texts: New kitchen sink - not draining properly - could it be the way plumber connected pipes?

texts:
A plumber just installed my kitchen sink, however, it is not draining properly - it will overflow after just a few seconds. Im thinking there isnt enough pressure forcing the water down due to the downpipe having an immediate turn. He says it might be that my vent isnt connected ... however, it used to work prior and all other sinks on the floor work.

Any tips or observations would be appreciated :)


texts: Most durable paint type for baseboards and trim

texts:
I want to paint (by brush) some stair and baseboard trim in my basement.
I’m looking for the most durable type of paint, (not brand recommendations). It seems the higher the sheen the more durable. I would like something that is scuff resistant, can be washed, and  applied easily.
Also, can one apply a polyurethane coat over paint for more protection? Are paints available that contain polyurethane?


texts:
Direct Wire 4ft T8 were purchased and installed.  Is there a rule of thumb or recommended process to burn-in the bulbs?

Is there a good test or process to weed out 'infant mortality?'


texts: Take a look at picture of 2 switches , both are for single gang only (except left one is dimmer switch). As per NEC single pole switch device has fill volume of 2. My question is,  switch on the left is bigger than the one on right. Does it make difference in fill volume or both has same fill volume of 2.


texts: Voltage drop in receptacle circuit - options?

texts: This is new construction...concerned about voltage drop. The house is a ranch style.I am installing a breaker panel in my garage. I am currently running the wiring (12-2) on a 20 amp breaker for the outlets in my bedroom. Since I have quite a few doors I am going up and down the studs adding quite a bit of length to the furthest circuit. Furthest length approx. 160' . According to a voltage drop calculator 12 gauge should be run. The question I have is: Can I run 10-2 wire to the 1st receptacle in the room and then continue on with the remaining receptacles using 12-2 ? (I would end up with about 80' of 10 gauge to get to the bedroom and then the remainder 12 gauge.)


texts: Should I use Concrete dissolver or Muratic acid to remove splatter?

texts:
Concrete splattered all over the siding on my shed while I was mixing a batch for my patio.  I have done a light google search and seen there is muriatic acid and some kind of concrete dissolvers. What is the best procedure to do this?

muriatic acid

concrete dissolver


texts: What nail size for 1/2" bevel cedar siding?

texts:
I am replacing some bad sizing of the house using this siding

https://www.dunnlumber.com/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?pg=2600&pl1=2418&pid=23649

SDG12616BVL

Bevel Siding Cedar Aye/Clear Kiln Dried Vertical Grain 1/2x6-16

What would be the ideal nail size/type to install using this Hitachi nail gun?

(I think it is the Hitachi / Metabo HPT KNR9050A 3-1/2" Framing Nailer and 2" Brad Nailer Combo Kit)

Thanks


texts: Is it advisable to build a bathroom above the garage? What kind of obstacles might we face if there is a bathroom above the garage in terms of piping, insulation, etc.?


texts:
I want to build a concrete slab (upon which a deck will be build later) at the foot of a brick wall (by foot I don't mean the foundation foot, I just mean where the brick meets the grade level).  I hear that you can't make concrete and brick stick together.  How do I deal with it?  Do I leave a gap?  What about water in that gap?  Do I put some flashing?

Edit: There are also some practices about joints:

http://www.cement.org/tech/faq_joints.asp

This means have a joint but seal it, basically.  What do you think?

Note that I'll have a slight slope from the wall.  I'm still puzzled what to do.


texts:
I just found an outlet box in my house that seems to have been placed incorrectly, and because of this misplacement the top portion of my outlet is not pressing against the wall when I screw it in, causing it to jiggle within the outlet. Below is a picture of the outlet.

Hopefully you can see that when I press the top portion that it goes into the wall. Is there any way to fix this issue without replacing the whole box within the wall? Thank you.


texts: What is the correct placement of a 2nd story through-wall bathroom vent

texts:
I have a 2nd story bathroom which is a little too humid unless the window is left cracked all the time, greatly decreasing the efficiency of our HVAC system. I would like to install a bathroom fan with a timer switch but want to make sure the humid air is ventilated safely and in a code-compliant manner. Home is in california, if that makes a difference.
Venting through the roof is not an option, the 2nd story of our home is covered in solar panels and I don't want to risk damaging anything up there.
In the picture below I have highlighted possible locations for an external through-wall vent for the bathroom fan ducting. Locations #1 and #2 are clearly too close to the gable vent. Location #4 is also directly below the gable vent, which worries me that warm humid air may be drawn back into the attic.
Locations #3 and #5 seem like the best option available. Is there anything wrong with this approach? Would this be a violation of any building codes for a bathroom exhaust vent?


texts:
Looking for a single phase split bus load center No main required , and 100 amp is plenty big.
about 14 to 24 circuits total is large enough (12+- on each)
don't have room for a sub panel so I need the split bus to house the inverter circuits.
Anyone know where I could find on of these


texts: Disconnecting quick connect fitting while hose is pressurized

texts:
Tank is pressurized at 90psi. Attached to 50 feet 3/8 hose. Tool end of hose has a standard quick coupler. ( so its closed )

Is it "okay" to disconnect the male quick connect fitting from the tank? I understand the air in the hose is pressurized and air will come out, how bad can it be?


texts: How do I hang curtains on a cutout like this?

texts:
I have this cutout and was wondering how I would be able to hang some curtains without them looking out of place!

I was thinking putting a curtain and rod on the upper part before the cutout but wasn’t sure if there is something that can be done on the inside?
Thanks!


texts: How to repair a door with patches of stripped-off finish?

texts:
I was trying to replace the door knob on the bathroom door and for some reason the existing hole was too small so I enlarged the hole by clamping a piece of wood to the door and drilling though.  I drilled through the board and then continued through the door and it almost worked perfect.

To prevent damage to the other side of the door, I taped the area near the hole but when I peeled off the tape it peeled off the finish of the door!

Can anybody please help me out?

Here is a picture of the door....


texts: Water taps open and running water when I come home

texts: I've had two occurances where I've come home from work to find my bath taps open and gushing water, even though they were off when I left for work. First time it was both hot and cold taps, yesterday it was just the cold water tap. My plumber is puzzled and said the washers in the taps are fine. Anyone have any ideas or had this happen to you? Two plumbers I've spoken to have no idea. And the taps were definitely off when I left the flat.


texts: how critical are temperature and humidity when installing laminate floors?

texts:
We have a few dozen boxes of laminate flooring purchased a few weeks ago (Harmonics with Uniclic, if anyone's interested). These have been stored in an unfinished basement in central Minnesota, and are destined to be installed on the first floor. We generally don't use the air-conditioner in summer, unless humidity levels are uncomfortable. Effectively, first floor and basement are mostly similar in local comfort conditions.

In this scenario, how long should we let the laminate planks acclimatize to the first-floor weather conditions, considering that the basement isn't severely different in temperament?

Would just a few hours do, or should we really let the planks sit idle for a couple of days to make sure there won't be any future usage problems?

My intent in asking this question is to roughly figure out what sorts of temperature + RH tolerances are built in to laminate flooring, and how critical differences of a few degrees in temperature or a few percentage points in relative humidity are.

Edit: (hopefully) related questions: Will installing laminate floors in winter show any different results from a summer installation? Will I see any shrinkage around the baseboards, for example? Or will heavy furniture cause gaps between installed planks in winter?


texts:
These are the original lights in my 1984 house. They are in all 3 bathrooms, 11 total, in soffits above the sinks. They are 7" cans presently with BR30 45W, 65W, or 75W incandescent bulbs. The bulbs are getting to be harder to find, but for now I can still buy them. The cover is a frosted glass dome. The bulb protrudes slightly below the soffit into the dome.

All the LED BR30 replacements that I have found indicate that they should not be used in enclosed spaces. A 65W LED equivalent is only 11W, so I don't think that it will heat up too much. Maybe the life would be reduced somewhat.

All LED can retrofits that I have found are for 4" or 6" cans. It seems that 7" was never very common. Most of the retrofits are recessed, I really don't want a recessed spot, I want a very broad light so it will reflect off the mirror and provide some frontal lighting.

I have found some flat LED round panels that are designed to be mounted directly to the ceiling without a can. These should meet my broad light requirement, and if I can find one thin enough, this might work. None of these are made by the more respectable companies, that bothers me somewhat.

Any ideas? Maybe buy a BR30 LED and try it?


texts: Adding an outlet to an existing light switch: Can the outlet be switched along with the light?

texts: Is it possible add an outlet to an existing light switch where the outlet is switched along with the light? The switch is not at the end of the run. So far I've only been able to find answers where the outlet has constant power.


texts: Want to convert a garage 4 wire receptacle to standard 3 prong receptacle

texts:
I built a garage and electrician installed what a plug that won't receive my 250 volt appliances. The hardware store tells me it is a dryer plug and can't understand why it was installed in a garage. It is a NEMA 30 AMP (14-30R) 125/250 volt receptacle, with 4 holes.
So, I have 4 wires (red, black, white and bare ground) and need to set it up with the 3 prong plug they provided me.  It is a 30 AMP 250 Volt receptacle with 3 prongs holes. One of which is labeled ground.

How do I set this up - if I can?  Do both the 2 live wired go in one connection?


texts: Can a stud finder reliably detect HVAC sheetmetal?

texts: Thread title says it all. I'm installing can lights in a basement and want to make sure I clear the HVAC return when drilling holes. If a stud finder can't detect that, what's the best way to verify it's location?


texts: Pull power from an exhaust fan switch for heated bidet outlet

texts:
I installed a new wall outlet by pulling power from an existing exhaust fan switch via the load wire. Every time the bidet is used the light starts flickering.
Would swapping the line wire with load wire help stop the flickering?


texts: Water puddle in backyard causing leaking in garage concrete wall

texts:
This is what I saw in the backyard of a split level home after a light rain

The water was there due to overflow from gutter. I can clean the gutter but the puddle situation must be fixed as it will come back in some other way. The left side is concrete wall and here are photos of the other side which is the garage

Obviously someone tried to fix the leak by patching the crack with cement

I am not sure if this method works or not as I have not lived here for a full year yet to know.

Questions:

What to do about the water puddle problem? Should I dig a trend somewhere and how to create that structure?
If the leak is still there in the garage, what do I do about the crack? Any better way to fix the leak?

