texts: How can I immobilise a non-T&G subfloor?

texts:
I'm building an 8x10 freestanding office shed. I used 2.5 sheets of non-T&G 3/4" plywood for the subfloor (I know this was not a good call but there's a plywood shortage in my area). I glued it down with PL400 and screwed it to the joists (most are spaced 16" and the rest are 12"). However all the seams fall halfway between joists, since I unthinkingly placed the half-sheet on the wrong side (I've been kicking myself over it ever since!).
I've already put foam insulation between the joists and it would be extremely challenging to add more joists from underneath.
I'm worried about movement and the edges "sawing" together. The floor will eventually be covered with T&G pine.
How can I keep the plywood from flexing? I'm thinking of cutting the edges of the plywood back to the joists and replacing them with 16" wide pieces of plywood. I would have 2 seams for every 1 seam but at least they'd fall on joists.
Buying T&G plywood is unfortunately not an option.


texts: Garage door seal is glued and I want to replace it

texts: My garage door doesn't seem to have the plate that you see in new doors these days where you can slide the rubber seal. Mine is hard glued at the bottom and side of the door. Does anyone know a way to removing this glued seal and installing a new plate that allows me to slide the seal instead? I don't want to glue a new one on.


texts: A/C circuit breaker blowing after 15 minutes of runtime

texts:
20 year old Amana 3.5 ton runs for 15 minutes and then blow circuit breaker on the main panel in the house. Condenser fans running compressor is running sweating making cold air. Help.

EDIT

Two 40amp breakers toggled together one of them gets hot when it pops that breaker automatically pops the one that's connected to. This unit has run flawlessly for 20 years. It's a Square D panel with Square D breakers

I believe 22amp ZRCF42U01D MOD#


texts: Dryer cross-wired - loud pop and no longer works?

texts:
We were changing our dryer from a 4-prong to a 3-prong cord and my husband accidentally put the center wire on one of the other terminals. He plugged it in and ran the dryer for a few minutes, then turned it off, and as he was preparing to push the dryer into its place against the wall, there was a loud pop and the faint smell of smoke. He immediately unplugged the dryer and, upon closer inspection, realized his mistake. But when he corrected the wiring, the dryer would no longer work. We know it's not the circuit breaker as we plugged in the landlord's dryer and it's been running fine.

It's a Kenmore Elite HE dryer purchased in 2004. I replaced the heating element a few years ago and it's been going strong up until now. I'd really like to repair this dryer if at all possible. It's old but has been very dependable. But I'm not sure where to even start? (I'm not super handy either but I like to try.)


texts: How do I remove this bolt from my bedframe?

texts:
This is my first time posting in this forum but I wanted to get some help from y'all regarding removing a bolt from my bed frame. I bought a used bed frame and I need to dismantle it to shift it into my room. Here is an image of the bolt.

Could you please tell me what tools I would need to remove this screw (the silver nut on the left) as well as how I should go about doing it. Thank you, I really appreciate the help from this community :)


texts: Electrical wiring in ceiling junction box

texts:
I removed a light fixture in ceiling and trying to install ceiling fan. When I removed fixture I see 4 sets of wires in box and trying to figure out how to connect fan.

Three of the black wires are pigtailed to one of the white wires. All the grounds are connected together. This leaves 3 white wires that were together and a single black wire.

I did not take a picture but thought old fixture had white wire connected to 3 other white wires and black wire connected to single black wire, leaving the set of 3 black and single white pigtailed as was.

When I connect my blue and black fan wire to single black and white fan wire to 3 white wires (and ground to ground) fan does not work and circuit trips in breaker box.

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong or need to test (if I need to go and get a meter to do some testing).

Any help is much appreciated.


texts: Is it difficult to work around cellulose installation?

texts:
I am a new house owner since July of 2014. I bought a 50 year old house with good bones and a great opportunity to flip it.

My attic has a pathetic R5 insulation at the moment. Being a young home owner and this being my first house, I was eligible for a government grant. They pay the materials as long as I do all the work. This being said, the work needs to be done right or else I don't get a cent!

My first concern is all the wiring in the attic. How hard does cellulose become when it's 'dried'? Does it stay mushy and malleable or does it become like polyurethane and get solid as a rock? I will need to go back into the attic some day and start rewiring a couple things, will this be easily doable with cellulose all over the place?

Secondly, I have no roof vents or anything. The only thing coming out of my roof is my chimney. I have no bathroom fans, kitchen fans, nothing. How hard will it be to install this after the cellulose is done?


texts: Replacing pressure switch for my water pump

texts: I have to drain the pressure tank when I replace the pressure switch. When I do this can I install a shut off valve just below the pressure switch? This would allow me to change it in future years and avoid draining the tank.


texts: Over-the-range Microwave on small-appliance branch circuit

texts: Either there is conflicting information or a lack of when it comes to this question. Is it allowed in NEC code to permit an over-the-range microwave to run off of one of the small-appliance branch circuits?


texts: How much can concrete form tube protrude above the ground?

texts:
I want to build a shed foundation. I will be using these concrete tubes.

The area where it will be installed is kinda shallow and gets muddy in the spring. This is why I want these tubes to be above ground level to some extent. Does anyone know how much are they allowed to be above ground? Is there a building code for that? Location is Connecticut.


texts:
I removed a traditional water heater with 1" fittings and 3/4" pex to and from it with a on demand heater that has 1/2" fittings.

So I currently have 3/4" pex to the heater with 1/2" fittings.  I have noticed a significant decrease in flow to the shower.  Is there an easy way to resolve this?

thanks


texts: Electrical hum noise from shower fan electrics box

texts:
I had a shower fan installed about 8 months ago, a vent axia low carbon with timer on light switch. The separate small plastic box that contains all the wiring separate to the fan makes an electrical humming / buzzing sound, my electrician has said he can't hear it and didn't seem very concerned, he's very good and reliable normally.

But it's very audible in the silence of the bathroom when nothing else is on, it doesn't to buzz when the plastic front casing of the box wasn't fixed on and the wires were loose, it was like this for several weeks whilst wiring and partition ceiling was being finished. Surely the wires simply being pushed a little tighter into the box to fix on the front and close it shouldn't make it hum and buzz? What could this mean? Is it dangerous?


texts:
Okay, so i'm dying in a Texas Heat Wave and trying to figure out what to do. My Central AC unit went down and it's 1,500 to fix, and i don't have that.
I have an old AC Unit from my old house, and i was wondering if i could do this.

Picture:

Black lines is the house itself, blue lines are the "entry room", which is a Bar that leads to the outside world, red is the garrage that connects to the Bar (but not the house).

There are no windows except sliding glass windows.

My idea is to put my AC unit in the doorway with the back facing into the Bar and hang a sheet over the AC so the hot air goes into the Bar, and the cool air goes into the house.

Will this work?

I also don't want to burn out my old ac unit.


texts: Our A/C is turned off but we still get cold air coming out of the vent diffusers. This is from our downstairs unit. Is that a problem?


texts: What should I do about deck footings near the house?

texts:
I was going to build a free standing deck at the back of my house.  The first set of footings would be 1'9" from the concrete basement/foundation for the house.  The house is a new construction built one year ago.

reading this site: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/top-10-deck-building-mistakes.aspx it says

  To install deck piers properly, the piers must bear on undisturbed soil and, depending on the region, be set below the frost line. This could mean the need for 3-ft.-deep footings in some areas. However, if the piers are in a backfill region, as is the case with piers nearest the house on a freestanding deck, the footing depth may have to be as deep as 10 ft. to reach undisturbed soil and to comply with code.

I am now worried that these footings may be less stable.  Our area requires 18in diameter footings, 30 inches deep.

Some people on this site suggested against using a ledger if possible.  The deck is only 3'6" feet above the ground.


texts: What are the pros and cons of Owens Corning shingles vs. GAF shingles?

texts: I am looking to get a new roof for my house. I have taken quotes from about 4 contractors and 3 of them are suggesting I should use GAF shingles. 1 suggests that Owens Corning is a better shingle and I should use that. I am really new in this field and not sure which material to go for? Does it matter which material I choose or are these both good shingles and which one I use does not matter?


texts: Old diamond metal lath plaster ceiling strength for supporting heavy loads?

texts:
I am an avid DIYer and have been renovating a space in an old commercial space from the 1950s.  It is a hodge-podge of various building materials over the years. In our space is, from what I gathered from searching, the ceiling is a suspended diamond metal lath plastered ceiling like this:

I have been hanging lighting fixtures and ceiling fans using metal toggle bolts like these:

They seem to work fine.  There used to be a grid drop ceiling attached to the plaster ceiling and they used similar toggle bolts with an eyelet on the end to attach the wire from the grid to the ceiling, so I know it can support one of those grid systems with the Styrofoam panels if the weight is distributed, but I can't imagine that is a lot of weight.
Unfortunately, I don't have access above the lath plaster ceiling to access the metal joists. What I would like to do is install a bar that would allow TRX bands and/or punching bags to be hung.  Obviously, this would need to support a lot of dynamic weight.

