texts: How do I fix a heavily rusted garburator?

texts:
I have an INsinkerator that I never used for years as I hate it.  I tested it out the other day and it no longer works as it appears heavily rusted over due to non-use. I tried the red re-set button, but it wouldn't work. I would hear a low hum and it would pop back out.  I found an allen key and tried turning it from the bottom with no success (seemed super stuck).

Is this fixable?  Is there any way to remove the rust that is safe?  Or am I better off replacing it?

Thanks.


texts: In knob and tube wiring, how to identify neutral wire vs a dead wire?

texts:
I'm in the US, Ohio if that matters.

I have an old house with many circuits still on K&T wiring. I haven't been able to find information on how to identify a neutral wire - most guides just tell you how to identify hot wires, and whatever is left must be neutral.

Some of my K&T wires are disconnected but still in the wall.

Is there a way to identify which ones are neutral vs the ones that are simply disconnected from the electrical box in the basement?

Thanks.


texts: I have no furnace, only electric blowing heaters. How do I get ventilation?

texts:
I have a 100 years old building with a store on the main floor.  Since the building was built over 100 years old there is no ducting whatsoever.  There is also no furnace.  In the summer we just hook up an air conditioner through one of the windows.  In the winter we have a heater blowing the air.

Is an HVAC needed to get ventilation?  Or can I just purchase an Air Exchanger?  I assume I now need to install ducting in the store?  What is the best solution?  Of course the HVAC companies are going to sell me their latest and greatest products out there.


texts: Is it a bad idea to paint the underside of a deck?

texts: What happens when you paint underside of deck? I have been advised not to do that. Can anyone give a good answer?


texts: How can I determine the manufacturer of my diverter?

texts:
I'm currently experiencing the same situation as this post:how-do-i-prevent-this-bath-faucet-from-leaking-while-the-shower-is-running My bath faucet's lever to redirect the water to overhead shower does not fully stop the water.

My plumber is having a difficult time determining the manufacturer to be able to order the nozzle. What are some ways to determine the maker of the nozzle?

Asking since I can't just replace it with the standard chrome or brushed metal ones. My current nozzle is gold-plated (or gold-painted) and the wife would like its replacement to match. Therefore, I need to know the maker to be able to order the part.


texts: Are there any health concerns around treated wood?

texts:
Last weekend I received a pallet of freshly pressure treated (still wet) green Wolmanit feather-edge cladding.

I have started to apply it to various buildings.

Obviously I am handling it with bare hands, there's wood dust from sawing etc.

Is there anything in this treatment that is likely to be a health concern?


texts: My eq-3 Bluetooth Radiator Thermostat CC-RT-BLE is just showing "UPD". How can I "unbrick" it?

texts: The thermostat just shows "UPD" and there is no way to return to the operating mode. How can I complete the update when I didn't pair the device before or deleted the device from the app?


texts: Is it ok to turn off fridge for 2 hours in the evening?

texts:
I live in a small studio. The fridge is really noisy.

I want to put it on a timer and turn it off for 2 hours when I go to bed. Is it safe (food hygiene wise) to do so?

I have a relativley old fridge, but I think the insulation is not too bad. It's a very large fridge, (about my height, about a meter in width)


texts: Patch holes on engineered wood (masonite) siding and mounting security camera

texts:
I have a camera mounted on a wood plank which in turn is mounted on the siding of the garage. Fortunately, it's under the eaves and I didn't see any water getting to this area in the rain.

The dark wood plank looks ugly to me, so I want to get rid of it and either (1) mount the camera directly to the siding or (2) use some kind of a siding mounting block that is small and paintable.

Unfortunately, behind the wood plank, there are 3 holes, each about 1-inch in diameter. Looks like the installer drilled a hole and hit the stud, so drilled another hole, which also hit the stud, and finally on 3rd try, it went through all the way inside.

My questions are:

Should I mount the camera directly to the siding, or use some kind of a siding mounting block? If I want to upgrade the camera at some point, would it be better to use a mounting block?
What do I do with the 3rd hole (where the wire currently goes through) to make it smaller, less visible, and water proof?
How do I patch the 1st and 2nd holes (which serve no purpose)?
Three screws are currently holding the wood plank. How do I patch 3 screw holes once I get rid of the plank?

I'm very new at this, so I'd appreciate any insight you could provide. Thank you so much!


texts: What is the purpose of ABS pipe in an irrigation manifold

texts: I need to replace a failed electric valve in my drip irrigation manifold. The pipes leading to each valve are 3/4" PVC, but they in turn are enclosed in what looks like black ABS pipe, at least 1/2" wider than the PVC. These pipes are open at the top. What is the purpose of the black pipe? Protecting the PVC somehow? I need to cut some of the black pipe away in order to get to the PVC so I can replace the valves.  Any ideas?


texts:
Built a new house a year ago and installed all LED lights. Everything working as it should. Had a power outage and one LED fixture wouldn’t come on. I replaced it with a new fixture that takes bulbs, works fine. Had another power outage today and the wife calls and says 2 LED fixtures won’t work.

Why is this happening? Can I fix a LED fixture?


texts:
I’m not sure what material my roof flashing is except that it is a metal. It started out a whitish or silver color and over the last 10 years has slowly rusted until I’ve finally noticed it. Shame on me.

I don’t believe it is rusted through but it is rusted bad. I got up there and began sanding with  wire brush and various grades of sand paper and under the rust is black. I don’t know if that’s black rust or if the rust/I made it through some coating.
 I’m trying to figure out if there is an alternative to replacing it.

I’ve sprayed a small portion with rustoleum. The kind that coverts rust. Is this a legitimate way to preserve what’s left of my flashing? What should I be mindful of if I use this technique. I sanded it down the best I could. Even got a dremel tool. Rinsed it with soap and water. Hoping I washed it well enough, And depended on the rustoleum to do the rest.

Is this viable? Is there a way to tell if I prepped well enough and the paint is working? Or is there no way to tell until the flashing rust through and destroys?

Q

The black at the top is the section I did after sanding.


texts: I want to add a 48" gate to an existing vinyl 4x4 post that has nothing in it. Should I fill it with concrete or add a 4x4 wood post for added support


texts: What do I need to know when buying fuse for 3-pin plug?

texts:
I just learned that lots of fuse in 3-pin plug of an electrical equipment are actually are blindly fitted and rarely correspond to the correct amperage rating of the electrical equipment, for example most of these fuses are rated 13A when your electrical equipment only pull 3A at most.

I'm getting these fuses replaced with ones of the correct ampere rating. What do I need to know besides ampere rating on those fuses must be equal or slightly higher than what my electrical equipments use?


texts: What should I do with the extra grounding wire in my ceiling fan box?

texts: I am installing a Hampton Bay Ceiling Fan that has a transmitter install for the remote.  I have a green ground and a bare copper ground coming from my ceiling box.  I have a green ground coming from the ceiling fan motor.  The instructions say to connect the two green ground wires (the ceiling box ground and the ceiling fan motor ground) with an electric connecter.  I understand that, however, I am not sure what to do with the copper ground wire out of my ceiling box.  Can I curve the top and attach it to the ground screw on the fan mounting bracket? Do I connect it with the other two green ground wires and make it a party of three?  The rest of the instructions are self explanatory but I want to make this install safe.  Need to make sure I have done the right thing with the grounding wires. The fans are fine if I only want the fan motion, however, using this transmitter with the remote would also provide a light option.


texts: Cracked Tile in New Construction Home - Foundation issues?

texts:
I've recently moved into a new home built in June 2019. Some hairline cracks developed in some of my tiles, but I didn't worry about it too much because they were barely noticeable and the builder is not honoring his warranty. They wouldn't come out to replace their faulty AFCI breaker less than a month into my ownership.

Today, I went into my guest bathroom and noticed that the tile has cracked all the way across the entire floor. To make matters worse, these cracks are large enough that I can feel the edges, and small pieces chipped off while I ran my finger along them. No one uses this bathroom regularly and nothing has fallen on the floor.

Someone has mentioned to me that I might have a serious foundation issue. I'm scared. This is my first home, and I haven't owned it for a year. I have written the builder with images and expressed my concerns and requested that this be address as part of my 1 year warranty but I fully expect to be given grief about it. I can't afford to do major flooring repairs on a house that's brand new.

The images are attached. Can anyone offer any insight?

https://imgur.com/a/b8FID98

Thanks,

Dustin


texts: What open-source materials are available for understanding basic designs for bookshelves / cabinetry?

texts:
I'd like to build a fairly large (11' x 7') set of built-in bookcases with lower doors, and am trying to understand the critical components and construction steps.

I'd like to find freely available materials with good instructions that cover bases such as the basic construction, suggested stock to use, building basic doors, adding finishing touches, and finishing the piece.


texts: How much weight/many people can my rooftop deck hold? 2“x12”x20' joists, 16“ on center, 2”x4" framing under

texts:
How much weight/ How many people can my rooftop deck hold?

The joists are 2"x12" over 20ft, 16" on center
The framing under the deck is typical 2"x4" framing (living space), on a concrete foundation

The deck was built in 1980 up to code. I went through the permits, but was not able to find a weight rating in there. Everything was approved & inspected.


texts: Microwave trips the AFCI almost every time it is used

texts:
Our new microwave trips the AFCI almost every time we   use it. Electrician says it is drawing too much power and we should return it.
Samsung over range Microwave 120 volts 1.5 kw AFGI 20 amp


texts: Looking for help to understand why the 2 blacks from 2 different cables and white from a third cable are pigtailed together. The light switch and outlet switch operate independently so why are they together?


texts: How can I solve an F-28 code problem on a Kenmore HE2 clothes washer?

texts:
Our six year old Kenmore HE2Plus washer is flashing code F-28 about every third wash during its final spin. It's really irritating my wife as she has to stop the cycle and rerun the Rinse/Drain & Spin again, which washes out the fabric softener.

I researched this on the web and did not find a straight-forward solution. Some folks have replaced the motor controller unit (MCU), others the central control unit (CCU), others both, and results are sketchy . Another thing mentioned frequently is checking all electrical contacts between these units.

