texts: How can I efficiently heat a bonus room above a detached garage?

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I'm planning a 20x20' detached garage which will have a bonus room built into the roof trusses.  I'd like to use this bonus room as my home office — so, since I live in the cold North, it'll need a heat source.

Given that the space will be thoroughly insulated, and that the only mechanical I can easily run from the house is electricity, how can I heat this space (12x20x7', just shy of 1700 cubic feet) in a reasonably efficient manner?

Considerations:

As it'll be used mostly during normal business hours, the temp can be allowed to dip at night, but must stay reliably above, say, 50° (for the sake of the computer equipment)
The faces of the gable roof are East and West (I'm open to insulated skylights and/or some kind of passive solar, if it'd help)
If needed, I can run water lines to the space (the detached garage will only be about 12' away from the house)
I'm open to some sort of burned fuel (pellet stove?), as long as the fuel itself is relatively inexpensive and widely available (I have access to as much chopped wood as I can burn, but something more compactly stored / consistently burned would be nice)
The trusses will be customized anyway, so I can use a heavy / reinforced bottom web, should it be necessary to pour some kind of underlayment layer (for in-floor radiant heating or just plain heat retention via mass)
The furnace for my home is fueled by our city's gas lines (may be possible to run a line to the office space, if needed)

Given all of this, what kind of heat source (or combination of sources) would get this home office through a cold Wisconsin winter in a reasonably efficient way (up-front cost can be higher, assuming the savings make up for it in less than, say, 5-7 years).

Edit: change text in last paragraph from "as efficiently as possible" to "in a reasonably efficient way", to clarify the scope of response I'm looking for.


texts: Can I vent my plumbing prior to the main entering the house?

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If I plumb each fixture inside my house using an air admittance valve (AAV), my understanding is that they will drain/flush properly since air is being let into the system.

My question concerns the sewer gases that will need to be removed from the system. Instead of venting the fixtures in the traditional manner, resulting in a roof penetration, can I simply vent the main DWV 4" line just before it enters the house? Seems to me that the gases are going to rise at the first opportunity.

So, would the combination of AAV's and a single exterior vent suffice?


texts: How can I bolt a microwave to the upper cabinet if the bolt hole is stripped?

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Of course this happened on the very last step... I am trying to install an over-the-range microwave. I've got it hanging on the bracket that attached to the back wall. All I need to do now is bolt the top front to the upper cabinet. But the ****** bolt hole is stripped on one of them. The bolt will go all the way in but never catch enough to hold the microwave's weight. Tge bolt itself is fine. The other hole works like it should, too.

I thought about attaching a nut that fits the bolt onto the top of the microwave with epoxy but whether or not it would really stick seems like a gamble. I also thought about cutting a small notch into the side, slipping in a nut epoxied to a washer and positioning them under the hole where the bolt should enter. That also seems risky since there's a chance I'd cut something I shouldn't or that the washer and  nut would fall someplace I couldn't reach. A third option would be to drill a home in to the side cabinet and insert a screw through there but that would also entail drilling into the  microwave. I really don't want this thing crashing down on to the oven!

Thanks in advance.


texts: How to put a 1ft piece of a 4x4'' post onto existing one without the connection being visible?

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I have a fence which I would like to raise by 1ft. The posts are 4x4'' pressure treated wood. I would like to cut a new 4x4 post into 1ft pieces and put on top of existing ones.

What's the best way to attach the new 1ft pieces to the existing posts without the hardware used to hold it being visible? I saw a couple of neighbors used caps, angles or ties for that, but it visually sticks out -- metal on wood is too much contrast.


texts:
The following tiles:

Have fallen off the side of the swimming pool here:

Questions: What should I use to stick them back on? I notice that they appear to have grouting between them. Is that a different substance to that which is used to stick them back? How do I prevent more from falling off and having to go through the exercise of lowering the pool level again to reattach?


texts: My dehumidifier has an error margin of +/- 5% in the range 30%-90%

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How do I calculate the possible error at a certain RH?
Does this mean that it has a lower error at 40% than at 90% ?


texts: Unable to turn knob on Rheem hot water heater to pilot

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I have a Rheem heater (Model# PROG50-38N RH60). The pilot has gone out. This tutorial suggests I must turn the knob to pilot to start the process of relighting the heater. When I try to turn my knob to pilot, I am unable to do so. Is there any trick to getting the knob into pilot mode? I don't want to break the heater by forcing things.
Here is the knob on my heater


texts: Water still circulating through toilet even after I shut off the water supply!

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Full youtube video is here.

Basically when I turn all the water off to my toilet, water is still leaking out of a yellow tub from inside the tank, and circulating through the toilet.

I need to fix this so that water is not leaking and so when I turn the water off, no more water gets circulated through the toilet. Any ideas as to what is going wrong and how I can fix this?


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I need to add a C wire to use my wifi thermostat. I have a 2 wire thermostat now. There is a third wire in the wall which runs to the basement where it is cut off. I can easily extend it to the boiler. There are 2 zones in the house. I am connecting the thermostat to the main zone so I can monitor the house temperature while we're traveling. It appears to me that I should connect the C wire to the "2" terminal of the zone valve as shown on the attached wiring diagram. This diagram was drawn by installer of the zone valves when the second zone was added.
The zone valves are White-Rodgers 1361's. The boiler is a Laars MiniTherm. I have traced the wire to a 24VAc transformer in the boiler.

The White-Rodgers 1361 zone valve has five terminals arranged Like this:

2    2/5    4

      1     3

2/5 and 4 run the the thermostat. 2 and 1 run to the transformer. The 2 terminal wire is marked "neutral" on the diagram. 3 runs to the boiler controls.


texts: Causes for toilets to self-flush due to water pressure issues

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Hopefully I can convey my question properly.  My townhome is about 20 yrs old (relatively new).  It is two stories tall.  I have 2 toilets upstairs and one toilet downstairs.  This issue just started happening a few days ago.  When I flush one of the upstairs toilets, it causes my downstairs toilet to "flush".  I put flush in quotes because the water from the tank doesn't come down in this case but it seems the outlet from the bowl bubbles and the water leaves the bowl.  The downstairs bowl is empty whenever the upstairs toilets are flushed.
I've also tried to flush the downstairs toilet by itself and even though things get flushed into the sewer, it doesn't fill the bowl entirely with water afterwards, even if I hold the handle down to let more water get into the bowl.  It seems to be filled 60-70% of normal when the downstairs toilet is flushed by itself.
It doesn't seem like a blockage since nothing thankfully is coming back up.  I don't know how flushing upstairs is causing the downstairs toilet to lose water from the bowl and causing it to not fill to its old level.
What could be causing this problem and would this be something I could fix myself or is this something more complex like re-piping the whole toilet plumbing system in the house?


texts: can i use a transformer to run an american steam cleaner ( 120v/60hz) on a 220v/50hz

texts: i recently purchased a steam cleaner ( sienna Luna plus) willing to use it in Algeria, but it is designed to be used in the US , the only way i found to transform 220 v 50 hz  to 110 v  ( i think continuous ) is by using an electrical transformer , can i use it normally ? if not , what should i use ? , i am hearing around that 50hz even with 120v will hurt and damage it , so i want to be more sure about it


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thanks in advance for any advice. We bought our 100-year-old house last summer, so this is our first winter in it. The walls are not insulated, so we can tell where the heat ducts run not only because of the placement of vents, but also because we can put our hands on the walls and it will feel warm if the duct is behind it. In the living room, the wall has always looked patchy in front of the duct (like patched plaster), but recently a new crack has appeared--still hairline, but it definitely wasn't there before. It runs vertically, parallel to the duct.

Is this due to the temperature difference between the cold and warm parts of the wall? Why is it just happening now after many years of this heat system being used? Should I be concerned?


texts: Why can't I get my caster wheels to engage their inserts?

texts: I drilled a hole into 4 desk legs to add caster wheels. Added the metal inserts into which the casters will slide into. I can't manage to push the wheels into the the inserts. For some reason even banging them with a hammer doesn't move them much. Any ideas?


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The front of my stove top gets very hot when the oven is on. This is an electric range with smooth glass top.
I saw a similar question about a range with coil burners
Is there a quick solution to my problem?


texts: What's the difference between a childproof outlet and a normal one?

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I was reading the latest entry on this blog and I saw that she'd mentioned that they'd installed some child-proof outlets. But they don't look any different from normal outlets to me!

What's the difference between child-proof outlets and normal ones? How would I go about installing them, if I needed to?


texts: Installing a 50 Amp breaker for 220 circuit, using a direct burial cable for 100' for use of electric 220 welder

texts: What size or guage electrical cable do I need if I am installing a 50Amp Breaker in panel and going 100' to run a 220 volt welder?


texts: Closing in a window opening on a cinderblock wall

texts: I am having a window closed in, on a cinderblock wall. My contractor laid mortar horizontally when he put up the wall. But he left gaps on all the vertical sides of the cinderblocks. When I questioned him about it he said it was excepible to fill those gaps after all the bricks were laid. His guys tried the rest of the day to force mortar into the gaps. I can now stick a small rod into lots of holes they left. I also noticed when I put a straight edge to the side of the wall the bricks are not aligned. Some are pushed back as they stagger upwards. I called him the next day to ask questions. He called my husband and I crazy and told us that “they are not done”. Should I continue to let him keep adding mortar? I can not tell if there is anything between some of the bricks. There is however lots all over the fronts of the bricks.  Will that hold them up over time? I am not sure how to move forward.


texts: I'm installing a new sink and as its visible from the picture the pipes are not aligned and sink pipe is not long enough as well. The pipe coming out of the wall is pretty solid so I didn't try pulling it out trying to align the pipes, as well I can bring the sink base a bit closer to the wall, but that will still be not enough to insert the drain pipe. Is there anything i could use as a connection/adapter between these two? Thanks!


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I would like to mount a 65" led TV on a wall where I can only hit a single stud - the studs are 24" apart and the TV weights approx 75lbs.

This particular mount can extend 2FT out from the wall, and will be used in that way. We'll tilt the TV so that it actually sits kitty-corner in the room corner. I've looked for corner mounts but cannot find one which accommodates the 24" stud spacing.

