texts: What's the best way to flash this difficult corner above a roof in stucco?

texts:
How should I flash this tricky corner:

This is at the junction of a 2 story section and 1 story lower flat roof, done in foam.  The flashing was installed about 20 years ago, the wall below rotted and became a termite nest for various reasons, perhaps including the flashing.

This is the twin of the flashing at the opposite corner. There's no evidence of rot there, but then again, the first corner's problems were not in evidence prior to removal of stucco:

Further back showing the junction of the 1 story addition.  The major water originated in a window just above here, now fixed:

The water encouraged termites, who had probably decades to chew at the corner.  This is what it looked just after removing the stucco.  As is typical, none of this showed from the outside, the stucco shell showed no unusual cracks or problems:

Flashing just prior to first removal of stucco.  It was removed because of the crack you see:

And an overview of the good corner, twin of the bad corner:


texts:
The backstory:

My HVAC friend, my dad and myself installed new gas pipes in my house after the 40 y/o pipe started leaking.  Suffice to say, the old pipe was beyond repair, every retightening of the pipe resulted in the next elbow becoming lose to the point, I would be tearing out drywall, air ducts and possibly beams to access it.  So we ran new pipe.

We got the permit, had the county do the inspection.  It passed, and we had Xcel (electric and gas utilities) come out and replaced the meter which was also old and leaking, and turn on the gas.

The setup passed inspection with a larger than needed ground wire going from the black pipe, near the meter, to a grounding pole going 5 feet underground.  Xcel comes out today to replace the meter and hook up the gas and says my grounding wire cannot be there, that it will ruin the meter and rust the pipe where the wire clamps to the pipe and that a small current runs from my appliances to the meter.  There is about 9 combined feet of pipe exposed outside, from the meter to where the pipe enters the house.  I asked, what if lightning strikes the pipe and the Xcel guy says "Lightning will hit another part of the house first."  So I call my HVAC, ask his opinion, I talk to a retired Master PLumber at Home Depot, and the county Fire Marshall and they all agree that it should be grounded.  Oddly enough the Fire Marshall comments, "even if lightning hits the pipe, nothing will happen".

Remember, this is a black iron pipe installation, not CGGT.  It is black iron pipe all the way from the meter to the room with the water heater and furnace.  From the black pipe, a yellow flex pipe goes to the water heater, and a stainless steel flex pipe goes to the furnace.

So the plumbers and county is saying something different than Xcel.  Should the pipe be grounded?  Is bonding at the furnace enough?

Can I put a thin layer of something between the clamp and the black pipe?  Foam, thin plastic, wax paper?  The Fire Marshall suggested dirt ?!?


texts: Insulating or air sealing around pipes in brick

texts:
I recently moved into a single story double masonry house and discovered a rather noticeable amount of cold air coming from around the dishwasher in the kitchen. I pulled out the machine and found that to run the drain pipe for the sink they had removed several of the interior layer of bricks.

I'm wondering what the best approach would be to insulate or seal around the pipes to cut down on the cold air coming in. I was thinking a spray foam insulation may be the best bet due to all the crevices, but wasn't sure if it expanding could cause issues with the pipes. Is that the route I should go or is there a better option?


texts: Can I stack my boxed air conditioning units for storage?

texts: I pulled out the AC units from the windows and have put them back in the original boxes that they came in. Can I stack them one on top of another for storage? I know not to stack the units normally, but since they are in the manufacturer packaging I think it should be fine.


texts: Can I add a second circut using an existing ground and neutral?

texts:
I would like to add a second circuit to my BBQ area. There is conduit running from the panel to the BBQ with three wires, hot, neutral and ground.

Can I just add a second breaker and run a second hot wire and use the existing ground and neutral. Or do I have to pull three wires? I will have a GFI for each circuit.


texts:
Has it ever been acceptable for a multi wire branch circuit to be on 2 separate breakers? My house, which was built in the mid 90s, has the dishwasher and the disposal on the same 12/3 cable, but not on a common trip breaker.
I'm going to replace the breaker, but I'm just curious if this was ever allowed.


texts:
Today I found this strange device which seems like a DIY construction to me and I wanted to know what it is and what it does. It is connected to the lightning rod and it is also grounded to many points. Also, the thick black wire is going straight to an apartment. It is located near the lightning rod at the rooftop of the apartment building that I live. So can someone recognize this?

PS. I had more photos but I couldn't upload them cause of reputation restriction.


texts: My new dishwasher goes bonkers randomly. How can I test if "dirty power" is the culprit?

texts:
I bought a brand new dishwasher and within minutes of installing it, the dishwasher started itself, as in clicked "normal" and then clicked "start" all by itself.  It has capacitive buttons and it seemed it was registering phantom button presses.  I fiddled around and tried a few different things but nothing seemed to help.  So I called Maytag and they sent out a repairman.  He replaced the control panel and the problem persisted.  He then replaced the second circuit board (there are only two, one of which is the control panel), and the problem persisted.  Finally, Maytag replaced the entire unit.  The problem has continued, and once again it started within a few minutes after installation.
At this point, I find it unlikely that the problem is in the dishwasher.  I suspect the issue may be dirty power or a wiring issue in my wall.  They tested the outlet with a basic outlet tester and everything was fine.
So, where would you recommend I go from here?  I know capacitive buttons can be sensitive to noise on the wires, so I suspect dirty power of some sort, but I have no idea how to prevent that.  Should I try an uninterruptible power supply and see if the problem disappears?  Is there a simple noise filter I can install inline?
The phantom button presses are very frequent.  This makes testing a solution and seeing if it works simple and conclusive.  I'm just not sure where to start or if this is the right direction to go.


texts: Have 3prong dryer cord and 4prong dryer outlet.how do i chane it to work how much and show me pics n videos

texts:
How to change 3prong to 4 prong dryer cord
How to wire a 3prong outlet where a 4 prong is currently?


texts: Is it possible to get wiring for charging USB devices?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Do USB sockets draw power when not in use?

We're about to re-wire our house (in the UK).  It occurred to me that having the ability to plug USB devices directly into wall sockets to charge would be very convenient (as opposed to use their own chargers, which both uses up a socket in a room, and we inevitably fall into the bad habits of leaving the charger plugged in, thus drawing load even when it's not charging).

Is this a common thing?  Is it possible?  What kind of issues are there?

We're in the UK, so are particularly interested in answers within that context.


texts:
I plan on laying some vinyl planks onto cement but there are some cracks from leveling in the cement and with the new flooring you can "feel" where the cement barely sticks up at the crack.

Wasn't a problem with carpet but is now.  These are hairline cracks but you can feel them underfoot.

This seems to be a slightly different question than some out there because it's how to both "level and fill" at the crack location.


texts: LED Bulbs into Pre-existing Light Fixtures

texts: Why will LED bulbs not work in candlabra light fixtures where incandescent was working fine immediately prior to putting in LED.  In some cases I can screw down until I'm afraid of breaking bulb and it will work.  In others, I screw 1/2 way in and can jiggle the bulb around and it will light when I hold it cocked to one side.


texts: 3/4" compression coupling leaking for alpine burnham U.S. boiler

texts:
My 3/4" compression coupler, which is attached between the alpine burnham boiler's condensate trap stub and the pvc pipe that takes condensate to the neutralizer is leaking. I replaced this compression coupler with a new 3/4" COTS coupler hoping the leak would subside; unfortunately the issue still persists. The leak appears to be happening from the point of contact between the trap stub and compression coupler. Is there a particular coupler that I should use instead of the COTS I can get from any hardware store?
One thing I noticed is the compression coupler's gasket on the condensate trap stub does not sit snug and on the other side(PVC pipe to the neutralizer), the gasket appears to be snug.
Any recommendation is greatly appreciated.


texts: How to fix a garbage disposal pipe leak?

texts:
I have a slowly dripping joint where the disposal meets the drain pipe. I want to fix it myself and thought to just seal it with some sealant. What sealant should I use and/or should I not seal it, but use another technique?
Complete noob here.


texts: Electricians, do you see any problems with this wiring diagram for power at light shared between independent light groups?

texts:
I'm looking for input on the safety and code compliance of the wiring plan i've detailed, shown in the photos below.

Description of the broader project
My jurisdiction is subject to the 2014 NEC. I'm planning to install downlights throughout my house, on one circuit, power at light, with groups of lights on separate switches (led fixture housings rated for max 25 watt bulbs, and airtight-ic Halo Model #H750ICAT). There will be nearly 50 of these fixtures on this one circuit (intending to install with 20 amp dual CAFCI+GFCI breaker (Square D Model #QO120DFC, using 12ga nm-b cable).
Description of this portion of the project detailed in the photos below
This particular portion of the project is for a bathroom; one of the light housings will be installed above the shower (thus the AFCI+GFCI protected circuit for interior lighting, to provide both AFCI and GFCI protection).
Photos of Electrical Diagrams
The first pic shows the switches in the room I'm focusing on with this first stage. Please ignore the fan/heater/light/night-light unit; I'm specifically looking to get input on the safety and code compliance of the downlight wiring.

src
The second pic shows the general principle I think will allow me to carry power across the light fixtures, while switching groups separately.

src
The third pic details the principle in the second pic in greater detail

src
Thank you!!


texts: Is there a maximum length requirement for 3/4" liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit type-B?

texts: My application is for installing a hot tub outdoors and I'm reading varying answers online, so thought I'd ask here to confirm.


texts: Voltage Between Ungrounded Appliance and Ground

texts:
I noticed that our stainless steel refrigerator door makes a high pitched feedback sound when I touch it.
Investigating further, I found that the previous owner of the home (who left the fridge) removed the grounding prong from the outlet.
I measured the AC voltage between the door and a nearby grounded outlet and found a voltage of 24v. What's happening here, and is it dangerous?
Answers to questions in comments
The door has a dispenser in it. I cannot tell if it is the door or the person making the noise- it seems to originate from the point of contact and is louder when a better "connection" is made (whole hand vs finger)
The 24v I am measuring is AC. Turns out it is 24 when the fridge is running and 3v while holding temp. The rest of the house is grounded, at least I can test an outlet and get voltage difference between hot and ground.
The PO broke the pin off the plug- the socket in the wall is functional.


texts: Granite countertop installation on top of 4x4 outdoor

texts:
I am planning to have a piece of granite countertop 2' x 8' outdoor like the below photo.

