texts:
I would like to make some bookshelves similar to what is seen here:

My question is how to nicely mount these to the wall.  Obviously I could simply angle some screws into the wall studs, however I think that'd look a bit messy and would like to hide the mounting method.


texts: GFCI seemed to fizzle and pop, and now works as a non-GFCI outlet - what happened?

texts:
An outdoor GFCI that's under a covered porch has been working fine for a long time, but recently started failing to turn off when the 'test' button is hit. Here's what I observed.

Right after plugging something into the outdoor GFCI outlet, the GFCI and a light that gets power from it both turned off. I realized I may have accidentally hit the 'test' button on the GFCI while plugging this bulky plug in, which has happened before. I pressed reset and as expected, the light and outlet both got power back, but once power was back I could here an electric fizzling sound. I pressed reset again and firmer, and while depressed the power was off and when released the power and fizzling sound came back. I pressed test intentionally to see if that was working, and it did cut the power. Upon pressing reset a few moments after that, the power and fizzling sound came back, and then after a second or two a sudden pop and flash of blue from within the outlet, as if something arced. Power stayed on, and now when I press 'test' nothing happens and when I press 'reset' power is off when depressed and on when released. The outlet seems to function normal aside from 'test' not cutting power (and the test button itself appears half-depressed and not being fully released).

I'm wondering what could've happened, and what to watch out for if opening this up. Will simply replacing the GFCI be good enough, or should other follow up measures be taken to ensure safe functioning?


texts:
I have 2 Belimo actuators

that control dampers for A/C ducts in my house that the motor has gone bad on. I can't find much info about the model "LM24-T US" so I think it has been discontinued. I don't see it listed on their Replacement list though so I have no idea what to replace it with. Any suggestions?


texts: I want to change the classical electrical switches in my newly purchased house to smart switches and I am very confused in regard with the electrical wiring carried out by the home developer. The smart switches are making references to red, white, black and yellow wires while the attached image indicates that 3 out of the 4 wires are black. Any suggestion how I can sort out these connections ?


texts: How awful is it to have asbestos in the drywall?

texts:
I am in the process of buying a ranch-style house constructed in 1972 and my online research just made me aware of the possibility that the entire house's drywall contains asbestos. If I have it tested, and the test comes back positive, my impression is that I would need to disclose this fact to any future buyers.

Two questions:

Would this disclosure absolutely annihilate the resale value of the property and make it un-sellable without re-drywalling the whole-house? Is this an "ignorance is bliss" type of situation?
How dangerous is it really to have asbestos in drywall that's not disturbed? Is it really true that you can knock asbestos fibers loose just by putting a nail in the wall? Is this type of hazard something not really worth worrying about?

The primary occupants will be two mid-twenties adults and one 16-month old child, with more on the way.


texts: How I can make wood stop sliding once I plane it?

texts:
I bought a hand plane in order to smooth and level my cuts I do using my hand saw. Before I use it in my project I tested it in a scrap piece of wood.
But once I started planing the wood, the wood itself was sliding on the table I used as my work bench.
Therefore, how I can make my wood to stop moving once I plane it?


texts: What size wire do I need? 225' run/100 amp subpanel

texts:
I am looking to install a 100 amp sub from my main. The run is aprox. 225' from the main panel down into my lower front yard.
The panel will be used to power a:

30amp service for my RV
provide power for my recording studio/office in a 12x16 shed with:

10 15 amp receptacles
a 120v electric wall heater
a 5k BTU 120v window ac unit (later I will switch to a mini split).

I am trying to figure out what size wire to use and the breaker I need for the main panel to supply power to the sub.
I have 1 unused 20 amp breaker/spot open in the panel (old electric dryer line no longer in use available).
I will not be buying a larger RV and there will be no shop tools used in the shed
THANK YOU to everyone who has commented, I really appreciate the input!!!!


texts: Need help with wiring a motion wall switch

texts: I brought two motion wall light switch to replaced two regular on and off switches. I install the one upstairs first and it seems to work ok. I them installed the 2nd one downstairs, but I'm not getting anything on the downstairs switch. I hooked the up the same way as the one upstairs. Any help would be appreciated.


texts: Can I raise the ceiling Without having joists visible

texts: I would like my plaster board ceiling to be raised in my children's bedroom as we are installing a loft bed and do not have a comfortable amount of space between the bed and the ceiling. Is there any way I can raise the ceiling without having the joists visible? Am I able to raise even half of the ceiling 600mm (about 2 feet)?


texts:
Hi, some fools did pull ups on my door frame and the top section gave way. It won't budge when I try to push it back up (although I didn't put much force into it) , so I was thinking that perhaps the best way to go about repairing it would be to tear it off and use some adhesive (Elmer's wood glue?) to put it back on.

Does that seem to be a reasonable course of action and are there any considerations I should keep in mind beforehand? I haven't really dealt with anything of this sort before so all advice is appreciated.


texts: Why is my downstairs shower pressure lower than upstairs?

texts: My shower pressure in my upstairs bathroom is fantastic. However, the same cannot be said for the downstairs bathroom (ground floor). Given the fact that upstairs is disadvantaged, this does not make sense unless there is a pump serving that bathroom alone which i don't think there is. So i want my downstairs shower to reflect the upstairs one. I'm not entirely sure but i think the question is how do i decrease the pressure in order to increase water velocity. Or how to I increase the flow to increase velocity. My hot water is supplied by a gas boiler.


texts: Should I install insulation between the rim joist and the top of foam insulation?

texts:
I am in the beginning phases of finishing my basement, newer house with poured cement foundation and engineered I-beam floor joists. No moisture issues in the basement.

Rim joist currently has a batt for insulation and that's it. My plan is to replace that with 2" XPS and foam spray and then another batt (probably just reuse what's already there).

On the foundation walls, I am going to use a thinner XPS all the way up to the joists, frame out with 2x4 and insulate with batts, then drywall.

I think I have a good understanding of these 2 parts, but am not sure what to do where they intersect. It seems to me that if I don't somehow seal the top to the foam wall insulation it will allow air to flow in behind the rim joist insulation. I've not seen this particular issue addressed anywhere, so maybe it's not really a problem? I'm trying to err on the side of extreme caution since I am doing this myself, and dont want to headaches down the road.

Found this:

at BuildingScience.com

Which seems to be recommending a strip of XPS between the rim joist wall insulation.

Thoughts?


texts: My 1950's era house doesn't have any electrical receptacles in the bathroom. Doesn't the Building Code state there should be? I reside in California N.A.


texts: How do I get the shine back on the bottom of my acrylic shower stall?


texts:
The glue in the pic is making me sick and I just want to temporarily cover it until I decide whether I will replace the whole floor etc.

I have some vinyl sheet lying around so I'd like to make use of it if possible. I thought I’ll just cut it to fit and then go around it with silicone(to prevent current adhesive or vinyl backing smell from coming out).

Will this work or what is the minimum I will need to do in order to temporsrily but somewhat effectively cover this beating in mind the edges will meet vinyl tiles.

Perhaps the new sheet needs to be cut, glued down and then something around to seal the underneath in.  Will caulk do it to go around?

Thanks


texts: Will silicone spray lubricant cause bare dry wood to swell?

texts: If wooden parts are binding, will silicone spray lubricant cause bare dry wood to swell?  The wood is not maple or oak or birch.  It is some type of softwood, maybe fir or pine.  The bearing surfaces are not painted or varnished, just bare wood.


texts:
I live in the northeastern US and we just turned the heat on (oil) and this morning I went down to the basement and saw this:

The water is coming from the plumping above something labeled "water expansion tank". In the picture below, you see the green patina forming over the copper pipes above the tank.

My questions:

What is a "water expansion tank"?
What does this tank have to do with my heating system? Is it just coincidence that it started leaking right after turning on the heat, or does the boiler engage the tank somehow?
What is the likely root culprit here, and how might I diagnose what is exactly wrong with it (and then, subsequently, fix it myself)?


texts: What cleaners are there in the market to use for Air duct duct cleaning?

texts:
My air ducts need to be cleaned:

My house is near to the mountains so I' am unable to get a duct cleaning company to come to my house. Can any body suggest me some cleaners used for air duct cleaning? Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks in advance.


texts: Requirements for Surface mount raceway using THHN

texts:
At the top of a 14' wall in a private residential (non commercial) work shop, I'd like to run about 100' of surface mount raceway, with THHN conductors inside of it. I plan to use 4"x4" raceway, for about 10-15 conductors (Despite being relatively large, it fits the space perfectly). I've read code saying you can put conductors in a raceway, but nothing that specifies any physical properties of that raceway. Can I use relatively lightweight PVC raceways with removable covers, similar to what I'd use for data cabling? (As seen in the picture) If not, what defines acceptable raceway?
Additionally, my plan is to knock out holes, and connect to the solid non-removable surface of the raceway using rigid conduit, for load center connections, surface mount outlets, etc. (In the same way I'd connect to any junction box). Is that acceptable?
Because of the out of the way location of the raceway I'm not worried about it being physically damaged, but I want to make sure the lightweight PVC raceway is acceptable from a code perspective.
California, USA

Thanks.


texts: What determines an air conditioning compressor's location?

texts:
I had air conditioning installed in my ground floor unit. I specified 2 locations where I'd like the compressor unit to go, but, whilst I was away at work, the installer ended up putting the unit in a really inconvenient location, blowing hot air directly into the small courtyard I have.

The compressor unit is directly outside and below the condenser unit. Is it feasible to get the installer to move it 3 to 4 meters away from its current location? Is it possible to just run the wiring and piping along the outer wall between the 2 units?


texts: Can I modify a load bearing triple stud?

texts:
I am installing a small safe in a wall and when I cut the opening in the drywall I noticed that the studs were in an unusual distribution. The stud on the right was normal but then there were multiple studs on the left - obviously a support column with a narrower than normal distance to the next stud.  This is too small for the safe. Question: Can I safely (and if so how) cut out the portions of the involved studs? Since there will be a sturdy metal object between the ends, is that good enough for weight distribution? Or is this just a really bad idea? On the right, the drywall is flush with the stud. On the left, only 2 of at least 3 studs is visible. The outer square in my text drawing below is the drywall cutout and the columns on the left are to represent the studs that are visible in that cutout.

