texts: Effective way to remove trapped lint inside blower wheel? Maytag mgd8630hw0

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I have a less than year old maytag mgd8630hw0 gas dryer. The dryer is on the second floor and vents through the roof.

About 3 months ago the dryer started making a loud banging noise so we call the repair company. The guy came out, took everything apart and then cleaned out the lint stuck in the blower wheel with a set of pliers (might have the wrong part name - I am talking about the area under the lint screen and before the rea exhaust). He said if I used a lint brush and regularly vacuumed I should be able to keep it under control (it would be great to install a automated suction blower in the piping, but that is a big undertaking since I don't have easy electrical access in the attic currently).

In any event, last week the dryer started really pounding (it was also a large load), afterwards I did everything I could to try to clean the dryer, I even got behind it and tried vacuuming out from the back...

The problem is that it's very hard to actually get into the area where all the lint is stuck. It's really in there, I tried both vacuuming and blowing. I am hesitant to try to take everything apart myself to manually get in their with pliers, it also seems crazy to have to do every 2-3 months in order to keep this area free of excess lint leading to noise and problems.

I've run the dryer since, and it makes less noise, but I know there is still a lot of lint stuck in there because I have one of those endoscope cameras and I was able to snake in to take photos (below).

I saw in this post that the OP removed his outlet grill and was able to get in there a bit better. When I tried this, I got all the screws out but it still felt like something was wedged and I was worried I might pull to hard and snap the plastic.

tl;dr is there any secret way or special tool that I can use to get into this area? Or it it normal to have some build up of lint in this area - if so how much is acceptable?

I've tried a flexible grabber, brushes, vacuums, blowing, etc. I either can't reach it or can't maneuver it enough to really get much of anything for the amount of effort and time I put in. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to access from the back because there is a small opening and a turn at the end reaching in from the back.

Where I am trying to clean/access:

Photos of the lint trapped inside:

As you can see, it looks like these fins have a lot of lint packed into sheets so I don't think any amount of suction or blowing is going to help unless I could really find a way to get in there or seal it off.


texts: Wiring smokes in series: one smoke beeps a lot

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We wired three smokes. However, every so often (but always in the middle of the night) one of them starts beeping. I suspect that it is not actually being powered by electricity, but off the battery.

I wired them so that smoke A goes to a junction box. Then from the junction box to smoke B and from the junction box to smoke C. (All via attic access) Does this mean that they are not really in series and therefore explains why smoke B misbehaves?

(Or perhaps my wires are just loose and I need to check the wiring in the box, which I am going to do right now).
Thx, Catherine


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The deck is nearly finished but I have a small structural problem with the pergola.  A left or right force near the top of the pergola (such a a tall person leaning on the post) leads to a bit of noticeable wobble.  Everything is rock solid at the deck level, and there is no wobble in the in/out direction. The span is 12' from post to post.  The beam is 2x6 cedar, with 2" x 2" notches where the pergola joists connect with a six inch screw coming in from the top.

I'm thinking up putting 2x6 cedar diagonals at the posts to the beam, connecting at the first pergola joist on each side (20" from post) at a 45 degree angle.  Does this sound like the right thing to do?  Is 20" enough?  The next joist would be at 40" from the post, and would come down too low.

[(http://i.stack.imgur.com/rstJD.jpg)

This is an exaggerated view of the flex.

RESOLUTION:
I've added one 2x6 45 degree brace in the upper right corner.  It stabilized it significantly.  I'll put up the other side when time allows.

FINISHED: Rock Solid now.


texts: If I install a 30 amp breaker in my breaker box, can I use 15 amp outlets on the circuit, provided none of the appliances used exceed 15 amps?

texts:
I have a shed that has outlets wired with either 14 or 12 gauge wire and 15 amp receptacles. I already know that my total usage will be almost 30 amps.
If I use a #10 on the first receptacle and a 30 amp breaker, can the other outlets use 12 or 14 gauge wire? Or do ALL the outlets have to have #10 wire? Can I even still have 15 amp outlets or do I need 30? I know next to nothing about wiring.


texts: How do I connect a single pole light switch with three 2-wire cables in box?

texts: In a bedroom a “friend“ removed the light switch. I have no idea if it was a single or double.  There are 3 cables coming into box with 3 wires each, black, white and copper. One of the black is constant hot.  I have read many articles looking to put in a single pole ( or double) pole light switch and I am so confused. Could you “dumb down” an answer for me. There are 3 outlets and an overhead light, 2 of the outlets work.   Thank you for any info you can give me.


texts: laying hardwood floor in the basement over concrete and vinyl

texts: I'm laying hardwood flooring in the basement, I was told that I can lay the wood over the vinyl but how do I level the vinyl is it true that I can use roof shingles?


texts: Why might my water (hot and cold) be discolored/brown

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For a couple of months, we've been noticing that our water is brown or discolored.  It comes from both faucets. This morning I had run nothing but cold water and noticed it had a brown tint to it.

First we thought it was only hot water, so we replaced the hot water tank and expansion tank which were filthy.  But the brown water has come back.

I've called neighbors and they don't seem to have an issue.  One neighbor says his water is slightly off color every once in a while. But I don't think it is as bad as mine.  He's knowledgeable and hasn't seemed concerned about it.

Since its hot and cold water, it has to be a shared line right? Which would be between the street and the house, right?
But it comes and goes which seems strange.  It seems like if there was a crack in a pipe, dirt couldn't get in due to the water pressure, but I don't really know. We did have heavy equipment on the lawn last year and we do have a sprinkler system. But we haven't run the sprinkler in weeks and we're getting brown water today. I also called the town water department a while back and they said no one else has reported an issue.

I really don't want to have a plumber come and just start replacing everything and tearing up my lawn just to rule stuff out. So any advice, input, or personal experience would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.


texts:
Can a central air gas furnace, gas dryer, electric washing machine, gas water heater be in same room (12x8ft) in the basement?

dryer has its own vent to outside,
Gas water heater, seems to use the same chimney as furnace?

What and how many appliance can share a room?


texts:
I've heard anecdotally that mold will glow green under a black light (UV light). Is this true?

There's a room in my house with a musty odor, and I'm trying to determine the source of the smell. There's a substantial amount of unpainted wood - here is a sample of what it looks like under an ultraviolet light:

(Photo specs: 1s f/4.5 exposure under 2 48" 36W T8 UV lamps.)

Does this indicate mold growth in the wood? (Freshly cut wood exposed to the same UV light does not reflect the same green-yellow color.) I have tried cleaning the surface of the wood with mold/mildew cleaner, to no effect. My understanding of mold growth is limited and I'm having a hard time coming up with reliable information about it.


texts: What can I do about a hole for a dryer vent that was cut too big?

texts: Our basement dryer vent was cut too big. There's a gap of approximately 2" all the way around. We want to fill it (crickets, and cold air in winter come in).  I bought a can of spray insulation but am worried about using it. Is there a flat cover/collar that would cover the excess hole?  Or should we make one?


texts: Is this small stepped crack under window a worry?

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We recently bought a house, nothing like subsidence come up on our survey, we went for a full survey.
We have noticed a small stepped crack under the window outside the front. No evidence of any issue else where. And the window is a fairly new replacement by the old owners.
Our house is a mid stepped terrace house. Does this just need repointing or could there be a problem?
The crack is less than 2mm wide


texts:
I am moving into my house in a few weeks, and I want to get a general purpose drill for use around the house. I learned that there are different types of drills: power drill, hammer drill, and impact drill. Also, I've seen drills that are 8V all the way to 20V.
I want to use it for making holes in drywall for hanging TVs, picture frames, etc... I also want to be able to use it to assemble furniture, for example from Ikea.


texts: Do I need an 100A or a 200A current transformer to measure total current draw at my home?

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I would like to monitor total current draw at my home from my 200A electrical panel. I have L1, L2 & N (a typical three-wire single-phase distribution in an North American home). Assuming I have a perfectly balanced panel, I would assume that I need only a 100A CT on L1 and a 100A CT on L2. Am I correct?

Since we do not know if it is perfectly balanced, I assume it would be a good idea to put a 200A CT. Please let me now if this is incorrect.


texts:
I'm building a pot rack that will hang from my ceiling and I want to make sure it is secure.  I rigged up a hanging apparatus that consists of a 1/2" x 12" bolt, two lock nuts, a 3/8" pipe floor flange, and two deck screws.  The deck screws will be directly embedded into a solid ceiling joist.

I'd like to know generally, how much downward weight can a bolt like mine hold before the threads strip and fail.  I'd also like to know the same thing regarding the deck screws.  I couldn't find any sort of general chart or stats online.  I included pics of my parts:


texts: AFCI breakers - 30mA ground fault detection threshold - nuisance trips?

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I'm trying to understand a bit about nuisance-tripping, and I'm wondering if anyone here has some insight.

I know (or think I know) that a Class A GFCI breaker should trip when there is a 6mA ground current (fault). I've also read that an AFCI breaker will generally trip when there is a 30mA ground current.

So my question is: are nuisance trips more likely on a GFCI due to that lower threshold (6mA), compared to AFCI (30mA)?

I apologize if my terminology isn't correct. I think I know what I'm asking, but... maybe not.

People seem to indicate that you should never use GFCI protection on your refrigerator due to the possibility of nuisance trips. But AFCI protection is required. I'm assuming the AFCI is less likely to nuisance-trip, and maybe this 6mA-to-30mA comparison explains why? The 30mA is low enough to mitigate fire risk, but high enough that most nuisance trips are avoided? (Whereas with a GFCI, the 6mA threshold is low enough to mitigate most risk of shock injury, but makes it more susceptible to nuisance trips?)


texts: Are soffits required over kitchen cabinets?

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I am remodeling my kitchen and took down all the drywall and took off all the soffits/bulkheads. I had a plumber shift the pipes up to make room for 36" cabinets. Question: do I need to frame/drywall new soffits, or can I just install the cabinets and then trim out the top of the cabinets with crown/casing to close that space (which is full of wires and PEX plumbing). Is there any any benefit to closing in that area first with 2x3 framing and drywall, and then installing the cabinets right up to it?
Update: were these soffits unnecessary?


texts: Should I add Floetrol / XIM Latex Extender to my Exterior Acrylic Latex Paint?

texts:
I painted my front door (metal) with Sherwin-Williams Emerald Exterior Satin (Acrylic Latex) and the result is not super. The paint dries so fast that I ended with multiple brush marks and roller marks. Because of panels on the doors, I have to use a brush and a roller.

