texts: Adding a "C" wire for a wireless theromstat

texts: I have a heat only system with two wires leading to the thermostat - red and white - and am wanting to add a wireless thermostat.  The new thermostat however requires a "C" wire.  Can I add a C wire?


texts: How can I clean sticky and dirty hand tool's rubber?

texts:
I have a hand tool - Needle-nose plier that had a rubber that is used as the handle. Currently, I managed to clean up all the rust on the metal and would like to clean up the rubber handle as it is sticky and dirty.

Should I use baking soda mixed with a little water as a paste to clean up the rubber handle or should I buy a new rubber to replace that old rubber?


texts: How can I prevent the lines from showing through when painting paneling?

texts:
We put two coats of mud in cracks of paneling, then we primed it.
Then we put two coats of Ultra Behr paint and the lines are still coming through


texts: Switching downspouts to the other end of a gutter

texts: What kind of accessories are available for switching the downspouts to the other end of the gutter? I'm not as concerned about the downspouts themselves as much as the connection to the gutter. I'm assuming I'm going to need to patch the connection to the old location and then cut a new hole in the other end. The gutters are metal and the downspouts are rectangular.


texts:
I've been trying to unscrew off this showerhead. I've tried two things but neither have worked. I just want to check with the DIY community before I break something drastic.

[Red area] I've twisted this area counterclockwise but I don't think it has had any effect. I think it's just a ball and socket that allows the showerhead to be aimed.

[Blue area] I've also tried to rotate this part but it doesn't turn. I suspect I may need to get a wrench to do it.

My question is are there any other possible ways to remove that showerhead or is #2 the most likely course of action?


texts:
This is more a DIY question than a home improvement one but I can't seem to find a beter place to ask:

I'm looking for small diameter metal tubing, specifically 0.159 ID, ~3/16 OD (the inside diameter is the critical dimension) in stainless steel or steel (or if anyone make it, any grade of Titanium).

Anyone know a a source?

Just to clarify, I'm not looking for a walk up retail source (I'd be slightly surprised if one could be found). Rather I'm looking for a supplier I can place an order with that will ship stuff to me. Also, the question is emphatically not "Where can I get the best price?" My quantities are so small that if price is an issue, the project gets canned.

A little background: A while back, I found that the ink tube out of a cheap Bic pen fits nicely in 0.159" ID tubing and that with a little cutting and capping, I could make a pen that fits nicely in a business card holder to make a great little note set. The problem is that thin walled aluminum tube isn't stiff enough to not bend when sat on so I'm looking for something stronger.

Heres the final product:


texts: I have a string of lights above a tv that are controlled by a switch. But, the switch also controls a few other things. I cannot leave the switch in the on position as I do not want the lights on all the time but I would like outlets to continuously run. I bought a relay receiver and it seems pretty straight forward. I just want to establish the how to.


texts: I recently moved into a new place which has two floors. It is heated with hot water and the heater gas-powered heater is in the lower floor. There are two radiators in the upper floor that stay ice-cold, while one, in another room also upstairs is warm. I am unsure if the problem is just a failure to properly turn them on or something else. The two cold radiators are different from the others in that they don't have knob to turn them on. I have attached a picture of what it looks like. There are two pipes connected to them but they are also always cold, and vanish into the wall. I called the previous owner who built the whole place but he is very old and doesn't remember anything about it. How do I start diagnosing what's wrong?


texts: I've read the posts regarding no neutral line on a 240v circuit, this was my situation, had a new cooktop installed as a replacement, the electrician connected the black and red line from the cooktop to each of the blacks coming from the panel. He then took the neutral and ground from the cooktop and connected to the ground from the panel. Had never seen this before, was this correct ?


texts: Could R-11 Sound Batt have a large impact on reducing sound

texts:
QUESTION: will Owens Corning R-11 EcoTouch PINK Unfaced Fiberglass Sound Attenuation Insulation Batt help significantly with the sound transmission?

I live in town homes, so they are 2 story units side by side. Upstairs are the bedrooms while downstairs are the living room, dining room, kitchen and a 1/2 bath. My neighbor has decided to place his bed in his living room and sleeps in complete silence throughout the day and night. That means my living room is next to his living room/bedroom. I have an exercise machine (Bowflex M5). I workout 30 - 45 minutes a day on it. When I work out there is a faint sound that makes it through to his unit. The sound is half as loud as if you where to lightly touching your hands together and rubbing them lightly.

The walls between units have a 1/2 dead space in between. They consist of studs, plywood, R25 insulation and 2 layers of drywall.

The 1st floor is raised 27 inches on pillions.

So far I have placed 2 sets of 4 Camco Olympian Aluminum Stack Jacks. Which completely canceled out any of the impact sound that used to accompany the swooshing sound and they reduced the over all sound that was transmitted by 70%.

Someone said that the Owens Corning R-11 Sound Batt would really help with the sound transmission, but I always like to get advice from more than one source. This is especially true because I don't want to throw away $600 if it isn't going to work. On a raised 1st floor will this product help significantly reduce sound to the neighbor 1st floor area if I place it between the floor joists?

Thank you for your time and I look forward to your answers!


texts: Should I avoid working on my newly installed patio stones?

texts:
I am going to install a brick patio using basic patio stones, and then I'm going to build a fence around it.   Which should I do first?

More details
The fence will be wooden with 4x4 posts every 6' that are concreted in. The fence is going to be 8' tall; it's actually a privacy fence around the patio.

The patio will be made from basic 12"x 12" x 1.7" patio stones. I'm going to do it the right way (as best I can): 4" sub-base, then 1" sand, no space between the stones, use nice edging, finish with the polymeric sand on top (for what little spaces may be there).

My concern
I build the patio first, it's beautiful and strong. But then I build the fence around it, and all that foot traffic on it, especially on the edges, somehow damages the new patio.

Current plan
1. Install posts
2. Lay sub-base
3. Build fence
4. Re-compact the sub-base (now that I tripped on it for a few days building a fence) (annoying since I already did this)
5. Install patio stones
6. Enjoy.

But if what I'm afraid of is silly - that working on a patio that was installed correctly would be damaged by walking on it while working - then please tell me.

I guess another way to ask the question is, what would you do?


texts: What is the use the plugs over this deadbolt's bolt holes?

texts: When re-keying our house, I came upon these unexpected bolt hole plugs in the deadbolt assembly. Is there a graceful way to remove them? I'd prefer not to take a small prying tool and force them out, to avoid marring the assembly, and I'd like to avoid drilling them out for sure.


texts: What is this thing that holds in a storm window called?

texts:
I would like to replace these things that hold in storm windows on a 80 year old house but I do not know what they are called, so I am having difficulty looking them up to buy more.  What is the piece that toggles called?

It turns rotates and when it is horizontal it holds a storm window in place.  When it is vertical the storm window can be removed.


texts: What can I do to make my galvanized steel shed stronger?

texts:
Here are my specs so far for the shed I am getting made. I plan to use it as a shed for my very large tools.

It is 40 ft × 24 ft, with 11 ft high walls. It is made from galvanized steel  while the walls and roof are something like this photo.

This is what I have done to help protect it from hurricanes and increase the survival chances.

I have made a strong concrete foundation that can handle 5 tons of tools and machines.
I plan to screw the galvanized steel to the foundation.
I plan to add shatter-proof windows and doors.
Studies have shown that certain home shapes and roof types can better resist high winds and hurricanes, according to new research. I can share a link if you want. In the research it says that a gable roof with a 30° slope would be a good idea.

What can I do to make it stronger and what have I missed?


texts: Kind of contractor to hire to install new basement window, where there was none before?

texts:
A family member is interested in getting their basement finished, and one of the things they'd like to do is have an additional bedroom in the basement.  The bedroom should have a window.  However, the basement doesn't have a window in the area most desired for the bedroom location.

What kind of contractor should be hired to install a new basement window where there wasn't one before? i.e. this is not replacing a window, but creating one where there used to be concrete, brick, etc.

The window people spoken to supply and install windows but won't do the harder parts.

It sounds like foundation-related work to me, but it's not installing or repairing foundation, rather modifying some foundation, removing bricks, installing a lintel, a window well, correct drainage?

Essentially, we're not sure where to start looking in the phone book!  Foundation people? Brick people? Other?


texts: What inspections/maintenance should be done before first air conditioning of summer?

texts:
I'm a typically handy guy who knows his limits.  I recently moved into a new house so am unfamiliar with the history of the equipment.

Before I switch the thermostat to A/C for the first time this year, I'd like to do visual inspection/maintenance on my A/C unit.  What is a list of things an HVAC company would check/do on a system with no apparent issues?

I would not check refrigerant levels myself because that's illegal here, but I would still like stuff like that included in an answer.


texts: Can I Use this fitting to connect CPVC tubing to a new shower valve

texts:
I am replacing a 30+ year old shower valve as part of a master bath remodel.  The existing shower valve has 1/2" NPT female ports (qty 4), with one port capped.  The new valve has 1/2" NPT male connections (qty 3).  I have these fittings in my possession:

I'm just wondering if these are acceptable for this application.

A local big box store also (supposedly) has these fittings available:

which do not have the nut and gasket.  Are they both allowed? Is one better than the other?

I'm in Gwinnett County Georgia, USA.


texts: Should crown molding go over stone fireplace?

texts:
I understand this is somewhat (design) subjective, but I have no reference to what is common practice when it comes to this type of application.
I'm going to be running (foam) crown molding with LED lighting around the top of the room, a couple of inches off the ceiling for the light, but the fireplace is in the corner. I was thinking I would just go over the top of it, but... now I'm not sure.

I've seen it without the LED lighting, but with lighting like that, should the molding go over stone?


texts: Does anyone know what this type of furnace/heater is called?

texts: I have this old style of heating but I cannot find any information on it. Can anyone help? It's gas and just sorta gets hot heating the house. No blower, no ducts, just the exhaust. The brand on the front says Quaker. It's old.


texts: electrical lightng earth wire and neutral wire the same colour

texts: i'm in the uk, and I've taken the wall lights off and the earth wire and the neutral are both black, how do I tell which is which. thank you john


texts:
We've got burners that flop between partially-lit states, mainly by starting like

after being on a while, switching to

sometimes some of them do this, and then we stop using them

What's going on?


texts: Ordering new windows for old house... Wall thickness?

texts:
I'm rehabbing a structure from the 1850's.  As you can imagine, nothing is square, level or plumb.  The walls were originally plaster on top of true 2x4's.

