texts:
We're considering altering an existing load bearing wall 10-12ft length
  ( possibly an existing header already above, and definite header below floor in basement with support columns ) in a 1967 rancher , truss roof system, with basement as stated . We want to turn the end support beams of the existing load bearing wall into support columns. We will obviously get a permit and involve a structural engineer to a degree , but want to know ;
if there is already an existing header, can you alter the existing load bearing wall support ends into columns, and can the existing header above just be re-enforced by said beams/columns in the correct load bearing areas without having to add another support header ? Weve looked all over the internet for days for this question and it is not answered anywhere we look .

Update

Again, that's if there is a support header above . We haven't found that out as of yet . We don't want to build another wall : we want to build support columns using the existing load bearing wall guts of that already bares the weight at the ends .

We're looking for cheaper alternatives rather than replacing a 10-12 foot beam and thought support columns at the precise load bearing areas could achieve an open concept load bearing wall image in house

Thanks everyone . And thank you Michael . Theyre plaster walls , truss system roof ; which we've read some truss system roofs built in the late 1960's may not need a middle load bearing walls, that's why we will most definitely need an engineer : but are just wondering if there is an existing header can you support it with columns in the correct load bearing areas if possible, and properly designated by an engineer ?


texts: How to reattach a tub overflow pipe that is offset from the tub

texts:
I recently discovered that the overflow drain that is supposed to be connected to the overflow outlet on my bathtub is...well, not. Taking off the cover of the overflow outlet, I see the pipe freestanding and disconnected, a couple of inches away from the hole.

This explains that strange waterfall sound I heard while taking a bath a few months ago, but more importantly I want to fix it now that I know about it. There is no access panel (which, since the whole bathroom was renovated by a big box store right before we bought it, is yet another item on the list of "You've Got To Be Kidding Me").

To complicate matters, the pipe is offset from the tub hole by about an inch. The drain pipe is sitting higher than the hole of the tub. This is probably why they didn't hook it up to begin with.

What I need is to fix this; reattach the drain pipe to the overflow hole in the tub. What I want is to fix this without cutting an access panel or basically any plumbing of any kind. Any ideas?


texts: Wire AC Condensor fan motor to three prong plug for shop fan

texts:
Here is the wiring schematic on the motor:

How would I wire these wires safely to a plug like this:


texts: Should I install a vapor barrier on the bottom of my garage ceiling?

texts:
I have a house that has a garage below the main floor. The house is built into a hill, and so the entry way, the basement, and the garage are all on the same level, and the entry way has a stair case that leads to the main floor which is above everything.

The house is very old (~1890s) and leaks hot air worse than a politician. It's so bad that when it's ~19F outside, the furnace can't keep up, even though the furnace is properly sized and in good repair.

Among the many things I want to do to this house to deal with the poor insulation and air leaks, I'd like to put an air barrier on the bottom of the garage ceiling to prevent air infiltrating through the garage into the first floor, which I have good evidence is significant.

The structure of the main floor/garage ceiling, from top to bottom:

Rugs
Hardwood floor
Floor joists (about 6 inches of room)
Lath and plaster (1 inches total)
2 inches XPS rigid foam, loosely attached via furring strips screwed to floor joists.

I was considering attaching plastic sheeting to the bottom of the rigid foam over the entire ceiling to seal it as much as possible.

I also am curious about injecting blown-in insulation in the joist space, but I don't want to worry about that until I create a worthy air seal.

One major concern I have is that this is a violation of proper vapor barrier/air barrier design - that I could get condensation on either side of the air barrier and cause mold.

So, is this a bad idea?

I should note the house is in Rochester, New York, so very cold. The house is not air-conditioned; only upstairs bedrooms are via through-window ACs.


texts: Thermo Pride OL5-85 oil furnace and Aprilaire 60 humidistat

texts:
I have a Thermopride OL5-85 furnace. I've recently added an Aprilaire 600 humidifier, which comes with the Aprilaire 60 humidistat. Wiring diagrams for both are attached below.

The humidistat is supposed to run when the furnace is running, and when the humidity is below the designated target (I am using it in Manual mode). It is not running, even in Test / Reset mode.

After trying numerous things I have traced the problem to the fact that there is no voltage between the W and C terminals, even when the furnace is running. Here's what I get when the furnace is OFF:

Voltage between W and C (furnace is OFF): 1-2V - as expected
Voltage between W and Rh (furnace is OFF): ~26V - as expected
Voltage between Rh and C (furnace is OFF): ~26V - as expected

As soon as I connect W and Rh, which I've done both by turning up the temp on the thermostat, and by manually connecting the two terminals with a length of wire, the furnace turns ON, and I get the following readings:

Voltage between W and C (furnace is ON): 1-2V - NOT as expected
Voltage between W and Rh (furnace is ON): ~0V - as expected (after all, these are bridged directly)
Voltage between Rh and C (furnace is ON): 1-2V - NOT as expected

Furnace seems to be running fine in every regard. I am completely stumped, because this is not only running counter to my understanding of HVAC wiring, it is running counter to my understanding of basic electricity. Help me, O DIY StackExchange, you are my last hope!

Furnace wiring:

Humidistat wiring


texts: So sistered floor joists need to touch the wall?

texts:
Improving an attic for live loads. Contractor sistered our 2x6s but due to the plaster ceiling, they weren't able to sister evenly. I realized this means the new sistered 2x6 beams aren't actually touching the walls they span between.

Do I need to go back and wedge something under so they're touching? Or are the nails sistering them together enough?


texts: I have an Frigidaire side by side refrigerator with a built in ice maker.  I was in the midst of moving and unable to hook up the water line for over a week.  My wife says it used to make a sound every once in a while but it no longer does so.  Does anyone know if I damaged it by not having a water line connected?


texts: What are some good downspout options for a brick house?

texts:
I need to replace the gutters and downspouts on my house, and I'd like to know the best approach.

The house is 100 year-old clay brick house. The old gutters were aluminum and used downspouts that sat on hooks embedded in the brick (with a series of notches on the back of the downspout), and were held against the house by pressure from the gutters at the top and being sleeved into pipes that run to the sanitary sewer main at the moment (we appear to be grandfathered into the system, but yes I know that's bad).

The gutters were pulled off and damaged by a snow storm, but most of the downspout parts are intact. One of the pipes that runs to the sewer is collapsed so we need to use a different system to remove the water from the base of the house at that corner.  I'd rather NOT put new holes in the brick if I don't have to, but all the local home improvement stores seem to see plastic gutter systems that use different mounts (brackets that wrap around the downspout to hold them against the house).

If I look around are there likely to be places that might have parts for aluminum gutters? Is trying to rebuild a system like we had the best idea or should I replace with something different?  If I did switch the gutters, is there a gutter system out there that might work with my old brackets so that I don't have to put new holes in the walls?


texts: Light fixture: 3 pairs of wires, two switches

texts: Upon changing a light fixture for my gf, light was only controlled by breaker, switches had no effect. There are three pairs of wires (one black, one white) entering the light fixture box. I removed all nuts b/c they were cracked and very old, and replaced with new ones (in hindsight...stupid). The wiring is very old with this stringy stuff wrapped around the core. Probable asbestos aside, on the fully functional old (but not pretty) light, light could be turned on/off at either switch. When new light was installed, I nutted off two sets and connected a third to the light. Realizing that switches weren't working, I nutted off the the pair I had been using (all three pairs now nutted) and tried to close the breaker and test for which pair was hot, but now the breaker keeps tripping. How can I fix this? Note, haven't touched any switches, and wiring is probably consistent with 50s/60s techniques.


texts: A/C split unit inverter leaking. What can I do?

texts:
For some unknown reason, my 12,000 BTU split unit inverter is leaking in two places. Here are the pictures of the leaks.

The A/C was thoroughly cleaned last week, and the contractor said that the A/C was in good condition. It's been leaking for a quite a while, and I thought that cleaning it would help. It didn't.

I haven't been able to contact the contractor, so I'm thinking of trying to fix it myself.

What can I do to find the source of this leak? One of the things that the contractor was supposed to do this week was replace the copper wire insulation. Could that be the issue? What else can I check?

The outdoor condenser is in the rooftop, which means that the tube runs downward toward the indoor unit.

Thanks.


texts:
Is this a correct installation of a whole house Surge Protector?

Note that it's not closest to the main lugs, will that matter?

I was unable to bring it closer to the main lugs since those had special breakers which I did not have and I did not want to mess with that wiring.

I have installed the Square D 80 whole house surge protector at the first available breaker that wasn't GFI. It's a brand new breaker rated at 30 A. I could not find a 20 A breaker at Lowe's so I opted for the next one up.

Should I have used a 20A?

Notice that one of the neutral wires has a slight bend to it and I've read to avoid drastic bends. Will that affect the surge protection?

Also, since it's not closest to the main lugs, will the breakers above the whole house surge protector still be protected or should I redo the whole panel?


texts: Which thermostat for both forced air and baseboard heating

texts: I recently purchased a Bosch 2 stage central a.c. with a heating inverter. I have baseboard heating and but have a large and opened family room so didn't want to run more pipes. The Bosch will work up to 5 degrees but living on long island temps sometimes get colder so I still have to use the baseboard heating. Any recommendations regarding a smart thermostat that will control both heating systems? I have the honeywell 9000 but I funny believe will control both. I appreciate any suggestions.


texts: Evaluating possible early breaker failures

texts:
I'm leasing a commercial space and I have concerns about the breakers and electrical space. All the lights in the space are switched by the breakers, so the breaker box gets visited at least twice a day. The breaker box is located indoors. To my knowledge, the breakers are not overloaded (e.g. 10A on a 20A breaker).  I have heard crackling noises from the breaker box, and have called the landlord to have it fixed. (The landlord is responsible for everything but the light bulbs).

One breaker was replaced and relocated. The faulty breaker had signs of lots of arcing at the contacts with the bus bar, and the contacts looked corroded. Replacing the breaker didn't eliminate the crackling sound, and the bus bar contact was corroded as well. The breaker was relocated to an open slot. I could still hear faint crackling, but the service person could not.

