texts:
I am having a grain bin erected and need to power it.

I have a 100 amp service at the pole.  The grain bin in 250' away from the pole.

I will have a second grain in built next year right next to it. So, I'd like to size the wire to run it once or run a pair of feeder wires so I don't have to come back next year.

Each grain bin consists of the following:
1) Fan with a 10HP, 230v single phase
2) Unload auger with two identical motors - 7.5hp single phase 230v

Grand total, I'll be powering two 10hp and four 7.5hp.

What wire do I need to run from the pole to the bin(s)?


texts: What is the best method to cut 'Mother of Pearl' super thin seashell tile?

texts:
My wife bought this super thin seashell alike Tile called "Mother of Pearl" but I don't know the proper way to cut it. The tile seems to be very fragile and looks like it breaks into pieces easily.  I did some Google search and here are what I have found:

(1) Masking tape on a tile and cut with wet saw

(2) Nail clipper but won't be straight

(3) Dremel cutting wheel but takes forever

(4) Angle grinder with dry diamond blade with piece of wood as guide

(5) Masking tape on the hard surface and use wheel type mosaic tile cutter

Wondering how professional will do this? Anyone has good experience in cutting this? Thanks in advance for help.


texts:
2 year old pine deck was originally weathered for 6 weeks then 2x coats of Calbots Silver Beech Water Based Deck and Exterior Stain applied.
We did it ourselves and overall did a pretty bad job, my husband didn’t read the instructions to follow the advice of not overlapping and instead to run the stain the length of the boards. We also did it on a hot day so we have a bit of overlapping going on as well as what you can see in the photos, blotchy patches of colour and what looks like mould? We’ve tried a mould remover/deck cleaner to no avail.
How to fix?! Another darker coat?
Another product to strip it back?


texts: Are there any concerns installing kitchen cabinets set away from the wall?

texts:
I am a planning on installing standard cabinets in a galley type kitchen.

I want to the cabinets to be about 2-3 inches away from the wall. What are the concerns with doing this, and is there anything I should take special consideration of when doing it?

My reasons for doing this:

I only have about 6 ft long of countertop space, so if I push the base cabinets away from the wall I can gain a couple inches.
The old cabinets were installed before a new ceiling was put in; I had to add drywall to finish the ceiling and did an ok job at hiding the joint. The old ceiling has a texture but the new ceiling doesn't, so if I push the cabinets off the wall their tops will end at the older ceiling, hiding the joint and untextured ceiling.

I am going to install the cabinets between these two walls.  Therefore, the sides of the cabinets will never or hardly be seen.

If you look at the ceiling in the picture,  there is a purple drywall board about 13 inches from the wall.

I want the wall cabinets to sit flush against the old ceiling.

So I would like both the base and wall cabinets to be 2-3 inches from the back wall.


texts: To which terminals do you connect a phone jack?

texts:
I just had my house phone connected and it's wired through conduit in the wall, so everything looks as professional as possible. Unfortunately the phone company here in Mexico does not connect phone jacks that are not their property. So I’m basically stuck doing it myself.

They have a 2 wire (blue and white) cable to their phone jack and my jack has 4 places I can connect to but cant figure out which two to use (TX,L2,TS,L1)


texts:
My dishwasher fills with fresh water, and everything seems to work as expected except there always is leftover water. I can tell fresh water is being pumped in because the color and odor improves with each wash.

There is a small amount of food debris that I mostly removed from the screen basket. While I read in the manual that it is normal for "[a small amount of] water standing in the bottom of the tub", this is more than is normal from memory and from the fact that the water is dirty after a completed wash.

As the manual suggests, I cleaned the air gap, but like I said that seems unnecessary because the water never goes beyond the air gap. I have gotten it to drain three times after several more attempts to clean it out. We have never heard a motor hum while standing near it on completion of the cycle.

Do I need to clean the pump like this other thread suggests? Do I rather need to purchase a replacement part? How can I diagnose the problem?

Model: GLD5654V00CS manual


texts: Is there a way to make a worn laminate floor shine again?  There are a couple of areas in my house where lots of traffic seem to have dulled the shine on our laminate (pergo) floor, as well as where I foolishly have used a rolling chair at my desk with no mat.   Is there anyway to get something close to the original shine back?


texts: I have an espresso maker that has started popping the kitchen counter GFCI outlet intermittently. It seems to me that it could either be an issue with the GFCI (I seem to remember they go bad occasionally) or with the espresso maker. I am in a rental unit and I am pretty sure if I call maintenance they are going to say it is my appliance rather than replace the GFCI. I am happy to send the espresso maker to the manufacturer for repair but I would like to be sure first. Is there a way for me to test the appliance so I can be insistent with maintenance or the manufacturer? I have a multimeter.


texts: How do I clean this grey stain from my bathtub?

texts:
Below is an image of my bathtub, which has this grey stain. I just moved in and it was already there so I don't know what caused it.

Is this possible to clean?
If it is possible, what do I use? (I would prefer a link to a product on Amazon if possible)
What caused it?
Is this preventable?


texts: Adjusting tankless water heater temperature without factory controls?

texts:
I have an older Noritz N-069M tankless water heater without a "remote control" or display. I think I am not using enough hot water to consistently keep the heater running while showering (water goes completely cold for a minute--never happens to my wife, who takes hotter showers). According to the installation manual online, the only way to adjust the set temperature is by temporarily plugging in a remote control.

Are there any other options? The only visible adjustments are for the gas manifold pressure. A similar model apparently has removable jumper connectors, but this one does not.


texts: In the attached picture is 9/16" referring to the compression fitting end's internal diameter? What 90 pushin should I buy to work with this hose?

texts:
I need to buy a 90 push in that has male NPT that matches this below hose end.
I am not sure what to buy and if the 23-9/16" means 23" long hose and 9/16"ID for the compression fitting
What 90 push in fitting that works with this should I buy?

Update: This is a follow up or a sequel of this thread Would a 1/2x3/8 Dishwasher Tube to Pipe Elbow, 90 take a 3/8 flex connect for a shower pannel? where I was told not to use the fitting I was asking about because it is for a dishwashere and it will reduce the volume. So now I am trying to find the right 90 that would be push in on one end and it will take the above compression hose


texts: I want to mount 4 feet double fluorescent light fixture in my room celling. The celling is made of drywall, my question : is it safe to use drywall anchor in celling which is rated for 75 lbs to mount fixture or whatelse should i use to reinforce to support fixture on drywall celling? Drywall thickness is 3/4 inches.


texts: Correct way to rewire for a ceiling fan + light from a switched outlet

texts:
I want to know if this is the correct way to do this.

There is a switch that controls a single receptacle in a double receptacle outlet across the room. Power comes into the switch box via 3-wire (black/white/ground). There is a 4-wire (black/white/red/ground) going to the switch via the attic. The whites and grounds are nutted together respectively. The blacks are also nutted together and pigtailed to the black screw on the switch. The red is connected to the other side of the switch. Over at the outlet, the red wire is connected to the top (switched) receptacle, and the black to the bottom (and the white is connected to both of course and it is grounded).

I want to install a ceiling fan with a light fixture on separate switches. The switch is on an interior wall but the outlet is on an exterior wall. The 4-wire passes right overhead (in the attic) of where I the ceiling fan will mount. What I want to do is cut the 4-wire near where the fan will go, route the 4-wire into the fan box, and replace the single switch with two switches that switch the black AND red wires that now go to the fan and light. Then, run a new 3-wire up from the switch box, with has constant power, to a new junction box and jumper the new 3-wire to the old 4-wire, leaving the red unconnected. Then, I will replace the outlet such that both receptacles are powered from the black only and leave the red disconnected.

Being an electrical engineer, I know that this will work from a power-distribution standpoint, but are there code violations or better ways to do this?


texts: I'm replacing an old 3-wire motion sensor with a new sensor that has 4 wires. How do I install this?

texts: I'm replacing an old 3-wire motion sensor (cracked housing) with a new Leviton PS100-70W motion sensor. This new sensor has 4 wires (1 black, 1 white, 2 blue). How do I install this properly? I understand the black and white wires, but don't know what to do with the blue wires.


texts: Can I direct wire a light with a fused plug?

texts: I would like to add lighting to a built-in bookshelf. Is it possible to cut the plug off of the wires (shown here)  and join them in a junction box with a line coming from the switch? I would like to use four of these lights with LED bulbs, so the load will be tiny. It seems like it "should" work, but that's what everyone says just before they burn their house down. I don't know if it makes a difference, but the plugs have fuses. What do you think?


texts: My outlets have ground wires twisted together and bonded to the metal box, but not the outlet. Is this ok?

texts:
In my home, I've been replacing the outlets. The old ones are so loose that things don't stay plugged in! While doing this, I noticed that the ground wire(s) in every outlet are twisted together and screwed to the metal gang box. The grounds wire(s) are NOT connected to the outlet's grounding screw.

A few questions about this situation:

Was this ok in the past?
Is it safe? Will the way it's wired provide an adequate ground?
Should I take the time to fix it by adding a pigtail to connect the ground to the ground screw on the new outlets?


texts: Does this truss have two or three bearing points?

texts:
Part of my roof is made from studio trusses as shown in the picture. I'm trying to determine if any of the load from these trusses is borne by the highlighted wall.

The wall is built with 2x6s, but this may be because it contains a plumbing vent.

The architect has said that any bearing walls would be indicated in the plans, and this wall is not shown as load-bearing. Indeed, in our variant of the plan, this wall doesn't go to the ceiling, being only three feet high. (Edit: to be clear, the plan for our variant of the house shows the wall as three feet tall, but it was built full-height, and with 2x6s rather than the 2x4s shown here.)

Still, it's worrying that these trusses all touch a heavy wall that goes all the way down to the slab. Can anyone tell for sure if this truss has two or three bearing points?


texts: Position of dryer vent relative to gas meter and furnace intake

texts:
As part of renovations to our house (built in the early 70s) we are reconfiguring the laundry room and moving appliances to the opposite wall. The laundry appliances will now be to the left of the side entrance door instead of to the right side.

