texts: Do I need to replace the garage door opener or just the remotes to upgrade to rolling code technology?

texts: I have an old Craftsman Garage door system from the mid 80s.  It still works great and for my cars, we have moved to the in car remote openers. We also have a wall remote code to access the garage door. One of our older cars still has the original opener which I believe is dip switch. Question- In order to move to a rolling code technology- Do I need to replace the whole system, or just the remote(s) and or the wall opener. The police were just here as someone remotely opened my garage door and then the dog scared them away.


texts: Hardwire or plug in for LED strip lighting?

texts:
I'm interested in installing LED strip lighting around a door frame in a reach-in closet and laundry space (essentially a deeper reach-in closet with washer/dryer side by side).

I plan to purchase aluminum channels, install them along the sides and top of the door frame, next to the molding, and insert the LED strip lights inside. I would like to also have the lighting be controlled by a regular light switch or sensor.

I am having difficulty deciding if going with a regular plug-in transformer or with a hardwired transformer option is best (i.e., looks professional)/code-compliant.

I'm not sure that I want an AC adapter brick hanging out on the floor or shelf (or wherever I decide to put it). Similarly, if going with the hardwired option, do I need to enclose it in a box or protect it somehow?

Thanks!


texts: Identify flexible metal tubing and connector

texts:
I need to replace a water-tight tube, but what was used before eludes me. It's from a home made hot water handling system I inherited.

It seems like flexible aluminum conduit, but the ribs are concentric, not a spiral. See first image.

The connector is a stainless threaded nut and washer but, but it seems to be retained by a crimping flat of the tubing's rings.  See second picture.

So that suggests I can't just replace with flexible conduit. None of the conduit connectors seem to match, either.

Any idea what material this is? Or for what intended usage, so that I could try to find a compatible solution?


texts: Preventing condensation on the inside of an exposed structural exterior brick wall

texts:
I have a 1920's town home with exterior brick walls. In the upstairs bedroom on the northwest corner, I occasionally see condensation forming and running down the brick wall in the winter. This is probably caused by the warm moist interior air condensing on the relatively cold exposed brick wall.
I applied a few layers of dry-lok to keep the soft mortar from shedding, but this also seems to have stopped some of the condensation.
Is there a product that is similar to the matte clear dry-lok that might be better able to reduce condensation on the brick wall? If not, what other steps might I take in order to reduce the formation of condensation on the brick wall short of furring it out and insulating it?


texts: Will I need to change out box to hang 16lb ceiling fan?

texts:
Just got a Hunter 42in ceiling fan, and it's about 16lbs. I am hanging it in the kitchen. The house was built in 2015 and I have pictures I took during the rough in electrical. It's conduit and I see it's a standard box, mounted to one joist,  with conduit coming in though the side.
Will I be able to hang a small fan off this that is 16lbs?
I came across this YouTube video showing how to knock out an old box and put in a fan support by twisting it in. This is in between floors, so I would have to knock it out like the video, if even possible with the conduit nipple against the box.


texts: Electrical Service Run to 100A Sub-panel

texts:
I have 2 x 240V 150A main panels next to each other in my house.

I want to install a 40A 120V breaker in each panel to feed a 240V sub-panel so I would have a total of 80A feeding into a 240V sub-panel.

Do I run a Neutral wire from each main panel and tie into the new sub-panel bus bar?

Do I run a bare copper wire from each main panel and tie it into the neutral bus bar?


texts: Ideas to finish the edge of my wall with decorative stone

texts:
I have installed decorative stone in some of my walls, I really like how the look like, though the pictures don't make justice, but I'm not really happy with the edges since I don't have a wall that covers the sides. The sides look like the stones have just been cut or put in there like a 3D wallpaper.

One of the walls, the most noticeable that is on the entrance of the condo has just a closet on the side, picture attached for more context.


texts: Single breaker, split wire that is inaccessible and one wire not working

texts:
I have an upstairs bedroom and main level entryway light that are on the same breaker.  The entryway light is working, but the bedroom is not.  I have found a wire in the bedroom crawl/attic that isn't hot when the breaker is on, and one wire that is.  I confirmed that the one that is hot is for the entryway light. So there is one wire in attic area that is working correctly and powering the entryway light, and one that is not working that is used for the bedroom.   Is there an issue with cutting the non working wire, capping it and just leaving it in case it comes on, and pig tailing the other side after cutting that feeds the bedroom to the working entryway wire?

Breaker--->Wire from basement--->split two ways to 1.entryway light 2.bedroom

The whole issue started randomly by bedroom power turning off, and light still working.  I am sure they are on same breaker.  All of the 6 switches/outlets in the bedroom are backstabbed.  I changed the two that are used most, and still nothing.  Would one of those outlets going bad be able to cut power only to that area, since the entryway light has always worked properly?  If i could find where the main wire from basement breaker is split, i could fix that, if it's a loose connection.

thanks for any ideas.


texts: How to choose the correct toilet flapper (on the web)?

texts:
Are flappers color coded?  If not, how do I go about buying a flapper on the web?  They all look sort of the same.  How likely is it that a flapper that looks right on the web will fit my toilet?

Thanks.


texts: Can I stick a tarpaulin using a nylon Velcro(Hook and Loop) in my wooden roof?

texts:
I have a wooden roof and I want to cover it with Vinyl Tarpaulin. I am further covering it with tiles to prevent damage from UV rays. Is it possible if I attach one part of Velcro with my tarpaulin(by stitching it with a vinyl piece and then welding the vinyl piece with tarpaulin) and its counterpart to my wooden roof(by nailing)? So when I lay my tarpaulin, they can be stuck together.
The velcro that I have is a nylon material I guess.

Will it last long in thermal cycling?
How much life can be expected from this?
Can it withstand the wind load?


texts: Environmental protection for computer equipment in unheated garage

texts:
I live in Minnesota, and I have an unheated, detached garage. I would like to place an "offsite" data backup device (possibly a NAS) in the garage, which I should be easily able to connect to the wireless network in the house (in case of fire, burgling, etc).

My biggest concern is the cold in the winter; I understand most computer equipment has a published operating range down to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and I expect it to be, at times, up to 60-70 degrees colder than that during the winter. I'm slightly concerned with the heat in the summer, though days where the temperature in such a garage would be too hot for a computer would be few.  I'm also somewhat concerned about the physical security of the equipment.

I'm interested in building or buying some sort of a modest-sized, climate-controlled enclosure in which I could put a computer and/or NAS, that would ideally provide:

a safe operating temperature for the equipment, but in an energy efficient way (keep the temperature just warm enough and/or just cool enough to not put undo stress on the enclosed gear)
ventilation for the equipment; I'm not completely certain, but I don't think a sealed / airtight enclosure would be good for a computer-like thing
some degree of physical security for the enclosed equipment (in case of garage break-in)
not interfere with the wireless network unduly (it does need to attach to the network to serve its function)

I've googled a bit, but I haven't found anything along these lines either for sale or as a hobbiest project. Maybe it's out there and I haven't stumbled upon the right search terms.

Can anyone offer advice / suggestions on some sort of enclosure that fits the bill?

Thanks!


texts: Teak flooring in the shower, good idea or bad?

texts: There is a trend to place teak flooring into the shower. What is the best way to accomplish this with minimal problems? Is there an advantage to having teak flooring in a shower, or is it just not a great idea no matter what type of wood is used to place it into a shower?


texts: Can I power a single pole switch from the end of a 3 way?

texts: I've done the imaginable and forgot to run one more line to the gang box.  Is there any hope I can pull power from the other 3 way switch also in the box?  I've attached the diagram of how its currently wired and what I'm hoping can happen.


texts:
Total newbie here and 1st post.

Im trying to change out my kitchen sink strainer but during the process I damaged one of the pipes (corroded). Also the slip nut is stuck (need a hacksaw). Im looking to keep the same pipe setup, just swap out the old ones with new ones (except the trap)

I would like to know the names of each pipe in the photo.
How do I measure/find the pipe sizes?

my strainer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012Q5RTSW/

Thx guys!


texts: Front door won't fully close or sit flush

texts:
What's the best way to fix an exterior door that won't close all the way? Currently it closes ~99%, but I have to push the door to make it fully shut. The deadbolt won't easily slide in or out, and often catches.

That is - the 'neutral' sitting position of the door is just a bit short of being actually flush. This means to open or close the deadbolt I have to push or pull on the door to make it flush, then move the deadbolt.

On this particular door I installed a set of Door Armor - which seems like obvious culprit. Part of the set goes on the lock side - extra metal brackets that wrap around the latch and deadbolt. This actually seems fine - I had to chisel down a notch in the door so the metal would fit flush and nothing stuck out. But that is done. The other part of the set is metal plates that fit inbetween the hinges. The idea is to spread out the weight of a blow against the door. But the hinges now have a noticible gap from the metal plate being wedged between them.

  middle hinge (link to full size pic) - has the metal plate installed. This forces space between the hinges. Terrible idea? Obvious reason why this door would never sit flush?

  top hinge (link to full size pic) - no metal plate here. The plates on the bottom and middle hinges force the top hinge to have this gap. Is that bad?

Seems like this metal gap is the obvious problem, and I may have to just get rid of it? I want to see if there is anything else I can try, as it would be nice to have the reinforced door.

I replaced all of the original short screws in the door and wall with 3.5" screws. I was hoping that by tightening all of the hinge and door screws it would help to pull the door closer and close flush. The screws are partially threaded screws, so I may try using fully threaded screws and see if that can pull the door closer.

I have tried researching and making several adjustments to fix the door and make it flush, but no luck.

Any suggestions? Or what am I not understanding about how doors hang that would make this not sit flush?


texts: What should I do about an above grade cinder block basement wall that is wet?

texts: Above grade cinder block basement wall is wet. It's right at the ground level.   On same wall the below grade isn't wet.  i think it's b/c not much sun on that side of the house as other. what to do?  Hoping to finish the basement.  Put XPS board on wall and still wet, but only in a couple of spots.  very strange.


texts: How can I attach the divider for sliding closet doors to concrete?

texts:
I've finished my basement including carpet and laminate floors. I have sliding closet doors in both areas.

