texts:
In remodeling my basement I have so far finished installing R-10 2" XPS insulation against my block walls.  My question is:  How close or how far away from the circuit breaker panel can I place the insulation?  In other words can the XPS foam board go all the way up to the side of the panel, or do I need to allow some room between the panel and the foam board?

My question is due to the fact that foam board is flammable and I wonder if the foam would cause the box and breakers to overheat if the foam board was tight against it.


texts:
Is there any particular reason why there is so much moisture/condensation coming from this AC unit?

Added context: it rained the entire day before this photo was taken, but the unit is located underneath a deck. Furthermore, there is a piece of corrugated metal above the unit to prevent rain from falling on it.


texts: Light switch setup using only white wire. Will it work?

texts:
I'm working on a small cabin.  All black wires are run directly to lights.  The white wires are run to the switches then lights... so each switch has only white wires.

Would the circuit still work?  Why or why not?


texts: Why Does Over Kitchen Sink Fluorescent Use More Watts Than Bulb Says

texts: I have an Efergy Elite unit that measures the watts used for any circuit its connected to. Right now I'm using it to monitor the circuit with our fluorescent light over the kitchen sink and something puzzling is happening. With just this light on, and the clock on the microwave on, it reads 73 watts. If the light is turned off, it measures 3 watts. So, logically the light is using 70 watts. But here's the thing: the bulb is a 24 inch, 20 watt fluorescent. So how could it be using 70 watts? Could it be the ballast? Or, could it be the bulb. I know this is kind of esoteric, but I'm wondering if anyone has encountered this before, and can explain it. I'm considering opening the wall switch up for the light and putting my ammeter on the hot wire to verify the Efergy reading.


texts: Is a floating perimeter slab a good approach for a dirt-floor shed?

texts:
I'm building a 16' x 7' shed and chicken coop in Seattle. I want it to have a dirt floor and be safe from predators crawling underneath. I've been struggling with how best to do the "foundation". I saw a post where someone built one like the picture below. Basically an on-grade footer 6" wide, 6" deep, that the bottom plates get bolted to. I suppose this would float with any frost heave(?) I like the idea of something like this to prevent critters from burrowing under-neath and it seems easy enough to do. I wouldn't do it directly on grade, but a few inches below.

My frost line is 18" deep. If I do this with some 2x8 molds and put a piece of rebar in the molds do I need to worry about frost heave causing problems? After I dig the trench and place the molds should I put down a few inches of gravel before the pour? Would it help to have the molds a few inches above the bottom of the trench and let a bunch of concrete come out underneath? Any better ideas?

A lot of other people seem to do something like this with CMUs, but that seems like it would settle unevenly. I know I'm probably way over-thinking this given its intended purpose, but want it to last.

Thanks,


texts: How to determine sewer line access for a sink install?

texts:
My garage needs a sink. Water is not going to be a problem. Drainage however, no clue. The closest drain is in the adjacent laundry room but unfortunately on the opposite wall (see diagram).

I'm pretty sure we don't have our own septic and it just runs into the sewer. I've inspected some of the blue prints for the home but there is no information about drainage to be found. I don't know where to go from here.Is tapping into the washer drain doable?

I cant run a hose to the outside. I do a lot in the garage and don't want the waste water dumped on the neighbors grass, I'm already killing the vegetation doing that.

Jim Some excellent questions and considerations, thank you:

This may somewhat limit the amounts and types of detergent and the temperature of the discharged water. (trying to avoid major limitations. I don't plan on putting plutonium down there but I would like to keep capable of handling stong detergents and solvents. )

You might have to install a cooling tank. What do you plan to use this sink for? (a lot of different stuff some solvents, paint, cleaning mop, waste from servicing a vehicle. All this in small amounts but large enough to kill the vegetation it would be dumping on. I know this cause I've already killed all the vegetation outside dumping waste water there (hence I'm trying to fix that problem)!!,

Do you have a sink in the laundry room? (no but there is drain for the washing machine)

What is on the other side of the garage wall opposite the water heater? (wifes bedroom, no drian until you get to the other side of her bedroom (where the center of the house is and most the plumbing is located)

Where does the temperature/pressure relief pipe on the water heater terminate (it terminates onto the floor right next to the heater, pathetic I know, correcting that is on my to do list.


texts:
I'm not experienced, and I have poor tools, but it seems like I'm having more trouble than I should have. The last attempt was off-level despite an extra 30 minutes of working with a laser level; I know how to fix that. But each and every time I struggle getting screws into the wall.

Every time I have tried to hang curtains it has been a huge ordeal. If the curtain rod comes with hardware at all, it's usually cheap soft metal that starts stripping even if my bit doesn't slip. So I bought a set of plastic anchors at Lowe's. The first try, the drill bit that came with the anchors was too big and I could pull screw and all out of the wall. So I went a size smaller and ruined several anchors trying to make them fit. I tried self-drilling plastic anchors and had a fun time removing them when they found something solid they couldn't chew through; I'm no longer on good terms with the landlord so I'm not going to ask about steel frame or whatever lest they find a reason to fine me at move-out. Self-drilling metal anchors have a similar problem: there's something even my drill can't handle about 3/4" into my wall and nothing seems to get through it. It's an apartment so I don't care to find a bit that can chew up whatever it is.

I know I've got crappy screwdriver bits, but I don't know how to find better. I'm using what came with my drill and a cheap socket set. The set of screws that came with my anchors look horrible: rather than a nice cross-shaped Philips it's more rounded and the bit slips at the slightest bit of resistance. This is a source of huge frustration.

So I'm tired of buying cheap hardware and tools. What should I be looking for when I am looking for anchors, screws, and bits for hanging a curtain rod? It's hurting my feelings that I fail at this so much.


texts: I have two unconnected drain lines in the kitchen. If I start using one, can I just put a stopper on the other?

texts:
There is a 3/8" drain line by my refrigerator. I hooked up a reverse osmosis filter to the refrigerator which drains through the 3/8" line. Lo and behold, as soon as it started draining, I discovered that water was coming out of another 3/8" drain line under my kitchen sink.

Is it okay to simply put a stopper on the 3/8" drain line under my sink and still have my filter draining through the other line?


texts: Is there a reason I shouldn't use an oil radiator to heat a 1400 sq ft (130 sq m) space? (Why do commercial buildings use electric air heaters?)

texts:
I moved into a studio apartment in a commercial building turned residential. It has this kind of heater—

—which I believe is an electric air heater. It's loud as hell.
Everything I'm reading says oil-filled radiators are far more cost-efficient for larger spaces, despite being slower to the heat the room (which I don't mind).
So I had 2 questions, actually.

Are there any caveats to running 1 or 2 high-capacity oil-filled radiators? Like safety concerns, especially considering the apartment is equipped with a sprinkler system as also shown in the photo. (Is a building fire + oil-filled radiators + cold water potentially extra, extra bad?)

I'm just curious, why would cost-conscious businesses want to use the kinds of heaters pictured, on top of all the noise? Why did commercial buildings opt for them instead of oil-based tech in the first place? I don't imagine quick warmth and comfort for industrial employees would have been the reason.


texts: Gas fireplace insert won't stick to marble fireplace

texts: I have a marble fireplace and 2 years ago my gas fire insert fell out, I tried to stick it back in with heat resistant silicone but it fell back out. It is a metal gas insert any suggestions on what to use to seal it back onto the marble.


texts: How to address diverter pipe length issue during shower remodel?

texts:
I am in the early stages of replacing my bathtub and re-tiling the surrounding walls.  During demolition, I discovered that the home-builder used 2 layers of wallboard for the original tiled shower surround: the deepest layer is just normal sheetrock that you'd find anywhere else in the house, and the outer layer is the green-papered variant that you'd hope to see used for a shower installation.

My best guess as to why there are two layers is the depth of the existing bullnose tile pieces; they appear to be designed to wrap around the edge of the greenboard.  And, in fact that is exactly what the contractor did.

I think that means that the person who installed the plumbing positioned the valve body (and sized the diverter pipe) with the expectation of there being two layers of wallboard.  But my new tile selection does not use deep bullnose end pieces.  Consequently, I think that now if I were to just use one layer of Hardiebacker or Densshield in my remodel, as I had planned, that I would end up with a larger space between the back of my valve knob & the escutcheon (which might not be so bad,) and also a gap between my downspout/diverter and the new tile (which would look ugly, and allow water to get inside the wall).

For the diverter pipe, I guess I have the option of having someone sweat the male threads off the end, and cut off a piece equal in length to the width of (greenboard + sheetrock - densshield).   Should I do that, or just duplicate the use of two layers of wallboard?  (Note that my new tile will have flat bullnose trim, so if I did two layers, I'd have to extend the outer layer all the way to the exterior corner (not shown) and also all the way to the ceiling.)

Note that the bent diverter pipe is soldered in to the valve body.


texts: Can I use a hollow-wall anchor in between two nearby holes from previous anchors?

texts:
Sorry for my OCD, but "it is what it is": I hung a 22 lb. clock with a plastic toggle (drywall), then saw it was too high. I put a new toggle anchor in about 1-1/16"   lower (in other words, very very slightly more than an inch, certainly not less-- but very close to an exact inch).

I was shocked that moving it a mere inch lower had such an extreme effect, normally I hang things casually and am satisfied. But the clock gets a very different look from a small change.

As you guessed, I would love to hang it exactly in the middle, but naturally worry about all these holes, drywall not being steel -or even wood.

Can I somehow (using a drill, large bit, brute force, but carefully to minimize collateral impact) remove the old toggles, fill with drydex (or some form of epoxy), and start from scratch with a new hole (and anchor) exactly in the middle where I want it? Or would leaving the toggles in place be structurally stronger for the wall than attempting that "surgery"?

Or is it just a bad idea, too risky, to try to put a new hole/anchor exactly between my earlier attempts that are only an inch apart?

Is there a solution such as trying to reinforce the wall in that area somehow (thin metal plate, eg, which will be invisible anyway)? Or by using an extra hanger placed above, to take on some of the load from an unstressed section, about two inches higher).

