texts: Can I run cables into the side of my breaker panel?

texts: The top of my electric panel is fairly full with cables. When I add another circuit, can I run the cable through a knockout on the side of the panel or do I need conduit to protect the wires?


texts: How to polish a metal flooring like the one in this image?

texts: What equipment/chemical is needed to clean my metal flooring.


texts: Can I backfeed a portable generator into my house's electrical system?

texts:
Is there a safe way to power my house using a portable generator? The power rating for the generator is 6kW, and I want to run my electric water heater (4.5kW) and my refrigerator (0.5kW) and possibly a few lights.

The water heater is the main priority, but it's wired directly to the house so I can't just unplug an outlet and plug it into the generator.

The method I've heard used most often is to backfeed into the dryer outlet after turning off the main breaker. I'm aware that if I don't turn off the main breaker, I could shock a worker or destroy the generator when the power comes pack on. I also know enough that I have to use a power line rated for the Amperage I'll be drawing. Are there any other dangers I need to look out for?

I had a friend suggest that I deactivate one of the heating elements and thereby reduce the amount of power that the water heater will draw. I'm guessing I'd still need 240V rather than 120, but I'm not sure. It would be awesome if I could just use a 12 or 14 gauge extension cord instead of a really expensive 10 gauge, but I don't want to do anything that will catch my house on fire.

Also, can anyone give me a detailed explanation of steps I need to take for this whole process?

(Any advice would be greatly appreciated. It's been eight days since we've been without power, and possibly 3-4 more until it's restored.)


texts: New house ceiling lights work but not pendant lights

texts:
Been in a newly build for 15 months. Kitchen has a chandelier and 6 candle lights. All good there. We also have 3 things for pendant lights that had been covered with a plastic cap.
Today I tried to install pendant lights, but doesn't look like there's any electricity getting to those. I connected the fixture, and all lights work except for the pendant lights. I tried two of the three. I also used a small voltage checker on the wires with the power on. Nothing.
Anything obvious I'm missing before I reach out to the builder?


texts: How should I wire multiple lights controlled by separate switches?

texts:
I need to wire about 4 light fixtures through a parallel circuit, I wanted to see if I am going about this the best possible way.

Each fixture needs it's own independent switch.

From the panel I am going into the first fixture's switch box, in the first switch box there will be 3 Romex cables; one from the panel, one that goes to the fixture and one that goes to the next switch box.

In the first switch box I splice all the Romex's neutrals, the hot that goes to the fixtures will go on one of the switches contacts, the hot from the panel will be spiced to the hot that goes to the next switch box and I will add a leg from that splice to go on the remaining switch contact.

I was planning on using this method on all switch boxes to the last in the run.

I was wondering if this was the best possible way of doing the wiring and would love to hear if anyone has any suggestions for a more efficient way.


texts: Floating tiled shower wall and a Schluter type edge

texts:
To make our walls perfectly flush, our shower wall needs to be floated but the tile we want to use doesn't have a bullnosed version.
As such, we were looking at Schluter type edges. If my tile is 1/4" and my set also 1/4", can I just pick up a 1/2" Schluter type edge and have it envelope the tile and the set so it is flush against the wall?


texts:
I’ve been in a bit of an adventure replacing the side door in my garage.
Dry fitting the door and I’m not too confident in what I have going on for the threshold.
The concrete was very uneven so I leveled it out with some rapid set mortar mix.
There are still gaps under the threshold and I’m concerned about moisture from rain and snow piling up in the winter.
Is this salvageable? Is there any kind of flashing I can put below the door to give some protection?
Any insight would be appreciated!
After a comment that the PT board isn’t needed here is a close up of under the threshold sitting on the concrete.


texts: How do I remove the little round plates that are back of a stud in drywall?


texts: Which wood is better for fencing STK Cedar or Knotty Eastern White Cedar

texts:
The below prices are in CAD

Home Depot has both varieties
Porcupine 1x6x8' STK Cedar S4S Fence =$9.42
Irving 1x6x8 Knotty Eastern White Cedar =$10.20

The Lowes version of the same board

Top Choice 1 x 6 Western Red Cedar Fence Board S4S -seems to be square on all sides -$9

Interesting that the pictures show the wood square (Lowes) and rounded (HD) for the same finish S4S

Google says:
Western Red Cedar Select Tight Knot Grade. This grade has a lot of personality and is used on siding , interior paneling and virtually any application. The knots and other natural features define the visual character of this grade. In this grade the knots are sound and tight.


texts: Is the 60T blade that came with my Dewalt DWS780 miter good for general purpose cutting?

texts:
I recently bought a Dewalt DSW780 12" sliding compound miter saw, along with 60T and 96T diablo blades. My question is, should I keep the blades?  Is the 60T blade that came with the saw good enough?  I'm thinking about returning the 60T blade to get a new blade for my table saw.  What do you think?

FYI, my current project is installing strand bamboo flooring (hard stuff!), but I would like to keep my setup as general purpose as possible, e.g. Crown molding, cutting plywood, making garage cabinetry, etc...

== Edit ==

The verdict: Stock 60T blade that came with the saw is good for general purpose cutting.  Returning the diablo 60T blade...


texts:
I tore out my front porch slab so I can waterproof the foundation. It was also sinking and since it has a column to support an overhang, that's a problem.
My question is what should I do about where it needs to come up to a level higher than the bottom of the vinyl siding? In an ideal world, the slab for the porch would be against the block foundation of the house, staying well below the siding. The level of the slab also puts it above the wooden bottom plate of the house. In the picture you can see by the dark line on the siding where the main level of the slab was (there is also a step up to the front door). It also looks like no forms were used by the house, the concrete was just poured against the siding. How would I do better?


texts:
I have a Empire CIBV-20-30 natural gas fireplace I installed in my home. It has 5.5 ft of vertical stack and 19 inches of horizontal stack going through the wall. I used the specified 4" bvent.

When it gets below 35 degrees outside the fire place will not vent. I have tried a horizontal cap, turning the pipe down 45 degrees, 90 degrees, and adding 2 ft of vertical outside. Nothing seems to work. It burns until the temp limit switch shuts it down and no venting happens. When its 40 degrees out or above it vents beautifully.

Any suggestions?

Tony


texts: Is this a bad tile work? what can we do to improve it?

texts:
Our contractors have almost finished the tile work in our half-bath. I noticed there were large gaps between the wall and the tiles. They are very noticeable. (Please see the pics.)
The gap,  the tile and molding of the doorway is also very large. The contractor told me that it  was because our wall wasn't even and he would put caulking to fill the gaps.
I'm wondering if using caulking to fill the gaps between the tiles and walls is  the right way?
Is there an alternative solution to make it better?


texts: How do I find whether I got the right AC?

texts:
Recently i bought AC (LG

  LS-Q18HNZA

) 2020 series. Somehow i feel i got cheated due to the below reasons.

There is no printing "New 2020 series" on the indoor unit box.
There is not stickers related to 2020 series on the indoor unit.
The remote does not contain 4-in-1 button.

How do i check whether i got the 2020 series product.


texts: Old house, crazy town in the basement in regards to wiring. I'd like to clean it up a little, at least visually - happy to get contractor out if needed - but not sure what to ask for. So what would be my options for for this? Vast majority of wiring is attached to joists with electrical staples.


texts: E12 led smart bulbs don't work in ceiling fan

texts:
I tried replacing two e12 bulbs with led e12 smart bulbs but with both leds the lights don't turn on with the wall switch or smart phone.

Here's the weird part. If I put one incandescent bulb in together with an led smart bulb then the led will work with the switch and smart phone.

I realize I can't mix these bulbs, but does anyone have an explanation for why the leds wont work together in the fan?


texts: Possible neutral problem - Utility side vs. Load Side?

texts:
PLEASE NOTE:  UPDATED CIRCUIT NUMBERING FROM 12 & 14 to 14 & 16

I would greatly appreciate your help with trying to diagnose a problem that appears to be an open neutral. In my kitchen I have three circuits (C). They are numbers 14, 16, and 32 in my panel. C32 is a single GFCI circuit that powers only my microwave. When I use the microwave the voltage on C16 drops several volts from 120 to around 116.  If I use another high current appliance (electric kettle) on C16 the V drops to 114-112. Add something else and it's dropped below 110V.  I've pulled the receptacles and checked the connections and also used the little plug in tester and it shows they are all wired correctly.

Each of these three circuits also run through a manually switched Reliance generator panel. Today the power went out and I started the generator and switched the Reliance panel to the generator.  I checked the voltage on C16 and it was 122V. I then turned on the microwave and the voltage on C16 started rising to 130V.  In place of the microwave I then let the Well Pump (240V) kick on. After it started the voltage on C16 remained at 122V (running on the generator).

The last thing I tried this evening (back on house power) was to run the microwave on C14.  In this case the voltage on C16 rose a little from 120V to 122V. Given that the two breakers are adjacent to one another I'm guessing they are on opposite legs in the panel.

I did check every connection on the neutral bar, ground bar, and every breaker, as well as the main neutral wire (multi-stranded aluminum) in the panel.

The other issue of concern is that my electric bill is about double that of my neighbors.  I do have 3 teenagers and electric hot water so that could be part of the problem.   :)

A friend who pointed me to the neutral problem told me that I may have recourse with the power company if the neutral problem is on their side. We have been through several microwaves, etc. My outside feed is from a pole not underground.

I apologize for the long winded description but I'm hoping it shed some light as to where the problem may be.

My question is this:

How can I determine if the problem is on circuit side of the panel or the meter side?  If I can determine it's on the meter side, I was advised to call an electrician to check the meter connections before calling the utility company as I don't know how apt they would be to take responsibility if it is on their side.

Here is a photograph of the circuit breaker panel:

Photo of Panel Label:

Photo of Reliance ProTran Switch Model 31410CRK:

I have checked all the connections for the transfer switch and I have added a tie bar to switch both legs of a MWBC between B-G on the transfer switch which are circuits 6 and 8 in the panel.  Otherwise everything is exactly as specified.


texts: water pump stops drawing water in few hours everyday

texts:
I have a water pump which draws water from a creek to irrigate the lawn. It had run for four months without problems. Starting last week, I notice that the pump would draw water for few hours only. Then, it would stop drawing, though still running, water. I turn off the pump, wait till the next morning, turn on the pump, and it would work for few hours before stopping drawing water again.