I could run two (2) 2x4 on the side of the 4x4 posts to make the bottom materials 7" wide. Then lay the outdoor plywood (black color ones) on top. The granite will be on top of the plywood.

(photo doesn't show the plywood)

My questions:

Is this "setup" strong enough to support? The 4x4 are mounted on top of deck beam and joists. So those are OK. I am wondering if I need to do three rows of two 2x4 each (total of six 4x4) instead of using three 4x4.
Is there regulation / best practice on the two 4x4 on the side in term of how far from the granite edge? I am thinking about 3" from the edge. That leaves me 1.5" plywood overhang. And then another ~1.5" for the countertop bevel edges. So basically, I should try to get the 4x4 as close to the side edges as possible, right?

Thanks.


texts: Adding a C (common) wire to my Goodman (Janitrol) furnace

texts:
I have a Goodman Janitrol furnace and I am needing to add a C (common) wire, for the newer thermostats. I would like to avoid the substituting G for C, and just run an additional wire.

I have read several post that suggest to use one of the Blue wires coming from the furnace transformer. I have attached pictures for reference. In picture 1, you can see that I have two blue wires and one green wire (which I'm assuming is still part of the blue family), one red wire, one white wire, and one black wire. One of the blue wires runs from the transformer to the switch (which says ON), the other blue wire goes to the board, and the green wire goes to a ground bolt.

Which of these wires would it be best to connect the C wire to? If I connect it, is there any potential electrical issues that could occur? Lastly, if I connect a C wire to one of the blue wires (or green), can I then just run that wire straight to the thermostat and plug it into the C-labeled connection?

Picture 1

This is where one of the blue wires goes. All the wires run from point A to point B, and they have not been split.

Any help would be much appreciated, if you have done this successfully please let me know how you did it.

Would I be able to connect the Common wire from the ground circled in the picture below?

Thank you


texts: Will holes bored for radon mitigation cause basement flooding?

texts:
A company has said that they would drill a hole in the basement to get rid of radon level.

Will this cause flooding from the ground beneath the basement?

Thanks.

Phil


texts: Finishing a rough-surface wall in bedroom

texts:
We have an unfinished rough-surface wall in our upstairs bedroom,  (see the photo)
Its surface looks covered in parallel plastic threads or fibers, with lots of sharp knots and some nail heads, glued to the wall. It was this way when we moved in.
We want to install a kids' bunk bed next to this wall. But first we need to "finish" (make smooth) the wall, otherwise the kids may injure themselves.
May we ask:

How is this unfinished surface called - what keyword to search for?

What is the right procedure to "finish" it - again, the keywords to search for?


texts: How do I cheaply paint walls that duct tape stripped and ruined?

texts:
I recently made the mistake of using duct tape to attach pictures and posters on my dorm room walls.

When I took the pictures down today, the tape took some of the paint off the walls along with it. From the looks of it, there are two layers of paint and at some places the tape took both layers off with it. I've attached two pictures to highlight the situation (picture 1 and picture 2)

I'm wondering what I can do to fix this myself, and avoid paying for a paint job out of my security deposit. Any advice is appreciated, though if there is a particular product you recommend, I would love to have a link to it on Amazon so that I can order it online.


texts: Adding new electrical outlet; ceiling insulation is sandwiched between drywall and plywood (attic)

texts:
I'm looking for a good technique to add an outlet to a wall that currently has no electrical. My initial thought until my discovery was to:

1) Identify the stud I want to anchor the outlet to

2) drill up through the ceiling next to the wall and next to where the stud is

3) create a Wire entry through the top plate by drilling back down through the attic (having identified where along the wall I would like to create that hole

4) Feed the wire down

5) Cut a hole in the drywall and install

The plywood top layer is complicating this technique because 1) now I don't necessarily know where the top plate is (though I have a decent guess -- probably where the plywood sheets meet) and 2) I don't quite know if drilling up through the ceiling will work now that I have to run fish tape through two holes 3.5" apart, and separated by insulation.

Thoughts?


texts:
The power in my house just went out for maybe 15-30 seconds.  When the power came back on, one of my AFCI breakers was tripped.  Thing is, I can't get it to stay back on.  Every time I turn it back on, it trips after about 45 seconds.  I went upstairs and unplugged everything from the outlets in the bedroom and turned off the switches, but it keeps on happening.  I tested the circuit with the test button and it worked, but the breaker keeps tripping.  Any idea what could be going on?

EDIT Added picture of breaker

Solved

Well it's what I expected - the breaker was bad.  Hooked up the circuit that was on it to another AFCI in the panel and it worked fine.  Hooked up a good circuit to the bad breaker and it still tripped.  POS AFCI breakers...


texts: 811 just marked my utilities, can I mow my lawn?

texts:
I had 811 mark my utility lines. They were here today.They marked with both spraypaint and flags.

The markings are valid per their rules for 30 days. It will be about 2 weeks before I can get the landscaping work done. In the mean time is it OK to mow the spraypainted marks?


texts:
At Thermostat

Fan was on Auto
Cooling was On

Outside Unit was making noise.
Outside Unit Fan not coming on at all

Next to the compressor on the Wall there was On Off Switch, I turned off power from the outside unit but it still kept making that noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYYfuzDp5DU&feature=share

I went inside turned off the Cooling and noise went away

It has two capacitors
30uf and another small one 5uF

Unit is Lennox

Is the issue with my capacitors?
Can i replace these two capacitors with a single 35uf one ?
Or i am thinking it completely wrong and it's something else?


texts: Why does recommended door rough opening height add 2-1/2" to door height?

texts:
I am skeptical about the recommended 2-1/2" addition to the door height for an interior door rough opening (assuming only subfloor). Consider the following estimated (meaning I am unsure if they are right) measurement stack:

1/2" flooring cover thickness
1/2" clearance b/ween flooring and door roughly
1/8" clearance between door and jamb header
3/8" jamb header thickness
TOTAL 1-1/2"

That provides for a whole inch of slack (2-1/2" recommended rough opening height minus 1-1/2" estimated allocation above).  Isn't a whole inch a bit too much of a slack provision?  I understand you can shim but it seems to me that a half inch to and inch would be too much of a gap for shims (OK, can use 1x lumber but still I think it is too much).

An alternative measurement stack, especially correction with my clearance provisions would be appreciated to dispel this phenomenon to me.


texts: Replace portion of slab for radiant heat

texts:
Our 1600 SF basement has a slab floor with no insulation underneath. I'm redoing the bathroom (roughly 100 SF, with 7' along the foundation wall) and would love to put in radiant floor heating, but I don't want the floor to be 2" higher than everything else to allow for insulation over the slab.

I'll be jackhammering out significant portions of the floor to reroute plumbing already. Could I replace the slab in the bathroom with something more conducive to radiant heat (e.g. rigid foam with a framed floor on top), or put down rigid foam and pour a thinner slab on top of it? What problems could these approaches cause?


texts: Replace light switch with weird wiring and no ground

texts:
I would like to replace this old light switch with a newer one, but as all newer electrical items it has a grounding screw to be connected and there is no obvious ground connection available in the box.

This house was built in 1963 (Colorado, USA), and it has several 3-prong outlets around the house that look newer, but not on this wall.

My investigations in this box actually make me worried if any of our 3-prong outlets have proper ground, as I read that the standard socket checking devices could be fooled with ground-neutral connections?

Here's why I'm worried:

In the switch box photo one can see 2 neutrals connected via wire nut
In the back of the box (which is metal) one can see a blank wire looking like its intention is to "ground" the box? It is screwed to the box at the back.
I confirmed that the neutrals and the box are electrically connected (does that equal a bootleg ground?)

Adding to the confusion is the cabling of the switch:

one red going in above,
two blacks at the bottom, both on the same screw (but this should be a 2-way switch)

  Hypothesis regarding the last point: Half of the rooms in this house
  have fans installed, is the double-wired black maybe a provision in
  case one wants to install a fan in this room as well?

So, the new switch of course wants a hot, a neutral and a ground wire, what am I supposed to do?

For additional background I add a photo of the 2-prong socket that is on the same wall. It also has a blank copper wire connected to the back of the box (interestingly, in both cases the screw connection was rather weak, I tightened it, hope that wasn't a special technique in older houses for some reason?)

My background, in case you wonder what level of detail you can load your answer with: I'm a physicist with lab experience (so give me all your details! ;), but no formal education as electrician; meaning, I'm confident enough when I understand things, but also reasonable enough to concede to the professionals when it just gets too complicated.

EDIT: Adding layout graphic how it is now.

EDIT2: Attaching a graphic implementing the solutions given below.


texts: What kind of sealant should I use for the exterior

texts:
The sealant that was used before has degraded and air is leaking from the outside into the room. Additionally there is a gap between the floor and the wall. For interior of the room I was going to use latex to seal the gap between wall and the floor. For the exterior sealant I was going to use silicone to plug the gap.
Exterior gap between aluminum siding and asphalt roof/deck

Interior gap between wood flooring and wood walling about (1-2")


texts: Looking for the least expensive way to level Basement floor

texts: How can I level my basement floor, which has a 2-3inch dip in the middle?


texts: Installing new light fixture with two sets of wires

texts:
I just moved into this house and there was no light fixture above the sink. Thankfully, they left the wires! So I bought a pendant to hang here. One set of wires is obviously for this light, and the other set is for a light tied to the same switch. Am I correct in assuming that the set with the orange ground wire is for the new fixture?

Also, do I need to cap the unused wires here or should I do something else?


texts: Am I required to replace a non code compliant balustrade?

texts:
I am purchasing a flat in Brisbane, Queensland Australia. Prior to purchase, I had the building inspected and they've noted that the balcony balustrade doesn't meet height requirements for my jurisdiction.

Specifically:

The balcony is more than 1 meter above the ground.
The balustrade is not quite 1 meter high.