What is the best way of attaching the door separator on the ground, knowing that it is concrete underneath?


texts: What circular saw blade would i use to cut laminate flooring planks?

texts: Can you tell me what circular saw blade and with how many teeth I will need to use for cutting laminate flooring planks?


texts:
I'm having trouble with an older Nordyne HVAC unit.
Current situation: Immediately after turning the unit on with a heat signal from the thermostat, the fuse on the control board blows. Most recently it didn't blow the fuse, however the transformer has now burned up. That's the newest problem, but I think it was a side effect of the problem, not the original problem.
I have tested all the limit switches, none are grounded and show appropriate resistance across them. However to put them out of the equation for testing I jumped them. No change. Continues to blow fuse. Replaced the board. No change other than the transformer burning up. I now have 110 coming in, but no voltage coming out.
Another note, the fuse still blows even when the signal wire for heat, white is removed from the board. And I tested the thermostat wires to see if any where grounded, none were going to ground.
Ideas? I've probably got more information I've forgotten to include.


texts: Why is my kitchen island sink gurgling when my dishwasher is draining?

texts: I noticed a few days ago that, whenever my dishwasher is draining, the sink in my kitchen island gurgles (glug, glug, glug). I THINK that the sink connects to the main kitchen sink drain underneath the floor. Any idea what could be causing this? Also, I'm not sure if it's related but I just noticed that my upstairs bathtub is draining really slowly now. But I'm pretty sure it's a separate line until it gets to the Septic connection like everything else.


texts:
I tested my outlets the other day and found 148-152 volts at all my outlets. I then tested all my outlets with a commercial electric ms112h outlet tester and all tested good but still 150 volts. I then shut off all breakers except 1 outlet circuit still 150 volts. I then tried a different outlet circuit still 150 volts. What would my next step be?

I live in Oregon.
I was using a Craftsman volt meter 82141 low end but seems like a good meter.


texts: How does a roof replacement impact recommended timing of solar panel installation?

texts: I just found out that I should replace my (currently asphalt shingle) roof in the next year. I am also interested in evaluating the feasibility of installing photovoltaic and/or solar hot water panels. So I am wondering if it makes sense to look at the timing of these projects in tandem. Is there a reduced risk to having leaks, etc. if I get any panels installed near the same time as replacing the roof?


texts: How to get rid of moisture in hardwood flooring?

texts:
We have recently come to a halt with our building due to our hardwood floorboards cupping  and swelling in several places.(Boards were acclimatized for several months before installation)  They were laid by a so called professional installer, who sealed the concrete first then laid the boards, sanded and applied only one coat of lacquer.

Within a month we noticed boards cupping and swelling!! The installer has no idea of the cause and wanted more money to fix the boards, but not fix the cause of the problem. Since then we have given him the boot!! (unfortunately paid him majority of the money!! and heard nothing from him since!!)

My husband (handyman) replaced the popped up boards and sanded the entire area lightly at first waited another few months then sanded the entire area again. Now are faced with the moisture coming up through the joins as pictured.

Is there any solution? Our next step is an expensive inspector, but unfortunately money is an issue right now. If there's anybody out there that has had this problem or knows how to solve or point us in the right direction would be so helpful.

Beginning of problem.

Another pic, repair stage boards replaced and lightly sanded. Within a week of sanding Moisture coming up.


texts: What purpose does the lining inside sheet metal duct serve?

texts:
Sheet metal ductwork is often lined inside with a black fiberglass insulation material. What purpose does the lining serve?

Insulation is one answer, but ducts can be insulated on the external surfaces. I expect external insulation would have the same thermal effect without increasing the air friction losses or adding internal surface area for dust, dirt, or mold.


texts: How should I seal a metal window frame to a cinder block wall?

texts: I have a basement window with a metal frame fitted into a cinder block wall.  The sill is crumbling and I'll find the right masonry product to repair that but the seal/transition from the frame to the wall was also in bad shape.  It wasn't hard enough to be mortar and seemed too brittle and clumpy to be caulk.  It felt like hardened glazing compound.  I'm unsure what to reseal it with.  There is a gap of about 1/4".  Any thoughts?


texts:
I have a newly created floor (for a loft conversion) that is chipboard over wooden joists with noggins.   At present there is no ceiling below it.

Some of the joists have been doubled up due to the span and don’t fit that well together as the timber was not perfectly true.   I can also see some gaps between noggins and the joists, once again due to the joists timber not always being true.

There are lots of creaks as the floor is walk on.

However the chipboard is screwed down to all the joists and glued in the tongue and grooves.

Is there something I can easily fill the gaps between the joists and noggins with from below (e.g. some sort of thick flexible glue) that will solve the problem long term?

Will putting screws (as well as the current nail gun nails) in all the noggins helps?

How do I stop the problem coming back after the ceiling has been put up?


texts: Gaps in wood floor near heating register

texts: I have a maple floor that is showing gaps near the heating register. Looks like the wood is drying out due to the heat and shrinking. Is there any way to reduce this? Some sort of thermal barrier between the metal of the register and the wood?


texts: How to apply plaster to a plaster damaged drywall section

texts:
Some plaster came off our drywall.  It's not a huge area but bigger than I'd like to use a polyfiller on.
Can I plaster directly onto the area or do I need to use a PVA or similar?  Is there a technique to get it flush with the rest of the wall?


texts:
I've got a box of sockets like this:

I was planning to mount a few of these on the ceiling, but am wondering about safety since the hot wire is essentially exposed, and would be very close to one's fingers when changing a bulb. I stopped at the hardware store and saw sockets just like these, except they had cardboard around the upper portion. Would I be ok wrapping electrical tape around the upper portion, or does anyone have better ideas? I also thought about wrapping tape on it then putting a cover like this over it. Thanks.


texts: Door not flush to door stop at the top but is at the bottom

texts:
I have recently replaced an interior door and the door now bows away from the door stop at the top (latch side) about a 1/4 inch but is about flush at the bottom . I am at a loss for how to correct this. The hinges are mounted the same at the top and bottom and there is no significant gap issue in the door spacing from the frame. Any advice would be appreciated.

Added a photo of the corner in question. Hopefully it will help in describing what I am seeing. The hinge side is close to flush with the door stop, as is the bottom of the latch side.


texts:
I have a legacy window that I am boarding up, for reasons of interior layout.
As the surrounding wall is stucco finish, I want to do the same over the boarded up window. I was thinking to just screw some lathe over the OSB and then stucco over.
However, I am concerned about waterproofing.
Should I apply some material over the OSB to waterproof it, like maybe roofing felt paper or vapor barrier (the latter may impede adhesion of stucco)?


texts: Weight distribution in load bearing wall?

texts:
Good morning,
I have a load bearing wall that separates my living room from my kitchen and dining room. The wall is approximately 23 feet long, with 2 openings in it. One opening is 35 inches(going into the kitchen), and one is 47 inches(going into dining room).

I originally wanted to take part of this wall out, and I contacted the structural engineer in my area. The only thing he would recommend is replacing the whole wall with a beam then add in whatever walls I wanted to keep. This cost me $250 and an additional $1000 if I get him to design the beam. I felt like he would not give me any other ideas as he wanted me to pay the $1000.

This brings me to my question about the weight distribution of this wall. I understand I can't make an opening with a header and 2 posts because the load points(2 posts) will be sitting on the beam below and will not be directly over the posts/footings in the basements(although both current openings are also not over the posts in the basements).

I'm wondering if I were to put a header above the opening, leave a half wall, put a "header" at the top of the half wall, which my posts will sit on(rather then go straight to the beam in basement), would it distribute the weight evenly across all 2x4s in the half wall instead of having 2 load points?

Here is a picture to better demonstrate what I mean. It's not a very good drawing any questions please ask.

Just for extra information, the posts in the basement are the exterior wall on one side, another interior concrete wall on the other side, and one post directly in the middle. There is no second floor over this, just a roof, although it is quite a large area, 23x30

I would also like to increase the 47" opening by a couple feet. Anyone know how I could do the calculations to see if I would be able to do that?

I would hate to pay the $1000 for engineer to tell me I can't do it lol.

Thanks for the help!


texts: What kind of pump control switch can I use to detect the presence of water pressure?

texts:
I have a water pump that fills up water tank on roof top. I have to turn on water pump manually every time the water supply is on and then have to turn it off when supply is off to prevent dry running pump.

I want a switch that can turn on/off the pump automatically sensing water supply. What that kind of automatic controller switch is called and how to use it ?


texts: Why does one stove top burner spark the other and vise versa?

texts:
I have a two front stove top burners, burner A and burner B.

When I "ignite" A it will spark the spark plug for A & B.

When I "ignite" B it will also spark the spark plug for A & B.

its a stainless steal simple GE stove top and oven. Not sure what the model is.


texts: Connecting a washing machine and tumble dryer to the same sink drain

texts:
I'm thinking on using one of these to install a washing machine and a condenser tumble dryer to the sink's drain pipe of my utility room.

Why is one inlet pointing upwards and the other one downwards? do I need to have any special consideration for the height of the appliances, etc?

I know that a washing machine should be plumbed between 60 and 100 cm for example. I'm trying to avoid the water from one appliance or the sink ending in the other.


texts:
GE Zigbee Smart Dimmer
I can't get it to turn on
I have tried 2 different ones and neither will turn on
The only way we can get them to turn on is by putting both wires in the same hole, but then it obviously won't turn off


texts: Can I put a clothesline between two rafters?

texts:
If I attach a rope to two distant rafters and use it as clothesline, would this put excess pressure on the rafters?
This is a roof over a deck. I thought it could be handy on a rainy day, but not sure if there is anything I need to consider first.


texts: I have 2 identical overhead projectors with bad diodes, but the diodes have different numbers. How do I find the right one that works?

texts: I have 1 overhead projector that blows a new lamp right away. The correct lamp is rated 82Vac and 360W. I have 120Vac to the lamp, which makes sense why the lamp is blowing immediately. The only items in front of the lamp in the circuit are a fuse and a diode. Similar problem with my second projector except my voltage to the lamp is 24vac. I believe I have 2 bad diodes, but each diode has a different number even though they look very similar. I don't know which one could be the right one. The manufacturer can't tell me because they don't sell parts for these, they just warranty them out with full replacement. I don't qualify for direct replacement unfortunately. Does anyone know how to figure the right diode for what I need in this circuit? I'm an electrician but I don't work with electronic components. All I know is diodes allow current flow in one direction.....


texts: My ceiling fan light stopped working in my kitchen. I thought one of the sockets broke so I bought a new light kit. Installed it ...correctly...and still no light. There is a remote control receiver attached to the fan that can control both but since replacing the light kit would it still work with the remote ? Or would I need to remove the remote receiver? I checked for all loose wires and tripped breakers. I have no idea what’s wrong. Any suggestions?


texts:
I'm about to finish the rough plumbing in my shower, wife wants 2 shower heads. I'm fine with it, but what are the specs for the pipe size? Can I buy 2 shower valves with 1/2" inlets or do I need 3/4"?
 I am running 3/4" PEX to the first valve and plan to reduce to 1/2" at the valve. But I can do whatever is needed to keep good water pressure, including soldering copper at the valve.


texts: Is it OK to use 12-3 awg to wire a ceiling fan and light?

texts:
In a 2000 era home in Georgia, I replaced an overhead lighting fixture with a combo ceiling fan and light.  (Yes, I reinforced the junction box appropriately.)

