texts: How do I install a countertop with a large overhang without using a corbel or post?

texts:
(Note: I don't think this is a duplicate. Most questions like this are about supporting an overhang using a kneewall, which is very different than a counter side.)

I am having a new granite countertop installed on an existing kitchen island. The counter is planned to overhang the cabinet at the end of its length (so the short end, ~36" wide) by about 18". The installer told me that it would need support brackets, and recommended that I get metal ones rather than the wooden corbel I have on an existing overhang in my kitchen.

I went to Lowes and asked four different associates - not one had any idea what I was talking about, but one was kind enough to show me the regular L-brackets that they had and sold me the strongest one. (I bought two, since the overhang will be about 36" wide.)

Is this the right thing to use? In this question, the asker was told to use corbels instead of brackets and that those would be fine to install on a cabinet wall. Is my installer incorrect that brackets would be stronger than wooden corbels? The cabinet wall is beadboard, but there seems to be another layer underneath. I have another counter in the kitchen with a smaller (~10") overhang supported by a wooden corbel.

UPDATE:

After a discussion in the comments to @dmoore 's answer, I am wondering if a t-brace (like this) might work without any additional support, since the best option suggested by dmoore might be difficult to implement in my specific case.


texts: how to drill aligned holes in steel pipe?

texts:
I need to accurately drill multiple holes in steel pipe (1.25-2" diameter, 65-100 mil wall thickness, about 10ft long).    I need to drill a half-dozen or so evenly-spaced aligned pairs of holes all the way through the pipe.    So the two holes in each pair need to be diametrically opposite.   And the pairs need to be radially-aligned - I'm not sure how best to describe this: maybe, if a line is drawn through each pair of holes, those lines should all be parallel (to each other).

Is it possible to do this with reasonable accuracy using home tools, or is a machine shop necessary (e.g. a milling machine) ?   How ?

P.S. For background: I want to extend the height of a wood railing (it consists of multiple 2x2 balusters with a 2x6 board at the top).   I plan to do this by screwing 3/8 x 10" hanger bolts into the top of the 2x6.  Then attach the steel pipe to the machine-threaded top of the hanger bolts, with acorn nuts at the top and hex nuts underneath the steel pipe.   This is my solution to: extend height of wooden railing.   Once the pipe is drilled, I can then use it as a jig for drilling the pilot holes in top of the 2x6 (for the tapered-thread end of the hanger bolts).   Perhaps I should consider wooden dowel instead of steel pipe; easier to drill, and cheaper (when I screw up).


texts: Does anyone have any bright ideas for how to open a drawer that has become jammed shut because it has been filled up too much? I've had a look at the underside and can get at the bottom of the drawers but unscrewing the rails etc. is not an option because I can't get at them. Currently my best plan is to try and remove or cut out the hard board base of the drawer which would then need to be replaced. Any better ideas much appreciated.


texts: Can you mix white wall paint and tie dye you use for clothes? I want to paint my walls different colors but the only thing I have is white paint and found some tie dye you use for clothes and it's permanent so I was thinking you could do it. That should work, right?


texts: Is it possible or feasible to build basement walls without anchoring?

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I want to finish my basement. All of the basic protocols I have seen is install a sill plate by anchoring it into the conrete. After that, build a wall and put it on top of the sill plate. Attach to sill plate, voila.

This method seems pretty good, and very easy. However, how can this be done without anchoring to concrete?

My issue is that I have asbestos floor tiles which I am covering over and drilling through the stuff could cause a serious hazard, so I would rather not.


texts: Converting 4 wire supply to 3 wire outlet

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I have a 4 wire supply wire. It has a black, white, red and ground wire. I want to supply a 3 wire outlet.

Do I combine the white and ground wire?


texts: Is this a Federal Pacific electrical panel, and should I replace it?

texts: I was told I might have a Federal Pacific electrical panel, and if so I may need to replace it.  It’s hard to read, but it looks to me like it says Trumbull Electric (see photo).  Is this panel something I need to worry about?  My house was built in the 1950s.


texts: When to recess a lag bolt in lumber, vs. using a lag screw?

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I'm trying to figure out when you should recess a lag bolt in lumber, vs. just using a lag screw?  Does it depend on the type of wood being screwed into?  Hardwood? Softwood? Plywood?

I know you can't just drive a lag screw into fiberboard, but standard lumber can hold a screw, so why are recessed bolts used sometimes?


texts: On the number and shape of my swamp cooler motor cord terminals

texts:
As I understand it, most three prong electrical chords are have a hot wire, ground, and neutral terminals (for extra precautions).  My swamp cooler motor cord has four prongs as shown here:

What is the need for the fourth terminal?  It seems to me that most, if not all, cords for swamp cooler motors have three circular terminals and one flat terminal as shown above.  Why are these terminals shaped as such?  Is there any advantage to having their shapes this way?


texts: How can I fix a garage door motor that runs but doesn't move the chain?

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I have a Craftsman 1/2 HP garage door opener. It's always been a little finicky, but tonight it stopped working. In the middle of going up as tonight, the door halted, leaving a gap between the door and the ground. I got out of the car, squeezed under the door and realized the motor was still running. My wife pushed the door opener a few more times, but the door wouldn't move despite the motor responding. I pulled the release on the door and opened it all the way. I realized parking the car in the garage would be a hassle, since I would have the open the door manually again. So I just closed the garage with the chain disengaged.

The motor will start and stop in response to button pushes like it is supposed to - normally the first push starts it in one direction, the 2nd reverses the direction and the 3rd will stop the motor. However, the chain has completely stopped moving (and by extension, so has the door). This causes the motor to run for an extensive period of time before it seems to timeout and give up. The chain and door connector assembly haven't budged since.

I've not worked on garage doors before, but I have a degree in Computer/Electrical Engineering. I've never studied to be an electrician or anything, so I'm well aware there are a lot of things I don't know about this. But generally speaking, is this the type of thing I could potentially fix myself? Or is it more likely the whole unit is shot and I should just call a repairman up front?

I know I have the manual around here somewhere, I'll keep looking for it and list exact part numbers if I find it.

Update: I popped the sprocket protector off just like in the video form Steven's answer and the chain is still firmly attached. When the motor is running, you can clearly see the shaft and sprocket are not moving at all, not even jerking when starting or stopping, like something had locked up the shaft.


texts: Strengthening ceiling above the garage for additional storage

texts: I need some help. I am trying to figure out the best way to strengthen my garage ceiling to create storage space up above. The problem is the house was built in 1997 with a 2x4 W truss system. The span is 28'. I can see a break in the truss under one of the joint plates. Would sistering 2x4's in one 12' and two 8' sections all glued and screwed be enough to make it safe for storage? I am adding 3/4" plywood as the floor but also elevating the floor with 2x4 laid on their sides going perpendicular to the trusses. I am also adding an attic ladder for access.


texts: Can I caulk a hose connection for a pool vacuum pump?

texts:
A week ago, I managed to shut off the inflow valve to my Polaris vacuum pump but I forgot to turn off the pump itself. Pressure built and the the hose (flex hose rather than rigid PVC) permanently formed a balloon and water started leaking from the connection.

I sawed off the ballooned area of the hose and reconnected (there was just enough length) - but there was some minor leaking around the area where the hose meets the plastic connectors.

Can I caulk that and expect the caulking to hold up to the water pressure?


texts: Is my brand new central air conditioner short cycling?

texts: I just had a brand new air conditioner 5 ton condenser, coil and furnace installed in a 3,300sqft colonial in Connecticut. It’s 1am right now, 75 degrees outside with 97% humidity. I have my upstairs (which for a colonial is always hottest part of the house) thermostat set to 68 degrees. The AC turns on for about 7 minutes, shuts off for another 7 minutes and turns back on. Could it be short cycling? I’ve read it’s usually normal for an AC to stay running between 10-20 minutes?


texts:
I have a 1950s home with a flat roof. The drainage is not great, so we use a water pump (currently a Wayne WaterBug Multi-Flo) with a hose for the output, to pump the water off the roof and away from the house.
The great thing about the WaterBug Multi-Flo is that it can pump down to 1/16" of water; and it can be activated with only 3/8" of water. Our roof ponds mostly in one place, and we don't like to have much standing water up there, so the 3/8" -> 1/16" is ideal.
We have two difficulties: automatically turning it off, and automatically turning it on.
We've had a couple pumps wear out from running dry, when we weren't able to manually turn it off in good time. And if we ever go out of town it would be really nice to know that it can turn itself on when appropriate, as well.
There are numerous products on the market that do have auto on/off capabilities, but everything we've found won't activate until around 1-3/4" of water or more; we'd really like something that will activate with 1/2" of water. (For example the Wayne WaterBug Auto pumps from 1-5/8" down to 1/2")
I see there is a new "WaterBug Glow" unit that has an auto-off capability. However it appears to work through thermal detection -- it takes 10 minutes to switch off at 70 degrees F, and longer for lower temperatures. In the Seattle area where we live, it's typically 40-45 degrees when raining in the winter, so I'm concerned about burning out the motor waiting for the auto-off to engage in the low temperature.
What I'd really like to find is: some kind of water flow meter, that can be configured to cut power when the flow falls below a certain amount. Would some kind of leak detection work? I'm not sure. I definitely don't want an alarm though. And then how to reactivate? I don't want to have to climb up on the roof to reactivate it.
If the WaterBug Glow works reasonably well for auto-off, perhaps I can put the thing on a timer, so it turns itself off and on once every 6 hours?
Interested to hear any ideas -- maybe there's a perfect pump sump pump out there with the features we need? Or some other devices I can pair together and configure for a good solution? We've spent quite a bit of time researching and are currently stumped. Thanks for your help!
EDIT: yes, the correct solution will be to redesign + replace our roof and drain system. A flat roof could work with good drainage but the drains are not good-- flooding water right next to the house rather than some ways away. And they are very difficult to keep unclogged. So we are looking for a short-term solution to serve us until we can afford to replace the roof and drainage system.


texts: If I need to level a slab with a 2' sag in the center, should I pour regular concrete up to 1" before using a leveling compound?


texts: Will using concrete anchors in wall studs cause problems?

texts:
While installing a wall mount for a 48" TV, I realized I made a mistake. I drilled a ⅜ pilot hole in the wall stud and then installed the anchors provided with the mount that the lag bolts would be secured in. Going back to the instructions I realized my mistake, having used the directions for the "Concrete wall installation" instead of the "Wood stud wall installation."