The structure was built in the 1970s, prior to the regulations being put into place. If I take ownership of the property as is, am I obligated to replace the balustrade?


texts: How to identify electrical panel busbar rating

texts: recently I got a bid from a solar company and they said I don't need to upgrade my eletrical box since it is rated at 125 amps, and for that value, I can install a 7k system based on calculation here https://www.altestore.com/blog/2018/11/grid-tied-solar-breaker-box-120-percent-rule/#.XzwpBpNKg8N. I poked around the panel itself, and found two ratings, 100amps and 125 amps, and I am not sure which rating should that solar company to use, and definitely blowing out my electrical box after solar panels are installed is the last thing I want to see.


texts: Extremely loud pop inside apartment building, half the outlets (on the same curcuit) wont work in my apartment

texts:
There was an extremely loud pop somewhere above my apartment in my building. Over the next few minutes a strong smell started coming through the AC, random lights would flicker then cut out, and items would stop working all together (night lights, child monitor etc.). this happened throughout the building. i was told it was a power outage by our power company, however, i have never been in an outage where random outlets would work/not work that were on the same circuit in the breaker box. some lights/outlets would be constantly browning out while others were not (also on the same circuit). resetting breakers did nothing, resetting outlets did nothing. i unplugged everything and waited outside until the issues were resolved. everything started to work again about 2 hours later.

I was just curious if i should be worried about anything because the housing authority had no answers and the power company just said it was a power outage. But there was a very loud pop (borderline small explosion) sound and a burning smell in my AC. thanks for any help


texts: osb - Do I start the first sheet 5/8" out from edge?

texts: I am putting on a flat roof on a building that is 24 x 44 block. The roof consists of : top and bottom sill plate, face plate, 9 - 4x4 treated posts for support, 2x10x12 joist every 16" on center with a 2x4x12 wedged to allow for slope of 1 3/4" per 12 foot side, 5/8" osb, roof felt, tar, and rolled roofing. My question is when I start the osb should I leave a 5/8" gap on the edge between the osb and the face plate? I know there is a 1/8" gap between the osb but what about the first piece so it will line up to the 16" on center joists for nailing?


texts: I have a few repairs to make  that would necessitate some welding. I could do it differently, for example with pop rivets, but I take this opportunity to learn welding. However I'm a bit concerned about the unhealthy part of the process, in particular breathing carcinogen fumes. Is there a way to mitigate those risks ? I'm talking specifically about: Shielded  metal arc welding, a.k.a stick welding.


texts: 2 Lights in my kitchen. One light is controlled by 2 switches on opposite walls. The other light is on a separate switch. Can I connect the 2?

texts: Could I connect the red light to the blue circuit, simply by using a couple wire connectors in the 2-gang? If I can, I'd remove the red switch, and just use a double-wide 1-gang toggle switch cover.


texts: What type of wire should I use from the meter to a 100 amp main breaker panel?

texts: I have a 60 amp breaker panel in the middle of the house 25 feet from the meter. It currently has 8 gauge wire that runs into and through the attic, over to the panel and down into the panel for a total of about 36 ft of wire. I want to upgrade to a 100 amp main breaker panel at the existing location because I don't want to have to run the house wires back to near the meter. What's the minimum size wire I need for the hot, neutral and ground between the meter and the panel?


texts:
My house has a tin roof over a porch. The house is about one hundred years old, and the tin porch roof is original, as far as I know.

My question is whether the tin roof (which is currently in good shape -- no rusting or leaks) will last indefinitely provided that I periodically apply layers of roofing tar to maintain it, or if tin roofs only last so long.

Another way of asking this is: "Is roofing tar a temporary fix for tin roofs that need to be replaced, or will it keep the roof in serviceable shape indefinitely when applied properly?"

When I say "roofing tar," I mean a coating like this, not the "wet patch" temporary fix stuff:

I ask because a contractor is trying to convince me to hire him to replace the tin roof, but it's currently fine and has apparently been there for a long time, so it's not clear why I'd need to rip it out and install a new one.


texts: I have some rusty metal L-beams that I want to use for a project but I don't want to spend the time and money to have them sandblasted. I have heard that you can spray Hammerite paint right over the rust and that this will adhere to the metal but it sounds too good to be true. I looked at a can of this Hammer paint and the ingredients don't appear to be any different than other spray paint primers which must be applied to bare metal only. Does anyone have experience with this Hammer paint?


texts: Sink clogged completely when using NaOH drain cleaner

texts:
I used a drain cleaner containing sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to unclog it. I followed the drain cleaner's instructions to the letter:

pour the NaOH into the pipe entrance.
pour hot water.

As soon as I started pouring hot water, it started pooling. No water would pass through. The sink was completely clogged now, because the NaOH formed a solid "bathtub plug" inside the pipe! (I could see solid white NaOH)

Pouring more water had no effect, so I carefully threw citric acid grains (a weak acid, contained in lemons), hoping the acid would react with the base (NaOH). Initially, the acid reacted with the NaOH (I could see bubbles coming out), but then it stopped completely.

WARNING: Acid and NaOH reactions can be very violent. In my case there was enough water to act as a heat-sink preventing boiling and splashing, and I was adding acid slowly. I can't emphasize enough how dangerous NaOH is. Use full face protection and gloves, otherwise you could go blind or get severe skin burns.

I don't want to open the pipes (if flow is restored it could splash NaOH solution on me).

Is there any other way to safely unclog the NaOH?
What exactly happened? Why did NaOH block the pipe completely, and why did the acid become ineffective after a while?

Sidenote on why I did it:

My partially clogged kitchen sink would allow small amounts of water to pass through the pipe. I've been using a plunger when it was getting clogged (snake was ineffective).

A plumber had told me in the past, that the problem is deep inside the wall (about 3 meters into the pipe) and is very hard to fix. He also suggested using NaOH a couple of times a year to keep it clean.

Top view and side view respectively:


texts: How do I remove this old metal ceiling junction box?

texts:
There is this metal bar over this junction box which also holds a light fixture.

There is also 4 BX cables connected to it in which I am trying to upgrade the existing light fixture attached to it and use a Romex cable to power recessed lights.

Do I need to upgrade this junction box if I need to add a romex cable?

Does anyone know what this type of box is called? I am trying to research it but do not know.


texts: How can I mount speakers that don't have mount adapters?

texts:
How can I mount a pair of speakers to my apartment walls?  Specifically, how do I mount speakers that have no mounting points?  They are from a turntable set from the 80's most likely before the standard was to include a screw hole or wall mount.  What's the best way to go about this with the least amount of damage done to the speakers and the apartment wall?

For those of you that were wondering

Speaker Dimensions: 7.5 inches deep x 12 inches wide x 23 inches tall


texts: Do I need to cut into my drywall to install a switch?

texts:
I'm looking to put a light in outside my house.  The light is going to be positioned directly behind the outlet I have pictured below where the wires are sticking out.  I want the switch to control power to this light:

I suspect it to be using this kind of gang box:

I think I need to:

Hit one of the knockouts in the gang box out either in the top or bottom of the box.
Drill  a hole in the 2x4 to get the switch where I need it.

I want to do this with cutting out as little drywall as possible.  Can I do this without cutting out all of the dry wall between the switch and the outlet?  If so, how do I removed the gang box to remove one of the knock outs?


texts: Changing out ceiling light fixture and found no box, - how to proceed?

texts:
I am replacing a ( hanging ) ceiling fixture in the dining room and found only wires and no box ( see photos ).

There's no junction box and the wires are old and gnarly looking. The house was built in 1900, and while I believe most of the electrical has been redone, there may still be knob and tube in the ceiling.

The other fixture I just replaced in the living room had same old wiring, but a plastic box was there so it seemed fine. This looks dangerous to me, but would love to hear what you all think.

Is it just a matter of putting a box up there and pulling the wires through ?

Fixture requires a rating of 75C, is this wiring safe? Or do I need to get a pro ?

Happy to provide more pix if that's helpful. Thanks in advance.


texts: If I want to deodorize my carpet with baking soda, should I spray water on the baking soda?

texts: https://web.archive.org/web/20160715111807/http://www.housekeepinghere.com/weekly/baking-soda-carpets/ says that I should keep the carpet dry, while http://www.repair-home.com/flooring/carpet/carpet-cleaning-solutions.html says that I should spray the area with water.


texts: Can I use these replacement ballast even though the yellow wires are on the opposite end?

texts: I am trying to replace a ballast for my garage lighting.  I removed the old one but there are absolutely no markings, numbers, diagrams or anything on it.  It is a 2 lamp 120V fixture with 40W T12 bulbs.  Based on the chart at Lowe's I bought a Pilips Advance AmbiStar RELB-2S40-N.  Besides being a different size and much lighter, the 2 yellow wires are on the same end as the red and blue wires with a black and a white on the other end.  The old ballast has red and blue wires on one end and the black, white and 2 yellows on the other end. Does that mean it is not the right one?  I'm scared to try it.


texts: Can a vent hood designed for 12" deep cabinets be installed under IKEA's 15"-deep cabinets?

texts:
We're redoing our teeny-tiny condo kitchen (8 feet square), and one way we're saving space is with smaller appliances - 18" wide dishwasher, and 24" wide fridge and range. For the 24" range, we need a 24" wide vent hood, preferably an under-cabinet type1.

Most places sell 24" wide vent hoods as a standard, stock item2, so that's not the issue. The problem is, we're getting IKEA cabinets, and in their new(ish) SEKTION line, the wall cabinets are 15" deep instead of the 12" that everyone else does. IKEA does sell vent hoods to fit their deeper cabinets, but they're all 30" wide, which just will not fit, no matter how I play around with their kitchen designer program3.

So, I come to my question: can we stick an under-cabinet vent hood designed for a standard 12" deep cabinet under a 15" deep cabinet? And if yes, how? Would a 2×4 screwed to the wall, underside covered with metal flashing, suffice? Has anyone already done this? If yes, do you have pictures?

1 Yes, you lose space inside the cabinet for the vent, but there's still room for things like baking sheets and cutting boards. Did I mention this kitchen is 8 feet square?
2 I really don't understand this: 24" wide ranges are totally a special-order item, as in, for the options we wanted (electric, smooth top, and white) we had a selection of exactly... one. The vent hood is supposed to be at least as wide as the range. So why are 24" vent hoods standard? Who buys them? I don't get it.
3Which is awesome, but don't even try running it in memory-leaky Firefox.


texts: Can I put a sanding drum in a routing table and use it like a spindle sander?

texts:
If I mount something like one of these:

in a router in a router table, have I just created a spindle sander, or are there other differences in how they work? If you've already got a router, what would be the benefit of getting an actual spindle sander vs a kit like this?


texts: Major Leak at pressure gauge inside my well house

texts: It was just discovered that my well house has been leaking at the pressure gauge profusely for who knows how long I'm going to guess a minimum of 6 weeks. I cannot locate a main water shut off arm as it shows in other diagrams. I have the power off to the well house. I do realize that the whole well house is going to have to be redone more than likely in all the other issues along with that. Can I replace the pressure gauge myself properly with a new one and re- pressurized the tank itself without causing further damage? Is that all they would need to be done urgently to restore water to my house? Or is there more? I am a single mom and cannot afford a repairman out here but I have to have water. I would be ever so grateful for your advice


texts:
We have a set of EnerSol solar panels (black water pipes) which are installed on the roof. Our pool pump sends water up to the panels via black PVC pipes. The water goes through the panels, warms significantly then returns back down to the pool.

When it's running it works great. The water feels warm coming out of the jets and the pool is nice and warm all summer.

The problem is... we are up in Southern Canada and the winters are harsh on the panels. Every spring we have burst PVC pipes in various places which necessitate an expensive call to a plumber. This despite carefully blowing out all the water from the pipes in the fall. (I suspect some water doesn't fully drain due to being at the bottom of the roof slope.)

Are black PVC pipes appropriate in this situation?
Anyone have a similar setup with any advice?


texts: How can I estimate square footage of fencing for stain?

texts:
I have a fence that looks like the following:

I plan on staining this fence with a paint sprayer and this stain product. The product notes that one gallon will cover Coverage Area (sq. ft.) 250 ft². Can someone help me determine how to calculate the number of gallons I would need?


texts: Are all of these smoke detectors required?

texts:
My house has eight smoke detectors; one in the basement, one in an upstairs bonus room, and six on the main floor.  The main floor is "T" shaped; the bedroom area forms the top of the "T", and the rest of the rooms are in the "stem" of the "T", connected by a hallway.  All of the smoke detectors are in the bedroom area.  Here's a rough layout (the dots are the smoke detectors):

As shown in the diagram, the main floor has no smoke detectors except the ones in the bedroom area (which are audible on the rest of the floor).  Each bedroom or potential bedroom has one just inside the doorway, and there is another in the hallway just outside each doorway.  I'm thinking of making the following changes:

Master BR: There is no door between the MBR and the adjoining hallway.  The MBR has an 11 ft ceiling, so I need to drag a huge ladder from the garage at the other end of the house, and navigate it through doorways and hallways past breakable stuff to access this unit.  Since there is one right outside this room with no intervening barriers, which also serves the MBth, I would remove the one inside the MBR.
Bedroom: I would leave the one inside the bedroom and remove the one in the hallway immediately outside it, which doesn't seem to serve any purpose.
Office: With smoke detectors located in areas on either side of this room and in the hallway immediately outside, the one in the room seems redundant.  Also, the one in the hallway is unobstructed to the rest of the main floor, so it serves that area.  If I removed the hallway unit and left the office unit, all of the alarms could potentially be behind closed doors and less audible in the rest of the house (which is an open floor plan).

So I would remove the one inside the office and cover the electrical box with a plate.  If a future owner wants to turn it into a bedroom and a smoke alarm is required inside the room, it would be trivial to put one back.

Question: Do these changes sound reasonable, or are all of the existing smoke detectors required by code (in Virginia)?

Impetus for change: At 3AM this morning, we were awakened to all eight alarms going off (they are interconnected, so they all sound if any one is triggered).  It turned out that they are all 12 years old and one had an age failure (smoke detectors are supposed to be replaced after 10 years but the manufacture dates were hidden on the backs of the units).

So there will be the expense of replacement and then an ongoing requirement to periodically drag in a ladder, test each one, and replace batteries.  There are also three extra sources of potential false alarms, and it is a long, nerve-wracking task to identify the source when all are blaring -- every unit needs to be removed from its wiring harness.  I don't have an issue if each one serves a purpose, but it seems like the builder went nuts with smoke detectors and installed three more than apparently are needed.


texts:
I have a half bath to which I'd like to add a shower.  It is quite small; currently, the smallest shower pan I've found (32"x32") is too large to fit.  I've considered turning the entire room into a 'wet room' like I've seen done in Europe, in which the entire room is the shower, and the toilet and other fixtures are all waterproof.

However, keeping resale values in mind, is this an accepted approach in US bathroom design?


texts:
We have recently replaced the windows in our home and insulated the basement, making the house much more airtight.

This combined with the fact that our dryer currently vents into the basement, we have no bathroom fans or a range hood fan makes me think that our house may be too humid than is healthy.

What would be an easy/cost-effective way to test the humidity levels in my house so that I can find out if it is too high?


texts: How can I upgrade an electrical panel if there's not enough space around the panel to meet current codes?

texts:
I have an older house (built in the 70s) with a 100A breaker panel installed in the corner of what is a converted garage.  The history passed down from the previous owner is the garage was converted some time in the 90s.

The breaker panel is full and I would like to upgrade to a 200A with more space.

The panel opens 90 degrees but has only 24 inches of wall space.  From what I've read the current code is 30 inches.

Will I be able to upgrade the panel in it's current location and be code compliant since it's an upgrade vice new install?  Or will I need a sub panel?


texts: Hanging an over-the-range microwave without top cabinet

texts:
I have an over-the-range microwave with wall bracket but no cabinets above.  It is safe to hang it solely by the wall bracket or is the top cabinet to bolt it to a requirement?

If it matters, this is the microwave in question


texts: Can carpet scraps be used to repair existing carpet?

texts:
I recently had new carpet installed and the installers just left the scraps in my garage. I have several that are of somewhat appreciable sizes, the smallest being 3'x5'.

I'm weighing the pros and cons of keeping it (storage space is a premium at my house), so I'm curious if it is worth keeping for partial replacement, say if a stain occurred I could cut out a square of the existing carpet and install this.


texts: What's the proper way to go about replacing this faucet fixture? Is it always replace every part at once or can I mix and match if I like part of it?

texts:
So I really like the handles of this sink fixture but I want to change the spigot to something that has a sprayer you can pull out to rinse the hard to reach corners of the sink.

The part where the red arrow is unscrews and comes out. Do hardware stores like home depot sell just this part of the fixture or do I have to replace the entire thing? If I have to replace the entire thing I assume it means I have to find one that will fit the same footprint of this one? Are these generally a standard width apart?


texts: Getting the most out of a low yield well

texts:
I have a low yield well: it's only 27 feet deep which is a big part of the problem. Recently a neighbor had their well re-dug to 350 feet which I guess lowered the water table, because ever since we have been running out of water much faster than before. If someone takes a shower, a second shower runs out of water about halfway through and it takes hours to get a decent amount back.

I know the best way to resolve this is either to get a new well dug, or to get a storage tank with a secondary pump. A new well is not happening right now because of the cost. However we are in the middle of building a new bathroom, and the tub we purchased will require us to get either a second or a larger water heater since our current one is 40 gallons but the tub takes around 55. Would the water stored in a second 40 gallon water heater make it take longer to run out of water when taking showers, doing dishes, etc., or will I still need to install a storage tank?


texts: Are Construction Screws equivalent to a framing nails?

texts:
I am not asking for opinions or what is better than the other. I am looking for literature with data that shows the specifications and guidance on how to compare them with each other on a performance level (not cost).
I hope I am using the appropriate nomenclatures here. Correct me if I am wrong please.

Framing Nail: 16d 3.5 inches long
Paslode Framing Nails: 3.5 inches long 0.131 diameter shank (PN: 097987)
GRK R4 Multe-Purpose Screw #9 3.5 inches long
GRK R4 Multe-Purpose Screw #10 3.5 inches long

BTW, I own a Paslode Cordless XP Framing Nailer.
I will be doing some framing that will be inspected by the AHJ.  I would like to use GRK R4 Multip-purpose screws for the framing of the 2 by X lumber. Let's assume all fasteners are acceptable by the AHJ.
How do I compare the specifications of framing fasteners?
I presume that Item 1. Framing Nail is the standard.
Thanks,


texts: Removing a keystone jack from the wall plate

texts: I am about to install some ethernet cord with jacks I know I will upgrade in the future. However, I'd like not to waste the jacks that will be replaced. How will I be able to remove them from the wall plate without damaging them? Is it possible?


texts:
i hope someone can give me hand here

So i have a light on/off switch which i want to change into a power outlet switch, the thing is i'm a bit confused with the wiring.

The Light switch has - 2x red wires, 1x green wire, 1x white wire, can i even change it into a power outlet?

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP1U9oBc9B8eg7zCoUmUX5ggBP30nSmf1l4HCnB (light switch)

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOEnIPk8zhzqGeVciQw-yspDCWkpdEnWQ0dic4T (Power outlet)

UK plug

Thank you in advance


texts: Newly framed bathroom wall not square, how bad will the tile look?

texts:
I'm in the middle of a new bathroom install and have hit a bit of a snag with a bathroom wall being out of square. This bathroom was just framed from scratch, and as you can see from the attached photo one corner is pretty badly out of square. I already had to have the contractor fix the studs once (before the drywall went up) as they were even further out of whack - the stud in the bad corner was about 2 inches further out that it was supposed to be. But obviously it's still not even close to being square.

This happens to be the side of the bathroom where a tiled shower will be, and since we're using 2"x2" floor tiles, I'm concerned about how this is going to look with that much of a running/angled gap on that side. The last thing I want are little angled tile pieces running along that side. Would you have the contractor redo that section of drywall to make sure it's square? Or would you consider this within acceptable tolerances?

Thanks]1


texts: Are light socket to outlet adapters safe for outdoor holiday lights?

texts: We just moved into a split level house about 40 years old.  This will be our first Christmas and I cannot figure out how to put up lights because we don't seem to have any outlets outside.  I could buy socket adaptor and put it on one of my outside lights but I don't know if this would be safe or not.  Suggestions welcome.  Not enough time to get an electrician out to put in some outside sockets.


texts:
I need advice or additional hints on how to handle rust in a shower drain.

