texts: Need to separate 2 lights on the same 3way switch so each switch only controls 1 light

texts:
I've been researching this for about 8 months and finally learned enough to be able to ask my question properly.
Background: Bought a house last summer that was built in 1966 but since renovated maybe 10-20 years ago. The kitchen has a 3way switch which controlled 2 ceiling dome lights, one in the middle of the kitchen and one over the breakfast table area. Each switch is in a 2-gang. Switch A (diagrammed below) is ganged with a single pole, dining room dimmable light. Switch B is ganged with an single pole switch for an outdoor light (also see below).
What I've done so far: I have replaced one light with a track-lighting... and the other ceiling light I replaced with a small ceiling fan w/light. The 3way switches turn BOTH on at the same time, that has not been altered yet.
One issue I noticed: Once in a while the fan w/light will turn off and immediately back on again. It sometimes happens every 5 minutes, I assume too much load on the kitchen circuit maybe.
What I ultimately want to do: I want switch A to only control the track-lighting. I want switch B to only control the ceiling fan w/light. I want to know what I need to do. I can't tell if the lights are in series or in parallel with each other.
Diagram: Here is the existing wire diagram of both switches.


texts:
I have what seems to be a strange, but hopefully easily solved problem. I have a Rheem Warrior series electric hot water heater in my mobile home.
My husband is installing a new shower and we could not find the shut off on the heater, so we had to shut the main valve off under our home.
Days later, we have plenty of hot water, but the cold is, lets say at half pressure.
We have shut the main off and on a couple times, hoping that would do the trick, but no luck! I'm going to try cutting the power to the heater next to see what that does.
I feel like this should have an easy solution and really don't want to call a plumber for something so silly! Any ideas would be appreciated!


texts: How do I repair a floor joist which has a hole drilled less than 2 inches from the bottom?

texts: I have three floor joists that have approximately 1/2 inch hole in them less than 2 inches from the bottom. Is there a recommended fix or approved method to correct this to meet code?  These joists are in excellent condition otherwise. Someone drilled through them years ago to run cable through. There are other holes above 2 inches on other joists.


texts: What (if any problems) will happen if a T8 bulbs are used with T5 ballasts?


texts: What could go wrong if I use my claw hammer as a cross peen hammer?

texts:
I'm trying to sharpen a scythe blade. I'm supposed to strike the edge to flatten it. I'm supposed to strike it with a cross peen hammer. But I don't have one. Can I use my claw hammer instead with no adverse effect?

If there is a downside, what is it? Is it more likely to damage the scythe blade I'm striking or the hammer? Or will it work just about the same?


texts:
I have created a playhouse deck that is 8'x 8' and 5' off the ground. It is supported by 10' 4x4s on all four corners.

I want to place a 12' beam across the top of two of 4x4s in order to place a simple climbing rope.

Question:
Are there any charts or other guidance that I can use to determine:
1) Is this possible?
2) How much bracing is needed?


texts: What paint to use on polystyrene ceiling rose

texts: Does anyone know what kind of paint to use on a polystyrene ceiling rose? Thank you


texts: Is a disposer required for dishwasher permanent installation?

texts:
Just wondering, since I haven't seen a house in decades that had a dishwasher but didn't have a sink-drain grinder.

I have heard that connecting it this way is partly done so there's an air gap between dishwasher and drains, and I'm guessing that installing without the macerator might require a vacuum breaker or something of that sort... but I'd sorta liks to know for sure.

(My place has both, but I'd really be just as glad to jettison the macerator.)


texts: Can I Use 4" CPVC Pipe for a Dryer vent?

texts: Can I use 4" CPVC pipe to extend a dryer vent in my garage?


texts: recently I noticed a portion of my floor that seems to be bulging. I imagine it might be because the weather has been warming up (Central Texas) causing all of the stress on the floor to gather at this point. Could this be the case? Can I possibly fix this? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.


texts: Reducing traffic noise in front and back yard

texts:
Our rural house is located 200 yards from an interstate highway overpass.  House is parralel to interstate, and overpass is located near a corner of property.  How can we reduce the noise entering the yard?

Specifics:

Most of the noise comes from the beneath overpass
Eucalyptus and oak trees block about 40% visibility of the interstate
No fencing exists between interstate and house
Exterior wall facing the interstate reflects noise back into the yard
Nearest neighbor is 300 yards away
House is very quiet inside, but yard is very loud

My own ideas:

Build up 6' berm of dirt on edge of property, close to interstate, and erect an 8' a 7' wooden fence on top of that
Plant a row of oleander close to interstate
Build a fence that completely blocks visibility of overpass

Another concern:

If a fence is recommended, should it be located closer to interstate, or closer to house?


texts: I’m having trouble figuring out how to replicate this texture.


texts: Are there any serious dangers to using manual tools?

texts:
Recently, I had to fix some things around the house, without access to my usual electric tools. I found that the manual tools, such as a crank drill and a handsaw, are quite efficient, and I can no longer see much of an advantage to using their electric equivalents, electric drills and electrical circular saws. One thing that speeds up the work is these manual tools are lighter and I do not have to worry about running out of batteries or running cords around the house.

And more importantly, I can feel much relief working with tools that seem to be much safer. I think with a circular saw, one could easily cut off several fingers at once, in a split second. A spinning electrical drill could cause the similar damage in a short time.

At worst, I think a manual drill or handsaw would just cause a cut, requiring a band aid. I cannot imagine a manual tool causing damage requiring a trip to a hospital. Are there dangers to these manual tools that I do not realize?


texts:
How do I repair a crack in a brick windowsill?   I assume that it needs to be sealed to prevent water from getting in, especially during the winter when it could freeze.

The other side of the window has a similar crack that was repaired by the previous owner of our house.

It appears they may have used some sort of epoxy.   Is that what I should do for the other side as well?   If so where do I get it and how do I use it?


texts: What code book do I refer to to find the proper repair for a broken wooden floor joist in Arkansas?

texts: The sister joist was not installed properly and the floor is sagging; trying to convince boss it is truly an issue that simply "hitting the sister joist with a sledge hammer" won't fix..please send me in the right direction.  Need to be able to quote something more official than my opinion that the floor needs to be looked at by a structural engineer or, at the very least, the floor jacked back up and the joist replaced.


texts: Ceiling junction box not hooked up to switch?

texts:
I recently moved into a new place. The master bedroom has a unused junction box in the ceiling and a wall switch that is definitely hooked up to one wall outlet (both top and bottom). I figured, a ceiling fixture would be best overall for the room, so I bought and installed a basic ceiling light fixture.

I was assuming the switch was also connected to the ceiling. Do I have any possible ways to remedy the situation (while still using a ceiling fixture)?


texts:
I've been struggling getting a simple drip water system running.

I don't think the specific brand matter, but I'm using Rain Drip components from Lowe's.

I have 10 rose planters I'm trying to connect together. I'm using a faucet mounted timer/pressure regulator.

The system comprises of 1/4" tubing, with assorted outlets: drippers, "bubblers", sprays. I cut the tubing, insert barbed T-connectors, and then use short (3-4") tubes to reach the outlets. The last item in the chain is just connected straight to the tube. All of the tubes are the same (vs a 1/2" feeder to 1/4" branches).

I tried working with the drippers, but it was inconsistent. I've since switched to sprayers. These are small, adjustable sprayers and cast water out in 8 or 10 streams (vs a classic sprinkler head that actually sprays).

But, simply, I don't get consistent pressure across the system. The first sprayer is "ok", but the rest mostly just gurgle along regardless of how I adjust them.

I've tried removing the timer to use the full pressure of the house water, and it didn't make any difference.

This all seems just far too complicated for such a simple system. Cut the tube, plug in the fitting, move on. I don't believe it's clogged with anything but, honestly while the system is pretty trivial to put together, taking it apart is a real pain (most likely a feature, not a bug long term -- but short term, it's pain).

So, I feel like I must be missing something fundamental to these drip systems.

I guess what I should do next is go to each sprayer, remove the head, and turn it on and see if I get the same height from each one. But I can use any advice from folks with more experience with these systems.


texts:
I have a panel of type XO circuit breakers in my house. One of them has failed closed (!) and I need to replace it.

However, a few minutes on Google seems to indicate that this type of breaker is no longer produced. A few sites sell refurbished ones, but other forums mention that this is also problematic. If I buy a refurb breaker, how do I test it to make sure it is good?


texts: Do I bond an Air Admittance Valve to the pipe?

texts:
I have a drain pipe in my laundry room. It runs into a sewage drain that I imagine is in the slab. I had the local building inspector come check it out. I haven't investigated enough; but we both believe that this line does not include venting outside of the house.

The inspector told me I needed to add an Air Admittance Valve (AAV) before the two traps (sink + washer) on this drain.

I've never worked with this plastic. It may be PVC (it's white'ish -- could double-check).

Do I need to add some sort of a glue or bond when I attach the AAV (it's threaded)? If so, is there anything special I should use? Or just something compatible with the plastic?

Note: Since this valve depends on the air pressure, I assume it has to be air tight. That's what lead me to asking this question. The guy at Home Depot wasn't very helpful.


texts: What is this low voltage power supply leading into the wall?

texts:
I found this in the back-corner of our second-floor closet:

Presumably this is not to code. Has anyone seen anything like this before, or have any ideas what it's for?  Unplugging it doesn't seem to have broken anything, and there aren't any small electronics on any of the nearby walls.


texts: Clothes Dryer electrical 240v between hot and netural, 0 between other hot and neutral

texts:
I had to move around my dryer to do some work in my laundry room.  When I plugged it back in, it wouldn't turn on at all.  None of the buttons would even make the lights come on.

I unscrewed the end of the cord from the dryer and checked it with my multimeter.  120v (ish) between each hot and the neutral (3 conductor no ground) and 240v (ish) between the hots, as expected.

When I screw it back on to the dryer and check the voltage on the screws, however, I get 240 between one hot and the neutral as well as between the hots.  When I check between the other hot and the neutral, I get 0v.

I can't fathom how this can happen without a hot being shorted to the neutral.. but the breaker isn't popping and nothing is getting hot.