I am a new user so I cannot post an image... My best txt version of this would be:

+-+-+-----------------+
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
| | |                 |
+-+-+-----------------+


texts: Reduce suds created from washing machine rinsing?

texts:
I live in a 6th floor of an old building with piping that clogs easily and frequently. We have to fix that, but it's expensive so we have to find temporary alternatives in the meantime.

Our washing machine has a drain hose that dumps the soapy water to a sink. The water coming out of the hose doesn't have suds, but as soon as it hits the sink, you can see the top layer of suds being formed. Our neighbor in the 1st floor sees these suds coming out of their dishwasher and rightfully complains.

On the other hand, to make sure it was the soap, we tested by filling the sink with plain water so it goes down the drain. The neighbor didn't see anything in her sink.

I know I can use less soap, but it will still make suds.

My question: what can I do to minimize the suds that go through the drain pipe? The ideal solution would be that the water in the sink does not have suds, so the water that goes down the drain does not have suds either.

Also, I just read that vinegar can reduce suds. But my concern is that the vinegar will reduce suds inside the washing machine and not the suds buildup in the sink when washing machine is rinsing.


texts: Should I vent a porch roof and how to do it?

texts:
I am having a difficult time figuring out the venting for my open air porch roofing project. This is new construction. I have a 4/12 pitch porch roof, 8ft wide, goes around 9 corners of my 2 story house, and has hips everywhere, 160 linear ft., 145 trusses and about 1400 sq ft of roof deck. It faces, North, West, and South covering 3 of the 4 sides of my square house. Roof shingles will be standard 30 year tar, 3 tab architectural in a darker (but not black) color. Titanium wrap + Ice and water shield underneath.

Should I vent at all?
So, this is western Montana. We get a lot of cold, and substantial wet all at once in the form of ice, snow and thunderstorms totaling about 14-16 inches a year. Overall it's fairly dry. I am in the lowest part of a river bottom valley and my place is often much more humid than others (above 80% for probably 50% of the year) due to fog settling etc. A lot of people don't know this, but we do get 90f+ degree temps for weeks or months at a time (up to maybe 110f on rare occasions for a few days). It's "Hot" from June to mid September. Rest of the year is cold < 50 degrees and down to negative -20s, -30s or colder.

If I need to vent, I know how to do this in the soffit, but no clue on the roof deck since the trusses join to a wall of a 2 story house. There is no ridge area aside from 7 or 8 hips, but mostly these are all in one area going around a turret and on 2 ends. Most of the roof area has no hips in 3 of the main sections, for 30-40 ft. I have looked at a few products which seem to go underneath your "wall to roof" metal or replace it entirely. No one in my area sells them or is aware of them. No one in my area as far as suppliers seems to know what roofers are doin to vent in this instance. I suggested we use ridge vent (black, plastic mesh) underneath roof-to-wall metal and one supplier thought that sounded crazy and would look ugly. Possibly correct about that.

Is it typical to just not vent? Realistically, how bad is this?


texts: Dual circuit track lights not working with dimmer switch

texts: My dual circuit track lighting will not work with dimmer switches but will work with single pole light switches. I purchased the correct dimmer switch to go with the LED bulbs I have. When connected to the dimmers one light works on both switches, none of the others do. Any ideas why? Thank you.


texts: How can I get a flex-bit unstuck if the shank is stripped?

texts:
We have a flex-bit stuck in wood - tried to drill it through the ceiling and the shank (bottom part of the bit) stripped so now it can't be "locked" to the chuck of the drill.
Is there any way to adapt a stripped shank/attach another drill bit/shank to it?

Follow up question - if you couldn't get it out - who would be the professional you'd call?


texts: How to stop the vibrations/sound produced by glass inside a room while playing a speaker system?

texts:
My room has a sealed glass (like window glass but we can can't open and close; its fixed to the frame). Whenever I play music in my 5.1 speakers, the glass starts vibrating making a "errrrrr/grrrrr" sound. It stops when I put my hand on the glass.

Any ideas to prevent the vibration sound, so that I could take my hands off the glass and enjoy the music?


texts: how long should I let latex paint dry before installing outlet covers and other fixtures?

texts: I've recently painted a room with latex paint.  To finish the room I need to reinstall outlet covers, as well as some other fixtures that screw to the wall.  I was wondering how long I should let the paint dry/cure before putting these on so that I minimize the chances of them sticking to the paint and peeling it up when they're removed in the future.  Any tips/tricks to minimize their adhesion to the paint?


texts: What was the purpose of this drain outlet and I would it be OK to floor over?

texts: Removed basement bathroom tiles and found a drain outlet which was tiled over. This bathroom is in the basement where we are adding laminate flooring. Was wondering why it is there and if it would be Ok to adding flooring over... or do I need to keep it accessible?


texts: Im trying to take apart a metal desk, but Im stuck on one part. Theres one spot where the screw is visible, but the nut isn't accessible, so when I turn it, it just turns both. Ive tried moving other parts, but no matter what I can't get to it. Is there anything I can do to get it out? Im ok with going hard on it, but I'd rather not ruin the desk, so powertools are mostly out of the question.


texts: Electrical issue, breakers not tripped but outlets dead

texts:
outlet died awhile ago from plugging in an air conditioner, it killed the whole room plus the hallway. breaker initially wouldnt reset, so i left it until i could get new outlets.

replaced the suspect outlet, noticed the left tab wasnt broken off but the right was. breakers are all on now, but still no power to the room. replaced outlet is hooked up the same way the old one was but nothing still.

should i just check every outlet and look for a missing connection or could there be something that happened to this outlet/breaker from the higher load of the AC due to the fact the tab wasnt broken off? thanks.


texts: Is this half wall with spindles load-bearing?

texts:
In the second picture the blue line shows the top plate for the half wall with spindles and the red highlights a beam of 2x12's.
I'm not sure if it is clear but the half wall ends at a 2x6 that has been added to beam.
Would it be safe to remove the spindles altogether?
If I need support can it be done from above?


texts:
I couple weeks ago, I had an electrician come in and remove two wires from two circuit breakers from the main panel. Those circuits power a sub panel across the basement. I found out that sub panel had a circuit breaker for the gas oven/stove and a circuit breaker for the dishwasher. I reconnected the wires to the two circuit breakers on the main panel.

The stove/oven works fine. The dishwasher doesn't turn on.

I bought a new dishwasher, because I thought there was a problem with the dishwasher, but the new dishwasher won't turn on either. I find it unlikely that the old dishwasher stops working at this time AND the new dishwasher doesn't power on, so I'm assuming it's a problem with the electricity.

I have a voltage tester, and it indicated that there was power going to the dishwasher. Would a dishwasher not turn on if there weren't enough amps? I plan on borrowing a multimeter from a friend today to check the amps going to the dishwasher. If there's not enough amps, would I have to run a new line to the dishwasher?

Thanks,
Jim

Edit:

I just tested the voltage and it came up with 8 - 11 volts. I checked the outlet next to me (on another circuit) to verify it was working correctly, and it showed 110.

Do I have to rewire?


texts: I've stripped woodchip wallpaper with lead paint on it. I think I have all the dust in my carpet and furnitre. What do I do?

texts:
I'm 17, I wanted to decorate my bedroom and decided to start stripping the wallpaper as my dad is working on other things at the moment (planning on moving house soon). Our house was built around 1974 so it's likely there is lead paint on the walls (or under a newer layer). I didn't cover my bed or my carpet or anything and now my carpet must have microscopic lead particles as i've read online can be quite dangerous. My mum has cleaned up my room (even though I said i'll do it) and she has vacuumed the bits of wallpaper up. I've heard that lead dust is blown into the air if you do that.

What is my risk of getting lead poisoning from airborne lead paint dust. I was wet stripping the woodchip wallpaper with a wet sponge after scoring the wall to help it penetrate easier.

My parents think i'm mad and I can't afford one of these "HEPA vacuums". Is my room that dangerous to live in and sleep in ? What can I do ?

Thanks


texts: How to deal with soil erosion under slab floor of garage?

texts: There is a small crack extending 10 feet down the center of the slab floor of my garage.  The floor sounds hollow when I hit it with a 2x4.  Also, there is a 4" water drain and I can feel air when I put my fingers under the slab.  It seems the soil under the slab floor has eroded away.  There is a high water table in my neighborhood. Most of my neighbors get water in their basements, but I do not (yet?) The crack does not seem to  have gotten worse over the 5 years I've lived here.  There are bedrooms over the garage.  What, if anything should I do about the floor of my garage?  Thank you.


texts: Do I need USA-color-coded wire on fixtures with flexible cable?

texts:
I often obtain lighting fixtures with flexible cords (but no plug) intended to be fed into a box and spliced.  (e.g. this LED flood light).

They are made in China for a world market, and have Euro color codes on the cordage: notably blue for neutral, with brown for hot and green/yellow for ground.

Do I need to tear the fixtures apart and replace the cordage with US color codes (green-white-black), or is the Euro-cord legal?


texts: How long can I expect my painted metal door to resist rust?

texts:
A number of older metal exterior doors (northern FL 1 mile inland) exhibit small rust spots, similar to petechiae on skin.

The first door lent itself to sanding and was sprayed with aerosol Kilz Primer\Sealer.

How many seasons can I expect the Kilz to stay white before the rust spots return?
If I spraypaint a second door without sanding, can I expect at least
2 years before rust spots return?

If you have experience with this matter please state this in your reply: thank you.


texts: How to connect Nest thermostat to Evaporative Cooler (Swamp Cooler)

texts:
I have reviewed the post here,

Controlling 110v swamp cooler using Nest thermostat

It discusses how to connect an evaporative cooler using 110v to a standard thermostat.

I am looking for a specific list of parts to purchase to make sure that I connect this in the correct manner. Has anyone else here on the site performed this kind of setup before?

Thank you in advance for you time and your feedback.


texts: Minimize the Refrigerator distance from the back wall

texts:
I would like to minimize (as much as possible) the distance of the refrigerator from the back wall. I already scrubbed as much plaster as possible from the back wall (behind the plaster is a concrete pillar and I don't want to dig in to that) and would like to push the refrigerator so it is touching the wall. I'm willing to build a ventilation system to take the hot air out but not sure if this is a good idea or will work.

What should be the nominal temperature at the back of a refrigerator? Is adding a vent a good idea? Any alternative solutions? Refrigerator is RF60J9000 and the recommended space in the back is 2" (50mm)


texts: Can I use bentonite as a lining for a normal swimming pool?

texts:
First, I'm open to alternatives and creative solutions, so the simple form of the question is, "Can I use bentonite as a lining for a normal (chlorinated) swimming pool?"  But, in case there are other solutions, I'm describing the situation.

I have an old barn about 300' behind my house, in a wooded area.  I'm going to be renovating the barn.  Near it is a lagoon, about 200' long by 25-30' wide.  I'm thinking of using the end of the lagoon that's near the barn as a swimming pool.  This is in the middle of the woods.  Even though we're going to have to clear the area around the pool and barn to some extent, we want it to look as natural and pleasant as possible.  (I do not want to use vinyl liners or anything like that.  Everything I read about them indicates they have to be replaced in under 10 years.)

Another issue is that this is a remote area, 1/2 a mile off the road, with several turns and the need to go over a creek crossing.  I'm not sure a truck carrying a fiberglass pool could make it back there and successfully unload a swimming pool form and place it properly.

I've been researching to learn about pools that use chlorine or salt water (and I know the salt water pools use chlorine from the salt), as well as natural pools.  I'm still trying to decide whether to go with a chlorinated pool or a natural pool.  While reading about natural pools, I see one good solution for lining the bottom is to use 3-4" of bentonite clay.

What I find frustrating is I don't find details on this anywhere.  I don't know if the clay hardens into a firm surface when tamped down and when water is over it, or if it's still slightly porous and still allows water to leak through it.  I also have no idea if the bentonite would interact with chlorine if I use it to line a chlorinated pool.

I have several reasons why, if I make a chlorinated pool, I want to use bentonite.  Naturally, I'm aware that it'll cost less than fiberglass or concrete.  But I also want the sides to slope down, from ground level, and into the pond, to give it a beach like feel.  Bentonite is also white (or white-ish), so it can look a bit like a sandy bottom.  While I could do slopes like that with concrete (which is the most expensive option), I can't do that with fiberglass.  (And I can't make a custom shape with fiberglass, either.)

With what I have learned, bentonite seems my best choice for a liner, but I don't know yet if I'll be making a natural pool or a chlorinated one and I'm open to suggestions for alternatives for lining the pool.

So can I use bentonite for lining a chlorinated pool?  And are there other suggestions, given the situation I've described, that might work better?


texts: Sprinkler zone and valve identification issue

texts: My sprinkler system has 4 zones that go to 4 valves. 1 goes to the front and 2-3 go to the back. All sprinklers are activated with these 3. However, zone 4 also activates its valve and I hear the water runing. No sprinklers go up since they only activate with 1,2 and 3. Where could this valve be sending water to?? 4 also has the water filter for some reason. I'm not sure if that means anything. Thank you!


texts: Do I have to replace my expansion tank, or can it be drained?

texts:
I have no heating. My plumber tells me that my expansion tank has water in it and should not be hot and therefore needs replacing (expensive job). is this true. Can the water not be drained out?

Greenstar highflow 440 combi boiler


texts: What can I do about this painted concrete?

texts: The previous owners of my home decided to paint the sidewalk and porch surfaces.  Not only are they painted but they are this horrible color.  Do you have any suggestions on what to repaint them with or any other cost efficient coating options for them?


texts: Bought a new house and noticed discoloration near the top corners of the drywall (Where the drywall meets the window). I chipped away at the moldy drywall. Wondering what type of product I should use to seal between the window and the wood frame (Would some type of caulk be appropriate?) Also how should I replace the drywall? Would using hot mud to deep fill this area work?


texts:
I have a shower drain cover which is loose.  I don't have any leaks, but the plastic grate that covers the drain hole is loose and slides around.  What kind of glue should I use to keep this plastic in place without making it too permanent?

Here is the bottom of the cover and the hole I wish it would stay in for a long while:


texts: What is this thing inline with my dryer vent?

texts: Just bought a condo with appliances included, and the dryer is underperforming. Went to check the vent hose and saw this:


texts: Can conduit just be left laying on the ground?

texts:
My contractor ran a 220V line from a box in our garage, through the rear wall of the house, to the rear kitchen wall to power the microwave and oven. Although the wires are encased in a PVC conduit, the line is just laying on the ground.

My understanding is that NEC requires the line be covered by at least 8 inches of dirt. My contractor says the line is NEC compliant. I checked with a PE Electrical Engineer and he said "No Way."

Should the line be buried?


texts: How can I hit studs and avoid cables when installing a TV mount?

texts:
I bought a suitable TV wall mount bracket (45"-55") for my 48" television, however, I have reservations about committing to the work. My concerns are

Should I look for a wall stud, and screw into that?
Will hollow wall bolts be strong enough to support the TV if I just mount it to the plasterboard?
What if I hit a power cable?

What techniques can I use to alleviate my fears?


texts: Replacing light and fan switches in a trailer bathroom

texts:
I am attempting to replace the light and fan switch in my bathroom.

When I pulled them out the type of switches they are is confusing me.  It appears that there are 2 wires going into the switch on the right, then jumped over to the next switch, then 2 wires going out.

Am I to pigtail the two wires going into the first switch and then pigtail the 2 wires going out of the second switch?

Also, how would i jump the 2 switches together, and would I have to jump all (black,white, and ground), or just the hot?

Will the switch I have work?


texts: Has anyone used those oscillating tools like the Fein Multimaster or the Harbor Freight version? Are they as awesome as the infomercials suggest? What jobs are they good for?


texts: How can I control lights on a 3-way circuit with a timer?

texts:
I have a roommate who comes home at night and leaves the f@$%ing light in the hallway on, and I find it really annoying. She's not malicious, just a bit distracted, so I want to install some sort of light switch or something that will automatically turn off after 15 minutes of being turned on.

This light is controlled by two switches, one at one end of the hallway and one on the other.

There are many programmable light switches, but they all seem to require a pre-set schedule, rather than an option to turn off after they were turned on, and also, I don't know how they interact with each other (since I would presumably need to install one in the switch at each end of the hallway).

Does anyone have any suggestions?


texts:
Just bought a house and took out old ugly garage-looking lights from the kitchen (long bulb in a frame with thin plastic covers), and cut some holes to put in 4 slim recessed LED lights. There are two switches controlling these lights, but I believe they’re connected in the wall because there’s only one source coming into the kitchen lights.
The problem is light number 4 is not turning on, and has a slow flicker. First three lights work fine.
I connected them the only way I expected lights to be connected in  a line (hot, neutral and ground go from source, to light 1, to light 2, to light 3, and terminate at light 4).
It is possible the wires aren’t tight. These LED lights use a little plastic piece where you insert the wires, rather than twisting them together. However at light 3, I clipped off the plastic piece for  neutral, stripped and Then twisted them in a nut because they kept slipping out.
Perhaps I need to look at hot wires in light 3? Clip the plastic piece, strip and twist them All together to ensure a tight connection?
Do I wire them in a ‘serial’ method where the neutral from source goes to light 4? Hot goes to light 1, then connect from 1-4 from neutral to hot, and light 4’s neutral connects with the source neutral?
Anything else to check?


texts: Installed Hardie board, silver side down as ceiling with tin applied as roof. Can this type of application withstand being the roof/ceiling in an outdoor kitchen with no side walls?


texts: I have a GFCI outlet in my powder room that needs to be replaced.  Is it significantly more difficult to replace a GFCI than an ordinary outlet?


texts: Can I move the expansion chamber to the side of the hot water heater?

texts:
I am needing to move the hot water heater into a space that is shorter than where it currently resides. It will have about six inches of clearance above the tank. So, due to this, I need to move the expansion tank. Can the tank be moved to be on the side of the hot water heater?

Followup Questions:

Does the expansion tank have to be above the top of the hot water heater?

Also, the copper pipe connecting the expansion tank to the heater, is welded together. I'm not comfortable with my copper welding skills. Are there other options for making this connection?

Unfortunately, after looking it over, I am not going to have any room for the expansion tape to go on top of the hot water heater. Checkout the diagram I've posted below. The black lines is the wall. This is how, in my mind, I will set it up. Question, how should I secure the lines going up to the water heater and the expansion tank? Anything else I should think about?

Do the vertical water lines need to be secured to anything? I could nail in a 2x4 to clip them to. For the expansion chamber, If I mount it horizontally on the side, do I just use some type of strap to take the weight off of it? Can it be strapped down directly to the floor joist?


texts:
I'm in the midst of a reno on my kitchen, which involves some reconfiguring of the placement of appliances. As a result, where the stove is going - and hence the range hood / blower vent location would come through the roof right near where the main electrical service attaches to the house and runs to the main panel.

My question is this: is there a minimum recommended / required distance between the range hood vent location and the main electrical connection coming from the utility to the house (I'm in CA if there's state specific code on this)? Its a very shallow pitch roof so I'm unable to elbow & run the ducting through the attic to come through the roof elsewhere. If I need a minimum separation I'll probably have to run a chase along the ceiling inside the kitchen to come through the roof far enough away from the electrical main.

Thanks for your help.


texts: Wiring disposal/dishwasher/outlets in island

texts:
In addition to my 2 dedicated small appliance circuits on the main counter, my kitchen has an island with sink and dishwasher.  I have two dedicated circuits available for the island and need to wire the dishwasher, the disposal, and the outlets on either end of the island.

What is the approved way to wire all three of these with two dedicated circuits? My instinct tells me disposal and one outlet on one circuit.  Dishwasher and other outlet on remaining. Both are 20A and both will be gfci.  Location is Ca.

Thanks!


texts: How far does bookcase have to be next to baseboard heater?

texts: How far does furniture have to be from the side of a baseboard heater? My bookcase will be 2 inches from the side of the baseboard heater, I would like it to be closer so I can use the outlet on the other side of the bookcase but will settle for 2 inches if I have to. Is that safe? I can only find information on how far curtains have to be away or something in front of heater but not from side. Thanks!


texts: Built-in bookshelves: removing metal runners / standards

texts: There are built-in bookshelves in our place and (for some reason) they used metal standards / runners for the shelves in a way that is clearly visible even when you have the shelves stacked with books. :( So, I'm looking to remove the runners, but they either used nails or screws that are stripped and so I'm concerned about damaging the wood that the runners are attached to when I remove them (likely with a small crowbar?). Any advice on how to do this while causing the minimum amount of damage? Thanks!


texts: How do I label fluorescent fixtures converted to LED?

texts: I am going to replace some regular fluorescent tubes that are about to burn out with LED ones and would like to add a sticker inside the fixture to advise a future owner to not install regular fluorescent tubes, but I can't seem to think of a concise verbiage for said sticker. I don't know:"Fixture not wired for regular fluorescent use""Do not install regular fluorescent tubes"Any suggestions?Edit: How 'bout this: "Use with standard fluorescent tube requires rewiring; consult a licensed electrician"


texts:
Have a 1/2 HP sump pump running a DIY water Fountain in 1/2 Acre pond. Pump is on 20Amp GFCI plug.
Pump will run for about 4 hours and then trip the GCFI. Replaced the GFCI plug, have checked to make sure all connections are seal tite. Why do we run for a period of time and then trip?


texts: Intermittent pilot light furnace giving up before igniting pilot light (Lennox G20 WhisperHeat)

texts:
Background:
I have a Lennox G20 WhisperHeat furnace (on natural gas) with an intermittent pilot light. The unit is around 25 years old, and has functioned flawlessly until recently.
The problem:
Intermediate Pilot light won't light.
Detailed description:
I am familiar with the steps of how an intermittent pilot light furnace works. My furnace is failing to light itself. Here is what is happening with my furnace: the thermostat calls for heat, the damper opens, the pilot valve opens, and the igniter fires for a second or two. Then it stops and nothing more happens. I can hear gas coming out, and spark is present, but the flame does not light. The sparking stops after 1-2 seconds but stops before a flame is present. However, I discovered if I supply 24v to the terminal on the gas valve to prompt the ignition sequence, and hold it for about 2-3 seconds, then the intermittent pilot light will light itself (and in turn light the burners). It seems that the pilot ignition works but the control board gives up before it successfully lights. If I jump the PV for 2-3 seconds to help it light, the furnace will fire up properly and run a heat cycle all on its own. The only problem is that it is giving up before it successfully lights the pilot light.
What could be my issue? I would assume control board, except for the fact that it works 100% once I help it start. I have already cleaned the flame sensor and pilot jet tip. Thanks in advance!


texts:
tl/dr: It seems a finicky blender killed my outlet - My blender initially turns on but then stops after a moment, and won't turn back on.  I plugged a night light into one plug and it turns on initially but then turns off once inserted fully.  The night light works fine in the other plug.  The blender doesn't work properly in either plug.  Do I just need to replace my outlet?

The incident
I had some trouble with my blender: I accidentally broke part of the lid, and it is one of those blenders that has built in "catches" to make sure it doesn't run without the lid on correctly.  I already had my food in so I attempted (with some success) to continue blending anyway.  However, the blender was finicky and kept turning off despite my efforts.  Eventually it stopped turning on altogether.  I figured the blender just didn't appreciate my efforts and switched blenders (the other one wasn't ideal for my meal, which is why I didn't try it sooner).
The Symptoms
A bit later I realized that, in fact, the whole outlet was acting wonky.  Namely, the other blender also had trouble with it.  It initially turned on, but then stopped turning on too.  I moved a few feet to the next outlet and the new blender worked fine.
I then got out a "night light" to test the wonky outlet.  In one of the plugs the light worked fine (which is the same plug the new blender was plugged into and didn't work).  In the other plug (the one the broken blender was plugged into) it only lit up if I had it partially plugged in - once it was fully plugged in it turned off.  Obviously the outlet has issues.  To recap and provide more details:

The outlet provides power, but apparently not enough for a blender
One plug worked fine for a low-power device, but the other plug stopped working when the light was plugged in all the way.
No breaker circuits are tripped
There is one GFCI outlet in the kitchen, on a different wall.  I confirmed that this outlet is not controlled by the GFCI
I'm 95% sure that this outlet isn't on a GFCI at all
There are additional outlets on this wall in the kitchen, and they all work fine (in fact I finished my lunch by using the fully-functional blender plugged into another outlet just a couple feet away).
There are no signs of physical damage to the outlet

The question(s)
I'm guessing that the blender turned on/off a little to quickly for the outlet and damaged it in some way.  My presumption is that I just need to replace the outlet, which I have done before.   However, I'm always very cautious about electrical issues and will happily get an electrician if there is any sign that there is more to this issue than it seems.  So, my questions (the first one is the only one I need answered):

Does it sound like the only issue is a faulty outlet that needs to be replaced?
Does a blender turning on/off repeatedly seem like the sort of thing that could break an outlet?  I don't think my blender actually cycled that many times, and I'm mildly concerned that there was more wrong with this outlet and my blender was just "the straw that broke the camel's back".
In particular, might this be a sign that my blender is trash?  A broken lid is a lot cheaper to replace than an entire blender.

And because a picture is worth 1000 words:


texts: How do I wire a new ceiling light with 2 red wires?

texts:
I bought a new ceiling light, but the wires are complicated.
It has 2 red wires and one green ground wire. There are 2 white wires too but they are connected by themselves.
My ceiling has 1 black wire , 1 white wire , 1 ground wire. Do the wires work with only the matching color ports?
Can I connect the 2 red wires from the ceiling light fixture to the black wire from the ceiling, but leave the white wire out?


texts: When connecting LED tape lights to a transformer, should I daisy chain the strips or install home runs for each strip?

texts:
I'm in the planning stage for adding under cabinet LED tape lighting. I have four seperate cabinet areas to reach.

Before I drywall I'm planning to install a standard wall switch that goes to an outlet that will be in the upper part of the cabinet.

Later I can then add a low voltage transformer and a remote dimmer in that cabinet. My question is how to get power to four different cabinet areas. I have attic access.

Is it possible to attach homeruns to the transformer, or do I need to daisy chain down and have a wire go down each cabinet and back up to get to the next one.


texts: Generac Generator with Carrier Infinity Heat Pumps

texts:
I've signed a contract to install a Generac 22.5 kW whole house generator and transfer switch in our home outside Boston.

Our home has Carrier Infinity 3 ton heat pumps installed on the first and second floors.  The first floor has hydronic backup heat and the second has electric backup heat.

In order to avoid overloading the generator, the transfer switch sheds individual heavy loads when the total load gets too high.  I talked to my HVAC dealer about how to implement the load sheding feature for the heat pumps.  Initially we discussed the utility curtailment feature which allows utility companies to shed a heavy load in a home when the load on the grid is so heavy that it strains the utility's ability to maintain power.  However it turns out that this feature works for cooling but not heating, which won't work here because both heating and cooling loads must be shedable.  That leaves the conventional approach of removing power from the heat pumps and electric backup heat.  This is done by Generac System Management Modules (SMMs) that are connected to each load to be shed and disconnect the power to the load when needed.

The HVAC dealer consulted with their Carrier distributor rep who has said at times that "generator applications should always be designed by an electrical engineer".  Also at one point he recommended that the heat pumps be disabled when the generator is running, which of course would defeat the main purpose of the generator.

I'm concerned by the comments from the Carrier rep.  It may be that he's just being extra cautious but I can't be 100% sure.  Has anyone used a whole house generator with in Infinity heat pump?  Have they implemented load shedding by disconnecting power to the heat pumps?  I just want to make sure I'm not doing something that will cause problems in the future.

Thanks,
Mike


texts: Plywood, MDF or Chipboard for painted bookshelves?

texts:
I am starting to plan some built-in bookshelves that will be painted with mat or eggshell paint.

The fronts of the shelves and upright will be moulded maybe with a router or softwood mouldings glued on.    We have not yet decided if the shelves will be fixed, or adjustable using an inset bookcase strip.

The two areas of concern I have are:

I don’t wish the shelves to slag under the weight of the books.
I want a good paint finish.

MDF gives me the good finish and the option to router edges; however is it stiff enough for book shelves?

Chipboard is a cheap option, but can I router slots in it for the bookcase strip?

Is it possible to get a good paint finish on plywood without spending a long time sanding it?


texts: I am replacing a 240v wall a/c unit with a 120v one at my workplace. There is no main shut off at the box. Breaker is DP 20A. I would like to move the red wire to the neutral bus with the breaker off to convert this circuit. Along with replacing the outlet. Anyone see problems doing this?


texts: Indoor A/C fan doesn't stop automatically

texts:
The fan on my indoor A/C unit doesn't stop when the dialed in temperature is reached. It keeps a constant temperature just fine and the outdoor unit motor shuts down when the temperature is reached. I just find it strange (and wasteful) that the indoor blower never stops running, even on auto.

Is this normal? I read somewhere that this might be intended since the thermostat is embedded in the indoor unit and needs a constant airflow to read the room temperature. Only found this info in a single place so I'm not sure how credible this is.

My unit is a Daikin FTX-KV.


texts: Bedroom over garage with shallow roof with no insulation with temperature problems

texts:
There is a similar question on here "What can I do about a room over the garage with temperature problems?"  I certainly found some help in that thread as to correcting the cold floor.

However; I believe there are more to my problem.  The roof over our bedroom is a shallow pitch that is tongue and grove on the inside with no insulation.  There are six beams that carry the load of the roof exposed inside the room.  With no insulation currently in the ceiling, any heating is not being trapped in the room.

I'd like to use a spray foam on the tongue and grove joints to help seal any leaks.  Once that is done, I'll need to building structure between the beams.  They are 3' wide cavities and 10" in depth.  I was thinking about using 2X8"s as the structure for the insulation.  Allowing the bottom of the beams to remain exposed to the room.

I could get you the actual void dimensions if that helps. Vertical or horizontal insulation is still a question I have.

Beyond that, per the other question, I need to pull the ceiling the garage in order to remove the existing insulation.  Hire someone to come in and spray foam the joists with a high density cellulose.

Thank you


texts:
The extended sill would have a depth of about 2 inches.

If I were to extend the window sill using the below approach, would that be strong and stable enough? I may plan to add an additional interior window on that sill.

What can I do about the gap so that it is not noticeable? I am not a woodworking candidate, so I would want to not have to do any wood cutting if that's possible.

Also, if the extended sill is not at the height as the existing window sill, can I add a spackling or wood plastic paste to match their heights? Would that cause any issues when I add additional window on that?

Can I use this updated design instead ? The image also has the 4 positions in which I will screw. Also, I have extended the support to touch the wall.


texts: Are existing non-tamper-resistant outlets grandfathered in NEC?

texts: My residence is a town home built in the late '90s, thus having non-tamper-resistant outlets.  I assume that they are grandfathered in NEC?  Am I required, by NEC, to install tamper-resistant when replacing an outlet?


texts:
After shutting off the main water supply (at the end of my driveway) and removing the faucet handle and the spout, the pipe from the spout still drips water after two hours. I was trying to replace the cartridge, but I can't get the final ring of to remove the old cartridge. I sprayed with W-4  in the hope that thing loosens, but no movement.
I don't know what brand it is, but it is white and much bigger than the ones I see on videos.


texts: How can I remove exhaust pipe cover that's sealed with silicone?

texts:
I want to remove and replace the exhaust pipe cover shown in the picture below, but I can't get it off.

The wall is made up of (in the order from outer most material to the inner most material:

Ceramic tiles
Membrane (the kind you apply with a paint brush)
12 mm Wet room boards
10 mm Pine panel wall (for strength)
Glass wool insulation

There is a pipe coming from the fan engine that stops a ~4-5 centimeters from the outer wall layer. In order to protect the inside of the wall against moist, wet room silicone was used to cover all the places where moist could enter the wall. Unfortunately, it seems the cover was put in place while the silicone was still wet, and now I can't get it off.

Do you have any tips for how I can remove it, without risking to damage the wall. I can buy a new cover, so if I have to break it, that's fine.


texts: How do I tell if dried flooring glue is oil-based or water-based?

texts:
I removed vinyl flooring that was glued down (by a previous owner) in the 1990's, and there is a significant amount of dried glue left behind on the concrete floor.

The self-leveler and glue that I will be using for the new flooring has different floor preparation requirements depending on whether the old glue is water-based or oil-based.  How do I figure out which it is?


texts: The left side of my kitchen stopped working recently. I replaced the breaker with no avail. I then took off the breaker and tested the black wire itself. It reads 0v how do I replace this wire?


texts: Should I replace the plywood subfloor when replacing the ceramic tile?

texts: If I remove (break) the existing ceramic tiles with the intention of replacing them with new porcelain tiles, there will be hardened thinset left on the subfloor. I suppose I should just remove the entire plywood subfloor and replace it with a new one, instead of bothering to grind off the thinset?


texts: Can I add a sink drain to a stack serving the floor above?

texts:
A local plumbing company (big name) said that anything draining from upstairs would suck my p-trap dry. I asked about the mechanical vents, and he said it would not work. He went on to tell me that connecting was not advised and he would not accept the work.
Basically, I just want to tie into the 3" drain from upstairs with a sanitary Tee for a small sink. Adding the mechanical air vent before the P-Trap should eliminate any concerns around draining it, no? He also said if there was a backup, I'd have waste water issues, but isn't that the same for any other drain further down the line (like my master bath)?


texts:
I'm looking to buy/make some lights that turn on when they detect light. My wife and I live in an apartment that's small and poorly-lit. We can't install permanent light fixtures, and all the lamps we've looked at take up too much floor space or would have to be placed in walking areas to be useful. So I'm looking for some kind of light fixture that can be mounted on a wall or ceiling with command strips or small nails.

I'd like some lights that turn on when other lights are turned on. Like the opposite of a night light. That way we can still control all the lights in a room with one switch without changing the wiring. The light controlled by the switch would turn more lights on.

I think I could easily build a circuit to do this, with a photoresistor and some NPN transistors, but I don't have the tools to make something that would look nice right now. Is there already a commercial product that would fit our needs?


texts: Can an electric dryer be next to the gas furnace?

texts: I intend to relocate my washing machine and electric dryer within the basement.  The dryer will then be about 2 feet from the furnace.  Is that OK?


texts: Is there a push in 1/2"x3/8" MNPT coupling?

texts:
I have this shower column https://www.baindepot.com/media/ftpbaindepot/pdf/SH-PN-7001BN.pdf
It has 3/8" hoses that connect to a 3/8" MPT connectors
I am trying to improvise a stub out solution with an 1/2"x3/8" push in coupling attached to the below stub out elbow.
I can't find any 1/2"x3/8" MNPT push in coupling

The shower column hose connector looks like this (also see the PDF)


texts: Does one way check valve reduce the water pressure?

texts:
I am getting very low pressure due to my tank height in home. Input of tank got high pressure but not whole time. Something like below.

What my idea is directly connect input to low pressure end as below diagram. I have a doubt one way valve is reduced the pressure of high pressure end and low pressure end.

If I use like this, will I get high pressure when its available? (I do not have good idea how check valves are working)

Thanks


texts: Can narrower inside of gate valve reduce pressure by losses?

texts:
I notice a ppr 3/4" gate valve has narrower inside compared to a 3/4" bronze gate valve which has wider inside. I guess the pressure inside the bronze gate is stronger? I wonder why would they make the ppr gate valve smaller inside.

The white one has the following inside it
!


texts: How do I shut off the ceiling fan without a pull chain?

texts:
So, I move into my new house.  The first hour, my mother-in-law decides to try out the ceiling fan.  She turns the unit on at the lightswitch, then pulls the chain right out of the unit.  The fan is now on at max whenever the unit is turned on.

I still have pull chains to turn on and off the light, and a chain to reverse the direction.  Those two switches however do not stop the fan.

I may replace the pullchain in the future, but for the time being, is it possible to shut off the fan somehow without the chain?  Would it be possible to, for example, bridge the switch connection, then flip the breaker a couple times to switch the fan off?  Any other ideas?


texts: How many circuits should I include in a sub-panel for workshop?

texts:
I am looking to run a sub panel for a basement workshop approx 60 feet from the main panel, all inside. I have a table saw, jointer, band saw, planer, and dust vacuum, as well as routers and such. I was going to run a 60 amp breaker to a 100 amp sub with 6/3 cable. I wanted to run a higher breaker but then I am getting into much more money in the wiring.

My table saw draws 13 amps, and the planer draws 15. At some point down the road I plan on upgrading to larger tools, but for now they are more consumer grade.

In the panel I can run 3 20 amp breakers... lighting is actually run on another panel. Will 2 circuits be enough, or should I do 3?  Any other ideas and recommendations are greatly appreciated!


texts: Stalling roof turbines to improve air flow?

texts:
My landlord claims that roof turbine ventilators move more air when they do not spin—e.g. by stalling it using a piece of wire tied through the vent and the brace. His reasoning, roughly, is that when the turbines are spinning, all it is doing is equalizing the pressure, and claims to observe that the air in the attic is still; whereas when the turbines are stalled, he claims to have observed more air, dust, etc. moving around and leaving the attic.

I fail to see how this could be the case. My understanding of pressure equalizing is that it means that air must be flowing from high pressure (in the attic) to low pressure (outside). By allowing the turbine to spin freely, there would be less resistance/reactive force that keeps the air from moving out of the attic; whereas when the turbine is stopped, the air moving out of the attic wants to move the turbine but it can't (i.e. more resistance). And when something (e.g. wind) spins the turbine, then the turbines will pull air out of the attic; immobilizing the turbine means no air will be pulled out.

I will not be able to correct him if he is wrong (he made up his mind 30+ years ago). But in case I run into anyone else actually interested in a response to his argument, I'd like to be able to explain this better. What would be a more intuitive/straightforward/easy-to-understand/etc. way to explain this?


texts: How can I repair or remove my bathroom sink's tailpiece?

texts:
I easily removed the S bend pipes, but the "last piece" actually in the sink is leaky.

(I do not know what that piece is called.)

Notice I've got it a bit loose .. close up ..

close up underneath ...

is there a special tool for this maybe?
notice the last large image - that large plastic turnable collar/bolt - in fact, is my problem just that I have to turn that? It's very hard to turn more, unclear if it can turn more. (If so I will get more purchase on it and do so, but maybe that's not the issue?)
last image - notice the black flange-thing against the white sink, has a kind of notch to our left - is that relevant to my problem ?!
notice the unit has the "stopper inside the drain".  I hate those, so, I will ideally replace it with just an ordinary plain one, no stopper mechanism. (So, up top the silver pull handle behind the taps will just do nothing.) Is that OK, no pitfalls?
If it works out, do you use a sealant?? or such putting the new piece in?
Finally - I know every detail of how to, say, plaster a wall. But I always get a plasterer to plaster a wall! Is this one of those things where you really need someone who has done it 1000 times, to end up with a perfect seal?  (The whole point here is it has a drip I can't beat.) Should I just get a plumber?

Maybe I have H.U.A. and the drip is not related to this, I mean, perhaps replacing this piece is misguided in some way?


texts: How to safely run power out to pond pump?

texts:
I built a pond that is about 50 feet from the house and nearest outlet and need to run a pond pump in it. The pond is too large for the solar-powered pumps I have seen.
I considered simply buying a long extension cable, but we recently had a flash flood, and had I run the cable out, it would have been a foot underwater.
Is there a safe way to run power out to the pond pump?


texts: What's the deal with Whirlpool "Better than Inverter" refrigerators?

texts:
I've been looking around for a new refrigerator and one thing that stands out to me among the current lineup is that Whirlpool seems to be the only one not coming up with an inverter fridge. Instead they market their conventional fridges as "better than inverter." They supposedly cool faster and are even more energy efficient, and they actually have some measurements from a third party power lab to back up their energy efficiency claim.

Can anyone shed more light on the details behind the marketing hype? Surely there must be some drawback, or everyone else would be doing the same thing?


texts: what can i do with this old weird tub combo?

texts: I am replacing this old tub/shower combo with a built in tub for the ceiling...can i just take out the entire upper tub & framing and drywall like a normal shower? I've never seen this before.


texts: What can be done to mitigate risk to property from large trees other than removal?

texts:
There are 3 oak trees that need to be removed as they pose risks
to personal safety and property during windstorm. The last windstorm (dec. 2019, AK) produced 120 m/h gusts. The quote is $6k due to complexity  plus a crane will need to be utilized to accomplish the task.
Is there anything else could be done?


texts: Installing Ladder in Historic Brick Garage

texts:
Just bought an old home with a detached 1905 brick garage w/ loft. Currently, the only way to access the space is by pulling out a ladder and climbing through a 16" opening at the end. I'd like to install a ladder for easier access to ultimately build out a loft space. Garage specs, specific questions, and photos below:
Garage Specs

3 layers of brick
17'9" by 19'4"
12 joists running horizontally (19'4"). Joists are 2x8s w/ 14" between them
Joists run strait into the brick -- not connecting to the roof trusses which run into the brick 2' above
Garage attic has electrical, window, and work benches. Appears to have been used (but not receently)

My Questions

Any concerns about structural integrity from what you read/see? Do I need to consider reinforcing the current joists?
What are my options for installing a ladder? I could cut/reinforce one joist and install an attic ladder, but would love something that provides even easier access. Is it possible to cut a corner and install a small spiral staircase? Would love other ideas for easy access without taking up too much garage space.


texts: Is my plan to use Alexa to turn on a fireplace reasonable?

texts:
I have a fireplace (gas) with a constant 0.5V low voltage current as the igniter connected to a single pole switch.  I would like to add Alexa via a 120VAC separate smart switch that has a timer that will be set for 2 hours.  I plan to retain the current low voltage switch as a "seasonal switch" in the circuit that will keep the low voltage side inactive except during the short winter when it is active.

The setup: There is a 3 way switch just above the low voltage switch, and has 120VAC in a red wire common when tested to ground.  The switch currently powers nothing that I have been able to find and cannot find a second three way connected to it anywhere.  I plan to replace the current three way with the smart switch (requires a neutral plus two wires) and use the currently hot red wire to power the smart switch (120V), and the hot wire plus ?pigtail from neutral white to power a 120V-5V transformer that then activates a relay for the low voltage circuit for the ignition.

Is this a viable setup?  Should I just cap the black wire travelers to the current 3 way switch?


texts: Do I need to sand this unfinished table?

texts:
I've gathered that the step immediately before staining a table is to sand it. However, I wonder how to tell when the table is smooth enough? Can I skip the sanding step?

In my case I bought an unfinished pine table (new, not antique) which, to my touch, is rather smooth. Running my finger across the tabletop, I can only feel the largest grains. I even see some sawdust around the drawers, which makes me think it was already sanded.


texts: Why is water only coming through the handheld hose?

texts:
I have a hose at my kitchen sink, installed alongside the cold water faucet.  Every once in awhile when I press the hose trigger, it becomes stuck and will not return to the off position automatically, and water will not come out of the faucet. A few clicks of the trigger and it returns to normal.

Yesterday I used the hose ... only now it has not returned to off position. I've unscrewed the nozzle portion and see nothing that is clogged or jammed. With the nozzle head off, water still comes through the hose itself, leading me to believe that there is always water in the hose and that pressing the nozzle releases water that is already there.

Perhaps what is happening is that the nozzle is no longer "holding back" the water?


texts: Alternative to electric heaters in bedrooms?

texts:
I would like this system serviceable, cost effective & relatively maintenance free.
I just don't know the best way to go about it. I am sick of using a oil filled heater over winter.

My original idea is to plumb water from the wet back (we have a small wood range) hot water cylinder to power a water filled radiator, I figure I'm gonna need a hot water circulating pump.

What do you suggest / use to cut back on that power bill?


texts:
My sink started leaking - it looks like I need to replace all of the seal/gasket type things between the basin and the garbage disposal.

Top side:

Bottom side:

I am guessing that the steel part on the top side can be disconnected from the black plastic part, but I don't know that for sure, so I'm not going to go ripping at it until someone on the internet tells me to.

How do I seal each side of this back up?

The model is Pulverator P10. I couldn't find a manual online.


texts: Determining if a foundation is moving or shifting?

texts:
I am finding circumstantial evidence that leads me to believe that my house is settling from the foundation moving or shifting. I've found brand new grout done by a professional cracking after a couple weeks, siding outside breaking, doors rubbing then not and cracks on the concrete base of the house. I worry about getting a pro over because even if there is nothing wrong, I worry they will 'find' something.
Is there any way to tell, like repeated measurements over time?

The area my home is in is notorious for foundation issues, i.e. every neighbor has a story about having to get work done, I would just like to convince myself first.


texts: How to remove magnet paint from regular drywall?

texts:
Previous owner painted a 3 ft. by 4 ft. rectangle with magnet paint on kitchen wall. He/she used very heavy strokes. Paint is thick, has ugly, thick lines and bubbles all over.

I've been unsuccessfully trying to remove this thing so I can repaint the kitchen.
First, I tried scraping with a paint scraper... it didn't do anything.
Then tried sanding with coarse sandpaper... applied heavy pressure for about one hour until my arms got tired and nothing. All it did was smooth out the thick brush lines and bubbles a bit.

If I could sand it down to a smooth look, I could apply primer then paint, but even after one hour of vigorous sanding, I cannot remove or smooth the magnet paint enough.


texts:
I'm having trouble with a three-way switch.  (It may be 4-way, there are switches in my house I can't figure out).  I don't recall if they ever worked properly.  The light stays on regardless of the switch position.  I've disconnected both switches and tested the wires.  Here's what I've got:

Downstairs:  2 black (one hot), one red (hot)
Upstairs:  1 black, 1 white (hot), one red (hot), 1 ground

I thought there was only supposed to be 1 hot wire in each box?


texts: Wiring from basement main panel to garage

texts: I have a couple questions concerning a garage wiring project I have coming up. Here is the situation, I have a 200-amp main panel in my basement. I am building a detached garage behind my house and plan to install a sub-panel in the new garage. I plan to pull service from my main panel and the total distance is about 120 feet. Since the main panel is on the opposite end of where the garage will be, it will be about 70 feet from the main panel to the point of exit to the outside and then about 45 more feet from there to the sub-panel in the garage. The outside portion will be underground in 1 ½  pvc conduit. My question is do I run my wiring continuous from the main panel all way to the sub-panel w/o a junction box or anything? If so, does the portion of wire running along the basement ceiling have to be in conduit or can it be run a different way? I am using 4-gauge THHN wiring w/two hots, a neutral and ground.


texts:
So I purchased some of This Here MDF Casing. And am trying to determine that best way to attach it to my raw lumber frame.

The basic choices Glue, Nails, or Screws come to mind.

I'd like to use just glue that way I don't have to go back and clean up the nail/screw holes with wood fill then need to patch paint it.

But is that really feasible? Or do I have to put ATLEAST a couple nails in anyways?

From what I am reading it seems most people only use nails to hold the MDF up while the glue cures. So, my thought is maybe I could just use some kind of special quick cure glue and forego the tacks?

This MDF is going to be attached to un-touched wood 2x3's if that makes a difference.


texts: How can I handle water softener output without relying on a sump pump?

texts: We bought a house that had a water softener in the basement. It drains into a crock and gets to our septic by a sub pump. In 6 months the pump has failed twice flooding our unfinished basement. I understand the pumps don't handle the salt brine for long. What can I do to get the water out/avoid buying sub pumps every six months/not damage drinking water from our well? Our basement is not a walkout.


texts: What tools and techniques are required for moving & re-sloping a cement slab walkway?

texts:
My next "shape up" project for my house is moving and re-sloping the concrete slab walkway that goes around my house.

I am wondering what tools would be handy for this job.

I'll need to get a pry bar of some sort to lift them up, is there a particular model of prybar that is good for lifting up cement slabs?

What can I do about preventing weeds and grass growing between the slabs?

Is there a particular angle that I should be aiming for? Or just away from the house?

Is there any other things I should keep in mind for safety?


texts: Running 2nd sub panel from 1st sub panel

texts:
I have a 200amp main panel running the house, I added a 100amp sub panel(#1)to power my finished basement,I installed a 100amp breaker in the main panel and ran aluminum feed to power the sub panel#1. I only installed eight breakers and have 12 spaces left in 100 amp sub panel#1 (both panels are in the basement). I installed a 60amp breaker in the 100amp sub panel#1 and ran ROMEX(TYPE NM-B)6/3 with bare ground Wire(to feed the future 2nd sub panel in attached garage) to my single car attached garage(6/3 wire is in garage awaiting 2nd sub panel).

I plan on installing a pool and expanding the garage to a two car in the future. What type of sub panel in the garage can I install to the 6/3 romex wire? Can I use a 100amp panel? The second sub panel will only power lights a few outlets and a pool.

Thanks, Garrett


texts: Water seeping through where pipe exits slab foundation

texts:
OK, the backstory can be found in this previous questions: Repairing leaking DWV vertical 3" thin wall PVC. Basically, found mold growth behind baseboards of a powder bathroom adjoining the kitchen. Discovered it was due to a slow condensation leak from the joint of a vertical radon vent pipe in the wall. With help from Stack Exchange, I figured out the pipe size, cut out the leaky joint, made the repair with two slip couplers, and everything was great. The area stayed dry for a good (dry) month.

However, we recently had a sizeable snowstorm, and when I checked the pipe today, the new joints were great, but there was water on the base studs next to the pipe. Looking closer, there is water coming up from the slab where the vent pipe exits the slab. From my pictures previous to the repair, I see there was some sort of sealant around the pipe at the base, which looked old and worn so I removed it.

I'm particularly concerned about a source of water underneath our foundation, as awhile ago I discovered in our kitchen a few tiles that cracked (all in a semi-straight line, covering the kitchen, and pointing towards this powder bathroom). I haven't pulled these tiles yet, but I can see the foundation under the kitchen island, and there is a smallish crack (<0.125") in line with the cracks in these tiles.

Questions:

Should I seal around the radon vent pipe at the slab foundation, to prevent the water seeping up? If so, what should I use?
Should I be worried about water underneath our foundation?
If I should investigate further before sealing the pipe base, what should I look for? Or who would you call to investigate a source of water under the slab foundation, a plumber?

One last thing, that may be important, the hot water to the kitchen sink has always been slow (about half flow speed of cold; faucet has a continual lever). Previous owner said it was a safety feature of the faucet, but I've never had a plumber check it out.


texts: Is it a bad idea to cool a room on the second floor by pumping air from the basement?

texts:
In the basement, we have a temperature of 17 Celsius in summer time. On the 2nd floor it's about 28 Celsius. I thought of transporting the cool air to the 2nd floor, by attaching flexible tubes together and putting a fan every meter. The tube's diameter would be about 20cm.

I am sure this is only a bad idea, i don't know which downsides this idea could be and I am sure you guys now a better way.


texts: Insulating a 4" gap between roof and false ceiling

texts:
My house has a false vaulted ceiling with a 4" gap between it and the roof. Unfortunately, whoever installed this ceiling neglected to install insulation in this gap.

However, I can access the gap from the attic and I do have enough clearance to slide things down the gap. My dilemma is how to best insulate this awkward area without taking down the false ceiling.

Here's a crude diagram of the location of the 4" gap (on the right):

And here is a photo of the actual gap taken from inside the attic looking down the 4" gap:

The gap is 4" wide, but given the fact there are nails sticking through from the roof, the minimum clearance is probably only 3".

I've had a couple ideas for how to approach this:

Rent a cellulose blower from Home Depot. The end of the blower duct will be too wide to fit down the gap, but perhaps I could blow in some cellulose, pack it in with a long rod and then blow in more cellulose behind it...?
Cut sheets of foam board to fit and then slide them down the gap. R value won't be great and thick sheets might snag on the roof nails while sliding them down, but at least there would be some sort of insulation.

Any other ideas or recommendations?


texts: Can structure with plumbing sit on floating slab?

texts:
I understand that a structure with any sort of installations coming from the ground should be anchored with a concrete footer below the frost line in order to avoid floating on frost heave, which would rip the pipes out. So when I built my detached shed some years ago, I did that and now I can have water in it all winter long, by using my frost hydrant that shuts the water off below the frost line.

I also plan to build a new home off-grid-ish. I plan first to have electricity brought in and then a well drilled. But before I start digging for a foundation, I would like to set up a mobile home as a staging dwelling. The area (Colorado) definitely freezes over the winter.

Can a structure with plumbing sit on a floating slab or on piers in an area exposed to frost? If I do set piers, how do I protect the pipe between the ground and where it enters the structure? Any additional material on improvising mobile residences with plumbing in frost conditions is welcome.


texts: What steps to install a lightning rod on my 1 story home?

texts: I have two chimneys, one of which sticks up much higher than the other and the rest of the house.  Is installing a lightning rod as simple as attaching it to the taller chimney and running a suitably large gauge wire to a buried ground?  Or does installing a lightning rod require an electrician, either due to complexity or code?  (I live in New York State.)


texts: Thermostatic control of an unmanaged energy source to supply hot water cylinder

texts:
I have a solid wood burner that contains a heat exchanger. There is no guarantee that the combustion can be regulated. This heat exchanger feeds a loop that acts as the source heat exchanger in a hot water cylinder. The loop is pumped (pump not shown in diagram) when the furnace outlet exceeds a certain minimum temperature.

As we cannot control the combustion, it is possible that the loop and hot water cylinder would overheat. I am looking to ensure that we do not exceed a specified maximum temperature.

It is very possible that there is a component that already exists to do this, so please let me know if this is the case (the more analogue the better). In lieu of such a component, I came up with the following diagram:

When the temperature in the loop exceeds the maximum desired, the thermostatic control valve injects cold water into the loop. This creates an excess of water in the loop which will then exceed the pressure managed by the pressure relief valve, which will open and then 'drain' some of the coolant from the loop.

I would appreciate some feedback on this idea. The existing implementation (not my doing) basically has no control whatsoever, and isn't immediately replaceable.

I am totally aware that this is a waste of energy, but its just a safety control - I wouldn't expect to ever trip it.

EDIT: I can see that the more sensible option here, as hinted a few times by others, would be a thermostaticaly actuated valve to release hot water from the hot water cylinder when it exceeds a certain temp which would then handle its own "mixing". I think thats what im going to do for now. I also like the idea of a separate loop that gets activated to discharge excess heat through an alternate sink. Could be handy for keeping a hot-tub, greenhouse, etc, warm - should I ever decide to take on that task :D

Thanks for help everyone. Wish I could accept a combination of answers, as they are all great!


texts:
I am thinking of how to connect two beams over three posts to each other and to the posts.
In this country (NZ) I found two T straps for this:
Simpson APT4

MiTek Bowmac B38

The thing is, that I can bend the Simpson one with my hands and cannot bend the MiTek one.
My 1st question is - is this Simpson strap meant for what I think it is meant for? Connecting a beam to a post or two ends of beams to a post and each other.
2nd question is - if I can bend it with hands, is it strong enough to hold the beam which will hold the roof? Or maybe I need two of these on each side of the post or it is decorative only and needs additional fasteners.


texts: I need to do some work behind the shower tub valve buthadno idea how to remove this one. I only found two screws one the back panel but the panel is still blockedby the handle. I can't find anyway to remove the handle. I didn't find any screws for the handle. And twist g the handle itself won't loose it either. Any input is deeply appreciated.


texts:
I am trying to attach a faucet adapter to my kitchen sink to allow me to add a touch-less adapter.  I made some mistakes on sizes and finally arrives at M16 female (on faucet side) to M22 male (for touch-less adapter side).
The adapter size seems close to the size needed on the faucet diameter size, but  when I try to screw it in it manages to go in a little but then does not screw in.
Am I am making a mistake on size still or my adapter has bad threads?
M16 female to M24 male adapter.

The adapter with M24 size.

The faucet thread.


texts: 2 pole 20amp breaker connected to my 40 amp stove

texts: Hi I recently noticed in a house I bought that I have a 50 amp outlet in my kitchen that is connected to my electric range stove that requires a 2 pole 40 Amp breaker. But the breaker that these are connected to is a 2 pole 20amp breaker with 12awg wire. Is this safe and/or Correct?


texts: I have found that the light reflecting off the garage floor also causes a problem.  High noon, both sensors in the shadow and still a problem.  Put some landscaping black and fixed it.  Next morning, only transmitter in the sun, black all along the floor didn't fix it?  going to try cleaning and sunglasses.  The installation has been there for 15 years with no problem!


texts:
I have a ceiling light fixture with four bulbs and a fan. A while back, two of the bulbs stopped working, but the bulbs themselves were not broken, as putting them into another lamp showed the bulbs were working fine.

Today I finally decided to open the fixture and see if this is something I can fix.

I opened the box, and even though I don't understand the circuit, I noticed that one of the cables was pinched (is this the right term?) like so:

I think it is likely the cable is broken inside, so it would be a good idea to replace the connection and see if this fixes the problem.

As you can see in the picture, the cable is attached to the male part of a connector, while the female part leads to another cable.

I wasn't able to open the connector, so I might need to buy a new one. Does anybody know the name of this connector so I can find it in my local electronic shop?

Here's a front view of the connector in question.


texts: Outlet/outside light dead upon plugging in air conditioner

texts:
1: I immediately upon plugging in air conditioner an outlet on the he opposite wall stopped working
2: The porch light, which happens to be on the same wall as the NOW nonworking outlet also quit working
3: We checked breaker panel first..all was well
4: Reset them ALL anyway...nothing
5: Leads me to believe this could possibly be a wiring issue...which I know nothing about


texts: How can I find the first receptacle in a circuit?

texts:
I know how to wire a GFCI receptacle and all the things to go with it in doing so. But what I do not know is the following.

I understand the GFCI receptacle should be first in line to protect the load side going to other standard receptacles, but lets say you have 5 receptacles on a line in a room that has 2 on 1 wall a 1 on each other wall. How or what is the best way to find the first receptacle in line, so the others can be protected. Am I over thinking this? Is there a simple answer? Or do I have to take each outlet off, unwire each to find the firstvin line from the breaker?

Had a couple receptacles go bad, and have decided to replace all of them (30 total in my house and garage). Also want to install GFCIs in the circuits, just want to make sure I get them in line correctly.


texts:
While painting my bathroom walls, I accidentally put some paint in the wood of the window frame:

Is there an easy way to remove it without harming the brown wood paint? Please note that the white paint is special paint for bathroom.


texts: How much NM cable can I fit in a conduit?

texts:
I am replacing my 55 year old, 100 amp, 12 space outdoor service entrance panel with a new 20 space 200 amp outdoor panel. Since the new panel is 12" above the rim joist, I was thinking of using PVC emt elbows to get the branch circuits into the box. Code says I can run romex in conduit for short sections for protection.

How much NM cable for what size conduit (I have a 2" knockout and 9 @ 3/4" knockouts). And what about strain relief when the cable enters the panel?

This is what I'm trying to do.

The new combo panel with underground service will be just to the left of this panel. There is a 6-3 cloth covered romex (soon to be replaced) in the large conduit. How do I get the other romex circuits into the new box?


texts:
Maybe I'm a little dense, but I'm having a little difficulty visualizing how laying out studs 16" OC works with a tape measure.  From almost every source I look at they say "Don't screw this up.  Hook it on the end, go to the red numbers (16/32/etc), and mark 3/4" to each side to get them on center".

That's great and all, but they all also say to start by placing the first stud right at the end of the board.  Thus, your original markings would be at 15.25" (16 - 3/4"), and when you place your end stud, it'll span from 0" - 1.5".  (with the middle being on 0.75").  Therefore, the distance OC between the first stud and the 2nd stud would be 16-0.75 = 15.25", not 16".  What gives? To me it seems like you'd just hook the end of the tape and mark on the reds and use that as your outer edge, not the inner.


texts:
I lost my keys right in front of my building, in a water evacuation pipe of approximately 7-8 centimeters of diameter. It goes vertically in the ground for about 1m and then bend to approximately 90 degrees, which means this next part is almost horizontal. It is filled with small rocks. I guess my bunch of keys ended up at the beginning of this part.

None of the keys is magnetised. I tried to get them back using a wire with a hook at the end, but I didn't succeed, I guess the rocks are not helping. I am afraid using a drain cleaner would push them further instead of hooking them.

I have no other access to the pipe, and no direct vision on the bunch of keys.

Is anyone having an idea ? I'm getting a bit desperate here because it would cost me a lot if I can't get them back.

Thank you in advance for your help !


texts:
After losing power and operating the door manually and causing the cable to come off the drum, the door now will not close completely.

the cable is not crossed. there are no wedged rollers. Everything is clear and it works fine until the last six inches. Also, there is a great amount of upward pressure from the springs. It it possible that the springs are now, too tight? Please help!!!


texts: Why "extra" power disconnect for small HVAC unit?

texts:
I am in the throes of learning enough to do a DIY install of a small heat pump package unit.

The installation manual calls for (and suggests that NEC requires) a "fused disconnect" inline with the power from the panel to the main unit.

I have two points of confusion on this.  If my HVAC unit is right next to the main breaker box (like 3 feet away), what's the point of this (to my mind) "extra" disconnect box?

why does it need a "fuse" (the breaker will be dedicated to the hvac unit)
why does the HVAC needs its own dedicated disconnect rather than just shutting off the aforementioned breaker in the breaker box (right next to the HVAC unit)?

While we're at it, this is 2015... does ANYTHING in residential wiring still use an actual "fuse"?  Why would it be a fuse rather than a breaker?


texts: How do I wire this kitchen fluorescent ceiling fixture?

texts:
I bought a new Home Depot kitchen ceiling fixture but am not sure of the proper way to install it.  The fixture itself has black, white, and bare copper.  The ceiling wiring is red and gray(white?).

What goes to where?


texts: My VOSS oven makes a clicking noise when cooling down

texts:
Our 10 years old VOSS electric oven model IEL 671-OT (conventional + convection) makes a loud and fast clicking sound when cooling down. It starts usually around 5 minutes after being switched off and will last until it is completely cool.

You can stop the sound for a period by simply turning the oven on and off again. After a few minutes it will start again though. Then you can stop it again by turning it on an off and so forth, until it eventually stops.

When the noise is sounding, the light in the clock display is considerably weaker than normal, around 50%. It regains the normal brightness immediately if you turn on the oven (which stops the noise) but will again go low when the noise starts.

I guess the sound comes from a relay, but I have no idea what the relay does and why it clicks.

I often fix stuff myself and don't mind disassembling the oven, but I would like to get a few ideas first, if possible.

UPDATE:
Here is a short video where you can both see and hear the problem. Note how the dimming of the display is related to the clicking noise. In thise case the oven only reluctantly turned on when I pressed the switch, this is quite unusual. Normally it starts without problems and then the noise disappears.


texts: Where is the pressure vacuum breaker typically located in a lawn irrigation system?

texts: Where is the pressure vacuum breaker (or other backflow device) typically installed in a lawn irrigation system? Does it matter, as long as it is before the first sprinkler head? Or does it have to be before all the valves? Is it typically buried or is it usually above ground and elevated? Would one ever be right at the jet pump on home well systems? Do they ever have pressure gauges attached to them? Thanks for any help. I'm trying to narrow down a problem with my irrigation system and need a little info on this device.


texts: How do I remove a flush mounted ceiling light fixture dome?

texts:
My bedroom has a very nice looking flush mounted ceiling light with a glass dome. However, all the bulbs have gone out and I cannot get the glass out to replace them. I'm 5'4" and standing on the bottom corner of my bed I can reach up with my arms fully extended and handle the glass on the bottom and along the very small lip / edge of the glass dome but it doesn't slide or move in either direction. According to a messageboard post I found, the glass dome type of light fixture should move 1/8 of the way counter-clockwise to be removed but I can't get it to budge in either direction. I am at my wits end; HOW can I get this glass dome out? The glass has thus far ignored my curses and yells.

Also my room is pretty small, I can't move my bed anywhere else to get on a stepladder beneath the fixture.

Here is a picture of a similar model:

ETA: I have tried both gloves and exerting sideways turning pressure instead of upward turning pressure. I need to borrow or buy a larger stepladder, but I don't know how much it will help since I think I am getting as much traction and leverage I am going to get with my hand strength. Someone suggested I superglue something to the glass to use as a handle, so I guess I will try that next.

FINAL EDIT: My roommate (who has 6 inches and probably 50 pounds on me) was able to remove the glass after about 5 diffucult minutes of loosening the dome while wearing texturized rubber gloves. His hands are bigger and doubtlessly stronger than mine, which was mostly what granted him victory over the light. I'm glad I didn't have to glue handles to it, but still frustrated by what I maintain is a terrible design for a light fixture. My hands might be on the small side, but it shouldn't be impossible to change lightbulbs if you're on the smaller end of the human spectrum.


texts: How can I fix my entry door that is not deep enough?

texts: I had my front door replace, I got the right measurment and the door fit, but it was not deep enough. Now from the inside the edges of the door do not even out with the wall. Is there a way I can fix that?


texts: Should I use a vapor barrier when repairing a portion of the wall?

texts:
I'm replacing sheetrock 2.5' up from subfloor in remedy to mold issue.

Does it make sense/provide benefit to put up a vapor barrier for this portion of the wall?
The sheetrock that remains is foil-backed, if that matters.


texts: Why is the first shower of the day is colder than the second?

texts:
Description
Since I've moved into this house, I've noticed that the first shower of the day is colder than the any subsequent shower.  More specifically, if no hot water has been used for a while, the water becomes more luke warm than hot.  However, the maximum temperature of the water after it recovers from this issue is plenty hot.
To work around this problem, my wife and I use my dishwasher's timer feature and run it over night.  This usage of hot water in the middle of the night helps the water be a more reasonable temperature in the morning.  But we don't always have a load of dishes to do each night...
I've got some theories, and they're mostly related to the thermostat and/or it's position.  I keep the temperature between the A and B settings (I'm in the US, if that matters).  The water heater is only about 7 years old and I have flushed it recently.  There was no difference after flushing it.
My Theories

The thermostat is malfunctioning.  The thermostat most likely has a high temperature shutoff (where it turns the heat off once it achieves the desired temperature) and a low temperature turn on (where it turns the heat on once the water gets too cold).  One theory is that the slow cooling of the water over time isn't enough to trip the lower threshold on the thermostat.  However, the cold water coming in from the main is enough to shock the thermostat and turn it on.

My second theory is that the thermostat is at the bottom of the hot water heater (I'm pretty sure it is) and the pilot light is keeping the water in that area hot enough that it doesn't kick on the heat.  Since I keep the temperature at a moderate setting (I have young children), I'm thinking that the water at the bottom of the tank might never get cold enough to kick on the heat because of the proximity to the pilot light.  However, when the tank starts to drain and the cold water from the main comes in, it does trip the thermostat.

Any idea if either of these theories might be right?  How can I fix it?  Do I just need a new water heater?  Will that even help?


texts:
I live in an older house in a colder climate (Boston).

Spring is almost here and we're planning on doing some gardening. We have an external spigot, although it's been defunct since we moved in ~2yrs ago (a rental).

My first thought was to try and find the internal valve and see if it had maybe been turned off one winter. After a little investigating I found out that there's no pipe connected to the spigot - it simply cuts off after going about an inch inside the house (picture attached).

The area where it enters the house is close to the ceiling in the basement bathroom, almost directly above the toilet. I'm wondering if it's possible and how much of a task it would be to run a pipe from the spigot to perhaps the line where the toilet is getting water.

Thanks!


texts: Do I need planning permission to build a roof terrace over a flat roof in the UK?

texts:
We're thinking of building a roof terrace on the flat roof at the rear of a property. The property is in the UK and is not in a conservation area.

Do we need to seek planning permission to do this? If so, how likely is it to be difficult and is there anything we can do to smooth the way?


texts: How to remove/cut off a steel post in concrete

texts:
As part of some renovation work, I am taking apart a small enclosure on my driveway. Having removed the "walls", I'm left with seven (what look like) galvanised steel posts, embedded in the concrete surface of the driveway.

The posts are hollow, square in cross-section, with a width of about 4cm. They are embedded in concrete which stops about 1cm below the surface of the driveway.

Four of the posts are at the edges of the driveway, where they have a low wooden wall to one side, while the remaining three are in the middle.

In the right-hand photo the concrete around the base of the post is wet, as I used a power washer to clean away the dirt that had become embedded in the gap between the post and the concrete hole.

Can anyone suggest the best way for me to remove or cut them off (below the surface of the driveway)?

Very interested in any answers that include explanatory/illustrative diagrams!


texts: Diagnosing Refridgerator Condensate Draining process

texts:
SYMPTOM

Renter reports water on the floor from fridge.  It seems silly to buy a new fridge if the only issue is the condensate processing is needs correction, however, this is the second incident on the same fridge.

I inspected the fridge yesterday.  The plastic evaporator pan was full of water.  Renter indicated it had overflowed once last week.

What is the most common reason why the evaporator pan is full and overflowing?
Is there a clever method to determine why is the water not evaporating?

The freezer works fine.  The fridge occasionally freezes items (an onion, watermelon) but does work.  Does occasional freezing indicate an issue? or is this as simples dialing down the cooling setting?

Clogged Condensate Drain?

I noticed the fridge and freezer were very dirty.  I read that a clogged drain (from food or debris) in fridge/freezer compartment can lead to water overflow.  The entire fridge/freezer should be emptied and cleaned, and drain should be wiped out.  A warm solution of water and vinegar can be poured in the line.  Also can use a pipe cleaner.

If the evaporator pan is full can one conclude that the drain lines are not clogged and not the problem?
Are there any other questions that I should be answered to diagnose
root cause of problem?

If it the root cause requires a new refridgerator, that's fine, however, if it doesn't that would be preferable: not just economically,it is a PITA to replace the fridge on the second story.  I don't want to buy a new fridge if the problem is a clogged drain line or involves a simple part replacement.

Insight and experience are highly appreciated: thank you.


texts: Replacing a toilet, when I turn the water valve off there is still water running into toilet?

texts: When trying to replace a toilet, the water valve to toilet will not stop water supply even when valve is shut off. I have opened and closed the valve several times but water continues to be supplied to toilet.