texts:
This is a follow up from a previous question: (Is this a sign of my roof trusses sagging?)
Do you know how to use ratchet ties (or some other method) to fix sagging roof trusses?
Here is an image of a ratchet tie in place:
So, this is a 2-storey brick veneer house, built 15 years ago, in south-eastern Australia. Carpernter 1 used some hoist from inside the house to push the ceiling up, then they put in place a hanging beam [i'm not sure this is the right term] for the left half of our roof. This didn't last long before the symptoms of sagging roof trusses began again. A few months later, Carpenter 2 came and temporarily used some ratchet ties, before putting in place some support beams [again, i'm not sure this is the right term] around the same area that Carpenter 1 worked on. This too didn't last long before the trusses began to sag again.
So I am thinking of using some ratchet ties and then just leaving them in place. This will allow me to re-adjust/re-tighten if need be in the future. Also I think I will place them all around my roof, instead of just one area like the previous carpenter. This is because the signs of sagging roof trusses are all around our roof.
The photo attached shows how a carpenter had placed the ratchet ties. But the photo only captures part of the image. I guess the top part of the image would have showed the ratchet tie over the rafter (which would be slanting at an angle here). Is this the right way to do it?
[I know people in my previous post told me to go to a structural engineer, but I am poor...we already tried some carpenters in the past, but it seems to have been a waste of money and effort with them...any help would be great guys, thanks in advance.]


texts: Which side up on installation of Fesco Foam Insulation?

texts:
I’ve got a stack of Manville Fesco Foam insulation boards salvaged from a commercial installation that I’m repurposing for the inside of my garage roof. I’m planning on machining them to fit around the joists in order to preserve some headroom without sacrificing too much performance in terms of LTTR.

Since I didn’t salvage them myself, I didn’t see how they were installed. So the questions are:

Which side faces the interior of the building - The black side or the perlite?
Can I use screws or nails with washers to attach them to the joists, or would that sacrifice too much performance? I.e., should I use something like construction adhesive?


texts:
My basement is prone to getting water in it after big rains.  I know that we definitely have a leak in the wall on one side of the basement so we're having a contractor come in and demo the whole basement and excavating the exterior in hopes of finding said leak.  They are pretty confident they can find it easily and patch it up. Then I think we'll DRYLOK the whole thing as an added safety measure.

The other day when I was down there, I noticed several small piles of white dust scattered throughout the basement floor.  I've researched this and I think what I've found are calcium deposits which I understand appear as water and moisture come through the concrete. (Am I right so far?)

I'd like to ultimately porcelain tile the basement floor (right now it has linoleum tiles) but I'd like to seal the floor somehow first.  I read that DRYLOKing it will cause the thinset to not bond properly when laying the tiles.  Are there other options out there?


texts: Switching 15 amp breaker to 20 amp for AC unit

texts:
After moving into my new home I noticed there was only one 20 amp breaker in the box.  The AC unit was wired into it but since it was winter and I didn't need AC I unhooked it to wire in the 220 for my dryer.  My question is can I take one of the empty 15 amp breakers in the box and change it out to a 20 amp so I can have my AC and dryer both wired in?

Thanks!


texts: Snowblower auger spins easily and does not turn impeller

texts:
I live in the northeastern US which just got pummeled with 3+ feet of snow.
I was out snowblowing all morning using my Cub Cadet and it did a great job. However when I turned it off and started gently knocking the excess snow off the blades/augers, I noticed that although three of them were tough to turn, one of them was spinning loosely.
When I say "tough to turn", I mean they felt normal. With each of the these three augers, trying to turn them manually was difficult but also resulted with the impeller spinning at the same time. This is normal given my experience with snowblowers.
But one of the augers you can spin easily and does not seem to be connected to the impeller at all.
Has something broken or shorn off here?


texts: How to treat the edge of OSB in a piece of furniture

texts:
There are lots of nice pictures on the internet of untreated OSB CNC-cut into chairs/tables/benches.

What can be done to the edge of the cut to have a clean surface with no strands and splinters? Other than gluing PVC edge banding (which ruins raw aesthetics and is often unpractical for non-linear cuts)


texts: Tandem breaker needs both thrown to break circuit. Incorrectly wired?

texts:
I have a tandem circuit breaker in my main breaker box with two 20 amp breakers. To turn off power my wife's office, I need to throw both breakers. I can throw either one and as long as the other is on, the circuit is still live.

My guess is the electrician who installed this tandem breaker wired it in parallel. In other words, current is flowing through both breakers when closed and both have to be open for it to break the circuit. Does that sound right?

If so, my understanding is that it would take 40 amps of current to flow before this breaker would trip. (20 amps X 2 = 40 amps because it's in parallel)

They used 12 AWG wire on the circuit. That means the wire would basically catch fire before the circuit would actually break. This seems incredibly dangerous.

Are my assumptions correct in this case? I'd like to know so I can get a electrician out to inspect the wiring, since I've spotted a few other oddities in this house.


texts: Why does my range breaker deliver 120 volts instead of 240?

texts:
I'm in Calgary Alberta and I added 2 afci breakers and 1 15amp breaker to my circuit as we are developing our basement. I moved 1 40amp range breaker and now I'm not getting 240v across the black and red. I do get 120v from white to red and white to black but 0v from black to red. I even tried a new breaker and still nothing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.


texts: Grading soft white sandy soil in central Florida with only a Bobcat?

texts:
I have a 1/4 acre  vacant lot in Central Florida in an undeveloped area. Two of my neighbors are about 4' higher in elevation according to Google Earth, though I stood there and don't see it or flooding. Not looking to pay for a survey or build anything permanent at this time - I can build up with fill for a proper house pad later.  There is also apparently 2' dip in the center of my lot where I'd like to park my camper in the rainy summers.  The soil is a very soft white sand that is like butter for digging but compacts very well and seems to be very porous.

I was wondering if a BobCat Skit steer alone would be able to  grade the lot BY PUSHING my own sandy soil up from perimeter and front to a 50x50 elevated pad in the center back. I'd like to have a 5' difference between the plateau and ditch on the perimeter and the front and don't mind a ditch around the perimeter for security purposes either and would work it into my landscaping plans.

Possible and any idea what labor on a job like this might cost and take in hours  if no materials need to be fetched?

Not to scale and just to get an idea.. rough and exaggerated visual below. Gray line is where my level currently is, Red is my property line, green is finished product.

something like this in much softer sand: Youtube video


texts: Will 2, 10kA breakers for stove requiring a 50 Amp breaker

texts: Can I run a 50 Amp stove on dual 10kA breakers? I’m an electrical idiot and know just enough to be dangerous.


texts: Span of roof rafters, how to fix improper structure

texts:
I'm building a carport that is 30x24 ft including a 20x24 gable and 10x24 lean to. It currently has 2x4 roof rafters spaced 24" with collar ties about a foot below the gable peak, so 5-6 ft long ties. Seems a 2x4 SPF #2 should really only span about 6 ft horizontally, using the American Wood Council online calculator. Why on earth do I have 2x4 rafters 24" on center? It's a long story.

The rafters on the project are spanning about 9.5 ft horizontally, both on a gable with almost 7/12 pitch (19 ft total gable span) and spanning the same 9.5ft on a side lean to with about 2/12 pitch.

This does not seem structurally sound.

My question is: Will adding 2x6 rafters in between the 2x4's make it structurally sound? So final spacing will be 12" between rafters, but alternate 2x4, 2x6. I would put 10 ft collar ties on the new 2x6 rafters, so about at the halfway mark down from the gable peak to the top plate on the posts.

Of course the answer to the question depends on the overall structural elements, but just assume that everything else is ok. Any other issues are a separate question, and you might see another from me regarding this project. I just want to know thoughts on 12" spaced rafters alternating 2x4 and 2x6.

Other info:
On top of the rafters will go 0.419 OSB, felt, and metal roofing.
There are other issues like adding additional bracing to the rafters, but that may or may not be relevant to this question. I'll give more details if anyone requires.


texts: Frigidaire Freezer and Fridge lights dimming and brightening

texts: Our electricity went out the other night, but our whole house generator kicked on. Once the power came back on a few hours later, I noticed that every time I opened our Frigidaire refrigerator OR freezer door (they are a side by side combo), the lights inside went from bright to dim to bright again. I would change the light bulb if it were only one, but it's happening on both units. It has been 3 days and it's still happening. I can't find any troubleshooting info in the owner's manual.


texts: Filling holes in floor where heating ducts used to be?

texts:
I just bought a house which has been converted from forced air to hot water baseboard heating.  Someone removed all of the ducts, but left the register covers in all of the floors on the first floor.  I want to remove these, but they all leave gaping holes into the basement.

My personal thought is to somehow fill the holes with wood and then put flooring on top of the patches.  I'm handy, but I don't have the technical training to know what kind of wood to use, what size pieces to buy, screws/nails, etc.  I'm confident I can do the work if I know what materials to get.

Has anybody done this sort of work before?


texts: How do I mitigate moisture problems when putting up drywall over stucco with torn tar paper?

texts:
I'd like to finish my 56-year old garage with drywall but I have concerns about moisture.

The wall construction looks like stucco over tar paper with metal wire support, then the frame.

My main concern is that when it has rained in the past, the inside of the stucco and the tar paper gets moist. On some parts of the wall, the paper is torn and I can see the stucco from the inside. If I drywall the interior, will the moisture still be able to escape and not cause moisture damage or mold?

Are there certain kinds of insulation and/or vapor barrier that would allow moisture to escape?

I have read that using an impermeable membrane could cause condensation and cause water to pool at the bottom of the wall.


texts: Critical temperature what a family house's average thermal energy storage can ride out?

texts:
Lets say average family house was built with brick (EU).

We know that brick has a good mass of thermal energy storage.

So in the night, when it is colder, it can store lower temperature thanks to its mass.

During daytime on summer, when it is horribly hot outside, it can still give lower temperatures, stored from the night.

But with this climate change, maybe things are getting warmer and warmer. Ex.: 35-40 Celsius in the shade.

I am not thinking of precise answer regarding exact temperatures, but an about average, that in theory, is it possible or not.

