texts: Dishwasher drains with drain line detached, but not into the drain line itself

texts:
I have a Whirlpool dishwasher (model # W10632077A) that has been a problem from the day we moved into this apartment. It's never cleaned dishes properly, and now it's suddenly stopped draining.
The dishwasher drain line is connected to the sink drain through a disposal unit. There is also an air gap installed.
I went through the following steps, making sure to turn off the breaker when working under the dishwasher. After each step I tried to engage the drain pump to see if the dishwasher would drain, manually adding a gallon of water to the bottom of the tub with a jug where necessary:

First I checked the filter and the drain pump inlets inside the
dishwasher. There was debris, but no obvious blockage at any of the
pump inlets/outlets that I could feel. I cleaned what I found and
replaced everything.

I then disconnected the drain line at the disposal. I did not find a
clog in either the disposal end of the drain line or the inlet on the
disposal itself. There is only a trickle of water in the drain line
when disconnected from this side.

I also checked the drain line connection at the drain pump under the
dishwasher. No obvious clog at the outlet of the drain pump or the
inlet of the drain line at this point, but no water inside the line
either (the drain line on this side is transparent flexi-tubing with a soft rubber fitting at the end that goes around a ribbed hose adapter at the pump outlet).

When the drain line is detached water flows freely out of the drain pump with gravity. The impeller inside the pump seems to move freely when manipulated by hand through the drain outlet.
When you manually turn on the drain pump on the dishwasher there's no sound of water flowing, only a brief suction sound somewhere in the sink drain (maybe through the airgap?). It does sound like the pump motor is running, but it's not successfully draining anything. I didn't try to blow on the tube to see if the blockage was further inside; couldn't figure out a good way to do it without having to put my mouth on it (open to suggestions here, esp. if there's a purpose-made tool for this).
What I don't understand is why the water flows freely out of the pump when the drain line is detached, but does not flow into the drain line when it's connected. Could it be that there's a check valve between the pump outlet and the drain line that will only allow water to drain when under pressure, such as when the pump is engaged (and then maybe the issue is the pump after all)? Or does it have something else to do with the anti-siphonage design? I would expect at least some of the water to drain with gravity into the drain line and be visible if it drains freely with the drain line detached.


texts: Can a 10' high wall be built with 2x4's in Ontario?

texts:
I'm building a 1400 sq. ft addition which will be mostly covered with a flat (very low sloped) roof, with a second storey bedroom over the rest.

I'd like to have 4" of continuous rigid exterior insulation (in addition to cavity insulation), so to keep my overall wall thickness down, I'd like to have the walls framed with 2x4s. My architect said that because of the 10' high walls they would need to be framed with 2x6's (according to Ontario building code), but I'm nearly certain I've seen recent builds that have 10' high walls that were framed with 2x4's.

I've not been able to specifically find anything to prove/disprove this yet.


texts: How to install rain screen over split face block to stop leaks?

texts:
I own a condo in Chicago and am facing water issues due to the single wythe use of split face block(SFB). My window sills were always wet so I pulled off the drywall and saw that the insulation and wood studs were right up against the SFB and were soaking wet.

This seems to be a pretty common issue in Chicago. Is the rain screen as described here my only option? Is there anything else I can consider?


texts: Broken rubber seal - leaking toilet cistern

texts:
The black rubber dome on the underside of my toilet cistern cracked and flooded my bathroom.

What's it called?
What's it for?
What measurements do I need to make to buy a new one?
What tools do I need to replace it? (I tried to turn the hexagon thing by hand, but it won't budge.)
How much will it cost to get a plumber to do it, and how long will it take?

When I opened the cistern it was filled with brown residue. I wiped away as much as I could; should I clean it properly with detergent, or just leave it? Also, the black rubber seal is crumbling and is leaving black stains everywhere.

More pictures:

The leak - https://imgur.com/tsYREHA
Brown residue - https://imgur.com/5GsQ9ZR
My bathroom :( - https://imgur.com/heCb6h6


texts: How do I know if blade fits the miter saw?

texts:
I just got my first miter saw (ryobi 15 Amp 12 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser).

I want to buy this diablo blade http://www.amazon.com/D1280X-Diablo-12-Inch-Crosscutting-1-Inch/dp/B00008WQ35/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1464224602&sr=1-4&keywords=diablo+12+inch+miter+saw+blade.

How do I know if it fits my miter saw? Besides size and arbor, what else do I need to check from the size perspective?


texts: how to drill a 2 1/2 in by 5 in long hole in wood?

texts: I am wanting to make my own tiki torches, by drilling a hole 2 1/2 in wide by 5 inches deep in the end of a small log.  I can't seem to find spade bits any bigger then 1 1/2 in, and nothing long enough to drill 5 inches deep.  Can any one tell me if this is possible?  Surely in this day and age it is!


texts: Why are furnace/central AC blowers so inefficient?

texts:
I can buy a ceiling fan from Home Depot capable of moving 5,000 CFM of air for about $50, and it uses a mere 50-60 watts while doing it. By contrast, most furnaces seem to have blowers that operate in a much lower CFM range but use humongous 1/2 or 3/4 horsepower motors that use 600 watts or more when energized.

How does this make any sense? Why is a 1/2 horsepower motor or larger were required for a furnace or central AC but a ceiling fan can get away with such a smaller, more efficient motor and move more air? Or is a ceiling fan CFM not the same as a furnace blower CFM? Is it that the blower requires a much higher RPM to push the air through the ductwork, so the blower CFM is more like a "delivered" value rather than a "supplied" one?

Is it possible to replace these beasts with more efficient versions? Do such things exist?


texts: I have a customer wanting me to drywall the basement ceiling which has junction boxes... I can not drywall over junction boxes correct? And should recommend she has a drop ceiling put in?


texts: How to Ground When No Spot for Wire/Screw

texts:
Weekend-warrior DIYer here. I'm replacing a light fixture. The electrical box doesn't have a grounding wire coming out from it, so I was going to go the green-screw-to-green-screw route.
However, the grounding wire attached to the mounting strap on the previous fixture was not actually attached to anything on the other end.

I think it was left that way because there is no area on the box to attach a screw to. In other words, there are no other holes besides the two to attach the strap.

How can I fix this? I'm assuming I couldn't just tape the screw/wire to the metal box so that it's touching metal?! TY!


texts: Oven wont turn back on after turning off circuit breaker

texts:
I accidentally flipped the oven circuit breaker in my electric panel to 'OFF' while baking (was fixing a separate electrical problem), and now my oven won't turn back on (no clock or anything), even after I flip the circuit breaker back to 'ON'. Before I rip the oven out of the wall to check for blown fuse boxes, any ideas on what I should try? Do I have to wait awhile before turning the circuit breaker back to 'ON'?

Update: managed to access the control board. The fuse looks fine, so I'm not sure it was a power surge that killed the board.


texts: Can you diagnose coolant leak in a refrigerator by blowing hot air on the back?

texts:
An "engineer" has recently investigated my 10+ (that's my estimation - we bought it together with our apartment) year old Smeg FB30 refrigerator and claimed that the coolant gas is leaking from the pipes at the back. He did the diagnosis by blowing hot air from a hair dryer at the back of the refrigerator (the gas pipes are running beneath a plate at the back). When the heated back plate started to yield under pressure in one place, the repair guy said that coolant gas is leaking and he recommended to replace the refrigerator (as it is quite old).

I have some doubts whether this is a serious diagnosis. Do people test refrigerators for gas leaks in this way, or was the guy just, well, blowing hot air?


texts: My 3 speed ceiling fan seems to have lost its slowest speed.  The high & medium speeds works OK, but the slowest speed does not work now.  Any ideas?


texts:
I got a new all beech wooden chest of drawers (lowboy) second hand. It has some smaller and some wider drawer,s all of them jamming on opening and closing.
I know they should slide nice and smooth if they where fabricated accurate to measurement, only they are not.

What would be an easy way to get them working properly? I would be very interrested in different methods, especially ones that not interfere with  the substance of the wood, and which last.


texts: Sheetrock on Walls Is Falling Apart and Cannot Find the Cause

texts:
In the corner of my bedroom  i have discovered that the sheetrock on each wall was so damp that it is falling apart. One wall backs up to my shower the other wall backs up to the laundry room further down  on the other side of the wall.  The walls are connected and both are damp enough so as not to withstand pressure.  The wall that backs up to the shower also contains a return air vent.
I was thinking it might be condensation so I put a bucket of Damp Rid in it to see.  When I went to check it this morning I saw a water mark on the concrete floor and the adjacent piece of wood.  At this point I took a 30 minute shower to determine if that what was causing the damp marks. The marks had not expanded (I had outlined them with a marker) so it must not be the shower.  I am now washing clothes to see if that may be the problem because I don't know where the water lines run.  Also the walls on the same side as the washer are not damp at the base or walls.
I've had several professional Plumbers, HVAC Contractors in to look at it and they can't tell me what is causing it dampness in my sheetrock.
Several years ago when this same problem occurred, the man who came to clean the duct work in the house sealed the return air duct and said there was condensation there.  That was around 5 years ago an apparently it happened again, only this time my carpet is not wet and there was no odor so I didn't realize I had a problem until I removed the air vent and felt the sheetrock.
I know this is a long problem but I just do not know where to go tor who to call for help.


texts: Can I replace a high limit switch myself?

texts: Thank you for the answer, can I change this myself or do I need to get the HVAC company to do this? I have turned off the breaker in the panel box so that it does not come back on. What is the purpose of a high low switch?


texts:
We just brought a new water heater and everything inside such as elements and the thermostats are all perfectly working.
The wiring is all good and the connections are all good but the water heater still doesn’t make hot water.
Any ideas on how to diagnose the problem?


texts: Should a stove flue be grounded for lightning protection?

texts:
I have a freestanding wood burning stove that has a metal flue straight up through to the roof.  The existing stone chimney with aerials is taller than the new flue (see pic).

Should there be an earthing system in place for the flue - more specifically to mitigate potential effects of a lightning strike?


texts: how specific must rocker switch specs be?

texts:
My son has this little car he drives around and the reverse direction stopped working. I took it apart, did some hard-wiring tests and found that the switch was failing (both gear work if I hard-wire the connection that the switch is responsible for making.)

