texts: Building a Workstation (Piano Keyboard) PC DESK with MDF

texts:
I am in the process of building a new desk. The table top will be about 175cm. There will be 2 simple shelf cabinet so one on each side. But in between the 2 cabinets, there will be another desk drawer slider so I can slide my keyboard out.

I want to keep this project under £110 as this includes a circular saw which will be about £40.

Now while I would live to use wood such as Oak or pine, it's too expensive.

I was thinking of using plywood but that is pricey as well. Now I am thinking of using MDF since it is pretty cheap.

However, the main issue is I read the MDF board will sag, I thinking of using 18mm board.

Question: If I build a timber frame to support the desk, and using MDF as table top over the frame, will this be fine since the desk is being supported by timber?
If not, do you think I should use plywood, if so, can someone recommend a place that delivers cheaply in the UK and is cheap, would need 2 large sheets since the length will need to be at least 1800mm by 600mm.
Also, will there be any issues if I use wood screws, drilling pilot holes, or will the boards split?

Also I am planning to buy 2 sheets of MDF, from 2400mm x 1220mm x 18mm depth. These sheets will be huge and heavy. I can get these two for £34.
What I am planning to do it take the measurement to the store so they can cut out the pieces, that way I can drive it myself.

I will also buy Timber boards to make the frame and Pine for brackets.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.


texts: How do I separate two 3-way switches to control lights separately?

texts:
I have a porch light and three outside lights, along the garage, controlled by two three-way switches.

One switch is inside by the front door and I would like this one to control the front porch light. The other switch is in the garage and I would like for this one to control the lights along the garage.

The house is only two years old. Can you help me with a fix for this?


texts: What do I use to fix down a shower tray?

texts:
I've tiled the floor of my new en-suite. I've bought a plastic shower tray, which says that it should be stuck down with adhesive.

Do I use normal grab adhesive? Or do I use tile adhesive?

I want to make sure the tray is well stuck down: it doesn't sit quite flat on the tiles so I plan on weighing it down at the ends while the adhesive cures, with the hope that when I take the weights off later it doesn't bend back up.


texts: How to hang a baby cradle from a concrete ceiling?

texts:
I am considering buying a baby cradle that will hang from the ceiling. We have a concrete ceiling in the apartment and I am not sure that it will be possible to install it safely. It needs to be able to support 35-40 pounds of weight, max.

I was planning to use a Tapcon® concrete screw - is it a good idea?
How to actually connect the bag to that screw - I would need some kind of intermediary platform/connector.
When drilling a hole in the ceiling, does it matter where to drill, or should I use some kind of stud finder to look for a support beam (if they exist in concrete ceilings)?

The cradle comes with a hook, but I am not sure if it will hold.


texts: Who to call for fireplace ducting safety check and repair?

texts:
The home we recently purchased, built in 1974, has a Martin BWH-36A Octa-Therm fabricated fireplace.

A chimney sweep informed us that this fireplace is no longer manufactured, but our chimney is in good shape. However, its blower fans ("circulating air inlets" in the image below) weren't working.

We called in an electrician and got the fans working. However, upon opening the blower grates, the electrician found that the ductwork openings were stuffed with insulation.

We cleared out the insulation around the blower fans. Then, on a hunch, we checked the upper and outside air inlets and outlets: they're all stuffed with insulation as well.

I found a copy of the manual, linked above, at the National Chimney Sweep Guild (NCSG) Manual Library's 'M' page.

Here's an image from the 1st page. We've checked the 6 openings shown in the image:

Who would we call now to check and test that all the ductwork is in good shape, clear, and safely usable???

EDIT:
I'm not asking for a service recommendation; rather I'm asking for what kind of professional would check the ducting.

I would've thought a chimney sweep would do that, but he didn't seem interested. The electrician clearly wouldn't do ducting. Should I try a different chimney sweep? Or, do I call an HVAC professional? Or, ...???

UPDATE:
Contacted our fire department, as suggested. They didn't have any information on contractors. Per their experience, though, they stated that, since stuffed with insulation, the fireplace probably has hidden issues. We should not use it till we find a builder or other specialist to literally pull the firebox, et al, out and inspect it. Ugh.


texts: I need to pour a concrete porch above the outside wall stucco screed level. What kind of barrier(s) do I need?

texts: Pouring concrete porch against stucco wall above screed level. What kind of barrier(s) do I need?


texts: Hand-Spray Bidet Connection didn't work due to smaller existing pipes

texts: just received my hand spray bidet set i ordered online. After trying to connect the set, the existing pipes found on the installed bidet are smaller than the T-valve connecters. Both the female thread and the main water supply pipe. Can anyone please help with what type of connections i might need to install it properly. The images below might show exactly what i am facing. Many thanks


texts: Why is this switch box wired like a 3-way when there's no other switch?

texts:
I have a switch box that has two 12/3 cables coming into it. This switch controls a wall outlet (both top/bottom) that has a 12/2 coming in. There is no ground for switch or outlet. At the switch, black wires are spliced together and red wires are spliced together and connected to switch. 2 white wires are pigtailed.

My big picture task is to take off switch control for outlet and replace switch with a dimmer for new recessed lighting (pulling power somewhere from circuit).

My confusion is that there is no other switch controlling the outlet or any other light/fan to be found. Yet again, the outlet only has a 12/2 coming in so I must be missing a junction somewhere.

Why is the switch wired with two 12/3?

Any thoughts appreciated.

NOTE: 2 PIGTAILED WHITE WIRES IN BACK OF BOX


texts: How, and how often should I clean a freezer?

texts:
My fridge/freezer has been turned on and running since I last moved house several years ago.  I clean the shelves/bins in the fridge every couple of months, or when something is spilled, but the freezer hasn't been cleaned for ages.   It doesn't particularly smell bad and it's not iced up, but there is a bit of that 'freezer smell'.

Should I clean it?

Is there any worthwhile cleaning procedure other than removing all the food and letting it come up to room temperature?


texts:
I have a small closet (4x6) that I use to house my AV equipment (receiver/consoles/etc).  This works great, but as the closet is in an upstairs room it gets quite warm in the summer.  I would like to add a ventilation fan to that closet to exhaust some of the heat, but would prefer to avoid adding another exterior vent on the house.

I know venting bathroom/kitchen exhaust into attic is a bad plan due to moisture issues, but I am wondering if it would be OK in this case.  The only air venting from the room would be warm dry air.

Any thoughts on just sticking a basic bathroom fan up their and venting into open space above the insulation (attic does have its own vents)?


texts:
I have a 4" cast iron sewer pipe in a concrete floor basement dating to 1910.

I can't figure out how it is configured. Here is what is visible:

The connection to the house drains is cast iron pipe about 5' long that slopes down into the concrete of the basement. It connects up to a vertical cleanout which might be part of a U or P-shaped trap, but if so it is buried in concrete below and not visible. Then nearby in the well is sloping cleanout. I cannot figure out how these might be connected because they are are at different angles.

The cast iron is 100 years old and probably should be replaced with new pipe, but I am not sure how to configure the new pipe. Should I just start jack hammering the concrete away to expose all the existing pipe so I can see where it goes?


texts: House with many cracked external wall bricks

texts:
I saw a house recently, approx. 20-30 years old in the London area. I cannot say if it has double tied cavity walls or it is the cheaper version which is essentially a wooden house with a single brick wall surrounding it.

There were many thin cracks in the bricks, easily 40 per wall. Nearby houses made of a different type of brick didn't appear to have many.

Would this be a problem or would that normally only be a case for potential worry if there are continuous cracks including the mortar?


texts: Single neutral bus bar in subpanel with 2 columns of breakers?

texts:
(Questions in bold at the bottom)

I recently purchased a Siemens E0816ML1125S load center for use as a subpanel in my basement:

I installed a ground bus bar, located horizontally under where the breakers snap in.

As I began wiring it, I realized that most breaker boxes I've seen have two bus bars with a crossover shunt between the two neutrals (in addition to a ground bar).  But the Siemens box doesn't have a mounting location for the second neutral bus bar.

So one option would be to mount a second bus bar on the left side, using some sort of plastic standoffs (it being a subpanel, I want to isolate neutral and the grounded box here).  But is it acceptable/common to just use the terminals on the right side neutral bus, even for circuits whose breaker will be on the left?

Is the eventual messy wiring acceptable?

Thanks.


texts:
Not-so-recent leak finally being patched out has continued to expose Glidden paints peeling in random places.
This house was covered in wall paper. When we bought it I spent a full month removing all remaining wall paper, sponging down the walls to get glue/sizing, and then cleaning the walls thoroughly. No problems with any paint there.
I'm guessing that the Previous Owner (PO) either hired someone to rip it down or did it themselves, didn't remove the sizing, and instead skim-coated with generic wall compound. Either way, it's coming off and the paint is ripping off in pieces. I can't tell if they even primed, to be honest.
I can not afford to 'deal with this' now. I'm guessing the stand by of 'sand it until the compound comes off'.
What other solutions might be possible that you could offer as suggestions?
Thanks kindly. Frustrating day.
Edit: I spent some time staring at it and thinking like the lazy PO. And then I took some measurements. And then I really looked at the wall.
I'm guessing 3 things happened.

They replaced part of the wall board at some point, prior to to wall paper. They used green board (waterproof).
They used pre-made mud that had either been thinned or something added that broke the bonding- I can keep rubbing the material and it falls apart. Unlike the mix, it's not strong.
The 2nd outlet is installed in a new work box.
there is a bad seam at 4' from a window (right by the casing).
I see yellow mesh tape

So... a very sharp spackle knife at an edge with a 45 degree 'slice' let me get off most of the paint down to the mud. The mud is scraped or wiped off, as much as possible. The paint does not appear to have been primed, or it was a paint/primer combo (useless crap).
The board is broken at the edge of the counter, saying they've never mudded or taped it to the lower drywall. I can also detect wall paper below it. Something to fix later.
After scraping the wall for for a couple of hours on and off (this is 4'x3' area!) I'm putting a light skim coat of 90 minute over the bad areas after scuffing. This I'll sand flat. I can't fix all of it but I can at least prime this to make it look somewhat presentable to get the kitchen back in order.
No, homedepot, you can't help and people can't do it.


texts: Identifying neutral and ground in breaker box

texts:
Short version: In this breaker box to install a 14-50R would I run both ground and neutral to the same bus bar on the right?