->

So the question: could it get so hot outside, that building buildings based on great mass will be the past?

So a building, what is in a very hot area (and cold on winter, like -2 Celsius average) shouldn't have great mass, rather very-very-very-VERY good insulation and air tightness?

I think when it is hot for several days, the great mass is not enough to survive.


texts:
I'm unfortunately having a lot of trouble removing my thumbturn of my door.  Please see pic.  It's a Schlage that was on this house when we bought it as the model home in 2007ish.

I've tried pushing in the small hole with a small allen wrench while trying to pull the thumbturn out but that hasn't done anything.  There are no visible screws.  Thanks


texts: What's behind laminate flooring AC rating

texts: Can someone explain what is the concrete difference in manufacturing/testing between the various AC (abrasion class) ratings? I'm most interested in the difference between AC3 and AC4.


texts: Damaged and/or poorly installed light switches and outlet boxes

texts:
What is The Right Way to repair the drywall above this switch box?
The problem is that the metal box pictured here is not mounted correctly, and wobbles a bit. This would not be too bad of an issue if I could rely on the "eyehole looking part" of the light switch to make contact with the drywall, and thus pull the box tight when the switch is screwed in.
Should I cut out a rectangular area of drywall right above the box and put a fresh chunk in with a board to back it? Cut out a larger area and redo the box itself, along with the drywall cut?
I know there are metal/plastic backing plate type things I could put between the drywall and the switch, and I've used them elsewhere - but I can't quite find on that fits in this situation, without going well over the size of the switch face plate (which my wife is fond of).
Edit: I mean this question more in the abstract sense - this is just one of many of this sort of issue throughout my house, and I would like to repair them all.


texts: Should a board connecting a beam in the attic to a rafter be removed?

texts:
When I bought this house (foreclosure) the prior owner was in the middle of a project to remove a wall. It is a load bearing wall 12' long that supports the ceiling joists which span 24'. T the other end of the wall is an 11' long opening and the ceiling joists are supported by a hanging beam.  Where he removed the studs from the wall you could see that the ceiling was sagging. I put some temporary supports there for now until I decide what to do there.

On the side where the hanging beam is the ceiling sags about 1/2" at it's midpoint and has a hairline crack. I can't tell if the beam is flexing or if the way it's fastened to the joists is failing. I do see a gap between the bottom of the beam and the top of the ceiling joists.

It looks like the prior owner planned to tie the ceiling joists to the roof rafters to support the ceiling. I can see that the two light colored 2x4"s are screwed in so I know the prior owner did that. The 2x4 I'm questioning is nailed in but it also looks like a piece of wood that's been reused because it has bent over nails in the middle of it.

I'm in the midwest where we can get several feet of snow. And if there was enough snow on the roof would it push down on that beam? What I was planning to do is to jack up the ceiling and install some Simpson hangers. The question I have is whether that 2x4 belongs there.


texts: Oven pilot making high pitched noise (when off)

texts:
There is a high pitched noise that is coming from my oven. I have pinpointed that the noise is coming from the oven pilot light, and it is most audible when the oven is off.
When the oven is off, the sound is a high pitched tone, around 4200 Hz. I recorded a sample of what it sounds like, you can listen here:
https://clyp.it/gohbjvhx
If I gently blow on the pilot light, I can hear the pitch changing slightly or go in and out.
If I turn the oven on, the sound seems to go away, or at least gets quieter and lower pitched.
What could this be?


texts: My house was built in 1983, and the siding is in great shape.  The problem is that I am changing out a window, and replacing it with a smaller window to work with my kitchen remodel.  The problem is finding siding that will match the original, which I'm sure has been out of production for some time.  Any ideas or custom fabricators that might be able to match for a small job (roughly 10' by 4'?


texts: Why do some painters leave a gap between the wall and the ceiling?

texts: I've noticed that (at least here in Germany) some walls are painted so that a tiny fraction of the upper wall has the same color as the ceiling. Why do people do that? I find this not so pretty.


texts:
I have a PureBlue H20 Reverse osmosis water filter system and want to add a water valve for it. Not sure which type of valve and size I should get and whether to put the valve on the main valve itself or on the plastic connections.

I would like some recommendations on the best and cheap option.


texts: two separate systems controlled by one controller (wifi)

texts: I have two separate systems with two separate thermostats, cooling on the second floor and heating on the first. Is there a way to have a "main" thermostat on the first floor and control the cooling via a wifi controller and the thermostat controlling the heat from the first floor?


texts: Why would water be coming out of my shower when I turn on the bathroom sink?

texts:
The other day we finally installed a sink faucet and down pipe connecting the sink to the drain in the floor of our bathroom. Up until now we have been using the tub to wash our hands. We have been working on finishing the interior of a new construction here in Argentina for over a year so we were excited to finally have a civilized bathroom to use.

To our horror when we used the sink faucet for the first time, water simultaneously came out of the tub faucet. The shower has 3 knobs, left hot, right cold, and middle selects shower or tub. Water comes out of both the shower and tub facet depending on the selection while the sink facet is on.

I would like to add that we have a tank (1000 liters? enough for one home) on the roof to provide the water pressure and that the tank may not have been at full capacity/pressure at the time, since we don't have the permanent pump hooked up yet. I don't want to over react to the contractor if it just that we had low pressure, but based on other things I have witnessed I am a bit concerned that I will need to remove all our furniture and fixtures for them to make a correction.

Please tell me it has something to do with low pressure.


texts: How can I mount a projector to a concrete ceiling?

texts:
I am in a dorm room and I am attempting to mount my projector and screen in my ceiling... As far as I can tell from just tapping the ceiling it is made of cinderblocks if that sounds right or something similarly tough.

I have absolutely no idea how to mount the projector and screen in the ceiling and would appreciate any help...

What tools would I use?
Since I don't own anything but a hammer and screw driver, would I be able to rent the tools? If so, where?


texts: How to fix BBQ: re-insert metal cylinder that came off partially

texts:
I have a Barbecook BBQ where the bottom part became partially detached.
The metal cylinder is supposed to be inside the bottom plate, but one side came out.

There is no glue or welding involved.  The cylinder is fixed by the pressure of the ridge on the bottom plate. It still feels strongly connected, and (gently) tapping it with a hammer did not push the cylinder back in. I'm afraid of hitting it too hard as it could bend the cylinder. I also tried heating the bottom plate with a hair dryer (in the hope the metal would expand a bit) but to no effect. Any suggestions on what I could to fix this? I don't know what this construction technique is called, so I find it hard to find info about it.

Update: thank you for all the replies!

I already have this bbq for some years, so the 2 year warranty is over.

This weekend I tried to combine all the answers; I cleaned the cylinder and the cap, found that my freezer is not big enough, heated both parts in the oven up to 250°C (great suggestion!), cooled the cylinder in cold water and tried to push them together. I got some movement, but I felt I lacked force.

Today I tried clamping the cylinder and the cap, increasing pressure step by step while using a flathead screwdriver as a leverage to bend the cylinder in the cap and hammering from time to time to get the cylinder to bend inwards. And to my great joy, it worked!

For future reference:


texts: How should I power 6 30W (30-36v 1.05A) LEDs from the mains?

texts: Was reading about transformers, so basically, which transformer will be optimum, could i get a 36-30v one and not worry about resistors?


texts:
After taking a shower and then flushing the toilet, we get gurgling sound in the kitchen sink.

We have had the plumbing snaked which didn't help, kept happening. Then the plumber jetted the entire line and video scoped to make sure the lines were cleaned. The jetting got a lot slag out of the lines but it still gurgles occasionally. The plumber is saying it is because we installed the 1.3 gal flush toilets, although it gurgled before we installed the.

It doesn't make sense to me, I saw the video camera, the pipes are clean, what could cause this?

Help!


texts:
The problem

My vented attic in Virginia has a straight 28ft of 12" x 8" rigid rectangular trunk duct with seven 6" branches. The insulation is quite low around R-4, and also has many tears and rips, and the ducts need to be air sealed. I would like to replace the insulation with R-8.

After reinsulating all ducts to R8, I plan to bury them in blown cellulose insulation, based on the report Compact Buried Ducts in a
Hot-Humid Climate House.

This question is related to a previous question.

Standard solutions

From what I've read, there are two standard solutions recommended. The first is to wrap the duct in something like Owens Corning SOFTR Duct Wrap FRK, but it can only be purchased from HVAC supply houses that usually don't sell direct to homeowners. They also sell only in 50 ft rolls for 3" R-8, and for 2016 run around $100 a roll. Wrapping the ducts would entail disconnecting all the branch lines, air sealing with mastic, lifting the duct up to pull the insulation underneath, cutting holes for all the branch starting collars, then sealing the seams with UL181 foil tape. Lifting the duct and cutting the holes just right I feel would be rather difficult.

The second solution is to encase the ducts in 2-part spray foam. This has the advantage of air sealing and doesn't require a thick layer, but it is very expensive even if done yourself, requires special safety precautions, and it would be very difficult to seal the bottom of the ducts. At around $1 per board foot (1 sq ft 1 in thick, about R6), this would require about 150 bd ft, and DIY kits come in 200 bd ft for about $300.

Proposed solution

Surround the ducts with 1.5" (R-9.6) polyisocyanurate rigid foam insulation board. These run about $30 for a 4x8ft board, and only four would be needed for my installation with very little waste. As the duct is all the same dimensions and straight, the cuts would be very simple and could be done outside the attic. The seams would be sealed with UL181 foil tape, perhaps with some caulk or construction adhesive where the boards overlap at the corners. If needed the foam board could be cut to fit around the starting collars without even taking off the branch ducts. Near the plenum where it might be difficult to lift the duct, the foam board could be cut to fit between the joists, with simple spray foam or caulk sealing where it meets the joists.

Questions

Fiberglass duct wrap would be pressed right against the duct, but the foam would leave a slight and variable gap. Is there any problem with this? I suppose there could be some convection, but if the ducts are sealed and the insulation is sealed, how could this be a problem?