This is the exact switch but it is out of stock, and I can't find it anywhere else online. Must a 6 pin replacement switch be exactly 20A, 250VAC? Or can either parameter vary? if so, how much more or less?


texts: What went wrong with my Washer and how do I fix it?

texts:
For about a month or more my to-loaded washer was getting more and more off balance.  Then it started ticking and not spinning, then recently it stopped spinning altogether.
Everything else still works...it just doesn't spin (which basically means it's useless).

I'm pretty sure that means a belt went out or something but I am a home improvement newb (and this site may be the best thing to ever happen to me....excluding my wife of course)


texts: How to wire L1, L2, n1, n2 and pe wires to install 220v-240v stove?

texts: I'm trying to install a stove but I'm stuck on the wiring. There's an l1, l2, n1, n2 and pe wire sticking out of the wall. The stove has four attachment points for the wires. I don't know how to attach the wires in order to make it 220-240 volts. How am I supposed to wire it?


texts: Blind installed in a metal/aluminum frame that is tilting forward - how to fix?

texts:
I have three windows, in sequence (the middle one is fixed, the side windows can be opened/closed). Each window has its own blind.
I noticed my blinds started tilting forward, specially the middle one, and I can see a gap at the top. Looking closely, I see that the window long metal frame, where the blinds were attached to, "disconnected" from the top and is tilting forward. Inside that opening, I can see some insulation material.
It does not seem that this metal frame ripped/cut from the rest, it seems there was just paint over the joint (the 90 degrees between this metal frame and the top wall that goes to the ceiling). Apparently with continuous use of blinds, it started tilting.
I already removed the blinds, as I was afraid it would get worse.
My questions are:

The metal frame does not seem to be broken/ripped, just bent. It seems this long metal frame is not easily removable (and it is quite long - like 9 feet. How to fix this bending? Is it necessary to replace the metal frame entirely?
Were the blinds installed in the incorrect way? Instead of being supported by the metal bracket, maybe they should have been supported by the top part (or both)? I can't figure what the top is. It seems the front joint (facing the apartment) is metal because it attracts a magnet, but the narrow material where blinds could be installed I'm not sure.
How to install the new blinds since this metal frame is not rigid enough? I'm not sure the top would be strong enough to hold the blinds, and they could fall down.

Pictures:

Thank you!


texts: Do I need to use a Sewage/Ejector pump if there's no toilet in the basement?

texts:
My home has a sump pit and an ejector pit, but I'm wondering if I can just use sump pumps in both pits.

There's is no toilet or shower in the basement, so the only thing that drains into the ejector pit is the washing machine. Am I ok to just use a sump pump in that pit since they are generally cheaper than the Ejector/Sewage pumps?


texts: How do I mount a flat object on a rounded roof tile?

texts:
My objective is to mount the plastic (Home Depot) owl in the 1st image below (flat underneath) at the end of the roof in the 2nd image. Although you can't see the roof in the image where it will mount it has a rounded tile.

What would be the best/easiest way to do this? Or asked more generically, how does a flat bottomed object get mounted securely onto a rounded surface?


texts: Do I need to add studs to install a floating vanity in this layout?

texts:
The vanity will have one sink unlike in the picture, one piece, 48" wide.
The vanity position is exact, the distance between studs measurements are exact for the right side but aproximative for the left side where as you can see in the picture the studs are not plumb
Rendering

Rel life picture

The cabinet is this one
https://www.bathdepot.ca/48in-walnut-wall-mount-vanity-set-with-porcelain-top-essence-collection-vw4818-23wal-127.html


texts: What size bulb replaces these in a Harbor Beeze ceiling fan?

texts:
My house has several Harbor Breeze ceiling fans.  Two bulbs have burned out but I can't seem to find what size bulbs should replace them.  Here's a picture of one of the burned bulbs (right) and a generic ceiling fan bulb with an intermediate A15 base (left).

I've searched around Home Depot and Amazon but haven't found what size this is.  There's also no model number on the outside of the fan that I can find to look up the manual.  Any ideas?


texts: I am removing wall paneling and this is in the corner of the room and wondering if it is safe to remove


texts: Prefereable air intake temperature for condensor-typed tumble dryer

texts:
I have one of those tumble dryers with a condensor - it sucks air from the room with a fan, passes the air through the inside of a 'radiator' like apparatus (as to 'cool' it), and then straight into the drum chamber. from the drum chamber the (warm) air with moist passes through the external side of the radiator, and then condensation occurs.

As the air (from the room) intake is responsible for the 'cooling' of the radiator, would it be better if the room temperature will be a bit cool, as to increase the cooling effect of the radiator?
As a result of the tumble dryers work, The room gets very warm, which causes the air intake temperature to increase greatly.

On the downside, cooling the outside air means the tumble dryer will have to invest more energy in warming it again.

So what would be better:

1) Leave everything as is - let the tumble dryer suck the warm air from the room, thus making it use less energy for heating up the air, but more time to work as condensation is less efficient

2) Turn on the air conditioner in the room - let the tumble dryer suck the cooler air from the room, thus making it more efficient (condensation wise), but make it use more energy to heat up the air


texts:
I have a hose reel where this one piece has broken.
I literally can not come to spend another $100 on the entire assembly when all that's broken is this piece, but I don't even know what to search for in this case.
Our big-box stores definitely don't carry it.
It allows the assembly to spin (for reeling in, and unreeling)...

This is where it goes:


texts:
I am starting my first DIY project -- a workbench for my 2 year old.  I'd like the bench to function in two ways.  With the table top on, it will be a traditional workbench surface.  But I'd like to be able to remove the table top, as well, to have more of a "potting bench" setup, where I can place bins for other "sensory projects" (think preschool activities).

I've seen some plans for potting benches that have cleats to secure the table top.  But because this is for a toddler, I'm concerned he'd accidentally lean on the table top edge and tip off the top (the table top extends a couple inches around the frame).  I've also thought about using dowels.  Can anybody recommend a simple way to attach the table so that it can be removed and replaced without too much hassle, but still be "secure" for a toddler?

Thanks!


texts: Can I put wallpaper on top of wallpaper on the ceiling?

texts:
After using heavily a steamer on the walls, the wallpaper of the ceiling is full of brownish areas due to steam. I also damaged the wallpaper in some corners.

I figured that instead of removing this ceiling wallpaper and paint the ceiling, it'll be easier to simply put a new wallpaper on top of this wallpaper.

But although I find a lot of resources about papering a bare ceiling, I found none about papering a ceiling on top of an existing ceiling wallpaper. Is it possible in the first place? Is there any problem compared to papering a bare ceiling?


texts: Keep bedroom doors closed or open with radiators?

texts:
I see that with induced hot air heating it is advised to keep (bedroom) doors open, but I am wondering if the same advice applies for heating with wall mounted radiators.

I have a two bedroom apartment on two levels. Should I keep the upstairs bedroom doors closed or not? Does the decision depend on the structure of the house or is there a general rule that applies to homes heated with radiators? I see a lot of conflicting opinions on the matter.


texts:
I have a mystery pipe in my garage which spews water occasionally (can't tell when why). The black flexible pipe is just a small pipe that connect to any drain and just lies on the ground. This is how the previous owners left it. The water that comes out of the pipe can be cloudy/dirty with food particles which makes me think this is connected to the kitchen sink drain somehow.

What's the purpose of this pipe?
Where should it lead to?
What should I do with it?

I occasionally see it spewing enough water to cause a medium pool of water in the garage. I'd like to close/fix it the way it's supposed to.


texts:
I have a small PV system for my shed.  Just setting up and testing at this point.

90W panel
MPPT T20 charge controller - 20 AMP
120ah 12 volt battery

Only one led light connected to load.

I am not sure if the battery is just not discharged enough for charging or my panel controller is not allowing the battery to charge?  The icon for sun does not show anything at all.  The panel is producing some load according to my metre.

https://ibb.co/miqQX8
https://ibb.co/kv03Ko
https://ibb.co/nQTqzo
https://ibb.co/bQ3qzo

Thanks


texts:
My attic has a ceiling light controlled by two 3 way switches connected with BX 14/3. Source and light wires were old knob & tube now replaced with Romex 14/2.

The duplex outlet is a new addition. The attached diagram is how I thought it could be wired. The duplex and switch 1 will be in one box. Romex 14/2 from source and light and BX will enter the box.

The diagram shows source connected to duplex. Then a short black wire runs from other duplex hot terminal, wire nutted to BX white wire with black tape, to common on switch 2. Load runs from common on switch 1 to light. I didn’t show ground wires to keep diagram simple, but everything will be grounded. The purpose of this layout was to minimize pigtails & wire nuts. Does this layout meet the NEC?

I posted this again because I couldn't find my original post so thought it didn't get posted. The only difference from the first post was the added sentence stating the purpose of the layout.

Thanks,
henrylr


texts:
how do I fix a breaker that trips when the window ac is on?
I have tried unplugging other appliances . The breaker box is an old one.


texts: Should I build the Kitchen Island on top of tile or remove?

texts:
I am rebuilding my kitchen island it has a half wall already installed which is secured to the concrete floor.  I want to extend the wall and make the island bigger.  To do that the wall will extend over existing tile.  Is it OK to drill holes through the grout and fasten the wall extension to the concrete.  The wall would be on top of the ceramic tile or would it be better to cut out the tile a space big enough to put the wood wall directly to the concrete subfloor.

I have seen it done both ways but which is the best and most correct way to build it?


texts: looking for manual for Nokky airconditioner

texts:
Got an old air conditioner (Nokky) that displays an error. Because the manual is missing I've no idea what's wrong.
Searching the net does not give any results: the brand is not known. Does anyone knows the brand Nokky and can identify this model (and has some documentaion)?


texts: Range Hood Ventilation - Working around a stud

texts:
I need to install a simple under the cabinet range hood with ventilation to the outside.  Of course, there is a stud blocking the easy horizontal path to the adjacent exterior wall.  I suppose I could go straight up out the roof.  But I am not doing that myself.  My questions are:

Is there such thing as a standard adapters suited to solve this problem?  The stud is offset about 2" from where the center of the centered vent would be if there were no stud.
Is there such thing as a range hood designed with this scenario in mind?  i.e. one with an offset vent.

