texts: How should I raise the subfloor in one room to match another?

texts:
I am installing some new vinyl plank, and I have an issue where my dining room (linoleum) and living room (laminate) meet.  The dining room is about 3/8" higher than the living room.  I want to run the vinyl across both rooms without using a transition strip and get rid of this annoying bump.  Is there a way I can raise the floor to be level and flush without tearing out the old lino (it could contain asbestos and I don't want to disturb it).
From what I could ascertain so far, I think I would have to rip out the laminate and lay plywood across the whole living room.  Is there a quicker and more affordable option here?
Thanks for the help!


texts:
I had an Ar CO2 pressure gauge (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3XWVYM/) hooked up to a valve that I was using to control the flow of 95:5 Ar:H mixture. After some overflows (i.e., the needle went to max multiple times), I heard a popping sound and now whenever I open the tank of Ar-H, the pressure immediately goes to maximum and I cannot control the flow rate. Does that mean my pressure gauge is broken or the entire regulator is? Thanks!

PS My regulator + gauge is this one: https://www.airgas.com/product/Gas-E...0aAimCEALw_wcB


texts: Should we skim-coat or drywall over a textured plaster wall to smooth it out?

texts:
Our new house has textured plaster walls that my wife and I don't like.  We originally wanted to skim coat the walls to smooth them out, but a contractor suggested that we could put up drywall over it instead since we have some room to give on our baseboards and trim.  He also thought it'd be cheaper and quicker to do so.

In addition we are going to be doing quite a bit of rewiring (removing knob and tube) and there are plenty of places where the plaster is cracking, so there is some repair work to be done beyond just skim coating the plaster in places.

This is somewhat related to this question but rather than being a single crack we're talking about most of the walls in a 1400 sq ft home, built in 1925.

Something about putting the drywall over the plaster makes me uneasy...  Which should I do, and what are the relative pros and cons of each?

Our ceilings are also textured and we'd like to smooth them out, but I feel better about throwing drywall up over the plaster there.  What about that?


texts: Any problem pouring concrete in layers because of the capacity of the mixer

texts:
I'm making a 9' x 8' x 3" slab as part of a repair to my driveway. The old driveway concrete has been removed from this space.  The new concrete will abut the original driveway on both sides. I'm planning on dividing it into two 4.5' x 8' sections and pouring them separately.
The two concerns I have are:

The largest mixer at my rental place can mix 10 80lb bags and each section will take about 18 bags. Should I further divide the section to do 9 bags at a pour or is it OK to pour two batches one right after/on top of the other.

Do I wait until the first section is cured or partly cured before pouring the adjacent section? There will be an expansion joint spacer between them.


texts: How can I fix a small slightly damp area in my basement wall?

texts:
I am in the process of converting a bedroom in our walkout basement, into an office.  Back in 1999, the previous owner had finished the basement.  The basement foundation walls are hollow cinder block, and there have been no water problems anywhere in the basement with the exception of this one corner of the room we are renovating.  There have been some issues with mold/damp drywall in that corner for quite a while.

I just opened the walls (drywalled studded walls, about 1" in from the cinder block), and found a 4-foot section with damp cinder block going approximately 6-inches up off the slab (above 6-inches up, all is dry).  In the previous basement finishing, poly was placed against the cinder block wall, a 1" space was left, then a studded interior wall was put up, filled with fiberglass insulation, then drywalled.

It looks like there is quite a bit of condensation on the insulation side of the poly, which is creating dampness, and is getting through to the drywall.

Any thoughts on how I might fix this problem.


texts: We are adding a ceiling in our basement (64 year old house) and can not locate a obvious shutoff valve. They recently removed the meter from within the house and put one outside, and it has a shutout valve beside the meter. I also have noticed shutoff valves farther down the pipe inside (30 feet) in front of the furnace and water heater. I am just curious if this elbow (pictured) and the nubby on the side is a shutoff valve and if i should create an access port for it.


texts: What are the possible reasons I am not getting cold air from my air conditioner?

texts: my heat pump outside is working but my central air conditioning/heating unit in the garage makes a hissing sound or faint sound of water running. There is air coming from the vents. The very last time I used the heat, about a month ago the same thing happened but when I switched to air conditioning the last month, it worked until now. What are the possible problems?


texts: Installing a larger pulley to a smaller motor shaft

texts:
With reference to the picture below,
I am trying to attach a pulley with a hole diameter of 1/2" [item #4]  to a motor shaft that is 1/4" 5/16" [item #1], but it currently does not completely fit.
Thanks to something that increases the diameter of the shaft [item #2, don't know the name], part of the motor shaft fits into the pulley.
However, when trying to install the pulley, the shaft ended up not being long enough to thread the nut [item #3] into.
Would some kind of shaft extender be required to properly install the pulley onto the motor shaft?


texts: Is it safe to build a drop down table to a wooden wall?

texts:
I have a wooden wall (I just moved in, so I don't know which wood) 6cm thick.
I want to build an IKEA Norbo drop down table (https://www.ikea.com/de/de/p/norbo-wandklapptisch-birke-80091713/). The weight of the table is 8.33kg.

Is it safe to build this table to the wall? I'm worried the wall is not strong enough and it breaks. And if it is safe, which type of screws should I use? It will be used as a kitchen table, mainly for cutting ingredients.


texts: Can I run conduit containing 120V wires inside larger conduit for 240V wires?

texts:
I was wondering if I could run 120v wires inside in a larger conduit that has higher voltage wires 240v, in a smaller piece of conduit?
The reason I ask is that I have a manufactured home and when they installed the 240v wiring coming from the meter it is run under the house in the crawlspace. It's not in conduit untill it enters the bottom of the electrical panel. When the water pump (120v) was installed they just ran it into the conduit with the 240v wiring.
I know for certain you can't run low and high voltage in the same conduit, but I thought that if I ran a 1/2" conduit inside the 2" for the 120v that would rectify the violation.


texts: My dog has a leash that is by our back porch. About 3 feet over, there's a pipe that goes into the ground. One day she got her leash wrapped around it and started pulling at it. Ever since then, there's been a giant puddle in that area. It emits a nasty sewage-like smell, but it's a pipe that runs from the kitchen. I'm not entirely sure what to do about it or how to go about fixing it. It's becoming a major issue, but I sense that it is an easy fix if I just know how to go about it. Any help?


texts: Do I glue luxury vinyl flooring ON or UNDER angled, metal threshold that transitions exterior to interior kitchen floor?

texts:
I’m installing LVF, gluing to wood floor (tongue & groove flooring). There is an angled piece of metal the width of the threshold, transitioning the exterior threshold into the kitchen.

My question is do I glue the LVF under the metal transition or over (or glue to floor and glue a strip on top of metal? Or best to paint metal)? Again, the metal transitions the exterior threshold into interior kitchen, the metal angled so as to alleviate a slight drop down into kitchen. Thoughts and / or suggestions appreciated.


texts: Duct ends behind jacuzzi tub -verify and close or move?

texts:
I've wondered for years why our 1st floor bathroom is so hot. I got a temperature gun yesterday and checked, after the heat being on for 30 minutes the inside of the tub read 120. I had to figure it out.

In the basement is a duct trunk with several round 5-6 inch branches coming off. Measuring the distance from an outside wall and looking in the thin space between duct and basement ceiling, as well as first floor layout, I think one ends behind the tub.

If I pull off the access panel in another room that leads to the motor behind the tub there's a lot of air moving out of the access panel and I'm pretty sure I can see the vent opening.

The house has an addition, this would have been an outside wall. Here's my dilemma. I could disconnect the branch from the trunk and close off the whole in the trunk. However, on the other side of that original outside wall is a family room on a slab, which is cooler than the rest of the house. The heat coming out of the ducts in there travels farther and through the slab and is no where near as hot, according to my temp gun.

So, I'm thinking of just locating the location on the family room wall where the duct is (behind a couch, sadly) and breaking through, closing the duct from entering the bathroom and instead have it enter the family room. There is already another vent in the bathroom.

Thoughts?


texts: Best paint (not spray) for outdoor plastic?

texts: What's the best type of paint (not spray) for outdoor plastic? Something that will last almost forever and comes in gallon+ buckets, and is not cost-prohibitive?


texts: Question about running new drain pipes in Laundry room

texts:
Hi I just framed out my laundry room in my basement and I'm looking to run add a utility sink and I need to add a drain line for both the washer and the utility sink though the utility sink is going to be the left of the washer so I'm not sure how I would branch off a drain from the washer drain. Here is a picture to make things a little easier to explain.

The utility sink is going to be to the far left and originally there was just a trap coming off of where the main drain line which I cut.

If I was having the utility sink before the washer near the main drain this wouldn't be an issue but since I need to run a trap for the washer how then do I branch off of that to run the line for the utility sink? Thanks


texts: Does 62 PSI water pressure with spikes of 82 PSI necessitate a water pressure valve (for a new hybrid hot water tank)?

texts:
After two days of observation of our water pressure (using a test gauge), the normal water pressure is typically between 61 and 63 PSI, with 62 being the most common reading. Peak-pressure readings have hit 82 PSI several times. I read that, according to plumbing codes, 80 PSI of pressure is the maximum for hot water heaters and anything above 80 psi can be bad for them.
I have not noticed any of the problems that are said to be associated with water pressure that is too high.


texts:
Polycell sell a SmoothOver product that is a "quick and easy way to transform cracked and damaged walls to a perfectly smooth surface that's ready to paint. Fills imperfections such as cracks, gouges and small holes." It's basically a way to skim a wall if you're not great at plastering.

Now, I've used it in the past with great results, but it does take a bit of work: you've got to keep working it to keep the paste in a creamy consistency, and while it goes on easy you still have a lot of sanding to do at the end to get the finish you're after. Not a big problem, but there is a massive problem: cost. The tubs are massively expensive and only do a relatively small area.

I've just moved house and need to skim a number of rooms, and the cost of either getting a professional to do it, or doing it myself with SmoothOver, are both prohibitive.