After some online research, I found out about paint additive (e.g. Floetrol, XIM Latex Extender). According to what I read online (mostly online reviews...), those additive help getting rid of the brush and roller marks and makes it easier to apply.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Flood-Floetrol-Interior-Exterior-Paint-Conditioner-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3376244

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Floetrol-1-qt-Clear-Latex-Paint-Additive-FLD6-04/100198078

Have you ever tried to add Floetrol / XIM Latex Extender to your paint? Does it really help? If it helps so much, why Sherwin Williams does not add it to its paints? Thanks!


texts: How should I run stripped cable through conduits?

texts: I have a 6/3 NM-B cable that is to be run through a Southwire Ultratite conduit to an external outlet for a generator.  I plan to strip the cable prior to threading through the conduit: 1. for ease of passage; 2. for thermal issues. Just wondering what is the protocol for where the stripped section should start - just outside the conduit, or just inside? Also, the Ultratite fitting at the back of the outlet box has no provisions for clamping the wires in place.  Can I presume then, that in this instance, clamping is not necessary as long as the wire is firmly anchored before entering the conduit run?


texts:
As part of a kitchen renovation, the designer would like us to install sconce lights above the window over the sink. This is a load bearing exterior wall and there is a solid header across the top of the window, so I'm just not sure how to get the wires to the sconces.
I realize I can mount pancake boxes, but I'd have to cut a groove or something in the header to run the wires.
Any ideas for how I could safely wire up these sconces?


texts: Does a copper or brass 1/2 or 3/4 to GHT fitting exist?

texts:
I have been searching for this for some time and maybe someone else has seen one. I am looking for a normal 1/2 or 3/4 sweat to 3/4 male GHT (garden hose threaded) fitting, needs to be brass or copper.
I need this in a GHT version.

The closest thing I've been able to find is a 1/2 sweat hose bibb with a 3/4in GHT output, which I'm not sure I want for this but may have to work if I can't find the proper solid fitting. I can find MIP/NPT fittings but cannot find a GHT fitting and I'd prefer not to use an additional adapter if possible. Does anyone know if this fitting exists? Seems like it would be common but apparently not.


texts: I tried to change an old chandelier, but when I removed the ceiling rose all I have is an earth and one large brown cable and a block connector with red, blue and earth each side of connector but not attached to light.


texts:
I'm trying to replace my A/C drain pipe. It was draining into an old PVC pipe contraption that did nothing - water was leaking all over the brick and foundation.
I pushed the PVC to the side and connected the drain line to a 10 foot clear vinyl tube from Home Depot - UDP 1 in. I.D. x 1-1/4 in. O.D. x 10 ft. Clear Vinyl Tubing.
Note that there are two metal drain lines coming out of the brick wall. The top one does not have any water exiting it - it's only the bottom drain line with the clear vinyl tube attached.
The distance from the drain line to the edge of the concrete is around 12 feet. The 10 foot tube I installed isn't long enough to reach, so I ran if off to the side. While the water does drain into the pine straw successfully, there is standing water in the middle of the tube at its lowest altitude.
Should I return this 10 foot tube and buy a 12 foot tube and run it to the edge of the concrete? If so, is there anything I should connect the end of the tube to? Or is there a completely better approach? I'm completely new to this and have no idea what I'm doing.

The old PVC drain was leaking water all over the brick and foundation so I replaced it with a clear vinyl tube secured with a zip tie

The 10 foot clear vinyl tube runs out to the pine straw

There is standing water in the middle of the tube at its lowest altitude

This tube is only 10 feet, but I could buy a 12 foot minimum tube and just run it directly into the pine straw at the edge of the concrete

The water is draining into the pine straw


texts: Does double brick chimney need liner for vented gas logs?

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We have a 100-year-old house with a double brick chimney, meaning there's an inner and an outer brick wall.  The inner wall is reportedly in not-great, somewhat deteriorated shape.  There is no clay or other lining, just a brick and mortar inner layer.

I'm wondering, could it ever be safe to use a chimney like this?  It's my understanding that most of the flammable deposits that burning wood creates won't be present when using vented gas logs.

I have received three conflicting opinions by professionals, each possibly with a profit motive to be less than honest.  One of the companies insisted that it would be unsafe to use the chimney without adding a modern liner, but based on evidence, they seemed to be the least trustworthy.


texts: Will I lose water pressure going from a 2" pipe to a 1/2" pipe then back to 2"?

texts:
I have jimmied up a pool heater from an idea on YouTube, but just expanded it.  I have a water line of 2" PVC, piped down to 1/2" copper, so it can run through a coil, then increased back to 2" PVC, and re-connected with the original pool hose of 2".

Will this keep the constant pressure that it starts with, or will I lose water pressure. It seems to have lost pressure, trying to get back into the 2" inch hose. Any suggestions?


texts: Why is my radiator not getting hot water or have air in it?

texts:
All except one radiator are working fine. The one that stays cold is in the room with the thermostat, so the system keeps running more than it should.

I tried bleeding it and just water came out. I let it bleed for some time and the pipe which comes down from the ceiling did slowly warm up, but the radiator never got warm the next day the pipe was cold again. The pump was replaced a year or 2 ago and seems to be working fine.

It worked last year. Could there be some sort of blockage? If so, what can I do about it? We are in a hard water area.


texts: I'm replacing the toilet connector hose because there's a leak from the bowl. I've tried to remove the old connector hose but the metal piece in the pic will not detach. It spins when I use a steel adjustable wrench but no movement otherwise.Any ideas on how to get it off?


texts: What is a better base for skid foundation, gravel or crushed stone?

texts:
Building a skid foundation for a shed. What is the best material to put under the skids for stability/leveling. Uniform gravel (like this) or crushed stone like a 5/8 minus?

Thanks,


texts: What is a good uPVC window or wooden double glazed replacement window solution?

texts:
I am looking at replacing old sash windows with uPVC windows. Is this a good idea for a four-bedroom house?

Some say sash windows have advantages, but most say go with uPVC. Perhaps a wooden double glazed replacement is the answer. Anyhow, I hope someone can shed light.

Thanks, being in Leicester means I dont see that much inspiring me outside of the grove where I live. anyway, I found these ones for the benefit of others in the area. Having spoken to a rep, and getting thumbs up from a friend, think I will remove the sashes myself, and then get these guys to do the uPVC. Hope I can get it done by summer.

http://www.doubleglazingleicestershire.com/windows-leicestershire.html


texts: Best way to attach a wooden frame to the pole?

texts:
Same pole on each side. Wanting to put 2 doors, each 8ft h x 5ft w, leading to carport need to control dust, I have the door construction idea based on how I am able to make a frame. Thinking drill holes and attach with bolts, can't weld, don't want to damage poles, deforming shape, but holes are acceptable if only option.
Any suggestions appreciated,  planning to use foam padding against the rock wall so mainly just don't want the frame to be able to rotate when opening and closing the doors.  Thank you.

First time asking please excuse any errors in terminology.


texts: why do my led lights stay on, even when the switch is off, and what does that cost to my bill

texts: I'd like to know what the cost implication there is in continual use of my led fitting that remains partially on even when the switch in off


texts: Are smaller or larger pavers better for covering a concrete patio?

texts:
I have a large ( 16' x 16' ) thick slab concrete patio that is pouted in 8 x 8 blocks. it has significant spalling and some settling. The concrete is 6" thick and situation in such a way that tearing out the concrete would not be ideal ( not to mention other than the spalling its not in bad shape ). I've considered trying to re-surface or re-pour a layer of concrete over the existing slabs, but now I'm considering just trying to lay concrete pavers over it. I'm wondering ( other than aesthetics ) if there are advantages and disadvantages to using smaller or larger pavers in this application.

Ive considered these two options thus far
http://low.es/1WD4biM
http://low.es/1WD4fiK

and looking for some feedback.


texts: Needing to add an outlet but confused why builder used 14-3 wire on a non-switched outlet

texts:
I am trying to add an outlet behind my tv by picking off the outlet below it.  When I took off the outlet cover I noticed its in the middle of a run and the builder (house built in 2000) had used 14-3 Romex.  I'm a bit confused since its not tied to any switches.  There are two lines of Romex coming into holes in the box, so each twist is bundling three wires (two hots + pigtail) and (two neutrals + pigtail), same with the ground.
I want to run 14-2 Romex out the top of the box to my new tv outlet and I'm wondering:
A. Can I just attach the new new Romex to the sides of the duplex outlet? (Of course I'd have to bundle the grounds).
B. Or should I just get new twists (yellow? beige?) that accommodate 4 wires and attach the new Romex that way, instead of connecting to the outlet?
C. Is it even safe to have this much wire stuffed into a single box?  Thanks for any advice.
Photos below


texts: Found PVC while digging, what is the purpose of the pipe I hit?

texts:
So I didn't call before I started digging because I was replacing an existing fence and I just made the assumption there would be any issue in moving the post hole a little bit. As luck would have it I hit two different types of pipes when digging the new holes. Any ideas on fixes for this or what this even is?

Not the sprinkler line as when i turned on the sprinklers no leaking occurred. Nothing came leaking out of either one and getting a current clamp tomorrow to see if the black one is electrical.


texts: What should I do about a gap between a kitchen backsplash and the cupboards?

texts: Theres a small gap between the backsplash and cupboards,  the gap is too small to cut strips of backsplash to Make it look normal.  I have run out of ideas.  Any of you pros got any ideas?


texts:
My bathroom sink got severely clogged up. I'm a structural engineer, but I have no aptitude whatsoever to DIY. This, however, I felt was within my reach, so I decided to give it a try. (Also, I'm Brazilian, so forgive any incorrect terminology)

I unscrewed the trap, removed it from under the sink and removed the snake of gunk that'd completely clogged the inlet.

My problem is in putting everything back together. This is what I have:

The only variable I'm unsure of is the rubber ring (seen around the top of the pipe on the first picture). I don't remember where it was when I removed the pipe. In the picture, it's pushing up against a lip at the end of the pipe, but it may not actually belong there.