Surprisingly haven't been able to find answers to those questions googling.  Only suggestion I've seen is to make a detailed drawing of what you want and take it to a sheet metal shop.  I don't trust myself to generate a good enough drawing.

Other option is to move the stud.  I think I know how to do that, but it would be nice if that mess could be avoided.


texts:
I am trying to install a motion activated light switch in my basement of my condo in the United States. On the switch it states that it's max load is 500 watts which should be plenty since the switch itself as far as I'm aware only controls 5 lights in my basement which are at max 60 watts combined.

The switch that I got has 4 wires, a red load a white neutral a green ground and a black hot wire. In the gang box of my basement, when I took the current switch out, this is what I saw:

In the above photos, you can see three separate groups of wires each with white insulation on the three groups of wires within the gang box. Within each of the three groups, there is one black wire, one white wire and one ground. The three white wires were not in use by the previous switch so they were all joined together and a wire nut was used. I saw that the three grounds from the three separate groups were all combined and connected to the bottom ground of the previous light switch. Two black wires were connected to one black wire clamp while one other black wire was connected to another black wire clamp.

I never came across something like this before but I attempted to connect the new switch to this wiring. Below is a picture of the new switch wiring I am trying to put in.

When I took all the wires off of the old switch, I turned the circuit back on and I found that the entire circuit was not complete since I found that this one circuit energized my living room and basement, even though this switch only powers 5 lights in my basement. I was wondering, since there is a sump pump on the circuit (but not controlled by the light switch), would this light switch not be able to handle the sump pump kicking on?

Since I never came across a gang box like this before, I was wondering, it is possible to safely wire this new switch in? If so, how would I go about doing so? Thank you.

EDIT: Also, when I use a non-contact voltage tester, it appears as though only one black wire out of the three groups is hot when the circuit is flipped on.

Also, here is a link to the switch that I am trying to install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752W92LJ/?tag=stackoverfl08-20


texts: How much indoor condensation is too much?

texts:
We recently bought a 1939 wooden house in California. I don't know if the windows are original but they sure aren't new. We're in a pretty mild climate, so we might get a morning frost from time to time but that is as cold as it gets. We keep the thermostat around 63° (17°) during the day and off entirely at night -- the sellers' thermostat was broken and wouldn't move off 70° (21℃) so I'm guessing they kept the house a lot warmer.

I've noticed that in the morning all of our windows are fogged. That seems to clear over the day and we don't get pooling or drips. So I'm wondering if we need to do more to reduce the humidity?

I read this question, about exterior condensation:
How much condensation is okay on storm windows?

But I'm concerned about indoor condensation.


texts:
As you can see on photos there are some burn marks. Really hot moka pot dropped down and I want remove them.What would you suggest me?

P.s.: I am actually not sure if flooring is pvc
P.s:.I thought about grinding it with sandpaper and then fill it with something


texts: previous owner painted over door latches, preventing doors from closing - how to proceed?

texts:
This door (pictured below) used to work just fine, but my superstitious mother, may she rest in peace, painted over it to prevent it from closing. Now it is sealed open. Since it is the door to the bathroom and I intend to rent out the house, I would like to get it in working order again. Is there a way to repair this? Do I need to replace the entire door?
Note that this procedure has also been applied to several other doors in the house, so I will be looking to implement a solution multiple times over.


texts: Why won't my toilet hold the refill water?

texts:
I know there are several posts on toilet fill valves and supply lines, but I'm afraid that my issue may be much worse.

My toilet was draining slowly so I got a professional grade auger and ran it into the toilet. The toilet still drains slowly, but now when it tries to refill the bowl, it won't stay filled but completely drains out.

I don't see any visible leaks on the sides of the toilet.  What could be going on?


texts: Can I use a gutted sub panel as a junction box

texts:
I am going to be replacing my all in one 100A breaker panel with a 200A panel. The old panel has the ground/neutral bus at the bottom of the box and the wires are cut too short to reach the bus bars on the new box. The hot wires may also pose a challenge as well. I have been looking for recessed J boxes but find it impossible to find online. So I was thinking of getting a indoor recessed breaker panel and gutting it and using it for a J box. Does anyone know if this will pass inspection?

I know I can use connectors in the main panel, but I prefer to do a cleaner job in the breaker box.


texts: What is this button/switch by Garage door connected garage opener

texts: Moved into this house last year , Trying to figure out what this button does ? the white wire goes to garage opener. .  Tried pressing it while the garage door is opening/closing ,nothing happens.


texts: Just installed natural gas fire pit and now getting a whistling sound

texts:
Just installed  fire pit and now getting a whistling sound in the house when fire pit on full range .I'm going to explain what type of pipe and size of pipe..... 4 years ago decided to build a outdoor kitchen during my construction had 1/2inch pipe coming out of my home so I tapped into that using flex tube to black pipe and made connection to bbq worked flawless... and now I was able to build an a fire pit ...now on this construction project I tapped into the existing  1/2 inch pipe from my Bbq .... so what I did was run a tee down with 2 turn off valves ... one valve ging bbq and the other going to the fire pit
All this is 1/2 pipe till after  the tee split fron there it goes 3/4 flex tube to 3/4inch green gas pipe roughly going out 15feet to my 4x6 fire pit .... the burner is a 3feet by 10inch wide .
Not sure if this is normal operation , can someone please explain in if this is okay or will I some professional help in this.
Thank you .


texts: How hard should water based polyurethane get?

texts: I made a farmhouse table and stained it with Rust-oleum water based stain and then use the Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane on top. I have let the table sit out in the garage for a week to cure, but I case still scratch it with my finger nail, like hard wax. Is this normal or will it cure harder? Is this a bad Polyurethane to use?


texts: Two dryer vent connections in the laundry room

texts: We just bought a new house recently. I was hooking up the dryer and noticed I have what appear to be two dryer vent connections in the wall. One was labeled "vent" and the other was capped. I'm  curious, does anyone know what the second connection is for?


texts: Would love your advice on connecting a new light to the existing wiring on our ceiling light please! It’s a lot more wiring than I’ve seen on other images. And certainly more connections than the Neutral, Live and Earth one on the new fitting.


texts: How can I repair this damage to the walls in my garage?

texts: The walls in my garage look terrible, they are ripped at the bottom all around the entire garage. I have no idea what caused this. What's the best way to fix something like this? I've also got foam insulation oozing out all over the place beneath the tears.


texts: Should I replace my septic tank if I don't need to?

texts:
Our house is 40-50 years old, and we've recently discovered that our drain field is shot. We're getting that replaced, and figured we may as well replace the tank while we're at it.

Are there any down sides to replacing a functioning septic tank? The thought process is that the cost is cheaper to do it now than later (already digging things up, etc) and that we already have the permit approved (included with the drain field repair).

Specifically, I want to know if older septic tanks are characteristically better than newer tanks. For example, was the cement used 50 years ago better quality? Would I be replacing it with a comparatively shoddy replacement?

For instance, I wouldn't replace a door while renovating the wall around it...even if a new door was free: the old doors are solid wood and wonderfully built, whereas newer doors are cheap and flimsy. I realize that's a broad generalization, but you get the idea.


texts: How do I replace an A/C diffuser attached to flex duct?

texts:
Our house has central air, with the air distributed via flex ducts around the house.  On the second floor, the diffusers have baffles behind them that can be closed when the system is not in use, but the mechanism on these devices isn't very well built and on some has actually broken.

I'd like to replace them, but I'm not exactly sure what to call all the parts.  On the outside is what I would call a diffuser, but that's attached to some sort of plastic collar that (a) houses the baffle and (b) attaches to the flex duct via a long zip tie.

The whole assembly is clamped onto the ceiling via screws that connect to a little plastic "wing" that swings out when everything is tightened.

I'm not sure where to find these assemblies.  The local Home Depot carries diffusers, but they don't have anything like the plastic collars with the baffles, and my Googling to date hasn't turned up the right thing.

I suspect part of my problem is that I don't know the nomenclature.  I'm hoping you folks can help point me in the right direction.

This is the collar:

This is the diffuser:

The screw holes on the diffuser match up with channels in the collar.


texts: Sharkbite fitting connection is leaking around painted pipe

texts: I just installed this sharkbite valve. 1/2 copper pipe. The right side of the valve is dry, but the left side is leaking. What could be the problem? I tried pushing more of the right side of the pipe into the valve but it won’t go any further. What can I do from here? Cut it out and get a longer valve to make up the space difference?


texts: What's causing my draft inducer to stay on?

texts:
I have a new, 3-year old, high-efficiency, gas furnace in my home.  I recently realized that my draft inducer, which normally kicks on before the burners and before the main blower, is not stopping.

In the past, this was the normal sequence:
0) Everything Off;
1) Draft Inducer starts;
2) Burners ignite;
3) Blower starts;
4) Burners cut out;
5) Blower and Draft Inducer stop.

Now, instead of the blower and draft inducer both stopping, the blower alone stops.  The draft inducer continues to run.  The Burners kick on, etc.  Instead of 1-5, it's going 2-5 without the draft inducer ever stopping.  Why?  What should I do about it?

Maybe I'm asking the wrong question.  Maybe I ought to be asking why my furnace isn't staying on long enough to raise the temperature 3 degrees.  I think it's shutting off prematurely and immediately starting a new cycle.


texts: Restrictions on 90 Degree Elbow for a Bathroom Exhaust Fan?

texts:
The manual for a certain (100CFM/4") bathroom exhaust fan has a restriction on using 90-degree elbows close to the unit.

Why is this? Is it okay to use 90-degree elbows further down the exhaust path? (The image would suggest so, but I guess it couldn't hurt to check) Is there any good reason for this restriction?

Fan Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Breez-GreenBuilder-Series-100-CFM-Wall-or-Ceiling-Bathroom-Exhaust-Fan-ENERGY-STAR-GBR100/204347760

Image from Manual:


texts: How can I prepare this natural gas line so I can connect a grill?

texts:
When we moved into our new house the builder mentioned there was a gas line coming out of the house. I'd like to use this to  connect a grill. However, looking at the gas pipe I don't see any kind of valve to shut off the gas (attached image).
Would I be able to just pop off the cap and connect the grill, or am I missing any other parts?


texts: Painting walls after taking down wallpaper

texts: What do I need to do to be able to paint walls that at one time had wallpaper on them. I want to take wallpaper down and then paint. Help


texts: What is the proper and accurate way to measure space for window screens?

texts:
One of our metal windows is missing a screen and I'd like to replace it.  I don't have other windows of the same size so I can't easily copy the screen dimensions.  How should I measure the window opening so that the new screen will install properly?  The instructions that were included with my screen framing kit are insufficient and literally say "measure the opening".