We have a few questions about where to create the new opening for the dryer vent.  On the outside of wall where the dryer will be placed, the gas meter and furnace intake are also located. See attached pictures (showing current location of dryer vent; location of gas meter and furnace intake; likely location shown as red rectangle of where the vent could run inside the inner wall).

Is there any concern with having the dryer vent located close to the gas meter and furnace intake? Are there minimum clearances required that we should be aware of Any other concerns with the furnace intake and vent being located close to each other? What would be the best location on this wall for the vent, if any.
Another possibility could be to run the vent over the door and down to the existing vent opening on right side of the door. Can that work and is it a viable option? We are ok with having a small bulkhead in the laundry room above the door.
For #2 above if we reuse existing vent, is the vent located too close to the floor? Would this pass current code? We are located in Toronto, Canada.

Would highly appreciate any thoughts from forum members. Thanks!

!


texts: Is duct tape okay to use for insulating very small, low current wires?

texts:
I'm currently in isolation due to covid, so I can't go out to get electrical tape.

My keyboard's sustain pedal wires (~1 mm diameter) got cut, so I was planning on splicing them (no solder) and using duct tape for structural and electrical security after. Is this okay?


texts: Breaker does not make solid connection even after replacing it

texts:
My main box is a 45 year old GE
the bottom 2 THQL1120 20amp breakers both are intermittent.
The breakers have lots of play and don't make solid connections.
Everyone says it's the breakers at fault not the panel.
I changed the breakers with brand new ones and no improvement at all.
So now that i established the fact that it's the panel and NOT the breakers is there anything that can be done with the panel or is total replacement necessary.
Thank you


texts: What can I do about 100-year-old stairs that are pulling away from wall

texts: 100-year-old stairs pulling away from wall.  And there is a little give.


texts: What is this next to the kitchen bar sink?


texts: Where should I connect my C wire on Goodman GMP075-3 Rev.B

texts:
I am trying to install an ecobee4 to replace a digital battery powered thermostat.  I removed the existing thermostat and found that there was a spare blue wire that was wrapped around the others that runs to the furnace.  I tried connecting it in three different places and had no luck getting power to the smart thermostat.

In the picture below, you can see where I tried connecting the spare blue wire to both terminals 1 and 2, after reading another stackexchange answer for a similar furnace where people were saying that any 3 blue wires coming from the transformer could be used.  Unfortunately, neither worked to power the ecobee4.

It's hard to see, but in this other picture there is a white wire (from what I believe is the AC unit) going to the bigger blue wire, and I also tried twisting the little blue "C" wire in with the white and blue but this didn't work either.

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction for why this isn't working.  The previous thermostat had a jumper wire installed from the Rc to Rh terminals, and a red wire going into the Rh terminal (two wires in one thermostat terminal?).

Any ideas?


texts: Why is my 3-prong dryer outlet showing 240V between hot and neutral/ground 'L' prong?

texts:
I'm trying to tell what might be wired wrong with our dryer outlet. Using a Fluke 75 set to AC, I read 238V between the hot leads, 118V from one lead to ground, and 238V between the other lead to ground. Is this a simple breaker box problem or might I have bigger issues? FYI, the house was built in 1977 but I've been told the wiring is copper not aluminum.

I am comfortable doing the fix if I have good debugging tips...

Corrections now that I'm home: It's 120v between h1-h2, 120v between h2-neutral, and 240 between h1-neutral. Major user error in data collection but I feel better knowing it's just wired wrong. Please delete or edit at your whim. Also please ding the upvotes because it's a flawed question with bad data.


texts: Skim Coating: Steps? Weight of joint compound?

texts:
I need to skim coat a couple walls with a knockdown texture (example).

1) What are the steps I need to take? I've seen that I need to clean the walls with TSP? Should this be done along with sanding?

2) What weight of joint compoud should be used? I've seen Lite recommeneded, I've seen that it doesn't matter, I've seen super-lite. Which is best? It is my assumtion that lite is best so that it dries quicker and won't add as much extra weight to the wall, but I have no idea what I'm doing.


texts: Found: rotted conduit main power supply into house

texts: Was digging out my final gate post hole and realized that the conduit carrying the main power supply into the house was corroded through. The cable sheathing does not appear to be compromised. I'm wondering what I am in for regarding repairs and cost... sheesh.


texts: Yet another question about replacing a 15 amp breaker with a 20 - 12ga wire

texts:
long time listener, first time caller.

I've got a 65 year old home that was wired in a way that makes no sense. 10 recepts on one circuit, 2 recepts on another, weird stuff.

There is no 14 gauge wire in the entire house, all 12/2, yet all 120 is on 15 amp breakers. For the first 64 years was fine, but I recently put a little home office in the basement, which meant an extra desktop pc, tv, and mini fridge. Now when they are running and the dehumidifier plugged in at other end of the basement kicks on, it throws. Also, I did add 2 recepts in my little office area, as the original ones were over 25ft apart (which doesn't sound legal even in the 60s).

I believe since all wire is 12 gauge I can replace the 15 with a 20 with no problems, is that correct? I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

Also, before it's said - I know I should just add a new one, but the panel box is completely full. I already have everything tied up nicely and don't really don't want to get into replacing the box or adding one or even figuring out the wiring nightmare running into it just for this very small issue. If this doesn't solve the problem I'll suck it up and invest some time and money, but this house is temporary so I'm trying to half ass what I can.


texts: Is it safe to cut out my center stile in base cabinets?

texts:
I have annoying center stiles in all of my cabinets which make door openings about 10 inches wide. The cabinet itself is approximately 25.5 inches wide and holds up a granite countertop. I would like to cut out the center stile to install pull out shelves but I can't tell if it actually provides structural support for the cabinet (pictures attached).

Of note: These cabinets are circa 1995 and the parts that I can see are solid wood. The shelves are attached and do not adjust. Is it safe to cut out the center stile as shown here?


texts: How to remove old pancake junction box (metal brace, lathe and plaster cieling)

texts:
I'm trying to upgrade my ceiling electrical boxes for ceiling fans. The house is from 1935 and lord knows when the electrical work is from, but it's old.

Got up in the attic to get the old box out and this is what I found:

So it's a quarter inch thick metal (iron?) bar running between the joists and attaching via a clamped metal threaded rod that comes through the center of the existing junction box.

From what I've read, my best guess is that the metal rod is likely nailed into the joists from below? So do I need to cut under the joists? Is that safe to do? Can I do it with hand tools or do I need to go out and buy a sawzall or something?

As for the box itself, once I get the bar out, do I just start chipping the plaster until it comes loose?

Thanks from a plaster newbie.


texts: What is a good material to block all light from a window with?

texts:
Blackout curtains have always disappointed me because they let in far too much light. Both through the fabric itself, and around the edges.

I would like to create a window covering for my bedroom that doesn't allow any light through. Such that I can't differentiate the window from the rest of the wall when it's covered and the room is dark.

My best idea currently is to use plywood and flush mount them with a silicone or rubber lining around the edges to further seal it. They'd open/close like this:

But I'm worried about the weight of the plywood making it unwieldy to open, and dangerous should it fall. I'm also unsure of the thickness I'd need the plywood to be to both be stable and properly block the light.

Does anyone have ideas for a better material?

An answer to a similar question suggested rigid foam, but I'm pretty sure that foam wouldn't be stable enough for years of use.


texts: How can I determine the color / temperature of my current fluorescent bulbs?

texts:
I intend to replace an old and large population of T12 flourescent lights with T8 LEDs: direct wiring.  The ballasts are $15 a piece (2 required per fixture) and it would seem that a 4 X $10 direct wire LED bulb is a better choice because of the labor to replace future ballasts is high.

That being said, I would like to understand what color is in the current population and would like the LED to match the population so that the phasing in of the LEDs is seamless.

Is there a clever (simple) method to assess the color?

I bought a contractor pack of T12 fluorescents (4100K): is this the 4100K the common standard for fluorescent lighting


texts: How should I go about fire proofing my garage?

texts:
I am working on an old house that has a garage that needs some updating.  The shared wall with the garage has the old house siding (when presumably there was no attached garage).  There is a partial ceiling (50%) that holds attic space.  The part that doesn't have attic space has the rafters exposed.  I also have crawl space access behind the stairs leading from the garage to the kitchen.

After reading several of the questions and answers in this DIY exchange, it appears I need to:
(1) Install 5/8" sheetrock on top of (or in place of) the old siding that is installed in the shared wall.
(2) I need to find a fireproof solution to the crawlspace access (or close the access entirely with 5/8" sheetrock)
(3) I need to figure out a way to make the ceiling/roof fireproof.

For (3) I was thinking of extending the attic floor to cover 3/4th of the garage.  I would build a wall on the edge that I am not extending.  I would then install 5/8" sheetrock to the "new" garage ceiling (attic floor) and to the new attic wall.  Now, what do I do with:
(a) access door to attic?  Does it have to be fireproof?  Can I build same access door that I see built with pull-down stairs?  This access door doesn't seem tightly sealed like some of the answers I have seen suggest it needs to be.
(b) what do I do with the exposed rafters in the area i did not extend attic?  Do I need to install 5/8" sheetrock like a vaulted ceiling would have?

Depending on the answer to (a), can I use the same technology to fireproof the access to my crawlspace?

Lastly, on the 3 sides of the garage that do not share a wall with the house, can I just install 1/2" drywall?  And, any additional considerations regarding insulation of any of the 4 walls?


texts: Smell from laundry drain, possibly no vent?

texts: Just purchased a home that was renovated.  Appears to have not been by a professional, nothing major but small things.  Not sure what to do on this one.  There is a smell coming from the in wall drain.  Is this because it was not vented properly or needs a p trap?


texts: How do I connect a garbage disposal into a single hot outlet?

texts:
We just moved into our new house. When putting in the new dishwasher I found that the old dishwasher was hardwired into the BLACK WHITE BARE black shielded wire going directly to the breaker box. The garbage disposal located under the sink was hard wired to a switch. Neither wire was hot.