So, my question is: Has anyone tried to replicate this product using standard building materials? How well did you do? Do you have a recipe that works?


texts: What are the clearance requirements to roof eaves for overhead service conductors?

texts: My neighborhood is served by overhead electrical.  My current service drop attaches to the side of my house; the service mast does not extend above the roof.  As part of a larger remodel, the service drop point will need to move.  Currently, the service point is quite far away from any roof overhangs. I'd like to keep the service mast below the roofline, but the new location would have the service drop much closer to the eave (roof overhang).  Can someone point me to Code requirements for clearances above the service drop? I can only find Code for clearances below the drop.


texts: Why doesn't AC equipment come with dehumidifier only option?

texts: Every AC unit dehumidifies when cooling is on. I'm just wondering why dehumidification only is not an option, as is in standalone dehumidifiers? E.g. my basement stays pretty cool even in the summer but humidity can easily be 60-70%. I would like to run the dehumidifier in its dedicated AC unit without necessarily cooling but not have a standalone dehumidifier that has to have water drained separately. But to get it in the 40-50% range using AC, I would need to also cool the place to around 60°.


texts: Can a main load center box with no main breaker be used as a sub panel in a detached garage.  Was told to run a #2 copper since it was about 150 ft away from the house.


texts: Carrier Furnace 58STX110-14122 fan starts the first time, but fails to start at subsequent calls for heat

texts:
On a Carrier Furnace model #58STX110-14122, when the initial call for heat comes on, everything works just fine in the following order:

Thermostat sends a call for heat
Draft Inducer motor kicks on
The Hot Surface Igniter stick warms up
Gas flow begins and burners light up
After a short delay, the blower fan runs and hot air comes through the outlet registers

Now, after the thermostat temperature is realized, the system turns off (fan is in auto) and when the next call for heat comes on, all of the above steps happen except for the last one - where the blower fan does start spinning and instead produces a groaning sound. Attempts to prod it with a wooden stick do not work either. It seems stuck in place. This lack of airflow causes the system to throw error code #33 - LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT, which turns into lockout #13 - LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT since the blower doesn't turn on.

I tried replacing the oval shaped 'motor run capacitor', but the system still exhibits the same behavior as above. Resetting the system and turning it on will get the system working properly for the first time as above.

Any pointers are appreciated as I am at my wits' end here!!


texts: My freezer won't go more than 5 degrees below freezing. Thermostat seems OK so what's up?

texts:
My Samsung fridge-freezer won't go more than 5 degrees below freezing. The thermostat seems fine and has the correct resistance for its current temperature.

What else could be wrong?

The display on the front shows the freezer at -20C (I'm in the UK) when the actual temp is only -6C which isn't enough for a freezer - it should be at -18C.  The fridge compartment is fine and sits at the correct temperature of 5C above zero within 2 degrees or so.

There is no icing up. The defrost element works well (ouch) and there was no ice anywhere when I took off the cover in the freezer section.

What else should I check before calling out a (horrendously expensive) engineer?

Thanks!

EDIT:
So I took the thermistor out of the 'housing' and exposed it to free air at the very top of the freezer and no difference at all.  However, if I put the thermistor directly in a bowl of hot water, the freezer happily proceeds to move towards the correct temp of 18 degrees below freezing. What gives?!  The thermistor is completely accurate for temps above 0C so could it be it only fails once frozen? Seems very unlikely!  No idea what else could be wrong :(


texts: Difference between Distribution board main switch and mains

texts: What is the difference between a distribution board/distribution box, main switch, and mains? Are they all the same or are they difference from each other?


texts: Issue with using a smart 3 way switch, with a normal 3 way switch

texts:
I just installed a new 3 way "Smart" switch (the type used in home automation where you can control lights using your smartphone and various apps.), which allows you to control your lights automatically with your smart phone via the Wink hub. I have one light switch at the end of a hallway, and another switch at the other end. I figured i would just replace one of those switches with a new smart switch and the other one I would leave as a normal switch.

After installation though, I've run into some weird issues with the two switches. for starters, if the light is off, the old switch has to be flipped up, then back down, then up again, then back down before the light comes on. My smart switch makes a clicking noise when you turn it off and on, so when using the old switch I can hear the smart switch click when I flip the switch up almost like it's controlling the power flow to the smart switch. The smart switch on the other hand works great, unless the old switch is flipped up, then it doesn't work at all.

I've installed one of these smart switches before, but it was on a single pole switch and now a 3 way. I'm not an electrician, so while I can follow instructions and videos, I have a much harder time trouble shooting specific problems. Can someone explain to me whether this is normal or not? If need I can provide pictures of my smart switch wiring.

EDIT:

Sorry guys for the delay, I've been out trying to figure this situation out. Below is a link to the product on Leviton's website, you will see a downloadable PDF there that shows the instructions. As for how I wired it, it should be exactly as the instructions show. I connected an additional neutral wire to the bundle that was wire nutted within the box and connected it to the switch. With that wire, I now have a white neutral wire, a red wire, two black wires (One hot), and a ground wire in the box with the smart switch. The other box has 2 black wires, 1 red wire, and a ground wire.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=DZS15-1LZ&section=66154&minisite=10251

Like I mentioned early, the smart switch works fine, if the old switch is flipped down, but if I flip the switch up, the smart switch no longer works. As for my intentions for the old switch, I really don't plan on using it too much, I just wanted it there in cases I left my phone in the other room and needed to quickly turn the light on with that switch. I thought that maybe 2 smart switches needed to be installed in order to make it work, so I grabbed another smart switch that I have installed in another room to see if that would make a difference. I replaced the old switch with the 2nd smart switch (same brand and everything) and once I had that installed it resulted in neither switches working. I couldn't use either one to turn the lights off or on. I have since reinstalled the old switch back in place of the 2nd smart switch and receiving the same issue as I originally stated.

Sorry If I was lacking earlier on details, I was trying to jump back and forth from fixing the issue and asking this question.


texts: Why do my lightbulbs keep flashing then return normal

texts: My light has 2 or 4 bulbs 2 of them flash on and off 3 times then nothing else but one does it then the other why?


texts:
I am remodeling a kitchen for a customer and they would like to relocate their sink across the kitchen which is a little over 10’ away.
Is this acceptable with all the bends that would be needed to vent sink at its new location?


texts: How do I replace a strip light with wiring that doesn't match the old light?

texts:
I'm replacing a strip light, but the wiring on the light I'm putting up does not match that of the strip I'm taking out.

Coming out of the ceiling there are two cables. The larger white cable contains a live, a neutral and an earth wire. Alongside it is a white cable containing one live wire.

Here's the wiring of the light that's being removed. It has a row of three screw holes plus an additional point for the earth. The red wire from the single cable is wired to the upper screw. The three screws are labeled P, N and P - (Positive, Neutral, Positive). There are two bulbs on this light.

I'm removing two of these lights, each with two bulbs. There are two dimmer switches on the wall, each dimming one bulb on each of these units.

Now here's the light that will be going up. There are three screws; a live an earth and a neutral.

I don't know how to assign the four wires coming from the ceiling with these three screw holes.

Any help would be much appreciated. I'm in Australia.


texts: I have 2-2-2-4 AL dyke quadruplex direct burial 600v. with AC/heater wall unit. with about 9 plugs. a small hot water heater. and 9 can lights.  is a 60amp breaker big enough. Also the wire is running about 100ft from main to a subpanel


texts: Can the kitchen sink waste pipe run from where it comes out of the concrete slab to the sink by running horizontally under the cabinet floor?

texts: We are converting a peninsula into an island and need to move the kitchen sink. As a result the waste pipe in the concrete slab comes out in the front (see photos) instead of the back. We don't want to jackhammer the slab (I think HOA forbids it) but I wondered if we could come out of the slab with a 90 degree elbow, run under the cabinet floor so and come out in the back of the cabinet where it used to be, or even in the hollow wall we have built behind the cabinets. Also we need to replace the floor of the sink cabinet so we could even raise the floor a little higher.


texts: Why is my electric wall heater slow to turn on and then quick to shut off?

texts:
I have a few electric wall heaters in my bathroom and laundry room made by Intertherm.  They may be 30 years old.  When you turn the dial to high, it takes 10 minutes or more before it actually turns on.  Is the thermostat working correctly?  If not, is there a fix?

Update: fixed from Nutone to Intertherm.  Also, they seem to shut off pretty quickly after they start up, and then they stay off.


texts:
I purchased a house about 2 years ago with a bathroom vent fan. When we bought that house it was running constantly and we kinda looked over it (first house lol).
In the bathroom there is one light switch (for the lights) and an outlet next to it (Which is strange...an outlet that high?) however the light switch does not control the exhaust fan.
Is it possible that the fan was never hooked up and expected to be ran continuously? How big of a job would it to be to take out that outlet (which is useless cause it's near the bathroom door and high up) and just add a switch for the vent fan? Surely the vent fan isn't expected to just always run? It has a timer on it but that doesn't seem to do anything?
There are more wires behind the switch socket. Is there any way I can test to see if any go to the exhaust fan?
Edit(More Details): House is approx 6 years old (built in late 2011).
imgur link to vent and outlet box:http://imgur.com/a/HYnb5
Since some things are hard to see, on the switch itself there are 2 black wires that go to it and a ground wire (theirs also a bundle of ground wires in the back with a green cap).
There are also 3 white wires and 3 black wires each bundles with their own cap behind all this (tough to see but I counted 3 per)
The outlet plug has 1 black wire on it's left side and 1 white wire on it's right side, and a ground wire. The weird thing about this one...is the white one is HOT (as in when I test it with the wire tester it beeps) but the black one doesn't beep. Regardless the outlet does indeed work.
The fan will continuously run, and I'm thinking maybe where the outlet was there used to be a switch?


texts: How do I identify which neutral wire to attach to my GFCI breaker?

texts:
I want to replace a standard 15A breaker with a GFCI breaker. There are 10-15 circuits coming into the breaker box in conduit, not in NM-B cables.
How do I determine which neutral (of the 10-15) goes with the specific circuit I'm looking to change to GFCI?


texts: What is "code" and what should a DIYer know about it?

texts:
I've heard people who work in construction and here on this site discuss "code", and when this happens someone sites a specific document such as the National Electrical Code or International Plumbing Code or similar.

(I'm assuming electrical and plumbing would be most important because they both result in thousands of dollars of property damage (fire or water damage)....)

