texts:
so I need to put a switch in here, but all wire are black so i dont know which wire will go where.  just to give a context, this set of wires WERE used to turn on/off 3 light bulbs.  so the 3 wires will go to one side of the switch legs, and the other goes wire to the other side of the switch legs.  now, one of the light bulb is dead now(no more fixtures installed, just the wire with electrical tape in it).  so in reality, i will just need to utilize 3 wires in the picture.
so, i measured the voltages in the individual wires.  2 of the wires has ~100 volts(top wires), 1 wire has 0 Volts(bottom left) and the last wire has ~30 Volts(bottom right).  when i said i measured, what i did was put the red probe of the multimeter on the wire, and the black probe of the multimeter on the tiny metal at the bottom of the picture.
now for my questions, am i right in assuming that:

the 0 volt wire(bottom left) is the dead fixture(so i dont need to bother with it since it is dead anyway)
the top wires(both have ~100 volts), goes to one side of the switch legs and bottom left wire (~30 Volts) goes to the other side of the switch

irrelevant question

what would happen if I tap the probes of the multimeter in the wires(red goes to one wire and black goes to other wire)? is that safe?

EDIT
i forgot to say that I touched the two bottom wires together and nothing happened.


texts: Wiring washer, dryer, tankless water heater

texts:
Trying to wire for washer/dryer combo in the garage, and we need to add a tankless water heater to get hot water to the washer. In their current location, there's a (EDIT: 15) AMP circuit for washer, and one for the dryer. Both are electric. The water heater requires up to 33A, and needs a double-pole 40A breaker. It also runs 240V (washer 110, dryer 240). To make this fit in the box, I'm hoping I can make some combo of either the washer or dryer on that double pole as well.

EDIT TO CLARIFY: We have two open spaces to work with in the panel, I'm trying to see how I can combine one of the other appliances with the heater in that open 2-pole spot. (See @Harper below)

Electrical newbie, but am I correct in thinking that the best way would be:
-50A double pole with 6/3 to the heater (max 33A) and washer (Dr. Google says max 10). I already ran 10/3, but it looks like that's nowhere near enough to carry this load. It's exposed 20 feet, so I don't mind re-running.
-Leave the dryer on dedicated 30A circuit.

Does this sound reasonable? Is there a simpler way that I am missing? (or is this DOA and all three need to be on different circuits?)

Thanks!
Jeff


texts: Loud noise in the pipes when I turn off my hot water

texts:
We have a combi boiler, and recently when you run the shower after turning the hot tap off there is a large banging in the pipes. It only seems to happen with that specific tap (as far as I can tell).

I read online about water hammer, and I think that could be what's happening. I think I might need to turn of the water supply and drain the system, but I'm not sure if I need to turn the taps off/on in a certain order?


texts: what PEX fittings can I use with a Zurn PEX QickClamp Crimp Rings?

texts:
I have Zurn crimp rings and the Zurn ratchet tool.  I was wondering what brass fitting I can use.  Do they need to be Zurn fittings or can they be any crimp fittings?

For example, can I use sharkbite crimp fittings? or do I need to use the Zurn crimp fittings?  They look very similar or I can't tell the difference.   Thanks for any help.


texts: I'm trying to install a new fan (which I've done more times than I'd like to admit). This is the first time I've seen such odd wiring. The house is from 1975, and there are three different wiring components coming into the junction box (we'll call them 1, 2 and 3). All three grounds are grouped together. The white from 1 and 2 are tied together with an extra cable being loose. The white from 3 and the black from 1 and 3 are tied together and look burned at the end. the black from 2 is loose. I tied the loose black and white ends to the fan, but it's not working. I'm not sure sure what's going on.


texts: My 220 AC is somehow causing tv to flicker when the ac shuts down.  The ac and tv are not on same circuit.  Replaced the tv but replacement does same thing.  Could the ac shutting down cause a voltage surge in the circuit which feeds the tv and cause the flickering and momentarily shut down?  If so would surge protector eliminate problem?


texts:
Every so often, the valve lets the water run.

To check the flapper, I shut the water off overnight. The water in the tank didn't go down so it may not be the flapper.

What else could it be?


texts: What tools should I use to remove the tongue and groove from floorboards?

texts:
I have a big pile of high quality tongue and groove floorboards that I would like to reuse as decking timber for a small-ish deck.

The trouble is I don't quite know what the best tools to use would be to cut off the tongue and grooves and get the boards to a standard width.  I was thinking that there might be a way of converting a mitre saw to a table saw and do it that way.  Is that feasable?  Also I will need to round off the edges of the resawn planks.  What could I use to do that?  I've got a budget of around $600-$700 for new tools (e.g. a reasonable quality mitre saw), but I'm not sure if that would be adequate by itself.

I don't mind doing things a little bit inefficiently, but I don't want the project to become a massive time sink either.  Any suggestions?


texts: Will adding a half-bath impact the water pressure in the existing bathrooms?

texts: It’s ranch w/full basement. Adding 1/2 bath, so a toilet/sink. Doing it all myself and going smoothly. Above the bathroom are the baths on the main floor which has 1/2 copper. Is the water pressure impact anything to be concerned with? I imagine pressure loss will be noticed if the bath on the main floor is being used at the same time the new basement bath is. Is there any particular/better area to tap into? Thank you


texts: Replacing DC connection of 0 AWG with two 4 AWG cable

texts: My Inverter is connected to my 300ah 12v battery bank via 0 AWG cables, I want to insert a circuit breaker into the positive connecting cable, I don't want to cut the cable but can I add a section of double AWG 4 cables to insert the circuit breaker into the positive connection?


texts:
I have a square metal pole in the ground which has a metal sleeve and it's rusted that I can't get it out. In the past I've removed these poles using a Jeep jack (as in the image) and it's worked well. Now the Jeep jack is starting to break at the lip. The length of this pole under the ground is 18 inches.

So far I've tried spraying a ton of PB Blaster Penetrant into the area between the pole and the sleeve and come back and tried again and sprayed again leaving periods of 30 minutes to 4 hours between each try. I've done this 4 times so far.

I'm looking for more ideas on how to free this pole from the sleeve. Thanks.


texts: Should I use remodel or new construction recessed fixtures when installing a new ceiling?

texts:
We have a stomped ceiling on the first floor in our new home (built in 1969) that we want to get rid of.  Every contractor we've talked to says that scraping it off isn't an option because it's been painted over, so we are opting to install another layer of drywall over the existing textured ceiling.  We could also rip down the ceiling, but that seems like more work than we want to do right now, but if that's the ideal scenario, please comment on that.

Since I have the opportunity, I want to install recessed lighting because I can cut into the current ceiling and run electrical and cut as many holes as I need to in the drywall since the ceiling will be covered over.

My question is: Would it be better / easier to use remodel or new construction fixtures?

Here are the scenarios I am currently envisioning as options.

Install remodel cans into the existing ceiling and then drywall over this with the new ceiling and cut holes for the cans in the new 1/2 inch drywall.  This would mean that the lip of the remodel can is stuck between the new and old drywall and the trim that I attach to the can would have 1/2 of drywall between it and the actual can.  This is what I'm leaning toward, for ease of installation, but is it a problem to have the trim 1/2 in away from the can, with the trim against the drywall?
Cut bigger holes in the old drywall and use new construction cans.  This seems like it'd be more work, but I could lower the edge of the can down to the edge bottom edge of the new drywall, so the trim is right up against the can.
Install remodel cans into the old drywall and wire them up, then take them down when the new drywall goes up and then cut new holes in the same places and re-install them so the lip is flush to the new drywall (but I would have to modify the clips so they can accommodate 1" thick drywall).
Bring down the old ceiling completely and use new construction cans.  (seems like a lot of work)

The only other concern I have is that 1-2 rooms are additions to the house where there is no attic access, but I believe (hope!) there is insulation above them.  Do either the remodel or new construction install lend themselves to making sure that I get adequate insulation above the cans if I can only access them from below?  I am using IC rated cans even when there's no insulation.

Thanks for your input and advice!

EDIT: I did remove the ceilings and it was a good thing too, found several issues including HVAC vents cut off without being replaced so that a few rooms didn't have heat or cooling!


texts: I have an old house that has baseboard heating. Ranch house. It has a full basement the length of the house. New Lochinvar boiler. Thermostat is off and yet our side of the house is warm. 62-66 degrees even in winter with thermostat off. Is it possible, pipes under the floor are heating my side of the house because of 1"-1 1/2 carrier pipes?


texts: Special sized towel rack brackets needed - do they exist?

texts: I'm trying to replace my bathroom towel racks, without re-drilling holes in the wall. The previous rack's holes are wider apart than all the standard holes I'm finding in stores, so I'm not finding any brackets that fit the holes in my walls. Where can I find more specific sizes?


texts: Can I vent portable air conditioner into the garage?

texts: I have a bonus space that is attached to the garage that we use as a home gym.  I want to be able to run a portable air condition when working out.  It will only run 2-3 hours a day and probably only 4-5 days a week.  Can I vent it through the drywall into the garage? It would be easier to do that versus drilling through the stucco to the outside.


texts:
I would like to add a level to my cordless drill.

I saw this and thought it would work if I added it to the back of my drill.

I thought I would position the drill in the right position and then glue the level to the back of the drill to where the bubble is centered.

Do you think it would work?


texts:
I recently moved into a house where each of the three bedrooms contained one of these:

I'm guessing it's used for ventilation. Problem is, winter is coming and I don't particularly enjoy having a cold breeze during this time of year (also, the sound from outside can be quite clear and annoying).
What's the best way to cover this up either temporarily or permanently?
Some details of my house:

Built around 1953
Outside is brick covered with rendering
Living in the UK


texts: Should I replace particle board underlayment before installing ceramic tile?

texts:
I'm converting a bedroom into a bathroom. It looks like the current subfloor is 1/2" MDF or Particle board (I'm not really sure). This sits on top of 2x8 tongue and groove.

I've read that MDF and Particle Board both are not ideal for bathrooms because of how they retain moisture. We plan on using ceramic tile throughout the whole bathroom so I was wondering if I should replace the subfloor with something else like plywood or if I can just use some sort of underlayment. If I use an underlayment, what should I use?

