texts: How often should I paint the exterior of my house?

texts:
We're about to have the exterior of our house repainted.  How often should we expect the paint to last?

Location: Metro Atlanta, GA
Surfaces: Wood & Wood Composite Siding (Yes, I know it sucks)
Paint: Sherwin Williams SuperPaint
Colors: Different from the colors already on the house

Also, how much life would a second coat add to the paint?


texts: Is it normal to see variation in manufactured quartz countertop sections?

texts:
I was told that this is a normal variation in quartz counter materials, because the lighter piece is from an island slab and the darker is regular countertop. Is this really true?

Update: After a lot of back and forth, the GC has agreed to change the darker (counter sized) slab. I will post pics when it happens.
Thanks again for the input- it was very helpful.  The GC was so adamant that this was normal that I thought i was going loopy!

On another, related note, he says the installer has never replaced one part of a counter before, and is worried about the seam and even destroying the other slab.  Surely it can't be that hard?


texts: My GFCI tripped and would not reset. I jumpered out the outlet and all power returned to normal. I assumed it was a defective GFCI so I replaced it. Same problem. Power is available at the line side, but when the reset button is pushed the GFCI just trips again. I reversed the wires, thinking that maybe I had line and load reversed, but that didn't work either. I jumpered out the outlet again, and the power came back on downstream. Any suggestions??


texts: Sealing Terminals on 150w Garden Transformer

texts:
I bought a garden transformer to power 2x 12v 50w Halogen lights near the pool.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-12v-150w-garden-light-transformer_p4396752

Should I be concerned that the terminals on the transformer aren't weather sealed?

What can I seal these with to ensure no water enters the terminal in case of rain, splash etc?

Thanks

Scott


texts: Arc-fault breaker in sub panel, pigtail to neutral bus or ground bus?

texts:
I recently replaced an arc-fault breaker in our subpanel that I thought to be faulty (it kept tripping at strange intervals around when I added a new dimmer, but I found no issues with my dimmer install, karmatic misdirection at work).

However, when I opened the sub-panel I found that the old arc-fault breaker had its pigtail tied to the ground bus bar rather than the neutral bus bar on the other side of the subpanel (which I took to be wrong, as described in this other question). The pigtail was long enough to reach either side, so before swapping it, I moved the pigtail to the neutral bus bar. Powered back up, but no good, it was still immediately tripping. Apparently confirming my hypothesis of a faulty breaker. I installed the replacement breaker (actually a combo GFCI/AF) with the pigtail tied to the neutral bus per instructions and it was immediately working without issue (or at least, without taking issue).

Shortly after midnight the same night, my wife and I woke to the outlet behind the (fabric) head of our bed popping and arcing. I immediately went and shut off the new breaker and pulled the outlet out to ensure nothing was on fire.

The house isn't burned down but I'm rather confused on why the arc-fault didn't trip. I feel badly for usurping an apparently incorrectly wired breaker which was trying to save my life and putting in its place an evil and expensive replacement bent on my destruction.

So, is the pigtail supposed to be connected to the ground bus or the neutral bus in the subpanel? Is it possible there is just something else wrong in this subpanel or with the new breaker? What went wrong here?

Unrelated to my question, but for the curious, the cable coming into the bottom of the outlet box is somehow full of water. Yes, the water is welling up from inside the cable. Not enough to dribble into the box, but all the paper inside is soaked and there is a little pool between the wires. I suspect it's related to the recent remodel of the adjacent master bathroom (there was a roof leak created during work that was allegedly fixed). The intermittent tripping of the old breaker, in retrospect, correlated with heavy rain (not uncommon in Oregon).

Update:

I found the water entry point. There is an outdoor outlet on the same side of the house as the one that failed inside. Apparently this indoor box was feeding the outside one. I had looked at the outdoor box already, but it seemed dry. However, as soon as I loosened the bottom screw holding the receptacle in, water came pouring out. The end of the cable inside had been immersed in water, but apparently had no nicks in the wire sheath. Once this water wicked to the inside it cleverly located a nick in the hot wire from eleven years ago when the house was built. In celebration of locating the long lost nick in the wire, the water and cable set off a late night fireworks display.

I've resealed the outdoor receptacle box and left it disconnected from power since they're not getting along. I'll try pulling a new cable through when it stops raining sometime in August next year.

I'll be exchanging the evil breaker, but as its own test button was working fine, I have no way to confidently test the new one in a real situation.

I'm happy about all of this because it allowed me to justify to my wife the purchase of a Fluke tone generator and probe. Because, you know, our lives were at stake.


texts: How can I repair a desk with crumbled chip board where the cam bolt holes should be?

texts:
I have an old desk which must have been held together mostly by strength of will, since when we disassembled it for a move, we found that all of the cam bolts were sat in crumbled holes in the chip board.

I kept all of the bolts, hoping to refit them, but few of the holes have enough strength to take the bolts being screwed back into them.

I have been trying to think of ways to resurrect this desk, and so far have come up with several options.

Fit the bolts back into their original positions using glue or epoxy resin to fill in the missing chipboard.

I have no idea what sort of glue/resin would be suitable or whether it would be strong enough.

If I go for this option, what do I need to look for in a glue/epoxy?

Drill out new holes for the cam bolts.

It looks like I would have to be very careful to get the position correct, and then be very careful to drill the holes perfectly square.

Replace the cam bolts with furniture bolts and barrel nuts.

This will mean unsightly bolt heads on the desk sides and worktop.

Just glue the desk back together.

This would mean that I wouldn't be able to take it apart again, so was discounted as an option.

These are all of the options I can see for the moment, but are there any other options I should consider?


texts: How to utilize empty electrical boxes in drywall

texts:
Builder left a few blank outlet covers in my garage, opened one of them today trying to see if I can use it for my security camera, saw an empty electrical box behind it. Picture attached below.

It's a new construction so I'm pretty sure no outlet was installed there. Why my builder left those? Whats the use of them?

Thanks!


texts: How should I prepare a concrete slab for plank porcelain tiles?

texts:
I have several questions about laying plank porcelain tile on a concrete slab.
First do I need to get 100% of the glue from the concrete floor, there are small spots and patches here and there that still have a very thin layer on it.  I used glue remover to get as much as I could off.
Secondly there is paint spots on the floor from when the house was first built, do I have to remove 100% of this material, I scrapped and scrapped and I am getting tire of it.  There are also spots left from when I sprayed texture, does this have to remove 100%.

My final question is should I should I use self leveling concrete on the slab, I notice when I poured water on the floor there where some low spots, what is acceptable and what isn't?


texts: LED Bulbs - Which Measure is the Best Indicator Of Efficiency

texts:
I have been on a mission to slow replace all the bulbs to LEDs. At first, I use to judge the LED bulb's efficiency by looking at the % Energy Saving, that all bulbs have at the front of the box. However, I realised, its not a good measure of the bulb's efficiency.

So now I look at the two measures : wattage & lumens and divide the lumens by wattage to get the efficiency of the LED bulb I am purchasing. As an example, I try to go for a bulb which is atleast 100 lumens / watt. Unfortunately, most of the LEDs I have already installed are well below that (going around 85 lumens / watt).

My question is, is this the correct way to judge? How does one tell which are the most efficient bulbs on the market?


texts: Can this sheetrock be repaired or does it need to be replaced?

texts: Removed formica backsplash made a huge mess. Can it be repaired, and if so, how?


texts: How can I install this automatic transfer switch?

texts: I currently have a Gentran 3028 subpanel connected to a 12,000 watt generator over a 30 AMP branch and the utility/main panel over a 60 AMP branch.  I want to replace the Gentran with a APC UTS10BI.  I would like to mount the APC more than the recommended one foot distance away from the utility/main panel.  The APC can use a UPS as an alternate power source until I can get the generator running.  This is also the reason I need to mount the APC away from the utility/main panel.  There isn't enough floor space for a rack mounted UPS system near the main panel.  My question is how much of a gauge drop do I need to make to cover the 18 to 20 foot distance?  The installation manual recommends a utility line of "Circuit: 12 AWG Two Neutral:10 AWG".  If I drop the circuit to 10 AWG and the two neutral to 8 AWG would that be safe?


texts: Home: Using Exhaust & Circulating Fans to Improve Air Quality While Staying Cool

texts:
In the hopes of ventilating nasty odors and airborne contaminants, I recently installed the Bionaire BW2300 in one of my kitchen windows. This is the only one I have installed in my home at the moment. I leave it on 24/7 with the AC running at 82 degrees. Outside temperatures during the day hover around the 90s. So far the AC turns on and off intermittently for 5 - 10 minutes every half hour. (Trying to reduce my energy bills as well. Last month was $190.)

This morning I discovered that -- in combination with the exhaust fan -- the overall room temperature falls 2 degrees if I place a circulating fan between the short corridor that separates my living room and kitchen. I positioned it in a way that air is being pushed toward the exhaust fan.

Now my idea is to place between 1 - 3 Vornado 270s in the small corridor as well as the main hallway. The main hallway separates the living room from the three bedrooms. So it's basically t-shaped with the central AC located at the point where the "two lines of the T"  intersect and form right angles.

I don't know what I'm doing, but based on my experiences so far I'm guessing it'd be beneficial to position each of these fans so that air travels from the hallway, into the living room, and then through the kitchen to the exhaust fan. That's from one end of my home (vicinity of the central AC) to the other (kitchen/patio).

So what do you think about my idea of using multiple fans to draw and force air from one end of my home to the other end? My goal is to use the exhaust fan to vent excess heat and to improve air quality.

Additional information: I have only one exhaust fan for security reasons, so I can't position a window intake/exhaust fan anywhere else. Circulating fans are fine. In addition, my family has seen a noticeable disruption in the air flow when the front door is opened (opposite end of home). The rotation of the exhaust fan's blades slows down momentarily.


texts:
I've read How can I add a "C" wire to my thermostat? and checked out the Venstar Add-A-Wire Accessory. I've watched Honeywell's YouTube video on "DIY Wi-Fi Thermostat Substitute G-Wire for C-Wire," but I don't have a terminal block to move the G-Wire (Fan on) as described in the video. This is where I'm stuck.

What options (if any) do I have to re-wire this to work with a wireless thermostat that requires a C-Wire?

