texts: Fitting a glass board with glue or by making holes?

texts:
I want to have a glass board on my wall. It is way too cheaper to buy a piece of etched glass from the local shop and fix it to the wall than buying ready-made glass boards from online stores. My  requirement is 5.5 feet × 3.5 feet borderless. I went to a local shop for the glass and other fittings. They suggested at least 6 mm thick glass and gave me two fitting options.

Make 6 holes in the wall and in the glass. Then screw the glass through the holes.
Don't make any holes in the glass. Only make holes in the wall and drill some screws in the wall only. Then glue the glass with those screws.

Now which one is safer ? How stable and reliable these glues are ? Will making holes make the glass crack after few years ?

Edit
I'll not need to glue or make the holes by myself. The glass shop will send someone to my place to do the fittings. And they will not charge me if something breaks at the time of fittings. I need to choose what type of fittings I want.


texts: What is this single pole switch to empty ceiling box blows breaker when switched on

texts:
I would appreciate  some help thinking through what are the possible problems in the following situation?

A newly wired circuit from breaker box ( 20 amp 12 AWG wire) to front of the house (longest run in house) has a set of outlets, and at the end of the run a three gang switch box with 3 single pole switches for 20amp. One switch works an outside light, the second switch a switched outlet, the third switch a ceiling fan yet to be installed. The ceiling box is empty of a fixture and is covered.  Inside that ceiling box is a green ground screw with the ground wire attached, and the capped off white and black wire. All looks properly sound. The wires in the 3 gang switch box also look properly and neatly wired.  All the switches and wiring are new.

Problem:  When all the outlets on the circuit are not in use, and all three single pole switches in the 3 gang box at the end of the run are switched off, if someone turns on the single pole switch to the empty ceiling fan box the circuit blows. If that switch is off and anything else on the run is used, whether it be one of the outlets, outside light, switched outlet, or some combination of them, the circuit works fine.  Even when the switch to the empty fan box had been switched on in the past, the circuit continued to work fine.  Then one day the switch to the empty fan box was switched on and blew the circuit. It is only when that switch is turned on that the circuit breaker switches off. This happens even when nothing else is running on the circuit and the only thing done is to switch on that switch to the empty ceiling fan box.  Since the room has not been finished yet, one can see that no screw, drywall or otherwise, has damaged the wire. Further upstream cabinets were installed, but the wires in the wall at the location were protected from damage with plates at every stud and any damage would have theoretically affected all the down stream outlets, not just this one switch run.

I suppose it possible that the switch, although new, could need to be replaced, and the new wire between the fan to the switch may also have to be replaced if no other explanation can be found.


texts: Breaker box location in same room as water heater, washer and dryer

texts: We are remodeling and need to know if the breaker box, hot water heater, washer and dryer can be in the same small room


texts: How can I make swinging barn doors weather tight?

texts:
Looking to turn a small barn-type structure into a climate controlled woodshop. The building itself is block and the doors are about 4x10' (w/h) oak pivoting double doors like a shed would have.
I want to keep these doors (instead of investing in an expensive rollup, etc.) but is there a good way to make them more airtight? I plan to try to keep the shop temp/humidity on a thermostat.


texts: I assume this is some USA wiring system, am I right?


texts: Placing a roof terrace on XPS insulation

texts:
I have a roof terrace on a flat roof, which I'm planning to take apart to clean the boards themselves and the roof underneath, which is currently full of moss and other junk preventing rainwater from running off. In a builders report it was recommended that the roof be insulated on the outside to prevent the wood from rotting due to condensation coming off the cold roof.

Since the terrace is coming off anyway I figured I'd place some XPS insulation on the roof before putting the terrace back on. As far as I can tell, you are supposed to put the terrace right on top of the XPS tiles, but are those things really strong enough to carry the load of a terrace + furniture + several people? I'm kind of hesitant of putting all that stuff on a block of foam.

The terrace, by the way, consists of boards screwed to three perpendicular beams which rest on some rubber tiles, on the bitumen. So technically the entire load would be upon the areas directly beneath those rubber tiles.


texts: Will stacking 2 junction boxes make inspector Happy?

texts:
I had to relocate a 2 switch box to a new wall ( new location). I didn't notice that insulation of two existing cables are damaged. Damn!
so I put a electric tape around the cable in damaged area. But after went through some posts, inspector may not going to like this. Also it depends upon inspector. Also another thing I noticed wires are shorter now for switch at new location.
I think junction box is good idea here, but I won't be able place a two gang box the old location  due to limited space. Here the old location doesn't mean exact location of switch. I meant was which side of wall it was placed initially.
Am I ending up here with stacking two single gang box at the old/existing location ?
Its not going look good after drywall.
Please help here.

Thanks


texts: Would towels under floorboards (for sound proofing) be a fire risk?

texts:
I saw a video on YouTube that suggests that layers of towels are actually the best sound insulation.
I'm thinking about putting folded towels in between the joists under the floorboards on the first floor, so that sound from the room above does not travel to the room below.
Do you think this would increase the fire risk to an unacceptable level?
EDIT - Some extra details: the towels will be placed on top of the plasterboard ceiling. The room is 12 feet by 12 feet. The room above is a bedroom. The room below is a bedroom.


texts: Dishwasher - 3/8 inch 90° elbow leaks. How do I tighten it without overtighting it and it is pointing down?

texts:
I've installed a new dishwasher, but the 3/8 inch 90° elbow leaks.
How do I tighten it without overtightening it and it is pointing down?
I put two wraps of teflon tape and hand tightened it, and tightened with a wrench about 3/4 turn.
Thanks for any advice or tips.


texts:
The attached picture shows the valve on a hot water radiator that leaks and the arrow points to where it leaks. It drips about one drop a minute.

It feels like a quarter turn on that nut might fix the leak, but is that dangerous? Would I be risking making the leak worse?

Any other suggestions for stopping the leak?


texts: What are my refinishing options for a concrete patio?

texts: I have an external concrete patio, about 3 years old.  I'm wondering if there are any finishing or refinishing options to make it look a little better than just boring 'ole concrete.


texts: How Safe is this 5-way ceiling lighting DIY install

texts:
I've installed a 5-way ceiling light in a relatives house yesterday and whilst I've been more than careful in all it's prepartion and install, and being over caustious (without big paranoid!) I'm a little concerned and would like some feedback on the job in question.

My primary concern here regarding safety is:

Is the 10amp chocbloc sufficient for the load of 5* 42w halogen lights?

Is the 'manual' twist of 5*neutral 'blue' cabling from each arm safe twisted into a single 10amp chocblok connector?

Can I decrease the risk by double insulating say the single Brown arm    combine to live supply?

Here is what I did. The light in question is very similar in model (Wilko 5 Arm Chandelier Metal Ceiling Light Fitting Cream) to this UK light.

After reading the instructions thoroughly, prep the lighting unit, turning off power, I removed the previous rose etc and prepared the cable wires. All ok.

The lighting unit instructions stated that the neutral (black) 'blue' needed to be twisted together which I did and I cut a chocbloc down to joined 4-units (chocbloc rated at 10amps), and carefully binded/twisted them in, tightened them in with the said screws. I decided to sequence the cables as follows: looking right to left: bloc #1 G/Y earth, #2 Black (marked Red) live switch, #3 left empty, #4 live loop. I purposely kept the live supply to twisted Brown arm cables separate and to the left of the chocbloc (it is insulated with black tape). At this moment in time, I'm remember ting this from memory, I'm to double check this later today and will emend the text here.

My concern is the (if any) risk overtime to fire etc (not that it's left on for hours, it's a landing light. I think I've been over cautious, but would like an opinion.

edit: increase to decrease, typo on my part (-:


texts: How to connect garbage disposal when drain is too short

texts:
I removed the old garbage disposal and only have to hook up the drain on the new one, but it is acting like it is too short. Here is the before photo:

And here is the new one (if you look closely, there is a gap between the drain and the trap and I'm just not sure what to do. All the instructions I've found so far just say, 'connect it' and that's just not enough details for my first plumbing job. :) I'd really appreciate some newbie hand-holding on this one!


texts: Water dripping from the ceiling over a humidifier

texts: Humidity in my house right now 13%, which is normal during winter. I have cathedral ceilings with no attic. It is an older, very large, 100% wood house, log cabin style. I ran 1 gallon humidifier for a week and now have water dripping exactly above the  humidifier. It drips like one drop every 10 min at night and more often during day time. It is 21F outside. The roofer had said the roof is fine.  Is it because of the humidifier? But the house is huge and I would think the moisture would spread around the house, not accumulate somewhere. The distance between the floor and the ceiling is also substantial. What is happening, please help.


texts: Is it safe for me to use expired acrylic paint on canvas? if not is there a DIY on how to rid the mold or whatever is causing the sour smell in the paint? (i really dont want to spend $30 on more gold,silver,and copper paints.)


texts: How do I fix a good size gouge in my faux wood vinyl floor?

texts: We have faux wood laminant through out our kitchen.We had to move the refridgerator and when doing so we gouged(with a crease) the flooring.We are trying to sell the house and would like to try to repair it as easily and inexpensively as possible.I heard that you can take a blow dryer to it to smooth it out,is this true?


texts:
I have a switch that controls the top and bottom of an outlet.  I would like to make the outlet hot all the time.  Additionally I would like to install a light fixture, convert the existing single switch to a 3 way and install a new 3 way switch on a different wall.  @tester101 explained to me how to do something similar yesterday, but without the 3 way switches.  What is the best/easiest way to accomplish this?
EDIT
Switch

Back of the switch

Outlet
Back of outlet


texts: Switched receptacle to fully powered receptacle withuot losing light function

texts: I have a bathroom receptacle that is controlled by the light switch. How do i PROPERLY separate the switch from the receptacle so as the light still works from the switch but the receptacle stays fully powered instead of shutting off when the lights go off


texts: How can I make outlet wall plates mount flush after removing wood paneling?

texts: I recently removed some old wood panelling in my basement that was up against drywall. I refinished the walls and painted but now the outlet covers don't mount flush against the wall anymore because they were originally installed when the walls had the extra thickness of the wood panelling. What can I do about this?


texts: Safe to put old white paper-backed fiberglass insulation on metal ductwork?

texts:
We live in a very old house with an unfinished basement. The heat for the entire main floor is from a furnace in that basement that blows through the square style ductwork to vents placed in each room on the main floor. These ducts have no insulation on them at all, and get quite warm to the touch near the furnace itself, but decay with distance (obviously). Right now our water heater is wrapped with probably pretty old insulation - I don't see any labels on it, but it's the yellow style with a white paper backing. It's held to the water heater with duct tape. We have a water heater insulation tube recently purchased, and are wondering if we could repurpose the fiberglass insulation on the ductwork.

