texts:
I am making a new bathroom with tub where I want the shower to have easy on/off system. I can't find such thing at homedepot or lowes.

Typically you have to dial the mixer starting from to warm and this is how you turn on/off as well.

But I want the mixer to be one settings and ability to shut off shower and turn it on back at the same level (very much like single lever faucet).

Is there anything like that available on market? Do I have to improvise otherwise?


texts: 4 prong dryer cord connected to a new 4 prong wall outlet, the old wall outlet was a 3 prong with only 3 wires. now the dryer won't heat but works

texts: i have a dryer that has a 4 prong cord and the wall outlet was a 3 prong. I replaced the wall outlet with a 4 prong and the dryer works but will not heat did I wire it wrong or what could be the problem,


texts: Will a make up air vent cause an issue in the winter?

texts: I recently installed a gas range and I will soon be installing a 300cfm range hood. Since I primarily burn wood in the winter for heat and I don't want any back-drafting issues, I am planning on installing a make up air vent in my cold air return ducting (I have a gas furnace I use as a back up for heat). However, I have a few concerns with the make up air. It gets cold where I live (think sub-zero) during the winter. Will the make up air bring noticeably cold air in through the vents? My concern is that it will make some of the rooms cold in the winter by counteracting the wood stove's heat.


texts:
I recently replaced the gearbox on my Whirlpool washing machine, a wtw5000dw1 due to some other obnoxious noises. The part number is W11035751 for reference.

Image of gearbox

There is play on the inner axel, maybe 1/8 of an inch moving through (not side to side). It's enough for the splutch assembly to not quite disengage which I believe is the cause of the sound.

Is the play usual? A manufacturing defect, a problem I caused installing?


texts: How to properly close a chimney hole in the basement

texts:
I recently removed the old unused wood stove in my basement. I now want to properly condemn the chimney.

I found this question which answers what to do with the chimney outside, but I am still unsure about this hole in my basement.

Behind the gray brick wall is the concrete wall of my basement. (The brick wall will be removed when I get to remodeling the basement). My first idea was to simply brick and mortar the hole, but is it a good way to do this? And should I remove the cast iron ring?


texts: Running romex around switch box that is not being terminated to said switch box

texts: Can I run a romex cable not going to a switch box around the switch box as long as it is stapled at both sides of switch box. From a vertical perspective


texts: Can I use indoor Romex in buried outdoor conduit?

texts:
Or should I use outdoor Romex? I heard that outdoor Romex doesn't need conduit as you are just supposed to bury it.

Edit:
Ack, I should have mentioned I have existing conduit that I want to pull the wire through. It currently has individual wires like user14408 has indicated and it looks shady. That's why I was thinking of replacing it with NM-B or UF cable.


texts: How to plumb and line, i.e., square, stud-frame walls if sheathing before raising

texts:
I'm starting to frame a small house.  For background, the foundation is 2x12 sills bolted to pilings, then 2x8 joists and 3/4" plywood.

My question is about squaring the walls if they are sheathed while flat before raising.  I'm reading Larry Haun's The Very Efficient Carpenter.  He spends a few pages on the importance of plumbing and lining walls after they are raised, before sheathing.

If I sheath before raising, how to square?  My first thought is to simply pull diagonal measurements and make them equal before sheathing.   Then sheathing, raising with jacks, and hoping the sheathed wall stays square.  Not sure how to line a sheathed wall, as it should be fairly rigid.

Any ideas?


texts: should I rework this 3/4" main water line into 1/2" branch circuits?

texts:
The main water line into my house is 3/4". It then sizes down to 1/2" for the distribution throughout the house. I am wondering about the transition from 3/4" to 1/2" - what is the right way for that to look?

Specifically, my 3/4" line transitions down to 1/2" in the straight pipe before it branches off to any of the other lines. This seems to me it would create a choke point that would undermine the benefit of 3/4". Would it be better to extend 3/4" line to meet some other circuits, or is the current setup typical?


texts: Furnace won’t stay running and when the blower motor runs it sounds like it is sucking up water

texts: Part red arrow is pointing to keeps filling up with water and when the motor/fan (blue arrow) runs it sounds like it sucks up water and then furnace stops heating.


texts: Why is the neutral conductor sometimes undersized in AC applications?

texts:
Why are electricians allowed to sometimes lower the size of the grounded (neutral) conductor?

If alternating current is bidirectional then wouldn't the neutral technically be an ungrounded (hot) conductor 60 times a second? (For 60hz)

I can get my head around multiwire branch circuits sharing a neutral and phases and what not, but this one stumps me.

Thanks for the quick reply.


texts: How to get rid of water stain on concrete?

texts: Hi there was a leaked pipe and the leaked water formed a trail on my concrete floor. Now the leak is fixed and I thought the water trail will just disappear when it dries up, but instead, it has moved and keeps on shifting to unaffected areas. Tried scrubbing it but its not on the surface. How do you get it out to restore the clean look of the concrete floor?


texts: How much can I hang from a blinds bracket?

texts:
Naughty question--I'm renting right now in a gorgeous, modern apartment and obviously can't hang anything on the walls. Buuuut.. I have this 65cm diameter mirror, approximately 4-5kg (something like that), which I would love to hang. I found a potential place and method to hang it, but I wanted to ask the experts here about it first.

I have two windows, about 150cm apart, both with blinds, and I figured that maybe if I thread some fishing line on the inside brackets for the blinds to connect to the upper corners of the mirror, I could potentially support it between the two blinds. From what I see from the brackets, they are screwed into the window frame using regular metal screws. I pulled on the brackets pretty hard to test how strong they are and they seem fairly steadfast, with no wriggling or looseness, though I wouldn't want to swing on them with my whole body weight or anything.

So, is this an idea that might work, or is it utterly dreadful and will end in catastrophe?


texts: Does a second layer of OSB over a rotted layer cause weight or rot concerns?

texts:
I had some dry rot and moisture issues in my attic because ventilation was not installed correctly 20 yrs ago when the roof was done. I am a new owner (10 months) and decided to replace my roof.

Yesterday the roofer called and said the entire North side of my cape cod needed new OSB.  I said ok and when I showed up 2 hours later the new OSB had been put down and they were starting to shingle. The roof was finished yesterday, when I got home from work I went into my attic and I noticed the OLD OSB was still there. They did not replace the OSB, they just went over it.

My concern is the old osb dry rot affecting the new osb.  Also, is there now a weight concern with the two layers of 1/2" OSB and shingles?


texts: Can I use a tandem 20A breaker for two kitchen circuits?

texts:
I am in the process of renovating the kitchen in my 100+ year old home, including cleaning up the electrical “situation” the previously owner attempted and bringing up to code.

NEC requires that there be two 20A dedicated small appliance circuits in the kitchen. My current breaker box, which was completely replaced by an licensed electrician, when we purchase the home last summer, has a tandem 20A-20A breaker labeled for the kitchen outlets.

Does a tandem breaker satisfy the code requirements as two circuits, given I run one set of outlets on one of the tandem breakers and the remaining on the other tandem breaker?

Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: Is the gauge of a circuit a function of the draw, or a function of the distance?

texts:
Goal I'm attempting to accomplish:  Create a blanket of globe lights that all hang at different heights such that the wires that the bulbs hang from are thin enough not to be too visible.

120V, 15A circuit.  Plug a patio light stringer into that circuit and you've reduced the size of the copper from 14/2 to 18/2.

Now, let's say you were able to convert each socket on the patio stringer into a bunch of tiny outlets.  Then from those little sockets, you plugged in another pair of wires leading to the bulb itself.  You've basically created another small circuit, where the 18/2 stringer becomes the "main" feeding the little sockets.

To each socket, you wire up a 7 Watt C9 E17 G50 globe light.

Question:  How small can the gauge be on the wire that leads from the "socket" to the bulb base to bring power to the bulb?


texts: Will increasing the temperature of my hot water cylinder's thermostat make my shower water supply last noticeably longer?

texts:
I have an unvented electric immersion heater cylinder which heats the hot water for my household. The capacity is 200L and the temperature is set to 55°C.

The water heater is hard-wired to run overnight during cheaper off-peak hours only. This works reasonably well for most of the time, but occasionally during particularly heavy usage we find we run out of hot water by the evening so we're unable to take hot showers etc. at night.

If I increase the cylinder temperature to (e.g.) 65°C, will this effectively provide us with more "concentrated" hot water which will take longer to run out, assuming we continue to shower at the same comfortable temperature (~43°C)?

If yes, by how much longer might the hot water last?


texts: SquidGee Dry System to prevent water seepage in basement?

texts:
One of the rooms in my basement has water seepage shown in the following:

Some work has been done to patch the honey combs. Due to limited budget, I can only do interior waterproofing. I plan on removing the lower section of the wood frame and apply the SquidDee Dry System like this tutorial. Is there a good chance of success to solve the water seepage problem with such approach and with my current basement water seepage issue?


texts: installing 100 amp sub panel with overgauge wire

texts: I want to provide power from my existing 200 amp service to an outbuilding 300 feet away that used to have metered 200 amp service. The account was closed and the transformer removed by the previous owner. The existing wire and poles look in good condition and I have a new panel in the outbuilding. Any issues I should be aware of and what gauge wire to connect the 25 foot run to these poles?   ty


texts:
I have some shelves I'm finishing using Minwax Wood Finish and MinWax Semi-Gloss poly.  On one side of one of the shelves, there are some small damage marks.

Long story short: Some masking tape got stuck to the shelf, and in the process of removing the tape, some of the stain got scratched off.  (This happened after the poly had already cured).

So now I have two areas on this ~8'x2' shelf that are like scrapes that removed some stain.  They are about a centimeter wide, and maybe 4-5" long.  The wood itself isn't scratched.

The marks are too noticeable to ignore, but I am loathe to sand the whole thing to zero and start over.  Especially given that the rest of the board looks great; I already have to do that to another board; and it feels like I started working on these shelves when VCR's were a daring new idea.