Are there any problems with my proposed solution?


texts: How to trim between wood floor and circular opening for spiral stairs

texts:
I recently replaced the carpet in my attic with a floating mdf backed engineered hardwood floor.  the attic has a circular opening in the floor for a spiral staircase.

The face of the opening is 3/8" plywood. My question is:  How do I trim the curved edge between the floor and the opening face?

I haven't been able to find a product designed for this purpose at the local hardware store or in a Google search.  Something made of wood would be ideal, but that seems impractical.  Probably something made of a  flexible material would be an easier option.  If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it.  Thanks in advance


texts: Wiring Leviton Timer to Bath Fan and Switch to Light

texts:
I am a DIYer with a basic knowledge of electrical wiring.  I am having trouble wiring a bath fan to a timer and light to a switch.  I can get get power to one or the other, not both.  Here is the wiring configuration. Wires are coming into the wall box as shown, but not exiting.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Timer make/model: Leviton decora #LTB15


texts: Impact of small gaps in insulation on conductive and radiative heat loss?

texts:
When insulating a room , what is the effect of small gaps in the insulation on the degree of conductive heat loss? On radiative heat loss? What other major factors affect the answer?
(I presume that the effect on convective heat loss is pretty significant.)


texts: Romex exiting junction box just below 8 feet

texts:
I am installing new outlets by drilling up from the garage between the wall cavity and fishing romex up. As seen in the picture:

I had my first inspection and the inspector called out that the junction boxes are just below 8 feet above the floor, by just a few inches. So this romex is considered "exposed" and must be protected.

I'm not sure how to rectify this situation. Do I need two junction boxes at each entry point? The junction box you see existing, and add another one just below the above floor? It sounds silly to me to install so much hardware. Is there a cheaper, easier, code-compliant solution?

Can I put the romex in a flexible metal conduit? But then how would I terminate the FMC with the romex just poking out of it?

What are other code-compliant ways to protect just a few inches of romex like this?


texts: Should I use heat resistant paint when whitewashing a brick fireplace?

texts:
We are going to whitewash our brick fireplace, similar to this picture:

What kind of paint do we need to use to accomplish this? Does it need to be heat resistant?

Note we are just whitewashing the face of the brick (the inside of the fireplace will be painted with a black heat resistant paint).


texts: How can I determine why there is no water coming from my hot taps?

texts: I'm getting no water from any of the hot taps in my house. The cold water taps are working fine. The central heating is also working. I have a combi-boiler. It's been fairly cold today in London, so maybe a frozen pipe? Any ideas on how I can diagnose/fix the issue?


texts: I'm building a propane fire pit in my backyard patio with a pea stone surface.  I want to have the LP tank located 12 feet away from the fire, and I don't want to trip over the line.  What can I do for an underground connection for a small application like this?  For the burner, I'll be buying a kit from FirePitsDirect.com.


texts: How can I have an exhaust fan run if either of two switches is on?

texts:
My design includes 2 switches to control one fan, but it is not strictly a 3-way switch. I want the fan to be on if either switch is on and off if both switches are off.
This is an attic mounted fan, and I plan to split the input side to pull air from one of two rooms. Room 1 = shower with automatic humidity switch. Room 2 = toilet with timer switch. I also want these switches to control motorized dampers to close when the room switch is off.
Is there a device like a relay that can combine the two sources and power the fan?
EDIT: I don't think I worded the part about the dampers clearly. I only want a damper to be open if the switch for that room is on. In other words, I would expect that generally only one damper would be open or they would both be closed. If the switches were just wired in parallel I think both dampers would operate in unison.


texts:
I'd like to run a data communication cable through all of the outlets, light fixtures and switches in a house. (I already have the walls open for other reasons.) Think something like a hardwired X10, within each outlet/fixture. A single run per floor, which I can then "pick off" when I I don't want to put a control box outside of the wall; the module which will switch the light/outlet or query switch status easily fits inside a standard junction box.

I understand that data and power are not to be mixed as per NEC without an accepted barrier, but how does this apply to devices which require both power and data within the box? It seems like NEC 2011 defines a specific exception for its "thou shalt not run power and data together" when the power is used to power the communications device.

My application isn't quite that (the outlet would be powering both the communications device inside the outlet box as well as whatever the communications device is controlling on the "other side" of the outlet) but it's close enough to make me think that perhaps someone else has already done this.

I see this is similar to this question but different enough that I'm not sure whether it would apply or not.  I'm also in Ontario (Canada) and I know that NEC and CEC don't always agree, but it's almost always easier to find people who know the NEC than CEC. :-)


texts: Should I avoid running conduit above sewer line exit on basement wall?

texts:
The prior owner of our house had an epoxy repair made on the basement wall where the sewer line exits (see images). We've lived here for 20 years and this repair is solid; there have never been any leaks.

Now I'm working on putting some outlets in the basement, and I'm wondering if I should avoid running conduit along this part of the wall above the exit point. Just in case there might ever be an issue in the future, I was thinking that having a conduit there could complicate a repair in that the electrical work would have to be undone before the wall repair could proceed. I'm not sure if I'm over thinking things, or if it is indeed a good practice to steer clear of this part of the wall, irregardless of the presence of a wall repair.


texts:
I have a hand driver set from iFixit. There's a part included that I can't identify, and because it's an older version of their set, isn't listed on the parts list for the product when I look it up now. In the photos below it's the black cylindrical part.

One end has an opening to fit a 4mm hex bit (this is the interface for all the other bits in the kit). The other end has a completely circular opening, slightly smaller than would take an H4. There's a stop in the middle, and it's magnetic.

I can't put the other driver heads from the kit in the round end, and it has no ability to apply any torque to anything that would connect, because it's round. What is it, and what is it for?


texts: Stapling NM cable to panel backboard on the side of the service panel. Any NEC 2017/2020 concerns?

texts:
Wasn’t able to use the suggestion in this answered thread Securing NM wiring on the electrical panel back board - Multi-cable staple the way I thought “nipples” on top of the panel would work out.
Can it be confirmed that running 12/2 (or any NM) wire out of the panel to the joists in the below pictured way (in an unfinished basement) is not violating any NEC 2017/2020 sections? The cables would come out of the side knockouts, secured by clamps, bend 90deg to go up the panel backboard to the joists, and secured by single or multi cable staples (gray) to the panel backboard (within 12" and then a few more), and then at the joist as well.
My main concern is that somehow 300.4 (Protection against physical damage) is being violated, but if there are any other concerns, please let me know.  I did see this answered question but it was for older code and the answer wasn’t quite definitive Must NM cables around panels in unfinished basements be protected?


texts: Can I connect a household heater to a 240V garage outlet?

texts:
My husband (not living) had a separate 240V outlet installed in the garage that he could plug his Snap-On truck in to charge. I just remember him talking about how he would plug in his truck (Snap-On dealer).
Anyways. I have a 120VAC 1500W infrared heater.  Can I use this outlet for that? I can't seem to plug it anywhere in the house because it trips every breaker.  House was built in 1976. No upgrade 3 circuits not counting the one in the garage. I don't want to do the wrong thing.


texts: I have a GE oven and am getting a strong odor when I use any of the burners or the oven. The odor reminds me of the smell a kerosene heater would put out when being used. I haven't cleaned the oven at all lately, and there hasn't been any kind of work done in my house. The smell is definitely coming from use of the oven.


texts:
I'm trying to figure out the best approach for this issue I ran into. So I have a door jamb that sits at 79.5" wide and the actual frame is at 79.25" wide.

I have 3 options:

trim either the hinge or doorknob side down. Cons: Weakens either the hinge frame side or the passage latch will have to feed into the wall stud in the frame.
trim the frame entry, Cons: harder to do, chances wont be a clean cut, thou can be hidden
take 1/4" off the top of the door frame and door itself

I cant decide which one I should do. Would love some advice on what you thoughts around this are.


texts: Which exterior outlet cover is required by NEC?

texts:
There are two types of outlet covers used on external outlets. The first type is for damp locations that covers the outlet when it's not in use:

And the second type is for wet locations that allow the outlet to be sealed while in use:

How is wet vs damp defined by NEC to differentiate when one cover is required over another?

  NEC 406.8 Receptacles in Damp or Wet Locations: "A receptacle
  installed outdoors in a location protected from the weather or in
  other damp locations shall have an enclosure for the receptacle that
  is weatherproof when the receptacle is covered (attachment plug cap
  not inserted and receptacle covers closed).". And "receptacles
  installed in a wet location shall have an enclosure that is
  weatherproof whether or not the attachment plug cap is inserted."


texts: How can I color/style match concrete patch to old sidewalk? See image

texts:
As you can see, I attempted patching an old spalling concrete sidewalk with premix concrete patching product. I was very disappointed with the results. The color isn't remotely close to the existing sidewalk and it did not trowel out as smooth as I'd hoped. My question is first, how should I remove the failed patch attempt? And how can I get a better match to the existing?

It doesn't have to be perfect. I thought about mixing actual concrete, patching, and then pushing in sand and pea gravel at the top to try to replicate the texture and color. Would that work?


texts: Can a non-expandable filter be used in place of an EZ flex furnace filter?

texts: My Carrier furnace has the EZ flex filters (16x25x5).  These come with the plastic end caps that fit on the expandable filters.  Can a regular filter, non expandable, of the same dimensions be used as a replacement?


texts:
I'm about to block up this doorway and have noticed damp in the bottom corner. If I were to lay a DPC between the screed and first layer of blocks, would that solve the issue....or is it going to require specialist attention?

This is how it looks from the outside, also evidence of damp I think:

This is an extension to the original house (about 10 years ago), midlands UK. Thanks!


texts: How to protect a new wood floor from renovation traffic

texts:
I have had hardwood flooring installed in my home, with further renovation (kitchen) upcoming. The kitchen floor is tile which I'm not worried about, but to get to and from the kitchen means travelling over the hardwood (urethane finish). The installers used cardboard from the shipping boxes to protect the floor as they were working over it. To keep the cardboard from sliding around, it was taped down with painter's tape. It only took them a few days to complete the work, after which I had no trouble removing the tape. The kitchen work is another matter; there will be activity spread over a few weeks.

