texts: Light wiring - wires snapped when disassembling

texts:
I was taking down a light to replace it for a newer one for my wife. The wires coming out of the ceiling are ancient and they snapped as I pulled down the housing (incredibly brittle). Now I do not know which one was where.

I thought that I had it correctly re-wired, but now I cannot get the light to turn on. The pictures of the fixture are wired how I think it should be. Are they correct?

I re-attached the cables where I thought they should go under the assumption that:

Brown/Red = Live
Black = Neutral

I labelled in red where I attached the cables from the light to the fitting.

The light I want to attach:

The fitting I am attaching to:


texts: How to install security cameras on ceilings?

texts:
I would like to know how to install or mount a camera on the bottom face of this hollow black box above the shop door. The word "Alabsh" is written on the black box as shown in image.

The bottom face of the box is above me so I would consider this as my ceiling. The ceiling is usually made of wood or metal. I know I should use a driller but what if the hole is larger than the screw/bolt?
Another question is, I can't reach the other inner side of the ceiling to use a nut. What is the alternative of using a nut?
Should I use the thing in the following image instead of the nut? But I feel like when press by the screw/bolt upward, this plastic thing will go inside the black box because it is hallow and I won't be able to get it back again. What's the best method to do it?


texts: I have a customer that wants to install a single phase 120/208v coffee brewer to a 3 phase panel. Can this be done safely? The unit uses 220v for heating elements and 120v for control board.


texts: Knowing where to drill holes in steel plate?

texts:
I have a concrete floor and I made two holes to bolt a 1/4"-thick steel plate. The problem is that the steel plates haven't been drilled yet.

How can I determine where the holes will be drilled in the steel plates so they match the holes in the concrete?


texts: How do I remove this stuck faucet valve cartridge?

texts:
It's still in the casing, as I didn't want to remove the whole faucet.  I tried lots of WD-40 and trying to tighten a little and then loosen. Someone told me to use a hair-dryer on it to heat it up a little.  The thing just won't budge. I think I may have ruined the "nut."  I'm obviously an amateur, but I don't want to be a failure.

Click for full size image


texts:
I have thought about that if I am ever going to build a single floor house this is what I would do. I would make the whole roof out of glass (like a greenhouse). This glass roof would be made out of double glass with as much as 20 cm between the two. In this space I imagine that there would be a very dark curtain, which would stop sunlight in the case where the temperature inside the house gets too high (I am living in Scandinavia so this would just be the case for a few months per year). It would be possible to control the ventilation in the space between the glasses by opening sections of the roof.

The positive effects of this would be:

Watching the stars from bed at night
Feeling like one is outside the whole day if the curtains are away
Less need for lighting

A part of the reason for doing this is that light is a precious thing in Scandinavia during the winter.

What am I missing here? Why have I never heard about such a house (bad research?)?


texts:
Is it required for all walls to have blocking in them. The builder put blocking in the basement but the other two floors I have not seen any.  Reason why I ask is, the hallway to my garage which isn’t finish. I can see at least two 2x4 in the wall twisting.
Ben


texts: Wiring garage ceiling light receptacle to gfci outlet

texts:
Hi
I’m new to this site and new to the home improvement game so please take it easy if I am repeating others questions. So I’m a first time homebuyer and, currently, renovating my garage. I went to replace the ceiling light receptacle and the outlet that is connected to it but having trouble making sure it’s correct. I replaced the light with the same that was on it before ( I wished I had changed it because I had these outlets) and I changed the outlet to a gfci. After installing both and checking with the tester... this is what came up; the light - open neutral, the outlet - open ground. I’m aware the outlet might say that but don’t know if the lights ok. I’m near chicago if it matters, and the outlet and light look like they are connected to my kitchen outlets and lights. If there’s more info needed let me know, because I really don’t know more info to give right now. Thanks for the help.


texts: I can only water lawn by manually opening the bleed screw

texts:
My sprinklers in one zone won't  go on unless I open the bleed screw. I replaced the whole valve and yet still, in that one zone, I can only water the lawn by opening the bleed screw instead of it going on automatically like it is supposed to.

What do I do??


texts: Can we set up 2 water pumps such that they never run simultaneously?

texts:
We are planning to install 2 water pumps, with 2 overhead tanks. Water outflow of these tanks will be different,  so the pumps will mostly run at different times. Pumps are triggered based on water level controllers in the tanks. There could be a time when both may start simultaneously or one may start when the other is still running.  We want to avoid this (because we want the output of both pumps to go through one single sand filter, but we don't want water to mix).
Is there a way to ensure the pumps never run together?


texts: Toilet not flushing properly because flapper is closing too soon

texts: I installed a new flapper and it doesn't stay open long enough. The chain is short to the point not much left to shorten. It was the proper flapper, but just does not stay open long enough unless I hold the handle down. When held down, it flushes just fine. I replaced flapper because old one was leaking and causing run on.


texts: Can two light fixture switches share a neutral?

texts:
I have two porch lanterns ( sgl pole sw #1) and one foyer ceiling light (slg pole sw #2) in an existing two gang box, but I'm not sure how to use some existing old black pipes for my new wiring.

One porch fixture has a direct pipe from the box, so it easily gets its own black and white. But the other porch light (which I want to switch together with the first)...its pipe is branched off the foyer light's electrical box.  Can my second porch light share the foyer light's neutral, or should I bring it its own neutral ? I do already have the second light's hot coming through the foyer box.


texts: Can I remove blocking to level floor and sister this joist?

texts:
I'm replacing hardwood flooring but the subfloor isn't flat. In the area above this picture, I can slide two fingers under a 6 foot framing level that's laying perpendicular to the joists. That spot, where the sag is the worst (circled in red). To level the floor, I'm anticipating buying a temporary screwjack to raise the offending joist about a half to 3/4 of an inch, then sistering it across the entire span, then removing the screwjack. As you can see the staggered blocking (yellow arrow) interferes along the span, and there is another block on the opposite side. Can I simply remove these blockings?

I'm also interested in alternative ideas for fixing the sag. I've read of shimming with roofing shingles but that strikes me as adding quite a lot of weight.


texts:
I have recently moved into a new apartment and I have rewired a couple of phone sockets as the had clearly been messed with before. While decorating I removed a blanking plate in the living room and found phone wires behind. I believe this might have been an optional upgrade when the flat was built, but they obviously wired them anyway and just put the socket on.

Behind this plate are 2 wires. One has a white sheath and looks like all the others in the flat. The other has a grey sheath and is different. As far as I can tell this is the last socket in the chain.

Where could the grey one go?


texts: What are the differences between trowels for concrete and plaster? Are they interchangeable?

texts:
I have some paving steps to lay in concrete, and will buy a trowel for smoothing them off.
There's an enormous range of trowels/floats available, with almost identical ones for plastering and for concrete laying.   Can I use one trowel for both purposes?
General example:

280mm Gold Stainless Steel Pre-Worn Plaster Trowel $43

305mm Gold Stainless Steel Pre-Worn Concrete Trowel $40
This is not a direct product comparison, its a more-general "what's the difference?" question.  I see the Plaster one is 25mm shorter, but has a longer "backbone" compared to the Concrete one, which has more "fore and aft deck" (?)  exposed before the handle starts.
This is purely about rectangular floats, or smoothing trowels.   Not pointing or mortering, and not gardening/weeding.   What would stop me using the same tool for both jobs ?


texts: Need to repaint my exterior, a couple of question with painting

texts:
My exterior need a re-painting, I have got a couple of question here:

How do I find a paint that matches my exterior? Using naked eye is bit unreliable.
Do I need to scratch the old paint off before re-applying new one?


texts: Where can I find estimates for BTU , EER or COP of very old air conditioners? (from the 1990's)

texts:
We have a very old (20-25 years old) window ac unit in the living room and I'm trying to figure out how efficient it is. I can't find out the model number or any statistics about it. The manufacturer website doesn't have any info about old models either.

I can measure the KWh consumption, but that won't be of any use without a way to figure out its BTU. Any creative suggestions on how I can measure that?

Alternatively, just some historical data on window ac's from that time period, like their average COP, would be really helpful.


texts: Diagnosing water / wet spot in the attic

texts:
I noticed a wet spot where the ceiling meets one of the walls in my garage. When I went into the attic, I noticed the wet spot under the insulation as shown in the images below. The insulation is wet to the touch near the spot and appears to be taking water in from up and behind where it's tucked in. I reached my fingers up in there and definitely felt water.

I'm guessing it's a roof leak since it only happens during hard rains (here in Florida). I went up on the roof and felt around, but felt like I was searching for a needle as there was nothing immediately obvious.

Not really sure what to do other than just call an expert. Any advice? Thanks.


texts:
I have a 1960's house.  I am renovating a bathroom, removing bathtub and putting in  shower.  I will be using Schluter Kerdi-Shower for conversion.

I would like to know what parts of that iron drain I need to replace with which PVC parts.


texts: Is this type of curtain track solid enough for children?

texts:
I'm considering purchasing this plastic curtain track. However I am concerned regarding the robustness of the hooks which attach the track to the wall. These look a bit like this one:

But what if my daughter plays with the curtain? Will it not easily break?


texts: Can I hang a countertop microwave oven under a cabinet with custom hardware?

texts:
I want to mount a microwave under a cabinet and I have selected the GE model that will work (the cabinet is quite shallow, so the depth was important).
The problem is that GE produces two nearly identical microwaves: JEM3072SHSS and JES1072SHSS, the difference is that the JEM model says it has an "optional hanging kit available" and the JES model does not.
The JEM model is $70 more at retail than the JES model, plus I'd have to buy the hanging kit separately, and it is also pricey ($50+ for basically, some hardware), so obviously, I'd prefer to go with the other model that is just under $100. The JES model also has holes on top (according to the product picture).
My questions:

Can't I just make my own template and attach the microwave to the cabinet with heavy duty machine screws, washers and nuts that I purchase myself?
If that is indeed the case, wouldn't the head of the bolt have to go on the inside of the microwave and come out the top to be screwed into the underside of the cabinet?