Long version: This breaker box is directly beneath the meter outdoors in a modular home I purchased. I'm wiring an outdoor 14-50R receptacle into the existing 50 amp breaker in the photo and so far as I can tell I'll be tying the ground and neutral to the same bus bar on the right side of the picture. I know I should consult a licensed electrician and electricity is dangerous, just looking for a relatively simple answer.


texts: How can I remove chalk line stain and clean concrete residue?

texts:
I hired a cut rate concrete contractor to redo my driveway because all the bigger firms were too busy. He did a decent job, but he did a couple things that I now need to fix since the chances of seeing him again are about zero.

First, he used red chalk line to mark his cuts on the slab-- it rained the next day and now I have red stains all over my driveway. I tried scrubbing with simple green and using a power washer, but the stains are still there. Is there any way to clean this?

Second, he was just plain sloppy when pouring the cement, and splashed the mud on the aluminum siding of my garage. How can I remove the cement from the aluminum siding without scratching it up or needing to repaint it?

Finally, he and left small rough areas on the already screeded slab where his "helper" walked on it and didn't re-screed. Can I use a sanding disk to sand down the rough areas on the slab?


texts:
I'm building this circular staircase in Ontario Canada in a residential home. And am looking for some advice to make sure I'm meeting code. There seem to be lots of parameters when it comes to requirements.

Stringers will be glued and laminated once rough framed.

Do these steps meet code?

I've attached screenshots of my CAD designs. Any help is appreciated.


texts: Is there a permanent fix for my hardwood floor buckling?

texts: I have a hardwood floor that was built on a slab; I fixed the buckle nicely once already, now the buckle is back.  What do I have to do to permanently fix this problem?


texts: I have aluminum 12 2 wiring i want to add an extra light Daisy chain what gauge/amp copper wire do i use for a 3 ft span, i will be using alumiconns

texts:
Adding 1 extra light total of 2 on circuit. Need to know what gauge of copper wire to add to aluminum 12-2 gauge 3’ span.

I will use AlumiConn connectors


texts: Can I install a photocell on a 3-way switched circuit?

texts:
I have a set of front exterior lights on my house which are controlled by two 3-way switches, one in the garage and one in the front entry way. I would like to install a photocell so that I can leave the circuit on all the time and let the photocell decide when to switch the lights on and off.

I'm finding it very difficult to find a diagram of a photocell in a 3-way light switch circuit. Does anyone know if this is possible; and, if it is, what should the circuit look like? I've looked at various photocells online and they all seem to have three wires coming from them (red, white, and black).

Also, does it matter where the photocell is installed in the circuit? The circuit I'm interested in adding the photocell to has 4 fixtures on it between the two switches. I noticed that the photocells have a maximum wattage rating. I plan on using LED lights in these fixtures to keep the wattage down below the maximum rating of the photocell.


texts:
I've recently been told that my furnace, which is about 20 years old, is on it's last stretch and that I should consider replacing it now rather than waiting for it to fail - potentially at a very inconvenient time.

That said, it seems rather hard to find useful comparative information online about furnaces (with prices) since most of it is just advertising and marketing. So, what should I look for when choosing the furnace? And where can I get educated on the different brands available (perhaps with tier information)?

My place is a 2 bedroom coach-house (i.e. single floor unit in a 4-unit condominium building) and about 1200 sqft.

The HVAC system is forced-air, natural gas and is blowing-down.


texts: How do I add 2 AFCI circuits to my panel?

texts:
My electrical inspector told me I have too many devices on my basement circuit. Which is accurate :)
I need 2 additional AFCI circuits for: laundry room and basement receptacles. Problem is, my panel looks pretty full, and I don't think they make AFCI breakers for my panel...  inspector told me easiest way was probably to add a sub-panel.
Could you guys help me fit 2 AFCI circuits? or how to fit sub-panel for new circuits?
Some helpful details:
Main panel is ITE BL Loadcenter, 200A service. In the photos you'll see two 20A breakers switched off.  They are labelled A/C, but I don't have an A/C.  I haven't noticed anything missing power since switching that off. I have no idea where those wires go, so can probably use that spot.
For a sub-panel, I'd like to future proof with a 100A, but I haven't found a 100A breaker for my ITE panel. Let me know if you can find a compatible breaker!
Any alternative solution would be great too!
Current setup, all on one basement circuit:

8 general purpose receptacles (needs AFCI),
2 general purpose light boxes (does NOT need AFCI),
16 LED pot lights (does NOT need AFCI),
1 receptacle for kitchen fridge (does NOT need AFCI),
1 receptacle for laundry machine (needs AFCI) (and this one laundry receptacle apparently needs to be separate circuit :(

The current plan is to keep all basement lights and fridge receptacle on existing non-AFCI circuit.  Then add AFCI circuits for all basement receptacles + laundry receptacle.
I think 12 devices is max. Maybe I can just add one AFCI circuit for laundry and have all 16 LED pot lights count as 1 device since they are known, low load... will have to ask inspector, but that still requires at least +1 AFCI circuit.
Photos:


texts: How do I drywall when the studs are not flush?

texts: I have a problem with my bathroom. I recently had someone come and switch the door from the kitchen side to the other side while redoing my kitchen. He did a great job and the kitchen looks great. That being said he used new studs to re-frame the wall and those studs are smaller than the 2x4's used 100 years ago on the original bathroom. I do not know how to correct this issue while dry-walling.... Any suggestions would be great! Thank you i have provided a picture.


texts: How can I repair leaks in an underground home's roof?

texts: I live in a 1400 sq ft underground home.  It was built in 1980's.  We have recently started to get leaks in ceiling slab.  Small but still leaks. The outside of the roof is 24 inches of dirt 2 inch Styrofoam the 8 inch slab. How do I go about fixing this from the inside or do I uncover the roof.  Then what do I do? Where do I get the product?


texts: Removal of light switch. Power only to front light, no power to outlets or anything else

texts:
We wanted to install a security camera in the front porch and as a component of that we needed constant power to the front door which is currently controlled by a light switch.

That light switch was 1 of 3 and was the right most. The middle was a 3 pole switch and the third was a regular light switch. We removed the first switch by connecting the hot and line switched to each other. There was what we think is a ground attached to the side of the switch but when it was all completed. Only the front light had power. All the rest of the outlets and switches in the circuit had none. Any ideas where we could have gone wrong?

Image of the switch we removed and its wiring

Back of the switch we removed with what i think is the ground wire disconnected

Wiring of the adjacent switch


texts: Why is my kitchen faucet dripping even after water is shut-off?

texts:
Kitchen faucet (two separate handles, pull-out hose, Price-Pfister Catalina model) is dripping from the faucet itself. I shut the water from below the sink, determined it's a cold water, unscrewed the handle, removed and replaced the cartridge. However. As soon as I screw the cartridge in place, water starts dripping (both cold and hot water is shut off). If I unscrew the cartridge, water stops dripping (and nothing comes out of cartridge hole, so I suppose under-sink shut-off is ok). I tried unscrewing the hot water handle, same behavior exactly.

Question: Why the water is dripping and how do I troubleshoot/fix it?


texts: Splicing 6/3 wire to multiple 8/3 wires (or even other 6/3 wires) inside a junction box

texts:
I have a situation where my oven and counter-top range are split up, but fall within spec of being able to utilize one 50a breaker on the panel.
My plan is to pull a single 6/3 cable to a large junction box, inside which I’d splice the two sets of 8/3 wires from the oven and range with the 6/3 cable (hots and neutrals, the grounds are skinny enough to use a twist-connector).  Because the all the cables combine to be pretty thick, I am not sure a twist-connector on the hots/neutrals would be a good choice (previous owner had it that way, but even with smaller cables it felt a bit sketchy).
With NEC 2017 in mind, what type of connectors can I use?  In the automotive world I’m used to things like a multi-terminal connector/distribution block.  Is there something like this in the home-owner world?
Tried searching and found some split-bolt suggestions - do I just wrap it with lots rubber tape to insulate?  Can a split bolt be used to connect three wires (one 6ga and two 8ga or even just 3 6ga if a future oven has that)?
Another option I found are Polaris connectors.  Expensive but seem straightforward. Would they or the split bolts need to be secured to the inside of the box, if used?
Any additional suggestions or recommendations are welcome.


texts: How can I brace a freestanding downspout?

texts:
My front downspout is not long enough and currently all the water just comes back and rests between my sloped sidewalk and the graded edge of my house.

I'm thinking I can move the downspout so that it goes over my sloped sidewalk and I can walk under it like so.

I'm thinking I'll get some sort of L shaped bracer for the part coming off the house but I'm not sure how I would add supports for the part that comes down on the yard. How would I brace a freestanding downspout?

I'm currently planning on having the house dug up in the spring and having it wrapped to reduce water seepage so I'm not looking at fixing the sidewalk or implementing the underground stuff at the moment as I'll just have to do it again later.

My other option is just making my downspout really long but I would like to use the sidewalk. Perhaps there is another option I may be missing.


texts: Why does this wall in my basement have so many vents?

texts: I have a wall at the foot of my stairs that has 3 vents in about 5 ft of wall. One of them ducts straight to the HVAC system, the other two just open into the unfinished storage/utility (furnace, water heater) room on the other side. I'm curious as to why they built it with so many vents.


texts: What is a suitable mold material for a concrete bar top?

texts:
I would like to make an L-shaped concrete bar top (single piece). However, I want to make the corner have a large curve (12-15" radius?). How can I create a mold to accomplish this? What materials should I be using? Will concrete stick to foam?

NOTE: I have woodworking tools at my disposal. No metal fabrication please.


texts: Finishing a bathroom downstairs where the rough waste lines already exist. I live in Michigan, my question is around venting. I have seen AAV's under sinks in this state before, but it looks like there is already a vent on the sink line. When I put in the waste line for the sink do I need to extend the vent stack higher and put the AAV higher in the wall, or do I put an AAV under the sink after the P trap? Not sure I have seen multiple AAV's on the same tree before.


texts:
Someone sent me the link to IdeaPaint which appears to be a paint that turns any surface into a whiteboard. It looks pretty appealing, but I was wondering:

Whether anyone here has ever used it and if so whether they are happy with it?
What if I want my wall to be a magnetic whiteboard? What might I do to
the wall (and how) before applying
the whiteboard paint, to make
magnets stick to it?


texts: How to test if both Hot wires are disabled without Neutral?

texts:
Supposed the breaker is off but the left side is still hot (let's say breaker defective). Won't it work if you measure the terminal in the hot right and load left like in the following picture?