Thanks.


texts: How do I connect my new bathroom exhaust fan to the old duct that isn't lined up for the new fan?

texts:
The old fan died, and I'm trying to install a replacement. The old one was 80CFM, and, despite it working 24x7, the groundfloor bathroom was always a little damp.
The new one is a fancy Panasonic, rated 110CFM and with a humidity sensor too, so far so good.
However, installing proves difficult:

The existing exhaust air duct is 4" and was connected directly to the dead fan -- without the flexible part at the end. It protrudes right up to the edge of the fan's body -- the original installer worked before the sheetrock was installed...
The new fan's opening is several inches to the side compared to the old one -- not where the existing air duct terminates.
The duct is less than 15 feet long (vents to the wall) and rigid. It is attached to an aluminum strip half way through to the vent with a screw, which makes it impossible for me to force it far enough to the side to connect to the new fan.
I cannot reach that aluminum strip -- and the screw -- without opening up the ceiling, which I loath doing. I can see it, if I stick my head between the joists in the fan-cavity, but I cannot reach it from there.
It is tempting, since I'm messing with it all anyway, to also replace the 4" airduct with a 6" one. There is plenty of space between the joists for it, and the fan's own opening is 6" (it comes with a 6-to-4 reducer, which I don't have to use).

I think my options are:

Open up the vent cover on the outside -- the location is easy to reach from the ground -- and try using some tool on a long handle to either snap or saw the aluminum strip holding the existing duct (or the screw itself). Then -- pull the pipe out through the vent hole so it can be either replaced altogether (with a 6" one), or shortened. I'll then be able to add a 2'-long flexible sleeve to make it easy to connect to the new fan.
Try cutting away about 1' of the existing pipe on the inside, so that there is room to add the flexible sleeve. This would have to be done through the existing cavity (left by removal of the old fan). I can only squeeze one hand through that and will have to work blind...

Questions:

Are there tools, that would help me with either approach? For the 1st one, for example, I thought of getting a long-reach garden pruner to saw at the aluminum strip (or the screw itself) -- maybe, after replacing the blade with a metal-rated one. Is there something better? For the 2nd, what can be used to cut the pipe in situ -- with one hand?
Will installing a wider pipe really be beneficial -- or am I overrating the advantage of using a 6" exhaust compared to 4" one?
If I do decide to widen the airduct -- what's the simplest way to widen the hole in the siding (HardiePlank)?

Thank you!


texts: Switch Controls Outlet, Not Ceiling Light

texts: When we bought our house, the switch to the ceiling fan did not work, unless pushed to the side, or pushed in before being used. It seemed to be a simple enough task to replace the switch. However, the wires were not nicely labeled, and when installed, the ceiling light stays on while the outlets are controlled by the outlet. What I'd like to know is how to identify the "hot" wire coming to the room, and differentiate it from the "hot" wire the runs to the outlets and the "hot" wire that runs to the ceiling fan. My guess is that I switched the latter two.


texts: Will a widespread 8" offset faucet also replace an existing 12" offset faucet?

texts:
I have a bathroom faucet (image below) which I think is a widespread 12" (closer to 12 1/4"?) offset, if I am using the terminology correctly.
This faucet leaks profusely around the base of the hot/cold valves when it is used. I want to replace it with something I can get at one of the home repair box stores.
It is not clear to me whether I need to purchase a widespread faucet which has an offset of at least 12" … which frankly I rarely see offered for sale … or whether a widespread 8" offset faucet would also work. What should I be looking for?

Note:
I realize it may be possible to just repair the existing faucet. But why bother? It's from either the 1970s or earlier, corroded in spots, and just generally not worth saving if I have any other reasonably priced alternative.

Update: 04 August 2015
Just adding a bit more detail to expand on Aloysius Defenestrate's answer. It appears that the convention is to always (???) describe widespread facets as "8 inch".  One needs to dig a tad deeper to discover the more detailed installation truth.
Earlier today I looked at 5 different nominally 8" widespread faucets from 3 different manufacturers on the Home Depot website, I found that in the more detailed specification, all of them could apparently be installed in a wider range of offsets. More specifically …

3 of the faucets were 6" To 16" widespread (Delta)
1 of the faucets was 8" To 15" widespread (Pfister)
1 of the faucets was 6" To 12" widespread (Glacier)

To find this information I had to open a Specification PDF document provided on the item's detailed description page on the web site. Something I probably should have obviously realized to do on my own. But thanks for the needed push in the right direction.


texts:
I have this old but functional metal sliding door. Sometimes the sliding isn't very smooth and you need to push although it never gets stuck going either way.

There is one 90° guiding rail at the bottom. Lubricating it with machine oil does SOME performance enhancement but not by much or very long. I do scrape it clean frequently from settled dust and grime. Is there some kind of other treatment that I could apply to enhance sliding?


texts: Loss of power to several circuits at the same time without tripping the breaker

texts:
I have been experiencing flickering lights from time to time in the last few months. Now I am losing power to 4 circuits at once without the breakers being tripped. This is happening intermittently for several days now, maybe a couple of weeks as my children advise.
I have checked the breakers and they seems to work fine. It has been hard to trouble shoot because I have not been home when this has happened. Or, by the time I got to the panel the power restore itself?
However today I was home all day, so I removed the panel cover to be able to access it should the problem arise. When it did I ran to verify the breakers. all OK! When I took a reading of the "5" circuits that all lost power at the same time, I gor a reading of 24VAC at all of them? The rest of the circuite were reading 124VAC. When the power mysterious turned back on, the readings at the same 5 breakers was 119VAC.
It should be noted that all the problem circuits are on one leg of the panel? But not all the circuits in said leg are failing, or maybe not demanding power at that time?

What could be causing this anomolie??
Thank-you

PS. Our Power Utility "Power Supplier" has change the outdoor power meters from an older type to a newer smart meter last fall.


texts:
I recently replaced a dimmable light fixture with a new one.  When I opened up the box there were  4 black wires and 1 live white wire, 3 white wires and the ground wires.
I had to replace the box and undo the wiring. I've put them back together but now the light turns on when I flip the breaker but it stays on regardless of the switch position and the dimmer doesn't work.
I've done some reading to see what it could be but I can't seem to find why the lights won't comply.  Any help would be great.


texts: Should I refinish hardwood floor with scratches?

texts:
I am in a process to to get my hardwood refinished. The floor have few deep scratches and is of oak type hardwood. My question is:

1) Stain or not to Stain ?
   Is it a good idea to stain the hardwood floor if it have significant scratches. I think many of scratch will go away with sanding process, but i am still sceptic if staining can make the scratches more noticeable?

2) If after deep sanding i have surface imperfection in floor is "sanding + clear coat" will be better than "Sanding + Staining + clear coat?"


texts: How to keep a screened in porch from leaking

texts:
We recently had a contractor bail on us without finishing the addition to our home.  One of his many misdeeds was our screened in porch.  It is

On the second floor - above our new master bathroom
Encased floor to ceiling in screens - on two sides
The floor has about a 1.5 inch drop over 15 feet from side to side - going TOWARD the house
There is no flashing or anything like that

When there is a rainy wind the water collects in a puddle against the house and eventually makes it's way down to the new master bathroom, ruining drywall and other things.

What is the best way to fix this problem - my first guess is to rip up the floors and pour self-leveling compound to level the floor and then install a new subfloor over that with a slight raise on one side to tilt it the opposite direction (away from the house) and then put down new tile or flooring of some kind.

That method seems difficult and error prone.  And expensive.  Does anyone know of any good ways to fix the problem?


texts: Can 6x6 Glue Lamm Post be installed on the exterior and be exposed to the weather?

texts: Can I use a 6x6 glue lamm post as a support post for an upper deck and can this type of post be exposed to the outside elements (rain, snow, etc..)


texts: What is the actual function of the lock on a up can window handle?

texts:
I have upvc windows with the typical handle with push button and lock which rotates ninety degrees to engage/disengage the locking mechanism (3 bolts in the bottom of the window frame which engage with plates along the sill).
What I can’t work out is the actual purpose of the embedded lock in the handle (with key). When locked, it prevents the handle being used,  and this might be useful for security from the inside (eg if a toddler is roaming about) but it doesn’t seem to increase the security vs an attack from the outside.
Am I right or am I missing something?  Insurance companies seem to require these locks, I think, which suggests they have some purpose but I can’t see it.
One of my windows was recently levered open from the outside, which snapped the 3 plates on the sill. The embedded lock in the handle seems of no value to protect against this activity. Or am I being dumb?


texts:
I am looking to buy a hammer drill, but have no experience in this area. Everywhere I look, it seems that SDS/SDS+ is a universal chuck design, in that any SDS bit will work with any SDS drill and vice versa. Here, I mean the bit and drill will attach, not necessarily that the drill will have sufficient power to run the bit effectively, or anything like that.

My major holdup is that SDS drills seem to have advertised chuck sizes. How is this possible if the chuck is completely described by the fact that it is SDS?

For example, I was looking at the drill at the following link. It is SDS-plus, and so I should be able to use it with any SDS(-plus) bit. However, I am not comfortable buying it without knowing why it advertises a 5/8" chuck, as it is my understanding that it has an SDS chuck, and all SDS chucks are the same size.

http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-5263-21.html


texts: Turning fireplace from gas to wood burning

texts: We have a those that was originally built in 1977 and its built with brick with brick chimney and all. We believe it was originally built as a wood burning fireplace. How hard would it be to convert it back to a wood burning fireplace. I believe there's an insert that they used to turn it into gas. The problem is that gas has gone so high in price per gallon that it would be more cost effective for us to convert it back to a wood burning fireplace. What would we need to do?


texts:
In our (badly designed) flat the upstairs waste pipes run straight through our bedrooms.

It's a shame as the outer corridor is right next to our bedroom, so it would have been sensible to put it in there.

Any recomendations on sound proofing a waste pipe?