I will admit that the sound is faint, and I can practically only notice it with my ear 3-4 inches away from the breaker box, and I can't localize the sound to a specific breaker. I've noticed some intermittent minor flickering on the lights as well that let me identify the crackling breaker. I would like it to be fixed, but I'm concerned that I don't have enough sufficient evidence to convince people there is a problem.

I suppose this means that I have two questions:

Should I be worrying about these symptoms? (am I being paranoid?)

What evidence could I look for that is more obvious or conclusive than the subtle indicators that I have observed?

EDIT: Image of the breaker after repair. The replaced breaker was originally in the top-right slot. After it was replaced, it was then moved to the third from the bottom slot (marked "240V. Test").

Images of the replaced breaker. In normal light, the contacts are heavily oxidized (black). There were spark marks on the case in-line with the contacts, but they were wiped off.


texts: How to check which wire is switched live?

texts:
I just replaced an existing dimmer switch (with two dimmers). I noticed that the previous wiring used what I understood to be the wrong colour codes.

One dimmer had blue => C and brown => L1.
The other had black => C and red => L1.

The blue and black wires are not banded or otherwise marked.

My understanding was that brown (and previously red) were permanent live and should go into C, so for my new dimmer I swapped them around and the lights work the same.

I know that doesn't mean they're safe, so should I keep the original wiring or use the new one based on colour? Is there any way to know for sure which is the switched live?


texts: Are plywood dovetails a good solution to building something that needs to be dismantled?

texts:
Are hand cut, plywood dove tails feasible?
Assuming you can get "good" plywood, i.e. not the brittle splinter-fest I've seen around, is dovetailing feasible?
I'd like to avoid using glue for the corner joins as I'd like to be able to dismantle it to transport it.
If they are feasible, any recommendations on what specs to look for?  My assumptions having had a gander at the interwebs is:

Use thick plywood so there is enough surface area for the dovetail to hold.

Use some kind of backing board when cutting to minimise splintering at the edge of the cut (maybe cheaper plywood or MDF?)

This is an assumption, but a very fine toothed dove tail saw
This is the structure I am building (minis the horizontal supports, I know is won't hold up as is)

It will be used as a computer desk.


texts: Is moisture a concern with solid hardwood flooring over a crawl space?

texts:
I recently purchased around 600 sq feet of 3 1/4 inch solid hickory from Bruce, which I'm installing over a crawl space. I put down a 6 mil vapor barrier in the crawl space.

I'm measuring the moisture level of my plywood subfloor as the wood has been acclimating about a week. Most readings are right around ~13% with the overall range being 10-13% with some spots measuring as high as 14%. This is during the humid August summer in Kentucky.

The wood still has some time to acclimate. Readings for it at the moment are around 9-10%.

I'm wondering whether I'm in a safe position to install solid hardwood here. I'll be installing this with a #15 felt underlayment. If it matters the bedrooms have 2 1/4" red oak installed (might be original to the house) and those floors are in great condition.


texts: New circuit - Eaton Combined AFCI/GFCI Breaker Trips when any switch is thrown

texts:
OK, so I have spent the entire weekend upgrading the last remaining old circuit in my 1943 home. It is comprised of 5 switches for overhead fixtures (details below).
Before I changed this all out, all switches were ungrounded (2 conductor only) and were switch loops. What I did was remove every bit of the cloth wire and rewired all switches as a normal switch leg and not a switch loop.
I have the following:
3 switches that are powering a single light fixture. (Meaning, a 1 to 1 switch to fixture leg).
2 switches that are the dual type that are connected to a ceiling fan light combo. 1 switch for fan, 1 for the light.
From the panel, I have a line running to a J-Box that has a joint that provides the supply to 2 of the 5 switches directly and then another line that goes up into the attic to another J-Box that then provides the joints for the remaining 3 switches.
14/2 (except for the rooms where the ceiling fans are, where I am providing the switch leg with a 14/3 of course).
All switches have the common hot on one side and the fixture hot on the other. Neutrals are combined in the boxes and connected at the fixtures. Grounds are all bonded to the metal boxes and fixture boxes as well as connected together as required (except one that is in a plastic old work box due to size restraints).
Everything in the circuit is straightforward. I am super careful pulling wire and inspecting to ensure nothing is nicked. I am always pretty OCD about my electrical work and everything is connected with appropriate size wire nuts (though I do use push in connectors for my grounds in some cases, but never for hots or neutrals).
In the LC panel, I am using an Eaton AFCI/GFCI combined BRN115A1CS. 15a, single pole. I have never used one of these before (never used a GFCI nor an AFCI breaker to be perfectly honest, but figured now is as good a time as any to start).
I can turn the breaker on and it stays on. Tests appropriately. However, whenever I flip on ANY of these switches, it trips immediately. LED code is 5 blinks which is Ground Fault/ or Grounded Neutral.
"Current has found an alternative path to ground, or the neutral and ground are in contact downstream of the breaker"
I am baffled at this point since I surely don't think anything I wired would be in this state (seriously, I am VERY meticulous).
Now, here is the big question that may be the simple answer and shows my ignorance of requirements for GFCI breakers - to use a GFCI breaker, does the neutral and ground have to be on separate bus bars? Up until now, in my main (and since it is my main), I have bonded neutral and ground bus bars. This seems, though, that this would be upstream, correct?
Of course, I will start to go back through all of my switches and fixtures, but is there anything that I have stated that would indicate a problem right off the bat? Thanks!


texts: What type and size conductors and conduit should I use to feed a detached workshop?

texts:
I'm planning to install a 100 amp sub panel in a new detached workshop in my backyard. I will run power from my home main 200 amp service panel which I have a dedicated 120/240v double pole 100 amp breaker already set up. Consumers in my workshop will be

6X linear fluorescent T5 light fixtures 11 amps
2x exterior wall pack lights 10 amps
Garage door opener 15 amps
AC/DC stick welding 50 amps
Air comp. 20 amps
Table saw 15 amps
Shop fan 15 amps
Bench grinder 15 amps
misc small AC power tools.

I anticipate approx 55-65 amps will be the most continuous current at any given time. The cable run distance from the 200 amp main service panel to the sub panel is 185ft. 110ft will be under ground and 75ft will be run inside my home through the attic. I would like to make this pull all in one with no splices.

My questions are

What type and size wire is suitable and meets Electric Metro code to run inside my home and also bury 24" in conduit?
What size and type conduit (PVC or galvanize) should I used for under ground and what is the NEC code for conduit above and below ground.


texts: Any Way To Run A New 3" Pipe INSIDE An Existing 6" Pipe & Have The 3" Pipe In A Fixed Position Inside

texts: Is there any way to run a brand new 3" water line pipe through the inside of an existing 6" water line pipe. I want to make sure that the 3" pipe is not rattling around inside the 6" pipe. Any way to keep it in a fixed position as well?


texts: How can I paint concrete pavers with scenes?

texts: I was given some concrete pavers that have scenes molded in them. I would like to paint them so that the details in each block can be seen. One is of an eagle and another is the American Flag. How do I go about doing this?


texts:
I'm running a double circuit breaker from the house at 40amps with 8ga for both hots, the neutral and the ground out to my shed, which is roughly 20 feet.
I've got a sub box in the shed where I want to run a 20a circuit at 240 for occasional equipment, and separate 120v circuits for outlets and lights.
Since the neutral is unbroken and separate, what's the max 120v 20a circuits I can run safely only sharing the hot busses?  I wouldn't be using the 240 and 120 at the same time except for a couple chest freezers I will have out there, so too many tools won't be an issue.  Is 3 too much to ask?


texts: How to determine if a faucet is plastic or metal?

texts:
On the first picture below I am pretty sure the grip is made of plastic because it feels very light, when I lift it.

On the second I have no idea.

Question

How do I tell if the grip of a faucet is made of plastic or metal?

Are there destructive and non-destructive tests I can do?


texts: How are fireplaces and inserts different? Is also used to convert a wood fireplace into a gas fireplace?


texts: Will ceiling junction box support fan mounting?

texts: Will current ceiling junction box support fan? Not exactly sure if a fan was mounted to it prior as I recently moved into this apartment. Somewhat older of an apartment and box doesn’t directly state if fan is supported or not. Figured it was better to check first.


texts:
Seeking some advice on installing a sub panel in a detached garage.  I have a 200amp main in my house and I plan on installing a 90 amp sub-panel in a detached garage approx. 100FT away from the main panel.

In order to avoid having to run a conduit in the house, I am planning on running 2-2-2-4 SER Aluminum cable from the main panel through a crawlspace into a metal junction box, then transition over to MHF. The MHF wire will run from that junction box through a rigid conduit buried 6” underground directly into the garage panel.  Using Rigid over PVC due to the rocky soil making it difficult to dig 18” deep. I plan on installing a grounding rod next the garage which will ground the sub panel. Can I run the wire in this manner or does the rigid conduit need to be bonded back to he main panel?

Would I be better off running MHF the entire way and running it through EMT within the house from the main and transitioning to the Rigid conduit for the underground?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: How can I replace a old, large drop in sink with a smaller top mount?

texts: I have a 28" x 19" drop in sink and want to replace it without changing cabnetry or countertop. What options do I have to close the large hole. I know I can't match the white corian countertop, but I was thinking to put in some design of sorts to sit the top mounted sink.


texts: How do I remove footprints after sealing travertine tile?

texts:
It looks like I made a pretty basic mistake and stepped into some of the sealant after sealing my travertine tiles last night.Today you can see footprints in the sealant.

What is the best way to remove these? Do I need to strip the sealant or can I reseal the tiles?


texts: Adjusting a sliding patio door: does the door have to rest equally on both rollers?

texts:
I have a strange problem. Both jambs are plumb, the sill is level but the sliding door does not close properly if I do not raise one of the rollers almost to the maximum. Funny thing is that this misalignment happens when the moving door is also set plumb. Geometrically this should not be possible.