I called an electrician who was able to figure out and connect the dishwasher to the breakerbox that provided an outlet. But how do I now go about connecting and getting power to that disposal with only the single hot outlet to connect both?


texts: Can I caulk the corner between stone countertop and stone backsplash?

texts:
Since I purchased this home a few months ago, we've noticed water from the sink can sit in this corner and possibly grow fungus or just leave mineral residue when it dries. We have tried to keep it brushed out as we figure out what to do with it.
Note that the edge against the painted wall (green arrow in photo) does appear to have silicone caulk while the edge I'm asking about (red arrow) has nothing.
I want to apply clear silicone caulk but

I've never had stone countertops before and I'm not sure what kind of stone this is either and
I've had countertops where is corner is missing caulk near the sink, but this corner has zero caulk all the way across two walls

Is it OK to silicone this edge between the counter stone and backsplash stone?


texts: Is it okay to mix paint thinner with an elastomeric coating for waterproofing?

texts:
Is it Ok to mix paint thinner with an elastomeric coating (HB-70) which is being applied for waterproofing?

I have people who have been waterproofing a dome (the right hand dome in the picture below) by applying this coating. However, the coating is apparently very thick, and almost impossible to apply with a brush, so they needed to dilute it. They said that paint thinner was the correct thing to use. I have no idea, so I thought I would ask here. Does such a procedure sound Ok?


texts: New water heater and expansion tank - low pressure

texts:
Replaced a 20+ year old natural gas 75 gallon water heater recently with an equivalent model.  The plumber said an expansion tank was required per code.  Two things I’m noticing now with the new set up:

1) Low hot water pressure:  I used to turn hot and cold on full to fill a bathtub.  Now, if I turn them both on full only cold water comes out.  I have to turn the cold to half and hot to full to get a decent flow.

2) Two people took baths at the same time (one a whirlpool) and we ran out of hot water for the first time ever.

Is this because newer equipment (same specs on paper) isn’t as good as old equipment?  Does the expansion tank explain any of this?


texts: What submersible adhesive is watertight and durable?

texts:
I am creating an overflow pipe for a rain barrel. Will be creating my own 3D-printed "flange" connector. Half of it will be submerged. Its "flaps" need to be glued to the interior wall of the rain barrel. What kind of adhesive would I use for this? It needs to be impermeable to water (water-resistant) and not degrade over time in the water. As an adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to withstand some accidental bumps of the overflow hose which will be connected to the connector.
Thanks!


texts: It there a easy way to handle floor cupping?

texts:
Bit of a back story.

First we rent, but our land lord is awesome. As such, when things around the house need minor repairs, we tend to either just do them, or have them done. Major repairs he does, and we always work out the cost/rent issue as needed. As such, we have a great relationship, as we are allowed to do more to the house then if we were just a standard renter, and he has less upkeep.

For example, replacing ceiling fans, fixing toilets, repairing the dishwasher, we have just done, but removing trees, re insulating the attic, repairing the A/C he has always done.

The house has been expanded a number of times though the years but the original areas have real hard wood floors. This year was especially wet during the rainy season and the floors are now cupping in a few spots. I understand that some cupping is to be expected during our humid and wet season as the floors expand and pressure causes the issue. But historically, the cupping has gone away once the wet season was over.

We live in Florida, and this year has been especially wet. For example I don't think we have had enough of a dry spell in the past 5 month for the yard to stop being mud. It has rained most every day, and the days it didn't rain have not been dry enough for the water to evaporate well.

So back to the floors. This high moisture has caused cupping in 4-5 spots.  Is there an easy way for us to help along the drying / returning to normal or do we need to give up and call this major work.

What I have been able to find online has been a mixed bag. May sources say, just wait it out, with winter (our dry season) coming things should return to normal, and it's just a part of having real hard wood floors. Other sources say it's time to "rip up the floors" and start over.

Is there a place in between? Should we ride it out? Does delaying repairs to see what happens make the problem worse?

P.S. clarification: Water has not directly come in contact with the wood floors in any unusual way. That is to say that no flooding has occurred, no water set in a spot, or anything like that.


texts: Can I output video single wire RCA signal out of 3 composite ports?

texts:
My projector has a single RG-6 cable with RCA terminals running to it from the console space in the front of the room.  I wanted the cable to be hidden as much as possible and I didn't run an HDMI connection because I couldn't find a way to terminate HDMI terminals on unterminated stock HDMI cable, which is how I did with RG-6 and RCA terminals.  Currently, I output the video signal out of an older model DVD player, which has a single RCA output.  The video quality is good and the projection size on the wall is 98# in diameter.

However, I would like to buy a streaming video box, such as Roku HD, so that I can stream movies and music from YouTube and Netflix onto my home theater system.  I ruled out Apple TV as it only has HDMI out.  Roku HD has HDMI, which I can use for audio, but it also has three composite ports.

My question is: can I either just use one of those three ports to connect to the single wire projector connection or can I somehow convert the signal by using all the three and then some kind of adapter?  If not, what are my options for streaming with this kind of video connection setup?


texts: Wiring Aprilaire 700 Humidifier to York TG9* Furnace

texts:
I've read the related posts, but they don't answer my questions.
Please, help!

We had contractors installed:
* Aprilaire-700 Humidifier with Auto/Manual Humidistat-Control Knob (non-digital)
* York Heating-Furnace Model TG9S080C22MP11 s Serial W1B4453800 - newly installed.

Humidifier has Wires:
Yellow, Blue - to 24VAC;
Green - unused to no where;
Red & White - to Humidifier;
Red & White - to Outdoor Temperature Sensor.

The YORK furnace is working fine, new upgrade. The slick contractor left the humidifier wires unconnected back to the new furnace, following replacement.

The Furnace works fine! But:
Q1. How do I know which humidistat wires to connect to Furnace Control Board Terminals?
Q2, Q3.  Exactly which Terminals on the Furnace Control Board - which ones and how?

The children are all getting sick with dry throat, bleeding nose, dry eyes, even getting dizzy & disoriented. Please, HELP!  Thanks.


texts:
I want to learn house construction engineering in very cold climate (Sweden), wooden and brick.

It should cover the following questions (you don't need to answer it):

How the roof, walls and ground is designed and dimensioned.
How to determin where to put load bearing walls.
Why the walls structure are the way they are, and how do they carry the load.
how to determin which wall is load bearing in an existing structure.
How to know where to inforce a  structure when a modification is needed like adding a window or another floor.

I want to use this information to design 40 square meters expansion to my current house made of wood. And because I think it is very interesting subject to study.

Where do I begin?

Keep in mind that I'm interested mostly in construction in very cold climate zone.

Most of the courses/tutorials are for larger buildings or unusual house architectures.


texts: What could cause reoccurring leaks in a hot water pipe?

texts:
I have a 12 year old house. The past couple of months a couple of hot water pipes have sprung pin-hole leaks at the solder joints. This has happened on four separate occasions.

I've had three different plumbers look at it .

One thought just coincidence or bad luck.
One suggested perhaps a bad ground. Disputed by the other
plumbers.
One suggested water quality. Water was tested and appeared fine.

Wondering if anyone would have some thoughts / suggestions?

UPDATE:

To update, the cause was a hot water re-circulator. Apparently the flow of water over the course of years can erode the solder around the pipe joints. The hot water fittings were replaced and a timer put on the re-circulator to run only in the mornings.


texts: Is this termite damage? There's diagonal tan steak on the wood. When I tap the stud with a screw driver it feels solid. I don't see any tubes. Is it termite mud or simply dirt? How do I tell?


texts: What do I look for when buying a used gas cooktop

texts: We’re replacing an electric Jenn-air cooktop with a gas cooktop. I see several used ones on fb marketplace but worry about the safety of a used gas cooktop. Am I being paranoid or are there key things to look for when dealing with a used gas-based appliance?


texts: How can I replace a glass shade on my bathroom vanity?

texts:
I was cleaning and caught my duster on my bathroom vanity light fixture.  I must have pulled a bit too hard to release the duster because I managed to pull one of the frosted glass shades off the vanity.

How can I find who the manufacturer of the fixture is so I can try to find a replacement shade?  Where is the manufacturer information stamped on a light fixture such as this?


texts: Minimal temperature setting for hot water heater to prevent legionella

texts:
I own a small apartment which I rent out to tenants. The apartment has an electric hot water heater with 80 liters. I now realized that my tenant reduced the temperature setting to only 32 degrees Celsius. (it's summer where I live)
I have read the following advice to prevent legionella.
-Always keep the water at 60° Celsius
-Heat the water once a week to at least 60° Celsius.
Obviously to save electricity I would prefer the second solution, However is this safe if the water is only at 32° for the remaining time?
Can heating the water twice to 60° and keeping it at 32° Celsius be assumed to be safe?


texts: The builder states they would either have a structural engineer come in and evaluate, give recommendations.  Builder feels that the roof line could be pulled down by strapping down rafters???  There is not visible sign of water leaks or damage from the interior ceiling.  However, not sure I totally understand that process. They cannot access the rafters from the inside due to the vaulted ceiling starts when stairs to upstairs occur.   Please see photos attached....any thoughts how I should proceed?


texts: I used one coat of paint. The room looks good. Do I still need a second coat?

texts: I'm using Sherwin Williams paint & primer (2 in 1).


texts: How to connect bathtub drain pipe to existing floor drain?

texts:
I have this floor drain and I want to connect it to a bathtub drain so basically another pipe. The diameter is about 40mm of the narrower pipe, although it has a thick border.

It is most likely a  nanhi trap so I cannot remove without breaking stuff up but it also means that I don't need another p-trap.

So my plan is to either put a more narrower pipe inside and glue it ( like a 38mm if I can find it ), or use a compression connection for PVC pipes for a standard 40mm then connect another 40mm pipe on top of it and work from there.

The third way would be just to connect it to the whole top layer pipe, but that I don't know how it would make a perfect seal.

