texts: Does placing electrical cables in a fence between two structures meet electrical code?

texts:
Can electrical cables be concealed in a fence between two structures? In this residence, the power meters and outdoor panels are located on the garage. There is a panel inside the residence like most places.

In the fence I see three bundles of wires:

Telephone and cable TV
Typical NM like is used inside the walls of a house
Larger cable like is used from a pole to a house normally, probably aluminum.

What seems out of place is that the wiring is concealed in a fence between the structures. I would expect it to be buried or overhead. As it stands, someone attempting to make repairs to the fence could easily drive a nail or screw directly into what appears to be electrical wiring.


texts: What size wire for two 100 amp sub panels?

texts:
I am running two 100 amp sub panels from a 200 amp service. My question is the wire size. I have seen the chart via The NEC provides wire sizing based on the type to be used and the application.

I am going 20 feet away from service. I have the calculator for voltage drop. What is the percentage I should use in allowable voltage drop?  1 or 3? I come up with 1 awg  which seems rather small.

I'd rather not overkill with 1/0 or 2/0 for the sake of lack of knowledge.


texts:
I’m thinking of building a new home 2500 sqft, and my budget doesn’t allow for luxury build however I want to invest on where its really worth and going to provide value to home.

Could you please advice regarding exterior siding.

does it provide more than look n feel, safety in case of house burndown?
does it really save on energy bills better?
does it really up the resale value significantly??
what is best alternative to brick ? N will that have a resale value ??
how much does brick cost approx for 2500 sqft?


texts:
I'm packing medium-sized gravel (1.5"-minus crushed rock) in to holes, to provide a stable base for pier blocks in clay-rich soil. There are 30 holes, roughly 24" diameter, 18" deep.

I have a 10" x 10" hand tamper, but my carpenter friend said that would only work well on smaller rock. He suggested using a 4" x 4".

I have been tamping & tamping, and now my joints hurt, and I have a lot more tamping to do. Maybe my technique could be improved? Maybe I don't need to tamp as thoroughly as I have been.

I tried googling for tamping info, and mostly I came up with tips for making espresso. And every site that mentions tamping gravel just says "step 5: tamp gravel" and gives no further details.


texts: Rust spots on water heater -- time to replace?

texts: So I noticed today there's some rust spots showing up on the outside/bottom on the water heater. No more than a couple specs. Should I be worried?


texts: Will batt insulation ignite if it is laying against my steam pipes?

texts: I have steam pipes behind a wall that I loosely packed R30 batt insulation against.  Is there a possibility that the insulation will ignite?


texts: I have a problem to sale electric lamp and LED bulb. So I want to know how many lumens equal to how many watts?


texts: How do I use self-drilling and tapping SS screws?

texts:
I've got an aluminum pole set consisting of multiple segments that need to be connected together to form one long pole using self-drilling and tapping SS screws.  I've never used this type of screw and I am unfamiliar with how I should proceed.  The directions that came with the product are very vague about what I should do, saying only:

"You will use a series of pre-drilled holes, spaced approximately 1-1/2" and 7-1/2" inches from each end, to join the large tubing to the small tubing. These holes are space 120 degrees apart. At the appropriate time you will secure with self-drilling and tapping SS screws."

The pre-drilled holes are very small, much smaller than the width of the screws, which appear to have a rather wide tip unlike a normal screw which has a sharp tip, so I'm not sure how I am supposed to get the screw to engage with the hole.  Furthermore, there is no slot to put the screwdriver or drill bit  into the screw, so I'm not sure how I'm even supposed to drive it.


texts: My Closet Smells Like Sewer - How To Fix?

texts:
My Closet smells bad.  It's coming from this PVC pipe at the bottom of it.

The cap on the end is easy to remove.  Inside, it looks like a pipe and I can see some clean water flowing through it (though it looks a bit odd in the picture)

My question is - how do I fix this?  Is it as simple as sealing off the opening with some caulk or similar?  Or does this indicate a failure somewhere else in the plumbing system and is merely a symptom of something I need to fix elsewhere?


texts: Installing vapor barrier for laminate over old wood subfloor in basement

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I am going to install laminate flooring in a basement in a century-old house. The basement currently has a wood plank floor. The planks look like some kind of soft wood, and are about six inches wide and random lengths.

My question is about the vapor barrier that I'll install below the laminate. Is it OK to install the barrier on top of the existing plank flooring, or do I need to rip up the planks? Obviously the former approach would be much less work, and it would give me a wood subfloor to work with, rather than the concrete that (I think) is under the planks.  (I say "I think" because this could possibly be a dirt floor; I haven't been able to look very closely...and I definitely don't want to get into the business of installing a concrete floor in the event that there is only dirt under the planks currently.)

For what it's worth, the old plank flooring is currently in good shape, and does not show signs of moisture damage. I hope that means the moisture penetration in the basement is minimal, and I can get away with installing a vapor barrier on top of the existing floor without causing the planks to start rotting.


texts: What's causing the smell in my basement?

texts:
I suspect my natural gas water heater is filling the basement with an off-putting odor similar to what it smells like when someone gets a perm. I guess you could say its like the sulfur/rotten egg smell, but, to me, it's closer to the smell of a perm. Note that the water itself smells and tastes fine.

I've educated myself a bit about water heaters, and found out that depleted sacrificial anodes can cause this odor, but everything I've read talks about the water itself, not the area around the water heater.

The water heater is an AO Smith model, installed in 2011.

What's the deal?

A few more details: It's definitely not the smell of natural gas. Also, our boiler sits next to the water heater. The boiler's pilot light is on and fine. Our thermostat is currently not turning the heat on, so it's just idling. To eliminate it completely as a variable, I turned off the gas to the boiler. That didn't help.


texts: 25 degree by 36 degree (oval) LED light beam spread

texts:
I have some Philips PAR20 2700K LEDs in my house. Some are 36 degree, others are 25 degree beams. I was wondering if there is any way to get an oval beam LED light bulb, as in a 36 by 25 degree light pool, or something equivalent to an oval shape (A° x B°). If not directly manufactured, is there some sort of lens I could put in front of a BR20 flood led lamp that can achieve this that is fairly thin?

The PAR20 lights are mounted with the Juno 440 Trim with the Juno 4-Inch IC New Construction Housing; yes this combo works, the socket can be unscrewed allowing for a gimbal to work without a whip.


texts: How can a GFI installed on an ungrounded two-wire line be verified?

texts:
From an online source:

  Your outlet tester may do double-duty as a GFCI outlet tester, simulating a ground-fault by the push of a button on it. There is a limitation here. Unlike a good GFI, which can test itself even without a good ground, the three-prong GFI outlet tester depends on a good ground to purposely trip the GFI; and this is also true when it is used to try tripping the GFI by pushing the tester's button at standard receptacles wired downstream from it.

If one doesn't trust the test button on the GFI, and one knows the outlet tester can give a false negative in this scenario, how does one verify the circuit protection?


texts: How can I repair fiberglass wallpaper with holes in it?

texts:
I just bought a house that has fiberglass wallpaper in a couple of rooms.

In one of the rooms the wallpaper was not properly applied and it's full of little holes. From what I read it means not enough glue was applied when putting the wallpaper up.

Does anyone know if there is a way to fix or minimize the problem without having to redo the work?


texts: How can I locate and repair a break in a circuit?

texts: After some effort, I have determined that there is a discontinuity between the wire from the breaker (hot wire) and the receptacle (socket).  The breaker is okay because couple of other sockets in the same circuit are working.  However, several sockets downstream from this socket are not working, i.e., are dead.  The wiring in question comes from attic, through the  wall (stud) and finally to the receptacle.  Before I fix anything, how do I make sure that my diagnosis is 100% correct.  If correct, how do I fix this wire or replace the wiring without breaking the sheet rock of the bedroom wall?


texts: How can I connect extention wires to this 3-pin 8mm LED strip?

texts:
I have two LED strips like the image below:

The strips are several feet apart. I plan on running some wires through my cabinetry to connect the two, but I'm looking for a clean way to make the connections. I don't mind soldering the wires, but the connectors are so tiny it's going to be pretty tedious and maybe not last very long.
I would love to find a connector that has wires already on it so I could just solder and shrink-wrap those wires to my extension wires. I'm not sure what that would be called to even look for though.
My primary question is what would be the cleanest way to connect these two sets of strips without having to solderer these tiny pins themselves? Do they make connectors that I can buy with extensions already built-in?

(if you know better tags, please suggest them!)


texts: How do I put in a 10 ft metal pole for a metal driveay gate?

texts:
I have 2 metal poles 10 ft poles and a metal entrance gate that is 10 ft wide and 4 feet tall.  I want to get it in the ground this weekend.  I am going to rent a gas post hole digger.  What kind of cement and how much do I need?  I read somewhere that it is a quicker idea to pour the mix in the hole and 2 gallons of water on top of that.
Can I get a step by step directions on how to put this in the ground?


texts: Will old anchor holes in a concrete slab reduce its useful life?

texts:
An impaired driver jumped my curb and ripped my square mail post out of the sidewalk concrete that it was anchored into. The bolts were all ripped out of the concrete. Bolts went through the metal plate into concrete, so when the post and anchor went, so did the bolts. I think a couple bolt grippers may still be in there.
I can get the same metal post anchor replacement so the holes will align and fit if I clean them out and work them a bit. All surrounding concrete damage is from the incident.
Is some repair going to hold long-term, like some concrete "caulk" and using the same holes? Or is it an eventual fatal wound, such as the holes will get bigger and start cracking around them?
Since water has gotten into them, will that cause any structural problems? Or will it eventually require the whole concrete sidewalk square (~3'x3') to be replaced, re-poured completely, to get it back to the condition it was in before?
Obviously cost is not a concern, but I need to know if a replacement is justified. Will a repair be good enough or a pad replacement is better/best?