One of the issues I am trying to solve is to keep the edges of the two doors, the fixed one and the sliding one when closed perfectly overlapped so achieve perfect insulation


texts:
I am building a closet organizer using plywood. I want to put a clear finish over the plywood to protect it.  I am going with either Shellac or Water-based Polyurethane to avoid the nasty smell.

I would like to know, in your experience, how many coats is needed for such application?  This is not high used furniture like tables.  Just looking for reasonable protection while minimizing the time for finishing.  There are lots of panels to cover thus you can imagine if I can do one less coat, it’s lots of time saved.


texts: Is checking the oil in a fridge as straight forward as a car?

texts:
I see in another question that the compressor in a fridge has oil in it, and that it has the ability to get dirty over time.  Based on the knocking sounds of my fridge, I wonder if it's due for an oil change.

Is it possible for the average person to change the oil in a fridge?


texts: I installed outdoor carpet on my porch.  The glue bled through in spots.  What can I use to remove the spots from the carpet?


texts:
It’s tough to see from the picture, but the entire top section of frame of the sliding door is bowed downward.
I’ve tried adjustments on the door, and it either gets stuck in the middle or falls off track on the ends.
Any ideas on how to repair?
I’d be happy to edit in any clarifying information.


texts: I have a sewer near the house where two sewer pipes meet. The problem is that it's been built badly and a lot of sewage remains there instead of going in the 3rd pipe. How could I make it go through the pipe?


texts: Finding studs behind new build drywall to mount TV

texts:
I am a complete DIY novice so please bear with me!
I live in a house built in 2019 and got someone to mount a 45" TV to our bedroom wall which is interior drywall. The TV has stayed up for almost 1.5 years without issue.
After changing/rearranging the furniture in the bedroom it was now off centre to the bed so I decided to remove that TV and bracket from the wall and replace it with a new wall bracket for a better 49" TV I have. The bracket needs to go on the same wall - just in a different position.
The wall does sound hollow to varying degrees when I tap it so it seemed obvious I would be mounting into studs. Using an electronic stud finder and magnets I am able to find the first 6 studs 16" apart from the side of the wall coming inwards as expected, there is then another stud only 8 inches apart. Then after that (in the space I want to mount the TV - typical) I can't find anything. My electronic stud finder can't find anything and the magnets don't attract to anywhere. Not sure if significant but there looks to be a supporting beam running perpendicular to the wall at the point I can no longer find any studs.

Looking at the way it was mounted originally the holes drilled don't appear to be going into any studs and I don't recognize the fixings  as drywall anchors (as I said I'm a novice so could be completely wrong here!).

Looking into the holes that were drilled  it looks like there is some sort of grey brick almost immediately behind the plasterboard that the fixings were drilled/hammered into.

My questions are:

Do I start drilling holes attempting to find a stud (and how do I do this without causing loads of damage)?
Do I use similar fixings to what was used previously (I have some Fischer UX10x60 R fixings that came with the TV bracket that look similar to the original ones although it does say not for use in drywall) or do I use (Gripit) drywall anchors?


texts: Critter dug gravel out from under my barn's cement slab

texts:
I live in the country and have a pole barn with a cement floor.
A critter of some sort has dug a burrow in the dirt under the outside of the barn and pulled out a couple of wheel barrows full of the gravel that supports the concrete floor. The entrance he dug out under the slab is at ground level and only about 12 inches wide.
I am sure the critter is gone now but I have no idea of how to get all that gravel back under the concrete slab.
I don't have any equipment like a backhoe, dozer, bobcat etc. Only hand emplements.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Trent.


texts: Is my surge protector really a surge protector?

texts: I dont know if this is the right place to ask this question or not. Ive recently bought a surge protector(those small square ones) and im gonna connect it to my Computer. Now the thing is that im not  sure if its really a surge protector or not. Its cause i bought the protector online and ive read some reviews on the website about the protector and some of the reviews were not good. One even claimed that it was nothing but a simple connector.So, is there a way to check if the surge protector is functional or not, like from a multimeter or something, cause i really don,t want my cpu to fry. TIA!


texts: Convert a switched receptacle to a non switched receptacle

texts:
This is a code question and I live in the US.

Some background.  My house originally had no overhead lights except for the bathrooms, kitchen and hallways.  The rest of the rooms had just one switched receptacle, usually in the most inconvenient spot to put a floor lamp.  The house has two circuits for the non-switched receptacles and two circuits for the switched receptacles and overhead lights.  I've since rewired all the rooms with overhead lights and most of the switched receptacles I've converted to non-switched.

Now the code question.  Is there any code violations converting a switched receptacle on a lighting circuit to a non switched receptacle?  Or Similar, could someone add a receptacle to a lighting circuit and still be under code.


texts: My fridge runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level?

texts: My refrigerator runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level?  It doesn't seem to be any other reason.


texts: How can I use a portable A/C unit to cool my clean room?

texts:
So, I have built a room inside my shop, a clean room for finish and airbrushing. I want to cool this room as I spend more time in it than the rest of my shop (garage)
So, I get a portable unit.  Block walls, no possibility of a window unit.
The room I built is false..that is to say it's not correctly framed, finished, insulated, etc. It's just insulation panels, so it's not, nor will it ever be air tight.
The portable AC unit seems to make it more humid in the room - my theory is it's pulling the hot, humid air in from the shop and not really helping. So .. my question.

Can I put the unit in the shop, and run a duct for the cold air into the room I want to cool? I have an exhaust fan (on the way) that I will install in the room to exhaust the air.


texts: How can I clean out a dryer vent which exits under my backyard deck?

texts:
Since I cannot reach the end of my dryer vent cover to push all the lint out with the long brush kit, what is the next best way to go about cleaning it? Would using a shop vac hose work and suck it all back towards the dryer?

The pipe is quite long stretching through the front of my house to the back. Roughly 30ft.

Thank you!


texts: HansGrohe lacuna faucet low water pressure

texts: I have a Hans Grohe Lacuna faucet.  We love it, but it's started to run slow recently.  There's a filtered water tap that uses the same cold water supply, and it's running fine.  I assume it's the faucet.  I cleaned out the aerator, but that seems to not have fixed anything.


texts: Should I hire a structural engineer or an architect?

texts:
Our house is a standard 2-up 2-down terrace (well, end terrace) with the usual kitchen / bathroom extension on the back done many years ago.

Beside the kitchen, in the gap between our kitchen and the neighbours, is currently a temporary style utility room - single brick course low height wall, uPVC windows and some form of sheet plastic slightly-pitched roof.  I want to knock this down and rebuild properly with a flat roof design and also knock out some walls, involving RSJs, to open the kitchen up a little.

I also have a very similarly constructed front porch that I would like to slightly enlarge and build properly with better insulation and a stronger front door. The roof on this would be pitched.

My question: proper planning is going to be required, but do I need the services of a structural engineer or an architect in order to draw up the plans? These plans would then be presented for any planning permission and also to builders for quoting.

I could be confusing the roles a little, I am assuming SEs do drawings and I'm assuming the job is a little basic for an architect (after all, I'm not after anything adventurous - the end result will look very similar to what is currently there). But in either situation, I need proper calculations doing as removing the walls impacts a double-course outer wall and the utility currently has limited-to-no foundations.


texts: How do I increase the volume of air going into my lawn sprinkler zones to blow out water for the winter?

texts: I have a 13 Gallon tank in my compressor. I can get the pressure up to over 100 PSI, but when I allow air to flow into individual sprinkler zones, the pressure at my manifold reads only about 10-15 PSI, although the guages on the compresser read over 80PSI during the whole operation. My guess is that the flow of air is limited by the diameter of the hose fittings, or maybe I don't know how to set the regulators on the compressor. How can I get more volume of air to flow? My compressor has 2 outlets. Can I attach 2 hoses to the compressor and have them attach to the sprinkler manifold using 2 couplers with a "Y" connecter? I know the professionals use a larger hose and I believe go through a garden hose size opening.


texts: In my attic there is a beam that ends 80% of the way through. A few of the joists are connected with nails but are unsupported laterally. Should these joists have better support?


texts: How long does caulk need to dry in a 1" gap?

texts:
There's a large gap under the part of the shower stall that touches the wall because of the way the bathroom floor is slanted. When we first moved in the caulk that was put there by the workers washed away. I removed all the original caulk and started over. I filled in the large gap completely with about a tube of caulk. That evening the toilet flooded the outside and washed away some caulk. By then I had realized there should have been some material stuffed into the gap for all that caulk to adhere to. I found some foam/plastic tubing that goes around mirrors and cut a couple pieces to fit the gap. I stuffed them in on the side where the caulk had come lose. Then I re-caulked that side. Now it's been a couple of days and while the outside of the caulk is stiff it still gives way when pressed. I guess it's still wet inside.

My question is: when will it be safe to use the shower?


texts: What would cause a furnace to shut off prematurely?

texts:
I've got a Carrier Weathermaker 8000 furnace that shuts off about 90 seconds or so after ignition, started doing this recently.  I get flashing code "33" which indicates:

The code indicates:

33 LIMIT OR FLAME ROLL-OUT SWITCH IS OPEN - If open longer than three minutes, code Changes to #13. Check for:

Defective blower motor or start capacitor.
Dirty filter or restricted duct system.
Loose blower wheel.
Defective switch or connections.
Inadequate Combustion air supply Flame Roll-out Switch or fuse link.
Open Flame Roll-out switch,or fuse link. Manual reset or replace.

I've found the manual here, although it doesn't really help me.

Leading up to this, I hadn't checked/changed the filter in a while.  It wasn't on my mind because I usually hear my furnace straining or so on.. when I did go check it, I realized that was because the filter had collapsed and been pulled down the air intake.... so yes it was filthy and also I basically ran without a filter for who knows how long.

First things first, I cleaned all the dust out of the inside and blew air through all the components.

I've been able to check the large rectangular Flame Roll-out Switch and the 2 smaller switches, they all are closed when checked with a multimeter for continuity, and just for kicks I pressed the button on the 2 smaller switches to give them a manual reset.