Our landlord installed a shower with a shallow drain. The drain is fixed with 3 screws and a big seal that fits the rim of the drain whole above and beneath, consider it U-shaped. I discovered a missing part in the seal, at least on the upper side, and opened dismounted the drain founding rust on the enamel upper side of the shower.

Now I got a new seal and will change the broken one. How should I handle the rust part? I would go with a bit of sandpaper and clean the rust off, but then? Should I use some sort of coating before remounting it with the new seal?


texts: Tightening/loosening a screw spins the threaded screw well

texts:
Not quite home improvement but I don't know who else to turn to.

I installed a monitor into a mount with the wrong screw and now it's stuck. As the screw spins, the metal well that seated the screw into the plastic case, also spins.

The problem is that the design had the screw wells only attached to the case, where as others would have it secured to the guts of the monitor.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


texts: Should my chimney cooker hood have a flue?

texts:
I have a chimney-style cooker hood over my hob. Today I removed the cover from the chimney, expecting there to be a flue behind it going outside the building, but there wasn't.

Does this mean that the hood has been installed incorrectly? Is it actually doing anything? Shouldn't there be a flue to remove the fumes from my kitchen?

Apologies if this is a stupid question but it seemed odd that my cooker hood should just release the fumes back into my kitchen!


texts: Why is my sewer drain line suddenly having frequent blockages?

texts:
One month ago I experienced bubbling in my downstairs toilet when someone was taking a shower upstairs. The toilet bubbling concerned me and I noticed a little water on the floor the next day, nothing much, as if it had just overflowed very slightly.

I called a plumber who came out and inspected the drain line and found that the line was blocked with dried sludge. He mentioned it was probably because when the septic was last emptied in the summer, about 10 months ago, that the drain line was not sprayed out and flushed. He did that and everything was resolved, so he said.

About one week ago, I experienced some bubbling in the downstairs toilet again and tried to remedy the problem with double the recommended dose of clog remover (Drano) down the nearest sink. I put my laundry in the washer and timed it for 4 AM so it would be done in the morning. The next morning I went to use the restroom and opened the bathroom door into about an inch or two of water. Some blue stuff came up the toilet with water and had flooded the downstairs bathroom, there was nothing really gross except smelly water and some toilet paper. There was standing water in the washer as well.

The same plumber came out and inspected the drain line again and found a blockage of toilet paper. We were both concerned about some kind of damage to the pipe and so he flushed the drain line again and showed me the whole drain line to the first toilet, with a camera snake. It showed no damage he said and I couldn't see anything obvious. He showed me how to unclog the septic inlet if I heard bubbling again.

Today, I noticed my toilet downstairs was flushing poorly so I went and checked out the septic inlet, and sure enough there was a bit of toilet paper in there.

This has not been a problem until recently and I have lived in this house for about 10 months. What could be causing this problem to suddenly appear? No new people have come to live with me and I have been making sure to flush waste first and then toilet paper second, as recommended by the plumber to see if that helps the situation.

In addition to this, I also bought a bulk package of Drano from Costco and used it on all of the drains.

At this point, the only change I have made that could affect the system is that I installed an above ground sprinker run (4 sprinkers) to my lawn, which is above the drain field.

Is it possible that this could be causing the water level to rise periodically inside the septic tank to backflow under heavier use (shower + toilet or washing machine)?

What can I do to further diagnose the issue and is there anything that comes to the mind of the experienced plumber here?


texts: How should I handle old wallpaper over top of lead paint?

texts:
We removed a layer of thick textured wallpaper on a wall in the dining room of our 1959 split-level; it came off very easily in large strips. Unfortunately underneath it is a layer of much older (1970s?) and much uglier wallpaper which comes off only with extensive elbow grease, and immediately under that (we've only removed a small area so far) is a layer of flaking leaded paint (verified both by small-squares flaking pattern and with a home lead test kit). To add additional complexity, all of this is on top of some kind of 1/2in composite wallboard; we can only access a very small area of what's behind the wallboard, but it seems to be a plaster wall, also with leaded paint on it.

Our goal here is a flat paintable surface, and (much more importantly) not lead-poisoning our children.

Options we are considering:

1) Hire lead-abatement professionals to strip everything down to the plaster, and then see what we need to do from there. We can't really afford this.

2) Try to pry off the wallboard so we can see more fully the condition of the wall behind it. This is tempting because it removes more cruft from the wall, but it has some downsides: It will certainly result in additional flaking of the lead paint on the wallboard, as the pieces of wallboard separate. Depending how the wallboard is attached, it may be quite difficult to pry off and result in pieces of wallboard still stuck to the wall, which may be quite hard to get off without disturbing even more lead paint. And lastly, we don't know why someone put up the wallboard in the first place, which leaves us concerned about the condition of the wall we might find underneath it. (A third of this wall was an extension on the house at around the same time the wallboard was probably put up, so for the last eight feet we aren't even sure there will be anything at all behind it.)

3) Hang a fresh layer of 1/4in drywall over top of everything.

4) Cover the wall as-is with a layer of Zinsser Gardz to seal everything in and prevent reactivating any wallpaper glue, then skim-coat with thin layers of joint compound (using a roller brush and squeegee trowel), prime, and paint. ("As-is" means mostly covered with the old wallpaper, which is in quite good condition, not peeling or bubbling at all and firmly stuck - also its tough wallpaper with some kind of fabric weave in it. It also has a bit of glue residue on top of it from the wallpaper we already removed.)

Currently we are leaning towards option 4. Is this a crazy idea? What would you do?


texts: What should I consider when converting a double-basin sink to a single-basin?

texts:
I'm not a handyman. But I want to save money.
I've never worked with any plumbing (or electrical work (or pretty much any other diy work other than in the yard)).

We're remodeling our kitchen a little. We've placed an order for new counter-tops, but Lowe's has said that we have to handle the sink installation ourselves (or hire an outside contractor I guess). I'd like to do it myself, but this seems like a large project for a first-timer.

The current setup is a drop-in, double-basin sink with a disposal. We would like to install a single-basin, undermount sink, and convert the plumbing/disposal to accommodate this.

Could someone tell me what to expect here? First thing, I'm not sure how I'm supposed to handle installation if I can't install an undermount until they arrive with the counters to begin with. Beyond that though, how hard of a plumbing project is this?

Thanks for any tips.


texts:
I changed the brake pads on my motorcycle today and I read in the manual that you have to be careful when cleaning them with compressed air because asbestos fibers might get into your lungs and cause permanent and severe damage.

While I was googling I've also found that drywall removal is dangerous for the same reason. And it just hit me; last year I removed 5 drywall walls (gypsum wallpapers) in my home using a sledge-hammer and electric saws. I think I used something on my face because inhaling it was unbearable. I did it for 2 days. I was stupid for not wearing a mask. The drywall is gypsum based and was installed there post 2008. Does it contain the deadly asbestos? I live in Eastern Europe in the EU.

Will I die of cancer in 10 years?


texts: How to move from RH/RC thermostat to C thermostat in AC only system?

texts:
I see this is a pretty common question, but the answer seems like it might be dependent on your thermostat and air handler, so I'm posting with my specific questions.

I'm upgrading from a White Rodgers thermostat to Honeywell RTH9580WF. The Honeywell requires a C wire.
My old White Rodgers thermostat does not have a C connector. It has a wire from the air handler switchboard to the thermostats RC and is has a jumper to RH.

(air handler) - (Thermostat)
W - W
Y - Y
G - G
R - RC jumper to RH

I can see on the air handler that there is a COM 24v which I believe is C (COM = Common = C, right?)

There is a second 18/4 wire hooked into the air handler (C & Y). I'm not positive where that line runs, but it looks to follow the coolant line, so maybe to the condenser outside?

We only use this system for AC. I don't know if that impacts my situation at all, but I see lots of discussion on how things relate to heat, so I wanted to point it out.

I was reading about the various wire's uses in this thread.

It says RC/RH are for Cooling and Heating calls, but common is seperate, so does that mean I cannot just move the red wire from RC in the old thermostat to the new thermostat's C? (I assume no, since it travels to the R in the air handler , and not the C).

It seems like my only recourse right now is to either run new wires, or to move one of the existing 4 to the C.
I saw in other threads, and this honeywell video they moved the Green wire from G to C which takes away the manual fan option, which I think would be ok provided the fan still can be called when AC kicks on.

Am I understanding things correctly? If not, please correct me.
Does moving G to C make sense in an AC only system?
Would it make more sense to just run new wires?
Do I need to do anything with the extra 18/4 that's hooked up to the air handler as it is?

(Also, I keep referring to it as the air handler because that's how I keep reading about it. If it's called something else when it's used for AC only, let me know so I can speak to it correctly.)


texts: Installed Honeywell T5 Thermostat Now No Heat or AC

texts:
I installed a new Honeywell T5 Smart Thermostat. All wiring appears to be correct, but I did blow the 5amp fuse in the handler while hooking it up. Replaced fuse, but still not able to get the AC or heat to run. The fan will run when set to on. I tried hooking the old thermostat back up and it is no longer turning the ac or heat on either. This leads me to believe that something else went wrong during the installation process.
My system is all Trane
Air handler: 2TEC3F30B1000AA (BAYHTR1410)
Compressor: 2TWB3030A1000AA


texts: How to deal with Square Drive vs. Robertson Screws?

texts:
Although the terms "square drive" and "Robertson" are often treated as the same in catalogs, the difference (as I understand it) is that Robertson tools and screws have a slight taper to the square recess and the square drive ones do not. Most online sources claim that the tapered design is superior. Some online sources complain bitterly that this slight difference can lead to damaged tools and stripped screws when the two types are mixed up or misidentified by sellers.

(In background, let me add that I am located in the US and am interested in trying them out. Robertson screws are very popular and available in Canada, where they originated, but in the US I can only get them via mail order.)

I assume that if I buy Robertson(R) branded screws and Robertson(R) branded screwdrivers or bits, then I can be guaranteed compatibility. My question is, "Is there any other way I can tell that I will have compatible Robertson tools and screws other than by physically examining them?"

I hope to get answers from people with actual experience buying and using Robertson wood screws and tools.

