texts: Can I be certain that there is a stud here?

texts:
I'm looking to mount a TV across the gap of a recessed window.  The window is set a few inches back from the wall.  The plan is to sink two screws into studs on either side of the window to fix the large VESA mount there, and then hang the TV on it.

As depicted, the stud finder I've been using detects stud centers about 5/8 - 3/4" from the edge of the window alcove.  This was indicated consistently on both sides of the window, up and down a couple of feet.
I drilled preparatory holes to sink the screws, and I think what came out was wood, but I'm not entirely certain.
There was also a little bit of curved metal that came out of one of the holes, possibly part of a drywall screw?  Given the layout of the room, it seems very unlikely that there's any electrical work in this location, so that's my best guess as to what it could be.
The TV is quite heavy and rather expensive so I'd really like to be sure that what I'm mounting it to is, in fact, wood.  Is it possible that the stud finder is wrong?  If so, what can I do to make sure that I'm placing the VESA mount in the right place?  There's really not a better location for the TV.


texts: I'm trying to repair a wall and need to know what type of texture this is. Thank you.


texts: What are the functions of these two pipes?

texts:
I was exploring my attic and trying to identify pipes, etc that are in the attic.

These pipes are probably 5-6" in diameter. I believe the black pipe is the sewer vent. I don't know what the white pipe is. There are a few others scattered through out the attic. Could they be old vents for old gas heating systems?


texts:
My dad has asked me to fit a flue for his wood burner, he has a bungalow.
He has purchased some ducting, which I'm not sure is suitable for the job, he also has not purchased a top piece to connect it to the chimney pot. According to him you can just leave it 'floating'...

I'm going to assume the answer will be 'don't do it the house will burn down' but at least I can show that to him so he doesn't go ahead with it!

So I have two questions,

1. Can the ducting be used for a wood burner?

2. How can I attach it to the top without a 'top', or can I leave it just floating? I seems dangerous to me.


texts: How to install cabinets on concrete floor

texts:
I am installing base cabinets in my basement.  The flooring will be a floating laminate, so I can't set the cabinets directly on the flooring.  There was a similar question How do I install cabinets on a floating hardwood floor?, but it didn't answer how so install the cabinets on the concrete.

From what I've seen so far, it seems like there should be some sort of shim/spacer system, but I haven't really seen in more detail what this would be.  Would I use something like 5/4 PT boards and create a box and set the cabinets on this?


texts: Can I upgrade my 40amps breaker to 50amps or do I need rewiring?

texts: I have a 40amps range breaker. I want to upgrade it to 50amps. I know that the wires need to support 50amps if I want to upgrade it to 50amps. However, I am not able to figure out whether the wires support 50amps. How would I find out whether the wires support 50amps? Here is the image of 40amps circuit breaker that I want to upgrade.


texts: Can I use an HVLP sprayer on the exterior of my house?

texts:
I’m painting the outside of my house. Wood siding. I’m using a brush and roller but I remembered I have an hvlp paint sprayer that I think would be pretty convenient to use. I was reading online that I shouldn’t use hvlp for painting a house. But it didn’t say why. Does anybody know?

Here’s the article that says not to do it.
http://www.house-painting-info.com/articles/hvlp/#.WwZDaaJlDYU

I could use an airless sprayer but there is a ton of prep work in that because of the over spray and the hvlp is a bit more manageable in the overspray department.

Also I just want to try it out. But not if it won’t apply the paint correctly or something.

Also the house is small. 950 square feet.


texts: GFCI Did Not Trip - Outdoor Extension Cord Fell in Mud

texts:
Outdoor GFCI with HD extension cord feeding Mosquito Magnet bug light (total load about 20W) fell to ground and was covered by water during storm.  Current proceeded to travel through side of cord socket/ receptacle and melted plastic body.  Eventually panel breaker tripped, but GFCI never did.
Thoughts???


texts: How can one replace a Lori branded lock that won't fit in a new door

texts:
I've replaced an exterior door on my house and the old deadbolt won't fit in the new door because the back set is different.
The deadbolt key is common to all my exterior doors, and I'd like to be able use the same key with the new door.
About The Old Lock
The lock may be original to the house which was constructed in 1989. The brand Lori is also associated with Ilco, Kaba, and US locks. The lock cylinder is a mortise style cylinder. The diameter of the notches is 1" and the diameter of the threads is about 1.14". The deadbolt assembly appears to be model 4512-05 S/C US5. I'm only able to find 2" backsets but I need 2-3/4".

The Keyway is KW1 and there are 5 pins.
How can I find a deadbolt that uses the same key as my other locks but fits in this door?


texts: How to protect furniture in a leaky garage?

texts:
I have some furniture (nothing very valuable, but some tables and bookcases) that I am temporarily going to have to store in a garage that is a bit leaky.

It's not very leaky, and there is some chance it won't leak at all during the 6 months I need to store the furniture there. On occasion water will come through the roof at random spots, but at most it would rise to maybe 1mm.

What sort of wrapping is most appropriate to give the furniture a fair chance of protection? If the furniture was destroyed by rain it would not be a big loss, but I'm keen to find some cheap way of protecting it if possible.


texts: Condenser, (heat pump) covered in pollen - does it need to be vacuumed - pic attached

texts:
So my Condenser, (heat pump) is covered in pollen - does it need to be vacuumed or will the wind/rain take this away naturally?

Here is what it looks like:


texts:
I'm hoping someone can help me figure out the following.  I paid my home builder to plumb a 3/4 bath in the basement.  As we got close to closing they finally cleaned up the basement and gave us a tour.  I could see where the toilet drain protruded through the floor and a vertical pipe with a right angle pipe on it for the vanity.  What I don't see is a drain for the shower.  When I asked the builder they stated the drain was under the concrete.  Long story short, I closed on the house and now that I'm planning to finish the basement I'm starting to doubt they plumbed it correctly.  In your experience(s) is it an acceptable practice to NOT have a drain protruding for the shower?  I can post photos if needed.  Thank you for any information you can provide!

[
[


texts: How do you count the number of wires in a fill capacity of an outlet box?

texts: Please could you explain the number of wires, connectors that go into a 4x4x1 1/2 square box that is only 14 gauge. I have only a switch (two wires) connected to that box as well.  Do you count the connectors as one besides the three wires or so that might be connected to it?  Also the switch itself? Or do you just count only the number of wires? Thank you


texts: wiring two 110 v outlets from one 220 v outlet

texts:
The Q & A at this link was close to my question, but not quite there. heating elements.

I have a 220 v single phase, 30 amp, 4 plug box fed with 10 AWG x 3, plus ground romax in my garage. I plug my 220 v powertools into it. I have two 110v heating elements which each draw about 10-12 amps which I would like to run this way because of the high amperage available. I understand from the previous Q and A that by wiring 240 v in series to two 120 v appliances, you are able to effectively run them both without frying them. I thought "spectacular, I will do that." But then I remembered that the 220v in my house comes on two separate runs of 110v, and not one run of 220v. It appears that the previous example was talking about one run of 240v, in which case, I can see how that would work. Having said all this, can this somehow still work? In other words, is there a way to get 220 v to the beginning of my series circuit, and return it on the neutral? Do I need a transformer to do this? Would sure appreciate any advice.


texts: Toilet flange is too long and can't lower pipe in floor

texts:
I have new plumbing installed for a new toilet. However, the 4" pipe is too close to the floor so the toilet flange (not yet installed) is too long and sticks above the finished floor about an inch. The pipe can't be lowered due to space issues. Is there anyway I can install this flange (or a different one?) that would make the flange lower and flush with the floor or, although not ideal, sitting on top of it? Also should mention that the pipe does not go straight down like the picture makes it seem. It is an elbow right at the floor.

Here is a crude illustration of the floor and the issue with the flange.


texts: Trying to replace the adjuster screw on a screen door -- low-profile threaded screw insert and bolt (identification needed)

texts:
On my sliding patio screen door there is an height adjuster held in place by flat-profile screw inserts. I'd like to obtain more of these threaded bolts and inserts, but I have a nomenclature issue where I can't identify them precisely.

The bottom and top rails of the frame allow sliding up and down to adjust the overall height of the door. The height setting is locked with a phillips-head bolt and screwed insert which looks like a rivet. this is the back view.

What type of screw is that?

It looks like the insert for a rivet nut (rivnut), but the lip is larger. I could assemble something like it with rivnuts, but I'd need to buy the corresponding crimping tool.

It could be a Chicago screw post (used to bind leather pieces or photo album books), but I've not been able to find any Chicago screw posts that are of matching dimensions and material (I'd need M4-9mm screw with 10mm insert). If there is a generic name that captures both rivnuts and chicago posts, I don't know it.

Any fastener which is slim would probably work (the frame needs to be as thin as possible to slide freely around the glass panel frame). I'll probably just end up using a slim nut and bolt cut to length if I can't find out what it is.


texts: At what height should I install chair rail?

texts:
I have a couple questions regarding my chair rail installation.  I have read that, if possible, the chair rail should be at the same level as the window sill but I am thinking it might be better a little higher.  Note that the overall wall height is 8'4", the upper surface of the window sill is around 31" and the height of the chair backs is around 36".  One of the photos shows how the chair rail would look if it were installed a few inches above the window sill.

I would be interested to hear what others think about this.

Another issue is that I want to terminate a chair rail about 1 foot beyond an inside corner as it reaches an outside corner about 13 inches to the left of the inside corner.

I was thinking of putting in a mitered return about one inch from this outside corner.  Another option which is easier would be to not even install the railing along the 13 inch wall and just terminate the molding in the inside corner using a square cut.  I'm not sure if this would look as good though.


texts: Changing Furnace to Direct-Vent, can i get rid of these pipes?

texts:
My 96% furnace uses a PVC pipe to exhaust the combustion gases to the outside. The intake is currently taken in through a inlet similar to the exhaust on the left side of the furnace. It does not connect to any pipes, it simply sucks air in from the room. I believe the two large pipes coming from the attic are to supply combustion air. Can I run similar PVC to the outside for the intake and then be able to remove these two pipes?

You can see straight through the pipe into the attic.