Would you say that any of these ideas are ok and some more preferable?


texts: Using a Radiator Space Heater to Support HVAC system

texts:
I'm looking for ways to heat my home up more efficiently. I live in a 1200 sqft home that sits on the first floor and partially in the ground. So, it gets pretty cold. I was thinking of getting a radiator space heater and placing it at the intake vent of my hvac to support heating. Anyone think this might be a bad idea or ineffective?

My current HVAC is an electric heat pump.


texts: What are the two wires that join together near the burners in my Whirlpool oven?

texts: The model number is wfe515soewo. I'm wondering about the wire that go to the burners. It has two wires that clip into the burner and as they go towards the back of the unit they turn into one wire. What is the point of that?


texts:
I bought this pull up bar that is designed to go into studs that are 16" apart Ultimate Body Press

My basement walls are only framed out so I can see all of the studs.  I started to mount it and realized the studs are 18" OC.  I'm trying to think of the best way to get this mounted and strong.

My leading idea right now is to buy 2 more 2x6 studs and attach them to the inside of the existing ones.  There is nothing running through the studs so it should be as simple as lining them up and screwing them together.  I would do a few screws horizontally and then 2 on the top and bottom at a 45 degree angle to attach to the base and top horizontal studs.  I believe the term is toeing?

Are there any downsides to this approach now or in the future.  At some point we will finish the basement and cover this all up with drywall.


texts: Will a GFCI device work on circuit where the neutral is switched?

texts:
How well will a GFCI circuit be able to detect current flows, if both the "hot" input and the (supposedly) "neutral" input to a GFCI outlet are energized?

The reason I am interested in this is that I am renting an old (1915) townhome and have discovered that an (ungrounded) wall outlet and a ceiling fixture are both controlled by a wall switch that opens the netural wire instead of the hot wire.  The result is that when switch is off, the direct neutral line is open, but the netrual input of the GFCI is connected to hot.  When I reported this to the landlord, their electrical contractor put in a GFCI, but they do not want to correct the open neutral.  (I think it may be a knob and tube circuit with only the neutral line going through the wall switch, so fixing it may require pulling apart the wall and/or rerunning the entire circuit.)

For what it is worth, when the switch is off (and both inputs are energized), the GFCI test button will trigger a disconnect, but the  reset button is not functional.  But I'm not sure if the test button guarantees that the GFCI is providing effective protection in this scenario, hence my question: will a GFCI circuit work when both inputs are energized and it has no real neutral and no ground?


texts: How can I repair the end of joists sitting in brick pockets?

texts: I have 2x8 joists over an 8 foot span that were eaten by termites on one end. I need to repair all of the joists in a small room. The building is double wythe structural brick that is approximately 100 years old. My current plan is to cut the affected ends of the joists off, attach a ledger board to the brick face using sleeve anchors, then use joist hangers to put in new ends and sister the old joists and new joists together. Does this sound like a good plan? How deep do the sleeve anchors need to be in? How much should the old and new joist overlap and what is the best way to secure them together?


texts: My old-style expansion tank is cold from top to bottom, but I hear boiling water in the pipes right above the gas furnace.  Is that normal?


texts: Which direction is the airflow through my furnace?

texts: There's multiple lines of ductwork along the side, and up top. So what's the correct direction of airflow (red or green in the image below)?


texts: thermostat connections with different size wires

texts: my current thermostat has 14 gauge wires connected to it and the wires are supplying 24 volts to the thermostat. i want to get a new thermostat but will need 18 gauge wires. since the voltage from the 14 gauge wires is 24, is it safe to nut new 18 gauge wires to the exist 14 gauge wires and then connect the 18 gauge wires to the new thermostat?


texts: "Professional" termination of mains wires

texts:
I am looking for a way to terminate stranded wires like this:

But in the DIY shops and I only find isolated ferrules with coloured plastic tubes to be put on top of the isolated part of the wire. Aesthetically, I prefer the "professional" option depicted above, which is also more suitable for confined space.

I wonder:

Can I buy such ferrules and crimp them myself with a normal crimper tool?
Does the depicted implementation have any significant disadvantages, making the isolated ferrules so popular?

Update: FWIW, so terminated wires are typical if you buy a wire with a mains plug in Europe, here is an example of a German cable.

Update 2: I realized that the picture may be not clear enough. The main "feature" of these ferrules is that originally they seem to be a flat piece of metal, rather than a tube. This stripe is wrapped around the wire. Therefore there is a seam. What I like about such crimp is that it's almost as thin as the wire, while a deformed tubular ferrule is always thicker, since otherwise it won't fit on the wire before crimping.


texts: I saw that my Natural Gas provider stated I could receive a benefit if I had one or installed one, so I was wondering what it was.


texts: Will I be able to remove 3M Electronics adhesive tape?

texts: I have an Energizer battery-powered LED lamp (model LW5072) that I wanted to add to a dark area. It sticks on with tape that has "3M Electronics" printed on the backing. Am I going to be able to remove this from painted wood later if I install it? If so, how?


texts:
I need to level a patch of ground in order to put in a shed, but there's a large stump right in the middle of where the shed will go.

Since I'm in a suburban setting, dynamite is out, fires are illegal, and I can't get a truck anywhere near the location.

Is there any way to easily remove the stump?  I've looked at renting something like a bobcat, but with delivery & pickup I'm looking at $500+.


texts: My apartment has a bouncy floor, but it's the only one

texts:
While we're waiting for an official inspection, I wanted to get some Internet experts' opinions.

I live in the 3rd-floor apartment of a building with two other units below me, all with virtually the same layout. Our living room floor is quite bouncy, so that we can see and feel it move a lot when our child or dog walks by, let alone an adult.

The ceiling of the 2nd-floor living room is visibly sagging and cracking, and moves when the floor upstairs is bouncing. It's pretty scary to see it from below.

Every other floor is solid, including the 2nd and 1st floor living rooms. The 1st floor living room ceiling is flat and free of cracks. This leads me to believe that there is a potentially serious problem with our floor, specifically.

Through all of this the landlord says this is totally normal and expected in an old building. I would agree if it were not completely inconsistent between the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

Am I reasonably concerned here?


texts:
I've been waiting for a receptacle equipped with USB to come out that supports adaptive charging. Adaptive charging actually changes the output voltage to like 9 volts when an appropriate devices connected.
These 2 or 3 amp USB outlets take like 10 hours to charge my phone

That amount of time renders them essentially useless. My adaptive charger will charge my phone in about an hour and a half.
I've been unable to source in adaptive charging receptacle at the big box stores or Amazon and the like.
Question
Does anybody, perhaps on the commercial side of things know of any adaptive charging receptacle? Actually it doesn't even have to be a receptacle just in wall adaptive charger would be sufficient.
side note
My automotive adaptive fast charger is made by Samsung
I do have a adaptive fast charger wall adapter from Samsung I have purchased many. My problem is that the kids always take the damn things and they go missing. In light of Harper's answer I think I will stick to the wall adapters and possibly take this question to the Parenting Stack Exchange. LOL.


texts: Are cheap electric brad nail guns worth it for fixing mouldings?

texts:
I am thinking of creating some doors out of MDF that will have moldings fixed to their fronts, these will be glued on.  I could try to clamp them somehow until the glue sets, but that sounds like a pain.

Another option is to fix them with small nails until the glue sets, and then fill in the holes – it seems that these days a lot of people are using brad nail guns for this.  Guns sell for between £17 and a few hundred pounds, are the low end models up to the job, or are a hammer and punch a better option?


texts: using foil-backed fiberglass water-heater blanket to replace oven insulation ruined by rats

texts: Is there any reason to NOT use this type of insulating material to wrap a kitchen oven?  It was all I could find in a hurry and seems like it should be adequate to handle the temperatures outside the oven.  The metal sides of the stove barely get warm and cooking seems to be OK.  However, my daughter commented that when using the oven she can smell an odor that gives her a headache.  Is there a reason she might smell this that I am missing?  We are still trying go find the exact fit parts from LG.


texts: What acceptable alternatives to trickle vents are available?

texts: Building Regulations require new windows to have trickle vents.  What alternatives are acceptable?  Can I put in a wall vent instead, like a hit and miss type, or air bricks?  I do not want to buy a beautiful hit spec. window and then put an ugly trickle vent and canopy in the frame, and some of my windows will not take this.


texts: How to Wire Fan with Black/White/Green to Ceiling with Black/White/Red/Bare?

texts:
We had a fan in our living room that started smoking so we're replacing it. However, the wiring on the new fan is different from the old fan so I can't figure out how to wire it into the ceiling.

The old fan was connected to two switches, one switch on one wall and the other switch on the opposite wall. The old fan also had lights. However, the lights and the fan blades were controlled by a remote control separate from the light switches. The wall switches just gave power to the whole fan and then the remote control allowed us to turn on the lights, fan blades or both.

In the ceiling there is one large wire that contains a black wire, a white wire, a red wire, and a bare copper wire.

In the new fan there is a black wire, a white wire, and a green wire.

If it weren't for the red wire in the ceiling, I would just wire up everything to the same color (black to black, white to white, and green to bare copper).

However, I have no idea what to do with that extra red wire in the ceiling.

Any ideas?


texts: I am rewiring my kitchen and I have installed 28 inch wide windows. NEC states that there should be no space along the countertop that is more than 24 inches from the nearest outlet. With the window trim installed, I don't believe that there will be enough space between the countertop and the window (unless I put the box in sideways, but then this would complicate the back-splash) to install a receptacle. Would it be permissible to have the spacing in this particular location to be more than 24 inches (approximately 30-32 inches), or must I do something about this?


texts:
Are there any plastic circuit breaker panel enclosure? What brand have them?

Won't it be better if panel enclosure are plastic instead of metal?

