texts: How do I get rid of this ceiling finish and what is its name?

texts:
I am looking for an easy method.
Common sense tells me that something like sanding must be used.
Any special tool that can accelerate the process ?

The structure the roof is shown below. I might need to remove a wall and add a supporting beam. The wall that I am removing is not a load bearing one. The only reason why it is there is because the joist would have been to long I guess to make them from one piece of wood (or more expensive). I suspect there is nothing else between the roof and the drywall of my ceiling other than the loose insulation that the previous owner installed in the attic. If removing the drywall is easier I might consider cathedral ceiling with or without exposing the joists. Ih ave to see what it takes for that. However for now I would like to know if it would be easier to remove the drywall and replace it with a new one

Update:Hmmm I just found this page
http://www.float.ltd.uk/blog/2011/05/steaming-off-artex/
The guy is steaming the Artex, and the webpage says it is better than having plaster wasted and spread everywhere...can't understand what he means with that

Update: Extensive answer found here http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/artex.htm


texts: Should I bother to flip basement ceiling insulation that's on backwards?

texts: the rolled faced insulation on the ceiling of my unfinshed  unheated basement is on backwards(vapor barrier facing down instead of up towards the 1st floor),1st floor is uncovered hardwood. Insulation must be at least 25 years old and my basement gets very humid may-aug.( I run a dehumidifier) Is there any good reason for me to flip it over or even remove it altogether? I count twelve rows that are each 16 inches wide by 36 feet long.


texts: I have a ceiling fan with a light kit. Black, white, blue and green are on the fan and black, white and copper from the house. Pretty easy, but where does the blue go to?


texts: What is some advantage and disadvantage to had 9-in W x 9-in L Stainless Steel Square Chimney Cap

texts:
What is some advantage and disadvantage to had 9-in W x 9-in L Square Chimney Cap welding on top of the 18 in W X 18 in L Square Chimney Cap with a circular opening on the top side and then install to the top of the Chimney? I asked this because it seems to me the gas doesn't vent out too well.

Both square Chimney Cap is similar to the below picture.


texts: Roofer or framer that installs a Velux Sun Tunnel?

texts:
Who normally installs a Velux Sun tunnel in a new construction of a house?  Roofer or Framer?  Half the project is done on the roof and the other half in the house?
Thx.
(yes, I know there are special Velux installers, but that isn't what I'd like to know).


texts:
I have an 10 year old LG refrigerator (model LRFD25850ST). The white polyethylene waterline running from the refrigerator water pump up the back of the refrigerator is leaking about half-way up. It feeds both the ice maker and in-door water dispenser, but it runs through the foam insulation first, so a complete replacement is not practical at this time.

I would like to see if I can repair or splice it.

That writing on the tube reads:

  DMT PE TUBE 0.D5/16"XI.DO.216" 70F 170P= NSF-51 & NSF-61 04EH10 05-1

What is the best way to repair this waterline?


texts:
I am looking to get the most bang for my buck when attempting to limit the noise coming in to our bedroom from the neighbours house. The cost of re-plastering the wall is out of the question.

I have searched around the internet and found that perhaps the large majority of the noise will be coming through the window we have facing the neighbours house in the room. This seems to be where we will get the most noise reduction for the cost of implementing it.  It is approx 1m x 1.5m in size.

Would the best solution to this problem be to get this window double glazed? There are a number of technologies for noise reduction and windows, what are some experiences others have had?


texts: Did the cove molding that I'm removing support the drywall panels behind it?

texts: just looking for a little reassurance really - decorating the hallway in a house we have recently moved in to, The plaster coving has been done very poorly - very uneven, very visible joins etc. I was in 2 minds whether to remove and replace but knew if I didn't it would annoy me. The coving is plaster, I will replace with the polystyrene coving. As i started removing the coving there is quite a large gap between the sheet plaster on the wall and the sheet plaster on the ceiling - like an inch or so. I kind of expected the two to meet. There's no danger that the coving was helping support the roof sheets and by removing the coving I risk the roof sheets dropping?


texts: How do I handle the grounded neutral for a simple switch?

texts:
I trying to move a switch, which is currently in a 2-gang box.  The 2-gang box will need to stay in place (and covered with a plate) as it is also the junction of some other stuff (currently power comes into the box, and feeds the switched light, and 2 branches of outlets).  With new codes, I need to have a grounded neutral in the relocated switch.  My plan is to do the following:

Note, I have excluded all the other stuff that is in the existing 2-gang box.  My question is- what do I do with the neutral in the 1-gang switch box?  My existing toggle switches do not have a connection for a neutral (they are not "smart" switches).  Do I just cap the neutral line in the single-gang box?  Are there new toggle switches that accept a neutral?


texts: how to remove gypsum board cemented to brick wall?

texts:
Renovating a semi-detached house. On the shared wall, the builder mortared gypsum board to the cinder-block (first and second floor, each 8' tall x 30' long).

Tools I have considered:

Belt sanders and air-hammers seem like they would be exceptionally
slow.
Grinders might be marginally faster, but might damage the
cinder block.
A demolition hammer might be faster per minute, can an
average dude hold one up long enough?

Is there a better (faster / less tedious) approach I haven't thought of?


texts: Best type of fan for sucking air through a small hole?

texts:
I'm trying to cool a little server farm in my rented apartment that consumes around 5kW of electricity. The insulation of the building is crap and there is no central heating so during the winter it kept the apartment at a pretty nice 18C.

Now that summer is coming though, things are heating up. All I have for ventilation is a few 20cm diameter holes that go straight outside, none of the windows open.

I've tried a few fans already, one was a bathroom fan that exactly fits the hole, it turned out to be rather noisy and doesn't really move a lot of air.

Another is a generic floor fan, the blades have a ~40cm diameter, I put a cardboard shroud around it to enclose around the hole as best as I could. That slowed down the fan quite significantly due to increased resistance but it still moves way more air than the bathroom fan and makes way less noise.

Now I've been looking at centrifugal fans online, apparently they should be better at dealing with high flow resistance but are also reported to have higher energy consumption and noise.

Do you guys think I would get better efficiency in regards to air flow/power consumption with a centrifugal fan or an even bigger axial fan?


texts: Grout spacing for large format wall tiles

texts: I have selected large format Porcelanosa wall tiles (33.3 cm x 100 cm) for a bathroom. From the brochures I have seen, these tiles tend to be mounted with a very minimal, almost invisible grout spacing. Our builder has started to mound these using a more regular 3mm spacing, which I am worried will look odd. He said that trying to mount with a 1mm or 2mm spacing will result in the spacers compressing and making an even finish very difficult. Is this true, or is there some special technique needed for large format tiles with a small grout gap?


texts: Can I run #14 armored cable behind baseboards?

texts:
Residential basement remodel problem:
Replacing old, ungrounded wiring.   Problem is cinder block walls.   Inside, the exterior walls have rigid insulation and one layer of 1 x 3 furring strips covered by drywall.   Interior walls have simply drywall directly on cider block.
Aesthetically, I want to 'hide' all wires.   There is no room for wires in the walls.   We don't want surface raceway or conduit.
Can either armored or plain wires be run behind baseboards?
What if the baseboard is backed by 1/16" metal plating?
Also can armored cable be routed thru ceiling joists?
Or any other ideas and solutions welcome.
What will meet NEC?   Thanks!


texts: Wire brackets blocking circuit brakers from tripping

texts:
I set my oven to self clean. When it was complete it would not light up. I checked the breaker and found a wire bracket blocking the trip. This type of bracket was also on my other bigger appliance breakers....except my AC. . I am wondering if the bracket should have been removed when the breaker panel was operational. The panel was installed 18 months ago.

The bracket is show in the photo. It does not link the switches it acts as a block.


texts: Can this joist support be replaced with plywood?

texts:
The attic above my garage has several of these horizontal support beams across the ceiling joists, I assume to keep them from bowing. I’d like to put down plywood across the whole floor without these because they’re a tripping hazard.

Are these supporting pieces necessary? Can they be replaced by plywood and still keep the joists from bowing?

Just to clarify, I’m not referring to the beams holding up the roof, just the non-load-bearing ones.


texts: Is it possible to relocate my water heater?

texts:
I'm planning a complete refit of my bathroom, hopefully converting to a wet room, and I just wanted to get some idea of my options.

The bathroom is (sadly) very small, around 1.7m x 2.3m. This is not helped by the fact the hot water tank with immersion heater takes up one corner of the room. (0.7m square)

I'm also assuming the fact I wouldn't be able to damp proof the cupboard (and hence would have a second perimeter door) would make it more tricky to convert to a wet room.

I'm fairly sure the boiler in the kitchen is not a combi boiler at present.

What are my options, how difficult to achieve, preferable for decent hot water supply?

Can I move the hot water tank into the loft?
Can I move the hot water tank into the garage? (Kitchen wall partially shared)
Can I remove the hot water tank if I go over to combi? (or have I misunderstood what I need to change over to hot water "on demand"?)
Something else?

I'd love to get the space back into the bathroom, and I really would like to go wet room with walk in if at all possible.

UK based if it makes any difference for the building regs etc.


texts:
In the condo (2 story semi-detached townhouse built in 2004) I rent, the main bathroom has an interesting vent system.

When turned on, 2 fans are activated.  One is a booster of some type and increases the air flow from the floor HVAC register.  The second one acts as exhaust, pulling air out through a similar register mounted up on the wall.  This second register is connected to a rectangular sheet metal duct that goes straight down from the register and appears to actually be an air return.

Is this sort of arrangement actually allowed by code (specifically, NBC Canada 1995 would have been current when the place was built.)?  What are the potential problems (mold?) with such an arrangement beyond code compliance?


texts: What type of dirt do I need to fix holes in my driveway

texts: I apologize for this being a very basic question.  I have several holes and low spots in my dirt driveway (see picture below).  I want to fix it in the upcoming spring but I do not know what i would use or where I would go to get it?


texts: Why CAT 5 cable is run through electrical box with blank faceplate

texts:
The two cables seen here have very little slack.
The house was built in 1998 in Texas in case it offers any clues.
Any idea why this is here?


texts: Fixture Pan for 3/8 drywall - do they exist?

texts:
I am installing a sconce pancake box in a bedroom. The plan was to put the sconce over a stud with one of these.