The layout of the wall goes like this from left to right

window -> stud1 -> stud2 -> corner of the room

stud2 is 24" from the corner and stud1 is 24" from stud2, leaving 9" between stud1 and the window.

Plans:

Lag the TV mount into stud2 with 2 lag screws and use toggle bolts for the remaining holes. I fear this plan would end in my tv being smashed and my wall ripped apart.
I have a sheet of 3/4 oak plywood - I could cut a 12-14" wide strip and mount that from the window to the corner, and then mount the TV to that plywood. Using this plan I could hit stud1, stud2, and probably a stud near the window itself.

Will plan 2 support the weight of the TV at full extension? If so I have a couple more questions

Should I lag the mount through the plywood into the stud where that is possible?
How should the TV mount be secured to the plywood? large wood screws? Or would it be preferable to use toggle bolts through the plywood?


texts: redirecting some air from outdoor A/C compressor into the attic to cool it down

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I can't find any info on this question, and this might be a stupid idea... but anyway:
The temperature in the attic is ca. 130F, 3pm, outside temperature 90F. ( Florida, 17y/o house ) Can I direct/force part of the air coming out of the outside A/C compressor via the soffit into the attic to cool it down? The air coming out of the compressor is way colder than the attic temperature. I am thinking about some prove of concept temporary installation to compare the results without doing too many changes, and without regretting that I tried.
But before I even attempt this I want to ask you guys.
Many thanks!
Mike


texts: How can I add a switched circuit to an existing three-way circuit?

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I have a basic understanding of home wiring and generally able to "figure things out" as an engineer. I have a single receptacle in my detached garage that is switched with a 3-way switch (switches wired together with 14/2, then 14/2 wire from one switch goes to receptacle).
I'd like to steal the hot from here to power 2 lights in the loft.  I understand the 3-way will need to be on before the switch activating the lights is even powered.
Is this doable? Can someone help clarify how I'd wire it? Would it be just like a normal switch?
Basically, I don't want the loft lights on all the time. I have 2 shop lights plugged into the switched receptacle.  If I needed to go into the loft, I'd turn on the 3 way switch, then go turn on this new switch to light up the loft.  Any input is greatly appreciated!


texts: Bathroom addition - pluming drainage problem

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New here, and i am a rookie home DIYer. Looking for some help

Me and a friend of mine(tradie who knows much more than me) have started trying to add a bathroom to an old double garage at the rear of my property. It is a circa 1950 home built with double brick. In order to connect the bathroom drainage ( shower, sink & toilet) to the waste line we had to cut two channels, one through the concrete floor and one trench outside running to the sewer access point. The problem lies when trying to connect the two under the existing wall through the concrete slab/foundation. We don't want to damage the structural integrity of the foundation and its so thick i am not sure drilling a hole big enough for the 100mm waste pipe to fit will even be possible. Any ideas would be great.... thanks


texts: Ways to reduce noise in a home near railroad tracks?

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My soon-to-be home is approximately 75 to 100 feet away from a semi-busy railroad track with trains that carry coal and other cargo. They do not travel very fast but the rumble/horn is still an issue.

Are there ways to help absorb the noise from the tracks that can be done indoors? Outdoors?


texts: How do I add a socket to a fused alarm spur?

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I am in the UK.

I wish to install a socket (possibly a double) in the under stair area of my house. The main consumer unit is based here and also the alarm box. One option would be to get an electrician to put in either a separate circuit (overkill) or split the downstairs ring at the consumer unit to provide a socket there, but I'd like to avoid that if possible.

The other potential option is that the alarm is run off a fused spur. Is it acceptable/legal to run a socket off this fused spur? If so, should it be that I run it between the fused connection unit and the alarm or can I run two cables out of the FCU (basically in parallel)?


texts: Old switch has four wires and no discernable ground

texts: I am trying to install a decora smart switch for my front home lights. The switch is in a box with the hall light switch and a switched outlet switch. I think the front lights switch is a single pole but not sure how to connect everything. Thanks in advance.


texts:
I have a stackable washer dryer - the dryer is a Malber TD 700 and is stacked on top of the washing machine.
The other day I used the dryer without any problems in the morning. I tried it again about an hour later, and it wouldn't turn on. Usually when the on button is pressed it stays depressed and a light goes on, but now the button will not stay down, and the light does not turn on.
Here is what I looked at: The outlet seems to be working fine, for other appliances. I tried unplugging the dryer for a while (overnight) but that also did not solve the problem.
Another thought I had was that the problem was with the mechanism that recognizes the door is closed. I tried reaching in to manually press that, and I got the machine to turn on for a second. But, further attempts did not lead to any more success, and I do not think that it was really the problem.
Any other ideas of what I may be able to do?
*It was suggested to me to try to check the door switch. How can I do that?


texts: Is it OK to have ground wire connected to breaker box wall instead of neutral bus?

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After having issues with lights flickering, I noticed the main 100A breaker was warm and arcing slightly. Instead of just replacing the breaker, I decided to call in a electrician to install a larger panel with spaces for more breakers, as I was planning to install an air conditioner in the future.

He said the existing ground wire wasn't long enough, so he connected it to the metal wall of the panel with something that looks like a miniature bus with one screw. (sorry, I forgot exactly what it was called)

Is it really safe to do this? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to connecting the grounding wire to the metal casing of the panel instead of directly to the neutral bus?


texts: How to seal joints in ductwork when tape is not an option

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The duct-work in the basement for my forced air heating system has been modified at various points over its long history and as a result had quite a few leaks when I moved in recently. I used foil tape to fix most of them, but I'm having trouble with the biggest leak:

The red arrow is the main branch from the furnace, showing the direction of airflow.
Blue shows the branch leading to the register. This register is the second one on this branch, and the most "direct" (the other leads through a section of smaller duct-work). The register is located directly above the floor joists shown.
Green shows where the leak is -- the duct (blue) butts against this joist, and where it meets the main branch (red) there is a gap about 1/4" (0.5 cm) wide, for the width of the duct. Between the joist (green) and the main branch (red) there is just enough space to get my fingers. This is the space that needs to be filled or sealed to stop the leak.

Since I have failed to get tape in to seal this joint, how else can I seal it? I'm thinking of getting a piece of foam insulation or perhaps tube wrap to shove in the gap, but would this be wise?

Some additional details:

Moving the main branch to get better access is probably more trouble than it's worth.
Location is an unfinished basement.
The space is already warm enough given the small size and the fact that the furnace and lots of duct work is radiating enough heat to keep it warm.


texts:
I'm trying to install any new pop-up assembly because my sink is currently leaking from the gasket. I purchased a Ace Hardware brand replacement. Unfortunately, I did not read the directions before I left the hardware store.

Now, I am at home and I see that the instructions say to "apply plumbers putty to the rim of the hole"-- to seal the flange into place.

So is it possible to use Teflon tape instead of plumbers putty for this?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How to repair (and is it worth the trouble to) a rusty dishwasher rack?

We have a dishwasher with wire racks on the inside. The racks have a plastic coating on them, but after years of use, this has worn off in critical places. Now, rust is being deposited on the edges of our dishware. I'd like to clean off the rust and find some way to stop it, possibly by applying a new coating. I'm thinking of using a wire brush to clean off the rust and then applying some red RTV silicon gasket maker to replace the plastic coating. The color wouldn't match, but aesthetics don't really matter. Do you think this would work, or do you have a better suggestion?


texts: Do I need a neutral wire when connecting a 240V device?

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So this is still not very clear to me: I am trying to get 240V to an appliance that does not need a plug (direct wiring), I won't need a neutral wire, is this right? In fact there is nowhere to connect it on the appliance, right? I just need the two hot wires wired to the L1 and L2 lines and it will work. Additionally, I can wire the ground to the ground line, for safety (not doing this would be crazy), but no current would go through this during normal operation, right? I might be completely wrong here, just trying to understand.

I started from this thread: Why Do 240V Circuits Not Require Neutral?


texts: What is the proper deck footing depth in Connecticut?

texts: I'm moving a deck footing for an existing deck, the current one is in the wrong location and it's too small.  What is the proper depth in Connecticut in order to ensure that it doesn't suffer from frost heaving?


texts: How should I prepare a sub-floor for porcelain tile?

texts: I am removing a laminate tile floor. There looks to be 2 layers of 3/4" Plywood as the sub-floor. Do I remove 1 layer of Plywood and install 1/2" concrete board or leave the plywood and install 1/4" concrete board on top of the plywood before installing the porcelain tile floor? My concern is that if I leave the existing sub-floor material I am going to have a ½” rise in the floor from one room to another.


texts: How do I wire a three way switch with two lights?

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My "power in"  box has its black/white and ground and also the three wire cable( black /white /red and ground)  and also the first light wires ( black/white).    how do I wire this.

It is going to two lights--  the first light is pretty simple - just black and white-- ends at fixture--- also the cable feeding light # 2
 and then moving on to the second three way box.
It seems I have an extra black wire in the initial "power in" box...

Do I hook the black power in with the black cable and let the current circulate?
  or attach the power in to the dark screw.  and then what do I do with the other two black wires? black cable to black first light?    white cable to single light screw side,( as traveler) and red to double screw light screw side?

I have seen a couple photos and nothing is crystal clear.


texts: Convert 2 individual single stage systems into 1 2-stage zoned system - does it make sense?

texts:
My home is 3600 sq/ft, 2-story brick house in Houston, TX.
Currently I have 2 single stage 10-seer Trane units with a 100K BTU furnace with 4-ton blower in each: one for upstairs and one downstairs.The units have lasted a very long time. Both were installed when the house was built in 98 and are the old R-22 coolant types.

Over the last several years, I have had to have the units serviced each year to top off the coolant, or they may begin to freeze up in the summer (about 3 lbs. coolant each). The cost of the R-22 has really started to rise and recently the downstairs froze up within 2 months of topping off, so I have now decided to replace it.

In the process of getting quotes and researching my options, I have decided I should replace the entire system and not just the condenser and coil. In addition, after pricing them, I'm seriously considering the option to replace both systems at the same time. Replacing both reduced the cost per unit if doing them at the same time and also alleviates some concern over having to replace the second system in the near future, given how old they are.