If I place it over the pipe, trying to align the pipe, the ring and the drain before screwing everything with the nut, it leaks (I tried some three times).

If I place it where it is shown in the picture (beneath the lip), I have some trouble getting the nut past it (I have to turn the nut around and it slowly moves past the ring). Eventually I get it into position, but after I screw it onto the sink and open the tap, it leaks again (though it takes a few seconds). (I also tried this three or four times).

I've done some googling but, though I've found dozens of links and videos on replacing the strainer, this seems to be so trivial no one's bothered.

Many videos mention a gasket at the mouth of the trap, but it's always shown embedded into the nut. I'm unsure if this is a different mechanism or if this ring is that gasket which has come loose. The latter would mean my attempt with the ring where it is shown should work, but perhaps I'm missing something (should I use putty or thread seal tape around the drain?).


texts: How can my furnace exhaust fan run with the power off, the thermostat off, and the breaker off?!


texts: The original builder (USA, ca. 2006) ran exposed NM/romex between the fixtures. Maybe this is a nebulous question, but is that within code?


texts:
I have two 3" x 3" square holes on a sports court. They are around 2' deep. They take two long poles that support a net.

When the poles are not in the holes they fill with water when it rains (mosquito breeding area) and are a trip hazard.

Question: How can I cover these holes where the cover will be flush with the surface of the court?

What I'm currently thinking of doing, not sure if it's the right approach: Buy a 3x3 piece of lumber (surprisingly hard to find) and cut 2' lengths from it and stick those in the holes.

Problems I see with that:

Home Depot and Lowes don't have 3x3 wood listed on their sites.
When it gets wet I am guessing that it would swell and be difficult or impossible to remove. (I'm also guessing that there's something I could treat it with to make it water proof.)
It would be difficult to get out even when dry. (Thinking that a small hole in the middle of the end with a sunken eye screwed into it would allow me to lift it.)

If you think that my current approach of putting a block of wood in there is the right approach then I'd love to hear suggestions about how to do it to solve the problems that I forsee. Otherwise if you have a better idea to solve this...


texts:
First off ---- I am by no means an electrician.

That said, I have a dimmer switch that needs to go..and be replaced by a new one. However, upon searching the internet and reading the instructions several times over, I am stuck. The dimmer being replaced is from 1978 (original to the house). I have attached photos of the new one, the old one (still attached the house) and the instructions. All the help they have been was saying, "consult an electrician if what is on the wall doesn't match the paper..."

Please note that the wires attached to the switch are all black, they just have over-spray from painting on them. Additionally, there is a ground in the back but I don't know which is the positive or which is the negative.

I appreciate any and all help! I can easily provide more pictures if needed or information.


texts:
The structure of my 1960s italian sofa has a medium density foam molded around it. (In the pictures, it's the orange stuff, it's called Bayfit foam). The foam has developed significant cracks (or tears). How best to repair or reinforce the foam?

I'm thinking maybe of a spray foam or glue into the cracks or somehow bonding some reinforcing material over the entire surface?


texts: How to form curved concrete seat for bench with back?

texts:
The contractor seems very unsure of procedure.  He has put some very thin plastic around the front edge of the curve, holding it in place with wide black plastic tape.  It is about 1.5 inches tall.  The plastic strip looks like something that would be a corner bead for sheet-rock, not for concrete.  It has holes in it. To close the holes, he taped it; and he only taped it after I asked him what would keep the concrete from oozing into the holes and binding that plastic to the concrete so it couldn't be removed easily when the concrete sets.

He says after he puts the concrete in that, he will pour it deeper and put another plastic strip upside down on the edge to give a rounded finish, and smooth it off with a trowel. We want a seat about 3 inches thick, and he says 2.5 inches is enough.

I asked how that concrete is going to stay there without a mold, or bender board, or something, while he is working on it with a trowel, etc.  and he testily replied that it would be fine.

He plans to pour this in the morning.  This question on this site may be too late for us, but may be of interest to others.


texts: How can I measure water/moisture content within a wall cavity?

texts: Related to improper placement of a vapour barrier within wall insulation, are there any tools or methods for measuring water/moisture content within a wall cavity?


texts: Can I pull a new single conductor alongside an existing 14/2 wire for a fan+light install?

texts:
In my bathroom, I have a 2-gang switch box. One switch controls the light bar above the sink, and one controls the fan. I have a new fan, which includes a light. I want to wire the light on the fan to be on the same switch as the light bar, and so this requires 2 switched hots in the fan box; I only have 1.

Do I need to pull a new 14/3 wire from the switch box to the fan box, or can I just pull a new single conductor and use it alongside the existing 14/2?

Located near Houston, TX, not sure what version of the NEC we have to follow.


texts: Size of circuit breakers for 220v circuit

texts:
I'm considering a piece of shop equipment with a motor that can be wired as 110-volt (20-amp) or 220-volt (10-amp). I'm leaning towards 220v despite the additional cost of installing the electrical outlet.

The equipment vendor says the minimum circuit should be 15-amp. Initially, I was planning to request each leg be 20-amp (40-amp total) but after digging into this, I'm wondering if 10-amp on each leg would be sufficient considering the circuit minimum is 15-amp.

If I have the new outlet to power this machine wired as 220-volt, will the circuit breakers in the box need to be 15-amp total or 15-amp on EACH 110-volt leg?


texts: Can I install used carpet that's been removed from another home?

texts: My carpet is about 25 years old now and it's time to go.  I know some people rip carpet out of new homes because they're laying down hardwood.  Any issues I should be aware of? (I like the idea of recycling instead of buying new)  Thanks!


texts: Should we sand a fence to restain it with a solid stain?

texts: We have a fence made of pressure treated lumber and stained with a solid stain.  If we want to restain it with the same stain just to freshen it, should we sand it? Or power wash it? or both?  - the stain is in pretty good shape. Thanks!


texts:
OK, so I am wiring my cabin (actually a small house, 16x24), and I have a 6x8 room that will eventually become a bathroom, and a nook that will be a kitchenette. All the wiring in the house is surface mounted EMT conduit & metal boxes (long and goofy story about why this is so and not romex in the walls)

In the bathroom, is there that much of a safety advantage to running PVC conduit? Or is EMT and metal boxes okay? Of course all outlets/switches/boxes are to be grounded. My worry is the steamy shower air settling and condensing to drops on the parts inside the boxes.

Also, after some research, I have interpreted that:

In a single bathroom, outlets/lights/and fan may be on the same breaker and it must be GFCI protected.
In kitchens, the convenience receptacles must be on their own 20A GFCI-protected breaker with 20A outlets, separate from lighting. (not including fridge/oven etc which must be separate)
In kitchens the lighting circuit does not have to be GFCI or CAFI protected.

So (assuming I'm correct in my research above) my plan is:

One CAFI/GFCI 20A circuit to the bathroom with two 20A outlets, a vent fan, and a surface-mount LED light fixture.
One CAFI/GFCI 20A curcuit to the kitchen convenience outlets, in EMT conduit with 20A outlets in metal boxes
One CAFI 15A circuit to the kitchen light fixture (same fixture as bathroom). I know CAFI isn't necessary (right?) but I assume it can't hurt to have the extra safety margin.
One CAFI/GFCI circuit to power the fridge.


texts:
I have an existing cooktop with a 50 amp breaker and #6 wire
Replacing cooktop with a new induction top that requires a 40 amp circuit
Is it ok to leave the 50 amp breaker box or should I swap with 40 amp breaker?
Thank you


texts: How can I safely install a frameless melamine wall cabinet that has a thin pressboard backing, and no hanging rail?

texts:
This frame-less wall cabinet is melamine with a thin press-board backing, and it has no hanging rail. The press-board backing is set back from the rear of the cabinet about 5/8". The cabinet seems pretty heavy for it's size.
It was a shop project about 20 years ago and just takes up workbench or countertop space; not sure why anyone got an "A" on it without a way to mount it! I'm sure that if I just screw through the press-board to mount it, it will simply break and tear through the press-board, even if I fill the space behind the press-board.
It will be a stand alone, with no cabinet or wall next to it, so I can't screw through the sides.
I'm thinking that if I glue and screw a filler behind the press-board, it might hold, but it still won't be attached to the cabinet except for the thin backboard, and I just don't want to have to worry about it once it's hung and filled with misc. hardware.
Any great ideas would be welcome!


texts: Router bit depth keeps decreasing/slipping down, where is the problem?

texts:
I inherited a black and decker plunge router from my grandfather. From when I first tried it the bit has always slowly receded back decreasing the amount the bit protrudes from the router base. This has happened when using it freehand and in a upside down table configuration. The bit collet itself is gripping well enough onto the bit, the bit itself is not slipping down into the collet. No matter how tightly I tighten the height lock mechanism this always happens. I have even removed the plastic cam toggle handle as I read somewhere so I can tighten the lock nut itself even tighter with a spanner, this also does nothing.

The lock mechanism works with a bolt which basically seems to press against the rails/poles of the router to stop it from moving up or down. I loosened and flipped the entire base around so that the bolt would be pressing on "virgin" surface, because where the locking bolt repeatedly pressed on the original rail/pole it started to scratch a path into the surface. Doing this also did nothing. The depth decrease/slip issue only seems to happen once I begin routing. I've wondered if removing the springs could be a makeshift fix?

I have no idea what could be the problem. Is the locking mechanism bolt too smooth from being slightly filed smooth over the years? I can't do anything with the router because the bit height always decreases making it almost impossible and aggravating to do anything. Thanks!


texts: How to repair corner joints in window drywall returns

texts:
I am doing some minor drywall repairs throughout my home and am uncertain how to properly finish the inside corners of the drywall returns. After 45 years in quake country, these joints are cracked in every window. In the attached image, I have scraped away loose joint compound to reveal the corner bead. To prevent re-cracking for as long as possible, would it be best to tape this joint, caulk it, or simply recoat with mud and pray?
Thanks for your time!


texts: Recommendation for power cord replacement plugs

texts:
Can anyone recommend a good quality brand of replacement plugs for power cords?

I've used them for...

power tools
equipment (120 and 240)
extension cords (up to 50 amp)
etc.