The wiring was simple enough, the power supply is via the switch box (now two switches).  The question is:  For the wiring that runs between the switch box and the fan & light, can I use a single 3-conductor cable instead of two 2-conductor cables?  Electrically, it works.  Safety and code issues?

Ground and neutral connect through the switch box to both fan and light.  I split the incoming hot (black) to supply both switches, then on the outbound side I ran one switched hot for the fan (via the red), and the switched hot for the light (via the black).

It's not just that I'm cheap (I am). The rationale for doing this is that it was easier to pull a replacement single 3-conductor wire rather than pull a second 2-conductor cable.


texts:
I took out an old insta-hot faucet in our kitchen countertop and the hole that had been drilled was too big in diameter for any newer water filter faucet.

The diameter of the hole is around 1.5" while the diameter of the faucet fixture cover is barely that large. Unfortunately the new faucet moves around a lot and we want to find something we can plug the hole with to create a more secure seal.

The surface material of the countertop is Corian.

I was thinking something like epoxy might work, but I also don't want to make this too permanent so I can't remove the water fixture if it breaks.

Any suggestions on epoxies or other materials I should look at to make the seal a bit tighter around our water faucet? Any tips?

We're talking about half an inch in diameter or so to fill.


texts: Advice needed replacing 45 year old spigot

texts:
I have to replace an old spigot which leaks from the threads when hose is attached.

My question - is there any way of knowing how it is attached to its 1/2" copper supply tube.  Sweated or threaded connection
On the basement side the copper tube leading to it goes into  wood siding surrounded by caulk.  I have attached closeups of the spigot and it appears there are two nails securing it to the aluminum siding The sides of the spigot adjacent to the nails have a flat area which might be for a wrench.
I just want to make sure because that I dont break the copper tubing in the basement if  I attempt to rotate the spigot  off with a wrench.

Any help with this would be appreciated

enter image description here


texts: Sound of water running after bath taps turned off

texts:
When running a bath, for the duration of my bath I hear water running/heavy trickling coming from the drain away holes at the top of the bath drain.
This has got louder and stronger over the last few weeks.
The plug is not leaking so don't know what is causing this sound.
Is it a leak or big problem?


texts: Prevent sun shade pole from rotating in base

texts:
I have bought a centre pole sun shade (a Doppler Sunliner) for my balcony, along with a hollow base filled with water for it to stand in, which works fine. But as soon as there is a tiny bit of wind, the sun shade starts rotating. How do I prevent this?

As far as I can see, the base I bought does not have any mechanism in place to prevent rotating (the hole into which the pole is inserted is a plain cylinder with a smooth bottom). There is a possibility to tighten the grip around the pole through tightening a screw of sorts but this does not seem enough. The instructions for the sun shade state that if there is wind the sun shade should not be used, but it seems silly to stow it away even at the slightest hint of wind, which is sadly enough to send it spinning.

So far we make do with a system of ropes and carabiner hooks but I wonder if anyone has any other suggestion on how to prevent the sun shade from spinning in its base.


texts: How can I fix this moisture problem to stop mold growing?

texts:
Background and The Problem

I am trying to solve the problem of mold growing on my bedroom ceiling.  The house is a California Bulgalow built in about 1940.  The house is single-brick with plaster interior walls.  It is single story and with a roof cavity serveral meters high at the peak.  There is insulation above the ceiling but not in the walls.

The floor of the house is about 1 foot above ground level.  It's built in a low-lying area.  There is no basement.  There are vents every 2 or 3 meters around the perimeter.  I checked and none of these are blocked.

There is an ensuite adjacent to the problem room.  It has a exhaust fan that vents into the roof cavity.  Two whirly-vents have been installed.

There is a reverse cycle air-conditioner, but this does not run often as it's programmed to heat at 16C (61F) and cool at 28C (82F).  Summer was unusually wet.

Attempts So Far

So far I have attempted to remove the mold by scrubbing with beach, and when it came back, diluted vinegar.  This worked temporarily, but did not solve the underlying problem.  When I inspected the house in prior to purchase, there was a small of bleach which I put down to the vendor cleaning the bathroom.  I now think they probably had this same problem.

Investigations

I went into the roof cavity looking for leaks.  The insulation batts make it easy to find any source of water.  I could not find any roof leaks.  The moisture from the bathroom exhaust fan just condenses on the flashing under the roof.

I bought a hygrometer to measure the relative humidity in the room.  For a couple of weeks it was 50-60%.  With recent rain, it went up to 60-75%.  I could take moisture measurements in the sub-floor or attic if needed.

What should I do next?


texts: I am trying to install a Honeywell rth6580wf thermostat. I have located all the wires except Y. It is a gas powered heat and central AC system. At the system there is a Y wire going outside to unit, but not one coming into the house to the thermostat. I have C, G, W, and R(jumpers with Rc). What can I do to get the Y wires to the thermostat?


texts: How to change switched outlets to half switched and half always hot

texts: I'm trying to make my two switched outlets to be half hot. I tried breaking the brass tab on outlet 1 to accomplish that but that didn't work. It only made one receptacle work from the switch while the other didn't work at all. It also caused outlet 2 to not work at all. I don't know if it's the current wiring or if it's just not possible at all. Help please!!


texts:
This question is not for the faint of heart.
I want to know if I can turn an old outlet on a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC) into 1 or 2 GFCI outlets.
My house was built in 1970 and has a MWBC in the kitchen with two breakers going to each duplex outlet, one to the top and one to the bottom, and very old outlets. I want to change outlets in the kitchen to GFCI.
All the outlets have 2 blacks, 2 reds, and 2 whites AND a ground running to them. The specific outlet I want to change is also in the same box as the disposal switch. See picture below.
As far as I understand, you can't have all 7 wires to one GFCI outlet because there's no breaky tab on the white side and the circuits will all mesh and short out.
So,

Can this outlet be turned into 2 GFCI? Or will I just have to get an electrician to figure out wiring 1 breaker to each outlet?
On a separate note, why are the white wires to the disposal connected to the line out to the next outlets?

I don't know how to make the fancy electric diagrams so I drew a picture of the box.

Can I do this? Or would it be something else?


texts: How can I attach stainless steel utensils to aluminium posts?

texts: I am trying to attach aluminum posts to stainless steel eating utensils so that I can then screw the posts into my kitchen cabinets.  The directions said to use bonding glue, but I've tried JB Weld and Pro Line Fast Grab Premium Loctite, but neither work.  Would soldering be the answer or do I need to find someone to weld them?


texts: Can I (and should I) remove old unused electrical wiring?

texts:
I have some old electrical wiring original to my 1946 house. In some cases it goes between my button board rock lath walls and was stapled there. Are there techniques for removing disconnected, unused electrical cable that has been stapled within or behind a wall? (without opening the walls)

The cable has black fabric on the outside and each wire has a kind of plastic insulation as well as its own fabric sheathing. It is difficult, if not impossible, to pull it out from beneath the staples even when I have direct access to it (e.g. in my attic).

I suppose I could just leave it there but I'd rather get it out if possible.


texts:
I have a standard air conditioner.  I have just dropped it into the window and slammed the window closed.  I am just a bit concerned that If there were high winds or an earthquake the unit could drop out of the window.  Is this dangerous?  I live on the third floor so if it fell out of the window it could easily kill somebody.

I looked on youtube and it looks like the standard way to install an AC unit is to just open the window put it in and close the window again.  This seems very minimal.  Any other things to consider?


texts: How can I strengthen attic rafters for storage?

texts: I have standard 2x4 rafters and want to use it just for storage and I am worried they are not strong enough.  I was thinking I could buddy ( or sister) up the 2x4's with another 2x4 or 2x6.  or stack another 2x4 onto the existing rafter.   I am no engineer but logically I am thinking this would work.  I am open to any idea that is safe and easy to do.


texts: What STAINABLE wood fill is best to use on a plywood floor?

texts:
I am doing a quick fix on an existing plywood, unfinished floor.  I need to fill the gaps between boards before staining, then applying polyurethane.

I have plenty of Minwax Stainable Wood Filler to complete the job, but have read horror stories from others who say it is not as stainable as it should be.   I have also read that some use it for their floors, though the container states "Not For Use On Hardwood Floors".  Since plywood is not hardwood, does that statement still apply?

Since I have the MinWax filler already, I wish to use it, but if this isn't a good option, can you please suggest an alternative.  I have heard that FamoWood latex filler would be a good choice.  Any comments on that product for this use would be appreciated.


texts: How do you insulate exposed crawl space?

texts: How do you insulate floor of cabin built on piers that has exposed crawl space and also keep the mice out? I want to insulate floor from underneath cabin. Cabin is in northeast U.S. and subjected to winter weather.Floor Joists are 24" oc.


texts: Do I have to check if my floor is level before installing new linoleum (from a roll, not tiles)?

texts:
I just tore up my old linoleum flooring and will be installing new linoleum in the next few days.  Some internet research has revealed that I need to make sure the floor is level and, if it is not perfectly level, pour leveler over it.

