texts: Duct and fan requirements for stove hood

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I have a commercial range, 36x24" on which I do things like stirfrying for 30 people using a 24" wok.  Our hood which advertises 900CFM is performing poorly.  It uses a 6" duct which has to run up 3' and then horizontally through the ceiling for about 15'.  I plan to either have the hood replaced or the duct size increased, or probably both.

@Tester101 provides a helpful formula for necessary CFM this similar question though I'm surprised it doesn't consider duct length and width at all.  But since my small kitchen is open to a large dining room with 12' ceilings, and we're talking about a commercial range, I probably should have 1200CFM.  I've seen 1200CFM hoods with only 6" ducts, but given I need to run 15' in the wall, I think the duct needs to be bigger.

Do you think an 8" duct is enough or should I go for 10"?  I really don't want to find it insufficient so I'm thinking of doing 10.  What if I did stick with my 900CFM hood, then would 8" be enough?

Added on 12/3: Thanks for your comments everyone.  We ended up installing a ten inch duct, a no-nonsense custom built hood. and putting the fan outside: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BROAN-Exhaust-Ventilator-4YG73 - 600CFM but it works a lot better than the 900CFM hood we had before, though I think we probably shouldn't have dropped the CFM.


texts: Can I safely mount a wall-mount networking rack on one stud?

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So I never really thought of it but I put a wall mount hinged Networking Rack in my home, it never came across my head "how much can this stud hold?"

Image of the wall and rack:

Ignore the mess inside the rack, I'm gonna clean that up and make it look really nice later just needed to wrap it up for couple days.

But my question is, is there a certain rule of thumb that a construction worker has to follow when mounting studs to a cinderblock wall?
I'm little worried of this thing falling off the wall in the middle of night. I was able to hang on it with the rack and I'm 200lb and it didn't budge but I'm still worried that it may weaken. Any thought will be helpful!

PS the studs don't extend to the ground.


texts: How to wire 3 switches and a receptacle in a two-gang box

texts: How do you wire a three switch receptacle (all three switches are together in a stacked appearance) with a GFI outlet in a two gang box? There will be a light above the bathroom sink and a fan with a light.


texts: How do I fix this drill hole on countertop?

texts: How should I go about fixing this mistake I made? The size of the hole is 5/32 in diameter and about a 1/16 deep. I’m thinking of cutting a piece of laminate from behind the fridge and hole punching out a circle  the same size. Not sure what the best way to adhere it would be. Should I do multiple punch outs to get the right height? Or should I fill it with something? Any help would be awesome. Thanks.


texts: how to wire a timer without negative using ground

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I have a switch i would like to replace with a timer like this

http://www.amazon.com/forum/-/Tx3DCN3HLSARWFS/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza?asin=B004SOZHXY

i only have a positive wire in my switch box,

could i use the (ground) box as a negative?

is it safe?

EDIT: i linked the wrong model above

would this do any better?

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RPLS530A-7-Day-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004SOZHR0


texts: I have recently painted using Hammerite metal paint. When I tried to clean the brush afterwards using White Spirit, I noticed it didn't work. Hammerite sells a specialized cleaning product, but I'd like to use a product that is useful in other situations too. Is there anyone who knows what kind of cleaning product might help?


texts: I am looking for a flow chart that shows what happens when a gas fired hot water boiler thermostat calls for heat  the power goes from the thermostat to the ? and then to the ? and so on


texts: outdoor GFCI tripping at the breaker box and not the receptacle?

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Is it normal for a GFCI, under load, to break at the electrical box and not the receptacle that caused the overload? Typically, I have only seen the receptacle trip and not the entire breaker.

I am not sure if this is the issue or not, but a closet in my house was wired to the same circuit as the outside GFCI. I have no idea why that is and only noticed it since we had contractors working on a project outside.


texts: Why are the front and rear slide rails offset on my Craftsman table saw?

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I've got a couple of questions regarding a Craftsman table saw (Model 315.228510) that I own.

When attaching front rail, it said to match the 6-7/8 mark on right scale to right edge of saw base. The saw has two extensions- one on each side. I noticed the distance from right edge of saw blade is right around 5 inches. What my question was is the purpose of lining up right edge of saw base to the 6-7/8 mark?
When attaching front rail and rear rail, the two rails are not the same length-the rear rail is shorter. Is it suppose to be that way? It seems to me you would want it to be same length so that the rip fence could be used the full length.


texts:
When I renovated my apartment and redid my electrical wiring, I missed the chance to set up network and tv cable too. While internet is fortunately solved by Wi-Fi, I am not so lucky about TV.
The signal is delivered by the provider via coaxial cables. I noticed there are devices on the market that can pass internet signal over power lines and wondered if there is something similar for TV signal? My searches returned nothing. If this is not possible, is there any other way to pass TV signal without a lot of new wires around the house?


texts: Connecting two thermostats in parallel to control old millivolt wall gas heater

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Hello I have a very old propane wall heater on a vacation home. It is a "millivolt" type that does not require external power (no battery, no 24 VAC, no 110 VAC). It is a simple 2 wire system. No C wire. You can see the current thermostat here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQWADS

I would like to keep this thermostat because we often lose power at this location. This allows me to control the gas heater even without electricity.

However I would like to install a smart thermostat in parallel that I can control remotely via the internet - but keep the existing one as back up. In case of a power  outage, I can still control the temperature when I'm at the same location.

I understand that most smart thermostats like Nest don't support millivolt heaters out of the box, but I've read there are ways to rewire them to support them, especially the UK version of Nest. Regardless of this possible issue, my question is more basic:

Will two thermostats wired in parallel work well with each other?

Will heater run as long as one of the thermostats is ON (even if the other one is OFF)?  Are there any conflicts or concerns is both thermostats are ON at the same time?  Any concerns if one is ON and the other is OFF?

Thank you.


texts: What could happen if I use 2 cycle fuel in a 4 cycle engine?

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First off, this is NOT to be confused with the following question:

What could happen if I used 4 cycle fuel in a 2 cycle engine?

2 cycle oil is used for my weed eater. There is no way I could use a whole gallon in a year.

Sometimes I run out of gasoline for my 4 cycle lawn mower, and that 2 cycle mix fuel is sitting there getting really old.

If I run that in the lawn mower, am I simply going to create extra pollution or could the 2 cycle fuel cause any damage to the 4 cycle engine?


texts: I spend long time in picking lumber. What do you look for when selecting boards?

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I typically spend very long time in front of the lumber aisles inspecting boards. Many times I end up not getting anything after all because I thought all boards are imperfect.

I see pros spent few minutes next to me in the store or lumber yard, inspecting boards quickly and be gone.

What do you look for to decide whether to take a board or not?
To scope down my question, let's take pressure treated boards as an example. Are cracks bad? Damaged Un-curved edges? Knots?

I'm new to woodworking. Thanks for your help


texts:
I love the treads on these stairs which I will be revitalizing. The risers are awful. I was thinking of adding a nose and then using 1/4 be needed plywood to cover the treads. The wall right next to the stairs had an orange peel texture and if I add plywood it will be higher than the wall. The steps change site tionand the rest of the flight has walls in either side and isn't an eyesore. Its just 4 steps that need help.

Any suggestions would be super helpful! Thank you!


texts: Would retiling a shower with larger tiles mitigate mould growth on the grout?

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I am about to update my walk-in shower which has an electric shower, single sliding door and tiled walls with white grouting. I have never been happy by how frequently the grouting turns black and mouldy despite using anti mould silicone.

I had considered using a wall board system but I think I still prefer wall tiles.

Whilst thinking about the job it occurred to me I could use much larger tiles than the current 8" x 6" ones and this would result in less grout shown. However, in showrooms, I have also seen some large shower tiles with dark grey grout or maybe adhesive such as that used with floor tiles with the adhesive being the grout also. I wondered whether this would be a better option for both minimising mould and to show less discolouration? Or are there better solutions to the problem of mould?


texts: 3 wire outlet.i know white goes with silver and black with copper. Does the order they go matter?

texts: There's six wires plus a ground. Wich one goes where?1234?♂


texts: How much extra wire should I have in my electrical panel?

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Question:

What are some rules of thumb for leaving extra wire within an electrical panel (if any) and routing the extra wire (e.g. create a single loop from the extra wire) to maintain balance between considering potential future wiring needs and also keeping the panel from turning into a complete rats' nest. I am looking for recommendations on additional wiring methods for the wire that feeds the panel as well as the wire that feeds the branch circuits.

Also, with the answers, I am looking for additional reasons why you might need to have extra wire in a circuit panel. For example, I can see leaving some extra wire in the electrical panel for the branch circuits so that you have potential to rework the positions of the circuit breakers in the future without having to run new wire. The only reason I can think of for having extra wire for the main lines feeding the panel is in case I wish to swap out for a different panel in the future which would require the main lugs/breaker in a different spot.

Specifics for My Situation:

I have one 200 A main panel (3/0 AWG wire feeding the panel, spaces for 40 breakers) feeding two other 100 A subpanels (2 AWG feeding these panels) which then feed branch circuits for receptacles (6 AWG to 12 AWG wire feed these circuits). The 200 A panel has spaces for 40 single breakers (~40 inches tall) and the 100 A panels have spaces for 30 single breakers (~30 inches tall) -- I presently plan to have lots of unused breaker space in each panel. I mention this because I figure the size of the panel might also influence the amount of extra wire desired (e.g. in the future, you might want to move a circuit from the top of the panel to the bottom) and the amount of extra wire that the box can accommodate (e.g. if all 40 breakers are used, it doesn't seem like there would be a clean way to leave much extra wire at all).


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Our radon system is right under/outside our 6 month old's bedroom. Over the fall and winter I never heard it but now it is running a lot and it is very loud and it is affecting our daughter's sleeping. We never used the room she is in last spring so I do not know if it ran a lot last year.

Is there a way to either:
A. Reduce the system noise? or
B. Schedule when the system goes off (i.e. have it run during the day rather at night)?

Thanks for your help.

UPDATE:
The guy came out said the fan was good but the unit was touching the house so any vibrations were transferring into the house. He also thought the system could be a bit louder than usual due to high ground water levels from excessive rain of late. He repiped it to move the fan off the house and put foam between the pipe and the house. It was under warranty so that was a plus.


texts: Is it possible to recover pencil marks on a wall that has been painted over multiple times?

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My parent's home has a wall that apparently used to contain lots of pen and pencil marks indicating the height progression of my father when he was growing up. The house itself was built in the 1950s and the first time the wall was painted over was in the early 2000s (by accident). Afterwards, they thought it was not recoverable so they had it painted over once or twice more when renting the house out. Over the years they've always wanted to see if there was a way to get it back.
I am not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but is there a chance the pen and pencil marks could be recovered? I am assuming that if I were to remove the paint, the pencil marks might be destroyed. I do remember that when the pencil marks were made, the wall at the time may have been some sort of unpainted drywall. Would there be any options here anyone might know of? Thanks in advance.


texts: How to do sink plumbing in the basement?

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We are working on finishing our basement. We have this area that is perfect for a fridge/counter and maybe a sink.

I'm thinking of leaving space for a fridge on the left, then some cabinet/countertop. Then some overhead cabinets as well.
We are thinking of installing a small sink but I'm questioning how to get a sink to drain due to the positioning of the plumbing. Would we have to get some sort of pump to push the water out?
The pipe pictured overhead comes from the kitchen upstairs.

Then leads to this outlet here that is at least 2 feet from the ground.


texts:
I have an office desk with a semi-circular section (to sit at) where the edge banding has come away from the wood. The edge banding is fairly thick (1-1.5mm) and rigid, so it takes a fair bit of pressure to press it back flush against the wood.

I'd like to stick the edge banding back to the desk. What's the best kind of glue for this? Would a hot glue gun be the best solution? Would a series of big bulldog clips be enough to hold it in place while the glue sets?


texts: how to vent an electric dryer when outdoors isn't option

texts: We have a building on the 3rd floor of a 4 floor building that we are building a loft in,  It is in an historic area, we are in the middle of the block downtown.  size 21'wide x 180'long, left and right walls are 18" of brick with plaster overlay. venting through the roof isn't an option.  do they make a ul rated dryer lint box or can a vented electric dryer be vented to a converter of sorts to stay in code for indoors.  I am at a cross roads I have a brand new electric washer and dryer I bought a year ago.  I cannot take it back and I am trying to find a way to complete this project so the building inspector will let us move in.  Do you have any info or options.  Thanks so much


texts: Is it legit to turn a dedicated combi bolier supply into a ring circuit with outdoor socket?

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I would like to install an external socket. Conveniently located on the other side of the wall where I'd like to put said socket is the combination boiler which has a dedicated supply from the consumer unit.  The boiler itself heats water with gas, using electricity only to power the controls and ignition.

Is it a) safe and b) legal in the UK to turn this supply into a ring circuit with the boiler and socket, where the socket would be protected with an inline RCD?  If not, is there a safe and legal way to do this?


texts: How much force can a concrete block fence and wood stud hold when installing a large shade sail?

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I have a standard concrete block fence. I want to install a large 20 x 26 foot shade sail, or two 20 x 13 shade sails by screwing hooks into the wall, and the other end into my house via the studs.

will this rip out of the concrete?
will this rip out of my house?

What is the calculation for knowing the maximum force that concrete blocks, and wood housing studs, can hold?


texts:
Do not know if I’m under engineered.
4 feet in depth, individual 3000lb block to form walls (seating area), on geogrid between 6” of 1 1/2 angular stone, and on top of blackland prairie soil.. I have a dry well to hide the rain over flow.
https://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/57669/geotechnical-engineering-classification-and-percolation
Top Yellow Seating back - recessed off 6” off;
Bottom yellow block - 3000lb seating;
Between Stone and base? Geogrid;
Dark grey - Base;
Light grey - Gravel sides
Brown around sides it just undisturbed dirt.
!
!
This is a close up of the subdivisions back filled garbage soil, never mind the irrigation we’re cutting it out next week, but we don’t want it to flood like the rain did and paused us during construction.


texts:
Continuously heating a pool can be expensive and the best ways to lower the cost are to have a cumbersome pool cover in addition to the equipment needed (solar or an AC-like heat pump). There must be a way to say, raise the temp of my pool 5-10 degrees using propane and a well crafted "heat exchanger". We don't go in the pool every day so if it cools off and we need to reheat we'll know the cost to do that is a tank of propane or so.

Does a propane heat exchanger exist? Can I make one myself? Can I use the same pump or should I set up a separate one just for heating?


texts: Flushable kitty litter...should I flush it or is it bad for my plumbing?

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I rent an apartment in California. I flush my kitty litter because it is flushable.

Is flushing kitty litter not good for your plumbing even though the litter was designed to be flushed down the toilet?


texts: Can I use a receptacle and switch for a dishwasher and garbage disposal?

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I would like to install a receptacle under the sink to control the dishwasher and garbage disposal, with a single pole single throw switch mounted in the wall above the counter top to control the garbage disposal.
In the load center I would like to use a 20 amp GFCI breaker to power the circuit.
I'm using #12/3 romex to feed the circuit.
My question is, would it be better for me to replace the garbage disposal with a unit that has an automatic sensor that activates the disposal when the plug is inserted or turned rather than going to all the trouble of mounting a switch on the wall.
Since the dishwasher and disposal don't run at the same time and the full load amps are less than 14 amps on either appliance, I'm thinking I can just use a 20 amp GFCI receptacle and save on the GFCI breaker.
I would really like a professional opinion on which way proceed.


texts: Underfloor heating stops working after 5 minutes

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I have recently moved into a flat which has underfloor heating. Yesterday I wanted to test it, but it seems that after 5 minutes of working, it doesn't resume again.

The actuators on the manifolds are correctly switched on when the thermostat sends the signal, and initially (from cold) the flow is on (I can feel the specific pipes to be hot), but after 5 minutes it stops working. The seems to be fine.

If I switch it off, let it cool a bit, and then turn it on again it starts working for 5 minutes and then stops again.

Worth mentioning that the heating in the apartment is actually through a Heat Interface Unit, the source of heat being a heating system which supplies heat generated from one energy centre to heat several individual properties and provide hot water to them.

What could be the problem?


texts:
We had a failed break in attempt into a storage room with a quite thick steel door. See images. The lock itself if not damaged and mechanically sound, so even though it looks pretty bad, it's still just a cosmetic damage.

What would be a viable way to make it look less bad at the very least?


texts: How to remove rust and paint my barbecue?

texts:
I have a barbecue similar to the one in the image. It's still in good shape, but sun has taken out the shine and there are one or two spots or rust (really small) that would like to remove.

I would like to do something about it. Either polish it or paint it. Since the metal is subject to very hot temperatures I don't know if I can do it with any regular product or paint.

How can I make the bbq shine again?


texts: Device to "freshen" an unventilated bathroom?

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Is there a device that ozone-ises or ionises the air to reduce the odour that builds up in an unventilated bathroom?

I'm not talking about reducing smells created by - eh - "toilet deposits", more the smell that builds up because there is exposed water in an unventilated room.

Update
This is indeed an infrequently used bathroom, in my inlaws basement. I need to do some wiring work down there and thought if there was a device I could wire in to help I'd do so.
I thought I'd seen things in bathrooms in Pubs & Restraunts that does this, possibly not.


texts: 14 day skipper not advancing on Intermatic sprinkler timer

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I am trying to troubleshoot my sprinkler timer. There is a 14-day skipper wheel that has silver pins that you pull out on the days you want to water or push down on the days that you do not want to water. However, it seems like the wheel that tracks the days is not advancing.

I found this troubleshooting guide and in bullet #1, it says:

  The 107T119 silver pin goes at 12 midnight on large yellow dial. This pin advances the 14-day skipper wheel each day. Check for
  silver pin and check that it advances the skipper wheel. If pin is worn down, or missing, then buy new 107T119 pin.

I have tried to research and find what exactly this pin looks like. Is it these brass pins here? If so, I have plenty of them and that's what I use to set the time. I do not see a silver pin on my dial other than the silver pointer that points to the time.


texts: Bath diverter spout has extra quarter turn left in it

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I've just installed (screwed in) a bath diverter spout. The outlet obviously has to point down once it is fully screwed in. When hand tightening,  it is possible to complete an extra quarter turn at the end to make it tight. At that point the outlet is pointing to the left.
I've applied Megaloc thread sealant to the male thread and screwed it in an left it pointing in the down direction as one would expect.
A few questions:

Will the thread sealant be enough to ensure that this is not going to leak?

How long do I need to wait for the thread sealant to cure/dry?

How will I be able to tell if this is leaking back into the wall?

The image from under the spout shows a hole at the bottom flush with the wall.

Is this to drain the water onto the outside of the wall instead of the inside if there were a leak?


texts:
My 12 year old Black & Decker 7308 Type 7, 230 Volt A.C corded circular saw is struggling to rip 12 mm plywood; I have changed the blade and it still struggles to rip. Can you help me diagnose the problem?

I tried to cut a 30 mm thick wood, but it was struggling to cut and so I stopped. Afterwards it even struggles to cut 12 mm thick plywood. (not enough torque)
Does the motor need rewinding to improve the torque?

Thanks


texts: What's the right approach for insulating the slab & footings underneath a masonry fireplace/heater?

texts:
The fireplace will be located in the middle of the concrete slab (away from the foundation stem walls) so it will have its own footing.

My impression is that footings should rest on soil & gravel and the slab should "float" on rigid foam. I've done a fair bit of homework on foundation and basement insulation in general, however when it comes to fireplaces and insulation the focus seems to be primarily on chimneys and doors (where I suppose it's too late to think about footings in most cases).

The options I've considered + diagrams of the footing cross-section:

Uninsulated fireplace footing - thermal bridge right into the ground, but in the middle of the slab. How significant is that?
Insulate the fireplace footing - do building codes generally allow that?
Uninsulated footing with insulation between slab and footing.

RE: 40 PSI foam, 8000 lbs on a 3' x 6' footing works out to just over 3 PSI additonal load.

By the way this is in Zone 4 marine climate - gets cold but frost doesn't penetrate below the topsoil.


texts:
I am hoping to bracket two pieces of wood together at in a removable fashion (parts of a table that can be disassembled).

Through research I found hanger bolts which look close to what I would want, but I think ideally I would have some sort of hollow screw into which a bolt could be threaded. That way I could screw into the wood once and then thread a bolt to attach the bracket when necessary.

Does this sort of part exist and if so what would be it's name?

Also is this a decent idea in general or is there a better way?


texts: My heat pump when I start condenser fan wil run if go to command in compressor suddenly my elcb will tripping. My a/c technician told me compressor is grounded , i changed that compressor 7months before , what is the reason for compressor grounded suddenly


texts: Are 38mmx72mm roof trusses sufficient for a 6m span?

texts:
My roof truss timbers are 38mm x 72mm on 600mm centres with a 6m span.  What's that in good old inches?

It seems a little skimpy to me; is this normal for a modern house? I am trying to do a rough dead load calculation. All the information I can find is for 4"x2" lumber. Mine are more like 1 3/4" x 3".

I think I read that 4"x2"s are actually smaller due to shrinkage so I have even less clue as to what my size is!


texts: Why is the water pressure in my home clearly less than my neighbors?

texts:
I own a relatively new home (3 years old) in a new development.  I have a PEX water system, which I love (as do all my neighbors).

So, I put out the "fan" sprinkler in my yard, and it shoots an anemic four feet high.  My neighbors fan sprinklers shoot a robust 15 feet or more.

I notice that in general, the water pressure in my house is less than I'd like it.

Is there something going on?  What can I do to improve my water pressure?


texts: Water shut off to bathroom sink: valve not working and I do not have ready access to main water supply

texts:
I did something dumb today and I'm panicking. I tried to replace the bathroomfaucet to surprise my husband (mission accomplished on the surprised part) because it was one of his tasks before we (and here's the dumb part) list our condo so we can get a bigger place. I replaced our kitchen faucet no problem. As with the kitchen, I turned the valves under the sink so that no water came out. I pried that old as dirt faucet off the sink and then started to loosen the cold water bolt with a channel lock. When it got loose water started coming out. Like spraying water. I moved the valve around and it doesn't seem to do anything. I did manage to retighten the bolt but now we have a faucet that's literally hanging into the sink.

Now, I live in a condo and where shutting off my main water means everyone loses water, which is what I found out when I asked the hoa president if he knew where our units main water supply shut off is. I called and emailed the hoa admin to see when they would be able to shut off water but no word yet.

I'm thinking now that maybe the valve is broken (?) and may also need to get replaced. So, the question I have (and I have seaehed for this answer) is: is there any way for me to shut off the water if the valves don't seem to be responding and I do not have access to main water? I'll need a plumber regardless at this point but would rather not have to have them sit around while the main water drains.

I'm mortified so any kindness and info would be greatly appreciated

B


texts: what are the little dots on wiring diagrams?

texts:
There are little dots along the lines in many wiring diagrams, like in response to the question "How do I know if a ceiling fan with light and the switch are wired correctly?".  Some of these seem to indicate a junction with another wire, or a color change, but some are just in the middle of a single color wire.  What does this indicate?

Also, why does the color change along a wire in a diagram?


texts: Can I install a (probably ductless) range hood against brick?

texts:
I'm thinking about making an offer on a 1930's house that needs a few improvements. The gas stove/range isn't situated against an exterior wall. Rather, it's placed against the back side of the brick chimney that separates the kitchen from the living room. There's no range hood and no duct.

There are no cabinets installed on the brick above the stove. There is, however, a smallish metal pot rack installed directly onto the brick.

Can I somehow fit this range with a hood, either ducted or ductless? Can I install such a hood directly onto the brick, on the back of the chimney? Pardon my ignorance, but are there ductless units that one can hang from the ceiling, and is there any reason why that wouldn't work for me?


texts: How should I run outdoor wiring under my second-story deck?

texts:
I have a light on one side of the space under my deck, and I'd like to add another.

My plan is to add an extension box between the existing fixture and the house (using appropriate gaskets as necessary), then run UF wire out the bottom of that box using a rubber gasket, up to the bottom of the deck (which has aluminum sheeting on the bottom of it) and across to the other side, then up into the bottom of the new fixture using another rubber gasket. Both sides will have drip loops, and the middle span will be supported using wire clips.

NFPA 70 says that UF wire is permissible in wet locations, and the only provision that might prohibit its use states it may not be used "where subject to physical damage". None of this will be less than ~7' off the ground.

Does this sound reasonable, or am I going to need to put in conduit?


texts:
Can a standard power strip (when switched off) stop vampire power draw from electronics??

I'd rather not buy one of those new-fangled "smart" power strips for $30 - $40 if a standard one will do -- I don't have any problem flicking the switch.

I gave my father a Belkin watt-meter for Christmas, but it's about 650 miles away so I can't personally test it myself.

The cable modem, router and cable box will stay on to maintain wifi and cable programming guide.  I'm mostly interested in completely shutting down other home theater equipment that isn't in use 90% of the day.


texts: What are my options for a basement floor drain?

texts:
I'm in the process of finishing my basement and I'm trying to figure out what to do about the existing floor "drain" by my furnace and water heater.  Frankly it looks like it's just a whole cut into the basement slab and I doubt it's been built properly.

What are my options for retrofitting this into a proper floor drain that can take the AC condensation runoff, humidifier runoff and any possible water heater leaks?

Here's a picture of the existing floor "drain"/hole with the current piping from the dehumidifier and furnace:


texts: What could cause a brand new fluorescent fixture to not work?

texts:
I purchased a brand new fluorescent light fixture to replace my previous fluorescent light fixture (it was old and one of the ballasts was blown, so it half-worked).

After drilling the holes in the wall, mounting the fixture, plugging in the 3 wires (brown, yellow, blue into the appropriate sockets) and mounting the tubes, I turned on the circuit breaker to see if it was working right.

At the first second, there was a normal white fluorescent light. It then flashed and turned off.

I reset the wall switch to cut and restore power to the bulb, it then flashed an orange light very brightly on both sides of only 1 tube, the other tube was completely dark. It did this for about 3 seconds, then turned off completely.

Resetting the wall switch again did nothing. There was no visible light at all, maybe only for a split second after turning it on the 3rd time.

What could this be? Is the wiring in the fixture defective? It came pre-wired in the box, the only wires I connected were the 3 brown, yellow and blue wires.


texts: Can I reuse the aluminum feeder wire when I replace a sub-panel?

texts:
I'm rewiring my 1957 house because there was no ground. I have a main panel and a subpanel in the crawlspace that currently only give power to the gas furnace. I want to add the air conditioner on the subpanel (30amp breaker), a 20 amp breaker for microwave and some outlets in kitchen, a 15amp for furnace, and a 20 amp for my bathrooms outlets.

Can I keep aluminium wire feeder? What size breaker at the main panel? I understand I need a ground kit for my subpanel, can I install it anywhere in the panel? Thank you.


texts: Replacing a stuck stopcock - what could possibly go wrong?

texts: The main water feed is a lead pipe. The stopcock has apparently been replaced at some point but is now stuck. I managed to turn it off once before but it required more force that I think is wise. So I'd like to replace it before I start some other plumbing maintenance that will require me to actually close the stopcock. Also it's not exactly useful for emergencies as it currently is.  It looks like I should just be able to unscrew it and fit a replacement. But is there anything else I should be aware of?


texts: wire gauge for dual driven appliance (solar inverter)

texts:
I've been thinking about the #8 wire between a sub-panel, on a 50 amp breaker, and a 10kw solar inverter.

Between the 50 amp breaker and inside the inverter, in the event of a fault, the wires would be driven on two sides, potentially at upwards of 90 amps continuously.  The size of the wire between the inverter and sub-panel was sized by the 50 amp breaker - #8, and is contained within PVC conduit.  Inside the inverter the wire is both #8 and ~#16.  The #16 wires goes to a WattNode power meter that consumes ~1 watt.

How is that #8 is allowed between the appliance and the breaker, and within the appliance, ~#16?

This is within the US and is for a SolarEdge 10k inveter.  Sub-panel has 100 amp bus bar, w/utility at top and solar at bottom.


texts: How do I install a vent above a closet door?

texts:
I located some home theater gear in a closet directly behind our family room where the TV is located. Now the closet, a sizeable walk-in, is getting rather warm.

How do I install a simple vent above the closet door to allow the heat to circulate out? Is it as simple as cutting an appropriate sized hole in the drywall and putting up some stock return grills? Can grills be screwed directly to the drywall and/or fastened with drywall anchors? Is there anything else to consider?


texts: What is this vacuum tool in cleaning chairs of car?

texts: The tool is here in action in one user's Instagram video. It is some sort of vacuum machine. However, my normal vacuum cleaner is not so powerful. I am not sure if there is any chemicals used in such a cleaning procedure because I have never managed to clean such a way.


texts: Why won't my garage door remote work unless I push the button to turn off the light first?

texts:
If I trip the sensor by driving the car outside, the light goes on. The remote won't work. If I then go in the garage and push the button to turn on the light and then leave the garage without tripping the sensor, the remote functions normally.

This is a Chamberlain Lift Master using a Clicker remote. The problem started recently after 15 years of faultless service. The EMF idea suggested in comments sounded great, but didn't pan out. I tried a new battery, but no luck there. In short, when the door opener light is on, the remote won't work. When it's off, the remote works fine.


texts:
I need to create a "thumb screw" or "hand wheel" out of a 1/2-20 UNF threaded rod to serve as fine linear adjustment screw for a heavy load.  (I can't find ready-made knobs with this thread, nor thumb screws in any reasonable length.)

