texts: Air handler condensation draining problem

texts:
For the life of me, I cannot figure this out.  My air handler and heat pump were installed in 2006 and work great.  For the first summer since I've owned the home, condensation started to not drain properly and is leaking onto the filter and onto the basement floor.  The inside of this handler is spotless, including the drain pan.  I took apart the PVC pipe and cleaned it out well, although I don't think it needed it.  I still have major dripping!

It does not look to me like it should be overflowing.  It pours out of the hole circled below and then onto the floor and back into the unit and onto the filter.  If it is coming out of this hole, why is it not going down the correct outlet to the pipe?!

The only change point I can think of is that I purchased a box of filters on the web that had a pretty high MERV rating of 12.  The fan seems to push air through it pretty easily, but I am wondering if this is somehow producing a vacuum that is not letting the water drain correctly.  I removed the plugs pointed out below by the arrows to try and relieve this vacuum, but it did not work.  Any thought or advice?

Last night, I cracked open a cold one and just watched in the basement.  I can here the water build up in the pan as it makes this gurgling sound like some force is preventing it from draining, but it is on the verge of overflowing.  Once the blower stops, all the water drains quickly.  Some down the pipe, some out of the that hole.  If the water is building up, I simply don't understand why it won't drain down the pipe.

The water also drained when I removed the filter and left the cover off while the blower was running.


texts: replace stud that has vent pipe through it

texts: I had some water damage in my bathroom and a few of the studs are rotted. I am assuming they need to be replaced.  The problem is these studs have a plumbing vent pipe drilled through the middle of them. How would I go about putting new ones in? Is there a way to do this without cutting vent pipe?


texts: remove sheared screw from electrical outlet box?

texts:
A previous owner of my house (I swear it was not me :) ) appears to have broken off a screw in the hole (red circle) that allows the bottom of the outlet to attach to the box, leaving only the top hole (yellow circle) free to attach the outlet to.  What's the best way to get the screw out?  I know that one option is described in Removing broken screw from electrical box, but I'd like to preserve the existing threads if possible.  I tried grabbing it with needle-nosed pliers from the front and twisting it out, but it appears stuck either via corrosion or because it's the wrong size (although they did get it in that far).  I was thinking of trying the following approach:

apply WD-40 to the hole in the front and back to loosen up any rust
try grabbing it from behind the hole with curved needle-nosed pliers and see if I can at least move it out a little bit farther
if I can move it with the pliers, either unscrew it all the way, or get it out far enough that I could cut a groove in it to put a flathead screwdriver in

I could just try cutting the groove now, but that seems risky given that it might be stuck in there pretty well if it's the wrong size, and I don't currently have a lot of room for error if I cut it incorrectly.

What do you think?  Thanks in advance for any help!


texts: What can I use as a bowl for a DIY fire bowl/pit?

texts:
I'm looking at creating my own fire bowl, as I would find it more fun and satisfying instead of just buying one and plonking it down. I haven't decided if I want it standing or sunk, but that doesn't really matter just yet.

Does anyone have any ideas on what I could use for the actual bowl? I don't have the facilities to shape or weld metal, so something already "bowl shaped" is preferable.

Is there anything metal I could pick up as scrap that would work as a fire bowl? I don't mind the looks as I could possibly alter that


texts: Spindle speed of classic Cable Porter 100-M router?

texts:
I'm trying to calculate proper feed rates for my Cable Porter 100-M router which I have mounted on a 3-axis CNC machine. The spindle speed is not listed in the original user manual.

Does anyone know what would be a reasonable spindle RPM to use in my feed rate calculator? (I'm machining timber.)
As a sanity check, what would you expect to be a reasonable feed rate for a 6.35 mm / 1/4" straight cutter on pine (softwood) and teak (hardwood) with, say, a 3 mm cutting depth.

Many thanks.


texts: I have one outlet that gets power, but does not work

texts: I have an electrical outlet that stopped working.  I replaced the outlet, still not working.  I tested the outlet for power using my sperry meter and I have power.  Why would it still not work?


texts: I am buying a older home, the back porch steps are concrete and the top step that is just below the porch is extremely low is there a way to add a half step to avoid stepping down so long a distance?


texts: Is there a term for this bolt attachment mechanism?

texts:
We're installing Ikea cabinets in our kitchen.  The wall cabinets attach to a rail using a bolt-and-bolt-attachment-thingy that slides onto the rail, and the cabinets are then fastened to the bolts.  It seems pretty ingenious to me...and I'd like to duplicate the mechanism to solve a problem we're having.

What I'd like is to be able to do something very similar, but using a larger bolt, and preferably a much wider plate thing, so that I can attach the plate to the bottom of the base cabinets for threading the feet onto it (the one that came with the feet isn't long enough for our very not-level floor).  So...is there a term for this?  Is there a way to recreate this with off-the-shelf (or at least the internet's shelf) parts that don't require any machining?


texts: After what depth is a subsurface drain (e.g. French drain) no longer practical?

texts:
We currently have a building underway and it's foundation consists of individual concrete footings extending 3m (~10 ft) below ground. It's also worth noting that the structure does not have a basement.

I thought it would be a good idea to install a subsurface drain (e.g. French drain) around the building as a safety/preventative measure. However, it seems to me that maintaining and replenishing a subsurface drain drain at the depth of the footings (3 m / ~10 ft) would be quite impractical and costly. Also, the sump into which it drains would be equally deep and hard to maintain.

What are my options in this scenario?

Do foundations as deep as mine usually implement subsurface drainage?
Is a subsurface drain even worth having in my scenario? (Recall there is no basement.)
Should I split the difference and install the drain at a shallower depth above the footings?


texts: How do I find gas leak behind the wall or the cabinet?

texts: I know that you can buy a gas leak detector wand about $30 and you can scan to the pipe. However, if it's behind the wall or under the tile (You can't see the pipe). Is there anyway to check it before I call contractor to repair or open the wall, which is costly way to do that?


texts: Air sealing vent baffles in cathedral ceiling

texts:
I am reroofing my house.  I am taking the opportunity to pull up the decking above the cathedral ceiling and adding air baffles to help cool the roof and reduce ice dams.

In order to accomplish this, I am using 1 inch rigid foam board pushed down two inches with spacers between board and roof deck.  I am using the foam board to regain some of the reduced r value from compressing the fiberglass insulation, but also for the rigidity to help compress the fiberglass.

Should I air seal all the seams between sheets of foam board, or leave them open to allow moisture in the fiberglass a path to escape?  The fiberglass is foil backed with the foil against the ceiling.  Ceiling is tongue and groove wood, so probably pretty permeable.


texts: Hear water running in basement pipe near sump pump

texts: I recently bought a house and have found clear standing water in back yard and can hear water running in basement but nothing is turned on in the house .  I am on a well and have septic.  The  basement had been flooded somehow by previous owner and they had cut the line to sump pump but that has been replaced and line fixed.   There is a black corrugated pipe that feeds into bottom of sump pump don't know what it is for .  Obviously no water meter since not city water.   Any ideas ?


texts: How can I repair crumbling tile sealant?

texts:
About a year ago, we hired a worker to tile my kitchen : I don't know how he worked, I wasn't there. The result seemed good enough.

However, today, in some places, the sealant seems to be crumbling : we occasionally find bits about 1 cm long.

What causes that, and what can I do ?


texts: We recently acquired a 20 year old Honda EM3500SX generator for use with a manual transfer switch when the utility power goes out. My wife would like to be able to operate the generator when I'm away, but pulling the starter might be beyond her abilities. The owner's manual (see below) mentions an optional battery kit, the installation of which involves connecting a battery ("rated 12V-18-35AH or more") to an existing starter motor. I have a portable car starting box, basically a big battery with jumper cables, which matches the voltage. Can I simply connect the red (positive) jumper cable to the bare screw (with red wire attached) on the starter solenoid (see photo, below), the black (negative) jumper cable to the frame, and have that function as a temporary starter battery?


texts: What are these pins for that I keep finding in my steel cabinets?

texts:
I keep finding these pegs in the steel cabinets I just bought for my garage.    During the process of assembly and every time I move them,  new ones keep appearing inside the cabinets.

Do they serve a purpose or are they a byproduct of the manufacturing process?


texts: Can gutters be installed on top of shingles?

texts:
I saw the strangest thing in northern New York State in an area that gets a lot of snow.
Gutters were installed on top of the roof, maybe over the 4th or 5th row of shingles up from the bottom.
This couldn't possibly be up to code or even a good idea could it?


texts: Will many weak bulbs be more luminous than one bright one?

texts:
I'm getting a floor lamp for my small apartment and want to get the best lighting I can from a single fixture.

I basically have two choices:

A reading lamp: a single 100W bulb directed towards the ceiling, plus a 60 watt bulb pointed downards.
Three 60W bulbs on one pole pointed various directions.

Which of these fixtures will put out the most light for a roughly square room?


texts: In removing my desk drawers, I broke one of the 12 clips when I squeezed the top, it snapped.   Where can I find a replacement?  Is there a name for this type of clip?


texts: How to unscrew a broken washing machine filter cap?

texts:
The plastic cap on my washing machine filter was stuck so I applied a little too much force when unscrewing it and its handle broke. Any idea what tools to use to remove it?

The washing machine is a Whilrpool AWE 4526.


texts: How can I run voice over existing coaxial cable?

texts:
I've been doing home improvement projects for a while and one thing that I've made use of the most is taking advantage of existing cabling in the walls that isn't being used. The project that did this the most was my "video-over-coax" setup, which uses a composite-video-to-cable modulator and a coax switch to show some video output on the whole coax network, for example the security camera monitor. This thing works by tuning into a specified channel on the TV that the coax is attached to.

I want to get access to my landline phone signal from my garage/office. As of now, there are only a couple of connections from the network closet (where the main networking stuff is, most importantly here the phone line switch) to the garage, which are a coax line and an Ethernet line (which can't be tampered with because it's needed for an internet connection).