If I'm about to start a DIY project, what should I know about codes, and assuming I know what kind of project I'm doing (plumbing, drywall, etc.) how do I know which document I need to get my hands on in order to make sure I don't do things egregiously badly?


texts: How to Replace Exterior Door & Casing in Old House

texts:
My house is about 100 years old. The door jamb is about 10" wide. I've replaced a few doors before, but all of them had standard jams. I'm not sure how to go about replacing this. I'm assuming I need to pull all of the trim & casing out, then pull the brick-molding off the door frame, then slide the frame all of the way back flush with the inside wall. Mount the frame, then re-install casing & trim. Also, i'm not sure where I stop removing the trim & casing at the top, since there is a top-light above the door. Below are a few pics.

Please help point me in the right direction.


texts: Can I add two motion lights to an existing circuit?

texts: Can I use an exsisting line that feeds an outlet, and can I cut that line from the attic and use a junction box to feed power to new lights. I will be placing the ligts about 30 feet from each other.


texts: What is the risk of using tandem breakers in a panel that doesn't allow them?

texts:
I have a PoN Square D QO 200A rated panel with a 100A main breaker. Model QO154M200P
This panel allows 10 tandem breakers, but as some of you know the older QO double breakers (without the hook) fit anywhere just fine. I used two but I wonder about risks of using more.
Assuming no shared neutrals or mwbc what are the risks of using a few double breakers?


texts:
I am getting these glass block spacers for 4" blocks but the website I got it from says nothing about the thickness of the joint it provides.

I would like to build my framing before it arrives (could be up to 2 weeks) in the meantime but, for that, I need to factor the joint to calculate the width my glass block window. Can you guess it from the picure (my guess is something like 3/16-1/4")?


texts: How do I remedy mold/mildew that has appeared since blocking off ventilation?

texts:
I have a Ranch home with a finished rec room in the basement. It is our second year in the house. We had no mold/mildew problems last year. I put new carpet in the family room above basement and I filled in and covered a cold air return vent. The basement door is now very tight because the new carpeting is very thick. I also put two new glass block windows in the basement. Now I have mold/mildew showing up on most of the lower paneling in the basement.

Is it because of lack of air flow? How can I fix it?


texts:
I bought a used ladder a few days ago. It's an Eagle brand "Multi-Way Ladder" that can be used as a step ladder or a short straight extension ladder. The model number is LP-711E.
Unfortunately I can't find a manual or manufacturers site for it even though it appears to still be a current model, and some of the stickers on the ladder are worn/ scratched off, so I'm not 100% sure how to use it in either configuration.
Can anyone tell me the correct way to set it up in both step ladder and extension mode? I'm hoping someone has the same ladder or the equivalent from another manufacturer and can provide pictures showing how to do this right.
Here is a picture of it in what I think is the basic stepladder configuration:

I've found the same model on several store's websites, with pictures of it in step and extension mode, but very low res so I can't tell exactly what has to slot into what to get it in and out of each mode properly. Here is an example from Rona:

I notice the pic from Rona has two black plastic claws that appear to hold the round rungs of the upper section in extension mode while mine has that aluminum scoop looking thing that I think serves the same purpose.
Thanks.


texts: Can a digital wall timer be used with a baseboard heater?

texts: Can the Eaton PT18M-W-K (1800-Watt 15 Amp) timer be used for a 1500-Watt baseboard heater? According to the specs, the answer appears to be "yes". However, "heater" is conspicuously absent from the list of devices that can be connected to it.


texts: How can I remove 1/2" PVC pipe that has broken off inside a 1/2" elbow?


texts: Range plug prongs are slightly exposed - Is that dangerous?

texts: I just had a new range installed in the kitchen.  The cord's prongs do not quite go in all the way.  There's not a lot of space, maybe 1/8th to 1/4th inch.  Is there any risk to the prongs not going completely into the socket?  Thanks.


texts:
Our dark colored clothes are coming out of the laundry with wet or oily looking small, round stains. We do not wash oily clothes or rags -- either shop grease or kitchen grease. This does not happen to our light colored loads. You cannot see the stains while they are on wet clothes, so they are set in by the dryer before we can see them. We have a used Maytag Neptunefront-loading washing machine and dryer. This has been happening for the several months we have had it.

We have run several empty loads: some with hot water and bleach, some with hot water and baking soda, with vinegar in the softener dispenser. We use Sun "free&clear" environmentally friendly detergent "safe for HE machines" and cut down to using 1-2 tbs instead of the full recommended amount. Then we added about an equal amount of dish liquid to the detergent and cut the amount we use down to 1 tbs. We have tried large and small amounts of OxiClean in each load. We have always used vinegar instead of fabric softener. Nothing seems to prevent the oily stains showing up when we wash colored clothes in cold water. I'm stumped!


texts: Can I add a service panel in the shed near a generator which powers a cabin?

texts:
I currently have a 200amp Main panel in my off-grid cabin I am building.  I want to feed the panel from my generator which is about 100' in a shed.  Originally my contractor a few years back buried cables between the shed and cabin.  They are (2) 4/0 and (1) 2/0 cable. I have them terminated in cabin panel. I was wondering if I can put another 200amp panel (or 150amp)in my shed, since the 4/0 and 2/0 are stubbed out in the shed (not connected to anything).  I am also assuming that really my "main" panel should be the in the shed, and the "sub" panel in the cabin.
My Honeywell generator is a 12kw standby generator, which will supply 50amps I believe.
Can I do this?


texts: How do I remove vinyl glue off of tile flooring?

texts: I had a flood in my bathroom and there were two layers of vinyl tile that i ripped up because of water getting underneath. Lo and behold I have a tile floor and the glue from the vinyl is very sticky and I am not sure the best way to remove it.  i have tried Goo Gone and that did not work. I have tried a wire brush attachment to a drill and that did not work either.


texts: How can I get my fluorescent light fixtures to work with an occupancy sensor?

texts:
I have a Leviton PR150-1LI occupancy sensor in my garage. I have two 4 foot T8 fluorescent fixtures (each has 2 bulbs). Neither fixture originally had rapid magnetic start ballasts.

At this time, the motion sensor would cause the lights to attempt to turn on, they would flicker for a second or two, and then shut off for 2-3 seconds. This cycle would repeat endlessly.

The switch requires rapid magnetic start ballasts to properly function. I purchased 2 of these rapid magnetic start ballasts. I installed one of them on the light furthest from the switch.

At this time, the motion sensor would cause the lights to turn on and stay on, but they flicker/buzz.

While testing the circuit I found that if I splice an incandescent test bulb between the switch and the first fixture causes both fixtures work well with the motion sensor: full, constant brightness with zero buzzing.

I came across this thread that describes what I experience. The only solutions suggested there are to get a different switch or to add an incandescent fixture into the mix permanently.

I know I could install the second rapid start ballast. I know I could purchase different occupancy sensor that doesn't rely on a specific load coming from the circuit to function.

I'm wondering if there is a cheaper solution someone might suggest.


texts: Do I need an electrician to install a whole house surge protector?

texts: We have some pretty terrible storms and a pretty terrible power company where I live. We experience power surges quite often. So I'm interested in installing a whole-house surge protector. Is this something I would probably want an electrician to install, or is it something I could do myself?


texts: What options are there for converting from a wood stove to another type of heating system?

texts: My folks are into their 80's now and live in rural Maine. Their ONLY way of heating their home is with a wood stove - just a single wood stove. Up to this point, my folks have been able to tend the stove but because of health reasons, this situation can not continue much longer. Presently, there is no duct work. Unfortuneately, the house was built for a wood stove. My sisters and I are looking to have some type of propane gas heat system installed. What types of systems are available that can be retrofitted?


texts: Slate tile on outdoor path - how to fix loose tiles

texts: I have a slate walkway that is a concrete base with slate tiles laid on top. The tiles are about 10 ins by 20 ins and 1/4 to half inch thick. There's a section of about four tiles that comes loose every year.  I've had it fixed several times, but always the same group of tiles comes loose.  We hardly ever get a frost.  I suspect it may be related to those tiles getting very hot in the summer with the sun shining on them for a few hours, the tiles expanding and coming loose from the tiling mortar or cement that is used to stick the tiles to the concrete.  What would be the best way for me to fix them?


texts:
I have a Camper that needs a 30 amp service. Its about 125' away from the panel in the house. I'm looking into using aluminum, but I'm struggling to find the right information.
I see 6-6-6 URD and it seems perfect for what I'm looking at. Cheap, can handle 50 amps. Since I'm only doing 30 amp service, seems like a win.
But everything I'm reading is suggesting 2-2-4 URD. Isn't this overkill?
Any suggestions on how to cheaply run this would be great.


texts: Turning off Power to Thermostat to Replace It

texts:
I'm replacing my old thermostat due to issues with it somehow not staying at my set temperature. It's a Simple Comfort 2001, and I'm replacing it with a newer model, a Simple Clean 2001L. Both of them are programmable thermostats. I live in a 2-story house with one HVAC unit outside of the house for the ground floor, and one unit in the attic for the second floor. In order to change out the thermostat, I killed power in my main breaker, shutting off power to everything. However, even though the HVAC unit was off, I noticed that the thermostat was still displaying the set temperature of 45 degrees. It was also the same with the downstairs thermostat. This shouldn't be possible. They don't run on batteries, so why would the thermostat still be displaying? Is there a second switch in my HVAC unit that I should turn off? I don't want to needlessly try to switch it out in a situation like this and get electrocuted, so I wanted to ask about it first.

One thing to mention is the house. It was built in 2004 I believe, and the original thermostats are still here. It's not one of those systems built in the '90s, so I'd say it's relatively modern as it could be. It runs on gas, not electric, so would it be strange if there was a second breaker that I would have to turn off in order to make sure that I can change out the thermostat?


texts: Safety when drilling walls in the house?

texts:
I'm currently fitting CCTV around my house which requires lots of drilling with a rather large bit (25mm).

My question is regarding safety when drilling as i don't want to hit any wiring and or water pipes. I know you can buy detectors, but from what I've read they seem pretty unreliable and pointless as they only work about an inch deep, especially with my house being old and the interior walls being brick rather than board.