The two main concerns we have come up with are:

Overheating the insulation --> starting a fire.
The insulation somehow makes its way into the duct through some tiny crack (currently we have the fancy duct tape for heating vents around all the cracks, but this is likely imperfect) and gets into our air.

We think these are both unlikely but wanted to ask. Having trouble finding this exact question on the internet. We know this is not an optimal solution, but it's available now and free, so our main concern is safety. Can we get away with this, or is it critical to purchase the foil-backed insulation for use with duct work for heat?

If it matters, these ducts only connect to the furnance; there isn't any air conditioning set up in this house, which was built in the early 1800s (for sure before 1830).

Thanks!!!


texts: Extending a narrow high kitchen table with lateral side-wings

texts:
We have a narrow raised kitchen table (with bar stools):

I would like to build a simple extension for it so that more people fit around the table. Something like this (or this) would be ideal, but since I have limited skills (and time), I just tried to improvise something simple.

What I had in mind was to buy two appropriately-sized pieces of wood (about half the current length of the table) and affix them as "side-wings", one on each lateral side towards the leg-end, using hinges. These extensions would then hang vertically in the regular configuration when the base table suffices; and be raised horizontally when the table needs to be extended. Since the addition would be symmetric, I reckoned that the central support foot (pictured) would still be enough, as long as each of the wings has its own support from underneath.

The plan is simple enough, but aside from doing the measurements and buying the two pieces of wood (easy), I have no idea how to start:
- how do I choose the type of hinge, and how do I mount it on each piece of wood, as well as on the existing table!
- what kind of support would each wing need to stay upright, that is itself foldable when the wing is folded downwards?

I am also open to other suggestions for how to extend this table side-ways, in case the hinged&supported lateral wings solution does not seem optimal. I am grateful in advance for any suggestions!


texts: Wood treatment for sauna exterior, safe if inhaled in small quantities?

texts:
Are there any special considerations in treating the outside of a wooden sauna?
My concern is that a small, but nonzero amount of any treatment used will seep inside the sauna, as some water seeps between the staves during heavy rain. There it could evaporate when the sauna is hot, and people would end up breathing it in. Hopefully the potential for this is reduced as (due to felt roofing) seepage only enters the lower half of the sauna which is actually not so hot.
I was considering e.g. cuprinol ultimate garden wood preserver as it protects from water and UV, it does contain a biocide to protect rot but unlike e.g. Osmo oil, is classed as low-VOC.
Is that safe?
(PS I would create a new tag wood-treatment if I had enough rep)


texts: No ground wire connected to the 3-way switch

texts:
I am no expert in electrical stuff as i have never done it before. We recently moved into a new house and i don't really like the look of the old switches. I was looking around them and i noticed the light switches don't have a grounding wire attached to the switch itself. BUT there is a wire (seems to be grounding) that is attached to the metal box itself near the back.

is it safe to just replace the switch and leave the grounding screw empty in this case?

Random info, the sockets seem to be grounded properly with a wire. It's just the switches that are not.


texts: Current 3 way switch setup - how do I add a string of lights to switch with power

texts:
This is my current setup, I need to add a string of 3 more lights to the first switch where the power arrives at.

Do I need a three-way wire instead of the standard electric wire to add those 3 other lights?


texts: Single Ground Wire Run Under Floor Joists

texts:
I'm in the process of finishing my basement and, aside from a ground wire that was run under the floor joists, I have a fairly clear path for drywalling the ceiling along the floor joists. I have contacted the builder and they are refusing to address the issue. I've done some research on the subject and I've found other answers on this site pertaining to NEC codes for hanging wire to floor joists, but I believe the code doesn't specifically address my situation because the ground wire is a single 2 AWG conductor, while the NEC code (from the sections I've read) specifically call out two 6 AWG and three 8 AWG conductors. I've tried to find any additional information on this subject, which might be directly relevant to my case, but I haven't been able to locate anything. Is there a specific section of the NEC that addresses this case? Is a single conductor 2 AWG run under the floor joists up to code? If this is to code, how would you recommend I hang the drywall?
As a side note, I am not a contractor and I'm essentially trying to learn framing and drywalling by watching YouTube videos, so it's not that I'm trying to be a pain, but having the cable run through the joists (rather than under) would make my life significantly easier.

National Electrical Code 2011
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 334 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS
II. Installation
334.15 Exposed Work.
(C) In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces. Where cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and
crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller
than two 6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges
of the joists. Smaller cables shall be run either through bored holes
in joists or on running boards. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable installed
on the wall of an unfinished basement shall be permitted to be
installed in a listed conduit or tubing or shall be protected in
accordance with 300.4. Conduit or tubing shall be provided with a
suitable insulating bushing or adapter at the point the cable enters
the raceway. The sheath of the nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall extend
through the conduit or tubing and into the outlet or device box not
less than 6 mm (¼ in.). The cable shall be secured within 300 mm (12
in.) of the point where the cable enters the conduit or tubing. Metal
conduit, tubing, and metal outlet boxes shall be connected to an
equipment grounding conductor complying with the provisions of 250.86
and 250.148.

Edit: Added image


texts: Should I be concerned about water spilling behind tile wall?

texts: I recently attempted to replace a single handle shower valve (cartridge and all). During removal of the assembly, there was water remaining in the pipes after I had shut off the main. The water leaked out and fell down behind the tile wall of the shower. Should I be concerned about a one-time water spill behind the tile? Is there anyway I can clean it up? The only access is the approximately 6" hole cut in the tile for the valve access.


texts: GFCI 20 amp breaker pops....regular plug works

texts:
I have a dedicated 20 amp breaker in the panel box to a large 4 person whirlpool tub in my bathhroom.  I thought it would be great until I realized it puts out hundreds of gallons into my septic each time I use it. Therefore it sits pretty with no use over last 20 years...lol It works. ... but not worth blowing my septic field. So , I am remodeling my hall bath and bought a single 5 foot whirlpool tub that's manageable with my septic. I tore out old tub and it has a common wall with my large whirlpool tub. So, I piggy backed into the single 20 amp line as I wont use both tubs at same time ever. The new electric socket works with regular plug and no problems.  However, I figured electrical code probably calls for a GFCI socket since it's near water. So I sprung for a 20 amp GFCI socket and it trips when I plug anything in to test it. Wondering why it would trip and the regular socket works no problem?
Thanks,
Joules


texts: How can I prevent damage to fire sprinkler heads in workshop?

texts:
My new condo has a standard heat-activated fire sprinkler system.  In the living areas the sprinkler heads are completely recessed into the ceiling but unfortunately in the garage, which I also plan to use as a wood shop, they are only partly recessed.  Even worse, several of the sprinkler heads in the garage are in places where it will be very easy to bump (messy) or even walk into (messy AND painful).   For example, there are sprinkler heads mounted underneath the top half of an interior stairwell which sticks out into the garage space.

Obviously I cannot disable the sprinkler heads.  What are the best strategies for protecting them?


texts:
I thoroughly scraped and re-grouted my shower and applied some sealer (standard unsanded grout and Impregnator 511 sealer), but I am worried I didn't mix/stir the sealer enough or at all (my memory/recall is really sketchy nowadays).  I am worried because I think some of the grout might be starting to erode or crumble away under squeegee action (this is about 2 weeks later).  Grout was allowed to cure for ~48 hours before applying sealer, and sealer was allowed to cure for another ~48 hours.

So...in a worst-case scenario where sealer was completely ineffective (i.e. grout is effectively unsealed) and I have been dousing the grout with water for a week or so: 1) is the potential wearing away of the grout likely in this amount of time? and 2) is re-sealing the grout after letting it dry out for several days an option regarding fixing the potential issue, or will re-grouting be required?


texts: Where can I find a temperature sensor that tweets?

texts:
I'd like to hook up temperature sensors in my house to remotely monitor pipes during winter.  Ideally, I'd like the sensors to upload information via wireless, e.g. in the form of a Tweet or an email.

Does anyone have any experience in this or pointers about how to get started?

I am considering using a Raspberry Pi as the control unit, but haven't made any decisions beyond that. Really just seeking any better informed opinions out there.


texts: Why would a drinking water dispenser on a sink have drainage lines?

texts:
I recently bought a house and have a slight leak under my kitchen sink.  Was trying to figure out where it was coming from this morning so I could fix it, when I found something that makes no sense to me.

There is a filtered water dispenser on sink, on the right  which has two drainage lines coming out of it underneath  that feed into the drainage pipe from the dishwasher

I'm really confused by this. I don't understand why it would need one drainage line, let alone two.  What am I missing here?


texts: How to protect new car from garage scuffs

texts:
The entrance to my garage faces the side of my house and my driveway is narrow.  So when I pull in I have to turn 90 degrees.  With my old Jeep I have brushed the front outside corner bumper against the garage wall resulting in paint damage to the car and wall. I've also clipped the inside with the same result. The only safe way is to pull in a bit, back up, straighten out, and then pull in. Which is annoying.  Now I have a new Jeep, which is larger and I really don't want to damage it.

I'm wondering if anyone has:

An idea for something I could use for guidance - so I know I'm not cutting it too tight or too wide
Or something I could put on the wall that the car would slide against so it doesn't damage the paint (as much)

Greatly appreciated!


texts: Installed Ceiling Fan With a Remote And Think I Made a Mistake

texts:
I installed a Hunter ceiling fan with a remote control receiver about a week ago.  During installation it said to connect grounds to grounds, blacks to blacks, whites to whites, etc. which I did.  I am sure the wiring I did between the fan, receiver and ceiling box were correct (with one exception, see below).