EDIT:

Thanks for BMitch's answer, I forgot to add the information that the waste pipe is already enclosed.


texts: My swamp cooler is leaving everything in the house black, why?

texts: It's a brand new swamp cooler. I've called the landlord twice to fix it he said the belt fell off the first time then the second time he said there's nothing is wrong. It's the same problem from before. I noticed it doesn't blow as hard as it did before. It's leaving everything black in the house the walls, stove, counters, and i just saw my white curtain black where the air goes through. I'll upload a picture of that. Any ideas what can be the problem? Nonsmoking household.


texts: Can I use rivets to attach electrical boxes to Purlins?

texts:
I'm attaching about 2 dozen electrical "handy" outlet boxes to a new workshop.  They will attach to the metal wall purlins, with the wires fed from the top through EMT conduit.  Instead of using self tappers to attach them I want to use stainless rivets.
I'm assuming this if fine (I can't find anything in code); but don't want to attract extra scrutiny from my inspector.
Here is the final result:

And on the "hoop" section walls of the Quonset:

More photos.  Where the boxes went to the "gap" side of the purlins, we attached a piece of c-channel to give us a mounting flat as on the switch box and lower dual duplex receptacles


texts: What is the weird wiring on these old light switches?

texts: Bedroom light switch, two of them but only on works to turn on the lights. There is a socket below it, and it gets it's power wires from this light switch box. The socket below has green and blue wires. There is no consistent color.


texts: Rimless toilets, and "not suitable for installation with flush valves"

texts:
We're looking to replace our old, cracked V&B Omnia Classic toilets with https://www.villeroy-boch.co.uk/bw/m/O.novo-Washdown-WC,-rimless--5660R0.html . The measurements of the important bits line up. Our old ones are not rimless, but these are. On the product page, it mentions:

DirectFlush. Sanitary porcelain. Also available in CeramicPlus. not suitable for installation with flush valves.

Does anybody know what "not suitable for installation with flush valves" means?

For what it's worth, our flush consists of:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00505EFFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the cistern

and

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0017VGWEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the flush panel.


texts: I'm replacing the under-sink pipes, and I'm confused what connector this is

texts:
I'm replacing the pipe under the sink after it cracked.

I thought I had figured everything out, but the connector I got doesn't fit due to this non-threaded copper bit above the threads, is it something I can remove with pliers, or should I try to unscrew further down and replace it from there?

New pipe is 3/8" COMP to 1/2" FIP


texts: Why does one outlet trip the breaker, but not others?

texts:
In my spare bedroom, there are four electrical outlets. If I use a vacuum cleaner in one of those outlets, the breaker trips. However, if I use any of the other outlets, it works fine. Is the outlet itself bad, or is there some other kind of wiring problem?
This breaker only powers the four outlets, a ceiling fan and light. I had the light (7W LED) on, and everything else off or unplugged.
All outlets show 120V Hot-Neutral, and 0 V Neutral-Ground.
The breaker is a 15A Combination Type AFCI Type BRAF.


texts:
In the process of replacing our carpets with laminate flooring, I originally elected to retain a 6' x 6' patch of vinyl at the front door. Living in Minnesota and hosting visitors even during our winters, I thought this would be a nice and practical solution to as-yet unknown potential wetness problems.

The problem is that this looks horrible, and it just makes a lot of sense for us to lay consistent flooring right up to the front door, and maybe throw on a rug or something similar at the entrance.

The vinyl sheet is attached to some sort of underlayment. I peeled off part of the vinyl (and scraped off some of the adhesive) and it looks like strips of some sort of plywood. Don't know if it's luaun or other material, but it's definitely cross-grained plywood. I do see staples in a few places, but don't know if such underlayment is typically also glued on.

This is on the first floor, above an unfinished basement.

What would be the best way of removing this, underlayment and all? Essentially, I need to make sure we have subfloor all the way so I can complete laying laminate here.

Here's a photo of the partially-peeled off vinyl:

I cut the vinyl sheet apart with an Exacto knife, and scraped off some of the adhesive. It isn't very obvious in the photo, but the underlayment looks to be laid in strips.


texts: Cutting a Custom Threshold: Best Tool for the Job?

texts:
I am in the process of creating a custom threshold to go from a tiled surface down to a carpeted surface. The tile is about an inch above the carpeted floor, so I decided to make a custom threshold in order to introduce a nice slope. This should help protect the exposed tile edge from too much stress and avoid a lot of stubbed toes, which were a problem with that transition even before the added height of the new tile.

To start, I glued together two 7'-long 1"x4" boards with a 1" offset. I want to cut along the length of these boards to create a nice angle for the transition. Here's an image of a very rough mock-up of the layout.

The problem comes with the longer cut on the boards. It's about a 4" deep cut and needs to be at approximately 30 degrees (from the base). I'm not sure which tool I should use for the cut. I think it's a bit too deep for most table saws and I'm not sure if that angle would be recommended on a band saw.

Does anyone have any advice on what tool would be best for this cut? Or, if there's a better way to smooth out a 7'-long, 1"-deep transition, I'd be open to trying something else. I'm willing to buy new machinery to pull this off, so almost any reasonable suggestion is fair game.


texts:
What is this  mechanism  on my door jamb called?
It’s screwed to the door frame where a striker plate would be, and acts like one, except the black plastic part retracts instead of the striker on the door.


texts: What is the proper procedure to apply multiple coats of Polyurethane?

texts:
Polyurethane is confusing me. ;)

I'm finishing a table top with polyurethane. I've sanded down the original finish to bare wood down to 220 grit paper.

I vacuumed and wiped it all down, then did a final wipe with a rag and some mineral spirits. After drying, I then put on the first coat.

It's been about 2 hours, and this is where I'm stumped.

The can says to re-apply coats after 2 hours, but doesn't say to sand. It does say that if you wait 24 hours, then you should sand.

Researching on the internet, the common advice appears to be sand between every coat.

So, the questions:

should one sand between every single coat?
how long should one wait before sanding?

My understanding of the can label is that multiple coats are fine after 2 hours WITHOUT sanding. They're also fine after 24 hours WITH sanding. Is that correct? Any thoughts on which method is better?

FWIW, this is a satin finish, as I'm purposefully trying to knock down any sheen to give it the barest-of-wood look I can, so super-smooth glossy isn't a priority on this project.

UPDATE: BONUS QUESTION!

What's everyone's opinion on 'with' vs. 'cross' grain bush application? Always go with the grain? Alternate between coats?


texts: what mil thick plastic to hang for dust management

texts: I'm planning a chimney demo and planning to hang plastic from floor to ceiling to section where I'm working from the rest of the house. What millimeter thick plastic would be best? I want something thick enough to work but not so heavy I can't tape it up with 2 inch blue painters tape.


texts: How to fix spotting caused by spray on acrylic sealer?

texts: My wife sanded, primed, painted, put vinyl stickers on and then attempted to seal an old coffee table for use in our kid's playroom. Unfortunately, the Mod Podge Acrylic Sealer caused spotting on the vinyl stickers and painted surface. Is there some way to fix the damage done by the acrylic sealer that doesn't involve starting the project over?


texts: T12 Fluorescent ballast bypass not working

texts:
I have a solid state electronic ballast that houses T12 Fluorescent tubes. Recently one of them burnt out and I want to change it to LED fluorescent tubes. I bought 2 Phillips universal fit tubes. I decided to remove the ballast to get real energy savings.
I followed multiple YouTube videos on the bypass process, but it isn't working for me. Every time I turn on the lights, nothing happens.
Can someone please point out what I'm doing wrong?
Here's how my current setup looks like

YouTube Videos I referenced:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqU3nuxc5w8&ab_channel=StarLed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPCI9eILwoA&ab_channel=motoforlyfe


texts: I have a faucet leaking from the anti syphon on the top. I need to replace the parts but don’t know the manufacturer. The original cap is long gone. It only has asse 1018 on the side. There are no other markings. Please help.


texts: How to wire 2nd light to existing circuit with light and two 3-way switches?

texts:
First time posting on the DIY of StackExchange. I currently have a staircase with a light on the 2nd floor controlled by 2 3-way switches on both floors. I would like to add an existing light to the currently-covered junction box on the 1st floor. However, when I looked at the existing wires in the first floor junction box, I was unable to find a combination of wires to which I could connect a 120V light that would function properly.

On the right part of the image I have diagrammed the 3 different terminals/twists (?) (each has at least two wires connecting) available. When I flip one of the 3-way switches to turn the 2nd floor light off (as pictured in top right), those are the voltages across the 3 terminals. Ditto for when light is on (pictured bottom right).

I also diagrammed the downstairs 3-way switch in case wiring there may need adjustment (ground not pictured) using a current detector to determine flow depending on state.

Addendum: 3-way switch on 2nd flr is wired in the same fashion. However, when 2nd Flr light is off, wire leading to either 1 OR 2 is hot only (!) (the two will reverse if the 1st floor switch is used to turn on the light). When 2nd Flr light is on, in all cases, none of the wires leading to 1, 2, or 3 are hot.

Can someone help elucidate what my current set-up looks like and what changes may be required?

 Outline/Potential across terminals

I am limited in number of links I can share, so I posted on a separate imgur thread: http://imgur.com/a/vEh3P


texts: My toilet tank has the tube going to the overflow but the overflow doesn't go to the bowl so I assume it goes down the drain. Is this ok. the bowl still fills up at each flush.


texts: Tee size in efficient flow splitting of main water supply

texts:
I am re-piping the water supply lines in my house. I have a 1 inch supply line coming from the main.  This will travel about 30 feet before being split into 2 lines, one supplying the hot and the other supplying the cold.

My intention is to run the 1 inch into the "top" of a copper tee then having 3/4 inch lines coming out from the two branches.

I could use a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1" reducing tee, but I am wondering if having a bigger tee would help in reducing pressure loss at the split.

For example, if I used a 2" x 2" x 1" tee with fitting reducers then taking the 2 inch down to 3/4 for the branches, would that help at all?

Or is there a better way than a tee to split the flow equally?

Thanks.


texts: Need advice if this wiring is okay (adding outlet into a run)

texts:
If I didn't live remotely and I could hire an electrician I would, but it's not an option where I live. So any help you can give, I really appreciate. Thank you. My existing wiring in my water closet has a light in the middle of a run, the wiring looks like this:

I have the need to add an outlet for a water filter (uses minimal power) Is it okay to drop in an outlet into the run, before or after the light? Example wiring scenarios:

or before the light:


texts: Can I install a receptacle outlet below a window?

texts: I need to add a receptacle outlet to an existing line.  I will run the line from an existing receptacle outlet.  Is it okay to locate the new outlet below an existing window?


texts:
I've noticed that in a properly (I assume) crimped Pex connection the tubing will rotate around the fitting it is crimped to - so that you have, in effect, a union.
So, I'm wondering:

Is that how it should be? And,
Can the connection be treated as a union? In other words, can you use the rotating property to use, say, make a PEX to NPT transition which might have to come apart without needing to install a union?


texts: Help: Wiring 220V in garage to NEMA 10-30r because MIG welder and air compressor have 10-30p

texts:
I've reviewed many articles on this website as they've been referred by my Google searches. But most have been about dryers.