How can i best stay safe in this situation?
I need to drill several holes through the cavity and several on interior walls. So how best to do this and not hit wires/pipes?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I have an old house and want to add an GFCI to the "first" outlet to add protection to the the outlet. However, one of the rooms has multiple end receptacles which means there are only one hot and one neutral wire coming in each box. How were these outlets wired?
Thanks in advance.


texts: I was wondering if Any one knew whether there is an effective way to clean out the steel drain pipe from my bathroom sink. Also, the fitting where it attaches to the main stack (cast iron) is badly corroded & leaking. My bathroom sink is presently not draining. Do I snake or put in new pipe. Are the cast iron fittings difficult to work with?


texts: Electrical surges, lights flicker/dim them go back to normal

texts: I live in a mobile home, first issues I've had electrically. I noticed the lights would dim from time to time, a fan that was in the bedroom would run like it was on low even though I put it to the highest setting. First thing I did was called utility company to come check meter readings and such and he said they had good voltage even with everything on with no fluctuation. He told me to get a reading on the breakers in the box and see what I could come up with. Borrowed a good meter from work and checked the breakers, the main, a double pole which is a 100amp breaker (assuming since it says 100 on the handle for both) is the first I checked. The bottom one reads a constant 118 and the top would go from that range down to 78 during the dimming of lights. Is this just a bad main breaker that isn't letting the full juice through? Calling an electrician tomorrow but figured I'd get some feed back from here just in case someone else is having a similar issue. The home itself is only 15 years old. Possibly not balanced correctly in the box?


texts: Need help choosing correct wire to a detached garage

texts: What size wire is needed from a 200 amp home box going 175 feet to a panel in detached garage. Would it be 3 wire or 4 wire?


texts:
I'm looking to get some air conditioning sorted for the flat for the hot summer months, something portable that I can store in the winter.

There are two outputs/wastes from an air conditioner: water + hot air. Water can be captured in the device or some sort of tray however I am struggling with what to do for the exhaust of hot air.

It's a ground floor flat so I don't want to keep any window open. The windows do however, have trickle vents. So I am wondering if I can use the trickle vent to output the hot air or is this going to be a bad idea, because its such a small opening, will it pose a problem.


texts:
I have an apartment with 5 rooms inside. I painted the whole studio five years ago. I didn't really use the room. I left the apartment closed. The paint on the wall now dried out, a little faded from the original color. Some parts are damaged but the whole studio still remains the same.

I've already fixed the damage and I'm finding it hard to match the paint to the existing color of the room. I don't want to repaint the whole studio. Do you know any way to do that?

Thank you for your time.


texts: Can you get an "optionally cordless" or "hybrid" drill?

texts: I'm looking to buy a new drill, but all of them seem to be corded or cordless.  Are there drills that can either run cordless, or off the mains, depending on whether it's plugged in?  It seems that would give the best of both worlds.


texts: Is it okay to have an ungrounded light fixture?

texts:
I recently moved into an older home (built in 1968) and have been replacing some of the older light fixtures. We pulled down one of the lights and found that there is a ground running into the box but the light fixture itself doesn't have a ground to hook up to it.

My wife is considering refurbishing the look of the light instead of replacing it... is it okay to use the light even though it's not grounded?


texts: How to wire a switch with two black wires and one yellow wire?

texts:
I'm new to the DIY community. I'm currently working on changing my switches to smart switches. I've done two single poles successfully but now I have some trouble with this one.
This is my bedroom light switch. I think it's a single pole as I don't see any other switches that control the same light. But there's two black wires and one yellow wire, which confused me.
Can anyone let me know what they are and how I can wire them to a smart switch?
I'm using lutron smart switch that has two black wire, one green/white wire, and one bare wire.


texts: Will spilling a little liquid (beer, say) on untreated plywood for very little time damage or warp it?

texts:
Okay, this one's a tad silly, but I really need to know:

If plywood sheets are being used as a temporary surface, and have roughly 20 ounces of a liquid spilled on them, can you assume that no damage (warping, etc.) will occur if the spill is quickly wiped up (in less than a minute, say)?

Assume the liquid is not water, but I don't care about staining since we're painting it next week - I'm only concerned with warping, rot risk, etc.

(Okay if you must know, I need to use a beer pong table today, but haven't had time to paint and seal the wood yet.  So, I'm trying to confirm that spilling two beers on a flat plywood sheet before it's treated won't cause any real damage if it's immediately wiped up.)

EDIT: One of the answers mentions support as a relevant consideration, so I should add that most of the wood (~80% will be supported by a smaller flat surface (a table).


texts: How to remove silicone from a porous wall?

texts:
I recently removed a door bell and I got a sillicone stain in the wall.
The wall is basically red brick.

The brick individually are kind of irregular and present some superficial porosity.

This means that the remaining sillicone is hard to remove.

What can I do to clean it? is there any way to dissolve it?

Are there any home made solutions?


texts: GE profile cooking range traditional glass cooktop not working properly

texts:
I have GE profile traditional glass cooktop

as you can see in the smaller yellow square, only the inside circle should turn red. But the outside circle turns red first.

Could you suggest -

what could be causing this problem amd what part should i buy to fix it? parts are available at this site
how much would it cost to fix it?
should i buy a new range - everything except below is working fine

-----------update 1 - adding model number

JP989BK1BB General Electric Cooktop - Overview

parts are available at this site

-----------------update 2 ---requesting part numbers for remaining switches

as i am going to replace one switch, i am thinking of replacing remaining 3 too. Could you take a look and let me know the part number? would i need 3 of Infinite Control Switch/ part 19 ?


texts: Can a 6x6 post be used horizontally to support the walls of a shed?

texts: Can a 6x6 post be used horizontally to support exterior walls of a shed?  6 x 6 will be supported every 5 ft on a concrete pier.


texts: How should I fix a small crack hole in Mirolin 3-piece tub/shower?

texts:
We've got an acrylic Mirolin tub/shower that recently developed a small pea-sized crack/hole in the bottom, causing water to gush out when the tub is filled. I just ordered a repair kit from gelcoat.ca, but I have some doubts about how well it's going to work.

Does anyone have any experience with kits like this? Can I expect a reasonably long life from it, or am I looking at replacing the whole tub/shower because of this crack?


texts: I understand the workings of steam and hot water radiators, however there has been a nagging question in my mind about why we first heat water (for steam or hot water) before we heat the radiator. Why can't we use hot air to heat the radiators? For example, why can't I hold a propane torch at the bottom of an inlet opening of a radiator and heat the radiator that way? It seems to me that the radiator would heat faster and more efficiently that way.


texts: Do dimmers and timers not have Amp spec?

texts: I have noticed that single pole switches are spec'ed for either 15 or 20 Amp.  However, I could not find this rating for dimmer and fan timer switches.  They only list voltage.  Is this because they can be used on either 15 or 20 Amp circuits? If so, why?


texts: I bought a pendant lamp only has 1 blue and 1 green wire how do I connect to my ceiling that has ground, black and white wires ?


texts: Replacing sink trap with a flexible one?

texts:
Bathroom sink was not properly installed. It is a little misaligned. I cannot align it appropriately because the rigid  trap pipe does not allow for it. I am thinking of replacing the P Trap ( only the U shaped pipe) with a flexible one.
Here is a picture:

Can I connect a flexible plastic P trap to both metal pipes? Or what is best material?
What else should I take in consideration when replacing the trap? And any product recommendation?

Here is a picture of how the sink is shifted to accommodate the pipes:


texts: How do I fix flattened carpet pile? Can I prevent this from happening?

texts:
As is often the case when replacing furniture, I've just bought a new sofa, but the old one has left "footprints" where the carpet pile has been squashed under the feet of the old one.

Is there anything that can be done to make the old footprints blend in? Similarly, is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future?


texts:
The light dimmer of my chandelier broke recently so I went buy a new one (incandescent 120 V 600W). The one that broke was fairly old (sticker on the dimmer mentions 1987).

Since I'm pretty novice about electrical stuff I took a few picture before installing the new one.

As you can see it is sharing the wallbox with a light switch and there was two black wires connected in the wall. The dimmer I bought has a third green wire for grounding. What should I do with this third wire ? For now I capped it and it's working fine but I'm concerned about safety. Shouldn't this be connected somehow ? If so where ? I'm not sure that the wall box itself is grounded.

Thanks in advance for your help.


texts: Adding a C wire to thermostat with oil berner and AC

texts:
I have a oil burner for baseboard heat and forced air AC that is controlled by one thermostat. There are a total of 5 wires coming to the thermostat 2 wires from the boiler and 3 wires coming from the AC. I want to to replace the thermostat with Honeywell wifi thermostat that requires a C-wire.
My current wire is a 5-wire. Assuming that I will be able to pull a new 6 or 7-wire to the thermostat my question is where do the connect the other end of the C-wire.
Can I connect it to the boiler? Do I need 2 C-wires one each for boiler and AC?

The boiler is Buderus G115WS/4.. It has 3 zones. Zone 1 for first floor, zone 2 for 2nd floor and zone 3 for hot water.

A/c handler is Carrier model FX4ANF030

At the thermostat
Red -> R
Blue -> Rc
Green -> G
Yellow -> Y
White  -> W


texts: Putting 4 wires to each breaker input & Torques required

texts:
Update. To those who insert 2 wire to each terminal or 4 wires to the breakers, and just increase the torque to compensate for it. What torques did you use (did you increase it?). My 10-50 in-lbs torque screwdriver (with certification) finally arrived.

If there are two wires inserted in one breaker terminal. What must be the torque for say two AWG 10 wires? Must it be 20 in-lbs or 25 in-lbs (based on the following breaker in the picture). What do you think?

Getting the desired torque is very important to be sure the two wires and terminal lugs should have conduction at least equal to the wire original area.

original message:

Given a 30A breaker and AWG 10 wires. What is the problem if you insert 2 pcs of AWG 10 to each terminal (hence 4 wires for each breaker)? I'm not asking about current and protection by breaker or capacity as I have taken all these into account already, But I'm  just asking what is technically wrong with inserting 2 wires in each terminal (when the breaker doesn't have any listing about it). Remember as long as the terminal is screwed tight, there would be full electrical contacts between them and no arcing, heating, right? What can possibly go wrong?


texts:
In the past, I've replaced old incandescent can lights with LEDs and it has been a breeze.
For the latest can light I'm replacing though, the attachment is different and I can't find an LED retrofit that would seem to work.
This is the inside of the current can and the trim that attaches using the slots at the top:

Here is a typical retrofit LED:

The can doesn't have the holes on the side for the prongs of the retrofit LED.  Instead there are some clips right next to the light socket.  There are also the vertical slots closer to the bottom of the can but I don't know what they are for.
Is there a way to attach this LED to this can?  Another LED that would work?  Or am I out of luck?


texts: How can I install an electrical panel in my shed?

texts:
I recently purchased a house that has two 30 amp breakers going to a shed for lights and outlets. How would I go about doing that correctly?
Can I tie the two 30 amp breakers  to the shed together and install a 60 amp subpanel in the shed? Then have 15 and 20 amp breakers for the lights and outlets?
Any advice would be appreciated.


texts:
So my house was built in 1957, I have shiplap siding and behind black boards that are fireproof.
On the photo you can see the exterior wall where these boards are. Should I use unfaced insulation or faced ?


texts: Could a saturated drain field cause a toilet to back up?

texts:
My drain field is over saturated from excessive rain, but before I figured that out, I replaced the wax ring on one toilet due to leakage from the bottom.  I also had to replace the flange and build up the flooring next to the pipe as it seemed to be deteriorated (gone).

I was having no issues with the second toilet. I had not flushed the toilets or run any water in the house for a week, and flushed the toilet that I had replaced the ring, heard gurgling in the shower, but water seeped out from the bottom of the second toilet.

I called a Septic Pumping company, explained the yard has excessive water in it, that I just recently had the septic tanks pumped and asked if that would alleviate the issues. To which they told me no, that I would have to wait until the yard dried out.

Will I have to replace the ring on the second toilet? Could there be issues with the existing drain field, which I assume is 32 years old as the house was built in 1982? I did not have any issues with drains or toilets flushing prior to the rains.


texts: What is this door lock hardware part called?

texts: We have Baldwin Prestige series front door entry handset. While removing the handle from the door to refinish the door, the screws broke off inside this little mechanism. Does anybody know what this is called? I have searched endlessly online for the part and cannot find it anywhere. I might have better luck if I know the name of the part. Thank you


texts: How many CFM for a range hood do I REALLY need?

texts:
I like to cook. I would like to put in a fairly powerful range (nothing huge, though; I don't need six burners and a griddle), and will need a hood that can carry smoke, heat, steam, grease, etc. from cooking out of the house. The trend seems to be huge hoods with, e.g., 1200 CFM, and a lot of people say you "don't need that", but then I do know that a lot of people don't actually COOK in their kitchen. I'm not convinced that I have any need for 1200 CFM, but I'm also not convinced that something like 350 CFM will be sufficient. Assume I'll have a 30" Wolf all-gas range (not sold on Wolf, but most of what I'm looking at is in that ballpark in terms of BTUs, so it's a good comparison), and be using two or three burners on the stove five or six nights a week, the oven three or four nights a week, and cooking things that may produce large volumes of steam and/or smoke and grease vapor (boiling/simmering large pots of water, stir fries, roasting meat, pan-searing steak) at least half of that. I don't want all that going out into my house, and I certainly don't want it clogging up the filters/core of an HRV, so I need a hood that can exhaust it. How do I size hood CFM appropriately for both the amount of gas that will be combusted, and the amount/scale of my cooking? I don't want absurd overkill, but I don't want my smoke detectors going off when I roast a chicken.

NOTE: I've split the second question I asked out into this question.


texts: How can I pull a wire through a pipe that has too many turns for fish tape?

texts:
I need to replace a sump pump, but have run into a problem.  The route for the cord goes through a 2" pipe with two 90 degree bends, and fish tape is ineffective.  The pipe appears poorly jointed as well and uneven. Is there a way to get the cord through this convoluted pipe?

The old cord is already out of the pipe, and cannot be used to drag a pull string.


texts: connecting ceiling light to existing, what to do with the only existing red

texts: My kitchen light works on a dimmer switch. In my original setup the light (from 2002) had some sort of transformer box inside the top with two red wires on one end, one black and one white on the other end, these connected the transformer to the the black and white leads from the light itself (black-black) and (white-white) and the two reds connected to a single red wire in the ceiling box. The ceiling box itself has 3 black together, 3 white together and the single red, I guess it's two incoming 14-2 wires with a single incoming 14-3 wire. The dimmer only operates the kitchen light though, and it's the only switch in the house that does this. My new light has no red, only a black and white with a ground, apparently it's a dimmable light, but there's no transformer like my old light. If I connect the red to the three blacks that are together in the box, then add in the black from the new light fixture, that's a lot of wires in a single marret. Right now I have a temporary construction pony-tail light (black and white only) and it doesn't work with the switch, I have to unscrew it to turn it off. I have the black with the other 3 blacks, and the white with the other 3 whites. Any advice would be very much appreciated! Thank you.


texts: I own an open loft (I have open view to the living room from the second floor), however, I feel that I'm wasting a lot of space. I want to know if is possible to close the second story completely and add more footage to the already second floor (200 sq ft) and leave it as a normal second story home. Do you think is possible? How much would it cost?? Please, I need help! thanks!


texts: Proper wiring of ceiling fan with a remote and one wall switch

texts:
Wiring from the Ceiling:
Black
Red
White
Copper ground

Wiring from Remote:
Input side: black and white wires
Output side: white, black, blue, and green (ground)

Wiring from Fan motor:
black, white, blue, green (ground)

The fan is turned on from a single wall switch.  I want to power the fan from the wall switch and then use the remote to change fan speed and the light.

How do I wire this combination?
Thanks!


texts: How can I fit a Schlage lockset in my front door?

texts:
I moved into a condo with a Kwikset lockset in the door. I wanted to replace it with a Schlage lockset, but the actual bolt portion of the deadbolt was too large to fit into the pre-drilled hole. If it was a wooden door I would just expand the hole a little bit, but it's a steel door. It looks like the holes for the lock were pre-fabricated into the door and lined with plastic.

Can I expand the hole? If not, what are my options as far as getting a new steel door made that will fit a Schlage lock? Finally, what other measures can I take to secure my front door? It's the only vulnerable point of entry, and there have been a string of breakins in my condo complex lately.


texts: Can Laminate flooring be installed on Steps?

texts:
Can Laminate flooring be installed on steps?  I've seen that many laminate flooring manufacturers offer stair nose pieces like this.  It would seem that you would fasten (with finish nails) the thick part of this nose to the step, and that this would provide the "4th wall" that you need for floating laminate floor installation.

The flooring person at the local "Big Box" store said this couldn't be done, however.

Just curious if this can be done or not.


texts: Improving Cell Signal to Increase Data Speeds

texts:
I just moved to a very rural area in Western WA  on the top of a hill. My internet options are very slow (< 3Mb/s) DSL, Sat, and using my cell provider (Verizon Wireless) for internet. The last option is what I primarily use, however, the signal is somewhat weak inside the house and my data connection becomes very slow. I can put my phone up against certain windows on the upper floor and that dramatically improves the signal and data transfer speeds, so I'm trying to come up with a way to effectively boost the signal without the need to keep my phone pinned against a window.

What is the best way to boost the signal? I don't care so much about calls, which work fine, but trying to boost the 4G LTE signal/data transfer speed. An effective method for me could be using some kind of antenna and amplifier into a Wifi router.

Any suggestions?


texts: Stacking 'Main lug' load centers for garage

texts:
I am aware of most NEC codes and am actually asking if this is allowed, There really shouldn't be any reason..I also fully understand keeping my netural and ground seperate and how the bus bars are bridged and grounding case screw etc.

But I could be missing something..And the basic reason for the question..instead of purchasing a larger panel I have a few of these laying around....

I do know you can power the bus bars via a circuit breaker.

Can I also use the actual lugs on that bus bars to send that power to another lug type panel... I do not see why not if connected correctly.

The picture explains pretty clear... I wanna double up the cheapos. They will be connected with 2in+ PVC to which I could never go over my conduit fill. I also am aware there is nothing stopping me from 'butting' them up to one another withe the open holes.


texts:
I've an old shower in my house that was leaking when I moved in 8 years ago. I removed the faucet and, for 7 years now, I've not been able to remove the stem. (yes, that's a long time, but kids got in the way :) ).

I just purchased a Moen stem puller (not sure of the make\model of the stem), but it was unable to thread in so I could pull the stem out.

Ideas?

Thank you


texts: Changing out programmable Light Switch, wire help needed!

texts:
When we moved into our house 4 years ago that was built back in 1960 we had the programmable light switch that controls the front porch light replaced by an electrician that was doing some other work on the house since it wasn't working. Well 4 years later this one isn't working so I thought I would replace it with a new one.

I went to home depot and they asked what kind of wiring we had and I told him just black and white wires. He stated that the new programmable switches they carried wouldn't work with our wiring since there was no neutral wire in there. They said I would have to try and find an older version of the programmable switches to work. They said the new switches that have a green wire that need to be connected to a neutral wire and that since we only have black and white wires there is no neutral. I just wanted to see if anyone new if in fact what the home depot person said is correct and that we don't have neutral wires in this switch box. If so is there a way to hook up a new programmable switch or do I need to find an older one. Thanks for any help you can provide me with!

Ok here is some added info, I was looking at using the Defiant Model 49814 switch, here is pic I grabbed on the web of the wiring of the back of the unit

I have included a picture of our wiring. There are 2 switches the one on the left (top of pic)  is the programmable switch and the one on the right is a switch with a dimmer.


texts: The cover is missing from this thermostat, so I don't what brand or model it is and I don't have the manual for it.


texts: Honeywell Mercury Themostat 3 Wire, replace with Digital/Programmable?

texts:
Have an old Honeywell thermostat (house is 17 years old). Wondering if I can replace it with a newer Digital or Programmable one?

Here are some pictures of it.


texts: wiring a single bathroom fan servicing 2 rooms in the master bathroom suite with 2 separate switches on the same circuit as well as lighting

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How can I wire an exhaust fan to turn on from multiple locations?

I am having trouble trying to wire a single in-line bathroom fan servicing a master bathroom suite. There is a commode room as well as a shower room, each with its own lighting and switching from a single circuit.  I want to be able to turn on and off the fan and lighting from each room. I have tried in vain using parallel switching which causes the opposite side of the closed switch to become energized rendering it useless. A similar result occurs using 3-way switching. Can I use a relay to energize the fan after the lighting in the circuit or am I just so thick that I cannot see the obvious. I live in rural New York if that helps. Thanks, Multivon


texts: I have loose screws - how can I tell a drywall screw apart from a wood screw?

texts:
Say I have a bunch of screws. Say they are all flat (countersunk) head, phillips drive. They can be different shank/root diameter, with or without a smooth shank, different thread coarseness, color, etc.

They all have a pointy end, about the same angle of point with maybe a small difference in how far from the point the threading ends. They are all magnetic.

Exhibit A:

I know screw #1 is a decking screw and I know that screw #7 is drywall, because that's what the packages said. #6 is brass-color and #8 is gray (and rust), the others being the color they look to be.

Wood screws will generally have a smooth shank at the top, being wood screws, but some (like #9 I think) don't. And a lot of drywall screws are black.

I have a lot of loose screws. How can I determine the types of screws?


texts: Why aren't GFCI and AFCI breakers combined or used together?

texts:
In household circuit breaker panels, you'll find two different types of breakers: Arc Fault and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters.

Ground Fault (GFCI) breakers are typically used in places where water might come in contact with an outlet/wire, such as bathrooms and garages. They have circuitry to sense when the current out is different from the current in, which usually means the circuit is shorted to ground. This is to prevent electrical shock to humans.

Arc Fault (AFCI) breakers sensors to check for arcing, in order to prevent electrical fires.

(And then there's just regular circuit breakers, which trip if the current drawn through them is over their limit, such as 20 amps.)

Why are these two not combined into a single breaker which trips if it detects either condition? Or, alternately, why not have one of each breaker in series for each circuit, for the same result?

EDIT - Looks like AFCI and GFCI are sometimes combined by using an AFCI breaker combined with a GFCI outlet (the kind with the Test and Reset buttons, often seen in bathrooms). But that still leaves most outlets with only current-limiting protection, why?


texts: Can existing electrical wiring in a 35-year-old house be easily replaced to carry more amps by a Journeymen electrician? or will drywalls need to be opened for access?


texts: LED lights with programmable wall switch

texts: I've recently replaced a standard 3-pole switch with the Honeywell RPLS540A programmable switch. The product says that it is not compatible with CFL or LED lighting. I foolishly did not read the fine print and only discovered this after installation. I had two overhead CFLs and they flickered when the switch was turned off, which I came to learn was due to the issue discussed here. I've replaced the CFLs with LEDs and everything seems to be working fine despite the claim of "incompatibility" with both CFLs and LEDs. Is there any reason that this setup has created a potential safety/fire/shock issue? Or if things are working normally can I be reasonably confident that I'm okay?


texts: Are there any tips to prevent or reduce dust when working with drywall?

texts: With regard to patching, sawing, or drilling into/through drywall that is already installed (adding some outlets and ceiling fans), where dust control is a priority (the owner is very tidy), can anyone offer some tips and/or advice for keeping the dust to a minimum?


texts: Is it possible to cut a larger opening in this window / serving hatch of this pool house?

texts:
I'm curious if it is possible to cut a taller opening in this pool house or if that would create structural issues supporting the roof

From the inside you can see I would remove the 3 stubby studs and the 2x4 below it, leaving the 2x4 above that sits under the 4x4s that hold the roof. I'd add longer 2x4s to the left and right.

Longer view of it:

From the front you can see I would need to cut into the exterior trim but also a 2x8. That's my biggest concern. Does that act as a header to distribute the load or are the horizontal 4x4s already doing that? Could I add a 4x4 to the corner for additional support (like the far corners where the bar-top is)?


texts: How to add a 400v 3 phase plug and/or extra distribution panel with only two breaker spaces left?

texts:
I have a few 400v appliances with 5 pin plugs (pressure washer etc.) but no 5 pin plugs. I would like to easily add a 5 pin 400v socket to my existing fuse boxes, but I only have two breaker spaces left on my sub-panel.

I have found some good instructions online for adding sub-panels or 400v 3 phase sockets via a 4 pin fuse and then a 3-way circuit breaker (see photos below), but I don't quite understand how to connect this from my existing circuit board, particularly considering there are only two circuit breaker spaces left.

plus

To connect to this space somehow?

Questions:

Option 1: Adding new Fuse in 2-space gap (Preferred option)

Option 1 Question: - Can I fit a 2 pin fuse (or whatever fits in the available space) and then wire it to the 4 pole fuse pictured above? If so, can you suggest how I can wire something in this two space gap without adding extra capacity to an existing fuse?

Option 2: Somehow reworking an existing fuse/collection of circuit breakers to just slip in a 400V socket to the existing generous 35A/50A fuses

Option 2 Question: - Confusingly, there is a three pin campervan socket wired with a fat wire to a ciruit breaker with a '3' symbol written on it. In the pic below youc can see this fat wire at top of pic with black, blue and earth wire going to 3 locations in fuse box. I don't understand this.

I could only get 230v out of the socket when testing with a voltometer. Could this somehow be better wired to become three phase?

Useful info:

The electric meter is rater for 400A

The existing fuses are all 35A or 50A

Most of the existing circuit breakers are capable of both 230V and 400V (I'm in Germany).

Here are some extra pics you may find useful:

Caveats:

I'm no electrician so may have some of the terminology wrong.
Any advice/discussion is for learning purposes and I act on it at my own risk, so please feel free.
More pics/info available on request (max 8 allowed in this 1st post :( )
I appreciate any input : )

Extra photos now I have the 'reputation' to allow me more than 8 photos:

Thick wires can be seen going from meter to main panel:

These Same wires (in a split grey PVC housing) can be seen going from left to right panel at the top here:

Neutral and ground on top rows of left panel (joined) and seen travelling to right panel:

Ground and neutral on right panel (not joined):

The path of the brown and black wires on the right panel is less clear to me:

But the black and brown wires are in some way connected to a number of fuses and circuit breakers, which I think means they are all ultimately connected directly to the electricity meter power source?

&


texts: Would a brick TV stand withstand the weight of a TV?

texts:
The TV is 64 " and probably weighs 60+ lbs.  I would like to create a TV stand in order to place the TV off the floor likely just 2' high.  The width and deph would be the same as the base of the TV.
Would be bricks withstand the weight of the TV?


texts: How do I avoid stripping paint off of my walls with painters tape?

texts:
I put that painters tape on the edges by the ceiling and cut in next to it (overlapping the tape with the paint somewhat).

A couple of hours later, I pull the tape, and small sections of paint come off with it. How do I avoid this?

Is it sufficient to just take a small brush afterward and touch up the area? It always seems to look crappier.


texts: Ways to add proper ventilation to attic with ridge vent on roof?

texts:
We got a new roof about four ago.  The attic is unfinished. It's a split level home, and hot as Hades upstairs.

Unfortunately, the roofers didn't consider attic ventilation.  They installed a ridge vent, but the only intake is a gable vent near the peak of the roof.  Now we realize that hot air stays at the bottom of the attic in that scenario.  So we need to add ventilation at the bottom of the attic.  Our soffits are not vented.  Seems to me the options are to vent the soffits, or to add a shingle-over intake vent along the lower edge of the roof (then seal up the gable vent). Is either of these options preferable for a relatively new roof?  We live in DC.


texts: Install ceiling light with wireless switch

texts: I’m looking to install a ceiling fixture where none exists. I believe power is already routed through the joists where I’d like to install. Can I have a contractor open the ceiling and put in a wireless relay for power that can be controlled via wireless switch on the wall? Or do I need new wiring that is controllable via directly wired switch?


texts: Prevent glue from oozing out of the tube

texts:
When applying glue (be it wood glue, plastic glue, or superglue) from a metal tube, I very often find that the glue keeps oozing out of the nozzle even when I'm no longer squeezing the tube, even if held upright. Sometimes, I can stop it by gently pressing the sides of the tube to make it more circular in cross-section, increasing its inner volume. However, that is not always possible, nor does it always help.

What is causing this behaviour, and how can I stop it, or prevent it starting in the first place?


texts: Light Fixture box with 3 sets of wires (confusing wiring)

texts: I recently took off a light fixture in my home's bathroom and before I could take mental note of the wiring situation, the white wire from the fixture slipped from a wire nut (not a great sign of previous electrical work, I know..). The black wire from the fixture was connected to the single black wire on the right side of the box (presumably the switch's cable) but I do not know where the fixture's white wire was connected. I have a feeling the white wire from the fixture was connected to the two black wires on the left side of the picture, however, I'm hesitant to do that (I added the electrical tape for now). Note that the fixture/switch were working perfectly fine. Any thoughts on where the white wire from the fixture needs to be attached? Thanks in advance


texts: Door jamb and threshold: what goes on top?

texts: Working on a doorway between two rooms where the floor heights differ by 3/4" so there will be a threshold that spans the two heights. Can't quite decide whether I should install the threshold and then the jambs on top of the threshold, or the jambs first and then fit the threshold between the jambs.


texts: Controlling 110v swamp cooler using Nest thermostat

texts:
I currently have an HVAC system that is connected to a Nest thermostat (2nd generation) and I'm planning to use the same Nest thermostat to control a 110 swamp cooler that is currently not connected.

Before dealing with the trouble to connect both systems to the same thermostat (maybe using switches/relays to shut down one system while the other is on) I want to know if it possible to control the swamp cooler using the Nest thermostat. I don't have too much electrical knowledge, but I've been doing some research and I think it is possible if I buy some additional things.

The swamp cooler has a 2-speed motor, therefore I would like the Nest thermostat to control both speeds using Y1 and Y2 terminals. As far as I know 2 stage thermostats will apply power from the R terminal to the Y2 if more cooling power is required at the same time power is applied from R terminal to Y1. I also want the water pump to work everytime the thermostat calls for cooling (for both speeds), but I want the water pump to run alone for some minutes before the motor is started.

I have found that the Honeywell RC840T-120 might allow me to use the 24v Nest thermostat with the 110v swamp cooler and using a SPDT relay I could connect Y1 and Y2 to the 2 terminals of the 2-speed motor. Honeywell RC840T-120 was created to connect line-voltage controlled heaters to 24v thermostats but I think it will also work with the swamp cooler. This device will be the first relay that will decide if the pump and motor are going to receive power. This first relay will be connected to a PTD102 Delay that will delay the power to the SPDT relay, this last realy is the one that will control the power to the motor based on Y2 terminal from Nest thermostat. The thermostat will send power to Y1 only for 1st speed and in case it needs more cooling power it will start  sending power to Y1 and Y2 at the same time causing the SPDT relay to switch power to High through terminal 3 as the following diagram shows:

Please let me know if you think this way to connect the thermostat will allow me to control the swamp cooler and if it will also control both speeds


texts: How to modify and redirect the tankless water heater steam exhaust away from the house?

texts: I am seeking help from this community to come up a creative solution on how to make a minor/elegant modification to direct the steam exhaust to go outside and away from the house. Right now, it will fill up the gated utility room area and go up to the eve of the front porch area (may cover up the house vent at times). It's not possible to direct it to the rooftop per my contractor. This is in San Francisco area. Thank you so much for your suggestion and ideas in advance.


texts:
I'm trying to switch the incandescent light bulbs in my living room to LED ones. I've noticed that originally all the light bulbs were 65W 620 lumen. I've bought four LED light bulbs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UKE5YAW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) that are 100W equivalent. After I install all of them they won't light up so I'm guessing whether I've exceeded the maximum watts.

I've unscrewed the light switch panel and it reads something like "600W max, 500W with one side removed, 400W with two sides removed" so I guess it should be able to fit 400W light bulbs.

So what went wrong here?


texts:
can i add double breaker into an empty slot circle "1"? this will be for 220v hot tub.
i have not tried anything yet, looking at circle "1" i have a feeling that breaker won't fit there.
also i really don't know how much is there needed to describe my problem.


texts: How much weight can mild steel square tubing support?

texts:
I am looking to purchase a length of steel tubing with the following dimensions 1800mm x 25mm x 25mm with a wall thickness of 3mm. How much weight will be able to support at mid point if supported at both ends? I am looking to use it for a long desk.

Thanks in advance


texts:
Wondering why the cold water comes out with full pressure but warm is at 1/4 of the pressure?

What are all the things I can check?


texts: Is there such a thing like low profile/depth electrical box to install a power outlet on a cinder wall that has no framing?

texts:
I have a small section of a wall that has just like 1.5-2" of styrofoam insulation and then it will be  drywall on top of it
This is because it is an old toilet drain that was put there close to the wall when there was no insulation
When they finished the basement the code did not allow the toilet to be too close to the wall so they did not put framing there (exterior wall, under grade)
I am installing a smart toilet there and I need a power plug behind it so I will have to put an outlet electrical box there (this is what I am thinking now). Is there a low profile outlet box that would fit in the 1.5-2"? If not what is the lowest profile I can get or what other solutions are available for such situations? (I do not want to make room for it in the cinder block)


texts: How can I store Latex paint for the long term - a decade or longer?

texts:
So I have a bunch of partially used latex paint in 1 gallon and 5 gallon buckets. How could one store and keep the paint viable for years to come? Could I just vigorously shake the buckets once a year or so?

For now I store the paint in my basement.


texts: Using fire rated drywall/sheetrock in a partially finished basement

texts:
Background:  We have a full basement and I have recently completed about half of it as a hang out spot for my teenage boys and their friends.  The other side I use as a workshop and a place to store "stuff".  The ceilings are about 9 feet high in the unfinished side and 8 feet high on the finished side.  The unfinished side only has exposed floor joists, wiring, etc.  The finished side has a suspended ceiling.  The wall between us is finished on their side with 1/2" drywall.  My side is bare studs.  Also, the basement stairs are between us - finished on their side, unfinished on mine.

My Question:  I want to finish my side of the wall and would prefer to use wood rather than sheetrock.  But since my side has the furnace, do I have to install fire-rated drywall between us?  I won't be able to completely close off one side from the other because the wall is perpendicular to the joists above, so even if I run drywall to the top of my wall, there's still about 10" of clearance between the joists.  It seems that fire-rated drywall would not be necessary since any fire would just burn above the wall and into the other room.


texts: without damaging metal, how to attach metal house numbers to metal sheathing

texts: I am hoping to find a way to attach my metal house numbers to facia clad with metal sheathing without damaging the metal. the


texts: My dishwasher keeps jamming, it's not draining water, has sitting water in the bottom

texts:
Not sure if this is my dishwasher or my clogged drains. A few years back, my dishwasher stopped draining; I called my neighbor, I tried all home remedies, my neighbor took the Bosch dishwasher apart and the hose inside was full of grease, so much that there was no way we could clean it. I ordered another one and replaced it. Still the water wasn't draining.
He climbed my roof, looked thru the drain pipe and said he sees clogged drain, hair and stuff, cleared that out and everything was good for good 2 years I would say.

Now, I have the same issue again. My neighbor has moved.
I'm not sure why this is happening. Should I call a plumber or a dishwasher person?

I'm afraid of termites due to standing water. This is Long Island, New York. Termites are a big issue. What should I do?


texts: Low pressure in shower after water main restrictor installed; what are my options?

texts:
Note: Lots of similar questions, but they mostly deal with either a sudden, unexplained drop in water pressure, or with water pressure that has always been low.
In my case, the situation is as follows:

MIL's house had awesome showers with decent pressure.
But, as it turns out, the main water pressure was too high and damaged some valves on the heater. A plumber came, fixed stuff, and installed pressure limiting device right at the main.
There's no gauge at the water main so I don't know what it's set to, like 40 or 50 PSI?
Now with that pressure limited, the showers in the house are pretty disappointing. I measured the flow rate on one of them and got something like 1.5 GPM, whereas the heads themselves should be rated for 2.5 GPM.

Now what can I do to enhance the shower experience again? Could it be that somewhere in the pipe that goes to the shower there's a pressure limiting device as well, which made sense back in the days of high main pressure but is overkill now that main pressure is limited?
Or is it that the heads that were meant for 2.5 GPM just are very disappointing when pressure is low and I should go and get a head that's meant for lower pressure like 1.5 GPM?


texts:
The layout in our only bathroom is really cramped.  We are about to redo it and if we move the tub to a different wall it would open up a lot of space. The downside is that wall has the only window.  Removing the window isn't really an option. We like the light and it would degrade the curb appeal.

Googling hasn't turned up much.  What options exist to keep the window in the shower? We would prefer it be close to standard size and openable.


texts: How to connect a semi rigid aluminum duct to a rigid aluminum duct

texts:
In a 4 story multi-owner house in Rotterdam, the Netherlands there is an 80mm semi-rigid aluminum duct like the one shown in the image below which contains the water heater exhaust of my neighbors who live below. Since I have made structural changes to the roof this duct needs to be extended. Ideally, it can connect with a rigid pipe that can then connect with the roof exhaust.

I cannot find a piece to provide a mechanical connection from this semi-rigid pipe to a rigid pipe. Do you have any suggestions?
Is there any reason why the following hack wouldn’t work?
The 80m semi-rigid pipe is placed inside a minimum of 50mm distance inside a 90mm rigid aluminum pipe. Griffon HBS-200 (a universal, durable, water and airtight and protective sealant is used to seal the connection. Vaster Aluminium Tape then wraps the entire connection. This detail is sketched in the image below.

Questions

What connection should I use (if you can share products from other countries I can look for their equivalent in the Netherlands)?
Is my hack a stupid idea and why?


texts: PIR Wall Switch Occupancy Sensor not working WSP-250

texts: Good evening. My wall switch went from not working at all to now staying on. I removed it from the wall and it is now working but won’t shut off. I can hear something rattling on the inside as we were having to use a pencil to turn it off and on. Should I just replace the switch as I think the sensor is bad. Thank you as any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: When running crawl space conduit, must the conduit be run through the joist via drilled holes, or can they be attached underneath?

texts: I'm wiring my home for 110V and cat6e(48-0V).  There is currently no wiring, just an air tight shell with interior studs exposed.  There is a crawl space where I would like to run all of the conduit for both my standard electrical power and ethernet POE cat6.  Is there any reason I need to drill holes in the floor joists and fish the conduit through those holes, or can I simply secure the conduit to bottom of the joists using brackets of some sort?


texts: Can a water softener be installed after a thermal expansion tank?

texts:
Our thermal expansion tank is installed after the meter and feeds into the house and hot water heater. It seems like it should have been installed immediately prior to the water heater...
Can I install a water softener after the thermal expansion tank or should I try to install it between the meter and thermal expansion tank?


texts: What could be causing one circuit out, no breakers thrown, and other lights to flicker?

texts:
We've recently had what looks like 1 circuit in the kitchen go out, affecting 2 outlets. I checked the circuit breaker panel and none are thrown. A couple other nearby lights have flickered several times in nearby rooms. Same with the garage door when I opened it. The weather has recently gotten warmer and more humid so the AC is running more, but I don't see a correlation between AC running and lights flickering. We just got back a couple days ago from being gone a week. While we were gone a couple rounds of strong thunderstorms went through. Must have knocked out the power because some of the clocks were reset, including the microwave, which is near the outlets that are out. But the stove's clock was not reset.

Any idea what's causing this?

I did a search here for flickering lights and have read a couple other questions and answers. Unfortunately I don't have any equipment to test things.


texts: Pipes vibrating - even when valve closed

texts:
I came home to a loud buzzing noise today. I realised it was the toilet. I gave it a quick look over, and nothing seemed wrong.

As I investigated further, I realised the toilet has its own separate mains line feeding it (and only it). All other taps etc. in the flat are supplied from a separate inlet.

I could feel the buzzing on the mains line feeding the toilet, so I found the stopcock and closed it, and emptied the toilet tank. The buzzing actually got worse when I did this (and became more like knocking).