Simply running new cable from the closet to the garage is unfortunately impractical, since it would need to be underground (the garage and main house are separated from each other) and we can't do that.

  skip to here to ignore background info ramble

The only solution I can come up with is somehow modulating the voice signal over the existing coax line and demodulating it at the other end (and vice versa because voice is two-way), which I have no idea how to do (or if it's even possible). The main problem here is that my current modulation setup is one-way, video-->coax-->TV, where the TV never interacts back with the modulator or video source. This is obviously incompatible with voice (and IP, etc), which means I would need some sort of modem on both ends rather than a modulator on one and a demodulator on the other. Regardless, if it is indeed possible, how could I go about running voice over coax?

Expanding on this I'm also curious if I can do "general purpose" modulation, wherein I could run stuff that's completely unrelated to what coax is usually used for, like USB or SPI (for Arduino), over the existing cable. I've ran USB over Cat5 cable before with success (the 4 USB wires connected to 4 of the 8 Cat5 wires on either end), which is what brings up this idea.


texts: How is the input connection made to a punch down block?

texts:
I'm installing a patch panel using Cat 6 cable to the various rooms of the house that will require internet service. I have a 12 port punch down block, and understand how to punch down the connections in accordance with the color codes I'm using. However, I have a basic question.

There will need to be an input to the patch panel (from the cable provider) through the Modem/Router. How is that connection made to the punch down block?  Is one of the 12 ports simply designated as "Input" and the rest the various locations?  I do not see a separate "input" location.


texts: Can I backfill without inspections using sight tubes?

texts: What code section is it where you can use sight tubes in the trench to determine the depth of your installed conduit so we can backfill without inspection??


texts:
Make is SAUTER, It's white and the cooker operates with gas

The problem

I want to bake pizza.

I don't know what are the different modes for the oven knob (the two knobs on the left are the temperature knob and the 'operation' mode), as all of the writings are erased by now (it's kind of old).

Experimenting with it could be hazardous and time consuming and a users manual could help clear this out.

Pizza means the oven should only generate heat from the bottom and I'm having trouble finding the correct position for the knob :)

What I've tried

Googling for starters, but it's old and hard to find, I've tried playing with the knob, but that did not work well.
I looked behind / inside the bottom shelf and there is no sticker that describes what's the make/model etc


texts: What are low-cost ways of cooling down a room?

texts:
How do I cool a bedroom - that has a ceiling & standing fan, but is still hot?

Ideally, the cheaper the better.

I live in Jamaica - where the climate is warm most of the time, and the summers are very hot. Even the nights.

I have a Zinc roof, and a wooden ceiling....so in the night, it feels like it is just releasing from the roof.

The both fans don't make the room too cool.

An A/C is too expensive right now.

P.S. I was thinking that maybe if I could make some thing that is water based, that I put behind the fan, then the fan would be blowing cool air and that would cool the room? Not sure what I would make, or how I would do that...so that is the type of answer I am looking for. Not "buy X wall-mounted A/C unit". That is out of the question.


texts: How can I run air tubing into a PVC manifold / fitting?

texts:
I am attempting to build a photobioreactor, in other words a water-filled system for growing algae. I'm using a series of 1.5" clear tubes to hold the water, the bottoms of which will connect to a PVC manifold I've assembled by gluing a bunch of tees together. The nominal pipe/fitting size I'm using is 1-1/4" schedule 40 PVC.

There are ten tubes (currently) and I need to be able to bubble air through each tube to deliver carbon dioxide to the algae. I don't know how to run the air tubing into the manifold underneath each tee to deliver the air bubbles. The tubing and fittings I'm using for air are actually 1/4" drip irrigation parts.

I'm attaching some photos of what I have tried so far:

First attempt: drilled 1/4" holes, pushed tubing in, silicone around each hole. Result: leaks

Second attempt: Enlarged holes slightly (5/16"), siliconed the "misting" drip irrigation fitting right to the hole. Result: came apart during handling.

My next attempt was going to involve enlarging the hole and tapping 1/4" NPT threads into the wall of the fitting, and screwing a barbed adapter directly in. The reason I didn't do this from the beginning is because of the cumulative cost of all the extra fittings. I'm looking for other suggestions or perhaps some part or fitting I've not heard of that will make this easier.


texts: White neutral wire wirenutted to black hot

texts:
I have three 14/2 wires coming in to a box. The wire on the left goes to the garage door opener outlet. The bottom right goes to a single light switch and connects to the light as well. The other wire goes to a junction box that goes to some of the outside lights and their switches.
Why would the light switch white wire go into the wire nutted black wires? (Not understanding that at all).
I was basically planning to add an extra outlet to garage and was going to add one more wire in here but now I’m confused. Also they used that one terminal for two screws which seems like a no no. (This is  a prior homeowners contractor work or maybe original).


texts: Do I need to suplimentary seal the joint between pavers and patio edge when that joint is used as a drain channel?

texts:
Initially I was looking for this:

I was told that distributors do not sell this anymore because it is unsafe (tripping hazard).
I am thinking about using the joint between my pavers and my edge to for a drain channel. The patio is sloped in such a way that it will allow me to do this. Here is a ground zero view of my patio and the beveled concrete blocks used for edging.

Do I need to supplementary seal the joint between pavers and patio edge concrete blocks when that joint is used as a drain channel?


texts:
I'm toying with the idea of completely knocking and rebuilding my house.  Does anyone here have experience with prefabs?  In my case I'd need a 2000ft2 modern but traditional-looking house (since my town has a saying on the design and they wouldn't accept ultra-modern looks).

Any pointers?  Any experiences?


texts: Is it ok to use a brass compression sleeve on vinyl tubing?

texts:
I'm putting together a fountain feature in my yard and I'm using vinyl tubing from the pump to the bottom of the feature (which has a copper tube inside). I've got a compression union to connect the two, and I'm pretty sure it'll work fine on the copper side. But on the vinyl side everything I see indicates that I should use a plastic sleeve on the outside of the tube inside the compression nut.

In this case, however, the fitting that I picked up has captured brass sleeves (by which I mean that they're attached to the nut, not a separate piece).

Is this likely to damage my tubing? Should I pick up a different fitting or can I just be extra careful about over tightening?


texts:
I'm looking for ideas for low voltage wiring for new house/renovation.

My house is gutted due to a massive flood. Walls are open so now's the time to upgrade. I am already pulling cat6 around the the house.  Nearly 20 years in IT taught me to always pull 2 runs even if you're only going to use 1 right now.  Most everything is wireless now with mesh connected light bulbs, thermostats, speakers, etc.  I don't see that changing.  I'm not sure what else we would use.


texts: Fast hot water - tankless heater as backup or recirculator

texts:
My master bathroom is the farthest from my electric water heater (traditional with a tank) on the other side of the house. All other faucets are much closer and receive quick hot water. During the bathroom remodel I've been spoiled using the guest bath that is directly adjacent to the hot water heater with instant hot water. I've looked into recirculating pumps but they seem to waste quite a bit of electricity having hot water in the pipes all the time. My pipes are mostly in the unconditioned crawlspace, however, they are insulated with fiberglass wrap or foam.

I was wondering if instead of a recirculating pump could I get a smaller model tankless water heater like the Rheem RTE 13 or the Ecosmart 13 and connect the inlet to my hot water line at the master bath. This would in theory have the tankless heater heat the water when it receives the cool water from the pipes and then stop supplying heat when it receives heated water from the tank. It seems like this is a similar arrangement to solar hot water backup, see Where can I find good resources on solar thermal backup options?.

One review of the Ecosmart says thermistor issues result in inconsistent heating when the inlet temperature is too high (> 120F).
http://www.amazon.com/review/R2AH7NY585PJN3

Based on the calculators/ground water temps in Eastern Washington to supply my entire hot water demand for the bathroom would require a larger 18kW heater and it would be great to be able to get a away with a smaller model in the proposed back-up arrangement.

Does anyone have experience using a tankless heater in this way? Can it be done or should I simply go the recirculating route, although most evidence suggests this is a waste of electricity. Also, I would prefer not to loop my hot water down my cold water line so I'll probably run a separate PEX hot water line back to my hot water heater if necessary.


texts: Why does my digital multimeter report small voltage between a battery and unattached metal and my fingers?

texts:
I was performing some 12 volt DC voltage drop tests and I got a reading that I did not understand.  Hopefully someone here can satisfy my curiosity.
I had the positive lead on a 12 volt battery positive.  When I touched the tip of the common lead with my fingers, I got an 11 volt reading.  I was not grounded to the system.  Out of curiosity I then touched a small piece of metal that was not grounded to anything...it had a 1 volt reading.  How is that possible?
I thought the common lead had to return to battery ground to measure the difference between the leads.  I know now that is not the case, but I don't understand what is happening to get that reading.  Can a human complete a circuit and power a load without returning to battery ground?


texts: Per IRC, are flexible PVC couplings ever allowed to be used above ground for PVC to PVC connections?

texts:
It is my understanding that flexible PVC couplings (e.g. Fernco) meet the definition of Mechanical Joint in the international residential code. The 2015 IRC prohibits the use of Mechanical Joints on PVC couplings above ground "unless otherwise approved". I am having trouble finding the right terms to help me identify where else they are approved.

Where else are flexible PVC tees/wyes/elbows allowed (if anywhere) for use in PVC to PVC joints?

  2015 International Residential Code

  P3003.9 PVC Plastic Joints between PVC plastic pipe or fittings shall comply with Sections P3003.9.1 through P3003.9.3.

  P3003.9.1 Mechanical Joints Mechanical joints on drainage pipe shall be made with an elastomeric seal conforming to ASTM C 1173, ASTM D 3212 or CSA B602. Mechanical joints shall not be installed in above-ground systems, unless otherwise approved. Joints shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

  2015 International Residential Code

  Section R202 Definitions

  MECHANICAL JOINT.

  A connection between pipes, fittings or pipes and fittings that is not welded, brazed, caulked, soldered, solvent cemented or heat-fused.
  A general form of gas- or liquid-tight connections obtained by the joining of parts through a positive holding mechanical construction such as, but not limited to, flanged, screwed, clamped or flared connections.


texts: Water dripping from bathroom faucet even with the under-sink valves turned off?

texts:
Question: All of a sudden we have a dripping bathroom fauce - more of a thin stream of water rather than a slow drip. But even when I turn off the quarter-turn Hot/Cold water valves located under sink, the water doesn't completely stop; it it just barely slows to a very fast drip-drip-drip-drip. What would be causing this to happen? Is it an issue with the quarter-turn valves themselves, which are only about 3 years old, or with the actual faucet fixture? Or could it be something else entirely?
We have no access to main water shut-off within the apartment as it's a per floor/tier water system, accessible only by maintenance staff/plumbers in the building.
Lastly, is there anything I can do in the interim to stop the water from the faucet until Monday when I can get a hold of maintenance?
Thank you so much.


texts:
I am asking carpenter to build one table top cabinet for bathroom. He never did anything like this
It will have marble top with hole and sinks placed on it.
For exit of water pipes will be there from sink bottom, how do I factor in space for pipe to take water from sink to drain pipe. Do i keep pipe shape space  in cabinet or leave all space after pipes empty?


texts: Reducing Heating Costs - Old Brick Apartment, Space Heater vs Central

texts:
In preparations for the colder months, I am looking into ways to reduce heating costs in my apartment. I just moved to it in July, so I am not sure how well it handles the colder months. One of the central issues is using space heaters vs a central unit.

I have done research on the topic. The problem is that, in a nutshell, it seems the opinion is that space heaters work for a few small rooms, while central heating is best for large areas and many rooms. However, the set up of my apartment is somewhat unusual. There is a very large living area ( I would estimate it is at least 20 x 20 feet), with approximately 14 ft. high ceilings. This is the room I spend most of my time in, so keeping it warm is important. However, there is also a bedroom that my sister uses - it probably is about 12 x 12 feet - that we also need to keep warm. Additionally, these is a kitchen and bathroom. We would like to keep these warm, but they are secondary to the bedroom and living space.

With this scenario, which option would likely prove more efficient, space heating or central? What form of space heaters would you recommend.

Thanks.


texts: Charging a battery bank with Solar Cells

texts:
So essentially bought one of these "solar battery banks" for a weather station project i am working on.
Long story short the power output for the built in cell is awful.
Now the question is, can I just hook up a bigger solar cell to a USB output and plug into the battery bank directly to charge it? For example;
Solar cell - usb - battery bank
rather than
solar cell - charge controller - usb - battery bank
I know that these banks have their own internal charge controller so assuming I get a 5V output panel would this be ok?


texts: Safety of 3-Way Lightbulb That Exceeds Max Wattage Only On Highest Setting

texts: Can you safely use a 3-way bulb (50-100-150W) for a lamp that accepts a 100W bulb maximum? Is there any fire hazard involved?


texts: How to remove this PVC to cast iron adapter?

texts:
I need to remove the existing PVC to cast iron adapter in the main waste outlet of my basement. Another PVC fitting will be added in place.

This is a 4" cast iron with a rubber ring that seals between the PCV and the iron.

Here's what I've done:

PVC pipe will rotate freely in the rubber.
PVC pipe will deflect left/right up/down a few degrees without much force.
Added some soap as lubrication. This made the above 2 things a bit easier.
Pulling outwards: it won't move at all, even while pulling and rotating/wiggling at once.

I had imagined that this was a straight pipe passing through a rubber "donut" but after what I've tried so far, I'm not sure. It feels like something solid is preventing it from pulling out.

I could cut the PVC apart as I don't need to reuse it. But I don't want to damage anything inadvertently (especially the cast iron) and would rather do it right if that is possible.

Thanks for any advice!


texts: dripping sound in ceiling when central heating gets warm

texts: I am a complete novice about plumbing so apologies in advance. Basically I have noticed that, when my central heating warms up I hear what sounds like a dripping noise in the ceiling. This seems to start slow, speed up then slow down. After a few seconds it will start again and so on, as long as the central heating is on. Once I switch off the heating it takes about half an hour for this dripping noise to stop completely. Is this likely to be a leak or is there another explanation?


texts: What are these (utility?) boxes at the side of the house?

texts:
What are the four boxes in the picture below for? The fat pipe to the left goes up to the electricity meter. I've also included pictures of the two labels I could find.

Also, why is there a green plastic rope coming out of the first box? I found the box slightly gaping with the bottom screw missing1, and the rubber water seal around the cover a bit ripped where the rope is coming from. When I pull on the rope, there seems to be no resistance as if I could completely pull it out of the box. The fact that the seal is cut up where the rope is makes me think it wasn't supposed to be there in the first place...Should I pull out the rope and fix the seal of the box's cover?

1 I placed a new screw as seen in the picture, so that the box isn't gaping wide open (to rain, insects, etc.)...


texts: Does this electric panel meet code and does the wiring from it meet NEC standards

texts:
I have an apartment building, with a panel that supplies 2 different apartments.
Breaker #15 supplies all electricity to 2 bedrooms and a living room including lighting and electric outlets.
Breaker #2 supplies 1 bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen (kitchen has gas stove). The service to this panel is 100 amps.
Questions:

Does this panel meet current electrical code standards?

If it does not meet code, can I simply replace it with a code conforming panel or must I rewire all the wires going from each breaker to the electric outlets & lighting fixtures upstairs (something that I am trying to avoid because of the extensive cost). This panel is in the basement, and the apartments that it powers are on the 1st and 2nd floors.

Does the current electric code limit how many rooms can be supplied by a single circuit breaker. In other words must I run additional wires upstairs to the 2nd floor or is the #2 and #15 breaker setup enough to pass code inspection? This is a rental, thus I am trying to avoid excessive repairs and remodeling due to budget constraints.


texts: What should I do before re-painting my skirting boards?

texts:
I'll be painting the skirting boards in my room as they are in bad condition. The paint is cracked and the surface uneven and blotchy. What I would like to know is how should I treat the skirting boards before painting them. From some googling I've got a rough idea of what I should be doing:

Strip the previous layers of paint using a paint stripper or heat gun, then apply a primer and then paint over this
Sand down the skirting board, apply a primer and then paint over this

The first seems quite a laborious task and i'm wondering if the returns are worth it.

Which of the above methods is better? Are there any other methods that are better?

The second seems more manageable however I'm wondering what kind of sand paper I should use? I'm aware that there are different grades, which grade of sanding paper is appropriate for sanding down paint on skirting boards so as to get the surface ready for a primer? Also is it even necessary to apply a primer to a wooden surface that has already been painted?

The paint I will be applying to the surface is of an eggshell finish.

What else can I do to ensure I end up with a good result?

Thank you.


texts: How do you connect a Nest thermostat to a Noritz CB199 DV combi boiler?

texts: I have only one zone and I'm using the internal boiler pump. I do not have any zone valves. I have a 24v transformer and a White Rodgers 90-370 relay.


texts: How to Remove Adhesive Residue from New Wooden Table?

texts:
I recently purchased and received a brand new black wooden coffee table which arrived with a sticker on top. I carefully removed the sticker itself but it left a adhesive or sticky residue. What can I use to remove this residue without leaving a mark or blemish on the coffee table?
Thank you


texts:
I’ve just purchased my first home and have many improvements to make but seem to have way too many useless tools cluttering the garage and as they are outdated I’m looking to replace them for a multi purpose tool or two. I need a tool which will be

lightweight ( weak wrists)
cordless
under 100 gbp
not pink or designed for ‘women’
It must be able to

drill holes for raw plugs and screws into a range of media but mainly interior plasterboard walls etc
drive and remove screws directly into all media  ranging from  soft wood to  medium brick to masonry
be powerful enough to drill holes and drive screws with little physical effort on my part
whip,thru flat pack with ease

be available in the uk.
have a degree of user control over speed and power.

I desperately need to get some shelving and fixed storage up on the inside of my bricked garage and a mailbox fixed to  wooden front door and fun lots of hooks to wooden fence.
Help!!!!


texts: replacing dishwasher hose, which way do I turn this?

texts: I am trying to replace a hose on my portable dishwasher. The connection is very difficult to reach and I'm not sure what I should be turning and which way I should be turning it. It was very hard to get a good picture but I'm attaching what I got. The hose end has a male screw end and that seems to go into a female socket type thing. Any suggestions for a proper tool and which way to turn? Thanks.


texts: How can I lower a dirty arm trap drain(outlet) to accommodate a lower sink?

texts:
Similar to many others, I'm installing a new sink that is significantly deeper than the one it is replacing.  Due to added sink depth and the location the builder chose to install the original drain - I believe I need to lower the drain so that the waste can properly drain.

After the new counter top, undermount 10" deep sink, and garbage disposal, I've determined that the garbage disposal drain will be about 1/2" below the center of the waste drain.

I've determined that the drain is a dirty arm (horizontal style) drain instead of a more traditional trap drain (vertical style).

How would one go about lowering the drain 3" or so specifically with this dirty arm setup?  Tearing into the wall under this cabinet is not a problem, but access to the left of the cabinet where it appears the sanitary tee is would be a significant challenge.


texts: What should I know before having bathroom fixtures installed?

texts:
I recently removed the old towel rack in the bathroom (which was badly installed because it left huge holes inside and the rack was hanging and I had to literally tug it out, which took me ages!) and an old toilet roll paper holder. I filled up the holes with Selley's putty, sanded it and have painted both toilet and bathroom. Now I want to attach three fixtures: a rack, roll holder and a wooden rack above the toilet to hang a basket as a space saver. I am terrified it will not be drilled in properly and want some advice before I call a handyman. This way I can't be cheated out of $100 with a damaged wall and I know what is happening. Any advice would be good.

One wall is drywall with an external wall on the other side and the roll holder and rack need to be attached on drywall.


texts: What could cause lights to come on full strength then dim?

texts:
I just finished setting this up:

There are actually 4 lights chained together at the end rather than just one. Once I finished I turned the circuit back on and tried out the switches. All of them work as expected.
The only problem is the lights (all 4) will come on at full brightness for just a second then become very dim and remain there. What could be causing this?
EDIT: I did some more investigation. Everything works perfectly if I limit the wattage being pulled. It is currently working with 3 13W CFLs and 1 23W CFL. If I take out one of the 13W bulbs and put in another 23W or an incandescent light then the dimming behaviour returns. It's like there isn't enough power for all four bulbs.
This image belongs to do-it-yourself-help.com. The original wiring diagram can be found here: https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/4_way_switch_diagram.html


texts: Is there a way to increase toilet flush pressure to prevent clogs?

texts: My toilet seems to be a little, well, underpowered when it comes to flushing. It often "chokes" and "coughs" when flushing only liquid, which seems to indicate that the water pressure isn't high enough for the toilet. When flushing more solid waste, it clogs at least once a week. Can I increase the pressure when flushing to prevent this from happening?


texts: Aftermarket Variable/Multi Speed Blower Kits

texts:
I have a 3 year old Trane Furnace TUD1A040A9241AB with a 2 ton Cooling evaporator 4TXCA024BCHCBA.  I believe it is a single speed blower or if not, I would like to figure out how to limit/eliminate the highest speed.  It is noisy!  Have to constantly change the TV volume based on if it is running or not and now with COVID19 and wife working from home, she can't hear on conference calls when it is running.

I heard there are aftermarket kits that can vary the speed (with some type of rheostat?) that have two thermistors both upstream and downstream of the blower.  Mainly need to solve this issue with AC mode as we live in a condo in Florida and rarely even need to use the gas furnace as our elderly neighbors seem to keep their condo's so warm that our condo never gets cold in the winter.

Advice?


texts: Can my front door swing away from the wall?

texts:
Currently we have a 36" front door that we want to replace.  It has a faux door vintage late 60s USA on the outside.  So on the outside it looks like we have double doors but really just one door - so we need to cover a 72" gap that is surrounded by brick on each side.

The current dooris right handed and  is about 8 inches from wall that it hits when it is opened.  So it opens at about 110 degrees into a wall.

We are moving to a door + a sidelite/window setup on each side at 14"-18".

So window panel then door then window panel to cover the whole door space of 72".

Should the door still open to the wall or does it matter?  So if we go to a LH door it would open all the way to the wall the door is on - 180 degrees.  If we go RH door it will eventually hit current wall it is on (could put a bench there) but at a greater angle than it current does since it will be at least 12-16" further away - hinges to wall.


texts: Shower gets colder during use, already replaced cartridge, what else could it be?

texts:
Recently purchased a house built in 2006. The shower gets colder as time passes and requires constant adjustment of the valve in order to maintain temperature. I replaced the cartridge in the valve with a brand new one, and the problem persists. What else could it be?

I have heard it can have something to do with hot water recirculating pumps as well, which I do have installed.

EDIT:
I know I'm not running out of hot water because I can use the adjacent faucet right after the shower and get hot water.


texts: No studs for glass shower door - Can I hollow wall anchor?

texts:
I am looking to install a glass shower door using this frame.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-48-in-to-60-in-Semi-Frameless-Contemporary-Sliding-Shower-Door-Track-Assembly-Kit-in-Nickel-SDLCS60-NIK-R/206195442

The glass is really heavy. The concern is I won't really be installing this door into studs. The vertical bar will be in studs but Most of the weight is in two collars that site on top and protrude about 1.5 inches from the vertical bar. Those collars have two anchor screws. They will sit next to the stud but not be on it.

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/7b/7baa3fd5-f83d-4234-a27b-f1875b91010a.pdf

Page 22 through 24.

That section is a hollow back wall. I have tile and 1/2 inch cement board. No stud is available at that section. I called delta and they said I would need to purchase and use 3/16th inch tile anchors. They did not seem concerned with hanging these doors using anchors.

So two questions. Will it be safe to hang 75 lbs of glass door using 4 anchors? If so what type of 3/16 inch anchors would you use? When I search home depot there are a lot. I would prefer to get them at home depot. I am having my bathroom guys hang the door but I have to supply all the materials.

If it matters the anchor positions will be about half an inch from the studs.


texts: I have two water heaters - how can I tell if they are set in series, parallel, or are isolated?

texts:
The question says it all - I have a 4,200 sqft house with two water heaters - one on the far side of the house in the garage and the other in a small closet by the master suite. The latter is at least a decade older.

I have no idea how they're set up. They could be in a sequence, series, or maybe even one does part of the house and the other does the rest. Is there a way to determine this as a layperson with virtually no home repair knowledge?


texts: Ceiling light fitting activate by sensor wall switch

texts: I have installed a motion sensor in the kitchen, replacing the original light switch. I have a ceiling light fixture, which has six two pin Halogen GU 10 bulbs fitted and I replaced these with six LED bulbs.  They worked fine until after a few minutes when they began to flash rapidly. Is there anything I can add to the light fitting to stop this happening or do I put up with the original Halogen bulbs?  The Halogen bulbs are 40 watts each but the LED ones are only 3 watts each. Thanks!


texts: What can I use to protect my walls from marks and scratches?

texts:
I store my skis against the wall, and over time the wall ends up with black marks and scratches from the minor rubbing from the skis. It's removable with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, but I would rather protect the wall.

I would prefer a solution that doesn't screw into or damage the wall. I have thought of helicopter tape, but I'm not sure if that would rip off paint when removed. I need a strip about a foot high and multiple feet long, roughly at eye level.


texts:
I bought a house with large raised deck, and the home inspector told me that I need to replace all of the screws with no shear screws, and that since they used screws originally, I cannot use nails now. I've found no-shear screws that look like they were intended for the braces used on the deck. These screws appear to be just slightly thicker, which seems good to ensure a tight fit, but they are not as long as the screws currently in the deck. Will this cause issues or instability? Do I need to use no-shear screws that are both wider and as long or longer than the screws currently in the deck?

Finally, is there any chance that they used appropriate screws originally (pictures included)? How could I determine this?

**Update I've added another image showing where these are located. They are the only connectors for the horizontal supports directly under the deck surface and run from the house to a set of posts on the other side of the deck. The connector on the other side rests on the posts and these are attached to that piece. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions so far!


texts: Can fill hoses be reused for a new washer?

texts:
I'm finding that major appliance retailers and manufacturers insist that a new washer requires new fill hoses. Used fill hoses cannot be reused, it is claimed.

Of course I have to wonder about this since (a) many (most?) units do not come with the required hoses and (b) the folks dispensing this advice would happily sell me new hoses. If a new washer requires new hoses, what is the justification for not including them as a matter of course?

Can old fill hoses be reused? If not, why not?


texts: control multiple lighting contactors from multiple sources without turning everything on

texts:
I have a situation that I have never run into: the customer is asking for multiple ways to control the lights in a large complex. This is what they want.

first the simple part: 1 photocell that will turn on all the contactors at one time.
second: be able to turn on any one contactor without turning on the others (this is for maintenance of individual areas during the day). I figured simple enough, use a 3-way or 3-position switch on all the contactors so I can have them all on photocell and can switch to manual control with any switch to the contactor of choice.
now they want the big part: also be able to turn on any individual contactor with a remote computer or phone. They have the relays to do it.

But the question is how to keep them all separate. If I tie the relay to the photocell side, then they all will come on. If I tie to the manual side then they would need to flip the switch to manual, meaning the remote from the phone would be useless.


texts: What type of outlet could this be in picture?

texts: Does anyone know what type of outlet this is? I'm thinking it has to do with an old antenna but not sure. Found on a family member's house and they weren't sure.


texts: How to connect 4 fan coils with one wall control thermostat?

texts: I have 4 fan coils (Sabiana sk-22)and I want to connect them with one wall control thermostat. How can I do?


texts: Dry Lining Wall - Should I stagger the joints in this project?

texts:
I have 5 sheets of 8' x 4' sheet rock laminated insulation to affix inside a bedroom - the wall to which I am affixing is a cavity brick wall built in the 1990's. The internal height is just under 8'. The easiest thing for me to do would be to place the sheets vertically and not stagger any joints.

Is there any benefit or need to start making things more difficult and placing the sheets horizontally and staggering the joints?


texts: What could cause kerosene-like odor from a gas oven/range?

texts:
Suddenly my gas range/stove emits a kerosene-like odor when I operate the stove, and especially when I operate the oven -- but our service is natural gas.

I called the local gas utility, and they sent a tech out. The tech said there were no leaks. He inspected all around the house, replaced the service meter (the old one was vintage 1981) and poked around with a sniffer to look for, I presume, underground leaks.

He asked if I had painted or cleaned anything lately. I haven't. No paint, no cleaners, etc.  I did clean the range top about a week ago, but I used the same stuff I always use and have never had this gas-like smell before. Furthermore I have not cleaned the oven.

The scent is nauseatingly strong when I operate the oven, but still present when I only operate the range.

I read on some forums that the oven igniter might be bad, but all the stove burners and the oven light quickly as they always have.


texts: What are the pros and cons of different types of smart switches on the UK market?

texts:
When putting in a new switch for a light, it is often less work to put in a smart switch than run the mains cables.

However how do you choose the type of smart switch to use?

See Also "What are the pros and cons of different types of smart switches (That are on the USA market)?"


texts: Razor Socket to GFCI Conversion Kit.. Load terminals vs Pigtail

texts:
Hi,
I'm trying to convert this 1973 "Razor Only" socket to GFCI. I have the full conversion kit and I'm wondering the best way to approach wiring it. I've seen videos where electricians do it differently, either:

first disconnecting the switch from the socket and then throwing a pigtail between the whites and blacks to the GFCI line terminals...
OR first disconnecting the switch and then separating out line and load based on the voltages in the energized circuit.

Is one of those approaches superior to the other? I.e. Is there a meaningful difference between the wiring options ("GFCI Pigtail" vs "GFCI Proposed") in this diagram: Circuit Drawings
PS For wiring:

Top Right Red - Light Switch Hot In
Top Right Black - Always On (?) Hot In
Bottom Right Black -  Hot Out... to unknown (?)
Top Left Black - Hot Out to vanity light.


texts: ceiling joist allowable span southern california

texts: I'm adding ceiling joists in my garage. It's a 19' span between walls, and I'm using structural or #1 lumber. Should I use 2x8x22 OR 2X10X22 spaced 12" on center? I'll be adding 1/2" or 5/8" drywall.


texts: How can I attach deck railing boards to the top of the rails?

texts:
What's the best way to attach a board to another board that's resting over it?
The rail is a 2x4 and it will be held, on each side, by a 4x4. Under the 2x4 rail I'll have another 2x4 that will keep the top 2x4 straight.
This is basically it:

I only have a circular saw and a jigsaw, so, I can't do complex joints.
I forgot to mention that I have to attach these 2x4s to the 4x4 wood posts.


texts:
I'm planning a DIY patio paver project. The site is down a steep hillside only accessible via steps, where bringing in large amounts of base rock would be back breaking work.

I found this product called Brock Paver Base which purports to eliminate the need for the 4-6" layer of base rock. It is used in conjunction with a bed of sand directly over bare ground. However this product is quite expensive for what is essentially a piece of plastic with holes in it for drainage.

www.brockpaverbase.com

It seems to me that interior cement board with holes drilled in a regular pattern would accomplish the same effect of distributing the paver load over a larger area, at a fraction of the cost per sqft.

Has anyone heard of this being done, or see any obvious problem with it? Other cost effective base materials (outdoor carpet? vinyl flooring?)

Edit: This is in coastal California where frost is not an issue.


texts: Basement subfloor, how exactly should I do it?

texts:
I am finishing a basement with my father and want to put in a subfloor. I know if there was ever enough water I would probably have to replace the floor anyways but want to give myself a couple inches more so to protect the expensive electronics I will have down there. There is also a sewer access port and two ground rods that stick ~ 2 inches above the concrete floor.

We were originally planning to lay down pressure treated 2x4's the tall way getting us over the two obstructions and build a plywood floor on top of it. After that we were going to build two small access panels in the floor should we ever need to get to them.

An uncle who is a carpenter stopped by this weekend and said if it was his basement he would not even bother building a subfloor. He said the basement was bone dry and it would be a waste. Even if we did get water it would be trapped in between the 2x4's with no way to get it out. The obstructions are in a corner so we would just box them in somehow going that direction.

This now puts me back to planning. I can't see a disadvantage to building a subfloor other than money and height though the ceiling down there is 8ft so height is not an issue.

What is the best way to build the basement subfloor?
I have seen other methods such as Dri-Core or Delta-FL also suggested. Ideally I would like to create channels so I could somewhat push water out should I ever have an issue. From concrete to carpet please advise me exactly what I need to do in-between.


texts:
The house I bought a couple years ago had a couple outlets in a small room in the basement that didn't work. Now I'm troubleshooting them. It's a finished basement so I can't tear down walls. There's a lot of troubleshooting already complete so I'll describe where I'm at now:

I'm at the first outlet in the circuit fed from my panel. With no power I have connected the hot and neutral wires at the outlet and tested for continuity: ok. I checked for resistance to ground: Infinite meaning ok. I've checked for shorts by testing the individual wires to ground: all ok. The breaker is fine. I even swapped breakers and not change. Symptoms: With open wires at the outlet (bare, not attached to anything), I read 120V between neutral and hot; I read ~60V between Hot and ground; I read ~60V between neutral and ground. I'm aware of ghost voltage and I have a Fluke meter set in LoZ mode. Measuring Hot to ground give me only a ~2.5V differential when I would expect to see ~120 Volts.

I was concerned about a borrowed neutral in the basement. The house was built in 1997. The power comes in from an underground feed from the city. The basement was finished a few years after that. I hooked my meter up to hot at the outlet location (measuring 60 volts) and proceeded to turn off and on all lights in the basement: no change. Then I had the wife systematically kill the power to EVERY breaker in the house one by one while I monitored for a change in the voltage on the goofy circuit: No change. Then I had her turn off every breaker except this one particular one. There is no power going to anything in the house except this one outlet (wires pulled off for measuring) now. No change: 60V hot to ground, 60V neutral to ground and 120Volt hot to neutral. I cannot see, or logically reason that there is anything between this outlet and the panel. No other circuits in the house are affected by this breaker, and with every single wire on the rest of the circuit disconnected, there is no power anywhere else. I'm at a loss. It's like there's something back feeding on the ground wire because I've pulled the hot and neutral wires off in the panel and I get no volts. So I pulled a outlet off a separate circuit on the main floor: Everything is normal.

My electrician friend over FaceTime suggested that I connect the ground and neutral wire at the outlet. It does make the problem go away, but I'm concerned that there is a potential that the ground wire while connected to neutral at the outlet creates a hazard if something were to short. And this is where the limit of my electrical knowledge leaves me. Thanks for reading and please help.


texts: Help reconnecting light to existing ceiling box wiring

texts:
I had to replace an improperly used plastic ceiling box with a metal box to correctly ground existing old armored cable. I thought I took a picture of the box before but I don't have it so I'm having trouble reconnecting the light. Off of this box are:

Single pole switch for overhead bedroom light
Two 3 way switches for bedroom closet and hallway light (both go on and off at same time)

With how it is currently wired, the single pole switch/light are working and the closet light is working with the 3 way switches. I am not sure how to reconnect the hallway light so that it also goes on/off with the closet light and 3 way.
Thanks in advance.
This is where the hallway fixture goes:

On the left is the bedroom overhead light. On the right is the 3 way for the hallway light and closet light (these are supposed to come on at the same time):

The other 3 way for the hallway and closet light:


texts: PVC Pipe for sprinkler system broken in multiple places

texts:
Roughly 2 years ago I posted this question: Need Sprinkler Cracked PVC Pipe Repair Suggestions
There was a lot of good suggestions, but now the issue has gotten much worse.
In the image below I'm going to attempt to paint a timeline in which we have attempted to fix our PVC piping breaking issues.
Mid-2017 (BREAK 1). We discovered a pipe broken near the corner of the wall. The way we fixed it was to cut the pipe and replace it. This solved the issue for 2 years.
Jun 2019-Week 1 (BREAK 2). There was a peanut sized crack on top of PVC pipe, in which our handy man decided to drill a hole bigger than the crack and place an attachment on top and create a new sprinkler head instead of cutting the pvc pipe. Because the communication cable ran along the bottom of the pipe (stupid). After that was fixed, we tested our system, and discovered another break. Ironically enough the handyman still managed to cut the communicate cable.
Jun 2019-Week 3 (BREAK 3). After fixing break 2, we noticed the pipe was also broken at Break 3. We fixed this issue, by cutting from break 3 to break 2 and installing a flexible hose and glued it. Again we re-tested our system and discovered a water flowing under all the soil near "break 4", flowing into the ditch seen around BREAK 2.
July 2019 - Week 1 (BREAK 4?). This is where I need people's advice. I don't know where break 4 is, and i'm not interested in looking, because that 50 foot tall tree won't stop growing, and will continue to cause problems.
Here is a full screen image

The big problem is the area where this tree is located. As you can see in this hand drawn image. The first image (real) shows top part of this hand drawn diagram. The line in the middle separates the 2 areas, where the roots are above the ground and where the grass starts below the line. I'm assuming the PVC pipe runs all the way down (somehow) to the rest of the sprinkler heads (which are large black dots).
I need to rerun this PVC pipe in a different way from the water source seen on the upper left, that avoids the top tree all together. But how is the question. That ditch you see near break 2 took almost 2 full days to cut the tree trunks in order to finally see the pipe. When break 1 occurred in 2017, that also took a good 3 or 4 days to finally reveal the break.
Any suggestions?


texts: How do I clean paint and glue from bluestone?

texts: I have Bluestone interior floors in new construction. Ready to finish but slight paint overspray and several glue spots. Is there a problem using a diluted muriatic acid to clean?


texts: What is the difference between the various types of particle boards?

texts:
I hear these terms being used interchangeably in casual conversation and I'm not sure whether they are equivalent, trademarks or just different products:

Pressed wood
Particle board
OSB
MDF
Masonite

I also often hear "presswood", but I think it's a language issue and a deformation of "pressed wood", as a cursory search doesn't reveal anything.


texts: What can I do about no VOC paint that stinks after it has dried?

texts: We just painted with brand new, but gone-bad NO VOC paint (Dunn Edwards in a dark teal). It went on smelling like good paint but when it dried it has a chemical sour smell mixed with vomit and dead animal. We live in the desert (Sedona) so humidity is not an issue.  Headaches and nausea are not fun. We sealed all offending walls with 2 coats of sealer primer (BIN Advanced) and another top coat of paint, as suggested by paint company, and it did not fix the smelly problem.  Then we got desperate. We have burned two boxes of nag champa incense, as well as cinnamon candles for days. We have washed the walls down with backing soda.... vinegar.... and natures miracle. Everything we do alters the smell, but does not clear it up.  Other rooms we painted with lighter tan color of same paint are perfect.  The windows have been open for days with exhaust fans going, and we are being held prisoner in the only warm room that doesn't stink. Once the room warms up the smell comes back.   After reading dozens of blogs on this issue and hearing over and over that paint company's do not own up to having a fix to this bad no-VOC paint issue, it looks like we may to have to tear down dry wall!   HELP .... Any suggestions out there would be helpful before I rip my home apart.


texts: When did color-coding NM-B cable become standard in the US?

texts:
Wandering through the electrical aisle of my local big-box store, I see that it is now basically impossible to buy NM-B cable that doesn't adhere to this color coding:

14 AWG = white jacket
12 AWG = yellow jacket
10 AWG = orange jacket

I understand the color coding, and it makes a lot of sense (I've got a mixture of 12 & 14AWG NM-B in my house and I really wish it was that easy to identify which was which when looking in a box). My question is two-fold:

When did this become standard (in the US)?
Is it an NEC requirement, or is it just a "standard" or "new tradition"?


texts:
With the lower panel door switch closed, the combustion air inducer comes on.  It runs for a little while and then shuts down.  Nothing happens in the meantime.  The system was working fine until this morning and now it is not.  Any help will be most appreciated.

The blower motor or the gas never turns on.  I do not see the igniter turning hot either.


texts:
I have an outdoor light controlled by a pair of 3-way switches, A and B. The switch B is much closer to the light.

Here are the behaviors I observe.

During the day:
A: Up     B: Up or Down    Light:ON
A: Down   B: Up            Light:ON
A: Down   B: Down          Light:OFF

During the night:          Light:ON (regardless)

Also, believe that the light comes on at a certain hour. So it must be on a timer and not on a light sensor. However, I cannot locate the timer.

The wiring on switch B is attached.

I'm assuming I'm correct that the timer is involved. However, I still cannot make sense of the wiring and so I cannot figure out how to change it to make the three-way switches act normally during the day.

UPDATE: I've disconnected the wires and here's what discovered. The power comes via one of the 14/3 wires. The black is always hot. The red is hot during a few hours of the night (but not dusk to dawn. More like 1am-4am). Does this confirm that there's a timer somewhere along the way? What could it possibly look like?

UPDATE: Mystery solved:


texts: Understanding how to read bevel cuts in woodworking plan?

texts:
I'm new to woodworking and I have started a project that requires some bevel cuts. I'm having difficulty understanding and visualizing what it means to make cuts like "10 degrees off square, short point to long point" or something like, "short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square" or "10 degree angle, longest point measurement."

What does it mean to cut X degrees off square? Or, cutting something to short point to long point?


texts: Why does the breaker trip on my new low-power lighting circuit?

texts:
I added 10 recessed lights in the kitchen (adding approximately 50 feet of wire), which draw 14 watts each (total 140 watts).

A two way switch controls 4 lights, another two way switch controls another 4 lights.  The remaining two lights have their own switches.

There are another 7 lights on the same circuit (in the garage, deck, laundry room, etc.) and all of them use LEDs.

The total load shouldn’t be more than 500 watts. All these lights on a 15 amp breaker.

The issue is that when I switch on one of the foursome lights, the breaker trips.

What could be the problem?  Overloaded circuit?

There are only 1 Black, 1 White and 1 ground where I connected one of the foursome lights. The other connection has 2 red, 2 black, 2 white and 2 ground. I might have connected there incorrectly.


texts: Connecting a thermostat to air handler and cast iron boiler

texts:
I have a 4 zone system. I want to put 4 new thermostats on the system. I wish I looked at the wires before I removed them all! So dumb. Anyway..

There is an air handler in the attic.
A compressor outside.
A cast iron oil boiler for the 4 loop radiant baseboards.

Would these 2 statements be correct?

Each thermostat will have 2 (18-5) wires coming out of it. One of the wires will lead up to the air handler and one of the wires will lead to the valve that opens for hot water.

Each thermostat will need a "power" wire from either the air handler or the boiler.

Thank you!


texts:
We have both a range hood and an exhaust fan in our kitchen.

I'm not really sure that the range hood actually exhausts outside the house, as there's not much room (a couple inches) behind the cabinetry to run a duct upwards. As you might be able to tell, we have a rancher with gabled ceilings and no attic.

The exhaust fan in our ceiling is old, slow to start, and cranky.

Is it worth replacing the ceiling fan with something better to help improve the airflow and reduce cooling costs? What should I replace it with?

Should I remove the range hood if it isn't properly ducted? Do I need to worry about a hood if the exhaust fan us on directly overhead?


texts:
I want to attach a second layer of drywall to old, partly damaged and crumbling drywall, with construction adhesive. I cannot use screws only because my patch's edges do not fall on studs (the patch will be around 60" x 48" in size).

This new double-layered wall will have to support heavy tiles.

Is gluing an acceptable method to build double-layered drywall wall? Is generic construction adhesive (liquid nails) an acceptable glue for that?

I don't want to replace old drywall because in order to do it properly I'll have to cut a huge hole in a wall that has a vapour barrier and patching it properly afterwards will be very tricky.

More detail: the middle of the area in question is crumbling due to water damage (that has been dealt with, e.g. it should not happen again). However, around it is 10-20" of good drywall, which I hoped I would be able to glue a new patch of drywall to.

My tiles are around 30kg (66lbs) in total weight, and a solid drywall can support such weight in dry area.


texts:
I recently purchased a Champion portable 5500W generator for use with my home's existing transfer switch. It has the familiar 30A L14-30R circular twist lock connector on it, that I use with a 40ft male->female power cord. Recently when I had my local electrician over, he plugged it in for me, we test fired it and it worked well.

But now that I'm going to be using it on my own, I'm obsessed about safety, particularly the steps you take to connect it to the house. This is what the electrician did:

Plug female end of cord into power inlet box on house
Start generator, and let it come up to speed
Plug male end into generator
Go to transfer switch - make sure all branch breakers being fed by transfer switch are off (this will prevent sudden loads when moving mains to GEN position)
Flip main breakers, one at a time, to GEN position, from LINE
Flip branch breakers being fed by transfer switch, one at a time, to ON position

My concern really lies with steps 1-3, as there seems to be a lot of conflicting information on the net. My generator manual clearly states NOT to start the generator with loads connected. However, there is a warning in the box for the power cord that I got to connect the cord BEFORE starting the generator! So this information seems contradictory...

There is also a YouTube video here with a guy plugging in the cord BEFORE he starts the generator: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_6ZpziBF-4

I'm actually starting to think either way may be OK, as long as the transfer switch mains are in the LINE position, as that will cut power off from the inlet box, right? So there would be no chance of overloading the genny at startup.

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. There is so much misinformation out there it's ridiculous.


texts: I have a top loading washing machine in which I use liquid detergent. It has a receptacle on the inner side of the lid for different kinds of detergents (pre-wash, wash, rinsing agent) which would then be released when appropriate. But then I noticed that both the pre-wash and wash containers get dumped out onto the drum as I close the lid. Is this by design? Why are then separate containers?


texts: Circuit breaker keeps popping, how do I troubleshoot?

texts:
The 20 amp breaker to my garage keeps popping.  On that circuit is one outdoor floodlight fixture, one outlet receptacle (with nothing plugged into it), and two light fixtures with 60 watt incandescent bulbs (lights are switched off).  I followed the wiring in the garage and found no integrity issues from nails, chipmunks, etc.  I took pictures of the wiring in the junction boxes because I can't figure out what the installer was doing.  Please help me clean this up and figure out what goes to where and what best way to troubleshoot the circuit breaker popping.

![enter image description here][2]


texts: I am trying to add a seperate switch to an existing 3 way circuit

texts: I currently have a 3-way circuit (2 switches) that control 4 recessed lights and the light over the kitchen island.  I would like to be able to "split" the recessed lights from the island lights.  Meaning I would like an additional switch to turn on / off the island light separately from the recessed lights.  can that be done with a wireless switch or any products like the remote control unit on a ceiling fan? Any other ideas that do not require cabling/rewiring will all be appreciated


texts: GFCI Circuit begins and ends with GFCI receptacles

texts:
I've bought a home with a circuit that begins with a GFCI in the breaker box, runs thru a bedroom, and ends with several GFCI outlets on the patio, that trips randomly.

Suspecting a moisture issue at the patio, I'm thinking of replacing those GFCI's on the patio with just regular (weather-resistant) receptacles to eliminate the moisture problem...keeping the one GFCI at the start of the circuit..the breaker box.

Would this be a safe move?


texts: Is there a way to put Taco zone valves in a closed position?

texts:
The Amtrol expansion tank on my boiler needs to be replaced but the installers did not include an isolation ball valve.  I can close the returns, but the water will still drain down from the upper floors of the house unless I can close the zone valves. The zone valves can be put in the "always open" position by pushing the latch towards the pipe, but is there a way to put the zone valves into a forced-closed position? If the system electrical is turned off when the thermostat is not calling for heat, will the valves be, and remain, in the closed state?

P.S. Here are pics of one that was replaced with a new one.  It is not really designed to be user-serviceable. The outer shell is riveted in place. I do not see a hefty spring.


texts:
Cooling stopped working on my second floor zone, and cold air was blowing out of return air vent.
I turned off the power to HVAC , it didn't work.
When I turned off the thermostat of my second floor zone and turned it on after an hour, to my surprise the issue was gone,
cooling started working in my second zone.
I am really curious to know how  turning off the thermostat fixed the issue.
Hopefully these images helps to understand the issue


texts: Are dark stains that show up when wet embedded mold?

texts:
Recently I fixed a leak which was causing moisture related issues (obviously). Upon doing some clean up of the area before reinstalling drywall, i noticed some dark spots, likely mold, on the wood.

I have applied several rounds of treatment to the wood including, soap and water, bleach with water, baking soda and vinegar, and some light sanding. Each time wiping down and thoroughly dried the affected areas.

The wood when dry shows no obvious signs of mold, but when spraying down the wood one last time with a bleach and water solution for peace of mind, darker spots were revealed which were not visible when dry.

Could this be embedded mold and is additional sanding/treatment necessary? Or considering now that the leak/source of moisture is now no longer present am I safe to install new drywall?


texts: Should we use A\C in the unused second story of our home?

texts: We don't use the second story of our home. Is it better to shut off the air conditioning completely upstairs to save money, or keep it set but at a higher temperature, such as 78-80 °F?


texts: Brief higher voltage on one leg lower on other every sixty seconds or so

texts:
Could this be caused by a electrical utility meter resetting on a poor neutral meter box connection?

About once every sixty seconds or so I'll get 5 more volts on one side and about 8 volts less on the other. It just keeps happening over and over that you could almost set your watch to this. Ill get stable current well maybe within two or three volts, then for three seconds this condition will occur then go back to stable current again. Over and over. I don't have a meter capable of checking distribution line voltage so I cannot check if a substation issue like with a protective relay or something but I'm  getting this condition on the secondary side and its doing it on more than one meter in a bank of meters. Linemen have changed out the pole transformer, and done a bit of neutral line work and this condition still persists.


texts: Toggle switch replacement for wet/dry vacuum

texts:
I have a 10A 250V AC 15A 125V AC collings toggle switch for a shop vac that is broken and discontinued from an older model Rigid vacuum (which works fine but is discontinued). I found  a 8A 250v AC 16A 125v AC switch as replacement.

My shop vac is discontinued but the replacement switch works on newer Rigid vacuums.

Does this seem like it will work?

Thanks


texts: Are there different tiers (good/better/best) of door hardware?

texts:
We have a new house (3 yrs old), and have been having problems with the door knobs all coming loose and sliding around. I thought it was something we were doing, but talked to a couple of neighbors, and they are all having similar problems. I figured this was another issue with “builder grade” hardware, but looking at the different manufacturers, I don’t see any sort of tiers. It looks like they mostly differentiate based on style.

Sine I’ve never seen this in any other house I’ve lived in, I assume there are better sets out there, but I’m not sure what to look for.

Any ideas for better hardware?


texts: Is is appropriate to negotiate price with contractor

texts:
I have a problem with my roof that I'm not equipped or interested in fixing myself.  I found an appropriate contractor who sent a contract with a price that I feel is to high.

I would like to ask the contractor to do the job for a lesser amount.

My question is, is it acceptable and productive to negotiate these prices or am I wasting my time?


texts: Is there a proper amount of chainsaw tension

texts:
Is there a proper amount of tension I should keep the chain on my chainsaw?

I currently like to have it more loose than tight.

Thnx


texts: How do I remove these escutcheons from my door?

texts:
I have a G-U multi-point door lock. The inside escutcheon with handle and thumb turn are pictured below. I am trying to figure out what type of lock cylinder I have inside of the door, but I can't see how I can easily remove the escutcheon / back plate on either side of the door.

Removing the handle from each side is easy. I do not see how to remove either the key turn (other side, outside) or the thumb turn (inside). The escutcheon has a small hole at the top (see below) where a flathead screwdriver will fit for prying, but the piece feels strongly attached to the door and I am afraid I will break it.

What am I missing?


texts: Foundation drainage: try interior first and then exterior?

texts:
My wife and I are closing on a home.

During the initial walkthroughs of the basement, it was clear that there was a moisture problem there, but I don't think it was clear to either of us how severe it was until the inspection.

Now it's not like water is pouring or puddling in the basement, but upon closer inspection outside of the house, there were very clear grading issues which were likely caused by the house settling over time.

The basement has a musty smell and I'm primarily worried about air quality issues first and foremost, usability of the space down the line as a secondary concern.

So I've been researching methods of dealing with this now and I'm at an impasse as I need to figure out how to negotiate this added cost of remediation with the seller.

The house already has an interior perimeter drain going to a sump, but there really isn't a "flow" of water per se, but rather the walls are presenting a moist condition and being further exacerbated by the use of fiberglass insulation in direct contact with the cement block wall.

For now, my plan on the interior is to demo the existing walls to get a better idea of the efficacy of any remediation and to make sure that the issue is fixed, but the question is what is the most pragmatic and cost effective manner to go about this?

From my research, it seems that addressing the issue from the outside with:

Trench and drainage around the footing
Elastomeric coating
Dimple mat
Backfill with crushed stone
Fix exterior grading and drainage

Will be the most effective solution, but also the most expensive.

The house has a perimeter of approximately 130 linear feet with one side under an attached garage, but otherwise, the three other sides are easily accessible.  The front has a set of steps, the right has an AC unit, and the rear has a set of steps.

I wonder in that case, if exterior water proofing would be less effective if one of the walls is left untreated?  My estimate is that this approach will probably cost $12k-15k based on my research.

My thinking is that a more pragmatic approach might be to first go with a less costly approach of:

Install new, larger interior drainage around the perimeter
Install underground "roof"
Fix exterior grading and drainage

And then observe the conditions over period of a year before continuing with more costly remediation such a trenching the exterior.  My guess is that this would cost about $3k-5k.  But is this just money down the drain?  Would it be better to just bite the bullet and invest that money into an exterior excavation?

I do plan to contact local professionals to get a better idea, but I'm currently in the education phase to better understand solutions and of course, I don't currently own the property yet :)

Any input and experience would be much appreciated!


texts:
The home we have just brought has no vents in its tiled roof; therefore it is getting a lot of condensation in the loft.

So how do I fit vents?

Do the vent you fix from the inside (rather than putting in venting tiles) work well enough?


texts: Power Interruption/Outage: Outlets, Basement, Stove/Oven and Furnace

texts:
I just moved into a new house and found this problem:

As long as I plugged a fan in one of outlets in my dining room, after 20 to 40 minutes the fan stops.
Or,
when I plugged my receiver (260W) connecting to 2 speakers in one of these outlets, the power was immediately turned off.
All other outlets in dining room and kitchen, basement, furnace (electrical) and ranges were out of power (after 1).
I checked the circuit breakers and none of them was tripped. I tried to reset the GFCI outlet controlling the dining room outlets and the power didn’t come back.
After 10 to 40 minutes, the power came back automatically. Or, if I turned the range (stove) on, the power came back.
A few times, the outlets in dining room and kitchen, basement, furnace and ranges were unpowered by themselves. After a while (10 to 40 minutes) the power to them came back.
I have moved in for 4 weeks and the electricity bill is $30.48.

Note: I haven’t used the furnace (not so cold). I just checked and the furnace had no power. The refrigerator and lights are fine.

I hired an electrician, but I couldn’t reproduce the above problem when he came.

I live in New Jersey.


texts: Are there any advantages to using higher priced sealers?

texts:
I want to use a water based sealer on my pavers to bring out the color and also for some resistance against dirt and fading.  I went to the store and saw sealers varying in price from about $11 per gallon for Thompson's water seal to about $24 for a Behr brand low luster to sealer to over $30 for a natural stone and brick name-brand sealer.

Is there really much difference in quality and longevity to justify the higher prices of the mid and name-brand sealers?


texts: Is there an alternative and less toxic way to clean an oven than using oven spray?

texts:
I have drippings that have caked on to the botton surface of my oven. Now, every time we use the oven, they start to smoke and set off the smoke detector.

What are some natural ways to clean the oven? There's probably some major scrubbing in my future.  :)


texts:
What are the (best matching) RAL codes of "de Stijl" many people know from Mondriaan?

I might have a few colors for now (but might be incorrect). Based on

+--------+------+
| Color  | RAL  |
+--------+------+
| white  | 9010 |
| black  | ?    |
| blue   | 5010 |
| yellow | 1003 |
| red    | ?    |
+--------+------+

I plan on making something like this:


texts: Framing an appliance opening in a load bearing wall?

texts:
I bought a fridge that is much too deep (first time buying a new house/new appliances) and unfortunately the appliance place does not take exchanges or returns. I am considering recessing the fridge into the wall and framing a door would be practically what I would need to do. Everything is already finished including the cabinets that surround the fridge opening and I am hoping to not have to do anything too destructive. Working around/behind the cabinets would be ideal.

I've looked into putting door openings into load bearing walls and read about king studs/jack studs and their construction but am inexperienced in framing. I've also seen the charts on header size but just want to double check my numbers.

The fridge space is on the 1st floor of a 2 story home with a basement. The fridge would sit against an inner wall. The wall in question is framed by 2x6s and is one side of a set of stairs going to the second floor. The fridge is 36" wide. So if I am trying to figure out what I need to work with in terms of lumber and going of a building width of 36ft, I would need 2 2x8s for the header and 2 jack studs on each side of my span?

I understand I would also have to relocate the water line and outlet. Thanks in advance!


texts: Inconsistent damper control and ventilation control settings

texts:
While changing my dual-zone HVAC system's filters I noticed a lack of consistency in damper control and ventilation control settings. There are two of each type of control.
The first damper control has the red knob all the way to the right and the second damper control has it all the way to the left.
The first ventilation control is set to On (Optimized ventilation) and the second to Off (Remote Only)
I believe the first damper control and ventilation control correspond to the first floor, and the second damper control and ventilation control to the second.
I am concerned this could lead to an imbalance in workload distribution and attendant negative consequences.
Is this necessarily a problem?
Temperatures are currently in the high 90s where I live. The first level thermostat is set to 75 and the second level thermostat to 76.


texts:
Our kitchen has an opening that used to have a bulky wood frame/shelves. We have removed that and now evaluating how best to repair the wall so it could be evenly painted and are thinking of adding a nice solid piece of varnished wood at the bottom.

The sides have a gap between the wall and the vertical opening. It looks quite large, too much to simply plaster over as it would probably just go and fall in.

What would be the best way to fix this? Would drywall tape and then plaster be enough? If I plaster, do I need anything special for plaster? I usually use the quick dry stuff to repair holes and have never done one that big.

Also, the yellow stuff seems to be only plaster, should I use what's there and add plaster to even it out/sand or am I better breaking what's there and starting over? I am not sure why there's a metal corner on one side and not the other.


texts:
Pictures are coming after I find new batteries for my mouse.

My basement has two vertical drain pipes. Drain pipe number one comes down directly from my bathroom sink. Near the basement ceiling, a horizontal drain pipe ties into it from my 2 kitchen sink drains. Both of those pipes are 2" in diameter. Near the floor, the drain from my utility sink ties into the same drain pipe. That pipe is 1 1/4". The kitchen sink horizontal run is about 6', the utility sink horizontal run is less than a foot but the grade is insufficient among other issues.

Drain pipe number two is the soil stack. The drain from the bathtub is 2" in diameter and runs just under 6' before tying into the 4" drain from the toilet, which in turn ties in to the 4" vertical drain.

I presume, but have not confirmed, that the sink drain pipe vents by tying into the soil stack in the bathroom wall, as there is only one vent pipe in the attic.

I'm looking to replace the bathtub drum trap with a p-trap, but I have concerns about the venting of this set up. As I understand it, the kitchen sink amd utility sink are wet vented through the bathroom sink. But is it adequate that the tub drain connects into the toilet drain before it reaches the soil stack? Or does the tub drain need to be vented before it ties into the toilet drain?


texts: Strategy to free up slot for a 50 amp 240 volt circuit

texts:
My first ever post here. Can someone explain to me the best strategy for freeing up a pole/slot so that I can install a two-pole 50 amp 240 volt circuit on this panel? I have a free slot at the bottom left.

I want to use a tandem circuit, but I'm not sure which existing circuits would be ok to swap out. My panel is "twinable" (see panel label sticker below)

If I've understood correctly, I can't use a tandem circuit to consolidate the two bottom left circuits because they are AFCI.

Above those two AFCI circuits I have 3 circuits that I think might be candidates for combining into a tandem circuit. Can someone tell me if those types of circuits are eligible for being replaced by a tandem? If so, would it be better to tandem the 20/20 and shift the three below it upwards? Or would it be better to tandem the 15/20 and move the two AFCI circuits upwards? One final note: of these 3 circuits, the top-most 20 amp circuit is labeled "Bath GFCI", so I'm not sure if that can be put on a tandem circuit.

Final note: the new 50A 240V circuit will be used to power a NEMA 14-50 plug that I'm going to install in the wall below the panel. It will be used to charge an electric vehicle (Tesla Model 3).

Thank you!


texts: Use of 20 Amp Breaker and 12/2 Cable for Circuit Containing 15 Amp Duplex Receptacles

texts:
What is the rationale behind using a 20 amp circuit breaker with 12/2 cable for a circuit that only contains 15 amp duplex receptacles? I understand the rationale behind using 12/2 cable instead of 14/2 cable, but do not understand the rationale behind using the 20 amp circuit breaker instead of a 15 amp circuit breaker. Without understanding the rationale, I would assume it would be prudent to either:

Replace the 20 amp circuit breaker with a 15 amp circuit breaker.
Replace the 15 amp duplex receptacles with 20 amp duplex receptacles.

References to the National Electric Code would be appreciated.

Edit:

I did not intended to ask if it was permissible to use a 20 amp circuit breaker.  Instead, I meant to ask "What benefit does the 20 amp circuit breaker provide if there are only 15 amp duplex receptacles?"


texts: For planning interior walls, should I get an architect or interior designer or someone else?

texts:
I am thinking of adding interior walls to divide up a large space (a walk-up basement).  But I am clueless regarding building codes and I don't know where I can and cannot put walls.

I've read a lot about how architects are important for new home design and major projects, but for this early planning stage I'm thinking an architect would be overkill, since this is not major construction, right?

So what professional help should I get in this regard?  Someone from the city?  An interior designer?


texts: Water dripping out of small pvc pipe in soffit of house

texts:
Yesterday was an extremely hot day here in SoCal with temperatures around 100F.
The AC unit had been turned off during the daytime and at nighttime we turned it on to cool down the house.

A few hours later I noticed water dripping down from the soffit right above the upstairs bedroom window on the front side of the house (two story apartment). I don't remember seeing that happen before so I took a closer look and pointed a flashlight at the window where the water was coming from. I noticed a little pvc pipe sticking out of the soffit and that's where the water was dripping out of.

I did some Googling and found some info saying that it could be the secondary or emergency drain of the AC unit, which is where the condensed water goes to when the main drain is clogged. It also said that it's usually in an obvious location so you notice when there's something wrong.
I also saw some contrary info saying that it's normal for small amounts of water to come out but that seems to be quite subjective to me.

I turned off the AC after finding out about this, because I don't want any water damage inside of the house. This morning I turned it back on to see if more water will come out, but so far no water.

The actual AC unit is outside on the other side of the house in the back patio.

I've made an appointment with an HVAC company to check this out, but because of the heatwave HVAC companies are completely booked up and I'm going to have to wait for two weeks.

I'm posting here because I would like to find out if anyone can confirm that this is indeed the emergency drain and if it's still safe to use the AC without risking water damage. Could the dripping be caused by the extreme temperatures yesterday while the AC unit had been turned off during the daytime?

Two weeks with no AC is a long time with temperatures like this, so hopefully someone can give me some insight.

This is an image of the pvc pipe:


texts: What should the ratio of crushed rock and sand for a paver patio be?

texts:
In effort to find a good answer I've been all over the internet looking for an answer to exactly how thick of a layer of crushed rock and how thick of a layer of sand to use for a patio. Or at the very least what the ratio should be.

The difference in answers is enough for me to not be able to make a good choice. Not wanting to have it too thin is my main goal. Seeing as I've already moved 1600 (5 to 8 lb ea), 4"x4"x8") bricks by hand to where the patio is going to be, I'm not really all that worried about moving a ton or so of crushed rock. What's a little more of a workout right? I'm also not trying to skimp. If I need 4 inches of crushed rock, then I'm doing it.

Also because I'm a big user of the SE network, I figured where better to help find an answer to my question. My goal, do it right the first time.


texts: Can an outlet for a dishwasher be located below the floor?

texts:
I am not a handy person, so I had family members install a new dishwasher. When they finished, I noticed that this was how the electrical was installed. The dishwasher was plugged into a new outlet installed in the garage level below it. The plug runs through a hole in the kitchen subfloor behind the dishwasher and into the garage. I assume this is not to code, but I figured I'd ask. I want to make sure it's done right.

If not acceptable, is the solution to bring the outlet to beneath the sink next to the dishwasher and do it that way?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Ceiling fan replacement motor amperage difference, is it a problem?

texts:
I have a fan in my bathroom, but it appears to be dead. I took the fan apart, the "fan" is a motor piece which has a standard (US) two prong plug that you just plug into the fan outlet. The outlet works fine, I plugged a wall lamp into and it's ok.

I'm trying to get a replacement motor piece now, the unit has the following written on it:

Broan NuTone LLC
99080351
SP-61K20
120V/60Hz 0.9A

There are some other numbers on it that just look like serial numbers, I did a search for "SP-61K20", and there are some matching results. The power section is a little different though, they read:

120V/60Hz 1.2A

Is there amperage difference a problem? I figured since it's plugging into a standard outlet it shouldn't matter, but wanted to check.

Thanks


texts:
A couple weeks ago, the shower pressure we have dropped. I didn't notice it at first — it wasn't a major change — but after my spouse pointed it out, it's definitely lower than it was.

I've tried fixing several of the common problems.

I made sure the shower head and hand-held hose were clean and not blocked.
I replaced the pressure-balancing valve with a new one, and made sure the inlets/outlets were clean.
I replaced the bathtub diverter.
I tried cleaning out (with a drain snake) the supply lines, but the turns were too tight to get much of anywhere. Nothing was obviously dirty.
I tried pouring vinegar into the shower pipe while plugging the tub diverter, but I only left it for an hour or so — is that worth trying again overnight?

I've tested the water pressure, and found that the pressure coming to the house is about 60 psi (right in line with what the city provides) and the pressure coming out of the shower spigot is about 5-10 psi lower than that. (That sounds normal?)

The pressure does not seem to be appreciably different with hot or cold water.

I've compared the flow rate (by timing filling an ice cream bucket) from the shower spigot — without the head or hose attached — and the tub spigot. The shower spigot took several more seconds to fill the bucket on repeated measurements.

I haven't noticed any other changes in the water supply in the house — but I suppose that the change was small enough that perhaps we only notice in the shower?

I, unfortunately, do not have any measurements for either pressure or flow rate from before we noticed the problem, so it's a bit hard to tell what is "normal" and what, exactly, has changed.

My next idea is to try back-flush the shower by:

Keeping the supply valve off.
Connecting a water supply to the shower spigot.
Letting water flow from the shower spigot down to the tub spigot, hoping that something might wash out.

Any other ideas?


texts: Need to Remove and Replace a Hook that is in Concrete

texts: I have a metal hook that has been put into hole in a brick wall using concrete.  I am wanting to remove it as a piece of the hook snapped off.  What is the easiest way to remove this hook and replace? Or am I better off contracting this project out? Who would you typically hire to do this kind of work? What would it run?  I do have access to a decent amount of power tools and have attached a picture for reference.


texts: I’m trying to add a smart thermostat and it seems I can’t find a C wire. I need to know where to tap in if I need to. It looks like I have extra wires on my thermostat wire going into the house.


texts: How to seal sump pit with removable cover

texts:
Just moved into a new house and bought new sump pump with battery backup.

The old pit liner is about 4" below floor level and the pit is 16" wide. the top is a mess as you can see from pix.

I want a rim/dome that seals to the concrete and a removable lid. Only needs one pipe coming out (y for backup and main are in pit (zoeller propack)

My problem is, the out diameter of the entire assembly cannot be more than 20 inches because of two stud walls.

Attached are a few pix (with the old pump still installed.

Any suggestions/recommended products?

Thanks

Mark


texts: Sub Panel grounding questions... wire size, how-to's

texts:
So, I just found out on my first question that I am gonna need a 4th (ground wire) out to my sub panel. Was told by my buddy I only needed three, but evidently that is incorrect. So here goes.

panel is 100 amps currently have 3 - 4/0 wires running out to it.

1 - Sub panel is 230 ft away. what size ground wire do i need?

2 - So, the neutral and ground wires are hooked up to separate bars in the sub panel (unlike the main house panel), but where do the neutral and ground wires going back to the main panel hook up? if they both hook up to the neutral/ground bars in the main panel then what exactly is the purpose of having two wires going back instead of one?

3 - with the addition of the ground wire going back to the main panel, do I still need to have a ground stake outside the shop at the sub panel.

Thanks in advance. You guys are great!


texts: How to wire a ceiling light with 2 wires to ceiling with 3 wires?

texts: Our ceiling has three wires...one white, one black, and one green.  The new light fixture we bought only has a white and one black wire.  What should I do with the green wire in the ceiling?


texts: Is it OK for dishwasher waste to be connected lower than sink trap elbow?

texts:
We have a new-build house with an integrated dishwasher that was already fitted when we moved in. It's about 4 months old, and it recently stopped draining.
The engineer found that the waste pipe was clogged with fat. I was surprised, since I don't put fat-coated dishes in the dishwasher; although I do, sometimes, empty small amounts of still-liquid fat down the sink (naughty, I know - but it's not much, honest!). So the engineer pointed out that the dishwasher waste is plumbed in below the level of the exit pipe from the sink trap, so it will be sitting in the trapped sink waste-water, and any fat layer could enter and clog the dishwasher waste pipe.
I've attached a picture of the pipe arrangement below. My question is - is this a sensible arrangement for the waste pipes (and I'll just have to be more careful with fats), or is it a mistake to have fitted them like this (so I can get the builders to fix it)?


texts: Toilet continually slowly drains days after I clear it

texts:
I have a toilet i replaced in a downstairs bathroom that no one uses (no one lives downstairs and rarely goes down there). This is a three floor house and just me and my brother.

It continually slowly flushes where it seems like there is a slow clog. I go down there with a plunger and clear it to where it flushes normally. We leave it alone a week and go to flush it and it slowly flushes ( water fills the bowl and slowly drains) after that. I have used a home depot snake and made sure the toilet is cleared as far as the snake goes (4ish feet maybe).

I've used the restroom after clearing it to make sure it works and it works fine after that for about a week.

I am at a loss for what I can try next and nothing seems to continually clog it.

What could possible be causing this? Googling hasn't given me any answers so maybe someone on here as experienced this?
House was built in 1968.