The problem is that the remote control receiver has TWO white wires on it, but the manual only mentioned one (and I checked the manual 3-4 times to see if it mentioned that second white wire).  I went ahead and connected both white wires on the receiver to the white in the ceiling and the white on the fan (making 4 whites in the wire nut).

Anyway, the fan works perfectly.  However, this 2nd white wire bothered me, so I did some googling around and realized that that extra white wire (on the bottom of the receiver) is the damned ANTENNA wire for the remote control.  But now I have it connected to the white neutrals on the fan and ceiling box.  Is this a danger?  Should I take the fan down and disconnect that wire from the neutral circuit?  As I said, the fan works fine and I've had no issues with it or the remote.

Why Hunter made the antenna wire WHITE is beyond me.  They don't even mention what this wire is in the manual.  I didn't realize we still used external antennas on devices such as this in 2018.  If they're going to use external antennas, they should do 2 things:

Make the antenna wire an off color like purple or pink or something (a non-electrician color).
Clearly mark in the manual what the freaking wire DOES and how it should NOT be spliced together with other wires.

The wire is stranded like it WANTS to be connected to a wire nut.  It is even pre-stripped on the end.

In any case, what should I do?


texts: Water always coming out of my perimeter drain around my house

texts:
I have a brand new energy efficient home that was built in 2019 as a part of a new development and of course it has a perimeter drain system with a pipe coming out to the edge of the street.

I just noticed that water never stops coming out of my perimeter drain. All the new houses around me does not have that issue. My house is the only one with water constantly coming out and the builder said there's no issue and in fact it's a good thing that water is always coming out as it's a sign the system is working great.

I'm not convinced since no other houses have the water coming out like mine.
Also when the propane company comes to fill my underground propane tank, they told me the water around the opening is higher than usual.

What could be the issue and how to fix it? My house still within the 1 year warranty so i want to fix any potential problem.

Thank you in advance


texts: How should I mend the plastic sheeting behind my drywall?

texts:
My house was built around 2000, and seems to have plastic sheeting behind the drywall (I'm unsure what thickness plastic was used and what type of plastic; is there some sort of standard?)

My house just recently flooded, and they removed the bottom 2 feet of drywall + insulation + plastic sheeting (which seems strange, given that their concern was that humidity would get to the insulation, which is what the plastic sheeting is meant to prevent).

What is the correct approach to get the bottom 2 feet of drywall re-installed? Should plastic sheeting be used for the bottom 2 feet? Is it OK that there will be a gap between the old plastic sheeting and the new one?

Additionally, the walls in our basement were completely ripped out, so I'm not sure what was there; should plastic sheeting be used behind the dryall in the basement?

(I am in Colorado; we have frigid cold, dry winters)


texts:
I'm a new to doing home improvement stuff and I've been doing okay electrical stuff for the house so far but today I ran into an issue out of my skillset while wiring up the front lights on the outside of the garage.

I installed one, flipped the breaker and saw it was working. Turned it off and installed the second one, but I had no power to either light. Took down the second light & noticed the black wires slipped out of the wire nut. I rewired connection on both but still no power.

Since then these are the things I have tried:

Reset the all the GFCIs in the house

one in Garage
one in kitchen
both bathrooms

Reset the breaker at the box for the garage.

I honestly don't know what I am missing. I feel like it's a GFCI type deal, but there's only one outside and its in the garage. I heard the Fridge outside reset with it when I checked it.

Is there something I am missing on why I am not getting power outside anymore?


texts: Accidentally Touching One Lead Of A Multimeter While Other Is In Electrical Outlet

texts:
If I have a multimeter, and I put one lead in the hot slot of an electrical outlet, will accidentally touching the other lead complete a circuit and electrocute me?

Likewise, if instead I put one lead in the neutral slot of an electrical outlet, will accidentally touching the other lead complete a circuit and electrocute me?


texts: Should I put a surge protector on a washer or dryer?

texts: I think the question title says it all, but is there a reason that I should or should not put a surge protector on my washer or dryer? Growing up, I don't recall ever seeing them in my parents' house nor at laundromats. But given that this is a several hundred dollar appliance, I'm not sure why these aren't protected by a surge protector.


texts: Computer Monitor vibrates rapidly, electrical equipment stabilizer

texts:
I bought a Computer Dell Monitor E2020. The monitor seems to shake a lot, a simple tap, or small shake will cause it vibrates greatly. It vibrates more side to side like a pendulum when typing. I know its not the desk, since we got multiple new ones and, and tested other monitors. How can we resolve this issue? Are there any weights/material we can paste to electrical equipment to make it more stable? Holding it down, seems to alleviate the issue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=089hYDWwjlA
https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-20-monitor-e2020h/apd/210-aunb/monitors-monitor-accessories


texts: What are good cleaners to use on pruning shears?

texts:
I'm new to the realm of shrubbery trimming, though have gotten some good results already.

Now, however, I need to clean my pruning shears so they don't rust / get sticky.

What are good cleansers to use?


texts: How do I prevent an LED rope light from glowing dim when switched off?

texts:
I have 2 strings of LED lights on my patio wired to a switch/outlet combo. This is controlled by an interior switch that also controls my exterior door light. I can either just have the door light on or switch on the LEDs at the combo box. All was working well.
However, I just recently tapped into the end of the strings with a 16/3 exterior extension cord, cut off the female end and hardwired it into another switch/outlet to control some LED rope lights in a screened porch. When the rope lights are switched off, they continue to glow very dimmly - visible only after dark.
How do I stop them from glowing when they're turned off?


texts: Wiring a combination switch/GFCI outlet with lightswitch downstream

texts:
I need some help wiring a combination switch/GFCI outlet in the following situation.  The second diagram is from the instructions and seems to match my situation, however they have an outlet downstream rather than a lightswitch (is this irrelevant?) and there are 2 black cables coming from downstream which seems to be a mistake that I need clarified.

The existing wiring is a big mess:

Looking into the back of the box:

An illustration of the current wiring:


texts:
Are there small alternatives to the large edge standoffs used to mount glass and signs such as the one in the picture below that you can grab at a local hardware or crafts store?

Looking for something to mount a flat piece. The flat piece has no holes and a frame to hold it is not an option. The mounting solution has to be sturdy yet easy to take off or put back (i.e. not things like glue) as well as aesthetically pleasing (i.e. not things like velcro and zip ties).

One solution I could think of was a screw and a bunch of nuts. Though I do not know what type of screw would have such a large head.

Also for scale, the flat piece is about the size and weight of a smart phone (2.25" wide, 3.25" long, 1/8" high). It will be used as a touch display so drilling holes onto it is not an option. The standoff aspect is needed because there are electronics mounted on the back.


texts: Insulating a Wall Against Unconditioned Attic Space

texts:
I'm looking for help in insulating my 1950s San Diego house.  A second story was added in the 70s and a gas furnace + A/C was added about 10 years ago in the unconditioned space above the downstairs bedrooms. This space is also right next to my master bedroom.

I'm in IECC Zone 3B/C. Highs here are between 60-85F year round and it never gets below 50F at night (rough I know).  The problem is that when it does get to 85F, the vented attic can get to 120-130F since the roof gets a lot of sun. That means at midnight, the outside air temp is 70F and my master bedroom is 90F+.  The air conditioning can run all night and not get it below 80F.  Then again the next day, the master bedroom is a comfy 75 all day until around 4:00PM.

The wall between my bedroom and the unconditioned attic space is R13 fiberglass (crappy piecemeal) with the insulation faces pointing both directions.  The other side is exposed to the attic.  I have air sealed all electrical boxes with spray foam.  The attic only has pull-down stairs to get in, so a full 4'x8' board will not get in without major destruction.  The attic has multiple soffit and gable vents and no fan besides a plug-in stand fan I've been using.

I've done my research and asked around and come up with these options:

Put up a perforated radiant barrier on the attic rafters and gable walls.
Fix the insulation so all faced batts point towards the living space and put up additional, rolled fiberglass insulation.  I was thinking unfaced R30 horizontally across the studs.
Put up an air barrier (Tyvek / house wrap) behind the fiberglass insulation on the attic side of the wall.
Spreading loose cellulose around the attic to bury the ducts, while staying away from the furnace.
Install a temperature-controlled attic fan.

My gut usually tells me to overdo things and to do #s 1-5 on this list, but what would you do here?


texts:
My shower pan, made of gel-coated fiber glass, has three cracks, as shown in the photo below. The cracks radiate fairly straight from the drain in the center at twelve, four, and eight o'clock. (All of the other white streaks are just gel-coat coloring.)

I ground away the cracks and filled them with epoxy, which seems to work okay for the time being. But I would like to know what my options are for a more permanent fix that won't significantly reduce the value.

Replacing the pan is the last thing I want to do. The pan matches the shower walls and a whirlpool bath. A lot of things would have to come out to get to the pan, and I can't imagine a matching pan replacement would be found.

I saw a video where someone had what appeared to be a process for this kind of repair. This involved what looked like an epoxied sheet that covers the entire pan bottom on the top side. I don't know what this is called and I don't know what kind of tradesman I should contact to do this sort of fix. (It doesn't seem like something that a plumber/pipe-fitter type would specialize in.) If someone can point me in the right direction for this, I would appreciate it.

Any other ideas on what I can do and what is common for addressing this sort of problem would be appreciated.

The shower is on the second floor and there is some water damage to the ceiling below. As I walk around the shower pan, I can hear some creaking, and I assume this will lead to flexing and open the cracks up again. I may need to resolve that, too, in the final fix. Does anyone have any suggestions about this?

Also, help with the tags would be appreciated.

Update

From what I have seen in the answers and comments, I need to seriously reconsider how I might remove the pan from the top, remove the subfloor, mitigate any water damage between the subfloor and ceiling below, then rebuild in reverse.

I need to understand how the pan is seated, so I have to examine the situation a little more. But I may be able (with some risk of damage) to remove the shower wall on the shower-head side and remove the short wall under the seat at the other end. Remove the glass enclosure (I did this once before, but I did a hell of a job gluing it back together :( )Without removing the wall opposite the glass door, I might be able to lift the pan out carefully. I have to disengage the drain first, and I don't know how that attaches to the pan. (Do I need to open up the ceiling below so I can get to it from there?)