I have seen photos of some drive bits stamped, for example "SQ2" and others stamped "R2," but I am unclear whether or not the "R"  designation is really a reliable indicator of a Robertson taper.

I am also unclear as to whether I am overthinking this, and that maybe the alleged incompatibility between square drive and Robertson is overexagerated in the blog posts I have read.


texts: One of the answers for another question of mine recommended using a finishing bit in my router to leave about 1/16" protrusion remaining to be sanded. When I search for "finishing bit" though I can't seem to find anything labeled like that for sale. Is there another term I could look for, or does "finishing bit" just refer to a particular configuration of another bit?


texts: No water in bathroom after well pump replacment

texts:
After replacing  the well pump, one bathroom has no water.
The house Has water with good pressure  except one bathroom, no water in the shower or the sink, but the toilet in that bathroom does have water.


texts: Why do I have multiple voltages, power spikes, and other issues with my electric service?

texts: I'm in an old house that has been mostly rewired in the last 15 years. I am in the USA so the power should be 110V, 220V but that is not the case. All day and night the power surges from 110V to 140V for about 6 seconds then back down again. If i unplug the 3 prong outlet from the 110V stove the power in the kitchen drops to 75V and the rest of the house goes to 170V. I tested the power coming up to the apartment and it  checked out perfect. When I tested the main lines coming into the breaker panel and one side is 110V and one is 140V. I pulled the main breaker and checked them again and there is no voltage at all coming into the box when the fuse is pulled. Everything I know from dealing with electric service says none of this should even work. Also I noticed a gas leak a couple weeks ago. The copper gas line was up against an old gas line and had arched a hole right through the copper. Not sure if that helps but any ideas at this point are welcome.


texts: When to retire aged copper extension cords with intact jackets?

texts: If not abused, do the conductors in extension cords degrade over time? If so, how does one determine when they need to be retired?


texts: I'm planning to build a sunken bath/wet room type shower. The plan is to raise the floor of the bathroom by 18" and then build a bath with its bottom just above the original floor level (to allow for drainage). What is the best way to build, waterproof and tile this custom tub. It will be box shaped with no curves. Basically like a sunken wetroom shower.


texts: I recently purchased LED candelabras to replace my incandescent bulbs in my fan. When I installed just one bulb everything worked perfect (fully dimmable/full power). I didn't like the color temperature difference between the old and new so I replaced the second bulb with another LED. Now neither bulb turns on. If I replace either LED with an incandescent, everything works again. What's going on that I can't have LEDs in each socket?


texts: Can I change a 1-gang electrical box to a 2-gang electrical box?

texts:
I live in a house built in the 50's in Maryland, US.  Each bedroom contains 4 electrical outlets - configured in two 1-gang electrical boxes on opposing walls.  However, with all the modern appliances, we really need more electrical outlets available in these bedrooms.

At this time, I don't want to open up the walls to install additional 1-gang boxes per modern building codes, but I know I'll have to at some point.

It's a 20A circuit. Can I just change out the current 1-gang electrical boxes for 2-gang electrical boxes?


texts: Can you have different types of vents on a single roof?

texts: The attic of my house has serious ventilation issue and the sheathing becomes rotten.  The roofing contractor suggests me to replace the rotten sheathing and install some ridge vent. His plan will also keep two old vents on the ridge.  I once heard that the co-existence of different types of vents will cause the air flow formed among these different vents instead of a smooth flow from soft vents to ridge vents. Is that correct? How to insure the ventilation plan proposed by contractor is correct?


texts: Is the U bend in my A/C condensation drain needed?

texts:
Is the U-bend (in 1st picture) necessary?
I'm guessing it's preventing backflow of gas from the drain.

My  A/C (heatpump) is leaking condensation.

BACKGROUND

TESTING:

Disconnected the drain pipe below the "u" and drained into a bucket. NO LEAKING in drain pan for the 36 hours of testing. Bone dry.
Reconnected.  Moved the terminating end from the floor drain to a small pan. It filled 1 pint in about an hour.
With everything hooked up properly, it's probably a pint in 8 hours.  When I originally discovered it (b/c it was overflowing to the floor) it was full. So probably 3 gallons or so.

Drip Pan
This is where water is collecting.
(Yes, that's newspaper in there, attempting to get it dry before one of the tests)


texts: Whats the best way to secure a loose flooring joist where mortar has crumbled over the decades?

texts:
My kitchen floor sits on joints that are mostly OK. One wobbles though as I walk over it near a wall. It moves 0.5cm (0.25"). I lifted a floor board and had a look. You can see the crumbled mortar here:

Question: Do I replace the mortar after jacking up the joist a little?  Or do I get a hardwood wedge and tap it in - as the joist goes out the other side and supports a narrow hallway?

The house was built in 1973 in the UK, if that's important. Lastly, it is my poor photography that makes the joists look non-vertical, not poor construction.

Here's the adjacent one that is fine for now:

The sub floor area is a crawl space - but only just - not for anyone with a belly. The black is a bitcuhmen seal over the earth underneath.


texts:
The second floor of our house has a fairly low ceiling, perhaps 6'8" or 6'10".
The width of the structure is only about 16' with standard construction and the ceiling joists running parallel to to the gable walls.

I am planning to remodel the bathroom upstairs (complete gut job) and this gives me the opportunity to access the joists in this section of the structure. I would like to move the joists up 12" to create better head room (I'm 6'3" so the shower in the short ceiling bothers me).

I am thinking that if I move the joists one at a time by cutting them loose from the top plate and the roof rafters and then shortening them the appropriate length, they will move up nicely without affecting the structure at all.

There are no trusses, this is all an old stick-framed, farm house. I would even be willing to gusset the portion of the roof rafter that spans between the ceiling joist and the top plate if needed.  The walls are balloon framed, but I don't think that makes a difference.

Edit:

Hmmm....I went up to get a picture, and I realized that there is no ridge board! The vertical piece exists between each ceiling joist and roof rafter pair. This makes me a little more hesitant.

Click for a larger view...


texts: We have a new shower rose installed. When starting a shower we have to turn it onto full hot (we have a mixer), then move it slightly towards cold to get it about right. 1mm left or right it is too hot or cold. Because it is at the hot end, the water pressure is not great. Our water tank is in the ceiling and the shower is 2 floors down.


texts: Connecting 120/240 receptacles on the same circuit breaker

texts:
I want to add a branch circuit to the control panel using 12/3 wire and protected by 20 amp double pole circuit breaker. Is it safe to connect multiple duplex receptacles 120 volts and 240 volts on the same circuit? In this setup, I'd use black, red, and ground for the duplex 240 volts 20 amp receptacle and I'd use black, white and ground for the other 110 volts 20 amp duplex receptacle.

I live in Ontario, Canada.


texts: R and G wire jumpered and G is not connected to thermostat

texts: I have a Trane XV90 furnace and XL14i AC. The thermostat is old and I want to install a Honeywell Wifi one. Today I just checked the wires and found on the control board R and G are jumpered and the G is not actually connected to the thermostat. So my question is when I install the new thermostat, should I keep the G wire as is or rewire and connect it? Thanks.


texts:
I'm currently undertaking a project to build remote controlled shades from scratch. I currently have every piece figured out except I don't know know much about the motors involved in something like this. I am looking for suggestions on what type of motor to search for. I imagine I need a type that can go forward and back as well as stop when the shade is fully retracted. I don't know what to search for though.

Any help is much appreciated.


texts: How to lift/raise/repair a segment of concrete slab?

texts:
I have an 8-year old concrete slab around my pool. One slab has sunk by about 2 inches on the short side. The slab measures about 6 feet by 3 feet by 4 inches. It rests against the pool structure on the long side. The opposite long side is grass. The two short sides are separated by a 1 inch wood separator from other slabs.  There is a thin "cool deck" covering of on the slab.

My question:  what is the best choice of action for me to repair this?

Can I raise it to fill underneath it with sand? How? How do I prevent the slab from cracking?

Should I pour concrete on it? It will be tapering from 2 inches to 0 and probably won't stick. Also the cool deck cover gets covered by concrete.


texts: Is heavier weight carpet padding a waste of money?

texts:
I'm looking to replace the carpet in a living room that was left in a state of considerable filthiness by the previous owners of the house.

I went to a local carpet dealer who also does installation and when I we were discussing what I'd like to buy he told me the carpet price included installation and a 6 lb urethane foam. I told him I'd like a softer, heavier frothed foam pad. He told me I could do that, but I'd be wasting money.

Is he telling the truth? Do heavier weight carpet pads not make the carpet any softer?

If I'm looking for the plushest carpet, what plays a role in achieving this?


texts: I actually have 3 phase in my home. Notes you said it was not possible. Not sure why, but it is here. Why would anyone ever want it?


texts: How can I reclaim heat from an enclosed furnace room?

texts:
Our home has two furnaces (oil fired hot air) and an electric water heater in an enclosed room (approx 6'6" x 9').  Three walls of the room divide it from the remainder of a finished basement, the fourth is an outside wall that includes a vent for combustion air intake.

In cold weather, especially when both furnaces run frequently, the room becomes quite warm -- into the 90s (F) at times.   I'd like to be able to divert some of this heat into the house without leaving the door open (which is quite effective, but inconvenient, as it opens into a spot that we often walk through).   I've already sealed as many air leaks in the ductwork as I can find (a total of four zones are served by the two furnaces, so there is a lot of sheet metal in there), I think a lot of remaining heat is being radiated from the furnaces themselves and the flue pipes (they are single-walled until they exit the room).

I'm thinking of putting  a pair of vents -- one high, with a thermostatic fan to blow the warm air into the room, and a low one, to balance the airflow -- in the wall shared with the office.   Outside of heating season, the vents could be closed to prevent outside air (from the combustion air intake vents) from circulating into the office.

The only specific risk I can see would be the risk of CO being pulled into the room if there is a furnace failure.   We have working CO detectors in the house, and I suspect it would be circulated throughout the house anyway due to leaks in the return ducts (around the filters, for example), so I'm not sure if this adds risk or not.   I know that furnaces in many homes I've seen are not in enclosed rooms, so perhaps I'm overthinking this.


texts: Are blocking diodes necessary for solar panels

texts:
In a residential solar array, bypass diodes are used when panels are in series to prevent a shaded panel from effectively becoming a large resistor. Blocking diodes prevent current from going back into a panel (or series of panels) in parallel with a load or other panel series. From what I understand, these were used in the dark ages (pun intended) of solar energy when people dumped the electricity from the panel straight into a battery bank and didn't want the reverse happening at night.

Do installers typically install blocking diodes for PV panels in parallel, such as with a string inverter?

The inverter obviously doesn't rectify current so the panels can't draw power from the AC-side, but I am worried about, for example, if Panel 1 is at a slightly higher voltage than Panel 2 and some current produced in Panel 1 being sunk by Panel 2 as a result.

In this case, I am working with "identical" (same manufacturer and model, and likely manufactured around the same date in the same facility) panels.


texts: run water supply line to fridge from cold side of water heater

texts: Since the fridge and the sink are on opposite sides of the room, what's the possibility of connecting the water supply line from the fridge up into the attic and down to the cold side of the water heater?


texts: How do I fill a wide gap between tile and other flooring / sill plate?

texts:
I recently installed 16" porcelain tile in a new laundry room addition.  As luck would have it, the room ended up being the same width as 4 tiles, so I had to do very little cutting to complete the job.  Everything came out about 1/2" from the wall which I covered with baseboard.

The trade off with going with this layout is that there are 2 locations where I now have about a 1/2" gap that need to filled that won't be covered by baseboard.  One is where the floor meets an aluminum sill plate for a garage entry door, and the other is where it joins an existing bamboo floor.

On the bamboo side, I can cut a thin strip (~3/8") of some leftover flooring which will leave me small enough gap to caulk.  However, I haven't figured out what route to take where it meets the sill plate.  I'm looking for suggestions on how to bridge that gap.  It's going to be almost completely hidden by an overhang from the aluminum sweep attached to the door, so the cosmetics are somewhat secondary.  I'd like to do something that will hold up well to the invariable expansion and contraction of the aluminum sill plate.


texts: Ejector Pit & Sump Pit Combined - Whats a good backup option?

texts:
Here in Chicago we have a combined sewer and storm drain system - as a result it's not uncommon to have sump pits and ejector pits combined - which is the case in my basement. The ejector then handles the sump pumping, as well as removing the basement sewage.

My ejector services the basement bathrooms and shower as well as any rain seepage from the drain tiles, but since it's a combined system I am terrified of an overflow.

The good news is that if there is an overflow, its likely to be just my home's waste & the clear storm water, but that's still enough to ruin a basement.

My question is, what backup systems would you recommend for this type of setup? The ejector is currently mains powered (plugged in), so if I lose power, I essentially have no sump pump.

I'm considering a water powered backup sump pump, but am concerned about any potential sludge or remaining waste clogging a system that is not built for any solids/semi solids.

Any brilliant ideas?


texts: Honeywell RTH9585WF Thermostat wiring question

texts:
My old thermostat LUXPRO TX 9600tsa uses 4 wires:

W white
G green
R red hooked to RH and looped to RC and
Y yellow

This thing is not working right, so I purchased a Honeywell RTH9585WF WiFi thermostat.  The issue is I have is no C wire and on this new one there is no RH block so I hooked the R red to red but do I need to loop it to RC to get power?

I was also told I could relocate the G to C and go that route. just not sure what to do?   I am getting no power to it...


texts: I am looking at purchasing a hot tub that requires 230v/50amp and I was wondering if my panel could handle it? Any help is much appreciate, image below..


texts: Connect light with 3 wires to box with 6 wires

texts:
I'm trying to replace a couple pendant lights in my kitchen, I replaced the first one just fine but I'm not sure how to wire the second light. Both lights are controlled by one switch, and I've attached an image of the wires for the light I still need to connect. x

The light fixture has 1 white, 1 black and a ground. I'd appreciate help wiring this light, and also just understanding what is going on with this setup. I don't have a wire tester at the moment, but as soon as it isn't so icy I'm going to go get one.

Edit: the small piece of wire fell out when I was taking the light off, I think it was connecting a couple of these other wires.


texts: Where do I place drywall screws when fixing nail pops?

texts: I have a few nail pops I would like to fix and want to be sure I am putting the screws in the right place.  The nail pops are along the edge of the ceiling where it meets the angled portion of a ceiling that connects to a dormer (see pictuere).  The pops are about 15-16" apart.  Do the screws go on either side of the nail head (1 - 2 inches away) along the line where the two drywall pieces meet, or perpendicular to that?  Basically, do the screws go along the red line in the picture, or along the black line?


texts: Proper method to seal a heated crawl space

texts:
I have a heated crawlspace with a dirt floor. There are no vents, it is fully connected to the house, and currently has a pool liner and vapour barrier stretched over it, but it is not sealed. There are large gaps in the liner, in fact. The past owners simply lived with this.

I would like to seal it to prevent the moisture (and gases, etc) from entering the home. I live in a cold climate, and I am concerned if I put a vapor barrier liner (6mm) down with no insulation, that I may get condensation on top of it, due to warm air inside hitting the cold VBL/cold ground. It doesn't get too cold, but I did see frost last winter on the soil, so there is moisture there.

I was hoping to pay for a concrete slab, but have read that a 900sq ft 4" thick slab would hold ~400 gallons of water, and that water is now under your house, causing more issues (eg concrete isn't good for a retrofit).

I would like to avoid having to buy 4" closed cell foam, for below the vbl. Although ideal, I feel you couldn't walk on this at all without breaking their seals, and it is expensive.

What's the right way to do this? And then, can I get away with just the vbl, or am I going to have real problems? I do have a crawl space sump, it is inside a tub and the bottom is bone dry. The walls of the tub are fairly high however, higher than the grade of the soil.


texts: One hand in the sink and one hand on the stove, I feel a tingle. How dangerous and how to fix? (Not my home)

texts:
I was staying with a friend recently and after cooking dinner I was washing up. I had water running in the sink, and one hand in the water rinsing a glass. With my other hand I reached to grab a copper skillet from the electric stove top, to wash it, and I felt a mild tingle across my hands.

Knowing just a little about ac wiring, I was immediately worried and glad my heart was still beating.

My friend wasn't too worried and in fact duplicated my actions just to feel it himself.

I've noticed a couple outlets and pieces of equipment grounded to pipes in the basement.  To remedy the situation he bought a couple brackets and a chunky wire and grounded the plumbing to a copper grounding rod in the ground outside the house.

What caused my electrical sensation?
Is the house safe now or a potential death trap at every water fixture?


texts:
My light (LED) burned out, I think and when I replaced it  the light would not work.  Then, when I put in a regular light, it would go on for a second or more and
then flash three times and go out again.  Very frustrating
because I really want the light to work!


texts: Half burnt out LED tube lights in LED-mirror panel

texts:
Recently I moved into a new flat in the dorm and faced a problem with LED-mirror-panel in the bathroom and asked the landlord to fix the problem. Despite the responsible maintenance electric company came and took out the panel and fixed the problem and installed it on 03.02.2021, after 24hrs again, I faced the same problem. The LED set in a border of mirror panel hasn't worked fully. As you can see, just the left side is working:

Other electrical information can help to resolve the problem is the following:
The bathroom lighting has one Ceiling-bulb, and LED-mirror-panel on the wall. Both can switch on/off via double-switch as you can see in the picture.

I already checked this and could be power supply problem in LED-mirror-panel, and this answer. This answer that addressed to LED characteristics encouraged me to be patient to see the right side of the LED-mirror-panel could work one day.
Any help reflecting issue to the landlord or the responsible maintenance electric company will be highly appreciated.
Update: I realized that my next-door neighbour has also the same problem. Could be a faulty phase problem?


texts: Recessed LED lights need to be turned on twice to work

texts:
I recently installed recessed LED lights in by basement.  On two of the three runs I have an issue that when I first turn on the lights some of the lights only produce a low dim, and don't react the the dimmer switch's level. However, if I turn the lights back off and then on again everything works perfectly.  This happens every time I use the lights.

Also when I first turn the lights off the lights give a quick burst of light before they turn off. However, this only happens when there is a light didn't isn't working properly, it doesn't do it after I turn them back on and all the lights work correctly.

I have switched out the dimmer switch to one that is compatible when the LED lights, but that didn't fix the problem.

The lights are Commercial Electric Easy-up canless LED recessed lights Model #CER407943k50wh.  The dimmer switch is Lutron Diva C.L. Model # dvcl-153p.  I have switched out the dimmer switch and that hasn't worked.  I've put in an non-dimmer switch and this fixed the problem, but I would like to have these lights be able to be dimmed.


texts:
I had an issue with my bathroom flooding, so I emptied out the toilet (turned off the valve and flushed until it was empty).

Then after 2-3 days, the toilet backed up. Yech.

Anyway, I re-opened the valve, flushed, and cleaned the toilet, and I put newspaper underneath. I noticed now two leaks:

A widening wet spreading underneath the supply line for the toilet valve
A tiny drop-sized wet under the back of the toilet

My question is about the leaking pipe with the shut-off valve; how can or should I fix this? Should I call a professional, or is this DIY material?

Edit: There's a giant nut with two fins where the supply line connects to the toilet. It's wet. Very suspicious.


texts: How to account for wood expansion when installing moulding?

texts:
I plan on installing some board and batten frame moulding in my foyer.  Basically, 1x4 and 1x6 pine boards in the shape of squares nailed/glued to the wall.  My question though is how do I account for wood expansion.  I know that wood will swell in the summer humidity and shrink in the winter humidity.  All of the websites talk about accounting for this shrinkage as it could be up to 1/8" for the 1/6's.   But they don't say how to account for this.  How do I account for the shrinkage so that come winter time all of my moulding isn't full of gaps.

