texts: How can I use a 240 volt circuit for 240v and 120v appliance as per code?

texts: I have a double wall oven (40 amps) on a separate circuit and want to replace with single wall oven (20 amps) and wall microwave (120v, 2000 watt). How can I use the 240v feed to supply the wall oven (240v) and microwave (120v)? Is this code compliant. The reason for asking is that a new wire is difficult to lay in existing home.


texts: I have a garden tub that never gets used. There is a foul (not sewage) smell coming from it. What is it and how do I get rid of it?


texts: Is it feasible to pull individual conductors out of a 20m CAT3 cable?

texts:
I am well aware that this is pushing what can be DIY-ed.

I live in a student housing cooperative, and the two houses it comprises have an unused phone network running between them. The network was run through a CAT3 50- or 100-pair cable. The cable has a steel sheath inside, so I am assuming it is a direct burial between the buildings, running between both basements and underneath the pavement beneath the two buildings. The length of the run is probably 20-30 metres, but it's hard to tell because there's no way of knowing where exactly it goes underground.

What I hope to do is pull the individual conductors out of the cable, so that I am left with an empty sheath only. This I intend to use as the conduit for several CAT5e cables to replace the obsolete CAT3 wiring.

I've tried tying the conductors to a stick and pulling really hard, which didn't quite work out. If I pull on only a few conductors at a time, say up to 8 or so, I can pull out a few millimetres worth of conductor before they break from the strain. If I pull a larger number at a time, they only come out by a few millimetres, if at all, and it may be just the insulation stretching rather than the conductors sliding through. However, the conductors are very greasy, which I'm assuming is either to make them waterproof, or was perhaps used to pull them through originally (although it's more likely that this is a direct burial cable). So it seems like I should be able to pull the individual conductors out, pull some string or wire through, and use that to pull new cables through the remaining sheath.

Is doing this feasible at all? Would using an electric winch help, for example? Has anybody done anything similar before? If I can find the mechanical specifications of the cable, could I calculate how feasible it is (based on the maximum pulling force & the length of the cable, for example?)

I understand that the professional solution would be to dig up the cable and replace it.


texts: Why does my halogen T-4 desk lamp not light up the bulb completely?

texts:
I know I could just drop 100 bucks or less if I went LED for a new desk lamp but if anyone can help me figure out what's wrong I'd appreciate it. It was also my dad's lamp and he has since passed so it sort of feels like a piece of him in my office, so I admit to some sentimental attachment here. It it were any other lamp, I'd probably have replaced it.
Some time ago the T-4 style bulb died. I can see a filament just floating around broken inside the bulb so I knew it was shot. Up to that time, the lamp worked flawlessly. I'd never had to change the bulb over the course of probably 10 years of ownership, it was original to the lamp.

I purchased a package of T4 bulbs from Amazon. The lamp specifies 50W so that is what I ordered. When the bulbs came in I swapped one in and it just did nothing. I thought maybe it was defective so I tried another and another. Nothing. I RMA'd them thinking I'd been juked by a bad batch or a shady merchant. Ordered another pack from a different vendor and this time the bulb filaments glow but the bulb does not light up.

This lamp did used to have a sort of "slow burn" to get to full brightness but it seems to be not be getting any brighter as I wait and I'm fearful if there's some kind of mismatch here that the bulb will pop / blow out. The lamp has two brightness settings and I get the same result on both settings except the low is lower red glow.
Label on the bulb packaging says 50W T-4. I have to believe there's something wrong with the lamp? What are the odds I'd gotten two bad batches of T-4 bulbs from totally different vendors?
Am I just ordering the wrong bulbs? (Amazon Product Link)
Thanks for any help / suggestions.


texts: Andersen casement windows show condensation and ice on the inside of the glass

texts:
Our home in IL is 25 years old and during the last 2 - 3 winters we have experienced condensation and thick ice on the inside of most of the 30 windows we have in the home. We know several windows need to be replaced because they are foggy and streaky all year round.
Many contractors want to sell us brand new windows (price range: $25,000 to $70,000).
While we are contemplating our options (excluding new windows) on how to solve this problem we were wondering if anyone on this site has any idea: a) how to fix this problem or b) a contractor genre' that we could turn to for information and pricing?
Thanks,
John


texts: Are the 3 wires found in standard NM-B electrical cable functionally identical?

texts:
NM-B 14/2 cable (used for indoor residential electrical wiring) contains 3 wires:

The cable contains:

(1) copper wire with black sheathing (to act as the hot wire)
(1) bare copper wire with no sheathing (to act as the ground wire)
(1) copper wire with white sheathing (to act as the neutral wire)

Are all three wires physically identical, in terms of the gauge of the current carrying conductors within it, and special properties of the cable itself?

Here's another way of phrasing my question: Could I (hypothetically) use, for example, a black wire as my neutral, a white wire as my ground, and the bare wire as my hot wire?

(I don't actually plan on doing this, since this is in obvious contradiction of protocol and is needlessly confusing. It is a theoretical question, as I try to understand if the wires truly differ in any way.)

If the answer to my question is "yes," then what role does the sheathing play, other than as a means of identification? Does the sheathing on the two sheathed wires differ in any way?


texts: Should rooms be designed to minimize waste of sheet goods?

texts:
We are building a new home and I want some guidance on recommendations for design creating minimal wastage and maximum efficiency for the builders.

For example. Are room sizes best divisible by 4 since sheetrock is usually 4 x 8.  Same way with plywood sheets.   Or does this even matter?


texts: Best option to fix cracks in ceiling with radiant heat?

texts:
One of friends recently purchased a house with electric radiant heat in the ceiling.  Several rooms have cracks in the ceiling.  Currently they are redoing the kitchen which has a large crack which is about 8 to 10 feet long.  What are the best options to fix?

The ceiling is textured and they are planning a have a sample analyzed first for asbestos.

I am worried about screwing into the existing ceiling as a do not want to screw into a wire and damage the radiant heating.  I don't know too much about radiant heating system in general.  House was built in early 1970s.

Some options I have come up with so far:

Screw new boards on top of existing.  I beleive this will make the existing heating less effective and I am also worried about screwing into the ceiling as mentioned earlier.
Fix cracks and skim coat entire ceiling.
Fix cracks and respray entire ceiling with texture.  They don't mind the texture and could probably hire a professional to respray the ceiling to uniformity.
Take down and redo.  I don't know if that is even feasible without damaging the existing ceiling and/or heating element(s).

Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: How do I tape a joint between drywall and plaster?

texts: I have old old plaster (on lath) bordering new drywall. Is it better to use mesh tape or just paper?


texts: How can I prevent silt from clogging my yard drain?

texts:
In my concrete back patio, I have a standard 4" square drain cover which allows water to enter a sewer pipe about 6" below.    The issue I have is that the sides of this hole are not covered in cement or other material, so sometimes you get mud coming in from under the concrete and clogging the drain.   When the lake appears in our back patio, I clear the congestion with my hand.

Who's got a good solution?   I was thinking maybe cut open the patio to put in a 12" square cover and then have some room to create a better concrete "sink" to keep mud out and direct water to the drain.   Other ideas?    Also, who would I call to do this work?

Update & Resolution:
Using @FreeMan advice, I ended up filling the gap with hydraulic cement.  So far, so good!   Having not worked with concrete before, I was impressed with its ability to stay put (and not fall down the drain before curing).  Third pic is proof of work.


texts:
How reliable are the following methods to treat hard water for home use?

Not looking for drinking purpose/RO, but for Bathing/Washing etc

Electronic AntiScale System
Magnetic Water Softener
Salt Based/Resin Based Water softeners

Please do comment

From Coastal Area, Chennai, India


texts: How to fix gaps between flooring planks in mid-1800s house?

texts:
I live in a mid-1800s house, which I plan to sell this Spring. The original (I think) wood flooring has gaps between the planks, some pretty sizable (photos follow).