Let's assume that my floor is not perfectly level.  What are the implications of installing the new floor even if the unlevelness is completely unnoticeable?  I am not one for cutting corners on home improvement work, but if it's truly not necessary to make it perfectly level then I would be okay with skipping that step.


texts: How can I find the loocation of a break in a 240V underground circuit to an outside storage building

texts: I have an underground 240V circuit that the two hot legs are both broken, and the neutral is still intact. I have verified this with a meter. I need to find the location of the break (or burnout) so it can be repaired. I don't want to trench for a new cable because there are many other water lines and wires for a irrigation system in this area of yard. I tried a method I saw on youtube which involved using a wire connected to a lawn mower and to the underground wire and picking up signal with a portable AM radio. It works, but even thoug I had it connected to one of the broken wires, the signal bled over into the intact wire and continued to be picked up by the radio. I would like to know if anyone knows if a signal tracer available on Amazon such as the Noyafa NF-816, or something similar, would work, or would the signal bleed over through the intact wire.


texts:
Most of the walls in the old part of my house are plaster.  Hard, nasty, amazingly solid plaster.  While this is nice in some areas, there's others that it's rather annoying -- such as on the stairs (previous owners have screwed in a banister ... with regular screws, awesome)

I would have no problem popping out the plaster and exposing some brick, or even better, find some wooden slats, get some insulation in there and maybe toss up some drywall.  Yea, I know, it'll be a mess, but oh well, I got a shop vac :-)

Anyway, what's behind those walls?  (and someone needs to make a -plaster- tag !)


texts: How would I connect multiple ground wires in this case (replacing ceiling pendant lights)?

texts:
We have this new pendant light where there are WHITE (neutral) - BLACK (live) - GREEN (grounds) wires from the pendant and bare copper wire already attached to and coming from the green screw in the fixture.
I believe in my ceiling electrical box, there will be black/white/green or bare ground wires.
I know that black from pendant goes with black from the ceiling and white with white, but for the ground wires, should I connect GREEN from the pendant + loose end (left side of the picture) of the copper bare wire from the green screw in the fixture + ground bare wire from the ceiling all together in one wire nut/cap screw?
And I shouldn't touch that copper wire loop that's connected from the right side of the screw to the silver nut in the middle? Any advice will be greatly appreciated!!


texts: Install recessed lights and chandelier with 3-way switches

texts:
I am remodeling my entry way and dining room to give a more open feel.

Existing:

15 Amp breaker
12-2 Feed directly from the box
two gang box outside of the kitchen

1 standard switch and 1 three way (chandalier turns on and off from entry and kitchen and the can lights only turn on from the kitchen)
12-3 wire connecting switches and running to chandelier

12-3 wire running from chandalier to can lights

12-3 wire from switches to entry door(Entry switch only turns on chandalier and not can lights.

The chandelier and can lights are not centered in the room which is odd as there was not issue with the joist spacing above. The first project is to center the chandelier. From there I am removing the two can lights in the center of the room and adding four in the corner. (Since opening walls the entry is a little dim).  I am also looking to add a double 3 way switch to the entry way.

Link to Double Three Way
 This will allow the canned lights and chandelier to be turned on from the kitchen side or the entry box. Due to the revised spacing I need to run all new wires. I went ahead and removed everything above the ceiling.

I plan on running the wires like this diagram:
Link to Wiring Diagram

I plan on replacing the wire with 14-3 since the breaker is so close and I am not running much off the lines.This would require the following:

Two lines from the kitchen box to the entry box for the 3 way switches.
1 line from the kitchen box to the chandelier
1 second line from the kitchen box to the can lights.

Do you think this is the correct approach or is there a way to run 1 line from the kitchen box to the entry box to control? Any other suggestions?


texts: How can I repair a joint on the legs of my table?

texts:
I need to repair the legs on my dinging room table. The joint is coming loose. I've included pictures, instead of trying to explain the situation.

The first picture is a picture of the leg. The next three are pictures of the joint that I need to repair.

The wood should be flush, right up against the two pieces, but there is a 1/16th inch gap. The gap can be close pretty easily by applying pressure.

I was considering gluing it with carpentry glue. Or even putting some small screws that would attach the leg to the middle piece.

Here are the pictures: http://imgur.com/a/OoVcf#0


texts: Mounting a window air conditioner on top of a sliding horizontal window

texts:
I need to install a window air conditioner in my master bedroom. However, the only suitable window there is a horizontal sliding window. To complicate things more, I need to place it on top, since my king size bed obstructs the lower part, as you can see here:

This is how that window looks from the outside:

I'm thinking in building a support structure like this one, using 2 by 4 planks:

And after some thinking I think I can attach the transversal planks to the vertical ones, instead of attaching them to the outer wall, like this:

And now, I'm thinking I can get rid of the exterior support structure altogether (in red in my last two pictures). The AC unit weights 48 lbs.

What do you think? Is there a simpler/better way to do it? Also, I'm renting, so I'd lean towards a solution that does the minimum damage to the window structure.


texts: Letter's found at new construction sites

texts: I realized that for along while when arriving at new construction sites, mostly residential, I see the same 3 capitalized letters spray painted on the road directly in front of the work zone. What do the letters "U S A" pertain to in regards to the construction industry?


texts: unable to turn room light on all the time

texts: My house was owned and build by an electrician so the had a main panel connected to a relay box (picture attached) before goes out to the light switches (picture attached). The problem now is that I'm not able to turn on the ceiling light in one of the bedroom.  Sometime I can turn it on but for a few times before it won't turn on again. What do you think the problem is? the switch goes bad or the relay box goes bad? Another thing, what goes bad if the light stay on all the time? Finally, where can I find replacement parts for both relays panel and the light switches.  Thank you.


texts: How to make a long straight cut in a board at an angle?

texts:
I have a board about 1.5" thick and 12" wide and 8 feet long.

I need to cut the board diagonally and want the cut to be as straight as possible. (I am cutting the board diagonally. This does not involve a bevel cut.)

How can I do that?

I have a circular saw and a small portable table saw. I can buy equipment, but nothing large. I cannot buy a giant table saw with an 8' bed, for example.

(I do not think using outriggers with the portable table saw will work, because I have tried that before and it is not feasible to keep a board straight while feeding it 8 feet onto saw horses.)


texts: How to drill holes in 3/8" thick steel plates?

texts:
I had to drill some 1/2" holes in 3/8" steel plates. In addition to taking something like 15 min per hole, a brand new drill bit lasts maybe two holes and it is trash.

What is the best way to drill holes in steel that thick at home, assuming no special tools like a plasma cutter?


texts: Replacing light switches and outlets without electrical boxes

texts: I have a '96 manufactured home I'm getting ready to sell and most of the outlets and switches are a tan color that doesn't work with the color scheme I'm changing it too, plus they just look dirty. I just pulled the first switch out to find they used a switch that has little plastic feet to hold it to the wall and no electrical box. I'm wondering if there is feet like this that I can buy and use with a standard switch, or if I am going to have to put electrical boxes behind every single outlet and switch to be able to replace them?


texts: How do I determine where to connect a new C wire inside my furnace when no control panel or wiring terminal exists?

texts: I am replacing my existing thermostat with a new smart thermostat that requires a C wire connection and the old unit did not. I intended to utilize the unused Blue wire which is not connected on either end. The thermostat connection is straight forward but inside my furnace there is no control panel and no wiring terminal to connect the blue wire to. From what I’ve read so far I may be able to splice into the 2 twisted white wires coming from the condenser unit and some other device but I’m not sure if that is correct.


texts: My overhead metal door is “wedging” when close to bottom but also is hitting a track mounting bolt when it is forced up from inside.  When I push up from outside, it does not hit the bolt(s).  I believe the door is too close to the side where it is hitting the track mounting bolts.  How do I slide the door over?


texts: Are power outlets in a home out of phase with each other?

texts: I'm working on a science project and there's one aspect of home wiring I need to find out (don't worry, I'm not messing with wiring - this is all on paper).  Since 120V outlets in a home can be wired to either of the two 120V legs that come in from the power company, would it be a true statement that outlets on different breakers could be out of phase with each other?  In other words if Bedroom 1 is tied to leg 1 and bedroom 2 is tied to leg 2 is it reasonable to assume that the sine waves measured from outlets in bedroom 1 will be out of phase with the sine waves measured from outlets in bedroom 2?


texts: Is it possible that the flies are entering the house through the cold air returns and/or the heating/air conditioning vents??   We have a crawlspace for the basement and have determined that's where Chipmunks live.  If the flies can enter through our vents, I plan to screen the backsides of those vents. I have found no other source of possible entry into our house.


texts: How do I replace my electrical receptacle?

texts: There is 1 hot and 4 neutrals tied into one receptacle two neutrals on each screw with one hot on the other side. I want to put GFCI in its place on that circuit. I added a GFCI receptacle downstream.


texts: Is it legal to wire a bath fan using load from top of GFI outlet?

texts:
Purchased a place and we are re-wiring the bathroom and putting in a standing shower. The bathroom is quite small so there is just enough room for this. There is a dedicated circuit, a round box above the medicine cabinet for a bar light, and a shower fan+light above the shower rough-in. They are both fed from a box near the sink which contains a double switch and a GFI outlet. The top of the double switch will control the vanity light, and the bottom will control the fan+light.

I was told that it is illegal [in PA] to wire the shower fan+light using power tapped from the GFI outlet. Is this true? Essentially, if the bath fan+light were to short [water] it would trip the GFI found near the sink....or vice versa if the GFI outlet is tripped from water [hair dryer]. Since the vanity light would not be behind the GFI, it would stay on if a trip occurred....or i could wire that GFI too if needed.

If this is illegal, is there an alternate way to protect the fan with GFI without running ~30 feet more wire to a GFI breaker? This seems extremely overkill to run all that for just a bath fan that is already designed to function in a steamy environment tapped from a GFI that is already there. Thanks.


texts: Interior wall installation over hardwood finished floor?

texts:
I'm looking at moving my interior walls around. We are planning to keep our existing floor and replace open spaces with the same floor. We will be refinishing the floors when the wall moving is done.

Is it easier to cut out the flooring where the wall is going to be and attach wall to subfloor (same with finished drywall ceiling) or can I just build the wall into the existing finished areas. So attach the wall through the hardwood flooring into the subfloor at the base and through the drywall ceiling into the joists above?


texts:
I have a hornets' nest that I want to spray with insecticide.

The hive is approximately 20-25ft from ground level.

The insecticide that I have is in a aerosol spray can with a large actuator.

While the product is marketed as having a range of 20ft, I have found this claim to be false. In reality it only has a range of 6ft.

I would prefer not to climb up to the area on a ladder, for fear of being in swarming range of the hornets.

Instead, I would like to build a pole-based contraption that would allow me trigger and spray the can from the end of a 10ft pole.

My height + arms length =  8ft
Pole                    = 10ft
Spray range             =  6ft

Sum                     = 24ft

How can I make such a contraption?

Edit: I live in Canada, where specialty products like this take a long time to be delivered, and are hard to find locally.


texts: How can I thoroughly blackout a bedroom window on a budget?

texts:
I am renting a house that has beautiful wooden venetian blinds - that I can not remove or replace - but they are not very effective at blocking the ambient night light that is abundant on my street. This affects my sleep hygiene - it is strongly recommended to sleep in as dark environment as possible.

Now the challenge is:

I can not remove the existing blinds
I want to keep the room light during day so no sticker or dark foil
my budget is limited and I would like to avoid buying and installing heavy curtains

How do I darken the room on a budget? Any DIY tips are welcome.


texts: Downstream non-gfci outlet needs to power a refrigerator

texts:
The above picture is the backside of a non-GFCI downstream outlet.  I would like to plug a refrigerator into this outlet.  However, when I do the circuit gets tripped due to the surge of the motor coming on.

The outlet is in my garage at about 4 feet off ground level.

My question is this:  Can I do something to this outlet so that I can plug a refrigerator in without tripping the circuit?


texts: What kind of cable is this? (standing desk motor to power supply)

texts:
I need an extender for the cable below. It's directly attached to a motor that powers an electric standing desk. What kind of cable is it?

More images of the cable and power supply:

Cable: https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3N09.png
Power supply: https://i.stack.imgur.com/r17mW.png
https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LrJw.png
Text on cable: https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pj2G2.png


texts: Nest thermostat e heat link replacing the old danfoss

texts:
I really need help with replacing this current danfoss thermostat with a new nest thermostat e heat hub. I'm in the UK.

Below is the new heatlink just need to know what wires I need to wire and what ones I need to isolate.


texts: How should I replace 14/2 in wall with new 14/3?

texts:
Im trying to wire some can lights. There is a switch box that goes to an existing can light to which I want to run some 14/3. The reason I want 14/3 is to keep the existing can light on a separate switch and the new ones on their own switches.

There is 14/2 running to the existing can light. I want to replace the old 14/2 with 14/3. Could I attach the new 14/3 to the old 14/2 and pull the 14/2 out, replacing it with 14/3? Would it work?


texts: I replaced a surge arrestor for our home -- did I miss anything?

texts:
We're selling our home, and one of the things on our inspection was a "popped" surge arrestor - I don't have much experience at all with electrical work, but the process seemed pretty straightforward, so I saw no point in paying $280 for someone to come out and do what I could handle for $50.

Since I do have relatively little experience with electrical work though, even as easy as this appeared to be I still thought it'd be best to ask if someone could take a peak and see if there's anything immediately noticeable that I've missed?

edit: I should note that when the power is turned back on, the light is glowing green.


texts: I am changing a 2 in 1 switch that controls a light(top) and garbage disposal (bottom). They are controlled by different breakers. There was 3 wires in the old box. Black and red on top (different sides) and red on bottom, same side as black on top. I purchased a Legrand RCD33WCC6 paddle switch. When I wire red for light to top,black to common (Middle),and red for disposal on bottom. The light works with switch but disposal just comes on and stays on.  What is wrong?


texts: What could be causing my washer to make thumping sounds after the spin cycle?

texts:
I have a Kenmore model 417.94702300 washer/dryer combo.  A couple days ago the washer began making a thumping sound after every spin cycle, whether as part of a wash or just a rinse.  I found this page which seems to describe the symptoms correctly, but I would like to make sure that my brand/model will have the same or a similar set of fix options.

Questions:

Is this Kenmore model susceptible to the above problem as described, or is it something else?
Can I fix this more cheaply than buying a new washer/dryer and/or than hiring someone?


texts: Reading the measurement of the slope of a floor

texts: I have been told the slope of a floor is 2.5 degrees. How does that translate to the dropping of the floor so many inches in four feet?


texts:
I would be very grateful for any advice on the best (most efficient) design for wiring up some LED downlights for my workshop. A picture is attached.

Basically, I'm trying to figure out what is the best way to hook up x10 LED Downlights, 9 Watt, 320mA (20-30V) that each came supplied with one AC to DC transformer (constant current LED dimming driver).

I know basic DC electrical theory and am competent with soldering etc, but I am at a bit of a loss as to where to start with:

1) Best design for wiring these up, in terms of the optimum design for installation, and
2) the correct type of transformer, and
3) the most effective wiring harness, and wire gauge and how to account for current drop.

Ideally, I would like to plug in an AC to DC transformer, but from there I am a bit unsure of how to wire these up in the most efficient manner.

Any advice from you more expert and senior DIY electrician type souls would be much appreciated. I'll post with updates as I go ...


texts: What size wire for a 300' run to a 60A sub-panel?

texts:
I am going to be running wire underground to my shack about 300' away. I will need a 30amp a 20 amp and a 10 amp at the sub panel at the shack so 60 amps total. I assume I am going to need a 2 pole 60 amp break in the main panel. What wire am I going to need from the main panel to the sub panel?
Update - It is going to be a sugar shack about 20x20. I need 30 amps for a reverse osmosis machine, 20 amps for the pump im running most of the day then 10 amps for lights or whatever.
230 volts is what I run it on it draws 5.5 amps. 110 bolts is 7.5 amps. That is for the pump
The reverse osmosis is 110v 30amps


texts: How do I repair decking where my screws have broken?

texts:
We installed a deck (various 2x and 4x PT lumber with 5/4 PT decking) two summers ago. As the wood dried, it warped and shrunk, so the deck's been squeaking with every step. I just took an hour or so to tighten down all the decking screws to stop the squeaking only to discover that quite a number of screws had broken.
No, they didn't spin in their holes because they had stripped out the wood, the screw shafts had actually snapped:
Leaf present for artistic effect
As you can see, they snapped right about where the threads started - this seemed to be the common location for all the broken screws. It seems that the majority (but by no means all) of broken ones were along one joist, so maybe that piece of wood was more dense than the rest.
Unfortunately, the shaft of the screw is smaller than the diameter of and the piece that came out of the hole is longer than my screw extractors, so I can't get one down the hole to grab hold of the remainder of the screw to get them backed out.
I had this issue when I'd temporarily attached the stair treads to their stringers. In that case, I was removing all the screws anyway (had to redo the stringers), and was able to wiggle the tread up and off the screw, then removed the remainder of the screw with Vice Grips. While I could use this method, I'd prefer not to as that means removing about a dozen screws for each piece of decking that has a broken screw, then pulling all the screws.
I suppose I could just drive a new screw next to the old one, leaving the hole where the old screw was, but I would prefer not to leave a gaping hole for water to enter. (The wife, however, may just insist that it's "good enough" - if I'm tired enough, I won't argue with her... ;)
Any other suggestions on how to go about repairing this?
As a side note, I think I'll try a different brand of screw - I'm not pleased that so many of these have broken, and I'm not sure how much of the PT resistance and "exterior grade" is based on the paint that's obviously coming right off. I'm not going to go stainless, though. Don't have that much spare cash floating about.
Additional note: The brown/grey pattern is because it took us 2 years before we got a chance to seal the deck and it had weathered to a nice even grey. The pressure washing, no matter how hard I tried, didn't come out even, leaving the grey areas behind. Lesson learned.
Final note: It's only the decking screws that have failed. The rest of the deck is assembled with joist hangers/nails and or galvanized lag bolts. They are, to the best of my ability to examine them, all doing just fine.


texts: DIY Corner bathroom sink vanity installation

texts:
I have  this corner sink that I would like to install.

Holes location on sink :

I have moderate DIY skill and have previously installed a bidet that needed water hose T joint. So I think I can pull this one off.

There is existing water pipe for toilet and floor drain outlet-

T joint location for water connection:

Drain /grate connection:

The house plumbing type is pressurized , there is a main water valve that can be used to shut off water from the mains.

I could think of following parts :

Flexible water hose

Flexible drain pipe

Strainer Basket

2x Double headed coach screw ?

Saw them here at 4:00

youtube.com/watch?v=SrUdoKQukZw

Like this -

Any sealant ?
Water pipe T-joint

Any thing else I am missing? Any other tips to get this DIY job done would be great.

Thanks in advance


texts:
A Florida HOA electric bill doubles from $200 to $400 per month.  Powered items for the pool comprise LED lighting and a pool pump.  The electric circuit is for the pool.

Is it reasonable to start the investigation with the pool pump as the culprit?

If the pump is the culprit, what conclusions can one make regarding the excessive use of current?


texts: How can I stop my windows from leaking when mild winter weather occurs?

texts:
We have an 11 year old bungalow and this problem only occurs on the middle section of a bay window. We think that frost happens inside the insulation somewhere and when the temperature outside is mild the frost melts and water drips under the interior window trim and drips onto the slats of the blinds and pools on the window sill. We never have any water leakage when it rains.

We took out a large chunck of foam insulation in anticipation of mild weather and this morning the spot we had cleared was dripping. What do we do now?


texts: How should I reseal my cobblestone patio?

texts:
Disclaimer: I’m not a native speaker and, as such, I have limited vocabulary, especially in the home improvement department. I also have limited competence, but that’s another matter entirely.

I’m currently cleaning my cobblestone patio — with an high-pressure washer and, no, they’re not set on a sand bed  — and I need to seal them again. What should I use to do so? Would sand suffice?


texts:
I'm shopping for a combination vent fan/light for a bathroom, and some of the ones I've found state this:

  UL Listed for use over bathtubs and
  showers when connected to a GFCI
  protected branch circuit. 7 1/8" high
  housing, 4" round duct connector. Not
  for use over cooking surfaces. U.L.
  rated. If placed over bath or showers
  must be installed on a UFCL brand
  circuit.

What exactly is a "UFCL brand circuit"? I'm quite familiar with a GFCI protected circuit - is that just another term for the same thing?


texts: How do I stop a sharkbite brand fitting from spinning?

texts:
I recently replaced a number of shutoffs with SharkBite brand push on fittings. These seem to work well and hold water. More expensive, but cheaper than relearning to solder for a small job.

The only issue I have is that they spin around. I can find many references to the fact that they spin but I cannot find any remarks as to how to stop them from spinning.

The rotation is a problem with the angle-stops. When the valve knob is turned to open or close the flow the fitting spins so you have to use two hands to turn the valve.

How can I stop a a sharkbite fitting from spinning?


texts: How suitable is a reciprocating saw for cutting lengths of firewood (at home)?

texts:
I have a heap of untreated reject timber from a portable mill which I intend to use for firewood. It's in long pieces, often with bark on one side, and some are up to about 20cm (8") thick.

It is probably too thick for a circular skill saw, so my other options seem to be a chainsaw or maybe a reciprocating saw (I'd go with a corded electric model for either case). I've never seen anyone use a reciprocating saw at all, so I have no idea what they are capable of; would one cut through 20cm of timber without too much trouble?

Are there any other problems I might run into using one for firewood (other than having to replace a blade occasionally if I hit a nail or stone)?

This question was a good introduction to my investigation, but only provided a small amount of detail about the reciprocating saw option (and it's hard to know how seriously to take it when it's the "most fun" option).


texts: Can I use this neutral wire running through the switch box for my smart switch?

texts:
I'm replacing a light switch with a smart switch that requires a neutral wire.  When I removed the existing light switch, I noticed there is a white wire running through the box.  Assuming this is the neutral wire, can I cut that, splice another wire in, cap it, and use for my smart switch?
There is a GFCI switch about 6 inches away.  Could that white wire be going to the GFCI switch?  If so, can I still use it?
Here's a picture of it.  The white wire is in the box.  Can I use that wire if it is indeed the neutral?

Close up images of inside of box:


texts: How can I avoid cold rooms due to combustion air intake?

texts:
I have a newer split level house (2006) with unfinished basement. The natural gas furnace is on the lower level in a utility room that is also laundry and bathroom. There's an enormous 8 or 10" pipe that serves as combustion air intake just over the furnace, which goes outdoors through a screened hole.

Now that it's become very cold outside (0°F/-17°C tonight) the intake seems to just be cooling off the entire lower level.

The furnace is not in its own enclosed space; it's open to the unfinished laundry/bath room, and the door to the room has a gap of about 1" to the concrete floor. If I stand just in front of the furnace, which is the same location to do laundry (just the opposite direction), the cold draft is noticeable even when the furnace isn't running.

Do I need to enclose the furnace in its own space to avoid this problem, or something else? I understand its purpose, but it seems to counter efficiency.


texts: Can I wire a refrigerator and dishwasher on the same circuit?

texts: Can I wire a refrigerator and dishwasher on the same 20 amp circuit?


texts:
I received a Kenmore upright freezer from a family member. As far as I know, it was working fine for several years. That family member moved and no longer has the space for it, so now we have it!

It has been plugged in for a month. The first three weeks seemed fine, but about a day ago, I opened it up to find quite a bit of frost:
Imgur Album of Frost in Freezer

It is one of those freezers that vacuum seals itself when you close it. Yesterday I noticed ice build up around the latch that you engage when you want to lock it. This to me was interrupting the seal so I cleaned that out. I checked it this morning and it seemed to be the same amount of frost...if not more! Do I need to clean the frost out and see if it re-appears? Might there be other problems? I haven't done the dollar bill test yet.


texts: I need a neat solution for lifting a floor boarded trap door

texts:
I've just had a 'trap door' replaced in a floor boarded floor.

The previous trap door just had a couple of finger holes in it to lift it out, however:

This was not particularly neat
The trap door is a bit too heavy for this to be an easy task.

Now I have the new trap door in place (the floor itself has actually been replaced, hence the new trap door) I'd like to install a better way of lifting the hatch out.

The trap door itself is made of the same floor joists as the surrounding floor and has been floor boarded with the same floor boards as the surrounding floor.

I have looked at marine flush lifting handles, but my concern is that they would need a recess cut into the floor boards to fit them flush (I don't have a router, so it would be a hammer and chisel job!) and they would need to be installed directly over the joists that make up the trap door frame to give a solid enough fixing to lift the weight of the trap door.

I've also considered eye bolts that could be screwed in whenever I need access under the trap door (not very often). I'd need to find some kind of flush mounting nut or something that I could install under the trap door for the eye bolts to screw into, though, and I can't find anything suitable.

Finally I also thought about using manhole lifting keys or similar, and putting some kind of slot in the trap door. The problem then is making it something neat rather than just drilling a hole the correct shape for the keys to slot into.

I'm sure I must be missing something and there must be a better way of doing this.


texts: Is the electrical outlet by my kitchen sink supposed to be protected by a GFCI?

texts:
Aren't all electrical outlets near sinks supposed to have a safety reset switch? This one is for the garbage disposal but also has outlets for electrical equipment. Should I call an electrician or just unplug the night light and can opener?

It doesn't seem up to code like this.


texts:
I am remodeling my kitchen and the wiring that was ran for the cooktop/oven is shown in the included picture; 3 hot, 1 neutral, and a ground. Is it possible to split the 5 wires into two separate circuits, sharing the ground wire? I'd replace the current 3 pole breaker, link below, with 2 separate breakers. Sorry the links are to German webpages but the amperage/volts is easy to find. Thanks for any assistance.

Current Breaker (3 x 16A)
http://www.elektro-wandelt.de/Hager-MBN316-LS-Automat-3polig-B-16A.html

Cooktop (2 x 16A or 1 x 32A) according to Ikea website.

Oven (Minimum required fuse: 13 A) according to Ikea website.


texts: Power tripped whilst drilling a wall. Restores ok, but is it safe?

texts:
Extremely stupid of me I know, but I was hanging a wall clock in the kitchen in a hurry using a corded drill plugged into a socket directly below the clock.

I was drilling slowly through the brick wall when the drill suddenly stopped working, and the RCD on the consumer unit tripped.  I also had the drill plugged in to a circuit breaker.

I'm not sure what or if any damage was done to the wiring as it is buried in the wall, however power restored ok on the CU and socket testers on the socket in question below the drill line light up green.

I'm conscious however that even if all seems ok there could still be an underlying issue which could be dangerous.

I'll have an electrician come in to inspect and test, but in the meantime for my own understanding, I'm just wondering what might have happened given the power seems to have restored ok?   Also would the electrician be able to inspect and safety test from the wires at the socket, or would they need to hack into the brick wall to inspect the cable also?

Again, I know this was majorly stupid, I just want to make sure I now go about making sure everything is safe.

Thanks in advance


texts:
I bought some hanging lights to replace two sets of lights in the kitchen. The hanging lights are controlled by two switches on the wall.
There are two holes in the ceiling that each have a bundle of wires hanging through. These were connected to a 3 terminal block but I disconnected them and don't remember how they were connected.
One has: a blue wire with a brown sleeve; a yellow/green wire; a brown wire; and a blue wire. These four wires were in a single terminal block with 2 lots of 3 openings.
The other hole in the ceiling just has brown, blue and yellow wires.
The lights I want to install just have three wires inside their bases.
I was thinking I should connect the lights to the bundles of wires as follows but I'm not certain.
4 wire bundle:
-Blue wire of the light connected to blue wire of ceiling and blue/brown wire of ceiling by putting three wires in the two holes of a terminal block
-brown wire of light connected to brown of ceiling
-yellow of light connected to yellow of ceiling
3 wire bundle:
Match the blue of ceiling to blue of lamp, yellow of ceiling to yellow of lamp and brown of light to brown of light
Is this right? If not please could you explain why with a circuit diagram. Many thanks


texts:
I have two concentric vent kits I need to poke through the roof.  One is for my furnace and the other for my tankless water heater.  I want to place them near each other for aesthetic reasons, but I cannot find anything in the building codes related to the dos and donts of this.
As I understand it any exterior exhausts should be a minimum of 3ft away from a window - that is no problem.  But is there a minimum distance these concentric vents must be away from each other?  My brain tells me it shouldn't matter as long as they are at the same elevation since they pull fresh air from down and exhaust up - but I worry there is something I am missing code-wise
To be clear - I want to set them about 2ft apart...I just want to make sure I am not in any violation with that choice as it would be extremely difficult to change later


texts: Should I insulate the duct trunk as I finish my basement?

texts:
I'm in the process of finishing my basement and am currently planning out my HVAC. I live in Minnesota so I'm trying to do what I can to maximize heat delivery/retention down there so I don't end up with an uncomfortably cool living space in the winter.
I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to insulate the trunk duct which will be enclosed in a soffit that runs along the middle. I'm also considering the same thing for the branch ducts. Would it be a good idea to insulate those ducts as they run through the floor joists? If so, would it make more sense to only insulate the supply ducts that are delivering to the basement and leave the existing supply ducts for the upper floors uninsulated? Perhaps leaving those ones uninsulated may allow some extra heat to stay in the basement? But, I'm guessing the vast majority of that would just be waste that would just be staying in the interfloor space.
Just hoping to get a sense for what steps may actually be beneficial vs what would be a waste of time/money.


texts:
The corner of my living room (on split level) has drafts coming in via the bottom of the wall and a sump pump well (specifically, a plastic pipe that drains into it). The carpet is damp to the touch, and the carpet tacks are rusty, but there's no liquid water in the sump, even after heavy rain.

FWIW, the rain downpipe extends away a few feet from the house onto a slope (nevertheless, I'm thinking about digging a french drain outside in the spring).

What should I do to seal the corner (on a budget)? On the outside, is the air getting in through the brick? the siding? the porch? the ground? On the inside, is the sump actually doing anything useful? If not, would it be good or bad to cap it with airtight insulation?


texts: Adding an outlet to the dishwasher/disposer circuit

texts:
I have switched garbage disposal, like many people do.  The switch is on a wall w/o any outlets.  I'd like to convert the switch to a switch/outlet combo.  I read that you shouldn't add an outlet to the dishwasher or disposal circuit so I figured I'd ask y'all.