I've brought the house down to the studs, and am going back with exterior sheathing (0.5") on top of true 2x4's (4.0") plus drywall inside (0.5").
That gives me an actual wall thickness of 5.0".

That tells me I should order my new windows for a wall depth of 5.0"

Problem is, the walls are not straight or consistent.  Should I order windows with a little extra?  Like 5.5"?  I had experience doing this to my first house, which was also from the 1850's, and it took me forever to get the interior trim around the windows right.  I had to cut shims, and wedges, because the walls were wavy.  It was a huge pain.

Specifically: If my wall has a nominal thickness of 5.0", what is a sane amount of expected deviation?  Maybe 0.25"?  Should I order windows for a wall depth of 5.25" and just shim out the interior trim?


texts: Is there a way to safely have exposed electrical wires?

texts:
We have a dumpster on our property for another home project and are hoping to take advantage of this by disposing of some bathroom lights and a ceiling fan. However, we do not currently have a replacement for these items.

I don't believe turning the breaker off (and leaving off) is an option.

If I were to remove these lights and then cap off with wire nuts and electrical tape would that be a safe option or is this just asking for trouble?


texts: I have a significant loss of pressure coming out of the shower head, I have checked the shower head for obstructions and it is clear. none of the other faucets in the house have this problem. Any ideas what it could be.


texts: How to repair a bulged exterior door threshold?

texts:
A newly installed door has become very sticky at the bottom. Inspection shows the bottom portion of frame is bulging up. My guess is that the wood used to prop up the door threshold has swollen due to rain. Wood was a pressure treated type.  Or it could be foundation issue.
Should I remove the wood and use some other material?
How do I flatten the threshold  of the door?


texts: I want to install a 50 amp circuit breaker in the service entrance box and put the 4 wire 220 outlet for my welder right below the service entrance. I will be using a 50 ft extension to reach my welder when I use it. Is there any concerns with this type of installation? It is too difficult to run the heavy cable through the walls and over the ceiling to the location where my welder is located, but I don't use it that often. The service entrance is only about 3 ft off the floor next to the garage door and the entrance to the main house. Are there any potential issues with such an installation?


texts: Is it possible that no water running to one toilet could be from frozen pipes?

texts:
We've been in a cold snap for about a week with daily highs below -20C.  The water is not running to one toilet that is near an exterior wall.  To ensure it wasn't something in the tank, I detached the flexible hose from the tank that runs to the wall and no water is coming through there.
Is likely a frozen pipe?  What do I do now?

Update: We turned up the heat in the bathroom and the room below the bathroom and used a heat gun on the exposed part of the pipe extending from the wall.  Eventually it just started flowing again.  We'll keep an eye out for drips before cutting open the wall.


texts: Beam size and material for 15 feet long swing

texts:
I need to create a 15 feet span beam for kid swing (300 lbs load / 150 lbs and 2 swings assumption). One end will bolt to the tree (just for convenience).

What "treated lumber" lumber size and material I should use? Or is it better / cheaper to use metal pipe (from the plumbing department)?

I guess 4x8x16 or two (2) 2x8x16 would do it according to this website http://www.justanswer.com/structural-engineering/7vgxr-building-swing-set-16-ft-span-bolt-2x6.html. But I do like a clean look of metal. My wife would concern about big piece of lumber running on top of the kid (that looks heavy visually).


texts: Could a frozen dishwasher line have ruined something?

texts: I had a frozen pipe under my kitchen sink and was able to get the hot water moving with a hair dryer but the dishwasher also has a frozen pipe.  I was able to warm that up and get that going, but when I ran my washer, it filled up with water and spilled out all over the place.  I shut off the water and got everything cleaned up and the water stopped running.  after all of that, I turned the water back on and it was pouring out into my basement.  did the freezing ruin something?


texts: Can I run my 40 Amp Range Stove partially on a 30 Amp generator

texts:
I plan to buy a 7500/9500 Watt generator with a L14-30 hookup, rated for 30Amps.
The breaker for my Stove Range is a 40 Amp. I don't know the actual Amps required by my Stove; it's not in the manual and the model# must be stuck behind the Range which I can't move.
However, I would assume that if I only use part of my Stove Range, such as one or two plates only, it shouldn't overload the circuit and should work just fine with no problems? I imagine it would only need 40 Amps if all four plates were on along with the Oven?


texts: Best Way to Heat a Ductless Multi-Level Home

texts:
I just bought a home and it desperately needs an update to its heating. It currently has baseboard electric resistance heaters in every room. There is no duct-work in the house. We're in cold humid climate with expensive electricity (Ottawa, ON, Canada). The house is 2 levels + basement:

Central heating isn't out of the question, but I'm under the impression that retro-fitting duct-work would be prohibitively expensive/big job, and I like the idea of zoned heating to minimize wasted energy (and$$) as much of the house will be un[der]used. Eg, the office only needs heat during the weekdays.

These are the options I'm aware of:

Install duct-work and central gas furnace,
Install cool-climate multi-head ductless heat-pump to heat and cool the most used rooms (up to 4 heads I think?),
Install gas fireplace heating (possible locations shown on floor plan),

The question is: a) what other options exist, and b) what combination of these (or other suggested) options can be installed to provide the best heating solution.  "Best" will be defined as the solution that minimizes costs over 10 year period while maintaining a comfortable 20degC on the main floor and master bedroom.

As a starting point: my thoughts were to install a gas fireplace in the lounge and create a vent in the adjacent wall to blow cold air at the fireplace from the kitchen-dining room. That should add some needed circulation. Then install a heat-pump to handle the guest/master bedrooms and office. The rest would keep the baseboard heaters.


texts: What is the maximum angle I can set my window AC unit?

texts:
We know an AC unit must be angled to allow runoff. But what is the maximum angle and what is the issue with having to large of an angle? I've seen people say the angle is "5/16" or "3/16" but this is nonsense as an angle is not a length.

I am installing a window unit and would like to try and get the optimal angle if there is one.


texts: Does galvanized metal rust where the zinc is gone?

texts:
I'm planning to use some galvanized steel spike-nails for an outdoor project. I'd use seven inch nails and Nine Inch Nails* for the project, but I can't find them in odd sizes. So, my idea is to buy ten inch nails and saw them down to the desired lengths.

The catch is that sawing the nails would leave a large surface of steel without the galvanizing. Without the protective zinc, will that bare steel rust?

I know from chemistry that any zinc that's electrically connected to iron should protect the iron through cathodic protection, but does practical experience match the science? In other words, will the bare iron rust even though it's not supposed to?

* Capitalization intentional for comic relief.


texts: Removing counter sunk metal security Torx head screws

texts:
I have a lot of frozen countersunk T10H security pin Torx head 6-32 screws to remove from cast aluminum weatherproof enclosures. I have tried tapping, torqueing in both directions, penetrating oil, heat gun and ice/freeze mist. Tried to use a drill press and clamping the enclosure in a vise, but even then, the security pin makes the drill bit "walk" off the very hard screw. Someone told me there is some kind of electrical device used my machine shops to remove screws from engine blocks, etc., by "burning" the screw out. Will this work on screws as small as 6-32? If so, what is the device called, so I may intelligently call around to machine shops to see if they possess one of these devices? Any other ideas? I have snapped screws off and also snapped off about 5 T10H tool bits.
I there any special penetrating oil for stainless steel to aluminum tapped holes?


texts:
When the bathtub water (after a bath for my toddler) is draining,why does the toilet bowl water move?

This is a new home and this toilet recently had problems with the tank not filling and therefore not flushing well.


texts: Do I need more than one receptacle on a 17 foot kitchen wall with two doors?

texts:
I have a 17 foot wall in the kitchen. At each end of the wall is a door. So this effectively makes the actual wall 12 feet long. I am updating my electrical and need to know if I need one or two receptacles on this wall. Since the effective wall length is 12 feet, I thought it would be one receptacle (6 feet from receptacle to each doorway).
The wall is not a counter top wall. Outlets for small appliance circuits have already been installed. The doors in each corner go directly to the corner of the room and there is no space between the door frame and the corner to install an outlet.


texts: I replaced the motor in my dryer and it died almost immediately - can I just get another motor or is there likely another problem?

texts:
Dryer is a Samsung DV42H5000EW/AC that is about 4 years old.
I did the diagnostics with my multimeter as described in the little  booklet on the back of the dryer, found it was the motor, and replaced it. Everything worked normally for about 24 hours but then the same problem started up again.
I did the diagnostic steps from the booklet on the dryer on the new motor which specify:

2.88 ohms between pins 3 and 4 - I got 1.8 ohms

3.5 ohms between pins 4 and 5 - I got 1.9 ohms

So this seems like a fail, but on the last one when it failed it was 0 ohms.
So now I am wondering, do you think the new one died quickly because it was a bad motor, or is there some other issue causing it? Should I replace the control board?
The motor I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0718Z3T6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


texts:
I have a toilet that runs periodically, like maybe half the time after a flush. For what it's worth, it's not a constant run, but rather the water kicks on every 5 minutes or so to top off the tank.

The first thing I checked was the chain. The chain that connects to the flapper is not too short as to leave the flapper unsealed and it not too long as to get tangled up.

So next I removed the flapper and inspected it. No cracks or any signs of wear, really, which is not surprising seeing as the toilet and its innards are all less than four years old. I wiped down the underside of the flapper with a rag and did the same to the O-ring in the tank where the seal is made. Still no dice.

One odd thing I noticed that I've never experienced before with this toilet or others, is that when I am urinating into the toilet after like half way through I very distinctly hear the same noise you hear when you pour a liquid into another liquid (sorry, don't know if there's an official term for that sound). This keeps up for maybe another 2-4 seconds when I stop urinating. Could the increase of liquid in the bowl be overflowing into the tank or some other body of water? Not sure if that oddity would provide any help in diagnosing the problem or not, but thought I'd throw it in there.