The Concrete wall installation instructions say not to use these for a wood stud installation, but rather to use a 7/32 pilot with the provided lag bolt.

As far as I can tell, the only difference between the concrete and wood stud installation is that the concrete uses the provided anchors, and both use the same 4 lag bolts.

So do I need to fill these holes with wood filler or something and start over, or will the concrete anchors make a difference at all?


texts:
I need to have attic access in my bonus room. The space above the ceiling is very tight, but there is inadequate insulation and I need to add support for a projector. I will be crawling around up there as I'm 6' tall.

I've been nervous about cutting a hole but it is time. I wanted to get opinions on where to put the access.

First Choice: this is the first I chose because it's right when entering the room and will be hidden when enjoying a movie on the other side of the room. This is right in front of the stairs on the other side of the light in the picture.
Second Choice: I noticed this after measuring for the first choice; it's much more hidden. It might be less headroom. The third picture is the outside area.

First Choice

Second Choice

Second Choice - Outside

View of Attic Space


texts: How can I cap off an old, partially-exposed cast iron pipe when a qwik cap won't do?

texts:
I'm trying to cap off an old cast iron pipe that's leaking in our basement.

The pipe used to be connected to a downspout on the outside and to the sewer on the inside, but it's now disconnected on both sides.  The downspout was removed, the outdoor side was capped off with some sort of sticky material, and the basement side was left open into the basement.

Here's a picture of the outdoor side:

I'd normally use a worm-drive rubber cap, as shown below, but only half of the pipe is accessible (the rest is hidden beneath the siding, as you can see on the first picture):

What options do I have to seal off a partly-exposed 4.7in-wide pipe? I'd rather not use concrete, as the outdoor side opens into my neighbors' garden, and I don't want to make a mess there.


texts:
I have this Siemens electrical panel and I am looking for a way to install a lock on the panel door so that it can only be opened with a key. Any suggestions? Are there latches that already have built in locks?

(click to enlarge pictures)


texts: How to deal with large 4-gang switch boxes and the need to wire together numerous wires (>4)?

texts:
I'm looking to upgrade my light switches to smart switches, which I've been doing mostly successfully around my house. However there are a number of large 4-gang switch boxes and I'm not sure what to do about the many wires which are brought together in a wire nut. In one switch there are 5 NM power lines coming in, and the neutrals are brought together. But there are 5 wires, isn't the maximum for a red wire nut 4 wires at 12 gauge?
Do I need to daisy chain together a couple of wire nuts in order to bring these wires together safely?


texts: Building water tight box from plywood and HDPE

texts:
Origin

I built a box out of 0.3" (8mm) plywood sheets framed by 3" (75mm) by 2"(50mm) staffs. The box is about 3' (1000mm) each side and 2' (600mm) deep,  has a floor but is open at the top. The box should act as a water reservoir, therefore needs to be waterproof (at least on the inside).

Additional materials

In order to waterproof the box I bought sheets of HDPE of 0.04" (1mm) thickness. The sheets are somewhat "semi-rigid", not as flabby as foil, but also not rigid enough to support itself, hence the plywood structure.

My Ideas

I planned to nail the HDPE sheets to the plywood sheets and weld the adjoining edges together. Additionally I wanted to seal the nails in a similar way.

Problems

Today I did a few test weldings (I could only get my hands on 0.15" (4mm) welding cord) and was less than satisfied. Probably because of the thickness ratio of cord and sheets the heat distribution was off, the sheets getting too much heat while the cord barely melt.

Question

What other ways are there to waterproof my box (preferably using most of my setup)?

Disclaimer

I know there are easier ways to gather water, I deliberately want to
do it this way.
I welded HDPE sheets before, but always with a
thickness of more than 0.3" (8mm).


texts:
I'm remodeling my bathroom.  It was originally plaster so the stud work wasn't exactly spot on.

I installed a new tub and plan on tiling so I had to get the walls squared.  I married 2x4's next to the existing studs and the picture shows the difference.

The new stud behind the behind the concrete board is the new surface level.  The stud next to it is loose fit to highlight the difference to the rest of the wall to the right.

The new wall surface is almost 2in forward at the top and is almost flush at the bottom.

I have no idea how to finish the wall here.  Do I need to marry more squaring studs and shims all the way across the wall?  Is that going to make the window frame there look goofy set in new wall surface?


texts: installation of portable ac unit in garage with a gas water heater

texts: The propane gas water heater vents the combustion exhaust vi a flute. The portable ac vents the hot air. If i only run the portable ac unit occasionally do I risk carbon monoxide poisoning from the negative pressure in the room created by the portable ac unit? I am going to die of a self inflicted wound if I don't get ac in this garage so please offer a work around for this. Should I just get a CO alarm and test the draft hood operation that way?


texts: Affixing a 5kg mirror to an outdoor wall

texts:
I would like to  mount a 4-5kg   (10-11 lbs)  30" circular    wood mirror on a courtyard wall that occasionally gets strong winds. The mirror currently has two hooks at the top.
Can you suggest a way to affix it to the wall in such a way as to mitigate potential issues during stormy (windy) weather?


texts: How can I join PVC pipe in a food safe way?

texts:
I want to close a rectangular vertically mounted pipe with a piece of flat PVC plastic.
I will use the pipe for growing herbs on the wall outside my house, so it needs to be non-toxic.

I was thinking of using glue or cement for that. Does anyone know any non-toxic glue or cement to do the job?

Or maybe someone have a mechanical idea without using glue?


texts: Can you install stone veneer at an angle?

texts:
I'm thinking of covering my brick fireplace with 6"x24" stone veneer panels and wondered about doing something like setting all the rows on an angle or having the left and right sides each angled up to meet at a peak in the center.

I know I'd have to be really careful to provide support, since the panels would want to slide, but would the final result be less stable once the thin set dries?


texts:
I have an old 225 Amp 30 space commercial flush mount sub-panel in my home with bolt on breakers that has worked for years. Now, there's 120v on one bus and 0 volts on the other bus.

When I remove the leads from the bus, I get 120v on each lead, so there isn't an issue with he wire. It seems I have to replace the panelboard, as when I attach one the lead to the bus the voltage drops from 120v to 0v (the other lead is fine).

I can't seem to find a replacement panelboard for an I-T-E NLA30-3L.

Does anyone know where I might be able to find a replacement?

Are the panel boards repairable?

Is there a replacement panelboard perhaps from Siemens or any other company that will accept the same I-T-E bolt-on breakers so I don't have to replace all of the breakers?


texts:
So I found my floor/wall getting wet, ripped off the drywall and found a dripping poly joint.

I figure I can trim out the joint, and put in PEX.
But I'm guessing it would be better to rip it all out and PEX the entire thing, but I'll have to rip open a lot more wall.  What would be best practice?


texts: Whats the maximum power in WATTS for this type of cable?

texts:
I just bought a Hisense A/C that uses up to 1800 WATTS of power. Im worried about my electrical installation, mainly if it can resist such a big power consume and if its safe using it large periods of time.

My home cables have the following specs printed on it:

  CABLE THW 12 AWG 3.30

  600 VOLTS ANTIFLAMA

And I bought the higher AMP socket I could find, its of 15 AMP max.

Im in Mexico, were voltage is usually 127 V.

So the question is how much power in WATTS does that cable support to be in a safe range of consume??


texts: What is the name of the round metal bit at the top of a bathtub drain?

texts:
At the top of the drain there is this round metal drain bit what is it called?
I am looking to replace this top metal bit of my bathtub drain and need help identifying what it is called.


texts: Can I leave one of the pergola legs unattached to the ground (just sitting on the patio)?

texts:
I am planning to install a pergola over the table and 6 chairs that sit at the corner of my rectangular concrete bricks patio.
I am going to dig to install post supports for the three legs that will sit close to the edge of patio, on my lawn but for the forth I would just like to leave it on the patio (it will bear weight but it will not be screwed to a post support)

Is this doable ? Is it OK?


texts: I have a phylrich two handle shower system.The hot water is leaking and cannot be completely turned off to eliminate the leak. I have unscrewed the stem and it feels free when unscrewing it but will not come out. I can see the threads and continue to turn it thinking it is not completely unscrewed but it turns easily and regardless of how many turns I continue to make, it will not let go. I have another stem to compare the length of the threads and I have unscrewed it sufficiently to assure clearing the threads but it is not letting go.


texts: Can I install a device transformer in a junction box to keep it behind the wall surface?

texts:
I'm in Oregon, USA, and trying to figure out a code-compliant way of hiding a wall wart (AC/DC transformer) behind a small device (about 3"x3"; if it matters, the specific device is a smart garage door opener).

My (possibly XY) solution to this problem is to put a 2-gang box in the wall with a high/low voltage divider plate, wire in a snap-in outlet (or similarly small outlet) and mount the outlet in the divider plate, and plug in the wall wart (inside the junction box) to this outlet.  I'll mount my device to a blank 2-gang plate, and run the 5v barrel connector through the blank plate.

However, my spidey senses say that this would be all sorts of a code violation.  But I'm not sure what, if any, violation this would be.  I'm separating high/low voltage with the divider plate, and the only wires I'm running through are the low voltage (5V) wires.  Would this setup be legal under code?


texts:
If I use GFCI breakers do I still need GFCI receptacles? Also I see some combonation AFCI / GFCI breakers. Are these reliable?
And my last question of the weeek. Is the home run in a branch circuit a seperate neutral wire which connects the last receptacle / switch to the neutral bus?


texts: How should I run a sink drain around a corner in my basement walls?

texts: I have a bathroom vanity on the wall about 3 feet from where I want to put a bar sink. Is there a way to run the plumbing around this corner? I still need to put a couple studs on the corner for drywall. What is the proper way to layout the studs to run pvc around the corner.


texts: Are these boards above my garage structural?

texts:
I started laying out some plywood for storage above my garage, and was wondering id these 2x8's can be removed to make a flatter space.  I saw someone refer to them as "catwalks", though I can't find the reference now.  There are two of them, and they're basically a 2x4 nailed flat against the joists, and a 2x10 naild perpendicular to that.