What could be the problem?


texts: Accounting for warp while welding precise corner joints

texts:
I am learning how to weld. I have a wire-feed arc welder (fcaw), 125 amp max. I am working with 1/8" plain steel.

My general technique isn't great but I'm working on it. My focus now is I am trying to figure out how to weld right angle corners while taking into account how the metal flexes as it cools. I haven't yet wrapped my head around how the metal moves.

As an experiment, I made two 90 degree corners. On one corner I did the inside first, on the other, I did the outside first. On both I went in opposite directions on the inside vs. the outside. After doing the inside/outside I immediately did the other side without waiting too long.

First I clamped the metal at 90 degrees and verified:

Next I tacked both sides in the center and confirmed again:

Then I did the welds and let both pieces air cool for a while until they were about ambient temperature (yeah, the spatter and the broken wire... working on it):

Then I cleaned it up with a brush wheel and checked the angles again. Both bent inwards:

The inside-first one warped significantly more, but neither of them turned out at 90 degrees. I expected the outside-first one to bend outwards but it didn't (one thing I should have done in this experiment is measured the angles after doing one side to see if the second side pulled it in the other direction).

One of the things this applies to is, I tried to weld four pieces into a square yesterday, and it came out more diamond shaped because I did the two opposite corners first and they warped inwards.

So my question is: What's the technique here? How can I weld precise 90 degree corners while taking into account how the metal moves? Can I prevent the movement somehow, perhaps do the welds in a different order? Some other trick? Am I welding too hot, maybe (there's a lot of spatter and some visible dig on the edges, but I don't know if this is a sign of a problem)?


texts: How can I get my new closet door rollers to roll?

texts:
Recently, I installed two new tracks for two closets (both with two sliding doors a piece). The first track works great.  The second track is having some issues, the back door rolls nicely,the front door moves but the rollers inside the track will not roll.

I have checked to see if something is obstructing the door from rolling on the rollers and cannot for the life of me find anything obstructing.  Tried lubricating due to this post, but no luck there.

How do I lubricate plastic rollers for sliding closet doors?

Basically, what seems to be occurring it is as if the wheels are stuck as they do not turn when the door is slid, so the door will slide but it is rather loud.  So, I pushed up with the door and I was able to turn the wheels so it is not like the wheels themselves are stuck.

I have also tried readjusting the roller bracket positioning several time just to see if that would help, but no luck there either.


texts: Ceiling fan outlet wire codes, help with Lutron mastero fan and light switch

texts:
I have two ceiling fan outlets in different rooms with different color wired.
1 room has
Yellow, brown and two white wires.
Yellow and brown are shorted
Two whites are shorted.

2 room has
brown, yellow and Black separate.

I want to have separate wall control for fan and light.
My fan has white black and blue wires (includes light kit)
I would like to use Lutron light and fan control switch.
Please help me understand which wire goes where.
Thanks


texts:
Can a smoke alarm with cut wires cause a fire? Not, that it might not detect a fire (I don't expect it to any more), but that the smoke detector itself may cause a fire.

For my specific case, I cut the red and black wires shown (pretty much all of them), and one of the ribbons running to the large silver capacitor/battery capped in yellow. See below for explanation as to why I did this. It is a smoke detector with direct electrical power through the building, and battery backup. Is it possible this could cause a fire?

As for why I did this, there is a reason, though not a good one. I came back from a bunch of long flights to my tiny apartment, I haven't been able to sleep for a long time and I'm feeling sick. In this stupor, doing anything to stop the low battery alarm so I could sleep was all I could think to do. Try as I might, I couldn't get the alarm off the ceiling, but the cover plate came off. So I cut the wires. Since it kept beeping, I cut the metal ribbon to the large capacitor/battery shown with one end capped in yellow. It kept beeping, so I went to nearby hotel so I can sleep. Now that I'm there, rested slightly, and can actually think, I'm worried I might have setup a fire hazard (not the obvious hazard that the alarm probably no longer works, but that it might actually cause a fire). Someone will be there tomorrow to fix things, but I'm worried about the possibility of actually having caused a fire through what I did. Is this even possible? Or will things be ok until tomorrow?


texts: What is the best way to level a tree log?

texts:
I'm making an end table/floor lamp from a 3 ft cut log. What's going to be the easiest or best way to level the bottom and top of this piece?
I thought about throwing it up on some saw horses and using the chainsaw to get it approximately level, then sand it to get it perfectly level.
Just curious if anyone had a better solution.


texts: How to fill a large gap between tile and shower tub to ensure waterproof gap

texts:
I incorrectly tiled my bathroom walls, leaving a 3/8 inch gap between the subway tiles and the shower floor tub.

I have purchased some back rod roll to help with caulk fill.
Before I put all this together, I have a few questions:

Do i need to prepare anything before I install this rod?
There are two drainage grooves - I have read that tiles are actually not waterproof and they sweat. This sweat drains down behind the tiles and runs along the shower tub lip and out on these grooves. I dont want to jam up anything or restrict water flow with these rods. Should I leave a gap? I'm concerned with a gap that water will get into the drywall
I assume I should lay the rod before grouting..? Ot not?
I know I'm an idiot for leaving such a large gap. Actually for following wrong advice, i.e. for drainage - we has really bad mold. Am I good with above approach as I really dont want to pull all the tiles off and reinstall drywall?
Any other warnings/advice would be appreciated to make sure this doesn't leak into my lounge below me.


texts: In slip joints, what's the difference between rubber and nylon washers?

texts:
I've put together a few different drain fittings, and usually seen nylon tapered washers that seal the slip joint.  But this time, when I bought a sink tailpiece extension, it came with a square-cut rubber washer instead.  After installing it, the connection leaks very slowly.  What is the intended use of the rubber vs nylon washers?
This is the exact piece that I bought, which included the rubber: Form-N-Fit 1-1/4 in. PVC Flexible Tailpiece Extension


texts: None of my 3 toilet tanks have a fill tube leading to the overflow, and yet my bowl fills with water. Is the fill tube necessary, as this is how to toilets were when we bought from the builder


texts: Do lapped joists need to extend over the beam the same distance from each side?

texts:
I know you should lap joists at least 12", and the longer the lap the better. However, in order to  use 8' joists, can I lap the joists like the image attached?
The beam in red is a drop beam.  The total lap would be 3'-1" long, but the 8' joist would only overhand the beam by 7'-1/4", so the lap would not be "center" on the supporting beam below.  Is this ok?
Edit: I should clarify, yes the joists would be connected together (sistered) thoroughly, likely using  a dense nail pattern, multiple 1/4" through bolts, but most likely Simpson Strong-tie’s Framing Screws.


texts: What are the green spots on our kitchen walls

texts:
Our kitchen has one of the main walls of our house which is a thick concrete wall. There is nothing behind the wall, just some empty space and then the neighbor's house. I just painted the wall with Flexa indoor water-based color, as grey.
Now, as you can see in the pictures, after a couple of months we see some green spots on the wall in different places.

My question is, what are these green spots? They don't look like mold or mildew.
Update

I just tested our cleaning sprays on the wall to see if it happens because of some spray drops but it was not the case.
This place is not reachable for our kids.


texts:
I remodel my fireplace and the hearth was poured concrete over:

I plan to install tiles over the 3 sides

However the surface is not even and not 90 degree

You can see the bumps from previous concrete which is not possible to remove at this point unless I use a grinder, which will cause a dust mess in our living room.

I looked at this question before but it is not applicable in my case:

How To Level Uneven Fireplace Hearth Concrete?

Questions:

Option 1: Should I try to use mortar and smooth out the surface and make it 90 degree as possible?

Option 2: Or should I just go ahead and install tiles with thinset and try to make the tiles as level and as 90 degree as possible by adjusting the thinset amount?

Both are difficult but it would be nice if I can do Option 2. However, I may end up not making the whole thing even / smooth and it will be a mess at the end.

Thought?


texts: Help identifying thermostatic mixer (shower temperature control)

texts:
I have the following valve in my shower.

I thought it was a Grohe, but after contacting their support - it seems it is not.

There is something wrong with the valve, not letting us decrease the temperature.

I need to disassemble the unit to find the problem. However, I can't figure out how to get the thing apart. Many units have a small allen key on the underside, this one does not. It was purchased in 2002, in Canada.

I have already tried removing the wall plate, but it was blocked by the knob for complete removal, and clearly the knob needs to come off in some way.

If someone can identify the unit, that would help me find the manual.
Alternatively general advice on disassembling these types of things.


texts: Updated How to secure electric mast to wooden siding

texts:
I need to secure a 10 feet service mast that will past through the roof on the outside. From grade to top of roof is just over 10 feet. Utilities company has stipulated that the mast must be at least 14 ft high from the ground. I have overlapping wood sidings so the surface is not flat (see updated photo).
Second photo shows the PGE's utilities spotting. The service line is surprisingly well clear of trees, considering it is OR, so I might be able to get away without guide wires if I keep the total mast height below 24 inches. Concrete tiled roofs make for extra work! The service feed line comes in from the left frame of the photo.
Two concern with using Kinkorf straps:

The overlapping siding is not a flat surface. Mounting the channel tube on it would result in about a 10-15 degree tilt.
The service line will be pulling from the left and the channel tubes also run left-right.

I can locate the studs, figuring that I can secure the Kindorf rails directly to them. This would avoid tearing out the wall panels on inside. Would these factors still result in a stable mounting using Kinkorf bracing? A second related question is, can I use the Kindorf braces to secure the meter socket? PGE's handbook says that the meter support backing should be a 2x4.
Thanks]1


texts: For increasing shower pressure, Mixer or thermostatic valve?

texts:
I all, I'm looking to purchase a new shower for my combi boiler and am looking to maximise water pressure output.

I'd like to know what one produces better water pressure? Mixer based or TRV controlled showers?

And are there any after market products that can boost the water pressure for a combi boiler system? Many Thanks


texts: Recommended paint for outdoor cement patio

texts:
In my back garden, I have a small cement pad. It used to have a shed on it, but the previous owner took it with them when they left. I've decided to turn it into a sort of patio, which is working well. My only complaint is the somewhat dreary appearance of the cement.

I'm looking to paint it. I was in the local supply store the other day, and they have a few options, none of which seem perfectly suited to this application. The options include:

Masonry Paint, meant for outdoors and cement, but probably not being walked on
Floor Paint, where materials include cement, but indoor use only
Tile and Step Paint, which is for outdoors, includes brick + cement, but only comes in a single colour (dark red)

Does anyone have recommendations around what type of products would be best suited for this application, and how they should be applied?

Thanks.


texts: Can a single cable type do the following

texts:
Running from a new 200amp main interior in the attached garage, out a 150 amp breaker into 4/0 cable (4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 assumed).  The cable will travel about 30 feet inside through raceways and EMT (2in), then travel outside another 50 feet straight run also in EMT (2in).  The EMT will get within 6 inches of the earth at the closest point (about 2 feet of travel), never terminating or touching/buried the earth.

Finally the cable will enter an exterior JBox where it will splice down to 1/0 Cu before re-entering the basement (also in EMT).  Why the 1/0 splice you ask?  I want to future-proof the main run with 4/0 Al so I could go up to 200amp in the future, but I can't use 4/0 into the existing 100A subpanel (the old main).  So the 1/0 Cu is the perfect ampacity intersection between a 150A feeder breaker that can take 4/0 and the 100A subpanel.  So even though it will initially be fused to 150A feeding a 100A panel, I want to size to a day when I replace the 150 feeder and 100a subpanel with 200 all the way (and replace the 1/0 Cu with 2/0 Cu).

Problems:
NEC 338.12(B)(2):  USE cable cannot be use for interior, and must terminate in outdoors enclosure.  -- So this type is a no-go for the interior garage run.

SE and SER:  (Can't run in the EMT at 90C from what I understand.)

Confusing.
Brian


texts: How can I replace the bleed plug for my towel rail?

texts:
I have a very similar type of radiator as this:

However doing a bathroom refit, I have somehow lost the radiator bleed plug which is shown in the picture above. So if I turn the radiator on, it obviously starts to leak water. Any idea what that is called/where I could get a replacement?


texts: Using a three-wire cable across two breakers

texts:
I recently had a new panel installed and asked for a couple new runs to be installed at the same time.
The electrician used a 14/3 cable (red-black-white) for each of these new runs, informing me that 1A = Red / 1B = Black and 2A = Red / 2B = Black. I think he did this as a favor to me as I told him I wanted to get my basement fridge on its own circuit. I've wired up the circuit; breaking the tab in the outlet with Red on top, black on bottom and each outlet can be control by their own 15amp breaker from the box.
I've read a few other posts, specifically this answer about this situation and I'm trying to understand about how/why/when the neutral could end up in a situation of 30amps. I was going to take my second run and split it at a box with A (Red) using 2 wire for my overhead lights and B (Black) 2 wired going to the outlets. This isn't terribly different than the first scenario with the split outlet, just that the two loads aren't beside each other in the final outlet. I just want to ensure I'm not wrong to wire it up this way or could get into the situation of the 30amp neutral.
Per requests, here is an image of the breakers in the panel. Bottom left 2 groups. I currently have one off as they aren't hooked up.
Edit/update:  Testing with a multimeter shows:

red/white = 120v
black/white =120v
red/black = 0v   --per comments this is a problem.


texts: What kind of ceiling is this, and what's the process like for making it smooth?


texts: Replacing sheetrock with greenboard after remodel

texts:
I'm remodeling a kitchen which will have tile extended to the ceiling behind the counters.  Currently there is relatively new sheetrock installed where the counters will go.  However there is insufficient electrical, plumbing, and mounting surfaces for open shelving.  I'm debating removing some sheetrock to make my life easier.  Since the entire wall will be covered with tile, hiding the patch shouln't be an issue.

Here is my question.  I'm debating removing 5 vertical feet and replacing it with 3x5 green board.  To be completely clear, I do not care if you think this is a waste of money.  Here is what I do want to know:

I want to know if there is a really good reason, besides money, why I shouldn't do this.
Is it sufficient to cover the joints behind the cabinet with mortar or would I want to skim coat the entire thing?
when bridging the gap between sheetrock and greenboard, should I use mortar or joint compound?


texts: rewiring toggle switch controled exhaust fan middle of run

texts:
I'm rewiring an old ceiling exhaust fan in a mobile home. The wires got frayed and shorted out. I foolishly didn't label all the connections when I disassembled it and now can't remember how it was connected. Since it is  in the middle of the run, there are two sets of wires coming in (black/yellow wire in each, no ground-old wiring). I did manage to label the fan wires - one goes to black one to yellow but I'm not quite sure how the toggle switch gets wired. Can anyone help me with how to wire the switch into this fan circuit? Thanks.
Margo


texts:
I am roughing in my kitchen wiring currently and have separated the counter top outlets so that I have two per circuit.  I also have a separate general lighting circuit in the kitchen.

My question is, can I use a two receptacle gangbox for one of the counter top outlets and a light switch if they are on separate circuits?

I am in Ontario in case it matters.


texts: How do I disable a thermostat to prevent it from turning on the AC?

texts:
I need to disable my thermostat from turning on the AC. Yes, covertly. I think one of my housemates is missing his native Antarctica. So, the thermostat still must be active & setable, but I want to disconnect the wire that controls the AC unit. I suppose the first question is: is this possible? If so, how?

The thermostat is a White-Rodgers 1F89-273. The current wiring configuration is:

C - Blue
R - Red
G - Green
O/B - Orange
X - Yellow
W2 - White + 2nd white wire connected to...
E - White, connected to W2
L - No wire connected


texts: Old wiring in house has cable with 2 white wires and one black. Trying to install new ceiling fan

texts:
I'm trying to wire in a new ceiling fan. The ceiling has two cables, looks like a switch loop.

Both cables have two white wires and one black. Both black wires are bundled together and two white wires are. This leaves two white wires, one from each cable, loose.

One is definitely hot coming from the switch.

Can i use that wire as my hot and the other loose wire as my neutral while wiring in the new fan?


texts: Replacement capacitor for my ceiling fan. 5μF300v

texts:
Problem

I have a ceiling fan that is running slowly. I suspect it's the capacitor at fault. I don't see any bulging, but the fan spins for all three settings of the pull chain switch.

Diagnosis

I have two more identical fans in other rooms in my house. I swapped out the switch housing assembly (the part with the switches, wires, and capacitor) from one of those, and the fan runs fine.

Questions

Is there a name for the block capacitor packages that have multiple capacitors inside of them? Some term that I can google?

I have been able to find block capacitors with three 5μF250v capacitors inside ... can I use this, or do I need to replace the 5μF300v capacitor with another 5μF300v capacitor ? I thought the fan is running at 120V, where is the 300V coming from? I don't see any kind of transformer.

If not, where should I look to find a suitable replacements capacitor? I contacted the manufacturer (Hunter), but they were no help. The only offered me a discount on the purchase of a new fan.


texts: Building permit minimum fees -- is there such a thing as a job "too small to permit" in some jurisdictions?

texts:
The electrical permits in my jurisdiction (Midwest USA city) run about $15 for a branch circuit off the top of my head (don't have the exact number, but it suffices for this question).  There are a few other fees added to them as well, but all in all, they do not add up to the $50 minimum fee requirement my jurisdiction imposes on permits.

Could it really be the case that the building department does not want people pulling permits for jobs the size of adding a single branch circuit to a house?  Or would it be legitimate to apply for a permit for a single branch circuit, and then give the building department $50 and say "keep the change"?


texts:
I recently pulled up carpet/padding and discovered a foundation crack. It looks to be larger on one end. It appears to be slightly horizontal, about less than 1/2 inch at it's largest end. The foundation is poured concrete, no basement. The house was built back in 2009 and is located in FL. There are no recorded sinkholes in the area. It's the only crack in the house and seems to be localized to one side. I've noticed a slight tilt in the door frame (that's always been there) located next to the crack.
My question is: Is this something to be concerned about? Do I need to call a company to come in and evaluate it, or should I just keep an eye on it?


texts: Propane - Putting liquid propane in a vapor canister?

texts:
I want to get a flame-weeder, but it runs off vapor propane.
The tank it comes with has a vapor valve - whatever that means.

Can I go get my propane tank filled up with any propane, or do I have to specify vapor vs liquid propane?

This is the canister that needs to be filled.


texts: How to deal with a corroded copper water pipe?

texts:
We have a corroded copper pipe. I'm not interested in what caused the corrosion.  I just want to know how to treat it. What can I do to stop the corrosion? Paint it?  What would I paint it with?

UPDATE:
Please see this post for the condition of the pipe.
What can cause copper pipe to corrode?
Note: the corroded part is the main water line and the valve forward is to our structure.

Can we just replace the corroded section?


texts:
I have a light on a dimmer that flickers so I was going to remove the dimmer and put a regular single pole switch. I've changed switches before so I'm familiar with changing switches when the power goes to the switch or the power goes to the light. I was a bit confused by what's going on when I turned off the power, opened the switch and saw the following (image included):

Two 14/2 cables coming into switch box:

Two blacks from both cables are twisted together with yellow nut
Two grounds from both cables are twisted together. The first red from the dimmer is taped to the grounds (behind the orange nut on the left)
The second red coming from dimmer is unused and still has the sticker saying not to remove.
White from one cable is twisted to black from dimmer (orange nut on right)
White from other cable is twisted to green from dimmer (orange nut on left)

One 14/2 cable coming into the light fixture:

Black wire from cable attached to black wire on light fixture
White wire from cable attached to white wire on light fixture

Thanks for any help figuring this out!


texts: What considerations do I need to make when mounting heavy objects on plaster walls?

texts:
I have just moved into an old apartment in Brooklyn. The landlord has warned us that all the walls are plaster with wood framing. I have not dealt with this type of wall before.  I would like to hang pictures (both small and large) as well as a fold away table that would weigh about 40 lbs. I have heard Plaster walls crack easily.

The Table top will be a modified version of an Ikea Vika table. I will be adding swing out legs, so as to support it when it is in the folded out position.

What considerations do I need to make with mounting these things to the walls, so to avoid cracked plaster, as well as the walls falling down?


texts: Can someone help me identify this spiral staircase system?

texts:
I am thinking of buying this spiral staircase to use to get to our loft, but was curious if any of you could identify the type of staircase that it is.

What is pictured is the section that sits on the floor, supposedly after that each step is a separate bolt-on unit.  Also odd about this setup is that there is no center pole.  I cannot seem to find a photo of a similar setup all put together.  The guy that is selling this does not know that much about it.

I would go check it out in person, however it is 3 hours away!  I welcome any information you guys can offer.


texts:
I have an old deck that was stained 3 years ago.  Some of the stains have come off and the deck does not really look good (living in Canada with too much snow and temperature changes, I don't blame it!)

So I am planning to stain it this summer.  In order to clean/remove the old stain, I came across multiple options:
- Use paint stripper and leave it for 15 min and then wash it off with hose
- Use a sander
- Use a pressure washer

Which one should I use? Perhaps a combination or perhaps all of them?

I read so many websites talking about different ways and I am confused

Your help is appreciated


texts: Light fitting had water in it - bulb has been removed, and the switch is off, but breakers for the downstairs light circuit won't turn on

texts:
I've checked that my problem is not a duplicate of this

Electricity passes through a bulb holder, even when the switch is off  because I don't have a backlit light switch.

The kitchen light fitting, below the bathroom, got flooded with water, water was pouring through it. Naturally this tripped the breakers for the downstairs lighting circuit.

There are 2 light fittings on the kitchen light, only one got waterlogged.

The bulb has been removed, and the light switch is in the off position, but the breaker for the whole downstairs light circuit won't let us turn it back on - when we do, there is a spark from the fitting, and the breaker goes off again. Clearly, there is some current passing through it, but why?

Does this mean that the fitting has been wired "Backwards"? i.e. the circuit goes live --> fitting --> switch --> ground?


texts: Wiring multiple switches off 1 load wire

texts: How do I wire a three way switch and a single pole switch off of 1 load wire?


texts: Im looking to support my aluminum awning that spans 16'10". It has 4 vertical supports. I would like to eliminate the two center supports.  At best it must support the weight of 2 ft of snow. What size square tubing should i purchase qlong with what size vertical supports should i purchase for the ends


texts: Can you tell from this frame if it is a nonbearing wall?

texts:
Just removed the drywall and need help to confirm if it's a non-bearing wall.
It's a 1900 duplex house and there is a similar wall on the first floor but it is not aligned, about 10" distance. Basement joists seems to be parallel to this wall.


texts: What precautions should be taken before draining a pool for cleaning?

texts:
When draining a pool: what if any counter measures are used to keep the pool from "popping up" or is this a myth?

The hurricane has left our pool black from mixing with storm water.  Is it really necessary to drain the pool or is it possible to filter and chlorinate?


texts: Can I put a wallpaper close to a light fixture?

texts:
I didn't find any information about it and I'm wondering if I can have a wallpaper close to a light fixture like the image below:

The reason I'm asking is because we recently added both the wallpaper and the light fixture. After it was on for a while we could smell something weird... There were no smoke or anything. But a smell. I think it could be just the head on the glue, but then I decided to verify if it's ok to have wallpaper close to a light fixture as I didn't think about it before.


texts: Is my plan to move and upgrade service panels reasonable?

texts:
I'm adding a workshop needing its own 200A panel, and power company (TEP)  is requiring me to move the service entrance from the house to the workshop (and upgrade to 400A panel) the house is to be backfed as a feeder 100' to its original (old) 200A panel, moving the entrance from the overhead meter to from below (see pic).  The bond between neutral and ground will be removed in the house panel.  the entrance feeder will carry 4 wires in a 2.5" conduit (Al250 Al250 Al4/0 and a #6cu ground wire).  ground rods will be kept at the house and tied to the incoming #6 ground (there is also a big ground rod at the shop where it is tied to the neutral leg) I finally Found an affordable box approved for 400A by TEP on a waiver, don't know why they are so expensive...
There is a bunch of space in the old 200a house box behind the breakers (the box is 5.5" thick, and the insulators just stand off 1.5" all the way up to the main breakers on top.  Can I run the new entrance below the breakers in the box straight up to where they tie to the lugs?  (ive never seen this on any other box... and I plan to run in the gutters as normal otherwise)

Does anyone see anything wrong with my plan (I wont remove the N-G tie till the day service is cut off)?
Edit: Proposed new 400amp all-in-one meter panel Is a Siemens MC0816B1400SC . Old panel is something from GE. Shop will need 200a, and Tucson Electric Power directed us to drop the service into the shop and customer (me) run back feeder to power the house box. Rationale was, they didn't have any more capacity on the pole at the house and the shop is closer to another pole (even though its just 100'). I had proposed the update recommended (320 service to house with sub at shop, they said "nope, no more capacity")
Here are the current knockouts on the existing House 200A box...I cant find the label on it with the make and model.  I do have some moving around to do for a couple of the existing conduits -out- to make room for the giant feeder into the center.
[
And here is pics of the completed install after inspection:  The three supply Hots and neutral go through the center section under the breakers up to the home owners meter.


texts: Do I need to sand between coats of varnish?

texts: I have sanded down a table and put 2 coats of paint on it. I have also applied two coats of varnish. The first coat was smooth but the second coat of varnish seems rough. It looks like wood that got wet around the corners. Should I have sanded between coats of varnish?


texts: What products will make installation of subway tile over laminate backsplash successful?

texts: I am updating my parents 1946 home (it has been remodeled & updated before but not kitchen counters) and want to change the look of original worn laminate counter & backsplash (bright yellow with tan and brown "boomerange" lines). I want to use new laminate on the surface of the counter (that should pose no problem) and put subway tile on the backsplash.  Everything I read says remove vertical laminate surface and replace with backerboard.  Problem is there is both a window (centered on length of backsplash) and a door that have molding covering the edge of the laminate. Molding is sure to be destroyed in the process (remember, 1946 wood) and this pattern of molding is no longer available (all the rest of the molding in house wouldn't match). So, I think since the backsplash will not be taking a lot of wear, it should be possible to just put up the tiles with some really good prep.  Question is, how, what products work best, is it feasible? I have spent hours online and have read both that it IS possible and that it is NOT possible.  Area to be covered is 8' long and only 14 1/2" high and is under wall cabinets.  Thanks for any input!


texts:
I had my roof replaced about a month ago and recently noticed that when it rains, a strong stream of water pours from the roof onto an adjacent window in the corner. In this problem area, I have one gutter stacked on top of another rather than a single gutter with a corner fitting in it, I guess because the fascia is higher on one side of the corner. It looks like the way the shingles are laid is causing water coming down the valley to get behind the top gutter and pour onto the window. The roofer came out to take a look and basically said that the shingles are laid properly and my gutter design is going to cause some water to get by. Below are some pictures of the problem area. Are these shingles properly placed for this situation? Is there anything I can do about the water getting past here? I'm concerned that the concentration of water is going to cause the window/siding to rot.

Edit: adding images from further away as requested.

Here is an image with a red circle around the gap where water is getting past the gutters:

And here's an image from below with a red arrow pointing from the gap where the water is coming out to the window that it is pouring on:


texts: Neutralizing concrete floor after cleaning cream with muriatic acid

texts:
I am prepping my concrete floors for epoxy. After removing whatever I can do mechanically with a grinder and cup brush, I was going to soak it in muriatic acid.

I did something similar to my exposed brick walls and the effects were fantastic, thar thing does clean. But I remember that I neutralized the ph factor with baking soda in water solution. Is this the right approach with concrete floors as well or should I use something else? If yes, about which ratio of baking soda vs water should I use?


texts: My garage door opener (Craftsman 1/2 HP) stopped working some time ago (even lights didn't come on). I replaced the circuit board and now the lights are working and the board reacts to the remote (rapid blinking) but the motor doesn't start (doesn't even make a noise). I decided to replace the motor but it didn't help. There is a large capacitor between the CB and the motor. When I press the remote my voltage meter doesn't show anything on that capacitor's legs. Could it be the capacitor?


texts: How to remove the top foot of inground pool wall?

texts:
I have decided to fill in my inground pool next spring, and am doing some upfront planning. My understanding of the "anatomy" of an inground pool wall is this:

So as you can see, the concrete patio sits on top of raw earth/dirt, and the wall (I'm not sure at this point what its made of, likely polymer) has some coping sitting on top of it (I forgot to include the liner which would obviously be on the outside of the wall and terminate in between the wall and the coping).

So first off, if my diagram is horribly incorrect, please begin by correcting me!

So I want to fill this in. Let's wave a magic wand and pretend we don't have to worry about building codes, and let's say that I have no intentions of ever building any structure/foundation over the pool at anytime. (If my comment about building code offends you, the "TL;DR" version is: I live in an extremely rural, 1-traffic-light town that has no building & code enforcement office. The town clerk claims that they delegate all building code enforcement to the county level. I called the county code enforcement office and they have no idea what the town clerk was saying and they claim they have no jurisdiction and never even set foot in the town I live in. LOL. Murica!)

Now then, the problem at hand. If my diagram is correct, then when I bust up the concrete (I'm going to rent one of those bobcats with a jackhammer attachment and just destroy everything in my path), there will be some 4 - 12 inches of wall exposed above the ground. Thus my thinking is that I will need to dig a trench and "cut" out this 4"-12" of wall around the entire perimeter of my pool like so:

Any ideas as to how I might accomplish this? Of course, if my understanding about pool "anatomy" is incorrect, I might not even have this problem in the first place.


texts: Replacing bulb in Janeiro surface mount ceiling light (not LED)

texts: We had these Janeiro flush mount light fixtures installed 7 years ago - not LED. M10122 is the model number I believe. The light went out and we tried to remove the dome but it did not come off easily with twisting, pulling, turning each way...and the whole fixture fell from the ceiling leaving a big hole. I have not been able to find the installation instructions online and the store we bought it from is no longer in business. I am looking for the electrician who installed it but cannot find him either. I am wondering if we have a faulty fixture? Or if the electrician sealed it with glue instead of using screws? It is not LED so I assume there should be a way to remove the dome to replace bulbs. Anyone have any ideas?


texts: Tile over 2x6x1.5 T&G subfloor, spanning 48" beams

texts:
Long time lurker, first time poster.

I think I might have a solution to my problem but I'd like to get some peer review on it before I start work.
I'm remodeling a master bath (50sf, 10x5) in a 1966 ranch and would like to add some nice tile.  I pulled up the 5/8 particle board underlayment to inspect the subfloor and found it has too much deflection.  The subfloor is in decent shape, however the 2x6x1 1/2 tongue and groove boards span a post and beam setup by 48".  Everywhere I looked said this is a no-go for tile and I agree.  Since the subfloor spans under walls and such, I don't want to rip it out and start from scratch so I want to add joisting from underneath.  Here's my idea:
1.  Span a double hung 2x6 between the beams on both sides of the project area, 48"ish span.
2.  Hang 2x6 joists 16"oc between the double hung 2x6 cross beams from step 1, adding construction adhesive to the top of the 2x6's. Span is about 60", perpendicular to the subfloor planks.
3.  Screw the subfloor planks into the new joists from above before the adhesive sets up.

From here, can I get away with 1/4" ply underlayment glued and screwed with 1/4" cement board mudded & screwed to it if the new joists stiffen things up well enough? A flat threshold is really on my want list. I'm open to a sloped transition, however.

Any other "gotcha's" that I might be overlooking?  I thank you in advance for reviewing my question.  Please let me know if I left out any details that leave ambiguities in my setup.


texts: Is air intake pulling in humid air a concern ?

texts:
We've got a server room in a project where we dont have AC.

Ive got a room which we plan to setup as per the rough diagram here, which details the air intake vent and the air extract fan / vent.

The rack room has 3 external walls.

Would there be any issues regarding humidity / humid air being pulled in from outside when its raining ?


texts:
Last night, my kids woke me to tell me that power was out to half my house. This has happened a couple times in the past and we found that all of the neutral wires were loose in the electrical panel. I expected to find this again but everything was tight.

Several months back, I had problems in my kitchen (2 circuits). I locked the breaker out and eventually dropped the lead from the breaker.

I changed all of my breakers, including the main, this morning because these were the original ones in the house from 1984. Prior to changing breakers, I checked the voltage on all breakers, including the breaker that I dropped the lead to (it was off, by the way) and on this one breaker that was off I had 220 volts across it.

My question is this, would that breaker cause all of my issues or is it something more? I know this is an odd question. I'm trying to make it through the holidays and then I'm going to hire an electrician to rewire my house.


texts: Levelling newly opened area between rooms

texts:
We removed a wall to make a kitchen bigger - to use as an eating area.

The kitchen has vinyl flooring, which we are now changing to porcelain tiles.

The way it is now, there is about 1/2 inch rise on the kitchen side.

How can we cover the space where the wall was, so that the floors will be mostly level?


texts:
We live in San Francisco, CA.  We're attempting to replace overhead lighting in our kitchen area of our condo.

I'm trying to understand this piece of the lighting code:

According to http://energycodeace.com/site/custom/public/reference-ace-2013/index.html#!Documents/appendixja8qualificationrequirementsforresidentialluminairesusin.htm

There's this:

(e)  An LED light engine shall be capable of being installed in luminaire housing without using any type of base or socket used for incandescent lamps; it may include a GU-24 or modular quick connect, but shall not include screw base sockets or adaptors of type and size E12 through E39.

This seems to indicate that we can't use an LED light engine that has a screw base of size E12 to E39.  Which seems counter intuitive.

I'm seeking some clarification on this.

Thanks.


texts:
Facade is peeling off wooden wardrobe doors. Seems to happen more at certain times. Weather related?
In any case how to fix? Wood glue?


texts: Different circuit breakers keep tripping, some not re-setting

texts:
Background: South Carolina house built in 2009, assume all electrical systems, main panel and circuit breakers new at that time. I moved into the house in May having transferred from the UK. I brought some electrical equipment with me from the UK, and have been using step-up transformers (SUT) to power the UK items as well as purchasing some new US ones.

About 2-3 weeks after moving in one circuit started tripping, and eventually would not re-set. It fed a secondary bedroom (being used as an office including using a 500W SUT) and adjacent bathroom. It tripped even after unplugging everything, re-setting, and trying one lamp (running 3 x 8W 120V LED bulbs). I was working away and my wife called an electrician. We hoped that the fault might be covered by Homebuyers insurance!

He diagnosed that the SU transformer had caused instability (so not covered by insurance as it's a condition we introduced), that the circuit breakers were sensitive, and that once a breaker starts tripping it's likely to keep tripping. He changed it for one that was 'less-sensitive'.

Since then several other circuits (around 5 different ones) have tripped, some where SUTs are in use, and some not. They often just trip, and don't seem linked to introducing a new load, and normally have fairly low load items plugged in (eg wifi router, LED TV, LED lamp). Some have only tripped once, others more often. Some trip a couple of times (within 5-10 minutes while trying to reset) before staying re-set, others stay reset after one trip.

So far all have re-set and not constantly tripped until last night around midnight - the circuit had a 1000W SUT plugged in and switched on, but all attached appliances were switched off and no new load was introduced.

The breaker will not re-set, even after unplugging the SUT - it trips instantly.

Questions:
- is the link to instability when using SUTs valid?
- if yes could the instability 'transfer' to other circuits where there is no SUT?
- once a breaker has started tripping, will it keep doing it and need replacing?
- is any of this 'normal' in the US? My experience in the UK is that a breaker will rightly trip if my wife boils the kettle and plugs an iron in while the tumble drier is running (!) but otherwise 'new' systems are pretty stable. This seems to be happening almost randomly and when there is no new load being introduced.

Thanks

Edit - some additional thoughts on factors which I have introduced which might be useful (assuming this wasn't happening with previous owners):
- I have added surge protectors, either directly or after SUT to some of the circuits which have tripped.
- I am using a pair of powerline adaptors for wired ethernet which crosses two of the circuits which have tripped (the original secondary bedroom/office problem circuit and a downstairs closet which is on the same circuit as the living room on which is an LED TV, Apple TV and a sounds system all through a surge protector).


texts: Are pull chains available for wall switches?

texts: I have a regular wall switch for a ceiling lamp. After floor renovation it became so high that we can not reach it. The idea is to install a pull chain switch so chain will hang on the reachable level. The problem I was not able to find it. Is it available? I can see only fan or lamp switches.


texts: Removing bathroom tile from cement backerboard

texts:
I started removing what I believe to be 12x12 ceramic tiles which I’ve found out are adhered to a concrete backerboard which is adhered to a plywood subfloor. I’ve scoured the internet and have found some similar questions but nothing which fully satisfied me. Basically, my tiles are chipping in tiny pieces when I am manually chipping them off with a chisel/hammer and I’m looking for a more effective, less time consuming, less intensive method to remove them. I was initially going to try and keep the backerboard but it’s getting a bit chipped up and since it’s so inexpensive I’m thinking of just ripping it out as well. I was thinking about buying a rotary hammer with a chisel blade and going to town but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas or tips that might help me out? I do have a decent amount of power tools in the garage so if another tool is the answer I might have that lying around. I have not seen any screws in the backerboard so far (I’ve only gotten off like 8ft^2 of tile, though) but I was also worried that if I tried to lift/remove the backerboard and it did have screws that I didn’t find it could damage my subfloor, which I am obviously hoping to avoid.

Thank you so much for any assistance anyone can provide!


texts: Wiring a Nest Thermostat E where current thermo feeds 2 controllers

texts:
Moderator, please don’t simply close this question if the other question asked wasn’t the same, and the answers weren’t applicable.  That was sort of thoughtless. Not helpful.
Thank you in advance - anyone who can help. I’ve just moved to a new home. I have a Nest Heat Link E that I had installed in my previous house.
It was pretty straight forward there.
This new house has a single Bosch boiler with programmable controller (time settings for on/off) built in, just like my previous house. However this house also has a secondary programmable control unit (upstairs) where there is a hot water distribution unit. Here is what I’ve found... if I put the main programmable unit (at the boiler) “on” continuously, and set the upstairs one on Auto (programmed) the heating will only come on when the upstairs unit is “on” and the thermostat is calling for heat.
Here is the wiring diagram and pictures of the thermostat I’d like to remove; replacing it with the Heat Link E.


texts: Can i connect my solar system to the ground wire of a grid outlet?

texts:
I have solar panels on the roof (ungrounded) and an ATS to switch between solar (ungrounded) and grid power. (grounded)

EDIT : Sorry, my question wasn't clear enough, I'm talking about AC. My questions are :

1-  can i connect cable number 1 and 2 ? (1 is connected to a ground rod and 2 is the ground wire running in the house)

2 - Can i put copper wires around my solar panels / inverter box and ground them by connecting them to the grid power ground wire too ? (wire number 1)

NEW EDIT : I should add too that I have some appliances connected directly to the grid power too. (And its ground wire 1.) Can they interfere or something ? Aka green wires here are just a cord connected to an outlet from the grid.


texts: Is a 240v solar panel setup better than 120v?

texts:
I am considering a small 1kW solar system (4x 250-watt panels). The seller offers them in both 120v and 240v configurations with "micro-inverters". Given a 25-year panel warranty, could the amperage reduction and following lesser (but is it measurable?) heat output of having the inverters output 240v on the AC side have any measurable impact in longevity over running at 120v?

I can as easily do 120v as 240v. Running a line from the breaker box is not a problem. I'm just curious if there's any actual measurable benefit over time with running 240v instead of 120v. I use a 240v outlet for my computer just for the 1%-2% efficiency gain, so I don't need much of an excuse, but I have no idea if DC-AC conversion gains the same benefit.


texts: Garage door needs light switch on to operate

texts: I just bought a house.  To use my garage door I just flip the light switch on(in photos)  but this also turns on the lights as well.  So to have my garage door always enabled I would have to leave the lights on all the time.  My question is, would it be okay to just remove the light bulbs and leave the switch on? The main light (orange cord) goes all the way to the circuit breaker, which is in my neighbor's backyard (stupid, HOA design).  The other light looks like it just plugs right into the outlet.  I can't reach any of these.  Just want to know if it's safe to just leave these bulbs out.


texts: Shower tub leaking - is this the washer I replace?

texts: I have a slow drip out of the tub faucet even when the cold water is off. I have disassembled the cold water handle and attached is a picture of the stem. I think that the washer in the middle is the culprit. Can anyone verify if this is the likely cause? Recommendations for proper way to fix?


texts:
A picture is better than words...