I have an older air compressor (240V, 60Hz, 15A, 5hp) and a MIG welder (230V, 60Hz, 21A) that both have NEMA 10-30p on their cables. I picked up a 10-30r and 10/2 Romex for this dedicated circuit (dedicated to these two shop items) as per the directions of a couple floor staffers at Lowe's. I've already run 1-1/4" PVC conduit and this 10/2 wire from the sub panel in the garage to the central beam where I'm placing my receptacle.

Have I started off on the wrong foot? Or can I make this work? [Other threads here read as if code says I can't even use NEMA 10-30r in new wiring (since 1996)].

Should I have purchased 10/3 cable?

How would I adapt my three wire cable from the compressor and MIG to a four wire NEMA 6-30?

I have pics if they'll help.


texts: How can I prevent a screw from slipping on a slippery veneer surface when I try to screw it in?

texts:
When using a screwdriver this can be difficult as the screw tends to slip.
Once the screw passes the veneer it is easy to finish screwing in...
I'm looking for an easy way to get the screw past the veneer surface.

Is there a tool for this? (Say, a screwdriver with its tip shaped like a screw?


texts: What type of primer is required for pine?

texts:
I bought a gallon of Zinsser, low-odor, stain-and-odor-blocking, oil-based, primer. We bought it primarily for the subfloor we found after tearing out the carpet and seeing some various pet stains.

I also built a new mantle as part of the room remodel out of pine. It's quality pine, but still a knot or two. Is any oil based primer sufficient to fully cover pine or do I need to go with some special just for pine?


texts: How do I add an outlet between two other outlets?

texts:
I would like to place my tv in between two outlets on my wall.  The TV will be far enough from either outlet that I would need to run an extension cord which doesn't seem like a good permanent solution.  To bring power where I need it, I would like to add an outlet between the existing two.

These outlets are on a finished, exterior wall (with the existing outlets and proposed new outlet on the inside).  They are 12/3 Romex (best guess on gauge) and the outlets are all half switched.  I believe that the two outlets I would like to add the new outlet between are in sequence on the circuit though I'm not sure how to confirm this before cutting the wall.

My plan was to cut the hole in the drywall for my new box and outlet and split the romex there for my new outlet.  However, if I cut the romex there, it probably doesn't have enough slack to wire the new outlet and remain connected to the two existing outlets.

So what is the best way for me to add a new outlet in the desired location?  I've seen plenty of tutorials on adding an outlet at the end of a sequence or off of one existing outlet but I haven't been able to find information on my scenario.

EDIT - Additional information:

The walls have a mud swirl finish that will be nearly impossible to match (as far as I know).  Because of this, I'd really like to just add a box.
I do have attic access. Would it be better to run from the first outlet up to the attic and over and down for the new outlet and to reconnect the existing outlet?


texts: Sealing OSB subfloor from moisture? Patching small gouges?

texts:
What are some methods that can be used to seal an OSB subfloor from moisture? And patch small gouges (quarter sized)?

Background:  Small Bathroom remodel.  Tile came up with finger pressure, underneath was Gypsum Concrete (Gyp-Crete or Pyrofill).  It was crumbled, mildewed and in loose chunks two foot around the tub, and a foot around toilet and vanity.  Removed it all to the door threshold to set new tiles.  OSB is in great shape, but there is a tiny bit of mildew on the surface in a few spots and some small gouges where the Gyp-Crete took up a quarter-sized strand.  Will either go with HardieBacker 500 or self-leveling concrete to raise floor up to height to tile.  To remove the mildew, I've done light sanding and sprayed bleach solution and spread it with a rag.  I plan to fill the gouges with epoxy (unless there is a cheaper recommendation. Epoxy is a bit on the pricey side).  I'd like to moisture seal the OSB also since moisture has found it's way down there in the past.

Edit:  Decided to go with Durham's Water Putty.  $2 for 1 lb. of powder that never dries out.  Least expensive option I could find.

Safety Note:  Gypsum Concrete contains silica which can cause silicosis.  If you're going to remove it use a respirator, the type with the rubber face seal and replaceable >= N95 cartridges.  Spray bottle water all over the Gyp-Crete before removing it. Don't cut with a saw or hammer it all out.  Take a painter's tool with a hammer butt or a chisel, and chisel all around the edges of the room, and the pieces will lift out and pry up.  Hammering the Gyp-Crete makes lots of dust, and may make fracture lines a few feet long.  Possibly where you don't want it broken.  When it's all out, spray more water and use a wet rag to clean up the dust/debris.  Sweeping or vacuuming with a shop-vac will put all the dust in the air == bad.


texts: What size transformer do I need to power a ¾" 24VAC solenoid valve?

texts:
I am trying to automate the irrigation and I read that buying a 24 VAC solenoid valve normally closed would be the best. 12V ones being less reliable due to heat and the big-AC ones clearly not passing safety regulations.

I found lots of decent prices like http://s.aliexpress.com/iq6vMnQr but somehow they missed to write what transformer do I need to power one or two. I dont want to spend too much the 220v AC to 24v AC, so I need to know how powerful it should be.


texts: Why won't hot water come after timer of recirculating pump is off?

texts:
About a year ago, we had a Grundfos recirculating pump installed. We use a timer on it for morning showers. Recently, after the timer goes off, and someone needs to use the master bath shower later, no hot water comes even after waiting quite a while.  There is hot water in the other bathrooms and kitchen sink. Any suggestions about why this is happening?
Thank you.


texts: What's the purpose of the throttle and the gears on a snow blower?

texts: I know they make it run and move faster....but mine cruises pretty fast in 1st gear, I can't ever imagine having to use 4th gear. Should it be in 4th gear for higher and more snow so it will shoot it farther....or does the gear not matter for that?


texts: Why am i having problems bending an offset on the 2nd marker for an 1 inch marker for 10 degrees? Either I'm weak or is there a chart for using 10 degrees, 22.5 degrees, 30 degrees, etc for the appropriate inches to match the degrees to bend. i followed what was on my Klein bender. Which is 6 1/16 (including shrinkage) apart. I did make a 90 degree first on a five foot pipe. So please any advise will be appreciated. I look at youtube videos but it doesn't address this problem. And yes it was perpendicular from my body with my foot holding the bottom of the bender against my right foot. Thank you.


texts: Simple & Cheap dance floor instead of carpet

texts:
I'm having a large group over for a party. Since my living room is carpeted, I'm trying to think of clever ways to create a nicer dance floor than the carpet. One thought was two 8x4 pieces of plywood with the smooth side up to make an 8x8 foot floor. The problem then is how to join them along the 8' seem?

Any other ideas are also appreciated. Although the google results are for making more complicated traditional dance floors. I'm not trying to go all out. I'm just exploring options for something quick and easy that's better than carpet.

Thanks in advance!!


texts: How can I get my cupboard doors to close after installing new hinges?

texts: I'm installing NEW hinges and painting cupboards.  I could not find hinges that matched the old 28 year old ones, so have new hinges.  These are not hinges that have the part that goes into the wood - they're just plain hinges.  However, once installed in what appears to be the correct location, the doors refuse to stay shut.  They pop open about an inch.  It would seem that maybe the hinges are too tight, but I can't figure this out at all. I can't leave them as is, because it's even more unsightly than before.  Called a male friend who has a lot of mechanical/handyman/household experience, and he couldn't figure it out either.  I hate to hammer on these new hinges and make things worse.  Suggestions?


texts: Are these simple water shut-off valves reversible?

texts:
I bought a valve for which the seller has posted a picture that shows that the male side of the valve goes into shower hose and the female side of the valve goes into shower handle:

However, I am questioning if that picture is correct, because the filter net that came with the valve can be put only on valve's female side:

And best to my knowledge, these filter nets are there with purpose to stop debris from entering valve shutoff mechanism that could cause fail-open situation. Which clearly is not the case here.

So my question is - Is the picture posted by seller incorrect? Can I install the valve the way I think is correct instead by using a wall mount shower head that has the opposite-gender thread compared to a handheld shower head?:


texts:
I am building a wall cabinet with downlights in the shelves, for which I would like to use MR16 LEDs. However, my first attempt was obviously deficient, since two of the LEDs blew. I'd appreciate some help to figure out a) what went wrong, and b) what I need to install them properly.

As you can hopefully see in the image above, I have a single transformer, which has the following specifications:

Electronic Transformer for LV-Halogen Lamps
PRI: 220-240V ~50Hz 0.27A
SEC: 11.5V~ 10-60W λ=0.99

I have four 12V, 4W MR16 LEDs wired in parallel to the transformer. When I connected them all up to the power, they seemed to burn fine, without any noticeable flicker; after about 30 min, one of the lights went out, and I thought it might have been my wiring. After another 10 min or so, another light blew with an audible pop. At that point I realised there was something wrong with my setup and switched it off.

When all four LEDs were burning, and when only three were working, I took some voltage readings, which were around 4.5-4.6V (nowhere near the expected 12V).

I have considered 4 possible issues here:

1) The LEDs are expecting DC input, and are getting fried by the AC current. When I bought the transformer (from the same store that sold me the LEDs), I specifically asked if I needed a DC transformer, and the assistant replied that they didn't have any other kind of transformer, and that this was what they used in their in-store demonstration arrays. The LED packaging makes no mention of whether they need AC or DC current.

2) The LEDs are wired in parallel, when they need to be wired in series to give the necessary resistance for the transformer to work.

3) The LEDs are too far from the transformer, resulting in voltage drop (the maximum distance is about 1.5-2m).

4) The transformer is faulty.

I don't have the knowledge to diagnose which of these issues (or combination thereof) is at fault here, so any advice will be gratefully received.