There is nothing above except the roof, and the garage is below.  Total area is about 30x30'
!


texts: Paint blisters and bubbles right after professional paint job, then rain

texts:
Our Victorian house was recently professionally painted - the job finished a few days ago. Last night it started raining, and this morning there are many places where the paint is now bubbling and blistering.

What could have caused this?

Note that:

Power washing did occur - but plenty of time went by (multiple days), in a warm and dry climate, for that to dry before painting started.
Some surfaces that are now bubbling were primed, others weren't.
There hasn't been rain in a long time, so the wood of the house was thoroughly dry.
The painters seemed to have been fairly careful about cleaning surfaces after preparing (scraping, filling, sanding) and before priming and painting.
Conditions were pretty ideal during painting - dry, mild temps (60s to 70s), little to no wind.


texts: From a safey perspective, is it necessary to seal mortar joints between clay liners in the flue of a fireplace?

texts:
I just got my chimney inspected with a video inspection.  The house was built in 1940 and the inspection showed that the flue has clay liners that are in perfect shape (no cracks, no creosote, still orange in most places).

The only issue that the inspection showed was that the mortar joint between the clay liners had gaps, possibly from water eroding the cement (the chimney is not capped, so we will definitely be doing that).

I plan on having no more than 10 very tame aesthetic fires a year (2-logs) with very good seasoned wood (which I believe produces less creosote).

From a safety perspective, is it necessary to pay the $1500-3000 to have those cracks sealed?

Thanks for any input!


texts: Oobleck (cornstarch & water) CLOG in DRAIN!

texts: Oobleck (cornstarch & water)was poured down my drain, maybe 4oz., by my child and is now stopped up.  Now what?  Can I unclog it or will it require a plumber?


texts: Existing 20amp tandem breaker with 14/2 wires for basement light

texts:
We purchased this house in Marlboro, NJ in 2019. It had finished basement with permit. Basement has drop ceiling and 2x2 fluorescent light containing U-shaped lights. I noticed that basement has a 20amp breaker but these lights were wired with 14/2 wires. ().

I am planning to remove those 2x2 lights and use the 14/2 cable that was feeding power to them in a junction box and take out 2 'branches' from that junction box to install wafer recessed lights.
Overall amperage will be lower than what the light fixtures were using.
My question was if I can use 14/2 for the new wiring coming out of the junction box or should I use 12/2.


texts:
I put a shiny coffee filter holder in dishwasher, and it turned dull grey. In the pic you can see the difference with filter cup, which retained silvery shine in the same dishwasher:

The holder leaves dark grey spots on kitchen towel, when I try to brush it.

I thought it is aluminum, but got confused by posts in internet stating it would turn black if washed in dishwasher. Mine is dull silvery grey.

What would the filter holder be made of, and is it safe to use it now, considering all the coffee drips through it into the cup?


texts: How can I remotely reset a circuit breaker with obstructed access?

texts: I have a 42 foot Rv in a resort. When they put in the RV they covered the 30 amp breaker box and now if the breaker goes I have to crawl under the trailer to get to the box. Is there a way to run a wire from the 30 amp breaker box to inside the RV that if it blows I can switch it back on inside the RV?


texts: Can a home motion detector work through frosted or clear glass?

texts: I'm thinking of installing a motion detector inside an existing recessed fixture over my front door in order to illuminate the stairs and door lock at night. Home Depot sells a small sensor that can be installed between the socket and bulb but nobody has been able to tell me if the frosted glass cover will block the sensor.


texts: How can I hang a large but light poster on a concrete pillar?

texts:
I have a large (est. 5'x7') sheet of plastic foam with a poster printed on it. It weighs maybe 3 lb and is reasonably stiff.

I'd like to hang it on a solid rectangular concrete pillar about 2' wide. The pillar is rough but flat and is covered with paint. Everything is indoors, in a large office building.

I'd avoid drilling concrete for such a light load.

One way would be using large amounts of 2-sided adhesive tape: 5'x2' contact area seems enough. Will such attachment last?

What are other options?

Actual solution

I used 10 Velcro-based adhesive 3M stripes (2 packs of 5 stripes, ~$10 total) which stuck to the concrete quite well, and made mounting/adjusting the poster rather easy. Multiple points of contact hopefully provide some redundancy for the case of any one strip unsticking.


texts: Stop Cold water Flowing in through HW out-take on Water Heater?

texts:
I found the reason why cold water is flowing back into Water Heater through the Hot Water exit pipe, but how do you fix this?  I have a shower with a balance valve and all my faucets are single lever except for bath tub. When I close cold inlet to water heater, so I can drain the leaking water heater, it starts filling up with water through the hot water pipe instead.

So now I have shut off entire supply of water to house.  Removed old water heater and ready to install new one.  I should open only tub hot water faucet once new water heater connected to purge and all should work. Right?

I guess all this means that if you have a balancing valve in the system, you will need a shut off on the hot water-water heater side as well as on the cold water side.  Otherwise, if you have a bad water heater, you have to shut off whole system.  Right??


texts: Can I flush old bleach solution without hurting the environment much?

texts:
I live in the Midwest. Sometimes I clean things with a bleach solution (probably about 12:1 to 24:1 water:bleach), and end up with a bucket of solution. Now I have about 1/2 gallon of water+bleach+dirt. Let's assume that I already have the bucket of solution.

Is there an amount of time that I can leave it out before it becomes close to "harmless" to dump it down my shower drain? I am concerned about my fixtures but more for the environment.

I have heard people say that it breaks down eventually into harmless chemicals, but I have also heard that it never does.

Thanks!


texts: Can I install a subpanel on top of boards instead of of between studs?

texts:
I am installing/replacing a sub-panel in the basement of a split-level. The new panel is on an unfinished wall (drywall on opposite side, towards living-room, but no drywall on the basement side), but the studs at the point of installation are too close for me to  install between them. So, since I had the pieces, I ran a pair of wood cross-beams (morally, 2X4's, but in reality cut from old stairs) perpendicular to the studs, and screwed the sub-panel onto them, and then installed wood, exterior of the panel, level with the cross-beams, so that I can be secure the wires going into the box. Therefore, there is a void behind the box, except where I have the cross-beams.

My question is: have I committed a NEC/fire-safety violation? As far as I can tell, no, but...

[In effect, it's as if I had screwed a large piece of plywood to the wall, with a square cut out in the middle, which I hid with the panel.]


texts: I know this is an odd question, but we just bought new Kohler toilets & I hate them because every time i get up, the seat sticks to my bottom enough to lift the seat up and then crash back down.  I'm told it's because of the soft close seat, but what can I do to fix this.  I've never had this issue with any other toilet (maybe because they are heavier).


texts: How can I add a bathroom fan to the existing end line light switch?

texts: I would like to add a bathroom fan to the existing end line light switch.  I am fine with the switch controlling both the light and fan at the same time as the light only has 14-2 running to the switch and I believe it would need 14-3 or 12-3 if I wanted each of the units to have it's own switch. Correct??  Can I add the exhaust fan onto the existing switch so the switch will turn both the fan and the light on at the same time and if it is possible, how?


texts: Electrical: Is this tangle of wires in a 100 year old house cause for concern?

texts:
Just bought a 100 year old house and it has knob and tube wiring along with newer wiring running to the kitchen and parts of the finished basement. There's a whole bunch of wires in the basement. I'm not sure what is still being used, or what isn't and is just old that was left in place.

There's a couple places where a bunch of different wires are all tangled and connected together, seen in the photos below. Is there anything I should be looking for? Any cause for concern? The inspector didn't mention anything about it during the home inspection.


texts:
I own a family house that used to until about 20 years ago have a sewage collector pit in use. It has been abandoned for about 20 years now. It has concrete walls and roofing and gravel on the bottom. It was never disinfected or treated in any way.
My question is whether it is safe to go down inside the pit or it could be infectious?
EDIT: My intention is to use it to dispose of plant matter.
EDIT2:

I originally asked this question after I went in because I was afraid it might be infectious (since it was storing human poop for many years before sitting empty for 20). Gases accumulating never occured to me, which was stupid of me, but now I know, since many responses and comments pointed it out. This is something I will take into account and make sure everyone who might ever want to do anything with the pit does too. The pit itself is structurally sound, there is no chance anyone in the next 50 years will ever fall into it by accident or anything like that.

The plant matter too I already put in when I submitted this question, since, as I've written above, it has not occured to me this could pose a danger (that's why my question was originally about the infection risk). So it was a done deed, not an actual decision I took after being aware of the possible issues. A very important additional info is that this 'plant matter' is actually half rotten (as in brown rot) dry wood, it is not something that will vigorously decompose and produce a lot of gases very quickly. Another important aspect is that this pit is safely closed (though it has a grill covered opening with a diameter of about 15 cms on its roof that exits into the garden so it is very definitely not a hermetically closed space) and there is literally no chance anyone ever going inside without taking precautions. I know because it's either me, or someone I might sell the house to, but if I sell it I will most definitely tell them about the pit and the possible accumulation of CO2 and the precautions they need to take. Also, I highly doubt I will ever descend as I really have nothing to do there, I just went down once (before putting anything there and before asking this question) because I was curious and, as it turns out, stupid.


texts: How long should I wait for plaster to dry/cure between coats?

texts:
Even though I am in the U.S., my city row house is old and the brick walls attaching to neighbors on each side have an inch thick plaster.  During the recent demolition/renovation, I had to tear some of it off and now I have a few strips to refill.

I have already done this job and am well familiar with the procedure, I even mix my own special mix from ingredients each of which comes from a different store (one of them being hydraulic lime as opposed to cement).  I do two coats of coarse plaster (2.5x masonry sand, 1x lime) and then one final coat of fine plaster (1.5x super fine silica white sand, 1x lime).  However, every time I waited two days before coats so that the previous coat is solid dry and adhered to the wall so that the new coat doesn't weigh the whole application off.  I am questioning my time period as too long.