I also have a 40,000 btu water heater in the room. The room is 11'x8'x9' so 792 cu. ft.


texts:
I have a receptacle that notoriously trips a breaker. However this time the receptacle stopped working as in nothing plugged in will work but will work everywhere else, and it did not trip the breaker. This receptacle is #4 as there are 3 in the garage that proceed it and there are 3 GFCI's that follow it.  All the receptacles that proceed it work when you turn the breaker back on, however all of the GFCI's and the problem receptacle do not work.
  When tested the four that do not work test "hot/grnd reversed" and all the others test "correct".  I took each receptacle and GFCI out and saw they are all wired correctly as in black wire to small blade, white to large blade and they are all grounded properly. No idea as to what else to do at this point.
  Any ideas as to why this receptacle is constantly tripping a breaker, what happened different this time and what to look for on how to fix it?


texts: How to effectively and efficiently remove varnish from wood

texts:
I have been restoring an old staircase. I started sanding it with fine sandpaper and then tried rougher paper. It seems that the varnish layer on the wood is melting when sanding over it and sticking to the sandpaper, rendering it useless in a matter of seconds. It is hard to peel the varnish off the paper.

The staircase has a lot of perpendicular surfaces and corners; these are hard to reach and the edges of the sandpaper gets cluttered immediately.

The current result is a staircase where the varnish is sanded in the middle of the surfaces and around the edges there is still a lot of varnish left.

I have used cellulose thinner twice, but that was not effective at all. What did I do wrong here?

My question is: how can I remove the varnish from the wood easily, especially in the corners?


texts:
I removed an old ceiling light/fan fitting. There were 4 wires coming out of the attic into this old unit: copper, red, black, white.

I have a new light/fan combo to fit. It only has 3 wires: green, white, black.

How do I join these?

Then for the wall switch:

There used to be 2 switches; one for the fan, one for the light.

The new wall switch is a single unit with a light button and a fan button on the front. There are 3 wires coming out the back; green, black and white.

How do I wire the wall fittings?

Many thanks if you can help.


texts: Can I use vodka instead of isopropyl alcohol?

texts:
I have to remove some hot glue and apparently the trick is isopropyl alcohol.

Of course, I don't have isopropyl alcohol in my house but I do have lots of vodka (don't judge).

Can vodka generally be used in places where isopropyl alcohol is required as a solvent?  (So this question is more than just the case of hot glue).


texts: Options for fixing outside cement staircase?

texts:
We have a below-grade basement and a exit door.  There are concrete steps to the door, parallel to the house (so on your right is the house) and on the left is a brick wall.  The steps appear to have been poured as one unit.  However, over time it appears the whole assembly has shifted, both to the left, and then the top has sunk down.  The effect of this is that water pools in some of the steps (away from the house).  As part of a landscaping project, we were able to put in a little drain on the top most step, but it is not optimal (and also doesn't do anything for the other steps).

Here's a picture of the area:

Seeing as how a similar condition persists on almost every step, what are the options for fixing this?  This area does not get a lot of sun either, so it doesn't dry naturally very well.


texts: How can I replace an old dial thermostat on an oil furnace with Hydrostat 3250 Plus?

texts:
I recently bought a home with an oil fired Biasi furnace that has a Hydrostat 3250-Plus attached. It uses an old analog round dial thermostat, and I'd like to replace it with a new digital (wifi) thermostat. The old thermostat only has two wires running to it (T and T), but the new one I bought requires a C wire. I went down to the furnace to see if there was an available terminal only to discover the Hydrostat. The directions for the hydrostat show the two 'T' connections, but not a 'C'. It has a C1 and C2, but the manual says these are for a circulator. I'm not great when it comes to wiring diagrams, and I'm at wits end trying to figure out where to go from here. I've included links to the manuals I've been able to find. If I can't connect the Honeywell wifi thermostat, any ideas for other options?

I believe its page 23 on the first one, as we have the Riello option.

B10 SERIES BOILER manual

Hydrostat 3250 manual


texts: Should light temperatures be equal in all rooms?

texts: We have different compact fluorescent lamps and LEDs with different color temperatures in our flat and I found it to be unpleasant to have a blueish light in the bedroom and a yellower one in the hallway. Should I equalize it and use, for instance, 2700K lights in all rooms or is it better to have a lower color temperature in the bedroom and a higher one in the working room?


texts: Is there an exterior motion detector that turns power off instead of on when someone enters a space? All internet inquiries have only found power on detectors. I've also found "light curtains" but they are overkill and too pricey.


texts: Would you put heavy tile floor-to-ceiling over this "blueboard"?

texts:
We have an upstairs 9x5 bathroom in wooden construction. Ceiling height is
8 feet. Our contractor used a combination of "GoBoard" (concrete-type board) for the shower area, and "blueboard" for the remaining part of the bathroom.

We purchased porcelain tile that is 12x24", 5/16" thickness, and this tile is heavy. Each piece of tile weighs about 8.5lb (so about 4.25 per sq ft).

We'd like to tile from floor to ceiling to achieve a modern look, but don't want backerboard/tile to fail someday down the road, and come crashing down.

The current dilemma is whether to:

A. Scale down the plan and tile only a portion of the wall, perhaps the lower 4 feet.

B. Ask the contractor to replace the "blueboard" with something stronger.

C. Go ahead and tile over the blueboard.

Was hoping someone could suggest ballpark figures of safe/unsafe load and if we're thinking correctly here. Many thanks.


texts:
I have an attic fan that is operated by a regular old light (toggle) switch.  The problem is that the switch was installed by the previous owner in the master walk-in closet, right where one would expect the switch for the closet light to be located.  I'm afraid that I will often mistakenly switch on the attic fan instead of the closet light.

I'm looking for suggestions on possible replacement switches that have some sort of cover or safety/locking mechanism that would prevent me from accidentally switching on the fan.

Something like a toggle switch cover would be great, however, I can't seem to find any that are designed for standard light switches.


texts: WiFi Thermostat, No C Terminal on Furnace

texts: Really hope someone can help me with this. I've looked through the other posts and can't find one similar enough to mine to answer. I've got an old gas furnace + AC and i'm installing a Sensi Wifi theromostat. There's only 4 wires and I cannot figure out how to do the G wire to C conversion because my furnace has no terminals. It looks like someone added a 24v transformer at some point and i think i can just tap into that for my new theromostat but i don't want to connect it incorrectly and damage something. I can easily run a new thermostat wire that will have 5 wires, but i'm unsure where to attached that new C wire. Any help would be really appreciated.


texts: flames slowly die out propane town and country

texts: I have a town and country TC 30. It is about 10 years old. It works off a remote maestro control that came with the unit. I keep the pilot light lit. Recently when the fire is started, it burns beautifully for about 30 minutes and then the flames slowly recede and eventually all that is left burning is the pilot light. The pilot light then seems to cycle getting slightly bigger and smaller but staying lit.After about 90 minutes the fire can be re-lit but the same outcome occurs.It is almost like the firebox is getting too hot and the system is shutting itself down.The cycling of the pilot light seems very odd.Do you have any thoughts?


texts: Replastered section of wall surrounded by lining paper

texts: Late last year we had dry rot treatment on a wall. This involved a section of plaster being removed and then it being replastered. This means we now have a section of wall with bare plaster, surrounded by wall covered in painted lining paper. I usually paint my own walls but had been planning to get decorators in to fix this. However with lockdown continuing on here in Scotland I'm considering doing it myself. What's the best way of getting this looking neat and tidy for repainting?


texts:
I used to be an electrician many years ago (trained by the USCG, worked commercial/residential at EOE). Is been about 13 years since I wired up a service panel. I am building a new home and need a little guidance on purchasing and wiring the correct service panel.

The home will be a little over 4300 square feet in size. With 2 furnaces and possibly 2 A/C's as well. I am planning on a 400-amp service feeding 2-200 amp sub-panels in the house. I would like to have some distribution on the outside of the home in order to feed future landscape lighting in the backyard as well as a small sub-panel for a shop.

Would a metered panel that has two 200-amp breakers in it and distribution work to feed the inside sub-panels as well? (e.g. HP816P400BS ). I am assuming that the factory installed 200-amp breaker is servicing the included distribution bus and therefore is not good for supplying one of the two 200-amp panels inside the basement.

Would it be better to just install a metered 400-amp panel that has only 2-200amp disconnects in it and then run a sub-panel from the interior 200-amp panels back to the outside of the home to allow for easier future electrical needs outside the home? (e.g. HP40SH )

The basement will be 95% finished upon completion of construction so future proofing future electrical needs on the outside of the home is very important.

I am also looking at having a Generac backup generator with a transfer switch installed to the main service panel.

Any guidance and advice would be greatly appreciated?


texts: Using a charcoal BBQ, how far should I be away from the house?

texts: Are there any guidelines or rules anywhere?


texts: Neutral and Live both hot when switch is turned off. How do I connect my new light?

texts:
I'm attempting to swap out a ceiling light in a 100 year old house.  I have found what appears to be 3 hot (black) wires bound to one of the previously installed light's wires, and 1 hot (black) wire bound to another wire in the lamp.
There is only one switch that controls this light.  The previous installation works properly, in terms of turning the light on and off.  After pulling the switch out, it would appear there is a hot (black) and a neutral (white) attached to this switch.
With the switch in the Off position, the light turns off and my no contact voltage meter reads both the group of 3 black wires, and the single black wire as hot.  With the switch in the On position, the light turns on, the group of 3 reads as having power, while the lone black wire has no power.
How should I attach my new light?


texts: How can I install a TV mount to metal studs?

texts:
I'm trying to mount a tv in the new apartment. I thought I found and marked the studs and drill holes, but when trying to drill though met resistance. I'm able to look into the wall a little because of a chute for the wires and I don't believe I see any actual studs, mostly metal. Does this mean there are metal studs? And if so how can I go about mounting the TV? Thanks a bunch.

Joe


texts: I want to replace this 1 inch hinge on a decorative cabinet. the screws are pretty small and their head is damaged as you can see in the pictures. I can't get any leverage with the screw driver. Does anyone know how I can take these small screws out with out damaging the cabinet and ruining the wood?


texts: There is a section of street outside my home that is always wet, even when hot and dry outside. The neighborhood is under construction (all new homes).  I have not experienced any plumbing issues. Why might it be doing this?


texts:
So for part 3 in the continuing saga of weird stuff in my house, the garage. In particular, this odd looking thing attached to the wall:

I thought it might be a shelf, but all of the supports are on top, which is an odd way to build a shelf. It is also too high up (about 7 feet off the ground) to be practical for storage. The cable and pulley looking thing might lead you to believe it was meant to be retractable, except, as you can see from the side view, it is quite firmly bolted into the masonry:

The way the supports are placed, it looks designed to resist an upward force from below, but I have no idea what the intended use case for it could be.


texts: How to attach PVC pipe to 1-1/4" metal/lead pipe

texts:
I'm trying to attach this sink trap to the wall drain which appears to be an old metal/lead pipe. The old trap was attached using a flex rubber coupling, but because it's not a shielded one, it is not up to code.
I have not been able to find a shielded 1-1/4 inch rubber coupling anywhere. Stores or online. So that would be an ideal solution, but it doesn't appear there is one.
So next I found this PVC adapter which can attach to the metal pipe, but I'm not sure if the compression of the rubber washer would be enough to prevent water from leaking OR if this is up to code either.
Any suggestions?  I could use 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 trap PVC lines but the wall pipe is 1-1/4 so I'm limited to that attachment at the wall.


texts: Icemaker tubing won’t snug in-compression nut

texts: I can’t get the icemaker tubing pictured below to snug inside the compression nut. Can tighten but, but tubing keeps slipping out. Any suggestions?


texts: Where do you put the oil when oiling a fan?

texts:
I know some fan motors have ports to oil but many do not (bathroom exhaust fan, bathroom heater fan, regular house fan, etc). How do you oil the ones that do not have ports?
Specifically, where do you put the oil 3-in-1 oil?
Edit: The model I'm maintaining is NuTone 765HL (https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/765hl) ad it says the heater fan is sealed but doesn't mention anything about the vent fan.


texts: Why is my furnace blower noisy when it starts?

texts:
The blower of my furnace makes a loud noise every time it starts. I understand that a large fan and the movement of large amounts of air will produce some noise. What I am puzzled by is the noise that sounds like a "starter." The noise only lasts for about a second or two; then there is just the expected sound of blowing air.

Could it be a motor failure problem at its infancy, or could it be related to the capacitor start on the motor? The blower pushes air without a hitch. Is this a normal condition that is heard on all blower motors?

Additional details:

My system is a direct drive motor driven, "squirrel cage" type fan, hot air, oil fired furnace. I am aware of the sounds of the fuel pump and then ignition of oil rumbling in the fire box (I don't know if that's the right term) but anyway the sound that I am trying to troubleshoot is the noise when the fan motor starts (my best description is that of a car starter) It may be spelled RRen-nen-nen-nen and then just the sound of moving air after the fan gets to full speed. There is a capacitor on the motor, could it be a malfunctioning capacitor? I have lived in an apartment building for 30 years and now in a single family dwelling, and have never heard any heating system noises. My concern is in what to replace; motor & capacitor, or just motor, or just capacitor or is that just a noise that I am going to have to get used to?


texts: What is the max distance between top of gutter and the roof tiles?

texts:
I am about to replace my gutters, one guide I have read say the gutter should never be more then 30mm below the bottom of the roof tiles, another says 50mm.

What is the reason for this?

What is a safe distance?

(I want to get a good fall on the gutters and I expect that the bottom of my tiles are not level…   I am planning to fit felt support tray at a later date)


texts: Should I replace my Pressure Reducing Valve?

texts:
A few weeks ago, my oil-fired water boiler started continuously leaking water out of the pressure release valve on the top of the unit. I know this is leaking steadily because it drains into a 5gal bucket and I have dumped it twice now. I examined the system and determined that in order to keep leaking, water must be fed into the system from somewhere. So I looked up this Pressure Reducer Valve and determined its function - filling the system when water pressure gets low. I also read online that this valve can malfunction and let in too much water pressure causing this sort of leak.

My Pressure Reducer Valve is part number: Taco 329-3

I see screws... can this be opened and cleaned or should I replace this Pressure Reducing Valve entirely? Is there anything else I should check in my diagnostics?


texts: running sprinkler wire and power in same conduit?

texts: can i run the sprinkler valve control wires in a 3/4 PVC conduit along with one set #12 wire to a single outlet approx 12 feet


texts: Why do I need to turn off two breakers to cut power to an outlet?

texts:
I have to shut off two circuit breakers to this one receptacle only. It doesn't affect any of the others in the lower level except for one meaning I just shut circuit breaker One off.

When I took the receptacle apart, I found two pigtails--1 for the hot and the other for the neutrals. Please note that two wires from the hot pigtail went to the receptacle and only one wire went to the neutral receptacle from the neutral pigtail.

They both had three wires in their respective pigtails. I paired each of them to determine which is hot. Pair one lead to circuit breaker 1, pair 2 lead to circuit breaker two and pair three was dead with these wires going to the next receptacle on the lower level. Pair 2 wires leads to an outside outlet.

I tested them using alligator clips with a circuit breaker finder. Pair two wires through showed it was hot (also used a volt sensor) was in actuality not when I tried to wire them to a receptacle. Pair 2 needed the power from pair one to operate outside. I don't own a multimeter.

So why does it take me to shut off two circuit breakers? Hope this is clearer.


texts: Is it okay to store bamboo flooring in the garage before installation?

texts:
I just purchased some Cali Bamboo strand bamboo from a local installer that arrived yesterday. The installer was here to receive it (I was at work) and stacked it in the garage, boxes unopened.

The manufacturer's website recommends opening the boxes and sticker-stacking bamboo in the house , but the installer said the garage is fine. I wasn't able to get a hold of the manufacturer over the weekend to confirm that the garage was definitely a bad idea, but my understanding and some internet searching seemed to suggest otherwise.

Can anyone weight in on how big of a deal it is to have it in the garage rather than inside the house? It's about 1800 sq/ft worth, so I don't want to move it myself or make a big stink with the installer before I confirm that garage is definitely a no-go.

I'm in SF Bay Area (East Bay) and the bamboo came from Los Angeles warehouse -- pretty similar climate. I'm not sure what the temp / humidity difference between the house and the garage is, but overnight outside temp is about 20-25 degrees from daily high / interior temp.


texts:
A few outlets in the apartment I am renting have not been used for a while And I noticed dust accumulating in the hole where the prongs go.
Is it safe to use   outlets with dust in them or Should I remove the dust. If yes, how can I clean those holes?


texts:
My master bedroom has a set of French doors with a window above the doors. During a recent thunderstorm, I noticed the window was rattling. Upon further inspection, the window is held in with little strips of wood at the top, left and right, but not the bottom. there is also nothing sealing the gap between the glass and the frame/wood.

I'm going to remove the strips and the glass this weekend and reinstall it properly. My question is: what type of product should I use to seal the glass in the frame?


texts:
Non-electrician here - I have a small detached garage 25ish feet from the main service on the back of my house.
In consulting with an electrician he said the simplest way to get power out would be mounting a sub panel on the back of the house right by the main service, then just run 4 12/2,14/2 wires underground to a junction box in the garage. Easy enough, however unconventional.
I passed rough in inspection yesterday but because there is more than one circuit to a detached building (despite the sub being on the house) the inspector wants to see a separate ground.
So, I’m thinking I’ll install a ground near the garage, and run it in the trench back to the sub-panel. I think I also need to have the ground from the main service per updated code, so that would mean my subpanel, mounted on the exterior of the house would have a ground coming from the main service AND a separate two rod ground.
So double grounds in the sub panel. The neutral bus won’t be bonded. Any issues?
Am I understanding that correct? All thoughts are welcome.


texts: Do you need to service air conditioning units?

texts:
We recently had an air conditioning unit repaired.  When had done the job, the guy asked when the last time was that we had our units serviced, and looked shocked when we said we never service them; all we do is clean out the dust filters.  He says we should service them at least once a year, otherwise parts are liable to get damaged. Of course, the fee is no small amount; it's a significant percentage of the cost of the unit itself, and we have 8 units in the house.

We've had our units for several years, and none of them have ever been serviced, nor have they ever broken down for lack of servicing.  Have we just been lucky, or is there no real need to service these things?


texts: Prevent home door to freeze during winter

texts:
This summer, we installed a new front door. It was right until winter arrived. The problem is the following. When temperature goes below -5/-10 celcius, the door gets really cold and condensation freeze and form ice inside the house. As a result, it gets hard to close the door and the ice/condensation melts and everything gets wet around the door. Also the ice thickness close to the floor gets as thick as 4cm in some areas...

More about the actual door, it's "wooden"/metallic door. The frame is metallic and the exterior side of the door is also metallic while the inside part of the door has some kind of "wooden" panel.

It's clear that the problem is caused by the metallic frame, the room cannot heat the frame enough so the colds gets into the house and condensation starts... The door is inside a small "room" of 2m x 2m.

Installing a new door isn't a solution.

I have some ideas but I have no idea how effective.

Install a wooden frame on the outside so air cannot directly have contact with the door's frame.
Heat the room (I only have space to install something that would keep the floor warm. I'd pretty much have to redo the whole entrance and it's not clear if we can heat it enough so to prevent condensation.
Drill holes in the frame and spray some foam like Penosil.


texts: How do I operate this valve on the line to my refrigerator?

texts: The water to our refrigerator was not turned on when it was installed and I am now trying to get the ice maker working.  There is what appears to be a water hookup behind the refrigerator but turning the handle seems to have no effect.  How do I operate this valve?


texts: How can I determine if the mildew on the bathroom ceiling comes from the upper floor?

texts:
I live in a flat on the second floor. The building in which I live is
five levels high.
How do I find out if the mildew on the bathroom ceiling comes from
the upper floor? I removed the mildew just a few months ago, but it suddenly
reappeared. Apparently there aren't any broken pipes, but we are not sure.
Any ideas?


texts: Ways to make table top removable from base/legs

texts: I just finished my first wood project and it's a farmhouse table. I am going to be bringing this to college and I need a way to make the top removable from the base so it wont be so challenging to transport. I don't think anything involving screws will be a great idea because eventually the screw holes will get warped. What are some of your ideas to make this baby detachable??


texts: Would caustic soda destroy a rubber gasket under a sink?

texts:
Today I made the mistake of pouring caustic soda down a kitchen waste-pipe to unblock it. Despite reading that it's safe on plastic pipes, it created a terrible leak between the pipe and the underside of the sink. I assume it ate right through the rubber gasket.

Is this to be expected, or does it sound like the sink was badly fitted? I know how corrosive caustic soda is, but it seems like it's pretty common for exactly this purpose.


texts: How to cover exposed attic wall insulation

texts:
I have a small walk (crouch)-in attic from the closet of one of my upstairs bedrooms.  It has insulation on the walls that form the bedroom closet/wall.  Given how small the attic is, whenever I go in there and place/remove things I tend to brush up against the insulation pulling it out from between the studs (see pictures below).

I plan on stapling plastic to the studs to hold the insulation in.  Is there an issue with this plan?


texts: MayTag Front Loader Washer Will Not Fill With Water

texts:
My maytag mhw6000xw0 will not fill with water.  I have replaced the water intake valve, as well as the door lock latch.  After replacing both of these parts the issue still remains.

My question I want to pose is there a way to "bypass" the door lock latch to see if it is faulty?  I used a voltmeter to test and verify that the water intake valve is functioning power wise at it should.


texts: Small leak in 1 inch buried PVC water line

texts: I have a 1 inch line buried from my house pressure system to the barn, and it has a very small leak somewhere. Is there some additive that could be circulated through this line to stop the leak? Rather than digging it all up.


texts: Tankless point of use water heater that only heats when inlet is cold

texts:
There are other questions such as this that ask about a point of use heater to provide quicker hot water, but they don't seem to fit what I want.

Our kitchen sink takes a while to get hot, and I would like this to be more immediate.  If I use a small tank water heater (2.5 gal) under the sink, and connect that to the hot water, it seems that I would get 2.5 gallons of hot water immediately, followed by 20 seconds of cool water (the time it normally takes to get hot water) that would then gradually warm back up, right?

What I would love to have is an inline tankless, plug in (120v) water heater that would immediately provide warm (ok if not super hot) water, and then automatically turn off once hot water from the tank arrives so that the water is not over heated.

It seems like such an obvious solution, but I haven't been able to find such a device.  Is there a reason why this does not exist?


texts: I am considering a purchase of a clap meter but its initial purpose would be to test a circuit branch that is an ancient armored cable without ground, aluminum wire, cloth insulated (the house was built in 1909).  I am curious whether the clamp meter will work through metal sheathing.


texts: What can be used to fill a wide gap on a curved hearth?

texts: We just converted our fireplace back into a wood-burning one. When we discovered there was a matching hearth already under the carpet, it was suggested to us to cut it out and use it. Unfortunately, when the person doing the cutting started, he thought he was cutting around a border. He was actually cutting on the outside of carpet bar. Now we have this large gap around the hearth, and we aren't sure how to fix it. What can be put over the gap?


texts: 30A supply split to 2 15A arc fault, then recombined into 30A?

texts:
Boat using 30 Amp shore power, I recently had some arcing on the connection from power cord to boat socket. Have replaced both the connectors.
I am NOT an electrician by any means but have heard of arc fault breakers, I have not been able to locate 30A arc faults breakers (I suspect they are not available) and was wondering if I could split the input to 2 x 15amp arc faults which would then be connected together again to feed my power panel?
or does anyone know if and where I can get a 30A arc fault breaker?
in the last few weeks I know of several boat fires that killed, and after my arcing event I dont want to be the next.
Thank you for any help or advice you can offer.
Once I have some more knowledge I will approach a certified marine electrician to install it
Thanks again, stay safe
Scott


texts: How can I calculate how large an airconditioner my house needs?

texts: I know there are a lot of possible factors that go into determining the size of the air-conditioning system a house needs.  Is there a standard way of calculating what is needed, or do A/C companies each devise their own method?  Is there a guide somewhere to aid a home-owner in figuring it out?


texts: AC start up causes lights on separate circuits to blink

texts: I have a 16,000 BTU window unit 120 volts.  I ran a complete separate circuit to handle the load.  The unit is about 6 years old and this year my lights on separate circuits will dim for 1/2 second when the compressor kicks on.  What is the cause and is this a possible danger?


texts: Unlock an Omnia privacy lock with sliding mechanism from the outside of the door

texts:
Our bathroom has an Omnia brand privacy knob that I can't figure out how unlock from the outside of the bathroom.

Unlocked:

Locked:

The outside of the door has a small hole underneath.   I've tried sticking a screwdriver in the hole and trying to find something to slide.   There is also a little piece of metal sticking out that can move side to side a bit, but it doesn't seem to unlock the mechanism even if I put a ton of force on it.


texts: Do newly lined wood burning fireplace chimneys need to be broken in?

texts: About 9 months ago I had my masonry chimney lined with a stainless steel liner. The fireplace has been sealed for 20+ years.  I am hoping to finally be able to use the fireplace over the holidays. Is there any sort of break-in procedure that needs to be followed with a fireplace that has not been used in a long time and a newly lined chimney?


texts: Do I need to use two wire types for an indoor/outdoor run to a garage?

texts:
I need to install a 14-50 outlet in my garage to charge my car.  I have a 200 amp breaker panel on the back of the house.  It is approximately a 40' run on the outside of the house to where it would turn into the garage and then another 20' inside the garage to the outlet location.  I would prefer to have both the outlet and all of the wire surface mounted and in conduit as it would be very difficult to run inside the wall of the garage.
Do I need to use 2 different wire types for the outdoor and indoor sections?  What type of 6/3 wire would I need and what size conduit?


texts: Replacing kitchen sink, hot water valve under sink fails to stop water flow

texts:
Just got a strange issue where the kitchen sink will deliver only a trickle out of hot water tap when opened, the cold water flows just fine, the hot water works at every other point bathrm sink,tub,laundry. I'm looking at replacing the facet in the kitchen and realized the (hot water) shut off valve at my kitchen sink wont stop the flow turning it doesnt affect it at all. And it doens't appear i have any other place to stop the flow before the water tank, so i guess my question is do i have to shut off and drain my hot water tank in order to replace facet and shut off valve?
Thanks in advance.


texts:
Lower floor is tiled. Higher floor is plywood on some sleepers with laminate wood flooring on top. The difference in height is 1-3/4". I didn't take a picture but it's 3/4" furring strips as sleepers, 3/4" plywood subfloor and then laminate flooring on top with underlayment. The transition is at a doorway and the tile floor is right at the transition. The transition comes up at a 90 degree angle from the tile.

I was asked if I could help find a solution. Not much they could have really done to keep the height less I'm told.

Is there some product that can be purchased to handle this?

Otherwise I think building a small ramp out of 2x material and nailing some of the laminate on top is the only thing I can think of. Are there any requirements/best practices as far as slope? They'd like the ramp to be as short as possible while still resolving the trip hazard that's there.


texts: Hardwood floor refinish | correct / low cost finish?

texts:
I am refinishing wood floors on the smallest budget possible. I believe the wood is a red fir. It was installed in the late 50s and I think it has a worn layer of urethan. It has been under carpet for appox 20 years.

The goal is a rustic, rougher look - in as much that it reduces labor. I dont want a high gloss / glassy smoothy. If costs were not such an issue, we would spend the effort distressing it. I am leaning towards a hardening penetrating finish, but would like to get out of sanding it to wood (time, PITA, I dont want it perfectly smooth).

Q1. What determines if I can get away with scouring the surface of the existing urethan (some type of poly?) adding more build up layers of a polyurethane?

If I do have to sand down to wood, I will go with penetrating oil. Im not going to spend a weekend beating the floor with chains and wielding an ice pick, but I would like to highlight some of the existing distressing.

Q2. Can I put a dark stain on places of distressing before the initial sanding or do I really need to standings?

Q3. What are the trade offs of a hardening penetrating oil finish?


texts:
I have laminate flooring coming right up to the base of an external door. This door gets a lot of footfall, and has started to wear the top surface of the laminate where it meets the base of the door.

Does anyone know of a very thin, but durable, adhesive plastic sheeting that I could use to protect the top surface of the laminate for about 10 cm back from the door? It needs to be thin, as not to catch on the door. Iv'e used duck tape to halt the ware, but it looks rubbish; and need a more permanent solution.

If i replace the laminate it'll just happen again.

Something like this, would be good, but in white/grey, because I don't think I could get it to match exactly. I'm not too sure how durable this would be also.


texts: How does my refrigerator water line connect to the valve?

texts:
I was shipped a new Whirlpool refrigerator today. I had an existing 1/4 " copper tube that I used as a water supply line.

I cut the copper tube with a pipe cutter, and I slipped a compression nut and sleeve on the line. I slid the tube into the water inlet valve and tightened the compression nut.

After turning on the water (and verifying no leakage) I ran a gallon of water out the front dispenser. Suddenly, the fitting to which I attached the compression nut popped out of the valve and sprayed water all over. Apparently, there is nothing to hold this fitting in there. Am I doing something wrong, or is the valve defective?

The compression nut does not leak at all, and the water flows smoothly out of the fitting when it's removed as in the second picture.

This is the view inside the valve where the fitting plugs in. You can see the screen in there that stops debris. I don't see anything covering it.

Update: As you can see in the second picture, there is a lip that something in the green valve is supposed to grab. I can see two metal teeth inside the green valve that probably retract to grab the lip. Unfortunately, I don't see any way of making them retract. The blue cover on the front is like a public restroom screw: it's slotted such that it can be screwed on but not off.


texts: What is this? (Something to do with water filtering?)

texts:
I have the following thing in my basement and I'm not quite sure exactly what it is. I believe it has something to do with either hard water, or water filtration.

So my two questions would be:
1. What is it?
2. Can I get rid of it? (Or get a smaller version of it)?


texts: How to best light up small walk-in closet?

texts:
Context

I have a couple small walk-in closets in my apartment: they are 1-door-plus-few-centimetres wide (60–75cm) and fairly deep (95cm). The doors open from a hallway without direct natural light.

This, plus one's own shadow when standing in the doorway makes that the inside is fairly dark.

I intend to use the cabinets for: laundry (stacked washer + dryer), shelved cupboard, coats + broom.

Question

How to best light up such small walk-in closets?

My own  research so far is:

I want the closets to automatically light up when the door is open (lighting would be beneficial at any time of the day and I am way to lazy to open a door and turn the light on — plus I'm sure I would forget to turn it off).
I plan to bring electricity through the closets anyway, so power supplied appliances is an option.

What I have found is:

Motion sensor LED stick: I have one like this in my garage and it woks quite well but:

it is battery powered,
installed over the door: it wouldn't light up bottom shelves (plus there is still my own shadow)
installed on both side, at torso height: I fear they might fall or get knocked over as it's only hold magnetically.

LED strips along the door frame: this would solve the shadow issue, but:

I'm still concerned about the fixing via 3M tape
I'm not sure how to best switch the light on when door is open (motion sensor, physical switch when door is closed, IR switch?).

Regular light bulbs (as suggested here) don't seem like a real option (too bulky).


texts: How to best join baseboard to tile trim on wall?

texts:
The tile installer ran the tile trim all the way to the floor.

I need to reinstall the skirting board, but am unsure of the best way to join it up with the new tile trim.

What are my options?


texts: When can we put furniture in a new build house?

texts:
After the heat goes on, when can we put kitchen and furniture in.

We've been told so many different timeframes and it's hard to find any info via a Google search.

Our kitchen guy said heat needs to be on 8 weeks minimum but our contractor says 3-4 weeks? Anyone able to advise us as we don't want to risk ruining our stuff.

Thanks


texts: Does my vanity's sink need to be offset from the bottom-exit drain pipe?

texts: I am installing a new sink/vanity in a older house. The drain pipe for the sink is down through the floor (as is the water supply lines) and not in the wall. When I position the new vanity, do I need to offset the sink drain from the floor drain pipe to connect a "P" trap or is there a way to line up the drain and use some sort of special P trap that is designed for floor draining?


texts:
I have a couple Nest thermostats that I want to power when my boiler is powered off.

My plan is to hook them up to a 24v transformer using the existing R/W wires (no C wire and I don't want to run one) and just disconnect the wires from the boiler to that.

My question is do I need to add a resistor or some load to the circuit as it will just be going from the transformer, to the nest, and back to the transformer?


texts:
I asked this because the area of first floor is huge so that the front part is not warm enough. Three relevant question to be asked here.
1)Is it meaningful and possible to install two thermostat on one heating boiler and separate the heating zone into two on the first floor using the same boiler simultaneously?(By saying separated into two heating zone, I meant to say to separate the heating cycle of first floor into two on the same boiler)
2)when I do this, do I need to installed another pressure gauge?
3)What is the advantage and disadvantage when comparing with other plan?
It is a 20 feet times 68 feet house that had water heating system and a type of baseboard that using finned tube as shown as below, basement and second floor use separate boiler or water heat. Much appreciated if you enlighten me. If it is possible, please also cite website link.


texts: How should I connect a new outlet with two pairs of wires?

texts:
I have a kitchen outlet that stopped working. I"m in the process of replacing it. I've discarded the old outlet. I purchased a Hubbell duplex receptacle. It has brass screws on the left side with a split circuit tab between them and 2 silver screws with a split circuit tab on the right side.

Do I wire the 2 black wires onto  the brass screws and the two white wires onto the silver screws? My test light indicated that only 1 of the black wires is hot.


texts: Question About Fluorescent Ballast Substitution

texts: I have a fixture that uses one 36" T12 lamp. The recommended replacement ballast is a GE140RS120DIY. I am unable to find that ballast. I purchased a GE240RS120DIY ballast and wired it in.  I wire nutted the two yellow wires with one nut to a wire. The new ballast is for two 48" lamps vs. one 36" lamp. It won't light and I'm wondering the reason why. Is there a way to wire it so it will work? Right now I'm two red to one end, and two blue to the other end of the 30 watt lamp.


texts:
The IRC prescriptive deck guide calls for decks taller than 6' to have diagonal bracing placed parallel (planar) to the beam from post to beam.

My deck, which is built with a beam on one side and a house-anchored ledger-board on the other, with joists running perpendicular to the ledger/beam, currently has this diagonal bracing running from beam to post. However, I am planning on screening in the underside of my deck and do not want the bracing there. I am looking for alternatives. I was told that I could run the deck boards diagonally instead, but my deck surface is already in place and I do not want to redeck the entire structure.

Are there other alternatives, such as a prefabricated bracket I could buy to replace the bracing?


texts: Doubts about quality of wood-frame construction

texts:
I recently had a shed built by what I thought was a reputable company.  Now I'm in doubt about that quality of the construction, but I don't really have a reference to compare it to.  I'm looking for experienced opinions.

At least one of the builders apparently had a problem holding the nail gun straight.  Dozens of nails missed the studs, including some coming up out of the bottom sills of window frames.  Here's one of the worst areas, in the roof.  (The city building inspector passed this.)

The prebuilt door frame is screwed tightly to the framing on the hinge side, so there's a half-inch gap on the lock side.  As a result, the deadbolt is anchored in nothing but the wooden door frame and a couple of questionable-looking screws.

Two of the windows are sitting directly on the bottom frame, leaving a large gap at the top.  The other is visibly crooked.  When I had new windows installed in my house, the builders carefully shimmed the windows so they were centered.  I anticipate problems finishing the window casing with the large gap at the top.

The windows are identical to those on my house, but the shed builders used molding half as thick, leaving this huge gap and protrusion.  I'm concerned that water will enter here.

Am I right to think that these are problems that should be fixed?


texts: Can a dryer heat coil be used after it gets bent out of shape?

texts:
I was taking apart my dryer, and in getting the drum out, I bent some of the coils in the heating element.  I don't see anything broken, it's just not as spaced evenly in a couple of places. I'm going to get it as even as I can.
Is there a danger in using this element, provided I make sure the coils don't touch the metal base and the drum?


texts:
Kitchen outlets raise to 130 vac when coffee pot or toaster is on. At the same time bathroom lighting dims and voltage drops by same amount. About -112/113 vac
I’m a little confused after checking neutral to ground ok - reading taken from neutral to hot. Have not isolated circuit breaker as of yet. No voltage at neutral to ground. Are there two circuits or more being fed power?


texts: Vinyl flooring on a 100+ year old home with no level floors

texts:
Is it possible to install interlocking vinyl flooring on a home with not exactly level floors?
The home is 100+ years old and would require a major upgrade to make the floors completely level.
I'm looking to make an economical upgrade to the bathroom floor which currently has hideous sheet vinyl floors.
Can I use interlocking vinyl floors on a surface that is not exactly level?


texts: Is it possible to seal an interior barn door to provide an acceptable level of insulation between a conditioned and an unconditioned space?

texts:
I'm finishing a storage room in my house.  General layout, room is 12' x 12', door on one wall, window on opposite wall, roof peak ~12' above the axis between the door and the window.  Roof slopes down to either side, so the side walls of the room are about 6' tall, at which height they intersect the slope of the roof.

Now, there's about 4' of space between the side walls of the room and the exterior walls of the house.  I want to use this as accessible storage.  That means I need doors between the room I'm finishing and these unconditioned spaces.  Wall studs are on 24" spacing, and they hold up the roof trusses, so I'm not comfortable removing one.  That means the maximum dimensions of these doors are maybe 68" tall and 22" wide.  This is obviously not a standard door size.

I could build a custom hinged door, but I'm considering building a custom barn door instead, both for aesthetics and for looser tolerances in the build and install.  Thus my question: is it possible to seal an interior barn door to provide an acceptable level of insulation between a conditioned and an unconditioned space?


texts: How can I secure an outwardly opening front door?

texts: I have just replaced my front door that was inswing with an outswing door per county instructions on new door installation. My question is "how could I secure my door?" My previous door had a chain but I can't use that on my new door. Any clever suggestions?


texts:
I have a older Trane electric furnace, the heat only works when I have it in Fan on -heat, I get only a click when it is in auto-heat mode.

thanks!


texts: What type of glue should I use to repair my hardwood floor?

texts:
I'm replacing the tongue and grove boards in a section of my hardwood floor that were water damaged.  On some of the boards, I'll need to cut out the bottom edge of the female side.

On a YouTube video they recommended using a 2 part epoxy for securing the board in place.  I thought I could just use a regular wood glue.

What's the best glue for securing the hardwood floor boards?

Is gluing better than just using a few finish nails from the top?


texts: Connecting thermostat common wire to air handler or boiler?

texts:
we are planning to install a Nest learning thermostat in our house. On first installation attempt the device notified us that there was no power from the Rh or Rc wires which from my understanding is because the thermostat cannot "power steal" any current into itself without the common wire.

The setup is wired in the following way (please excuse my bad diagram drawings):

The air handler is always turned off in the fall/winter season, so my question is:

Can I simply run another wire from the C terminal of the air handler directly to the thermostat or do I have to run a wire from the common of the boiler? I'm not entirely sure whether it matters if the handler is on/off since I believe the common is just completing the circuit and the 24VAC is sent to the Rh/Rc. The documentation for the boiler states that the common/hot are used for a low water cut off device, so I'm afraid to use it as a common to the thermostat without knowing for sure.

The air handler is a York F2RP030H06B and the manual can be found here. The PCB for the air handler has the following terminals: R, Y, G, W2, W1, O, and C. Of which only R, G, and C are connected. R and G go directly to thermostat. The C wire connects to a wire labeled "Outdoor temp sensor wire" in the Navien. (See diagram)

The heating system is a Navien NCB-240 which was installed within the past two years. The wiring diagram is located on page 69 of the manual. The labeling of the Navien is a bit different than what I have seen from other's installations in the past, so I'm just a bit confused.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


texts: I hit a pipe with a mower and now it won't turn

texts:
I was mowing the other day and there was a pipe sticking out of the ground. The pipe wasn't carrying any services, just a piece of metal sticking out of the ground (I've now removed it).

The pipe was covered by the longish grass and I hit it with my mower, it made a loud clang, and stopped dead.

Now the blades on the mower are very hard/stiff to turn by hand. Using the pull starter is completely impossible, the rope would break if I pulled it any harder.  I'm thinking the drive shaft may have disconnected with the engine, but I don't really know a lot about small engines.

Some more information. It's a Husqvarna mower, one year old with a Briggs & Stratton engine. The engine is still under warranty, but the closest authorized repair place is two hours from where I live.

I'm wondering if someone has come across this situation before and would know if it's an easy fix or is the mower a write-off.

EDIT:

Thank you everyone for the answers and suggestions.  Due to the amount of warnings below, I'll take it to a repair place.  If some more information comes in I'll post it up here.

The reason I was thinking about fixing it myself was the support person from Briggs & Stratton gave me a suggestion to buy this Repair Manual

EDIT 2:
I didn't take it to a repair place and trying myself.  So starting to take it apart (spark plug is out) and get the top cover off.  The main wheel that turns with the blades can rotate 2 full turn freely and then for the next 1/4 turn it is very tight, then repeats.

EDIT 3:
Success!  After spinning the wheel and blades a bit more everything seemed to loosen up and now it's working!  Turns over with one easy pull of the rope.

EDIT 3.5:
Because if all the interest and concern over the pipe, see photo.  It was well inside my property line and I assume it was once used to hold a flag or sign.


texts: Panel breakers are alternately 90 V and 140 V

texts:
Everything in the house is acting up. The fridge has melted ice, the radio is acting strange, etc.

I multimetered the panel box and each breaker is either 90 V or 140 V alternately.
I have a plan to upgrade the box from 100 A to 200 A as the meter shows the system is set for 200 A. But meanwhile everything is acting up.


texts:
I have  about 2 extra feet of  heat tape, after I installed  it.
What do I do with  extra  length?

The directions say not to coil or double back. My question is with extra length leave it hang or what would you recommend?


texts: How to wire a solid state relay according to code

texts: I want to build an outlet that I can control on a timer or through a device like a smartphone. I am planning on using a solid state relay for this job. I'm aware of the electrical code stipulation that all low voltage and high voltage wires must be separated by a permanent barrier, as explained in this question. I was going to use a double gang box from home depot like this one to accomplish this. My question is, with the separator there, how do I connect the relay to the low voltage control?


texts: Last year our lights began surging and then my wife noticed the old fuse holder was broken and not making a good contact. We decided to upgrade the fuse panel and bring it closer to code. The first person hired was "doing it on the side" and got the panel installed but when the 4th breaker was turned on it created a helluva light show. Apparently 1 side was pushing 230 v while the other only 60 v. So now with only 2 rooms on 2 different breakers if we try to run any appliances at all the lights surge. I tried to simply test the voltage on the breaker and as soon as I put the black lead on the neutral bar every bulb on that circuit blew. As the owners we are allowed to do repairs as long as we hire someone to tie into power, or something like that. What I'm asking is why or how could a simple multi meter cause lights to blow by simply testing the breaker? Also, the breaker never did trip, just blew the lights. Thanks


texts: How should I connect a GCFI outlet and switches to the wires in my bathroom?

texts:
In my son's newly purchased house bath there is a box with 2 switches and an outlet. I am replacing the switches and changing the outlet to a GFCI.
There is power coming in on a 12/3 cable, 12/2 cable going to the vanity light, exhaust fan and a 12/3 cable feeding an adjacent bath.
My son had already removed the old equipment leaving me nothing to compare the wiring to. Can someone please give me the proper wiring for this situation? I’m not interested in the switches or the feed to the other bath being protected by the GFCI.


texts: Is corrosion a concern when hanging black iron pipe with copper hangers?

texts:
Can I hang black gas pipe with copper hangers? Is corrosion a concern?

Example:


texts: How can I attach a security gate where there are no studs?

texts: I installed a Munchkin MK004 security gate in drywall (no studs were available at the location) using the supplied screws and plastic anchors.  The gate hinges on one side of the opening and opens at the other.  Within a day, the hardware at the bottom where the gate hinges was pulling out of the wall (probably not helped by kids opening it every 2 minutes).  I replaced those anchors with molly bolts.  The same thing happened.  Should I call it a day, remove the gate and patch up the holes or is there another solution - such as using a snaptoggle or screwing a wood board across two studs and screwing the hinge into the board?  (Where there are studs on that side of the opening, it is also where there are bull nose corners and I think they are covered with metal and there is no wall on the other side of the opening).


texts: How can I non-destructively remove hardwood transition strips?

texts:
I'm trying to replace some tiles, but the transition between the hardwood floor and tiles has caused me some trouble. The hardwood floor was installed sometime after the tiles, so the transition strips were on top of the tiles.

I broke apart and removed the old tiles, and was hoping I'd be able to simply (but carefully) pry up the transition strips, install the new tiles, and then put the transition strips back in place. Unfortunately, the transition strips seem to be attached to the rest of the floor somehow.

It feels almost like a tongue-and-groove connection, as I can't get the strip along that edge to come up more than maybe 1/32". That just is surprising to me, because it seems like it would be very complex and difficult to have a cut angle like that and still have a tongue-and-groove connection. I was expecting glue maybe, but because of the way it bends it doesn't feel like glue or epoxy. I can work it back and forth and it doesn't seem to weaken or give any more.

Using the pry bar, I haven't pushed it really hard yet, easing up as soon as I can feel the floor start to move a bit, as I'm trying not to break anything (yet). I also haven't tried putting anything between the strip and rest of the floor, as I'm fairly sure I'll damage the surface by doing so.

Before I go to the fully destructive option (and just replace these with new T-Strips or something), can anyone give me some insight into how these are attached? What would a profile view of this board look like?


texts:
The bathroom has a light/fan mounted in the ceiling. The upper switch controls the light and the lower switch controls the fan.

The upper (light) switch needs to be wiggled and held in place to operate. As this is very annoying, I decided to replace the double switch.

I bought a new switch and wired it EXACTLY like the old one - red wire to upper right, black wire to lower right, white wire to upper left and bare wire to the ground screw.

The upper switch now controls the light AND the fan, while the lower switch does nothing.


texts: What type of support would I use for a hutch that is leaning inward?

texts: I have a hutch that is comprised of two pieces that come together. The bottom is a flat surface with a cabinet and two doors in addition to some storage space. Above it, is a more storage space alongside a small cabinet with a glass door. The top portion looks like a lower case N that is arched up. The issue is that it has been taken apart several times because I've moved it to the different places I've lived. The top cabinet and small storage space are closing it on itself and the whole top portion of the hutch is wobbly which is unsafe, obviously. Any idea of how I should support it, perhaps a 2x4 or 2x3?


texts:
I have a house with sump pumps on two sides. In the rainy season they run about 5% of the time. When one fails, as has happened a couple times, water runs gently across the floor to the other pump; no big problem.

The pumps are plugged into separate circuits.

My neighbor (an electrical engineer, not an electrician) is pretty insistent that those outlets should be GFCIs.

Is that required by code in California? Is it a good practice?


texts: Do truly air-sealed electrically-actuated duct damper exist?

texts:
I need to install an exterior makeup air duct to provide makeup air for my new stove hood.

My house is fairly tight, and I've been making energy efficient improvements including tightening the envelope to prevent air leakage. However, I do not see a single electric damper that actually seals in the closed position. They all have sizable holes in the gasket around the pivot pin.

Is there a reason this cannot exist, or have I just not found it yet? If they don't exist, is there a better alternative than a mechanical damper?

FWIW I would prefer a rectangular damper, but I could use a round damper instead -- the duct isn't installed yet.


texts: What type of header is needed for a door opening in load bearing concrete wall?

texts: I  have a walkout basement with a covered front porch 4'x 9', so the space under the porch is surrounded with concrete 9" walls.  I want to cut a door in the basement in the concrete wall, empty the gravel and other stuff from that space and turn the space into a storm shelter.  I will cut a small door in the 4' section which I enter through a closet.  The wall is load bearing as above it is a concrete slab, and 10' of brick.  What do I need to use for a header"?


texts:
I live in an apt complex built in the 60s. In my HVAC closet, I found chunks, including one like this, in the picture.

Does this look like asbestos fiber under the paper?


texts: Not sure how to successfully drill these pieces

texts: I'm trying to drill two pieces of wood similar to the angled pieces marked in blue. However, I'm not sure how to clamp these and can't drill them straight without the wood slipping. What's the best way to join them?


texts:
I have a stupid question.

Originally, I have a washer that pumps out the grey water into a laundry tub / sink. Attached to the laundry tub is a pump that pumps that grey water from tub into the drain pipe above the basement. It has been working for a few years and it has been the way before I bought the house.

Recently, my laundry tub pump died. Since I already have a big sump hole in the basement floor with the sump pump connected to it. Would it make sense to simply pipe that grey water from the washer into the sump hole and have my sump pump takes it out to the backyard away from the house?

What's the upside and downside of doing that?

OR should I spent the money and replace the dead laundry pump?

Thanks.


texts: Framing a door ON stairs, 3 steps to landing?

texts:
I have to build a door frame on a staircase.

Problem is, at the bottom of the staircase are already 3 doors on all the walls, so putting another door right at the bottom of the stairs (on the landing) would make the new door totally overlap one of the existing doors at the bottom.

So, I'm thinking to build the frame 3 steps up the stairs, so the door can swing open and not overlap the other doors. But then it wouldn't open on a landing, it would open on 3 steps of stairs THEN a landing.

Somebody mentionned that there's a safety hazard because the door wouldn't open on a landing, but then again if you're coming down the stairs, you've been up the stairs before so you know there's no immediate landing??

Is the code against this, or is it up to me to decide?

EDIT:
About putting the door at the top of staircase, the top floor is big, open "loft" type of room and the staircase leading up to it has no ceiling. It would be hugely impractical to frame a door at the top because..there is no wall or ceilings around the top of the staircase, just a guard rail :)

The main reason for putting the door at the bottom was to block public access to the stairs (the bottom floor of the building is a restaurant, the top floor residential -- very old building)


texts:
Thanks for reading, I appreciate it.  In my main floor bathroom, my cold water sink tap has incredibly high pressure.  All other water sources in the house seem to have a normal operating pressure.  Even the tub in the same bathroom from the same line only feet away has normal pressure.
I swapped the hot and cold cartridges in the taps to see if the CW cartridge was the culprit. The CW cartridge worked fine in the HW tap.  With the HW cartridge in the CW tap, water was still blasting out.  Not a cartridge problem.
I do not have a pressure regulating valve on my main water line.....not sure I need one, pressure everywhere else seems fine.
I`m stumped.  thanks for your insight.


texts: Metalwork - Is it possible to achieve a smooth surface (planishing) with just hammers and slappers?

texts:
I am making a motorcycle fender. First time working with metal. I understand the principals of planishing but understand that most people achieve the best effect with a pneumatic hammer or English wheel.

All I have available are hammers, forming dollies and a slapper. With a bit more work is it reasonable to expect that I can achieve the same results with the tools I have?


texts: Why does this grounding bar have three different kinds of screws?

texts:
I bought a Murray load center for use as a subpanel. Why do the large terminals in the grounding bar have three different kinds of screws?

Which of them should I be using for the feeder (4-gauge aluminum)

The instructions have no guidance on the different screws in the large terminals:


texts: How to cut hole larger than 1/3 of joist?

texts:
I need to run a toilet drain (3”) through three joists (9 1/4”). Code states holes in joists can not exceed 1/3 the size of the joists. Catch is for 3” pipe I need a 3 5/8” hole — which is larger than 1/3 the height of the joist.

Now what? I assume I could reinforce the joist? But I can’t find any specific info on this. Is there an official way to handle this?

EDIT: one workaround I’m seeing is that I could instead drop below these joists in a closet...which would reduce the height of the closet but maybe the best option?


texts: Would vinyl plank flooring allow liquids to leak through?

texts:
I'm looking to replace carpet on an upstairs bedroom and was thinking about going vinyl sheet (12' x whatever I need) to avoid seams. I need to have a hardwood look (requirement from the missus). The vinyl sheet looks pretty good, but the locking vinyl planks look even better.

We have two dogs that occasionally have accidents in that room. I'm concerned that vinyl planks would allow urine to possible get into the joint and then onto the subflooring (where it couldn't be cleaned readily).

So, would vinyl plank flooring allow liquids to leak through?

Other thoughts or comments on the subject would be appreciated.


texts: Do I need to use a bonding agent between scratch and base coat plaster on the ceiling?

texts:
I'm doing a traditional 3-coat plaster over wooden lath to repair a 4x4 hole on an interior ceiling.
I'm using StructoLite base coat plaster.
I applied Plaster Weld to the lath prior to putting up the scratch coat, but I wondered if it is necessary or helpful to use the bonding agent between base coat and scratch coat, especially as it on the ceiling. I thought it might improve the bond, but I haven't seen a many references to doing this, and the product was invented after the heyday of 3-coat plaster systems.
Is it necessary to wet the scratch coat prior to putting up the base coat otherwise?


texts: Why does my dishwasher detergent get stuck?

texts:
My dishwasher isn't working like it's supposed to. Everything seems to be working fine, but then after the machine stops, I open the door and see that my glasses and plates are suspiciously grimy. When I expose the detergent cup, I see this:

Clearly the detergent (I've tried a couple types) isn't flowing out from its cup like it should be.

What's the fix here?


texts: What replacement breaker for a Gould GQF20MB panel?

texts:
I have a 100amp Gould panel (relevant bits from the label):

GQF20MB - I-T-E Indoor Loadcenter

Use only I-T-E Type EQ-P Circuit Breakers

Since Gould is no longer made under that name, I've gone internet searching, and it appears that Siemens Type QP is a suitable replacement. Since I found this info on <random website> and I have more confidence in the folks I "know" here, I'd like to confirm that this is a suitable replacement, and if not, what I should be looking for instead.
I need to install a 15a breaker to replace a 20a breaker that some eager but dumb kid installed on 14/2 wire 30 years ago when the internet wasn't around to answer all his questions.


texts: What is this stranded silver ground wire in 40 amp circuit

texts:
USA Home, built in early 80s.
I was looking at my homes oven wiring and noticed the 40 Amp circuit has a special ground wire.  It appears to be twisted/stranded silver wires.
I could not see if a neutral was also included in the same cable.
Is this a common type of cable and what would it be called?


texts: What is the difference between various wood sealers?

texts:
I've recently become aware of the existence of various seals for wood. I'm lead to believe that they are necessary, but I am unclear on the differences between the types of sealers you can find:

Varnish
Lacquer
Shellac
Polish
… feel free to add

Would somebody please summarize the differences between and appropriate applications of each?


texts: Can I use DOCSIS 3.0 to connect to my LAN over coax?

texts:
Let me describe the bizarre situation here in simple terms.

I need to get an Ethernet connection from the network closet to the garage TV.
My main router is an OpenWRT Linksys wrt32x which has 5 gigabit Ethernet ports (1 WAN, 4 LAN; although this can be reconfigured for 2 WANs if we want for whatever reason), a USB 2.0 port, and a USB 3.0/eSATA port, both of which I can do whatever USB shenanigans I want (I own a rare USB-A male to USB-A male data link cable, and I've heard of running PPP over serial? if that's at all relevant).
There is a single data line (CATV over Coax) that runs directly from the closet to the garage. This coax line is marked "DIRECTV RJ-6 75 Ohm High-Performance 3.0 GHz," which is kind of weird because we've never used DIRECTV on this line notwithstanding.
The CATV signal isn't that important so replacing it with a data-only line is A-OK (but my ISP runs both on the same wire so I assume it's possible to do that myself as well).
I have a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem/router combo, the Cisco DPC3825, that as of now is being used just as a 4-port gigabit Ethernet switch. It has 4 gigabit Ethernet, 1 coax, and 1 USB port. This one doesn't have OpenWRT support unfortunately.
The most obvious solution, wireless, is not usable because it's what we already have-- it hasn't been working at all. Given how terrible the speeds on even 802.11ac with the device 15 yards away have been I think there's some sort of interference in the garage due to some electrical equipment, but I'm no expert. It could also be that the access point is shitty, but regardless I prefer static wired setups to wireless ones if possible.
I want to run a DOCSIS signal on this coax wire, over which the LAN (Link layer Ethernet/PPP/etc bridge OR network layer IP tunnel are both good) connection will run, that can be modem'd by the DPC3825. Essentially I want to be both the "customer" (garage) and the "ISP" (closet) at the same time.
The topology of the link I'd like to achieve is this:

|_______Accessible_________|_Inaccessible_|_____________________________Accessible____________________________|
|                          |              |                                                                   |
Router <--Ethernet--> [???] <--Coaxial-Line--> DOCSIS 3.1 Modem <--Ethernet--> Switch <--Ethernet--> Garage TV

Basically all I'm looking for is the [???] listed above. I've spent a while trying to find documentation on using DOCSIS for a LAN but nothing's turned up. It's not typical to run what's typically used an ISP's protocol WAN-LAN connection as a LAN-LAN connection, but I've actually done this kind of thing before, only with DSL/PPPoE instead, and it worked despite being super weird (all I did then was use OpenWRT as a PPPoE server and attached an old DSL modem). I want to take advantage of the modem I already own-- yes, MoCA/G.hn could solve this problem easy, but devices for them're quite expensive. Is it practical to emulate the PPPoATMoDOCSIS that my ISP uses?

I've no preference as to whether it's a solution involving layer 2 (Ethernet/PPP/etc) over DOCSIS or layer 3 (IP) over DOCSIS: just as long as I can get to my local subnet from both ends, it'll work; and since I've not been able to find anything about a sort of system like this, I'll try to try out what I can just for future reference if nothing else.


texts: 2X2 LED troffer with battery backup - wiring question(s)

texts: Looked around and saw similar questions, but not quite what I need.  I am replacing a 2X2 fluorescent fixture in my basement with an LED unit (Cree FP22-34L-40K-10V-EB14, install manual at https://www.e-conolight.com/media/productdocuments/document/file/e/s/essentia_install_fp14_fp22_fp24_series.pdf, and wiring diagram is page 3).  I didn't realzie it when I got it, but this one has a battery backup.  The old one connected to a switch on the wall, so it only has switched voltage.  After spending some quality time with a meter and some tape for marking wires, I have found and labeled the hot and neutral coming into the box.  I have a handful of other wires going through the box to power the other two lights on the other side of the basement.  Looking at the wiring diagram, and thinking this through, I am pretty sure I just need to pigtail the hot from the panel to both the hot and switched hot of the new fixture.  The neutrals can all go back the way they were, and the only thing added is the pigtail for the unswitched hot.  I am hoping someone can look at the wiring diagram and confirm that I am thinking this through correctly.  Thanks!!


texts: Refrigerator water valve from wall is not dispensing water

texts: I had a repair man come to check my refrigerator for a repair and the cost was more than a new refrigerator, so I did just that bought a new fridge.  When replacing the old one the water shutoff valve from behind the refrigerator the wall was very stiff, but I was able to shut the water off.  I now connected the new refrigerator and nothing is dispensing. it doesn't seem like the wall valve is dispensing any water almost like its stuck in the closed position.  I removed the fridge line and opened the valve from the wall and no water comes out or drips out at all.  I looked under the nearby cabinets and under my sink and can not find another water shut off valve anywhere.  What should I do next?  I can try and move my old refrigerator back to the kitchen to see if its the new refrigerator, but I don't think so since no water comes out of the valve when it is opened.


texts: How can I determine why my toilets are not flushing right?

texts: I just had all the stuff inside both toilet tanks replaced.  Now they aren't flushing right.  I checked inside the tanks and the water doesn't go all the way out.  It fills before it does so therefore you have to flush it twice or hold the handle down till it does.  What can I do to fix this problem?  Hopeing to hear from you.  Ruthann


texts: How does the float on the toilet chain affect the amount of tank water used per flush?

texts: I have a toilet flapper with an adjustable float on the chain. As I move the float down the chain, more water is released from the tank per flush. Why is this? How does the mechanism work?


texts: How safe are flammables as indoor cleaners?

texts: I just cleaned some range hood duct with Seafoam. I was wondering how long after initial application things like it or rubbing alcohol remain active on the surface to present a fire hazard. How do you know which ones are and aren't safe for indoor use where there may be sources of heat nearby (like the kitchen etc.)?


texts: How should I evaluate my central A/C to see if it's working properly?

texts:
I was once told by a service tech that they evaluate how well the system is performing based on temperature difference between the the return and supply sides.  On our first really warm day (80 °F+), I measured the temperature in the supply duct at about 50 °F; at the time, the interior temp was about 78 °F, so the temperature drop was about 28 °F; the air coming off the compressor was about 105 °F.  Measurements were taken with an instant read thermometer, waiting for the reading to stabilize.

I don't have reason to believe that the system is not working correctly, but if it's moving toward needing servicing, I'd rather know sooner than later.


texts: which or what type water pump for car washing in remote location

texts: I want to be able to clean atvs and car in my garage at home. My garage is a couple of hundred feet from my home which has city water. Its too cost prohibitive to run water to garage for the little I would use it there. My plan is to have a 55 gallon drum in the garage to store the water and need to figure out what is the correct pump to use for adequate water delivery and pressure. It will run on 110 volts and use a 50 ft 5/8 hose with a spray nozzle. Im thinking a shallow well pump with a pressure tank but not sure what size is correct. Any input very much appreciated.


texts: Is there an "inside box" switch (for smart lighting)

texts:
I recently bought some smart recessed lights (with smart dimmer) for the kitchen. The smart lighting system requires the power supply to the lights always remain on. Rather than placing the smart dimmer somewhere beside the existing light switch, my preferred solution would be to place the smart dimmer directly over the existing switch location. In order to do this, I was wondering if there exists an "inside box" switch. That is, a type of switch that can be tucked completely inside an electrical box (which I could easily access and still turn off, if needed, by removing the overlying dimmer).
Edit: I had thought of just "hardwiring," (foregoing a switch completely) but felt that might have been unsafe. The answers indicate this is not a concern.
The smart system I purchased is Philips Hue (GU10 bulbs and Hue dimmer switch).


texts: What is this noise coming from my gas furnace?

texts: Whenever I change my air filters in my furnace, I hear a boom noise. The last time I called DEER and they came out and fixed the problem (I can't remember what the part was called that was needed). It happened again, the booming sound, after I changed the filters. What could be causing this problem and how can I get it fixed and never have it happen again, even after changing the filters?


texts:
I had a large tree in my yard cut down to about 8' above ground. It now has two stumps joined at the base. I am planning to build a treehouse for my kids around the stump with the weight being held by 1/2 inch threaded rods through the trees holding up 2x10s.

The stumps are about 20 inches in diameter. I am worried that it might not be long before the stumps will rot and be too weak to hold up the weight of the treehouse.

How long of a life can I expect from my treehouse? Is there anything I can do to increase the life?

I am planning on treating the top of the stumps with bora-care to deter bugs. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.


texts: Dripping supply line from the toilet cut off valve

texts:
My toilet supply line is dripping, I can’t get it to stop. I had a dripping packing nut when the line was attached to the toilet, but since it was leaking in three places, I turned off the water and detached the supply line. As I was saying, now it’s just dripping out of the supply line into a watering can.
I have the pros coming in 10 days to replace my toilet and the shut off valve (old and likely the cause of this!anything I can do to keep me sane? I’ve tried the penetrating oil on the pack nut.


texts: Is a dedicated circuit to gas furnace always required?

texts:
USA NEC 2014.

Is there any way to dodge the requirement for a dedicated circuit for a gas furnace?  I need to hang one more small hardwired load right near the furnace, and would rather not run a new circuit.

The other load is not HVAC related, and this is an office outbuilding not a domicile.

This is on the side of the furnace and supplies the furnace.


texts: Hi I need to get this vent/pipe replaced but I don’t know what it is called. Can anyone identify it for me. It’s in my basement near the furnace.


texts: How do I connect a lamp wire to an actual circuit?

texts:
I've got an old lamp that we want to use as an overhead light fixture, which has lamp wire coming out of it. Currently, that wire terminates in the outlet prongs, but I intend to cut those off.

The question is, how do I safely connect that lamp wire to the overhead light circuit? Just hot to one wire and neutral to another? Somehow this seems not right to me.

I know it can be done, as there are plenty of examples of light fixtures with lamp wire going to the actual lights. I just don't know if those fixtures are hiding some sort of regulator or converter behind the scenes.


texts: Why are some of my circuits not working?

texts: It started with the oven not getting power and than if you turn on the front element on high everything would come on but not heat to full capacity and if you turned off the element or turned it off of high everything went off. And now my washer has no power to it and all the lights and garage door will not work in the garage. They are all on they own circuit breaker and the garage has its own panel with 3 switches. Any suggestions on what may be causing this?


texts: Can I program a garage key without rendering other programmed keys useless?

texts:
At my previous residence, I used to press a program/reset button on the garage motor to program a new remote. But that used to also make any other remotes paired to it useless as those remotes would need to be paired/programmed at the same instance. I may have been doing it the wrong way, I don't know.

Now at my current residence, the remote I was given by the real estate agent (ATA PTX-5) is absolutely dodgy (doesn't work sometimes), and recently the key-holder part broke making it independent and separate to my key bunch, making it easily misplaced.

I have the garage remote I used at my previous residence and wish to pair it to this current garage. I haven't looked at the brand on the garage motor, but thought I would ask if it's possible to pair this remote to the garage motor without 'breaking' the other remotes used by the other residents?


texts: How to bypass this component to a Tetco Heat Pump

texts:
I have Tetco Heat Pump system that came with my house when it was purchased.  About a year ago, I started hearing a water hammer in my pipes that I traced back to the solenoid(?) in the picture below.  It would continually "click" and cause a small hammer to travel back along my cold water pipes toward the main pressure tank. A small amount of water seeps out at the base of the "coils" when this is happening, as well.

The local firm that installed the Tetco unit is still in business and suggested that I try to bypass this component.  The instructions given to me over the phone was that I should be able to open up the top of device and manually lift up a pin.

After looking things over, there's not an obvious way to disassemble the device  and I'm hesitant to jump in without knowing more about the device and its function. I did contact a local plumper and he said he doesn't work on heat pumps and referred me back to original installers.

So, can anyone identify the component in the picture and its purpose? Is it safe to bypass and what is the proper way to go about it?

Edit: Video of “clicking” and knocking

https://youtu.be/7TYZdOBjJKM
https://youtu.be/KHxNaMSR9bo


texts: I want to be able to time my in wall air conditioner. Can I update the controller?

texts:
I have an old in wall AC/heater (brand McQuay, Now known as AMANA)  in my rented Apt, which cannot be time-programmed. Also it is not possible use an outlet timer because the AC must be turned on and off via the controller as you can see in the pic.
The controller can be unplugged and taken out which made me think I could possibly change the controller with something newer that have that ability. Is this possible? Otherwise, any ideas on how to time-program it would be much appreciated.


texts: What can I do about this deteriorating staircase?

texts:
The side entrance stairs to my home are deteriorating. They appear to be several different patches, coats and possibly capped concrete.

I have a temporary fix lined up to make it safe for travel. My question is: Other than demolition and replacement could I build a stair structure that could be built over what I fear is essentially beyond repair.

Secondary motivation to avoid additional concrete work is, I live in New England and as such sand and salt are facts of life. The salt especially is hard on concrete.

Any creative alternatives?


texts: Converting generator power to "clean" power for sensitive electronics

texts:
I have a Duromax "Beast" power generator that I've been using to run my home during power outages due to storms, etc.  From the start, I decided to do things right and had an electrician install an input outlet with a manual transfer switch onto an exterior breaker panel which feeds the house; a high-quality cable runs power from the generator into the panel.
We had a recent hurricane and once I figured things out, the generator ran things near-flawlessly.  However, in researching generators, I read about sine waves and how generators supply "dirty" power, so I was worried about using any sensitive electronics -- TVs, computers, cell phone chargers, cable modem, etc:  we unplugged every single one of those things and didn't use them.
I have a relative who is an electrician, and he argues that if I have decent surge protectors on those outlets, then all of those sensitive electronics should be absolutely fine, and this is echoed somewhat on a couple of sites where I've been researching this issue.  However, someone else argued what I was thinking:  surge protectors guard against spikes in power, not sudden drops or brief spans of low power...and those could possibly damage sensitive electronics as well.
Which of us is correct?  Am I being overly worried and good surge protectors are truly all I need?  Or is that honestly just a makeshift measure and there are better solutions?  Which one is likely to be the most effective...and economical?
Thank you in advance for all of your advice!


texts: If I'm in need of running a 12 conductor, 16-20awg ventilation system control cable and 2 conductors need to be shielded, is it OK to run a single shielded cable?


texts:
My room is 3×5 meters, it doesn't have a ventilation pipe connected to it, so the air becomes close very fast, and to freshen up the room I have to open the window, and it makes my room very cold. Leaving just a crack open doesn't give a lot of fresh air, but makes it cold and still hard to breathe.

Air conditioner doesn't really give me fresh air, instead it just heats or chills the air in the room.

What else is there to try to fix my situation?

My room is in an apartment, heated by central heating battery, only kitchens and bathrooms have ventilation connected to them in the building. Rooms are in their original state. The building is about 50 years old now, it's possible to change room from inside, probably impossible to make a hole to the outside.


texts:
What is the corrective measure when B Phase of load center is not providing power.  Does the entire circuit breaker panel have to be replaced?

Thanks!


texts: I have a spot of black spray paint on my floor (not sure how it got there). The tile is an outdoor-rated porcelain. I've used soap and water with a rough sponge and a course brush but haven't even faded the paint off at all.  Would paint thinner be safe on the tile?   There's also a small spot on the grout as well.


texts:
So I'm in Australia and unfortunately we run on 240v @2A 50Hz.

I've recently purchased a neon sign transformer but just realised that its got the below

Doh! Wrong input. I'm wondering if there's any way I can easily get the required input from my mains (I've also got access to 3 phase etc)? Does the Hz matter? If it makes any difference, i'll be passing the output through a Rectifier later to (hopefully) get 6kV DC @ 30mA.

The other question is what is 400 VA referring to and how do I get it?