Thanks for any tips, clarifying a bit how strong or weak that drywall is, and what it can stand (and weight it can safely hold) in such a situation.

Thanks again,
Andrew


texts: What are these small flies in my apartment?

texts:
I've been having a problem with flies in my apartment that I can't get rid of. They look like fruit flies from, and behave like them too. They are attracted to food and definitely are too small and slow to be a house fly. I have tried the normal trap of apple cider vinegar and some dish soap, but after three attempts I have yet to get rid of them. They aren't even attracted to the trap because there are never any flies in the solution.

What are these flies and what else can I try to get rid of them?

EDIT: apparently they were fruit flies... Or some other fly that is attracted to apple cider vinegar. The last few times I have tried this the traps have been completely empty, but now all of a sudden it is full of flies. Confusing, but I'm glad it's finally working.


texts: Installing double-pole line-voltage thermostat

texts:
I'm trying to replace a mechanical double pole thermostat with a programmable electronic one.

Existing setup:
The old thermostat model is 859M and it's wiring is pictured below. There's 2 pairs of cables coming out of the wall, two of them with 3 wires each (red, black, white) and another pair with 2 wires each (black and white). All white wires are screwed together, two black wires pictured at the top are hot (I'm assuming these come from the breaker panel). Thermostat has a true Off setting. When it is On (on the lowest temp) there's power on one of the black wires coming out of it, which seems to supply power to a fan in the room (since there's also power on the fan at that point). When thermostat is dialed further above room temperature there's also power on the other black wire coming out of it, and at that point pump is working in the basement supplying hot water to the tubes going through the fan in the room.

New thermostat:
The new one is Aube TH115 and is pictured further below.
Wiring manual suggests using 4 separate wires to connect it, however one of the connecting options I tried failed to turn the heater and fan on, even though the thermostat was powered.
I wonder what is the correct wiring in my case and specifically whether L1 and L2 wires need to be connected to the same incoming hot wire.


texts: The well pump runs constantly. The pressure tank fills but the pump doesn't shut off. What is the correct amount of pressure and how do I check the pressure?


texts: What work is needed in changing a two prong to a three prong outlet?

texts:
My wife and I just moved into a new house that was built in the 1930s. There is a mixture of two prongs and three prongs, but there are no three pronged outlets in the most ideal places (I.e. my desk or bedside). How much work is needed to get a few of the two pronged outlets changed to three pronged outlets?

Also there is an outlet I have never seen before, could someone tell me what it's for?


texts: What are the NEC rules for holes in a wooden top plate?

texts: What are the NEC rules for holes in a wooden wall top plate?  Specifically, how far apart do the holes need to be and what is the max diameter of a hole?  In NEC 300-4 I found "...holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 1 1/4 in. (31.8 mm) from the nearest edge of the wood member."  Is this all there is regarding this topic?  Thanks.


texts:
I've connected up washing machines before but this time I'm confused. I have two lengths of pipe attached to the washing machine, one which is the input water pipe, and one which is the waste/output pipe.

On the wall the pipe at the top on the right has a washer covering the end and is ultimately connected to the cold tap on the sink,  I'm guessing that's where the input water comes from, but I can't see a tap connected to it (without removing the panel under the sink) and the sink adjacent works now. I'm concerned if I remove that water pressure will cover me with water! My only other thought would be the white tap under the sink?

Equally the one on the left is open so I'm guessing that's water coming out of the washing machine. Is that right?


texts:
I want to put an RV hookup on a post next to an RV pad.

Some RVs take 30A/120V, while others take 50A/240V. The main reason for the latter is to let you run two AC units at once, but in our mild climate we never need to use the AC. I just want a neater setup than running an extension cord.

In addition to the 30 outlet, I want to include a 20A convenience recep.

I have seen RV hookup panels with a 30A breaker + recep, and a 20A breaker + recep. I think that means running two separate circuits from the upstream panel, right? I think I can share ground, so I would have 4 conductors total.

Maybe I should put a 30A sub panel at the site, running a single 10/3 cable underground.

What is a good way to set this up?


texts: Well pump with 15A fuses on a 20A circuit?

texts:
I noticed today that my well pump, which is 240V (USA) and is on a 20A dedicated breaker has dual 15A fuses:

In 8 years in this house it has never blown a fuse nor the breaker. So I assume 15A is adequate. (That said, since the 2 fuses are different perhaps at some point one or both has gone out).

The circuit runs:

[Main panel] — [pump fuse + switch box] — [pressure switch] — [pump]

This brings up some related thoughts:

Is there a good reason that the breaker and fuses would be for different current limits?
What's the point of having the fuses anyway? They seem redundant to the breaker.
Ditto in fact for this entire pump switch box.
Should I change the breaker to 15 A?  If there ever is an overcurrent issue it would be more convenient if the breaker tripped rather than a fuse went out.

The fuses are in the same room as the breaker panel which is the main panel in the house.

I'm not necessarily going to change anything, really just trying to understand.

(I'm not sure what the white wire is for, I've never actually seen the pump and don't know if it requires a neutral. Or maybe the pressure switch is 120V using one leg?)


texts: Question about wiring multiple lights in parallel as well a multiple lights in a parallel 3 way

texts:
Images from electrical-online.com
Is the following diagram of multiple lights in parallel valid?
There were some people who claimed it didn't work (they claimed their flow followed the diagram, but who is to know) while another just said it wasn't right.

Also, is the following diagram of multiple lights in a parallel 3-way valid?

I have an electrical book somewhere, but I stumbled onto this site and thought someone might be able to educate me, or at least validate or invalidate the diagrams and hopefully help me and others.
It makes sense to me, but I am only an amateur at wiring.
If no one can answer, I will just test the concept with a scale model of the configuration.


texts: Unidentified pipe and smelly water trickling under slab into basement floor drain

texts:
Our house is in Toronto, Canada and was built in the late 1960's.  We have lived here 5 years and currently rent out the basement suite.  A few days ago, our tenants complained of a sewer smell throughout the appartment.  Apparently it has been progressively getting worse over the course of the last week and a half.  It was very noticeable when I went down to investigate.  The smell appears to be coming from the laundry sink, the floor drain, or both.  Both drains have a noticeable sewer odour if you smell them from a foot away.  I cleaned out the P-trap for the laundry sink and ran some fresh water into it yesterday.  This seems to have improved the overall situation as the larger suite no longer smells, or maybe it is just a fluctuation as apparently there are ok days and bad.

However, the floor drain is baffling.  It is filled with water and now that I think about it, it was filled with water when I looked at it a few years ago.  This time I noticed that there is a pipe, maybe 3/8" in diameter running under the slab into the drain.  There is also a steady trickle of water flowing from the hole beside this pipe, basically under the slab, into the floor drain.  I have no idea what this 3/8" pipe would be, why it would be located where it is, or what the source of the trickling water is.

Perhaps the 3/8" pipe carries domestic water and it has burst, resulting in the trickling water (though I have no idea why a domestic water line would be located there).  Or, maybe the trickling water is ground water that has found its way into the hole made for this pipe, which happens to run into the floor drain.  I have no idea.

I can't clear the floor drain of water fast enough (with a sponge) to look deep into it, but the water level remains relatively consistent - never overflowing the drain.  I can't tell if the water level is maintained by the trickling water source, or if it is coming back up through the main floor drain piping.  When I feel inside the pipe, I can tell that the floor drain piping heads toward the stack a about 4 feet away, but I can't tell if it has a P-trap.  I also sopped up some of the trickling water and found that it had a slight, but noticeable sewer odour.  I feel like the floor drain is the source of the larger odour problem our tenants are having.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on with our basement floor drain?  What could the 3/8" pipe be?  What could be the source of the trickling water?  The water may have been trickling like this below the drain cover for years for all I know.

I have attached a few photos for reference.  Thanks in advance for any help/advice!


texts: How can I tell if these pipes are gas pipes or water pipes?

texts:
I have recently bought a property and am re-doing the kitchen. Whilst stripping the old kitchen the builder has come accross some pipes which I ideally want removed. Have attached images of the pipes. These pipes seem to end up below the staircase and are capped over there. So they dont seem to be going anywhere further. Can someone let me know if these are water or gas pipes and if it safe to tamper with them i.e. cut and cap them at the floor level itself.!

enter image description here


texts: how to attach gutter when there is an additional trim board on fascia?

texts:
This question could be slightly misleading because I am not 100% sure of the terminology.  I am replacing an old gutter - see existing installation below.

My understanding (from this article) is that I should attach gutter flashing underneath the shingles and have it (the flashing) come over the back edge of the gutter.  However, my roof already has a drip edge installed (not gutter flashing), and it also has a small trim board attached to the fascia; this trim board is tucked underneath the drip edge.  Also, the gutter is spaced off of the fascia by a bunch of little spacer blocks - this creates a gap between the gutter and the fascia board.

My question: is there any reason I shouldn't remove the spacer blocks and attach the new gutter directly to the fascia board?  If I did that, I don't think that if I installed gutter flashing it would reach all the way down to the gutter, but considering that the drip edge would be hanging out over the gutter about an inch (the width of the little fascia trim board, plus the drip edge itself), I am wondering if I might be okay without adding actual gutter flashing...

Or, would it be better somehow to attach the gutter such that either the existing drip edge comes over the back edge of the gutter or add a piece of gutter flashing that extends down over the back edge of the gutter?

p.s.  Can you tell me what that trim board on the fascia is called?  That trim goes all the way around my entire roof-line (you can see it on the sloped edge as well), and I bet there's a term for it that I'm unaware of.

Here's a view from the front


texts: Is it safe to use a 10 ft non-UL listed power cord for my dryer

texts:
My mother just purchased a new clothes washer and dryer for my family upon the death of our old top loader which coincided w/the birth of our fourth child (so, this is an emergency! I have diapers to wash!) The cord that came with the dryer is only 5 ft long, and since I need to stack the dryer on top of the washer (they won't fit next to each other) and my outlet is on the floor about three feet to the left of the bottom left of the washer, it is too short. The longest UL listed cord I can find is 6 ft long, which is also too short. The delivery guy said I need 10 ft so that the cord has a little slack in case the unit needs to be moved to clean behind it, etc, without having to unplug it. I found a ten ft cord with the specs I need, but it's not UL listed and I want to know:

Why there is no such thing as a UL listed cord longer than 6 ft? Is it because at this voltage/amperage a too long cord is a fire hazard?