Is there any good fix for this? I've seen people use wood filler/epoxy, and it didn't seem to turn out well. Perhaps doing that and painting/dying it black might work better.

I've heard the "old" solution was to pack those spaces with rope, but I don't think that would look better than the status quo.

Any suggestions?

Photos, big gap:

Medium gap:

Small gap:


texts: Best way to hang a server rack in the attic

texts:
I am building a little home network, and bought a 6U server rack.
Right now, it's sitting in the attic, and I am trying to think how to best hang it up.
I am pretty new to this, and I am bit concerned about drilling anything in attic, as not to compromise the integrity of the structure.
The weight of the rack is about 20KG, currently. I am thinking it will be around 50-70 KG a few years down the line, as I add more stuff.
Any recommendations how to best hang it in, based on the picture below?
I can provide more pictures if below doesn't make sense.
Thanks!


texts: kitchen faucet is stuck and we need help

texts: my husband is trying to remove a kitchen sink at his parents house. it is a three piece faucet. the handle to turn the water on is being held on by some gold clamp. it is in the shape of a pac man with 5 or so holes it. what could thus be and how do we get it off


texts: mesh net to help keep crawlspace insulation from sagging

texts: Is it practical to install netting for crawlspace insulation to help keep loose insulation in place? If so how is it fastened to the floor joist and where can I find the netting?


texts: Proper way to install double-layer of subfloor?

texts:
I am installing natural stone tile, so I've had to reinforce the joists a bit and I'm currently working on installing a new subfloor.

The subfloor is 3/4" plywood with 1/2" plywood on top of it. The underlayment will be Ditra.

My main question here is about how to secure to the joists. Normal application with just 3/4" I would squirt down some construction adhesive to the joists, lay the 3/4" layer and screw 8" on edges and 12" in the middle. This becomes slightly more complicated because I have two layers now and I need to know whether I should still do the 8" and 12" method on the first layer as well as on the second layer, or if there's a different way I should be approaching the screwing and gluing.

As a side question, should I glue the first and second layer of plywood together with construction adhesive?


texts: How to calculate theoretical long-term projected savings for a DIY solar powered fridge?

texts:
I went on energystar [dot] gov and used their product finder to find the lowest "annual energy use" compact refrigerator. For my use, that turned out to be the FURRION - FCR43ACA-BL which has an estimated 151 kWh/yr annual energy usage rating. I then wanted to run this off of one solar panel. Now I'm new to solar, so I also need a battery, an inverter, and a charge controller.

What I'd like to know is after expenses

(1) solar panel
(2) battery
(3) inverter
(4) charge controller

at what point, in practice, does this pay itself off compared to PG&E at $0.12/kWh? I mean, if 1-4 costs, say, $300, then if the fridge is costing me $18.12/yr from PG&E to run, then does that mean it takes 16.5 years to pay off? If so, then can I get 1-4 low enough to make the investment worth it? Paying it off in 3-4 years seems worth it but 1-4 isn't going to cost $72.48.


texts:
How can I reproduce the functionality of these 3-Arm pergola corner brackets for 4x4 wood posts? My concern is that it will need to securely hold the weight of the treated 4x4.

They would be used for this:


texts: My SO is a renter and their landlord sent someone over to replace the back door. The removal of the old door and installation of the new one wasn't great - the new door doesn't fit properly, and there is now a gap of space next to the doorframe. It lets in air and light, but more annoyingly, moths and other insects can get inside. I stuffed the gap (between a quarter of an inch and an inch at various spots) with newspaper from the inside. Is this a terrible temporary fix? The landlord is often not quick with repairs, so I don't expect that it will be remedied anytime soon (it has already been several months). We don't want to spend a lot of money correcting their error, but don't want to do anything that could be dangerous or lead to mold or other, bigger issues. Thank you for any advice or insight.


texts: Residential Air Conditioner Compressor Won't Start

texts:
When I turn the air conditioning on in my house, air blows out of the vents but the air is not cool. The fan inside the outdoor A/C unit spins just fine as well but it seems that the compressor won't start. A few seconds after the air starts blowing out of the vents inside my house, I hear a short buzz/humming sound that lasts about half a second that I assume is the compressor trying to start. This buzzing sound happens about once every 15 seconds, so it seems like the compressor is still trying to start, but never does.

I have replaced the run capacitor in my unit (the only one I see) and it has not fixed the problem. Not sure if it matters but it seemed like before I replaced the capacitor, the compressor would only try to start once every minute or so, compared to once every 15 seconds after the new capacitor was installed.

The A/C circuit is never tripped in the electrical panel so it does not look like a short anywhere. I have also tested the resistance between all three terminals on the condenser itself and everything seems to be normal with readings between 0.5-2 Ohm depending on the pair of terminals being tested.

The unit was serviced last year and we were told we likely had a leak in the refrigerant system. We opted to have the refrigerant recharged and to try a sealant hoping to buy us a year or two longer. The unit is ~13 years old.

Make and Model: Armstrong Air Model no. SCU10B48A-7

Any ideas on how to get the compressor to run or what the problem might be?


texts: Slow spinning ceiling fan that won't turn off: dangerous?

texts:
Our ceiling fan spins very slowly, and constantly, no matter how many times I pull the chain to try and turn it off.  I've tried leaving it for several minutes between chain yanks, to give it time to spin down (even though it's spinning at about a revolution per ten seconds), but it never stops.

I'm not worried about the fan working - I don't need it.  I just want to be sure it's not going to cause a fire.  Am I ok?


texts: TheDoor Release Button on our Panasonic microwave oven Model NN-H275

texts: The door release button popped out on our microwave, can it be reinstalled?


texts:
currently using a Goodman 24000 BTU Central air, installed in '96. it is starting to cost too much because of leakage of refrigerant. I did the size calculator thing and it recommends a 30000 BTU unit, but that size just doesn't seem right (24000 all day sometimes to cool down from the mid to upper 80's °F to 78 °F). I think that it's too small, and think it should be larger. I am looking at a 36000 BTU system, but someone else said that is too high for the square footage.

My main floor is 1100 SF and the basement is too, (2200 SF). I cool both and calculated that in, that's why I think 36000.

1 calculator says use a 2.5 ton, but if you use the oven a lot, to bump it up 1/2 ton more. My wife and I both cook a lot.

What do you think?

In 96 it still took 4 or more hours to drop the temp 6 degrees. Its been recharged 2 times since it was installed, 1 capacitor replacement. The last recharge cost $225, 2 years ago. The furnace however has had 4 controller boards, 3 temp sensors, and 2 blower motors. That is why I am looking for a replacement for both. The furnace size is not an issue, only the question about the AC size. I just don't want to get an AC too big and cool the house, before it removes the humidity and then have that issue to deal with, although I could run a dehumidifier if it's too big an air conditioner. My house has 2 big trees, for now, one on the East and one on the West, but the one on the West will need to be removed in the next 2 years. That is why I think I'll need the 3 ton, vs the 2.5 ton. The West side has a big sliding glass door, but all the windows are double glazed and low E glass.


texts: How should I insulate my garage roof if I want to use the garage as a workshop?

texts:
I have read a lot about proper insulation and ventilation, including some posts on this site, but none adequately answer my questions.

My goal is to operate an electric heat source in the winter and have ~60 °F temperature maintained when working in the garage.  In the summer, I think we will typically leave the garage door open, however it would be nice to one day have it stay cool in there if it's 90-100 °F outside.

This is in Ohio, where we typically have temps of 0-95 °F throughout the year, it can also get pretty humid.

I do not have soffit vents, but there is a ridge vent on the roof already installed.  I do not want to drywall nor do I want to build a ceiling.