Here are some facts:

The dishwasher is hardwired.
The garbage disposal is corded (not hardwired) and runs to an outlet under the sink.  Nothing else is plugged into that outlet.
I'm not sure if the dishwasher and disposal are on the same circuit.  Or what else is on either circuit.
I'm not sure what the amperage of either circuit is.

Here are my questions:

As a general question, can I add an outlet to the garbage disposal switch?
If yes, what considerations do I need to take into account?  What questions would I need to know the answers to before proceeded?  What would I need to change?
If no, why not?

Thank y'all so much!
Jason


texts: Frozen drain line into septic from furnace

texts:
Last winter the condensation from our high efficiency furnace caused our line to freeze from the floor drain where the water was running into, all the way to the septic. No one was there to flush toilets or run water more than the drips that comes from the furnace. It was below 0 for several days prior to that.

Where do you suggest we run the water from the furnace instead of the floor drain?

The furnace is in the basement and not near an outside wall.


texts: Multiple Dead Outlets, Breaker not tripped

texts:
I am hoping for some help here because this problem is driving me nuts.  A few days ago our outdoor outlets stopping working (we had Xmas lights plugged in).  There is also an outlet in our basement and one in the garage also not working.  I am assuming these are all GFCI protected and on the same circuit.  I cannot for the life of me figure out the problem.  I have reset/checked every GFCI outlet in the house and none of the circuit breakers on the main panel are tripped.
I also took off the outlet plates and checked the wires in each dead outlet with a non-contact test and neither set of wires is hot.  This would indicate the problem is not with the individual outlet correct?
I also checked the line and load sides of the GFCI plugs inside the house and both appear to be functional.
Thanks


texts:
My house is 1920s, New England. its been upgraded and added onto a few times.

2nd floor toilet shut off was leaking.

I cut off the valve as I was unable to safely get a torch on it to un-solder it.

I shut off hot and  cold water to the 2nd floor as the faucet and tub have mixing vales.

The supply ID is 1/2" so I got this  1/2 in. Nominal Compression Inlet x 3/8 in. O.D. Compression Outlet 1/4-Turn Angle Valve

To my horror, the OD of the pipe is 11/16 (maybe brass? older copper?)

As I understand, 1/2" copper is 5/8 OD so my part doesn't fit.

.

What part(s) do I need to button this back up?


texts: How often should I recaulk the ceramic-tiles in my bathrooms and kitchen?

texts:
I'm wondering ow often should I recaulk the ceramic-tiles (with silicone) in my bathrooms and kitchen to prevent any water penetration into the walls?

Thanks!


texts:
I put an Allied Precision Industries 15N water tank heater in a week ago and found that it's shocking the horses.  Used one for 10+ years with no problems so something has changed. We have an old house. It has 100 amp service. The neutral (white) wires and ground wires are on the same and only bar in the main breaker box.  When I test any outlet with a plug in 3 prong tester it reads open ground.   I know this isn't true because I can use a multi tester and read 120 volt when touching the neutral slot or the ground prong hole.

The outside grounding rod was an old galvanized pipe and very corroded.  I replaced it with a new rod and new wire.

Still not sure what's going on.  Are the plug-in testers really reliable or doesn't it work because my wiring system isn't wired for ground fault receptacles?   Thanks.


texts: How can I stop my American Standard Champion toilet from ghost flushing?

texts:
90% certain it's a leaky "flapper" - I left the water turned off for a couple of days while we were out of town and the water level leaked right down to the seal of the flapper.

Here's the problem. It's brand new. I just bought & replaced the thing. But that didn't fix it. So I bought brand new seals. And that still didn't fix it. But I don't have fluid leaking out of anywhere else, just this flapper.

Aside from constantly turning the water off (or sealing the thing with concrete, which I really feel like doing after several months of fighting this thing), is there a way that I can get this thing to stop ghost flushing?


texts: how to identify and correctly wire a new light

texts: if there is a copper ground wire currently hanging down, can I just marry it and cap it together to the silver grounding wire that the new light came with??


texts: Can I wire up a 353W projector with a 25W track light?

texts:
So I have a 25ft 16AWG power extension cord running up to my projector which draws 353W.

I want to add a two outlet plug to the female end of the extension cord near the projector and get one outlet for an ikea tracklight which has sockets for 5 GU10 bulbs(I plan to install 4 or 5W led bulb in each).

Is there any problem with my existing setup and will there be any problem with what I plan to do?

The tracklight is designed to be a ceiling mounted fixture not a plug-in lamp. May be this is another question: I can't access any wiring behind walls, so can I wire up this fixture using a 3 prong extension and connect it to a wall outlet?


texts: How do I install a coat rack on drywall over concrete?

texts:
Ok, here's the problem. I have a coat rack that was installed poorly by the previous owner, who firstly installed it upside down and then secondly didn't use any drywall mounts. It came right out of the wall. I purchased some toggle bolts and some dry wall anchors only to discover what I believe is concrete behind the drywall (the back side of the wall is the elevator shaft).

Given that I cannot damage the concrete (it belongs to the condo's common property), and all of the drywall hangers I've seen are either too long or rely on the backside of the drywall being open, is there any way to mount the coat rack safely?

Any attachment should probably be able to take at least 50 lbs of weight, given I live in Canada and it will be holding up to five winter coats, mitts, hats, scarfs and it has a shelf above it where I occassionally put books and the like. Also the coat rack only has two holes for screws.


texts: Right transfer switch for connecting small generator to a 100amp service?

texts:
I got a little 3,300 generator for Christmas, and I'm looking at transfer switches so I can plug it into my house.
I won't be able to power the whole home, but even limited power is better than no power. I'm going for as simple of a setup as I can get away with.
Currently I'm looking at getting this:

I have a 100Amp service in my house. I'm wondering if I should pay the extra money for a 100Amp switch incase I get a larger generator down the road, or if the 60Amp switch will be sufficient for the 30amps my generator can put out.
Also curious about the 30amp rating on power inlet. Can't seem to find anything more than 30amp.
Is a 30amp inlet going to be sufficient for a 60 or 100amp transfer switch?

More Details (as requested)
Manual pdf: https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/Documents/84/842/8422/8422560_manualhb_00_01_v01_manuel_enfr.pdf


texts: While my daughter was showering upstairs, one of my downstairs toilets started flooding with hot water coming from underneath the toilets. It flooded my bathroom n living room. Then in the master bathroom someone flushed the toilet and it flooded over and I notice that in the shower it had water coming up from the drain. What could the problem be?


texts: Do flexible braided hoses have a shelf life if stored unused?

texts:
As far as I know, their components are the EDPM/nitrile rubber inner tube, the stainless steel fittings/crimping at either end (possibly a plastic push-fit connector) and the stainless steel braid.

Provided they are stored correctly, I suspect the stainless steel components would not be an issue, but how about the rubber tubing? Does the rubber become brittle if left unused?

Is there any point beyond which you would no longer consider them safe for use?


texts: How do you replace a section of cast iron drain pipe?

texts:
circa 1929, Boston

The kitchen sink connects to cast iron inside the wall. Just below the connection the section of vertical cast iron pipe is rotten and leaking. A couple of feet above it ties into the vent and right below it connects into a hub, part of a ginormous cast iron fitting that has the  4" stack, the outlet to the WC, a, vent for the WC, a Y out to the tub/lav: 6 connections in one fitting. It looks good, doesn't seem to have any of the rot.

Why is it rotten? Does it bode ill for the rest of the system?

I plan on cutting it out from above the kitchen TY to the hub below. It's kind of tight for any type of cutter. Is there a particularly good sawzall blade for this? Any tricks on getting the pipe out of the hub below? What is the best way unpack the fitting. What do I repack it with; can you still even get lead?


texts: Installing a sub panel to a GE split bus panel

texts:
I want to install a sub panel to my GE split bus panel. The diagram indicates that I could replace the two full sized 2-pole breakers (2 inch wide each) on the upper left with three compact 2-pole breakers (1 inch wide each). The diagram indicates that this is not an option on the top right.

I would use 30 A and two 40 A compact 2-pole breakers for the dryer, a/c condensing unit, and the range. I would use the existing 50 A breaker on the top right for the sub panel, unless I should go larger.

EDIT
On the right from top the 120 V branch circuits are: 15 A -- bdrm 2,3,4 E. wall receptacles, 2 closets single bulbs, 20 A (switched off) for dishwasher but not installed, 20 A garage receptacle, lights, door opener, 20 A ceiling fans, lights, 20 A GFCI kitchen counter, 20 A clothes washer, 20 A refrigerator and 1 kitchen receptacle not near sink


texts:
I'm upgrading the electrical service to my cottage from 100A meter pan to 200A as per the power company's requirement.  I am installing the hardware myself--meter pan, weather-pole, wire, etc.
I plan to use 4/0 4/0 4/0 aluminum SEU wire from weather head down and out of the bottom of the pan into the structure. My question is:

Can I use SEU wire (the acronym is Service Entry Underground), and I wasn't sure if it can be used "overhead".

One of the conductors is "striped".  What does the stripe mean? Does it have to be connected a certain way to the power company's twisted pair?


texts: Flush the toilet and I hear gurgling in my shower

texts: When I flush the toilet the shower gurgles. Could this be because the shower hasn't been used in about 2 years? Also I hear it when I flush my toilet at the other end of the house in the same shower.


texts: What size beam should be used for a 15' patio cover span?

texts:
I'm looking into building a covered patio and am having a bit of difficulty finding the proper beam size required for the spans between posts.

The cover will consist of either a ledger board attached to the exterior wall (pending structural review) OR beams on the new patio slab leading to a 15' span away from the house to 6x6 posts on galvanized anchor brackets at the other end of the slab. The patio will be 30ft. wide and 15ft. deep, but this can be adjusted if it significantly cuts down on lumber to do 14ft spans or so. So, either 6 posts in a 3x2 grid or 3 posts and a ledger board.

I live in North Texas where snow is extremely rare (maybe once a year with a couple inches). Will match roof pitch to my home (looks like a 3:12 or 4:12). I can add knee braces. Post height will be 8ft.