What material would be best, resin? fiberglass? polycarbonate? molded plasic? What are other plastic materials?


texts: power distribution loss of negative on 120v circut

texts: If you loose the negative wire on a 120v circuit, can you use the negative going to a different circuit breaker panel supplying  power to a different part of the building if the load is not high on that panel?


texts: Last night we had a good rain storm and an exterior GFCI outlet tripped. That outlet is controlled by a switch in my foyer and is used to turn walkway lights on or off. The test button of the outlet is depressed, and pressing the reset button doesn't do anything. It just springs back when pushed. The light on the GFCI outlet is illuminated. I checked the circuit breaker and it wasn't tripped, but I turned it off and back on anyway but that didn't change anything. Since this is an exterior outlet controlled by a switch I don't believe that there's anything downstream from it.


texts: We are looking for a replacement for a fixture that attaches to our hand held shower and hose. It has a female connector that slides on top of the male connector as shown. Could someone tell us what this is called, or where we could purchase a replacement?


texts: Comparison of various home-automation systems?

texts: Could anyone provide a comparison (or just link) of home-automation systems (such as FS 20, HomeEasy, RSL, ...)? (Wikipedia contains just a short list and I am unable to find something something neutral and more comprehensive.)


texts: Only two of the tiles are cracked and one portion of grout chipping away (first picture). I think it's because the surface is uneven and poor cushioning. I know people would ideally rip open the whole thing and relevel and lay new tile, but I can't afford that right now. Is there a more economical way to fix this issue and prevent the tiles from cracking in the future?


texts: What is the best way to remove spray paint from a blacktop driveway?

texts: I have an area on my blacktop driveway that some kids thought needed some spray paint, what is the best way to remove it without damaging the blacktop?


texts: What causes oven program to change when oven light goes on?

texts:
I have an Electrolux oven with induction burners and convection oven.  Today, I cooked a roast on 'convection/roast'.  When I opened the oven door, the program changed to 'keep warm'.  I tried the other oven programs ('regular/bake', convection/bake, etc.) and the same happened.  I've discovered that it happens whenever the oven light goes on, either by turning it on myself or by opening the oven door.  Resetting the oven at the main switch didn't help.
This is a horrendous problem as I have to reset the oven every time I open the door to check the contents.
Help would be much appreciated.


texts:
I am preparing to start a bathroom renovation, and when we're redoing the shower, we plan to install a corner drain (this one, in fact). Based on the installation instructions, we need to angle the floor along both axes to provide about 1/2" of drop from the surrounding level floor.

How should I go about tiling the walls to accommodate the 1° slope? Are there fixtures designed for cutting small angles?


texts: Insulating and reducing boominess of plywood subfloor

texts:
I have a plywood subfloor in a ground floor extension that is laid directly on the joists. The current floor is half solid wood tongue-and-groove laid on top of green fibre underlay and half fake tile-effect fibrous T&G on the underlay on chipboard. The floor and subfloor is coming up so I can install strutting to stiffen the floor as it is a bit bouncy and I want to tile the non-wood bit.

While I have the subfloor up, it seems like a good opportunity to lay some insulation to keep the kitchen floor from getting too cold in winter - I was going to just lay some glassfibre matting between the joists after strutting. Is that appropriate?

The floor is also quite boomy (plywood over a big sounding box, basically). Is there anything I can do about that, other than the glassfibre insulation?


texts: How do I plumb LP gas lines for multiple things? Tiki torches, grill, smoker

texts: I am an experienced DYIer and am starting my research on building my deck. I would like to plumb it for eight tiki torches, a grill and a smoker. I have experience plumbing gas, I plumbed my last house for natural gas. I would like to know where to turn to answer my questions on "Will I have enough pressure to operate all at the same time" and "How many torches can I run in a single line."


texts:
We built a pergola last fall and are noticing some wiggle in the structure.

The columns are bolted into deepened edges of a concrete slab, But we did not want traditional brackets at the column to roof connection, so unfortunately the structure is not designed well for shear.

The structure is 8' to bottom of roof on the low side of the 1:12 roof. I wonder if we can add tension rods as an x at top of the columns. The bottom of the x would be at 6'8". Or maybe we could add trellis on two sides of the structure?

Any other ideas?


texts: I am building a fire pit in my backyard. I have poured a 6 inch thick concrete foundation and want to install concrete pavers on top of the concrete base. I have been unable to find any recommendations for the best type mortar to use. What type mortar should be used for laying concrete pavers on a new concrete patio?


texts: Valve for outdoor spigot cannot identify

texts:
I cannot identify this Valve for an outdoor spigot I have the house was built in 1956 brick in and out so replacing entire spigot a real chore looking for valve replacement
Any help would be appreciated


texts: Is there a way to buy a sink stopper clevis separately?

texts:
My bathroom sink stopper is broken because of a missing clevis. The rods are there, but nothing connects them. I can obviously replace the whole thing, but I would like to buy only a clevis if possible.

On Amazon and HD/Lowe's web sites they only sell full kits, not parts.

Is there a way to buy a clevis separately? (Not necessarily the sink stopper one -- anything that would solve the problem.)


texts: How to adjust tub water level with standing waste stopper?

texts:
I have an old tub with a standing waste stopper. When the drain is closed, if the water level gets too high, it automatically drains down to a fixed level. That level was 3/4 of the tub depth, until the building maintenance man did something to the standing waste mechanism--he doesn't know what--and it now drains to about a third of the tub depth. In order to take a bath, I have to use a rubber disk over the drain.  Very frustrating.

Anyone know what he might have done to make this happen? If so, what can I do to restore it to the previous level?  Thanks.


texts: Can I swap my natural gas water heater for an electric model in my hydronic system?

texts:
I'm in the market for a new water heater and had some questions.
Current unit is an 50g Envirosense Power Direct Vent heater (Model No. 6G50100N full specs). The water heater is part of a hydronic system meaning it's also the source of heat for my home, I don't have a standalone furnace.
Despite being less efficient, I'd really love to switch from natural gas to an electric as, per Saul Griffith, I'm trying to replace all natural gas appliances I have with electric models to do my part against climate change.
(Note that this only works because in Ontario, where I live, 96% of electricity is provided by zero-carbon sources like nuclear and hydroelectric so electrifying this appliance doesn't end up netting more carbon.)
The issue I have is that I'm not sure I can use an electric unit.
Current model has a recovery rate of 116.36 US Gallons / Hour. Electric models I find online seem to have recovery rates that barely break 25 G / H. My concern is that, since this is part of a hydronic system, my current recovery rate is needed to be able to heat my home in the winter (I live in Canada) as well as supply regular hot water needs (showers, dishwasher, etc.).
Am I stuck getting a natural gas unit to match that recovery rate? Are there any engineers who could help me with a ballpark calculation I could do to determine the "minimum recovery rate" I need, given that I have a hydronic system?


texts: I've been thawing 30lbs of meat in the refrigerator. I discovered some of the food items in the freezer started to thaw. The temperature in the fridge before I took out the meat was 37 degrees. The temperature in the freezer was 23 degrees. Will thawing large quantities of frozen food in the fridge prevent the freezer from cycling on?


texts: How can I repair the chuck on my cordless drill?

texts:
I have a cordless drill, over the years the chuck has moved further away from the body of the drill, opening up a large gap. It no longer fits in my toolbox!

Black and Decker KC1282F Cordless Drill

How are these keyless chucks attached? Can I remove and re-attach the chuck so that it sits flush with the body of the drill?

Update:

I tried the method in Hightower's answer, which, it is now clear, is the correct procedure.

However the screw appeared to be a Torx screwhead. Here's what happened when I tried to turn it clockwise (by hand, using a normal sized screwdriver) ...

:-(

I may have to buy a suitable bit for an impact driver. Or wait for the chuck to fall off whilst I am drilling. Or just buy a new drill.


texts:
So I'm planning on adding a new aquarium to my collection and I'd like to put it over my television on my entertainment center. However, when the tank is filled it will weight between 350-400 pounds and I am not sure the furniture can support that.

My idea is to purchase some 2x12's and have them extend the platform the aquarium sits on to the posts on either end. Will this be enough to safely transfer weight to the support beams? I'm concerned that even if I do sucessfully build the platform it will still be unsafe.

Would definitely love some opinions on whether or not this is a good idea and is achievable in a reliable way. Here are some photos of what I'm dealing with.

Thanks!


texts: So I was in the process of hanging drywall in a room in our house, as part of a renovation project (we had to fix a large 4 ft by 2 ft patch). I was in the middle of laminating coats of compound over the joints when I had to leave the house for a couple weeks. To help keep things moving, we asked someone to paint the room our new eggshell color, but avoid the large wall patch area. Well we got back and they painted over my partially finished taping job, despite my specific request they not do so. It's pretty unsightly. Ugh. What should I do? Should I try to sand off the eggshell paint and finish taping? Or should I scuff up the wall with a sanding block and compound over the paint, seal it, and then paint again?


texts:
How do I open the connecting block on a Knightsbridge low voltage shower light?

I have removed the clip and the cable retainer but am unsure of how to open the plastic case to attach the wiring to the transformer. The plastic cover appears to hinge to the left but I'm afraid of breaking it by using undue force.


texts: What is the proper method to creating butcher block for a computer workstation?

texts:
I've been looking into creating my own custom computer workstation and for the top I wanted to create butcher block but I am needing it pretty thick to be able to hold the weight of servers, monitors, and laptops I am working on.  I am using pipe underneath to support the top  so that will effect how thick the wood will be, such as this:

After several weeks of research I have seen a variety of methods used from:

Just glue
Pin Nailing and gluing
Pocket Jig

With all the weight of the hardware I dont want the wood to bow and I will be running supports in the center as such:

Image from this tutorial

So my questions are:

What wood should I use and how thick for a 36" x 84" table?
What is the best method to build the tops?

I did see some butcher block at IKEA but sadly I dont have an IKEA near me.


texts: Why does a single pole tandem breaker allow connecting the switch handles?

texts:
Specifically I am looking at a QOTO2020:

You can see what seem to be holes in the handles for a connection pin.

On a single pole breaker I can't think of an application where you would want both independent circuits to switch off in the event of a fault on one of them. Unlike a 2 pole (USA) breaker where you would want both legs to go off in unison.

What use would be pinning the two handles together? Or are those holes not for that purpose?


texts: Electrical code - Cable coming through wall terminating at outlet immediately on the other side

texts:
Can anyone advise if running a cable through a outside wall, one is allowed to terminate that cable immediately on that outside wall in the form of a NEMA 14-50 outlet? I live in Maryland, USA, if that is helpful.