My next step is going to be to try replacing the flapper, but I was hoping someone might have some additional insight or ideas into this issue.

Thanks


texts: Natural gas line sizing with generator addition

texts:
I am looking at installing a standby generator that uses ~320cfh of natural gas.  My utility company said I will have to have a bigger meter installed as I already have ~250cfh of potential usage with everything else on.

It's a little unclear to me as to whether I'll need a new pipe run from the curb stop to the house.  It measures about 1.6 inches OD, with the meter about 50 feet from the road, and has 1/4 psi inlet pressure.  Looks to be made of HDPE or something similar.  I see some conflicting information online regarding this but I think I'm in the clear.  Thoughts?  Are there standards for this type of pipe to let me know what the ID likely is?


texts: Trying to install Kasa smart switch but having trouble with ground wire

texts:
I started to install my KASA smart switch but when I opened the unit I wasn't able to find a ground wire. I currently have two black wires (one stabbed into the switch and the other is wrapped around the bottom screw on right side). I have a few questions:

Is the top black wire a hot wire or a ground wire? This seems to be going to the same area as the neutral. If this is a black hotwire, this would go into the black KASA wire.
The bottom black wire actually hooks around and then connects to another light switch to the right. Do I leave this wire as is and surround the nut around this wire with the KASA wire?
I read a grounded wire is not needed if your switch is plastic. Is this correct? The junction box is metal...

UPDATE: okay, I looked harder and saw that there is a copper wire attached to a screw that the back of the junction box (and is cut with no extra copper wire). Does this mean that the box is grounded and the switches are grounded as they are connected to the box?

UPDATE 2: Please see image 3 onward for updated photos with the copper cut at the back of the junction box. You can see that the hot wire and neutral wire come out of the same area. The copper wire is attached to a screw.

When looking at the bottom of the switch, I see that there is a copper (i think it is) attached to the screw, which touches the metal junction box.

Is this how the switch is grounded?

Please see images:


texts: What would cause all my dimmers to dim less?

texts: I have 4 different rooms with dimmers. Something changed that makes them not dim enough. If it were one room I'd guess a switch problem. If they were all LED's I might think it was the switch or the bulbs. The dimmers are the type that is supposed to work with LEDs. They all worked fine until about a week ago. So just to be clear: a week ago the lights would dim to just a faint glow. Now when the switch is flipped they only dim about half of full intensity. No other symptoms or electrical issues that I know of.


texts: House with some cracks on the exterior wall

texts:
We are thinking of buying this house but it has some cracks on the exterior wall...

It is clear that someone tried to patch them in the past. How bad do these look to you? The house was built in 1926 and we think it has cavity walls (although not 100% sure - the wall is 280mm thick). Inside it looks dry and there are no apparent cracks.

If we were to buy the house what would be the best thing to do about them? How much would it cost to rectify?

[Removed pictures for privacy]


texts: Outlet tester says "Correct", but there is no ground wire

texts: I replaced all outlets in my house weeks ago, informally noting which had ground wires and which didn't (only a couple).  To confirm my notes, I bought an outlet tester, yet all outlets including the couple with no ground wires are coming up "correct", rather than the anticipated "open ground".  Please advise.  Thanks.


texts: Is it possible to create a 4"x4" channel through concrete using acid?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out a possible way to eat through concrete without damage pex tubing inside (its a radiant heated slab). Is there any way using some type of acid (hydrofluoric, muriatic ) to eat a 4" wide and 4" deep channel through the slab that could be tapped out with a blunt chisel? Pex tubing is resistant to most acids so wouldn't be damaged.

Secondly would this be cost effective (under $1000), I need this channel to be about 71 feet long.


texts: Do I need to leave the light switch turned on all the time for a motion sensor to work?

texts:
I installed a halogen floodlight today so I adjusted the sensor tonight for it to work and it did. I thought by turning on the switch the light would stay on and when it is turned off the sensor would pick up movement and come on.

Do I need to leave the light switch turned on all the time?


texts:
I am renovating my master bathroom. In hand I have: a Trugard polystyrene pan and curb (essentially the same as Schluter-Kerdi), a Schluter drain flange, RedGard, and Hardiebacker board, plus items necessary for install (unmodded thinset, correct screws, etc).
I have resigned to needing membrane over the foam pan - but if I continue the membrane from the pan up a few inches to the backerboard, can I maintain the waterproofing by applying RedGard on the walls?


texts: Suggestions for finding replacement interior tilt latches?

texts:
I need to replace the left and right window tilt latches on an older vinyl window but I can't find any retailers who carry what I'm needing.  I see there are numerous tilt latches that can be attached on the top of my windows to fix this problem but I'd prefer to replace the broken INTERIOR latches with identical or replacement parts, if possible.
I've included a photo of the finger switch on the outside of the window, but the latch itself is contained within the window.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts:
This weekend, water was observed flowing up, through the floor and through other joints, into the building - making a swimming pool we didn't ask for!

Some Background

We currently have a project constructing a shop/garage in the Texas hill country. The site is above the flood plane and water table. The site is on the side of a hill; the ground is overwhelmingly limestone.

Construction has halted due to unusual and extensive rainfall in the area for the last several weeks.

Please see photos below for details of the water penetration problems.

The question:

What is the appropriate course of action considering:

the building has a poured concrete foundation with monolithic curb 12 inches tall
the below grade walls are 12 inch CMU and filled with concrete
we are in Texas, most people don't have a basement
most local contractors don't have experience working on below grade projects like this one (see above)
we followed the engineers instructions as closely as possible
we would prefer not to remove the back fill and start over

Is it possible to completely seal this building from the inside? If so, what products are most appropriate?

As an aside: There are several problems with this project including the floor (the top of the foundation) being out of level by several inches. During previous rain activity, prior to the roof installation, water was observed pooling in the north west corner. It was believed that this would not be a problem after the building was finished and watertight.

Topography

This is the topography of the area with the site in red.

Site plan

This is the site plan with the building in red.

Longitudinal section

This is the longitudinal section with the below grade portion in red.

Engineering

This is the engineering for the walls, including the french drain and waterproofing.

Floor plan

This is the floor plan with known water penetration areas in red.

Photos

Inside: Over view with known water penetration areas in red.

Saw cut:  Flowing from saw cut; seems to be high flow with visible water movement and pooling ~2 inches deep.

Wall/Floor Joint:
Flowing from wall/floor joint; seems to be high flow (but less then the saw cut) with visible water movement and pooling ~1 inch deep.

Floor Joint: Flowing up between floor and concrete drive outside; seems to be high flow with visible water movement but minimal pooling.

French Drain Working:
This is the french drain flowing at max capacity. The same is visible on the other side of the building.


texts: Can I put hard flooring over berber carpet?

texts:
My sunroom has berber carpet glued to a concrete floor. It isn't coming off and I don't want to waste the time & money to get it ripped up. I want hard flooring out there.

Can I put a concrete layer on top of the carpet and start over?

Are there easier cheaper hard flooring options?

Thanks!


texts: Where can I find a metal one of these online?

texts: I need something like the following but made of metal.


texts: Is there any harm in using shorter shelf brackets with a deeper shelf?

texts:
I'm planning on installing Ikea shelves mounted on wall brackets (using the Antonius system). Until recently there were Antonius shelves 14 3/8 inches deep, but now they've disappeared, leaving only 11 inches deep shelves. There is a 14 3/8 deep shelf (a Broder shelf), but to attached to the wall mount I need brackets. There are only brackets for 11 inch shelves. The shelves are planned to store dry food stuff mostly (cans, pasta, rice, potatoes, etc.), so it might be quite heavy.

What is the harm in using shorter brackets with a deeper shelf? The only things I can think of are a reduced carrying capacity for the bracket and since the out edge of the shelf is not supported, it might be break. But how realistic is that the 3 3/8 edge will break from a static load? The deeper shelf is wood (as opposed to particle board for the Antonius shelves).


texts:
My AC started to blow out pretty lukewarm air recently, as well as make watery sounds while running. I realized the filter was dirty, and I cleaned the coils, replaced the filter and removed lots of water from the drip pan. I was able to get an improvement in cold air and no watery noise. However, after about 6 hours of use, I started to hear the watery sounds again and noticed the drip pan was full. I imagine the drainage in the unit is clogged. Unfortunately, I live on the 7th floor of a building, so taking the unit out can be quite cumbersome. Are there any methods to fix the problem? Would pouring some bleach into the pan do the trick?

Update: I drained the drainage pan again and saw that the AC unit was regurgitating water.


texts:
We are required to create a firewall on our building that is less than 5' from the property line. We removed a window and now need to know if we can just leave the old header and framing and insert studs at 16" centers within the old window opening. Can anyone offer insight into this?

thank you.


texts: Is there a tool that can clean the fins of a base board heater?

texts: I have baseboard radiators in a new home (built in the 50s) and the fins are filled with lint. Vacuuming isn't pulling the stuff out. Is there a tool that can help with this?


texts: What does happen when a wire is run close to its maximum "calculated" current?

texts:
Disclaimer: I'm in Brazil. Although we do have electrical standards, building code is almost non-existant.

According to our standard (and some other sources since I've found it) the following apply to 2 circuits using 2.5 mm² monocore wire in the same conduit in a non insulated wall:

Two charged conductors 2.5mm² (per circuit) in a B1 method (not insulated wall) can carry 24 amps.
Since there are 2 circuits together, so apply the grouping factor of 0.8, now each conductor can carry 19.2 amps.

I want those circuits to power 20 Amp sockets (this a standard socket in Brazil). I know that it is almost impossible for it to reach 20A since by law 20 amps is the maximum allowed for electrical appliances plugs. So my 19.2 amps should suffice and work fine.

What would happen should I run the full 20A in both circuits. Will it get too hot? How hot? The PVC insulation is rated for 70°C and I think it must stand up to 90°C without being damaged, I doubt it could come close to that.

Also, I suppose those factors consider that both circuits are constantly on, which is often not the case in a home setting. Being on the safe side the surest thing to do would be to use 4mm² wire, but this is more expansive, harder to route and just annoying in general to use since most of the conectors and sockets work better (fitting and instalation) with 2.5mm² wire.