...and the ones they sell at local stores are just cheap!

Not inexpensive, cheap! :-)

I've had issues with everything from the housings breaking and screws stripping or loosening to problems with the strain relief.

So any recommendations would be appreciated

Thanks


texts: Best option for DIY water heater platform

texts:
16 year old gas water heater started leaking, so time to replace!  The old water heater was on a 3-legged stand, and the stand is permanently embedded in to a concrete blob on top of the concrete garage floor.   My quick fix, wife needs hot water now, was to cut down the stand and build a 2x6/plywood stand on top of the old legs.   Since wood is susceptible to water and fire, I thought this would be a temporary solution.

Is my plywood base actually okay, or should I consider replacing it immediately?
What are some options for improving the situation?   My only thought is to jack-hammer the old cement blob, and create a new square cement blob since garage floor is not perfectly level
How important is it that the water heater be perfectly level?


texts: What are the best option to Rekey My New House?

texts: I'm closing on my first house on Tuesday and I'm interested in seeing if rekeying my locks is worth the effort. I think my options are: new locks, rekey it myself, and get a locksmith to rekey it. Any recommendations or am I missing anything?


texts: Can you tell me where the some of the plumbing runs would be going to?

texts:
just moved into my first new house in 17 years! My old house was a new build and very simple. This new to me house is about the same and had quite alot of basement work done at some point. That's where things start to confuse me. As you can see in the pics below, I have a plumbing quandry.

So here's what I know. The large shutoff in the middle of these runs appears to be the main shutoff. There is no longer a shutoff right out of the concrete and you can see where they removed it.

The bottom run is a 1/2 inch pipe and supplies the spigots BEFORE the softener. The softner then comes into play. The confusing thing is that there's a T there which would seem to be sending un-treated water SOMEWHERE, but I don't know how to tell where!

enter preformatted text here


texts: What would cause a water pressure drop after tripping a breaker?

texts:
I recently plugged my laptop into a cheap powerbar, which caused said-powerbar to short. This tripped the "sockets" circuit on the breaker, which, upon resetting, caused power to begin flowing to stuff again (Namely the hot water heater).

Only problem is, now I have low pressure for both hot and cold water. A tap was running when the short happened, and the pressure immediately dropped out. I live in a ~15 year-old forth-storie flat in the UK, with a basic indirect plumbing system and separate condensing wall hung system boiler.

Any idea what might be causing this, and what I need to reset (Bonus marks for "How")?

Update: After a day and a half, the pump or whatever came back to life and there's now water pressure. Leaving question open in case anyone has an idea about what was causing the problem, and any way of possibly fixing it.


texts: Correct orientation for t-shaped shelf bracket to minimize stress on anchor bolts

texts:
I have a t-shaped shelf bracket that looks like this:

      | <- screw hole here
      |  <shelf>
      |-----------
<wall>|
      |
      |
      | <- screw hole here

This is a custom made bracket so there are no instructions. The wall side of the brackets can be oriented so there is 2" going up above the shelf and 4" down or the opposite where there's 4" above the shelf and 2" below.

What is the best orientation to minimize stress on the bolts?


texts: Replacing particle board subfloor with plywood

texts:
I am hoping someone will be able to give me advice on how to proceed with my project. I am installing vinyl flooring and noticed the particle subfloor was rotten in a spot. I decided that I wanted to remove it and replace it with plywood. When ripping it up it looks like it was screwed and glued onto risers (planks of wood - not sure what they're called).

Is it best for me to take these risers up and just place 3/4" plywood on top of the existing plywood? I assume I would have to glue as well right? Or should I get 1/4" plywood and lay that on top of the risers?

Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated as I clearly have no idea what I am doing. Here is a picture of what it looks like:

Wider view of what's being replaced (don't mind the mess :))

Thanks in advance!

Dan


texts:
I have a stand-up shower with two knobs (one for hot, one for cold).  The shower drips non-stop, what is amazing to me is that the shower drips even when you are using it to take a shower!

This is an image of similar set-up of how the shower appears, what actions could I take to prevent it from constantly dripping from the shower head?

EDIT
Let me add that the shower drips from the "head" not coming from the knobs.  The shower head seems to have a very slow/steady trickle coming from one of the "holes" that is just enough to pool on the outer lip of the head and drip down constantly.


texts: Why would you hook up the heat output of a wood stove to the cold air return on an electric forced-air furnace?

texts:
I am installing a new wood add-on stove in the basement and want to hook it in to my forced air furnace duct work to help move the air in the house. I have heard it can be done, but I am confused as to how or where to hook up the hot air pipe. Some say to hook it into the cold air return, but what about CO2 build up? Others say you can hook in to the output side and run it through the furnace, but I was told that could ruin the forced air furnace, and that I would have to put dampers in to by-pass the electric furnace altogether.

So I am confused. Can some one help?


texts: I am planning the remodel of a master bathroom that currently has a bathtub and separate but small shower stall.  I plan to enlarge the shower and do away with the bathtub altogether, leaving me with an extra set of 1/2" supply lines.  Should I just cap the extra set of lines, or would merging the two sets of 1/2" lines into a length of 3/4" or 1" pipe provide any advantage in terms of increased water flow/pressure to the new shower?  Assuming that the inputs on most shower valves are 1/2", I would probably have to use a reducer to mate the relatively short length of larger supply line back up with the valve.


texts: I am installing a Hive Active thermostat.  My previous thermostat was battery operated and did not use a C wire.  However, I found a 5th, blue wire, behind the thermostat so I used that as the C wire and connected it to the new thermostat and to the c terminal on the furnace(there is also another wire in the c terminal already, not positive what for).  When testing voltage all wires are at 27 volts testing at the furnace.  I also tested at the thermostat and all are at 27 except for the Rh-C which is not getting power.  This needs 24 volts for the thermostat to power on...what am I missing?  Thanks


texts: Adding a second motion sensor to an existing motion sensor light

texts:
I have installed a HeathZenith # 5412 motion sensor light. I have added a second motion sensor to that light around the corner of the building to pick up motion from that direction the second detector is a Defiant #Cd-5716.

I simply conected the white to white, black to black and red to red. I am still experiementong with the various controls to get them to work properly, but I waNt to be sure I connected correctly.

The lights have power as when they come on they flash (like a strobe), but the little red indicator light on the main light is not blinking (the one on the secondary sensor does blink).


texts: Does a larger solar water heater equate to better water pressure?

texts:
Please excuse my ignorance - we want to buy a typical slanted rooftop solar water heater for our home. We thought 200L would be an acceptable capacity, but the vendor we visited today said that we should have 300L or more. When I explained that we had calculated our hot water needs and 200L was more than sufficient, he countered that having a larger capacity tank would mean better water pressure at the shower head.

Now I'm no physicist, but I was under the impression that flow rate for these tanks depended on two things: vertical distance from the outlet (letting gravity speed the rate) and pipe diameter. Is there a significant difference in flow rate simply due to tank size?


texts: How do I prepare wooden kitchen units for painting with eggshell?

texts:
We have some old IKEA kitchen units that we want to paint in eggshell.

I wanted advice on the best preparation for the doors.

My only experience with painting wood has been re-glossing doors etc. and I haven't used eggshell paint before.


texts: Concrete Block Raised Pond - Will it be strong enough?

texts:
I've had a builder build me a small concrete block raised bed (internal dimensions 3m x .8m x .5m) with a soil base. It's not reinforced but built out of cemented standard engineering  concrete block and rendered on 2 faces.
I've had the genius idea (;)) of making it a small water feature with pump and little water feature. I'll obviously use liner.
edit - the side wall water depth will be only 35cm
My DIY brain says that the walls will easily hold the water as it's only 50cm high but now I'm doubting my fag packet logic - before filling it.
Obvious question coming - are the concrete walls going to be strong enough? If not, can I reinforce them retrospectively? Any other sage advice would be much appreciated.


texts: Does it matter on which phase the solar panel inverter is connected?

texts:
We have a three phase power supply (3x25A) at our home in The Netherlands (230V). All three phases are used for an induction cooker, and in parallel, two phases (let's call them 1 and 2) each power about half of the household.

We recently had solar panels installed (about 2.5kWp), and the inverter is tied to the third phase (i.e., not 1 or 2, so it is only directly connected to the induction range). Is this the right way to do it? On the one hand, it seems inefficient to draw most power from phase 1 and 2, and supply power to phase 3. On the other hand, the electrical noise from the inverter is all dumped into phase 3 so perhaps it actually isolates the electrical noise from the rest of the household.

Is there a 'right' way to choose which phase the solar panels are connected to? Or does this squarely fall in the it really doesn't matter category?


texts: What causes circuit breaker finders to not work properly?

texts:
Sperry circuit breaker finder, aprox 15 years old, It did work OK a few years ago.
I plug in the transmitter and the LED lights up. Then I go to the breaker panel and find a weak signal put can't narrow it down to one breaker. I find that where I get the signal is not even close to the proper CB. I suspect that maybe other electronics (cordless phones, computer, etc) that are on in the house are interfering w/the circuit breaker finder's electronics.


texts: When half laping two 6x6s, what is the optimal length and ratio?

texts:
Joining two 10 ft 6x6s of dry pressure treated with half lap joint (not tapered) and 3/8" lag bolts with washers (not machine bolts).
For strength, what is the optimal length of half lap and what is the optimal ratio of thicknesses?
Would it be different for 4x4s?


texts: How to repair this plastered wall with brickwork in bad condition?

texts:
I discovered a very wobbly patch of wall about a metre square below a window. The plaster had clearly come away from the brick, so I chipped it off with a view to re-plastering it. Towards the top of the wall there was about a 1cm gap behind the old bonding. The bottom part is in reasonable condition. The real issue is that the top layer of bricks are all completely loose and in places had rotten timber in their place.

To the right of the image you can see more gaps and expanding foam where there should be brick. The story there is that about 10-12 years ago a doorway was added. Instead of finishing off the end of the wall with new brickwork they seem to have stuffed it with foam and piled some thick plaster onto the side. Actually that thick plaster is pretty solid and the finish on the side is good, but that doesn't help the fact there's nothing to bond plaster to from the front.

So going back to my original plan of plastering the wall. How should I handle the fact there's no brick to bond to? Would you recommend plasterboard instead? Or should I repair the brick somehow and plaster as planned?

The surface of the finished wall is exactly one inch from the brick.

I should add that I am a novice plasterer to say the least!


texts: How should I run electrical wire perpendicular to exposed joists in my basement?

texts: I have some questions in regards to running electrical in an exposed, unfinished basement environment. I understand that wire running parallel to floor joists should be at least 1.25" above the bottom of the joist and fastened at regular intervals (4.5 ft?). My question: when it is required that the wire jog 90 degrees (perpendicular to the joists) and pass through drilled holes, does this wire have to be in conduit? To avoid the conception that someone could "hang" something on this wire. Also, do the holes where the wire passes through have to filled with a fire retardant?


texts: Mixing slate stacked stone panel ledger and porcelain tile on shower wall - selecting thinset, grout and sealer?

texts:
I'm redoing my shower from scratch and fell in love with the combination of this Slate Multicolor Porcelain Tile and Splitface Slate Panel Ledger:

I have limited experience with tiling and have several concerns with this combination, for which hopefully someone could steer me in the right direction.

Is this even a good idea? Is this normal practice? Are there any potential issues (not mentioned below) I could face in the future?

Finishing: With the split face panel ledger being natural stone, the thickness varies from piece to piece from 1/4" to almost 3/4". In some places it will be flush with the porcelain and in some it will stick out. I'm not so concerned about this transition in particular, however is there any way to ensure a clean looking finished edge on an outside corner / drywall transition?

Thinset: Should I use 2 different types of thinset for each type of tile? Mapei, Custom Building Products and Versabond make thinset for all different types of applications: porcelain, large format, natural stone, different colors, etc. I'm lost in terms of which brand(s) and which specific product(s) to go with. Any direction here would be highly appreciated.

Grout & Sealing: The individual stones in the splitface panel ledger are either flush with each other or have tiny gaps between them - will it be possible and/or necessary to grout between them? On the backside there is some sort of glue between the individual stones, though I am not sure how waterproof that is.

Grout & Sealing: From my research it seems that the consensus is that it's a good idea to seal slate before grouting so as not to stain the surface with the grout. However, porcelain can be sealed after grouting (I plan to use GlazeGuard porcelain specific sealer to give it that "wet" look). What would be the best approach here? Pre-seal slate, grout and then seal porcelain & grout?

Thank you in advance for any guidance!


texts: I recently got a new central a/c system with ducts included.  PROBLEM: The ducts had interior insulation that gave off maple syrup odor. The contractor replaced the ducts with more interior insulation, unfortunately I get the maple odor at times and other odors. Why does anyone ever use interior insulation in A/C ducts??  Insulation is poisonous, carcinogenic?  Isn't EXTERIOR insulation the only way to go?


texts: Do I need to use dielectric grease or another type of water proofing in c9 christmas sockets?

texts:
I went ahead and took the plunge and ordered the supplies to build my own christmas light strand this year using this guide. I built a test strip, and I'm realizing that water intrusion into the c9 socket looks super duper easy.
Is it standard practice to use dielectric grease or something similar? I imagine dielectric would be an awful mess, but don't exactly want to wrap every single christmas light in electrical tape either.


texts: Will my plan work to temporarily power an irrigation pump?

texts:
Parents are rebuilding a house and we need to keep running the irrigation pump to keep the 2 acres of St. Augustine grass alive.
The pump is 5HP single phase Starite DSeries DMG) and the manual says it pulls about 28 amps full load.
Originally the line was 2 gauge aluminum running from the panel inside the house down the 200 ft to the pump.  We now need another 160 ft to reach the construction temporary panel setup.
We have 200 ft of an 8 gauge 3 conductor wire that was used to power an RV with 50 amp service,
Question is, I'm wondering if its safe enough "for now" to use that 8 gauge copper 3 conductor to reach the 2 gauge aluminum cut off point.
So basically I hook up the 8 gauge copper, running 160 ft, to the 2 gauge aluminum (using appropriate AlCu connectors)
Connection would be:

Construction service panel
35 Amp double pole breaker
#8 Cu 2 conductor+G [160ft]
#2 Al 2 conductor+G [200ft]
5hp 220V irrigation pump using 28 amps

This is only temporary, and will get a proper code compliant solution put in once final inspection is due.


texts: What is the best way to incrementally finish an unfinished basement?

texts:
my wife and I are in the process of buying our first house. The house has a 750 square foot unfinished basement (cinderblock walls and concrete floor), and is brand new (rather, it will be brand new when it is finished in a week or two). We don't have the option of having the contractors finish the basement for us because we are using a program for first time home buyers, but we would like to finish the basement within the first two years that we live there. Unfortunately, we have received a quote of $30,000 - $45,000 to finish the basement. What we would like to do instead of tackling the whole project at once is to tackle the project in smaller, more affordable pieces. Here is what we would like to see accomplished:

We would like to convert the basement into 4 smaller spaces (with walls)
We would like to run electrical outlets every several feet throughout the outer walls (I am a bit of an electronics nut)
We would like to insulate the outer walls and hang drywall
We would like to install some kind of flooring (I am hoping for hardwood as adding hardwood to the whole house is my next major project for the house)
I suppose we need to add some sort of drop ceiling, but I am not sure.

My question is compound. First of all, is there any major pitfall to doing this project incrementally that I may not have thought of? The second part is which order would be best for tackling these projects. Lastly, Which parts of this project should I (as a not terribly handy person) attempt to take on by myself in order to maximize my savings while taking on the least risk of screwing the job up? Thanks for the help!


texts: Connect small diameter poly tubing to 4" PVC drain pipe

texts:
I have a wastewater output from an RO system that I need to drain. The RO system is located in the basement, so the only drain pipe available is the 4" main drain for the house which is PVC.
The outlet water tubing supplied by the RO system vendor is 3/8" polypropylene tubing. How can I connect this to the 4" sewer drain pipe? I presumably want some kind of trap setup to prevent septic gases from getting into the RO system.
Note that the RO system is pressurized, at least on the input side of the membrane.


texts: What could cause my washing machine to stop before the rinse cycle, it drains fine?

texts: This is the 2nd washing machine that has this problem.  I have seen all the previous answers and non of them correct me problem.  The water drains out fine, it just will not spin, I have to manually turn the dial to  it works.


texts: Can a GFCI outlet be bad? If so, will it take everything on the circuit?

texts: Can a GFCI outlet go bad, causing the entire electrical line to open?


texts: How do I find a fire-rated door that won't dent easily?

texts:
I recently bought a metal fire-rated door at Lowe's for the doorway from my house to my garage.  In putting it into my van, it bumped into a dolly cart.  I was surprised to see that it was dented from the bump.  If it is dented so easily in transport, it surely will be dented in ordinary use.  I returned the door.
So how do I find an inexpensive fire-rated door that is more durable, perhaps dent-resistant?  The salespeople seem to think that all metal doors could dent and that all fire doors they might sell are just about the same.


texts: Can 2300 watt washing machine burn out wiring in my house?

texts: My standard voltage is 230 V and the socket is 16 A. I am asking the question because I had a 1500 watt water heating rod connected with another 15A socket which did burn out my home wires after a week of use.


texts: Electric panel distance from windows and/or gas service entry

texts:
I can't find anything specific anywhere else, but what is the minimum distance a main electrical panel can be from a window when the panel is mounted on the outside of the house?

Additionally, is there any reg concerning the panel's horizontal distance from a gas meter on the same exterior wall?

I understand there are regs on "working space", but if these things (main panel, gas, A/C condenser, etc) exist on the same contiguous wall... are there any CODE restrictions on distance from EACH OTHER.  Can the working space more-or-less overlap?

If so, what are the relevant sources/code references?


texts: Why is my motion activated light switch in my pantry also controlling my bathroom light?

texts: I installed this motion activated light switch, and felt so smart doing so and getting it to work.  Now I've realized that the motion activator is also controlling the adjacent bathroom light.  Can you point me in the right direction to troubleshoot?  This switch does have a white/neutral wire which I connected.


texts: Should I insulate above a suspended ceiling or in the attic?

texts: In our old house the drywall on the kitchen ceiling has to be replaced due to water damage. Original walls are 10' tall. Previous owners dropped the ceiling two feet to hide wires, plumbing, etc. At this time there is no insulation in the attic. Plans are to have some blown in soon. My question is should I insulate between the ceiling joists which is 2 feet below the attic floor or will the insulation blown into the attic suffice ?


texts:
I need to clean my kitchen's oven really well. It is electric, has a "grill" element on top, and a fan behind a grating which, apparently, cannot be removed. I tried with the spray products for ovens but I cannot reach every part of it, and I always have the sensation that I'm not cleaning, I'm just detaching oil but even after removing it with paper and cleaning more with alcohol, the oven stays oily anyway.

Do you have any hint on how to clean it as close as brand new, and what are the precautions to keep (if any) in order not to ruin the grill element ?


texts: My stairs are flush with the drywall right now. Will this cause me issues down the road?


texts: How do I dismantle a faucet assembly to replace a leaky valve?

texts:
A bit embarrassed asking this, but...
I'm trying to replace a leaking valve off my faucet assembly, but am unable to unscrew the faucet cap. Here is the faucet assembly -
Taboret® widespread lavatory faucet - K-8211-4


texts: How to fix scuffs and scratches on wood door?

texts:
When passing a sofa through door I saw a few scratches after and even some irregularities.

I know there are some pastes I can use to fix the irregularities and on the past I used some kind of varnish with color on the door.

Is it the best alternative?


texts: Replumb sillcocks to increase outdoor pressure?

texts:
I'm trying to increase pressure to my outside hoses for lawn watering and noticed that the sillcocks are all after my whole house water filter and they are all 1/2". Because of this, when I run the sprinklers, the whole house filter gets dirty and clogged very quickly. The plumbing from my well pressure tank is 3/4" and the pressure switch is set to 40/60.
Would I see a worthwhile pressure and flow increase to my outside impact sprinklers if I:

Plumb in a 3/4" tee before the whole house filter and run 1" PEX lines to sillcock valves
Replace existing 1/2" sillcocks with 3/4" sillcocks
Run 3/4" hose from sillcock to impact sprinklers

Thanks in advance!


texts: Adding Recessed Lighting and Switches to Pull Chain Fan

texts: I currently have a ceiling fan with light in my living room.  It has no switch, and is controlled solely by pull chains.  I would like to add recessed lighting to the room, and I would like to add two switches: one for the fan, and a dimmer for the recessed lighting.  What is the simplest way of adding these two switches? A 3 wire switch loop? If so what is the proper wiring configuration.


texts:
I have this shower head that I am trying to find another one of and I can't seem to find this exact type anywhere. Most of them have a flat front with little plastic orifices that let the water out, but those always clog up. This head has been serving reliably for over 20 years, so I need to know what type this is, and where I might find a suitable replacement.

Thanks!


texts: How to remove old light switches, leave circuit always on?

texts:
I have purchased Hue lights and switches and want to remove my old wired switches, leaving the circuits always connected.  (Thereby using the Hue software switches to control the lights.)

I suppose I need to remove the old switches and connect their wires together.  Some of the old switches are simple one switch per light, others are two switches for a light.  Are there any tricks to this, or do I just turn off the circuit breaker, remove the switch, connect all the wires together (except the ground obviously), then cross my fingers and turn on the circuit breaker?

Thanks much for any advice!


texts: Is subfloor / underlayment for tile different for a small area

texts: Normally for plank subfloor one is supposed to add 1/2 inch of plywood plus cement backer board for underlayment.  For a small area say 4 feet by four feet is all of this necessary?


texts:
8 to 10 very loud bangs over 2 hours with a short (5 to 10 second) loss of power. The bangs were very loud.
The bangs were from inside the house.


texts:
I recently rewired two thermostats into one Honeywell RTH9580WF1005 Wifi Thermostat. I ran a new wire and hooked up R and W to the oil boiler and Rc, C, G, and Y to the Goodman air handler. The Y is wired directly to the condenser as the control board does not have a Y in the harness. The other wire from the condenser goes to C on the control board.

When I turn on the thermostat circuit breaker, the condenser/compressor immediately starts up. I checked the contact outside and it appears to be working smoothly. With the power on, the contact is depressed. When the power is off, the contact is open and I can press it easily to start it. It seems to me that the Y wire is always energized and thus the condenser won't turn off.

I just replaced the control board thinking that there was a short in the controllers. However, the issue still remains so the board is not at fault.

How should Y be wired when there is no place for it on the control board? How should the thermostat be wired to control two separate systems? Should R and Rc be jumped or not? How can I test the voltage of the wires to verify it was done correctly?


texts: Is there any way to heat up a space noise free?

texts:
I hate my gas furnace so much, because the central heating system is so noisy. So, I bought a portable oil radiator heater, which is a temporary solution for me. It is truly noise free though.

But it is good only for small spaces. I would probably need to buy 10 of those small portable heaters to heat up the whole house. The electricity bill would skyrocket though.

Is there any other noise free option to heat up a space (I don't care about cooling, I'm only concerned about heating)?


texts: How can I calculate if switching power strip on and off is safe

texts:
I am a total noob when it comes to electricity and find this questions hard to search answers for on the internet. I have the below setup:

Dell screen 1.5a * 230v = 345w
Dell screen 1.5a * 230v = 345w
Samsung screen 1a * 230v = 230w
Samsung screen 1a * 230v = 230w
BASF stereo amp 200w (8-16 ohm, does this matter ?)
WD Elements 0.6a * 230v = 138w
YANEC laptop charger output 90w, input unspecified (il assume input of 50w)

sum all = 1578w

all connected to Konig power strip with max 3680W max 13500a surge protection
(it has this small extra button which is the surge protection)

I am in Belgium hence the 230v.

I used to have a similar setup with another screen and my desktop pc also connected to the power strip. One day the power strip made a poof sound when I switched it on and stopped working for a while, all appliances where fine except for the computers PSU which was fried.

My little knowledge of electricity tells me that I just have to compare the wattage. So in this case 1578w < 3680w so I should be safe. But someone told me that the appliances will draw more at the moment my power strip is turned on. This would explain also how I fried my PSU.

So my question to you guys: can I safely switch my power strip on and off too effectively use it as an on/off switch for all appliances at the same time? Or will I fry one of them at some point?

Also, yes, I am aware that I could have avoided destroying my PSU if I had done this research earlier.


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I'm planning to upgrade my electrical service and am interested in getting a 225 amp main load center. I can only find 200 amp meter sockets, though. The next highest ampacity meter socket I can find is 320 A and it's significantly more expensive than most of the 200 A sockets.
Are there any 225 A meter sockets? If not, what are you supposed to do to meter power going into a 225 A main breaker box?


texts: Can I install A/C in a home built in 1924 which has round heat ducts in the ceiling? I am looking at homes to purchase in Milwaukee, WI. The home seems to have all it's ductwork above the ceiling, as the round registers are in the ceiling of each room. Most homes in this climate have basements where the ductwork and pipes are, because of the cold, but this home does not.


texts:
Wonder if anyone can help?

I have just replaced an old timed electic fan with a new humidity / timed sensor fan.

The fan location has a  1x Perminant Live,  1x swiched Live (bathroom Light) and 1x Netraul.

Which is fine, however I dont want to use the switched live as I dont need the fan running when the light is turned on.

So my simple mind was thinking if I just exlude the switched live, the fan will not come on when the light is turned on.

However with the perminant live thats supplied via an isolation switch connected to the perminant feed on the fan the fan just contiuously runs (been on about 45 minutes since install and still running)

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance


texts:
I'm trying to replace my master closet light switch with a single pole dimmer switch but the wiring doesn't seem to correspond. The old switch has 2 black wires back stabbed, 1 black wire that's tapped on the bottom screw (looks like 2 black wires coming off the switch), and the ground screwed on the top. Im replacing it with the Lutron Maestro which has 2 black wires, 1 green+1ground.

Any suggestions?


texts:
I am currently in the process of having my gas service upgraded to a 2psi system. My plumber is about to rough in and install all the piping, along with a maxitrol pressure regulator. This will be done a week prior to the utility company installing the new meter and upping the pressure to 2 psi.
Will there be any harm in using my gas appliances on the current 1/4 lb system with the regulator installed?


texts: Bonding gas piping, flexible CSST in conjuction with Iron pipe

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I recently became aware of the need to bond a gas distribution containing yellow CSST flexible pipe. (TracPipe FGP SS4 750 5 PSI FUEL It has a yellow jacket)
When our propane system was converted to natural gas the contractor used a combination of existing iron pipe and yellow CSST pipe.  The current system starts with 50 feet of CSST pipe at the meter connected to a short iron pipe manifold near the furnace.  A second separate 20 foot section of CSST pipe runs from the manifold to a section of iron pipe serving the water heater.  The manifold also feeds the furnace with iron pipe and the fire place with another section of CSST pipe.
The meter is on the opposite side of house from the  electrical entrance and the electrical panel.
I see no attempt to bond/ground the gas piping.
It looks like there may be a dielectric union on the house side of the gas meter but I have not verified that the house is isolated electrically from the meter.
My questions are:

What is the proper way to bond such a mixture of CSST and iron pipe?

Does anything need to be done to insure that the three runs of CSST meeting at the iron manifold are electrically connected?

Can the system be bonded at the meter to a ground rod?
Can the system be bonded to the electrical panel from the iron pipe serving the water heater?

I hope to find a knowledgeable contractor to do this work but I want to understand what needs to be done.


texts: I am needing to run 2 underground 12/2 UB (gray wire) cables for a 20 amp pool pump and a 20 amp gfci socket. Can I run both cables through a single, buried 3/4” schedule 40 conduit?


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The property that I bought recently had two sheds. The older one was closer the to the fence and it is already demolished and the other one which is currently blocking our view and it is too big for our needs. The plan is to cut it in half and try to relocate one of the halves on the blue area marked on the picture

The resulting structure will look like this:

Here are my questions:

Is the above a good idea ?  What difficulties can I expect?
2 The house has no slope build around the walls to lead the water away of the walls. That is something that I want to improve in the near future. Do I need to build a slope under the off the wall shelf ?
Considering that I will have to move a prebuilt structure what is the best type of base that I should build for my new shed (the blue square)? I am thinking about a skid base.
  The current shed has its own base frame and it lies on top of solid concrete blocks. Considering that the half of the shed that I am moving has to slide into that space I don't  think that another type of base is a good idea
Do I need to lie gravel under the shed? The area was previously used as a storage area, gravel was stored there before the first shed was build. I already cleaned the place and collected all the gravel in two garage bins.
The old shed base is still in place, it has a gravel bed on top of which concrete pavers were added. They are not level anymore. I could probably use them to build a base fore the new shed (in the blue area) or try to drive the water away from the house in the greyed area under our windows.
The question is, if the old shed does not need a base (either gravel or concrete slabs) which of the two is the best to cover the grey filled area in the first picture: concrete slabs or gravel? (I guess they will both need a sloped bed before anything

Update (2017): I ended up cutting the shed in half and reinforcing the structure so it  could stand by itself (worked well)
After that I used conduit pipes to move it in place. A friend of mine got some leftovers from work and they where just good to roll the whole thing on them
I ended up moving the structure twice since when I first moved it in place it was late in the season and I had to wait till next year when I built a base by the book (sand, gravel, slabs)
It stands strong no issues to far.


texts: Connecting GFCI switch with digital timer switch

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I moved my old bathroom exhaust fan to shower area, I need to install GFCI switch as per code.
I also want to replace old toggle switch with digital countdown timer switch.
Can I have blank face GFCI receptacle between my digital timer switch and my bathroom fan? Power will first come to my timer switch.
Timer | GFCI


texts: What would my bedroom wall switch control if not the ceiling fan or outlets?