Also want to clarify the sidewalk is slightly damaged. The surface streaks and has chips around it. If I drill new hole offset from old, will the old holes start to crack the concrete around them?
This isn't a legal forum but it is pertinent to know the driver had no insurance and he is in jail for the hit and run. He's being prosecuted by the city and I can get restitution from him. I won't have to sue in small claims. The point being, he'll be the one eventually reimbursing, but I have to justify a repour or if a repair is reasonable enough. My home insurance has a $500 deductible and will raise my rate so that's a no-go.


texts:
I would like to put this table on 2 wheels so I can wheel it around and move it outside to my patio.

I have these but not sure how to mount them on the legs.

Edit: Thanks for the suggestions, here's what I did:


texts: Can hydrochloric acid vapors corrode nearby metal items?

texts:
I have a room where I exposed a brick wall and redid the mortar by tuckpointing.  It look beautiful but the whitish residue from the mortar needs to be cleaned and the best way to do it is using hydrochloric (AKA muriatic) acid.  I have done that before and the results are beyond amazing.  It made my 100+ yr old brick look brand new clean but with the old retro shape.  One couldn't ask for more.

However, in this room, another thing that is partially exposed are spiral AC ducts, although on the other side of the room from the wall.  I was concerned whether the vapors from the acid may corrode the metal ducts and whether it makes sense to wrap it in some sort of plastic sheeting.

I do plan to use a gas mask and goggles with the window open and a fan blowing out hard when I'm doing this.  I know it's not recommended for indoor use but the results I got before were so awesome that I don't wanna settle for anything less.


texts: Replacing LVL beams by some lower depth ones

texts:
We are planing a roof opening to access our roof top deck.

We were advised to use 3 ply LVL 1 3/4 x 11 7/8 beams.

Can we replace this with something shorter and wider (like 4 ply LVL 7 1/4) in order to reduce the overall height ?


texts: How to design a radiator cover for good heat distribution?

texts:
I want to replace some battered, ugly radiator covers in my 1910 home.  I have read that to function effectively, a radiator cover needs openings at the front top and bottom, so that natural convection will pull cool air in from the floor, then at the top of the cover, hot air will flow outward toward the center of the room, rather than straight up as in the case of an uncovered radiator.

Here are my questions:

Is this true?
If so, how large should the openings be at the top and bottom of the radiator cover?
How much clearance should I allow above the top of the radiator?  (This clearance may be limited because I don't want to block windows.)
Should the inside top of the radiator cover have a square corner at the back, or is there some other configuration that will promote better airflow?
Are there any relevant reference works worth consulting?


texts: Can blue painter's tape turn glass blue if left on too long?

texts: A yokel told me that the blue painter's tape can be permanent.  He heard of someone leaving it on the window pane too long ( like a year ) and it turned the glass blue.   Is there any merit to this yokel?


texts: Replacing linoleum flooring in old house with tile, do I need to remove the papery layer?

texts:
I'm replacing the old linoleum in my kitchen with ceramic tile.  The linoleum all came up easily, except for the last layer which is a thin papery material that is glued to the wood subfloor.  I've seen some advice on how to remove it, but it's proving to be a real pain.  So given I'm just going to be putting in new floor anyway, will this thin layer be a problem or do I need to devote every weekend for the next three months to scraping this off piece by piece?  It's seriously that slow of a process (can't sand because of asbestos concerns).

In the image you can see some of the old linoleum under my fridge, a few of the intermediary layers, and then the black stuff in most of the picture is this papery material.


texts: Why don't heat pumps run for a bit BEFORE starting the air circulation fan?

texts:
I'd like to think I understand how heat pumps work decently well.  My home has one plus electric heat, which I try not to resort to because heat pump is more efficient, if slower.

When a traditional thermostat calls for the heat pump however, it turns on the big fan in the basement at the same time as the heat pump (or perhaps it's the heat pump calling for the fan right away when it's called on to pump heat).  This uses electricity and makes nose to just to move cold air while the heat pump builds pressure and starts to heat the coils in the basement.

Couldn't a delay be added, or a thermocouple added to the indoor coils, so that the fan indoors doesn't run until the indoor coils are nice and warm?

For that matter. I would think the outdoor fan could be delayed a bit too to save electricity and reduce noise at the beginning of a cycle while a temperature delta builds up.

I realize that if you ran the heat pump or AC for 'too long'/indefinitely without the indoor fan, it could damage the system.  But why don't heat pumps run for 'a bit' BEFORE starting the air circulation fan?

I could understand parts cost of a thermocouple (though that's what a marketing department is for), but just using an delay wouldn't cost any money, and would be pretty easy to add to the firmware, I would expect.


texts: My bathtub is pulling from tile on one side and the floor tile is damage on the same side of the tube. How do I go about repairing this?


texts: Can I install an additional breaker bus bar on my main breaker panel?

texts:
I'm adding several new circuits to my main electrical panel as part of a kitchen remodel.  The panel with accommodate the new circuit breakers, but it does not appear to have enough neutral and ground terminals.

Once complete, my panel will have 17 circuit breakers, but only has 23 total screw terminals for grounds and neutrals.  I believe this is because it is a older panel, from a time when each circuit was not required to be grounded.

Short of replacing the whole panel (which is not within my budget), what are my options for getting all the neutrals and grounds connected properly?

I've read that two or more neutral wires should never share the screw terminal, but grounds can if the panel is designed for it.  This isn't really an option for me though, since the 17 neutrals would leave only 6 screw terminals left to connect up all 17 grounds.  Even if I used wire nuts to combine multiple grounds together before going to the terminals, this still seems excessive.  At the very least it would be pretty messy.

Can I install an additional ground bus bar?  I've seen these at Home Depot from the same manufacturer of the breaker box (SquareD).  I'm thinking I could drill and tap some new holes in the side of the panel housing and then screw a 20 terminal bus bar on.  Then maybe run some 10 gauge wire between it and the main bus bar just for good measure (but it should be grounded fine just from being attached to the panel housing).  All the grounds would then go to this new bar, and all the neutrals to the main bar.  Electrically this seems like the best option, but would it pass inspection?

A picture of my breaker box is below.  Ignore the neutral and ground in the same terminal on the left.  I've since fixed that.  The empty breakers are where the new kitchen circuits will attach.


texts: How do I install a fan when the electrical box has 2 white and 2 black and 2 ground wires?

texts:
I am trying to install a ceiling fan with remote and the problem I am having is that there are 2 black, 2 white and 2 copper(ground) wires.

The first thing I did was to connect the red wire from the fan to the black wire from the box. Then connected the white wire from the fan to the white wire from the box. Next, I connected one of the ground wires to the screw in the box and connected the other ground with the ground wire from the fan and the fan bracket. Lastly, I connected the white wire from the the receiver (for the remote) to the white wire of the fan, the black wire from the receiver to the black wire of the fan, and the blue wire from the receiver to the blue wire of the fan. I put caps over the extra white and black wires.

After this I tried turning the fan on via the remote and the pull-chains, but it did not work. What am I doing wrong?


texts:
New home purchase and was surprised that the heat pump air handler does not have a filter inserted.  The filters are on the returns only, but are very well fitted.  There are two returns.
Is this an acceptable approach?  If it is actually designed this way would inserting an air filter create too much resistance for the air handler?
The coils seemed squeaky clean to my eye.
Minor subplot - the location of the condensate line makes it awkward to change the filter.  You have to unscrew the condensate line to install it.  Is there a better way to run this line assuming that we should actually have a filter inserted?
Thanks


texts: I live in a sun home trailer and the light really got on my nerves because when you flip the switch the light takes a minute to kick on and when it kicks on it is dim but it flips back and forth from dim to bright over and over for a while then it stays bright until you turn it off. So I decided to try and fix it myself. Nothing was wrong with the light itself, but I went into the light switch to see what's up and I thought "let me try to connect this weird copper wire (that's connected to nothing, it's just in there) to the screw holding the wire from the side of the switch". I flipped the switch on on and all I heard was a small buzzing sound, the light didn't turn on and the TV cuts off. I instantly cut the switch and disconnected the copper wire and now now nothing in my room works. No outlets or the switch works but everything else in the house works but this room. Help me out - I'm lost. I tried doing the fuse box it didn't work.


texts: Should I form and pour the concrete all at once?

texts:
I want to build a dog kennel/run that is 4' x 8'. I am planning on pouring a 4" concrete slab. However, part of my design is that I would like the slab to have raised edges all the way around it (except for an opening for drainage). Should I form and pour everything all at once or do it in steps? I'm not sure of the best way to accomplish this.

Here is a cross-section of what I'm trying to accomplish with the concrete slab.


texts: How to deal with broken compact fluorescent (and its mercury) without breaking the bank?

texts:
We're now out of the compact fluorescent era, fortunately, but we wound up with 3 or 4 broken CF bulbs from somebody not being careful with a box of them in the garage ...

We're moving and I want to handle this stuff responsibly but I don't have $3000 for official remediation. So should I:

Wrap the current recycling bin where the broken CFs are stored with packing tape and make sure it's sealed and not leaking, put a sign on it DANGER, MERCURY and move it to the new garage and just sequester it that way?
Put on gloves and a filter mask and sweep the bits into a plastic bag that's then put into 2 more layers of plastic and saved in a coffee can and sent to the landfill that way?
something else?

Any suggestions are welcome; I'm very happy to be into the LED ERA!


texts: How do we replace an old 3-wire thermostat with a 4-wire one?

texts:
How do we replace an old 3 wire thermostat with a 4 wire one?  We have an AC/heating unit, but the wiring for the thermostat does not have a yellow wire.

What can we do?


texts: How should a GFCI be installed according to the NEC?

texts: I am taking a National Electric Code safety class as part of an electrical maintenance certificate course. On one of my quizzes, it asks me to explain how a GFCI is to be installed and tested. I've carefully searched the NEC and have been unable to find anything about how GFCIs are to be installed. It explains where they are to be installed, but not how. This seems like a dumb question since GFCIs can be used in many applications such as circuit breakers and receptacles. Does anyone know what this is asking or if the NEC has any specifications on how GFCIs are to be installed?


texts: How can I paint over an existing paint design without making it permanent?

texts:
We have a baby on the way. We are currently designing the nursery. The room currently has a diamond-shaped pattern that we'd like to keep, since it is unique and cool looking, plus it came that way when we purchased the house. The problem is, we are doing a 'Winnie the Pooh' theme nursery. We wanted to do a green grass with blue sky landscape on that wall. However, as stated, we don't want to paint over it. We are afraid of using plain white wallpaper and painting on it, because a lot of times when removing wall paper, it will tear or damage the wall/paint it was glued to. I've found 'temporary' or 'removable' wallpaper, but its way too pricey for our budget. We considered white wall panels or even dry wall, but didn't seem like a good idea.

