something missing in this gap? I had a lot of water come in through the top corner of this window last storm.

I’ve caulked and placed silicon anywhere I can see possible. The entire house siding along the right side of the window about five feet down is rotten so I’m a little confused where all the water is coming from.


texts: Is PPR pipe that is twisted around its axis still reliable?

texts:
A PPR pipe is twisted (not bent) around its central axis by the weight of flexible pipes (and water in them) that is connected to its exit which is right angle to the pipe (that is the reason for the twisting force).
All the pipes are mounted to wall (not buried in wall or there won't be such problems). The mounts only keep the pipe from move, but cannot prevent the twisting since the pipe can twist in each mount (and bend a little since there is ~0.x meter space between mounts).
Not sure whether the twisting will produce large shear stress inside the pipe and will it be reliable anymore?
Are there good ideas to balance the twisting force?
Note: the pipe under discussion is not bent since there is no force to bend it, but the pipe that is right angle to the twisted pipe is bent a little since the twisting force acts like a bending force on this second pipe which is not under discussion here.


texts: Powering Subpanel from CSED via Feed-Through Lugs

texts: I'm wiring my house and would like some feedback on the sizing and routing of conductors between the exterior service entrance and an interior subpanel. On the outside, I have installed a combination service entry device--aka CSED or meter main--by Square D (QC816F200C) with a 200 amp service disconnect. This panel features 8 slots, which will serve a whole-house surge arrestor (SqD HEPD80), a back-up generator power inlet (Eaton EGSPIB30), the well pump, and a branch feeder to power an outbuilding. My plan is to utilize the factory-installed feed-through lugs to then power the house subpanel, located approx. 35' to a central point in the interior. The subpanel is also by Square D (QO130M200PC) and came with a factory-installed 200 amp main breaker. The line between must pass through a sealed and conditioned (but unfinished) crawl space. Can anyone help me size the conductors, and let me know if they must be run in conduit? Many thanks.


texts: Replacing H-style track lighting lamps with a different H-style brand

texts: The installation instructions for my new track lighting heads (lamps) say: "This fixture can only be used with Lithonia (brand) track". But I was hoping to use them on my currently installed track of a different brand. The track (Hampton Bay brand) is UL listed. Both lamps and tracks are H-style. Does the brand really have to match too?


texts: fireplace door and stone veneer over brick fireplace

texts:
Do you install fireplace door before laying stone veneer or after the fact?

Suppose you do it "BEFORE", then the installation is clear, you just screw that metal frame to the bricks from inside. Here is my confusion though - doors will be almost (~1/4") flush with the bricks with metal frame overlapping like 2" of top and sides. How do you install stone veneer over it? Especially if edge stones angle over inside

Are you supposed to build a 2x4 frame covered with plywood to add depth over the door?

Now, supposed the answer is "AFTER", how do you hide gaps between uneven stone and metal frame? Do you secure the door frame right through the stone veneer?


texts:
I am about to install a ceiling fan where there was only a simple light fixture before.
The existing electrical box will be removed, and I will install this box in its place. This has me attaching the box directly to a single joist in the ceiling.
Image from HardwareWorld.com
I am not planning to use a brace to suspend the box between two joists. This is a relatively modern house from the 70s and the ceiling appears to be in good condition. I am wondering do I need to reinforce the joists at all or is this sufficient to hang a ceiling fan of average weight?


texts: Drilling hole for latch bolt with regular tools?

texts:
I need to drill the hole where the door latch will go, but I don't have a specialized tool for this. I only have a few spade bits (plus some regular bits), but they're all smaller than the latch.

What tools can I use to drill that hole in the door?

Thanks.


texts: Should I build a shield to protect building wire installed inside cabinet?

texts:
I had a new custom made cabinet installed and it forced me to move an electrical box from the wall to the inside of a cabinet. Work was done by an electrician. The outlet is now on the outside of cabinet and here is the work inside the cabinet:

Is this a correct and safe way to do this ? Any suggestions to improve safety?

I was thinking of adding a little wood boxing to contain the outlet box and wire to increase safety.

Thanks for your help, I'm very new at this!


texts: How can I finish an attic floor where the recessed lighting protrudes above the joists?

texts:
I’m trying to finish an attic, however, can lights from the living room and other electrical peeks above the joist about an inch give or take.  How would I finish the floor with those obstructions in the way.  By the way the joist are 16 inches on center.

Thanks in advance,


texts: What is the difference between a cheap and a more expensive submersible well pump?

texts:
I'm NOT asking for a recommendation for particular pump.  I want to know HOW to choose between pumps.

My understanding is as follows:

A:  The pump has to be sized for both the pressure you want at the output, and the volume you want.

B:  Pressure needed is output pressure + ~1/2 the drop between the output point and the water level in the well.

So:  For example.  The water level in the well is 60 feet below the top of the well.  The house is 20 feet above the top of the well.  I want 50 psi at the house.  I need a 50 + 1/2(20+60) = about 90 psi.

In fact I want a bit above this, as in use that 20 feet will increase under load.

I can also convert this to head by roughly H + 2P  So in this case H=60+20 and 2P=100, so I need a pump that produces a total head of 180 feet.

Again I want some cushion above this, as a 180 foot head pump would push no volume at this pressure.  More detailed planning requires reading the pump curves for the individual pump.

This all background showing that I'm not completely ignorant and am not comparing apples to aardvarks.

So on Amazon.ca we have:
OrangeA Deep Well Submersible Pump 25GPM Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump 0.5HP 150ft head Submersible Well Pump for Industrial and Home  for $149 including shipping.

Hallmark Industries MA0343X-4A Deep Well Submersible Pump, 1/2 hp, 230V, 60 Hz, 25 GPM, 150' Head, Stainless Steel, 4" $203

Red Lion RL12G05-3W2V 1/2-HP 12-GPM 3-Wire 230-Volt Submersible Deep Well Pump with Control Box $409

That controler box is a sneak -- not all list it.

I'm unlikely to buy a pump off of Amazon.  At least on the Canadian site they don't list either Gould or Franklin, which are the two most common names beside Red Lion.

But what features do I look for in a pump?

The present pump has been in use now for at least 20 years.  During the growing season it's running 24 hours a day.  It's starting to wear out.  I've had to crank back the cutoff pressure for the pump to actually turn off.  It's now cuts off at 45 psi.  I don't need to replace it this minute.  Next irrigation season starts in April.

What do I look for when choosing a pump?

Stainless steel casing.
Plastic vs metal impellers?
230 v  (Pump is 300 feet from house.)
Automatic low water shutoff?
Thermal protected motor

Is Variable Frequency Drive worth it?


texts: Can I run a plumbing vent through a wall instead of the roof?

texts: I'm working on a tiny cabin bathroom. I would not like to run a vent pipe and cut an opening in the roof. Are there any other options on the placement of vent for waste?


texts: Can I use my leftover green board as furring strips behind shower surround?

texts: In bathroom.  Putting in  new shower surround.  I removed more layers equaling more depth than putting back, so I need to add furring strips to make green board be at correct spot on tub. Question: can I use my leftover green board for the furring strips? So it would be stud, furring strip (green board), green board, shower surround.  Please and thank you


texts:
I've just moved into a new house and decided to paint the kitchen cabinets. Last night I took all the doors off and for the first time got a good look at the shape they're in. It's not so nice, especially under the sink. I found a tutorial on how to use a drill, jigsaw, and screws to replace the bottom MDF with some plywood and I'll probably be doing that. But the very bottom face part (above the toe board) is in pretty bad shape; it looks rotten.

I know how to use tools OK but I don't know the names of a lot of things and I feel like I must be searching for the wrong things when I try to find a tutorial on how to replace this. Here's a picture (not my cabinet) just to clarify which part I'm talking about:

I looked at it and it seems to be connected with some type of joining to that vertical piece in the middle, but I can't see very well and I'm hesitant to just try and rip it off until I know what I'm doing.

So if anyone can give me any guidance, I'd appreciate it. Like search terms I could use or if you know of a good tutorial on fixing these somewhere or even tips like, do people even just replace that part or is this something where I have to replace the whole face or what? Maybe it's not even worth it and I should just kind of hammer it in and paint over it?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Can anyone recommend colored 100% silicone caulk for use in a shower?

texts:
I have a shower with a tan colored grout. I need to put silicone caulk in the spot where the walls meet the floor. The previous owner used grout there and it is all cracked out.