Old thermostat: Honeywell RTH2310

New thermostat: Honeywell RTH6580WF

Wiring diagram w/old thermostat

Furnace

Junction

Old Thermostat


texts: showerhead for showers with little water?

texts:
My shower delivers a very-low 1.4GPM. I checked by removing the current shower-head, and filling 1-gallon bottles for a minute.

What shower-head will help me with such low water pressure?

Thanks.


texts: Shower water temperature has changed in 2 of our upper level bathrooms...one is scalding hot & one is freezing cold!

texts: We have 3 upper level bathrooms where the shower temp has drastically changed in "2" of them. Our master bedroom shower all of a sudden only puts out only COLD water & my son's shower is scalding HOT? This happened to coincide immediately after we had a new refrigerator delivered from H. Depot and the service/delivery person shut our main water supply off while setting up the refrigerator? Our water heater is only 1 year old...how do we fix this! Could it have anything to do with them shutting the main water supply off while getting our fridge set up?


texts: How can I add a "C" common wire to this system?

texts:
I would like to add a "C" / Common wire hookup to my hvac system and get a fancy new thermostat. I've read How can I add a "C" wire to my thermostat? and still have some questions.

First of all, I have an Apollo Hydroheat system. Unusual system I gather. My house has two zones (upstairs and downstairs), both thermostats are connected the same way with four wires:

R - Red, G - Green, Y - Yellow, W - White

Luckily for me, the cable connecting the hvac to the thermostat has unused wires (orange, brown, blue, etc), so I shouldn't need to actually run any new cables.

I found an installation manual for an Apollo Hydronic air handler that has a wiring diagram. The PDF of the Apollo installation manual is here and the wiring diagram is on page 8.

Any thoughts as to whether or not it would be easy to add a live "C" wire? Do I need an external transformer? Can I literally just get a transformer, plug it into a wall outlet, and connect the "C" wire to that?


texts: AC air handler turning off when compressor comes on

texts: Trane air handler blower works fine in manual mode with heat/cool setting off. When switched to cool position, compressor comes on but blower turns off.


texts: 200 Amp Service upgrade Failed Inspection NJ

texts:
Im a Licensed Contractor and very comfortable with working on electric. That being said, my new home had underground 200 amp service and we could not disconnect the power so I used a licensed electrician to replace the exterior meter box that had rotted and install a new D Square 200 amp QO box (so I didn't have to work with the live 200 amp wires..). I thought he did a fantastic job looked clean and functioned great. Inspector came and Failed it, part one was for not replacing a piece of sheetrock next to the box (I left it off so he could see everything... Easy fix thought). The second Part stated "Multi Wire Circuits 2P CB on a approved tie Bar". I have no idea WTF this means lol. I wire outlets/lights and occasionally add a breaker for a new line. When I asked the inspector what this means he stated that the electrician would understand and it would take him 10 minutes to fix... My electrician bailed on me & won't return phone calls. I'd rather not call in a second electrician for something I'm sure I can fix myself. If anyone has any insight, please let me know.

Side note: All my wires in my house are BX with the exception of one is Romex added years later. My box does not have a separate ground bar in the box instead he tied the neutrals into the left side of the box and tied the grounds into the right. I was thinking the inspector wants a separate ground bar in the box the BX neutrals are fine on the left and the 1 Romex wire he wants that neutral on the Right. I

Breaking down what the Inspector said "Multi Wire Circuits 2P CB on a approved tie Bar" I presume means Multiple wire circuits 2 Pole on Circuit Breaker on approved tie bar? I just don't know what this means needs to happen to fix the problem lol

Thanks in in advance hope I explained this well enough.

Daniel


texts: To wire a chandelier I have attached it to already installed ceiling recessed lights. I bought a Appliance Power Cord and attached to one of the ceiling lights and the plug to a female plug attached to wire from the chandelier. Can this create fire in attic? Also the dimmer for the ceiling lights gets hot if not fully open.


texts: Does the Plywood Around the Toilet Flange Need to be Replaced?

texts: How do I tell if the plywood around this toilet flange needs to be replaced? As you can see in the lovely pic below, the wood is discolored. (The house is 50 yrs. old.) But, if I tap it with a screwdriver, it doesn't gouge. It's not mushy. Am I good to go?


texts: Specific name of this faucet / sink type

texts:
I'm having a heck of a time finding a replacement faucet for this sink. I was hoping someone could enlighten me as to if there's a specific name for this type of sink/faucet that might help me locate one easier.

Notice the the raised area the faucet sits on the sink at, also the pieces from left to right are what looks like maybe a broken soap dispenser, a pull/push drain control for the left basin, then the faucet, then another drain control for the right basin, and on the furthest right is the hose sprayer thing (not sure of the correct verbiage for any of this).

The Sink is a 3 basin porcelain sink. The (I'll just call it a "cap") that the faucet and stuff sits on seems very unique. I understand I'll likely try to have to re-use this "cap" piece along with the original pull/pull drain plug controls for the basins, but I have no idea what you would call the rest of this setup. Everywhere I've looked I only seem to find the contemporary standard ones that sit on top of a flat surface as one piece but can't find a setup to replace this for the life of me.

So any insight would be appreciated! Thanks.


texts: Are there outward signs of a French drain?

texts: I'm wondering whether my house has a French drain to keep water away from the foundation. Is there a way to find out that doesn't involve digging up the yard? (I.e., would there be any above-ground indications?) Or do I just need to start digging and see what I find?


texts: Will 300 watts of electricity ruin a 288Watt LED light bar

texts:
I bought this LED light bar:

Light Bar

It has an operating voltage of 10-30DC and consumes 288 Watts of power. I also bought a 12V 30Amp Power supply that allows me to adjust the voltage like this one:

Power Supply

So I can adjust it down to the light's minimum of 10V, but at 30 amps, I'm sending 300 Watts of electricity into the light. So my question is will the extra 12 watts break the LED Light bar? Or am I safe to use it?

Thanks!


texts: Checking voltage on a 240 volt thermostat

texts:
Very basic electrical question.
I have a non-functioning double pole thermostat (wired to an electric baseboard).
I'd like to replace it, but of course my breakers are not labeled.
Is there any way to use a simple voltage tester to identify the circuit? (Or, does the fact that there's no neutral wire mean that you can't find a voltage drop? (Thinking back a few decades to Physics 101))
If not, what can I do?


texts: Nail gun driver doesn't return after firing

texts:
The hammer on my Bostitch SB 1664 fails to return to fire position. Did take out a wrong size nail since the jam it has failed. Can you tell me what the problem is?
Thanks, Owen S


texts: What's the best ratio for sand-only concrete?

texts: I'm making concrete countertops, so sand-only is the way to go to reduce voids in the forms. (I've done a half dozen samples). I've looked everywhere for mix ratios, but it's a weird request, and I can only find either concrete with aggregate ratios, mortar ratios, or someone wants me to give them a bunch of money to tell me 3 numbers. My best guess is 0.5 water/1 cement/2 sand/ 0.0035 superplasticizer. The sample looks fine, and doesn't break when I hit it with a hammer... but I'm just worried that I'm doing it wrong, and it's going to crumble in 3 months or something.


texts:
I want to raise my hot tub to the level of my deck. My deck is 50" high and my hot tub is 29" inches high and is a smaller 4/5 person tub. I have a concrete slab in place from an old hot tub. I was thinking to add two layers of cinder blocks and then a layer of thick pavers to reach the height. My slab is a bit uneven (about 1 to 1.5 inches) so was thinking to put some gravel down first.

In the end it would be 1) concrete slab 2) gravel layer to level 3) two layers of cinder blocks 4) one layer of thick pavers 5) treated plywood to ensure levelness 6) hot tub, which would then be level with the deck.

Is this a bad idea in your opinion or would it provide sufficient support? I'm wondering specifically if having so many layers would cause any instability at that height or if it's low enough to be ok.

Thanks for your input!


texts: Which valves should I close when blowing out my sprinklers for the winter?

texts: I was thinking of blowing out my own sprinklers this year because it seemed pretty straight forward and I am handy enough to do it. I get the basics: shut off main water, connect air compressor to system, open one zone at a time. Here is a picture of my backflow system. From what I would assume, I would turn off the valve to the right (probably the main shutoff), keep the valve on the left open and make an air compressor fitting for the pipe coming off of it that is capped currently. Does this seem correct? This is the box the sprinkler people go to for spring and winter maintenance.


texts: Code exception for not installing AFCIs in kitchens?

texts:
I'm having an electrician replace my old Zinsco panel with a new Eaton panel. My understanding is that all the 120V 15A and 20A circuits for the house (no basements, garages, etc) need to have AFCI or for the kitchen and laundry combined AFCI/GFCI (none of the outlets are GFCI). My city still references NEC 2014, and I read section 210.12

When I asked him to put AFCIs on all the circuits, he responded:

  These breakers are confused by motor circuits, so the code gives us
  an exception for dedicated circuits, like fridges and laundry
  machines

Is this true? I didn't see anything in the code about this.

He is not changing the wiring, just moving the circuits to a new panel, so maybe this exception is relevant?

  NEC 210.12: Existing installations are not required to be updated with ARC-fault
  protection unless modification to the wiring is done.

  Exception: AFCI protection shall not be required where the extension
  of the existing conductors is not more than 1.8 m (6 ft) and does not
  include any additional outlets or devices.

Is he correct about exceptions for fridges, laundry, etc?


texts: How much gap to leave between basement concrete floor and bottom of drywall board?

texts: We have a dry basement with a concrete floor.  When putting on the wall boards, how much (if any) gap should there be between the concrete floor and the bottom of the board?   The boards are 3/8 inch, I was thinking about using a scrap piece drywall on the ground and then resting the board on top of it while installing, and then pulling it out when finished.


texts:
I'm looking for a good way to correct and arrest horizontal splitting of some floor joists where they rest on the top-plate below.

The joists are 2"x8" (nominal), spaced 12" OC, and the ends away from the central beam rest on the top-plates of the basement's exterior walls. The joists are each about 14' long, but I don't see any signs of trouble in the middle, for example sagging. AFAICT, each joist-end is held in place by a single toe nail into the top-plate below, and whatever nails come in form the subflooring above.

Many of the joists have cracks, either hairline or larger, starting at the end of the joist resting on the top plate, and extending several inches towards the far end of the joist.  I suspect this was caused by (a) the toe-nailing and (b) 50 years of load.