Is there anything TEMPORARY we can install over the existing wall/paint, that can be removed down the road without damaging or ruining the existing wall paint/design? Some type of material we can paint and that would be sturdy (as it will be the main focal wall behind the crib). Any ideas of materials we can use to cover the existing wall so we can paint over it, or some other temporary solution that wont ruin the original wall would be appreciated. I've scoured over the internet with no answers as of yet, besides the VERY expensive removable wallpaper.


texts: How do I choose a router for fitting doors?

texts:
I need to fit at least 12 doors, 6 of these are fire doors.   So I need to cut out for the hinges on all the doors and frame, as well as fit the Intumescent fire strip in 6 door or frames.

So what do I look for in choosing a router?   (I am in the UK if it makes any difference)

See also What to look for when picking a router?, however that question is aimed at hobby wood working, rather then DIY.


texts: Is there a type of extension cord I can use with a gutter heater?

texts:
I just purchased a gutter heater (yes I know it may not actually work), and the user's manual said not to use an extension cord. We don't have any outlets within the 6 foot range of the cord on the heating cable.

Is there not a specification of extension cord that could be used?


texts: Is it safe and legal to convert an immersion heater circuit for lights and outlets?

texts:
I have a kitchen cupboard that used to house an immersion heater....there is therefore a fairly heavy twin and earth terminating in what was once the switch for the immersion heater, on its own circuit with currently a 16A RCD at the consumer unit.

Along the line the switch has been replaced by a fused switch supplying a cupboard light and a spur off to a socket for the fridge.

Firstly, how legal or otherwise is that set up , secondly, if it's safe ( What ever happens I'm gong to replace the RCD at the CU with something of a much lower rating...6A?  ) can I wire another socket out of that switch unit assuming the RCD is downrated accordingly?


texts: How do I install plastic window insulation without damaging the trim?

texts:
I'm planning to install plastic window wrap on my windows for the winter, but the trim around the windows is nice wood and I don't want to leave a mark on it where the double-sided tape will be.

I've seen cases where a very obvious strip is left behind after removing the double-sided tape, and also where the finish on the trim is damaged when the tape is removed.

Are there ways to prevent damage to the trim, or is it something to worry about when removing the plastic in the spring (e.g. special cleanup procedures)?


texts: Wall Mounting a tv, how much can my wall take?

texts:
I am looking to mount a 20lbs tv on my wall in a new condo. I am under the impression that the wall has been framed with 2x3 studs. I am unclear as to how much this could support. However, in an impulsive move, I bought a 15lb single stud mount for my television. I am wondering with the combined weight of 35lbscould damage my wall, given that it is an interior wall and the stud size is smaller than I had assumed.

My tv is 32inches (20lbs)
My mount is the Kanto M200 Wall Mount
My stud censor suggests that my studs are 13.5" apart (which I find odd, but that's what mapping my wall shows.)
And the wall is 115" long

Don't know if any of that helps.

Any answers would be much appreciated


texts: How can I extend my pre-built cabinets to the ceiling?

texts: What is the easiest and least noticeable method for extending  my old IKEA upper cabinets to the ceiling? The old door-fronts are basically materials to be used up during the remodel. I have 3” crown moulding that I’d like to get used up as well. The existing cabinets are within 8” from the ceiling.


texts: What are my options for a fire rated door for a 32" x 36" rough opening?

texts:
The original floor plan of our split level home had the crawl space door in the garage. The previous owners converted half of the garage to a laundry room and put up wainscoting and a matching wood door in front of the crawl space. None of the improvements were done to code or with a permit.

The inspection states that we need to have a fire rated door to the crawl space. Can someone explain exactly what this means?

I found a fire rated utility access door at HD, but the biggest size is 22" by 30" and the actual door opening is closer to 32" by 36".

Should it be framed in?
Drywalled over?
How do I get it to match the current wainscoting?

Further, why do I need a fire rated door when it's inside the house and the walls were not fire rated?

This is it:


texts: Is There a DIY Way of Fitting This Attachment to My Bathroom Tap?

texts:
I want to attach this shower hose attachment to my bathroom tap. It's a two-way system that lets you use the water through the tap or the shower head. Unfortunately the sizes don't match. The hose has M22 and M24 attachments, and the tap thread has a 2cm diameter.

I've checked all the plumber and bathroom suppliers, and none have any adapters for this.
I also cannot replace the tap since I'm renting.
I have also looked into getting a different hose that would fit, and that does not exist either!

So the only option that's coming to my mind is to patch this to make it work somehow. Obviously permanent glue/epoxy is not an option either. So any suggestions or tips would be tremendously appreciated.

This is a similar problem I previously had in another apartment, but now the size and the whole tap is different. Please see the photos there if it helps resolving any ambiguities.


texts: Installing IKEA farmhouse sink in 23 inch deep cabinet?

texts:
We bought this IKEA farmhouse sink that I love.

Unfortunately I found out our kitchen cabinets are only 23 inches deep. The sink is made for standard 24 inch deep cabinets. Any suggestions for installation?


texts: Do i need a subpanel for a single circuit with less than 4 receptacles equaling less than 600 watt load. Washington state

texts:
I'm trying to get a few opinions as I have had 1 electrician tell me i need a subpanel but his whole reason was so i could expand in the future and he didn't really listen to what I wanted.  I have had another tell me no I can run a direct burial cable from my main breaker on a single 20 amp circuit to the livestock shed to power the light, 1 outlet for a water pump/heater and 1 outlet for a electric fence controller but I wouldn't be able to expand by much more.  Given I only need these specific items,  i'm looking at a total of 25 watt pump, 500 water heater, 1.6 joule output for electric fence, 60 watt lightbulb I believe I can do it all on a single 20 amp circuit as I'm sitting at less than 600 watts (assuming I converted the Joules correctly) which is nowhere close to 20 amps
90 feet is the distance from the current panel to the shed.


texts: Insulating between boiler room and bathroom

texts:
Part of my bathroom is directly above the boiler room. The boiler room is only accessible via an external door and is well ventilated with wall and door vents, so I consider it more like an outhouse than part of the house interior. When the boiler is turned on, the boiler room gets quite warm. But the rest of the time, it's not much warmer than the outdoor temperature. I suspect that this is contributing to the bathroom getting quite cold (in fact I can feel a cold draft coming from under the bath), so I would like to add some insulation in the bathroom floor/boiler room ceiling.

Here's a cross-section of the part of the house in question.

Points to note:

Most of the bathroom floor is tiled. Lifting the tiles to gain access to the floor space is not an option.
The floor under the bath (behind the side panel) is not tiled, and is only partly boarded, so pushing insulation between the joists under the tiles from there could be an option but still somewhat awkward.
The boiler room has a plywood ceiling, nailed onto the joists. I would rather not take it down if I don't have to..
Pipes from the boiler (not shown in the diagram) go up through holes in the ceiling, make a right angle turn and go off under the tiles. The holes the pipes go through are much bigger than they need to be, which is probably how the cold air is getting in. These gaps around the pipes will need to be filled.

It occurs to me that the easiest way to approach this is from the boiler room side.

Can I just attach some insulated plasterboard to the ceiling of the boiler room?

If so, do I need to add a vapour barrier, and where? I understand that when adding insulation to the inside of a room, the vapour barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation. Here, I am effectively adding insulation the exterior of a room, and I'm not sure whether a vapour barrier is needed.

Any other pitfalls I should be aware of?

This is in the UK, typical brick-build house construction, in case that makes any difference.


texts: Using self leveling cement in basement bathroom around drain

texts: Should you a use self leveling product over the slope towards a drain in the concrete floor in basement bathroom? We are wanting to install luxury vinyl plank in the bathroom and most sites say to have a perfectly level floor for it. The problem is, the concrete was purposefully made to have a slope towards the drain (built in 2015). Should we level it first or is that a mistake? I’d say the lowest spot is about 1” difference. The bathtub was installed with shims to compensate. I don’t want it to be obvious that the flooring isn’t level. Can someone please help me on what I should do for this?


texts: Why bother referencing neutral to ground in residential transformer?

texts:
I'm going to list the 3 scenarios for electrocution I can think up for both a residential transformer with grounded neutral and an isolated transformer. I find that the grounded neutral transformer has one more scenario in which I get electrocuted than the isolated transformer does and I want to know why despite this, we reference neutral to ground in residential systems. I have heard it is for safety reasons but my thinking suggests that it is actually more dangerous to reference neutral to ground. I'm hoping someone can clear this up for me.
Imagine I'm standing at my main breaker looking at my hot and neutral lugs. For all of the examples below please imagine I'm not standing on any insulated platform. I'm barefoot on some kind of wet concrete floor. I'm also explicitly talking about the service entrance wires to do away with any complications coming from different branch circuits inside the home. Please assume I'm just talking about the service entrance wires.
I'm also going to talk about the current as if it were DC current and electrons come from the hot lug towards neutral. This is just because it helps get my ideas across in English easier. But please understand that I do realize that current will be flowing in both directions on an AC circuit.
Regular Residential Transformer w/ Grounded Neutral

I touch the hot lug. There is a potential difference between the
wet concrete floor and the hot lug. There is also an unlimited
source of electrons (ground connection at neutral) connected to an
unlimited acceptor of electrons (wet concrete floor). Current flows
from the ground connection at the transformer, through my body, to
the wet concrete floor and I get electrocuted.
I touch the
neutral lug. There is no potential difference between the neutral
lug and the wet concrete floor since the neutral lug is grounded and
I do not get zapped.
I touch both the hot and neutral lugs at
the same time. Current flows through my body (in addition to flowing through my body to the wet concrete floor) and I get electrocuted.

