texts: Combining 2 110v wall plugs (different breakers) to be 220v?

texts:
Good morning electrical geniuses, here's a problem for you.

I have a piece of equipment that requires a 220v connection, and I do not have the ability to run a 220v line from the breaker. Is there a Y adaptor I could buy to combine 2 different phases of 110v to create a 220v power strip?  all of the 110v outlets that I have access to are 20a breakers, so would this new 240v line give me 40a (assuming the hardware and wire gauge can handle it)?

The hardware is going to draw something in the neighborhood of 3200w/15a @ 220v (3200w/30a @ 110v), so if I combined 2x 110v/20a with a high gauge Y adaptor, I shouldn't have any problem as long as the wiring was correct?

I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm a mechanical one...  Help, please :)

Edit 1: @ThreePhaseEel
Here are photos of the electrical panel.  The room with my specific panel is locked, but this is one of 3 identical rooms per floor, 4 floors.  The room next to mine is occupied by someone who only has things plugged into the walls in the room, so if our bathroom receptacles are connected It won't matter.


texts: Are there any "easy" ways to trace a home electrical system?

texts: We bought a home a few months ago, and the electrical panel (and subpanel) are completely unlabelled. We have no way, short of flipping breakers, to know what breaker powers which fixtures. Is there a better way to map a home's electrical system so that I can label the breakers?


texts: Why does water in the toilet bowl empty?

texts: Water in the toilet bowl is emptying after a minute. I just changed to a higher toilet (16.75) for an elderly resident. I have three other toilets without this problem. I have tried adjusting water in tank and have checked for leaks. How can I fix this?


texts: Building a 4’ picket fence with steel posts?

texts: I’m prepping to build a 4’ wood picket fence in our yard. I’ve been seeing a lot of blogs and videos about using steel posts instead of 4x4s for wood fences for better durability. most of them seem to be referring to 6-8’ privacy fences. Just wondering if there’s any reason not to do that for my smaller fence or if anyone has done it before?


texts: How can I automatically disconnect a coffee maker and space heater without tripping the building's 20A circuit breaker?

texts:
My small office has a 20A breaker and we have to run a space heater in the winter or else we freeze to death. Whenever someone turns on the coffee maker, the office circuit breaker trips and everyone's computers are down for 10 minutes while someone goes and resets the breaker. We've tried implementing a policy of shutting off the space heater before starting the coffee maker, but it's too easy for people to forget.

I plugged both devices into a power strip rated at 15 amps, and I assumed since it had a reset switch, it would actually trip at 15A. Much to my surprise, the office breaker still tripped. I also tried a different 15A power strip with the same results.

I then plugged the power strip into a Kill-A-Watt meter and it measured over 22A with the coffee maker and space heater both running, before I unplugged everything. My best guess is that both the office breaker and the power strip have time-delay breakers, but the office breaker is on a shorter delay. Another theory is that the power strips are manufactured to very loose tolerances and will only trip if the current far exceeds 15A.

So my questions are:

Why isn't the 15A power strip tripping? Should it even have a time delay?
If we just need to buy a better power strip, is there an easy (and safe) way to test at what current a power strip will trip, aside from plugging a bunch of stuff in and potentially tripping the office breaker instead? (Edit: I think I found the answer to this one.)
If all else fails, what can I install between the wall and the appliances which will trip the space heater and coffee maker before the office breaker trips?


texts: Stranded wire gauge too small for push-in connector(USA)

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I'd like to use these push-in connectors along with the stranded wire connections inside a light fixture.

3-port push-in connector

I'm using these connectors because space is limited inside the fixture. Two romex bundles come into the fixture. For each connection to the light, I need to connect two solid wires (from the romex cables) to the corresponding stranded wire inside the fixture.

The problem is the fixture's stranded wires are too small to work with the push-in connector. Is there a proper way to easily upsize stranded wire (like some kind of soldered terminal) such that it will work with the connector? (as opposed to splicing the stranded wire to a short solid jumper with a small wire nut).


texts: Can I run wire from my meter to a shed for a subpanel?

texts: I want to wire my shed for 100amp. My breaker box in house has no more space. Can i run wire from my outdoor meter on the side of the house under ground to 100 amp breaker box in the shed


texts: Concrete crack repair: (polyurethane) crack filler versus new concrete patch

texts:
What are the pros and cons of using crack filler like Sikaflex Polyurethane Sealant or its self-leveling type versus concrete patch like Quikrete Concrete Patch Repair?
My understanding is that if cracks (not control joints) are large enough to use either option, the concrete patch will be superior in strength and does not introduce a very different material (although it has polymer additives).
More specifically, I am thinking of cracks on driveway as well as small hairline cracks on pool decks (at the four corners), if these special situations change any consideration.


texts: Do cracks in softwood boards indicate structural problems?

texts:
I received my terrace decking boards today. Almost all of them have fairly deep cracks on the ends and some have cracks on the face.
Should these be considered as critical damages or I should still be able to use them in my construction? The wood is Siberian larch, so very resistant to rot.
Should I expect them to get deeper with time?


texts: Switch leg to light/ceiling fan with two 14/2 cables

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I'm installing a ceiling fan with a light kit and want to control the fan and light separatly from two separate switches in the same two-gang box via a switch leg (power comes in through the fan). It seems that I need 4 wires for this - one hot, two load, and one neutral. Would it be a code violation to use two 14/2 cables to accomplish this task? I could buy 14/2/2, but it's not widely available and is pricey. Am I over thinking this, or is there an easier way to do it?

Many thanks in advance for the help.


texts: Combi boiler lighting hourly to warm heat exchanger - is this normal?

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I have an Ideal Isar HE24. It lights for 2 minutes once an hour to warm the heat exchanger and 'optimise delivery time for domestic hot water to taps or showers'...

The problem is that this is burning a small fortune in gas for a function I use once a day in the morning for a shower - all of my appliances heat their own water and I'm out of the house 14 hours a day 5 days a week.

Is the normal functionality for a combi boiler? (first one I've lived with) if not it could actually be worth replacing the boiler as this appears to be adding £400 per year to my energy bills.


texts: Came across this room with broken acoustic ceiling tiles, that I have to spend time working. The tiles look kinda "modern" to contain asbestos, but then again you never know. Wondered if anyone can recognize the material(s) they're made of. Many thanks.


texts: Is it safe to seal the exterior of a stone chimney?

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We have a 1938 stone chimney (not brick) that is severely deteriorated. We are going to repair the mortar immediately and put a cap on top, but we're unsure about weatherproofing the stone. We do want to prevent this deterioration in the future.

One company suggested spraying on an exterior silicone sealant that will prevent moisture and water to pass through the stone.

Another suggested applying a waterproofing chemical that still allows the moisture to pass through so that the stone can breathe. They said that sealants are not ideal because they don't allow moisture to escape and the stone the breathe.

Which method is the best and why?


texts: Going from dual bowl sink to single bowl

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I am going from an old dual bowl sink, which contained a garbage disposal which I am trashing, to a single bowl sink.

I have a Y pvc splitter glued to the waste line. Is there a way to cap off one of the ends of the splitter?

With the one remaining open port I was planning on purchasing a new p-trap and straight pipe with dishwasher runoff plugin to attach to the new sink.

Am I missing anything in connecting to a new sink? Do I need to have a plumber come and remove the Y-splitter and start with a fresh connection to the waste line?

Thanks,
Mike


texts:
[latch bolt still in door jambThe latch bolt for my exterior door is stuck inside the door jamb. I have removed both door handles, but can't get the door open to get at the latch plate or strike plate. Short of taking the entire door off the hinges (it's 10 degrees in MN...), other suggestions?

I believe it's a Kwikset Titan lock.


texts: Installing new panels in concrete fence posts with overhanging tree branches

texts: I need to install some new fence panels into concrete posts, the kind with a slot intended to allow you to drop panels in from above, however there are overhanging trees that will render this traditional method of installing the panels impossible.  I've tried removing the strips of wood at the top and bottom of the panel that keep it rigid and bending them in, but I'm unable to bend them far enough to get them into place (maybe with assistance I'd be able to do this, but unfortunately I'll have to do this job by myself).  Are there any other tricks I might be able to use to get the panels into the slots?


texts: What are the pros and cons between these LED under cabinet lighting options?

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Tape lights VS Aluminum Frame lights.

Obviously, the frame is a bigger profile, an inch tall, but as long as it's hidden underneath the cabinet it's not really a problem. Our cabinets also have an extra bottom trim to cover it up.

The frame also has individual switches that may be useful.

Other than these, are there any other pros and cons? Is the frame type outdated? Are the LED tape lights what everyone's getting? Is there a price factor? I've seen other tape lights not as pricey, I'm not sure why there are so pricey.


texts: Doorbell low voltage converter sharing breaker

texts: Can a doorbell low voltage converter share another circuit's breaker by both wires plugging into it? Or should a single wire go into the breaker but split it inside the panel using a wire but? Or does it require its own whole breaker/circuit?


texts: Is high temperature an issue with underfloor heating?

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I have an underfloor heating installed and it takes significant amount of time (~2 hours) for the floor to heat up when pushing 30-35C hot water into the pipes
Is it a problem if I set a much higher temperature (such as 50-60C) and run it for a shorter time?


texts: Could a spade bit be used to widen an existing hole in a wooden cabinet?


texts: Plumbing question adding a filter pipe diameter concerns

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I am going to be adding a whole house filter to my water plumbing.   I am on well water.  I have 1 1/4" pipe coming from the pump going to the filter however the inlet for the filter in only 3/4".  After the filter i would go back to the 1 1/4" to the pressure tanks then to the house main supply lines.

Will the pipe size change for the filter cause issues? Or should i put tge filter after the pressure tanks?


texts: Can an LED light sold in US be used where voltage is 220?

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The packaging on an LED light does not limit voltage. If it is sold in US can it be used safely where voltage is 220?
Here is an example


texts: What it is this thing above the ceiling?

