texts: How do I patch a large hole in plaster and lath?

texts:
I am having some plumbing repaired in my 1913 house that will result in a large access hole (2' x 16") on the first floor.  The wall is currently plaster and lath and I'm trying to get a handle on the best way to repair the damage after the plaster and lath are removed.  From what I've read so far, plaster of Paris hardens too fast, making it difficult to work with so I'm leaning towards DAP® Plaster Wall Patch (Dry Mix).  I know I need to provide some backing material either metal or wooden lath but I'm not sure what else is needed.  Do I need to use any fiberglass mesh to put over the lathe or can I just start with the plaster.  Does anyone have any experience with the Plaster Wall Patch?  Is there something better that would work?  When applying plaster it sounds like I need at least two layers, once base and another finishing. Should I build up a first layer, let it dry and then another layer level with the existing surface or is there a technique that would be better. Do you think I can paint over the Plaster Wall Patch or is something else needed to prepare the surface for painting?

I can't wait to get started, I just need a little help in putting a plan together.


texts: Securing two sections of 'floating' molding together and to wall

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There is no wall stud behind the ends of these two sections of molding. (Otherwise, of course, I would use nails.)
The surface behind them is painted gypsum wall board.
The molding on the right is reasonably secure; however, I suspect that if I rely on it to hold the left molding against the wall it will be pulled away from the wall.

More information:

I can replace the piece of molding on the right to eliminate the gap.
Both pieces are installed on the same section of flat wall.
The trim material is MDF.
I doubt I have the skill the remove the right piece of trim without breaking it. I haven't enough of this material left to replace it.
Most important: I'm referring to the fact that there's a gap between the wall and the molding on the left but not between the wall and the molding on the right.

Questions:

Is there an adhesive that would hold the left stick of molding to the painted surface behind it?
Is there some form of mechanical fastener that would work?

Thanks for your help, including better ideas.


texts: What equipment can I used to dig a foundation very close to another structure?

texts: I only have 7' between houses to get a backhoe/trench digger in to dig a house foundation. Any suggestions on a machine to use?


texts: What is the best kind of weatherstripping (door set) to use?

texts:
Looking at the various options for weather stripping to use around the perimeter of a door, there are many different options, ranging in price from $15 to almost $50 (the below are ordered from least to most expensive, at time of writing, from homedepot.ca).

Vinyl spring-action

Magnetic

Foam

Ribbed neoprene

Silicone

Certainly there are obvious things, like a magnetic set is only useful on a metal door, but are there other factors that will determine which one will work best (such as climate)?


texts: Where can I find legitimate wood shed designs?

texts:
Where is a good place to find good shed designs?

Googling around just gives me a bunch of poorly designed websites that scam people into their site by advertising free designs and charging for them. If they need to advertise like that, I can't assume their plans are that great.

I'm looking to build an 8x10 wood shed on a concrete slab.


texts: I have been doing work around a house I purchased. Never even thought pipe insulation would have or could have asbestos. My home was built in 1976 and is on Long Island NY (not sure if this helps.) I fixed a pipe leak and carelessly ripped off this insulation not even thinking. Just started gutting another room and found this. Could it contain asbestos being that it’s from a home built in 1976? I know to be sure it would need testing, but is there a high chance this is?Thank you in advance!


texts: Moving a wall to Increase a room size-- what extra support needed?

texts: I want to increase a room from 10' to 14'  currently there is a  'header' over the 10' span, with a 4 x 4 support; If I increase the span to 14' can I move the 4x4 support or do i need to keep it and add another?


texts:
i have Samsung washing machine from UAE, the cord is without plug, when i moved to the UK I bought the plug and found that it is fitted with a 13 amp fuse

My washing machine has the following label :
 220-240v
2000- 2400w

And i found the instructions in the manual is to plug the power cord into an AC 220 V/ 50 Hz/ 15A wall socket or higher

Will there be a problem connecting the cord to this 13 amp fused plug and then to the wall socket in the UK?


texts: How to identify this shower faucet or cartridge brand to stop tub spout leak and remove screw-less escutcheon plate?

texts:
I’m working on a bathroom and trying to fix a slow leak coming out of the tub spout.  Since it’s from the spout I’m assuming the leak is generating from the cartridge or the associated o-rings/seats & Springs.  I

Does anyone recognize the brand of crystal faucet handle in the picture?

It’s a simple handle that you twist to turn the water on/off - does not go up/down.  I was able to take off the handle (picture 2) and expose the top of the shower cartridge but for some reason was not able to pry off the escutcheon even after loosening the caulk. There are no screws on the plate and it seems like it was fastened onto something behind the wall and I didn’t want to force it. Could the escutcheon screwed/fastened in a different way for disassembly?


texts: How can I make my white LED strip light warmer?

texts:
I recently bought warm white LED strips and installed them. Even though they are considered "warm" white (3000K), the light is very white and not close to incandescent light and it hurts the eyes.

Is there any way to make the light warmer? maybe hacks like painting the strip LED's?


texts: How to remove junction box that is nailed on?

texts:
I just bought my first house and I am trying to update some light fixtures in my kitchen. I’m also fairly new to this DIY stuff, so keep that in mind if I’m not using the correct terminology.
When I tried installing the new fixture, I couldn’t get the mount screwed in properly because the junction box blocks the mounting screw from getting in deep. Noting that the junction box is old and damaged, I thought it would be best to just replace the junction box entirely, using an “old work” junction box.
So working the existing junction box, which seems to be made up of particle board, I was able to remove two screws that were bracketed (see the blue arrows) that I thought were holding the box up, but when I attempted to pull the junction box down it wouldn’t give. I then noticed that there are two nails holding the box up as well (see the red arrows), which I can only guess means they are nailed to a joist.
Is there a way to remove this junction box without having to get up in the attic?


texts: Seems obvious to me that there is no load bearing on this wall since the wall stops at this point, but would love a second opinion.


texts: Carpeting over a ceramic tile patio- backerboard?

texts:
We have a 20ft x 10' second floor patio outside the master bedroom. Structurally, it is sound.  The tile matches bedroom and rest of house- looks very nice.

However, we want to put a good outdoor carpet on the patio. While yes, the tile is same as in the house, based on past experience, a carpet traps that chalky dust that collects on a tile patio so you don't track it into the house.

Plus the carpet deadens sounds, etc.  We don't want to destroy the tile for resale and I know that glue/nailers will destroy the tile.

So.... would placing exterior grade plywood subfloor and/or backboard over the tile and screwing that into just a few spots around the perimeter work to minimize tile damage?

The patio gets lots of sun and we get very, very little rain on it due to a significant roof overhang all the way around.

Or, perhaps put a plastic barrier between tile and backerboard would work as well.  Then, glue down the carpet as normal?


texts: Toilet sits directly over sewer return -- what sort of venting?

texts: We are converting a 1st floor coat closet into a powder room. The closet sits directly over the sewer line running in the basement floor out to the street. Instead of tying into the existing soil stack which is about 15ft away across several joists, we are thinking of breaking the concrete in the basement and going straight into the sewer line. Waste from the toilet would flow directly vertically downwards via a 3-4" PVC and into the sewer line, a distance of about 7ft. My question is what sort of venting is needed for this? If none were required it would simplify the project considerably.


texts:
This is for a U.S. based house built in 1990.

I have an outlet receptacle running on 20 Amp 12 Gauge wire. I want to replace it with a GFCI outlet.

The problem is that 2 circuits are running through this outlet. You will notice in the diagram below, that all of the Whites (Neutral) are capped off with each other and connect to the outlet once, while two hots come off the outlet.

The wiring in the upper right corner is the source of power for the normal circuit.

If I take the Black and White from that circuit and hook those into the Line screws of the GFCI, the GFCI works and tests out perfectly, but the rest of the chain (Load) is not connected.

What needs to happen with the white wires to make this work?


texts: Tightening a threaded coupling near a soldered joint

texts: I tightened a threaded couple and then soldered a 3/4" connection. Despite using Teflon tape and applying about 20 lbs of torque, there is a very small leak. Should I melt the connection and tighten while hot or put in a new compression fitting so I can turn to tighten?


texts: Hardwire vs Plug-In stationary power tools?

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I have a large woodworking machine with a 5HP, 240VAC motor, requiring a 30A 240VAC branch circuit. The machine weighs about 1000 lbs and is stationary (not mounted on a mobile base). The machine will have a dedicated branch circuit regardless of the connection method.

Is this machine required to be attached with a plug-and-cord method, or hardwired in with flexible conduit?


texts:
I have been asked to fit bathroom laminate in our bathroom. I have laid bathroom laminate before, so that holds no fear for me.

Edging laminate is usually one of two options:

skirting boards are used to hide the edge of the floor
scotia trim or similar is run round the edge of the wall to hide the edge of the floor

The problem I have is that the shower tray of my bathroom is a 800mm quadrant, and so I will need to edge the floor round this curved edge. How can I do this?

Using scotia trim, I need to find some trim which is flexible enough (so far I haven't found anything) and the tray is fixed in place, and I don't want to have to re-do the plumbing of the waste (as I didn't do it, I don't know how it's all fitted together so taking it apart without damage is tricky).


texts: How to wire GFCI combination switch/receptacle

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I’ve looked all over and I can’t seem to find any diagrams for this specific application.

I have a combo switch/outlet GFCI receptacle that is midstream on the circuit and I want to wire it so that the switch controls the outlet that is part of the receptacle, and so that the downstream outlets receive power and are also GFCI protected.

I’ve only been able to find diagrams where the combo switch/outlet is at the end of the run, or where the combo receptacle has constant power to the outlet and the switch toggles a nearby overhead light.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Are Sonoff smart switches actually UL listed?

texts:
Sonoff is a system that comes up often on this stack.  However, I notice it seems to be of unusually low cost, not available in retail shops, sold widely in the "dodgy side of the internet" (eBay, Amazon Marketplace, Ali, etc.), and I only ever see the fairly meaningless CE mark on it.

The very first rule in NEC makes use of approved equipment mandatory. Virtually all authorities required for "approving" things delegate the job to UL and other reputable testing labs such as CSA, TUV etc.