As you see in the photos I have already insulated the walls with R15 Batt installation.  Now I'm unsure where to go from here for roof 2x6's.  I bought some radiant barrier R11-equivelent insulation (seen in photos as well), which I was planning to attach to the end of the 2x6's above, which leaves plenty of ventilation behind them, should be "ok" in the winter and pretty decent in the summer.  However, not having soffit vents, I'm unsure if that is the proper use-case.

You'll see from the wall install that I have no concerns about a vapor barrier, and do not care to seal my garage 100% (I only got faced insulation because it was cheaper =)  ).  However, I am concerned about mold/moisture problems in the space.

I would love some feedback as to the proper way to proceed here.  Ideally I can make use of my radiant barriers, and ideally I won't have to cut in soffit vents.

Full resolution images here for reference: http://imgur.com/a/4Wd9Q and http://imgur.com/a/ud8os


texts: Should I remove this gray layer on freshly bought steel?

texts: So I bought this steel bar 240x5x0.5 cm and it has this kind of ugly, somewhat chippy surface: a dark gray layer. What is it? Should it be removed? In the picture, you can see how I'd sand it down, but it's taking forever (using 60 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper) with an excenter sander. I'll paint it with an anti-corrosion primer once the material is ready. I'm aligned towards removing it but perhaps my method is not the most optimal...


texts: How to remove the set key from shower faucet?

texts:
I'm trying to change the diverter valve in my bath/shower tap but I cannot get the key out to enable me to do so. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove it? I'm also not sure what it's called, but it's the U shaped key that holds the valve in?
It is a Grohe Concetto (25109) tap, and the part I'm trying to replace is diverter valve (48035).
Thanks in advance!


texts: Can't get drive hub out of washing machine to replace gearcase

texts:
I have a Kenmore "VMW" model 110.21302012

I am pretty certain the problem with this machine is the gearcase has worn out. To that end, I already have purchased and received the replacement, as well as a replacement drive hub and belt.

I am now stuck. Or, I should say, the drive hub is stuck -- I can't free the old gearcase from the washer. It is as if the multiple pieces of the drive hub, and the gear shaft, have fused together into a single piece.

I bought some Supco "Rust Buster" penetrating oil. Was advised in a repair video that that would help.

Does anyone have any advice on freeing these parts?


texts:
Last week I've put lights in the garden. There was already a wire coming out from a switch in the house so it was an easy job.
Since there is a door at the other end of the garden I though it would be nice to have an extra switch there. So I've bought a cable with two wires to use as L1/L2 and wired it to the 1st switch, following this schema from here

I managed to connect everything and tried a few times and both switches were working fine.

After a couple of hours, I've switched on a light in the kitchen and the box power went off.
And there started the madness. I found that there was power on the ground wire running to the lamps. I've checked all connections thinking I had mixed it up somewhere. I've disconnected ALL ground wires and there is still power:
between two lamps there is a standard twin & ground cable and I've left only L and N connected. If I probe the ground there is power. (I only have a Neon Screwdriver for testing). This is for ALL the wires.
I thought (although improbable) that all the wires melted shorting L and G but N is fine and I would expect such an event to mess everything.

Even more weird, I've found there is power on L2 when both switches are on L1.
Thinking of a problem in the new switch, I've disconnected the L2 wire running from one switch to the other and found there is still power on it! It's not connected to anywhere, neither end, but when I put the switch to L1 that wire has power.

Tomorrow I'm going to buy a tester to check if the wires are actually shorted. Anything else I should check?

UPDATE: I've just checked the wires and there is no short-circuit. Yet when the circuit is closed, if I switch on another light the RCD trips.
The current on the "disconnected" wire is around 45V, so definitely not a short-circuit. Probably just capacitive coupling as suggested by ThreePhaseEel.
Would this be enough to trip the circuit?

UPDATE 2: I've put everything back as it was and now works fine. I tried all switches in the house and the circuit doesn't trip.
I've ensured no naked wire pokes out of the junctions. Maybe it was just that.


texts: Unable to get the GFCI plug to reset why

texts: why won't my GFCI plug reset-button reset? It is flashing red and I am unable to get the reset button to pop back.


texts: Is stainless steel water piping more durable than copper?

texts:
After thirty years of usage, the plumbing in my house is starting to fail progressively. The water pipes in my house is made of copper, one of which is suffering from pitting, which results in a pin-hole leakage. I tried to repair with plumber's putty, but that did not work as the water cannot be drained out completely even when the mains is shut. I have also tried taping and clamping, but it wouldn't work either.

As a portion of the pipes running through my house is buried underground, there could be leakage undetected elsewhere. My intention is to replace the entire network of water pipes with one that is exposed and easier to inspect and maintain. I am given two options, copper or stainless steel. The stainless steel option is currently 20% cheaper, but I am not sure whether this is the better option in the long run.

Is stainless steel piping more durable than copper?


texts: What would cause my dishwasher to leak when it starts filling?

texts:
my Maytag DW-2 dishwasher started leaking water from a small hole under, near the back and to the left whenever it starts filling with water. It must leak +-1 cup then stops leaking for the duration of the wash. Any idea why it would do that?

Update:

I have 2 more photos:

the inside lock looks like an X inside an O. Presumably the ends of the X should fit in the 4 notches to take it out but it seems that a special tool must be required to twist it in place.

this is where it leaks:


texts:
So I've been house hunting for some time now, and have come across a beautiful house that I've absolutely fallen in love with! However, the house is an abandoned fixer-upper that's in serious need of some TLC. Judging on the provided pictures from the realtor (on Zillow) the house seems to have pretty strong bones, but the restoration, I can tell, will be extensive.

There appears to be a lot of wood rot and water damage on the floors, walls and ceilings (holes and peeling, crumbling, potentially moldy paint and drywall). The entire upper levels (2nd floor and attic) were likely going to be redone, but left unfinished at the bare bones of the house. The bathrooms, all full, are also in poor condition- water damage and some traces of mold. The kitchen has been stripped, likely by the house's previous owners, and there are no appliances or cabinets in sight, and many of the windows will need replacing. Long story short, this house is in desperate need of some love; and considering it's location (East Orange, NJ) it's probably unlikely that it'll get it. But I'm in love and can really see its potential.

Now I know what I've just described probably sounds like a house of horrors with no point in saving, but if possible I still really want to give it a chance. I'm trying to schedule a visit with an inspector and/or contractor so that I can see everything with my own eyes and those of an experienced professional. There's no mention of any electrical or plumbing, so I'm automatically going to assume it's in similar condition to the rest of the house: poor. But I'd like to have a professional prognosis for that too.

In the end, I'm a DIY addict, and very good with my hands, so a fixer-upper seemed the perfect match for me in my search for the perfect home. I'm always up for a challenge, but I want to make sure that I'm not going too far with this house before I make any offers. At just under $90K, the price is almost too good to pass up, but could it also be  serious warning that I should avoid all together?


texts: I am installing a steam shower in Ontario, Canada. The unit is "TMG Industrial SR-915". The electrical specifications are listed as 220v/2.8 KW with gfci. My questions: the chord coming from the steam generator includes a test/reset button component. Is this gfci ? ordoes the breaker need to be gfci also?                Can I install a plug and receptacle under the tub portion (next to where the steam generator is positioned)?


texts: r 30 insulation in my downstairs basement

texts:
is it ok for copper hot/cold water pipes running along the basement ceiling to be covered with pink insulation? I have most of the insulation in, but wondering about this one row where those pipes lie. My plan is to install drop ceiling. I ask because I've heard of condensation build up as well as if the hot pipes can burn and cause fires? Thanks for your time
Matt


texts:
I have a Craftsman lawn tractor with an 18.5 HP Intek Engine (97700 series).

It starts fine; but, after a minute or so, it begins blowing white smoke, then stalls.  The smoke is not real thick, but enough to make a haze around the mower.  When the mower first begin stalling, gas seemed to be getting in the oil.

I've replaced the head gasket, changed the oil, cleaned the carburetor, replaced the air filter, and checked the valve clearances.  Is there anything else I should check before taking it to the repair shop?


texts: Battery Backup for 240V (USA) Water Well

texts:
I have a well pump. I want to build out a battery backup (and, eventually, charge the batteries with solar and, more eventually, move to solar full time).
It's 1/2 horsepower on a 240v circuit. It's a Webtrol WS1005L with a Franklin Electric motor. Per the manufacturer's documentation, it draws a max of 6 amps on the two wires with a maximum load of 960 watts and only needs a 15 amp breaker.

The manufacturer also says it can be run with a 2000 watt generator.

It has a beefy wire with a four-prong plug.

I'm trying to figure out what combination of inverter and batteries I need to power it.
For the inverter... I can't find an inverter that has an outlet like that. Is there one? Do those funky looking universal outlets work for that? Can I use an adapter to get to a more "normal" plug?
For the batteries... I assume I need some number of 100Ah sealed AGM batteries, and if my calculations are correct, one battery will get me about... 8 seconds of run time. How many should I have? Should I wire them together as 24V or leave them as 12V?
Any help would be appreciated!


texts: ISSUE: Snowblower pushes snow (forward) rather than throwing snow out of the chute

texts:
I have an old Craftsman 3/21 snow-blower (Model: 536.884581).  The snow-blower starts perfectly, motor runs perfectly and the auger spins when the drive is engaged.  When I use it to blow snow, it “sometimes” blows the snow out of the chute but later it stops blowing snow.  I soon start seeing a lot of snow accumulating at the neck of the snow-outlet chute.
I initially thought that the drive-belt was lose and hence tightened it. This did improve auger spin-rate but did not solve my problem
I next checked on the internet and many folks suggested that the shear/cotter pin must have broken off in the auger-shaft.  However, when I checked my unit’s underbelly, I did not see any shear/cotter pin on either side of the auger.

QUESTION: What corrective action (fix) should I take to make my Craftsman 3/21 Snow-blower throw/blow snow without collecting snow at the chute's neck?

Help!!

Thanks.


texts:
I'm trying to figure out the best mounting layout for installing 20x16 sail shade over my patio. My plan is to anchor 2 corners to roof rafters, and 2 other to trees. I'm worried about load from winds, and how would all of this hold up to that. Mostly my concern is that trees would be flexing in the wind. I'm planning to anchor at ~10' off the ground to a 10-15" diameter tree. I don't like to use posts (that would not have this problem) since they would end up in the middle of the grass. The trees are ~35' from the corner of the shade. To install post by the tree, I'd need to bury it 5' deep (for 10' above grade), which would be quite a fit.

So 3 questions I'm trying to address:

How should I go about calculating loads I should be expecting, and what kind of load can my roof take before damage occurs?
As an idea to solving roof damage, would you recommend using some sort of fail-safe mechanism that would break and drop the shade in case winds are too strong before doing damage to a roof? If so, what would that mechanism be, and how to properly size it?
Is there a way to estimate tree trunk flex in strong winds, other than observing when such an event occurs?


texts: Low voltage transformer on both doorbell & furnace

texts: I have ring video doorbell constantly have to be recharged I am thinking it's because my low voltage transformer. my transformer currently has the doorbell wire to it and the furnace both. Which I found at the light fixture in the bedroom Above the light. I am wondering if I am supposed to have 2 separate Transformers or if I can run 2 separate Transformers to give myself more juice to help the ring video doorbell to keep   It charged?


texts: The mortar between my patio bricks is crumbling away

texts:
The bricks on my front porch have some sort of mortar that crumbles away more and more every time I pull a weed from it. You could pick this stuff away with an awl but it is not  just sand that you might put between yard pavers. The depth from the top of the bricks to this "mortar" is about half an inch and growing. I believe this patio is about 12 years old.
My questions are:

What is this stuff?
Can I add more over the top of existing?
How can I stop it from crumbling?


texts: Two hall lights not working with light switches

texts: Bought older home where tenants took various lighting fixtures with them. One was one of the hall lights. Where this fixture was there are three separate 12/2 with ground coming into it. Inside the ceiling box is the following - two black wires are together with wire nuts, a black and white wire are wire nutted together, and there are two white wires that are loose, but the way they are sorted twisted at the end, I'm thinking at one time they were wire nutted together. I'm trying to find out which wires to connect the white and black wires from new fixture to. I'm assuming that since there is a light switch at each end of the hallway, you should be able to turn on/off both lights at the same time from either light switch.


texts: I have a friend with a seam in a countertop that has misaligned after about 4 years. It's man made stone but I'm not sure what material. I would like to fix it but I'd like to know more before I try. It looks like the two sections are flat and could be removed and reinstalled but that would involve redoing the sink and backsplash. I would like to know if it's a bad idea to simply shim up the low corner 1/16th of an inch. I don't think it's from the weight of water in the sink, but from a poor leveling job from the start.


texts: Replace plywood behind outdoor meter can

texts:
My outdoor meter can and main shutoff panel are mounted on a rotting board. It looks like someone installed untreated plywood and didn't prime before painting. I'd like to replace this at some point; ideally before the panels fall off. The rubber seal on that SE wire could also use a redo.

On the one hand this seems like an easy DIY project. Unmount the panels. Replace the board. Prime and paint to match siding. Remount the panels. I would be comfortable doing all these things. But I can't get into that meter pan.

So I'm trying to figure out how many of these people I get involved: the utility (Dominion Electric), a licensed electrician, a carpenter/handyman. How would you go about getting this done with reasonable expense?

Behind the rotting board I expect to find plywood or OSB sheathing and wood studs. I was thinking to mount BCX plywood with stainless steel screws into the studs; then apply waterproof primer and exterior paint. What materials would you recommend for the replacement board?


texts: How much caulking do we need for a standard bathtub

texts: How much caulking do we need to buy to caulk the rim of a standard 30" x 60" bathtub?


texts: Is this a valid layout for a stairwell light?

texts:
My pair of lights and pair of switches was working in my basement stairwell.  I'm redoing the wiring because I added more switches but I can't get the stairwell lights working again.  The only thing I can control is how the lower switch is wired:

I haven't tried this configuration yet.  Is it the correct way to do this?

UPDATE:  Got it working tonight.  Here is the corrected diagram:


texts:
I recently moved in to a flat and need to replace some blown bulbs. From internet searches, the fittings appear to be "fixed pinhole downlights", but I cannot find any details on how to remove the cover to change the bulb.

The fittings look like this:

The slot is too narrow to fit the bulb through, and twisting / sliding the cover does nothing. Pulling downwards causes the whole fitting (including the bulb) to move; I dare not pull too much in case this isn't the right way to remove it and I damage something or make it difficult to put back.


texts: Need to cut copper pipe after removing push pull valve and replacing with sharkbite?

texts:
I'm working on replacing a kitchen sink faucet, home is 5 years old, and all of the valves are push/pull and plastic attached to 1/2" copper (I'm assuming that's the standard from online research). I replaced the faucet but now each time the motion sensor faucet shuts off while on cold, it kind of slams shut and the valve pops up, shutting the supply off. My plan is to remove the plastic push/pulls and replace them with 1/2" SharkBite x 3/8" OD (compression), metal 1/4 turn valves (link).

2 questions from this:

1) Is that a good idea? Replacing a valve that pops up when the water shuts off? Or could there be a bigger problem?

2) When I remove the push/pull plastic valve (by twisting it counter-clockwise until it comes off as I've read and seen on YouTube), do I need to cut back the copper pipe for the SharkBite to latch correctly? I'm worried about there being grooves or teeth marks from the previous plastic valve.

Thanks in advance


texts: What is the strongest way to join a deck joist to a corner joint?

texts:
I'm working on designing the support frame for a deck for my backyard.

The basic shape of the deck:

It's essentially a square with one corner chopped off.  The red line is the joist in question, the green lines are the remaining joists and the yellow(ish) lines are the stringers in between.

My question is how do I attach the red line joist to that corner joint?  I'm pretty sure there are 45 degree angle joist hangers for the rest of the joists.  Is this the best way to lay them out, or is there a better way to arrange the joists?  The decking will be installed perpendicular to the joists, or parallel with that one chopped off angle.  The joists are on 16" centers, measured off from either side of the red line joist.  The drawing is oh so very not to scale :)


texts:
I own a flat in the UK, in which I live. I own it. It's part of a block of 50 flats.

I have learned recently that there was a subsidence problem. A large tree has been drinking the water from under the building, which has started to move. Some walls show some cracks.

The freeholding company is talking with the insurance, trying to get underpinning work done.

My question is this: how serious can that be? Should I be looking to move flats because of this? Of course, I am not expecting someone to be able to answer definitively without seeing the building, but I am after a general case answer. What's the likely outcome, and what's the worse outcome?

In particular, can I be fairly certain that in the vast majority of cases, some underpinning will fix the problem? Or is it sometimes the case that a building is beyond hope, and therefore my flat could lose all its value?


texts: Add new lighting before previous lighting doesn't work

texts:
This is my current switch, light and power source and it works fine

(Red circle is wire nut for better visualization to the real scene)

I tried to add a new light BEFORE the power source but it doesn't work. In fact, there is no power at all

But if I "jump" from the Light 1 to Light 3, it works

This last scenario is not idea as I have to drill holes through joists.

What I tried to understand is why Light 2 does not work above?


texts: Noise insulation of apartment right above noisy pub

texts:
How good can you isolate an apartment that's right above a very noisy rocker's pub? Could we install a thicker floor, or would the noise go through the walls anyway?

What material would work best here? I am willing to replace the existing floor (which needs replacement anyway).


texts:
We have a corroded main water pipe that connects to a valve that goes into the house. The corroded pipe rises from the pave driveway and ends in a valve at the top.

Here's a picture:

The building inspector said this could be caused by improper grounding? Is this a cause?  What are some other causes?


texts: Would upgrading hot water radiator heating result in much better efficiency?

texts:
My wife and I are thinking about buying a funky old house where we live, in southern Ontario, and trying to prioritize upgrades. There's a lot of knob and tube to replace -- top priority -- and some old iron plumbing stacks that will probably be second tier.

Third tier gives us lots of options, but nothing mission critical like the wiring or the plumbing. One strong contender is replacing the hot water rads, which are all those old baseboard "public school" style -- large metal boxes with dials on the front -- and seem to be several decades old, at least. The boiler system seems to date from 2002 and has been inspected annually and seems to be, on cursory inspection, in good shape.

The question is obviously if there's a huge efficiency gain in upgrading them. The utility bills (for the gas-heated boiler, plus electricity) from the previous tenants seem high, but they're also fairly wealthy and quite elderly, so they may have just kept the place jacked to 80 degrees all year round without much thought to consequences. Windows are about 80% upgraded, so there's work to be done there as well, but I'm mainly wondering if replacing baseboard hot water rads with new models is a "pays for itself" upgrade or mainly an aesthetic choice.

EDIT: Here's a not dissimilar picture to what we're looking at: this style, but twice as deep (it extends twice as far from the wall), and with a knob in the middle of the vents. I've assumed the knob opens/closes some sort of valve, or controls something with the vents, but I cheerfully acknowledge that I really don't know exactly what's up with these.


texts: How to build up concrete slurry under a new bath

texts:
I'm replacing our bath. It is a standard built-in plastic bathtub, with a concrete slurry built up underneath it. I talked to a builder some time ago who explained that it was to support the weight of the bath, I guess it distributes the weight of the full bath over the floor underneath.

How to I build up the concrete underneath the bath? Do I pour the concrete first and get the bath into position before it goes off, or shovel it in with the bath already in place?


texts: Installing Kwikset Kevo on a door to control more than the deadbolt

texts:
I own door which the key not only controls the lock but also to open the door. There is no extra handle to open the actual door. You just turn they key once more and the door opens.
I wish to install a Kwikset Kevo on that door and would like to know before I buy if this is feasible and how to do it

EDIT
[
In the image above you see the inside of the door. Key position to lock the door and a handle on the side to opwn the door when unlocked.

In the above image you see how the outside of the door is. The key on the outside controls both the lock and door opening, while on the inside only locking.


texts: Water in the cooler stays at room temperature and is dispensed properly, but just does not get cold. When I plug it in, I hear a low hum. Not sure how to diagnose. Any tips? It is a basic model that has two taps, one for dispensing room temperature water, and the other should be dispensing cold water.


texts: New Eaton AFCI/GFCI breaker signals (5 blinks) ground fault, but doesn't trip. How to track it down?

texts:
Where to start?

*We bought a new house on a day's notice, and now I have to sell this 1885 Victorian. I'd like to minimize the scope of a home inspector's report.
*The house is mostly the original 2-wire, but has a modern breaker box.
*I replaced every 2-prong outlet with 3-prong outlets, so it's not to code.
*I'm an EE, but I'm stumped here...

So I just replaced the breaker for the entire upstairs (4bd/1ba) with an Eaton model# BRLAFGF115CS AFCI/GFCI breaker and planned to add the requisite stickers to each of the un-grounded outlets to meet NEC 2014 code requirements. Upon installation, I performed the initial diagnostics and received an error code on the red LED with 5 blinks, indicating a "ground fault."

This is weird, because even though the breaker indicates a ground fault on this ancient cloth-insulated wiring that must be 1000 feet long in total, this apparent ground fault is not enough to actually trip the GFCI. I mean, does that suggest it's less than 6mA? Given all the mouse hair and dust and other debris I pulled out of those boxes I entered, I'd have been surprised if I didn't have a good deal of ground leakage. The arc and GF test button does trip the breaker, but the 5-blink "ground fault" code seems to not be bad enough to actually trip the GFCI.

Of course, I unplugged everything on the circuit and turned off all the lights, retested, but I still get the 5-blink code. Eaton is no help. I wonder if the GFCI circuit is seeing leakage of less than 6mA and just letting me know, but it's not enough to trip the GFCI? I want the darn blinking to go away, but I don't want to open up 50 boxes and clean all the mouse turds and hair out of those and not solve the problem. Any thoughts? What would you do? I'm on the circuit right now -- at my computer -- so the breaker's holding just fine -- even with a few inductive/resistive loads like fans and space heaters. Weird. I'd like to get this house on the market ASAP, but I don't want to cause alarm and start smashing all this lovely 1885 plaster. This house is 99% original. My plan was to install this one breaker as a test, and then replace all the rest of the breakers that service un-grounded outlets... Also, I can't find a place to buy all those stickers I need.

Thanks in advance!

-Doogan


texts: Feedback on why constantly draining. It's starting to flood backyard

texts:
There's no leakage near/ around water heater. No slime or build up of any kind.
But there's constant hot water drainage coming out through pipe in backyard. It's starting to flood back porch area.
It's cream colored pipe coming out of wall of house.
Paper work says it's a gas fired water heater.
Any tips?


texts:
After removing wallpaper with a steamer I want to paint it, but using the least amount of paint possible.

Is there a product I could apply on the wall before painting so that one paint layer only will do?


texts: Can I use the same junction box for two appliances?

texts:
Complete noob here.

I'm finishing building my kitchen and the last part - the wiring of electrical oven and glass cooking plates, is presenting me with some challenges.

I am located in Germany.

The oven comes out with a 3 pronged cable (I guess active, neutral and ground?).

The cookers were sold to me with no cable.

There is one junction box at the intended spot in the kitchen, with 5 cable grips, which is definitely 3 phase.

I'm wondering what's the best course of action with both the oven and the cooking plates.

My thoughts so far:

Is there a way to connect the cooking plates to the same junction box as the oven somehow, without blowing things up?
If not, should I just connect them to a nearby socket with a cable ending with a regular socket plug?
What about the oven (single phase cables) vs the junction box (3 phase)?

Note: the sockets seem to have ground clips here - see picture below.


texts: What size conduit (EMT) do I need for 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 cable (SER) for a subpanel?

texts: I need to protect a ~15' run of 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 Aluminum SER between a main panel and a subpanel along a shared interior wall.  Would it be ok to use 1.5" EMT for this?  If not, what size would I need, and how would I determine this (i.e. what's the Code)?  I'm in USA. Thanks!


texts:
Would replacing old mortar for new prevent water from seeping through brickwork?

I have included photographs just in case this is a special case:


texts:
Replacing an old 3 way switch with a new dimmer 3 way switch. The old switch had 2 traveler wires connected to it (black and red), the ground wire, and the 'hot' wire. I also noticed 2 neutral wires (both white) that were bundled together and capped. Now, the new dimmer switch has the green screw (for the ground wire), and then 2 screws on each side. According to the instructions, the top left is 'neutral', the bottom left is for a traveler, the top right is for the hot wire, and the bottom right is for another neutral wire. So I'm a bit confused here - I have 2 traveler wires but only one spot on the new switch for one. There are 2 spots for neutral wires, but they are bundled together in the outlet. Thanks
FYI - this is an Eaton WFD30 smart universal dimmer...
Edit: In the pic, the 2 white wires were bundled together and capped (assume they are both neutrals), the black and red are travelers and the other white with the black tape was the 'hot' wire.
Edit 2: Added a pic of the other outlet.  Looks to be wired slightly differently than the one I was installing the dimmer on.  I can out the dimmer on this one, whatever is easier.  This one appears to have 3 white wires bundled together.


texts: Can I change a 15a breaker with a 20a breaker?

texts:
I upgraded my bathroom fan to a bigger, more powerful fan. The problem is it is on the same 15a breaker as the 2 bedrooms and the bathroom. It is connected to a light above my tub and the three wires that come up from the dual switch on the wall via a junction box.

The house was built in 1942 and the wiring from the switch to the junction box is original, so the three wires have the cloth coating but look to be copper on the inside. The wire from the fan and the wire to the light above the tub are both newer.

The problem is every time I turn on the fan or the light it blows the breaker.

I even disconnected the light above the tub and replaced the wall switch with a single switch and when I turn the fan on, all the lights dim and it then throws the breaker.

I am wondering if I can replace the 15a breaker with a 20a breaker and how would I go about doing that? I already purchased the new 20a breaker.


texts: Plug In Dimmer on Circuit with Two Wall Dimmers Malfunctions

texts:
I have a 15 amp breaker that controls:

Three bathroom incandescent vanity lights that have a wall dimmer,
Four incandescent can lights on my lanai that are controlled by four-way switches, one of which is a dimmer,
three GFCI duplex outlets on my lanai.

I have string patio lights (LED) that I am trying to control with a dimmer without success.  I have tried three different dimmer configurations

a plug-in smart dimmer,
a simple plug-in sliding lamp dimmer, and
a switch dimmer inserted into the circuit of one of the GFCI outlets.

All three dimmers have the same problem:

If the vanity lights and can lights are OFF, all three of the dimmer options for the patio string lights work as expected: they turn the lights on/off and dim them.
If I turn on either or both of the vanity lights and/or the can lights, the dimmers for those effect the dimmer for the string lights plugged into the GFCI outlet.  Even if I have the string patio lights turned off, turning on the vanity lights or the can lights will turn on the string lights plugged into the outlet. Stranger that that the dimmers on the vanity lights and the can lights will dim the string lights plugged into the outlet.
If I remove the dimmer from the string lights and merely plug them into the GFCI outlet, the switches for the vanity lights and can lights have no effect on the string lights...they don't turn the on or off and therefore don't dim them either.  It's only when I have a dimmer attached to the GFCI outlet that I experience the problem.

I have removed all three GFCI outlets from their boxes and checked that they are wired properly for line and load connections; they are.
I appreciate any thoughts on why this is happening and solutions to the problem if they exist.


texts: Why were the screws set in pairs in my drywall?

texts: I'm currently removing a wall that separates my kitchen and living room. 1/2" drywall on 16" o.c. studs, typical. What I found to be strange was that the drywall was fastened with 2 drywall screws placed 2 inches apart, in pairs about every 18" up a stud, where a single screw would definitely suffice. May be I'm overthinking it, but is there any reason someone would use so many screws for a simple wall? House is a 1990 Bi-level, or raised ranch as I've seen them called. I just want to make sure that this isn't some specialized/important wall due to the odd overuse of screws.


texts: Suggestions on finishing a concrete vault

texts:
I have a newer home that the builder put a concrete vault in.  It is basically the porch that was dug out fully to make a room under it with a steel security door.  The concrete porch is the ceiling.  There are vents into the room so I can keep circulation in it.  I would like to finish it off without taking up much space so I can use it as secure storage.  I don't need much insulation, just enough to help keep the temperature somewhat steady as I would like to store some art and guns in there.  My plan is to prep the outside walls and ceiling by painting them with DryLoc and then finishing them.

One thought is to do 2x2 walls with foam insulation glued to the concrete and then putting either sheet rock or some kind of paneling over it.

Another thought was some kind of Foam backed OSB and securing it directly to the concrete with the foam against the concrete.

I am pretty much at a loss for what to do on the ceiling.

I am not overly concerned about electrical as I will only need one or two outlets at the most and I could do them as surface mounts.

Any suggestions or ideas?


texts: Why would my well water cut off for 30 minutes before working again?

texts:
I live in a area where I have to use well water and I have a well house that runs to my home. The water work with great pressure for a while, and then suddenly stops and takes 30 minutes to come back on. I Have a well-x-Trol tank, a new pressure switch and a new pressure gauge. The water heater is rather new and I have copper and some plastic lines.

What do I need to do to fix my problem? Is it caused by the water pressure? Is the pressure too low, or too high? Is my pump bad?


texts: Can I use a single jumper wire to run to two outlets and two breakers?

texts: Situation: Have a jetted bathtub that requires 2 15A gfci outlets each to its own breaker. Problem only have one wire running into tub area (would have to tear up.newly installed floor to run another. Is it possible to use that single wire and connect two wires and run to the outlets and connect two wires to the other end of the wire (wire is approx 8 ft) and run those to the breaker box and attach to two gcfi breakers?


texts: How to create an fast and easy dimmable lamp?

texts:
I want to connect this plug to this socket using this dimmer.

I have AWG 16 wire... how would I do this? I have very little experience with electrical work


texts:
In my roof attic I have a 2" kitchen vent just inside the attic on one side of the house, the main 3" stack which vents out through the roof is on the opposite side of the house. They are about 24 feet apart.

Can I connect them or is there a restriction on a vent pipe distance to a stack?


texts: Found cabling in junction box with ground cut

texts:
I have a junction box in the garage that has cables with 12-2 with ground. However, the ground wires were clipped back to the sheathing.
Background: This is an older house with a fair amount of old cabling. As we’ve done projects and replaced fixtures, I’ve updated the cabling and in many cases also fixing circuits that didn’t have a ground.
With that said, why would the ground be cut back? Was this ever standard practice in certain cases? Is there ever a time nowadays that someone would do this?
Thanks in advance.


texts: Converting a ceiling recessed light to a wall outlet

texts:
So, Round two of this post, I've given up combining two wall outlets to 240v and realized that I need another 120v outlet to safely power everything with an 80% margin.
we have GX24Q-1 outlets for bulbs in the ceiling, hooked up to a box I can only assume is called a ballast.  I will upload pictures shortly of the wiring of the ballast, for your perusal.
The plan is to cut the main wires between the source and the ballast and add a plug or a switch.  For the plug, Female end coming from the source (Saftey First), and then 2 male ends, one to the ballast and one to an outlet.  This way I can plug the light in and no one is the wiser.
The switch option would be nice, but switches add another point of failure, so that is plan B if I have extra time and money.

Here are some assumptions, which I will verify before I begin.
1) with the light switch off, no power is being supplied to any of the wires connected to the ballast.
2) if the outlet is wired up to the line, and all the lights are on in the room (7x 32w CFL bulbs, one bathroom bar light), I will still be able to draw reasonable power from the outlet I wire in.
32*7=224, allowing 100w for the bathroom light, so 324w lights draw, 20a*120v=2400w available from the breaker,
2400w*.8(safety)=1920w is 80%,
1920w-350w=1570w safely.
3) the gauge of the wire coming to the ballast will be able to handle a 15a draw for a continuous amount of time.  I don't know the gauge required, I will need to find that out (put it in the comments)

Obviously, this is stupid and dangerous.  If all you have to say is that and don't do it, don't comment.  If you would like to offer a constructive argument why not, that would be incredibly helpful.  Below is a link to my original question, which led here.  the answer there is amazing, so thank you to the one who wrote it.  this is safer, as I have access to this breaker and am able to disable it first.

Combining 120v wall sockets to 240v

EDIT #1:

So the purple, grey, and green wires are from the source.  They go into splitters, conveniently, so Green is ground, white is neutral, and that leaves purple to be hot?


texts:
I am looking to purchase a house where the location of the washing machine is such that the drain needs to pump water to a location higher than where the washing machine would sit.

The existing drain line has a one-way flow valve installed about 2-3 feet beyond the point where the washing machine would connect to the drain. That 2-3 feet is a vertical pipe so it would seem that the water in that pipe is at risk of draining back into the washer.

We have had a general inspector and a plumber look at the setup and they both claimed it was odd and I should install a separate pump system to make sure no water drains back into the washing machine.

I've never actually owned a washing machine before, do most washers have a pump in them already? Are there special models I should look at? Or do I need another system that can prevent the back-draining?

Realized I do have a picture:


texts: Can air be trapped on the wet side of an expansion tank's diaphragm?

texts: When a water heater expansion tank is installed on a closed system with the inlet facing down, wouldn't it trap air on the water side of the diaphragm? Is there a way to bleed this air out or would that trapped air dissipate over time?


texts:
We currently have a 4 burner gas hob, but we want to switch to the electric one to make cleaning easier.

Bearing in mind that our oven is already electric, what should be considered to make this change, and is it something I can do my self?


texts: Attaching painted MDF to finished wood wall

texts: I am working on a project where I have been given painted letters made of MDF wood that need to be mounted permanently on a wall that is covered with finished ( rough ) pallet wood.  One of the requirements is that the letters cannot be screwed onto the wall ( no screws or nails visible ).  Since the MDF and wall wood are both painted/finished I figured that regular wood glue is out of the question.  Would construction adhesive be the best option for attaching these letters to the wood wall?


texts: How to fix bar stools that are too short

texts: I bought bar stool chairs but they are too short for the bar area. Is there a way to make the chair stools longer in length?


texts: Replace a single wall swich (controls light and fan) with a decora dual switch

texts:
I have 3 wires coming into a single light switch box. One is from the breaker, one goes to the fan (includes light), and I believe the other wire goes to the next switch in the circuit. The single switch currently turns the fan and light. There are no other switches in this room that control fan and light.
The wiring looks like below. I'm trying to replace the single light switch and install a Decora dual switch so I can control fan and light separately with  existing wiring. Is it possible? If not, can I add a new switch altogether (cutout the single gangbox and install a two gangbox) with the existing wires so I can have separate switches for fan and light? I'm trying to avoid running a new wire.


texts: What could have caused these cracks, and how can I repair them?

texts:
We have recently bought an old mid terraced house, early 1900s build, in the Salford, Manchester (NW England) area.

We have two cracks as follows:

Front upstairs bedroom:  The crack runs diagonally downwards in the alcove wall which adjoins onto next door, from the top of the chimney breast to approximately a third way up the wall into the corner where it adjoins to the front elevation of the property wall.

There does not seem to be a crack downstairs in the front living room to match or line up with the crack.

Front living room:   there is a vertical crack in the corner of the front elevation wall with the hallway wall.

Do you have any ideas on what the cause of both cracks may be and what the remedy is?


texts:
Toilet is only several months old and now it's running like crazy. The water leaks into the bowel all day. Been weeks now, and for some reason it leaves dirt streaks on the bowel from tank. The trickle is so loud, something has to be done.

update: week later, my other bathroom toilet stopped working (no water goes into tank), im thinking all this is because of the sediment that came with the water.


texts: Small geyser coming out of the basement floor

texts:
My house is 40 years old. I have had basement flooding issues for years. With heavy rain, water comes out of my floors. I have a sump pump that takes care of it. Despite knowing better, Ive been able to ignore it. It hasn't caused any problems. My washer and dryer are the only things down there. However, this morning I started down the stairs and I heard water running. To my dismay, I found a small geyser about 3 inches coming out of the corner of the basement.

I am a little worried because this last summer my garage patio started to get a small crack in it. However, one morning I went to back out of the garage only to find about a 3 foot wide hole had fell in. It was about 6 foot deep. (Thank God for back-up cameras.) I was informed there was an old well there and I had it fixed. Last week another crack appeared in the same spot. I also noticed a crack above a bedroom door at the other end of the house.

The water coming into the basement is about 50 foot from my patio. Should I be worried that the problem is a sink hole and not a water well? Could this problem be diagnosed and fixed for a reasonable amount of money? I have not found a similar problem on the internet.


texts: plastic vapor barrier on basement ceiling - is it optional?

texts:
I have a finished basement where the builder added a plastic vapor barrier between the fiberglass insulation and a suspended ceiling.  It is stapled to the joists.

The problem is the vapor barrier gets in the way of maintenance and ends up torn (or filled with mouse debris).  I recently installed a new circuit and needed to run the wire on the joists in the ceiling.  I had to pull out a bunch of the vapor barrier.

Additionally - the suspended ceiling supports have to penetrate the vapor barrier.  Does this mean it was leaky to begin with and likely didn't work anyway?

Since I have owned the house I don't think the vapor barrier has ever been 100% intact - and now it's even more so.  Is this a problem?


texts: Replacement supports, removing old partial walls

texts:
My old kitchen used to be divided into two rooms with a wall separating the rooms.
At some point, most of wall was removed, however, they kept some portions extending out.
east wall - extension comes out 6.5"
west wall - extension comes out 21.5"
ceiling - extension comes down 9"
width of extensions: 5"

We removed some drywall on the extensions to find a newish horizontal beam supported by 2 newish vertical posts. Within west extension there is also gas pipe, condensation pipe, and conduit running vertically - these are between the west vertical post and west side wall.

PHOTOS https://photos.app.goo.gl/RmgfkaA8cPy2sxgU6

Goal: to either remove extensions entirely or at least reduce depth so they don't stick out so far from side walls, while minimizing the amount of destruction.

My carpenter wants to add new horizonal beam above the ceiling going into side walls & 2 new support posts inside west & east walls. He would also move pipes into west wall.