Isolated transformer (Neutral not grounded)
Now imagine that my residential transformer was not referenced to ground at the neutral point. Imagine it is like an isolated transformer.

I touch the hot lug. There is a (very likely - but unknown) potential difference between the concrete floor and the hot lug. However, there is no unlimited source of electrons like a grounded neutral. There is a limited source of electrons which is the wires inside the transformer themselves. I may get a small shock similar to static electricity shock as my body and concrete floor get brought up to the same potential as the hot lug but ultimately there can be no flow of electrons because there is no sustainable source for them to come from. They will push into my body because of the potential difference but at some point the transformer conductors will be so electron deficient that the force on the electrons to stay will be greater than the force they feel to push into my body.

I touch the neutral lug. It is unlikely that there is a potential difference between the neutral lug and the wet concrete floor so I will very likely feel no static-electricity like shock. In addition for the same reasons as above, even if there is a potential difference between the neutral lug and ground there is no sustainable source for electrons to come from so again I do not get electrocuted.

I touch both the hot and neutral lugs at the same time. Current flows through my body and I get electrocuted.

Electrocution Breakdown

Regular Residential Transformer w/ Grounded Neutral: Cases (1) and
(3)
Isolated transformer (Neutral not grounded): Case (3) only.

So given this breakdown why do we ground neutral? Seems like it only introduces scenarios to get electrocuted. We could even have ground faults with an isolated transformer and not get electrocuted. Seems more dangerous to ground than to not.


texts: I'm concerned about the way my raised concrete patio is being constructed and thought I'd do a sanity check here.  14x16 raised screened in porch.  Footers, concrete block and brick foundation with the concrete patio floor to be poured on top of the concrete block.  The foundation sits about 30" above the top of the footers.  The contractor filled the cavity with loose dirt from the footer excavation then topped with 3" of gravel.  How concerned should I be that no compaction was done?  They haven't poured the floor yet but does the fact that it sits on top of the concrete block lessen the need to have a compacted fill as the floor when cured, would be suspended when settling of fill occurs.


texts: Drawbacks of Bonding Earth & neutral in Industrial sub panels

texts:
Bonding of Earth and neutral in machine subpanels will causes problem, but I want to know how it would affect PLC & VFD, etc.

The machine has 2 panels one for heaters (uneven load in each phase) another has VFD (250 kW) for the motor. since the last 4 months continuously facing a problem with drive most of the time control board failed without any error replaced with new VFD but no improvement. Also found some liquid from boards maybe electrolyte.

While checking found both panel earth & neutral & bonded together. I removed the bonding but want to make sure it was the root cause of all the time drive failure.


texts: Good technique to trim 2mm or 1/16inch off 2x4 (without a drop saw)

texts:
Simple noob question: cutting 2x4's to length, need to make a tight fit (no two the exact same length) so often need to trim 1mm to 4mm (say 1/16 to 1/8th inch) off the end.

Without a dropsaw or skillsaw, what's a good way to do this?  (lengths cut with handsaw) Never used a plane - is it a good tool for this job / do they cut across the grain?

Currently using a random orbital w/ 40 grit. Does the job but there has to be a better way.

Cheers.


texts: What is the difference between a coaxial grounding block, an antenna discharge unit, and lightning arrestor

texts:
I've been reading about grounding outdoor TV antennas but these terms seem to be used interchangeably by various articles on the internet.

For example, this article seems to make a distinction between (coaxial?) lightning arrestors and coaxial grounding blocks. It says:

"Mount the grounding block as close as possible to where the 75 ohm coaxial cable downlead enters the house"
"The antenna discharge unit (also called a “lightning arrestor”) is connected to the transmission line at a point close to where the transmission line enters the house"

So we should install both the grounding block and lightning arrestor near the place where the coax enters the house....

Ok, but what about this article: "To protect yourself from a direct strike, attach a lightening arrester (sic) to the antenna mast" (huh? I thought it goes near where the coax enters the house).

Lastly, this one says: "The coax cable itself can build up a static electric charge and in order to properly dissipate that charge an antenna discharge unit or grounding block can be used" (so now it seems an antenna discharge unit in fact isn't a lightening suppressor...)

This is all somewhat confusing to an antenna newbie like myself. Does anyone have a cogent explanation of these three items (and perhaps some indication of the ideal places they are installed)?


texts: Does anything need to be done before using a central Air Conditioner that was installed in winter?

texts:
I bought a new construction townhouse during this past winter.  I was told the central air conditioner had been installed but not tested due to the cold weather.  The AC unit is for the entire home with the compressor located outside.
When an AC has been installed but not actually tested is there anything special that needs to be done before using it?
Indeed I turned it on anyway a few weeks ago and it is working but I'm not sure if I should have had some kind of service or charging or whatever done first.
A few follow up questions on this topic:

The condenser is louder than the same model installed at the neighboring units.  Not a LOT louder but definitely louder IMO.  Is that a concern?
I'm not sure how to describe it but the sound from condenser seems to vary a bit.  Like it gets a little louder then a little softer.  The condensers at the neighboring units don't seem to have any variation in sound level.
Some rooms are cooler than others.  To address this I have closed vents in some rooms.  Is there any concern to close too many vents?  Does it make the unit work harder if there is more air flow resistance due to several vents being closed?


texts: Attaching porch roof or pergola to old brick home

texts:
I just took apart a very badly made porch attached to an old brick house (built circa 1890). I do not want to go into the details but the old porch was so badly built (cement blocks as footings, ledger bolts loose, mishmash material w zero detail...bad bad.  etc.) that it pulled apart some of the old brick which I then had to re-point!
I now have a solid wall and I would like good advice on a sure way to attach to this old house. The brick wall is soft brick built with lime-putty then 1-inch space, black tar-paper then 12-inch boards nailed on top of 2x6 frame.
My plan is:

To rest the roof of the structure onto a beam supported by two 6x6 posts on the house side
First doing proper footings below frost line (around here is 3.5feet) then build a deck.
Then build a porch roof with 6x6 four-post structure with lean to metal roof or just a pergola for more light.

Trying to cover lateral forces blowing from the west/east so what is the best & strongest way to attach the 6x6 posts against the brick house this old?
Is there a better way?


texts: I need to level a cement floor but it has been painted with oil base floor paint. Do I need to remove this paint? If so, what would be the fastest way to do this?


texts: Can I use old bits for a hand-powered drill in a power drill?

texts:
I have some drill bits that as far as I know have only been used in a hand-powered drill. They are at least 15 years old, maximum 40 years.

Can I use them in an electric/power drill? If the answer is "it depends", is there some way to tell? And if I get it wrong and something bad happens, will that bad thing be disastrous, or merely cause damage to the bit? (i.e. if the answer is that the bit might shatter and blow up the drill and I'm shrapneled with little pieces of metal, I won't try it...)

If this seems like an stupid question - my idea is that the metal might not be hard enough or something to stand up to the greater strain/pressure/speed/??, but I don't know if that is a thing.

The photo is of the ones I have at my house at the moment - there are more at my Mum's (they were Dad's) but they are the same general type.


texts: Is this gravel stabilizing underlament an effective product?

texts:
Does anyone have any experience with a gravel stabilizing product? I'll say, somehow I've never seen this before, but it looks genius; especially if you could create a reasonable driveway out of this stuff that wouldn't buckle under a car's load. What are your opinions on it? Is it worth buying to use for regular pathways as well or is it best just dealing with slight shifting? If I were to use something like this, I'd probably create a secondary parking area and/or a new walkway to our back porch. (with stone edging, it could look nice for just about any project).

Does it work? Does the gravel shift much or show the grid? What are the ups or downs of a system like this?


texts: Why does it take several attempts for my garage door to go all the way down?

texts: It comes back up at different points. Sometimes it won't even start going down. Both my yellow and green lights are on, but it keeps coming back up.


texts:
I am not a builder. I am looking at properties with garage/shop + apartment.

The two designs pictured are equivalent. From what I have seen most properties take the build out (left) approach.

To me it seems more efficient to build the apartment up. Less slab and less roof. Took 2' off the apt on the out (left) design for not requiring stairs.  But also lose storage under the stairs.

Up (right) I understand there is cost to support the apartment.

From a cost perspective which is a better design?

Not sure it matters but cool climate - no A/C.

I am asking because I may purchase land and build.

The model is a 1-5 acre lot with the expectation the buyer would build a main home. I don't need much living space and I want a structure with lowest cost.

Going with $6 sq ft for slab and $7 sf roof is about $8000. Basically the apt gets a free roof and slab with with 2 story. Unless is cost more than $8000 to hang an apartment that should be cheaper.


texts: We have plaster textured walls through out our entire house that are in good condition, but are just ugly.  Is it ok to skim coat or is drywall a better solution.  We are first timers doing our own home improvement so any advice is appreciated.


texts: How to do corners of shed siding using fence pickets

texts:
I am planning to use existing fence pickets to build a shed and use them for siding. But I can't figure out (or come to conclusion) on how to deal with the 4 corners. I highlighted red in below

That one looks like it's just a 2x4. So how can the fence pickets not end up to be ON TOP / OUTSIDE of the 2x4 framing?

I looked at this video online and they installed a corner board: https://youtu.be/Z00berTW5hc?t=43m8s

So I assume it's something like this "Outside Corner Moulding", right?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-6577-11-16-in-x-11-16in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Outside-Corner-Moulding-0657708011/100074043

I am trying to save money and not buy additional corner board if possible. So how do I do this with existing 2x4 framing or fence pickets? That'd be great.


texts: How can I keep the top of my dog ear fence level when the ground slopes?

texts:
I've been working on a privacy fence for our yard. I purchased individual 1x6 dog ear PT fence pickets and cut them accordingly to fit the contour of the yard.

However, at one point the yard slops about 4" over a 5' run making the 6' pickets too short. I don't want to slope the fence (i.e. I want the top of the fence to be level). Regrading isn't an option, so I can a) join smaller pieces with the 6' pickets I have or b) find longer pickets. I much prefer option b, but finding 8' PT pickets is proving to be pretty difficult.