Is it safe to use the 10ft cord despite the lack of a safety rating? What is the risk? Can the risks be mitigated somehow? (Such as frequent inspection/replacement)

If it's not safe, besides moving the outlet which will be difficult and expensive, how can I safely connect the dryer? Can I make (or have made by an electrician) a long cord, say, by increasing the gauge of the wires, to make it safe at the longer length?

The idiot at Sears that Mom bought the dryer from informed me that "most people have an outlet 3 ft up, in the middle of the wall, for their dryer, hence the lack of availability of a long cord" when I asked why they don't carry long cords for dryers that will be stacked so that the terminal block for the appliance is 78" off the ground. Apparently I am the only person on earth who has an older home retro fitted w/electricity so that outlets are not "where they belong." They will not come back and finish the install (they delivered it, but left it uninstalled bc of the cord issue) unless I have a new, unopened cord with a receipt showing a purchase date w/in the last 30 days. If prefer to have Sears do the install I paid for, which is one of the reasons Id like a UL listed cord or to use the one I found on Amazon.

Another idiot at Home Depot tried to sell me an extension cord for a generator, which had the wrong configuration at its female end and an "adapter" to make it work. I rejected this set up, but perhaps there is such an extension cord, with the correct male and female ends and rating?

I'd really love to use my new dryer, and am willing to get creative and spend a moderate amount of money on a solution other than rewiring my laundry room as long as it's SAFE.

Here is the info from the dryer's manual and the type of cord I have (4 prong)


texts: Soft copper Tubing for exterior LP Gas Lines

texts: What are the Copper Pipes Connected to the LP Gas Tanks outside coated with? And is it Code That they have to have that coating on them?


texts: What is the recommended number of teeth for making finish cuts with a miter saw?

texts:
I'm going to be cutting 1x6 oak planks with a miter saw, but I'm not sure what blade to use. I currently have a 24T blade in the saw (which I know for sure I don't want to use), since I usually use it for cutting framing lumber. I've never made fine finish cuts with this miter saw, so I'm not sure if I should use more or less teeth than I would if I was cutting with a table saw.

At this point I'm torn between 60T and 80T, and I'm just not sure which to choose.  As mentioned in This Question, I'm going to be making 45° bevel cuts at one end of each plank. I'm not sure if this is a factor when choosing a blade or not, but it seems like it might make a difference.


texts:
I recently bought a condominium in a large building, built in 2005. It has a single thermostat, and the thermostat works fine. But right next to the thermostat, there is a switch. It looks like an ordinary light switch, and it is positioned where one might find an ordinary light switch. But it governs the thermostat: when it is switched to the "off" position, I get neither hot nor cool air, no matter how I set the thermostat.

The switch is a three-way switch, not a single-pole switch. Every unit in the building has such a switch, and my switch doesn't seem to affect any other units in the building. Here are pictures of the switch and the junction box:

At the switch:

two black wires on one side
two red wires on the other side
nothing connected to the ground screw

In the box:

one red wire going up from the switch, and one red wire going down from the switch
one black wire going up from the switch, and one black wire going down from the switch
one wire that passes through the box without ever being connected to the switch

It is a small condominium, and there is a direct line of sight between the switch and the circuit breaker. At a slow pace, you can walk the distance between the circuit breaker and the switch in under six seconds.

I don't think that I will ever want my switch to be in the "off" position. The thermostat itself has a switch with an "off" position, and I would rather just use that. Can I simply remove the switch, use a wire connector to connect the two wires that are now affixed to the switch, and then cover the opening with a blank faceplate?


texts: I have paint over unsanded drywall compound. What is the best way to fix it?

texts:
I repaired some holes in my bathroom with drywall compound, but didn't sand it.   The painter I hired said he would prepare the walls before painting.  He didn't, and put on two coats of paint.

It looks terrible.  How can I fix this?


texts: How can I stop the boiler from heating the radiators when only hot water is wanted?

texts:
I have Baxi Boiler (model unknown at this precise moment in time) which British Gas have fixed up to a seperate control panel (see image - not our actual panel, image from Google!).

The problem is that even with the Central Heating set to off, when we want hot water, either via the timer or setting it manually to "on", all the radiators heat up.

Is an easy to fix problem? Has the control panel been set up incorrectly, or is this a problem with the boiler?


texts: Should windows be sealed from the outside before the capping is done?

texts: If a regular vinyl window is replaced, and the foam is applied from the inside around the window, should it be also sealed / caulked from the outside before the capping is done?


texts: I’m needing advice on making garden spheres

texts:
I am trying to make garden spheres. First attempt was concrete..no success too much aggregate need a smooth mix. 2nd attempt was cement, much smoother but doesn’t come in quickset so Bunnings staff sold me bondcrete additive, no idea really how to use I just don’t get the whole Picture on what it does and how to add as in water cause if I add too much it ruins my builders mix.
Also builders sand and cement mix I’m only using 3 cups of mix at a time and I’m adding water to the ratio for bondcrete...I get air bubbles which is a sign of weakness in the mix once dried, I just can’t get a happy medium at all it’s stressful.
i just need to know How much water to add to the builders sand and cement Mix- I’m using 3 cups at a time, for a consistent mixture. Then I need The same Formula but Now adding In the bondcrete to help it set quicker. I’m noticing that it crumbles once it has set...and bubbles in mix as it sets.
I’ve never attempted to make anything out of cement or concrete but I really want to make a garden orb/sphere. I don’t want to give up but I read your page a lot and I get great tips so I just thought I’d put it out there see if anyone can advise me.
For my spheres I’m using blowup beach balls-medium and A gym ball-lge, sadly I only have made a 1/2 of a beach ball.


texts: how to achieve a reduction of noise of -60 dB in as little thickness as possible of insulation material?

texts:
I am looking into materials to acoustically insulate a room, and I need to do it in as little thickness of the material as possible.

I found something called Balterio which is a 3 mm thick stuff sold in a roll, looks a bit like aluminum foil. It claims to reduce sound by 22 dB. Which compared to other materials and their thickness required to achieve such a sound reduction, seems a bit unbelievable. Does it really work?

Can I put three layers of this, and achieve 66 dB reduction, which would mean that people speaking on one side of the insulation would be completely inaudible on the other side: normal speech is about 60 dB, minus 66 dB would be below 0 dB - the threshold of hearing - and all that under 1 cm thick? If this stuff was so good, then everyone would be using it in audio recording studios instead of making massive thick complicated walls to reduce by that 60 dB? Where is the catch?

If it doesn't work that way, that what can work, to reduce by 60 dB (for example from 80 dB loud traffic noise to 20 dB at which you can sleep comfortably), in the least possible thickness (certainly not more then 5 cm), at an affordable price?


texts: Replacing an outlet with white black and red wires with a usb outlet with 2 terminals

texts: I have 2 close by outlets that I tried to replace with a new usb outlet. The old outlets have white Black a red wires but the usb outlets have only two terminals.  I replaced the first one, and put the red and the Black together in one terminals (hot) and the white on the other side. The first outlet works fine.  I did the same with the second outlet but this one doesn’t work at all. Seems like it gets no juice. Any suggestions?


texts: Connecting house battery to starter battery - cable sizing considering alternator?

texts:
I have a heavy duty 6 ton truck with 24 volt start batteries. I am building a house battery system, also 24 volts. I want to connect the house battery to the car battery with a switch, so that I can use the house battery in conjunction with starter battery when I use the diesel heater which is connected to the starter battery from factory.

The truck has a big old engine and hence a big old 4kW alternator. I have been warned by a person (not sure his opinion is correct which is why I'm asking here) that if I connect my house battery to the car battery and crank the engine, the voltage spike could burn up the cabling between house and starter battery, unless it is of the same gauge as the cable from alternator to start battery.

Does this sound correct? From my understanding electricity takes the fastest route which is through the thick 70mm² cables going from starter to starter batteries. Cables between starter battery and house battery are AWG 12 and hence the draw on the house batteries when cranking will be less.


texts: Can I ignore the neutral wire in a switch box?

texts:
I'm replacing a smart light switch with a regular rocker switch. It looks like the previous owners had a neutral wire pulled down for the smart switch, making a total of 2 black wires, 1 white (connected to neutral), and 1 bare copper (I assume ground). The rocker switch only has 3 inputs, can I safely ignore the neutral wire?

Also, does it matter which black wire goes in which backstab connector?

Edit, pictures:

wires https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8S3j.jpg
box closeup https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMcck.jpg


texts: Relocating a single household service panel

texts:
I'm moving my electrical service panel to a better location in my basement. When I install the new panel it will, of course, be too far from the existing lines coming into the old panel to reach the new panel.

What would the best, the safest and proper method to
connect longer wiring to the  present wires?
I will get supplies from an electrical supply company.
Not the big box stores.
I can use the old panel as a junction box and it would
remain acceptable.
The new panel will be 2 to 3 feet from old panel.
Don't want to do a sub panel using the old panel.
I will contact the city and get required permit. I just want
to be better informed, by asking my question here, to
communicate my job to them.
It is 100 amp service. (Not upgrading, yet)
I have done many electrical job for myself for decades,
but this one kinda stumps me but I know my still level
can do it. I just need some good advice to get started in
the right direction.


texts: I have a junction box in my bathroom that has two white wires coming from it two black wires two ground wires my light fixture has one black one white and a ground I hook the 2 black into the one come from the fixture same with the other wires. It light won’t work no clue what o did wrong can anyone help


texts: How to balance thermostat settings between zones to maximize efficiency?

texts:
I recently purchased a house so this is my first winter in it.  The house was built in 1939 so most of the house is on a single heating zone using hot water radiated heat.  The radiators are cast iron and recessed into the walls.  However, there is an addition to the house circa early 2000's that uses baseboard hot water radiators.  The addition also seems to be less heat efficient, probably because it has more windows, and has drywall instead of plaster.  The addition is on a separate heat zone from the rest of the house.  They are controlled by two different thermostats.

I'm trying to figure out how to set the thermostats to maximize heat efficiency.  So far I've been assuming that the baseboards are less efficient than the cast iron radiators, and so I've been setting the thermostat for the addition far lower (about 5 degrees) less than the main thermostat.  This basically means that the baseboards in the addition never switch on, and the addition remains cooler than the rest of the house (which is okay - it is a kitchen / dining room which we are okay with being cooler).  The addition just gets heated via heat transfer from the other rooms.

Is this the best approach?  Should I set the addition thermostat to the same temperature?  What other considerations are there in order to balance my zones correctly to maximize energy efficiency?


texts:
I have a desk lamp that takes 2 fluorescent tubes F15 T8.  The current tubes work but I wanted new ones. I just purchased new tubes and they don't work at all.  Any idea what is the difference between the old and the new?

This is the old Tube:

This is the new tube

On closer examination I notice that the pins on the old tube have been 'Tinned' with solder so I have done the same on the new ones.  This results in the pins being a little thicker.

This appears to have solved the problem and the tubes now light!!  I'm not sure if it is the lamp manufacturer that did this or if the pins used to be a little thicker.

The 2 lamps I have are fairly old 60's?  Made by Luxo.


texts: Can I remove/brace two studs to fit a new regular sized breaker box?

texts:
I have an old 11in wide breaker box in my condo and I'm trying to find out if I can remove the two extra studs (Red in drawing) in the wall to fit a regular 14.25in wide newer breaker box. I'm including a drawing of the wall, pictures and videos.

That wall or the studs inside it rather extend 13in higher than the ceiling. The bedroom ceiling is higher by the same amount. The wall is 18in wide.

I wanted to find out what's inside the flat ceiling above those two studs so I made cutouts inside a linen cabinet/shell built between that wall (breaker box wall) and another to the right. I made two cutouts. One on the wall behind the breaker box and one in the ceiling.  I see a lot of wood in the ceiling cut out that makes me think removing those studs is going to be too much trouble if at all possible.

Is there a way to cut a section of those studs (red ones) to fit the new breaker box and then reinforce them with some kind of metal plate brace (see drawing pls) so the weight of whatever is up there gets transfered down the normal way? Is there such a thing? Any other option available?

Video links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JOSHiEkASKI2X27zgBuzSZQ30yvJIA4E/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WybjZAxEy2mUTLmQnbAn4H_AKT_iC5_s/view

Thanks


texts:
We live a New build property our outside lights are pir and are a bit rubbish so the plan is to swap them out for non pir controlled by a switch we want to add in the kitchen Which is the other side of the wall to the FSU in the pic

The pic is the current set up I see in the under stairs cupboard. I added the single socket purely to charge the Dyson we have.
My concern is if I come off the wiring inside the FSU I am going to turn the single socket off as well as the outside lights from the switch in the kitchen.

Helpful advice needed :-)


texts: Halogen to LED conversion on multi-light fixture not working

texts:
I have a fixture with 4 MR16 (two pin) halogen bulbs. If I replace 2 of the halogen bulbs with LED's all bulbs work. If I replace 3 halogen bulbs with LED's all the bulbs act like a strobe light (not flickering because it is a constant on/off pattern). If I replace all halogen bulbs with LED's none of the bulbs work.

The fixture does not have a dimmer.


texts: I just installed a GE dishwasher. When I turned the breaker on, it had no power. The wall and dishwasher both have 3 wires, black (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground). I have 120VAC from ground to hot, but not ground to neutral. Should I not have 120V between any 2 wires?


texts: Is their a Radiator Safe expanding Foam?

texts: So I live in an apartment building and I have a Bug problem, go figure. I have had my place sprayed repeatedly to try and get rid of them, but within a few weeks they're always back, worse than when the cat came back. I have fought with the management office to no avail on fixing the holes in my wall -- in particular, the huge-ass holes left in the dry wall around the radiators going from wall to wall. I have given up.  I can't afford to move.  I want to live better. Is there foam or anything I can use that is heat-resistant and safe to touch a hot metal surface.  The holes are quite large, about 6x5.  They left off the whole bottom corner of dry wall where the radiator is and thought because the cover was there, that was ok.  Any tips, suggestions, or advice?  Please help!


texts: Can I bend CPVC like I do with PVC (heat gun)

texts: I'm working with some CPVC for hot water and now I need to make some adjust for better placement. With PVC I would just heat a bit to remove any possible stress or to put it into a more adequate position, can the same be done with CPVC?


texts: Missing Step & Kickout Flashing / Sinking Front Step (?)

texts:
What's the least intrusive way to install flashing where my roof intersects with a wall? Do I need to tear up a bunch of shingles or can simply attach the flashing with something on top of some roof sealant in the valley? I suppose one option is to install the flashing and find a column's worth of matching shingles... how do I find out what the local codes are specific to this?

As you can see, there are old (?) water stains visible on the sheathing inside the garage, though I've never been able to detect any wetness by touch. I should really cut a hole into the drywalled ceiling and take a look around now that I think of it... Would tracing the current stains with a Sharpie be a means to detect if the stains are growing? Should I replace the sheathing as long as I'm at it?

Unfortunately the previous owners must not have noticed (or cared) that the roofers forgot the flashing. Our inspector caught the issue when we were buying the house but I'm just now getting around to doing something about it a year later.

The image of the wet spot on the siding was taken after some light rain. I'm not sure why it's just that one area.

Also, I can tell that the front step adjacent to this wall has been slowly sinking for a long time based on several factors (images included). The previous owners said they changed the grade of the step (after some water got into the crawlspace) so it would slope away from the house "as it should" but it looks pretty crappy to me. This is probably related to the missing flashing, right? Is there a good DIY fix for this?

And I'm aware of the sag in the rafter (though maybe it's just the fascia - based on that cut in it near the peak?) but I have no idea what to do about it or how to determine how big of a problem it is.
Is it as simple as taking a look around in the ceiling and I'll be able to tell?

Any tips or advice is more than appreciated!

Other Info.:

House built ~30 years ago
Roof replaced 5 years ago
Siding is hardiboard


texts: I live in a basement unit in an old building. There are steam pipes that are running through above my ceiling and these are what's causing the excess heat. Because it's an old building, I'm sure the insulation on these pipes has been degraded. There is a closet in my unit that has the most concentrated heat. Is there some temporary fix (until the insulation of the pipes is checked) to divert the heat to some other location or if there's some sort of heat sink?


texts: How can I find a match for ~100 year old door/window trim?

texts:
Our house is around 100 years old, and during the course of a bathroom demo, the contractor irreparably broke part of the window trim.

Of course, the big box and local lumber stores are completely useless for finding a match. I imagine the design was common and is probably still available somewhere in bulk. I've also seen an HGTV show where a place used tools that follow the curves of a sample piece to create a match.

The problem is, I don't have a clue where to start my search... any ideas?


texts: Can I add a pop up drain stopper to this bathtub?

texts: This piece has been missing since we moved in. Bought one from Home Depot and part that screws in was way too big. Does anyone know what kind I would need? When I went back to Home Depot, it looked like the only thing that might fit this is a drain strainer, but I would rather have a pop up stopper.


texts: What could be causing the main breaker to continually trip?

texts:
I live in a apartment, it has a 100 amp main breaker.  It trips usually everyday at 6 pm and sometimes a couple of times after the first.

The individual breakers don't.

The main breaker gets hot to touch.

The maintenance man has an amp meter.  Checks to see it it getting overloaded.  But the amps never go over 70.  We turn everything on as when it tripped. Now they to the point they say they going to change the breaker box.

This is getting to be a pain in you know where.  I thought there could be a short somewhere, but seems it would trip the individual breaker first.  Those breakers are not even hot.  Mind boggle.


texts: Help identify these protrusions on my leaky roof

texts:
I've got a leaky roof on my 100-year old (new to me) Washington DC rowhouse.  I just finished clearing off a couple of years of decomposed leaf litter from the recessed spot where the leak is, and I'm about to start liberally slopping wetpatch over any and all inconsistencies in the roof that I can find.

The roof has these strange features:

What are they?

The copper-colored thing feels like old, brittle plastic.  Otherwise I have no idea what it is.

The one in the lower part of the frame is peeling up on one side.  It is a little bit flexible.  I could probably peel it off, but I don't know what I'd find underneath.  Likewise with the other.

If I knew what they were, then I might consider removing/replacing them before smearing the wetpatch all over them.  If I leave them, I have a lumpy surface to smear the sealant all over, and if I forget these things are there, I'll be creating surprises for myself/the roofer when I eventually need to replace the roof.

So what are these things and does it make sense to rip them off?


texts: How can remove this window screen to repair it?

texts:
My friend's dog tore through the window screen. I can't seem to get the screen off--it has no pullable tabs and no bottom levers to help pull it out. The house seems to be new and I'm hoping that this isn't one of those windows where you have to replace the WHOLE THING just to get a new screen.

Follow the link to the pictures https://plus.google.com/u/0/115787094028199748730

Even if you could just tell me the model of the window, it would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Will oil stains on my driveway ruin my driveway sealer?

texts:
I just finished power washing my driveway after scrubbing it with Krud Kutter oil remover solvent. The stains are better, but they aren't all the way gone.

Will the presence of these stains prevent the driveway sealer from adhering? I've given a good 5-10 min scrub to each bad spot with a deck brush and Krud Kutter concentrate. Should I go until it's spotless? I just want the sealant to stick!


texts: Re-wire Cat5e RJ11 jacks to RJ45 ethernet

texts:
I just moved into a new (to me, but built in 2008) condo and am assessing the telecom situation. I'd like to get Ethernet connectivity to as much of the unit as possible, for wireless range extenders (or LAN parties...)

It seems like the builder has run an assortment of unterminated wires to a 'telco closet'. There are 3 blue Cat5e cables, one white Cat5e, and one grey Cat5e.

Around the unit there appears to be an RJ11 that terminates the other end of the white cable with four wires:

Plus two RJ11 jacks that look the same, except with a blue cable:

Plus two RJ11 jacks that seem to have some sort of daisy chain situation going on with the blue cables:

Given that we haven't used a phone landline for at least a decade now, I'd like to repurpose the existing Cat5e wiring for Ethernet, installing a router/switch in the closet. I'm trying to figure out answers to the following questions:

Is it against building code or otherwise a bad idea to disable or remove some or all of these RJ11 jacks and replace them with Ethernet, using the underlying Cat5e cables?
Why are some of the RJ11 jacks terminated with a single cable and others daisy-chained?
There are 3 blue wires coming out of the telco closet and 6 blue wires emerging elsewhere in the house (2x single and 2x double). This seems to imply a logically impossible daisy-chaining situation to me, and I've looked very hard and not found any other RJ11 jacks. How could it be wired this way?
What is the best way to test a hypothesis of the actual wiring without potentially frying a device accidentally?
The grey Cat5e doesn't seem to emerge anywhere in the house. What might it be for, e.g. it is connected to a central patch panel somewhere in the building? Is this a common situation?

Slightly related question: How can I convert Cat5e wired sockets to Ethernet?


texts:
I have a single light controlled by a switch in my garage.  It's really pathetic, so I decided to add some shop lights to the same switch.

Upon opening up the light wiring box, I found not 1 but 4 sets of wires coming in.  And I was adding a fifth!  Turns out this circuit continues to various other parts of the house.

Anyway, I added the new 14GA set, and wired up a new outlet to plug my shop lights into.  Plugged them in, and presto!  On they turn.  Success!

Except when I turned the switch off, the old light turned off, but the new shop lights did not.

The current wiring setup is there are 5 sets of ground, all together and connected to the ground screw; 4 sets of black all together with one white; one black going to the light; the remaining white all together, with a patch wire coming from them and going to the light.

I'm somewhat handy with the electricals (at least that's what my electrician said!) - I just can't figure out what I did wrong.


texts:
I'm looking at hanging a TV above a wood stove for my family. There is a heat pipe that comes out of the top of the stove and into the wall. We would like to eliminate using a shelf but if it is necessary it's not a problem. My questions are, how far must a shelf be from that pipe according to code, and also how far away would the TV need to be from the shelf to prevent overheating and damage to the TV?

Thanks!


texts:
I've got a rusty old downpipe on my external brick wall that needs replacing, however the bolts on the brackets don't seem to have useful heads.

See photo:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0HOZkGABny5a01DdEZmUkNXS2c/preview

Any idea how I would get these out without ruining the wall?


texts: How do I handle all the wires for a canless recessed light on 3-way circuit

texts:
I'm adding canless recessed light fixtures to my man cave. Drywall ceiling with loose fill insulation within the trusses and batts over that. These are the lights with the small wiring box connected to the light itself, which snaps into a hole in the ceiling. The wiring box is very small, and contains hot and neutral pigtails with the fittings to insert supply wiring. My problem is that I want one of the lights on a three way switch circuit from the entry door to the exit door. With two 14/3 wires w/ ground, plus the factory pigtails, I can't imagine getting all those wires and wire nuts inside the little black box.
The black box is simply inserted into the hole for the light and rests on the drywall above. The only way I can come up with is to do the three wire wiring in a covered junction box, with a two wire drop from there to the little black box, then insert the whole assembly into the hole and rest it on the drywall. That goes against what I know about junction boxes (accessible and fastened to a structural member). Is there a standard way this is done?


texts:
My sister has an infestation of winged insects eating through the cinderblocks of her basement. Needless to say, this is terrifying. What are they and how do you control them?

These insects bored about 20 holes though cinder block and about 5 holes through the mortar. the holes were about 3/16" in the center, and about 1/2 inch at the opening (creating a funnel shaped opening). Will post more pictures tomorrow.


texts: How can I lengthen my vent stack and are there any negative effects in doing so?

texts:
I have observed that when we receive a lot of snow here in Ontario, at least one of the drain vents on my roof is covered by snow.  While after one winter in the house I have not yet observed any ill-effects from this, I know it can cause some problems that I'd like to proactively avoid. I also have a belly in my main sewer that has caused a number of backups (see this thread) so I'm trying to prevent anything that might make this worse.

The colour of the vent is black so I am assuming it is ABS.

Can I use a coupling and some ABS pipe to extend it a couple of inches, or is there a more preferred/correct method of doing this?


texts:
For some low voltage applications, I'm trying to use "crimped" connections. Specifically, I'm trying to use yellow terminals with 12 AWG stranded wire. I got a cheap color-coded ratcheting crimper for that.

The crimp joints this makes don't hold, it takes barely no force to pull the wire out. I figure it would work fine if it was 10 AWG instead, as there is a considerable difference between the 10 and 12.

Same crimper works fine crimping 18 AWG into red terminals.

So, my questions are:

can I pad the wire that goes in with extra strands to make it same size as 10?
should the crimper be adjustable not just to the size of the terminal, but also to the gauge of the wire (mine isn't)?


texts: Wire type coming directly into outdoor box from indoors

texts:
I need to rewire an outdoor box for camera + light and I will have the cable go from inside the house directly into the box outside. IOW, the point where it exits the house will be directly the point where it enters the box, so the cable will not be exposed outside. The box is weather proof, ie should not leak because it has a gasket.

Do I still need to use outdoor grade cable or can I just use regular Romex NM?


texts:
I am refurbishing a small cabinet and the door has this type of hinge. However, the peg was broken off of one of them and I can't seem to find a replacement.
What is this type of hinge called?


texts: How to remove in wall speaker grill/frame

texts:
I tried all the suggestions in the following question to no avail (no accepted answer)
How do I remove a ceiling speaker cover?
I also watched several YT videos that so far haven't provided any additional insight.
How do I remove the following speaker grill and/or frame so that I can cleanly paint the walls? We just moved in to a new house (built 2014), I have no manuals and what I have tried so far hasn't worked (putty knife, paper clip equivalent, etc.).
Any help would be greatly appreciated!


texts:
Hopefully this is okay to ask here -

I stored my pool for the winter last year and have just got it out and filled up about halfway (3,000 of 6,000 gallons).

I have found 3 pinhole leaks as I have been walking around the pool every few hours as the water level increases.
I have since patched these and the water has stopped.

Let's just say I hadn't discovered this as its so slow to escape.
Can something like this just tear if people are in the pool playing or am I over thinking this based on the size of it?

I am probably going to retire the pool after this season but so far, this appears to be the only noticeable issues.

Just not sure what 6,000 gallons of water can do on a hole like this.
Patches seem to be a common thing so I assume they are meant to help solve problems like this.

Just looking for some reassurance I suppose.


texts: Can I repair this crack in my sprinkler backflow preventer?

texts:
I have a crack in one part of my sprinkler backflow preventer/vacuum breaker. It looks a lot like this:

Can I re-seal this crack? Or do I have to buy a whole new assembly?


texts: What size extension cord should I use for multiple computers?

texts:
We're hosting a LAN party (several computers, 50+) and I had some questions about power draw; I hope this is the right place to ask.

Currently, we're assuming each PC will draw an average of 3.5 amps. We have several 20amp circuits, so we're putting 5 PCs on each 20amp circuit.

How concerned should we be with extension cord quality? Our plan is to run two 16/3 cables from each circuit, and run about 3 PCs per cord. Should there be any issues with this? Would going with 14/3 cables really be any better?

We considered going with single 12/3 cables and running all 5/6 PCs from that single cord... but given that the max listed amperage on these is 15A, that doesn't give us the amount of power consumption we're going to require.


texts: Drywall anchor can't fully penetrate drywall

texts: I'm in a new apartment (built 1 year ago) and I am trying to hang a wall mirror (about 50-ish pounds). I've tried 2 different sizes of drywall anchors but the anchors only reach about 1/2inch into the wall before resistance pushes them back out. I'm not on any studs and I can't see anything in the wall that could be causing the issue. It's a shared wall with one of the building's stairwells. The only thing I can think of is there may be some sort of reinforcement behind the drywall for the stairwell. Has anyone encountered this problem before or know how to solve the problem? Maybe a drill could put screws in the wall and hold just as well since the anchors don't seem to be useful in this situation?


texts: Is it required for effectiveness to stretch interior window film?

texts:
Thanks in advance! Please let me know if I should provide more specific information, or if this is covered somewhere else.

Short version:

I am using a Frost King window insulation kit on a window. Can I skip the hairdryer step and still get a good amount of insulating effect?

Long version:

I am using a Frost King window insulation kit on a window. The way these work is that you tape a plastic sheet to your window frame (or some surface surrounding the window), then use a hairdryer on the plastic sheet to pull it taut.

My window frame is very bumpy (not a nice flat surface for me to stick the sheet onto), plus there is a window air conditioning unit sticking out in the middle (I can't take it out). Unless I want to cut the included plastic sheet into a more complex shape, the hairdryer step described above causes the plastic sheet to pull away from the tape's contact surface as it is drawn taut.

So my question is simple: Can I just skip the hairdryer step if I don't care what the end product looks like, or is the hairdryer step necessary to produce the insulating effect? Will I still get some benefit if I skip the hairdryer step?


texts: What do I need to do to clean/restore these floor tiles?

texts: We have a porch on a 1930s property in the UK which has red tiles on the floor. I believe they are original and in good need of a clean up and maybe some additional work. What do I need to do to get them looking nice?


texts:
Releated to: Building on top of 3/4'' plywood subfloor

(link for impatient: http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/12/21/how-to-make-a-relatively-sweet-shower-cheap/)

I would like to know how high the shower pan curb should be. I have read somewhere that 2" is the minimum while a lot of examples (Lowes,HD, tile stores) have some about 6".

So, my question: is there a rule? If so how high?

Bonus points There must be some sort of calculation I can do for this:

amount of water coming out of standard shower
volume of shower pan
amount of water being drained

yields how long it would take to overflow the shower pan.