Here's a close-up of the subfloor:

Here's a picture of the room we're converting:


texts: Advice for improving structural integrity of enclosed porch

texts:
I've recently purchased a home.  Home inspector said nothing about the back porch.  As I watch more youtube videos on framing and general home improvement, I look at my enclosed porch and think there may be some structural issues.  Would like input on how I can make this a little more solid and safe, as I don't want to tear it all down.  I've attached pictures.  Here are some things I've noticed.

1) Obviously, the ledger boards are attached over the siding, which is wrong.  I noticed there's not much holding the rafters in place on there other than nails.  Are there such things as rafter hangers (as opposed to flat joist hangers)?

2) Unless I'm missing something, shouldn't there be lag screws somewhere where it attaches to the house?

3) At the bottom of the roof, the notch on these rafters looks very big.  They appear attached to that 2x12 with nails, which is sitting on the notched (I assume) 4x4 posts (4 of them).  Are those ok?


texts: Do you need to use concrete for permanent garden fences?

texts:
I was at the hardware store today, and saw they suggest using concrete for footing the posts. Is this step really necessary as the mycelium in the soil will hold the posts in place, and there won't be a lot of weight on the fence?

I will be pounding the poles directly into the dirt.

It's 6' tall baseball field/skating rink fencing (interwoven) type to hold up vegetables and vines. Minnesota deer probably won't jump a 6' fence.


texts: Is it okay to install brick veneer directly to interior of a poured concrete foundation wall?

texts: Is it ok to install brick veneer directly to interior of a poured concrete foundation wall, or is there any additional preparation required?


texts: What is the difference between a 10a and 15a powerpoint?

texts:
I accidentally pulled a powerpoint out of the wall when I unplugged an appliance.

Looking at Bunnings there seems to be 2 choices. 10amp or 15amp.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-double-power-point_p4430414
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-15a-double-power-point_p4430422

What is the difference? Can I get either? When would I use one over the other?

This is Australia by the way.


texts: Getting at water heater anode AO Smith ECT40-200

texts:
I found this spec sheet for my water heater which shows where the anode is.  However I'm not so sure which of two ports is the anode.  Here's a picture.

In the spec sheet diagram it seems the anode is at the green circle but that's the PRV so what gives?

I know I shouldn't ask what this is but I'll include it in case it relates to the main question.


texts: Replace a dimmer switch with a regular light switch

texts:
I removed a dimmer switch controlling 5 canister lights in my kitchen, and saw three black wires coming out of the wall box.  Two of the black wires were connected to one of two black wires on the dimmer switch, and the third was connected to the second black wire on the dimmer.  The ground coming out of the wall was connected to the ground on the dimmer, and all of the white wires in the wall box were terminated in a wire nut.

I used a three pole toggle switch and connected the lone black wire to the common black screw in the toggle switch, and each of the two black wires that were wired together with one of the black dimmer wires to the remaining brass colored posts on the toggle switch.  Finally, I connected the ground to the green screw and didn't do anything with the white wires except put them back.

Everything works, and the place isn't in flames.  My question is, has anyone seen a setup like that, and did I use the right toggle switch (3 pole) to make the conversion?


texts: How to keep Structolite from cracking as it dries

texts: I have a house that was built in 1901 and needs a lot of plaster work. I've tried both Structolite and Gypsolite as a base coat over bare brick. Both of them crack as they dry, less than an hour after the structolite starts setting They look like a dried up lake bed. I've tried wetting the substrate before applying it but it doesn't help. Could this be that it's not packed tightly enough and it shrinks when it's drying? It seems solid enough, even with the cracks but I've seen pros using it without the same problem, so I know it can be done. Unfortunately the pros didn't do a good job of spreading it flat, so I'm redoing it myself.


texts:
I'm trying to determine the name and function of the part in the attached picture. I'm in the process of fixing dead phone jacks in my house and I've come across two of these so far. They look like they're functioning as some kind of junction, but there seems to be a bit more going on in these than in the ones I've found online. Any ideas?

The numbers on the device are SE 1542 A IND


texts: We have a 220 outlet for our A/C. We are shopping for a new unit and all I am see is 230 volts on the units. Will we have to rewire with a new outlet for a new A/C?


texts: How can I unclog a passive bathroom air vent?

texts:
I live in a prewar apartment building. At the top of the shower, on the wall where the water comes in, is a passive vent. There is no powered fan that is installed and no nearby electrical wiring to facilitate it.

When I open a window in my apartment, air clearly flows nicely through the vent - a piece of toilet paper can remain suspended to the vent grating.

However, with the window closed, no air flow occurs.

How can I fix this? My assumption is that air flow through the vent is possible but is occurring through a very narrow opening. When a window is open, air can flow one way through the vent and be replaced by air coming from the window. When the window is closed, the air vent is too clogged and thus too narrow to permit two way air flow and so no air flow occurs.


texts: Why does my home's power fade and surge when I plug things in?

texts:
I live in Texas.  I ran 300 ft of aluminum electric direct-bury 4-4-2 from the pole on street to my new home. The pole is metered and yes, I had my utility's blessing to do so.

Everything worked perfectly for 6 months, but now suddenly if I plug anything (lamp, heater, charger ) in my lights dim, or sometimes if I plug in elsewhere things get very bright or plug in heaters work better or worse depending.

There’s no rhyme or reason to any of it.

I have undone and redone every receptacle to be sure.
I installed 50 amp breakers in every slot of box on house to try to solve this problem to no avail. (I have never once tripped a breaker ever)
I haven’t been able to put up sheetrock because I don’t want to have to remove it.


texts: Can I insulate flat roof using this method?

texts:
I just wonder if I can insulate my flat roof in northern India by following steps as under:

Apply a cover of Bitumen

Cover it with polythene (for water proofing)

Lay used cement bags on polythene (LDPE bags will give thermal insulation.)
Cover with soil.
Lay tiles over it.

The traditional method used here is

I just wonder if I can insulate my roof by following steps as under:

Apply a cover of Bitumen
Cover with soil.
Lay tiles over it.


texts: Floor heating system increased resistance

texts: I have a Danfoss floor heating system installed ( properly, qualified electrician) and now after concrete and tiles have been set up my Ohmmeter shows a triple value that it should be. Can someone answer why electrical resistance has increased dramatically (proper measurement and tools have been used, by a qualified person)? Thank you in advance...


texts: Can I stabilize the tire tracks of a gravel driveway with hot tar?

texts:
I have a gravel road with a number of hills but one is long and steep. Generally this guy is close to un-drivable within 6 months. I do not have the money to asphalt this hill, nor can I fix this twice a year. That leaves all kinds of folks refusing to come up over the last 6 months.

Would it be possible to cut a "V" down each tire track, maybe 10 or 12" deep. At that point put a small amount of gravel down at the bottom of the V and then heat and pour some tar over it and quickly throw some more gravel on top and continue doing this until the V is full? Maybe put a few pieces of rebar in side to side to keep it from sliding down the hill?

Thank you
Doug


texts:
GE front load washer model WCVH6800J1WW doesn’t agitate or spin in wash mode. At start of wash cycle it fills with water. Then pumps out water no problems. But never spins or agitates. Pauses until press the Start/Pause button which begins the water fill again. This cycle continues again and again as the timer continues to count down. At very end of cycle time I switch over to the Spin/Drain setting which does spin and drain as normal. Therefore clothes only wash as water passes thru. Never agitation or spin on any wash settings.

What might be going wrong?


texts: Framing for gas fireplace insert in existing masonry fireplace

texts:
What are the requirements for framing for a gas insert in an existing masonry fireplace? See the attached picture that shows the framed opening for the gas insert (circled in red). The insert will project about 5" outside of the existing firebox. My contractor insists that drywall all the way to the insert edge (the red box drawn on the picture) is ok. Is he correct or do we need to use non-combustible material like cement board?  BTW, he is going to insulate with Rockwool between the studs. We were also planning to just paint the wall around the insert for a clean, modern look. Is it possible to paint over cement board or other non-combustible material? Is any special surface prep required?

Any advice would be much appreciated.


texts: Upgrading electrical when re-doing siding & code question

texts:
I'm thinking about re-siding a house within a next year or two. It is 2-unit house, 3 floors. The third floor outlets do not have ground. Can electric wires be ran under the siding? Is this common and/or up to code?

Alternative is to 'snake' wires but that will require a lot of dry-wall destruction.


texts: Why does my hot cooktop indicator light stay on too long?

texts: Why does my hot cooktop indicator light stay on after the cooktop is cool?  The indicator light never turns off.


texts:
I installed a new water heater about 2 months ago and I hear this cracking noise most of the time, even when I have not used the hot water. Does anyone have an idea of what could possibly be causing that noise? I called the plumber who installed it but he refused to come to see it.

Erick


texts: Will 2x10 joists span 10 feet between rims for a cabin?

texts: I intend to build on Weiss Lake in AL. If I use 8x8 posts, can I span 10 ft with 2x10 or should it be 2x12 for the floor joists?


texts: excessive moisture in crawl space with spray foam insulation

texts:
Have new construction in NW florida.  Off grade about 2' with wood frame construction.
Have water running down the driveway and under the house.  It pools up then slow drains in.  I have spray foam insulation.
This doesn't seem like a good idea and builder doesn't want to spend $ for repouring concrete driveway to slope away from house.
Appreciate any advice.
Won't this cause mold eventually and will the insulation seal the house well enough to not be a problem?


texts: Finishing garage for year-round woodworking workshop

texts:
In Toronto, ON and I'm finishing my attached double garage (20x20) in hopes of setting up a woodworking shop.

It's not currently heated or cooled but I plan on using it year-round so heating is definitely coming and I may get a portable AC too in the future. Replaced the 2 garage doors with insulated ones. There is no living space above the garage, just the garage attic (not connected to house attic). I will be installing 1 (or 2?) vents in the garage roof (this one: homedepot.ca/product/master-flow-50-nfa-black-roof-louver-aluminum-square-top/1000405504), soffit vents exists already on 3 sides.

The house is 33 years old.