Is Sonoff equipment actually listed by UL or other reputable testing lab?


texts: Is it normal for air to be leaking from where the drain hose connects to the central A/C unit?

texts:
I'm trying to determine if I have a leak around my central AC unit. Basically when the unit is on, I feel cool air blowing outside the "furnace plenum" as I believe its called.

If you look at this picture, I think the air is coming from where the drain hose connects to the unit.

So my questions are:

1) Is this normal for air to be blowing out here

2) If not, is there a way I can seal it better?


texts:
I have water coming up between the floor and foundation in my basement. In heavy rains it starts in the northwest corner. If the rain continues it will start in the northeast corner. If it's really bad I'll get it in the southwest corner and, eventually, the southeast corner. The last two are less likely to occur.

Now, all the sump pump installation companies want to come in and trench all the way around the foundation of my basement to install drain pipe to run into one pit. The question asked of me is, wouldn't a sump in one corner of the basement relieve the pressure enough to drain it all without having to run drains all the way around?


texts: Can you space trusses more than 24" on center if you use 4x4s or 6x6s for the lumber instead of 2x6s?

texts:
I'm designing a cabin that will have exposed trusses over the living room / kitchen area. I have a company that will design the trusses for me, but I am expected to provide some amount of indication as to how I want it to all come together.
I don't want standard 2x6 trusses partly because they don't have the final finished look I want, and partially because I don't want to have so many if it's not necessary, again mostly for visual purposes.
The span is 14' from wall to wall, and 31' total length of the room. I live at 8900' where the snow load is 120psf. There are no valleys in the roof at all, it's as simple as can be up there, short of a wood stove chimney pipe coming up through.
I understand that truss strength is more about the depth of the wood (i.e., the 6" vertical of the truss members vs. the 2" horizontal) than the width, but is it reasonable to think that trusses made from 4x4s, 4x6s or 6x6s could be spaced further apart than 24" oc?
This is surprisingly difficult to find on the web, or I'm just not searching for the right thing, so any info or links to more details would be highly appreciated.


texts:
I'm sleuthing out a mysterious short in a 3-way circuit and could use some advice.  I have an ordinary 15A breaker with a feed to our kitchen pendants, and some outlets in the room.  The lights are switched with a 3-way circuit that out of the blue has started to pop the breaker when it is turned on.  The circuit carries a load to both outlets and another light.  I have been able to determine that when the 3-way switch is turned on it creates a short buzz near one of the outlets and then the breaker trips.  I replaced the breaker, but that did not fix the issue.  I then isolated the problem down to the pendant lights feed and the 3-way circuit.  This appeared out of the blue today, and baffles me.

I pulled and examined both switches and they appear to be fine.  The only thing I felt needed to be done was to tighten down the terminal screws, as they were fully extended.  The wires are inserted into quick-wire slots.  I debated about replacing the switches, but that would be just another easter-egg hunt, and not at all certain they would be at fault.  Does anyone have a thought on what to check next?  I find it strange that the buzzing noise is not in the 3-way circuit - or at least I don't think so.


texts: Should I stain or paint my blotchy concrete?

texts:
The house I just moved into has a lot of white spots all over the concrete. I want to stain the whole slab to get it looking fresh and nice.  I had a couple contractors come out to help me resolve the issue.
One of them said a stain would work no problem, get it covered right up and looking nice.
The other said, no way that even after staining after a while its still going to continue to bleed through. Probably forever, because the concrete wasn't laid properly.  He said the best bet is an epoxy with a nice sealant. Even then there is no guarantee, but it has a better chance of working.
Who is correct?  Does anyone have any other advice on what I can do?


texts: Furnace sometimes fails to ignite, despite extensive replacement of parts

texts:
I posted a questions months ago, that it randomly decides to not start. Random as in work for a few hours, a few days, a few weeks....whenever it feels like not working, random. I went and replaced the control board, the inducer motor, the inducer control, the pressure switch, the igniter, the pilot assembly, the gas valve and the 24v transformer. I still have issues. I checked and cleaned the intake and exhaust vents, the air tubing, the collector box, the condensate drain, everything is clean or new. I hear the gas valve open and closing, the pilot open and close, even the pressure switch open and close. The system seems to operate as it shoud, but just sometimes it fails after 15 seconds to ignite, never get to ignition spark.

Whats next? 25yo Carrier 58dxa gas


texts:
I added an outlet to a bathroom. When I pulled the outlet, which was a 15A, that I was going to tie into it was wired with a #12. I checked the circuit and it is a 20 AMP circuit. It was part of a bathroom that was part of a GFCI. I thought maybe since the was a ground fault that it was okay to have the 15A outlet on a 20A.

I did a little more looking around comparing the circuit to the outlets. It appears that the 20A circuits are all wired with 15A outlets.

Is this a code violation or safety hazard?

Thanks,

Dave


texts: can I install new leviton outlet without ground wire?

texts:
I bought a leviton tamper resistant outlet(No. T5325) to replace the old one in my living room.

the old one has 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires, but has no ground wire. Can I just wire the new outlet the same way? If not, whats the correct way to do it?

behind the old outlet, its a metal box. Is this metal box used as ground?

new outlet.


texts:
I have an unfinished two-story detached garage and (if possible) I would like to make the structure more resilient by going a step beyond the basic/minimum building code safety standards for my area (presuming it makes good sense to do so). Is it possible to make structural improvements to the I-Joist being used between the first floor garage area and the second floor studio apartment area above?

Current installation is 14-inch TJI 210 16-inches apart (on center) with about a 20 foot span.  I need to run 4-inch sewer line through the I-Joists. The PDF document I reference below shows where those 4-5 inch holes can be cut into the I-Joist.  Will this weaken the I-Joists far into the future (20-30 years)? Can I (or should I) do something to strengthen the I-Joist in locations where the 4-inch sewer line will be passing through the I-Joists?

Patching the I-Joist appears to restore the integrity of the I-Joists, but can the same principles be used to strengthen the I-Joists as well?

TJI® JOIST SPECIFIER’S GUIDE
Featuring Trus Joist® TJI® Joists for Floor and Roof Applications http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/woodproducts/document-library/tj-4000

BTW, I am not trying to make the building resistant to a meteor crash with withstand a MOAB (Mother-Of-All-Bombs), but I do want to make smart improvements and retrofits beyond the basic building code safety requirements.


texts: 1/4" male compression end on inline water filter to 3/8" male compression (fine threads)

texts:
I have 2 faucets at my kitchen sink:  one for regular water stuff and the 2nd for drinking water.  Lines running from the drinking water faucet are 3/8" female compression.
My ecopure inline water filter has 1/4" male compression (un-removable), at both ends. I refuse to use any other inline water filter as I have tried several and only this 5 year ecopure removes all the odors/tastes.  ecopure changed the connections a few years ago.

I've figured out how to run from the kitchen sink cold water supply/shut-off valve (3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4" tee & 1/4" line), but cannot find a 1/4" female compression to 3/8" male compression adapter.  I can attach a 1/4" female compression line but will then need a 1/4" male compression to 3/8" male compression.  Any help is appreciated as I have been searching for a month now.


texts: Is it OK to have a light that can only be controlled via automation?

texts:
I am retrofitting the main light in a room to be controlled by a home automation system, in this case, I'm using z-wave, but for purposes of this question, it could be any digital protocol.

I would like to have all switches that control the light do so using z-wave, and the actual dimmer circuit won't have a physical switch (it will be buried in the light fixture).

In other words, I will have no switches in the wall that actually break the connection or dim the light.

Is this ok from a code perspective?  Does NEC have some kind of rule that I must have a switch in the room that physically controls the light?

If it's not ok, I'm looking for the particular part of the NEC that says that.


texts: Branching off multiple horizontal pipe/conduit runs?

texts:
I have to run electrical (EMT), network (schedule 40), and compressed air (Rapidair) lines along the walls of my shop. I'm doing this by putting up vertical sections of Unistrut, and attaching the the various conduits to those. You can see how I've begun:

The problem is that if I try to drop conduit down from that junction box, it will interfere with the air and network lines immediately beneath it. I can't just rearrange the stack because no matter what, drops from two of the three lines will interfere.

What's the typical solution to this? Is there some kind of offset mounting? I suppose a bracket that sticks out perpendicularly from the wall would work, but I figured this is a common scenario. What's usually done in commercial installations?


texts: Bemis toilet has a removable plastic container

texts: Toilet won’t fill. I can lift out the container. If I remove it will the toilet fill and flush correctly?


texts:
I would like to have two dryers in my laundry room. Can I run both off of the same circuit? Can the outlets be run in series? What upgrades do I need to make for this to work. I have room for another breaker in my box, which is in the same room. I am doing extensive work, including removing drywall, in the laundry room and now would be the time to make changes.

Thanks!


texts: Is this the kind of situation where aluminium wiring is potentially dangerous?

texts:
I recently moved into a rental that has aluminum wiring.  My understanding is that the wiring itself isn't dangerous, it's just the interface between aluminum and copper where you have problems because of the different behavior of the materials.
We did lose an entire "circuit" once and from what I gathered the issue was caused by a failure of a single outlet, likely due to the aluminum wiring.  I believe the fix was to add, in essence, a converter that safely goes from aluminum to copper so that you can install "normal" outlets.  The electrician suggested doing this throughout the house, but of course the home owner declined.
I since had a switch in a bathroom break (it physically broke - nothing related to an electrical problem).  I opened it up to see if I could replace it and found this:

AKA this is aluminum wiring going into what looks like an otherwise "standard" light switch.  It appears to have some goopy stuff on it for reasons that I don't understand.
The property manager will probably just send out an electrician.  Normally I'd do it myself because it will take an electrician a week to get out here (I've replaced outlets with copper wiring before), but with the unknowns introduced by the aluminum wiring I'm thinking of just leaving it to the professionals.
Is this safe and code compliant?  Is it probably unsafe but grandfathered in (until it needs replacement)?  Is there an easy way to make this safe while replacing the switch?


texts: all power to one room not working outlets read hot

texts: We've lost all power in one room. We Replaced all the outlets in the room and the breaker for the room. all breakers and outlets read hot but no electrical is working in the affected room.


texts: How can I fairly distribute water pressure and flow throughout my home?

texts:
All new home plumbing.  Well fed, so we have our own booster pump and we control the water inlet pressure.

My goal is to split the house into four "zones" that I can turn off, independently with a valve.

So far, so good.

But a secondary goal is to have each zone affect the other zones as little as possible and so my plan ... is to run the inlet pressure very high - 80 psi, in fact - into the manifold.  Then, each zone that stems off the manifold has a pressure regulator bringing it down to 50 PSI.

The system and pump design assume an absolute max flow demand of 15 GPM. I expect that will be sufficient for our needs.

So, assuming we stay below the 15 GPM pump output, do I gain anything at all, no matter how marginal by running the inlet at 80 PSI and limiting the zones to 50 PSI ?

Thank you.


texts: How much weight can I hang on my cabinet doors?

texts:
I want to mount shelves on the inside of the doors of my Ikea kitchen cabenets, to make better use of the space - as it is, the cabinets are too deep to see everything on the very deep shelves. However, I'm worried about damaging the hinges if I hang too much weight on the door.

This is the sort of thing I want to install:

The cabinet is tall, 70-ish inches, and the door is attached with three hinges that look like this:

This YouTube video shows a similar product being installed on cabinet doors with hinges that look a lot like mine, which gives me hope.


texts: How do I remove the water/temperature control faucet if there are no visible screws?

texts:
My Delta branded shower faucet doesn't have any screws besides for two that hold the panel independently to the wall.

The handles have no apparent way to be removed.

Can anyone suggest a method that may be used to remove the handle?

I repeat, there is definitely no hole, screw or anything of that sort anywhere on the controls.


texts: Why won't my hose bib handle turn either way?

texts: The handle on my outdoor hose bib won't turn at all.  The faucet is currently partially on and the handle will not turn either way.  How can I fix it so it will work properly?


texts: How do I make a dog-leg corners in aluminium framing for fly-screens?

texts:
I have 20-odd rectangular aluminium (aluminum) windows that need fly-screens.

Sounds easy enough to make my own, but along the bottom edge of each window is a window-winder (280 mm wide and 30mm high) that I need to work around. (This is the real problem I have - if you have another approach to solve this, I am all ears.)

I figured rather than a rectangular fly-screen, I would make a rectangular fly-screen, with a rectangular section cut out of the bottom edge. Slightly more complicated - it requires eight corner inserts, and a bit more care on which edge is the "inside" with the spline. I went and bought enough supplies for one window to make a prototype - including aluminium framing and EIGHT aluminium corner inserts, rather than the four required on most fly-screens.

I soon hit a problem. The rectangle along the bottom edge requires me to turn a corner, and then 30mm later, turn back again, to make a "dog-leg". But 30mm is less than the length of one corner insert, let alone the two I need to insert into the short vertical length of framing.

Here's an example of one of the windows:

In the bottom left, I have put an off-cut of the aluminium framing, with a corner insert pointing up, so you can see the problem.

Note: While the front of the winding mechanisms bulges up, it slopes back to being square at the back, so there is room for a straight piece. The mechanism is flush with the window when it is closed, so there is no room to go behind the whole mechanism.

If I can't use full-sized corner inserts, how do I secure the framing along the bottom side?


texts: Do I need a vapor barrier for seasonal cottages

texts: We have seasonal cottages in Parry Sound. We were wondering if there is a by-law stating that we are required to insulate and vapor barrier all exterior walls?


texts:
I hooked up a Honeywell WiFi thermostat last fall.  There is no C wire in the furnace & the Honeywell rep suggested I wire up a small separate transformer with new wires going to the C and RC terminals (no jumper between R and RC) on the new thermostat.  Heat worked fine all winter & I just switched the thermostat over to cool, but the AC will not come on.  "Cool on" is flashing on the thermostat but there is no fan or compressor action.

The furnace is a 1986 Trane model BLU162E960B1.  Natural gas - forced air.  AC is much newer.  The transformer is wired up for 24 volts.

The existing wiring includes a G, W, Y, and R. The C and RC wires go to the small (doorbell-type) transformer. There is no C wire marked on the furnace wires or on the schematic.

What am I missing?  No help from Honeywell.


texts: I purchased several hundred dollars worth of Legrand Radiant electrical outlets and switches in Graphite color for my home. All went well until I ran into a 4-way circuit (One light, two 3-way switches, and one 4-way switch). Problem is that Legrand doesn’t make a Graphite 4-way switch in their Radiant product line. Aside from installing a mis-matched color 4-way switch, are there any wiring alternatives to get around this problem? One option I considered and that I could easily agree to, is to eliminate the last 3-way switch and just install a color matched (but non-functioning) switch as we never use that switch for the light anyway. Is that possible? Are there any other working alternatives, possibly a dimmer in place of the 4-way?


texts: What kind of connector is this, or where can I get it?

texts: Does anyone know what kind of connector this is? I have to change the power supply cord on a mini fridge and need the same 2 prong connector that plugs into the circuit board. Its the size of my thumb nail maybe half and inch wide.


texts: Is Firewall required in North Florida 2005 single story home?

texts:
Is Firewall required?
 Home inspector; Inspecting a single story 2005 home in Northern Florida.  Garage panel attic access. I noticed the lack of firewall separating the garage from living space.
Note: Garage not insulated and attic cooler than outside temperature.
Thermal imaging read several degrees cooler than outside. "Attic felt cool"

Is Firewall required? and how would AC be leaking into attic?


texts: Distance between Sprinkler head and Air condition system

texts:
I'm planning to add Sprinkler system in office area which have a central air condition system.
Does code specify how close air condition can be to the sprinklers head?
What does minimum distance between sprinkler head and Air condition system should be?


texts:
UPDATE: New album with additional photos here: http://imgur.com/a/RGfrP

My parent's house has a pretty bad leak that has been going for a few years.  Because of money and other issues with the house I need to try do an improvement myself if at all possible.  Getting a new roof (or house, since everything else is outdated/has an issue) may be possible down the line but not right now.

One thing slightly in my favor is this is in San Diego so it rains infrequently.

I have included some pictures.  In the last you can see where I pulled some of the ceiling down where it was mostly soft/mushy.  Asbestos test was negative.

Estimators have suggested the issue is definitely with the valley and one of them recommended I could install flashing in/along/under (not sure what he meant) the valley to improve the situation.  I purchased a roll of aluminum flashing.  I am not clear on exactly where to put it though.

The examples I see on youtube when I search 'roof valley' don't have such a low slope or the part where it goes up/horizontally again like that.  The ones I saw were mostly just one smooth seem.  If it was like that then I have some tutorials on doing underlayment, flashing, trimming shingles for a normal valley.  But I haven't seen an example quite like my roof.

Thanks so much for any advice.


texts: Tandem/twin circuit breakers installed where not allowed?

texts:
I decided to read the panel's diagram today and IF I understand it correctly, you can only use tandem/twin breakers in designated slots.  Referring to the diagram, it looks to me like circuits 11-17 on left can use them, but 1-7 can't.  However, if you look at the picture of the box's breakers, you'll see there are twins where they shouldn't be, like circuits 1 & 3.

Am I reading this correctly?  If not, could someone please set me straight?  If I am reading this correctly, then how "bad" is it?  Even though I plan to get an electrician's recommendation on replacing the panel (because it appears they no longer make those breakers), I want to know.  Perhaps it affects the load balance on the neutral vs hots?  (It seems odd to me they didn't key them so you couldn't use one where it wasn't allowed).

I'm adding a hi-res pics of the panel & some of the spare breaker.
Thanks,

Jim


texts: How to prevent shower water from leaking from the side of glass shower door

texts: Shower water often leaks from the side gap of my glass shower door (see attached). I already replaced the old undersweep with new one that seals it better from the bottom, but it seems shower splash still comes out of the hinge gap on the side, which can seep under the flooring and show up as a water spot on the ceiling downstairs in the living room. I would highly appreciate effective ways to block the shower splash from exiting the shower room. It’s really poor shower room design IMO, as I never had such problem in my previous residences, but I don’t have the energy to replace it completely. Thanks!


texts: Tips for repairing a large, shallow drywall scratch?

texts: Lummox that I am, I went and put this dent into the wall. It's only a millimeter or three deep, but covers several square centimenters, and also reveals the underlying metal angle at the corner. Any tips for products/techniques to repair this?


texts: Which pH should I aim for when neutralizing restored/refinished antique surfaces?

texts:
I have recently used different chemicals to restore, refinish and treat various types of wall and millwork surfaces.  E.g. I have stripped old paint using Peel Away 1 from plaster and antique millwork, which I believe is basic and needs to be neutralized with acid (vinegar or similar).  I also cleaned mortar and dust residues from exposed brick using hydrochloric acid, which I neutralized with a baking soda solution (basic).  In yet another example, I plastered some brick walls with a homemade plaster mix (hydraulic lime + sand), which also is basic.

After completing all of these surface treatments, should I always aim to achieve a pH of 7 by neutralizing with a solution of the opposite pH?  Or are there other factors to be taken into consideration?


texts: Where to Caulk Around Windows on Exterior of Home? Is this a Drip Edge?

texts:
It's winter time again and our windows are really drafty so I am going to start replacing some of the old cracking caulk around the windows on the exterior of the home. In the process of examining my windows, I noticed that there is what looks to be a drip edge above the window but underneath the lintel. See attached images for reference.
My questions are:

Is this actually a drip edge (it is plastic and not metal)?
If so, is the drip edge normally installed under the lintel instead of on top of it? I haven't seen that done before.
If it is a drip edge, should it have been sealed with caulk between it and the lintel as shown in the picture?
If it is not a drip edge, can I caulk it to prevent drafts that may be caused by it?


texts: Is there a way to adjust the bathtub handle tension?

texts:
Is there a way to adjust the tension on a stem for a posti-temp valve?  I've taken off the handle and trim, and I don't see any way to adjust the tension.

I have a single turn handle on my bath tub.  It is a posi-temp valve.  The handle is difficult to turn, and I have broken a couple of the plastic handles already.  I'm considering buying a metal handle.  However, the plastic handles should have lasted longer, and it makes me believe the stem on the valve is too difficult to turn.


texts:
I want to install a backup drain for a bathroom where there might be overflow onto the floor. The problem is how to seal that drain against sewer gas. The usual P-trap cannot be used because the drain will ordinarily never be used. It is just there in case of an unusual overflow condition, like someone flooding a sink for example.
How can I seal the drain from sewer gas?


texts: I need to repair 2 long cuts in the vinyl flooring in my kitchen. The 2 cuts are near each other and probably take up about 8 inches in length. Everything I've read has talked about patching but I'm not sure I could (or should) cut a square of this length for repair. We don't have any original flooring left from the previous owners. We plan on changing out the flooring but that won't be for at least 2 years. Would repairing the cuts as if they were small cuts work or do I need to cut a big patch to fix?


texts: How can I make a lightweight structure (sukkah) stronger and more windproof?

texts:
I have almost no DIY experience (unless you count computers). I bought this https://www.sukkahdepot.com/product/classic-sukkah-6x8-with-schach/. You can get a better sense of its construction from https://www.sukkahdepot.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/EZ_instruction.pdf, but basically, it has a simple metal frame made from interlocking pieces, and canvas walls.
I assembled it last week. Last night it was somewhat windy and in the middle of the night I found it a bit down the block, on its side and flat as a pancake. The metal rods were still interlocked, so the metal "rings" on the vertical rods that the "pegs" on the horizontal insert into (sorry I don't know the correct terminology) were damaged. They will replace the damaged parts but my question is for the future. So:
What are the best options to "anchor" it in place"? There are some railings on the house I could tie it to, or I could possibly get sandbags or bricks and somehow tie it to them, or perhaps I need to drive tent pegs into the ground. I need some guidance here. If I tie it to the railings can the sukkah act as a sail and pull hard enough on the railing to damage it? If I use sandbags or bricks how much weight do I need? If I use tent pegs what size etc.? Any other ideas?
How can I reinforce the shape, so it doesn't get flattened again? I'm not sure if I'm describing what happened well enough. Basically this rectangular cube was on its side, and then the width X length rectangle is "sheared" (in the shape transform sense), like if you applied pressure to one of the top corners at a downward angle, bringing it to the ground.
Thanks!


texts: Can stainless steel or galvinized screws be used indoors on non-pressure treated wood?

texts: I assume yes and there is no harm or downside, besides these screws being more expensive than non-coated screws.


texts: How to plug in a Philips Low Pressure Sodium Bulb using a Ballast

texts:
I bought these 3 things on Amazon:
•   Leviton 8806 Bayonet Base, Keyless, HID, Glazed Porcelain Lampholder
•   Fulham WH2-120-C Workhorse Adaptable Ballast
•   Philips 327817 35-watt T15 SOX35 Low Pressure Sodium HID Light Bulb

I don’t know a ton about electricity or LPS bulbs but I need to safely plug this in to a regular 110V wall outlet. I’m not sure what the job of the ballast is, but I’m guessing I have to wire it into a power cable that will then plug into the wall. Am I right?

And do the 2 white cables from the Lampholder connect to the Black & White cable on the ballast?

Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!


texts: Can I reduce draft in an elevated floor with house wrap below the insulation?

texts:
My 1930 house has a large room ~(25x30) that was added on in the early 1980's without a basement nor slab.  It is on top of thick concrete piers, pinned to ledge rock.  On very cold days < 15f or very windy cold days, the floors are quite cold.  Under the floors are some fiberglass insulation then plywood that seems to have some air gaps, allowing animals and wind to infiltrate the insulation.
I recently had a home energy audit, and one of the recommendations was to rip out the existing fiberglass insulation and have 3 inches of spray foam underneath instead.  I agree that this would work, but the cost is $3500.
Would applying house wrap under the existing plywood/fiberglass (gaps and all) be enough to stop the air infiltration and possibly allow me to get away with not having to spray foam?  Would there be any other reasons NOT to do this?


texts: Can I connect laundry tub drain directly into floor drain?

texts: I would like to install a laundry room tub directly over the floor drain. Can I simply have the tub drain directly into the top of the floor drain?


texts: Why are ungrounded GFCIs required to be labeled?

texts:
I discovered in my new house that someone had incorrectly connected grounded outlets (without any ground connected) to the knob and tube wiring.  I have read that the outlets can be made safe by adding a GFCI upstream.

However, electrical code requires that any ungrounded GFCI be labeled "No Equipment Ground."  Why is this?  What consequences as a homeowner do I need to be aware of to the lack of ground connection?  Are there certain devices I shouldn't use on this circuit?


texts: How can I stop high water pressure from causing leaks at the connection to my washer?

texts:
First of all, I've tried searching the questions for this but I haven't found anything that matches, but if this is a duplicate, my apologies in advance.

I've just moved into an apartment, and in contrast to the abysmal water pressure in my previous house (seriously, the upstairs shower takes about 4-5 hours to fill a bucket), this place has pressure that is too HIGH. This is normally not a cause for complaint, but my washing machine is having an issue.

Specifically, the connection between the machine's inlet valve and the main pipe in the wall. I'm trying to turn the tap to the optimum level, but it's either too low (the machine takes forever to fill) or too high (the pipe bursts open). I've replaced the pipe clip on both connections, and even reinforced it with a second pipe clip. The pipe holds together, but there are leaks springing around the clip.

I'm not a DIY expert, so what I really want to ask is if there is a solution to this, like a clip or pipe specifically to withstand high pressures. I'll be hitting the DIY stores again tomorrow and also asking my plumber about it, but I thought I'd post the question here as well, to pick your collective brains :)


texts: What is this Verizon device on my Kitchen's wall?

texts: When I disconnect its power, I lose Fios internet. Is it possible to move it to a hidden place? Thanks


texts: Can a light with a built in motion sensor, be used with dimmer switch?

texts:
My front lights are bright and have built in motion sensors.  I would like the capability to dim these lights.  So my question is, can I use a dimmer switch on these lights (with built in motion sensors) without adversely affecting the motion sensor function.

Here's an example of the light switch I was thinking of using: Lutron Diva 1.25-Amp White Preset Dimmer


texts: How to keep the house cool from inside by covering the window panes?

texts:
I am thinking of covering the window panes with 5 fold newspapers.

What other inexpensive items/materials can be used to cover the window panes for keeping the house cool from inside?


texts: How do I move my sheave pulley vertical with the bottom door bracket?

texts:
I just recently purchased a house and the garage doors need some work (Replace wheels with silicon for less noise, etc..). While I'm at it I also want to change the stationary sheave pully so that the wire connecting the door to the pully is no longer in front of the door and I can move the sensors to be on the track itself instead of attached to the floor with 2x4s.

Do I need a new track piece, track flag bracket, or both in order to fix this? If I need a new track piece, can I find it at my local hardware store?


texts: Circuit breaker + panel selection -- make and breaker series?

texts: Is there a compelling reason to choose one type/brand of breaker & panel (Eaton CH, Eaton BR, Square-D QO, Square-D HOM, Siemens, GE) over another when putting a new electrical panel and breakers in?  Or is availability (I am loading my panel with dual-function CAFCI/GFCI breakers on all 15 and 20A branch circuits, provided no shared neutrals turn up that is) the sole consideration I should take into account when deciding on one brand of breakers over another?


texts: Is there any alternative to sill replacement?

texts:
If my house needs sill (plates) replaced, is there any alternative to full replacement? Could I just cut 2x8s and use structural screws to hold it to the old sill to make sure the floors are secure?

My house is post and beam, so the studs do almost nothing.


texts: John Deer Lawnmower won't start, just buzzes

texts:
We've got an oldish riding lawnmower we bought along with our new house from previous owners.  It started up and worked a couple of times but now won't start.  It just buzzes. None of the videos I can find online reproduce this sound so not sure what might be wrong.

Here's a video of it not starting https://youtu.be/-KvItIj6Hlo


texts: We live in a condo.  Our kitchen sink will gurgle a lot.  From time to time, there will be bubbles and even an overflow of bubbles and some sediment coming up from the kitchen drain.  Someone has suggested that the problem is from the previous owner who relocated the kitchen sink and did not include the proper drop from the sink to the drain in the wall.  Because there is a negative slope to the pipe, water cannot drain out of the pipe, the water gurgles and backs up.  He has suggested that I need to re-do the drain system and have the water travel downhill at a sharper angle.  I do not have a lot of money and would like to find another solution if it exists.


texts: Why are only half of my receptacles working after an electrical arc in one of them?

texts:
I live in an apartment above an older building that I help care for. I was unplugging my phone charger (I may have pulled it out too fast) and there was a huge arc and flame color and it smoked. This took out power to about half of the receptacles in my kitchen and living room.

I wasn't sure if I blew a fuse or something like that so I went down to both of the fuse boxes in the building and replaced and checked the fuses that deal with my apartment.

I'm sure it was a bigger deal than that, I just have no idea what it is.

Any suggestions?


texts: Is it normal for a freestanding pergola to wobble a little bit?

texts:
We built our first pergola (20'x 18' x 10' tall). We used cedar with 6 - 6x6 posts with 30-inch concrete footings attached with 1/2" J bolts to OWT/OZCO post bases. We have double 2x8 beams that span ~10ft with 2x6 rafters that span ~18ft and are connected with Simpson Hurricane Ties. Post to beam connections were made with 8-inch OWT timer bolts. I also put ~2ft braces up everywhere that I could. There were some issues with the patio not being level so I used some wood and stainless steel shims to ensure that the posts make good contact with the post bases and reduce any extra play.

On paper, I felt like everything seemed okay, and in a static situation or with light force the structure seems to be stable. The issue I noticed is that if I give it a hard push or if I try to rock it back and forth in the direction parallel with the rafters, the structure still wobbles a bit. It is pretty solid when you try to move it in the direction of the beams (this is the direction with 3 posts instead of 2) so I am not really worried about that.

We really like how it turned out but wanted to get other opinions on whether or not this would be considered safe. I don't want anyone to get hurt for the sake of my pride if we were to leave it alone.

Are there any suggestions on how to make it more sturdy? Would larger braces on the side with only 2 posts help? I also saw Simpson has some knee brace stabilizers and was thinking maybe those would work better than just the timber screws I used for the braces?

Edit: Adding photos of diagonal brace connections

Video of wobbling when forcefully shaking one of the posts: https://drive.google.com/open?id=15B0GaEV4My2gBfh_8d0WrulkR2FXMe2_


texts: What is the purpose of the twin single pole breaker?

texts:
I just moved into a rental property and was doing some electrical work such as replacing ceiling fans and outlets (reimbursed of course).  When working with the breaker box, I encountered breakers I have not worked with before and frankly seem dangerous.  As in, you can have to flip both half switches before the breaker is off.  That and there seem to arbitrarily be white plastic clips place thru out to help turn both off at the same time.  Honestly, most just seem to be missing with age.

I have yet to remove one from the panel, but so far I cannot find them online to see what they are.  I'm under the impression the house was built in 92', but already I've been finding what I believe to be electrical violations, even for 92', every time I pull off a wall plate or fixture.

What are these breakers and should they be replace?

Also, a well pump is positioned between two breakers.  This really feels like someone was cutting corners too. That and whom ever label the panel put GFI #1 and GFI #2, which went to the bathrooms that had nothing close to GFI (Just cheap 50¢ outlets).  Needless to say those have been changed out.


texts: I purchased a light kit that requires 3 light bulbs and says 100 Watt max.  Does this mean that the wattage of the 3 bulbs can only add up to 100 watts or does that mean that each lightbulb can be no more than 100 watts.  For example, can I use 3 60 watt bulbs?


texts: DWV: Dirty arm with a tight bend on the end

texts:
This is a mock-up of a vanity drain rough-in on a 2-foot "dirty"/trap arm.

Ideally the screw fitting that accepts the trap will sit as close to the wall as possible.

Is there any reason for this to be 2"?
Can the 90° 1/4 Turn Ell be standard instead of long/sweep? EDIT: I realize that in general, a long sweep is required for horizontal-to-horizontal ells, but I'm hoping there's an exception when the ell is the penultimate fitting on the arm.


texts: Where did the water under my basement floor come from?

texts:
I have just bought a house that had a continuous engineered oak flooring downstairs. There was an obvious buckle in the floor in the hall, at the centre of the house that we were told by surveyor/builder was due to poor fitting as expansion gaps had not been left between rooms.

This made sense as the position of the buckle was the juncture of flooring that spanned the entire length and width of the house (see attached plan).

Yesterday, our flooring fitter removed the engineered flooring in the hall to discover that the buckle was caused by what appears to be oak parquet flooring that was water damaged. In fact, there was a puddle of water on top of the parquet flooring where the buckle was.

We removed all the parquet flooring, and although one plank in the region of the buckle was slightly damp, with some sort of green moss growing on it, the rest of the planks were quite dry, with signs of having been previously water damaged. The concrete underneath the parquet flooring was bone dry, and the batons it attached to showed no signs of significant rot.

Currently our best guess is that condensation has caused this problem, however no one can explain what caused it. Currently, we are thinking our best course of action would be to fit ply in the void left by the parquet flooring to bring up the floor level, so the engineered floor can be re-layed. If, however, we did this, wouldn't we have the same condensation problem? assuming that was the cause.

This has got all our professionals stumped, so I was looking for some guidance please.

Thanks


texts:
I have an kitchen extractor hood that vents air through a 5-inch flexible ducting to a louvred cover in the outside wall.
I'd like to add a similar piece of ducting to vent the tumble dryer outside, plus I'd like to add another length to add an extractor fan to vent the bathroom
The layout of the flat makes it quite easy to bring all three lengths of ducting to the inside of the property next to the existing hole.
Normally I'd just cut a couple of extra holes in the wall and have one duct per hole. However, my lease-hold agreement prevents me making any change to the exterior of the building. Also, the wall is quite high so cutting some new holes would require the expense of scaffolding and/or a cherry picker.
So, is it possible to merge three sets of 5 inch ducting, without the danger of one duct back-venting to another (for example, the bathroom venting back through the kitchen extractor hood).
I know I can get back-draft shutters for a single length but what I really need is a junction box with three entrances and one exit, is this allowed?


texts: Replacing older Leviton dimmer with new Lutron different wiring

texts:
I'm trying to replace some older (late-1980s?) Leviton incandescent-only dimmers with new Lutron LED-compatible ones. There are three of them in a 4-gang box (the 4th switch seen in the pics is on a different circuit that controls a stairway light and was already replaced). Each dimmer switch controls a pair of recessed ceiling lights. The two switches on the outside (left and right--see pics) are single-pole and each control one pair of lights. The center is a 3-way that controls another pair of lights that are also controlled by a toggle switch on an opposite wall (also already replaced). The older Leviton single-poles have only two black wires while the 3-way has two black and one red wire (all hardwired--no screw mounts). I'm using new Lutron Skylark C-L 3-ways (with 1 black wire, 1 red, 1 red/white, 1 green) for all three (I can just cap the unneeded red/white wire provided for traveler on the new Lutrons per instructions in the packaging).
I've drawn a diagram to show the present wiring config. I'm guessing that the hot is coming from the black in Romex-2, which goes back to the lights (load) via black into Romex-1/3/4 (or, in the case of Switch 2 [Sw2], possibly via the Romex red in Romex-3?). All whites from Romex are gathered to one wire nut. For Sw-1/3 I'm thinking I can cap the unneeded red/white on the Lutrons and use either the black or red interchangeably to replace the older two-black config on the Levitons. I'm puzzled about how to wire Sw2 since it's a 3-way. Also, the bare grounds from the Romex are all pigtailed and screwed into the box. The old switches don't have ground wires, but the new switches do include a green ground. Do those have to be connected too, or can they be ignored (or gathered together and capped?) since, I assume, the circuit is presently already grounded.
I'm pretty much a noob with all of this and have tried to describe it as accurately as possible using what I hope is proper lingo from what I've garnered through research trying to understand all of this. Any and all help would be much appreciated. Many thanks in advance.


texts: Sparking from multiple receptacles on circuit

texts: Last night, I noticed audible pops and sparking inside two receptacles on the same circuit. This circuit also powers a bathroom vent fan. Could a bad outlet or hardwired device on a circuit cause sparking in other receptacles on that circuit, or should I be looking elsewhere for the problem?


texts: Wall switch connections for a ceiling fan and light

texts:
I added a light fixture to a ceiling fan.  The ceiling fan was hooked up as instructed, but the single switch only operated the fan and not the light.  I opened the light switch box and found two black wires going to a switch and a lone red cap.  The black wires were coming from different wire bundles.  There is a second switch that turns off and on a outlets in the same room.  I placed the red wire on the top switch screw, and only the light worked.  I switched the lower black wire with the other black wire (the one initially connected to the upper screw), and neither fan nor light work.  What do I do to operate the light and fan with the single switch?

White coded wires in a bundle inside switch box as shown. This config only powered the fan and not the light. The other switch has a white wire up top and a red down low.


texts: Can I use two wire nuts instead of one to connect 6 wires inside a 3-gang box?

texts:
Is it considered acceptable practice to use two wirenuts in a situation where it is possible to use only one but may be easier to use two?

I have a three-gang box with six cables coming into it.  The person who wired it previously (homeowner, I assume) pigtailed 5 of the 6 black hot wires using a red wire nut.  Because he or she still needed to bring a hot to one of the switches, he put two hot wires on a single terminal of one switch (one went to the red wire nut, the other to the switch that didn't connect directly to the pigtail).

I assume this person did this because the wire nut wasn't big enough for all six wires.  However, my understanding is that two wires on the same terminal is not a good idea.  The best solution, clearly, is get a wire nut that holds all six.  As an alternative, I thought of having two pigtails - two wire nuts, each of which would receive three of the six hot wires as well as a wire directly between the two wire nuts (total of four wires into each nut).  I realize it makes sense to minimize the number of connections, but I am just curious to know if this is acceptable.

I am new to home wiring, but I hope you understand what I am asking and will let me know what you think of it.


texts:
I know the most sure way to figure this out is to have an engineer look at this but am hoping to get some insight here from someone knowledgeable in this area.
We live in a condo and have a truss roof system. Our unit is 2 stories and is on 1  half of the main roof trusses (the largest ones). There are other little peaks with their own baby trusses around our house over small exterior pop outs and our shower is under one of those small pop outs.
We want to remove the wall that is in the center of this little pop out on the second floor and I’m wondering if there is any chance it is holding any load?
It is running perpendicular to the trusses above it but both trusses also run from each exterior wall and the span is fairly small (8/9 ft) from each exterior side.
This little area only has 3 trusses that it is composed of; the outer most exterior truss, one in the middle and then one on the inner side which is then attached to a larger truss which also becomes an outermost exterior truss further along in the house.  (Guessing that is what those metal straps are where those 2 trusses meet up).
In the photos:
1st: close up photo is looking into the mini truss area. It seems the brace is being held up by the exterior wall and not the blue one i want to remove?
2nd: from the outside and the red line is signifying where the wall is we want to remove on the second floor
3rd: : from the inside. The blue is outlining what I want to remove.
4th: The blue arrows are the walls I want to remove. The red boxes are where the exterior parts of the pop out are in the house.
Would there be any chance this little wall could be holding up any of this structure?!
Not looking to be told how bad of an idea this is or how unsafe. I am very aware of the ramifications of taking out a bearing wall. Just looking for advice.

THANK YOU!
.imgur.com/Qoc1d.jpg


texts: How deep should drain pipe be buried under an asphalt driveway?

texts:
I have a 4" PVC drain from a downspout that runs parallel to the garage for about 25' before joining another drain.   This run is about 12" deep and with a very slight grade.   While the driveway is being repaved, I am replacing the thinwall PVC with schedule 40 (the pipe was clogged because the inlet was slightly below grade and had filled with mud and gravel over the years).

Is the 12" (approx) depth adequate?   What should the pitch be (there is room to lower the downstream end as much as 12" if needed)?


texts: Porch lamp outside house not working, and changing bulb trips the RCD

texts:
I'm so bad at DIY that I can't even change a light bulb properly.

The porch lamp outside my house isn't work. I tried changing the bulb, but it tripped the RCD. I double checked the fixture (ES, max 60W) and the original bulb (edison screw, 40W), and bought a new bulb (edison screw, 42W). Again, it tripped the RCD.

Given that it's an outside lamp and two bulbs (including a brand new one today) have broken, is it likely to be the fixture? Or is it likely to be a problem with the bulb (is it possible I need a special kind of bulb)?


texts: How does an "inverter" air conditioner differ from a non-"inverter" air conditioner? What is the advantage of an inverter air conditioner over a standard one?


texts:
I have this gate wood door that was painted. Apparently, they didn't use primer.
The paint started pealing, so I thought I will strip the paint easily and stain the door (that way I don't need to ever deal with paint again).

So I got this paint scraper
and started going at it.
but realized quickly, that it is indeed relatively easy and works well for flat, large surface.... but a huge problem when it comes to the lattice area, where there are plenty of corners (where one lattice crosses over the other).

HELP! anyone can recommend a better tool or method? for example, I saw some brushes, are they effective? and if so, which ones (I see 2 different metal color and stiffness).


texts: Can someone identify this fan switch (PHOTO)

texts: This fan switch has become unresponsive.  Looking to figure out whether it needs a battery or is self-powered.  Would be great to get a make/model ID, manual or simply an answer on how to address.  Thanks.


texts: How can I use a second transformer to power my zone controller?

texts:
My system uses an EWC Controls model NCM 300 zone controller, that is currently powered using the transformer in the air handler unit.  I'm installing two new smart thermostats, and the power requirement is too great for a single transformer. I'd like to install a dedicated transformer to power the zone controller and dampers, but I'm not sure how to connect it to the current controller.

Here's how the current zone control board is wired.


texts: is this video representative of good technique for working with gas pipe

texts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEdaICxZnug
Curious if you can 'horse' on the pipe that much and its ok.  More specifically, when he is tightening the pipe back together, he is moving the existing section alot.   Is that ok to not break the seals on the other side of that pipe ?
Also is that an appropriate amount of dope? Seems to be too much.
Thanks.


texts: I don't know too much about replacing outlets, only what I've read online or through YouTube videos. The house was built in the early 50s. Some outlets have been replaced (brand new kitchen)  but some are still the old 2 prong. I bought a receptacle tester and tested the newer style outlets, which all tested as correct wiring. Upon opening and inspecting, none of these new 3 prong outlets had no ground wires. Does this mean the boxes are already somehow grounded? I'm even more confused now that the receptacle tester said that they were correct. Please help!


texts: Was my water softener hooked up correctly?

texts:
This is my third water softener post - I only intended to have one but I just started getting more questions as I was typing them up.

See

What is the white crystals in my water softener? and how to clean properly

Any idea what parts were replaced on my water softener?

I had a local plumber install my water softener in exchange for some computer work instead of having a professional. This was 2-3 years ago. I finally got it running a few days ago.

1) Does it look like it's hooked up correctly? Anything special I need to know about my setup?

2) Am I ok to replace the sheetrock around the huge hole he cut?

3) The manual that my water softener came with says "This manual provides a reference for operation and maintenance of the following WaterMax  water conditioning appliance models: 63MAQ, 63BEQ, 63MDQ, 62AMQ, 62APQ, 62AKQ, and 62AJQ. If you do not see your specific model listed here, your dealer has customized your WaterMax to solve additional water conditioning problems you may and and will be happy to explain an additional special features."

Mine is a Hague WaterMax 63BAQ, which is not listed and means that is has 'an additional special feature' according to the manual. Any idea what this means?

4) Are there any tools one can use to manually test the water? I read in the manual to leave it to the professionals, but I think it would be fun to learn about and have always wanted to test the water in my house, and after looking at all the settings on the digital display ( a lot of them referencing water testing) I am interesting in trying it myself.

5) Lastly, are there any tips, or general knowledge / tips you would like to share about my water softener / any water softeners in general?


texts: When do splitting deck supports become a problem?

texts:
Preface - this house is located in China, where permits and contractor certifications are not a thing, and there is basically no legal remedy for compensation over shoddy work.

Last year we had this deck put in by a local team. The large posts (4) are 155~165mm square, and 3160 to 3310mm tall (the driveway has a minor slope). The smaller posts (2) are 80~85mm square.

This year large cracks have developed in most of the posts. The cracks are mostly 15 to 20mm in depth, but some run as deep as 50mm. They occur on multiple sides of the posts and tend to run more than half of the height of each post.

We are unable to locate the original contractor. We brought in another local last week and he said:

they're fine, don't worry about it
I could stick some glue in the cracks if it would make you feel better
I guess I could put bolts through the posts if you're still not happy

I know nothing about carpentry, but I do understand frost-wedging. Our climate here features 3 to 4 months each winter continuously below 0 Celsius, so when I see those cracks I get very nervous with winter on the way.

Assuming these cracks ARE a problem, my initial reaction was that short of replacing them outright, some sort of steel banding would be a reasonable solution. I'm not keen on adding MORE holes unless the bolts are affixed to large external pressure plates but he wasn't going to do that.

Is this a problem? If not, will it become one soon?

Full album with additional photos: https://imgur.com/a/JEfrx


texts: Once a person has bought a house (not new build) what are things to be done to maintain the house?

texts:
When we buy a car, we have to check its oil and coolant level and periodically change its filters. Different parts of the car need to be changed as the car ages since some parts have longer lifespan than others e.g alternator belt and brake pads e.t.c. This applies to new cars but more so to old cars.

Now coming to house. A new build house may not need any one to work on it. However, most people will be buying old houses e.g me in UK and old houses can be 50 to 100 years old or maybe even more.

What are things that a person must look out for in a house to keep in well maintained like a car? Assuming the house is a "standard construction" house in south of UK? I am assuming that like a car, there would be a standard list of things here too.


texts: Why do LED lights with a dimmer stay dim and won't go bright again?

texts:
I have a chandelier with five lamps. I brought an LED compatible dimmer and changed out the switch for the dimmer.
I brought five dimable LED bulbs.
The bulbs and dimmer worked for a little while, but then the bulbs stayed dim when the dimmer was bright up to full brightness.
It's like the bulb now remembers only the dimmed setting.
If I take the bulb and put it in a circuit without a dimmer it still does not go bright?
I have tried a selection of dimable LEDs from three different manufacturers and they all went dim and stayed dim.
What is going on here?
How can I get the lights to go bright again?


texts: I am attempting to build a waterfall out of a gutter system. I currently have an awning that is 72" by 48" with 3" high (tentatively) buffers on each side to keep the water from flowing off. The awning is tilted 95 degrees downward from the side of a building. Connected to the awning I have a gutter with the cross-sectional dimensions below and a length of approximately 72" plus or minus 5". I plan on drilling holes in the bottom of the gutter along a linear path so that a waterfall will be created, but I am not sure the amount of surface area I need to create with the holes in order to balance the amount of water/rate that is flowing in and keep the gutter from overflowing. Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Scratched finishing on IKEA furniture: how to fix

texts:
During assembly, we managed to damage some outer finish and expose the wood underneath:

Is this fixable (say by putting some white "coating" on it)? If so, could you please point me to a solution? I struggled to Google for a solution on my own because I lacked the appropriate vocabulary. Thank you.

p.s. If this post doesn't meet the community's standards, please let me know how to improve it.


texts: how to wire outlet in the box that lacks neutral?

texts: how to install outlet in the box that lacks neutral? my box has two black wires (hot and return/load) and bare copper for ground. it was designed for switch that controls light or fan (I guess builder didn't think neutral would be necessary in future). is my only option to run neutral from somewhere else? or can I use existing wires?


texts: I have a sunroom with ceramic floor tile over a concrete slab.  I have two steps down which are not to code. One is 9 inches deep and the second is 10 inches deep to the floor.  I would need to raise the existing floor by three inches and one step by one inch to give me the 8 inch drop.  Do I need to remove the tile and then build up the existing floor with a self leveling concrete to have a smooth surface?  I was not intending to put new tile down but would like a concrete stain.


texts: What type of security sensors should be used in a three bedroom house?

texts: I have just purchased a house and am hoping to install SimpliSafe throughout. I have 3 bedrooms: mine, my children's,  and my office. Would window sensors be best in all these rooms, and then motion detectors in the kitchen and living room? Are motion sensors a good idea if you expect not to be moving about at night? I was think door and window sensors instead on my 9 openings. Is this overkill? I was also thinking one window break sensor.


texts:
I need to install a Honeywell 10x10 damper into a 11x11 duct.

Options that I came up with:

build an adapter to reduce duct to 10x10 (alternatively I can use 12x12 damper and build adapter to enlarge duct to 12x12). (Honeywell dampers come in even sizes only).
Fill the gap with some sort of a frame made out of (circle one): metal, foam, wood.


texts:
I bought a lamp kit to rewire an antique lamp that was not working. Basically replaced everything except the base, neck and lampshade. This is my first time doing any kind of electrical work.
The wires came with metal end caps. I had to shorten the cord, which cut those ends off. Then stripped the casing off to expose enough wire to attach to the socket screws.
My question is, how should I finish these wires before attaching?  This doesn't seem to be discussed in any of the diy articles I've found, except one which mentions that you can solder the end yourself or just twist them tightly. I don't have the means to solder, but is it really safe to just twist the ends and then wrap them around the screws in the socket? Do I need to buy and attach some kind of cap?
Thanks.


texts: How can I improve traction on an outdoor plywood ramp?

texts:
I've got a shed in a very shady area.  There's a plywood ramp from the ground (grass/dirt) to the shed door.

When it rains, the ramp gets slippery.  It stays slippery for a long time afterward, as it doesn't dry very quickly due to the shade (from trees).  I'm also concerned that the wood is starting to degrade from the moisture, although the shed itself seems fine.

What can I do to improve the traction on the ramp, and maybe to also protect it a little better from the moisture?


texts:
I'll be moving into a new house soon.

The house has underfloor heating (wet system) throughout and have been told i can't put down wooden flooring.

  wood is an insulator, it will cause condensation to build.
  And this will lead to black mold forming along the skirting boards at edge of rooms.

Is this true for modern warm houses? How can this be prevented?


texts: How do you keep vertical siding on a house from leaking?

texts:
I've been thinking about building a little house lately, and I've got most everything worked out on how I'd like to do it. I haven't actually started building yet, but I am aiming for installing vertical siding made from charred wood, like this (but just for the siding)

When I was working through my head on how it would be installed, however, I wasn't sure how to keep it from leaking. I don't want to rip a board in half and put it on the seams (batten siding), I'd like to just have straight boards without the one covering the gap.

My current thought is to nail plywood to your wall studs, and then put up a moisture barrier (tar paper, or some other type of vapor barrier) and then nail the siding to the studs as tightly together as possible.

Could someone explain the correct method to do this, or will this way work?


texts:
What is the best way to connect two AWG 1 wire together especially when it is the main feeder before the main panel?

You can't just wire it manually or even use wire nuts.

Are there special lugs where you can wire them together with plastic housing (not the ground lugs where it is all exposed steel and so dangerous as it would be put in panel).

Something that is breaker like that pass through AWG 1 and has capacity of at least 125A?


texts:
I need to build a 42x16 box for an electric fireplace in the middle of a
supporting wall. How can I put a 2x6 header as the top of the box


texts: Mounting a bike repair stand to a workbench

texts:
I am trying to mount this bike repair stand to a workbench. I am not very handy, but I love to learn and hope to get handier starting now....

It came with no instructions. Guy at Home Depot suggested that I use #12 7/8" round head woodscrews with #12 1/4" washers. (Sitting in white tray in my pictures.). He also told me to use 1/8" drill bit to drill pilot hole and to fill the hole with gorilla glue before I screwed in the screws.

So I drilled my pilot holes (all the way through the table).  Dropped some glue in, stuck bike stand on, then washers, then screws. Then used drill with Phillips head to drill in screws. Screws would never really go down all the way. Once they made contact with the washer, they would just keep spinning but never tighten up. I tried one without the washer, and I got the same result. I tried putting the top of the stand on and then loading up my bike, but the mounting plate immediately came up, bringing screws out with it.

I'm sure I screwed up about every step.  Can you tell me where I went wrong?

Is the table I'm using even thick enough for me to mount this thing? The workbench came with my house and is constructed with 2x4s


texts: LED bulbs flash once, turn off. Unscrew one and screw back in they all turn on?

texts: Had a ceiling fan with cheap LED bulbs, they would flicker a lot and had an electrician tell me cheap bulbs can do that. So bought some GE and now when I turn it on they flash once. I’ll unscrew one and screw it back in and they all come on. They are 60 watt equivalent and candelabra bases.


texts:
I am installing a ceiling light fixture. I was expecting to see black, white, and green wires. Can someone please help identify what each wire is for?

Since a couple of people have asked to see a picture of both the included instructions as well as the light fixture itself, here they are.


texts:
I'm new to building or destroying things in that occasion.

I have a wall that is not supporting the roof or any other part of the house.

Removing that wall will help me build an extension of a room in my house.

I want to use a mace sledgehammer to destroy that wall.

Are there a better solution less consuming in time and effort than use a mace sledgehammer, please?

Second question is :  Are there other factors should I check when trying to remove a wall in my house than checking the wall is supporting part of the roof?

Any of your advices would be welcome.

Cheers.


texts:
I was hoping to get some advice on the proper setup for this system. I live in Long Island, NY and just moved into a large house with an extremely old oil burner and 3 a/c condensers. I'm about to start an oil to gas conversion ... when I was introduced to this brand new Bosch inverter ducted heat pump, which is amazingly efficient.

https://www.bosch-climate.us/products-bosch-thermotechnology/geothermal-heat-pumps/geothermal-residential-product-offering/air-to-air-heat-pumps/inverter-ducted-split-system.html

I thought to myself ... since I'm putting up solar panels anyway, maybe this would be the best way to go about it. But winters might be cold, so I was thinking of using a tankless Navien combi to run a hydronic coil in the air handler to supplement. But it's hard to find people talking about heat pump + hydronic coils, as it's not very common ... although I'm not sure why not since so many people are putting up solar panels nowadays.

But I was wondering if anyone could provide their thoughts on this setup and what I should be careful of. Yes, I know that natural gas is really cheap right now, but 2 5-ton heat pumps should be able to replace the heating and cooling ... I think.

Or am I completely wrong and should just install a conventional gas boiler to heat my large home? And leave my a/c system as is since it's still working.


texts: What screws should I have used for drywall? (And can I fix this situation?)

texts:
I'm installing an IKEA Bjurstra wall-mounted table.

The primary load-bearer is the vertical column, and I've successfully fastened this to a wood stud using 2x #12x2 pan head drill screws:

But the same screws applied to the braces that keep the table flush to the wall, ended up only stripping the dry wall:

So now, though the vertical column is holding up the table just fine, the screws on the braces are loose and hanging out.

What kind of screws should I have used?
Aside from starting over and installing the table at a different height, what can I do to amend this situation?

I am not a DIY-savvy person, so I would prefer ease or convenience over cost-savings. Thank you.


texts: Do I need to remove all the old paint prior to repainting!

texts:
I am restoring a window sill, scraping paint and using epoxy sealer & woodsculpt to fill so areas eaten by rot.

Right now I'm scraping. My question is how hard should I work to remove all the old paint? Is it ok to leave it if it's tough enough to not easily scrape away?


texts: Building portable shop, light bulbs burning out

texts: So I am building a coffee shop that is on a trailer, it runs off of a 220v plug that I connect to my house or other locations. When I connect it to my outlet my light bulbs inside are blowing out. I have a breaker box in the trailer, and I need the 220 volts to run the espresso. What could be causing the light bulbs to be blowing out. I’m using fluorescent bulbs. Thanks in advance


texts: I tried to hang pictures on the wall using Command™ no mess picture hangers. I cleaned the walls as the instruction requested, then applied the Command™picture hanger and let it set. When I hung the picture, they fell off the wall. How can you hang pictures on an oil base painted walls?


texts: How should I organize a workspace to take my handedness into account?

texts:
I'm in the process of building myself a workbench and shed space and with only a very limited amount of space, some things have to be very carefully positioned.

Having grown up with a left-handed father, I'm used to things like a soldering station being on the left instead of the right (and why). But I'm right-handed, so I've made space for things like that on the right on my new bench.

However, I believe there are a number of things that don't matter. Is a vise one of them? What other items are there whose position is related to the handedness of the user?


texts:
We have (at least) one squirrel abiding under the roof of the garage, and we'd like to get rid of it (them) before it gets really cold.

I installed a sound-generating "anti-pest" device in there two days ago -- and someone saw one critter getting out, but it was not clear, if he was taking his stuff with him, or was planning to return. Besides, the sound makes it uncomfortable to be there even for humans -- and cannot be a permanent solution.

How does one get rid of squirrels -- without killing them (I have a weakness for fellow mammals)?


texts: How can I minimize or eliminate noise and vibration coming into my home?

texts:
I live next to a sewer lift station. The lift station generates noise through out my home. It seems to be worse late night to early morning and when it's colder out. From time to time I also feel slight vibrations.

I cannot take the noise. It can be so loud at times it hurts my ears.

How can I pinpoint how the noise and vibrations get into my house?

Are there any suggested steps to reduce the noise or to try to eliminate it?


texts: Will a 4" non-reinforced concrete slab support my swimming pool?

texts: I am purchasing a 7' x 10' portable above-ground exercise pool which holds 2200 gallons of water.  I plan to set it on my concrete patio which is quite wide and is 4" thick, with no rebar in it.  Will the 4" concrete slab support 2200 gallons of water?  My pool will be delivered soon so I need to know as soon as possible.


texts: Need a hinge that pushes outwards as the door opens

texts:
I'm fitting doors to a wardrobe frame I've built. The wardrobe frame is MDF with a 2x1 frame, fitted into a corner of a (wonky) room in our (old) house.

When the wardrobe door is closed I want it to fit flush to the frame, lined up with no overlap either way. However the hinges I have only give maybe a centimetre of 'push out', so the door would have to be smaller than the frame.

What sort of hinge do I need to source that will push the door outwards as it opens, by at least 4.5cm (which is the width of the 2x1 framing timber)? Been googling but it hasn't availed me of much.

Alternatively if anyone has any alternative suggestions, please fire away. I've thought of cutting a slot out of the 2x1 framing, to allow the hinge to attach closer to the edge of the door panel and thus get closer to what I want, but I'd prefer to avoid it looking untidy inside.

Also considering an externally mounted hinge that attaches to the outside edge of the side frame and the front of the door, maybe a wrought iron one to look nice.

PFA a top-down sketch to illustrate my ideal outcome. Door, when open, could frankly end up anywhere, it's the flush-when-closed result that matters most.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Suitable surface to cover old harvest table for use as desk

texts:
I use an old harvest table as a desk. Most of the time it doesn't matter that its surface consists of four fairly rough planks because I use a keyboard and a trackball. I seldom use a pen. Still it would be nice to improve the appearance of this thing.

It would be nice if it had a resilient surface softer than high-carbon steel and harder than balsa wood.

Is there something that I can buy as a sheet that glues to wood? I do occasionally scribble notes on paper with a ballpoint. Is there some material that stands up to that?


texts: Replacing A Trane thermostat with A Honeywell Wifi thermostat?

texts:
Heres what I have.
On A Trane brand thermostat

Red wire = R
Black wire = W2
White wire = W1
yellow wire = Y
Green wire = G
Orange wire = O
Blue wire = B or from what i'm told is my C wire??

And i'm trying to hookup new honeywell wifi thermostat. Which has these options.Can anyone help A brother out? Can get the heat to work but the cool mode  just blows heat also???


texts: How do I get rust stains off my driveway?

texts:
I used fertilizer with iron and, unfortunately, didn't sweep adequately afterwards. Afterwards I ran my sprinklers and now my driveway and sidewalk are peppered with unsightly rust stains.

What are the best ways to get it off? (By "best" I mean easiest and most efficient, while still being safe, inexpensive, and not too harmful to the nearby lawn.)

Any suggestions?


texts: Can I install an outlet near the ceiling of a pavilion?

texts: I'm in the process of building a pavilion.  I'm doing the work myself.  We are hanging a TV from the ceiling.  I was planning on installing an outlet near the ceiling so I can plug in the TV.  However, I've seen conflicting height requirements.  I've seen some say that the maximum height from grade is 6'6" for an outlet.  Then I've seen other say that is only for switches, not outlets. Thanks for any help.


texts: Why is my gas furnace now continually just blowing out cold air?

texts: I had my heat set to 70°F all day and my gas furnace was blowing out warm air. Then out of nowhere, it started blowing out cold air for the past 3 hours. I tried turning off the furnace and turning it back on but it still blows out cold air.


texts: What do I do if drywall screws won't penetrate the studs?

texts:
We have begun a bathroom remodel project.  All the studs were exposed by removing plaster, wood lath and old plastic tile.  We began attempting to install  the ceiling drywall first.  We were able to drive 1-5/8" drywall screws partially in,  just enough to get it up there, but we were totally unable to drive the heads down just below the surface.  (The drywall is 5/8" thick).

I tried removing them and re-inserting, with no success.  I suspect the studs are really hard old-growth wood, believing this house to be 100 years old.  Our next attempt was predrilling, which may have worked but the required drill bit was not long enough to penetrate the wood completely.  We were able to "sink" the screws, except for approximately 1/16", that protrudes above the drywall.  I really don't want to use shorter screws or nails. The drill used was 3/32".

How can I drive the screws to the proper depth?


texts: How can I fix a sink drain stop which won't hold water?

texts:
I have a bathroom sink & fixture which are about a year old.  The drain has worked fine, until about a month ago.  Recently, any water I try to hold in the sink slowly leaks out.  This is mildly frustrating to our cat who likes to drink from the sink, but terribly irritating to me.

(I'm sure there are names for parts, but I have no idea what they are.  Sorry about the following...)

Thinking the problem might be limited travel in the stopper lever (when you pull up the lever thing, at the top of it's travel something hits under the sink) I got under the sink and adjusted the set screw and associated pieces so it was all shorter.  Now when I pull the drain up, it is no longer klunking against something (apparently that was the set screw hitting the porcelain) so as near as I can figure the only thing stopping the drain from moving is definately the stopper fitting into the drain.  Yet water still slowly drains from the sink.

What else can I adjust?  There seemed to be a lot of horizontal/rotational play in all the drain control parts under the sink; could that be the problem?


texts: Protecting a PVC downspout under a driveway?

texts:
I need to run a 3" PVC downspout to the street. The issue is that the only place I have to run it is down my gravel driveway. At the house, the downspout is at least 12in below the surface of the ground. From what I understand, if using schedule 40 pipe that would be deep enough to protect it.

The issue is that the driveway slopes down and by the time the pipe would reach the concrete sidewalk it would be only 3 to 4 inches underground. Even with schedule 40 pipe, I believe that would get crushed by a car.

With a schedule 40 pipe 3 to 4 inches underground how should it be protected against being crushed by a car?


texts: Hello I am new to electric work. I got these Halo Ultra thin downlight direct ceiling mounts and I need help installing them

texts: The problem is the hole in the ceiling is 7 inch and it doesn't quite fit. Is there anything I can buy to help make it fit the hole in the ceiling or what can I do to make it fit in the hole.


texts:
I am looking to install an 18’ by 18’ shade sail.  2 corners I am planning on putting in 6 x 6 posts cemented into the ground.  I’m having trouble with the other 2 corners that need to be safely attached to my house. I am unable to get to the rafters or fascia to tie them in.

It will be about 8’ off the ground and the post ends will be near our fence so there won’t be a ton of wind from the west side.

Would it be ok to attach to the studs of the outer wall, Or the header above the window?


texts: I have one key left for an old Mortise lock, where can I find blanks?

texts: I have one key left for 2 Mortise locks in my house.  I would like to find blanks to have spares cut.  Where is the best place to find or order blanks for such locks.  It is not a skeleton key.  It looks like a standard c key but about 1/8" longer possibly a 8 or 9 pin cylinder.


texts: How do I handle a transition from concrete to dirt underneath a flagstone patio?

texts:
I had a pool installed a few years ago and the builder threw in a narrow concrete patio around it. See fuzzy picture below (sorry about that. Google earth must be a little tipsy tonight).

So now that I've paid off the pool, I'm thinking of putting down a flagstone patio, but the trick is that I want to extend it beyond the paltry concrete patio that already exists (dotted square around pool).

I assume it will be a pretty easy job to lay down the stone on top of a nice level concrete patio, but I am a little concerned about how to make the transition between the concrete part and the grass part.

(1) Is this even advisable, or should I just extend the concrete out to the entire area I want for the patio before laying stone (adding considerable cost)?

(2) Assuming I don't extend the concrete, what should I do when the stone transitions from the concrete subsurface to the dirt? I'm nervous that cracks will occur over time, and I'd like to do whatever I can to avoid that.


texts: What is the best way to remove popcorn from the ceiling?

texts:
What is the best solution for removing popcorn from the ceiling if I want to get it to look smooth afterwards?

Edit: thanks for your answers!  Would you estimate that replacing the drywall on the ceiling would be less work/mess and result in a better finish?


texts: Is there a smoke alarm which can be hushed in DENSE smoke?

texts:
Every smoke alarm I've ever owned has a "hush" feature allowing you to push a button and stop a false alarm, for instance one caused by cooking. However, they all state a caveat in the owner's manual to the effect that dense smoke will override the hush feature, and continue sounding the alarm. Well, maybe I'm just an especially bad cook, but I don't think I have ever once in my life seen this hush feature actually work. I suppose I'm just always dealing with smoke that is dense enough to override the hush button. The only real solution is to take the smoke detector down and remove its batteries, which obviously is not safe, and I usually forget to put them back up in a timely manner.
So is there a smoke detector on the market which has a hush button that cannot be overridden by dense smoke, and just stops the alarm.


texts: We are considering a new construction where the builder has used cpvc pipes for hot and cold water. Are there any health concerns? Internet search is mostly negative. Anyone has any thoughts or experience?


texts: Remove plywood floor before insulating attic?

texts:
My 1940 house's upstairs ceiling is composed of:

1/2" of plaster
1/2" of solid paper backing
2x6" joists spaced 16" apart (2" rolled batt and 4" open-faced batt insulation)
1/2 inch plywood
Open attic space (A-shape) which I can easily stand in (I wanted to use this as storage but previous owners neglected a broken basement window and mice got in. I may or may not have got them all but I'm not sure. I do not wish to use this as storage.)

The floor does not actually run parallel to the ridge of my roof; it is perpendicular but I didn't know how to illustrate that.

My region is Upstate, NY. I think R60 is recommended.

I have a bunch of leftover blow-in cellulose insulation from insulating my walls and was wondering if I could just freely blow it into my attic? Is the R value of plywood beneficial/harmful? Could the plywood alone cause some sort of moisture trap?

I know you can get ceiling sag if you blow in directly into exposed joists so it seems beneficial to just blow in on top of the plywood because I could do R80 if I wanted to.

I know I need to install rafter baffles so that I can insulate out to all edges of my attic. Should I foil-tape or caulk/silicone all the plywood seams?

I welcome all suggestions and especially appreciate references to good tutorial videos!

Side-note: I plan to do a complete tear down of the upstairs and remodel every room in the next 5-10 years.


texts: What is the correct way to secure a gas standalone range?

texts: Can somebody tell me the best way to secure a gas standalone range. If there is an earthquake, I would prefer that the range not slide around. It's on engineered flooring over 1-1/8" plywood.


texts:
I have a light switch on my bedroom closet that exhibits erratic behavior: about half the time when the switch is flipped from off to on, the light remains off. Flipping the switch back off and on eventually gets the light to turn on.

switch:        off  -> on -> off -> on -> off -> on
light:         .off..................on...off.....on

How can I diagnose what's going on here?


texts: Is it possible to tell if the current floor is solid or engineered hardwood?

texts:
I am looking to replace the existing floor because I was told by the inspector that it is engineered and can't be sanded. But while I had the contractor came, he said it is solid which we can sand instead of replacing.

How do I tell if it is solid hardwood or something else?


texts: How can I add a second light to my bathroom circuit?

texts:
I am new to the forum and this is my first major project.

I am looking for some help for adding a vanity light above my sink, and wiring it to the existing switch that controls the ceiling light so that both the vanity and ceiling light turn on at the same time.

I know that i need to run some cable and mount the vanity light.

My question is about how to wire the vanity light to the existing outlet/switch receptacle.

thanks


texts: How to properly fix these cracks in exterior window sill

texts:
The inspector suggested that these are easy fixes but most of the searches for repairing window sills brings up rotten wood and that's not what I've got here.

and also this one


texts: Why does my GFCI trip when I plug things into load side receptacles?

texts:
I installed a new outdoor circuit. The line comes out of the house and into the LINE side of the GFCI outlet. I connected a wire to the LOAD side and ran it to two standard outlets downstream. My tester says the circuit is wired properly at all the outlets; the tester button appropriately trips the GFCI when used.

Here's the problem: devices plugged directly into the GFCI outlet work fine. However, when I plug the same devices (I tested a light, a fan, and a grounded shop vac) into the downstream outlets, they trip the GFCI.

I'm stumped. Help?


texts: How should I connect this old fluorescent lamp?

texts:
How do I connect a fluorescent lamp with capacitors (or capacitor+starter?) and a ballast?

I made a diagram to make it clearer. lamppu = lamp and katto=ceiling.

I need to know where to connect these three cables that are loose from the capacitors and ballast.


texts: How to repair anchor holes and re-mount bathroom tissue dispenser

texts: I need to repair the holes where tissue bracket was installed, then re-mount it. About 3 inches behind the drywall are bricks. I thought about re-mounting it with 1 inch toggle bolts after repairing the holes with drywall tape.


texts: Is there a typical layout to blocking installed for backing in new construction framing?

texts:
I'm having a home constructed, and my rough inspection walk-through is in a couple of weeks. In order to make hanging shelves, towel bars, etc. easier, I would like blocking installed horizontally between studs.

Is there a typical layout to blocking (certain height above sub-floor, particular locations)?


texts: One meter (200A service) feeding two main electric panels 100A ea, is it legal?

texts:
In preparation for a grid tied PV solar installation, we noticed that we have two breaker panels 100A ea fed by one meter. See picture.
In the past the house was two units two meters, but it was rehab to a single unit and the two 100A panels were not upgraded to one 200A but connected to one meter.
The meter box was locked by the utility company, I assume this passed inspection, but, Is it legal?
I fear that the inspection of the solar installation may not pass this time.
This is the closes answer I've found: two load centers on one meter
thanks for your time

Edit:
I am attaching a picture of the meter socket box.