What the heck is going on?


texts: What is the most efficient way to connect 20 Lamps for my backyard?

texts:
So as the title says, I have bought 100 feet wire, 20 lamps and 20 lamp holders.

Each lamp is 110v and 3w, and my electrical source is 110v. I can't remember anything from electricity courses except that there is a serious and a parallel way of connecting to an electrical source.

What is my best approach here and how should I wire them? Taking into consideration that they should look nice. Diagrams are best!


texts: What is involved in installing a free-standing electric oven range?

texts: My current oven just plugs into a big outlet in the wall. It's a giant three-pronged outlet. But all I need to do to get the oven to work (when it works) is to plug it into the outlet.  I am now ordering a new oven online, since the old one has broken. They offer an installation service, but money is tight and I don't want to buy it if not necessary.  I have people to help me lift the oven if it's just about lifting the oven, and people to take away the old oven. But will there be electrical issues to deal with, or will the new oven just have a plug and plug into the wall like the old one?


texts: Stack Effect and an open top floor window

texts:
I have recently had an energy audit for my home and discovered a large amount of air leakage.  As a result I have learned about Stack Effect, and how it impacts a home's ability to retain warm or cool air, and as a result it's energy requirements.

I wonder what the impact of an open top floor window would have on Stack Effect.  Would a single window change the flow of air in the home enough to cause or exacerbate stack effect, given a home that is appropriately insulated and air sealed?


texts: Powerline Adapters and non-grounded outlets

texts:
I have a powerline adapter connected to an outlet on the main floor of my house. There I have my PS4’s ethernet connected. The other adapter is upstairs where the router is.

Over the last several weeks, I’ve begun to lose connectivity via the ethernet; wi-fi is fine. Ethernet worked great for a long time, but now the disconnection issues are becoming more common.

Now, my powerline is connected to a non-grounded outlet. I know this because I have a power bar connected to the outlet as well, and the grounded light is off.

So my question is, because my powerline isn’t connected to a grounded outlet, is it not getting enough power for the connection to work? Or is it more than likely to be the ethernet cable?

I’m more concerned with the former, as I really don’t want to call an electrician.


texts: Vintage help: How to install a 1902 pedestal sink

texts: My wife found this gorgeous vintage china Trenton Potteries sink she'd like to install in a bathroom. It's big (32"X 22") and we're trying to figure out how to support it. It has no holes in the back for wall-hanging. We haven't been able to find this exact one in any old catalogs, but it looks like these sinks were often sold with the option of using legs and/or brackets as well as a pedestal. I've looked at vintage sink brackets that looks like the ones that were used at the time (see example in photo) but can't figure out how they would attach to the sink. I've also read that, back then, these sinks were sold with some sort of metal rod that ran down the pedestal to the floor, but haven't been able to find anything like that now, even on eBay. I've also read that sometimes they just rested on the plumbing (this one looks like it might have had two drains) but our pipes run to the wall. (She'd also like to restore the original drain mechanism, but that's a hope for another post.) We'd like to avoid using legs if at all possible. Anyone with vintage pedestal sink experience have any ideas?


texts: When wiring outlets should I use pigtails or both sets of outlet screws?

texts:
I'm replacing the outlets in our house and pulled out one that had two black and two white cables. My first thought was that it was two circuits, one of them being switched, but then realized the tab between the two circuits wasn't broken.

I hadn't seen this before, but I guess it makes sense. I suppose it's an alternative to pig tailing the wires in the box. Is there an argument to choose one method over the other? Or are they both perfectly valid option?


texts: Does the gas water heater in my laundry room require a dedicated vent?

texts:
I have been told recently by a potential buyer of my home that due to the gas hot water heater in my utility room,  with electric washer and dryer, that I need separate venting to bring it up to code. The room has two outside windows, and the door opens into my dining room. I live in Texas.

My own contractor who remodeled this old home 3 years ago mentioned nothing of this.  What type of venting is he speaking of?


texts: Can Old wiring be safe to run high currents through?

texts: The electrical wiring in my house has two ages. Half the house has wiring from back in 1963 and the other half has wiring from 1986. Conveniently, my room runs on the older wiring. It's due for change but I'm gonna have to convince some people to allow me to get it done. My room runs on a 20A amp breaker and currently I have about 5-9A in use. I'm gonna be adding some equipment to the room which would bring the current usage up to 15A running 24/7. Would it be safe to say that this old af wiring would handle it or should I get an electrician to change my wiring one time?


texts: How do I repair improperly backed shower tile?

texts:
Noticed some grout voids in shower tile, scraped away to re-grout and found bottom row of tiles had some wiggle. Figured I should assess underlying cause and removed tiles.

What was under the tiles was a dry-papery substance and behind that some course powdery bits, maybe just dried out mastic. House was built in the 70's, not sure of conventions at the time or if it was tiled since.

The gap shown seems problematic, but do I need to cut away material and apply new backerboard, or should I just put a little moisture barrier over this section to protect the gap? I'd like to avoid re-tiling the whole shower for now as will be doing that in the next few years, but also want to fix it properly so that it will last a while.  Any thoughts?


texts: How should I unstick an old gas appliance valve?

texts:
There is an old gas pipe for a dryer unit that hasn't been used in maybe 15-20 years. The pipe seems to be of good integrity (as good as anything else in the house) however the valve which is currently perpendicular to the pipe (closed position) is stuck.  It may be painted shut but I can imagine that there may also be corrosion at the pivot joint.

I have only tried moving it by hand. I plan to chip and scrub away any paint that I think may interfere with turning. Then wasn't sure what sort of lubricant to use and if I should try a gorilla wrench or avoid any tools?

I assume there is no flint and steel in the ball valve that I should worry about (kidding). But seriously, wondering if the ball itself could fail when I crank the valve if there is corrosion gluing it.  Currently in the closed position no gas coming out so it's doing its job.


texts: which comes first painting walls or stippling the ceiling

texts:
Hope that someone can help me. I am scrapping the popcorn off my ceiling. I will be doing a knockdown. Should I paint the walls before the stippling?

Thanks.


texts: Supporting Shower Mixer with Silicone - is this acceptable?

texts:
I recently asked a plumber to fit a new shower. For some reason he used a large lump of silicone to support the middle of the shower:

Is this acceptable? Is it safe? Whenever I move the shower handle the whole shower flexes and the pipework moves back and forward. See this video:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7AFK9NIKSRNa0RGdmU2a3diR1E

I don't know why he did this. The shower is supposed to look like this:

Edit: Here is a link to the shower's instruction manual http://wickes.scene7.com/is/content/travisperkins/Mixer-Showers-Wickes-Classic-Manual-Mixer-Shower-Adjustable-Riser-Kit-Chrome-White~T3274_190463_TECH_0


texts: What are my lighting options for a pole-barn garage?

texts:
I just added on to my pole-barn garage, it now has 1500 square feet. There is a single flourecent (and door opener) lighting it currently. I would like to add some serious lighting as I work on my cars, and do woodworking in there, unlike the previous owner.

The ceiling height goes from 12-16', is this too short for high bay lighting?

Is there something more economical than high-bay?


texts: How can I repair drywall which has bowed away from the framing?

texts:
I was getting ready to tile my basement bathroom and noticed the wall wasn't as flat as I expected.  I cut in a hole to take a look and got a nasty surprise.  The drywall in my bathroom was glued to the studs rather than screwed.  As the house settled over the past 50 years, the paper backing on the drywall tore off at the glued spots leaving a 1-2.5" large gap where it has bowed outwards from compression.
I've been able to use drywall screws to get the upper parts of the drywall properly secured to the studs but as I work my way down the bow out is too significant and the screws just pull through.
I had been thinking of trimming the bottom edge of the drywall to allow for some downward give.  It wouldn't be visible due to baseboards but I'm not sure if that would create moisture issues in the long run.
Do I have any options other than tearing the drywall down and redoing it?


texts: I want to Increase the width of my kitchen by 2 feet, Is it possible?

texts:
My house is under construction and have just completed concreting the ground floor ceiling and now under curing. First floor work will start after 15 days.
The kitchen size is 9ft x 11ft and would like to increase the size by 2ft towards utility which is now measuring 6ft x 11 ft.
Do I need to make a new foundation next the old foundation wall to extend the kitchen wall ?
Please advice

Thanks
Mathew


texts:
I need to remove a section of 3" copper, and replace it. Has anyone ever done this with a single Mapp gas torch? I'm not sure if its going to have enough heat to get it done. I probably could get it out without too much of a fuss, I just want to have a bit more confidence I can sweat the new one back in without making a mess.

I'd think it could be done with a pair of Mapp torches, but its probably generally done with acetylene?


texts: How can I insulate my attic conversion, without pulling down the plasterboard?

texts:
I recently purchased a house, and it has an attic conversion. Once winter came along we found out that there is no insulation between the roof and the plasterboard.

Does anyone know of a way I can get it insulated without pulling down all the plasterboard?


texts: I have two ceiling lights running off of a switch. When I replaced the first light I found that the neutral wire bundle was joined with the ground line.  If the ground wire is removed from the the neutral bundle then none of the outlets on that circuit will work.  What is going on? Is this right/safe?


texts: Well pump circuit keeps tripping the breaker

texts:
Our well pump motor was recently changed (it was making a huge racket, burning up switches one after the other etc. The bearings were going out). Smooth sound, no more burnt switches, water pressure is fine (the switch is a 40/60).

Before that, there were no problem with it tripping a breaker, it was in a bad shape, but it worked (even if, as previously mentioned, it was burning through switches.)

Now, we noticed it tripping a breaker in the evening only (so far), sometimes multiple times in a row, sometimes not. We live in an old house, but have a brand new breaker box. The pump supplies this house and a small trailer where a couple of tenants live.

As far as electrical circuit configuration goes, we do not know whether or not the pump lives on its own breaker (a 20A single pole as far as I can tell) or shares it with something else. So far it doesn't seem like there is anything else on that breaker.

I'm thinking of sanding the hot wires going to the pump to get rid of the carbon deposit (they look pretty bad from that last burnt up switch) and getting a 30A single pole breaker to replace the 20A one. Is this a good idea? Any input is very appreciated.