So back to the tile, what will happen if I run a circuit close or just above its calculated maximum/recommended current?


texts:
The screw eyes in the pic are stainless steel. The wire rope is galvanized steel supposedly.

As you can see, the screw eyes have brown where it touches the corroding wire rope.

does the screw eyes have rust or is is something I can clean once I replace the wire rope with stainless wire rope?


texts: Kitchen lights not working after changing bulbs

texts:
These F32T8 kitchen light bulbs stopped working, so I replaced them with these bulbs. After I replaced it, the lights turned on fine the first time. However, the lights no longer turn on. I've checked that the new lights are compatible with the old one and I have also checked the circuit breaker. How can I fix this? Thank you.

Additional: Immediately after the light bulb change, the light was on for 1+ hour. However, once I turned it off, it did not come back on. Just now, the light turned on when I was flipping the switch. After that, it does not come back on again.


texts:
I have an exterior lamp that is controlled by a standard switch and a 'timed-relay' (I push a button and light stays on for 3 minutes), I think those two are wired in parallel as if the lamp is on and I operate the relay button it clicks (so it has power).
If I switch OFF the breaker and the switch is ON the led bulb, instead of staying dark, starts blinking, but if I switch the light on by the relay then I switch off the breaker, light stays off (in this situation if I flip on the switch, bulb stays dark). What can be?

PS: I'm in EU (230V), my earthing is TT, my breakers are double pole, my main breaker is RCD.


texts: Does a 240v water heater circuit require a neutral?

texts:
I am confused something. I want to install a tankless water heater. Mounting the device, the plumbing, wiring, routing to the 200amp panel is all easy and straight forward.
Where I get stumped is the two breakers.
75A (2x40)A 240 8 AWG
The directions show to run 2 8/2 with ground.
The Illustrations show to connect both black(hot) and white(N) to the two prongs on the breaker.
I totally get 240v using a black red and white. but 240 connecting the Neutral to a hot I do not get.
I guessing something like a dryer really is has two components using 120v each sharing a nuetral and we call it a 240v.
But true 240v is doubling up on the hot but what about the neutral?
If anyone can explain this I'd appreciate it.
UPDATE
Thanks for all the comments but seriously guys, getting all hung up on the "White is just a color" is odd.
I know a white wire is a wire.
So when you connect a wire to the hot and another wire to the neutral (in this case they are (pink and blue) on the panel. Then connect the other ends of these 2 wires to a 120v outlet. The current being AC travels in alternating directions on this pair of wires.
So if I instead connect both of these wires to hot and connect the other ends to lets say one of the heating chambers of a tankless water heater. I got lost on how the alternating current occurs the same on 2 hots rather that a hot and a neutral.
That my question. I am not asking how the current knows it's on a pink wire.


texts: What might cause my dryer to trip the breaker labeled AC?

texts:
I've checked all the main components except the motor for continuity and they all check out fine.

The AC breaker gets tripped and when flipped back on the dryer works. Dryer breaker has not tripped.

All parts are original except heating element, which is maybe 3-5 years old.

Dries fine when running and will finish the whole cycle. It will only run that one cylce, though, and as far as I know it trips the breaker when the load finishes.

Update 2016-02-12:
The breaker labeled dryer is definitely the breaker controlling power to the dryer. Turning it off stops power to the dryer. I'm not sure which part is connected to the AC breaker.

It's too cold right now to turn on the AC so I haven't tested whether it will go off when the AC breaker is off.

I've investigated more and found that the door switch is broken, so it is not always engaged. Could the switch being momentarily engaged and then disengaged cause the issue?


texts: Are there octagonal box extenders that are slimmer than 1 1/2" deep?

texts:
Is there an octagonal box extender that's slimmer than 1 1/2" deep? So far I haven't been able to find one.

Here's why: to cover up 30 years of patching on one of my plaster and lath ceilings, I'm considering covering the entire ceiling with 3/8" drywall, but that solution will leave two electrical boxes sunken into the new ceiling. I could re-mount the boxes deeper into the ceiling and use a 1 1/2" box extender, or I could replace my boxes with deeper ones, but it'd be easier if I could just affix a slim box extender and be done with the job.

Does anyone make a skinny box extender?


texts: Appropriate installation for a detached structure electrical sub panel?

texts:
I currently had an irrigation pump and small shed 125' away from my main panel. This pump and shed electric is fed underground in 1" pvc pipe with #10 THHN 220v (neutral/ground/2 hots). I removed the shed and am building a larger workshop with a cement floor slab. The slab will contain the two wells, one for irrigation and the other is house well water supply. here's a pic of what it looks like now.

As you can see i have the irr pump wired up temporarily for now until the slab is poured.
I plan to leave the existing 4 #10 wires and pull an additional 4 conductors in the 1" pvc pipe for a new 60 amp feed. 2 #6 Black&Red Hots, 1 white #8 neutral & 1 green #10 ground. I went with the minimal sizing on the neutral and ground wires because of the possibly difficulty in getting these pulled through the 125' of pipe.
The pvc pipe will terminate into a square D DU323rb shut off box

This shut off box will be mounted 5' off the ground with the new conductors (2 hots & neutral) going to the 3 phases of the shut off box and the existing 4 conductors dropping down out of the shutoff in pvc to a disconnect box like this.

The irrigation pump will be wired directly from this disconnect box.
An 8' ground rod will be driven next to the slab under the shut off box and connected to the ground in the shut off box with #6 bare.
The new 60 amp feed will run from the shut off box to an interior load center, something like this
Which I will break into 20 amp circuits for lights, house well pump, shop equipment, Mini Split AC.
Just looking for comments and suggestions if anything stands out as incorrect?
Should I just remove the existing #10 wires and go with 4 #4 wires for everything and nix the disconnect box, could I even fit 4 #4 in 1" pvc? The southwire conduit calculator says it can be done with a 38.2% fill but I'm skeptical with my situation.


texts: Is there any chemical to remove excess solvent that is partly blocking water flow in 3/4 inch PVC pipe ? (the exact location of the restriction/restrictions is not known)


texts: I have a general question about learning woodworking for a still somewhat beginner!

texts:
So I am a college student and my major is woodworking, I enjoy it but I haven't really learned the simple things, I know a lot about table saw, routers, band saw, etc, but when it comes out to simple things like knowing when to use certain screws and which wood fits best with my project.
Now I'm the only girl in my major, and I get along with all the guys well but I hate to always have to ask them every time silly questions like these. They are more experienced than I am and I would love to learn more about basics I guess. My question is, how can I learn more about things like this? I don't want to just google each time, are there good sites or books that have mostly everything all summed up? anything you guys recommend?


texts: We just removed some molding from our floor only to reveal some kind of black substance that looks like dirt. We are not sure what it is. See the following photograph.


texts: Is it normal to install (pvc) decking like hardwood flooring?

texts:
Forgive me I'm a newb.

We have become the proud owners of a new deck. One of the features that we thought was great was that the boards are installed fairly snugly and diagonally nailed into joists like hardwood flooring. However, I'm used to seeing decking installed with screws nailed into joists from the top.

Is the method my contractor chose normal? Will boards be popping up on me in the years ahead?

Edit
I'll add that there is some spacing between boards, just not as much as I am used to seeing. Maybe on the order of a 1/8 inch spacing.


texts: Vapor barrier above a frequently wet crawlspace?

texts:
How can I create a vapor barrier between my home and its crawlspace which frequently has standing rain water that must evaporate and drain?  Some first floor rooms have smelled damp for years.  I am renovating the home, so now is the time to fix this.

My house on Long Beach Island in New Jersey is built on a man-made land mass crossed by lagoons.  The water table is only a foot below the surface of the packed silt soil.  After a rain storm, the vented crawlspace has standing water which takes a few days to evaporate and soak into the damp soil.

Most of the crawlspace floor is loosely covered with old plastic sheeting.  Kraft faced insulation hung between the floor joists, but I removed it after Hurricane Sandy flooding ruined it.  I found holes and gaps in the plywood subfloor for wires, pipes, and even a large hole beneath the tub drain.

How can I create a vapor barrier between this wet crawlspace and the plywood subfloor?  How can I fill the various sized subfloor holes around the electrical wires and copper pipes?  I will be creating a plywood box around the tub drain, but should I insulate it?  Before I install bedroom carpeting, can I install a vapor barrier on top of the subfloor?

I will make a separate post about the damp smelling rooms.  Thank you for your input.


texts: I'm finishing my basement. Is there any benefit to bringing the vents from the basement ceiling to the ground after I finish framing?


texts: Could this pipe be part of a french drain or something else related to a sump?

texts:
I excavated a wall in the corner of my basement and found what I'm assuming is a drain pipe, but the location has me baffled.  It's literally in the corner of my basement.  The placement doesn't seem ideal for a shower, sink, or toilet and there is a bathroom just 15 feet away.

Oddly, there's a 20 amp duplex outlet installed in conduit right next to a 15 amp outlet that was just nailed to a stud.

Could this be part of a french drain or something else related to a sump?  I don't see any signs of a post pour addition of a french drain.

If the picture I'm attaching works, it's either a 4 or 5 inch pipe that's capped.

Additional:

I noticed a crack in the pvc, so I started excavating to repair it, whatever it is.  Inside is a smaller piece of corrugated pipe, maybe 2 inches across.  It looks like it's wet.  The part of the elbow that's under the concrete doesn't seem to have any pvc leading from it.

Does this help identify what I have here?

New picture:


texts: How can I eliminate play in a water tap?

texts:
My hot water tap in the bathroom has had half a turn of play for as long as I can remember. That is, after increasing flow it takes half a turn before the flow will start going down again, and vice versa. It's a relatively minor problem, but it's a pet peeve of mine. The cold water tap responds instantly.

At one point I had the whole tap replaced for other reasons, and, to my dismay the replacement was exactly the same: perfect on the cold side, half a turn of play on the hot side.

I'd had enough recently and bought a spare tap gland at the local hardware store. It is now installed. The amount of play is almost exactly the same as before. I could actually feel it in the gland before installing it; it is wobbly. I'm pretty certain there is nowhere else that the play can be coming from.