Why won't it work (if it won't work)?

Original message:

I'll connect two chair lugs to the screws in the above 125A main breaker feeder cooper. If I shut down the main breaker, how do I check both hot wires are gone without any neutral (we don't use neutral since all our equipments are 240v)? A defective breaker may only disable one of the hots. If I use a multimeter, where will I put the other lead on for each?


texts: Can a dimmer switch be on the same circuit with outlets?

texts: Can a dimmer switch be on the same circuit as outlets (with some of those being GFCI)? I've seen questions where the outlet was wired on the load side of the dimmer switch, but is this the same if the supply line is split before the dimmer? Will the outlets experience pulsing in this case too?


texts: How to connect flexible PVC tubing to PVC pipe with no chance of connection breaking?

texts:
I am assembling the plumbing for a pond. I've put nearly all of the plumbing under water, so if something breaks, the leak will occur underwater, within the pond, and thus, it has no chance of the leak causing water to go anywhere it should not be...the pond liner is also 1/4" thick rubber with little chance of breaking.
There is one point of failure though: a place where some 2" corrugated, flexible PVC tubing connects to a vertically-positioned schedule 40 2" PVC pipe. This connection gets 4000 gallons of water running through it, so a break would be very bad (i.e. flooding the neighborhood).
| | <-- opening of pvc pipe
| |                                                             \ <-- end of 80 ft long 2" flexible tubing
| | <-- 2" pvc pipe, sticks up about 5" above rocks            \/\
| |                                                             \/\
| |                                                              \/\
.......... <-- pipe is buried well in rocks in pond               \/ <-- other end connects to an underwater pump

What is a very very very reliable way to secure these two items?

The flow of water at 4,000 gph means the water flow can throw the tubing around like when firemen let go of a fire hose.
If need be, I can purchase a completely different kind of tubing. The tubing I bought was expensive, but insurance damage if the connection breaks would be far worse! I couldn't find any with threading.
I planned to add an elbo joint at the top of the 2" pvc pipe, so the tubing can connect at a better angle, horizontally, but was concerned this additional joint just added another 2 points of potential failure.
The vertical pipe travels 1.5 ft underground then comes to a T where it connects with a network of other horizontal pipes, so potentially something could be tied around those horizontal pipes, which will be buried under rock so can't go anywhere.


texts: Three different well pumps not working but have power

texts:
We bought a 1hp shallow well jet pump (Everbilt) a couple months ago to move water from a cistern to use in various places on the farm.
It stopped working all of a sudden a week ago. Test meter says ~123v going into the motor, even when I take the cover off and probe the inner wiring.
Tested the start capacitor and it rises and falls as I should expect. Shaft turns. There was no hum, click, noise, or anything when we apply power to the motor. So I figured it was a crap motor.
Went to another hardware store, got a different brand (Zoeller). Spent an hour removing the old motor and replacing with new and I got the EXACT same result. 120+v into the motor, but no sound, hum, clicks....nothing. I test the capacitor on this one, too.
I'm thinking that there's a slight chance I got a bum motor a second time. So I plugged in a 3/4hp portable irrigation pump we already had to the same electrical source and it works. I try the Zoeller motor on a different breaker at the post, still doesn't work.
So I order ANOTHER 1hp motor (Red Lion) and the first thing I try is wiring it up to see if it runs. Same result! There's power going into the motor, but NOTHING HAPPENS. Still no hums, clicks, no smoke, nothing. I have other items like heat lamps and lights plugged into this building and they all work; even if I have them on this circuit.
I've never seen anything like this. An AC motor is fairly simple. Yet 3 pumps (2 of which brand new) not working even the power is obviously there. Esp when I plug in another motor (which is a cheap harbor freight one; these others are more expensive) and it works just fine. I switched them all to 115 instead of 230...it's the first thing I do.
What else am I missing or am I so unlucky that I just bought 3 bad motors from 3 brands in a row?


texts: single zone house with forced hot water only heating on one side

texts: I have a single zone in my house with forced hot water only heating on one side of the house.  What am I doing wrong?  I have bled the pipes many times and still not heat on one side of the house


texts: How should I insulate the walls and ceilings of this 1920's semi-detached brick house?

texts:
I'm renovating a 1920's semi-detached house. The plaster on the walls was  slapped straight on the wall about an inch thick, and the ceilings were lath and plaster which had been overboarded.  Most of this needs to come off to do repair work to the walls.  I want to know what is the best way to insulate the walls and ceilings with the aim of meeting the BC regs u value. ( i believe this is 0.3 [unit needed])

All exterior walls are 9 inch solid brick. The floor joists are 30cm apart with pine floor on top which I don't plan to remove as its all sound.
I plan to insulate the loft with rock-wool/fibreglass to about 400mm and use sound deadening board on the ceilings and most internal walls.

Above the living room and kitchen are spare bedrooms which aren't really used. I'd like to insulate them so that I'm not heating unused space.

My concerns are:

To insulate external walls with insulated plasterboard would mean building a frame and losing a good 4 inches around each room.  It would also create a logistical problem in  mounting  (future) fixtures to the wall.

I'm also concerned about condensation in the joists if I insulate the ground floor ceilings.


texts: How can I keep these hook mounting screws tight?

texts: I have four hooks from ikea and one periodically has the main hook part come off the screws that attach it to the mounting plate. Should I use adhesive to ensure the screws won’t come loose, or replace the screws?


texts: Would replacing my boiler's control board resolve intermittent issues after a water leak?

texts:
My Potterton Suprima HE 60 is approaching 10 years old. A few years ago it went badly wrong because the metal flue had corroded (known design flaw) and condensate had dripped down through the boiler.

That was all fixed but every now and again it stops working. The programmer is on, the thermostat is calling for heat, the motorised valves have opened but the boiler is dead - no burner, no LEDs lit. And then half an hour later it springs into life as if nothing has happened.

A couple of engineers have looked at it but say there's nothing they can do when it's working - they need to see it when it's dead, but they never arrive quickly enough to see that.

So I'm thinking it's time for drastic action - my options would seem to be new PCB or new boiler. Given the former is likely to be considerably cheaper, is it worth trying, or is there a danger the fault is not on the PCB and it will be a waste of time?

One last wrinkle - this morning the heating was off but when I checked the boiler was showing an "Ignition" fault. However, resetting cleared it and it appeared to fire up just fine...

I don't know what the community is going to make of all this but any advice is much appreciated!


texts: Can I fit hardboard of two different thicknesses?

texts: I'm fitting hardboard on my bathroom's floor in order to glue vinyl on top of it. However I'm using 2 kinds of hardboard. One is 3mm thick, and the other 2mm. Is this a problem, and if so is there an easy solution for it?


texts: How can I build a long-lasting composite deck that’s exactly flush with the ground?

texts:
I love the look and feel of high-quality composite decking but I want it flush/level with the ground. In other words, I don’t want to step down off the deck. I particularly don’t want my small children tripping/falling off the edge of the deck, and I don’t want railings since I have a small backyard in the city.

Contractors all want me to build it above-ground for airflow, or they say I can dig down 8” or so and build the foundation there. But they caution me that the reduced airflow will cause the treated lumber foundation to rot over time. I don’t want that.

Please be creative with your answers. Could we perhaps pour concrete first and then put composite on top of something made of plastic?


texts: Black dots on wooden stair treads, can't sand them away

texts:
I am quite  a beginner as far as diy is concerned and I'm in the process of refurbishing the old wooden stairs in our new house. Never done that before. It was carpeted so I removed it and there were several layers of paint underneath, and I removed that too, now I am sanding the treads.

The next step would be to stain the treads with a dark colour (to contrast with our flooring which is a clearer colour).

My issue is that being old stairs they have black "dots" and sanding does not seem to remove them, they are not superficial, they have a bit of depth to them, see pictures:

I'd like to know if it is OK to leave them as they are, given that we want to stain with a dark colour. Or is it bad practice and they have to somehow be "cleaned", if so, how?

On an aesthetic view, would leaving them look nice and authentic/rustic, or would it look like amateurish work?

I think I will need to use a stainable filler to mask the nail holes, will the filler be good enough to mask these black "dots" too?


texts:
I am looking for some suggestions on how to best reroute this downspout.  Currently gravity is working it's magic and it is draining downhill following the blue arrow in the images.  The water runs next to the house and pools under the deck beside the house.

The grade is down where the red arrows point.  The trouble is the walkway is right there followed by the garden on a slope.  I am not sure how to get over/under the walkway, and once I do letting the water out on top of the garden will possibly cause erosion.  At the end of the day something will have to give, not sure what the best option may be?

Thanks


texts: Tree stump in crawlspace surrounded by boards and covered in concrete?

texts:
I had a home inspection done today and the inspector told me this was a first:

In the crawlspace there was a large box filled with concrete. It looks like this:

Image source

The builder was there at the end and he said they were not able to grind it down or remove it, so this is what they did.

The inspector says we should speak to an arborist to understand if this strategy is effective.