Anyway, I ran across another option that was proposed to me that is very intriguing, but I have some reservations about it. The option proposed is: Instead of replacing the 2 existing systems with single-stage 14-seer, perform a conversion to one 2-stage, 16-seer system, that is zoned separately for the upstairs and downstairs with separate thermostats, etc.

Now as I mentioned before, I currently have 2-3.5 ton systems. From what I can determine (online), based on the 3600 sq/ft, I really only need a total of 6 tons. Furthermore, the current returns feeding the systems are not likely giving me the full capacity anyway. Currently the upstairs has a 12x12 and a 12x24. The downstairs has a single 20x30 return. Both seem to suck air and are (in my opinion) too noisy.
My concern is that the company believes I can go from the 2-3.5 ton systems into a single 5-ton dual stage, using zones to balance the upstairs and downstairs.

Question:
Based on the information I have given, does it sound feasible to reduce from 7 tons to 5 tons if the system is zoned and dual staged? Will the new system have enough tonnage to prevent it from running in 'high mode' a large percentage of time?


texts: Whats more efficient for AC and Blower Fan, lower temperature/fan auto or higher temperature fan on?

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This summer i want to be more efficient and save money on my AC usage because I can remember last year it was an disaster. For example, on a typical 100 degree day, the highest the temperature would read on the thermostat is about 85-86 degree around 5pm without any AC, all windows and shades closed. Last summer I set my thermostat to 81 degree and the AC will kick on right about 3pm when temp start to go above 81 degree. And then every 15 to 30 min. or so, the AC and fan will constantly turn on and off. I usually run AC for 4 hours from 3-7, then we open all windows around 8pm when nightfall.

Below are the options I can think of, which one is more efficient and cost effective?

Set the thermostat at 81 degree and keep fan on for four hours.
Set the thermostat at 79 degree and fan auto for 3 hours.
Set the thermostat at 78 degree and fan on for 1 hour then wait another hour and turn AC back on fan on for another 1hour.

My system is Lennox G16 Q3-50 Furnace and I think a 1.5 ton ac outside.


texts:
I have a pedestal fan, and the capacitor needs to be replaced.  Unfortunately, I cannot find a replacement online.
Here are the specs:

2-wire
5.5 uf +- 10/5 %
250 VAC 50/60Hz
MAX TEMP 70 C
E166700 G

I found a close one on Amazon, and am wondering if I can substitute.
The specs are exactly the same as above, except instead of 5.5 uf, it is listed as 4.5 uf and the +- is 5%
E163532
If this cannot be used, can someone help with an appropriate replacement?  Thanks!


texts: How do I wire in a bathroom light/fan to this box?

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This is a very old house. I wanted to add a light/fan to this bathroom while the ceiling was down for repair. When I opened the switch box this is what I found (second picture).  A GFI wired correctly, with the switch for the existing vanity light coming off the GFI load side, however I’m not sure what the red wire is for. Since I need to keep the vanity lights and add the switch for the light/fan, I bought this Legrand Combination switch (last 3 pics) hoping to be able to use it to accomplish the switching without having to start cutting into plaster to install a 3 gang box.

Can anyone draw out or explain well how I can wire this up with what I have to work with, or suggest a better combination switch and how to wire it all up?

Thanks.


texts: venting dryer into unused lined chimney flue

texts: I have vented a gas clothes dryer into an unused terre cotta lined chimney flue in the basement.  The chimney is shared with another lined chimney flue venting the gas hot water heater.  The chimney is 2-1/2 stories high.  My wife worries about this setup and lint buildup in the liner. The dryer dries very well.   Is this an issue?


texts: How to recharge a window unit air conditioner?

texts:
Can I recharge my window unit air conditioner or do I have to send it to a specialist?

The AC unit that I have is about 15 years old (nothing lasts forever)... and I happen to have about 20 lbs of R22 on hand... so I wrote this up. The AC isn't really leaking, but after about 15 years I have lost a couple pounds.


texts: Removing a wax finish from a wood countertop, in preparation for tung oil

texts: I have a wooden countertop in my kitchen that has been finished with Butcher Block Conditioner (mineral oil and natural waxes).  It is not satisfactory and I am now preparing to refinish it, using tung oil (Waterlox).  However, I have to strip all the wax out of the wood first.  What is the easiest, safest and least toxic way to do this?  Will Citrus Solvent do the trick?  Vinegar and water?


texts: Can I use pressure treated lumber to build a wall?

texts:
I have couple of 2X4 8' pressure treated lumbers left, Can I use them as King/Jack studs to support a 2"X 10" header in one of the load bearing wall in my basement ?
Thanks


texts: Do I need to raise the floor to slab height of existing living space (garage floor is 6" lower than living space. I would probably say "yes" due some kind of code for residential flooding. Haven't got a reply for the building dept. yet. Does it need to be concrete or can it be wood framed and insulated? I'm planning to add a bathroom. So this would be a critical issue.


texts:
Today I saw my father added water into the cooler. But I never saw my father add water into the air conditioner.

Why should I add water in cooler but not in air conditioner?


texts:
Thanks in advance for any answers.

I have just had a shed installed which is built onto the side of our house.  It has a metal roof, with OSB board under it (there are wooden noggins to support it).

I have tried to insulate the roof with Polystyrene blocks, which we intend to cover with plasterboard.

The sides of the shed have been insulated in the same way - although there is no metal on the sides it's just wood.  The main difference being, that I have used a vis screen on the cold side of the polystyrene.  There have also been vents cut in the sides of the panels towards the bottom.

The floor is currently just a concrete slab with flags in between.  There is nothing over the top of it.

The sides of the shed are showing no signs of mold, however the roof is - behind the polystyrene blocks.  I am guessing that this is due to moisture being trapped and a lack of ventilation.  Does anyone have any ideas for a solution that we could use to avoid this? Or am I better off just taking the plasterboard and polystyrene off of the roof and forgetting trying to insulate it?

Thanks again,

Mark.


texts:
I made a magnetic knife holder out of wood and coated with Arm-r-Seal oil urethane but after 3 days of curing it seems it'll get beat up too fast. What's the strongest I could use?

Is this a good application for epoxy? I haven't worked with it before due to price.

If I do use epoxy, how well does the old finish need to be cleaned off?

edit: epoxy might not be food-safe enough...


texts: Why would the power only to the upstairs lights go off mysteriously?

texts: The house was built in 1890 I came home tried to turn on light upstairs and thought the bulb blew. I replaced bulb but still didn't work. Then I realized that my computer was also off as was every overhead light upstairs except the bathroom. Some outlets also still work. I found the breaker box and switched it off and on again still no luck. I found some 2 glass fuses in the ceiling and wonder if that could be the problem? Would there be another main breaker box I am not finding? Any suggestions would help.


texts: I  have a natural gas hot water furnace and I can't get heat. First I turn up the temperature at the thermostat and I hear the furnace turn on, the supply line gets hot and half way down the line it stays cold. I tried getting the air out of the line but now I have no water pressure. I don't know if the pressure was at 0 before I even started.


texts:
I too have a Generac 5500 Generator. It is safely positioned on the side of my home, a double - wide on block foundation , on a concrete pad. I have a super clean (even vacuumed) crawl space.

I want to install a Reliance csr302 manual transfer switch to run JUST my well pump in a power outage. The pump is a Pentek 1/2hp, single phase, 230VAC, 2wire with earth ground, running off my house panel with a 20 amp breaker since installation in 2017.

I have viewed and calculated the voltage drop using the Southwire site (handy) I've seen posted here & if I were to use a 12ga. 4 wire  run of about 20 feet to go under my house into the crawl space and back up to the breaker panel to make the connections I need to make there, I calculated a 3 volt drop.

My generator puts out a metered 236vac no load.

I ask this because most sites say install of the transfer switch should be 1.5' max from the panel. I have no room to do that, no basement, no attic , and the house main panel is an entry foyer on a shallow wall. I'm assuming that is NEC code the distance from the panel. My code books are all older, (1980's) so I don't know if that has changed since.

Currently I have run the pump in power out emergencies by wire nutting a feed from the generator on a 10 ga. extension cord with pigtails (Generac Supplied Cordset with the 120v multi-outlet head removed) to the pump pair I removed from my panel breaker. The isolation is there as I shut down my main at the panel AND outside below the meter, so there's no chance of feedback, but I want to install the transfer switch for safety & ease of switching over if I'm not home when the power fails.

So, can safely make that 20 foot "pick-up" wire run as I described above. I hope there's enough info here. Thanks Dan


texts:
I don't really know much about building anything so I was trying to keep this as simple as possible (2x4s and OSB, wood glue and screws). I'm worried about the highlighted legs bowing.

This is for a grow box I wanted to build. The top part is a hood, and the front will be a hinged door. I'm trying to avoid another horizontal support across the two highlighted legs because I want to be able to have a completely open space from the front and top.

The hood would have an additional 10lb load from hanging lights. The inner table will hold a tote with up to 8 gallons of water.


texts:
See photo.  I'm not even sure I'm using the right terminology, because I don't know the name of this type of window.

It's very hard to get these areas clean from the inside. Is it truly necessary to remove the screen, open the window, wet, and spray out this funk?

The ridges that make the seal just seem to fight against anything being removed from the area.

If you know the type of window and a better way to ask this question, I welcome new title/clarity suggestions!


texts: Can any deadbolt be made to work without an outer lock?

texts:
I am planning a secondary entrance door that does not need to be openable from the outside. So, if I have a deadbolt on the door, I just need a twist lever on the inside and no lock on the outside.

When I look at deadbolts in catalogs, however, they all seem to have key holes and plates on the outside. Is it possible to just leave this part of the lock out, or do I need to find a deadbolt that is specifically designed to have just a lever on one side and no lock? If so, what is that called?


texts: is this the correct for wiring outlet after a wall switch is put for other purpose

texts:
We recently bought a house and then we found one of the outlet in master bedroom doesn't work. The lower outlet has power but the upper outlet doesn't.

After open the cover plate, I found the copper bridge on the hot wire side is broken. There is a red wire connecting the upper hot side, a white wire connecting upper neutral side, another white connecting bottom neutral side, a black wire connecting bottom hot side. The other side of black wire is connecting with another black wire using a wiring nut.