It's coming along well but I want to do it right and have a few questions:

The attached (shared) wall is concrete block. I have already installed 2x4 framing in front of it and plan to use batt insulation, vapor barrier, and drywall. I'll also be filling any gaps with gap filler foam. Do I need a vapor barrier here since the finished inside house wall should have a vapor barrier? I've read not to install a vapor barrier on both sides of a wall as it will trap moisture. But I've also read you want to block all gas/fumes from the garage.
I have already finished 1 side wall with batt insulation and poly vapor barrier (no drywall yet). I learned afterwards that I should have used vapor boxes around my electrical boxes (metal). Is it worth it to cut the vapor barrier, redo the electrical boxes with the vapor box, and tape everything back up?
What is the proper application of acoustic sealant around the vapor barrier? I've seen it done only on the bottom, on all 4 sides of the wall, and even on every stud.
Once the garage is sealed and insulated, how do I dead with the trapped moisture? I am thinking ventilation fan? Will that be inefficient in terms of blowing out heated air?

Thank you!


texts:
I have a boiler for heat/hot water, with multiple zones.  It is a backup for a ductless mini-split installation.  I'm trying to work something out where the boiler actually does backup the ductless mini-splits automatically, so I'm adding wifi-enabled thermostats where I can.
The boiler control board is a Honeywell Model L7224U.  The manual for that is here:  https://forwardthinking.resideo.com/related_links/thermalsolutions/l7224u/install/69_1720.pdf
I'm trying to do things properly, so if I can, I'd like to use the common in the boiler control board, but I'm not sure if there is one.  I can't find any reference to it in the manual, certainly.  I'm attaching a picture of the control board schematic and the current wiring.

The system wiring is a mess, some dating I think from the 60s, and needs to be cleaned up, so I don't have a complete diagram of that, yet.  And some zones are already using a separate transformer for power, not hooking up to the boiler control board. But, again, if I can do things properly, and use a common from the boiler control, I'd like to do that.


texts: Gutters in front of corner pilasters, how to put gutters on a Georgian house?

texts:
I am looking at buying a Georgian style colonial and the house has very handsome corner pilasters, however, over each one is a gutter downspout, so it kind of spoils the effect of the pilasters. I mean it is almost silly to put fancy articulated corners on a building and then position downspouts right over them. Below is detail showing the problem:

So, you can see from the photo that the downspout is right over the pilaster and ruins its appearance. In the rear of the building there are downspouts both over the pilasters AND flanking the doorway which looks even worse.
How can improve the appearance of the building by changing the water management system to be invisible or less conspicuous?


texts:
I recently noticed a low spot or sag where my kitchen, hallway and dining room meet. I pulled up the carpet to find what appears to be 1/2 inch toung and groove OSB (the actual floor) that was not installed correctly and has separated at the joints causing the sag and squeaks. Unfotrunately it runns under all interior walls so replacing it seems out of the question. I am looking to install vinyl plank in place of carpet and and am looking for suggestions what to use as underlaymen. I was thinking of 1/2 to 3/4 inch plywood directly over the OSB, to stiffen up the floor and then using a felt or foam vapor barrier. This is an interlocking, floating floor and we plan to stay here a while. I unserstand that this will raise the floor and all doors will need to be cut to clear but I plan to replace all the trim and door jambs in the process. I have laid carpet and 1/2 inch hardwood but never vinyl so any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Mike


texts: Wall dimmer switch is warm to the touch after leaving the light on - cause for concern?

texts:
Our house is about 25 years old, though we have lived here less than 2.

Our master bath has a dual light switch, one for the main light bar over the sinks and one for the lights above the shower stall and tub. These are both oversized rocker switches with a slider to dim the lights.

If we leave the lights over the shower and tub on for an extended period of time - an hour or so - the switch will be noticeably warm to the touch. It does not seem to warm up any further by leaving it on beyond this. The wall switch does not have an internal backlight when it is off.

The lights on the circuit are an in-ceiling "can" light over the shower and a gaudy gold chandelier over the tub. Would replacing either of these help alleviate the problem?

I have not noticed this problem with the switch for the light over the sinks, though we don't typically leave that one on as long. This circuit consists of two bars of 6 bare-bulb globe lights each.

I am relatively confident that the switches are not original to the house, though the light fixtures themselves probably are. (Edit: Looked at them again this morning, and I'm less confident that the chandelier is original - the medallion is a slightly different color from the ceiling, so it either wasn't painted or was installed later.)

Should I be worried about the operating temperature of the switch?


texts: How to hook up a new gas range with mismatched fittings, and meet all code requirements?

texts:
The connection on the stove appears to be female 1/2" NPT. The 3' long yellow flexible connector has a female flare connection with a 15/16-16 thread at both ends. At the stove end there is a male/male adaptor that converts the flare connection to 1/2" NPT. The same adaptor is at the other end (in the picture).

The gas supply line (no valve now) has a female 5/8 OD flare (7/8-14 Thread). The old valve is in the picture.  New valve is arriving by FedEx.  To make the new valve work, I have purchased a bushing 3/4" NPT (valve end) to 1/2" NPT (adaptor end).  Note: It took half a day to even find a valve that would fit the 5/8 OD flare (7/8-14 thread) that was useful in this case.  It is a Legend 102-114.

Questions: 1. Does the "NEW" solution described below meet US codes in general (I know that codes vary from Jurisdiction to jurisdiction)?  2. Should there be a ”Safety+Plus®2” (in the picture) in place of the steel adaptor at the supply end (my connector set did not include it, but many at the store had it).  3. Why are there two 5/8' OD flare connectors in existence with different threads?  This complicated everything.

For clarity:  Gas is propane, all fittings except the new yellow flexible connector and the adaptors supplied with it are brass.

ORIGINAL (supply to range): 5/8” OD copper pipe supply with female brass flare (7/8-14 thread); to brass valve with two male flare (7/8-14 thread); to 5/8” OD copper pipe with female brass flare (7/8-14 thread); to old stove (fitting unknown)

NEW (supply to range): Original 5/8” OD copper pipe with original female brass flare (7/8-14 thread); to new brass valve with one male flare (7/8-14 thread) and one female 3/4' NPT; to new brass bushing 3/4 Male NPT to 1/2 Female NPT; to new 1/2 stainless or chromed steel adaptor Male NPT to male 5/8 OD flare (15/16-16 thread), supplied with new flexible yellow connector set; to female 5/8 OD flare (15/16-16 thread) on yellow connector (same at both ends); to new male 1/2'NPT, and into the stove.

The installers that brought the stove and attached the new connector to it were unable to complete the connection at the supply end. Supply House has the identical new Gas Connector kits (adaptor; to yellow flexible tube with flare fittings); to adaptor or safety valve.  But nothing that will adapt to the 5/8 OD flare (7/8-14 thread).  And yet, in their brass fittings section, all 5/8 OD flare fittings were the SAE standard 5/8 OD (7/8-14) thread.


texts: Do I need a vapor-barrier for laminate if my current floor is raised off a concrete floor?

texts:
My basement was finished in the 50s or 60s, including a real white-pine hardwood floor. It's raised off the concrete floor by nominal 2x4s as furring strips. The floor has seen better days, and for various other reasons, I wish to use laminate flooring instead of trying to repair.

Most manufacturers recommend a vapor-barrier for applications to concrete, but since this is not directly onto the concrete, do I still need the vapor / moisture barrier?

The laminate I will be applying already has underlayment, which I understand is not at all the same.


texts: The cabinets in my bath are new and unfinished.  What is the best way to protect the wood?  I would like to stain rather than paint.  Do I need to cover with polyurethane after I stain?  Also, what is the best product to fill the nail holes?


texts:
I own a home that was built in the 1960s in Hawaii.  The home is of Traditional Japanese construction (all wood framing, flooring, w/plaster) from Japan.  The wiring throughout is a black clad two conductor wiring (no ground) that I want to get rid of.

In addition to the age and composition of the wire, is the fact that the circuits are laid out in one of the most haphazard fashions that I have seen, and makes no real sense to me.  Each wire from the breaker panel goes to a junction box, from which as many as 10 other wires sprout going to individual sockets, switches and lighting circuits, causing a large bundle of wire to be routed through a beam and into the wall cavity (see photo album).

I want to tear all of this wiring (and sockets, and breaker box) out and replace with newer material that is properly grounded.  As a first step, I wanted to ask about circuit layout.  Are residential circuits typically laid out in a by-room basis? For example a circuit for Living Room, a circuit for Master Bedroom, etc, or are they further divided by use? For example Kitchen Lighting, Kitchen Plugs, Living Room Lighting, Living Room Plugs?

I am doing this somewhat on the cheap, and I intend to have it permitted and inspected, but in an attempt to get something started on it, I wanted to at least conceptualize the circuit layout and scope of work.


texts:
I need to wire 2 bedrooms and a living area. Rather than the addition of a separate lighting circuit with wires going everywhere above, I plan to run each room on a separate 20amp circuit (12/2) with shared receptacles and lights.
Starting my home run from outlet to outlet then simply T-ing off an outlet where a switch would be located above, I could run power to the switch, then to the light. Now back at the T junction, power would continue down the line of outlets finishing till the end of the circuit. My wiring would be in parallel, so pig tails on everything, also would be using a deep enough box to house the 3 sets of wires coming into the T junction outlet box(power in, power out, power to switch and pigtails to power outlet). Is there anything wrong or against code with this method of wiring??
I am aware that most people run separate lighting circuit, mostly for the sake of not losing light if a breaker flips, but for me that does not out weigh a simple branch off an outlet for ease of install and less wire to run, less connections, less potential hazards. In my mind it makes sense and is efficient. Am I missing anything? What do you guys think? any info would be much appreciated.


texts:
So I am going to mount a 65" tv weighing approximately 55.347lbs using an omni mount (probably this one: http://www.omnimount.com/products/tv_wall_mounts/full_motion/ulpc-x/).  It supports a max 250lbs.  The arm extends and tilts/pans/swivels and I plan on using that functionality all of the time.

My home is older and is framed with 2x3s.  Assuming I follow the manufacturer's installation guide correctly, and I find the center of the studs correctly, can I go straight to the studs or should I think about 3/4" ply (VC) between the wall and mount?

I guess I'm just worried about 2x3 vs 2x4 and having the arm extended completely.

Any advice is appreciated.