I'm thinking of using the same technique as the flooring installers - lay down cardboard and secure with painter's tape, but I've read that you can only rely on 7-14 day release. Is this true? Will I have problems removing the tape from the flooring if left in place for 3-4 weeks? Will it damage, discolor or cloud the finish if left that long?


texts: What is the purpose of a Pressurised hot water cylinder

texts:
Does a pressurised hot water cylinder have to deal with just higher pressure mains cold water or does it also have to cope with the heating element being heated by a sealed high pressure central heating system.

To put it another way if I wanted to change to a sealed central heating system, but keep my hot water system as it is - open vented, could I keep my existing hot water cylinder or would i need to change it.


texts: GE Dishwasher - Control Pad Buttons Won't Respond (gld5660v00ss)

texts:
I have a GE gld5660v00ss Dishwasher that no longer responds. The "Normal Wash" and "Heated Dry" buttons are lit, but no other buttons respond. The Start button does nothing, and none of the other buttons light up when pressed.

The door itself latches, and still beeps when latched but that's it.

Is it time for a new dish washer?

Looks like all the replaceable electronic components are $100+ and might not fix the problem.

I thought maybe the dishwasher was locked, and tried holding down the "Heated Dry" button for 3 seconds, but that was not the case.

Help!


texts: How should location on roof be flashed or sealed?

texts: During hurricane Florence we had significant water get into our house from the roof.  There is a location in our roof (see pic) where from inside in the attic I am able to stick a toothbrush through and see nearly all of it from outside the house.  What would be the appropriate way to flash this or seal it to prevent water from coming into the attic from this location?


texts:
I moved into a 30 year old house this fall.  The bedroom at the front of the house is colder then the others.  Two sides of the room are brick exterior walls vs siding.  I was in the attic running cable for a poe camera and noticed the brick wall.

Not sure if this is the cause of the cold room but the top of the brick wall is exposed?  From what I have read air gaps are required.  I could not find anything referring if the air gap should be sealed?


texts: Should I be worried if I missed the studs while mounting my TV?

texts: I think I missed the studs based on how easily the drill moved through the drywall. My LCD only weighs 27lbs and the mount itself is 5lbs (rated to hold 165lbs, and uses 4 8mm lag bolts). I pulled as hard as I could downward on the tv and nothing moved at all, everything seems pretty sturdy.  Should I be worried? Is there something I can test in a week or so, to see if it will continue to hold strong?


texts: Replacing Dimmable Halogen Spot light with LED dimmable or non Dimmable LED spotlights

texts:
I have old fashion dimmable halogen spotlight mounted on my ceiling, and I would like to replace them with LED spot lights.

My questions are:

Would I have to replace the existing transformers to use dimmable LED spotlights?
If so, would I also have to replace the existing transformers if I chose instead to use non-dimmable LED spotlights?


texts: How can I calculate the Btus needed for a single room A/C unit?

texts: How many Btus is recommended for a room about 35 square meters? I have 2 units with 13,000 Btus each. I'm thinking it should be enough, but the room is just so-so cool. I can never say it's COLD in the room.


texts: Turning the faucet just a little bit makes the water too cold?

texts:
When I'm showering the faucet is usually turned well towards the hot side. Everything is fine and dandy. But sometimes I realize that the water is too hot so I turn the faucet ever so slightly to the right to make it just a tad less hot.

But within 15 seconds, the water has gone from boiling hot to decently cold making me quickly shoot the faucet back to the left. I imagine that if I don't turn the faucet  back left within 30 seconds the water would probably be freezing cold.

What causes this? How can I fix it? Is it not possible to turn the faucet ever so slightly and get a moderately warm temperature?


texts: Old house--no neutral wire for Nest Protect?

texts:
I'm not particularly electrically inclined, but am giving a go to setting up a wired Nest Protect where an old smoke detector was installed. The device says to connect its white wire to the white (or grey) wire from the wall, but I don't seem to see one of those. Is it possible I don't have a neutral wire here? I read that in some cases brown may be the neutral, so I've got it hooked up that way at the moment, but am not getting the green light from the Protect.

The house was built in 1930 (in California) and still has a fair amount of old wiring.

TIA for any suggestions.


texts: Switching out old broken shaver socket for new one. Having trouble working out how to unwire the existing socket

texts:
I'm trying to work out how to unwire an existing shaver socket.
There are no obvious fasteners to loosen, just these weird red tabs that click backwards and forwards and can be pulled out entirely. Trying these options though doesn't seem to make any difference to the cables, which I'm unable to remove.

It's pretty hard to Google for this issue.
FYI, I'm in the United Kingdom.
Any ideas?

Cheers.


texts: How should I fur out cement board in shower stall to match the original mortar position?

texts:
I have a 1950's house where, in wet areas like shower stalls, the original mortar behind the tiles is 1 1/2'to 2' thick. I had to remove one side of a stall and need to replace it (it mighty be a little leaky otherwise :)).

Question is, to shim out the wall so the tile correctly meets in the corners and on the pan, should I just use a full sheet of 1/2'+ plywood behind the cement board, directly onto the studs, or just strips of plywood on the studs, or some other solution?


texts:
We purchased a 60 year old house a year ago, and the builders report suggested no issues.

The main roof of the house is tile over wooden rafters, and the attic space is dry.

There is an extension, done very early on in the life of the house, extending one of the bedrooms beyond the main roof, and the extensions roof consists of an almost flat metal roof, starting underneath the existing roofs eaves and extending outward away from the house.  There is a slight (5 degree perhaps, without getting a protractor out) pitch to the extensions roof.

The extensions roof consists of flat metal sections interspersed with rafters on top of the roof, and these are also covered in metal.

The roof has a leak on one half of it, but we cannot seem to find any obvious place externally where the leak may be when inspecting the roof externally.  We cannot inspect the roof internally, there is no cavity of note. Externally, while the roof can do with a repaint, it looks in fair repair to a non-expert.

Can anyone suggest approaches to track down the leak, or general approaches to mitigating such leaks in these style roofs?


texts: Washer makes humming noise, does not agitate, but can drain and fill water?

texts:
This is the same Frigidaire FEX831FS4 washer and dryer combo which few weeks ago due to unbalanced load the switch wire had snapped. I spliced the wire back together and washer worked again for a month.

However, the washer again stopped to work in the middle of cycle while it was full with water. This time it was small load. Washer was completely unresponsive until a small click, like relay, is heard coming either from door lock or most likely motor area (not yet 100% sure which one). When that click happens I am able to fast forward to the end of cycle and washer was able to drain all the water from the drum. And after attempting to start a new cycle it was able to fill with water, but it won't ever spin. After filling with water, the washer again becomes unresponsive until the same click happens again.

Also, the knob on front controller board (where is timer) has started to make this strange humming noise, which makes me think that motor may be still be good and that the washer could be repairable.

What could it be the root cause this time? Why the strange humming noise coming from that knob? Could it be that this is another issue creeping up due to unbalanced load that happened month ago - I remember that the wire that snapped appeared a little burnt in the are - possibly because of touching the washer frame.


texts: GFI Outlet Tripping (A/C and Extension Cord)

texts:
Looking for any insight on my situation:
I have an A/C unit that is rated 15A, 1240W, 115V. Since all of the bedroom and living room outlets in my apartment are all on the same 15A breaker, I decided to run a heavy duty extension cord to plug this A/C unit into one of the few outlets that is on its own breaker. It's a GFI outlet in the kitchen and the breaker is rated at 20A. In order to reach the kitchen from the bedroom where the A/C unit is, I ran a 10-gauge, 30A, 50-foot extension cord.
After the A/C unit runs for about thirty seconds, the GFI on the outlet trips and the unit shuts off. I did some research before purchasing the extension cord and felt confident that it was a high enough gauge to not cause an electrical hazard; I also figured the 20A breaker would be sufficient since the A/C unit rated at 15A. However, I never considered the GFI on the outlet. Is the outlet possibly faulty or 'extra sensitive', thus the break after I turn the unit on?
Any help would be much appreciated!


texts:
The above door is set in a double stud wall. On the left side of the door is a skim coated stud that sits about 1" out from the door frame and on the right side the double thick wall sits 4.5" out.  On left, top and right side there is at most 2" of space between the door frame and adjacent wall/ceiling.  What would I use as trim for this door?

Im thinking about just using a 1x4 stained and cut to fit so it will sit flush with the stud on the left and butt up again the ceiling and double thick wall on the right, would that look silly?

EDIT

I did some more research and it looks like another option would be to fur out the left and top to be even with the double stud wall and add an extension jamb.  Then, trim the door normally.  What should I know about installing extension jambs?  Should they be flush with the existing jamb or offset?

Left side

Right side


texts: How do I safely get glue off of wood that's to be stained?

texts:
I'm building a closet and I've just made doors for it. It's red oak wood with a rail & stile construction and raised  panels. I was a little careless and some of the wood glue (Titebond) escaped through the joints and are visible outside (see the picture on the right).

Normally, I would just sand it off if it was on a flat surface, but given that they're in the corners (and a little on the sides), it'll be harder to sand without gouging. I plan on staining it and am wondering what would be the best approach to removing the glue so that the wood will absorb the stain without any patchiness.

I was thinking that some cotton wool lightly dipped in mineral spirits should be sufficient to remove the glue, without any effect on the wood. Is this a good approach? Are there alternatives to this?


texts: One light with two switches, changed one to dimmer, blew fuse

texts:
I have a kitchen light that had two different switches on either side of the kitchen. I replaced the light with a dimmable LED mount and changed one switch to a LED comparable dimmer which works great but when I flip the switch on the other wall the fuse blows.
Do I need to get a similar dimmer for the other switch too?
Why is that happening, Any suggestions?


texts:
Just bought a 25 year old home that has improperly installed insulation in the crawlspace. The insulation is fiberglass rolls with a paper backing, and is installed with the paper facing down, toward the ground. When the home inspector and I explored the crawlspace, we could see green mold growing on the joists where we pulled the vapor barrier aside to peek up into the cavity.

The source of moisture seems to be a concrete pad that butts against the foundation and collects water from the shed that sits atop it. I plan to remove that shed and the concrete pad before doing work with the insulation.

