texts: Running 12V Wire Behind Walls for a LED Stair Light?

texts:
I'm interested in lighting a stairwell in my house using a red LED strip.

I have a nearby AC outlet and plan on using a typical 12V power supply from the AC outlet. I know that class 2 wire is typically used for 12V DC applications for running behind walls, but romex wire (Typically behind walls) is usually terminated at an outlet.

If I chose to run my class 2 wire behind the wall, does it have to be hardwired to the LEDs? Is there an outlet that is typically used for low voltage applications such as this?

What is the typical procedure for running wire to LED strips behind walls?

NOTE: This question is somewhat similar to (How can I mount an 12V transformer for LED lighting inside a wall?), but differs slightly in what I'm asking. I've read it, and it my transformer is in a remote serviceable area. My question is more about how exactly the class 2 cable is wired to the LEDs.


texts: Do I need a downrod or special bracket for a ceiling fan mount on a slanted ceiling?

texts:
Other than aesthetics, is there any reason not to mount a ceiling fan tight against a gently sloped ceiling? (i.e. my fan does not have a ball+socket joint).

Would this significantly impact air circulation, make it wobble, stress the mount, etc.?


texts:
I'm quite scared every time I have to use NEMA plugs (I live in Japan).

Coming from europe, the bottom of the two connectors is insulated

This ensure that even if you touch them while plugging/unplugging, it will always be safe to touch.

Meanwhile with NEMA ones, there is no such insulation and I often see my appliance partially disconnected (but power still flowing) because of either the weight of the AC/DC or the cable has been pulled accidentally.

Am I right to be worried about accidentally touching the connectors, and what to do about it ?


texts: We ran our forced air heat pump today.  15 min. in we noticed it just stopped running.  Looking in the breaker panel I could see that the breaker for the heating unit had tripped.  When I tried to reset it, with a very loud bang it tripped the main breaker to the whole panel.  I reset the main breaker, and tried to reset the breaker to the heating unit and it tripped the main breaker again.  I shut the heat pump off and tried a third time, only to trip the main breaker for the whole house again.  What gives?  Panel problem or heat pump problem?


texts: Are there any restrictions on using crimped connections to electrical devices (receptacles, switches)?

texts:
As the title states, are there any code restrictions in general on using crimped spade and ring terminal connectors when wiring household electrical circuits?

I've actually been doing this for a while, using 600V rated spade connectors from Home Depot, and Wago's Wall-Nuts, and I've inspected some of my work that has been installed for over a year and saw nothing worrisome but I thought it might be good to ensure I'm not totally violating code here.

An example of something done recently:

EDIT: I predict a lot of "you don't need to do that" or "that's overkill" replies: Yes, that's totally obvious, but I like to over-engineer things.


texts:
Little outside my wheel house here. I took up a toilet in a new (to me) property to re-seat it with a new wax ring, and found two flanges underneath, with a lot of corrosion looks like

The white flange actually came off with the toilet. There were the typical 2 bolts holding the toilet to the floor, but I didn't see anything else - looks like the bolts were bolting the toilet to the white flange. This is a lower level of a split level home, so on concrete slab.

What do I do here? It doesn't seem like using a new wax ring and attaching it to the white flange would be sufficient - do I need to find some other bolts?


texts: Is grounding the subpanel not required some times

texts:
Is the sub panel properly grounded, only Load and Neutral wiring were located at the sub panel as shown below.  This Sub panel is at a single floor Condo, built 1970, Updated with Newer Electrical Appliances, all functional 3 prong receptacles.  Subject Condo in a multi Condo-building, maybe 30 Condos.
As a realtor in Southern California' s area, I see some inspectors' reports that reflect NO grounding bar at the sub panel, similar to the attached photos.  Similar conditions are found in condos type building, typically with several Condos, maybe 20-50 Condos at the building, typically built in the early 70' s and thru mid 80' s.
So I am trying to determine the following; Were this kind of wiring and / or sub panel installation commonly done back in the days, some 30-40 years ago, is it considered properly grounded done today?  Thank you!


texts: My hot water stopped working in one bathroom, what can I try in order to fix it?

texts: I have an electric water heater from 2004.  The hot water works in all other areas of my house (kitchen, other bathroom and washing machine).  The sinks and shower in my master bathroom are not producing hot water, only cold water.


texts:
We live in Northern Illinois. Five or six years ago we had the roof replaced on our detached, single family house. The job seemed to be well done and we had no complaints. This afternoon, however, as I lay down on my bed for a moment, and, looking straight up, noticed a nail protruding through the white, finished ceiling directly above me.  I look at that spot in the ceiling multiple times a day, and there is no way that the nail was protruding before this afternoon.  The house has two stories, and a 16 foot ceiling in that room. No one, to my knowledge has been on that part of the roof since the new roof was put on.
So, is it normal for a nail to come through so long after the new roof was put on? In any case, what dangers/issues are there with this situation, and what steps might I take to correct the problem? Picture attached.


texts: How should I replace a cantilevered rim joist?

texts:
The rim joist on the front of my house has water damage and needs to be replaced. When I pulled off most of the rot, less than half the board's thickness remained. The floor is cantilevered about 3 feet. The joist is a 2x10 about 13' long. I originally was going to sister in a replacement for the damaged area but my neighbor (a city inspector) said that if it were his house, he'd replace the whole board. And since I have the entire board exposed right now anyway, I figured I might as well. What I don't know is how be sure the house doesn't shift while I replace it.

I haven't noticed any dip in the floor inside. There is nothing especially heavy in the bedroom over the cantilevered area (no piano or anything like that).

I was thinking I'd put temporary 2x10 blocking between the floor joists and then pull out and replace the rim joist. Is that safe or do I need to somehow put the floor on jacks? Can I also replace the rotted section of the bottom plate at the same time?


texts: How can I adjust a whole-house ventilation bathroom exhaust timer?

texts:
We have a home built in 2008 in west-central Minnesota. As a cost-saving (I perceive it as such, and may be mistaken) measure to fulfill air quality and venting code, the builder set up an upstairs bathroom's exhaust fan to run on a timer - something like 45mins of every hour. It's apparently designed to replace the entire house's air volume once each day.

The switch can also be flipped up to run the fan on demand, and turns the fan off when flipped down. I'm not sure if the timer has any relation to whether the switch is on or off, though.

I've been thinking of either adjusting the timer so it runs less frequently, or disabling it  entirely (with an easy option to re-enable it).

Any thoughts? What should I look for? Is there a timer at the fan, or is this something a little more intricate at the switch? Would this be a two-way switch with one end controlled by the timer?


texts: How to fix dripping sound coming from toilets?

texts:
Two toilets doing the same thing: When solids or liquids are added to the bowls, a dripping sound can be heard.  Otherwise, they are silent.

There is no water leaking out of either toilet onto the floor.  Neither toilet flushes on its own.  I completely replaced all the innards of one of the toilets; it made no difference.

What is this dripping sound?  Do I need to fix it?  If so, how?


texts: We have a central vacuum system that was installed in our 4 year old new build. It works perfectly but about 6 months ago we found water in the canister. We assumed our cleaners had accidentally dropped the end of the hose into the pool. We hired an industrial vacuum to suck out all the water (several gallons). All fixed and working well. Then yesterday found water again? Definitely not an accident this time. My husband thinks there is a leak and somehow water is getting into the system but surely we would lose suction? Any other suggestions?


texts: How do I reverse erosion which is lowering earth around fence posts?

texts:
Erosion has exposed several fence posts behind the back yard.

I've considered building a retaining wall, buying dirt and filling the area in then growing some ground cover, or eventually rebuilding the fence and digging the posts deeper. All of these are large, expensive projects that I can't afford for some time, so I thought I'd ask for some ideas.

What would you do with this fence if it were in your back yard?


texts: Replacing an outdoor junction box - need some help

texts:
Last year we had a contractor come to our house to do a few jobs. In the process, he ended up saying he busted a light bulb on our security light, and said he would fix it. About a week later, we noticed it wasn't fixed. Sadly it was getting towards winter time, and we ended up letting it go because of the bitter cold.

Well, it's warming up again, so i wanted to tackle it. Turns out though, he didn't just bust the bulb. He actually busted off one of the cups that would hold the bulb, and he also busted off the motion sensor. It appears that the entire light itself is one large junction box - the box has two lights coming out of it, and also the motion sensor. The picture hopefully illustrates that (sorry for the quality and distance, I'll have to rent a ladder for this fix).

So, can anyone tell me what I'm looking at? Is the light itself a junction box? Or is it just a housing in front of another junction box? I can't seem to find a similar style light to base it on. If I have to replace the entire box that's fine, I just need to make sure I'm not doing anything that goes against code.


texts: Simplest solution for hanging 50lb frame with welded hooks

texts:
I have a 50lb mirror I'd like to hang. It has an iron frame with two hangers welded onto the curved top edge on the back. Here's a close-up of one of them:

The hangers are about 17" apart on center, and the keyhole cutouts are 3/4" wide. The wall is standard drywall, and there happens to be a stud dead-center where I'd like to hang it.

What are the simplest and safest options here? Considerations:

I haven't checked yet but there's no guarantee that the brackets are 100% level, so the solution needs to be able to account for that.
I'd like for the mirror to hang as flush to the wall as possible, minimizing lean-out and gap.
I'm pretty conservative re: hanging weight and would strongly prefer using the stud for support, although I can be convinced otherwise. I saw this (Hillman no-stud hanger) mentioned in another answer and perhaps two of those could work if the result hangs fairly close to the wall, although point #1 could make this very challenging.
Preference is for a minimum of "construction": cutting wood, etc. This technique (spanning plywood) seems to be a good solution, and I can make it happen, but if there's something simpler that is as safe I'd be interested.

My experience with hanging anything close to this heavy is to just use a z-bar, but I don't have that option with this frame.


texts: Trial and error to choose glue for plastic handle on refrigerator?

texts:
I have a Frigidaire French-door refrigerator with a broken handle.  I've identified the part, and it's $47 to replace (plus tax and shipping).  Being cheap, I'd like to try to repair rather than replace it. It's a clean break at both ends, with decent surface area and a snug friction fit when inserted in place - a good candidate for glue.

I found these relevant and useful answers:
 - Identifying Type Plastic
 - best glue for ABS kitchen appliance

Since identifying plastics is tricky and requires a flame test, my question is: Can I try different glues in sequence (until I get a good bond) without messing up my material?

I propose to try Isocyanate (superglue) first and if I don't get a good bond go on to ABS primer, and/or PVC primer. Suggestions welcomed!


texts:
I know I can't ask shopping questions, but please bear with me.

I don't want to purchase turnbuckles for my wire rope fence, so I want to use what someone here suggested: use a reverse-threaded screw eye on one post and a regular eye screw on the other. Then I tighten both without affecting the rope.

So I already have the size 104 screw eyes, but I'm having trouble finding that same screw eye, but reverse-threaded.

I've called many businesses (both retail and online) and nobody seems to have them. Is this an item that does not exist?


texts:
I need a glue that would work on ceramic tiles to attach a shower curtain rod.  I have tried all types of rods and due to the humidity, they fall down.

Please leave names of glue that would work for this type of situation.

Thanks


texts: Multiple leaking faucets after a hotwater tank and PRV install. Any tricks?

texts:
My 40 gallon water heater blew and I replaced it with a tankless unit and have been slowly upgrading the plumbing lines (so they don't stick though the fist floor ceiling) and added a pressure reducing valve (PRV) since then.

It took me a few weeks to get the tankless unit shipped and installed. During that time I had the hotline where the tank use to be open to air with no pressure on it and started to noticed some back-flow from the cold side into my hot pipes from some of the upstairs faucets, so I threw a push-connect ball valve on it.  About a week later, the faucet in the laundry basin started to also started to backflow into the hot line (I could drain the line by opening the hot valve after using the cold).  The supply pressure at the time was about 140 psi, and I just assumed it was due to the lack of pressure on the hot water side.

I was able to get my on-demand hot-water heater installed a few days before my PRV came in, so I only had it connected up to the part of the house that included the laundry basin faucet.  When I fist connected it, the faucet leaked a heavy trickle. Alternating the hot and cold from fully on to fully off got the leak to stop.

After installing the PRV I added connected the upstairs sinks to the hot water line. However, once connected, both started to leak cold water.  I tried alternating the hot and cold from full on to full off, but the leak got slightly worse this time.

Why are all my valves failing during this install?  Isherwood's comment on this question lead me to believe the initial city pressure, or water hardness have something to do with my current issues.

Is there a trick to fixing leaks that appear after restoring line pressure?


texts: Missing a strike plate in a metal/steel frame

texts: I live in a house that was built in the 1950s. The door frame was made of metal/steel. Since I noticed that the strike plate is missing, I'd like to install a new plate. My question is -- what kind of screws should I be using? Machine screws? If you look at the photo below, the mounting holes look like threaded holes. Thanks in advance.


texts: Help translate terminology relating to concrete floor construction

texts:
I just bought a house which had an extension done 12 years ago.
I am about to do some work in this area and want to understand what has been done before.
Below is a screen shot of the bits of the planning drawings relating to the concrete floor construction.

What does this say? (it is hard to scribe something when you don't fully understand it)

EDIT:

30mm screed on
175 bar concrete oversite
on 50mm Jablite
on 1200 polythene damp proof membrane
on 75mm hardcore (usually recycled concrete).

Does this have sufficient insulation properties or would you recommend I add more?

What is the likely-hood of this being level/smooth when I remove the existing tiles from the floor?


texts: Pressure testing downspout and shower nipples

texts:
I installed my shower system, which consists of a mixing valve with two ins(C+H) and two outs (downpout+shower), everything except mounting the actual shower head and downspout. The reason I left those is because I wasn't sure if their sweat joints need to be pressure tested against leakage. The test I did was just for the ins of the mixing valve, and there is no leak.

I understand that the pressure is much less in the downpout/shower nipples because the water is coming out. But the sweat joint (I used brass dropped ear elbows at the end of the copper branches coming out of the valve to join copper with threaded nipples) could still have leaks (although the leak flow-through would be much smaller because of the less pressure as a result of the release). I was thinking to put 1/2" threaded plugs in each elbow female where a nipple would otherwise go and turn the shower on. If there is no leak in the sweat joint of the elbow, then it's all good.

But I was wondering if this is a safe method, i.e. can the mixing valve be damaged if water is released through it without a way out? My question is, is this the best way to test the downspout and shower nipples sweat connection or do something else?


texts: Can this sliding door hardware support solid wood doors?

texts: I have 138F Johnson Sliding Bypass Door Hardware. I bought two 30 inch solid wood doors, and they are top mount and comes with 4 #12 1-1/4 long screws per door. The door feels like it weighs around 70lbs. Can these 4 screws hold a 70lb door that's top mounted?


texts: Protect a 6 inch air hose from physical damage

texts:
I've got this 6 inch air duct coming out of my clothes dryer:

As you can see, we use that space for storing all kinds of junk, and every time I move things around over there, I'm afraid I'll puncture the hose.

Can you think of a good solution for protecting that section of the hose? I was imagining something like a slightly bigger hose-like thing that's goes around the current hose, serving as a protective layer. Is there a product like that, or can you think of a different product that I could improvise with to accomplish the same thing?


texts: We have a new problem in out 110 yr old house.  Whenever a toilet is flushed sinks gurgle. We recently had a slow running sink and tub on the second floor.  That was well plunged by a plumber.  This seemed to start after.  Possible the vent is clogged?  Or could it be the main sewer pipe as well?


texts: Octagon Windows - are they worth replacing?

texts:
Intro:
My husband and I bought an older home that never actually got finished (no interior casing on windows, no door frames/fixtures, plywood floors throughout...). As far as we know, the foundation was poured in the late 70's and the remainder of what was built happened between the mid 80s-90s.

Although there are many interesting quirks to what the original owner started, he invested higher quality materials for certain things, like Anderson windows (crank-outs, sadly). He also installed 2 octagon-stained windows, which I thought were a little outdated at first, but they do reflect beautiful light when the sun hits and I think could be really nice if we found the right, updated replacements. They are both placed high on the walls (12-15ft from the ground), close to the top of the ceiling. One is in the downstairs bathroom, the other is in the kitchen (the are on opposite sides of the house in mirroring positions).

The real question
I'm wondering anyone has advice on replacing octagon windows and if it would be worth investing in having brand new ones replaced by a professional or if it something worth pursuing ourselves. We live in New England where we get hot/humid summers and cold/snowy winters... Any advice is greatly appreciated!


texts: Waterproofing Shower with BathFitter Tub

texts:
I'm re-tiling my shower and due to some mold/water damage or just bad material we ended up almost stripping everything down to the studs.  Of the 3 shower walls we had to put up new backerboard on two of them.
Because of budget/time/effort reasons we cannot remove the original bathtub, which remains in place with a Bathfitter acrylic insert.
Everything I have read about waterproofing says that ideally the backerboard is installed up to the edge of the tub flange and waterproofing membrane (we'll be using Redguard) should be applied over that joint to create a continuous waterproof surface.
Due to the way the original tub was installed, this is not possible.  What's my best option for moving forward so I dont end up with a leaky mess.


texts:
For indoor use, in living and bedroom. Search for 'wantrn 3 in 1 mosquito trap' should see something like

Description says it uses CO2 - carbon dioxide. I know its harmless unless there is so much that it removes O2 from the area, but what is too much? Is this safe? I have a lot of mosquitoes around. I've tried the light, and chemicals, but neither has worked.

Any other child friendly mosquito stoppers?


texts: How do I build shelves on non-square (>90 degrees) walls?

texts: I want to build shelves into an alcove, but the corners are not square. What is the best approach to this?


texts: How do you remove Minwax stainable wood filler?

texts:
Recently my husband and I (who both have no idea what we are doing obviously) just got done redoing our wood floors throughout our entire house. Everything turned out great excpet for the few areas that I applied minwax stainable wood filler.  Well it's NOT stainable and I learned the hard way.  Our floors are a dark walnut color and the filler is almost white or light cream.  It looks horrible and the filler is cracking in spots.  It's in a high traffic area. The floor also has been gone over with poly.

How can I just remove the wood filler without damaging our floor?


texts:
I have a dedicated HVAC unit for the rooms on the second floor of my house.  A bedroom at the opposite side to where the HVAC unit sits doesn't get enough AC or heat.  Right now, in winter, that room could be 10 degrees cooler than other bedrooms on the same level.  I confirmed the vents are open in the room.  It seems not enough hot air is reaching that room.   What could be the problem?

There's a supply vent that seems to disproportionately and needlessly heating the hallway and top of the stairwell.  I tried to close the vent but that didn't improve the situation in the cold bedroom.


texts: How can I route a cable around a floor joist over a wall?

texts:
I had to pull some drywall off because of a leak. I found that this wire was right under the drywall. It didn’t have any metal strap in front or anything. It runs down the side of that 2x4 and crosses the other 2x4. The drywall was installed over that whole section except for the 2x4 on the left. The 2x4 on the left is where the garage door is attached to.

I can see why they did it as the joist is right there and the wire is coming from above. So how would I route it correctly?

The circled section at the top is where the issue is. The bottom Circle is where it goes.

There’s not much slack above but it’s an attic like area, so a junction box could go up there.


texts:
This question below that someone else asked fits my situation.  One of the answers said to use double wedges.  What are those?  How can I raise the railing slowly so as not to break or crack the existing composite railing?

The original question:  How to fix sagging composite deck railing

  I have a composite deck (Fiberon boards with a Trex Designer railing
  system). The guy that built the deck didn't install any of the
  crush/foot blocks and now the railings are sagging. He's no longer in
  business, so now I need to try and fix this myself. I found a place
  online
  https://www.diyhomecenter.com/trex/transcend-railing-adjustable-footblock.aspx
  that sells the adjustible foot block, but I don't know if that'd do me
  any good. How can I install the footblocks now that the deck railing
  are already in place?


texts: How do I repair a small leak in a steam radiator? Could this be a big problem?

texts:
One of my steam radiators has a small leak under the bottom.  No hole is visible, but water drips out at a rate of a few drops per minute.  Various websites suggest applying a 1 mm thick layer of J-B Weld after sanding and cleaning with acetone.

Does the fact that the radiator leaks necessarily mean that it is completely rusted from the inside and that leaks will soon appear elsewhere?  Or is it likely that a slow leak is not due to rust, or that the rust is in only one place?

The radiator is decades old (perhaps even a century), but has been moved recently in order to repair the floor.  The leak is clearly away from the valve.


texts: Yard Smells Funky When It Rains-I have a Septic System

texts:
I just bought a house with well and septic. The last two times it has rained continuously for more than a day I noticed a foul smell around my back yard.

There is a septic system, but I had it pumped out just after moving in and the septic company said it looked fine.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


texts: How do I cut a brick fireplace hearth to allow for a laminate flooring expansion gap?

texts:
I am attempting to cut a small piece out of the brick fireplace (already in place) to allow for the expansion of the floating laminate flooring that I am installing.  I don’t want to just leave the flooring short of the fireplace (I think this looks very unclean), I don’t want to put any molding across the front of the fireplace (I also think this would look terrible) and I don’t want to fill it with caulk.  I also considered purchasing the end cap pieces, but I didn’t think having the trim going in a difference direction than the flooring would look very nice (fireplace is not parallel to the flooring, see image at the end).

I bought a carbide blade (said it would cut through brick on the packaging) for my oscillating tool.  When I went to cut the brick, it barely put a dent in it.  So I’m not sure if my oscillating tool (1.8A) is just too weak (had it cranked up the whole way) or if I need to go with a grinder and a diamond blade or some other tool.

The tricky part is, the fireplace is in the corner of the room, so I would need something that would get into a tight place.  So before I sink any more money into trying things, I wanted to see if anyone had any advice on how to cut this.  I was also thinking after making the cut, I would need to somehow chisel out the pieces at the bottom as well (maybe they would break off?).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Here is a zoomed out image if that helps (No I didn’t put in the off center fire place, it was like that when I bought the house).


texts:
When replacing door trim the wallboard PAPER came off! how do I repair this 6’ x 1’ strip along side door frame?
Do I joint compound plaster?


texts: How to re-plumb when trap next to stack?

texts:
I am Finishing my laundry room and existing sink drain has a trap right next to stack, which I believe is wrong ( see pic ).

I'm wanting to replace the sink ( to the left in the pic ), but would prefer not to mess with the stack.  Is there any legitimate way to do this plumbing right/acceptable, without redoing the stack joint?

Could I...

Just leave the trap and add another trap immediately under the new sink?
cut into the trap on the right 45-bend and tie in there, maybe even immediately raise the run to the left above where the joint enters the stack?

I'm a DIY who has done PVC plumbing but reading online, messing with the stack is probably beyond me.

Any other options?

Thanks for any insight!


texts: How can I identify the conductors in an appliance cord with only the green wire colored?

texts:
I've bought an appliance power cord for my dishwasher, however, unlike this cable:

(my car was parked)

only the green (ground) cable is colored.

Does this mean that when I connect the cord to the appliance, the black and white wires are in fact interchangeable?

Is this because it is AC?


texts: HE Front End Washer vibrations on wood floors: any tried-and-true solutions?

texts:
We recently purchased a new washer and dryer set. It's a High Efficiency front loader washer with the high speed spin cycles.

It's causing us grief. It vibrates like crazy. To the point where it's walking across the floor and you can feel it throughout much of the first floor.

I've 'tuned' the feet to make sure it's perfectly level, and it helps, but is not a cure-all.

There seems to be a lot of chatter online and theories, though I have yet to find anything definitive (maybe I'm adding to the chatter...)

Questions:

is it true these really should only be purchased if used on concrete slabs? Seems that's a common statement about these HE washers.
is there a tried-and-true way to beef up the floor? Seems that one solution is to rip out the hardwood and then glue-and-screw two layers of high quality sub-floor products together. Then add lots of cross-bracing to the joists underneath. However, I still read that this doesn't fix all situations. And given how much work that'd be, I'd like to be a bit more confident in the solution before beginning.
we have a plastic 'leak pan' underneath that the feet sit on. Should I omit this? This is obviously an easy thing to try so will probably give it a go--though we do end up losing the (albeit small) benefit of having the leak pan.
or should I just give up and see if Home Depot will allow a return and swap it out for a lower efficiency top-loader?

Note I have researched the rubber pads. However, my own experience with them previously (on a top loader) and feedback from plenty of people online is that they really don't do much, if anything.


texts: I have 10/3 wire. Can I replace my 3 prong outlet with 4 prong for a dryer?

texts:
In my house there was a 3-prong outlet for the dryer and when I opened it I saw that there is 4 wires and the ground and neutral are on the same terminal. Can I change the outlet to a 4 prong? The hot wires and neutral are 10 gauge, but the ground is 12.

Is this OK for the dryer?


texts: How much weight a concrete roof of 12x06 feet dimensions can hold. Will it easily support a water tank of 150 gallon capacity ?


texts: Digital brewery controller: What buck/boost configuration to get to 240VAC from 208VAC?

texts:
First of all, I live in the United States.

I own a 240VAC digital control panel and am considering leasing a warehouse space that only has 208VAC. The control panel contains a digital computer, and drives a 5.5kW heating element along with a couple of small centrifugal pumps.

The control panel will remain plugged in, but the driven loads will cycle on and off, under software control.

So I know what I'm talking about when I speak to an electrician, I'd appreciate some opinions on the ideal number of transformers, along with configuration and ratings.

The landlord gave me a build-out quote of $8,900 for transformers, a 240V outlet, and four 120V outlets. I think that's high.

I'd appreciate some education.


texts: Is it safe and legal to tape cable with a damaged sheath?

texts:
This electrical cable was tightly stapled to an inner stud.  It passes through the wall to an outside light.

While prying the staple off, I tore the outer sheath. Wire doesn't appear damaged.  Light still works.

So: Is it safe to electrical tape this and re-staple to stud?


texts: How can I attach a top plate for a wall that falls between joists?

texts:
I have a wall that I need to build to make a defined space for a laundry room.  I am running into 2 problems with my project:

I have a slanted ceiling, and
The wall will be going parallel to the joists.

I have read that I need to add nailing block to the ceiling; however (admittedly, looking for a short cut here), I was hoping maybe I could avoid cutting into the ceiling by accessing the attic above, installing the blocking, and then attaching the top plate (hopefully that is the right terminology) to the ceiling?  I think I can mud the wall, but the ceiling is textured, and I want to avoid having to re-texture as much as possible.


texts: LED bulb replacement in Dusk-Dawn Outdoor 175W light

texts:
My old metal halide bulb finally died after 30 yrs use. Considering switch to LED corn bulb. However, the seller website states "Connects directly into E39 Mogul Bases. Just screw in. Please note that in some cases the ballast may have to be bypassed when changing to LEDs. Most are plug and play but please check. (LEDs uses a driver, not a ballast)". LED bulb seller's website

So my question is "How do I check?". Would like to go to LED for quicker starts, BUT... not if it means headaches with a ballast.

The original bulb is Philips PS Lifeguard H69KB-175 (as best I can tell... the writing is very faded after 30 yrs use.)


texts:
I have a ceiling fan with an FCL-30EX circline bulb. It's marked as 2700K, 30W, 120V. My main issue is that it is very dim. I would like to replace it with an equivalent of 100W if possible.
Led would be preferable. Does such a replacement exist?
Thanks!


texts: Two Fixtures, one Circuit. How does this work?

texts:
I have two adjacent light switches in a bedroom.  One switch is intended to operate 4 recessed lights, the other is intended to operate a ceiling fan/light (via a wired remote).  When I bought the house, both switches worked and operated the fixtures independently.   Some time later the remote switch stopped working, so it was removed (I did not note how it was wired, thinking it would be easy to wire).  Fast forward 2 years later to today, I'm finding only only one HOT wire in the box, and one circuit wire that leads to BOTH the recessed lights and the ceiling fan (confirmed via operation or continuity test).  There are ground and neutral wires that are wire-nutted and another black wire that is neither hot nor connected to the fixtures.

How is this possible?

I can't seem to wire both switches to operate the circuits independently, but I'm fairly certain is was wired as such (have had the ceiling fan switch removed for some time).

Attached a clearer picture.  Wire summary follows:

Black wire, lower left, yellow nut (HOT);
Black wire, lower right, yellow nut (leads to ceiling fan AND recessed lights);
Black and white wires, upper right, white nuts (no apparent function)


texts: Which breaker should trip with a ground fault with a subpanel?

texts: I am installing a subpanel in an outbuilding and understand that I need to use a four wire feed and keep the ground separate from the neutral at the subpanel. I know that is code, but I like to understand how things work. I am trying to conceptualize how a ground fault on a circuit in the outbuilding would trip a breaker and which would trip. There are four breakers involved. The main, the breaker supplying the subpanel, the "main" at the subpanel and the final circuit breaker. If a ground fault occurred, which one would trip? It would seem the final would need to, in order to isolate the problem. Does the surge caused by the fault travel all the way back to the main through the ground wire then back to the final breaker?


texts: How should I properly connect outdoor string lights to power outlet?

texts:
I got this string light from Costco and I am currently using a heavy duty outdoor extension cord to connect it temporarily.
The outdoor power outlet is around 10 ft away from where the string lights need to be plugged in.
What would be the best way to connect it permanently?


texts: Replacing old bathroom fan/heater/light switch

texts: Not changing the fan, but wanted to change out switch.  This is what I'm seeing so I'm not sure what is going on. Thoughts?


texts: How can I protect partially buried deck posts from decay?

texts:
I poured concrete footings for my deck. I put the galvanized post base and the 4x4 post on it. Now I need to raise the ground/dirt level as water puddles there. But if I raise the ground it will cover the footing, post base and a few inches of the post. I'm concerned the dirt will decay the post. Can someone recommend a solution?

I was thinking of wrapping the post somehow or maybe cut the post and pour more concrete over the existing footing but afraid it will not hold up.

I already have a deck. It's a pool deck about 8x20 attached to another deck that is 20x25 which is attached to the house. The pool deck has 9 footings, enough that it can be freestanding but I attached it to the existing deck. I'd need to raise 5 of the nine footings about 4-6 inches. They are the footing near the pool not the rear ones near where deck is attached to other deck.

I can leave the post base which is bolted into the footing and add a few rebar pieces, put a form around and pour concrete with bonding adhesive http://www.homedepot.com/p/SikaLatex-1-Gal-Concrete-Bonding-Adhesive-and-Acrylic-Fortifier-187782/202521398. Sound reasonable? Would I just drill a few holes for the rebar pieces, maybe 4-6 inches deep? Should the holes be wider than rebar to get some fresh concrete around them?


texts: Exterior grading where brick meets stone foundation

texts:
I'm wondering how my soil should be graded where my exterior brick meets my stone foundation.

The first photo below shows my soil coming up above my brick line, while the left photo shows the soil below the brick line.

Should I clear out all this soil so it doesn't reach the brick line?


texts: How can I reverse my breaker box cover panel ? Opens the wrong direction

texts:
I have a square D load center - HOMC12UC.  You can install it with the door opening in either direction, since there are identical punchouts in the top and bottom.
However, my installer wasn't thinking and installed it the wrong direction.  So now the default door that came with it is opening the wrong direction (and is difficult to use/access).
You can't just spin the panel cover 180 degrees - it is asymmetrical, vertically.
So, I need the part number for the panel cover that opens the other direction.
Does anyone know that part number ?  I cannot find it.


texts: How much should I pay someone to stain my deck and fencing?

texts: Need to know how much for wooden fence and deck restaining? The color put on it a while ago is not a good color btw so pressure wash it good and re-stain with a dark brown color. How much should be charged for a handyman or fence company to do this, in Georgia. Inside & outside of fence 1000 SQ FT and deck is 400 SQ FT.


texts: What's the proper method for installing new studs in existing frame?

texts:
FYI - This is similar to a question I asked last week, but is about something more specific.  Expect to see this image yet again in another question I will be asking later today :).
I need to install Genie Clips on the far left and right side of the wall, but there are no studs exposed.  The right side of the wall should be easy since there is a stud right along the edge on the inside.  All I need to do is put a new stud up against it and screw it in.
The left side is a bit different since the next stud is about six inches in.  I am going to need to attach the stud to the top and bottom of the frame.
My questions:

Right stud: What's the best way to screw the stud into the frame at the top and bottom so that it's sturdy enough to support the new wall I am going to hang on it?
Left stud: Since I will be able to screw this stud into another stud, how many screws should I use?  Should I put the screws in pairs so that it's two screws side by side all the way down?
What length and type of screws should I use for both studs?  I am assuming wood screws for this job, but I am not sure about the small details.
Edit: Perhaps there is a sort of metal bracket that I would need to install at the tops and bottoms instead of putting the top and bottom screws in at an angle?

Here's my wall:


texts: setting up long runs of hardwood flooring: where to square from?

texts:
So I have a 3 bedroom house, middle room being the smallest. The master is the widest covering the width of the house, and the 3rd room at the back is long and 2/3 the width of the master.

I am doing the install one room at a time as there's stuff I have to move around to make room. Currently I occupy the master with furniture etc.

I would like to set up long runs of wood that span the length of the house, going from master all the way to the back end of the 3rd bedroom. I'm also going to run a piece of flooring centered across the bottom of the door to break up the rooms and divide the floor, but keeping the long run. The middle room steps out into the middle of the hall. offset right and across the door is the bathroom, offset left is the stairs down.

So here is the issue I'm attempting to plan around. I'm trying to get the runs parallel to the hallway so it's straight. It also has to be parallel to the door opening to the middle room, this might turn my install a few degrees in the room, which is fine. What I'm having trouble with is carrying the run into the master and into the 3rd bedroom. I've pushed out a parallel guideline into the hallway from the middle room transition, using this as an anchor as best I can that will be parallel to the door when it's closed. This guideline seems to match the nose for the stairs. It extends into the master where the entrance steps into the right side of the room. From my line to the right wall I have maybe 1/2 inch out of square for a room that's about 12 feet wide. measuring the left wall corners off my guide, I find I'm only about 1/4 inch off from one corner to the other off the far left wall. That's very tolerable, though could be better, but it's a 30 year old house, I expect rooms not to be square. They aren't. So I'm very willing to take 1/2 out.

Here's where things go south. Using my laser square, I project the guideline into the 3rd bedroom. To one wall, I believe I might be 1/2 out. Which is not bad, but I can also hide it since the closets are on that side and I can hide that under the sliding door tracks. Where I will make the transition into the closets.

The problem is the other wall, over 11 ft it's almost a whole inch off.

My boards are 3 1/4" wide, and 1 inch over a run of 11 ft is going to be very noticeable. I won't be able to hide that under molding, in fact the shoe mold might make it look worse.

Should I run with this and chalk it up to the house not being square, or is there a better way to approach this measurement? I'm thinking I could put a screw into the sub floor of the master and run a string all the way to the back of the house and try and measure perfect square from that, but I might run into an issue where the transition on the middle room will no longer be straight across the door frame.


texts:
I am wiring a 240v furnace with 6/3 wire. The furnace has individual breakers as the connection point, one for each phase.
My question is- is it ok to jumper the neutral from one breaker to the other. Is it even necessary since the phases us each other to complete the circuit? Any safety issues?

Thanks for any help


texts: Does the height of a water heater safety valve matter?

texts:
I just replaced the safety valve on my water heater. The only immediately available replacement was an inch taller than the original. It is still in contact with the water. Is it safe?

This is the exact fit replacement part (it was not in stock locally): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-3-1-4-in-Standard-Shank-Water-Heater-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-SP12574/205651345

This is the part I bought (it is taller and the temperature rod is shorter): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Acme-3-4-in-Bronze-NCLX-5LX-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-with-2-1-2-in-Shank-MNPT-Inlet-x-FNPT-Outlet-23577-0150/203164748

Is this replacement part adequately safe or should I go ahead and order the exact fit?


texts: Running conduit from an old rectangular 2 x 3 exterior box?

texts:
I have an old 2” x 3” rectangular recessed electrical box recessed in aluminum siding,  which was standard back in 1972 when my home was built.

I am trying to figure out how I can use this box as a source to run conduit from it to a new outdoor light receptacle  several feet above it.

Is there an extension box made for these smaller old boxes that I could attach to it to run the conduit to the new box 2 feet above?

If not how would you recommend accomplishing what I’m trying to do ??
Thanks for your help


texts:
I have the following water pressure gauge.

I need to connect it to the garden valve, but not sure which adapters I would need.

Something like this:


texts: Do I need both contacts to open/close on a centrifugal switch?

texts:
I have a bench grinder that doesn't want to start. I figured out the problem: bad centrifugal switch. It's a two-contact, normally open affair (it starts closed, then as the grinder spins up the weight is taken off and it opens). One of the switching contacts is great. The other looks like the part that was actually making contact got ripped off, or fused to the bottom and then when it sprung back ripped off, or something like that. I verified it's the switch causing the problem because the broken contact arm actually stuck a bit when I closed it, so I pushed it closed until stuck, reassembled the grinder, and it started normally.
This grinder is ancient and the switch would be a complete pain to replace, both mechanically and simply finding a replacement. I'm wondering if I really need both contacts to actually open/close for longevity in the future. Could I just solder the ripped contact arm down to the contacting section? I'm assuming that both have to be closed in order for current to flow, so is it enough to just have the centrifugal part of the switch only open/close that single contact arm?


texts: The garage door Drive Chain Sprocket Won't Move

texts:
Because the chain was broken so I want to repair it. There is related issue.

However after I unplugged the power and took off the chain sprocket. I tried to move the sprocket by hand. But it won't move. Is this the real reason to cause the chain broken? What I have to do?


texts: Do you need to tape and 'mud' cement board corners in dry settings?

texts:
We're giving our wood stove surround a makeover. We're going to build out the front with steel studs and cement board, then tile over it.

For the cement board, does one need to mesh tape the seams and corners? I know that's required for a wet install (such as a shower) but since this is a completely dry install, is that a required step?

If it is a required step, any tips? I've done it before for a shower, but it was a huge pain to get a final flat surface for the tile. I ended up with some slightly lumpy walls.


texts: Angle Stop Valve Behind Toilet Coming Apart When Trying to Unscrew The Nut Connected To It

texts:
A simple bidet installation got me in a mess. I closed the angle stop valve behind my toilet and removed the flex hose to install 1/2" to 3/8" threaded coupling. Then I connected a 3/8" T-adapter and connected my toilet hose to one end, and a bidet hose to the other. Worked great except for a slow drip between the threads of the stop valve and the coupler, even with 4 layers of Teflon tape. Many re-assemblies later, in an attempt to stop the leak I apparently over-tightened the coupler, and now when I try to loosen it (piece #3 in the picture) piece #2 goes with it, causing water to spurt out between pieces 1 and 2. It happens with the valve fully closed. Turns out the stop valve (a quarter turn valve) is made of 2 pieces threaded into each other, and now I'm disassembling the valve while it's trying to hold back water! I can't just tighten it up again either because the valve/coupler connection still seeps.

Any tricks for binding pieces #1 and #2 together so I can unscrew part #3? Part 2 doesn't have a hex shape to grab with a wrench. Assuming welding them together somehow is not an option since there's water in the pipe.

As for replacing the valve- we're in a condominium which has a cold water shutoff for our unit, but it turns continuously and doesn't shut off the water. I'd probably need to shut off water for all 7 units which requires advanced notice, and confidence. Would like to avoid it if possible.

I'll never over-tighten again and will choose parts with gaskets instead of threads only.

Thanks in advance.

Valve for just my unit. Turns forever, doesn't close.

Valve for whole building. Works fine.


texts:
I am new to this site and appreciate all your help.  I tried to replace a light fixture in one bedroom with a newer, heavier one.  The house was built in 1971 and has 2 circuits for all the lights.  After turning off the power to the circuit that had the bedroom lights on it, I set about to replace one of the fixtures in a bedroom with a newer, heaver one.  I installed a brace and new box and then went up to wire it.

The old fixture box had 3 cables of 12/2 coming into it. With power on, I used my voltage tester on each wire coming into the old box and discovered that all neutrals were hot as well as the blacks in the other cables.  However, after I cut the soldered wires off and then checked again each wire with the voltage tester, I discovered that on one of the 3 cables coming in, the black wire was hot, the neutral was not hot (I'll refer to this as "sparky".  This neutral had been "made hot" by the soldering of it with a hot wire.

So, I went about to connect the 3 cables again, making all three of them all hot like the electrician before me did.  To do this it didn't seem to me to matter which wires were wired together since all were going to be hot anyway, right?

So I created two groups, each with one (originally hot) wires and an equal number of white wires and grounded all grounds together to the new metallic box, then made sure to pigtail between the 2 groups.  I wasn't particular which wires from which cable went to the 2 groups, since on the old box, each wire was hot anyway.  I then tied all grounds to the metalic box.

When I threw the power, the breaker tripped immediately.  I am not sure what I failed to understand.  But I obviously did something wrong.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Here’s 3 photos of the switch loop that I cut out.


texts:
We're planning to expand our basement underneath our deck and would ideally like to cover this section of the deck in glass as in this photo.  (Posted: Wear skirts at your own risk!)

Our architect figures it would cost about $75k for the glass and supports alone, to do a similarly sized implementation in our home.  The interior dimensions are about 15'X 9' Do others agree with this estimate, or is there was perhaps a cost-saving measure that our architect might not have thought of.

Otherwise we'll be stuck with just a few glass panels at ~$3k each.


texts: Identify this faucet? Looking for replacement soap dispenser

texts:
I am trying to determine the brand (and possibly model) of this faucet so I can look for a matching replacement soap dispenser.

Thanks for any help you can provide.


texts: How can I make use of this non-standard network cabinet in my garage?

texts:
I have a network cabinet in my garage, but I've discovered that it seems to be a non-standard size, and I can't find anything to fit it.

It looks to have been installed by the previous owners for their telecom system (they had 4 phone lines throughout the house). I would like to convert it to a network/telecom panel, with leaving two of the existing wires on the telecom, and converting the rest to gigabit ether, and the two wires left on the telecom, I want to use as 100 mbit ether.

Here is an image of the patch panel with it's dimensions (all dimensions are rough):

As far as I can tell, the center pole is riveted in place and can't easily be removed. There is also, plenty of play in the ethernet cables, so I can move stuff up or down easily. The cabling is cat-5e.

I've searched monoprice and I can't find anything that will fit it, and google isn't being helpful either. Do they make stuff to fit this size and I just can't find this? Do I need to remove it and put in a larger sized cabinet? Or is it just useless?

Additional note: The current telecom splitter that is in there is made by Dynaflex Inc, who are no longer in business.


texts:
OCPD: 400A
System: 480/277V
Ungrounded conductor size: 500kcm

How do I find the minimum size Cu THHN grounded conductor?

I tried using T250. 102(c)(1) from 2017 NEC 70 and I got 1/0 AWG but I am not convinced that I answered the entire question or even if I am on the right track.

I need to know how to approach this problem.


texts: Options for covering an in-wall safe removal?

texts:
I recently removed an in-wall safe which fit neatly between two 16"-on-center studs. But now I'm left with a big hole in the wall where the safe once was.

Since the hole is behind a closet door, I'd rather not invest the time in patching/sanding/repainting the drywall to restore the original condition. But I also don't want to leave a gaping hole for whomever buys my house someday.

I was hoping there was some sort of panel or insert that could cover this up, but look "finished" enough so that it didn't seem like I just threw a chunk of plywood over it.

Any suggestions?


texts:
Brand: whirlpool
Model: senseon ggw9868kq2

Lately the dryer will not always heat up. I pulled off the front panel and watched the igniter while I started the drying cycle. It will always glow bright, but sometimes I will not get a flame. I'm guessing that either it's not getting gas consistently or that the igniter is not always getting hot enough to ignite... but I don't know much about this and am not sure what is wrong.

What would cause this behavior?

Video of when it starts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDKW8EdmNnI

Video of when it doesn't:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcwPH2upVxY

I also noticed that right before and during the glow, there is a bunch of clicking like sound coming from that area.

Edit 9/24

I tried holding a flame near the igniter while the igniter was glowing but it still didn't ignite.

Here is a video with me using a multimeter (not sure if I used it correctly though):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Lpgdmsqjo

and a video trying to get a good look at the pipe/igniter area:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfgy49R24zI


texts: Does a drill press or a hammer drill have more torque?

texts:
I've recently bought this hammer drill for the purpose of getting a drill press holder. I like my tools modular.

I was about to get above type of drill press, when I checked my options for an actual drill press
I was expecting much significantly better specs:
both nearly the same top speed  -- 3000 rpm for my drill and 2900 rpm for the latter. both has 12 speeds, but mine has a handling of 7A, while the latter is 3.85A.
To me, at least torque is more important than speed and neither shows it explicitly.
So,

Which one has a higher torque?
If I was to assume that the current handling is actually reached at some given (usable) speed and assuming that given (usable) speed is nearly the same for both drills, then my current drill has more peak torque, obviously. Assuming the given speed is usable.

If my drill has higher torque, then why so? I mean look at the casing for the latter's drill, it's definitely larger.


texts: NEC Rules for Placing Outdoor Receptacles (Residential)

texts: What are the rules for where you can place an outdoor receptacle on your home? I read somewhere (can't remember where) that you are not allowed to tap power from inside a kitchen or laundry/utility room but I can no longer find the source. I am trying to add a couple of extra outdoor receptacles and want to ensure that I will be doing it according to code.


texts: Room easy to warm with heater. But difficult to cool with A/C. Is this not insulation related?

texts:
I live in an apt building in the 60's. I always notice that the room is always warmer than the outside in the winter time(even with no heating). This stays true in the summer time where it would be 65 outside at night and somehow the room can stay in the low 80's(if I leave A/C and ventilation off).

Does this indicate a well insulated apt?

It is really easy to warm up my apt with a cheap $20 electric heater in the winter. I would go from low 40's to 70's with the heater on full.

However, in the summertime, my window A/C unit struggles to even get the room to the low 80's. Granted, I am on the 2nd floor and have windows facing the sun most of the day.

Is it just a weak A/C, lack of airflow?


texts: Breaker trips when turning switch on with no load (No GFCI)

texts: This circuit is a dedicated light circuit with 7 can lights. I removed all the bulbs, turned the switch on, breaker trips. I swapped the switch, breaker trips. I' guessing there's a short circuit somewhere but how to go about locating it? The can light wiring is in the attic near the eaves, not easy to access. Is there a way to test the can lights from below or just suck it up and low crawl to each fixture? Once I'm there, how to test?


texts:
Replacing a tub spout...took the old one off without issue or really looking at things.  Generally a no brainer.
When replacing with new Moen spout (typical 1/2" slip-fit CC connection) I noticed one side of spout was tight/flush to wall and one was not, no matter how much jiggling, twisting, pushing, etc. I did.  I put a square up against the wall and stub-out (1/2" copper tube) stub out to check and clearly it's not square:

Anything I should/could do to fix this before replacing/installing new spout?


texts: Can neutral be used instead of ground for a tankless water heater?

texts:
A friend wants to install a tankless water heater under the kitchen sink for faster hot water and plans to use a 40A circuit near the sink that is meant for an electric range.  The house was built in the 90s, so the wire to the range is 8/3 with no ground.

The tankless is a pure 240v device and is adamant about requiring a ground, so it requires two hots and a ground.  Now, I know that electrically, he has 3 wires available for the device, and the neutral goes to the same place as the grounds.  The heater will work, and it should be safe, but is there a reason to not just use the neutral in place of a ground?

Aside from the wire being white instead of green, what are the problems with this install?


texts: Is it possible to hook up a Light/Fan combo switch with this wiring setup?

texts: I would like to add a dimmer switch to my kitchen light but it is a ceiling fan. I understand that you should not use a regular dimmer switch with a ceiling fan, but would I be able to connect a Light/Fan combo switch with the existing wiring setup?


texts:
Not exactly about home improvement, but we just bought a house and our inspector showed us that, at least here in the Northeast of the US, they would often write the date the house was completed on the underside of the basement sink. Ours lists 2/26/1936, which is pretty cool!
I'm wondering if anyone can help decipher what the other numbers mean? (Sorry for the weird angle – it's hard to get under there!)


texts: How can I stop the bass from shaking my house?

texts:
When I play music through my speakers, they are on top of a shelf directly under the ceiling, and the bass shakes the wood panel wall and ceiling tiles, which causes loud rattling. Is there some simple fix to this, maybe to weigh these things down somehow, that will lower the amount of rattling?

The wood panel walls are very thin, about half an inch (?).

I'd want a very cheap solution.

Sorry if this isn't an appropriate question here... I couldn't find any other forum for this.


texts:
I have a hole in a laminated floor as in the picture attached below:

 I have been trying to find some kind of wood sheet or tile of the same color to hide it but could not find any. I cannot take on replacing the board as I have little experience with flooring. So I have been thinking if it is possible to get a piece of the same kind and try to fit it in or perhaps find some kind of tile that I can stick on top of it.


texts: Is this convex bend in my furnace filter slot OK?

texts:
I just bought a house that has a two-year old Carrier central air/ furnace unit. The filter holder slot has a convex bend on the side closer to the furnace which makes little gaps between the filter's cardboard frame and the metal filter holder. When the fan is running I can feel a little air flowing into these gaps rather than through filter.
Here is a picture:

I'd estimate the top gap is less than 1/8" and lower is maybe 1/4". This does not change when the fan kicks in, i.e. neither the filter nor the metal frame flexes to close the gap. When the fan is running I can feel a small amount of air flowing into the gaps, which would obviously not be getting filtered.
Is this a big deal? I assume like 95%+ of the air coming in the main return duct is flowing through the filter as intended, not flowing out around it and into those gaps.
Is it worth trying to bend the right side of the frame to be more flat, or having a service tech in to straighten it?
Note that there is no door that closes to cover the filter slot. It's permanently open by design AFAIK.
Thanks.
More Pictures
Filter insertion area, filter removed:

Filter slot viewed from inside:

So the filter's cardboard frame roughly sits where these red lines are:


texts: Can I use the grounding rods of a main panel as the grounding rods for my sub panel

texts: I ran 3 #6 B/R/W and 1 #8 Grn from my main panel through 1" sch 40 PVC to my garage and will be installing a 100A sub panel with separate ground and neutral blocks. I understand that since it is a separate building I need a grounding rod. I would like to know if I could run a # 8 bare copper wire to one of the two grounding rods of the main panel. The rod is about 7 feet from the wall I will be attaching my new sub panel to. This garage is 100 years old and solid brick only the roof is wood if that makes any difference. And should I install a 60amp GFCI breaker in the main panel for the main shutoff?


texts: I’m looking for advice on how to cut cardboard tubing into a T. The tubes I have are approximately 11” OD with a 1/4” thickness. I’m able to cut with a jigsaw but having difficulty cutting them with a nice fit. Any ideas?


texts: Installing GFCI outlets in multiwire branch circuit

texts:
Background:
There are four power outlets above my kitchen counter: three are located within 1.5 m of the sink, while the last one is further away. None of them are GFCI and some are damaged and in need of replacement. Current Canadian electrical code stipulates that any power outlets located within 1.5 m of a sink should have GFCI protection. My house was built in the late 1990s and apparently predates this GFCI requirement and I would like to bring them up to code with GFCI protection replacements for the three outlets close to the sink, if possible.
I have identified and shut off the two breakers that supply the four outlets and have pulled them out of the wall so I can see how they were wired.
All four of these kitchen counter outlets are on multiwire branch circuits. There are two MWBCs, each with two outlets. Each outlet has ground, a white neutral wire, and both a black and red line wire. The line tabs are broken on all four outlets and they are running in split configuration: black line to one half, red line to the other half.
This is how the existing outlets are wired:

And here are the two handle-tied breakers that supply the four outlets:

Question:
Aside from installing a double-pole GFCI breaker back at the panel, what would be the best way to install GFCI outlets in this environment?
I've done a lot of reading about this and feel like I've read conflicting answers, which is why I'm asking what may seem like a duplicate question; I need some clarification.
Could I cap the black line wire in one outlet and the red in another of the line wires at each outlet and wire the GFCI outlets as normal, or would the common neutral shared between two GFCI outlets cause them to keep tripping?
Here is an example of why I'm confused.
This answer starts off suggesting that this will not work:

... if you want to hook up GFCI receptacles. GFCI receptacles will not work properly with a shared neutral, you'll end up with nuisance tripping with a shared neutral. GFCI receptacles work by monitoring the balance between hot and neutral, so if the neutral is shared the GFCI will not work properly.

However, it then goes on to suggest that you can use multiple GFCI outlets with shared neutrals:

You can share a neutral between 2 GFCI receptacles. The catch is you'll have to pigtail the neutral to the receptacles, not use the neutral from the load side of the first GFCI to feed the second.

So, which is it?
This answer, on another question, makes a convincing argument for not using multiple GFCI with shared neutrals:

Ground fault circuit interrupting devices work by measuring the current on the ungrounded (hot) conductor, and the grounded (neutral) conductor. If the currents on these conductors differs by more than a specific amount, the circuit is opened preventing current from flowing. This can present a problem when using two separate GFCI breakers, because the current on the grounded (neutral) conductor will be the difference between the two ungrounded conductors.
Ungrounded conductor 1 = 13A
Ungrounded conductor 2 = 6A
Grounded conductor = 7A
In this situation, the breakers will detect a potential (false) ground fault and trip. This can easily be avoided by using a double pole GFCI breaker. This is because a double pole GFCI breaker monitors both ungrounded (hot) conductors, and a single shared grounded (neutral) conductor.

Any help would be much appreciated.


texts: Why do my new basement lights trip the breaker?

texts:
I am upgrading my basement and the builder initially put the family room and two lights in the basement all on one circuit. During the remodel I tried adding two more lights to that same run and it would trip the breaker after doing so. I believed this was due to having too many sockets on a two 15 amp breaker.

I then upgraded that breaker to a two 20 amp breaker in one. The lights continued to trip so with 3/4 lights on so I decided to remove two lights from that circuit and run it to a new one. So currently the lights should be exactly how the builder left it with two lights on the family room circuit, but with an upgraded 20 amp instead of 15, however that one light still trips the breaker. I am assuming this is due to the light fixture itself now as I replaced the original with a pocket light.

Am I right in thinking that its the new pocket light tripping the breaker somehow, or could it be the cable, or is it still too many items on that run?

Any help/advice is appreciated, I am a novice DIYer. Thanks!


texts: Samsung Washer WF218ANS-XAC troubleshooting help needed, smoke in the drum compartment

texts:
I think that our washer is toasted and I would like to know if it can be fixed before I decide to buy another one

Here is the history of this issue:

Yesterday my wife was doing the laundry and the washer in the basement started making a huge noise , I  was under the impression that the house was coming apart :-) . We both run to the basement, it was the washer that was making noise...it stopped by the time we got there. It was the final minute of the program as the timer was showing (I guess it was high speed squeezing)
We thought something was misplaced in the drum and that made the noise

Today my wife used the washer again and she is telling me that the washer worked for 30 minutes but it was making more than usual noise so she let it work ..at the end when she went back to see what was going on there was water on the floor and it was dripping from the bottom side of the drum window on the floor. The program ended and she tried to get the clothes out of the washer...that was when she noticed smoke coming out for the drum compartment and she called me.

My first move to troubleshoot this was to see if the drum is moving freely and by giving it a quick spin I noticed that the drum is facing some friction. By the sound it is like it is tangent to a rubber piece or something.

I am handy and I can probably take the job to fix it if it is doable. I just wanted to hear from those of you who have experience with this your opinion what could this be and what would be the steps to take to troubleshoot it

Also if you are aware of any place where I can download a service manual it would be greatly appreciated

Update: I have removed the back cover to look at the rotor and springs and I found this part sitting there:

OK I now know what happened. Or at least I guess what happened. The spider shaft assemble cracked and a piece of it was projected into the plastic case of the drum that was perforated ....this is by far a case of poor quality and manufactured defect. Below is a picture of the damaged piece and the damaged case. It is just horrible. I will post another question to find out if it iw worth ordering a new assembly.


texts: How to stop cold air from coming into the house

texts:
I have a door similar to this, but it is an external door.  There is a lot of cold air coming in from the bottom of this door, and around the perimiter (betweent he door and the frame).

This is a rental house, so I don't want to spend too much fixing this forever, just enough for it to be effective.

How do I prevent cold air from coming into the house?


texts: Proper grounding and service wire choice for remote load center, RV pedestal

texts:
I'm setting up a trailer pad at home and will be running service to a load center for the trailer and additional power to back yard area (about 100').  My only question to resolve is the proper way to set up the ground at the load center pedestal.  I'll be setting up a 50 amp 240v service using this panel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8FQUYW/

If I read the comments below by these experienced electricians correctly  then

I should bury an additional ground conductor (ECG) i.e. a 4-4-4-4 and not bond the neutral to ground at the load center but connect ground of load center back to the main service panel with the additional conductor.

I wonder if in additional to that it would be prudent to set a ground rod at the pedestal and tie that to the same unbonded ground of the load center as well.  Or is that overkill or simply ill advised?

If you have some experience with this issue would appreciate your thoughts.

  Jim, Take a look at 551.76. RV Pedestals SHALL BE GROUNDED by a
  continuous EGC run with the feeder conductors for the pedestal row.
  551.76 (C), The neutral SHALL NOT be used as an EGC. Having said all of this, ground rods at each pedestal would not be required, however
  after much investigation, in California for some reason, the AHJ wants
  ground rods at each pedestal and NO EGC run with the feeders. No
  matter which method is used, the neutral is not grounded or bonded at
  the pedestals.

  Name: Wayne Foster Email: hurk27@attbi.com Location: Indiana Title:
  Electrician In Trade Since: 1976 Registered: Jan 2002 Total Posts: 768
    posted November 15, 2002 at 01:12 AM       Edit/Delete Message "the
  AHJ wants ground rods at each pedestal and NO EGC run with the
  feeders. No matter which method is used, the neutral is not grounded
  or bonded at the pedestals."

  Talk about a dangerous setup if a appliance were to go to ground the
  earth would not provide a low enough impedance path to trip a 5 amp
  breaker!!! and the whole RV would be hot to earth!! could you imagine
  what would happen if a elderly couple touch the door and fell dead.
  guess whoo they would go after? the installer not the local AHJ.

  80.29 Liability for Damages. Article 80 shall not be construed to affect the responsibility or liability of any party owning, designing,
  operating, controlling, or installing any electric equipment for
  damages to persons or property caused by a defect therein, nor shall
  the _____ or any of its employees be held as assuming any such
  liability by reason of the inspection, reinspection, or other
  examination authorized. ```


texts:
I need to pour a few cubic feet of concrete to make a new threshold but the weather forecast indicates temperatures in the low 20s F.

Is that bad for curing concrete?


texts: Removing switched outlet and 4 terminal outlet with 2 terminal outlet?

texts:
I've read a number of questions about this topic, but I haven't found anything that seems to fit my situation.  Basically, I want to undo a switched outlet (full-hot), and turn it into an always-hot outlet.  I actually did this already by wiring the switch shut, as shown:

Basically, I capped the black and red wires together.  It would appear that a pig-tailed black wire was already capped previously, as well as the two white wires (I put electrical tape on the work I do, so I know it was me).

This switch controlled this outlet:

NOTE: It's possible the red and black (or the two whites) are in the wrong vertical order, since I took this pic after I'd already removed the receptacle.

At any rate, if I keep the receptacle as it is, the one to the right (that I replaced) works.  If I put a red or black (and a single neutral/white) on a new receptacle (that only has two terminals) and cap the leftover hot and leftover neutral, then that receptacle works, but the one to the right does not.  So the one to the right is "downstream", right?

My question is: Do I need to pigtail the red+black and pigtail the two whites, plug them in to the new receptacle to get it everything to work?  Or is there something else I should do?

Thanks!


texts: What is the best way to clean a brick paver patio?

texts:
Looking for ideas on how to best clean a brick paver patio.

Background:
I had a brick paver patio installed three years ago.  The following year I had it sealed (not sure what product was used) with two coats of sealer.

The patio surely needs a good cleaning.  I have lots of trees and foliage falls and stains the patio.  There are a few places where weeds are starting go grow between pavers.  There is decent drainage but a few areas have dirt accumulated on top of the pavers.

I'm thinking of having my vinyl siding power washed and was wondering if the pavers could also get power washed.  I worry the power washing will dig out the sand between the bricks.  Power washing paver patio a good idea?


texts: Equalizing upstairs and downstairs temperatures when A/C is on

texts:
Our A/C unit is in the attic in an unfinished area on the second floor. The A/C thermostat is in the finished area on the other side of the wall from the unit. As expected, the the second floor is generally several degrees warmer than the downstairs and we have the A/C thermostat set at what is for us a comfortable 76 degrees. It appears to be working as expected, but while the upstairs is kept at 76 degrees, the downstairs is generally about 5 degrees colder.

Would a simple solution be to partially close some (all?) of the downstairs A/C vents help to raise the temperature there - I would experiment by gradually making small changes? Or would partially closing the vents in any way hamper the efficient running of the A/C?

Thanks.


texts: Can I move my furnace room ventilation intake closer to my furnace?

texts:
I live in a 3 story townhouse with a garage in the basement. Off the side of the garage is our furnace room. The ventilation and exhaust for the furnace goes to the roof. For ventilation (air coming in) I have a straight which opens in the far corner of the Furnace Room, which the furnace sits in the middle of. Currently there is about 4ft of distance between the furnace and the ventilation pipe opening. The furnace room is almost airtight to the garage.

For another project,(to gain room in a closet on the third floor) I would like to move the ventilation pipe so that it opens into the furnace room directly over the furnace. I'd like to do this without cutting a new hole in my roof. So would I be creating any airflow issues if I put a bend into the pipe, and have it open within a foot of the foot print of the furnace. It would have 3 ft of vertical distance between the furnace and the intake.

If the distance is an issue. Could I put another bend in the pipe, in the furnace room, so that it would exit the ceiling directly above the furnace, but continue the pipe to near the same location as it currently exits the ceiling?

If I am over thinking this please tell me.


texts: How can I tidy up a hole in a plaster ceiling rose?

texts:
I have a pretty old plaster ceiling rose with the lighting wires coming out of a pretty ugly hole that I want to tidy up.

What are my options for neatening this up?

The area around the hole is concave and doesn't have a lot of room for maneuver.


texts: What are these male sockets called, and what are they used for?

texts:
This has taken me an embarrassingly long time to figure out, but how the heck do male sockets work? Or, what are these different tools called?

A socket wrench is usually male. A socket usually has two female ends:

But I also have some of these male sockets. It also looks like socket extensions suffer from the same problem:

Are there female socket wrenches? How would I know which type I need?

Or, for the real-world example that actually inspired this question:

(ignore the fact that those are flex-sockets)


texts: How to remove a shelf fastener with a round head and no slot

texts: I have some shelving in my closet and it's screwed into the wall with fasteners that look like this (see image). It's a smooth circle and doesn't have any type of hole of slot on top. Is this a screw? If so, what kind of screw is this and how do i get it out? I want to take this shelving down!


texts: Prevent Portable AC from tripping breaker

texts:
I live on the top floor of an apartment in Southern California and it doesn't have central AC. I have a portable unit (11.4 amp, 115 V, 1310 W, 60 Hz) and it keeps tripping my breaker. I don't have access to the breaker box (I think they are in the basement), so I have to call emergency maintenance to fix it (it's always tripped after hours).

My apartment manager is so terrible that I would be better off without her. I can't ever reach her in person or via phone. I leave messages and she never returns them. I submit work orders and they are never completed. The only success I've had is contacting tenant relations with the management company.

They are dragging their feet on fixing this issue and I am staying on their case because I believe that this is a safety issue. Not su much because I NEED AC, but because it shouldn't be tripping. The only thing on this circuit is the AC unit and... I really doubt that they have me on 10 amp breakers, especially given that I have a fridge.

Anyway, the reason for this back story is I want to know if there is a way to shut off the power at the outlet. Is there a device that would go between the plug of the AC unit and the outlet that could cut off the unit if it draws more than a specified amount of electricity? I really don't want to push things too far with management and make an enemy of the property manager, but I also want AC.

Also worth noting, I've plugged my 10 amp vacuum into the outlet and it hasn't shorted. I don't know if I have anything more demanding than 10 amp, other than the fridge.


texts: Foundation cracks in new home construction North Texas

texts:
I am currently building a house in north Frisco and I noticed a some cracks from the middle of the foundation and they go down to the side as see in the pictures. I have not yet contacted the builder as I am trying to get more info on the issue to be able to respond. Are these common and should I be alarmed? I had scheduled a private inspector for the pre sheetrock inspection and I may have to schedule an inspection for this as well. Thank you all in advance!

Other pictures: https://ibb.co/8dwsDwz
https://ibb.co/qCv2Lfs
https://ibb.co/7KjZKmb
https://ibb.co/pdF63vf
https://ibb.co/KLj8vrB
https://ibb.co/X2nTgjR
https://ibb.co/SxDJCXV
https://ibb.co/9HQLRh3


texts: Annual KWh usage of electric ignition on gas water heater

texts: I'm shopping for a new gas water heater and looking at possibly purchasing a more efficient version with electric ignition.  However, I'm curious as to whether some of the savings will be offset by the electric usage.  Does anyone know how many standby watts (or estimated annual KWh) are used by the electric ignition?  The specific model I'm considering is linked here, but I am interested in anyone's measurements for similar type of water heaters.


texts: Can I connect a cord and a GFCI outlet box to another GFCI outlet to power a pump?

texts:
I have a gfi receptacle I am plugging a drop cord
Into it and running it to a box with a switch and gfi receptacle in it.
I am plugging a pump into this gfi.
Will this work


texts: How to prevent mold in ceiling below upstairs bathroom

texts:
TLDR;
Had previous mold issues in kitchen ceiling due to frequent leaks from upstairs bathroom.
Source of leaks resolved to the best of our ability, but long term permanent fix probably some years out.
Are there any ways we can mitigate the risk of future mold growth (from now infrequent spills) in the closed space that would allow us to close up the hole in kitchen ceiling?
Background information:
Shortly after moving in to our home last year, we had a problem with water escaping from the upstairs bathroom causing mold in the kitchen ceiling below. This was primarily from a deteriorated gasket on the tub overflow and a smaller leak in the old drain pipes, but also from water spilling onto the floor from the tub/shower due to people leaving the shower curtain partially open, or from excessive movement with a full tub.
The damaged ceiling drywall has been removed, leaving about a 2' x 2' hole in the kitchen ceiling, and I  also (while searching for the source of the water) cut a about a 1' x 2' foot hole in a bedroom closet wall which the pipes for the shower run through. These have remained open since December.
What I've Done:

The mechanical sources of water have been repaired or replaced.
The kids have been retrained on the proper use of shower curtains and the importance of not causing waves while taking a bath which has greatly decreased the incidence of water on the floor.
I've re-caulked the floor around the tub which has lessened the impact of minor infractions of bathroom etiquette.

Even with these improvements we still get the occasional very large spill which results in water dribbling into the kitchen. These happen roughly every other month. The more recent ones since the re-calking occur when water gets further from the tub and finds a crack in the old plastic tiles, and thus not directly above the existing hole in he kitchen. The water instead flows along the top of the drywall to the hole before dribbling out.
Despite the (now infrequent) water issues, we've not had any additional mold problems. I suspect the open holes in the ceiling and closet wall have provided enough airflow to allow whatever is getting wet to dry in a reasonable time.
I'm thinking short of getting rid of the kids (which we can't do for reasons...), the only real solution would be a drain in the floor near the tub to collect the spills before they find an uncontrolled path into the floor. I'm not really comfortable with doing that myself, and the we are avoiding having professionals in to work on the house for non-emergency issues at present.
We would like to close up the hole in the kitchen ceiling.
Is there something we can do to repair the hole in the kitchen ceiling while still mitigating the risk of moisture buildup in that closed space?


texts: Will my electrical sub panel handle a HVAC load

texts:
I have an old, small house where electrical was updated about 20 years ago.

Description of electrical hook up:
I have the main power coming into the meter, with a panel box adjacent to the meter. It splits: one supply via a dual-pole (correct terminology?) 60 amp breaker to the garage sub panel  and another supply via a dual-pole 60 amp breaker to the house sub panel. This house sub panel is fed by a thick wire (writing on the wire states "aa 8030 type se xhhw-2 style R... 2 AWG" and also says 4 AWG. The house sub-panel is rated for 125 Amps. There is currently a 50A dual pole, and various other breakers feeding circuits throughout the house. See below picture. The dryer, washer, and water heater are in the garage.

I am updating the labeling to match the circuits. There is possibly an unused circuit breaker as well (the ?). There are also two empty slots in the box.

Also, I know there is some rust on the box. This is not from rain, but rather heavy humidity.

Question:
Can I hook up a split AC unit to this box? The unit states a 20 amp 220V breaker (so 20 amp dual pole?)

Updated photo of the data sheet for the panel below:


texts: Swimming pool filters clogging with a lot of organic matter

texts:
I currently have a high capacity cartridge filter setup for an in-ground pool. Due to high organics (15 pine trees along the border of my property that are directly over the pool), I've found the cartridge filter filters really well but has to be cleaned every 2-4 days. Additionally, cartridges don't clean well. You can use a cleaner to clean them, but that requires 24 hours soaking during which time you aren't filtering. All in all, I find I have to order new cartridges every 1-2 months during the season, which gets expensive. I'm now thinking of switching to a sand filter, to reduce my overall maintenance and ongoing costs. Is this recommended?

Details:

Maine (short swim season)
1hp pump
16'x32' pool estimated 24,000 gallons
Hayward c9002 filter - est. 43,000 gallon turnover/8hrs


texts: Considering replacing blown cellulose on attic floor with open cell spray foam. Should I just leave well enough alone?

texts:
EDIT WITH NEW COMMENTS/QUESTION:
Begin edit/
Ok...a few thoughts based on your replies:

1) I totally agree that the insulation guy is selling something.  Roger that.  At the same time, the GC I've worked with in the past agrees with the insulation guy, and he's not in on this project at all.

2) Yes, this isn't the main source of dust in the house, but I CAN see dust coming down around some of the can lights.  I also see more dust in rooms near where the registers blow out air, so it's likely some comes from there, no?

3) Re: hiring a maid.  Indeed, that's an option.  However, prices here are around $100 for a visit (up to $150).  At once every other week, that's $2600+ a year.  I would break even there in two years (maybe and a couple of months).  Then I'd be spending more that way.  Plus - maybe someone comes over sometimes already :)

4) I've had the bid upped from r30 to r40.  That way I'm keeping almost the same r, while adding
a) air sealing properties
b) the foam would be sprayed to cover the duct work and the little board room the furnace is in, bringing the furnace and all duct work into the envelope of the house for the first time.

5) Both the GC I've worked with and the insulation guy recommend against spraying the underside of the roof, due to the fact that it is shingle.  They both say that it will make the roof rot faster.

Based on all this: do you think this is crazy or counterproductive?

My main concern is that, by creating an air barrier to the attic, I'll be preventing moisture from leaving the house and therefore increase the chance of mildew or mold inside the house.  Is that realistic at all, or no?

Thanks so much!

/end edit

My wood frame and stucco home with cedar shingle roof is almost 100 years old.  We live near Chicago (Zone 5).  We have blown cellulose on the attic floor, ~r45.  A furnace with duct work is in the attic (there was no other place to add a needed zoned furnace), in a small room with some rigid foam board.  The duct work was sealed as carefully as possible and is covered in some cellulose.

About 5 years ago, there was too much moisture in the attic.  After cleaning, we applied mildew resistant paint, and we added several vents with a fan on a timer and on a temperature switch.  No issues since then.

Our house gets dusty (either that or my cleanliness standards are too high).  I suspect some comes from the blown cellulose in the attic or the dense pack in the walls.  Most probably comes from the outdoors.

I am considering having the r45 blown cellulose on the attic floor removed and replaced with r30 open cell spray foam (ocSF).  Is this crazy?  A recommended technician says that we will be better off with the foam due to its air sealing properties.  Plus he can better insulate the ducts and small furnace room with the ocSF.

Would replacing the blown cellulose with ocSF reduce dust in the house?
Would it make moisture problems more or less likely in the future?
Would it reduce or increase our energy costs?
Are there other concerns I am not considering?


texts: What are the requirements on buried propane lines?

texts:
I haven't been able to find online references to the rules, and I don't own a code book.

We have a 300 gallon propane tank, with 5/8" copper line going to a standby generator and into the house for a boiler and range. All installed at the same time about 4 years ago when the house was built.

I recently had my propane tank moved about 10' so we can add on to our garage. The gas company originally told me I needed to replace all of my lines because it's a code violation to bury couplings with copper piping.

In an effort to avoid digging up ~50' of line, I called the propane contractor who did the original install 4 years ago. (I was referred to this contractor by someone I trust and who should know that he's qualified.) He said the gas company was using an old code book, that they were incorrect. He came and extended my line, which I backfilled, and called out the gas company's lift truck to move the tank.

When they came out to do the move, they pointed out multiple violations with the installation:

buried couplings, 5/8" to 5/8", including a tee going to the generator
the new coupling he put in -- to be buried -- was black iron (which seems like a bad idea even to me who knows very little about this stuff)
the coupling going from 5/8" to the 3/8" line heading into the 2nd stage regulator at the garage was buried, including several feet of the uncoated 3/8" line
buried uncoated copper (it's supposed to be plastic coated copper?)

So in the end I had to do all the digging and pay the gas company to replace my lines. I also have this bill from the contractor that I need to have refunded.

Where can I find references, preferably chapter and verse, to code requirements so that I have some leverage with him?

If it matters, I'm in New Hampshire (USA). (And no, my town doesn't have any local code enforcement.)


texts: How to remove old plastic pool deck sleeves. 1 1/4" hole in concrete. Sleeve is 4" deep. Broken at the top, no flange left on top.


texts: What does a manifold do in an underfloor heating (UFH) system and why do they cost do much?

texts:
I am trying to understand what the manifold does in a UFH system.   It seems to just be an overpriced collection of T joins connect in a row with a basic valve on each.

What am I missing?


texts: How do I manage possibly lead containing paint flakes?

texts:
House built in 70s
It has been repainted 2-3 times since then
There's an area of 2 square meters of flaking paint in my bedroom. Fine dust of it right below :(
Concerned about lead
Limited money

I know that in order to repaint over it I would have to scrape the paint somehow (following scary containment strategies wrapping stuff etc) but this question is not about that. I want to stop the possible lead contamination from flakes turning into dust and I don't care if I end up with ugly patches of missing paint. Should I just pull the flakes by hand or will I end up worse? On the other hand, even if these flakes are left on their own they will turn into dust anyway. If I encased the area in ugly plastic wrap would it make flaking worse?


texts: How should I connect two beams to a post at a corner?

texts:
I'm constructing a 15'x20' screened porch. I've completed work up to the footings, posts, ledger, and joists. I'm now ready to install 4x4 posts around the perimeter which will hold 2x4 bottom plate, two 2x8 to form the header beam, and a 2x4 top plate.

My question is two-fold. First, what is the best height of the posts for an open feel? I'm guessing 8' posts should work for a screened porch but I'm not sure if this is the industry standard or not.

Second, I'm not sure how to install the bottom plate and 2x8 header beam in the corner of the porch. When installing the main support posts and beams I was working with 6x6 posts and was able to notch them and place the beams in the notches. However, with the 4x4 posts for the roof I'm not going to have the adequate spacing for notching.

I have seen some examples where the corners will have two posts butted together so is can fully support the header beam coming from each direction. Not sure this is best or not.

I've searched all over for a diagram example but haven't been able to find one. Any help you can provide is appreciated.

UPDATE

This question is for rough framing that will be covered with finishing materials. I'm using Simpson strong ties for the post base and non-corner post tops. This framing is to support a gabled roof with a 4/12 pitch.


texts: Ceiling Fan and separate ceiling light fixtures

texts:
I just replaced my ceiling fan in the kitchen (has no lights). I also have a separate light fixture.  Before replacing the ceiling fan, I would turn on one switch to turn the fan on or off, and the second switch to turn the lights on or off.  After replacing the ceiling fan (has no lights) when I turn on the light switch (dimmer) the lights dim and all is good.  However when I turn on the fan switch the lights automatically come on and I cannot dim them. My previous fan did not have lights.

I wired everything it seems as it was before, however I now have this problem with the fan switch?  Any suggestions or a proposed wiring diagram.


texts: HVAC: adding a C wire for Nest thermostat

texts:
Just installed a brand new gas boiler, want to keep using my existing Nest thermostat (they are compatible according to Nest).

Current system only has two wires: Rh and W

Nest is designed to steal current from Rh to charge, but here is my problem: the potential between Rh and W is only 22V, and the Nest requires at least 24V. I get a no power reading on the thermostat.
I know I can add a switching relay, as the furnace instructions state – but here's my idea and I hope somebody can tell me if this would work or not (I don't want to damage anything):
The potential between Rh and ground is about 24V; there is about 1.5V on the W wire. Could I simply run a C wire and connect it to ground (or the the C terminal on the transformer inside the boiler)? Or do I really need to spring for a switching relay.
Attaching the schematic from the manual on connecting thermostat.


texts: 40 amp range outlet as extension cord source

texts:
I am running a few tools in my temporary workshop in my large balcony: air compressor, couple of space heaters, router, circular saw and some other tools. I have one wall outlet rated at 15 amps and clearly it is not sufficient.

So I am thinking of running a 10 AWG romex cable, 25' length, from the 40 amp cooking range outlet about 20 ft away. Now this will have two hots, one ground and one neutral. I am going to avoid using a power strip/surge protector and just wire 4 20 amp wall outlets in parallel. Now the outlets have two inputs for the hots and the inputs are connected via a brass plate, now I am guessing I will connect one hot to each of the two inputs, do I keep the brass plate or take it out? By taking out the brass plate I am hoping each of the 3 prong sublet on the outlet will be able to provide 20 amps separately?

Also, if I wire the 4 outlets in parallel will each of them give me 40 amps or will I only get 40 amps in total from all the outlets on this extension combined? Also, this might be a 220V since it is a 40 amp breaker, will check with a multimeter but if it is, how can I step down to 110V so I can plug in my tools safely?


texts: Tempered Glass Tabletop - Safe dimensions for a given base?

texts:
Sorry for the confusing title. We have a circular table (an old etched wheel) that is 3ft in diameter. It also has 4 rubber spacers along the diameter. I want to get a tempered glass tabletop for it. Our old one broke when someone placed a hot dish on it. The old glass had around 3ft 6inch diameter and about quarter of an inch thick.

My question is this:
Would a 12mm thich, 4ft diameter tempered glass tabletop be safe?

Our table would end up having a 6 inch glass ring around our current table. Would that be safe for dining purposes?

Here is a photo of the table and a photo of the rubber stoppers.


texts:
I have a single 6" can light which isn't good enough for our needs in our entrance hallway. I want to know if there is a way to convert it to a track light and that way attach multiple lights to the track?

I tried googling, and I found things like

but it seems that suitable for changing a recessed can to a pendent... we want a track.

I saw this,

(or these http://www.bellacor.com/track-lighting.htm) but I don't like the design(s).

I'm after something a bit more simple/sleek like

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/89/898b12d5-9ef9-47c5-8d2a-dd5974d1a8d8_1000.jpg

Can I get a 6" recessed can adapter that is universal for track lights? Do they exist?

P.S Even better would be 6" recessed can to a track light extension (drop the height of the track 6" from the ceiling).


texts: Is 50 amp subpanel allowed in Seattle area?

texts:
I am in Seattle area and planning to add a subpanel right next to main panel in garage. For my purposes, a 50 amp subpanel work would fine.
As my main panel is completely full, I would either need to move some circuit over to new subpanel or I was thinking of replacing an existing 30 amp 2 pole breaker with quad breaker with 50/30 combo. Then I can use the 50 to feed the subpanel.
My question is if the 50 amp breaker feeding a subpanel allowed in this area? I was planning to use 6/3 wire and 125 amp subpanel with 12/24 circuits.
Thoughts/suggestions?