This sounds complicated mostly because I'm guessing how it's all put together and how things are fastened to each other.

My goal would be to repair the pan rather than replace it.

Putting it back together, I suppose I can strengthen the pan with fiberglass on the bottom. As for dealing with irregularities that could cause it to rock, isn't there something I can bed the pan onto the subfloor with?


texts: Mounting a Projector on a joist - Is Joint Integrity still ok?

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I am mounting a projector on the ceiling in my single story extension with a sloped roof.

My luck had it that there was a joist within range and I proceeded to drill into it from below through the plasterboard ceiling and fix the bracket as I thought this would be the best support.

Now, afterwards, I am concerned that I have weakened the joist and that it may become an issue.

I have attached a sketch that shows approximate dimensions.

The projector and mount will be approx. 13-14kg  (28-31lbs) max. In weight.


texts: I have a Coleman mobile home furnace and my pilot light keeps going out.  I have replaced the thermocouple twice, cleaned the orfice, replace the gas regulator with a brand new one, and even crawled up on my roof and checked my Flue, my propane tank is fuel so i know its got propane going into it.  This is what keeps happening.  I get the pilot light lit and it will run and warm the mobile home up and then when it shuts down/cools it may kick back on a couple times but then sometime later the pilot goes back out and i cant figure out why and what is going on.  Can you help me give me any ideas on why it keeps doing this?


texts: Wire Up a Double Rocker Switch and Normal Rocker Switch

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I'm trying to understand how to wire up this particular section of a newly renovated wall. These wires are supposed to power 3 lights in total and I was told by the contractor to get a double rocker switch and a normal switch. I am familiar with wiring up standard three prong outlets and switches, but this one confuses me.
There are 4 wires, with some labeled 4, 3, and 2. One wire is wrapped with red tape.
My question is basically which wires go where on the rocker and double rocker? I'm assuming since these are for switches only to leave the neutrals capped off.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yu7tMXjQzpnA1fFu8FiZ-ipB_-KukJcT/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z4ua27yxM-dxdmGM_bRjXIfutaowdPFJ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YiffyaemRl6uNC1JCzUpqTZx-4e9TP5K/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YfEgOEOX9GaO6StBDlJxW0eAbjxvnTAI/view?usp=sharing


texts: instead of removing low area..........puddles in my concrete patio

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Amending my original question...
The edge of slab is only a couple feet from Low area and it would pour into  gravel theoretically if not for the low point.   would it make more sense to try to grind down that portion ...?

ORIGINAL QUESTION-- whats best way to even out areas of concrete patio where rain water collects into 2 large puddles and it also sits right up against pool decking

A crack has also formed which I tried to patch with concrete caulking

Please help I have been trying to find the right solution and dont really understand if I should use self leveling or if it needs to be done in thin layers


texts: Is a negative reading from a non-contact voltage detector sufficient?

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I'm a beginner at doing electrical work, and I want to make sure I'm not taking unnecessary risks.

Let's say that I'm preparing to work on some wiring.  I have a non-contact voltage detector that beeps when held up to live wires.  Next, I have turned off what I believe to be the proper circuit-breaker and my detector reads negative on the wires I'm about to work on.

Am I good to go, or are there still other electrocution risks that I need to be aware of?

If the latter, what other safety measures should I take?


texts: Is there any way to fix a hinge pulled out of particle board cabinet door?

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I hit my head on the open door cabinet over the sink, yet again, and slammed the door shut in anger.  Adding insult to injury, the whole hinge pulled out of the particle board and took a big chunk of the door with it: Photo of damage

Is there any way to fix it?  I know these are terrible cabinets, but replacing them isn't in the plans.


texts: Where should arc fault breaker not be used?

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I'm trying to stay on top of the electricians rewiring our house and correctly interpret the NEC 2017 for arc fault breakers. There is a permit and an inspection when they done, but I want to understand it myself and stay on top of it.

Should there be an arc fault breaker on every breaker, or are there exceptions where it's best not to? (and not required by code)

Reading the code bathrooms aren't required? Why not?

What about furnace, air conditioner and stove?

Finally, outlets in a basement woodworking room?

I want everything done to code and as safe as possible.

Thanks!


texts: i have cut my cement board too short for my shower walls

texts: I have cut my cement board too short for my shower walls; I need another 2 inches so it lines up right. Should I cut a 2 inch piece of cement board or go ahead and tie in the drywall for the remaining 2 inches?


texts: First of all I thought replacing a bathtub faucet wouldn't be hard, I took off the old faucet and commenced to fit the new on it. I got it assembled and put the screw in and now the screw is stuck, it won't go in our out. It appears the screw was too big and too long??? How can I remove it?? thanks


texts: How do I pump up water pressure in my shower?

texts: I have a well system that generates approx 35 psi of flow to my shower. How can I pump up pressure to the shower?


texts:
The stopper has come out of my bathroom sink drain, and I'd like to put it back in.  (It's been this way for years, and I don't recall how it came out in the first place.)

The stopper has an offset stirrup (is that the right term?), and the drain has a post sticking out of the side of the pipe that doesn't quite reach the opposite side of the pipe.  The post tilts up/down when you manipulate the pull knob on top of the faucet.
If I align the offset stirrup with the gap at the end of the post, then the stirrup slides onto the post.  However this is not a secure connection, and it comes off fairly easily.
It seems like the right way to do it is to rotate the stopper 180 degrees so the stirrup offset is flush with the base of the post, instead of sitting near the the end of the post.
But as far as I can see, there's no way to do that.  If I go underneath the sink, is there a way to retract the post so that the stopper can be inserted in the correct orientation?


texts: Are louvered bedroom doors allowed by code?

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I'd like to build new rail and stile type interior bedroom doors with slats installed in the panel openings. This would be for improved air flow. This story on ABC ("Closing your bedroom door at night could save your life in a fire") makes me think there might be code requirements in place to not have anything but a solid bedroom door.

If a solid door is required, I could install the slats as planned, backed by safety glass to give the impression of a "breezy" door, and have some manual louvers in place that could be used to control air flow.


texts: What type of hinges do I need for this cupboard?

texts: We are tiling our bathroom and want to tile the built in cupboard, which has 2 doors inset into a wooden frame.  So that we don't need to leave a wide gap between the tiles at the edge of the door and the tiles on the frame, we need a hinge that will pull the whole door completely out and clear of the frame, but don't know what will work as there are so many types.  We already made a mistake by buying hinges like those on kitchen units which don't work, so don't want to keep buying the wrong ones!


texts:
I have a set of DeWalt drill bits, and there was one piece included that I don't know the use for.
Pictures (quarter for scale):

The set includes a magnetic sleeve as well, but don't think it is related.
Edit: Possibly related to magnetic sleeve. Was useful for helping push a bit out of there...
What is this drill bit accessory?


texts: Do the end caps on this fuse get transferred to the new fuse when/if it blows?

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This is one of the time delay fuses in the box outside by my a/c condensor unit:

New ones don't come with the copper end caps as far as I can tell:

I'm guessing they just get pried off the bad fuse and pressed onto the new fuse??


texts: What NEC requirements apply to installing receptacle next to a tree?

texts:
I will install a receptacle next to a tree. I know it must be protected by a GFCI and weatherproof. But my concern is about how to support it and how high it should be from the ground.

Where in the NEC is the information about these requirements?


texts: How to make a reverse bend in a sheet metal box

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I need to bend sheet metal in a box-like shape, but with one flap in the reverse direction as shown below:

Currently I only have a simple flat brake, however, I don't see how to do this, even if I had a $3000 pan and box brake with fingers.

The only way to do this that I can see is if I could somehow offset the platen from the apron and then put a die base on the platen inside the box, but as I understand it, normal pan brakes don't do that.


texts: Two Separate Electrical Services (Meters), Disconnecting One and Making Subpanel

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The property I've been renovating has two separate meters. One on the house and one on a detached garage that used to be an automotive shop. I recently upgraded the house to a 200amp service (has exterior disconnect and 4 slots available outside) and I want to disconnect the garage meter and connect it as a subpanel. Solely because the garage electric bill runs more than the house due to the second service cost. The garage panel is properly grounded with rods and I'll be running SER 4 strand cable from the main to the sub. I'll be unbonding the ground and neutral in the garage once it's a subpanel. Adding drip loops and anchors at each connection point. My question is best practice on running the cable. It'll be about an 80-95ft run and underground is not an option without cutting out a lot of concrete. The service line to the garage is overhead with three strands going into the weatherhead (hot, hot, neutral). I'd have to fish a ground in/out to connect to the 4 strand SER coming from the house. The house is rectangle with the panel on the SW corner and the garage located off the NE corner. I.e., the garage is on the opposite side of the main panel of the house.
My question is it's equally easy to run through the attic vs. the exterior/perimeter of the house. In the attic I can save some wire by running the diagonal, house exterior I'd have to follow both sides. If I run through the attic I can either exit through the roof or gable on the side nearest the garage weatherhead. Is there a benefit to either? If I exit the roof, do I need a weatherhead in the sense that I "splice" the cables? Meaning I run the SER in the conduit individually, then I splice from the garage weatherhead to this new weathehead (about 25ft overhead). OR do I keep the SER cable fully intact coming out of the weathehead and then splice at the garage weatherhead? What's the best practice for running about 25ft of SER overhead is basically what I'm asking. Spliced for the gap or unspliced, 2-2-2-4 Aluminum.
Other options?
Thank you


texts: My kitchen faucet jumps, sputters and stops and squeals when water temperature reaches straight hot

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Faucet and supply lines are 18 months old.  About a month ago, the faucet started jumping but only when on straight hot water and when the water temperature is probably close to 130 degrees.  It’s one of those newer models with the pull down sprayer.  Right after it jumps and water stops I can hear high pitched squeal.
Is there a washer inside the faucet that maybe softens and expands to restrict flow when it gets to hot?
When it jumps and squeals, I turn it off and immediately turn it back on at still a warm temp but not quite so hot and it works fine.  New Dishwasher on same valve and doesn’t appear to have any issues.


texts: What kind of wood should be used to replace a sub floor?