Edit: I am in South Africa, with 220V AC mains electrical supply.


texts: Why does top of plug on power cord for Frigidaire refrigerator smell but doesn't get warm when plugged in?

texts: There seems to be a smell coming from the top of the plug on a power cord for my Frigidaire refrigerator, but it isn't warm or hot.


texts: So I am trying to identify all of my breaks in the panel.  There is this one that I have no idea what it serves.  I am hoping that someone could shed some light on what this might be referring to?


texts: How to remove glue from a CD/DVD plastic case

texts: I need to remove some glue/adhesive residue from CD/DVD plastic cases (not from CD/DVD themselves). I tried with acetone but it ruined the plastic case (from transparent it became white). Which product should I try instead?


texts: Pressure flushing a hot water heater when it's below the main drain of the house

texts:
Our water heater (30 gal State gas tank, '04 edition) is quite overdue for a flush at bare minimum.  I was planning on doing a pressure flush with the hot side closed off, the gas valve set to "pilot", and the cold side left fully open; however, the tank sits below the level of the main drain (as does the rest of the furnace room floor) -- the only gravity drain available for it is via a sump (with the obligatory sump pump).

Is it OK to flush a water heater into a sump pump, or is the risk of clogging the pump with sediment and possibly wrecking it too great?  Should I try to route the drain hose "uphill" to the one window in the room and then out the window onto the lawn?  Should I route the hose into something that can "catch" the sediment and then drain that container to the sump?


texts: Why is the water vessel overflowing on my air conditioner?

texts: The ac keeps on  leaking and now there is a bubble formed underneath it. Is there any way to fix this right now?


texts: How to clean gray paint from copper pipe for push-in fitting?

texts:
I currently have old radiators and connected 1/2" copper pipes that were painted in grey color long time ago (assuming when heating was put in place). One pipe has developed a leak and need to replace about a foot or so.

I'm going to be using push-in SharkBite coupling. How to I clean the paint off copper pipe?


texts: Is it bad to have multiple grounding electrodes?

texts:
I think this question gets close to answering my question, but I am not quite sure. I have a detached structure, powered by a feeder from the main panel where the ground and neutral are bonded. The ground there goes to a grounding electrode (and also to the water main).
On my detached structure, the ground busbar is connected to the main panel's ground busbar, but not to any other grounding source at the detached structure. If I have a copper water pipe coming in, would it be a bad idea to connect a jumper from it to the ground busbar in my detached structure's subpanel? I think that would be appropriate under NEC 250.52(A)(1) since it runs underground for more than 10'.
Also, if it is a good idea (or required) to bond it to my subpanel ground busbar, does it need to be a dedicated wire going from the bonding strap to the busbar, or can I connect it to the EGC on a nearby receptacle?
EDIT: I think I found that NEC 250.64(C) requires a continuous wire from the grounding strap on the electrode to the busbar in the subpanel, if I am reading it correctly.
Also, it looks like NEC 250.32(B)(1) should settle this question, but in one part it says

An equipment grounding conductor, as described in 250.188 shall be run with the supply conductors and be connected to the building or structure disconnecting means and to the grounding electrode(s).
...
Any installed neutral grounded conductor shall not be connected to the equipment grounding conductor or to the grounding electrode(s).

So this just makes it more confusing.


texts: Identify neutral and ground, when no color code is present

texts:
I have a nasty situation in my new apartment: someone (previously), when installing light switches must have randomly connected 3 wires, without giving a respect to a usual color coding.
Now I have:
red, yellow-green, white.
The problem is, when you turn on the switch, yellow-green (which is supposed to be ground), becomes hot. So in order to properly attach my lamp I need to know which of two remaining is ground and neutral.
I don't want to go with "trial and error", i.e. attach to some position and see if you protection will be blown out, then swap, as this may be a dangerous option, when (and this can happen), a neutral gets disconnected at the switch, and not the hot one, which will all lead to a happy burndown. I don't want to take chances.
What should you do?


texts: What's the difference between pottery plaster and plaster used on interior walls?

texts: My wife is an artist, so when we needed an interior wall plastering she did it, using her pottery plaster (not plaster of Paris). When we told a friend he laughed and suggested we get some wall plaster from a shop. What's the difference? Just cosmetic/cost/ease of use, or is it actually a bad thing to have on our walls?


texts: Why do I detect voltage on my ground of surge protector?

texts:
Renting an older home and upon moving in was saddened to see outlets without grounds (two prongs). So, for one of the outlets I bought a 2 to 3 prong with ground clip and ran the ground to some vent duct work (resistance was less than 20 ohms per recommendations I've read).  After plugging in surge protector (ground light turns on) and plugging in a two pronged TV, everything works, however, I was surprised to find that my voltage detector picked up energy on ground. It's not 110V, but its something, not 100% sure how much because my meter is broken.

Is this normal? Is this just the surge protector should bring extra fluctuations down the ground? The strange part is this only happens when I actually plug a device into the surge protector.


texts: How to cover a rectangle with least number of convex polygons cut from sheets of given size

texts:
I'm designing a big door -- a rectangle sized 3*2.6 meters.  (7.8 square meters).

Given that the material I'm going with is OSB, which comes in 2.5*1.25 m. (3.125 sq.m.) sheets. Is there a tool/method to devise a cutting plan that'd use the least number of polygons to cover the rectangle?
UPD: Inspired by the answer:
The smallest I've got to is with 5 rectangles cut out from 3 pieces of OSB:


texts: Why do I have to seal my bath screen from the outside?

texts:
I bought a pivoting bath screen. In the documentation that comes with it they say to seal it from the outside. They even put an exclamation mark !

What's the logic behind that?


texts: Carrier AC Air Handler Model #FC4DNF060 Filter Access Panel

texts: I have a Carrier AC Air Handler Model #FC4DNF060.  The filter access panel is blocked as shown in the photo (at bottom of unit).  Has anyone had a similar situation or advice on how I might be able to access in order to change the filter?  Thank you.


texts: Is this buzzing noise coming from various outlets around the house normal?

texts:
This morning I became aware of a little clicking noise coming from my inductive phone charger. I realised I'd been hearing it for a while. While I was changing, I noticed a high-pitch noise coming from my wife's Sony charger. Then later in the kitchen, a buzzing noise coming from the socket the microwave was connected to. All around the house, various sockets buzz.

Is this normal? I've checked my voltage using a meter plug, and it fluctuates between about 236.5 and 237.5*, which is normal enough according to the electrical company (who's operating range is 207 - 253 Volts)

*Before anyone freaks out, I'm in Ireland. We use 230v electricity over here.


texts: What kind of threshold for this door - inswing - exterior - concrete - dricore?

texts:
What kind of threshold might work for this 1938 exterior door?  It's actually an interior door, and it is exposed directly to weather (there's no porch or overhang).  If it were modern wood, it would be rotted by now, but it's the good old stuff.

What's new are 1" thick Dricore tiles coming right up to the door, with carpet to follow.  The door will be cut short to accommodate the height.  But it needs a new threshold.

The subfloor tiles are 1" high, the door is 1 1/2" thick, the distance from door edge to the concrete edge is 4", carpet thickness is tbd.

The local big box has a product that fits, but with ready-to-rot pine below and really dodgy screws and minimal thermal break:

Or this Pemko product, completely without a thermal barrier:

See also exterior door threshold over distinct concrete slabs at different grades


texts: Why can't I get this plastic drywall anchor into the hole?

texts:
I bought drywall anchors to hang a curtain rod, and followed the directions on the package (use 1/4" drill bit to make the hole for the anchor, then push it in). When I push, it won't go. If I try to lightly tap it with a hammer, the plastic anchor just deforms and it doesn't go any further. I don't want to make the hole bigger than what they specified on the package - what could I be doing wrong?

Or maybe these plastic anchors are just junk?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Triple-Grip-8-x-1-1-4-in-Anchors-with-White-Screws-5-Pack-178S/202531180


texts: is it legal to have the air intake (for heater and ac) coming from outside in CA?

texts: Our apt. building has the heater and ac air intake outside (collecting air from our driveway) in stead of coming from inside. is this legal?


texts:
I'm looking at buying a home that only has a 100 AMP service. I would like to have a small woodworking shop in the basement, but am worried that this will be too much for the service. While upgrading the service wouldn't be very difficult, it is an older home so pulling a permit would be a nightmare.

As for what is in the house. It has all gas appliances (oven, range, furnace, water heater, dryer) The major electric appliances are two fridges, the air conditioner, a whole house fan, a dishwasher, and a coffee maker. A lot of the appliances I can choose to run or not, but I'm concerned about the AC and fridges that may kick on periodically without my knowledge.

As for the wood shop, I can wire a lot of the equipment 220, so that should help. And I will only every be running two things at a time (dust collector and whichever other tool).

How much trouble should I expect with this setup. Has anyone experienced anything similar?


texts: Do you strip the outer sheath on romex when it enters a load center / breaker box?

texts:
I am doing all my own wiring on a new outbuilding (my well pump house) to save money.  I want to have an electrician come in afterwards and simply verify that it was done correctly.

When you run romex from an outlet back to the breaker box, do you strip the yellow outer sheath off where it enters the breaker box, or do you only strip the last few inches to expose the hot, neutral, and ground so you can strip them and make your connection?

In other words, does the yellow outer sheath extend well into the breaker box?


texts: Tear out regular mesh Fiba tape in tub setting?

texts:
I recently used mesh tape on all cement board corners on a tub area I’m about to tile.  I didn’t realize there was mesh tape specifically designed for cement board. I just used the regular stuff for drywall and got everything finished and ready for tile using my thin set. It looks good and feels sturdy, but am I going to have major long-term consequences with the tape itself breaking down? This is a tub area, not shower, and it’s not going to be highly used.

Do I need to chisel it all out and redo those corners with the alkali resistant mesh tape? Or am I probably good?


texts: Electrical Outlet/Switch Cover Vanity Plate Screw Issues

texts:
I am taking the time to update all of my outlets and switches in my home since they are 14+ years old or older and most of them are the METALLIC and NOT NYLON and have the vanity/cover plate entirely painted over and its taking me about 20 minutes of futile finagling of unscrewing the slotted screws (slots caked to the brim with paint) on EACH OUTLET/SWITCH, my issue and question to you awesome Goobers is,
Is there a safe, fast and efficient method to remove these paint filled vanity/cover plate slotted screws from the outlets and switches ?
Thank you in Advanced !!


texts: What can I do about my leaking washing machine faucet?

texts:
I recently hooked up a new washing machine to the faucets in my sink. They mostly work well, but both of the faucets drip slowly when there's water flowing through them.

What can I do? I've tried tightening the washer hose, but to no avail. Do I need to replace the faucet? Are there things I should look at before bringing in a plumber?