There are two wall switches, one is for the ceiling fan and the other one is for recess light. I guess the red one was from the switch and later when the previous owner change the switch to control the ceiling fan or recess light, the red wire is abandoned. My fix is replace the outlet with a new one, connect black wire to bottom hot side, white to bottom neutral, the other white to upper neutral and I use a wiring nut to cap the red wire and leave it in the junction box.


texts:
Like so many others, I am looking to install a new wifi thermostat with an older furnace.  I've searched across the Internet and I have a pretty good idea of what is needed and why; however, I have a couple of questions and I'm hoping someone out there will recognize my setup and provide some clarification.   Please note that I purchase this house in 2017, so I was not around for the current furnace or thermostat installation.

So, with regard to the photos below:

Why is the "Y wire" connected to the "Y" port on the thermostat, but the "Com" (C) port on the furnace?  Shouldn't it match "Y" <-> "Y"?   (Note:  You can't see it on the photo, but the yellow wire is twisted so that it connects to the "COM" port on the furnace, along with the red and white wires from the other cable.)
I see that there are extra wires that are unused (blue, orange, and brown).  Should I just connect one of those to the "COM" (C) port on the furnace along with the other wire that is there?

So, I guess I'm just wanting to confirm the best/easiest way to create a "C" wire for my new thermostat.   My guess is that I use one of the extra wires that aren't being used and just connect it to the "COM" (C) port on the furnace panel, correct?

Thanks!


texts: Why is the amperage lower for higher wattage devices?

texts:
Can anyone explain how electrical amperage associates to device wattage? From what I understand amperage is the amount of electrical current running through the circuit (if I imaging the AC current as a sine wave, then the amplitude is the distance from the base line to the peak of the sine wave. Though this gets a bit more complex with RMS amplitude).

As far as I understand wattage, that's the power consumption of a device in a given time unit. So for example my oven is a 12 kiloWatt oven. Which means it'll consume 12 kiloWatts every hour? Is that right?

So my question is, why is my oven on a 30 amp circuit when it's 12 kW, and my 8kW shower is on a 45 amp circuit?

Oh yes, I'm in the UK by the way so 240 Volts into the house.


texts:
Aiming to put some bike hooks into a plaster on brick wall - We've acquired a hammer drill and have been practicing on a spare brick and a backyard cement wall but the drill is just barely / not really progressing.

Not at all working as quickly as it shows in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjE6nsfdjpo

Some details:

 It's a corded drill
 We are using masonry bits - they've got the little hammer heads on the edge
 We've tried a larger and a smaller size bit
 The drill is in fact set in the forward position :)

Are we missing something?


texts:
The ceiling in this image is very typical of houses built in the 90s in the UK. Wondering if this type of finish is still available and what it would be called? I'm guessing its a kind of wallpaper that was put over the ceiling boards.

It also has a flat border around the edges next to the coving, any idea how to achieve that kind of finish?


texts: how to avoid tiny gaps in end joints of hardwood floor install

texts:
I am installing my first ever hardwood floor.  It's pre-finished 3/4" solid wood, and it's been pretty fun.  I've noticed that some of my end joints have some very tiny gaps on one side of the joint (flush on the other side).  I often have to look closely to notice, but some are visible from standing up.

My assumption is that these small gaps result when the board next to the end joint has a very slight bow to it (either concave or convex relative to the boards that comprise the end joint).  I suppose it's also possible that the boards were not cut at the factory with perfectly square ends, but enough of my joints do meet perfectly that I don't think this is the case.

My question is: is there anything I can realistically do about this?  It's not really a big problem and maybe the answer is just to live with it, but it's slightly irksome to the perfectionist in me.  How do I ensure as I lay each row that it doesn't have any slight curve and, therefore, will not pass along any problems to the next row?  Are there any tricks to this?

If I could perfectly straighten the bowed boards, it would presumably solve the problem, but frankly, I usually can't even tell if a given board is indeed bowed or not.  Certainly not by eye, and not with a 4' straightedge for the shorter pieces.  Some of the longer pieces appear to have a very slight bow relative to my 4' level.  And even if I did know a board was slightly bowed before I installed it into the floor, I'm not sure how to install it perfectly enough that such slight discrepancies are avoided...?

Here is a photo of the floor - it was put down from right to left (tongues facing left of photo).

Here is close up of end joint from the middle of the photo.  board width is 4 1/4".  My guess is the light-colored board to the right of the end joint is slightly concave relative to the end joint.


texts: Will isolating a clothes dryer make it safer if fire occurs?

texts:
i have installed my electric dryer in the basement about 2 feet from cinderblock wall. It is on tile and nothing else is close by except the washer a foot away and sewer pipe about 8 inches behind.
If there was a lint fire could it spread anywhere?

I guess what I am asking is what happens after lint and clothes inside burn. Will other things burn?


texts: Folks I want to replace several breakers in my panel with AFCI's.  Looking at the directions it appears you wire the power and neutral posts to the AFCI and the breaker pigtail to the neutral/ground bus.  Well when I pulled the panel and inspected the AFCI's already installed required by code only for bedrooms only the power(black) wire was installed in the AFCI breaker.  The neutral & pigtail was installed on the neutral/ground bus.  Is this an error and can I simply wire the AFCI with the power (black) wire and attach the neutral wire to ground?


texts: How effective will a window unit AC be for a garage?

texts:
We have a 3-car tandem garage on our house in Texas. This summer, we're planning on having a family reunion and were thinking of using the 3rd bay as an overflow area for the people who couldn't fit inside.
Given that it will easily be in the 90's during any given summer day, and the garage isn't insulated, what do you think can be reasonably expected by throwing in my backup window unit?  I'm definitely not expecting to freeze anyone out, but I also would hope that it could keep the garage from being unbearable.
Just wondering if anyone has tried this, and what your experience has been.  TIA.


texts: Catalytic Carbon or Birm for iron removal

texts:
I took a water test that has the following results: (acceptable standard in parenthesis).

Total hardness: 100ppm (<50ppm)
Alkalinity: 120ppm (<180ppm)
pH: 7 (6.5-8.5)
iron: 5+ ppm (<.3ppm)

I'm trying to figure out which filter system would be best to get between Catalytic Carbon or Birm.
I can't really find reviews on either, but they both look like they would get the job done.