If you have fixed this problem on an HE2Plus I'd appreciate hearing what you did.


texts: I know all receptacles in a garage require GFCI protection. But what about garage lights? I plan to hard-wire some new wiring to new garage lights and I'm wondering if this circuit needs to be on a GFCI breaker.


texts: Where do I connect my C wire from my thermostat when there are two transformers?

texts: I have a Laars gas boiler that has 3 heating zones. I want to replace the old mercury honeywell tstat on the 1st floor (heat only) with a newer honeywell RTH9580 wifi model. I've taken pictures of my entire system, labeled the wires in the pics to indicate the associated connections, and included the Laars wiring diagram.  There is a transformer mounted on the wall near the boiler that is wired in-line to the system (power from the panel --> into the emergency boiler switch --> into the wall transformer --> then to the boiler (low water cut off and boiler circuitry).  There is also a transformer within the boiler circuitry itself.  Can someone tell me the best method (proper preferred, not necessarily easiest) to connect the C wire?


texts: How to install shelves when only 1/2 inch under drywall

texts:
In a previous reno, drywall was installed over a wall made of a material I can't drill into.

I want to hang some shelves. There's about 1/2" space between the drywall and the previous wall material - not enough to get a toggle bolt in.

If I had a metal plate about 1/2 inch by two or three inches with a place to screw in a bolt in the middle, then I think I could cut a slot in the drywall, insert the plate, rotate 90 degrees, and replace the removed piece of drywall. This would have the same effect as a toggle bolt. I'd repeat for each place I'd normally put a toggle bolt.

However, I don't know where I'd find the parts to do this. Also, maybe there's also a better alternative. Any advice is appreciated.


texts: Running multiple 12/2 through a single box connector

texts: I am installing an upgraded breaker panel and I need to extend the existing branch circuit wires from the existing panel to the new one. I would like to know if it is permissible to run 2 romex 12/2 w/g through a single box connector. I will be using handy boxes as splice boxes and my space is somewhat limited so I would like to make 2 splices in each box and have pairs of romex cables enter the new breaker panel through the same opening.


texts:
I need to make this out of 2x4 lumber.

It's not load-bearing but needs to be somewhat stiff against skew (L-to-R in the image above). The part I'm not sure about is the end-grain to edge butt joints like this:

Given the difficulty I've had in locating examples on the web I assume this joint isn't common.  Most everything I found was end-to-face (sill to stud) and furniture woodworking joints (mortise & tenon, dowel, pocket screws) which are kind of overkill for a simple frame.
What is the accepted way of accomplishing this, and is there a bracket or connector I can use to increase strength?  A connector would need to have an "H" shape and I've not found anything like that online.  Or, is it as simple as using 6" screws to go through the width of the base board?


texts: Outdoor extension cord that can be left unplugged?

texts:
My wife needs to plug her truck in every night (she's a vet, and the drugs need to be refrigerated). Right now she just leaves the extension cord she uses on the ground during the day, which is obviously not waterproof.

Is there a product to make this situation safer? I'm thinking like a cord with a cover on the end, which you can close when the cord is not in use.


texts: Need advice making a self-watering moss pole for plant

texts:
Wasn't quiet sure where to post this, but I am helping my wife make a Moss pole for her plants. The purpose of the moss pole is so that the roots of the climbing plants attach to it and grow bigger (I think). Typically what I've seen is people either misting the moss pole to get it soaked, or using a wicking system which many have said it does not work well.
My idea is to use a 1/2" PVC pipe, use an end cap and drill holes up the PVC, and then wrap the moss around that. Then fill the top of the PVC with water to then get then moss pole saturated. The issue I am facing is I cannot get an even distribution of water.
Different things I've tried:

I used the smallest drill bit 1/16 and stepped up in size as I went up the pvc, this was a no go as the water pressure was too much at the smallest hole and would cause the bottom of the moss pole to be soaked and not allow the water reach the top of the pvc.
Tried 3m temflex 1755 which is a cotton coated tape, I used the tape for the bottom half of the pvc holes and it did slow down the pressure, but not enough to get the moss pole evenly wet.

Picture of my failed attempt:

I tried drawing the problem I am currently facing

The same problem occurs where the holes are getting larger as they go up, or if they are all the same.
It's possible I am overthinking this, but if anyone has some advice on how I can get an even distribution of water from top to bottom I'd appreciate it.


texts: Electrical receptacle inside kitchen cupboard? (California code)

texts:
Is an electrical receptacle allowed inside a kitchen cupboard by the California Electrical Code? (i.e. installed so that the receptacle face plate is on the inside back panel of the the cupboard, so that an electrical device inside the cupboard may be powered). Please cite applicable section of code.

In the case the cupboard is made of wood, it seem the box face would have to be flush with the inside of the cupboard face:

  In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.

2010 Electrical Code, see section 314.20

thanks

tom


texts: How do I patch an in-ground ceramic drain pipe?

texts:
So tonight I was digging a post hole for a new fence tonight. And as I'm digging the hole I hear a hollow thump, crack. Behold:

This pipe is a downspout drain pipe that runs from the front of my house to the back yard.

So ideas on how to fix it? Can I just put a piece of PVC pipe on top and cover it back up and call it good? I'm worried the PVC will move on top of it over time.

Ideas?


texts: I was told I only needed 2 bags of polymeric sand for my project. It's turning out I need more. I used the two bags and my project is not complete, I haven't shaken it down yet, and I can't buy more in my location until tomorrow. Should I Just activate what's there? Would putting a tarp over it prevent the dew from messing with it overnight? Would dew not even mess with it? What should I do?? I used G2 Intelligent Polymeric Sand.


texts: Adding a new fireplace to upstairs bedroom. Want to tap into existing unused vent

texts:
Our house used to have a wood burning stove in the basement. We also have a fireplace on the first floor of the house, leaving two separate vents in our chimney.

Before we bought the house it was renovated and a heat pump was added. As such, the basement wood stove was removed. The chimney vent for that stove is obviously still in the chimney so I was wondering if it is possible for a contractor to tap into that vent from our upstairs bedroom. The bedroom is directly adjacent to the chimney (behind drywall) but I figure if we can just tap into that vent it will save some time and money over adding a new stack.

I realize there are probably some building code restrictions in my area, but I am just trying to see if this is something that can be done?


texts: While trying to stop the ticking noise coning from my furnace ducts, I accidentally dropped a small piece of fire retardant foam (as you can see in the below photos) in one of the vertical furnace ducts in my basement. I can’t tell how far down it does with my fingers. Is this cause for concern (should I have someone remove it)?


texts: Can I terminate a ground wire to the neutral bus if the ground bus is full?

texts: I  have a Crouse-Hinds main load center.  The ground bus is at the top left of panel and the neutral bus is at the bottom right of the panel.  I want to add a 15 amp circuit for two outlets in my garage.  The ground bus bar terminals are full.  My question is can terminate my neutral and ground wire both to the neutral bus bar as long as they each are different terminals on the neutral bus bar.  This load center is main panel and not a subpanel.


texts:
My house was built in 1981, we have a small U shaped kitchen with 5 outlets, along with a switch for the garbage disposal.

I do not see any GFCI outlets or any indication any of them are.  With a 4 month old now in the house, I am thinking it is a good idea to look at the electrical.

My question is if the outlets are all on the same line (they all go off with one switch in the breaker), can I install one GFCI outlet and it would protect al of them, or do I need to replace all 5?

I am fine either way, just do not want to spend the time and money if it doesn't serve a purpose.   Is there a way to identify if they are in series or parallel?  And if so would that impact if I need to replace them all or one?

I have read some basics on GFCI but get some conflicting reports on if one will protect them all.


texts: Is there any liquid to stop leakage inside pipe or fitting

texts: i want to ask i have doubt there is a leakage in UPVC pipes or fittings but i am not able to find out this leakage is there any liquid to stop the leakage ( like i just put some kind of liquid inside pipe and leakage should be stopped) i need this liquid name? all pipes and fittings underground.


texts:
I tried installing a 3-way TP-Link HS210 switch in my staircase, and I have a few questions:
Both switches have:
Black wire connected to a black screw (common wire?)
White wire connected to a gold screw (neutral?)
Red white connected on the opposite side (traveler?)
The switch is inside a metal box with the ground copper wire tied around a screw

Both switches have the exact same configuration, the only difference is the one at the bottom is in a 2 gang box, but with independent sources feeding into it so I don't think it makes a difference (?)

The ground copper wire is too short to pull out to connect to the switch - should I get an extension and crimp them together, or can I just cap the ground green wire from the TP-Link switch and call it a day?

I made the connections to the new switches:

Black wire to the black screw on the HS-210
Tied the 2 white wires together and capped them
Red wire to the traveler screw on the HS-210

I did this for both switches, flipped the power back on and instead of flashing green/orange, the switch flashes orange with a blue circle (power)

So this leads me to believe that it's a wiring issue and not an internet/connection issue.
Next I tried connecting the old switch at the bottom of the stairs and the HS-210 at the top of the stairs. I was then able to connect to the switch, but when I flipped the old switch on, the lights just turned on/off repeatedly.
I just put the old switches back for now until I can figure this out, but any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
Is it acceptable to ground outlets or switches through a metal device box (not pig tailing)?

The switches are connected to a long ground wire going to the light which are also screwed to the back of the box. The Ground form the lead (cut short) is screwed to the back of the box as well. My question is if the metal box is an acceptable method for connecting all the ground wires together completing the chain to the earth. The dark green dots in the diagram are screws fastening the ground wires to the box. (This is in Ontario Canada)


texts: Does it make sense to install a fan at an A/C register to draw more airflow on a slow branch?

texts:
My house has always had a problem with airflow to the back bathroom.  The 6" pipe in this image is the feed from the main hallway to the back bathroom.  House designed in 1973.
It seems the only way I can increase airflow to that bathroom would be to put a fan on the register or prior to register to draw the air from the main hallway at a higher rate.  I figure I can add a fan with a relay switch controlled by a thermostat through Home Assistant to kick in when the conditions are such that it would be needed.
Is adding a fan to the register a thing that actually happens as a solution for poor airflow?


texts: What is the proper setback from the curb for a mailbox?

texts:
I seem to recall my mailbox having instructions on what the proper setback was from the curb for mounting it.  Unfortunately, I was too lazy to re-set  the post for the mounting hardware after the snowplow took out my mailbox last year, and didn't want to move the post even though the hardware was different, and I remember that the instructions gave a setback, which I was technically not complying with (as the new mailbox had different mounting hardware).