Right now, I just turn the faucets off after doing a load of laundry, but that's really not ideal.


texts: I have a 3 zone boiler system with baseboard heating. Zone 1 & 2 have nest thermostats, zone3 has a non-programable thermostat. Zone 2 & 3 are not getting hot. Pipes are hot about 3-4 feet out in the basement, but arent hot To the return Or past the zone valve. All zone valves are in An open manual position but there’s still no heat in 2 & 3.  I thought there may be air in the system and purged the system. When purging I did it zone 3, 2, 1. There are no air release valves on any of the baseboards So I have to purge the system from the basement (lowest point). I’m  trying to find out if there is an order I should purge the system. In the 1st purge I did 3rd floor first, 2nd floor, then 1st floor and  turned the System back on. 2nd and 3rd are still not heating. Should I try again In a specific order?  Tyia!


texts:
I have hinges that look like the below photo on a bedroom door. I saw some guides online suggesting you can bend the hinge to prevent the door from swinging open by itself, but I couldn’t even figure out how to remove the pins from these hinges.

So, three questions.

What type of hinge is this?
How do I remove the hinge pins?
Most importantly, how might I adjust this, to prevent the door always swining open?


texts: Why is there a hole in my basement wall?

texts: I just bought a house & I am curious as to what or why there is a hole in my basement wall. Inside is just the foundation wall and dirt floor. Why would a builder create such a thing? Can the area be finished & habitable? Can you dig deeper & create another level?


texts: How do you remove a Carrier / Bryant Infinity thermostat control from the wall?

texts:
I have a Carrier Infinity system with model # SYSTXCCUID01-V thermostat/control. I need to temporarily remove it from the wall.

I found a diagram of how to install it:

(diagram source)

I do not know how to release the interlocking tabs. It feels very tight and I don't want to break it.


texts: What equipment is needed to drill into high carbon steel?

texts:
I need to expand an existing 6 mm hole to 8 mm, through a thin, but strong sheet of high carbon steel. The hole should be drilled very straight and cleanly.

Can a hand crank drill (such as the one shown here) and regular wood-drilling bits be used? Or do I need to buy an electric drill or some special kind of bits? If the hand crank drill and ordinary drill bit are unsuitable, what tools will I need to get?


texts: Flashing /waterproof for wires going through roof gable

texts:
I am in the process of replacing my siding and found an odd (read: wtf) spot where wires are coming through the roof to a porch below. It looks like they just put a hole through the roof/shingles but it’s at an interesting spot where I’m not sure how to best seal it and waterproof. It’s about 5” from the adjoining wall of the second story of the colonial.
Debating using something like flashing for vent pipe/conduit but don’t really see a solid solution.


texts: Is it affordable and reasonable to create a tub using tile

texts: I'm considering purchasing a house where I'd want to remodel the bathroom. I know there are plenty of plastic and freestanding options for tubs but I can't find any resources for using tile and grout to create a tub.


texts:
I have a tube light above my kitchen's electric cooking range . It is a Philips light that has "F15T8/CW/24" written on it. I think that it's this product.

Are the below guesses correct?

"F15" means 15 watts.
"24" means 24-inch length.

What does "T8" mean?

Would it be possible to provide a higher-watt alternative? I would prefer an Amazon link. I've tried to search but didn't get good results.

update 1--------------------------------------------------------------------

I was able to get 24 watts tube light for the same set up. I bought it from the local Lowe's


texts:
Our ceiling fan's pull cord broke off into the mechanism that controls off to speed 3. When trying to get to the remaining beaded cord, the actual mechanism broke. Now we have loose exposed wires. What are my options to just protect the now loose wires from touch metal or other wires. Do I need wire caps? Is there any quick solution to leave it as is safely for now?  Thanks.

Brown, Purple, Grey, Black are exposed.


texts: What is the difference between floor and subfloor? Is subfloor a part of floor?

texts:
Consider the following image (img_1)

I guess the whole thing is called a floor framing system and subfloor is a part of the system. So subfloor is a part of floor. is my understanding right?


texts: New Gas Double Oven:The GFI suddenly started tripping during preheat

texts:
I installed new gas double oven using the same line from prior electric oven. Installed new 20 amp breaker and new 20 GFI outlet.
The GFI  outlet is tripping every time i preheat oven.
Is there something wrong with the wire?


texts: Connecting well to home using water hose

texts: I had a new well pump installed they used 1 inch tubing and connected it to my 3/4 water lines....it has popped all my joints and flooded my back yard.  Had to shut power off to the pump and stop all water. How can I lay a new water line above ground connecting my well pump to my house?


texts: Why don't conduit fill rules apply to cables encased in closed-cell foam?

texts:
I have a question that is more theoretical in nature. I know that when you have 14/2 cable and put it in a 1/2 conduit you are above fill (or just at max fill). The NEC cites that this is in part due to heat dissipation.

  300.17 Number and Size of Conductors in Raceway. The number and size of conductors in any raceway shall not be more than will permit
  dissipation of the heat and ready installation or withdrawal of the
  conductors without damage to the conductors or to their insulation.

Consider a close-celled foam installation:

The cables are usually entirely encased in the stud-bays (even less clearance than in 1/2 conduit), and while foam is a good insulator it is a bad heat-sink; it doesn't allow good heat-dissipation due to there being little to no air.

Since I've seen a few foam installations where the cable is completely covered there must not be a code regarding it, and I was just wondering why? Doesn't the foam pose an issue for heat dissipation?

Please when answering cite official sources if at all possible and don't rely on conjecture.

Additional section of interest:

310.15.3

  (3) The rate at which generated heat dissipates into the ambient
  medium. Thermal insulation that covers or surrounds conductors affects
  the rate of heat dissipation. (4) Adjacent load-carrying conductors —
  adjacent conductors have the dual effect of raising the ambient
  temperature and impeding heat dissipation.


texts: RV Pedestal - 20 AMP GFCI & 50 AMP 14-50 in same 2 Gang Box?

texts:
I'm installing an RV pedestal at my home. Out-of-the-box pedestals are not available. I'm using a 70 AMP outdoor main lug load center (HOM24L880RBCP), and a quad 2-20A 1P, 1-50A 1P breaker to feed two receptacles. Namely a 20 AMP GFCI and 50A 14-50R.
My question, Does NEC allow, and is it kosher, to install two separate circuits that are 50A and 20A in the same 2 gang box? If so, do they need to be de-rated?
I'll be using 6 AWG THHN and 12 AWG THHN between the load center and the box ~ 6 inches away.
Thanks for the help.


texts: Got too aggressive with steel wool on pavers, how can I make this look right?

texts:
A friend of mine suggested using steel wool to remove stains from paver stones. This turned out to be a pretty dumb thing to do. Many of the pavers have been obviously smoothed out and the color is slighly lighter (the same color, but lighter) than the surface color. The result is that many of the stones have a splotchiness to them with a big splotch right where I applied the steel wool.

I'm thinking now that the damage is done, I should just steel-wool the whole stone to make the noticable stones at least consistent. But I'm really nervous about applying steel wool again and making things worse. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?


texts: Can I steal power to power up new recessed lighting from a switch box that has a 2 pole switch?

texts: I'm installing recessed lighting in my living room, and I had to run the new light wires down the wall to obtain a power source and the switch box for the power source is right at the stairs and the switch for the stair lights is a 2 pole with the connected/ matching switch at the top of the stairs. I have it all wired up but the 2pole switch that controls the stairs light also turns on the new recessed lights, but I have have a lytton Cassetta switch and this switch also works to control the recessed lights. How do I wire up so the single pole cassetta switch works separately from the stairs switch. Also I was thinking to open up the top of the stairs light switch box and install a cassette pico with to sync with a cassetta switch for the bottom of stairs but how do I wire it hot for the bottom of the stairs bc the pico switch just syncs and controls the bottom switch. on the 2 pole switch theres a red, white, blk, & ground. Thanks everyone!


texts: Do I need to use a waterproof sealant in my entryway?

texts: Do I need to use a waterproof sealant in my entryway, over the backerboard and under the porcelain tile or is the thinset adequate?  Sub floor is above grade, 3/4" plywood. thanks!


texts:
I have some large cabinet doors (3 hinges on each door) which I recently installed new soft-close hinges however the left side the bottom of the door won't close and on the right side the top of the door won't close.  This causes the cabinet doors to both angle and not be completely flat and aligned with each other.

Soft Close hinges from Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-35-mm-105-Degree-1-1-4-in-Overlay-Soft-Close-Cabinet-Hinge-5-Pairs-H1531SE-NP-U1/302854550

Is there anything I can do to get the doors to close?  Do I need to bend the hinges or anything?

Additional Information

Adjusted the left / right, up / down, and forward / backward positions, but the bottom right portion of the left cabinet is still not closing and sticks out a bit and the right cabinet door on the top left isn't closing.  In terms of left / right and up / down those are adjusted "correctly".  In terms of forward and backward, there seems to be some deviations that can't be corrected with the forward / backward adjustments or the deviation is too much for the max / min adjustment limits.


texts:
The toilet fills with water when flushed, but it doesn’t go down.

Here’s some info:

-it’s been over a week. I can’t afford a plumber.

-the house is on a concrete slab. The pipes are in or under that.

-As far as I know, no foreign object was flushed. I don’t have little kids that would drop something down there and we don’t keep anything on the back of the toilet.

-the bathtub and the bathroom sink both drain. The sink drains slowly, but since they do, we don’t think it’s a main line issue.

-I think my dad broke the wax ring plunging. It leaks like a mofo now.

-I’ve used Rid-x and something that’s blue crystals and is meant to dissolve organic matter. The blue stuff primarily just leaked all over my floor, so no idea how much use that ended up being.

-I put mainline cleaner down the tub, and foaming root cleaner in the clean-out in the back yard. These don’t appear to have done anything.

-we have plunged it with a sink plunger and an accordion plunger, snaked it with a 25 foot auger, and used a kinetic water ram to 45lbs. I was afraid to use more pressure.

-we have emptied it out and poured a bucket of water in the bowl. It doesn’t drain like that.

-the tank doesn’t fill as much as it seems like it should, but the toilet still doesn’t flush with water added up to the fill line.

-I am about to lose my marbles.