Mr. Google suggested measuring the full length of the screen opening and subtracting 1/16".  If I do that though, I would think that the screen would be too big to fit.  Can I get some advise on where exactly I should measure?


texts: How to fix or replace the timer button of a microwave oven?

texts:
I have a microwave oven which timer button is broken. I would like to fix it (by using glue?) or replace it (with a similar "key"). The oven is a Samsung M1714.

However, I am afraid of making things worse if I try to repair it, and I do not know any shop where I could buy something similar. I noticed there is the number 3 written on the inside of the broken piece.

Do you know an online shop for this kind of thing?

Here are several shots:


texts: How to prevent the slats coming off the side beams of a baby's cot?

texts:
Recently somehow our son's cot was broken and I had to take out the frame to see and it had loose slats and other parts coming off.

How can I keep the slats in the side beams and make sure they are tight?


texts: How do I flash two joining peaks of different heights?

texts: I'm trying to figure out how to flash this part of a shed I'm building that has a peak meeting flush with a larger roof section next to it.  But I can't figure out what this sort of roof section is called so I can't seem to find any good information on google.  What is this called, or how do I flash it?


texts: The toilet in the Master Bath is NOT clogged but, there is a forceful air compression into the bowl from an exterior source. All other toilets, sinks and showers seem to be unaffected by this issue. What could be causing the air to explode back into the toilet bowl?


texts: Why does my bathroom cold water faucet cut off while in use?

texts: Can someone with plumbing experience help me


texts: How to move building material, including large timbers, onto my property?

texts:
I'm trying to build a small house on my rural property. I'm trying to use a building kit, which is delivered normally by a series of 18-wheelers. It includes large timbers, such as six 6x8 x 14ft treated posts (over 140 lb each) and dozens of 2x10s 10 feet long and longer. Plus pallets of roofing steel.

And I'm only one person - having someone to help isn't impossible, but it may be difficult.

I'm up a roughly half mile gravel private road and a 250 yard gravel driveway, the latter being kind of hilly, narrow, and winding. There's no chance that the 18-wheeler will go up the driveway, and it may not go down the private road.

My assets include a 4x4 pickup truck with lumber racks and some block and tackle type equipment. I also can potentially rent heavy equipment, though that has difficulties.

I was thinking possibly something like this might be practical: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200673741_200673741


texts: Does big current draw make GFCI outlets go bad?

texts: About 2 years ago during a kitchen update, I replaced a GFCI outlet with a new one, 20-amp (both pass through and the GFCI outlet itself). Branching downstream from it are two more outlets, one on the other side of the sink, and one right behind it on the outside of the house. It's an up-to-date "lock" GFCI, is wired correctly and has always tested and functioned correctly. Last week having a new roof put on, the roofers plugged a pretty heavy-duty looking air compressor into the outside outlet. After about an hour, the GFCI tripped. Now, plugging just about anything into the outside outlet is causing it to trip after a few minutes' use, for example yesterday, my shop vac. I have used the shop vac in that outlet many times before with no problem. So, my question is, did the current draw by the air compressor damage the GFCI (it still tests fine). If so, I guess I better replace it.


texts: Is it possible for bed bugs to crawl but not bite when they are in their younger stages? Recently, every time I lay my hands or legs on a particular piece of furniture (a wooden chair) in my house, I can feel a crawling sensation. To eliminate the possibility that this is a phantom itch, I also called a friend to independently verify this. Though I can't see anything visible to the naked eye, I was wondering if this could be the indications of a mild bed bug infestation. Is there anything that I can do to detect bedbugs "at this stage"? I know there are a lot of DIY suggestions in this site for detection post infestation.


texts: Toilet Tank slow leak, have all new parts, tried all troubleshooting...help!

texts:
Just installed the Fluidmaster 400ARHRK (http://www.fluidmaster.com/our-products/toilet-fill-valves-toilet-parts/400arhrkp10-performaxr-all-in-one-toilet-repair-kit.html) and we still have a slow leak of about 1/2" in the tank. Can't figure it out. The water in the tank drops about 1/2" maybe every hour or so. The tank refills to the proper level. Then it will drop again 1/2". Repeat.

You can see the discrepancy in the water level in the photo below, the tank has lost water about 1/2".

When I shut off the water supply to the tank the tank looses more water but doesn't empty.

There are no leaks onto the floor, on the outside of the tank or anything like that.

There is plenty of slack in the the flapper chain. Flapper fits snugly. The kit came with a new rubber gasket as well.

I saw this on another forum, which is what we are experiencing: "If it drains down to a certain point and stops, then you have the small refill tube stuck too far down into the overflow pipe." But in our case the refill tube sits above the overflow pipe - see photo below.

We don't see any pieces of the old flapper or any "debris" that could be stuck somewhere to cause the tank to lose water. We are thinking of disassembling and starting over but can't see that helping.

Any ideas??

Not sure if this makes any difference, I turned off the water supply from the house to the tank this morning and at lunch the tank is totally dry. Does this help me at all?

So I know the water is leaking into the bowl and not the floor/outside the tank.

Should I still do the dye test? Will that pinpoint where the leak is occurring (flapper, overflow pipe, seal beneath flapper)? Or does the dye test just show you it's leaking into the bowl (which I already know)?

They sell a seal of sorts I see that you put on top of the thing that the flapper lid (I think) closes down on that is supposed to maybe help flapper leaks. Should I get this?

I just know if I will be able to determine from where the leak is occurring...?


texts: How to use an older Sears Craftsman pad sander

texts:
I have a 1/2 sheet pad sander and I can't find the user manual online.

Sears Craftsman Model p11616.

I also can't figure out how to attach the sand paper. It us designed to use adhesive and non-adhesive backed paper.

Below is a picture of the clasp to secure the paper and I can't make sense if it. It is just shredding the ends of the paper. I can't find a logical way for the full width of the paper to be secured.


texts: Reliability of Security+ 2.0 versus Security+ LiftMaster Garage Door Opener

texts:
I have a circa 2001 Chamberlain LiftMaster garage door opener that randomly does not respond to wireless remotes (both car remotes and a wireless keypad). This morning I used the wireless keypad to close the door, then 20 minutes later tried to use the wireless keypad to open the door which failed. I then tried to use a wireless remote that was less than 6 ft from the opener and that also failed. 30 minutes later I left the house and was able to close the door from 60 or so feet away (as normal). I had similar issues last winter and no problems at all over the summer.

Because I had issues last winter, I purchased an upgrade kit to try to alleviate these issues but only recently installed it. My understanding is that my old remotes will still be talking to the overhead opener unit but that I could possibly purchase a Security+ 2.0 remote that would talk to the wall unit. Is this how it works? Do Security+ 2.0 remotes handle interference better? Or would I be better off just buying a whole new opener system?

Admittedly this question is similar to this existing one however, my question is would upgrading to Security +2.0 remotes be a good thing to try prior to replacing the opener.


texts:
Old fixture:  combination fan and light
New fixture: fan only

New fixture wiring: 1 white, 1 black, 1 green
Existing wiring: 1 white, 1 black, 1 bare copper, 1 red

Wall switch: red & black twisted together, black

To hook up wiring do I: white to white, black & red to black, and green to bare copper?


texts: How do I connect router-modem to existing central panel?

texts:
I suddenly realized my house was prewired with Cat5e and found the panel. I'm confused on how to hook up the modem. The modem receives a connection over an RG6 coax cable. The panel looks like this:

Near the bottom is something called a patch module. I'm not sure if I need this.

I know that I can probably take those RJ45s hooked up in the telephone distribution module and hook them into the few spaces I have on the router (I only need a few rooms). However, I have no idea how to hook up the router/modem. Do I unplug the CATV Link and hook it up to the router/modem?


texts: Why does my receptacle tester say open ground on my new outlet?

texts: I replaced an outlet and the tester says open ground. I checked all the wires and they are secure including the ground wire. What could be wrong?


texts: how to wire a polarized wire to a switch?

texts:
So I have a work bench and I'm building a box that will cover all my cables and outlets and generally make my work area look a million times better. My biggest issue is I have two sets of led lights that usually I plug/unplug to turn on/off to the mains power however this project will cover my plugs so I cant do that so easily (I can open this box but the goal isn't to open to operate lights).

The main plan was to wire these lights thru a light switch that we have mounted on the outside like a normal light switch but I'm unsure how to do this given I can only find switches that require a ground but I don't have a ground. how should I go about doing this in a safe manner?


texts: Can I use 14 AWG pigtails on a 20 amp 12 AWG circuit with 15 amp receptacles?

texts: It seems like this would be OK for the ground pigtail, and probably OK for the hot and neutral too since the receptacle is ony 15 amp capacity. But I wonder if there are safety issues I'm not considering and what the electrical code has to say about it.


texts: I have a new home and noticed brownish water dripping from the soffits. They overhang 16". The house has a metal roof with ice and water shield and insulated with spray foam insulation. I was told that soffit vents were not necessary with this type of insulation.


texts: Identifying microwave diode that goes from transformer to capacitor

texts:
I have a Panasonic Microwave oven (Model: nn-mx25wf). A couple months ago the fuse blew and had to replace it along with the capacitor and diode that connects from the capacitor to the chassis. The original capacitor had 3 terminals on the left side and one on the right. The new capacitor I got just had 2 terminals on each side.

It seems that when I tried to splice the copper wire with the high voltage solid aluminum wire with the diode, the solid aluminum wires broke off.

Now I need a new diode, but the letters erased off of it and not sure what it is. One side of the diode connects to one of the capacitor connector while the other to the other side of the capacitor.

Need some help on identifying the diode and proper splicing technic or hardware necessary to splice solid thin aluminum high voltage wire to copper wire.

Edit:

Here is where I got the Service Manual from.

Here is the link to the program to view the SGM files.