This shows something like I had in mind.  Mine would be longer and need to support 8-10 people using it at the same time with the suspension bands.  I was also considering a "T" in the middle with another support to the ceiling.
Is this crazy?  If I distributed the weight across a long span (2x4, 2x6, etc), would this work. I would use the snap toggle bolts which support 150lbs and I would use one every 12-18 inches (no science there, just want to go overkill) across the wooden beam in to the metal lath.  I'd then attach the pipe to that beam, similar to the picture.
If this won't work, any suggestions short of opening up the ceiling and seeing where the metal joists are?  I don't think I will have that as an option.
Thanks!


texts: Can a main breaker box be bonded at the meter box?

texts: Im trying to add a subpanel to my main breaker box, I know that on a subpanel neutral bus and ground must not be bonded, but looking inside the main panel I don't see where the neutral and ground bars are bonded, also this panel does not have connection to a ground rod, the ground rod connection it's coming out of the meter box, Its this ok? can the neutral to ground bonding be inside the meter box? , thanks in advance for the help!


texts: Do I have to turn off the main water supply to replace tub/shower faucets & screws?

texts: My enclosed shower/tub combo hot water knob just spins & won't turn the water on...I popped the front cover open to tighten the screw only to find that it is stripped (my son had being turning it on/off like this for some time but failed to tell me!) Can I just change out the stripped screw & knob with new ones without turning off the main water supply? I've got the needed materials, I just have no access to the back of the shower  & not sure if I remove the stripped screw & faucet without turning water off first, will it spray a fountain of water into my face or will it be ok ? Thank you for any help or advice. I'm pretty handy with most home repairs, just haven't done too much plumbing by myself & have nobody to ask.


texts: General question: Adding Wifi switches to late 90s home

texts:
I'm looking to swap some legacy 1-gang light-switches on our second floor seem to tasmota-friendly gosund switches. Unfortunately, the wiring seems consistent with the other room of no neutral/ground on the switch itself. As such, can we generalize the guidance from the other thread linked below:

Swap Yellow Wire Nut on Neutral to Red Nut for Neutral
Swap Yellow Wire Nut on Ground to Red Nut for Ground

If all the rooms follow this pattern - anything I should keep an eye out for ?
Thank you in advance.
P.S.  Thank you to everyone who provided insight regarding the 2-gang switch. Physical dimension of the cut in the tile have prevented this from actually going ahead although hopefully the holidays will remediate that... Original question here.


texts: Paint drying time around doors and windows that have condensation

texts:
I am currently redecorating the hallway and stairs and at the front door and landing window we get quite a heavy amount of condensation build up around them.

When painting I have noticed that the area's nearest the window and door frames are still wet to the touch. The areas where previously glossed but I sanded them down with 40 grit and after feeling the area they where keyed up and looked to be gloss free.

Is it just taking longer to dry due to the cold/wet air that are around the window and door? Would pointing a blow heater aid in the drying process to speed it up a bit and actually let it dry?

Cheers
Mark


texts: Clarification on NEC requirements for Fixtures ( Danger )

texts:
I've recently had a problem with 2 of my ceiling mount light fixtures in the kitchen that were both on dimmer switches ( 2 different models of switches ) I had to replace 3 lights ( incandescent ) in 3 months which I found odd, So i removed the first fixture and found that the white wire was black and crunchy, So i checked the fixture across from it on a separate Dimmer switch and also a separate 15A circuit with 14/2 wire and it was also black.

Most people would jump to saying It's the resistance of the wire that's causing the high heat or you have a hairline short. All the connections were very secure, and the socket was still in new condition and had tight connections on the pop rivets and in the corn ties ( socket was rated up to 660 Watts 250 Volts with 18 Gauge wire rated for 60 C Minimum )

So then i checked the power coming in at the fixture and from Ground to Common I got 120 Volts and from Neutral to Common i got 120 Volts So i thought could it be the dimmer switch, What are the chances of 2 different dimmer switches on 2 different circuits heating up the fixtures just in the kitchen, Because i removed all of the other fixtures around the house that are the exact same and there's no heat issue with them, They're also on normal switches

So it had to be the switch, right !

I replaced both switches with normal on/off 14 A simple switches and both fixtures for safety and i took apart the switch itself to look for any arching, On one of the dimmer switches what looked like an orange capacitor was burnt and arching, but the 2nd switch on the 2nd circuit was fine, So really I'm lost at this point and sort of worried about a fire even though i changed the parts

I think It's probably best to change the white wire that has turned brown also  for safety but i came across some forums that say "NEC" Doesn't allow "NM Romex wire" So what sort of 14/2 wire is used and allowed for light fixtures, Also any insight on why a wire would heat up like this even though i was getting 120V and had tight connections with newer sockets would be much appreciated, as a final note: I though maybe because it was a dome light fixture with 2 lights in each fixture, and the fact that we kept it on all night that, that would heat up the wire, But i tried a 9 Watt Dimmable led light and it got hot pretty quick, These are the type of lights that are suppose to stay cool if I'm not mistaken, Our house was built in 1982

https://www.fs.fed.us/database/acad/elec/greenbook/3_basicdesigns.pdf

Similar light fixture to ours

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-13-in-2-Light-Brushed-Nickel-Flushmount-with-Frosted-Glass-Shade-2-Pack-EFG8012A-BN/202064742


texts: Do I need to finish or top coat oil-based stain so that it doesn't rub off on a bed?

texts:
I built a headboard out of 1x4 common boards and stained them with Minwax  Wood Finish Honey Oil-Based Interior Stain. Since the finished product will be in close contact to bed sheets, pillows, etc. - I want to make sure that the stain will not rub off on the bedding. Do I need to further finish the wood with a finish/top coat or similar product to protect my bedding?

The headboard itself is rough/rustic and I'm not interested in protecting the headboard itself from elements per say, I'm interested in protecting the bedding.


texts: I have a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan and light kit.  When I turn on the light, it starts out bright, but then in a second it dims.  It doesn't turn off, it just dims.  What could be causing this to happen?


texts: My concrete is brittle like the density of a cookie

texts:
I've started making some small decorative concrete objects. Like trays, potters, table legs, etc.
But recently my pours all go straight to the garbage bin.
The problem (or the symptom) is that the poured concrete breaks by looking at it, it breaks like a cookie, that soft.
The concrete that I used is bought, about, 8 months ago. It's translated called extra strong concrete mix. It has a water/mix ratio of 1,8/2 Liters per 20 Kg Mix. But since I use small amounts I've scaled it down to 0,09/0,1L per 1Kg.
Here are some of my thoughts and more detail:

In most molds I use black pigments. Could I over do it with the ratio and make it brittle?
I've got 60Kg of ~8 months concrete mix. Could it be old? I do have to crush big chunks from the bag.
Since I don't use the entire bag, and I work my way down the bag, could it be the cement is in top and sand in the bottom? Resulting in not getting a good mix scooping it out of the bag?
I've tried bigger and smaller water ratios. (the ration mentioned on the bag was way too little. It made it a bit wetter than damp sand.

Any tips are more than welcome :)


texts: I am building a laundry room in the basement. Do I need a drain?

texts:
I am finishing a basement with a laundry room in it.

Do I need a drain over there?

The floor for the laundry will be tile.


texts: Why would the cold feed be backfeeding hot on a hot water heater?

texts: The cold line is "upfeeding" hot. Both of the pipes running out of the hot water heaters(dual system) are hot. When we run the hot, it gets cold again. The cold feed pipe is hot until it reaches the T where it first splits from the main feed. Have had 2 plumbing companies out and nothing. All singke handle faucets and showers are off.


texts: Can I mount 3 blades on a 5 blade ceiling fan?

texts:
In my son's bedroom I currently have a standard five-blade ceiling fan. We are currently changing the decorating motif in his room to "airplanes". I thought it would be really cool to change the ceiling fan to look like a propeller. I have found a vintage three-blade imitation propeller that will fit on the current brackets.

The new blades will be roughly the same length and weight as the old ones, and I will mount them equally spaced (not just using three of the five original mounts), so I do not expect any issue there. So, my only concern would come from having "not factory standard".

Will it be safe to only mount the 3 blades on the 5 blade system?


texts:
When I open the kitchen and bathroom cold faucets, I notice that hot water flows out for about 2-3 mins before turning cold. Once the tap runs cold, I have to wait ~1 hour before experiencing this water issue again.
When all the water valves in my unit are open, I find that the cold water laundry pipe leading towards my washing machine feels very hot and my main water pipe feels warm. I have tried turning off the Symmons washing machine valve in the laundry room and this seems to stop the water crossover issue. I have talked to both a plumber who says the issue is from the washing machine (Blomberg brand) and a washing machine repair technician who says it cannot be the washing machine as I experience no leaks and my wash cycle seems to run correctly.
Is is possible that the Symmons washing machine valve can cause hot water to flow into the cold pipe or is the issue related to the inlet valves or mixing valves of the washing machine and who should I call to fix this issue?
There are no issues when I try the hot water taps - I get hot water pretty much instantly. I have had plumbers check the faucets to the shower, bathroom sink and kitchen as well as the pipes to the dishwasher and they said these are fine.


texts:
Quick question: I'm trying to fix my toilet that is running slowly but continuously. The weird part is if you hold the handle down for like three or four seconds when you flush, it stops running. I replaced the flapper valve 2 years ago, but this just started 3 months ago. I checked it for cleanliness and pliability. Still good.

Any ideas on how to fix this?


texts: Can a motion sensor switch be installed as part of a pair of switches?

texts:
I have a switch to my hallway by my garage. The other switch is by my stairs. I have had a motion sensor on the switch by the garage for about 15 years and it worked fine.
It finally broke so I replaced it and now the new one will not work. I cannot even use the manual switch to turn it on and off.

I bought a cheaper one (about $17) whereas the previous one was around $30. Is it possible that some switches are not designed to be part of a pair? How can I tell? I don't mind getting the $30 one, but I wanted to be sure.

The behavior is that if I use the non-sensor switch, I can turn the lights on and off in the normal fashion. But the motion sensor switch just acts like it doesn't work, no matter what position the other switch is in. I do see the blinking blue light telling me the motion sensor switch is working, but it doesn't. I have double-checked the both wires and the ground. All are connected solidly.

Am I wasting time? Are some switched just not designed to work in pairs?


texts: How can I fix low water pressure in one shower?

texts:
I am experiencing low water pressure in one shower on the second story in my condo. The water heater is on the first floor. The shower downstairs has good water pressure. Every sink and toilet seem to have good water pressure too. Neither shower has a bathtub faucet. Both faucets are single handle.

I have tried the following:

1) Removed the shower head from both showers. Water pressure is significantly lower coming out of the pipe upstairs than it is downstairs.

2) Switched the cartridges between the showers. Performance for both showers did not change.

I have limited access to the rough-in valve, but can't access any of the pipes unless I remove drywall.

Additionally I have noticed that there is intermittent vibration in the pipe when turning the faucet from cold to hot. The handle starts pointed downward, and the vibration starts when the handle is about 90 degrees counter clockwise. The vibration stops if I continue to turn it all the way to 180 degrees, and turn it slightly harder at the end.

I'm not sure if these two problems are related or not.

Any ideas on what may be occurring here?


texts: Should I pour a footing and pier at the same time?

texts:
I am pouring concrete for deck footings.  I need an 18in diameter footing to carry the weight, and I will also use a 8 in diameter pier to bring it to an inch above ground.  The footing must be 30 in below ground and 8 in thick.  I am going to use a soil form for the footing (the hole I dig) and a sono tube for the pier.

Should I pour the footing and the concrete in one pour?  I worry that the concrete in the sonotube will sink down and fill the 18 in hole while it sets, or is concrete thick enough to not worry about this?  Or should I pour the footing, and then once set pour the pier.  If I go this route I'll set one L shaped rebar in the footing to give support to the pier.  Will an overnight set be enough?

If it matters I'll be mixing the concrete myself in an electric mixer.


texts: How do I replace bolts for my toilet that were concreted into the original flange?

texts: This is a pic of one of the bolts. But I don't see a channel for it to turn/slip out of. The toilet I bought needs longer bolts.


texts: Fixing porcelain sink with crack and rusting drain

texts:
Is there a way for me to fix this sink that has a crack and a rusting drain without replacing the sink?

The vanity is built around the sink. I don't know if I can get a similar sink and I don't want to touch the custom built vanity.


texts: Footing for 4x8 swingset beam and playhouse

texts:
I am building a playhouse with swingset attaching to it. One side of the swingset beam (4x8x12) will be A-frame. The other side is attaching to the playhouse. I have a question about attaching to the playhouse though. Is it OK to put 4x8 beam directly on top of 4x4? I am planning to have the swingset to be 7.5 feet high max. So if I get 4x4x10, can I bury 2.5 feet of the 4x4 post into concrete?

I want to do something similar to this http://myoutdoorplans.com/playhouse/outdoor-playset-plans/ but their example is using 4x4 beam and the 4x4 footing does not have concrete footing.

I imagine 4x8 beam would need to have 4x4 footing into concrete. Or is it not necessary?


texts: It's pot metal, three screws holding it together. It has a sharp rolling disk inside. Looks like it can be held in the palm of your hand to cut something. Maybe leather, carpet, or Pizza. It's at a thrift shop in Frasier, CO.


texts: How do you connect tap lines to the water line?

texts:
I bought a new bathroom tap with braided lines and it has the same end connectors as the end connectors coming up out of the floor, meaning both are female instead of one male and one female.

How would I connect the tap line to the water supply line?


texts: Should bottom wall plates in a basement be treated lumber?

texts:
Question for those who are well versed in framing and then maybe some code as well. I got into a discussion the other day between a couple other trades, they were suggesting I was wasting my time using treated plates in all of the basement walls I built.

The basement is a 4" slab of concrete. It's not a leaky basement, but I figured since the wall plate is directly touching the concrete floor, that it should be treated. I also went an extra step and used foam sill sealer.

Am I going too far with this? Is it just a waste of money? Treated plates are significantly heavier, more expensive, and also annoying to work with because they warp a day after picking them. I'm considering going to common kiln dried lumber and using the foam sill sealer then, but I worry that if the basement ever floods that sill plate will wick up water so fast, and destroy the drywall and studs until vented and dried out.


texts: Please help me identify and exterminate this insect:


texts:
I have an addition that is attatched to a brick exterior wall, and it appears that the copper counterflashing has come loose from the roof, and is now causing a leak inside the addition.  Is it acceptable to put some type of roofing adhesive to stick the counterflashing back in place?

What kind of adhesive should I use? Its hovering right around freezing here but may get up into the low 50s soon.

Do I need some other mechanical fastener to hold the counterflashing on?


texts: Finding studs in a horse hair plaster wall?

texts:
So, I've tried all the standard methods. Checked the outlet, which is screw directly into the lath(yeah, is that even up to code?!). Magnet doesn't work, I've got a rare earth magnet, and the plaster is apparently too think to pick it up(it's about an inch thick, so this doesn't make sense). I though to use the window as a base, but from the center line of where a stud would be at the edge of the window, 16 inches from there, there is no stud(I drilled it).

I'm losing my mind on this.


texts: Layering another type of paint on cabinet/how to fix

texts: I am redoing a cabinet for an entertainment center. I sanded, 2 coats primer (1-2-3) and 2 coats paint. I am using BM advance untinted satin finish. The cabinets are pictured below. The issue is that I got great coverage on the flat parts of the doors with a foam roller. But on the smaller detailed parts I had to use a brush and the coverage is no bueno. I haven’t been thrilled at all with the BM advance to be honest. It’s been about 6 days since the last coat of BM. I’m wondering if I should sand w/220 or 400 and add one more coat of paint to the door fronts, and if so what paint should I use. Is there another BM paint that would provide better coverage? Since this cabinet is not in my kitchen or bath I don’t need crazy durability. I also don’t want to mess with the cure or hardening of what’s on there now. I’m not going for perfection but not sure how to meet my fairly low standards.  The cabinet housing looks good because it’s all flat parts that were rolled. Help!


texts: primer not adhering to oil based painted ceiling- help

texts: Just primered the kitchen ceiling with 1-2-3 water based primer. The ceiling was previously painted with oil based paint. In preparation, I used TSP rinsed it well, then used liquid sander. Now the primer can be scrath off with finger nail. I need help please. what is the best way remove the primer without having to sand the 25x11 ceiling?


texts: Installing a ceiling light with screw holes that don't match the ceiling bracket

texts:
I want to install an IKEA Calypso ceiling light. The screw holes in my ceiling measure 7 cm across.

The screw holes on the light differ - they measure 9 cm across. How would I screw in the light if the holes don't match up?

Here's the manual to my light:

I noticed that the original lights in my house have both 7 cm and 9 cm separated screw holes, a feature that my new light does not have. Here is an example of an original fluorescent light, which would be easy to install:


texts: How to control the level of water in the toilet bowl?

texts:
Recently purchased a home and one of the toilet bowls has very little water in it, so when you do #2 it always hits the bowl and makes a mess...

How can you control/set the amount of water the bowl contains so I can raise/increase it a little bit?


texts: Polymeric sand loosens when slightly wet, is that normal, and what's the best way to cover it?

texts:
I laid polymeric sand on a patio (made of paver blocks), and it looked great.  I followed the instructions, and it didn't rain within about a week of my laying it.  It ended up perfect, and it's hard as a rock...when it's dry outside.

When it rains, or I try to wash it off with a hose (from mud getting on it), it gets incredibly soft, and will peel up easily.  I noticed the problem about a month after I laid it, and we had a rain.  Mud washed onto it, but there wasn't much water.  I sprayed the mud down, and got a leaf blower (on the lowest setting), and blew the water/mud off.  I noticed a decent amount of the polymeric sand was also peeling off with the mud.  Now it looks terrible, but when it dries, it's hard as a rock again, and none of it will budge.  Even the flakes that are mostly peeled off are hard as a rock, and won't break off easily.

Is this normal?  Did I do something terribly wrong.  No matter what, there's no chance of me ever using this stuff again.  It looks great, but it was terribly expensive, and now has lasted me about a month.

So, secondary question, is there a way to cover this?  I'm not even against the idea of getting mortar and putting a thin layer of mortar over this.  I'm not sure a thin layer of mortar is a good idea, but I don't want this stuff washing everywhere and ruining other things when it's wet.


texts: Pulley setup to raise a laundry drying bar levelly

texts:
I bought a bike hoist which I modified to use to raise and lower a bar that acts as a drying rack for damp clothes in my laundry room.  I now have the following setup:

The problem is that when I pull on the rope attached to the wall, the right side of the bar goes up while the left side stays down.  Eventually the left side of the bar also starts to go up, but by this point all the clothes on hangars have slipped down to the left side.

Is there a way to modify this pulley setup in order to have the bar raise and lower levelly?


texts: How can I reliably determine whether a wall is load-bearing?

texts:
I remodeling my kitchen and opened up the entrance to kitchen to be more “open concept”.  An inspector has asked me to determine if the wall is a load bearing wall.

I need to “verify” but not sure what they mean. Do I verify myself? Ask an engineer for proof that it is or isn’t? I’m not sure.

Here’s a picture of what I’m talking about. I removed the plaster. And accidentally removed some 2X4’s in the picture below but not everything. I believe it’s called a “pony wall” but not sure.


texts: How do I wire my furnace humidifier so it comes on any time the fan is on?

texts:
I have an Aprilaire 600a humidifier from a few years ago and currently it's wired into my furnace with two control wires labeled "W/G" and "Cf".  The "W/G" is connected to the W terminal on the furnace (call for heat).  The "Cf" is connected to "C".  My understanding is that any time call for heat occurs, W is shorted to C, which is detected by my humidifier and it enables the flow of water.

I would like the humidifier to run any time the fan is on, not just when there's a call for heat.  The fan control is determined by the "G" terminal.  Is there a way to change my wiring to do this?

Edit:  Furnace model is Bryant 925t.  Per the manual:

  The HUM terminal is a 24 VAC output, energized when the gas valve
  relay is operating during a call for heat.

This seems like it wouldn't help since it's only available during the call for heat.

Edit 2: There is also a "EAC-1" terminal that is energized "whenever the blower operates". However, this operates at 115 VAC, not 24VAC.  Is there a way I could use this?


texts: Can my garage ceiling handle this much weight?

texts:
I am looking to mount a shop light reel and an air hose reel on the ceiling in my garage and am worried that it might be too much weight. Here are the approximate weights:

Light reel: 10 lbs
Air hose reel: 15 lbs
Mounting 5' x 2X6 board: 10lbs
Hardware: 3 lbs
6' 1/2" Black steel pipe (for air supply): 10 lbs

So the total is about 45 lbs. I plan on attaching the mounting board to the three cross beams seen in the pictures. The two 2x4 support beams I will use hangers so I don't have to screw into them, but the 2x6 I will drill a hole and screw two screws into.

Here are the pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/an1Rj

Thanks for the help.


texts:
We have a Lennox gas fireplace that’s about 10 years old and we live in New England. We have the thermostat set to turn off the unit overnight and back in at 6am. Often it doesn’t turn on even though the thermostat triggers on.

During the day after the room is warm, the thermostat and fireplace seems to work ok, turning on and off to hold the temp. In the morning to turn it on properly, I open the control panel and flick the switch to “on” and then “thermostat” and then it lights up. If I then turn off the thermostat, it goes off. It I turn the thermostat on after that, the fireplace works.

It seems that after the unit has been off for a while, or if it gets cold (the room gets to around 64 degrees), the unit doesn’t work in thermostat mode. Occasionally it does work, though.