Edit: I just saw that the power bridge product require a 2x4 depth.  So that is out.


texts: Using joist hangers to support a lean-to/skillion roof?

texts:
I'm in the process of building a 14x16 tiny house with a lean-to/skillion slanted roof. I have the walls built, front wall is 12', back wall is 8'. I'm doing things a little different because I don't want an overhang in the front. I have scrap cuts of 2 by 4s attached to the sides of the studs on the tall side to hook the joist hangers to

My plan is to kerf/put a slit in the roof rafters so that they will sit flush on 90 degree joist hangers

My question is: Will this be structurally sound ?

It's such a small roof so I feel like it will be fine but I'd like to get some second opinions on this since it's not really the typical way to do these kind of slanted roofs.

Thanks


texts: My bandsaw follow and cut a straight line, but vertically, it almost immediately shifts the bottom part to the left and cuts a weird angle where the cut i'm making on like a 10" tall block of foam ends up being almost 1/4" left of where it is at the top, with the line I'm following. and it's not the angle of the table. Once the cut is done, the blade shifts back into place and holding up my 10" piece to it shows a large gap between the top part of the foam and where the blade is normally.


texts: I'm having a garage built without drywall.  There are a lot of nails protruding from the inside of the OSB board.  i.e. Lots of missed nail-gun nails.  Is there any code or requirement for these nails sticking out beside very poor workmanship?  And what is the best way to cut them off without disturbing the sheathing or wrap?


texts:
I'm looking to refurbish a bench that disintegrated over the years. The bench ends are still in decent shape, but I need to clean off the remaining paint and rust.

My main concern is that I don't know what kind of paint was used. I suspect that it was baked on, and I've already chipped off most of the easy pickings. I've looked into manual and chemical solutions, but I'd like some more practiced advise.


texts: Is my electrical panel big enough for my hot tub?

texts: I just bought a hot tub that requires a 240 volt, 50 amp dedicated circuit. My electrical panel has a rating of 100 Amps. Max. All the breaker slots are full but I am wondering if I could consolidate and install a 50 Amp Double-Pole and (2) 15 Amp Single-Pole Type QT Triplex Circuit Breaker to make room for my hot tub, or if I will need to upgrade the whole panel. (see pictures)


texts: Installed 2 years ago, 12/2 NM on a 9 pack bank of high bay t5's at 216 watts each. Started tripping breaker (after it melted) and found wire melted in attic under 2 ft of insulation. (This was new construction) Between rafters, 2 ft from any other wire etc, it was three way switch and this wire was the switch leg. After looking around also found that traveler was burned but not shorted yet. Replaced all of this and turned on, my meter reads 18 amps which is a little higher then it should be but well in the realm of safety factor. This is the only thing on this circuit, 20 amp breaker. Can't believe it happened and also can't believe it didn't burn the place down. Any theories? Thanks.


texts: How does one know if a well pump is "Short Cycling" or pressure tank is water logged?

texts:
Is there any calculation that can be performed to estimate the amount of water a well water pressure tank should output between pump cycles?  E.g.- I have a 40 gallon pressure tank (non bladder) with a pump switch set to 40psi on, 60psi off.  I suspected the tank was water logged, as when taking a shower, the pump would kick in every 15-20 seconds, which seemed short.  I ended up draining it, pressurizing the empty tank to 35 psi, then having the pump refill it, and now I am getting 2-3 minutes between pump cycles, so obviously recharging the tank was helpful.

This worked out great, but was more of a gut feeling.  Is there any calculation to see if a pressure tank has too little air?  (i.e.- something like my system should output XX gallons between pump cycles).


texts: Help with re-wiring a two circuit outlet with one controlled by switch

texts:
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y7RKV.jpg)

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/yb0Ns.jpg)

I am trying to reconnect the wires for this outlet but have run into an issue. The pictures above were taken before everything was disconnected, however the wiring in the wingnut with in the box was disconnected before a better picture could be taken.

This outlet is under the kitchen sink for the garbage disposal and dishwasher. Each has their own circuit breaker. The garbage disposal is running off a switch while the dishwasher is always hot. There is a three wire and two wire bundle running into the box.

It looks like red and white from the three wire are running into the outlet. Black from the two wire is also running into the outlet. The grounds are all wingnut it together.

What I want to verify is would it make sense in this arrangement for black from the three wire to be wingnuted to white from the two wire?  This appears to be what is going on in the image, however I don’t want to connect it and risk burning out any wiring when the breakers get switched on if this would not be correct.


texts: How to remove spot on top of curio cabinet

texts: I have a curio cabinet with an area on left side that is raised up above surface in a few spots. Based on the picture, can someone give me some advice as to how to remove this spot. I had tried Goo Gone to remove it but it didn't do much good.


texts: I am looking to hook up my electric heater. I have a line that was used for an electric dryer and not being used.  Can I divert the wires to the heater? I would like to hook it up with 2 hot wires with the jumpers like in the pic, and not 4 wires..the box has older fuses. What size fuse would I need?


texts: Is this the correct way to vent my roof?

texts:
We recently bought a 1950s vintage house with no soffits, i.e. no roof overhang. Thus there are no soffit vents in my attic, only a ridge vent and 2 gable vents, one with a powered fan. However, those are only outtakes, and as far as I know, the only fresh air is coming in from the door to the attic (this is a split-level).

I believe we need some sort of intake venting in the roof, and my roofer recommended an on-roof vent product.

Has anyone had experience with this type of product? Specifically:

Does it provide adequate air flow?
Are there water/ice penetration issues?
Are there other options for a house with no soffits?


texts: What could have caused a partial-panel service interruption when my dryer was started?

texts: We had a unique thing happen the other day. The home has 200 Square D/Schneider service panel. When the dryer was started, everything that was feeding from the right side of the circuit went dead. However, none of the breakers were tripped. Before we could put a meter on it, they all came back on. The power company checked the meter can and the transformer but found no issues on their end. As they were checking the can, we started the dryer without issue. My diagnosis is a weak main that is in the process of giving up the ghost. Thoughts?


texts:
Where can I find a triple, 3-way switch (toggle style) were all of the switches are 3-way. All triple switches I find only have one 3-way, the other two switches are single pole.

Here’s why I need a triple 3-way switch... or a creative solution../
I need to reduce a double gang box to a single gang box that holds three, 3-way switches.  Currently, the double gang box contains one double 3-way switch and one single 3-way switch. The double 3-way switch is the last switch for two 4-way circuits. The single 3-way switch controls a 3-way circuit.

If a triple 3-way switch doesn’t exist, I will have to abandon one of the 4-way circuits. And if that’s the case, can I leave the existing 4-way switch in the second to the last position in the 4-way series and terminate (re-connect) the wiring in the last position (the abandoned 3-way) to complete the circuit allowing all other switches in the 4-way circuit to work properly?... how?

Or, do I have to use a 3-way switch in the last position as in a standard 4-way wiring circuit?


texts: Manufactured home light fixture junction box mountings

texts: I have a Clayton manufactured home.   We replaced the light fixtures in a number of rooms and now the bathroom light fixture as well as the box it is mounted to has fallen out of the ceiling.  We have found that the box was basically held by the Sheetrock and per Clayton, that's the standard.  It's a clip style box that rests on the Sheetrock per the guy my husband spoke with.  I would think this should be mounted to something solid and not resting on something like that.  Can anyone direct me further on what to do or if that's just a bad standard?  I appreciate your help.  I am attaching pics.


texts: Replacing a hot water heater: tank or tankless?

texts:
We've lived in this house for 20 years and the hot water heater (tank style) was 2 years old, as was the rest of the house, when we moved in. In the last year or two we've started to have occasions when we run out of hot water. At first we put it down to volume - we have an 18 yo and a 22 yo, so they have showers, and they have friends over, and some mornings we're trying to accomodate 4 or 5 showers. But now it's two showers,or one shower and a load of laundry, and suddenly there's no hot water for dishes. Having read that hot water heaters usually last 10 years, I guess we need to replace this one. We're considering tankless, but:

We're on a well. The water is hard (the kettle scales a lot) and cold
We have electric heat
Our service is 200 A
In the winter, we set the heat back overnight so the house is cool, and warm it up in the morning (right around when showers would be happening)
Here in Ontario, electricity is charged at time-sensitive rates
We don't have natural gas available (we live in the middle of nowhere)
We don't have a propane tank already and don't want one

Is tankless still a sensible option for us? Roughly how much more do they cost - given that we're not taking out a working tank and replacing it just for energy savings, but instead have to buy a new heater, is it not too bad?

And finally, would it be worth it to get someone to clean/flush/repair in some way our 20 year old heater, that we have never done anything to, in order to save the cost of replacing it?


texts: Temporarily wire a dimmer light to an outlet

texts: I have a 19’ high ceiling with a poor hanging light. I have purchased a new light but we aren’t sure of the effect 5 LEDs will have in various times. I would to wire the light temporarily to an outlet in the room a few days before the electrician comes to install so we can try 2-3 types of bulbs and wattage. Is this possible or safe to do? Nothing else will be on in room


texts: Are insulation baffles necessary if the side attic has roof vents?

texts:
I am doing some remodel work in my finished attic. I've removed some drywall and have temporary access to the side attics. I'm concerned about the insulation and would like to fix any problems now before I install new drywall. The below image illustrates the current insulation status. There are roof vents in both the side attics and the ceiling attic. The pink lines indicate where there is insulation. In the side attics the insulation was peeled back from underneath the roof vents, so they are not covered. There are NOT any insulation baffles in the rafters connecting the side attic and ceiling attic.

Question 1: Should there be insulation baffles, or is it okay to not have them since warm air can vent through the vents in the side attic.

Question 2: Would it be better to remove the insulation from the rafters in the side attic and add insulation to the knee walls? This would have the benefit that I could fully insulate the knee walls. Currently, the insulation in the side attic rafters is incomplete since it is pulled back to expose the roof vents. I've added a second illustration to show what I mean.

Current Insulation:

Proposed Insulation:


texts: How do I install a new exterior GFI outlet?

texts:
I have an interior outlet.  I would like to place an exterior (GFI) outlet in approximately the same position on the outside wall.  How should I do that?

approx. loc. of desired outlet-|
                               |
-------------------------------------------------------- [Exterior of wall]

------------------------------[ ]----------------------- [Interior of wall]

                               ^
                               |
                        current outlet

Specifically,

What's the best way to locate and cut the exterior hole?
What's the best way to cut into the existing wiring?
Any considerations for exterior mounting?


texts: How do I install a WiFi thermostat with a Well-McLain steam boiler?

texts:
I have a Weil-Mclain 150000 BTU steam boiler, and have only 2 wires connected to my thermostat, but would like to add a new Honeywell WiFi thermostat. I have no C wire, no A/C, or any other type of heating system in my home besides a water boiler.