All lined up and 4" hole cut, and then I realized I am working with 3/8 drywall (the pan box is 5/8).

I was curious if anyone has seen a fixture pan with a depth of 3/8" before; do they exist?

I am pretty sure that I could technically allow non-metallic boxes to stick out 1/4" on non-fire rated walls, but that's ugly; the spot I cut out is perfect so if it's possible to salvage, that would be optimal.

Thanks!


texts:
Here's a slick Canadian subpanel with a "generator interlock".   It is a normal 2-pole panel, just like common USA panels, and it's Square D QO, which is common as dirt in the USA.  However for the generator interlock, it uses 3-pole breakers (this series of panel is also made in a 3-phase version, so the 3-pole breakers are also common).  The third pole switches neutral.

We often have applications here in the US where someone needs a generator interlock/transfer switch, and there are loads of things like this on the US market, but they are only 2-pole (no neutral).  That won't cut it, because they are coming off an inlet from a portable generator, and most portable generators have neutral-ground bonds, which means neutral must be switched. (the consumer can't be counted on to install and remove the N-G bond every time he uses the generator).

This thing is both CSA and UL listed (CSA is a US Nationally Recognized Testing Lab) and actually made in the USA.  So could I just pop across the Friendship Bridge, buy one in Home Depot.CA, and use it in Virginia?  Or is that statutorially disallowed, and if so, by which Code cite?


texts: What to use to fill holes in floor tile in kitchen

texts:
We just did a final walkthrough for a house we should close on in a few days.  The kitchen has tile flooring.  There are some holes in several of the tiles.  The holes aren't too deep, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.  Luckily no cracks in the tile from whatever created the hole.  I was wondering what can we use to fill in the holes.

The things I googled all appear to be for bathroom/shower tiles (can post a link if needed) and not kitchen floor tiles.  I don't want to buy the wrong thing because I mis-interpreted what I'm reading/seeing.  Thanks.

EDIT: Here's a couple photos.


texts: Porcelain vs ceramic tile for the whole house

texts: I am in the process of installing new floor in my house.  I have been told by a friend that porcelain tile is a lot harder and more durable than ceramic tile and therefore better.  Another friend told me just the opposite, porcelain chips and breaks more easily than regular ceramic tile.  Also, I have been told to keep an eye on quality, but how do I know if a ceramic or porcelain tile is of good quality.  Everyone keeps on recommending a specific store, they are also one of the most expensive ones and I can not believe they are the only ones that are selling a quality product.  When buying the floor, what questions should I be asking the sales person to find out?


texts: Why would you ever choose open-cell spray foam?

texts:
I've been researching spray foam for the attic in my Maryland house built in 1901.  Currently it's a vented attic, and we've decided to spray foam the bottom of the roof deck, turning the attic into un-vented conditioned space.  The insulation company is pushing us to do open cell spray foam because it "costs less" than closed cell.  But I don't think that makes sense.

All of my research tells me that closed cell has double the R value of open cell, and also costs about twice as much per cubic inch.

So if it has double the R value, I only need half as much of it to accomplish the same results, right?  And at that point, if it costs twice as much, but I'm only buying half as much, then the cost is a wash, right?

Benefits of closed cell:

Closed cell also works as a vapor barrier, which open cell does not, meaning closed cell is more likely to prevent mold growth and rot.
Closed cell is also stronger, and adds rigidity and strength to the structure, which open cell does not.
Finally, closed cell takes up half as much space, which means it's less likely to be in the way if we decide do vaulted ceilings in the future.

So if you only ever need half the amount of Closed Cell, why would anyone choose open cell, even if it "costs more"?


texts: How to power a well water pump on the local electric grid

texts:
I have a well water pump which I have been operating on a 10KW generator at 220V. Lately, the generator has been having problems so I need to power the pump on my local electrical grid while the generator is fixed. However, the electricity fluctuates between 140-200V, so I got a transformer to keep it at 220V, which is working well for my house.

However, when I connected my pump, the volt dropped and fluctuated between 100-110V (I read it on the pump dashboard), and no water came up. Does anybody have an idea on fixing this? Note that the pump uses 13 Amps of electricity, and I have no other options available.

Edit: Adding pictures for further explanation

Also, my device is not just a simple transformer. It also acts as a voltage regulator.

This is my transformer. It's produced by a local Syrian company and from what I've been told it's one of the best ones there are:

This white cable comes out of the transformer to this, where it is connected to the main power of my house and back. It also has a line leading to the water pump

(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7863/GqFenB.jpg)

The big white cable in the center goes to the pump, and in the bottom right corner there is a black cable out of which a blue and red cable are exiting, this is the main power to the house:

My pump dashboard:

Also, if helpful, the generator which has been operating my pump. It's diesel powered and produces 10 Kilowatts:

My pump is the submersible type, and is approximately 200 meters underground in the well


texts: Outlets and lighting on covered patio - 240V to 120V

texts:
I have installed a covered patio and would like to add lights and a couple of outlets.
The current set up is a breaker out there that was set up for a potential AC hookup; it is fed by a 10gauge wire with black and white both having a load of 120V from the main breaker box, which has a 30Amp Double breaker.
My plan is to get rid of the breaker, and use the 10 gauge wire as a regular 10/2 to feed all my electrical needs out there. On the main breaker I would switch out the 30 Amp double breaker for a regular 20 Amp single breaker.
Outside, I would then continue with 12/2 wire that feeds a GFCI outlet, then another GFCI outlet, then a couple of switches. One would go to a regular outlet to feed string lights (or i could just hard-wire the lights) and the other would feed a chandelier.
Main questions:
1; is it ok to go from 10/2 to 12/2 to feed everything?
2; can I install a regular (not a AFCI) breaker for everything since I will use GFCI outlets?
3; can I go from a GFCI outlet to lights without problems?


texts: We had a plumber out to replace our outside hose bibs.  After turning the water back on, one of our faucets in the house now has a drip.  Its nowhere close to the area that the plumber worked on.  Any reason why it would now drip?  Could it be from the initial pressure of turning the water back on?


texts: Can I check the wattage / amps of a pair of light fixtures using a multimeter

texts:
I need to test the wattage / amps of two light fixtures on a single circuit. I'm having issues with a smart dimmer and I'm trying to figure out if the amps / wattage exceeds the limits of the dimmer.
I have a southwire 100031s multimeter. Is it possible to test the wattage / amperage using this multimeter?


texts: Can we use an under mount sink as a drop in?

texts: We got a great deal on a sink, but then found out it is an undermount model.  Our current one is a drop-in.  We would not be able to add the support needed for an under mount.  Has anyone installed an under mount sink as a drop in?  It is a Kohler (K-5805-2) cast iron, and it's obvious we will have to do something with the larger pre-drilled holes (2 3/8").  Hope you have some advice for us.


texts: Replacement key for an old sewing machine?

texts:
I'm having an old sewing machine with a simple lock, for which I can't find the key.

What's the best way to:

Find a good replacement key for it
If it's not possible, pick the lock so that it'll be always open, with no damage to the actual lock.
break the lock open, with minimal damage to the wooden case of the sewing maching.

The key looked like one of these,

unfortunately I don't remember like which.


texts: How can I resurface a masonry pool deck?

texts: The Kool Deck around our pool in Arizona is faded & chipped in a few small places, and since we painted the house, it is really the wrong color.  Is there a way to re-color the Kool Deck surface that still would maintain the "cool" property of the surface?  (Dunn-Edwards said their paint would result in loss of the cooling property & be hotter to walk on.)


texts: How far should a CAT5 cable be from a power cable?

texts: In a few days, we will be having a small tower set up so that we can have internet connection in our rural home. We need to trench a cat-5 cable from the tower to our house but we also want to, in the same trench, run a power line out there so we are able to go farther with electrical items such as weed-eaters. What I wish to know is, how far down should the power cable be from the cat-5 as to not interfere with data signals? Both cables will be in separate conduits.


texts: Moving Kitchen sink to opposite side of room

texts: The 1-1/2” drain from the sink currently runs through the back of the cabinet and down into an interior wall to the basement. The new location will be an outside wall. There is currently no visible drain vent in place. What would be the proper way to vent the line in its new location?


texts: How do I install a wood stove as an auxiliary heat source?

texts:
I have a house with a forced air electric furnace.

We've also got a wood-burning stove adjacent to the furnace.  I didn't have it installed, and I want to understand if it's been done properly, and how to use it properly.  The house is on a big plot of land and there's plenty of hardwood available for use in the stove.

Right now the hot air duct out of the wood stove is connected to the return air duct that leads IN to the electric furnace.
Q1: Does this sound right?

Q2: is it possible for me to use the wall thermostat in the house to effectively control the heat?  how?  How would I wire it?

The problem is, there's no on/off switch for a wood stove.  If I stoke the fire, it will stay on and hot for hours.  Assuming the blower in the wood stove blows while it is hot (I have a separate question on that), and the warmed air is going directly into the electric furnace, will the electric furnace now detect that there is warm air in its plenum, and turn on its blower?

In that case, should I expect the fan in the electric furnace to run more or less for the entire time the wood inside the stove is burning?

What's the appropriate way to modulate the heat, in this case?  open a window?


texts: What should go between a wood plank sub floor and a hardwood strip floor

texts:
I am about to install a hardwood floor into a room in my 1905 farmhouse.  The subfloor is 8-12" wide 1" thick planks.  The floor I am installing is 2-1/4" prefinished solid hickory tongue and groove.

Reading books and web how-tos on this a few have mentioned that there should be a layer of "Construction Paper" between the subfloor and the floor strips.  The accompanying pictures show stuff that is brown, paperlike and comes in 3' or 4' rolls.  I have never seen the like for sale in my local home improvement stores.