I'm having trouble finding 100% silicone caulk that has colors. I can only find one, made by "Custom Building Products":

I'm not sure what "commercial" means, is it not meant for household use? Can anyone recommend any others that I can buy in the US? I can find others that are "siliconized", but I read that you're supposed to use 100% silicone).

(I'm not sure if it's ok to mention brands on this site, but I'm stuck I don't want to use the wrong product for this job, and not sure where else to ask).

Thanks


texts: Do sink drain basket strainers have to match the sink brand?

texts:
I am planning on purchasing a certain brand of fireclay sink (need a specific sink because of unusual size). It has a 3.5 inch drain hole.

On their website, the manufacturer claims you must use one of three of their own brand basket strainers. Needless to say, theirs cost $50 to $80 as opposed to $15 to $25 for generic brands.

Do some sinks really need brand-matched drain parts or are all 3.5 inch drains standard?


texts: I'm trying to remove a 16 yr. old Titan Dead Bolt. I have it disassembled but cannot get it out of the door. There is no strike plate on the door that I can remove. There is only a brass ring that the bolt goes through on the door side. How do I get the old mechanism out?


texts: Does this j-box follow NEC electrical code?

texts:
I'm considering buying the following product for a security floodlight install:
Arlington 8141-1 Vertical Siding Lamp Mounting Kit with Built-in Box for 1/2 Inch Vertical Siding LAP.  It seems to get great reviews, but I don't understand how this can possibly follow code.  It features a round, 4in diameter x .5in deep j-box.  In the simplest case, it would require six wires to connect a fixture at the end of the cable run (three from the NM cable, three from the fixture).  However, six 14-gauge wires would require a 4in round j-box that is 1.25in deep according to NEC.

Can someone please explain to me why this j-box is acceptable or not?  Full disclaimer, I'm a total noob at electrical so it's entirely possible I'm just not understanding something properly.  Thanks!


texts: What is Texas code for kitchen electrical outlet near sink and cooktop

texts: I would like to know the permitted height of an electrical outlet from the kitchen sink countertop or cooktop.


texts: How can I repair a plastic dowel in a cabinet in which the hole is compromised as in the picture pls.


texts: Stubborn laminate boards that won't lock, can I glue

texts:
I laid about 200 sq ft laminate, I didn't do too bad of a job but I missed 2 spots, away from each other but still pretty center in the room, where the boards just won't lock. I tap from both ends I hammer down flat on the joint, I air dusted it, I checked that the won't stay together.

If I try to replace the boards around the failed joint I'll have to lift up ~75% of the entire room. This seems really risky I know a lot of these boards are going to get damaged in the process, I would really like to avoid having to spend anymore money. can I safely use a small bit of glue at these two junctions? Or is there a better way?


texts:
I don't know if this is "home improvement" since it is about an item in my garden but it is not about "gardening and landscaping" either so I am going to ask it here in the hope that, since it I think the skillset required to answer questions here probably overlaps so here goes...

I have bought a swing for my child and she loves it but the problem is that it does not swing straight.  It is attached to a branch on a tree and as you can see in the photo below, the branch is not straight and, therefore, the ropes connecting either side of the swing are different lengths.  Sadly I have no other tree to attach it to.

Try as I might I cannot get a good swing action on it (the seat turns during the swing even if I am very careful and apply an equal pressure push).  I have got a spirit level out and the seat is horizontal (as far as the accuracy of that is able to ascertain) but it swings all wonky.  I don't know, I have been tightening and re-tieing knots for months now and my wife is getting angry and the child starts to look at me with a concerned experssion every time I sit her on it to "give it one last go."

Is there a technique for fixing this thing?  Should I build some sort of triangular wooden structure under it so the ropes are the same length?


texts: How to find a neutral to ground short on my main panel

texts:
I've just installed a subpanel in my attached garage. The rough in has passed inspection, however my main panel has standard breakers and has never had fault finding interrupter breakers in it, and was installed in 1990's.
The subpanel has the bonding screw removed and the ground is terminated to the subpanel box and goes to the main panel box with the neutral connected to the subpanel neutral bar and goes to the main panel neutral bar. The 2 hot wires go to a double poled breaker on the main panel bus. The main panel does have its bonding screw installed as required.
The main panel has the house ground attached to the neutral bar and then there is a ground wire running form the natural gas pipe then it connects to the copper water pipe and proceeds to the main panel and connects to the panel box.
The situation is when the arc fault breakers are installed in the subpanel and turned on everything is fine until a load is applied to the subpanel circuit and the breaker trips immediately.
The loads used at the time was a chop saw, garage lights, and plugging my iPhone into its charger on the circuit.
When trouble shooting I have also disconnected the neutral and ground lines feeding the subpanel and checked between the neutral and ground for any shorts. None of the grounds have any shorts to the neutral.
I've been reading up on what could cause this and have not found a concrete answer to this problem. What I have come up with are these 2-thoughts.

On the circuits of the subpanel has one switch box that is fed by two separate supply circuits. One runs the garage lights and the other runs outside lighting and accent lights in the studio in the garage.
Would having the grounds at this box from both circuits being joined together and including the switch box cause this kind of problem?
Could a neutral short to ground in one of the circuits of the main panel case this problem?
If so then how does one find the circuit with the short?

Now if I were to turn the main breaker off in the main panel, remove the incoming neutral wire from the neutral bar, remove the bonding screw, unplug everything that has a plug in the house and then with my meter see if the ground and neutral are isolated from each other or is there a neutral short to ground in one of the circuits keeping them connected. I know this doesn't tell me which one, or is there a very simple way of detecting a Neutral to Ground Short with in multiple circuits?


texts: Why are "horseshoe" shims shaped the way they are?

texts:
Here's an example of the type of shim I'm referring to:

They are sold marketed for various uses - tile spacers, leveling window or door frames, etc.  They are non-tapered.

Its not clear to me why the specific horseshoe shape is beneficial. Why not just a simpler flat piece of plastic? Or a more conventional circular "washer" shape if a central open area is needed?

If anything due to the thinness of the material, the ones I've used (1/8" and 1/16") are pretty fragile, which is a slight disadvantage of the shape. (ie it covers a large surface area without commensurate strength).

I assume these were invented for some specific applications ... what are they?


texts: Light fixture on new condo wiring question

texts:
Ok so my wife and I bought our first condo. It was built over 100 years ago but has some modern renovations and some early 90s renovations.
There were two light fixtures we hated so we shut the breakers down and took down the two of them and saw the wiring. One was straightforward it had a live controlled by the light switch. A respective neutral, a earth/ground connected to the bracket and some extra two black live wire tied together and and a blue and red live tied together not hooked up to anything and not controlled by the light switch that I assume are part of some whole house connection I heard about that is sometimes done with electrical wiring.
Here is a picture of the easier to understand fixture, this is in my dining room. The live wire controlled by the switch has a blue cap:

However the other fixture is confusing. This one is in my main entryway Foyer and when we bought the condo we actually noticed and our inspector noticed that the light connected to this fixture just didn't work. Also there was a switch nearby that appeared to not control anything so the inspector noted that we should replace the bulb and if that didn't work call an electrician.

Anyways obviously replacing the bulb didn't work and when I took the light down I saw that live was connected to live (blue and two black), neutral was connected to neutral and what appeared to be earth was connected to another live wire that was by itself and blue. I tested these with a non-contact tester and a multimeter. I can't seem to shut any of the wires off without using a breaker.
Here is the picture I am actually asking a question about:

I need to know what I am dealing with here. If someone can't help me a bit online how much can I expect to pay an electrician for this kind of work? Additionally I would like to note the inspection report got it wrong he must of misnoted on the report it is actually the right lightswitch not the left I can't figure out what it does.
I can throw a fixture up there and connect it to the stand alone live wire but then that fixture I think would always be on. Maybe I could get a smart fixture or something but I still want to understand what I am dealing with not just blindly install a fixture. Also the old fixture wasn't working so likely was installed wrong or broken anyways.
After comments clarifications:

I live in Chicago.
One of the fixtures was so damaged there was no putting it back once I took it off. It was on it's last legs and basically fell apart. Luckly how things were connected is in my memory.
I got the pictures of the Switch.