Is it possible to install this thermostat and how?


texts: How can I prepare uneven concrete basement floor for vinyl planks?

texts:
I have roughly 600 sq ft of basement that needs new flooring after some unfortunate flooding this past summer.  We had carpet over concrete and are now looking to lay vinyl planks down. There is about 150 sq ft off to the side (L-shaped basement) that is very uneven.

I'm a first time home owner, inexperienced with these types of jobs, and just trying to figure out the best way to approach this.

Do we try to level out the higher area only? Grind it down, or self leveling concrete? Or lay down a subfloor throughout the entire basement?

The majority of the floor is even, with one section that was possibly a crack in the foundation "repaired" by a previous owner. Max variation is nearly 1/4" in some spots around the edge of that patch. They had laid some ugly VCT over top to try and hide it.

And yes, the water problem has since been solved. And if it makes a difference, the area that has the raised patch is not the area we had water issues.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!


texts:
I am trying to build wall shelves in this little nook here. The space is 52 inches long.

I'm using these wooden brackets from Ikea:

But I am unsure whether to use 2 brackets, or 3. (2 would be ideal, visually)

I believe the wall might be concrete or brick. It's definitely not dry wall.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


texts: Trying to decide between these two types of masonry bits

texts:
I'm undecided if I need an SDS Max vs Plus for masonry drill bits. I've heard that drilling with SDS Plus can take a while with larger diameter bits. Anyone ever drill larger than 1" with an SDS Plus set? Currently looking at the two options below to see what makes sense...anyrecommendations are appreciated

https://kateyadrillbits.com/collections/masonry-drill-bit-sets/products/carbide-tipped-sds-plus-masonry-drill-bit-set-6-piece?variant=30299296694320

https://kateyadrillbits.com/collections/masonry-drill-bit-sets/products/carbide-tipped-sds-max-masonry-drill-bit-set-7-piece?variant=30295024304176


texts: How well do whole house humidifiers work?

texts:
We are moving to an area where it gets cold and snows in the winter. We come from a desert area where it is never very cold except for the dead of winter, and where we use the heater very seldom. We noticed then that the heater made us feel dry and uncomfortable. We are thinking about installing a full house humidifier. The company I am talking to says the kind they recommend is the steam/mist style. Cost w/install: 3000.00. I don't know much about them. He said he would install it in the garage near the hot water heater where the water source is and run the line up into the attic where the furnace is.

Can anybody tell me how well these work and if this price quote is reasonable?


texts: Help identifying patio door manufacturer by code

texts: I have found the code on my sliding glass door.  It is C-276-1.  Can you identify the manufacturer for me?  I don't know how to do that.  The glass is clouding between the glass pieces.


texts: How to remove halogen bulb from protective glass?

texts:
I have two of these sidelights with RS7 Linear Halogen Bulbs. They are encased in protective glass. Does anyone know how to get the bulb so I can replace please.
Thank you.

This website won't let me upload the photos, so I have added them here...
https://twitter.com/BonfireHeart17/status/1353015669575581696?s=19


texts: Can you fix scratches in Little Tykes furniture?

texts: Little Tykes has thick plastic furniture and toys.  Is there a way to make them look new?  Buff, fill, what?


texts: Can I run electric to a shed through my garage?

texts:
Total newbie here as far as home improvement goes, I'd love some advice from the community!

I'm considering building a little office-shed (for remote work) in my backyard. From what I can tell, in order for electric run to the shed to be up to code, it needs to be buried underground.

There are two problems in my case:

There's a slab for a concrete patio right below my electric panel. I don't think I could add a conduit without jackhammering the concrete.
The place I want to put the shed is on another (lower) "tier" of the yard. I can't run a conduit from the panel to the shed without digging a super deep trench.

Here's a outline of the property: https://cl.ly/fdd96711937f. What I'm wondering is if I can piggyback the shed electric off of the garage. There's a subpanel in the garage with a conduit already buried through the concrete patio pad. The shed would be placed behind the garage so I'm thinking I could run another conduit off of the back of the garage.

Is this possible? Or does the conduit need to be run off of the main panel to be up to code?

Any other ideas on how to get electric to the shed?

Thanks!


texts: I have an old Ethan Allen dining room table with a couple leaves.  It has a pretty dark finish with a thick coat of varnish on top.  It's also got various scratches, water stains, etc.  What is the best way to refinish the top?  As for revarnishing, I've seen those varnish kits that have you just pour the varnish on top and let it dry, should I consider those?


texts:
We are having a new gas stove delivered and I consulted a gas fitter to get the old one disconnected (so the delivery people can take it away) and come fit the new one.
The gas fitter surprised me when he said I could disconnect it myself, as there is a safety valve built in that would cut off the flow automatically (should be multi pronged apparently) - but I would need someone to come connect the new appliance (I've checked the relevant NZ websites and I can confirm that a gas fitter is required to fit a new appliance, but cant find anything on the legalities of disconnecting an existing appliance).
The problem is, I'm not confident in identifying the valve to disconnect now I've pulled the stove out - I think I know which one it is, but I need someone to confirm it please.
This is the connection on the floor to the main gas supply:

That connection looks like it can be twisted and disconnected without issue, so thats my likely candidate.
This is the actual connection at the stove, at the other end of that black pipe:

Nothing there looks easy to disconnect, so I have no likely candidates there.
Am I right in thinking the safety valve is the one in the first picture at the main supply connection?


texts: How can I get the maximum light while avoiding heat from a window?

texts: I have a west facing window. How can I get max light while avoid any heat coming from it?


texts:
I have two water heaters (different brands) running in parallel. When I run hot water in the house only one tank will drain while the other sits there full. I have manual shut off valves so if I close the hot water on the first tank, then the second will start running.

Both tanks are 50 gallon.

Any help would be appreciated.


texts:
We just bought a new house and I noticed the shower is leaking. I went to reseal the shower with a silicon based sealant, but then noticed that the gaps are pretty large.

Along one side, between shower base and wall tiles the gap is variable between about 12mm to 5mm. This gap was previously filled with a decent portion of plaster (possibly plaster board) and then sealed at the top/bottom.

Also, the shower door, frame should sit on top of the shower tray edge, but instead there is a gap of between 10-15mm. Again, they had filled the majority of the gap with plaster and then sealed top and bottom with silicon.

Overtime, the plaster on both gaps has obviously just dried out, cracked and moved and the sealant has just come away.

I couldn't believe this is the correct way to do it, so I have removed all the plaster. Or was I a bit hasty and is this a reasonable way to deal with it.

What other methods can I used to fill much a big gap (upto 15mm).

Thanks.


texts: Do z-wave products suffer any limitations in the UK because of radio limits?

texts:
I'm looking into home automation and I think I'm settling on z-wave as my choice. however, I was slightly worried by this comment on wikipedia;

  In Europe, the 868 MHz band has a 1% duty cycle limitation, thus a Z-Wave unit can only transmit 1% of the time. Z-Wave units can be in power-save mode and only be active 0.1% of the time, thus reducing power consumption substantially.

Does anyone know if this means that z-wave is limited in the UK? For example, does it mean that there are products and applications that are less capable in the UK than in the US, or product which can't be used? Or have I misunderstood?


texts: What can I do to ensure my pool doesn't freeze?

texts:
I live about 8 miles north of the Gulf of Mexico. It will be in the low teens (below freezing) in the morning. It will be record setting, so I'm not sure what to expect. The pump and equipment is in a heated room however I don't know what the temps could do to the pool and everything outside. It hit 32 F at 7:30 pm.

What can I do to prevent damage to the pool, pipes and pump?


texts: How to restore marble and granite surfaces?

texts: We have marble floors, walls and sink-top in our bathroom, and also granite counter tops in our kitchen. All of these look a little dull. How can we renew their shine?


texts:
While assembling a recently bought table, the top board fell down onto the floor due to my clumsiness. The result of which was a chipped corner, breaking the white varnishing and exposing what looks like medium or high density fiberboard.

How can I restore the filling and varnishing so that it looks closest to the original condition?

Here's what an intact corner looks like:


texts: I am installing a new vanity and the sink will be relocated about 12” off set from the exit pipe coming out of the wall. Is this a problem? And should the P-trap be located closer to the sink or nearer the exit pipe?


texts: How do I attach compression fitting to copper pipe that is bent?

texts:
I need to replace a compression union on some copper pipe that runs to my water heater.

I cut the pipe as close to the old union as I could, then tried to slide the compression fittings onto the pipe ends that will be joined. The water heater side fit perfectly into the compression fitting, but the other end is at the end of a long bend and would not fit into the fitting.

I can't replace the pipe that is bent without having to replace multiple connections. How do I get this bent pipe into the compression fitting?


texts: Thermostat White-Rodgers 1F82-261 switches to stage 2 heat for no apparent reason

texts:
I am running a central heat system that uses a heat pump as stage 1 and a gas furnace as stage 2. The thermostat used is the White-Rodgers 1F82-261 which supports 2 stages of heat.

When using regular heat mode on the thermostat and setting the temperature to 1 degree Celsius above actual temperature, I noticed that the thermostat was consistently switching to stage 2 heat after about 10 minutes running the heat pump. The manual of the thermostat mentions that stage 2 should only be used when the set temperature on the thermostat is 4 degrees above the actual temperature.

Is there another reason why the stage 2 would kick in prematurely? For example, I suspect that my ventilator is not pushing enough air for the heat pump and therefore may require lots of time before an actual temperature increase is noticeable. Would that be possible that the thermostat triggers stage 2 if no temperature increase is noticed for 10 minutes? There is no mention of that in the manual though.


texts: Energy efficient bulb takes a long time to get bright

texts:
Ive recently moved into a newly built house (im in the UK).

When I turn my bedroom light on it takes a long time to get up to full brightness which is quite annoying. Ive unscrewed the lightbulb to replace it but it has a fitting ive never seen before.

I want to replace the bulb with one that wont take so long to get bright. Do I have to buy one from the website on the bulb tp24.com, or is this a general fitting?