Edit: some examples:

Note: The first picture is getting rotated against my will. In reality the window is below the joist.

The worst splitting seems to happen with joists that were bottom-notched to support plumbing:

Just another example. The existence of the hole in the center seems to result in a longitudinal crack, but it doesn't appear problematic (yet).

My ultimate goal is to ensure the structural integrity of the framing. Ideally without sistering the joists, because that would cause various additional hassles.

So I'm thinking to reinforce the problematic joists ends using steel L-brackets, so as to resist the horizontal spreading of the joist wood where it's resting on the top-plate. By adding a bracket on both sides of each joist, I hope to fully prevent any horizontal splitting of the joist.

Edit: a rough sketch of one such bracket installation:

Any thoughts on the viability of this approach?


texts: Leveling-smoothing an exterior cement patio

texts:
I paid for a 16' x 16' cement slab to be laid down so I can build a shade spot for BBQ and enjoying the evenings. My problem is that I did not want a rough surface. I want to be able to walk out in bare feet to have morning coffee.

I told the guy that. Guess what? Yep, it has small rocks on the surface. What is the least expensive way to level this my self?


texts: What is a heavy, dense wood for a soundproof door assembly I am putting together?

texts:
I am going to attempt to create my own door assembly (frame, door, etc) for my soundproofing project and am looking for very dense, heavy wood.  The first wood that comes to mind is oak, but I suspect that will be incredibly expensive.  However, if that's really the only wood that would do the job then I guess I'd be willing to pay for it.  I prefer types of wood that are typically readily available through retailers like Lowe's, Home Depot, and the like.

Note that is a separate inquiry from door sweeps and other add-ons.  This is solely about the door and frame itself.


texts: Does "stacked switch with two separate legs, one 3-way and one dimmer" electrical part exist?

texts:
I have a very old house built from adobe. I have a workman trying to make a connection for a chandelier where there was previously no connection and he says he needs something to do this that he thinks doesn't exist. I told him to tell me and I'd search the internet. He says he needs a

  stacked switch with two separate switch legs, one 3-way and one dimmer

so it's out to you experts to tell me if this exists?


texts: Why are their connected pairs of black and white wires in my light and switch boxes?

texts:
I'm looking to replace (what I thought would be) a simple light fixture and switch.
Upon opening up the box, replacing the cables and doing some testing I have found some strange results. I do believe I'm dealing with a switch loop but I am unsure as to how to rectify my issue

The white wire in the 3rd picture (wall switch) is HOT (not labeled, but i tested it with a non contact voltage tester)
If I connect the items, how I think they should be connected, i get almost no power to the light (its very dim) and does not get controlled by the dimmer itself.
I also don't understand why there are two tied off white/black tied together in each location (perhaps for some of the outlets?)
Any help would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Is there a downside to using epoxy grout?

texts: Other than cost and more complexity of install is there a downside to using epoxy grout?


texts:
I am planning to remove carpet in a living room and dining room area of my house and replace it with floating laminate flooring. There are some spots in my current floor that squeak so I was planning on using an impact driver to drive down some screws from above the subfloor to the joists below.

I currently did not remove my carpet or tack strips yet but I was wondering is there a trick to find the joists underneath the subfloor? Also, what screws would be best for this job? I was currently looking at Senco 08F200Y Duraspin Number 8 by 2-Inch Subfloor Collated Screws. I didn't know what length of screw would be best for the job.

Also, underneath my living room and dining room subfloor is my basement which is unfinished so I could look up to see where the joists are. For the most part they are 24 inches apart on center however there are some joists which are slightly less than 24 inches apart and in some areas its about 16 inches apart.


texts:
i would like to place a receptacle outside my house. i have found a couple of this two black and green wires on the wall. i was wondering if there is the possibility of wiring a receptacle here. it is worth noting that this is outside. any thought as to what this may be?
as always thank you


texts: Drywall installation when ceiling joists lower at the edge

texts:
I am trying to install ceiling drywall and everything is fine until I reach the edge.

You can see there are 3 2x8 joists at the edge and it's somehow positioned 1/2" to 1" lower than the rest. So my drywall basically flush to the bottom of the 2x8 lumbers.

My questions are:

Is it OK to just putting drywall compound and paper and sand this 6" area? I think it will terribly crack later due to wood vs. drywall movement.
If not, how best to cover this area and make it smooth with the rest of the ceiling without having to use any trim/moulding?

Thanks.

UPDATE 1

Here is another photo at the corner where the joist lumber is almost 1/2" lower:

Could I use Floor Ram Board such as https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ram-Board-38-in-x-50-ft-Temporary-Floor-Protection-Roll-RB-38x50/202823781 to nail and create a smooth transition?
Could I use 1/4" plywood with 3 feet width and mount as in the green area below? Then I can slowly mud the 1/4" thickness difference to spread for maybe 1-2 feet more.
Would "Rock Hard Water Putty" (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rock-Hard-1-Water-Putty-1-lb-Cream-Powder/23217846) work to fill the gap and not use anything else? I have tried this before and it's as hard as wood once dried.


texts: Greenboard behind acrylic panel in shower

texts: I've been reading a bit about bathroom drywall options, and have seen that "greenboard" water-resistant drywall is not recommended for use in the shower/tub wet areas for tile backing. Does that hold true regardless of what material is installed on top? We are having floor-to-ceiling acrylic panels installed for the shower. It seems these would be less water permeable in the long term, since there's no grout to deteriorate and allow water to seep through. But is it acceptable/up to code to install these acrylic panels on top of greenboard? Location is NJ, USA.


texts: Running AC/Heater when washing a cleanable filter

texts:
I have a heat pump/AC system with a washable air filter. I was told to clean the filter out and run water through it once a month.

He told me to let the filter dry for 3 hours before replacing it. I had a different tech tell me, however, to shake the water out of the filter and put it right back in.

So that leaves me with two questions.

Is it safe to run my AC/heat without a filter for 3 hours?
Is it safe to put a wet filter back into the unit?

Thanks for all help in advance!

edit:  My filter looks something like [this one][http://i0.wp.com/www.anthonydpmann.com/upload/2017/09/28/goodman-permanent-filter-to-fit-in-goodman-air-handler-goodman-furnace-filters-l-8c8fd9b9ed6663af.jpg?w=200&strip=all] and measures 15 x 21 x 1.  I looked around and was not able to find any disposable filters that size.  Would it be safe to use a disposable one instead of the permanent one?


texts: Putting a recessed light in over the shower unit

texts: There is 1 ordinary light in the bathroom. ( old house ) im going to change this to a ledlight, then i am going to wire from this light to put an IP65 recessed light over the shower unit. Is it ok to wire it from the centre light ? Or do i need to wire it from the switch ? Would i need to change the wiring in bathroom for this ?


texts: Using Zinzer BIN primer (shellac base) on previously waxed pine furniture

texts:
I have a piece of pine furniture that has been waxed (not stained) that I have been wanting to paint for years.  Finally started the project. I tried sanding, but the sand paper got coated with the wax, so not very successful on that end.  I was told I should scrub the wax off using mineral spirits, then go over it with the BIN's with shellac incorporated in it.  WOW, is it THIN!  So, my questions are:

Do I need to remove the wax first then prime with BIN, then paint (latex paint)?
Can I skip the mineral spirits, do the BIN's and paint - will paint adhere if wax is still left on?
What is the best way to apply this runny BIN stuff?  I'm doing this in my condo carpeted living room-LOTS of plastic on floor.
Is there a better easier way?


texts: Fastening aluminum fascia to wooden subfascia

texts:
As I understand it, one should pre-drill the hole for the fastener to prevent dimpling.

Should the Aluminum fascia be fastened with a nail or screw?
What is the preferred spec for the fastener?

I am new at this so any lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.


texts: Is 15/32" Plywood okay for Subfloor under tile?

texts:
Is 15/32" plywood thick enough to be used as a subfloor under tile combined with a 1/4" hardiebacker board?

The joists underneath are 2x8s that are 16" apart on center and only 4' long.


texts: Half of my lights and oulets are not working after heavy winds?

texts: We have solar panels and mains power. Last night was very windy; we heard quite a few bangs from outside and thought it might be the wires getting knocked together. Woke up this morning and we have power to everything except the lights and our stove. We have a smart meter and it has no pulse light. What do you think could be the problem. Is it a main fuse coming into house before the meter?


texts: Goodman motherboard with broken/cut wire

texts: I have 2 Goodman furnaces with the same issue. In the middle of the motherboards there is a plug with a red wire and blue wire, and a white wire loop - pictured. My white looped wire is broken or cut. Any thoughts on this? Can I just attach the ends, or is there a reason to leave them apart? It’s been like that for 10 years and both units work fine. Thanks!


texts: After blowing heat the fan won't stop, continue blowing cold air for prolonged period of time (30+ min)

texts:
Not always, but often the furnace continue blowing cold air after blowing heat. It may blow cold air for more than 30 minutes. Under this conditions I also see the error code (8 red flashed) "Ignition lockout due to recycles".

Is there anything that I can easily adjust/a part to replace? Here is how the furnace looks:
Adding observed sequence. After a day thermostat on OFF, I switched it to heat and the very first sequence was fine - inducer blower first, then bright orange ignition, then click and steady blue gas flame, then blower fan, then after several minutes all off (and the diagnostic LED slow green "all normal"). However the second sequence, several minutes after the first sequence, revealed the problem:

Thermostat is on heat
Inducer blower ON (diagnostics LED slow yellow)
Bright orange ignition light ON
A click, blue flame ON, but after a few seconds it's OFF
The steps #3 and #4 repeat about four or five times
Orange ignition light OFF, inducer fan OFF, blower fan ON, the diagnostic LED 8 red flash "Ignition lockout due to recycles". Blows continuously for until I turn the furnace power off.


texts: How to replace a razor only outlet with a gfci

texts: So when I opened the razor only outlet, I found 2 wires connected to either a pair of white and black wires. I'm not sure how to determine which white goes with which black. Help?


texts: I have an old enamel wash basin that I’d like to use as a photography prop. It has some rusty spots, which actually just lend character so I don’t mind them. But I want to make sure it is safe for the little ones. Is there a way to seal it off nicely?  Thank In advance for your advice!


texts: four way switch to three way for vent fan

texts:
Currently there is a ventilation switch on the wall, which has 14/2 leading to a relay which will turn on my furnace and newly installed HRV. It also turns on the bathroom fan in the nearby bathroom.
However the bathroom fan switch ONLY turns on the bathroom fan on and off.  And again the furnace fan switch will turn on the 'furnace' (again via relays etc) and the bathroom fan
I will attach a photo I drew and some explanation;

Power comes into bathroom junction box
splits via marrett to lower terminal on 2 way fan switch and to black wire on 14/3 wire to furnace fan switch
black 14/3 wire (energized) goes to BOTH BLACK terminals on 4 way switch
Red wire from 14/3 goes on upper brass terminal of 4 way switch to the load wire of the bathroom fan switch (this is key)
Black wire on 14/2 wire to furnace goes from lower brass terminal on 4 way switch

So the interesting thing here which I have never seen before is my 4th point above, where if you look at my diagram, the red wire on the 14/3 is connected to the load wire just above the 2 way bathroom fan switch. meaning current can go down red wire from furnace switch to the bath fan and bypass the 2 way switch.  However when the 2 way switch is operated (bathroom fan turned on) and current is sent down the red wire to the 4 way, the 4 way switch ignors this and does not trigger the furnace fan.
this picture shows the bathroom fan wiring

these show the furnace switch, note the 14/3 from bathroom is on the left and the 14/2 to furnace is on the right..

I would like to replace this switch with a timer switch, which i purchased a three way timer switch;
Lutron MA-T51MN-WH
And i would like it to behave exactly how the previous switch worked, that is the bathroom switch only controls bathroom fan but the timer switch will turn on both
I tried installing the new three way timer and in most cases behaves as a three way, where if the bathroom fan is turned on/off while the furnace fan switch is on, the red wire becomes un-energized and furnace fan turns off.  As well the furnace fan switch I believe did not turn on the bathroom fan, though I suspect this is because the bathroom is not a 3 way.
I know this is a long shot and it sucks because there is no 4 way timer switches on the market.  But I am hoping if I swap the bathroom fan switch out with another 3 way (or 4 way???), there is the possibility of recreating what I currently have... Basically my question is;
how can I switch my ventilation switch to a timer switch which at best could be a 3way
edit: I realize I am an idiot for assuming it was a 4 way switch. its a dual pole switch.


texts:
Are there good options for attaching roof eaves/overhangs essentially as cantilevered beams with a fixed support? This is a monoslope (lean-to) roof with a 2:12 pitch (~9.46 deg), unheated structure, and I'd like to "bury" the rafters so that they hang more like ceiling/floor joists instead of sitting on top of the carrying beams.

The design roof load is 90 psf (dead + snow load) and the rafters are spaced 24" O.C., overhangs are 2', thus each eave has a load tributary area of 4 sq ft and needs to carry 360 lb.

Can I use something like this rafter connector? Will that meet code?

Another option I thought about is attaching the eave rafter with a couple of bolts through the carrying beam:

Is there a name for this type of connection? I'm not quite sure how to evaluate the stress.


texts:
There is a four switch light plate, 2 switches haven't worked since we've lived here (almost a year). Well, the two switches that don't work control the front porch lights. The gutters we badly clogged which I think had created some major issues, leakage especially. As you can see from the first picture, the wires are exposed to the leakage, which has created problems.

When I removed the light plate, it smelled very musty - the light switches were badly rusted, especially the two that don't work. My first job is to clean rusty wires and replace the switches. My dad told me they are 'chained' to the first one.  The next job is to unscrew the front porch fixture, take a look at its condition, and assuming it's good to go (or once it is) fill the gaps with spray foam.

Am I on the right track? How do these switches look? Should I undo the daisy chaining?


texts: Am I able to replace these water valves on my hot water oil heater?

texts: We just moved into a new house.  We had a plumber come out for a non related issue on out oil burning hot water heater and brought these corroded valves to my attention that he said needed to be replaced.  I see the corrosion and am wondering if these can be cleaned up or if they really need to be replaced. If they do need replaced can it be done safely by myself?  If it needs to be done by a plumber or HVAC tech is it an easy fix? Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I will attach a couple pictures of the worst water valves. Thank you.


texts: Is this faucet supposed to be able to twist (on its vertical axis)

texts:
I just moved into this house and I don't know what kind of faucet this is (no label anywhere).

The head of the faucet comes out, but the whole faucet is essentially stuck in the middle.  It gets annoying when I'm trying to wash things in the sink and want to move the faucet out of the way.  Do you guys know if this faucet is supposed to be able to move, and it's just stuck in its current place?


texts: How can I install ceramic tile over vinyl tile?

texts:
I'm trying to install ceramic tile in a friend's bathroom, appox. 45 sq ft.
The current floor in the bathroom is vinyl squares over the base cement.  There is no subfloor or anything like that. The bathroom is in the basement. I tried pulling off the vinyl but it's leaving a thick yellowish glue behind.
What's the best / easiest process to install ceramic floor over the existing floor?


texts: Is it OK for OSB3 boards to get wet during construction?

texts:
In the UK it rains, as you know. a lot.

Is it OK for OSB3 boarding to get wet now and then during the construction of a building? or will it be completely destroyed like chip board or MDF (which absorbs liquid, expands then falls apart)


texts:
What size, type, and grade of lumber would I need to use as joists to support wire decking used for pallet racks over an 11-foot overhead span?

42D" x 46W" wire decks supporting up to 2,500 lbs. are commonly available
online.
This is industrial-strength wire decking but my intended use would be general purpose overhead garage storage so I'm not looking for 5,000 lbs. per span.  1,000 lbs. would be nice, if possible.

According to one manufacturer, their wire decks can be supported by a 1.5 inch wide beam, so 2x lumber would be a fit.  My plan would be to use 2 46" wide decks over each 11' span, so each set of decking would be supported by 2 joists 42 inches apart connected to wood beams (ledger boards) anchored to the cement block side walls.

The garage is 11' wide, so shorter or longer spans are out.  Steel pallet beams are out as an 11' span is not a standard size (not to mention mounting considerations).

I'm turning to this forum in desperation.  After hours of searching online it seems that I am the only person in the world to come up with this idea.  The only links returned by search engines only seem to be ones that want to sell you something.

I see a number of span/sag calculators online but none seem to fit these parameters.

I might be getting the hang of this. It apears that the design of the racking transfers the load direcly onto the beams.

According to the SFPA tables, a #1 2x6 over a 12 ft. span could support a total load of 41 lbs./lineal foot with L/240 sag.  Interpolate for an 11 foot span and you wind up with ~50 lbs./lineal ft.

Double that because the weight would be distributed between two joists and you wind up with ~100 lbs./ft., suggesting that a 1,000 lb. load is practical.  Would probably have to derate for commodity lumber grade.

Probably still qualifies as an experiment though.


texts: Why does Simpson Strong Tie require nails that would protrude beyond the rafter they're penetrating?

texts:
Why does Simpson Strong Tie require 2-1/2" nails for the H2.5A connector when the rafter is only 1-1/2 inches thick? The nails into the rafter protrude 1".
The requirement is listed in the table on page 271 of the Simpson Strong Tie 2019-2020 catalogue. I am nailing the H2.5A connector into the double top plate and the rafter.


texts: Electrical - converting 3-way to single pole for multiple fixtures

texts:
My kitchen has 4 ceiling lights that are all on a 3-way switch (one switch at each end of the room). I would like to separate them and put 2 lights on one switch (single pole) and 2 lights on the other switch (single pole).

Can someone provide a wiring diagram for this?

The house was recently professionally rewired (before we bought it) so I'm hoping everything looks nice and tidy once I open up the boxes.

Thanks!


texts: Kitchen remodel to studs, infilling a window, no insulation, no building wrap!

texts:
looking for some urgent feedback.

My Husband and I are remodeling our kitchen.  We're down to the studs, and two of the walls are exterior.  The house is a 1920's bungalow.  We're actually making our kitchen a bit smaller, and in order to put the new interior wall where we needed to, we have to remove one of the 4 windows in our kitchen.

We're doing the work ourselves (I'm an architect, but work in the commercial market), and are meeting codes and have been permitted.

So here's my issue, which we discovered this morning when we took out the window.  The walls were lathe and plaster, that has all been removed.  My house has no insulation, which we knew.  However, when we removed our exterior window, we also found out that the house has no building wrap.  It has 1 layer of wood shiplap sheathing, one layer of old ship lap siding, and the final layer of cedar shingles, which are painted.

The area we are infilling is about 36x48.  Initially, my intent was to put up plywood sheathing to match the depth out to the old shingles, put the building paper over it, and then put the new shingles on, and paint.  However there doesn't seem to be a point to do building wrap in this one area, since it isn't anywhere else in the house.

It also does seem to make sense to insulate the walls.  In fact, that seems like it would be a really bad idea given that there is no building wrap.  Any moisture that gets through my several layers of siding would sit in the insulation and could cause issues.

So I'm tempted to just infill the the window with studs and plywood, put shingles on, and not insulate before I put up the drywall.  I'm not sure if the code official will give us any issue on that (I'm in portland, and we're a little looney with the energy code.

It's a toss up for me on the building paper - on one hand, it's kind of silly, on the other hand I could use it to bridge the gap between where we put the plywood in to where it matches the shingles.

Any thoughts or tips?  I'm just at a bit of a loss.  I've requested an urgent response as I'm sitting in my living room with a big hole in my house!

Thanks,
Kim


texts: Installing cable trunking on ceiling without damaging the ceiling paper

texts:
I'm renting. I need to install this trunking on the ceiling for my projector's cables. In that room, ceiling is covered with wallpaper. If I use the adhesive feature that comes with it, I'm afraid that the day I move out and remove trunking, wallpaper will come with it.

Any suggestion?


texts: Does window screen frame thickness matter? 5/16" vs 7/16"

texts:
I am building some new window screens for a couple of the windows in our house.
I am debating whether to use a 5/16" thick frame or a 7/16" thick frame. By my measurements, our windows can accommodate a frame thickness of up to 9/16".
In reality, does this thickness actually affect the strength and durability of the screen? The 5/16" frame is slightly cheaper. Are there good reasons to spend the extra money on the 7/16" frame?


texts: Electrician connected LED dimmer to halogen bulbs, worried about safety

texts:
An electrician replaced a rotary dimmer with another one that is rated for LED GU10 bulbs. The six existing halogen bulbs connected to the dimmer weren't replaced however.
The electrician said that everything seems to work fine, and he said LED GU10 bulbs didn't work because there are currently transformers connected to each light fitting, and they need to be removed.
This is the dimmer he used: https://www.jung.de/en/online-catalogue/367389337/
I don't understand how he got the dimmer to work with halogen bulbs and I am worried that it constitutes a safety risk. The room is a bathroom, so humidity levels tend to get high during use. I am worried about fires or other problems caused by the misuse of the dimmer.
The electrician is suggesting that we remove the transformers currently connected to the halogen bulbs, and then connect LED bulbs in their place, without the need for a transformer between the dimmer and the bulbs. I agree that switching to LED lighting is the ideal course of action but I would like to verify that his understanding is correct before letting him proceed further.
The Jung brand offers a few other types of rotary dimmers: https://www.jung.de/en/online-catalogue/367389336/
Here are some photos of the spec sheet I found with the LED dimmer.


texts:
I am doing a minor reno in a new house.
I took out a wall and in it was two strands of 12-2 that went to one outlet.
That wiring will not be used anymore, I don't want to splice into them  or  run them to a different location. I can not tell how the wires run back to the box so I can't pull them  out so I want to hide then in the floor.
Can I just cap it with some wire screws? Or should I put a box around it? The box is less favorable because I would have to cut a hole in the sub floor to hide it. But is that the safer option?
Thanks
J


texts: Is it safe to mix and match light bulb wattages and sizes in same fixture?

texts:
I have a one of those two-head spotlight fixtures in my back yard. The fixture is under my deck roof and never gets wet. Each socket is rated at 120 watts max. It's designed for the PAR38 spotlight bulbs.
I want to use a 90-watt PAR38 spotlight bulb (brighter light for the yard) in one of the sockets and a 45-watt A60 standard-size bulb (dimmer light for the deck) in the other socket. Is it safe to mix and match bulbs like this?
Some Google searching seemed to indicate that it's safe to mix and match wattages, as long as you don't exceed the fixture's maximum ratings. However, I couldn't find anything on mixing bulb types.


texts: What's wrong with my replacement GFCI outlet?

texts: I'm trying to replace a GFCI outlet in my bathroom.  (the old one trips almost every time you plug something in)  When I connect the line wires from the panel to the line poles and the load wires to the load poles, I get no power light (the little LED light) on the outlet and it won't reset.  However, if I connect the line wires to the load poles, the power light comes on, but it still won't reset.  To add to my confusion, if I put the old GFCI back in place, everything works fine.  What am I doing wrong?  I think I've done everything but purposely cross-wiring...


texts: Need help replacing this super old shower handle!

texts: Not really sure what kind of handle this is or how to replace it. It doesn't work anymore so no water comes out of the showerhead. There's some little pin in the base of the handle that broke and none of the hardware stores around here have any replacement parts for it. I'd really like to remove and replace it with something more modern.


texts: Should switches in a kitchen area have GFCI protection?

texts: Do the switches on the wall and over the counter areas have to be on a GFCI protected circuit? As there is live power at the switch all the time, I would think this to be true, but I'm not sure.


texts: Can I repair a luggage caster housing with Sugru?

texts:
Something got stuck around the fixed axle of my suitcase caster,  causing the caster to stop rotating around it. The axle itself ended up rotating and wearing away at the housing.

I managed to clear the majority of the blockage, but because the housing is worn away, the caster now rubs against the top side of the housing.

Can I use Sugru to pad the worn out section of the housing? It's the only thing I have even vaguely suited to the job. How else could I repair it?


texts: Is it acceptable that the only access to a service panel is through a master bedroom closet?

texts: We are planning a remodel and I have a question about the location of the breaker panel. The remodel plans would leave the panel where it is, in laundry room. I am aware that the breaker panel will need a certain amount of workspace and it will have that. The concern is that, according to our planned layout, the only access to the laundry room would be to walk through the master closet, and through a door at the back of the closet which opens into the laundry room. Currently, the only way to access the laundry room is to go outside onto our carport and go through the door. We are planning to turn the carport into a Master Bedroom, Bath, and Walk-Through closet. Does this break any codes? Thanks in advance!


texts: How to fix over-tightened metal drywall anchor?

texts:
I was installing a metal drywall anchor for the first time, and accidentally over tightened it. Now it isn't tight on the wall, and is unusable. I can not remove the screw from the wall, and am worried about damaging my wall. The screw itself is flush with the anchor, and it won't move no matter what direction I screw it. The anchor is similar to this:

How do I remove it from my wall so that I can try to install it again without damaging my wall?


texts: How to open a bathroom Florescent fixture?

texts: My 4-foot bathroom florescent light is flickering, so I bought new LED tubes.  But I found out that I don't know how to open the thing.  There doesn't seem to be anything to press, the cover doesn't twist or anything, and the ends don't pull off.  There doesn't seem to be tabs anywhere either.  Not sure where to start looking or what to push.  Any ideas?  below is a picture of the end of the fixture, sorry for the quality, but the light is flickering pretty badly.


texts: What are the signs of a failing tank water heater?

texts:
This may seem like a no brainer question, but I wanted to know what are the signs of a hot water tank going bad? I have one in my home that is 20 years old, that runs on gas. I still get hot water, but every now and then in the morning the shower will only get lukewarm.

Now my hot water heater is located on the first floor, and almost ALWAYS I have to run my kitchen faucet on hot for about 3-4 minutes before it starts to get warm, however my dishwasher has scolding hot water (but my guess is, that it is the heating element inside the dishwasher heating up the water)?


texts: How can I repair drywall where it was soaked by a leaking window?

texts: Had windy rainstorm and noticed some water damage. What should I do to fix it?


texts: Should I install a gutter above my garage door?

texts:
Should gutters be placed above the garage door? I have a roof that peaks like a mountain (hip?). Most houses I see have gutters around the house but the roof above garage is largely ignored. I will be installing gutters soon on my house (it has none) and I am curious on what others have done.

Roof

^^^

-+-+-+

Garage


texts: How can I insulate pex pipes that have supports at every joist?

texts:
I set out to insulate the hot water pipes in my basement today and discovered that the plumber had installed these brackets every foot or so, making it difficult and impractical to wrap the pipes. Is this normal?

In this picture you can see a run of 4 PEX pipes (two hot, two cold) using a 4-pipe bracket on every joist. This is in New England and it takes forever to get hot water at any tap in the winter.


texts: Could smoke odor be originating from the HVAC system of an adjacent townhome?

texts:
I live in a townhouse and I hired a company to remove the smoke odor in the house. Now, the odor is almost gone when the heat is off.

However, every time I turn on the heat, the smoke odor will come back. The company I hired says the odor comes from my neighbor. They tell me that, because there is smoke smell in my neighbor's house (which is true) and our ventilation systems are connected (which I am not sure), the odor will be sucked into the vents and then get into my house when I turn on the heat.

But my furnace is a closet in my living room, and my neighbor's heat is NOT on when I turn on my heat. That's why I'm not sure if the ventilation systems are connected.

So I wonder if there is a way to tell if my ventilation system is connected to my neighbor's.

Also, if it's connected, how to fix it? If it's not connected, what could be the cause of the odor when the heat is on?

Thank you very much!


texts: When ordering lumber what percentage of waste should be expected?

texts:
Let's say I'm getting ready for a remodeling project, and I'm getting ready to order 2x lumber for framing. Specifically, I'll be ordering No. 2 or better 2x lumber. What percentage of my order should I expect to be scrap (i.e. twisted, warped, crap)?

I've dug through the junk at places like Home Depot and Lowe's, and found it difficult to find a relatively straight board. Do big box stores just keep re-stacking the picked over garbage, so the percentage of junk increases over time? Should I expect this level of waste when ordering from a lumber yard?


texts: Can upward-facing receptacles be installed flush to a kitchen island countertop?

texts:
I have been digging around on the internet and NEC code but I am having trouble finding this.  Is it allowed by code to install upward facing outlets flush into a kitchen island countertop?  I am guessing no but I am hoping to get confirmation regardless.  I am redoing my kitchen and trying to decide where to put the outlets on the kitchen island.  I know the code for standard countertop space.  48", GFCI, tamper resistant, etc.  But the island seems to function differently as far as the code is concerned.
I did find this in 406.5(E):

(E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces. Receptacles, unless listed as receptacle assemblies for countertop applications, shall not be installed in a face-up position in countertops or similar work surfaces.
Where receptacle assemblies for countertop applications are required to provide ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel in accordance with 210.8, such assemblies shall be permitted to be listed as GFCI receptacle assemblies for countertop applications.

But this seems to be talking about actual kitchen counters and not the island so I am not sure if it applies.


texts: Repairing gaps between bamboo lock and click floor boards

texts: There are several boards with gaps. Some of the boards are uneven. We want to pull the boards together to create one larger gap to put a shim into. When installed the boards were glued together. How can we pull the boards together in order to make this repair


texts: Do I need to remove this enclosed shower and check for mold?

texts:
My wife and I just bought a house, and I noticed after using the shower, there were black specs all over the shower floor.  There is a seam where the bottom part of the shower joins with the wall covering, and there is no caulk. I sprayed water into it, and a nearly endless stream of black and yellow specs poured out. Should we remove the enclosed shower and check for mold?  Some people online claim that this is soap scum, but there are a lot of seams in the shower without caulk so I am concerned it could be mold.

This what was coming out at the hour mark. Here is a video: https://youtu.be/PW_0p61zcHY


texts:
I built this tall wooden table for working while standing. The problem is that it's a little bit unstable(shaky) horizontally. What is the minimum work I can do to make it stable?

Edit: Diagonal bracings on sides successfully worked.


texts: How do I repair aerated autoclaved concrete?

texts:
I got an everlasting problem with a aerated autoclaved concrete (also known as "Gasbeton") wall: there's a crack that seems to split the upper half from the bottom half of the wall.

I tried several time to fix it, either with the proper aerated autoclaved concrete putty and with stucco but, after some days, the crack comes back again.

Any idea on how to fix it for good?

EDIT: The wall is made of AAC blocks (as bricks), I have access to both sides and is an interior wall: basically it divides one former big room in two smaller rooms (kitchen and bedroom).


texts: Why does my furnace run periodically when the thermostat is off?

texts: I just moved into a small apartment that has oil tank / water baseboard heaters. At first the furnace would not come on at all, after hearing the "click" in the thermostat. Maintenence was sent 3 times before finally replacing the "relay switch", (that's what i was told anyway). Now that it's warmer weather and I don't need heat, I turned the thermostat all the way down to 50 degrees and I still hear the furnace run periodically but the registers don't actually get hot. My questions are, what's wrong with the furnace, if anything ? How much electric does the furnace use by coming on when the thermostat is off ?


texts: Is a combined AC/Dehumidifer unit more efficient than separate units?

texts:
I've just moved into a "basement-ish" apartment; the actual ground level is about at my waist.  It's a bit mustier than I'd hoped, and not as cool as I'd like during these closing days of Summer.  I'm looking to pick up a small dehumidifier, and a small portable air conditioner, one to handle dampness in general; and the other to keep me cool.

In looking at my portable AC options, I see that there are a bunch of them that also function as dehumidifiers, on their own.  Does anyone know if they're decent and efficient at this task?  Should I stick to purchasing separate units, or can I get by with a two-in-one?


texts:
PVC or CPVC pipe can be used for domestic water supply. PEX is typically supplanting this role but PVC is still suitable. However, PVC seems to not be used in hydronic applications although CPVC can have a higher temperature rating, I believe.

Supposedly one reason for the lack of CPVC in hydronic is that it does not provide a suitable oxygen barrier to protect the components of a typical hydronic heating system, such as cast iron boilers, pumps, brass fittings which may de-zincify, etc.

However I have read contradictory information about PVC materials used in packaging applications, particularly for food, where it's ability to prevent oxygen penetration is specifically cited as a benefit.

So, what are the oxygen barrier capabilities of PVC or CPVC plumbing pipe?

Note - PEX seems far easier to work well for most things. But for cases where large diameter pipe is needed (e.g. 2-in), like in "near boiler" plumbing, PEX isn't as readily available, copper is more pricey, and black iron may be less familiar. So PVC, in theory, would be nice for those cases.


texts: Are 2x2s, 1x4s, or 1x2s sufficient for the support structure of a garage shelving unit?

texts:
I would like to build several shelving units in our garage.  Each unit will be 36" deep, 88" high, and 60" wide.  Each unit will have four shelves, and each shelf will be divided into two cubbies each sized perfectly to fit our storage bins:

     -----------------------
    /                     /|
   /        60"          / |
  -----------------------  |
  |          |          |  |
  |          |          |  |
  -----------------------  |
  |          |          |  |
  |          |          |  |
  -----------------------  |  88"
  |          |          |  |
  |          |          |  |
  -----------------------  |
  |          |          |  /
  |          |          | /  36"
  -----------------------

Each cubby will need to be able to hold up to 100 lbs of weight, so 200 lbs across each shelf, or 800 lbs in the whole unit.  We will likely never approach half of this, but could reach it in some cases at certain times of year.

I planned to use 3/8" plywood for the shelves and to support them on all four sides (so 6 vertical studs total, plus horizontal support around the perimeter of each shelf).  There will also be another support running down the center of the shelf from front to back between the two cubbies.

I would like to know if 2x4s are required for the framing and support, or if I can use smaller pieces of framing lumber to save some money.  I'm confident that the plywood can hold the weight (thanks to the Sagulator), but am unsure how to calculate maximum load for different supports.


texts: Scraping paint globs off textured drywall

texts:
So I am not a pro painter and when I rolled my newly drywalled and orange peel textured ceiling I didn't go in a pattern.  I just rolled straight across.

There are areas where there a globs from excess paint on the side of the roller.  Needless to say, I'm going to do another coat (this will make 3) in the opposite direction in more of a pattern (I.e. No straight lines).

My question is:  how can I remove those globs without making it completely obvious that there were globs there and still preserve the orange peel (as best I can)?


texts: How can I get this light fixture to light up?

texts:
Summarize the problem

After replacing several light switches on the same circuit (one switch at a time), one light fixture will no longer light up. The light fixture is controlled by two three-way switches. The light fixture's hot wire is getting 120v (tested with a multimeter). I've tried four different three-way switches and two different light fixtures. I checked the twisted neutral and it is secure. The rest of the light switches on the circuit work perfectly (bathroom, hallway, and front door lights).

Circuit includes:

Upstairs light (will not light up, the remaining items work perfectly)
Bathroom light and fan
Hallway light, exterior light, and front door lights
Doorbell

Provide details and any research

There are two three-way switches at the top of the stairs. The switch on the left controls a different circuit that works perfectly. The switch on the right (referred to as Three-way switch #1) controls the light fixture that won't light up. Three-way switch #2 is at the bottom of the stairs, on the same circuit as switch #1 and the problematic light fixture.

Three-way switch #1 (right), breaker on, red traveler wire is cold (three-way switch on the left can be ignored, it works perfectly)

Three-way switch #1, breaker on, white traveler wire is cold

Three-way switch #1, breaker on, black wire is hot

Three-way switch #1 installed (right) - ignore the switch on the left

Three-way switch #1 installed (right) - ignore the switch on the left

Three-way switch #1 wires

Three-way switch #1 twisted neutral wires

Three-way switch #2, white traveler wire is hot

Three-way switch #2, red traveler wire is cold

Three-way switch #2, black common wire is cold

Three-way switch #2 wires

Three-way switch #2 installed

Light fixture black wire is hot (120v, tested with multimeter)

Light fixture white wire is cold

Light fixture installed, will not light up (also tried another fixture with the same result)

Fixture black and white fixture wires: 0v

Fixture black and ground wires: 120v

Switch #1 black and white (neutral) wires: 0v

Switch #1 black and ground wires: 123v

Fixture connected white (neutral) and ground: 0v

Other switches on the circuit

Bathroom light switch (left) and fan switch (right)

Bathroom box

Bathroom neutrals (retwisted after)

Hallway light switches (hallway light, two front door lights, and exterior light on the side of the house)

Hallway box

Hallway neutrals (retwisted after)

Interior doorbell

Exterior doorbell (faceplate removed)

Circuit breaker (#34) that powers the problematic upstairs light fixture, as well as the bathroom light and fan, hallway light, exterior light, two front door lights, and doorbell

When appropriate, describe what you’ve tried

I've tried:

Four different three-way switches
Two different light fixtures
Testing the hot wires with a multimeter to confirm they're outputting 120v
Untwisted and retwisted the neutral wires at switch #1
Trying multiple combinations at switch #2 (black wire on black screw, travelers on brass screws; white wire on black screw, travelers on brass screws; red wire on black screw, travelers on brass screws)

I think the problem is that I have an open neutral on another light switch. Is it possible that an open neutral on one light switch could break the circuit on another light switch? Anything else I can do to get this light fixture working?

Thank you.

Solution

I finally fixed this, and boy do I feel dumb. I did not realize that, in addition to all the light switches, there's an outlet on this circuit. I had replaced the old dual outlet with an LED light and single outlet, and it was not working. I took the wall plate off, removed the outlet and found the problem. For some reason, I only connected one neutral to the left screw and capped off the other neutral. That was the open neutral. I connected the capped off neutral to the screw, in addition to the other neutral, and now the outlet and light fixture works!

The open neutral

Closed the neutral and now the light fixture works!


texts: How to connect lighting fixture into ceiling junction box?

texts:
I’m trying to connect a simple lighting fixture with ground, white, and black wires into a ceiling junction box as shown below. When I removed the cover plate, there were 2 black wires, 2 white wires, 3 green wires, and 1 unstripped yellow wire

I connected the lighting fixture according to the instructions by connecting white to white, black to black, and ground to green. When I turned the breaker on, the light fixture was permanently on and I couldn’t control it with any of the switches.

Is this related to the yellow wire being unconnected? How should I be connecting a lighting fixture to this setup?

I don’t know if it’s relevant but there are two nearby switches with yellow wires connected to them as well (shown below).


texts: Is it really a good idea to buy an old house which needs some rework?

texts:
Long ago I read somewhere that it is best to buy houses that need some amount of rework rather than those in tip-top condition. The reasons given were:

There is less competition from other buyers so can be be bought more easily
Less money required from mortgage lender which is the loan on interest

Once such a home has been bought, a person would spend money on it to bring it into good condition (which is subjective), possibly over number of few years. Usually this would (atleast) involve cleaning up the place, mowing the gardens, new paint, new wallpaper and new carpet at the very least.

In other words, find a run down house and then make it beautiful. Can get house for cheaper and then work to renovate it gradually.

Now my question is simple. Since such houses are going to be old and possibly not well maintained for some time, what are the main risks in buying such houses and what should one look out for so we don't end up with a rather expensive mistake and regret it?


texts: I have a  fluorescent light in a 30-year old fitting. The light has recently stopped working, though it is trying to light at each end.  Replacing the tube has had no effect.  However there is a little knob on the side of the fitting and when I rotate this it is breaking and reconnecting the live wire, and making the light work.  I think therefore that I may have a starter problem but I am not sure.  Can I replace the original big silver 'starter' (actually a capacitor) with a new starter, or is there likely to be something else wrong?


texts:
I recently moved into a new house and have two problems with a shower valve that I'd like to fix:

It's missing a handle. Can anyone help me identify the brand from the attached photo of the escutcheon, so that I can source the correct handle? Alternatively, are there generic lever handles that will fit this type of valve?

The two escutcheon trim screws are apparently not the right ones for this valve assembly. They're just free-floating and not actually anchored to the mounting bracket behind the wall. I opened up the access panel on the backside of the shower wall to investigate, and discovered that the trim screws do not have the correct threading to mate to the mounting bracket. Any clue what trim screws will work with this mounting bracket (see photo)?


texts: Increased Water Pressure after Expansion Tank Replacement

texts:
Two weeks ago, I had to replace the expansion tank on my hot water heater due to a small pinhole on the top.  Ever since then, it seems like there is increased water pressure when I flush either of the two toilets in the house. In the master, you can hear like a banging in the wall as you flush. In the other bathroom it sounds more loud with an abrupt stop once the tank is filled. I have not noticed significant water pressure or pulsating water from any of the faucets. This was not issue before the expansion tank was replaced.

Is this normal? Does this usually take care of itself?  Is there something I can do to reduce the pressure or does this mean there is something wrong with the expansion tank?

The pressure on the tank came precharged at 40psi. It was not adjusted at the time of the install to match the incoming water pressure of the house which measured 60-65psi. Due to this, I pressume that is why I may be having the issues. Will this be resolved if the expansion tank pressure is increased? Is it an easy fix to just add the air, or is it more complicated than that?


texts:
I've bought a MALM drawer system that comes without any soft close-mechanism on the drawers. Is it possible to make or buy external silencers that i can attach to the drawers so they don't make so much noise when closing them?

And example on dampening for kitchen doors: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80126213/


texts: What is the preferred method for removing & replacing electrical wiring in the garage?

texts:
I just purchased a house built in the mid-1990s in Kansas, U.S.

The garage is generally finished:  It has sheetrock walls and ceiling. It also has outlets spaced every 6 feet or so about 4 feet above the floor. The electrical service panel is in the garage and mounted flush inside the wall.

There are several things I want to accomplish:

I want to have easier access to the electrical box to add additional wiring and breakers. As of now, I'm not sure how can this be done without ripping the wall above/below apart. I'd like to do one of two things.

1A. Cut open an area above the box and place a locked door to provide access to it.

1B. Pull out the electrical box and mount it to the wall instead. That way all the wiring coming into the box are exposed. I'm assuming in a garage this would be code violation but installed in an unfinished basement this wouldn't be?
I want to remove some outlets. I don't see a point in having so many and the fact I like washing my car in the garage, I rather not have to worry about any outlets causing trouble. I know how to remove the outlet itself, but what's the proper procedure for pulling the wiring out of the wall to that outlet?
Next to the electrical box I will have an air compressor. It requires a 20 amp circuit. I was thinking of placing a PVC (gray) outlet box mounted to the wall and run conduit up and over to the electrical box. Slightly above the electrical box I'm assuming I would have to put a junction box. This will take the wire from the conduit on the outside wall and provide an opening to the inside wall to drop the wire into the electrical box.


texts: Can I ventilate attic space using wall vents?

texts:
As an alternative to use a timber trussed tiled roof vent that involves removing tiles, can I instead replace two or more bricks, some on each end of my house, with wall vents like this?

Presumably this would allow good cross ventilation... but would there be any drawbacks?


texts: Why did the high temp thermostat in my dryer fail when I disconnected the buzzer?

texts:
My wife wanted me to disable the End-of-Cycle buzzer in our laundry machine (dryer) for various reasons. I thought it would be an easy enough task, but it has since turned into a learning experience. Unfortunately I know just enough about circuit design to get myself into trouble by thinking I understand it. Enough context though and on to the actual question...

See the schematic below for reference. I removed the EOC Signal, indicated in blue. I then bridged the connection (bridge depicted in yellow) and wired the Push to Start Switch directly to the Control timer, circumventing the EOC Signal. This caused the Thermostat Hi-Limit Right, indicated in red, to fail dramatically after about 5-10 minutes of running the dryer. Very likely that the dryer reached it's end of cycle.

What I'm wondering is why this happened. My best guess is that, normally, the timer sends a high energy signal to the EOC Signal when the cycle is over. However, because I removed the EOC signal, this high energy signal made it's way back to the Thermostat Hi-Limit Right and overloaded the component.

Additional information,

The EOC Signal has a flag note that reads:

  EOC signal will sound when timer is in cool down period of cycle and during extra care cycle. It operates with singal on 5 seconds and off 70 seconds. To test-set timer near end of cycle or in extra care cycle and wait 2 minutes for signal to sound. Timer must be allowed to run, and electrically energize signal.

The model is a GE GTX33EASK0WW. Assembly Diagrams can be found here: https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/parts/assembly/GTX33EASK0WW?ModelType=ModelType

The buzzer part number is WE4M318, Dryer Buzzer - Diagram No. 89

The thermostat part number is WE04X26139, High limit thermostat - Diagram No.   507

EDIT: At the recommendation of @manassehkatz, I disconnected the two wires coming off the EOC Signal (buzzer) and capped the ends. It worked like a charm. No more loud buzzer, much happier wife.


texts: Unable to drill into window lintel - what have I got wrong?

texts:
I'm new to DIY so forgive my lack of knowledge! Just bought a house and have ordered blinds to fit inside the window recesses. Fitting them involves drilling into the top of the window recess  to mount two brackets.

I have a percussion drill (this one) and since it didn't come with masonry bits, I purchased a Bosch drill bit set (this one). Using the 6mm masonry bit from this set (it has the distinctive "hammer-head" look), I attempted to drill a 5cm hole straight up into the lintel and after a few millimeters of soft plaster, I hit either concrete or stone and have been unable to drill any further than 1cm in with around 10 minutes of drilling slowly. Having read around, if the hole takes more than 30 seconds to drill then something's not right.

As far as I know, I'm using the correct drill bit (which hasn't worn although got hot) albeit from a relatively cheap set and I do have the drill set to percussion mode and rotating the bit clockwise. The drill claims to be able to drill holes up to 13mm wide in concrete and so the only things I can think of are that the drill or bit aren't up to the task (though the bit is still intact) or whatever I'm drilling through isn't concrete. I'm 100% certain that the lintel above the window is not wood, as inspecting the hole reveals a hard grey material like stone or concrete.

I guess my question is: is my equipment not up to the task, whether this is because the equipment is cheap or because the equipment I have can't be used to drill into stone?

For information, the house is a former council house built in the 1960's.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Is it possible to reuse shingles/replace only part of the shingles?

texts:
My back porch roof is collapsing. You can see in this photo how the left side is bowed down tremendously:

Obviously, I want to fix the roof and make it actually sturdy. I lifted the shingles there in the corner and discovered that much of the wood in that corner has rotted away. I don't know if it was like that before they put the siding on, but it's really bad, and I worry about it collapsing, especially when my children are playing out there.

Is it possible to save the shingles that are currently on the porch roof there and reuse them? If that's not possible/recommended, is it at least possible to only have to replace the shingles on part of the roof, as opposed to the whole thing?


texts: How big a problem is wood embedded in a basement concrete floor?

texts:
We purchased a home where the previous owner did a lot of home improvement himself.  The house has a finished basement and I believe the previous owner mentioned something about him digging out and finishing it himself.
The basement recently developed a mildewy smell so we pulled up a corner of the basement carpeting.  We discovered two things that really worried us.  First, we discovered that the padding and carpet were placed directly on the concrete without any sort of moisture barrier.
But my question related to the second thing we discovered.  The concrete slab in the finished part of the house has wood dividers embedded in it (they look like 2x4s but I can't be sure).  See pictures.  It's almost as if he framed out the flooring for pouring the concrete but then left the wood. Some of the wood is damp to the touch and seems to be starting to deteriorate.
I guess I'm looking for some confirmation that this is wrong and problematic. Am I wrong?  Is there any legitimate reason for that wood to be there? I'm assuming I'm going to have to dig it out and fill the voids but would love to be wrong. (Not only does that seem like a big job, but some of the wood goes under the wall frames, so I may have to cut into the walls in order to get to the edges of the wood).


texts: How does one upgrade garage electrical from an In-House main?

texts:
tl;dr Want to know the easiest way to upgrade electrical in garage from 15A to 20A.
Actual Post

Garage is on a 15 amp circuit, doesn't work out too well for a 15A air compressor.
The main is in the house, ~20 yards away give or take. I can do the wiring myself, but I don't know how to go about finding the existing wiring's path, will standard fishing line work? I saw this related question, so if there are multiple 90s in my path then probably not.
What I know:

I'll probably be adding a subpanel in there for convenience.
I can calculate Amp/Gauge requirements for cabling and breakers.
This is probably going to be a pain.

What I don't know:

What codes will apply in this situation. I know there are certain requirements for buried cables though, just not what.
How/Where the cable should enter the house.
If I can or even if I should trace the existing wiring from the garage and use that path, or start from scratch.
Any best practices or pitfalls to avoid for this type of job.

My question differs from this one in that I want to know what's involved with running new cable from the garage to the house. I know it can be done, I just want to know how it's done, essentially.
Info about the area:
There's a standard city backyard between the garage and house (a big tree, lawn, back porch w/ walkway), and this is MI in case there are any differences in code.


texts: Floorplan reasonability check: would need to put a kitchen drainpipe in a concrete subfloor slub

texts:
I'm  planning a remodel in an appartment, and the way I see the space would work the best is when I bring a kitchen quite far away from the mainlines.
And layout dictates that sink drain pipe should go in a concrete subfloor, which I estimate will be 8-10cm thick.

The pipe in the kitchen-side can go above the floor inside the cabinetry, but it must be underneath the floor in the hallway-side (that is drawn in yellowish and approximately 2.1 m long).

I'm also not perfectly sure how low it can be attached to the main drain (it's vertical and plastic), probably some millimeters (at least) in height would be lost there.
So, if use 4cm diameter pipe and lay in with 4-6 cm incline it adds up to the subfloor thickness. But it adds up just in pure math. Is it reasonable enough for the real attempt?

The reason I ask is I must present a plan for authorities now, and then it would be impossible to place the kitchen in any other place and I would hate to lay the pipe without proper incline just to fit in, and then install a sink drain pump.

Also, should I use iron, or plastic tubes are fine to be laid within a concrete slab?

Thank you for your time and suggenstions!


texts: What is the strip that runs between the garage and the driveway called? Also what does it do? Is it a thermal break or is it there too prevent the concreate from cracking? What is the material? How deep does it need to be when installed?


texts: Juicer's food pusher's bottom just sliced off, now it's an empty cylinder

texts:
I want to fix it because I can't source another one right now - it's Breville JE-95. Anyway, I thought I'd get crafty and try to fix it, doing some plastic welding or gluing of a piece of plastic. I'd trace the shape from the bottom of the pusher, cut it out with a Dremel and combine the 2.

How would I go about the welding and what type of glue would be food-safe enough to be using for this purpose?


texts: Drilled into studs, light flickered momentarily but everything else seems fine now - should I be worried?

texts:
I was installing shelving in my closets, when drilled a hole into studs, the lights flickered momentarily for 2 seconds.

I stopped drilling, and everything else seems fine now. The circuit didn't break and the lights are no longer flickering.

There doesn't seem to be any sockets around the switch.

Should I call an electrician or is there anything I should test?


texts: Occupancy sensor immediately off after on

texts:
I attempted to install a Lutron 2 AMP occupancy sensor this weekend, replacing a simple single-pole switch.

Installation seemed to be straightforward enough. However, when the time came to test it, it exhibited a funny symptom. About 9 out of 10 times it detected motion and tried to turn on the lights, the lights would be on for a split of a second, and then went off. Very occasionally, the lights would turn on and stay on, functioning normally.

I suspected the switch might require a minimum wattage - I was using 4 LED bulbs, but after changing to 4 incandescent bulbs, the issue still remained.

This sensor requires a ground wire, which is used to power the standby circuit.  I made sure grounding worked. It did. In fact, the sensor wouldn't even function without the ground wire connected.

I then tested the switch on a different location, also replacing a single-pole switch. The configuration of wires was identical to the previous location. This time, the lights wouldn't even turn on at all.

I thought I must have broken the sensor, but I tested it again at the first location to be sure. It's not broken (at least not completely), and still exhibited the "immediately off after turning the lights on" issue at the first location.

I am stumped. Was it likely that I got a bad unit? Or is the problem the quality of grounding ("weak ground")? Any advice/suggestion is appreciated!


texts:
I have a dual garage doors that operate on the 2 switches shown. The opening and closing of the doors works perfectly with the 2 large white switches. The light switches below the opening switches work sporadically and sometimes they won't switch off the garage light. They will ALWAYS switch ON the light but sometimes not switch off. Sometimes neither of them work and sometimes only one of them doesn't work. I find I have to leave them on and come back and try again later.
If I don't touch the light switches as part of the garage door open/close process where the switches are left to switch off on a timer then they always switch off and that is not an issue. The issue is when I come into the garage and need the light on without opening the garage doors.
How do I fix the light part of these switches? I'm happy to just replace them if that's what it takes. Just don't want to do that if the switch is not the problem. Also happy to replace with a different type or model of switch if that will resolve it. These switches are about 10 to 12 years old and the problem probably started happening about 2 years ago.


texts: Old oil forced air heat only system (R/W wire only) - Is adding a C possilbe to use Wi-Fi

texts: This system is from the 60's era - the furnace has a two T connectors for the R and W (thermostat) and two F connectors - one labeled "Thermostat Load 24VAC 0.2AMP, the other for the Burner Motor Ignition. I want to use a Honeywell Sensi wifi thermostat and have no problem running a new wire to the thermostat for "C", but where would I connect it at the furnace considering the limited connectors (T T F F)?  Thanks!


texts: Cooker hood lighting stops working with LED

texts: I have recently tried to replace the light bulbs of my cooking hood for LED ones. They are G4 and the old ones were halogen. The thing is: the hood has 4 bulbs. I started replacing and testing with no problem until i reached the 4th. As soon as i replace the 4th (on any position, tried them all) it stops working and when i replace one of them (any place) back to an old halogen one, they all light up again. It seems this is like a low current limit of sort (since it was supposed to work with higher power halogen ones). Does anyone have any idea if it is and how to bypass it (other than having a 3 LED - 1 halogen setup :P? Thanks in advance for your time.


texts: Can a wet vac be effectively used as a pump?

texts:
Can a wet vac effectively be used as a pump to move water?

I figure if a basement floods, that this can serve as double duty.


texts: When is it prefrable to use a tape like Wigluv, rather than caulk or low expansion foam?

texts:
I'm trying to understand when to use what method to seal, to prevent air and/or water.
When would a tape like Wigluv be preferred over caulk or low expansion foam?  What applications is it the ideal choice?


texts:
So I’m learning how to make concrete pavers with this youtube video.

He mentions that he uses lard as a release agent, so he brushes that into the mold. He also suggests cooking oil or motor oil for colder temperatures.

He also mentions that any type of wood will work, even though he uses laminated wood.

My question: for regular wood, is lard a good release agent? I live in the Caribbean, so there’s no cold temperature.


texts: Why does my shower goes cold when any other faucet is turned on?

texts:
My hot water goes off in front shower any time hot water is used anywhere else in house.  It is a single handle delta. The same bathroom sink takes several minutes to get hot water to it, but it's a double handle faucet. There is a tub in that bathroom with a single handle faucet and the kitchen is a single handle faucet as well as the back bathroom shower.

Is this the cartridge in the front shower? Or could it be the mixing valve in the wall?


texts: How should I install underfloor heating over OSB subfloor?

texts:
I need some help on my DIY project for underfloor heating system in an apartment.

The question is on the screed requirements provided that I have the following (non traditional) setup. There is polystyrene insulation that is glued to the concrete base. Then there are whole OSB plates freely positioned on the insulation. I plan to fix the heating tubes to the OSB and to implement a floating screed over it (sand and cement). Finally I plan to have a tiles finish.

First of all do you see any potential problems with this setup? Please mind that any changes with it will be expensive to make so I need to make this work.


texts: Can I put a fan control switch on a window air conditioner to quiet it down

texts:
Can I use something like this to control a window air conditioner so it will run quieter?

Variable Speed Fan Control, Wall Mount, Rated 15.0 Amps @ 120 VAC for use with Shaded Pole and PSC Motors


texts: Should I use acoustical insulation or acoustical drywall for interior walls?

texts:
We are getting ready to begin a multi-room renovation project and are thinking about sound deadening. We want to either add sound deadening insulation or acoustical drywall to the interior walls but are not clear as to the advantages/disadvantages to each. This would only be for the interior walls. We are not concerned with thermal properties, only acoustical.

Can you provide some tips on which is better?


texts: Get phone signal where there's no signal

texts:
I have a tiny house between two hills, in a mountain area. For few weeks I've been searching how to get phone signal there.

There are two problems:

there is no electricity
the hills are blocking the signal from the antenna tower

I think the electricity problem is not a concern for now—I can use a generator or build something that will produce enough power for the things I need.

I'm wondering how to get phone signal, including a good 3G connection which will allow me browse the internet, eventually.

What would be the most reliable way to get phone signal at my house?

I imagine the scenario is like this:

             /\                   ___
  /\        /  \   ______________/      \
 /  \      /    \_/
/    \__/

My idea: build a high enough tower near me house and put on top of it an gsm antenna which will bring the signal down in my house. However I don't know:

What would be the best way to build such a tower (I want to build it on my land, not affecting my neighbours' lands—e.g. by adding long wires to sustain my tower)?
How can I find what's the minimal height where I can get strong enough signal? I've been thinking to use a drone which will take my phone in the sky and using an app to screenshot the phone screen from time to time, but I'm not sure how that will work. Maybe there are better ways?
Probably an antenna would need electricity. What is the best way to get electricity from in this case?
Ultimately, what's the name of this job? How can I find experts in my area who are good in such measurements and eventually guide me on the implementation?

Satellite phone is not a solution in my case since there are no companies around providing that.


texts: Is it code compliant to run only a hot wire to a relay used as a 3-way switch?

texts:
I am setting up a relay to control my 120v/15a pool light. The relay control will be located in a plastic project box near the pool equipment and will be driven by a 24VAC coil. The light circuit will be a dedicated breaker in the nearby sub-panel. (I'm using 24VAC as it is already available in the project box to drive pool valve actuators).
I would like the relay to tie into a normal 3-way switch mounted outside which would serve as a "manual override" in the event someone needs to turn the light on or off and doesn't have access to the automation control that drives the relay.
Normally, I would wire this by running THWN hot/neutral/ground through conduit from the sub-panel to the project box relay, connect the relay NO/NC contacts to two travelers and run those two plus the neutral/ground wires through conduit to the manual switch, then on to the light itself. However, I'd like to reuse an existing switch already mounted adjacent to the sub-panel (it's not a 3-way, but I will replace it with one).

As a simpler alternative, can I safely to run a single THWN hot wire from the sub-panel breaker through conduit to the project box into the relay's common contact, and two THWN wires (travelers) from the relay's NO/NC contacts back through the same conduit (3 wires total) into the sub-panel. From there, the two travelers, a neutral, and a ground in a separate conduit connecting to a physical 3-way switch, then the 3-way switch's single pole, neutral, and ground make their way to the pool light fixture. Is this code-compliant or safe?

This feels very strange (wrong) to me and now that I've written out the question I'm fairly confident it isn't compliant and I should go with my first approach.


texts: How can I wire two closets from one power source?

texts:
We have two closets side by side. Ran black/white/green wires from power source to closet 1 light, then closet 1 switch, then to the closet 2 light, then closet 2 switch. Whoops. Obviously now the closet 1 switch now controls closet 2. Closet 2 switch only works when closet 1 switch is on.  Should have had separate black/white power source wires to closet 2.

We live in a very old house where the flex conduit has been snaked around very tightly, and it may be impossible to run any more wires through it. Of course I could rip out all the new drywall, etc., but I would rather not.

Is there a creative way to get around our current faulty configuration?  With minimal additional wires?


texts: What pipe diameter, for gravity drain of a given impermeable area?

texts:
How do I calculate a sufficient pipe diameter, for handling a given amount
of impermeable pavement?

A general answer is best.

In my particular case I have approximately 675 square feet of tile roof and driveway which drain to the front of a garage.  The garage door is the low spot.  An additional 650sf of neighbor driveway more or less sheets into this same area. Area is San Francisco Bay Area, California USA.

From the low point I could run a pipe about 70 feet in length with a drop of 12 inches, to drain the water by gravity (1.4% slope on average with one cleanout).  Or I could go 10 feet over and down at 4% slope to reach a sump in the home's basement.  Or accept a drainage contractor's bid (total $30,000) and have this water pumped uphill to the curb about 2 feet.


texts: How can I get rid of the smell of spilled milk from my carpet?

texts: I recently had a pierced milk carton spill around 2 pints of milk into the rear footwell of my car.  I have tried various things to get rid of the smell (pet urine remover, Dettol).  It works for a while, but as soon as the carpet dries out again the smell comes back.  Any other ideas for what I can try?


texts: I have a deck on the back of my house with a patio next to the deck.  I would like to build a wide set of steps down to the patio.  Can I have the steps rest on top of the patio or should I put footings in the ground to support the steps?  I live in Illinois.  The patio is poured over a packed bed of rock.