I intend to replace the insulation with either the same type or a plastic vapor barrier cut to fit between the joists and un-faced insulation instead. The new insulation will be installed with the vapor barrier facing the living space.

My question is about the mold: once the old insulation is pulled out of the crawlspace, how should the joists and flooring be cleaned to inhibit further mold development? Is there a recommended time period to leave the joists exposed to dry? I will be doing this in the Fall when we are likely to have dry weather, and outside temps will be closer to inside.


texts: Are old work electrical boxes acceptable for roughing in?

texts:
My landlord is repairing a room in our home.  He ripped out all the plaster and left just the lath boards.  HE has "roughed in" using old-work drywall boxes.  I don't know if he plans on screwing them to a stud when he is done. or cutting the drywall and locking down the tab.

I know NEC section 314.23(b)(1) states:

  Nails and screws, where used as a fastening means, shall be attached by using brackets on the outside of the enclosure, or they shall pass through the interior within 6 mm (1/4 in.) of the back or ends of the enclosure.

Is this right? He had cut parts of the lath for running cables, so the wall is technically exposed in some parts.


texts: I have one 30A 120V single phase circuit and three 30A 120V single phase loads.  How do I switch between the three, i.e one is on and the other two are off?


texts:
I am about to install a new radiator in my apartment; we removed the old one without noting the direction of water flow. So I now have two pipes sticking out of the floor and I don't know which is which. The pipes are now capped.

The new radiator is marked for the direction of flow; through the valve and in at the top of the radiator. Will it make much difference if the new radiator is connected backwards, water going in at the bottom and the valve after the radiator? And if it is important, how do I establish the direction without flooding my apartment?


texts: After repairing pcv pipes on my water line I have very little water pressure. 1/2 pvc pipe ; no leaks just no pressure

texts: I repaired pvc pipe with new fittings ; no leaks ; but I now have no water pressure. 1/2 in pipe


texts: How many blades should a decorative windmill have?

texts:
I have decided that my next yard project is going to be a decorative windmill.  I am NOT going to pump water or generate electricity with the windmill, I just want it to turn in the wind and look nice.  It will be (approx) three feet in diameter and be around ten feet off the ground.

I live in a tree filled part of Atlanta, Georgia, which means that the wind will be pretty low.

There seem to be two options - a three blade system, which will generate a high rpm, as detailed here Wind Generator or the traditional farmer's windmill,

From what I've read, both options assume a load of some sort, either a generator or a water pump, and a high wind.  I will have no load on the mill and poor wind.

Does anyone know which of these will work better in a low wind, no load situation?  My goal is to have the blades turn as much of the time as possible.


texts: I am in the process of making some drawers for one of my cabinets. I have a rough idea of how I will do it, but if someone who has made this kind of drawer could tell me what all I will need it would be very helpful for me.


texts: The stairs in our home being built (production builder) is concerning. The gaps in risers and treads doesn't seem right. When seeing all other homes in same neighborhood under construction they do not have gaps and risers are plywood allowing a butt to be flush. There is carpet going to be installed so the builder is not concerned about gaps. I know it will be covered but years later what problem will this cause when we want hard finished stairs. My other concern is there was no wood glue used at all. Will I be dealing with squeaky stairs in a year? What things can I do myself to ensure no squeaks? Drywall has already been installed so I have no access to underside.


texts: How can I place treads on these stairs around a corner?

texts:
I have built the start of these stairs. It's a difficult concept for me to build stairs around a corner so I cut part of the deck so it wasn't an abrupt 90 degrees going into the stairs (which wouldn't have really worked anyways).

I am at the point now of putting the tread on the stairs. I have a few boards screwed down already to keep the spacing between the stringers the same but how do I go about getting rid of the gap between the first tread and the stringer "toes" edge?

You can see in my picture there is a gap where I placed my pencil. My plan was to cut the boards at the same angle the stringers are at. So basically every board will end on a full 2x4 stringer top. Thats why I doubled some stringers. Any thoughts? Even if I cut the board on the left at an angle I will still have that gap. You should be able to see the pencil in both pictures.


texts: How do I fix a sprinkler valve that leaks instead of popping up the sprinkler heads?

texts:
When this particular valve (Champion Classic 3/4" As Max PSI 150 466 Max Temp 110o) turns on, a lot of water starts coming out of the the bottom part of the valve which I've highlighted in the image. I can see the sprinkler heads get a little wet, but they don't "pop". Can somebody tell me what that spot on the valve is for and what I could do fix the problem?

The longer version in case it's helpful: A short while ago, my wife flipped out because the sprinkler made a sound of being on, but water wasn't coming out of the sprinkler heads. I turned off the controller (which is located in an inconvenient spot) that night, so I could revisit it the following weekend. When I looked at it, I saw the main sprinkler valve was mostly shut (my three year old at work, no doubt). So I turned it back on, and the following sprinkler schedule had the same problem. I turned the controller off again. The following weekend, I experimented with the system and the first zone was the only one with the problem outlined above. I can't find anything similar on the internet, and hoping somebody has some guidance.


texts: How should I prepare subfloor for backerboard installation in bathroom tiling project?

texts:
A couple questions about installing tile in my second floor powder room. There is tile in our kitchen on the same floor.

I assume because of the kitchen tile on the same floor that my engineered floor truss joists are strong enough to handle tile. Safe assumption?
I replaced about half the subfloor sheathing due to rotting. The new sheathing looks much nicer and flatter than the old sheathing I left on. How important is it for the subfloor to be absolutely smooth before I lay the thin set + concrete backerboard?
I left gaps between the new and old subfloor sheathing (and the walls) of about 1/4 inch (slightly more in a few spots). Do I need to fill these gaps with anything before I lay the thin set + backerboard?


texts: Can my water heater's relief valve discharge line and drain pan line merge into a common pipe?

texts:
Currently, I only have a T&P relief discharge line that runs down to just above the pedestal and out through the exterior wall. I would like to install a drain pan under the water heater.
I want to cut my relief discharge line and install a tee in order to connect my drain pan's line and allow both to exit using the existing pipe. My concern is that this might allow water flowing down from the relief valve to flow back into the pan and overflow it.
Is this a recommended solution?


texts:
I had my propane company come to install a Tankless water heater & dryer. They changed the regulator at the tanks but didn't get a perfect flare so that junction had a very small leak. 2 months later I noticed that I had used 70% of my propane.  I complained to the supplier and was told that only Vapor was leaking and that it would not account for the fuel loss. This sounds like pure BS to me.  Is there any reason that I should believe them????

The other factors involved are: This is a summer rental home so the home was vacant for the 2 months in question.
The propane furnace is only used for emergency heat  when the heat pump can't keep up.  The first cold snap we had the temperature dropped to 35 on the first floor.
My HVAC guy checked it out and found that my furnace was dead and not capable of burning any propane.


texts:
I'm installing an air conditioner above a bedroom window, but there's no electric outlet nearby. I'm to avoid running wire along the wall, and I noticed that the light fixture receptacle has an empty conduit pointing in the direction of the window.
If it reaches the window (or close enough to it) I could drill near the window and put an outlet there. However, I have no way of telling if the conduit continues straight ahead or curves to somewhere. I put a snake wire in it, and it goes in fairly easily more than the distance from the light fixture to the window.

Is there any way to trace the path of the empty conduit? It's embedded in a concrete ceiling, about two or three inches deep.


texts: over time the molding around the door frame has pulled out a little and we always just use a hammer and block of wood to put it back into place, but recently my door was slammed and now it's completely pulled away from the wall. Not sure if theirs anything I can do about this. iv got power tools but no knowledge on what to do.


texts: What should I know about radon levels at home? What levels are safe and do they affect resale value?

texts:
My wife and I are looking to buy our first home.  We recently found one, but a report says the radon levels inside the home are unsatisfactory.  I've never really been aware of radon levels in homes before, but of course, look it up and it's not a good thing to have.  :-/

What are the options that I have to mitigate radon levels in the home?
If radon levels inside the home are high, and a mitigation system is installed, does that mean radon levels outside the home will be just as high?  What I mean is, are radon levels only a worry inside because they collect in an enclosed space VS outside in the open air where it's diluted?
The recent bad report has made me reconsider purchasing this home, even when negotiating price to compensate for radon mitigation.  Is my worry justified?  Or can installing a system fix it enough to where it's a non-issue?


texts: US-Michigan Can I use two ground terminal bars in a sub panel?

texts:
I'm finishing the electrical rough-in on a 100 amp subpanel for a new workshop.  I have unbonded the neutral, and run two ground rods on 6AWG bare copper and also have a ground conductor coming from the main panel.  I'm wondering, is it OK to use two ground terminal bars in the sub panel for the sake of making wiring easier / neater? (One on either side.)  If so, should I run a conductor between the bars?

The reasoning is, this particular cabinet has plug on neutrals which go the vertical height of the panel.  It makes it very convenient to run all of a drop to near the same place, but if there's only one ground bar and it's on the other side of the panel, I end up having to run the ground all around the panel to the other side, making it tougher to keep it neat.

Thanks for your help!


texts: Do I need a hydraulic jack to do main beam jacking?

texts:
I am planning to do some minor jacking of the main beam of my house (two stories with a lot of furniture and books) and some of the joists in order to correct a sag of about 1/2" and replace old "timbers" (literally tree trunks) with concrete lolly columns. According to books I have covering this kind of renovation, the recommendation is to use a hydraulic jack (like a 40-tonner) to do a micro-lift, then actually hold it with a screw jack (say a 25-tonner). After the screw jack is tight, you remove the hydraulic jack. Then the next month you put the hydraulic jack back again and repeat the process. You only need one hydraulic jack which can be used to service all your screw jacks.

On the other hand I have read accounts of people doing small jacking jobs and they seem to claim that you can actually lift with the turning bar/screw jack directly and seem to have success without the added help of a hydraulic.

Should I get the hydraulic jack or just try manually using the screw jacks alone first?


texts: Correct fixture for plasterboard that has another board behind it

texts:
I'm trying to put up a whiteboard on a plasterboard wall. I am screwing the holes from one end into a stud, but the other end does not line up with a stud. I therefore planned on using wallmates. However, when I tried putting a wallmate in, I hit a second board behind the plasterboard.