The bulb has the following on it:

tp24-2315
L1 GLS 15W

240V/50Hz 2700K


texts: Can I insulate my exterior walls myself using blow-in?

texts:
I live in western Washington, where we see plenty of rain, but only a month or two of freezing temperatures each year. My exterior walls are drywall with horizontal wood siding. I feel crazy as I write this, but I don't think there's any sheathing. The cavities are empty aside from any wiring.

I'm considering cutting holes high in the interior walls, blowing in insulation, patching, and painting.

Is this sort of wall suitable for insulation, and is this a project I can do myself?


texts: Why does the well pump continuously draw large current?

texts:
The pump is a submersible type around 100ft down. It is rated at 1.5 HP ~ 1.1 KW and is around 3 yes old. The manufacturer's spec sheet mentions a full load current of 9.2 A.

1.1KW/230 gives me a figure of 4.86A, or 6.88A.
The utility meter reports a PF 0.92

This is  single phase device with the line voltage nominally at 230V 50 HZ. At times it may be as high as 250V.

The meter mounted against the pump shows a **constant ** 11.x 9.7 A after it is powered, which I fail to understand. I can understand a starting surge upto the rated load current but not 200%.

Why is this the case?


texts: Concrete slab on pressure treated lumber

texts:
We want to cover up a hollow concrete box of 10' x 10' x 10' with concrete slab.
This will be on entrance of our new house.
My builder suggested to lay concrete slab on steel mesh supported by pressure treated timber support.
Is it a right method of laying concrete slab on hollow box?


texts: Help Identifying this Shower Faucet Cartridge

texts: I am "attempting" to fix our shower faucet and in feeling ambitious, I decided to take a wrench to the broken knob. To my pleasant surprise, the "cartridge" just popped out and I thought to myself "ok cool, just pop another one in and I'll be good". Unfortunately, there are no identifying marks on the cartridge or any of the hardware associated with the shower. I have spent hours looking online and I still have no idea what brand, let alone model it is. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am looking for the blue/white cartridge in the attached photo.


texts:
I was trying to disconnect a 220 50 amp breaker to replace with a 30 amp, changing function for the breaker.
When I disconnected the white wire from the neutral bar it jumps to 120 volts on the bar and 220 throughout my building shutting everything down.

When I reconnected the white white (the two hot leads already disconnected)and service was back to normal.
Tried disconnecting the white wire at the receptacle with the same results.


texts: Why is my concrete soft and crumbly after more than 14 hours?

texts: So I'm trying to create a concrete pencil holder but the last few times I've tried, the cement has not dried and comes out really crumbly and is soft and damp and dusty, even after curing all night. I'm using FastCrete cement which says it goes hard after 15 minutes. I'm a beginner in the whole concrete thing so I'm not sure what to do. Any advice?


texts: How to know when a fixture needs to be re-caulked?

texts:
I recently bought my first home, and am trying to be a good homeowner. I know that the bathtub, toilets, and sinks (anything else?) are supposed to be caulked well. I have no idea how long the current caulk has been there.  Nor do I know how to tell if it's still "good" or needs to be redone.

What should I look for to determine when it is time to go through the re-caulking process?


texts: What does the 26/6 mean in a pump rating?

texts: I've been told I need a 25/6 rated circulating pump for the central heating. What doe these numbers mean exactly. I want to know because I discovered my existing pump is rated for a 6m head.


texts: Do I need crushed rock under a rarely used rock paver walkway?

texts:
I am installing a rock paver walkway in my backyard. It won't be walked on frequently except by my dog. Approximate dimensions will be 9 x 4 feet. A base of about 4 inches of sand will be needed based on the size of the rocks I'm using.

Do I need a crushed rock base under the sand? I'm trying to do this as inexpensively as I can, because I'm only renting the house. I live in South East Pennsylvania if it matters.


texts: With post-build instant hot water systems should the homeowner be extra diligent about water heater maintenance?

texts: Instant hot water systems that are installed after a house is built use the cold water pipes to return hot water back to the water heater, or discharge that water through normal cold water use. (I imagine that systems that are installed during construction often have a dedicated hot-water return pipe.) This means that sediments from the hot-water pipes, generally contributed by the anti-corrosion rod, finds their way into the cold water system. This suggests that if you've installed one of these, you should be extra diligent about occasionally draining the water heater until the water runs clear. OTOH, it seems that normal cold-water usage ought to keep it fairly free of sediments, anyway. So which is true? Should you just drain the water heater occasionally as always, or more often?


texts: After noticing a burning smell in the kitchen and then smoke from the back of our GE Range, my wife and I discovered that the terminal block was incredibly hot and melting on one side. We unplugged, no fuses blew. The wires from the terminal block are not discolored but there is discoloration from heat around the oven element connections, the insulation around the leads is slightly charred. Can I safely replace the block and expect normal operation or is the discoloration around the element leads indication of a greater problem?


texts: Is the huge white metal grille on a ceiling called a "cassette AC". Is it supposed to be noisy?

texts:
I am looking to buy a house, but i'm worried about the AC noise. It has the compressor outside the house. The evaporator coil is inside the attic on top of the furnace. This attic is above the laundry.

So, every room has a little (around 10 by 5 inches) white metal grille on the ceilings to push the air in.

But the hallway ceiling has a huge (around 30 by 50 inches) white metal grille. Is it called a "cassette AC". Why is it so noisy ? What does it do ?

Maybe this is the normal noise level. I don't know. I can't ask my realtor, 'coz she will assure me everything is fine :)


texts: Does a 2100W angle grinder need an earth pin?

texts:
I have recently purchased a Makita 2100W angle grinder. It has just the live (L) and neutral (N) connectors unlike the one I previously used, which had a third protected earth (PE) connection.

Would it be better if I changed the connections to a 3 pin connector?


texts: Help me make this rabbet cut in the top edge of a cabinet wall

texts:
I need to route out an edge in a cabinetry side to allow a top mounted handle to recess when door of the adjacent cabinet opens.
I have a portable router that accepts 1/4” shank bits and I am trying to find a suitable bit to do this cut. Removing the panel is not an option. What you see on the photo is two 3/4” plywood boards stacked together, and I pretty much want to notch out all the way in of the outer board.
I can find 1/4” shank bits with changeable bearing sizes that can cut variety of width up/to 1/2, but their cutting length is just 1/4”.
I am pretty handy with woodworking tools but haven’t done wide variety of routing to know this. Is it possible to do multiple passes with a bit like this, each time going deeper into the frame to achieve the final 3/4” length? Thanks.


texts: I want to install the tub below with surround. How can I install the surround on only two walls leaving the end open?

texts:
These are the tub surround and tub style that I want to install.

Also does tub need to have its own CB?


texts:
I'm planning to put an ADU (accessory dwelling unit) studio apartment over my garage to use as an office / spare bedroom. The garage is about 50ft from the house, and my house is on a well system with a pressure tank in the basement of the house.
I'm unsure what I need to do to run water to the ADU-- does it need its own pressure tank setup, and if so, how does that work with the well pump pressure switch? I can't imagine the house pressure tank would be able to push water that far with any kind of pressure.
Thanks for any advice.


texts: Join 2" aluminum pipe between two 4"x4" treated lumber?

texts:
How can I attach an aluminum pipe to (2) 4"x4" pieces of pressure-treated lumber? The pipe would act as a rail.

It would be like this:

This is another example, but with a top rail:


texts: Should I try to remove backer board and leave the plywood subfloor in place?

texts: Currently I have ceramic tile in the main hallways of my house. I am looking to replace this with hardwood flooring and will potentially be performing the demolition work myself to save money. I know there is concrete board under the tile with plywood under that. I want to know, how easy it is to separate the concrete board from the plywood so as to reuse the subfloor (assuming it is in good shape). Is it worth trying to separate it, or just pull it all up and start fresh.


texts: Can I dig up next to my foundation to add height below my deck for storage?

texts:
The previous homeowner had a deck. Then he enclosed it. Then he dug out underneath it about 3-4 feet, cut into the foundation, and put a door from under the basement to under the deck. It's about 7ft high under there. I'm not sure if it's legal, or if he paid fines for it when he had to get it permitted to sell the house. It also has an entrance to outside, and has lattice work on the sides. We use it to store bikes, pool chemicals, shovels, and in the winter, firewood. We don't have any water issues with it, as he built up a stone and concrete wall around the area he dug up.

He also installed a patio that's not doing too well. I want to break it up and replace it with a deck. As an added bonus, I want to use underneath it as an extension of that storage space... But I'm not sure how much foundation is allowed to be exposed, or if this is safe at all. I will, of course, pour a concrete floor and walls for the underground portion of this.

This is Massachusetts, by the way... pretty sure I'm not on bedrock, and I know there's gravel and pipes underneath the basement floor if that information is pertinent. Part of the exposed foundation may end up being garage foundation, which may not even be as deep as the house foundation.. I'm not sure, though.


texts: Why does my bath fan turn off when light switch is on and vise versa?

texts:
I just put a new exhaust fan in the bathroom and connected it to existing light switch, which is connected to the bathroom light. When I turned the power back on, the bath light came on but not the fan. When I turned the switch off, the fan turned on and the light turned off.

I figured out that both the white and black on the switch coming from the light are both hot wires.

How do I connect my fan then to run from the same switch?


texts: What’s the ideal overhang for a 26’ LVL beam?

texts: We just installed 3 LVLs (3) x 1 3/4x 24” x 25’ . Can someone recommend the ideal overhang on the posts for a beam this long? The engineer recommended 8’’ hang on the post on each side, but my contractor only did about 4” on each side. I’m afraid that the overhang might not be enough considering the beam is 25’ long. Feedback is appreciated.


texts:
My air handler is supported by 2x4's which partially cover the filtered intake. I'd say there's 5-6" of blockage over the 21.5" filter size opening. Old air handler replaced after 12 years (due to outside coils leaking) was installed like this. I asked my contractor to fix this (twice) before installing a new unit, but they did not.

Is this going to negatively affect the performance or longevity of my split-system unit? Which parts will be affected? What is the proper method of supporting an air handler in a closet like this?


texts: please suggest some ideas for mounting tv on plywood . I need to do  clamp the lcd tv on the window. So i think it's better to cover the window using plywood first. After mount the tv on plywood . Is that good ? is there any suggestion, is there any other designs ?


texts: Change 1 gang switch two lights to 2 gang switch for each

texts:
Hi I have a single 1 gang switch that turns on two lights together, now I want to replace it with a single 2 gang switch to control both lights individually.

What I found behind the switch are 7 coloured wires. 1 red by itself, I know it is the live wire. Then three (red, green/yellow, black) from one light and another three from another light.

How they are currently connected is like this: the single red live wire into one slot, the two red wires from the two lights are twisted together into another slot. Then the two green/yellow wires are twisted together and the two black wires are twisted together.

In order to separate them, how do you connect them so that:

Option 1. each gang control each light

Option 2. light B can be controlled only when light A is on (i.e. if light A is off light B always off)


texts: What type of weather stripping for this door?

texts:
Steel basement door.  Original vinyl weatherstripping fit in a slotted metal track deteriorated after 40 years and no longer works.  As you can see daylight shines through which I'm guess means cold & hot air do too.

I tried this stuff but it was so thick the door would not close & latch properly:

What I ended up with was rubber foam tape that is not very good.  This is actually the 2nd time I've applied it as the adhesive wears out over time and the foam just dries out and flakes away (white strip next to dark strip):

The track the original seal was set in is pretty much non-removable.  The screws holding it in strip when I try to take it out.

Ideas?


texts: Can I adjust my blinds for both ventilation and privacy?

texts:
I like fresh air so I usually open the window a little and keep the blinds to the angle that I think nobody can see me from outside.

Today I feel very upset because I found out everybody can see me from the outside. I didn't know this about for two years.

Questions:

Is there any alternative solution that could satisfy my need for both ventilation and privacy?
Will it help if I replace the blinds in that window with big wood blinds?

I live in the U.S.


texts:
I have this large wooden box (2x4's and plywood) that I am making, with a single door (blue) on the front, hinged at the bottom. It might not be clear from my crappy sketch but the door is the full width, the sides (pink) are behind it when it is closed (it rests on the front edge of the sides).

This box has a top but it isn't shown; the top is also a hinged lid, and can't be latched to the front door, it needs to stay independent.

I need a locking mechanism that I can use to hold it shut (doesn't need a key, just needs to hold it shut). The problem I'm having is that due to this box's construction, the sides have an inch or two of flex in them (red arrows), they don't naturally line up with the door. This is OK but it means that I need a type of lock that can not only hold the door shut, but can also prevent side-to-side movement of the sides when it is locked.

Also because the sides of the door are flush with the faces of the side, the lock pretty much has to be mounted on the side. So basically I need a type of lock that can hold two surfaces flush and prevent them from being separated. That is, I need a lock that I can mount on the side that constrains movement in both the red and blue arrow directions in the sketch above.

The edge of the door is 1.5" wide.

Is there any type of lock like this? The locks I've seen so far are:

Barrel bolt lock: Won't work on the side since the bolt just slips right out, these can't prevent motion along the long axis of the bolt. Although if one existed that had pins on both sides...

Hasp lock with a twisty thing: Won't keep the sides flush with the door edge when locked:

Hook and eye: Pretty much the same problem as the hasp lock:

Gate latch: I don't think this would work, they aren't really designed to prevent movement along the long axis, and even though I might be able to find one where the ball on the end is big enough to not slip through the hole, it would have some play in it so wouldn't hold the door closed tightly, plus it would be super awkward to open and close:

Sash lock: The closest thing I've found to what I want so far, but even this doesn't quite work, it only prevents movement along one direction of the red arrows. Plus, they tend to be on the small side, being designed for windows, and so I'd be concerned about the mounting screw being so close to the edge of the wood:

I don't really know what other types of locks there are. What can I use for this?

I'm not too concerned about cost; I only need two of them (one for each side). I also don't need ultra high strength along the red arrows, the box won't really be holding anything that puts any amount of stress on the sides. What I do care about is longevity; the door won't be opened or closed particularly often but it does need to last for at least a few years.

I hope I've explained this clearly.

Edit: I think maybe something along the lines of this sketch could work, I'm not sure if there is a lock type like it that I could purchase, or maybe I can piece together some hardware. This would involve a barrel bolt lock on the front that slides through the hole in the tab:

Maybe something like that could work? As long as the slot for the tab is wide enough to account for the curved path of the closing door. I'd be concerned about the red arrow movement ripping out the screws holding the tab in place over time but if it was a T shape with a wider mounting plate and more screws, that could work.


texts: Do I need to "fill in" concrete control joints before floating floor installation?

texts:
I am preparing to install a laminate floating floor over a concrete slab in my basement.  The concrete slab is installed in what appear to be 18' x 18' squares, broken up across the dimensions of my basement.  The slabs are separated by 1/2" wide control joints.

Do I need to fill these joints in with a foam, concrete, or other kind of patch prior to installing a floating floor?  The flooring is the Home Depot Pergo flooring with built-in padding.  I am going to install a 6 mil vapor barrier on top of the slab prior to installing the flooring. The flooring will be installed perpendicular to the control joints.


texts: Why does half of the christmas led lights dim down?

texts: I have a strip of 3VDC (two AA in seires) christmas LED lights. 10pcs in one strip. I've been using a 18650 (4VDC), to make them shine brighter; after one week first half of them dims down from bright to low-bright when turned on. The other half stays bright all the way. What tha led is going on?


texts: Why does an LED light turn on and off irregularly while the switch is in the on position?

texts:
We have had a LED light in the family room for several months now. In the past week it has started to act funny. We turn on the LED light and after a while it turns off and then goes back on and then a little while later off and on again.  The time between turning off and on varies. Is this normal after several months of use? Is this an indicator the light is starting to burn out?  A malfunction? Or a short in the wiring?

The light is not loose in the socket as we checked that.

What should we do? I do not want to have fire result from this.


texts: Tiny House on a 8x 27 5th wheel RV frame.20 ft main frame 7 ft on 5th wheel top frame

texts: Rv is gone  100%  only frame and dual wheels  left. I'm wanting to build the walls and rafters from a metal material. size or grade which metal? no welding..  thought it better for weight.  will not be a traveling home.  hope to only have to move once to own land


texts: How do I secure a toilet bowl to a tile floor?

texts:
The bathroom in my house was redone right before I moved in. After moving in, I noticed the toilet is loose. It seems to only stay in place due to it's sheer weight, and it has quite a lot of jostle whenever it's sat on. The floor in the bathroom is ceramic tile.

How can I safely secure the toilet to the floor without risking ruining the title? Also, are there any plumbing issues to be corncerned about?


texts:
I just got a Nest E thermostat and I'm trying to hook it up. There is a blue wire that I had assumed was the "C" wire, but looking at the furnace, it doesn't look like that's the case, as the blue wire looks like its connected to the W2 terminal.

So my question is, is there something I can plug this blue wire into that will make it "live" so it will power my Nest? I think I can plug it into the B/C one, but can I just hook it in together with that existing white wire? The white wire goes with one of the yellow wires off to something other than my thermostat.


texts:
So I have a storage/utility room. High humidity (Indonesia). Dimensions approx 3.3 x 3m x 3m . It's still under construction, and there are no windows, just a door. Material is AAC (lightweight concrete) 60cmx20cmx10cm blocks to three walls, and red brick (dimensions maybe 20x10x5cm) to west wall.

There will likely be a washing machine in the room, maybe with integrated dryer.

I have an extractor fan (continuous: http://powerdiscount.co.uk/greenwood-cv100-constant-volume-continuously-running-extractor-fan-382-p.asp), which I plan to fit. But somebody pointed out there's no intake!

The room is obviously more-or-less square, and the walls adjoin (moving around clockwise) North: hall-way area, less airflow. East: outside, South: outside (but front of property and I'd prefer to avoid this, West: large open-plan room with very good ventilation to outside.

So it seems like if I extract the air out through the east wall then I need to suck air from the outside. So I need to put some kind of vent opposite on the west wall. What kind of thing should I be fitting?

Something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/M141-Marley-anodised-Aluminium-Louvered/dp/B009T5GOW0/

Or this? http://www.bhl.co.uk/rytons-multifix-airbrick-9-inch-x-3-inch-brown.html

How much do I need?

The area adjoining is an office area, so sound from the storage room is not really a big issue.


texts: How should I secure the inner ring of bearing race to a wooden frame?

texts: I have a fairly small ball bearing and am wanting to secure the inner ring to a wooden frame. The inner ring has a diameter of 5mm, although I'm unsure the best way to secure this. I could glue a small dowel to the frame and then perhaps lightly hammer the bearing onto the dowel, but I'm not sure if this is the best way. Perhaps somebody knows of a more reliable method?


texts: Can I put more than 8 cameras on an 8 channel camera system?

texts:
I purchased a Lorex 8 channel camera security system.  Everything works fine however, I would like to add additional cameras.
Can this be done using a POE switch?  The POE switch comes with 5 ports and 4 additional cameras.  When I look in the manual and on the site it says the device works for LNR Series camera systems.  The manual is very vague on this topic.  A local installer here says you can install but Lorex customer support says you cannot.
I'm not sure who is right in this situation.  If you read online the channel size indicates the number of cameras.  Mine is 8 channels which tells me 8 cameras...but if I use a POE switch can I not just add additional cameras?


texts: Can I pour concrete walls between these structural posts?

texts:
Background, long story short:  I have an old shed that is basically barn construction.  It's about 12' x 16'.  The thing used to sit on concrete walls and those walls deteriorated.  So I jacked it up, and put it on 6" posts, with deep concrete footings (~42"...it's Ohio).

Now that the building is once again solid, I need to finish the ground around it.

The building is built into a slope, where its front and one side are level with the yard.  So the slope runs diagonally across the building, front to back.  The front sits on an existing (and massive) concrete footer in the ground.  The side into the yard is my concern right now.

What I want to do is simultaneously contain the slope and provide enough of a finish to make the space under the building into useful storage.  The old concrete walls used to provide this, but now it's sitting on posts, so there is a lot of open space around it that I need to fill.  The side in question has two posts, at the halfway point and on the back corner.

Is there a way to build something between these posts that would serve as a retaining wall, while not interfering with the posts?  I'm open to ideas.

BTW...I'm not sure what tags are appropriate for this problem.


texts: help me interpret the results of an outlet tester on some GFCI receptacles

texts:
I'm trying to figure out what might be wrong with some exterior GFCI receptacles that I have.