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It is in apartment on 10th floor.
I suppose it may be the ventilation tube, but I can't understand why the ventilation tube has such a thick walls. And why it ends there, instead of going to some grill in the ceiling...


texts: Is my range hood re-circulation or extraction?

texts:
Above our cooker/range/hobs there is a range hood.
How can I tell whether it is extraction (I.E. it takes the air outside)
Or
re-circulation (I.E. It cleans it but sends it back into the kitchen)?
The wall you can see behind the hood is an interior wall, if relevant.


texts: How to remove shower drain piece (grip from inside)?

texts:
I'm trying to unblock a shower drain. However the drain snake won't go far in, it hits solid bottom. I suspect the design is as in the diagram below, and will need to remove the second metal piece (I've already removed the cap) to be able to get the snake into the drain (right).

How can I remove it? It's inset to the shower, so I can't get any force on it. Is there a smart way to grip it from the inside?


texts: Is this the correct wiring for Honeywell humidifier?

texts:
Additional Info:
Make/Model of furnace: Bryant / 310AAV042090
Link to Installation Instructions: https://www.carrierenterprise.com/bryant-legacy-80-afue-90-000-btuh-multipoise-gas-furnace-310aav042090#tab-documents
I've reconnected my whole house humidifier but wanted to run by what I did with an expert or someone who's done this before.  Don't want to ruin my furnace.
I recently purchased a house with a whole house humidifier, a Honeywell HE360A.

The inspector said it wasn't working and sure enough, it doesn't work.  I started troubleshooting the setup and everything looks good until the wiring from the humidifier enters the furnace and ends at some kind of relay.  There's no wiring from the furnace to the relay so there's no power or communication from the furnace to the humidifier.

I started looking around the circuit board to see if there were any wires or plugs dangling that needed to be plugged in.  That's when I noticed this piece of wiring laying on the floor next to the furnace.  It seems to be the connection between the relay and the furnace circuit board.

So, I did some research and looked at some wiring diagrams and it looks like I need to do the following:  The end of the wire with the two connectors connects to the relay, doesn't seem to matter what order but I matched the red and the white on the top.  Then the end with one connector and one bare wire goes to the circuit board.  The connector goes to the HUM and the bare wire goes to the COM 24V.  Is this the correct way to wire this?

Here's the wiring diagram of the furnace.


texts: How best to cut vinyl drafting board cover?

texts:
I'm topping an office desk with Vyco (an Alvin product which has few competitors e.g. Borco). The material is a 1/16th inch thick, very tough, and flexible. They advertise that scissors work; but in my practice that results in a very uneven cut. It's also insanely expensive.

Will a flush-trim bit on a router work? I have visions of too much heat blobbing the cut into a melted mess.

I can report that both a flush-trim bit and a 3/8" quarter-round work extremly well. It does appear as tho the vinyl melts; but it also appears that only the removed portions are hot enough. The effluent does tend to stick to itself and glom itself into a sort of fuzzy mess; but it brushes off easily. There was no noticible smell from the heated vinyl (the plywood substrate gave off a nasty formaldehyde oder).

All edges were securely fastened down with 1" 3M double-sided polyester tape; and all the bits used were very sharp high-end bits.

Very pleased with the result and recommend a router to anyone.


texts: What backer board should I use in shower ceiling?

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I'm tiling my shower up to about 7' and the rest of the shower and ceiling will simply be painted. What material should I use on those?

I am using RedGard as my waterproofing method so there will not be any waterproofing BEHIND the backer board.


texts: How to install a door in a load bearing basement wall that is only 80 inches high

texts:
I would like to install a door in a load baring wall in my basement that is only 80 inches from the floor to the joist.

It's an old 1940s home where half the house has joists running east west and half running north south. The two joists come together just past the load baring wall.

I want to know what my best options are to install a door between the existing studs and only removing one stud. Goal is it to have the doorway to be as high as possible.

Please see attached pictures for clarification.

enter image description here.


texts: Electric water heater thermostat keeps tripping and needing reset

texts:
I have a 40-gal A.O. Smith Promax electric water heater (see pics below). It was a few years old when we bought the house, and we've been living here about 10 years. So I realize the heater may be reaching the end of its life, but I'm trying to see if I can replace a specific part and squeeze a few more years out of it.

It's always ran perfectly fine. A few days ago, we went to do dishes and noticed there was no hot water, only lukewarm water (again, not hot, but not freezing cold either). I went down to the basement and can confirm that there was no water leaking out from underneath it. I started to monkey around with it, and did the following:

Cut the power to it
Used a multimeter on both the elements (there are two) to confirm conductivity across them, and there was
Used the multimeter to also confirm conductivity going into and out of the thermostat (there was)
Turned the power back on to it
Pressed the reset button (red button in the photo below), and immediately heard it turn on and start working
Waited a few hours and confirmed we had hot water (although it bounces back and forth between frigid and scalding hot...)

Hoping we were in the clear, I went back to business as usual.

Last night, same thing: no hot water, only lukewarm. This time I just hit the red reset button and -- voila -- 2 hrs later, hot water is restored. I went to take a shower and again, the water bounced back and forth between freezing and scalding hot, took a lot of fine tuning with the faucet to get the water just right.

I'm wondering what the possible problems could be? Is it just a bad thermostat perhaps, or a similar/related part? I'd rather try and swap that out with a new one for ~$100 than replace the entire tank!

Is there any way to test the thermostat or related parts to see if they are in fact functioning improperly? What diagnostic steps can be recommended here to rule out before "going nuclear" and replacing the whole unit?


texts: Connecting C-wire in the furnace (C terminal already taken up)

texts:
Trying to install an Ecobee. This is the picture I see inside my furnace. As you can see, a redwire has already taken up the terminal marked C (?running to A/C unit). Where should I connect the C-wire that is hanging in the air?
Thanks in advance


texts: How do I stop water from getting into floor vent?

texts:
We have a heating vent located on the floor close to a shower. Occasionally when the floor gets wet it can act like a drain and it causes issues on the ceiling of the floor below.
I could use caulk to permanently seal the vent cover to the floor but I don’t want to do something permanent like that.
What are some other options?


texts: I have a new pressure tank (WX-202) and don't think it's set up properly. Set at 40/60, I should have a drawdown of 5.4 gallons according to spec. I'm getting about 3.5 gallons before the pump kicks back in. Also, the well pump fills the tank to 60psi in just under 20 seconds. I realize my pump is probably too much for the tank, and will be installing a CSV anyway. But i still feel there is something else wrong in this system.


texts: With what do I stick hard rubber together?

texts:
What I want to is make my desk chair slide on carpet. I'm going to use bell gliders and affix them to furniture cups for carpets

Safety is my concern. I weigh 190 pounds.


texts:
I just finished repairing some heavy damage on my steel and cast iron front gate. I'm ready to hang it again but I'm having a little trouble because the pillars on both sides have a slight outward lean. The lean existed before the damage, and I can't / don't want to really fix it, but since it was already a problem pre-damage (the latch never engaged properly) I'd like to improve it while I have the chance.
I've exaggerated it in this drawing:

A top-down view is at the bottom to hopefully clarify.
I'm welding it all back together, so I'm flexible with component positioning (including mounting the lock box [this] at an angle if necessary, and the strike plate position and offset).
At its narrowest (on the bottom) the gate is about 3/4" narrower than the posts, so minimum 3/8" on each side if its centered. At the top the gate is 1 5/8" narrower than the posts, so maximum 13/16" on each side if its centered.
The gate is left-handed reverse, the current trim / stop piece is about 1-1/2" wide. The posts are 2x2" square tube, the gate frame is 2x1" square tube.
The hinges I have now are 5"x5" butt hinges (these).
The pillars are roughly 2'x2'.
I'm having trouble figuring out how best to mount this gate. My goals are pretty evenly spread between:

A balanced swing (slightly out of balance is OK -- but just a little).
Not overshooting the post when closing (good contact between trim and post when closed).
Latch engaging properly (lock box holds a mortise lock, keyed on both sides, deadbolt + latch).
Hiding the crookedness / looking nice.

So my question is; is there anything I can do to achieve all of those, or at least a good compromise?
If I could straighten the pillars I would, but they're crooked due to settling over the last 80-90 years (this is a brownstone in the city), and it's affected by neighboring structures. The masonry work on the pillars is in great condition, the crack from settling is on the ground directly centered between the posts. That's a long way of saying those pillars aren't budging at all.
The posts themselves also aren't going anywhere. They're bolted into the pillars in multiple places and also the bottoms are set 3" or so into the concrete floor. Straightening those isn't a project I feel comfortable taking on.
What are my options here?


texts: How to fix a through hole in stucco on the outside of the house?

texts:
Some contractors drilled some holes on the outside of the house and I need to patch them up.

One hole is about 1 to 1.5" in diameter. They drilled through so that they can put a piece of wire through to feel for studs! (apparently a stud finder didn't work)

There are some other smaller holes...they used a small drill bit...maybe 1/4" diameter.

My question is how do I patch those holes up? These holes don't have a surface on the other side.  If I were to just fill it with something there's nothing on the other side for the filler to hold on to, right?

What should I do this fix?

Can I just fill the hole with stucco patching compound? (Something like Quikrete Pre-Mixed Stucco Patch?)

UPDATE:
I can access some holes from the attic. Is there something that I can do from the back side of the hole from the attic? Should I screw in a metal mesh on the back side in the attic and then go to the outside and fill the whole with stucco patching compound?


texts: (Need help)- Can I wire a ceiling fan/light fixture from an existing 3-way switched outlet?

texts:
Link to Imgur for pictures with reference drawings: https://imgur.com/a/ETfCvZl

As title says, I'm trying to wire a new ceiling fan/light fixure. I currently have a 3 way switch that controls one switched outlet. I am pretty confident that my source power is running to the switch closest to the outlet.