Any pointers on this?


texts:
Can holes in wood studs that previously held lag bolts be re-used with lag bolts of the same diameter or will this not hold safely?

More detail:
I have a piece of fitness equipment mounted to wood studs in my garage. It needs to support ~350lbs of weight. The equipment needs to be removed and replaced. Can the replacement go back into the same holes or will new ones need to be drilled? I cannot use larger diameter lag bolts since they will not fit through the mounting holes on the fitness equipment.

Possibly irrelevant:
It is a Rogue 3x3 Strip used to hold a Matador lite dip station. Since the load is very heavy, I used poplar boards as stringers to distribute the load across 3 studs. The strip has 4 holes for lag bolts so a total of 12 lag bolts were used. Unfortunately, one of the lag bolts broke off in the wall as it was being tightened. It was in the middle, directly anchoring the strip. In order to get it out, I'm pretty sure I need to remove everything to gain access to the hole and extract it.


texts: Before I close this up, is this legit location for light at bottom of stairs? Yes, switch at top and bottom, and light at top as well. Through some quirk of symmetry, this can light (of 12 total), ended up HERE, and lines up with the other cans in a row (not pictured. And yes, that is an emergency light, not required per local code but I be losing power in ice storms. I see a lot about how many candle feet, etc...the stairway has to be illuminated, but nothing about how many inches/feet the light source has to be positioned in relation to the top and bottom. The top one is almost directly over the top step. Bottom one, it does the job. I'd hate to add another can there, it will look odd, but I got final coming up soon else have to pull a new permit under 2017, and I'll take an odd-placed can versus re-permitting as a new build.


texts: Is primer required for fresh knockdown texture?

texts: I have freshly sprayed knockdown textured ceilings. I can not figure out if priming is necessary before coating it with flat white ceiling paint. Some people say it is okay to just paint it, some say it needs to be primed. Could someone clarify it for me?


texts: The extension to my house is built with hollow brick elements and I have a hole on one of them that I'd like to plug and mortar over. Since it's hollow in the back of the hole inside the element, I need to provide some backing. I thought maybe insulation foam (e.g. "Great Stuff"). What is the best to use?


texts: What is the proper way to leave unused nonmetallic sheathed cable inside walls or ceilings?

texts:
The question pretty much sums it up. I nailed through a live wire in my ceiling. Rather than splice it and install a jbox, I ran a new run to the outlet. However, I took a slightly different route that did not require any additional cuts into the drywall.

I will be leaving the dead run in the ceiling. Are there any guidelines or code I need to follow to still be within compliance? For example, do a cut the wire ends clean?  Tape them up and label them? Also, do I need to remove the dead wire from the outlet box or can that be cut and/or taped up?


texts: Is operating a 66' boom lift something that a non-construction type homeowner could likely manage?

texts:
I'm wanting to mount a radio receiver (for internet access) to a really tall tree in my yard. I don't have a death wish so climbing it with tools is a non-starter.

So I've been thinking about renting a boom lift (specifically a Genie / S-65 or JLG / 660SJ) from one of those construction rental places. This should get me high enough to bolt the sucker to the tree, if I max out the reach of it.

What has me nervous is that I've never worked heavy equipment bigger than my riding lawn mower. I'm concerned that I'm going to be able to operate that sucker without some kind of extensive training or someone who knows what they are doing nearby. Clearly these machines can be extremely dangerous if used incorrectly.

Some mitigating factors are that I will be a minimum of 80 feet from any power lines and the ground is very level around the job site. Also, I'm pretty nervous about heights so you can be sure that I am going to be totally obsessive about following any safety precautions. A complicating factors is that I'd probably need to use the full extended height of the equipment.

I'd like to hear from someone who either as a pro or amateur has operated equipment similar to this as to whether it is something I could safely do with a quick training by the rental company person or by reading the manual?


texts: How can I use a WeMo controller on a non-standard outlet?

texts: I have an older A/C unit that uses a 6-15p plug. I want to be able to remotely control the unit with a WeMo, but it uses a 5-15r receptacle and plug. The A/C unit says its rated for 208V, and I believe the WeMo is able to support this much as well. How can I best convert the plugs to accommodate the WeMo? I'm thinking of something like this that the WeMo will plug into, that can then be plugged into the wall. What can I put between the 6-15p and the WeMo though?


texts: Fixing holes in drywall using glue patches

texts: Is it ok to use glue patches to fix tiny holes in a drywall? I'm not sure if they will dry out or something. It's look ok to me right now and was very quick and easy to do. They're some kind of adhesive gum that you're able to shape.


texts: 120v house equipment with 240v generator question

texts:
Tornado took out power around here for a good while. Parents aren't here and I'm stuck with the task of hooking up a generator. I'm not savvy with this stuff very much at all.

Here's the issue. The connection coming out of the house is L14-30P. The generator has L14-30R. In my head we just need a 30a cable between the two.

The only stuff we have right now is an adapter L14-30P to L14-20R. My dad says this adapter is needed because it puts the voltage down to 120v. It's literally just an adapter. He says at 240v it would fry our equipment and appliances in the house. Doesn't make sense to me to have this adapter, then have a L14-20P to L14-30R cord connected between the adapter and the house. Seems like an extra useless step right?

I'm not worried about breaker positioning and all that. I just need to make sure I have the cords done properly between the generator and the house. I've got the rest done.

Feel free to correct everything that is incorrect about what I just stated, logic and all.

Here is the front of the generator :

https://imgur.com/a/4SzrEbm
https://imgur.com/a/Emj9TKR


texts: Is it possible to get a accurate assessment of a roof without ripping it off?

texts:
I just bought a house, and knew it needed a new roof because of its age. I had a roofing company come out and inspect it. The inspector spent a couple of hours standing on the roof and going through my attic.  He showed me pictures of the inside attic meticulously showing me pictures of small nail punctures and such and explaining to my wife and what this meant etc. He eventually gave us a price of the job guaranteeing that this would absolutely not change. We were concerned about any surprises after the roof comes off. Long story short day of the job the foreman calls and says the plywood is 3/8" and is too thin we need to replace all the decking. And not only that it had  large baseball sized holes in places. Our price went up 10k and we felt mislead. They kept pushing back telling us no one has x-ray vision so it was impossible to understand these conditions. We of course felt mislead.

Question is, could they have been able to detect the thickness of the decking beforehand?  And those craters in the plywood, could he have seen it in the attic?


texts: Fan comes on but the air conditioner does not

texts: During hot days when the air conditioner is on a lot it comes to a point in the evening when the air conditioner shuts down and the fan (from furnace) stays on. This will go on all night as the house gets hotter. Thermostat will be set at 72 and the temperature in the house will be 75. If I turn the thermostat up to 76 the fan will go off. If I wait a while and turn it back down past the temperature of the house the air conditioner will kick back on for a while. Shouldn’t the air conditioner stay on until the house temperature gets to the temperature off the thermostat


texts: Can I remove 2 GFCI breakers and install a tandem if the box accepts a tandem?

texts: I want to add a 220v 20 amp breaker to run a mini split A/c. I only have 1 space in the box left. I see there are other tandem switches in there. I also see 2 regular breakers with blue switches. I looked up and see that they are most likely GFCI breakers. I also see that they don't seem to make a tandem GFCI. So, can I install a tandem breaker, remove the 2 gfci breakers, and install gfci outlets in the wet locations? That would give me the 1 slot I need.


texts: Can I use four-wire cable from the panel to create a two-circuit duplex outlet?

texts:
I am planning on adding a server to one of the closets in my house. In order to do that I need to run electrical to the location of the server. For severs they recommend having 2 independent lines of power, for redundancy, that way if one breaker trips the server won't go down. The server has 2 power supplies with independent cords. I am wondering if I can do a single 240v run from my breaker box to the location of the server and then separate the 240 to 120 and into 2 outlets, also can I run it into 2 outlet with 2 plugs, and would there be any code violations?
This is what I'm thinking, except this is all a 4-wire cable instead of 4 separate wires.


texts: Strengthening existing 2x4 joists to create a mini attic

texts:
Between the first and second floor of a friend's house he has about 4' of dead space that he wants me to help convert into storage (this is in San Francisco, so every square foot counts!).  He got the idea from a similar space in my house.

Currently the ceiling of the first floor consists of 16" o.c. 2x4s, generally running across a span of about 10' for each room.

I do not want to rip out and replace all of the ceilings in the first floor, so my plan is to strengthen the 2x4s in some way and add either 1/2" or 3/4" flooring so that I can put some crates up there and leave "crawlways" to get around.

Here are the solutions I've come up with and my thoughts on them (I'm not a builder, but I've built lots of ad-hoc structures and so far nobody has died..   :) ).  I should also mention that I plan on using screws instead of nails everywhere, so hopefully that improves stiffening.

Just put 1/2" flooring on the 2x4s.  I think this would probably work for a little while - I had a house many years ago that had standing attic space that was only on top of 2x4 joists, though I recognize that 2x4s really shouldn't be used for a 10' span, even for an attic.
Sister the 2x4s with another 2x4.  I believe this only improves the span by about 25%, but that gets us within a foot or so of 10'
Sister the 2x4s with 2x6s and put the floor on top of that.  This should be strong enough, but unfortunately the way things are laid out that would take a lot of extra work with making everything fit properly (because of the location of stringers and where the floor would go and working around a pipe on one side and etc.. etc..)

So those were my options.  I kind of felt like 1&2 might work but would be on the weaker side, and 3 would definitely work but create a bunch of labor.  Ideally something in between the two would be enough for handling attic storage that was 4 feet high and that's when I thought of this crackpot idea:

Place a new set of 2x4s on their side going across (90 degrees to) the current 2x4s.  I know that 2x4s aren't that great on their side, but this only adds 1.75" to height, like the sistered 2x6s would, and with it all screwed together, wouldn't this add a decent amount of stiffness with the flooring on top?  But I can't quite figure out how to guesstimate how much strength this will really win me and if it beats #2 above.  I don't want to put the 2x4s vertically on top of the other 2x4s, because there's only so much space in there..

Any thoughts?