Wood species has not been chosen, but pressure-treated pine would be nice as I can easily source posts with that too.

This link seems to indicate I would need 3.5x11.25 #2 PT beams. I'm not sure if I'm using the right tables or not, hence my question here. It seems to me that two 2x12s with a 1/2 plywood along the grain sandwiched in-between would be more than suitable judging by some of the new construction I've seen around here. That sound right?

I would really like to figure out what would be required now so that I can figure out a rough estimate of the project cost and decide if I want to proceed with it. Otherwise, I would have just hired a structural engineer to define them for me already.

Here's an example of what I'm looking at creating. Only the ledger would attach to a two-story wall. I know a 4x6 beam likely wouldn't be sufficient and I'll have more stout 2x10 joists at the recommended spacing for the span (24" on center).


texts: The hot water hose came free from the washer last night. Do I need to replace the inlet valve? Is this a simple thing to do?


texts: What type of wood should I purchase and how do I give it the shape I want?

texts: I want to refurbish a metal folding chair with seat and back cushions. The wood base for the seat and back cushion are in very bad condition and I have to replace them. I was thinking about using plywood for the seat base since the original one is flat. The back cushion base is curved though and I don't know what material to use to replace it.... The original looks like compressed wood. Is that what you recommend? How do I give it the curve I need? Thanks!


texts: How long does concrete need to cure before applying self leveling compound?

texts:
How long after pouring a thin layer of concrete (sand topping between .5 - 2" depth) should I wait before leveling with self-leveling compound?
I'm mostly concerned that it should be done shrinking/altering shape more than it reaching some sort of maximum strength.  This is an interior floor where I'm adding more concrete on top of an existing slab so it's going on a solid base and not supporting weights like cars.
Background:  I have a large room with concrete floor that had a lot of low spots.  I'm pouring concrete where the dips are deep enough then will finish with SLC.  My concrete skills are too weak to just do concrete well enough for me to trust not needing to then level.  It's excess work, but saving thousands vs. doing just SLC.


texts: I have a garage that used to be a carport. Therefore the ceiling, clad with stucco, is not insulated. Do I need to pull down the stucco to properly have a vapour barrier when I insulate? or is the stucco enough of a vapour barrier?


texts: Narrow conduit (old building), need to run 2xhots, 1xneutral

texts:
Currently I have two wires running through the conduit: one hot (coming from box), and one hot switched (on/off according to light switch).
I would like to convert it to an outlet switch combo (one outlet with a switch).
So, I need to run one more wire, the neutral, to power the outlet.

The existing wires are old so I've removed them.

What wires should I use? THHN? What number (gauges), I'd say 12 is the suggested for outlets? Solid or stranded?

I mistakenly bought a 12/3 romex cable, which is too thick to run through the conduit. My understanding is that I can't strip the yellow plastic sheath that covers the wires, and just use the black, red and white wires, correct? Because I believe they don't have enough protection against damage. Correct?

What would be the right wire for this job?

The old wire had some textile/cotton on the outside, and it seems this is no longer used. What was this cable for, and why it seems no longer used?

Any help is appreciated!


texts: Inverter air-conditioning units or non-inverter air-conditioning units?

texts:
I want to purchase new 8-9 units of air-conditioning for my new house. For the hall, kitchen and all the bedrooms.

Some people say inverter air-conditioning is only suitable if you are using more than 8 hours per day. Then only it saves energy.

I am aware that when you switch the air-conditioning is best to set the temperature at 24 or 25 degree Celsius. Not at 16 degree Celsius. Because the compressor will work at full capacity.

Let's say in my new house I set the temp at 24-25 degree Celsius. But if don't use it often. Use less than 8 hours per day.

My question is it worth it to buy inverter air-conditioning ?

Second question is inverter air-conditioning the future technology for HVAC? If yes then maybe I should invest in one.


texts:
I am missing my jumper wire on my thermostat. What do I replace it with?

I have been researching how to fix it.


texts: Eliminating a 3 way switch in a 3 gang outlet

texts:
I want to use some smart switches and wanted to eliminate the use of 3 way switch in a 3 gang outlet. Can you please walk me through which wires to connect and which ones to cap.

Switch 1 - three way switch which operates with another three way switch upstairs --> this is the one i want to eliminate. I may put the a smart switch at the junction at the top of the box if this is possible.

Switch 2 - single pole switch that controls main entrance light --> this is where I have a smart switch

Switch 3 - single pole switch that controls outside light --> this is where i have another smart switch

When i opened up the box - all the neutrals were packed together. I have split them up and connected them together for switch 2 and switch 3 to work (which it does).

I also noticed that one of the black wires ran through each of the switches originally. I have now separated them between the 2 smart switches and the 1 dumb switch.

Currently, the three way switch does not work.

My question is - can i have a 1 dumb three way switch with 2 smart switches. Also, can all the neutrals be connected together to complete the circuit?

I am open to replacing the three way switch to a single pole that is simply controlled from upstairs.

Thank you.


texts: LED light with built-in switch; installing auto-timer between switch & outlet,

texts:
LED aquarium light (a bar with many small bulbs) with manual switch built into cord; Customer requested automatic timer. Placed automatic timer between LED's plug & wall outlet. Functioned well for 2 months. Now, when the timer clicks to ON, the LED won't light fully: one end of the LED light's bar glows, but the rest is dark.    BUT...

If I switch the built-into-cord switch off & on, the LED lights up! ??

If I remove the timer, the in-line switch & light function normally.

I plugged an incandescent light into the timer and the timer functions normally.

Any ideas?


texts:
The house which I rent and am living
in has a kitchen on the first floor,
where there is a window facing the
yard with its lower half covered by
security bar and screen, like this one .

Is it safe
to keep the lower half window open
at night during sleep?

The top looks like not easy to be
pulled down.  Is the top half window
usually fixed to the top of the window?

I am hesitating to close and lock
the window, because if the window is
closed during the night, I feel the
air in the first floor especially near the
kitchen will become a little worse
gradually. I guess maybe it is
because the gas normally  leaks a
little from the range, and the
pilot fire is kept on?

So shall I close the window for
safety or keep it open for air? Note that except during the coldest day, we don't turn on the central air system.
For window of bedrooms on
the second floor, do people usually close them
at night during sleep for safety?
I was wondering if the security bar
usually only cover the lower-half of
a window,
and if it is enough or covering the
whole window will be a better
choice?

For reference, I am living in a city in the United States, where safety is usually a concern.


texts: What should be used between a concrete tub and wall tile?

texts:
I have an older home that has a large, decorative concrete bathtub/shower with tiled enclosure walls. The walls behind the tile and tub are poured concrete. (Yes, the house is very sturdily built.)

I am refurbishing this area, and when I started removing the (very) old caulk between the tub and the tiled walls, I found that the tile had actually been grouted completely down to the tub; there is no expansion joint. In a way, this makes sense, because all of these materials (concrete tub, concrete walls, tile and grout) have about the same thermal coefficient of expansion so there is no need for an expansion joint.

I'm not seeing any cracking or separation that would indicate an expansion mismatch, and the grout looks to be in excellent shape (considering its age), although it looks like in places it has softened behind the caulk. I'm thinking that this is probably because the caulk, as it has aged, has allowed water to be trapped behind it, against the grout, for extended periods. My feeling is that this was originally not intended to be caulked, but that someone caulked it at some point because, well, this is a place that is usually caulked.

Is it okay (maybe even preferable) to have the grout only, or does this angle between the tub and the tiled walls need to be caulked? Water does not stand there; it gets wet for brief periods during showers. This is in Albuquerque, New Mexico, where the humidity is almost always low, so it has no problem drying off fairly quickly.

Addition on 12-10-16:

The photos are of about an 18 inch section.

This is an indoor fixture (master bedroom's bath), so it is not subject to extremes of temperature, etc. The green tiles you see in the pictures are glassy, different shades of green, 1000s of them in all, that have been fairly precisely grouted in with a grey grout to make a kind of abstract under the water scene on the walls. As I say, the grout extends to the decorative concrete tub; there is no open space.

Looking at some of the edges, it does appear that the tub itself extends significantly back behind the tile surface. As you can see, the tile is worked essentially down to the tub; however, there are very thin sections of grout between those lowest tile pieces and the tub.

I had forgotten to mention another important point, which is that when I was removing the caulk, it was adhered strongly to many of the tiles (there is no possible way one could caulk this junction without getting caulk on the lowest tiles) and wanted to peel flakes off the tile faces. I proceeded very carefully once I realized this, slow and tedious hand work scraping the caulk off every little tile, so it wouldn't take flakes with it. Even so, there was some flaking.  These tiled walls are so unique, I really don't want to do something that could cause additional damage. Caulk seems to be problematical.


texts: Will it affect the water pressure if a 3/4" meter is installed on a 1 1/2" water line?

texts:
We have a 1.5" water main line coming into our house (inside the house piping is 3/4" or less).   We are on a small private water district and the administrator of the well district wants to put in a 3/4 inch meter by cutting into the 1.5" main line.  Is that going to affect the pressure and the water flow into the house?   What are the negative implications of doing this?  The total distance from the pump house to the house is over 1500 ft long.

Thanks all for the great feedback. Very helpful. Appreciate it. Confirms my stance that the meter should be of equivalent size.

They were originally talking about putting the meter at the entrance to our property which is about 500 yards away. We discovered there are lot of utilities including gas lines in that area. Now they are proposing to install the meter where the pump and water tank is located (over 1500' away). It is community well with about 15 or so houses connected to the well. Ours is the longest from the pump house.


texts: Running building wire across 2x4s of drop ceiling

texts:
Just bought a house built in 1902. I want to add a new light fixture in the dining room that requires running 12/2 cable to it since there is no existing fixture.

From putting an endoscope in the ceiling it looks like a drop ceiling was added at some point (I think?). It also looks like there is a gap between the 2x4s and the original ceiling.

(from top to bottom - original ceiling, gap, 2x4, sheetrock)

Obviously, it would be easiest to run the wire for my light fixture in the gap rather than drill holes through the 2x4s.

So, my question is - can I run the wire in this gap or do I need to drill holes through the 2x4s? Will I be violating any codes by running the wire through the gaps of the drop ceiling?