It appears that I've got a no-kidding problems with the unit becoming too hot, not a false positive.  Although I am not positive about this.

It seems like my next step would be to check the capacitor to see if it would be causing low voltage to the blower motor, but I don't know how to check that?  Also it could be the blower motor being 'defective' - how do I know that or check that without simply trying a replacement part?

So please, if someone can tell me how to check the capacitor, how to check the motor, and what to do next, it would be very appreciated!


texts: Non-substantial remote door locking options for indoor rooms?

texts:
I need to be able to secure a couple indoor rooms with wireless locks. These don't need to be substantial locks since they're just inside a house, but unfortunately I'm not seeing any real wireless locking door options. Does such a contraption even exist?

Use cases could be to have a wireless button, similar to these devices (I suppose a phone could work, but that's not very convenient since these are localized and it would be better to just be able to press a handy button):

that would then trigger the door lock mechanism from 10-100 feet away.

I'm not talking about really keeping someone out, just deterrents for bedrooms, office, bathroom, etc. where you want to say "hey, don't come in here while I'm busy, etc."


texts: Where is the best place to store cardboard?

texts:
Having recently moved, a thrifty state of mind, and plenty of room for storage, taking into account mice, mold, and structural breakdown:

Would it be better to storage collapsed moving boxes in the garage attic or the basement?

I live near Indianapolis and the garage is not specially insulated, should climate need to be taken into account.


texts: Cedar shims disappeared because of COVID-19

texts: I've been hunting for contractor quality cedar shims - the super-wide kind that easily break along the grain. The big box stores don't have them and neither do the local lumber yards. At one of them I visited, they told me that they haven't been able to get them since COVID started. What's the connection? What other materials might be affected by COVID going forward?


texts: How can I remove a "log lighter" pipe from my fireplace?

texts:
My fireplace has a log lighter:

What is the easy way to remove it?  Can I use WD-40 to loosen the connector?


texts: How to diagnose a broken Aprilaire humidifier (Model 600)?

texts:
I have an Aprilaire Humidifier Model 600 (or maybe 600M) mounted on my furnace. The humidifier  is not turning on (i.e. letting water flow over the filter) when the furnace is on.

The below images show:

The control dial with the faceplate on.
The control dial with the faceplace off.
The housing that contains the filter.
The water solenoid.

The control dial has three wire pairs connected to it:

One pair goes to the furance to get 24V AC power. I've confirmed this has power when the furnance is on.
One pair goes to the solenoid and passes on the 24V AC. I've confirmed when the control knob is moved to "Test" (and the furnace is on) that the solenoid opens and water flows to the filter. So the "water side" of the humidifier works.
One pair goes to an ourdoor temperature sensor mounted in the housing of my air conditioner unit. I ohm tested the temp sensor and got nothing. So I replaced the temp sensor with an Aprilaire Model 8052 sensor.

I thought for sure that replacing the temp sensor would resolve my problem. But after two days of running with the new sensor (and setting the control knob to "6"), a humidity sensor in my house hasn't really moved from 46%.
As mentioned, when I turn the knob to Test I can hear the solenoid open and see water flow. But when the knob is at 6 and the furnace is on, I never hear the solenoid get activated.

What other steps can I take to diagnose the problem? I've always ohm tested the temp sensor out at the air conditioner. So I could try testing it at the control panel I suppose. The other possibility is that some electronics in the control panel have gone bad.


texts: How to fix a leaking trim plate in shower

texts:
My shower leaks when water is splashed onto the trim plate around the water dial.  I assume there is some sort of gasket that needs to be replaced.  I do not know what any of these parts are called.

Please enlighten me as to the name of the parts I'll be dealing with, and any information that may be helpful in fixing this problem.

To be clear, I can run the shower for a solid hour when nobody is in there with no leaking.  Once someone splashes water onto the handle or spigot, water can be seen leaking around the pipe (witnessed through access panel).


texts: How to stop my washing machine from squeaking?

texts:
I own a GE WHDSR316G2WW washing machine. It was whisper-silent when new, but after a few years and several off-balance loads, it developed a persistent squeak that seemed to happen mostly when the motor would change direction while agitating a load.

Yesterday I finally got around to changing the drive belt, and that helped a bit, but the squeak's still there. While I had the machine apart, though, I found the source of the squeak. There are two metal tabs that, when the tub is filled with water and riding low, rub against the inside bottom of the washer shell:

Here's a wider view for context:

I'm not sure about the purpose of these tabs, nor why they didn't squeak when the washer was new, but do now. In any case, I can think of a few possible quick fixes:

Grease the points of contact between these tabs and the washer shell. This might work for a while, but there's no evidence of grease there now, so I doubt this was the original solution. It probably wouldn't take much time for the grease to be rubbed away, either.
Use cable ties (or similar) to fasten the tabs to the nearby brackets. This could prevent them from getting close enough to the bottom shell to make contact, but it would also restrict the tub's range of motion, which is probably a bad idea (e.g., I could see that worsening vibration).
Bend/shave the brackets to increase clearance. This could work, but it seems like they're meant to be the length they are now to prevent other parts of the tub assembly (like the motor and ballast) from bottoming out.

Is there a proper way to handle this - maybe just another common maintenance chore that I'm missing? Can I tune up or adjust the tub's suspension to be firmer and thus ride higher to avoid bottoming out on these tabs? Any other ideas?


texts: What can cause a wet patch to appear on an outside wall around an external tap?

texts:
I have just noticed that I have a wet patch around my external tap on the outside wall.
The wall seems to dry throughout the day.
I have turned off the water to the tap, but the following morning, the outside wall is again damp.
I have looked at the internal wall and there is no sign of water.

I do not know where to look/what to do next. What could be causing this wetness, and how can I fix it?


texts: Is it legal (or green) to have an unswitched bath exhaust fan with nightlight that runs 24/7?

texts:
I just bought an Opportunity Home - a totally refurbished house that is "green." However, the bathroom exhaust fans - in three bathrooms - all have motion detector nightlights and run 24/7. There are two switches in each bath, one for the vanity light and one for the ceiling light. There are no switches to turn off the fans.

My home inspection missed this, I'm assuming, because this could not be considered green by any measure, could it? Not to mention my electricity bill!

What can I do? I have basic wiring skills from the local community college and tools. Or should I contact the warranty people?


texts: Can I piggyback a thermostat with a C Wire hookup on a furnace?

texts:
I'm trying to install a new thermostat that needs a C wire hookup. There are currently 4 wires running from the thermostat to the furnace, none of them are a c wire. When I look at my furnace itself it has a spot to put a c wire but it's currently being used by my whole-home humidifier.

If I run a separate 18-1 wire from my thermostat to the furnace can I just wire both the humidifier and thermostat to the one c-wire hookup?


texts: Repair of antique standing lamp light fitting (UK)

texts: I have broken this light fitting off an antique wooden lamp stand. It's a bayonet fitting, which screws onto a brass screw thread. Is this a standard fitting? Does anyone know where I could get one in the UK? Thanks.


texts: Would like to change an existing outlet to half-hot

texts: I have an outlet that is fully hot. I would like to make it half-hot instead. There are only TWO wires total going to the outlet; one white and one red. Is it possible to make this outlet half hot with only two wires?


texts:
Let me start by saying thank you for reading my question. I appreciate any help offered.

My husband and I just moved to Arizona from Ohio. We purchased a modular home off grid in the mountains. This home was a rental and the owner of the property lived in Colorado. The home is powered by a generator feed by propane. Neither one of us have dealt with a system like this before. Future plans are to install solar.

The problem we are having is the generator will still be running and the power turns off in the home. It doesn't matter what is on. It could be just the refrigerator or a combination of things. It doesn't trip any breakers when it turns off. It can stay running for  hours or just minutes. It seems to stay on longer at night. This is not always the case though. We have tried turning off the breakers one by one and it still powers off.

We have replaced the circuit breaker in the generator. We replaced the main circuit breaker in the house. When we replaced the one in the home the wall with 5 outlets in the kitchen work now, which they had not previously. We had no issues with the power the rest of the day or the next. Now it is worse then ever.

The only other thing is we did an oil change (air filter and oil filter also) on the generator . We didn't have these issues before doing this. The oil was solid black. We actually did two oil changes in two days because the oil was so black after the first oil change. We have no idea when it was last done, but by the looks of things it has been awhile.

Would the oil change make the generator run more efficiently so that the house cannot handle the power supplied? The breaker box says the power supplied should not be over 100 amps. Does the breaker box need updated? We are thinking it has to be the electric, since the generator stays running.

It is frustrating since there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to the power going out. It might only go out 3 times one day and the next we can't get it to stay on.

Again, thank you for reading.  I hope I have given enough information for someone to have some idea what is wrong. If we can't figure it out, of course we will call an electrician. Right now we are over extended with the property purchase, purchase of every appliances and the long move.


texts: Bernzomatic propane torch won't light properly

texts: I have a Bernzomatic propane torch, #UL2317.  It stopped working in the middle of a job.  I tried a new tank but have the same problem.  It makes a hissing sound when I turn the knob and I can get a very small flame initially but when I turn it up the flame goes out (but still hisses).  Any suggestions?


texts: burners out of sequence with blower motor

texts:
I have a Bryant furnace plus 90 model #398AAW036060D. I just changed the blower motor. In the last five years I've changed the main board, inducer board, pressure switch, and cleaned the igniter the the the fan limit switch.

It was running well and then it got to where the inducer motor starts, burners light and run, and after the burners stop firing the blower motor runs. The furnace blows warm air. The blower stops and then the whole process starts again. What would cause this?


texts:
What is the best way to paint a large piece of glass (4ft x 6ft) opaque black? I was thinking about using PlastiDip, any opinions?

I considered film, but it's hard to find decent priced film that is 4ft wide, and I don't want to deal with seams.