Please let me know if you have troubleshooting ideas.


texts: No hot water, but exhaust blower running continuously

texts:
This morning I went to take a shower and there was no hot water. I went to the basement to check on the water heater, and found the exhaust blower is running continuously but no hot water is being produced.

The exhaust blower has been running for over hours now, but still no hot water. Every minute or so the water heater makes a clicking noise.

I guess I will have to have a repair guy come in and take a look at it. But it there something obvious I should be looking into first?

Also, is it OK just to leave the blower running for hours and hours, or should I unplug the heater?


texts: Rewiring for Nest Thermostat - Current ABCD Configuration Carrier

texts:
So I would like to use a Nest thermostat on my carrier system. I have the ABCD wiring configuration from current thermostat to the board on the furnace. On the attached image, you'll see three brown wires. First wire goes to the thermostat, the second wire is seated with the first wire on the green terminal block which goes to the air compressor outside. Then you'll notice spliced off on the side is a third brown wire, which is for a humidifier. I see the terminals for the more "universal" y1, w2, etc not being used. There is a wire being used on the common terminal for what looks like it is in use helping power the humidifier.

I get that I might need to change some dip switches and obviously move wiring configurations over from green block to the other terminals. I feel confident doing that myself. I am just looking for some help on how to do it. Each of the brown wires have five total colored wires in them if that helps.

Any assistance would be great!
Thanks

Furnace model number: 58VA090 - - - 15116

Outside unit: 24ANB736A300


texts: Shower Handle Replacement: Pull-out to Lever-out

texts:
My (approx 25 year old) shower currently has a common handle style on it (the clear/crystal type); I pull the handle out to start water flow and twist to adjust water temp.  It is essentially this style, with (I believe) a Moen 1225 cartridge:
https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-Simpatico-31661P-Chateau-Escutcheon-Polished/dp/B0083GDBP4
I'd like to replace it with a type of handle that levers out and the lever handle then rotates to adjust the temp.  Is this possible?  I ask because I see lever-style replacements available, but those pull out and then twist in essentially the same way/function as the current handle, and I'd like something that lifts/levers to start the water flow instead.


texts:
I had lightbulb in my bathroom that lasted for many years but finally blew. I took the blown lightbulb to the lighting store, and they gave me a replacement that they said would work.

However, I then found that the new bulb wouldn't fit into the light fitting. In short, the red line depicted below is shorter than the yellow line.

I'm confused about whether I should press hard on the copper-colored metal to push it apart (I think that's doable, though I'd have to push really quite hard) or whether maybe the lighting store were wrong and I have the wrong type of bulb.

As per the request in the comments I have taken a photo of the whole fitting, and have looked at the numbers underneath.

It says

PAT APPL 42845764
CAT No 60720 240V 60 W AC
SEC APPROVAL No CS 0799


texts:
Currently the house does not have air conditioning, and the wife has been hinting at adding some A/C for at least the master bedroom.
We have a hot tub off the master bedroom with what looks like a 50 amp circuit and of course it’s located on the opposite side of the house from our panel.
I was thinking I would like to add a 2 zone mini split in both the bedroom and living room.
Option 1, could I pull out the hot tub and repurpose that circuit for A mini split?
Option 2 There is a shutoff next to the hot tub, could I change that to some sort of toggle switch that would have an off, A/C, or hot tub position?
Naturally the wife likes the hot tub in the winters as well. ♂


texts: Cheapest way of adapting G1/4 sensor to 1/2" NPT

texts:
I'm in the research stage of building an RO system for an RV, relatively cheaply. I live in the U.S.

The membrane housing has 1/2" FNPT for water intake, and I would like to connect a pressure sensor to the intake. The cheapest pressure sensors seem to be on ebay, but they are all male G1/4. It also needs to handle occasional salt water.

What is the cheapest way to adapt G1/4 to a U.S. standard so that I can find or order parts? Big thank you!


texts:
We noticed recently that the corner bench in our shower had a sizable crack in the sealant along one edge of the support wall.  Our first thought was to simply reseal the crack, but as I examined it a couple concerns crossed my mind.  And I wanted to get better opinions.

Is this structural, and does it need to be rebuilt to keep the seat stable?  I don't know what typically goes behind these kinds of seats to hold them up, but it seems that corner is pulling forward.  This makes me think it might continue to slide forward, which means both that this problem will return (soon), and the seat will eventually fall.
Do I need to chase moisture out of there, before sealing?  Because of the way water typically runs off the seat, it is VERY possible for water to run straight into that crack.  And being very limited in airflow it's never going to dry.  Sealing in moisture for years seems BAD.

In theory, I'm okay with the idea of taking this apart and rebuilding it (again, I've no idea what's likely to be back there, and am assuming it's just several sheets of marble held together with sealant).  I also accept that could be over my head, or not needed.  Is this safe to just seal over, or reasonably straightforward to take apart and rebuild?  What's the best method of repair?

EDIT

Some additional pictures in case they help.


texts:
My electrical box is 100 amp. The box has two 100 amp breakers already. Can I install a subpanel in my garage with another 100 amp breaker?

That means that the box will have 3 100 amp breakers instead of 2.


texts: How long does concrete dust take to settle

texts:
I'm getting some wiring done and having the electrician chase the new wires.
The walls are concrete so I know that this is going to make a huge mess and need serious work after the electrical stuff is done.

But one guy I spoke to said to remember that the Concrete Dust would take a while to settle after the work.

This leads into several questions:

Just how long will it take?
Are the any ways to speed it up? (Walking round repeatedly with a bunch of big mister bottles to wet the air and pull the dust down?)
Does concrete dust in the air affect the plastering? If so, how long should I leave between the two sets of work?
The concrete dust will surely affect the repainting we'll be doing after the making good. How long should I leave between the concrete work being finished and the painting starting?


texts: How to measure heat in a Manhattan apartment?

texts:
Our 47-year old Mid-Manhattan hi-rise building is generally well maintained but whenever we complain to the super that we don't get enough heat, he sends a handyman with a "mercury" thermometer to measure the air immediately on top of the radiator vent on only one side (where the switch is located) to prove that we are getting enough heat by the rules. Unfortunately, that little spot along the radiator is not the average temp we get out of that radiator to heat the entire room.

FYI: Our heating system is also a central air conditioning system in the summer, but we have to blow out either heat or cold by a ventilator (hi, mid, low).

Is this the correct way? I saw some reference on the web a while ago that one should measure three feet from the wall and five ft. from the floor.


texts: CanI use existing 110v conduit for adding new 220v outlet in basement?

texts:
I live in the Chicago area. I'm adding a new 220v outlet to a corner of my basement (for a 3000W sauna heater).
The basement is finished so putting in new conduit above the ceiling would be challenging.
Am I able/allowed to use existing conduit with 110v and add in new wires for the 220V?


texts:
I asked this one earlier but it was closed for some reason, even though I was NOT asking for a product or service recommendation, but creative solutions.

I wanted ideas for building an octagonal cabin based on an existing platform/deck. So, after some research here are my plans - I hope they may be useful to someone at some point, please feel free to us them!

The framing are made of 2x4s, the platform and roof of 2x6s, the walls 1x6s and the posts are pressure-treated 4x4s. The only element I did not include are sheets of plywood, or more boards, to go between the rafters and the shingles.


texts: How can I drain the hot water line in my house? (re: adding a spigot)

texts:
I'd like to add a hot water spigot to the outside of my house but my hot water heater doesn't have a shutoff for the output (ie. hot water side of plumbing).  However, the cold water has a shutoff (and of course the house has a shutoff as well).

How can I drain the hot water line in the house so I can cut it and connect a Tee, etc.

(If it makes any difference, I'd like to convert my cold-water outside spigot into a hot/cold water spigot)


texts: Does anyone know what this pipe is in an HVAC system?

texts: In a new rental (one story, approx 1400 sq ft), one of the bedrooms was not as cool as the other two. I noticed air flowing from the attic door in the ceiling, so went to investigate. The pipe (thin plastic, not PVC) circled had air flowing out of it. It has a flap on the end, so the more air that flows the flap would open. It was strong enough of a flow to blow the insulation around it away. The A/C was running at the time. I went and looked a couple hours later and the flap was closed, so air was not flowing thru it, but A/C was still running. This isn't a dampener, as it is just an open pipe and you do not set the flap to a certain position. This is just an open pipe that seems to have air flowing out of it at certain times. Does anyone know what this pipe is? I don't have any specs on the HVAC system, as I'm just renting.


texts: Advice on cracks in wall and concrete garage floor

texts:
I'm considering buying a house which is about 5 years old. For the most part everything seems to be in good condition.

The two exceptions seem to be the poured concrete garage floor, which has a few massive cracks, and a storage room below the garage with smaller cracks on the walls. The house is on a slope so the garage is supported at the ground level on the one side and then extends across and over the storage room on the other side.

The cracks in the garage floor are about 1cm in width at their widest parts:

The storage room wall cracks are much smaller, maybe 3mm:

The owners claim that an engineer inspected the cracks soon after the house was built (as they were already present), and found that they were caused by the settling of the house. I have asked for the formal report, but would like your opinion as well.

Do these cracks look benign? The garage floor cracks are especially worrisome.


texts: How to connect my new light fixture that has 2 (+ground) wires to the ceiling box that has many?

texts:
I have lots of wires coming from my ceiling box. I guess because of two wall switches that turned on old fixture. Check the image below.

Analog voltage detector "beeps" on black wire in the middle and black&white tied pair on the right. It doesn't react on white wires on the left.

How to connect my new light fixture that has just two wires: black and white (plus green which is ground)?