Is this normal or am I really unlucky with this tap? How can I buy a gland without such wobble in it, like the one I have on the cold side? Please excuse my UK terminology.


texts: Two pole breaker for 240v circuit loses one side

texts: My well pump is fed by a 40a 240v circuit. I noticed that sometimes when the power cycles, or I manually cycle the breaker, that the circuit is only getting 120v. If I flip the breaker a few more times this resolves itself. Do I need a new breaker, or is this likely something else?


texts: Basement bathroom -- acceptable wet vent to use wye into main sewer line?

texts:
I finished my basement and added a bathroom (sink + toilet) and a wet bar (sink).  I am using a SaniPLUS system.  My original plan was to (reluctantly) run an open air vent from the basement, up through the garage to the laundry room above and tie into the vent line running up through the attic to the roof.  This would require ripping down drywall in garage walls, ceilings, and in the laundry room.  However, while searching online, I came across a video on YouTube from TheSaniFlow Store where he clearly is using the main sewer line in the basement as the wet vent.  Jump to 4:25 in this video to see it described very clearly.  I was surprised at this interpretation of wet venting but would be perfect for me...
Wet vents are permitted in my jurisdiction as my house (built in 2015) employs them throughout.  Can I avoid all of the drywall rip/tear/rebuild and tie the SaniPLUS vent in as a went vent as described in the image below?  Vent would be red, waste would be blue -- both wye'd into the main line adjacent to one another.  Interestingly, the drain from the 2nd floor laundry is the existing wye shown in this image -- not sure if that helps me in my wet vent strategy as well?


texts: Is heating feature in an air conditioner bad?

texts: I was looking to buy an air conditioner (split system), recently and a local dealer told to go for ACs with cooling feature only and not ACs with heating feature, as they require more servicing and consumer faces many problems with them. I couldn't find anything validating this online. Is this true?


texts: Installed smart switch on switch controlling multiple lights, now they invert?

texts:
I wonder how this could have happened. We have three lights in front of our front door, one hanging above the front door, and two on the sides. I replace the light switch with a Kasa smart switch, and now something weird is happening. When I turn the switch on, the light above the door turns ON and the two lights on the sides don't. However, when I turn the switch off the light above the door turns OFF and the two lights on the side turn ON.
What could be happening here? How would this be "inverting"?


texts:
I have a a steel frame gazebo with ripped canopy. Therefore, I was thinking of replacing the canopy with hard top. I have started my research and I arrived at these options
1- Ondura corrugated panel (Asphalt/fiberglass) which is around $22 a panel
2- Suntuf corrugated panel (polycarbonate) which is around $55 a panel.

Obviously  I would opt in for the cheaper option but is there a strong reason I should go (or should not go) with one or the other? Or perhaps another panel I am not aware of.

Can these panels be installed on the steel beams directly (  beams are like this)

The gazebo frame I have is 10 by 12

I greatly appreciate your advice

Thank you


texts: Simple software for stress analysis of wooden structures?

texts:
I'd like to develop an intuition for how the stresses are distributed in a simple wooden structure (in this case, a bunk bed). One option is to spend years building bunk beds, but I'm hoping I can develop some intuition a little faster.

What software could I use to visualize the stresses on and bending of wood in simple geometric structures? I assume I'm looking for some kind of FEA (Finite Element Analysis) system, but it's not clear if any of them are built to do anything this simple.

What software would you recommend for under $100? What if money was no object?


texts: Central Vacuuming: Is it worth it, and how does it compare to normal vacuuming?

texts:
I am in the process of buying a brand new home in the US through a builder. The home will be approximately 3,000 sq ft and I was given the option of buying a central vacuuming system for the house.

It looks really nice and convenient. The price doesn't sound crazy for the potential benefit and all the "plumbing" required (approx. $3,500). I am pretty confident this would not be something easy (or even feasible) to get installed after the home is built. Therefore, a few questions that popped in my head are:

In terms of efficiency of vacuuming, is this a better option than normal vacuum cleaners that have to be plugged in to the wall? (i.e. which of the two removes more dust from my home?)
Any concerns regarding the compatibility of the holes that go in the wall? Are they pretty standard, or will I be tied to a particular manufacturer if I decide to buy the central vacuuming system?
Is it true that central vacuums will expel less dust than normal vacuums? The seller said so and it sounds intuitive to me since you can have particles coming out of the electric vacuum cleaners while you're vacuuming, while the central vacuum is just a giant hose all the way to the central container.
Thoughts on the little dust vent that goes in the wall, used to suck the particles you swept from the floor? (doesn't require the hose)
For those who have it, do you think it's worth it? Any limitations that make you have to use an electric vacuuming system?


texts: Attach piece of wood to wall, with need to be removed often

texts:
I need to attach some timber (pine) to a wall. It is for decoration. The straightforward way is to use screws and wall plugs.

However, once a month, the timber will need to be removed, some decoration added to it, and then put back.

How can I find a secure way to attach it, but keeping the ability to remove it often?

Are there some special wall plugs that resist well to many unscrews and screws? Or maybe another way?


texts: Wood heating - Problems with power failures. Need some advice

texts:
My sister uses wood heating in here house.

Her heating system has temperature control but of course does not work without electricity.

If electricity goes off the temperature can grow uncontrollably. It has some safety valves and stuff but it is still a danger.

When light goes off my brother-in-law must take all the wood out. This is annoying doing the day and dangerous during the night as they don't know if the power goes off.

They are thinking of a generator:

a small one is affordable but you need to power it manually when the light goes off. If it happens at night it's still a problem.
an automatic one that goes on by itself is very expensive.
maybe something in between those two but couldn't find anything.

I was also thinking of an UPS but that usually allows you to power down your systems safely; it doesn't last long (1h tops !!??). And at night it's still a problem.

The safest thing I can think of is to have some power failure alarm in place that starts "to scream" if power goes off (at night they will awake everybody in the house).

What are really my options here? Any advice is welcomed.


texts: selecting correct stain and varnish/poly/something else for oak hardwood floor

texts:
I'm going to sand down some oak floors and stain them with a darker color. I'm struggling with finding the correct products and process to do this. (I already have a plan for sanding)

I have two 50lb dogs so I want the most durable end result that I can get in hopes their claws can't scratch anything when i'm done.

According to Sherwin williams website they recommend:

While SW recommends oil based it seems everyone else recommends water based.

Bottom line is i'm confused on what process to take here. Oil based stain vs water based. Use a varnish or dont use a varnish. Some sort of polyurethane protection? Thanks.

It would be great if someone could post the exact products they used (maybe even links too) and the process they took. Thanks.


texts: How can I convert a 120V chandelier to 240V?

texts: I have a chandelier made for the USA market and runs on 110-120 volts. What modifications do I need to make it work in India which has 220-240 volts? Will it need to be rewired?


texts: Second layer of drywall on textured ceiling: Do I need to sand down or remove the texture before second layer goes on?

texts:
I have a textured ceiling similar to this:

Some of the texture peaks at 1/8", but it mostly peaks at 1/16".  I am going to be applying a second layer of drywall with Green Glue in between and I want to know if all this texture has to be sanded down or scraped off before the second layer goes on.


texts: When would one use an impact driver versus a regular drill?

texts: Or vice-versa.  As best as I can tell, the impact driver is very good for most any type of screw going through wood.  When would you use a drill (with screw bit) instead?


texts: Insulation in the basement underneath of my fireplace

texts: I have a gas fireplace that bumps out from the side of the house. It is always been drafty and super cold in the winter, today I went down and pulled down the one piece of batt insulation that was there and there's about two foot Gap behind it, this was also the fact with the two rafters next to it, as well as a hole in the floor underneath the fire place and a hole in the side of the house where you can see siding. I assume there used to be a external vent for the different fireplace. So I did proceed to fill the void with fiberglass batt insulation and the two holes along with finishing all the rafters that whole side of my house which was missing some. Was it bad for me to have fiberglass insulation in this void under my fireplace?


texts: The house was built in 1996 and one (1) service box breaker and one (1) GFCI located in one bathroom serves all three bathrooms including three (3) brick-mounted outdoor outlets. Can this single GFCI serve to pass inspection today or should I replace the three (3) outdoor outlets with GFCI's and appropriate box covers?


texts: How do I handle an unused light fixture junction box in a bathroom?

texts:
I am in the process of adding a 3/4 bathroom to the upper of my house. The plumber just finished the rough in and all framing is complete. I am now looking at the electrical and I have a issue.
There are two lights on a three way switch, but one of these lights falls inside my new bathroom in the wrong spot so I need to eliminate it. I plan on a new ceiling light but it needs to be in a different location.
Can I eliminate the light then do what I need to do to the wires (cap),
put the wires back in the box, and then put a cover over the box leaving it visible? I will not bury the box or hide it or conceal it. The bath will have its own separate circuit when I am done.


texts: What pressure should I aim for when setting a pressure reducing valve?

texts:
Since the time I moved into my house, I've had problems with water hammer. More recently, I've had some faucets start to leak. I also noticed that after showers/baths, the hot water would surge when the sink faucet was turned on.
After installing water hammer arrestors, and securing all the plumbing. I have reduced, but not eliminated the hammer.  As for the surging water after a large hot water demand. I recognized that, as a symptom of a failed expansion tank.
In the process of replacing the tank, I took a water pressure reading in order to charge the tank. When I got a reading of 85 psi, I was slightly concerned.  Especially when the instructions for the expansion tank, said not to charge the tank over 80 psi. Of course I went directly to the code books, and discovered that codes call for a PRV for pressures over 80 psi.

International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 29 Water Supply and Distribution
Section P2903 Water-Supply System
P2903.3.1 Maximum pressure.
The static water pressure shall be not greater than 80 psi (551 kPa). When main pressure exceeds 80 psi (551 kPa), an approved pressure-reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 shall be installed on the domestic water branch main or riser at the connection to the water-service pipe.