I want to install a 30 dollar IKEA NYMANE LED light in the Foyer. I want to install a Hunter ceiling fan in the Dining room. The NYMANE is easy to install I could probably install it in the Dining room if I wanted it to go there the problem is I want it in the Foyer. The Ceiling fan is a bit tricky cause I am not sure what my fixtures would support. I have a standard crossbar I took out of both fixtures...
Does a standard crossbar support a ceiling fan?


texts: Generator supply not working with Automatic Changeover

texts:
I am using Havells Changeover. There are three input,

Main
Gen
Load

Main has two Neutral wire, Gen has one, but Load has no Neutral wire

when system is on Main power, it works fine. but when Generator is started i don't get electricity in house.

lights blinks a little whole time.

is it due to missing neutral wire in Load?

should i remove one wire from Main and put in the Load? all are neutral wires same, or there is some difference


texts: Can I pour concrete next to my foundation?

texts: I'm planning to install a 4x4 fence into the ground by digging up a hole, adding some gravel, then pouring concrete in. Is it a problem if the concrete touches the foundation of the house? I've added a picture of what I'm planning (not to scale or anything).


texts: How do I patch a 3'x3' hole in a ceiling made up of plaster, lath, and metal mesh?

texts:
I've fixed leaks above my plaster-and-lath-and-chicken-wire ceiling, and now I need to fix the ceiling below it.

The ceiling is a sandwich of wood lath on top, then 1/4" of solid plaster, then chicken wire, then more plaster. The latter plaster layer is peeling off in sheets because it's not a solid layer like the upper one, but instead it's layered with several coats. The lath is in good shape and not rotted.

I'm not sure I'm ready for the amount of work required to replace the entire ceiling with drywall (or to cover the ceiling with drywall). Ideally I could just patch the bad area of the ceiling, which is about 3 feet square.

What's the recommended way to do such a large patch to a plaster ceiling? Should I leave the chicken wire and put 1/4" drywall on top of it? Or remove all plaster? Any other suggestions?


texts:
I'm new to owning a house with a well and am looking to clean up piping and well equipment as it is all from the 70's and I'm experiencing strong sulfur smells in my water.

From the specs I've gathered my well is 1/2 HP about 80' deep in the well with static water level at 14'.

Pipe from the pump is 1" poly however by the time it makes it to my utility room under the slab the pipe goes down to 3/4" in copper.

is 3/4" inlet sufficient to up-size my existing 40-gallon pressure tank to an 80 gallon? I will probably be staying with 40/60 pressure switch.

Thanks in advance!


texts:
I'm building a rudimentary awning with 2x4 treated lumber that I'm not using. One of the two "legs" of the awning looks like this. There's going to be a 2x4 attached to the concrete wall, and two 2x4's attached to it. The final result looks like below.

Considering that the top 2x4 is 6ft long, my concern is that it will be too heavy for the 2x4 attached to the wall. I've seen many DIYs doing something like this, but the upper leg isn't that long.

What do you guys recommend?


texts: how do i connect a plastic shower drain to my old metal sewer

texts:
I am remodeling a shower how do i swap this drain, with my old drain, for my old school mortar shower pan?
this is how it looks like on top


texts: Should there be a screw securing the main breaker in my electrical panel?

texts:
I'm trying to find the breaker to switch off a light fixture to install ceiling fan. I've tried all but the ones dedicated to ac, furnace, dryer etc. I decided to switch off the main and encountered this. Is this safe? Can I switch the main safely?
Thanks!


texts: best way to secure metal strip between tiles and wooden floor?

texts: We have a metal strip between our bathroom and hallway, which have tiles & wooden flooring. It keeps dislocating from where it is supposed to fit. What's the best way to secure it? Please see the photo attached, and if possible use UK DIY terms & links! Thanks]1


texts: Convert Front Door Entry Mailbox to a Front & Rear Door Entry Mailbox

texts:
I need to convert a regular MEDIUM size STEEL mailbox with only one streetside  entry door to place mail in & to take mail out.  I'm trying to figure out how to remove the backside of the mailbox so I can add a rear door facing the sidewalk.
 So far I've had no luck finding a MEDIUM size steel mailbox that has both front & rear door entries.

How would I remove the backside of a STEEL mailbox so I can add a rear door?


texts: Filling expansion joints before self-leveling concrete?

texts: I am adding self-leveling concrete to my basement flooring. I have expansion joints which are currently filled with a joint compound. How would I fill in the expansion joints so that I can cover the flooring with the self-leveling concrete mix?


texts: Why is my A/C drain line not draining at all?

texts:
I have a unit that is installed in the attic and is about 10 years old. My problem is I normally have to go up and empty the drain pan every month or so, but lately it's been every 3 days.

I have cleaned out the drain pipe, poured bleach in it and still no luck. I have checked the outside drain and nothing. It seems to be just draining in the overflow pan under the unit which is a pain because it fills up and hits the overflow switch then I'm back up in the attic with the old ShopVac.

What is my next step? I really don't want to call a repair guy cause of the cost but I am stumped at this point.


texts: Is it safe to not have a safety cutoff on an immersion heater?

texts:
I'm having some serious trouble with the immersion heater in my apartment. I believe the set up is similar to the one described in this answer, however there is no thermostat to turn the immersion heater off when the water tank gets hot enough.

Consequently, turning the immersion heater on heats the water non-stop, and ultimately leads to an overflow which causes hot water to come out of the cold taps, and for the toilets to fill with hot water also. Finally, water begins to leak from underneath the boiler. Is this a safe setup?

My landlord has blamed me for the leak, saying that I left the immersion heater on for too long (it was on for a little over an hour). He's now saying that I will be held liable for any future leaks.

Can this problem be put down to misuse of the equipment, or does it indicate a flaw in the system?


texts: How can I take the hooks off of this shelf holder?

texts:
I have a shelf holder, with all but one of the shelves taken off, in my closet. They look like this:

I'd like to take the two uppermost things sticking out of it off - I have no idea what they're called. It looks like they are supposed to come off:

I've tried pushing up near the point where they connect to the rail, but they didn't show any signs of budging.

Should I just push harder, or is there a better way?


texts:
My basement has the original steel (I think) framed windows in place from 1962, when it was built. I've removed windows in block before, at my previous house, but this one does not seem as clear. As you will see in the pictures, above the window there horizontal metal surface that appears to be attached to the window. It appears to be approximately 4-5" wide, and appears on both sides of the glass. The vertical part of the frame is approximately in the middle. I'm not sure if it truly is a part of the window, or something else, like a beam. It appears to be one piece with the frame

Essentially, my question is two fold. First, does this window somehow provided structural integrity to the block wall? Two, how should I start removing it - simply chip away the mortar on the perimeter?

Note: The window pane tilts in, and was removed for these pictures. Also, there is some white quarter round a previous owner had in place to pinch plexiglass in front of the window, trying to seal it. It's unrelated to the window itself.

Edit: Some details on the house... built 1962. Brick veneer. Block foundation wall.


texts: Problem plugging surge protected power strip into gfci outlet?

texts:
In my science classroom all outlets on the lab benches are gfci protected--that's great. I plug in multiple computers into some of these outlets and use power strips to do this, but it seems there might be a problem occasionally with this.

It seems that there might be a negative interaction between the surge-protected power strips and the gfci e.g. excessive tripping of gfci or even wearing out of the gfci. The electrician told our head custodian that it wasn't good to use surge-protected strips with gfci and I'm wondering if this is the problem and if so is there some way to mitigate it. But, maybe it's just a bad strip, maybe these old computers' power supply?

Edit: Before posting this question I spent ~30 minutes searching E-SE site for any information on possible interaction between these two components, to no avail. These 2 components are commonly used in residential and commercial electrical power distribution systems, yes? Ideally, the answer will provide specific technical knowledge on the design/functioning of these 2 components and explanatory/theoretical knowledge explaining why they might interact negatively.

HOWEVER, my question assumed 'generic' designs of surge protection circuits in inexpensive power strips and also generic designs of gfci. Perhaps this is a bad assumption?


texts: Looking for or adding a ground to an existing NEMA 10-30 socket

texts:
I have an unused older 3-wire dryer socket (NEMA 10-30R) in my garage, I would like to upgrade this to a NEMA 14-30 socket with an separate ground. I'll be using this for an EVSE unit for electrical vehicle charging.

The previous owner did some newer wiring around the box containing this socket and I suspect he might have either run a ground to the location or installed a ground wire to a water pipe or something.

I have two related questions:

If I shut off the breaker and take off the socket, what am I looking
for that will indicate a ground wire? Would it just be an unused
fourth wire in the box?
If I find only a 3-wire run to this box, is there a safe DIY way to
add a ground myself without running back to the breaker panel?
There's a very new furnace/air-handler and water heater very close,
would either of those have a ground wire I could tie into or should
it be something else?


texts: I have a walk-in closet that was wired with one hot lead from the bathroom. I want to put in a dimmer for the lights but there are also 2 outlets coming off of the hot. When I put the hot wire together with the black wires from the dimmer and the outlets the dimmer controls the outlets as well as the lights. Is there any way to make it so the outlets are on a constant flow and the dimmer only controls the lights?


texts: What is the strongest glue to secure a loose shower head?

texts: I think whoever installed the plumbing used CPVS and didn't even secure the shower head so it's loose. I don't want to open up the tiled wall so I'm going to spray some Great Stuff foam in the hole and use some kind of glue around the pipe. What would you recommend? I thought about grout but I think that would just crumble after a while. Maybe some sort of cement? I can cut around the pipe to add more room for any kind of adhesive/cement.


texts: In the US some air conditioners require 230V outlets. My apartment only has 115V outlets. Is there a way to convert 115V to 230V so AC can run without loss in cooling power?


texts: How do I finish my partially finished floor?

texts:
Ok here's the deal.  I stained and poly'd the floor with 1 coat. I tried a floor buffer to sand after the first poly layer.  Mistake.. the buffer was too strong.  In a couple areas the buffer started to show bare floor in some of the grain. So I rubbed some stain back on top of the affected areas just now.  I then rubbed the stain off with a rag.

My questions:

Before I poly again for the 2nd coat, should I rub mineral spirits over the area to clean the excess stain on wherever it overlapped the first coat of poly?
I'm running a fan on the re-stained area now so it dries quicker. How long should I give it?
If I rub mineral spirits to remove the stain on the poly, will it dilute the part that I want in the wood?

It doesn't seem like mineral spirits could raise the stain back out of the wood grain where it just penetrated again, but this has been such a cursed project so I had to ask.

Or

Should I just leave whatever stain residue is in place on the first poly coat and rely on the 2nd poly coat to cover it?


texts: Using half of a 240v dual-phase circuit as a 120v single-phase circuit (US)

texts:
Usually when I see a 240v device, it is wired to its own double-pole circuit breaker, with each pole connected to a different 120v phase (to provide 240v total). If there is a 120v device in the same location, it is wired to a separate single-pole circuit breaker, which it often shares with other 120v devices.

If a neutral were wired along with the two phases in the 240v circuit described in my first paragraph, either phase could be used along with the neutral to power a 120v device. If there were no other 120v circuits nearby (and with enough capacity), this could potentially cost less than leaving the 240v circuit by itself and adding a separate breaker, hot, and neutral for the 120v device.

Why is the scenario described in my second paragraph uncommon in practice? Are there safety or electrical code concerns that I am unaware of?

Thanks!


texts: How do I fix a Well Pump that is on Constantly?

texts: Recently my well pump started running 24/7.  What might be wrong, and what are the steps I would take to fix the issue?


texts:
The question: How can I loosen a stuck (limed-up) plumbing valve?

The full story: Am beginning a bathroom remodel, which will be a full gut job, of a bathroom that hasn’t been touched since the 1950s. I went to shut off the plumbing valves before demolition. The toilet shut-off was stiff but I was able to turn it off. But the hot and cold water shut-offs inside the vanity were stuck tight. An Internet search suggested tapping the handles with a hammer and using a heat gun to loosen them. Neither worked. From what I read online, you’re supposed to turn your plumbing valves a few times a year to keep them from becoming limed up but no one did that in this old (1942) house and my guess is they haven’t been touched in decades.

Finally, I tried something that I’ve seen as a way to clean a limed-up shower head without taking it off. I poured an inch of white vinegar into a plastic sandwich bag, then put the bag around the valve and sealed it with a rubber band. I didn’t really believe it was going to work so I only did the cold water valve. I would have liked to have immersed the whole works in vinegar but couldn’t because the valve assembly is horizontal to the ground and so the vinegar falls to the bottom of the bag. But every few days I “squished” the bag to force the vinegar up around the valve handle and with the bag sealed with a rubber band I hoped to create a vinegar “humidity” inside the bag.

I left it a week and, I’ll be darned, after a week I was actually able to turn the handle -- grudgingly at first but then it loosened up and I was able to shut off the cold water. So then I did the same thing with the hot water valve. But after two weeks, it still wouldn’t budge. So I decided I needed to use something stronger and did the same thing again with CLR instead of vinegar. But after another week, it’s still stuck. The oval valve handle is now deformed from me trying to turn it with a pipe wrench, as you can see in the photo. I don’t care -- it’s all tearout but I’m afraid to put too much force into it for fear I’ll break the fitting and then I’ll have a different kind of problem in the form of a massive water leak.

Does anyone have a suggestion? If I use a screwdriver on the screw in the center of the valve handle and take the handle off will I be better able to force some kind of limescale remover into where it will do some good? Or will that lead to leakage? I’m getting ready to throw in the towel on this one and call a plumber. But I’ve got to tell you, while I have a lot of respect for folks who work the skilled trades, it really grinds my gears to have to call a plumber for something so trivial.


texts: Why is my furnace filter alarmingly clean?

texts:
I have central air and heat at my appartment I moved into about 6 months ago. Today I decided it was probably long past time to figure out how to change filters in the furnace so I poke around until I find the slot where the filter is.

However, when I pull it out, it looks like it was installed yesterday. It's perfectly clean, doesn't have a speck of dust on it. I've been using it for the past six months so I highly doubt it should look this way.

It's a really cheap fiberglass filter (Ace hardware brand), could it be defective? Could the landlord have placed it in the furnace incorrectly? Could something be wrong with the furnace? Or is this expected?

My last apartment had a permanent filter that had to be pulled out and washed every couple weeks or else it got filthy. Please help me figure out what's going on here.


texts:
The bottom portion of my door jamb/frame to a bedroom was rotting, so in a pinch I remove the rotting portion (because of the terrible smell, and my kids were starting to pull at it). How can I fix this portion without replacing the entire frame on this side?

Here are some pictures of the incident:

That bottom 2x4 is dry, it's just discolored from the water.


texts: Shower makes loud squealing noise at lower settings

texts: I have an older three knob shower that make a ridiculously loud squealing noise along its pipes all the way down to the basement. It outputs water at a quite a high pressure and whenever I try to lower the hot/cold settings it starts squealing. Its more apparent on the hot knob so I have to leave it at high-max which ends up quickly depleting the hot water heater tank. Any suggestions on how to mitigate this?


texts: Why do most home automation products only control incandescent light bulbs?

texts: I have a new bare apartment due soon to work with. It's my first time investigating home automation but all I come up with are home automation products for incandescent lighting. Yet all my rooms have main fluorescent lights. Do I just have bad luck and somehow googled only incandescent light home automation? Or is this how the current home automation industry is?


texts: 4x100 meter base to 2x200 without changing meter base?

texts: We have a multi apartment building (4 independent services 400 amp from pole) with meter socket 1mp4124rrl. We want to convert to 2x200 amp services. Will we have to install a new 2 socket meter base to accommodate this or can we do with existing


texts: How to seal between sill plate and foundation wall with wide gap?

texts:
Here is a picture of the top of my uninsulated basement wall.  The foundation is poured and from early 1970s.  For orientation to the photo: the white in the lower left corner is the vertical face of the wall.  The horizontal board is the sill plate.  Attached to the sill plate is some mortar. In this photo it has separated from the top of the wall.  (Edit: the picture happens to be in a location directly above a basement window, and the mortar has separated from the frame above the window.  However, there are places along this wall where the mortar has indeed separated by a fraction of an inch from the poured foundation wall.  An eighth to as much as a quarter of an inch, except above windows where it's more like 1/2")

I am in the process of insulating the rim joists.  I'm using rigid foam board instead of spray foam, and I'm using caulk instead of Great Stuff / expanding spray foam.  As part of the job I am trying to seal the gap between the sill plate and the foundation wall.  In the places where the mortar has not separated from the wall, it's easy enough to just run caulk along between the mortar and the sill plate.  However, where it has separated, I need a better solution.  How can I do that?

If the gap between the sill plate and the wall was a little smaller, I could just run caulk in it.  However, since it's maybe 1/2 an inch, would it be better to shove a narrow strip of wood into the insulation to give the caulk something to adhere to?  Or I could cut a narrow strip of wood (say, 1" by 1/4") and staple that to the front of the sill plate in a fashion that covers up the insulation gap and then caulk along where that strip meets the foundation wall and also where it meets the sill plate.

Is there a better option you'd recommend?

That's my main question, but here are another couple of questions if you have interest or time.