If the answer is to get a structural engineer, then that's out of their budget, so we'll just probably be forced to put in the 2x6s, though I bet the 2x4s or sistered 2x4s would actually be enough for such a low attic space...


texts: Does the ground pigtail to the jbox need to match the largest circuit?

texts:
In California, I have a metal jbox and, in it, there is a junction for a 10/2 NM and a 14/2.
These have different size ground conductors.

Does the code require a specific size ground conductor to pigtail to the metal box?

It stands to reason in my mind that I would use the largest circuit ground conductor size but I am looking any code specifics.


texts: Fire hazard, Need to turn off power to one out of two electric baseboard heaters

texts:
I have a difficult situation, there is a need to turn the heater permanently off without my father/home owner 'knowing' I did this. On a daily basis he tosses paper products in front of an electric baseboard heater, that is turned up to 70* and is around 160*+ heat emanating. I am terrified of a fire when I go to work or am asleep.
There is two heaters in the kitchen area, that are heating the kitchen + Living Room area, where a single baseboard heater that no longer works.
So if I somehow achieved shutting off the heater of concern, one remaining heater would be heating two rooms and that entire end of the house.

I have read here one might disconnect, then cap off wires. Or shutting off thermostat. And for the circuit breaker, I would "guess" there is one for at least both heaters. So these things are not a choice.

(I would like to mention am an adult. No need for unnecessary concern in to this matter further than just any ideas one might have!)

Thank you.


texts:
I have zero home improvement/DIY experience. I got someone recently to carry out an unrelated repair on my porch, and he offered additionally to apply  sealant to the exterior porch window frames, as some patches were exposed to rain as the sealant seemed to have pealed.

He scraped off what was there and said he would apply mastic, and it looked fine at first. However it didn't dry and after a few days had bunched up (as below). (I asked him to come back but have given up there). I assume he used a product intended for indoor use as the vertical sections look ok but the horizontal sections look like this (i.e. similar to how it was before):

Should I scrape off what he applied and put on some caulk? It being December and me being in London, it's been raining, so I assume I'd be locking in some moisture.

Or better to wait? It would have been rained on a fair bit more by then, but perhaps after a dry spell in the summer when the wood's hopefully had time to dry out a little?

(Perhaps I should remove the top few millimetres of wood but don't have the confidence to do that especially as the pane of glass is a kind no longer supplied.)


texts: How can I replace an air conditioning thermostat?

texts:
I have ducted air conditioner with a control panel in both bedrooms and the living area that only has a thermostat.  Is it possible to replace each of these easily (and inexpensively) with a timer to switch off and on at certain times?

It's a Siemens model if that helps but not permitted to post pictures yet!

Edit: A couple more questions:

Can I buy from the US (thinking Amazon as I'm visiting next week) if I'm in a 220V country or would I have to buy locally?
Any recommendations for a replacement thermostat? Can you pretty much buy any one with the desired features and it will be compatible?


texts: How do I find doors of unorthodox sizes?

texts:
I have three doorways in close proximity to one another, and I want to replace the doors in them. Aside from one door being completely absent, the other two have numerous problems, including gaps at the top, damage, rubbing with the frame, and stripped holes. The problem is that the doors are all unusual sizes: 29.5", 30.5", and 31". The two smaller doors are at opposite ends of a small hallway with little room to expand the doorway, so while expanding the doorway may be an option, it will be difficult and limited.

How can I find doors that will fit these doorways, or otherwise install new doors in their place?


texts: Making a Solar Power Battery Backup Unit

texts:
Ok, so this is a small battery backup unit.

I want to just start small and see if I can get the idea working.

I'll buy this 20 watt solar panel with charge control

http://www.amazon.com/20W-12V-Solar-System-Polycrystalline/dp/B00PFGP0EA/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1455399393&sr=8-14&keywords=12v+solar+panel

Then hook that directly up to a 12v 18ah sla or a 12v 35ah sla battery.

Then buy this converter to hook up things like lights, tv's, etc

http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Outlets-Inverter-Battery-Cigarette/dp/B007SLDDHQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1455404843&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+power+inverter

Am I missing anything or is it that simple?

Also, to get a 12 volt cigarette lighter socket, could I just wire a simple cig socket adapter directly to the battery or should I use some sort of fuse and then wire this to the fuse:

And how do I monitor battery power so I don't kill the battery?


texts: What dimensions does the base need to be for a standing post?

texts:
I came across this picture and want to build a few. I want to do 10' 4x4 posts but don't know what the dimensions of the base should be to support the post. Any suggestions?

The boxes will be filled with rocks and used to support string lights. Here's a rough sketch of how the string lights will be hung:


texts: Lighting from the right or left of my desk?

texts:
I heard that some place their desks (for either reading, writing, or using computers) with lighting coming from the left. Is there some scientific foundation for that? Does that affect vision?

How should one place lighting for reading, writing or using computers? Thanks.


texts:
I want to buy or make a nice night random-waves light projector at home.
The idea is from the movie "Blade Runner 2049":

I searched on sale, but I did not find anything like this.
There are many more primitive goods.
There is another option - some Ultra High Definition Home Theater Projector. But it is practically inconvenient...

Well, this is a difficult task. Of course, it is almost impossible to create an effect, looks like a professional Hollywood movie.

But today I've seen the other very good idea in the trailer to the "The Greatest Showman" movie :)
(Rotation of the cylinder with holes around the candle).

Such a simple trick will never looks like the trailer. But in any case it's a useful and a good idea.

Any ideas how the ideas of the "ocean reflections" waves and a real natural fire can be made on practice?


texts: What is the appropriate way to seal an opening in a pressurized tube around an inserted object?

texts:
I have a loop consisting of approximately 6' of 3/8" ID tubing, pressurized with a pump running at approximately 1 GPM.  I would like to add a few temperature sensors into the loop to read the water temperature at varying points.  Reading the temperature of the exterior of the tube will provide sub-optimal accuracy.  Fittings with built in thermometers are available, but expensive in quantity and would require the addition of a regulator to step down voltage in my application adding complexity and more cost.

The best way I can figure to do this is to buy a fitting like this, and then insert the sensor of a thermometer (such as this) into the reduced opening and then seal around it.  However, I suspect quite a bit of wiggle room around the sensor and fear that silicone will blister and eventually leak under the pressure.  And since there is a sensor line going into the opening I cannot simply tape over the silicone to resist the blistering.

This application requires reliability in the seal for a minimum of 3 years.  The seal can be permanent; there will never be a need to remove the thermometer from the fitting or line.  The loop will be filled with distilled water at temperatures ranging from 5C to 60C and the seal must hold at both extremes.


texts: Fireplace sensor that is not a thermocouple or a thermopile

texts:
My MB42 fireplace with digital fireplace burner control (SIT Proflame) will not stay on after starting. It shuts off many times, and only on a 6th try or so, will stay on.

The controller has a single wire connection to the "pilot flame sensor."

I suspect the sensor, and want to replace it.

However, I am confused by this sensor, as it has just one lead. Watching Fire Place repair videos I learned that there are thermocouple and thermopile sensors, but mine seems to be neither.

It does not have the two leads of the thermopile, nor the single tube of the thermocouple.It just has a single connection to CN4 on the controller.

What is this single-wire flame sensor called? It's the one on the left. The one on the middle looks similar, but is slightly wider and provides the spark.

A little more on the symptoms: when just started, will shut off repeatedly. Sometimes before the main burner switches on, but sometimes when main burner is already on.

Once the main burner has been on for at least a minute, it will stay on.


texts: As a beginner woodworker, should I buy a table saw or a band saw?

texts:
I'm just getting into woodworking and don't have any equipment, not even a bench. As a beginner looking to maybe make anything from small boxes to light furniture, should I buy a table saw or a band saw? I'm looking to spend around £100...

It needs to be controllable enough to cut dovetails, etc but this would also be my only saw.


texts: Toilet flushes slowly, water comes all the way up, then water goes low, shower drains slow, but sink is fine

texts: When flushing my toilet the water comes all the way to the rim, sometimes it sits then drains slowly, sometimes I have to plunger it or sometimes it flushes ok but then the water goes way down to the siphon part of the toilet. I also have a shower in same bathroom that has started backing up and then slowly drains out. But the sink in same bathroom drains fine but all drains gurgle. I have a septic system 1500 gal tank emptied in 2016 had five people living here for 2 1/2 years only two now for a year. Looked in my septic tank and when toilet flushed or ran water I could barely hear a trickle coming from house. Stack, clog or main pipe clog?


texts: Why did my febco backflow preventer fail?

texts:
I'm working as a handyman for a non-profit, and they have an in-ground irrigation system that has been off for a while because "there was a geyser."

I successfully determined that the geyser was water shooting out of the top of the backflow preventer. It had blasted the bell off the top, destroying the guts of the poor thing.

Unfortunately, I'm very unfamiliar with in-ground irrigation systems (I didn't even know what a backflow preventer was until last week). So I'm concerned that if I rebuild the guts of the valve, it may also be destroyed by whatever caused the problem in the first place.

So what kinds of things do I need to check for to make sure that the new backflow preventer isn't similarly disemboweled? Is this just a thing that happens when they get old? Is there something else farther down in the system that is creating a bad situation?

My hope is that the original failed because it froze too hard, and this one will last so long as I can keep it from freezing. BUT we're in central Texas... it rarely freezes, let alone very hard.


texts: Can a 20 amp circuit have a 14 gauge pigtail directly to one receptacle?

texts:
I'm rewiring a a small part of a wall and I'm confused about a combination of the NEC and the products that I'm able to find.

I'm working on a 20 amp circuit (with 12g wire of course).  I'm connecting 4 receptacles each in their own box, 15 amp receptacles for normalcy.  But the terminals don't seem to accept 12g wire, even on the screws.  My first reaction was to make pigtails 14g pigtails, so that the 14g tap goes directly to the receptacle and is not used to feed the rest of the circuit.  12g in the box, 12g out of the box, and 14g inside the box only.