texts: I live in a British late 1900s semi detached house that I assume would have had floorboards originally. However it seems that these have been replaced by Chipboard. This doesnt seem very sturdy and I was going to replace. What would be the best type of wood to use to replace the old chipboard?


texts:
I live near Denver, Colorado (so northern hemisphere, some good snow storms in the winter, lots of baking UV in the summer) in a 1970s-built home and I'm putting a pergola over a patio in my back yard.    Thinking about the pergola rafters, I'm seeing several design inputs:

Want the rafters far enough apart to let in as much winter sun as possible
Want the rafters close enough together to block as much summer afternoon sun as possible
Want the distance between rafters to be aesthetically pleasing
Want the rafters aligned either perpendicular or parallel to the back of the house for aesthetics
Want the rafters aligned to let in the most winter sun and block the most summer afternoon sun
Want the rafters straight up & down for aesthetics
Want the rafters angled/tilted to let in as much winter sun as possible and block as much summer afternoon sun as possible

Realizing that several of these design inputs are in conflict, the "optimum" alignment and tilt of the rafters might be more art than science, but is there an app, web site, book, or guru that could help at least calculate some of the individual optima?
And perhaps just as important, I would want to know how much of a difference each adjustment makes.  For example, if giving each rafter a 30° tilt and running it at 25° off direct north/south gave me 50% better sun coverage in the summer (over straight up/down north/south rafters), it might be worth the resulting "wonky" look, but if it only gave 5% better coverage the aesthetic concerns would win out.
Am I overthinking this?  Probably, but they won't start construction for several weeks so I've got time to ponder the deeper questions.
EDIT
According to Google Maps, my house and lot are about 12° E of due north:


texts: Does my ceiling fan's down rod need extra support?

texts:
I am planning on installing a ceiling fan with a light kit (about 17-18lbs total), with a 24” down rod and was wondering if the down rod needed to be supported.
It is a new installation and will be installing the proper box, but was concerned about the down rod only...seismic support(?)
Thanks.


texts: Plug socket won't turn off even after replacing

texts:
I had a problem with a plug socket where the socket wouldn't turn off so I replaced with another that I got from Screwfix and now a week later we have the same issue? The socket only gets used about twice a day max... The original socket was about 20 years old.

Seems odd/coincidental that 2 sockets have the same issue?

Regards
Liam


texts: Wiring a ceiling fan/light to two 3 way switches

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Wiring a ceiling fan/light combo with TWO 3 way switches. The fan/light is pull string type.

The First 3 way Switch box has ONE (line/power) 14-2 cable plus ground, and TWO 14-3 cables plus ground wires.

The 14-2 (line/power) BLACK wire is pigtailed to BOTH the First and Second 14-3 black wires, then to the bottom black screw on First 3 way switch.

The White wire 14-2 cable is pigtailed to the First 14-3 white wire only.

The Red wire of same 14-3 is to First 3 way switch left side brass screw.

The First 14-3 (said pigtailed black/white from 14-2 line/power) routes to the ceiling fan/light junction box where it is pigtailed black-black, white-white, red-red to an additional 14-3 wire then pigtailed to the fan/light, matching wires black-black, white-white,with red to blue.
The additional 14-3 cable from ceiling fan j-box continues on to power two recessed can lights.

BOTH fan/light AND recessed can lights turn on when First 3 way switch is turned on.

Back at the light switch, the Second 14-3 cable has the black wire pigtailed to First 14-3, the red wire to the brass screw (traveler) of First 3 way switch, and the white wire capped off to NOTHING.

This Second 14-3 cable is routed over to the Second 3 way switch box (with only this one 14-3 cable in it) and ends there with the black wire to bottom black screw, red wire to right side brass traveler screw and white wire to left side brass traveler screw.

This Second 3 way switch does NOT power the fan/light and canned lights as it should, working in conjunction with the First 3 way switch.
Only the first switch will turn fan/light and canned light on simultaneously.
So basically a three wire up to fan and back to switch, then to second switch and back on a three wire.
Questions would be, should black wires at first switch be pigtailed in this fashion? And why would the second 14-3 wire be capped alone to nothing?


texts: Roofing : Pros and cons of re-roofing or re-layering

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I am considering changing my roof which is 28 years old. I was quoted a total new roof at $9K and a re-layering (putting second layer over the first one) at $6K.

Any comments on what is the downside for the re-layer option?


texts: I have a Dayton Blower motor. Model 3K617K. It has a clutch that is supposed to engage when it spins up. However mine never gets up to speed. It turns, but slowly and constantly makes the loud humming/chugging noise it would normally make just for a few moments before the clutch engages. It does this with no load on the motor. If I lease it running for any amount of time it either gets considerably hot, or trips the 20 AMP breaker. I have taken it apart and verified that the clutch is free to move. Given all the above I'm afraid it's an issue with the windings meaning I'll need to replace the whole thing. Is there anything else I should try or check.


texts: How do I fix interior and exterior doors that do not close properly?

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I have a couple doors in my house that are having problems.  I know that I likely have foundation problems, but I can't afford the $6000 - $10000 to have that fixed at the moment.  I need an interim solution.

First is my bedroom door.  The door meets the frame at the top at just about the midpoint of each.  When it is closed as much as possible, there is still about a 3/4" gap at the knob side of the door.  The door is pre-hung, and all of the hinge screws are firmly embedded in the door and the frame.  I tried to rehang the door, but to no avail.  I don't see an option other than to trim the top edge of the door.  Any ideas?

Second is my front door.  For a while I've had to push down to get the deadbolt to engage fully, but a few days ago, I was completely unable to lock it and had to resort to removing the strike plate.  And in the past day or so, it has progressed to the point where the knob latch isn't catching either.  I need an interim solution for this as well.

All the questions/answers I've found involve the hinge screws being loose and rebuilding the hole.  That's not the problem here.

Also, this seems to be a seasonal issue with the worst of it in the summer, but it has never been this bad.

Pictures:

This is my bedroom door closed to its fullest and the small crack that has appeared above the corner.

This is my front door.  You can see how the top edge has more space on the left (hinge side) than on the right.  Also you can see how I've removed the strike plate from the deadbolt, which reveals how it is misaligned.

Edit  As a follow-up, we had our foundation repaired this year.  That fixed all of the spacing and fit issues.  I still have an issue where the holes for the strike plate screws are stripped, but that's minor.


texts: How smooth does the floor need to be to lay vinyl plank over it?

texts: I'm installing CoreTec One vinyl plank flooring as a floating floor over slab in a three-season porch.  I don't think my situation is as bad as that described in How can I prepare uneven concrete basement floor for vinyl planks?  The slab is even at a macro level (no visible dips or hills).  However, overall the cement has a texture like a lightly-textured ceiling, a bit rougher than most sidewalks.  I worry that laying the plank over this is like laying it on a bed of nails with many points of contact but a lot of unsupported area in between.  Do I need to do a skim coat of self-leveling cement to even this out before laying the planks?


texts:
I have water on the top 4 feet of my basement foundation wall.

This goes around almost the entire perimeter of the basement.  The bottom 4 feet of blocks are dry.  Any ideas the cause?  Can someone suggest a remediation method.  FYI the entire wall is below grade.  Ground is clay.  Grading appears good and downspouts are directed away from the house.

Thanks in advance for any input you can offer....


texts: How to ensure shower handle flushed when replacing shower wall to tiled wall

texts:
I am ripping off my shower kit and the wall. Before demo, I took picture of the back of the shower fiberglass wall:

I plan to install tile. What happen next is to put drywall and then hardie board and seal.

My question is:

How to make sure the check valve mechanism flushed to the back and ensure the handle can screw in and flushed in the front of the tile?

So I assume I need to put the white piece behind the wall.

But old shower wall has different thickness which is much thinner than the new drywall + hardie backing board + thinset + tile which could be 1.5" thick.

I tried to "dry fit" everything first and need to figure out how this might look like or if I need to do some washer or different type of mechanism...

Any idea?

UPDATE 1

Here is the full view:

I can "move" the plumbing in and out. It's quite flexible:


texts: Why is there gasoline in my generator's crankcase?

texts: Briggs & Stratton portable generator blowing white smoke.  when checking the oil level gas poured out.


texts: How should I treat mold under the caulk around my kitchen sink?

texts:
I've got a tiled kitchen countertop and have noticed some mold under the caulking around the sink, especially where the tile dips.

Should I clean out the old caulk and re-caulk the area, or pop the sink out then clean and start over?


texts: Method to fasten pink board to interior foundation wall

texts:
So I'll be finishing my basement soon and will be using 1.5" pinkboard attached to my interior foundation walls.

What is the best method to fasten this to the wall (construction adhesive, caulk)?

Should the pink board touch the floor?  if not how much room should I give myself?

Should it touch the joists?

What should I use to seal the between the boards (caulk, foam, teflon tape)?

Thanks,
Joe


texts: How do I measure the thickness of something with a lip or frame?

texts:
I'm looking for a device like vernier calipers (ie 0.1mm resolution or thereabouts is fine), but in more of a C-clamp configuration which allows me to measure the thickness of some object's face where there is a thicker frame, lip or ridge around the outside which makes it impossible to use verniers.

A few examples:

Thickness of glass plate in a framed mirror
Thickness of the side walls of a container with a narrowed top
Thickness of a lipped lid, say for a barrel

I know there must be a range of measurement devices to do these sorts of things, but my Google-fu is failing me today. Micrometers are the closest I can get, but (1) I don't need that sort of accuracy, and (2) they still don't work if the lip/frame is too thick.

What should I be looking for?


texts: How to tell one (unconnected) underground dead wire from another

texts:
I have three sets of 3-12 underground wire running from the house to the garage.  It is not connected at this time to either house fuse box/electrical or garage (basically its buried with approx 6-8 feet of wire coming out of ground for eventual hook up).
Since they are unconnected dead wires, I’m looking for a tool that could generate low voltage power to one end of each wire so that I can then check the opposite end and determine which wire is which.
Any ideas would be appreciated.


texts:
Thanks in advance for your help.
I have a run in a 20 year old house that is about half out.  about half the outlets and 2 overhead lights won't work.