Is it possible that a coat is ready to be reapplied sooner than that and how long?


texts: My HOA doesn't want to do it and I need to sell this condo. Not sure how to tell if it is stucco or concrete. I have lots of experience with drywall repair, but never done this on the outside. What materials would be used? I'm thinking of just caulking/painting the cracks and patching the bad spot with stucco repair?


texts:
My house was built in the 70s so most of my outlets are on a switch in which the bottom is always hot and the tops are controlled by the switch.

I'm installing recessed lighting and I'm going to use the switch the outlets are on for the lights. While doing that I"m going to install new outlets throughout the room and I want them to be wired hot all the time now.

The red wire in the picture is the switch wire, I have tested it via meter to confirm. Both outlets are wired a little different with one have 3 neutrals and the other only having 2 so I'm a confused on how to wire the new outlets in leaving them hot on top and bottom.

PS: the outlet with 3 neutrals is jumpered for power

Thanks!!!!


texts: Change GFCI outlet/switch with regular switch

texts:
I have 2 switches in my bathroom: a fan (power comes into the fan and it's just a simple black/white to the switch) and a switch/outlet GFCI combo where the switch powers the lights but the outlet always has power (power comes in at the box with separate line to the lights)

It seems very backwards to anyone hitting switches that the small switch is the lights and single large switch is the fan, thus I want to swap them.

First, based on the configuration, is it possible to do a simple swap for the switches? I don't care if the fan would be GFCI protected or not using that switch. However, based on this question I have a feeling it's not possible? (Apologies if this isn't possible and you'd consider the question a duplicate, I'm being optimistic this situation is different enough I can rewrite it)

If it is possible can anyone point me at a diagram on how I'd wire this up?
If helpful, here's a picture of how it's wired now (power in, lights, fan)


texts: How can I restore the springs in my storm door hinges?

texts:
I have a storm door that has springs in the hinges - in theory, they're supposed to close the door, and they worked OK for a couple of years.

Lately, however, they no longer close the door properly.  Is there any way to restore them, or do I need to replace them (or purchase a proper door closer)?


texts: Does commercial wiring differ from residential wiring downstream from the main panel?

texts:
I'm not a licensed electrician, but I have years of experience with code-compliant (permitted and inspected) electrical work for RESIDENTIAL properties that I own. I'm currently preparing to make some electrical modifications in a COMMERCIAL space that I lease, and I'd like to do the work myself.

My project will be limited to extending existing circuits and replacing older wiring, conduit, receptacles, switches, and fixtures. I'm familiar with the basic concept of single-phase residential wiring vs three-phase commercial wiring, but, other than running wire through conduit, do any of the differences come into play downstream from the main panel?


texts: Supporting a glass floor panel as a part of a floating deck

texts:
We have built a floating deck attached to the rear of a brick house with a below-grade basement. Now, we have some rear basement well windows that the deck framing is built around. In order to still have some natural daylight come through the windows, we are looking to place some glass panels on the floor of the deck, above the well windows.

Questions:

Is this stable? A glass calculator based on my dimensions of 38 inches X 20 inches X 1/2 inch thick states that the load can be > 600 lbs assuming supports are 3 ft. apart.
On 3 sides (of the deck), we have built a wood bracket intended to support the tempered glass panel that is about an inch thick - in addition to this, we are planning to add a 4th edge bolted to the brick side, on the house building. Is this 4th edge necessary or can 3 edges be good enough to support this? Assuming that a person of reasonable weight (<250 lb) will be able to stand on it.
If so, for the 4th edge, is there some kind of metal L-shaped bracket that can be bolted to the house building? I'm thinking of a bracket shaped like those used to support manhole covers, but my search for it hasn't yielded any results.

Here's a picture:


texts: How to prepare new stucco, for a later heavy duty item attachment?

texts:
I would like to hang a particular heavy duty hose reel on a wall that will be patched with stucco.  In other words, it's sheathing and studs right now.

I could wait until after the stucco is on, drill holes overly large, caulk, and insert a screw.  But can I do better?  Is there some form of stud that could be placed in the stucco or on the wall, that offers less risk of long term water barrier failure?

This is USA West Coast, 1938 stucco wood frame home.


texts:
I have a septic system in my backyard, but I don't know where the lid is.

Is there a way to locate it based on the pipes or other method?  I think it's under the lawn somewhere.

The reason I want to find it?  You can save about $50 if you dig up the lid before getting the septic pumped.


texts: how do i mount this old Toyo Toki (Toto) sink?

texts:
I'd like to use this small sink in a powder room, but can't figure out how it mounts to the wall. There are large holes for lugs at the bottom, but if that's it the sink will tip and crack.

Does something go into the two upper holes? I've looked for brackets and nothing matches; they all use a French cleat system. I haven't found a guide to installing an old wall mount sink either; everything I found says "now install the bracket supplied by the manufacturer". Doh!

Edit: I understand that something is going to have to go into the top holes to secure the sink. I just don't understand what or how. The two top holes go into the sink and I have no access to the front. So I can't insert a screw or bolt there to stick out the back.

Any suggestions?

Edit 2: Added a couple more pictures of the back of the sink. I think making a cleat-type bracket like @eric-poole suggested just might work!


texts: Water under the vapour barrier in the attic

texts: I noticed a small wet patch on my bathroom ceiling. So I climbed into the attic to see if the roof is leaking as the wet patch was close to the wall near where the eves trough runs. It was then that I noticed that there was a little bit of water under the vapour barrier. I have no idea how it got in there. Any suggestions on what I could do .Thank you


texts: if i have a current 100 amp service, will the service be able to handle the new 40 amp breaker for the EV, there are 5 other 20 amp existing breakers in the same service


texts: How to deal with clear flakes off my wooden headboard

texts: Tonight I noticed quite a bit of clear flaking on my wood headboard.  Can anyone let me know what this is and how I should deal with it?


texts: Techniques for putting ends on RJ45 connectors easier?

texts:
I've been doing a bunch of cat 5 running lately. I've been putting RJ45 ends on everything I run.

I'm finding it is still not that easy for me to get the little wires into the connectors.  Do any tools or techniques exist for helping get them into the connector?  I already have a tool to crimp the ends but it's the actual getting of the 8 little wires into the connectors that I'm looking for help.


texts: How to make paint stick to a stud screw?

texts: Around my house, I have a places on my walls where the paint has fallen off of stud screws. They are not popped screws. Rather, they are still depressed into the wall, so I don't know how why this happening. This time around, how should I prepare the wall so that my paint sticks onto the screw for a longer time? I have access to both spackle and joint compound, but I don't know which one to use. I use Behr Premium Ultra paint, which is self-priming.


texts: Is it safe to put a woodstove on a sheet of cement board?

texts:
I'm looking at how to install a woodstove in a yurt. In this example, it looks like he put 1 sheet of cement board on the floor, and another against the wall.

(click for full size)

Is a single sheet of cement board enough to protect the wood floor from the heat of the stove?

(More pictures here: http://www.barefootboy.com/yurt/. This is not my yurt.)

The woodstove I'm looking at says this in the manual:

  A combustible floor must be protected by a non-combustible material
  (like tile, concrete board, or certified to UL-1618 or as defined by
  local codes) extending beneath the heater and a minimum of 6" from
  each side and minimum 16" from the front face of the stove and minimum
  6" (or the rear clearance to combustibles whichever is smaller) from
  the rear of the stove.

which doesn't tell me much.

EDIT: I just got this response from the manufacturer:

  The woodstove does not require a R value, the pedestal or heat shield
  and legs raises the firebox high enough not to require the R value.
  You just require the floor protection like a piece of sheet metal and
  tiles etc.


texts: Is there a 3-way occupancy switch with one sensor being external?

texts:
I have two lamps wired to a 3-way regular switch: one in a hallway and another one on the staircase following it. I would like to change the regular switch with motion detection occupancy one, but there's a problem. One of the 3-way switches is in the hallway, but the other one is in the living room (adjacent to the staircase). Which means that if I change the switch to an occupancy one, it will trigger when people are just moving in the living room, not necessarily going to the staircase.

I can see a couple of solutions, but they are too time consuming/expensive:

Move the living room staircase switch to the staircase. But I would like to avoid doing it because it's too much work.
Remove the regular switches completely and buy occupancy sensors that are installed directly on the lamps. It's a better solution than (1), but such sensors could be difficult to match to the existing lamps.

I'm wondering if there's a solution that would be something like this:
- Replace the hallway switch with 3-way occupancy one
- Install another 3-way occupancy sensor on/near the staircase lamp
- Keep or remove the living room switch currently used to control the staircase lamp


texts: Kitchen drawer soft-closer - whose company logo is this?

texts:
The soft close on my pull out larder has broken and I'm struggling to identify it for obtain a replacement. Does anyone recognise this logo?

The only other identifying mark on it is a number 136685 POM

Full thing, as requested:


texts: Why are these receptacles so difficult to plug into?

texts: I just moved into a new apartment with these weird receptacles that make it very difficult to plug anything in. Is there a trick to these? Or is it normal for it to be extremely difficult to plug into them?


texts: What type of squeegee should I use when oiling a floor?

texts:
I have a pine wood floor I'm about to oil. The recommended procedure (according to the manufacturer) is:

For about 5 boards at a time:

Apply oil using a paint roller. Leave it wet for 5-10 minutes
Use a squeegee to drag the excess oil to the next boards
Dry the boards with a cloth

I've heard from two sources that the rubber on the squeegees they've used has partially dissolved in the oil, leaving black stripes on the floor.

This makes sense, since oil can dissolve rubber, so I figured I might want to use another type (if there are other types available).

However, in the pictures used to illustrate the procedure, it seems the squeegees are made of rubber.

Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions for how I can avoid this?


texts: How do I fix a large piece of drywall not matching up on a ceiling repair?

texts:
I removed and replaced an approximately 5'x6' drywall piece in the ceiling. On the butt joints, I used some OSB backer board to join them between floor joists. I knew this might be a problem, specifically with how low the joist block is to it (see previous question: Within code, can I notch a joist block?).
I hung a piece, then tried tightening down on the "high" (where the new drywall replacement piece drops below the existing piece) and ended up crumbling the repair piece in a few spots. I unscrewed it all and removed the piece, cut a new piece and reinstalled. It looks a little better but in one corner next to the problem area with the joist block, the butt joint can't "suck up" anymore due to the block there. I can slightly push near the high corner on the new drywall but it feels like it's stressing too much and that a screw (instead of the surface area of my palm) would cause it to crumble. This is only an issue in this one corner as all other joints are either recessed or flush so after multiple hot mud and finishing mud it'll be easier to handle.
The max overhand is 1/4" and after some quick searching I found a post that said it can be smoothed out with mudding but it may take several feet. Will it take "feet" to spread a 1/4" join to look flat??? Obviously, I want to minimize feathering multiple feet and retexture.


texts: Remove switch from three-way series circuit

texts:
I've got a three-way switch installed in series (I believe that's the correct term - it is not a proper three-way switch, both switches have to be in the on position for the lights to be on.) I had an electrician check, and he said it was wired improperly at the light and I would have to completely rewire it to make it function properly.

So as an alternative, I want to just remove one of the switches, the first on the circuit.

Can I just connect black to black and white to white at that switch, to basically treat that switch as always on?


texts: Where can I find plumbing diagram for my home?

texts: Trying to understand the workings of the house. Where will I be able to find a plumbing diagram for my house? Does the City Hall/Planning have a copy?


texts: Replacing a motherboard on a Carrier 8000VS Furnace

texts:
Hi guys, I am trying to finalize the wiring of my new carrier motherboard. I have about four more wires to connect and the new motherboard is slightly different than the old one. The pictures I’ve attached show my most confusing part of this wiring. It looks like these two black wires are basically connected and And basically sharing an L1 terminal.  One of the black wires goes to the blower motor and the other black wire goes up to the furnace.   I tried to connect these Joined wires onto the new motherboard and there just isn’t room.

It says that these are line voltage wires.  It looks like I have to separate them. Where would I connect the other one because only one will fit on the new terminal pictured above with an “A” on it.

Thanks for any help.


texts: How do I keep runoff rain from flooding my carport?

texts: Once the drain and ditches fill up in front of my property, water comes all the way down carport and leaves approx.a 2 inch water line around foundation and steps. City tells me it's a county problem,county tells me it's the city's. Driveway sits low so all rain comes in like a river.


texts: What do you do with a company who did a bad install who will not come out to inspect the job or return your calls?

texts:
I am hoping this doesn't fall into off-topic territory.  If it does, I'll just have to find another website to ask it on.

I am the president of an HOA and one of our unit owners is experiencing water leaks due to a potentially bad roof install last year.  I originally reported the problem in 12/16.  They've come out once and blamed the leak on "ice damming" which they do not cover in the contract.  I had someone else take a look at pictures of the install who added captions to the photos explaining how the install was potentially bad.  I forwarded these pics to the project manager who told me he'd return my call after he reviewed them.  He didn't call back in two days.  After lots of complaining, I finally got a call back from one of the co-owners on 12/19 who left a message on my VM.  I returned his call a few hours later and he didn't return my call at all.  I had to call him back on 12/26 where he told me he and his team would be out on 12/27 or 12/30.  He never called.  I called him on 12/31 and again today where I'm still waiting for his call.

What do you do when a company is very leisurely about returning your calls or even not at all?
What do you do when they say the problem is not their fault?
If there's the potential for leaking to occur and they're not owning up, how do you go about fixing the problem in the meantime?  Do you just needlessly spent more money to have another company come out and fix it?  Is there a way to prove that they're accountable for the bad install?

I know that SE deals in objective problems only (usually, at least), but there's simply no other trustworthy Q&A site out there, so I am hoping I can get this one answered here.  Thanks.


texts: How can I tell if a circuit breaker is worn out?

texts:
I was installing a light and tripped the breaker (in retrospect, should have turned the breaker off before starting).  When I finished installing it I reset the breaker and tried the light switch.  The light still had a short, however, instead of the same breaker tripping it ended up tripping the main breaker.

I disconnected the light, turned off all breakers, reset the main breaker, and turned the local breakers back on.  Everything is now humming along perfectly.  My current belief is that the local breaker must have been busted by the first short and failed to catch the second short.

Questions:

Does this diagnosis seem correct (broken local breaker)?
Does this mean I should have the main breaker replaced, could it be worn out now?
Is there any way to test breakers other than making a short?
Is it a good idea to replace breakers when buying a house (not a new one of course)?


texts: Need help with wiring diagram for 14-3 for a switch,14-2 for power source, and light all connected in s junction box, thanks

texts: Just need the correct wiring diagram to connect both 14-2 and 14-3 in a junction box


texts: I am looking for a way to remove the protective sheath from a length of multicore mains electrical cable. It's rated for outdoor use and is VERY strong. Without butchering my fingers; trying to fine cut it with a utility knife and without cutting into the hot wire insulation (and exposing the bare copper) in the process. I've already made 4 such errors and inflicted 2 knife cuts.


texts: How to prepare wall with peeling paint for painting

texts: I am filling in cracks on a wall and when I use the sander it takes of existing paint which then peels off in strips is there an easy answer that's not to hard thanks


texts: Can I change normal plug to a 15amp round pin plug?

texts:
I've got some festoons for a theatre show but the theatre is quite old and I was told they need to have 15amp round pin plugs. Can I just get some ordinary festoons and swap the plug into a 15amp round pin plug? And is changing them a very tricky undertaking?
Or are there any adapters for that for those sort of plugs?
Any answers would help
thank you very much
Lia


texts:
What should I use for cleaning a TV plasma screen? My three-year-old daughter has put her hands many times on the screen and there is a big spot on it.
I don't live in America, so maybe I'm not able to buy a known American brand, but I'll appreciate any kind of guide.


texts:
I have a basement that we would like to make into a recreation room.
There are two ways into the basement, code compliant stairs and a 36x80 door that leads to a mudroom (we live in Maine so mudrooms are key :-). The Mudroom has a direct door to the exterior.
Will these two ways into and out of the basement meet code?


texts: Pull-down faucet hose doesn't slide into sink/counter holes

texts:
Little bit of a thing here (and also my first time trying anything remotely like a plumbing project):
I'm trying to replace a leaky pull-down kitchen faucet hose. I saw it was suggested to take the existing hose to the store to compare with, but I didn't have any luck finding the right hose at my local stores. So I wanted to replace my current hose for now so I'd have something in the meantime until I can get a new one from the manufacturer. But when I try to slide the hose back through the faucet and down through the holes, it seems like it just won't fit and gets stuck. It did take a little extra effort to remove the hose from the faucet in the first place, but not tons.
Additionally, I tried to hook the hose up directly under the sink without going through the faucet. Again, so I could have some semblance of a kitchen sink for now. But when I turn the water on, it flows out of the hole that the hose would go through, instead of the supply hose. I'm assuming this is unexpected even though that hole would normally have the pull-down hose going through it. Is it possible that the supply hose is dislodged in the faucet, causing both problems? I'm worried that even if I do get a new hose, I might need to disassemble the faucet in order to fix whatever is going on in there.
Thanks for any help.
Photos:


texts: Using Water Supply Pipe to Connect the Earth Wire

texts:
In the past, it was common to connect the earth wire (green/yellow wire) of an appliance to the water pipe. But now we were told to connect it to the earth pin of the power plug, instead.  But, why can't we use the water pipe anymore?

Currently, I am installing a new electric heater but have to reuse an old power cord that runs through the wall that has only 2 wires (line and neutral) without the earth wire.  So, it is impossible for me to connect the heater's earth wire to the earth pin of the plug.  I am thinking of using the old method of using the water pipe to earth my heater.  Is it a valid method? Another possibility is to connect my heater's earth to the earth of another appliance nearby.  Does it make any difference?

We are following the UK electric wiring standards although strict adherence to the standard is not my concern.


texts: Do above counter bowl sinks require special cabinets?

texts: I am currently renovating a bathroom.  In the process, I'll be replacing the ugly 1970s vanity with a new craftsman style cabinet, solid surface countertop, and two above counter glass bowl sinks.  However, I am getting a bit concerned about the sink height, as the sink will no longer be set into the vanity.  How is this typically dealt with?  Standard height cabinets?  Special cabinets that are lower/designed for these sinks?  Something else?


texts: Should I insulate my attic with a hot or cold roof?

texts:
I'm turning my 3rd floor attic into a usable space.  It's a hip roof, 25' x 23', with one dormer.  We just had new asphalt singles put on it and it was about 12 foot of ridge vent on the dormer / peak. The rafters are 6 inch actual.

Should I build a hot or cold roof?

If I go cold, I would have to install soffit vents (circular ones), baffles, and drill through a lot of rafters to make air ways to the ridge vent. (I didn't know about hip roof ridge vents before we had the roof re-shingled). Then I would only have room for 4 or 5" insulation.

If I go hot, I could get 2 layers of 3" 4x8 rigid foam board cut to size and seal the gaps with great stuff. This seems much easier than the spray foam kits and easier than the cold roof option.

This project is all DIY, and I don't want to add depth to the rafters and lose attic space. I've heard a cold roof can add lifetime to your shingles, but I've also heard that it doesn't matter. For energy savings I've heard that sealing and more R value is the way to go.


texts: Ceiling light fixture held up only by the pressure of two screws?

texts: I have a light fixture, pictured, whose cap (bottom white part) is a glass cap that is apparently just held in place with two screws that don't have a head (slot). The screw goes through the metal casing but there aren't any holes for the screws to go in in the glass thing. It seems to be holding, but is that normal...?


texts: How should I convert my range receptacle?

texts:
My kitchen is equipped for  dual fuel range, with both gas and electric, with a 50A breaker, 6/3 + ground, and a corresponding receptacle to accommodate that wiring.

We are replacing our range with a gas unit, which only requires to be plugged into a "normal" nema 5-15p outlet.

How should I adapt my existing 6/3 wiring in the wall to serve this range? It seems incorrect to wire nut 12awg to the 6awg and replace the receptacle.


texts:
The washbasin in my bathroom is clogged very badly and I have no idea how can I clear it. I'm in Germany and their systems are very new to me and I don't even know what I should do on my own. Back home it was pretty simple and cheap to clear/replace the plastic pipes. Following is the pic of my basin:

Could you suggest what I should do?


texts:
I have cabinets that are covered with paper laminate.  I need to paint the surrounding walls.  Blue painter tape removes the color of the laminate.

What type of tape can I safely use that won't damage the laminate or remove the color?


texts:
I am trying to change these shower knobs/valve/stem as they are leaking from there base and there is so much salt stains.
I live in a condo where there is no access panel. To get water supply turned off, to try anything, off whole building supply needs to be off. This gives me anxiety as I can't request for longer shut off time for trial and errors. I can't seem to find any brand name. Please guide me in any way possible. Thank you!

enter image description here


texts: Should I filter polluted outside air as it comes through my window or clean it inside the room?

texts:
Situation:

apartment of 42m², ground level, recent from 2013
humidity is 40%
apartment near a big city, in the suburbs
near freeways
we have a very good air handler with 2 extraction systems: one in the kitchen one in the bathroom
we have 2 windows which have an opening on their top parts, they blow air inside the apartment
these openings are like these https://dekorplast.com/en/products/windows/wentylacja/

What's happening:

in the evening it smells pollution. It smells like something being burned nearby.
Our throats are sore in the mornings
it smells stronger in the winter (I guess, some people heat with wood which increases pollution)

--> we need something to clean the air if we wanna live longer than 40
What I did:

I bought some standard HEPA filters on the Internet
I cut them
and I put them flat against the air inlet on both my windows:

I removed the plastic cover

Then I flatten the HEPA filter against the window frame on top of the air holes

And then I put back the plastic cover on top of the HEPA filter

That way my HEPA filters stay in place and they filter 100% of the incoming air

What happened using this rigged system:

The HEPA filters got black sooth in them after a couple days
It doesn't smell burned in the apartment anymore. If I open the windows, it still does smell like something being burned outside.
Unfiltered air still gets in the apartment, but much more slowly
We don't have sore throats in the mornings

My question
--> Because I wonder if the "Air purifiers" are useful. Please read my analysis below.
My wife and I, we thought maybe we should buy an "Air purifier".
There are many on the market with many different prices. We know and that's not the issue/point here.
However...
When I think a little... on how purifiers work...
They have a fan that pulls air in, they filter it using a (often custom) HEPA filter + carbon filter, and then it goes back into the room as clean air.
WHICH MEANS
That one must let the crappy air in first, so that the purifier cleans it then.
We have to trust that the purifier is strong enough that it sucks air in faster than the crappy outside air has time to deposit inside, and faster that it could reach our lungs.
Correct?
But since these air purifiers do not plug on the air inlets nor cover them, they will never filter 100% of the outside air coming in.
Still some 'unpurified' air will somehow flow in and move outside of the purifier's reach.
Contrary to my simple rigged way, which does cover the inlet air and which hence cleans 100% of the foul air.
So my idea is to buy these custom HEPA filters from some air purifier sellers, and just stuff them under my window cover thingy. Problem solved, in my view.
But... am I correct?
Did I miss something?
Pretty much, I believe air purifiers are useless unless they are connected to the air inlets and covers them. Which isn't the case.
Am I right?


texts: Cleaning and staining a fence with segments of different color and age

texts:
I have a fence that I share with my neighbors and I have a couple of questions related to how to properly clean and stain this fence. You can see it in the picture below. There is another segment perpendicular on what you see there and to make the things more complicated that side is shared on a small segment with one neighbor and the rest of it with another neighbor.

These being said here are my questions:

What is the best way to clean and stain this fence considering that the color and the ages of various segments are different. To be clearer, in the picture you have the only two colors and ages present in my fence.
This is more of a legal, procedural question: how do I do the above without having problems with my neighbors. I think that the fence is on the property line so the ownership is shared. The newer looking segment separates me from my left side neighbor while the worse looking segment separates me from the two back side neighbors (back to back properties). One of the back neighbors has a vegetable garden there and I do not want to pollute his garden but I still want to stain/clean my fence. I am planning to use a power washer and an air pressure gun for staining but I am afraid that these might get beyond the fence and that might be trouble. Are there any ways to prevent this ?


texts: Electrical outlet arcs only for non polarized grounded plug

texts:
Let me start by saying I have ceased the use of this outlet, and will be contacting maintenance for a replacement.

I have a grounded outlet in my apartment that has had a power strip plugged into it for nearly 2 years. The plug on the strip is 3 prong without the wider blade of a polarized plug. I believe I may have bumped the cord when I was running some cables nearby as the power strip had lost power. I checked the plug to find it ever so slightly tilted out of the socket (tipped down, pivoting on the ground prong if that matters). Upon tipping it back to be fully seated I heard the telltale sound of an arc happening.

I pulled the plug out and found a scorch mark on a very specific spot on the left prong. Upon re-seating the plug I heard it again. I shut off the strip and moved it to the plug above on the same outlet. I figured I had a bad connection in that particular socket, so I plugged in my lamp which has a polarized 2 prong plug. No issue. Not even when wiggling it.

So now I thought, well maybe only a non-polarized plug will have a bad connection due to the size. So I plugged in a simple night light. It has 2 prongs and is not polarized. Again, no issue. Regardless of the orientation or any wiggling.

So that leaves me wondering, what is so special about the power strip that makes it arc? Is it that it's grounded? Is it the amount of power being drawn?


texts: Adding outlet to existing outlet controlled by switch

texts:
I've got an existing circuit of outdoor receptacles, and only one of those receptacles is controlled by a light switch. I want to add another receptacle, so that it's also controlled by the same light switch.
How would I go about doing that? I've made my best attempt at diagramming this out:


texts: How do I check continuity without having a multimeter to see which white wire is my hot?

texts: how do i check continuity without having a multimeter to find out which one of my white wires are hot and I need to hook my black and blue wires to ?


texts: I saw my mixing valve under the bath that is so dirty. Is it normal? Thanks


texts: possible cause for the water heater being unable to be lighted

texts: The water heater could not be lighted. I tried several times without being successful. What could be the possible causes for the water heater to fail to be lighted. This water heater is only 1 and half years old.


texts: What could be causing my oven to display an error when touched?

texts: Often, when I touch my oven, especially in the area of the controller, the oven controller lights up completely and resets to "PF". or Power failure. I then need to set the clock all over again and wait for the next episode. Whirlpool sent a service person who changed the circuit board. Same problem exists after a week. When I touch the oven I feel a small static electricity zap. Any ideas?


texts:
I recently came into the possession of these 3 metal things. Can anyone tell me what these are and what they are used for?
Each have 3 holes in the bottom. One has a large round cutout in the top the with 1"-25MM on it.
The next one has two smaller round cutouts in the top with 3/4"-19MM 5/8"-16MM under the cutout.
The Last one has a large v-shaped cut out with a 90º next to the cutout.


texts: How to tell if there is poor water pressure before my main shut-off valve?

texts:
I am troubleshooting some spontaneous and inexplicable water pressure issues. Overnight, without anything jumping out as obvious, our water pressure has dropped from "good/steady" to "barely existent".

First, I need to figure out whether the water pressure coming into the house is good or bad; that will rule a lot of things out. I was told that I need to:

  ...figure out if any water is available before [my] main shut-off valve. If so check the water pressure there.

However I'm not all that familiar with what tools/methods are available to me to make this assessment. I know where water leaves my house (it's a 4- or 5-inch thick pipe down in my basement). But I'm not sure where water is entering my house, and even then, how to check the pressure before the water gets to this "shut off" valve.

Any ideas as to how I can:

Identify where water is entering my house; and
How to test the pressure prior to this shut-off valve? Tools? Methods? Caveats/gotchyas?


texts: How do I know if my service panel will accommodate a 240v circuit breaker

texts:
We are looking to install a hot tub and are trying to find out if our service panel will accommodate a 240V circuit breaker.
This is what our panel says, but I do not know what all of this means:

CAT NO
SC1624M100C
RAINPROOF TYPE 3R ENCLOSURE
MAINS 125 AMP. MAX.
SEE SERVICE DISCONNECT FOR RATING
120V/240V. AC. 1PH. 3W
METER SOCKET RATED 200 AMP CONTINUOUS
MAX. BRANCH BREAKER - 100 AMP

Will we need a service change (like $2500), or just able to add a 240V circuit breaker in the panel (that would be much less expensive)?


texts: Should data ground wires be attached to plumbing?

texts:
I have ground wires attached to copper plumbing on the house side of the dielectric coupling.  The telephone service box has a ground wire which I found attached to copper plumbing.  The satellite dish also has a ground wire which I found attached in a similar manner.  Shouldn't they be grounded as best as possible to earth?  In other words, shouldn't they be attached to the water service line on the dirt side of the dielectric?

Maybe it doesn't really matter and the data equipment just needs a big electron sink to dampen some kind of electrical noise.  But I kind of think it's a safety issue.  In the event of a lightning strike on the dish/telephone line I would think you'd want an uninterrupted conduction path to the earth.

I looked around for an installed ground rod but either this house doesn't have one or it's inaccessible.


texts: Two outdoor outlets not functioning..what is the most likely cause

texts:
I have two outdoor electrical outlets that are not working.
They are both GFCI and close to each other.
10 feet above one is a floodlight receptacle that is controlled by an interior switch inside the room  behind it.

There are two working  electrical outlets on the interior room wall that appear to be directly behind the dead  exterior outlets

I have tried reseting  the GFCI buttons on both of the dead outlets and have not found an inside GFCI receptacle the might be connected to.

Any guesses as to what may be causing these outside dead outlets or why they might have been installed close to each other


texts: My townhouse has some outdoor stairs built out of 6" x 8" lumber (i.e., the first step is comprised of two pieces of lumber (with no "nosing")). A couple of the steps are rotten and I need to change the lumber. I have the lumber and the replacement 10" nails (spikes).  My question is, what is the best way to remove the old spikes? Someone suggested sawing off the head of the spikes, but they are driven in the lumber, so I am not sure how to do this. I have almost no tools (other than a hammer, drill, basic stuff -- though I suspect I will need to get at least a sledge hammer to drive in those spikes -- how big?), so simplest way possible please.


texts: Can I mount a router to the Ridgid R4510 table saw?

texts: I'd like to purchase a Ridgid R4510 table saw, but I want to make sure I can mount a router under it. Should I be concerned with whether this specific table saw is going to allow it or do pretty much all table saws accommodate a router attachment? Also, would there be a commercially available router attachment for this table. I noticed that most people create their own attachments, but I might like to save some time and just buy one.


texts: What could cause water to not go into the gutters?

texts: I recently installed vinyl gutters around the roof of my house, but after the first rain I discovered that the gutter doesn't seem to be catching a lot of the water. Much of the water seems to be dribbling between the gutter and the fascia board.  What is a good way to make the water go into the gutter?


texts: Which side of wood deck boards should face up?

texts:
We're making a roof terrace using wood deck boards. The two sides of the deck board differ, with small/large grooves. Which side should face up, is this purely an aesthetic choice or is there something else to consider?

I've read about looking at the wood grain, to make sure the planks expand/curl the right way when getting wet, but I'm not sure whether this is correct.


texts:
When I turn this bathroom faucet on and off, the water flow is somewhat irregular so I tried looking at the aerator to see if it needs cleaning:

What kind of aerator is this and how do I remove it?

It doesn't look like any of the aerators that I can find by searching the web. I'm not sure what manufacturer made this faucet as it has no labels on it. I tried to put a screwdriver in there and turning but was not able to make it move. Do I need a tool specifically for this aerator?

Viewed from above:


texts: Can anyone identify these old Zinsco breakers?  I need to add one 20 amp breaker to this panel.   thanks!


texts: Can I use the extra thermostat cable as C cable for wifi?

texts: I just purchased an ecobee4 and I found that I need C wire for wifi which is not connected to my current thermostat. However, there 2 extra wires I found in the wall. Could you use one of them for the C wire? Also the board has something already going in to C screw but I think its for something else? It's coming out of the separate brown cable. There is also one wire coming from brown cable going to yellow. I leave these 2 alone?


texts: Should I convert two AC units to a dual-zoned unit?

texts: One-story 2200 square ft home, currently with two AC units, need replacing, which is better two AC units or a dual zoned hvac system?


texts: Master showerhead has electrical current, what to do?

texts:
Good morning,
I purchased a home last month and have been in the process of updating/renovating. My first night in the home was Saturday night. I went to take a shower, turned the water on and got in. I went to adjust the showerhead and felt a slight "shock" I thought I was going crazy, so I of course being the genius I am grabbed the shower head and yep, sure enough it had an electrical current going thru it. After going thru the process of elimination I found the circuit that was causing the issue, however its a circuit feeding the other end of the home.

What could cause this? Its a single story home, the plumbing should be coming from ground up and the wiring should be going up thru the attic to feed the house. The bathroom is probably about 5 feet from the breaker box (thru a wall) both bathrooms and the laundry room are clustered in one area and the breaker box is in the laundry room.

I had someone suggest its a grounding issue. I'm thinking its more of an exposed wire issue. The current didn't feel like it was 110 (I've taken that hit a few times) it was slightly more intense than a static shock. I left the breaker off overnight as I didn't need it to be on (its the breaker that feeds the den lights and receps). I turned it on midday on Sunday and went back and checked and there was no current at that time. I even went thru the motions of taking my shoes and socks off and turning the water on to try and duplicate the original circumstances.

As far as wiring goes, I haven't messed with anything in the house other than change out a couple receps and eliminate some piggy backed track lights in the kitchen.


texts: Refrigerator water line leaking even though not hooked up

texts: I recently moved into a home and decided not to hook up the water line to my refrigerator. It was fine for a few weeks, but there appears to be a leak. Now the tube that flows from the water valve is leaking water. I'm not sure what needs to be fixed. Is it the water valve itself that needs to be replaced? I'm pretty sure the valve is turned off because it wasn't leaking before.


texts: What's an easy way to fix a damaged floor tile?

texts: It's top layer is chipped off. Anyway to cover it up or repair it? Can I also know of this happened recently or old damage from this picture (not realistic obviously but asking anyway).


texts:
I've purchased a dishwasher supposedly with exact same dimensions as the previous however swapping out hasn't been as straightforward as I imagined.  The issue is a waste pipe, ever so slightly in the way and preventing the dishwasher from a flush fitting.  There's about 25mm in it.  The connector pipe appears to have an unnecessary T fitting (see pic).  I was thinking about swapping out the connector and have 2 questions:

1) Is that T unnecessary? Or is it some type of non-return valve

2) If it's solvent welded I've read that I'll have to saw the pipe off. If so do I cut, insert a new length of pipe and then solvent weld with 2 40mm Straight Coupler's?

Thanks!


texts: What is the easiest way to replace an existing backsplash?

texts:
I've got an unusual backsplash in my kitchen that I would like to replace.

As you can see from the picture, there's about 6" of granite tile acting as a proper backsplash, but above that it appears they installed sheetrock (flush with the surface of the tile) all the way up to the bottom of the cabinets.  So the combination of the tile and the sheetrock is like an additional layer on top of the actual kitchen wall.

I guess the point of this is to give the impression that the tile backsplash is embedded into the wall?  In any case, I would like to replace the backsplash with the least amount of work practical.

If it were just sheetrock, I assume I could just tile over it.  If it was just tile along the bottom edge, I would remove it first.  But the combination of the tile and flush sheetrock is complicating my path forward.

Am I going to have to remove the tile and the "false wall" above it? Or can I just apply the new backsplash right over the top of it?

There's close to 30 linear feet of this stuff, so removing it will be a lot of work I don't want to do if I don't absolutely have to.


texts: Bathroom Ceiling Outlet installation from Attic

texts:
I would like to install another outlet in my bathroom so I can hookup a smart speaker. I think the easiest way to do this would be from the attic such that I could place a ceiling outlet from an easy to reach power source.

Does the outlet need to be a certain distance from the wall, or could
it be where the ceiling meets a wall?
Does the outlet need to be GFCI (It will be 6 feet or so away from the
sink)?


texts: Rust in gas flame area of water heater, should be replaced?

texts: There is rust right above the gas flame in our water heater (not outside the water heater as in this question Rust spots on water heater -- time to replace? or on the inside where the sacrificial anode might be an issue).  A repair guy said this indicates a slow leak that could become a big problem all of a sudden, and that we should probably replace the water heater.  The water heater is an American Water HEater Proline model and it is about 12 years old.  Should we replace it?


texts: How to fill 5 inch deep gap above and below window on internal wall

texts:
I've recently had wallpaper stripped and the guy managed to remove two of the PVC window trims in the process. This has exposed a gap between the top of the window and the wall of about 1.5 inches, and the same at the bottom beneath the sill a gap of approx 1 inch on half the length of the sill (see pics). The holes go right back about 5 inches deep. I haven't removed the other two sides of the trim but I can see behind them and the main gap is at the top and bottom of the windows.

I don't like the trim any way so happy to remove all of it, but my question is... how do I fill these gaps before I get the plasterer in? Do I need a tradesman to do this properly or can I do this myself - I am a complete novice with limited DIY experience albeit I am willing to give it a go if simple!

I've read that expanding foam might work, is the right? The room will be skimmed after I get this fixed, will I need to replace the trim afterwards or can I just caulk around the edge of the window to the new skimmed plaster? Any help greatly appreciated on how to fix this.


texts: I'm trying to connect a new light switch but can't seem to figure out what connects with what.  Can someone please help me?  Thank you!


texts: How can/should I repair this roof damage caused by a fallen tree limb?

texts:
A recent rainstorm caused a heavy cypress tree branch to fall on my outdoor office/shed. Thankfully, the interior and underlying structure appears to have not sustained any damage however the asphalt shingles got dinged in three places:

Spot #1: Roof shingle cap ding:

Spot #2: Shingle in the middle of roof:

Spot #3: Shingle on rain drip edge:

I JUST finished the roof a few months ago and it's in otherwise fine shape so I'm reluctant to tear the whole thing up.  Is there anything I can do to patch the damaged area without having to incur a lot of cost?  As far as I can see, the underlayment is still intact.


texts: Will I have problems from waiting to grout patio tiles?

texts:
I laid porcelain tiles on my patio a couple months ago.  Life and weather has kept me from grouting the tile.

Is a couple months between laying the tile and grouting too long?  What problems are likely to result?
How long after a rain should I wait for the tile to dry out before grouting?


texts:
Update: I was asking "What to put in 60A GFCI breakers in Subpanel?"
Answer: maybe The main panel! That is, the main panel would be the subpanel of the 60A GFCI breaker. It's like the main panel and subpanel got swapped!

Detail. I was asking what to put in 60A GFCI breaker in subpanel in case I'd need to swap the 30A to the bath heaters and 60A to other loads. Here is an idea (Harper and others familiar with my setup).

My purely 240v main panel has this remaining loads (all are 30A breakers and all using AWG 10 even to the lights):

What if I'd separate the main breaker and body in the main panel. Then the main breaker would connected to the subpanel. And the main body in main panel would become the subpanel of the 60A output of the original subpanel. Here:

So it's like the subpanel and main panel become swapped. And the original main panel would now be the output of 60A of this original subpanel:

I'd use 60A GFCI breaker number 5. This can totally eliminate all the wire nuts in the original panel above which is due to 3 circuits joined into one breaker. I'd put them in original breaker.

In essence. What to put in 60A GFCI breakers in Subpanel? The main panel (minus the main breaker which will be connected to the subpanel, but rest of main panel will be output of the 60A GFCI breaker).

This way, the entire house will be protected by GFCI. Not only that. Even the entire main panel chassis will be protected too (and it can be covered without fear of electrified chassis since it can trip the 5mA GFCI).

But big question. Can the 60A GFCI breaker have the following loads (the remaining original panel loads and the ones in GFCI breaker 5 to be transferred and added to the loads)?