Would be extra helpful if a link to an online copy of section of the electrical code that stipulated the requirements in the above regard could be provided in an answer.


texts: How do I hang a wall accessory fitted with 'Wall Grabbers' by Pinnacle?

texts: How is this shelf meant to be hung? Should I just use two screws into the drywall? It won't be supporting anything heavy, but screws don't seem like they would make the shelf mount flush to the wall.


texts: Semi-permanent installation of 4x8 wall paneling suggestions?

texts:
I'm in the process of redoing my home office.  I work from home and do a lot of brainstorming/design work so I'm wanting to put floor to ceiling dry erase boards along 2 walls.  I've decided on these melamine panels (http://m.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949) but I don't really want to just glue them over the existing gypsum drywall.

This room will be an office for as long as I own the home but in the event I move, I would like to not create a nightmare for the new owners by attaching these with construction adhesive.

Without putting screws every few inches or fully framing these (would look terrible), are there any other mounting solutions that will keep these on the wall without sagging/ buckling?


texts: Replaced Safe-T-Beam on Genie Garage door opener, now I have no power

texts:
I replaced the Safe-T-Beam sensors on my garage door opener because of periodic issues with the door not closing. Now I have no power from the unit (SilentMax 1000). I tested the outlet and it has power, but I can't get any of the buttons on the unit to work, and I can't even get the emitter to blink intermittently showing that it's out of line. I rewired to the old sensors and the same behavior.

All of my wire connections seem safe and connected, but I'm at a loss as to what to do next.


texts: I'm planning built-in shelves with a design similar to the pictures belwo.  Building the shelves is straightforward to me but I'm not sure how to do the installation and/or what kinds of "invisible" brackets could be used to secure it to the wall/floor.  Any thoughts on the best approach to achieve a similar look to the photos?


texts:
I'd recently acquired a fibreglass recurve bow, with a horrid (in contrast, at least!) pink identification on the handle in what I presume is paint:

I swapped it in isopropyl alcohol for a bit, nothing. Sat it dabbed in acetone for some time (although the quality of said acetone might have degraded over time) - however it is as remains in the shot below above.

Any idea of what I should do? Is that grey even paint, and is sitting the whole thing in some sorta solvent a bad idea?


texts:
Just moved into a new house and had a new washer and dryer delivered today. When they installed them, they said they couldn't complete the washer install due to this cap on the drainage pipe.
They mentioned it might be a knockout, but, in trying to knock it out, all that's happened is my knocking out a chunk of it. I then decided to drill a hole in it and see if I could pull it out with pliers, which didn't work.
So, what is it, and how should I go about getting through it for the drainage line?


texts: No current to GFCI outlet after installation in to junction box

texts:
I just installed a new 20 amp GFCI in an outdoor outlet. There are only three wires coming out of the junction box, the black, white and copper wire. After installation, I turned the current back on to ensure the outlet was functioning correctly. It was. I wrapped the GFCI in electrical tape to cover the terminals. I then inserted the outlet into the junction box and it stopped working. Additionally I tested to see if there is no voltage in the neutral wire or the metal junction box. There is none. The wires coming out of the junction box do not have any obvious defects. The GFCI does not trip, it just receives no current after installation into the junction box. The only other device on the same circuit breaker is getting current and operates fine.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: Must remove old adhesive before installing new peel and stick vinyl?

texts:
Advice needed!  There are three layers of flooring currently in our kitchen :

1) original linoleum

2) 20 year old vinyl tile (something like peel and stick)

3) 15 year old vinyl peel and stick planks

We are taking up the last two layers, and plan to install new grouted peel and stick vinyl over the original linoleum.
Do we need to remove the adhesive leftover from the second layer of vinyl before installing? Really hoping we don’t !! It’s a family property and we’re trying to give it a face-lift on the cheap.

If we do need to remove the old adhesive, any suggestions as to how?


texts: How to stain wood filler on deck railing?

texts: I first used a non-stainable PC-Woody to repair some cracks and nail holes on treated deck posts and railings without thinking. When I realized my mistake, I switched to a stainable wood filler (DAP plastic Wood-X). I thought I was doing the smarter thing :) Guess what! It turned out to be that both are not stainable. They look lighter color than wood itself after stained. I am painting my deck railings and posts, with Behr Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Exterior Wood Stain and Sealer (California Rustic color). Is there a way I can remedy this? I am wondering if I sand the wood filler, can I apply some primer on it and then use the stain again or some other way.


texts: How can I eliminate an odor in an unvented bathroom?

texts: I have a very small bathroom in my office.  The said bathroom is unventilated.  Obviously it leads to a foul smell in the bathroom.  Please suggest to me some method by which the foul smell can be eliminated.


texts: Why is my AC suddenly *heating* my house?

texts:
I have a 13 SEER heat pump about one year old. Everything's been working fine, but the AC suddenly started heating my house spontaneously (no changes to thermostat, etc).

The outside ambient temperature is 80°F but the incoming air measures 116° at the vent. The odd part is that the outside condensing unit is blowing 68°F (cold?).

What might be causing this?


texts: Please can someone advise what is the correct name for these screws? I went to a local DIY store but couldn't seem to get them.


texts: Can we plaster our ceiling without removing the crown molding

texts: We have removed popcorn from the ceiling and it now needs to be plastered. The crown molding in place is in perfect condition and we would like to leave it. Will it be possible to plaster the ceiling without the mounding getting messed up? Big thanks in advance!


texts: What anchors to use on walls with rigid foam insulation behind the wallboard?

texts:
My builder installed insulation board over the existing solid brick walls in our new kitchen. I need to install anchors for string shelf supports but haven't had any luck finding the right ones.

I've drilled through the wall to the brickwork. Depth from inside face of wall to brick is 110mm approx. There is studwork attached to the brickwork and then either 12 or 18mm plywood attached to that. Then the insulation board and plasterboard on top. My problem is that there is only approx 45mm gap between the brick and plywood so the anchors I've tried to install (link below) can't rotate up to grab the plywood as they need just a bit more room than I have. I tried shaving off some of the brick with a long sds bit but don't have the space to manouever it and don't want to damage the outer wall with my fiddling.

This is an image of how the builder explained it is laid out, and it seems to fit with my drilling:

Here are the anchors I've tried. Any suggestions?


texts: What tools should I use to machine large holes in polycarbonate sheet?

texts: I need to drill two concentric holes on a 10 mm. polycarbonate sheet. The first one is 50 mm (diameter) and 6 mm. deep, while the second is 30 mm. (diameter) and goes through the sheet. I am not familiar with the polycarbonate material and I am not sure if what I am describing is even possible. In case it is possible, which tools can I use, I thought in using a 50 mm hole saw, but the afterwards I am not sure how to carve the remaining material. The idea is depicted in the schema.


texts: Routing SER cable through a subpannel/junction box without making splices?

texts:
Due to other constrains I may need to route a SER cable feeding a remote subpanel via a junction box (or another small subpanel for convinience). This junction box will be connected back to back to a main service panel (the main is outside on siding while the said box is inside on the same wall and location connected via short fixture back-to-back).
Questinon: Can the SER cable enter the junction box and than be stripped from outsize sheeth and than individual wires routed to the main service pannel (bypassing any connections in the junction box).
I suppose, if not the alternative could be to use the small subpanel and connect the said SER to a breaker in the inside subpannel hence daisy-chaining the main(braker)->junction subpannel(breaker)->remote subpannel.
Another perhaps could be to splice the SER cable with individual wires designated for individual use?


texts: Can I use 1 Nest Thermostat with 2 boilers?

texts: I have 2 boilers in my house. 1 is for the main house and the other one is for the annex which is built a few feet away from the main house. My 1st boiler is connected to Nest thermostat. Can I connect my 2nd boiler to the same Nest thermostat?


texts:
I have a weird one and may not be related.  Came back from vacation and my basement was partially flooded from the Water Heater (looked like it was leaking from the bottom).  As I was cleaning it up, we noticed the 2nd story shower was leaking water (more than a drip).  I turned both valves off going to the shower till I could take a look at it.  I took out the water heater and have not replaced it yet.  I am trying to see what the deal with the shower was with just the cold water and after opening & closing the valve, no water is coming out.  Would the hot water heater have anything to do with the cold water going to the shower?  The toilet and sink both work.  Only other thing i could think of is maybe the gate valve that cuts the cold water on/off isnt working?

2nd part to this.  I had to cut the water heater to get it out.  When i cut into it, it was full.  That doesnt make sense that it was full of water when i cut it up but when i had it running, it was leaking at the bottom?  Maybe i'm losing my mind...


texts: Why do my stove elements heat on high regardless of the knob setting?

texts: My elements stay on high no matter where i turn the knob to - low, medium or high.  Does this mean they need replacing or is there another problem?


texts: What's the right name of the things that mount a frameless mirror to the wall through the mirror?

texts:
I feel silly asking this question but I don't know the term for the little things that hold a frameless mirror to the wall through holes in the mirror. They're often little plastic stars or metal washers.

I'm asking because I want to search for nice looking ones online, instead of the crappy plastic ones that are so easy to find at hardware stores.

(And if anyone happens to know of a good site to find some iron rustic looking ones - our bathroom has lighting by Hubbardton Forge - I'd appreciate any links as well.)

UPDATE: just a bit of clarification - I'm asking about the actual decorative parts that cover up the screw that secures the mirror. In my particular case the mirror is very large and was glued to the wall by my contractor. The mirror has four holes in it for additional security I guess, and he put in a kind of ugly screw/washer combo.

Because the mirror is glued to the wall there's no space behind it for a standoff, and because the holes are in the mirror, clips are not what I need. I guess what I'm looking for is just the "top" part of a standoff - the nice looking bolt head and washer part.