Catalytic Carbon
Centaur catalytic carbon is a specially prepared carbon made by the Calgon corporation, for the removal of hydrogen sulfide and iron from well water, or chloramines from municipal tap water. Makes a great “whole house” filter for general city water use, especially where chloramines are used, and works well with oxidizers like air and chlorine for sulfide or iron removal. This filter costs more than the standard GAC filter above because catalytic carbon is quite expensive.

```Birm
Birm is a medium specially prepared for iron removal. It has the ability to oxidize iron, and can remove small amounts of iron without pre-treatment, but it works best following aeration. It is also effective at manganese removal. The pH must be 6.8 or above for birm to work properly.

Note: Birm should not be used on chlorinated systems.```

From the write-ups, it sounds to me like Birm is a better iron remover, but I don't want to just guess at it.
The water is coming from a well and tastes like a jar of liquid pennies.
We had a previous iron filter that wasn't designed to take out this much iron, but after adding an additional filter after it, it did take out the iron to the point where it wasn't detectable, so I know it can be filtered. That iron filter died... probably because it wasn't designed for this much iron.

Either filter system I get will have an aerator before it to oxidize the iron.


texts: LED in recessed fixture occasionally dims

texts:
My house was built in 2011 with 6 recessed fixtures in the kitchen ceiling. I replaced the original incandescent lights with CFLs first then LEDs. I replaced the CFLs after one light went out. The same fixture (which now has a LED) will occasionally dim. I have replaced the bulb and removed the insulation around the can but I still get an occasional dim light. It will not go back to full strength until after being off for some time. These lights are not on a dimmer. Has anyone had this issue before?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Charles


texts: How can I repair a broken window shade string?

texts:
The string on my pleated shade has broken and I'm having tough time in putting it back into its pulley. What’s the best way to fix it? The photos show one that is fine and working and the one that is broken and needs to be fixed.
Thanks in advance!


texts: Will improved panel grounding resolve AM radio static?

texts:
I live in a manufactured house.  I have two electrical panels--one outside on the electrical pole where the electrical meter is at and another one in a utility room in the house.  The one on the pole is grounded and I have a 4 gauge ground wire running from the outside box to the one inside.

Recently, I installed an electric tankless water heater that draws 75 amps and I'm getting static on my AM house radio every time that I turn on the hot water.  I've been told that the panel inside my house to which the heater is connected needs an 8 ft ground rod.  The heater is grounded to the panel.


texts: What is the brand of this threaded insert

texts:
This is the reverse of a Blum hinge that is no longer made. The threaded insert is broken. The screw is M5.  The 6 refers to the length of the threaded insert.
Do you recognise the logo of the threaded insert to find a replacement?
The thread goes all the way through to the other side.


texts: How to tell for sure if paint is eggshell or gloss?

texts:
There is wood panneling in my bathroom on a cabinet and bath.  I can't tell if the old paint is eggshell or gloss?

Obv if its gloss i need to sand it before painting.  So how can I tell for sure?


texts:
I used the Bathworks re-glaze kit on my bathtub.
 I did amazing prep but then I used too much paint.

The entire thing started to slide and then I got drips that I was unable to get rid of.  Now that it is dried I'm wondering if I can gently sand out the drips with fine grit.

I have read that I could sand and then follow by using a polisher with a rubbing compound.

Has anyone done this?  Tips welcome.


texts: Should I use oil primer underneath oil paint?

texts:
Is it necessary to use oil primer underneath oil paint (for trim) or can I use latex primer?
Do all primers work interchangeably with oil and latex paints?


texts: Is it okay to insulate a basement wall when an interior french drain is installed?

texts:
As I mentioned earlier, I've got some extensive repairs to make to my house following water damage from some improperly installed siding.

One of the things I discovered when I pulled the wet drywall off was that the cinderblock portion of my basement wall was not insulated. There were furring strips and nothing else. It's a split-level house, so the basement wall is half cinderblock below grade and then wood frame above grade.

There is an interior french drain that runs back to a sump pump in the basement, and there is flashing where the cement drain cover meets the wall. I'm assuming this is to allow any water that makes it to the inside side of the wall to run down the face of the wall, hit the flashing, and then enter the drain.

We bought the house with the basement finished, and for four years never noticed any water problems with any sections of the drywall. I don't think the water problem was with water coming down the walls, I think it was coming up from under the slab (the home inspector had stated that was the primary point of the french drain - to relieve water pressure under the house and not against the house.)

Now that I'm in a situation where I have to gut and re-finish the basement, is it okay to use foam insulation over the cinderblock wall? Or am I setting myself up to grow mold? Does the foam get taped to the top of the cinderblock or do I leave it open?

:EDIT:

Here's a picture of what I'd like to do, if you could imagine the cinderblock wall only extending halfway up and then a sill plate and wood framing the rest of the height.


texts: How can I install a washing machine in the kitchen?

texts: i am looking to install  only a washing machine (no drier)  in my condo under the counter in the kitchen. my brother tried to install it for me but some plumbers advised him not to just hook it up because of the plumbing system 2 inch 1 and 1/2 inch... in any way i understand the concern but i just want to know if it is possible if i hire a professional plumber can they be able to change the whole plumbing system to accommodate the washer in the kitchen ? if it is easy to do it my brother can do it but how? i appreciate any comment.


texts: How are equipment grounding conductors counted for determining conduit or junction box fill?

texts:
Suppose one is doing junction box fill calculations for a typical NM-B installation such as the one shown below for a switch box with one normal and one three-way switch. Which of the wires count towards conductor fill?

Section 314.16(B) of the 2011 NEC states (in part):

  314.16(B)(1) Conductor Fill

  Each conductor that originates outside the box and terminates or is spliced within the box shall be counted once, and each conductor that passes through the box without splice or termination shall be counted once. Each loop or coil of unbroken conductor not less than twice the minimum length required for conductors in 300.14 shall be counted twice. The conductor fill shall be calculated using Table 314.16(B). A conductor, no part of which leaves the box, shall not be counted.

and

  314.16(B)(5) Equipment Grounding Conductor Fill

  Where one or more equipment grounding conductors or equipment bonding jumpers enters a box, a single volume allowance in accordance with Table 314.16(B) shall be made based on the largest equipment grounding conductor or equipment bonding jumper present in the box. Where an additional set of equipment grounding conductors, as permitted by 250.146(D), is present in the box, an additional volume allowance shall be made based on the largest equipment grounding conductor in the additional set.

So how many conductors, and how many equipment grounding conductors are present in the box shown here?


texts:
I have a built in area that is 21.5" deep (see attached picture). I'd like to mount a TV, but I've tried finding studs in the back wall and I think there might be one around the center, does not appear to be studs anywhere else as far as I can tell (and the wall seems pretty thin to the outside so I'm not even sure the "stud" I found is an actual stud). I drilled some tiny holes and the center is the only area that gave any resistance.

My plan is to add new wood to the area outside of the wall that I will paint white and attach a TV mount to that, does anyone know what size wood I should get for that (2X4 etc)? And also how would I secure it to ensure it can support a TV mount (aka put screws into the top/bottom or some specialized way to do secure it)?

Also if anyone has a better plan to mount a TV that'd be great haha, my plan is to get a TV mount that extends very far so the TV can be wider than the built-in area.

Thanks!

Edit: Added picture, whoops!
Edit: Thanks for all of the suggestions!! I'm an idiot and I'm going to start super easy and try a mount that uses a single stud, like this bad boy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVXEW7Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4RWQRCTJ6CYV&psc=1  This place was built in the 70's so I'm not sure what codes they followed - the stud finder "found" studs on the back wall, but I drilled a tiny hole into them and 2 of the 3 had no resistance (on the far left and right), feeling decent that the center is a stud. The wall seems very thin though so I'm definitely concerned that I'll go through to the outside haha, we'll see in time. If that does happen I like the idea of mounting plywood and using that as the studs, I think plywood glued/screwed in could do the trick, the TV is only 22lbs so crazy light.


texts: Water damage in bathroom ceiling floor: how to treat and then prevent?

texts:
Water on the floor next to the bathtub in the upstairs bathroom (tile floor and tile baseboard) was allowed to sit for a half hour, then I heard drip-drip-drip in the bathroom directly below it.  We rushed to clean it up, but I was disheartened to see this:

What should I do now?  I turned off my house humidifier and cranked the heat. What else?
Should I fix it? How? Or should I leave it, figuring it is going to happen again?
How do I prevent water on the floor from seeping through so quickly?


texts: What happens if I seal my driveway on a cool day and then it rains?

texts:
What if I apply black jack 500 sealer and the temperature is between 40 and 50 degrees and it rains? We are selling a house and need to get this done right away,
The driveway has been power washed and cleaned.


texts: How to tell if old ceiling light box can support ceiling fan?

texts:
I want to replace a small hanging chandelier with a ceiling fan and am trying to figure out if the existing box can support a fan. I don't see labeling on the box itself but noticed this large rod sticking out in the center of it. Any idea what that is? Is that perhaps an indicator that it's attached to a horizontal beam that mounts into the joists?

Update: So I managed to get my scope camera up there and took a picture (see below). It looks like there is a beam that goes across and connects to the joists with 1 screw on each side and 2 staples. Do you think that is strong enough?


texts:
Recently I have been replacing my 2 prong outlets with 3 prong. I found out it is dangerous to have an open ground 3 prong. To update this to code I am wondering if it is ok to put a gfci in the most upstream receptacle of the circuit, so the ungrounded 3 prongs will be up to code and safer,
I am also wondering if the ungrounded 3 prongs that are on the gfci circuit need to be tamper resistant?
My county uses the 2014 NEC code.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
Okay, two months or so ago I had the drains in the house snaked because of slow draining at almost all of the fixture sites. After the plumber was done, everything was great, but two days ago I walked in to very wet warm carpet. First thing I thought of was, oh on the dog, but wait my dog is not that big. (It was a lot of water). Long story short, after moved the furniture out of the way, wet vac the carpet and cut a hole in the drywall, I found a big hole at the base of the cast iron drain pipe, going in to the foundation. Is there a way to fix this with out removing tie and tearing out the tub, at lest a temp fix.

Okay, it is a tight space so this what I got. The first pitcher is just the drain goin in to the foundation.  The second is not that good ether, had to get the phone in to a odd angle, but it is the best that I could do.


texts: Installing a ceiling light and rewiring switch and outlet

texts: I have a bedroom that has no ceiling light.  The bedroom is on the first floor, below our living room so there is no access from above.  There is also a light switch that controls an outlet.   I would like to install a ceiling light, controlled by that light switch and rewire it so the outlet is no longer controlled by the switch.  The switch is not directly in line with the desired  location of the light, so at some point I will need to go through a ceiling joist or a stud in the wall but I am not sure what is my best option.  As a novice who has no electrical experience beyond changing out bad switches/outlets and simply rewiring them the exact same way I found them, I would appreciate as much information as possible on this.