As best I can tell, it's some kind of wood, quite thin. I drilled through it and tried to put the wallmate in again, but it just won't go and started to pull the plasterboard outwards.

Can anyone tell me what the second board might be (I'm in Australia, if that helps)? It's a study, so wasn't really expecting anything other than gyprock. Also, what fixture would be best?


texts: How can I install a nest thermostat with no wires?

texts: I have zoned heating/AC/heat pump.  My original thermostat on the wall is NOT connected to any wires, in other words it is wireless.  I thought it had wires so bought the new Nest thermostat.  Unfortunately when taking the original thermostat off the wall discovered it has no wires connected to furnace.  Is there any way I can still hook up the Nest thermostat since there are no wires from the furnace to the original thermostat?


texts:
I need to remove a 45 yo cast iron tub for a remodeling job and don't want to damage the surrounding walls etc too much. How were these things attached? And how do I unhook the plumbing etc to remove it?
Thanks!


texts: Teflon (plumbers tape) to seal hot water pipe leak from the outside?

texts:
Hi there,

This is some piping to my Saxon hot water system. Just above where the white/green corrosion is is where the leak is.

My question is, can I use plumbers tape on the outside of this to seal the leak?

I do not want to pull it apart as I don't know what I am doing. I am basically after a quick fix and thought plumbers tape (teflon tape) would suffice. If not are there any other options? (other than the obvious in getting a plumber out (again!).


texts: AFCI/GFCI breaker trips immediately with "extra" ground

texts:
I recently installed some AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers. One of them kept tripping immediately, so I tracked down the problem to where a neutral and ground were joined. (There was just the one neutral in that box.) To confirm that this was the problem, I disconnected the neutral from the ground and ran a neutral wire to another nearby box in the same circuit and connected it to neutral there.  Problem solved!

Almost.

 S---------L
 |
 S3------S3
          |
          |
 O--------O

It looks like the above. The outlet (O) on the left is fed into from earlier in the circuit. It connects to the right, which connects up to a 3-way switch (S3), which connects left to the other 3-way switch, which then feeds a regular switch (S) to a light (L) (independent of the 3-ways). S3 on the right has an isolated neutral from O that is capped off. S3 on the left therefore has no neutral to contribute to the S and L part, so they just tied the neutral there to the ground, which was my problem.

To test this, I ran a neutral between the left 3-way switch and outlet, joining their neutrals. That's what worked. But when I ran the 12-2, I also joined their grounds, and that caused the AFCI/GFCI to trip immediately when I turned it on. (Actually, with a half-second delay -- it tripped immediately if there was any load on the circuit.) And if I disconnect those grounds it works again.

So there's my question: why would having an extra ground there be the difference between AFCI/GFCI tripping or not tripping?

The bottom receptacles are all on that circuit, too, but always hot (not switched).

It's all working, so this isn't urgent, but I'm baffled and would like to know what's going on!

Thanks.


texts: How to repaint an antique exterior door?

texts:
I am about to repaint my 100 year old front door, from white to black. I have reviewed the existing Q&A on the site, but none seem to specifically cover my issues. The door

has been previously painted with what appears to be latex/acrylic paint (although there are probably remnants of old oil based paint under there somewhere)
has a dull look, but does not seem too chalky
is in pretty good shape, does not need a lot of repair/filling, and the paint is not chipping
is Dutch style with 30 small windows and a dozen molded panels
I am only painting the outside face, and not repainting the edges.

.

How do I go about painting the door so the finish looks good, is durable, and takes the least reasonable amount of work?

Specific issues:

Do I need to sand or is a good wash down enough? Or maybe a liquid sander? All that cutting in will be hard enough without struggling to sand all those mullions and moldings (to say nothing of not scratching 100 year old glass).
Do I need to prime, or is the old paint (cleaned a bit) good enough?
Is there any special paint, other than exterior trim (probably satin or semigloss) to consider?
Is there any additive I should use with the paint for flow, finish, hardness?
Do I really need more than 2 coats?
Is there something else I am failing to ask/think about?


texts: How do I identify the breaker a non-working outlet is on?

texts: I have an electrical outlet that doesn’t work and needs to be changed. Is there anyway to figure out what circuit breaker is attached to the outlet to avoid switching off the main power to the whole house?


texts: Closing a fireplace to the inside but opening it to the outside

texts:
We are buying a house that has a fireplace in the den. I want to turn the den into the kitchen.  It’s the perfect space for it in the house. The laundry room is on the other side of the wall, so we have water and there is a gas fireplace on the other wall which we would use for a gas range.
My question is how much would it cost and is it possible to seal off the inside opening of the fireplace and then cut an opening on the outdoor side of the chimney and create an outdoor wood burning fireplace? Do that instead of removing the entire chimney and fireplace. So completely cutting it off from the inside and making it a functional outdoor fireplace instead.


texts: Installing Levitron Digital Dimmer with Matching Remote

texts:
I have a Levitron Digital Dimmer (DDL06-1LZ) and matching remote (DD00R-DLZ). Dimmer is at bottom of the stairs and the remote at the top.  Wire it all according to the diagram and dimmer doesn't function, and remote has not LED lights lit.  The instructions with the DDL06 says no neutral is required. A neutral is required with the DD00R.  I;m assuming, and this is my question, if I use the neutral for the DD00R (in this three way setup) then I need the neutral for the DDL06 (to complete the circuit), correct?  Thanks in advance...

BTW... there is very little on the Internet about the DDL06.  So, I'm assuming it's a fairly new dimmer. Does anyone know what dimmer this is a replacement for, if any?


texts:
I’m building a set of outdoor stairs down a 14 foot drop over 60 feet. I’m going to use 6x6 as the front edge treads and then backfill.

This means the wood will be in contact with the ground. I am aware this will limit its lifetime. My question is whether PT will last significantly longer in this situation than hemlock?

The local sawmill has rough 6x6 hemlock for 550/1000 vs about 20 for a PT 8’. Unless the PT lasts way longer the 40% difference seems worth it?

Any other suggestions on outdoor stairs?


texts: Can I mount kitchen island countertop supports to the cabinet back panel?

texts:
I'm finishing up my kitchen island and have a 36" deep piece of laminate top. It overhangs 12" on the back of the two 33" wide base cabinets.

I know it is common practice to install L brackets to support the overhang, but that means the bracket is screwing into the thin particle wood backing the cabinets have. Is this sufficient? Is there a better way as Norm Abram would say?

I saw online some marble cantilever supports that work in a way that they run across the entire top of the cabinet base making it so the weight of that area counters the 12" overhang.  They require notching out the back of the base cabinet just enough so the bracket sits flush with the rest of the surface.  These seem both expensive and maybe not made for a laminate style countertop.


texts: Non-destructive test to determine 110V electrical in backyard pipes?

texts:
I have 3 plastic pipes in my backyard and one (two?) of them have 110V lines in them. All wires - hot, neutral and potentially ground are inside the pipe so I can't just use a clamp meter / current transformer. Image below, you can see two white PVC pipes and one grey PVC pipe.

Without destroying the outer PVC pipes, how can I determine which plastic pipes are carrying the real 110V circuits and which ones are just empty? I can turn on the hot tub at the end of the circuit to start/stop electricity. I also have basic tools like voltmeters and a clamp meter.


texts: when I turn the light switch to the ON position, the light goes off.  When I turn the switch to the Off position, the light goes on.  Never had this problem before. Why?  Nothing was changed.


texts:
My computer runs on a normal 120v plug at 1000w at the wall which is about 8.5 amps. the PSU works on 240 and 120 so i decided to plug it into a 240 outlet i use for homebrewing and it only pulls 4.2 amps now, i cant tell watts because my wattmeter is only good for 120v so i just used my amp clamp on the multimeter.
So if I'm pulling half the amps does that mean my power usage at the street is lower? Like would my power bill go down if i started using 240 for all my dual voltage electronics?


texts: I have to add a two ft. mast to my house.  Could I use a wire connector to add wire so that I do not have to run new wire?  If I can, is there something I can use to allow me to get to the splice if necessary?  Thank you for your help!A


texts: Adding separate wire to convert 6-2 Cable to 6-3 Wiring

texts:
I have an installed but not hooked up 6/2 cable (black, white and ground, like this) in my garage for potential future use with an EV charger. I am finishing the garage and will be covering up the cable but am worried that I might actually need a 6/3 cable instead to support a 14-50 receptacle. I prefer the 14-50 as they seem to be more versatile and common for EV charging than say a 6-50.

Similar questions have asked whether existing 6/2 cabling can be used to hook up to a 14-50 as is, or how to run a new wire in parallel. In my case I have the following additional questions:

Is it safe (I know it is possible) to wire up a 14-50R with a 6/2 cable, leaving the neutral terminal empty?
Since I still have the walls open, can I run a separate wire like this through the studs alongside the existing 6/2 cable? I.e. am I missing something by not having that wire be part of the sheathing with the 6/2 cable and not armored (as recommended in the linked question above)?


texts: How do I replace the bulb in this enclosed bathroom ceiling light?

texts: There is a small groove between the white and black sections, but it doesn't come loose with slotting a screwdriver in the groove.


texts: Do I need a special receptacle when more than the standard number of wires need to be connected?

texts:
I've got two regular wall outlets controlled by one single pole switch. I want to replace them with new ones, and thought I just needed to grab a couple duplex plugins for them.

Except there's more wires than the duplex outlets have receptacles. I'm looking at 2 blacks, 2 whites, 2 reds (except on the furthest outlet there's only one red as the carrier) and I'm wondering what specific outlet type I need for this bugger to keep this configuration, or do I just cap the pairs and run one lead off them? See image for more details, any education welcome as always.


texts: I have two toolboxes that look like the picture below, with handles which lie down but still make a "bump" about a 1/2" high in the middle of the top so I can't make a stable stack when not in use.  I'm considering doing something to make up the height, a ridge along the ends of the bottom of the top one.  I was thinking maybe I'd epoxy a short length of 1/2" tubing.  Any thoughts?


texts:
Last week an electrician started rewiring our whole house. They started by running new wires into all the rooms and running the wires into gangboxes and into a subpanel in the garage.