After some troubleshooting, I took 40' of wire left over from an old job to jump from the last working outlet to what I think is the next, about 10 feet down.  So, twisted the Jump wire to the panel/working side and connected to the next outlet.  Lights and outlets worked throughout the circuit.

Disconnecting the jump wire and removing the first outlet altogether, I twisted the panel wires with the inside wires - basically just took out the outlet.  No voltage measured at the 2nd outlet ends - measured at the wires having disconnected the from the outlet. So, nothing in line but a splice.

My multi-meter is old/analog, and I couldn't 0 the ohms  But using the 40' as a baseline, it read "35" Ohms for just the 40 feet of wire.

Disconnected the inside wires from the panel wires, and used the jump wire to test continuity inside + jump wires twisted together. The white was about "70" and the black was very high - about 500. That was on the R1K setting.  Anything less than 1K doesn't measure, even probe to probe. So the numbers are probably only useful for relative purposes.

Ran scenarios inside black and outside white connected to panel - 0 V at the other end.  Outside black and inside white 120V.  Outside and outside 120V of course.  Inside and inside 0 V.  So, black doesn;t work.  Again, jumping the inside wires worked to light up the rest of the line.  However, even though O-Black and I-White measured 120V,  OBlack and IWhite did not reactivate the rest of the circuit.  Just the outside jump.

I don't want to just leave a wire running along the floor and I don't want to tear out the wall to replace the inside wire.  Suggestions please.


texts: How risky is it to cap an old (metal system) sprinkler head?

texts: We have an all metal sprinkler system. I need to have one head capped. What is the chance of the pipe breaking? Is it better to leave it alone? The sprinkler head in question is going to be right in between pavers of an occasionally used pathway


texts: How do I install a junction box with NM-clamps?

texts:
I bought a junction box in order to splice three Romex together along the 2x4's in the ceiling of my (unfinished) basement.  The box looks like this:

When I bought it, I assumed that I could just screw/nail it to the side of the joist using those holes in the back.  However, I can't do that because the screws for the cable clamp stick out the back by about 3/4"!

So, what is the correct way to mount this box to a 2x4? Or did I just buy the wrong thing?


texts:
I opened up a wall to renovate my kitchen and noticed something funny. The outlet on the right, which faced the kitchen, is fed with 12 gauge wire. Then there is a "jumper" line as shown, which is 14 gauge, connecting to the outlet on the left which faces the dining area.
Question 1: is this ok to leave?
Question 2: where would the wire be going from the outlet on the left back up through the ceiling? Could I assume it is feeding another outlet? I have to move both these vertical wires to remove this wall.
Thanks for any help.


texts:
I have a 3 way setup and one switch has white black and copper wire and the other one has the same but with a red wire. Can I use smart switches for these?
Thanks!
Joe


texts: I have a bathroom with only a light switch and no outlets. The wiring is old so there are no ground wires. Can I put an outlet on that circuit and if so, should it be a GFCI?


texts: Trying to change regular outlets with GFCI in both bathrooms

texts:
A few months ago, both outlets stopped working at the same time.

I thought one of them would be feeding another one. So I bought two GFCI outlets to replace both of them in case. When I opened the outlet and tried to find which wire is line and which is load, it seemed like neither has power in them in either of the outlets. They both have four cables with white and black wires in them. So two of them should be line and two should be load (at least that is what my understanding is).

Could it be that it is getting load from somewhere else and that is where the problem is?


texts: Refinishing floors - wood has blotches where filler was used - need advice on how to fix

texts:
BACKGROUND

We had carpet over our hard wood floors.  Decided to remove carpet and go with the hard wood floors.    The floors were dated so we sanded them down to bare wood.  The bare wood looked very nice.

We made our own wood filler using elmers glue and shavings from sanding the floor.    We filled all holes and let that dry overnight.  We then sanded down the areas where wood filler was used.

We prepped the area and the floor, then applied the first coat of minwax semi-gloss polyurethane to the floor.

ISSUE

The areas where we filled holes doesn't accept the minwax.   The wood looks like it has blotches in it.   The glue has sunk into the wood, keeping the finish from embedding itself in the wood.

We are greatly saddened.    :(.  Because the floor looks great in most of the areas, but in the areas where we replaced the holes it looks pretty bad.

What can we do to remedy this situation?    We would rather not start all over.

Here are pictures of what i'm talking about....


texts: Use 3 prong microwave on 2 wire ungrounded outlet?

texts:
I have a dedicated, ungrounded 15A outlet. Can I use a microwave with a 3 prong plug on it if I install an AFCI/GFCI combo outlet? Or do I need to also ground the outlet?

The microwave owners manual says the outlet must be at least 15A.


texts: Can I use liquid floor leveler on a previously tiled wood bathroom floor where I could not get up all of the thin set

texts: This is a 8 x 5 bathroom floor on the second level. The wood subfloor seems to be in good condition, no movement, solid.  One section all of the old thin set that came up very nicely. The rest of it was a bear and I could not get it up at all whatsoever and seemed to possibly have something like self leveler over the thinset. We already primed it with the intent of putting floor leveler on it but am having second thoughts. I believe the largest variance from the lowest part to the highest part maybe a quarter inch.  we realize that the floor leveler will be pretty thick in some areas. Is there a reason this is not recommended? We intend on putting down a heat mat, thinset finishing with large 18 x 36 ceramic floor tiles.  Thank you.


texts: Water protection on top of heat pump water heater

texts:
I just got and installed one of those new  heat pump water heaters. I was able to plumb the cold and hot fittings to the side because the top has an air inlet and a heat exchanger, but there is some other plumbing above it like the air bladder. The plumbing in the house is mostly PEX and there are some of those metal clamp fittings above that air filter inlet for the heat pump part of the water heater.
I am worried about what would happen if one of those PEX junctions were to fail and water poured into the air inlet of the heater. Wondering if this would cause the unit to catastrophically fail or not.
The manual says not to put anything on top of the unit so as not to obstruct the air flow, but wondered if there was something i could get or make above it to allow the air to come in from the side while allowing the water to divert to the floor and not into the unit?


texts:
Just purchased a new house and have been doing some electrical work, and I've been surprised at how many things have been crammed into single circuits.
For example, one circuit seems to serve four light fixtures and five outlets across three rooms. That feels super overcrowded! I'm considering my options with re-wiring some of them as well as strategic use of GFCI/AFCI/DFCI breakers/outlets. But I'd like to really understand what is happening before I do all that.
Is there a way to determine the order of items on a circuit? And if a circuit branches into multiple branches, is there a way to determine that?


texts: How to take down a lath and plaster ceiling

texts:
I have a lath and plaster ceiling to remove, but it is quite large, and my first attempts have created masses of dust. Is there some way to take it down easily? (For example, would lifting the floorboards above make it easier?).

Also, is there some way to reduce the dust produced? Maybe with some hose set up?


texts: New Sprinkler Installation - Rototill/Level Before or After? Any other "Pre-Sprinkler" Preparation?

texts: I have a (mostly) dirt and weeds backyard to which I am planning to add sprinkling and new sod next month. However, my locality requires (and I agree since the soil is poor) that I rototill in compost to prepare the soil before sod is installed. My backyard is also uneven and bumpy. Thus, would it be better to rototill/flatten the yard before or after I begin digging the trenches and laying pipe? Is there any other prep I should do before installing sprinkling?


texts: Do I need to install drainage medium for my sump pump to work well in an old basement?

texts:
My house is old. Built in 1922. I have installed a sump pump. When we get heavy rains like right now it leaks pretty good. I am in Kansas City and my soil is very clay like. The lowest point in the floor of the basement is original so it is a thin layer of cement on the clay (no gravel). It buckled last year and now water pours in (that's where I put the sump pump). But water is still coming in along the cracks and floor, so its like the sump isn't doing exactly what it should be doing. It is pumping water out that if I didn't have it would be flooding the basement. The pump is in a pit embedded in the ground, plugged in and plumbed outside.

Should I tear out the floor around the pit, dig down 6 inches, lay 2-3 inches of gravel then lay a new slab on top? I think the water just can make its way through all the clay to get to the sump pit.


texts: Code compliance for outdoor 20 amp receptacle?

texts: Looking to add a 20 amp receptacle on the outside of my house, on a separate circuit. I don't know what NEC codes to look out for. It will be on the outside wall of the house, if that helps. The code I am familiar with is using the correct gauge for a 20 amp circuit.


texts: How to avoid wires when drilling into the wall?

texts:
I have to anchor a bookcase to a wall to prevent it from tipping over.

When drilling into the wall, how do I make sure I can avoid drilling into the wires behind the wall?

I have bought a Stud finder which says it can detect wires, but I am not sure if it's that's the only thing I should rely on.

One of the Anchors will be on a stud, and the other will be on just dry wall.

Thanks.


texts: Can I replace a single pole light switch with a GFCI switch combo?

texts:
I have an older house that has a single pole light switch in the bathroom.

it powers a single bulb vanity light above the mirror.

I would to replace it with a switch and GFCI outlet

there is just a black and white wire currently on single pole switch.

Is this something that can be done by either me or an electrician without costing too much?

if you need more info about my current wiring please let me know.


texts:
I was planning to use one of the two free knockouts in my meter-panel for a 1.5" conduit containing conductors for a new sub panel.
Opened the main to find both of them blocked by a wireway.  Assume this was for a ground level service entry, but mine is overhead.
I cannot find any info from Eaton.  The panel is an Eaton mbx2040b200bts.
Is there any chance of a listed method for using the knockouts in the bottom left corner?
I'll be relocating a few of the circuits from this panel to the sub, so the mess in this picture will get a bit cleaner.
The other option is moving the leftmost 1.5" conduit to the new sub.  It feeds another sub panel on the opposite side of the house.  New sub is 125 amp, candidate for moving to it is 100, and currently experiences no more than 40 amps of load, but that may grow in the future.


texts: Are there optimal positions for A/C and heat register grills to be facing?

texts: I noticed a while ago that some of my A/C and heat register grills are facing the walls and not the room (the insides of the curves on the grills face the walls) in some rooms but not in others. My assumption was that they should all point towards the room, not the wall, that some of them were put on backwards. Is that a correct assumption or is there some reason why the system would benefit from grills pointing at walls, like for airflow reasons or something? Or does it not matter at all, but is a preference thing to not feel the air blow on you?


texts:
The picture below shows a retaining wall. It was hard to take a picture from a good angle, but it looks to me like the wall is showing a "belly" and the seams are opening up. But I'm not sure: perhaps it was built with these bulges. There's a lot of cement in this wall.

This wall in a Philadelphia suburb and it supports a patio on a very steep decline.

But I do hope that the experts here are able to assess from this picture!


texts: electrical fixture replaced now lights dont go on/off

texts:
I installed a new track light to where the old fixture was.I have power to the light track but the on/ off switch does not work anymore and the lights stay on, unless I turn off the circuit breaker. I replaced the switch thinking it was faulty, but did not help. There are 2 cables at the fixture box with a black and white and ground from each cable.
I attached black to black ,white to white, ground to ground wires from track just like it was before.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,


texts:
My stove takes 6mm stove knobs but I bought 8mm stove knobs.

Is there an adapter or something to make the 6mm shaft work with 8mm knobs?


texts: How to connect Nikken counter-top water filter beneath the counter

texts:
I have Nikken counter-top water filter system.
Exactly like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikken-PiMag-Water-Filtration-System-/161652322514

I am moving to a newly build house and need to install this water filter beneath the counter. So my plan is to connect the incoming filter line to the cold water supply 1/2" T-connector under the counter and then install a separate drinking water faucet and connect the output filter line to that drinking water faucet.

Currently the 1/4 filter hoses are attached to the diverter which has the single-barb style connection with the compression fitting screwed on top. The thread of the compression nut is not NPT standard. Nikken water diverter looks exactly like this one:
http://www.curezone.org/blogs/fm.asp?i=1824643

The local hardware stores and even the specialized plumbing stores are unable to come up with the suitable fittings to allow the proposed connection.

Any idea where can I find say 1/2" male to 1/8" barb with compression fittings?
Or may be somebody can suggest other solutions to my problem?


texts: This fell out of my toilet when I unscrewed the supply line. What is it?

texts:
I needed to replace my toilet’s tank to toilet gasket, and in the process disconnected the toilet’s supply line. The rubber “screw like” object shown above fell out when I did this.

After finishing the gasket replacement, I forgot to put this back, and everything worked fine with no apparent leaks. But now I want to put it back, but I’m not sure what it does or what orientation it previously had. After researching and watching videos of flush valve and supply line replacements, it appears nobody else has a part like this in their toilets. I’m honestly beginning to think this object wasn’t supposed to be where it was.

Here’s an image of the disconnected supply line:

Here’s an image of the flush valve from inside the tank. Brand name: fluidmaster, probably installed ~2011.


texts: I need to replace a broken window pane and have been watching several DIY videos on the subject. There are so many glazing types to secure in the windows and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what type of glazing this is and if this is a common easy DIY project.


texts:
I have been dealing with this problem ever since I purchased the property (Aug 2018). There is water that is getting into our backyard cottage -- no idea from where! It has created a musty smell, the baseboards are black, and woodbugs / worms are getting in too.

Things I have tried:

(1) used a concrete sealer (KRYTON) are the perimeter. This was my first guess, as the water seems to be localized to the baseboards.

(2) installed a french drain around the perimeter of the cottage, as the yard had standing water so I thought maybe water was seeping in somehow.

(3) Stripped sections of drywall to see how far the moisture goes.

Here are some photos:

Bathroom (the wood is dry, it was mostly wet on the concrete that can be seen, and between the vap barrier and drywall -- the drywall was very brittle):

Outside bathroom:

Kitchen (underneath the baseboard):

Bedroom corner (1):

Outside corner of bedroom (1) (it's only wet because I sprayed the hose on there to see if water was coming in -- it wasn't):

Bedroom corner (2) (bone dry in the place where the insulation was):

Outside corner of bedroom (2) (it's only wet because I sprayed the hose on there to see if water was coming in -- it wasn't):

EDIT: I just removed some of the flooring to find that the black stuff between the flooring and the slab is very moist, and lots of wood bugs along the perimeter. Could it be ground water getting through the slab, collecting on the black stuff, and then flowing into the corners and sides of the cottage?


texts: I need to install a ceiling fan i bought, but the wires are not matching up. On the ceiling fan the wires are blue, black, green, and white. The wires from the ceiling that i need to connect to the ceiling fan are a black and tan that are together, another black wire a green and another tan wire. Not sure what to hook anything what to what at this point. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!....ceiling 2 black wires 2 beige wires and 1 green. Ceiling fan 1 blue 1 black 1 white and a green.


texts: Turning regular door switch outlet into an outlet with USB

texts: I have a regular outlet too white to black to red and a ground which is controlled by the light switch. I should say half of the outlet is controlled by the light switch. I want to replace it with an outlet that includes USB plugs.  But I do not want to USB plugs controlled by the light switch. Do they make outlets that can be installed  with half of the outlet still being controlled by the light switch to be able to turn off lamps and such but still have the USB ports ready at all times?


texts: What type of primer should be used on moisture resistant drywall?

texts: What type of primer should I use my basement bathroom walls? New moisture resistant drywall has been installed, taped and sanded, and is now ready to be primed.


texts: How to get rid of CO₂ in a house with A/C in hot summer?

texts:
Recently, I've been measuring the CO₂ concentration during multiple nights and the levels in the bedroom where I sleep are very high and unhealthy (over 1600 ppm).

I use an AirVisual monitor, which is high precision and catches the trends. I opened the window last night, and that's why the CO₂ is lower. But on all the other days, it's over 1400-1600 ppm.

I get a high concentration only when I'm sleeping, so I assume that the CO₂ comes from me. Since the windows are shut and the door closed, the CO₂ gets trapped.

The problem is that during the summer, the temperatures outdoor are over 95 F (35 C) with high humidity, and I have the airconditioning running inside. If I open the window, the heat comes in very fast and then the AC has to do extra work, which means waste of money and resources. And it's the same situation during the night.

How do I get rid of CO₂ inside the house without opening the windows when the weather is hot?

EDIT: After reading all the great suggestions, I have tried a new measurement with the device far away from my bed, so it will not be affected by my breath. I also checked for timers and couldn't find any. Last night I closed the window and the door at around 11 PM and the concentration started to slowly increase. During the night, the CO2 levels increased significantly (see graph below). In the morning, I opened the window and it slowly started decreasing. I have no doubt that there is a lot of CO2 in the room. So my question stands. How to get rid of CO2 or any other gases/vapors for that matter, in a hot, humid climate. Is HRV the only solution?


texts: Need help with wiring a combination two way switch

texts: I'm trying to swap out an existing two way combo switch with a new. When I pulled it out, the right side terminals had three wires. Two black and a red. On the left side there was one black. My new outlet only has space for two wires on the right and left. How do I wire properly? Thanks, new here


texts: How to make switched Outlet control on Switched Outlet on opposite side of room

texts: Are there any on the Shelf products that allow light switches on one side of the room to control unswitched receptacles on the other side of the room? I know that you could do this with smart switches, but those are relatively expensive and I would I think that there is one that uses a RF transmitter and RF controlled relay.


texts: Will window shrink-wrap make a noticeable difference in heating bill in house with single-paned windows?

texts: I'm curious how well the window shrink wrap really works. I moved into an older house (1927) in Lincoln, Nebraska, this summer. It's all single pane windows with a window screen and a storm window, as well. We have about 20 windows, so I'm estimating a cost for shrinkwrapping to be about $50-$100 with a couple hours of labor, too. I also just think the plastic shrinkwrap looks a little ugly, but if it'll save me more than it costs to install, it might be worth it. I've found some research just saying to replace the windows, but that's not feasible right now.


texts: What is the proper procedure for spray painting metal and plastic?

texts:
I've done a bit of studying around and I think I've grasped the basics, but if you could walk me through more nuances of spray painting, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Objective: Spray paint on steel (and a little bit of plastic) for:

semi-gloss finish
high durability (chip, scratch, rust resistant)
wet-cleanable (I think the semi-gloss coating should allow this)

My current procedure:

Cover areas not to be painted with paper and tape.
Scuff the surface down with 100-grit sandpaper. [1]
Wipe clean.
Prime. [2]
Apply color coating. Let dry.
Sand with 400-grit and apply another coat. 400-grit sand again. [3]
???
Finished.

[1]: How do I know when I'm done with this pre-processing step? Do I have to scuff and remove the manufacturer's coat until I see the bare metal? Or do I just remove a significant part of it?
If you feel like you have time, can you name some reasons why I would want to do this? I imagine my primer/coating would stick better to metal than on top of another coating, but I'm not sure.

[2]: How much priming is enough? Should I be picky about primer choice?

[3]: I presume that this process gives the semi-glossy finish I want, but I don't see how multiple coat + fine sanding is going to achieve it. Will it really? Or do I finish with the color coating first, then apply a glossy enamel coat on top?


texts: How do I cut Semi-Rigid Aluminium Ducting?

texts:
I wish to cut the duct work without damaging my hands or my wife's kitchen scissors.  So what tool should I be using?

(Trying to get the ends squared using a freehand hacksaw does not look easy.)


texts: What is the protective plate on a door lock called?

texts:
Some doors have this plate that guards the latch mechanism.
For some reason my search-fu is failing, I found tons of diagrams of lock and door parts but I can't find that plate.
What is that called?


texts:
I have a probably stupid question about assembling ventilation pipe for a cooker hood.

I want to vent my cooker hood through the eaves rather than go through the roof as I suspect it's cheaper, less effort and less visually disruptive.

This is in a relatively modern extension of a circa 190 year old traditional stone and slate property.

I could core through the bricks, but I thought that was a more difficult job with the most scope for damage.

The hood has max flowrate at 386m^3/h so a bit of research suggests I can get away with 5"/125mm (or equivalent flat channel).

It's a tight squeeze, so I was thinking of using some flat channel to exit the eaves, which look like:

I was looking at the Manrose catalogue and I can't work out what I need to terminate the flat channel? Can you just cut a hole, use one of the grilles and place the flat channel up against it? Not sure how it connects - if indeed it does.

I know there are 'airbricks' that look like a 'connectable' thing, but I don't have much vertical leeway - just 6cm at the outside edge.

A am thinking of using a flexible or 45 degree flat channel connector at the left hand side is what I was thinking, just not sure if it has to go through an airbrick or can just poke into the 2cm wood of the eave (at number 9 above).

Hope that makes sense - I wish I had a selection of parts to 'play' with to see how these could fit together.

I have a toolstation, wickes, b&q and screwfix handy.

Thanks for any pointers!


texts: What type of paint can be used over oil-based primer?

texts:
I don't remember what brand or type of paint was used in my kitchen about 9 years ago. One wall has developed some cracks and the paint has been coming off in brittle "chips" My kitchen gets very steamy a lot. Same paint on other 3 walls no problem...I have a gallon of oil primer still good from a previous small job I intend to use.

What paint will be best for use over the oil primer and have "flexibility ( not be "brittle")?? All the walls in my house were once painted with "calcimite" I discovered oil paint no longer made does the best for coverage and long term durability


texts: Can I use existing telephone wire as a pull for new cables?

texts:
I am moving into a new home shortly, built in the 1990s, and it has telephone jacks with POTS wiring that I do not plan on using. Ideally, I would love to run twisted pair cabling where the telephone wire is now, and just change the faceplate and jacks.

Can I use the telephone wire to pull some new pull wire or even the Ethernet cable itself? I have heard that telephone wire might be stapled to the frame behind the wall, and wondered if anyone has experience with this.


texts:
My gas furnace is in a dedicated "closet" inside the utility room.  The closest cold air return is about 5' away (laterally) in the ceiling of the hallway right by the bedrooms.  When the furnace lights you can hear significant combustion noise, and when the fan is blowing the air movement is loud, and fast enough to produce a slight whistling through the vent.

The area around the return vent looks like it's insulated, but the vertical duct (~8' long; it's an updraft furnace) gives a good ring when I thump it, so I think it is not.

Is there anything I can do to quiet the vent?  Would replacing the return duct with insulated ducting help?  I know a multi-speed blower would help, but this furnace is brand new (new construction).  Can I install a more restrictive vent and shift more of the return flow to the upstairs return (which doesn't seem to make any noise)?


texts: How to clean rust in hard to reach points on a tool?

texts: I have a cheap tool with some rust on it. It's probably cheaper to buy a new one than to clean it. But I wonder if is there any solution where I can drop it and retrieve it clean. Is there anything like a rust solvent?


texts:
I'm fitting 138mm skirting through a house. I can only find a mitre box  100mm high, or a clamping mitre box (where the timber lies horizontally) 120mm wide.

How can i cut the joints for of the skirting?


texts: Rewire wall switch to an on/off switch, for a ceiling fan that has nightlight, fan & lights?

texts:
How do I rewire a wall outlet to an on/off switch? It's for a ceiling fan that has a dim nightlight above the fan, and lights below the fan?
It also has a Hampton Bay remote.

Any thoughts from the pics.   Again,  trying to go from a multi light fan switch to a single on off switch. My Hampton Bay fan with a dimmer night light and a regular light is controlled by a remote.
Fan remote has three speeds. One button for night light & one for regular lights.
Multi  Wall switch has a black striped white wire on the back side at the top and the bottom is a black wire on the back side.  The light side has a blue wire on the back at the top  and in the middle at the bottom is the green stripe white wire, ground.

The blue light wire is connected to a red wire on the wall. The fans black stripe white wire is connected to a dark Gray wire on the wall. The  bottom black wire on the fan side is connected to a dark gray wall wire. The Green striped white wire is connected to the copper ground wire on the wall.

If you could help on  basically what wires in the wall to connect to the on off switch to make the nightlight, regular light, and fan speeds operate  when turning the on off switch on and using the remote.


texts: Are the risks of aluminum wiring reduced with higher-efficiency fixtures?

texts:
As you can see from my post history, I am blessed with a lovely home with aluminum wiring. I am also taking steps on every project to review and mitigate the risks of aluminum wiring by using proper pigtails or Alumiconn connectors.

The authoritative references on aluminum wiring seem to have been written at least a decade ago. Have the risks from aluminum wiring been mitigated to any extent by high-efficiency fixtures and appliances becoming more common?

My thought process is that an LED fixture will generate the same light with significantly less draw. This reduced draw reduces the heating and expansion of the wiring. The expansion and contraction is what causes the separation in AL and CU/AL joins. That separation then induces the sparking that gets people hurt.

My question is entirely focused on theory rather than application. Even if modern loads actually reduce the risk, it is still imperative to use the correct connectors and strategies with AL wiring. Using proper solutions, such as crimp connectors, AFCI breakers, and proper boxing nearly eliminates the risk which is far better than any theoretical reduction.


texts: How can I finish a ceiling around a propane gas line to fireplace?

texts:
There is a propane line that goes to our gas fireplace. We want to finish our basement with drywall to the ceiling. What should we do with that line first?
Thanks.


texts: Can earthing of a building degrade over time

texts: The building is almost 12 years old. We didn't have this problem before. But in this last 2-3 days some residents complained they have experienced shock coming form the pipeline of bathroom even after they shut down all the switches of MCB. I asked electrician he said the earthing of the building is damaged or degraded etc and needs to be changed.


texts: Cracks in Garage Floor Causes Cracks in Polyaspartic Garage Floor Coating

texts:
I recently applied a Polyaspartic coating on our garage floor. There are small but prevalent cracks in this coating, that appears to be caused by the small cracks in the concrete of the garage floor.
We did not seal our garage floor before applying the coating, as it was a new house (only 1-month-old). Each crack is about 1/16 of an inch.
I know I could use another lay, but since the multi-color chips have been put down, I am wondering if this second layer will peel.
Any solution will be appreciated.
Product Link
Below are some images:


texts: Is there a downside to leaving cavity in wall behind mirror?

texts:
I took the bathroom mirror off the exterior wall and discovered a cavity roughly 12" wide, 16" tall.  I'm guessing this used to be for a small recessed medicine cabinet.

Is there a problem leaving this cavity here?


texts: how to design and buy materials for breakfast bar/standing desk?

texts:
My girlfriend has given me an assignment: build a breakfast bar for the corner of the kitchen, with a tabletop that is 55" by 13". We would buy two stools to go with it. She wants me to build it myself so it's (a) as cheap as possible, and (b) exactly the way we want it. I have no experience with carpentry or DIY but I have a hammer and an electric screwdriver.

Is it feasible to build a breakfast bar that could double as a standing desk for me? This would involve positioning the tabletop so my MacBook would sit at eye height (55") and putting in a second shelf so my keyboard would be at arm height (36"). Would a breakfast bar that's 55" high look ridiculous?
If yes to #1, what's a good design that would accommodate a laptop on top and a second shelf for the keyboard?
Where can I buy the wood shelf/tabletop and legs? I live in New York, where Home Depot does not offer cut-to-fit services for wood. Ideally I could order online, and ideally the legs would come with a screw/bracket kit to attach them to the tabletop, the way these legs do, though I'd prefer wood legs if possible. As for the tabletop, no need for an expensive antique oak slab--just simple and beautiful light wood would do fine.


texts: can I use an unused y2 or w2 aux wire and connect to the C terminal

texts:
I got a new ecobee thermostat that requires a c wire. my current thermostat has 4 wires plugged in, and there are 2 extra wires not being used coming out of the wall one blue labled y2, and a brown one lableled w2 aux. they both have current flowing. Can I use either of these and connect to the c terminal?

[


texts: Pressure Reducing Valve at water meter--need some assistance--how install, what parts, tools. Newbie

texts:
How to put in PRV Valve 12 foot after home water meter.
Thanks for your kind help. I may end up hiring a plumber but for $600 that 2 neighbors spent, I wonder if this is something I can do myself or someone with more skills than I.

This is what 2 neighbors had put in, looks like it is PVC:

Questions:

3/4" Pipe is coming out of water meter. I cannot see if it is PEX or PVC. House was built in 2001, Thoughts????

.
2. If I use this type of PRV (below image) what parts/tools do I need to connect it?

If I use this type PRV (below image) what parts/tools would I need? Or would this not work the way the joints are?

I appreciate your knowledge and advice in advance

Thank you
Peter


texts:
We have recently had a new septic tank put in our house (about 3 months ago).  1 month after the works were complete, there started to be an overwhelming septic tank smell in the house.  There is only one room affected by the smell at the top floor, but the smell is overwhelming.

This shows the ventilation pipe that runs the house, the exit at top of house, and the room impacted from the outside:

We’ve searched in vain, including even ripping out wall panelling in this room for what might be causing it but haven’t been able to track it down.  The  smell is only coming into this one room at the very top of the house and I’m wondering if it is because this room is the closest to the septic tank ventilation pipe?  Any suggestions?  I know the name of our septic tank system, it’s called the “Clear fox” https://clearfox.com/en/domestic-wastewater-treatment/ and the ventilation pipe from the system follows the house roof vertically before it exits into the air at a pipe chimney at the roof apex.  This vertical ventilation pipe did not exist with the old ventilation system.  I did a smoke test, and the smoke did seem to exit the ventilation pipe at the top without a problem..

The vendor says it’s an internal house problem (however there was no internal septic tank smell before his works) so he is trying to pass the problem to me.


texts: Can I install a Honeywell WIFI Thermostat?

texts:
I have done quite a bit of research and have not been able to find an answer I am looking for. I currently have a manual digital thermostat that is not programmable made by Braeburn. My system is a Ground A/C unit outside, and my heater/air handler is up in the attic. My thermostat is wired the following way:

Jumper wire between R and RC
Red wire from wall to RC
B terminal on thermostat is empty
Blue wire from wall to O
Jumper wire from Y to W
Yellow wire from wall to Y
No wire to W other than Jumper
Green wire from wall to G
There is a spare wire from the wall harness to nothing as well.

I have not had a chance to go in the attic to check the labels on the air handler, but I am hoping there is an extra wire up there too so I can use it as a C wire.
I am curious how, or if I can use a WiFi thermostat or any other programmable for that matter. I have not come up with any leads yet, and don't want to screw things up before I start.