The Service Manual specifies the diode with the cable as part F606V5G10XN, but can't find any info anywhere and no-one carries it or has any info on it.

I went to a local electronics shop and they sold me the same diode that goes to the chasis from the capacitor. Would it be ok to use that one?


texts:
I have a 30 year old shed 50' from my house that was wired with two lites and three outlets.  They worked had electricity when I moved in 6 months ago.  I suspect the the underground cable was somehow severed when the gas co dug a trench in my backyard in August. They deny it.
Is there any way a break in the line can be located and repaired.
I checked the circuit breaker panel and they are all on.had electricity


texts: Pressure balance Am Stand hot and cold inlets are switched side to side. No cold water, only HOT. Remedy?

texts:
Our shower was working fine for a couple years but started periodically only producing hot water ( single handle american standard /am 11. cartridge ) but no cold. All other fixtures in bathroom still have cold water. I replaced the cartridge but still have the same issue.
As a side note, the hot water comes into the valve body on the right side (not left as is usual). It has always been like this.


texts: Help with wiring a computer PWM fan to DC voltage

texts:
I've recently purchased a "fume extractor" from China which is basically a filter with a pc fan behind it. The Fan pre-installed isn't really doing much of anything and I would like to replace it with a powerful PC fan that I have lying around.

Pictures can be found here:
https://imgur.com/a/Fm3p6lt

I have a multimeter lying around but am not really proficient with it. The diagrams that I can find on the web for PWM fans state that Black should be ground and yellow should be 12v. The pre installed fan only sported 2 wires instead of the 4 of mine and thus isn't anything to go by.

Can I just hook up the ground / 12v wire to the corresponding wires from the "fume extractor" or is there anything else I should be aware of?


texts: Is there a way to remove condensation and clean inside a double pane window?

texts:
I have some double pane windows with failed seals.   They get condensation inside.   When it dries it leaves unsightly residue that I can't figure out how to clean off.

I know that I could replace the windows, but that seems wasteful for what is mostly a cosmetic problem.

Are there any clever ways of cleaning between the panes?   Maybe all windows should come with magnetic cleaners like they have for the inside of fish tanks.


texts: How often should alkaline batteries be checked when they are in a device?

texts: I have the problem of leaving alkaline batteries in various devices, and have lost some I could not clean with vinegar.  If I don't use the device, I take the batteries out.  But a lot of devices are used frequently.  To avoid leakages, how often should the batteries be checked, and how should they be checked?


texts: When calculating rebuilding costs for insurance purposes, should foundation replacement be considered?

texts: In this question I asked at what temperature a foundation becomes unusable for rebuilding purposes. The answer was a fairly low 570°F (~299°C). A house fire that burns a structure to the ground would probably raise the temperature of the foundation at least that high in enough areas to render that portion unusable. I'd think house fires that get that hot are rare, though possibly a bit more likely depending on the environment in which the house is located (e.g. rural, out in the boonies). Adding foundation replacement to one's insurance would certainly raise the cost of said insurance. On the other hand, should a house be destroyed in such a manner and you didn't factor in foundation replacement, there could be a significant out-of-pocket cost to rebuild. So, should we include foundation replacement in our insurance policy's rebuilding estimate?If the community feels this is off-topic, I'll gladly delete it. It really doesn't have anything to do with DIY.


texts: How do you determine if a door is Right Handed (RH) or Left Handed (LH)?

texts: I am replacing a few interior doors and I need to know if the existing door is Right Handed or Left Handed so I have them drilled correctly.  Sounds like the acronyms for this are RH and LH.  This also would apply for new pre-hung doors as well I assume as they are all marked that way at the mega home improvement stores.


texts: Making an attic space into walkin closet

texts: I have an attic space which is on top of my living room and 13'X20' size. I am trying to convert this space into a walk in closet. It has 14, 2x4’s joists spacing 16” on center on 13’ direction. It has purlin on 20’ direction and has 2 braces diagonally attached to the Purlin probably to support the Rafters.  To make this area strong I am thinking about adding more 2x4’s or 2x6’s in between the existing 2X4’s ones. I also want to remove the Purlin by adding knee wall to support the roof. Will it be a good suggestions to do this?  And then put ¾” plywood and on top laminate floor. Or is there any new way you can suggest me to remove the bracing and have clear usable space. Please provide me suggestions.


texts: Should I be concerned if there is a small gap in the mortar when tiling?

texts:
I recently had a room tiled and during the installation I had noticed the workers were putting a small empty space in the mortar underneath some tiles. They wanted to adjust the alignment of the tiles so they removed the mortar separating them and then pushed them horizontally. They told me that this was not a problem and that the tiles should resist despite the small gap below.

The problem is that now I'm wondering whether what they said was true or not.


texts: What causes the chirping sound coming from my 250 natural gas meter?

texts: When gas is flowing through the meter, I hear a steady, slow chirping sound (perhaps a chirp every 5 to 10 seconds).  Is this an indication that the meter (35 years old) is coming to the end of its life?  Should I be concerned about the chirping?


texts: What mortar should I use for 8x10 and mosaic wall tile?

texts:
I will be tiling a tub/shower area using 8x10 ceramic tile with glass mosaic tile accent rows.

I see about half a dozen varieties of thin-set on the market:

Weights:
 - 25lb
 - 50lb

Types:
 - fortified
 - standard
 - flexbond

About every combination of the weights and types you can imagine is available.

What is the right thinset for my installation?


texts:
My toilet drips and I have no idea what to do about it.

It's a vertical style plunger with a button on top (not a handle) with 2 flushes. I can stop it constantly filling by using a pen to raise the float, which stops the water filling. However, the water continues to drain out until empty.

What do I need to check /test to find the source of the problem?

Many thanks


texts: How should I fill the holes in my floor to prevent mice from getting in?

texts: I live an old apartment building and discovered a month into my lease that my apartment has a mouse problem. No matter how may times I bait or trap, I have no luck. It it appears that this might be because the mice live under the floorboards and between apartments, darting in and out of holes in my hardwood floor around every radiator, the cabinet beside my gas stove, and the toilet. If I make it bad for them, cleaning and putting out traps, they just leave, only to come back once I get lazy or leave anything out they might eat or hide inside. The holes themselves are decent sized, around an inch on the radiator and 2-4 inches on the toilet and cabinet. Shining a flash-light into them lets me see down into the floorboards and it looks like  they might all be connected, at least to the mice. Management doesn't care, I can't just move, and I'm done almost stepping on mice when I finish my morning shower. Is expanding foam my best bet here? Are there any other options?


texts:
I bought some LED strip lighting and it just arrived:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LXZKPWY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

It's 5m but I only need about a metre so need to cut it to size. There are cut marks on it but how do I join the cuts?

I now noticed further down the page it shows other items and connectors, is that what I need? Apparently they'll take a month to deliver if I order which is awful, so is there any other way? Are these kind of things at electrical stores?


texts: How do I remove shower handle to change stem?

texts:
It’s an old Price Pfister 3 handle shower system. The shower leaks cold water when it’s turned off.

I watched some videos and now I can’t  get past the first step, pulling off the handle.

I removed the screw.
Soaked the handle in white vinegar with a plastic bag and rubber band.
Wiggles it. Wiggles it some more.
Nothing.

Could there be anything else holding on this handle? Is there some experienced move to reduce the pressure like turning the handle all the way open before removing?


texts: How can I install a new internal nonbearing concrete block wall in basement to partition off for bathroom?

texts: house is built of concrete blocks, so basement floor is poured concrete and ceiling also. Want to know how to secure wall being built to ceiling and not having wall collapse


texts: We live at the end of the service line and all of our cold water faucets keep plugging off down to a trickle.  How do we stop this and how do we fix it?


texts: How do I ground a light fixture with two ground wires and only one ground at junction box?

texts: I am replacing a light fixture and there is a black wire, a white wire, a green wire, and a bare copper wire. At the junction box I have a black wire, a ground wire, and a bare copper (ground) wire. There is also a green ground screw on the base plate of the new fixture, which I attached to the junction box with screws (included with fixture). I do not know how to attach the ground wires. Do I connect the copper wires together and connect the green wire to the green ground screw on the junction box? Do I connect all three wires together? If I connect all three together, do I need to pass on through the ground screw, or do I need another wire connecting the ground screw to the bundle of three, thus making a bundle of four? Any help would be great. I attached a photo of the wires coming from the fixture and the junction box so you can see what I am looking at.


texts: How can I disable a turn button lock without destroying it?

texts: This has been asked before, but answers often center around "don't use the lock" or put something in the slot. The door to my patio/pool has deadbolts and a lever lock.  No one ever admits doing it, but somehow the button on the lever ends up in the locked position.  We were once locked out in night clothes.  Putting something in the slot would keep the door from simply fastening without locking.  "Don't use it" has been our intent all along, but something goes wrong. A new lock, etc, is not likely to help.  I don't want to cut a connecting rod and destroy the lock.


texts: How do I hook this 18-bulb lamp together?

texts:
I have an 18-bulb chandelier from Globe Electric.  I need to connect 19 wires together twice inside this lamp.

I've bundled the wires into 4 sets of 9 using washers and electrical tape.  The instructions are lacking.  See photos.  Besides "carefully", how do I get this all together?


texts: Installing light switch that requires neutral wire - wire is continuous through box

texts: I have a new switch that requires a neutral.  There is a neutral wire in the box, in the back, but it's continuous -- comes in one side and goes out the other.  Is the proper procedure to cut it, then bundle the two ends along with the neutral going to the switch? And then cap the new bundle of course.


texts:
I've read variations on what hardware to use in bolting the toilet tank to the bowl. From a top down sequence with optional/variation items indicated in parentheses:

bolt

(metal washer)

rubber washer

tank

(rubber washer)

(metal washer)

(nut)

bowl

(rubber washer)

metal washer

[wing]nut

Observations:

metal washer under bolt head seems discouraged due to possible leaks, but some feel it will provide more even pressure on the rubber washer
some avoid anything (nut, washers) between the tank and bowl, perhaps to avoid clearance issues between the tank and bowl; this means the lower nut is both providing the pressure for the seal in the tank and securing it to the bowl
the rubber washer under the bowl seems optional, maybe to help mitigate overtightening/cracking the bowl

Comments?