I am turning it into a black dry erase board that will hang on my wall, so this will be the back of the glass. I am willing to put the time needed into it, to make it look decent. The size of the glass makes it a little awkward to work with.


texts:
My front door is a bit sticky. Probably caused  by aging door step, water damage, and foundation repair. What do you recommend?

(1) sand down the existing threshold.  What do I use to seal the old wood?

(2) replace the threshold. How do I do that?

(3) sand down bottom of door?

It is a double door, about 64 inches. There is a wood floor on inside and a wooden board on the exterior side.


texts: What is the R-Value of plastic over a window?

texts:
So we're about to have a cold snap (20 degrees, cold for us here in Central Texas).  I have old windows on the house in need of replacement, but for now, I did a hack for the next week/month: I placed 2.5 mil plastic over the window banks (groups of 2 windows) and securely duct taped the edges.  The gap is about 2 1/2 inches.

The windows themselves are standard 1/16" thick single pane windows, double hung, been around forever.

My question is, how much value is there in doing this?  I am doing this for approximately 140 square feet of window surface.  Is there an estimated flow differential between with and without in terms of BTU's/hour, assuming an outside air temperature of 20 degrees farenheit, a an inside air temperature of 78 degrees farenheit?  Thanks!


texts: Are these drywall screws driven too deep into the sheet?

texts:
First off, I apologize for the asking and deleting my previous question about this.  I thought it was more of a dupe of this question that I asked a while back.  I'll be more central to the actual issue this time.

I hired a company to hang drywall on my ceiling and then mud/finish all surfaces so I could paint.  Included are pics I took of a few of their more excessively-sunken screws.  I said to one of the guys, "Not to criticize your work, but aren't you driving the screw too deep?"  He said, "The head of the screw can't be flush to the drywall surface.  You have to countersink it like this so that you can mud over it."  I agree with that statement, but what I've learned is that you're supposed to dimple the screw in, not drive it through the paper.  In these pics, it definitely looks like the heads broke the paper.  Is this a typical installation by professional drywallers working for a company with a solid A rating backed by lots of reviews on Angie's list?


texts: Replacing an exterior screen door footer threshold to close gap

texts:
So I'm repairing issues on a home that was damaged in a flood about 8 years ago.  A contractor had done all the repairs after the flood but I've found lots of corners cut and shotty work.
The door to the basement is in a stairwell below grade, and consists of a wood door and a glass screen door, with an approx 11in gap between them.  Below the screen door is a large gap (seen in the first photo), with no footer below the screen door.  I'm almost positive before the flood, there was a wood footer here that was mounted to the concrete below the door frame, that closed the gap under the screen door. So I think this footer was damaged in the flood, was removed and never replaced, leaving this large gap for bugs and other critters to enter the basement freely.

Looking at the concrete below the door frame, I can see there are holes where the previous footer was mounted to, that have been filled with foam, and covered with white paint.  Also the area below the door frame isn't completely vertical, the bottom slants inwards toward the house.

So I'm asking what would be the best way to close this gap so the screen door rubber seal can close against it?  I have a pressure treated 2x4 that fits almost perfectly below the door and seals against the screen door rubber seal.  Would installing a pressure treated 2x4 across the door frame solve this problem?  Or is that a short term solution as it would rot out from the water/moisture that gathers in the stairwell?
Any guidance would be very appreciated, I'm not sure if the terms I'm using are correct as well, I've had a hard time finding similar issues when searching online.


texts: Best way to level tile floor after drain tile installation?

texts:
Had some flooding issues last spring and had drain tile installed in our basement. They cut away the tile to install the drain tile. Now we want to lay laminate over the tile but there's about a 2-3' gap between the wall and where the tile begins that is down to the original concrete. Question is, what is the best way to fill this gap to make the floor level? Suggestions we've been given are:
-self leveling concrete
-flooring underlayment
-cork

Any help is appreciated!


texts: How should ground wires be handled when updating switch loops in an older home?

texts:
I have a house built in the 1950’s with fabric covered NMC wiring still present in most circuits.  Those original wires are all 12/2 with no ground.  I am currently in the process of replacing some of my old switch loops with new 12/3 romex from the light fixture to the switch box in order to bring in a neutral for “smart” switches.  The existing switch box is metal.

I want to go from a typical switch loop (my old wiring only has line and neutral)

To one that supplies neutral from the fixture to the switch box

These wiring diagrams belong to do-it-yourself-help.com and can be found here: https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_switches.html

My question is, what is the proper way per NEC to terminate the ground wire inside the new 12/3 romex?  The light fixture itself has a ground wire that is currently floating.  Should I leave the ground wire disconnected and just cap it by itself? Should I attach the ground wire at the fixture to the ground at the new cable in the event that ground may someday be brought to that receptacle? (This seems more dangerous to me since it’s definitely not currently grounded.)  Should I clip it up to the romex jacket and pretend it isn’t there?

I know the technically correct thing to do would be to pull new 12/2 wire from the existing fixture back to the panel (basically rewire the whole house), but that is not economically feasible.  I am looking for the most code-compliant way to handle this ground wire, but I am not having any luck searching through the 2017 NEC.  Any advice on the proper way to handle my scenario would be appreciated, especially if they can point to the relevant section(s) of the electrical code.


texts: What to do with a new duplex outlet when the tester says Hot & Ground are Reversed?

texts:
I switched out a regular outlet with a LeGrand Radiant Duplex Outlet, connecting all of the wires (2 White, 2 Black and 1 Green) exactly as the previous outlet was wired and according to the instructions. It blew and the breaker is on but the outlets and lights connected won't work. I can't find the GFCI anywhere as the house is 28 years old and the wiring is a mess. If the breaker is on, could the GFCI trip the outlets?

I bought a Commercial Electric Outlet Tester Model: MS112H and each time I tested the out, it stated Hot/Grd. Reverse... What does that mean?!? I can't imagine the Ground Wire being connected to anything other than the Ground Input, especially the Hot Input! How I wire it differently?

Thanks for reading and helping...


texts: What is an acceptable temperature difference for rooms over garage vs not over garage in a new home?

texts:
I recently moved into a new construction home where there are rooms above the garage. I've read several articles about how you can add insulation, but I am trying to figure out what I should reasonably expect by default.

The home also has two-zone hvac where upstairs is on it's own so I am expecting better than if it was one zone for the whole house.

I used a infrared thermometer (not expensive FLIR, but basic). Taking reading from the master bedroom where the thermostat is to the bedrooms above the garage, I get typically about 7 degree Fahrenheit difference.

So Far

Test Day 1 in Sep: 74 in the room with thermostat, 67 in the rooms above garage

Test Day 2 in Oct: 69 in the room with thermostat, 62.5 in rooms above garage.

Are there any standards or code which I should be checking? I want to have the builder do at least the proper minimum before I start shelling out from spray foam or something else. This seems like something is missing for such a big difference.

Edit:
I have not yet had the system blowing on full tilt for a long time for heat. Even on days when it was in the 70s outside, it would feel cold in the bedrooms, and the temp in the garage would actually be warmer. Maybe when the systems are blowing hard it will have an impact, but in the shoulder seasons when systems aren't blowing a lot I would expect closer temps across the floor in a new home.


texts: moving light switch from closet outer wall to inner wall and turning it into Maestro occupancy light switch

texts: I want to change a closet light switch to inside the closet and make it a maestro occupancy switch.  I took the current switch off and didn’t take a picture only to find that it must be in middle of the run.  So I don’t know how to wire the Occ switch (with 2 black wires) into old switch box wires.  In old switch, I have 1 set of wires coming in from bottom that are black,red, white, ground.  In the top of the old switch box there are two sets.  One with black, red, white, ground.  One with black, white, ground(believe this is the light).  The blacks are all nutted together, the whites are all nutted together as are the grounds.  The two reds from the 3/1 wires are nutted together.  There is also a ground coming from the nutted grounds and it is intertwined amongst blacks but not nutted to anything(guessing it was to the old switch)   When I pulled of old switch, there was a black jumper-like wire on bottom nut on switch that I wish I knew where it went because that what I am probably messing up.  I ran a 2/1 Romex (B,w,ground) to the new box and the maestro switch.  Connected the top black wire to the romex black.  The bottom black wire to the rommex white and took maestro green & ground and connected it to the rommex ground.  In the old box I connected the rommex black to all the other blacks, the ground to all the other grounds and the rommex “white” to the 2 reds.  Light turns on, but won’t turn off with switch nor occupancy time outs.  Tried connecting rommex “white” to old box white and breaker popped when light went out.  Not sure what to connect what to?


texts: Do you really need a pipe out for potential harmful gas for pump

texts:
I recently replaced a Laundry pump, the laundry pump has 2 connections out, one is a pvc pipe out to the drain, the other opening is for piping out gas/air from sewer system. Currently, I have the other opening just there, without attaching a pipe to go to outside of the house.

Home Depot is selling this air filter thing, that I can connect to that opening, supposed to filter out the gas / air. My question is, is it worth it? I don't seem to smell or experience any leak gas/air from the sewer.

Should I install the air filter? or should I install the pipe out to the house.
Is there potential harmful effects from the sewer gas? how do I even test to see if there is any potential gas/air from sewer?

Here's the pump that I installed. Here's the manual. Here's the air admittance valve.

Diagram from the manual:


texts: Is a splice permitted in a PVC conduit body?

texts: I'm talking about something like this Type LB Conduit Body


texts: What is good advice for introducing kids to home improvement?

texts:
I have kids.  My oldest two have done a lot of framing with me, punched holes for electric, connected electric on dead circuits...

But also I am very apprehensive in letting them use some tools - angle grinder, nail guns, torch, circular saw (they can use the miter) along with a few others are strictly off limits right now.  I want my kids to learn but not go to the emergency room.

What are some good guidelines for kids learning DIY stuff?  At what age would you allow them to operate more dangerous pieces of equipment?


texts: Can I use a 220v 60 amp breaker and 4/3 line for a sub panely with 2 breakers 220 1 35 amp and 1 15 amp

texts:
I have two old package heatpumps supplied by what looks like 4/3 lines each on its own breaker.  60 amp fuses.   I am installing two split units the condenser requires 220 and 20 or 35 amp depending on if I run it in 2 ton or 3 ton mode.  Plan is to start wit 2 ton mode.  The air handler takes a 220v 15 amp fuse.  So worst case I have 50 amps more likely 35 amps.   I do not want to run to more lines to get 4 circuits at that location, likely $400 just for the wire.   So I want to take each 60 amp 220v circuit run it to its own sub panel with two 220v circuits summing 50 amps or less.  To stick with code I then need to have a disconnect on each circuit at the unit a few feet away.   Any issues with this, I want to stay 100% safe.  The old units are or WERE beasts, the new ones high efficient inverter technology with variable speeds with no hard starts so a lot easier on the entire circuits.
Looking for confirmation on my plan as safe and PROPER.  Will verify the wires are 4/3, would it still work of they are 6/3.  Plan to start tearing down and seeing what the wires actually are tomorrow.   Thanks


texts: When my GF & I lay in bed late at night, we can hear continuous beeping somewhere nearby. The tone & rhythm of the beeping is exactly like an alarm clock, but we don't own one, nor do the neighbors. Is there anything in electrical wiring or plumbing that could possibly make this noise? Has anyone else had this happen? It's driving us insane.


texts: Reuse wire nut when adding electrical outlet?

texts:
Went to Lowe's and bought the materials to pig-tail an electrical outlet. The guy had me buy some wire nuts. But the outlet and I am going to run the additional outlet from has 3 wire nuts already.

Can't I just reuse the wire nuts?


texts: A closed breaker has some voltage going through - how is that possible?

texts:
Some background first: I have a single-phase system (220V). I installed an RCBO direct from the external supply and then the output from that went into the main breaker panel outside the house.

I seem to have some leakage somewhere in the house, which kept tripping the RCBO. There's another RCBO built into the subpanel inside the house and that doesn't trip, so I went back to the installation of the new RCBO.

The manual says to wire the hot/live cable to the live RCBO input and the neutral cable must first go to the neutral block on the panel and then from there to the neutral RCBO input. Each subpanel has its own ground, so I only link the ground and neutral blocks on the main panel.

This alternative installation doesn't make sense to me, but if that's what the installation pamphlet says then I won't argue. The RCBO still trips - so that didn't solve that problem.

However, now I have a new problem. If I switch on one of the breakers, I get the normal 220V going through that breaker.

BUT NOW I'M GETTING ABOUT 2V-6V COMING FROM THE OUTPUT OF THE NEIGHBORING BREAKERS EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE OFF! Why is this happening???

(It may be that this was the case beforehand and I just didn't notice. Could ALL the breakers be faulty? Or could it be some weird wiring with the main breaker that's the cause of it - maybe connecting the cables into the wrong ends?)

A related problem is that there's 220V going to ground when one of the breakers is on. I think that's normal. But the electrician has probably connected the earth to the pole carrying the cables from the grid. It's a metal pole sticking out of the ground - and registers 220V. Is that normal? Is that safe!???

I'm tearing my hair out. And I've called in 3 electricians already, but we live in Thailand where just about anybody can call themselves an electrician. They don't seem to know much more about installations (and RCBOs) than I do (which isn't all that much).

Any ideas? Please help!


texts: How to remove downlight with mouse trap clips

texts: See attached pic. I have downlights like this in my apartment. I don't know how to get at the mouse trap clips. I can pull down on the downlight at the seal with the roof but then I need to flick the clips on the left and right up. How can I do this? With a thin knife maybe?


texts: Putting shower head in the sink caused flood

texts:
The bathroom in our rental has a cartridge that you push in to change from a shower to a bath, and the shower has a hose that lets you detach it from the wall. My tenant said that she had been putting the shower head on the floor when taking a bath. There was quite a lot of water that leaked in from the bathroom into the floor below. A couple of questions to understand what happened.

If the water is not currently leaking that means that there is not an issue with a leaky pipe, but that water was flowing down the path of least resistance; i.e. the shower to the floor?
Does the fact that the floor leaked mean that something is not caulked correctly or is it not possible for floors in bathrooms to handle a lot of water?
I was able to put a knife pretty deep into the wood, can a single water event cause the wood to get that soft or would it require multiple events?


texts:
There are two cavities in the wall.  I want to replace the old smoke detector. Questions:
(1) What's the big metal square thing on the right in the lower cavity, and did the lower cavity once house a more ancient smoke detector?
(2) If I replace the dangling old smoke detector with a new one in the upper cavity, can I patch the lower cavity with drywall?  Or does that violate code?


texts: How to debug a light fixture that is no longer working

texts:
I changed out the switch on the light fixture in my bathroom, and the fixture no longer works. Prior to my changing the switch, both the old switch and the fixture worked fine. I'm trying to figure out the root of the problem.
I tried swapping the new switch for another new switch. No change.
I tried swapping the fixture for another fixture. No change.
That suggests the issue could be a problem with the wiring between the switch and the fixture, but that seems odd to me -- what exactly would the problem be?
There's also the possibility that I'm somehow messing up the wiring of the switch somehow. This seems more likely -- human error! -- but there are only two wires here, a red and a blue. My understanding is that the red one is the hot wire and therefore the blue one is presumably the neutral, but the information I've found online about blue wiring is a little hard to decipher. See the attached image. There is also a GFCI outlet (which still works fine) in the box.

This is the light fixture box. There is no blue wire here, so I gather there is some sort of junction in between the switch and the fixture.

Finally, I discovered an old fixture box behind a (bad) patch in the drywall. I'm including an image here in case it is relevant. I note that there is a blue wire at the top of the box, and if this was the fixture used before the new one was installed, it would make sense that current is being routed through this fixture to the new one.

Here's how all three boxes in relation to one another on the wall.

I'm going to pick up a non-contact voltage tester today and try to diagnose further. Right now, I'm just planning to see whether current is actually making it 1) to the switch, 2) through the switch to the old fixture, 3) and through the switch to the new fixture.
Any other suggestions on how to figure out what is going on here? Since this was working a short time ago, I'm hoping I can fix it myself, but I will bring in an electrician if turns out to be more complicated than just installing a switch or fixture correctly.


texts: Of course they don't have really small containers of spackle.  I haven't even used 1/8 of it - Is there anything you can do with the leftovers?  How long can you store it?


texts:
How do i remove this shower valve stem? It looks different from others i have seen in DIY videos.

Info:

This is a very old house.
Shower/Tub is downstairs.
Water has been turned off and pressure relieved.

My initial thoughts are:

Is there a "sheath" on the shower valve - why is it so fat?
I do not see anything exposed that a valve wrench could grasp

UPDATE:

I've removed the shower valve sheath thing. What am I looking at here?

Should I remove this plastic piece or leave it on and find something that fits it?


texts: How do I add veneer stone to an exterior painted wall?

texts: I have an exterior painted wall and am interested in installing a stone veneer. I realize that I may have to install wire mesh to the areas but I'm wondering if there is a material that can be used to apply to the stone to the painted wall without mesh? Or should the paint be removed as much as possible then attach the wire mesh and apply a scratch coat?


texts: I know that indoor humidity should be <60%. If it is 80% for a week due to a week of rain, is this a problem, if when it stops raining it returns to 50-60%? The house is in PA, where humidity is not always a problem (like FL), but we have had very high levels outside for a week.


texts:
I'm trying raise a swing. A chain is attached to both sides of the swing seat and the topmost links are wider than the others to allow a carabiner to be used to attach the swing to the pole overhead. How could I go about widening one of the lower links so I could raise the swing?

I tried sticking needle-nose pliers through the links and pulling the handles apart, but there wasn't enough leverage to bend them.


texts: Is it necessary to strip all of the previous paint before repainting my indoor metal spiral staircase?

texts:
I have a metal spiral staircase that has an existing coat of paint, but I want to re-paint it white.  Do I need to remove all of the existing paint before I re-paint it?
I’m not sure exactly what kind of metal or what kind of paint the original coat is, but the paint is in great shape and there is no rusting or anything.  The treads used to be covered in carpet and so there’s glue residue on them that will need to be removed, but I’d rather not have to go through the tedious process of sanding down each individual railing (further than a rough sand to allow a bond to the original paint).
A related question is whether it would be ill-advised to use the standard semi-gloss paint I’ve been using for the doors and trim around the house, but I’m guessing it’s best to use a more specialized paint.  I plan to get tread covers for the steps so the paint won’t need to hold up to traffic, but I certainly want to do the best I can to make sure it won’t peel or chip any time soon.
Thanks!


texts:
My girlfriend has a rather unusual wiring setup in her home with a two way switch at one end of the room, and a three way switch at the other end.

When the two-way switch is in the down position, the three way switch does nothing at all. However, when that switch is in the up position, the three-way switch works as normal.

I have pulled both switches out and at the end of the room with the three way switch I found that it has the standard setup for a three-way; one white, one black, and one traveller. There are no grounds, as the home was built in the 1950's.

At the other end of the room, in the box for the two-way, there are 2 black wires. I am assuming one of them goes to the light, while the other seems to receive power from the three-way switch, because when the breaker is on, and the three-way switch is in the down position, neither black wire is hot, but when the three way switch is in the up position, one black wire becomes hot.

Can anyone help me out by explaining (or providing a wiring diagram of) the most likely way that this is wired?

I realize that without going into the drywall and attic, it could be done multiple ways, but seeing as this is not my home, and she is renting, I cannot go into the drywall. I did try checking the attic, but there is too much of the original insulation in the way to try to get to the light.

Edits for clarity:

1) I will try to get pictures this weekend
2) There are two switches total controlling the light. One is single pole (this is the one I previously called two way), the other is a three way switch.

In the box for the single pole switch are two black wires connected to the switch and two white wires which are connected to nothing. One is capped off and the other is cut off at the entrance to the box.

At the bottom of the three way switch is a twisted pair of wires, one black one white. At the top, is a single black wire.

I previously assumed the single black wire was the traveler but I'm beginning to think it is not.

I will bring a volt meter and electrical tester with me this weekend and provide those details along with the pictures.


texts:
Under my kitchen sink is an ABS pipe going into the drain.

I need to shorten it, because the disposer is moving to the right side of the sink, and this pipe with Y-connector will be in the way. (the edict to move the disposer came from t'wife, so as long as I'm not against code, it has to happen)

What is the best way to attach the ABS to PVC to stay within plumbing code? I'm hearing comments about transition glue not being the best, and that I need a mechanical connection. I just want to do it the correct way.


texts: OK to reposition a 90 degree sweep of Schedule 40 conduit after it's been glued?

texts: I've installed 2" Schedule 40 direct burial pipe from power pole to power pole so that AT&T, Comcast, & Wave aerial cables can be run underground instead.  I've completed the conduit connections and have run pull rope through each.  However, the 90 degree sweep for the middle conduit is not aligned with the power pole (see photo) by a couple of feet.  I'm not sure if I forced this conduit up against the pole and secured it if it would cause stress and possibly break the conduit or cause one of the glued connections to separate.  I'd prefer not to have to realign it by cutting the conduit and installing another connector if I can avoid it since I've already run the pull rope through the length of the conduit.


texts:
Generally, when hanging my christmas lights, I run a line around the gutters on my second floor.  From there, I drop down and put a string across the roof line on the front porch of my house.

This year, I got all new strings of lights.  The problem is that the string from the top of the roof ended in an awkward place in the line (about 2/3 of the way through the line).  So, I could essentially either "double up" a section of the upper gutter, and then run an extension cord down to the lower roof line, or I could run the lights between the 2 points, stringing the 2 sections together.  I chose to run the lights between the two points, but I don't really like the way it looks.

I could just place some electrical tape over the lights that I do not want to see, but I want a better solution.  What I want is to remove the bulbs, and replace them with just some caps which fill the bulb sockets but do not light up.  The problem is, I haven't ever seen anything like that.

Does anyone have any better ideas for customizing the length or placement of bulbs on a christmas light string?


texts: Help with wiring to change three way switches to two single pole

texts: Below are diagrams of the crazy wiring I have for three way switches operating two light fixtures.  I would like to be able to change them from three way switches to two single pole switches each operating the nearest light fixture.  Does the info in the diagrams help me at all to accomplish this?  Thanks in advance for advice and guidance.


texts: How to install/connect Miniature Circuit Breakers ( MCB )

texts:
What's the best way to connect the Miniature Circuit Breakers ?

Is it when the Line is coming downward or upwards ? I am confused as I have seen two different wiring's.

I want to know where I should connect an incoming and outgoing supply ?


texts: I want to remove this bricks and mortar step. I have a brick bolster and hammer. Will that do the job? It looks like it isn't so well "stuck" at the bottom. Should I start there and see if the whole thing comes off or should I try and remove the mortar from between each brick, one at a time?


texts:
I had to add a neutral for a light switch. I was not able to run up the ceiling and tied the new neutral in where the light Is installed in the ceiling. The switch for the light was only a couple of feet away from the breaker panel so I ran a neutral from the switch back to the panel and put it under the same lug as the neutral going to the light.

It’s not in conduit It is cable stapled to the rafters. There is no way to fish a wire from the switch up to the light. Coming down from the light to the switch is the hot wire and then another wire going back to the light. When you flip the switch That second wire becomes hot and turns on the light. I needed a neutral at the switch and since I couldn’t fish a wire up to the light and connect to the neutral there I connected a neutral wire from the switch back to the breaker panel neutral bar Under same lug as the neutral for the light circuit.

Is it OK as in a possible code violation?


texts: How can I check my hot water heater temperature? Isn't 120 degrees cold?

texts:
I'm trying to test the temperature of the hot water coming out of my hot water heater but I'm very confused.

Can I use a meat thermometer or what should I be using?

Also, just to make sure my thermometer is accurate, what should a glass of ice water show?


texts: Should P trap be connected using Fernco coupling?

texts:
In the past, I have connected P traps just by cementing it to the wall stubout but recently have been thinking about portability in case the sink and its drain position changes. I find that, in that case, having an easily replaceable connector would be of advantage and the Fernco (rubber sleeve with a worm gear clamp) came to mind.

Is it okay to use Fernco for a portable P trap connection or should it be done with cement?


texts: I have 2 15 Amp breakers both of them with a load of about 12Amps and they are warm. Is this normal that such a load should warm up the breaker?


texts: GFCI Electrical outlet near outdoor fountain wall - Shutoff switch needed?

texts:
I'm installing an outdoor electrical outlet on the back side of a fountain wall.  Basically it's a 5 foot tall wall that flows water down the front of it, into a catch basin where it is pumped back to the top of the wall.
I thought I have read somewhere that if I plan to run pond pumps off of this new GFCI outlet, then I need to have a clearly labeled electrical shutoff switch near the outlet.
Is this true?  Does code require this?  And if so, can I run my THWN2 wires through the conduit and have it pass through the outlet box without pigtails, go up into a separate switch box where it will connect to the switch, and then back down to the outlet box again?
I would prefer to not have the switch, and just rely on the self-test GFCI outlet for safety/protection.
Like this (apologies for the 3 year old crayon drawing):


texts:
I suspect the home I am living in has used some asbestos in is walls. Asbestos causes a serious lung condition in the long run. How can I tell if asbestos was used? What if it is not on the surface of the walls? If it is removed, how do I know some traces do not stay in the air?

Thanks.


texts: One small patch on wall (white before) not covered by primer or 3 coats of paint

texts: Hoping someone can help- moved in to a new house and decided to paint the living room today (Warm Pewter by Dulux) after testing a few colours. There was one tiny spot before which was light grey on pebble paint (noticed yesterday) so after making the walls good with filler and sanding then priming it was ok- now i have painted it seems to be coming through again like some sort of stain, and unsure what it could be- everywhere else is fine. When touched after 1st and second coat this did not seem wet , but then i scratcher at it and paint came off! (not sure if worth a mention but this is near my kitchen ) wall - could it be some sort of weird leak, has anyone seen this issue before? (Looked briefly behind the washing machine and was all dry)


texts: How important is the "wet edge" when painting vinyl siding?

texts:
I am going to paint my vinyl siding (to change the color).  Apparently I'm supposed to go all the way across row by row, or a couple rows at a time.  But what if I get interrupted?  Is it okay to complete several rows and then come back to continue painting later on, after the first part has dried?

Also, for the first of the two coats, may I complete a whole section (top to bottom) before going on to the next section, since the second coat will hopefully cover up any vertical lines I might have created?


texts:
I have a shower that's leaking from the corner. Basically, as can be seen from the picture, it falls through into the crack and then the water goes behind tiles and comes out the floor right outside the shower cubicle.

The house is 8 years old and I've just bought it. It doesn't look like there's any damage I can see from inspecting the wall. Should I just seal up the hole with silicone sealant? Do I need to somehow dry the inside behind the tiles?

Picture of bathroom
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xW0ckLSo4b0QXIdUqG6KpbL8GH0tSIom/view?usp=drivesdk


texts:
I have water seeping around the shower and onto the floor. I removed the old caulking and resealed the inside and outside with a fast dry 30 minute sealer. 10 days later, it is still leaking and not sure what else to do.
Do we only seal the outside? or inside too? Some say only the outside and not the inside? What am I doing wrong? and what would be your recommendation . Thank you

**tried sending a picture but it will not upload


texts:
I have a leak in a toilet drain pipe that you can see below.

The horizontal brown line is where the leak is and it was caused by a metal support strap that was wrapped around the pipe.

Is patching the pipe with epoxy a possible long term solution?  Or should the pipe be replaced?

I definitely don't want to open up the ceiling again...


texts: Can I use a 70 amp panel for a 30 amp service feed?

texts: I am running a subpanel off of a 30 amp breaker, I need to run a smaller subpanel off of that. Can I use a 70 amp rated panel for my 30 amp service feed, so that I will have room in the panel to put in a 20 amp double pole breaker?


texts: Need standard name for short depth drawers

texts:
I'm looking for a set of drawers for use in my bathroom for storage.
I'm looking for a set or modular range that has a small depth length in dimension. In other words the distance between the front and rear of the drawer is small, of maximum length 18cm.
The reason is that I want to put the drawers on a step-like tiled surface on one side of the room that is of depth of about 18cm.
I'm having difficulty telling the search engine that I don't want "deep" depth drawers. Some online shops do provide a filter for depth length, but not all. So I wondered if there was a standard naming convention for small length depths that I could use with general search engines.
Thank you.


texts:
I added an exterior TV antenna and a grounding rod next to it with a 6 gauge copper wire going to both the antenna mast and the ground on the coax coming from the antenna.   It is about 15 feet from our electrical panel and after reading a bit more I have found that I need to bond the two rods together with a 6 gauge wire.  The grounding rod for the house is inside a garage wall with a stucco exterior.

Can the wire for connecting the two grounding rods enter the attic under the eves and cross a portion of the attic and go down an interior wall?

What I would like to do is clamp the new wire to the wire that goes from the coax to the new ground rod and run it into the attic and down the inside of the garage wall, cut an access point into the wall where the house ground wire comes up to the breaker box and clamp it to that wire.  Is that an acceptable way to do it?


texts: running low voltage wire from outside to inside

texts:
I have low voltage wire under my deck.  I would like to drill a small hole (1/4 in or less) and feed the cable through the deck ledger board and the house's rim joist so that I can keep the transformer inside (the basement which is unfinished).  I would then fill the hole with silicon to keep water and bugs out.

Is this an absurd idea?  Is there a better way to do it?


texts: What type of paint to recoat a ceramic tile hearth?

texts:
The hearth in front of my newly retiled fireplace (which was described in a DIY blog) needs repainting to complete the job.

The hearth is made up of 6x6 ceramic tiles that have a well adhered coat of paint (or more likely several coats) over both the tiles and the grout. The surface is satin and has only a few small areas that have been worn through. There is no flaking.

I plan to wire brush any loose paint, sand lightly and wipe clean.

The Question: What type of paint is best to stand up to the scuffing of shoes, logs and fireplace tools, and to withstand a bit of heat (near the firebox edge) and the possible occasional flying cinder?


texts: How much shear load can rebar withstand?

texts:
I'm thinking of integrating rebar into a short grape trellis as horizontal supports for the vines to climb on. Is there anywhere I can get the deflection/load information for rebar spans? As currently planned the spans will be 10ft and the rebar I have access to is 1/2in. Will that diameter rebar span 10ft under some load without serious/fatal deflection?

(I realize this isn't the intended use of rebar, but It seemed like a potential alternative to horizontal beams, and its a little more vine friendly)


texts:
My touch lamp tipped over while it was on, the bulb went out.

Ever since my touch lamp will just stay ON when it's plugged in, the touch feature no longer works.

I know I can replace the touch lighting control, but I was thinking instead of doing that, is it possible to add just a inline switch?

Without removing the touch lighting control and just adding a switch will the lamp still work?


texts:
In the fall I made a simple front stoop.  It is 24 inches by 48 inches.  That size feels just right.  It has some brick-shaped things from Home Depot as the under layer, and then the top layer is eight one-foot-square pavers also from Home Depot.  I stuck everything together with "landscape glue" using a caulking gun.  It was late fall and maybe a little too cold, and now a couple of the square pavers are loose.  I was about to re-attach the loose ones with either the same type of landscape glue or with some quick set mortar (I have some power left over from another project).  But I started to think that maybe two bluestone treads would look better, similar to this:

which I got from a This Old House video.

If I do that, should the two treads (each measuring one foot by four feet) be butted against each other, or should I leave half an inch between, and then put some mortar in between with a "grout bag"?

Also, about the mortar for the treads.  In the video, here's how they stuck the treads on: start with regular mortar, pretty thick.  Then scratch X's in that mortar.  Then add water to some mortar to make a slurry and put some of that on top of the regular mortar layer.  I guess that's to make it easier to get the big heavy tread nice and level.  Is there any simplification possible?


texts: Is it possible to hook up a hose to my well pump?

texts:
I have a well pump that goes and pull water from an aquifer. I'd like to hook up a hose to it and water some plants that my sprinkler system cannot reach very well. Is it possible to do this?

Pictures of my well pump:

The lever on towards the back controls lawn sprinklers and the one closer to me controls the back lawn sprinklers.


texts:
As a new goal, I am looking to pick up DIY projects around my house. I am new to DIY projects and am trying to make our food pantry look better. There are 1/10th to 1/4th in gaps between the shelves and the wall. Unsure of what to do, I just decided to buy Loctite Polyseamseal All Purpose Caulk.

After watching a few caulking videos, I cut the caulk tip at 45' angle, and starting using a razor blade to 'even out' the caulk. But then switched to a wet rag to smooth, but i'm just not satisfied with the results. My current system always ends up leaving a little 'U' in the caulk (see picture) where the edges are higher then the middle.

My questions are:

1) Is caulking the correct approach to fixing the gaps? Why/Why not?

2) If so, is there a proper way to caulk the gaps? I'm sure just like most things it's an art form... maybe I just need practice.

3) Is there a general of when to use caulk? Is there alternatives?

My goal from this is to fix the gaps in in the pantry AND hopefully next time be able to identify what needs to be done without asking any questions :) Thanks


texts: My vacuum(s) cannot be pushed on my newly installed carpet

texts: We just had Innovia carpet (Carpet One) installed and when my wife tried to vacuum she could not push the vacuum over the carpet, seemed to suck up into the vacuum.  This was a Shark.  She then tried to use an old, height adjustable Hoover and had the same result.  A friend of mine, who used to install carpet, said it may not have been stretched properly.  Is this true?


texts: How cold does it need to be to damage hoses?

texts:
I have a water hose that I keep hooked up all the time. It's inconvenient to disconnect and drain the hose to protect it from freezing. My plan is to watch the weather forecast and only disconnect if necessary because it will be cold.

How cold does it have to get to freeze the water and damage the hose?


texts: Need to add traction to existing polished concrete surface

texts:
My front porch is polished concrete, and gets slippery in the rain.  What is the best way to add grip/traction to an existing concrete walkway?

More info:  My front porch is part of the house slab, so it's the full width of the house, and extends about 4 feet from the house.  The roof also covers this porch, however rain splashing off nearby bushes always means that the concrete walkway is dangerously slippery in any wet weather.


texts: Patch hole in cement slab when ground below is excavated

texts:
I removed a shower stall and there was a hole for the plumbing as expected but once I got a good look the entire area below the cement slab is open.  I want to fill the whole as the bathroom is being converted into a mud room.  I was assuming I would just have to get a bag or two of gravel and/or sand and fill the hole and then add 3-4" of concrete but since everything is open underneath I am not sure how to fill the hole now.  Seems weird it is all open underneath.  Any tips would be appreciated.

Hole where shower was.

Picture underneath showing some more pipes.

Another look at another direction.


texts: Ceiling fan only runs when bare used as hot

texts:
So I'm trying to wire up my new ceiling fan. I connected the black and blue to the black from ceiling and the white to white and the green from the braces to the bare wire.

However, nothing came on.

I got bored and curious so I connected the blue wire to the bare wire and when I flipped on my breakers, everything worked. That is except the pull chain for the light turns off both the light and fan. And the pull chain for the fan slows the rotation and dims the light.

I know this isn't safe, and I have no intentions of keeping it this way.

My question is do I have faulty wiring in my house, or is the fan faulty?


texts: Can you identify the model of this faucet?

texts: I know the make is American Standard.  It has a spray handle, and is 5 years old or less.  I need to buy O-rings for it, and want to be sure I'm getting the right ones.


texts: How to measure Voltage without disturbing the circuit?

texts:
I have an old alarm system which I'm trying to modernize. We don't use it for anything at the moment. My desire it to hook it to a Spark Particle that I have and use it to monitor some of the door sensors already installed.

My idea was to measure the voltage across the two wires that come and go from the panel to the door sensor.

Below shows the circuit:

• The unknowns: what are terminals A and B actually connected to, and what is actually going on within the door sensor (it's clearly some sort of switch)

• A is the screw terminal on the panel, and it is roughly = ground

• B is +5 V when all wiring is intact and the door is closed, and B is +10 V when 1) the door is open OR 2) either sensor wire is disconnected from either terminal.

So here is my dilemma: to use the spark/arduino/chip I can only measure voltages between 0-3.3V. My attempt was to connect a voltage divider by connecting 3 resistors in series from A to B. But using my multimeter after doing that gave me all sorts of weird readings. It screwed up the board til I pulled the power and reset it. So I think that's not an option.

How can I connect to the terminals so that I can reliably measure the voltage, while also dropping the voltage to the 0-3 range? (Is there a better way to connect up a divider?)

EDIT: I think this circuit is probably more likely correct. But still not sure how to measure the voltages without changing them.


texts: How to anchor railings into concrete correctly

texts:
Where I live the most popular way to anchor railings or fence into concrete is a method that I cannot find any reference about it on the web.
A 7mm hole is drilled into concrete and then a 8mm steel rebar without any coating is inserted into the hole with a hammer. Then the railing is welded on site with the rebar.This always works no failures.
The other less common way that is not preferred due to being hard to do and more expensive is with bolts with a flange.
Which way should I prefer for anchoring a long railing?


texts: Can I connect a stabilizer to an inverter?

texts:
At my place the voltage in winter is around 140-160V where normally it should be above 200V.
Now I have an inverter at home. The inverter during power shut down turns to batteries and supply 230V of power. But when the mains are on (160V) the inverter gives the output of same 160V as the mains.
Now I have a question. Can I connect a stabilizer on my inverter so that a continuous voltage of 230V can be supplied to my TV and PS3 and other speakers?

During mains on:
Mains(160V) > inverter (160V) > stabilizer > 230V

During mains off:
Mains(0V) > inverter (230V) > stabilizer (230V)

Will this work or damage the inverter?
Inverter is around 850 VA or KVA something.

I'm from Srinagar, india


texts: Electrical outlets show good but not working

texts:
Just moved into home. None of the master bedroom outlets are working. Same breaker. I tested all four outlets via 3 pronged tester and all show as correct and working. Also tested voltage via multimeter and showing around 123v.

When I plug in a lamp I get dim light versus same lamp in other rooms. And a cell phone plugged unto charger keeps going from off to charging over and over. On off on off and so on at a steady pace. The whole breaker panel was changed/updated right before we moved in.

Scratching my head on this.


texts: How would I go about installing a prehung door in this opening?

texts:
I've got an actual opening of 35.5" in an opening between my basement and garage. I'd like to install a prehung door (first time), and am a bit confused about the width necessary for framing.

My door opening:

From what I've read I want at least 2" between the prehung door width and my rough opening -- which I don't have yet. It sounds like this limits me to either a 32" prehung (actual 33.5") or a 30" (actual 31.5").

If I went the 30" route, that would leave me 2" on each side for framing the rough opening which seems like it would leave me with the most play and be able to do something like a 2x6 (1.5") on each side, leaving me with 1/2" gap for rough opening and making the door square.

However, I'd prefer to use a wider 32" door (because why not?), but I'm not sure how to approach the framing:

The opening minus the size of the prehung door would leave me with 2" for both sides with no framing. I'm pretty sure I need to frame at least the hinge side which would be possible with a 2x6 (1.5") leaving 1/2" for making square on either side.

Is it okay to only frame one side? If not, would a 1x6 (3/4" width) be a thick enough board for framing and would the 1/4" gap rough opening be enough?


texts: I am in the process of finishing my bonus room (attic space above the garage). There are soffit vents and a ridge vent. If I put insulation in between the rafters before I drywall the ceiling, will that adversely affect the ventilation? I am also replacing the soffit in that area. Do I still need the soffit vents with the insulation in place? Thanks, Jim