I've seen the word "rosette" used online but it almost always refers to an ugly plastic star that you see in cheap motels. Looking for something much nicer, a keyword or phrase I can plug into Google.


texts: I just recently bought one of those really old Galaxy convection space heaters.  They have always worked so well.  But they screech when they start to heat.  Mind you, this product could very well be 40 or more years old.  Is there any way I can rig it so that it doesn’t screech?  I’m pretty sure it’s the coils making that awful noise and not the fan.


texts: How to control 120V power outlet with low voltage

texts:
I would like to power a 120V attic fan every time my AC comes on. The low voltage wire connecting the thermostat with the compressor (to control the compressor) runs through the attic (as the compressor is on the roof) and I was thinking to put some sort of junction in the attic so the same wire that turns the compressor on also controls the attic fan. I can easily branch off a ceiling light box to install a box to power this, outlet or direct wiring.
My question is: which electrical device (switch?) can I use to input 24V and release or stop 120V outlet or direct wiring (on a separate circuit than the low voltage)? I imagine something like a power transformer that hangs on the outlet (input), and an input from the low voltage wire which controls another outlet (out) depending on whether it is charged or not.
I am asking this because the fan that I have is not smart and does not take thermostat input, only 120V on/off. So I am trying to control the release of the 120V every time the AC is on, as the control wire for it runs near.


texts: Two check valves in a series on discharge pipe

texts:
Is there any downside to having two check valves in series?  I'm installing a new sump pump that came with a new check valve. Several feet from the sump pump, there is an existing check valve on the discharge pipe.

Unless there's a reason not to, my plan is to install the new check valve lower on the discharge pipe leaving the existing check valve on the same discharge pipe.


texts: Why does double f96t12 fixture sometimes not light until a bulb is touched?

texts: two f96t12 single pole bulbs in a grounded and properly wired metal fixture sometimes neither bulb will light until I touch one of them and both immediately light up.  If I touch a bulb and the metal fixture at the same time I feel a very light shock in my finger even when I am not grounded. I have seen this in other similar fixtures and always wondered about it.


texts: Without Access to the Garage Interior, How Can I Replace the Handle/Lock?

texts:
I have an external garage, with a manual overhead door (no powered opener).  There is no side access door.

After the recent winter, I tried opening the garage again, and the handle will not turn.  I believe the lock is disengaging, as I hear a 'click' when I turn the key.  The lock is below the handle, separate from it.  I tried tapping the handle with a hammer lightly, but didn't want to strike too hard for fear of breaking my only possible entryway.

Is there reasonable any way to get in, or do I need a professional?  And if I need to call someone--does it make more sense to call a locksmith or a garage repair company/specialist?


texts: Why do I have a green light on my GFCI but the outlet will not come on?

texts:
While cleaning, my niece sprayed my GFCI outlet causing it to go out. I attempted to reset it but came up with negative results. I purchased another one, hooked it together (green light came on showing that the outlet was good) but no power is coming through. The plug is also connected to an additional outlet which doesn't have any problem.

What is causing this and how do I fix it?


texts: What's with the different FHR ratings of these hot water tanks?

texts:
We're replacing our tank with a more efficient one and we can't go tankless given the cold input temperatures in Canada and the amount of output we need (for a triplex with 7 people).
So I've been researching tanks. Both Rheem and Bradford White seem to offer the most efficient, high quality tanks. I've determined from my calculations that we could get away with something in the 100-120FHR range to serve the peak shower time in the morning for the household.
One thing I'm completely confused by though is the Bradford White high performance energy saver 25gallon tank. Every tank we've seen is around 50-75 gallons with an FHR ranging from 80-120. This 25 gallon tank says it has an FHR of 155 gallons (200 gallons FHR for the 50 gallon tank). I'm wondering first how is this possible, and second, why this listing would say it's intended for a 1 person household.
What one person would ever use 155 gallons of hot water in an hour? I'm positive that our house, with 3 showers and low flow heads at 10 minutes a shower with 90 degree rise would use about 105 gallons of hot water. What am I missing with this particular tank? It seems too good to be true that a 25gallon tank could serve us and its even more confusing to say that 155gallon FHR is only good for one person.
Any thoughts?
edit
I've realized what's wrong with my assumptions that 150FHR would serve our house. If I assume we need 105 gallons for a a worst case scenario of 3 simultaneous 10 minute showers, repeated twice (ie 6 showers over 20 minutes) then that's 105 gallons in 20 minutes, not an hour. So I need to take the recover of the tank for an hour, divide by 3 and add it to the capacity. So its recovery is 82gal/hr which means in the first 20 minutes we'd only get 45 gallons (approx) of water.


texts: Why does our shower make a screaming noise?

texts:
Our shower has a problem...It's very loud!  When water hits the correct temperature and flow the shower immediately starts shrieking like a banshee.

It seems to be related to the flow because we can turn down the flow rate but keep the same temperature. This causes the shrieking to stop but it also gives us a wimpy little shower.  If we turn on the shower but make it fast and cold then there is no shrieking either.

Another piece of data is that the shower has two separate physical heads on opposite sides of the shower and 1. only one of the heads makes this sound, and 2. the shrieking doesn't depend on whether both heads are running or only one head is running.  The heads seem to be fed by separate pipes.

Has anyone had a problem with an old shower making noise like this?  We're not sure whether the problem is the pipes or the shower head.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated...


texts: Can MR16 12V DC LED bulbs be used on 12V AC power?

texts: I have DC MR16 bulbs. Is it safe to use them on my AC track lighting? Will that work?


texts: I just installed a new P5 Pure Pro trio oil boiler heating system replacement of old 27 year old system, and with the new system I converted to zone values from 5 circulators now I have one circulator, total of 5 zones one being for hot water with Amtrol 60 water heater for my hot water supply.  My first floor is always cool and calling for heat, so I have an idea like to try, manually open that first floor zone (always open) so antytime the other 4 thermostats call for heat, the first will also get heat also since the entire system is on one circulator, I welcome pros and cons?? Any any draw backs to do that from the heat system? Cost more? Use more oil or less oil?


texts: What can I do about this gap between the sill/exterior board and the subfloor?

texts:
I just discovered that my sill plate and joist setup is different than others I've seen (and I was a Realtor, so I've seen a lot of sills).

As you can see from the picture, there's a gap between the exterior board and the subfloor. Covering that gap, on the exterior, is just some tar paper and vinyl siding. So as you can imagine, cold air here in Maine is just pouring in.

I have two questions - is there a potential structural issue? and what should I do to fix it? spray foam? cut 2 x 6's and attach to inside?

More information: house built in '78, floor joists are insulated, area is a crawlspace, joists rest on on full length steel I-beam.

Any help would be appreciated.


texts: Move a gas meter 150ft or install your own gas line?

texts:
I am DIY-ing a house in Montana where a mobile home used to exist nearby (150ft away). There is an existing NG meter (250CFH). Of course my home is much larger and needs a little over 500 CFH. This does not include the demand for a future planned shop. The main line will support me, but the meter must be swapped regardless (at the utility company's cost). The current meter is at/near the future shop location. This is important to remember (if I move meter to house, I still need gas for shop eventually).
The question is - pay to move the meter ($2200) or install my own gas line? Paying to move the meter is a simple solution that is done by someone else per the utility company requirement.
My own gas line:
This is a 150ft run. I would need a 2" inch line at 2PSI (gives me 900 something CFH) and the utility company is "uncomfortable with this, but will do it." However, isn't the 2 PSI an issue for appliances? Utility company won't advise on things beyond meter. But, seems like I'd need some pressure reduction system for each device? One for entire home?
My appliances are:
Gas HVAC: 200k BTU
Gas on-demand hot water: 250k BTU
Gas dryer: 25k BTU
Gas cook-top: 45k BTU
Future: Pool heater possibility and exterior BBQ.


texts: Why does all of my house water stop working when the washer is in use? Water is running in to the washer when in use but all the water like in the kitchen sink and in the bathroom is not working. Once the washer stop, all the water supply come right back around the house.


texts: How to limit bathroom shower water usage by time?

texts:
I have a teenage daughter whose showers are getting longer all the time and I am getting tired of fighting with her about taking all the hot water. Therefore, my question is about installing a device that controls the flow of hot water only to the shower that she uses.

I have already tried a water saving shower head and that didn't change anything. I want to install a variable flow control device that gradually cuts off hot water flow at various pre-set time intervals. As an electrician, I can figure out how to control it, but I'm just not sure if such a device exists.

Does anyone know of such a thing or have a better idea? Also, in the meantime, if I gradually close the inlet valve to my hot water heater while she is in the shower, do I run the risk of siphoning the water from the tank and doing damage to the tank?


texts: Connecting an 18AWG wire to a 20AWG wire

texts:
I have some equipment that is powered by an AC/DC power plug. The plug input is 100-240V - 50/60Hz 0.8A. The output is 12V 2A.

The wire for the plug is a bit short, so I want to extend its reach. I found a power adapter extension that connects properly (2.1mm x 5.5mm, Male to Female) (it's here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTFYH0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

However, this extension uses UL2468 / 20AWG while the cord coming out of the AC/DC power plug is 18AWG. Can I safely use the power adapter extension with this AC/DC power plug, or do I risk damaging the equipment?


texts: Can I tighten unused terminal screws on my outlets?

texts:
I bought some receptacle extenders in 1/4 and 3/8 to bring outlets more flush to drywall. The outlets have push-in connectors on the back.

Is there any harm in screwing down the terminals screws on the socket sides as well?  There is a flange on the back of the extenders and I thought more clearance is a good thing as the side screws are close, even thought not used.  Thanks!


texts: How do I realign copper water pipes after cutting?

texts:
I cut a 1/2" copper pipe to insert a tee fitting a which will eventually go to a Pex line for an outdoor tap.  The copper pipe was vertical, and when I completed the cut I found that the pipe was actually under tension.  The top half of the pipe moved, and now the pipes are not exactly in a straight line.  I can still position the two halves in a fitting, but each pipe wants to force the fitting in a different direction.  Let's say the bottom one is basically plumb but the top half wants to rest at about 10 degrees from vertical.  I hesitate to solder it in this position.  Can I still get a good seal when I have to force the pipes to work with the fitting?

I can't change either pipe -- they are close to the main shutoff valve.  I also don't want to introduce a pressure drop for the whole house by replacing the section with Pex.  (Really wish the house had 3/4" pipes.)  I was able to patch it up with Sharkbite for now.  Sharkbite is more tolerant of the pipes not being plumb than an inflexible copper fitting.

Should I try to bend the top pipe to force it to be vertically?  Is there a safe way to do this copper?  Or maybe I would be better off cutting the top pipe in a second place and soldering another fitting to get a better match?


texts:
So I have a frozen vent pipe.
A plumber tried to use a snake on it and said he's just getting ice chips. There is no cap on it and of course it's pointed straight up - temperatures have been down around -15 to -20 the last couple of nights.

Any ideas for how to thaw the vent pipe?


texts:
So this is confusing me a lot.

I have a gaming computer in my office, connected to an UPS (battery backup). If I plug my space heater in and turn it on in my bedroom (same breaker), the outlet the UPS is plugged into stops working. It doesn’t trip the breaker; it just stops supplying power until I turn the space heater off.

This is also true for the other outlet in the same room as the computer.

Does anyone know the cause or how to fix this?


texts: Is water taste an indication that my softener is failing?

texts: My softener uses potassium chloride and it seems to affect the taste of the water when it recharges.  The bad taste would come and go after a few days time.  I put it on bypass and the bad taste has gone away.  I put a small piece of the potassium chloride in a glass of water to let it dissolve and sampled it and it seems to be the culprit.  Do I need a new softener?


texts:
I have a 100 amp service running from meter base to new garage, that's completely wired.

Now, I'm going to run from garage to new house under construction. I want to use another one hundred amp panel with main breaker. The Inspector said to run 3 conductors with bonding wire to house, this will eliminate having to add ground rods. I know red and black go to main breaker, white to common.

Here is the question, where do I run the bond wire to?

I know I'll have to run a 6 gauge to gas line, but the bond wire has me confused.


texts:
Modern air handlers (the indoor portion of an AC/heat pump system) have a variable speed motor in two parts: the motor itself and an ECM "module", a computerized motor controller.  They are viciously expensive to replace.

According to do-it-yourselfers and Youtubes starring guys in HVAC uniforms, the most common failure of ECMs is the thermistor, a five-dollar part. Every one of those videos, without exception, show an exploded component (lookes like a capacitor the size of nickel), and burns on the bottom of the circuit board.

Is is possible or normal for a thermistor to fail with no outward signs?  Based on the relative costs, I will probably replace the thermistor before buying a completely new ECM.


texts: Why is 2-3 volts on 120 v circuit that is not connected

texts: I see 2-3 volts on a 120 volt circuit that is not connected to a breaker.


texts: Pull power from hard-wired smoke detector?

texts:
I'd like to put a power outlet in a closet to power some tech. I have access to the attic above the closet so I'm looking for possible sources to tap into. I first thought about ceiling-mounted lights, but they're switched so I don't imagine I can get full-time power from them.
I do have hard-wired smoke detectors mounted in the ceiling, and they're on all the time. Can I tap into one of them to power the new outlet?


texts: Just bought house with hairline diagonal crack from window

texts: We just bought our house at the end of November here in Wisconsin. So weather is changing. Noticed this crack by the window. House is from 60s I believe. Should I be concerned? Or could this be from tempture change. This does stem from a large corner window with two windows near it too.


texts: What type of connector, adapter or tubing do I need to connect the fridge to the water line?

texts:
I need to know what type of connector, adapter or tubing I need to connect the fridge to the water line with this type of valve: white plastic with a blue shut off valve:

(Source: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00PFTFV8W?pc_redir=T1)


texts: Does RedGard count as a rubber sealer in a shower?

texts:
In standard poured shower pan construction there is normally a rubber layer between the bottom flat layer, and the upper sloped layer.

Today I came across the following "updated" method:

(credit: Mr. Money Mustache)

I am under the impression that redgaurd is used primarily to keep splashes and overflow from causing an issue, and not as a primary water repellant.

Is redgard, or any comparable product, able to hold up under this kind of abuse?


texts: How can I alter these wooden towel hooks so that the towels don't fall off?

texts:
We have this rack of towel hooks in our bathroom, but the hooks are so smooth that the towels easily fall off.

How can I alter it so that the towels don't fall off?

I'd rather not roughen up the wood, as it may pull thread out of the towels. Perhaps there's some sort of rubbery coating I could paint on to the top of each hook?


texts: Best way to fix bottoming-out on driveway curb-cut?

texts:
The distance between the street gutter and the top of the sidewalk in the curb-cut for my driveway is short making the angle at the crest such that a car bottoms-out when entering or leaving the driveway (see photo). I ground down the crest a bit (that was a lot of work) and it helps some, but not enough, so I need to do something else.
One thing many driveways near me have is about a 2" lip on the gutter side that "pre-lifts" the car up before getting to the crest.  But I believe that would require jack-hammering out the about 30 sq. feet of concrete and pouring new concrete and that's not that cheap to do.
I've seen other driveways where it looks like (somehow) they've added additional asphalt on the gutter side to have the same effect of pre-lifting the car up.  I've seen "asphalt patch" bags or tubs for sale to patch asphalt driveways, but would that work for a larger 10 sq. foot area?
The last thing I've seen are driveway curb ramps that are essentially big pieces of rubber you affix to the street, but that requires a specialized drill to drill into the concrete.
What's my best option?

Update
Per a comment, I'll define "best" as longest-lasting that, while it doesn't need to be cheapest, ideally shouldn't be crazy expensive.  One concrete contractor quoted $2500.
Also, if you personally have used one of these methods, would you choose that method again?  If not, why not, and which one would you choose instead?


texts: Cast Iron to ABS - exterior of cast iron not smooth - how to stop leak at coupling?

texts:
I have 2" cast iron pipe that is for kitchen waste.  I had to cut out a 32" section of the pipe under the concrete slab of the basement because a wye had failed.

I have replaced the cast iron pipe with ABS and used American Valve couplings to connect the ABS to cast iron.

The only problem is the cast iron pipe is not smooth on the surface.   After almost 50 years of being under the basement slab it has "junk" and rock pieces adhered to its surface.  I have tried to smooth the surface of the pipe but I can't get it 100% smooth.

So the coupling cannot seal perfectly.   I still get a little leak around one of the couplings.

Would anyone have any suggestions as how to stop the leak?

Thanks!


texts: screws, bolts or nails for ground level deck framing

texts:
Following up framing for ground level deck

I'm putting 2x8 for framing of the ground-level deck, it is a floating deck, i.e. not attached to the house. So, 2x8 joists will be sitting around perimeter of the framing.

What's best to use, nails/screws/bolts, for attaching together 2x8 with 2x8 ? There are many different products in hardware store, for instance galvanized nails/screws, lag screws (or bolts?), so I'm not sure what to choose.


texts:
I bought a house in the last year. It was built in the 1950s. I'm not sure if it has been rewired since then but I've seen behind some walls and in the basement that the wiring all appears yellow or white ROMEX. I've checked behind a few outlets and the receptacles are all inside blue plastic housings inside the wall.

I've noticed whenever I plug in a device with a AC to DC converter like a laptop charger or a computer power supply I can hear a soft buzzing sound. I have to put my ear right to the outlet or the room has to be very quiet but I can hear it. It buzzes up and down, not a constant tone sound. I even heard the sound transfer from the wall to the inside of my computers PSU when its plugged in.

Should I be worried? Is this going to start a fire? Or is this normal and shouldn't impact the operation of my devices?


texts:
I am from Bangalore. Today I faced strange issue with LPG Indane gas. Gas cylinder suddenly stopped providing gas supply to stove. Today temp 80 F around the city. It's raining all the week. Cylinder is 2 months old, wait of the cylinder seems it will come at least 1 more month. Note Last refilling came for 4 months.

Neighbors suggested to put the cylinder in heat water for few minutes. When I did gas worked for few minutes then stopped again. So Is my gas really freezed? If Yes how can I avoid such situation?


texts: How to prevent Epoxy from sagging/dripping

texts:
I have to anchor a bolt to concrete, but I can only find 2 component epoxy in "medium viscosity" around here (Brazil). I made a test setup to see how much might drip out and it is much more than i would like. What is the best wait to prevent that?

Its open time is 50 minutes, I took this picture 1 hour after I made the test.


texts: The problem is that there is no water at the outlet when pump is working. When I disconnected 3/4" pipe that was in parallel to 1" pipe, and left 1" pipe only, the water showed up at the outlet and flow was ok? What was wrong with this parallel piping? Please explain that to me.


texts: I have quite a few squeaky floors in my 6-month-old house. The main floor plywood (glued and nailed) got rained on as it was being assembled. My basement is unfinished. I would like to do some repairs from below. I'm thinking that I can find a brace as pictured below (or 1000 of them) and screw them in to address the problem? Sound like a good plan?


texts:
RE: I am installings a basement bath (toilet, shower and sink) Saniflo macerating  pump system.
The house has a 3" vent pipe going from the basement ceiling thru the roof to vent the pump system into.
However, there are 2 vanities on the first floor above the basement using this 3" vent pipe for both their drains and vents.
Question 1:  Since the vanities use the vent as a drain (for about 2 feet) from the first floor (above the basement), can the pump system be workably vented into it.
Question 2:  Is the only possible drawback being the fact that the basement pump vent may be impeded when the vanities are draining?(not asking about any codes) Thanks


texts: How to build a fireplace using an existing chimney?

texts: I am moving into a house that has an existing working chimney and holes cut into the walls in the living room and kitchen for the pipe for a wood stove.  I know the chimney is good because I just bought it and the previous owner used a wood stove last winter.  How could I put a fireplace in rather than a wood stove.  I have a wood stove, but would like to have a fireplace in the living room.  Can I build a fireplace there?


texts:
We have stucco on the exterior of the house. It is a sand/float finish, I believe, and it looks like this.  It is a medium to coarse version of this finish.

How do I go about making this smooth by doing it myself?
Do I have to scrape off the existing stucco or can I actually just put a layer on top of it and fill in the gaps until I have a smooth exterior?