What sequence is recommended?


texts: How do I insulate my unfinished basement with half foundation, half siding?

texts:
I have a 1910 bungalow with an unfinished basement. The issue I'm encountering is that the main floor gets extremely cold in the winter and requires a lot of heat ($$$) to keep it warm. The unfinished basement has no insulation whatsoever, and I haven't done anything to keep the cold out other than spraying foam to plug up the gaps around pipes entering the house from the outside.

My thought process is that by insulating the unfinished basement, it won't get quite so cold, and less heat will escape downstairs/less cold air will creep upstairs. According to energy.gov, insulating the walls in a basement is preferable to insulating the ceiling between the basement and the main floor, so that's what I'm looking to do.

This is a photo of one of the walls in the basement:

I've seen lots of videos on how to insulate when you have a solid concrete wall in a basement, or how to insulate new construction, but I'm at a loss for how to approach these walls, as the top half appears to be reverse side of the bare siding and the bottom half the foundation.

How do I insulate this whole mess without risking moisture issues? Do I build a stud wall in front of the existing wall from floor to ceiling, leave an air gap between the bare siding and add a foam insulation board, then put fiberglass insulation against the foam board up to the face of the new stud wall, then attach the vapor barrier? Do I put foam insulation board directly against the concrete at the bottom or do I need an air gap there as well?

Any help (especially a diagram if possible) would be very much appreciated!


texts: How to properly repair water/bug damaged soffit and roof deck?

texts:
I removed some rotted soffit from one side of my garage this afternoon. I also ended up removing the fascia board (what the gutter mounts to) and the 2x4 that was behind the fascia because they were completely eaten away by some combination of carpenter ants, termites and water damage.
Fortunately the rafter tails, while a bit soft, seem to be in good enough condition to reuse. I do believe one of them will need sistered. Unfortunately, the last 6-12 inches of the roof deck is rotted. I would like to know the proper way to not just repair the damage, but make sure the problem that led to the moist environment is fixed, too.
I don't know much about roofing, but I think the root cause is on of two things:

The roofing underlayment (tar paper?) didn't seem to have been covering the last portion of the roof deck. But that is hard to tell because it might just be rotted away also.
The last row or two of shingles (closest to the gutter) seem cracked and maybe let water get through.

I'm looking for general advice, but I do have some specific questions:

I'm planning on letting the moisture air dry for a few days before doing anything. Is this necessary? There is a bit of rain in the forecast for the next two days which will impact the efficacy of this I'm guessing.
One bit of framing is rotted enough that it should really be replaced, but that would require removing a whole lot of trim that I would like to avoid. It is a 12" section of 2x4. If I just leave this wood in place will the rot grow? Or once the moisture problem is taken care of will that stop the spread?
Is there a way to repair the deck and just shingle that area without redoing the whole roof? Somehow chop off the foot or so of bad deck and re-shingle just the two courses that seem to be letting the moisture in? The rest of the deck is in great condition and the other shingles seem to be working just fine.
When replacing the fascia and soffit are there better materials to use than just untreated 1/2" pine? Would some of that composite trim eliminate the need to deal with this problem again down the road?

Pics below. Thanks for any help!


texts: What should I do to make good on some lightly water damaged plaster?

texts:
When we moved in to our house (an early 1970s build in the UK) we noticed some damage to the plaster above a window; the surface was uneven and some was loose. It appeared dry so the surveyors and builders and us assumed it was a problem with the RSJ and recently installed double glazed uPVC windows and so the builders simply knocked out the loose plaster and reskimmed the area. However, after the plastering was complete but before we started sealing or decorating the wall we noticed a growing damp patch and found a broken tile directly above the wall, which had been fixed up with gaffer tape which after recent rains had come away. I got roofers out and the roof has been made water tight with some new felt and our roofers are looking for replacement tiles.

After 9 days of being left in a heated room to dry the affected area looks like this:

The surface is still smooth and intact and the plaster no longer feels damp to the touch. When tapped it sounds as solid as unaffected plaster on the other bits and does not ring hollow.  The coving above looks intact though there was little water running behind it before the roof was fixed. If I run my finger over the area there is some white residue.

Should we let the plaster dry out and seal it up and decorate, or repair it somehow?


texts: Pipe threading tool for 15mm galvanised pipe

texts:
My local hardware store stocks 15mm diameter galvanised pipe fittings and lengths of galvanised pipe with threaded ends. The annoying thing is they charge $7 for a 100mm length of pipe but $16 for a 900mm length. I bought a 900mm length thinking I'd get a die set and cut and thread my own lengths.

The hardware store didn't stock and dies big enough for 15mm pipe. I've spent the last two evenings searching around for a pipe threading set with a die for 15mm pipe but can't seem to find such an item. Most of the dies I've come across are in inches rather than mm which I suspect won't work with the fittings I've got.

Can anyone give me any pointers as to whether a pipe threading tool for 15mm diameter pipe really is that exotic or where such beasties are likely to be found?


texts: Can I use a neutral from another circuit to install a 3-way switch?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Is this an acceptable way to add a light to a 3-way circuit?

My whole-house fan is currently on a dedicated circuit.  I want to convert the single-pole switch to a 3-way.  My plan is take the existing switch leg to fan and make it the traveler; the hot remains in the existing box.  On the other end I can add a 3-way switch and run a new switch leg back to fan.  Since the existing switch is downstairs, I cannot get a neutral from the fan circuit.  Can I use a neutral from another circuit as-log-as it comes from the same phase side of the circuit panel?


texts: Can I put insulation under roof between joists

texts:
I bought an old home.  There is new blown in insulation on the floor of the attic.  The attic will not be a bedroom BUT will eventually be a kid's playroom.  My plan is this:

Build a subfloor over the blown in insulation.
Put batts between the joists under the roof.
Put drywall up on the underside of the roof so the kids don't see or touch the insulation.

It won't be anything special - thick plywood floors with a rug and unfinished drywall for the roof (building a very short wall from the roof down to the floor so I don't have to drywall into the corners where the roof and floor meet.

But I keep reading that you're not suppose to put insulation under/against the roof.  There are no leaks, it's a relatively new roof.  I want to put some insulation along the ceiling/walls of the play area because we are in an area that will get cold and hot enough that kids won't want to be up there.

But what are my options if I keep reading about not putting it against the roof?  And do I need to leave a gap for the soffits if I do this?


texts: How should I build up stair stringers (instead of cutting them out)?

texts:
I'm thinking of building a stair stringer using a 2x6 and reclaimed wood triangles.
How to fix the triangles on the base, long screws, nails?


texts: What glue to hold wooden batten to ceiling for window blind

texts:
Today I attempted to put up a window blind, fixing it to the ceiling (there is no option to drill into the window frame)
My metal/pipe detector has 'pinged' where I want to drill the holes into the ceiling. I'm guessing an RSJ.
I drilled a hole any way, and it's only 1cm deep (before hitting the RSJ)! As such, I think my only option is to glue a wooden batten where the ceiling meets the wall (inside the window recess). I can then attach the blind to the wooden batten.
My question is concerning how to   affix the batten   to the ceiling. With only 1cm depth, I'm not sure rawl plugs are going to work, and it's really unclear if glue will strong enough.
Is there a glue that is designed for this purpose, or is my approach flawed?


texts:
I have an older Black and Decker KR650RE reversible hammer drill. I need to replace the chuck however the screw on the inside seems damaged. How can I remove the chuck.
Any help much appreciated. Thanks!


texts: Will a few weeks of exposure to the weather damage cementboard?

texts: I am getting ready to put Durock on my outdoor grill area. I am wrapping it with stone but it will be a few weeks before the stone comes in. Will the rain damage the cement board in any way or should I wait until the stone comes in? Was wanting to start using the grill if the weather will not hurt anything.


texts: Should I remove cold cellar wall insulation below grade to allow ground heat to warm the space in winter?

texts:
My house in southern Ontario, Canada, has a cold cellar under the front porch. The house also has a sump pump, located in the cold cellar.

The builder insulated the perimeter basement walls, including the wall separating the cold cellar from the main area of the basement, leaving the porch un-insulated and outside the warm air envelope of the house, and included two 4" vents in the cold cellar.

The original/previous owner insulated the exterior walls (down to the floor) and ceiling of the cellar and blocked up the vents, effectively making the cellar part of the warm air envelope of the house. Part of the problem of doing this is the humidity and odor introduced into the "cellar" space by the sump.

I have chosen to re-open one of the vents, and keep the (insulated) cellar door closed. The concern I have is temperature inside the cellar because of the sump (don't want it to freeze). With outside temperatures having briefly dipped to -15C, I found the cellar temperature drop to about 4C.

Can I expect the cellar and sump to remain above freezing throughout what could be a colder than average winter (can expect periods below -25C)? Will the insulated walls prevent the cellar from drawing enough ground heat to stay above freezing? In other words, should I pull off the insulation below the frost line (about 4ft below grade)?


texts: Should I add an escape register for added ventilation in A/C duct to reduce condensation?

texts:
I have a condensation and drippage problem where my 8" exposed circular AC duct comes out of the ceiling. Above the ceiling is the attic, meaning it gets pretty hot. The pipe comes out of the ceiling then makes this visible 90 then goes through the wall, makes another 90 before the first register in the hallway. Then there is one more dead end register in another bedroom. I was thinking the this elbow here in the picture, along with another elbow downstream without any escape in between, could be inducing condensation

The I was wondering if another "moisture escape" register would take care of the problem just in the middle of the horizontal part of the pipe between the elbow and the wall. See the red rectangle drawn on the below picture for the proposed location.

It can also be seen in the pictures that the short stretch of the pipe inside the ceiling but just before it comes out is uninsulated, the contractor left it like that because he put a damper there and there will be a access panel entrance in the ceiling nearby. I do plan to insulate that stretch but was not sure if that alone would solve the problem.

The overall question being, what will solve this problem? Just added insulation, an escape register, or both? Or something third?


texts: Are outer joists a different distance in "on center" floor framing?

texts:
I've watched some videos and talked to a contractor buddy about how to do floor framing. "16 inches on center" is the phrase I keep hearing, and I understand that that will ensure a layout divisible by 4 feet.