That's water shooting up from the connecting point during a heavy shower earlier due to the pressure.


texts: What kind of screws for attaching an Ikea style coat hook of an internal door?

texts:
I have this Ikea coat hook, that I'd like to mount to a door. But I would like it to be rather sturdy to handle some bigger winter coats.

What kind of screws are recommended for (what I think is a typical) internal door?


texts: Why won't the brake release the drum (tub) in my Simpson 950 Eziset?

texts:
When a full cycle is first started there is no "click" and the tub no longer turns as the machine does its "little bit of water here and a little bit there" routine before commencing the wash cycle. The agitator is working. Same when it come to rinse and spin or drain and spin: the water will drain, the agitator will spin but the tub is still locked so the agitator rolls all the clothes into balls against the wall of the stationary tub. I have changed the drain motor/brake solenoid unit for one known to work with no change to the above.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for finding why brake is not disengaging?


texts: How should I wire / connect a new ceiling light to this ceiling junction box?

texts:
UPDATED CEILING JUNCTION BOX PHOTO PROVIDED.
I’m wondering if I can ask for some assistance in installing a new ceiling light to an unused (blank plate)ceiling junction box. The light switch in the room has 3 unused switches.
This is the light fixture which is pretty standard.

There is a black, white and copper wire.
When I removed the ceiling junction cap, this is where I am puzzled.

There are 6 wires capped.
2 separate whites with double wires.
1 black with double wire.
1 red double wire.
1 orange single wire
1 green multiple wires.
The orange wire is from the side hole.
The red wire comes from the bottom 2 holes.
1 white comes from bottom right and middle hole.
1 white comes from bottom right and top left hole.
The black comes from bottom right and top left hole.
The green comes from side hole and bottom left hole.
I guess all these wires are due to the 3 switches in the room?
I first wired the fixture copper wire to the green ground screw on the mount not shown here.
Then wired the junction double black to fixture black, and 1 junction double white to the fixture white. The light turned on but won’t turn off from any of the 3 switches.  Changing to the 2nd double white to fixture white resulted in the same, with light on and unable to turn off.  So either whites to the fixture white is unable to allow the light to shut off.
How should I actually be wiring this so that the light turns on and off according to the switch.
I hope I explained the ceiling wires properly.
Any help is much appreciated.


texts: We live in a bi level house. The basement windows are about 2 inches above ground level, and plenty big enough to escape out of in an emergency. They let in plenty of light, and we have never had a problem with leaking. Why would I need a window well? My husband seems to think we need them.  ( Lived here for 8 years no problems). I've tried to add a pic. But it doesn't seem to work


texts: Where can I find very strong wall brackets capable of supporting a punch bag?

texts:
I'm looking for an alternative to brackets actually made for punch bags as those available to me are very expensive. I need a bracket capable of holding a ~35kg/77lb punch bag that would be swinging around. Ideally a part of it would stick out giving the bag some space.

I'm struggling to think of what these brackets might be called so I can find a way to search for shops who sell them etc.

If it has no mounting holes, I could drill one, so that doesn't matter too much.


texts: I'm replaceing a portion of drywall on the ceiling between floors 1 and 2. For the drywall, I plan to add backer boards on edges. The issue is there are joist blocker boards running perpendicular between the joists. Can I "legally" notch a quarter inch within the center one-third of the perpendicular joist blocker board?


texts: How can I prevent the receptacle in my yard from tripping the GFCI used to power my sprinklers?

texts:
I have a GFCI in garage that protects one receptacle in the garage and one in the yard.
The GFCI receptacle itself feeds the sprinkler timer. The other receptacle in the garage is hardly used. The receptacle in the yard is used for a small water feature pump.

Occasionally, the pump trips the GFCI.  I am looking for a safe solution.  First I thought,
maybe I could change the yard receptacle with a GFCI (two GFCI in one line), but I read that is not a good idea. Any safe solution?


texts: Installing chain link fence gate, need advice on terminating the existing fence top rail

texts:
I'm installing a fence gate in a chain link fence (with neighbor's permission, of course) I would like to use the existing fence post as the terminator post for that chunk of fence, rather than replacing it.
I have been unable to find the right hardware to terminate the top rail at the 1.75" post. Everything that I've found has been for a 2 3/8" terminating post.
Can I just cut off the horizontal pipe, put something over the end, and leave it in the existing cap? Is there another way to terminate the top rail?
[Edit] new picture to show the location of the terminator post that the gate will be hung from.


texts: Do I need to retrofit a junction box when replacing a vanity light?

texts: I am installing a new vanity light. I took down the old one from 1997 and found that there is no box behind the light, only the cable coming through the drywall, (black, white and green/ground.) Is it okay to just hook up the new fixture to this set up? Why would there be a need for a box?


texts: What is the purpose of horizontal blocks on a bearing wall?

texts:
In my basement, the bearing wall has horizontal blocks between each stud, similar to what you see in this picture:

.

There is one place on the wall where one of the blocks was removed to place an electrical box, and another in the bathroom rough-in to make space for the vent stack. What is the purpose of these pieces, and am I safe to remove one to place another electrical box?


texts: How can I mount a keyboard tray under my hollow desk?

texts:
I went to mount a keyboard tray underneath my desk, and discovered that the desktop was hollow (despite what the sales guy said... Guess I should have trusted my instincts).

The desktop piece is a hair over 3/4" thick.

The tray is intended to mount with 3/4" long screws (these don't quite break the surface when the mounting bracket is factored in), but there isn't enough material inside the shell of the desk for the screws to grip on to.

Looking online, the best I could find was someone with a different type of desk finding some studs inside the desktop. I'm in the process of getting my hands on a stud finder to check on this, but for now I'm assuming it won't be an option.

A friend suggested pushing a bolt down from the top of the desk, with a washer above the desk to help distribute the weight. I'm okay with the bolts disturbing the surface of the desktop (it'd be outside my work area), but I'm not sure of the aesthetics. I'd also like some idea of how well this would work before drilling more holes in the desk.

An ideal solution would be something that I could insert into the interior space of the desk for the original mounting screws to attach to. But I'm not sure that such a thing exists, or that it would work in this case.

I'm also open to other suggestions.

Note: Apologies for not including a photo. I just wasn't sure what to take a photo of. If there's anything that needs clarification in the above, please let me know.


texts: What is the name of this pool or irrigation part?

texts:
Currently in a swimming pool shed. A distributor?
This device takes water in the top, and outputs it alternately to one of five pipes at the bottom. When working it makes a clockwork sound. There are plastic gears inside.
When I know what it is called then I can get parts for a replacement.


texts: Where do you hook up a neutral wire to in a D/pole thermostat?

texts: I am installing a D/pole thermostat to a 5000w 240v Garage heater using 10/3 wire and a 30amp d/pole breaker.. question is.. where do hook up the neutral (white) wire too in the thermostat box


texts: Lamp between switches in multiway-switching

texts:
I've noticed that using my mains tester the light in the screwdriver lights up regardless of the position of the light switch near the door. It seems to only not light up when both switches are in some "off" position (although you can't see which is on/off).

I thought that the lamp is after the two switches so even if one of them is in "on" position and the other one in "off" the wire should be dead and only be hot if both are in the "on" position.

So... if this isn't the case at my appartment does this mean that the lamp is actually between these two switches so that when the first switch is in "on" position the wire at the lamp is hot?

(Actually yes, there's no such thing as on/off position. In usual multiway switching they just need to be both in the same position for the circuit to be closed.)


texts: How to secure the bottom of a moving box?

texts:
How to secure the bottom of a moving box, so that it doesn't accidentally open up while lifting when it is filled with heavy items?

Searching on Google suggests that I should use a good packaging tape and do H taping and H+X taping for heavier loads. My question is, "Is this enough?" Will it ensure that the box won't open up?

Last time, I used a 2" styrofoam sheet and cut it in the same dimensions as the moving boxes and placed it in the bottom to ensure that a box doesn't accidentally open from the bottom while lifting. However, I am pretty sure there is a better way of doing this.


texts: How to handle joint between uneven ceiling drywall?

texts:
After removing my cabinets for a kitchen remodel I realized that the previous owners installed a new drywall ceiling below the existing ceiling after installing the previous cabinets.

Now I have a 10ft wide 13 inch length gap that I am filling with drywall to "even"/"finish" the ceiling for the new cabinets.

I noticed that at the center about 5 feet point of the ceiling where the new drywall meets the old, the old drywall is sitting about half an inch lower than the rest of the ceiling for about 6-8 inches.  Will joint compound, mud and tape allow me to "hide" this dip?

85/ right above where the sink will be so no cabinets will cover it.! Dip starts towards the right side of the picture.  [drywall ceiling]
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0HMn.jpg)


texts:
I have a ceiling light which is held up by am electrical box. The box is hanging down at an angle.

I opened the box and found that one side of it is secured to what I hope is a cross brace. The other side is not secured.

Also, the ceiling flexes upwards in this area when I push on it.

Is there a way to level the box so the light hangs flush with the ceiling?


texts:
I have a steam boiler (natural gas fired) and I'm wondering if I can safely use a small UPS to backfeed power to the boiler, in case of a power outage.

I'm not sure how much total run time I'd get - we're talking a 1500VA UPS with conditioned (sine wave) power output. However, the boiler only has an automated damper, the control circuitry, and the pilot ignition system - no fans, no pumps, no power vents - so the draw should be very low and not even constant.

I'd like to find out/test, in any case, how much run time I'd get with this setup (for emergency purposes).

The boiler is fed from a non-dedicated 15A breaker in the main panel. The feed goes into a J-box containing a dual socket receptacle and a switch. I have confirmed the switch cuts power to the boiler, when thrown. Therefore, the switch acts as a kill switch to the boiler.

Therefore, I concluded that if I were to throw the kill switch, throw the breaker for good measure,  and then back-feed the UPS into the receptacle, the risk of back-feeding into the grid would be nearly zero. And it's temporary, no modification of existing wiring is required.

I know that folks can't really say this is safe, I know it's against code.

Are there any considerations that I haven't listed here?


texts:
I have a AuqaPower Tankless water heater I installed myself 2 years ago.
I used the old wire from old (tank) water heater and I ran a new wire for the 2nd place.
It has worked great for 2 years and never an issue, 2 nights ago while cooking I noticed the water was really hot and had to turn it down. About 30 min later my son went to take a bath and no hot water.
I checked breaker and it was not tripped- the next day I even changed out the breaker.
I tested the 2 lines (before changing breaker) going into the water heater and the new line is getting juice but the old wire is showing none.
Does anyone know what could be the problem?
I am very handy around the house and I have pretty much remodeled my whole house with the help from my dad- but this has me stumped!!


texts: Air handler turns on even when set temp is reached

texts:
My HVAC is a heat pump system, the air handler inside is a Goodman aspf183016ea. The whole system/house is about 3 years old, and is all electric. I recently moved into the home and noticed that the air handler blower would continue to run even when the set temp was reached, whether heating or cooling; the condenser unit outside would shut off correctly, but the fan would continue to blow. This even occurs when the thermostat is set to off (fan is set to auto). The fan would occasionally shut off, but it was very rare. I had a technician take a look and he said the issue was probably a bad relay switch. He replaced it, but I noticed the issue was still present and called him back. He said he wasn’t sure why it would still be doing this, but replaced it again with a “heavy duty” one and just ensured me that even if the fan blows, it wouldn’t draw much power.

Now, the fan does shut off when the set temp is reached, but it keeps turning on and off in 10-15 minute increments; I’ve timed it, and it’s not exact every time. I’ve also noticed when the fan does come on (when the set temp has been reached and shouldn’t be on), I hear an audible noise from the blower unit, like a switch activating, before the fan turns on. I’ve since replaced the thermostat (formerly a Honeywell FocusPro 6000) with a Nest Learning Thermostat E. All the connections were made accurately, and the heating/cooling/fan controls work properly, however the fan still switches itself on and off in the same intermittent manner. I know the Nest thermostat has a setting to run the fan every hour for a set amount of time but I haven’t activated this.

Is the problem still with the relay switch, and should I have a technician take a look again? What else could the problem be?


texts:
What is the difference between a dressing stone and an abrasive file? For example, items 61463610555 and 61463686100:
www.nortonabrasives.com/sites/sga.na.com/files/document/Catalog-SharpeningStones-Norton200.pdf

They're both the same shape, size, and both aluminum oxide so I guess the difference must be in the binder but I am not sure what the difference would be for an abrasive file versus a vitrified dressing stick.


texts: How to properly install allure ultra vinyl planks?

texts:
I'm considering installing Allure ultra planking in my basement over asbestos tile floor. No moisture problems and I did the saran wrap test and don't see any droplets at all.

While researching how to install it I can't wrap my head around what happens when you cut a piece.  It says the "simplefit locking edge" on the short side should stay on the left.  But what happens when you cut a piece?  Do you have to throw away what is cut that doesn't have the edge on the left side anymore? It seems like there's a lot of waste produced.  I'll ask the home depot guys about it but want to be prepared in case I get the wrong person at HD.

Also, any tips on cutting it lengthwise if I need to?

Sorry, I've never installed flooring before.  Thanks in advance.


texts: Advice on soldier course and first course of laying pavers in I-Pattern

texts:
I'm about to start laying my pavers. I am going to use the I pattern. I have three pallets of pavers, of 6x6 and 6x9 blocks. 25:75 ratio.
I'm not sure how to start the "soldier course" that's the course at the very edge of the patio field.
I was thinking if I lay just the I's (6x9) all the way down, that's two pavers horizontal and two vertical, then come back and fill the spaces with the 6x6 blocks, it should work.
But I want to check here and see what others have done to see if I'm on the right path.


texts:
One of our old wall mount jets in the shower broke. The pipe got rusted. The plumbing suppliers do not sell this kind of wall shower jets in California because of regulations. I am wondering if I can get it from outside of the state of California, and how would one go about it.

Here are the pictures of that shower jet. I can provide more details if required.


texts: Open Neutral Circuit yet all circuits outlets and wiring appear connected

texts:
I am stumped...I have not had an electrical problem in my family room and have lived in this home for 11 years...until a few days ago. A few days ago I plugged a laptop charge cord (new and in normal condition) into an outlet in this circuit and it didn't work. I checked the breaker and it wasn't tripped so i flipped it OFF then back ON 2-3 times without remedy. Next, a single gang floor receptacle in that same circuit of 6 outlets, showed reverse polarity with my outlet tester. I checked it because for a long time the lamp that was plugged into this outlet has had a make/break intermittent connection at the plug/receptacle prong location with no concern for the outlet itself or it's wires being loose. I replaced the floor outlet (white to silver screw and black to copper with ground to green screw) thinking this could be shorting-out the circuit and the tester then showed all outlets in this circuit as OPEN NEUTRAL. I had not seen that previously and never had an issue with any outlets in this circuit...not even the outlet that first caught my attention with the laptop charge cord not powering on. I plugged the lamp in to this same floor outlet and it illuminated for 2 seconds then turned off. The entire circuit has not worked since the laptop charge cord failure.

Since then, I have checked ALL SIX circuit outlets, replaced all six receptacles using screw connections and not using stab connections, visibly checked all box wire connections (and all look very good). I then checked all other outlets in my home and all test 'Normal'. I even looked in my attics and crawl space. I looked for GFCI's that might have been tripped but all are normal (even turned them OFF then back ON). I turned my breaker for this circuit OFF then ON many times. I removed my panel door and made sure that this circuits black hot wire was screwed tightly to the breaker then followed this black wire to the romex panel entry location, located it's paired white neutral wire, followed that white wire to the panel bar it is screwed into and made sure it's connection is tight (both were affixed appropriately). I even checked and tightened ALL other wire screws on both panel bars. I was stumped...I even reversed the black and white wires in the floor outlet i installed just in case the manufacturer, Hubbell, made an error in assembly with the copper and silver screw locations. Of course, that showed reverse polarity so i returned that single gang receptacle to it's original and intended configuration (white on silver and black on copper).

End result, my family room circuit tests OPEN NEUTRAL despite my doing everything I know to do. This is a first floor room with a vaulted ceiling and no electrical outlets in this circuit outside of this one room (I tested). My crawl space, below, is clean and dry with no visible signs of wire damage. My panel screws are tight. My outlets have been replaced with new ones and screw connections were made tightly.

I also tried two different three prong testers with the same results. After reading some comments, i checked my attic where there is an attic vent fan that i know has been in disrepair for years...but it is on a different circuit and unrelated (when i turned off the family room circuit in question then tested the attic fan romex for current it is still hot)...so i assume this wouldn't relate to the open neutral family room circuit issue.

I am at a complete loss and would really appreciate any help.


texts: Is it a bad idea to put in replacement windows in the winter?

texts:
The house I moved into recently urgently needs some replacement windows.  For example, in the kitchen, the original windows aren't there any more.  It's just some sort of quasi-storm window.  It's very cold and drafty.

We didn't have time to work on this until now.  But now it's mid-November.  If we order custom windows from a big box store, it will take at least three weeks for them to arrive.  Would it be a bad idea to install the new windows in mid-December?  I am in upstate New York, close to Pennsylvania.

The alternative would be to temporarily install some plexiglass just to get us to spring.


texts: How can I stop this drain pipe from backing up?

texts:
In my basement laundry room is (to my knowledge) the only drain pipe in the whole basement, which hooks into the end of the main line as it exits the house and heads to the septic tank. When we moved in a year ago the drain was loosely plugged by an expanding ring cap. Never having owned a house before I didn't think much of it, but soon enough I learned what it was and why it was there, when a liter or so of black sludge backed up and forced the cap off and nearly ruined the carpet outside the room. Needless to say the smell was horrid. We cleaned it up as best we could and I snaked it five times (and two more from a toilet downstream [installed right onto the main drain line]), but nothing was draining, so we called a plumber.

The plumber took a much larger snake to it and eventually got it flowing again (after ripping out the toilet and snaking it from both directions) but couldn't identify the source of the clog. Meanwhile all the material that was coming up looked like mostly-decomposed food (though nothing we actually eat strangely enough) mixed with the sludge. We also noticed that running any water in the house except the aforementioned toilet caused the sludge level to rise in the drain.

Now the kicker - despite flushing the drain out with buckets of water every few days, a year later it has happened again. We took the same actions to clear it up, but still have no idea what the source is or how to fix it.

The drain itself smells awful, and has since day one (they had it masked with an air freshener when we moved in) so I'm sure it's an ongoing problem, but I'm clueless how to fix it without literally ripping up the basement to replace the pipe.

Can anyone offer advice on how to solve this issue or at least theorize on what the cause is?


texts: Is it safe to cut the plug off a power strip (then reattach it) in order to run it through a wall?

texts:
I'm trying to hide the cable for the power strip that my TV is plugged into by running it behind my drywall. However, I have to go through a stud.
I'm thinking I can probably drill a hole through the stud small enough for the quarter inch cable without opening up the wall. Still trying to work this out, but seems like an angled bit, or even a long enough bit should be able to do it. The plug on the power strip however, like most, would likely be too big to get through any hole that I would want to drill in a stud.

Question is, is it safe to either cut a power cable somewhere in the middle, or cut off the plug then rewire it or a new one in order to run the wire, then reattach the plug once it's through?

Attaching a picture in case I'm being completely unclear. FYI, the white cable in the picture is just being run to pull through whatever cable I ultimately end up running.

Open to any feedback at all on how to accomplish this, including how to get a hole drilled in that stud (though again, this seems like it should be fairly straightforward with a long enough drillbit....and yes, I plan to be very careful about not drilling through wires!!)

Thanks in advance for any help!!


texts: Insulation inside AC unit has mold and falling apart

texts:
I noticed the exterior on my AC units has small black circles and I assume it is mold. A few days ago the drain was plugged and the condensation all backed up inside the unit. I had the drain fixed but now the insulation has mold and pretty much falling apart. I want to replace them, what's the best way to do it.

Please see the pictures. Thank you.


texts: Well Pump Setup: Best Materials to Use for Pipes

texts:
I live in Southwest Florida, and we have well water. I am in the process of redoing our whole well input plumbing setup and wondering about the best materials to use.

This is what I'm proposing as a flow/materials:

The well pump pumps up water in a PVC pipe, which right past above ground transitions to a steel pipe. (Currently setup from the old system)
This steel pipe goes into a steel Tee that has one side go to PVC for a sprinkler system, and the other side of the Tee goes into the ground utilizing metal, and once underground transitions to PVC. (Currently setup from the old system)
That PVC runs about 4' to a Well Shed, where it pops back out of ground utilizing steel, and goes into the shed.
Once in the shed there is a pressure tank, pressure switch, sediment filter, iron eater, and kinetico softener. All of these I'm imagining connected with PVC.
The ~115' run to the house is done in Endopure Poly tubing.
This transitions to steel to feed into the house above ground.

My questions (For all of these I'm looking for the best answer from a lasting / maintenance standpoint. I don't mind if its a little bit more expensive):

Do you think I should replace any of the materials being used in steps 1-2?
Are there any materials besides PVC that you'd recommend I use for step #4? Everyone around here seems to use PVC, but it seems like PEX might be easier to work with and might last longer. I do have this in a shed, so it should mostly be shielded from UV.
Is something like Endopure the right / best thing to use for step #5? Most people I know use SCH 40 PVC for this; but it seems like poly is supposed to be more durable / better.
Anything else you'd change / recommend from a materials setup?

Thanks for your feedback!


texts: How do I add a light fixture to an existing 3 way circuit when the existing one is powered directly?

texts:
I am trying to add another light fixture to an existing 3 way circuit. The power source feeds to the ceiling light fixture which is connected to the first three way switch using a 2 wire cable.

That cable in turn connects to the second 3 way switch. Here is a schematic, but without the additional fixtures wired from the light:3

Current wiring:

I tried to wire the second light off of the first 3 way switch thinking it had the power source, but when I turned on the breaker, both lights were dim. I am thinking that the second light is in series with the first light, which obviously is not what I want.

Is there a way to fix this without the running cable from the first light fixture to the second one. It is a royal pain to fish wire across the ceiling. My hunch is that it can't be done, but It doesn't hurt to ask.


texts: Carpet badly burned, do I need to replace the whole thing?

texts:
My carpet was badly burned by a heat lamp. Bad enough that the room started to fill with smoke. The burn is about 8 inches in diameter. The entire room is about 13'x 14'. Is it possible to just replace the burned portion or should I just replace all the carpet in the room?

Edit: The burn is in the top left of the room about 18" from the left and 8" from the top. Also, after cutting the burned carpet away we discovered that the it had also burned through the wood floor underneath.

Also while I have your attention: Smoke alarms have an expiration date. My smoke alarms were past their expiration date and DID NOT ALERT US. Check your smoke alarms and replace the ones that are expired.


texts: What are the major drawbacks of using an electric lawnmower?

texts:
I have had my gas lawnmower for about 3 years, which isnt very long. It is already spewing oil and white smoke. I know it is most likely the head gasket, but I really dont want to deal with it.

So I am considering getting a new lawnmower. While looking at them I noticed that there are a lot of electric lawnmowers out there. I like the idea because they seem to be lower-maintenance.

My yard is about half an acre, and very flat. The only thing I use it for is to cut grass and mulch leaves. I have read that they arent powerful enough to create a fine mulch, so you have to go over the same spots multiple times. I can live with that.

The other downside I have read about is that battery life can be an issue. People recommend having multiple batteries, but batteries are half the price of the lawnmower!

I was wondering if anyone had experience with battery-powered lawnmowers and how they felt about them. Gas-powered mowers are well documented, so if I have an issue I can almost always find a solution online. I dont think that is the case with electric, but I also dont think there are as many things that can break.

Any suggestions? Thanks.


texts:
So i'm planning to build my own house and i have hired an architect to design it. So today they shown me the sketch up model and the floor plan. 1 thing really bother me, where i have concern that the outside of glass will be out of reach for maintenance and cleaning.

i need input from you guys about my concern, What problems will I face with this all glass stairwell?  do you guys think i should ask them to change it? or do you guys have some ideas about modifying this into better and more easy maintenance glass/design?

your ideas are greatly appreciated.


texts: Can I run constant power and a three-way switch with three conductors?

texts:
Picture this>

I want to run power from a house to a garage.
I want power at the garage at all times
I want a three way switch with one switch in the
house and one in the garage to activate the outside light on the
garage.

Here is the problem.  I believe I made a big mistake.  I ran four wires.  (black, white, Red, GreenGround) through PVC.  Unless I am missing something I don't think there is any way to wire this the way I wanted without one more wire to run to the garage making a total of 5 wires.  Am I right?  or, is there a way?


texts: Is there a check valve in the bathtub valve that would prevent water from going reversed through the valve?

texts:
New single handled type shower tub faucet in a new house in Mexico. 250 gallon gravity fed tank on roof. Has boiler. Water comes out real slow. Appears when in cold position no water comes out, only hot water. I'm assuming it's clogged.

Took off tub water inlet
Connected small pump
Shut off water supply
Took off the cold water line from hot water heater inlet
Turned on pump

No water comes out of the unhooked heater hose. Does this valve have a check valve built into the valve, which is not allowing water to go backwards through the valve?


texts:
I just got a new GFCI outlet to replace a non-GFI one in my kitchen. It is a Leviton, product number is GFTR1-KW. For the life of me I don’t know why it’s not working. This same question has been asked before and an answer was never provided. Here is the link to that one-
New GFCI outlet; green light is on but no power
I connected the line and load wires properly, there is a solid green light on which according to the instructions indicates it is wired properly, but there is no power coming out of it or the outlets downstream. I reinstalled the old one to make sure the wires were ok and it works. I pushed the test and reset buttons a ton and nothing happens, the light just stays on. Is it just these dumb Leviton GFIs that have this problem? The wires are pretty cramped in the box, could the ground wires be too close to the other wires? I have no idea. Help!


texts: What kind of curtain rod should I buy for these brackets?

texts:
I'm trying to figure out what style of curtain rod to buy for these brackets on my doors. One end has a circular hole and the other end has a rectangular opening. They are 27" apart.

I live in California and my building has been around since the late 1920s.

What kind of curtain rod I should buy?


texts: How can I fix a leaking outdoor faucet with broken threads?

texts:
We bought a house recently. The backyard has a faucet that is leaking (at the connection between pipe and faucet). looks like the previous owner tried to fix it too and in the process did the following:

Bent/Mangled the water pipe (Looks like I have to tear the wall to fix this. So, wont fix this ever)
Broke the threads from the water pipe to the faucet (probably)
Broke the stucco off the wall (I wont fix this now)

I want to remove the faucet and put some plumbers tape. When I try to remove the faucet, it just goes round and round. It does not come out because the threads of the pipe are gone. Any suggestions? How can I fix the leak without removing the faucet?


texts: How to wire up a combined fan and light?

texts: I have red blue black white and copper(ground) coming out of my bathroom ceiling. I'm hooking up a fan light combo with 2 black 2 white and two green wires. I need to know which wires go to which?


texts: What's the recommended way to install the wall mounting spacer?

texts:
I'm building a besta cabinet. I'm following the instructions.

I'm on step 8 (page 13). It says to push the spacers (item number 141413) into the holes. I got them in a tiny bit, but no matter how hard I push, it won't go in any further. It's like the holes aren't big enough.

I called ikea, and the person at the store didn't have any suggestions except watching videos online, and all of the besta videos I've seen don't have anything about this spacer, it looks like this is a new model, because the other videos have different things on the back.

I could probably rig something like a thick sheet of metal or something to give me a place to hammer against, but that seems like the wrong thing. What else can I try?


texts: Cleaning a long dryer vent that is completely behind drywall

texts:
I have a very long dryer vent run that is about 18' or so, and is completely behind a wall.  Included below is a rough sketch of what I think the vent looks like, but I have no way to confirm that without removing a lot of dry wall and flooring.
I bought one of those dryer vent cleaning kits that has a brush on one end, and has a bunch of attachable rods that end up attaching to a drill.  Unfortunately if I come at it from inside the house (basement), I think it's getting caught up on the second 90 degree turn right before the 11' stretch.  I tried coming at it from the outside, and I think it's getting caught up again on the 90 degree turn right before the 11' stretch.
I took a rigid shop vac that converts into a blower and blew at the vent from inside the house, but that basically did nothing (in fact, the vent flaps on the outside vent cover didn't even move / open).
What do you guys recommend that I do?  Should I just leave it?  The dryer runs fine, I just wanted to clean the vent as that's a potential fire hazard.


texts:
After observing unusually high voltage drop while charging my car on 120V receptacle, I went to attics to trace down the wiring and came across the most likely culprit:

Those two splices did get warm after approximately 15 minutes of use at 12Amps. But they did not get too hot.

Wondering what is the proper way to fix this?

Since there are 5 wires spliced together (presumably without wire nuts), then are wire nuts fine or should I better get something like Wagos?
Most, if not all, wiring in our house is aluminium. There could be some copper wires too as I did not open these splices yet. So, should I pick AlumiConn over Wagos? Or it does not matter?
I came across one forum where someone recommended to use some kind of paste for aluminium splices, but he did not name exact product. What's the deal with it?
This electrical box was hiding below heat insulation. I suppose it should be better to keep box above insulation to help with heat dissipation, right? Or even screw it in the wood, right?


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I have a living room circuit in which the upper end of receptacles are turned on by a switch. I recently replaced all of the receptacles to color coordinate. I have a open ground on one of the receptacles whearas all other receptacles check fine with my tester. Only (1) receptacle is grounded. All others
do not have a ground wire. Can it be the receptacle? I live in Ohio