My question is, is it possible to just run 12/2 wires from the outlet that is switched(half hot) directly to my new fan for power and a switch? I would rather not mess with rewiring the switch, and as long as the outlet stays on with my fan/light being on I would be content. I understand basic wiring, but I'm unsure of how to connect my wires from my ceiling box to this switched outlet.


texts: Shutoff in shower very tight all of the sudden

texts: I have a Symmons hot/cold shutoff in my shower. Normally, when I shut it off it goes a little beyond "12 o'clock" (more like 12:30/1:00). Anyways, I've noticed lately that it stops at exactly "12 o'clock" now and is now very difficult to turn back on. Is this because of the weather?  I live in Massachusetts and we just recently had to start using the heat. Is this normal?


texts:
I'm new to "DIY home-electricity improvment", so I appreciate every detail that you provide.
I have a 70 amp circuit breaker that I want to use. How can I get three (15 amp outlets) from this breaker? For example, if I connect 6guage wire to this breaker, how can I connect that wire to three 15amp outlets? Looking at a picture of "6 gauge" wire, I see that it has multiple wires inside of it, does that means that I can connect an outlet to every single one of them?


texts: When using a hand saw, why does my cut keep wandering off the line? (originally posted by glw)

texts: This was the highest voted question posted as part of the Woodworking Proposal phase. Please sign up, thanks to glw.


texts:
Two out of 3 Bromic tungsten Infrared patio heaters sparked and completely burned the connector wire at teh bulb.

Bromic engineers initially said the units were faulty and replaced them but later said the units burned up due to voltage or amp swings.

I asked what an acceptable voltage swing is and they said -5 to +5. I asked how to measure that and what to do if the vltage swing is too high. They said ask my electrician which i did and he said he did not know.

I am afraid to turn on the heaters because Bromic said they will not replace them again and the units are $700 per unit. HELP!!


texts: Shop 3-way switches for two receptacles with 2 additional receptacles not controlled by the 3-way switches

texts:
In my newly framed shop I have two entry doors that I would like to put 3-way switches next to in order to operate lights plugged into receptacles installed on the ceiling.

I would like to have a box in the ceiling with four receptacles, two that will be hot all the time for battery tenders an two that will have lights plugged into operated by the 3-way switches.

How do I go about wiring this application? Is it possible to have two outlets continuously hot for my battery tenders and two outlets for the plug-in lights operated by the 3-way switches next to each door?

I have a 20 amp breaker with 12-2 wire from the panel that I am utilizing.


texts: Adding 240v (NEMA 14-50) outlet right behind breaker panel

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The breaker panel is on the outside wall, right next to my garage. I want to install a 240v outlet right behind the panel, thru the wall.

If i open the panel, there are those round metal covers that can be popped to run cables into the box.
Removing one shows the back of the interior drywall. ( since the breaker panel is recessed into the exterior wall)

Idea is simple. Add a 50amp breaker and just drill thru the drywall, run the appropriate cables (about 3 feet)  thru the hole and straight into one of these:

Levinton 50 Amp, 125/250 Volt, NEMA 14-50R, 3P, 4W, Surface Mounted Receptacle

No wires would be exposed.

Would this be against code or any safety hazards that i need to be aware of?


texts:
Last night I applied a Natural Oak wood stain to a large oak beam in my kitchen (mainly just to even out the tone and mask a lot of the awful filler previous owners had shoved in there).

On the one hand, this worked like a charm and the colour is perfect. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that it was a Satin finish, and as a result my lovely oak beam has a reflective shine to it, which I definitely, definitely do not want.

I have only applied one layer of the stain thus far, cut with about 25% water. I've read elsewhere that wet-sanding it with a 1000 or 1200-grit paper will help remove the gloss; is this my only option? I was intending to add at least one more layer, and was wondering if simply applying a matte-finish wood stain over the existing satin one would flatten it back down again.

If all else fails (and bearing in mind I am willing to re-apply more wood stain), would a more abrasive sanding technique help, or simply make things more difficult?


texts: Is this broken pipe the reason my freezer is not working? Can it be fixed?

texts:
The freezer is old, but I am a renter so I couldn't say how old. On the back there is a sticker that says “HUAYI B43CB”;

It has been stopping intermittently for the last week, and in the last two days it has not come on at all. Everything is now room temperature. It dosen’t have a light, but it is certainly plugged in and switched on.

Looking inside I see that one of the pipes in the shelf of the freezer is broken;

Is this why the freezer is not working? Can it be fixed?


texts: Can I steal a neutral from another fixture on the same circuit?

texts:
I have a gang of 4 switch box, 3 switches are on the same circuit. There is no neutral or ground and it is knob and tube wiring, so I don't want to fix this (from what I've seen, the rubber/cloth housing looks good).
From what I understand, the reason for the neutral is to always have a closed circuit to power the smart switch.  So I was thinking that if I put a smart bulb in one of the circuits and have smart switches in the other two, I should be able to wire the neutral to the smart bulb circuit.
So, changing this:

To something like this:

I have a feeling that the smart bulb load might get in the way of the neutral though.  Perhaps I would have to remove the smart bulb out of the circuit and short that line, like so?

That wouldn't be optimal, but it is the least useful out of the bulbs as I have auxiliary lighting in that area.  I would of course, would have to put some sort of documentation in the boxes to remember what I had done.
Is it possible (not necessarily with my circuits, but with a similar idea)?
Edit
FYI, all circuits are using dimmable LED bulbs, so an overload is not a concern.  Ground would be floating, but that shouldn't be a concern as the switch plate would cover any exposed metal.
Edit 2
I am of course interested if what I am proposing is against code.


texts:
I recently came across someone who was throwing away an old craftsman air-tank and compressor. They claimed the compressor did now work anymore as it would never build pressure.
I had an old compressor laying around from project involving an airhorn. I understand that the compressor I have is not necessarily made for the purpose I intend but I had it laying around and thought I could simply remove the old compressor, replace it with mine, rewire it and call it a day.
The compressor for the airhorn has only a power and ground while the 3-prong has white, black and green. From the compressor I ran red (power) to the black on the 3 prong, capped off the white (neutral) and connected both grounds (green on the 3 prong and black on the compressor) to a bracket I had to attach to the tank. Plugged it in and nothing works. The compressor worked before I pulled it off the truck.
Any advice? Did I wire this correctly?


texts: How to remove markings from laundry sink

texts:
The laundry sink plug was blocked at one stage and did not drain properly. After the plug was unblocked there were markings which were left on the sides of the sink - see the image below:

These markings appear to be a stain, rather than material stuck to the surface. Any suggestions on how to clean it? I have tried bleach but that had little effect.


texts: Shower valve washer on hot needs replacing constantly

texts:
We've got a setup very similar to the picture in the answer to this:

3 valve shower allowing flow to tub and shower

I've read some similar questions here, but none is just like this:

The washer, whether it be flat or domed, on the valve next to the seat wears out by being crushed all the time, by requiring more pressure each time to close the hot valve completely to keep it from dripping, trickling, or leaking eventually becoming completely destroyed so as to require replacement. The water continues to come from the tub faucet head, as the diverter is left in the neutral position when not in use. They will come from the shower head eventually if left in that position, or the third option...

Replacing the seat once caused this not to happen for the longest period, but I just checked it, and it's still looking great/fine.

Any ideas? Using a 3/8" L type right now. Maybe there is some other solution that isn't quite obvious, or maybe a special material that won't just become completely more crushed with each turn. This last one lasted like a month...

Here's what I could find in way of brand marking. It looks like a "DI" in a square, then the "CSA" mark (C wrapping around SA).

Here's an image of the crushed dome washer

Here's the new flat style (rotating out the dome), installed:


texts: Minimizing risk of structual damage when hanging heavy bag from ceiling using commercially-available mounting system

texts:
I would like to mount a 100 lb heavy bag using a system detailed in the attached picture (FirstLaw Fitness Shock Mount). The system is designed to be mounted between and directly to 2 joists that are 16" on center with included lag bolts. My garage ceiling is covered with drywall with a bedroom above. I assume (hope) that the gas strut on the mounting plate will somewhat help with noise and vibration (no impact on load path), but my largest concern is mitigating unsafe loading conditions on the ceiling. I saw an earlier post where a structural engineer suggested not attaching the mount directly to the joist. Was this to provide mitigation for vibration/noise?

Can anyone provide a "safer" installation idea or are the instructions adequate? Based on an earlier answer, could I further distribute the load if I attached a 2x6 or 2x4 on the ceiling so that it runs under the floor joist for a couple of feet, do the same to the next joist over and then attach the mount perpendicular to and on the 2x6's? If this is acceptable, what size and length of lag bolts would be required since they would need to go through the 2x6 and into the joist? When attaching the mount to the 2x6's, would the lag bolts also need to go into the joist? And finally, if this idea provides for better load distribution/safer install, is there concern that it does require more holes being drilled into the joist?

If anyone has a better/easier/safer idea, I would be most interested. A diagram with dimensions would be great.


texts: What's the purpose of a wire from stud to outside?

texts:
On a couple of my studs there is a small gauge wire that seems to go through the outside wall to the outdoors (into the flue cavity) as shown in the picture. What is its purpose?

This is on the wall above a fireplace where a TV was hanging. (Thus the tags for the question.)


texts:
I have a door in my cellar that is stuck.  Of course, my tools are all on the other side of said door (but I guess my credit card isn't, so that is a plus).

It has no lock and I cannot run anything between the door frame and the door as it has a kind of right-angle shape to it (so the front bit of the door overhangs the frame).

It is also made of metal.  (honestly, I think the people that built this house were preparing for the apocalypse or something).

It is fairly cold outside (about -9 C) and hence the cellar is also not warm, my theory as to why it is stuck now runs into the realm of metal shrinking when it gets cold.

Irrespective of why, I need to get into that room, so does anyone have any idea what I should do?

I am thinking that my only option is to remove the hinges somehow but as you can see they are monsters, or trying to heat up the door (maybe pray for warmer weather but as I live in Austria, that will likely be some months off).

Update

I put a wrong comment on this question to Mikes. Sorry Mikes.  I performed some more investigation, using a Christmas card I tore two strips and ran them along the edge of the door (one from the bottom up and one from the top down) and they both stopped at the handle thingie.  I then turned the handle and tried to move the card - it did not move.  Hence I think the handle is not moving the triangular metal thingie in when it turns.

It is not flapping, however, which makes me think that removing the handle (something I think I can do with a kitchen knife and a pair of my wife's tweezers) will not help me - what do you think?