International Plumbing Code 2012
Chapter 6 Water Supply and Distribution
Section 604 Design of Building Water Distribution System
604.8 Water pressure reducing valve or regulator.
Where water pressure within a building exceeds 80 psi (552 kPa) static, an approved water-pressure reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 or CSA B356 with strainer shall be installed to reduce the pressure in the building water distribution piping to not greater than 80 psi (552 kPa) static.

To make a long story short, I'm installing a pressure reducing valve (PRV). However, I'm not sure where I should set it. I've gotten used to the high pressure, and I'm afraid lowering it will be disappointing. At the same time, eliminating water hammer, and not worrying about damaging fixtures would be a good thing.
I've searched the internet, and found recommendations anywhere from 40 to 80 psi. Family Handyman says that "... 45 to 55 psi is ideal.". I've also found that most PRVs come preset to 50-55 psi. Other sources say that anything over 60 psi, may cause damage to the plumbing system. IRC requires pressure to be above 40 psi, so I know I want to be above that.

P2903.3 Minimum pressure.
The static water pressure (as determined by the local water authority) at the building entrance for either public or private water service shall be not less than 40 psi (276 kPa).

What pressure should I set the pressure reducing valve to?


texts: I found this recipe for EPS concrete, and am thinking of using it to make a fire bowl (a decorative concrete bowl like the one described here, which holds a chafing dish gel fuel pack.) I would like to avoid generating toxic fumes, however, so I would like to know whether burning a gel fuel pack in a bowl made of EPS concrete would be safe. The main reason I want to use EPS concrete instead of the regular heavy stuff is weight.


texts: Why does my toilet plumbing make a low fog horn noise when I flush

texts:
Our toilet makes an annoying, low fog horn type noise every time we flush. The noise goes on the whole time whilst the cistern is filling up, except for the last few seconds. No other usage of water in the bathroom or anywhere else in the house  causes a similar noise. The noise seems to resonate throughout the house.

What could be the cause of this and how might we go about trying to diagnose and fix it?

There is a recording of the noise here, though the droning noise seems quiet in the recording, as it's overwhelmed by the cistern filling noise: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByIxRsvAvipMdlNxMUhtT1dORFFyMTJvYmt5eGxfVVcxdmJj/view?usp=drivesdk


texts:
I just finished installing a new Grey Water Pit (4’deep, 4’wide & 32’long). 4” perforated PVC runs down the middle of pit to 8” off the bottom & tees out in both directions 16’. Then filled pit up with 15 yards of gravel to 10” from top. Then covered gravel with ( 2’x 8’x 1/8”) corrugated black plastic panels & a layer of 8 mill plastic to keep dirt from seeping down into gravel. Then covered to grade with dirt.
DID I MESS UP BY PUTTING PLASTIC ON TOP OF GRAVEL???
My neighbor says I should not have used plastic & just covered gravel with dirt so water would evaporate out the top. The pit ditch sides are pretty hard solid clay dug down to a sand layer at the very bottom of the pit, so probably not going to get water to soak into walls of pit, just the bottom at sand layer.
I live in the middle of Oklahoma panhandle & only get average of 17” of rain per year. The new G/W pit only gets the cloths washer & kitchen sink water to releave stress on my 20 year old septic tank.


texts: Can you "refresh" half-dried concrete just by mixing in water?

texts:
I mixed a wheelbarrow load of concrete (sand, cement, water) this morning, but before I could use most of it, I got called away and didn't get back until this evening, like 7-8 hours later. By now the concrete is half set - very stiff and dry and has to be almost scraped out so it can't really be used.

But I find if I add a little water and mix, it's back to the same consistency as when I first mixed it this morning. This saves a bit of work and cement / sand.

My question is, is it any good at this stage (being used for laying patio slabs) or I should I just dump it and mix a new batch?


texts:
What is the black stuff in the first four photos, and the white stuff in the last photo?  Is any of it mold, or is it all harmless stuff?

Structure is about 10 years old.  Home inspector claimed that the first four photos are just "truss fungus", which he claimed is present in almost all homes.  He didn't notice the white stuff in the last photo.

The home inspector claimed that the wood comes like that from the builder's wood supplier, and it is totally normal.

Was the home inspector correct, or was he just making a quick buck on a shoddy inspection?


texts: Is it possible to recover waste heat from a boiler?

texts:
I did a google search and came back with industrial products, but no residential prosucts.

I have a System 2000 boiler and hot water tank. When the furnace is firing, the temp of the exhaust through the flue is around 400 degrees.

That seems like a horrible waste of heat.

Same thing with the dryer. It throws heat right outdoors, which also seems like a waste. (not really concerned with humid air, as it is winter and I have to run a humidifier anyway).

Is there any "safe" method to do recover waste heat from a boiler?


texts: How do I repair this damage to my driveway?

texts:
After the brutal winter, my wife and I found several locations on our driveway where the concrete is crumbling. This is the worst of them:

In the past, I have used self-leveling concrete caulk similar to this to fix damage like this:

However, I am concerned that due to it being near the edge that the caulk will fill in the crack between blocks and possibly make the damage worse due to expanding and contracting of the concrete.

How should I repair this damage, short of replacing the driveway itself?


texts: Why would a wall-mounted AC unit with a digital thermostat seem to be reading outside temperature when the fan isn't running?

texts:
My apartment has a wall-mounted AC unit with a digital temperature setting, which works great, but it has a consistent problem where its thermostat appears to read much differently than the actual room temperature, usually instead reading what appears to be the outside temperature. This means that when it is hotter outside than inside when it is cooling, once it reaches the set temperature it turns on again after what appears to be a very short while (~5 minutes), and when it is cooler outside than it is inside (such as during the night), it will read low, and will allow the room to become much hotter than what the temperature is set to.

When this happens, it you run its fan for a minute or so it will then "realize" the actual room temperature, the thermostat reading will significantly change accordingly, and then it will cool as usual. This is a problem though, particularly at night when it's inconvenient to manually adjust the fan settings, because it allows the room to get much hotter than what it's set to (sometimes +10 degrees F). I can't compensate by setting the temperature lower than actual desired temperature, because once it does kick on, it will "read" correctly, and then cool for much longer (and to much colder) than I would like it to be.

Because using the fan causes it to get an accurate reading, my hunch is an airflow problem - I've cleaned the filter, the front grill, the thermometer bulb, and the radiator fins inside, and it still happens. Would anyone have any insight on why this would be? Do you think getting a separate floor fan to increase the room circulation (and therefore hopefully improve the airflow from the room through the unit) would help? Or is it time to get in touch with a professional to investigate the unit?

The air conditioner model is a General Electric AJCQ08ACCM2, and it's rated for 8000 BTUs.  The area that it's cooling is ~200-250 square feet.


texts: How to prevent outdoor wall touching concrete fom getting moisture issues?

texts: In my house the drywall is contact with the concrete. This is putting lot of moisture in the drywall and eventually it will start to rot. What is the best solution in this case to isolate the wall with concrete moisture. Pictures attached.


texts:
I am trying to extend my back patio like this

Eventually, I want to extend the full 18 feet, but for now I am planning to just do the 5 feet by 5.5 feet section in blue. This section will be attached to the existing patio and the house. My plan is this:

Dig out the existing ground by 8 inches deep. This will provide for a 4 inch gravel subbase and a 4 inch patio.
Pour the gravel subbase.
Use stakes and 2x4s to make the frame.
Put in the rebar grid.
Glue asphalt-impregnated fiber board to the existing patio and house to create an isolation joint.
Mix and pour cement.
Screed concrete and smooth out top with 2x4s.
Seal concrete.

My first question is this: Will I need to insert the rebar grid into the existing concrete and the house foundation? In other words, do I need a better connection between existing concrete and the new concrete or will the isolation joints be fine?

Also, is there anything that I am missing in this plan? Or is there anything that I should be aware of when taking on this project?

Thank you.


texts: Dual Thermostats: Which wire goes where?

texts: I have two heating systems in my house, oil and wood. I’m currently swapping out old mercury thermostats with new ones. I’ve got the wood one replaced with a newer analog one which I think is okay, but I’m using a digital for the oil. The thing is, the previous thermostats shares the same red wire, so now I’m wondering where the blue and red wire go in the second pic for the digital. Thanks!


texts: Can I use knee bracing to cantilever a deck further than code allows?

texts:
I live in Florida and currently have a deck support by ten 9" round, 10' high pilings. The outer ledge boards are double 2x10x10 bolted to the piling which are notched to accommodate the double 2x10s.

The current deck is only 5.5' wide. The pilings are spaced 9 feet apart with one piling on each side of the deck every 9 feet to support it. I only want to extend the deck 30".

Instead of tearing the whole deck off and redoing the supports to cantilever it which can only be 24", I thought I could use 2x10s for a knee brace on each side of the piling and run 14" galvanized bolts through it. Then I would run a 2x10 parallel to the house on top of the knee brace on the outside and use lag screws to attach it to the knee brace. Then use 2x8x30" long with galvanized joist hangers to attach to the existing double 2x10 which is resting in a slotted space on the piling and bolted to it And the 2x10 bolted on top the knee brace.

____________________________
        | <-- hanger      |/|
    old | new             |/|
  joist | joist           |/|
________|_________________|/|
|   |/|/|             /     /
|   |/|/|            /     /
|   |/|/| <-- beam  /     / <-- knee brace
|   |/|/|          /     /
|   |_|_|         /     /
|       |
|       | <-- piling
|       |
|       |

Do you think this would work or do you have any other ideas?

To answer some of your questions. The pilings are pressure treated wood telephone poles. They are 9" round. I have attached a side view of the knee brace I'm considering using,


texts: Is it safe to run multiple (four) mains electric cables in a conduit together (heat considerations)

texts:
I have four 240V mains (United Kingdom) cables I would like to run along the side of a wall in a conduit/conduit(s).

Can you advise if it is safe to put all 4 cables in the same conduit or multiple conduits for heat considerations.

The cables themselves are standard household mains cables (3 mains wires contained inside plastic outer covering).

By conduit I mean a firm plastic rectangular plastic tubing, fitted against the skirting (bottom) of a wall in an internal household room.

Several google searches did not give be specific enough results for my requirements.

Pointers to official BSI/ISO and/or other official electrical safety standards to backup answers would be very useful.