Below is a stretch of wall where I removed the mortar that had separated from the top of the wall.  You can see that the mortar on the right side of the photo has not separated from the top of the foundation wall.  What the heck is the purpose of the nail that is sticking into the sill plate?  It was buried in the mortar that I removed.  You can see the head of another nail in the mortar in the image above.  Seems weird to me...though I have never done this type of work.

What is the yellow insulation that is underneath the sill plate called?  Why is the gap so tall?  I would expect the sill plate to be basically right on top of the foundation wall with only a tiny gap.

And what is the purpose of the mortar along the top of the wall in the first place?  Is it basically an attempt to stop air infiltration?

Edit: as follow-up to a comment I made, here's a picture of an anchor bolt in the sill plate.


texts: Is an exhaust fan over a gas range required?

texts: Are we required to have one in a standard kitchen with a gas range in a residential home? The big question is not how many CFM or ducted or not, just whether there is a requirement in the building codes. I live in New Jersey, US.


texts: Can I Install a Sub-Panel from an Existing NEMA 5-50 Plug?

texts:
I have a NEMA 5-50 outlet wired from my main panel all the way down to where I am installing a garage. It was put in by the previous owner for a welder I believe. NEMA 5-50 is quite unique and hard to find but is 125V 50amp outlet.
If I buy a NEMA 5-50 plug, could I simply wire that into a sub panel to split out multiple 120V outlets into the garage? Is there a better/easier way than installing a subpanel?
I would like to avoid having to run another 100 feet of line down to the area.
Thanks for the help!


texts: I removed all four corner screws from my shower door in order to adjust sag. Unfortunately whatever is inside the door pulled away from the holes and now I can no longer reinstall the screws that I removed. Anyway that I can fix this?


texts:
Just moved into our new rented apartment and having trouble keeping the water from dripping out the bath tub area.

the side of the shower curtain that is closer to the shower head is okay as we have secured it with a shower curtain clip. The side opposite has a ledge that extends beyond the end of the tub. The water that drips and splashes from the side flows down to the opposite side of the tub and onto the ledge and then drips on to the floor. Unfortunately, The shower curtain is not long enough to stretch this far out to be clipped on the other end too. The only way I feel I can prevent water from flowing down and eventually dripping to the floor is if we created a slant (incline) to prevent the water from flowing down like it does now. But as mentioned before, we live in a rented apartment and can not make any structural changes to the bathroom. Any advise would be much appreciated. Thank you very much in advance!


texts:
My basement is currently completely unfinished. Having gone through my first winter in the home (Alberta, Canada), the floor is obviously quite cold!
As a cost effective way to keep the cold in the basement, I was thinking of using something like RockWool Safe'N'Sound in the ceiling, as I will eventually be finishing the basement into a theatre room, bedroom, bathroom, etc. and will want the sound-proofing anyway. However, as this product does not officially have an R-value, can I assume it would still be effective at separating the cold basement from the warm upstairs living area?
I do not intend to insulate the basement walls probably until the summer of 2022 (when I intend to frame and do electrical etc.).


texts: Drilling holes to install shelves and came across this material. Is it Asbestos?

texts: I live in the UK and I am installing some shelves in the cupboard under the stairs and I'm wondering if the material I'm drilling into is dangerous. It is the Party Wall between two houses.


texts: Wiring a ceiling light fixture after discovering it was tripping a circuit

texts:
One of my circuits has been tripping for the last few weeks. I troubleshot all of the outlets and switches. I started working on my ceiling light and found a discolored wire. White wire with black electrical tape wrapped all around it but it had some brown discoloration. The white colored sheath was also split going all the way up with some tarnish around the copper wire. Not good I believe. I split everything up and attempted to reset the breaker, which held. I suspect that this is the problem.
But I'm having some trouble rewiring it. There are 4 two-wire in the junction box. I'm assuming it's source, two branches, and a switch loop but I'm not sure.
Can you guys make any sense of the box and advise on how complete the wiring? The discoloration in the  damaged wire in the picture below is from adhesive from black tape being wrapped around it.


texts: Hanger or recommendations for steel hanger for deck beam

texts:
I am building a deck.  One of the beams (beam 1 in sketch) is a 20' x 5-1/4" PSL beam.  The beam is sitting on a 6x6 concrete post with a carport post saddle on one side.  My plan is then to mount two steel L brackets with threaded bar nutted and epoxied into a 8" concrete wall of the house.  I'd place one at mid span and one at the other end.
The beam will sit 1" from the concrete wall.  I'd like to bolt the L to the concrete and then lag screw from the bottom of the L up into the beam.  Is there existing hardware that would work for this or do I just need to get something made?  If I do get something made what thickness should I go for?  I was thinking 1/4" HDG 6"H x 6.25" shelf for the legs and maybe 6" for the width.
I don't want to do posts and more footings and I think this approach is better than bolting the PSL through a 1" piece of ply and directly to the concrete.  If the beam ever rots and it is just attached to the two Ls it would be quite easy to replace.  If it is bolted to the concrete everywhere I think it will be quite a bit more challenging.  I also think that drill all the holes and bolting the beam would be more work than just mounting the two steel Ls.
Thanks for reading !


texts: What is the code approved way to cut and patch fire rated drywall hung on the ceiling of a basement?

texts:
My new house is still under construction, and for code reasons the builder is required to hang fire rated drywall on the ceiling of the basement.

I am sure the situation will arise eventually where I will need access to wire or plumbing runs behind this, and to do this I will need to cut the drywall.

Are there are any restrictions or things to know about according to national US residential building codes regarding the proper repair of fire rated drywall?

EDIT:

In case you were curious, the reason this fire board is code required is because the house wasn't built with typical dimensional lumber for floor joists.  Instead they use these questionable looking Engineered I Joists

Because it is nothing but OSB in the middle, they don't quite as well in the event of a fire as dimensional lumber would.  This is why the fire rated drywall is required.


texts: What do the "N" and "T" labels mean on junction box cable clamps?

texts:
This is a typical old-work junction box with integral NM cable clamps. They are each labeled with a tiny "N".

I had assumed this stood for NM and didn't give the labels a second thought. But then I removed this junction box from 1955:

Now the top clamps are all unlabeled and the bottom clamps alternate between "N" and "T". There is no perceptible difference between the "N" and "T" clamps except, when this particular box was installed, only the knockouts for the "N" clamps were used.

What do "N" and "T" stand for?


texts: Need help replacing 2 switches, fan + light

texts:
I need some help.
I want to replace the 2 old  switches, fan + light, by 2 Leviton decora 1 way switches.
I am confused by the wires (see attached pics), especially by the black one that goes from one switch to the other, like a loop. Also I do not see any green/ground wire. The Leviton switch has a spot for that, I guess I should use.
How to connect the wires properly?
Please help.
Thanks in advance for a reply.


texts: How can I stop bulbs from buzzing when dimmed?

texts:
I've got some hanging lights with "Fat Albert" bulbs that are plugged into a dimmer switch.  When they're dimmed to certain levels, the bulbs make a soft buzzing sound.  The buzz is amplified and directed straight down because of the shape of the shade.  It's quite annoying if you're under them!

Here's a photo / blog post about these lights:
http://lukecyca.com/2010/factory-lights.html

Why do the bulbs buzz when dimmed?  Are there other bulbs that don't buzz when they're dimmed?


texts: Suggested underlayment or subfloor for modern plank flooring?

texts:
It seems laminate plank or vinyl plank flooring is becoming overly popular. Ranging from $1.50 a square foot up to over $6 a square foot it sure is a wide range. I'm seeing the higher end floors come with padding on the bottom already glued by the factory. They claim no padded underlayment is needed that way. But in new construction the typical subfloor is just 3/4" OSB.

I don't see the osb with cracks and defects being a good subfloor choice.  Would simply using 1/4" 4' x 8' sheets of underlayment be a sufficient base for these new plank floors? I assume less detail would be needed such as not needing to putty the seams and staple holes in the underlayment.  I like that it would raise the plank more to be level with any carpet or tile transitions. But I'm wondering what you guys have used for a solid base layer before installing these floating snap and lock laminate or vinyl planks?


texts: Can rigid foam board have an air space between it and the studs. Basement wall

texts:
I finishing a part of my basement and I want to put rigid insulation>studs>batt insulation in stud bay>drywall.

I have a wall that has copper pipes, pvc pipes, and gas pipes flush to the concrete wall. There is also a main clean out on the floor that's about 2 inches away from the concrete wall.

I'm thinking about moving the pipes off the concrete and putting rigid insulation on the wall. Then frame my wall in front of the main clean out.