Do I have any touch up options?


texts: How do I fix small chips and scratches in a melamine table top?

texts: Below is what I am talking about. How do I fix these ?


texts: Repairing / refurbishing cedar swing set

texts:
I've got a swing set (pdf manual) that came with the house. Not sure exactly how old it is, but I'd guess it's 8-10 years old at this point, but could be 12 or 13. One side was severely sunken into the ground, and the lower "deck" was obviously popping up on that one side; the other sides were sunken as well, though not as much. The whole swing set was leaning a bit in one direction. Using a big pry bar, I was able to raise all sides of the swing set and put cinder blocks underneath, as shown below:

In the above image, the long side showing was approximately 8 inches lower than it is now - the 1x6 across the bottom was completely buried and the lower "deck" was essentially on the ground (or rather, on a giant fire ant mound it turns out). It is rotting away, as can be seen. A close up of the rotting:

I was thinking this would just be a rather simple job to raise the swing set and put some blocks underneath (far enough under the lower deck to keep them from being a danger while playing). But, given the rot, the swing set needs some refurbishment as well.

I got some composite decking to replace all 4 of the 1x6 along the bottom, thinking they'd be more rot-resistant than the cedar. I can get 1x cedar boards to replace some (or all) of the lower deck and the vertical pieces under the window. The stairs / ladder next to the slide will likely need to be rebuilt (combination of rot and weedwacker), as well as the ladder and diagonal supports on the other side of the swings (mostly weedwacker).

Given all of that though, I don't want to have to do this again in 5 or 10 years (or subject the next homeowner to it). The manual indicates to just install it on level soil, and that some sinking is expected, but this seems rather excessive. I worry about putting cinder blocks or concrete piers under the metal posts, due to potential injury, but think that would prevent everything from sinking so much.

Finally, given that the ground is not really level anymore, the green vertical posts aren't plumb either. It's certainly much more level than it was, but it's still not actually level.

What's the best way to go about refurbishing this swing set, while at the same time preventing these same issues from occurring again? Or if not preventing, than delaying? I'm in the Houston, TX area, which has mostly clay soil.


texts: How do I wire a 2 way toggle switch to a flourescent fixture?

texts: We are replacing a light that had a pull string on/off with a florescent fixture that we have put a toggle switch on.  Question is... How to wire it?  The toggle switch has 2 black wires and the wires that are coming in with the power for the light are black and white.  We also will be using a pig tail because the toggle switch wire is short.  The toggle switch is an off/on, not an on/off/on. This is going in a lower level of the home in West TN.


texts: Leaky drain, round 2: Trap joint won't stop leaking

texts:
I've just replaced the trap on a sink drain, and I can't get the replacement to stop leaking.  The leak is coming from the where the trap connects to the wall stub (circled in the picture).

There is no washer here; it looks like this is supposed to be a pressure fit with the outside nut forcing the sides of the conical end on the bottom piece against the sides of the top piece.  It's a great theory, but it doesn't seem to be working.

I've tried reeeeeeally tightening this joint, and while that seems to have reduced the leak it hasn't stopped it.  Since this isn't really a screw joint, there's no point in something like plumbers tape.

Any thoughts on how I can stop this from leaking?

]1


texts: what kind of radiator is this? Can I build a wood cover for it?

texts: There is a thin pipe coming from wall on the left that attaches to this metal filterlike coil thing.  This coil thing is this very dirty, is it a filter?  The dirty filter thing measures 1.5" thick, 8.5" deep and 34" wide from pipe entry to end of white metal cabinet that its encased by. Building said they use oil/natural gas for heat so not sure what type of radiator this is? I wanted to build a nice wooden window seat to go over it, can I do this with this type?


texts: Fill shower trap when it gets empty with water pressure

texts:
I have a problem that i want to solve with a temporary fix:

When somebody flushes toilet in the apartment house, my shower drain is emptied.

I bough some tube and a water bottle and connected the tube to the bottle. Filled the bottle with water and put other end of the tube to shower trap - the problem is the water is still constantly running into the trap. I wanted it to stop when the end of the tube is in the water. How can i achieve this?


texts: My new faucet has a warped cold water supply line nut

texts: Is there a way to cut out the warped fitting and put a new one on? It's a very expensive faucet I can't return because I'm past the return window.


texts: How to wire ceiling fan/light to two switches

texts:
I have a black/white/copper cable coming from my box along with a single white cable. I have installed my fan with the receiver for the remote and it is working as long as the previously existing wall switch is turned on. I should note that the installed ceiling fan/light combo work with the remote when the fan wall switch is turned on, it seems not to matter if the light switch is on or not.

I currently have that single white line capped in the ceiling box. Ideally I would like to be able to control the fan/light from the adjustable wall switch and I'm assuming it has something to do with the remaining white wire. Is it possible to do this with the receiver for the remote also installed? I would probably do away with the remote entirely just to have a double wall switch that allows for fan speed and light adjustment.

If needed the fan is the Casablanca Wisp from Home Depot.

Ideas or suggestions?

The white wire in question is the one in front


texts:
This is a picture of the box and a ceiling of my office. It looks to me like a ceiling fan box as it has a metal brace going out either side and a large bolt holding it to the brace. This room is pretty old and I couldn't see a weight rating on the box so I just wanted someone else to give their opinion.

Is this a ceiling fan box?


texts: Samsung Front Load Gas Dryer, plastic connection problem

texts:
RE: Samsung Front Load Gas Dryer. DV42H5200GW. T
his should have been an easy install, but plastic gas fitting seems to have cracked. I was just connecting my existing gas line to the dryer, and I may have over tightened the fitting as I heard a slight crack or squeak and now the plastic fitting on dryer is turning as I turn the line fitting. I will now remove the back panel to investigate, but I cannot afford to hire a pro.


texts: What components need to be changed when upgrading from R22 to R410a?

texts: What equipment will change when I convert from R-22 to R-410A? I don't want to get rid of my current heater as it's a hydro-thermal unit that uses free heated/recycled hot water. Can I get away with just replacing the A/C unit and orifice tube? Or will I need to change out the entire cabinet, heater core, and evaporator?


texts: Exterior electrical panel mounting and wiring into house

texts: What are the proper fasteners and method to mount electrical panel onto exterior of house? Also have two knockouts at bottom of panel for bringing circuits into house. What size hole is recommended for roughly 12 circuits per hole for an average house? I am not sure what parts to buy for those holes that go through siding and into house.


texts: When cutting wood do you add the width of the blade after the line mark?

texts: Im new to using a circular saw and would like to improve my accuracy, If I have a blade that is 2mm thick do I add this on after the current line that I have marked and then cut down that? Thanks


texts: Retrofit zero clearance gas fireplace or insert in existing masonry fireplace

texts:
We have an existing wood burning fireplace on the main floor of our house where a gas insert was previously installed (see pics below). The fireplace previously had a brick surround and a hearth which has now been removed as part of the renos. We intend to create a new stone surround around the fireplace.

The dimensions of the fireplace are listed below. Please note the back of the fireplace curves inward from bottom to the top. So the depth of the fireplace at the top is less than what it is at the bottom.

Fireplace measurements (inches):
Depth 17 3/8
Depth at top 10 3/4
Depth at bottom 17 1/4
Width (widest part) 32 5/16
Width at top 28 7/8
Width at back top 24 3/4
Width at back bottom 25 3/4
Height of opening 34 5/16
Height of base from floor 10 1/2

We are looking at options for a replacement fireplace that can be installed in this space ithout having to completely rebuild the fireplace. We prefer a linear look. We can do either a gas fireplace insert or a zero clearance fireplace.

Questions for the forum experts:
I believe we need to create framing around the fireplace to support the new stone surround. What material can this framing be made out of? Some vendors told us it has to be steel framing with cement board while others said regular lumber framing and drywall is ok.

It is not clear if we can increase the opening height to accommodate a zero clearance fireplace by removing the bottom rows of fire bricks/masonry. One vendor told us that the sides of the firebox are structural and removing the firebox floor could impact the sides and the structural integrity of the entire wall

Thanks in advance. We are based in Canada.


texts: How can I insulate my basement on a budget?

texts:
I have a home built in 1925, a "Chicago Bungalow" style, in Louisville, KY.

I have roughed in the basement, trying to take advantage of every square inch. I am planning on using it for short-term guests and also for a family room/reading area with loks of bookcases.

How much do I have to insulate the exterior basement walls? I'm leaving the ceiling open and painting it, so that isn't an issue. My family is fine with cooler temperatures and when we have guests, I could put a small space heater in the room where they'll be staying. Honestly, insulation is more expensive than I thought it would be and this thing is holding up my project. I want to do the right thing but am unsure of what that would be, within my budget.

The basement is approx. 900 sq. ft. (25' x 35'). There are 4 windows, 2' x 2.5' each. Since it is a "Chicago Bungalow" style, about 2.5 feet is above ground. The ceiling is the hardwood floor, with no subfloor and not finished, nor going to be finished (there is just too much duct work to consider working around it all). The budget is about $500 for insulation.


texts:
I'm replacing the floor in my bathroom, which was previously a vinyl sheet. Prior to that (and I think original to the house, built in early 70's) it was some peel and stick-type tiles, except they're very hard (they remind of me what would be sold as commercial tiles now). There were some tiles left under the old vanity, and since I'm replacing it with a differently-sized vanity, I figure I'll put the new floor underneath it as well, which means the subfloor has to be flat.

After I scraped up the old tiles, the floor is all black, presumably from the adhesive in the tiles. The rest of the floor though, that was covered by the vinyl sheet, looks like it's had the adhesive cleaned off.

How was this cleaned, and why is it all white now?

The floor was cut exactly to the outline of the vanity, and from the old paint on the wall, it looks like prior to the vanity there was just a wall-mounted sink. I'm going to guess the vanity was installed, and then sometime later the vinyl flooring was installed, as otherwise I can't see how the tiles got cut to this pattern.

I'm putting a floating vinyl plank tile floor in place, and this part will be underneath the vanity anyways (the new vanity is slightly bigger). Should I bother trying to clean this part as well, or just put the new floor over top?

Update: I added a whole bunch of screws to reinforce the floor to the joists below, and help reduce some of the squeaking. In one spot, right along an edge of the plywood, the white stuff flaked off - so it seems rather than being 'cleaned', there's actually a really thin layer of something on top of the black adhesive. There's no noticeable difference between the height of the two sections.

I've since laid the new floor on top, I didn't do anything extra to this subfloor.


texts: Can I make an interior partition wall thinner to accommodate appliances?

texts:
We live in a condo are looking to expand our laundry W/D space by a few inches so we can upgrade to a standard machine (27" wide). We only need about 2-3 inches to accommodate a larger machine.

The W/D sits in a space where the right wall is facing toward the exterior wall and has piping and vents running through its cavity so it would be best not to touch that wall. On the left of the W/D, we have a wall shared with a linen closet and has only a few electrical wires running through it and what appears to be a transformer. The left wall is about 4" thick from sheet rock to sheet rock. Steel studs.

I am thinking -- is it possible to remove the sheet rock on the side of the wall facing the W/D and somehow decrease the width of the steel stud by 3 inches and put the sheet rock back, giving me 3 more inches of space? This would create a wall that is about 1 inch thick in between the linen closet and my W/D space. Is this idea possible?

We are also open to the option of taking the entire wall down between the linen closet and the W/D, if we can confirm whether or not it is load-bearing or holding any weight up.

Here are photos:


texts: My cold water valve Seems to have a cap. Is this normal and how can I remove it?

texts: I’m in the process of connecting my washing machine but noticed that my cold water supply valve seems to have a cap on it. My hot water one doesn’t. Is this normal? How can I remove this, it doesn’t budge when I try to turn it.


texts: What type of space heater should I use in a child's room?

texts:
I have a bi-level house in Michigan.  The lower level is much cooler than the upper level, which is awesome except we're trying to move my 1-year old son to his own room down there but it's much colder than what we would like.  We'll keep the upstairs at ~75F, but his room won't get higher about 67F.  This is even with shutting off all of the vents downstairs.  We'd really like to get it to at least 70 or even 72.

We would like to use a space heater to keep the room at a warmer temp.  The room is on the small to medium in size so it seems like a space heater would be more than adequate.

Is there something out there that:

Has a set-it-and-forget-it thermostat with a temperature reading -
i.e., we set it to say 72 and it runs and turns on when it needs to
Is as child and pet safe as it can be - I realize it's not going to
be cool to the touch but at least have a killswitch if it gets
knocked over and whatever is safe in general
If it was wall-mountable it would be even better

Or, in general what type of heater am I even looking for?  I don't necessarily want to heat a specific point, but raise the temp of the whole room.  There seem to be a variety of types and it's unclear which would be best.


texts: Can the cooling wire (Y) be used to activate the furnace fan with a programmable thermostat?

texts:
Simple question I think, but you guys make the call.

Can the cooling wire (Y) be used to activate the furnace fan?

My neighbor has a Honeywell RTH7400 programmable thermostat used for natural gas heat with fan only (he has no AC).  I've already figured out how to turn the fan on manually, and that's OK.

I, however, was wondering if the cooling contact on the t-stat can be used to turn the fan on automatically if I set the t-stat to be a Heat and AC system.

The t-stat is presently set to 'heat only with fan'.
Only reason I ask is 'cause I don't want to ruin anything.

Thanks in advance.  I appreciate your input.


texts:
Our Chimney was in bad repair, and we had two chimney companies come and and say basically the same thing, it needed to be partially torn down, re-bricked, new crown, new damper door. Ok, so the company we went with was out working on it today. When I saw the result of the partially done job it gave me concern, the bricks seem to have excess space between the bricks.

Upon inspection, the new bricks are a half 1/2 inch shorter than the previous bricks. The morter between the bricks is an inch wide though, is this a sign of bad masonry?


texts: I need to replace my kitchen faucet but have never seen one like this before. My sink is a 4 hole, but this seems to be all one assembly. I does have a sprayer on it also, which is the hose with the nut.


texts:
Hi I recently bought a new Beko washing machine with dryer (model WD75141), just after 5-6 washes I saw water leakage on the floor, most probably drain water by the looks of it.
I am no expert my question is does this water also back flow into the laundry and subsequently the laundry is still dirty?
The drain pipe goes to a drain hose around 90cm high the same height as the washing machine and in the instructions it says maximum 90cm.
I saw the water leakage mid cycle, and afterwards I saw the washing machine removing water and filling drum with new water and spinning because in this cycle I did not see detergent bubbles in water.
My question if the washing machine does that does it mean laundry is dirty? I am not sure if there could be a backup of water.
Since the machine is a washer-dryer, at the end clothes were less dry than usual because the clothes got wrapped into a bed sheet which perhaps prevented drying, I am not sure. This drying less happened to me once before with another washing machine because of the same bed sheet.


texts: One 60A 240v Breaker connected to 4 Outlets using PDB

texts: I plan to power four 240v outlets from a single dual pole 100A breaker using a power distribution block. I'll have 4 AWG copper wires coming from each terminal feeding into a power distribution block, and will have separate 10 AWG copper wires connecting the block to each outlet (two are rated at 30a the others at 20A). Is this safe and legal? My research tells me I should be alright, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. The outlets will be powering computers rated at 24A for the 30A outlets and 16A for the 20A outlets.


texts: How do I tell if an electrician is "qualified" in the UK?

texts:
(All of this is with regard to living in England, UK).

My wife and I bought a house recently, and it clearly needs a bit of work on the electrics and a number of other jobs which would affect existing electrics.

How am I meant to know what a "qualified electrician" means? How do I even find out what my legal obligations are when it comes to owning a home and electrics? Reading this thread from the IET didn't help one bit and left me more confused than ever.

We recently had a small job done by someone who I assumed was a competent and qualified electrician. When I asked for a certificate for the job done he said it would cost £60. Surely, a certificate for the work done is part and parcel of getting the work done, or why else would I bother to pay for an electrician? If I wanted a hack job that I had no evidence of it being done properly I could just do that myself. I assumed there was an obvious logic of "paying an electrician == do it properly".

So I went looking and found the IET's Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate (MEIWC) but again, this doesn't seem like the whole story. And I still don't know what relevance "Part P" has.

In short, my question is, how the hell is anyone meant to stay legal in the UK when it comes to electrical works?


texts: Water in basement from basement door concrete crack

texts:
In my basement I get some water seepage that I believe comes from a crack in the concrete steps/framing underneath the cellar doors.
Interior 1
Interior 2
Exterior
On the outside, there is nothing really above it to shelter it from rainfall, there's a gutter but it is not going to catch any rain going over that part of the roof. Everything directly above the basement doors and the little corner exterior spot is uncovered.
I feel like patching up the crack and getting something to divert the water off that part of the ground would help. I would like to know if that is suitable, or what trade deals with this.


texts: I have a light fixture with a green a white and a black wire. What is the green for?

texts: I have a light fixture with a green wire as well as white and black. Where does green go?


texts: Unsure why GFCI outlet is showing orange indicator

texts: I replaced an old outlet with a new GFCI. Well upon replacing it, it now has an orange light when the one directly below it has something plugged in; also neither outlets are working. I tried to reset it to no avail.  The old outlet had weird wiring with two white cables, one red, and one black plugged in. From my understanding, I connected everything correctly. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: I'm adding to my deck. I marked off 6 holes, and dug them about 30" deep. Then I set tubes in, letting them extend about 8" above ground. I put a couple inches of rock in the bottom. I made sure the tubes were level. I mixed concrete and filled the tubes while tapping concrete. I had back filled aroind tubes first. We had heavy rain that night and now I have 3 tubes that are leaning about 1/4" to the inside of new deck. The deck is about 5 feet off ground. Can I save these or do I need to destroy these footings and start over? I have about 140 pounds of concrete in each tube. I set 6 tubes for a 10 x 12 deck. I live in the St. Louis area.


texts: Do I need to remove cap nails before re-roofing?

texts:
If I have existing decking with old tar paper that I want to remove the tar paper and install synthetic underlayment, do I need to remove all existing cap nails in addition to the tar paper or can I leave the cap nails if none are protruding?
There are literally a thousand cap nails in place.
thanks in advance for advice


texts:
I'm installing a new thermostat and the previous one did not have a C wire connected.  Tracing in back to the HVAC, I can't see a C output connection?  Based on the wiring diagram (and reading other posts), i'm guessing i need to connect it directly to the transformer and the brown wire?  Not sure if that's best, but looking for outside help.  Bottom line - where should i connect my C wire and how should i connect it?  Thank you!

[![enter image description here][2]][2]


texts: How can I hook curtains to vertical blinds?

texts:
I am seeking a way to  hook Blackout Curtains with grapples like in the photo below without removing my vertical blinds or their rod. What can I hook TO?  I want block sunlight. I don't want moneying to buy something else. My Blackout Curtain is just lieing around and I want use it!
I don't know official terms for curtail rod parts. But 1. Reddish Strip and 2. White String look too thin and frail to support heavy Blackout Curtain! If I hook curtain to them, I'll break Reddish Strip and White String!


texts: How can I move my fridge in and out faster for repairs?

texts:
We have an older 48 inch wide subzero that has been undergoing repairs for the last month. Everytime the tech needs to bring the fridge in and out of its position it's a complete pain in the behind to put the fridge back into the proper position it originally was in.
What can i put under the fridge "foot" to make the glid back and forth much easier and faster?


texts:
Last night I dozed off on the sofa and was awakened by a cracking noise which I quickly traced to a plug on the wall which was clearly sparking inside the case. Alarmed, I unplugged it, turned it off and checked the trip switches but nothing else seemed untoward.

The plug in question runs to a four-socket extension. Plugged into the four sockets were a TV soundbar, two games consoles (and Xbox 360 and a PS4) and some incandescent Christmas tree lights, none of which were actively drawing power at the time this happened.

Today, presuming the extension to be at fault, I went out and got a new one with surge protection. I plugged the Christmas tree lights in first, and it seemed fine. Then I plugged in the PS4 and - without turning the console on - the surge protection tripped and the lights went out. Puzzled, I repeated this and got the same result.

I then plugged in the lights, Xbox and soundbar and everything seemed fine. Then I added the PS4 and there was no effect. I tried turning the Xbox on and the tree lights briefly went out, then returned. I turned that off and turned the PS4 on: no effect.

I cannot recall whether I'd ever seen this happen before: I have a vague memory of this extension sparking briefly once or twice when power was drawn. But this was prolonged sparking, enough to wake me from sleep. Also I have never had issues plugging in the PS4 before, but we don't normally run Christmas tree lights from this extension.

What's going on here? Should I be worried, or is the surge protection enough to keep me safe? Do I need to swap things around or unplug things when not in use?


texts: How can I screw a small threaded rod in a bigger hole?

texts:
I have a M6 x 1 hollow threaded rod, which I want to screw into a metal block (which I obtained from an old dysfunctional machine of the same type). The metal block's hole (its an un-threaded hole) in which the threaded rod is suppose to fit has 7.85 mm inner diameter.

I was thinking of using helical inserts, but the product's outer diameter is 7.95 mm which is slightly bigger than the metal block's hole, but nonetheless makes it useless in terms of tapping metal block's hole. My application requires that the part work properly up to a temperature of 300 F. Is there any way to do this without having to completely machine a new metal block?


texts: Using 12-3 to wire lights/fan, sharing neutral

texts:
I feel like I am being super paranoid here but I want to make sure I am going to wire these lights correctly... I am going to have two recessed lights and a fan/light combo. The plan is to run 12-3 NM-B in the following manner:

Light is black wire. Fan is red wire.

Stop 1:
First recessed light. 3 blacks wire nutted, 3 whites wirenutted, 2 reds wirenutted. 12-3 romex continues on.

Stop 2:
Fan/light combo.  3 blacks wirenutted. 3 reds wirenutted, 3 neutrals wirenutted (fan/light combo only has 1 neutral wire). 12-3 romex continues on.

Last stop: recessed light. 2 blacks wirenutted, 2 whites wire nutted, red fan circuit is capped off and connected to nothing.

This is an uncommon lighting setup as I would like the fan light to turn on with the rest of the main lights and the fan to be on it's own switch. Of course I would only be switching the hots (black/red) and never the neutral but for some reason I am weary that the fan being on without the lights being on may induce current into the powered-off black through the shared neutral enough to light up the LEDs. I feel like it would only be phantom voltage on a digital multimeter if anything but I don't want to make a mistake like the previous owner who switched the neutral and when I touched the old metal fan/light combo to remove the bulbs the LED and CFL lit up as if I had turned on the switch :| Luckily I did not get shocked... Please let me know if I have a valid concern or if I am just overthinking. Thanks :)


texts: What is a suitable treatment for an outdoor table?

texts:
I have a new outdoor table made from pallets. What is the best treatment for this wood?

Note: It will be in full sun.


texts: Is this wiring dangerous? Smart Thermostat C-wire AC adapter twisted together

texts:
Is this wiring scenario dangerous? Is it likely produce sparks or damage my HVAC system?
Please read the description and see the image below.
Description
I didn't have a C-wire for my Emerson Sensi smart thermostat so I got an AC adapter. The adapter has two wires. Instructions say to put one of them in the C slot and the other into either RC or RH.
However my system (gas furnace and central AC) requires both the Blue RC and the Red RH wire to function properly. I tried putting the second wire into Y2 and W2 to see if that would work, no luck.
The working combination was to place one wire into the C slot as seen below, and the second one I twisted together with the RH wire. Works well so far.
Let me know if you think this could be a problem, and what else I might try to fix this.
From my reading, it seems like I could probably add a C-wire without this silly AC adapter, but it's an apartment with a cramped furnace closet and I would like to avoid running new cables through the wall.


texts: What could cause a tap to flow well, then spurt?

texts:
I fitted a new tap to a sink, single cold water tap. When I first turned it on the water ran fine. If I  open the tap further, the water flow becomes jerky with constant gaps in the flow.

Is this the tap that is malfunctioning or the delivery?


texts: Is there an appropriate grinder blade, or another tool, with which I can iron out masonry surfaces like this? Sort of like a masonry equivalent of a planer or a belt sander.


texts: HDMI Connection flickers when ceiling Fan is switched on/speed increased

texts:
I have my desktop computer connected to the TV using a 1mtr HDMI cable. I wanted to reposition the desktop and hence bought a cheap 3mtr HDMI cable. With the new cable I noticed that whenever I switch the fan on or increase the fan speed the HDMI connection flickers, similar to unplugging and re-plugging the cable. Apart from that the new HDMI cable works as it is expected to. (It has 4K written on it)
I re-attached the old cable and I could not reproduce the behavior. The new 3m cable is thicker than the old 1m cable hence I assumed it was of a decent quality if not a good one.
I plugged the new HDMI cable to the laptop (connected to the power source) and I was unable to reproduce the problem. My Desktop has GTX 1660TI graphics card with 500W ps.
I would understand about electrical noise if the TV flickers or the desktop restarts/turns off due to power shortage when the fan is switched on. But I cannot seem to understand why is this behavior seen only with this new HDMI cable. The TV doesn't flicker otherwise when connected to the Firestick or never flickered when the 1m HDMI cable was connected.
The TV and the desktop are connected to the same socket (cannot avoid this as there is only one).
The fan is in the same hall, perhaps the same circuit, but not connected to the same switchboard.
Another fan in a different room does not cause this problem.
Can someone please shed some light on it?
How can i prevent this on the cable I bought?
What are the implications of this behavior (if any) on the devices connected? In this case the TV and the graphics card.
Well, one might say "Go for a more expensive cable", surely but, I would like to understand the dynamics behind this happening and therefore ensure that the expensive cable wouldn't have the same problem. If this is not the right forum for this topic can someone please point me the right direction?


texts: Florida..Have storage shed approx. 60' from house. Have a gfci box on front porch, was planning on connecting to box for pwr supply w 14 Ga.. planning on wire in elect. conduit, wire run will be about 75'. lighting is ( 4) 500 watt shop lights ( not on at same time), maybe two at same time.


texts: Does mold in a loggia means that the loggia must be replaced?

texts:
My apartment has a loggia which used to be a balcony (it is now an extension of the living room without any separation between them - the door that was there was removed). This was done by the previous owner.
In the architectural drawing below :) the parts in blue are aluminium frames and double windows that were attached to the lower and upper edge of the balcony (so mine, and the one above) and the security rail (the black vertical bars). You can see such a balcony on the last picture in this post on the facing building.

The apartment is well heated and aerated but I see mold on the loggia - specifically near the edges. As you can see on the pictures below, there is heavy condensation and the water is going down, but also on the ceiling, next to the aluminium frames of the loggia.

One other thing is that the apartment is heated from the floor, but obviously not the ex-balcony - this is a slab of concrete sticking out and cooling the living room (which is another problem). Both the upper and lower floors have similar loggias.
I would like to fix that and have it fixed by specialized companies. I would like however to get your advice in advance so not to be completely dumb when discussing with them. Specifically:

are such cases common where there is significant condensation of water on frames?
is this something that can be fixed with such aluminium loggia?
or should I consider changing it → in which case what to pay attention to so that I do not end up with the same issue?


texts: Do I need a header for an egress window?

texts:
I am in the process of finishing a bedroom in my basement. I need to add a window to the room and the selected wall is poured concrete. I need to know if I have to add a header above the window in the concrete.

The building inspector was of no help.

The wall is parallel to the floor joists above
The roof slopes towards this wall
The desired window size is 4' x 3'

I would like to simply cut the hole for the window and frame it with some pt 2 x 12. The main reason for avoiding the header is aesthetics. There is no siding on this portion of the house and I want to avoid having to side it.

Thanks


texts: When heating, furnace blower turns on only in "ON" mode, not in "AUTO" mode

texts: I have a York unit that is having problems with the furnace. The furnace turns on but the blower doesn't turn on when set to "AUTO" mode, only when in "ON" mode. "AUTO" works fine when cooling. Any idea what's going wrong?


texts: Bedroom light switching also switching bedroom walk-in cupbaord light

texts:
I've just replaced the ceiling rose/pendant in my main bedroom. Although the bedroom light is "working" i.e. turning the bedroom light on/off by its switch, this switch is now also switching the bedroom walk-in wardrobe light which is on a separate switch. Switching the walk-in wardrobe switch also turns off the bedroom light switch. There is clearly some kind of dual switching going on but cannot understand how this could be happening as everything looks like it is wired correctly in the ceiling rose. (Caveat the blue switched/live black sleeve did fall off while doing this so cannot be sure it is wired the same, but given that the bedroom switch is turning the bedroom light on/off....)

The bedroom ceiling rose has three twin and earth lighting cables entering, one obviously from the previous light in the circuit on the same floor, the bedroom light switch cable and the third i'm assuming to the end light in the circuit which is the walk-in wardrobe light.

Any ideas on what could be happening?
Thanks


texts: How to replace bathtub pull-up drain stopper with screen/mesh for hair?

texts:
I have a bathtub which also is a shower, and it has a twist-and-pull type drain. Currently I never actually use the bathtub for taking a bath, only showers. Unfortunately it keeps getting clogged with hair.

On the one hand I could get a hair stopper that fits over it:

But I'd prefer to just install a mesh/screen that is always open and looks much nicer:

Is there an easy way to convert this type of drain?


texts: Is there a tool shaped like a thin-bladed putty knife but with a rubber blade and spongelike surface?

texts:
Sorry if this is a duplicate, thanks in advance!

I am trying to clean up under the rim of my toilet near where the jets are, and I can't reach a finger or rigid brush up there.

There may be a better way, but does anyone know whether there is a tool like the one described in the subject line above? I am looking for something that I could reach through the narrow slit between the rim and wall of the toilet, then scrape across the surface.

Thank you!


texts:
My existing door jamb is  5 9/16      i m ordering pre hung interior doors      my cut  choices  are   5 1/2 ( 5 8/16 )        or  5 5/8  ( 5 10/16 )

What would you do  and why   or  why  not  on  either
thanks !


texts: Purchase new bathroom fan (not a big project guy but this seems pretty straight forward). Hooked up wires, white to white, black to black and green to green. Connected power and turned on fan. It just hums, fan does not spin. I have tried to manually spin fan (spins freely), but does not on its own with power.


texts:
I need this screw for assembling my BabyBay baby cot.
In this manual, it is part number 1122.


texts: How to install Water Heater drain pan to sump pit?

texts:
I want to replace my electric water heater.  The current water heater does not have a drain pan.  I'd like to add one with my new water heater.  This is all in the basement.

Our basement does not have a floor drain.  The waste pipe is about 4 feet off the floor.  There is a sump pit however, and I'd imagine that's the best place to connect the drain pan to.

How exactly do I do this?

The sump pit is sealed (piece of plywood).  I can certainly drill through that, but if I connect PVC from the drain pan to the sump pit then I'm effectively "unsealing" the pit right (air can travel freely from the pit to the drain pan)?  I notice the A/C condensation line has a trap built into it, so it's still sealed.  Would I need to elevate the drain pan and water heater, and install a trap?

See the picture.


texts:
I have a garage with an odd size entry (not bay) door. The old door, which recently broke, was only 24" x 70".

Time to put in a new door. My intent is to enlarge the opening for a more standard size. I expect this will be cheaper while also improving the structure. In fact, I can see the space where there was once a wider opening... it measures at 36" rough, which would have fit a 34" door. It should be very easy to restore this old opening, and I can get a 34" x 80" prehung door at a reasonable price.

No word yet on why a previous owner put in such a weird door ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The problem is the height. My understanding is a 34" x 80" door needs a 36" x 82" rough opening. The entire height of the garage wall from the concrete to the bottom of the beam is only 81 3/4".

Will I be able to make the standard door fit, or will I need to do something custom? If it will fit, will I need to do anything extra to make it work?


texts:
The only engraving on the bulb I can see says "NRJ8EE" but Google searching that brings up nothing.

Also, if we can't identify the bulb, is anyone able to tell if the fixture would be able to support an LED bulb with the same base?


texts: What codes are invovled in running an overhead subpanel feeder to a detached garage?

texts: This subfeeder will be going to a detached garage about 30ft away, and powering a 100amp subpanel. I'm not sure what codes are involved in this feat. I'd like to know the codes involved for compliance.


texts: Replaced 4-way electrical switch with new one with ground. Will it work without the ground?

texts:
I noticed that one of the three switches used to control our kitchen lights was acting funny. By funny, I mean that when I flipped that switch to turn the lights on there was a delay of about 1 second. Looking through forums the most likely candidate was a bad switch. The other two switches work correctly. Went to Home Depot and picked up a Leviton 4 way switch, samve amperage and voltage (15A 120V) as my original. The only difference was the new switch had a grounding screw, whereas the old one did not. I did not have an obvious grounding wire in the box, so I decided to hook up the new switch without it (I understand this is not the best long term solution). I hooked up the 4 wires in the same position on the new switch as on the old one. Turned the power back on and none of the switches worked. Checked to ensure the screws were tight and there was a good connection.  Went back to the old switch, it worked fine (the delay is gone too, for now).  My question is, is it most likely the new switch is bad, or that there is some sort of "failsafe" in newer switches that won't let them work if the ground screw is not connected--from looking at the switch, this doesn't really seem likely, but thought I would ask.
Thank you.
Thank you for looking at this.
I did not see any installation instructions when I first took it out of the package. I didn't think I needed them--I thought how hard could it be to detach 4 wires and attach them in the same place. Then, after reading your response I doublechecked and found they were written, in VERY small print, on the inside of the box. From the tiny diagram they supplied, along with your information that they may not be positional, I was able to hook it up and it works.
The old switch had the wires from each of the other two switches on one side or the other.  This switch wants them on top or bottom.
Thank you again for your help.
Robert


texts: How can I compute the force with a fulcrum on a Murphy bed?

texts:
I've built the following murphy bunk bed:

It rotates around the circles (the fulcrum) into a closed position:

I decided to buy gas springs (the retracting kind) to assist in closing the bed. Using the measurements from the picture,

from what I understand, the calculation would be:

force = 110*(35.8125)/11.4375 = 344.43

At this point, I was feeling pretty savvy and bought two springs that had 150 lbs of force, thinking this would be perfect. But I had a problem--instead of naturally falling open as I expected, it required all 200 pounds of me at the edge of the bed to get it to budge.

So where am I going wrong?


texts: Is the material behind my wall's surface asbestos?

texts: I'm a bit worried. All the wall is peeled off and its an old house. Just trying to renovate.


texts: Do I need to do anything after a bathroom flooding? How can I prevent it in future?

texts:
My house (recent construction) has a single-piece bathtub in the upstairs bathroom - the kind that includes 3 walls surrounding it, I don't know if it's acrylic, glass-fiber, or some other construction.

Last week, an unnamed individual didn't properly close the shower curtain and never noticed while bathing, so the bathroom was flooded and water started dripping from the recessed lighting in the ceiling on the ground floor immediately below. I'd gauge at least a pint of water dripped from the light fixture - which I dutifully mopped up and put a bucket underneath - as well as immediately instructing the guilty individual to refrain from using that shower for a couple of days while I investigated.

(As far as I know the lights were/are fine: there was no electrical shorting or burning-smell afterwards).

I initially thought it was a burst shower or drain pipe, but after running the shower for testing there were no leaks downstairs, and I noticed water marks and warped paint on the baseboards - suggesting the cause was simply someone-not-closing-the-shower-curtain-properly - I also noticed a large gap between the baseboard and the bathtub unit that plenty of water on the floor could easily have escaped through.

As an aside, I'm surprised houses aren't designed for this eventuality by placing a giant drip-pan underneath each bathroom, such that all leaks are captured and can be sent via a pipe directly to the drains (the alternative being the "wet-room" concept, which I'm not a fan of).

Could any kind of lasting damage have been inflicted by this incident? Could the water have done anything to the structure? Are internal structural timbers usually waterproofed - or could this mean that the insides of my house will now rot and/or erode?

And are there any devices or things I could get that would detect if the floor is excessively wet and so alert the current bathroom user?

By way of mitigation, I've recently purchased a shower-curtain "curver" that ensures the curtain curves inward at the edges, rather than outward, so I hope that will help prevent a recurrence in future.


texts: Type of screws for 2x4 shelves and benches

texts:
I am making some shelves and workshop benches out of 2x4 and OSB, just the standard type you see in a lot of garages/workshops.  I want them to be sturdy and support a good amount of weight.

My question is what type of screws should I use, drywall screws, decking screws, or something else; what about torx vs phillips?  Would I need to predrill holes (OSB/2x4s), ideally I wouldn't so I could make quick work of the assembly.  Also what length is good, some places have screws going through two 2x4, would 3 inch screws protrude the other side in that case?


texts: Ramset nails not flush with basement frame wall

texts:
I built my first wall in my basement when I started to frame and I bought the Ramset MasterShot 0.22 gun from Home Depot and read up on everything and when I used it to nail my treated 2x4 to the cement the nails don't seem to go down all the way.

Here is a picture of how far they go.

I'm using the yellow powder which should be plenty powerful enough and the 2 1/2 nails which are meant for nailing 2x4 to concrete.


texts: Device to share power between service panels

texts:
Is there a device that can evenly split the load on two separate panels?
For example,
Panel A ——————-\
                >-[ device ]— Load
Panel B ——————-/

The use case is, up stairs and down stairs tenants have separate electric service. There is a shared washer and dryer in the basement. Both machines are using the down stairs electricity. Is there a device that can be plugged into both panels and draw the power evenly to share the cost?


texts: Can I use a toggle bolt if there's no space behind the drywall?

texts:
While trying to install a 14lb metal shelf to the wall, I had learned from a previous installation mishap to upgrade from plastic anchors to something stronger. I picked up a few toggle bots (3/16" w 3" bolts).

When I started drilling the 1/2" hole, I realized my bit wouldn't go much further than an inch in. It was a hard stop. After the 1" of drywall immediately behind it is what looks like concrete. There is NO space between the drywall and the concrete.

I live in a new condo and the wall happens to be one that I share with my neighbour. I'm not sure what material it's made of, or if these toggle bolts will work.

Does anyone have any advise on how I can get these heavy shelf installed, toggle or no toggle.


texts: Why won't this 3/8 male connector for a natural gas dryer fit a 3/8 female connector?

texts:
First off, I changed the Natural Gas orifice to a factory ordered LP orifice, I am not just trying to hook up a LP line to a natural gas dryer without setting the dryer up correctly for LP.

My problem is that the female end LP line, professionally installed, does not fit my dryer male connection.

The fitting is so close, it feels like it will thread but just doesn't.

I am seeing stuff online about a flare end to a threaded end

Is there anything I am doing wrong, or is my dryer female not the 3/8" I am thinking it is?

The instructions for my dryer says it is 3/8":

I added some images to assist with my question:


texts:
I am replacing two old switches in a bathroom.  I purchased two standard single pole switches from home depot (two screws on one side, ground screw on the other)  the old switches had a wire connecting the two switches.
I'm assuming the line from the panel feeds one switch, the jumper wire feeds the other switch and the other two wires power their respective light sources.  I've tried multiple connections and am getting the same problem.  The switches do not work independently.
One switch seems to power both of them, so when i turn that switch on, both lights turn on,  then the other switch can turn on and off it's light only if the other switch is on.
What am i doing wrong?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Why do we screw doors into the doorframe rather than the studs?

texts:
I just finished fixing my door to my garage, which would not latch because the door had sagged.  The final remedy was to drill the holes in the hinges deeper and put 2" long screws into the frame to pull the door level.

Why do we rely on little tiny 1/2" screws that strip at the lightest insult?  Why don't we just start by attaching the door right into the frame and forget about all of this saggy door stuff?


texts: How to Cover Small Window but allow Light?

texts:
I want to prevent my neighbors to see through my window but allow maximum light. Blinds are not possible there in the small one. The small window

Some transparent layer/membrane could work, not any permanent one.


texts:
I'm renovating my bathroom and I need to insulate the floor. It's a concrete slab with 2x4 joists set on one brick piers.

The home was built 50 yrs ago.

There was no insulation at all in the floor. And the bathroom is freezing in the winter and hot in the summer.

If I slide in pieces of rigid foam board will I have problems with condensation rotting out the 2x4s?


texts: How can I prevent my Mirra chair from creaking when reclining?

texts:
I have a new Herman Miller Mirra chair. I love it and do not want to return it, but it makes irritatingly loud creaking noises when I shift my weight or recline.

The source of the noise is the loose plastic shell that covers the recline assembly and is gently secured with S-clips. Any force against this hollow shell makes it deform slightly and produces the sound. Attempting to damp the noise by padding the loose areas of the shell to resist deforming does not help.


texts:
I'm trying to locate the water shut off valve for my home. I'm trying to shut-off the water to replace and outdoor faucet. I've attached 3 pics of possible locations for it. Can anyone identify it for me?
In case it matters I live in Hawaii.
Notes:
In pic #1 I already attempted tightening and loosening the pressure regulator bolt. It doesn't stop the water.

In pic #2, I attempted turning the large bolt head on the bottom right (next to blue meter cap) of the pic with an 8-inch wrench. It wouldn't turn. I was hesitant to buy a bigger wrench and put more leverage into it until I got some advice...

Pic #3 is just a photo of my front left outdoor faucet. I only included it because the home inspection report I dug up listed the water shut off valve as being in the front left of the house. However, this is the ONLY thing that is not photographed by the inspector in the report, so I suspect it was made up and he never actually found it. But maybe the black sewer cap in the bottom of the pick is something to do with it?


texts: Installing a garden hose to a threaded valve, but not enough space

texts:
I'm trying to attach a garden hose to a valve with an outer diameter of 1", but there is not enough vertical clearance to attach the hose.
What would be the best way to make a connection in this case?

I believe a kind of "male-to-female" pipe connector with a 90 degree bend is required, but am unsure of the correct terminology / specifications when looking for one.

For clarification, below is a picture of the valve and the hose.

The top part of the hose, when detached, fits into the valve as shown below.


texts: Do old fluorescent light bulbs use less electricity?

texts:
I've read that old fluorescent light bulbs produce less light over time.

Do they also use less electricity, or do they use the same amount, but produce more heat?


texts:
I'm building screened porch with 4x4 wall posts (screens in-between)spaced 48". My question is about the roof.
I have a chimney at one end so was planning on trusses instead of a ridge beam: Double 2x8 rafters sandwiched with a 2x8 rafter tie. These would be spaced 48" (matching the wall posts).
The span of the rafter tie is 20 feet. Is that within Connecticut building code? Alternatives?


texts:
We are switching old gas range for a new one and were surprised when we pulled it out and discovered we couldn't shut off the gas without first cutting out the drywall/plaster around the shut-off valve.

This seems terrible - nearly impossible to do in an emergency without special tools (and cutting the wall).  Is there any valid reason this might have been done this way?  What's our best option for when we hook up the new range - I don't want to leave things impossible to reach, are there options to add another shutoff valve further along the connection?

Here are two pictures of how it looked when we moved the range and after we freed the shutoff:


texts: Preventing Clogging/Flooding at bottom of exterior basement steps

texts:
I just purchased a house this weekend, and moved in yesterday. I live in MD (USA), and there just happened to be a torrential downpour yesterday after we moved in. I went downstairs to check my sump pumps, and then checked the door leading to by basement as I was instructed to. My sumps were fine, but the water level at the back door had climbed to just below the bottom of the door! Five more minutes, and I would have had water issues the first day in the house!

Just to give you an example of what I am talking about, the steps to the basement look like this. This isn't my basement, but it's pretty identical.

The drain at the bottom had been clogged, and I had to go outside to unclog the drain. Luckily, the water drained almost instantly, and the crisis was averted. Still, it made me extremely nervous and I want to do all I can to prevent this in the future.

So, what can I do to prevent this from happening again?

Obviously, maintenance will help, but making sure it is clean every time it rains requires that I be home. Trimming the foliage around the steps will also help, but I'm looking for a more permanent, less maintenance solution.

I thought of a few options that might work..

Putting a metal grating at the bottom of the steps covered in screen material to increase the surface area of the drain and make it virtually impossible that the entire thing gets clogged.
Put an awning over the steps / extending the roof to prevent water from falling directly into the stairway.
Raising the door / higher step going into the basement (worst of the bunch, in my opinion)
Putting a dome over the drain that is specially made for this. Much like option 1, it increases the surface area of the filter/drain. Though this creates a tripping hazard, which isn't that big of a deal considering we plan on never using those stairs anyway.
Sealing off that damn door since we will never be using it, and getting rid of the stairs. I'd prefer not to do this, but if the door wasn't there in the first place, I never would have complained.

Thoughts?

Thanks!


texts: Why are some outlets in my bedroom working and some do not/

texts: I have 5 outlets in bedroom 3 stopped working. tripped circuit breaker nothing. Why would this happen?


texts: Central heating system / boiler does not shut off

texts:
I'm hoping someone here can help with a mysterious fault with our central heating system, which sometimes gets stuck and runs all day even when the timer is off.

It's a standard (for the UK) low-pressure system with cold water tank in the loft & hot water tank in a cupboard, 3-way valve, gas boiler, radiators, and Honeywell ST9400C timer / controller.

The system is wired as per the diagram below.

The problem is that, sometimes, the system will not shut off even though both timer relays (HW + CH) are OFF - the 3-way valve stays in the 'M' position (HW + CH) and the boiler & pump keep running.

I have changed the timer so pretty sure the relays aren't sticking there, I have checked the room thermostat isn't sticking, which leaves me looking at the hot water cylinder stat as the likely culprit - would others agree with this or have I missed something?

The reason I'm doubting myself a bit is the valve being stuck in "M" (HW+CH) rather than just "H" (HW only), although I'm not sure if this is thrown off slightly by the controller relays being OFF?


texts: 3 way circuit with voltage in the off position

texts:
I have a 3 way circuit providing current to 4 recessed LED lights. When the switches are off, the LED lights still burn very dimly. Approximately 23 volts in one of the fixtures.

What causes this?


texts:
Can someone tell me the name of this fitting? I presume it is steel about 10mm x 25mm x 10mm with a threaded hole on the bottom.

Has holes all the way through on alternate faces.


texts:
Bought a home with two solid wood entry doors which result in a dark entry foyer

Anyone aware of a company making window inserts that can be installed in entry doors?

I'd hate to buy new doors to replace the current ones.

Thanks for your help


texts: How do I read the usage information my electrical meter sends to my power company?

texts: I would like to keep an eye on what information my power meter sends to my electric company. Is there a way to use, for example, powerline networking to read what usage statistics the power meter sends to my electric company?


texts: split system air conditioner condensate hose

texts:
I need to buy and install a split AC and I have a small issue.

The AC has two copper pipes for refrigerant gas to flow through and one hose to eliminate condensation water, and normally, the hose should hang below the AC unit to let gravity take out the condensate water. But because of some load bearing walls (in which I'm not allowed to make any holes) I'm limited in the location where I can mount the AC units. Because of that, the copper pipes and the condensate hose have a weird route which isn't a straight downfall from the internal unit to the external one. They don't go above the internal unit or below the external one, but the general shape is that of an U where water can stagnate.

Is this a problem? The copper pipes transport gas so I think it doesn't matter what shape or route they take, but the hose will retain some water in the middle.

What are the rules to follow when arranging the condensate hose? I don't want to buy the AC units and find out that there will be problems with evacuating the water.


texts: Can I season firewood over the woodstove?

texts:
I have a woodstove but all my firewood is still green. My friend suggested I dry it out indoors. He said I should put a few fire bricks on top of the stove, then stack green firewood on the bricks, around the single-wall chimney pipe.

Is this a good idea?


texts: Ceiling fan/light suddenly stopped responding to remote controller

texts:
The ceiling fan w/light are controlled by a remote control device. A wall switch which over-rides the remote, i.e., if the wall switch is turned off, the fan and the light would turn off. And, the switch must be turned on for the fan and/or light to respond to the remote.

Suddenly the fan is stuck in low speed, and the light won't turn on. The remote control has power and just to be sure the 9v battery was replaced with a fresh one. The remote has four toggle switches which have not been altered. The receiver is housed at the top of the ceiling fan close to the ceiling. It is about 14 feet from the floor. The receiver dip switches have not been altered either.

What could be done to re-connect the ceiling fan/light and the remote controller

1) Tested the remote control by setting the dip switches to match a remote for an identical and properly functioning ceiling fan in another room. That fan did not respond to the remote.

2) Set the dip switches of the other remote to match the failed remote. The failed fan did not respond to that remote either.


texts: Can tile be removed and placed again before it sets?

texts: 20 x 20 tiles were started today in my living room. The tile has been laid straight without any kind of staggering. They are in complete rows which is not what I had wanted. The room has not been completed yet and I am wondering if the tile can be removed at this point and done again?


texts: Peeling Latex on hollow core door - is there a way to paint without removing latex?

texts:
I have several hollow core doors that look like someone painted latex over oil, and they are all peeling.  Removing the old latex isn't an option, as I've already spent days on about 20% of just ONE door, ie, it isn't working...  Is there a product that I can apply directly over the remaining latex that might stop this peeling and allow me to repaint the doors white?  Replacing is also not a good option, as they are odd sizes and cost would be a huge factor.

Appreciate any advice on a resurfacing option!
Thanks


texts: Quickest way to identify line wire and load wire in a multiway switch

texts:
I am upgrading a lot of light switches in my home to Z-Wave smart switches. It is easy when it is a simple switch, but a 3-way, 4-way or n-way switch circuit is trickier. When doing so, I need to know where the hot "line" wire is and where the most downstream "load" wire is.

I am able to accomplish this but it is time consuming. My current approach is as follows:

Shut power off at the breaker for the circuit
Pick a switch and disconnect it
Turn power back on at the breaker
Probe the wires at the disconnected switch. If I find a hot wire, then go flip a switch elsewhere in the circuit and probe again. If the hot wire remains hot, I have found the most upstream "line" wire. If not, I know the most upstream "line" wire isn't at this switch. [REPEAT FROM STEP 1 with a new switch]
Once the "line" wire is identified, I can then use a similar technique to identify the wire that powers the lights.

This takes a really long time, especially when other people (and children) are in the house and you have to ensure nobody else is in danger of touching an exposed wire.

I can reliably and consistently identify the line & load wires using this method, but I am really hoping someone has a hack or shortcut to quickly accomplish this same goal.


texts: Rebuilding a pool pump... where does this part go?

texts:
I've successfully replaced the bearings on my Whisperflo pump, and now I'm ready to put the bells back on the ends. (It's actually an aftermarket replacement motor, not the original Pentair motor, but everything looks and acts pretty much identical based on YouTube repair videos I watched.)

I found out that the little wavy washer goes in the rear bell, but I have an extra rubber washer/gasket/whosiewhatsit I'm looking at and I can't for the life of me remember where it came from:

Where does this little dude go?

Side question: how do I know when the shaft seal (the two-part one in the seal plate and impeller) is bad? I have this thing pulled apart and it's about a year old, so I thought of getting a Go Kit and replacing all of the seals, but I honestly don't have a clue how often I'm supposed to replace them. If it matters, there was scale build-up on the bolts connecting the seal plate to the motor front bell, and scale in the bowl of the bell as well. It's a saltwater pool and it runs pretty much 24/7.


texts: How to determine electrical box size per NEC

texts:
Here is a quick exercise:

Wires for two circuits are entering a junction box through one conduit.
On the other end, the circuits split into two branches
Two neutrals entering (current count = 2)
Two hots entering (current count = 4)
Two grounds entering (current count = 5)
Wire gauge is 12, so total volume is 5 * 2.25 = 12.25 cu inches

Does this calculation have to include wires that are exiting? I will have two 12/2 Romex. If this figures into calculation, 2x the volume is needed (24.5 cu inches).
Edit 1: I should clarify that this will be a junction box without any devices on it.  On one end, a 1/2 inch LFMC is entering with a plastic connector, and on the other end, two 12/2 Romex wires will exit individually through a snap on connector each.


texts: Can I buy or make an adapter to hook 2 generators together to run a 220 volt welder?

texts: Can I buy or make an adapter to connect 2 generators together to get more amps for my 220 Arc Welder?


texts: Is it typical for the metal of corner bead to be exposed after it is finished being mudded?

texts: I hired a company to finish the drywall job in my room.  One of the things that sticks out like a sore thumb is the exposed edges of corner bead.  I have never seen corner bead exposed like this.  Isn't it supposed to be covered with a coat of mud or are you actually supposed to paint over it?


texts: What is the name of a liquid coupler between a wet/dry vac and a hose?

texts:
The contraption you see below closes a wet/dry vac's liquid exit. I'd like to replace it with "something" that connects to a water hose.

What would that "something" be called?

I would attach a valve to the other end of the water hose. If such a thing (hose + valve + thing) is readily available, it would be even better.

I can go to my hardware store and ask them, but I know from experience that they'll make me walk back and forth between gardening and plumbing until I can just identify what I'm looking for. Hence I'd much rather ask here, and perhaps just order online.

Update

With the keywords "drain hose adapter" I have now identified what would be ideal.

I'm looking for something exactly like this

but without the pump. Do they make it or do I have to DIY?


texts: 7 Watt CFL Socket -- is there a specific tool to close these copper prongs on wire?

texts:
Having spent a lot of time getting the right parts, I don't want to blow this up by not connecting it properly.  Please see picture and tell me, is there a specific tool to close the wire connection?  I am not getting a convincing closure on my own...
Now, I understand from JStewart's comment that the bulb's pins fit in the copper clamps. (Thank you!) However, I do not know what to do with the wires...  Here is a photo of the flip/under side.  Should I use quick connects to attach the wire to the circular inserts on the under side?  How do I decide which location to connect each wire to - above specs or below specs...one wire is smooth with 600V printed on it (hot?) and the other has a slight groove (neutral?)..

@JimStewart
@Harper - Reinstate Monica
One of the connections was snug, the other wire's housing was too thick so I whittled down the housing a bit to make that side fit.  Then, used some electrical tape to further secure both sides.  It turned on.


texts: Wire for 100 AMP Detached Garage Subpanel. 50 feet direct buried 50 feet in crawl space

texts:
My plan is to run 240 volt 100 AMP power to detached garage. I have 200 AMP Panel in basement of house. Main question is wiring for the run. 50 feet of the run will be in house crawl space/basement. 50 feet will need to be buried 24" in ground. Can I run direct buried cable for the whole distance if so what size wire? Or should I install PVC conduit and pull individual wires and if so what size wire to pull?  I would prefer aluminium wire for the cost savings.

Additional Details.

Main House Panel is a Siemens/ITE Load Center G4040MB1200.
Plan is to add a Q2100 100-Amp Double Pole Type QP Circuit Breaker to Main Panel.
House is all electric, 2 Heat Pumps, 1 Electic hot water heater, electric dryer and electric stove.
Main panel is full so plan to add 2 double stuff breakers to make room for the 100 AMP Breaker in Main panel.
Garage is 28x40.

Will be installing 30AMP rv plug for occassional use of RV AC for guests.
Will be installing Window AC unit in garage 20AMP circuit and a couple 20 amp circuits for power tools, and a couple 15 amp circuits for lights.


texts: Bought a 20 year old house last spring and it appears to be settling - when to call in experts

texts:
This house is about 20 years old and we purchased it last April without seeing any of this stuff. The inspection came back OK but we found a decent sized foundation crack on the walkthrough under some insulation (good times...) Over the year we've noticed regular popping noises and now we're seeing cracks in the drywall in the finished basement and screw pops on the main floor. After purchase we also discovered that the underground drainage system was blocked up by tree roots so we had that replaced and a company came in and mortared some minor (less than 1/8 inch) cracks in the foundation. There are two walls of the finished basement that we haven't opened up yet so we're not 100% sure what's going on with those walls.

Lots of drywall blemishes like this on the first floor, with the worst ones all along the same wall.

In the finished basement we've got cracks at all the seams where walls meet ceiling.

More basement fun.

So the question becomes this - have we reached the point of being alarmed? Should I just treat is as cosmetic for now and fix the drywall as I see fit or go for broke and throw in with some contractors? None of the cracks we can actually see in the basement foundation walls appear to have moved at all over the winter. The companies I've called regarding this sort of thing gave me the gamut of answers and estimates, and I honestly don't trust anyone with any financial incentive to give a true answer.


texts: What should I use to seal the ball rod on a pop-up sink drain plug?

texts:
I had to replace the ball rod assembly on a bathroom sink's pop-up drain since the old rod had corroded badly. I used a universal replacement kit that came with balls of several sizes and one very flimsy washer to seal the interface between the ball and the tightening nut. While trying to tighten the nut down for the first time, I cracked the washer, possibly by over tightening the nut.

Now I have a ball rod assembly that leaks around the ball. What is an appropriate way to seal that interface? The first idea that I had was to try a rubber O ring as a gasket. A #10 ring seems to fit well inside the nut, but it doesn't stay in place well when I tighten it (it tends to wrap itself around the ball somewhat, not staying in the joint between the ball and nut). It seems like some sort of rubber gasket would be the most sturdy solution, but I'm a bit out of my element.

Sorry if I mangled any terminology above; plumbing is definitely not my day job!


texts: Does water dripping through my soffit indicate a problem?

texts:
When it rains, water drips through the soffit and along the inside face of the fascia. This picture shows the water dripping through, but when it rains harder sometimes there's more:

My landlord just installed that aluminum soffit. Above it is solid plywood. This is at the valley of an L-shaped gabled roof.

Is this a problem? It's not a ton of water and I haven't noticed any leaks inside the house, but it seems to me like there shouldn't be any water in there. The gutters have been recently cleaned and there's no debris in them.

EDIT: added a few more photos

Here are two shots of the valley in question from above, plus another shot of a different gutter to show the construction and condition of the roof.

The shingles are approximately 4 years old, on top of an older layer (maybe more? hard to tell). There doesn't seem to be a drip edge. The shingles extend over the fascia and into the gutter by about 1".


texts: Can I wire a GFCI so that each receptacle is controlled by it's own switch? This is for a water fountain pump and light. Diagrams, please.


texts:
I've always heard that you shouldn't flush baby wipes because

They don't dissolve in your septic system
They can clog old pipes.

I currently live in a modern, multi-story apartment building. There is no septic system and only a few inches of pipe between the toilet bowl and the main sewage line. In what ways can wipes possibly damage this system?


texts: Can I wire my guest bathroom on one circuit?

texts:
I am remodeling a small bathroom attached to a guest bedroom and I am wondering if I can wire the whole thing on one branch circuit.

The bathroom is divided into two parts:

a 5x5 room, behind a door, with just a toilet and a shower.  This part has an overhead LED light and a wall-mounted fan.

just outside the 5x5 room, a sink with a mirror.  This part has two wall-mounted lamps, one on each side of the mirror, and a GFCI receptacle.

Can all of this be wired safely and code-compliant on one circuit?  Would I use 12 AWG wire throughout, and a GFCI breaker at the panel?

Thanks!


texts: How to put furniture against a painted wall without the paint sticking?

texts:
I'm replacing the plumbing in my bathroom. I took the vanity away from the wall for access to the pipes. When I removed the cabinet, some paint and drywall came with it. The cabinet's back was made of masonite (or something similar) and had bonded to the latex wall paint.

No big problem; I was going to repair/repaint that area anyway. But now I need to put the vanity back :)

I plan on replacing the vanity completely with a pedestal sink in a year or two. I would rather not have to mess with the wall again.

Is there some way I can protect my new drywall and paint from similar damage this time? A plastic sheet? Wax paper? Something else?


texts: How to interpret UL listing for NM Clamps stating diameter?

texts:
Most NM electrical clamps specifically list the wire combinations they allow, but others such as halex 90515 simply list a bundle diameter range (.835"-1.520")

Does that mean that I can use as many wires as I like provided they sum to within that range?


texts:
I want to build a 4'6" bed 6' up in the air which will be attached to the walls of my bedroom on two sides (so three corners of bed attached to wall) and have a wood 'leg' coming from the ceiling beam to the bed for the fourth corner. One wall is a chimney breast so 3'6" of the length of the bed will not have wall to attach to. The other wall is not load bearing so I would be attaching to its joists.

Has anyone ideas of how thick the wood would need to be? I hope to have the slats going straight to the edge of the bed to save room as my room is tiny. I thought of perhaps using 3" x 1" attached to walls and across to 'leg' and at least 3" x 3" for the 'leg'.

This bed is for adults not children.

I was thinking I might need to spread the hanging load by attaching wood across two or three ceiling beams and hanging the leg from that. Does that sound like a good plan or is the whole thing ridiculous?


texts: How to run conduit from external wall into basement cellar

texts:
Context:
So I have recently had solar panels installed in a historic home and ran the electrical conduit from my roof down into the existing ingress into the ConEd and electrical panels in the front of the townhome.  This is just like all the other historical townhouses on my block and in my neighborhood.  Unfortunately, landmarks commission rejected the conduit saying it was in the front facade and that my neighbors were grandfathered into their existing conduits in the front and I would not be allowed to add a new one.  Thus, they want me to reroute to the back of the house facade.  My choice is to either do a community board appeal or figure out how to route it through the back of the building. It's been difficult to get the original solar installers along with construction work during the COVID stoppage so I'm trying to figure out the level of effort to run it through the back and get it inspected again by both the city and the landmarks commission vs going through the rigamarole of appeal.

My question are around my options for getting conduit into the basement from the exterior:

I have a chimney from the roof to the water heaters in the basement with dual "clay-lined tubes" which I recently renovated, relining one with steel and blocking the other off at the basement.  Can I re-purpose the unused clay lined chimney and run my metal conduit into the basement and have it be up to code?
I can just create an ingress through the thick brick wall in back, but would I have to pull up the stone flooring in the backyard to dig a trench to get to the basement level and drill a hole below grade to run conduit?  Would that cause possible moisture leaks into the basement - it's pretty dry currently and I don't want to introduce a new way for water to get in.
Would I punch through from the ground floor wall above grade and then punch down through the interior floor into the basement?  I have finished walls and a finished basement ceiling so that would require a lot of cutting and messing with walls and ceilings and paint and interior work.  I do see an existing framed and finished run on the wall for a dryer vent from the basement to the outside which would save me from cutting into the interior floor if I can just open that part of the interior wall.  Can I run a conduit alongside a rigid dryer vent in the same wall framed cavity?  Would the conduit need to be insulated?

Which of these options seems like the least effort and risk.


texts: What size cap do I need for this steam pipe?

texts:
I'd like to put a cap on this steam pipe, but the standard cap sizes don't seem to fit -- a 2" cap is way too big and a 1.5" cap is slightly too small:

There is a very faint "1 1/4" engraved on the T-joint. That doesn't make sense to me, because if a 1.5" cap is too small, then a 1.25" cap should also be too small.

Is there a trick to matching pipe sizes (or to getting the almost-right 1.5" cap to fit) that I'm missing?


texts: Why were only some of my tools damaged when connected to a 240V receptacle?

texts:
I live in the US and recently bought a home.  There are several electrical outlets in my garage.  I have recently had two tools that have burned up and gone to an early grave.  It turns out that the previous owner put in a 220 volt outlet but used a 20 amp 110 receptacle.  I figured this out after my shop vac motor burned-up and died.  Also, my belt sander emitted sparks, flames, and died.  A quick check with a multimeter determined that some goof ball put 220 into a standard outlet designed for 110v.

Of course, I will be wiring this outlet correctly.  For now, it is covered with tape.

So, here is my question.  Some tools, like my air compressor and table saw were not damaged by this outlet.  I used the outlet for these tools and they don't seem like they were harmed.  Why did some tools die and others survive ? ?  Is it a difference between brushed and brushless motors ? ?


texts:
I'm removing a sliding shower door frame (tub-mounted) and had no problem getting the top and sides off. Then I started on the bottom portion attached to the tub. Cut through the caulk and went as deep as I could (not very) with a blade. The bottom frame is attached very tight... couldn't get a skinny pry bar or anything else into the crack. Tried yanking and pulling/pushing - didn't budge. No idea how it was attached!
I was thinking about using a hacksaw on multiple smaller sections, which might give me a better chance of success of pulling off pieces. Can anyone offer any ideas?


texts: How do I fix a chrome bathroom faucet comprimised by toilet bowl cleaner

texts:
I used toilet bowl cleaner and a toothbrush and it started to turn like this. is there something I can use to fix it. I don't know what to do,
I need help I think this is a chrome faucet I don't know for sure.
How do I fix this.


texts: Quantitative measurement for sound dampening methods

texts: I'm planning to finish off my basement.  Which type of basement ceiling insulation is most effective at reducing sound transfer between levels, blown in cellulose or rock wool batts and how much more effective is one versus the other?  Where can I get quantitative measurements?  I'm not considering closed-cell spray foam insulation as that is too costly for my project.


texts: What is this 4-1/2 inch Vertical metal pipe doing in my garden?

texts:
This 4 1/2 inch vertical metal pipe is sticking up a foot out of my garden.
The previous owner of the property didn't know what it was for.  It has 2 hose clamps on it and a cap with a square nipple.
The city utilities don't have a record of its existence.
I want to take it out, but I also want to get as much info as I can about it before I accidentally bust a necessary fixture. Also, there is another building with all utilities on the back of my property. House on property was built in 1983, if that helps.  All the relevant utility companies have said it is not theirs.
Anybody ever work with something like it?
UPDATE -- Definitely Drain Cleanout.  I loosened the hose clamps and the top came right off and I could see "liquid" about 3-1/2 feet down.


texts: Help with modified LP grill - how to take apart

texts:
I inherited this Williams Sonoma SGIR27lp grill, came with a house we moved in. It is modified, instead of the grille and burners on the top, there is just a large stone/granite (?) plate. I managed to find a manual online, but it only has basic installation procedures. I am fairly handy, but have no experience with repairing grills.
The large plate is glued with some super-strong cement/epoxy, I've been trying to cut underneath for an hour, but cannot separate it from the body. The body itself is all riveted, not a single screw that could help disassemble it from underneath. Ok, now to the specific questions:
(a) any idea how to separate the top, in order to see what's left of the burner mechanism? or to disassemble from the bottom?
(b) there is a metal pipe in the back, seemingly cut... (see the pic). what is it for?


texts: Have four-conductor feed at detached garage subpanel, how to verify the ground?

texts:
I'm currently rewiring my new-to-me detached garage. Garage is from the 70's but has a newer Siemens panel (previous owners added a hot tub).  The feed from my service panel is a sheathed 4 conductor cable in buried conduit, but both ground and neutral are bonded on the neutral bar.  Hmm, ok well I lucked out and have the 4c feed, so I can just add ground bars and get the neutral and ground separated per code, right?

Here's where I'm a bit confused.  I went to the service panel to just lay eyes on the same four conductors, but I only have the two hots and neutral there.  The green ground wire is nowhere to be seen. Looks very much like the same cable, was looking to see if ground was snipped at the clamp but can't see any evidence of it.

I found this thread: Is my ground correct at my subpanel?

... which describes some techniques for checking out the ground on a subpanel.  As described there, I disconnected the feed neutral and ground conductors in my garage and put my meter across them- no resistance.  So the ground conductor in my garage has continuity back the neutral in the service panel, but I don't know how!

And now, my question: Beyond what I've done so far, how much should I do to verify this ground before separating neutrals and grounds in my subpanel?  I'd think I'd like to know it's something substantial and not accidental.  Is it possible it's tied to the conduit somewhere, and the conduit to the chassis of my main panel?  I suppose I could tear out some drywall above the main panel to see what I can see.

Odds and ends:

-There's one access on the conduit where it enters the house- nothing interesting in there, just same sheathed cable.

-The subpanel and garage does have two GEC spiked into the earth behind the garage away from the house.

-Conduit leaving the garage is PVC, metal entering the house.

Thanks for any advice.


texts:
I have a number of 2x12’s that have been exposed to Florida weather for about 8 years.
Because they have not warped, I wonder if I can expect them to remain relatively straight as deck boards?
I do not know the wood species, not yellow pine though.


texts:
We moved into our house a few years back, and just now the sump pump started to make loud rattling noise when running. It is as if someone is banging on the pipes with a large piece of metal.

I have not been able to watch it run and witness the issue because it takes forever to fill the sump with water. I tried probing the pump, the pipes and whatever is around it, but everything looked solid.

Has anybody of you had that issue? Is that something I could fix on my own or do I need to call a plumber? What could that be so I have something to explain to the plumber if it comes to calling one?


texts: Why is my hot water running out quickly regardless of other household water usage?

texts:
I've noticed that my shower, which used to run hot water for what seemed like forever, now can only produce about 15 minutes of hot water. This doesn't appear to be related to other water usage in the house.

What are the possible causes of this? Could there be a leak in my water heater, etc?


texts: Light bulb spins in recessed but won't unscrew

texts: I had a bulb that spins in recessed light can, it won't unscrew, how do I get it out?


texts: Can I run NM 12 ga circuits on a running board or MultiCable Staples across floor joists use in a basement with an unfinished ceiling?

texts:
The original wiring (1994) is along the best route where wires are stapled at the top of the interior wall plate above the finished drywall. I want to run 4 new circuits, but there is no room to staple new wire, and I don't wish to drill all the floor joists. Can I staple new wire to the bottom of a running board mounted perpendicular across the floor joists and about 6 inches away and parallel to the original run?

This is finished basement with an unfinished ceiling and the run area is where the plumbing, air etc. also run across the joists and hang well below the proposed running board. I consider to be not subject to damage. While unlikely that the ceiling will ever be finished in this area, any ceiling would have to be installed at least 6 inches inches below any wiring to clear the existing services.

If so what would be the required staple spacing on the running board?  As an alternative, can I secure the new wire to the bottom of the running board using a plastic MultiCable Staple (NEC 300-4-(d) compliant) which snaps closed, or are these only for horizontal or vertical cable support, you know, not cable supported hanging down?

If I decide to drill the joists, can you give me a guide for the max number of cables (12ga NM) through one hole, what size hole for x number of cables gives good clearance, and avoids "bundling" concerns, and are any grommets and what kind are required though timber joists? I know about drilling center and so on.

Also, the original wiring occasionally put two wires under a single staple where room was scarce. Are max 2 wires under a staple still permitted when necessary, and would a preferred method be to stagger which 2 wires are under one staple, i.e. not run the same 2 wires continuously under one staple to avoid bundling over more then 24"? I live in Western MA.