As I can see from looking out the window that my mailbox got taken out again this year ... at what distance should I have it from the front of the curb?  (and I'm in the U.S.)

(UFPI says a "must be at least 8 to 12 inches away from the curb of the street"; Answers.com claims 6-9 inches; eHow claims 6-8 inches)


texts: Installing bathroom exhaust fan (light, fan, and heater) with three seprate switches on wall

texts: Need help on wiring light unit. Have three plug-ins inside unit. One for light , one for fan , and one for heater. Have three cables coming into unit. All three cables are 2 wire with ground wire. Black wire , white wire, and ground in each cable. One cable goes to a junction box and other two cables come from wall switches. Light plug has one blue and one white wire. Fan plug has one black and one white wire. Heater plug has one red and one white wire. How are the three cables wired to the plugs and ground.Furnace quit working after first attempt.


texts:
I have some 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX left over and thinking about using it as conduit for ~20' ethernet or phone cable. Pipe is appropriately orange.

Will the aluminium layer provide RF shielding? (assuming I manage to ground it)

Is this a bad idea?


texts: how to remove a screw with head broken off

texts: was working on my car's power steering and whilst screwing the fluid inlet on the head of the screw broke off. the inet hole is about an inch long and that was the part of the screw that broke. the other part of the screw is now flush with the power steering pump surface. i tried drilling it out, brazing it ( could not get the two metals to bond)  i chipped at and tried to bend the sides of the screw. next up is dremeling a slot. is there any hope for me to get this small 2 inch screw (i think #8 screw)removed from my life??


texts:
I would like to connect two tracks (Example H-Track). Only the first track has access to a power source (Connector used). I know that there are adapters that which would connect two tracks directly to each other. However, the tracks are further apart and there is a wooden beam in-between them.
Is it possible to connect the two tracks with two live-end adapter through wires (which I could snake through the attic space)? I was thinking of using two of these and connect them to each other: live end connector

Is this an entirely bad or even dangerous idea?

What are my options if the proposed idea is not recommended?

Thank you very much for all your help!


texts:
I cleaned off the left side of my oil tank in this picture:

My question is what caused it to get this dirty and is this normal or should I consider getting a new tank?

Some notes:

The rags that I cleaned it with reek of oil/diesel
The gauge piece is not air tight and comes right off
When our oil company delivers you can smell it in the house


texts: How do I remove window sill stop block on double-hung vinyl window?

texts:
The vinyl double hung window was installed on my brick house a few years ago. The Screws that hold the replacement windows are drilled in through the bottom of the drain holes with no caulking on the screw heads. Now there are rusted screws and water leaking in home and has molded inside walls. Walls have been torn off and mold remediated...
The question I have is how do I get to the screws to replace and caulk? I don't want to break the bottom sill stop but I don't know exactly how to "pop" it off. I feel like I can pull it up a little bit but don't want to snap this plastic and destroy integrity of window.
I didn't own the house when the install occurred, but no caulk on window screws is a huge workmanship error in my simple mind. I only can reach one of the screws with my hand and screw head is rusted with no caulk in sight.
Any assistance is much appreciated...BTW I have the exact set of windows 5 more times around my house so this may be a much needed process if this is the same procedure used on each set.
Here's the overview of the situation:

Here is a closeup of a leaky screw:

Here is the window sill stop block

Here is that window after removing the stop block:


texts: Help determine current usage of my electrical panel and available capacity to add new equipments

texts:
I am a new townhouse owner and and hoping to get some help from experts here to understand my breaker panel, specifically

What is the total amperage service to my unit.
How much capacity is currently used by breakers already installed and how much is free.
Can I add an air-handler and / or a tank water heater to it without upgrading? What is the general process by which I can determine this for any device? What is the key piece of information that determines this?

I did talk to couple of contractors but didn't get satisfactory answer.I tried to read about it over the internet but I have failed to apply those learnings to my situation.

I have attached pictures of my panel and main panel.

Edit: Adding some more details:

Better image of the panel

Other details:
1600 Sq feet livable area (1900 including basement)
Cooking on gas all other appliances electric
Currently have 3 ton gas furnace and 3 ton AC


texts: Can an electrical junction box be closed and covered if not needed?

texts: Can an octagon fixture box that was also found to be a junction box, be closed and covered over in the ceiling after remodeling. Box not needed.


texts: Old house, old windows. Ways to save on gas this winter?

texts:
We have an old tudor revival house in the Pacific Northwest. Our winters are mildly warm, but long. Our old house had insulation blown into the walls which may have done something... but the windows are still big, single pane leaded things, and there are a lot of them.

For about 5 months over the last winter we were footing $300/month bills to keep the place decently warm. We'd like an option that will be cost effective over another two winters, if not this winter.

Ripping them out and installing new windows all around is too ambitious.
Wrapping them in plastic is not possible because the plaster is sort of set around the sill in a quasi-adobe way/
Is throwing on storm windows a good middle-of-the-road option?

I estimate we can do some if not all of them for less than $2K. Will that reduce drafts and heat loss? Would it pay off in the long run? And lastly, is it worth it to hire a contractor for a second eye and/or to measure out/order/install the storms at the turn of Autumn?


texts: How do I keep drawer knobs from loosening over time?

texts:
I see knobs like this on cabinets, dressers, and closet doors. They are held in place with a single wood screw.

Very often they are loose. I guess when we grab them we often impart a slight twist. Also, temperature and humidity changes cause the wood to swell and shrink. The system is biased towards unscrewing, so over time they loosen up.

My DIY instinct says that this is bad. That the screw will strip out the knob, or it will ream out the hole in the door. Well, it seems sloppy.

When I notice one, I give it a twist to tighten. Sometimes I put my finger over the screw head to hold it still. When it's really stiff, I might get out the multitool. Sometimes, in my enthusiasm, I strip out the knob. Doh!

What's the best way to deal with these things? For example:

Use handles that take two screws.
Put a washer under the head to distribute the load, then make them really tight.
Keep them all tight according to a schedule.
Only use knobs made of strong wood, and keep them tight.
Use knobs that take a machine screw instead of a wood screw.
Put wood glue in the screw hole.
Use door designs that don't need a handle.


texts: How to select the most appropriate indoor LED bulb color

texts:
I want to buy LED bulbs to install in all the rooms and I don't know

What are the criteria to select the proper ones (for eye and
physiologically good).
How to distribute them in every room ( I mean How many in every room
and what's the distance between them)

I want the lighting most close to the sun light especially the sunset (Warm), because I want to feel the forest atmosphere, like this one:

I have read some numbers in K but I can't recognize the most suitable one:


texts: Lawn Mower (probably) Electrical Problem

texts:
This is a ~2013 Troy Bilt Horse tractor.

I need some advice on how to troubleshoot my mower starting.  It cut out right when I was mowing, and had cut out intermittently for a few days before that.  It would never actually stall, just start to kind of like I had raised up the seat and grounded the dead-man switch.

Now, I have done the following:

Checked the gas and the fuel line past the filter, and there's gas flowing.
Verified the mower turns over, and verified 2 of the safety switches:
1 If the brake is on, it turns over.  If the brake is off, it does not.  I take this to mean the brake safety switch is working

2 If the PTO is dis-engaged, it turns over.  If it is engaged, it does not.  I take this to mean the PTO switch is functioning

3 Verified that the seat switch is hooked up, and it appears to work mechanically.  I'm not sure that this is not the problem - maybe a short in the wire?

Mower turns over OK, it just won't start now.  The first maybe 5 times I tried it sounded like it was going to start then died.  Now it just turns over with no change to the noise or cadence of the motor.

What should I do to test the shorted wire?  I have removed the mower cover and can see some of the wiring harness.  I also have the spark plug and magneto accessible.

Any suggestions as to what to do?  I can't inspect the seat switch wire 100% because it goes through the body of the mower.  What's likely the problem?

Thanks.


texts:
My water softener was filling up with water and when I called the tech specialist, they said it was my O-Rings were damaged and needed replacement. On taking the top parts off the drum, the inside of the OUTLET piping going into the house is a brown waxy/slimy substance. I called the Kenmore technical guys again and they said that the resin in the drum had turned to mush and I needed a new softener - this is 14 years old now.
Please see below pic and advise if this is the case or what else it could be. Please also advise if this is toxic and what anything can be done to clean it out?

EDIT - I see that resins can be replaced. If this is a resin issue, can the resin be replaced easily enough?

EDIT2 - I find now that resin costs $250. A new softener is $400. So do I bite the bullet and pay $400 to replace a 14 year-old unit? Or replace the resin (if it is the resin that is a problem).


texts:
I am a new homeowner. My lady and I have lived here for almost one year now. I've lived through a near-complete home restoration throughout my youth in my parents' home, and have picked up quite a few sets of skills when it comes to all things DIY. I've worked in a hardware store for several years, and have refined said skills there.

So far, I've basically only touched aesthetics in the home - removed all the old floors on the main floor, to set down a new subfloor and hardwood.

We are now planning more major renovations in the home : tearing down two walls upstairs to convert from a two bedroom floor to a master suite. Seeing as I will be doing major work, I wanted to get your input on my electrical situation.

The panel is a new (less than 10 year old) 200A breaker box. The electrician who installed it rewired into the box the original home wiring - non-grounded paper-covered wire. It looks tired and brittle. This also causes me issue when wanting to plug certain appliances that require a 3-pin plug (the original plugs are the old two pin plugs).

I have an unfinished basement where I can follow every single wire from panel to wherever it runs upward.

In your opinion, is it possible to rewire the portions of the house affected by simply removing my connections from the panel, then opening the wall boxes, attaching a wire fish and pulling the old wire and fish through the walls, to be able to pull new wiring back, or could I run into trouble doing so? I know that some areas are tighter and I will need to pull some drywall, but in your experience, could I get lucky enough that this could work on some lines?

Thanks for your time.


texts: What kind of grease can be used on outdoor screws to avoid rust

texts:
I have fixed some screws outside to mount a house number onto masonry.

I feel like I should probably apply some sort of grease or water repellent to avoid rust as they will be exposed to rain frequently.

What kind of grease should I smear over them to avoid any potential rust over time.

I've done some reading and I keep seeing copper or lithium grease mentioned to preserve bolts, are these right for screws or is there something else?


texts: How to prevent blinking LED on a three way Lighted switch circuit with only one light fixture?

texts:
I have a stairwell that has only one wall sconce with two switches that are lighted when off. one upstairs, and one downstairs. I recently replaced Sconce, and added an LED 60 watt bulb; I triple checked all connections, and all is fine; however when I have light turned off is flashes. I have read many things about dimmers causing this, and some suggesting the use of incandescent bulb in another light, however I only have one Sconce on this circuit.

any tricks for fixing this flashing without adding another sconce?

Thank You in advance!

Suede


texts: How do I mount a new TV antenna to an existing antenna mast?

texts:
I would like to mount my new antenna to the side of my existing antenna mast. Is there a device that I can buy that will clamp on to both poles?

Update - With pictures

Picture 1 is an old antenna mast and I would like to mount my new antenna 2 to somewhere on the side of the antenna mast.


texts: Need help with wiring new Thermostat. Original 3 wire to Sensi Emerson

texts: Hoping to get some help with this.  The current old thermostat has a R (red wire) ,G (black wire, switches to blue at the furnace end) , and W (white wire).  I noticed at the furnace side the white wire was connected to both the W1 and W2 terminal.  When i called Emerson they said i would need a "C" wire to make it work despite them advertising it as not needing a "C" wire.  When i plug in the 3 connection points (R,W,G) into the Sensi APP, it comes back as invalid connection point.  However, if i add that it has W1, W2 (since the white wire is connected to both those terminals, it comes back as compatible (R,G,W1,W2).  So what I'm thinking is I connect the R (old) -> RH (new), the G (old) -> G (new), and the W (old) -> W/E (new), and daisy chain (jump) the W/E to the W2 on the back of the Sensi.  Any info on whether this will work would be appreciated.  Or any other tips to getting it to work.  Its a heat only system.  I have provided some pics.  Thanks


texts: Will neodymium magnets harm my power drill battery?

texts: I glued some magnets onto my power drill battery to use for storing drill bits on - but will the magnets affect the battery life?


texts: How can I clean decomposing grass goo off my concrete driveway?

texts:
I set a bag of grass clippings on my driveway, and then forgot about them on garbage day.  When I remembered to put them out this week, the bag left behind a black goo on the driveway.  I tried scrubbing it with water and a scrub brush, and even tried some Clorox clean up.  But the stain is persistent.

What is the best way to clean this type of stain off of concrete?


texts: Should I upgrade #14 wiring on a 20 amp circuit to #12?

texts: I have a 20 amp breaker feeding my detached garage. It comes in on 12/2 to a receptacle that’s for the garage door opener then splits off to 14/2 on 2 light fixtures. Should I change those to 12/2 for those light fixtures because I wanted to add another receptacle?


texts:
Power supply units are often large relative to the outlet and block access to adjacent outlets in a power bar.

A simple solution is to use 1/2 ft or 1 ft (15cm, 30cm) power extension cords to keep all outlets in a power bar available.

Yet my hunch tells me that doing so increases the fire risk.

Could someone with actual knowledge in the matter pitch in with an opinion?

Does unblocking power bar outlets through short extension cords increase fire risk?

I am not considering an exotic setup (daisy chaining, forking, etc..), nor will the wattage be high (laptop and paraphernalia, at most a stereo amplifier in one slot). The question is whether this increases the risk of fire. The idea is that there are now many more places where rust, or just a poor contact, will happen. And rust/poor contacts cause heat that can spiral to something sinister.

Update

I marked Isherwood's answer right, but thanks to Harper's and Owain's answers I see now that there is an abundance of options to avoid even a small increase in risk. One key keyword is "metal". Search, for example, for "metal power strip" to see ones where right angle plugs will not occlude adjacent outlets. Some have a larger inter-outlet spacing. The challenge is find one not painted yellow.


texts: How can I protect a hardwood floor against dog claws?

texts: I just bought a house with new hardwood floors.  One of my dogs is a little wild and keeps sliding and scratching the floors up.  I've tried cutting her nails and she won't wear boots.  Does anybody have any ideas as to how to prevent this?  Is there such a thing as professional hardwood coatings?


texts: Should I erase pencil marks on primed trim before painting

texts:
Trim is primed mdf and contains a lot of pencil marks for measurements.  Should I erase the pencil marks before painting over top?  Unprimed mdf same question.
Paint is off white latex.


texts:
My house has two HVAC systems. One is in the attic and has supply and returns in the ceiling of the second floor. The other is in the basement with supply and returns at the floor of the first floor. Each has a thermostat on the respective floor.

This makes one terribly poor at heating and one poor at air conditioning and overall difficulty to keep the house comfortable. The staircase is open so I can't isolate the floors.

I'm thinking of connecting ductwork between the two so each will circulate some air to and from both floors. Probably 6 or 8 inch duct between them. Will this cause any issues?


texts: what are these two things in my basement and can they be used to add a bathroom

texts:
I am not a technical person and I am wondering what are these two things in my basement?

I think one of them is the water input (with meter) for my house
the second one coming from the ground is for the wastewater output

I am wondering can they be used to add a full bathroom in my basement? the reason I am asking is I contacted a contractor on the phone and he gave me two prices based on whether he needs to dig the concrete foundation to connect the wastewater.


texts: Is it normal to have your load bearing wall not line up with your basement support posts and joist?

texts: I am looking to do a pass through in my kitchen, and I was looking to confirm in the basement if everything lined up nicely for the 5-6' header I was going to put in. I noticed that the wall (load bearing) is not actually over the basement posts and joist but about 1 foot away. Is this an okay / normal occurrence?


texts: Which cutting style avionic snips do I choose if I have to choose just one?

texts:
Avionic snips (aka compound-action snips) come in three cutting styles - straight cutting, left cutting and right cutting. I plan to work with roofing corrugated steel and have no idea in advance what cuts exactly I'll have to do. Buying all three styles seems an overkill.

I guess straight cutting won't very versatile if I have to make some tight curve cut, so I have to choose between left cutting and right cutting.

Which style do I choose if I have to choose exactly one style without knowing the exact cutting patterns in advance?


texts: How should this light fixture be connected?

texts: Replacing kitchen light, house wiring to box: 2 white twisted together (neutral), 1 red (hot when switch is on), no ground. Fixture: 1 D shaped ridged wire, 1 smooth (round) wire, 1 ground wire. My guess on connections, D shaped fixture wire to white house wires, smooth (round) fixture wire to red house wire, fixture ground wire to metal fixture box? Is this right?


texts:
This may sound like a stupid question but I only have this couch for a few years.

It has a type of synthetic skin, maybe nappa and it's getting all damaged, and splitting in some places.

Here is what is what's happening

Is there a way to prevent the skin to get out? Is there a good suggestion to fix it?

Maybe I can buy a material that is similar and myself do some patches.


texts: Attempted to change outdoor light fixture and now no power

texts:
I decided to change an outdoor light fixture in front of my garage with a new one.
I made sure the light was off, but didn't turn the circuit breaker to off until I realized that I'd have to start messing with the wires coming out of the wall.
Once the circuit breaker was off, I removed the old fixture, noting that the wires were black to black, white to white, and copper to ground.
I installef the new light fixture in the same manner,  following instructions to put the wires in the caps and twist.
When I was done I flipped the circuit breaker back to on, but the power didn't come back on in the garage. I tried flipping on and off a few more times, including the master switch,  but still nothing.
Thinking that maybe the fuse in the circuit breaker was bad, I went out and bought a new one that wad the closest match that I could find. 15-15A.
I flipped the master switch to off, removed the old breaker and installed the new breaker, but still no power to the garage.
Since I uninstalled the new fixture, the wires are currently bare but I made sure they aren't touching.
Any ideas what it could be?


texts: How does the drywall meet a direct-to-tub surround edge?

texts: Does the drywall get placed over the lip or meet at the lip?


texts:
Today, while in the crawl space under the house, I found a large hole that has water in it. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do about it.

I had noticed a depressed area under the house in the past, possibly starting four or five years ago. Since I rarely go under the house, I didn't pay much attention to it; but, over the last year I'd noticed it was larger.

Today, I thought I would fill it in with some old concrete block pieces. That's when I realized how big a hole it is. It's about 4' wide.  And, it about 3' deep.

I hooked up a light and took a picture (below) and discovered that there are spiral steel/iron rings in the hole.  The rings appear to be three or four feet in diameter. The water is cloudy, but there's no smell. And, there is no perceptible movement of the water. The photo doesn't show the water; but, it's maybe 3' deep.

I think this must have been a drainage pipe built before our subdivision was constructed in the 1980's.

Anyway, it's clear that about 3 cubic feet of soil has washed away so far.  So, I have to do something.

Should I phone the local county storm drainage folks and ask them to check it out? Or, is this a problem I'll need to hire a contractor for? If so, what type of contractor?

Will appreciate advice from someone with knowledge of this type of problem.

Update 4/24/14: Received sump pump today and used it to pump out a lot of water: my guess is about 90 gallons. And, not done yet. Further, while running the water hose for the pump over to a vent another hole appeared. It's smaller, but right next to a pier. And, shining a light down in this hole, similar spiral metal coils with water below were visible. The spirals rings are on line with those in the first hole, about 15 feet away.

What I'm planning on doing is: keep pumping the water out of the first hole; move pump to second hole and repeat; dig outside the crawlspace and try to locate the water tunnel  and pump it dry there too. After all water is removed, wait a few weeks to see if water returns, and from which direction. Finally, after stopping the source of the water, fill the complete tunnel with dirt.  But, if anyone has any better ideas I'm flexible.


texts: Is a 4000W line voltage thermostat sufficient here?

texts:
I want to upgrade a baseboard electric thermostat to a programmable. The existing digital, non-programmable thermostat is rated for 22A (5280W) (made by PSG). The only programmables I can find max out at 16.7A/4000W.

The base boards are 2 units wired in parallel from one feed wire. They are rated for 8.3A/2000W (Marley 2548). The circuit is wired with #12 wire, 20A breaker.

It seems a 16.7A/4000W thermostat is fine. I'm just wondering if the higher rating of the original thermostat indicates anything to be concerned about, or was just a choice of the original installer for other reasons.


texts: Can insulation touch the roof sheathing in a sloped garage roof without soffit vents?

texts: I am beginning to install fiberglass insulation in my garage and want know if I have done the ceiling wrong. The issue is that the insulation touches the roof sheathing in the sloped area below that I marked in yellow. There are no soffit vents at the bottom of the sloped area. There are two triangular gable vents (one pictured, one on the other end) as well as a roof ridge vent. Do I need to remove the insulation I have installed and staple rafter vents to separate the insulation from the roof sheathing, or are they not needed in this area there aren't any soffit vents? Thank you.


texts: What type of insulation should be used to deter subterranean termites?

texts:
My house's structure is made of wood and there are subterranean termites (non-formosan) in my yard and area. I am planning to excavate and insulate the slab perimeter in the interests of saving on heating, but am worried about creating a termite highway.
I figure XPS is right out, and I'm not sure about termite-treated EPS either. The availability, price per R, and ease of installation are attractive, but since the advertised termite resistance just comes from a chemical treatment, I worry that it will fade or leach out over time.

I've considered foamglas, which would be ideal due to its many desirable qualities, but it's ridiculously expensive compared to the alternatives.
What about rigid mineral wool boards? I see people online claiming it's resistant to termites, but I've been unable to locate any real confirmation or denial of this. My sense is that the mineral wool industry would be advertising this if it were true (as the foamglas industry does). So what's the skinny?


texts: 2 wire thermostat wire want to be able to select fan only

texts: I have an older furnace with only 2 wires at the  thermostat "white and red". No issues at all with my system works as should.  Thermostat is new Honeywell basic model not smart. I want to be able to turn it on fan mode only. I do not have an ac unit attached. I only want this option to help circulate air in my house. Cooler in the summer and in the winter we run a gas fireplace that roast us out of the living room but everywhere else is cooler.i have an electrical background but Zero funace knowledge. I know ill have to run a new wire 3 or 5 doesn't really matter have easy access. My question is how i would hook this up ive seen plenty of post "c" wire G wire and what I'm looking at doesn't look that straight forward or im over thinking this.


texts: Should I remove existing drywall before framing a wall around HVAC ducts?

texts: My friend has soft AC ductwork running up an interior wall. He wants to build a wall around it to hide the ductwork.  My idea is to pack out the wall by nailing in framing between the ductwork right to the existing framing.  My question is, do I need to remove the drywall to pack out the framing, or can I just nail 2x4s to the existing framing through the drywall? I would then drywall over the new 2x4s to hide the ductwork and go from there.  I am certain it would be solid, I just want to be sure.


texts:
Our house has a damp/musty smell to it when you first enter.  Once you open a window/door the smell usually dissipates. In May (Chicago-land) the humidity in the house is about 30% upstairs and 40% in the crawlspace while dehumidifiers run on both floors.

We noticed that of our crawlspace dirt floor is moist, almost mud-like, along the front side of our house.  See picture below.  The floor moisture creeps forward a foot during heavy rains, and recedes a foot during dry spells, but almost never disappears entirely. The rest of the crawlspace floor is dry.

We notice no cracks in the foundation wall, and no water lines running down the wall.  We recently installed a French drain to reduce the amount of water hitting the front of the house (the floor dampness existed before installing the drain).  The gutters dump water into a pipe system that the sump pump uses, and shouldn't be dumping water at the foundation of the house.

Our sump pump runs routinely, about every 10 minutes during rain and every 30 minutes during dry spells.  Ground water is always slowly pouring into the sump pit.

Is this damp ground something to be concerned about?  Can it be fixed? Is it possible that the damp smell comes from the crawlspace floor moisture, or from something else?  How can we get rid of the damp smell? We want to hire mold specialists to test and clean the crawlspace but are afraid their work will be wasted if we don't eliminate the source of the moisture first.


texts: Do I need to remove these border stones if I want to regrade the soil next to my house?

texts:
Here is my dilemma: to remove the stones or not (line of stone at top left in the lawn). My plan would be to regrade the soil next to my wall and to add concrete slabs on top of the grade soil. I also have lots of limestone screening and gravel that I just removed from the bed of a shed that I demolished.

The area in enclosed by the border stones is mostly dry except for the corner where I have the problems shown in the picture. The border stones are set under the dripping line of my roof.

My question is this:  Do I need to remove those stones in order to do a proper job?

If I grade the soil aren't my slabs going to be sloped as well? I am wondering what is the proper way to do this, which is to have the soil graded and the slabs level.
(The picture has some more annotations because I intend to ask a couple of more questions about this project.)

Edit: I amfinally resuming my work on this and I wanted to see if anybody can tell me if this is recommended or not. As you can see in the second picture I am planning to add a second line of stones like the ones you see in the first picture and after that I would like to put the precast concrete slabs on top of them. The stones that are closer to the house will be set higher and that will give the slabs a slight slope.
Question: do I need to fill in with gravel and crushed lime stone or I can simply add soil there? I am thinking that soil should be enough since the slabs will sit on the stones anyway. What do you guys think?


texts: What is a bus bar in an electrical switch board?

texts: I am doing some research in electrical wiring and mains switch boards and was wondering what a bus bar is and what it does?


texts: Door Replacement: Pre-Hung doors vs Slab doors

texts:
A building needs to have its doors replaced: when does it make sense to replace with a slab and when does it make sense to replace with a pre-hung door?

The doors need to be replaced because they are falling apart & no longer close.  The interior and some exterior doors are wood.    The goal is to understand what questions should be asked when determining if a slab or pre-hung door is warranted.


texts: Waterproofing nail holes in a hardwood bathroom floor?

texts:
I’m face nailing my new hardwood flooring (Tasmanian Blackwood 19mm x 130mm) then puttying the knot holes and nail holes. This will be done through the whole house. The subfloor is Particle Board (Brand name: Yellow Tongue) that has been glued and screwed down.

My question:

In the bathrooms I want to do a boat deck look. To accomplish this I’m going to waterproof the subfloor (there is also a floor drain in the event of flooding) then use strips of Dupont Flexwrap under the hardwood, between it and the waterproofing in the nail areas only so when nailing it will seal the nail holes. Finally I will use black Sycaflex or a comparable product to seal the spacing lines (I will be leaving equal spacing between each board) after I have applied a water resistant finish. SO, is the Dupont Flexwrap needed to seal the nail holes or is this just overkill?


texts: How is pre-wiring done for motion sensors / alarm system in new construction?

texts:
In new construction, how is pre-wiring done for alarm systems, when then alarm may not be installed right away (or ever)?

It makes sense to me to actually install recessed door contacts (they're only a few dollars each) and run the wiring back. I suppose if using window sensors it would make sense to do those as well (or just use motion sensors / glass break sensors and save a lot of work).

It also makes sense to run at least a couple wires up into the attic, for a siren or other future use.

What I'm not sure of is motion detectors. What's the best way to leave the wires to be able to hook them up later? Any tricks to avoid cutting a giant hole in the wall later?

Any other considerations to pre-wiring?


texts: Is the insulation/jacket of UF cable rodent-resistant/rodent-unpalatable?

texts: Is there something in the insulation/jacket of type UF cable that makes it unpalatable to rodents or resistant to rodent attack?  Or does it need to be protected from rodent damage when run outdoors, esp. aboveground? (Say, by pulling it through IMC or RMC, just like you'd do if it could be hit by an errant weedwhacker or car bumper.)


texts: Is it safe to swap the neutral wire between the supply and load side?

texts:
I have a double-pole cooker switch I wanted to replace. But careless me forgot to mark the neutrals when disconnecting the old switch.

The socket has 4 wires, 2 red and 2 black. One red & black pair is the supply (of which I've marked the live wire), the other pair goes to my AC unit.

Is it safe if I just connect the 2 neutral wires to whichever side?

Picture below illustrates my situation. Except there's no Earth wire in my case.
Can I swap where the neutral wire goes on the switch? (Yellow circles)

Thanks in advanced!


texts: Chemical reaction damaged finish on my dining table

texts:
I seriously damaged the finish on the TOP of my Ethan Allen Royal Charter dining room table.  The table about 42 years old.
It was sprayed with a aerosol dusting product (which now I know is a NO NO) and then I put a plastic cover on it not realizing the spray had not yet completely dried. I guess there was a chemical reaction as the finish is now soft & it can be removed with a finger nail. Much later I put a plastic table cloth on with a "flannel back"  and the fuzz actually stuck to the table in some areas.
I have tried Murphy's Oil soap on the table top but there of course was no improvement.
How can I fix this?
Elaine


texts: Prevent cupping and splitting of wet PT deck boards?

texts:
Building a deck now in hot South Carolina. I purchased #1 premium deck boards very nice appearance no knots etc..
The boards are very wet and even though I was sure to put them in the bark up position some are cupping because of the high heat of the summer sun. I think the rapid drying conditions are causing this.
Is there a recommendation for slowing the initial drying phase?

I am going to stain the deck but everything I’ve read says not to do so for months or even a year after install.


texts: What size torsion spring does my garage door need?

texts: I have a 17'x7' insulated garage door and one of my torsion springs broke last night.  The previous owner said that they replaced the original ones with smaller versions because that's all the store had in stock at the time. I want to get the most appropriate size for my door but I dont know what needs to be considered.  What size torsion springs should I use, or how can I figure it out?


texts: Which is the hot wire, neutral wire and ground wire?

texts:
I am trying to replace my ceiling lamp. I have wiring which looks like this:

I am trying to figure which one is the hot, neutral and ground wire. The voltage detector beeps when brought close to the wires with red caps(one red cap has three wires going in and another a single wire) and doesn't when brought close to the wires with yellow cap (two wires going into the cap). Though I see sparks when opening the yellow cap (and lights nearby blink). Is it possible to tell with this information? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


texts:
I'm trying to paint my garage and noticed some gaps between the door casing and the drywall. Is there a way I can fill these so they appear flat?

Thinking of using some spray foam insulation for the larger gaps then shaving the excess down, and caulk for the smapler ones, not sure if this is the best approach.


texts: What different types of remotely controlled light switches exist?

texts:
I am looking to buy a remotely controlled light switch. What options are there? I do not want companies or brands or models or whatever. I am looking to buy light switches from which I can build my own personal controlling system. What types exist? Which are wired and which are wireless?

EDIT, with more info on what I mean
When I said I don't want brands or models I mean I do not people to my shopping. If you have an answer that also includes a brand or model it's ok. I put that part in my question so as to prevent brand-only answers. Now for the usage. For now I am trying to create a wall panel that will control the lights of my house, either wirelessly or wired, I do not know. In the future it might lead to home automation. But for now I just need to control them remotely. I just do not know from where to start.


texts: Transferring anchor locations from the wall to plywood

texts:
I need to attach two sheets of plywood to drywall. One in the closet to mount networking equipment and the other one overhead to mount climbing training board. The closet one does not have to be as sturdy, but I intend to use it as a test for the mounting process.

My walls have narrowly spaced steel studs. I plan to use toggler snaptoggle anchors, carefully locate the studs and install anchors right into them.

The next step puzzles me: how do I reliably transfer anchor locations from the wall to the plywood to drill bolt holes?

I was thinking of employing some sort of coordinate transfer method with a ruler, but I’m not sure it will be precise enough (in my execution).

If I didn’t have to choose anchor location carefully, I’d just drill through the plywood & the wall and would get perfectly matching holes. What to do if anchor are pre-installed?


texts: Can I install a hot water circulator pump without using the drain valve?

texts:
We just replaced our hot water heater because we were getting a lot of mineral deposits in our fixtures throughout the house because the hot water loop returned to the bottom of the tank and always mixed up the sediment in the tank.  Our plumber is trying to install a recirculation pump without using the drain valve (at the bottom of the tank) as the return for the loop.  He is trying to explain to me how putting a pump in different places can circulate the hot water through the house and back into the hot water heater.  Is this even possible?

Here is the current setup, which isn't really working.  Inconsistent water temperatures, and some times little to no hot water.

https://cloud.smartdraw.com/share.aspx/?pubDocShare=A6EDE21171FE47F6804B860EA95206D10BC

Thanks for your help!!


texts: What is the best/cheapest solution for poorly plastered walls?

texts: My house is about 50 years old and many of the walls are plaster.  If done nicely I would consider this a plus but it looks like my house was plastered/painted by a a 2nd grade art class.  I don't have the money to get it professionally plastered so I ask;  What is the best way to smooth them out?  Can I sand them?  Is it possible to cover them with drywall?


texts: Is it possible to anchor a cabinet to a wall without damaging it?

texts:
I have purchased an approx 2m high by 35cm deep dispay cabinet seated on a carpet floor. This is not fully stable (the cabinet rocks a bit when you exert force on the doors to open them), and it was suggested to me that we anchor the cabinet to the wall using some L-shaped brackets.

I'd like to stabilize the cabinet but would ideally not like to drill holes in the wall or cabinet. If this isn't possible, I'd like to minimize the damage to the wall to avoid having to re-paint the entire wall when we eventually move to another house.

We aren't in an earthquake-prone area so I'm not trying to attempt a rock solid load-bearing fastening... Just something to keep the cabinet in place when the doors are opened and closed. I had an idea of using something like 3m command strips or some kind of glue-based solution but really have idea if this would be possible.


texts: How do I put up shelving that won't sag?

texts: What is the best way to put up a single shelf at top of wall to go all the way around the room for books


texts: Why does my bathroom door make a cracking sound when opening it?

texts:
My bathroom door makes a cracking sound whenever I open it.

When the screws are tight against the hinges, it makes the cracking sound when I open the door.

But when I loosen each screw, the cracking sound stops.

Is there a better solution than just loosening the screws?


texts: How do I add a "c" wire to the boiler for a Nest thermostat?

texts:
I have a Lennox wall mounted boiler (gwm 075ie), I am trying to connect a "c" wire so I can install nest thermostats. I have 3 zones, currently running 2 wires (r&w). There is an extra wire behind each thermostat, that runs down close to the boiler, none of those wires are connected to anything. My current transformer is rated at 40va.
Unsure of the best way to do this. I have taco valves (z075c2-1) each valve has a "c" connector. Could I just run a wire to each of those connectors to the thermostat? Is the transformer able to handle 3 zones and 3 smart thermostats? Taco says a 40va transformer can run 12 valves.


texts: How far can #12 wire be run without voltage drop becoming a problem?

texts:
I want to run some 12/2 wire nm-b to my shed in some conduit about 25ft long to some 20a receptacles with a 20a light switch, I know about the switch being 20a but I like it to meet the wire specifications

My question comes down to, how long can I run 12/2 wire without it losing current through distance. I'm running a medium 28 gallon compressor and a table saw, miter saw, etc., not all at the same time but you know what I'm thinking.


texts:
I have a wine refrigerator that has shelves for wine bottles - image on this question.

I want to use this refrigerator and its shelves as a regular refrigerator. So I need to put something on the shelf to make it flat so it can hold anything. The inner (usable) part of this shelf is 23" x 17".

At its simplest I think could have some 1/4" plywood cut to those dimensions and simply put them on top.

However this doesn't feel like the correct solution to me. How would I best convert these shelves to a flat surface that can hold any shaped item like a regular refrigerator?


texts: is it safe to remove soil from basement footing?

texts: I'm planning to renovate my basement so that I can use it as additional storage room and access for internal stairs. My basement is half concrete and half soil covered. I'd like convert the soil area to concrete so it will be cleaner and bright. I've got a question around the basement footings as I noticed they're covered with soil that's fenced around them. Is it safe to remove the soil around the footings ? does the soil provides additional protection to the footing? what can I do if I want to tidy my basement and also still maintain the integrity of the footings?


texts: What kind of subfloor do most people use these days?

texts:
I've been reading tons on how to do a subfloor for my basement and I don't seem to be getting any closer to an answer.  So far it looks like there are 4 ways to do this: (I'm stealing a good part of Chris Jaynes answer from Should I use a subfloor for a finished basement's floor?).

Additional concerns that I have are that I want to put in cabinets with a peninsula. According to This thread, cabinets shouldn't be installed on floating floors.

And then of course, there's this problem of what to do with the existing steps.

It should be mentioned too that I'll have an unfinished portion of the basement (maybe 25%), so not sure how that affects different solutions.

The Old Fashioned (6mil + sleepers + plywood)

PROS

Tried and true method

CONS

No insulation - cold.  Nails penetrate barrier and allow the moisture in, causing mold down the road.

XPS foam insulation under 5/8" plywood subfloor (Mike Holmes / BSC recomended)

PROS

Cheap
Good R-value to provide insulation from cold.
Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor

CONS

Opinions vary about how long the foam will last before breaking down
Installation instructions vary wildly (some anchor directly to floor, others anchor through wood bracing, etc.)

Opinions vary about how much air circulation the foam would allow

1" XPS + 2x4 Sleeper + 5/8" plywood = 3 1/8" sub-floor

DRIcore-style subfloor tiles

PROS

Dimpled underside allows excellent air circulation over concrete
Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
Most come in 2'x2' tiles so there are no 4'x8' sheets to lug around
Easy install, much like a "floating" hardwood floor
Nothing anchored into the concrete (except maybe interior walls??)

CONS

Most expensive option
Installation calls for 1/4" gap at the edges to vent.  This would vent the moisture into the wall cavity (that can't be good) if you have unfinished walls, or you are supposed to leave at least a 1/8" gap in your trim to allow it to vent into room.  I have issues with this:

If you leave a 1/8" gap then your baseboard isn't nailed into anything but the drywall
You have an ugly gap under your quarter round
Dust and whatnot can (and will) get pushed/sucked under the floor where it is moist, causing future problems

Platon/Delta-FL underlayment under 5/8" plywood subfloor

PROS

Dimpled underside allows excellent air circulation over concrete
Feels almost as warm and soft as a regular subfloor
Much cheaper than the DRIcore tiles, because the Platon is purchased separately in large rolls

CONS

More difficult to install than probably any other option
4'x8' plywood subfloor is no fun to lug around
Requires the subfloor to be anchored to the concrete
Many people complain of "clicking" noise.


texts: How to repair holes in concrete driveway?

texts: I have a concrete driveway that is chipping.  Is there any good options to fill these chipped areas?


texts:
My refrigerator recently started getting to warm.
We blew out the condenser coils and refrigerator section is working ok but freezer will not get below 18 degrees Fahrenheit.
Also there is  a loud clunking, rattling noise when fridge is moved sideways. This sounds like it may be  the compressor  bounding around.


texts: Dishwasher plug blocking disposal outlet

texts:
I'm a beginner, so keep that in mind...
My house has the dishwasher and disposal plugged in under the sink, where the bottom outlet is hooked to the disposal switch. I've heard it isn't generally ideal to have both on the same outlet, but that's how the builders did it.
I just replaced the dishwasher, and the installation kit included a power cable with a right angle connection. Since the bottom outlet is on a switch, I have to use the top outlet, which blocks the bottom.
I realized this of course after I completed all the hookups and I really don't feel like taking the whole thing apart again.
The solutions I can think of are:

Re-wire the outlet so the top one is on the switch instead of the bottom one. Is this even possible, and if so, considering I've never done it before and it's under the kitchen sink without much room, how hard would this be?

Put the dishwasher in the switch outlet, and tape the switch permanently on. Put a smart plug between the disposal plug and the wall, so I can control the disposal with my cell phone.

Put the dishwasher on an extension cord. I've read this is a really bad idea, but are there particular extension cords that would make this safe?

Cut the cord and put a new end on it. I've never done this, so is this difficult or dangerous?

What are the ups and downs of these?


texts: Repairing a broken screw hole on a plastic junction ceiling box?

texts:
One of the screw holes on a junction box on my ceiling has fallen apart, leaving a hole that is too big to fix a screw into (see top of picture). As a result, I cannot hang my smoke detector from the junction box, since the detector hangs from the heads of the screws.

I was trying to see if there was something I could fill the hole with to then make a new hole for the screw. This would save me the cost and hassle of having the box replaced, which I assume would require cutting into the ceiling (the box seems to be affixed to a brace above the ceiling that runs between two joists, since all I see is the head of a bolt at the top of the box and no nail heads anywhere). Any thoughts on what I could do here?

Thanks


texts: Light bulb burning problem on a two lights luminaire

texts:
I'll ask owner for an electrician, but we have a weird issue with one of our luminaire in our apartment.
It's a two bulbs luminaire and since a year or so, we've change bulb in it like... 5 times maybe. It was LED bulbs because you know, 2018. So after asking some people, they told me that maybe our lights switch does not support LED bulb. So, we put normal bulbs in, guess what, two bulbs burn in two weeks. Bulbs literally burnt (it was all black in it every time) but it's always only one bulb and it seems to be always the same side.
So I bought few other bulbs, changed the luminaire for a new one too and installed it to finally put newly bought bulbs in... guess what happened again? I've change my third globes again in 2 months. And still same result; bulb get almost pitch black with a metallic reflect.
What can it be?
Is there something else I can test on my own?
Because our appartment owner is not really on our side when comes time to take money out.
EDIT
Here is an image a power board similar to ours (not mine) but pretty similar (took in Google). Consider that ours is much more messier than that tho.


texts: Once when a bathroom sink drain is cleared so that it drains properly, would that also take care of the sink overflow slots at the top??


texts: How do I identify the C terminal on my HVAC?

texts:
How do I identify the C terminal on an HVAC, furnace, or boiler? If the terminals don't have a screw labeled C what should I look for on the wiring diagram? What steps should I take if a wiring diagram cannot be found or if it indicates that a C terminal doesn't exist?

Note: This is an extension to How can I add a “C” wire to my thermostat which asks about running the wires through the wall. This question is about where to connect the wire at the HVAC.


texts: Old home, is this asbestos in the attic?

texts: House was built in the 40s and moved in the 70s, no idea if it was reinsulated or not after being moved


texts: Electric water heater leaks around the top, how do I fix it?

texts:
My water heater is leaking from the top around the copper fittings.  It seems to be filled to capacity.

Will adjusting my pressure relief valve stop my water heater from leaking? I turned the main water valve off. I also opened the faucet near bottom of tank to drain.


texts: My sewer pipe makes a huge noise when flushed. Can that damage the pipe?

texts:
The sewer pipe on my building makes a huge noise whenever someone flushes the toilet.
Apparently there is not enough air input in the pipe and whenever someone flushes the toilet this causes vacuum and noise.
I assume that with the noise there is also vibration. Can this cause  permanaent damage on the pipe?


texts: Can I wash and continue to use dishes that were in a sink with a brush used for varnishing?

texts:
A brush used with varnish has been put into a sink, full of water with dishes.
The dishes have not come into contact directly with the varnish, but with the varnish diluted in water. Is throwing all away too drastic? Is it enough to wash them normally? Should I wash them with white spirit?

I don't know much about the varnish, just that it's white varnish for wood/metal.


texts: Where to install an atmosphereic vacuum breaker for my fire pit spigot

texts:
I installed an underground water supply to a hose spigot near my fire pit on my property, and I'm trying to determine where to install the vacuum breaker.  I understand it needs to be installed at the highest point, and since my property slopes uphill toward the fire pit and the spigot rises out of the ground on a post, the highest point would be at the spigot itself.  That's where I should install it, correct?  I was initially thinking the vacuum breaker needs to be where the copper pipe exits the home where it transitions to a polyethylene pipe because I thought that water held in the poly pipe might be the kind that I wouldn't want to back-flow if a siphon were to form.  However, that would mean I'd need to route the plumbing at that point so it juts out of the ground higher than the elevation of my fire pit spigot, i.e. 5 or 6 feet, which would look ridiculous.

Can someone please confirm or correct my thinking on this?


texts: How can I make prepasted wallpaper stick better?

texts:
We bought some roles of prepasted wallpaper to use as a border in a nursery. This was our first time ever putting up any sort of wallpaper; I don't think we did it exactly right (I don't think we got the paper wet enough before sticking it to the wall in some spots).

After it dried, we were actually pretty pleased with the results but noticed a couple of places where the edges don't stick like they should. Some of these spots don't look too bad, but I'm worried they'll get worse over the next several years if I don't address them.

Can we just "paint" them with water and re-press the spots that aren't sticking?

I added some pictures below - sorry they're so large, I don't know how to resize them on here.


texts: I bought this house about a year ago, it was built in 2003. Since I bought, I noticed a large-ish crack forming in it. Can I just tap this in with a hammer and use some resin, or is there a better way to do it?


texts: I'm going to need access to the attic area of my house to run some cables. The current access is in a closet on the opposite end of the house; getting up there is a bit of a pain, and then I would have to traverse the length of the house by hopping from truss to truss. I'm thinking about adding an attic access in the garage to make things easier. Is there any reason (building code, security, ???) not to add an attic access in the garage?


texts: Green grass streaks over septic tank field

texts:
I've noticed in my yard where the septic tank is that there are two rows of green streaks of grass going in a single direction for about 20 yards or so.
Is this a sign for concern or normal for a septic field?
Thanks for any advice on this issue.
– Mike


texts: Substituting lumber sizes for ground contact bridge sill and ease of handling for one person

texts:
I'm building a small bridge over a creek on my property and using some forest service plans which recommend 8x8 ground contact lumber kept in place by earth anchors for the sills that the bridge stringers rest on.  It's not out of the budget to use the 8x8s, but to move them in place might be a little difficult with the machinery I have access to (basically none).  If the main force on these is a downward pressure, could I substitute four 2x8s stacked and attached together at bridge site?  The only concern I could think of would be water penetrating between the boards and causing them to decay faster.

Edit: the 8x8 (or built up beam) would be fully laying (lying? ) on a solid bed of compacted gravel (or concrete) and anchored using a duckbill anchor. Since none of this is suspended in air, I don't think deflection of the beam is a concern.  However, it's possible that it'll be completely submerged in water at flood stage, which happens 1-2 times per year and lasts for less than a day.

Edit #2

Here is a link to the page with the plans I'm using with some modification (just adding railings and using more stringers).  https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm12232316/.

Below is an image that illustrates the sill.  In this image, they have a heavy duty parking curb, (which is a possibility to use but those things are heavy and I don't have easy access to a machine to easily move them), but they specify that an 8x8 pressure treated southern pine could be used.

I do understand that a laminated beam spanning an opening should be vertical boards, but in this case, I thought the horizontal stacked approach might be ok and just make it a little easier to handle it as I do it myself.

Thanks!


texts: Where should I discharge my bathroom exhaust to?

texts: Everyone in general lean towards roof or gable end of house venting. Then of these two whichever is shortest run..Also everyone agrees down hill slope toward exterior of house..If one is to vent through the roof no house could accomplish this. The slope would inevitably point back to the ceiling. My house has two baths on the front side of house..Currently they vent to the front side of soffit..If I vented them both to the Gable 18ft of pipe would be needed. If vented through the roof 13ft would be needed to get to the back side of the ridge vent..Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: Electrical problem - loss of power to fixture and outlet

texts: Hot to ground and neutral to ground read 120 V. Hot to neutral 0 V. This is a portion of a circuit that appears to be at the end of the wiring. An overhead light/fan and one duplex outlet are not working and show the above readings. Everything else on that circuit appears to be working properly, with voltage between hot and neutral and hot and ground 120 V and 0 V neutral to ground. That portion was working until a few days ago.


texts: Techniques for Squarely Cutting the End of a PVC Pipe

texts:
I am replacing a floor drain which required me to saw off the old drain which was cemented to 4" schedule 40 PVC.  I had limited room to do this (Please see the picture below; I had broken out the concrete and gravel/earth around the drain), so I used a Dremel with a plastic cutting blade to cut from the inside of the pipe, leaving a slightly jagged pipe end.  The new drain has a hub connection that fits over the end of the pipe I've cut.  I've read that the end of the pipe should be as square as possible to maximize the quality of the hub connection.  Right now the cut isn't square and I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make it square.  As such, I have a few questions in one here, because I'm not sure what my options are.

How important is the squareness?  If one side is off by a third of an inch or so, will this really matter once the hub connection is solvent cemented onto the pipe, considering there will still be a couple of inches or so of bonding surface?
If the squareness is important, what are some good ways to cut the pipe, seeing as I have very limited room to work with it from the sides?

I have considered sanding/grinding from above until the edge is level.  Would the PVC dust be dangerous if I were applying suction from a shop vac (with a HEPA filter and dust bag) and wearing a respirator?
I had hopes there would be a tool that could be placed over the end of a 4" pipe and turned to make a squared-off cut.  Does any such tool exist?  Is there anything at all that can squarely cut 4" pipe without needing much room at the sides of the pipe?


texts: How can I keep a door open wide enough for my cat to get through but not my big dog?

texts:
I need a 'safe room' for my cat to go in to use the litter box away from the dog, who thinks it contains treats.  I need the door the stay open a few inches without my Labrador Retriever having the ability to enter the room.  She is Houdini so it needs to be something she can't push open.

Any suggestions?


texts: How do I increase flame size in my outdoor fire pit?

texts:
We have a built-in gas fire pit in our backyard and it all works but the maximum flame is doesn't provide enough warmth when I crank the valve to its max setting.
I've tried pulling off the knob but I have not tried unscrewing anything or using tools yet.
Do I need to remove the screws?
Do I need to shut off the gas to the entire house first?


texts: How should I caulk aluminum capping where it meets brick?

texts:
We recently bought a 16 year old house that has aluminum capping over the trim around the garage doors. The gap between the aluminum and the brickwork (and the wood behind the aluminum) is large enough that you can see light leaking through and feel the cold air blowing through. I would like to caulk this to keep out the cold/heat, moisture, and pests (of which we get a lot) but I'm questioning why it was never done in the first place. So, a few questions:

Is there any reason you wouldn't want to caulk these joints?
If caulking is acceptable/recommended:

What type of caulk would be most appropriate? I'm guessing silicon?
Should the caulk be placed between (sandwiched) between the aluminium and brick, or just around the perimeter (meaning, should it have been placed during installation, or can I apply from the outside as usual)?
Is there anything else I should know before undertaking this task?

For reference, here's what it looks like:


texts: Why doesn't my furnace start? Pilot Light ignites and continuous clicking

texts:
Why doesn't my furnace start?

Pilot Light ignites up and continuous clicking.

Video: https://streamable.com/i0av0

I was reading this question: gas furnace pilot light is lit,,won't produce heat, making a clicking sound,,,

And wasn't quite sure what the answer was referring to that I had to clean.

Any help would be wonderful.


texts: Propane appliances throwing orange flames suddenly and generator's back firing

texts:
So here's the deal: about 1.5 to 2 weeks ago, our generator started backfiring like crazy and our cookstove, water heater and heater are throwing yellow orange flames intermittently as well as producing soot blackening the ceiling and range hood.

We did call the propane company, and they have been out 3 times and changed both regulators, which didn't fix anything.

The symptoms appear to happen about 10 to 15 minutes after running each appliance. They start up fine and run fine until about this point.

The propane company now wants to do warranty work on each of my appliances and have me call the appliance company to get them fixed under warranty. They also told me that they think the generator is a separate issue. The problem I am having is that all four malfunction at the same time.

I'm really frustrated and have not broken down and called the appliance companies, since I feel it's unfair and not an issue with any individual unit.

Any recommendations on what I should look at? We're avid DIYers living off the grid.

The heater is approximately 3.5 months old
The cookstove is approximately 3 months old
The water heater is probably 20 years old but was serviced only 3 months ago and working fine
The generator is 18 years old but has been recently serviced as well and working fine up until the day everything started malfunctioning.

We rely on our generator for water and showers and run it once a day for one hour.  During this time we fill up all our water, take showers, do laundry and do dishes as well as charge our batteries.

I'm generally not an online / forum type person but I am at my wit's end!

Thanks!

Here's a quick photo of the stove burners.  Also it may be helpful to know we're running on a 500 gallon propane tank which is showing 70%.


texts: Attaching outdoor Ethernet cable to stucco?

texts: I need to route the Gigabit Ethernet CAT6 cable on the outside wall. The cable is certified for outdoor use, but I'm puzzled how to attach it to stucco. Would I need to drill stucco with masonry bit and use something like that: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Cable-Clips-Stucco-Surfaces/dp/B009XGON8W or there is a way to do it without drilling? Can it be glued to stucco?


texts: When to turn on the water for my washing machine?

texts:
I recently moved into an apartment which has, separate from the sink, a faucet that looks like this: .
(The water flow begins when the handle is turned counter clockwise)

I'm a beginner in home repairs, but that looked like a washing machine hook-up to me (local washing machines use only cold water), so I bought a used machine and the necessary connection tubing from the hardware store to allow for water flow in to clean the clothes and for drainage out.

(Everything connected great, and the washing machine is running an empty cycle now with a little vinegar to clean out the smell of unused washer, and so far, everything seems to be working....)

BUT:
I tried searching online for instructions on when to open the water valve and when to shut it, but I think I'm using the wrong keywords. The faucet is only used for the washing machine and has no impact on the sink's water.
I'm using a top-loading European machine (Crystal, Super Lord A class). How do I know when the machine's full of water enough to do its job so that I can turn the water off to avoid waste and flooding? Do I leave it on in a drizzle? Shut it off after a few minutes to fill? Turn it on and off as the cycle goes?

Thanks for any suggestions and tips that you may have!


texts: Can i hang a wall-cupboard on my single brick wall which is about 3*6 ft? Actually i want to make some cupboard on upper side of the wall, so can i? These would be efficient or not?


texts: 12' sliding door frame shimmed up against header and sagging at point where shimmed

texts:
I have a sliding door with glass panels on each side, spanning a width of 12 feet.  The door has been sagging in the middle. It slides easily at the edge (when open), but drags near the center. I tore off the siding and flashing above the frame outside and found 2 1-inch wide shims between the header and the door frame right in the center of the door (shims lying on top of each other filling the approximate 1/4 inch gap)
It looks like the pinch in the slide is exactly at this point.  To my eyes, it seems that the header is putting its weight on those shims, pushing down on the frame.
A few questions:

Can I remove those shims? I cannot imagine that the 12' header was suppose to be supported by either the shims or the frame, so I think that I can do so safely.

Those shims are pinched pretty good... how do I remove them?  I could reach a saw blade in and just chip them out I suppose...

Should I be worried about the sag?  The house is 32 years old and with those shims any sag would be immediately felt by the door frame, so I can confirm the sag isn't that much since the door can still open and close.

Thanks very much for any help!  This is outside my normal DIY home repairs and experience, so any advice would be appreciated!


texts: Can I seal my bath overflow waste with silicon, from the inside?

texts:
We have a freestanding bath https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-harrison-freestanding-bath-1790-x-810

Unfortunately, we cannot gain access to the underside and when it drains water is leaking through the ceiling.

This began when the bath was overfilled and water ran down the overflow seemingly draining into the floor/ceiling. Since then when water naturally flows through the plug it appears to be flowing back into the overflow pipe and into the ceiling.

What would be the best product to inject down the plug into the overflow pipe? Silicon? Or expandable foam? Would sealing the pipe from the inside work?


texts: Airbrush-size airless sprayer for painting interior trim?

texts: I have a lot of detailed interior trim to paint with latex enamel paint. It’s a pain to paint with brushes or small rollers and it seems like it would be so much easier to use a very small airless paint sprayer, like a small airbrush sort of thing. I can’t seem to find something that small though that could be used for this application. Is there such a tool?


texts: Replacing Crestron switches with standard switches

texts: We bought a house that has a Crestron system and it's been unbearable with lights frequently not working, coming on as if by magic, etc. We had a Crestron installer look at the system and $400 later after "reprogramming" we're still having the same problems. I'd like to consider replacing every Crestron switch in the house with standards. There are hot and neutral wires in all the boxes I've opened. How would standard switches be wired in this situation?


texts: I'm putting up a plywood wall in my garage workshop and have some unsightly seams; 1/8" or less gaps except around floor where I plan on installing baseboard anyway.  I've had to cut smaller segments of plywood to work around some workbenches installed by the previous owner so there's vertical and horizontal seams, if that matters.  I plan on painting the wall when finished but wondering what would be best to use to fill in/cover the seams before painting.


texts:
When wiring a room, it is customary to provide a central hub near the door, where all the wire joints occur.

Which is nice, but is still a nest of snakes to find out which is which in case of a problem. What I would immagine to be a cleaner solution, is a box with cover. When opened, it reveals joints, labels and ratings. An awesomely drawn sketch:

I am asking for either references to an existing device to facilite such setup, or reasons why that is a silly idea.


texts:
I’ve seen this used in many awnings, but I don’t know what they’re called.

So a few questions:

What’s the name of this part?

Can they be bought separately or are they only sold in kits?


texts: How can I match an existing stain color on exterior shutters? The bottom half has been faded by sprinkler hitting them

texts: Two of my 14 shutters have water damage on the lower half. I want to sand the bottom half and re-stain and seal these two but do not know the color originally applied. Is there a way to color match without removing the shutters and carrying them to the paint store?


texts: Bubbles appearing on middle aged painted drywall

texts: At my in-laws, we recently noticed the basement bedroom ceiling had these bumps next to an exterior wall above a window. It's not wet or damp, and they haven't had any known leaks. The bumps look like dripping wet paint, but it's over twenty years since it's last painting. They are hard and dry. Has anyone seen anything like this?


texts: Leak from the pipe in the basement that connects to kitchen sink

texts:
Everytime kitchen sink water is used it leaks through in the basement (shown in the picture below). I wonder if that can be fixed by applying silicon around or it's something bigger of an issue that might require professional.

Update 1
I followed up on suggestions from feedback and confirmed that it's leaking from the original place. Also tried putting pressure on the pipe to see if water can leak more. When applying pressure like this (see the second picture attached) the leak stops. That might mean that there is crack in the pipe? Silicon can be a solution albeit temporary one, right?


texts:
What are the individual names of these nine different PVC fittings?

(source: pvcworkshop.com)


texts: Are there any advantages to using metal post spikes set in concrete when building a privacy fence?

texts:
My neighbor and I are considering alternatives to wood-in-concrete fence posts for a privacy fence that can have significant wind load in an area that gets up to -30 degree frosts in winter. The biggest drawback with wood-in-concrete posts is that the wood rots in the concrete.

He has a metal post spike that looks like this:

He is thinking we can set them in concrete, as it should last longer and should be easy to level. The spike part has the advantage that the wood is not in contact with the ground (or concrete) and has a chance to dry. Also, it's easier to change the wooden post eventually.

The disadvantage with the spikes is that they normally are sledge-hammered into the ground, and according to this account, it's tough to get them leveled this way. The wooden posts are shorter, but the spikes cost more than the length of the post that's saved (overall it's more expensive with spikes).

What other pros/cons do you see in this approach?


texts: What imperial machine screw has a diameter of 4.5mm and a thread pitch of ~1mm?

texts: I lost one of the screws of my grandpa's rocking chair. I live in Germany and cannot figure out which kind of nefarious imperial screw this is. According to my measurements, the diameter is exactly 4.5 mm and the length (head included) 30 mm. However, this is not M4.5. I measured a thread pitch of 1.04 mm which arguably results in a thread density of 24 TPI (threads per inch). I assumed it was something like #9-24 UNC but those screws do not seem to exist (at least Wikipedia does not mention them and none of the retailers specialized in imperial screws have them). Do they exist in the US?


texts: Floor heat cables under linoleum flooring?

texts:
everyone.

Is it possible to lay heat cables on a bathroom floor before I lay down linoleum. We would like to help create some warmth in the winter. Given our current situation I don't think it's feasible to lay real tile which is what typically can go over heat cables. But is it possible and effective to lay heat cables under linoleum to help make the floor warmer in the wintertime?

Thanks.