texts: How to mount short handrail with no studs?

texts:
Ok, I have my basement stairs I'm finally trying to mount a handrail on (it wasn't done by previous owners, and I'm finally getting to my "to-do" list :) )

So I measured, and went out and grabbed a wooden railing (4 ft length) and some brackets:

So now I just have to find the studs ... and therein lies my problem. I did find 1 stud, however, I don't think that's enough to mount it to ...

here's a little diagram showing my situation:

So I have a short 5-step flight.
From the bottom floor, to the top of the top step, it's 44 inches.
From the first step to last, 44 inches as well ...
My only stud is 19 inches in .. and I cannot locate a 2nd one.

I don't think I can / want to mount 1 bracket only to the drywall .. but if I have to, how to do it so it's as solid as possible ?

What options do I have ?


texts: Replacing flow switch on Titan water heater

texts: I need to replace the magnetic flow switch on my Titan tankless water heater...Do I insert it from the side like the diagram shows, or do I need to open the panel?


texts: Is it safe/energy efficient to surround hydronic baseboard heaters with a wooden enclosure?

texts:
I recently replaced some wood panelling with drywall, leaving my hydronic baseboard heaters free standing with no brackets or metal surrounding them. I was thinking that instead of putting a metal cover over them, I could build a slotted wooden enclosure that I would paint white to blend in with the baseboard trim.

Would I lose any energy efficiency by doing this? Is there a reason they are always made of metal?


texts: Cutting extruded aluminium with a circular saw

texts:
What kind of circular saw blade is best for safely cutting aluminium?
I have some long sections of aluminium, actually hip beams from a dismantled conservatory, that are roughly T-shaped and 40 x 70 mm in section. As they are very rigid I plan to cut these to a standard length to use them to support shelves in my garage workshop.
I don't have a chop saw, mitre saw or band saw, but I do have cordless Dewalt DCS391N circular saw (takes 165mm diameter blades). I'm thinking I could cut them relatively safely with this if I clamped the pieces in a cross-cut jig, and if I had the right blade.
From what I've read, I think I should use a blade with a low tooth count, a low kerf width and a low or even negative rake angle. But how low is low? And what kind of problems will I get if the blade is too thin?
My local retailer stocks these two 165mm Dewalt tungsten carbide-tipped blades and claims they will both cut aluminium, but which is better and why?

36 teeth, 1.5mm kerf, +3 degree rake
18 teeth, 2.4mm kerf, +10 degree rake

UPDATE: this is the kind of jig I intend to use to keep the work secure and the circular saw aligned, but my jig is wider to make it easier to clamp the work on both sides of the cut. (Source)


texts: How should I seal a covered, tongue and groove porch?

texts:
I'm looking to install and seal a tongue and groove (1x4, fir) porch to replace the original tongue and groove at our home. The porch is covered. I want to keep a natural, clear finish.
I assumed I could seal with oil-based polyurethane for exterior (to handle the UV), but I'm seeing conflicting information out there... manufacturer's advising against using poly exterior or decks. So what should I use? Spar urethane? A waterproof sealant?
Thanks in advance for your time.


texts: How do I remove wet latex paint from carpet?

texts:
I have just stepped into latex paint and walked onto the carpet by accident. I haven't done anything yet it just happened.

How do I remove the paint from my carpet?


texts: How Do I Finish The Edge...hardwood floor landing

texts: this is my first post.  Many more to come, I'm sure. I tried to post a photo but it's too large to upload. How do you finish hardwood on a landing that is open to the room?  I thought I'd edge it with a piece of 3 1/2" bullnose but it looks funny.  Is there a trim piece I can buy that is thinner than a 3 1/2" bullnose?


texts: What happens when using a GFCI Tester on a non-GFCI outlet?

texts:
I have an outdoor power outlet of which I'm not sure if it's GFCI or not (House was built in 1978). The outlet does not have Test/Reset buttons, but I don't know if outdoor outlets even have them. There's no labeling for GFCI anywhere,.

So I'm looking to purchase a GFCI Tester. (Those little three-pronged things with 2 yellow/1 red LED and a button)

But I'm not sure what should/would happen if I press the GFCI Button and the outlet is not actually GFCI. Should it trip the breaker in the breaker box, or should it do nothing and the LEDs on the tester just stay on?


texts:
We live in a single family home and are doing a renovation of our kitchen and adjoining room. We are not making any architectural changes. For the kitchen, we are adding electrical circuits and sockets, adding a water line to the new fridge location, moving the gas connection to the stove, and adding venting for the exhaust hood.  For the adjoining room/space we are adding water lines, drainage, exhaust, and electrical for laundry. We are also changing the existing hot water heater to a tankless and moving it outside.

The contractor that we are working with is licensed.  Everything will be renovated to code.

Do I really need to get permits for all of the work that is being done?

What are the pros/cons for getting a permit?
What are the pros/cons for not getting a permit.

update
I checked the permitting fee schedule and there's basically a fee ... Examples:

Electrical
1. Clothes dryer - $14.70
2. Dishwasher - $14.70
3. Switches/Outlets - $3.40 each

Plumbing
1. Dishwasher - $22.60
2. Kitchen Sink with disposal - $22.60

Etc.


texts:
I have a window seat with shallow storage underneath (100mm deep storage, 560mm deep lid of 18mm birch ply). I've not had any luck finding soft close lid stays. The piston ones I've tried are soft close until 45 degrees and then they slam shut because I can't put the piston deep enough to get a relatively decent angle. The hinged stays (hafele duo flap) require about 180mm of clearance so I can't use those.

Due to the weight of the lid (5-6kg), I can't rely on soft close hinges. Poorly sketched diagram below:

Anything else I can try to keep small fingers safe?!


texts: limit detection angle of a motion sensor light switch

texts: Is there a way to limit the horizontal angle of a motion based indoor (occupancy) light switch to it doesn't  pick up movement within, say 90 degree horizontal angle only


texts: Handles without springs: strong door latches

texts:
Our internal doors use old Edwardian door handles. However, the handles don't have a spring. The latch we have doesn't have enough strength to work the handle (they sag).

I've tried searching for "strong door latches", but this seems to focus on security and buying a more expensive latch at our local shop doesn't solve the issue either.

So what latch should I use when the handles do not have springs?


texts:
So we bought a new build and found a heat register is directly under the dishwasher. Where the hvac is completely I stalled, the hardwood floor has not been cut and register dropped in.

My question is, should I complete the project or disconnect the supply line? Is it also normal for this placement? The builder says yes.


texts: How can I remove a stud from a load bearing wall?

texts:
I want to remove a stud from a load bearing wall in order to recess my fridge another 3-4 inches.
In doing so I will be removing the bottom plate, one stud from bottom plate up to height of the fridge as well as drywall behind the fridge.

Is it sufficient to place  king studs next to the two studs that are on the left and right side of stud being removed and then run a header plate between the 2 that would support the remaining part of the center stud
. See picture.  Red studs are king studs in picture.


texts:
My son disconnected ceiling rose on bottom level to fit new light and was sure he knew where they went back however on fitting new light the new light stayed on;we connected back to how he thought they were and ceiling pendant works as it should as do other lights however when we connect new light it stays on.if we disconnect the GREY wire completely on new light scenario all lights work as they should,
Can we leave this grey wire unconnected or should it be connected to one of other wires either in loop or on neutral side of connections.
He thinks it was joined to black live originally which in that scenario light only works fine with original pendant???


texts: 2 wire smart thermostat nest but no RC or RH

texts:
I just got the new 2020 model nest and i was going to do the 24v transformer suggestion in other thread but these new models do not have RC or RH on them.  they only have Y,G,R,W,C,O/B.
Will the transformer not work or can i use another connection?


texts: How can I install a tub over this tub box?

texts:
In our unfinished basement, we have a roughed-in bath. I can see a water closet exit, a sink exit, and a tub exit.

The tub exit is covered by this product: http://www.oatey.com/products/rough-in-products/tub-box/tub-box. It's installed upside-down (the manufacturer's mark is reversed, hence my deduction). I have no affiliation with this company; this is the product the builder chose.

I tried peeling this off a bit without damaging it, and can see gravel beneath the concrete foundation. I'm not sure if there's a pipe or something else leading to the sewer from this point on.

Here's my question: What should I do with this, to be able to install a tub + surround combination in the basement?


texts: Does my travertine-tiled shower have thin set leaking out the bottom?

texts: I have shower tiled with travertine and along the entire bottom a thick almost rubber-like substance is slowly leaking out. It is a grey / black color. I'm assuming it is thin set that wasn't mixed properly and never completely set up. Should I be concerned, and if so what should I do about it?


texts: Replacing Outlet with Switch Middle of Run

texts:
Trying to wire unfinished basement with new can lights.

There's an outlet mid height on wall at bottom of stairs that also powers a number of lights downstream that would be ideal location for switch for these new lights.

I want to replace the outlet with Lutron Caseta switch and simply run new 14/2 to the first can and so on down the line.  The switch only has two black wires...so one will go to pigtail hot and the other to the first light.

Is there a way to do this without the new switch affecting all the downstream lights/outlets?

Originally I was thinking switch loop but this layout would be simpler and no white wire serving as a conductor.  Just don't know if it makes sense.

Thanks for your assistance!


texts: I have Nami windows series 140/141, spec: H-R35/H-R50. Does the top portion slide down for cleaning?

texts:
Has a sliding bar at top on each side.
Can't tell if top should slide down??


texts: How to secure plywood wall panels with hidden fixings

texts:
We've got a new 3000 x 3000mm partition wall that we'd like to fix birch plywood panels to. The panel size would be 800 wide, 600 high and I'm trying to figure out how to best fix them to the stud work.

Here are some visual examples:

I've seen many visual examples on Pinterest but no explanation for how they've actually been achieved. Our builder's only suggestion has been to fix with countersunk screws and use woodfiller but he's agreed it would probably ruin the aesthetic.

I've looked at hidden fixings such as buttonfix: http://button-fix.com/ but they work out quite expensive as I'd presumably need 4 per panel for a secure fix. My only other thought is to use flush mirror fixings but not sure if that would be secure enough once we attach lights and sockets.


texts: I just bought an older Delta Table Saw with a 3 phase motor. I have 240 Volt service. How can I wire the motor, or what do I need to do to make it work?


texts: How should I cut these speaker stands down to size?

texts:
Any recommends on what tool I should use and how I can go about not ruining the finish?

Here's a close up of the top:

And here's the finished product - thanks for all the help! I used a pipe cutter and it worked great.


texts: Should I get a structural engineer to inspect?

texts: The main carrying beam of our recently purchased 105 year old house is slightly rotated and seems to be putting more pressure on one side of the house. There is a vertical crack on both sides of the foundation (front and back of the house) stemming from the corner of the beam pocket on the side the beam is rotated towards. The cracks are not wide, but it's still concerning to me. Anyone else have similar experience or advice on how to proceed? Pictures of the back wall of the foundation(inside and outside)


texts:
thanks for taking a sec to read. I just bought a small house in which the ceiling joists in the Attic seem to change from east to west to north to south. I am wanting to remove part of a wall in which runs north to south with the north to south joists.

however, there is this interesting setup seen in the picture below that makes me think it may be bearing some sort of load even though it is running parallel with the joists.

If you see the tape measure is on top of this v configuration that lies on to of the north south beams

The wall runs in between the two 2x4s in the pic below right under the cross beam.

Any ideas? Thanks!


texts: How to open this fluorescent light fixture?

texts:
I’m stumped. There this fluorescent light fixture in a closet of mine that seems to have burned out or stopped working. I wanted to open it up to change the bulb but I can’t figure out how it opens.

I’ve tried pulling, sliding, gentle prying. It’s on there rock solid. There is a ridged (like a potato chip) plastic covering that seems like it could somehow be removed but I can’t figure it out.

I can’t find any identifying markings, no serial number, no manufacturer, so it’s impossible for me to google what the hell this is.


texts: Identify a washing machine part - the exit port

texts:
I'm trying to identify (= find the name for) a washing machine component.
Unfortunately, I don't have this part - I gave it to my landlord who is looking for a replacement.

It's basically the exit port for the washing machine water that connects to the drain hose.
It has two little hoses going into it, both connected to two electrical components that seem to be little motors, and a rudimentary filter. I'm guessing this either redirects the water back into the machine or out to the drain depending on the cycle stage.

Does anyone know what this is called so I can try and locate it online? Would this have a different name based on the brand of the washing machine?

I'm pretty sure this is the pump, but apparently on other machines the pump is near the fluff filter. In my case, it's at the back of the machine, connected to the exit hose.

The machine is an AEG Lavamat 40870


texts: What are the difficulties in installing an in-floor drain in a laundry room?

texts:
I’m looking into a new construction home that lacks a floor drain in the laundry room. As I’m not a plumber, I’d like to understand how trivial or not trivial it is to add this, in case the builder pushes back on the ask.

It seems like it’s real simple as it’d be a separate drain pipe that, at some point, connects to the rest of the drainage system. Is it that easy or are there complications?


texts: Rust and ash in my AC/furnace - should I be concerned?

texts:
TL;DR - Furnace/AC generates a lot of rust flakes and ash, not sure what this means.

UPDATE - An inspector came by to look at the furnace. While the inspector didn't find anything broken, he said it was nearing its end of days, and that it was only a matter of time until something broke. As per his recommendation, my apartment complex replaced the unit.

I live in an apartment unit that's 34 years old, and I'm a little concerned about the state of my furnace and AC unit. I don't know exactly when it unit was installed, but it seems to be showing its age. I noticed an excessive amount of rust flakes and, now that the gas heater is flexing its muscles for the cold this season, some ash. I honestly don't know much about HVAC systems in general, so I took some pictures. Is the condition of my system any cause for concern?

This is where most of the rust would pile up. I have cleaned most of it off. Before I did, it would simply drop to the ledge and floor below.

This is underneath the rusty ledge, looking at the burners. You can see some of the rust that fell from above, as well as some ash from near the pilot light.

A closer view of the pilot light, showing the rust flakes and ash piling up below. The ash was not present before this season when the heat kicked in.

Underneath the rusty "hood" in the first image, there are two holes where it seemed most of the rust would fall from. It was a little difficult to get a good picture of these holes, so please excuse the poor camera work on my part. This is the left one. I'm not sure what the larger bits once were, but they don't look or feel like metal or rust. My guess is that at some point this hole was partially covered by some material that fell apart through the years.

The right hole didn't have the same non-metallic flaky bits, but did show a good amount of rust flakes sitting inside. I'm not entirely sure what these holes are for, but again, I'm not very familiar with these systems. It seems like a majority of the rust comes from these holes and drops onto the rusty "hood" (first picture). I lightly brushed my finger along the outer rim of the hole and rust eagerly fell out.

This last picture is of the floor below the unit. You can see a small section where I dragged my finger through the rust that had piled up. I doubt this picture is very relevant, but I included it to give a scope of how messy this system is.

I know this is a long post, so thank you for reading it through. My question is, should I be concerned about the excessive amount of rust accumulating through this system? As far as I'm aware, the furnace and AC work alright apart from being noisy and inefficient.


texts:
When should I drill fast and when should I drill slow, when drilling holes on metal pieces? and what are the advantages and disadvantages for both of them?

(Suppose a corded drill have 10 speed level, you may assume that drill fast means drilling at speed 7 or above, while drill slow will be at speed 3 or below)


texts:
I am trying to replace glass in Ply gem sash window. I took old glass and measured it: 708 x 793 x 18 mm. The new one I bought from provider of construction company that built my house has the following dimensions: 705 x 797 x 21 mm.

I am curious if such difference in dimensions is acceptable and if it makes sense to force it in?

Here are some sash photos


texts: Unfamiliar wiring on what looks like a single pole switch

texts:
Apologies if the question title is inaccurate, my knowledge of household electrical systems is rudimentary.

I was attempting to install a new motion activated light switch in a room in my house but when I opened the case the existing wiring was like nothing I had seen before and so I was unsure how to proceed.

I have attached some images of the switch but, in words, what I see is two wires connected to the top screw and one wire each into both the top and bottom backstabs. No grounding wire is present. This is the only switch in the room, though it does turn on multiple lights.

Any help identifying what Im dealing with here would be very much appreciated.


texts: Hotpoint double oven model identification

texts: Can anyone identify this oven in the attached photo please. The stick on label seems to have gone missing.


texts: How to hang things on wall where 1/2" drywall covers solid material (steel?)

texts:
I own a condo in a high rise building (mid-1970s construction).
The walls are 1/2" drywall, and I'm guessing the structure is steel (perhaps with concrete?).
The other day I was attempting to add some wall hooks (rather beefy, made of solid brass) to a wall in my entryway, but I could not get a drywall anchor to go deeper than 1/2" before hitting something impenetrable. I've been able to use drywall anchors on other walls in my apartment, so it appears that this wall may just be load bearing or perhaps have wires or pipe running through it. Because of that possibility, I don't particularly want to try using a masonry bit to drill farther to see if it is in fact concrete
So, I'm wondering if it's possible to hang these hooks somehow. Are there drywall anchors that are only 1/2" long? Other options?


texts: How should I handle reflooring the bathroom of an old house?

texts:
We are updating the bathroom in our old house and after removing the old tile and concrete we found that it was sitting on 3/4" subfloor planks, and some of them are not in the best shape. We are planning to use Ditra or Ditra XL depending on the needed thickness for the underlayment. We have 1/4" porcelain tile (size 12"x23"). The gap between the old subfloor planks and the hardwood at the transition point is 1-1/2".
Questions:

The planks have quite large gaps between them in some spots, will this be a problem?
How thick should the total subfloor under Ditra and Ditra XL be? Would the old 3/4" planks with another 3/4" ply (at least) be enough?
What would be the best option to get to the same level as hardwood (1-1/2")?

For example: add 3/4" ply + 1/4" ply + 1/8" Ditra + 1/4" tile
Or: add 3/4" ply + 5/16" Ditra XL + 1/4" tile
Both options will be ~ 1/8" shy from making a perfect transition. Maybe there are better options?

Should we glue (carpenter's glue) and screw additional plywood or will screws (grid pattern 4"x4") be enough?

Photos of the floor:


texts:
See the white cap in this image

I don't know what it is called but I wish it wouldn't keep coming off the bolt/nut on my toilet. Is there a way to fix this? Get a better one? I don't know what to google for. Can you help?


texts: How do "infinite zones" in induction cookers work?

texts:
I'm considering switching from ceramic to induction. I noticed that several producers (e.g., Electrolux, Bosch and Siemens) advertise something like "infinite zones", where the size of an induction zone is automatically adjusted to the size of the pot.

How are "infinite zones" achieved? Do they deliver what they promise or are they just marketing BS? I'm worried that "infinite zones" is euphemism for "let's inject a lot of power in a very tiny surface, 'cause customers won't notice".


texts: Mitre Circular Saw blades for cutting Oak floorboards

texts:
I have two different blades (which are almost new) for my mitre saw.  One has 24 teeth, the other has 48 teeth.

Which blade should I be using to cut oak floor boards?


texts: How should I install a door that is not pre-hung and has a custom jamb?

texts:
I have an antique restored interior door with a transom for which I have to make my own jamb due to the height of the side jambs (big boxes sell only 80" door jambs).  Should I

A) assemble the jamb and hang the door on it outside the rough opening before fitting it in (basically pre-hang it myself) or

B) assemble the pieces of jamb inside the rough opening?

I am inclined to think A because how else do I know how much shimming I will need.  However, one problem I see with that is how to assemble 1x planks of the jamb at right angles around the door and set the hinges in correct spots.  It seems like I would need a firm frame to support the composition.


texts: What size wire for my 240 v 50 amp sub panel

texts: I am running a 240 v 50 amp sub panel to my pole barn. It is about 125 feet to the barn. I an just running lights on 15 amp circuit and outlets and garage opener's on 20 amp. I figure i might need the rest in the future.


texts: What product will insulate an exterior PVC pipe coming out of the ground with a faucet on it?

texts: We want to insulate from freezing an exterior 24" tall PVC pipe coming out of the ground that has a faucet on it ~ a heated product is not plausible in our situation.  Are there other products that will successfully insulate the pipe against freezing?  We live in the western side of Oregon, where the winters are generally mild, but occasionally/rarely reach 10-20 degrees.


texts: How to remove dryer from top of stacked washer/dryer in small closet?

texts:
I have a washer and dryer stacked on top of each other in a fairly tight closet,  see picture below.  Due to a couple electrical boxes on one side of the closet, I am unable to slide the units to the side to access the back of the closet.  By climbing on top of the stack I can see that the water hoses are too short to slide the whole unit out of the door, as suggested in this question:
How to move stacked washer/dryer from closet

There does appear to be enough dryer vent and electrical cord to move just the dryer all the way out of the door.

I have verified that the dryer will come free of the washer by removing a couple screws on the front of the unit.

I'm not strong enough nor large enough to move the 127 lbs of dryer by myself, and due to the space restrictions of the closet I can't see how to get another person in the space to help me with the lift.  Additionally, the width of dryer is 27" while the width of the door at the smallest point is 29.5" which means it would be impossible to carry the unit out the door and have your arms wrapped around the side of the unit.

What is the easiest method of removing the dryer from the top of the washer for servicing?  What tools or devices are recommended to help safety remove the dryer?


texts:
I've got an old Bosch corded hammer drill, model PSB 500. It's not the "RE" (reversible) model. The chuck is a traditional one with the jaws and the key to loosen and tighten the bits.

Since this model is not a reversible one, the chuck has not the central screw to remove. There is only a sort of flat head, it seems like a pin, and a really small hole on a side of this flat head. I can't understand if the hole has something to do with the removal process.

I followed the procedure I found here and on YouTube to unscrew the chuck:
- lock a big Allen key in the chuck
- hit it with a hammer in counterclockwise
but:
1) the drill model doesn't have a lock button to avoid the rotation of the entire engine group;
2) the chuck shaft doesn't have a wrench friendly grip (the notches you see in the picture are at 120 degrees so useless for a normal wrench);
3) I tried to lock the shaft with a pliers but the chuck doesn't loosen the same.

Is there a way to remove this kind of chuck?

EDIT


texts: Aquatherm - thermostat is dead. What to check?

texts:
(Thermostat: White-Rodgers 1F80-51

Heating Unit is aquatherm, XUAQ22-2, this is a heat exchanger hanging off a hot water heater, and giving us forced air heat for a 500 sqft space. Unit and thermostat are about 20 yrs old.)

I already replaced the thermostat batteries. No luck there.

What do I check next?

And can I use any thermostat on this thing? (I have a Nest, will that work?)

Thanks!

RESOLVED --------------------------------------------

Per the great response below:

Tested good for 24vac across white and red leads
When I shorted those leads (w needle nose pliers), the heater came on!
Conclusion: Heater is fine, thermostat is kaput
Replaced thermostat, lived warmly ever after


texts:
My wife and I just bought our first house. I think that we discovered that our dryer vent is going to require some regular maitenence to keep it clean and able to dry our clothes.

When we moved in, we found that the vent opening in our laundry room was absolutely full of lint (solid). I got the vacuum cleaner and sucked up as much as I could and reached up and pulled out some more. When she ran our first load of laundry though, it didn't dry much at all. I went up to the attic and looked in our vent up there and there was more lint but not as much. I'm going to pick up a dryer vent brush today after work but I noticed that it looked like the tape on their vent was very new looking which leads me to think this was something they regularly had to do.

I'm wondering how easy / effective is it to get one of the fans to attach to your vent that will essentially help it along. I can't think of what the fans are called right now though.


texts: Can 18psi water source run a 20" Big Blue Sediment filter without pump?

texts: My water pressure is 18psi from source. It is sufficient water even for bathing in second floor. What will happen if I'd put say 1, 2 or 3 pc. 20" Big Blue sediment filter in the water line? What will happen to my 18psi pressure? Will it turn it to 15psi or maybe 10psi?


texts: Is there any way to build a fence without putting posts in the ground?

texts:
I want to build a nice looking wooden fence around my property.  However part of it has dirt, part of it has concrete. Also, there are already block walls between my two neighbors. I don't want to screw into my neighbor's block wall fence to install my wooden fence.

Can I build a fence without putting posts in the ground? Can I pour some concrete footings that sit above ground and posts go into that?  The footings could make so that it looks decorative.

Is there any reason that I should not do this from a safety perspective?
We obviously don't want it to topple over. The footings can be made so that the shape is stable...i.e. it is wider at the bottom.


texts: Is 20 feet too long to run bathroom fan duct for 100cfm fan?

texts: I need to run about 20 feet of duct to reach the gable, I don't want to go through the roof unless I absolutely need to, I live in Vermont and we can get a lot of snow build up on the roof, I also would prefer not to go through the eaves. Is this too long a run?


texts: What is a tandem breaker (aka duplex, cheater, twin, double-stuff, etc.)?

texts:
I keep hearing about tandem breakers, and how they won't work with 240V loads and how they should never be used for a multi-wire branch circuit.  Aside from those issues...

What is a tandem breaker?

(note: they can be thrown independently).


texts: Controlling multiple indoor wifi smart switches with a separate outside photocell

texts:
I have three groups of outdoor house lights and one group of landscape lights.  They're on four separate light switches.  The house light switches are located indoors in separate locations far apart, and the landscape light switch is located outside far from the other three.

A year ago I replaced all four switches with timers to increase their usefulness and convenience.  But it's turning out to be a hassle to adjust all of those timers every few weeks to stay in synch with seasonal daylight changes.

If I replace the three indoor timers/switches with wifi smart switches, can I then replace the outside timer/switch with a photocell device (or install such a device elsewhere) to control all four groups of lights with the single photocell?


texts: Filling an outdoor drain with concrete to reduce standing water

texts:
I have a semi-outdoor drain that looks like this (I have removed the grate):

The container of the drain is plastic, and there is a good 6 inches from the bottom of the drain to the pipe where the water leaves the drain.

This water never evaporates, and it has eventually turned into compost. This is bad right? I try to empty it every so often.

I would like to fill the bottom 6 inches of the drain with concrete so that the amount of standing water is minimized.

Is concrete the right material to use? It feels wrong filling a plastic container with concrete. Was there some good reason this drain was designed this way? If I don't use concrete, what material should I use?


texts: Two switches have to be ON for light to work

texts:
I recently purchased a house from the 1970's and I have noticed a wiring issue.  There are two switches to turn the garage lights on.  Both use wiring that includes one red wire, one black wire, and one white wire.  Neither has a ground wire. I have two questions.  First, what wiring changes need done to make each light switch work independently of each other?  Second, can I remove switch #2 and install an outlet instead of a switch?  Thanks!
Note:  I tested the wires with my klein voltage tester and it's showing the black wires are hot.


texts: Can I install junction boxes in a closet, and if so, what kind of box?

texts:
We are designing circuit runs for a ground floor of a house flooded by a hurricane and it is best to use a few junction boxes to run the circuit branches. One reason for the junction boxes is to keep too many wires out of device boxes and to avoid very long runs that back track. The junction boxes are more efficient runs. Am I wrong to think of them this way? Furthermore, if the place floods again we want to have to replace only the wires up to a certain point. Some high up junction boxes will make it possible for us not to tear up the upper half the house all the way back to the breaker box to run all new wires. We will only have to do the lower half of the house up to some junction boxes. The house has no viable crawl space underneath the house for junction boxes, it is too wet and prone to salt water rising. The other option is to put junction boxes in a finished closet so that the face plate can be removed and the wire splices accessed. I know that switches and receptacles cannot be in a closet and some electricians think that junction boxes are okay in closets by NEC and it depends on local codes.

What is the NEC code for closets and junction boxes?

The other idea is simply to put the junction boxes right out in the open in the living room outside and above the closet then put a cabinet around them so the whole junction box is accessible in the cabinet but is not an eye sore in the living room. The cabinet door would open and there would be the junction boxes. Nothing else would go in the cabinet. The cabinet should be built to fit only the junction boxes so no one uses it for storage. There may only be one junction box in the end, but it needs a proper location.


texts: Water pump and pipe size for maximum water intake?

texts:
Each floor is 12 feet in height.
I already have the pump (Centrifugal Regenerative Self Priming 1HP Peripheral Type, Self Priming - 180sec At 3m STATIC SUCTION LIFT) and would like to know which is the best location to install it for maximum water intake to the overhead tank. The water Supply is only available for a limited period everyday and the goal is to achieve maximum water to the overhead tank.
The Water supply line provides water from a bigger (8inch) main line but water pressure from it is not adequate to pump up water on top level. (Water pressure only enough to supply water to first floor and that too with reduced pressure.)
The water pipe from main supply to pump and from pump to overhead tank is 1/2 inches wide.

Questions:

1). Which position of the water pump in the above situation provide maximum water output to the overhead tank?

2). Will using thicker 1 inch pipe after pump (the input will remain 1/2 inch) make any difference to suck maximum water in?


texts: How can I make steel post bases more rust-resistant?

texts:
I recently purchased several of these 4x4 bases for a rooftop very close to the ocean. They have not been installed yet.

After about a month I notice that one of them has a little rust spot where the base is welded.

Before installing them, is there anything not too expensive that I can apply so that they don't rust?

I was also thinking of covering them with something after installing them, since these bases aren't attractive. Maybe I can cover them with something attractive that would also protect them from rust?


texts: How much air ventilation required for oil burner in a closet?

texts: We are redoing our basement and closeting off the boiler and hot water heater. With our layout, it makes most sense to vent it out of the chimney. However, I want to make sure we are getting enough air draw. Does anyone know if slated doors are enough? Is there a better system I'm not thinking of?


texts: How to change ceiling light on a flush flat light fixture

texts: My ceiling light fixture looks like this. I can't seem to be able to remove it no matter which way I try. Any suggestions?


texts: continuity between the two poles on power cord of my fridge

texts: I have continuity between the two pole of the power cord of my fridge when I unplug it.Is this normal situation or I have a short cut


texts: Combination AFCI/GFCI breaker with GFCI receptacle

texts: Is there any issue with having a GFCI receptacle connected (terminally) on a circuit  with a AFCI/GCFI combination breaker?  If not, is there any advantage to having a GFCI outlet on this circuit (wet area)?


texts: Do I need to update the wiring in my bathroom to replace the gfci receptacle?

texts:
I upgrading each of my receptacles to tamper resistant. The house was built in 1970. In the lower level bathroom it has a 15 amp gfci circuit receptacle and a 15 amp light switch.
According to Nec, bathroom today need 20 amps separate receptacle. Do I need to rewire it to comply?
What does the code say about older homes or can I switch out the 15 amp gfci bathroom receptacle with another 15 amp gfci?


texts:
I have an main circuit breaker panel with a 200 amp breaker and a 60 amp breaker.  the main feed comes into top of 200 amp breaker and then 2 wires come out of the bottom of it and into a 60 amp breaker.  They then run out of the bottom of the 60 amp breaker and into a subpanel with a 50 amp breaker, 30 amp breaker and 15 amp breaker.  I tested the voltage between hot and neutral at the main panel, after the 60amp breaker, and both hots read 120v.  But when I test the voltage before the 50amp breaker in the subpanel one hot wire and neutral read 120v while the other hot wire and same neutral read only 25 volts.  What could the issue be?  I'm pretty sure there is nothing in between, just the wire running between the breakers.  Does anyone have an idea about what the issue could be?

The wire is run underground. Direct bury I believe. No conduit. Been there about 20 years.


texts: How do we fit a pedestal sink top onto a vanity base?

texts:
We want to put a rectangular pedestal sink top onto a wooden vanity (yet to be built). We won't be using a solid surface or laminate product on top, but instead want the sink to slightly overhang the cabinet on sides and front, creating an 'apron' look - the end result being that the cabinet itself will be slightly narrower and less deep then the sink top. (I want to clarify that I am not describing the look of a 'floating' sink on top of a countertop).

What is the best way to do this project correctly, and what are the considerations for making the sink-to-vanity attachment have a finished look?


texts: Can I use the unused red wire in the wiring from my ceiling fan to power a light in my attic space? Leaving the switch wiring the same (meaning i could turn the attic light off and on via the fan switch?)


texts:
I have built a steel garage kit.  All my horizontal NM runs are 9 1/2 feet high, fully secured (with closer spacing than code requires), and where needed I added pieces of steel studs to provide secure attachment and protection.  Of 550 feet of NM cabling there is literally just a few inches that are not immediately adjacent to a piece of steel.  The problem is the nebulous wording of NFPA 70 334.15(B) "Cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary....."
In various posts/articles across the web (including this forum) people make statements similar to "wiring over 8 feet is considered protected" yet I can find no explicit statement in the code nor does any writer quote a reference to any such rule.  Is there any such code/rule?  My inspector says I have to construct coverings over all my horizontal runs - wood or plywood or drywall - to give them 'protection'.  Almost 10 feet up in the air.  Clearly absurd but I am not sure what the rational rebuttal is.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Update: should have mentioned, state is CA.  I found a document that seems to list all CA modifications to NEC, scanned that but did not see anything relevant.  The primary special feature was that I ran oversized conduit to the subpanel and left 2 breaker positions open, so someone someday can pull a bigger feed for a car charger.  They like that kind of stuff out here.
Success!!  Inspector came today but was not the previous one who is still (I think) officially assigned my permit.  Anyway, I had articles printed out as mentioned below, we had an intelligent discussion (which did not seem possible with the other one).  Contractors typically put up (unpainted) drywall in garages around here so possibly these guys do not deal with exposed NM much, who can say.  But he agreed no mechanical protection needed for NM over 8 ft in the air.  Whoopee!  Thanks for the extra code reference, I figured the 8 ft number was coming from somewhere.


texts:
Next few weeks I will be in the process of getting quotes for mini-split HVAC system. Curious, if anyone has gone ductless and if so, how is that working out?

The house will be a a two story build(Buffalo area): main floor with an office and a living/dining/kitchen, and a 2nd floor with 4 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms. We will be insulating the foundation, the attic and spray foam the cavities. There will be two fireplaces(master bedroom and living room) that will be actively utilized during winter. All bathrooms will have heated floors and towel warmers.

By looking at the drawings It looks like 8 head mini-split should be sufficient to cover the whole area: 1 head x each bedroom(4), 1 head in the upper hall(cooling lower hall too), 1 cassette in the dining/living/kitchen area, 1 head in the office and 1 cassette in the basement.

Few areas of concern are:

Heating: Given that last few years have been somewhat cold in Buffalo, how good are heat pumps w/mini-slits at keeping the place warm? I've been reading that heat pumps may not be a way to go if outside temperatures are below -15c.

AC/cooling: What would be the best way to cool the bathrooms? Besides proper ventilation, cold air from the heads wont have direct way into the bathrooms so I am a bit concerned with not having a "sauna" during +35c days. I think an air handler or a ducted mini split zone may be a solution for the smaller spaces?

Electricity: how much would such system consume comparing to conventional forced air HVAC systems?

We'll do a heat load calculation before going any further but I just wanted to get some head start and some input.


texts: Should my unfinished siding be left uncovered when it rains?

texts: My contractors are re doing my sidings now. The house is left bare as you can see in the pictures is it okay that it's left this way when it's raining or do they have to cover it with tarp or something.


texts: Conduit / Best practices for a shared ground between branch circuits in residential?

texts:
According to NEC 2014 250.130 :

Article 250 - Grounding and Bonding
VII. Methods of Equipment Grounding
250.130 Equipment Grounding Conductor Connections. Equipment grounding conductor connections at the source of separately derived systems shall be made in accordance with 250.30(A)(1). Equipment grounding conductor connections at service equipment shall be made as indicated in 250.130(A) or (B). For replacement of non–grounding-type receptacles with grounding-type receptacles and for branch-circuit extensions only in existing installations that do not have an equipment grounding conductor in the branch circuit, connections shall be permitted as indicated in 250.130(C).
(C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following:

(1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50
(2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor
(3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates
(4) To an equipment grounding conductor that is part of another branch circuit that originates from the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates
(5) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure.
(6) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure

This allows for a non grounded branch circuit to borrow a ground from another branch circuit.  (related stackexchange question Is it OK to borrow a ground wire from a different circuit?)
My question would be what would be the best way to bond it? Run THHN inside a conduit? Is a conduit necessary? Is bare copper bad? Should I use a bonding lug on the outside of a box? Should you wrap the conduit in green tape? Can you use green THHN without a conduit? Is it bad to use romex and just cut off the non-grounding wires?
I'm trying to think of the best way to do it without confusing future electricians too much.


texts: Is gravel and sand a suitable base for concrete pavers?

texts:
I'm planning to remove my old deck, and place concrete slabs 40x40cm instead. A few questions:

Is it sufficient to put a gravel on the ground and sand on top of it? I thought this should prepare a good foundation for slabs.
Should I be placing slabs right to the house foundation (it's standing ~50cm above the ground)? If slabs will be adjacent to the house foundation, will there be a risk of rain water leaking under foundation?

I found this useful video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqsc6zX6SEs


texts: Is it ok to cut an access panel into the drywall above my service panel?

texts:
I recently purchased this house so have inherited what is here.

My main panel is located in the attached garage. It is built into a semi-finished wall.
The previous owner cut a small "door/window" ( see photo ) in the drywall above the main panel - presumably to make fishing wires easier.

The "door" of drywall is only removable when removing the cover of the panel.

There is a similar situation below the main panel - with a section of what i think is MDF that is not attached.  The way the MDF is situated I could not remove it without breaking it, but I can flex the top of it to see behind it.

I am updating some of my circuits so will need to have an inspection in the near future.

I'm curious if any of this is cause for concern?

Thanks for any help!


texts: I recently moved into a new place and almost all the window locks are broken and these windows are single hung and are located on the ground level. I have looked numerous places but I cannot find a similar lock and I cannot locate window manufacturer information. Can anyone tell from my picture what kind of lock this is or where I could find it?


texts:
How is a mechanical click and lock waterproof but the adhesive-to-adhesive style is water resistant. Chemical seems more resilient than mechanical, esp. with MDF.

I put the adhesive-to-adhesive style in the kitchen at my last house because my dog peed in there every night. My current dog is getting old and has started peeing in the carpeted areas. I hate carpet anyways, so the vinyl plank floor seems like a good idea again.

I asked the gal in the flooring section how the click and lock was waterproof but the adhesive-to-adhesive is only water resistant. She just parroted words from a pamphlet.


texts: How soon can I use my shower that I recently grouted and tiled? Should it cure first?

texts:
We have been retiling my tub surround area and finished grouting the tile last night. I used non-sanded PolyBlend grout (sold at Home Depot) and added a bottle of Grout Boost Advanced Pro. Everything went okay, especially considering this was my first time tiling or grouting.

My question actually has to do with how soon we will be able to take a shower. I've been finding what I think is mixed information. The Grout Boost Product Data Sheet (pdf link) says:

  Protection

  Protect the finished installation from traffic or impact for at least
  24 hours; from water immersion or freezing for at least 10 days
  or per grout manufacturer’s instructions, whichever is longer. No
  need to seal grout. Clean up spills immediately upon occurrence.
  If a stain remains after initial cleanup, follow the recommended
  cleaning procedures provided at www.groutboost.com

And the Grout Boost FAQ (pdf link) says:

  How long after installation do you need to wait before using
  the area grouted?

  The installation can be walked on at 24 hours.  Grout mixed with
  Grout Boost needs to cure for 10 days after installation before
  exposing it to water from mopping, showers, rain, etc.

I also saw a few comments online in forums saying that getting the grout + Grout Boost wet before the 10 days will only impact the stain resistance, not it's waterproofness.

So, how soon can I get it wet?


texts:
My garage has a roof,  four walls and a door.

It currently has beams running along the ceiling height which looks like it was used for storage.

Would adding a ceiling keep my garage at a Warmer temperature for longer?

If it does what is a good and low cost material to use?


texts: Why won't my my furnace stop running unless I shut it off at the breaker?

texts:
I can't get my furnace to shut down unless I turn off the breaker.

Why is this happening, and how do I fix it?


texts: What paint should I use over decorator's caulk so that it matches the surrounding area?

texts:
I have some overzealous use of decorator's caulk that I wish to paint over. However when I paint over it, it comes up cracked, and more importantly a darker shade so it's obvious.

What type of paint should I be buying to paint over it?


texts: Deck posts - set in concrete or use anchors?

texts:
I'm planning to build an elevated deck. I was going to dig the holes for the posts, put them in and set them in quikrete. I've done this for a fence and I'm comfortable with the process.
A deck builder who gave me an estimate stated that's what he would do if he gets the job.

However, looking at my existing deck, it occurred to me that it might be better to use anchors so that if I ever have to replace the post I can do so easily?
I currently have a post that is bent and seriously cracked that is using an post base, so I can see how convenient it would be if I was to replace it. (I'm replacing the whole deck instead because it's in very bad shape)

Here are some pics, I'm pretty sure the cracking and bending are due to how the load is falling on the deck, but I also noticed that the post base is not set on a cement footing??

I wonder what is the better solution? What's the chance of having to replace a post?


texts: Why does my toilet still leak after replacing the wax ring?

texts: I just replaced the wax ring under my toilet. Now when you flush, it leaks worse than it did before! I am so confused! Is there something else that needs to be replaced?


texts: Why is my emergency generator hard to pull for starting?

texts:
My portable generator ran fine for 5 hours, then ran out of gas.  I refilled the tank but now the pull is excessively hard and the unit will not start.  I removed the spark plug and the pull was normal.

What next?


texts:
I recently bought an older (1920) house.  The wiring was upgraded ~20 years ago.  The breaker box is on the back porch.  Circuits run  though conduit to the floor of the porch, however the conduit ended there.  I've been re running the wires so that conduit goes all the way to the interior of the house.
While doing this I felt a slight tingle (less than a 9v battery on your tongue). When I touched an open blister to the conduit, while lying on my back (sweaty, electrolyte) under the porch.  I only felt this when the open blister touched, other parts of my skin did not feel anything.  I then put a volt meter on it and read 1v between the conduit and the earth.
There is a grounding wire going to the plumbing. However, the input to the plumbing was at some point changed to Pex, so it no longer has a true grounding path.  The meter clearly has a grounding wire going back to the transformer (above ground on a pole that I can visually follow).  Is this a problem?  Should the breaker box be connected to a grounding stake?


texts:
It looks like the washing machine draining pipe is clogged.
The pipe contains a component which I never saw before (see picture). Is it some kind of filter? If so, does it have a technical name and what is the correct procedure to clean it?


texts: How can I repair battery acid damage on a Caesar-stone counter?

texts:
A regular alkaline AA battery apparently leaked on our Caesar-stone (similar to Silestone) island counter top. If this is indeed the case, it has been left there for several weeks. It left a battery sized bleached area. It feels very slightly rougher than the surface around it. In real life it stands out even more than in the picture:

Interesting enough, when that area is wet the mark is much less apparent, almost invisible:

Reading on similar damage on-line it would seem that sanding the damaged area will not help, as the acid bleached the color of the quartz. I might try some gentle (800+ grit) sanding to completely smooth the surface, but that probably won't help with the color.

From the observation above (the stain almost disappearing when wet) I hope that a "wet-look" stone sealer might darken the damaged area without touching the non-porous undamaged surface around. Anyone had any experience with something of this sort? I'd really hate to have to replace the entire island counter top.

Note that the damage is in a part of the counter top away from the food preparation, so it should be only lightly used.


texts:
Following on from my another question, I'm now looking to add insulation to my under stair storage cupboard.
I want to add insulation to the back wall and floor.

There is a damp proof course on the back wall (two small bricks up) and all of the wood sits on thin strips of damp proof membrane. I was thinking about adding something like this polystyrene to the floor and wall. Then use plywood for flooring and panelling.
Questions:

would the polystyrene spanning the DPC cause a moisture bridge?
should I lay some membrane down first before the polystyrene?


texts:
So spring has arrived, and we have decided to build a 20' x 40' enclosed area in which to place a garden (we have many deer, rabbits and other garden veggie thieves in the area).

The plan is to build a 5' tall fence, using 4x4 cedar for the posts.  The posts would be set ~3' into the ground.  We are in an area with a pretty active freeze/thaw cycle (Minnesota).  The fence panels themselves would be framed metal garden mesh (i.e.- a doubled up 1x4 "frame" with heavy duty wire mesh typically used for horse fences in the center).  This should greatly reduce the wind load on the fence, as there will be little surface area.

I went and calculated the amount of quikrete I'd need to set the posts in, and it came to nearly $40/post (5 50lb bags per post).  With 14 posts, this ends up being $580 just for the concrete for the fence!  After doing some reading, it appears that some fence builders will use 3" of pea gravel as a base under the post, then fill around the post to about 1' below the surface with compacted pea gravel, then do 8" of concrete, topped with 4" of soil.  For a garden fence that will have relatively small lateral loads, does this seem to be an appropriate way to do things?  Any thoughts on how I should set these posts?


texts: Does anyone know the name of the manufacturer of this fixture? Circa 2000-2006 maybe? Need to see if parts are still available.


texts: What is the downside with using green dry wall vs cement backer board in a  tub/shower surround? If green board is completely sealed with RedGard or similar product, will it not be impervious to moisture?


texts:
I have three flood lights (of this model) controlled by a single switch (this one).

When turned on, the lights seem ok for a few minutes, but then they start to slowly blink on and off.  Each blink lasts between 10 - 30 seconds.  So, a light will be on for 10 seconds, off for 20 seconds, on for 15 seconds, off again for 30 seconds, etc.

The length of time between blinks is variable and the lights are not in sync with each other.  The effect is like a slow-motion disco.

The lights were previously on a dimmer.  It was suggested to me that the dimmer switch might be at fault, so I replaced it with a normal switch. The problem has not gone away.  When I had the dimmer, I could set the dimmer at half power and the problem would not occur (though I would be stuck with constant mood lighting).

I had an electrician come out, inspect the problem, and give up.  He suspected heat-related issues, but he checked the temperature and said it seemed ok.

Edit:

Based on suggestions in the comments, I have replaced one of the CFLs with a 12 watt LEDs (this kind).

Unlike the CFL bulbs, the LED bulb has a noticeable flickering when it is on.  In addition, it also still exhibits the "blinking" effect described above.  In other words, the problem persists.

I could replace the other two CFL bulbs, if somebody thinks that one of the other bulbs may be causing issues with its siblings.  I don't know what I am doing, but this seems unlikely to me, so I have started with replacing only a single bulb.

Would using incandescent bulbs make a difference?


texts: Can I drain two clothes washers into a shared two-inch pipe?

texts:
I am installing a second washing machine in a different part of the house and want to connect the two washers to the same drain(2 inch pipe). The current washer is in the basement with basic setup of vertical 2" pipe drain about 3 feet above concrete floor going down to trap about one foot from floor.
I want to install a second washer drain going through the main floor to the basement, across the basement ceiling about 20 feet, down basement wall about 8 feet to meet up with the first washer drain.  Both washers connecting through y-joint or t-joint would be emptying through the same p-trap.  Is that okay?


texts:
I want to add power outlets to a side of my garage that currently has none but am struggling to find wiring diagrams for a 240v switch that will be connected to an outlet. Is it as easy as 2 hots connected to the bottom two screws of a double pole switch and then 2 hots out of the top two screws with a ground wire attached? I just haven't had any luck finding anything to confirm this.
My garage functions as both a hobby space and where my kids store their bikes, scooters, etc. I want to wire switches upstream of the outlets so I can keep my tools plugged in and not be concerned about a child messing around and accidentally turning a tool on.


texts:
I have a small section in my house that acts as "utility closet" that does not have tile like the rest of the adjacent environment (sorry for the junk laying around):

My plan is to use some leftover tiles I have found in the shed and finish that part. I am unsure what I need to do, in order to affix the tile to the substrate that is some old vinyl and direct plywood where that is torn. This is a detail picture of how the rest of the floor:

To me it looks like they used thinset directly over the vinyl.
I plan to renovate for real this house in a few years, and the current floor is in a pretty good shape anyway, so I don't want to go overboard.
Can I just:

Fix the holes in the plywood with similar material
???
Apply thinset, tiles, and grout

It does not seem they used backerboard or uncoupling membrane for the rest of the floor...


texts: Wiring a compressor to an external building

texts: I have run 2,2,2,4 in conduit underground to a 100amp box. In the house the ground an neutral are bonded together but in the shed they are separated(isolated). I'm connecting a compressor through a disconnect box which only has L1, L2 and ground do I need a different box? Can the ground and neutrals be connected together like in the house? BTW the compressor is a 60 gallon 5HP 240V unit. I wanted a disconnect box so I can use a waterproof wip to the compressor.


texts:
There is no screw (or covered screw) to remove the handles from this sink. I do not know the brand name.

Update: I figure it out how to unscrew it.


texts: Why do builders say that wet concrete/mortar is not as strong?

texts:
I have been watching a few videos demonstrating the mixing of mortar and cement and a constant theme is that you must not have the mix too runny.

I cannot fathom the reason... Does anyone care to elaborate?

My only guess is that a watery mix will have the layers settle in their different sedimentary layers with the fine cement settling to the bottom...


texts:
I own this Infinity satellite surrounding speakers and few days ago one of it rattles like its voice coil come loose and rubbing the magnetic gap.

I wanted to dismantle its cabinet to change the speaker driver but unfortunately this cabinet looks like glued.

I appreciate any information on how to get this thing opened with minimum or no damage on its surface.


texts: Light flashes on then turns off. What do I look for?

texts:
I just moved into my first home and the light fixture in the water closet broke.  I replaced the fixture with a new one, but the light only flashes on, then turns off.  I checked for loose connections, but that didn't solve the issue.  Help me troubleshoot.

I thought it might be the switch so I pulled off the switch plate and found this mess:

Can anyone tell me if it's wired correctly?  There are five (5) wires, each with hot, neutral, and ground all coming into the box.  As far as I know, the switches only control the light and fan, respectively.  I have no idea what the other 3 wires might be for.  Here is a diagram showing the wiring:


texts: Is the melting pattern on this roof a sign of really poor insulation in the knee walls?  Thinking about purchasing, but I don't want to spend my life fighting a poorly designed/insulated house if it's a hard fix.


texts: One LED has massive delay before turning on

texts:
I searched for similar issues, but didn't find one exactly like I am experiencing.  I recently replaced four old light fixtures with LED light fixturess in an existing room.  I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVM5Q29/
In addition, I replaced 2 older dimmer switches with LED compatible ones.
The install was very easy. Everything worked right away.  I'm not sure if the problem happened the next day or if it was good for a couple of day, but now when I turn the lights on first thing in the morning 3 of them light up right away and the 4th does not.  After 30-60 minutes the light comes on and works fine for the whole day.  This is the same every morning.
I assumed the LED fixture was bad so I ordered a single replacement and installed it.  When I installed it it worked right away.  However the next morning it didn't come on again.  So I don't think it is a problem with the light.
If the switch was the issue I don't understand why it would only affect the one light. The other 3 always work right away.
I'm not sure what to try short of talking to an electrician.
UPDATE #1
This morning, I turned on the lights at 8:10 and it is 10:51 and the light still hasn't come on.  Maybe this is getting worse or is completely not working now.  I am going to buy a simple light switch and switch out the dimmer to see if it makes a difference.


texts: Rubberized wood coatings for decks: Can they be pressure-washed to clean them?

texts:
Does anyone know whether rubberized wood coating products (for outdoor decks) can be pressure washed?  I mean, can they be pressure-washed to clean them, not to remove the coating?

Thanks -- I will look forward to any answers you might have. I am considering building a new deck and using one of these new rubberized products as my coating because outdoor wood simply does not last long here in Florida. My goal is to get maximum protection from rain/sun/rot and to have a deck which lasts thirty years without being refinished.  By the way, I am just DYI, not a professional contractor.


texts: Hanging Drywall Against Finished Ceiling

texts: I removed the drywall on my walls as part of a bathroom renovation project and now I am at the stage where I put up new drywall on the walls. I did not remove the ceiling drywall so I am going to butt the new drywall on the walls up to the finished ceiling from before. Can I simply tape these joints against the ceiling without removing the previous tape and finish or should I scrape the portion of the ceiling that the new tape will be applied before I put on the new tape?


texts: Will gently hammering thumbtacks into my wall help them stay better?

texts:
So I'm thinking about fake-upholstering a wall in my bedroom in my apartment to create a focal wall without having to paint. I don't want to drill holes 'cause I'll be moving out of there in like 9 months, so I figure I'll just thumbtack the fabric to the wall, hiding the tacks.

Would hammering in the thumbtacks/pushpins into the wall gently help these thumbtacks stay in the wall better? If not, what will? I know that not moving or re-tacking the thumbtack will help it stay, but any other suggestions would be awesome.


texts: How do I install an air conditioner on a horizontal sliding double window that has a 51/2 inch gap between the 2 windows?

texts: I have a double horizontally sliding window (like a lot of homes in Canada). The windows are about 51/2 inches apart. I want to install a regular 10,000 BTU air conditioner in the window but I don't know how. Can anyone help me?


texts: Chargers for NI-CD versus NI-MH batteries

texts: Is it safe to use an original DeWalt 9 volt battery charger (DW9118) made for NI-CD batteries on a non-OEM NI-MH type 9 volt battery made for DeWalt products?


texts: Remodel Condo: Where to start and finish

texts:
I'm preparing to remodel my condo and need an idea of where I should start. This is important because I will be living in the condo as I remodel and cannot do it all at once so to speak. My condo is two stories and each flour has about 450 square feet.

I'm thinking I should start with the main floor first beginning with the downstairs bathroom, then kitchen, then dining/living room. Once that is done I figure I can move my bedroom and office furniture downstairs and begin the upstairs remodel.

What is the best practice; should I have the guts of my condo inspected first? Thanks, any help is appreciated.


texts: How to install reclaimed stone pathway without plastic edging?

texts: I;m installing a  3' wide path made out of reclaimed stones. Is there a proper way to install this path without using plastic edging on the sides of the path? These paths have been done before and all over the city of Cleveland. The finished product looks very similar to a cobblestone path


texts: How to desynchronize LED lighting refresh (blink / flicker) rates?

texts:
LED lighting drives a couple members of my family insane. The refresh rate is horrible and we are rather sensitive to it.  It becomes markedly worse when dimming LEDs are used at lower levels.

How can one change the sync rate between lights so that the various bulbs "fire" at different intervals?

It seems as though one should be able to add a small circuit or capacitor to the bulb sockets that would desynchronize the lights so that they are going off and on at different times and thus the refresh rate would appear as constant to the observer...


texts: Toilet fill value hissing and dripping after it reaches the stopping level.

texts:
The toilet fills and the float works but after the water level reaches 1” below overflow tube the float is all the way up but the water still drips very slowly into the tank.. In  about 30 minutes water covers covers the top of the overflow tube and drips down the tube continually. This toilet has a donut shaped float around the fill valve that rises and stops incoming water except for the drip.
Flapper works well with no leaking around it.
I’ve adjusted the adjustment screw so the main flow of water is stopped about 1 inch below top of overflow tube. No mater how much I turn the screw  water still drips until it is dripping over the tube.
 How do I stop the water from dripping and then eventually going over the top of the overflow tube?


texts: identifying drainage problems without pulling up the floor

texts: Help. We bought a house 2 yrs ago and remodeled it to within an inch of its life. Both my husband and I have mold allergies. The house is on a slab so we pulled all carpet and put in moisture barrier and new bamboo flooring. The flooring is continuous throughout the whole house. In Jan the water heater leaked and took out the flooring in a couple of rooms. We had a water remediation company that dealt with the damage and we hired someone to rebuild. Now we have several areas in an adjacent part of the house smell like mold and the flooring is been getting ever so slightly warped - I thought maybe the flooring was installed too tight but the boards are getting increasingly worse. There is no other evidence of the mold besides the faint smell and us getting sicker and sicker. I called the water remediation company who said there is no way for them to determine where this is coming from. I had a leak detection company come and they determined there is no active leak from our plumbing. They found several areas of moisture, ranging from 25-30% and said that is way too high, we either have damage from the water heater in Jan or we have drainage problems. How the heck do we figure out if we have drainage problems without ripping out the flooring? If we start ripping out the flooring and it lets mold out we have to move. The water remediation co does not want to be involved unless we determine they are the cause. Is there someone who can say for sure we have drainage problems? I am so confused as to what to do next.


texts: hello i want to create a stove which uses briquettes or wood for cooking at my remote house which has no access to gas nor electricity. So currently i am looking for an affordable insulator so as to attain less heat loss. Can you suggest any insulator.


texts: Bidet sprayer install and toilet leak at supply line

texts:
I bought a bidet sprayer handheld to install on one of my toilets. I followed all the steps given and it is leaking where the water supply line and T adapter connect. I tried to remove the bidet and rehook the toilet up as is and now its leaking at supply like to bottom of toilet.
I know the supply line is old but its one that can't be replace. I have tried adding a washer and plumbers tape nothing is working.


texts: My house is nearing 20 years, what will break soon?

texts:
Okay, I recently learned that most appliances/things start breaking once the house reaches around 20 years. I'm running 19 now.

From what I have heard, roof (although mine is apparently a 30 year roof), washer/dryer, stove, dishwasher, refrigerator, water heater (i have decided to replace it without waiting for it to break) will all start breaking by this time. Luckily my heater and A/C system is only 5 years old.

Is this generally true? I know it probably depends on the usage etc etc. I'm a first time home owner with 3 years under the belt now. I'm still learning even some of the basic things in most categories. So, my question is, is there anything I need to be wary of, anything I can do to prolong the life of these?

Everything is going up in price. To install a new water heater, it costs around $1050 with all the code equipment, installation etc. So, if I can prolong anything, I will.


texts: MyInfinity thermostat dropping connection with Carrier server

texts:
My MyInfinity thermostat keeps randomly dropping connection carrier server. Wifi connectivity is stable (Arris TG1682g modem). Thermostat panel shows not connected to www.api.ing.carrier.com

Thermostat Model number: systxccitc01-b
Software version: 131625-01.32

Any ideas on what may be causing this and how to fix this? Thanks.


texts: Adding a two-way circuit to a three-way circuit

texts:
I have two overhead lights controlled by two separate circuits of two three-way switches.

One is wired like this:

The other is wired like this:

There are two three-way switches for the overhead light in a three gang box.  Is there a way to add a separately controlled single pole switched light using the feed from the three-way switches just before the overhead light in the first diagram.


texts: Can I paint a deck when wet weather is forecasted?

texts: I am planning on painting my mothers deck and I have a limited amount of time.  I am planning on painting it on Saturday, but I saw there is forecast for rain.  I am wondering if it would be better to paint before or after the rain.  I could possibly paint it on Friday or Monday, but with the sanding and priming I have to do, I can't really do much earlier and my mom comes back on Tuesday.  I'm planning on power washing too, probably Wednesday morning because it's supposed to be pretty warm that day, so it would dry well.


texts: Is interior fresh air venting suitable for new furnaces?

texts:
I have two new Carrier Infinity CNPVP high efficiency direct-vent furnaces in my basement for my 3500 sf house. The air intakes for both units are not plumbed outside but instead are drawing air from right above the unit. Apparently there were issues getting access to an outside wall. My questions are:

Is this venting OK?
Will it hurt my efficiency?
If I do have to vent it outside can I use flexible pipe or can I gang both furnaces into a single input pipe?


texts: I have a 3 way switch working the lights in my son’s room. The box has a single 14/3 cable running to the switch. Id like to put an outlet directly below it the would ideally be always on. I can't figure out how I'd accomplish this without the switch also working the outlet. If it does have to be a switched outlet can I wire it so the outlet is on when the lights are off? I'd like to put a night light in the outlet.


texts: Older Delta 1400 1500 series too far recessed after changing shower walls

texts: So, I screwed up. Big Time. I demoed my bathroom and paid someone to rebuild it. I bought new shower to go in. The old one was direct to stud. The new one was not, the best way I can describe it is the inside wall of the shower wall is about 1-2 in away from the stud. the end result is when it was all done, I mean the entire bathroom is done, I go to put on the vanity plate and shower handle and it doesn't fit right. There is a gap because the entire shower mechanism is recessed in the wall too far for the new shower. I can not find anything to extend it. There are extenders, but they are all for other brands or other models of Delta. Its copper so there is no "flex" to it. I can't just unscrew and pull the mechanism forward, at least not enough. Any ideas?


texts: Repairing a boom lamp that keeps falling

texts:
I have a boom lamp from CB2 that's about two years old in my living room. The angle between the arm and the stand is adjustable. Unfortunately, the mechanism that holds the lamp up (I'm afraid I don't know the correct term for it, but you can see it below) seems to have stopped working and now within a day or two of my adjusting it, it succumbs to gravity and the lamp head falls to the lowest possible setting. Is there anything I can do to keep the head of the lamp up short of epoxying it in place?

EDIT: at the risk of outing myself as a complete noob I have attached an image below with the component I plan to fit the washer to circled in red. The washer will go inside of the joint mechanism so that it's not visible when the lamp is fully assembled.


texts: How to fix newbies deck stain mistakes without sanding the whole deck

texts:
I applied Thompson Waterproof semi-transparent stain to sanded and cleaned deck(pressure treated wood approximately a year old)  It was nice dry summery day with temp around 70 and I started first using a sprayer to apply the stain and then trying to spread the stain evenly with an applicator. However, the deck Look awful with ares of unevenly stained all over.   It may be too late to redcoat the deck with similar or darker stains since the deck repels water now.  Are there any tricks aivavole to fix this ?   Any comments will be appreciated.

Thanks.


texts: Is dirty batt insulation on attic floor a sign of air leakage?

texts:
My attic is 530 sqft, with soffits, ridge vent and some 18"X18" window with mesh over it (I cant recall its name). The house was built in 1960 and has batt insulation on the attic floor. The batt insulation is about 6" deep. It somewhat looks like the top left of this
(source: bpa.gov)
My question is, is it ok that the top of the batt insulation is dirty since my attic has soffit vents? As I've read, dirty means there's air movement, but doesn't it make sense that there's air movement where there are soffits and ridge vent? I'm trying to figure out if I need to air seal and insulate more.
Thanks


texts: Is click-lock flooring meant to be held down by baseboard?

texts:
I know that baseboard is used to cover the expansion gap when installing click lock flooring, but I'm wondering if part of its job is to actually prevent boards from lifting.

I recently installed click lock in one room. Leveled the floor, let the flooring acclimate, left an expansion gap, etc. But there is an area or two where, when you step on the floor, it dips a little. This is near a wall where I have not yet installed the base moulding.

Is it ok to push the floor down, install the moulding, and be done? Do I need to pull up the floor near there and shim?


texts: Two 3-way dimmers on 6 LED lights - lights blink when on

texts: I wired 6 LED ceiling lights, and I want to control it from two sides, so I used 3-way dimmers on both sides. Everything works, I can dim the lights from both sides, but they blink. I wired a 3-way cable from one dimmer to another, and lights from second dimmer. Can anyone help me?


texts: Connect "C" wire on boiler model number 1135-601

texts:
I've read several threads here and on the other websites but still can't figure out how to add C wire to my boiler wiring. I would like to replace my old mercury thermostat with Nest E or any other WiFi thermostats. My current one is connected with 2 wires (Red and White) but there is another green wire that is not connected to anything at the thermostat nor at the boiler. I am hoping I can convert that wire to "C" so I can avoid running additional wire.

First about my current set up:
I only have a heat boiler (no HVAC yet) with regular radiators in rooms that receive hot water from the boiler. Wire that leads from boiler to thermostat consists or Red and White wires that are connected to thermostat and additional Green wire that is not connected on either end.

Manual to my boiler

Old thermostat wiring
As you can see Red and White wires are connected to R and Y terminals on my old thermostat. If I connect them to Nest E boiler won't turn on and I hear constant clicking at the boiler side.

Boiler wiring
Here is where it gets confusing. Other threads mention to wire cables R and C at the boiler and then connect them directly to thermostat. My cables however are now connected to TSTAT (white wire) and some black part above the boiler (Red wire). R and C wires from the board are only connected to black part above my boiler and not to the thermostat cables at all. Picture from the link explains this much better.

Similar Thread
Seems like I have a same boiler but my wiring is currently configured differently as I've explained above.

Any feedback is appreciated. I am an IT guy but went through several construction jobs when I was in college so I am not afraid to do some work. However, if you guys think it is better to call specialist here let me know and I will do that. Problem is they don't seem to like these new thermostats as I was already told to keep old mercury one by couple of them when I was asking about how to make this work.
Let me know if you need any additional information.

Thanks,
Peter


texts: Can I ground a ceiling fan to another electrical ceiling box nearby?

texts: I want to install a ceiling fan where a ceiling light currently exists in my garage. The box for the current light has only two wires coming in however: a black & a white (no ground - looks like original wiring from 1950's). My question is how can I ground the ceiling fan if I install it in this 2-wire box location? Can I run the ground wire from the ceiling fan to a separate nearby ceiling light box which does have a ground wire coming into it? This nearby ceiling box is on the same circuit (i.e. both the ceiling fan and the nearby electrical box are controlled by the same circuit breaker). I realize I would of course need to first install a ceiling fan rated electrical box to attach the ceiling fan to, but can I ground the ceiling fan to this nearby ceiling light box which is properly grounded back to the circuit breaker panel?


texts: How to waterproof metalic electrical conduit entrance in concrete wall?

texts:
I have concrete garage inside the hill below house level. Electrical metal conduit runs underground and enters the garage at the top of concrete wall. It may 12"-15" below surface.
See pictures.

It's ok most of the time but during heavy and long rain, electric box inside garage starts leaking.

Electrician who installed it put some concrete around conduit but it's not a lot and obviously not enough. I dumped bucket of water there and I observed that leak happening.

So is there a good way to waterproof it? I am thinking - dig around the conduit, put something around it and then pout much more waterproof concrete (or whatever suitable material).


texts: How can I get the 2-part epoxy smell out of concrete?

texts:
Six months ago or more, my friend used a 2-part epoxy (no longer have the packaging, but it's a double-syringe with clear liquids, purchased at Home Hardware) on something, and some of it (one or both liquids) got on our basement floor, which is concrete someone had painted grey before we moved in.  Well, the reaction between the epoxy and (I had thought) the paint smells like a burning rag of cat pee.  After the nth cleaning of it with vinegar and baking soda, I one day just duct taped it over to at least stop the smell, since it was winter and (enough) fresh air (for this particular smell) was hard to come by in our house without central air without us freezing to death.

Today I decided to try sandpaper, and sanded down to the concrete, and no matter how much I sand I can now see the outline of the spill in a grey-brownish shadow on the white concrete, and I can still smell the damn stuff.  I smell three inches away on the floor and it smells neutral.  It's just that one spot, and it can stink up the whole room if I leave it.

What will take care of the smell (while not adding another smell to take care of)?


texts:
We've had a new extension added to the house which has a drain under the concrete. We're left with a 110mm (I think) vertical pipe which our waste needs to go down inside the extension.

This waste is only for the sink and dishwasher. Toilet and bathrooms go down a waste pipe at the other end of the house and meet on the main sewer pipe which was sorted by the builders.

How do I leave the connection between the 40mm from the sink to the 110mm?
Do I just drop some of the 40mm inside the 110mm pipe so that it can drain away?
Does the connection need to be blocked off with a rubber seal to stop smells?
I assume if I do need to seal it up that I'll need to have a T joint or similar above so that it can be unblocked if necessary.


texts: What do I need to do to raise a subfloor?

texts:
We're installing an engineered wood flooring in a room that already has a plywood subfloor. The engineered flooring will be 1/4" shy of the height of the hardwood in the other rooms, so I'd like to make up that difference underneath. My original thought was to use 1/4" XPS but that seems like it may not work.

If I go the 1/4" plywood route, what kind of connection do I need between the two subfloors? Can I just float the 1/4" on top? Or do I need to affix them together? If the latter, would some 1/2" brads be enough? Do I need to glue and screw?


texts: Can I combine two 12-2 cables to serve a NEMA 10-30 socket for dryer?

texts:
By remodeling my bedroom, I discovered my current tub is using 240v 20A, which are powered by two 12-2 cable. As an update, I don't want a this fancy tub, and also want to add a dryer in my bedroom. However, considering that my bedroom is on second floor and the panel is in the basement, it needs to cut so many thing to run a regular 10-3 wire upstairs. I though of a short cut to use those two 12-2 wire to create a 240V 30A socket which doesn't need a neutral.
So please correct me if I'm wrong. For a dryer which doesn't need a neutral wire in most case (NEMA 10-30 doesn't have neutral), and by the code to run 30A need 10gauge wire. (However most dryer only need 22.5A, as 5400w), I can combine two 12 gauge wire equivalent to 9 gauge in size. I can use each 12-2 cable as one 10 gauge wire to each pole of the NEMA10-30 socket to form a 240V.
Please tell me any danger might happen, or why not to do thing such like this.
Otherwise I can only get a NEMA 6-15 socket which only supports 240V 20A to some smaller ventless dryer which I don't want.
Also, I know code won't allow something like this. But to run a new wire would cost $5000+, which I just want to know are there any risk other than code.


texts: Resetting fence posts in very wet conditions

texts:
This winter the Minnesota frost heaved up 5 fence posts in my yard.

I've pulled out the 5 posts, and have found basically puddles of water and very very wet mud.  I shop-vac'd out the standing water, and have let the holes air out on nice days.  When it has rained I've tarped a 8x10ft area to try and get the water down hill.  This is what I have been doing for the past week.

Some of the holes are still filled with 3-4inches of water, others are very wet but not filled.  The holes right now are around 2ft deep, and I need to dig them to 4.5ft or so.

Should I just dig the holes with standing water?  Some of the holes are so wet I'm afraid a deeper hole would just collapse.  Or how can I dry them out?


texts: How to fix this bench vise that has a missing handle

texts:
I have a bench vise that is missing the piece that you grab onto to tighten it up.

Is it possible to replace this part?


texts: Can a plumbing drain and an electric wire be run in the same 4" sleeve between floors. Not sure of code requirements.


texts: Ventilating a cat box through the dryer exhaust duct

texts:
I have a small closet that doubles as a laundry room, with a stacked washer and dryer. It's also where I keep my cat's litter box.
It occurred to me that I could probably reduce the odor of the litter box by ventilating the litter box out through the dryer's exhaust duct.
I envision something like this, with an inline exhaust fan forcing air out of the house:

However, I want to avoid pumping the fouled air into the dryer (now that I realize it's been drawing in this air the whole time). Is there a best place to install the tee fitting / fan to avoid this? Would I need to run two exhaust fans?
Cat tax.


texts: Connecting an earth wire to distribution board

texts:
I have an earth grounding pin outside my house and an earth wire running from it to my distribution board, however the wire is not connected to the earth rail (ground rail?) In the DB.

(The house is already earthed but a new earth pin was installed as part of a recent upgrade but never connected up for some reason)

I'd like to connect it. I'm thinking I can simply connect the earth wire to the existing earth rail and be done with it.

Does that sound ok?, or does there need to be a circuit breaker between the earth wire and the earth rail in the DB?

This is in New Zealand, btw.

Thanks


texts: How does this sink faucet handle come off? (no visible screws)

texts: I've tried pulling up (to the point where I was afraid something would break) and am not getting any movement.  There are no holes or screws.  I considered prying but I'm afraid I'll damage the chrome ring underneath.  It is one solid piece except for that ring at the very bottom, which does not move.  Any alternative ideas?  Could applying heat hurt?


texts: How to make sure wooden bar is stable enough to mount hammock chair?

texts:
I would like to mount a hammock chair like the one below to the roof of my balcony. Or rather put a rope around a wooden bar (see the next photo) just like I were mounting it on a tree branch. However, I am not sure the wooden bar and its mounting points can stand the weight of me in the hammock (around 80kg). I've tried to do some pull ups and the bar seems stable enough, but I'm not sure if it would stand longer stresses and movements of the hammount chair.

What could I do to make sure?

Mounting of ceiling member to a root rafter:


texts: Is there a way to change the webbing on this picnic chair?

texts:
This picnic chair has lasted many years but now the webbing is fraying.

I do not see a way to change the webbing.

Is there a way to change the webbing?  (How?)

Thanks.


texts:
Our 30-year-old home as a 30-year-old yellow cast-iron tub that's gross.

What's the best way to go about swapping it out for a modern plastic or acryllic one? It's currently set into the wall by about 1cm on two sites (the front where the taps and drains are and on the long side) and it has brickwork has been built up on the 3rd side to match the height and make a small shelf, which has then been tiled.

The new baths we're looking at are almost the exact same length and depth, but they're slightly shallower (height).


texts: How should I build stud walls to make shelves in a room that has a sloping ceiling and floor?

texts:
We have a home that is 104 years old. There is a room that was added in the 1940's and built over a sloped roof from the rooms below. It is fully enclosed and we would like to add some shelving in the room.
   My question is how do we frame the walls that we want to build to attach shelving to. Both the floor and ceiling are sloped. Should we attach the footers and headers to the sloped floor and then cut the studs at angles to make them level or do we shim the footers/headers together or individually?
   Any thoughts would be appreciated.


texts: Add circuit off main disconnect or sub-panel required?

texts:
I have an outside main disconnect of 200 amp and a inside main panel in the garage. The disconnect panel outside also has 8 or 10 breaker slots in it: four are occupied by double breakers for sub-panels, one has a breaker for an exterior pool sub-panel in it, and one is used for a second floor bonus room sub-panel that has been switched off and disconnected.

What I would like to do is add a NEMA 14-50 outlet outside for an EV charging station. The main panel in the garage (closest to the location) is full.

My thought was to add a 50 amp breaker to the main disconnect panel and wire the outlet directly in. My question is can this be done, or does the main disconnect panel have to feed sub-panels only?

The wire run would be in PVC up into the attic space and down in front of the garage. I could place a sub-panel if needed above the outlet location.

I have been reading through the 2014 edition of the NFPA 70 but have yet to find an answer regarding criteria on what can be wired directly into the main disconnect panel.


texts: Anything wrong with this ground wire? Is it supposed to be insulated?

texts: Panel is from the late 1970's. Looks like there was some insulation on the ground wire, but most of it has come off. It's the same way through the crawlspace.


texts: Why are ground wires sometimes not insulated?

texts:
I recently replaced a single AC dimmer light switch that was one of two light switches in a larger box.  The ground wire leading to the switch was raw copper without any insulation.
After replacing the switch, and turning on the circuit breaker, the breaker sparked and tripped.  I'm thinking one of two things explain why:

The new FEIT switch was defective (which would be my 4th defective switch from the big carton of FEIT switches I bought).
The naked ground wire touched the contacts of the other switch in the box.

I turned off the breaker, put it a completely different switch, and did my best to get that naked ground wire as far away as possible from the other switch.  Then I flipped the breaker on (shielding my eyes, and standing away from the breaker box), and everything worked.
So my question: Why are ground wires sometimes installed without any insulation?  The cost of insulated wire is almost identical to that of non-insulated wire, so I tend to think cost is not the primary driver of this decision.


texts: What is a good strategy to support this deck?

texts:
I am planning a potential DIY job for a new deck that I want to put on my house.  This is roughly what I think we want

The house is roughly 36' long and the garage roughly 22'.  The door from the house is actually only about 15-16' from the outside corner and I want the deck to come about 11' down the back before the stairs come down from there.

The door is on the first level of the home above the rear exposed basement wall, so roughly 1 story high.  The house sits on a hill that slightly grades upwards towards the garage at roughly a 12/3 pitch, so the stairs will only be a half flight.

I am variable on how far outwards roughly I am comfortable with the deck extending from the house.

My question is, what would be the optimum layout for posts and beams to properly support this deck?  (Assuming that edges of the deck touching the building will be bolted to ledger boards)  I have built a simple square deck before but never anything with outside and inside corners and variable length.


texts:
My LG LRE6385ST radiant Electric range's left front element doesn't heat-up properly.  When using in smaller/single mode, it heats up then it cools down and never heats back up as it   used to before.
I did reset the power and tried this element in double/full mode and it works fine;  heats up, turn off then back on to maintain the temperature, No problem there.
Now   it has started to work OK again,   my question is:
Is the element dying and needs to be replaced?   OR  Are the control board parts are in their last stages?


texts: How to support a load bearing wall when no temporary wall can be constructed?

texts:
I am replacing a 4 ft doorway in a load bearing wall with a 4 ft pocket door, which necessitates replacing the header in the wall with an 8 ft header (4 ft of door + 2x 2 ft of door pocket).

The wall is parallel to the joists, but the house has a hip roof. The wall is an interior wall only because of an addition that was added onto this side of the house -- this wall used to be the exterior wall. As a result, the wall does bear the load of the roof hip. However, since the wall is parallel to the joists, I cannot simply support the portion of the wall above the header by supporting the room ceiling.

How does one support the wall temporarily so that the header can be changed?


texts: Electric Shock in Walls and Electrical Equipment

texts:
I'm getting a shock when I touch walls, electrical equipment like a water cooler, fridge, etc in my home. I have followed this procedure as I only have a DMM with me.

The readings I got after checking with DMM are:
L-N: 249.2 V
L-E: 255.5 V
N-E: 14.5 V

As mentioned in this procedure, theoretically voltage difference between neutral and earth will be zero and considered as proper earthing, but practically it will be 2 to 4 AC volts. Whereas, in my case, I'm getting around 14.5VAC which is significantly high. Hence, I may be getting shock in my home appliances.

Please help me in identifying and rectifying the issue!!


texts:
I have purchased a Bosch GSB 550 Professional drill.

While drilling, I have seen sparks inside the drilling machine, is it common or is it a matter of concern.

Appreciate any insight.


texts:
I have two solar arrays which totals close to 2 kw that I use to charge a 24 v 450 amps flooded lead-acid battery bank using 2 mppt charge controller of 30 and 40 amps.

Will it damage the battery by charging it too fast?


texts: What is the insulation in this hot water jacket?

texts:
Taking apart an old water heater and found this jacket - ripped to shreds, probably by the cat. Is it likely this contains asbestos or is it fibreglass?

Here is a video

Thanks.


texts: Outlet appears to be switched but switches don't work

texts:
Hi all new to the Diy boards. If there's any more info I can post, I'm happy to.

I just purchased a house and have been replacing some outlets. A few of the existing ones had two red wires into the top outlet, two black wires into the bottom with a white neutral coming out of each. The tabs on the hot side are broken.  Based on some googling, this seems to mean they are half-switched.

I wired my new outlets exactly the same, including the broken tab. The outlets all work fine but don't seem to be attached to the switch. There are two switches that don't appear to do anything. These outlets could be attached to either, both, or neither. I am unable to tell. I did not think to confirm before starting that the switches worked. However my wiring is identical so I doubt they did.

Did I do something wrong in the wiring? I appreciate  any advice you can give.


texts: Which pipes are what in this basement rough-in?

texts:
I have an unfinished basement that has rough-ins for plumbing.  I would like to finish it some day, and I'm trying to envision what a bathroom would look like.

What purpose are the pipes for?  Toilet?  Tub/Shower?  Sink?  Wetbar?


texts: How can I find the burnt dust-like odor in the house?

texts:
I'm trying to find what is causing an irritating smell in the house stronger in the room closest to the garage. It smells like burnt dust--like the smell when the heat comes on and the registers are dusty. Whatever it is makes my eyes burn.

I did have a broken line in the AC and freon was leaking. It was repaired a month before. Could that be the problem, still lingering.