Is the problem likely with the plumbing outside my property (I live in a block of flats, 1930's), or is there anything else I can do to find/fix the problem myself?


texts: Why does my Kenmore washing machine not move out of the wash cycle?

texts:
While doing laundry this weekend, it seemed like the washer was taking a very long time to get through 1 regular load. I finally went to check on it and found that it never moved from the very first wash cycle. I am able to move the cycle knob manually to go through the rest of the cycles, but it won't move on its own.

I have a Kenmore 500 series washer.


texts: Options for restoring or otherwise utilizing old chimney

texts:
My home (in East Texas, built in 1885, two stories, pier and beam) has two chimneys, one of which I would like to reopen. Apart from information gleaned online, I have no experience with chimneys or fireplaces, be they wood or gas; I just know I like the heat and the smell of burning wood.

The chimney is in the center of the house, and is about 40 feet tall, ground to top. It is currently capped at the top, and the fireplace is bricked in (at the damper). I have no idea what the condition of the inside of the flue is like. There are no cracks in the outer bricks, though the mortar is slightly crumbly, at least the portions in the crawlspace and in the attic. The fireplace itself is in great condition; the inner and outer hearths have no cracks or sag, and the fire box looks strong. There is not a clean-out, nor an ash pit.

Assuming the chimney can be used at all, how much effort/material/cost would it take to reopen the chimney and safely restore it for use as a wood-burning fireplace? A weekend DIY job, or a hire-an-expert-and-pay-for-his-retirement job?

If the chimney or fireplace is impossible to restore and/or safely use, would it still be possible to install a natural gas burning inset, and use the chimney as an exhaust vent (including adding a standard metal vent inside)?


texts:
We moved into an all electric (no gas or oil) house with a 40 gallon water tank and a Jacuzzi.. Looks like the Jacuzzi had never really been used.  When trying to fill it we can just barely get enough hot water for a decent bath.

Is there a an easy, inexpensive way to supplement hot water for the Jacuzzi without having to install a larger water tank?


texts: How to drill the perfect hole in a kitchen cabinet drawer for a handle?

texts:
I am having new Mid-Continent kitchen cabinets installed.  The vendor has attempted to drill holes in the cabinets drawer faces for the "Pull Handles" that we selected.  I would think that this would be easy.  When he drills a 1/8" hole in the front of the drawer to mount the handle, the drill bit tears the surrounding wood surface finish around the 1/8" drilled hole.   And the "Foot print" of the Pull Handle does not cover up the torn finish.

So how do I drill a 1/8" hole without marring or tearing the wood surface around the hole?


texts: I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?

texts: I had to patch a cat door that was cut into the drywall, and put in a cutout that left small gaps around the perimeter. When I applied the first coat of joint compound, it pulled into the gap in certain places, so I have to apply a second coat. Do I or should I wet the first coat before applying the second?


texts: How should I configure the chains for a large porch swing?

texts: I'm making a twin-sized porch swing. Should I use 4 chains such that two of them connect together - thus resulting in only two from the ceiling, or use 4 chains and all 4 connect to the ceiling separately?


texts: How to replace difficult outside hose spigot handle?

texts:
The outside of the house is vinyl siding. I have a hose spigot where it attaches to the pipe, that seam is below the vinyl siding. What's more, I can't get the screw off to remove the handle. It's an old brass spigot with a metal handle that looks like a wheel. I've tried using liquid wrench on it and tapping it, which didn't work. Using a torch to loosen it will not work as it's 2mm from the vinyl siding.

Anyone have any other ideas to replace the handle? The spigot works fine but the handle is broken. I have a new metal handle I just want to replace the hold handle.

Should I drill out the screw and replace it? What are the screw specs for the replacement screw?

Thank you.

EDIT: The screw for the spigot handle requires a flathead screwdriver. It must be ancient. House was built in the 1950s but I think the spigot is newer than that.

I also have an air compressor but no air tools for it. If that helps.

EDIT: Adding images of the outside spigot in question.


texts: How can I work around a broken faucet handle?

texts:
I have these two faucets in the kitchen that I'll use for a washing machine and a dishwasher. Alas, the handles seem to be broken:

I guess I should change the handle at some point, but right now I'd be happy to leave it open using a wrench.

I'm unfamiliar with the nomenclature of these things, but going by this legend it seems like I should be able to rotate the stem -- that's the outer brass thingie right? -- with a wrench to open it.

I've rotated it a bit but no water came out. I'm afraid I'll be disassembling the whole thing if I rotate it too much, so any advice would be rather welcome!


texts: How do I fix this 30 ft (9 m) dryer vent abomination?

texts:
The previous owner left a bit of a headache with the dryer venting setup.
Context:

This is a gas dryer

The living room is behind the right hand side wall, so that's a no-go as far as drilling

The kitchen is behind the wall behind the door

The current setup is a potential fire hazard with lint getting built up. Too many changing angles, over 30 ft (9 m) of duct. No good.

Things I've ruled out:

I don't want to have an indoor venting box
I'd prefer to not drill any more holes, but if I have to I will
If I have to hire someone, my budget is around US$300-500. If there's a DIY solution that a very novice handyman like myself can do, that would be great!

What are my options here?


texts: Are CFL bulbs safe for enclosed fixtures?

texts:
I just got 3 dozen CFL bulbs for free, and was planning on replacing all the non-downward exposed fixture lights in my home with these bulbs.  In the past I haven't even considered switching to CFL because of the light temperature, but after seeing the 2700K bulbs and barely being able to tell a difference I was sold, at least for free.

I accepted the bulbs based on word-of-mouth that they are fine in enclosed fixtures, with the caveat of a "possibly reduced lifespan".  But, after scouring the internet I have found everything from "bulbs under 20W are fine" to "these bulbs are NOT to be used in enclosed fixtures".

Specifically, I have Earthbulb 13W Micro T2 bulbs.  The manufacturer's website says nothing about them.  Most of the fixtures I would be putting the bulbs in are standard dome lights like this.

I can deal with a shorter lifespan, at least, I'm willing to give it a try.  But I am ultra-paranoid about risk of fire.  So, does anyone have any better advice than I've been able to find to answer the question are CFL bulbs safe (from risk of fire) in enclosed fixtures?


texts: Repairing broken epoxy interface on aluminum

texts: My fridge fell over and the hinge between the freezer door and refrigerator door broke. This aluminum part is crucial, so I took the gamble of repairing it with epoxy (see image). The part held for a month but the epoxy in the interface broke today. This part is subjected to shear and pulling forces so maybe epoxy is not worth a second try. How do I repair this part properly now that it is covered with epoxy.


texts: Sticky Rocker Light Switch -- Not stuck, just sticky -- fix or replace?

texts:
My bathroom's light switch gets stuck in the on position very easily. I.e. I turn the light on and then I have to hit the switch 2-4 times to get it to turn off. It's a rocker switch.

It does turn off, but you really have to hit it hard. I've been doing some research on the internet, but I haven't really found questions about "sticky" light switches versus a light switch that is completely stuck in the on or off position. Do I absolutely have to replace it or is there a solution I can reasonably try myself? I rent my apartment so I would love it if I could just fix it myself instead of going through my landlord

Thanks!!


texts: Old-style ceiling vent in DC rowhouse, top-floor bathroom

texts:
I'm looking to recreate the original mechanism for opening and closing the ceiling "window-frame" vent in the topfloor bathroom of my 1938 Wash DC rowhouse.

Problem is, I have no friggin' idea what that mechanism was...any ideas?

From what info I have gathered, originally there was a chain/rope that connected to corners on either side. Was it more complicated than that or is literally just a chain or rope with enough slack to be reachable?

I'm also curious about how to go about cleaning this up while not further damaging an already apparently fragile "window" frame.

Also I can't figure out how to remove it from it's position without permanently damaging whatever the things are that the "window" rotates on (one is visible in the pic--I tried to pull it out but was unsuccessful even with reasonable force, and there isn't an exposed one on the other side). So I'm doing all the cleaning and painting with it in place.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

More pics:


texts: How can I secure the wheel of my office chair to its shaft?

texts:
I have a gaming office chair with a wheel that won't stay on:

I have tried to add some paper around the axis to make it thicker, I have tried with rubber band, I have tried to glue the wheel back on...
The wheel always ends up falling after a few moves of the chair.
Do you have an idea that would allow me to fix this permanently? Ideally I'd like to keep the wheel mobile, but that's not a hard requirement.


texts: Wiring IKEA light fixture into old fixture

texts:
I am installing a simple IKEA ceiling light fixture.
The new light fixture has a neutral wire, a live wire, and a ground wire.

My current old light fixture has 4 wires: white, red, dark blue or black, and copper wire.
And here is how it is connected: The white from ceiling to the white in an old fixture. The black from old fixture to both the red and black/blue ( 3 cables in a cap). The ground from the ceiling is just hanging.

How should I connect the wires? Please see the attached picture of the current situation. I also included instructions of the new fixture.


texts: Help needed on thermostat wiring with Ecobee and Fast-Stat 5000

texts:
I'm trying to replace existing Honeywell controller for my furnace with Ecobee 3. The Honeywell controller does not use a C wire, however there are a black wire and blue wire in the wall behind the controller. From furnace board it seems to me the black wire is C wire so I use it in Ecobee wiring. Unfortunately Ecobee starts with wiring error message.
Attached are wiring on Ecobee, furnace board and furnace diagram. I also noticed there is "Fast-Stat Common Maker Thermostat Wire Extender" installed in the furnace.
Update:
From what I can see, the brown wire connects thermostat and furnace. It is split into white and red, and then fed into Fast-Stat 5000 transformer.

↑ Furnace wiring

↑ Furnace wiring with Fast-Stat 5000

↑ Brown wire that goes to the thermostat

↑ Furnace diagram

↑ Ecobee wiring

↑ Honeywell wiring (previous working thermostat)

↑ FAST-STAT 5000 Diagram

↑ Fast-Stat 5000 sender behind the wall


texts: How can I stop my doors from leaking at each corner?

texts:
We have a new addition with one metal door with no glass, and French doors with glass.

I have had 3 different people try and fix them but they still leak. It used to leak the length of the floor from the doors. Now it leaks at each corner of the door and the French doors leak at their corners and the middle on our floor. The only thing we haven't done is cut everything out and start over. Before we do that what could be the problem. I have caulked twice since and now it leaks less but leaks all the same. Everything was new.