I assumed to finish the job they would install the outlets and switches, and then the last step would be disconnecting the power and installing the new main panel and then hooking the power into the panel.

Would that be a typical/logical way to do it?

Instead, the first thing they've done is cut the power, start on installing the main panel and setting up the subpanel. There are zero outlets or switches installed on the new wiring, not to mention none of the light fixtures have been switched over to the new wiring either.

This seems like the exact opposite order they should have done things. Is there some reason for doing it in this order?

There's a really good chance we're going to have no power tonight, or at least only have power in a few outlets unless they work overtime (they started at 8am and it's almost 3pm now)


texts:
I have 4 thermostats located in four different zones and a separate AC thermostat.

I want to get some programmable thermostats for each location.  I could buy 4 individual programmable thermostats but they're like $100+ each.

Is there some product where one thermostat act as the master with all settings, schedules, etc. and the other thermostats only act as receivers (i.e. they only receive a command to set the temp).

Multizone thermostat (where one single thermostat can control multiple zones) doesn't work since there's no master location (all thermostats are in separate locations).


texts: A GFCI controls all the lights in the bathroom

texts: Brand new house, when I test the GFCI in the bathroom, all the lights and fan go off. When I reset the GFCI they all come back on. Is that normal?


texts: Combi boiler not producing enough hot water

texts:
I have a Gloworm flexicom 30 cx combi boiler and when you run a hot tap or shower it only produces hot water for a minute or 2 then runs cold . Sometimes it error codes F25 .
My local heating company have changed the boiler  pump and the plate heat exchanger which have made no difference .
I thought the pump in a combi boiler was only for the Heating (the heating works fine ) and not the hot water ?
can anyone confirm this please ?

thanks in advance

Richard


texts: Fitting sheetrock(plasterboard) to a ceiling, to be taped and skimmed. Should the joints be tightly butted, or leave a gap, of what size?

texts:
I'm fitting square edge 1/2" sheetrock to a ceiling. I've not been able to find any best practice for how this should be fitted.
When the plasterer comes to skim it, some mud will squish through the mesh tape into the gap between the boards. Should the boards be butted tightly together to minimise the length of the tape/mud bridge between them? This also minimises the amount of wet mud below the board surface, that will presumably shrink as it dries.
Should I aim for a 1/16" or even a 1/8" gap between the boards, to encourage a 'fill' of the joint, thus perhaps stiffening the joint between the boards, helping to prevent any movement and the possible development of hair-line cracks? There is now even more wetness below the surface which could exacerbate shrinkage issues.
If I do aim for a significant gap between the boards, is it worth filling this gap with either mud or caulk and allow to dry well before the plasterer skims? This would stiffen the joint, and reduce the amount of wet mud below the tape.
I probably can get a tight joint between the papered long edges of the boards, but with cutting irregularities, that's going to be less possible on any cut ends.


texts: How can I tell if the sagging in my plaster ceiling is getting worse?

texts:
We moved into an old house, and one room still has the original 1890 horsehair lathed plaster all over. On the walls it's the consistency of sawdust held in place by a layer of paint. On the ceiling it is sagging and cracking, but I'd just as soon not fix it right now, which would trigger a bit more of a remodel than I want to do right now.

But my brain keeps thinking the sagging is getting worse...and worse...or maybe it isn't.

Is there a simple way to see if the sagging really is getting worse over time?


texts: Where can I find information on making footbridges with a long span?

texts:
I have a creek I need to cross with a footbridge.  While the creek is only about 3' wide, the main span of the bridge will have to be somewhere between 14-17' feet long, due to low, wet, and loose ground around it.  I also have to deal with wetlands regulations, so I don't want this bridge to be something large that is part of a major project.  It'll be easier to get approval (due to wetlands regulations) if I stick with just wood rather than pouring concrete footings or using other materials or making something like a suspension bridge.  I'm hoping to keep this bridge to a 3' wide walkway with simple railings.

I've found this site on building arched footbridges (he calls them "rainbow bridges").  If I went that way, it would be much more complex than just a flat bridge and I'd have the issue of having to make concrete footings specific to the bridge plan to handle the forces at the end of the arches.

I've seen at least one video of someone making a flat (non-arch) bridge with a 12' span using paired 2x6 boards for each beam.  I have found tutorials on span tables, but I'm not clear if information designed for a larger surface area such as a floor or roof applies to a walkway or bridge that's only 3' wide, where the load is spread out over only 2 or 3 beams.  Also, since the load would be people walking on it, I'm not sure how that breaks down to the amount of weight per square foot.

The idea of using paired or laminated boards as beams sounds appealing, since it's much easier than building an arch.

Will span tables work just as well for what I'm doing as for floors or other surfaces?  If not, where can I find information that will give me an idea of what I'd need to use (such as paired or laminated boards for supports) to give me solid support for a span as long as I need?


texts: What is the fibrous lining in my concrete greywater basin?

texts:
I have a grey water sump pump in the basement of my house (1958, Dayton, OH) that also serves as a grey water basin for the basement utility sink, furnace condenser, and washing machine.  It is a crude bowl shape made from concrete (probably dug out after the slab pour).  In the 12 years I have lived here it has never filled with ground or rain water.  Today while I was clearing a clog from the pump, I noted that it has been some years since I have completely drained the sump and wet vacc up any debris.  The sides of the sump were looking like they had a buildup of old soap on them so I decided to use a paint scraper to clean it off some.
As I started to clean it out I found that the entire sump had a half inch, meshy, carpet like stuff going all the way around it.  I assumed it was just a combination of too many years buildup of hair, lint, soap, and just other yuck and lightly scrapped it out.  It was stuck to the sides, but with not much effort I was able to pull most of it up in 2 or 3 large chunks.  The top edge of this did blend very well into the sides of the sump.  Behind this thing, I also found some very small roots running along it, and a larger one.  I was also able to make out a on-its-side brick in the lining of the sump.
So what I'm wondering is did I just stumble on a obsolete sump lining system and probably should have left it alone?


texts:
I have two windows with torn screens that need to be fixed. I looked up on this forum for similar problems and solutions. I found some but not exactly like mine.

Anyway, can someone take a look at the pictures here and offer some suggestions as to what might be the best way to replace the broken screens.

You might notice the windows are pretty old and I cannot tell who is the manufacturer and what is the brand.


texts: Fence to Fence Post Gap, Fix a Leaning Fence

texts:
There is a big gap (at least 3") between the new fence at one side and old fence at perpendicular side. As you can see in the pic, the old fence is not connecting to the new fence post. Whoever install the new fence (different neighbors) just left the old fence hanging.

If I want to DIY this, what is the easiest and safest way to fix this?


texts: GE dimmer works with 3 LED lights, somewhat with 4 and not at all with 5

texts:
I've got a brand new single pole GE 14294 Z-Wave Plus dimmer.  Before I try to connect it to z-wave, I wanted to make sure it was working.  I have five LED lights (4W, 65mA, BR20 flood) lights in series.  They were dimming fine on my old Leviton dimmer so I know they are OK.

Using the switch itself, the dimmer will switch the lights on and off no problem, but will not dim. BUT, if I unscrew two bulbs, then the remaining three work fine - i.e., the dimmer works correctly.  If I add the 4th back in, the will dim slightly.

I've checked the current, and 3 lights are pulling about 0.2A.  With four that goes up to 0.26A, with five about 0.32A.  Switch is rated for 1500W and is compatible with LED.

I've tried a different 14294 and have exactly the same problem.  Note that at this stage I'm just using the physical switch, so nothing to do with z-wave.

Any ideas?  Bug in the firmware?  Could it be the bulbs?
I Called Jasco/GE and they didn't know.


texts:
I have an issue with the threshold for the back door of my home.  I had to replace the door itself (long story short I needed to install a dog door and didn’t want to mess with the glass in the original door).  Everything went well with the replacement and it works great with the exception of a decent amount of resistance when opening/closing as the bottom of the door/weatherstrip makes contact with the adjustable threshold saddle.  The resistance is enough to put some strain on the bottom hinge.  I first tried to lower the saddle using the adjustment screws and found that they were pretty badly stripped and very difficult to adjust (dirt/debris, who knows).
So, in my mind I have three options:

Remove/replace the adjustable saddle.  I cannot for the life of me see any way to remove this thing.  I also haven’t found anything that matches it exactly anywhere online so finding a suitable replacement might be tough/impossible, even if I manage to remove the old one.
Hack into the adjustable saddle and somehow force it lower.  It’s made of plastic, so I could probably sand or cut away at the top.  This doesn't seem like an ideal option.
Replace the entire threshold.  This seems like the cleanest option and the right way to go, but it also seems like a pretty big job.  It’s kind of an odd door configuration: there are two “doors” (only one of which is actually hinged and opens, the other is fixed in place) that have a jamb between them and the threshold goes underneath both doors in one piece.  Seems that I would have to remove both doors and the doorjamb in order to cleanly remove/replace the entire threshold.

I'm a fairly competent DIYer, there just seem to be some potential major headaches involved with this if I go about it the wrong way.  Thanks in advance for any insight.


texts: Can a wifi thermostat to control milivolt operated fireplace?

texts: Have a propane gas fireplace, controlled by a hand held remote control thermostat. Wish to install a wall mounted wifi controlled thermostat, heat only. Seems that all available thermostats operate with a 24V system and I have been told that my fireplace requires a milivolt system. How do I resolve this problem. It is a country home which I only visit occasionally during the winter.


texts: valley construction with cedar roof on skip sheathing

texts: Is it considered best practice to put solid decking beneath valleys when installing cedar on skip sheathing?


texts: What disadvantages do thermostatic mixing valves have?

texts:
I will soon be buying a new water heater for my home.  I want to set the heater to keep the stored water at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius), and use a thermostatic mixing valve to deliver at most 120 degrees F water to the rest of my house (49 degrees C).

I'm wondering if there are any disadvantages to a thermostatic mixing valve.  In particular, do they ever emit loud noises such as a "clunk" when water starts flowing?

(It may well be that there are not really any disadvantages.  If so, great!)

If there are disadvantages, advice on how to mitigate them would be welcome.

Note: the water in my home is as soft as it gets.  (I live near Seattle, and our water is pretty much melted snow from the Cascade mountain range.  The water company actually adds minerals to the water during processing, as water this soft can be slightly acidic and nobody wants water to dissolve plumbing over time.)  So, mineral buildup inside the mixing valve should be minimal.


texts: My Furnace is a high eff furnace with a power vent. There is a gurgling sound in the power vent pipe, when it is  running.  I noticed that the vent slopes up then has a 90 elbow then slopes down before it goes outside.  I suspect water is being trapped should i fix this so the water flows back to the furnace so it can go into the drain.


texts: I have a NEMA 6-20 240 volt 20amp single outlet.  It has three wire connections on it.  Two hot and one ground. There is a four conductor (including ground) romex cable coming out of the box. What is done with the neutral white wire?  I don't think it is used.  Should it be disconnected at the service panel?


texts: Recommended order for re-shingling a roof and rebuilding a chimney

texts:
I just found out that I should replace my (currently asphalt shingle) roof in the next year. I also was told by a chimney cleaner that in order to use my fireplace, I would need to have the flue re-lined and the chimney rebuilt from the roof up. So I am wondering about recommended order of doing these two projects.

Also, is there any significant cost savings if I get the chimney rebuilt near the same time as replacing the roof?


texts: Concerns with washer and dryer in walk in closet

texts:
We are looking to do a remodel and move the washer and dyer into a walk in closet. I am curious of any concerns or issues regarding having a washer and dryer inside a walk in closet. Mainly, in terms of moisture. Does the washer or dryer product enough moisture in the room that we would need to include a vent? Also, does the drywall in the room need to be the same that is used in bathrooms?

Update: Clarification.
By vent, I mean a separate vent other than the dryer vent. Something like a bathroom ceiling vent in addition to the dryer exhaust vent.


texts:
I recently purchased this vintage sink that was mounted in a cabinet vanity. I am wondering if it is possible to wall mount this and if anyone has any ideas on what I may need. I was thinking about using floating shelf brackets and (hopefully) sliding them in the rear holes and also siliconing it to the wall. I wasn't sure if this was a wall mount sink originally or if it needs to be in a cabinet. Looks like it may have holes/slots for legs too. I have no idea what the brand of the sink is, either. Thanks in advance!

This is how it was originally mounted.


texts: Why are the deck footing blocks set away from the house several inches in this video?

texts: I watched this video (building a free-standing porch) and wondered what is the reason that the back concrete blocks are not tight to the house wall. Basically he places them away from the house by a few inches.


texts:
I had left the dimmer switch for my bedroom light off for a couple days but today I decided to turn it on. The light came up but dimming it caused it to go out. The dimmer then stopped working period (with the light off)
What could be the cause for this?


texts: What do I have to do to prepare my garage floor for paint?

texts:
I'd like to paint my garage floor, possibly with textured paint.

What do I have to do in order to get my garage floor, which is currently dirty and somewhat oily, ready for something like an epoxy-based, textured paint?


texts: What is 'hardware cloth' sold as in the UK?

texts:
Some instructions I am following from an American site call for 'hardware cloth'. It's a kind of square wire mesh, that can take weight. I can't find this on any UK sites (the closest I could find is chicken wire, which I expect wouldn't be as strong). Presumably it has a different name. What is it?

http://www.thesodacanstove.com/pot-support/index.html


texts: Does 2" of spray foam mean 2", or are measurements like with finished lumber?

texts:
I just had (and paid for) 2" of spray foam on my crawl space walls. I checked the thickness today and it is rarely 2" thick, usually just under 1.5", and sometimes just 1" thick.

Is this normal? Or should I be requesting a 25-ish% refund?


texts: 1972 York Furnace wiring to a blower motor

texts: This is a pic for an earlier question on the subject of wiring a blower motor with newer model (motor)...the new model has extra wires the old motor did not have.  I don't know what to do with two extra black wires.  And not to sure what to do with the brown and the brown/white wires to the capacitor.  Please help ...heat is killing me.


texts: What causes portions of drywall mud/patch plaster to become discolored and harder?

texts:
I was having water issues on the wall above my fireplace, after gutters/tuck pointing/some roofing being fixed the water has stopped.

I went to patch some of the areas that had the worst water damage. Scraped off the affected areas, let everything sit for a week in-case there was additional water, applied patch plaster.

I am having places where when the plaster dries it is a different color than the surrounding plaster and it is MUCH harder. So hard it is almost unsandable completely where the rest of the plaster seems to be about as hard to sand as any other hot mud I've dealt with.

Am I doing something wrong or is there something leeching out of the wall into the plaster that I need to be worried about?


texts: How to address ghost who moves runner (rug) constantly?

texts:
I have an old 1950s house which is apparently haunted by the original owner who passed away prior to my purchasing it. She likes to move the runner (thin rug) to either side of the hallway several times per day.

I recenter the rug at least 4x per day but I always find it completely pressed against either wall shortly after. I do not notice it moving off center when I walk on it.

Is there anyway to keep it in place? I know a relative who nailed their rug to the floor but I have new carpet and would prefer a less drastic solution.


texts:
I'm adding onto a 220v circuit that I installed a few years ago.  I knew I would likely want a 220v outlet in my garage, the current circuit runs 4AWG to a spot 5' from the garage wall.  It currently runs a mini oven/range in my guest kitchen (30A).

The immediate needed in my garage is a 5A rated electric motor, but I want to be able use it for a 50A welder that I1  might buy in the future.

Since there are numerous 220v, generally differing in amp ratings, I'm not sure what to use for the new outlet/plug.  Do I use a low amp plug & outlet now and add another high amp outlet whenever I get a welder?  Do I install a 50A outlet and plug now and be done?

Also, the circuits breaker is currently rated for the 30A range load.  I assume the full 30A would only be used if all 4 burners and the oven were heating simultaneously. (Probably never has been done since I installed it 10 yrs ago)   Are there any safety issues with keeping the 30A breaker, or do I need to install a 35A one immediately?

FWIW, my property is not legally required to follow code, but safety is a high priority.  I follow code unless there is an edge case where code makes no sense.

The motor's nameplate specs:


texts: What modern 20 amp breaker is compatible with my Challenger panel?

texts:
I have a bad 20 amp challenger breaker that I need to replace. Can anyone tell me which replacement to buy. Here’s the info from the breaker:

20 Amp
Challenger
Und.Lab.Inc.Listed
Circuit Breaker
1 pole unit.  E16248
Issue No. MC-1253
Type C 120/240 VAC
36 LB IN. LUG Torque
HACR TYPE SWD
LR 17630   13278-1 K


texts:
In the laundry room, I currently have 1 socket, with 1 underlying wire of 1.5 mm2 of section. This connects to a 16A circuit breaker. In the country I live in, voltage is 230V.
I need to install 3 machines in this laundry room:

washing machine : 2100 W
dryer : 2700 W
tank water heater : 2000 W

This is obviously way too much for this 1 wire. The ideal solution would be to get a new wire from the fusebox, but that is hard to do, and would require redecorating large portions of the house, which I just can't do at the moment.
So I thought of a solution. Could I replace the wire that currently goes from the fusebox to the socket, and replacing it by say a 4mm2 one?
I would put 3 sockets with this underlying 4mm2 wire, and plug the 3 machines on these sockets.
So 2 questions:

I read online that the tank water heater should be on its own wire, so that would not be the case in my scenario. Why do they suggest that, and is it somewhat reasonable to not follow this direction ?
Knowing that there are about 6m between the fusebox and the socket, how easy would it be for someone with no experience at all to to replace the existing cable by a new one, thicker?


texts: Why does my toilet make air noises when nothing is being used?

texts: There is no back up in sink or shower. Nothing using water is turned on. Flush handle is sometimes hard to press.   Why?


texts: I have outdoor lights powered by an in-wall timer. Can I add a dimmer to work with both lights and in-wall timer?

texts:
I installed these lights that come on with an in-wall timer switch. Here are the lights I bought:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-6-in-3000K-New-Construction-or-Remodel-Recessed-Integrated-LED-Kit-6G1BN-LED-30K-90CRI-M6/206767185
I am really loving these lights but they are too bright. They're only 10.3w each but seem much brighter. I'd love to be able to dim them but be able to keep my in-wall timer. The other thing is, the in-wall timer controls a light on the ceiling in the entryway outdoors. Is there a way to install a dimmer that leads only to my newly installed LED recessed lights? If not I can easily connect them to another junction box with a separate in-wall timer and dimmer.
I can't remember the brand name of the in-wall timer. But if that matters I'm willing to change it out to help me keep them working on a timer.
Here is what they look like at nighttime. I feel like I'm lighting up the whole block!


texts: It is reasonable to expect a contractor to replace the last foot of HVAC duct work, the connection between the insulated duct and the register?

texts:
The contract was to replace an antiquated HVAC and duct work. Since the registers are a standard size, would this connection also be a standard pre-fabricated part?
What is that last connection called?


texts: How do I repair a wall after mild water damage?

texts:
Some water got in my wall near a window when it was raining (the window shade had previously put a nick on the window sill corner exposing the drywall). The water got in behind some of the paint and created a bubble that I peeled off. I scraped away all the loose paint and drywall with a flathead, then sanded a little bit. I'm wondering if I need to spackle and/or prime before I try painting over the exposed area?

The paint is from Benjamin Moore.

Here are some photos to better explain the damage:


texts: How is the Air Conditioning wiring supposed to connect to my furnace?

texts: My dog has chewed through my wires on my unit that turn on my fan at the ac unit.  This is not the first time.  Its always been an easy fix until now.  He actuall pulled the wire from the unit and I dont know exactly what wires im supposed to connect.  The wires coming from the house are red and white.  But when I take the plate cover off the unit...  the only wires exposed are blue and yellow. Are the the correct wires?  And what connects to what.????