I've read around that the wood could rot and cause damage underneath. Now, this isn't holding up the structure obviously, but it still seems like a strange solution and I wondered if anyone has ever seen anything like this.


texts: Which size wire I need to run 220 volt breaker for a tanning bed

texts: Which size wire do I need to run a 220 volt breaker? I need about 50 feet, but I'm not sure which size wire I need to run it with.  I know it's a 220 volt circuit breaker.


texts: using hardie backer as a temporary floor?

texts: We are planning on tiling our kitchen when we finish our remodel, but can't do it now.  Floor needs to be replaced due to water damage, so has anyone ever heard of using hardie backer as a temporary flooring?  Painting it perhaps?  Hubby wants to try it...


texts: How to build temporary walls for a temporary room

texts: I have 2 children that are here for only the summer and Thanksgiving or Christmas. We are wanting to build temporary walls for a temporary room for them in a finished basement with 9' ceilings. I have thought of cutting 12' sheets of sheetrock down and connecting 3 of them with hinges and putting them on a closet rail. The only thing that I can't figure out is what I could use for a frame around sheet rock to connect the hinges to and to make it look somewhat nice. Does anyone here have any good idea for what I could use for a frame? Or has anyone done something like this any other way? FYI, the wall will be about 12'long (3 panels) on one side and 8' long (2 panels) on the other. Thanks.


texts: How do i remove below wall unit? I need to replace it with a new one


texts:
I am working on a carrier roof top unit, I need to replace the inducer motor.
The old motor has 2 wire, black and blue, and I have got the replacement parts for it.
The new motor comes with yellow, purple and brown.
I am confused,  black wire connected on the board on CM and blue wire on L2, on the new motor shows yellow on line and purple also line and brown one is connecting to the yellow.
Question: How do I connect these wires.


texts: Leak-proofing aluminium windows in a minimalist house

texts:
I live in the tropics and plan to build my first home soon. The house will be 2-story with high ceilings (3.96m floor to floor--to improve indoor temp), walls will be made of plastered bricks and I plan to use aluminium windows. I want the house to be leak-proof, and I'm concerned about the windows. Since some of them will be high up on the second floor, I'm looking for a design that allows zero or less maintenance. If it's possible I don't want to have overhangs because I want the minimalist look for the house. Since caulk doesn't last a lifetime, I wonder how tall apartments manage to have leak-proof windows.

Will putting a 6-inch-thick upside-down U frame (concrete) like this help?

Hope to hear what you think!


texts: How can I turn a floor lamp, that emits light upward, into a reading light?

texts:
I want turn this floor lamp into a reading light. I want all light exiting upwards from the lamp shade to point down.
Do I just buy a mirror and put it on top of the lamp shade? Then the mirror can reflect down any upward light. But is this safe? I use a fluorescent light bulb, but it still heats! I don't want a fire hazard.


texts: use outside air for combustion for gas dryer? why not install in airtight closet,with fresh air intake vent?

texts: instead of using your heater or cooled air you've paid $$ for ,why not use outside air for combustion of your  Gas  dryer? Install the dryer in an airtight closet install a  vent for  fresh air that the dryer would  pull  in and of course the normal exhaust gas dryer venting. I'll bet you'd save enough in lower heating  and  cooling  costs to make it worth  the one time trouble.  Any ideas??


texts: What is the most efficient way to dig a hole in a slope?

texts:
I need to dig a rectangular box hole for a rainwater cistern. The dimensions are 4m x 3m x 2m (13ft x 10ft x 6ft). There is a slope of about 10 degrees, and the dirt will be used at a point of lower elevation. The soil is a mix of clay and residues of bricks.

Given the amount of soil that needs to be removed, I'm looking for the easiest way to excavate this much material. I have a wheelbarrow, shovels, and pickaxe to use for the task. Is there any way I can use the slope itself to make the task easier?


texts: What is recommended method to fix sunken garage floor slab?

texts:
I have an attached one car garage where the floor slab seems to have sunken in one corner by about an inch and a half and varies lesser amounts in other areas. The slabs continues behind the garage into our stairwell (the house in on a hill and the main living are is one level above the garage).

We want to fix the slab in the stairwell and would prefer to make the fix in the garage as well. We have so far gotten a quote for "slabjacking" using polymer foam for around $1,500. Other options are to use a special bonding top-coat cement mix to level out the slab while also inject some of the mix into the cracks about the edges. That cement mix is not cheap ($15 for a 40lb bag) but because of the thickness needed I don't imagine it would require that many bags.

FYI, we moved into the house about a year and a half ago and haven't noticed any sinking. The house is 50+ years old so the sinking may have happened gradually.


texts: Replacing Vintage Carlon Thyrocon Rotary Dimmer with Lutron Skylark S603-PGH Sliding Dimmer

texts:
Happy new year!  I'm trying to replace an old rotary dimmer with a newer slider/switch and could really use your help.  I searched and searched and couldn't really find someone with the same wiring conundrum I am about to explain.
It's currently configured in a 3-way configuration.  There is a rotary switch/dimmer (press in to turn on/off) that controls an overhead light in the dining room.  The kitchen next door has a 2-gang with one switch turning the dining room light on/off.  Dim level is persistent with the rotary switch - that is to say if you turn the light on from the kitchen, the dim level is  that to which the rotary is currently set.  On the rotary it says 'Carlon Thyrocon' and elsewhere on it 500W.  I couldn't find any datasheets or anything about this device besides that it may be 'vintage' based on a couple lot descriptions on ebay. It has 2 red wires and a black wire coming out the back.  Here's where things get confusing for me: the switch box seems to have a single 4-wire romex coming through - so red, white, black and bare copper ground.  From the rotary to the romex it is wired black <-> black, one red <-> red, other red <-> white. bare ground is connected to the metal of the  switch box.  This is not what i was expecting for a 3-way configuration. As stated i have a lutron dimmer i would like to connect.  Wiring available on the Lutron is one green, one red, one red with white stripe, one black wire.  The Lutron instructions recommend connecting - again from switch to wiring box - black <-> tagged (i believe common) black, red <-> other black (i believe one traveler wire), red with white stripe <-> red (i believe other traveler wire), green to bare copper.  So as you can see, the wiring in the box does not seem to match what is expected in convention.  My guess is they just used whatever spool of wire to do the job so there is likely (hopefully) a convention in use throughout this house - but unfortunately no Rosetta Stone to translate between that and expected wiring convention.  I could also not know what I'm talking about of course. I have attached a picture - i hope it helps to illustrate what i am trying to convey.  Unfortunately i don't have access to any test tools here (dmm for example) so i'm going to need a little ingenuity to get this thing hooked up safely. Thank you sincerely to anyone who's reading right now (or made it this far) - I genuinely appreciate any advice you all may have.

Jayce


texts: How do I replace a condenser fan motor in a central air unit?

texts:
The condenser fan motor on my central air unit has seized up (tried like crazy to turn it it, but no go). I'm not sure how old the motor is but I'm guessing it's original, so about 12 years old. I have located a universal motor that is listed as being compatable with my motor (same horse power, voltage, RPM's, etc) for about $100 online.

The installation looks fairly simple, looks like I will just need to pull the electrical wires out of the existing motor and connect them to the new motor in the same fashion that I did when replacing our garbage disposal.

I have 3 questions:

Has anyone used a universal motor to replace an original one before and how well did it do?
Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to do this myself? (Yes, I know to make sure and disconnect the power)
If I did need a professional to replace the motor for me, would I be better off getting the motor myself and having them install it or allowing them to purchase the motor (maybe they can get a better deal) and have them install it.


texts: Pouring a concrete slab against my house: how to frame it up against the outside wall?

texts:
I have a concrete front stoop that drains some water into the basement, so I am going to knock it out and pour a new slab with better grading. The slab will be about 4 feet square, and fits into a corner so that two sides abut the house and two do not.

How do I frame this slab, knowing that it will be up against the house on two sides?

This poster had a similar problem, but he accepted an answer that calls for leaving a few inches of gravel between the house and the slab. I can't do that - below the slab is basement!

There are references (here and here) to using "pre-formed joint material" to separate the house from the slab. What kind of material is this, and is it used instead of a wooden form on the sides that touch the house?


texts: Can I wire a GFCI outlet with 3 hots and 3 neutrals?? I understand line and load but manufacturer says you cannot wire if you have more than 4 wires not including grounds. Why is that??


texts: Can't replace hardwood floors, what are my options?

texts:
My house was built in 1929 and still has the original hardwood floors. And now some 85 years later they are in terrible shape. They squeak like crazy, many boards are broken and splintered, there are gaps, they are uneven, and there are several places where someone put many nails into it (I assume to try and stop the squeaks).

Refinishing the existing floor is a daunting prospect due to extensive damage, a significant percentage of the boards would need to be replaced.

Making things complicated though is there is no subfloor and all interior walls sit on the hardwood. So the floor was nailed directly to the floor joists, and then all interior walls were put up, I can't even imagine how you would get that floor up and out for under the walls that are nailed through it.

So what can I do? Wall-to-wall carpeting would be the easiest solution, though I'm not crazy about an entire house of carpeting. Is the only other option laminate assuming I can get the floors to be level? Or can I just treat the existing floor as a subfloor and do what I like once I get it level?


texts: 2 black wires and 2 white wires connected to a light fixture that has one green, one black and one white wire

texts:
I need some assistance.
I currently am trying to change my track lighting. The track light that it came with has one green, one white and one black wire.
The wires coming out of the ceiling is 2 white and 2 black wires.
How do I know which wires connect to what?


texts: I think this was used to secure a weapon in the property I bought. It is like a flat drive, but only clockwise. One of four fixing was with a normal screw, which I removed.


texts: Why won't my new Craftsman garage door opener power on?

texts: I installed a new Craftsman garage door opener by following the instruction booklet it came with, but after the installation was done and I plunged it in the outlet nothing will power up. Nothing lit up, or any movement. I made sure the outlet was working by plugging another device, and the other device worked but not the garage door opener. any suggestions?


texts: How can I remove plaster board/drywall rawl plugs?

texts:
I have used red head metal plaster board rawl plugs. The kind that flare out flat when you screw the bolt in.

I now need to remove them. Is there a trick to remove them so I can reuse them or take them out cleanly at least?


texts:
I have 1 red wire and a neutral wire attached to the fixture and the black wire do not attached to anything, how do I install a new light fixture with a black wire a white wire and the copper ground wire?

Thank you!


texts: Can I spray regular foam over fire block caulk?

texts: I'm sealing up some holes and gaps in my attic and dutifully using fire block caulk where some electric cables are coming through the studs and gaps. In other locations, I'm using Great Stuff like spray foam for simple air gaps. However, a couple of hard to reach places make spraying the foam difficult. It would make the job easier if I'm allowed to foam over the fire blocking caulked holes and gaps where the electric cables are coming through.


texts: Insulating cantilever overhang - do I have mortar/stone between joists?

texts:
My house was built in 1928, its an old Milwaukee bungalow. I have a small cantilever overhang in the front of my house. That area gets pretty cold in the winter, so I wanted to investigate insulating it.

I cut a hole through the sheathing underneath and it seemed to contain some sort of stone or concrete. Has anyone seen anything like this?

My main question is how can I insulate and/or seal this overhang? I incorrectly assumed the inside was empty or poorly insulated, so I could open it up from underneath and add some insulation. My only idea is to:

Take off the exterior sheathing
Put in sheets of XPS
Use spray foam around the edges of the XPS
Put in new exterior sheathing. I'm assuming this sheathing will come down to that lip around the edge of the overhang.

Here are some pics...

Interior:

Exterior:

How I think the cantilever is constructed; I'm looking to insulate the yellow part

Small amount of contents of overhang. Yeah, that appears to be a stone.


texts: Hooking up switches only with white wires. Will it work?

texts:
I'm working on a small cabin. All black wires are run directly to lights. The white wires are run to the switches then lights... so each switch has only white wires.

Would the circuit still work? Why or why not?

It's the exact opposite of the black white being routed to the switch.

ALL lights and switches are wired this way in the cabin.  ALL walls are covered so getting to wiring will require ripped out walls.

If it's unsafe, couldn't we just hook up to power in the reverse order (so white is hot)?  Would that work? Why or why not?


texts: Chandelier with 6 bulbs does not work on dimmer switch after bulb has been replaced

texts:
A halogen bulb blew and I replaced it with the dimmer switch on and all 6 bulbs work and can be dimmed.When I switch it off and then back on none of the bulbs light.If I take out the bulb I replaced  the 5 other bulbs work and dim.The bulb is a dimmable halogen bulb.
The others are halogen bulbs but are older and may be a different make.


texts: I'm going to install tiger wood 3/4 inch hardwood floors in my house. The manual says you need 3/4 inch CDX plywood subfloor. I have 1/2 CDX plywood subfloor. Is the extra 1/4 inch really needed? Some people have told me it is not needed, but I want more opinions.


texts: Dryer smells like gas after hiatus and reinstall

texts:
I just reinstalled my gas dryer after a lengthy hiatus due to remodeling. The plumbing hasn't changed much except that I had taken off but then reinstalled (with yellow Teflon tape) the 2' appliance connector.
Just before putting it back there was no gas smell but now there is throughout the house. I did run a test load and it dried fine. So I shut the valve at the outlet off, just before the connector and there is no more smell.
Is it possible that something happened to the dryer during the hiatus? Like that maybe there is a breach of some inside fitting, a gasket, valve or igniter? Should I call my gas company to see if they can detect a leak? Again, when the valve at the outlet is off, everything is fine so I know it's not the pipe leading to it.


texts: How can I disassemble and remove my Kwikset deadbolt?

texts: I cant get this lever off to take the face plate off. I took off the screw behind the lever but still won’t come off.


texts: How can I clean the glass door on my fireplace?

texts: I tried crumpled up newspaper but that was a joke. Are there any good techniques for doing this?  Mine is totally covered with creosote right now and I can barely see through it.


texts: Can I install wood stair treads over old Linoleum

texts: Installing maple tread and riser kits into my bi-level home. The stairs currently have linoleum on them. The lino peals up easy leaving a the paper glue layer on the stairs. Can I install the solid wood treads over the paper glue left behind without issues? Using adhesive and maybe some small brad nails?


texts:
I'm thinking of putting in a single color LED strip for under cabinet lighting and RGB LED strip for over cabinet lighting, both with dimmers. I plan to plug in a power supply above the microwave cabinet which has one plug free, can i connect both LED strips and dimmers onto a single power supply? Of course the paths of current will be separated (i.e first set of red and black wires going down for under cabinet and second set going up for the RGB strip from the power supply). Also, does the type of power supply matter?

I plan to use one of these dimmers for the single color LED strip
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51qedrgjUPL.SY355.jpg
OR
http://www.photo138.com/0/AWS/YC00400-1.JPG

And for the RGB strip, either a 24 or 44 key remote IR controller.

Answers are welcome!


texts: Can I run an unrelated electrical cable under a bathtub?

texts:
I have an older house with a mixture of grounded and ungrounded outlets.  Every room has at least one grounded outlet in it, except one.  I've long wanted to run a new cable to that room and at least put a single outlet in it, so that I can stop running an extension cord across the hall.  There are no nearby grounded outlets, so I've never figured out a way to do it, until now.

There are three rooms in a row - the dining room, a bathroom, and my wife's office.  The office is the room without the grounded outlet.  There is a grouded outlet on the wall between the dining room and the bathroom.

Would it be legal / advisable to run a cable from the grounded outlet in the dining room into the hollow of the bathtub, and through the wall into the office?  I assume that some sort of extra waterproofing would be necessary, and maybe even putting a GFI into the dining room outlet.  The floor joists (inaccessible from below without ripping the drywall off the basement ceiling) run crossways to how I want to run the wire, so running under the floor is difficult, and I have a very short attic (maybe three feet tall), so running it up and over is also difficult.  Going through the tub hollow is probably the best bet, if I can do so legally and safely.

I'm in the United States.


texts: Can I put the burner head in the oven during self cleaning?

texts:
My renter moved out an left a grimy mess.  The filth on the stove top actually backed-up into the nooks and carnies of surface burner head, and seems almost impassible to clean.
Since the surface burner heads (figure 1) do not have an enamel coating, I was wondering, is it safe to stick them in the oven during the self clean cycle?
If so, would I be able to put the enameled surface burner caps (figure 2) and grates in as well?
Figure 1: Burner head designs make them hard to clean:

Figure 2: Burner caps have a flat enameled surface and are generally easier to clean:

Images sourced from amazon


texts: The pair of orange clamps are held onto a special mortising jig via threaded rod, the red inset image is a variation on the design but what are they called and where can you get them from?


texts: Dishwasher leaking when we add item during cycle

texts: We have a Kenmore dishwasher (model 665.13749) that leaks when we open it during a cycle to add an item. We are doing this according to the directions, opening the door very slightly until the washer stops.  When we open the door all the way after it stops spraying, water dribbles onto the floor, apparently from the bottom of the door--not a huge amount, but more than a few drops. In addition, if we reach behind the panel at the bottom of the door, the insulation is wet.  Earlier in the year we had a problem with leaking during the wash cycle, but after several repairs under our service contract that problem seems to have been fixed.  I called today to report the current problem of leakage when we add an item during the cycle, and was told this was normal.  We have had this dishwasher for several years, and, with the exception of a few drops on occasion, nobody in the household has ever noticed water leaking when adding an item during a cycle.  Is this normal?  Our service contract runs out in August and if this isn't normal, we would like to make sure the problem is fixed.


texts: Can I build a mitered aluminum glass frame from glass edge banding?

texts: Can I build a more substantial window frame from ultra thin aluminum edge banding by mitering the corners and installing a super low profile corner key?


texts:
I need some advice about drawing up blueprints for a new roof on our house. Thanks to some shoddy workmanship on an addition before we bought the house we need to completely remove the existing roof (framing and all) and put a new solid roof over the whole house. I am trying to decide what kind of framing structure to use on the new roof. We are also doing a complete floor plan remodel on the interior of the house. I have attached the blueprint of the final product.

The dimensions of the house are what is making this somewhat difficult. The house if 42x50, so that would make for a larger than usual truss. We are also wanting to have an attic space that we can finish someday to add a couple of rooms and have vaulted ceilings in part of the house.

From the research that I have done, it seems like the simplest and best solution is to use a structural ridge beam to help support the new roof. This would allow us to leave the entire attic space open and would also simplify the construction process because we should be able to leave the ceilings up in the house until we are ready to redo them as well. It also adds strength to the house because half of the weight of the roof would be supported by the ridge beam instead of all of the weight resting on the exterior walls.

I have attached an outline of where the ridge beam would go as well as where the vaulted ceilings would be. Can anyone offer any advise or a better alternative to a ridge beam?

House Blueprint:

(source: bateswebdesign.com)

Ridge Beam Blueprint:

(source: bateswebdesign.com)

Current Roof:

(source: bateswebdesign.com)


texts: Circuit breaker does not trip - but produces no voltage under load

texts:
Some lights and outlets started going out intermittently in my home.  Circuit breaker did not trip off but under inspection with a multi-meter, produced no voltage. I disconnected the load from the breaker (Disconnected the black wire from it) and checked again with the multi-meter. It produced 117 volts.  I installed a new breaker and same deal - under load; 0 volts - disconnected from load; 117 volts.  Neither breaker tripped.  This circuit has worked for years without fault.
Recent work on home - the roof leaked through the ceiling a few months ago and we replace the ceiling.  Could a drywall screw through a wire cause this issue? Any assist is appreciated.


texts:
The shower drain in my fiberglass shower is poking up and slightly off center, which caused a small leak.  I had assistance with fixing it, but it gives very little clearance below for me to drywall the ceiling back up.  I could shave the drywall down, but I also think the run from the trap to the main drain line is slightly off kilter which means eventually it may leak again.  So I'm going to fix it proper so there is no sheering force at all.

My question is this - is there a minimum length the 2" drain from the shower must be before it hits the trap?  I'm not touching anything after the trap except to connect my new drain/trap combo to it.

Because if there is no minimum (obviously you need a minimum to install the drain and couple the pieces together) I can definitely shave off like 1-1.5" of the drain line from the shower to the trap.


texts:
I had my toilet replaced about 2 yrs back with a Kohler 4467. It seems to have developed a drip leak from where it is bolted - a drop or 2 every 30min. I had the plumber who installed it come and look and his response was he might have to change it - about $300.
I contacted Kohler support and their response was "looks like right parts were not used" K-GP51487. The plumber's response was "those are no good."
Any suggestions on how to fix this w/o having to remove the whole thing apart (not too handy). Will the silicone caulk used in shower/kitchen work/ help?


texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How do I replace oven insulation that has been soiled by mice and smells bad?

How do I replace insulation in an electric stove that has been soiled by mice and smells when the oven is on?


texts: How do I install an air conditioner in a larger window?

texts:
I have a brand new AC in the box which was meant for another room, but recently had a baby and her room is too hot.

I want to use the AC I already purchased, but the max window width is 36" and the window in her room is 48"

Is it possible\safe to use plywood or some other material to act as the AC curtain to make up for the remaining 12" of space?  Cant seem to find anything on the web. (perhaps I am searching for the wrong keywords)


texts: Coleman Wall furnace in 1967 mobile home gas model # 8670A

texts: My old wall gas furnace blower motor keeps running and shutting off not cooling the system down and smells hot inside and outside?


texts:
I put a replacement cartridge in mu Moen Bathtub faucet only to make the leak worse. I used a No. 1225 i see 1220 is interchangeable plus cost $5. less.

the  only thing we did not spray with Lyme away and grease the new cartridge a  it is leaking worse than before


texts:
Device 1 (electrical fan) is 32W and 0,19AMP. Device 2 (lighting system) is 400W and 1,7AMP. Both run at 240Volts (Europe).

When wiring these up, what kind of cables do I need?
Can I use any domestic electrical plug adapter or are they usually rated for certain wattages / amperes?
I'm attaching both to an electrical timer - are those usually rated for certain wattages / amperes as well?

These are quite powerful devices and I'd like to avoid electrical problems, things melting, etc.


texts: Is a 60 amp breaker adequate for a 240v sub-panel to my garage?

texts: 150 panel in house. I want to run a 240 (sub-panel) feed to garage 25 feet away for 10,000 watt electric heater. There's room in the 150 panel. Would 60 amp breaker in the garage meet the 1.25 safety margin?


texts: I'm doing a repair project where I'll be using steel rod cantalievered out to 4'. Can anyone tell me approximately how much weight 1 1/2 and 2" steel rod can carry at 4'?. The deck won't weigh a lot but I'm needing someone who knows these things to provide an answer. I'm a humble contractor who works mostly with wood. Thank you. Ken


texts: Kitchen faucet pressure good but then drops to very low

texts: This only happens in the kitchen. Turning on the faucet hot and cold, the pressure is fine but then drops and gets slower and slower. At its lowest, the water makes a swish, swish sound.


texts: What glue would you use to glue wood (polyurethane finished) to pvc shower walls for shelving?

texts:
The shower I have is made out of pvc/plastic. Soap holder is useless since I don’t use soap bars. Suction cup hooks inevitably fail. Totes that hang from the shower head are unsightly and isn’t secure.
I’m thinking of building some shelving out of solid maple, finishing them with polyurethane to waterproof, and then gluing the shelf to the shower walls.
Has anyone tried this? What glue did you use?
I’d imagine some type of glue that has decent holding strength (40 lb), non water soluble, but is removable (i.e., can pry out the wood and scrape out the excess) to be ideal.
Shelving is real simple: one 3/4” x 6” x 24” piece of maple (or maybe cedar) that’ll be glued to the walls and dado’d to receive 3 shelves. Don’t worry about the joinery, I’ll make that work.


texts: How do I wire a new light fixture with a red wire?

texts:
When replacing an old chandelier with a new ceiling, there was one red wire, two white wires tied together and two black wires tied together.

I had capped the red wire and tied in the remaining wires to their respective colors. When I had turned on the power, the light had turned on even though the dimmer switch had been turned off.

How do I correct this?


texts: How to build a mantel on rough stone fireplace

texts:
I have a very rough stone fireplace for which I'd like to hang a new mantel. Eventually I want to hang a flat screen and the new mantel will protect it from heat and such.

I have noodled this project and noodled it and have not been able to land on a decent solution. I'm open to ideas. I've considered chiseling high places and building up a mortared flat plane. I've even thought about using an angle grinder... and quickly dismissed the idea. All of these ideas have their pros and cons.

As for mounting:  hidden channel bracket mounting, iron under brackets (which I really like), even hidden rods that go into the mantel. As my mantel piece is probably about 50-70 pounds, how I mount it greatly depends on how sure I am of the surface I'm mounting to.

In the end, the issue is: what is the best way to mount it to this surface!?

I'm a blank slate for ideas.
Thank you!

The mantel piece is about 5' long and about 8" high.

Here's a view from the attic crawl space. On the left is the chimney. On the right is the masonry, to which the rock is attached.


texts: Why would the light switch control the fan and the fan switch control the light?

texts: We replaced  8 ceiling fans in our house and they all worked great until the last one.  It was wired correctly according to the directions, but now the switch that controlled the previous fan, controls the light and vice versa.  Is this a problem/ fire risk?  We are having trouble finding the answer to this.


texts: How long to wait after tile installation before placing heavy objects on it?

texts:
I just installed some 12" x 24" large format tiles in my laundry room using Flexbond mortar over concrete that was machined with a diamond cup disk. Its been ~32 hours since I finished the main portion but its clear that that the mortar is still curing. It can take foot traffic at this point but I really need to get my washer/dryer back in there ASAP because I literally have no clean clothes ;)

How long should I wait before hauling these two beasts back in there?

My washer is probably ~300 - 350 lbs (it has huge concrete blocks in it for counter balance) and the dryer is a good ~170 lbs.


texts: what is this semicircular crank connector part called?

texts:
The plastic hand crank handle on my compost grinder just broke, and the company that made it is long out of business.  I'm trying to see if I can find some other replacement, but I'm having trouble searching for something that would connect correctly.  The male metal part in the picture below is a semicircle 3/8" in diameter, and protruding about 7/8" out the side of the device.
I could just use a vice grips as a crank handle, but I'd like something a little more elegant.
Can you suggest some search terms that would help me find a suitable female part to match this?  I've found some oven knob replacements that talk about "D-posts", but an oven knob isn't going to give me anywhere enough leverage (and won't be strong enough).


texts:
I have to remove the rotten mail post and install a new one.
The post was broken. I have to take it out first.

The difficult thing is that the concrete around the post root. It's deep and hard. I bought chisel and drill bit for concrete. But it is too tough. After two days it still no lucky.

Hiring a handyman is still not my first choice. Any idea to crush the concrete?


texts: How can I prevent my outside heat pump coils from icing over?

texts: My outside unit is on the north side of my house and under an area that water drains to. I have put up gutters and placed a small roof above the unit, but still the coils freeze up during winter.  I'm looking for more ideas to help with this freezing problem, and ways to defrost it quicker, like rock salt, defrosters, etc. Would these methods damage the coil?


texts: Installing a sump pump to reduce relative air humidity

texts:
I have a damp basement.  There are really no big water issues because the house sits on sloped terrain, it's just damp and musty.  I've been running a de-humidifier, but that doesn't seem to be taking care of the dampness as well as I'd like it.

My question is, would installing a sump pump assist in reducing the overall dampness of the basement?  I was thinking that lowering the water table around the house would be beneficial, and I could just let the dehumidifier drain into the sump.

Edit:
There is basically no air flow in the basement since the house was primarily heated with a wood stove, and cooled with window air.  There are vents, but I don't want to circulate that air with the rest of the house because the main living area will take on the smell, until I get the moisture under control.


texts: Add a door to a basement load bearing wall

texts:
I am finishing my basement in a 1960 home, and a doorway is in an awkward place. I want to add an additional 36” doorway in a load-bearing wall that sits atop a ridge footing that is 5” above the  slab.
Obviously I will need to remove a section of that footing, level to the floor.  What is the appropriate way to get rid of that section of raised footing? Also, the ceiling is 7’ and the existing headers in existing doorways in this wall consist of two 2x4s stacked on one another.
I assume that is not appropriate, but probably for headroom.
EDIT: (Information from the OP that was erroneously posted in the answer field).
It’s inside, and it is the middle wall and I want to move an interior doorway. I would have to step over the raised concrete ridge and want to take out the unused portion after I install a doorway (using header and jack studs)


texts: Should I use 15 amp breaker with 6awg wire?

texts:
I have a 100amp main service panel in my single dwelling unit and a 60amp sub-panel in my garage. Because I no longer need the panel in the garage, I want to abandon it and replace it with a new sub-panel in the main house close to the main panel (I'm out of spaces in the main panel).
Can I use the existing #6 wire that's feeding the garage sub-panel to feed the new sub-panel and use a 15amp breaker located in the (main panel or sub-panel) on it?


texts: Surface mount power outlet under kitchen sink

texts: Can I surface mount a power outlet under the kitchen sink?  Or does it have to be a box that sits on the surface of the cabinet wall?


texts: What is a good reference book for cabinetmaking and/or other millwork?

texts: I'm interested in making some cabinets and shelving. I have basic carpentry experience but have never tackled a project like this before. I'm looking for a good, illustrated guide to making cabinets and/or other millwork (e.g. shelving) that explains things like joints, hinges, finishing, etc. Any help would be much appreciated!


texts:
I am holding four 44 inch long 4x4 pieces of lumber which I have sanded down to the finish I require.

I intend on using a tap & die attachment set for a corded drill to progressively drill two 2 inch holes into the corner of each piece of lumber where I will thread 1/2 inch width steel rods into, attach to the table top, and secure the legs with hardware.

Does this sound feasible? The table design is corner braced.


texts: How to replace on old 2 wire single light switch with a 3 wire?

texts: This house is over 100 years old and we don't know when this very old light switch was put in. The actual outside switch just broke right off yesterday.  All of the new replacements have 2 wires on one side and 1 on the other side. This one only has 2 black wires, one on either side. How do we replace it with a modern switch? Thx so much.


texts: What is the proper setup to cut straight openings with a router?

texts: I am new to using a router (first time). Did as much research as I could and I am wondering if my layout for cutting my first project is proper.


texts: Very slow leak out of main line at elbow out of concrete

texts: So at the top of that 90 elbow it is a very slow leak and into the concrete is another slow leak off same elbow... I tried soldering but it just falls right off/breaks even when it becomes a molten ball it rolls right off... could I just pump the hole and that upper part full of epoxy and call it good? Otherwise how do I go about properly repairing that... I tried uploading the image can't for whatever reason but the elbow part is a 90 degree up and it's partly in the concrete from the main line...


texts:
Last year, my wife and I purchased a house just south of Houston (Stafford, TX exactly). A couple of months into occupancy, we discovered that we had a problem with some Camponotus vicinus (Brown Carpenter Ant), and quickly got rid of them through the use of some boric acid and various other pesticides that were labeled for use against carpenter ants.

The thing about Camponotus vicinus is that they typically don't hit this far south and west, but I was able to confirm that's what they were by various sources around the internet.