Thank you for your help.


texts: Plumbing main line question high water bill

texts:
I just got the bill from the water company and it was much higher then usual. It went from roughly $26 a month to $75. We had a small leak in the main line. This line was replaced and now my bill is three times normal.
The only difference is the plumber changed the pipe from 1 inch to a 3/4" line.
I have been checking the meter for hours and no movement.
My question is can changing the size in the main line cause that large a increase? The woman at the water company says that if the meter is not working properly it would usually give a lower reading.
Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts:
I recently bought a house with a zero clearance fireplace, and had a metal/glass door installed on the front. I suspect the metal door is touching the tiles on the wall above and transferring a lot of heat. When the fireplace is running, I can't hold my hand for more than a few seconds on the bottom of the tiles above the fireplace. However, if I move my hand a few inches up it's just fine. Is this too hot, or expected?

Edit: Here's a picture of the door I had installed. It's made for zero clearance fireplaces. We always have the doors fully open when the fireplace is on. Also, to clarify, this is a gas unit, not wood burning.


texts:
Our new-to-us house has cable-guided retractable solar screens. The cable tension is maintained by a bracket mounted piece of hardware that looks kinda like this:

Not even the hard to find hardware websites are able to provide a clue on where such can be found. There are a number of corroded pieces outside; I'd like to find a source before I start trying to adjust the tension in the cables. Suggestions?


texts: How can I duct through a new cabinet from a floor vent opening at the wall?

texts:
Got a window bench put in, but need a way to direct the air from the old baseboard vent register hole to out the front of the bench. NOt so sure a box store is going to have the proper vent duct parts I need in the correct shape. This guy online makes something exactly for it but it'll cost $72 shipped which is ridiculous: https://toekickductor.com/product/toe-ductor-baseboard-vent-kits/

Any help is appreciated. I'm not so sure I'll be able to cut a vent boot / trim, but maybe.

vent hole is about 14" x 2", register hole in front of bench is about 10" by 4"


texts: How to construct this 4-way X table leg arrangement?

texts:
I have googled a bit trying to find a similar project, but so far all I can find is this page.

Any suggestions on where to find guidance to build these legs?  Inspection of the photos hasn't helped.

The table I am building is a 34 inch diameter fir tree slab about 4 inches thick; it weighs about 40 kg (90 lbs).


texts:
I have plastic tap covers (kitchen sink) which need replacing as they are mouldy inside and cracked    ..... but I cannot access the screw which I can see through the plastic top.... maybe they are 'lift off' type..... they are about 20 plus years old!

Will I have to replace whole tap? etc.


texts:
The faucet runs even when the handles are turned off so I wanted to pull these off and see if I could figure out what is going on...

but I have no idea how to get the faucets off. No visible set screws.

The rings above the conical base pop up then the conical base turns about 2 full revolutions then stops. Is it possible these things are just press on?

EDIT: found the set screws, but it did just slide off. With the ring above the conical part moved, and the conical part screwed all the way down, a small set screw was revealed!


texts: Why does it take 20-30 seconds for a fluorescent tube to start?

texts:
One of the fluorescent lights in my apartment does nothing for long seconds or sometimes even minutes when turned on (then it surprises me when it suddenly comes on). It behaves as if there were some kind of timeout or something before it turns on. Eventually the glow switch comes on and fluorescent tube starts normally then.

I recorded a video about the problem where you can see it takes roughly 20 seconds for the glow switch to come on: https://youtu.be/Bw2DfIFjn8k

What causes this? Is it the problem of the starter or the ballast? The tube seems to be ok.


texts: I have an existing three way switch hooked up already, it works fine. I would like to add another three way switch by connecting another switch to the existing three way switch. Can this be done with 14/2 romex between the two switches?


texts: How to taper a flat roof for a slight fall

texts:
I'm building a flat roof (3.6m x 3m) and I've purchased some treated timber firring strips which go from 100mm to 0 along the length. These will be placed directly on the joists.

I will then add ply, vapour barrier, insulation, OSB3, then roof covering.

If the fall were from the back to the front, with a rainwater gutter along the front, this would be a very simple thing to do. I could simply lay the firring strips from back to front, and the ply would create a slight ramp on one plane.

However my problem is that I don't want a gutter along one side, but rather a downpipe near one of the front corners.

Should I have the main fall / ramp from back to front, then a slight fall at the front from one side to the drainpipe side?

Or should I attempt to create a fall in 2 directions at the same time?

If I imagine a 2-plane fall, with a split across the diagonal (top right to bottom left of pic below) this seems ideal, however the firring strips need to bear on the joists and I want to avoid having to create additional support between joists for diagonal firring strips.


texts: Getting ready to start plumbing on new house. Just wondered if I could plumb/vent outside of existing wall and build another wall in front of it. It would eliminate drilling through studs and alot of aggravation.


texts: Is it possible/recommended to use AFCI/GFCI breakers when replacing subpanel?

texts:
I'm replacing my old subpanel. (It was from Federal Pacific.)
I'm not rewiring my home. And I understand that I'm not required to use AFCI/GFCI breakers.
Is it possible to use AFCI/GFCI breakers with the new panel? I prefer AFCI/GFCI breakers for the safety benefits they provide.


texts: Pouring concrete slab against 2 block walls and an asphalt driveway

texts:
I need to pour a small (~5' x ~5') concrete pad that will butt up against 2 basement block walls (A&B in the diagram) and my asphalt driveway (D in the diagram). I'm having some trouble figuring out how to frame it correctly as I need it to slope toward a trench drain I will be installing as well.

From my understanding, there needs to be an expansion joint between the newly poured pad and the existing block wall. Would using something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-50-ft-Foam-Expansion-Joint-70450004/100674358 be sufficient as screeding surface to get the slope right and an expansion joint?
What should I use to frame side D as it's not a straight line and actually has a gradual angle? Would 1x lumber or plywood be flexible enough or is there something else that I could use?
Once the pad is poured, should I insert the expansion joint material between the pad and asphalt (D) or would some concrete caulk be sufficient?


texts: Need a tensioning rod to push something tight (opposite of a turnbuckle)

texts:
I need rod that can push two blocks of wood apart. The space is about 16" wide.
So, basically it is the opposite of a turnbuckle, kind of like a tensioned shower rod.
Is there any kind of standard mechanical device to do this, and if so, what is it called?


texts: Added a celing fan in bedroom, need to wire for switch

texts: I recently added a box to install a ceiling fan in our bedroom. We want to convert the single switch in the bedroom to a dual switch. The single switch thats currently in, turns on power to the top outlet on an outlet panel of two. Anything plugged into that outlet (we keep a lamp plugged in) will turn on when we turn the switch on. So, we want to convert the single switch into a dual switch so that will turn the outlet (lamp) on and the other the ceiling fan. How should this be wired? Its current set up is a single switch on the wall, we ran an independent/2, black, white, ground, from the ceiling fan junction box to the swingle switch that we want to convert to a double. Thank you in advance to everyone!


texts: Outlets that seem to be on same circuit, but not behaving that way

texts:
I'm trying to install a GFCI outlet in my kitchen. My understanding is that you can install one GFCI on the circuit and this will protect all of the other outlets. This is assuming that the GFCI outlet is installed at the beginning of the circuit. (Correct me if I'm wrong about this).

In attempting to identify the outlet at the start of the circuit, I went one by one and disconnected each one of them, testing the others as I did that. They all seem to operate independently of each other. Disconnecting one outlet did nothing to the others.

What makes this puzzling to me is they are all connected to the same circuit breaker. So wouldn't this mean they are all on the same circuit? If they are all on the same circuit, why do all of them continue to work no matter which one is disconnected?


texts: User serviceable parts inside this CFL floor lamp?

texts:
I've been asked to look at a CFL floor lamp. It's many (5-10) years old and one day stopped working; it simply didn't turn on. The fluorescent bulb (four short (5 inch?) tubes extending from a plastic base with a single four pin cluster) was taken to a store and it did work there, but the bulb's whereabouts is currently unknown.

Randomly probing between pairs of the four holes in the lamp socket at random shows between 5 and 15 VAC, but nearly zeros DC.

Is this lamp likely to have user-serviceable parts inside, like ballast for example? Or is the only course of action to buy a new CFL bulb and see what happens?

  click for full size

update: based on helpful suggestions from @ I've opened the base of the floor lamp and there's a whole circuit board full of components!

There's a small fuse(?) labeled F1. My low quality DVM reads 0.7 Ohms when I touch the probes together and the same 0.7 Ohms when I touch them to either side of the fuse. Yes it's still in the circuit, but it at least suggests the fuse might be okay.

click images for full size


texts:
I am trying to hook up a Vine TJ-610B-W WiFi thermostat to my heater. The original thermostat had only 2 wires, hooked to R and W, none hiding in the wall. I plan to use an external transformer for power. The problem comes when hooking up the new wires, I now have 4 wires and all I read say to hook the original 2 to R and W, then from the transformer to C and either RH or RC. Problem is the new thermostat only has and R. What I have is "R" "G" "W" "Y" "C" "W2" "..." "O/B-Y2"

Thank You


texts: Can I run a kitchen sink drain 19' through a hollow stud wall with seven 90-degree turns?

texts:
I am adding a kitchen sink to a basement and want to run the sink drain through a hollow stud wall to reach the existing soil stack. My concern is it is 17' away and requires seven 90-degree elbows. Yes, seven. I know it's crazy, but this is what I have to work with. There is a pillar in the way which can't be moved, and I don't see any other options besides cutting a long trench in the concrete from the sink to the stack in the bathroom, which I really don't want to do. Three questions:
1) Is this feasible?
2) Will it pass inspection?
3) Do I need a vent near the kitchen sink or will the stack in the bathroom serve as an adequate vent?


texts: New house, new LG refrigerator & AFCI wiring

texts: We just bought a house, May 2019, the first week the AFCI breakers began to trip. Outlets & switches both. The biggest concern is our new LG refrigerator. It trips about once a week, sometimes even more.  Called the city inspector who said AFCI was now code. Ok, so how do we fix this tripping problem? With the lights it’s not that big a problem but the refrigerator is another story. We can’t go away even for a few days cause the fridge will probably go out. I put a corded light on top of the fridge, plugged into the same outlet as fridge, 15 amp service AFCI, when that light goes out I know it’s time to go down into the basement to reset the breaker, dedicated also. So what is the answer? The electrician who wired the house refuses to come back to change or check his work. The neighbor said his paper shredder tripped a fault. A clicker switch to turn lights on & off from a chair tripped the AFCI breaker. It can be anything. If the NEC is going to make these changes, why not put the breaker on the first floor? But my original question is, why is the refrigerator tripping every 3/6 days, randomly.


texts: How is the alternating current in your home a complete circuit?

texts: Here's what I'm asking: if the electricity flows from the hot wire to device X, then to the neutral wire which ultimately carries the signal to ground/earth at the panel then how does electricity "get back to" hot?  Like, what "bridges the gap" between ground at the end of the circuit and hot at the beginning of the circuit?


texts: Low foghorn noise after new pressure reduction valve and expansion tank installed

texts:
A plumber recently installed a new pressure reduction valve and expansion tank in my house (which previously had neither) because the water pressure was unusually high. About a week after the install, I started hearing a low, loud foghorn noise whenever I turned on any faucet in the house or flushed the toilet. The noise comes a few seconds after the water comes on, and it typically only happens after periods of no water usage, such as in the morning or when I get home from work. I spoke to the plumber who is coming back next week, and he doesn't think the problem is the PVR unit itself, but everything I'm seeing online indicates that usually is the problem. What could be causing this noise?
Update: the plumber came out and agreed it sounds like the PRV. He replaced it, and two days later I haven't heard the noise once.


texts: Cracks in basement cement that seem to leak more when water is running?

texts: I came home from a 2 day trip and found cracks in my basement cement with water seeping into them. I noticed that when I ran the water it leaked more, any guess what the problem is?


texts:
For starters I know nothing about electrical stuff, please keep that in mind.
We had a very strange occurrence where (no breaker was tripped) one of our electrical lines behind one of the breakers no longer receives electricity. This happened at the very same time as our stove top stopped working, which is on its own line.
I took the stove top apart and took a look, measured electrical flow. Our house doesn't seem to have a Phase 3, because that cable is just cut, so it uses L1 and L2 in its cable, however when I measure the presence at the end of the cable (which is connected straight to the stove top), only one of the veins actually carries a current (It was either L1 or L2)
Now I'm thinking that somehow the cable broke. Aren't they both supposed to carry a current? The connection on the stove top surely assumes that they should.


texts: Is a 6 inch reinforced slab suitable for a 12,000 lb storage tank?

texts:
I will be building a 200 Sq. feet garage to be used as a pump house for a new home in the desert north of Phoenix, Az. The soil is natural desert (fist size rock 85%, 15 % DC granite and some sand mixed in, all virgin soil that's extremely hard packed). Can I use a 6"or  8" slab with 3/8 rebar 16" grid and be safe with a round water tank Apx. 6 Ft. Round 12,000 Lb. when full?

And what test would it need to be? There will be no plumbing under the slab or in the slab, just sitting on the level virgin desert rock. Thanks for your thoughts.


texts: I’m think about buying a gas range and not sure if my kitchen is setup for it for or not.


texts: We replaced our oil burner with natural gas (not the high efficiency type) and it appears the cooler exhaust is causing heavy condensation near the roof. Chimney company wants to install a stainless liner but I hear aluminum is an option since this is natural gas.  Will aluminum work? Will it last?


texts:
I have purchased an outdoor antenna. I need to run a line between the antenna and the TV. To save time, i'd like to use the existing (unused) cable line by attaching the antenna to one of the cables in the image. Can someone with experience please advise which of these cables go to where and which one I can safely connect my antenna to that will track to my TV.
We currently only have Centurylink via a phone line (the small brownish cable attached to the PVC pipe on the left of the image).


texts: what is the best protective sleeve for working with power tools. My buddy's boss badly cut his forearm to the bone with a disc grinder cutting masonry and he wants to know if kevlar sleeves will be enough to maybe help in that it wouldn't cut as bad {to the bone and through tendons)?


texts: How do I hang a shelf without drilling holes?

texts:
I'm currently living in a house in which we have clear instructions not to drill through the walls for danger of asbestos.

I purchased a small projector and would like to mount a shelf to the wall, but I know that I cannot drill through. The projector weighs about 1lbs, and the shelf could be just a piece of wood or plastic stuck to the wall. Does anyone have any suggestions about making this shelf and how to stick it to the wall without drilling through?


texts: Troubleshooting a 120v load off a GFCI outlet

texts:
I have a 120v load im trying to troubleshoot, i replaced the GFCI located in garage as it's the first termination after the breaker and i thought it was the issue.

Before and after GFCI the issue was losing power to the garage door, and outdoor waterproof outlets (4 outside). I began by testing voltage on the outlets, and found the garage door outlet has 88v between hot and neutral, but 120v between hot and ground. I believe there is one WP outlet on the load before the low voltage outlet, and it is testing good 120v.

The other outlets after the garage door with the 88v have less than a volt on the live vs  neutral but good 120v between live and ground.

The thing i am really puzzled by is the outlets worked for about a week after the new GFCI, i plugged a string trimmer in and it didnt work so i was back to troubleshooting.

Two days later, i was going to pull the meter out and test voltage once more and a continuity test on the neutral line throughout, but voila the lights on the garage door lit up and started working.

A few hours later, door was still on so we decide to plug in a halloween inflatable to a waterproof outlet and see what happens... well what happened is it never blew up and the garage is back out and to 88v once again.

I have checked neutral continuity once before changing GFCI outlet and it was good. Since its happened again its making me lean back toward a break in the neutral; but why would it make again a few days later?! The house is only 2 years old and was built in 2015..

Since you read my long winded ordeal, whats your advice? Another GFCI? Maybe it IS neutral line.

Sorry I was a little tired last night after work.. some clarification.

The garage door outlet had 88v between live and neutral, and 120v between live and ground. I did not mean 120v between ground and neutral.

One WP (waterproof) outlet which i am GUESSING is before the garage door has tested good (120v between live/neutral and live/ground). The other waterproof outlets test less than 1v between live and neutral but 120v between live and ground.

I have had the outlets out, and i found no breaks in continuity between the neutral connections. Also don't see any issues as far as breaks in connections to the outlets.


texts:
Currently I have a 200-amp main panel located in the basement. I would like to install a subpanel in the garage. I will use to power my electrical tools, heater, and PC. The garage is part of the house.
Most likely I will need a 100-amp 2-2-2-4 wire to run from the main panel to the new sub-panel. Couple double pole breaker of 100-amp.
I would like to have at least 4 breakers for the tools, one breaker for the heater, one breaker for the PC to start.
Does the 100-AMP sub-panel will be enough?
Do I need to install an additional ground rod?
Any suggestion and advice will be appreciated.
Respectfully,
Bernard


texts: Installing washer/dryer combo in kitchen

texts:
Due to space constraints, I am planning to install 1 1/2 inch pvc piping through cabinetry to the sink tailpiece (with some type of tee) which will go straight down to the p-trap to the main kitchen drain. I have a poor ASCII diagram that describes the current thoughts. The V in the diagram is the opening where I will insert the drain hose from the washer. The height of 12 ft horizontal piping can only be adjusted about ±6 inches. Now assuming I do not run the kitchen sink while washing clothes, should this setup effective drain a load from a washer cycle.

V
|
| 12 inches
|
|              12 ft
+-----------------------------+
                              |              |
                              |         exit |
                  18 inches   |              |
                              |   -----------|
                              \__/           |

I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you from a novice.


texts: Can I add a "C-Wire" to boiler with this device?

texts:
https://www.amazon.com/FAST-STAT-Common-Thermostat-Extender-Connection/dp/B01N6ERM04/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D3D121DG0B4379V2TRC6

On the surface it appears that it will work.
Here is a picture of the box for that zone. I see power coming in (top), existing two wires from the thermostat (top brown) and wires going to pump (bottom). Is this considered a dry contact switch? It's not clear how I would hook up such a device to this though.


texts: glueing 18 gauge s/s sheets to aluminum honeycomb backing

texts:
I am involved in a project that requires gluing 18 gauge s/s sheets to 3/4" aluminum honeycomb panels.
what is the best contact adhesive to use that will withstand outside elements?
( extreme cold and extreme heat?)


texts: Can I hang over-the-door organizers from exposed drywall?

texts: One of the walls in my laundry closet is open into the adjacent closet between the ceiling and the raw edge of the top of the drywall (about a foot gap). Is it safe to use over-the-door hooks to hang a shelf or shoe organizer from this drywall?


texts: Ideas to install stand-alone light on ceiling without nails or screws

texts:
In the ceiling there is no light box and I can't insert nails or screws.
I need to install a square LED light fixture, weighting 1.4 lbs, that is fed by the outlet. Maximum I can do is to damage the painting when I decide to remove this light fixture, because I can paint again later.
The wire is very light in weight and is already in place using a double sided tape.

All that is left is to be able to "glue" this square LED fixture on the ceiling.

What ideas to you have to keep this square LED light fixture in place?
I thought about these Command Strips, however I think they will fell in a couple of days, they are not meant to have force pushing horizontally, only downwards. They are not meant to be used in ceilings.

I also thought about these strong, permanent mounting strips (the red ones)?

I also thought about using a little of silicone, do you guys think it would work? Silicone has helped me in many ways before, not sure if it is effective in painted wall/ceiling.

The main question here is how to attach, in a secure way, this flat square LED light on the ceiling, without damaging the ceiling when installing or removing (damaging the paint is fine), probably using some kind of adhesive.

Any ideas are welcome!

Thank you!


texts: How to protect exterior galvanized flashing?

texts:
With ships, they'll bolt zinc blocks on, can I "re-galvanize" metal?

I ask as I have some flashing that was likely installed in 1938. It was galvanized and is in reasonably good shape.  But replacing it would be very expensive and hard, as it laps under the stucco.  What can do to extend its life?  Or will it rust under the stucco first anyway, making a external treatment moot?

Here's the specific flashing, with two rows of tile removed: