texts: How do I convert from 3-way switches to dimmers?

texts:
I'm hoping you can provide me with some guidance on where I'm going wrong with my wiring of my new dimmer switches that I'm using to replace a pair of three-way switches. I've gotten everything wired up, hit the breaker, and nothing happened. No noise, no light, no change when I hit either switch.

Here are some quick, general facts:

Home was built in 2009
Replacing two, standard switches on three-way circuit with dimmer switches
Switches control four incandescent, can lights with 60W bulbs

Here are the manuals for the primary and auxiliary dimmer switches I bought to replace my standard switches:

Switch #1 (Primary) - GE 12724 (link removed)

Switch #2 (Auxiliary) - GE 12723 (link removed)

Here is the wiring diagram showing how the switches are supposed to be set up:

Click for larger view

Here is an album of images showing the wiring for my two outlet panels and the two switches I'm using:

Click for larger view

And here is a description of the numbers/letters in that album:

Outlet #1

Neutral wiring bundle (?) where jumper wire is tied in (one white, one beige - originally capped with wire nut)
Jumper wire included with dimmer switch
Traveler wire to outlet #2 (white - pulled out of original switch)
Line wire to breaker box (black - pulled out of original switch, tested 120V with multimeter)
Ground (bare copper - originally bundled and capped with wire nut)
Unknown - three black wires, unused
Unknown - one black and one beige wire, unused
Traveler wire to outlet #2 (red - pulled out of original switch)

Outlet #2

Traveler wire to outlet #1 (white - pulled out of original switch)
Load wire to light fixtures (black - pulled out of original switch)
Ground (bare copper - originally bundled and capped with wire nut)
Jumper wire included with dimmer switch
Neutral wiring bundle (?) where jumper wire is tied in (one white, two black - originally capped with wire nut)
Traveler wire to outlet #1 (red - pulled out of original switch)

Finally, here is a description of how I had it wired when it didn't work:

Outlet #1 (Setup)

A > 8

B > 2

C > 5

D > 3

E > 4

Outlet #2 (Setup)

X > 16

Y > 14

Z > 13

11 > 12

If I can clarify any of the above or if I need to provide more info, please let me know. Any input you can provide on what I should check or change would be greatly appreciated.

Here's the original switch configuration using the numbers from my original post:

Switch #1 (hot)

3 Traveler #1 (white wire) - brass terminal
4 Common (black wire, 120 V) - black terminal
8 Traveler #2 (red wire) - brass terminal

Switch #2 (load)

11 Traveler #1 (white wire) - brass terminal
12 Common (black wire) - black terminal
16 Traveler #2 (red wire) - brass terminal


texts:
I have a crack abutting and running the length of a door frame; a French door that opens outside. I have repaired drywall damage, so I tried to work from that angle; using spackling to patch it. The spackling didn't take and I'm left to wonder what I should actually do to repair this. I have attached a picture.

Any help is appreciated.


texts: Why doesn't my A/C get power when using the alternate C-wire thermostat hook-up method?

texts:
I changed my old Honeywell thermostat for a new Honeywell WiFi thermostat. I installed it just as the directions stated.  I used the alternate C-wire method as the old unit did not have one. Everything worked except for getting power to the air conditioner unit outside. I installed the old one back and it works just fine.

Any ideas as to why it doesn't get power with the new thermostat?


texts: When repairing a split table top, should I use dowels, biscuits, or something else?

texts:
We bought a 5' diameter table many years ago from a Macy's warehouse sale.

It's a 1" thick wood table top screwed to a cast iron leg/ base.

When we bought it, it had a slight warp about 2/3s from one edge that went all the way through. The wood was weak there (hence being on sale).

Well, after 10 year of MN humid summers and dry winters and a cross-country move in a truck, it finally split.

It's a nice enough table that I'd like to repair it, though. What would be the proper way to do this?

The table needs to be sanded and refinished anyways (10 years of kids abusing it) so I don't mind getting a bit rough with the thing.

My thoughts:

cut about 1/2" off from each side of the split.
find a 1" x 1" strip of some nice hardwood (perhaps a nice contrasting color--since I can't likely match it exactly, I might as well make it a design 'feature')
join the two halves of the table to this strip via a connection method (glue + mechanical).

So far so good? If that sounds good, my main question is what would the best connection method be? Biscuits? Dowels? Pocket Screws? Other ideas?

I'd then sand the whole thing down, refinish, and re-attach to the table legs.

Thoughts? Any better ideas?


texts:
My wife changed three incandescent porch light bulbs with LED bulbs and it kicked the circuit breaker.  I replaced the LED bulbs with incandescent bulbs.  When I turn on the light switch for the exterior light it now reads 7-8 volts at the switch.  There are two lights on the same breaker.  The interior light reads 120 volts at the switch.  The wiring from the circuit breaker goes to the indoor light and from there to the outdoor light.  The indoor light reads 120 volts at the light switch and as I mentioned the outdoor light reads 7-8 volts at the light switch.
I’m not sure whether the problem is the wiring connection from the good indoor light, the connection where the home wiring connects to the outdoor lamp or the lamp wiring is bad.  Any ideas?


texts: How do I properly size a 120v inline power relay to control a small air conditioner with my home automation system?

texts:
I have a 5,000 BTU, 115 volt, 4.8 amp, window-unit air conditioner I'd like to control from my home automation system.

I think easiest thing to do would be to plug the unit into an inline rely module that switches its power on and off.

How do I go about determining the load rating needed for such a relay module?

For example, I have an extra module here that says it's rated for 600W incandescent, 1/2 HP motor load, or 15 Amps resistive. Too small, right?


texts: are tamper resistant receptacles required when rewiring an old house

texts: rewiring an old house due to having knob and tube wiring.  it it code to have all receptacles tamper resistant?  Does the NEC require hard wired smoke and carbon monoxide detectors?  Are "in-use" cover plates required on outside gfci outlets?


texts: How do I remove/replace these window screens?

texts:
Description of window set, in case someone knows them by make: the lower pane is counterbalanced (weight? spring? I don't know) and the upper pane is fixed in place with a screen window underneath it. Each window frame also has a pair of lightweight, removable inner windows that can slide past each other. So that's three sets of rails for sliding windows, plus the upper window & screen on the exterior. The screens have one knife latch on each side, towards the top.

I took some pictures, with annotations.

When unlatched, the screens are free to slide around by about 1/4", but are completely trapped between a metal frame on the outside, and between the lower pane & a metal rim on the inside.

interior: the screen is trapped by a metal rim at the bottom (about 1/2") and the raisable window at the top. When the window is opened to its highest extent (touching the top of the frame) the pane blocks the screen by several inches.
exterior: the screen is trapped by metal rims on all four sides, by about 1/4" to 1/2".

Upon further inspection, I think the screens are supposed to pop outward, but I don't see any removable parts in the frame, except a few screws on the outside. Removing them might be the answer (or a red herring), but they're thoroughly seized in the aluminum frame.


texts: I have a propane fueled boiler for all my hot water / heating needs in USA. I was looking at the flame pattern today, it was louder than normal and “stuttering” on the left 3 burners . The right ones were purring. Not sure if this video will upload .


texts: Question about wood expansion for V-groove/shiplap boards

texts:
I have a lot of tongue and groove, reversible shiplap / v-groove boards from a big box store. I would like to use them for a plank ceiling that is 25x8ft. It is unclear to me how these boards allow for expansion since they sit flush together with seemingly no expansion gap on the V-groove side (see image). If I use the shiplap side down, do I need to rip the tongue to allow for expansion?
I plan to treat the boards before installation. I live in an area that stay low humidity year round.


texts: What is the term for a bathroom tile which wraps around a backerboard edge?

texts:
I am tiling my shower, and (unfortunately I think) the hardy backer board is not flush with the regular sheetrock surrounding the tub.  The board is 1/2" thick.

So, I need edge tile which wraps around the corner at a 90deg angle and down for 1/2".  What is the term for this type of tile?

It is not bull-nose tile obviously; I just don't know the term to be able to search or ask.


texts: Adding gas/oil mixture into unmixed gas tank?

texts:
My wife accidentally added about a cup of gas/oil mixture (50:1) into our lawn mower which takes unmixed fuel. If she fills the rest of the tank with regular gas will there be any problems? Do I have to empty all the gas out?

The tank holds .6 gallons of fuel.


texts: How could my Schlage SecureKey lock reprogram itself?

texts:
I have an old Schlage SecureKey installation. (Yes, I know about Schlage having lost the lawsuit almost a decade ago.) I haven't had any problems with the lock.
Recently, a weird thing happened. Leaving the house, and locking the door, the lock felt strange, like there was some resistance in it. Moments later, I turned around to re-enter to fetch a forgotten item, and, to my surprise, the key would not turn: I was locked out!
I experimented with the lock a little bit, and discovered that that it had got into a strange state, as if the combination had jumped one pin over. So that is to say, I was able to open the door by inserting the key only one position short: four pins, instead of all five. To my surprise, it turned! I tried all copies of the key, they all now worked like this.
Now I happen to have two reset keys for the lock: one for the current key (let's call that A) and one for another key shape (let's call it B).
I tried doing a "null reset" on the lock: A to A: put in the A reset key, rotated it to the programming position, pulled it out, put it back in, rotated back, withdrew. Firstly, I was surprised that the reset key worked, having been inserted all the way, like it is supposed to be even though the regular keys which have the A shape worked only in the partially inserted position. Anyway, A to A "null reset" that didn't accomplish anything, and may have made the problem worse. I seem to recall I was not able to turn an A key at all after that.   Then I tried doing an A to B reset. I confirmed that the lock took the B keys just fine. From there, I programmed back to A. Now everything seems good! The A keys all work fine again.
Can someone explain ... what the heck? And should that lock be replaced?
Oh, and one more "key" piece of information: recently I filed down the teeth a little bit on the key that I use because I got annoyed with it being a hard to withdraw: not from that lock, but from another ordinary lock keyed for the same key. I didn't mess with the notches of the key, of course, just the teeth/ridges, so the key works fine. It seems like too much of a coincidence: this deprogramming incident happened within two days of introducing the filed-down key, after "years of trouble-free operation".


texts: four way swich setup to control 2 outlets from 3 locations

texts:
I used an old book on running a four way switch circuit to run light from 3 locations, but in place of light I need two outlets.. book shows power to light first then to first switch. so I wired first outlet from panel then second outlet from it then to switch.  switches work properly on the second outlet but first one is always on

this is all new construction

novice here
thanks for any help


texts: Cabinets with existing dowels in the wrong place. How do I fill for new hinges?

texts:
My cabinet hinges are the sorely inadequate euro hinges that used a piece of plastic to hold the door shut.  These plastic pieces have broken on nearly every cabinet which requires the entire hinge to be replaced.  I cannot find any hinges that fit the original screw holes (not surprising), however I have an issue because the original hinges were screwed into plastic dowels.  The edge of the outside of these dowels lines up with the screw holes of every euro hinge I have tried that fits my cabinet.  How can I fill or fix the dowel space so that I can screw my new hinges into the cabinet doors?

I have added a link to photos of the cabinet door without the hinge, and with the new hinge placed in the door so that you can see where the holes intersect the door and existing dowel.


texts: Two shaver sockets on same circuit with extractor fan

texts:
I've just had a new bathroom installed(UK based) and the electrician has put two shaver sockets(110V and 220V outlets) and an extractor fan on the light circuit.

With two toothbrushes plugged into the shaver sockets, the extractor fan lasted about 3 weeks before buzzing and then completely failing(but still buzzing) after about 4 weeks.

I've had a few electricians around and they all seem in doubt as to what the issue is - was it a freak failure or did the two shaver sockets destroy the extractor fan?

The extractor fan has been replaced, but I'm not using the two shaver sockets at the moment as the buzz is quite loud when both are plugged in. With only one plugged in there is only a mild hum.

Does the extractor need to be on a separate circuit?


texts: How should I hang speakers with a keyhole mounting slot?

texts:
I have a pair of Sony speakers that I’m not quite too sure on how to hang on my wall. The backs look like this:

Would I just put a screw in my wall and hang it up like that? Would there be enough room for the speaker wire in the back?

What’s the best/correct method of hanging speakers like this?


texts: What is the proper way to install a exterior door in brick/drywall wall?

texts:
A little background: in Brazil drywall is kind of novelty yet, mostly used on comercial building. Houses here are still built only using bricks, with the jambs of door being affixed to the bricks either using PU foam or nails on wooden blocks lodged in the brick wall.

My house will have exterior brick wall (16 cm thick) with interior drywall (9 cm thick).

The exterior door jambs should be affixed to the bricks or to the drywall studs (metal studs here) or both?

What are "extension jambs"?

I was thinking on installing first the door on the brick wall and after that install the studs and hang the drywall and in the end install trims and any additional jambs, etc. Is that feasible? How should it be done?


texts: Hard-wired smoke detector chirps when light switch flipped

texts:
I have a hard wired smoke detector that is connected to the same circuit breaker as the two hallway lights. The two switches at the end of the hallway do not turn the smoke detector on and off, however before I added a three-way dimmer to the circuit, the alarm would chirp whenever switching the hallway lights on and off. I didn't quite understand what was happening, so I went ahead with my plan to install a three-way dimmer. Now with the dimmer switch installed, the smoke alarm turns on when I'm at any setting other than full brightness. I believe this can be explained by a voltage drop causing the alarm to trip.
This perplexes me because no switch position can turn the smoke alarm on or off, however it's acting like one end of the circuit connection is experiencing extra resistance whenever the dimmer is activated, or as previously when the circuit was inturrupted briefly when the switch was flipped.
The hallway switches behave as you would expect, turning alternately on and off when one or the other is flipped.
I was hoping for some suggestions as to how the alarm or switches might be wired to explain this, and how I could fix the problem so that the alarm doesn't do that.


texts: What type of washcloth bar should I put inside a fiberglass shower?

texts:
I have a fiberglass bath and shower.  I would really like to mount a bar inside it on the back wall for hanging washcloths up to dry.

I've tried the suction cup mounted ones with moderate success.  They stick for a few weeks at a time but after that they fall down and I have to go in and stick them back up.

If I bought a bar with screws, I'm not sure how I would screw it into the fiberglass. Is that even possible?

Are there other mounting options that I have overlooked?


texts: How do I remove drip marks in flat paint on smooth interior walls?

texts:
I recently had the walls and ceiling in my home office refinished with a smooth texture.  When I was painting the walls, in a couple of the corners, I bumped the roller against the adjacent wall.  I didn't notice this until after the paint dried so now I have circular drip marks in a couple of spots.  The paint is a flat interior latex.

How can I remove these marks without damaging the nice new texture (that I paid a not insignificant amount of money to get)?

Tools and supplies I have to hand include: full sheets of sandpaper in various grits, hand sander w/ also with various grits (I think 220 is the finest), Roto-Zip (but without any of the buffing/sanding/polishing accessories).  I can be convinced to get other tools or supplies within reason. :)


texts: The stone walkways around my house have all come apart to various degrees. I'd like to find a solution that will last for at least a few years. Is pouring a concrete base the right way to go? Or is there a less costly/labor-instensive solution that would work just as well?


texts: How to Rewire Powered Switch Controlling Half Hot Switched Outlet to Power Outlet as Always On and Control/Power Recessed Lighting

texts:
All:

I hope someone may enlighten me.  I have a switch with two lines running into it.  I believe the first to be power running from the breaker.  There are yellow (or white yellowed with age), black, and bare copper wires in this first line.  The second line has a yellow (or white yellowed with age), black, red and ground.  I believe that the second line travels to what is now a half hot switched outlet.

Within the outlet there are two lines entering.  The line from the switch entering into the outlet has yellow (or white yellowed with age), black, red and ground.  The red wire is connected to the switched outlet half, the black is connected to the other half of the outlet which is always on.

At the switch, the yellow wires (or white yellowed with age) are pigtailed.  The black wires are also pigtailed, but connected to the switch, as well.

At the outlet, the red are pigtailed.  The yellow wires (or white yellowed with age) are also pigtailed, but connected to the outlet as well.

It is my intention to install 4 recessed LED lights in the ceiling.  I was going to daisy chain all of the lights together and run that wire into the switch box.  I was going to install a dimmer light at the switch to control the lights, and I want the half hot outlet to be hot in both outlets at all times.  I no longer wish to control the outlet from the switch, but I want to continue providing it with power.

Please advise how and whether I am able to do this.  Any information would be helpful.  Thank you.


texts: Can I drill a hole through brick wall/lintel for A/C lines?

texts:
I'm looking to move the a/c refrigerant and return lines that are currently through the middle of a window opening to a more natural location so that a window can be installed in the opening.  I cleared out a 1" slot to relocate the a/c lines when I ran into a lintel in the top part of the window opening.  The idea of cutting the slot through the brick/foundation was to allow the a/c lines to move without calling somebody in to recapture the refrigerant.  I'll raise the a/c unit on a platform about 6" and the a/c lines will move up into that slot in the brick.

Now I am concerned that drilling a hole and then cutting entirely through the lintel with a reciprocating saw will weaken the integrity of the structure as it is supporting about 12' of bricks above.  The window opening is 30" wide.  The lintel can be viewed in the bottom of the slot that was cut but note that it extends into the brick wall about 6" as well and continues up into the brick (the back of the slot that was cut also is blocked by the lintel as it is L-shaped).


texts: Cannot undo tap/Faucet to replace washer

texts:
my mixer tap started to drip and has got worse to the point I have to turn off the water at the mains. I got the knobs off but despite using lots of penetrating oil (WD40) and leaving it for 24 then 48 hours, I cannot remove the brass valve part to get at the washer. I used a vise grips (yes, I know, did not have spanner) but it just has rounded the nut. I also tried it on the round flange part.

I assume I should be turning anti clockwise to undo? Any ideas how to get to the washer?

If I need to replace the complete tap, can this be done with the sink in place, access seems very limited. The pipe is 9/16 inch OD - is this then a 1/2 inch pipe (do you go by inside D?) - so is there a standard size for the nut for the pipe?


texts: I'm making my own airsoft gun and I need a pressure regulator for my HPA tank. It outputs 800 PSI which I need to bring down to about 130 PSI. Problem is, air pressure regulators that support 800 PSI cost around $120. I don't have the money for this, so I'm wondering if it'd be possible to use a ball valve that's almost completely closed to reduce the pressure. I found one that supports up to 1000 PSI on Amazon for around $7.


texts: What could cause fluorescent lights to sporadically not come on?

texts:
My kitchen has 9  26W fluorescent can lights (not CFLs - they have external ballasts). Often when I turn the switch on, particularly after they've been off for at least several minutes, about 4 of them won't light. They'll flash momentarily then stay dark. If I unseat the bulbs (handy being very tall :) ) and reseat them a time or three, the lights will come on. I've tried replacing bulbs, to no avail.

I'd assume bad ballasts, but a couple of things make that less likely in my mind:

While it's usually about 4 lights that don't come on, it's not the same 4. Some more commonly have the problem, but all 9 have at some point.
This has been happening since the ballasts were new (about 2 years ago). It might be getting a bit worse (i.e., more lights out on average) over time.

The lights are on a dedicated 15A circuit. They're switched by a 3-way switch. The ballasts are Sylvania QTR1x26T4. The wiring, circuit breaker, fixtures, ballasts, and bulbs are all about 2 years old.

Anybody know of possible causes for this behavior?


texts: Do I need jack studs for a [remodel] closet header that is perpendicular to ceiling joists?

texts:
Closets used to have full 8ft sliding doors.  Converting to bifolds that are 6'8'' tall.

So I need to put in a header and frame it out to standard size.

The ceiling joists run perpendicular to the closet doorway.

Can I nail the header to the joists and call it good (since the header will only be bearing the weight of itself and the doors)

Or should I put in jack studs to help transfer weight to the foundation?


texts: Can I put Hardie Board siding directly over old stucco?

texts:
I just bought an old house that has five different kinds of outside wall coverings.

I was thinking I could remove the fake stones and the old wooden siding and then place strapping over top of the stucco to attach the Hardie Board to without removing the old stucco.

Several things I have read online say that I should remove the old stucco first. That seems like a lot of work for what it's worth and am trying to get an idea of what I am getting myself into before I start.

Any advice or instructions would be appreciated. Do I have to remove the old stucco? Or can I go straight over it?

Here is a photo of the house, two different types of crushed rock stucco, a white cement type stucco, fake stone, and finally and wooden planks.


texts:
I have a re-occurring issue with my central air. I have changed filters, cleaned all three intake vents and even had a serviceman out on three different occasions (two separate companies).  My problem is low air pressure out of the cooling vents, and the outside line freezes up within one to two hours.  The temperature in the house is anywhere from 80 °F to 85 °F, even though the (digital programmable type) thermostat is set to anywhere from 77 °F to 79 °F.  After a couple of hours there is no change in temperature, less air pressure and a frozen line. All three serviceman say the Freon levels are good and air pressure is good, yet my home doesn't cool down.

This is becoming a costly issue with no coolness in sight. What's your suggestion?

Note: I have two adults, five kids and three dogs, and have never had this problem in any homes before.


texts: How do I select a diamond tuckpointing blade?

texts: what is the difference between the "sandwich" style and solid tuckpointing blades (besides cost)?  Why are so many of these blades 1/4 thick while the standard masonry joint is 3/8?


texts: I bought furnace filters in bulk. But my furnace is dead and had to be replaced. The old filters will no longer fit. The filter size is not all that common. I wonder if there are other use of the filter besides trying to sell them or give them away?


texts: Can the Distance of a Subpanel affect Outlet Tester Results

texts:
I got help with wiring my cabin here:
Requesting Evaluation of Power Plan at Rural Cabin

and here: Cabin Wiring Plan Revisited

I also put a follow up comment there, but now I'm not sure that was the right place to ask this, since others may have the same question.

So, the sub panel is about 300ft away from the main panel and is wired with 2 hots and a neutral plus ground, and the neutral is not bonded to ground at the subpanel, and is bonded at the main panel. This is brand new, the PoCo just turned on the power and installed their meter yesterday.

I have a little commercial electric tester, this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stop-Shock-GFCI-Outlet-Circuit-Tester-CE-HGT6120/204501748

When I plug it into the outlet the middle indicator goes green & the outer lights off ... then after about a half-second goes to where only the right red light is on.

Could the distance be affecting the tester?

I am tempted to disconnect my subpanel ground and bond the neutral and test it again.

Thanks in advance!


texts: The hot water pressure is low in my shower and tub

texts: What would cause the only the  hot water pressure to be low only in the shower. The pressure use to always be strong. It's not the shower head.


texts: Is it safe to ground/earth an extension cord with the radiator?

texts:
I just moved into a dutch student house without any grounded plugs which is quite usual around here. I get the 'Macbook Tingle' after some time, which solved by nudging the Macbook to the Radiator. and now I'm about to connect more computer appliances to an extension cord.

This makes me wonder: Can I earth the entire extension cord/ power strip with a crocodile clip to the radiator? Of course securing both sides properly. Needless to say I know this is not ideal but I'm also not keen on leaving it without anything.


texts: Tub to shower conversion plumbing questions

texts:
I'm in the middle of a tub to shower conversion but am a complete amateur when it comes to plumbing issues. The tub is out, the walls are open, we have the stand up shower kit bought. But upon looking at the existing plumbing I have a few questions.

1) Per this link: http://www.dndb.info/the-challenges-in-converting-bathtubs-to-showers/ it looks like we can't re-use the same drain line for the shower as we have in the tub (We're in Indiana not California but I'm not sure if that makes a difference). Would it be better just to cut the drain line back to main drain line and run new shower drain?

2) Since we're converting from tub to shower, we don't need the overflow drain cover anymore (the thing that you can push or pull and it stops up your drain so you can take a bath) can we just cap that section? I'm worried about venting, per this link: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/3t63ah/bathtub_to_shower_cut_drain_overflow_pipe/

3) Is there an easy (no soldering) way to convert two faucet handles (hot & cold) into one shower faucet handle?

Thanks for all help in advance.

EDIT: PICTURE TIME

Important things: Green circle- the two knobs we'd like to convert to one for a stand up shower. I heard mention of shark bite fittings and I like that idea as we've already done a lot of work pulling out all of the water damage.

Blue circle- Overflow drain cover (if that's the right term). Can we cut this back and cap it?

Non-important thing: Red circle- this is an older house but I still had hope I could remove the existing drain from the drain pipe but this is not the case, I've tried everything (drain plug wrench, crow bar, dremel) and that drain will not come up, so we'll have to cut that pipe unfortunately.

EDIT 2: After getting quotes from two plumbers, I feel like the job is big enough to require a professional, especially since the drain line is a 1 1/2 inch line and it needs to be a 2 inch line for the shower. Thanks to everyone for their input.


texts: Are there wood sealers that are safe for fresh or saltwater marine use?

texts: I have a wood dock over a lake.  It is time to clean and seal the dock.  I am planning on pressure washing the dock first, then I am planning to have a clear seal.  Looking at products in Lowe's and Depot I can't determine what is safe to use. I don't want it to look like a BP spill or kill any life forms.


texts: Hi I have just got home to see our neighbour at the back has put guttering running straight onto our outhouse roof. I wondered if this was allowed or should the pipe be going right down to the guttering below? I'm worried this will cause a leak in the roof if we get heavy rain? Any help appreciated


texts:
I recently replaced my bathroom sink and the new drain pipe isn't threaded like the older one.  So instead of a connection to the P trap with a threaded male/female piece and a tightening ring, the new drain simply slides into the P trap piece.  This is where the leak is happening.  I tried to use silicone to seal the open space but if running the water on a higher pressure, or if soap is used, the leak is immediate.   What is the best way to eliminate the leak?  Help!

Note: Both new and old piping is PVC.


texts: Removing and adding skirting boards when installing floors?

texts:
I read for carpet it should be installed without removng skirting.  For laimnate, wood and tiles one should remove the skirting board, lay the floor, then re-add the skirting board. .  Why so?

What about for vinyl sheet, is it recommended to remove the skirting then re-add and why?  Can you get away with installing while skirting board is on?

Thanks.


texts: Can I reduce the grinding and humming noise from my portable air con's compressor?

texts: My portable air conditioner's compressor can get quite noisy, it's like a vibrating pulsing grinding noise. Is it possible to reduce this noise?


texts:
I am doing my bathroom remodeling. I have to reframe my ceiling as old one is all crooked. The issue I am facing is part of my walls are gypsum blocks (not drywall)
What would be the best anchors to use to attach tracks for the perimeter on such walls. Somehow plastic with screw seems bit unreliable (I might be mistaken of cause).
Now it is a wooden frame, which is nailed to the surrounding walls. (I am not sure if I could attach pictures here). Basically it covers the all the pipes above.  Drywall with some plaster was attached to the old wooden frame before.
Now wood is nailed to the surrounding walls for the whole perimeter and the joist are ran across (wooden joists). The whole assembly is wobbling, So as I said, I plan to attach metal trucks and studs.  I have to somehow attach tracks at the perimeter. Some walls are from cinder blocks and there is not an issue to make secure attachment.
Question is: What to use on a gypsum blocks.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


texts: Why is my plumber suggesting that I replace the poly water supply line to my house?

texts:
All the houses in my subdivision were built in 1985, and they all have poly main water lines to the house. My line is spraying water right at the fitting that connects to my water meter.
The plumber tells me the fitting for this type of poly pipe is no longer made nor available, and said everyone with this poly usually just replaces the whole line, (for $4500). He recommends Wirsbo Propex. In other words, he says that he can't just cut off the leaking section of line because he has no fittings to reconnect it to the meter. (I'm not sure I can believe all this, as naturally he'd rather do the $4500 repair.)
There are plenty of YouTube poly videos showing how quick and easy DIY it is to add connectors to this line. Some are simply metal inserts that are barbed on one side (inserted into the poly after heating it) and threaded screws on the other, then you screw an adaptor on to connect to any type of line you want, copper, PVC, pex, etc. Thing is, I can't find any of these fittings online, but maybe I just haven't searched enough. I could repair this myself if I could find these fittings.
It also just occurred to me that this poly line is really large, diameter wise, much larger than the 3/4" pipes used in the house. Instead of digging up the whole yard, I'm wondering if I can't snake a smaller diameter (1/2") PEX line through the poly, from the meter to the house. It's a fairly straight shot from what I can tell. It has the added bonus of acting like an insulator/protective covering.
Any thoughts or comments?


texts: The other day I went out to water my yard after seeding. When I was done, I turned the knob on faucet to shut the water off and felt a snap. Water started coming out of where knob goes on. I shut the main water off and removed the valve inside. It appears that the stem busted off just before the the threads that screw the valve into the fitting, leaving the piece that busted off still threaded inside and the rest of the stem I was able to get out. It is 12 inch frost free faucet. I am wondering how to replace faucet. My question is, in most cases does this type of faucet screw onto the fitting inside of wall or are they usually soldered on? I am afraid to try and turn the fitting for fear of it being soldered on and busting it


texts: Where should I start laying a nail down hardwood floor in this room?

texts: I am planning on installing a nail-down 2 1/4" hardwood floor in our great room. Each wall of the room has an "interruption", so I'm wondering where the best place to start is. One side has a large doorway into the entryway and a built-in bookshelf, another has huge sliding glass doors, another has a large brick fireplace, and the last wall has a doorway into the kitchen (see layout picture). Any idea on the best place to start? Thanks for any advice.


texts: Black and white wires crossed in the ceiling

texts:
Replacing a ceiling fixture in a house (1989); removed the old fixture, which worked perfectly fine, but now I see up into the box there are 3 cables to this box that includes two blacks and one white that are pigtailed, as you can see in this short video clip. I am thinking this qualifies as a TAR (That Ain't Right)?

Should I be calling in the big guns, or can I sleep at night with this scenario, if I just connect the new fixture as the old one was installed?


texts: How can I reconvert a natural gas fire from propane back to natural gas?

texts: A friend gave me a Napoleon B36DFN gas fire, and had it converted to propane and there is a tag on the fire that states the conversion happened using #54 connection. I now wish to convert it back to natural gas, and for the life of me I can't get an answer from the manufacturer Napoleon. I guess its a liability thing! I live in Canada.


texts: Resolving two 3-Way Switches for two separate lights on one Combination Switch

texts:
I am now attempting to wire two existing three way toggle switches to a Leviton 5643 three way combination switch for two 3-way lights on the same circuit - Pictures included.
Box 1 is what I term the “main box” because it is next to the remote for the fan.
It is important to know that the fan needs continual power so the remote will work.
We can turn the fan/light on and off with both three way switches located at box 1 and 2
Box 1 holds one three way switch
2 gang Box 2 holds two three way switches
In Box 2 - Switch 1 (left switch) works with the fan/light
In Box 2 - Switch 2 (right switch) works with the foyer light
After much work and testing I found the following.
Box 1 is providing the power to the ceiling fan/light.
Box 2 is providing the power to box 1.
I ran a new wire to the 2 gang Box 2 to handle the recessed lighting.
I will leave the wiring for box 1 as is for the ceiling fan/light.
I will be adding a new 15a Leviton Decora 3-way combination switch to handle the power to and from the ceiling fan/light and foyer light.
TOTALLY LOSING MY MIND NOW!
I attempted to wire things as instructed by the combination three way switch and it tripped the breaker. I un wired everything just to see what is happening and found it odd that I was getting power from the Foyer three way wires when I have everything unconnected.
Below is Box 2 showing all of the unconnected wires except for the neutrals.
This box held two three way toggles. I added a new 14/2 wire for the dimmer.

Below is box 1 with 3-way toggle.

Below is the inside of box 1 showing two wires (one 14/3 and one 14/2).
The 3 way wire goes over to box 2 and the 14/2 wire goes to the ceiling fan/light.

Below shows the old wiring for Box 2

Below shows the old wiring with the two 3 way toggles in place. Not sure why the black wires are wrapped around the two sets of travelers?

Below is the wiring image I used to illustrate my situation. Obviously the wiring shown may not reflect what I have because the box 2 on the right only reflects one 3 way toggle switch.

Two gang box from inside the closet.


texts: What test can I do to my washer's gearbox to determine whether or not it is bad?

texts:
I have a Kenmore washing machine (model 110.92273100) that doesn't spin.  I've taken the gearbox off, and when I spin the input shaft (motor coupler), it seems to act the way I would expect.  When I spin the input shaft one way, the outer output shaft (which attaches to the drum) spins.  When I spin the input shaft the other way, the agitator shaft slowly spins back and forth.  However, I can hold the output shafts still with my hand, and continue to spin the input shaft.

Does the fact that I can spin the input shaft while holding the output shaft still mean that my gearbox is bad and needs to be replaced, or is it supposed to do that?

Is there a different test that can be done to determine whether or not my gearbox needs to be replaced?


texts: How can I verify that my ceiling fan is properly grounded

texts:
Up front, my question is...how do I most easily and safely check to see if my ceiling fan is grounded?

Now for the explanation. I recently installed 2 identical ceiling fans about a day apart in my two spare bedrooms. Both had fans in them previously; I'm sure they are properly secured in the ceiling. The question arose from when I was installing the second fan. Barely looking at the directions, I came to the part where it was time to properly ground the fan.

As I was pigtailing the two green wires and the bare copper ground together, I had an "uh-oh" moment where I don't remember doing this for the first fan. I feel like I only pigtailed the two green-sheathed wires together and the bare copper is up there unattached somewhere. I may have done this, but I don't remember.

I've already tested them both to see if they work, no problem there. I know touching any metal part of the fan would give me the answer (wink-wink), but I of course don't want to risk being wrong. Is there any easy and SAFE way to determine if it is grounded, or alternately could someone tell me the most efficient way to disassemble the fan the least to accomplish this?

I really do feel like I probably did it right, following the directions religiously the first time. It was just a weird feeling during the installation of the second fan to have that uh-oh moment. I just want the easiest route to being assured.

I thank you for your responses.


texts: Installing Vapour Barrier in Crawlspace with Water Heater

texts:
I'm installing a vapour barrier over the dirt floor in my crawlspace. There is a water heater already installed and I'm wondering if it's a good idea to tape the vapour barrier directly to the bottom of the water tank instead of eptying it, disconnecting it, sliding the plastic sheet underneath and putting everything back together. My only real concern is that the moisture under the vapour barrier will cause the base of the tank to rust.

Thanks.


texts: What's the deal with this (fake?) chimney on my house?

texts:
I have a 1950's cape cod, which I moved into earlier this year.

The home was not advertised as having a fireplace and I certainly do not see any indication that there was or could've ever been one here.

Having said that, there's a chimney on one side of the house. My dad said that if there's a chimney that can only be because there was a fireplace, so it must've just been built over.

The indoor parts of the house that the chimney aligns with are just

my small dining room
the attic (now converted into extra bedrooms)
the unfinished part of my basement, behind the washer and dryer, along the ugly brick walls

I don't see any possible way there could've ever been a fireplace in any of these places. I also have no idea what the point of a fake chimney would be. I'd love to have a fireplace and I'm just curious, so if you can shed any light I would appreciate it.


texts: What’s a proper way to wire a dishwasher

texts:
I am in the process of wiring for a second dishwasher. The first one is hardwired and has a wall switch.
My thought is to put the old work outlets for both dishwashers inside the wall (it’s a wood frame exterior wall) fish the wires from under the floor, and do away with the wall switch for the original dw for consistency. I will attach appliance plugs to both dishwashers. Is this a good plan? Photos of both locations attached. Thanks!


texts: Hot water tank leaking at bottom could it go from a trickle to a gush?

texts:
My 20 yr. old gas water heater that's located in my basement has had a slow leak for 6 mos. My husband doesn't feel the need to replace it yet and feels we can just continue soak up the water with a rug/rags  until it doesn't heat up any more. I fear that it will one day break through the rusty bottom and leak 40 gals. like a faucet left on not just a trickle. He feels I'm being over worried about it and to wait another month after our company of 3 more people come and go. It's not the fittings their fine but I can see at the very bottom under the white tank it is visibly rusty and wet. What's your opinion?
Thanks,
Jenny


texts: How to seal a unused thimble in exhaust chimney

texts:
I have a 1955 farm home which has a chimney currently being used to exhaust an oil furnace. The furnace is in the basement, and on the main floor there was a thimble extending out on each side of the chimney. When I had a chimney expert out to inspect the chimneys, he suggested I brick/mortar one side up and place a thimble cover plate on the other side. In case the next owners move away from the oil furnace and want to put in a wood burning stove. So I followed his advice and blocked in one side and mortared it up. The side that still has an accessible thimble is in the kitchen and it currently has an original thimble cover plate (tension rods on back that slip into thimble) on it that was hand painted. I also have carbon monoxide detectors which have never gone off.

Problem: home inspector said I have to remove the cover plate and seal the thimble to prevent carbon monoxide leaks.

I reached out to the chimney guy that I originally worked with and he said that he knows of no building code regulations that say how to seal the thimble so the thimble plate w silicone caulk should be fine or to just brick/mortar the hole (which I don't want to do).

Question: can I use a high temp silicone caulk around the thimble cover plate so it's not permanent like brick/mortar but still air tight. Is there other methods of sealing a thimble so carbon monoxide doesn't escape but aren't permanent?


texts: How can I connect a T568 cable to a 4p4c jack?

texts:
Currently living in Netherlands, the phone cable of my apartment is a T568 cable which I cannot confirm is A or B yet (will be checked later this evening). However, my ADSL modem only has a handset jack. So how can I wire the cable to the telephone jack provided in the modem package in order to make the modem work?

Since I only use ADSL and no landline at my apartment, it is not necessary to consider how to split the telephone line.


texts:
Does anyone have the ductless split AC systems offered by Mitsubishi, etc.?  Is installing them a DIY job?  Can you share your comments about them, in general?

Edit: Inspired by DA01 comment, I'd like to add:

From what I see in NE US, they don't seem that popular.  Few installers deal with them and all the quotes were higher than conventional systems.  Why would this be?

Also if they are so popular why doesn't anyone comment on them here?


texts: Combining a Multiwire Branch Circuit on a single breaker

texts: I have a Multiwire Branch Circuit connected to two 15A Breakers (Handle tied together). Each circuit only has 2 duplex receptacles on it that are seldomly  used. Is it acceptable to combine both the HOTs together and pigtail to only 1 of the 15A breakers? I would than remove the Handle Tie and use the renamed 15A Breaker for a new circuit.


texts: Oak doors stripped of paint - need to fill holes underneath before revarnishing/oiling

texts:
We've recently sent our doors for stripping of many years of gloss paint and lead based varnish. The oak doors came back looking largely fantastic. As the doors are very old, understandably they have lots of old screw holes on their fascia which have been filled with some nasty white filler of unknown age. I've dug the filler out and now have good looking oak doors with small holes around the edges due to previous fittings. I have two questions:

What to fill the holes with so that I can varnish or oil to bring out the best in the wood and colour match?
If I pack the holes with e.g. matchsticks can I sand over the holes with wet PVA to create colour matched "dust" and expect to be able to varnish over this successfully?

We've stripped doors before and know that we need to wash down and leave to dry for several weeks and are being patient for now.


texts: Light switch won't turn on unless switch in adjacent room turned on

texts: Bedroom light switch won't turn on light unless the light switch in the bathroom (adjacent to bedroom) is turned on first. All other outlets work independently except light switch. It was like this when I moved in. How do I make the bedroom light switch work independently from bathroom switch? Wrong type of switch/wrong wiring?? Help. Thanks.


texts: Using Forstner bits instead of hole saws

texts:
I have been having problems using hole saws when removing the plug of material after use.  Looking at What is the right way to clear the drilled plug out of a hole saw? it is still awkward and I have considered spending the extra on buying Forstner bits as an alternative.

But then I am told they are not for drilling all the way through.  Is it okay (or even safe or wise) to use Forstner bits in this way.


texts: Simple light switch wiring isn’t working

texts: I have power coming into box from black and white wires.  When wiring black to light switch and white to white leading to fixture, the breaker goes every time.  When wiring the two whites together with power on, there are sparks. What am I doing wrong?


texts:
I have a switch in my kitchen that switches on/off a socket underneath the cupboards for a washing machine. I have now moved the washing machine and would like to make the switch a socket so I can plug something in on top of the worktop.
Is this a simple job, Can I just wire up a socket into the existing back wires of the switch or is there more too it than that?


texts: What are the legal considerations of installing a new light in my own house in the UK?

texts:
I don't have any electrical qualifications, but have rewired plugs, plug sockets and switches and seen someone qualified wire in a new light and understand the principles and safety precautions.

Are there any legal considerations to uninstall a florescent strip and install a pendant lamp in my loft myself, or do I need to hire someone qualified?


texts: My freezer stopped freezing.  There was ice on the evaporator coil.  I cleared that.  All fans and compressor are running.  I replaced the relay and capacitor.  The refrigerator is cold to the touch from the outside and cool on the inside. what should I do next?


texts: Water backs up in adjacent sink only when garbage disposal is used

texts: I have adjacent sink basins in the kitchen with the garbage disposal on the right hand side.  Individually, both basins drain quickly when the garbage disposal is not used, even when filled with water.  However, when using the right side basin with the disposal going, it drains as quickly, but water will almost immediately backup into the left side basin until it reaches the same level as the diminishing water level in the disposal basin.  Both drains then subsequently drain leaving food debris in the left basin.  Is this a case of there being a partial clog some distance down the drain pipe?  It may be implied that the volume capacity of the drain pipe is easily sufficient for water draining from a full sink without the "push" of a garbage disposal, but once the "push" factor is added with the garbage disposal going, the flow into the drainage pipe is increased sufficiently that now the capacity of the drain pipe (with a partial clog far down it) may not be enough to handle it.  The added water in the drain pipe has no place to go but into the adjacent sink basin. Is this a correct interpretation of the problem or is there something more obvious going on?


texts: Any reason not to put a structured wiring enclosure directly next to the house main breaker box?

texts:
I'm adding CAT6 networking to my house for higher speeds plus some POE cameras.  I want to put the cable modem, switch and camera DVR in a metal structured wiring enclosure.  The best place is the the gap between the studs next to the main breaker box so the enclosure and breaker box would share a stud.  I've checked and there's no physical reason I couldn't install the enclosure there.
Are there any reasons not to put electronic/networking devices directly next to (separated by a stud) the main breaker box?  Interference?  Code?


texts: How to get proper support for a closet system from a firewall?

texts:
I am installing a closet system which is supported from a single track. The wall I am attaching this track to isn't a standard wall but a firewall between my townhouse and the next.

The cinderblock has a 2" thick stud between it and the drywall.

Should I go through the studs and into the cinderblock?

Is 2" deep enough to support the closet system?

The exact closet system I am installing is:

(source: homedepot.com)

Martha Stewart Deluxe Starter

Product:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Martha-Stewart-Living-4-ft-8-ft-Classic-White-Deluxe-Starter-Closet-Kit-W1/202060751#.Um-4mvlUYz4

Instructions:

http://www.marthastewartclosets.com/instructions/680000-INS.pdf


texts: Washing machine drain suddenly backflows

texts:
Since very recently, our washing machine's drain pipe started overflowing. It has worked fine for the last couple of years but for some reason it doesn't anymore. When the washer dumps only one load of water the pipe instantly overflows onto the floor. We checked for clogs and cleaned it out but found nothing.

NB: When I say "we" I mean me and the other tenants, as we share a washing machine and dryer.

I'm not able to take pictures at the moment, so I drew a rough idea of how it's all connected. I added some numbers to indicate points of interest, I've explained them below the image. It's not quite to scale but I did pay attention to the relative positioning of elements (like how the trap is at the lowest point). There's also a tough plastic clamp attached to the washer's hose to keep it in place at the top of the pipe.

Unused pipe, what's this even for?
This is a plastic cap with a white plastic ring in it, but parts of this ring seems to have broken off (judging by the rough edges).
There seems to be a small leak here (droplets of water fall down).

The "neighbour" is my downstairs neighbour and he's the only one on the ground floor. Everyone's toilets and showers etc still drain fine, if it matters.

I'm not entirely sure what influences the ability to siphon properly, but I know air (both excess and absence of) is a big part of it. It seems like a simple fix so calling an expensive specialist is something we'd like to avoid.


texts: SDS, SDS MAX, SDS PLUS: which bits can I use?

texts: I recently purchased two Dewalt D25501K Hammer Drills.  I need bits.  In pest control doing termite treatments, we need to drill 1/2 inch holes through concrete slabs. In the past I have used drills that have had "spline" drives. These Dewalts don't, so I am uneducated on what bits I need.  I know I need 1/2 inch in diameter and at least 16 inches or so cutting depth, but I'm not sure if my new drills require a certain kind of SDS bit. I see SDS MAX, SDS PLUS and just SDS. Can you tell me what my drills can and will use so I know what to buy?


texts: Where to check for neighbors stealing power?

texts:
I recently bought a 900 sq ft house (84m²) and the electricity bill is insane, saying I'm using 4000 kWh per month. Winters are mild, the temperature floats to around 25°F (-5°C) at night, not much lower ever.
I'm examining all possible reasons; one potential is that a neighbor is stealing power. When I bought the house, there was zero landscaping, only bare dirt, so running a cable and kicking dirt over it would be easy, no need to repair any lawn.
I checked the area around the power meter and cannot find anything except cable TV and satellite TV cables. There is only one exterior outlet. Are there other potential places an electricity thief could plug in to steal power? Could they connect, for example, at a back-alley behind the house?


texts: I have more than 1 submeter off my main service do I need a (8ft 5/8"), grounding rod for each sub meter? They feed outdoor receptacles. Thanks for any help.


texts:
Background

I plan to purchase a new electric vehicle in the coming months (a Tesla Model 3).
My parking garage in my apartment building offers electric vehicle charging (unlimited charging for an extra $50 per month).

However, as I'd probably want to get them to install another wall adaptor near my spot (rather than move my spot to one that already has a charger) I thought I might suggest options that would be more fair. $50 per month seems steep with light use, while with a Tesla and heavy use, I could probably draw enough power to make their eyes water when the power bill arrives, so much that they would likely jack up the rates.  So my thinking is to negotiate an arrangement where I simply pay for my share of the electricity.

My ideal solution would be to find a system that could measure usage for particular vehicles charged at that charging station.  While I am out at work, they might charge another EV vehicle so if I just got them to put a meter on the wall adapter to pay my share of the electricity, I might end up paying for someone else's charging.

Question

Are there (consumer grade) charging systems (wall adapters) that will track usage?  The perfect one would be one that doesn't need a RFID card or code to activate, but just picks up the VIN number or whatever from the vehicle when it is plugged in.  The parking garage has WiFi so in theory there could be a charger that does this and uploads the statistics to the cloud so one could get a statement at the end of the month, when it is time to pay for the parking spot.


texts: C-wire help needed with Nest thermostat install

texts:
My air handler (see photo) connections are G,W,Y,R and COM. The a/c compressor (outside) is connected to air handler Y and COM. I have 5 wires out to the thermostat, G,W,Y,Rh with jumper to Rc, and an unused blue.
How can I connect to new Nest thermostat using the unused blue as c-wire.


texts: How deep is the frost line for footers in Michigan? I want to put in a small shed in the back yard. 200 square feet large.


texts: Best Practices for Metal Roof Directly on Existing Shingled Roof?

texts:
I'm preparing to re-roof my home. The current roof is shingled and I have recently repaired a few leaking spots. I've taken a look at a few options and I have a few concerns regarding code and longevity. This home is located in Northern Florida with a 1.7 to 12 roof pitch and a small 24" tall attic, the existing shingles have plywood decking underneath.

I do not want to spend extra, do unnecessary improvements or add additional load (weight) to the existing roof.

Can I place the new metal directly on the existing shingles? I have been told and seen it done and I am concerned if I should use a water/vapor barrier. I would like to NOT install furring strips and/or Styrofoam. I have concerns regarding the noise from rain and I am trying to understand/evaluate the costs respectively.


texts: Cheapest way to screw in drywall close to a big hole without patching the hole

texts:
I am replacing our thermostat. The new one has only two holes for mounting to the wall. There is a big round hole in the wall already. I can't position the new thermostat in a way that I can put a new screw in because its always too close to the existing hole. The holes for the new thermostat are vertical and even if I push/pull the thermostat to the left/right, the mounting hole spots are still too close to the edges of the big hole in the wall.
I know I can cut a big square from the drywall and patch it with new drywall but I am trying to avoid that.
Is there another way I could screw the new thermostat into the wall?


texts: Is my plan for mounting a child safety gate feasible?

texts:
As seen in picture below, this sliding kitchen door is not long enough in width. Red arrows indicate how much it falls short.

I am thinking of drilling four holes and mounting with screws instead. Red circles indicate where screws are to be drilled in.

Then I will raise it up to ensure it is not touching the floor therefore have enough space to allow sliding. Red arrows indicate where I will hold it up.

Is my approach feasible?


texts: I sure am glad for a site like this.....THANK You!!!  I am a DIY'r and can usually figure things out, but this has me scratching my head! I cannot fit the electrical wires from the wall into the new outlet! The back of the new outlet says to "press to release" (located on the back of outlet), but there is nothing to press! I understand how to do everything I just cannot figure out how to get the wires to fit in the outlet!!I'm sure I will be very embarrassed once someone tells me how to do it, but I'm willing to take the chance, I need my outlet!!!lol, Thank you for your help.


texts: Installing single-ended LED in a pre-existing T-8 fixture with only one connection per side

texts:
I have a set of new LED bulbs which want hot & neutral connection at just one end of each bulb.

The fixture in question however is wired differently than I expected.  It has just one wire per end.  The ballast diagram matches the fixture wiring:

Examining the bases they indeed have just one electrical connection per side.
What can be done to bypass the ballast in this situation?  Trashing the entire fixture is an option (and may be less trouble than messing with finding compatible bases).  No new bases were included with the lamps, nor would generic bases fit due to shape of the fixture.


texts: Should I use pilot holes to reduce chances of splitting the post?

texts: The height of 3 of 6 of the 4x4 posts I need to make on a deck are only 3.5" high. These would be on top of concrete piers and then (2) 2x8 beams on top of that and then joists on the beams.  Its just barely enough room to fit the hardware for attaching the posts and I'm wondering if I have to worry about splitting the wood in the short posts. Would it be acceptable to drill small pilot holes in the post for the nails to attach hardware to reduce the chance of splitting. Or perhaps I should use pilot holes and screws?


texts: Basement rough-in. Converting plumbing from a tub to a fiberglass shower

texts: the basement rough-in was completed with a shower/tub rough-in.  I want to convert it to a shower.  I bought an alcove left drain fiberglass tub. The shower does have a p-trap and everything should be vented already. To install the shower drain, do I just need to cut the tub rough-in below the contract and add two 45 street elbows to where the permanent shower drain will be?


texts: Floor-to-ceiling bookshelf before or after carpet?

texts:
Building a built-in floor-to-ceiling bookshelf in a room in the basement (~7'10" tall).  I've read a lot of differing opinions on whether to build the bookshelf first or put the carpet in first. Anyone have any convincing arguments for one or the other?
I may be building the shelving to be on 3 walls, and not just the one. Does that make a difference?


texts: Corners Pieces of Tub Surround bowed out

texts:
Just trying to glue up my tub surround this weekend. I have ran into a snaggle that I cannot think or find an answer to. The problem is when I put my corner piece on ( 5 piece surround), the middle side of the corner bows out. So if I push the top into the wall, and the bottom into the tub corner, the middle bows out.

It seems that the bottom goes over the lip of the tub (pulling the corner away from the wall) and the top of the wall seems to lean inwards towards the tub. Which leaves me with a middle section that I cannot see sticking to the wall if I glue it where you see it. Obviously I don't want a huge caulking line overtop of the seam inside the tub.

I am not sure if the fact that the tub corner is also quite far from our wall contributes as well.

Thats me pointing to the bottom of the tub where the bow out seems to be happening above. Anybody have any advice? Duct tape thick on the inside?? I am at a loss trying to figure something! Thanks for reading.


texts: Should I agree to have more insulation added to my attic?

texts:
I have a 6 year old home with about 12 inches (R-30) of blown-in insulation in the attic. Recently door-to-door sales representatives for an insulation company offered a free inspection and quote to add additional insulation. The pitch was that the R-value at the time of construction was sufficient, but that codes have been revised and more insulation is better.

I was provided with options for adding 8 or 12 more inches to attain R-49 or R-60 respectively.

Sure, insulation materials improve with technology, but should I agree to have additional insulation put in? Will adding more somehow pay for itself? Is there such a thing as too much?

I live in a desert climate with temperatures ranging from -20°C (-5°F) in winter to 32°C (90°F) in summer.


texts:
this could just me being fussy but I have a 3 way switch for outside light, kitchen and hall and then a second switch for hall and loft. Since I've moved in the hall way switches are always opposite, so 3 way will be on and the 2 way will be off. Is there any way that I can fix it so if the light is off, both switches are off for example.

Sorry for being fussy!
Pug


texts: Kitchen / Bathroom sink are very "splashy" - How can I change this rectangular aerator?

texts:
I just moved into a new flat and I have a problem with the kitchen and bathroom faucets.

They are extremely splashy (if opened suddenly the water will spill out of the sink!) and whenever I clean the dishes, the kitchen easily becomes a watery mess. The bathroom faucet does not even have an aerator!

I'm no hydraulic expert so I took pictures of both the faucets.

Bathroom (nozzle size: approx. 32mm x 5mm):

Kitchen (nozzle size: approx. 30mm x 8mm):

Now, a few questions:

Do you think I could solve the problem by just adding / replacing the aerators? If so, I have took a look on the internet but I have no idea of what kind and size of aerator I should buy since I did not find any "perfect" match. The "unregular" rectangular shape does not help either.
How can I replace these aerators? Should I pull them? I haven't found anything to unscrew.

I hope I explained my problem in enough depth.

Thank you very much!


texts: Well water pressure drops after very little use time

texts:
Purchased my home 8 months ago and one of the first things I did was replace the pressure tank, switch, and water softener, and added a new filtration system. Everything was running fine, but overall pressure was a bit low, so I adjusted the pressure switch, and all was good. About a month ago, I accidentally broke part of my water line, so I replaced the broken piece, and all was good, for about a week. At that point, pressure would fall off in the house rapidly. Just using a faucet would give about 10 seconds of full pressure, and then quickly drop to barely a trickle. Flushing a toilet would kill pressure at all faucets for minutes.

To diagnose the problem I would turn on a faucet and then go to the pressure tank. The pressure gauge was at 60, and would slowly lower, like normal, but the water was still a trickle at the faucet. So, I replaced the pressure switch. Drained the tank, cut power, checked that the pressure in the tank was 38, attached the new switch, turned it all on, and it filled without issue. I checked the faucets, and everything worked fine. Ran the shower and flushed the toilet, and there was negligible pressure drop in the shower. This lasted for about 24 hours before the same problem came back.

To make sure the issue wasn't my filtration system I ran a new line directly from the outlet of the pressure tank into my cold water lines, bypassing the filters. Same issue as before, little to no pressure after a few seconds of use. So I turned the power off, drained the lines and pressure tank, rechecked the pressure in the tank, turned it all back on, and it again it worked properly for about 24 hours before returning to its old ways.

This behavior has me confused, and I am now unsure of what to try next, or check next, or what to look in to. Any help would be appreciated.

Update: I took apart the my system from the check valve to the spin down filter, flushed all of that out, then put it all back together again. I got the same 24 hours of normal use, and now it has gone back to its old ways, but, the pressure doesn't drop as much, and it recovers more quickly from a toilet flush than it did before.

And for reference, the initial break in the line happened between the pressure tank and spin down filter.


texts:
We have a front wall covered by ivy. We do like it very much, but keep getting remarks that ivy eventually destroys your wall.
My usual response is that you often see ivy on century-old buildings and those seem to have survived all right.

So my question is if there really is potential danger in ivy growing on your (brick) walls and should I remove them, or is it just an urban legend and should we enjoy the beauty of it?

 (source: By Ikar.us (Karlsruhe:Alter Friedhof) [CC-BY-2.0-de (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/de/deed.en)], via Wikimedia Commons)


texts: Why is there no neutral in a switch box?

texts:
I'm a bit confused about the wiring in a light switch that I changed. I am accustomed to seeing black (hot), white (neutral) and green/bare (ground).

This box has TWO black, a red, and a green. No white! So, I connected the two black together in a wire nut and connected the hot (black) wire on the switch to wire nut. Then I ran the red to the bottom screw. And the green to ground.

It works, but where is the neutral?


texts: Why isn't my Genie keypad communicating with my Genie garage door opener?

texts:
I've followed the steps outlined on the keypad.

press 3,5,7 prog

enter keycode between 3-8 digits, hit prog

press the learn button on the garage door opener

while the learn button light is blinking, enter the code and press the open button.

My issue is at this step.  The learn button light starts blinking, but when I enter the code, it doesn't turn from blinking to constantly on.  It seems the keypad is not communicating with the opener.  Any thoughts?

EDIT:

I know that the garage door will open and that it can receive wireless communication because I have a working wireless opener. It is also wired to an opener within the garage that can turn on the lights and open/close it.


texts: How to replace a compression valve behind sink?

texts:
Would prefer to not cut through the copper but the stem seems to either be bent or rusted enough to where it won’t slip off with a good amount of effort. Any suggestions?

Thanks!


texts: Can Invisible Dog Fence Wire be run in same Conduit with Cat6 for POE Cameras without Interference?

texts:
I am pulling 300' runs of Cat5 or Cat6 for POE security cameras.  In the same ditch will be a 2" conduit with fiber runs for high-speed internet service.  My client wants to add an invisible dog fence to the conduits.
It seems problematic to me.  Don't dog fences emit a fairly strong magnetic field?  And would that interfere with the POE power and signal transmission to the cameras (and possibly other sensors)?


texts: Should the sight glass of a steam boiler always be within the recommended range? Or only when firing?

texts:
We just had a new steam boiler installed and it is working great; all radiators are hot when the heat turns on etc.

One thing I noticed though is that the site glass for the water level reads too high when the boiler is off:

notice the water level is above even being visible in the sight glass.

When running the water level is within the recommended range:

I've tried draining the boiler when it is off to bring the water level down, but when the boiler fires up, the water level goes lower, hovering around the lowest acceptable level.  This triggers the auto-feeder, and I end up back where I started.

So the question is, is this ok?  Or should I try to tweak the auto-feeder?

FWIW, it is a Utica pg-150 which seems to have plenty of capacity for our 1600 sqft home, and is of a similar capacity to the one another heating and cooling company quoted.


texts: When should I round over the edges leading to a miter joint?

texts:
I'm going to be joining 2 1x6" pieces of wood at a simple miter joint.

However, I want the top edges to be rounded over. I'm planning to use my router and a round over bit to soften the edges, the only problem is I'm not sure if I should...

Route the pieces, cut the miter, then assemble.
Cut the miter, route the pieces, then assemble.
Cut the miter, assemble, then route the piece.

If I was only rounding over the outside edge of the piece, I'd probably route it after assembling it. Since I want to round over both top edges, I'm concerned the inside corner will not come out right if I assemble the piece before routing.


texts: What is the best way to move this electrical box a few inches?

texts:
I need to move an electrical box up about five inches from where it is to mount a light fixture. The wall is drywall covered in plaster. The original box was nailed to a stud. Originally I was going to patch the old location with drywall and install a new plastic electrical box in the correct location. What I'm running into is the old wiring, which isn't Romex but rather cloth wire run via flexible conduit screwed into the old junction box. It's about one inch too short to make the move.

I can get the original conduit installed into a new "old work" metal box, but it won't stretch to the new location. I understand there are couplers to extend the length of the conduit, but the length I need to extend it by is so short I feel it would make fitting it difficult. My initial thought is to simply rerun the wire from the outlet to the switch with Romex so I can clamp it into a new box and not worry about the conduit, but I'm no expert at this and don't know if there's an easier way.

Thanks for any advice!

EDIT: @ThreePhaseEel pointed out that this may actually be BX wire, not simple flex conduit, which I imagine changes things up.


texts: Grounding fault - stray voltage on bath faucet

texts:
2 months ago I moved into a house from 1959 (1 220V phase and 1 neutral coming in). I noticed on the 2nd floor bathroom that there was stray voltage on the faucet (-+ 30V).
No socket outlets in the house have a ground pin. When I connect a power bar (which has internal grounding), I notice a stray voltage on its sockets too.

I installed an earthing rod (260cm / 8,5feet in the ground). I tested it while connecting a light bulb (40W) between a hot wire and the ground, and it bright up. Next I connected the earth cable to the breaker panels earth bar. There were already 2 ground cables from somewhere in the house connected to this bar, and I did not remove them.

I figured this would solve the problem of my faucet, but it didn't. Whenever I would stand on the bathroom floor and touch the faucet I could feel the stray voltage.

I then connected a new ground cable from the breaker panel's earth bar to the faucet. Using a volt meter I got these 3 readouts:

1) I'm standing on the bathroom floor, and hold a Volt Meter's pin1 in my left hand, while I hold pin2 against the faucet

2) Same situation, only this time I connected the new ground cable to the faucet

3) This time I hold pin2 directly against the ground cable.

I have no idea what's going on. How can my ground cable have a voltage of 30V, when I'm measuring between the bathroom floor and the ground cable (20m / 65feet) to the earth rod?

Update 7 months later:
This bathroom has been fully renovated now. I have a suspicion about what was going on initially.
Under my feet, inside the flooring there was a metal tube which held insulated electricity wires. At the endpoint of that metal tube was a light switch 1 floor underneath the bathroom, and I think it probably was a faulty device leaking current (a bad light switch can act as a sort of capacitor I think). (= fault 1)
The metal tube must have been connected in some way to the light switch. (= fault 2)
By standing directly above this metal tube I put myself at 30V potential,  and while touching the bath faucet (which I believe is a natural ground in any house) I felt this.


texts:
Re-wiring the garage and running into an issue with a switched outlet. The outlet is in the middle of the run (after a GFCI and before a single ceiling outlet for the door opener). I've split the receptacle to only have the top outlet switched and all of the hot outlets are working as expected.
Unfortunately the switched outlet trips the breaker each time it's switched on.
The wires coming into this box are:
2 wire from GFCI (from load)
2 wire from switch (white taped as 'hot')
2 wire from next outlet

Connections as follows:
- Ground from outlet to raised ground screw
- Black from GFCI, Black to next outlet, Switch loop (white from switch), and pigtail are nutted and connected to bottom brass screw
- Black from Switch connected to top brass screw
- White from GFCI, White to next outlet, and pigtail are nutted and connected to bottom silver screw

Any suggestions are welcome.


texts: House receptacle/s with 120 vac but nothing works in them

texts: I was troubleshooting a home circuit that appears to have 4 double receptacles and one light on it.  One of the receptacles works fine as does the light.  The other three show 120 vac hot to neutral and hot to ground.  Neutral to ground shows 0 ohms.  I'm told the three problem receptacles worked for years and then just stopped.  I plugged an answereing machine with an led call count indicator into one of the bad receptacles.  It would not fully light up but it was barely illuminating in a pulsing fashion at I would guess 2 or 3 cycles/second.  I plugged a cell phone charger into it.  It would pulse charging/ not charging at about the same rate.  The multimeter showed a solid 120 vac. I tried an incandescent light, but it would not illuminate.  I did not check the neutral connection at the load center since one receptacle and the light worked fine. I was told there are no GFI's in this circuit despite one receptacle near the kitchen sink (but it is an old house). Any ideas what is causing this?


texts: 15 Amp GFI breaker trips in main Breaker panel

texts: I have one 15 amp GFI breaker in my main panel. We have two patio outlets, the garbage disposal and one outlet in each of the two bathrooms all wired common. Whenever we have company and women are using hair dryers at the same in each bathroom the breaker trips. Would it be OK to replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp so it doesn't trip anymore when they are drying their hair?


texts:
I just installed a new Mr. Cool system a few weeks ago.  Works great, its quiet and works as expected.

I haven't finished the lineset covers since the routing is a bit wonky so I was able to see the liquid line shaking while I was outside with the dogs.

Anything to be worried about?

Edit: Link to the specific unit
https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-Advantage-3rd-Gen-18-000-BTU-1-5-Ton-Ductless-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-and-Heat-Pump-230V-60Hz-A-18-HP-230B/308810697

Video https://youtu.be/1pYjNYvFjo8


texts: How do I remove a wiffle ball from a pool vacuum pipe?

texts:
A wiffle ball with a wad of string attached to it is stuck in the skimmer vacuum pipe of the pool at my Dad's place...

It is not completely clogged, but flow is restricted.  At a guess, the ball traveled about 15' underground (from the skimmer drain inlet towards the pump/furnace) before stopping.

We're assuming the ball is stuck at a joint coupling two different sized pipes together.  The above-ground pipes near the pump are galvanized metal, but the pipe at the skimmer drain side is PVC.

Things we've tried:

The pool company folks weren't able to help.
It's not possible to get a drain auger head through due to a couple of right-angles
An air compressor didn't help
Reversing the pump also didn't have any effect

Any suggestions on what else we can try?


texts: Good looking, easy to install alternatives to drywall

texts:
I'm remodeling my garage and am leaning away from using drywall for wall panels for a few reasons:

Dust
Difficult to cut and install
Too much work ... taping, mudding, sanding, etc
Would like something more rigid to hang pictures and shelves on

What other options do I have?

I want something that's easy to install, paintable, looks good, and doesn't require a lot of work to hide the seams between panels.


texts: How can I be sure my water softener is working?

texts:
I recently purchased a 12 year old home in Central Indiana that came with a water softener (waterboss model). The owners claimed it to be working during the closing. When we moved into the house, we filled the softener with salt and allowed the softener to regenerate. Then we tested the water from several faucets and sinks using a standard water softener test strip and it shows that the water is hard (between 180-250 ppm). However, at the same time the water feels quite slippery, esp. after washing with soap and the dishwasher absolutely leaves no scales.

Also I used the common test suggested in the web : taking a bottle, filling it halfway with water, adding dishwasher liquid and shaking to check for foam. That seems to work pretty well too, the mixture foams up quickly and stays like that.

Should I replace my water softener? Any other tests to check? Just want to ensure that it is not working before buying a new one.

Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.


texts: We are in the process is renovating our kitchen. One of the things we are doing is installing a more modern range hood instead of the older under cabinet hood. The new hood requires us to create a new vent hole and so our problem is "how do we close and permanently seal the old vent hole on the outside which was much lower?" Especially on the outside - can I cover it with wood and then siding or are kits made for this task?


texts: No signal when cabling a female wall plate

texts:
I'm cabling a new part of my home and I tried to create 2 ports on my wall. To summarize my installation (schema at the end), I have my internet access downstair. I installed a netgear switch upstairs to connect my equipements there. Then from this switch I connected 2 cables which are running inside the wall to my house other part. Both cables are arriving at the same place to create 2 ethernet port.

If I connect to my cable to this kind of connector shown on the image, and then I'm connecting my computer to the female port, my computer has no connection, and the ethernet port is not event flashing.

Note: When cabling this connector I invert green and orange to correspond to the other end of my cable which is using T568A. However I did try T568B to be sure it wasn't the problem.

However If I use a male connector instead of the female one, and I plug it directly in my computer it works. I'm currently writing from the wifi provided by a router connected to this male connector.

I even tried to reproduce the wall cable with another cable running from my computer, to a female ethernet port as shown, itself connected to a switch, connected to the internet access modem. And it also worked fine. I did it to be certain I was clipping the right ethernet wire into the right socket.

So I have no clue at the moment why it is not working. I connected my cable to the female port several time this morning being carefull about how I connect it.

Here is a schema of what I tried if it can help. I ordered an ethernet tester to be even more certain I didn't screw up while connecting something.

Schema notes :

A and B at the beginning of the cable are for the connection used (T568A/B)
The cable number indicates which cable i used again
The switch used in all 3 tests is the same

Edit to show how I wired a jack to test if I'm wiring it correctly :

The solution :
The tester I ordered finally arrived, and it showed me my mistake. The plug on my cable 2 on my schema was in the wrong order (8->1 instead of 1->8). And instead of starting fresh I reproduced my error each time I created a new plug


texts: Replacing 3-way switches with C by GE smart switches

texts: I’m replacing 2 switches in a 4-gang switchbox with C by GE paddle switches. I’m able to confidently identity all of the wires in the box. The first and last switches are 3-way switches; the second and third single pole. I’m only replacing the latter. The first 3 switches share a line wire, the wire being looped around the first 2 and plugged in the third. There are 4 neutral wires capped together and 4 ground wires capped together. One of each came with the line wire, and the other three of each went with the load wires. In starting to replace the third switch, I initially wired the new switch with the neutral and ground wire that went with the load wire. Nothing happened, the switch didn’t power on. Before giving up, I realized I probably used the wrong neutral and ground wires. So I used the ones that came with the line wire. The switch powered on, but the lights didn’t come on, and also I noticed the lights for the first switch didn’t come on (I don’t remember checking the second switch, but I’m guessing it wasn’t working either). So......I guess my question is do I need to add wires (my research is telling me this called a pigtail??) so that each switch, old and new, has their own wires? I feel like I need to do that for the line wire and for the ground and neutral wires going into the new switches.


texts: How to fix a retaining wall that is difficult to access behind the house?

texts:
My retaining wall needs to be fixed/rebuilt since it's leaning, but I can't get any machines back there because house doesn't have much side or rear setback(maybe 5ft on each side) and behind the house is steep hill and above that another house.

Retaining wall is about 8ft tall, any suggestions on how to easiest and quickest fix this wall?


texts: Correct circuit breakers for 4-wire connected Maytag dryer?

texts:
The panel in the house we just bought has the 30-amp dryer is connected by 4 wires (#10) to the panel where the black wire is on a 30-amp circuit breaker and the red wire is on another 30-amp circuit breaker.  Is that correct?  To me that totals 60 amps of current acceptable over the wire.

Thank you.


texts:
Got me a wefe thermostat. Old thermostat used 4 wires but the blue C was stuffed in the wall. I have read many forums and nobodys setup really matches mine.

This what I see at the furnace and what I think the functions are. I see the spot for C but it has a red and yellow wire connected to it. I figured T would be the common but when I hooked the blue wire to this I got power to my new thermostat and could make the fan come on but the A/C would not turn on. Guess my only question being is where to put the darn C wire. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Here is the old tstat and setup in the furnace. I cannot see a model anywhere on it. Just says climatrol. It is an older one tho with a pilot I gotta light manually.

Here is the wifi stat setup.

I turned it back on and afew minutes later while uploading this pic it the system came on!!! Musta took 3 to 5 minutes but its working! Will make sure it does what it is suppose to do but thank you for advice on waiting and the other help you provided. I really appreciate it!!!


texts: Repair paperless drywall or tear out and install new?

texts: I removed a large wallpaper mural from drywall in a house we purchased. The previous owner didn't put a release compound or protective sealer on before gluing the wallpaper on. When I pulled it off, it took almost all the white compound coating on the drywall with it. Easily 90% of the drywall is exposed brown paper. I know I can't paint this until it is either sealed or I put a skim coat of joint compound on it first. My question is is it worth it to reapply joint compound to 90% of a 12 x 8 wall or should I just tear out the drywall and install new stuff?


texts: Tankless Electric water heater Electrical interference

texts:
I recently installed a Rheem Retex-18 tankless electric water heater. When I turn the heater on I experience many electrical issues around the house:

Sense home energy monitor freaks out and turns off
Smart thermostat exhibits a loud buzzing
Breaker panel buzzes loudly.

More information:
The cable run is about 40 ft, and uses two 8AWG cables and 2 40A dual pole breakers. The heater operates normally, and I even notice that there is very little flickering from lights when the heater is on. I measure a <2VAC drop when the heater is under load. The breakers do not get hot. I checked the ground connection and it appears to be fine. The house has a 200A service, and I live in an area where most houses have electric baseboard heating, so I expect that the service is sized appropriately. Walking the street it seems like every pole pig is serving 3 -4 houses.  I tested this both when the temperature outside is hot, and when it is cold, so my local load does not seem to be an issue. I checked to make sure that the cables are not reversed on the heater and they are not. Both elements are receiving each phase in the same order. I tried turning everything in my house off, and just turning the heater on and still experienced the same issue, even with a flow rate low enough to only pull 10 KW. The connections to the breaker, and the breaker to the panel seem to be sound. Panel type is a Eaton CH.
Any idea what is causing this?


texts: Looking for bearing part for GE Washer Dryer Combo WSM2700HBWWW

texts:
I have a GE Washer Dryer Combo WSM2700HBWWW, and during washers' last stage of the spinning cycle, it makes a grinding sound, so I suspect something wrong with the bearing.
So I found parts are available at https://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-ge-wsm2700hbwww.html, which part should I buy?


texts:
My lights and outlets went out in the half bath of my home and also the two recessed lights in my hall just outside the half bath.

I believe there are two feeds, one to the hall lights and one to the half bath light and outlets all on the same circuit. I had a plug tester read an open neutral though it was not positively an open neutral as the first yellow light lit but very dimly.

I checked all the outlets and switches for loose wires, etc., but found nothing.

I pulled all the outlets and switches so I had bare wires everywhere. With a multimeter I checked all the hots by touching the blacks and grounds they all read 120V. But when I check any of the neutrals with the meter - one on hot, one on neutral - they drop to nearly nothing ( like .2volts ) so I assumed the open neutral was the problem.

I went to the breaker box and pulled the neutral from the bar and tested the black coming out of the breaker by touching one probe to the black and then to the bar and I read 120. So I assume the breaker itself is OK.

But when I test it with one probe on the black and the other to the now free neutral, I get nothing. So again open neutral somewhere in the circuit, right? I can't seem to find the open neutral anywhere and it's driving me crazy. :(

Am I missing something? Maybe a junction box somewhere?


texts: ELECTRICIAN BORED 4" HOLE through top & bottom chords in attic -- how to fix?

texts: I'm extremely concerned; hopefully unnecessarily so. We recently upgraded our electrical panel and I just noticed (about a month and a half later) that the electrician bored a 3.5" hole through what I think is the top chord and TWO 3.5" holes through what I think is the bottom chord.  There's nothing above it but the roof and it's not inhabitable space, but I'm still concerned that it might collapse over time, since there's nothing left of what (I think) is the bottom chord for approx 8" -- there was a previous 1" hole for electrical that they decided to bore next to... twice.  Is this going to be a problem over time, or is it okay because, presumably, this beam is supported by several studs along its length underneath? If we need to, how should we fix it?  We do not have the money right now to consult an engineer or tear open the outer wall/ceiling beneath the beam, etc.  The photos are of the top and bottom holes he drilled, which are 8" to the right of the dead center of our rear wall (where the attic peaks at the middle.)


texts: Our central air furnace/cooler (Lennox Elite CH33-42B-2F) takes 4" filters. They can work out quite expensive, so my question is, will the system work just as well if I change to standard 1" filters, or is there something else in the equation that I'm not considering? (fitment isn't an issue - I'd use a 3" blanking frame)


texts: DIY table saw reusing components from other table saws

texts: I would like to know what are the major obstacles if I try to build a new table saw. My major problem today is that my DeWalt 745 has an aluminium top. I was wondering if I stand any chance to move the motor to a cast iron top that from another table saw (I just saw one for sale on ebay from a Rigid 4512)


texts:
I'm new here

I'm redoing my 2nd floor Bathroom and this is my first major project. when the plumber redid the plumbing in the wall (coming from 3rd floor and joining waste from 2nd floor bath and down to drain) he put the pipe sticking out so that I cant put on the drywall.

I only removed the old tiles on the lower half of the wall and Don't want to remove the lath and plaster.

I don't want to bring the plumber back and I don't want to add another layer to the entire wall. What can I do?

There is a door immediately to the left of the area shown. (you can see the casing on the bottom of the second picture)

I'm only tiling the bottom part so my only thought is that perhaps the tile can make the difference in depth not noticeable. but I'm not sure how that would work against the door.

I'm new to this so any advise would be appreciated. Thanks


texts: What is the proper way to frame in a room?

texts:
I'm looking to frame in this room (photo 2) to utilize the space for a 1st floor bathroom / 1st floor laundry room / storage.

I think I have the process down having seen my uncles and brothers houses being built from the ground up. On the 2 interior walls, use 2x8's around the perimeter; the 2 exterior walls, build a 2x4 wall from the concrete slab to the bottom of the 2x8 height of the interior wall. Floor joist across the span, 3/4 plywood over and build the remaining 2x4 wall to the ceiling (all of this after the demo of course)

The brick pillars you see in photo 2 are structural, so I won't be touching those. Photo 4 - the bathroom would be to the right of it and the laundry space to the left. trying to leave the sky light in place.

My problem comes in with the concrete steps in photo 1. I don't want to have to take them out as to not disturb the foundation. I think I can frame around them. If my measurements are correct, I think i can simply fill in the void of the top step (just outside the door) to equal the floor in the house inside the door (which has already been refinished with 18 inch porcelain tile)

I will loose the big interior window (connected to the dining room) but will remove the door and make that the entrance into the room. Photo 2, eventually the window on the right edge of the photo will be taken out and converted into a french door or sliding door to access a new patio (some day)

Is that a suitable plan?

-Mario

Photo 1

photo 1 http://jandmcreative.com/room/photo1.JPG

Photo 2

photo 2 http://jandmcreative.com/room/photo2.JPG

Photo 3

photo 3 http://jandmcreative.com/room/photo3.JPG

Photo 4

photo 4 http://jandmcreative.com/room/photo4.JPG


texts: How do i waterproof the joists under my bathroom floor?

texts:
How do I waterproof the joists under my bathroom floor?

I recently decided to replace the floor tiles in my bathroom and found that there had been a leak under the shower.  This has meant that the bathroom T&G chip boards have rotted away because of water damage and need to be replaced.

I have also noticed that the floor joists have a little bit of wet rot because of the leak.  This has been addressed by using Ronseal Wet Rot wood hardener and filler on the joists.

I want to know if i should and how i should protect the joists against future leaks?  The 2 options that i have seen after doing a little research are:

Cover top of joist with flashing tape such as Bostik flashband
Paint top of joist with black bitumen

Should i do any of these or would this introduce further problems? Do i have any other options?


texts: Any ideas for how to use solar to offset electricity in an apartment?

texts: I have 2 solar panels and a deck that is east and south facing, so it gets plenty of sun. I've been trying to see if there's a way to use those to help offset electricity in an apartment. Any ideas for this?


texts: Kitchen lit with exclusively PAR20 spot lights, how can I reduce shadows?

texts:
At some point somebody installed 6 can lights that accept PAR20 bulbs in my kitchen.

It appears that PAR20 bulbs are for spot lighting, which means focused lighting, which means shadows everywhere. Shadows are not what you want when you're chopping up food, it's really hard to see in there.

The widest beam angle I can find on these bulbs is 50 degrees. I don't know if I can even go wider because of the housings.

I tried to fit a PAR30 bulb in there but it wouldn't fit. I could get it to fit if I removed the trim, but then it was impossible to re-attach the trim.

What are my options?


texts: Impact of acidic water on house plumbing

texts:
My wife and I are considering purchasing a house.  The house was built in 1991 by the present owner.  The water comes from a well on the property.

As part of the inspection process, we had the kitchen tap analyzed for contamination.  The water used for the test was the first draw from the cold water after 8 hours of non-use (basically first thing in the morning).

The test (SM 3113B) showed 0.018 mg/l of lead, with a pH of 5.0.

I know nearly nothing about plumbing.  My reading suggests that most likely cause for the failed test is that the acidic water is dissolving the lead in the plumbing.  The owner wants to have a qualified plumber install a pH neutralizer and then flush the system and retest.

My questions:

1) Since this house was built after the Safe Drinking Water acts of 1986, what sources of lead exist in the plumbing of the house?  In other words, where was the acidic water attacking to cause the lead in the water? Brass fittings?

2) We believe the acidic water has flowed through the system for years.
Given that, even after the water is neutralized and the system is flushed, do we have to worry about particles of lead coming free (like rust in a corroded pipe)?

3) Again, given that the acidic water has flowed through the system for years, do we have to worry that any of the components have been sufficiently compromised that they have to be replaced or are likely to have an abnormally short life-span?

Update:

I am guessing that the original source of the problem is the acidic water.  My questions are primarily about whether the acidic water has done lasting harm even if the water's pH is now adjusted back to a more neutral level.


texts: What kind of underlayment material is this?

texts:
This was found under two layers of sheet vinyl flooring in a late 1940s house. Subfloor is fir and there appears to be a black tar-like mastic between it and the wood. The green underlayment feels sort of like construction paper that kids cut shapes out of.

I'm going to install a new floor and want to know what it is that I'm sitting on top of.

UPDATE

In response to the comments below, yes, I am aware of asbestos concerns. And no, this is not the original linoleum. It is a paper like substance that is clearly being used as an underlayment.