Any ideas or solutions? Please. Thanks!


texts: Is access pipe leading to water main stop valve at curb physically attached to water main?

texts: I'm in Philadelphia, PA. I'm unable to get a key around the stop valve, because it's at an angle. It's several feet down, and I'd like to know if I can dig out and re-position the access pipe to correct the problem.


texts: Does crown direction really matter when framing a wall?

texts: When framing a wall is it really important to have the crown of each stud in the same direction?


texts: Toilets not refilling after replacing main water line outside

texts: We had to replace a section of the main water line where a tree root had caused a leak. After turning the water back on we had air and a little bit of dirt in the lines. After a little sputtering the water came back on in the sinks. But the toilet tanks are not refilling. What could be causing that?


texts: What is the name for the section of vertical tiling underneath a bay window?

texts: As per the highlighted section in this picture.


texts: When should screws be used for general wood framing?

texts:
I was wondering what sort of fasteners are best for general Wood Framing? I understand that in general construction is done 100% with nails, but as a small time, diyer, I am looking for best practices.

My understanding is that general nails are superior for shearing forces, so must always be used in connecting floor joists and other similar applications.

While wood screws hold far better against force pulling them straight out (structural screws seem to be a thing as well, but are relatively rare and expensive).

Am I right in thinking that I should use screws for subfloor, top and bottom plates, etc.
And nails for joists, gussets, headers, ect.?

As a commenter pointed out, we also have adhesive. Is their any reason not to use this liberally? I understand it is beneficial to add some when securing a subfloor. But I could use it on the ends of studs and under trusses to supplement hurricane clips, and between gussets, if too much rigidity was not a bad thing.


texts: Will I see any performance gains if I reconfigure my thermostat to control the second stage of my 2 stage furnace?

texts:
Our furnace is a two stage one that was installed last year (a Bryant 80t). When it was installed, it was installed with a thermostat for a one stage furnace. This appears to be because this model furnace has a mode where it will accept being controlled by a single stage thermostat and determine for itself when to fire the second stage based on its memory of recent cycles.

We just got one of those new fangled Nest thermostats that has the ability to control the second stage directly. When I installed the new thermostat, I left it configured as it was before (not wanting to change too many things at once), so the new one is controlling the furnace as a single device.

I'm curious now whether I could expect any significant difference in performance if I reconfigure the setup to allow the thermostat to control the second stage?  Or, will I see similar results because the furnace probably is smart enough to activate itself at an appropriate time?


texts: How to determine if a circuit breaker has GFCI

texts:
I recently discovered none of the grounds in the three-prong outlets in my house are connected to anything.  AFAICT the only way this is allowed without GFCI outlets is to have GFCI circuit breakers and then a sticker on the outlets with "no equipment ground."

Is there anything on the circuit breakers that indicates GFCI, generally?


texts: Can I route the neutral wire from a surge protection breaker across the panel busbars?

texts:
I plan to install a whole-house surge protective device (SPD). Its instructions state that you should place it as close as possible to the connection of the mains with the busbars. Also it has a neutral wire which is supposed to be made as short as possible.
My panel already has a backfeed breaker for a generator in the top-right position (blue). This cannot be moved because there is a physical lockout device on the panel.
If I put the SPD in the top-left position (space can be made - green) then is it acceptable to route the neutral wire through the shortest path crossing the busbars?
If not, any advice whether it would be better to:

Run the neutral a longer distance (eg up and over the top of the panel)?

Add another grounding bar in the upper-left of the panel, and attach there?

Put the SPD one down from the top-right?

Something else?

(The purple arrow is not specific as to the exact terminal, its just generally pointing to the intended area.)

I did see a brief discussion about a similar issue in the comments to https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/69282/41781 but it didn't seem definitive.


texts:
I just moved into a very old apartment. There is only one plug in the dining room and it is very strange.  It takes four same-sized vertical prongs, similar to a 50 amp outlet except the bottom is also vertical.

Some regular 3 prong plugs will fit in and our landlord insists that she has used it this way before with no issues. The problem is we want to plug in our mini fridge there and it doesn't fit (the ground prong is too wide). I tried using a 2-3 prong adapter but the ground part of the adapter ends up at the top or bottom and not by the screw, and I am just not comfortable plugging a fridge into a non-grounded outlet.

Does anyone know how we can convert this type of outlet to the traditional 3 prong grounded outlet so I can plug in my fridge? Sadly since we are renting we can't do any electrical work to accomplish this goal.


texts:
I have a kitchen split receptacle. The top outlet of the receptacle reads 120V AC as expected, with the hot wire being red and feeding from the breaker.

The bottom outlet reads 17.44V AC, with the hot wire being black and feeding from the breaker. This bottom outlet is then itself feeding another unsplit receptacle outside the kitchen, which also reads 17.44V AC.

I have no known load attached to the bottom outlet or unsplit receptacle when I make these measurements.
I have already replaced the split receptacle itself, so I am skeptical it is a bad receptacle (without another issue causing them to go bad).

Any ideas as to what could be causing this?


texts: Gap showing between baseboard and shorter-pile carpet

texts: We removed shag carpet and replaced it with a shorter carpet.  Now there is a gap between the baseboard and carpet.  Should we use shoe molding?  If so how do you use it on the stairs with rounded edges?


texts: How to glue back a piece of wood (particle board) that fell from my kitchen cupboard?

texts:
As seen in the attached images, a piece of wood fell my from my kitchen cupboard, leaving behind a trace of something that looks like a red dried glue. (I don't have much experience with DIY and have no idea what kind of glue this is.)
What do you recommend I should do to glue back the piece? Should I try first to scrape out the red glue? The glue seems to have been very coarsely applied and some areas have noticeable bumps. It also seems very firmly glued to the cupboard.
Moreover, what kind/product of glue do you recommend me to use? I fear that some wood glues wouldn't work in this situation, as the glue has to be applied vertically. Moreover, the bumps of the red glue might make it difficult for the piece to connect back with the cupboard.
Many thanks!


texts: What's the current input from each leg of a portable generator into my main panel?

texts:
I am connecting a portable generator to my electric sub-panel in my garage.  My generator is a 6kw running watt unit with a 30amp 220 volt output.  I will be using this connection (L14-30) to a box outside my garage.  This box will be connected to a shut-off panel inside the garage.  This shut-off panel will be connected to the sub-panel, via a 30 amp double pole breaker (220 volt).  I would like to measure each leg for volts, amps and watts.  Am I correct in that I can measure each (2)"hot" wire for volts, and amps, or do I need to include the "common" wire and add the amps from that for my total?  I also want to keep an eye on the total running watts from each leg to keep from overloading the generator.  I may need to remove some devices as they start, because of their starting current.
I am not using an automatic transfer switch, so I will be shutting off the Main breaker before I start the generator.  I will then shut off ALL breakers, before I switch the shut-off switch to ON.  I will then switch individual breakers to feed certain areas of my house, during a power outage.


texts: how can i set up dusk to dawn outdoor lighting ?

texts: My digital in-wall electric timer will only work with a single pole configuration. My wiring currently has 2 switches/poles. The simplest option is screwing in an electric eye automatic light control at each of 3 outdoor lights.


texts: I've never spackled before and I tried to fill in some space between the wall and the stairs after we took out our carpet. Suffice it to say I used way too much spackle and now I have an uneven mess. What is the best way to fix things now that the spackle has hardened?


texts:
I am in the process of building a small (14x14) log cabin in the woods on a pier foundation:

After marking the perimeter, I began excavating the soil and dug to below the frost line (36"). The plan is to have 18" above the soil and 3 feet below. The soil is a mix of sand and clay. When I returned the next day, the hole had filled with water:

To save money, I intended to make the piers out of 90% broken concrete chunks (urbanite), mixed with new concrete to hold the broken chunks in place. Now, I'm considering pouring bags of concrete in the hole until I get the right consistency, then plopping chunks in there until I fill the form.

Is this a bad idea? Is it a problem that my pier blocks will be perpetually exposed to water? Do I need to move the location of the cabin to some place higher?

Note that I intend this to be "off grid": no plumbing, no HVAC (other than a wood stove), and maybe electricity run off a generator.

Thanks in advance!


texts: how to stop a garage door from self opening

texts: I have a chamberlain garage door. I bought a new remote and programmed it using the instructions provided. The remote works fine, but now the garage door opens on its own approx every 30 mins. How do I prevent this?


texts:
I live in Greece and have a very traditional house.I can't yet find a replacement porcelain shower tray the same dimensions. The original is cracked in several places but not leaking. I was thinking of covering it with a glue, a foundation and tiles or painting it with something that might stick??? Any ideas until I find a new one?
Porcelain on concrete maybe Anyhow, very thick and heavy dimensions: 70cm wide x 65 deep x inside height 12 and outside 18.


texts:
A new, strange noise is coming from a slop sink that is located next to my washing machine in the basement.  The washing machine exhausts into the slop sink and the slop sink drains rather well since I plunged it a few weeks ago.

In the past few days I have been occasionally hearing glunk-glunk noises from the empty slop sink.  I am not in the basement much, but I do not hear the noise all the time,

What might be causing this and what might I do about it?

Update: Toilet in basement just overflowed with contents of upstairs toilets.  I guess my soil pipe to the street is clogged.  I should have paid more attention to the glunk-glunk noise when I heard it a few days ago.

Second Update:  Just had the sewer pipe cleaned out.  The crew found roots growing in it.  (The sewer service company came quickly!)


texts: Multiple GFCI with two hot wires and shared neutral

texts:
I learned about wiring multiple GFCIs with 12-3 wire from this post: How do I install a GFCI receptacle with two hot wires and common neutral?

And a I have a related question as to why this circuit (shown below) doesn't continually trip the GFCIs.

My Question:
Here's an example--a toaster is plugged into the 2nd receptacle from the left, drawing 5A. I assume that 5A will then flow through the neutral. Therefore, 5A is on ALL the neutral wire in the diagram, because they're all pigtailed together.

If that's true, now the 1st GFCI from the left will sense a difference of 5A and should trip because no current is flowing through its ungrounded (red) wire, but 5A is flowing through its neutral.

So, why doesn't a load on any one of the GFCIs trip all the other GFCIs? Why does this work? I know this is correct because its published, but I don't understand why.

And yes, I've read this post: https://diy.blogoverflow.com/2013/07/demystifying-the-mystifying-gfci/.


texts: York Diamond 80 HVAC - Fan Only Works With Heat

texts: Model P4HUB16N08001A.  NEST thermostat says problem with wiring - relay clicks but fan does not start - outside unit runs.  Installed "dumb" thermostat and fuse blows - does not try to start.  Fan does work on HEAT, but not for COOL or FAN.  Originally one of the guys thought it was the run capacitor, which did test weak so replaced - not the problem.


texts: Multiple weak light bulbs vs one strong light bulb

texts:
I currently have a small room with a single CFL bulb at the center of its ceiling. The bulb lights up the whole room well enough. I encounter the problem though that when standing in front of the mirror mounted on the wall of the room, I block the light, keeping it from reflecting light onto myself.

Because of this, I plan on installing multiple light bulbs in the room so that theoretically, there's at least one or so light sources directly lighting any point of the room where ever I stand. Of course, to conserve energy and to keep the room from getting too bright and hot, I intend on installing weaker light bulbs.

I also plan on buying LED bulbs so my solution above should solve the "non-omni-directional"nature of the bulbs.

Do you see any problem that might arise with my solution? The problems I see are the cost of the LED bulbs and the effort to install more sockets in the room for the bulbs. These are trivial in my case though since I'm willing to spend the time and money to install them.

PS: My current CFL bulb is rated with 820 lumens. Would buying multiple bulbs whose lumens ratings sum up to 820 light up the room just as well? I plan on installing them on the edges or corners of the ceiling, each pointing to the center, so I'm guessing that the lumens WILL add up based on what I've read after googling.  Correct me if I'm wrong though.


texts: Should a 3'-4' retaining wall have interlocking blocks?

texts: I'm building a 3'-4' retaining wall in my backyard and I'm in the process of choosing block. One of the blocks I like isn't engineered with any kind of lip or interlocking feature. Is this necessary for a wall that size? Or is this type of block meant more for a freestanding wall or a small garden wall with only 2-4 courses?


texts: Connecting 240 volt generator to Main Panel

texts:
I read previous posts that explained that the Sub Panel has a separate connection for ground and separate for neutral, while the Main Panel does not separate the ground & neutral - this is exactly how my panels are setup.  My Sub Panel has all of the house's breakers and the panel is completely full.  My Main Panel has the one Main Cut Off with areas to add breakers.  I'm wanting to add a double breaker to the Main Panel for a 240 volt generator.

I have two questions:

When I wire the generator inlet to the Main Panel, do I wire both the ground wire and neutral wire to the same connector as is done now with the ground & neutral at the Main Panel?
The generator's owner's manual states that it's "neutral floating".  I was intending to ground the generator (8' copper rod with 6 ga. solid copper).  Does the floating neutral on the generator change anything?


texts: Dimmer Switch Install - Trying to Locate Ground

texts: Would anyone be able to take a look at this and direct me to the ground in the box, if any. Long story short I’m installing a dimmer that comes with a green ground and don’t know where to attach it. I prefer not to use the plastic faceplate. Also, is it okay to simply change one of the 2 switches or do I need to do both? The left one is pigtailed so I prefer not to change that one. Thanks!


texts: How do I add fire protection to a common (shared) wall?

texts:
I own a condo, built in 1961. I've started remodeling and in tearing out my kitchen I discovered the wall between me and my neighbors is only that: a wall. No fire protection just drywall, regular (old) insulation and drywall. Any simple suggestions besides tearing down all the drywall?

I'll be installing Roxul Safe'n'Sound™ in the interior walls.


texts:
I am putting French drains in my basement and I did one side already. When getting the one side done, the contractors found that there was a second floor poured on top of the old (he said people do that to stop water from leaking in). There was about 6” of gravel, and then a layer of concrete.

The second half of the basement is about 5” higher, and the contractors believe that side has THREE layers. My question is, is it completely out of the question to jack hammer away the entire third concrete floor? Even if it takes hours and hours and hours. I am willing.  I just want opinions from others about things I may be overlooking. Thanks!!


texts: Is it possible to replace just the inside handle of a screen door?

texts: I found the inside handle like this today. My housemate and my wife have professed ignorance on how it got that way. As a result of the handle getting cranked about 20 degrees from horizontal, the latch no long allows the door to close all of the way. Would I just be replacing the inside assembly? Inner and outer handle? The entire door?


texts:
My house is wired for Cat5e. In each room there is a blank socket with a cat5e cable behind it. I presume they all terminate in a common location. I've looked in all the usual and unusual locations where they might terminate but I can't find them.

Are there tools/equipment I can use to send a signal on one of the cables and track it through the walls/floors?


texts: For a small building, should joists or girders run the long dimension?

texts:
I'm planning to frame a 12' x 16' floor. Should the joists be 12', and the beams 16'? Or vice versa?

More detail: 4x4 posts on concrete piers; 12' x 10' will be enclosed; 12' x 6' will be a covered deck. I'm using the county's standard loading of 40 psf live/ 10 psf dead.

EDIT: adding a 3D view (click for full size)


texts: How can I find the source of water leaking over a window?

texts:
We have a new build home. It is a year old. Two times in the last year we have had heavy rain/wind that have caused one of our windows to leak from the top down. The water seems to come in at the sheetrock/window connection. It does not leak on the bottom. The water is very dirty looking. It leaks bad enough that it causes a puddle on the floor.

We have tried to reproduce the leak without any luck. We have soaked it with a hose right on the window, as well as above. Also, when it snows, and rains, it doesn't leak. Only during heavy rain/wind. We recently had over a foot of snow that melted. No leaks. We have also gone in the attic to look for any signs of water. None were found.

Does anyone have any tips on how we can identify where the water is getting in at? We do have pictures of the home during construction which show flashing was used around the window. The outside exterior of the home is stucco.

[1]

[2]

[3]


texts: Do wooden cabinets absorb grease in kitchen?

texts: I had my mind on wooden countertops - but I will likely be a heavy duty user and so I have settled on the idea of using wooden cabinets (such as here) with a corian/marble type countertop. My partner has raised questions about the wood absorbing the grease - and so I would like to know if any of you have come across this problem, and how can we best mitigate it?


texts: Should I be concerned about painting fiberglass columns darker colors due to warp risk?

texts: The 10ft wood columns supporting the South-facing portico at the entry to my house rotted out, so I replaced them with fiberglass. The rest of the portico is green with an LRV of 50; I'd like to paint the columns the same color. Yet I have read warnings that fiberglass columns will warp if not painted a light color. Sure enough, most fiberglass columns I see are white or light beige or yellow. Still, I wonder if the warning about warping should be taken seriously, or whether LRV of 50 is out of the danger zone.


texts: Are child safety covers still required on modern outlets?

texts: I have a vague memory of either our electrician or home inspector telling us that the outlets in our recently renovated condo do not need those plastic child safety covers in order to be child-proofed because the circuit breakers are in some way better now than when I was a kid. Is there any truth to this?


texts: Can I split (1) 220 line with a 30 AMP breaker into (2) 110 15 AMP outlets using 14/2 wire?

texts: Can I split (1) 220 line with a 30 AMP breaker into (2) 110 15 AMP outlets using 14/2 wire ?


texts: How do I drill a 2⅛ inch door knob hole over an existing 1½ inch hole?

texts:
I need to replace the door knob for this interior door:

The door knobs I've found at the stores require a 2⅛ inch hole.  Mine is only 1½:

Did door knobs used to be smaller?  Is there some place I can find a replacement door knob that will fit my door?

If I need to modify the door to fit a modern door knob, will the new hole completely overlap the old? and can I reuse the latch hole?


texts: What is this part called and where can I buy it?

texts:
So I replaced the weather stripping on all of my very old windows yesterday. The windows are sash windows. In the process I unfortunately broke two of the spring-loaded things that hold the top part of the window securely into the frame's guides. Here are some photos of both one I didn't break, and the individual disassembled parts:

So, my questions are:

What is this called?
Where can I get replacements?

Thank you!


texts:
I am trying to make some concrete items such as trays, vases, bowls etc.
Can anyone please advise on recipes/ratios for this? I would like to make these in white, black and grey and want a smooth finish (lump free and non gritty)
Thanks,
James


texts: How to get both sides of 1/2 inch water pipe into a new coupling

texts: What can I do when putting in a coupling but there is not enough flex in the water pipe to get both sides of the coupling on?


texts:
Can anyone identify? I'm hoping I can use it somehow to affect air flow.

http://i.imgur.com/5q4T9nr.jpg


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I want to put stair rails on the wall on 2 flights of steps in house.

From some online searching people say to put rail on right side wall coming down the stairs. This is fine on one set of steps but on the other set if I put on right side wall the light switch at bottom of stairs would be mid rail height. Is it ok to just put the rail on the left wall? Or do I move the light switch further up the wall?


texts: Can I convert a basement window to a door?

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We have a poured concrete basement, serving as the foundation of our home, which was built in 2008 in central Minnesota.

The basement has 3 vinyl windows, the sills of which are around 1' above grade.

We're planning our basement finishing process, and I wonder if we can convert one of these windows to a patio door or something similar, so we can walk out of the basement instead of needing to go back upstairs and then out.

There's an 18'x18' deck (with stairs) above the window I'm thinking of replacing, and preventing rain from seeping in wouldn't be a huge problem. There's around 7' of head room under the deck, specially at the end away from the house, while it's around 6' right next to the window.

Essentially, this would (hopefully) become a walk-up basement, with steps leading up to end of the deck.

Is this doable without in any way compromising the structural integrity of the foundation? Without introducing water pooling, etc?


texts: How can a circuit be designed with a switched live connected to multiple PIR motion sensors? [UK]

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If you want a light or generic circuit to be switched by multiple PIR sensors, how is this best achieved? For instance you might have 4 sensors on the corners of your house and if any of them detect something, the circuit goes live.
I've seen how to do it for 2 sensors but can't figure out how to extrapolate for a variable number, other than adding an extra live in parallel for each switch(!).
I have seen a question talking about this for the US and while electricity is the same there, the way things are done is subtly different so I would like a UK-specific answer.
Is there a way that lets you add multiple PIRs flexibly once cables are already installed?


texts: How can I get bulk riser cable back into the box?

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I recently ran a cat-6 cable from inside my house to the office, and I bought a bulk box of 500 feet. I pulled lots more out of the box than I ended up needing, and so now I have about 100 feet of cable outside the box.

Is there an electrician’s secret trick to getting the cable back into the box?