What is this "Construction paper"? and is it really necessary?


texts: How does a Thermal Release Device (TRD) work?

texts:
Rheem hot water heaters have a device in the combustion chamber called Thermal Release Device (TRD). It contains a vial filled with liquid that seems to be mounted in a flex metal plate. It is a safety device that is supposed to trip when the temperature inside the combustion chamber goes above safe limit. This could happen due to "Flammable vapor incidence" or for variety of other reasons. There is not much information about this online.
This device tripped off for the gas water heater and the first plumber did not even know anything about it. He thought that it was thermocouple gone bad. Another plumber also thought the same but with GE support he could at least figure out and he knew about it. However, he could not explain how this device worked. I also could not find much online especially exactly how it trips off the burner when it just seem to sit on the base of the heater inside the combustion chamber.
EDIT
American Water Heater technical bulletin - they call is Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant (FVIR)
EDIT
Got some pictures of the device

and instructions


texts:
Having moved house, we find one particular radiator doesn't heat up, despite the pipes that lead to it getting hot. One of the valves must be stuck, and I've worked out which one by feeling the pipes either side.

But how to unstick it? I've whacked the end with a hammer, and repeatedly twisted it round and round as far as it will go each way (it does rotate a little) but not had any luck.

EDIT

Finally, I replaced all the valves. Looking at the old valve, it appeared to work fine, which puzzled me. Switching the boiler back on puzzled me even more - the radiator was as lukewarm as before!

Finally we realised all the hot water was flowing through the radiator immediately upstairs of the problem one - there must be some aspect of the pipework which means the water just can't be bothered to flow vertically downwards and back up for 7ft as well. If you turn the upstairs radiator valve right off, then the downstairs radiator will get almost as hot as the others. Almost.

Other downstairs radiators in the house have the same pipework coming down from the ceiling, and they get very hot. What could be different about the problem radiator?


texts:
We're building a house that has poured-in-place concrete walls. I like the look of concrete, and we were planning on leaving some areas naked, both inside and outside the house, with some added stain in some places.
But I just saw the walls for the first time (a couple of weeks after the forms were removed), and they have some very dark ugly blotches on them. Here's a picture, showing a purple stained area (below) and a naked area (above).

I was expecting some color variation, but not this. The dark areas are almost black, or even a dark green color in some places.
Questions:
(1) Are these dark areas likely to fade as the concrete dries?
(2) If they don't, is there some way to treat them (short of using an opaque paint or covering/coating of some sort)
One ray of hope ... I saw a wall immediately after the forms were removed, and it was almost entirely black, but it was lighter when we came back the following day.


texts: Voltage still present after breaker is off

texts:
My home built in 2016 has a pre-wired car charger line in the garage, I am trying to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet there.
Before I started, first thing I did was turning off the breaker to the car charger, then I used a non-contact voltage tester, which buzzed on both red and black wires, but not white or ground. I did some research and people were saying that those voltage testers are not very reliable and can  pick up phantom voltages. So I bought a multimeter, and it showed 120-125V when I measured between red/black and ground.
What does this mean? Did the builder screw up the breaker connection, or is there something else?
My plan next is to have my utility company turn off the main circuit, wear class 0 gloves and install the outlet, then turn the power back on. Any problems with the plan?
Thanks in advance!


texts: What can happen if someone doesn't get a building permit for a renovation?

texts:
What are the possible repercussions if someone doesn't get a building permit when doing a renovation? I have heard many people I know say they never got a building permit to get "x" done and they have never had any issues.

NOTE: I'm not talking about a new building construction but rather getting work done on an existing residential building. Wisconsin would be the state to use as a location reference.


texts: run electrical conduit underneath hardwood floor?

texts:
I am in the process of putting down hardwood floor.

As a first step, I am reinforcing the subfloor by screwing and glueing 1/2 plywood on top. Then, I'll add a felt/vapor guard layer, and then a 3/8in click floating hardwood floor on top.

I am looking at options on how to lay electricity to get to a kitchen island (to be installed).

The basement below is finished, and it wouldn't be easy to drill holes into the joists. This is also awfully close to the support beam and heating ducts.

Since I have not yet laid the subfloor reinforcement, I wonder whether I could:

Leave a gap and cover it with a steel plate after laying the conduit
Add a steel channel
Anything that I didn't think of

If this would help in any way: The electrical will be approximately at the entry to the kitchen - I could add t-molding to separate the two floors.

I want to be legal, too (US/Maryland).

Any help greatly appreciated!


texts: How can I repair a chewed-through power cable?

texts:
My puppy chewed the power plug off of my space heater, and I'd rather not buy a whole new space heater if I don't have to.  I went to the hardware store and found a plug rated for 125V and 15A.  The space heater cord is labeled for 300V, but the device says 120V and 1500W.  Will the plug be safe for the space heater?  Based on the wattage, it should only draw around 12.5A, but I don't know if it needs a certain amount of buffer in case it spikes high or anything like that.

Also: I have to chop off the chewed parts of the cord, and it was already a short cord begin with.  Is it possible to add in more cord so it's the same length as before?


texts: Should my security cameras be raised up under the soffit for weather protection?

texts:
I installed 2 outdoor security cameras. But now that I've look at them, I wonder if I should move them under up higher to where the roof meets the wall in order to shield them from the elements.

I've attached pictures. Thanks for the help.


texts: Replace fluorescent lights with LED lights

texts: Can I replace fluorescent lights (30W, 36" long - F30T12 H998) with LED lights?


texts: Do modern energy saving light bulbs class as "fluorescent lighting"?

texts:
I am about to replace an ageing smoke alarm. The current one is battery powered, but I was thinking that it might be good to replace it with a mains powered one (no need to change battery, cannot be easily disconnected to stop it sounding, etc...).

In the instructions for many of the mains powered alarms I have seen, it says that they can be connected to a lighting electrical circuit, but only if the circuit does not have any fluorescent lighting attached to it. All of the bulbs in my house are energy saving, of two differing types:

Do these energy saving bulbs class as fluorescent lighting, or are the instructions referring to only the more traditional long fluorescent strip lights?


texts: Can salt be used to create a slip resistance surface in concrete?

texts: Is it true that salt can be used to put a slip resistant surface in fresh concrete?


texts:
I seem to have a leak in the wall. I don't think it's plumbing related because it just seems to appear during rainy days. Is there anything I can do before more damage occurs?  Unfortunately it's going to be a rainy week here and these are crazy times given COVID-19 status.  Many thanks in advance.

EDIT: More details: leak is on an East-facing 1st FL wall. No visible signs of leak on 2nd or 3rd floors. Asked neighbor, he denied any leaks.  Wall is shared with another house (row-home style, adjacent house on east wall and west wall).  Roof inspection two months ago didn't reveal any issues (purchased house a month ago).  Roof pictures below, it looks like the leak location coincides with the neighbor's chimeny.


texts: multi light 1 switch each, and one switch for the all light

texts:
in my garden i have 6 lights each one have a switch, last week i connect all the lights to one switch so all the 6 lights will turn on with one switch, but some time i don't need all the 6 lights on, and other time i want them all on. so, is there a way to have a switch for each light and a master switch for all the light.
(for example:if tow light on, and than i click on the master switch all the other 4 lights will turn on and if i click on it again all the 6 will turn off)
(another example:if all the light on and i turn off 3 of them then use the master switch the other 3 will turn off)
is that possible?


texts: Is it normal to use a grinder to finish a new driveway?

texts:
Yesterday we had new concrete pads poured.  We expected pour-day to be the last day.  I saw them out there finishing, but when we went out that evening after everyone had left, it looked half done.  There were unfinished areas, dips in the concrete, and piles of stuff:

I texted the concrete guys and asked if they were coming back after dinner or what was going on.  They texted back that it's normal for it to look like that and that they were coming back today with a grinder to finish it out.
I've never heard of using a grinder as a finishing step (though I've only been a part of a few driveway pours).  Is this normal?  Will there be any long-term consequences (to stability or performance or appearance) of using a grinder at the end like this instead of just finishing it when wet?  Or is this a red flag that things are about to go very badly and I need another contractor to come in and tell me the correct next steps?
I worry that the guys weren't prepared and just ran out of working-time.
Edit
To follow up and let everyone know what happened, I confronted them about the work.  They admitted that the did not have sufficient experience, and ran out of time before the concrete set.  They ground it down and said they would be back in next week to 'resurface' it, and grind down the resurface so it looks like finished concrete.  They also told me that as long as the original concrete had not cured, the resurfacing should fully bond and provide adequate strength.
Edit 2
Because I often wonder what happened when reading old questions.
The resurfacing product manufacturer told me their product would only last 5-7 years.  I talked to another, experienced, concrete contractor who recommend a complete repour, and I hired them to do so.
The repour came out absolutely beautiful (photos below; please ignore the skull, it was Halloween), though they could not get all of the concrete splatter left by the original contractor off the old driveway.  I've filed a lawsuit against the original contractor who has since stopped communicating with me.


texts: If carpet has been dry for years is moisture level OK on slab?

texts:
Should I be concerned about moisture with installing an Engineered Wood flooring over a concrete slab (on-grade)? We have been living in the house for 10+ years with carpet flooring and I don’t recall the carpet ever being moist (except for spills of course). However the room does feel a bit humid on a rainy Summer day. Should I be concerned about moisture affecting my installation?

This is the product I am considering installing: SolidPlus® engineered Flooring by Somerset Floors


texts: Is there any nice way of identifying which model of Peerless Bathroom Faucet I have?

texts:
I have a 2 handle bathroom faucet which says Peerless on the underside.  It came with the house when I bought it and I don't have the packaging or manual for it.  I am trying to identify the correct stem unit assembly for it to stop a small drip and I know how you have to get the right part for the right faucet or it will not fit.  I tried the website for Peerless and the 3 candidates I came up with for replacement part are (although none look like the replacement part):

RP70201 - Got a pack, doesn't fit
RP71444 - Doesn't match the look of the old part, but it is a replacement for many models.  Could try that next
RP41701 - Doesn't match the look of the old part, but readily available

So is there anywhere/any way I can tell for sure.  I could post a picture of  my faucet if helpful.  I could even uninstall my old cartridge and post a picture of that if it helps.


texts: Smart outlet or timer to auto shut-off after 30 seconds of use

texts:
Is there a smart outlet or some special kind of timer that can detect when current starts flowing and turn off after about 30 seconds?

This is intended for a custom hot water circulation system.  I want the pump on a flow switch to turn on for 1 minute or less when flow starts at the water heater's cold water inlet, then turn off and remain off for 30 minutes before becoming available again (regardless of flow switch position).  I thought that cutting power would be the best way to stop the pump after 30-60 seconds because it is no longer needed.

The closest I've seen is this 30-minute auto-shut-off outlet.

Edit: I've decided to use a Laing pump that incorporates temperature shut-off connected through a timer light switch.  The Laing pump costs more, but I imagine that it will pay for itself in energy savings in this configuration.


texts: I had one breaker running kitchen and garage. I used skill saw and it blew breaker. I bought 2 new 20 amp breakers and separated lines. the garage on right side and kitchen on left. everything on right showed voltage but left side of panel had none. so I switched all to right . curious why this is and should I be concerned?


texts: What is this part of the heating system, and how can I stop it from leaking?

texts:
I bought a quite old house, and I found on the attic a thing that's part of the central heating, and it's leaking water. Not a lot, but enough to soak through to the floor below.

Pictures:
  .

I can't figure out what the thing does, as the water just runs from sideways to downstairs.

Is this something I can fix myself, or should I get a plumber?


texts:
I bought an in-wall PIR switch (http://amzn.to/293hYyJ) and I'm trying to install it. The switch has 4 wires: red, black, white and green

In my wall, I had 2 black wires and a green one that were connected to the original switch. There was also a white wire (2 actually) that were simply capped. So I connected it similar to this and now, the switch works if I put it in the on position, but not the motion detection part. How can I find out what the issue is?


texts:
I have a garbage disposal with two leaks (see image below). The major leak is the left-most object, but it doesn't appear to be a screw like the other location.

Should I replace the entire unit or is this something that I can easily fix by taking apart the garbage disposal? Or, would plumbers putty or something over the object solve the problem?

Thanks in advance for any help!


texts: why are all the lights in the house dim then when the range is turned on they get brighter?

texts: I have already checked connections in the panel and they are good. Everything in the panel box has correct voltage. The amp draw is very low also.


texts: CO detector starts beeping every morning at 6am

texts:
My 2-years old CO detector (small, wall-mounted device with battery, no other power source) started beeping every morning for at least few minutes, sending sharp chirps once every 10 sec. It starts around 6am.

I don't see any visible fire or cooking in my apartment or outside. I've read that it might mean end of battery/detector life, temperature change, or poltergeist. Are these the most common reasons?

I will replace battery to check for some of it.

UPDATE: Changed battery, chirping went away


texts:
I am trying to unhook a gas stove flex line. The joint B turns fine so I can unthread it. However the joint A seems to be seized and won’t turn. As a result, I cannot remove the hose as the hose cools on itself. What am I doing wrong? Is there a way to loosen this joint so that the connection turns freely at the flex line and doesn’t twist when I turn the nut? Thanks.
EDIT: To aid others who had trouble removing this, added photo to show how this was finally undone, with help of this amazing group. Thanks @AlaskaMan. Basically the connection was between two chrome hex parts and it was just too tight. I was afraid to break it but the answers here gave me confidence to just go with it. Make sure you have a couple of good pipe wrenches.


texts: Can I add four 20Amp circuits in a subpanel with a 10-3 feeder?

texts:
My garage has two 20 Amp circuits and an unused 10-3 w/ground connected to two 30 amp breakers.

I want to use those unused wires for a subpanel but i'm not sure how big of a panel could I install? I would like to add four 20 amp circuits.
Will I also need a grounding rod?


texts: Will rubber pavers hold up against Wisconsin winters?

texts:
I'm planning on redoing all of my walkways as well as a small patio in the back yard.  I'm trying to decide between concrete with exposed aggregate or rubber pavers.  The whole market for rubber pavers seems a bit nebulous to me.  I haven't been able to find much advice for which brands hold up the best or reports from anybody about wear & tear after much time after the installation.  I would like to know what to expect for durability from a non-biased and experienced installer or owner.  I'm especially interested in hearing about how they endure winter conditions, including the possibility of saturation with ice as well as being shoveled and salted.

Update:
The reason I'm interested in rubber is to minimize injuries from children wiping out because this walkway will be curving across the middle of a somewhat smaller (urban) back yard to reach the house back door to the garage back door.


texts: What is the purpose of framing a recessed medicine cabinet?

texts:
I'm looking to install a medicine cabinet.  It's an inconvenient wall.  It's not load bearing, but it has two studs with power plus a third stud in the middle that we expect to need to cut through to position the cabinet where we want.

All of the tutorials I see include framing the cabinet with 2x3 or some similar material.  However, I cannot seem to find any site explaining why this is done.  It makes sense that it would be done to support the structural integrity of the wall, but I see such framing being done even when no studs are cut to install the cabinet.  This seems odd to me, and makes me wonder what the real purpose of this framing is.

What is the purpose of installing all this framing inside the wall?  I'd  like to know so that whatever framing I do actually achieves the intended goal.


texts: Ideas for Door Opening that is 1 foot above adjoining room

texts:
I am renovating and add-on room at my house.  The room is a converted outdoor patio which has concrete slab for flooring.  In order to add a bathroom (toilet & drop-in shower combo), the decision was made to build the bathroom ABOVE the concrete which made it easier because no concrete had to be disturbed.

The trade off is that the bathroom and its opening now sits 1 foot ABOVE the room floor.  For privacy reasons, as well as ventilation -- I now want to ensure that the opening can be CLOSED, which means some type of door.  Problem is the 1 foot "step" up someone has to take to get into the bathroom currently.

I see 3 options:

Regular door.  Issue here is that the extra 12 inches put the door frame  height well above 80' inches.
Regular door w/ step.  I could frame a regular door if I start at the stop of the step (1 ft up), but what to do with the steep step into the bathroom?  Do I build a small set of steps (or a single step) up to 1 ft?  Also -- since the bathroom is small, the door can't really swing INSIDE the bathroom, and it needs to swing OUT, which would make the door swing over the steps.  Not sure what to do there.
Pocket door or Barn door.  Some type of sliding door might be called for, but I would have to demo part of the wall for the pocket and I would have to figure out a creative solution for the step up if I went with either option.

Appreciate some ideas here!


texts: Which sander and sandpaper should I use on floor after using wood filler?

texts:
I've sanded my 100-year-old floor with a drum sander, and troweled wood filler over the entire surface.  Now I'm ready to sand again before staining.  How aggressive of a sander (drum, random orbital) and sand paper/screen should I use for this step?

Thanks!


texts: When sistering a joist or rafter, must the ends of the sister be supported?

texts:
When sistering a floor joist, must the sister be full length to the original joist and must the ends of the sister be supported on a sill or beam for the sister to be truly effective?  Assume the sister is attached to the original joist with adhesive and proper sized fasteners at an appropriate schedule.  Is the same true for a rafter?
Is the answer different depending on the problem being corrected?

Fixing a cracked or rotted joist
Reducing deflection in the floor (e.g. for a tile installation or just less bounce)
Strengthening the structure in anticipation of a greater load in the future
Correcting sag

I see two schools of thought:

Use a full length sister and support the ends.  3-4 inches at either end must rest on something.  Otherwise it does nothing but add weight.
Sistering over the middle 2/3 of the span (or 3 feet on either side of a break) adds the strength needed and the ends of the original joist will have no problem taking the negligible additional weight of the sister.

Seems you can't go wrong with duplicating the original joist when it's possible but are there cases where one is more appropriate than the other?


texts:
The door to the bathroom in my house was accidentally locked and I can't figure out how to unlock it from the outside.

The knob has 3 holes on the outside:

The hole in which on a normal doorknob you would insert a key, screwdriver, etc. and turn to unlock. On this particular knob in the hole, there is a silver, metal, cone-shaped plate that can be pushed in (but not rotated - there is no kind of groove to place a key in and turn). When you push it in, it goes about an inch in and you can feel a spring pushing back but it doesn't seem to change anything.
A small circular hole on the cylindrical portion of the knob that connects to the door. It isn't on the base that actually touches the door, but on the cylinder connecting the spherical knob and the base. You can see the metal turning through it as you turn the knob, but there isn't a full hole to the inside of the knob.
A rectangular hole on the same portion as the small circular hole in #2. It looks like there is some kind of metal tab that should be able to be moved, but applying force in any direction has not had any results.

I've tried every combination of push, pull, twist, push in hole #1, #2 and #3 I can think of with no luck. Does anyone know what kind of knob I'm talking about and how to unlock it?

Here are pictures of the knob: http://imgur.com/a/io4F4


texts: Light Fixtures will not work, even though I have power

texts:
I have two pendant light fixtures in my kitchen hooked to 3-way switches. One bulb burned out and while replacing that bulb the other blew out. I've replaced both bulbs, but get nothing. I removed the fixtures from the ceiling and tested the wires and switches with a voltmeter. All good. There is power going to the ceiling boxes and the white & black wires coming from the ceiling. I bought two temporary fixtures to further test it. I have successfully tested those fixtures with the volt meter as well as the bulbs... everything. No fixtures work even though I still have power.
Somehow, once any fixture is hooked to power, it kills it. Nothing happens. What am I missing?


texts: Sink valve replacements, concerning draining water

texts: Two fold question. Background: water to sink and shower shut off for two months prior to shutting main to replace cold water valve. I drained all faucets except the shower. When I removed the valve, drained 6 gallons without diminishing. So I put the new valve on screwed to the old nut/ferrel. Hardware store guy was mystified. Could it just be there was extra water in the system due to not draining the shower nearby?? (I didn't because the grout wasn't sealed.) Now facing replacing the hot water valve and am more worried about the situation getting out of control, having to deal with hot water instead etc. So I have been trying to educate myself on how the repair relates to the cold water supply (to the heater) and turning the heater to pilot. That is aside from the draining question. The new grout is cracked and needs to be replaced so I don't think I can freely drain the shower yet. I can try draining the shower into the bucket and all other sinks but the one I am working on. So bewildering for a novice.


texts:
I learned the hard way not to plank on floating laminate floor when the board my feet were on slid toward the wall.

I fixed it initially by just applying force in the other direction, but now it keeps on slipping out and I keep on slipping it back. It doesn't take much to move it anymore.

Can I fix it with wood glue or something stronger? It slides a good half an inch so there's plenty of space to gunk stuff in there. Otherwise, it is pretty close to the edge of the trim so I could pull that back and try wedging something in to stop it from moving.


texts:
I'm considering the option of using OSB(10mm+ thick) in stead of laminated flooring, the floor is currently just concrete, on top of which there's linoleum on top of which there's a carpet.

What I'm envisioning:

concrete
insulation(5mm+ thick) -- as used under laminated flooring
OSB
carpet on top

Reasons:

OSB cheaper than same thickness laminated flooring
super-fast to install(one sheet of OSB is 2500mm X 1250mm)
easy, cheap & fast to replace about 3 sqm of a damaged sheet
unless there's subfloor heating, the floor would be cold anyways, so at minimum a carpet is a must

My question is:

what are the pros and cons to my thoughts(most likely others considered this option...)?

Note: I'm not looking for the so called "best option/solution", I'm interested more in the cons of using OSB as opposed to laminated flooring.


texts: Can I install hardwood floors (not floating) on a concrete floor?

texts:
We have recently bought an old house, and the ground floor has a hard floor and is currently covered in tongue and groove laminate - which we hate.

We'd like to put reclaimed floorboards down - is this possible on a solid floor!? If so how would be go about this? If we get the boards cut to size is it something I could attempt - or is a strictly pro job?  I'm guessing the latter and that its probably going to be well over our budget (£600 for 2 rooms) - but if anyone can provide any advice we'd be very grateful.


texts: Upgrading to GFCI, and the outlet box isn’t screwed into anything

texts:
I’m attempting to upgrade an old two prong outlet to GFCI, and all was going well until one of the outlet boxes turned out to not be secured to a stud or anything. As best as I can tell, it looks like they screwed everything into place, shoved it into the hole in the ball, and then slapped a bunch of plaster over the tabs of the outlet and the box to hold it in place.
So I scraped the plaster off the screws holding the outlet in place to remove it, removed the old two-pronged outlet, hooked up the wires onto the GFCI outlet, and then attempted to shove the outlet back in the box. However, when I did that, the remaining plaster holding it in place broke free, and now it’s just floating free and held in place by nothing. There’s no stud on either side of the box to screw into. What’s my best option here to secure this old box?


texts: Is it really such a terrible idea to have original pine floorboards in a bathroom?

texts: we have just pulled up some awful old carpet in our bathroom and found that, underneath a layer of particle board, there are lovely old (original?) pitch pine floorboards in lovely condition - I'm so tempted to sand and varnish them instead of laying new flooring (I know tiles would be better etc but our house is a 200 year old cottage so a distressed/vintage floorboard look is what we are really keen on). However I'm aware of the potential issues with solid wood flooring in bathrooms. The alternative is to lay new engineered wood over the top instead, but it seems a shame. The question is, is it really such a terrible idea to have original pine floorboards in a bathroom providing they are varnished heavily (yacht varnish or similar)? With care around spills and splashes - could this be made to work?


texts: What is this gap above the fascia trim called and does it pose any ice-dam risk

texts: There's an insect-screened gap of about one inch visible above the fascia trim, if you peek behind the gutters. The roof has no overhanging eaves. Is there a specific name given to this gap?


texts: Converting 8/3 220VAC oven recptacle to 120V recptacle

texts:
Good day!
We’re replacing an electric oven/range to a gas oven/range

And

Adding a 600CFM range hood.

The old range is leaving an ungrounded 8/3 NM for me to work with.

Now, lazy me wants to replace the 220V 40A two-pole breaker with a single pole 120V 40A breaker and convert the 3 blade receptacle to a 20A outlet and use the red wire as a ground.

Besides trying to get 8AWG stranded wire to attach pleasantly to a receptacle, how badly mannered would this setup be?


texts: Removed old vanity and installed new vanity and there is limited space to install new P-trap

texts:
As noted, I have installed the new vanity, and the space between the new sink drain and the wall is very limited (4.5 inches to center of the new sink drain). I thought I could just go on the other side of the wall and cut off what I needed to allow enough space...but the other side of the wall is a 90 degree bend. Now I have to come up with a totally different solution to still provide the trap. Looking for options.
I thought maybe I could install a t-junction and cap off one end so I would at least have a straight connection on the other side of the wall, providing me the precious additional room I need for the trap.


texts: What is 'Cellular Core' or "Foam core ABS' pipe?

texts: At a big home store today, all the black drain pipe was 'cellular core ABS' in 'schedule 40'.  What does the 'cellular' mean? The pipe was very inexpensive.


texts:
I am finishing my basement. The previous owner had ran a MWBC to the area that will be the bathroom. In the panel it is two 1-pole 20amp breakers. My questions are:

First to confirm, it seems I should split/fork the MWBC into two circuits. One for the lights and exhaust fan, and the other for receptacles. On the receptacles circuit the first outlet should be GFCI. Correct?

I am very unclear on if the two 1-pole breakers is considered safe or even to code. Should I be replacing the breakers with one that is combined, simply add a handle tie, or just leave it as is?

Relating to the last question, my understanding is its best to have two separate circuits in a bathroom. This way if the receptacle circuit blows when using a hair dryer, the lights also do not go out. For example, by using a handle tie don't I loose this -- won't both circuits go out? Should I instead split the MWBC and use one circuit for the bathroom receptacles, and the other for lights in the other part of the basement? (This way if the breaker trips you aren't left in the dark in the bathroom.)
Thanks!


texts:
I am trying to clean the gutters of my house. Is there any special ladder that I need to use to do that? Do I also need some other tools? Any reference link or pictures will be highly appreciated. I don't want to hire gutter cleaners as it looks pretty simple job (but still that could be my misunderstanding.)

I also found this question here but it is about how to clean gutters while staying on the ground. I don't have such requirement.


texts: low water pressure in house caused by hot water tank coming off main before cold?

texts:
We bought our house a couple of years ago and it is old and was previously divided into 4 apartments. It had two water tanks installed and we had one of them removed and we also had a plumber do a couple of other small things. I'm sure our pressure was very good when we moved in and now it's terrible. It appears to be all copper plumbing throughout. I'm wondering if whatever the plumber did has screwed things up.

I see that the main water line comes in and goes directly to the remaining hot water heater before it cuts off to service the rest of the house with cold. I'm thinking this is the problem and that it should cut off for the cold water before it goes to the hot water tank. Would this cause the low pressure problem? I'd be interested to know why if that is the case. We'll be calling in a plumber to fix things but I want to know what's going on.
Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: Unlocking original casement window for house built in 1938

texts:
I have the key to unlock this window but I cannot figure out how to get it to open.
I believe you need to not turn the key but I cannot remember.


texts: How to frame an exterior wall against a concrete wall (Replacing garage door with person door)?

texts:
I'm replacing my daylight basement garage door with a person door which means framing inside a concrete opening.
I know to use a pressure treated sill plate and sill gasket on the floor. But what about against the walls? PT and gasket again?


texts: Are USB sockets on wall outlets live all the time, even when the switch is off?

texts: I got a USB wall socket fitted. When it was installed, I tested the USB port with a tester with the switches off, but the USB outlet was live. Is this normal?


texts: I know the correct option is to hang a single drywall board horizontally over the doorway, and then cut out the door. But just how terrible would it be to hang horizontal boards on either side, and then a single thin piece over the top? The sides would be small butt joints. Would it really be the end of the world as some forums are making it sound?


texts: I have a tenant on the 1st floor who controls the thermostat. It's constantly on 80 and the 2nd floor is dying from the heat. Can I install a 2nd thermostat in the basement and limit the heat output?


texts: How do I connect a C-wire on a Triangle Tube Prestige Solo 110?

texts:
I purchased a Honeywell RTH6580WF to use with my recently installed Triangle Tube Prestige Solo 110 propane boiler. I only have two wires at my existing heat-only thermostat. I understand that the c-wire is common. There is no terminal labeled "C" in the boiler, but all the grounds are to the chassis/terminal block backplane.

The existing connections at the thermostat are W, RH and a jumper between RH and RC. I contacted Honeywell customer service, and they said "call a contractor." Can I power the RTH6580WF by simply connecting the C in the new thermostat to household common, or do I need to run it back to the chassis or somewhere else of the boiler, or...? If I HAVE to add a separate transformer, where do I connect the + and - from the transformer to the thermostat?


texts: Possibilities for shielding porch deck from rain

texts:
My porch is farmhouse style (low to ground, no railing), and fairly narrow. The (metal) roof is exactly as deep as the deck. One annoyance that I have is that when it rains, the water coming off the roof's drip edge often is driven back towards the porch and splashes on the edge of the deck.
I'm planning on replacing the deck boards soon, and was considering leaving the new boards an inch or two shorter to help minimize the splashing. However, since the porch is fairly narrow as it is, it's not my favorite idea. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for solving my problem. One thought I had was using some sort of extended drip edge or flashing to extend the actual drip line away from the house... but what type of flashing should this be? Would it have to just be custom bent from a piece of flat flashing?
Two notes:

I live in the land of heavy snows, so this needs to be a solution that can accommodate deep snow sliding off the roof (so either very rigid, or very flexible)

there are several inches of fascia underneath the drip edge (~6" of or so)

I would like to avoid gutters if at all possible - I have no drainage issues otherwise.

I'm interested in keeping the current porch deck design as is.


texts: Unplugged computer sparked upon touching a cold heating pipe

texts:
First time here, so be kind with me, if this not the right forum to post.

I have (maybe) experienced an electrostatic discharge (ESD) from a computer case some days before, and I'd like to hear your opinions on this accident.

A computer case at my work, was not plugged in the mains outlet and it has been approximately 5 minutes, that it has been unplugged and switched off. Only thing plugged in, was the 2 monitors through their VGA cables and I think there were both switched off but unplugged. The computer was a 7+ years brand name machine, with a 300 W, 100 - 240 V, 50 - 60 Hz PSU.

Upon lifting the computer case with both hands to place it beside the desk, accidentally it made contact with the cold heating pipe passing nearby on the wall. Suddenly some yellow sparks with sound occurred (similar to arc welding sparks effect). The same time, the circuit breaker turned off the power at another room of the building.

According to my knowledge, I did not felt something strange as being electrocuted or anything at all after this happened. The computer afterwards was only started if the power cable was unplugged and plugged in again, and the tech said there is no damage except form a mis-plaiced starting button cord.

My questions are:
-What exactly happened there? Is it possible that have being exposed to any electricity risk for my health with afterwards effects?
-Why does the circuit breaker turned off?

Thank you all for your time reading this, and looking forward for any opinion.


texts: How to make use of Existing Window to install a Curtain

texts:
I've moved to a new apartment(in USA) where in my bedroom I have a window(obviously with horizontal blinds). It is in a place where people from outside can see through the blinds. So I wanted to install a curtain to protect my privacy.

Is it possible to install the curtain to the blind holder? If yes, any product sources/information is much appreciated. If not, do I need to start from scratch: measuring/fixing rod/attach curtain?

Any information would be really helpful.


texts:
I have hot water baseboard heating, with three zones. I would like to drain one of them in order to complete some renovations which requires moving some baseboard out of the way.
I'm not sure what the sequence here should be... what should be turned off, and on in what order. I know which valve corresponds with which zone; in the pictures, it's the middle one with the yellow handles. And, I believe the white handle valve is the boiler return.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Some pics here for reference https://imgur.com/a/5cnEVhQ


texts: Is it possible that the kids are somehow misusing the shower faucet causing the cartridge to fail?

texts: About 2 months ago I replaced the single handled shower faucet cartridge. The faucet is leaking again. Is it possible that my kids are doing something when they shower that is damaging the cartridge? Does not turning off the shower at the tub faucet before turning off the water cause damage to the cartridge? The handle pulls out to turn on the water.  It turn left for hot and right for cold. If they were to slap the handle closed, would that damage the cartridge? we don't have hard water and When I replaced the cartridge, there wasn't any gunk in there. The cartridge was pre-lubricated.


texts: How do I locate the ceiling joists in my kitchen addition?

texts:
My kitchen is an extension. I want to put ceiling hooks up there so I can hang pans from the ceiling.

I need to know where the rafters are so I'm not just putting hooks into the plaster. There is no access to the loft space.


texts: Is it safe to run a Kinect 360 cable in drywall?

texts: Does anyone know if it's safe / compliant to run a Kinect 360 cable in drywall?  No extension, just the original cable, running a vertical 5-8 ft segment.


texts: Is a peltier-based dehumidifier a good choice to prevent condensation?

texts:
I have a non-heated, enclosed space (crawl space that does have a vapor barrier).  During a limited number of days in the spring or fall, I get condensation on things that stay cold while the air warms up.  I have tried leaving the vents open and closing the vents, and that doesn't completely solve the problem since air motion is not guaranteed.  I'm not interested in self-closing vents.  Thus I am considering a dehumidifier.

My purpose for the dehumidifier is to reduce humidity from near 100% down to non-condensing on slightly colder objects, so maybe 85%.  In other words, I don't need to make it "comfortable", just prevent condensation.  The temperatures where condensation has been experienced range from maybe 40 degrees F to 60 degrees F (5C to 15C).

I'm sure that I could use a standard, compressor-based dehumidifier and achieve the results I want, but those are more expensive to buy and more expensive to operate than the peltier-based dehumidifiers.  But I've read that:

  the optimal operating temperature (for peltier dehumidifiers) is 59-86°F. It will not work below 41°F

So my use case is below optimal range, but still in range for some level of effectiveness.

My question is: does anyone have direct experience or professional expertise to advise on using one of these "cheap" dehumidifiers in this way (not the typical use, which is to make a room "comfortable", but rather just take the humidity down away from the range that condensation occurs)?


texts: How can I run a cable past a horizontal block between studs in my wall?

texts: I am in the middle of hiding my flatscreen cables within my bedroom wall to hide. I'm done drilling the holes and I am trying to fish the cable through, but there is a horizontal block of somesort that is preventing my efforts. What is this and what is my recourse?


texts: Are grout lines or gaps required for expansion with ceramic tile?

texts: Why do I need grout line for expansion ? I have them in the field but on the side wall around a floor vent there is almost no room and the vent will virtually cover the joints.


texts: How do I get bats in the house to leave?

texts: Do they tend to stay on the top floor?  Do they prefer warmer or cooler air? Also, do they always avoid lights? (will they prefer to go into a room with no lighting, as opposed to one with lighting)?


texts:
I would like control access to a "corridor" as shown here:

Photo shows front side of corridor, back side is similar.  The corridor is slightly over 2 cars wide.  This is a commercial building and customer vehicles must occasionally traverse the corridor to gain access to second building on the other side of the corridor.  The gating mechanism should be as effective as a garage door / fence to keep out cars / people / dogs.

I must decide on a gating mechanism:

Garage-door type gate
Fence style
Other??

The goal is to eventually automate and keep out unauthorized vehicles / people from traversing.  To constrain the problem, I can not consider a guard, or expensive ($3K or more) ideas.

Questions

Can a custom garage door be sized to fit the corridor?
Would the garage door be more reliable \ simpler to maintain than a sliding fence?
Have I missed any other cost-effective \ practical \ modern gating mechanism possibilities?

Any experience gained from lessons-learned / pitfalls to avoid are appreciated


texts: Gas line to appliance seized cannot disconnect

texts: I have a gas line to a gas range I'm trying to take off. The nuts are very tight. In the photo there are 2 nuts. It looks like the upper one is attached to the gas hose (the flexible hose). Using a very long wrench I'm able to loosen the top nut. But, strangely the hose also spins with the top nut. I expected the top nut to spin freely from the hose. So, loosing the top puts a kink into the gas hose. I'm afraid that the kink will push pressure on the hose and cause a gas leak. What should I do keep spinning the nut with a wrench without destroying the gas hose?


texts: I strive to not waste materials wherever possible, and "use once then discard" methods are particularily irksome. So with this mind, what suggestions do you have for enabling re-use of lumber used for concrete forms?


texts: Can I put acoustical putty *inside* the electrical box rather than around the outside?

texts:
For soundproofing applications, they make acoustical putty that you put around the electrical box.  However, what if you can't get behind the electrical box?  In my case, I have a wall floating on hat channels about 3" from the studs.  The electrical box I will be using is an old work box with a clamp that allows the box to be fastened to the drywall rather than studs.  This means that I will not be able to get to the backside of the box to apply the putty.  I though about putting it around the outside of the box before sliding it through, but that doesn't seem like it would be very stable.

This leads me to me idea of putting the putty on the inside.  I uploaded pics of a mock application.  The outlet fits well and I think there would be plenty of room for the wires.  I know next to nothing about electrical, though, and I worry about not accounting for things that might not play well with the putty.

Does anyone advise against this?  I hope not because it's really the only way I can do this.

Update:

Here's what I ended up doing.  At first, I had a hard time understanding Evil Greebo's diagram, but I think this was the general idea he was conveying.

First, I cut out the smaller hole for my outlet.  Then I cut out the entire section 2" around the outlet hole.

I installed some support boards on either side of the opening.

I used an old work box with adjustable flanges and installed it into the cut-out.

I then covered it with my acoustic putty (QuietPutty) and left an opening for the wires.  Looks like some kind of alien organ, doesn't it?

I ran the wires into it and then packed the putty tightly around the wires for good measure.  A flathead screwdriver worked great for packing and manipulating the putty.

Finally, I placed the section into the wall and screwed it into the support boards.  My pic only shows two screws, but I actually screwed in all for corners.

If anyone else can think of a better way to do this, let me know because I am about to do it again, but this time with 5 outlets, one of which is a two ganger.


texts: Power Comes into Light fixture from Panel, connected to switch how to wire always on outlet in

texts: In my workshop I want to wire in some outlets. The power comes into the room into a light then is branched to other lights and a switch in the room to control said lights. I know how to hook up the outlet if I want to make it switched. How would I go about wiring it up unswitched? Would I tap off the hot in the light fixture?


texts: Can I have a handrail on only one side of the stairs?

texts:
Is it legal to have a handrail on only one side of the stairs if it's not continuous? (As shown in the picture below)

Or should I remove that small handrail and put a long one all the way down on the opposite side?


texts: Have bath tubs ever been considered "self-venting" in plumbing code?

texts:
Years ago, someone told me that a bath tub with an overflow pipe was considered "self-venting".  In other words, you didn't need an additional vent pipe because the overflow pipe served the same purpose.  I've looked around online, and this certainly isn't acceptable practice now.

There is a question here about converting from a bath tub to a shower.  I mentioned (in a comment) that there might be venting issues, but I don't know if it's actually true.

Is this a valid concern? Or have plumbing codes (in the USA) always required venting of bath tub drain lines?


texts: Usage of 125V 20A receptacle for 240V 1A circuit

texts: I need to instal a receptacle in my 240VAC, 3 phase machine for a 12V, 1A adapter. Adapter is good for 120-240VAC input. I happen to have a 125V, 20A duplex receptacle on hand. Is it okay to use it because of low current or is there an insulation or gap requirement for 240V that 125V will not meet. Thanks.


texts: Mounting something to stud-less plaster exterior wall

texts: I have a wood cabinet that I am redoing (painting and changing door hardware and removed interior shelving) to use as a TV enclosure in my family room. The house was built in 1940 and has plaster walls. My plan was to mount the cabinet into the wall stud and then mount the TV (20 lbs) to the back of the cabinet which is 1/2 inch VC plywood. However I cannot find a stud in this small section of wall. I’ve read that sometimes small wall sections against a masonry exterior might not have a stud. I’m using a magnetic studfinder (studpop) and I can’t find any stud.  What’s an alternative way to do this?


texts: How to deal with a 1-1/4" trap on a pedestal sink

texts:
I have an older pedestal sink that was installed with a 1-1/4" P-trap (or maybe it is part of the sink?). Another plumber saw the wall fitting (not the fixture) was 1-1/4" and said that such a fitting was not to code and could cause a slow draining sink. When I told him it was a pedestal sink, he said that was probably the reason.
Do pedestal sinks have smaller diameter drains or something? Can I change it out to 2" pipe, or is that not possible with a pedestal sink?


texts: Do I need to pre-drill holes in particle board for screws?

texts:
I'm set to buy a bunch of IKEA furniture, which is notoriously all particle board. (Ah, particle board.) I'd like to strengthen some of the beams of the HOPEN bed with L-brackets from the big-box hardware store of choice.

My question is this: since adding the L-brackets will mean screws, do I need to pre-drill holes into the wood to avoid splitting the particle board? Is there a way to prep these holes without a hand-held power drill? Can I drill the L-brackets in without pre-drilling at all but with great care?


texts:
Why does my gas wall heater turn on and off intermittently when the switch is off?
It's NOT the fan turning on and off
Its the flames coming on then quickly going out!   Why? and thank you!


texts: GFCI wiring same as before, but no power

texts:
I've watched a handful of videos on installing a GFCI outlet and it seems like a nearly identical process to installing a normal outlet, which I have done a handful of times before without issue. I wire it up in the way I believe is correct (identical to the way the broken outlet was wired):

Using a voltage detector I can see that there's power at the terminals, and that the ground is connected, but there is no power to the actual outlet. What am I doing wrong?


texts:
I am replacing an light fixture and box. The box is not actually a box, it's a round thing with 4 round tubular portals. The electricians have treated this thing as a junction box so it has a lot of wires I want to decipher the purpose of. There are two lines of Greenfield going into the box and two lines of Romex going into it. In the diagram below I have labeled the Greenfield lines A and B, and the Romex lines X and Y.

My plan is to add a junction box and have the connections in the box. Then add a second box for the light to which only two wires will go (doh).

Should I keep this same wiring scheme or change it?


texts: How do I connect an air compressor to blow out my sprinkler lines?

texts:
I want to blow out my sprinkler lines before the freezing weather gets here (I am in NJ).  I have an air compressor that I can borrow but how do I attach the air compressor line to the sprinkler system to blow it out?

Here is the water line coming out of my house, into the pressure vacuum breaker, and then into the ground where the valve box is located.  In previous years I have had someone come out to do it and I know they attach to that spigot in the picture but I am not sure how.  What type of adapter do I need to get?


texts:
I have a dishwasher and garbage disposal plugged into a 2-outlet wall receptacle under the sink.  The GD is set up to a switch on the counter.  Checking the fuse box, these both appear to be 20A.  Kitchen was remodeled about 10 years ago.

I'm planning to install an Insinkerator Instant Hot water dispenser which draws 6.5A.  With the DW drawing ~12A, seems like a simple issue to get an outlet adapter to allow for plugging in both the DW and instant hot.  Max draw would be 18.5A.  However, I can only find outlet adapters rated to 15A.

Question:  Is it okay to have the DW (~12A) and IH (6.5A) plugged into an adapter rated 15A into an outlet rated 20A?  Do I need to unplug the instant hot every time I run the dishwasher?

Thanks in advance for your input.


texts: Is it possible to build a one-cubic-meter soundproof space? what is the minimal size of a soundproof space I could build?

texts:
I am wondering if it is possible to build a one-cubic-meter soundproof space or other similar size of soundproof space.

Why would I need this? I am planning soundproof my house, although I am new to soundproof. So, if I can build a group of test spaces with different solutions, I can get a comparison result to decide which one is suitable to. the smaller the size of test space, the less cost I spend.

So, what is the minimal size of a soundproof space I could build?

Note: both inside and outside of the test space is full of the normal air as the daily environment we live in.


texts: Power requirements for hot tub (reading from label)

texts:
I am looking to purchase this hot tub from Craigslist and was trying to make sure I had enough power to feed it.

The label on it is really confusing. From my reading, it looks like it breaks down the amp requirements in terms of voltage and frequency. But the strangest thing is that the amps are lower for 120v than for 240v. There is also a breakdown of 3 wire vs 4 wire 240v installation (I assume to feed 120v components.) It's really strange. Have a look for yourself. The only thing I can come up with is that it states the power  draw for each mode and that I  will need 50a to run at full? I'm located in the US. Thanks


texts: What is this style of cupboard door called?

texts:
Trying to identify (and locate a replacement) for this style of kitchen cupboard door. I see them often, especially in rentals, here in Canada. I assume they are cheap, does this style, where a wooden lip spans the width of the door, have a name?

Are they a style from a specific manufacturer?


texts:
About 2 years ago, I replaced all incandescent bulbs in my house with CFLs. One light in particular worked fine for a while but later began behaving strangely. Over the past year or so, the light would show normal intensity for the first couple of minutes and then suddenly step down to a lower intensity, where it would remain. Since the light was still bright enough, I ignored it. Last night, I noticed that the light no longer works. When I turn the wall switch on, the light will sometimes go on for about 15-30 seconds, but then the light goes off and remains off. Other times, when I turn the wall switch on, the light does not go on at all.

Is this issue likely related to the CFL bulb, the bulb wattage, or the wiring? Or is there likely another, more serious problem? Should I go back to an incandescent bulb? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
It's possible that this question is too general to be asked here, but I'm pulling my hair out, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the subject.

I installed a Leviton Z-Wave switch in a 2-gang box, using a length of 14-gauge wire to connect into the three neutral wires in a wirenut in the box. The load wraps around the bottom red pole and daisy chains to the other switch. Seems weird, but that's how it was originally.

So I turn on the breaker, everything works fine. I'm a genius. Then, I turn the breaker off again, repack everything into the junction box, screw in the switch, and replace the switchplate.

Breaker on - light doesn't turn on anymore. All the other ones do, and I read current going through it with my voltmeter. So, I unpack everything, everything looks good, fiddle with some wires, turn it on again and nothing.

I put back the original switch and it works fine, so it's not the light. Is it possible I blew out the switch somehow? Is there something else I might be missing? I've replaced lots of switches, but this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.


texts: How to measure water pump pressure in a spa heating system?

texts:
Short version (TL;DR): how can I measure the output pressure of a water pump in a spa heating system and verify that it is within the gas heater input pressure specs?

The Whole Story

I'm trying to troubleshoot an outdoor spa heating system in my parent's home which is located in SW Brazil. Its simplified diagram is as follows:

(just replace the word pool by outdoor spa and remove the word filter and that's exactly what I have)

The heater is about 6m (20 feet) away (horizontally) and 1.5m (5 feet) above the pump.

The Pump

The pump picture and specs are the following:

Power: 220W
Input voltage: 220V AC
Frequency: 60Hz
Maximum temperature: 90ºC
Maximum pressure (suction/input): 60mWc (meters of water column) or 85psi
Maximum pressure (output): 12.5mWc or 17.8psi
Maximum flow: 58L/min
Connections: 1''
Weight: 5.0kg
Country of origin: Brazil

Product link: Texius TBHGF • 220W

The Gas Heater

The relevant gas heater specs and info are below:

Minimum water input pressure: 2.5mWc or 3.5psi

Product link (similar to mine, which is outdated): Orbis passage gas heater - model 315

Symptoms

The heating system was working properly until we noticed a significant decrease in the hot water flow coming into the spa and increase in its temperature. After a while, the heater would turn off even with the pump turned on. Now the heater won't even start (it won't even make the sparks that light up the gas). I did replace the 1.5V D alkaline battery, but no joy.

Questions

Assuming the problem is the reduced pump output pressure, how can I measure it to make sure it's really under the minimum heater input pressure?

I am looking for solutions involving any of the following:

a DIY apparatus to measure the pump output pressure
clever ways to make measurements and physics equations to calculate the pressure
off-the-shelf measurement tools and gadgets (the cheaper the better, for occasional one-off measurements like in my case)

Are there any other possible causes for this problem?

Research

Well, I did try to ask Google this same question, but could not make any sense of the results. Maybe I'm not asking the question properly, or I'm not using the right keywords.

PS. I have converted the pressure units to PSI using ConvertTop.com - pressure.


texts: I had hot glue holding something up on my wall as I had seen that it wouldn’t take off paint

texts:
I went to remove the object to clean it and it peeled off part of my paint
I have white dry wall showing now and I don’t know how to cover it or put the item back up because it is quite heavy and will fall of with tape or the clay like wall stick stuff and it has no holes in it.

So how should hang up the item or fix the paint.

I need help quick I have a party tomorrow at my home and I can’t have this there as it is in the main party of my house.


texts: Thermostat won't display temperature and won't control heater (although fan works)

texts:
I'm having issues with my Honeywell RTH7600D thermostat. It's a couple of years old and has worked fine until recently.

We're in Southern California and the cold weather has recently started so I went to check the thermostat. The display was blank and the batteries were dead, so I replaced them. This brought the thermostat "back to life", except for one thing: it does not display the current temperature anymore. The LCD display simply shows two dashes where the temperature should be. I can turn on the fan, and it starts blowing, but I cannot set the target temperature or turn on the heater.

We do not have an air conditioner, just a gas heater. I have cycled the power on the heater and on the thermostat (by disconnecting it and removing batteries), without success.

I have researched this issue online, but the only results I get from googling are pages that address a completely blank display on the thermostat (by replacing the batteries). This is not really the issue I'm having - I can work the controls and turn the fan on/off.

It looks to me like either a faulty thermostat, a failed (or failing) connection between the thermostat and the temperature sensor, or a furnace problem.

Can anyone suggest additional steps to troubleshoot this problem?


texts: Toilet on septic system won't flush after heavy rain

texts:
I have a home with 2 toilets on a septic system. It has been raining for 2 weeks or more. Neither toilet will flush. They just fill to the top of the bowl and take all day to drain. The first thing that happened before this problem was when in the shower the toilets had a lot of air bubble up and then the tube was draining slowly also.

Some people said to wait 2-3 days after the rain stops and the water that soaked into the septic would drain out and every thing would be ok.


texts:
I want to open a valve and tape it properly to prevent further leakage. But the valve is jammed and as I put more force to open the hexagonal nut (shown with red arrow) it is going to be deformed into a circular shape...
Any ideas on how to open this?


texts: Why am I having trouble starting my gas hedge trimmer?

texts:
I was running the trimmer I had just bought 2nd hand. I ran it great for about 10 minutes when it suddenly throttled high. I released the gas right away and it died and hasn't started again since despite much effort. Here's what I've done:

I verfied spark at the plug by pulling the plug while maintaining connection, holding the hex area to the cylinder wall, pulling the start and observing sparks at the business area of the plug
I verified gas getting to the cylinder by removing the spark plug and being able to sling liquid off it (I had just done multiple pulls with the throttle fully pulled)
I replaced the diaphram, metering valve, lever and spring (items 4,5,7,8,9,10,26, & 27 in breakdown below:

Here is the troubleshooting chart for the trimmer:

I assume that the "high tension cord end" is the connector at the spark plug. I'm not exactly sure how to test that. I pulled the plug cap and held it close while pulling the start, but observed no spark. Can someone confirm how to perform that particular check, or confirm that it is unnecessary because I found spark at the plug electrode?

Also, can anyone give me anymore guidance? Of the 100's of pulls I've done since the original incident, I never one time got a single fire from the engine despite every possible choke configuration and lean or heavy throttling.

By the way, while changing the parts I listed above, I thoroughly cleaned the carb.


texts: Stabilizing steel table legs for dining table

texts: I had two steel table legs fabricated for a dining table. It is made from flat steel of size 80mm x 8mm (3.15in x 0.3in).  It looks like a rounded square and the size of each leg is 700mm x 700mm (27.5in x 27.5in) . When I tried to attach a wooden table top, I noticed a bit of wobble. The wooden table top is around 1500mm x 800mm x 50mm  (59 x 31 x 2 in)and weighs around 30kg (66lbs). I was thinking of adding three cross supports to prevent this wobble. Would this be a way to do it? Or can someone perhaps suggest a better type of support for connecting both legs? Many thanks!


texts: How to remove dry erase marker from a refrigerator?

texts: Trying to remove dry-erase marker from a fridge. I've tried and failed with ammonia, wd40, olive oil, comet, vinegar, old hydrogen peroxide (could be broken down/too old), dish soap and water.


texts: Sediment in shower heads (please read details)

texts: I have had issues with my two shower heads in my master bath since buying my unit last November.  The shower has two shower heads.  We have soaked the heads, etc.  Most recently, I had a professional plumber come out and he ordered, flushed, and replaced the cartridges (inside the handles) and I bought new expensive shower heads.  I took my first awesome shower in almost a year.  My daughter then took one 3 hours later and one shower head did not work. When the head was removed, there was no issue with the water flow and a lot of white, gooey sediment in the trap screen.  Where does this come from?  The plumber now is having a water heater guy come out to look at our 2011 water heater and thinking maybe its the cold water dip thingy (at this point I didn't understand anything he said).  This is a big problem and don't know who or how it can be solved.  I really appreciate any help I can get.


texts: How can I access the water in my pipes during a supply outage?

texts:
I am trying to think about how many times I could flush a toilet in my house if I have to shut off the water to do a DIY project or if some disaster disrupts our water service.

Since atmospheric pressure can push water up to a height of 10 meters (33 feet) and my house is not that tall, it seems that the atmospheric pressure would push the water up and prevent me from using most of it.  I think typically the only water in the system I could use would be the water that gets displaced with air bubbles going into a faucet or pipe as I draw water from it, and that only works for a body of water that is in contact with some air and is above that air, so the shape of your pipes determines how much water you can draw with that method.

To allow for more toilet flushes while the water is off, would it be possible to "shotgun" the plumbing system in the house, just like people shotgun beers?  I am thinking I would turn on the highest component of the system (e.g. a shower on the 2nd story) in order to let air flow into the top of the system.  Then I should be able to use a lot of the water from the pipes in order to flush toilets on the ground floor.

Would this plan work?  Could it damage my plumbing?


texts: My house is 24'x24', (2 story), kitchen (main floor) has approx. 5 "bowed-up" floor joists in a row in the middle. I want to change all cabinetry, so while removed, how to "safely" remedy this bowed floor? I have access to the 2"x8" floor joists from unfinished basement. Built in late '78, main beam is wood. Would also like to know what causes this. Can I "sandwich" the bowed floor joists between 2 others (adhesive and bolts), then "shave" the top of the bowed joists in the middle? Seeking advice...


texts: Do I pay if a plumber did more than asked for on a job? Asked to replace a hot water shut off valve handle. He removed both shut off valves and replaced them.


texts: Minimum water pressure for swimming pool boiler?

texts: I have a swimming pool gas fired boiler (Crown Aruba) 150,000BTU. It is NOT a closed loop system. It takes the water out of the swimming pool, heats it in the boiler, and dumps the heated water back into the pool. Is there a minimum water pressure that I need to have in the boiler?


texts: How do I keep a clean recycle bin for organic material?

texts:
Location is New Zealand, Christchurch, we have a green rubbish bin per household that takes organic rubbish, which is collected weekly.

In summer, flies always manage to get in and soon after maggots start to crawl out of it. I have been using fly spray every second day but I am wondering if there is a better way to prevent this explosion of flies and maggots?

One way I can think of is to:

Every time after I dump food waste into it, I cover it up with a layer of lawn.

Thanks


texts:
GE has their PowerMark Gold series subpanels. Some of those are main lug that are convertible to main breaker.
I bought one of those panels
(https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-125-Amp-14-Spaces-24-Circuit-Convertible-Main-Breaker-Panel-Load-Center/1091073?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--elc--google--lia--206--switchgear--1091073-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5JKbiYKZ7QIVir3ACh3W0gu2EAQYByABEgJ_2fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds).
It does have the instructions for hooking up a back feed breaker in the upper right slot but doesn’t say how to configure with a separate kit.
(https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-PowerMark-Gold-125-Amp-2-Pole-Main-Circuit-Breaker-Conversion-Kit-THQMH125CP/100118346).
The kit also doesn’t say anything about the breaker panel cover.
The breaker cover panel does not have a knock out for that. Am I supposed to cut an opening for it or are these conversion kits not compatible?
Is cutting the breaker cover allowed by code?


texts: Is PebbleTec / PebbleSheen pool surface worth the extra cost? Any alternatives?

texts:
First time pool owner in the process of resurfacing a 15 year old pool.

We're getting sold hard on the PebbleSheen finish, but I'm not convinced it's worth the bump in cost. In searching online, it looks like there are a number of alternatives like:

DiamondBrite
Hydrazzo
Quartz Plaster
Wet Edge Primera Stone

Any thoughts? I need to make a decision in the next week and greatly appreciate your insight.


texts: Is voltage too high in C wire going to thermostat?

texts: I've managed to add a C wire to my thermostat. I then decided to check the voltage between the R and C wires, and find that it read as 27.8 volts, not the  24 volts it was supposed to be. Could this cause problems? I do have a Lux thermostat which is having trouble with it's ambient temperature reading, but I'm not sure if it's because of the voltage or something else.


texts: How can I interconnect two doorbells operating on different voltages?

texts:
i'm a noob/have rudimentary knowledge about batteries in series and parallel. i'll explain what i'm doing and would like your input as how to solve my problem.

i have 2 doorbells, one at the front of the house and one at the back.

please see attached photo of one doorbell to see how i've connected things up.

a 9v battery is attached to the black & red wires at the bottom. this doorbell uses the lower left & right terminals (at the top, where the white wires are) to connect to the push button. this forms one circuit.

then, the upper left & right terminals are connected to the other doorbell. that forms another circuit. that doorbell uses 4xAA batteries. so 6v.

as far as i can tell, both doorbells (batteries) are +ve to +ve.

so, first question: is this a series or parallel circuit?

what seems to be happening is that the 9v battery is draining/leaking because it becomes dead within a few weeks/months even if not used - ie not many people ringing the doorbell.

next question: how do i solve this 9v & 6v problem?

can i use a diode to stop the 9v battery leaking to the 6v one? how do i work out which diode i need to use?

or can it not be done? ie cannot make a 9v and a 6v parallel circuit work? (i'm assuming it is parallel).

or is there another way of configuring the wires so the 2 doorbells are separate? eg rather than using the upper terminals for the 2nd doorbell, i connect it directly to the push button? but then, the wires for both doorbells will be touching each other at the push button, and won't that also make a circuit and cause problems?

ok, over to you good people to give me the correct solution. thanks in advance.

the top circuit diagram shows the current and voltage if the first doorbell was by itself.
the next circuit diagram shows the current and voltage if the second doorbell was by itself.
however, I have the doorbells set up as in the last circuit diagram and there is a drain from the 9v battery into the 6v battery.


texts: Installing Tile on a painted wall with satin finish

texts:
I am redoing out laundry room and would like to put tile on a wall that is already painted. The paint is a satin finish and is in good condition as it is only 2 yrs old.

Is it ok to just spread the adhesive and install directly on the painted wall? Or should I do something else to prepare it?

Thanks!


texts: Catching/Stopping the Mice from getting into house

texts:
I have a mouse hole and the mice that it brought. Traps outside caught two so far, but I still hear mouse activity in the room inside this wall.
I am trying to understand the next steps.
(A) wait X days until traps don't catch more?
(B) put poison in the hole
(C) patch the hole up, whatever mice are inside will die.
Am I missing something? What would be the best approach?


texts: What type of window is this and how can I remove it with minimal damage to the wall?

texts:
I want to replace some old metal windows in my house but I'm confused on how they're attached/installed. I'm more accustomed to vinyl windows that have "fins" extending out the edges with trim.  These windows I'm replacing don't have that.  Here are some pictures:

I don't see any screws or nails holding it in.  Is there an adhesive perhaps that it covered by the outside plaster?


texts: Why don't people use rigid or spray foam insulation in attics?

texts:
I'm looking to upgrade the insulation in my attic bumping it from an R-6 to R-30 or better, and while looking into things I realized I've never seen anyone use rigid or spray foam insulation in an attic.

Is there a particular caveat to these, or is it just that most people prefer fiberglass batts?


texts: I am looking for a bracket that will attach a 2x2 support to the underside of a bed. The support needs to be attached to the headboard and footboard with this bracket at each end. What is this called and where can I find one?


texts: would like to color concrete mix can I use outdoor latex paint to mix in with the concrete?