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In my second floor master bedroom there is a light switch right when you enter the room.  It does not appear to control anything.  I have separately checked every wall outlet and they all work with the switch off.  There is a ceiling fan with no light that works with the pull chain when the switch is off.  There is not other overhead lighting
If I add a light kit to the fan, or install a new fan with a light, is there a chance that the wall switch could control the fan light?  Maybe there used to be a fan with light that was replaced to only be a fan - could you wire a switched fan to work without the switch?
Behind the switch:  a look into the box shows that the switch is connected with red/black wires both tested and live.  These red/black wires go up.  There are two other points wired with black and white using the same box.  One set also going up and one set going to the right.  It also appears that the power source comes into this box.  From the top of the box, left to right...red/black to switch, black/white/yellow, black/white.  Out the right side...black/white.

hard to see but this is the inside of the outlet that contains the red wire.  This outlet is furthest from the switch in the opposite corner of the room.  Red wire comes into the box, gets capped with another red wire and then exits.

All outlets in the room are checked and only one contains the red wire.  It does not connect to the outlet though.  It goes into the box, gets capped and then exits.  I have not taken the fan down yet but that might be my next step.  Thanks for the input so far.

This is inside the fan cap where a light kit can be installed.  Does this red wire coming through mean I found what has come from the switch or do I still need to get the fan off from the ceiling?
Here is the fan connection to the ceiling...

***Both red and black wires coming from the ceiling are testing hot/live when the switch is in the on and off positions


texts: Clothesline sagging even though it was properly tightened

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I'm new to this forum. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to be asking questions about clothesline here, but I didn't find any forum in StackExchange that was something like 'DIY'. So, I suppose it's okay.
I've recently built my own clothesline using rope and a tightener. It worked pretty well for some weeks but I now see that it is sagging.
This is how it looked when I built it for the first time:

And this is how it looks now:

When I built it, I tightened it as much as I could, but still, it ended up deformed this way.
Do you know what I can do? Should I change the rope maybe? Is it the tightener that I used?


texts: Ceramic disk faucet valve is stiff/sticky

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I've pulled the faucet apart and in the valve housing, there are two ceramic disks that rotate to mix the hot and cold water. I thought the piece was a single piece until I realized it budged a bit. I was able to slide the two apart in a shearing motion (rather than pulling them directly apart).

I couldn't understand how they were so stuck. I put the pieces together and pulled them directly apart and they were fine. Then I put them together and rotated them (as they would do in the housing) and that's when I could feel them glue themselves together. It dawned on me that the ultra-smooth surfaces were forming a vacuum between them as I rotated them. To the point where i could no longer rotate them at all, and had to forcefully shear them apart again.

This only began happening in the past week. Prior to that, the faucet worked as it always had.

Anyone know anything about what I'm referring to and whether there's any remedy?


texts: Reducing humidity with a fan: top or bottom?

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In the basement of my apartment block we have several little storage rooms (~65 sq ft), one for each tenant. Inside of mine the humidity gets a little high to my liking because although it has 2 holes in the wall with gratings that communicate with the rest of the basement, the air doesn't really move and becomes stagnant, which I think makes the humidity rise. The humidity outside that room in the same basement is OK, since it has good ventilation.

The 2 gratings are in the same wall, one at the floor level and the other at ceiling level. So I thought that in order to circulate some air and potentially reduce the humidity, I should install a fan in (at least) one of the two grates.

My question is: what grate would be the best choice for this purpose? The top or the bottom? And what direction should the air flow? Would I benefit from putting two fans, one in each grate?

My understanding using (possibly flawed) logic would be to use the top one and blow the air to the outside of the room, because the humid air would accumulate near the ceiling and this way it would be ejected out.


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My sump pump is loud.  It is right below my bedroom and when it rains at night, it's hard to relax to the sound of the rain when all I hear is the loud grumble of the pump.  To make matters worse, I don't have a basement so the pump is only a few feet below my bedroom floor (in the crawl space obviously).

A thought occurred to me but I wanted to get other people's opinions on it.  I thought about building a dome out of sound-dampening material that I could place over my sump pump.  It would be a rigged solution but I think it might just help.  My basic thought is curve sound dampening material into a dome shape, large enough to cover the general area of the pump.  Then, mount the dome onto some metal legs that I can then stick into the ground around the pumps location.

Can anybody foresee any caveats to this?  Or perhaps suggest a better method or design?


texts: Should cement board be glued and screwed to the studs?

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I've seen some people recommend that cement board be glued and screwed to the stud framing for wall and ceiling application.

I haven't seen this recommendation on any of the manufacturers install specs, but it seems to come up often enough in DIY and other web communities as a way to keep the board fixed and rigid with the framing.


texts:
I wanted to replace our under cabinet Halogen bulbs with LED. So I got the LED lights from Home Depot and when testing them from an electrical outlet, I accidentally had the two wires coming together and there was a spark.

The circuit breaker did not trip but none of the outlets are working. Here is the picture

That was the wire that I connected to the electrical outlet and the two wires got connected accidentally and got short-circuited.

As a result, the outlet is not working - there is no power coming through the outlet and the other outlets in that circuit are not working as well

Do you think I should replace the outlet?


texts: Would the removal of the most upstream receptacle cause two separate GCFI outlets to go dead?

texts: The two GCFIs are in each bathroom of the apartment. One of them is downstream from the outlet I disconnected and its on the same circuit. But, the other GCFI is in adjacent bathroom which is on a separate circuit. Oddly, the light switch in BR#2 still works fine. BR#1 power is completely gone. Which I expected,since it’s on the same circuit as the outlet I removed. Why would the other GCFI die? Is related or a coincidence?


texts: How long does it take to make money back on a new air conditioner?

texts:
I have a townhouse built in 1975 with an air conditioner on the roof. I have no idea how old it is but I can imagine it is on it's last legs. What's more, this last month's energy bill was one of our highest so I'm looking to see how much I'd save a month if it were replaced? I know ACs can be expensive but they have improved so much in their efficiency I figure at some point it'll be worth replacing the old one.

How long would I have to own the townhouse before I start to make money on a new AC?

Are there any other tips/tricks to maximize efficient usage of the old one in the meantime?


texts: Removing the cover for this light fixture

texts:
There are three prongs that hold a dome shape cover together. One of the prong is spring loaded.

Normally, you would push the cover to the direction of the spring loaded prong, then the spring would extend enough and you can take out the cover. However, for this one the prong did not extend enough to slip the cover out. The spring loaded prong moves about 1 cm, but that is not enough for the cover to fall off.  I tried to push it very hard, but it still does not extend enough.

Each prong is screwed from the inside, so I cannot take it off.

Is there some special way of taking the cover off?


texts: Can I use eye hooks in a cement retaining wall for my garden project? (Support climbing rose bushes against a cement wall.)

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Here is a pic of the wall in question. Don't worry about the cracks. I already filled it in and am going to do the stairs when the weather gets drier outside. If you see the strip of soil that separates the retaining wall from the sidewalk that is where I want to plant climbing rose bushes. Due to limited space and for a simpler, cleaner appearance I was thinking of drilling some holes and then using rubber/plastic anchors to screw in some eye hooks. This was my idea instead of putting trellises in the ground. Then as the canes of the climbing rose bush grow I will use garden ties to bring them closer to the wall by tying them to the eye hooks.

Here is a pic of the area in question:

My plans are as follow:

Repair cracks and broken stairs.
Apply a textured concrete coating to the entire facade to improve appearance.
Water-seal it to protect it.
Install a few eye hooks with appropriate anchors that aren't too big to support climbing rosebushes.

Also, to minimize the appearance of the eye hooks can I paint over them with the textured concrete coating so that the metal isn't visible? If not, can anyone recommend a suitable substitute? I've never used a textured concrete coating before but it appears that you just paint it on with a roller or a brush. I hope this makes our retaining wall look a lot better. That's an important part of my overall goal with this project.

Basically the look I'm going for is a climbing rosebush that looks like it's "hugging" the wall. This is the rosebush I am buying:

Thanks.


texts:
I have an Electrolux (Frigidaire) stacked washer/dryer combo that is not agitating. The control circuity, lid latch, motor, and belt all seem to work. It fills, drains, spins, and with the lid open at the agitate cycle, and the switch manually engaged, the motor spins. Grasping at straws, I pulled the agitator itself off, and the "drive block" (spline gear) which is lose enough to turn does not turn.

I note that the transmission itself is stationary while the washer is in agitate cycle, but is free to and actually spins itself while in the spin/drain cycle.

It isn't clear at all how the transmission is signaled to engage the drive block, vs spinning the tub.

Is there any more reasonable steps I can take to diagnose and repair?

For clarity, my machine is an Electrolux mex731cfs1


texts: Want to drain/change compressor oil, but there's no outlet

texts:
I have an air compressor; the brand was supposedly Karson but it's actually a rebranded Fiac compressor. I wanted to change the oil; but I realized that it has a window-level, no actual dipstick and also there is no oil outlet. I feel like I'm being trolled.

See the pictures for reference.


texts: Is it better to remove existing floor before placing new one

texts: I have an existing marble floor in my kitchen in my house that is 40 years old. I am planning to put tiles there. Is it better to remove the marble floor and then place the tiles, or should I put the tiles over the marble floor.


texts: Keeping hot tub (spa) circuit line inside attic properly

texts:
I have a house with a circuit for a backyard SPA that is no longer present. I want to remove all wiring coming down from the attic, but want to leave the fat 220V line in place (in case I need in the future) and terminate it in the attic.

Which of the following would be the proper way to terminate the line inside the attic according to electrical code?

Just tape the wire ends, hang wires around to a stud, etc..
Add wire nuts/caps to wire ends instead of taping.
Add wire into a closed junction box, mount box in stud.
Add disconnect box (pull type, for future use) and mount in stud.

Any code-required location for box? Does it matter, should it be at any height?


texts:
I was planning to get our box upgraded from a old 100 amp Zinsco box to a newer possibly 200 amp box. I have been talking to a couple of companies and they have been wanting a arm and a leg, and also some other certified electricians (and some friends certified) that are independent and are more reasonable. We live in Houston Tx and our house was build back in 1964.
I have a couple of questions regarding that...
• Is a permit absolutely required for replacement and upgrade?
• Can you get inspected after replacement without a permit and without issues with insurance or what does insurance look at for compliance I guess?
• A couple of electricians (certified) said that they can upgrade to a 200 amp breaker without needing to upgrade the meter box and the service line since the house is “older and uses copper” and it’s supposedly sufficient enough?

Does that sound normal and sounds like something that wouldn’t work?

Main thing is I don’t want any issues with insurance or the city after the replacement, if a permit is not used. I keep reading mixed things and not sure what is right vs wrong. Of course a permit would be ideal but if I could save 500 if it’s not required and I can still get a inspection done properly, I don’t see why I need it.


texts: How can I move hot air from a cathedral ceiling to colder bedrooms?

texts:
My main living room has a 25 foot cathedral ceiling with a ceiling fan including a staircase going to the second story bedrooms. The thermostat is situated in this space.

There is space to install a vent and ducts to move air from this ceiling hot zone to the first floor main bedroom. I would like to create a system that has:

Has two temperature probes - one in a the "hot" area and the other in the "cold" area.
Controller which will detect if there is a "Max" difference between the hot and cold zone,
Start the fan in the new duct which will stop when the second "Min" temperature difference between the hot and cold zone is reached.

Is there something like this commercially available or do I have to cobble it together myself with a 1-wire system or multiple thermostats?


texts: How do I match the color of old wood with stain after a repair?

texts: I had a need to do a repair on some wooden trim in a kitchen. The new wood is the same type and grain as the piece that was removed, but the color is considerably different. The old wood was cleaned well, but it has a dark color such as would be expected considering the age and environment. How could I color or stain the new wooden piece to closely approximate the color of the older, weathered wood?


texts: which part of shaded-pole motor is electrified?

texts:
which part of a shaded pole motor is electrified? I plan to bring it to electrical shop to try it on their GFCIs. It can trip 50% of the time during start up or off in Leviton brand of GFCIs (any theory why)? But not other brands of GFCIs.

If you hold the laminated sheet/stator. Would you get electric shock? Would the flux induce electricity in your fingers (can you touch the cooper shading rings)?


texts: What is the right drill bit for concrete or stone walls?

texts: I'm living in an old apartment, circa 1945. The walls seem to be made of an incredibly hard stone or concrete. Any recommendations on the right drill bit type to use? My standard set doesn't even make a dent.


texts: Can bio fuel ethanol used as a main heating source?

texts:
I recently discovered some heaters based on "bio fuel" (ethanol).

Many products seem to be decorative and often present a modern design.

Some ethanol burners can be used in empty fireplaces and can deliver some moderate heating power.

It seems also that the emissions are very low, and there's usually no need for using a chimney.

Do you think that a solution based on ethanol can be used as a main heating source for a flat?


texts:
I have a closet opening that has never had a door on it (has had a curtan on a rod for 30+ years). I'd like to install a bi-fold or similar closet door. The problem is that the door opening is 44 inches and all of the doors I have seen are 24" or 36".

My plan is to narrow the opening by 8" on one side, or 4" on each side. Is this a good idea? If so, what is the best way to do this? Also, the wall is textured so what would be the easiest way to make this look nice with the existing wall?

This is for a house I'm trying to sell, so the cheapest/easiest solution (that isn't terrible) would be ideal.


texts: I have a very old Amana dehumidifier.  The setting is a range - Humid - Dry with 5 settings in between.  Can anyone explain would the lowest humidity be "humid" or "dry"


texts: Replaced 3-way lamp socket and cap doesn't fit

texts: I bought a replacement 3-way lamp socket and the cap on the new one is too small to thread into the lamp base.  I went to the hardware store and purchased an adapter so it would fit on the new lamp socket cap.  BUT now with the extra height of the adapter my harp is too short.  I found a floor lamp in the house to put on the lamp but now the lamp looks ridiculous as too much of the lamp socket shows and it is much taller than the matching lamp.  Is there a socket I can purchase with a larger socket cap so I don't have to remove the original thread from inside the lamp and can have the right size harp on the lamp?  I have been searching online but do not see offering for a larger cap on the socket.  Any help will be appreciated otherwise I suppose I am going to have to take to a lamp specialty shop.


texts: We have a small rec area, metal die cast tractors( about 8 bookshelves and 3 glass cases with a pool table and a concrete floor. What humidity level do I need to set my dehumidifier s on?


texts: Can only use 1 water source at a time? Shower stops running when faucet is on, vice versa

texts:
Ever since someone came to repair our sprinkler system, our water sources have been completely jank.
If I'm using the water faucet to wash my hands and someone flushes the toilet, the water to the faucet temporarily stops working.
If I'm taking a shower and someone uses the water faucet or flushes, the shower stops running water.
If we use two or more water sources simultaneously, only drops or a light drizzle of water will run for both parties.
Why is this? Is it able to be fixed on our own?


texts: Talking Thermostat also saying "two sixty four"

texts:
This has been asked before but there wasn't any solution. To top it off, I'm new and I can't ask the OP if he solved his problem. I may have to call him tonight. He's in the next town over. But let's see if anyone knows what the problem is.

Talking Thermostat VT1001 out of the blue starts saying "two sixty four". We had the fan circulating for a few days and all was well. Then the "two sixty four" started. So I shut the fan off. It's still doing it with the fan off.

Really unnerving when you're the only one in the house. Help!


texts: How to repair or replace rotted wood below the frame of large windows?

texts:
The wood below a few of our large windows (windows are 96"x36") is rotting. It's soft to the touch, and a mouse or rat took a couple chunks out of it last night. I called a siding company, who referred me to a window company, and both kind of scratched their heads. A carpenter told me it was too big a job for him on account of the windows.

What kind of service professional would be able to help me with this? What would be involved in a repair like this?

Here's a photo:


texts: Repair or exchange mower tire with different part number

texts:
I own the following rider:

Searching for the online parts I find the following document:

IPL, McCulloch, M95-66X, 96021002300, 2011-12, Ride-on Mower

So in order to replace the front (right) wheel, I would need to order piece number:

  532 43 65-00 WHEEL ASM (FRONT)

I am having a hard finding the exact dimension of this wheel, in particular I'd like to compare it to another model which seems to be much cheaper on internet:

IPL, McCulloch, Mowcart, 96021001200, 2010-12, Ride-on mower

  532 43 69-46 WHEEL ASM (FRONT)

Where can I find the exact dimension of the wheel, can I exchange one with the other ? Is it possible to repair the tire only ?

For reference here is what my tire looks like:

and


texts: What could the discolored areas on the underside of my roof be?

texts:
I had an inspection done on my house last year before I bought it, and was told by the inspector that the dark discolored areas of the plywood on the bottom side of my roof was likely "dark staining cause by poor ventilation and air circulation" and that it did not appear to be mold.

I guess my question(s) are what would cause the dark stains? Moisture? What else could it be besides mold?

You can also see dark areas on the plywood on the sides too.

I've seen several pictures online that looks similar to mine that claim they have mold.

I just wanted some ideas as to what this might be before I spent a lot of money on mold testing and treatment.


texts: Kitchen drain plumbing leak at double P-trap

texts:
This is the plumbing setup under our kitchen sink, there are two p-traps, one for the kitchen sink and another for the dishwasher that both feed into the drain pipe.

The black p-trap (dishwasher) which is currently broken is leaking at the p-trap. If you were to take a pot of water and dump it into the sink, the water will start leaking almost instantly out of the black p-trap (a lot of water). At first, we thought maybe a clog, so we snaked the drain (25 ft) and came up with nothing, the pipes seem clean, we can't determine why it's leaking constantly (when the water is running).

Does the drain pipe need to be pitched down more? Should we remove the additional p-trap?


texts: How to fix this leak in my on-demand water heater

texts: The picture below shows the leak that my on-demand water heater developed. What's the likeliest culprit? Is it where the blue tube connects to the fitting or is it the fitting itself? In either case, can it be repaired? Also, what do you call the conic-shaped gasket that creates the seal in the compression fitting?


texts: Is it possible for wind driven rain to be forced into soffit vents?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Can wind force rain into the soffits?

Apologies if this question was asked before.

I've recently noticed slight paint peeling in two ceiling locations, right next to (two different) undereave vents in my roof. The vents are at the very top of the exterior wall, right under the roof itself.  The house was repainted about 1.5 years ago,  no peeling elsewhere.

This side of the house is subject to strong wind-driven rain. I'm wondering
if rain could be blowing up into the vents.   The rain would actually have to travel slightly upward to do so, but the wind gusts are very strong.

Is this plausible?  Right now, the vents are covered only by a wire mesh.
 What would an appropriate replacement be for these conditions?


texts: How can I fix this leak behind my toilet?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How can I fix this leak?

There's a leak in the tube behind my toilet.

 (see the drops of water coming out of the joint ?)

What would be the easiest way to fix that ?


texts:
I want to re-position expansion tank approx 2m present location is under the bath, the bath is to be removed to allow for installation of a shower, I want to re-position tank in a cupboard adjacent to new shower, basically disconnecting existing fittings and extending all necessary pipework etc. what's the procedure
JG


texts: how to communicate thermostat to turn on wood heat system when during heat pump defrost cycle

texts:
I have physically disconnected the strip heaters in my air handler but the fan still runs which I do not want.  I have a wood boiler I want to run in place of the aux heat

Can I disconnect the white wire from the thermostat and use this to signal a relay to turn on wood heat blower ?
Will the system still defrost if the white wire is disconnected at the thermostat?


texts: Gas Fireplace Pilot Light Line Replacement

texts:
I'm replacing the pilot light assembly on a gas fireplace after removing the old line from the valve, there's no indication any thread sealant was used on the original installation.

Is there any situation with gas line connections where you wouldn't use thread sealing tape (yellow)?


texts: Troubleshooting Four Fluorescent Light Fixtures

texts: In my office, I have four fluorescent T-8 4'/4 lamp surface mount fixtures. All four are on the same three-way switch. I just replaced 3 of the four fixtures. Two of the new fixtures adjacent to each other (same location opposite sides of the high part of the ceiling) do not work.  The other two that work are on opposite sides of the office over both exterior doors. I used a non-contact tester and both non-working lights have a hot wire.  Since the other two fixtures work, does this mean I have two separate neutrals?  Any ideas on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.


texts: I need to install an exhaust fan in my bath on the main floor but I have no place to vent it but down through the basement and out a window.  Is this Okay?


texts: Can I use a smaller tank with a 1/2 hp shallow well pump? And how can I tell if it is my tank that it is no good.I do not know if it has bladders in it because it is about 20 yrs old.