Thanks.

EDIT 2: Possible solution?

According to my research, here's what should happen :

Get some 12 gauge wire
Get a 240V, 20A breaker
Hook up the pump and only the pump to that breaker

Anybody care to comment? Also, why is it apparently a no-no to wire a jet pump to 115?

EDIT: Motor specs

Old motor:

Volts: 115/230
Amps: 13.0/6.5
Max Load: 16.2/8.1

New motor:

Volts: 115/230
Amps: 12.4/6.2
Max Load: 16.2/8.1


texts: Why won't my kitchen sink drain? Disposal is working but when I run it water backs up into single sink

texts:
When I run my kitchen sink disposal, it sounded odd earlier today (after I put watermelon rind down it, idiot I guess), but tonight when I ran it, the disposal seems to work fine but the water will not drain. When the disposal is running, it seems to suck the water down into it, but when I turn it off, the water shoots back into the sink.

I unscrewed the P trap, and all looks fine.
I have a 30" drain snake, which I snaked into the pipe that goes into the wall. It came back with black greasy film but nothing else obvious.

Now that I put the P trap back together, the same thing is happening in the sink. Disposal runs but water does not drain and gets kicked back into sink when I turn off the disposal.


texts: Drywall installation vertical or horizontal?

texts:
Should we install drywall sheets horizontally or vertically if we screw them on horizontal furs?
I know the question has been asked on this site in the past and I remember Iggy's answer (see below), but then I wonder if we should not install the panels horizontally on horizontal furs for reason #2 given by Iggy’s answer?

Iggy’s Answer:
Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically?

  Vertical Only, here’s the proof & truth!

  Why and How Horizontal’s Wrong (and why Vertical’s right)...don’t ruin
  new from the start:

  1 – Defective Seam ...

  2 – Unsupported Seam – Horizontal’s tapered edge is 90% unsupported, only 10% (instead of Vertical's 100%) contacts framing,
  the seam will and does crack. Light switch and countertop
  electrical boxes within the seam equals more weakness and butt-joint
  doubled, minimum, efforts.

  3 – Structural Defect - ...


texts: Why does my roof heater consistently trip the circuit breaker?

texts:
I have two roof heaters, each on its own circuit. It's been about a month since I used them, but the last time they were switched on they both worked well.

This morning I switched them both on when it started snowing. One of them stayed on, but the other now immediately tripped the circuit breaker. That's happened intermittently in the past, and was resolved by resetting the circuit breaker. This time resetting the circuit breaker doesn't work. I reset the circuit breaker 5 times, and each time as soon as I turned the roof heater back on it tripped the circuit breaker.

Any idea how I can find out why this is happening, and how to fix it?


texts: Toilet won't fill if water supply is on high

texts:
The fill valve on my new toilet guts shuts off instantly if the water  supply knob  is turned on all the way. FYI my knob only turns a quarter turn to have the  water on all the way.

It literally shuts off within one second of flushing and obviously no water fills the tank.

I have to shut the water supply valve under the toilet off and back on part way to get the toilet to fill. When the water shuts off I also get the hammer sound. I have tried two different fill valves  in two days and the same thing occurs with both.

The modern style float is not even touching the water as the toilet might get 100 ml

The type of valve is the kind with no ball float, its the new style


texts: How can I repair scratches in engineered hardwood floors?

texts:
I have two large dogs, of which one has nails that any woman would kill for, and the energy of a nuclear power plant.  My home's primary living areas are all hardwood floors:  kitchen, bath, living room, dining room, and staircases.  I have an open floor plan.

My hardwood floors are engineered Bruce Oak with a high gloss finish have areas that are severely scratched and grooved from the dogs' nails.  Around columns and corners the finish is gone from my female dog who runs laps up and down the stairs and around the breakfast table and snack bar area.  I have had so many unqualified friends give me advice on repairing these areas that I am very confused on what to do.

Can anyone tell me what is the best way to fill these groves below the finish and put the finish back down without having a professional come in to do it?  I am fairly self sufficient and do a lot of my own home improvements.  I can fix almost anything except the furnace and have done everything from auto, appliance, and home repairs for friends as well as myself.

I just need to know what the best filler/putty or compound is for filling, and what type of polyurethane I should use.  I would also like some type of technical assistance, step by step, on how to do the repairs.


texts: Why would my zone controller be displaying error: AC voltage insufficient?

texts:
Our AC unit was new with our house and is only 7 years old. We have a split zone system controlled by a Honeywell HZ322. Today we had no AC so I started looking at possible issues. When I got to the controller test, the AC test clicks a few times, on the controller, and says "AC voltage insufficient". The heat and fan will test fine.

If there is enough voltage for the fan and heat, how is it that only the AC is out? Is there a fuse for each area of the unit. One fuse each for fan, AC, heat, and so on? I am only seeing one.

I am familiar with electronics. Multi-meters and such so if you have any of those ideas feel free to post them.


texts:
I have an office chair where the locking mechanism needs tightening. I think the right way to do it is turning this nut, but the problem is that the space is so tight that if I get an adjustable or open-end wrench in I can't turn it. Is there some kind of specialist tool for this kind of job? I think some kind of very thin open-end wrench with a ratchet on the open end could be what I need, but they seem expensive and hard to find.

EDIT: As you can see in the image, it is a very tight fit with an open-ended wrench and there are some metal rods the wrench hits that limits the range of motion even more.


texts: How can I prevent reverse air flow from bathroom fan?

texts: I have a second floor bathroom that has a ventilation fan which exits to the roof. Whenever I take a shower there is an incredible amount of freezing air (midwest winter) that is coming in through the bathroom fan (not running because the bathroom door is open). How can I prevent this? The simple solution would seem like just turning the fan on but there is still a really cold draft that whirls about the shower area (enclosed shower stall with open top).


texts: No C terminal on furnace. Workarounds? Possible the AC?

texts: I'm Trying to connect my C wire to install a new thermostat but the furnace doesn't have a C terminal. In my readings on this I found that because I have an AC,I can connect my C to one of the wires coming from the AC unit as that is the AC's C. This would be cap 2 in the pic below. That wire connects to ground. Would this work for me?


texts: Installing 4 piece shower enclosure that's slightly too small

texts:
I am looking to install the Delta 400 shower system from Home Depot. I chose this system because the price and setup works well for my current situation.

Shower Pan

3-Piece Shower Surround

The issue I am having right now is that the rough-in needs to be 60"; however, my rough in is 60.75". Obviously, this isn't going to work as the shower pan won't be able to attach properly to the studs and the 3 piece enclosure will not properly butt up to the studs for a good fit. So far from my research this is that I have seen should be done.

Fur out one of the walls with .75 inch furring strips.
Attach everything now that the rough-in will be 60"
Create a small drywall return corner on the built out wall so that there will be about a 2-3 inch strip of drywall over the flange and .75 - 1 inch small strip of drywall cut out and placed in the small space caused by the furring out to create a tiny corner.

The only problem with furring out the entire wall is that on the right side I have a door and on the left I have a window. The wall with the door would be easier but I am unsure on how to extend a door jamb so that it would be flush.
Does this make sense or does anyone know of possibly a better way?

For reference here is the location that the enclosure will be going.


texts: Why are there bubbles in my bathroom toilet and sink?

texts:
I have had a lot of really odd things happen in my bathroom this weekend and I want to make sure it is nothing too serious.

Ok so when I was taking a shower I heard the toilet bubble up. A few minutes later I noticed that my shower drain was going slower than normal.

So when I was done with my shower I took a plunger to the shower and it pulled back some hair, etc.  I also noticed that when I flushed the toilet it did not want to drain quickly. I immediately turned the toilet off and then I also noticed that some of the water had backed up into shower.

With the hair I pulled out of the shower I figured I had a hair clog. I put some Drano down the shower to clear the hair and I don't have hair coming up when I plunge the shower now.

However I still have some really odd stuff happening in the bathroom. When the shower gets used for more than a few minutes, the toilet bubbles up and the shower drain slows down again. The shower will eventually drain (very slowly) and when the shower empties, the water in the toilet appears to drop until I can hear air coming in from the bottom. When I use the sink the toilet bubbles up and when I flush the toilet I hear what I assume is some bubbles coming up from the sink.

With a little research I have done on this it looks like it could be the drain pipe on my roof leaking or that my drain field is flooded (I live in Michigan and we have had a ton of rain over the last 3 weeks or so).

I guess I am wondering if both of these ideas are plausible and/or likely and if something like this warrants a calls to a plumber to have them investigate?


texts: How can I fix an uneven and damaged transition from drywall to tile in the bathroom?

texts:
We recently replaced some old, cracking shower walls in a bathtub area with tile. Looks great.  However, on one wall the drywall next to the tile bows out so it's not even with the tile in the middle section of the wall. That drywall edge also was damaged a bit as it was cut for placing the tile.

As you can see in the photo below the drywall sticks out about 1/4" - 1/2" on this part of the wall. There's only about 2 feet where it sticks out, the rest is even with the tile and looks nice. At minimum, the drywall needs to be fixed, but I'm a little worried about it getting damaged in the future.

What's the best way to fix and/or hide this? Our tile guy suggested running some sort of flexible molding the entire length of the transition to hide the gap.

The tile extends out past where the water will likely splash, so there won't be a lot of direct water on the transition but certainly humidity and some wetness, so I want to avoid further damage to the drywall.


texts: What is the best method for carrying a 4x8 by yourself over tough terrain?

texts:
I have to travel about a quarter mile through the wilderness, carrying a 4x8 each time to get to a remote building location. Some of the terrain can be tricky, otherwise I might fall in the water. Any ideas on the best way to carry a 4x8 panel?

I am imagining a clever backpack contraption.

Are there any tools, strategies, or methods one can recommend for achieving this?


texts: Do I need an emergency septic pumping or to have pipes cleaned when toilets flood after cleaning filter?

texts: I own a rental property with a septic tank built in 2010.  There are about 5 people living there and it was last pumped out 18 months ago.  Their toilets started flooding yesterday.  I dug out the solid waste tank and found the water level was up to the top, over the filter.  I fished out the filter and found it was certainly dirty but not obviously clogged. I cleaned it some.  While it was out the water level dropped below the level of the pipe containing the filter.  I put the filter back in and restored the cover.  Later last night the tenant said both toilets were flooding again, apparently from the bottom.  My questions are is this a pumping emergency or is the current problem that some pipe is still clogged and needs to be cleared?


texts: How much weight can a 2 by 4 support in this configuration?

texts:
I'm using dimensional lumber ( whitewood ) from Home Depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Dimensional-Lumber/N-5yc1vZc3tc

It is just a 4 foot by 8 foot rectangle with a center vertical piece and a center horizontal piece.

I am hoping to put a 1/4" plywood on top to make a small structure to hold 500 to 1000 lbs.

If 2 by 4s are not strong enough I could used 2 by 6 or 2 by 8.

I'm trying to keep the design very simple.

There will be a caster/wheel at each corner were the weight is transferred to.


texts: My concrete flat roof is 2 years old.  Above the roof I have fixed terracotta tiles.  During heavy rains I find water leakages (dropping) inside my house in several places.  Water drain is perfect.  No water stagnation after rain stops. I couldn't find any cracks, holes in my roof.  Kindly suggest me how to find out the exact leakage point.  I would be ever thankful for your valuable suggestion.  I want to get rid of this problem.


texts: Best solution for a room with slightly different floor height

texts:
I recently purchased a new home and the previous owners had done some modifications.

Firstly they had made a car port with an upstairs bedroom, then they enclosed the car port and extended the kitchen into that space. Now the original floor space and the new extended floor space have a slightly different floor height with the extended part being approx 3-5cm higher. There is a ramp at this area which I want to eliminate. Preferably lowering the floor of the extension.

I can see this is going to be a pain and a messy job but what exactly is my best option here?

My initial thought would be to break the floor in that area, lay new concrete and self level. In my head this is a massive job though. Has anyone dealt with such a task before? Any advice?


texts: 30 amp RV, 50 amp Receptical. Does it matter which "hot" hole in receptical is used? Can the neutral wire be wired into ground bus bar along with the ground?


texts: Should a twisted copper pipe be replaced?

texts:
While replacing a hot water tank I foolishly twisted the out pipe by losing my grip on the wrench.

The copper pipe twisted, so I twisted it back gently, but it now has a kink in it. Is this likely to suddenly split open? As it is the outflow pipe for the hot water it will become hot.

I've cut the water, and will be away for a week, so is this something I should get a plumber to look at urgently?

Any input welcome.


texts: I know there have been simular posts on this but I still cant make sence off my problem, my ceiling light won't.turn off.  I replaced all the oulets, light switch and light fixture in my bedroom . One  plug of an outlet is wired into the light switch with 2 red wires connected to the bottom post and 2 black wires connected to the upper post. The light switch has 2 pig tails, 1 with a black and red wire and the other with 4 black wires. The light wires are black and white same as the fixture but the old light didn't have a ground wire where the new one does  which is really the only thing that's changed. The light switch checks out ok with the ohm meter. All the outlets were swapped out wire for wire to ensure I didn't mix anything up which is why I'm  baffled. When taking ohms readings from the ceiling wires and the switch wires I get fluxuating readings.  With the breaker shut I have 120v readings from both pig tails using the common wire from the ceiling and there is obviously 120v between the ceiling wires.  Any idea as to what I'm missing?


texts:
I moved to a new house in the Netherlands. I have a oven-induction stove combi which has a 4 pin plug, but I do not have any socket for that in this house. What are my options if I need to make a new one (also, how to do it)? Can I somehow make that kind of connection using mutiple normal power sockets?

Thanks!


texts:
I have what I'm coming to believe is a unique noise issue with the HVAC ducting in my house. I've spoken to four different professionals and they are all somewhat dumbfounded.

The problem is that my ducting makes a significant amount of small pop noises for about 30 minutes while the furnace first turns on and for about 30 minutes after the furnace turns off. I have determined it is not coming from the furnace itself but instead is a result of the ducting expanding and contracting from the heat.

I was thinking that the ducting was rubbing against the wood framing of the house, however, I went in the attic today to observe and now believe the noise may be due to how the ducting is insulated. The ducting appears to have two layers of insulation and the outer layer has a paper backing on it and is held to the ducting with string. The sound that I'm hearing in the house is an amplified version of what it sounds like when that paper backing is pressed on, making me think that the string and paper backing are somehow flexing and the ducting is amplifying the sound.

Judging by the shape of the insulation, I'm thinking it may need to be re-insulated anyway. You can see how the string has broken in some of the pictures causing the insulation to fall off of the duct.

Has anyone ever heard of this before? I'm planning on blowing in additional insulation soon and am wondering what I can do to fix the sound issue and also repair this insulation, if needed.


texts: How do I remove surface rust from a metal roof?

texts: I am buying a house that requires some minor modifications.  One of them is a recommendation to remove a small area of surface rust on a metal roof.  I'm interested in the best way to achieve this.


texts: Compared to powder, is liquid detergent really better for the health of the washing machine?

texts: I am asking about front loaders. I have heard that powder builds up and it is worse than liquid, although I hear mixed arguments nowdays so I wondered if using liquid detergent is actually better for the washing machine, not the clothes.


texts: Do you know what this thin metal wire is? It's attached to the water line in my garage. It looks like it was cut off at the end. I can't see where the other end of the cable ends up - it runs behind the wall.


texts: Exterior lighting: Is a round waterproof lampholder ACTUALLY compatible with a rectangular housing?

texts:
I happened to be at Home Depot for something else, so I didn't get a good look at our exterior floodlights that need to be replaced (they're about 13 years old and don't work anymore). So I picked up two of these, just to have 'em in case they were a good fit:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5FF/ref=asc_df_B00002N5FF1260862?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=pg-894-10-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B00002N5FF

But when I came home I saw that the boxes on my house are rectangular and not round like the lights I bought. I was planning to just exchange them for the right kind, but then I noticed that in the description on that Amazon listing, it says they work for round OR rectangular waterproof housings! So... what gives? Can I actually expect to mount the round lights on the rectangular hole and have 'em work? Seems too good to be true.


texts: I am looking to sharpen a knife, and i seem to be out of oil... Is there a quick hack or home substitute i could use for this? I have 3-in-1 oil (white bottle) but aside from that (in terms of tool oil) all i have is the standard home/cooking stuff, Vegetable, Mineral, Olive, etc.


texts: How to combine flat and split lock washers on a bolt

texts:
So I'm assembling a pull up bar and its assmebly instructions look like this

In the parts list it mentions only one type of spring washer (quantity 4).

But it actually came with two types of washers (quantity 4 each), type1 and type2.

Am I supposed to use both of them? And in what way? Any help would be appreciated!


texts: How to find out what breakers are compatible with my panel?

texts:
This is on the inside of the panel door.

The box says that my panel it is UL Listed for Siemens and Murray breakers.

I see the table on the bottom for Main Breaker and Branch Breakers.  But I still find it hard to search for the breakers.  I'm looking for compatible AFCI breakers online...for example...is this Siemens breaker - QA115AFC compatible?  I see "QA" and "QAFH" in the table. I think it is because the product image shows "QAF2"  However the table shows "QAF"

What about this Murray breaker - MPA115AFC?  I think it is because the product image shows "MP-AT2" and the table shows "MP-AT".

Is there a better way to find these breakers?

UPDATE
I'm selecting breakers and I can't find out whether to go with the 10KAIC or 65KAIC.  I live in a residence and not a commercial building.
Which one should I get?  How do I calculate this based on the info on the panel door?
We have 200 A service.  I'm buying 20A and 15A AFCI breakers.

Here are photos of existing breakers.


texts: Where is American Wire Gauge (AWG) used? European standards

texts:
I live in Italy. I would like to know whether American Wire Gauge (AWG) is used in Europe for electrical wires that run within homes, or whether Europe usea different standards. Does each country in Europe use its own standards for home electrical wiring or is AWG somewhat of an international thing?

Thanks.


texts: What radio antenna connector is required? (FM/AM)

texts:
I need to hook up a coaxial antenna cable from my FM antenna to my stereo. The stereo is actually an RV (recreational vehicle) unit because it fit into a very tight space in my house (wall mounted, limited depth) so maybe has a different connector than what you'd normally find.

The cable right now is just a bare coax cable that I need to add ends to. The antenna end is a normal male coax connector, but what the stereo end needs is unclear...

The manual doesn't say anything in detail about what type of connector is needed for the antenna cable. This is the diagram from the manual:

It literally says nothing at all about the connector.

This is a photo of the actual connector on the stereo:

(sorry that's not as clear as I'd like, its hard to get the camera in there without disassembling things).

I assume this is some kind of standard connector, but I'm not familiar with this type of thing to know any details. Its a Jensen stereo.


texts: I just had these new dimmable LED lights installed. When I turn them on at the lowest setting, they don't turn on at all. I have to bring it up and back down again to get it to the low setting. This is annoying because at night I want to be able to turn on the lights at low brightness so it's not so startling. They do turn on immediately at higher settings.


texts:
I am currently in the process of painting a section of my basement. it has bare cinder block walls, and I am painting with latex DRYLOK

For the most part, this is fairly simple, if tedious. However, the paint is very thick, almost like painting with glue. This makes it difficult to do any type of detail work, including painting behind obstructions. Thankfully there are not any obstructions in this section of basement, with one exception: the water meter.

I am using a masonry roller with about a 1 1/8" NAP, and a masonry brush that is also very thick. Neither fits behind there.

I do not own a paint sprayer, nor am I interested in the financial investment and headaches associated with trying to get such thick paint to work in a sprayer for a tiny part of the wall. I am also unwilling to remove the meter temporarily to paint behind it. Both of those options fall outside of the amount of frustration that I am willing to deal with to paint a small section of wall that I am willing to leave as-is if there are no easier options.

What options do I have, if any, for applying DRYLOK behind an obstruction such as this water meter?


texts: heavy duty workbench leg from metal pipe?

texts:
I need to fabricate a heavy-duty leg for a workbench.  It needs to be about 30" high, with adjustable height (that is, with something like a foot with a threaded stud that can be rotated to fine-tune its height).  I haven't engineered this with any precision, but I'd say that it should be able to easily handle 100lbs of load.
It seems like galvanized pipe or black pipe would be a good choice - very strong and not terribly expensive - probably 3/4" or 1" trade size.  The upper end will be attached to a piece of steel angle, probably with u-bolts. I can imagine several ways of making the bottom end adjustable (to fine-tune the overall height).

Use an end cap at the bottom, and drill and tap that for an off-the-shelf adjustable furniture foot.  However, would the metal in galvanized or black pipe fittings be suitable for drilling and tapping ?  Somehow I imagine it as being too hard and/or too brittle.   OTOH, threads were cut onto ends of the pipe, and into other fittings such as the end caps, so maybe this is a stupid question - or maybe not, maybe special machining was used.

Use a threaded floor flange.  But it will rest against a nice hardwood floor, so it'd need some padding of sorts to protect the floor, especially when it's rotating.   And I'm not sure how much adjustability it would provide, that is, how long the threaded portion of a floor flange is.

Use some sort of conical piece of steel - definitely suitable for thread-cutting or already threaded - that could be pressed into the bottom end of the black pipe.

And finally: could PVC pipe be suitable ?  I'm sure at a sufficient diameter, and possibly using Schedule 80, it would be strong enough.   But would threads cut into PVC plastic be able to handle the sort of loads I require ?
Any suggestions or answers to be above are appreciated.


texts: What is going on with these wires at the wall light switch?

texts:
I am installing a smart switch, so I need a neutral.   I am a bit confused which wire is which in my wall switch box. Below is a picture of the wires:

I am thinking that the red wire (circled in red) is a random live wire that I am not too sure about. The white wire (circled in green) is a neutral wire. And the 3 black wires (circled in blue) are all live wires, with one going to the power box, and two going to two appliances. The thing is, this switch only controls one light, so I am not sure why there are two black live wires going out to appliances.

Any help?


texts: Do I need to get professional water damage repair, or can I handle this?

texts:
We recently had a toilet overflow a bit. There was a small amount of waste in the water. The bathroom itself has tile floors, but the toilet is right next to a very thin wall. The room on the other side of that wall has hardwood floors.

We cleaned and disinfected the bathroom floor and immediately used towels to soak up most of the water, but the water made it to the molding/trim in the bathroom. Over the next couple of hours, we noticed a slight amount of cupping on the wooden floor next to the bathroom.

Do I need professionals to come out and figure this thing out? I'm worried about sanitation and mold, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg if this is really not an issue. There has not been any visible damage on the ceiling of the level below this.

Here are some pics...

The toilet

How close it is to the other room

Cupping is very difficult to capture with a camera

I think the water got under the wooden floor in between the bathroom and the room.


texts: How to repair a rock maple table leaf support

texts: I have a solid wood old fashioned rock maple dining table with drop leafs on either side. There are 4 supports made of the same wood that can be rotated out to support the leafs when they are up. Today one of the supports split in half when the grand kids were fooling around. How can I repair the support piece? It is a clean break, both edges very smooth. Is there a glue strong enough or is it more complicated? Thanks


texts: When switch furnace on, ventilation fan turns off

texts:
Ventilation fan works fine when heating is off but immediately switches off when heating is turned on.  Consequently the furnace runs for a minute and then overheats and turns off.
Any idea what could be the cause?


texts: What is the official definition of first-hour delivery of hot water tanks?

texts:
I am looking at getting a new hot water tank. In deciding between a 40 gallon and a 50 gallon, I discovered that the 40 gallon has a higher first-hour delivery rating than the 50 gallon (see this spec sheet). I got curious and am doing the math on how this works, but I'm having trouble finding a precise, official, technical definition of the first-hour delivery rating. The closest thing I can find is this Rheem / RUUD Technical Service document:

    First Hour Rating

    The calculated amount of hot water a fully heated water heater can deliver in the first hour period. The output on a water heater is normally given in gallons per hour at a 100°F temperature rise. It is the quantity of water that the heater will deliver at 140°F, when the cold start temperature is 40°F. All water heaters are stamped with this output rating in gallons per hour.

I have come across other sources that say it's how much hot water the tank can deliver in a certain temperature range above the inlet temperature in an hour starting from a fully-recovered state, but I can't find those references back now.

Can anyone provide an official, technical reference for this?

Update: Here's another possibility:

  The First Hour Rating (FHR) in gallons, is determined by running a Department of Energy specified test with the outlet temperature of 125°F (+/- 5°F). A draw of three gallons per minute starts and then discontinues once the hot water outlet temperature drops 15°F. The water heater is then allowed to recover and the process continues repeatedly until one hour elapses. The sum of the amount of hot water drawn during the test is the First Hour Rating


texts: Cutting down blinds (Specifically metal frame - not the blind itself)

texts:
I have some blinds that have metal side pieces made from (I believe) aluminum. The sides are runners that the blinds and the handle slide up and down in.

The problem is that these are about 5mm too long for the height of the window so I need to cut them down. I know nothing about DIY and have few tools :P

What tools do I need to do this? I assume some kind of hand saw might do? Or is there a power tool? I don't mind spending a little money on a tool that I can use in future for other projects. But specifically what do I need to cut through thin metal reasonable neatly.

Any advice welcome, I want to learn (Even if it's you should get someone in to do it!)


texts: Fixing poor caulk job at aluminum siding and window trim

texts:
I am about to have my windows replaced at my home. The openings are all block frame, which from what I understand generally means that the exterior trim of the window doesn't need to be disturbed.

A previous owner had aluminum siding installed on the house. Unfortunately, the installer did a rather poor job where the siding meets the trim. In areas, there's a rather large gap between them and, as a remedy, a large amount of caulk has been used to fill the space.

Since I'm having the windows replaced, now seems to be the appropriate time to also clean this up. One of the window salesmen that visited my house recommended it just being ripped out and recaulked more carefully with new trim. I've also heard of something called j-channel being used but I'm not sure whether this is just for vinyl siding. What's the most pragmatic way of dealing with this?

Below is an example. This particular example doesn't have too bad of a gap (from what I can tell) but it gives you an idea of the existing state.


texts: I have a 4-way switch I want to replace with a dimmer. I understand I can put the dimmer at one of the other 3-way switches, but they're more out of the way.  Does such a device exist? If not, what are my other options?


texts: Is there a way to upgrade an existing bathroom light exhaust fan to include heater without having to rewire the entire switch?

texts:
I need to upgrade an existing bathroom light exhaust fan to include heater, however there is only one wire/switch going to the current exhaust fan which runs both the light and the exhaust fan.
Is there a method I can do this without having to rewire?
I need to be able to run the light and exhaust fan without the heater running and visa versa. It would be incredibly difficult to have to run a new wires up to the exhaust fan.  I would have no access to the ceiling via the attic and the current switch is on a half wall.
I have done google searches looking for an exhaust fan that has a heater that is controlled by a remote but it appears that there is no such thing surprisingly
Is there  a way to wire in a second switch with out having to go through walls?


texts: I have a bunch of reclaimed wood of varying thickness, most are 1.5-2" thick.  If I cut them to fit between my studs, would that serve as a good sound insulator under the finished wall? Would I have to seal each seam? This is between a bedroom and bathroom.


texts: Hole in subfloor under stove: Do I fix? If so do I put flooring over it?

texts:
In preparation for porcelain tile installation in my kitchen I removed the vinyl stick-on squares the previous owner threw down before selling and the 1/4" plywood underneath those.  When I pulled the stove forward to remove the rest of the vinyl and plywood I found this:

The front feet of the stove rested on the existing floor with nothing but subfloor under the stove, well, subfloor and a hole.  The piece of subfloor was inside the hole.  Here's what's in the hole:

My questions:

Why does this hole exist and should I repair it? Now that the weather is turning I feel cold air coming from the hole but could there be a valid reason the subfloor wasn't repaired after work was done?
Should the new flooring (porcelain tile over cement board) extend under the stove?  Currently the edge of the stove sits 1/2" below the countertop.

Now that I've written out my questions it seems the answers are "yes" and "yes".  However I don't know what I don't know and maybe there's a good reason things were left as I found them, as janky as they seem.

Are "yes" and "yes" the correct answers?


texts: Tankless water heater causes magnets (ceiling fans, induction oven) to hum while actively heating water

texts:
I replaced a tankless water heater with the same model, but a couple of years newer. (The original was damaged by careless house painters). This is a 13 kw Rheem unit and on its own circuit.
Since that time, when we run the hot water in any location and turn on the induction stovetop or larger overhead ceiling fan, we hear a very noticeable hum.  This was not apparent with the earlier tankless. We've had professionals come over and tell us that it looks good from an electrical perspective and to call an appliance repair shop. Any suggestions?


texts: I have a house with two separate main panels, one has two 70 amp breakers, so it is a 70 amp panel. the other has a 50 amp and a 25 amp breaker is it a 50 amp panel?


texts: Buffer tank on input or output of tankless water heater?

texts:
As I understand it, in residential systems, tankless water heater are commonly paired with a buffer tank to deal with the "cold sandwich" and finite capacity of tankless heater1.  This seems reasonable, but I'm curious as to why the only config I see is a buffer tank at the output of the tankless.  That is, why is a buffer at input of tankless heater seemingly not an option?

It seems to me that keeping a buffer of hot water at the output negates one primary benefit of a tankless system: energy-efficiency. As such, the system is obligated to keep the reserve hot 24/7, thereby generating energy waste.

On the other hand, keeping a reserve at the input, the system can selectively heat the reserve when the demand is expected to be the highest (a couple of hrs a day?) and neglect it at other times. And in the worst case, if demand is unpredictable, the system could simply be programmed to maintain a hot input buffer 24/7, just as with buffer at the output.  But in either case, an additional opportunity for efficiency with an input buffer is by maintaining a lower reserve temperature.

Under limited circumstances, I think an input buffer tank may not be an adequate solution to the "cold sandwich", but assuming the system could be programmed to minimize the problem during certain time of day, in a typical residential system, is there a really compelling reason to keep buffer at tankless output?   Is there historical or empirical data to back the choice to put buffer on output?


texts: GFCI outlet has power and works, but the test button is not working...assuming that means no fault protection

texts:
The GFCI in one of my bathrooms has power, but when I push the test button it does not work (does not click). The outlet in another bathroom is tied into this GFCI.

Steps taken so far:

Used a digital multimeter with prong in the power and ground...got a reading of 122.4. Understood that this is an indication that there is no ground issue(?)
Used a digital multimeter with prong in the neutral and ground...did not get a reading. Understood that this is an indication that the wires are not out of sequence(?)
Detached the upper wires and used a digital multimeter with prong in the power and ground...got a reading of 122.4.
Removed the socket and placed in another GFCI location and confirmed that here is no issue with the socket, i.e. the test switch worked as designed.

Not sure what to check next. Also, are my understandings about what the results of the tests mean accurate?

Thanks,
Owen


texts:
I have changed a dimmer to a normal light switch.
On dimmer there were two red cables: 1 going into L1 and the other into a wavy line with arrow through it.
I have put L1 to L1 on normal switch and wavy line to common on light switch is this correct?


texts: Water from toilet tank goes straight down the drain?

texts:
Is it possible for the tank water to bypass the bowl and straight to the drain?  Would this mean I need a new toilet?

The toilet was running and I have been trying to fix the flush valve.

Mansfiled toilet.


texts:
This part in my toilet slowly drips water:

It's not a big problem but I still want to fix it.  I already tried to screw the part as tightly as possible but it did not change.


texts:
What is the best (or correct) way to wire outlets in the middle of a circuit?

1) Using the screws available in the outlet to "extend" the circuit wires to the next outlet.

2) Making a derivation from the wires to the outlet.

We also have here derivation connectors that look like those, but the take a lot of space in the recepctacle box:

The outlets we use here have this kind of connection screws


texts: Should a concrete slab slope toward my house?

texts: I am adding a room to my home, the contractor poured a concrete slab for the addition and it slopes toward the existing house and it is now raining and water is coming under my floors. Is the slope of the poured slab correct?


texts: Should outside hose bib be suppled from shut-off valve with a bleeder port from upstairs bathroom

texts:
A plumber placed a shut-off valve with a bleeder port under the vanity in our upstairs bathroom. He used this valve to feed an outdoor hose bib. The plumber left the bleeder port  in the open position. We turned on the valve to use our garden hose  and the next day we heard a water dripping  sound downstairs (the open drain leaked water down to the bottom floor and flooded it out).
Is placing a shut-off valve upstairs under a vanity to feed an outside hose bib against the building code?
Should we accept a solution of replacing the shut-off with a drain with one without a drain, and keep the plastic pipe in?
Or should the plumber be required to place the shut-off valve downstairs in utility room where there is a drain?
The entire house was done with copper pipe, the only place plastic pipe was used was to feed the outside faucet from the vanity in the upstairs bathroom.
Shouldn't builders be required to do the entire job with the material they started out with?


texts: Will fasteners straighten a pressure treated bottom plate?

texts:
I am framing a basement and have been working at my own pace. Because of this some of the pressure treated boards I purchased have developed a twist to them.

I don't want to go through all the trouble of framing a portion and securing it and having it not come out correctly.

When I fasten the frame to the foundation will it straighten out the green board? Is this something I should even worry about?


texts: What should I do about a huge gap under the drywall and baseboard when installing luxury vinyl tile?

texts:
I am installing luxury vinyl tile in a room and I am having an issue with the gap. My drywall sits about an inch from the subfloor. There is no drywall there at floor level to hold the LVT in place. The space under the drywall to its back support is about 1 inch. So if I leave a 1/4 inch expansion gap from the drywall it will be a total of 1 1/4 inch from where the flooring would actually touch anything. I fear that the expansion gap being that large would create spaces at the joints down the line. It is the click together flooring (Shaw alto plus planks). At first I thought I could just stick the planks 3/4 inch under the drywall which would leave a 1/4 inch gap to the outside support stud but I quickly realized I am unable to click the next piece in under the wall (oops). I hoped I explained this well. ANY suggestions (other than scrapping the product because I love the look and feel) would be greatly appreciated.

The last picture is of the flooring laid under the floorboard and under the drywall. You can see the gap is enough to still see space between the flooring and the wall.

The pictures do not show the depth very well.

I did call Shaw, and they did not seem to understand what I was asking. She just kept saying you need an expansion gap.


texts: Can I build a garbage chute that connects the garage for residential use?

texts:
My current home has the kitchen adjoining to the garage. Most of the really smelly garbage is generated in the kitchen. The big garbage can and recycling bins live in the garage.

Is there an appropriate sealed, insulated chute or hatch that would let me just toss my waste directly into the big can in the garage instead of a small can in the kitchen? It seems like something McMaster-Carr would have.

Is this governed by any national (US) or regional codes? Any concerns or code issues with having a flap opening to a garage space instead of a living space (CO, car smells, etc.)?

This would free up some kitchen space by not having to have a separate garbage can in the kitchen. It would save time since that can would not have to be emptied. It could save time sorting garbage if multiple chutes are used for recycling. It should make the kitchen more pleasant as the really stinky garbage would be in the garage and not in the house.

Any general thoughts on this idea?

Any suggestions for alternatives, like maybe an insulated dog door if something like an insulated hatch doesn't exist?


texts: Why has my tub spout diverter not dropping back down after use? (brand new installation)

texts: I installed a replacement tub spout with diverter and after about a week, the diverter doesn't always come back down after a shower. At first it dropped down right after a shower. Sometimes it happens hours later and sometimes it doesn't happen at all and when I turn the water on the showerhead immediately sprays water. Did I install the spout incorrectly? I can give more info if I haven't explained enough, but at this point I'm not sure at all what I did wrong.


texts: How can plywood edges be finished to conceal the plies?

texts: My cabinet doors are tired and have many coats of ugly paint. Rather than strip all the paint off, I'm considering just chucking the old doors and making new ones. I like the plain style of just a simple, painted rectangle of plywood. But how can I finish the edges of plywood doors to conceal the plies so they don't shout "I am made of plywood"?


texts: Is my HVAC system one or two transformer based?

texts:
I have read Do I have one or two 24V transformers in HVAC control circuit, but as it appears I don't have two geographically separate units for A/C and heating, believe this to be a different question.

However I also bought the Nest E for installation, and hence need to know if this one transformer thermostat will work with my system.

Can you please take a look at the below images and let me know if this will be as simple as getting both cables to the same location (haven't discussed with my other half whether this new thermostat will be up, or downstairs) and hooking up control wires as the instructions state, using the wire attached to the R terminal in the thermostat set for heating for R, and cap the wire attached to the Rc terminal in the thermostat set for cooling (or vice versa)?

Below is the wiring to one of our thermostats (Set for heating):

Below is the wiring to the other thermostat (Set for cooling):

Below is where the cabling from each thermostat, and to each of the gas furnace and unit outside for electric cooling, cables converge: (The cable with the red wire wrapped around it goes to the outside box with a fan in it; the condenser? The other cables go up through inaccessible wall cavities to each thermostat, but without a continuity tester that can be used to test one wire going to different locations, assume that the cable with the blue and green wire wrapped around it at the back of this bundle is the one that goes to the heating thermostat, with the other to the cooling thermostat).

Below is the wiring block for the furnace:

The gas furnace is below a box with pipes coming from the outside cooling unit go into.


texts: What kind of wooden fence is this and how do I go about staining it?

texts:
This fence was put up about a year ago. Ideally I would like to stain it but I wanted to get everyone's opinion first.

First of all I have no idea what kind of wood this is and what I should do about preparing to stain. I did some research and people are saying it should be sanded down? Is this absolutely necessary, the fence is huge and it would be extremely time consuming.

I also live in an area where it rains a lot throughout the year and the winters aren't as harsh.

Any advice or recommendation is greatly appreciated.


texts: How to install casings on 5/8" drywall and 1/2" window/door jambs

texts:
I have a room framed with windows and door with jambs sized for 1/2 drywall. I would like to install 3/4" X 3 1/2" casing, see illustration, around them.
I would also like to install 5/8" drywall rather than 1/2" for various reasons.
With this setup, drywall will be sticking 1/8" above the jamb. Is there an easy way to work around it?
Will the casing with profile in the illustration   work or do I need to scrape some drywall under it?
.


texts: Connected C-Wire to new Smart Thermostat and Furnace board and still no power

texts:
I need help. I've been surfing the internet and have had no luck finding answers to my situation so am hoping for some guidance. I've seen other questions here answered but none that suit my issue so am hoping it can be addressed with some recommendations.

I too am trying to install (or power up) my c-wire for a new smart Honeywell Thermostat. As all sites and videos I found show, all I have to do is hook up the unused blue wire which was both available on both ends on our thermostat and the furnace board. The thing is, I installed both blue wire and still no power to the new smart thermostat. I troubleshooted a variety of things from checking the fuses, etc. I've attached a photo of the furnace board with the blue already attached as pictured  The other set of two wires was to my AC unit which I kept the same.

For now, I installed back the old thermostat and it functions properly so power looks be working (blue wire remains unconnected for the old one) as pictured.

Looks correct, but I'm not an HVAC person. Any advice on other ways to troubleshoot would be appreciated.


texts: How to insulate around heater exhaust vent pipe?

texts:
In the winter I noticed that my garage (and the den next to it) get really cold by the morning. As in very close to the outside temp cold. I didn't know where to borrow tools to detect where the leak was so I did a couple of basic inexpensive things like insulated the garage door, foam sprayed the gaps in the garage everywhere I found them, insulated the interior door to the garage etc. It helped, but not that much.

The other day while cleaning I discovered that the gas water heater vent terminates on the side wall and there's almost an 1'' gap around it going directly outside without any insulation. I understand it's probably a legitimate part of the design as the pipe might get hot and needs some clearance.  But at the same time, does it mean that there's nothing I can do to reduce leaking and not have to heat the space the entire winter?

Does anyone know of any solutions to that?

This is in the PNW, US.


texts: How Can I re-attach my bathroom fixtures which are hanging loose from the wall?

texts:
Please see the two pictures below. I'm trying to re-attach the two faucets so that there is no gap between them and the wall. These faucets work perfectly fine its just that they aren't attached to the wall as they should be.

Is this something I'd need a plumber for? or What would I need to buy/do to get this in order?


texts: Using fire retardant sealant for low-voltage cables through walls

texts:
I plan to wire my house with CAT6 cables, running inside the walls (drywall, wood). I would have to drill through the floor and probably through fire blocks in between the studs.

Lot of guides advise to pull a string in addition to the cables, so that additional wires could be easily pulled later. I do want to do that, mostly for upgradability later on

However one guide mentioned to fill the fireblock/floor hole with fire retardant sealant.

If I fill with the sealant, there is no way I could pull anything else through it. So the question is: is it really necessary to fill these holes with fire retardant sealant, or is it safe to leave them as is?

If it matters, I am in Ontario, Canada.


texts:
I have some galvanized fence brackets that I want to use on some benches.  Before construction I want to paint them black to match a table we have.  I have been doing some research on how to do this so the paint will stand the test of time. From what I have seen the basic steps are as follows:

Clean the metal with an acid (i.e. distilled white vinegar)
Apply primer to the surface
Paint using a latex based paint

Am I correct on this or did I miss something?  Do I need a primer or can I do multiple coats of paint?


texts:
I'm building a sandbox for my three-year old.  It will probably sit on the deck, so it needs some kind of bottom.  Ideally, we should be able to move the sandbox around the deck.  Is it necessary for water to drain out of the sandbox, or will the sand absorb enough water?  What should I use for bottom?

Ideas:

Landscape fabric: allows water to drain through, but may not be strong enough to move.
Regular plywood: allows movement, but may rot and does not drain.
Redwood plywood: I don't know anything about, but I saw it at Home Depot, and it may be more resistant to rot.
Edit: Combination: plywood with a few drilled holes, covered by landscape fabric.


texts:
Decided to DIY a refinish kit on my tub (it’s a rental and I’m broke); unfortunately, I cannot get the rusty, corroded drain to budge. Tried special tools, tried inserting pliers into the X and using channel locks to turn (YouTube tip). Still nothing. The overflow had a bunch of caulk on it, turns out it was the only thing holding it in place. When I removed it, the whole overflow pipe fell behind the wall. No access panel. Aside from taking apart the wall (half of tub wall is shared with linen closet, the other half is shared with a coat closet), any options for dealing with either of these? I removed the plywood “wall” in the linen closet, but there’s framing and drywall (I think) behind it that I’d need to cut into for access. 1953 house with a few owners.
PS. I’m a total novice DIYer. Trying not to make anything worse!


texts: The portable ac in one room trips the 15 amp circuit breaker after about 45 minutes, can the breaker safely be changed to a 20 amp breaker?


texts: Ground new wiring going into old two-wire outlet?

texts:
I'm wiring in a light switch and light into a closet on the other side of the wall of this outlet. I've run romex from the lightswitch hole through the wall and into the back of this metal box (secured with a clamp). The metal box receives power from some flexible metal conduit with a black and a white wire in it. I've attached the white and black wires from the romex to the open screws on the outlet. Now I'm wondering what the proper way to wire the ground is.

In the picture, you can see that the prior wiring had a small wire connecting the ground screw on the outlet to the neutral screw coming out of the wall. Perhaps the previous electrician used this to retrofit the old two prong outlet to a three prong one. The box doesn't have an obvious ground spot. Besides my new romex, there are no other wires.

The house was built in 1923 in Minnesota and has had various renovations over the years. The prior owner owned the house since 1947 and almost always had professionals do the work. The wall is plaster/lathe.

Edit:

I added some more photos of the old wiring. I found a spot in the box where it seems like I can thread a bolt, I'll try grounding it there.


texts: How can I keep my neighbors water from leaking through a wall?

texts:
tldr: How can I, (temporarily and quickly), keep at least some amount of leaking water dammed and away from a wall?

I live in a three unit condo. In the basement, there is a cheaply constructed wall dividing my portion from my two neighbors. The floor of the basement slants significantly towards my part of the basement.

There is a modest water leak through the exterior wall in my neighbors' half the basement, near the dividing wall. It's a little damp for them, but they aren't really experiencing a huge issue with it. What's really happening is that all of the water is immediately flowing through/under/around the dividing wall and pooling in my half of the basement. It's actually pretty remarkable how quickly the water flows away from them and through the wall.

Because of the lack of impact, they don't quite sense the urgency of fixing the issue. We all keep odd hours, so I haven't been able to really show them the extent what's going on in my basement.

Is there any way that I can easily dam up the base of the wall so that, when the water leaks, it at least stays near the leak? I don't want to be a jerk neighbor - they'll get it fixed eventually - but its beginning to damage the stuff I have in storage and I need it stopping now not at some ill-determined point in the future.


texts:
I have 1/2" PVC ran from my compressor to a hose real hanging on my ceiling.  It works well, but I would like to add a PVC union around the last bend just before the reel.

Would the union be tight enough to not leak air out?


texts: Testing outlets, having the two yellow leds "ON" (right connection) one of them blinks. What is the reason of that?


texts: Do lights in a circuit have to be grounded for the whole circuit to be grounded?

texts:
I have a circuit in my old house (built 1918), it’s gone through many remodels during its lifespan and multiple owners.

This one circuit has no grounded outlets, so I had a look behind the outlet to see what the story was. It appears that all these outlets have copper wires back there, so I picked up some grounded outlets and hooked up the copper wires to the ground not - all to no avail. Now my outlets show “open ground”.

I can’t see any other outlets on this circuit, and it appears everything is fine. The only thing relatively near these outlets are two lights (not a traditional light). They are on the wall, and use a twist/click mechanism to turn on and off. Would these also need to be grounded in order for the whole circuit to be correct?

Thank you


texts: Must I screed/level floor that has a slight apex @ centerline?

texts:
I am installing 6x24" wood look porcelain tile in an approx 200 sqft room.
It is rectified tile, remarkably flat for long tile.

To prepare the subfloor, I had someone install 5/8" plywood over the subfloor tongue & groove planks that was nailed to joists. He told me the floor was pretty flat using a 7' level; OK for tiling, so I installed backer board over that and taped the seams.

However, I did a final check with an 8' level I just bought, I discovered there is a high spot that's more like an apex near the centerline of the floor (tiles will run lengthwise against that centerline). Meaning, the floor has a very subtle 'tenting' (inverted flattened V) sloping consistently from the apex to each wall. The slope from apex to each wall is about 1/2" over approx 8'.

As bad as that sounds, the slope angle is so slight that when I lay the titles parallel to the axis, and run them with spacers from apex toward each wall,the slope cannot be seen either at the grout lines or across the tiles.

I'm considering screeding/leveling the floor with Versabond LFT thinset (tolerates 3/4" bed), which would be a hassle, but part of me thinks it's not worth that effort, because I could just tile because each slope is pretty flat (just not level).

I was planning on using the QEP Lash system because I don't think it will be a problem even with the slopes. I just wanted to get some other thoughts on this before making the leap.


texts: Wire guage needed for standard stove/oven combo

texts: I am running wire for a standard Kenmore stove/oven and wire for a stackable washer dryer unit. Both runs are less than 50'. What amp breaker and guage wire is needed?


texts: Lukewarm water from solar cyclinder heating system

texts:
I have a dimplex solar heating system with a water cylinder. Been fine for 5 years but in recent weeks even with hot weather I'm getting 15 seconds of hot water in the kitchen and then lukewarm water thereafter. The bathroom which is slightly further away only gets lukewarm water.
Pressure is fine. The controller wasn't touched when the issue started.
Going to cost the best part of £200 just to get it checked so any help and DIY checks you can provide would be greatly appreciated.


texts: What material to tie two cinder block walls together?

texts:
I am building a 24" high planter made from cinder block walls: Sketch below.
Though it looks like a normal planter, water is pumped in from a pond, and instead of dirt, various layers of increasingly smaller and smaller rocks are filled in. As such, the walls probably need to support a lot more weight than typical of a planter, as there is rocks and water, not just dirt.
For increased strength, I can run something strong from one wall to the other, since I believe pressure will be equal on both walls. The cinder blocks have holes, which could make a convenient attaching point, but their isn't much space between the bricks, insufficient to run chain. Additionally, I need something that won't rust and deteriorate much over time.
Is there some kind of product I can use for tying the walls good so they support the heavy weight of the rocks and water?
      _____________________________
     /                            /|
    /            @  <--flowers   / | <--brick wall
   /            \|/             /  |
  /              |             /   |
 /                            /    /
/___________________________ /    /
|                           |    /
|                           |   /
|                           |  /
|                           | /
|___________________________|/

       ____                            ____
       |  |                            |  |
       |  |oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo|  |   (slide view)
       |  |                            |  |
       |  |     (rocks + water)        |  | <-- three 8"x8"x16" cinder blocks tall
       |  |                            |  |
       |  |                            |  |
_______|  |____________________________|  |_______<-- ground level


texts: need help with completing Zone, Thermostat and low pressure wiring for a Alpine Boiler ALP150

texts:
i have completed most of the connections to the boiler expect for
Zone values, Thermostat and low pressure monitoring.

i need help with understanding if i need to purchase a 24v transformer ? and how to serial connect the wiring with regard to zones valves, thermostat and low pressure monitoring.


texts: Timer for house ventilation switch - high/low voltage wiring

texts:
I have a home ventilation switch that I would like to wire a timer to. This switch is located in my upstairs hallway, and when flipped it turns on the furnace fan blower and the main bathroom exhaust fan. However, when I look in the junction box, it's unlike anything I've ever seen.

The switch has four terminals (plus ground), with a standard high voltage wire connected to one side, and a pair of low voltage wires connected to the other side. While I can't trace it through the wall, there is a similar red-sleeved low-voltage wire connected to the control panel on my furnace blower, which I assume is the other end of this wire. However, I have a number of questions:

1) How can there be both high and low voltage wires connected to the same switch? Is there such thing as a switch with a built-in transformer?

2) How/why would the white/neutral wire be connected to the switch? Is this how you terminate a neutral wire when the load device doesn't have a neutral?

3) If the low voltage wire is connected to my furnace fan blower, how is power getting to the bathroom exhaust fan?

Any insight here would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
What size air-compressor is needed for continuous duty?

I'm trying to use a 90psi needle scaler to remove paint layers from an outdoor wrought-iron trellis that has lots of nooks and crannies an abrasive pad and angle-grinder cannot reach.  My brand-name 6-gallon air-compressor doesn't have enough capacity to support continuous use: the scaler works well only for about 5-6 seconds and then its ability to remove the paint rapidly peters out. Then it takes about 15-20 seconds for the compressor to get back to 90psi. So the job is taking forever.


texts: Wire a sub-panel to run a pottery kiln, or put a breaker in the main panel?

texts:
Pretty beginner on electrical.  I have a 100 amp service (metered not against or adjacent to main dwelling - somewhere central in our mobile home court) with a 125 amp main box.  1300 ish sq ft, 3 1250 W back up floor board heaters on separate breakers, 3000 W water tank. Wood heat is main heat source.  It's inspected to code and I'd like it to remain that way IF POSSIBLE.  Wife is a potter and we want to wire a big kiln in the shed (nothing connected from shed to main bldg) for her.  It requires a 60 amp breaker, 48.5 peaks amps, 11 150 Watts.  I could A. put a 60 amp breaker on the main panel and run a wire straight to the kiln or, more preferably, B. install a sub panel.

I have my eye on a 70 amp sub panel that is 1 phase, 3 wire with a main wire size of #14-4 Cu.  This has confused the crap out of me - #14-4 Cu.  I understand that a 70 amp load requires a #4 AWG wire.  I don't know why the 14 is in there.  What about the other two wires since it's a 3 wire sub panel?  What should they be rated?  Is it hot-neutral-ground or hot-hot-ground?    Anyways, the specs on the main box says that you can install a "subfeed lug kit" - am I on right track here?  Is that how you'd install a sub-panel?  Can you install a 70 amp sub-panel on a 125 main panel with 100 amp. service?  Or would you put a 70 amp breaker on the main panel?

I'm in BC Canada.  130/150 total breaker count ("hot water tank" breaker is 15 amp x 2, and same with "front porch heat").  Isn't the total amps 125 for each side if the panel is rated for 125 amps? I'm not sure because our dwelling has passed an electrical inspection.  I'm also guessing that adding to the main panel a 60 amp breaker for a kiln or 70 amp breaker for a sub panel would violate code.

How do I turn off the main service without getting zapped?  I'd like to look inside the main box, but I don't want to fry.

Lastly the run to the shed in only 4 feet outdoors.  The rest of the run is underneath our structure.  About a 55'-60' run.

Help VERY appreciated!


texts: I purchased a Lutron occupancy sensor MS-OPS5MH-WH. I have no ground available.

texts: I purchased a Lutron MS-OPS5MH-Wh.  It has 2 black wires one green one blue and one bare.  I hooked up the two black wires but do not have a ground (green and bare).. When hooked up the light is on all the time.  I have read on the net that it will not work without a ground hook-up. Can you help me get this thing to work.


texts: Frayed duct vent - can it still be used?

texts:
I removed an old noisy bathroom fan and the duct attached to it is just frayed. (If that's the word) I've tried cutting these ducts before and I just end up unraveling a bunch more than I should.
That's actually the situation I find myself in.

I really don't want to replace this duct tube, it looks like a pain to go to the
flashing and route a new tube.
So the question is - can I still use this? and if so, how can I make the end of it acceptable for the out of the bathroom vent.
Note the duct and the vent are both 3".


texts: How should I install tile backer board with a curved tub flange?

texts:
I'm attempting my first bathroom remodel and been down the debate of how/where to place the tile backer board. I found this thread here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/32090/94284

Should I put furring strips on the verticals to make it flush? notice the shape of the flange on my tub. Not really sure how to deal with this compared to all the examples with a vertical lip on the tub that seems much easier to deal with. Any illustrations or examples would be greatly appreciated. Not sure if I should try to get the board in front of this as it's not a flat/vertical lip... or above it. and how to prevent curved tile at the bottom.


texts: How would I go about grounding this light switch?

texts: I am trying to replace a light switch (so it's white and matchs the room, it still works) but the switch in this room is not grounded (there is no ground screw, it's an older switch). There are two ground wires, which as I understand, one goes to the fixture and one comes from supply ( something like that). The wires were capped together.


texts: Replace linear Compact Flourescent bulb with 2 pin

texts: Does anyone knows how to replace a linear CFL bulb that cannot be twisted? I tried pulling it out but failed.Thank you. I


texts:
I'm new here. I would appreciate any helpful info.

I have installed an EV level 2 charger in my garage. It is a 30 AMP charger. I is around 8 feet away from the breaker box. I used 8/2 wire to be on the safe side for future possible upgrades and used a 2 pole 40 AMP breaker for now. The EV charger is working fine. The question I have is that the two hot wires are 8 gauge but the ground wire is a bare 10 gauge wire. Is this OK or should I replace the ground with an 8 gauge wire?

Thank you so much for your kind support.


texts: How clean up linseed oil stains after spill on stone patio?

texts:
A contractor spilled linseed oil on my stone patio, staining a large area. I tried cleaning the stone with simple dish soap & water, and it had absolutely no effect. I fear that the oil has been absorbed. Any other suggestions for a cleaning method, one that won't discolor the stone during cleaning?

The stained surfaces are bluestone, brick, and some random rocks.

Thank you for any suggestions.


texts: Will reflective aluminum on windows reduce solar heat transmission?

texts:
My room get overheated by the evening sun. I have some blinds but its not really helping. I was wondering if putting some reflective insulation would help. Not removing the blinds but between the blinds and the glass.

The room is on 2nd floor so would prefer a solution that doesnt need outside modifications. Secondly, would prefer a medium term solution that I can possibly easily remove when I move.

Thoughts? Feedback? Anything I should be worried about? Less concerned that it might not look great from the outside - but if it keeps the room cooler, I would be happy. Thank you in advance.


texts: How can I repair a pinhole leak in a washing machine drain hose?

texts:
I've just reconnected my washing machine and tested it, and there's a tiny hole in the out-flow pipe. The hole is in red circle in the images below ... in the fairly-rigid, ribbed plastic, rather than the rubber section with the black ziptie.

I'd guess the hole is the size of a large needle hole? Big enough to get a jet of water squirting out of it, but not so big that the pipe is obviously ruined.

Is there any particularly reliable way for me to mend this DIY? (I need to get it mended quickly, and don't really have the time to schedule a day that a plumber can come, and I can miss work :( )

My first guess is to pour a little superglue over the hole?
Another option might be sugru?
Is there some way that I can trim back the pipe past the hole and then reconnect it?

It's not the pipe connected to the washing machine itself, I don't know where the pipe goes, but it's definitely not going to be easily accessible, wherever it is :(


texts: Handling unavoidable rust (probably?) contamination in arc welds

texts:
I've been working on repairing my front gate, which got hit by a car. It's also been a good opportunity to get better at welding (FCAW).
I'm having an issue doing some patch repair welds on the 2x2x3/32" vertical steel tube that holds the gate up. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures right now although I will try to take some the next time it happens.
The problem I'm having seems (to my untrained eye) to be caused by rust inclusions in the weld, which generally leaves me with welds that have small pinholes around the edges (which become apparent after grinding down the bead). That's my best theory.
The cause, I believe, is that the inside of the tube is severely rusted due to long term rainwater exposure. While I've fully cleaned the outside of the tube before welding, I can't clean inside the tube and I believe the rust on the inside is contaminating the deeper portions of my welds.
My question is: Is there anything I can do about this? Is there any way to achieve perfect welds when the opposite side of the metal is covered in inaccessible rust (and who knows what else)?
I've tried running over the holes with a lower voltage and feed speed just to fill them in with metal but when I grind those away, it just keeps moving the pinholes to the edges of my spot welds.
I hope this is clear. I'm actually OK, function-wise, with the current mediocre welds, since they're still sufficient and worst case I can throw some bondo over the holes or something. However, since this is welding practice for me I'd really like to get closer to perfect beads. Not quite sure what to do about this issue, assuming the rust is the issue (but like I said, that's my current theory -- I don't have any other ideas of what's going on).


texts: We had replacement windows installed several years ago; they have no exterior nailing flanges but were installed via screws on the sides.  Now we are ready to replace the aging cedar siding with James Hardie Smart Siding (4 X 8 sheets).  When removing the old siding, we are left with windows that protrude about 1 7/8” from the sheathing.  We’ve filled the gaps on the sides, top, and bottom with appropriate expanding foam.  Now we are wondering what to do for flashing.  We will have ¾” X 3” cedar trim around the window.  Because there are no flanges, do we need to put metal flashing on top of the window frame and also on top of the cedar trim?  What about the sides and bottom?


texts: Alright I just replaced my bathroom sink and faucet had some problems but managed through.  Turned my water back on and the went back to the bathroom sink to turn the valves on but they won't turn.  The valves are brand new quarter turn Sharkbite stop valves.  What could I have done wrong?  Both valves are in exactly the same state, they just won't turn.


texts:
Current setup is a 20A breaker that powers:

Above counter: 2 gang box with:

Left side: a switch powering over-sink light
Right side: a switch for the garbage disposal

Under sink: A hardwired garbage disposal

Desired/plan:

Replace the garbage disposal switch with a 20A GFCI
Install a 15A receptacle below sink (where I'll plug in a button air switch for a plug-in disposal + hot water dispenser)

Nothing wrong with this plan I hope?
I have questions about how to properly wire the GFCI, so that it (I think should) also protect the under-sink outlet.
As I look to install the GFCI, the instructions say:

DO NOT install the GFCI receptacle in an electrical box containing (a) more than four (4) wires (not including the grounding wires) or (b) cables with more than two (2) wires (not including the grounding wire)."

As you can see from the photos, I have 3 cables going into the box. All 3 cables have black/white/ground. Can this be installed and if so what is the correct wiring?
Please let me know if you need more information and I can edit this. In USA.