What are my options for getting the 8' pickets in the same cut dimensions as the other pickets? I'm willing to cut the dog ears on the pickets, but finding pre-cut would be much easier of course.


texts: Can anyone tell me what kind of hinge this is?

texts:
I saw it on a folding table I'm planning on copying.. It looks pretty thick- see the couple pictures below;

Cheers guys and gals!


texts:
Can anyone please help me identify what the fixing below is and how to remove it?

Four of them attached a wooden gate post to the side of a masonry wall. The wooden post is gone - it was rotten so came off with a crow bar. Now I'm left with these and they're very firmly embedded in the wall. Some have half broken off due to rust. There doesn't seem to be any screw or nail in the middle but maybe there is one and it's deeply embedded inside.


texts: How can I grind a portion of the threads off a hex bolt?

texts: I need to grind down the threads on a 4" hex head bolt while preserving 1 inch of threads closest to the head.  I need to do 5 bolts this way.  I'm thinking bolt in vise and then using a belt sander. Have any other suggestions?  I am using the modified bolts to create a roller bar on a trailer.  The nut will be welded to a bracket, the bolt will be inserted then threaded down to lock in place.  The roller bar is water pipe with a roller bearing insert, that's where the smooth part of the bolt comes into action.


texts:
I'm encountering a situation where I'm installing a Electric Water Heater in basement and there's a existing unused out for 240 (30 Amp) available right in room above.

Unit specifications are to use 12/2 guage with 20 Amp, independent circuit.

Running a new line is bit of work until is must.  Connecting 12 guage to 10 guage with 30 amp is not safe either. Any suggestions would be awesome.


texts:
I just bought a house that was abandoned for about a year and I can't get water into the house. The house is on city water. When we bought it, the water was turned off at the street and the shutoff valve under the house was open. When we open the city's 1/4-turn valve, no water gets to the house.
Water goes to the city's valve, then into a meter, then into 1" black plastic pipe that runs for about 200' into the crawl space of the house. To clear all obstructions, I cut off the shutoff valve (it was very old & rusty and in need of replacement anyway) so now that 1" pipe is open under the house. A city water guy removed the meter and verified water comes through the valve (lots of it). He exchanged the meter and we still have no water. I called the previous owner (who inherited the property after a death) who said there is no other shutoff valve apart from the one under the house. He said he just turned the water off at the street.
When the city's valve is left open for hours, the meter doesn't register any water going through and no wet spots appear on the ground - it doesn't seem like the pipe is broken.
The only thing I can figure is that the water line is clogged, but I can't figure how that could have happened. How common/likely is it to have a clogged water line to a house (not just within a house)? I can call a plumber, but would like to exhaust all opportunities to fix this myself first. Any suggestions?


texts: Under my sink is 1 non gfi receptacle that controls dishwasher and garbage disposal. I want to put 1 gfi receptacle to replace current one. There are only 3 wires - one black one white and one red. This is a stand alone outlet and will not power any other outlets. How would these 3 wires connect to the outlet?


texts: Odd sized CPVC - fittings will not go on

texts:
Water system installed circa 2010/2011, with CPVC. We have since had some issues to be addressed.
New CPVC fittings WILL NOT WORK.  The outside diameter of the old CPVC is larger than the fittings, no matter if CPVC, sharkbite or other types of fittings.  I took a piece of the old CPVC to both Home Depot and to a large plumbing supply place.  Home Depot scanned the bar code and came up with "CPVC" with a couple of additional letters on the end, and made an "informed guess" that it was an older type of CPVC that is no longer in use.  Markings include "3/4" SCPI", but that is all I can access from the part I have.
Am I going to have to replace all of the hot water lines in order to connect things back up?


texts: Time to Replace Masonite Royalcote Wall Paneling?

texts:
My house was built in 1959.  The basement has a pseudo-finished area with walls made of wood paneling.  I've started removing some of it to address issues behind the wall and to provide easier electrical access for electricians who will be adding some circuits.  I was planning on hanging up the same paneling after all the work is done, but I'm starting to wonder if the paneling is quite old and possibly contains materials now known to be hazardous.

The backsides of the panels have a logo stenciled on them in paint which calls the product "Masonite Royalcote."  Does anyone know how long this product was manufactured?  The only references I find online suggest it was a popular wall paneling in the 1960s.  If it's that old, and especially if it had any kind of hazardous material in it, I should probably go ahead and pay for some new paneling.


texts: What critter (insect?) removes sand from between paving bricks?

texts:
Something is excavating sand/mortar from between paving bricks, as seen here.  I thought it was ants, but I've placed ant traps and bait and there seems to be no effect. Also, when the mounds are disturbed, no insects are visible.

Here's a close-up view of the large pile at the left.

That's a significant amount of sand/mortar being removed.

If it's not ants, what insect is causing this?


texts: What is the difference between lab Accreditation and Certification when selecting a drinking water test?

texts:
I need to test my drinking water and while researching labs in Virginia to send my water to, they designate some as Accredited and others as Certified.
I am confused by the jargon to what is the difference between the two?
They both seem to need to adhere to the same EPA standards.


texts: Easiest & NEC 2011 compliant way run wire into attic?

texts: I have this surface mount wiring connected to an outlet through the bricks (bottom-middle in photo). I would like to branch from this to add a switch (through bricks) and go straight up into the ceiling & attic in order to install a ceiling light on the other side of the brick wall. My city uses the 2011 NEC. How should I run the wire into the switch and up into the attic to be compliant?


texts: Gas hot water tank quit working and leaked

texts:
I came home from work today to find that the hot water wasn't working. I opened the area to my gas hot water tank and there's a large pool of water on the ground. I checked the pilot light and it appears to have gone out.

I removed the pipe attached to the temperature and pressure release valve and tested the temperature and pressure release valve. Some copper colored water came out but soon ran clear. The water coming from the tank is not hot and I do not smell gas. There is what appears to be buildup around the temperature and pressure release valve. The tank is currently not leaking. Could this have quickly leaked water and caused the pilot light to also go out somehow?

Any ideas to what could have happened and how to go about fixing it? Thanks


texts: Ceiling fan & lights turn on automatically

texts:
I couldn't find someone with the same problem so here goes:

I've replaced a ceiling fan (the old one had some parts missing), but as soon as I put the power back, the light and fan turn themselves on even when the light switch on the wall is off. Playing with the light switch (on and off and on and off) does nothing either. They respond when I pull their chains, though.

The new fan is a canarm Neptune 42" with no remote (product page: http://www.canarm.com/Residential/Ceiling_Fans/CeilingFans/42/CF42NEP4BN)

I have two wires coming out of the ceiling outlet: a black and a white
I have four wires from the fan: green, white, black and blue

I shut off the power (breaker off) and then, as per instructions in the manual, I left the green (ground) by itself, connected the two white wires, connected the two black wires together then added the blue to the connection. As soon as I restored the power (aka put the breaker on), the light and fan were on and not responding to their switch on the wall.

I started googling and found a video where I was told to first connect the fan's black and blue wires together and then to connect them to the ceiling's black wire. Sadly, the problem remains as before.

I would gladly accept suggestions, thank you in advance for your help!


texts:
I'm looking to replace a shared fence with a neighbor and his ground level is around 6-8" higher than ours. A section of the current fence has a retaining wall (or I guess also called a kick board) at the bottom that varies in height of 6-10".

I'd like to replace the original fence posts with Postmaster steel posts but my question is whether I can attach a 2x8 or 2x10 pressure treated (for ground contact) board at the bottom? Should the posts be moved closer together (6 ft. instead of 8 ft.? Ours vary now from 5 to 7 ft).

I'm trying to find whether a span of 6 ft. if the steel posts with 2x8 will support the load of the neighbor's ground, or if I'll need additonal 4x4 support posts.

Also, with a retaining wall like this that is shorter than 1 ft., would I need to do anything with drainage? Also, same question if I went with a stacked block wall. Thanks!


texts: should I split the water tanks for harvested rain water and ground water

texts:
Water become challenging source in my native (Tamilnadu, India). While I build new home, it makes me think about saving the rainwater.

Ground water(borewell) is the only water source for us. This also having chance to dry on summer. So I like to use the rain water in efficient way.

Is it good to mix the ground and rain water? or should have two separate water storing tanks(underground). Which one is cost effective?

I was thinking to use the two tanks for two different purpose.

Rain water (After basic filtering)

Toilet
Washing
Terrace Garden
Kitchen Sink

Ground water

Drinking (Purified)
Both
Cooking

Needless to say, I also plan to save the good water from kitchen sink(double sink method) and purifier waste water in barrel for ground garden plants.

So please advice me?


texts: Gas / baseboard heating should be on but it's not -- how to investigate?

texts:
This is my first Winter in this house and I've just realized that I can't make the heat turn on. The home has natural gas heating and baseboard vents. There's no A/C or other units; just baseboard heating.

I'll pay a pro to come out if I have to, but I just want to make sure that I check everything obvious first, since this probably would've come up in the home inspection if there were really something wrong with the heater.

Here's a list of what's been checked:

Thermostat -- seems to work fine and is a very simple electronic model. Heat is set to ON with a (desired) temperature of 71, but actual temperature shows as 55. I tried turning it on and off, up and down, etc.
Water -- hot water works fine.
Emergency shutoff switch -- heat is set to ON. Tried turning it off and on.
Other valves / pipes -- I can't figure out which pipes are supposed to connect to the baseboard units, but I made sure that everything I could find was switched on.

I have to admit that I am very ignorant in this area. The same furnace that heats the water is the same one that should be heating the air, right? If so, it seems to be on and working.

This photo has the furnace, water heater, and gas in it:

You can see the baseboards in the bottom right of this photo:


texts: Using existing gas connection for new gas range?

texts:
I would like to connect a regular GE gas stove like this to a connector that was used by a Vulcan residential gas range (similar to the one here)

Here is some information on the existing connector:

This is the pipe that supplies the gas to the Vulcan range.

This pipe has a nut attached to it. I unscrewed it and took pictures of it:

What would I need to do to use this existing gas connection with this regular GE gas stove?