texts: How can i remove my rusted and stripped deck screws from my deck boards?

texts: I am planning on replacing my wood deck boards with azek..some of my deck screw are rusted and stripped.can i use a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut between my deck boards and joists to cut the screws and joist level?will this affect the screws going into the joist when i lay my azek and screw to joist using screw going into the sides of the azek?


texts: Identify source of current in phone lines and reclaim use of phone lines?

texts:
I'm trying to use a VoIP system in my home's existing phone lines, which I have little knowledge of. The two bedrooms are connected. I can hook up my Obitalk adapter in one and get a dial tone in the other room.

The kitchen is a mystery. There are two six strand UTP bundles coming through in the panel, and only one pair actually has a current running through. I can turn off the VoIP and still get current. I can turn off my breakers and still get current. I measured it at about 26 V. My impression is it's coming from either the phone company, an old security system, or something else that has a battery backup that I haven't found. I figure the phone company would have a disconnected message if I dial out. I'm not sure about security companies since I've never had one. What seems likely?

Whatever the case, I'd like to connect the kitchen so it's on the same circuit as the bedrooms. What should I be looking for to do that? I know there is an access panel in a closet which appears to have phone wire bound together with some of those twist on caps.


texts: Do I have to remove the existing 6' fence posts to install an 8' metal fence?

texts: I would like to replace a 6 foot fence with a 8 foot fence.  The current fence has metal post.  Will I have to dig up the current post or can I weld an extension to the existing post.


texts: Why is the cut using a jigsaw not a perfect straight line?

texts:
I attempted to test-cut a straight line using my new electric jigsaw. Therefore, I clamped a piece of scrap wood and used another piece as guide, marked the cut lines using a pencil and fitted the jigsaw with the blade and cut.
But my cut is like this:

As you can see, my cut is not straight and has some kind of stair-like pattern, so do you think that this blade used to cut is at fault?

Would you recommend this blade for cutting straight lines?


texts: Running easily replaceable water line underground

texts:
I'm running a trench out to my shed for electrical. I'd like to use the same trench for a water line so I can have a spigot back there, and possibly future sprinklers. I'd also like to make it fairly easily to replace if it ever freezes or develops a leak (digging through a foot of sodden clay isn't that fun).

My thought is to run the electrical in rigid metal conduit (so ~6" deep trench), and also lay down 1.5" PVC alongside it, then feed funny pipe through that. If I ever get a leak, I can just pull the funny pipe out and feed a new one in.

Any drawbacks I'm not thinking of here?


texts: Going from a PVC Sched 40 1-1/2" PIPE to a 1/2" Poly Combination Elbow

texts:
I'm new here. I have a plumbing question. I'm not a plumber by any means.

I'm trying to put together a small DYI project as a Xmas gift for a couple of family members and a couple of friends.

Its a Liquor Dispenser, similar to the ones shown below.

I'm having trouble finding the correct piece to make it work. I live in a small town so my options are limited as far as going to a store to buy pieces, but I thought with a bit of coaching from the more experienced people online, I might be able to buy the missing piece of the puzzle from an online supplier.

THE PROTOTYPE

I'll show you what I have done so far.

I have built a functional working prototype, but it is made with ABS parts.

I figured its probably not such a great idea to give these as gifts to people I know. They might not be so happy when the leeched chemicals from the ABS pipe cause growths on the sides of their neck.

No worries, It was just a prototype to see if it would work.

For that I used from top to bottom:

Spigot x Slip Joint ABS "P" Trap Adapter (works great as a bottle support)
1-1/2" ABS Coupling
1-1/2" x 1/2" ABS Dishwasher Bushing
1/2" Poly Combination Elbow
1/2" ID x 5/8 OD Nylon hose w/ clamps (not shown in photo)
1/2" Insert x 1/4" Male Pipe Thread Brass Hose Connector
1/2" Female Thread x Male Garden Hose Thread 1/2" Sediment Faucet, with Flange

THE SECOND ATTEMPT

Now I am trying the recreate that, using PVC parts. As you will see, I've run into a problem which I have circled in red. I'm not able to come up with a solution with the parts provided at any of the local hardware stores.

Here is how it looks so far:

From top to bottom I have:

About 4 inches of PVC Sched 40 1-1/2" PIPE
PVC Sched 40 1-1/2" CAP SOC (hole drilled in bottom)
1/2" Poly Combination Elbow
1/2" ID x 5/8 OD Nylon hose
1/2" Insert x 1/4" Male Pipe Thread Brass Hose Connector
1/2" Female Thread x Male Garden Hose Thread 1/2" Sediment Faucet, with Flange

THE PROBLEM

The problem I am having is going from the PVC 1-1/2" Pipe to the 1/2" Poly Combo Elbow.

I tried drilling a hole into the bottom of the 1-1/2" CAP SOC, and then threading it, but it is nearly impossible to hit the dead centre each time without a lathe, and without a proper tap tool a pain in the buttocks to thread the drilled hole. (I also can't find a proper sized tap in the entire town either. I'm forcing the threading by cramming a 3/4" bolt into it)

Is there something similar to the ABS Dishwasher Bushing that would solve my headache and at the same time replace the PVC 1-1/2" CAP SOC?

Help me... You're my only hope. (Geeky Star Wars reference)


texts: How can I get my shower tiles really clean?

texts:
My shower tiles in my apartment are kind of nasty, and I've tried spraying them with Clorox Bleach Foamer and also Tilex:Mold & Mildew and then scrubbing with a magic eraser thing.  I can try scrubbing longer/harder, but are there any tricks or techniques to make these shower tiles really clean?  (Notice the sort of stained tiles in the picture.)

Click photo for full size


texts:
I'm doing a kitchen renovation and moving the location of the sink so that the plumbing stub-outs (supply and drain) need to exit the wall one stud-bay over. I'm also replacing the old galvanized pipe existing as the vent stack in the process.

My plan was to notch out the stud (not load bearing) between the two bays,and run a short horizontal section to a 90 degree elbow, exiting the wall at the new sink location.

Are there any issues (code or practically speaking) with the 90 degree turn in the horizontal at the sink drain?

See attached photo. My proposed modification is drawn poorly in red :).


texts:
I have bought my first house. I am DIYing my kitchen renovation. I have chop block countertops from IKEA and an undermount stainless steel kitchen sink. I know its not wise to undermount with a wood countertop but my mom has a similar set up and it has looked great for the past 15 years.

I want to protect the countertop. I am using the Varathane Polyurethane for the first time "Matte Interior" applying with a Wooster Pro brush

I have been reading everyones comments on procedures etc.

Two questions:

Have I made a mistake using a water based Polyurethane?

How do I know when to dry sand VS wet sand?

I live in Florida so I have been paying attention to humidity and sanding in-between coats with 3M 400 and 1500. I am 4 applications in at the moment

I am only half way into my project and did not realize there was two kinds of polyurethane. I guess I'm only a day late and a few dollars short at this point:)


texts: 200 amp service wire size in Mason County Wa

texts: I want to know what size wire to use running underground aluminum triplex in 3" electrical conduit from PUD transformer to my above ground free standing (mounted on posts/plywood back) 100 amp service panel which will feed a 100 amp RV panel on same posted/plywood. But, I want the wire to be uprated for future 200 amp home service. So, what size should I use to ensure I have adequate wire size for a 200 amp service for a home and not have to worry about pulling new wire at a later date. From what I have read from charts in code, it says 4/0. But what I am not sure about is what the other two wire will be. Will it be 4/0 4/0 2/0 or 4/0 4/0 4/0 or something different all together. Thanks Dean


texts: Can i use decrative tile board in my shower?

texts: I am putting in a new tub and i had to take down the inside wall too replace some rotten studs.I am go'ing to put cement board on the wall.So can i put 1/8" tile board over the cement board for the final touch it claims to be water resestant? The brand name of this tile board is Decrative international.


texts: Repairing bubbling (blown) plaster on an interior wall

texts:
I have no idea what kind of wall this is. Both my walls that are near radiators have this bubbling plaster look. I have read that painting with temperature differences may cause the bubbling (such as painting in the winter and then the heater is turned on). It was recommended to paint in the summer when the windows can be left open to equilibrate the temperature as the paint dries.

Not sure what to do about the bottom. How do I repair this wall? It seems to be paint --> very thin layer of plaster --> concrete. Does the whole wall need to be taken down? Should I just scrape off the plaster and respackle? I was thinking of sanding down the bubbles, respackle, and repainting. Does the whole wall need to come off?

Bottom of wall

Top of wall


texts: How do I troubleshoot my generator and transfer switch installation?

texts:
I recently mounted a 10 circuit Transfer switch and attached about half of the wires to the electrical panel. After I start and plug in the generator, some of the circuits work fine (well pump, which is wired to 2x 20 amp terminals), some don't (refrigerator, wired to 15 amp terminal) and some partially work (oil burner, wired to 15 amp terminal, constantly clicks on/off).

When the generator was running and powering both the well pump and oil burner, the burner was clicking on/off about 6-7 times a second. After the well pump finished, the clicking slowed down noticeably to once every couple of seconds, as if there was more power available.

The circuits on the main panel are 20 amp circuits. I'm patching wires from the 15 amp circuits on the transfer station, but according to the instructions, this should be ok.

Are there any suggestions about what might be set up incorrectly and how I could start troubleshooting this?


texts: How do I properly patch a 3/4" hole in a kitchen ceiling?

texts:
We had a mishap this evening and a hole was drilled through my kitchen ceiling.  What is proper procedure/protocol to patch this hole?  We were drilling down from 2nd floor to 1st floor and the measurements were off, which led to this. It is ¾" in diameter.

How would I properly patch this hole?


texts: How can I prevent a secondary condensation drain line from dripping down the side of my house?

texts: I have 2 central AC units in my 2 story house.  From what I was told by the last AC repair man that visited, each of my ac units in the crawl space/attic has a main drain line that drains directly into one the sink drains in 2 of my upstairs bathrooms. If those drain lines get clogged, there is a secondary drain line that exits the house through the second story eaves.  So I have 2 small pipes sticking out my second story eaves. Recently one of them starter to drip water, which I guess means that one of my main drain lines is clogged. I've already made an appointment to have the that taken care of.  My question involves the secondary drain pipes.  They only stick out about 1 inch, so when the dirty A/C water does drain/drip from them it "dribbles" all down the side of my house, leaving dirty/rusty stains.  What is the best way to remedy this problem?  A small piece of hose?  Extend the drain pipe?


texts:
I'm setting up a dust collection system in my woodshop. It has lines that I mounted to the wall of 2" outer diameter PVC. I'm trying to connect one end of it to a flexible hose to use as a hand vacuum.

Common vacuum hose sizes close to this range seem to be 1 7/8" and 2 1/2".

I've found some rubber couplings that can connect to the 2" PVC, but the only options for sizes on the other end seem to be 1 1/2", 2", 3", etc.

Where can I find a proper 2" to 1 7/8" rubber coupling? Or a 2" to 1 1/2" coupling? Or is my best bet to just try to use the 2" to 2" coupling and connect it to the 1 7/8" hose?


texts: How to properly add another outlet off this box?

texts:
I am trying to add a new outlet off this box for my TV and I want to confirm that I am wiring this properly.

The outlet I am connecting to has one socket that is run off a switch. So currently the box has one white cable (with white, black, ground) coming in as well as one black cable (white, black, red, ground).

The bottom socket has constant power at this point, while the top is running off the switch.

Id like to connect a new outlet that also has constant power. Can I just pigtail my wires off the white wire coming in? Is there a better approach? Any additional information I can provide?


texts: I need to build a shelf spanning 11'6" x 30".  It is in front of a window so I can only attach it to the walls at either end.  It will need to hold about 100lbs of speakers and audio/video gear, with a 65lb tv hanging from the center of it.  How could I build a shelf strong enough to not bow and how to attach it to the walls?


texts:
I'm trying to replace a single cracked asbestos siding shingle with a new fiber cement shingle. But it seems like the way the old shingles were installed might necessitate temporarily removing all the shingles above the cracked one. I'm hoping someone can suggest a workaround whereby I don't have to fuss with a bunch of additional shingles besides the cracked one.
First off, I'm aware of precautions to take when remove asbestos siding, for example as discussed here and here.
Before starting out, I watched a video addressing a similar 1-for-1 replacement that made it look pretty easy. Just remove the nails from the existing shingle (being careful not to break it or adjacent shingles), slide it out, slide the new one in, and nail it in place.
So I went and removed the nails through the cracked shingle. But it wouldn't come free, even after removing a few nails from the overhanging shingles to allow for more wiggle room.
The lower left part of the cracked shingle was barely connected at this point, and so I gently snapped it off to get it out of the way. This revealed a lath cant strip installed overlaying the head of the shingle below, i.e. nailed through the top of the shingle below. From a little further investigation, these cant strips appear to be installed across every row of shingles. I'm familiar with these being placed at the very bottom of the siding, but not along every row.
So now it seems like to remove the one cracked shingle, I'd need to remove the cant strip overlaying its head. But to get at that strip, I'd need to remove the shingles above the cracked one. But to remove those shingles, I'd need to get at their cant strips, etc. The shingle I'm trying to replace is in the second lowest row of seven, so I'd potentially be looking at taking down around 20 shingles.
Any ideas for how to do this more efficiently?


texts: I used Pex cinch clamps on my baseboard hot water heating and system. The system is about 7 years old. I have had 2 different clamps break and the water dripped on my floor. Are the cinch clamps the type to use or should they all be changed out for the copper compression type? I’m thinking the expansion of the SS clamp is different than the fitting causing them to split.


texts: Where to place wrenches to remove hose bib

texts:
I am trying to replace a hose bib on the outside of my house (first time doing this) and it's not 100% clear to me where to detach it.
It looks to me like they put a female to male adapter on the pipe then attached the hose bib to that. It's hard to tell but I think the existing hose bib has male threads on it. My new one has female threads.
I know you need to use two wrenches, one to remove the hose bib (or in this case the adapter) and another to keep the pipe itself from turning inside the wall.
I have annotated a picture with the spots where I think each wrench should go.
If somebody could verify that for me, I'd appreciate it.

Update 12/22/2020
Here is what we ended up with:

Thanks for all the help.


texts: How do I force a tight globe-valve water shutoff to fully close?

texts:
I tried to close off the water valve (a multi-twist globe-valve) leading to my back-yard water supply (the shutoff valve is inside the house) but it will not twist fully shut.  Is it safe to give the screw a shot of WD-40 to loosen up the valve?  Will that help?

Note: the valve is not leaking so I don't want to replace it.  I am just trying to shut off the water supply for the winter.


texts: Reinforce aluminum pipe attached to wood posts in fence

texts:
I recently installed a fence where the posts are 4" x4" pressure-treated wood with an aluminum pipe rail, similar to this: fence

and this, but without the wood rail: fence with wood rail

I use a member's suggestion and used PVC end caps. The pvc end caps are snug, but they can come off. The same thing with the aluminum pipe inserted in the pvc end cap.

Essentially, the aluminum pipe isn't doing anything to add strength to the fence, and I would like to change that.

Is there any adhesive that I can use to secure each end of the aluminum pipe to the pvc end cap, and the pvc cap to the wood post? Thanks

Or if anyone has any other suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Hi I have a table that was burned from a hot pan and I'm wondering if anyone knows any solutions and roughly how much it would cost to remove the burn marks. I'm attaching photos you'll see the tiny black spots around the knot in the wood.


texts: How can I improve this deck ledger and the flashing around my ledger?

texts:
I'm planning to replace the current warped ledger board with a new one new using galvanized lag bolts.

How can I protect the exposed black paper and OSB between the two vents?
Is more flashing needed on the bottom of the ledger?
Any other tips?


texts:
One of the sliders on one of the cabinets in our kitchen has been bent (kid fell on it). I've searched for "DTC 533 soft close slider" (DTC 533 can be seen on the slider below) to try and find a replacement, but the results I get back are all over the place.
What exactly should I be searching for in looking to replace this? Is DTC an actual brand (I found this DTC website that would imply yes, but I don't see how to actually buy anything from them)? What does 533 in this stand for? I'm just not sure what information I need to be assessing terms of finding a replacement that matches the damaged part as closely as possible
Some images:


texts:
I'm replacing the hard line to the garbage disposal. Instead of the hard line i'm installing an outlet. The box where the garbage disposal switch is located has two circuits in it. One is for the disposal and the other is for an outlet.

The wiring in my house is soldered. With the old wiring all the grounds were brought together to a single spot, soldered together and a lead came out to ground the GFCI outlet. Now that i'm replacing the line and the switch (which now also has a grounding point, the old one did not) i need to connect. If I can help it I would rather not disturb the soldering.

I'm thinking, leave a lead to the soldered bundle, then tie all the new grounds to the lead. Would this be up to code or do I need only a single ground bundle?

PS I live in Ohio USA.


texts: How can I reduce noise from an air handler unit in an open closet?

texts:
How can I reduce the noise from an air handler unit?

I have a Goodman AR42-1 air handler unit in an open closet.  The setup looks like this:

When the air handler activates it sounds like this:

https://youtu.be/XTcLtrniQB8

Current sound levels:

Everything off:           36 dB
A/C on and inside closet: 63 dB
A/C on with door closed:  59 dB
A/C on in Living Room:    55 dB

Similar Questions

How do I reduce the noise from my forced air furnace? - recommends lining ducts with fiberglass

Is there any way to make my furnace quieter without replacing - recommends 1/2" rubber attached to the blower.

Home Soundproofing- recommends replacing a part of the duct with sound absorbing flexible duct or replacing a 6" section of the plenum with a rubber boot.

sound reduction in a condo HVAC closet - reduced fan speed, covered door except for vent with 1/2" of homastate.


texts: How to block a window with plywood for big wall to project a movie?

texts:
I have a kids' playroom with a big wall and a center window. I want to use this wall as a home theater projector screen. I don't want to block the window permanently with a fixed screen, and my existing rolling screen is a smaller one.

So I am trying to block the window with temporary plywood from Lowe's and paint the plywood along with the wall with a white screen painting to play movies.
I want the plywood to be easily removable when I am not playing movies, as I don't want to miss the ventilation when kids are playing in that room.

What are some options for this? I mean, would buying an exact size of plywood and painting that with matching wall color be a good idea?


texts: Can you help me identify what sash lock key and bolt I need?

texts:
I live in a rented apartment on the ground floor of a council building in London.

As I live on the ground floor I'd love to have some extra security on the sash windows. The agency has no clue what type of locks are installed so I am hoping you can give me some help based solely on pictures.

I've tried these ones with no success. This [Edina Sash Stop Lock] and this look promising; The shape of the stop on the lower sash makes me think it could be a Yale WS1, but maybe you can identify them without me trying them out one by one.

Any leads are helpful!


texts:
I just moved into a new apartment and they have a 25"x 15" pre-built wall sleeve for a wall AC unit. Not knowing the difference, I purchased the extravagantly less expensive window AC unit that has exhausts on the side and on the back. Realizing this, I figured that (with some internet searching) the unit may heat up because it isn't exhausting properly. If I have 1" on each side of the AC in the wall sleeve, is it good enough for exhaustive purposes?

Also, what would you do for affordable cooling on a first floor apartment with a 750 ft^2, 2 BR, apartment?


texts: How can I attach a keyboard tray to a desk that is 1/2" thick?

texts:
I went for the cheaper desk option, and the desk works great and is sturdy (has solid support). Want to add a keyboard tray to it but the screws on it are about 3/4" long. So now I've got a problem (I know, that's what I get for getting the cheap desk).

I'm trying to think of ways to attach this keyboard tray to the desk. I could add a small block of wood underneath and secure it on the top of the desk, and then attach the keyboard to that. Just don't have enough experience with this stuff.

What are some ways I can attach the keyboard to a desk that is too thin?

Edit: I'm new to Home Improvement, have been on Stack Overflow for awhile now.


texts: US Building Codes - Do I need a handrail on this initial section of stairs?

texts:
I realize that building codes tend to vary by jurisdiction, but I'm wondering, in general, do I need a hand railing and/or guardrail on this initial section of stairs as shown in orange?  My hope is that because the section is less than 4 stairs, and under 30" I do not, but I'm not sure if because it's connected to a landing that is connected to other stairs, it requires a continuous railing to the end.

This is in an accessory building (workshop).

Thanks for your time.


texts:
Replacing mercury thermostat with wifi.  I have just a red and white wire connected to current thermostat and boiler.  There is a green present, but it isn't hooked to anything on boiler.  So I can use the green if I can identify the common on the boiler.   I think I've found the blue common, but would like to confirm.  I believe I just need to connect the green wire to the wifi thermostat and to the bottom post of the first picture,  Green would then be my common.  Am I on the right track?
My thermostat wiring is routed through several pumps, but final connection is here on the boiler.

Inside, a blue wire is connected to the bottom terminal of above picture (circled in blue on left), but there is also a red wire connected to that post.  Circled on the right side is the blue wire connecting to post numbered 6.


texts: Turn triple window into one bow window, structural concern?

texts:
I have a very old window probably from the beginning of this house in 1970's. Now I want to replace this old aluminum window with a bow window. my question is there are two posts of the triple window. Are they  structural elements? Are they part of this triple window or the builder added them there to fit the aluminum double hungs?
The whole opening is as big as 120" X 56 3/4" I wonder the reason they put it there when they built this house. The window frame gave some support?
Thanks in advance.


texts: What's the easiest process for cutting bathroom flooring tiles to fit complex door trim?

texts:
I'm going to be laying in some fairly heavy-duty vinyl bathroom flooring tiles (similar to the Armstrong Caliber product, although I'm not sure it's actually that brand). The bathroom has some tough corners to match, which I will cover with molding, but also has some places where the doorway trim goes through the floor, and so I have to try to trim to the profile of the trim.

Are there any good ways to do this (short of removing the trim and sing it as a template)?  With lighter-weight linoleum I would probably just use a box-cutter to try to make the cuts - is there a better tool to use for this material?


texts: I have kitchen lights using 12v 5w leds (GU 5.3). There is a 30w 12v led power supply. When switching off, then back on, the lights flash. Any ideas please. There are 2 sets in the room, they both do the same. Leave it 10 minutes, then its fine...All connections are tight, no dim switches anywhere. Your thoughts please...


texts: Hanging a new ceiling fan - space around junction box

texts:
Need help determining if I'm following the right steps, or if I need to get an electrician to install a new junction box.
I had an old Hunter fan/light combo.  I am trying to replace with a House of Hampton fan/light.
First issue: junction box has two long screws coming down from the ceiling that the original fans mounting bracket was connected to. The new mounting bracket was, of course, too wide.  I purchased a cross bar and connected that.
Second issue: The crossbar aligns to the holes on the new mounting bracket, but the screws for the mounting bracket don't screw into the ceiling.  I'm concerned the fan will fall from the mounting bracket, not from the cross bar.  See pictures attached.  The pictures show the crossbar and the mounting bracket attached to the crossbar (note, I may have attached the crossbar incorrectly, based on other research I've done). You can also see the space in between the sides of the junction box and the drywall. The edge of the drywall is very crumbly and the width of holes in the mounting bracket actually falls in the spaces.
Any help on what I should do is appreciated.  I would prefer not to hire someone. :)
[


texts: Dual relay motion sensor, only one relay active?

texts:
I have a bathroom with a fan and a light in it, the light is on one switch and the fan on another. Since the fan was an add on, they were put in a single gang box with two switches.

I want to make it so the fan is motion sensor activated, but the light not (too bright when you get up in the middle of the night). I've seen dual relay motion sensors out there, but to override the motion, you have to actually let the light come on. Is there some way to make it so only one relay is motion active(the fan) and the other manual only?


texts: Trying to replace a cracked light switch for my bathroom lighting

texts: The existing light switch once I removed it from the junction box has three black wires. There is no white nor green for ground connected to the existing switch. I see white wires bundled in the back of the box. I'm not sure how to rewire this safely.


texts: What would be the best configuration for casters for a workbench?

texts: I'm planning to build a movable workbench and I was curious what the best setup for casters would be. I was thinking 1 locking at each corner, but that looks a bit overkill. Are two locking casters enough to keep the table in place? What about using chocks instead? The pricing of locking vs. non-locking casters is fairly high so I'm looking for a more economical solution. Also, is there configuration of 1 at each corner appropriate or should I consider adding a fifth caster in the center?


texts: Compound mortise and tenon joints on corners (ie. legs of a table)

texts:
I am playing around with the idea of doing a workbench that can be disassembled, using pinned mortise and tenon joints. I haven't found anything that could be used where two spans meet at a corner (leg) and be able to pin each one with a removeable pin.

I had a bit of a play around in Sketchup today and below is what I came up with - but I really want to know if this method would weaken the joins to the point where it's not worth doing?

The idea is that the pin on the end of the component on the right would pin the component on the left, therefore to assemble you would first slide the tenon on the left in, then the tenon on the right, then the pin through the tenon on the right to hold it all in place. Disassembly would be in the exact reverse.

Note that the pin to go through the hole on the component on the right is missing, but would have to be something that was either wedged or other to ensure it didn't move.

Also note that these will be 2x4 hardwood, for strength considerations.


texts:
My sewer service line backs up about once or twice a year.  When the plumber comes to unblock it, he finds tree roots in the line.  The thing is, the only tree that has grown over the line was cut down at least eight years ago, before I moved into the house.  The stump has been ground out and there is no evidence above ground that there was a tree there.

The plumber says this is not unusual for the roots of a tree to keep growing after the tree is removed, but he hadn't seen one last that long.  Cleaning up after a backup is a pain, so I'm wondering if there's anything else that can be done to ameliorate the situation, short of replacing the line or digging up the yard in search of these roots.


texts: How should I run speaker, HDMI and electrical wiring for my ceiling mounted projector theater room?

texts:
BACKGROUND:

New house built 5 years ago.  I have a basement theater room with 12 foot drywall ceilings that have HVAC conduit and recessed lighting (in other words there is some space behind/above the drywall).  I have a projector I need to ceiling mount and a surround sound system to run front and rear speakers.

I plan to have the projector in the ceiling and the other electronics (receiver, etc) off to the side of the room on the ground (receiver cabinet).  So I need to run power and HDMI from the receiver cabinet to the projector as well as speaker wire from the receiver cabinet to the four corners of the room.  I have a 25 foot HDMI, speaker wire and an indoor/outdoor extension cord.

QUESTION:

My primary concern is how to run the HDMI and power to the projector.  Should I run some sort of conduit or channel in the ceiling (exposed or hidden) -- like a server room runs ethernet cable?  If behind the wall, is it safe/code to run an extension cord behind the drywall in the ceiling to power the projector?

I may run the speaker along the baseboard simply to avoid extensive wiring/holes in my ceiling so I'm less concerned about how to do that.


texts:
I am painting the room in our basement that contains the electrical panel. I think it would look a lot better to paint the panel the same color as the wall, instead of the plain grey-green metal. I've heard that it's against code (USA) to paint the electrical panels, but I wasn't sure why. It's my own house and we don't rent it out, so I'm not too worried about the code violation.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't paint the electrical panel, and are there any problems I should watch for when painting it? The panel is brand new with no rust, so I will likely need to roughen the surface with sandpaper first.


texts: Splitting 150amp Service (midwire) from home at 100amps

texts: How do I split 150 amp wire to have a hundred amp service continued in the house and at 80 amps to a separate cabin?


texts: I live in a house that was built in the 1950's. It has wooden kitchen cabinets that have been painted from the looks of them alot of times. I know I have painted them twice. Every time I paint them the paint comes off in some spots you can actually peel it off. Then around where the handles are they get all scratched up and you can see the old paint. I'm using a semi gloss paint. I want to paint them again. Can you please give me some advice on what to do. Or what I am doing wrong? I really want this to be the last time I have to paint them.


texts: Anyone recognize this faucet? How to remove these faucet handles?

texts:
I'm trying to remove these bathroom faucet handles. There are no screws anywhere on the outside surface.
Is it just a matter of prying them off, either using a screwdriver or just pulling up on the knobs really hard? Or should I try turning the knobs the wrong way?
I don't want to force it, so I figured I'd ask first.
Does anyone recognize the make / model? It would be good to know what replacement parts I'd need to buy before I disassemble it.


texts: How is installing roof sheathing horizontally stronger than vertically?

texts:
Prompted by a comment in this answer:

What is better for a roof, plywood or OSB?

Why is it stronger to install roof sheathing horizontally?  Yes, it ties in more rafters, but in what manner is that stronger?


texts: Shower fixture close to above lighting fixture

texts:
What is the golden rule to a canned light fixture close to the shower head.

With all the splashing from washing hair it looks really close.  I think I am going to have contractor just close it up.


texts: How do I build the support structure for a 36"x14' built-in desk?

texts:
I would like to build a 36 in deep desk into a 14ft wide space that has floor to ceiling windows along the back. My initial idea is put cleat plates on the side walls, then run a 2x6 joist at 12 in from the back, and another 2x4 joist along the front edge. The cleat plate will be anchored with 1/2x4 in lag bolts into existing wall studs. I plan on 3/4 in plywood for the surface. I would like to finish with a laminate sheet on top, and a bullnose trim piece along the front edge.

The load is basic office stuff, laptops, monitors etc. Visually I want to avoid legs or brackets if at all possible, and the 2x6 joist location is limited by some rolling file cabinets.

Will this be rigid enough to prevent the laminate from coming unglued? Is this enough framing to support the load if I choose a paint/stain finish instead of laminate?


texts: What is the life expectancy of an air conditioning unit with a booster?

texts: Over the weekend my wife and I lost our air conditioning.  I called a technician out to the house and he replaced both the fan motor and the capacitor.  He also had to install a booster to help get my compressor turned over.  I know this solution won't last forever but I was wondering how long my wife and I should have to be able to save up for a new unit.


texts: Why are there two layers of dry wall in my ceiling, and how can I patch it?

texts:
The fan in my bathroom died. We bought a replacement that's a bit bigger. The original was nailed to a beam in the ceiling and required me to cut out some drywall to remove.

When removing the old fan, the air duct came loose. I need to open up the ceiling a little more to reattach that to the where ever it was attached originally.

I'm gonna have to put in a piece of drywall ~18"x36". How in god's name can you do more than just fill in little holes when you have no studs to lay new drywall directly onto? And how was this drywall attached to begin with!?


texts: Drill hole through thick wall for TV cable

texts: I want to drill a hole in the wall to pass tv cable from one room to adjacent room. My drill bit has small length. If I want to drill from both sides of the wall, how to mark the hole to match it in between.


texts: Halogen light stops working when cover is installed

texts:
I have an under-counter halogen light (jc / g4, 12 watts) that doesn't work.

If I remove the glass safety cover (might be called the lens) from the light socket then the light works fine, and will illuminate when I flip the switch.  As soon as I replace the safety cover, the light stops working again.

The cover is made of glass, with a metal circle at its outer edge.  The cover attaches to the socket by three L-shaped metal arms.

If I power on the light with the safety cover attached, it produces no light, but it makes a quiet clicking noise, about 1 click per second.

Does anyone know what's going wrong here, or how to fix it?


texts: How do I safely remove/deactivate these switches wall sconces and outlet?

texts:
We want to remove these wall sconces (there are two of them) and patch up the wall.  We may want to still use the switched outlet.

If I want to keep the switched outlet how should I re-wire?

If I also want to removed the switched outlet how should I rewire?

Is it safe to keep the junction box there and push all the wires into the wall and patch up?
That seems like it could be dangerous bc someone might drill into the hole later and hit live wires!


texts: Primer cracks once it begins to dry over new Drydex spackling

texts:
Good afternoon,

We are currently working on repainting a bedroom and removed all the items from the wall(pictures, vanity, mirror etc). We completed this and then proceeded to use DryDex 16 oz. Dry Time Indicator Spackling Paste to cover up the holes/issues on the drywall. We then sanded once it was completely dry (24 hours), and wiped down the walls with a wet rag really well so there was no extra dust. We then proceeded to apply Kilz Primer (latex based) to the wall. After a few hours we noticed that the entire area we had applied kilz to that was over the spackling, was peeling!

We then tried to sand off the peeling pieces, re-spackle the areas that needed it, re-sand/clean off dust, and re-prime to the same results.

Currently at a loss of why this is happening. Both the Drydex and Kilz are brand new from the store. Bedroom is a casual household temperature (68-72). House was built in 1968 if that helps at all. What are we doing wrong and what can we do to be able to lay down paint and have a decent looking wall again? Every site I have seen doesn't seem to have a solid answer or one that we haven't tried (listed below). Thank you.

We have tried to re-do our work thinking there was a layer of dust on it.
We have sanded off the peeling pieces, re-spackle the areas that needed it, re-sand/clean off dust, applied a wall texture component to it, then primer with the same peeling results


texts: Priming spackling in preparation for repainting room

texts:
We are painting a room that was previously painted, however there 2 areas approx. 5"x2' that required some re-tapping and spackling to fix cracks in the drywall.

The already painted non-fixed areas as I understand do not require a coat of primer, however I figured that all the newly fixed areas will require a coat of primer. Will priming one area, but not priming the entire room (as 98% of the room doesn't require it) affect the final paint-job?

Current paint: yellowish-orange
primer: white (obviously)
new paint color: beige


texts: I would like to run 3 separate 120 volt items 10.2 max amp per item using 3 separate circuits, but only have a single switch box to use. I have seen single circuit in 3 switch out, but want 3 in 3 out. Does anyone make this?