Is it okay to have an air gap of about 4in from the rigid insulation to the studs? Also is there a better way to insulate this wall because it requires moving a lot pipes.


texts: Is it safe to discharge a water softener into a saltwater swimming pool?

texts: I want to use my water softener's recharge water to fill my pool instead of having it going to the drain. My pool is also a salt water pool.


texts: I've been looking into getting a new jigsaw and I've noticed that there are two grip types, barrel and D grip. I've looked around and I don't see any good explanation about the differences. Are there any actual advantages of one other the other or is it merely personal preference?


texts:
the seller of the house I purchased removed the above ground pool, there is a 17 by 26 feet opening that is about 6 inches deep. 221 ft3.  There is a thin layer of packed down sand which has smaller rocks around the edge.  I'm interested in filling and converting the hole to a patio.

What material would I need to fill the whole as a solid base.


texts:
I have a switch that’s supplied with electric but can’t find out what is it for
How can I find out what is that switch for?


texts: Can I use sealer over recycled asphalt to retain it?

texts: I have a section of recycled asphalt chips to the left of my concrete driveway, which we use parking a second car. The asphalt rocks leave a mess in the yard and in the driveway. Could I use asphalt sealer over top the gravel to form a more solid surface? I've thought about using some landscape edging to keep some of the gravel in place, but that may not be a permanent solution. Any ideas or suggestions is appreciated. Thanks!


texts:
I am trying to find a way of getting my kitchen to be fully handleless, but the more i research and try different thing the more it gets tricky. How can i make a push to open drawers on Ikea maximera kitchen units?

Example drawer:

I know that Blum used to make kitchen hardware for IKEA but i don't think this is the case any longer. Also i am running Gloss white, so i can't use VOXTORP fronts as they are NOT in gloss white...

Any thoughts ?


texts: Gas pipe trap nipple relative to flow direction

texts:
I know that a natural gas black pipe requires a 3-4" trap nipple below the turn when the flow in the pipe changes direction from vertical to horizontal, in order to catch possible particles coming from the supply.
Is such a trap required in the opposite case, when the pipe turns from horizontal to vertical? Can I just use an elbow going up or do I still need a tee with a short nipple that the flow would not be going into but particles may still get trapped in thanks to gravity?


texts: Is it acceptable to install a pool tile mosaic without any thinset or mortar?

texts:
Is it acceptable practice to install pool tile mosaic without any thinset or mortar securing the mosaic tiles to the pool surface??  My pool contractor did this with a large turtle mosaic and now the tiles are falling out.

He tells me it is common practice to just secure tile mosaics with just the grout and plaster surrounding it - and no thinset/adhesive between the tiles and pool surface.  I heard from someone that ANSI A118.5.2.4 discusses specific installation of ceramic tile mosaics in wet environments (pools, spas, showers), but I have not been able to find the exact text of the standard. Searches keep landing on product info. Can anyone copy-post or lead me to the relevant text?

Likely the pool will have to be drained and the entire 3' by 4' mosaic torn out and replaced (or leave a turtle shaped patch...?)  That sounds like it could be expensive. IF the contractor was not following acceptable standards of tile installation, he needs to step up and fix this.  Right now, he does not sound like he is ready to do that.

Can anyone provide insight as how to handle this.  Any links to resources (such as ANSI, or local standards) would be fantastic. We live in California, Santa Clare County.
Thanks, Kevin


texts: How to fill the joint between tiles and cabinets in a kitchen backsplash?

texts:
We have a tiled kitchen backsplash, see photo below.

In between the tiles, there's grout.

I wonder what choice of materials I can use (if it's different from the
grout I use between the tiles) in the joints between the tiles and cabinets
(marked red in the photo).  Please suggest materials and discuss their pros and cons.

I want a white material to match the grout color of white.  Also, whatever material I use should be moisture and heat-resistant due to the backsplash area.

Thank you.


texts: What do you think this roof construction is?

texts: What roof construction is used to get the curved hips?


texts:
Could someone help me match the grout that appears in the picture. I realize that many grouts have similar tones and that the picture is probably not accurate enough for identification but maybe you'll be able to give me some pointers.

I've gone to several tile shops in my area, and the closest I found was "River Rock" by Laticrete (https://laticrete.com/support-and-downloads/marketing-support/grout-selector) - however, my grout has a little bit of peach in it which I think comes through in the picture. I'm guessing this grout is about 9 years old.

Thank you very much in advance.


texts: Small leak has appeared in a PVC drain pipe joint, how to seal?

texts: I have attached a picture of the joint, and circled the bit that is leaking, a small hole. What is the best way to go about sealing this up and fixing it? Thanks.


texts: Self Leveling Compound for Floating LVP vs No Leveler and Glue Down LVP

texts:
I've read so, so many things online about how self-leveling compound is good and then continued to read another 5 minutes and read how it is terrible.
I have wood subfloors and am hoping to put down luxury vinyl plank. Originally, I wanted to put in a "noise dampening" underlayment and a floating vinyl plank floor.  Problem is, like everybody else's floors, they are not perfectly flat.  There are undulations here and there that exceed the flooring manufacturer's "flatness" constraints.  The constraints are flatness within 1/8" over 6' and 3/1" over 10.'
My question is:  Would it just be better to install glue down planks and avoid the whole issue of having to "level" the floor?  Or, would it be worth using a product like ARDEX Liquid Backer Board to level the undulations and thus be able to install an underlayment and floating vinyl plank floor?
The concerns I have are whether the self-leveling compound is just going to crack over time and cause issues I will not want to deal with and getting the mixture just perfectly right.
Thanks in advance for your advice!


texts: Why have all my LED bulbs stopped working at once?

texts: Prior to today.I had all LED bulbs,everything was working fine.Today none of the LED bulbs were working.I tried changing LEDs with an ordinary lightbulb, and everything worked. I noticed them all to be not as bright as they normally are.Even the light in the fridge looked somewhat dim.


texts: How to solve bad smell with p-trap near exit

texts:
I have a bad smell in the bathroom, sewer like smell.
Just moved in, but pretty sure that the bath, the separate shower and washbasin all lead into the same pipe, which descends into the cellar and joins the waste pipe from kitchen and then I presume the WC.

There's no p-trap under the wash basin just a small trap for waste but without resting water blocking gas. I presume same for shower, for the bath, don't have easy access so can't see.

I do have good access in the cellar so I wondered if it's possible to put a p-trap there as a catch all for any backup gases but that doesn't appear to be given on the net asa solution so asked myself why not?

Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: Necessary to tape ceiling-wall joint if installing moulding?

texts:
Just got my drywall up in a room that I will be installing crown moulding in.
Is taping the joints where the ceiling meets the wall necessary if its just going to be covered up? I've heard mixed answers, some including just using a single layer of firetape.


texts:
If a double glazed unit has one of its glass panes shattered can the unit be repaired?

Or does the whole thing need to go in the trash?

I know that a double glazed unit is sealed with inert gas inside etc., so my question is whether the single glass that is still in good condition can be reused to make another unit.


texts: How can I make this tile floor smoother?

texts:
I just had a shower built using 12x12 sheets of 2x2 mosaic tiles. The edges of the tile have hard edges. I didn't notice this until a couple of days after the install.  What can be done to make these grout line more flush or possibly round the edges of the tile?  I was thinking I could maybe regrout it but have read that the new grout wouldn't bond with the old.

Pictures:


texts: How do I prepare aging cedar siding for staining/painting?

texts:
I have a home with old, somewhat damaged, cedar siding. I believe the siding was put on in the early 90s making it about 20 years old.  On more than one side there are places were you can see the pattern of what must have been some kind of trellis.

I'd like to re stain the siding so that is has a more even color.  What should I do to prepare the surface?


texts:
I'm considering replacing an outdoor lighting fixture with an LED motion-sensitive fixture, but I'm not sure how to safely do the wiring.

The location is protected (under a porch) but still needs to be weatherproof. Here's the existing fixture and mount:

The obvious replacement would be another lamp that included its own box cover, so that its wiring would be covered and protected. But, the fixture I like doesn't include such a cover:

You can see it's meant to be screwed into the wall, but doesn't cover anything. The power cable ends with bare wires which are meant to be wire-nutted to the supply wiring, probably inside a junction box. But, how do I get the wire safely into the junction box while keeping things weatherproof?

One option would be to replace the lamp's power cable with one ending in a grounded plug, and install a weatherproof outlet box. But that's ugly and complex.

Are there weatherproof junction box covers that include provisions for sealed entry of cables?


texts: Danger of Christmas lights on aluminum trees

texts:
Back in the day, aluminum Christmas trees were sold with color wheels and included literature warning you not to string lights on he tree.
Fast forwarded to today, I have an old aluminum tree and am still warned by people not to put lights on it.
I can understand that back in the day, lights burned hotter than deep fried hell and were nowhere as safe as modern day LEDs.
Is there any reason to think that I could not safely light up my aluminum tree?
I feel like a string of LEDs in good repair would not pose any real risk.
Thoughts?


texts: How can I prevent this ice build up on my driveway/walkway?

texts:
My house faces North. I have down spouts on all four corners of the house.

My challenge is that in the late winter/ early spring, the sun melts the snow off the roof and comes down the downspouts.

On the South side of the house, it's warm enough that the water flows away, and when it doesn't there's no one walking there.

On the North side of the house, it's in the shade. When the water hits the ground/concrete of the driveway/walkway it basically freezes instantly. The North East corner is OK, because no one walks there. However, on the North west corner (where the * is in the picture below), we get a huge buildup of ice there.

The treatment so far has been mechanical (chipping ice away) and chemical (salt). As it's summer now, it's a good opportunity to fix it permanently.

I've had straight extensions on that downspout to extend the flow somewhere better, but:

It tends to get stepped on by letter/paper carriers
I can't angle it enough to make a real difference without directing it onto the neighbour's walkway
If there's any buildup of snow at the bottom, it tends to back the water up into the extension and turns it into an ice log.

I've thought about adding a catch basin or running it down the yard underground in a weeping-tile pipe. But on both cases, I'm afraid of it also becoming a block of ice as well.

Any thoughts on away around this?


texts: There appears to be no ground - what do I do?

texts:
Hi!

Trying to change a light switch in my house. I am Chicago within city limits.

House is pretty old...it was “gut rehabbed” in the 80s but that doesn’t really mean anything. Actual building been here since 50s/60s.

Anyway, there doesn’t appear to be any ground wire. So what do I do with the ground wire I have on the switch I’ve bought. And is this lack of ground a huge issue that I need to get resolved? I’ve lived here over a year and get occasional shock in basement (but only during winter so put this down to static given it’s the dryest part of house). I attached some pictures to show what I’m dealing with.


texts:
I have an old pilot light switch on my fireplace wall. Over the years our council house has many joblot repairs. One of which is our gas fire being replaced by an electric fire & the gas boiler in the cupboard behind the fire being moved to a bedroom cupboard so I assume the pilot light no longer works.
During decorating I decided to take out the switch but on removing the cover I found lots of connected wires embedded deep in the wall. I'm 90% sure its safe to remove because years ago the council installed a new thermostat without taking the old one out, but the lights on it wouldn't work, so I assumed it was obsolete & removed it myself.
The pilot light switch has no light to indicate it's obsolete, it may still be connected to something deep in the walls & of course, its electrical so I don't wanna mess with it without being sure. Any advice?


texts:
I'd like to install a ceiling fan and there's a ceiling joist in the way causing me to be about 2" off-center. The ceiling is about 8'x10' and the recessed lights that the fan would be centered between are 75" apart, so about 35" away from the fan's canopy.

Would 2" be noticeably off-center? If so, what's a possible workaround?


texts: Rheem RGDG unit turns on w/thermostat off, blower come on and inducer motor switches off and on

texts:
I've having a problem with my rheem model rgdg-10nbrjr

The air conditioning works, turning it on at night it blows cold air and the house indeed gets cold.

However the furnace unit itself constantly turns on in this sequence with the thermostat off (I've even removed it and it still happens):
1. Blower turns on
2. Inducer motor starts running for a number of seconds then I hear a click and it spins down, a few seconds later starts to spin again, repeat.
You can hear it here in the video around 20 seconds here:

Sometimes it runs for a few minutes, then shuts off only to start the cycle again. At times the inducer motor will cycle every second or two.

I've tested the fan limit switch and it shows closed, I have continuity across it.

It's about 73 degrees in our house (ambient), not hot.

Any thoughts? If this happens to be the control board, any tips on finding the right one? I'm having a bit of difficulty looking it up. It seems there are generic boards, unsure if they line up, any issues using them (like flame sensors as this is an old unit), etc.


texts: Can I connect a 70 amp sub panel to a 40 amp 240 breakers?

texts: Can I connect it to a sub panel that is rated for 70 amp? I just want to put 3 or 4 20 amp 120 breakers in. Is it safe to do it?


texts: What can we do about a separate drain from our washing machine to our septic system that has failed?

texts:
Our contractor put our washing machine drain in our yard separate from our septic system. However, it is plugged up and failed. We need a solution without putting in a whole new drain.

What can we do?


texts: I need to replace the tilt latch on this window but can't find any indication of the name of the company that manufactured the window.  I tried  a local window shop and they did not recognize it, plus they also told me the width between the two mounting screw holes is critical to finding a generic replacement part.  I'd like to start with the manufacturer if possible.  The only indication I can find is a "world" marker on the frame.  Does anyone recognize this manufacturer?


texts: How to repair garage floor concrete damage near apron?

texts:
I have a concrete garage floor that is cracking near the apron entry at the overhead door.  I'd like to understand how to repair this problem and if it's a project I can handle as a DIY-savvy person with zero concrete experience.

The garage floor is actually poured on top of a precast slab underneath (plastic sheeting between) which is the ceiling of a room below.  That sub-slab ends right where the full-length crack is shown which explains why it had cracked there.  This floor is a gravel/fiber concrete mix at a thickness of approximately 1.5 inches (at the cracking, anyway).  The width of the crack is generally 1/2-inch with a few wider areas.  The depth of the crack varies from 1.5 to 4+ inches because the substrate is eroding.

There are also 3 larger chunks of concrete (shown in the center of the picture) that have cracked all the way around and thus are lose...and I imagine should be removed and replaced with new material.

How should this be repaired and with what materials?

I've received a few suggestions from the home store but I couldn't tell if they really knew their stuff or just wanted me to buy stuff:

Use quick-setting cement plus bonding adhesive to repair the large voids from the broken/missing concrete.
Fill the crack to a reasonable depth with sand/backer rod and then apply a self-leveling caulking or concrete crack filler.
Or, use non-shrink precision grout in the crack.


texts: Are two wires coming out of the same circuit breaker safe?

texts: There are two wires coming out of two of my circuit breakers in my electrical panel.  I am thinking the previous owner of the house stuck these two wires in there because the panel was full and they didn't want to replace the panel. I am not sure though, all the searches I have done on line haven't returned any info on why they would do something like this.


texts: rigid black 4" pipe underground about 15" impact resistant?

texts: I have a rigid underground drain pipe buried about 18" .  Top of pipe may be only 14" under the dirt.  A heavy bucket truck drove over it in winter (Wisconsin weather for January) to trim trees.  Truck has 4 rear wheels and two front.  If one side of the double rear wheel show signs of 2.5" dip in the lawn after the thaw is it likely the pipe cracked?


texts: HVAC supply and return preferred locations

texts: Is there a reason some HVAC supply and returns are low to the floor in the wall ( or in the floor ) vs in the ceiling other than keeping the ceiling clean looking? I've heard different opinions.


texts: What screw size can I go to when re-tapping an M6 bore?

texts:
I purchased a used jointer. The fence should've been held by two M6x20 bolts (according to the manual) to the body of the jointer. When I went to attach the fence, I noticed two wood screws and the holes were filled with some unknown material. After I cleaned out the two holes I noticed they were stripped, that explained the missing M6 screws.
To which size can I re-tap the holes? I think M8 is perhaps too big, so what about SAE? Is there something close to M6 size?
By the way, I'm confused by the tap sizes, especially the SAE, UNC, UNF, etc.  Besides that, how do I choose the right drill bit size for the new tap? I've spent a whole day trying to figure it out - I'm now frustrated.


texts: My "smart toaster" recently started tripping the circuit/fuse... Advice please

texts:
I have a Breville 'smart toaster oven' which I've used for 7 years in two different apartments with no problems. As of the last month, the toaster oven will randomly trip the circuit (that is, in the kitchen wall outlet, which can be reset by clicking in the button in the outlet itself; does not trip the fuse in the house-wide breaker, apologies if incorrect terminology). I tried multiple outlets, same issue. Sometimes it happens after 2 seconds, sometimes after 1 minute.

Does anyone have any advice here? It is definitely out of warranty, and I know that parts+labor from a professional shop will be more than a new one (I called a couple) so.. can I do any kind of repair myself that wouldn't be too tough, or is it just time to give in and buy a new one? I hate to buy new when I can fix so would appreciate any leads, especially if it wouldn't be too expensive. Thank you in advance.

EDIT: Based on answeres here I have realized the outlet is GFCI.  I just tried plugging the toaster into a non GFCI outlet, it works! Is this: A) OK for short term as I order/research a new toaster and B) possibly OK for the long term rather than replacing a toaster?


texts: How to repair wall next to external door?

texts:
I did some repairs a while back, replacing a damaged door jamb.

That repair left some damage to the neighboring wall, as shown in the photos below.
I am getting a new pre-hung door soon, and want to repair the wall before the door is installed. Is this as straightforward as spackle->sand->paint, or is there more involved that I don't know? The wall is plaster by the way.


texts: Remove unused wires from circuit breaker panel

texts:
My house was remodeled and a sub panel installed.
The electrician capped and left three unused 220V (3 wire) circuits in the panel.
That's probably standard practice.
However, I would like to replace a circuit breaker with an AFCI breaker and the unused wires really clutter up the box.  They also use up all of the neutral bar connections.  If I remove the wires (after confirming), can I secure them above the panel....or do I need to have them in a box?
What is he proper way to terminate the wires?


texts: Why is there no heating at all until we use hot water?

texts:
My boyfriend has a combi boiler and he's very confused as to why he has no heating at all through the radiators until he uses hot water.

On the meter it says radiators shouldn't be working but they are. He has the council out but they just keep putting it off. Please can anyone help as it's winter soon and he will need them working without having to run hot water, for our baby's sake.


texts:
I purchased a Hampton Bay remote for our bedroom fan this weekend.  I have it installed and mostly working correctly, but there is one nuisance that still remains.

We have two switches on the wall, one for the light fixture on the fan, and one for the fan itself.  There are 3 AC wires coming from the ceiling.  One went to each of the wires in the fan prior to the remote install.

When I installed the remote, I attempted to wire all 3 blue wires together using one wire nut, when I did this the switch on the wall worked for the light, but the light button on the remote did not work.  If I wire the blue wire from the remote control box to the fan, then the button on the remote works, but the light is then controlled from the switch which used to only control the fan -- it now works as a master switch.

Is there anyway I can wire it such that the switches on the wall each perform their distinct task, and that the button on the remote works?  Or is it simply that when all three were in the nut, that the wire from the control box was not making contact (odd if this is the case as I tried to do that 3 times -- each with the same result).


texts: Where do I caulk on the outside of leaky windows?

texts:
Our house was built in 2016, shortly after moving in we noticed that all of our windows on the main floor leaked. The builder came, did something (I wasn't home), and all but one stopped leaking. It didn't leak often, so like a responsible homeowner, I am just getting to fixing it.
I inspected the leaking window and noticed there were gaps in the caulk between the board trim (see image below) and the window, so I re-caulked all the windows. Recently it rained, and now two windows leak (the one, and an additional one).

In the picture, we have vinyl siding, j-channel, board trim, window. I caulked between the board and the window. I am wondering if it shouldn't be caulked because the water has no were to escape if it gets behind the j-channel. thoughts?

Here is a picture of the water damage if it helps, the water oddly enough leaks on the same corner of all the windows, its always the left bottom corner.
Here are some additional pictures.


texts: Combine Lights on one switch and remove smoke detector from switch

texts:
Experts,

I've got a weird wiring situation in my kitchen (just bought the house).

"A" (a dimmer) in the picture controls both a light (let's call it light "X") and (wait for it) the smoke detector!

"B" has 2 switches. The bottom controls the garbage disposal, the top controls another light (light "Y").

What I'd like to do is have the switch on "B" that controls light "Y" also control light "X". Then I would simply blank out "A" so that power is always going to the smoke detector.

I have confirmed that both "A" and "B" are on the same circuit.

What is your best advice? Thank you!


texts: Orange material in grout lines - need help to identify

texts:
Having recently moved into a new (resale) house, I looked closely at the grout lines on one of the tiled shower floors and noticed many small gaps in the grout lines with an unidentified orange material in the gaps. I've attached a picture.

Obviously this grout is not in good condition and needs to be replaced; however, does anyone know what the orange material in the grout lines is? It appears to be coming from underneath and is raised into the gaps between the tiles, so occupies some of the cavity where the grout would normally go.

Thanks for any suggestions.


texts: Is a 35mm steel square tube frame strong enough to support 100kg without flexing?

texts:
I've not been able to find an electric sit/stand desk that is a size I want so I've designed my own. I'm confident in the electronics side of things but I'm not certain of the strength of the materials. The actuators I'm using have a stroke of 450mm and can push/pull 1500N so they're definitely strong enough but the desktop is 3.2m long with a simple rectangle steel frame made of 35mm square tube with a 2mm thickness. I will have a lot of gear on the desk so I want to be able to puch up to 100kg excluding the desk itself so I have to consider the weight of the materials used. Will this frame be strong enough to handle 50kg-ish in the very center without flexing?

Images of my design can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/TJZlLRk


texts: Baseboard water heat not heating one room; Rest of zone/house is good

texts:
I have a baseboard water heating system set up in three zones. One zone consists of two bedrooms and a bathroom at one end of my house. The thermostat for that zone is in the hallway connecting the rooms.

Yesterday, one of the bedroom radiators stopped getting hot. I'm not sure when it failed, but we noticed it when we turned in for the night. It had been working well (sometimes too well) for years previously. The other two zones work as expected, and the other two rooms in the affected zone work very well too.

There were no changes made to the system at all and I don't find any evidence of leaks anywhere.

The city did shut off our water supply for 6-7 hours yesterday while doing some work in the street. I think that's just a coincidence, but I don't necessarily believe in coincidences.

Could the water being shut off all day somehow allowed air to be introduced into the lines that found it's way to the affected room and "air-locked" the radiator?

It seems to me that the circulation pump is louder today too. It seems to be making a noise like bubbling or flowing water. I don't recall ever really hearing the pump before (but I didn't really listen to it either) Is the "running water sound" normal for a circulation pump? Is it an indication of air in the lines?

I don't know how to bleed the lines of air. I understand the concept, but I don't know where the bleeder valve(s) is/are and, in general, don't quite understand how the system is plumbed. I have no real experience with hot water heating systems.

Does my assessment that there is air in the line going to the affected bedroom seem reasonable, and if so, how can I troubleshoot/fix this problem? What else would cause behavior like this?


texts: Laser detector not compatible with Laser unit?

texts: I have a self-leveling laser that produces a red beam in the range 635-650nm (Magnusson HL360) - it works great, I've not purchased a laser detector unit (DeWalt DE0892) that should detect red laser beam in outdoor conditions (30-50m) from the unit. According to the specification, it detects lasers in the range 630-680nm, however, when testing the detector it does sometimes detect laser and sometimes it does not (more often it does not). I thought that the unit will detect any red laser within its range but this does not seem to be the case?


texts: How far can laser level dots be seen outside in the sun?

texts: I am building an CEB (like adobe) home and would like to buy a laser level to help make sure the top course is level.  There is no roof yet, and this will be outside, and in the sun.  The house is only ~20' x 20', so the furthest the laser will have to travel if we put it in the center is something like 14'.  Will most rotating laser level points be visible at this distance?  I've seen multiple different mw power levels for lasers.  How far is each visible outside in the sun?


texts: I have a 120/240 dryer from Canada, and want to use it in a 240v country.

texts:
The dryer electric driagram identifies  a RED L1 wire, a WHITE LN one, and other Black as L2.
The suplpy cord has a RED, WHITE and BLACK wires and the green ground as well.
How should I connect the wires to have the 240 V from the wall outlet and the 120V trough a 240 to 120 transfo?


texts: What can I do about outlets with no ground and reversed polarity?

texts:
My relative's house is very old (built in 1920s or 1930s) and has several 2-prong outlets with no ground.  The screw in the center is not grounded either.

I would like to be able to use modern equipment (requiring 3-prong outlets) safely.  What should I do?

Edit: Would an isolation transformer help?


texts: Is there a way to trace water pipes through walls?

texts:
I recently purchased my house and I am trying to find my internal valve to turn on my external faucet.

Unfortunately the previous owner put in a bathroom in over where the water line enters the house and it also covers the area where the external faucet enters the house.

I'm about to go making holes in the bathroom's drywall and ceiling to find the valve.

I would like some advice for tracing the water pipe so that I may avoid any obvious pitfalls and any advice for when I cut into the drywall for repairing it afterwards. (or maybe I'm going about this the wrong way)