Aircon 2.4hp room 2 (9A)    (number 1 to 5 is from remaining loads)
Aircon 2.5hp sala (10A)
Aircon 1.5hp room 3 (5A)
Aircon 1hp room 1 (3A)
Lights ground floor (1A), 2nd floor (0.5A), attic (0.5A)
Room 2 outlets (3A) (from original subpanel no. 5 GFCI breaker)
Kitchen outlets (0.5A) (from original subpanel no. 5 GFCI breaker)
Attic outlets (2A) (from original subpanel no. 5 GFCI breaker)

total load is 35A that will use the 60A GFCI breaker output. Again each wiring is AWG 10 and each non GFCI breaker in original panel is 30A.

Will this work? This way the aircons are each in their original 30A breaker.

Brilliant idea or technically flawed? Lol.

original message yesterday:

Last year I bought 6 GFCI breakers. 2 pcs are 60A, 4 pcs are 30A. I initially bought the 60A at amazon because it is the cheapest. I wasn't thinking then about the wire and breaker matching then as I didn't know about it yet.

These are my exact loads presently running. I turned off all the breakers because I just put the 100A main breaker.

Bigger view.

I'm presently using each 60A breaker for 6000W bath heater (I have 2 heaters, each connected separately to 60A breaker as shown in the actual breaker pics). I know 6000W/240v= 25A. Wire used for all are AWG 10. My question. Someone told me I must use 30A for the 25A heater. But even if you have a single TV say 1A, you still use 10A breaker in the house for that single load. So how come I can't use the 25A bath heater in the 60A ampere when it's the only load? I mean, the wiring to the 60A won't overload because the only load is the 25A bath heater and nothing else put on that 60A breaker. At least it should trip if there is a short in the heater. But the AWG 10 which has capacity of 30A to 35A won't melt at all because the only load is 25A heater. So why can't you use it on the 60A breaker? NEC may not allow it. But what is the logical and technical reasoning for it?

Also in case I'll swap the 30A for the heater. What would I put in the 60A GFCI breakers then, the TV or fridges? All the other 4 loads are just low enough that even when I combined many appliances in one breaker. It won't exceed 10A in the rest of the 4 30A GFCI breakers in above label pic.

Thank you.


texts:
I have a kitchen faucet that currently has a faulty dual mode (shower/aerator) nozzle. The nozzle has a 1/2" MIP thread.

I would like the replace the nozzle with a standard aerator, but my local hardware store tells me that such a thing doesn't exist (i.e. 1/2" MIP aerator).

Is this so? Any way to adapt a normal aerator to the thread I have?

Thanks!


texts: Can an existing electrical panel be left in place but rotated 1/4 turn (90 degrees)?

texts:
Odd as it sounds, the few inches gained by simply rotating an electrical panel in its current location just 1/4 turn during our renovation (so that it faces south instead of west) will allow us to install an additional appliance on the wall where we gain those few inches. Should that be feasible with the existing wiring? Would splicing in a few extra inches on one or more circuits if needed be permissible (we're in Washington, DC)? Any downside to doing this if actually doable?  Many thanks,

AE in DC


texts: How wide does a 6x6 concrete post footing needs to be?

texts:
Need to attach 6x6x8 posts for a free-standing pergola - I'll use Strong-Tie anchors attached to the concrete footing.

The hole for the footing will reach well below the freezing line, but how wide should it be?

EDIT

Found these construction guidelines for decks that recommend 14" diameter holes, but not sure if there are other recommendations for pergolas.


texts: Is there a standard warranty period for drywall texture in Florida?

texts: I am evaluating proposals to apply knockdown ceiling to a 25 year old ceiling in Florida.  Is there a standard warranty period or a reasonable warranty period for this this job / type of work?


texts: How do I fix a gap in my refrigerator door gasket seal?

texts:
Today I noticed that the gasket seal surrounding the refrigerator door has a bit of a gap along the lower quarter of the door. The photo below shows my refrigerator door - notice how the white gasket is flush with the refrigerator from the top down to about six inches below the bottom of the door handle, but then there is a gap that starts to grow and runs down to the end of the door.

How would I go about fixing this gap? Do I need to buy a new strip of the door gasket and replace the existing one?


texts: Furnace reaches temp, shuts off but wont come back on

texts:
I have an American Standard furnace (natural gas)with a manufacture date of 2004.

The thing won't come on unless I power it off (have a switch right beside it that serves this purpose), let the fan stop spinning, open and close the kill switch, then power it on again....and it will run just fine until it hits set temperature then goes off as it should.

Then if I want to call for heat again I have to go through the entire process again.

Anyone have any ideas?


texts: How could the location of a radon abatement hole impact its effectiveness?

texts:
The radon level in my partially finished basement is from 8 to 11 pCi/L. I'm looking to have this installed professionally by contractors and the recommendation so far is to create the hole near the outside wall of the house. It seems that the recommendation is being made to make the install easier but I'm uncertain if it's most effective. I do not mind if carpet or drywall needs to be torn up.

Would I see an larger decrease in radon levels if the abatement hole was placed in the middle of the basement rather than in the corner or at the side of the house?


texts: How do I install this flush mount ceiling light fixture?

texts:
I bought a new flushmount ceiling light fixture but no instructions came with it and I have never done this before, so I need some guidance please. First of all here are all the pieces that came with it:

I tried to install B to the ceiling junction box using screws D but they were way too long and I couldn't get them flush with B. They touched the junction box with still an inch to screw. Is it normal that screws D are not flush with B? Should I cut screws D or install B using screws C?

In either case what would be the other screws used for?

Also, nuts E were attached to screws D when I opened up the package.

I am also not sure about all the nuts and washers attached to piece A. I don't know between which pieces they have to be.

Not in the pictures are obvious things like the light glass and the piece that attaches it.

There is no ground wire in my ceiling junction box. Only white and black wires. I think I only have to attach the copper ground wire of the piece on the 2nd picture to the green screw, but I am not sure.


texts: Will a fan motor run in reverse if the receptacles polarity is reversed?

texts: Recently installed a range hood and it's not sucking up smoke very well. It's been uninstalled and checked for obstructions and none have been found. The dampers are opening and closing properly. One at the unit the other on the roof top vent. The unit is a four speed fan (450 to 920 cfm). Using a facial tissue I have to move said tissue to within 1" of the range hood to get it to suck up. I'm no electrician but can follow simple instructions after 40 years of handyman work. The only thing left to my mind is that the fan is running in reverse. So once again my question is: If the receptacle I have plugged this unit into is reversed polarity would that cause the fan motor to run in reverse?


texts:
Okay, I have a main panel that is a 1978 2-wire system with combined neutral/ground bar and a 100amp main disconnect breaker. I'm Replacing it with new 200-amp service and all load wiring has been updated and includes ground wiring. The easiest transformation is to add a room and convert the exterior wall where the old panel is to an interior wall and simply put the new panel facing the new room to meet code and avoid a j-box. The old panel is also in a kitchen cabinet. The meter box is on the exterior opposite the original panel box but is being relocated to a new ext. location.

I installed a temporary power pole main disconnect with 2-2-2-4 SER to run 25' in schedule 40 from the disconnect to the old panel until the room is built. To convert it to a subpanel, do I remove one of the existing ground/neutral bars and replace it with an insulated neutral bar and put all load neutrals on the insulated bar plus the #2 neutral wire from the disconnect and all grounds to the ground bar? I'm assuming the 2-2-2-4 SER Al is rated to enter the house to the panel.

Other than the #4 ground wire from the new disconnect to the old panel, does the subpanel also need a #6 bare copper ground from the ground bar to a copper ground rod? I already have 2 ground rods at the main disconnect on the temp pole.

Lastly, there is already a 4-wire subpanel that I had previously wired from the original panel to a workshop and put a ground to a copper rod at that subpanel. If I have my wiring description above correct, is any of this going to affect the wiring arrangement at the existing subpanel of the workshop?

Thanks for any advice/recommendations.


texts: House built in 1949. Decided to remove half of a closet that was framed out into the bedroom (and taking up too much space) and when the framing was removed it exposed a few layers of paint and what appears to be the original layer of drywall/plaster/sheetrock (not sure exactly what it is, the hospital green in the picture). Got a lead test from Lowe's and while none of it is red that original green surface turned dark pink in areas. Is this definitely lead? What do I do now? So far we haven't sanded this area or otherwise disturbed it since removing the framing. However, now that I see that green, I'm pretty sure I must have been exposed while drilling holes in other parts of the house, or sanded patched and painted other smaller areas. Trying not to freak out. Any advice on what to do with this now that we know would be greatly appreciated!


texts: How to unclog a toilet? (solid object obstruction)

texts:
I just accidentally flushed my toothbrush down the toilet.  (Bathroom multitasking: bad idea.)

The toilet still flushes, but it's draining more slowly.

What should I do?

EDIT

Phew! After 15 harrowing minutes I got it out with a coat hanger.

I've learned my lesson. Multitasking?  Never again.


texts:
Can an amateur DIY'er re-design, demo, and built a new fireplace from an existing masonry fireplace?

Tips and Tricks for following the building code
Tips and Tricks for demo (how far to go)
Tips and Tricks for replacing/adding a mantle


texts: Need help determining if a multiwire branch circuit is wired correctly

texts:
When I opened up my walls for a kitchen remodel I discovered what I'm pretty sure is a multi-wire branch circuit. It has a 12/3 (black + red + white + ground) NM cable going back to the breaker. I think the black wire is attached to breaker 6 (20-amp) and the red to breaker 8 (20-amp) which are both on the same side of the panel stacked one on top of the other. From reading about this it sounds like the white neutral wire is shared for both circuits. I also read that unless this is wired correctly to a double pole breaker so that the current in each circuit is on different phase there could be a fire hazard on the shared neutral.

What are some simple tests I can do to make sure this is wired safely and correctly? The house was built in 1986 so it has been this way all this time and I assume is wired safely and correctly but I want to make sure before closing everything back up. It sounds like the key to this is that the two circuits are on a double pole breaker and each one is wired to a separate pole.