I've done some frame moulding in the past and it looks like the day I installed it, but I think I did it in the winter.  Apparently it only tightened up and there's been no problems.


texts: Older steam heating with integrated hot water

texts: ...Generates steam when heating water for shower & washer operation. Enough steam is produced to cause radiators throughout the home to heat up, which is clearly wasteful. We are new to this type of system and while it seems plausibly normal that an older system might lack controls to prevent this, wanted to ask: Is there anything we can do to better isolate both systems so that heat is not lost to steam when producing hot water?


texts: Need helping finding a limit switch for motorized raise/lower led light bar

texts:
I have a rotary bar that raises and lowers lights about 45 degrees in each direction. Right now I have a timed relay that stops the bar, unfortunately, the time can easily be thrown out of sync. I have tried numerous "industrial" limit switches with the arms and they just do not have enough precision. I am hoping someone can help.
Here is a video clip of the bar in motion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFoRufvPPC8
The bar uses a vehicle window motor and a simple DC circuit. I did not want to get involved with steppers. If someone has some limit switch experience, please share. The hardest problem I am finding is being a rotary bar, at no point is there a way to "push" on a limit switch.


texts: Fix 40 kg TV to plasterboard and OSB wall

texts:
I need to fix a 65 inch TV to a wall that is made of plasterboard on 18 mm OSB. These are fixed on with metal stud/rails at 600 mm intervals.
My worry is the OSB isn't thick enough to hold the TV on its own, and the metal studs offer nothing to fix into of any great note. Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: LED lights in series - only 2 out of 5 light

texts:
I have just fit 5 MR16 LED lights in my bathroom as well as an LED driver. The lights are 4.5W and the driver supports 24W which is just enough (4.5 x 5 = 22.5)

When I turn them on, only 2 lights come on. Thought it was the bulbs so changed 3 with new ones. Now none turn on. I therefore took one out and now 2 turn on again. I'm thinking it's the driver not supplying enough power. Is this the right assumption?


texts: What could cause moisture on my bonus room floor?

texts:
Last week during a cold snap with high winds. I discovered moisture along the floor on one side of my bonus room, above the attached garage. Their was enough moisture that the baseboard molding buckled and pulled away from the wall. This occurred on the western facing wall. All other walls / floors were fine with no visible moisture.

I opened up the attic hatch to this area and saw plenty of insulation. Bats in the wall and blown in for the floor area.

I can't figure out what would be causing this, as the house is 2 months old.

Any ideas?


texts: New construction, who is responsible for water drainage?

texts: We moved into our new construction and opted to do the landscaping at a later time. I have already put downspouts and extensions to get the water 20 ft away from the house. However, the way the land lays, water ponds up around our basement pretty bad. Is this a contractor issue or would it have been landscaping?


texts: What's this wiring contraption in my closet?

texts:
I recently moved into an old apartment and found this contraption in a closet, with wiring going in different directions around the door frame. Some of the wires are cut in places mid-wall and have been painted over into the wall. Right adjacent to it, by the closet door, is the equally ancient buzzer I use to let people into the building. Both the audio AND video feedback don't work -- I just press the unlabeled button for entry; it has no telephone capability.

My concern with the wiring is that occasionally my buzzer will go off for a split second even though my door isn't being rung (when it IS my door, the screen turns on too, so I'd know). The screws on the contraption are labeled "RGBY," which a quick Google suggests landline telephone wiring -- except! -- there is no phone jack in my apartment.

So: Is this just a remnant of previous landline wiring? Can it be causing the false buzzing? What's that hole in the center? Just, what is it overall?


texts: Is there an interior bathroom filter made to exhaust filtered air back into room?

texts: I have a bathroom in the basement that has an exhaust fan but it doesn't go anywhere.  I need a filter on it to clear/clean the air and moister.


texts: What are the fitting options including using a preformed kit etc?


texts: Waterproofing outdoor wire splices and receptacles

texts:
It seems that the NEC requires wire splices to be UL486D listed when used in outdoor (generally damp or wet) locations, similar to the requirement for THWN or other wet-rated wiring.

Why are special wire nuts required when receptacles, like a duplex NEMA 5-20R, have exposed terminal screws? It seems that if the junction box were flooded, there would still be a short from the receptacle terminals.


texts: What could be causing our air conditioner circuit breaker to keep tripping?

texts: Our air conditioner circuit breaker marked "AC", is tripping frequently after the AC unit works for a while. Sometimes as long as an hour or more and, sometimes as short as few minutes. We were told the AC motor needs to be changed, but we decided to change the whole unit, since it has been 14 years since we bought the house. But the same problem persisted with the new system. The people who have installed the new AC, have been checking to make sure there are no blockages in the refrigerant lines. still, the problem has not gone away. What are the possible causes, remedies, and safety precautions I should consider in this situation?


texts: Can I put a LED tube in a high frequency ballast fixture without removing the ballast?

texts:
To replace my old fluorescent tube lamp I bought a LED tube. The old fixture was one with an electrical ballast and without an additional starter as shown below.

I read that I was supposed to bypass the ballast completely, as LED tubes don't need them any more. Regardless, I wanted to test whether the tube would work without removing the ballast first and put it in, but nothing happened when I turned it on. Later I tried the tube again in a different fixture with a LED starter and to my surprise it didn't turn on in that fixture either, while it had turned on just fine earlier. Did I break the LED tube by not removing the ballast first or was it impossible to begin with?


texts: Replacing 60-year old light switch - which wires go where?

texts:
A light switch in my house won't go to the off position, so I need to replace it.  Every direction I've read about how to do this says to keep the wires in the same configuration (top, bottom, ground), but the old switch is strange, and I don't see anything about this configuration.

I have attached some photos.  There are three wires attaching to two spots on the switch.  On the left side, two black wires are both attached to the same point, and on the right side, one red wire is attached.

Any thoughts on which wire should go where would be appreciated.

If more information about where the wires are each coming from would be helpful, please let me know, and I would be happy to give more detail.

Thanks!

Robert


texts: Replacing bulbs in Harbor Breeze ceilng fan with remote

texts: I'd like to use the brighter better energy LED bulbs but when I put them in - they blinked continuously. I think this MAY be because the fan is on a remote control.This blinking seemed dangerous so I removed the bulbs. I desperately want MORE light from that fixture. The limit is 40W. Suggestions?


texts:
We have a ranch with a wood fireplace in the living room. It's fantastic at heating the main living area, but the bedrooms down the hall get left in the cold.

I'm going to install insulated flexible ductwork in the attic, with a blower near the inlet (red), with outlets in each room. The initial duct will be 10", with 6" to each room.

This is roughly to scale, about 24' between the inlet and 2 aligned outlets. Fireplace is to the left:

I can either run 10" to a 3-way manifold, and take 6" runs from there. Or I can run 10" to an 8"/6" splitter, take one 6" off there, then run the 8" to a 2-way 6" splitter, and take the remaining 6" off there. The first is preferable, as I'll get more efficient use of the duct, which comes in 25' sections.

Will I see a noticeable difference in airflow one way or the other? If it matters, the lower-right bedroom is the master, and it's fine if airflow is a little less there (other 2 are kids' rooms, which we want a bit warmer).


texts: Best Light for Reading, Computer Office: Flat Panel or Dome/Global Light

texts:
We are thinking of installing new ceiling lights, in Standard 10 feet ceiling. We originally have 4 inch diameter light in the hallway. My son would keep the door open to prevent getting hot, however this hallway light was hitting the side, peripheral of his eye, very small and lot of light would radiate from a small point, and it would hurt eyes.
I was looking into two other options.
a) A Larger Diameter commercial light (11 inches)

b) Or a Dome Global Light:
we will get 11 inch version, it has around 3 inch height

Just curious, whats good for lighting ergonomics,  a Flat led light or a Globe/Dome light? I know they have flat ceiling lights in offices, however a Global Light may have more surface area, and may radiate better. Maybe someone who's installed lighting in homes/offices would know.

Note: My ceiling does not have height thickness to put a recessed light in a recessed fixture.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-11-in-12-5W-Dimmable-White-Integrated-LED-Edge-Lit-Round-Flat-Panel-Flush-Mount-Ceiling-Light-with-Color-Changing-CCT-74210-HD/301757622
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-9-in-2-Light-White-Mushroom-Flush-Mount-RS1951204/310507070


texts: Trouble drilling into outside facing wall above window to hang curtain rod

texts:
I have an outside facing wall on the second story of my home. I'm trying to drill above a window to put a support for a curtain rod.

I can easily drill about 1/5 of an inch but then the drill just spins. From the picture I took it looks like wood. I imagine this is OSB or plywood. I am using a 1/4 inch carbide tipped masonry drill bit.

Any ideas on how I should either set this curtain rod or drill 1/10 of an inch further so that I can place the anchor? If I don't need an anchor how should I be thinking about using shorter screws to support the weight of likely heavy curtains?


texts: I am hoping someone can help me.  I have a 3 way switch for lights on my stairs and a 3 way switch for lights in the hallway.  The way they are currently wired is there is a 2 gang box at bottom of the stairs, power into that box. There are currently 2 3 way switches in that box, one for the stairs, one for the hall.  The at each end, the box then runs to the lights.  My question; is there any way to put a 4 way switch in the 2 gang box and run all the lights on the same switch, so they all come on and off together?


texts: How do I extract a snapped off PVC nipple?

texts: I have a 3/4" PVC sprinkler system, and one of the nipples has snapped off inside the 1/2" threaded fitting. I have a nipple extractor which has worked very well in the past but I guess this time I didn't press hard enough at the beginning as all it does is shave the inside of the nipple. How do I get this thing out without pulling the whole pipe up and replacing the fitting?


texts: What to do with an apartment with only 2-pronged outlets

texts:
I just rented an apartment (Colorado, for what it's worth RE code) that has 2-pronged outlets throughout the place except for two GFCI's, one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen.

I bought the $.30 2->3 adapter and screwed that extension piece of metal into the faceplate, and then used a cheap 'tester' to see how the outlet was wired (it has 3 lights, and they come up in combinations to indicate no ground, no hot, no neutral, etc). Each outlet I tested was 'no ground', so the boxes themselves aren't actually grounded.

I asked the landlord about this and they said 'we asked at Home Depot, and they said it's no big deal, just use a surge protector'. I don't know much about wiring/circuits etc, but this seems like shady advice given the landlord's interest to not rewire. I am a professional programmer owning a good amount of expensive hardware that 'asks' for 3-prong outlets to be used when plugging it in.

My question: What are the potential hazards (to myself and my equipment) of using a 'falsely' grounded 3-prong plug with my equipment? Is this something I should press the landlord on for code issues? (It may have been grandfathered in, the building is old but was recently redone).

Thanks for any input and advice.