The problem is that this is an old house, and I'm not really sure what is happening between the receptacles and the breakers.  Since the receptacles are all outside, the wiring to these receptacles runs underground, and I have no idea what junctions (or lack thereof) have been made.

I'm using a Commercial Electric GFCI outlet tester, like this one:

https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/cc6d7656-65fd-4f30-b66c-226d62c6f1fe/svn/multimeters-ce-hgt6120-64_1000.jpg

I've got four GFCI receptacles connected to two breakers.  Of these four, two are one model, and two are another model (I'm mentioning this in case different models of GFCI receptacles might have different behaviors).

On circuit breaker 1:

GFCI receptacle 1, model 1: lights up | OFF | OFF | RED | indicating BAD GROUND.  Pressing the GFCI button successfully trips the GFCI and the lights then switch to | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT (this doesn't make sense to me).

GFCI receptacle 2, model 2: lights up | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT.  Pressing the GFCI button successfully trips the GFCI and the lights then switch to | OFF | OFF | OFF | indicating OPEN HOT (or no power?).

On circuit breaker 2:

GFCI receptacle 3, model 1: lights up | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT.  Pressing the GFCI button successfully trips the GFCI and the lights then switch to | OFF | OFF | OFF | indicating OPEN HOT (or no power?).

GFCI receptacle 4, model 2: lights up | OFF | OFF | RED | indicating BAD GROUND.  Pressing the GFCI button has NO EFFECT.

My analysis:

I think GFCI receptacles 2 and 3 are fine and are behaving as a properly wired, properly grounded GFCI receptacle should behave with a GFCI outlet tester.
I think GFCI receptacle 4 is behaving as a properly wired, but not properly grounded GFCI receptacle should behave with a GFCI outlet tester.  As this receptacle is very near GFCI receptacle 3 which seems to be properly grounded, I'm thinking to just run an external ground wire from receptacle 3 to receptacle 4 and everything should be all set.
What the hell is going on with GFCI receptacle 1?  At first it seems like it is just another ground that isn't actually grounded, like GFCI receptacle 4. But why the hell does it change to | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT wiring when the GFCI breaker trips?  That makes no sense.


texts:
So, there's this pipe sticking out of the wall between my garage and the front porch. Occasionally, an amount of water seeps out of it, enough to pool eventually though I've never seen any water "running" out of it, unrelated to any weather, seems clear (though when the pool dries, there seems to be some residue left behind).

I have no idea what it might be draining from. There is nothing on the garage side of the wall (though the water heater/furnace is along that same wall in another corner, maybe 15' away).

Any input would be appreciated, and most importantly - does the draining indicate some problem that I need to deal with?

Thanks]1

Thanks to all who provided input. It looks like a lazy contractor pushed the drain line out the wall at the point of the concrete patio, instead of running it another 10' where it could have been pushed out the front-facing garage wall (where the drip would have landed on dirt).

I'll get a HVAC/plumbing guy to come and answer the question (what appliance is being drained, whether the amount draining indicates some kind of soon-to-be problem). But yes, management of any outflow will be dealt with via a planter of some kind, rather than redirecting the line at this late date.

For those who might be curious, I captured outflow for the last 7 hours (0630-1330): 26 oz of clear water, no visible residue. Over that period, used water heater (hubby ran a large bath, I took a long shower, ran dishwasher) and the furnace (relatively briefly after being off overnight). What that might tell anyone, I have no idea (!) but there it is.


texts:
I have a cabin at the bottom of my garden (photos attached) and am thinking about hanging a punchbag from the roof beams. I absolutely do not want the structural integrity of my cabin compromised but i was wondering if a 100lb punch bag would hang safely (and be punched) from the beams in the picture? Or if not are there any small changes I can make to increase the structural stability of the beams.
The size of the beams are 115mm x 40mm x 5000mm and there are 2 screws in each roof board with a light felt roof on the exterior.


texts: What is the best way to insulate a room with glass window for winter?

texts: Winter is approaching and I have heard that some people insulate glass windows and balcony doors during winter to preserve heat. What materials can I use to do this? I am living in a rented apartment, so I would like to have something which I can easily remove, when it is not needed.


texts: Are there outdoor formaldehyde detection systems available?

texts:
We have a nearby factory polluting air with formaldehyde and when the wind occasionaly brings it to us we sense the smell and are forced to close the windows to not let it in. When the wave subsides we can open the windows again. It would be convenient to have an outdoor sensor giving an alarm when the level starts rising to give us time to close the windows before it starts to get in and notifying us when the level is back to normal so that we can open the windows again.

Are there such solutions available on the consumer market? I know there are industrial solutions but those are expensive and not available to individuals.


texts: How can I build my own water aeration system for radon mitigation?

texts:
My house has a well. The well pumps water into a pressure tank in my basement. The pressure tank sends the water through a small whole-house filter and into the plumbing.

I have high radon levels in the water.

My plumber says he can install an aeration system for $6500 to $8500. I asked the state's drinking water office about cheaper alternatives. The reply included this:

  If you wish to use aeration, you could develop your own equipment
  setup (with a packed media tank, a blower, and a booster pump).

As I understand it, an aeration system involves an air pump that blows bubbles evenly through the water and a fan that blows that radon-rich exhaust outside. That seems straightforward.

But I can't find any instructions online about how to build such a system. Where do I find the materials? Is there a risk of cultivating bacteria in the water by adding another tank?


texts: Why wouldn't a 130 volt BR 40 bulb work in my recessed light fixture?

texts:
Background:

I noticed that light bulbs in our house burn out too frequently. We don't get even 1/4 the life-span that is advertised. This is frustrating.

Some ten years ago when CFL's came, I tried them and was disappointed completely. The cost was much more than the regular ones and the life-span did not change much either.

When I asked a Home Depot associate he said, it is likely that our house has Voltage spikes and that is contributing to the low life of bulbs. Sounds like a reasonable explanation. He suggested I try 130 volt bulbs. I think the bulbs are lasting longer.

Question:

When I plugged in a regular 130 volt bulb into a recessed light socket (this has Br-30 or Br-40 bulbs) I noticed that the bulb won't light. When I used the same bulb in a regular light socket, it will come on.

When I tried 120 volt Br-30 bulb the recessed light socket, it came ON. This suggests the socket is working.

Can someone explain why this could be.

Could someone recommend a 130 volt Br-30 / Br-40 bulb.


texts: The picture shows the crack over a door. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the extra load/movement in that area. What's the best way to fix this crack that will prevent this from re-occurring in the future?


texts: How many sizes larger do I need to go to fix a cross threaded screw?

texts:
Generally, how much bigger should a new screw be so that it doesn't interfere with the crossed threads that have already been made but sits as if it had been tapped freshly?

People generally seem to go just one size larger but wouldn't one ideally want that the "solid shaft" of the larger screw exceeds the diameter of the "solid shaft + thread height" part of the older screw for best results?

Sorry if my terminology is poor - but I hope it conveys what I'm asking.


texts: How can I repair some broken patio stones?

texts: The patio around my pool has shown some cracks recently, and today a piece about as big as my fist fell off. What is the best way to repair the broken piece, and what kind of preventative maintenance can I take to maintain the life of the patio?


texts:
I have a wood countertop w/ dark water stain damage, I'm looking for ways to fix.
I tried sanding and it just made the area around the stain lighter.


texts: Looking for alternatives to AutoCad to make floorplans and interior elevations for my kitchen

texts:
I am looking to remodel my kitchen. I want to start with floorplans and inside elevations of the 4 walls, cabinets, and major appliances. I've been using LibreCAD because it supports Autocad 2000 format (dxf) and is free and open source.

I've been struggling with LibreCAD, so I want to know what is the best Open source or web based app out there for a non-architect to make 2D floorplans and elevations, and save them in dfx format.


texts: How can I add flooring to an attic floor with electrical wires running across it?

texts: Want to floor attic space that has electrical wires tacked to joists.  is the best way to notch out additional boards over wires and add to the top of these joists and then floor?


texts: How can I avoid repainting a wall after removing pictures?

texts: I have off-white walls and when I removed some pictures recently, I filled the holes with spackle but there are still some areas that visibly show where the holes were. I don't want to have to repaint. Any ideas?


texts: How do I seal the bottom plate along my foundation?

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I have a "steps" in the foundation where there are slim but visible openings to the outside. My questions are; How do I seal this? From the outside/inside? What product do I use?

Edit: Picture of complete wall


texts: Should I turn the hot water tank off or turn it down on extended vacation?

texts: I am going to FLA for winter this year. I will turn off my water to my home, and set my thermostat at 55 for my 4 month absence. Should I also turn my hot water tank off? Or should I turn to lowest setting?


texts: How can I remove flaking (likely lead based) paint from very rough, exterior stucco?

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Here's a similar type of stucco to what I have:

Mine is light yellow but similarly rough-seas wavy like this picture. Mine is also now looking pretty dingy and I would like to repaint. Upon closer inspection I found that the paint on there now is flaking off in thin, holey flakes. I read that this is a good indicator of lead-based paint; my house was built in 1925 so this would not surprise me in the least.

I started calling around to abatement places but got the runaround. I feel like I could do this myself. But I'm not usually very careful about keeping a surgically clean work area or cleaning up super perfectly, and if this is something that is required with lead paint then I might be better off paying somebody to do it for me.

But if not ... how would I go about doing it? Chemical or UV lamp? How would I need to set up drop cloths to catch the flaky bits that fall off? How to I need to dispose of it? Would welcome detailed instructions from anybody with experience.


texts: Balancing the heavy garage door by adjusting a torsion spring

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I installed Chamberlain MyQ MAX B970 w 1 1/4HP in one of two door garage about a year ago, and I've noticed recently that its motor has been making a harder than usual noise. Then, I checked the garage door balance and it was not balanced at all. It is heavy to lift open.  So I tried to adjust the balance by winding the torsion spring with torsion spring unwinding bars and a vice cramp locking the rod  as a tutorial video on the web.  I made 3 quarter turns but the door was not balanced (still heavy to open) so I was gonna make more turns but the spring would not turn.

My question is whether I am going right direction to wind.  I went from bottom to up in the image. Also, should I really force it to wind ?