I thought you weren't supposed to put metal in a microwave, so how do these mounting kits get away with that issue? Will that be an issue for me if I carry out the above plan and DIY my own "mounting kit"?


texts: What is an alternative to a cement truck that would allow more working time?

texts:
I'd like to know if there is an alternative to a cement truck.
I'm planning to build a sports court which requires me to build a concrete foundation.

I asked the cement company and they said the truck can stay max. up to 2 hours at my place. That's not enough time for me since I don't have any help.

I'm going to need roughly 10 cubic yards of concrete. When I worked in the UK, they used silos. But it was meant for commercial projects only so I'm not sure if they have something for residentials too now here in Ohio, USA.

Small cement silo 5 cubic yards left in my backyard for a day would be great. This way I could do it at my own pace.


texts:
Does anyone have an idea what this product might be?

It was found it on some hired equipment, used as a cable tie / cable tidy. It is reversible and each side will stick to itself, unlike velcro.

Maybe cable tie was not its intended use?

It looks like it comes in a roll, and so could be cut to a required size.

After extensive searching we have failed to find this product, but we'd really like to purchase some.


texts: How to build watertight containers that keep water out even if it is fully submerged?

texts:
Examples of appliances I want to protect are: monitors, computers, and printers.
I have looked everywhere and I cannot find a solution where I can simply buy a box in the market. These are often times very small and will not fit the appliances I need to be protected.
Assumption is that the container will be used for home use in case there is a great flood. So the water pressure isn't likely to be too strong--not like submarines where they dive down to deep altitudes.
I can say that a submarine is a massive watertight container that can allow many people and equipment to live inside it. So, creating a watertight container should be possible with similar concepts. I wonder what materials and techniques I should look into to build one myself.


texts: So I have an AC unit outside my room onto which a whole bunch of water falls from straight from the gutter. Will this ruin the unit? Also, it makes A LOT of noise. What would be the best way to dampen that?


texts: What's this white crust in my kitchen pipe threads?

texts: I had to change the kitchen sink P-trap (J pipe and tailpiece) and there's hard white crusty stuff in the threads that's making it difficult to screw on the new ring nut connectors. The old parts had been on the sink drain and wall elbow for 25 years or more and had corroded. The rings broke when I turned them. I'm not sure if the white stuff is corrosion, minerals or what. I removed some of it from the threads [picture of threads with white crust]carefully using the tip of a knife and a wire bristle brush, but wonder if something else would work better.


texts:
Floor plumbing pipe too far away from the wall for vanity.

I do not want to cut a hole into the vanity shelves to accommodate this discrepancy because the shelves are already shallow with limited storage.
Is it possible to cut the floor plumbing pipe short and reroute it so that it is closer to the wall using flexible connectors?
Will this impede the flow of water?

I cannot change the original position of the hole.

Please see attached picture.


texts:
So up in the attic guest room of our century home, there’s a baseboard electrical outlet that looks like a light socket (see picture below).  I’m not sure what exactly to call it, and various Google searches don’t turn up anything like it (probably because I don’t know what it’s called).  When we moved in, it had one of those screw-in adapters like people screw into actual light sockets; I removed that immediately.

I very much want to replace the outlet with something from this millennium, but I admit to being a little wary.  I’ve successfully replaced old two-prong outlets with GFCIs before, but I’m not sure if this is likely to be significantly different.  I do expect 15A knob-and-tube wiring, and I’m not expecting a ground wire, but I’m wondering if there’s anything else I should be ready for before I start in.  Or if this is one of those “oh crap, dude, don’t go anywhere near that thing without a certified electrician with thirty years of experience!” situations.

What say you, DIYstack?

EDITED TO FOLLOW UP: here are some pictures of the wiring and units.  First, the wiring after I disconnected the receptacle and unstrung the leads from the gang box.

The gang box itself is solid metal, stamped “STEEL CITY” in the back.  The receptacle unit’s body appears to be porcelain, both in look and feel and because it chipped pretty easily when my screwdriver bit slipped off a screw.  Here are the front and back.

The manufacturer appears to have been Bryant, as per the stamp on the upper left corner and also the fancy engraving on the contact tongue in the back of the socket itself.  If I’m not mistaken, that lower right corner is stamped “660W250V”.

I tried just splicing the two wires together, both with a Wago lever splice and a traditional twist-cap splice, and in both cases got an instant circuit-trip as soon as I closed the breaker switch.  So I reconnected the receptacle unit and that went fine; it’s powered to the proper levels and no circuit tripping happens.

I was planning to replace this myself with either a (non-grounded) GFCI or possibly a non-GFCI three-prong outlet, of which I have a few lying around, but now it feels like that’s outside my competence zone and I should bring in a licensed electrician.  Thoughts?


texts:
looking to see if it's feasible to repair a baseball sized hole in a hollow wooden door in a way that would allow a towel hook to be drilled onto it.
I've seen many guides for hollow door repair that follow the general order of stuffing newspapers, filling with insulation foam, covering with bondo/epoxy, then spackling paste before painting. Would this kind of repair be appropriate to then hang a hook attached with screws?
If not, what would be a better idea? Thank you for your time


texts:
I'm in the UK and trying to install a Nest Thermostat & Heatlink at home to control my hot-water and central heating and I'm having a few issues working out how my existing setup works so I can swap it out.

My heating controller is currently wired as the below which does not seem to match any of the examples in Nests installation guide.

My temperature thermostat has the below connections:

Earth's excluded from diagrams for clarity

From this I believe the Multicore 2 goes to there thermostat but I'm not 100% sure (I plan to bell this out this weekend with my multimeter). If it is I'm not sure why it would only have 2 wires connectioned at the controller end (Red of Multicore 2 goes nowhere)

I have a Conventional Boiler, which looking at the Nest Installation Guide https://nest.com/support/images/misc-nest-thermostat-eu/gen3-install/3rd-gen-Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Install-Guide-UK.pdf I belive must be a S-Plan or a Y-Plan.

Can anyone offer any guidance on how I figure this out? I'm more used to industrial cabinet wiring where everything is labeled so I'm finding this a wee bit tricky.

First time posting to this stack so please let me know if theres any info I've missed.


texts: Material for short-term sealing of cement patches in EPDM roof?

texts:
I recently had a contractor install solar panels on my EPDM rubber roof, and they cut some fairly large square holes to pour concrete and attach bolts for the rails (long story). The problem is that they didn't do anything to properly seal over the concrete (or seal the concrete to the rubber), so now I have square cement patches in my roof, some of which are slightly below the level of the rubber:

I'm having trouble getting a roofer out in any reasonable amount of time and I'm supposed to go out of town this weekend, so I was hoping to do some sort of temporary fix. A neighbor suggested using Flex Seal Liquid, which says on the can that works on EPDM, but I'm somewhat concerned about whether a proper fix would be possible after that. There's a product called Liquid Rubber that seems perfect (you can make a new EPDM roof out of it so presumably it will hold up as a patch), but the shipping speed doesn't seem particularly fast.

Is Flex Seal Liquid fine for this? Should I just caulk it? Is there a particular kind of caulk I should use, or would basically any roofing caulk work (and be easy to remove later when doing a better fix).

Note: Flex Seal the spray is definitely bad for this (contains petroleum) but Flex Seal Liquid says on the can that it can be used on EPDM, and it doesn't seem to contain petroleum, but I have no idea how safe it is to use octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane on EPDM..


texts: Shower head pipe sounds like the toilet is running

texts:
You know the sound it makes that low running noise when your toilet tank is filling after you flush it?

I'm hearing that constant sound coming from the pipe holding my shower head.

I turned off the air conditioner, hot water heater and still hear it.

It never stops and started a few days ago.

I have no idea what to do next for troubleshooting to figure out what the problem could be.


texts: What's the difference between Casing and Trim?

texts: I was recently told that the previous owners of our house used casing instead of the trim throughout the house. What is the difference between window casing and trim? Are there are got-yas that I need to be aware of because one was used and not the other?


texts:
Two members of our household are prone for allergies. For quite some time we are trying to make the house as allergy proof as possibile. Our cat found a new house with good friends. All carpentry was removed, and so are our mattresses which are replaced by allergy-proof ones.

All these efforts had an effect, but we think that there are still allergens floating around.
Is there a protocol to work through to identify most, if not all, potential allergens spots in your house?


texts:
I want to replace some power outlets in my condo with ones that have built-in USB ports. The condo was built in 2008.

My thinking is I can simply turn off the breaker for those outlets and get to work. But then I thought... what if those outlets are mis-wired? Should I use an outlet tester?

What is the best way to be safe when replacing power outlets?


texts: What under-eaves vents can I use to maximize attic airflow and minimize insect infiltration?

texts:
I live in Seattle. It doesn't snow here often. Winters are cold, but temps do not dip below 32 for long periods of time very often.

I live in a small, one-level 950 sq. ft. house built in the 1950s. It does not have air conditioning.

I don't want to get air conditioning, but I do want my house to be more pleasant temperature-wise during the summer, so I'm trying to figure out how to ventilate my attic.

Right now there are two very small, screened vents under the eaves of my house. There are attic vents on the top of the roof, but none under the eaves. I understand this is a problem, and I've read a bit online that you have to have at least the same amount of airflow capacity at the top of the roof as you do under the eaves, and that the total airflow capacity at the top needs to be X amount based on the square footage. So I kind of get that.

I also know that vents have a net airflow capacity rating.

My problem is that I don't want to put in vents that bees and wasps can get into. Seems like every year they're in something new -- last year I had to get a new nest out of the wall, and before that, it was in the wooden steps in my front yard.

Makers of vents must not think that insects exist because when I look for under-eave vents at Home Depot, they're the grate kind with 1/4 inch gaps between metal slats. No bueno. So what under-eaves vents can I use to maximize airflow and minimize insect infiltration?

According to my calculations based off this site, for my 1000 sq ft. attic, I need a total vent area of 6.6 sq. feet, and a soffit vent area of 3.33 sq. ft.

Run of the mill vents like this one provide 92 sq. in. of vent area. This is .63 ft, which means I'd need 5 of them. But if I put netting in there, I'd likely need more. I'm asking if I put netting in there, how many more vents do I have to have?


texts: What is the maximum current a 13Amp twin wall socket can handle?

texts: In my country (Ghana, West Africa; however we do follow the UK regulations) a domestic wall receptacle is rated for 13 Amps. If I had a twin wall receptacle rated 13 Amps does it mean that both outlets can handle 13 Amps or the combined amperage of the outlets add up to 13 Amps?


texts: Prefab houses seem to cost more than you would suspect

texts:
I was reading the catalog of Blu Homes, a prefab housing company. They advertise their prices as being "20% lower" than comparable custom house prices. Their homes typically are abound $275 per square foot.

I guess I don't understand this, because you can custom build a pretty nice house for $275 per square foot. I would have expected a factory-built house to be a lot cheaper than having a whole bunch of tradesmen come and build a custom home.

What am I missing here? Why does the prefab cost as much as a custom house?


texts: Connecting a digital timer with 4 wires in a box with only three wire, white, black, and ground

texts:
I installed a digital timer in a box that previously contained a switch to an outside porch light.  The box has only a white, black, and ground wire.  The white wire in the box is hot, not the black, as I had thought it should be.

I couldn't get the timer to work until I connected the timer's black wire to the box's white wire, the timer's red wire to the box's black wire, and the timer's white wire to the box's ground wire, along with the box's green wire to the box's bare wire.

Is this dangerous?  The timer is working just fine, as described.


texts: Where can I find central heating system with radiators?

texts: Coming from Europe, I am used to radiator heating systems and thinking about putting one into a fixer-upper house I intend to buy. Where can I find such a system in the North-American market?


texts:
We had our bathroom refitted a couple of years ago, which required all the waste water piping around the house to be refitted. One of the joins in the pipe carrying all the waste water away from the bathroom was leaky - the plumber applied some kind of paste to fix it.

I have no idea what was used. Whatever it was, the paste has not weathered well and has now essentially turned to powder and fallen away. The leak has returned with a vengeance.

In hopes of stopping the leak I have applied several layers of copious amounts of silicone, of a type that cures when wet. While it has dried successfully, it's only slightly reduced the amount of water in the leak.

I'm not sure why this is: I assume that because it's much thicker and stickier than ordinary silicone, it's not able to completely plug gaps quite as effectively. The surface never dries out - there is a constant drip - which may stop it from forming an effective seal.

What else can I do/try to stop this leak?


texts: Should hot water pressure be reduced after hot water is used?

texts:
I'm noticing reduced hot water pressure (on all faucets/shower) after significant hot water use (2 long showers, 2 loads of HE (High Efficiency) laundry, and using a sink for about 5 minutes).  Cold water pressure is normal.

Is this hot water reduced pressure normal, or indicative of a problem?

Note that this reduced hot water pressure is a new thing.  It was not an issue in the past.

The water heater is a Rheem natural gas tank-type storage water heater, with a capacity of 40 gallons.

UPDATE #1: I visually inspected the exterior of the water heater, and there are no visual defects.  There is no water around it, either.

UPDATE #2: When I looked at the water heater, it has not two, but three pipes attached to the top.  I found this QA, but I'm not sure if the answer applies.  One of the three pipes is not insulated, so I'll assume that's the cold water intake.  Both of the other pipes have insulation on them, so I'm guessing hot water is coming out of them.  But I don't know why there are two of those pipes.  There is no solar (I wish), reservoir, or instant-on hot water.  If it helps, the hot water heater is a Rheem PowerVent 2.

UPDATE #3: I'm hoping (and thinking) this is irrelevant, but I figure the more information I include, the better you can help me.  When I visually inspected the exterior of the water heater, I heard what I thought was a dripping sound that began about 10 seconds after the unit turned on.  I diligently searched for water, but I found none.  If my ears were working correctly, it seemed that the sound was coming from the horizontal CO vent pipe that leads outside.  I don't recall it ever making such a sound, but I never stood around and listened so intently.  I don't know if this means anything, and I don't want to divert attention to a red herring, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

UPDATE #4:  The hot water pressure has been different since this event took place.

Sometimes, it is normal: I can put any faucet on full-hot and the water comes out with normal strong force.
Other times it starts off with a strong force and then, after running for 5-10 seconds, the pressure decreases to about 30%.  It then stays at that pressure while I let it run.  If I turn off the sink, and then turn it back on, the same thing happens (full pressure followed by a reduction in pressure).

Note that these things happen regardless of which faucet I use, and do not seem to be dependent on water use before the test.


texts: What's the easiest way for me to cut thin metal?

texts:
Will someone at Home Depot or Lowe's be able to cut this for me? If not, what tool should I buy and use?

Edit

Thanks for all the help! I ended up buying a Dremel. I went through 6 cut-off wheels in order to finish all my cuts. I was customizing an IKEA drawer to fit under my smaller IKEA table. Here is one of my noob cuts:

And here is the finished product:


texts: In-Cabinet (sink base) electrical box - Metal or Plastic?

texts:
I'm planning on putting an electrical box in my sink base with a split outlet, one for the dishwasher, the other for the garbage disposal.  I was thinking of running 12/3 MC from the wall gangbox (metal box + metal cover with knockout) to another metal box in the sink base.  Is this a legitimate / normal practice?

I've seen some solid plastic outdoor gangboxes that look like they'd be more appropriate under a sink but then I would have to run non-metallic cable.

Thanks


texts: In my house I have various rooms where the builder installed a light switch which only activates (1) half/switched outlet.  The problem is, the outlet they chose in most instances was stupid / non-ideal.  I've done some electrical work (installed dimmer switches, timers for porch lights, etc), but by no means do I know how things are wired off the top of my head.  Is it possible for me to change which outlets are turned on by the switch? Are all outlets potential or did they just run the circuit from the switch to that one outlet? What do I need to look for?


texts: Should I add any additives when mixing Bifen IT

texts: Following the suggestion here, I did a little searching and found two options for bug spray: an off the shelf product or DIY. In terms of per ounce active ingredients, the off the shelf solution is about ~10 times more expensive. I'm wondering if I go the DIY route, are there any additives I should add to increase the retention/longevity of the active ingredients in the perimeter barrier, like surfactants and ammonium sulfate for glyphosate?


texts: I am trying to replace a dimmer switch with a standard on off switch. The current dimmer has 2 black wires connected to it but no ground. Do I just unscrew the black wires, remove dimmer, and attach the same black wires back to the new switch?


texts: Can I replace upgrade main breaker without changing wiring? (within panel limit)

texts: I currently have a 30A main breaker in my panel for the workshop which is starting to give me grief, I've checked the panel and it's a 125A panel that says it's nominal output current is 63A (not sure why the input and out are different, anyway my question is can I replace the 30A breaker with a 63A breaker and not have to worry about any rewiring?


texts: What is the best way to fill in the holes in aluminum siding?

texts:
In about 2 weeks I'm doing a little cathartic destruction of a deck on the back of my house. The deck came with the house and has suffered YEARS of neglect, it's beyond repair, built incorrectly, and looks awful so OUT it goes !!

My problem is: Whoever built the deck bolted a 2x6 into the siding of the house to act as a joist for the floorboards. When I remove the 2x6 I'll have a few bolt sized holes in my siding. Winter is fast approaching and the last thing I need is snow getting into the holes, melting, refreezing and causing untold havoc on the interior.

My question is: What is the best way to fill in the holes in the Aluminum siding? I don't have any spare siding laying around so I can't replace the damaged pieces so I need to plug them somehow.


texts: Can I change an outdoor outlet from a standard plug in to a 30amp RV plug simply by changing the plug type & changing the breaker to 30 amp?


texts: Space heater efficiency and light bulb efficiency in winter

texts:
New here, so apologies for the basic question.

My undergraduate-level physics understanding of efficiency is it is the % of energy input that is turned into useful work as opposed to heat. At the same time, I've been told that free-standing space heaters waste energy because they are "inefficient". How can something that is designed to produce heat be considered inefficient?

Similarly, is there any reason to care about the efficiency light bulbs if I  live in a climate where it is always cold outside and both heat and light are desirable things for a light bulb to produce?


texts: Why isn't the switch working to turn off my ceiling lamp after I replaced a fan w/light?

texts:
I have properly connected the new ceiling lamp. Once I turn the breaker on again, the lamp turns on immediately. There is a double switch on the wall. One used to turn on a standing lamp on the corner and the other one was used to turn on the ceiling fan with a light I had there before but now the switch for the fan/light seems not to work to turn the light on or off: the light remains on at all times.

What is wrong and how do I fix it?


texts:
I've tried so many different kerf style weatherstrip, magnetic and foam clad.
Even a fridge style magnetic. The fridge style comes off each time u open the door.
All the others leave a gap on the door lock side.
5 year old house.  Use to be ok  could it be that the frame warped. How can I fix this?


texts: Refridgerator evaporator not cooling enough to cool fridge

texts: I think it's called the evaporator/cooling element, the coils inside the refrigerator where the r134a gas passes through cooling it. About a week ago our refrigerator stopped working and I found what I thought to be the problem, there was corrosion on the condenser tubes on the bottom of the fridge allowing all the r134a gas to leak out (likely due to dressing spilling repeatedly in the fridge and leaking onto them). I went in and replaced the corroded sections of tubing, and then added a valve onto the tubing so that I could pump more r134a gas back into the system. After bringing the pressure up to slightly less than 10 psi (got this figure from the internet) by adding r134a the cooling element is pretty cold, but not near as cold as it should be. I'm thinking I may have gone wrong in the way I added the r134a, I've seen online where people vacuum all the air out before adding the refrigerant, which I did not do since I do not own a vacuum pump. This will be my next step, but I figured I would ask here since I don't know much about these things and vacuum pumps are fairly expensive


texts:
I am installing my OTR microwave. The venting looks like it will definitely not align (thanks HVAC guy).
In any case, can I simply use flexible venting to connect the microwave flange to the roof venting?
Also, I need to extend the boot to allow for the damper to close (nobody does this on the YouTube videos). Do I need to create this, or can this be found in stores? I could not find anything like it a Home Depot the other day. I guess I could use a longer boot (say 4" instead of the "required" 3.25").


texts: How grout entire floor without disturbing the grout?

texts:
It's my first time grouting a floor (5x9' bathroom).  The tiles are 2" hex.
I figured I would only be able to do half the floor at a time to avoid disturbing the grout when it's soft.  Is this true, or is there a good way to do the whole thing at once?


texts: Artist recommends using 4" dry wall screws inserted at an angle to hang his art.  This does not look sturdy.  Any ideas ?  The art is a large ceramic tic tac where 2" of the screw is inserted in one end for hanging purposes.


texts: starting plans for a raised bathroom in my basement . I have ben looking on Google. YouTube etc. To figure out how to plumb the bathroom. Since I will not be breaking out concrete. How would I attach the new drain for shower sink and toilet to this existing cast iron line . Thanks


texts: Use screw into steel tube without using nut?

texts:
I have a regular round 1 1/4" steel tube, and I want to put a screw in it. The tube only has one hole (where the screw goes) so I can't use a nut.

What options do I have and can I find it at Home Depot?

Thanks.


texts: 30yo water heater replacement options for a small condo

texts:
I bought a small condo under 500 sq.ft., with a 30y.o. rusty, leaking and smelling electric water heater (w/ 30G tank). The water heater is, obviously, to be replaced. Hot water is consumed by 1 shower, 1 bathroom faucet, 1 compact washer, 1 dishwasher and 1 kitchen faucet.

I see the following options:

Single water heater with tank. Replace for the almost same model,
but new.
Single tankless water heater, to save some space in the utility closet.
Single heatpump water heater with a tank.
Multiple (5) point-of-use tank-less water heaters, installed right where it is needed: near shower, faucets, dishwasher and
washing machine.

I need help deciding between those options. What are the main factors, by which do I compare those options?

Here is the preliminary research I did:
1. I started with: cost of the unit, cost to install, cost to operate, noise and projected lifetime.
2. The approximate water flows are: 1.5 GPM for faucets and dishwasher; 3.0 GPM for shower; 2.5 GPM for the washing machine. + 1 GPM extra.
3. My ground water temperature is 52degF.

1 is: $300 for the heater, $1200 for professional installation. $300 for DIY. Noise: very small. If previous water heater survived 30 years, then almost no maintenance is required for another 10-15 years.

2 Tankless can run about $530 (Ecosmart 5GPM). The utility closet is far away from the circuit breakers. So 3 x 40 AMP breakers and proper (#6 gauge) wire has to be wired over existing structure. Easily, $400 for professional wiring, $100 for DIY, but a bit complicated for me. + $1500 cost of professional installation, about $300 for DIY. Noise: negligible. Rumors are that maintenance (descaling) every year is required.

3 Heat Pump Heater: (e.g. Rheem) Very expensive: $1400 + I can assume expensive installation on the order of $1500. Consume less electricity to operate. May require extensive maintenance. Noisy: 49dB. Has 15 year warranty and may have some energy rebates.

4 Multiple POU units. Each of them have to sustain either 1.5 (faucets) or 3.0 GPM (shower and washing machine). 1.5 POU units can be hooked up to standard 120v, no rewiring required (e.g. Ecosmart POU 3.5). 3.0 GPM ones (e.g. Ecosmart POU 6) will require single 30Amp line and a breaker. $150*3+$200*2=$850 for a set of 4. Some small installation required. Not sure about maintenance. Noise: negligible.

Price of DIY installations does not include exisitng tank heater disposal.  I am personally inclining to #4, to get rid of one big central heater at all.

Please tell me, if I have determined the comparison parameters right? Is there another dimension to compare those 4 options? Is there anything I have missed? Is there anyone who did #4 and is happy with that?


texts:
Completely renovated a new home recently. We always had issues with the water pressure, so the builder put in a new line from the city (1.5 inch) down a long driveway. We also got a tankless water heater (Navien NPE-210A).
Testing the cold water pressure I get about 100 psi, but as soon as anyone opens up a tap it drops to about 40 psi. After turning the tap off, it slowly climbs back up. I know the tankless water heater has a recirculation feature, but I turned the water off to it to do this test and it didn't make a difference.
The issue is turning on two taps of cold water drops the pressure even lower, making it impossible for more than one person to take a shower at a time. Any ideas of what to test or fix?


texts: How do I detect live electrical wires with a degree of confidence?

texts: I'm using a Zircon stud finder that can supposedly detect live electrical wires but I get inconsistent reading. Is this normal? Anyways back to the original question, how can I detect live electrical wires behind a drywall with a high degree of confidence?


texts: Hoover windtunnel bagless vacuum stopped spinning only when it is not on upright position

texts: when I push the foot lever to lower the handle, the brushes stop spinning on any carpet level setting. Once the vacuum is locked into an upright position, they spin perfectly. I checked the belt and it looks fine. Should I change the belt?


texts: What preparation is required for tiling over poorly laid floor boards?

texts:
4" hardwood floor boards mounted on a poorly-designed frame made out of whatever wood the constructor had lying around it seems. There's a lot of bounce, some boards even drooping 1/2" when walking on them.

I'm thinking of tiling over with 12" square tiles, maybe 16".

I've never used self-leveling compound before. Would it be suitable to level the floor with this before lining it with 1/4" cement board prior to tiling, or would it seep through gaps between the floorboards?

With the ceiling height already being illegally low at 7', I'm trying not to raise the height of the floor too much.


texts: Furnace starts only when R and W are shorted

texts:
The inductor motor starts only when R and W are shorted on the control board. The wires to the motor do not have power otherwise. The fuse seems good though I'll be replacing it tomorrow just to make sure. When the thermostat is plugged in and tries to initiate heating, VRW=28 V. Shorting R and W with alligator clips  does start the motor so it doesn't seem to be a control board problem, at least on the high-voltage side.
I do not know exactly what to expect when checking the wires behind the battery-powered thermostat but shorting RH and W there does not start the furnace. RC is left open for some reason, though the manual says that it should be shorted with RH. We have no A/C and nothing outside so there shouldn't be anything else between the thermostat and the terminals on the board.
The furnace was working normally last week but we're moving slowly so no idea when it may have stopped. The only "unusual" event since is that we switched the breaker off and on last week.
Where is the problem likely to be?


texts:
I had a fireplace inspection performed on a house that I'm buying. It's a "Cal-Mex" prefabricated gas only fireplace.

The fireplace inspector said that the fireplace is missing parts and is beyond its useful life and will need to be completely replaced. He quoted me $10k to have the fireplace replaced.  The previous owner has used the fireplace in the past but hadn't used it in about a year. When I asked the inspector what was specifically wrong with the fireplace, he said the company is out of business and I can no longer get Cal Mex replacement parts. He would not elaborate on what specifically was missing. The only thing missing that I could see were the ceramic logs.

Can I use non "Cal-Mex" fireplace parts on this fireplace to replace defective ones?


texts: Why is the water in my freshly filled above ground pool green?

texts: I had drained all but a foot of my 12'x 42" round above ground pool.  The remaining water was CLEAR, though there was a small amount of remaining "dust" on the bottom of the pool.  Thinking that once it was full, the filtration system would capture remaining silt.  To my SHOCK, once 3/4 full, it was a DEEP MOSS GREEN!  I filled it out of the hose, like I have several times, and I'm stumped.  WHY would the water out of our hose turn the pool GREEN?


texts: Installing water softener outside or inside? Already have“Easy Water” device. Does that change water hardness grains entered into new water softener?

texts:
We live in Florida and have had white crusty buildup for years in our dishwasher and on our shower heads and faucets and in washing machine. 3 years ago we bought an "Easy Water" thing for $300 and it is supposed to use electrical ion charge or something to change the water molecules so they won't cause hard water buildup. We really have not noticed improvement since installing it and we still have buildup in our dishwasher, washer, faucets, and showerheads.

Yesterday we bought $500 Whirlpool WHES44 water softener from Lowes. We have 3 bathroom home w 5 people living in it. There is no loop or drain in the garage & the hot water heater is in the attic not the garage, so my husband says there is no choice but to install the softener outside at the water main and build a shed over it. He thinks a shed will protect it from sun and freezing.  It only freezes here once a year or so.  He is an experienced carpenter (30+ years) and can do anything but he is not a plumber so maybe he needs a plumber to tell him some tricks to be able to set it up in our (very overcrowded) garage. Or maybe we should put it outside.  That will mean We'll have softened water inside and outside faucets.  I want to be able to wash the car with softened water but don't want softened water in the hose for yard watering because I was told it will kill your plants and grass.  We have a lawn sprinkler system my husband installed that is hooked up at the water main outside the house.  Can we just switch the bypass switch on the water softener when we want to use the hose or lawn sprinkler system for watering plants or yard?  Or does bypass mean you are still drawing already softened water out of the tank before it starts drawing hard water out of the pipes?

On a city website our water hardness is 17 to 20. It just dawned on me that we have that Easy Water thing hooked up to a pipe in the attic where our hot water heater is running and I wonder if it is bringing down the water hardness any and if it matters in regards to setting up the new water softener and entering in the water hardness level. If it does bring hardness down, we would enter a lower hardness number and maybe we would use less salt or potassium to soften the water.  We don't want to drink too much sodium and read about it and seems we would have to drink 4.8 gallons of softened water a day to go over the max of 3200 mgs of sodium recommended per day.  I read that if you buy Potassium at $25 per bag you won't have sodium in your drinking water.  Salt is $5 or $6 a bag.  From what I read we will use about 12 to 17 bags per year for a family of 5.  (My husband put the hot water heater in the attic thinking it would save us on electricity because our attic is so hot here in Florida.  He built this house 16 years ago.)

Should we get the water tested to see if that "Easy Water" thing is indeed lowering the hardness any? Or should we just turn it off and chalk the $300 as a waste of money and lesson learned? Maybe it is lowering the hardness some and maybe we should set the new water softener not to 17 to 20 but a lower number and save money on salt or potassium and on salt discharged into waste water and have less sodium in our drinking water? What do you experts think? I don't want to have to pay someone to come test water and don't want salesmen in here being annoying. Do you think the Easy Water thing does something good? Should we keep it on? Is it just wasting electricity? Will I be able to get unsoftened water out of the water hoses and lawn sprinkler system if we switch unit to bypass?


texts: Toilet supply line seems connected somehow that I can't see, what do I do?

texts:
I've just bought a bidet and assumed that replacing the water supply line would be easy, this is turning out to be a bad assumption.  After unscrewing both sides neither side seems to come out, I've tried pulling on both sides and the top will come down a bit but it feels like it's under heavy tension and as soon as I let go it's pulled back into position as if something is holding it in place.  The bottom side doesn't move at all and it feels like pulling on it that I'm just going to rip the valve out of the wall.
Do I just need to pull harder or is it possible that the top is somehow connected to something inside the toilet?  Certainly this isn't some valve/line/toilet package that isn't meant to be separated?


texts: I just moved into a new home and the anti siphon sillcock on the outside of the house is leaking from behind the knob.  I tried to remove the handle via the center screw but it was rusted so badly it broke.  The handle still wont come off.  Any thoughts on how I can do this?  I assume I just need to replace the seal behind the handle...


texts:
I live in an apartment complex with a small-ish patio. Every year they have a decorating contest, and I always try to hang some lights using command hooks, but they never quite hold on to the concrete, so after a few days, I'm left with a mess.
Near the edge of the concrete, there's a small gap - about an inch wide and about 3/8" deep. I was wondering if there's some kind of expanding clamp (I have no idea what I'm searching for, so this is how I've been conceptualizing it) that I could put in the gap, tighten, and use that to hang lights from? I don't know if such a product exists, or what it would be called, so google is failing me.
I've attached a picture of the gap.


texts: How do I stop a dimmer switch from humming?

texts:
I installed a dimmer switch in my washroom and it's making a buzzing noise. The more I increase resistance/rotate the dimmer clockwise, the louder it gets.

The humming seems to be coming from the common wire, not from the light fixture, live wire or from the mechanism within the dimmer itself.

The dimmer switch is advertised to hold up to 600w and I'm currently using 340w.

I tried to remove some of the lights and the noise persists.

The one thing I did notice is that the common wire isn't exposed or attached at the end, a section of the wire has been stripped at that's what the original switch was attached to.

How can I lessen or completely rid myself of this humming noise?

Edit: I've since replaced my Leviton rotary dimmer with a high end Lutron sliding dimmer and the problem still persists, at the same loud volume.


texts: How to undo an union on sacrificial anode?

texts: I was planning to inspect (and possibly replace) the sacrificial anode rod on my water heater. However, the union from the cold water supply to the rod looks differently from what I saw elsewhere. In particular, there is some kind of compound on the threads. What is it? Can I simply use a wrench to undo the union, or do I need to remove the compound somehow first? What should I use to remove it (either before undoing the union or afterward, before using PTFE tape to seal the union again)?


texts: Two separate gauge wired switch in one double gang box

texts: I finished my  basement using 12/2 wire. In the furnace room I built, there is an existing pull string light with 14/2 gauge wire. I added another light in that same room using 12/2 wire. My question is can I use a double Gang Box to have two light switches, one for the 14/2 wired light and one for the 12/2 wired  light? Although they are both separately wired to their own switch using two different gauge wire they will be in the same box. Anybody know the rule or code on this?


texts: Why isn't my water heater heating after element and thermostat replacement?

texts: I have an A.O. Smith 50 gallon water heater I replaced the upper and lower thermostat and element and still not getting hot water I notice that if I close the valve on the hot water it will heat but after 2 minutes of the valve being open it won't heat again until I shut the hot water off again


texts: What wire do I run to feed 120v driveway lights a total length of 500' from the switch?

texts:
I am running 5 - 8'lamp posts down my driveway a total of 400-500 linear feet. The lights will be 120v and will have LED bulbs vs. incandescent. Even though the total watts will be no more than 60 W, I know there will be voltage drop.
Thank-you


texts: Electrical for built-ins and fireplace insert

texts:
We're remodeling our fireplace, to include installing built-in cabinets and shelves on either side of the fireplace, changing the fireplace surround, mantel, and hearth. We're like to run electrical inside the cabinet boxes, right above the cabinet top in the first shelf, inside the fireplace to power the insert, and above the fireplace to power a TV (we may not actually install a TV, but want it wired for one on case).

Running media from inside to atop the cabinets is easy, as is power on the right from inside to atop. But I have three things I'm uncertain about:

On the left, it would be nice to run the power around the corner so above the cabinet the outlet won't be as noticeable. I couldn't find anything on running electrical around a finished inside corner.
I'm not sure the best way to run electrical from the left outlet to above the fireplace. I plan to install wood planks over the brick, so I could run the wire in a gap made with furring strips, or there's a gap behind the brick that I could perhaps fish it through.
Most media outlets I've seen would require 3 or 4 inches of space behind the surface, which would be a pretty big gap. Could I safely remove 3 or 4 bricks to recess the media outlet?

To run electrical into the fireplace for an insert, there's a gap below the stone surround where I could perhaps run metal conduit, or again there's a gap behind the brick surround that I could fish through.

This is very close to what we want for the final finished product.

Thanks for any help!

UPDATE

A lot of work has been done. One remaining part of this question that hasn't been answered well (in part due to lack of information on my part) is how to wire inside the fireplace for the blower of the wood fireplace insert. Here is the current status:

I'd like to avoid the cord from the insert's blower to be visible. There are a few options I can see. One is to run cable from the receptacle that will go in the middle down the gap between the bricks and the concrete block. The chimney will be fitted with an insulated liner allowing for zero-clearance, so heat should not be a concern. Another option might be to route the cable in conduit around the veneer surround to the side against the cabinet, then under the surround before the hearth is installed.

I imagine one or both of these options might violate code, which is why I am asking here. Thank you!


texts: What are some good ways to identify cracks that bedroom insects come from?

texts: I know that there are some thermal sensors to detect where heat fluxes are highest (which could identify cracks). But are there other solutions too?


texts: Should I use sugar soap or denatured alcohol to clean nicotine from painted walls?

texts:
I'd like to clean nicotine off of painted walls, but I'm not sure if I should use sugar soap, or denatured alcohol (methylated spirits).
Which would do a better job all-around, specifically for cleaning nicotine off of painted walls?


texts: How to install this cheap metal curtain rod?

texts:
I bought one of these cheap curtain rods for my home theatre blackout curtains:

But it doesn't appear to have come with any instructions. I mean it appears that I'm supposed to just screw those little hook ends into the wall and then set the rod upon the hooks. But this strikes me as odd for a couple reasons:

The hook itself is pretty long, and the end of the rod (as you can see in the picture) is curved anyway, so it seems the rod will hang way far out from the window when installed. I could perhaps find some shorter hooks.
It doesn't look like it can hold a lot of weight. In fact it doesn't even look like it can hold even the weight of the curtains (which are pretty heavyweight being blackout curtains).

To further complicate things, my apartment uses metal studs, not wooden ones, and they're a major pain to drill through. Moreover, there is basically a 4-inch section of wall on either side of the window where the rod pretty much needs to attach to, and I don't know if there's a stud there or if it's just drywall (haven't checked with my studfinder yet).

The window takes up pretty much the entire wall, and is about 10' across, minus the few inches on either side already mentioned. So in theory I could install the curtain rod onto the side walls, though I don't think this particular model would work very well (perhaps a tension rod would have been a better idea--do they come in 120" long versions?).

In short, is there any way I can install this in such a way that it will support the weight of my curtains? Will I need to buy some different hardware (if so, what kind of things will I need)?


texts: Bsmnt Watch Dog Battery Flashing "Add Water" but the water level is to the line

texts:
I have Basement Watch Dog Special.  The "Add Distilled Water" alarm keeps coming on.  The water level is to the line and the probe is submerged.  I measured the specific gravity of each cell: one is below average and one shows overcharged. the rest are at "optimal".
The battery hardly gets any use at all - I have lucked out, on no power outages.
Any suggestions, other than buying a new battery?
Thanks!


texts: Question on replacing ceiling fan with light fixture

texts:
I took down my ceiling fan, and it looks like there was a white, yellow, and blue wire being used.
The black wire I see capped and up in the junction box.

If I install just a simple light fixture, what wires would I expect to use ?

Is it odd that the black wire was not being used for the fan ?


texts: What size wire do I need for a 100A subpanel?

texts: I'm installing 200 amp service in a shop, and I am going to feed my house with a 100 amp sub panel. I want to use aluminum wire for this run. What gauge of wire I should use?


texts: How can I tell if the home I just bought has real wood countertops?

texts:
I am wanting to resurface my countertops but I do not want to ruin them.
How can I tell if they are real wood countertops?


texts: A ground from a 4/4/4/6 wire and a local ground, grounding rod, in a detached building does it meet code?

texts: Can I use the ground from a 4/4/4/6 wire, that's coming from main breaker box and a local ground, a grounding rod, in a detached building and meet code. Also do both grounds get attached to grounding bar in breaker box?


texts:
I've had tenants that I guess used the toilet but never flushed. Anyways, I'm unable to remove the yellow/brown deposits from the bowl, they seem to be really hard rock-like formations - I've ended up destroying the bristles on the brush while scrubbing.

What could I use to remove these deposits?


texts: old wiring inside wall gets voltage when shared switch is used - safe and to code?

texts:
I had someone run a constant hot to a new fan so it could operate with a remote. They left the old wiring inside the ceiling and it’s still contacted to a shared switch that operates other lights. The old wiring has nuts and electrical tape on the ends. When I turn on the lights I can see from a voltage meter that the old wires are hot. I only noticed this when I took the fan down to do some painting around the base. The wiring is inside the metal box that is part of the fan mount.

Is this safe and the correct procedure and is it to code?


texts: Laminate floor directly over plywood subfloor ok?

texts:
We just ripped up carpet in a room and found that it had 1/2" plywood over the joists and 5/8" particle board on top of that.
We are planning to install 10mm laminate flooring in this room.  The flooring includes a pre-installed pad underneath it.
This wouldn't be an issue, but I found that the transition to the next room will create a rather large step between the two floors.  The next room is 10 mm (25/64") hardwood placed directly on the plywood.  The particle board is already taller than that, and the new floor will be 10 mm thick.
Photo below shows the view from the hardwood side of the threshold into the room that will get the new the flooring.  The stack-up will be almost 28mm high.  Transitioning 18 mm seems like a steep threshold, and maybe a tripping hazard.  Unless I make the threshold as thick as the doorway, but that won't match the rest of the house.
Can I remove the particle board and install directly over the plywood, or is that not strong enough?  I could consider installing an underlayment if it's not too thick, but I don't think that's going to be structurally relevant.
EDIT:   I posted this question to see if I could determine the type of floor in the adjoining room.  It is NOT solid hardwood, as I originally thought.  Now the question is whether this floor  is structurally relevant.  If it's not, or can be considered the same as the laminate I'm about to install, then I can probably expect the same structural performance out of the two floors if they are both built on the same sub-floor.  Is that correct?  As @Kris asked in a comment, the existing flooring on the 1/2" plywood is not bouncy.


texts: How should I reinforce the center of my desk?

texts:
I've built a desk out of melamine 55"l 26"w and 30"d the sides are the same material and the center of my desk bends and causes my monitor to wobble. I'd like to reinforce this without large obstruction and was wondering the best way to do that.

On a side note, I've got chips on the edges from when I cut it and was wondering the best way to fill them.

Thanks


texts: Can I cut into concrete floor in kitchen?

texts: I need to run a gas line for a new stove. No room in the attic so need a 3x3 inch, estimated 12 foot trench in kitchen concrete floor. Wondering if anyone can offer advice.  I'm just concerned about cutting into the floor. Any concerns or issues I should be aware of and is this normal practice?  My gas guy suggested this as no other way to get gas line to new stove location. Thanks.


texts: Alternative attachment to concrete floor containing pex heat tubes

texts:
I am getting ready to finish my basement.  The counties "Typical Finished Basement Details" say that bottom plate attachment to floor is with 16D concrete nails face nailed.  What are USBC approved methods of attaching the bottom plate.  I really worry about putting nails 2" into the floor.

Has anyone any experience with dodging the pipe or alternate attachment?  The heating pex in the concrete is operational and should be in heating mode when I start the project.  Would one of those Infrared detectors work to locate and avoid the pipe?


texts: Plug too hot to touch after using toaster

texts:
I've used a toaster in the same outlet for a few years, today when unplugging it immediately after use I noticed the metal prongs on the plug were uncomfortably hot. The outlet was hot too, but quickly cooled down. I took the face plate off and couldn't see any damage to the outlet or wires, other than a lot of dust back there.

Using the same toaster in a different outlet didn't cause it to heat up, it's just this one outlet. I'm in the US and these are the original outlets in a house that's 35 years old.

Should the outlet be replaced?

Also I assume the heating up comes from the wires making poor contact with the screw terminals on the outlet, so would it be advised to strip the wires back a bit to expose fresh copper when putting in the new outlet?


texts: Dead outlet that make a volt sensor sing

texts: I have an outlet that makes a volt sensor ring but nothing works when plugged in. My outlet tester doesn't do anything either...does that mean I have an open hot somewhere?


texts: I have what appears to be black mold growing on my porch ceiling. What is your recommended method for correcting that problem? The ceiling is white.


texts: How do I switch this old NZ 3 gang light switch to a modern smart switch?

texts:
I am trying to switch over an existing NZ three gang over to a smart switch. In the old wire colour code, my understanding is that red is live, black is neutral, and green is ground.
I have already moved the black wire from the leftmost "1" slot to the neutral slot in the new switch.


texts: Convert Mortice Lock to Cylindrical Lock

texts:
Currently I have a mortice lock. My condo has rules on the esthetic looks of the lock. I wanted to change the lock to keyless and found something similar. However it's a cylindrical lock which the package says "retrofittable".  My question is: Is it possible to just change the handles?

I have attached the photos. 1st photo is the original lock. 2nd photo is what I plan to change to.


texts: Insulate an attic or a crawl space? Which one would be the most beneficial?

texts:
I live in Los Angeles. We have a sizable attic and we also have a crawl space. We have a heat forced-air system.

A few months ago we really felt the cold air in our house. Our crawl space is not insulated. When we walk around barefoot on the wooden floor it would feel cold.

My question is, if you only have funds to insulate one space which one would you do? The attic or the crawl space?  This is not an opinion. I'm looking for great advice.


texts: Can Closetmaid wall clips be reinstalled after painting?

texts:
I have Closetmaid wire shelving in my laundry room. I want to remove these so I can paint the walls.  Can I re-use the clips to re-install the shelves once I finish painting?

Thanks for any help!


texts: Can I use metal studs for framing a shed?

texts: We're building a shed on a pontoon so it will float.  Therefore we need it to be light weight yet sturdy enough to hold up to snow in the winter.  Will metal studs provide enough strength and support for this project?


texts: Should I install a normal window or glass block?

texts:
I'm struggling with a decision regarding replacing windows in our basement. We have glass block windows right now with a jalousie window in the center. The jalousie in the Chicago area is terrible and we want to get rid of it for something warmer.

I'm trying to figure out what the advantages/disadvantages for a glass block window is versus just a plain window. For example, the glass block seems to me that it would deter theft a little better. A normal window on the other hand looks nicer and will let in more light.

Can anyone identify any other trade-offs that I should know about before making a decision?


texts:
I'm looking for a deadbolt that has the handle/knob on both sides. Basically the opposite of a double-key deadbolt. The purpose is to put it on our basement door out of reach from the kids. An adult can lock/unlock the door from either side and would never get totally locked on either side, without needing a key.

Any ideas?


texts: No Room to twist and change Florescent Bulbs

texts: I have a kitchen Florescent light fixture with two of four bulbs not working.  Unfortunately, the fixture frame and other bulbs are so close I am unable to get a good grip on the bulbs necessary to twist, remove and change bulbs.  Does anyone know a trick to enable me to change these two bulbs?


texts: Can I get 240 volts to a hard-wired baseboard heater by plugging into a nearby outlet?

texts: I need some help I have a 42 inch cadet baseboard heater that needs 240 volts to run at full power. The heater is in a small water meter room I have it hard wired in but its only 120volts coming in and I noticed a 15 amp plug close by that is on a different breaker so I was wondering if i can wire a plug to the heater and plug it in while its still hard wired in to get the additional 120 volts so the heater runs at full power or can I just remove plug and hard wire it from there to thanks


texts: Easiest/Cheapest way to improve insulation of a room

texts:
I have a home office, which has 2.5 walls that border the outside of the house, and a floor that is over the garage. It's a nasty combination. It gets quite hot during the part of the day where the sun shines on one of the outside walls. The room is easily 5 degrees warmer or more than the rest of the house.

I can feel it, too. The floor itself is warmer than the floor inside the rest of the second story. The walls that border the outside are noticeably warmer to the touch than the other walls.

This house was built in 2006, so it's relatively new construction. And yet I question whether it was insulated correctly. Once we added a ceiling fan and had to open up the wall above the light switch -- there was no insulation there. That part of the wall does not border the outside, but that same wall DOES on the other side of the room.

I found this which is helpful for determining if there is insulation:
Determining if there is insulation behind a wall

So my question is really two things:

If the wall behind my switch is not insulated, does that mean they probably didn't insulate the entire wall? Is it common to only insulate the part of a wall that borders outside and not the rest?
Are there any DIY techniques to insulate the walls further that are relatively cheap and easy? If it does have to involve tearing open the walls, how big of a deal is it? What kind of cost would you think for a room that's about the size of a typical modern house's extra bedroom?


texts:
I'm trying to identify the sort of dust shown below.
Several days after wiping a surface in my older apartment it shows up. It looks like synthetic fiber, yet there is no vent or isolation material that I can see, nor is there a carpet, bedding, or clothes in that room. No pet either.
Any idea?

As indicated in the comments I did ask a related question regarding the origin of the dust. The answers didn't solve the problem so I'm now asking about the nature of the dust, which isn't quite the same thing. Some folks may recognize it for what it is without wondering where it came from.

Answer: It's fiberglass, see Apartment dust mystery.


texts: How to replace a missing drawer in a built-in cabinet

texts: Is there a simple kit or something to replace the drawer that my husband got rid of? I looked at some closet building materials but the drawer units were 24" wide -- too big. The opening is approx. 19"W x 4"H x 30"D. I'm no carpenter nor do I want a complicated project. Any suggestions?


texts: How can I fix a nail pop in vinyl flooring?

texts: I have two areas where the nail has popped causing some damage under our vinyl flooring. The planks were stuck together by offsets and self-glue. Is the only option to re-plank? I'm worried cutting and bending will just cause more damage overall. Of course, it's in the middle of a hallway.


texts: How can I control this electronic door release with an Arduino?

texts:
I am planning on fitting this GK311-1224 ANSI Release to a door and using a simple switch and Arduino as triggers.

Are there any examples of a typical installation for a lock like this.


texts:
I have been able to find 4 options for put tile in place:

Thinset.  Traditional use.  Can be tricky on walls and ceilings.  I've used it.
Mastic.  Comes in two flavours:  High VOC no longer sold in the US, and mostly water based.  Older stuff tolerates some moisture.  Newer stuff tends to become goop when wet.  Ok for kitchen back splashes, not ok for showers or floors.  I've used this laying vinyl floor tiles on concrete.
Epoxy.  Multi component that you mix as needed.  Difficult to work with.
Bondura.  Essentially double sided sticky tape.  Because it's so thin, there is zero tolerance for surface protrusions.

Is there a category I've missed?

E.g. lime and gypsum mixes that harden through carbonate formation from air, but still have creep ability and crack healing ability.


texts: Add switches for two new lights to an existing switch box

texts:
My question is a bit complex. I'll try to be short and to the point as best I can. I am trying to add two more light switches to make a total of three at a light switch. The first one that was there controls the ceiling fan in the middle of the ceiling. That was there and I had no issues. I want to install four recessed lights in the corners of the ceiling that will be controlled by the second switch. The third switch runs to an outlet that I'd like to be able to power a desk or table lamp. I already have all the wires in place as there was no drywall up and I had access to drilling through joists, etc. I just installed all the drywall earlier this week and taped it all up.

So back to the three gang light switch: I tried to "pigtail" two more times from the wiring that controlled the ceiling fan but that didn't work. Then I realized that the hot wire was actually not at the switch box at the wall but rather it was in the ceiling junction box that the fan connects to. So I'm leaving that wire connection alone and am trying to connect my two other lights to another source.

To describe what's in the photo above the ceiling fan switch is on the right (the switch is connected but hanging and not visible in photo), the middle switch will control the ceiling recessed lights and I will eventually put a third switch on the left (hoping to pigtail from the middle switch) to control power to an outlet for a lamp. The yellow Romex on the bottom left is my "mock up" to run power from the outlet below). If and once I am successful I will run it behind the drywall.

So then I tried to grab power from a nearby electrical outlet. I am enclosing photos to help with my description. When I got into the electrical outlet nearby I saw that it had two black and white wires connected into the back of the outlet. Between the two sets of black wires I located the hot wire and disconnected it from the outlet (alone with its corresponding white and ground wire). I then did a "mock test" to wire it to my second switch by using Romex to connect my second switch to the hot black and neutral wire that I disconnected from the outlet nearby. After I wired it up I turned the power on and my temporary ceiling light (where my permanent recesses lights will be installed) lit up. I thought I was successful. But here's the thing. When I tested the light switch by turning it on and off it trips the circuit and I lose power. But if I leave the light switch on and then turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker box the power works. But once I use the light switch to test it, something is tripping the circuit and cutting off power. I have never experienced this before.

The image above shows the electrical socket pulled out from the wall. You can see a black and white wire connected to the back which I did not touch. I am not certain but I think this set of wires run to another outlet on the opposite wall. I'm almost certain. The hot black and white wires that I disconnected from the back of the outlet are now connected to my yellow Romex wire to my middle switch for my ceiling lights.

For the third and final light switch at my three gang light switch box on the wall I was hoping to pigtail from the second light (which will control the ceiling recessed lights) to power the outlet for a desk or table lamp.

Above pic shows the temporary light I connected as part of my mock up. It works when I turn the power back on at the circuit breaker box in the basement. But once I turn the light switch on and off at the wall in the room the circuit trips and the power is cut off.

Does anyone have any advice or can anyone help? Let me know if I need to further explain anything be more clear.


texts: Main breaker trips when I turn on the welding receptacle breaker

texts:
When I turn on my welding receptacle breaker (50A, 240V), it trips the main breaker.  There is a flash/spark that comes from the connection of the welding receptacle's ground wire to the panel.  One other ground wire is connected at the same spot (220V) as well as some copper wire that exits the panel and goes outside (... the ground?).

Other information: the panel is in very good shape, is about 10 yrs old, the welding receptacle has never been used before.

Thanks very much for any help!


texts: What are the things I can do with a dead coconut trunk?

texts: Is it still useful when it's been some time when it died but still standing?


texts: Plans for running new 8/3 NM-B service for oven

texts:
I've been doing a lot of reading and planning for a run of 8/3 NM-B that is required for a new oven/micro combo in our kitchen remodel.  We currently have 10/2.  While I have quite a bit of basic home and other electrical experience, we want to be sure that we add this new run properly since I haven't done that before.

I've already started running the 8/3 and began about 1/3rd of distance by cutting out some ceiling and running one end down through an exposed HVAC return vent in the kitchen wall, through a few studs behind the fridge, and have wired it up to the installed oven next to there.

The other end of the wire is a lot more fun since the house is 2 story without attic access anywhere.  From the opened ceiling above a walkway, we intend to bring the 8/3 down into 1" EMT behind some new large cove moulding for about 6 feet, then into the wall and down about 6ft to run through a fireblock and under our stairs (an unfinished and not exposed area that I'm having to cut into from garage to access).  From there we'll go back up the insulated exterior garage wall on the opposite side of the stairs.  At that point I'll add a surface mount 4x4x1.5 steel box, and then 1" EMT again along the garage ceiling and into the wall above the panel.

I know all about protecting the romex from damage (hence the EMT behind cove moulding and on garage ceiling), as well as stapling in the wall every 4' and securing the EMT to the ceiling, as well as most of the other basics.

My main questions though before we work on the rest of this:

1)  Is it ok to have this cable non-continuous?  It may be significantly easier to run this cable through some of the EMT bends in the garage by having a splice (with junction box and proper #8 wire nuts of course) in at least one place, but obviously continuous wire (and especially ground) is better.  Additionally we bought a 125ft bundle but the total run should only be about 60-70ft, so that's a lot of extra to pull.

2)  For the EMT to wall transitions in the garage, is it best to use a junction box?  I imagine so because the connection from there to EMT can be very solid, and then the hole at the back of the junction box is centered and provides more distance from the edge of the wall surface to the wire (1.25" distance NEC rule).

3)  For the ceiling to EMT (behind cove moulding) to wall transitions, should we use bent EMT pipe through the sheetrock with tightened Romex to EMT adapters on the ends within the ceiling/wall, or could we just use a straight EMT pipe and add nailing plates on the back of the cove moulding at the ends where the cable comes out and goes into the ceiling/wall?  The latter seems easier since I don't have a 1" EMT bender (though realize I have to find one for the garage ceiling work).

4)  We have to add a new 40A double pole breaker in the panel for this.  Is it recommended to try and match the existing brand/model breakers exactly?

5)  Should we upgrade this circuit to AFIC?  We don't currently have any and I'm not sure of the usefulness only on a 240v to oven/micro combo.

Thank you!


texts: I am renovating a home built in 1979 which had ~100sqft of vinyl tiles from the ~90s in the kitchen. I didnt realize there was vinyl sheeting under the tiles and decided to cut the vinyl tile into ~2x2 squares with a circular saw for easier removal of the underlayment. After pulling up the entire floor I realized there was some vinyl sheeting underneath, so I decided to have it tested for asbestos to be safe. Testing revealed the sheeting did have (20%) Org.Bound/Fibrous Chrysotile. While I was wearing a KN95 mask, I see now that it doesnt provide much protection against fibrous asbestos. I thought asbestos flooring products were phased out in the early 70s. Should I be concerned for my health or am I over reacting. I was in the house for ~5hrs.  If I should be a concerned, Id really like to know so I can share with my primary care physician.


texts: Convert section of radiator pipes from rigid pipes to flexible pipes

texts: I am looking to purchase a treadmill to use in my basement hut the location I want to use it has radiator pipes in the way. I am wondering if it would be possible to replace the pictures section of pipes with ones that are more flexible / smaller that would keep them out of the way.


texts: Improvements to consider when opening walls during remodel of 60s home

texts:
I'm remodeling a 60s cabin home with vertical and horizontal wood board siding.
While I have the walls exposed, I wonder about possible improvements I should consider while I have access to the open walls. For reference, the walls are standard 2x4, 16" apart. Fireblocks already exist in the walls.
Here's what I've done (or am doing/will do):

Refinish all the siding (it was in rough shape, many had woodpecker holes). I've already refinished the majority of the wood and replaced what wasn't salvageable.
Replace old insulation (R-13, not much room for more).
Replace the old/brittle weather barrier with Tyvek.
Add nail plates over holes in the stud where wires were run.
I've found buried junction boxes in the walls. I am figuring out if the runs are actually efficient and making these accessible.

I'm curious if there's anything else I should be thinking about. For example,

What if I want easy access to the wire runs later on?
Any other structural things I should consider?
What about other "convenience" improvements? Access panels, ...?
I noticed fireblock foam wasn't in any of the vertical wire holes, or any for that matter (i.e., in the horizontal fireblocks between the studs). I might not be calling it the right thing here. In any case, I don't know if this is required or not (as I can't seem to find it mentioned in the local electrical code).

I'm doing the work myself, but I'm open to hiring help if it makes sense.
Thanks in advance.


texts: How can I fix a framing mistake so I can drywall?

texts:
I’m demoing a kitchen  and discovered that the top plate sticks into the room a half inch farther than the studs. The current drywall is attached to the studs and therefore is even with this top plate which leaves the problem of how to drywall the seam where the wall meets the ceiling properly.

Option one is to leave the current drywall and  drywall over it including the top plate.

Option two is to remove the current drywall and reframe the wall so it is even with the top plate.

Which is better and why? Other options?


texts:
Can someone tell me what kind of bath faucet is this?
Thank you


texts: I'm using resilient channel on a metal stud wall for sound reduction. The cold air return is in a wall that is not panned. The plan was drywall would enclose the area making it tight with airflow drawn from the room. But now, adding resilient channel will leave a 1/2” gap between stud and drywall, allowing air flow between stud and drywall and reducing draw from the room.  Should i now use panning material to enclose this area before adding resilient channel?


texts: How could I repair the following bathtub chip?

texts:
Like a fool, I managed to chip the bathtub in my apartment - what would my best bet be for repairing this, short of replacing the entire tub?

Long story short, I dropped something in the bathtub because my brain is the size of that a small flea, I understand that I'm not worthy of life, and all of that good stuff.

I think that it's a metal tub with a porcelain coating - could this be fixed with a repair kit?


texts: Garage ceiling fan / light - changing switch

texts: The house I bought has numerous light/fan switches with smart switches. The one in my garage started going crazy so I removed it and bought a regualr dual switch to replace it. The problem is, once I went to connect the new switch I realized it was not as simple as I thought. There are three sets of wires. Long story short... I've tried every connection possible that makes sense, but clearly I'm missing something. Attaching the photos here. The middle set of wires in the connection box (see second photo) are the ones that seem to have the power, since certain combinations with those specifically cause a trip to the breaker.  Anyone have any idea how these should be connected?


texts:
Sometimes, ~about once a week we get a "peck", a "pinch" from the water when we touch it. So there is something wrong. We live in a 10 story building.

I tried to measure what is happening: I got myself a multimeter. I put one of the wire from the multimeter to the water, the other wire in the phase of a connector (for just a second!). The multimeter told me 230V.. is this normal?

Question: How can I measure safely that there is any current somehow in the faucet? How can I detect what is causing the problem?

UPDATE: there is no grounding in the building (it was built at about ~1970..). Is it life-threatening? What does the water faucet have to do with the grounding in the connectors? Or there need to be a grounding for the water pipes?

UPDATE#2: There is no electrical boiler or heater in the building, as far as I know.


texts:
I have an old window A/C unit which the electronic panel is malfunctioning.
Basically, it keeps changing randomly the settings (watch the video). Examples:

If I set the fan to low, after a while it might switch to high (and vice-versa).
If I set to energy save, after a while it might switch to turbo.
Sometimes I can't turn it on or off, although I can hear the 'beep' from the panel.
... etc ...

Besides that, it is working fine (ie: it can cool down the room).

Recently I called a technician to repair this unit. He said that this unit is too old to find spare parts and the most cost effective solution would probably be to buy a new one (unfortunately, buy a new one is not an option for me).

Question
Any idea how to repair this unit?

Additional Notes

Air Conditioner description

Model: Springer Mundial Eletrônico
Type: Window
Capacity: 10500 BTU/h cold only


texts: How detailed is the information the electric company gets from the new smart meters?

texts:
Reason I am asking this question: Been crypto-mining for 5 months now and moved into a new place. My rig setup isn't drawing TOO much power, we're talking less than 1200w (but it's running 24/7)

I don't want to get my door kicked down because the local Law Enforcement got tipped off I was growing pot or something. Just want to know if they can differentiate between a 1000w HPS Grow Light, and my ~1000w mining rig.

What kind of details can the electric company determine about the devices in your home that are running?


texts: How can I stop kitchen sink caulking from peeling off after a few weeks?

texts:
We recently had a new metal kitchen sink and Formica counter-tops professionally installed, but the installer did not apply any caulking around the sink. During a follow-up call with the counter-top company, we were told that their installers do not caulk.

I bought some clear General Electric silicone caulk, caulked it myself, and let it dry for several days under a plastic sheet to ensure that it was well cured.

A few weeks after, the caulk started to peel away from the edge of the sink. I had followed the directions on the silicone caulk product, and cleaned the area before applying it.

What's the best way to prepare and caulk a sink so that the caulk doesn't continuously just come away from the edges it's intended to seal?

I want to do it as well as possible, so the caulking lasts months instead of weeks. To be honest, I am annoyed that I have to deal with this myself. We hired professional counter-top installer from a reputable local company to handle exactly this kind of thing on our behalf.


texts: How can I fix a bayonet light socket without replacing it?

texts:
I have a bayonet light socket, in which I have managed to snap off the "teeth" that hold the globe in place.

I'm not comfortable with doing electrical work, so is there something I can do to "fix" it well enough that the bulb will stay in place?


texts: What can I use redundant/spare AGM batteries for?

texts:
In my off-grid cabin I currently have a single 258 Ah (C24) Concorde PVX-2580L battery, with a 150 Ah spare (and generator) for backup situations where the main runs flat.

As I frequently see the voltage drop below 12.1V (i.e. the 50% mark) in the winter time, I have bought a pair of 2580's to double my available energy. These are of a different age and series than the one I currently have, and as one is not supposed to mix different AGM batteries on the same circuit, I am now exploring how I can make good use of them.

One thing I just came across is DC-DC chargers, such as this one from Victron. That would allow me for 120$ to charge a battery using the new batteries. That would effectively create a new circuit, so it would easily be under-utilized, if I didn't use that circuit much. I would also need to find space for the behemoth battery the 2580 is :)

Any other input on how I could make good use of the redundant batteries?


texts: Water pump that can shut down if no water from supplier

texts:
Presently we are suffering water supply crisis in which there is not enough water supply for the population so water supply has to be turned on or off by the supplier.

What kind of water pump that can shut itself off if there is no water? Usually for normal water pump, it still pumps even if no water is flowing.

(note: I'll be using pressure tank, not storage tank so there is no float. One can't put it inside the pressure tank itself. So I need something that can detect water flow not by level.)


texts: Can I split a 120 circuit from a 240 circuit when there is a neutral wire available?

texts:
I have a 240 volt circuit feeding a water well and want to "split off" a 110 circuit for a light and small heater. The well has a safety break of 13.2 amps max.  The wire is apx. 100 feet long, 8/4 with a 20 amp breaker. Can I add a load center at the well, use a 20amp,240 volt breaker for the well, 15 amp breaker/120 volt outlet (or 2, 1 on each leg) utilizing the neutral wire back to the original load center.  Currently it is protected by a 20 amp breaker, will a 30 amp breaker be too too much for the 8/4 wire?
Thank you,


texts: In layman's terms, what is reverse osmosis filtration?

texts:
The water filter installed in the kitchen advertises to work by the method of "reverse osmosis".

Can someone explain this concept without using technical terms or marketing mumbo jumbo?


texts: Is this an appropriate replacement for our current bathroom extractor fan?

texts:
Our existing fan is old, inefficient and extremely loud. I believe it is an old P Series centrifugal extractor made by Greenwood Airvac, although I am unable to be certain as the model and serial numbers have both faded to the point that they are unreadable. A picture of the unit without its cover is included below:

I have found a model I would like to replace it with - an ST100B Silent Tornado Hi-Power Bathroom Fan, but I don't understand enough to know whether it will be possible to easily replace one with the other. For example, do they require different diameter venting holes?

I intend to employ an electrician to do the actual work, so I do not require any detail beyond whether the model I have chosen is a suitable and easy to install replacement.


texts: What are some ways to appropriately hang things on a wall?

texts:
I just moved into a new house and am at the point where I need to start hanging stuff on the walls.  Most of the stuff I want to hang is around the size of a picture frame, large mirror, or diploma frame.

What are some useful tools and tips to help make sure I hang these items appropriately?

This is my first house, so I really don't know what I am doing and would like to avoid putting unnecessary holes in the wall or having my pictures fall down while I'm asleep.

I am not opposed to using nails, but am open to other options as well.  Also, I am willing to invest in various gadgets, etc... that will help me do this job better.


texts: Can a basement bathroom be vented through a stack servicing sinks on the floor above?

texts: Can a basement bath (toilet, sink and shower) macerating pump system be workably (not codes) vented into a 3" PVC that vents out the roof if the 3" PVC vent pipe also has 2 vanity sinks on the floor above using the 3" PVC for both a drain and vent (the sinks have traps of course where no smell at the vanities from the pump will exist; and, the basement pump vent will be hooked into the 3" PVC from above it where no vanity drainage can drain into it); and, if done, what are the actual drawbacks? Is the only possible actual problem that the basement bath will not drain as well only when the vanities are being used?


texts: Which is the bare wire in a 12-3 gauge cable?

texts: What purpose does the bare wire in a 12-3 gauge cable serve?


texts:
I live in a cold climate and every winter the metal clamps ( attached to brick) on my 2 1/2 inch pvc underground feed pipe keeps breaking at the side of the house. Can I  assume that the pipe is lifting and eventually snaps the screws ?
Is there a way of repairing this ?

If so,  will this require  some sort  of sliding  pvc sleeve ? If any one knows of a solution can you please let me know how one can repair this?
Thanks


texts: Mystery: Water vanished from flooded basement with no floor drain

texts:
I live on a century old home whose unfinished basement got flooded this week. We had heavy rainfall which overwhelmed the city's storm sewer.

At a certain point there were about two inches of water on the basement floor so I left the house to buy a pump and hose ( we have no visible floor drain )

By the time I got back most of the water had gone. Any ideas of what may have sucked the water out in the absence of a floor drain? As far as I can tell I dont have a sump pump either.


texts: Does thread compound (dope) over tape prevent this kind of leak?

texts:
When applying pipe joint compound, a.k.a dope, does the application of tape (Teflon tape etc...) not hinder a chemical bond between the compound and the threads, or is does the compound merely serve as a filler, albeit one that withstands high pressure?
Here is a new threaded water fitting where I noticed a slow leak:

I have a suspicion that the problem here is too much tape (someone did this before me), and I will take it apart and redo.
But what's interesting is that it seems there is water escaping at both ends of the threaded connection. This suggests the water is traveling under the tape to the far end as well.
Could pipe compound over tape have avoided this? Does this not make the case for compound-only?
This question, What goes on threads first: tape or dope? has answers either way, and comments arguing for or against each. It all seems based on valuable experience, but there is no mentioning of the science. And youtube videos on this topic go either way, or are indifferent about it.
To clarify the specific question in light of that and other similar questions: if the water is leaking under the tape, is compound -which goes over the tape per manufacturer's recommendation- the right remedy?
But I think the answer is in the comments: the taping is poorly done, and either it should be re-done, or it should be doped. No need to do both, this is an application failure, not the wrong choice of method.
Is this question a duplicate? No.
Other questions (see here and as linked in the comments), address when either of the two are required, yielding many contradicting answers.
My specific question asks about what happened here in my fitting (drops despite tape, no dope), could it be avoided with dope, and wouldn't dope alone be better than tape since tape is the point of failure here. And whether the tape would hinder a chemical or better compound bond (no it doesn't, a compound seal is not based on a chemical bond).
There are many valuable insights in the comments and in the answers, some reflect the sentiments and facts in previous questions and some are new.


texts: Is using the second terminal hole on the back of a switch electrically the same as bundling it with other neutral wires?

texts:
First, a picture for reference:

My question is: if I were to take the neutral wire coming from the light out of the wire nut bundle and instead put it into the second hole next to B, would it be electrically the same? Or is there something I'm missing here.

For context, there's a second switch in the same gang box. The hot line wire comes into this switch, then out of the second hole into the line terminal of Light 2. Light 1's load hot wire comes into the load terminal. Light 1's load neutral wire plugs into the neutral terminal. The second hole on the neutral terminal goes to a wire nut where the power line's neutral, as well as the neutral for Light 2 are connected (possibly in the same way, I'm not sure. I'd have to pull them out again to be sure).