Before you question on whether it's ants or termites, I can guarantee you that it's ants due to the piles of frass that they were leaving in a couple of places in the bathrooms, and I was able to grab a few and compare them to the ant/termite identification sheets found nearly everywhere.

But now we're starting to see swarmers of a different type of carpenter ant. These have the characteristics of Camponotus pennsylvanicus (Pennsylvania Carpenter Ant), but again, they don't really pose a threat to this part of the US. (See below)

I have removed the dead and rotting trees from my property, but I still need to trim some back. I also need to replace my soffits and facia boards on nearly the entire house to rid of that rotten wood, and I need to caulk around various pipes and such around the house.

I'm not terribly concerned about structural damage, but there's a lot of accessory damage that these things have and could do, and I want to make sure that's put to a stop.

My question(s) ultimately are as follows, though:

Is there some other black or brown carpenter ant that would strike southeastern Texas?
What is the most effective means of stopping swarmers of this sort?
Are there any other tattle tale signs that I need to be looking for with these wretched things?

EDIT

I just got home from work a bit ago and caught a swarm in the master bathroom. Among this swarm were 3 or 4 queens and several other swarmers. The queens were about 5/8" in length, where the swarmers were all 3/8" or shorter.

I've ruled out Camponotus pennsylvanicus based on the appearance of the queens. Their head and thorax are brown, and their abdomen is a banded brownish black. They only have one pair of wings and these protrude from their thorax. They are single-noded, which leans more towards Camponotus vicinus again.

Once I get the pictures off my camera, I'll post them here for further identification.

EDIT 2

 I was able to get of one of the queens.


texts:
Hi I installed a fan light in my bedroom. The wiring diagram was simple just add an extra wire. Tap into the live wire before the switch and run it out of the fan control into the port provided on the fan. It all works fine. However all night the led light flashes. About every 5 minutes even though it's turned off.
What is wrong. Tia


texts: Why did everything electrical start malfunctioning in my house?

texts: Lights are flickering, vacuum barely works.. I unplugged water heater and all my lights went out..plugged it back in and boom lights are back on.. If multiple circuits are malfunctioning shouldnt this be a ground break.. I crawled through atic and was shocked by a gas line that is dead.. All appliances are electric now.. Im on a budget and need help.. None of my space heaters work.. I moved into this house a month ago and everything worked properly this happened during the night woke up to electrical chaos


texts: Can this junction box wiring be used for a duplex receptacle?

texts:
!

Hi - this junction box was covered with a plug cover That had no openings in it, just a blank cover over the wall box. As you can see from the image we have two cables entering the box from the top left back corner, each cable with four separate thin wires inside the main cables. The colors are green, black, red and yellow. The wires are much thinner gauge than I usually seen for the other outlet boxes in my house.

Does anyone know if this wiring will work for a regular duplex wall outlet? Id like to have a outlet plug where the box is. What color wires would I connect to the outlet?

My house was built in the early 80s, Utah, USA if that helps. The people who lived here before me did not take very good care of the house and I doubt they did much custom work to it. I am the third owner of the house.

Thanks in advance for the help.


texts: The post of my rotary washing line has rusted into its sleeve in the ground and I do not have the strength or any powerful equipment to remove it. This happened over a period of a few winter months - does anyone have lightweight solutions that might do the trick? Would vinegar or oil help if I can pour them into the the tiny gap between the post and the sleeve? Thank you.


texts: What technique should I use to remove rubble from earth, using a small excavator?

texts:
I've a patch of earth - mostly fairly sticky Gloucestershire clay - which our previous builder has left  mixed up with bricks, larger lumps of concrete and who knows what else. I want to level this and leave enough earth on the surface to let wildflowers and perhaps grass grow.

I'm not expecting this to ever turn into a beautiful lawn, so I'm quite happy to have a go myself with a smallish excavator. The particular bit of land will end up hidden behind a coppice so it needs to be made tidy but not perfect. It's about 30' by 70' in all, with a few trees, and on a slight slope.

Can anyone share techniques on how best to approach this? Should I consider hiring a driver with the digger, or is this feasible as a DIY job? I've used a digger for a weekend before on a lighter job but nothing quite on this scale.


texts: Using a three prong outlet tester I found all the outlets on a circuit show open neutral but the outlets all work. Any ideas?


texts: HE Top Loading Clothes Washer - water drainage

texts:
My GE HE clothes washer ALWAYS has water under the tub - when you move the tub you hear it sloshing around.

Is this normal?

If not, thoughts on getting a proper draining?

Let me know, thanks!


texts: Stud hole for Romex electrical wire filled with Green-glue acoustic sealant - Cause of concern?

texts:
I am helping my brother with his unfinished basement when I realized he made a mistake. I told him to use a fire stopping sealant in certain stud holes where Romex wire was being fed through.

Unfortunately he used the wrong sealant, he used saint-gobain's acoustic soundproof sealant (i.e: Green-Glu).

My primary concern was "Would there be a negative reaction from the soundproof sealant coming into contact with the Romex sheathing" (i.e: Would it damage the sheathing or is there any serious risk)

I reached out to Saint-Gobain for more information and couldnt get a straight answer (which is  understandable)

Saint Gobain - "We do not have any information on using with wires and I don’t expect our sealant will provide an acoustical function in contact with the wires, and it could be a safety issue if a fire develops in one cavity as this is not a fire blocking material."

I plan on trying to remove some of the sealant and replace with a fire stopping sealant but there are areas I simply don't have access to. To anyone's knowledge is there any serious risks here? Should I be concerned with the Romex Sheathing having any negative reactions to the sealant?

Its worth nothing:
- The only "official" reported negative reaction I could find is when it comes into contact with copper. They also state it can be used around plastic junction boxes.

Green Glu Material Datasheet
Product Used


texts:
Can an LED Driver be mounted in a Ceiling Electrical box? I want to install a custom LED Lamp fixture to replace the existing bedroom ceiling fixture.

Will it violate code to mount the LED Driver within the existing 2 gang electrical box?


texts: After a nice shower today I went downstairs to see water running out of my can light below the shower. I rand water down the actual shower drain and the other upstairs showers for about 15 minutes so I concluded the leak was from the pan drain(down the sides of the pipe). When I went to go fix it though there is no nut like I have seen before. Just the abs pipe coming up with a rubber ring around it. Can I just replace that ring or using silicone around it? I am redoing the bathroom but not for a few months so need a temp fix


texts: Vertical float switch for tethered float sump pump?

texts: I have a sump pump in my basement that has a tethered float switch.  The sump is not deep enough for the switch to turn on so I have to go down there and turn it on manually every time it rains hard.  If I put a vertical float switch with a piggyback plug/switch will it turn on the sump pump?


texts: We are putting down new floors and baseboards and the supplier delivered the pre primed baseboard early so that we can paint it before it goes up.  We are going to paint it a semi gloss white.  Can you just paint it or do we have to do any prep work?


texts: What type of rheostat can I use to control an LED bulb?

texts:
I am making an Edison wooden lamp and instead of a toggle on/off switch, I want to be able to dim the lamp.  The bulb I am using is rated at 6 Watts.  What type of rotary rheostat should I use for the dimming function?  It needs to work at 120V.
Many rheostats I am seeing are rated for 100W which may not properly dim an LED given their low wattage.


texts: surge protection -- grounding in a slummy apartment without ground access

texts:
I live in an apartment, where NONE of the outlets are actually grounded although they're all 3 prong... my landlord is a slumlord, fundamentally. He has fixed absolutely nothing electrical (lighting is going serially down the hallway). I am moving, obviously ASAP.

But in the interim is there anything at all I can do to protect my electronics? I have lost a computer, several microwaves, etc. to what I'm pretty sure are surges. I have these running through protectors, but I understand that these do not work in the absence of a real ground...

I have opened up the outlets and connected the ground wire to where it's supposed to go... because it's an apartment bldg. I can't audit it actually going to the ground itself...

I know there is no replacement for a proper ground. Do I have any good options to mitigate surge potential to blow up my computer and peripherals? This is my livelihood... so I want to protect it and be able to upgrade components without worrying that they're just going to get destroyed.


texts: What "code" applies to projects that I do in my own home?

texts:
A good portion of the answers and discussion on this site references "code".

What does a DIY-er need to know about code as it relates to project in their own home? Most of what I can find online either refers to commercial projects or third-party projects.

Also, which code applies? For example, I live in Fairfax County, Virginia, in the USA. It would seem that there are at least 3 levels of code that might apply:

Fairfax County Home Improvement Code
State of Virginia Residential Code
International Residential Code


texts: Approved weatherproof way of connecting SER into panel

texts:
I have a knockout in an outdoor electrical panel that is above the uninsulated portion of the panel. I need to run 4/0 SER wire into the panel. According to NEC 312.2, I need a wet listed fitting when working above the uninsulated portion of the panel. However, I can only find weatherproof fittings for SE/SEU, but not SER.

Several web sites seem to recommend using standard dry-location clamps plus duct seal or caulk, but that doesn't seem to meet the requirements of 312.2.

What is the proper way of terminating SER at this location?

  312.2 Damp and Wet Locations. In damp or wet locations, surface-type enclosures within the scope of this article shall be placed or
  equipped so as to prevent moisture or water from entering and
  accumulating within the cabinet or cutout box, and shall be mounted so
  there is at least 6-mm (1/4-in.) airspace between the enclosure
  and the wall or other supporting surface. Enclosures installed in wet
  locations shall be weatherproof. For enclosures in wet locations,
  raceways or cables entering above the level of uninsulated live parts
  shall use fittings listed for wet locations.


texts: How long should I wait to turn on the water, after gluing my pipes together?

texts:
The hot water line from my water heater to the house just came apart recently shooting water everywhere, so I re-glue the parts and wait a few hours and turn on the water. A few minutes later it blows off again. I replaced some parts today, primed and glued the pipes together and same thing happened again. I've waited about 3 hours both times this has happened, do you think I need to wait longer? It has been about 30 degrees as well.

Am I turning on the water supply too fast?


texts: How can I pull single phase 120V from a 3 wire two phase 240V drop?

texts:
I want to run a couple of 110 volt plugs from a box that has 240 volts. I understand that I can't just use one of the two hots and wire both the neutral and ground to the 240V neutral.