Thanks


texts: How to attach eye hooks to glass fish tank to support a lightweight light fixture?

texts: I have a 30" fishtank that, due to the filter setup, requires a light bar that doesn't stretch the entire tank. I have a wooden dowel that fits well inside two eye hooks; the dowel will serve as the support for one side of the light while the other will rest on the tank edge. How can I connect the eye hook to the tank? I'm thinking there must be a type of clamp that allows an eye hook to screw in, but have not found one.


texts: Do I need to nail crown molding to ceiling

texts:
I want to install a wood single piece crown molding.  Given that my ceiling trusses only run one direction, I will have nothing to nail into on two of the 4 ceiling sides of my room.  I dont want to glue a backer board to my ceiling.  Dont want to glue anything to my walls in case I need to take crown molding down.  Is it necessary for me to nail the crown molding to the ceiling as long as I am nailing the crown molding into the studs in the walls?
thx


texts: well pump pressure range too much from highest to lowest

texts: I have a new pump installed that is made for kicking on and off with one gallon tank (according to installer). Basically no storage tank needed. However, in pursuing an intermittent problem I had already installed a new big tank. My question is this: can I reduce the on/off limits to within 3 or 4 psi of each other? I am getting really low pressure just before it finally kicks on the pump. Seems like if the new pump was designed to work within a much tighter range, I'd should take advantage of that. I think the installer set the new pump to match the old style tank unnecessarily. He did say there is a computer board that would have to be added if I were to go to the "on demand" protocol the pump was designed to meet. Still...


texts: Refrigerator making strange sound every few minutes

texts: Forgive my description of the sound but it's all I can think of to describe it. Every few minutes, I hear a very very faint sound that sounds like what you'd expect to hear when someone is being electrocuted in the electric chair. It's very faint and near impossible to find out where it's coming from inside the fridge. The sound stops with a single "click" sound.  Any ideas?


texts: Dishwasher not draining and emitting a weird sound

texts:
I have a 5 years-old Whirlpool WDT910SSYM3 dishwasher and very recently it stopped draining at the end of the washing cycle.
Every time I tried to make it drain, it emits a weird and unusual crackling sound (see attached video).
I suspect the drain pump might be damaged (I already removed it and checked everything for obstruction and I could find nothing - well... everything but the evacuation pipe, although the weird sound makes me think  the pipe is not the problem).
Before I try and find a replacement drain pump, could anyone with previous experience in this let me know if I'm on the right track?
Thank you,


texts: Is my Outdoor Mini Fridge Doomed? Wont get cold

texts:
I'm having issues getting my Bull Mini Fridge to cool. It was not working when we bought the house, but we never really needed to use it. I have been trying to figure out why it doesn't cool. The lights come on when the door opens, but the wiring in the back is kind of a mess.

I'm guessing a rat got into it, there are some frayed and severed wires, mostly the green ground wire. I tried reconnecting them all as I thought the ground loop would work, but still no cooling. I hear something turn on when i plug it in and the temp selector is at 6, but just never gets cold.

Is this thing doomed? or could it be something I am missing? Anything else I can check?

I'll take a picture of the wiring when I get home


texts: Did I make a mistake with this fluorescent light installation?

texts:
I bought a fluorescent light fixture with 2 light bulbs. I wanted to test if the light bulbs where good before mounting the fixture to the ceiling. So I simply plugged the cable to a 120V outlet. I heard a spark and only half of one fluorescent light bulb is on.

Did I burn them by doing this? I thought there is no difference whether it is 120V from an outlet or a ceiling.


texts: Five Year Mystery - Unable to find source of burning smell from HVAC system

texts:
There is a burning smell that wafts out of the vents of my 15-year old, 3-level townhouse (top level is a full unfinished attic with no HVAC).

The bottom level of the townhouse is the main level (with the front entrance door) and sits on concrete slab. The burning smell occurs in all weather, all seasons of the year, with the HVAC unit on or off, HVAC fan on or off. The cause of the smell is not electrical, 3 master electricians ruled that out. It is not the HVAC fan, that was replaced and there was no improvement.

This burning smell has been happening, year round, for over 5 years. It was pointed out to me that one of the HVAC pipes on my roof top is 1/3 the height of all my neighbor's (see the pictures). I have gas heat.

I think this pipe on the roof is related to the gas furnace. If the pipe on my roof is too short, and it is connected to the gas furnace, could that cause a backup of the gas pilot light/fumes to flow back into the HVAC unit to then exit through the ceiling vents into the two floors of the townhouse?

The burning smell is so bad at times that I have to leave the house or put box fans in the windows to clear the air.

Additional details originally posted as an answer:

First, thank you to everyone who responded to my post!! Your time and response is very much appreciated. Below is response to the responses we received.

We rent and our landlord advised that for the first 7 years he lived here they never had a problem with this smell. Actually, the problem began 2 years after we moved in and has continued for 5 years.

We just heard back from the landlord and he does not believe the short height on the stack pipe on the roof could be the problem. At this point, we are willing to try in hopes it may help. But landlord approval is required.

Regarding neighbors - have talked with both, they never smell it. We have had the smell occur when the neighbors were away on travel. Don't think they are the cause.

We are not the only ones who have smelled the smell in our townhouse, so it is not imagined. The very first time I smelled it, I thought it was an electrical burn.

The smell is intermittent. It starts and builds over a period of 3-4 days with the smell intensifying till it is maddening, then it abruptly stops and we have 2-3 days of relief, then the process starts over. We have taped coverings over ceiling vents in the bedrooms to keep the smell out - just closing the vents was not enough. The smell still got through, although diminished.

I can distinguish between the smell of metal, plastics, animals, mold, chemicals, and decomposition. The smell is not like the pilot light in our fireplace or the smell when using the stove or oven. It is most closely associated with the smell of an overheating electrical unit or electrical burn.

We have literally turned off circuit breakers in sections of the house for days, thinking the smell may be electrical in nature, but that didn't stop the smell.

We are truly baffled by what is producing the smell and why it is coming FROM the vents. After 5 years of doing every process of elimination we could think of, and that others suggested, I am now convinced the smell is originating within the HVAC unit.

The gas water heater sits beside the HVAC unit in the laundry room on the middle floor. There are no smells coming from that unit, it has been checked frequently.

All of this (and more) is why the has been referred to as a MYSTERY.

We have made two discoveries as we have tried to deal with clearning the air - if we run the exhaust fans, they cause the smell coming out of the ceiling vents to increase. If we place the box fans in the windows and blow air into the house, that will cause the smell coming out of the ceiling vents to decrease. Someone told us using the box fans in this way creates a positive pressure in the house and that is why it helps.

I don't know if this additional information helps in further solving the mystery, but I hope so. We are still open to any further thoughts, recommendations, thoughts, feedback you may have.


texts: Washing machine cord- only green wire- other wires do not have colors?

texts: How can I identify which is black and which is white?


texts: how to change furnace filter (bottom return) for Lennox G43UF

texts:
I have a Lennox G43UF furnace and I am not sure if I need to have both a filter for a side return and bottom return.  If I do (which sounds logical), where would the location of the bottom return filter be?  I just bought a home and there were no filters in place.

The manual for the filter states the following: "This unit is not equipped with a filter or rack. A field−provided filter is required for the unit to operate properly. Table
1 lists recommended filter sizes. A filter must be in place whenever the unit is operating."

Table 1 per above lists the size of filter that I would need for side return (16x25) and bottom return (20x25).

I have located the side return filter which seems to be behind the tin foil in image 1 (in centre of picture) but I have no clue where the bottom return filter would go.

Any advice would be appreciated!


texts: Make an hole at the center of a cylinder with a drill press

texts: I have a drill press and I want to do an hole at the center of a cylinder but I don't know how to do...Can anyone help me?


texts: A/C Air Handler Leaking Water Everywhere

texts:
I have a relatively old air handler that has worked fine for many years.  Just recently, it started leaking water everywhere, and it seems to be seeping from inside the base of the air handler itself (as opposed to a leaking pipe, or something outside the unit).

The condensation line that leads outside the house has not had water running through it recently, so that is clearly related.  I assume it is backing up somewhere.

But when I pour water into the clean-out, it goes right into the condensation line and outside the house, so I feel like the blockage must be prior to the clean-out.  The pipes are glued together, so I'm not able to take them apart, but there is only a few inches of pipe between the air handler and the clean-out, and it doesn't seem to be blocked in there.

Could this be a problem inside the unit itself?  Is this something that I could attempt to fix myself?  I am moderately handy, but don't know a whole lot about plumbing or HVAC.  I would call an HVAC company, but they are all booked several days or weeks out, and I am putting my house on the market tomorrow.  I'd prefer to get this fixed before people start coming to look at the house.

I tried opening the panel, but the drain pipe is holding it in. I tried loosening the drain pipe screw, but it won't budge.

Update - Today, the weather was nice, so we turned off the A/C and opened the windows.  Periodically throughout the day, I would hear the pump running, pushing water out of the condensation line.  So I am assuming that there is a blockage somewhere in the air handler that lets just a small amount of water come through.  So when everything is off, the backup of water slowly comes through and gets pumped out, but when it's on, there's just too much water, and it ends up spilling out.

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!


texts: Without using dowels, how do I join 2x4s edge to edge to be 1.5" x 7"?

texts: I am trying to join a 2x4 supporting a workbench tabletop to another to make a backsplash of sorts. Any ideas how to do this without dowels? (No, I can't use 2x8)


texts:
My Toronto, CA condo has Sakura R727II range hood. I screen capped page 7 in Installation Guide. I bought 7 years ago, and never cleaned inside! When I sear or pan fry some things, I smell much smoke now!

Much smoke means grease clogging fans and exhaust duct. Right?

Undeniably I can't see or reach over fan inside range hood! How can I clean? Easy to remove range hood? Or I need technician? Is there profession called "range hood technician"?


texts: How should I run cables through interior wall to garage?

texts:
Please excuse me if this has been asked before, I searched previous questions but didn't find anything similar...
I have my computer in our garage because of less noise, heat, dust, etc... also it's pretty cool all year, so I'm not worried about heat issues in the garage.
Is it against code (Bozeman, Montana) to run cables through an interior wall to a garage?  How can I do this correctly?
Is there something I could install with/around the cables that would prevent gasses from coming in, etc?
Right now the cables are running inside the wall and in our crawlspace.


texts: Are bubbles in new exterior paint normal?

texts:
Not happy with the new exterior paint job - it bubbled immediately, and the initial recommendation from the contractor was "don't pop them". We gave it time to settle, but the issue still hasn't been resolved. I am so disappointed in the appearance. I asked the owner if this:

Was satisfactory to him as a professional
Met current industry standards
Was he prepared to do nothing to remedy the situation?