Is it something that I can do?


texts: Attaching punch bag bracket to pebble dash exterior wall

texts:
the outside of my house is pebble dashed like the image below

I want to attach a punch bag bracket to the wall, like the image below

Mt main concerns are cracking

Cracking the pebble dash render - when drilling for the bracket
Letting water get in behind the render once its drilled, thus damaging it
The force of hitting the punch bag may crack the render

Any ideas on how i could get around these issues ?


texts: I was tasked with removing a broken doorbell from the outside of the building. I'm not sure what to do with the wires? If I pull on them they come out further but not a whole lot. I want to at least make it look good.


texts: How can I repair a surface chip in a bathtub?

texts:
I accidentally damaged my tub, the color is still there but the finish or outer layer shell is missing.
Any ideas how I can repair this without making it look worse?


texts:
I have 2 Heil 19 SEAR units that are sweating tons of water in the pan. They are V speed units that can regulate the humidity in the house to 50 t0 55. The house is a foam house which has been sealed and resealed after a smoke test.
Humidity in the attic is 72 with a temp of 76. I am told that this is too close to the dew point and need to plug the holes. We plugged a 4" bath vent to the outside that had been disconnected and small leaks around a dormer. The house is on the Gulf coast.  I still have sweating units and some ducts that are moist.
There are returns holes in the plenum and a 4" discharge in the attic. The holes and discharge were attempts to solve the humidity issues.They helped some but did not correct the problem.  Any suggestions?


texts: What type of underlayment is appropriate for metal roofing?

texts: I'm building a shed with a metal roof. What underlayment material should go between my OSB roof deck and the steel panels?


texts: Window air conditioner exhaust temperature

texts: I'm planning to put a window air conditioner in an apartment awning window. The window part that swings open cannot be removed so,the exhaust from the air conditioner would be blowing against the window. Would the exhaust be very hot and,if so could it cause damage to the window parts? Any suggestions?


texts: TV mounting bracket does not fit the stud locations - how can I overcome that?

texts:
I would like to mount my 32" LCD TV to a wall using a swivelling bracket that I bought. The wall it needs to go to is plasterboard so I need to mount it on the studs. However, I've got a problem - the studs are too far apart for the brackets mounting layout.
How can I overcome that?

I am thinking that maybe I can piece together a wooden frame to go between the studs and the TV bracket so that the frame is attached to the studs and the bracket is mounted onto the frame. Could that work? Obviously, I'll have to consider the combined weight on the contraption including the TV itself.

Or better just put it on a stand?


texts: Upgrading from a two wire analog tstat to a Nest, need help

texts:
I am looking to upgrade from an old analog tstat to a Nest. My old stat had only two wires connected (R and W) but the wire bundle had three. So I tried connecting the green wire to C and then turned the power on. Nothing happened, so I switched the green and white just to make sure it was the wire that was the issue. Still nothing. I will admit that I’m a novice, but I really thought this would work. What am I missing?

Heater is a Goodwin.


texts: Is it possible to demagnetize side cutters with this passive magnetize/demagnetizer?

texts:
I keep little neodymium magnets on my precision screwdrivers and I inadvertently touched them to my side cutters which are now weakly magnetized.

I only have a passive magnetize/demagnetize block which I use on screwdrivers but I can't seem to make it work on the side cutters, maybe because of its shape.

Is it possibly to demagnetize my side cutters this way or do I need to buy a degausser?

I'm using these to trim the leads off of electronic components. Because tiny pieces can get stuck to the jaws, subsequent trimmings cut at an odd angle can cause a rogue piece to jettison in a random direction. After every trim I have to swipe my fingers along the edges to brush them away but I'm not always successful and it can also leave a shallow slice if I'm not careful.


texts: Reinforcing a high load wooden corner shelf

texts:
I would like to build a shelf capable of holding a maximum load of cca. 60Kg. The image show the placement of the shelf.

Below is a conceptual drawing with the dimensions.

The image shows the brackets serving as the main support for the shelf. They are capable of carrying far more than 60Kg but have a limited width.

This makes the "critical surface", the weakest link of the construction and the part most prone to breaking.

How would you approach this problem?


texts: Wifi light switch needs neutral wire. Why? AND Can that wire be a skinny one?

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What does the neutral wire do on a light switch that responds to wifi?

My suspicion is that when the switch is in the off position, the electronics in the switch need to still be powered, so the neutral wire allows a tiny constant current through the switch so it can respond to a wifi instruction to actuate the switch.

If this is so, could the extra neutral wire going to the switch be a very light gauge wire?


texts:
I have an old and damage sidewalk with a heater wire inside it.

The wire is cut somewhere but I don't know how to find where. Is there any electrical tool or way to find where is it cut?

This is an example of a wire in a sidewalk:


texts: What is this and can it be used to stop the flow of water?

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I have a leaky spigot that I am trying to fix.

I followed the water line back and found this.

Does anyone know what it is? Can it be used to stop the flow of water?


texts: How can I powder coat a metal door in place?

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I am interested in powder coating a bulkhead door. The problem is that normally with powder coat you need a temperature controlled oven that holds the item at a certain temperature for 10 minutes. In this case the door is attached to the building.

Is it possible to use a heat gun to cure it?


texts: What type of wire nuts are recommended for #6 and #8 wires for oven installation?

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For an experienced diy-er trying to install a 40A oven/microwave combo (8/3 cable) and a 50A rated range (6/3 cable), what type of specific wire nuts can I use that I can easily pick up at Lowe’s? Hopefully one that is good for both, 2x#6 and 2x#8 wire. Any twisting tips on those, or a link to a video is also appreciated.
This seem to be the fit, but wanted to double check as far as nuts as well as install tips: Wing Twist Wire Connectors
Edit: does this look good?


texts: My in-laws have a Mailbox that's a normal looking metal mailbox that's in a brick enclosure.  It appears that when it was built, someone just put down mortar, set the mailbox in it, covered the mailbox in mortar and then bricked around it.  Fifteen years on the box is rusting and the door has broken off.  Any hope of replacing this mailbox somehow or do we just need to tear down the whole brick column and put in something new for a new mailbox?


texts: What could I use to detect a leaking riser pipe in my apartment?

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I live in an older 5-story apartment building. The riser pipes which supply hot and cold water as well as the sewage pipe have seen better days. It seems that one of them had sprung a leak, possibly in my apartment. The maintenance guys came and changed a piece, but there's still plenty of old pipe there, just waiting for a chance to rain upon an unsuspecting neighbor.

I'd like to have some sort of alarm in place that would notify me that there's something wet in there. I have easy access to the pipes, so I could just check them every now and then, but... that'll get boring soon and I'll just stop doing it. And if I check them rarely (like once a month) then I'll probably miss the essential moment when things can still be salvaged without needing major repairs in the apartment downstairs.

I'd prefer something low-tech, non-electronic. I pass the place every day, so if I could tell at a quick glance that everything is OK, that would be great. Any ideas?

Here's a picture:


texts: Conduit Fill and Derating for THHN Cables (outdoor run)

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Project: Run a 15Amp and a 20Amp circuit to bathroom from breaker panel outside the house.

After much reading, I have determined that NEC requires adherence to the following.  Any suggestions for improvement are most welcome.

Exterior run from panel to the spot where it enters the attic will be done in a conduit (Cantex PVC SCH 40).
Because outdoors is considered damp/wet area, only THHN/THWN-2 wire should be used at least until the wire enters the attic.
For a 3/4" ID conduit, the max fill area for 2 or more wires (or circular-equivalent cables) is 40% of the available or 0.213 sq inch.
I will have a total of 6 wires, 3 per circuit, half of which will be 14 Gauge and the remaining 12 gauge. Alternatively I could also run all wires at 12 gauge.
If I went with 12AWG (3) and 14AWG (3), the total occupied area will be 0.0097*3=0.0291 sq inch for 14 AWG, and 0.0133*3=0.0399 sq inch for 12 AWG for a grand total of 0.07 sq in or 11.40% fill, which is well within the limits allowed under NEC 2017. I did this calculation assuming 3 conductors per circuit, but presumably the grounding wire is not considered a conductor, so the actual numbers are lower by 1/3.
As for derating the conductors, it is my understanding based on this post that for 15/20 Amp circuits running less than 9 wires, the derating really is not a concern.  Someone correct me if I am wrong.

So in nutshell, I should be good to run either six 12 gauge wires or three each of 12 and 14 gauge wires through a single conduit from panel to attic entry point.  Here are my specific questions:

Since I will be converting the THHN/THWN-2 wire to Romex 12/2 or 14/2 cable, is it okay to join the green sheathed grounding wire of the former type with the bare copper one from the romex?
If I use 12 gauge THHN wire on both circuits, am I limited to using only 12 gauge romex cable inside the house? This is what I am assuming, but just want to make sure.
Is there a benefit to using stranded vs solid THHN?


texts: How should I shim the feet of a modular tub?

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I did the tile in another bath - house built around 1990. Sub floor is in great shape and level(?).

Sterling (Kohler) 'Ensemble' unit. It appears there are 8 'feet' that are a part of the 'grid' affixed to the bottom of the unit. Their instructions say to lay the felt pad (IF included) under the unit so that 'feet' rest on it... continue with install. Then use shims to level the tub. When you put the tub into the stud pocket and fix it to the studs, unless you are two inches tall and can climb beneath it, how do I put in shims and know where they are needed?

Or the next section section of instructions they say to use a mortar base to level it. Lay 1 to 2" mortar under the tub and squish it down to level it etc.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and assumed the 'feet' are in plane with the bottom edge such that - assuming a flat level surface - there would be no need to shim.

I just got off the phone with Kohler. And I posed the same question about the 'felt pad', and shimming after the fact. They were unable to answer my question Just get a felt pad from one of the box stores...

Anyone have experience with this type of product - molded support grid with 8 tubular feet on the bottom? Will the "felt pad" be sufficient?

Instructions (PDF)


texts: Is there a thermostat-controlled corn heater sized for a shop/garage?

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I'm looking for a way to heat my 4-car garage. Two bays are for cars, one is for the mower and other items, one is my workshop.

I live in Minnesota, with very cold winters, so a heater is necessary to keep the shop usable in the winter and to keep the cars warm. I would like to have a heater/furnace that is on a thermostat, so that I can keep the garage ~ 35-40 degrees (F), but then crank it up to 50 or 60 when I want to work out there.

I've been doing some research, and it looks like a good option (efficiency and cost-wise) would be a corn heater, however, it looks like most of these are stoves intended to go in houses.  The "shop" heaters I have seen online are huge commercial units designed to heat 3000+ square feet, whereas my garage is only ~1100 square feet.  Any thoughts on where to start looking for a good shop-type corn heater that is thermostat controlled?  Any ideas for other heating options that wouldn't involve running a new gas line out to the garage?


texts: What is the proper/recommended way to tile a window sill in a shower?

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I'm in the process of re-tiling my bathroom shower wall and I'm stumped on how to properly tile the window sill near our shower.  Here's a picture:

It's roughly 3 inches deep and 18 inches wide.  We want to install subway tile for the walls and the tile we've selected is roughly 2.5 inches tall (which is obviously too small for the sill).

What is the preferred way to handle this?  Should we use an entirely different shape of tile for the sill?


texts: how to tighten the nuts inside the U shape under the countertop in the kitchen

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Hi,
The faucet in the kitchen is loose due to leaking. The wood under the countertop was damaged due to leaking water. This makes it very soft and difficult to tighten the nuts. From the picture, there is very little space for me to put the basin wrench into the "horseshoe" to tighten the nuts as you can see in the picture. In the picture, the yellow plastic line is the water coming to the faucet, the other two pipes are cold and hot water pipe.
How should I do it? thanks!
Yiqun


texts: Trying to wire up my new cooktop to my junction box

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My cooktop has yellow and green wire, black wire, brown wire - I think it’s sort of a brownish-red, and then I have a blue wire and a grey wire which are wired together.

My junction box has three wires: yellow and green wire, red wire, and the black wire.

Can you tell me the best way to wire it up? Thanks.


texts:
I live in Argentina where everyone use tape and nobody know Wago connectors.

Should I use tape or Wago for my house? Wago can be purchased on Ebay, not in local shops.


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I have low power cable lighting fitted in my kitchen, 2 cables running in parallel with suspended spots.  It has run fine for 8 years then the other day it blew when switching on.  I looked at the transformer and there was a blown fuse so I replaced that and it worked.

It worked for about 8 hours then, again when switching on it blew again.
I replaced the fuse again, this is a small fuse on the transformer itself. Swapped the bulbs over to LED (from halogen), cleaned the cables to make sure nothing was arcing across from one to another.  Then the same happened again it worked for some hours then blew when turning on at the switch.

What I need to know what is likely to be triggering this? I don't understand why it works for a number of hours and then goes. I would expect if it is overloaded or something it would go immediately.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


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I’ve replaced the carpet in one of our room with hardwood, about a year ago, which buckled up by the end of the summer this year.
There is a crowlspace under the house, where I found no leaks, but mold.
I’ve put felt paper under and nailed the boards down.
I didn’t replace the particle board with plywood. Could that be the cause of the moisture and bucking?
The particle board under the moisture barrier is molded bad.

What I should’ve bean doing otherwise, or the problem is not due to installation?

Thank you for your advice!


texts: Unsure where to find "C" connection on furnace

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Another "don't have a C wire for thermostat" question. Been following along, and if I could identify the C connection at the furnace, I'd be all set. Unfortunately, it's not simply marked C or common. I have attached an image of the wiring diagram of my Utica MGB-2490 boiler. Am I correct in thinking that the blue wire terminating at the " PV  3" is what I'm looking for?
thermostat only had 2 wires connected to R and W (extremely old Robert Shaw mercury type), there is a 3rd wire tucked in wall, I followed bundle to basement, it is not connected to anything, could use for C if I am sure what to connect it to. Any and all responses are appreciated


texts: Can my home's power supply handle this tankless water heater?

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So my home was built in 1960 and 15-20 years later another room was added on. There are panel boxes everywhere ha. I have mapped it all out and isolated almost everything. Anything that is unidentified must not be important or no longer existing because nothing seems to lose power when I flip these breakers off.

The big question…

I have in my possession this electric tankless water heater:

https://www.ecosmartus.com/product/ecosmart-ECO-27-27-kW-Electric-Tankless-Water-Heater

It states that it has an amperage draw of 113amps and at the panel box It will need to have (3) independent 40 amp 2-pole breakers.

You will see in my layout that on Panel A left side I have a 70amp, 30amp, and 40amp breaker that are now obsolete. Can I use those 3 spots to accommodate the new heater?

From my understanding the amperage specifications for an appliance are normally 20% higher than what it actually draws and that most appliances may draw that amount at the initial start up but after that draw much less to maintain operation. I am having difficulty getting a straight answer out of technical support though.

Will I be pushing my limits?

Thanks for your help!
Corbin


texts: How to convert Light Switch from 2 red, 2 black, and ground to 1 traveler, 1 neutral, and a ground?

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I am swapping the light switches in my house and have come across some issues with some of the 3-way switches. The switches have a ground, two red cables, and two black cables and the new switch I'm putting in has ground, one traveler cable, and a neutral that I need to twist into the box myself.
Here is an image of the back of the old switch:

In order to make this compatible, I believe I would need to twist together the two black cables (as I have been doing for the other add-on boxes) but that still leaves me with two red traveler cables for one hole on the back of the dimmer as pictured below.
I have been using their normal steps listed in their documentation (https://byjasco.com/media/manuals/46199-QSG-v1.pdf) but want to make sure I get it correct.

Is the best method to combine the traveler wires in a cap and lead a third one out?
Is it safe to connect both red travelers in the two openings at one connector (Pretty sure I've read that this is not the way to go)?
Is the solution something completely different?


texts: Water from bathroom faucet smells like rotten eggs

texts: The sink is in the powder room on the main floor of our house. When I turn the water on it is fine for a few seconds then it smells horribly for about 3-4 more seconds then it is back to normal. It is the only water in the house that smells, so it's not the water coming into the house. I checked the drain and trap and they are clean and have no odor.  I poured water from my kitchen sink down the drain of the powder room and didn't get the odor. So I know the odor isn't coming from the drain or overflow. I plugged the drain and ran the water for about ten seconds and once again got the smelly water. The water in the basin did continue to smell, so I know it is the water coming out of the faucet that smells bad, and not the drain. It doesn't seem to matter if I use hot or cold water. The sink is the closest one to the water heater, if that could make a difference. I'm just not sure where to go from here.


texts: Which wire goes to which terminal on this single pole switch?

texts: I have a simple light switch I want to get hooked up but not 100% sure if it will work. The switch has 1 brass screw on each side and 1 green screw. I read that the black/red wire should go to the brass screw while the white should go to silver, however, this switch has two brass screws and I have 1 black wire and 1 white wire.


texts: How do we add structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount?

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We are preparing to install a single stud TV mount, (Kanto PS300). However the ideal place to put it (visually for the room), lies between two studs.

We want to open up the wall and frame in a faux 24" vertical stud, securely suspended between the real ones, then attach the TV mount wall plate assembly To the faux stud.

So, how do we add a structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount?

We have a handyman coming over who says he can do this but are looking for tips/best practices, (proper blocking/bracing, etc.) from people who know about framing, so we can make sure the job is done right.

We have searched for how to do this but have not come up with much, but it could be that we lack the correct terminology to search for.  Is there a name for what we are trying to do here?

Any help you can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks!


texts: How do steel studs compare to traditional lumber in holding strength?

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How can steel studs possibly compare to traditional lumber in holding strength? The fasteners will at best engage with a minuscule amount of metal of X wall thickness and then break through into empty air which offers no engagement with the threads.
This compared to a screw being embedded in, engaged with, and supported by a constant mass of wood along the majority of its threads as seen in classical 2 by X construction.
Where I'm especially concerned is that noise isolation is very important with this project, which leads to variations of stud and leaf arrangements that become weighty, quickly. Usually, this would mean several sheets of 5/8 Gypsum or the like, concrete board being even heavier!
I'm just not seeing how the entire thing won't become a bit wobbly, with the screw tip, in particular, free to dance around inside the cavity of the stud as it likes when under load.


texts: Want to cover up nail points in attic ceiling

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I'm in the attic every so often to store empty boxes and I'm planning to do some wiring (non electrical) so I'm afraid that I might stand up and have nails through my head.

My plan isn't to cover the whole attic ceiling, just a small section of the attic ceiling. Any ideas on what I can do to cover the nail points?

I tried using a hammer to try to bend it but the nails are way too strong to do that.


texts: My basement kitchen has this circuit (20AMPs or 40AMPS-not sure) , can I run power tools on it?

texts: The breakers of my basement kitchen show like below (the 40 ones). The plug is close top my garage where I might need more power. Since that kitchen is not used, can I use a extender power cord to bring power to my garage (under 5m distance) and use power tools on this circuit? I need to run a dust collector rated at 20AMPs peak power. I run it dry just fine on the existing circuit but I am afraid that when I attached to the DC system and when I run the table saw (Ridgid 3650) I might overload the garage circuit


texts: What is a ring main and why are they used in the UK but not elsewhere?


texts: Very low humidity levels in new construction home - over ventilation?

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I just purchased a new home in the suburbs of Boston with move in date of November 2017. The home has felt unusually drafty and cold and i've had to increase the heat about 4 degrees above what I usually use. Ordinarily i'm comfortable at 68 but in this house the heat needs to be at 72 for equivalent comfort. In addition to feeling a bit uncomfortable, it has been very dry inside the home for the past 2 weeks. I purchased 2 ThermPro Hygrometers and they have consistently read 10-13 RH for the past 2 weeks. Right now it is 5 degrees outside and the RH is measured at 11% both upstairs and downstairs.

We have 2 exhaust fans that appear to run 24/7. They are both located in bathrooms on each floor. I removed the vent cover and there is a switch that reads they are both operating at 110CFM. This means total venting is 220CFM? Curiously, in our home energy audit packet we received it says the mechanical ventilation rate is 145CFM. I wonder why the difference?

I tried turning both exhaust fans to 50CFM for a total of 100CFM and the home seems a little more comfortable but the very low humidity hasn't changed. These fans are running ALL the time. The wall switch will not turn them off.

I'm worried that even at 100CFM the house is being over ventilated causing cold air to be pulled into the house through the building envelope and exhausting warm moist air too quickly causing the house to dry out. I'm also worried about the opposite problem in the summer - too much humid air being pulled into the house.

Here are the specs on the home:

Basic stats of home:
 - 2700sq feet
 - unfinished attic + basement
 - spray foam in attic + basement
 - fiberglass batt in exterior walls
 - forced hot air heat. Dual zone w/ furnaces in Basement and Attic
 - 8 foot ceilings.

Info from energy audit
 - Infiltration rate: Htg 688 Clg: 688 CFM50
 - Method: blower door test

From 2016 IECC r-406 Confirmed Energy Index Report
 - R402.4 - Envelope air leakage maximum leakage rate: (3 ACH50 for
   CZ3-8) PASS

Are indoor RH levels of 10-15% in winter months unusual for a cold climate like Boston?

Could my home be over ventilated?


texts: Shower light blinks immediately after vent fan is turned off

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When I turn "off" my bathroom vent fan, my shower light turns on momentarily until the fan stops spinning.

Both the light and the fan are wired in parallel on the same circuit.

If I drop the shower light (Utilitech 65-Watt Dimmable LED Recessed Retrofit Downlight) suspended in the air (i.e. the three prongs no longer touch the can), the problem goes away.  If I push it back in the can, the problem returns.

At this point I've ruled out everything but paranormal activity.


texts: Wiring going into and out of GFCI outlet. The circuit breaker is good and so is the GFCI outlet reset. Outlets that appear to go one direction from the GFI are working while outlets that appear to go another direction from the GFCI are not. I have checked the connections, stabs and screws, on the effected outlets and they appear to be solid. I'm not too familiar with GFCI circuits and assumed that every outlet coming through the GFCI would be daisy chained. Is this the case? If this is not the case, I am assuming that there is an open between the functioning outlets and the dead outlets. One anomaly that I noticed was, with the circuit breaker off, as I was putting an outlet back in place, the bare ground wire touched a pole on the outlet and arced. Am I getting bleed over from another circuit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. (Note that the GFCI outlet is directly next to the breaker box and all outlets appear to be the other side of the outlet.)


texts: What the white part is on the ceiling in this tutorial?

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there is a tutorial demonstrating HOW TO INSTALL DRYWALL ON A CEILING.

That guy is putting a screw into the ceiling.

Is the white part pointed out by red arrow drywall? If yes, where is paper. That guy said want "drywall screw to be flush with the paper"


texts:
So I'm doing my baseboards in my basement, and I'm running up to what was previously installed.  I'm going to slide the baseboard all the way flush with the vertical part.  From there, I'm a little stumped what to do.  My thoughts were to:

Cut the cap the goes along the stairs vertically flush with the end of the stairs and then leave it blank from the base straight up
Find another piece of trim that matches the cap along the stairs and run it vertically down to the base.  The problem is, that cap is thicker than the base, which I could taper down to meet up, but I have no idea how  I'd deal with the cap on the top of the base
???

Any thoughts as to the best way to blend these?


texts: Why does my voltage tester show power but my outlets don't work?

texts: I removed the light fixture (which was not working due to old age-so I thought) to install LED lights. I thought it was the fixture or bad connection. Having to wait for my LEDs to come in I was going to connect wires back up to have power to the garage door. Well, in short I have power according to hot wire tester all the way to outlet but door opener will not work. I had extra 15A outlet so, I replaced it and still no go.  FYI- breaker shuts off power to garage and to the kitchen and laundry room lights.


texts:
I recently bought this LED dimmer to drive these LED bulbs on my recessed lights.  The fixtures have a built in transformer that drops the voltage to 12v, but I'm bot sure if they are MLV or ELV transformers.

Anyway, the crux of my problem is that the dimmer only slightly dims the lights.  I started with halogen lamps and an older dimmer which was able to dim the lights nicely using the same fixtures.  But the new bulbs and dimmer kind of suck together.  Do I need a different dimmer?  Are these bulbs a poor choice or is this just the reality of LED bulbs?

Leviton published a document laying out bulb compatibility that may or may not shed light on this.  They also published a document on MLV vs ELV low voltage lighting units, which I'm not sure I fully digested just yet.  Anyone else run into a similar problem?


texts: VT1001 talking thermostat has started saying “two sixty four”

texts:
I have a energy star rated VT1001 talking thermostat installed sometime in the early to mid 2000s.  This morning it began to periodicall speak the words “two sixty four” (264). I cannot find anything to explain to me what this means.  I have located and obtained a user manual for a smilar thermostat from the same manufacturer but this gives no explanation.

When this occurs then the light button no longer iluminates the lcd display.  However, pressing the report button does illuminate the display and immediately produces the phrase 264 as discribed above.

Can anyone here tell me what this message means?


texts: Circuit breaker for garage has been fine for ten years.Lately it trips at no certain time.Not when opening garage door etc.Will not trip on a regular basis,but when it did I could reset it and it would be fine for a day or sometimes two.No changes in load on breaker for years. Today I reset breaker and I now have no power at all in garage. Replace breaker?


texts: Best materials to seal curved shower wall corner to shower tray

texts:
The shower on my boat has curved corners where the 'walls' meet. The walls are currently sealed to the tray with a curved profile strip of plastic plus silicon sealant. The profile strips were cut short as the curved corner would have stopped them meeting in a neat 45 degree mitre. The gap between the profile strips was filled with silicon sealant and looks messy.

The sealant is discoloured and needs replacing. What is the best method and materials to seal the curved corner to the shower tray?

I guess that the profile strip was used to hide a gap between the shower wall and the shower tray. I am keen to have all the materials to hand before i remove the old profile and sealant. This is because it is my only shower and I don't have a bath, so once started I'd like to complete the job fairly quickly.

Ceiling above the corner, to give a clearer idea of the corner radius:
ceiling above the corner, to give a clearer idea of the corner radius


texts: Are the washer drain and electrical outlets underneath up to code?

texts:
My daughter got her washer and dryer only to find out that the water supply/drain is 6 feet from the ground.  Obviously none of the hoses can reach.  I am aware that the maximum height for washer drain is 36"....anything higher can cause overflow/backflow.  The 2 outlets underneath....the left one is the dryer outlet and other is standard non gfci.  The Landlord is crappy and wont put ANY money into ANY repairs.  He said to buy extra long water supply hoses and hang the washer drain pipe into a large trashcan.....being since you don't typically find them that long.  Please breakdown Which code specifies potential problems for this setup.  The Landlord asked why it wasn't code.

What needs to be done to correct this?


texts: Is there something like a P-clip but with symmetric flanges?

texts:
This is a P-clip:

It has a round bit which goes round a pipe, and two flanges which come off and present a pair of aligned holes through which you can thread a bolt. Ideal.

One of the flanges comes off the round bit at a tangent, and the other doubles back on itself to come off at a sharp angle. When bolted together, they form a projection which is tangential to the pipe - if you bolted through the flanges to a surface, that the pipe would lie pretty much flat on that surface. Since P-clips are mostly used for mounting pipes to walls, this is, again, ideal.

I have a situation where i want to bolt something to a pipe, but it's not a wall. I actually want to hang something off a pipe. To do this, i need some sort of clip where i can put a bolt through a projection which sticks straight out from the pipe, rather than sticking out at a tangent. Not a P-clip - more of a Q-clip.

(Would a diagram help here?)

Is there such a thing? I have searched for Q-clips, in case that's what they're called, but haven't come up with much.


texts: 100A main breaker trips when using 60A heater

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My heater has a 60A/10 ka breaker inside of it, but the panel breaker is only 50A/10ka. The main breaker is 100A. Service is 240v.

Do I need to upgrade the service panel to solve this issue?


texts: Goodman furnace starts after turning on / off 7 times

texts: I have a Goodman furnace from 2000 has been running great until recently it does not seem to cinc with thermostat. when you shut unit down and turn back on it will go through all motions of starting except igniter will not glow. once you shut off and on about 7 times it will then fire up and run but will then shut off once desired temp is hit but will not turn on again, there is also no codes showing. I'm thinking it may be with the thermostat relay switch??


texts:
So, I have had a buddy lead the way on wiring my basement of a basement finish in a home built in 2017. The builder ran two wires from the panel in the garage to facilitate the finishing of the basement. Of course, now my buddy is on vacation for 2 weeks and I'm at the point of hooking up all my receptacles (so I thought). We spliced the two wires coming in I've attached a picture of that. When testing for power in boxes, I've only got about 60% with power. I'm assuming this has to do with the way the hots are together. Is it about just playing around with them and figuring out the best match? Any insight is much appreciated.

Click for larger


texts:
I'm very new at drilling stuff and I have never drilled a hole in my life before. I need to drill through concrete (I don't know what kind of concrete it is), and I'm wondering if the following drill bit is good for the task.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/sds-plus-hammer-carbide-5-32-in-x-2-in-x-4-in/975357

Also, will the type of hand drill matter when you are drilling through concrete?


texts: Why do I have a reduced flame in my natural gas fireplace when the furnace or water heater runs?

texts:
I have a natural gas fireplace, furnace, water heater and barbecue.

This year I've noticed that my barbecue blows out occasionally when it's on low, even in the slightest wind. I figured the burner was dirty so I vacuumed it clean, but it still blew out.

The pilot light in our gas fireplace runs all year. I start running the fireplace near Christmas for the atmosphere. I fired it up the other day and for a few minutes it ran normally until the furnace started up.  The flame in the fireplace then dropped by almost 2/3 of its normal size.

I'm thinking that it is a gas supply problem because of the similar problem with the BBQ.  Does this sound reasonable?


texts: My wife and are just bought an old house (1927) and we are concerned about a floor mat in one of the bedrooms. We have been told that it could have asbestos so we would really appreciate any feedback. See the image below: