texts:
In my new home, there is a cast iron claw foot bathtub with poorly attached feet. The feet are slightly wobbly and one of them falls off any time the tub moves at all. So far it has not fallen out with anyone in the tub, but it fell off several times while I was working on the drain line. What is the best way to permanently attach these feet so that they will not unexpectedly fall off?

The weight of the tub seems to be the main thing holding them on now. The pictures below show that it has a locating and fastening feature on the bottom of the tub, but there is nothing that securely clamps to that. I can remove and reattach them without loosening the screws. When I have my wife lift up on the tub I can tug them into place and the leg pops in with a loud snap. The 3 better legs can be removed by working them back and forth enough. The worse leg can be removed just by lifting up on the tub and wiggling it a bit.


texts: What is the type & size or part-number of this breaker terminal allen screw?

texts:
I need to insert the wires directly at the bottom of it. Where can I find two extra terminal screw (allen type)? Is there standard size for this or proprietary (General Electric TQD22125)? What is its size?

This is another picture in the net for the GE TQD Series:


texts:
I have an exterior wall on one side of a brick building that appears to be stucco or cement. Some of it is starting to come off in sheets. Basically, there is one layer, maybe the thickness of orange peel that can easily be snapped off at the edge. Behind it is something that is somewhere between the texture of sand and sandstone that crumbles readily when touched.

I am wondering:

is repairing the wall a straightforward DIY project
should I be worried about this "sand" behind the outer layer of cement/stucco
do I need to scrape away this entire layer then put on a new layer, or can I just repair sections of the wall?
I assume I'm going to want to use some combination of concrete/cement and sand for the wall. Is there a recommended mixture to use for this?
The wall to be repaired is very high -- it extends the entire height of the house which is 3 stories; are there safe ways to do this higher up? Would I need to set up scaffolding or could I work from a ladder?

I'm guessing pictures would be helpful but right now I'm in the early stages of determining whether this is even a DIY project. If it really isn't possible to answer without pictures I'll try to take some; please let me know what specific pictures to take.


texts: Is there a functional difference between a $200 freestanding grill and a $2000 built-in grill?

texts:
We are planning on potentially building a budget outdoor kitchen in our pool area.  As part of that process we'd like to add a nice-looking built-in grill.  However, upon starting to price-shop online I'm finding that built-ins seem to come with a pricetag approximately 5x - 10x that of a similarly-featured free-standing grills from a big box store.  I now find myself wondering if it makes more sense to build an alcove for a freestanding grill (our $200 freestanding grill is finally giving out on us after 12 years).

Is there an actual functional or reliability difference to these extremely expensive grills that will make up for the cost difference (other than the built-in appearance)?  Or is this much like wedding cakes or wedding photography, where the word "wedding" (or "built-in") quintuples the price for an otherwise similar product?  My experience has been that such large price premiums are usually justified by something, but without knowing what that 'something' is it's difficult to determine if it's worth the cost for us.


texts: I am taking on replacing my utility sink with a wall mounted sink.  I know that I have to have support and plan to open the drywall to install backing (fortunately, I have a stud on the left side for hanging, only requiring me to back the right side.  The sink weighs 55 lbs.  I do not plan to use legs and want to know if lag screws will be solid enough to hold the sink to the wall. I originally bought brackets (picture attached), but I am unsure that I need them.  Any help is appreciated.


texts: Siemens Panel Main Circuit Breaker Teardown

texts:
Ready for use:

What do you usually put in the screw nut so it can't loosen? I'm afraid all purpose general glue (alongside breaker in picture) may not stop it. If I put epoxy. It may be unremovable and can't screw it if needed in the future. Would a single mighty bond glue compound stop it (but this is supposed to be put between two materials). Any other idea? It's 1/8 in size and couldn't find any tiny locknut for it.

After teardown of the Westinghouse Breaker and handling it for a day at office during break removing the parts and putting them back again and again. It gave me courage to finally initiate teardown of the Siemens Load Center main circuit breaker (especially when no one can offer any clue what could be wrong with it and no teardown of it anywhere in the net).

I spent more than an hour in the evening removing the 4 mini-bolts manually so in case the defective is not mechanical or serious, I could still use it (the casing is not glued and there are only the 4 mini pins holding all of them together). So it's not technically a teardown but repair. I found out the problem. First youtube video of the internal parts and illustrations:

https://youtu.be/oQHDxviWRI4

It's just a typical circuit breaker internal components. Nothing unique. The source of the problem why you need to push it a bit more for the latching to be made is due to housing dimension tolerance. Compared to other breakers where the latching is made 75%. In the Siemens. It is 90% before the spring hatches it to make full contact. So slight housing misalignment need you to push it a bit more (and it is only in one of the breaker (remember it is two pole so has 2 separate unit). No problems with the bi-metallic strips or catch mechanism.

I assembled it back and will put it in service since nothing wrong with it. I checked dozen times the mechanical parts and orientation is same as original (with many photos taken in different stages of the teardown. My question is. What do you call this tiny pin-bolt? I can replace it with 4 thin long screws locking the breaker in place (by gluing the 4 nuts so they won't loosen or even epoxy it, isn't it?)  What did you do?

old message:

I just made teardown of a Westinghouse breaker and became so familiar with all the mechanisms I can take all things apart and assemble the inside.

Using the Westinghouse breaker teardown as sample. I couldn't extrapolate what is wrong with the Siemens.

I couldn't return the item. It costs $45. And a new one cost $85 shipped. So I need to know if what could possibly be wrong with the Siemens. Doesn't it use a standard latching mechanism? Any illustration of what mechanism it could be using?

Is this really defective?

In this even newer video.

https://youtu.be/tCqGNRzIMO0

I can consistently make it stay latched by pushing it after it is in the on position. Listen to the "click" after I turned it on (in first and second attempt, increase the volume of your speaker so you can obviously hear the click). In third attempt, I didn't push it so it returned. At 4th try I pushed it with a click and it stayed latched. Can't you consider it as tolerance? What mechanism inside the breaker is exactly involved, any idea?

earlier update.

I found out you need to slightly push the lever in so it can stay in on position. See this youtube video:

https://youtu.be/fTo2acI93XM

In the first and second attempt. I didn't push the lever so it returns to OFF position. In the third attempt. I need to push it gently down so it can be in On position. Is this normal, or is the subpanel breaker slightly defective? I have handled many other breakers and it doesn't have this behavior.

original post.

I bought a new subpanel, and the main breaker is already defective (brand Siemens). It can't be switched open (even isolated on piece of paper like in the picture). It returned to close position immediately. Usually what are the parts inside that get broken easily even without any use? Anyone has tear down such to see what is defective inside?


texts: 14 Ga stranded wire bathroom fan/light on 20 Amp circuit?

texts:
I'm know this topic has been covered thousands of times but I can't find a good explanation to what I'm looking at.
I am putting in a basement bathroom, I'm wiring it now on a 20 Amp circuit per code, and today my bathroom fan and vanity lights came. They have #14 stranded wire in them. I have #12 wire from the breaker. Can I wire these lights into my circuit? I guess what has me stumped is why they would build these units with smaller wire when a bathroom is required to be protected by a 20 amp circuit.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you


texts: Why is there an oily substance on the connector in my circuit breaker?

texts:
I have a circuit breaker panel with 2 supply wires (2.5-4mm2 400V). I noticed that there is some oily substance dripping out of the supply contact of my circuit breaker. What is this substance and is it dangerous? The circuit breaker does not trip.
Because I live in a rather old building where the heating does not work well I often rely on electrical heaters, so I use much electricity, but the circuit breaker never trips. It is also a model without residual current circuit breaker.
It is more or less this model...


texts: I went to close the AC vent in the apartment we're renting and saw this. Is this mold or just many years of dust buildup? If it is mold, can I safely just remove the vent and wash it?


texts: Can I use a floating wood floor in a half bath?

texts: Will a floating wood floor work well in a half bath?  If so I have another question.  Should the toilet flange go over the floor or should the floor be cut around it?  Thanks.


texts: Remove paint from concrete floor (indoors)

texts:
I'm trying to find a solution to prep my concrete floors (slab) for tile.

A contractor I had hired to remodel my home did an outstanding painting job -- so well that he managed to cover most of my floor in kills paint/primer that is now peeling and is a lovely mess to clean up. What a nice guy :)

Anyways, I'm looking at various solutions mentioned on Various Google search results. It seems like paint remove is a good way to go but requires hosing / pressure washing afterwards. Unfortunately this is my dining and living rooms and I don't believe I can contain the water.

Some mention using a grinder but I feel like the paint would just cake on it and it wouldn't be very affective.

Any suggestions?


texts: Can I repair water damage under the kitchen sink with a sintra panel?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How can I repair water damage under the kitchen sink?

I found out that our kitchen water connection had somehow loosened up and was leaking water on the floor undernieth the sink.  Now the particle board cabnet floor is warped quite a bit.  I was thinking about cutting it out and placing a Sintra® material as a new floor.

Does anyone have any suggestions how to do this and if it's a good idea to replace the main plywood too.  Or only replace the the main floor wood if it's really fried.


texts: Should I install a plastic vapor barrier below the insulation between my ceiling and attic floor?

texts: I'm redoing the insulation in my attic the floor/ceiling cavity and then the ceiling of the attic. I have 2 rolls of plastic that is 15 ft by 150 ft just sitting around -- I've had it for years. Is it a good idea to put this in between the ceiling and the insulation then the floor on top without a barrier so that the insulation is free to release any moisture through the floor into the attic? Or is the plastic not a good idea in this situation?


texts: Controlling ceiling fan and light with a single pole switch using caseta for apple home control

texts: How can I control a ceiling fan / light which currently is controlled by a single light switch and pull chains using a caseta switch to integrate with the home app on the iphone


texts: How do I secure the shower valve without removing tile?

texts:
The plumber didn't secure the new valve to the frame, so the shower valve and head were left loose and it is wiggling. The new tile is completed and we do not want to redo it.

What is the best way to secure the valve and shower head?


texts: What's the best way to reduce odor in my well water?

texts: Updating 60+yr old house, which has a 300 ft well , it has bad smelling water. How to fix cheapest & best way. This house was built by my stepfather, he said they dug til he say white sand . I don't know where to start. Test water before pipes and after.  There's got to be bacteria, fungus , somewhere. It stops smelling if ran about 10 minutes or so. Its so strong tho, it makes me scared to drink much less using it period is iffy to me! Thinking new pipes were the reason, put in New & still smells just as bad. Bathroom Also has stone shower that wasn't sealed or anything to keep mold or mildew at bay. Do I need to replace it all or is there a way to save it? Its the newest of the updated things but could be 5- 10 years since its been exposed to the same water from well. Nothing major there tho I removed silicone around edge of tub & scrubbed majorily, but am asking before I tear it out to be safe. Also can the water have any harmful reactions to humans or animals if they've used this water for prolonged years? ~ Tonya


texts: Is it OK to use an oversized swamp/evaporative cooler?

texts:
Are there any disadvantages to getting, say, a swamp cooler that is twice the CFM you "officially should need."?

Sometimes when I buy them used I can't line up the sizes quite right.


texts: Do I need outdoor-rated cable for an exterior receptacle?

texts:
I'm going to install an exterior receptacle by running a non-metallic (NM-B) cable from an interior receptacle.  I will be installing it just on the outside wall right behind the interior receptacle. The cable will exit through a hole in the exterior stucco and into a metal box made for outdoors. Then I will install an exterior rated receptacle with a receptacle box.
I will use duct seal (kind of like a gray putty) to seal around where the stucco hole meets the exterior box hole. I will also take the proper precautions to caulk the perimeter where the exterior box meets the stucco.
Will I need an outdoor/exterior (UF-B) cable to run to the outdoor receptacle?


texts: How can I repair my damaged kitchen counter?

texts:
I made a stupid mistake and placed a hot pan on the kitchen counter top directly, which made a small burn and a bigger bump filled with air that cracked after a little while.

I don't know much about kitchens, and I can't tell what the material is.

Is there a way to fix this?


texts: I am a hvac tech, but my question is I have 2awg stranded and my plug is 6awg, will it matter much if I cut some strands to fit my plug? the plug is 60amp 250vac for a piece of kitchen equipment if the matters.


texts: How to make a wooden box with a hidden lid

texts:
My aim is to make a wooden box that doesn't look openable, such that a cursory inspection and handling would not give away that it had a lid at all. A sort of diversion safe that will be placed somewhere it looks like a bit of boxing that covers a pipe.

I'm new to wood working, so I'm not sure how to accomplish this. Is this possible?


texts: my contractor cut the laminate boards too short leaving about 1/8" gap in some places and installed them. Any way to make them looking good?


texts: How do I repair my partially rotted subfloor?

texts:
I pulled up the tile in my bathroom and discovered that the sub-floor was partially rotted near the bathtub, under the toilet. Based on the tile/mortar, it looks like whoever did this floor last mortared over/into the already damaged subfloor to cover up the fact that it was damaged. It looks, from what I can tell, that the damage goes under the wall.

My questions are:

What's the ideal way to cut out the damaged section? The parts I can get to, I would just use my circular saw with the depth set properly, but for the edges along the tub insert and the wall, (especially the tub edge, which runs perpendicular to the joists), how would I get close enough? I've heard reciprocating saw and toe-kick saw suggested by a few people I know.
Do I need to worry about the damaged subfloor that goes under the wall? If so, how would I go about removing/replacing the damaged subfloor there?


texts: Does light fixture itself impact dimmer compatibility or the bulbs?

texts:
I have read numerous dimmer switch instructions say compatible with led lights and then also led bulbs saying dimmable. So my question is do only the bulb and switch need to be compatible or does the light fixture itself impact compatibility too and should say if dimmable compatible?
I ask this because my ceiling fan currently has older non-led bulbs and I upgraded to LED bulbs. Now I am thinking of adding a LED dimmable switch but I am curious if the fixture itself needs to be dimmable compatible or not.
Also when two devices are not compatible say led bulbs with non led compatible switch then what happens (potential fire or overheating of dimmer?). I have some old dimmers in this house and the led bulbs seem to work fine but I’m sure these are pretty led dimmers so I’m surprised it worked.


texts: What is the best way to secure a set of folding attic stairs?

texts:
My company is opening a new office in an existing office building. While inspecting the office prior to move-in, I noticed that the attics between all suites in the building are open to each other. Someone from another suite could easily gain access to ours by just pushing open the folding attic stairs.

What is the best way to secure the folding attic stairs? I considered using a padlock, but the ceiling is too high to open a padlock using a ladder. Do they make a lock attached to the pull cord?


texts: What type of hose do I need for Propane dryer?

texts: I converted my gas dryer over to propane, but I am trying to find out if I can use my older gas line or what type of propane line do I need to buy?


texts: Wire size to feed a 95 amp pool panel 90' from home

texts: I'm installing a 95 amp pool panel 90' from a 200 amp panel inside my house. What wire and breaker size should I feed it with?


texts: Is there a low temperature thermostat that is simulatneous switching for two electric garage heaters?

texts:
I want to connect two QMark MUH108 10kw electric garage heaters to a single thermostat. According to the spec sheet, this unit uses 24 V control.

It was previously asked about a low temp thermostat for an electric garage heater and the Honeywell CT50K1028/E was mentioned (which is your basic low voltage thermostat) that goes down to 35 F.

The M600S from Marley was suggested as a simultaneous switching thermostat. The temp range for it is 50deg F - 80deg F. I only want to keep the garage above freezing (at a cabin in the mtns) so 50 deg F is too high for the low end range.

Are there other options like the M600S with lower temp range or is it possible (or advisable) to connect each heater to a Honeywell CT50K1028/E?


texts: I have a window AC unit rated at 115V 6.8 amps. If I wanted to plug the AC into a wall outlet, how do I determine if the wiring in the wall can safely handle the current. The wall outlet is a 3 prong US outlet and is 120V. However, if it can't be wired to the outlet, what would I need to run wiring 100ft to the connect it to the breaker?


texts:
I am trying to replace a busted Hunter ceiling fan remote.  The receiver unit from the old remote had 5 wires - live and neutral, and then 1 that was labeled "fan out", 1 that was labeled "light out", and 1 that was labeled  "common out."

The fan unit has 4 wires - 1 green wire that is capped, 1 blue wire labelled "for light", 1 black wire, and 1 white wire.

Can I use the new remote/receiver that I have and ignore the white wire (obviously capping it for safety?

Or do I need to replace the new remote receiver unit with a different one that has the third "common out" wire?

I only have a single light switch in the room.


texts: UK 220v 3 wire cord hookup to US 240v outlet

texts:
I have some equipment that was purchased in the UK that came with the power cord missing the plug (has 3 wires exposed; Brown Live, Blue Neutral & Green/Yellow Ground).  The equipment says it is 50/60Hz so that shouldn't be a problem.  My question is how do I wire a US plug to this with only 3 wires when the US needs two Live wires and a ground?  Do we just hook 120v to Brown Live and 120v to Blue Neutral and Ground to Ground or does that end up putting live back to ground on the equipment? This line in the manual has us concerned:

Ensure that the mains supply is single phase alternating current (ac) of the stated frequency (Hz), with neutral nominally at earth potential

Not sure if that quoted text is just for in the UK or ??


texts: Toaster oven makes my kitchen lights flicker

texts:
Today, I got a new toaster oven. When it's heating, my kitchen lights (plugged into an adjacent outlet) flicker/pulse.

What can I do to reduce the flickering?

If I get a power conditioner, can I put it on the power supply to the toaster oven, so that the appliance doesn't impact any other outlets in the household? It looks like power conditioners are usually intended to be used on the devices you want to shield, rather than on the device that's causing the problem; does it work both ways?

I'm in Canada, so my mains power is 120 V at 60 Hz.

Edit - more details:

New toaster oven: Breville BOV800XL "Smart Convection Oven", 1800W
Old toaster oven (no flickering problem): Hamilton Beach, convection, 1440W
Microwave on same outlet (no flickering problem): Panasonic Inverter, 1100W output, 1200W input

The new toaster oven doesn't exhibit the flickering problem if I'm toasting; only if it's heating on "bake" mode (both when the convection fan is on and off).  The lights dim when I turn the toaster oven on any mode, but on "toast" they don't flicker; they just dim and stay dim until the toaster oven shuts off.

The flickering happens around 8 Hz (but it's hard to tell for sure). I put a Kill-a-Watt meter on the lights (which were turned on), and got the following readings, but it only updates the display once per second:

Toaster off: 118.7 .. 119.2 V
Toaster on "toast": 117.1 .. 117.6 V
Toaster on "bake": 117.2 .. 117.4 V, flickers

The light fixture is mounted above the counter, not the main kitchen light fixture; it has three sockets rated for 50W each and a single on/off power switch (no dimmer control). I don't know what kind of bulbs they contain but I think they're incandescent:

It appears that no other lights are affected (ie. the overhead lights, the range hood light, or a fluorescent fixture above the sink).

I guess the toaster oven is doing some PWM thing when it's on bake? I don't know for sure, but the flickering is very distracting.

This is an old house (100 years this year, I think) but the wiring was updated within the last decade, I believe. I'm renting so it's unfeasible for me to do anything about the wiring and setup (but I suppose I could run extension cords).


texts: Portable AC Drawing 0.33 Amps Trips 15 Amp Circuit Breaker?

texts:
After about 5 min. my portable AC rated at 11.4 Amps trips the 15 Amp circuit breaker. I put a Kill-a-Watt meter on it and it was only drawing 0.33 Amps at time of the tripping.
Only other running elec. object tied in to the breaker is 'smoke alarm'.
Anyone have a fix or cause?


texts: Why won't my plugs stay put in concrete wall?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Why would plastic anchors pull out of the wall?

I have drilled holes in my concrete wall (good hard concrete) with a regular 8 mm concrete drill. They all seem like good holes and I've taken care to remove all remaining dust from the holes by blowing inside with a straw. My 8 mm plugs also go in with just the right amount of friction.

But when I start mounting the cupboard and really want to tighten the last bit, instead of just getting more secure, the plug starts creeping out of the wall! I've tried a couple of different types of concrete plugs, but they all yield the same result.

Is it a good idea to take some kind of filler material and jam it in together with the plug before mounting?


texts: How should light switches be connected with 5 black and a 2 white wires?

texts:
I am changing out some light switches and so far things went well and were straight forward with the dimmers, 3 and 4 ways I replaced. However, on my final switches I came across 2 weird light switches that did not work before but I still want to wire them the same way they were onto the new switches to have things the way they were...

Switch 1 has 1 white and 1 black on the same screw while a second black is going to the lower screw.

The other switch has 3 black wires, one goes into the switch without screw, the other to onto the 2 screws on the same side.

This leaves me totally buffeted?????

Any ideas why to do? If it's an EASY SAFE fix I would rather do it myself than have the electrician come out to charge me $200 for a 5 minute job. If it's not of course I will have an electrician come out and do what needs to be done to be safe.

Thanks a ton!


texts: Can I plug a multi-outlet adapter into a GFCI outlet?

texts:
I have a GFCI outlet in my kitchen where I would like to plug in more than two things.  I was thinking I could just add a multi-outlet adapter to one of the outlets, or maybe a short 1->3 plug extension cord for my purposes.  I'm assuming this is probably frowned upon, but would it be functional?

Specifically right now in the GFCI outlet we have a bottle warmer plugged in; I would like to add to it a small fish take filter, LED light, and a fish tank heater.


texts: Two air handlers, one furnace, and an odd control system. What's the modern equivalent?

texts:
I have 2 air handlers, each has their own AC, and each of them have a hydronic heat coil that leads to one furnace. Air conditioning works well independently, but there's some weird controls when it gets to heating both of them.
There's a board labeled WA200 that all the thermostats and air handlers are wired to. I found one on ebay, they call it "Advance System WA200 Water To Air 2 Zone Control Board Hydroair Circulator Panel." There were diagrams inside the box, but the previous electrician crossed them off and wrote "NOT APPLICABLE." It appears to have some features that turn on both the heating zone valve and the circulator pump when there's a thermostat call for heat. This magic box also attempts to control fan speed to run a different speed for heat vs cool. The old thermostat was wired to the using a B wire WA200 as if it was a heat pump. I believe the use of the B wire may have been to change the fan speed in heat mode? There's an aquastat on each hydronic coil so that the WA200 won't blow air until the coil is hot, but those were bypassed by a previous tech for a currently unknown reason.
I recently had one AC and air handler replaced, and the tech did some odd workarounds to get it working. He prefered to do all his wiring at the air handler rather than in the WA200 box as it was done previously. I don't really trust his wiring, he half-bypassed the box because he couldn't figure out how it worked and destroyed a contactor in the process. I'd like to figure out how this control system works on my own so I can either fix it or advise him on how to fix it. He does have to come back to finish up some other cleanup items soon.
I feel like the modern approach to this would be using the thermostat (Nest) to control the fan and putting a zone controller on the furnace. We can have call for heat talk to the zone controller, the nest can control the fan speed. I'm not sure how the hydronic heat aquastat comes into play in this scenario, but as I said, previous tech bypassed it anyway. Maybe that aquastat goes in series with the call for heat?
What makes sense here? How can I stop the butchering of these poor HVAC controls? Should I retain the equipment that's in place or do a full control swap out?


texts: Choosing correct dimmer for halogen bulbs

texts:
Apartment I moved into has a light with 5 halogen bulbs - rated 20W, 12V each.

I'd like to replace the current on/off switch for all of them, with a dimmer, but concerned there might be issues to be aware of.

Would something like this be safe?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XB0MQ44/ref=psdc_1938304031_t5_B001B0CD58

240V 10 Amp Single 1 Gang Light Dimmer Switch
Push On/Off with Rotary Dimming 400W/400VA
Max. Load: 400W. Min. Load: 60W. Leading edge type. Derating required with mains halogen lamps.
2 Way Switching - can be used as 1 Way
Suitable for mains/low voltage lighting in 1 or 2 way circuits

If it has a min load of 60W, what would happen if 3 of the bulbs blew - drawing just 40W.  Is this unsafe?

Many thanks.


texts: Two black wires into same terminal on light switch

texts:
I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.

My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?

To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?

Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago).  Is this a standard way to wire a house?

Thanks all!


texts:
I've been changing out the light switches in my house. None of them have been grounded even though there is a ground wire present. What would be the proper way to ground the new switches to the existing bare wires? Also how would I be able to tell if those ground wires are grounded correctly?

Here is a picture of how the switches are currently.


texts: What to use to fill a gap where the metal face of the wood burning fireplace meets?

texts: What should I use to fill a gap where the metal face of the wood burning fireplace meets the other metal below the brick? There is a 3/8" gap. It's too big to just use fire safe caulk. I would like to use something like backer rod, but i know it needs to be fire safe. There is a very cold draft coming through. Thanks!


texts: Will a curtain across a doorway significantly reduce air flow?

texts: I've got a stairway down to a basement that's wide open at the top and at the bottom. The basement gets pretty humid, so we run a dehumidifier down there, but the wide open entry undoubtedly makes the work of the dehumidifier a whole lot harder and less energy efficient. Putting a door on the stairwell isn't practical for code reasons without major reconstruction. Would a curtain across the bottom of the stairs help? It wouldn't be airtight, but would one expect a solid curtain to reduce air / humidity transfer to a degree that would matter?


texts: I need to remove a granite window sill in order to install plantation shutters.  How can this be done?  Can it be done without damaging the wall that the granite is affixed to (at the base of the window)?


texts: How can I frame this area of my basement wall around my water main?

texts:
I have started the process of framing my basement, but I've hit a bit of a snag as I'm not sure how exactly to frame around our water main. My original idea was to frame two walls (floor to joists) on each side, and fill the gap between them with a knee-wall of sorts, but I'm not sure that this would meet code.

I've created a rough but fairly accurate diagram of the area that should help.

The main enters approximately 6 ft from the floor, turns 90-degrees upward, enters a main cutoff followed by a regulator, continues to the height of the floor joists, where it turns 90-degrees again and runs perpendicular to the joists. The entire vertical assembly is less than a 1/2 inch away from the concrete wall.

I'm open to framing a vertical chase, however I've not been able to find any information on how to do this properly and to code. In addition, the water pipes run below the joists, and I do not intend to finish the ceiling at this time. I would like to avoid moving the wall out from the concrete wall, as I would like to keep as much usable space in this area as possible. I would also be okay with adding additional blocking (can this just be nailed upward into the blocking I've already added?) to lower a continuous header 1.5 inches, but it would require notching the back side with no way to add the appropriate strapping.

I would appreciate any insight in handling this framing design, and would prefer that any answers meet code (as there will be an inspection later). Thank you in advance.

Answered


texts: Is it feasible to make a sealable hole in the freezer door seal?

texts:
I want to operate a small mixer in the freezer, for churning ice cream. I can close the door over the power cord, but the door seal isn't flexible enough to enclose the power cord, so it creates a crack.

My idea is to make a small hole in the seal, for the power cord. If it is a tight fit, the cold loss during mixer operation will be minimal. But I don't plan to keep the mixer there permanently, so I'll have to seal the hole somehow.

I think that an earplug will be the best seal. It is easily removed, and once inserted, it will expand to fit the hole perfectly. The foam should be a fairly good isolator.

While it looks to me that this will work, it sounds slightly lunatic from some angles. Not being an experienced DIYer, and afraid to end up with a freezer which is constantly heated through a badly sealed hole, I want to ask you: Do you think this will work? Are there drawbacks I am missing? (Beside the freezer spending extra energy to cool a working motor, I think I can live with that). And are there better ways to do this?

update in response to ppumpkin

This is a standalone freezer, not a compartment in a fridge. It has no lightbulb or thermostat on the inside.

The mixer will only be put in the freezer for ice cream making, so it won't be there most of the time.

I have already thought of putting a socket in the freezer, caulking the hole for the power cord coming from outside. But while I can get wet-room rated extensions, the cords of premade extensions are too thick to lead through the seal. So I'll have to make the extension myself, which is much less secure than connecting the mixer to a socket outside.

The other idea was to build my own "mixer" from a 6 V DC motor and operate it from a li-ion battery. But not only is it lots of work, li-ion batteries at -18°C aren't a good idea. So I still think that connecting the mixer outside is better.


texts: When wiring a mains plug, why are the cables squeezed under the screws and not circled around?

texts:
By chance, I ran into a video about a guy ranting about mains plugs used in Britain.

In the video, he shows how they are wired as well.
So this got me intrigued and I watched a few others.

In all examples shown, flex cables' wires are:

Cut very short, and
Squeezed by screws (not cut longer and circled around the screw)

What is the reason for this?


texts: Capping a toilet where flange is in cement

texts:
I have a couple of questions with the project I am working on.  A little background.  We currently had a bathroom right when you walked in from the garage.  We never use it.  Builder of house put it in as they build the house and lived here and used garage as sales office from rest of neighborhood.  I am in the process of turning it into a mudroom with lockers.

When a removed the shower there was a fairly large hole (2' x 2') in the cement where the drain went down and into the wall which is not surprising.  What was surprising is it seems the bulk of the area under the entire bathroom 5' x 6' is excavated.  There is 3-4" cement slab with iron over the entire area so structurally I am not worried just surprised me.

On to my two questions.

How can I cap the toilet drain.  I can do the shower since there is a hole but there is no hole for the toilet.  I am worried if I cut the flange out I will not have room for a cap because of the cement.  I also need to cap the water supply as that comes up from the bottom as well.  I am adding some picture so you can see the pipes run under the slab but they are out of reach to try and get to them there and hole is too small to crawl in and get to them.
I had planned to just add some gravel and then patch the cement hole so I could put flooring over it but now since the entire area is excavated I would have to get a lot of fill.  How can I patch that hole so I can add flooring above it?

Toilet Flange

Shows where hole is in relation

Shows where drain pipe goes up into cement to flange.

Shows pipe and water supply heading towards wall.


texts:
I've had nothing but success with using Maestro dimmers on both LED and incandescent lighting for years, but recently picked up a new dimmer (MACL-153M-WH) and a pair of G7 Elko LEDs (30W total) and see a strange behavior from the dimmer.

Video to demonstrate: https://youtu.be/_fGK0vBbITU

You'll notice the light level should go to the second indicator from the top when I turn it on.  I press the button, the indicator goes to the middle but the lights on the circuit do not turn on.  Then a couple seconds later it's as though the dimmer resets, the indicator shoots up from the bottom again and the lights come up as originally expected.

The dimmer will be immediately responsive for a while once the lights have come up successfully, but if they sit off long enough the initial delay comes back.

I've tried adjusting the various settings (trim levels, on/off fade times) with no success and reset the dimmer back to factory.

I plan to try switching out the bulbs (never used G7 before) but the dimmer behavior is just generally confusing to me.

Update:

I bought another Maestro CL dimmer from a different location... same
behavior.
Bought a pair of G7 Reno bulbs, same behavior.
Ran to Home Depot and picked up a pair Phillips slim style LED bulbs, and they work perfectly.


texts: Grounding electrical sub panel in separate structure

texts:
It pains me to ask this question when there are so many similar ones out there - but I feel like I’ve read them all and still don’t have a satisfactory understanding of what the correct options are.
I have a house built in 1988.  It has 400A service and three sub panels on the structure itself.  They are all fed with 4-wire HHNG. One of those sub panels feeds a separate structure (barn) about 150’ away via underground feeder.  This feed is 3-wire HHN and is on a 60A breaker at the house.
At the barn the panel has a grounding rod and that is bound to neutral from the house.
I believe this used to be to code and is grandfathered in. I also understand it isn’t great, and hence why it’s no longer to code.
I’ve read all kinds of discussion and solutions.

Replace with 4-wire feeder and separate the G and N (which would be code for a new install)
Put a GFCI on the feed line (at the house panel?) and split G & N
Install a transformer to make it a separated service (and bond G N)
Leave it as is but understand it’s potentially hazardous?

First please let me know if I’m misunderstanding those four options?
One other complication though - the two structures are connected by a conductor....they share copper water pipes.  Seems like this could change the equation.  Can/should those pipes be used as grounding between the structures (in which case you would separate the G&N in the panel?)
I am looking to both make sure I understand the logic and make a good interim decision - in a few years we should be able to replace the feeder with 4w and just follow the current code.
Most relevant posts I’ve read are this and this one that just kept going
Edit - the current feeder is 3x#6awg THHN in 3/4” PVC Sch40 conduit.  No practical room to run a 4th in there, especially given the length (200’).
When the time comes we will eventually run 4x#2...


texts: Three-way switch circuit between house and barn - how to wire

texts:
I am in the process of wiring a new barn. We have an existing 4 conductor feed powering a sub-panel in the barn from the house.

I ran into a question while figuring out how to wire a three-way circuit between the buildings - a three way switch in the house, pulling power from an existing lighting circuit, connected to a second three way switch in the barn, which in turn feeds outdoor lights on the barn.

We have three individual 12GA conductors run along with the sub panel conductors. Ideally, I would like to use two of them for the two switched legs of the three-way circuit and use the third as an additional single pole switched circuit, also fed from the house.

Is it allowable to connect these circuits back to the neutral and ground buses in the sub panel, or do I need to use the third conductor to bring a separate neutral all the way from the house just for the three-way circuit?

If the later is the case, is it legal to have the barn three-way switch in a multi-gang box with other circuits fed from the sub panel? I realize I would need to keep the neutral for the three-way isolated from the others in the box to avoid paralleling the sub panel feed back to the house.


texts: Moving my washer and dryer will mean I'll need to move my dryer exhaust vent. How should I go about this?

texts:
I live in a two-story condo/townhouse.  My dryer is downstairs in the kitchen and I'd like to move it upstairs.  Right now, the exhaust vent runs up through the wall and under the upstairs bedroom floor before it exits through the vent in the back of the house.  Where I want to move it to will require me to move the vent to the front.

What things should I consider for this project?  I have a pretty good idea on everything else like plumbing and whatnot (much easier said than done, I know), but what about the exhaust vent?  How should I run the duct beneath the floor?  In the event that I choose to use the existing exhaust vent in the back, how long can the duct be before it loses effectiveness?  Anything details anyone can give will be appreciated.  I also know I am probably not giving enough info, but I don't know what all to ask, so I can just add on to the question as we go along.

Note: I've cleared this with the association.  All I need to do is tell them exactly how I am going to do it.


texts: Wiring for new 40 amp wall oven and cooktop

texts:
We are upgrading our wall oven and cooktop.  The old units were rated for 30 amps each and the new units require 40 amps.  We have a 200 amp main panel with one 40 amp breaker for the oven/cooktop that feeds 600 volt 3-6 aluminum wiring to a subpanel.  The subpanel currently has one 30 amp breaker feeding NM-B 10-3 to the cooktop and one 30 amp breaker feeding NM-B 10-3 to the oven.  As both the new cooktop and wall oven each require 40 amps, what is the best way to proceed?  Is the single 40 amp breaker in the main panel and the 3-6 wiring to the subpanel sufficent to meet the load demands of the new 40 amp units?

In response to the questions, the NM-B wiring can be easily replaced from the subpanel to the oven and cooktop.  Replacing the 3-6 wiring would be much more difficult, as it is routed behind walls and over drywall cielings.  The subpanel could be physically removed.  The insulation for the 3-6 is grey plastic/vinyl. I have attached a couple of photos of the wiring and subpanel. I should also add that I plan to hire an electrician to do the work, but would like to know what to expect and, if possible, run some of the wiring beforehand to reduce the labor cost.

EDIT:
At the main panel the aluminum strand attached to the bus bar in the subpanel is attached to the bus bar in the main:

EDIT:
Thanks for all the responses.  The subpanel is in the basement immediately below the kitchen floor underneath the wall oven.  The main panel is on the opposite side of the house.  I have attached additional photos of the 3-6 cable below.

The cooktop is a Kitchenaid downdraft (KCED606GBL).  The oven/microwave combo is a Bosch Series 800 (HBL8752UC).  Kitchenaid nameplate indicates 10.8 kw @240 v:
.

Bosch oven is 9.6kw @240 v:

Bosch microwave is 3400 w @ 240 v:

Additional 3-6 photos:


texts: How to correct possible subfloor l/360 deflection under live load, when basement below is finished

texts:
Installing porcelain planks 6"x 36" with 11mm thickness, in main floor Living room that was previously carpeted. House is 2 story town, 13yrs old.

Room size across W 18' x Length joist span of 11.8'(below shows end of joists are sitting directly over steel support beam, directly under in room below shows ceiling joists span of 11'4"rest on steel beam) ,S.P.F. 2x8 joists, 16"oc, cross braces. According to-Deflector Cal. is L337

Subfloor
is 5/8" OSB possibly T&G, some unevenness, dips and joint lipping more on large area on one side by patio door entry. No bounciness but does not feel as stiff as should be for large tile. Alot of squeaking and creaks even though applied several screws on all seems only lessened somewhat. I am now at this point.

I will add  1/2 or 5/8 plywood perpendicular. Then follow with a membrane like Ditra and then tile.

But advised now of possible Deflection L337 but I can not get to floor joist thru basement to sister any joists,  as room is finished ceiling. How do i accomplish this correctly. Am I on borderline deflection or do I need to do more to fix this, other than stiffen with another layer plywood running perpendicular?

Appreciate any input,
thx
Jake


texts:
The drain pipe and trap on my bathroom sink are made of plastic, and every four to six months I find that it slows down. When I disassemble it, the pipe walls are coated with maybe 1/8" of disgusting brown and black slim, probably fungal in nature. I end up having to shove paper towels through the pipes, which pushes out the slim in a stomach-churning sleeve-shaped blob.

Is there a product I can use to prevent this, or to clean it up when the drain slows?

My sink is cultured marble and the drain itself is stainless steel, so I don't want to damage them.


texts: How can I eliminate a gap in a refrigerator door gasket?

texts:
My refrigerator door gasket was torn on the bottom, so I replaced it today. The problem is that much of the new gasket is "squished" - that is, not spread as widely as the old one, so there is a gap between the new gasket and the refrigerator which I did not have with the old gasket. I put the new gasket out in the sun for a couple of hours, hoping that it would open up a bit, but it didn't help. Actually, on the top of the door, the new gasket meets the refrigerator, but on the sides there is a gap starting about half way down, and growing to about a 1/2" gap at the bottom. I took the door off the hinges, hoping to find a way to adjust the hinges, but there are no adjustments. I tried inserting a shim underneath the lower hinge, but that simply widened the gap at the bottom.
Any suggestions? Is it safe to try to bend the door in order to narrow the gap?


texts: Should I paint bathroom before installation of a new vanity?

texts: I am replacing vanity and removing wallpaper to paint.  I am currently removing the wallpaper.  Do I install the new vanity before painting or after?


texts: My cold water tap in my bath has gone from fully running to a trickle.  I have taken off the tap bit but all seems ok.  Any suggestions please?


texts: How do I keep black tile and black grout actually looking black?

texts:
I have tried what feels like every cleaner and product out there to "clean" my black tile floors but I cannot for the life of me keep it looking nice and actually black. The tile and especially the grout always has a white look to it and imo, it looks awful. I assumed it was due to maybe salt/minerals in the water used to clean it, but I even tried distilled water and a steam cleaner (multiple times) to no avail.

The only time it actually looks good is when it's wet. (see pictures for comparison). Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to keep this floor looking good?

Typical look after "cleaning" and letting it dry

What the floor looks like wet while cleaning it.


texts: Can I replace a single dedicated 20A/120V receptacle with a 20A/240V receptacle?

texts:
I have a newly-installed, 20A/120V receptacle that is wired using 12/2 copper on a single home run back to my main electrical panel.  This was to support an air conditioning unit in a section of new construction on an existing house.  Unfortunately the air conditioner actually needs a 20A/240V receptacle.

My question is, can I simply replace the single-pole breaker with a 2-pole breaker, and the receptacle with the correct style (NEMA 6-20R)?

(Clarification: there is a separate 15A branch circuit to satisfy all code requirements for normal receptacles and one of those is on this wall, therefore changing this would not leave me without the required amount of normal receptacles)


texts: Are there any NEC restrictions for wiring 220v and 110v sockets on the same dual pole breaker?

texts:
I am working on an electrical upgrade for my garage. Some equipment I have requires 20A 220V power. Other equipment only needs 15A or 20A 110V. I would like to run in from a single circuit protected by a dual pole 20A breaker.

Are there any NEC restrictions to wiring 220V and 110V outlets to the same circuit.

Here is my wiring diagram:


texts: How long will a treated post last in the ground?

texts:
The power company says I can put my permanent service entrance on a 6" x 6" pressure treated post. My friend suggested I consider a metal post sunk in concrete, for greater longevity.

How long should I expect a treated post to last in the ground?

Here's the diagram the power company gives:


texts: Roof trusses left out in rain, are they still good?

texts:
I experienced a house fire in May 2015.  The house is undergoing a full gut job.  The roof has to be completely replaced.

Unfortunately, I hired the wrong contractor and they have been taking their sweet time getting anything done.  In October the demolition was done. The house is now just a shell of concrete block; no drywall, no roof.  The roof trusses were delivered in early December and have been sitting outside un-covered since then.

I live in Florida. It doesn't get very cold, but we have had some serious rain recently.  Will the trusses warp? Will there be mold to deal with?


texts: How do I determine when to replace a carbon block water filter?

texts:
My refrigerator has a carbon block water filter. I'm wondering when the proper time to replace it is, and don't want to replace it too soon.

Is using the pressure drop/flow rate a good method of knowing when to replace it, or should I go by the "months/gallons" rating, even though my city water might be cleaner than the water they used for the lifetime testing, so it wouldn't need replacement yet? Or will bacteria grow in the old filter, so I really should replace it every six months regardless of use?

What's the failure mechanism of the filters? Will they start to pass what they are supposed to block, or does their pressure drop increase while their filtering ability remains nearly constant?


texts: I just moved in to a house with roof heating cables.  The outlet it is connected to in the garage has an indicator light which comes on in the down position.  The indicator light is off when the switch is in the up position.  Am I correct to assume I leave the switch up when I do not want the cables to work, and that the indicator light will show me in the down position that the heating cables are on?


texts: What height are lumens measured at when calculating lighting layout?

texts:
I'm trying to determine how many recessed lighting fixtures I'll need to light an area that is a 500 square foot rectangle, with 30 lumens per square foot (30fc). 30 lumens per square foot is what is recommended for the type of room in question, but the recommendation guides don't say what height those recommendations are intended for.

In my case, 30fc times 500 sqft would be 15,000fc total.

An R40 compact florescent lamp has a rating of 1150 initial lumens (at the fixture). Looking at photometric data though, it appears that this lamp produces 1fc at a 12' height with a 37' spread.

So, if 30fc is the goal for the room, do I want 12 fixtures, which will produce 30 lumens per square foot near the ceiling? Or 30 fixtures to produce 30 fc at the floor? Or something in between?

Or to put it more succinctly, when guides recommend that such and such a room should be x lumens, do they mean initial lumens at the fixture, or lumens at the floor, or lumens at the expected working height (like a counter top)?


texts: What could cause my electric water heater to over heat water?

texts: About a year ago our 15 year old electric water heater heated the water nearly to the boiling point until the breaker on the tank shut off the power.  When I reset the breaker the temperature went back to normal.  However, the tank has periodically had the the problem until recently when the temperature would no longer go back to normal.  We replaced both thermostats but the problem has not been fixed.  Is there another part that might be causing the problem?


texts: Due to moisture my outside wall is rotten in a small section of house. Picture attached. What is the best way to fix this.


texts: How to wire 3way on-off-on rocker switch for central vacuum hose

texts: I've got a central vacuum hose that has a broken 3way on-off-on rocker switch. It has 4 wires connected to it. I've seen several suitable replacement switches with varying numbers of pins, from 3 to 10. I'm unsure of which switch to buy (i.e. how many pins) and how to wire it.


texts: What size wire do I need for a 600ft run

texts:
I’m new to all the AC power and really don’t know what some things mean. I’m trying to figure out what size wire I need to run 580’.
From a service pole to my home. As far as I know it’s a single phase on 200A. I am in the u.s. Any help and explanation would be greatly appreciated.


texts: What can i do to up electrical amps in my house via fuse breaker

texts: i have in my home 120/240 Volt Main Service - Service Size: 100 Amps  I have a renter in the basement so he has cooking appliances and tv and refrigerator plugged in so we keep blowing fuses . What should I do to solve this problem.


texts:
I need to cut some steel wire/cable (the type that's a bunch of little wires twisted together--not sure the technical term for it). The wire is maybe a bit more than 1/16in in diameter.

The access is pretty limited. The wire is set back a few inches from an opening that's only 3 inches wide and 4 inches tall.

I've tried cutting it with some cheap snippers: they aren't powerful enough. I'm not sure I'd be able to fit some real bolt cutters or the like.

What might I use? A narrow hacksaw blade and some elbow grease?


texts: Should existing drywall and floor be cut to install a partition wall

texts: I would like to divide a room into two rooms with a dividing wall. Should I remove a portion of the ceiling drywall, and drywall on abutting walls, and should I remove the portion of the subfloor to attach the new partition framing directly to joists, studs and floor joists?


texts: Green rust on water heater discharge pipe, what cause it?

texts: Green rust on water heater discharge pipe, what causes it? The tank is pretty old, almost 20 years.


texts: installing ecobee SmartThermostat with Voice Control on older home

texts: I recently purchased the most recent ecobee Smart Thermostat with Voice Control.  The existing thermostat needs to be updated.  However, I'm not sure if I'm able to install this without installing the power extender kit (PEK).  The existing wiring is attached.  The current thermostat is a free NV energy smart thermostat which is shown.  Please let me know if I'm able to install this, preferably without the extender kit, thanks.


texts: What’s this diagonal metal strapping between my studs?

texts: So I’m trying to install a pet door and came across this between my studs. This is the second pet door I install and have never seen this. I’m in the dinning room and the wall is obviously an outside wall. Can I just snip it off? Or should I relocate?


texts: Add c wire to furnace for smart thermostat

texts:
I have an older furnace and am looking to add a c wire for a smart thermostat.  Currently behind my thermostat I have red/black wire, however, there are 3 additional wires that are not connected.

At the furnace the red/black are connected (as shown below) and the 3 additional wires are free.

From what I understand the C wire is 24 volt common. I have metered the furnace running/not running and found a post transformer wire that is 24 volt constant.  Can I simply connect one of the spare wires to this terminal or is there potential for too much of a current draw blowing the transformer?

Red coil wire is from thermostat.
24v constant is the bottom right black wire (this is where I want to connect the C wire to)


texts: Can I install 2 240v baseboard heaters in separate rooms?

texts:
Can I install "2" 240v baseboard heaters in separate rooms?
supplied by "1" Quad 2-pole 240 volt circuit breaker with a 10/2 or 10/3 wire?
each baseboard heater pulls about 500 to 600 watts each. Both are new installations with new wiring.


texts: What timber to use for formwork or shuttering concrete base

texts:
What type of timber would you use to construct the formwork (shuttering). There seems to be 4 different types that I could use.

Planed
Sawn Untreated
Sawn Treated
Carcassing

My particular project is for a garage slab that will have a 100 mm sub-base with 100 mm of concrete ontop e.g. The image below shows the sub-base and the proposed formwork.


texts: How do I determine if a wall can be removed?

texts:
I don't know much of anything about load bearing walls so I can't really decide how necessary this wall is.

So the space for my fridge is 35" almost exactly. Less if you count the trim on the floor. As many of you are probably aware, most larger fridges are 35.5" in width. This makes it extremely frustrating as only about a half inch is keeping me from upgrading to a well needed larger fridge. So, I'm thinking that I can remove this wall.  I'd just need to relocate the light switch. But I'm wondering if this wall is important or not, and how I can go about figuring it out.


texts: How to get A/C analog thermostat to have tighter hysteresis

texts:
I have three air conditioning units.  The largest one cools my main room and has a nice digital thermostat that keeps things within plus or minus one degree Fahrenheit of the temperature I set (the compressor turns on when the temperature gets two degrees above my set temperature and turns off when the temperature gets two degrees below my set temperature).

The other two air conditioning units have an analog thermostat that doesn't even let me set a specific temperature.  They are rotating dials with such arbitrary zones set on them as "cool" and "very cool".

Additionally, the hysteresis in the thermostat is very large.  I use these units in my two bedrooms and the large hysteresis produces what for me is an uncomfortably large range of temperatures over the course of the night: I will put on the minimum blankets needed to be comfortable when the temperature is at its lowest and still end up getting woken up a few hours later when the room gets too hot, before the A/C's compressor has kicked back in yet.

The unit with a digital thermostat is too big to fit in the hole available in either of the bedrooms, otherwise I would use that one in my bedroom to help me sleep better.

Is there any way to tamper with the A/C units to get the hysteresis held to a tighter range, or to trick the A/C unit's temperature gauge in such a way as to get the temperature held to a tighter range?  Or will the only solution for me be to get a smaller A/C unit that has a digital thermostat?

Possibly relevant info: I live in NJ, which is pretty humid.  I live on the second floor of a two-story building, and my neighbors below do not air condition.  Two of the four walls of my bedroom are exterior walls.  The insulation in my building is terrible, especially around the window (I can usually feel air leaking in through where the extended window frame meets the wall).  My windows do open but they are not nearly large enough to put in-window A/C units, I'm stuck to using a rectangular hole of a fixed size that is below the windows.


texts: Water softener drain challenge - looking for expert advice

texts:
I'm replacing a 19 year old Ecowater water softener. The softener is in my basement and drains using 1/2" ID PVC that runs overhead about 45 feet before tapping into the main drain line at the point it exists the house to the septic system.
Most every replacement water softener I'm looking at does not recommend running drain lines this distance, without at least upgrading to 3/4" ID drain tubing. Unfortunately, replacing this drain line is no longer an option given that much of my basement is now finished.
My best option seems to be to run a 1/2" or perhaps even 5/8" ID drain line to a kitchen sink located above the softener. Total run would be about 17' and rise about 8'. The sink has a p-trap and vent per code. I'd looking for advice on how to tap into this and make sure I am still in compliance and have no problems. Please see attached image.
I'm thinking I would replace the chrome tailpiece with PVC DWV and tap into it with 45-degree wye and then a straight run out of that to a height about equivalent to the vent (see pic), connect a 45-degree sweep to get it totally vertical, and then finish it with a dual softener / R-O air gap connection. (I might also use this for an R-O drain).
Any issues or suggestions?


texts: Why does my garage consumer unit buzz when the kettle is on?

texts:
I fancied a cup of tea while working in the garage and didn’t want to keep going back into the house so I fetched the kettle etc and plugged it into the garage.

When I turn the kettle on, the consumer unit buzzes.

It’s a 13 amp plug and on a 32 amp circuit and it’s does it even when the kettle is the only thing plugged in so I don’t think it’s an overload issue. Also I’ve used power tools on the same plug without issue.

There’s only one socket and some lights going into the unit, the socket is on a separate mcb to the lights.

I don’t think it’s the kettle as it’s fine when used in the house.

Any thoughts on why it buzzes and what can be done?


texts: Is some asymmetry in a breaker box normal? What about neutral to ground having voltage?

texts:
So, next in my quest to evaluate the health of my new home's electrical system, and call in professionals if needed, was some voltage checking of the panels/outlets around the house.  What I have is a main 200A service in the basement, and a 100amp sub-panel on the main floor. See the attached schematic (notice the main panel has a bonding strap between neutral and ground, where as the sub panel does not- I believe this is the right way for it to be wired).

I borrowed a friends Fluke multimeter and found the following- In both panels, the red bar to neutral is 119 volts, and the black bar to neutral is 121.5 volts (red and black in my diagram).  Testing the outlets around upstairs, I noticed that, as expected, some have a delta v of 119, others, 121.5.  I then tested the voltage drop across red to black, and found it to be around 242 volts. I also noticed that I have a slight voltage across my neutral to ground (it just so happens to be about 1.5 volts) upstairs.

Is this kind of small asymmetry normal?  Should I be getting an electrician in to check things out?


texts: What type of centralized home control hardware is available?

texts:
I recently got excited about the idea of creating a web software to run locally for my home that could be accessed via computer, smart phone, or tablet, which would give me complete control over most of the house's functions.

I went ahead and wrote the code to control a virtual home that's displayed on the site to show your changes instantly. The virtual home responds great, however, I'm a bit stumped as to how I can implement many of the features into a real home. I already added function calls to empty functions that are supposed to change the actual hardware, however, I haven't written any code for them because I'm not really sure what's available and how I could implement it. Here's a few of the main features in the virtual home that I need to connect to and control via the server, so essentially I need a way of controlling these features from a computer.

LED Lighting:

I'd like to be able to install LED lights with color changing capabilities. I've tried LED lights in the past, and they don't quite work for this application for a few reasons:

Narrow beam. I'd like it to spread light like a normal lightbulb, rather than having a beam of light.
Color selection. I wrote the code to basically take colors in an RGB hex format, so I'd like a bulb that can do millions of colors, not just 16.
Dimming options. I've seen bulbs that have like 255 different light levels, and I'd love that capability.
Effects. If I could fade, flash, etc. from color to color, that'd be cool, or at least be able to do it using code, even if it's not built-in.

While these are fairly major, obviously the biggest problem is finding a way to individually control the lights via computer.

Speaker Control

I'd like to install speakers throughout the house that can be controlled to play music from a centralized library, but more importantly, I'd like individual control of which speakers play what, so different rooms could be playing different songs simultaneously. Again, this would all need to be controllable from the server.

Automagical Appliances

My wife was fond of the idea of being able to turn the oven on or off remotely, so she could access the house's server from her phone through a purchased domain name, and get the oven heating before she got home, or make sure she hadn't left it on.

Basically, if you know of any way to control various appliances and capabilities of a home via computer(preferably low-level commands, such as in a console), I'd love to see what options are available, and possibly expand the capabilities of my software.


texts: Ceiling Fan with new light kit stopped spinning

texts:
TL;DR - Installed a light kit in two existing fans that both used to work. Lights now work, fan hums, but blades don't spin.

Here's what I did:

Just moved into a house that had ceiling fans already installed (and controlled by a wall switch) but didn't have lights. The fans both worked fine. I thought "that's easy, I'll grab some light kits at Home Depot and install them." Pop open each of the fan assemblies, connect the blue and white wires, flip the switch...no lights. Still fan, but no lights.

Hmm, problem must be higher up. So I get into where the fan is mounted to the ceiling and sure enough, the blue wire for the lighting is tucked away and not connected to anything. Since there is only one switch per fan (no separate switch for lights), I connect the blue wire to the existing black wire connections, screw everything back together, flip the power back on and now I have lights but no fans. I can hear the hum of the fan on each of the three speeds, but blades don't spin.

I also did this to both fans. I did the first and tested it but really was just testing to see if the lights worked, I didn't think to re-check the fans at that point. So the problem exists on both. Based on what I've been reading it seems like it may be the capacitor in the fan assembly, but the fact that this happened to both of these when I installed the lights makes me think the fix might be more than "buy a new capacitor."

Also, if I disconnect the blue and black wires for the lights in the fan assembly the fans still do not work. I haven't tried disconnecting the blue and black up in the ceiling yet (it's a huge PITA to get up there) but I feel like disconnecting in the assembly should be enough to kill that circuit.

Any ideas?

[UPDATE]
FYI, the fans in question are Casablanca Airflow 1040 fans. I think this is the relevant manual. The blue lighting wire is also labeled "D1 Option" but I can't seem to figure out what that means.


texts: how to remove some small rocks at the bottom of a 4' vertical water pipe 2 1/2" diameter?

texts: Two small rocks about 1" are blocking access to main water shutoff valve in 4-5' vertical pipe about 2 1/2" in diameter. Need to snag them! pipe is outside residence.


texts: Issue Installing Ecobee 4 on 4 zone boiler with Aquastat

texts:
I have a 4 zone valve boiler system. Each of the zone valves is Honeywell. I have a 24-volt transformer along with an aquastat.

I have attached a photo of the wiring diagram from what I can tell looks like.

The technician I had to our home was able to hook up an ecobee to the family room zone using a pek on the central air handler. He installed one on the upstairs 2nd floor zone valve by attaching a extra green wire that was unused in the bundle and switching some of the other wires around. After completion he said that the original installer had some of the wires backwards for the 2nd floor zone valve. I looked at the results and there are only 3 wires going to the thermostat r, w, and c.

I was hoping to hook up the other 2 zones (basement and living room) myself based on how he installed it, but im not having luck. when the green is attached in the basement, the ecobee continues to start and reboot. When the green is attached in the living room zone, the ecobee appears to work but eventually reboots ( I think this may have only let me go through setup when the heat was on in another zone).

I tried calling Ecobee support but they only said I should use a separate plug in transformer because I may be trying to draw too much current

https://imgur.com/a/7IcS1EL


texts:
A hypothetical question - if I get a key in the door lock from one side of the door, could I somehow use another key to open the door from the other side?

And what if you could "engineer" the stuck key - is it possible to allow the other key to open the door?


texts: Why do heat pumps use a separate “reversing” signal from thermostats?

texts:
Thermostats use a W signal to call for heat and Y for cool.  For heat pumps they also have an O or a B signal to "reverse" the pump into the appropriate heating or cooling mode.
Why two signals?
Why can't the pump reversal follow the appropriate W or Y signal?  Why is there a separate but identical signal to reverse one component, the pump, for heating or cooling? The thermostat does not generally control all the system components separately.  If the thermostat calls for heat, the system should do whatever it needs to do to produce heat.  Why does one part, the pump, need its own command?


texts: So I went to install a new kitchen sink that is 9 inches deep to replace the 6 inch double drain we had. The new sink hits the top of the drain vent. What is the best way to reroute the pipes? Currently the pipe is 26 or so inches from the bottom of my cabinet. It needs to come down about 4 inches atleast. My concerns are making sure it still drains fine after I shorten it. I am also changing from a 2 drain to a 1 drain sink. I am not sure if it is allowed to just lower the top pipe the vent sits on and install a new vent or not.


texts: How should I deal with tacky alkyd paint on metal stairs?

texts: We hired someone to spray paint metal stairs with Rust-Coat interior/exterior alkyd paint.  He diluted it with Natura Safe solution, a water-based paint thinner for oil-based and urethane paints.  It has been over 48 hrs, and the paint is still tacky.  It was only one coat.  Does anyone know the approximate drying time for this?  Any input would be very appreciated.


texts: Can my dryer exhaust crossing my HVAC duct be a fire hazard?

texts: I have a dryer exhaust that crosses over a flexduct HVAC line, could the dryer vent cause a fire?


texts: Help identifying a fastener and finding a replacement

texts:
I've had a bed frame stored in a closet for years and have lost the fasteners with which to assemble it. It's an Ikea Heimdal frame; this item is discontinued and they no longer carry the fasteners needed to put the frame together.

The fasteners can be seen in the assembly instructions here, parts #100585 and #100013.

One part is basically just a shank, the other an elongated head. They are unlike anything I've seen at the hardware store, so I would like to know what these pieces are called and where I can find replacements. I hope they are not unique to Ikea.


texts: How can I wire an outside motion detector light?

texts:
Good evening all, I need to setup a PIR outside. This is a new installation and existing cable runs are not present. The wiring diagram for this light is very limited. I want to utilise an existing internal light which has a grey, brown, black and earth however the diagram for the flood light has a live, neutral and earth.

At this point I need some advice on what to do now, I want the PIR light to be directly connected into the above internal light where no switch is present. Can this be done? Is this OK? I assume the timer on the PIR will be OK with no switch?


texts:
My toilet was leaking a bit from the base so I figured maybe the wax ring needed replacing. I took the toilet off the flange and saw something that doesn't look quite right. The flange is case iron and one side is torn and coming up. But even worse the flange is not directly over the pipe. It looks like it was pushed a few inches toward the wall. Have a look at the pics:

Here is the front of the flange, clearly not flush against the floor:

Here is a top view. You can see the flange is not directly over the outflow pipe anymore:

Here it is from the back. You can see the tear in the flange:

I'm not sure how this happened. It looks like the flange was pushed toward the wall at some point. Or the pipe was moved out from under the flange. A few years ago we had our foundation leveled, which tends to move things around in your house. That's the only thing I can think of that might produce and affect like this.

How do you fix this? Do we have to replace the tile and move the flange back over the pipe?


texts:
I’m replacing a single switch with a dimmable switch.  I’ve turned offthe power.  The current box has 2 black wires, one of which does not appear to be attached to anything.  I’ll try to attack a picture.

I’m assuming the wires are

Black (in switch) carries power.
Red (in switch) returns power.
Plain brass (in switch) ground
Loose black?

Any help appreciated.

Edit,  I’m a moron.  When in doubt read the instructions.  Another switch also controls these lights, so the second black is for that.


texts: whats the minimum water pressure for a shower/jet combo unit?

texts:
specifically, this unit http://www.houzz.com/photos/12411778/AKDY-Aluminum-Shower-Panel-Tower-with-Rainfall-Shower-Head-52-Mirror-Shower-modern-shower-panels-and-columns

It says minimum is 28psi - is that realistic?

Also, how useful will it be to measure the water pressure from the garden hose spigot? I ordered a water pressure gauge that screws into the hose spigot. I'm assuming the pressure inside the house is going to be a little lower than what i get from the garden hose. But how much lower is it usually?

I'm just assuming we have enough pressure since with the garden hose set to 'full' i can shoot a stream of water 40-50 feet at least.

Edit: measured it from the hose spigot - 120 psi. So i guess the real question is how much pressure am i likely to lose when you're using the internal plumbing? And as a side note, the contractor is going to be replacing all the plumbing in the house with new.


texts: Soil under slab (sidewalk) washed away and is now causing cracks down the middle

texts:
I have a 50' x 6' concrete slab in front of our basement that supports the same size wooden deck above with 6 post for the upstairs. The soil under it washed away due to poor drainage. I have fixed the drainage problem and now need to support the slab.

ISSUES:

slab built into steep sloping bank
dirt is gone from the outside edge back as far as 3' underneath
no footing at all
outer bottom edge of slab is above the ground by 12" for atleast 15' in the center.

How do I add footings to an existing slab. One thought was to form up the bottom of the slab, cut holes and pour concrete in to fill the void. Slab Jack estimate was over $5000

Pictures  http://imgur.com/a/NmRqr

The other choice would be pour pier footings in front of the existing slab and transfer the load.


texts:
I have a fence, nearby which around which the ground is not level. the Kick boards (pressure treated) are around 2' high. Can i fill dirt and use fence as retaining wall. there is a post every 4'.

If so what kind of moisture barrier i should use before putting the dirt.

It is a good idea to create some type of drainage system in the area next to fence?

UPDATE: putting the Pictures as per the suggestion.


texts: How can I stop my radiators "clicking" when they're turned on or off?

texts:
I have a central heating system on a timer, and whenever the timer turns on or off, for around ten / fifteen minutes, some of the radiators in my home make regular clicking noises, kinda hollow-sounding, coming from inside.

I've done some research and it seems that it's something to do with the hot and cold combining and something growing, shrinking, or similar.. is that correct?

I've already bled all of the radiators and there's no excess air in them.

What else can I try?


texts: wall heaters running even after thermostat reaches set temp

texts: I have wall heater units connected to a thermostat.  The room reaches temperature but heaters keep running.  Have reprogrammed thermostat several times without success


texts: Water sometimes come up in my tub, but my drain is not clogged.I in a condo on first floor of 14 story high rise

texts: Dirty water backs up in my tub sometimes,but my drain is not clogged.I live in a condo on the first floor in a 14 story high rise


texts:
I'm experiencing strong "sewer odors" coming from one of the basement drains. This is an old house (meaning the basement floor drains don't have an elbow bend and instead run straight down / there is no p-trap), but the strong odor is only present at one of three drains--which happens to be right by the furnace.

The rest of the plumbing in the house is new (just over 1 year), and the smell hasn't been an issue until the past month or so. Temperatures are still in the 30-50s range.

I'd gotten some "septic helper" at Home Depot, and was looking at ordering some active enzymes, but was not sure if they'd remain in the area long enough, or would be quickly whisked through.

Pouring water into the drain helps a little, but it's a daily exercise to even keep pace.

Basically, I'm not sure what to do to treat the root cause of the issue, and keep the odors from making me gag.

Any help would be appreciated!


texts: One sprinkler system zone has low pressure problems

texts:
I have a sprinkler system with low to no pressure on Zone 3

Zone 1 2 4 5 all have good pressure

I had a guy come in and put in egress windows in my Basement

He broke one of the sprinkler main lines to the Heads

On one side of my House  He union-ed the line together and he showed me

My line do not seem plugged and solenoid seems to work OK Is it possible the he may have pulled a joint apart to the One side of the house

Zone 3 is both sides of my house and I know the pvc pipe is at least 4 foot deep

PLEASE advise me

I cannot find any water coming from the ground

Thank you

Keith


texts:
I'm working on a small finished outbuilding that has a sub panel for lights, outlets, etc. From the main he sent (2) separate 70amp lines to the building sub panel into (2) 40 amp breakers, each 70 runs to a 40. Is that correct? There are 4 other varied 15/20 breakers feeding off that.

Thanks
David


texts: Why is there a septic/methane smell only in our kitchen?

texts: I have a new log house and the plumbers didn't want to put a hole in the roof, so they vented my drains with a stutgard(?) for air exchange and flow. Now there is a septic/mehane smell in our kitchen. I have not had any problems until now, just in the kitchen on 2nd floor. We have a septic tank and I am just puzzled.


texts:
My house has 3 stories, and from the first floor to the second it has spindles.

My issue with them is that they seem very rickety, and don't support any weight what so ever.

Is it possible to secure them?

The top set seem to be much worse than the bottom.


texts: Is it legal and safe to have an electrical breaker panel installed outside of an external wall of a single family home in Ontario Canada?

texts: Searched multiple sites but could not find the answer to the question if it is legal and safe to have an electrical breaker panel installed outside of an external wall of a single family home in Ontario Canada.


texts: Is exposed wire dangerous if neutral is capped?

texts:
An electrician left this in my attic with the circuit breaker on. You can see my non-contact tester lighting up. All the neutrals are capped, and the three hot wires are sticking straight up, exposed.

Is this dangerous? It was like this about 2 weeks before I crawled into the attic for other reasons and noticed.

The electrician is planning to return in a couple more weeks to complete the kitchen wiring, this is just after the rough-in.


texts: How to fix particle board at lock screw (Ikea Effektiv)

texts:
What is the right way to fix the particle board around the lock screw of an Ikea Effektiv full size cabinet? The movers seem to have dropped one end and essentially the wood around three of the lock screws has broken:

Do I attempt to fix this with wood glue, wood nails or duct tape?


texts: I am pretty new to DIY, bough a IKEA fixya drill. I am trying to drill into wall but at a certain point stop. I cannot push further no matter how hard I try. I have to give up which ends up looking the wall bad. Why i can't force more into wall or any wall for that matter.


texts:
We have a number of devices in our house that communicate via power lines (such as power line networking devices and some solar/electric metering equipment), and we've had persistent problems getting a good signal.  I've tried the steps outlined in this question, but I haven't had much success in locating the problem.

Are any tools available that would help quantify the nature of the problem...that aren't going to set me back hundreds of dollars?  I would love to have some hard data to work with, rather than the rather vague "it's just not working" that I've got right now.


texts: I dropped Goo gone on pavers. My husband had put the poly sand between pavers only 7 hours earlier. I thought they were dry and scrubbed the pavers that I stained then hosed the are off, washing out some of the sand!! Now it looks awful! How can he fix it?


texts: How do I create a curved surface drain out of concrete?

texts:
I have a barn and a pump house (10x16) structure that are within 3 feet of each other, built in 1910.  The barn's foundation is field-stone, mostly exposed on the side of the pump-house. There is a basement to the barn.

Between the buildings, there is a concrete surface drain that is cracked.  The cracks run roughly for 4 or 5 feet at the low end of the drain, and all along where the concrete meets the base of the barn foundation wall.

A decent little stream of water comes in the basement where floor (slab) meets wall in a heavy sustained rain.  Exposing the foundation would mean breaking up the 6" concrete for 20' & digging down 2 or 3 feet.

I thought I'd try just getting the water away first by fixing the existing surface drain, but it's really broken up.

So to replace it, how do I get the concrete to be concave in the center as they constructed it?


texts: How can I seal around a light fixture/light switch outlet?

texts:
I Have a house built in 1972. I'm currently 80% finished in installing a ceiling fan into my master bedroom.

I had an energy audit about a month ago, which revealed that I had  "pretty good sealing" in my home, but found the classic attic/wall entry points, specifically, wall outlets and holes in the ceiling for light fixtures, were leaking air.

I've already bought and installed all of the foam outlet/switch sealers (like this), but I don't feel as though its sealing very well around the house. I'm also not sure what to do around the hole in the ceiling.

Googling reveals suggestions like this one, but doesnt specifically mention what can be done to seal a hole in the drywall around electrical fixtures (I'm concerned about fires) Any suggestions?


texts: How to remove this brass collar from the pipe

texts:
The bathtub faucet is leaking at the diverter so the water can't be directed to the shower head. I bought a universal replacement (different brand) and attempted to remove the old one (it was a Delta MAINTSP831CH). After finally removing the small hex screw at the underside of the brass collar, I can't get the collar off the pipe. I applied some lubricant and tried pulling it off, but it wouldn't come off. I then pushed the collar further in to see if there's anything blocking it, only to discover a notch on the pipe which is probably preventing the collar from coming off.

I've replace a few faucets/spout before and even after reviewing the instructions for Delta faucet and the universal one, none mentioned the case with this notched pipe; All the pipes I've encountered are straight and smooth. Has anyone seen this before? Could anyone offer insight into why this pipe is notched and how to get the brass collar off?


texts: What is the best type of insulation to use on a hinged metal attic door?

texts:
What is the best type of insulation to use on a hinged metal attic door (no integrated ladder)?

Primarily concerned about heat entry through the door when closed.

Also concerned about heat entry around the edges of the door when closed.

Would like to use something that does not cause a mess when the attic door is opened.


texts: How do I find the source of a constant high pitch whistle in bathroom?

texts: I need suggestions to track down the source of a fairly loud nearly constant >1000 Hz tone which is loudest in my upstairs bathroom. I have eliminated the lights, the exhaust fan, the HVAC vent, and the water pipes as possible sources. It's not a nearby smoke detector. I have opened the attic and it is not coming from there, either. It started yesterday and it is driving me nuts.


texts: Why are ground and neutral bonded at the main panel?

texts: I realize that the only time the grounds and neutrals can be bonded is in a main panel, not a sub-panel. What I can't figure out is why could it be allowed in the first place? What were to happen if the neutral somehow were to get broken, wouldn't the current flow through the smaller ground into a grounding rod and burn it up? I also realize that the resistance of the earth is greater, but isn't that still dangerous? Thanks.


texts: Can I operate a 120v 60 hz sewing machine with a 220v 50hz power supply?

texts: I was going to buy a sewing machine from someone. It's rated 120v - 60 Hz (as written in the label), but the power system here is 220v - 50 Hz. Can I operate this machine with that power if I use step down transformer or stabilizer (220v to 110v) without changing 50 hz to 60 hz?


texts: Garage door freezing to the ground on cold days

texts: My door sticks opening after couple of hours and definitely cold mornings. This happens when I try to do it manually or with opener engaged.  It’s literally jammed. My 8 year old son can put a shovel at the bottom of the door and stand on it and it will click and free up. Literally .25 inches from initial force and then it’s fine.  After initial opening it will behave the way it’s supposed to for 15 mins to all day if it’s a warm day.


texts: Better to have single butt joint or 2 tapered joints when hanging drywall?

texts:
I am in the process of hanging drywall for my basement.

Due to the length of the walls there are a couple situations where I could either hang the sheets to have a single butt joint.. or to have 2 tapered joints. Which one would be better for the mudder? I am planning on hiring out the mudding but have not hired anyone yet to ask. thanks.


texts: Do fence pickets need to be totally dry before installing?

texts:
I want to purchase all the wood for my 6' privacy fence project but it will take me longer than a day to install. Also I'll be leaving all of the wood in my backyard which means it will probably get wet when it rains. My question is: Do fence pickets need to be dry before being installed?

I ask this because I know wood expands/contracts in different situations and I don't want to install my fence to have it bow later or be misshapen after I've finished.

The wood I'll be using is pressure treated pine.


texts: What is this part of the well pump/tank called, and how can I fix it?

texts: I just replaced the pressure switch on a home water system.  I primed the pump and pressure built up and water came out.  Water was dirty at first but it was clearing up (it hadn't been run for a while).  Pressure built up to 50 psi and cut off.  Ran the water and it cut back on.  Seemed to be working good, then it started leaking from a plastic bowl near the bottom of the vertical tank.  There's a pressure line (like that goes to the pressure switch) that goes from the pump to the "bowl".  I've seen similar things on home fuel oil tanks, but I don't know what it is called.  Kind of hard to fix it if you don't know what it is.  Any ideas?


texts: Add an outlet to the end of a partially-switched circuit

texts:
I am wanting to add an outlet to (what I believe is) the end of a switched circuit. There is only one set of 4 wires coming in to my existing outlet (black, red, neutral, ground). I don't need my new outlet to be switched, so I'm thinking I don't need to run the red wire to my new outlet. Is that correct? I have sketched out what I believe to be the correct wiring connection below.

Also, if I'm not continuing the switch, do I need romex cable with the red wire? Or, can I just use 14/2 cable with black, neutral, and ground?

Thanks in advance!


texts: What are the frames at the ends of benches called?

texts:
Even though I’m trying to build more stuff on my own, I’m DIY-challenged.

So today I saw these 2x4 chair ends.

Picture Source

I liked the overall idea, but I didn’t like the material these chair ends were made from. They’re made from resin and they looked cheap.

I guess my question is: what are these called and does this exist in another material besides plastic?


texts: How to tighten fitting on pipe in very small space

texts:
While replacing the washer in a bathroom tap/faucet, I've accidentally loosened the fitting (e.g. the tap now turns when I turn the tap "handle").

Here is a photo of the underside of the sink, with the specific part I need to get tightened circled.

There's very little space - I can grip it with my fingers but can't apply enough force to get it properly tightened.
It's plastic and I've tried pliers but couldn't open them sufficiently wide enough to grip, and I've tried an adjustable wrench but when I've angled it to actually grip the fitting there's no room to turn the wrench handle.

Is there some tool that will let me tighten this without actually taking the sink off the wall?


texts: How to do a flush transition from concrete wall to metal stud wall?

texts:
I have an existing 8" thick concrete wall 10' above finish grade, and I would like to add a 6" metal stud plaster wall above the concrete wall.

With a 1" plaster coating, there will be a 1" recess from the outer face of the concrete wall. Is there any way to have a flush transition from the concrete wall to metal stud wall?

Additionally, do I have to have a horizontal control joint in the corner of an L shaped wall built as above, or is there anyway to hide that transition?


texts: How much overlap should bypass doors have?

texts: I want to hang bypass doors in the closets. The finished opening is 48". Do I use 2 24" doors and leave gap on each end or do I use a 24 and a 26 for the overlap so they look even, or 2 26ers


texts: what do you call a vise with a slot in it for a saw?

texts: This vise has a slot so you can saw the thing you’re clamping.  What do you call this kind of vise?


texts:
(Bear with me, I'm a non-native English speaker from a non-English speaking country, so my terms may be a bit off.  If anything is unclear, please inform me of this and I'll attempt to clarify.)

I've currently moved into a new house and I have some issues with my heating.  My heating system works with water, and at first, I figured it was just there not being enough pressure - as there wasn't - so I decided to raise the bar - if you'll pardon the pun - and it works fine for most of my rooms.

Unfortunately, the bedroom is still cold.  I can sense almost no heat coming from it and it makes loud ticking noises from time to time, so I was told to vent the air from the heating system, as likely this would resolve the issue.

Having done some research, however, I run into contradicting information on how to proceed.

1) Is it okay to vent just one room?

2) If not, where do I start?  Everything online says 'start at the bottom', but several friends have had repairmen over at their places, claiming the workmen instructed to start at the top of the building in the future.

In a bowl of water, the air goes up, so I guess I can see how that'd work, but their advise obviously clashes with everything I've found online so far.

Could anyone explain this to me?


texts:
I recently had frozen pipes in my basement. I took some drywall down to identify the location of the frozen pipes and to apply heat to thaw it. It appears the frozen section is somewhere about halfway between the ceiling and the floor, as when I used a hairdryer directed there it thawed the pipes. The pipes run along an exterior wall which has a layer of insulation and vapour barrier between the wall and the pipe, and then another layer of vapour barrier and insulation between the pipe and the drywall. At first I was upset, as this is a new home and I thought it was poor workmanship; but once I noticed that they actually had 2 layers of insulation and vapour barrier, I began to realize it is most likely they just didn't catch a cold spot which is in actuality making it more of a cooler behind the wall rather than a warm spot. Also, IMO, any insulation between your warm house and piping, especially against an exterior wall, is just going to buffer the warmth from reaching the pipe. But I will see if that is up for debate.
Below I have included 3 pictures of the area. The two pipes running vertical are the hot and cold feeds for the washing machine. The T-connector is a feed for the downstairs shower and also runs behind the wall. The entire column feels cold and I can't tell if that is coming from the corner stud or the top near the joist. I have certainly felt cold air coming from under the joist. The water main line runs into the wall (interior) and comes up through the wall somewhere to the left of the picture along the exterior wall near the ceiling. If having the main run in this location is an issue I can get some closer pictures for you.
In order to do this correctly, I thought of a few options: option one would be to remove the drywall in front of the pipe and install a plastic channel (aesthetics) to run the pipes on the inside (warm) of the wall in addition to insulating the vertical corner stud and gap between the foundation and the joist. Another option would be to just insulate the vertical stud and gap under the joist, repair the vapour barrier and put the pipes back. I would leave the drywall open to make sure that if I didn't insulate all the cold spots I wouldn't have to take the drywall down to thaw the pipes again.
Any other options or comments are much appreciated.


texts:
We have two very leaky, single pane windows that we need to insulate. Because interior shrinkwrap storms are impractical for several reasons, we're looking at exterior storms instead. Home Depot has quoted us $122-$177 per window for LARSON storms that are in the size range we need - i.e. narrow but tall.

My question is where I should mount them. Simplest would seem to be an outer-mount (AKA overlap or Eastern) fit, in which the storm is sealed to the frame around the existing window. The problem with this is that in this configuration, there is no sill for the storm to rest on. All of the documentation I have found about installing storm windows talks about resting on the sill, so I can't tell if not having one available is a problem or no.

If we do indeed need a sill to rest on, and therefore are forced to go with an inset-mount (AKA blind-stop, flush or Western) it's not clear to me how I will compensate for the fact that the inset is heavily sloped and non-level. Where would I take measurements from? Depending on where in the inset I measure from the height measurements will vary; close to the edge it will be taller, as it slopes up to the interior window the measurement would be shorter.

Given this window, then, which mounting style would you use and why? Do I absolutely need a sill to rest on for an outer-mount?


texts: Are standard light bulb bases being phased out?

texts:
Recently we've been shopping for light fixtures, and have noticed a dramatic increase in non-standard bulbs.  CFLs in particular seem to be drifting away from the common threaded base, in favor of 2-post snap in bulbs.

I know there are efforts underway to remove incandescent bulbs from shelves, and I don't necessarily disagree with this.  But I'm worried about having to find or keep on hand hundreds of different types of bulbs for my light fixtures rather than a consistent size and base.

So...  Is the standard base becoming a thing of the past?  Is a new standard clear on the horizon, yet?  Should I try to stick with screw-base fixtures, or is diversity likely to be okay in the long run?