It appears the answer was 'yes' to all. Is it reasonable that I ask again for this to be re-done in the spring when it is warm and dry? Please advise.


texts:
I would like to install 4" perforated drain pipe along the footer on the inside of a crawlspace. The bottom of the footer is at the height of the existing crawlspace floor. Should I lay the pipe along the footer? I'm thinking I would have to lay a 2" bed of gravel then the pipe and then raise the height of the floor to the height of the top of the footer? If this seems logical, what would you suggest I use for fill? (gravel/dirt/sand)
i am open to any suggestions to remedy the standing water in the crawlspace.
thank you for your reply !!


texts: Pipes that supply water to washing machine are constantly dripping

texts:
I've recently noticed a regular dripping sound coming from somewhere near the pipes the supply my washing machine.

In that picture, the sound seems to be coming from behind the faucet on the left. The sound is about once every 2 seconds, and is somewhat lower pitched, a little like knocking, but still seems to be some kind of dripping.

Above the faucet, there's a fixture that seems to be leaking, but much more slowly; e.g. a drip of water forms and falls maybe once every 20 minutes or so, and it results in part of the central drain hose below being wet:

Note that this leak is extremely small and slow (and seems separate from the dripping sound every two seconds which appears to be coming from inside the pipes), so beyond the slightly wet outer surface of the black hose (since the hose just happens to lie right below that extremely slowly leaking fixture, there's doesn't seem to be any other puddles on the ground. The fixture seems to be connected to the pipes behind the faucet: when I push the fixture gently; pipes seem to move a little.

I'm locating on the east coast, in New Jersey. The last time I used my washing machine was yesterday, but the sound has been around for at least 4-5 days.

Any suggestions on how I should proceed?


texts: Installing an acrylic glass pane as a one-sided shower cabinet - feasibility & tools

texts:
I'm moving into a new place at the end of month. It's in the attic of a tenement building, and all the wall (and ceilings) are drywall.

My first project is the bathroom: The bathtub doubles as a shower. Since it is a bit squeezed in between the slope roof and the sink, no shower cabinet has been installed. The former tenants installed a triangular curtain and supposedly showered while squatting down. See the picture for more details.

I am planning to both install a shower head on the ceiling (this is another question) and a one-sided shower cabinet in order to prevent the area around the sink from getting drenched every time I take a shower.

The bathtub is 75 cm (2'6") wide and there's 187.5 cm (6'3") space between tub and ceiling. The sink exactly does not clip the space above the tub, so I could install a cabinet directly at the edge of the tub. See the following image (I apologize for the rather crude drawing):

While I would prefer installing a pre-constructed cabinet made from glass, two issues prevent this:

There is a recess between the bathtub/sink/toilet and the actual drywall, which likely houses the drainage etc. This recess is about 120 cm (4') high from the ground (only 66 cm (2'2") above the tub) and 29 cm (almost 1') deep. Installing a heavy glass pane relying only on these 66 cm for support could be rather unsafe. Also, the recess would reduce the effectiveness of any single-pane cabin.

As already mentioned, the walls are all drywall - I'd rather not try to mount anything heavy on them - thus, no glass pane, again.

Therefore, I am planning on using acrylic glass (most likely 5 mm thick), which would allow me to make the cuts which are necessary in order to fit the recess. U-shaped plastic profiles would be glued to the tiles and the edge of the tub, in order to keep the pane roughly in place, then I'd secure the pane all around using silicone. Most likely the pane will not reach all the way to the ceiling and thus have to be fixated using a retainer (which is available for purchase at my local hardware store).

Actually, this leads me to two connected questions (I have never worked with acrylic glass before): How do I best cut the pane (tools & what to watch out for during the process) - and would it even be sturdy enough to not to wobble all the time?

ps: If the whole idea is nuts and/or I overlooked some mayor detail, please tell me so.


texts: Can I add a patio sealer to my polymeric sand patio?

texts: The polymeric sand "grout" between my slate patio pavers is loosening up and coming out. I suspect it was improperly laid by the contractor. I am going to redo the polymeric sand treatment and I am thinking about using a patio sealer such as Thompson's Patio and Block Paving Seal to brighten up the stone and protect the sand from breaking up. Does this sound like a good idea or is there a problem to doing this that the presence polymeric sand might present?


texts: Air pushing under basement door and kitchen sink cabinets when furnace runs

texts: Whenever the furnace runs I feel a steady draft of air pushing out from under the basement door and kitchen sink cabinets. I have a mostly finished basement with registers but not return vents in basement all return vents are on first floor. My home is about 1500 sq ft and I live in northern IL. Do I need cold air returns in the basement to stop this and to help increase the temperature in the basement.


texts: Local building code requires a roof vent that is less than ten feet away from an operating skylight to extend a minimum of three feet above the skylight.  Is there an alternative venting system, other than a straight pipe, that can be installed instead that doesn't extend as much?


texts: Filling a Viessmann Vitodens 100W that has dropped to minimum pressure

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I have a Viessmann Vitodens 100-W that heats my house, and I presume delivers hot water too.
I must confess I have been negligent, and never had it serviced. The unit is 8 years old. I will get it serviced soon,provided I can find a licensed service mechanic for it.
Now, I did notice that the pressure gauge reads 13psi, which is pretty much the minimum level according to the manual (the manual does contradict itself by first stating the minimum is 12psi, and later in the text it says 14psi.)
The procedure is not listed in the owners-manual, but is it something that a homeowner could do, add water to increase the pressure?
Is it just a matter of opening a valve somewhere until the pressure gauge shows the correct value, or do I actually have to hook it up to a gardenhose?

UPDATE: Thanks George, I have found something called "Backflow Preventer."
It seems to have a valve both in front and after it? Or is it some sort of other lever, that I see to the left of it?
I am in Canada.


texts: I closed on my home 5 months on 8/30/2018. Now I have noticed cracks on my garage floor. The cracks are getting wider. I am concerned. This is my first home. Please any advice?


texts: How to patch wood subfloor surrounded by gypsum/gypcrete?

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I have a 1'x 2' of wood subfloor in a bathroom corner that is rotted as seen in the picture. It's 3/4" thick. Below it is around 22" of space and the neighbor downstair. I know that much, but I don't know where are the joists. Originally on top of this plywood part is 1.5"-thick wood, while the rest is gypcrete. I am going to tile all after fixing this and patching everything. But now I don't know what to do with this.

What is the easiest way to patch this rotted wood? Can I just try remove as much rotted wood as possible and use epoxy sealer?

I am diy-er and only have a circular saw, reciprocate saw and a jig saw. If it has to be cut out, how do I find the joists? How can I limit the damage, to the surrounding gypcrete, the below joists, and the pipe?

Before


texts: Need help interpreting panel specification

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On my electric panel spec sheet it says:

  Sum of current ratings of two breaker poles fed from one connector must not exceed 125 Amps.

What does that mean?


texts: Would it be safe to use a three way switch to run two different hots to one outlet. Our RV is 30 amp, with two A/C’s. Both running they pull 24 amps, so one has to be shut off for the microwave. I can get a separate 20 amp supply most times we stop. The switch is rated 20 amps. Is there another way?


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I want to add a new outlet to a old circuit I have old wiring and would like to add new wires the only wire they had at the store was 8-3. What will this do if anything my house was built in 1962. I do have a breaker box not fuses. And it is a very short run is it better to take the old wire to the new receptacle and then jump to the old receptacle or does it matter? How can I tell what my old wire is and whether I have a neutral

Thank you everyone. After many responses I drove over to a bigger town and got 10-2 and used a junction box. To answer questions I was wiring in a 15 amp receptacle with 2 USB charging ports in the old receptacle spot and running a new receptacle behind my TV to hide all the wires. I did notice that my Circuit breaker what's a 20 amp breaker with 15 amp receptacles. I plan to change that in the future. We will be burying 400 amp to the home soon and adding a 22kw Generac so I want to have his many circuits on the back up as possible.


texts: What should I use as a base for my wall mounted PC case?

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Here is an example of what I am trying to put together:

What material could I use as a base onto which I can mount the motherboard, hard-disk and other wiring?


texts: Why would angle grinder cutting wheels of the same diameter have different thickness?

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Cutting wheels for the same diameter angle grinder can have different thickness. For example, 125 millimeters wheels can be 0,8 or 1,0 or 1,2 or 2,5 or 3,0 millimeters thick. I've tried several variations - looks like the thinner the wheel the faster it cuts because the smaller is the contact surface.

What's the reason for having so many thickness varieties of cutting wheels of the same diameter?


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My toilet tank will over flow after hours of unuse, and leaks from the handle. The fill valve has been replaced and the large flow of water will stop, you can hear and see it has stopped when the black floater rises after the toilet has been flushed. All seems well. However, hours later, if the toilet has not been used there will be water running down the front from the small hole at the handle. It is not the hole at the handle either, because the water turns off way before the level rises up that high. I do not understand why it is still slowly and silently filling, although the fill valve seems to be working properly.

Please help!!
Thanks


texts: How can I attach a safety gate at the bottom of the stairs?

texts: I have a wall on one side with trim molding at baseboard and opposite end is the wooden banister. What type of gate can I attach. The drywall is not holding the screws in place and we we frequently open and close the gate. I have  regalo gate that I re-purposed but it keeps falling  off the drywall. The stud is a little fruther away from where I want the gate on the wall, if I fix it to the stud in the drywall, the gate would be at an angle to the wooden banister.


texts: Why would steps on a staircase not span the full width of the staircase?

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I was looking at some new houses in this new subdivision in my area.  The model home we looked at looked nice, had carpeting, lighting, etc.

However, we noticed on this model (as well as a 2nd model and a move-in ready unit) that several of the steps on the staircase didn't span the full width of the staircase itself.  The carpet in all 3 cases covered the "holes" but you could feel it with your finger.  It wasn't just 1 step; it was probably 4-5 in the first model, maybe 4-5 steps in the 2nd model, and maybe 3 for the move-in ready unit.

The largest holes I could stick maybe up to the 1st knuckle on my index finger.  A young child might be able to stick 2 fingers in.  Some of the smaller holes I could put my finger tip in; about half way down my finger nail.  And then there were steps where it was "perfect" in my eyes (flush with the wall) and you couldn't stick anything in between, which is what I expected.

Is there a reason for doing this on a staircase or is this a case of bad workmanship?  Is there any structural concerns or the way they make/support steps on a staircase, this is ok?  I didn't take any photos but I can try to if needed to show what I'm seeing.


texts: What do I need to know before taking the home owner's electrical test?