Instead I took an out of date roadside rescue service membership card and fashioned the following tool:

Here it is being tested on a door that is the same and thankfully open:

I noticed a small gap thus on the top of the door where I can slide it down:

The problem with this approach is that the tool is too thick to fit between the frame and the bit I have to push in!  Arrrggh.  It needs to be double-thickness because otherwise it will not be strong enough to push it in (I tested this).

I think, therefore, that I will go to the hardware store and see if I can get thin bit of metal bent into the shape I need.  I don't know if this will be possible.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Here are the original photos of the situation:


texts: How do you add a T join in to an existing underground drain pipe?

texts:
I have an existing drain pipe that takes water from our roof catchment, and sends it down into our drinking water tank (this is our household water supply).  We now have a new building, and I wish to route the extra rain water from this roof into the same pipe.  So I want to add a T-junction to this existing pipe, and route the new roof pipe into it.

I have repaired broken in-ground agricultural pipe sections before, but had (too much) trouble trying to insert joiners as there is no "give" in the buried pipe.  Eventually I used rubber-sleeve type joins, but am unsure of using these with drinking water.

So, short of digging up 20 metres of pipe to get some extra bend/movement, with an existing 100mm UPVC "poly" pipe in the ground, is there technique for adding a new T-intersection?

Not relevant: Add T fitting to pipe


texts: Any ideas why my Currys CID45B13 dishwasher won't let me select a wash cycle?

texts:
Any ideas why my dishwasher (model Currys CID45B13) won't let me select a wash cycle? All connected to the mains, all lights come on as normal, but none of the buttons work.

Any ideas how I can fix this?


texts: Expanding nylon dowel to fix a U shaped rail fails

texts:
I'm trying to fix a rail and bracket type of shelf this one to be precise.

Having a plasterboard wall, I picked self expanding nylon dowels like this.

My problem is, the rail being U shaped, as soon as I screw, the dowel is pulled out from the wall instead of expanding into it, as expected o_O How should I proceed.


texts:
I have a bunch of 2 prong outlets in my house. I am using a multimeter to see if they are grounded (1 in the hot slot and 1 on the screw). Almost all have read either zero (not grounded) or 120 (grounded). However, there are two outlets that read 50-60 volts when testing. Are these grounded or not grounded? Maybe they are grounded and the wiring on the box needs to be fixed?

Thanks


texts:
Had a mess up on my poly with streaks so decided to redo and take back down to wood. Is it necessary to redo the sides or can I just sand down over the end and leave the rest as per picture.

Thanks!


texts: Workarounds for single-zone HVAC? Second thermostat? Adjust vents?

texts:
I have a two story brick home built in 1970 with a relatively new HVAC system blowing through original ductwork. In the summer its too hot upstairs and too cold downstairs. I know that the full solution is to rework the ducts and introduce a second zone. This is not practical at this time.

I can often get the upstairs temps to be comfortable (mid-70's) by simply forcing the fan on and closing vents in unoccupied rooms. When I do this the temperatures downstairs will drop to the mid-60's. At night this actually makes the entire house too cold to be comfortable. There is also the added cost of having the blower run all the time.

If it matters I work from home. I am here all day so summer comfort is important.

Is there an intermediate fix I can make until I have saved enough to go to a two-zone system?

Can I install a second thermostat? A smarter thermostat?

Are there any vent opening/closing tricks I can try?


texts: Why is my shallow well jet pump cycling on and off rapidly?

texts:
We have a Goulds ITT Jet+ Jet Pump pumping from a shallow well.

The pump was always working fine until today when I replaced the previous hose going into the well with a new one and a new 1" galvanized steel adapter.

Now, the pump keeps switching on and off rapidly at the end of its cycle. I turned it off.

Since nothing has changed at all on the circuit except the hose and the fact that now that hose is going into a storage tank (drought around here),

I think that when I unscrewed the old and quite rusty galv. fitting, some piece of debris has fallen inside the pump. Seems like the only possible explanation?

How can I clean it out, the manual indicates a "nozzle clean-out plug" in the middle of the pump front housing, but unscrewing it just revealed a recess in the metal, with nothing behind it?
There are two of those "plugs" but there is nothing behind them at all?

One smaller plug on top that spewed water out when I unscrewed it. Screwed it back.

Should I open the pump up to clean the debris?


texts: Plumber wants to replace PRV valve into house at same time he is replacing hot water heater

texts:
We are replacing our 16 year old hot water heater that has not be running the last day or so.  The plumber tested the water pressure of the tank at 90 PSI.  He said that is too high.  We had a PRV valve installed a couple of years ago where the water comes into the house.  The plumber is saying that it must be bad and it will need to be replaced with the water heater or it voids the warranty.
Is this true?


texts: Can I use compression connections on rigid "L" copper?

texts:
I'm running 1/2 inch "L" copper to plumb my bathroom. I was intending to use the same pipe for the risers and stubs, which will connect to shutoff valves with compression fittings.

I was going to use the standard Brasscraft valves available from HD. Someone told me that I can only use these types of valves with "M" copper.

Is this true? Should I buy some M pipes just for the stubs?


texts: Electric baseboard heaters stuck on with digital thermostat

texts:
I have two electric baseboard heaters in my house that are both controlled by a single digital programmable thermostat (King ESP-230). I believe each heater is 1500w so 3000w total. Twice now in the last year or so, it got really hot in my house when I realized the heaters weren't turning off at the specified temperature. The thermostat would be set around 65 degrees, and the house temperature would get up to around 75 degrees as shown on the thermostat itself.

What's weird is the red light that indicates the heaters are on, will be off. Here's a list of what I tried, the last item being the one that eventually fixed the problem:

Pushed the power switch on the thermostat itself to Off
Turned the temperature down to minimum
Shut off the heaters at the breaker, and turned back on
Pushed the Reset button on the thermostat, and set the day and time.

Only after setting the date and time after a reset did the heaters shut off. Does this just sound like I need to replace a thermostat that occasionally goes haywire, or could there be something wrong with the heater wiring that's causing the thermostat to mess up? Both times this happened, it was around 9pm on a Sunday evening, but I would imagine that's just a weird coincidence.


texts:
I recently asked for help because my dishwasher was tripping the circuit at random points in the cycle a few times last week. It was suggested to switch the breaker for another to see if it was a faulty breaker causing the issue since the appliance was new and well under 20amp power requirement: Faulty breaker? Older than the others?
So i finally started the process of switching the GFCI breakers today (after not using the dishwasher the rest of the week).  The neutral wire on the breaker in question is burned! It has even burned into the coil on the breaker, which the neutral was touching. The live wire is fine.

In the picture, i have reinserted the neutral in the correct way, under the metal plate. But when i took it out originally, it was attached between the screw and the plate - you can see this bit of the plate is burned too. All the other breakers seem to have the wire screwed in correctly. Seems pretty dangerous to have left this breaker badly installed since it seemed to have created a fire risk.
For now i have put it back with the breaker switched off. I assume this is safe since now there is no power running to the neutral wire.
So could it have been an incorrectly or loosely installed neutral wire causing the shorting? I guess in this case, I can cut back the burned neutral wire and replace the breaker with a new one. Or could it be something else - do i need an electrician to investigate?
Thanks


texts: Can I replace two Siemens QP type, handle tied, single pole 15 amp breakers with a tandem QT type in the same configuration?

texts:
Our Siemens electrical panel has two single pole 15 amp QP type breakers, with a handle tie that are together powering a mini-split HVAC system. One breaker has the white neutral line into it (wrapped in black tape as appears to be expected) and the other has black hot line.

Can I replace these with a tandem 15 amp QT type Siemens breaker (edit: specifically, model Q1515U)? Assuming I use a handle tie (model ECQTH2, which it looks like qualifies as a common trip for those breakers) and wire it with the same neutral line in one and hot line in the other.

Edit: fwiw, this panel does support tandems in every slot

Photo of the current breaker if it's helpful:


texts: labels U, V, and W. Which positive, negative and ground?

texts: I have a Chinese solar powered pool pump that arrived with leads to the motor with labels U, V, and W. Any idea with would be positive, negative and ground?


texts:
I have a small kitchen and the uppermost cabinet shelves are inaccessible without a stool.  Ready-made pull-down shelves are simply too expensive, so I'd like to build my own.

What kinds of hardware should I be looking for (how would I recognize it when searching catalogs or the web), how hard is it to install, and are there any tips for doing it better/more easily?


texts: How to re-insulate between roof and top floor?

texts: The space between my roof and the ceiling of my 2nd (top-most) floor is barely enough for me to crawl in. The roof tapers down to either end of the house from that, making the outer reaches inaccessible (by me, at least). How can I get insulation up in there, so that the outer perimeter of the roof is well insulated?


texts: How accurate does corner angle measurement on crown moulding need to be?

texts: How accurate does angle measurement on crown moulding corners actually have to be? What I am saying is say compare a manual angle finder that has 1 degree increments vs a typical digital one that would have tenths measurements (40.1,40.2,etc). It appears that digital one would be more accurate because more detailed measurements can be made,but I have seen where they have a plus or minus error of .3.  If you was to cut crown moulding using either of these tools would you notice much difference in the resulting corner made from these two pieces?


texts: The condo board just replaced my old wood door, with a sheet metal door. both having windows. I need to hang blinds and the kit does not have metal screws.  Will my blinds be secure enough if I drill wood screws into the metal door?


texts:
Hey guys,

Can anyone please help me how to estimate the power comsumption of an air conditioner. I know it is hard to get the exact number due to the different conditions that the AC might be running at but I am only looking for a rough estimation in KWh. The two tables “Electrical cooling input + the cooling capacity” are confusing me. I appreciate any help. Thanks.


texts:
I am entertaining the thought of installing one of the rain-type shower heads in a second floor bathroom.  I am trying to figure out if this is a good idea, due to the fact that the house is USDA Zone 5, with winters temps that can get below zero.  My thinking is that as long as I install the water line with a little bit of pitch, the water should drain out of the line through the shower head and not freeze in the pipe.

Is my thinking correct?

Are there any other "gotchas" I should be aware of?


texts: How do I attach a motion activated flood light to stucco?

texts:
I have some simple motion activated battery powered lights that I bought at Costco a while ago. I want to install them outside the house in the front and back. The device comes with a small plastic mount that should go with screws into the wall.

Is there a way to "glue" the device's plastic back to the wall, if the wall is stucco or wood panels? I don't need it to last there forever. If it will hold one year, I don't mind if it falls and I need to clean the surface and glue it again.


texts:
Below is a diagram that I drew to help me rewire a couple of switches. The left switch is a standard 3-way switch. The right switch Cooper 275W-BOX combination single pole and 3-way switch. The single is the top switch; the 3-way is the bottom switch. They share a single power source.

The single pole switch works. The 3-way PARTLY works. The right 3-way will only control the ceiling fan/light if the left 3-way is in the up position. What did I do wrong?

I had 2 existing, separately wired and powered single pole switches. One went to a light in a foyer and the other to the ceiling fan (the light and fan are wired together, so not separate switches). I disconnected and capped off the power wire that was powering the ceiling fan/light, and rerouted the wire to the other switch for the 3-way.

Since I was using existing wires coming up from the switches, I added some junction boxes and tied into those wires rather than pulling new wire. (The electrician stapled the original wiring to the studs everywhere he could. That coupled with insulation in the exterior walls made it very difficult for me to pull new wire.)

The original home wiring was 12-2, and the new wire I ran is 12-3. I did not use any of the ground wire.

If this wiring diagram is accurate, then I may have made a mistake in one of the junction boxes, and will need to figure out where I messed up. I hope it's something I can fix without getting back into the attic.


texts: Is it ok to pigtail different gauge transformer wires with a 15 amp circuit?

texts:
I have a 15 amp breaker that’s used for my foyer/family room. The builders double tapped that breaker to add a 16V-10VA transformer for the doorbell to the side of the service panel via a knockout. See pics below.
I plan to swap the existing transformer with a 16V-30VA transformer to power a Unifi G4 Doorbell along with my NuTone chime box. In the process, I’d like to correct the double tap.
My question is: Do I need to worry about the wire gauge of the transformer wires if I wanted to correct the double tap via a pigtail? The AWG of the transformer is 18. As far as I know, this is not up to for code for a 15 amp circuit. Is it ok if I proceed to pigtail with the mismatched wire gauges? I understand the current transformer is also a different gauge wire and double tapped which seems to work fine, but I’d like to correct it.
My other question is: Instead of a pigtail, if I were to add another single pole 15 amp breaker to correct the double tap, would I need to worry about the wire gauge of the transformer as long as the doorbell is the only thing on that breaker?
Finally, I know it’s “common practice” to double tap for doorbell transformers, so how bad is it really if I didn’t fix the double tap?
I’m not so concerned about being perfectly up to code. Instead, I’m looking for something that is safe and reliable.
Thanks!


texts: I have recently finished staining some wood 2x4s but I accidentally put too much stain on the wood. It dripped down to the other sides of the boards and it now looks sloppy and tacky.  We considered re-sanding the wood and starting over or just going over the stain again to try to even it out.  Will re-staining it work?  I don't think it will and I feel like it would be a waste of time.  Any help?  I am an amateur and don't know a lot about this.


texts: How to wire in gas boiler zone valves with out a zvc

texts: Does anyone have a basic wiring schematic for wiring up 3 zone valves without a zone valve controller? They are honeywell zone valves. The boiler is brand new and everything is prewired.  It just needs the zone valves added in and 120v power. The boiler is a weil mclain gas boiler


texts: I have a lot of rocks around my house. Generally, I drill holes with a rotary hammer and then use wedges and feathers to split them. There are some that are rotten, however, and the wedge and feathers just blow out. They are massive, and breaking then with a jackhammer would take a long time. Is there another option? I think that if I could saw them or something, it would be easier.


texts:
My furnace is Armstrong Air, A97USMV, today when turn on, the induce fan keep running but not ignition, then stopped with error code E228 (Unable to perform successful pressure switch calibration).

But I don't know where is the "pressure switch", is it clogged?


texts: Is there a more durable way to catch washing machine lint?

texts:
Our washing machine drains to a utility sink, which was regularly clogging with lint until I started keeping a nylon stocking around the hose outlet. That works fine, but after a month or two the stocking is so clogged with slimy lint that I have to invert it and scrape the lint off. Or it just tears altogether.

It seems wasteful to go through nylons like this, but all of the washing machine lint traps I see for sale online appear to be similarly disposable. Is there a way to catch lint coming out of the drain hose that doesn't involve swapping out disposable filters/nylons?

Is there something I can build that will be more straightforward to clean the lint paste scum off of?


texts: Bathroom sink faucet handle is tight causing it to work off the nut holding to sink. Can the handle be fixed?

texts:
You can see in the picture a faucet handle ( cold ) for a bathroom sink.  The handle/lever on top is very tight to turn, so when you move it it forces the base, which caused to work off the nut under the sink.
Instead of replaceing the entire fixture, can this type of handle be taken apart and repaired?  I see no set screws, only what is in the picture.
I appreciate your help.


texts: By manually impacting and cooling drill bit in water may one slowly drill concrete and bricks without impact function?

texts:
In theory, drilling a hole through concrete, bricks, and ceramic tiles needs a large power impact drill with concrete or ceramic tile bit. I googled, impact prevents drill bits head from wearing out due to high temperature. Since the problem is wearing out due to high temperature, can I use a brick or ceramic tile bit at a regular hand driller without impact function, to drill slowly and manually and repeatedly cool it by like putting it in water?
Further more, can I manually impact? Like knock a hole with bit while drilling? Will this damage motor or bearing?


texts: How to frame a floor in an unfinished crawl space?

texts:
I've got a "crawl space" (really an unfinished space) under the main floor in a 2-story-with-basement house.  I'd like to build essentially a deck frame and cover it in 3/4" plywood so that we can more easily use it as a storage area.

Picture of the space:

I've been planning on attaching a band joist to the concrete foundation on the right side, and additional band joists attached to the support posts on the other side (left side of the picture).  I'd then run floor joists between them (approx. 7.5' in length) supported by joist hangers.

Is attaching to the support posts a bad idea?  Not being a structural engineer, I worry about the additional load, and the potential for weakening those posts by attaching the band joists with lag bolts.  Should I be worried, or is there a better way to support that side of the floor that doesn't involve digging down and pouring concrete footings?


texts: Wiring stapled across bottom of beams? Can a running board be attached and the wires secured to the running board?

texts:
What's the best way to have these wires to code? Can a running board be used like in the picture?

Thanks,

John


texts: Old extractor fan hole leaking water into new kitchen

texts:
We had a new kitchen fitted last year, including a new extractor fan above the gas hob. When the previous extractor was removed it revealed the drilled hole and pipe which although lined up perfectly with the old fan, unfortunately did not line up with the new one so we simply covered it with the new one and didn't bother using a hole to extract the steam and heat, but used the old hole to feed a power supply from the garage.

There have been no problems for a year however in the last few weeks we have had a lot of wind and rain and suddenly we are noticing water dripping down the back of the glass splash back which sits beneath the extractor fan.

I have removed the splash back, and the extractor fan itself, and the old pipe was damp and had water sat in it, I'm assuming when the wind blows in the right direction the fans on the outside wall are opening and water is coming in and flowing down the pipe and into the kitchen.

Baring in mind there is now a power cable running down the redundant pipe to power the light in the new extractor fan, what should I do about this water issue.

I have a can of expanding foam that I was considering although I'm not sure I want to use this with the cable sat there.


texts: Why did my desk lamp flicker after being turned off for a while?

texts:
Once when I turned off the desk lamp and went to sleep, it suddently started to flicker drastically and would not stop. So I could only get up and turn off the switch of the plug, the flickering stopped immediately. This has never happened before.

I tried to recreate the same thing in the next morning, but did not manage to.

Does anyone know what might have caused this?

I am not sure what kind of lightbulb does my lamp has (it was from previous tenant), it might be energy-saving lightbulb.

Pictures of my lamp:

When it is switched on:

Profile when it is switched on:


texts: Can white pine be stained to match yellow pine that has been sanded and sealed?

texts:
We live in a log home that has yellow pine on the interior which has been sanded and sealed. After many years, it is now a beautiful warm honey color. We just replaced all the windows. They are aluminum clad outside but the interior is white pine and is supposed to be stained to match. However, all of the stain samples they have shown us look terrible-- they are either way too brown or way too red. We were told that it cannot be matched. Apparently, the contractor for the staining had Home Depot and Sherwin Williams try to match.

Can we match the new windows to the existing wood in our house, and if so, how?


texts: What fittings can I use to re-route my copper DWV pipe?

texts:
I need to change the direction 90 degrees and then transition from 1-1/4" copper to ABS. This is a dry vent that I am trying to reroute.
How can I reroute the vent as shown in this picture? It will go between the 3" soil stack and that vent that has some white drywall spots on it. (The line is drawn in front of it but it'll go behind.)
All the horizontal wood you see in the picture under the joists is gone--that was the framing for the wall that was hiding these pipes. I removed that to make room for this pipe's new route. I need to stay on copper till I pass through that narrow space, after that I will switch to ABS.
So it will be the original vertical pipe, then a flexible elbow, then a short horizontal copper run and then the flex connector you posted below and then ABS.

Here is the challenge, top view of a horizontal cross cut at the bottom of the joist level.The pipe will have to go along the long thin arrow in the sketch toward the wall


texts:
I have a concrete driveway in mediocre condition (square slabs that are of varying conditions--some small cracks) that is on the side of the house which is narrow enough that it is not very functional as a driveway except if you're driving a compact car and a small person. Not much use really as it's a real pain to back out of and unload from. I'm trying to figure out what to do with this unused space.

My idea is to create a potty area for my dogs so that the small lawn in the back yard is kept poop-free. They would go there first out the side driveway door and then be let into the yard to play.

Is it safe to just put a lot of pine mulch down on the concrete next to my house? I would build an extra fence there to keep them in--perhaps by building some tall wood planters that would look nice from the main road. I would rather not tear up the concrete as I could just clean it all out if we were to sell. It would be more "valuable" as a driveway. We're planning on living here another couple years but not forever.

Any ideas? Pros, cons?
Thank you!!


texts:
Here in South Africa we are experiencing frequent power blackouts, as I work from home on a small property (generators not an option) this is rather disruptive to my work as a programmer. So bearing this and the rapidly rising electricity prices in mind I need to find a solution.

I've searched already and found very similar questions, but most of them are centered on e.g. the US and give advice that won't work for here.
A few key differences.

1) There are no rebates here for installing solar

2) There is no 'grid tie' allowed - that is feeding back into the grid is not only not paid for but is illegal.

3) The blackouts - we experience and probably will for the next few years 'rolling blackouts' of 2 - 4 hours at various time intervals - almost always during daylight hours - due to power shortages.

Also solar and especially batteries are very expensive here and I definitely can't afford a complete off grid system up front, and would probably want to buy any system I do get in pieces.

So here are my needs in order of priority:

1 - I need to get my critical systems for work: computers/routers etc. onto battery power with enough juice to last at least 2 hours ASAP the solar portion can be added on later.

2 - I would like to power at least that part of the system with solar, this will help offset my power costs and also increase the length of power outage I can go through should things get worse.

3 - I would like to be able to use any excess power to offset the costs of the rest of my household items, and possibly add more solar in future to cover more of it, but only want to generate around 80% as any excess generation would go to waste (can't feed back into grid) - and I don't want to waste money on batteries I don't need.

Below is roughly what I think a system that best fits my situation is like.

So a few questions:

1- Any recommendations on where you would change/improve/modify this system to get better value for money, improve safety, improve efficiency or otherwise improve on it somehow?

2 - How to stop the feedback into grid?

3 - What can I use for the 'splitter' portion to ensure that power goes first to the critical system and that only excess goes to the non critical stuff?

4 - At the 'combine' portion, how do I ensure that the non-grid power is favoured first before the grid power (when both are available)

5 - How can I ensure that charge controller only takes from the AC if batteries are below a certain level, do some charge controllers already have this feature or do I need an other component for that?

6 - Given that routers, computers etc. all run DC internally would it be worthwhile looking at having them all draw directly from the battery to avoid the cost and efficiency loss of the inverter - or is it not worth the hassle?


texts: What is this strange strike plate and why does it move?

texts:
My house was originally built so it could be easily adapted for people with disabilities. For example, there is wiring in the house to support the installation of a lift and the landings are wider than usual.
I'm not sure if this is part of the adaptations but the door latches don't close onto regular strike plates. Instead, they close onto these curious moving strike "plates". These strike units comprise a thin metal box which contains a rotating piece of metal that moves up when a door closes on it and then falls back down when the door is closed. The metal box is then affixed to into a recessed metal bracket in the door frame. They have the letters "CBuk" stamped on them which yielded nothing useful on a search.
These close slightly more easily than regular latches but otherwise create redundancy in the latch mechanism. The doors also have concealed spring-loaded door closers built-in.
A couple of these are now not working properly but I'm not sure whether to try to replace them with something more conventional or try and fix them or if there's even a good reason for them being there.


texts: Are the cold and hot water circuits typically isolated in residential plumbing?

texts: I have a shutoff valve on the cold side of the water heater inlet.  I also have a water main shutoff valve coming from my well.  Are the cold and hot water lines in the house independent of each other and can I leave the main water valve open and just shut off the valve on the inlet side of the tank, therefore allowing me to drain the tank while still having water to the cold side of the house?


texts: Hook up propane fire pit to house hook up

texts:
I have a valve on the supply line from a 250 gallon propane tank. I bought a propane fire pit/heater and I’m not sure how to connect the two. The fire pit is set up to screw on a portable propane tank and I am not sure how to connect my fire pit/heater to the supply line valve.
I have enclosed pictures of both the hook up, and the hose coming from the heater.
Can someone advise me on what adapter i need and how to make the connection.


texts: Recently my son's friends played a prank on our house. Specifically they dumped bags of sand on our basketball court in the backyard so that they could pretend to have a beach party. I am not sure how I will remove the sand now though, I was wondering if anyone could help me with this strange problem?


texts:
I'm not a flooring guy so I'm asking a question that'll sound silly to pros.

I'm thinking of having 3" solid maple flooring installed. The contractor said 3" flooring needs to be glued AND nailed to the OSB. Even more, all t&g plank joints need to be glued.

I'm not a flooring guy,but I've seen many solid hardwood floors installed on job sites. I've never seen all joints glued or 3" plank glued and nailed to OSB.

Does this sound correct ? Is maple flooring different than oak and hickory flooring that it needs to be glued and nailed ?

I live in colorado where humidity is low and temperature swings are high.

cheers


texts: 2-Pole 40 amp GFCI replacement for electric range tripping

texts:
I am located in MA.

Do I need to have a GFCI for an electric 4 wire range?
When I replaced the current 2-pole 40 amp circuit breaker with a 2-Pole 40 amp GFCI replacement for electric range the circuit trips and does not turn on. I have confirmed that it's wired correctly and have not been able to figure out why it's tripping. The ground and neutral are connected properly.
The range is 4 wire.

This one is resolved!
Had to cut the "jumper" between ground and neutral.


texts:
I have a used 3 Phase motor that can either run in 220V or 440V with 3 Phase power.

I looked at the wiring and there's three sets of wires, each wire has a label W6, U6, V6, etc...

There's a diagram on the inside of the wire casing but it looks like some sort of puzzle from Jonathan Blow The Witness

I was hoping that someone here can help me understand what this image means.


texts: Receptacle upstream from GFCI with an issue causing GFCI to trip?

texts:
I'm not sure what to do next, and I'm fairly inexperienced with troubleshooting home electrical issues. My investigation started with the GFCI receptacle on the kitchen counter receptacles tripping and not resetting. I replaced all the load receptacles to make sure wiring was good. I replaced and double checked the GFCI receptacle. Still tripping, even when the load was not even connected to the GFCI receptacle.
I eventually looked upstream from the GFCI and discovered that the receptacle just upstream from the GFCI was dead. I disconnected the receptacle to test the incoming voltage from the breaker. When I test the incoming line hot-to-ground I get a nice 123v, but when I test hot-to-neutral I get 109v. When I connect a receptacle to the line (not connecting the downstream load), the receptacle tester shows properly wired, but when I plug in a lamp to it, it flips to show "hot ground reversed". I've seen online that this really probably means "open neutral".
In posted two videos showing what I'm dealing with: https://photos.app.goo.gl/VGvCLDJdxsoww2sS9
So what next? Am I on to something? Does this mean that my neutral line is compromised somewhere in the walls and losing voltage? There are several wall receptacles upstream that are all still working fine. I appreciate any thoughts.
Seth


texts: Insulation board for my unfinish garage ceiling

texts:
I live in central Florida.  My single garage is concrete block, with unfinished ceiling, just rafters and a ridge vent with new shingles on the roof. Is there an inexpensive insulating sheet that I can tack up to the cross members (ceiling joists) so I can run a 8,000 btu portable a/c just to cool the inside air from 90deg. to 75?
I thought a 1/2 in foam board with foil side facing up to roof.  Will that be ok?  will it cause moisture to build up in what is then an attic space? Plain drywall has negligible R-value and is heavy to install.


texts: securing attic stairs to car port roof..or...?

texts:
is there a way to have attic stairs secured to edge of solid roof when access hole is in a tin roofed car port? No room in home so carport is only option..Of course, car port roof not strong enough to support any weight so wondering if stair assembly can be secured on one end only which would be to the more solid roof ( Mobile Home ) with hole cut in car port tin roof.. Clear as mud, I know..sorry..
Mike W


texts: How do I wire a GFCI/Switch with power entering at the light and only protect the receptacle?

texts: I would like to add a GFCI protected receptacle in a bathroom that only has a light switch. I purchased a Leviton GFSW1-STW. The power comes from the light. See second image (credit for image from www.do-it-yourself-help.com) I only need the receptacle GFCI protected. Is this possible. Thanks.


texts: How do you insulate your pipes to protect against freezing?

texts: So, my pipes froze in my house today, and it made me realize that I should better insulate them for the rare days that it gets in the teens here... What should I do to insulate them?


texts: recessed can lighting auto off and outlet heating

texts:
... 1 of the 2 can lights automatically turned off, I replaced the bulb and it repeated the auto turn of and on... can I buy a tester to help pin-point if the fixture is going bad ?
... noticed today one of the outlets we use in the same room where our recessed lights are, the outlet plug where we have the in Christmas lights plugged into for our Christmas tree is hot and switches off automatically ... Is the outlet going bad ?

I wonder if the 2 light recessed fixtures are connected to the outlet? is there a way to find out?  I have a outlet tester that only tells if the outlet is grounded.


texts: What causes tub drain to gurgle when toilet flushed?

texts:
Recently, the drain in my second floor tub makes a gurgling sound when I flush the toilet, which is located right next to the tub.  They are obviously on the same drain line. I know that there is a vent line going up from the bathroom through the attic, but I am not sure of the exact configuration.

In all other respects, both toilet and tub seem to drain normally.

What could be causing the gurgling?


texts: How can I prevent water from beading on roof drain channel?

texts:
I have a flat-roof above my flat, and have located the source of a leak which has been dripping for years.

I have bought some roof sealer (Roof Trade) and painted it over the channel where the leak originates from.

This has stopped the water coming through, but the water now travels down the channel in streams, and mini puddles (beads) are forming. I know these will eventually evaporate, but with the original surface, the water wouldn't 'bead' and would just spread out over the surface of the material.

Is there another product that I could apply to this to make it less smooth?? I was thinking of mixing sand into the sealant, but I'm just really guessing.

Or is it not a problem that the water is forming beads?


texts: How can I  repair scratches on a coated stainless steel surface?

texts: I have a coated stainless steel refrigerator that unfortunately was scratched. Every tip I've found for removing scratches says the coated ones cannot be fixed once scratched. Any suggestions?


texts: Suggestions for a timer for a shop heater

texts: I have a shop heater - 20A, 240V, 4000W - and need to put a timer in the circuit. Any suggestions?


texts: Are compression fitting deamed water proof

texts: Are compression fittings on 2 inch conduit for the meter socket and weather head installation deamed waterproof?


texts: Is 12 gauge electrical cable ever wrapped in a white sheath?

texts:
I am trying to add a new outlet by branching off an existing one (for my mounted tv).

The cable that goes into the box contains one white cable and one black cable that has an extra red wire (as part of this box is on a switch).

I am comparing the new 14 gauge wiring with the existing wiring I have in the box and it seems smaller (somewhat). The housing on the wiring is white which is why I was under the impression that it was 14 gauge.

In this picture below the wire, i am holding is the new wire I just purchased. Where the solo white wire is the existing electrical outlet wire.

Am I just being paranoid / is it just the wire housing that makes it seem bigger?


texts: Trying to identify the names of ikea hardware

texts: This piece is #124401 they sent me 1, I need 2 and feel it would be faster to just go out and get one myself but I can’t find the name. Any thoughts?


texts: What's the best kind of caulk that doesn't dry out or become tacky enough to gather dirt?

texts:
I've used various caulks but have never found the magical one that neither dries out nor becomes sticky and tacky enough to attract dirt and dust. I know this stuff exists because all the caulked joints at a friend's house have this stuff, and it's amazing. It never dries out, but isn't tacky or sticky, so it isn't a dirt magnet. It's glassy smooth, yet pliable.

Anyone have an idea what this stuff is?


texts:
Our soil/landscaping grade is between about 4" and 8" above the foundation.  I've read and been told that this is a problem.  I believe the soil should be ~4" below the foundation line.  We have a hundred year-old house with a brick foundation.

Fixing it by uniformly lowering the soil line will likely be very costly, as we have a lot of landscaping planted around the house.  Furthermore, on one side of the house, if we lower the grade 12", we will almost certainly go below the level of our neighbor's house.

I have several questions:

How significant of a problem is having the grade above the foundation line?
Are there reliable technological solutions that would prevent us from digging up and replanting all of our trees and shrubs surrounding the house?
What kind of professionals do I need to consult to get this done properly?


texts:
I'm running some wiring and came upon this.  One-story 1952-ish house.  Joist is 2x10.  Pics are before and after removal of some "support" piece.  Looking up at the basement laundry room ceiling.

It's just a piece of wooden crate (marked "ACID RESISTING ENAMEL") that's warped and poorly fastened with three nails.  It ends right at the left side of the picture.

Do I even need this?  Should I replace it with something that more fully fills the area?

The next joist over has the same holes for cables and isn't reinforced.  I do plan to put another 1/2" hole through here for another electrical cable.

Six feet to the left the joist sits on the outer cinder block wall of the house.  Six feet to the right the joist sits on an interior cinder block wall.


texts: What is the name of this plumbing fitting?

texts:
Recently I've bough a domestic reverse osmosis system and it got following bit used to feed the water:

It's g1/2 pipe with a small hole (12mm) in it.

I'd like to use it between brass water pipe and washing machine (I am renting so I can't alter existing plumbings), but they are 3/4 thread.

Can someone tell what's the name of this piece? Otherwise it's really hard to find something similar on web.

Thanks


texts: I am about to replace a load bearing wall in unfinished basement.  There is flexible duct attached to plenum that I need to temporarily move out in order to put the beams in.  Do i just need to cut the tie and pull it off the collar and then re-install and re-tie it back once I get the beams in place?


texts: What decibel range would be considered a "quiet" range hood?

texts: I would like to buy a quiet range hood. Can someone please tell me how many decibels I should look for?


texts: Increasing subfloor thickness under new shower pan

texts:
I ripped my old shower down to the studs and joists. The studs were rotten, the subfloor was rotten, and the top of the joists (in some places) were weak and rotten.

I plan on replacing some studs and sistering others. Joists I'll likely epoxy and sister before installing new subfloor. I'll be pouring a new concrete shower pan. The issue is that the previous subfloor was 1/2" ply over joists 17 1/2" OC - by my research, not enough support.

First, am I correct in determining 1/2" as not enough support ?

Second, since the surrounding framing and drain pipe are in place assuming a 1/2" subfloor, is my only recourse going to be to cut the base plates, take a 1/4" off the wall studs and extend the drain pipe ?


texts: Could mice be escaping traps because the traps are being reused?

texts:
We've caught 6 or so mice using the classic snap traps. Being frugal, we tried washing and re-using the traps. We're getting mixed results.

The mice are clearly nibbling the food (peanut butter, cheese) and escaping the traps. The only thing we can identify that is different is trap re-use. Or is there something else going on?

Note: We are and will remain a no-cats home.


texts: Help me identify my rough in plumbing pipes

texts:
I'm wondering if anyone can help me id some rough plumbing. This is a basement bathroom rough in a 2009 New Hampshire house. I believe it was supposed to be roughed in for a toilet, single vanity and a shower. Judging by the distances from the wall and pipe sizes I'm guessing #1 is for a toilet (because it's 3 inch pipe and if the wall behind it was framed the center of the pipe would be 12 1/2 inches away), #4 is for a vanity and #5 is for a shower. #2 seems to be cover for a sewage pump. I have not found any roughed venting pipes in the ceiling so far.
What is the 3 inch pipe #3?
The sewage pump cover says Zoeller 17-0276. Does it only fit Zoeller pumps or are these universal fit?
Thank you in advance for looking at my question.
**Edit 1
I did some homework and snaked the pipes except for #5 which i didnt want to cut as the cap is glued on and it's so short. It seems they're all connected (now drawn in red on the schematic) and going to the sewage pump pit. I can see #1 is a toilet rough in after taking the silver wrap off.


texts: Possible for polyiso to outgas CFCs through aluminum vapor barrier?

texts:
If I use polyiso foam board insulation in my sauna and completely cover it with aluminum vapor barrier / tape, creating a seal, will it outgas dangerous CFCs into my sauna at high temperatures?

What about covering the face of the foam board insulation with rockwool?  Would that help?


texts: Attaching closet door divider to laminate

texts: Installers of our laminate floors (over concrete) told us the could not screw into the laminate to anchor the divider without splitting it.  The glue they used has already come loose as well as the wood glue we tried. Any suggestions?


texts: What is the best method for short-term repair of composite wood siding?

texts:
My vertical composite siding is starting to pillow outwards on the bottoms.  See LP siding.

How can I seal it for a few years until I replace it with vinyl siding?

Here is a photo from the web.


texts: Is there a difference between the two conductors in 120VAC wiring?

texts:
With DC wiring, there is an obvious, positive 'hot' wire and negative/ground wire. In AC wiring is there still such a concept as a single 'hot' wire?

If yes, why is this since either wire will be at +/- 120VAC?

If there is only one 'hot' wire, then why is there an additional ground wire, if the neutral wire already is tied to ground?


texts: What should I keep in mind when building my house myself?

texts:
I inherited a piece of land and want to build a house on it. Nothing fancy: one floor, 2-3 rooms.

Since I don't really have the money :D to build it "in one go", I'm going to build it over a longer period of time, bit by bit.

Also, I want to build it myself as much as I can, in weekends, vacations etc.

So my question is: What do you need to know to build yourself a house. What is it that you can do and what you should let experts handle?


texts: Do polyphosphates reduce scale in refrigerator ice makers?

texts:
I am considering switching to a polyphosphate-containing water filter for my refrigerator ice maker/water dispenser. Currently, I use softened water to prevent calcium build-up in the ice maker/refrigerator, but would rather not in order to reduce my sodium intake.

So, would polyphosphates greatly reduce the calcium buildup in my ice maker? (I'm worried about the low temperatures affecting their effectiveness). Or does it work only in hot water boilers? Should I use some other chemical based on my water chemistry? Or is it junk science?

My water pH is 7.4-7.7, with about 400 ppm of CaCo3 (in West Lafayette, IN).


texts: Insulate back of high and low voltage gang boxes in attic

texts:
We just finished building a home, and I prewired an equipment closet upstairs for handling all of my networking, home theater and whole home audio equipment. It looks like this:

All the single and double gang boxes are standard open-backed low voltage gang boxes, and the triple gang is a normal Carlon high voltage box. The back of this wall is attic which makes getting to things to wire them up a breeze, but also means that it's getting incredibly hot in the closet.

There's insulation on the walls that I cut away a little bit to pass wires through, and I've stuffed insulation in the low voltage holes where possible.

Even with the insulation, the outlet covers themselves are probably about 90-95 degrees on a hot day (110 or so in the attic). What are my options for insulating the low voltage brackets? Cramming insulation in there seems to be doing very little.

I know on the Carlon triple gang I can use expanding foam, but I'm a little hesitant to do that until I'm absolutely positive I won't need to make any adjustments to the speaker cable. Do I have any slightly less permanent options there that will still improve insulation?


texts:
I found this growth on several of my back windows.

I'm not sure if it is mold or moss or something else entirely.  Hoping someone could help me identify it and how to safely remove it.  Thanks.


texts: 14/3 Wire + Double Pole Breaker, Two 120v Circuits?

texts:
I would appreciate any help or guidance. I'm in Canada and renovating what used to be the laundry room in my older house. I had originally planned on adding an outlet from one of the existing receptacles as part of the renovations. At the panel, a double pole 15 amp breaker with 14/3 wire is clearly labeled and dedicated to the room in question. The panel was upgraded within the last 30 years or so by a professional electrician and there is modern wire running from all breakers.

The 14/3 from the panel ends at the first receptacle in the room, where it runs into the outlet box along with 14/2 wire from a light switch. The red hot wire from the 14/3 is connected directly to the receptacle line, and the black is pigtailed together with black from the 14/2 wire and doesn't connect to this receptacle at all. The white neutrals are pigtailed together, and then feed into the appropriate line on the receptacle. This receptacle was used for a washing machine when the wiring was upgraded, and this is the only reason I can think of why maybe a separate hot wire was reserved for use here?

There are 3 other receptacles currently in this room as well, they are all wired as follows: They each have two separate runs of older NMD-3 12/2 wire that come down from the ceiling (currently hidden by drywall) and run parallel down stud bay into each outlet box. The hots and neutrals are pigtailed together, then connect to the lines on the receptacle. There are no wires connected to the load side of any of the plugs.

I'm familiar with running 12/2 and 14/2 to outlets and thought I had a basic understanding of typical wiring but what I've encountered here has me confused and intrigued. My first thought is that this was a type of multiwire branch circuit but it doesn't seem to fit with what I've read on those either. Is the double pole breaker being used to serve the room lights+plugs and also the washer plug as 2 separate 120v circuits? Why would 14/3 and a double breaker be used instead of just 14/2 and single pole breakers? Why the two runs of 12/2 into the other receptacles? Can I safely use 14/2 to add another outlet from the unused load side of the first plug that previously served the washer?

Thanks again for any help or clarification you can provide.


texts: What protection is needed to access the crawlspace under the house?

texts:
We have a crawlspace about 2 feet tall under the house. (Scary!) Looks like it has a black plastic barrier on the ground (which I believe is just dirt).

How should one dress to crawl under there, and what precautions are necessary. I'm talking about coastal North Carolina in the spring.

Is a pair of jeans and a shirt good enough or is an environmental suit of some sort necessary? I don't see bugs or anything else, but there certainly could be spiders or other things that sting, and I know the area has fire ants, although they may not be under there. But, I'd hate to disturb them. What is standard practice?


texts: Can I use silicone "window & door" caulk between a kitchen counter and backsplash?

texts:
I need to caulk my granite counter-top and ceramic tile back-splash. The big box store only has "kitchen" caulk in white, clear and almond. These colors are not going to work for me, I really want to use gray but the store only has gray silicone caulk that is labeled for "windows, doors, and basements" (GE Silicone II Caulk).

Can I use this in my kitchen?

It does not look that different from the same "GE Silicone II" caulk meant for kitchens and bath.  Should I look for a gray caulk that is labeled for use in the kitchen?


texts: Can I replace the engineer's I-Beam recommendation with a different one?

texts:
I'm removing a load bearing wall and the structural engineer recommended a W8x15 steel I-beam.  It would save me a lot of effort if I could use a 6" beam instead.  So I'm trying to calculate the deflection of the W8x15 beam and then find a W6x?? beam with similar deflection.

I've found the specs for various wide flange beams here, but I can't find a max deflection equation that uses the elastic section modulus provided in the specs.

So, can someone point me in the right direction?


texts: Will a tarp over the deck allow me to paint the deck during a Seattle winter?

texts:
I spent a few weekends in September stripping the paint from my deck. It's now stripped to the wood. Due to some unforeseen timing issues, I wasn't able to get the new paint down before fall arrived. I'm in Seattle, so getting a full 24 hours of non-rain is tough, let alone a couple of days to let the wood properly dry. Humidity is generally in the 60-90 range.

I have some tarps I could put over the deck to keep it dry for a few weeks. My question is: will the tarp approach work? Should I just wait for spring? Any other ideas?

-- edit --

The paint is Olympic Rescue It. The min temp is 50, but I am more concerned with the wood. How dry does it need to be? If there is any moisture on the wood, will it shorten the paint's life?


texts: Why does the voltage drop when my office circuit (115V) is under load?

texts:
3 circuits (red, blue, black, neutral white; approx. 100ft in metal conduit [ed: alongside 2 other similar 4-conductor MWBC]) feeding several outlets in a couple rooms.  Voltage tests 110V(ish) on all three, neutral-to-earth voltage is around 9V.  Plug tester says everything's fine.  (Y'know, that consumer plug with 2 yellow LEDs & one red LED.)

[ed: light industrial +office location, all work professionally done ~10 years ago, main is 250A 480V/3  but this is off a 208/120 3 wye transformer, 12AWG solid copper wires, 20A breakers, boring office loads (few computers, router, 802.11 switch, a small printer, alarm, a space heater, micro-fridge)]

However, I plug something in, and get no juice.  It's a verrrry localized brownout.  Other circuits on the panel are fine.  Does this sound like something obvious?

The first symptom we had was a short between blue and neutral, giving 210V on red and black outlets.  (Yikes.)  After dis- & re-assembling all the outlets and conduit junctions, the short disappeared, but (as above) the circuits are still not usable.

This seems like the most appropriate forum, but if this question goes somewhere else please let me know.

Thanks!


texts: The machine turns on and trying to light and then shuts down does this about three times then stops , starts again but doesn’t seem like anything lights up who to call ? What kind of problem ?


texts: Should I use a subfloor for a finished basement's floor?

texts:
We are refinishing our basement and have not yet decided what to do for the floors.  Part of the basement will be tile, and we are all set.  However, the rec room side is going to be carpet.  The basement is dry, and we have never had any water or moisture issues.

Some research has said to simply lay carpet like normal, with a thinker pad on the concrete.  While OK, I am worried a little about the coldness, a vapor barrier, and the comfort level (too hard on concrete).  One carpet guys said they make special pads that are vapor or moisture proof and will not have mold issues and are made for concrete floors.

Other people has said to lay .5"-1" foam board down, and then install plywood on top of that.  That would help to insulate, make it feel like a normal floor, and provide a good moisture barrier)  But this would cost more in labor and materials, and cut into the height of the room (it is 7'8").  And although we have not had water issues, heaven forbid if we did, this would be a major pain to rip it out.

What has everyone else done?  Any recommendations?


texts: How do I connect a light before a 3way, followed by a 3way, then a light?

texts: I now have power to 3way A, connected to 3way B, to a light. I want to add a light before 3way A.  Power comes to a junction box, then to 3way A.  A is at the bottom of a stairs and B is at the top.


texts: How do I secure my house against intruders?

texts:
What are some suggestions for securing your house from an intruder? Right now we have a GE Simon XT alarm system, but it doesn't cover breaking a window. We put some PVC pipes in the tracks of the lower floor windows as well. What other suggestions do you have?

EDIT: I also would like to know what structural changes I should be looking at. A simple one is to ensure that the deadbolt goes into a stud (they don't always!). Any other suggestions like this would be great.


texts: Is it a good idea to spraypaint my axe head?

texts: I saw a YouTube video where someone restores an old axe. After removing the rust and piths, he spray paints the head with black primer. Is this advisable? While it protects the head from water and sap, don't I lose the ability to clean the axe head with paint thinner? Also, won't the oils I apply to the axe head damage the paint?


texts: using a relay to swich between main and solar power

texts:
I have both solar and mains voltage at my house and since the solar isn't enough to continuously power the house , we switch between it and mains when there is less sun.I was hoping to make an automated system to do this switching using a relay and a raspberry pi.

I understand that a solid state relay provides a fast switch,
Is this a realistic project ?
 Is a Solid State or Mechanical relay which would fit the requirements available?
If so what should I be looking for ?

Edit:
To make it more clear,I have two sources of power and I use a manual switch as shown below to switch between them

I want to use a relay instead of the change over switch and would like to know what kind of relay I should use.
(Indian 220V system)


texts: Do I need to seal the gap under shoe molding on new floor?

texts:
We are getting new hard wood flooring installed and I expect to be putting shoe molding around the edge of the flooring. I am expecting a half inch to one inch gap between the back of the molding and the wall underneath.
Am I supposed to fill the gap behind with caulk or spray foam or something? I am afraid if I don't, I will have a gap that will be a freeway for insects and mice. If so, what kind of caulk or foam?


texts: Dealing with nicotine stains in a Victorian property

texts:
I am just in the process of buying an old property, previously lived in by heavy smokers.

What is the best way to clean and prime walls to prevent nicotine stain recurrence in a solid brick Victorian property?

I am concerned that the normally recommended primers might impair the ability of the walls to  'breathe' and cause problems with damp.


texts: TriangleTube Smart 30 digital thermostat

texts: I have a TriangleTube Smart 30 indirect water heater which unfortunately only comes with an analog (red top blue dial) thermostat. I would really love to find a way to get a digital thermostat on it so I can set it to a certain temperature instead of "partially red". Anyone have the same experience or any ideas?


texts: The white spots are caused by pine sap is there a way I can remove all of them in one shot instead of on my hands and knees


texts: What bug is this? And how can I get rid of them?

texts:
I recently became an expat to a southeast Asian country and found that bugs are a fact of life here, this one particular breed has really brought out the heeby-jeebies in me. This little critter tends to come out around midnight, and they are crazy fast. They go from the floor to across my laptop keyboard (while I'm typing) in about 10 seconds. They tend to come in the directions of my wooden cabinets, and are always running at top speed. I find the infestation strange because we're on the 9th floor of a building, keep the flat pretty clean, and there's no obvious food source for them. I catch about a dozen of these a night just from within view, heaven knows how many more are lurking around the dark corners. One note - they look like lone rangers to me. I haven't seen a group of them scattering about when I open a cabinet or anything.

It appears to be somewhat seasonal - they became an issue as the temperature worked its way above 39c/95f.

My wife (who is local) says they aren't cockroaches, and when I looked online at local cockroach species, there are none that look the same. I also don't think it's a termite since it doesn't have claw-like head. Can anybody help me figure out what kind of bug this is and how to eradicate it from my home? Photo below:

Thanks,
Kyle


texts: Wiring Light Fixture with 2 Sockets into Junction Box with 2 White, 2 Black, and 1 Red Wire

texts:
I am installing a light fixture in the kitchen. How do I wire it?

The light fixture has:

2 light bulb sockets
2 black wires (one coming out of each socket)
2 white wires (one coming out of each socket)
A bare metal ground wire

My junction box in the roof has:

2 black wires
2 white wires
1 red wire
1 ground wire

I tried following wiring and it didn't work when I turned the switch on:

First black from fixture to first black from box
Second black from fixture to second black from box
First white from fixture to first white from box
Second white from fixture to second white from box
Ground from fixture to ground from box
Left red disconnected and covered it with cap.


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