However, if they were really all 16 inches on center, there would be an extra width of 1 1/2 inches (assuming 2-by framing material) because the outer joists would be a factor of 16 inches in distance on center. Based on reading and watching the proper method, it appears that the outer joists are actually 15 1/4 inches on center from the second joists since they start the second joist at 16 inches on center from the end of the rim joist. Is that correct?

By the way, this is just a tiny shed and I'm not messing around with double joists. But my current best guess it that the outer joists are simply ignored in the N-on-center scheme.


texts: On demand water heater using a propane tank

texts:
I have a single wide trailer. (The main gas line blew out the back and is under code so $4,000.00  to fix it plus permits because the main need to be moved from under the Trailer).

I would like to put in an on-demand water heater that uses propane from a tank. Usage would be for 2 people, 2 showers a day and washing dishes

Can I use the small propane tanks like for a barbecue? I have one old tank about 2 times the size of the usual barbecue tank — I think 40lbs. I think barbecue tanks are 20 LB. I am a little rusty at home repairs but I have to do this one myself due to my funds being low. I am in Phoenix, Arizona so no worries about freezing lines. Can I run the flue through the roof where the old water heater ran through, or does it need to be made larger than 4"?


texts: I’m running a 50A circuit using 6/3 NMB from my interior panel to a hot tub. I’ve got the required GFCI protected disconnect within direct line of sight of the tub (about 15ft from the tub). I have 3/4” LFNMC that is planned to use once the wire penetrates to the exterior of the crawl space. My question is....is it acceptable to run this cable through the conduit if I remove the romex jacket? It would need to be in the conduit for about 8ft from the crawl space to the disconnect and then about 25ft or so to get to the connection inside the hot tub. Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: a cheap (and landlord friendly) way to stick a large plastic sheet on a wet wall?

texts:
I'm usually using removable adhesive putty to fix stuff on the wall (mainly plastic I'm writing on). But this time the sticks don't stick on the surface because of a condensation issue (rock issue).

I can't use pins (too hard and would damage the wall: thin layer of plaster on old rocks), I can't drill holes for that (I would need 10+ holes per plastic and the landlord...).

I need to find a cheap and removable solution that would stick on my wet wall.

Any idea?

ps: the question is not about drying a wet wall.


texts:
On a recent trip up into my attic, I found out that the air conditioner was blowing cold air into the attic. In several places at the AC unit, the foil tape had become unsealed. In the interest of not cooling another room, I plan on re-taping it, but I have the following concerns:

Does the tape failure indicate a possible failure/fault in the system that should be investigated?
Is there any surface preparation that I need to do to make sure the tape stays stuck long-term?


texts: How do I hook up a 800 T Allen Bradley Dule input pilot light on my Ingersoll Rand 220 single phase 7.5 hp compressor


texts: Is a leveled wood frame for a basement floor a good idea?

texts:
Just bought an old house. One half of the basement has a nice headroom. The floor is painted concrete, and is pretty uneven and ultimately slopes towards a floor drain.

I'd like a nice floor. Can I make a "frame" where I can lay perfectly level plywood on, so I can lay perfectly leveled laminate floors (or large tiles) on top?

What will happen to the concrete below? Will it condense, and if it does, should it matter because my floor is now "raised?"

Is it a practical idea, considering money and effort involved? Or are there better/easier options?

By the way, I live in Canada. We have Winter over here :)


texts: Can an electrical subpanel be directly mounted to a hvac supply plenum?

texts: Can an electrical sub panel be directly mounted to an HVAC supply plenum. I usually see and have installed the disconnect or sub panel to the actual equipment on a wall near by or used some sort of standoff such as u-channel and spring nuts to keep the panel off the supply ductwork.


texts: Fast flickering LED kitchen light fixture

texts: I have a LED kitchen light fixture which has been working great for around 18 months. There's no dimmer on it and it's controlled by a standard light switch. A couple of days ago it started flickering fast, so fast it was like a strobe light and hard to look at. So I ordered a new one which came today. When I wanted to make sure the power was off to the fixture when I replaced it the flickering was gone. What could the reason be? Is this an indication the fixture is bad, or just a freak incident that may not happen again? Nothing has changed in my kitchen and everything else electrical work as it should. I do not want to replace it if it's going to continue working. Maybe just keep the new one as backup in case the old one is on it's way out?


texts: Moss on siding, do I need to replace this siding before painting?

texts: This part of my house has a bit of moss, it looks like it has damaged the siding. I'd like to paint the front of the house, but I want to deal with the moss first. Will I need to replace the siding or can I just clear up the moss and paint over it?


texts: G to C trick not working for cooling. Honeywell RTH9080WF

texts:
My electric furnace has no c terminal. Furnace is heat & cool both. (Lennox Electric Fan coil Model CBS18-21-3P).

I installed Honeywell RTH9080WF.
I switched G to C on my thermostat and got the power.

Furnace has no C Terminal.
The connections on furnace is  "R"  "W"  "G"  "Y"

Further on my thermostat I chose "fan controlled by heat pump" and it worked. Heating worked for the whole season.

In summers I switched to cooling and found that compressor is coming up but fan is not.

Fan comes up with heating but does not work with compressor.
Kindly advice how to fix this problem.


texts: How to protect footvalve from sticking open by sediment?

texts:
Of late there is seepage of surface water into my open well. This is further aggravated by agglomeration of decaying leaves from a neem tree over the well itself. Its an old well - about 30ft across - beyond my resources to cover it; Besides leaves are not the only issue. As a consequence,  every few days I would lose prime on the pump. I suspect part of the seepage is ground movement on account of earthworks to construct a flyover, and other highrise buildings in the neighbourhood.

The pump itself is an open well self priming type which has served  almost faultlessly o er 2 decades. The outlet is bifurcated; my temporary solution has been to run the ground floor pipe back into the well parallel to the footvalve. This works for now because the ground floor does not need water much, and perhaps because the sediment in the well is not so dense.

If the density ever increases, how do I prevent the footvalve from sticking open?


texts: How do I change a single-pole switch to a timer with 4 wires?

texts: I a want to change out a pole switch to a timer switch. All makes sense except, there are only two wires on the pole switch and 4 on the new switch. So I only have the white and black and no ground available, but it's a metal box. And the switch also has a red wire. What do i do with the ground and the red?


texts: Thermostat needs to be set very high to work

texts:
Our home thermostat is behaving strangely.
Let say it shows that the current room temperature is 60F.
If we set it to 63F it will start the Fan (ventilation) but will not actually start the heating so it just blows (cold) air.
To make it warm the place, we need to set it way above current temperature, let's say in that scenario we need to set it to 70F. But when it approaches 70F it stops the heating but keeps the blower on. so it get's stock below it's target and never reaches it.
Same things happens when it goes down. If we set it to 60F but the room temperature is 65F as the room temperature goes down, when it get's to 60F it starts the blower but does not engage the heater part.
Question is: is this a thermostat problem or the problem is in the heating unit?  Any solution other than replacing the the thermostat?
The thermostat is branded as "White/rodgers" and the unit is one of those electric air conditioning units (that both can be used to warm or cool the house).


texts: Natural AC, Stream Powered heat exchange

texts:
I will keep this short and clear as I can.

My home has a creek that runs through it about 20' from the side of the house. It is shaded and quite cool even in the summer heat.  If I got say an automotive AC evaporator and plumbed lines to and from the creek, and just cycled cold water through the system and stuck a fan in front of it...

I understand of course that would be much less efficient than actual refrigerant, but colder is colder.
It would work wouldn't it? The fins would cool down, and air flowing over it should exchange heat into the water headed outside.


texts: Ceiling fan wiring blue/white/black vs. 3 black/3 white/red

texts:
I want to install a ceiling fan that has 3 wires - blue white and black, but the ceiling light has 3 black wires and 3 white wires and 1 red wire.

I'm confused because the 3 black wires are together and the 3 white wires are also together and the red wire is alone.


texts:
I'm trying to replace the second of two sink drains. The first went smoothly, but I'm stymied by the second, which is of course a completely different product.

I have the trap off and everything unscrewed, but I can't lift the assembly from the top because of that protruding flange where the drain lever attached.

Is there a junction I'm supposed to unscrew somewhere at the top? The brass nut that held the assembly against the bottom of the sink doesn't go any further down, so I can only lift the assembly about 1/2".


texts: What is the difference between GU10 and GU10+C?

texts: Is there a difference in the socket itself? I found that Amazon does not differentiate between the two. I searched online, but only got a lot of different answers, none of which seemed sufficiently solidly founded.


texts: Can I use free denim insulation that got wet outdoors?

texts:
I found some denim insulation on craigslist for free. It's really inviting to me as I'm on a tight budget and would really appreciate not having to buy my own insulation for near $500.

I asked the seller if there was any mold and he said no. Only got a little wet while stored outdoors.

It is about 400 sqft and I need 340 sqft. If some parts are dirty, I can still get a good amount of usable insulation out of it.

Is it safe for my health to use?
Is there any cleaning I should do prior to using it?
Is denim insulation washable?
Is it significantly less effective due to its age?

Here is a photo from the ad:


texts: Can I use my bathtub or shower during tiling project

texts: I would like to redo my shower tiling.  Demolition and then tiling may take longer than a day for me.  I only have one bathroom so I was wondering what milestones I should reach each day so I can still take a shower or use the bath tub?


texts: Need help changing from Trane thermostat to Honeywell T9

texts:
I currently have Trane thermostat (TH8320U1040) and trying to change it with Honeywell T9 thermostat.
On Trane I currently have following terminals connected:
Wire Color  -  Terminal Name
Orange      -  Y2
Black       -  W2
Red         -  R (R & RC jumped)
White       -  W1
Yellow      -  Y
Green       -  G
Blue        -  B
Honeywell-T9 has following terminals:
S S Y Y2 G C U U A O/B W2 E W K R Rc
I am confused about B and W1 in current Trane.
Should “B in Trane” connect to “C in T9”?
Should “W1 in Trane” connect to “ W in T9”?
Thanks for your help!
Vasan


texts: best method to shield exposed horizontal roof beams

texts:
I'm looking for a good way to shield the tops of exposed horizontal beams. These are 4x12's that extend about 18" (cantilever) out from the bargeboards (gable end fascia). The main problem is that the tops are level and it's a place for water and dirt to accumulate. I'm thinking of spraying on some tar, just on the horizontal portion, or more expensive, something like "Low Profile Copper Beam Caps".

Thanks for any ideas.


texts: Can I hang a mirror by anchoring into furring strips?

texts:
So I'm remodeling my half bath and I want to install this mirror.

Unfortunately, Moen's site doesn't tell me how heavy the mirror is so I weighed it using my weight scale (I know, not very scientific!), like the kind you see in hospitals.  The total weight of the mirror, still in the box, with all of the hardware is just shy of 10 lbs.

The problem is that the two points where the supports are screwed into the wall are not over studs.  I cannot put in another stud as there is a sewer exhaust on one side (directly behind the one touch point) and there are horizontal pieces of 2x3 up and down the other side for support.  As an aside, yes, my house was framed in 2x3s.  I guess that was standard in the 70s?

So, my first idea was just to throw up some furring strips (1x3s).  But I'm worried about the load.  The strips would span 3 studs (the left, middle, and right so to speak) and each is about 12" apart.  I'd put a few screws in to secure the strips to the 2x3s.  Do you think that is sufficient?


texts:
Have a 2004, Rheem, Model #: RAMC-048JBZ; R-22 refrigerant.
We live in Central Texas, very hot 5 months a year, we use the AC probably 7/8 months a year.
Have had annual maintenance performed since we bought the place in 2016.
Just had it serviced and technician advised us to consider replacing the whole unit because (after cleaning coils, checking refrigerant and capacitor):
- Compressor is overtaxed. At 65 deg. inside and 71 deg. outside, compressor is already pulling 12 amps. R.L.A. is 19.2. So this doesn't bode well for our upcoming 100 degree days.
-Disconnect fuse and housing mounted on outside was partially melted. This may explain, last year, a blade on the condenser fan partially broke and continued to spin inside the system until I heard it and shut it off. I then installed a new condenser fan last summer.
-Coils are clean; refrigerant remained charged over past year; capacitor is, apparently, good.

Is it time to replace this entire 16 year old unit? Or should I try to replace compressor myself? Compressor retails around $1300. Will be getting another opinion/estimate from another company.

Thanks yall.

UPDATED PHOTOS OF DISCONNECT BOX AND FUSE


texts: The county inspector dinged me on a couple of things for my bonus room renovation.  One of these things is wrapping the register boots (endpoints) in insulation.  I've seen registers with this insulation already installed, but he mentions that batted insulation is fine.  The reason for this is to supposedly reduce the condensation leaking outside the boot and onto the wooden frame, joist, and sheetrock.  Any idea what you folks do to accomplish this?  I have some old R-6 flex duct insulation and some foil tape and was planning to wrap the batt around the boot and tape it up with foil tape.


texts: What could cause a new pressure release valve to drip water?

texts: Installed a new pressure release valve on electric water heater because old valve was dripping water on floor.  New valve also dripping water.  Any ideas? Suggestions?  Water temp set at 110F, so it's not because of excess heat.  Water pressure regulator on incoming water main set at 50 lbs.  I'm out of ideas as to what could cause valve to seep water.


texts: I took a phone jack off the wall and snipped the cable.  I'm not getting any voltage between green and red, either AC or DC.  I don't want to just leave a wire in the wall that could become live.  How do I safely terminate this wire, preferably without tracing it all the way through the muddy crawlspace to its source?


texts: How do you solve a problem like a mystery switch?

texts: I have a couple of switches in my house that I can’t determine what they do. How do I figure out what they are connected to, or otherwise troubleshoot a mystery switch to try to get it to work again?


texts: I took the front panel off and the wires came undone from the door switch. I think i put them in the right way but im just not sure. Will it start if i mixed them up?


texts: What is this device connected to my HVAC unit?

texts: I have this device connected to my HVAC unit in my apartment. I only have it in two of my rooms. In one of the other rooms I do not have this unit and was able to install an ecobee seamlessly. However, in the two rooms with this device I see the other color wires stuffed in the wall, but only one red and one white wire is connected to the thermostat.


texts: How do you attach a wooden gate to fence with metal posts?

texts:
I'm building a wood fence with metal posts. I'm using those clips that let you attach 2x4s horizontally to the metal posts. And then the boards go on top of that.

My question is how do you attach a gate? The only thing I can think of is a strap hinge. Are there other products out there that allow you to put a wood gate on a wood fence with metal posts?


texts: How can I repair or replace this rusty leaking bathroom sink handle?

texts:
Here's what it looks like:

Should I replace the whole thing or just something inside the metal part?

How do I take it apart?

If I buy a whole new handle unit how do I know what size to buy?


texts: How to remove white substance from spray painted MDF?

texts:
There is a substance that has been left on some cabinets (which are spray painted MDF). The substance is white, and could be paint, or some kind of filler, caulk or putty.
What's the safest way to get this off without damaging the cabinet paintwork?
I have tried scraping it off very lightly with a knife but that doesn't work.


texts: How can I add a roof over the existing Deck?

texts:
I know how to build a cover, I just don't know how to attach it to the existing deck.

Something like this:


texts: Can I insulate between a brick chimney and drywall?

texts:
Can I insulate the space between a brick chimney and the drywall inside my home?

I am getting heat transfer from the brick to the drywall in the summer from the sun heating the brick. My thermostat is located on that wall and is causing the a/c to run constantly due to the false reading of the temperature of the wall. That wall is warm to the touch. Even setting the thermostat at 80°F the actual inside temperature is 74°F in the house. There is about a 2 inch gap in the attic between the chimney. I thought about pouring insulation in this space. I converted to gas logs which are hardly used due to the North Carolina climate. Even when used there is not much heating of the chimney. I considered moving the thermostat but would have to run the wiring down the outside of the wall and drill down through the floor to reach the furnace under the crawlspace. The chimney is inside the structure not on the side of the house.


texts: How can I hang a framed picture onto a wallpapered concrete wall without damaging the wall surface?

texts:
I have a framed picture about two feet by three feet in size that weighs about one pound (not a sheet of paper). I want to hang it onto a wall that is of full-blown hard concrete and covered with paper wallpaper (not vinyl - just paper).

The default way would be to drill the concrete and insert an anchor but that would damage the wall surface.

Is there a way to hang such picture onto such wall without damaging the wall?


texts: Should I descale my Saniflo macerator after neglecting to do so for many years?

texts:
I've been in my home for 16 years and have a Saniflo toilet / shower combo in my basement. I have never descaled it and have never had any issues. Am I rolling the dice by not doing it or would it be too risky to do it after such a long period of time.

We do not use the toilet often, and the shower even less, if that matters.


texts: How to repair a drain line broken flush with a slab

texts: Ok so I have two drain lines going down into my slab that are broken flush or darn close to being broken off flush with the slab. I bought a hammer drill and was going to break around the drain rougly 2 to 4 inches deep and then I was going to couple the pipe with these rubber couplings and fill in whatever I broke out with this hydrolic cement. Am I right by doing what I am doing or should I go a different route? Any advice is greatly appreciated and I say thanks in advance.


texts: Remove broken cartridge of a Moen shower faucet

texts:
I already watched some YouTube videos regarding how to remove a Moen cartridge, but  my issue is a little different.

As shown in the pictures, the cartridge itself was broken. Since it's not fully turned off before it's broken, water continues to flow - I had to turn off the main water valve of the house to stop it.

A few questions here, that I wonder if you can kindly help out:

I couldn't tell what model this Moen cartridge is, 1222, 1225 or something else?
Given that it's broken, will the regular cartridge remover be able to take out the cartridge? Like this one from Amazon?
Is it still possible to turn off the faucet? I guess it's hard, but I really don't want to keep the main water valve shut off all the time, and obviously it'll take days to find a solution & get a replacement.
What kind of cartridge can be used as a replacement? Again, this is related to first question. I know I need to look up the manual but couldn't find it in my house, sorry.


texts: Should siding be replaced or can it be repaired?

texts: we are considering purchasing a 32 year old home that has regular wood siding on much of the second story. It has been patched in places but from the eye looks nice. It was painted most recently 8 - 10 years ago. During our engineers inspection he found some rot and they are willing to patch again but we feel like it should all be replaced. How long should siding last on a home? (generally) We would consider Hardy Plank but would also consider good quality wood as well. We can't get a price quote on either as we don't own the home but would consider a monetary compensation from the seller so we could do the work after we closed on the house. If the patch job is done, can we assume that we'd be good to go for a while or should we really insist that some sort of new siding be put up there...........


texts: Best way to avoid pipe freeze in exterior wall?

texts: We have an exterior wall framed with 2x6's. We are running PEX piping to a pot filler faucet through this wall to go above the stove top. Is there any precaution we should be taking besides standard install? We live in KS so winters can get cold, but not horrible.


texts: Is it normal/OK for LED lights to “crackle” when turned off?

texts:
I have some can LED lights in my kitchen. When I turn them off after moderate to prolonged use, some of the lights make a “crackle” noise, like the sound ice cubes make after being placed into warm water. It’s is not always the same light making the noise - there are 5 lights on the switch and they seem to take turns making the noise. They also sometimes make this noise when first turned on, but that is much less common.
The lights are around 5 years old, and only started exhibiting this behavior around 6-8 months ago. The fixtures themselves are older - they were there when I bought the house.
Is this “normal”, or at least OK? I’ve never heard this type of sound on other LEDs, so I am concerned.  If there is a problem, is it just a matter of replacing lights, or is this indicative of deeper issues?


texts: Bathroom Remodel Drain/Vent Configuration

texts:
All, thank you in advance for the help.

I am remodeling a bathroom and fall under IPC 2018 and was hoping that folks could look over the design below and let me know if this was code compliant and if follows good practice. Basically I was wondering if the proposed layout worked as a wet vent system or if I needed to open the wall and run new individual vents. Any suggestions are welcome.

photos at links below

Current Configuration - https://drive.google.com/open?id=18laXLjQdX7CR97IxsfdHEKBLSG1uoDaW

Proposed Configuration - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1oLorrhJ4ObA_jmICtfHLMOnkeN7k6Qa3

As is photo - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SCymslJ1p0Cx1zQNjvSOqe7A5Wa7zjMW