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Inspector came over and checked out my basement today.  He suggested that I take the `local home owner's electrical test to sign off on that part of the permit.

They give you the NEC 2008 handbook, 10 questions, and 2 hours.

What are the basic things I should know.  Any tips?  How hard is too pass (I understand this may vary)


texts: How can I add joists to an existing trussed ceiling?

texts: My garage ceiling framing consists of manufactured 2x4 trusses over a 20.5' span and on 24" centers. There is currently some plywood flooring for light storage. The sheetrock that was on the ceiling was bowing between those 24" spans. The 2x4 trusses are NOT sagging. I have removed all the sheetrock and intend to replace it with plywood. I would also like to add a joist between each of the trusses which will provide joists on 12" centers instead of 24". I need to use 2x4s so I don't have to raise the existing light storage flooring to accommodate 2x6s or 2x8s. I am thinking of putting 2x4 blocking between the existing trusses (offset from the center of the span to avoid the trusses' nail plates at the center) and using two 12' 2x4s (cut to length, of course) to make the span, nailing at the wall plate and but-joining to the 2x4 block with added blocking for support between the trusses and joists at a half or third the length of the new joists. Is this the best way to accomplish what I am trying to do?


texts: How To Fix Severed Sprinkler Solenoid Wire?

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I re-opened my sprinkler system this season to discover that one of the zones would not go off on it's own.  After visually inspecting the valves, I see that the issue is that one of the two wires that connects to the problem zone's solenoid has been severed.  Not sure what happened - maybe an animal chewed through it or weather destroyed it, but it is severed right near the solenoid connection, making standard splicing and fixing impossible from what I can tell.

How do I fix this?  Do I need to solder the wire back on?  That was the only thing I could think of, but wanted another opinion before taking any irreversible action.


texts: Cost-effective way to have good lighting for color-blind users

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I live in a tropical area and the sunlight is generally 'hot' as opposed to what you'd see in the UK.

I'm also color-blind to some extent and I have a lot of trouble trying to get my indoor lighting in order.

Common CFL bulbs are killing - my eyes hurt a lot.
Tube lights have a simliarly irritating effect on my eyes.
I use 'warm white' CFLs mounted on the ceiling but the shades seem to create shadows.
I have to spend an average of 12 hours in this setting for work.
The tungstan bulbs are obviously expensive to use (running cost).
The best so far seem to be are the halogen lamps but they're costly and emit too much heat.

What solution is there to make cost-effective lighting that would be easy on my eyes and give out the effect of early-morning sunlight?

By the way, my walls and ceilings are white.


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I've attached a picture of the trap for my washer. The closet that this is in smells like septic tank gas so I assume it is leaking out of the standpipe. I haven't seen this type of trap before and I'm wondering if perhaps the unusual trap design is to blame.  From the top of the elbow in the top of the picture the standpipe rises 22". from the top of the exit of the trap is 28". The vent does connect through the ceiling to the main part of the vent stack.

stand pipe is on the left. vent on the right

close up view of vent stack


texts: Is it safe to repair inside wall and ceiling after ice dam?

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An ice dam at the intersection of a sloped roof and wall caused damage to the interior ceiling and wall. I cut through the surface of the ceiling and wall when it happened, to allow the collected water to drain, which took a couple days. At first a bunch rushed out, then it trickled out until a day or two after we had the dam fixed. When it was dry to the touch, I scraped/cut away all the damaged areas and applied joint compound with new tape, then used oil-based primer and painted.

Everything looks fine, but I'm worried about whether mold or some other bad stuff) could (or did) form behind the wall, either in the back of the drywall below where I repaired, or on the framing or insulation (probably R13 faced sheets).

Should I leave things as-is, or cut out a big section of drywall on the wall and ceiling and re-do it, or something else? Thanks!


texts: Hidden/Floating Hardware for Solid Wood Alcove Shelves?

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I would like to install some thick pieces of wood to form alcove shelves or a built-in bookshelf.

They will be tied into studs on the left and right. Minimal support in the rear, against a false wall.

I want it to look as if they are floating. I would like to hide as much of the hardware as possible.

Ideally they will be somewhat easy to remove and re-attach, as I will at times need to access the area behind the shelves and false wall.

I've considered some of the common ways to install shelves:

Floating shelf hardware brackets that install from the rear. My shelves will be installed, essentially, against a false wall in the back. I need to secure the shelves instead against the studs on the left and right sides.

Visible wood or metal brackets under the shelves. I would prefer for the beams to truly floating and without much visible hardware.

Constructed box shelves that hide their brackets internally. I already have some nice solid hardwood beams for the shelves, so I don't want to construct something like this.

This is the look I'm going for. (I'm aware this is a constructed 2x4 shelf with veneer.)

How would I attach solid wood shelves in the same manner, with mostly hidden hardware?

Remember that I need the shelves to attach on the left and right, not from the rear.


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I am replacing old drop ceiling tiles and I am bit worried about the current grid layout (which came with the house). The tiles are 2*4 and the current ones are fairly light.
After reading installation documents from several major tile vendors, they all instruct to have the main tees 4' apart, with the short side of the tiles laying on them. Cross-tees between the main tees would be 4' long, holding the long side of the tiles, as depicted below.

BUT, in my case, the main tees are rightfully 4' apart from each other, but then there is a series of parallel 4' cross-tees, resting on perpendicular 4' cross-tees. As a result, one of the long side of the tiles lay on the main-tees, the other side lays on a cross tee which itself rest on another cross tee, as depicted below.

In both cases, there is a wire hanger every 4' holding the main tees. In my current setting though, half of the tiles lays on a cross tee which is not hang to the joist.
The old tiles are fairly light (the yellow mineral wool kind) but the new ones are much heavier. I have a gut feeling that the structure would sag or collapse between the main tees.
Is this grid layout suitable for holding heavier tiles? If not, is it OK to drill holes in the cross tees (the ones parallel to the main tees) and to hang them? ... or is there a better alternative?


texts: I just moved in here, and it's time to use the heater. But looks like there's no actual screw on it, and I cannot open it. As you can see in the pictures, looks like there's no filter as well. How could I clean it or add filter over it? or I should just leave it as it is? Thanks.


texts: Is Drywall needed on exterior wall of garage on concrete block, 2-story house in Florida

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We have a home inspector (selling house) stating they want us to put up drywall on an exterior wall in the garage. I know it's code for ceilings and the abutting walls to the interior, but do exterior walls need it?

It's a concrete wall with insulation strip on it.


texts: Why doesn't my new shower cartridge allow water flow?

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My dad and I are trying to replace a Delta shower cartridge behind the nob. When we take off the cartridge and just let the water flow in from the pipe it has high pressure but as soon as you put in the old or new cartridge the water trickles out of the faucet and doesn't even have enough pressure to reach the shower head.

We have cleaned out those pipes and the blockage happens when you put in the new or old cartridge. The cartridges fit exactly and are actual delta replacement parts. If you need any additional pictures or videos please ask because we are in desperate need.


texts: Roofing material for flat slope western pacific northwest

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10 months after purchasing a manufactured/RVIA certified home the, landmark arch, ridge venting shingle roof began to leak, with water leaking out of the crevasses of the main beam.

A roofing contractor that our home manufacturer sent mentioned the material used isn't suitable for such a low pitch, a flat roof at 2:12. The contractor initially patched the flat ridge line so it folded to the roof, the same night after the patch the leak came back even worse. The second time the contractor came back, he completely removed the ridge line, and sealed it with tar striping. There doesn't appear to be any venting in the ridge now though.

The roofing guy seems confident that should be sufficient, however their initial conviction that the material was a mismatch makes me think the manufacturer might have convinced him to be quite so the problem could be fixed enough for the duration of our warranty period, 1 year.

We live in the western pacific northwest (wetlands) and recently removed all tree branches close to the roof to prevent damage.

Is the roof/vent approach, see image below, and asphalt material the necessary requirements for this roof?

If it's not, what is the likelihood we'll need to replace the roof in the near future?


texts: Can I put the unused blue wire in the C port, while still having the existing wire there?

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I am installing a Honeywell Wi-Fi thermostat.  I do not have a C wire, but there is an unused blue wire in the thermostat wiring, and also in the furnace wiring.

The videos I've watched say that I can use the unused blue wire as the C wire.  That's no problem for the thermostat, but when I look at the furnace, there is already a wire in the C port.  Can I put the unused blue wire in the C port, while still having the existing wire there (so, having both wires in the C port)?

I've included pictures of the thermostat and furnace.


texts: Why does my 240V range outlet have five wires?

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We're planning to install a new gas range with an electric oven in the spot now occupied by our gas cooktop. The previous cooktop was a broken 70s electric that the owners had disconnected from the power supply. Since we were converting to gas, I didn't take a look...until now! This isn't the wiring configuration I was expecting and am hoping the community can help identify what we have.
Here's a picture of the wiring -- pulled apart/capped to help see them better with multimeter readings noted on for the 2 hot wires:
And here's a picture of the associated breaker in the panel:

Finally, the range we're looking at has the following specs and I would very much appreciate any thoughts as to whether the current 60amp breaker is appropriate for the new appliance:
Electrical Requirements: 220-240V/50-60Hz, 35 Amps

11/11/20 Update:
First, thanks to everyone who took the time to comment and add clarifying questions -- really very much appreciated!
We moved some shelving out of the way this evening and found the conduit run. Pretty decent access, actually, in a not-too-scary part of the basement. Pictures below:

And here is the link to the range user manual we're planning to install - the "Electrical Requirements" section begins on page 31:
https://cosmoappliances.com/a/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/F965-manual-2.pdf
Official name is: Cosmo COS-F965NF 36" Dual Fuel Range with 5 Burners and 3.8 cu. ft. Electric Convection Oven in Stainless Steel
So, definitely planning to take Harper - Reinstate Monica's advice and "pull and replace exactly the wires you need now."
Again, thanks to everyone for their support! It has been super helpful and I would welcome any/all recommendations and suggestions.


texts: What are the differences between pneumatic nail types like "smooth" and "ring" for house framing?

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I'm getting my material list together to frame a house and am a bit confused by all the similar looking pneumatic nails which all have a slightly different wording/features and different prices, sometimes subtle and sometimes not.

On the takeoff a lumber yard created for me, there are several types of nails listed. They are:

Pneu-Fast PF SP12D 3-1/4" x 0.131" NA
Pneu-Fast SP8D 2-3/8" x 113 2.5M RS Ring Shank Bright
HITACHI HI13367 2 1/4X092 RG HDG
GGNC15 1-1/4X120W PS GV 7.2M

I believe the last two are for siding and roofing respectively. But when are SP12D nails used vs SP8D when framing?

Second, when I look these nails up, there are actually several flavors and options for the same size nail:

Ring Hot Galvanized
Smooth Brite Ring
Brite Ring
Hot Galvanized
Smooth Hot Galvanized

What do these terms mean, and when should I use a certain type?


texts: Is solvent fitted 2” pvc safe for use with drinking water?

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I have a 500 gal outdoor drinking water storage barrel, that I want to attach a hydrant to (the hand operated type)

Yes I know the water will need to be disinfected after pulling it from the barrel. I have a Berkey filter and a big stove for this.

Bear in mind that NO HOT WATER WILL TOUCH THE PIPE, and I will shield the pipe from the sun.

My question is, if I run 2 in pvc fittings and pipe to the hydrant, using solvent glue, will any chemicals leach into the water?

Also I have seen 2” pipe that is marked drain/waste/vent only. But I understand this is only because they don’t want it hitting hot water. If only cold water touches the pipe is it safe to drink from?

Is cpvc a better choice? Can I find it in 2in fittings?

If folks answering can provide references, that’d be even “awesomer” :-)


texts: Can I install a sink with a drain pipe that's 21" off the floor?

texts: We are trying to install a bathroom sink.  They had a step up to go into he small area where they apparently had a sink. They had replaced this tiny bathroom for a closet, but we are trying to place a sink again.  The drain pipe is 21 inches high.  Can we still mount a sink without having drainage problems?  What do we have to do?  Vilma and Joe


texts: Where do I unscrew the aerator from my faucet riser pipe?

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The picture under itself does not clearly manifest the 2 splits or connecting points, but I have indicated them with the red lines and numbers.  Which  do I unscrew for the following?

  First off you will have to unscrew the [aerator] [...] from the faucet riser pipe.


texts: What should I do with old furnace filters?

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I seem to be stock piling used furnace filters, are there any uses for these things once the furnace is done with them?  It seems a shame to throw them out; given that I change them once a month, there must be some way to prevent all this waste.

This might be a bit off-topic but the filters could be used in some DIY project, which would make it on topic.  So slightly off-topic question, looking for on-topic answers.

EDIT:

Seems to be a lot of talk about changing the filter so often, here is an exert from ehow.com

  Industry Guidelines The industry standard for any filter is to change
  once a month for the highest level of
  maintenance. Of course, this may or
  may not be necessary for all homes
  depending on their specific
  environment and how often homeowners
  use their furnace.


texts: Replacing two fence posts within a 32" span

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I had to dig out two badly rotted fence posts with cracked concrete. These are roughly 2' deep to accommodate a 4' post. These are so close that I'm really wondering what to do about this middle section.
Would you:

Set the posts, leaving the dirt that’s between, and filling over top and connecting with concrete
Dig out the dirt between and fill the whole thing with concrete, setting the posts with a single concrete pour
Fill the whole thing with dirt, tamp it down, and then dig two new clean holes, filling each with concrete
None of those, ya goober!


texts: Should I turn power to the leaking water heater off along with the water?

texts: Water heater is leaking so we turned off the water to it. Should we shut off the power too until it's fixed?


texts: Where do I connect the green wire on my dishwasher?

texts: I'm installing a new dishwasher and the dishwasher itself has the black, white and green wire, the power supply  (which is coming out of the floor of the house) doesn't have a green wire it has a black wire and white wire. What do I do with the green wire that is coming from the dishwasher junction box?


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I want to use 4 rectangular hollow ms pipes 40*25*2 mm. 25 mm vertical use. All 4 pipes will be equally spaced between a width of 490 mm. The length of pipes is 1390 mm, with these 4 pipes resting on similar rectangular pipes at both ends. They will be bolted with 2 nut bolts at both end each.Total load will be 300 kgs resting on a length of 1310 mm.4 vertical square hollow ms pipes are provided. 40*2 mm. Height from floor is 135 mm
Will this structure hold weight and not sag at any point.


texts:
First time home owner of 1 year old house in Southern Ontario.

South facing basement wall (50% above grade) has condensation forming between polyethylene barrier and pink batt insulation.

What could be a common cause of this?


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Recently purchased a new home and am noticing that there appears to be what seems to be an issue with water seeping through the foundation in the basement. Shortly after a decent rain the wall will start to look damp, after longer periods without rain the wall will dry out until it rains again (I have cleaned the wall and efflorescence will return). Interestingly, the water seepage is isolated in only one area of the basement behind the front porch steps, with the width and height of the efflorescence corresponding with the outside grade and width of the porch.
The front steps have a concrete foundation and I have tried digging a ~2.5 foot (deep) ditch starting at the corner of the steps/house and running out on both sides of the steps to help drain water away, but this doesn't seem to have helped, water does not pool in the ditches after it rains so it is flowing away there.
I'm located in NJ and the soil is very clay-like, which I know can also create drainage issues. Additional notes: House was built in ~1980, unfinished basement, does not have an active sump pump or other built in drainage, the sprinklers in the below pictures are shut off, when digging out one of the ditches I found a chipmunk den (know that can be a water highway..).
I'm wondering if I should try digging out more along the sides of the front steps (perpendicular to the house)? Could there be a 'pocket' under the stairs that is allowing water to flow in from other areas? Any suggestions?


texts: Radiators not bleeding no air or water. Boiler pressure is good. What could be wrong? Plz help Thanks

texts:
Plumbing

My radiator won't bleed no air or water . Boiler pressure is good what could be wrong. Plz help


texts: Should I keep the expansion tank when replacing copper with pex?

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I plan on replacing all the copper in my house with a pex system. the hot and cold pex manifolds seem much more user friendly. the copper in my house seems crazy, spliced and diced running all around.
I am wondering if I can delete the expansion tank, I am thinking that pex tubing expands as it is. if not, should the tank be before the manifold?
Thanks


texts: subpanel breaker tripped as well as main breaker - should I be concerned?

texts:
All...
My garage had only one outlet so I extended it using surface raceways. Like a dummy, I did not turn off the breaker when I started the installation of the raceway. "I know what I'm doing and I wrapped electrical tape around the existing outlet, and I'll be careful". (Stupid and lazy!) Of course, I created a short. No injuries - just my pride.
When I went down to the basement to check things out I discovered something odd. I'm not sure if this is something I should be concerned about...
The 15A garage circuit is in a subpanel. Our automatic backup generator (Generac) is not large enough to power everything in the house. The subpanel contains a transfer switch. Commercial power comes into the transfer switch via a 50A breaker in the main panel.
The 15A garage circuit breaker tripped, as expected. What I did not expect was to find that the 50A breaker in the main panel had also tripped. The generator and transfer switch did their thing, firing up the generator and throwing the transfer switch. I reset the 50A breaker and everything went back to normal, again as expected.
Is the tripping of the 50A breaker in the main panel something I should be concerned about? I would have expected that tripping the 15A breaker would have "protected" the 50A breaker. Is there a test I should do on the two breakers to make sure they are functioning correctly? They seems to be but...
TIA for your help...


texts: Holes drilled in parallam beam: is this a structural problem?

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The electrician drilled 3/4” holes on PSL parallam beams. Both beams are is 4”x12”. The first beam measures 13’ft long and the holes are about 3’ft away from the end. The second beam measures 23’ft and the holes are about 5’ft away from the end.

Will the holes compromise the integrity of the beams? If so, is there any way to fix it or would they need to be replaced?


texts: Uh oh. I've just noticed flying termites around my new outdoor office. What is a cost-efficient way to protect it?

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I recently finished building an outdoor shed/office:

The porch is redwood.  The structure itself is "nordic spruce"

I have not painted the outside yet (I'm planning to do that soon) but I've already noticed some flying termites nearby (about 5 or 6 were caught in a spider web). I haven't seen any indications of actual wood damage/penetration but this still makes me very nervous.

Is there anything I can do to try to protect the structure?

Researching online hasn't been particularly helpful.  From what I've found, my options include:

Hiring an exterminator - I'm not sure if this would be particularly useful since I'm not seeing actual indications of termite damage. I also don't have a lot of money to spend. :-(
Using pesticides around the perimeter of the structure -  It's unclear to me if that would actually do anything to protect the walls or if that would only protect the treated lumber foundation.
Adding a chemical repellent additive to paint. - Is this a gimmick? Or does it actually help?
Using non-toxic alternatives - Orange oil, etc.  I question whether these would be powerful enough.
Using bait - Stakes in the ground to attract/kill termites

Disclaimer: I could very well be overreacting here.


texts: How should I install fence panels on posts that aren't level?

texts: Needing to install a 24 foot horizontal board privacy "wall", we sunk one 6"corner Superspike and three more 4" Superspikes. The fence will be in two 12' sections. Our problem is that with uneven ground, the spikes are not all level with each other creating a difference of about 3 inches from one end to the other (this is the slope of the ground). How can we remedy this? should we compensate for the slope by driving three spikes consecutively 1, 2 and 3 inches deeper to make them level? We are also on sandy soil in Southern Ontario, and wonder about the overall stability of Superspikes when the ground freezes and windy conditions.


texts: How to remove lawyer bookcase glass door?

texts:
The lawyer bookcase has glass doors that slide up over the books. I am attempting to remove the door to replace the glass on one of the shelves.

Top shelf with the door in the retracted position:

Detail of the door with wooden pin into the groove on the side wall.

Detail of the groove in the side wall from inside.

How is the door removed?


texts: What is this large pipe coming out of my roof?

texts:
I've looked at the other "What pipe is this?" questions, and none of them that I've found seem to match...

I don't know what the large metal pipe is (on the right side). Can anyone identify what it's purpose is (or was)?

It does not seem to be connected to anything; from what I can tell, it terminates right above a shower on the ground floor. There's been a fair amount of renovation done by previous owners and I suspect that this is a left-over that is no longer in use.