My question is, what about if I use a second, new ground rod to create a ground, and then just use one of the 240V hot wires and it's neutral return?  Is that safe/legal?

THANKS!
Dave


texts: Bypassing a defective heating element in an oven toaster

texts:
So I have a typical oven toaster and based on my research, one of the heating element is defective (no continuity).
My oven has 4 heating elements and only 1 is defective.
2 elements are in the upper area and 2 are in the lower area of the oven.
I don't want to buy a replacement heating element since it's hard to find and expensive (it's cheaper to buy a new oven toaster nowadays)
I am trying to find a way to bypass this defective heating element and make the other 3 elements heat up.
If I put the defective element in the upper area, both elements in the upper area won't heat up.
If I put the defective element in the lower area, both elements in the lower area won't heat up.
Is there a way to make the 3 elements heat up without replacing the 4th and defective heating element?
I'm hoping to bypass the 4th and defective element.
BTW, I put the defective in the lower area, far side
Please see pictures for more details.
Thanks for your help.


texts:
I have an older house that has these on the wall of the two bedrooms:

Does anyone know what they might be? I took one out and it is has a long metal rod, but I cannot see anything that it attaches to or pushes. Trying to decide if this needs to stay or if I can remove and patch the walls.

Edit: Here's a pic of it removed:


texts: Can I move the main breaker and the electrical meter?

texts:
I feel this is a no-brainer (in that I should probably get someone more qualified in to do this) but I thought I'd ask some opinions.

I've just moved into a new place and one of the rooms is just big enough for me, my desk and my computer. It's my cave and I love it.

Only problem is, the mains breaker and the electrical meter are at the door and in a position that I'm likely to damage them accidentally one day...or just through wear and tear by passing by them frequently.

Is it an easy enough job to move the breaker and the meter up a bit, or should I just get someone in? I can wire plugs, fit sockets to the wall and that sort of thing - but this might just be a step too far.

And what sort of effort would it take a professional? Should it take him long / be expensive?


texts: How to find a motion sensing light switch that turns lights on AND off when motion is detected?

texts:
Location: USA.

The light switch to our laundry room is in the hallway outside the door. I replaced the standard light switch with a motion sensing switch (Leviton ODS10-ID). When we enter the room, the lights turn on automatically and stay on for about 10 minutes. The problem is, when we leave the room, the sensor is triggered again and the lights stay on for another 10 minutes while no one is in the room.

I have researched various types of motion sensing light switch products from all the major manufacturer's websites and can't find anything that will simply turn lights on when motion is detected and then turn off when motion is detected again. I'm okay with getting the lights turned off on me if someone happens to walk by the room while I'm in there.

It seems like a common need, so perhaps I am in need of guidance on the correct terminology to use. This is not a request for a product recommendation, rather a request for help on researching products or re-wiring needs to include an additional sensor that could potentially address this waste of electricity while continuing to have the convenience of a motion sensing light switch.


texts: Just bought old house, only some plugs are grounded

texts:
please help me! I am a first time home buyer and i just bought an older home. I have been researching  the web for an answer about grounding. On my first and second floor i have very few grounded plugs, my home inspector tested the 3 prong outlets and they are in fact NOT grounded. Two are, one in the kitchen and one in one of the two bedrooms.  On the second floor none were grounded.  It has a finished basement  and all the plugs down there are grounded. The breaker box in the basement is newer, 2001. I am having trouble finding an electrician  to come in with me and look into it further right now as I have not moved in yet. Am I screwed? Is it a good sign that at least some on the first floor are grounded? Is it a big deal that the second floor is not grounded at all? Also, are these GFIC outlets I keep reading about a good alternative? I would only want maybe 4 installed throughout the 1st and 2nd floor. As I do not think I want to rewire the house right now. I am concerned with protecting high end appliances and family.
Thoughts  please?
Thank you.


texts:
I am redoing the plumbing for a small studio that only needs (currently) 5 hot and cold lines to go to faucets and fixtures.

I am thinking of a manifold that looks like the following diagram:

This question asks about manifold loops, which most answers state is typically for a hot water recirculation loop. The last answer suggests less head loss when connecting both sides of a manifold to a supply. How much of a difference would that make? According to this table, you would lose about 8psi over 100ft of 1/2" PEX at a typical shower temperature and flow.

Also, how would a recirculation pump through the manifold help if the branch plumbing to a fixture doesn't have a return to the manifold? It seems like the manifold temperature might be constant, but if you have a long run to the fixture, you're still waiting on hot water.

What benefit, then, does a manifold offer?

EDIT: Added picture


texts: Why is my kitchen ceiling light not turning on with the light switch?

texts:
My kitchen light is not turning on with light switch, I checked it with a two wire light gadget and when I stick them in a electrical plug socket I get a bright light on the gadget, when I touch the kitchen light switch, the two screws on the right hand side, when light switch is turned on I get a very dim light on that checker, with the light switch off, I get no light at all on the gadget.

Could this mean I need a new light switch?


texts: Does the ground wire need to be continuous through the termination block?

texts: I need to re-route where the ground wire goes through the exterior wall. From the panel, it is run continuous through a termination block (picture below), through the exterior wall, then out to the ground rod. Can I cut the wire here to re-route, then connect it back to the termination block? Or does it need to remain continuous? I can of course disconnect it from the panel but it would be much faster/easier to just cut it here.


texts: My new dishwasher is smelling like sewer

texts:
I bought a Kitchenaid KDFE104D to replace an older Kitchenaid dishwasher. I never had any issues with the older dishwasher but eventually it died. I bought this one since I had a good experience with Kitchenaid.

First couple months all was fine but then dishwasher developed a disgusting egg smell. After research I found out that this was sulphur smell coming from sewer system.

I live in Boston area and my house is built in 1940. It has a septic system. I do not have a garbage disposal and I am extremely clean.

Here is what I tried:

Cleaned the sink, poured baking soda+ vinegar+hot water multiple times
I checked dishwasher filter, it is clean
I ran the dishwasher empty in very hot water with baking soda
I added baking soda and vinegar to loads
I tried smaller loads
I wash in extra long and extra hot cycle
I always rinse before i put dishes
I rewashed multiple times to get rid of the smell
I keep the DW door open and if it is smelling put baking soda and spray with vinegar
I remove dishes immediately after they are washed

So far nothing worked! Sometimes dishes don't smell immediately but when I use them I can smell them.

Often times dishwasher is smelling like sewer when it is empty so I am sure it is not because of dirty dishes.

It is so so so frustrating. I have no idea what else to do. Any other ideas?

Here is the under-sink plumbing:

I added more pictures of the sink side:

https://ibb.co/df6bTJ

https://ibb.co/fqekNd

https://ibb.co/itNuFy

https://ibb.co/fY1bTJ


texts: Replacing basement door and walls with a hatch

texts:
I'm trying to remove the structure that leads to the basement. (see sketch 1).

Once removed, there will be an empty space like (see sketch 2)

My aim is to build over it, a simple door (see sketch 3 below)

What are other solutions for that door (regardless good or bad), please?

As you can see from my sketches, I'm trying to gain space.

Thanks


texts: Hit metal piece while drilling through condo concrete ceiling

texts:
I am trying to install wide rectangular light fixture.

Something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Feit-Rectangle-Ceiling-Lighting-Diffused/dp/B00Y86OROW

I Hit a metal piece while drilling through condo concrete ceiling.
Is this dangerous?
Did I hit a wire?
The screw is quite long. How do I recover from this?


texts:
I have a sinkhole in my backyard along the fence line which began expanding during the last few months. There's a slight depression in the ground about 6' in diameter centered around one of the fence posts which is set in concrete. The fence post at the center of the hole is about 6" lower than the other posts. A hole just opened up on my side of the fence that's about 1' in diameter, and kind of shoots down at a 45° angle into my yard. My neighbor actually pointed it out, because the hole is more noticeable on her side of the fence.

How can I fix this? My neighbor says they've put a truckload of dirt down it without any real results. She told me yesterday that I needed to go stomp on my side of the fence and pack the sinkhole in, which sounded like a very bad idea to me. She also wants to pour concrete down the hole in an attempt to fill it up.

I'm worried that if dirt didn't solve the problem, concrete won't either, and we'll be stuck with an area that we can't excavate because there's a giant man-made concrete boulder in the way. What are the general steps involved with identifying the underlying cause of the sinkhole and the best solution to fill it in?

Follow Up: Our fence got mostly destroyed by high winds from a nearby tornado, so I went ahead and had the fence company repair the sinkhole while they were replacing the fence. They brought in a mini-backhoe (good call @shirlock) and started digging.

The sinkhole was filled with all sorts of construction debris, and something that may have once been part of a port-a-john (gross). Five feet down, it seemed like the debris was thinning out, so they stopped digging and poured a concrete footing to support the fence post.

We'll see if it holds up. I just hope we found the bottom of the sinkhole. It's hard to know since we couldn't excavate on my neighbor's side of the fence as well.


texts: Avoiding Satin Paint Streaks with Roller

texts: I have a wall that is 8 feet tall and about 20 feet wide with a strip of chair rail that runs the length of the wall. I used Sherwin Williams satin white paint. I gave the wall a light sanding with fine sand paper before I painted. I cut in the top, bottom, and the chair rail with a brush. Then rolled on the paint with a Purdy roller. The wall is now full of streaks (even after a second coat). I used the "W" technique (always worked fine for flat paint). I plan to repaint it again with the same paint and hopefully do better. I am reading to roll top to bottom from some sources while others say the "W" technique. What is the best way to avoid streaking with satin paint?


texts: How do I wrap pipe threads with teflon tape?

texts: When wrapping pipe threads with teflon tape (thread seal tape), what is the direction and recommended number of times to wrap the tape around the threads?  Any other recommendations or tip/tricks when applying teflon tape?


texts: Strange black mark against washing machine wiring harness

texts:
My washing machine stopped working and I can see that the front panel circuit board has scorch mark on it. I'm thinking about getting a second hand circuit board to replace it but wanted to check some thing before I waste my time and money.
I also noticed the following black marks (see image) against the machine where the wiring harness touches the machine. Notice also the black dust around the inside of the machine? Is this just some bacteria or burn marks. The wires themselves seem fine.

Thanks.