I have hex nuts matching the threads, so I can use two nuts to "thread-lock" the cut end of the rod.  But how can I attach an extended knob or handle to the nuts so that I can easily turn the rod when it's under a load?


texts: Is there a standard for how many screws should be used to secure a single floor cabinet to the wall, per linear foot of the width of the cabinet? E.g. if I only have one 2x4 available behind a 30" wide cabinet, is that not sufficient?


texts: Repairing small damage to outside corners. Plaster walls.

texts: I'm thinking of using bondo. Is there a less-complex way to do it. I'm concerned that regular plaster material will fall off.


texts: What is this gray thing thing on a main water line right after it comes into house?

texts:
What is this gray thing thing on a main water line - right after it comes into house?

Edit:
this is private well, I should have clarified.


texts: Is it against NEC code to re-use pulled cable?

texts:
I'm re-wiring parts of my house and have pulled some 12/2 out. Is it against NEC code to re-use that cable?

I didn't have to pull that hard to get the cable out and there doesn't appear to be any surface damage or major bends. The cable is twelve years old from the time the house was built.


texts:
I cannot seem to get this plastic pipe elbow (pictured below) off. It joins a plastic pipe to an outside tap and the elbow has a crack in.

I've tried twisting, pulling and pushing it - but it won't budge. Is there some special tool I need, or perhaps it needs squeezing with pliers whilst being twisted?


texts: Central air conditioning system isn't working

texts:
Ok, so I have done all the research I can and nothing is working. About 3 weeks ago my A/C was running fine nice and cold no issues. Came home to a house that was 97 degrees inside and started immediatly looking at stuff and calling friends.

The next day I went outside and the box that connects the A/C unit and inside wires was missing its breaker panel thingy. I replaced the whole box with a GE one that says it can use fuses or not use them model number TF60RCP (Home Depot). I triple checked to make sure it was wired correctly and it is. I flipped every single breaker on and off. The A/C breaker shuts off whatever makes noise in my basement, but the outside system makes no noise at all period and the fan does not spin period.

The batteries in my thermostat are fine.. but I read that if I switch the thermostat to off between heat and cold then switch the other switch from auto to run... and the thing that makes a blowing noise in my basements comes on then maybe my thermostat is bad. I took my thermostat off and it has a black switch on it that says (gas or electric) Tried switching that switch and still nothing. Can someone please help me! :(


texts: Should my mirror fog up when showering with a proper exhaust fan running?

texts:
I run the exhaust fan when showering but even so, the mirror fogs up completely. Is this an indication that the fan is not sized or functioning correctly? Or is this expected behavior, as no exhaust fan could keep up with that amount of humidity put into the air that fast?

The mirror is right outside the shower, as is the exhaust fan, but I've seen this happen when the mirror is farther away from the shower and/or around a corner.


texts: How much movement is normal after mounting a TV on partition wall?

texts:
I have a wall that's made of plasterboards mounted on metal studs. I have mounted two DVD cabinets (each 22kg) and an LCD TV (40kg).

To mount all this, I installed 6mm thick MDF panels across 5 of the metal studs using 15 self-tapping screws per panel (3 per stud), through the existing 12mm plasterboards and into the studs.

+-+---------+-+
| |         | |
| +---------+ |
| |         | |
| +---------+ <-(a)
| |         | |
| +---------+ |
+-------------+

The top panel supports the cabinets, with 3 hollow wall anchors going through the MDF and the drywall, two on each side and one in the middle.

The middle panel supports the TV mount, with 4 hollow wall anchors. The look a bit like this, but much longer (the head part before the extending part being 18mm).

That means that both the TV and the DVD cabinets are putting load on both the plasterboard and the MDF, which theoretically means the load should be evenly distributed.

This has all been assembled and mounted a few days ago.

The wall is seeing some movement, the right-most plasterboard has moved forward around the (a) point by about 2mm, which is also the distance between the bend and the corner of the wall.

By my calculations, with the load evenly distributed across 5 studs, that's 16 kilos per stud, plus the MDF weight (183x183x0.6 at roughly 700kg per cubic meter), thats 18 kilos per stud.

I think the bulging is mostly due to the right-most plasterboard bulging under the pull from the bolts and the MDF being thin enough to deform as well, but that the load is still taken by the studs and there should be no fundamental structural issues.

Can those metal studs take 18kilos each? Is the bulging a worrying sign? How much movement is normal as the wall adjusts to the additional weight? And have I missed something fundamental in this installation?


texts:
I am working on a DIY wood project and want to bend a piece of wood similar to the curves seen here by the artist Gustav Reyes, who is known for his jewelry pieces such as this finger ring:

Click photo for more examples

How does one go about bending a piece of wood like this?


texts:
I have a 3/8 OD (I believe) water supply line coming out of a T-connection in my kitchen - one line services the cold water for the sink faucet and the other goes to the fridge.

I would like to cap the line that goes to the fridge/ice maker (but I don't want to remove the T all together because I want to preserve the option for later).

I went to the hardware store and was directed to the compression cap in the photo but this doesn't feel like the right solution.  I would be tremendously appreciative for thoughts on:

-Is this the right solution?

-Should I be worried that it just metal on metal without a washer or anything else to seat the cap?

-Should I use teflon tape?

-Someone mentioned that this item was not to be used solo but rather with a ferrule.  Do you agree?  How would that work?

-The packaging is unintelligible to me - it says to "fit nut onto tubing and then insert sleeve" and "insert tubing into fitting."  I don't know what this is referring to but it leads me to think that this is not designed for the use I have in mind.

I am very nervous about water leaks and want to take the most judicious approach.

TL:DR version:
We don't use the ice maker in the fridge and the current water supply line going to the fridge is rusty and not looking good.  Rather than replacing the line (I also fear that my freezer might have a small leak in the line but that is for another post) I figure capping it is the best way to avoid possible leaks in the line or a leak in a line once the water enters the fridge.  Also, I don't want to remove the T-connection that splits the main cold water line to the sink and the fridge because we may be getting a new fridge and we may want to use the ice maker then...  Are there other clever solutions to this problem?


texts: Wiring Diagram for bedroom needed.  I will have one ceiling fan with light controlled by a three way switch then from the ceiling fan unit need power for two independent switches to control led light strips in two seperate closets. attached below is what I am thinking but I need advice / second opinion on the best and code compliant method to wire this room. I have access from attic to drop down wires where need be. I  need closet lights to be able to come on or off regardless of whether or not the ceiling fan light is on or off. Need help as soon as possible with any ideas.  All lighting will be LED and eventually be using a smart home system.  thanks for your cooperation and assistance in advance.


texts:
We bought a bunk bed and installed both of them on the floor. Through extensive kid use, the partial-length side rail worked loose -- twice. I suspect that the bunk ladder would have provided more support.  As you might be able to see in the picture, I already tried adding screws, but it wasn't enough.

I found this diy article about a loose side bar, and Ecnerwal's answer, but I don't think the frame of the bed has enough thickness for the bed bolt. At least that's a better idea than my first one, which was a thru-bolt -- there's not enough room on the inside of the bed frame before the mattress.

My latest idea is a metal bracket that would wrap around the vertical post and screw to the frame on either side. I don't have a vise to bend something, though. Are there joist hangers small enough? Would small L brackets be enough?

Updated:
I used carriage bolts at @mazura's suggestion, and fender washers on either side of the wood rail, ending in a basic hex nut. Got all the hardware for $2!

Before:

After:


texts: Should my furnace closet have this huge duct opening into the unconditioned vented attic?

texts:
So my interior furnace closet has a huge duct in it that connects the closet to the unconditioned vented attic right above it. Needless to say, this is a huge air leak into the conditioned part of the house and a major source of air infiltration into the house, especially today when there were 60 MPH winds. I'm no HVAC tech, but this seems highly problematic. If it's a duct designed to pull in outside combustion and dilution air, it represents a gaping hole in the conditioned thermal envelope, as the furnace closet is not even remotely insulated from the rest of the conditioned space.

The furnace is a huge 125,000 BTU model that's grossly oversized for the house's 1,100 square foot interior. Is that why it requires this huge duct to pull in outside air? There's such a volume of air coming down through that duct into the house when the furnace isn't running that I think it's even passing through the furnace filter and through the return air plenum which is right below the furnace.

What are my options here? Am I stuck with adding weatherstripping to the furnace door and sealing up air leaks from the furnace closet into the rest of the house? The return air plenum itself is a big air leak...


texts: Should I have my old ceiling vacuumed before installing insulation?

texts: My house (built about 1890) has no insulation in the roof and so I plan to put in insulating batts.  There is a lot of old dust and a few possum droppings up there, and I have heard that the dust can contain lead from the leaded-petrol days.  Should I get someone out with one of those big roof vacuums to clean it up before adding the batts?


texts:
In our new house the master bedroom is on the upper level and has a chimney running through the room from the living room below. It's painted brick and all 4 sides are exposed (you can walk around it). We thought it might be a good idea to mount a tv on it so we can see it from our bed.

We haven't committed to anything yet. It will likely be a smaller TV especially since, unfortunately, it's the narrow side of the chimney that faces us. The fireplace in the living room is bricked up and simply decorative now, but I believe the water heater and the furnace may still be vented into this chimney. The house was build in the 1920's and I assume the chimney has always been there.

What would be a good way to mount a TV in such a situation? I'm a little leery of drilling into the chimney and was wonder if there is something that would wrap around it to support the TV. We will run cables down from the ceiling.


texts: Grounding a sub panel in separate building

texts: There are many posts everywhere about this, but I'm still not clear on one thing. I have a separate building about 90 feet from the house where a buried 10-2 UF cable (2 conductors and a ground wire) supplies 110v electricity for lighting and receptacles. I am going to install a sub panel in that building and convert from 110v to 220v so I can install multiple circuits, one being 220v and 3 110v. So, in the 10-2 UF supply cable, I will use the white and black wires as conductors, and the ground wire as neutral. There are no other connections, pipes, telephone lines etc. between the buildings. I understand I must install a ground rod at the outbuilding to properly ground the subpanel. In the subpanel, should the ground bus and neutral bus be connected?


texts: How can I remove scratches from glass table?

texts:
I have large glass table and it's acquired some scratches over time.
How can I remove or soften scratches on my glass table top?


texts:
Our wood deck is only a few years old, and has taken quite a beating from the weather. We just moved in, and I'm not sure if the previous owners have taken care of it properly.

On our old house's wooden deck, every two years I would powerwash and sand it down, and then seal with Thompson's clear water seal or something similar.

This new deck has been treated with Behr DeckPlus Solid Color Waterproofing Woodstain. It says it should last five years, but it clearly hasn't.

What's my best option to prep the deck? Same thing as before powerwash and sand, then let it dry out?

What are some options to seal it? Are there any products that produce almost a vinyl-like coating, effectively turning the wood deck into something similar to a composite?


texts: Is it possible to shorten the flue/chimney of a range hood?

texts:
We are replacing our OTR microwave with a more efficient hood.

The microwave hung under a top cabinet, with about 62" of clearance from stove to bottom of top cabinet.

Is there a way to shorten the flue of a range hood if it comes with one slightly longer than permits by height?


texts:
I unplugged my refrigerator without turning it off.  Now it won't come back on.  The light works however, the compressor does not.  Will it ever come back on or should I just throw it out.  I've only had it for about 18 months purchased new.
Thanks for you help.


texts:
Is there a way to prevent damage to your pipes from a water pressure spike from the city supply? In my case, sweated and threaded copper, no PTC.

It seems like a large water hammer arrester anywhere in the system would do that, but I also have never heard of something like that.


texts: How can I safely work in my attic without a floor in place?

texts:
Is there a picture that can I go up to the Attic. I am not familiar about it and how do I walk on the ones you don't want to fall on the drywall ?

I went up to the attic entrance and took these pictures from it but I did not walk. I want to see what it looks like and it has foams that is whole bunch of it from there. The only area doesn't have these in the Garage which is behind me.

I live in Colorado and I believe the builders put them there to protect from the cold winters we have here...

This is all new to me and it is first time I am going to have to deal with this and I am not very expert in this area. I grew up in hot weather and we dont have to deal with it when I was a kid.

I'd like to get some tips or advice on what should I do ?

I have include the pictures to share with you.


texts: Hello I hooked up a new ceiling light, There are 3 different color wires. Red,Black,and white, 2 of each color wire. I wired each color wire to there self and then wired the light wires (copper color) to them. There are 2 light switches in my house that operate this light. One light switch works great. but the other when turned on trips the breaker. I'm going to replace the breaker switch soon, but if that does not work, how should I wire the light?


texts: How do i hang shelving on drywall over concrete

texts: i do know that there is concrete behind the drywall because it is a fire wall. I cannot drill into it for obvious reasons not to mention, the owner wont allow it. Any ides? thanks. Lewis


texts: I live with my family but I dnt like hot weather, is it ok to seal a vent?

texts: I live with my family but I do not like hot weather. Thus is it ok to seal the vent in the below part?


texts: New plumbing - Lose Water Pressure in Outdoor Hose

texts:
First time soldering plumbing.  Replaced shut-off and new frost free bib.  The water pressure in house is normal.  When I use the hose it spurts out water normally with good pressure then 2 seconds later there is pressure loss where it just pours out.
I checked the frost bib and stem is okay.  Checked the plumbing connections with paper towel around and no leaks but i noticed that there was dripping water from the top of the shut-off where the nut is.  Does anyone know why this is happening?  Do i need to replace the shut off again because it is faulty?
At the plumbing when hose is activated i notice good pressure to start then it sort of sucks back and then little to no pressure?


texts: I need a tool that hogs off stock to fix the side of a panel

texts:
I need to fix a panel and this is exactly what I need but i don't know what its called. Can someone help me out?

https://youtu.be/teQYBrA7sX0?t=3m50s


texts: Is a bathroom required by code to have a window or exhaust fan?

texts: The Fort Lauderdale, Florida unit is on the top floor and there is a duct for the unit's central air in the bathroom, but it doesn't have a window or exhaust fan. Is this not to code? What are my options if an exhaust duct isn't available or the association doesn't allow installing one? The condo has been completely remodeled and I'm afraid the bathroom (or the rest of the unit if I have to leave the door open) will get ruined in no time without a proper exhaust for steam, since the weather here is already constantly humid.


texts: Help me identify neutral, hot, traveller wire from 3 way switch

texts:
I'd like to replace my kitchen ceiling light switches with smart switches.

Currently there are 2 switches controlling the lights, one in kitchen and one next to stairs. But I failed to identify the neutral, hot and traveler wires.

The 3-way smart switches I bought comes in pair of two units. Each unit has 1 ground, 1 neutral, 1 load out and 2 travellers, as shown below:

The switch in the kitchen has 4 wires connected: AAA,BBB,CCC,DDD:

The switch in the stairway has 3 wires connected: HHH,KKK,SSS:

I first replaced only the stairway switch like so:

SSS = neutral, HHH = load, KKK = 1 of the traveler ---> didn't work

Then I tried to keep stairway switch as-is (original), and only replaced the kitchen switch. I tried:

AAA and BBB = traveller, CCC = load, DDD = neutral --> didn't work

AAA and BBB = traveller, DDD = load, CCC = neutral --> didn't work

I'm very confused.. could anyone help me identify AAA, BBB, CCC, DDD, HHH, KKK, SSS wires? Any help is appreciated! Thanks


texts: How to replace Blender's Drive Coupling?

texts:
I am in need to replace the drive coupling of a blender, Breville BBL605.
The drive coupling looks some thing like this :

I watched a video on youtube for a similar looking blender :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTH3g-jVUtg

From the video, it doesn't look exactly like the drive coupling on the Breville and also I have no idea how the guy figured it was a left handed thread. The presenter also doesn't show if the drive spins clockwise and anti-clockwise freely as the Breville's does. Since the Breville's drive coupling freely spins in both directions, I think this videos approach may not work.

How can I go about replacing the drive coupling of this blender ?


texts: Exterior Wall - Stacking Fiberglass insulation and Mineral Wool insulation

texts:
I am in the process of finishing my unfinished basement and had a question about stacking insulation.
When framing the basement we realized we have alot of areas which have about 6~ inches of extra space we could utilize for more insulation (see image). I figured this would be a great opportunity to add some mineral wool insulation for the added r-value and its sound proofing benefits.
If I were to add mineral wool insulation on top of my existing fiberglass insulation (on the exterior wall) what do I do with the vapor barrier (i.e: The paper back on the fiberglass)?

Is it okay if the paperback on the fiberglass is now behind the mineral wool?
Can I remove the vapor barrier on the fiberglass and have the mineral wool act as a barrier?

Any advice would be great - I am concerned about trapping moisture.
Additional Notes:

I live in Virgina
The home is split level so the exterior walls are barely "underground"


texts: Waterproofing bathroom register for heating and cooling

texts:
Installing hardibacker and had a quick question while cutting out the hole for the HVAC register.  The toilet, as I understand it, gets caulked around the base. So no special water proofing is needed.  However, the register, I'm not so sure. I also can't find mention of it elsewhere on the internet.

So my questions are as follows:

Do I need to do any special waterproofing for the air register on the floor?
Do I use the mesh tape and/or the red guard waterproofing around this area?

My main concern is water going under the sides of the register, then getting to the hardibacker that way, as the tile doesn't go down the side of the register.

Any help is appreciated.  Thanks.


texts: Would an opening to the outside help me dry out a basement?

texts: I had a hot tub problem which resulted in huge amounts of water gushing out into the yard.  This happened a couple of times.  (Hot tub repair company from hell.)  The hot tub is situated a few feet from the house.  The ground is still saturated like a dripping sponge.  As a result the walls and floor or the unfinished cellar, which does have a functioning sump pump, has not dried out yet, several months later.  I have tried running a dehumidifier, a fan and a space heater in the cellar, but that hasn't helped a whole lot.  I suspect it's because there is no window I can open down there.  Would it help to create a small temporary opening to the outside?  Which I would close up once I've accomplished the mission.


texts:
Which is a better option between Aluminum flashing v/s Copper flashing ? Just spoke to a roofing company, they said copper flashing may spoil/change color of shingles (due to rain) and aluminum flashing may be better option. Not sure how true this is.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.


texts: Can a smoke detector circuit be GFCI and CAFCI protected?

texts: I purchased a dual GFCI/CAFCI circuit breaker to place on my circuit that contains only smoke, CO, and heat detectors inside my house. Is there anything wrong with this or can I install it to have both types of protection?


texts: Can vertical window be installed horizontally?

texts: I have a double-paned window that is not designed to open. It is 7' x 1'. The weep holes are in the 1' end. Can this window be installed horizontally?


texts: How should I treat and store an unused water heater to protect it?

texts:
We have turned off one of our gas water heaters because we simply have low demand. What we wonder about is how to treat the mothballed heater? Should we leave the water in it? switch between water heaters monthly or at all?   What problems with the water itself will occur if we do not use a water heater?

What is the best scheme to keep the unused heater in good shape so as to be a replacement should the other heater fail?
Thanks for  your help,
E. Underwood


texts: Should I use primer alone first, or can I use paint+primer on renovated/patched walls?

texts:
I have a number of walls that have a mix of old lath+plaster and new drywall (parts of walls are plaster, other parts new drywall).  The old plaster walls have paint on them but they have not been painted in a long time (like 6 years).

I am aware that there is Glidden Duo primer+paint mix which saves time (2 vs total of 4 coats with priming and painting separately).  However, given the nature of the walls and the integration of the old and new technologies, as well as the fact that the old parts already do have paint but the old ones do not, I am not sure if I can go with Duo or if I should prime it first and then paint it.


texts:
My house is in CA (USA, we don't have many stroms / heavy winds) and i am undergoing a re-roofing project. House is about ~65 year old the current "plank decking" looks in decent condition.
Is it a good idea to put a OSB on top of it to make it a "SOLID SHEATHING" before putting the singles ?
My roofing contractor told that very few people chooses that option (1/100) or so.
Cost of adding OSB (solid sheathing) is ~20% higher (2K $). Is it worth the investment?
I already have adequate attic insulation and my question is primary related to longevity of the new roof.


texts: Please help establishing a C wire for new tstat

texts:
I bought a new WiFi tstat as a replacement. The tstat controls my second floor hot water baseboard heat and my central air conditioning.  I've located all the wires....the ones coming up from the boiler, and the ones coming down from the ac unit in the attic (which also has wiring from the outside compressor).  I have attached pictures.  When I pulled the current tstat off the wall, I noticed in addition to the 3 other wires in use coming out of the cable,  there is a blue wire coming out that is unused and wrapped around the sheathing.

The red, green, and yellow wires that come out of this air conditioning cable go to the respective Rc, G, and Y terminals on the current tstat. I followed the cable up to the air cond unit and saw that the blue wire is wrapped around the cable at the unit too.  So how do I get this blue wire connected so I can use this new WiFi tstat?

There are other cables up at the air cond unit shown in the marked up pic attached.:
- the gray cable is coming in from a flood detector in the air cond unit's tray.
- the other white cable is coming in from the compressor outside.

The other red and white wires seen at the tstat (W and R) are obviously the wires for the gas boiler/heat.


texts: What type of material should I use for a shelf over a washer and dryer?

texts:
building a shelf to go over my washer dryer in our laundry room.  it will be 88" wide by 34" deep.  I've already mounted 2x4's on the walls across back and sides.

looking for advice on what material to use for the shelf?  considering melamine for the smooth finish or plywood.  can anyone recommend one or the other.  planning to put a support frame in the middle.


texts: How can I remove the drain flange from the drain assembly?

texts: From picture 1, it looks like the flange can be separated from the drain body. In picture 2 while holding the drain body from the bottom of the sink, I tried to remove the flange with a plier by twisting the flange counterclockwise. The flange did not budge. In picture 3, it shows that there’s a protrusion for the lift rod that prevents me from lifting the drain body straight up. I don’t have a power saw. It seems impossible to remove the drain body and put in a new one. What can I do at this point?


texts: Installing a 4 wire timer on a 3 way/3 wire outlet

texts: I want to control an outside light with an inside timer switch. This is on a 3 way switch arrangement. The new timer has 4 wires(B/W/R and Green) and the feed only has 3(B/W/R). The diagram shows the green and red are both "travelers", Do they both get connected to the red feed? What arrangement should I use?


texts:
The goal is to correctly diagnose from the device's fault codes and determine corrective action.

A SB6000U Sunny Boy inverter returns energy into the electric grid: reducing the electric bill significantly. The system has stopped returning into the grid.

Photos of the inverter error messages were snapped:

From the animation video: I think normal operations is represented in this diagram:

Is the inverter error messages represented with the following diagram:

Fuse blown:

Any tips for identifying exactly where the ground fault is introduced is appreciated.


texts: Garage roller shutter door opening by itself

texts:
It has a remote control switch and brand is Centurion Australia.
I closed but it opens by itself after few hours.

I recently tried to add a duplicate remote key but that was incompatible and so the coding failed. Initially I thought it was due to that, so removed the batteries from it . But this also doesn't fix the issue

Any ideas?? Thanks


texts:
I have just bought a house from the 40s. It is an Art Deco style place that used to have a flat roof but has had a pitched iron roof added some time in the 60s.

One of the conditions of sale from the bank was that we replace the roof within 3 months. I don't really have the money to do it, so I'm interested in finding out what is involved to work out if I could do it myself to save money.

I know there would be removing old iron, laying new paper, cutting new iron and securing it on again, plus the spines and guttering is another story... Is there anything I'm missing?

Is this a job I can do piece by piece over a few weeks or should it all be done at once?

I'm reasonably handy and hope to do a lot of the work in the new place myself, but I'm not a builder.


texts: How can I cover the hole left by removing a kitchen wall fan?

texts: We had an old exhaust fan that vented out through the kitchen wall.  We removed it and drywalled over the hole, but are unsure how to cover the hole in the exterior siding.  Is there a cover for this or do we need to re-side the area?


texts:
What is the best way to repeat a screen (HDMI) on two different devices without losing signal strength?

Ex Projector screen and TV, one receiver, one input, without losing picture quality.

I have a receiver that has one output, but I have two different devices that I want to use at any given time. Both are use 50ft HDMI cables that I manually unplug and plug depending on the screen I want to watch something on (movie vs news... sounds insane I know)

I see there are HDMI splitters out there but wasn't sure if that is the most optimal route or if there is a better option.

Any help would be greatly appreciated


texts: Do wires running attached to joists need to be protected?

texts: So after asking How to build a wall under duct work ,I was thinking of going the #2 route and running a top plate next to the existing wire.  Now, I've seen that when running wires through studs, you need a nailing plate if the wire is closer than 1-1/4" to the outside.  In this case, I would think that I'd be fine, but what if I were to instead go with a different solution and use some hat channel to fur down the ceiling.  Would I need to protect that wire and gas line somehow from stuff coming through the drywall ceiling (however unlikely that might be)?


texts: What is this construction material under my drywall?

texts:
I'm trying to understand the construction of a wall in my basement in order to determine how best to attach French cleat hangers to it. The studs I have been able to find with my stud finder have appeared to be irregular distances apart (anywhere from 6" to 26") so I suspected something unusual was behind the drywall.

Taking off a section of drywall revealed this. It is some kind of fairly crumbly 1/2" thick cement board over what appears to be plywood. The hole in the lower right was already there when I took the drywall off, though I enlarged it a bit to expose the plywood behind.

My first question is: what is this material?

Second: it clearly has no structural value given how crumbly it is (I can break off pieces with my finger), so there must be studs behind it. I think it is playing tricks on my stud finder. Any suggestions for locating the studs beyond drilling a bunch of holes?

EDIT: I was able to look at a different part of the wall via the access panel for our water shut-off valve. I think I was mistaken, and this is actually a layer of plaster with the old lath and plaster behind it. As you can see, in this section of the basement a new stud wall was put up in front of the lath and plaster. It appears in the original photo that the drywall has been attached directly to the plaster on top of the old wall. Is this going to cause me problems in the future?


texts: Why have my LED bulbs started flashing when I turn them off?

texts:
I have six LED bulbs in my flat. They’re all the same model (LE 10W A60, bayonet fitting), and they were all purchased at the same time – September 2014. I bought them as a set of five and a single, but I don’t remember how they were divvied up among my fittings.

All of the bulbs are connected to on-off light switches. I don’t know exactly how the flat is wired – in particular, I don’t know which bulbs are on the same circuit.

In the last few weeks, three of the bulbs have been playing up. When I turn them off at the switch, they turn off, and then flash one to three times before actually going dark.

Any ideas what could be causing it? Is it something I should be worried about?

I looked at some of the other questions about LED lights flashing, but all those problems seemed to occur straight after the bulbs were installed. Mine have been working fine (i.e. not flashing) for over a year – it’s only recently they’ve developed a problem.


texts: Can i use air filter that is one inch smaller

texts:
Currently, i have a 16x25x1 filter in my furnace/ac duct (probably a better term out there).

I am at the local store and they seem to be all sold of all brands of 16x25x1. They do however have an extensive selection of 16x24x1.

Would using the 1 inch smaller be ok or could this be detrimental to my furnace/health? Thank you


texts: Why do I have a large PVC pipe venting warm air outside intermittently?

texts:
There is a large PVC pipe (3 actually) which vent air intermittently.  I started noticing I could see steam rising over my deck in the morning and then I found that these pipes vent air at least a couple times per hour.

What is the purpose of this venting?  I'm concerned about efficiency.

Bonus: When the pipes are venting it is fairly noisy.  When we're on our deck we can hear it and it's annoying.  Any way to muffle this noise without impacting the operation?


texts:
For environmental and cost reasons, I'd like to use my AC unit less. In situations where passive cooling is not practical, I am trying to determine the most efficient way to do this. (I believe the unit is a Trane XR14 heat pump, installed 2009.)

My fiancee and I live in a brick ranch house with a brown roof, about 1,200 sq feet. We live outside Philadelphia, so during the summer it can consistently get above 90. During the day, when we are at work, I close the windows and shades and set the AC high (80 F). I keep it on when we're gone because we have two cats and a dog. I get home around 5:20 PM. At night, it will eventually get below 80 outside. At this point, I am trying to determine which is more efficient: to set the house to the expected night temperature (expecting that the cooler air will be trapped in the house and keep the AC from triggering more frequently during the night after the initial run down to, for example, 77, and taking longer to turn on the next day) or keep it at the current interior temperature (to reduce the time the AC runs at night).

A concrete example: let's say it gets to 77 outside and the house is 80. Would it use less total energy to set the AC to 77 or 80? My goal is to use the least amount of energy possible in order to lower the monthly electric bill.

Lots of people have mentioned comfort vis a vis humidity, but for the purposes of the question, I'm more concerned about cost as I'm pretty heat acclimated and I can just run a small bedside fan if it gets too gross at night.


texts: I am trying to incorporate my outdoor flood lights with motions sensors into my home automation system.  Specifically, I would like to sense when the lights come on to trigger other home automation actions.  I thought an RF switch that provides line state to the server may work best.  Any thoughts or better ideas?


texts:
My backyard has existing copper pipes outside that I want to reroute.   To keep like with like, I'll just continue using copper.  Are there any considerations or special types that I need to be aware of?  Specifically, is there a special type of pipe that is better suited for outside conditions.

No snow or freezing temps here.


texts: Insulation from electric meter to panel is rotting

texts:
The electric line in from my meter to my panel is rotting, or rather the insulation is.  See this picture (below).  Is there some product I can purchase to temporarily wrap it until I can get it completely replaced by an actual electrician?  I thought I had found a 3M product, Scotch cable jacket repair.  But not sure if that applies.

Any advice is appreciated.


texts:
(I first apologize for my lack of knowledge on correct names and terms.)
The other day, I wanted to change a light bulb and the inside metal part of the socket came undone with the bulb. How can I fix it back in its place?
(a maybe-relevant info: the socket is ceramic)


texts: How to get a granite counter top with sink off a wooden bathroom vanity

texts: I have a standard 37" x 22" granite top with sink on top of a typical bathroom vanity. The sink is cracked and a corner on the top is knocked off. I've found many tops with sink available that will fit perfectly, but I do not know how to get the old top off. I have of course tried to pull up but it's stuck on there so that didn't work. There are no screws or bolts holding it either. Since i want to preserve the vanity I can't just pry it off with some sort of crowbar.  Anyone got good ideas in this regard or do I have to replace the vanity also?


texts:
I have a standard circuit with a 3-way switch on each end and one 4-way switch in the middle. Will it work if I run power to the 4 way switch instead of one of the 3-way switches?  The light is also connected to the 4-way switch.

[UPDATE]
Before I have to fire up paint and draw something see if this helps:

Current setup:

12/3 wire: 3waySwitch -> 4waySwitch -> 3waySwitch.
12/2 wire: power -> 4waySwitch -> light bulb

I have a light fixture coming off the 4wayswitch.  Can I bring power to the 4waySwitch instead of one of the 3waySwitches like it's typically done?  This is new construction and I already ran the wire.  I haven't tested it because the power is not live.  I could re-run the power wire if I have to.  The question is, do I have to?

The goal of course is to allow all 3 switches to turn the light off/on (goes without saying).


texts: Do I need mortar between 1x6 deck boards and cement board?

texts:
I have a screened and roofed porch/lanai. Original floor is pressure treated posts, beams, joists and 1x6 decking. Former owner decided they wanted tile. They screwed a plywood underpayment over the decking, then laid mastic and tile. At some point, they drilled some holes through the grout so any rainwater that blew in could easily drain. Well, it drained down into the plywood and decking, causing rot.

I have removed the tile and rotted plywood and repaired damage to the subfloor (the original pressure treated decking). I want to put down a travertine floor. My plan was to screw Hardy cement backer board to the subfloor, then apply a waterproof membrane (such as Schluter), then mastic/tile. I want to ensure the floor is completely waterproof and there is no way for water to reach the subfloor or joists.

Do I need to attach the cement board with thinset in addition to screws? And if so, Do I need to put something over the original 1x6 decking before attaching the cement board? I can’t imagine putting thinset on the 1x6’s. I would hope that laying a waterproof membrane over the entire floor would alleviate the need to tape the joints.


texts: How do I hook up a water line to the ice-maker on my old Frigidaire fridge?

texts: I am trying to hook up the ice maker for an old Frigidaire fridge, but there is no line running out of the back. When I opened the access panel I found the water valve but unlike newer water valves there is a screw on port that is about an inch wide. Does anyone know what to do?


texts: How to add a C-wire to Weil McLain Boiler

texts: I am having trouble installing a new wireless thermostat to my existing Weil McLain boiler.  My existing control wire utilized an Rh and W on the thermostat, but utilized the Y and G terminals on the boiler itself.  The installation manuals indicate I need to connect a new C-Wire from the C terminal from the boiler to their c terminal on the thermostat and reconnect the other wires as is, but that doesn’t work.  Do I need to relocate the wire on the Y terminal to the R terminal or am I missing something else?


texts: Can I use primers from different paint companies in the same room?

texts: I have two partial cans of older primer along with a full can of new primer. I'm going to paint a room. Can I use all of the primer cans for the project, or should I only use the same primer throughout?


texts: GFCI Breaker Serving GFCI Receptacles Tripping in Extreme Fog and Cold

texts:
Lately, I have had an issue where sometime during the night the main GFCI breaker would trip.

The only thing different on the nights that this happened was that one of the nights was (1) extremely cold, and the other night was (2) extremely foggy.

Circuit Design & Load: Not all receptacles on the circuit are GFCI, as some are located inside an enclosed outbuilding.  The entire circuit is very lightly loaded with a few LED lights and IP cameras, drawing at most 7 amps.

Why GFCI Receptacles on GFCI Circuit?  The entire circuit is on a GFCI breaker at the main panel that also serves a pool sub-panel.  Installing GFCI receptacles was purely in preparation for offloading those structures to a new service in the near future.

Further examination identified that the GFCI main breaker was tripped, however, none of the individual GFCI receptacles were tripped nor was the standard 15A breaker in the subpanel that serves the outbuildings.

Is it possible that the extreme cold or higher moisture content contributed to the main GFCI breaker tripping, or furthermore that the dual layer of GFCIs are causing conflict in this environment?

Update: There is also an APC BackUPS that is on one of the non-GFCI receptacles.  I cannot rule out that it is doing a self-test when the GFCI breaker trips.


texts: What is the proper tool to take out the hook buried inside a garage spring

texts:
my garage door is broken and I found out that one end of the spring was broken. I can picture the moment that when it was happening, the spring bounced back to the other end where there is a iron hook, as a result, the hook was sucked deep into the spring, as you can see in the picture below. It struck there so deep that it can't be extracted with bare hands. Two solutions in my mind:

Solution#1: I dumped these two all together and buy new spring and hook;

Solution#2: find a right tool to extract the hook out of the spring.

In the 2nd solution, anyone can help to recommend some good extract tools exactly for this purpose?


texts: Can drywall cover a 30" span on the ceiling?

texts:
These rafters span 30". Do you think I can hang 1/2" over this span or should I go 5/8"

Or go extreme and run 2x4's perpendicular, 24" OC?


texts: Is an air gap required for our new Kinetico water softener?

texts: We're having a Kinetico water softener system installed today. They're planning on running the drain tube down the wash drain. We're a little concerned because they're not establishing an air gap but they're telling us the air gap is on the system and that this is how they do it nationwide. Anyone have any experience with these sytems? Is this true? If not, is there a way to fix this ourselves?


texts: Can a green wire be used as hot if it's reidentified?

texts: Say you have a whip with red, black, green, and white wires. Three hot conductors are needed. Does it satisfy national code if you use the green wire as a hot connection and label both ends as "HOT" using electrical tape?


texts: how do I keep leaves and foreign objects out of the top of my a/c unit?

texts: Is it possible to make a lid that is light enough for the air coming off the fan to raise it attached with hinges so it drops back down when not in use. This would keep debris from getting inside, yet still be strong enough to close and protect the unit.


texts: Vanity countertop support for piece over toilet

texts:
I was looking at some photos from model homes and like the vanity countertop cut:

How do they support the stone where it goes out to the top of the toilet tank?

I don't see anything below the stone to support it in that area.

Would it be OK like that where it is "floating"?


texts: Spanning a Gap Between House and Garage with Chain Link

texts:
I bought this house a few years ago and the previous owner decided that this embarrassment was the best addition for this garage.
Needless to say, it's horrendous and I want to take it off. (and the rest of the garage will be updated as well) No problem. The overhang is staying. The concrete pad is staying for now too. However, I'll have a gap between the chain link and the actual side of the garage. This is a problem because I have a dog that likes to escape.
My question is; Will I be able to span that space with a section of chain link and attach it to the side of the actual garage without having to put in a post?
I really don't want to have to cut through the concrete to put in a post.


texts: Are 6 volt fluctuations in a 120 volt home outlet harmful to equipment?

texts:
I live in an older house in New England. I bought an UPS (uninterruptible power supply) to plug my computer into.
This particular UPS has an input and output voltage reader on it. I notice when my window AC unit and my computer are running, the input voltage on my UPS can go down to 118 V, then back up to 122 V five minutes later, then back to 120 V. I have about 5 people living in the house. Mainly these fluctuations happen in the summertime when the power grid is already under stress.
So my overall question is, will a ±3 V fluctuation be harmful to my equipment? Is it bad to have that much fluctuation?


texts: Is this degree of lifting/rippling normal for a newly installed roof?

texts:
Had a roof replacement done recently including new underlayment, architectural shingles, and flashing.
I'm noticing a number of red flags such as visible/exposed keyways between shingles.
However, one element I'm unsure about is the amount of rippling and ease with which shingles can be lifted. To my untrained eye this looks subpar and susceptible to lifting from wind.
From the video, should I be able to lift up shingles this easily? It takes next to no effort to lift the shingles up several inches off the roof.
In addition to the lifting, the rippling that I'm talking about can be better seen in the image linked.
Image:

https://imagebin.ca/v/5iVHFYEJVl4i

Video:

https://vimeo.com/483346754
https://vimeo.com/483346752

[I would upload these to diy.stackexchange.com directly, but they exceed the file size limit.]


texts: Hybrid 1ph/3ph load center fed by rotary phase converter?

texts:
Disclaimer: Please do not get hung up on whether anything discussed in this question is up to code. I am concerned with safety, and I'm familiar with electrical dangers and safe working practices.

I am planning on building a new workshop and most of my equipment is single phase 120V or 240V but several pieces are 240V 3-phase.

I am wondering if I can install a 3-phase load center, where L1 and L3 are fed by the mains 1ph legs and L2 is fed by the generated phase from the rotary phase converter.

The objective would be to run 120V / 208V branch circuits from 'always-on' phases of the panel, with 3-phase breakers only being fully energized when the RPC was running.

My fallback, of course, is to simply feed a smaller separate 3ph panel with the RPC and use a normal 1-phase panel to feed the majority of the workshop branch circuits.


texts: What is this closed off pipe under my kitchen sink?

texts: This pipe has a very slow leak. What is the pipe for and what is the best way to stop the leak?


texts: How to best keep floor vent by shower dry/mold free?

texts:
We just moved into a rental home. It turned out after living there for a few weeks that we discovered the vents were innudated with mold. They were so bad the landlord had to replace all the vents in the home both upstairs and downstairs.

Toward the end of the job, the guy in charge of the job told me that a major cause of the mold was likely a bathroom floor vent close to a shower. Water dripped slowly over time into the vent and pooled in the vents causing mold to flourish. Now there's a couple exacerbating factors. The AC only runs in the summer. So a few drips during the summer were not a big deal. They would dry up as the AC ran. In the winter, though, the home doesn't use the AC vents. Instead radiator heating is used. So water pools from the vent, but no AC comes on to dry up the water.

Additionally, the bathroom has no exhaust fan. So with the door shut, the room gets rather steamy. I imagine that in the winter, the hot steam can easily travel down the vent and condense underneath the home. This might be a bigger cause.

What can we do to deal with this situation? How can we keep our vents dry and still take showers in this bathroom? Keep in mind we're renters, so we have to ask for everything. It seems likely that the mold problem will repeat unless we can find a way to deal with this problem.


texts: Possible cross over issue with water lines

texts:
About 2 weeks ago our hot water started getting less and less hot, now it is completely cold. If I turn the cold angle stop off at the sink, so only the hot water line can feed the faucet, and turn it on, water flows. If I turn it to the completely hot setting water flows, but if I turn it to the completely cold setting the water stops. (No crossover in the faucet). Here is the tricky part, if I turn off the cold water feed to the hot water heater, with the faucet on hot only, the water will still run. This happens in all of my sinks except one. In the hookup closest to the hot water heater, if I hook the hose to the hot water angle valve and turn it on, HOT water flows out. If I then turn off the supply to the hot water heater, the flow stops (as it should). Only this one sink functions this way. When this is happening I can hear the water being taken out of the hot water heater, and new water being put in. When I turn on any other faucet it is not even trying to draw water out of the hot water heater, even if I have the cold angle valve on the faucet turned off (so it can only draw from the hot circuit). Also, I turned off the angle valves to the dishwasher and washer/dryer for all the tests.

To summarize, the faucet closest to the hot water heater works flawlessly. All other faucets will only run cold. When the cold water angle valve is turned off, and the faucet is turned onto hot, water runs, but is cold, and is not even trying to draw from the hot water heater. Everything seemed to work fine 2 weeks ago, and no plumbing has been tampered with.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

Thanks
Will


texts:
I'm having problems with my electrical oven: I get shocked when I touch it. I think the way to solve this is to connect the ground wire it has (the green wire) to ground?

The problem with that is that my house doesn't have any electrical connection to ground (the copper bar buried in the earth); every electrical outlet in my house has the ground unplugged. I was thinking that I could create a ground for this outlet by drilling a hole in the wall behind the oven, running a copper wire down inside the wall and into the earth, and then connect the oven's green wire to that. Would that make an acceptable ground? Should I do this or is there another option?

I'm also worried about the power consumption, if I did this, the oven would be "on" all the time so my bill would increase?

Other thing I could do is to check every wire isolation, but I don't have a tool for that. What should I be getting? If I did this, would the ground connection be unnecessary?


texts:
I'm replacing an old mercury thermostat with a digital one.

The new unit has 7-8 connections (labeled w1,wh,r1,rh,y,c, etc.) and a bunch of instructions about how to connect similarly labeled existing wires.

But there are no instructions about how to connect an unlabelled two-wire thermostat. How do I connect the new thermostat?


texts: What type of paint to use when painting on a shiny veneer, to produce the least odour?

texts: What type of paint shall I use when painting a non-removable, wooden shelf with a shiny, dark-brown veneer? I want to apply white colour. The problem is that the shelf is almost non-removable and it is in the bedroom, so I don't want to smell the oil paint in the night. Any suggestions please?


texts: What would cause a slight thumping noise in water pipes on toilet and washer?

texts:
Everyone once in a while, some of the pipes in our house make some noise, mainly only when you flush a the one toilet, or use the washer. When using the sinks, hoses, or shower, the noise is not heard.

Its a rhythmic, light 'thumping' noise. It could almost be considered a clicking noise.

It only lasts while the water is on, and only on the washer and flushing a toilet. Im assuming (since it happens while the water is on and not after its off) that this wouldn't be 'Water Hamer'.

What could be causing this noise, and what should one do to correct it?

Update: if it helps, the noise is at a rhythm of almost one per second, maybe a little quicker, but not really less than half a second.

Update 2: To be more accurate, the noise is actually probably a little faster than once every half a second. Here is a link to a M4A file (recorded from iPhone). This was recorded on the wall opposite of the bathroom, where the pipes should be.


texts: Installation of toilet/ sink in basement

texts: Have three pipes coming out of concrete floor- 2 short ones, which Im thinking is toilet and sink. Third one is 2-3 inch diameter and almost 3 ft high.I’m guessing is a vent pipe. Not sure what to do with this pipe. (A do it yourself with no experience project)


texts: Is this flowerpot insert made from asbestos?

texts:
I own three flowerpots with strange white inserts. I haven't bought them in fact they were already part of the 1970 built house when I moved in.
I've heard of asbestos flowerpots but couldn't find anything about inserts.
The material is greyish white and relatively easy to break.

Is it possible that these flowerpots are made out of asbestos?

(I wore a facemask, gloves and a face shield while taking the last picture)


texts: What is the best kind of grass/seed for a completely shaded lawn?

texts:
After our home was built this winter, we had a new lawn seeded in the spring and it came in nicely almost everywhere except one area in the back that is in the shade all day long (there are woods on one side and the house on the other).

I plan to add additional seed to that area of the lawn but want to choose a type of grass that will do ok with almost no direct sunlight if there is such a thing.

What do you suggest?

Edit: I live near Madison, Wisconsin.


texts: How can I hang a heavy mirrored bathroom cabinet?

texts:
I purchased a bathroom cabinet today that is 1200 mm wide, by 750 mm tall, and 150 mm deep. When I brought it home, I discovered it weighed nearly 40 kg (88 pound) empty.

I was told that I could use 4 or 6, 10 gauge 65 mm plasterboard screws, by screwing them straight into the studs behind the plaster wall. If I have 2 studs I should just use 4 (2 in each), and if I can get it across 3 studs to use 6 screws.

Anyway, I am really worried that once it's filled with shampoos etc. that it could fall of the wall. Could you please give me some advice about the best fasteners to use. I think the studs are only 2x4, the house was built 10 years ago (house and land package by a big building company, so not top quality).


texts:
Stove is a Whirlpool WFG510S0AW2.  New to us, bought used, from a rental.

The behavior we're seeing is, when set to 'bake', the oven will light, the temperature display will show a rising temperature until the setpoint is reached (say, 350F), and then the gas will shut off.  Fine, so far.  However, the oven will not re-ignite until the temperature drops to ~240F or less.  (To see this, you have to cancel the 'bake', and then restart it.) So, really lousy temperature regulation.

However, in 'diagnostic mode', this stove will show the oven sensor temperature.  When observed, two things:

When the oven reaches the setpoint temperature on the 'regular'
display (350F) and the gas shuts off, the diagnostic temperature reads ~450F.
When the oven re-ignites (as above, the 'regular' display reads < 240F), the diagnostic temperature reads 350F.  After re-ignition, the above pattern repeats.

There is only one oven temperature sensor.  Yet, it seems to have two disparate temperatures.  Further, setpoint shut-off (350F) seems controlled by one temperature reading, and re-ignition by the other.

The functional issue is, it won't hold temperature.  But, the rest is so strange that I think I must be missing something.

UPDATE: On further thought, I think it may be working correctly.  Because the temp sensor is located quite near the burner, while the goal is to set the air temperature, it might make sense to 'overcharge' the temperature at the sensor by an empirically-determined amount, so that the air will have reached the desired setpoint.  After the gas turns off, the sensor would be responding to the actual air temperature rather than heat from the burner, and so it would then make sense to restart the burner when the sensed temperature fell back to the setpoint.

If so, the 'regular' display is a computed value, adjusted when the burner is on to compensate for its being so near the burner.


texts: What is the importance of "breathable" home exteriors?

texts:
I have heard many people say that it's important for a building's exterior materials to be able to "breathe."  In particular, materials like brick are desirable because of their breathe-ability, whereas vinyl siding would be undesirable.

What is the impact of this characteristic on the durability of a home?  What problems would be caused by using materials that don't allow air to penetrate?


texts: Can I get away with 5/4" cedar decking across a 24" span in a children's play structure?

texts:
I am currently in the process of designing/building a play structure for my son.  The structure will include a 5' high elevated deck, that is 6'x4'.  The supports for the decking will be 24" center-to-center.

Reading through load tables, it is recommended to use 2x4 or 2x6 stock as the decking, if one is spanning 24".  To use 5/4" decking, requires 16" or smaller spans.

The plan for this play structure is, it is for kids, with the occasional "mom or dad wants to play too!"  So, in this case, would using 5/4" decking be appropriate?  The 2x6 decking seems to be a bit overkill for a kids play set, and the trap-door/ladder I am planning to incorporate would get quite heavy for little guys to manipulate.


texts: Connect two sheet materials with no access to other side

texts: I want to make a connection between to thin sheet materials that can be disassambled. Seems easy enough, right? Just use nut bolt and washers. The problem is that when the connection is made there is no hand access to other side to hold the nut. I cannot make a thread too. Is there any better solution that glue the bolt to other side ? Maybe someone has already invented a type of one-side-locking-bolt? The connection does not need be super strong. The this is a lid or cover of some sort, imagine a light car hood.


texts: How can I provide up to 70V AC power to a sliding glass door panel?

texts:
I'm renovating a master bath and the entire wall between the bath and the master is completely removed.  The view and light that this provides is very nice so I'm considering putting in glass instead of a solid (non-structural) wall that was there before.

The concern is privacy.  It's a master bath so in theory, it's not really a necessity but I think that would be awkward in practice especially with a clear glass shower stall.  Pattern glass or frosted/etched glass is another option but the SO and I are in complete disagreement on what would be appropriate.

The one option that would seem to allow us to have our cake and eat it too is using a switchable glass/film.  There are various manufacturers but here's an example with some demo videos.  There's actually a video on the site where they show putting the film on what appears to be a sliding door and a 'sliding door package' but I can't figure out what is getting power to the door.  There's a mention of a 'power transfer cable' but no picture or detailed description.

I think this is pretty straightforward for something that is fixed but we were planning to have a sliding door.  These products require a power source and it seems low voltage DC is not an option however the product above actually uses 60-70VAC power as pointed out by JPhi1618.  I had assumed these were DC powered.

Is there a proper, legit way to connect wiring for something like this?  It turns out all of these products run on AC as described in this thread.