texts:
I need to make a water tight joint between the garage wall and the pavement:

I have cleaned out the debris from the gap and blasted it with water to remove all the loose little things.

Now, I have bought a sealant and want to apply it.

The problem that I'm seeing is that the floor of the gap is not even. Sometimes it's like 1.5 inches deep (where there were plants that I pulled out) and sometimes it's 1/2 inch deep:

How do I make it more even? Do I use a backer rod? If so, do I lay a continuous backer rod everywhere or only in the places where the gap is deep and leave the naked soil where it's shallow?

Can I apply the sealant on the soil directly (where it's shallow)?

Thanks kindly for you help.
Jenia


texts:
When running NM cable, you're supposed to not make any bends sharper than 5 times the cable radius.*

When dressing wires to go into a box, though, you often curve them any which way or shape them into an accordion to leave a workable length while fitting them behind the device fixed to the front of the box.

Why be concerned about how sharply the wires are bent in one case but not the other?

(Regardless of the answer, Code demands conformance. This is purely curiosity.)

* Or something like that - I just remember the rule that for 14 or 12 gauge you want to go no sharper than the bend in a soda can. When I run thicker cable, I'll look up the details then.


texts: Help mounting trimmed hollow bifold doors

texts:
I recently bought an older house with 4 closets that have the bi-folding hollow closet doors like those from Jeld-Wen.  Upon inspection 2 sets of doors had to be thrown away as the mounting hardware holes were broken.
A few weeks later, I discovered that two of the closets were not 80 inches tall, which would require the doors to be trimmed in order to be installed correctly.  I lost track of which doors went to which closet.  However, it seems like a pretty good guess that the thrown away doors were the ones that were trimmed making the places where the mounting hardware mounts smaller and more subject to breaking.
What is a way to mitigate this?  I don't really want to modify the house so much to raise the closet door jamb, and I would prefer not having to install new ones each year.  Any ideas?
More details:
One closet is 79.25" the other 79".  This will require at least a .5" and a .75" trim.  It could be a .75" and 1" trim.


texts: Flashing and/or sealing for vent through built-up roof (BUR)?

texts:
I'm reconfiguring plumbing and need to poke a new vent through the roof of my Chicago two-flat.  It's a built-up roof of tar, felt, etc., with a slight grade.  How to finish the roof portion so that there are no leaks?

The vent will be of PVC and will connect to a kitchen DWV system.  I see many rubber collars available at the hardware store most expressly prohibit use with built-up roofs.

I intend to upgrade the roof but I'd like to be able to wash my hands first.  Is this the kind of repair only a roofer can do?


texts: How do I know when my water heater should be replaced?

texts:
The condo I just moved into has an original 2001 gas water heater that is missing a few features one would like to see in 2015, such as inspectable anodes. The home inspector pointed this out as a potential problem but only due to the heater's age; not due to any kind of malfunction.

Is this the kind of job where one should wait until the heater starts to malfunction? Is there a recommended replacement schedule one should use? Are newer models efficient enough that it makes sense to replace it anyway?


texts: Temperature control when I can't affect either airflow or thermostat

texts:
Our apartment is heated by a natural gas burner (the burner itself is inside the unit) that vents in two directions: one vent into the bedroom and a second (about 3x the area) into the rest of the unit. The bedroom vent can be partially closed but the other set of vents can't.

Question 1: It drives me nuts that if we want to keep the bedroom tolerably warm at night, we have to heat up the rest of the apartment too. Is there any safe, reasonable way to block off some of the vents? The gas is burned right in the apartment, so I'm concerned that partially blocking them off might encourage carbon monoxide production.

Question 2: I'd love to install a programmable thermostat, but the wiring is so archaic that standard models don't seem to be compatible (and the landlord really doesn't want us to mess with it). Does anyone have experience with those "thermostat setback" devices that sit underneath the thermostat and warm it up, tricking it into producing less heat while the device is on? Is there a model you'd recommend?


texts: Air conditioner HVAC filter size and frequency of change

texts:
I've been struggling to understand air filter sizes and the frequency of changing them out.
We have a Rheem 4 ton AC unit.
Below is the filter (20x25x4) we currently have in our attic and some info from our warranty registration.

How frequently is it recommended to change this filter? These are fairly expensive (compared to a different place where I only used 1in depth filters) and some say to change every 3 months which adds up. I suppose it depends on several factors, but we live in Texas and it's just 2 people, no pets.

It seems like I should just check it visually to see if it's ready to change - I can see this lasting easily over a year. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Model Serial Registration Date Install Date

RA1648AJ1NA 16 SEER CUBE A/C - W221838882 8/9/2018 8/8/2018
R801TA075421MSA 80+ UPF GAS FURNACE RHEE - W221845259 8/9/2018 8/8/201


texts:
I'm buying a house which has a stopcock which will not turn off. I physically can't turn the handle. I want to install a dishwasher there so it would be good to be able to turn the waters off.

Will it be safe to use some kind of lever to try and force it shut?


texts: What do I need to do to prepare to remove a textured (popcorn) walls?

texts:
Questions:

What are some things I should definitely know?
What will be behind my popcorn wall? (The original wall we put the popcorn over?)
Since masks are out of stock because of the Covid19 virus. What should I use for respiratory protection?
I know I must wet it to scrape it. Can I use a spray bottle?
Will the fact that my popcorn walls are painted affect removal?

The wall was put on probably 90s/80s/2000s
It’s been through 4 generations of teen girls, my mom asked for it because a guy my grandpa knew was able to put them on. Popcorn walls are uncommon but they unfortunately exist

It was put in 1998/1999 my mom said. They said they put it over just a regular wall.
Here's what the walls look like:


texts: I just bought a new 3-way lamp switch/socket to replace an old one that had burned out, along with 2 new 3-way bulbs.  I'm almost certain I installed it correctly (ribbed - neutral, smooth - hot) but its only lighting at the medium level. I tried both bulbs with the same result.  Is it a bad switch/socket or is there something else I should be trying?


texts: Do new integrated kitchen faucets come with threads for adapters?

texts:
I use a Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System with my current kitchen faucet to change out my fish tank water.

I'm thinking about getting a new faucet and kitchen sink, but the faucets I'm looking at doesn't look like there are any threads to attach the adapter to.

Here are a couple samples from amazon of the faucets that I'm looking at:

VCCUCINE  Single Lever Pull Out Sprayer
Delta 9178-AR-DST Leland Single Handle Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet with Magnetic Docking

I've tried looking at the delta site and various terms such as garden hose adapter, but nothing useful came up.


texts: Troubleshooting Maytag Neptune TL Washer

texts:
Appliance: Maytag Neptune TL Washer Model Number 62908580
Problem
So, this happened after the power cycled at my home, which means something's definitely blown in there.  However I cannot figure out what it is.

The system is stuck on Code 61 by default and a few others when the various buttons are pressed.

Code 61, nor the other codes that show up are listed in the Troubleshooting Guide.  Also not all the keys work even though the membrane seems to be sending the right signals
Diagnosis so far

Unplugging the appliance for several hours (days) does not reset it (no miracle internal fix, or a capacitance issue)

Replaced the Machine Control Board (which was my first thought) with a brand new one, however the outputs and the button control behavior has not changed

Unplugged all the controls from the MCB with the exception of the Line RF filter and the code still remains the same

Can anyone help?


texts: Is it likely that an alkyd varnish contains lead?

texts:
To be more precise, an alkyde varnish which is commercialized in Morocco : https://www.atlaspeintures.ma/RECHERCHES/FicheExport.php?Produit=47
Do you think there is a possibility that it contains a lead-based siccative ?


texts: "Reportable" electrical issues in commonwealth countries

texts:
I have a friend in New Zealand who said he hired an electrician to come and do some minor work and while at this he found an unused electrical installation that he said was "reportable" and had to be fixed. He then proceeded to spend the entire day fooling around with the installation and billed my friend $1000.

Is this how things work in commonwealth countries, electricians can basically force you to do work you don't want to do? What do they do if you refuse, come back with the police and break down your door?


texts: I need a wireless gadget that may not exist. Pic and description attached

texts:
Between the laundry in the basement, the kitchen (sink and dishwasher) and a full bath on the first floor, and a full bath on the 2nd floor, sometimes taking a shower can be interrupted with the cold/hot game that gets played when someone elsewhere in the house starts using the water also.  Instead of running up and down the stairs to warn others that a shower will commence, we need a signaling device that the water is or soon will be in use.
The house is old and big.   Upstairs and kitchen can not hear when the water is already being used.  A point of use heater is on the list for later.  We don't live with our phones attached to us so a group text would be useless.
I think this would be cheap to make.
This is what I need.  It will be wireless
The oval on the left is an on off button
The oval on the right is a light.
I think it can be the size of an outlet cover.
Like a wireless doorbell there will be a receiver but instead of ringing it will pass the signal to the 3 other locations.
When someone is preparing for a shower or loading the dishwasher, they can see if the hot water is available.  If it is, they press the switch and the light lights up on all the panels.  If they see one of the lights is already on, they can wait.
So what do I need to make this?


texts: Does anyone know what this rubber thing I found on the tub in my dishwasher is?

texts:
Last night I was emptying my KitchenAid KDFE104DSS5 dishwasher when I found this on the tub. I looked all over inside it trying to figure out where the heck it came from. It's about 3 inches long.
I have a 2½-year-old child so it's possible he found it somewhere and stuck it in the dishwasher but even so, I don't recognize it.


texts: Why is electric heat capacity calculated using floor area instead of space volume?

texts:
Doing some homework for a customer who wants to install electric baseboard heat. As I am trying to determine how many feet/watts I need. I ran across some guidelines that make sense, except they use the  "X" number of watts to square foot ratios.

Why wouldn't it be "X" number of watts to Cubic foot of space? Wouldn't that be more accurate??


texts: I have long ends of to cable coming out of baseboards in several rooms. Is it safe to cut off? Cable is no longer used in the house.


texts: How to connect old wiring to new light switch?

texts:
I'm trying to replace an old light switch.  Need help to understand 1) What type of new switch to use, and 2) How to connect with the old wiring.  There are only 2 thick black wires, connected on either side of the switch.  I'd appreciate any advice.  Thanks!

Photos of old light switch


texts: How to repair chipped tile edges on an external facing corner?

texts:
I've got these problems in an apartment that has been rented out.

No tile trim was ever used and it shows!

What's the best way of repairing this short of replacing all the tiles? Can I put some metal trim on this to hide the damage and prevent further damage?

I'm guessing that they bevelled the edges in order to meet flush like that.

PS: just bought this aluminium trim and will try it. Just stick with silicone and tape it down until it's cured

Edit: Result looking good.  Tape is just temporary!


texts:
I've got a radon fan installed in my basement, but no sump pump.  Starting a few days ago, I've started hearing a constant gurgling or bubbling sound from a basement wall that is 15 feet from where the radon fan is.

This has me worried we might have standing water under our foundation.  In trying to diagnose what's going on here, this is what I know at the moment:

The sound is definitely related to the radon fan.  When we turn off the radon fan, the sound stops
The sound can only be heard in the wall 15 feet from the radon fan.  Right next to the radon fan, the sound can't be heard
We've verified we don't have any leaking pipes inside or outside by watching the water meter
We haven't gotten much rain this past week, so I'm relatively certain it's not natural water running into the house

A few more pieces of information that might be useful:

The sound is a constant gurgling/bubbling sound.  It hasn't stopped at all in the past 5 days.  I don't remember hearing this sound before in the past couple of years.
The wall we are hearing this from is the same wall where our main water line from the meter is.
We have a sprinkler system outside with a pipe maybe 5 feet away from where we are hearing the sound.

Any ideas on why we might be hearing this sound?  Or how to diagnose?  Is it possible that we aren't hearing water, but something that sounds like it?

Thanks for any help!


texts: Honeywell Home Thermostat - wiring issues?

texts:
I have the Honeywell Home - 7-Day Programmable Thermostat. When my roommate installed the device it was winter and everything appeared to work fine. Now that it’s heating up, it’s impossible to cool the apartment down. My apartment complex says the AC unit outside isn’t even kicking on. I took a look at the wiring and this is what it looked like:

G wire > G terminal
W wire > W terminal
Y wire > C terminal
R wire > R terminal
Jumper > R to Rc
C wire > unattached

At this point the thermostat still powered on. Now I have reattached the wires as follows and the thermostat doesn’t even power on:

G wire > G terminal
W wire > W terminal
Y wire > Y terminal
C wire > C terminal
R wire > R terminal
Jumper > R to Rc

Any ideas as to 1) why it isn’t powering on and 2) alternative ways to wire the device?


texts: How can I tell if wood is properly dried?

texts: I guess measuring it's weight would be one of the answers, but it doesn't seem practical because wood of a same type can probably fluctuate  in it's density enough to make measurement unreliable in 10-20% moisture range. Are there any specific tips for wood like ash, beech or oak?


texts: My pool pump draws about 11 amps and we just converted the pool to salt which requires powering a chlorine generator. This draws an additional 7 amps for a total of 18. When both are powered on, the breaker is tripping since it is only a 15 amp breaker. The pool guy said swap it out for a 25 amp breaker. I thought, however, that the solution was not this simple depending on the gauge of the wire on the circuit.  Is there a way to figure out the wire gauge from looking at it? Should I just hire an electrician to check it out and determine if it needs a thicker gauge wire? Thanks


texts: How do I test the capacitor on a high velocity fan?

texts:
I have a high velocity fan that seems well-made but quit on me last year.  When I turn on the switch, I get no movement, no hum ... nothing.

I'd like to think the switch is at fault ... but I notice it has a capacitor labeled 7 pico Farad, 250 VAC (the unit is 120 ... I'm just reporting what's on the capacitor).

Basically, it could be the switch (in which case I'll bypass it and have it run on high whenever it's plugged in), the capacitor (in which case I want to replace the capacitor), or the motor (in which case, I'll through it in the scrap bin).

Should I jam the leads of my multi-meter into the wires coming out of the switch to test?  Or ... test the capacitor somehow?

Thanks!


texts:
What could be the problem.  When flushing my toilet, the water flushes normally, it does not fill up and then drains slowly or anything funny.  It flushes normally, but toilet paper and whatever else is in there, would not flush!  This is sooooo frustrating!

Please help.

Thanks,
Haidee


texts: Will sealing off rafter spaces and unusable spaces help my attic insulation plan?

texts: I am trying to warm an exercise floor in an unfinished attic and save on heating at the same time. I want to evaluate whether covering the rafters in my attic with various materials will be worthwhile to warm the space and to save on the heating bill. I have a pyramid shaped attic.  I would separate the peak from the main space with rigid foam, drop a knee-wall of blankets around the perimeter and then close off and connecting the two spaces formed thereby by stapling a layer of plastic sheeting or bubble wrap to the still exposed rafters in between. I think the foam and blankets will help. I am thinking that connecting them by sheeting spaces between the rafters will cut down on draftiness and maybe add r value. Does this plan sound worthwhile implementing for a season or three until I can afford a better system?


texts: How to fix a house window that falls out?

texts:
Two sets of windows on the second floor of our house fall out, due to too much space between the window and frame area.  It's tight enough at the corners of the frame area, but not in the middle.  In fact, I'm able to pull both windows right out with little trouble.

Here are some photos:

I'd love to hear suggestions on how I'd be able to fix.  Would I be able to take off the top white flashing material and add some wood/shims?  Or is the best option to add smaller pieces of wood to the top of the windows themselves to extend them upward?  As the window frame seems taller in the middle (that's the really loose area), I'm thinking adding some shim material to the frame under the white part might be best.

Do products exist out there, to help with this kind of scenario?


texts: 100amp Sub Panel for 75ft - Anything else I need?

texts:
to save myself some costs for adding a sub panel, I'm buying the cabling, sub panel, breakers, etc. NIM for an electrician to finish all the connections.  I'm going to run the cables, etc.  I'm wanting to add a sub-panel in my Garage (on other side of house from main breaker).  Primary reason is we bought a hybrid, and the charger I got is wanting 50 amp breaker (https://www.costco.com/juicebox-pro-40-amp-electric-vehicle-charging-station-evse-with-juicenet%2c-24-ft-cable.product.100397573.html).  I then would like to be able to add a shed off the garage in the future to run power tools as needed, possibly a heater, and run new outlets for holiday lights etc on the exterior.

Some Details:

My main Panel is 200 AMP
My distance is roughly 75ft from main to sub (this is about 7ft of play)
I'm adding a 100AMP sub-panel with main cut off at root (e.g. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-Homeline-40-Circuit-100-Amp-Main-Breaker-Plug-On-Neutral-Load-Center-Value-Pack/50311143)
Based on my research, I believe I can go #3 or #2 AWG, and I need red,   black, white, and ground.  Which I believe is also considered #2/3 with Ground.
Planning on fishing wire on the interior

My questions are:

What if we buy another hybrid, would you feel another charging station could be added?  I feel this could happen, but not for a few years, but want to size right
Does #2/3 w ground mean that it will have red, black, white, and
ground?  In my research the pictures don't always match what I think is correct.

Any suggestions on where to buy that size cable for reasonable price? e.g. is this ok?  I'm assuming the color is really better (https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/industrial-cable/tray-cable-thhn-pvc/thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground/2-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground.html)

Thanks for any help, this site has been informative, and I tried to find matching questions, but then most people don't respond when asked for more details.

Let me know if I missed anything.

Editing to add (thanks to Harper):

I've already been talking with Master Electrician and he has worked with me in the past when replacing the 200 amp because when we moved in it was an old Stab-Lok panel that I wanted to get out of the house.  In addition, permits have been pulled, but I need to adjust because they were going to be for the 200 AMP replacement and a direct line to the charging station.  I since had two things happen, hired a "pro" (licensed/insured) contractor to remodel the basement and he promptly said he would, then ignored running the cabling before drywall was done.  I then decided if I'm going to cut the drywall back open to run the wiring, I'll just add a larger panel and connect the charging station off of that.


texts: How to fix a hollow ceramic shower shelf

texts: Our shelf in the shower cracked off four big pieces but the bottom of the shelf stayed intact. Now we have a jagged bowl shaped shelf left collecting water whenever we shower. Any recommendations on how I can keep the shards level while they cure? Should I fill the hole with foam of some kind and then put epoxy glue on the shards and hope that the foam doesn't move too much until they're cured?


texts: How can I temporarily seal a gap underneath my door to stop water getting in while it's raining?

texts:
During heavy rain the water from the drains outside my apartment overflow. The doors have an almost 1 inch gap at the bottom, and the water floods the apartment.

How can I seal that door gap temporarily during the rain to avoid flooding the apartment?

Currently I live in a small town in Argentina. So I do not have access to all materials and do not have any tools. I was thinking about pressing some sort of modeling material into the gap. Today I was using some towels but that holds the water only if I renew them every few minutes. And I don't know what to do when I leave the apartment for a few days and rain starts while I am absent.

The pictures are from 1 of 2 doors.


texts: What prevents water from getting underneath these roof shingles?

texts:
I see a lot of houses In my area with roof edges where one side of shingles overlaps the other. For example:

Is anything special needed to prevent water from getting underneath the overlap?


texts: I am helping my son remodel the 70 year old house that he just purchased.  He is planning on expanding on the attic on his second floor.  The current ceiling joist are 12'- 2"x6" with the old plaster lathe in the home.  Since that won't support a load of 2 bedrooms and bath - a general contractor close friend suggested rather than putting a 2x8 or 2x10 to sister another 12' 2"x6" to the existing ceiling joists.  He said this would be strong enough to support the load.  This sounds like a great idea since the ceiling height is tight.   Will this work? I would really appreciate a response so I can continue helping my son with this project.   Thanks for your help.


texts: IKEA recessed lights: extreme clearance requirements?

texts:
I'm finishing the ceiling on my basement.  I'm planning to insulate the ceiling with the Roxul Safe'n'Sound Fire & Soundproofing Insulation.  It is 3 inches thick so it only occupies the upper 3 inches of the bay.

I was planning to use IKEA's BLIXT recessed spotlight.  However, I have a concern with its clearance requirements: top of luminaire to overhead building member 0.5"; luminaire center to side building member: 12".  My joist spacing is b/n 11" and 15" so I can't possibly satisfy that.  Those requirements sound a bit extreme, don't they?

From what I could quickly research I think these fall into the "Marked Spacing Type Luminaries" category, according to:

http://www.iaei.org/magazine/2001/07/installation-clearance-requirements-for-recessed-luminaries/

Any thoughts?  Can I make it work?  I like these lights: they look great, are only 35W and cost $19 for 3 pack which is an unbeatable price.


texts:
There seems to be a split between those who say the backer board should go over the tub flange and those who say it should go above. Those who say over say so for drainage. Those who say above seem to suggest because of the surrounding drywall plane.

The tile expert forums go with it over the flange; seemingly the general contractor forums suggest above. Most forums suggests a vapor barrier even with Hardi Backer.

How does a person make the right decision with so many conflicting viewpoints? I know in other posts, the two options are covered; however, little is discussed with regard to the problem of going over the tub flange causing the drywall plane to be uneven. Shimming for example over 1/4" would seem to be a problem blending the CPU board with the drywall. How is that done successfully?


texts:
I am replacing a light fixture in my bathroom with a LED fixture. My house is from the late 20s so there are some quirks. In this case I have 3 sets of wires into the box. There are 6 other lights, basically every light in the front of my house daisy chained from this fixture.

As far as I have been able to figure, one set of wires is from the breaker, one from the switch and one to downstream fixtures.  Everything works fine until I add the new LED fixture. As soon as I add that and turn the power on the light comes on then when I toggle the switch the breaker trips. Is there an issue with the fixture being LED? The previous fixture worked, I just didn't like a chandelier in the bathroom.

Any help is appreciated as I am very frustrated right now. What should have been an easy task is now a PITA.

I am adding a picture so you can see what it looks like. With it wired like this and the switch off, all the downstream fixtures work but if I toggle the switch it blows the breaker.


texts: Rodent proof old garage door with uneven driveway

texts:
My garage door is old and falling apart, plus the driveway at the threshold is uneven. There are big gaps at either end both along the side and bottom. What is the best way to seal these up? I can't afford a new door right now.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/N6Rkn1BhfdsKCxDW2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ikK3Ek98pqcMwixR2


texts: What mortar mix for flaunching on chimney stack?

texts:
What mix and sand\cement ratio's should I use for replacing a chimney stack flaunching?

I've seen suggestions to add some sharp sand to the building sand, and other suggestions to add lime or plasticizer or even PVA glue, but without an explanation of why I don't want to risk it!


texts:
An electrician recently replaced the electrical panel in my apartment and left an inch-wide gap in the plaster along one side of the box. Unfortunately, they had to cut through the lath, so there is no backing for a repair patch.

I've included two pictures below.

Any thoughts on how to approach a repair would be appreciated, and please let me know if you have other questions that might be relevant.

Thanks!


texts: How do I remove these Ikea screws? (studs inside holes)

texts:
I bought and assembled an Ikea sofa bed (asssembly instructions here). I'm moving soon and want to take apart the couch to make it easier to lift.

Some of the screws needed for the assembly come in 2 parts: the head and the threads. You screw the head onto the threads and then use that on the couch. Here's what that looks like:

How do I remove these screws? When I try to unscrew them only the head comes out, leaving the thread part in the couch. I have a lot of extras, so would using a screw extractor work? I don't mind if the screws currently in the couch get ruined/tossed.

The way these are assembled means that the parts they hold together remain together even if the head is removed. It effectively becomes a pin on two sides of a box and prevents the box from being slid off the pin.  .

EDIT: My plan now is to unscrew the screws in step 14 of the assembly guide and then use a thread locker/screw extractor on the back screws in step 7. This should hopefully allow me to split the 2 sections of the couch albeit with the armrest/back still attached.


texts: Why doesn't my garage door close unless I am holding down the button?

texts: When I push my inside of garage button for the door to close, the door attempts to go down, motor light flashes and door goes back up again. I had to keep holding the wall button for the door to actually go down and close.


texts: Pros and cons of self stick vs adhesive kitchen vinyl floor tiles

texts: I would like a long lasting floor covering with no seams (because seams tend to get dirty).  Most of the vinyl tile I see sold by Sears and Home Depot are self-stick.  Do self-stick last over the years as well as adhesive?


texts: What are these things that look kind of like sprinklers in my ceiling?

texts: What are these things coming out of my ceiling? They look kind of like sprinklers but I'm told we don't have a fire suppression system of any sort.  Are they sprinklers?  Mostly placed in the corners of rooms.  Any ideas?


texts: Is it possible to a drill hole in the bottom of a terracotta gardening pot?

texts: I would like to make some drainage holes in the bottom of some terracotta pots I have. I am tempted to use a drill but am not sure whether this will work and how  should go about it. Has anyone ever done this?


texts:
I'm having minor breathing issues and suspect the home air quality, which seems to be excessively full of particles/dust. The air quality is visually noticeable daily, regardless of basic cleaning/outside air steps take the day before.

Background: I bought the home last fall, it was a DIY 1700sq ft remodel built in CO in 1980 and the home inspection found nothing substantively wrong. It has central air - electric single unit AC/Heat Pump.

Just before the winter I had the attic insulated and sealed with cellulose. A short while later I started noticing the breathing issues and dust in the air. There is no HVAC in the attic, and it started getting cold around the installation time, so perhaps it's just a misleading coincidence.

I have replaced the HVAC filter several times and use one of the higher quality HEPA filters (rated for smoke particles). I had a company come in and clean the ducts. I have vacuumed, dusted, and had all the windows open on days 65F+ to circulate new air in, without engaging the HVAC system more than a couple of times. The picture is less than 24 hours after such a complete clean and open window day and shows the density of particles in the morning sun.

Couple of edits from comments - I have basic home air filters in the basement and in the master bedroom and I leave a humidifier on in the kitchen area constantly (definitely a hard water area though). House is still low though... about 34% humidity in the basement. No one smokes in the home, and I moved about three miles... my last place I never recall seeing the air quality so low (gas central air in a studio)!

What can I do to identify and fix the excessive dust/air quality? Are there tools, a likely suspect, or a professional service that I need to source?


texts:
I bought a house recently. Some of the wiring, particularly in the basement, while not obviously unsafe, is... inspired.
On the side of a junction box in the basement, there's a device with two thin wires coming off of it, going up into a hole. I believe, but don't know for sure, that above the hole is an exterior wall, but there's nothing on that wall that would use such thin wires - just switches and outlets, which I'd hope are fed from the thicker cables also going through that hole.
So what is this thing?


texts: Suggestions on How to Remove Very Old Carpet Tape from Hardwood Floor

texts: The tape was double-sided mesh carpet tape. It has been under a runner in an entryway for about 20 years and is now just a dried mesh and whatever residue is left from the glue that was on the tape.  Can anyone suggest a method of removing the tape without doing damage to the floor?  Thanks!


texts: Using a 30-amp tandem circuit breaker for a 120/240v circuit?

texts:
I inherited a main panel box from a homeowner that wasn't always fond of meeting the required NEC codes.  As such, there are some oddities in the panel.  One such oddity is the fact that he installed a couple of tandem circuit breakers for use in 120/240 circuits.

Specifically, there are two Murray MH-T 30-amp breakers.  These are tandem breakers and not "slimline" or "thin" breakers -- the two breaker switches on each are not connected in any way.  One of these breakers is used for the clothes dryer and the other for an electric water heater.

In the case of the dryer circuit, there's one 10/3 NM wire, with the hot black attached to one of the sides of the tandem breaker and the hot red attached to the other side.  The neutral is connected to the neutral bar.  In the water heater case, there's a 10/2, with both the white and black attached to their respective sides of the tandem breaker.

I want to stress that this absolutely is working.  Both the dryer and water heater were wired this way well before I moved in and it's only now, years later, that I noticed what was going on.  It's worked fine all along.

This seems all sorts of wrong, though.  It's still a single pole breaker, even if there are two 120v circuits coming off it.  It seems like if this was okay, that I'd hear about using a tandem breaker as a space-saving slim 220v breaker... but I've seem nothing.

So, what's wrong with doing this?  What's the ramifications if I don't change these two out with traditional double-pole breakers?

EDIT: Added photo of the breakers in question:

The very top is a double-pole 20-amp breaker that's fine.  The first 30-amp tandem is the dryer breaker and the second is the water heater.

EDIT 2: Added photo of the dryer breaker popped off the panel:

You can clearly see the two buses and that there doesn't appear to be any shenanigans connecting the two of them.  I removed the top double-pole breaker for clarity.  The popped dryer breaker is clearly a single pole, as you can see the one entry slot.  It's apparently connected to the left bus and only that bus.


texts: gas fireplace will not shut off with wall switch

texts: Fireplace has a remote switch.  The switch is good.  The fireplace stays on with switch in off position.The switch can be unplugged and still fireplace will stay on. Is the gas valve just stuck open?


texts: Bulbs for Round Kitchen Fixture Containing a Ballast

texts:
I cannot seem to find bulbs for this fixture.  It is a 6 in. round recessed fixture intended for a single HID or fluorescent bulb, which was installed by the previous owner.
It contains a fluorescent bulb, but the bulb has no useful markings as to the manufacturer.
Attached is a photo of the label from within the fixture that contains additional details.
--Additional Info, based on comments--
Thanks for the quick response.  As I understand it A19, PAR38, and BR40 refer to the size and shape of the bulb--not the type and size of the base.  For example, an A19 or an A21 bulb usually have an E26 base (i.e., the part that goes into the socket).  The socket of this fixture accepts an E26 base.
I interpreted the label to mean that only HID and Fluorescent bulbs should be used with this fixture, and using a CFL or incandescent bulb would not be OK.  The existing fluorescent bulb is a 3 in round globe with an E26 base; it is labelled as a self-ballasted bulb.
Any suggestions for a replacement bulb are appreciated.


texts: Wallpaper removal: Should I use chemicals in addition to a steamer

texts: I'm removing wallpaper that has a layer of paint underneath. Currently, I'm using a scoring tool then a steamer to remove the different layers. As you can imagine this is a slow process. Would it be advantageous to use chemicals before I use the steamer?


texts: Is there any significant loss of cooling efficiency to wrap the both sunction line and liquid line together using one single insulator?

texts:
The installation of a split-type air-conditioner wraps both sunction line and liquid line together using one single insulation, instead of wraping each line separately.  Is there any significant loss of cooling efficiency to do so?

[EDIT1: Looks like that I mixed up the pipes and now corrected them.]

[EDIT2: This type of installation is very common in my city and they even wrap the electric wires inside the insulator too.]


texts:
I'm working on a DIY Mirror Touch frame and am on the final stages connecting everything.

I have the issue where I was unable to find a deep enough aluminum frame and therefor have the issue where the power cable would protrude from the backside (see first image below and red line).

I've managed to disassemble the DVI connector and reduce the protrusion there.

For the power connector, I would appreciate support with soldering the Power adapter wires to the PCB - as I have no idea which solder point on the PCB should be associated with which wire (DC Live, Ground or DC neutral). I would de-solder and remove the power connector on the PCB and solder the wires directly (and then add a good amount of hot-glue).


texts: CCTV connection to OTA feeding multiple TV sets

texts:
I have security cameras (CCTV) and I'm trying to connect to my TV's that are using an outside antenna.  I've been successful in getting a SV-2G splitter (5/1000 MHz) installed on the OTA feed prior to the Antenna Amplifier.  The other leg of the splitter is where I connected the CCTV feed.  This configuration yields good OTA channels and clarity, but the CCTV is very snowy.  When I installed a Attenuator on the OTA feed (prior to the splitter) it cleaned up the CCTV feed, but have lost 30% of my OTA channels, probably due to the reduced signal input after the Attenuator.  Is there a different type of splitter or Attenuator that I might try to regain the lost TV channels without affecting the quality of the CCTV picture?

Thanks


texts:
I've installed some outdoor security cameras and ran the Cat5e cables along the outside of the walls. Now I want to protect the parts where the cables are exposed to the sun. What are my options? I was thinking to use some kind of spiral wrap.

Thanks for the help.


texts: Is polymeric sand necessary for paver joint?

texts:
I have seen the ads and display of polymeric sand for paver joints. I am using 6x9 concrete paver with just regular paver sand. This is my first time doing this so I don't know if I will regret few years later as the sands got washed out. I live Pacific Northwest so there is a bit of rain but not like heavy water rain, more like shower continuously.

My questions are:

How long the regular sand supposed to last? Any long term success story here?
Is it easier to apply sealer instead of replacing the current sand (using pressure washer) and put in polymeric sand? Replacement seems like a tiring job in the future.

Thanks


texts:
I have two rooms with different floor level
The wall is removed so now I need the floors to be all level.

The higher floor has plywood
Should I try to put 2x4 and nail into concrete foundation and level with shims then plywood?

Or is there a proper way to do this without messing up the foundation and still not level?


texts: Do I need to protect 12/2 cable while running them through finished walls? Onto concrete foundation?

texts:
I'd like to run three new 12/2 cables for 20A circuits into my attached garage. Was wondering if I need to shield it at all if it's inside a finished wall or ceiling.
Circuit 1 will stay inside the finished wall and be broken into a 20A GFCI and normal 20A outlet (on the "load line" side of the GFCI outlet). The cables for circuits 2 and 3 will go into one side of the finished wall and be broken out in a metal junction box on the opposite side (inside the garage). From there, I think I will need to run 12/2 Metal Clad along the concrete foundation to a metal-encased 20A GFCI outlet, since it's in the open and exposed to damage/water (the foundation isn't leaking but you never know).
I live in Massachusetts. This is my first home DIY electrical project but I'm comfortable working around electricity.


texts: Delay between toilet flushing and filling

texts:
Suddenly the cistern is only filling after a delay from 2 to 10 seconds whereas it was immediate some days ago. I didn't touch anything and I'm sure noone entered my flat.

Not sure if it is a problem though as there isn't any leaking.

I don't know if it is linked but it seems this

doesn't serve any purpose since the cistern is filling whatever if it is open or closed.

Here is the best picture I could take:


texts: I have removed the tile in my master bath shower and found the shower was sealed by hot mop. I'm assuming I have to remove the subfloor and install fresh plywood. I'm wondering what's the best method of removing the tar covered plywood?


texts: What size knee braces should I install on my Pergola?

texts:
I have a 20'x20' pergola on a concrete patio.
Construction is 8"x8" posts sandwiched with 2"x8" rafters.
I notice some swaying during some thunderstorms with heavy winds and I can push on a post with some effort, that moves the whole pergola.
What size knee bracing should I install (width and length)?


texts: Light between 3 way switches and installation of electronic timer switch

texts:
an amateur here looking for some advise on installing an Ascend STW700W smart timer in to an existing 3 way switch.
I've done this a few times before, but this is the first time that I have come across what I think is the set up called "light between 3 way switch".  From what I can see I have a 2 wire line input that doesn't immediately power the switch in the box, but rather powers a switch in another room (the other part of the 3-way), which is confusing me no end.  Ascend provides a wiring setup, but i their 3 way wiring they don't have two travelers (see other picture).  Any advice would be gratefully received


texts: How do I protect my new roof while working on siding?

texts:
I recently had new shingles installed on my home. Now I find that I need to remove a section of vinyl siding and replace a large window on front dormer.

I am concerned about damage being done to the new roof during the process involving ladders and lots of foot traffic.

How should I protect my roof during the process?


texts: Lost power to a few rooms upstairs on Sunday (ran a space heater and hair dryer at some time). I thought we tripped a breaker but nothing was flipped in the electric panel. I reset every breaker to be sure. Then I checked we were getting power to each one with a fuse tester and that looks good. I reset all the GFCIs and found one that wouldn't reset out by the garage. So I replaced it and it reset but it didn't solve the problem.


texts: Craftsman Screw Drive Garage Door opens too far

texts:
How does the opener know when to stop when it's moving to the open position?

Have two openers 1 for each door; one works fine, the other opens too far and actually bangs into the actual opener housing.

On other openers I've had there has been a visible lever the opener hits to stop but none is apparent on this one.

Thank you!


texts:
I live in the Boulder Colorado area where we have hot intense sunny summer days, and below zero freezing winter nights. We are planning to install a sliding patio door in a south facing full sun area. I am also concerned about damage to the outdoor frame, as our current sliding door leaks during intense rain storms due to cracked seals and weathering.

What are some of the things I should look for when searching for the new sliding door?


texts:
I have an air conditioning unit that was here when I bought the house.  It was in the 70's here today, but I have an old house and windows don't open so the house was hot.  I decided to turn on the ac and put it at about 65 degrees.  I left the house for about 1.5 hours and when I came home the house was hot.  I went outside and the lines that run from the ac to the house were white with snow/ice.

I turned off the ac and checked and changed the filter.  I have had the ac service people out twice this year.  First time was to replenish the refrigerant, which was low. Second time was because there was still water leaking from somewhere in the basement.  He put more putty around the hoses on the inside unit and the water stopped leaking out.  On the second trip he rechecked the refrigerant and it was still ok from the charge he did on the first trip.

I am wondering if that might have caused the freezing.  Also, wondering if running it in cooler weather...ie., the temp outside was cooler than the temp inside could create this situation.  Does this sound like there are additional problems?

I did what I thought was appropriate:  At the first of the year I did have a service person check it twice this year and he said all I needed was freon on the first trip, and that everything seemed ok on the second... I'm concerned as I have a fixed income and can't really afford a lot of additional charges and I hate to say it but I am afraid of being taken advantage of because I don't know that much about the subject.

Any tips on making sure the service man is not just trying to sell me a new ac if that is what it comes down to? Thanks.


texts: 2-wire switch loop controlling 2 outlets - replacing with 3-wire to fix?

texts:
I am in nearly this exact situation:

Can I use a switch loop to power a ceiling fan?

We are trying to install a fan, but instead of having a single duplex outlet on the same wall as the switch, we have 2 different duplex outlets on opposite sides of the room behind plaster walls.

This is the first time I've ever worked with a switch loop, and honestly, my brain is failing me. Can I replace the 14/2 romex between the closest outlet and the switch with 14/3, which should give me all of the conductors necessary to hook up the fan switch and fan? Or do I need to replace the wire between the two duplex outlets as well (as I said, the switch controls both of them)?

The first is probably something I can do with a spare saturday, a fish tape, and a 25' piece of 14/3. The second would require tearing down plaster through a good part of my wife's studio and more patching than I think we're really able to do right now.

Any help would be very much appreciated. Now I'm aware that several rooms in our house seem to be wired this way, and I'm thinking I have a mess on my hands. Especially because it doesn't look like any of the white wires have been marked as hot.

Edit due to confusion:

This diagram shows approximately how the wiring looks. The major differences would be, instead of having a lamp, there are 2 outlets. Both outlets are switched. Switch goes on, both outlets get power. Switch goes off, both outlets lose power.

What I believe I need to do is rewire the outlets and switch so they match this diagram which follows modern code:

These wiring diagrams belong to do-it-yourself-help.com. The original images can be found here: https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_switches.html

What I need to know is if I have to include both of the outlets if I replace the 14-2 wire with 14-3? Can you install 14-3 half way through the switch loop?


texts:
My shower lower faucet has been dripping for a few months. Last month I tried to change the cartridge, but it didn't work.   I then found it didn't drip after I tightened the faucet clockwise but now it is dripping again.
I found both the faucet and the control knob are moving a little bit towards the left day by day. You can see the gaps which are breaking the caulk.
How can I stop this?  I worry it may be leaking inside.

Updated 4/17/2021
Finally I fixed it. Not cartridge issue, it was because there are whitewater residues with brass green rust, they introduced space when switch is turned on. I removed those dirties, then it didn’t drip now.
Next is to fix movement of shower hardware, wall doesn’t move, the hardware does


texts: Under-slab insulation vs. slab perimeter insulation

texts:
Currently in the final planning stages of my new house ("raised ranch" style), and the first floor is going to be slab-on-grade.  My current insulation plan has 2" of XPS under the slab across its entire area (with a vapor barrier and 4" of 2B stone beneath).  However, when I went to put the compliance information into ResCheck, that application only had parameters for entering perimeter insulation (e.g. from the edge of the slab, vertically down to the footers).  That leads me to believe entire-slab insulation isn't that common.

My question is, from a thermodynamic standpoint, is it pointless to insulate the field of the slab if the perimeter is insulated, or do you still get a lot of energy migration down through the stone into the dry earth below?  Does most of the energy loss in a basement occur from conduction of the slab to the foundation walls to the exterior, or is there still a significant amount of vertical conduction into the soil?


texts: How should I connect a new timer switch?

texts: trying to install a new 4 hour timer switch for my bathroom vent.  the new timer has 4 wires green (ground) red white and black and they are labeled as to where they should go.  but the problem is that there are three black wires currently connected to the old switch and the whites are tied together.  I know that I need to tie the whites to the existing whites but I am trying to figure out why there are three black wires in the box all connected to the old switch.  on the old switch looking at the back there is one black wire in the top middle which I believe is the hot, one black wire in the bottom middle of the switch which I believe is the load but the third one is attached to the left side top screw could this also be a neutral. hope you can help


texts: Voltage on the protective earth conductor?

texts:
Got a weird situation in my house. Sorry for the horrible "hand drawing" below and also for probably not using the correct terms (i'm not an electrician).

Here's one of the multiple circuits in my house: there's a circuit breaker (just a regular one that breaks on overcurrent, not the differential kind), then wires leaving through a long (5-10 meters), flexible PVC tube to another part of the house, through a wall socket and to an appliance (washing machine, let's say).

The question is: if the PE (protective earth) conductor - yellow in my drawing - is disconnected from the ground (?) at the distribution board, how normal is it to see a voltage between the points marked "Voltage here?" in the drawing (when there's also voltage on the live wire)? I've got multiple such circuits in my house and, for some, if you touch the disconnected PE conductor, you can feel a pinch in your fingers. Contact voltage detector also lights up slightly, and using a multimeter can show even ~60V in high impedance mode, or a much lower value in low impedance.

So, could this be ghost voltage (and therefore not a more serious problem)?

Otherwise, this could indicate a defective appliance (what if this phenomenon occurs with the appliance plugged in and disappears without?) ? Or an insulation fault between the line, neutral and PE conductors (this happened a few times before, because of probably broken conductor insulation and moisture in the PVC tube - from when the house was built)?


texts: What type of contractor would I hire to level a concrete floor?

texts: I am doing some renovations, and I've recently uncovered an original concrete floor that I would like to have leveled for carpet to be installed. It's currently sloped from level with the adjoining floor to about 2 inches below the joining floor. I'm guessing it will need some type of self leveling concrete material. I would prefer to have a professional take care of it, I'm just not sure who to contact.


texts: Can sill plates extend one inch beyond the foundation wall to accommodate foam insulation?

texts: Is it ok to have the sill plate 1 inch past the concrete all the way around the house to allow for 2 in foam to the foundation.


texts: What is the standard distance a closet rod should be from the back wall?

texts: Is there a standard distance that a closet rod should be from the back wall of the closet?  Is there also a minimum?  If so, will all standard closet rod brackets conform to this depth?


texts: Using a HRV/ERV Fan without mounting it on a wall/window?

texts:
DIYers,

I'm considering various options for home improvement and improving the home economy and resource/climate efficiency. One area of focus is the fact that I live in Denmark and it can get quite cold, and so HRV and ERV fans seem like appealing options, especially the single-room ones, as adding an entire ventilation system is expensive.

The point is to ventilate the area while retaining the heat generated from indoor heating in winter, as airing out using the windows (the only other ventilation source) runs the issue of heat loss and inefficient air exhaust if I'm not generating a draft from another room, causing heat loss.

Before that, however, I am a tenant, even if the rules are a bit different where I live from the usual private situation (effectively a form of state-regulated, yet non-government public housing organization called "Almen boligforening").

I'm not very experienced in DIY work, but I'm also not the only one I know nearby capable of contributing to a project like this in terms of carpentry/electric engineering capacity. I would like to ask here first for reference, though.

I am highly uncertain whether or not I would be allowed to make any large-scale home improvements, especially those that can be seen on the outside as a permanent modification to the aesthetic, as the local organization really values the "rustic" aesthetic.

It is also worth noting, as I update this post, to note that this is not the first action I would want to take for home improvement, noting things like weatherization and consumption optimization, but those seem to be a lot easier to have answered through Google than what I'm asking, as anything I ask just comes up with more generic "How to install a HRV fan" videos.

And so, with that as context for an answer, I ask the following:

Is it, from your views, practically feasible/efficient, in terms of cost-savings as a result, among others, of the less-airtight seal of a dismountable wall? for me to make some sort of heavily insulated wall that can be dismounted from a window in a jiffy, with one of the single-room heat/energy-recovery fans in them, plugged to an outlet, easily removable if I receive complaints?

I'm not sure I'd be allowed to glue it on, and so I'm not sure if there's much of an easily-removable adhestive option that would give me a tight seal to maximize efficiency, yet also allowing me to dismount the construct following complaints.

If there's something like this already offered in the market, I'd probably want to know as well. It would likely take DIY work, but would reduce it, and would probably be a more efficient product than what I would expect to make by hand.

Thanks for the answers in advance.


texts: Using existing hot water vent for extraction

texts:
I have a room in the basement with equipment (computers) that gets really hot. There is an ac vent but the thermostat is nowhere near the room.

Also in an alcove is the hot water heater behind a louvered door.

I want to install an extractor fan essentially and create negative pressure in that alcove which will suck in the hot air and expel it outside through the existing hot water heater exhaust ducting. Putting a direct extractor outside I figured it would create back pressure and back draft, so how would I best connect an extraction system into the same ducting as the hot water heater. It vents directly outside the wall a little bit higher up in the space


texts: Ceiling fan installation in masonary ceiling - Anchor failure considerations for dynamic loads

texts:
I have a project that involves mounting a ceiling fan to an exposed masonry ceiling. The ceiling is sections of precast concrete (I think the right term is “flexicore”) 24” wide and about 8” think. The plan calls to mount a standard 30-50lb ceiling fan fixture, under an appropriately-rated electrical junction box, directly to this masonry. My initial though was to simply use a couple of Tapcon masonry anchors to secure the box, as that seems like standard industry practice for securing small-to-medium fixtures to masonry. It’s also what appears to be used for other fixture and conduit runs in the same building. However, after thinking a bit more I’m worried about the fact that a ceiling fan creates an small dynamic load through minor vibrations that are not inherit in other static mounting applications. In theory this dynamic load could weaken the integrity of the anchor’s threaded contacts over many many years, even for an application that is otherwise well within load limits. So I’m trying to figure out if this effect is so small as to be totally negligible, or if it’s something that really necessitates a different type of anchor.

A pair of 1/4” Tapcons at 1-3/4” depth seems to be sufficient to hold 20+ ceiling fans (load chart here) assuming factor of safety of 4 and lowest PSI of 2000 (I don’t actually know the PSI rating of this concrete, so I’m just going with the lowest value). This seems like a bulletproof approach, but again, I have no idea to what extent the dynamic load factor comes into play. I was hoping someone with industry knowledge of masonry anchor failure would be able to shed some light on that.

Alternative Approaches

I’ve done some light exploratory drilling and probing in a hidden section of the ceiling to get a sense of where the hollows are, and where I would therefore expect the pretension cables to be. This of course means that I also have the ability to drill directly into a hollow (they are about 6” in diameter and thus come within about 1” of the surface). This would allow me to use some form of toggle anchor or SnapToggle instead of a Tapcon. This of course requires pretty big holes, and I suppose may come with other risks, but it's a very inciting option.


texts: Cause for an Amana electric dryer overheating

texts:
We noticed our Amana electric dryer making a rattling noise as well as overheating (top of the appliance, air duct and clothes in the dryer are very hot).

Here are things I checked for:

Air vent is unobstructed and clean. It's a flexible 'accordion' metal vent that appears to be slightly damaged (one 'layer' of metal has teared) although it does not appear to 'leak' air in any way. Also, I can feel a breeze from the outside which reinforces the idea that the vent is unobstructed.
Cycling thermostat has conductivity;
Wheel blower was the source of rattling because it was wobbly. I gave it a couple of spins counter clockwise (facing the appliance from behind) and that seemed to secure it properly. (Edit: Initially I thought I had fixed the wheel blower but after running a cycle and observing the same overheating issue I retested the wheel blower only to notice that it doesn't seem to spin freely. I will try to change it.)
Heating element does not have visible breaks or warps and has conductivity (between the 'prongs' where electric connectors are but not between prongs and casing which I understand would be a short);
The exhaust duct (where the lint screen goes) is unobstructed, all the way to the metal part where the vent connects to.

I tried simply replacing the cycling thermostat as it was inexpensive and I did not see other possible causes but that changed nothing (dryer still hot).

Note: the dryer was not moved or changed in any way between its well-functioning state and the current overheating state.

What could be the source of overheating ? I thought about the fuse and high-limit thermostat but wouldn't those help avoid damage to the dryer in case of overheating but not actually prevent overheating ? My understanding may be incorrect.

The model number is most likely YNED4655EW although I did not find it specifically on my dryer.


texts: Large 1" Gap between new flooring and trim. Help!

texts: We had 3/8" engineered flooring installed over our original floor in the hallway and landing. I asked the contractor to install around the door trim instead of cutting them down but did not anticipate that he would leave gaps of approx. 1" between the new flooring and trim. Help! He has installed shoe moulding over some of the trim to cover the gap and wants to cut up smaller pieces to fill in the others and then caulk. Please advise on what the appropriate fix would be. Does this require ripping up the engineered planks around the trim and recutting? What's currently there is unsightly. Please advise and thanks in advance.


texts:
I'm trying to sort out drainage for a large shed roof. It's 23 sqm. I'm going to stick gutters on it, but my nearest drain is the other end of my garden, 25m away.

My current plan is to drain the roof into a single, large (200 litre or similar) water butt behind the shed, then run 20mm MDPE pipe from there down the side of the garden and into the drain. Will this work? If my water butt is roughly a metre high and I put the drainage hole near the bottom, then I've only got a metre of head. I can raise the butt up, maybe half a metre.

I don't need any great pressure from the flow, just enough to reach the drain and to empty sufficiently between storms. I live in Leicester and the average rainfall is about 600mm per year.

I don't want to spend a fortune doing this.

I've looked around the net and on other forums, but no-one seems to have quite done the same thing. I asked a company about a similar setup but using a soaker hose instead of running to the drain, but they don't think there'd be enough pressure to force the water from the hose. I'd like to avoid using a water butt pump if possible - I don't want the maintenance, or the hassle for what is essentially waste water.


texts: Should I repair this very small area of minor water damage on my bathroom floor?

texts:
I’m getting ready to install LVT over existing VCT in my bathroom, and when I pulled up the shoe molding I discovered that the corner of the floor next to the shower has a slight soft spot at the very edge, with just a slight give when I press my finger in the very edge of the corner. The radius of the give is well under an inch, and the deflection no more than 1/8 inch down. It’s not wet so it seems like it must’ve been this way for a long time, and perhaps some cracking caulk for where the shower had been sealed long ago is to blame. There is also some evidence of a small amount of mold.
I’ve treated the mold with vinegar, but do I need to pull up the floor and repair this small spot?  It won’t be noticeable once I’ve installed the new floor, and if I take care to seal it well, do I still need to be worried about it getting worse some how?
Update: I peeled up the flooring to reveal the extent of the damage to the wood subfloor, and the top layer was a little crumbly but it’s solid underneath (see photo). Would it work for me to just patch it up now? Any recommended patch strategy?
Thank you!


texts: What does it mean to drain into a "laundry tub?"

texts:
In the USA my American-made tankless water heater's install manual says that the condensate line can empty into either a drain or a "laundry tub" and then continues to explain that leaving laundry soap in the tub can help neutralize the solution.

Should I interpret this to mean that I can drain into basically a fancy bucket of i want to?


texts:
The radiator in my living room is slowly leaking from one of its ends; curiously it's not the end connected to the inlet or outlet pipe, nor the one where the vent valve is, but the fourth one. Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/GSTERWl . It is leaking from the bottom-left end, where you can see the red container and and some corrosion in the pictures of the detail (with and without that plastic cap that seems to be there only for looks).
I suppose that the only long-term solution is replacing it, especially because of the corrosion. However, is there a temporary fix that can let me carry on for a few months/years without immediate danger? For the moment the leak is only a very slow drip; I put a container and after days there are only a few drops that do not even cover the bottom. I could even think about leaving it this way, if there is no risk of it suddenly flooding my floor without warnings.
The house is fairly recent (2008).


texts: What quick and dirty tool/method should I use for cutting scrap drywall?

texts:
I have a pile of drywall scrap that's been sitting in my garage for a few years after a remodel, "just in case".  My buddy came up with the idea of turning it into "karate boards" for our kids to destroy.  Scrap pieces start at half sheet (4x4) and go down.

I'm also on the lookout for an excuse to buy something new. (Honey, it's for the kids!)  At this point my only idea is to use the circular saw and toss the blade afterwards.


texts:
Occasionally, my central AC, both inside and outside units being Lennox, stops cooling and blows only fan. The outside unit's fan does run. The air blowing is not cooled and the fat pipe near the air handler (inside unit) is not cold, like it is when it works fine. This happens only sometimes and mostly it works fine.

Can you guess the reason for this behavior?


texts:
Just fitted a kitchen from ikea... all but the worktops.

Our kitchen is a corner kitchen.

The worktops we have been provided are a stock length and need to be cut down in length to fit.

After I have cut the worktop, at the section where one work top meets the other, what am i meant to use to cover the cut edge and seal from water ingress? Wonderfully Ikea don't supply anything for this.


texts: How can I make a rubber cover for my hammer?

texts:
I have a hammer (wooden handle with steel head) that I love (kind of an heirloom) and I like using it for lots of things. Its great for most jobs, but there are some things where I don't want the steel hammer head to make contact with what I am hammering. Instead of going out and buying a separate rubber hammer, I want to create a DIY hammer accessory whereby I slide on a rubber sleeve or cover on to the head. This way, whenever I encounter the kind of tasks that require a rubber hammering end, I can just put the rubber cover on and hammer away.

The trouble is, I'm skeptical as to how feasible this idea is. I haven't seen many rubber products out there that are close to being the right dimensions to fit snugly on my hammer. For example, I found some hammer covers on amazon but they are actually whole rubber head replacements and they interface with a screw threading. I just want a slide on cover.

Then I thought, maybe I can call up a rubber manufacturer and say: "hey uh, want to help a brother out?" but I think that's most likely going to be a difficult course of action because I don't know any one who works in that industry and I have a sinking feeling if I want a custom mold they will need a minimum order (like 1000 pcs or something).

Here is a visual representation of what I'm after:

EDIT My hammer is pretty much like this picture, wooden handle and everything. One difference is that my hammer head is actually a square, 1.25"x1.25" Depth doesn't matter so much, but I'd want the rubber cove to probably be around the .25-.5" range. Sorry for not providing this information earlier; just realized how important it was :(

Question: Is there an economical way I can tackle my thus far hypothetical DIY rubber hammer cover project? Or alternatively, is there a product out there somewhere that could work for my task?

Further Clarifications:

rubber cover must slide on snuggly to my hammer
ideally, for DIY approach, I'd like it to fit perfectly (tailor made feel) if that's possible
budget is $20
must work with my heirloom hammer (no buying other rubber hammers as replacement)


texts: How can I combine the two panels in a duplex on one meter?

texts: I own both halves of a duplex (200 amps each) which I've converted into one house. I would like to have one energy bill. Is there a simple way I can easily feed service to the second panel from the first panel from one incoming meter/service?


texts: Description of Concrete Classification Numbers (e.g. C15, C25 etc.)

texts:
I was reading my plumbing code and came across mysterious concrete classification numbers like C15 and C25.

I tried googling it and only came across a couple of sources describing these numbers (like here and here for example), but these sources do not appear authoritative.

Where can I find an authoritative description (preferably online) of these concrete classification numbers?


texts: I have a deck that is 10’ off the bottom patio. Bands are 2x12. A single band against the house is lag bolted every other joist. The outer band is a double 2x12. Under the span of the hot tub (about 6.5 ft) I have 3 - 2x10x10 joists bolted together. The joists have bond timbers under them attached to the band. Will this amply hold the weight of the hot tub? (approx 5000 lb.) I do not want to put a post underneath in the center as it will block the walk way underneath. The outer band is supported about every 7-8 ft by 6x6.


texts: I have PU polish on veneer in my wardrobe. I accidently put a heavy weight over it, so polish seems to have left the veneer and appears as white. How can i fix it? Will using hot iron work? Kindly suggest


texts: How to deal with a pop up drain install when nut doesn't sit flush with bottom of the sink?

texts:
Finished up a bathroom today and installed a pop up drain assembly on new sink.  The nut to tighten the drain assembly is off by about a 1/4 inch - tight in the back, gap in front.  I am guessing that this is a defect in the sink because I haven't used this sink before nor been this far off with a nut.

Pop up came with a few crappy plastic gaskets.  A combo of the gaskets and plumber's putty got it to drain without leaking but I don't feel right about it.  Is this the normal way to deal with the issue, bigger gasket, other?

Extra explanation:  Won't be back to the house until Tuesday so will try to explain better.  A normal install would have the popup drain assembly 90 degrees from the bottom of sink (hole).  You would tighten gasket with drain nut... boom done.

When I go to tighten nut (let's say no gasket yet) the nut cannot ever full tighten because one side hits well before the other.  The gasket that came with it didn't help because it basically just extends the issue.  So I put a massive amount of plumber's putty right under sink hole on the side that the nut doesn't hit. Then gasket, then nut.  Works... but who knows if it gets knocked or a lot of use.


texts: How can I purge air from a baseboard heating system with the spigots on the wrong side?

texts:
My (new) baseboard heating system is causing a racket, and I've been trying to figure out a way to properly purge the air from it. Following the flow of water through one zone of my four-zone system, it goes:

Furnace output → Circulating pump → Expansion tank → Hand valve (A) → Thermostat-controlled valve → Spigot (A) → Radiators throughout house → Hand valve (B) → Water main input → Spigot (B) → Furnace input.

I've been trying to figure out a way that I can force the air in the pipes out with new water from the main. If there were a spigot right before hand valve (B), for example, I could close hand valve (B), open the spigot right before it, and let the water pump through the system and out that spigot to purge the air. However, the spigot (A) is instead on the other side of the piping through the radiators.

I have read about using the pressure from the main line rather than the pump to purge the air, and I've also heard mention of "reverse purging" (which I suspect my system might be set up for, given that the spigots immediately follow the zone control valves). I'm still not sure what to do, though—any suggestions?


texts:
I am looking to attach an unthreaded galvanized steel pipe to either copper or a new unthreaded pipe. See my previous post for details: Should this section of water line be replaced?

Per https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/mechanical-trades/ask-the-plumbing-experts/38067-connect-to-galvanized-pipe-without-threads I have found this coupling:

https://www.shamrocksupply.com/itemDetailFilterPH.action?RFP=IFD&IDP=Y&codeId=9241200

However, I cannot find any other pictures nor instructions for installing it.

Can anyone guide me? I'd rather not spend ~$25 on a coupling which may not work for my application.

Would this product be a better choice for my application?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-PVC-Compression-Coupling-511-43-1-1H/206667870?MERCH=REC--pipinstock--202269928--206667870--N

The product page states:

  For connecting piping and repairs of PVC and galvanized pipe


texts: How can I fix a garage door that opens randomly?

texts:
I moved into a new house and didn't have any issues with the garage door. About a week after I moved in, I bought a remote for the opener since the owner hadn't given me one. After programming the remote, we realized that my next door neighbor's remote worked my garage (but mine didn't work their's). I re-programmed my remote with a new frequency and fixed that issue, but now the garage opens on its own.

I've tried using the lock button on the wall but that doesn't help. The only thing that prevents it from opening is to unplug the opener entirely. I don't think it's an issue with the remote at this point because it opened while I was away from my house with the remote (luckily I made sure to lock the door from the garage to the house).

Is this likely an issue with the actual opener or the wiring? Is there anything I can do to check?


texts: Sun control film selection or my bedroom to reduce AC heat load

texts:
I have a West facing room with large glass windows (approx. 30 sq ft) in a tropical nation. The summer sun heats up the room considerably.

I was thinking of applying sun control film to the windows to reduce the load on my AC. The goal is to get max heat load reduction with minimum light reduction. What do people think of the following specs?

Also, the website of the company making these films has a bunch of other films on offer. I'm a tad confused if any other film will suit my goal better.

http://www.garwaresuncontrol.com/hhr-grey-70.html

Any tips? What parameters ought to I focus on. There's too many defining each film. Is a Total Solar Energy Rejection of 40% a decent value or can one do better?


texts: How does a copper water pipe disintegrate?

texts:
Plumber found (what he called) a pin leak at the elbow.  It has done considerable damage.
I want to know how this happens and if more of my pipes might be affected.
NOTES:
House is 20 years old.
I don't often use the bathtub this was connected to.
Pipe has a 10' horizontal run before the elbow redirects water up.

Edit1:  Original setup with jacuzzi pump grounding.


texts: Rinse cycle problems on GE GLD4458R00CS dishwasher

texts:
I'm stumped with this problem and I'd love some help

I have a GE GLD4458R00CS dishwasher. It's about 7 years old. after noticing that our dishes haven't been coming out very clean, I have attempted to repair it, but after 2 days I can't locate the source of the problem. Here's what I know:

Basically I think the sprayer arms are just not spraying water at all. Not like a weak flow or something, just absolutely no water at all.

It is not dirty or clogged. I have disassembled, cleaned and re-installed practically every filter and hose on the entire machine, including the lower and middle sprayer arms, the fine mesh filter, the sump trap cover and sump filter, the drain hose, and the drain valve. Oh also the soap dispenser door definitely works as well.

It's not the door switch (I don't think) because it seems to operate normally. The tub will fill when the door is closed, and stop filling when you open the door mid cycle, then resume when you close the door again.

I don't think it is related to the float switch. I cleaned that part and did a few test runs and it seems to be operational. eg, the tub won't fill without it, but when it is in place the tub seems to fill appropriately.

My understanding of the wash cycle (normal, not heated dry) is that it should 1) rinse 2) drain 3) wash with soap, (the longest part of the cycle 4) drain 5) rinse again. What happens is that the tub fills, the machine is quiet for a period of time, and then it drains. this leads me to conclude that the water inlet valve is OK, and the main pump is OK. The whole cycle seems to take about the correct amount of time, which makes me think it's not the control board. but I just don't know what's left?!

My basic thoughts are that it could be:

the water inlet valve. I know I said I thought it was good, but perhaps it is faulty and underfilling the tub?

the main pump/motor. Are there multiple motors/pumps on this model? is there a reason it would pump in and drain but not rinse?

the control board. Some faulty circuit is not letting it correctly advance to the appropriate cycle

the float switch. because....?

I'm drowning in dishes here. Can someone let me know what dumb thing I haven't thought of and which (expensive) part I need to order to fix it?

thanks in advance


texts: Bath and sink connected on same pipe - bath gurgling when sink emptied

texts:
The bath and sink are connected to the same pipe as shown on schematic below - pipe has a gradient downwards towards the main pipe (yes, I have found some people fit it with an upward gradient!).

When I empty a bucket into the sink or empty a full sink, the bath starts gurgling or burping, sending water through the waste outlet into the bath. Note there are no blockages anywhere in the system.

Is there anything that can be done to prevent this without connecting all bath components directly to the main pipe?
Can multiple bathroom sinks, baths, showers etc. share a common drain pipe and if so, are there any rules?

UPDATED SCHEMATIC after posting to show toilet - this works fine and does not cause any problems to the sink or bath when flushing.


texts: Extending a Range 50a line Matching Wire?

texts: We are moving our range across the kitchen and need to extend the 50a 6/2 line which has an aluminum ground.  The only line the home store had was 6/2 wire with 10awg copper ground.  Can I use that or do I need to find identical wire?  I am planning to use a large junction box and have large wire nuts to join the wires.  Really don't want to replace the whole line.


texts: Painted double basin metal utility sink. Is this worth cleaning up?

texts:
The utility sink in my house is disgusting.  My wife wants me to pitch it and buy a new one.  I hate those cheap plastic sinks and I was curious so I jumped online so see what they were selling for. I found a single basin going for $300.

My question is simple.  is this worth cleaning up and keeping?  The paint is oil based, so it took 10 minutes to remove a few square inches.  It looks pretty nice underneath though.  I'm not certain what type of metal it is.  It doesn't seem to be rusting, so I was guessing bronze since it is quite dark.

Second question.  If it is worth keeping I'm thinking I need to chemically strip this.  I'm going to destroy my drill doing this. Any advice on how?


texts: How can I wire a recessed light from an existing remote controlled fan?

texts:
I have a remote controlled fan/light and I am trying to fish the red (hot) unused wire that became redundant with the remote to wire a neighboring can light- my questions are?

Can that unused wire be used? that will save me from wiring a new circuit and switch.
How do I connect the white wire from the can light back in the existing circuit of the fan?

I appreciate the expert advice.


texts:
When I tested the GFCI in my bathroom it won't reset. The same thing happened in my second bathroom. I took a look at the GFCI in the first bathroom and it looks like both the load and line are attached to the line receptacle. Is this normal? Would this be the reason that the outlet won't reset? I haven't look at the second bathroom yet.

Thanks in advance for your responses!


texts:
Good day everyone
I need some assistance with wiring a new light. All other wire outlets in the house have a standard brown (live), blue (neutral) and green (earth) cable apart from this one (see picture). This light fitting has a black, red, 2 x green and another grey wire that seems to be solid copper. The black and one green come from one part of the outlet, the red, grey and the other green from another part and the solid grey is seperate from the rest.
The light has a brown and blue wire and a connection for a earth cable. Please can someone tell me how to connect this light.


texts: Does code allow a main-lug-only panel connected to the meter lugs?

texts:
We have a single family home with 200 amp service. One main breaker inside the house.

We needed a 220v 40amp power supply outside.   Instead of running a circuit from our main breaker, he connected a Main lug only panel w/ 6 breaker spaces to the the source power within the meter can.  He pulled the meter to do this, and it IS connected on the correct side of the meter. Can the main lugs in the meter can be double tapped like this and still be within code?

Additional information:  there is no main disconnect for the main panel (or the new MLO panel) outside at the meter.  There is no shutoff breaker at the MLO panel, but I believe that is standard.

No permit was pulled but part of the terms were that all work would be done within NEC & local code.


texts: I would like to hook up a 240  garage heater with wire I had used for a old hot tub.  The wire has 4 wires ,red, black,  white and ground.  The hook up on the heater only has 2 hook ups for a black and white wires and a ground.  Can I hook it up with the hot tub wire and what would I do with the red wire. Thanks


texts:
I am new homeowner, so need some basic information. I have glass doors for closet in my kids room. The glass is cracked, and thus I want to fix it. I am wondering if this is something that I can do myself or do I need help. I am ok with not having glass anymore and can replace the doors completely (I guess home depot should have ready made ones). Need suggestions on how to fix it and if it is a small enough project to do myself.

Thanks


texts: Why is my bathroom sink leaking around the overflow seal?

texts: Can anyone tell me why I have water leaking out from under the actual sink? It’s coming from the overflow “Reservoir” area? The sink is draining completely fine otherwise. Just replaced the sink drain.


texts:
I am renting a house built in the 1940s. The mortar around the brick was cracked causing leaks. Someone had built a chimney around the outside of the original chimney. So outside it's twice the size of the original chimney. The outside structure sits on the roof instead of being supported by the chimney itself.

Is this OK to sit on the roof?


texts: earth ground for a pool at a divorced location

texts: i am putting a service to a deck area for a new pool and pump, there is an earth ground copper covered rod buried 10 feet which is 25 feet from the underground pipe i am splicing into for the pool power. can i splice the ground at that point essentially creating a 'y' between the subpanel in the garage and the breaker box i am installing at the pool and the earth ground in an effort to avoid rinning another 100 feet of solid copper ground wire from the pool breaker box all the way back to the earth ground rod. ty


texts: Cutting small tiles accurately and safely

texts: I am re-tiling my fireplace with a mixture of tile sizes. The smallest tile that needs cut is a triangle of dimension 35x35x50mm - all tiles are 10mm thick. I don't think it will be possible to cut such a tile in half manually (would be preferable)? I have an electric tile cutter - how should i feed such a small tile into the cutting disc in a stable linear manner without cutting my fingers off...?


texts: Why can't I drive this Tapcon into concrete?

texts:
I'm trying to drive a 2 1/2" long 3/16" diameter Tapcon into a 50 year-old concrete slab/subfloor to attach a new toilet flange.
The instructions on the case of Tapcons said to drill a hole in the concrete with a 5/32" bit. Did that with a Bosch Bulldog SDS; that part was easy.
Next the instructions say to drive the screw in with a #2 Phillips head bit. So I put a new #2 bit in my Bosch 1191VSR drill and switch it into hammer drill mode. But I can only get the screw about 1/2" in and then it just stops turning, and the bit comes out of the screw head and begins to strip the screw.
I feel like there's some technique I'm missing, or else my bits are defective. But I tried two different ones, and the same thing happened each time. Or maybe it's my drill? From stationary, I can not get the screw turning. I need to back it out a bit and start again. It feels like the torque is too low at slow speeds.
What am I doing wrong?


texts: What are the drawbacks of not attaching deck to house?

texts: I am planning on building a small deck on the side of my house where there is no door or window. The level of the deck is below the top of the basement, so I need to drill through the concrete for the ledger board. However, because there is no door, I am thinking about just building the deck as freestanding without attaching it to the house. One downside that I can think of is that the deck edge might drift relative to the house, making it look crooked. Is this is a problem? What are the downsides of making the deck freestanding?


texts:
I'm living close to the sea, so during the summer I'm bothered and attacked by many mosquitos and was wondering what kinds of repellents have been proven successful to get rid of these little critters. Are the candles any good?

Update:

Thanks for the answers provided so far. Maybe I should add that we have them indoor. One thing I don't wanna do is putting these mosquito nets in the windows, because they would destroy our beautiful sea view.

We sleep under a mosquito net, so that is perfect. But I'm looking for something for the 3-4 hours before going to sleep, sitting on the couch and reading.

Maybe I should also add, that I'm living in Spain, so if you recommend specific products they most likely are not available here. But I can try to find something similar.


texts: How do I get even water pressure from a bathtub mixer faucet?

texts: I just bought my house and noticed there is a problem in the bathroom tub faucet and that is: the valve starts from the cold toward hot and as it goes toward the hot the water pressure increases and by the way the way it is made I do not have any access behind the wall to check how it is made. Is there any way I can fix this and have control over both water temperature's pressure?


texts: Dealing with a broken toilet flange on PVC pipe

texts: So I'm about to tile my bathroom floor but the toilet flange broke and can't get it out I tried with a chisel and hammer but I think I got the pipe to so how can I fix this situation I got here


texts: Power to light then out to outlet and switch wiring question

texts: I have power coming into this can light and then to the switch, and then to another can in the room. I would like to have an outlet that comes on with the switch. I assume I would just pigtail with the wires that are running to the second light with my outlet wires? Just want to make sure this is correct.


texts: What is this subfloor, and do I need a wood underlayment for hardwood

texts:
First off, I have 3/4 inch of this subfloor:

It is on the first floor, and the area covers 700 sqft.

Question 1: What type of subfloor is this? I think it's OSB but I want to make sure because when I google particle board subfloor it looks like this in some pictures.

I got a measure from home depot. They said that I need 3/8 inch wood underlayment before I can install 1/2 inch solid bamboo flooring and that it would have to be glue-down.

The glue-down installation is 2.99/sqft plus $1.20 / sqft for the glue. The 3/8 inch wood underlayment is $1.56/sqft. Thats $5.75/sqft just for installation

It seems to me I should rather invest in real 3/4 inch solid hardwood and go with the nail down install $1.99/sqft, or go with engineered click bamboo and have it floated. (stranded bamboo cant be easily refinished so having solid vs engineered isnt a big deal)

Question 2: will I need a wood underlayment no matter what hardwood I choose and no matter what installation is used (float, glue, nail)? ( I know it depends on what manufacture recommends but in general)


texts: Gas Fireplace how to insulate for constant draft

texts:
We have a gas fireplace that the contractor did not insulate and causes a constant breeze through the bottom vent.  Would it be safe to line the bottom walls with mineral wool?

The air is continuous which will is both costly in the Winter and Summer.  I am posting in hopes to get contractors to help with the best solution.


texts: PEX instead of good ol'copper pipe for fresh water in residential house?

texts: New Construction.  Last time I built a house (2001) I used copper water lines through the foundation for eadh location. Now I am told by a plumber that's too old school.  They now use something called PEX where only one fresh water pipe enters the the house through the foundation and the rest is plumbed (hot/cold) through the walls.  Is this a modern solution to weather freezing water lines?  Can I assume it's more expensive?


texts: Portable air conditioner exhaust through door

texts: Dryer & washer outside in a room w/out access to window. Can portable air conditioner be vented/hose used through door when needed?


texts: Pouring a concrete slab porch onto corrugated metal with no cross support

texts: We are building a front porch that is approximately 8 feet off the ground. Our builder laid a piece of corrugated steel down that he supported on the front with the center block wall and brick and a supported on the rear by a 2x10 board mounted to the floor joices by screws or nails.  There are no other reinforcements at all. We asked if the builder was going to put steel cross members to support the weight of the concrete is the going to be okay?


texts: What would cause a led light to turn off after one second?

texts:
I have an older house for number of years. I got tired of the old kitchen light and decided to replace it with led light. I bought a kitchen led light that is oval in shape and takes two 13 inches circular bulbs. After installing I turned on the switch to on position the light comes on but it only light up for one second.  I turned off the switch and turned back on after ten minutes.  The light come back on for a second and turned back off the switch is still on postion. What is the problem can i fix it by myself?
     Thanks
         Ben.


texts:
I'm installing a speaker wall bracket (Q Acoustics 2000WB) onto drywall. It has five mounting holes.
Photo from https://pricespy.co.uk/product.php?g=603554

I'm running into some wood immediately after drilling through drywall where I would expect there to be a void. The building was built in 2014. More detail below, but here are my questions:

1) Is it okay to keep drilling somewhat to see how far deep this goes and what happens? I probably already went deeper with the first anchor (see below), but I'm not positive.

2) What could this be?

3) Can I just use wood screws instead of anchors here?

Thank you for your help.

Edit: I've finished installing the bracket using one large anchor and four smaller ones. I'm still not sure what the wood is. My very rough estimate is that it's 0.2" thick. Commenters have made plausible suggestions, including that because this is a unit-to-unit wall, it could be for fire containment, security, or sound insulation.

Long-winded background and details.

I used a magnetic stud finder and chose a spot about 4" to the right of a stud because the bracket is too wide to attach entirely to a stud.

I bought these E-Z Ancor drywall anchors  which say they don't need drilling, but I wasn't able to get them any further than the half way point before bringing out the drill. I drilled increasingly wider holes within the tapered hole that had already been formed by screwing the anchor in partially, each time allowing the anchor to screw in a little further until it was able to be flush with the wall.

I decided to use that anchor for the top center hole and find something smaller and hopefully simpler for the other four. These smaller anchors do require drilling. I was able to drill through the drywall pretty easily, but then I hit some resistance, seemingly right around 1/2" in. I tried drilling one of the diagonal holes which is about 4.25" up and 1.75" to the right. Same thing. I drilled a little further into this one and got some sawdust on the drill. I stopped at this point because I live in a shared rental, so I don't want to cause damage or irritate my neighbors.

So there's wood behind this area of drywall and I'm not sure why. I was thinking it could be a fire block, but that wouldn't continue for nearly 4" of height, right? Maybe it's something to do with a previous occupant patching up from a TV mount or similar, given that it's one of the two obvious places in the unit to put a TV.

I'm pretty sure the first anchor installation ran into the same wood but I didn't notice it because the difficulty screwing it in began right where the wider thread began to enter the drywall. I thought I had to drill the hole for that one because of some vague made up idea about the shape of the anchor, because there wouldn't possibly be solid wood there, would there? (no pun intended). The drill got through the resistance at a pretty minimal depth though, seemingly 1/2".

My question is similar to
"How can I avoid hitting wood when cutting through drywall?" except I'm pretty sure it's not a previous owner attaching drywall to a wood-paneled wall given that this is a rental unit that is only 4 years old.
and


texts: I'm trying to select a robotic vacuum that will cleanup my apartment on daily basis (3 cats is a lot :) ). Which one should I try? I was thinking about iRobot but with no mapping mechanism they seem rather dumb for me.


texts: What is the proper way to wire a light switch,fan switch and receptacle in one box?

texts: I would like to see a wiring diagram on how to wire two switches and a receptacle in one box with a single line feed, three wires.


texts: Whats the best way to hide or rather manage cables? Like for instance, I had setup some surveillance cameras which are wired.


texts: Surface-mounted Electric Circuit (conduit) - do I need a junction box

texts:
I'm planning to add outlets to my garage for a workshop area - my intention is to remove a GFCI outlet in the wall (only outlet in the garage) and replace it with a surface-mounted (conduit) circuit with:
1) three unswitched outlets (all GFCI or downstream from a GFCI)
2) two switched GFCI outlets (one for an overhead light; another battery chargers)
My idea for the circuit is:

The box marked "junction box" is the location of the existing GFCI outlet.

My question is for the 3-gang box I currently have marked as containing two switches and a GFCI outlet. That outlet and the outlet above it would be the switched outlets.

Should I have a separate junction box that sends current to the lower outlets and then to the 3-gang box and downstream outlets, or can the 3-gang box also distribute current to those outlets? If I wire the 3-gang box as planned, it would be wired as:

That box would require pigtails with four wires.

The alternative I see is to put a junction box in place of the 3-gang box, then have a 3-gang box with the same planned switches and outlets, but the pigtails would only be three wires.

My instinct is to use a separate junction box to split the circuit, then have the 3-gang box with 3-wire pigtails. Can anybody provide any advice on this?


texts: How can I get rid of rust from painted metal mesh garden furniture

texts: Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the rust from this kettler garden furniture? I have used brillo pads and various methods which seems to remove the rust on the top surface but because it's mesh I can't seem to find a good way to get in between.


texts:
I'm thinking of building a Japanese style room with Tatami mats in my new flat. Now I strongly suspect that this is not as easy as simply buying mats, having them delivered so I don't have to carry them 20 floors up, and placing them on the floor, but I couldn't easily find a tutorial either.

Do I need to place something below the mats to provide air flow, or is that a bad idea?
Are there common mistakes?
Is there a noticeable difference between "standard" and "premium" mats?
Is there an English language tutorial showing correct procedure that I may have overlooked.

I plan to circumfence the room with bookshelves, and the mats would ideally be flush with them.


texts: How should I prepare this compression fit copper tube for use again?

texts:
(Apologies in advance folks - I'm new to compression fit connections so I suspect this is an obvious question).

I'm preparing to reconnect an old copper tube to my water supply line and refrigerator for the ice maker. Here's what I see at the end that's near my sink:

The key point that concerns me is that there's no compression nut at all and the compression ring/olive is on there pretty good.  I'm not sure how this could have happened but oh well.

My current plan of attack is:

1) Cut off the old compression ring section.

2) Lightly clean the end to ensure there isn't any dirt and debris.

3) Place the compression NUT on first (which seems to come with most water supply valves of appropriate size.

4) Please the compression RING on second.

5) Place the tube in the compression seat of the shutoff valve.

6) Tighten the nut.

Is it really that simple or am I missing something?

I'm confused on a few things:

What actually tightens the ring seal to the tubing? Is that done when I'm tightening the nut?  Or do I need to apply some sort of glue around the base?
Do I need to wrap anything in plumbers tape?
How far up the tubing should the ring/olive be? In the old piece, it looks like it was placed about 3/8" to 1/4" up but I'm not sure if that's recommended or not.