Is that type of splice allowed, or should I look harder for a 15 amp outlet that can more easily accept 12g wire?


texts: My circular old work electrical box is too small for the light fixture mounting bracket

texts:
I purchased some flush mount light fixtures to install in each of the bedrooms in my house. Originally I picked up some circular 4" old work electrical boxes (the ones with the "flags") but discovered that those are not mean to bear weight (the weight of each fixture is about 5lbs). I found the "right" circular old work electrical box which had a metal support and said it supported up to 10lbs, so I bought them and installed them. I did notice that they were 3 1/2" but I didn't think anything of it.

Now I'm trying to install the mounting bracket for the light fixture and it is too wide for these boxes... The outer screws which must go in the outer holes are touching the plastic of the box itself. I feel like I'm screwed now. If they make bigger electrical boxes, I could buy them, but I already have three 3 1/2" holes in my ceiling so removing them and expanding the holes will be a nightmare. These fixtures are meant to match others that I was able to install in original electrical boxes without a problem, so I really don't want to change them.

This is the light fixture:

This is the electrical box:

And here's the problem:

Any help is appreciated.

Edit: I just tried a 4" round old work box (with the "flags") and it has the exact same problem... Is there a different type of box that I need to be using for this? How would you make this work in an "old work" style situation (E.g. I have a 3.5" hole in the center of my ceiling)?


texts: While replacing a GFCI I find it has 2 circuits running into it. New GFCI trips

texts:
During a house sale, inspector pointed out the GFCI at the front of my garage was failing his tester.  The trip light was always on but it still fed power.

Skip to the end if this is too wordy, but I wanted to cover everything I have verified so far.

While replacing it myself, I am flipping off breakers to find the one for it (key for later on) as I don't have all labeled on the panel yet.  The new GFCI constantly trips.  I remove the load wires and the GFCI is now good.  The load runs to an outside outlet down the same stud gap which I course want protected as well.  I fiddle with the outside receptacle and replace it as it was old and rusty.  Nope, GFCI still trips.  The outside receptacle has two lines and I can't tell which runs to the GFCI and which runs further down (or so I thought it was down) so I unhook one and try it.  The GFCI and outlet now work.  So what did I unhook?

Checking around the house, I find several kitchen/dining/deck lights not working.  Not good.

Decide to bypass the GFCI and just pigtail the lines together.  Now all the lights are working.  About to give up for the night when I notice on the breaker box that I had left one of the others off from the initial flip testing.  That one is labeled with kitchen & dining lights and GFCI.

After some more flipping with the unnoticed breaker, I find out that the line & load pairs to the GFCI were actually line & line, 120V on each when all breaker switches are on.  So the outside receptacle was fine all along but it's not below the GFCI on either circuit.

That's not normal?  What would be the purpose of doing that? I'll verify tomorrow, but it would also seem that both lines terminate at the GFCI.  Apparently the old GFCI was able to handle this (somewhat) and the new one doesn't?  There's no indication on the old one that it was double poled, it has the same line/load instructions on the back that every other one I have installed.


texts: How to reverse a door's opening direction

texts:
I found a previous question which is similar to this. However, that person was asking about having the door open outward in the opposite direction. I had initially thought about doing as much, but realized that at some point or another, someone was going to get a facefull of door if I did so.

So, I want the door to continue to open inward, but swing left to right instead of right to left. I'm somewhat limited in the questions I can answer because said door is about 2 hours away, so I can't say if it's on hung hinges or whatever. Any suggestions?


texts: Why is my water heater's relief valve popping?

texts:
I haven't seen it, but there is water on the floor and also on top of a hose that is rolled up next to the water heater.

It is a A.O.Smith electric ECS 40 200. Both upper and lower thermostats are set to 120°, but water temp from the tap is 149° and jumps back and forth to 151° and 149°. The unit is 12 yrs old.

Should I start with replacing the thermostats?


texts: Does electrical outlet in man made quartz backsplash require box extender by code?

texts:
I have a 3/4" thick man made quartz backsplash in the kitchen.  The electrical box cut outs are not quite big enough for the box extender.  The electrician says I need the box extender and that the backsplash guys often have to trim their installs for them to fit.  The backsplash guy says he has done 100s of houses and never had to trim a cut out for an electrician.
Is this a code requirement if so what is the idea behind the code?  Is it a fire concern since the box could have an air gap between the backsplash and the drywall.  Could I fill that with a fiber reinforced drywall setting compound?
There are two 3 gang cut outs in this installation.  I tried a silicon carbide grinding stone in a 1/4" 20k rpm air grinder which did very little material removal.  I also tried a rotozip XB-FTC1 which also did very little.
The box behind the quartz backsplash is a grey electrical box.  The electrican has tried to use the Arlington BE-3 which when forced into the hole is distorted in the horizontal direction as the cut out is not wide enough to accomodate the box extender.
I did have the backsplash guy come out and I had an angle grinder with a 3 3/8" blade.  He couldn't think of what tools he could use to do it so he gave my tool a try.  The blade did a good job cutting into the sides but then the backsplash guy wasn't sure how to safely cleanup the corners so he said he'd think about what tools he could use.  He also marked up the backsplash a bit with the grinder blade protector and gashed the quartz a bit outside of his cut which is hopefully still going to be hidden by the cover plate.
Given the electrical code issue pointed out below by NoSparksPlease what should I do?  I could try the XB-FTC1 in my 30k dewalt cut out tool but given the very small amount of material that was coming off via the die grinder I think it would take hours.  Any tool recommendations to cleanup the corners where the angle grinder couldn't get without over cutting the hole?
I'll re-post the hole cleanup / recommendation question separately as I've received the code question answer.


texts: Canexel warping - How to evaluate the risk, cost of maintenance and cost of replacement?

texts:
Here's the situation, we are interested into buying this home for our new family but there seems to be an issue with the siding. It's hard for me to evaluate the risk of it. I mean, should I negotiate down the price with the sellers? Does this hide something I'd better assert before buying? Is this normal?:

In other words, what would be your course of action base on those photos? The house has been built in 2003. The only thing i'm sure of is that I'll need to redo the sealing (this is fine by me).

Thanks


texts: Can I pour concrete if it's raining out?

texts:
I have 6 bags of concrete that I need to mix and pour for 2 deck piers.
It's raining lightly outside.

Should I reschedule or just do it and cover with plastic when we're done?


texts:
Our whole house fan timer counts down as it should but when it nears the 'off' position, it stops there and never shuts off. Is this likely an issue with just the switch itself (eg I just have to replace it) or could it be a larger issue?

It's an attic fan from the 60s with a timer switch on the wall to control it. The dial looks like this:

Thanks in advance for your help!


texts: I have a 240 volt submersible water well pump. I hook it up directly to 240 to see if it'll run. It should run until I turn off the power, but it doesn't. It runs for around three seconds and then it turns off for 10, runs for 3 seconds turns off  for 10 and so on. What's the problem? I have a 20 amp breaker.


texts: Can I split off a 20a with a conduit body?

texts:
So I am coming out of my subpanel with 1/2 in metal conduit and using metal handy boxes with NEMA 5-20 for all the receptacles on my two indoor branch circuits. One is dedicated for a window unit AC. All wires are 12AWG stranded copper THHN/THWN.

The ac receptacle is protected with AFCI and GFCI because part of the unit is outdoors. The other receptacles are protected with AFCI only.

So six conductors in all come out. At a t-type conduit body we split off L1/N/G and go up to a handy box near the window. L2/N/G continue on to the wall receptacles.

A separate N ang G run to each circuit. I chose to use a separate G for the two circuits in case the G to one circuit somehow comes loose. No splices are planned anywhere in this setup. All receptacles use the better clamp-type screw connectors the hold the wire captive between two plates.

Is this safe? Am I violating the fill calculation for the  conduit body? I used an online calculator assuming 6 conductors pass thru box, and it yielded 13.5 cubic inches ... really? Is that much room really needed with no splices?


texts: I am looking for recommendations on the best brand of PEX manifolds for a residence installation. Need one with shut off. I am concerned about the plastic based ones?


texts: Building indoor water feature / water fountain

texts:
I would like to have my own little waterfall inside my house.  I find the flowing water very soothing and relaxing.

I have seen a couple of "desktop" water fountains, and that is the rough idea, now I just want to scale that up several notches.

The size I would like to go for is probably about 1m cube (so 1 meter wide by 1 meter tall by a meter deep)

What do I need, where do I start?  I thought as a good starting point is to get a nice photo of a real life waterfall and try to build that?


texts:
I installed this turbine vent but noticed that small animals like rats, small birds or even small squirrels can get through the rotor gills when it is not spinning.
I was thinking of putting a metal screen (how about wire lathe or stucco netting?) from inside the attic so that, even if an animal does get in through the rotor gills, it can't get in the attic. The rotor can be easily taken off to remove animal carcasses if they don't find their way out of the enclosure and die trapped.
Is this a good approach to pest proofing?
I am also curious why the manufacturer didn't include it.


texts:
I have a gutter downspout about halfway through the lower section of a flat roof that currently connects to a rain barrel. The barrel is poor quality and sprung a leak that I have tried patching multiple times, and it's a bit of an eyesore. I'd like to cap the downspout and remove the rain barrel, but I'm not sure if this would put unnecessary load on the remaining gutter on that side of the house.

Is this something I can do without risking the water overflowing? I don't want to install a downspout there because of its inconvenient location that isn't on a corner.

Also, if I can cap it, how do you go about doing that? Would I just put a shingle over the downspout hole in the roof and seal it, or is there a more proper way?

See photos for more info.

I can't get up on the roof at the moment, but it looks something like the following photo with a round drain, but then a square cutout instead of a round cutout:


texts:
Some of my lights are flickering and I can't figure out why. One thought is that I wired stuff incorrectly. Right now, all the live wires are tied together (no loops or anything) and the same for the neutrals. Should I add looping or additional wires?

In other words, I have 3 Insteon switches and 1 live wire connected together. Then I have 3 light fixture and 3 insteon switch neutral wires connected together. Is it ok to connect them all together (assuming I have a large enough wire connector), or do I need to have additional wires and stuff?