But I'm wondering if there is another option that would be less work. I'm not a builder so I'm no expert but my idea is:
 -running new horizontal beam full width across into west and east walls.
   -This new beam would run parallel to the existing old beam.
   -In the side walls, this new beam would be supported by new posts.
   -At that point, we can remove the old horizontal beam & vertical posts.
   -The existing vertical pipes would not get moved but more effectively "bundled" and pushed closer to west wall.
   -I would still need to have an extension of maybe 8" coming out of west wall & there would be the new horizontal beam replacing old horizontal beam. At least the east extension goes away.

Is this idea "significantly" easier, less risky, less expensive?


texts:
I have a heat pump and want to add a thermostat that requires a common wire.  I have read through many threads that show how to add a wire but I already have a few extra in the bundle so its not so much as running a new wire but where to connect it on the control board.

I have attached a picture and highlighted an area where I think it might go but wanted to check here prior as to ensure I don't mess something up.


texts: How to keep two water tanks have maintain the same water level?

texts:
My home has two water tanks (side by side), one used by the owner and one used by us. Unfortunately for us, the owner has a good supply of water and we don't. I have asked him to connect the two tanks at the bottom through a pipe so that we too would get enough water, but he doesn't want to as he thinks its too much work.
Now, I am looking for a way to connect the two tanks somehow, so that the water level in them is the same at all times. I know that I can use a pipe to suck out water and put it in my tank to level the tanks temporarily. However, this doesn't work in the long run. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Edit:
These two tanks are on the top of a three storied building.


texts: Installing sensor dimmer to replace bathroom light switch beside fan switch

texts:
I'm trying to install a Lutron Maestro sensor dimmer to replace an existing bathroom light switch (on the left in picture) that is beside a fan switch (on the right in picture), however I can't seem to make sense of the wiring because:

1) the upper terminal of the light switch has two wires leading to it (from what I've read it might be the Jumper taking power to the fan switch?)

2) the existing switch doesn't appear to be grounded as there is no wire attached to the green screw on either of the switches. I also can't seem to find a screw in the metal box that would be used to ground the switch.

I've attached a picture of the existing setup and the new sensor dimmer I'm trying to install.

Many thanks in advance!!


texts: Can I put my air conditioner on a light switch?

texts:
I have a window mounted air conditioner that turns on and off by twisting a knob on the front of it, it's not a smart a/c, it's either on or off. It's not always convenient to get up and turn it on or off (for instance in middle of the night).

I was wondering if it would be safe to put it on a switch (light switch controlled outlet or a cord switch)?

I'm just not sure if the unit is likely to do any kind of shutdown procedure or if it just cuts the power when I turn the knob.


texts: How do I install a new, non load bearing wall in my basement?

texts: I'm looking to finish my basement and simply want to wall off the concrete blocks that make up the wall. I want to insulate it as well so that it becomes a usable family room when I'm done. How do I go about installing a wall given wooden beams in the ceiling and a concrete floor?


texts: Why does water appear just below my basement slab in one location and not another?

texts:
We recently purchased a house and inherited a "5 gallon lowes bucket shoved into a hole with gravel" sump pit. It sits approximately halfway across the width of our basement. There is consistently water in it 12 inches down from the slab. The water level rises and falls with rainfall/seasons, doesn't appear to be any sort of water leak. If I pump it to empty, it immediately returns to where it was before. Okay, cool, water table is 12 inches down, got it.

I finally got the motivation to dig a larger sump pit in the corner under the front side of our basement, in one of the lowest points I measured in basement. It's around 20 feet away from the current bucket-pump. I dug 35 inches down. No water. As I write this there's still water 12 inches from slab in old spot, no water 35 inches down from slab in new spot. There's no drain tiles or anything leading to the old spot, and the ground is like dirt, not particularly clay-like. Does gravity not exist under my house? Is the first pit like, supersaturated or something and acting as a mini-pond that's collected during rainy season?

I hope someone has the answer, it's driving me crazy!


texts: Light Switch with 2 black wires and one red

texts:
I'm trying to replace a double switch (controls fan and light separately) with a single pole dimmer for a chandelier. It seems there is no ground, but there are 2 red and just 1 black running to the current double switch?

Should I just cap off one red wire, attach one red to the red on my dimmer, and attach the black to the black on the dimmer?


texts:
I was considering the purchase of a 1/2" electric impact wrench. The first application is to change out an anode rod for an electric water heater.

I was looking at some online, and the torque given in the specs between battery powered and wired versions is very close. The battery power specs claimed for a particular model said 4800 in-lb)] vs the wired version with 4140 in-lb.

I already have the battery that would fit the battery powered tool. Would either work just as well? Am I missing something (other than how long you can use it before the battery is drained)?

I also have a 1/4" impact driver with 1400 in-lb, would it work OK for this job?

I ask because I was reading in a Family Handyman magazine that you often need an impact driver to break the bolt loose. I haven't tried it yet with hand tools.


texts:
I want to install a lamp with 4 cable, namly two brown, one blue and a yellow-green cable:

Out of my wall I found 4 cable (yellow-green, blue, brown and black):

I tried to connected the lamp as follows (Left side the lamp, right side my wall):

blue-blue
brown-brown
brown-black

And

blue-blue
brown-black
brown-brown

I didn't connect the yellow-green cable because I just wanted to check if the lamp works. However with both combinations, the light didn't go on. Did I do something wrong?


texts:
We recently purchased a condo that used to be a rental unit and balcony reeks of pet urine. I cannot completely tell the type of material used for the flooring but  it looks like it’s epoxy sand or small pebble that has been paved over the plywood.
To hide or mask the smell, I was thinking about going over it with Kilz primer and then installing tiling over it. However, I wasn’t sure if primer could be used over this type of surface.
Would this proposed idea work for hiding the smell or would I run into issues with the primer adhering to this surface?


texts: Sizing HVAC: 3 vs 2.5 ton AC, 60k vs 40k BTU furnace for 1200sqft?

texts:
I'm adding a HVAC system to my single-storey SFH (1200sqft in climate zone 2, San Jose, CA) and the contractor picked out the following system:

Furnace: 60k BTU @ 80% Efficiency
AC: 3 Ton @ 14 SEER

Got me wondering if it's overkill for 1200sqft? General sqft-to-BTU load calculators indicate I would be enough served by going a bit smaller. Let's say insulation is medium in terms of quality and installation. Would it then be better to go for a size down?

Furnace: 40k BTU @ 96% efficiency
AC: 2.5 Ton @ 16 SEER

Edit: Did a Manual J calc from loadcalc.net myself. Input R11 insulation in ceiling, and walls, floor tile no insulation, stucco, and double pane windows. Based on the wall dimensions and directions, it came back with only 20k and 17k BTUs for heating and cooling! Not sure if I missed something big here, any advice or is this pretty realistic?


texts: Corrosion around hot water heater connection?

texts:
I installed an electric hot water heater about 3-4 weeks ago. Everything has been operating without problem and there have been no detectable leaks around the water connections into and out of the water heater. However, I discovered what could be some corrosion starting on the hot water side. The connection is a stainless steel flex pipe without tape or compound (the pipe's tag said not to use any). I believe the hot water side connections are galvanized steel.

Is it possible for corrosion to form so quickly and if so what should I do about it? My first thought was to disconnect, cleanup, and try again with a new line. How quickly should I act?


texts: Plastic fitting cracked in kitchen faucet supply line

texts: The fitting is cracked along its base as you can see in the picture.  This is the faucet-end of a quick connect fitting (the other side goes to the spray hose).  I'm hoping to not have to replace the entire line.  Is there a way to repair the split?  Or cut the tubing and replace the fitting itself?


texts: This house is being sold, a home inspection has noted that the neutral and branch circuit ground wires are landed on the same bar in the sub panel at the detached garage,it is feed with 3 wires from the main. This house was built in the 80's. My question is what is the fix? Is there an exception that will allow this to be left as is? Am I required to separate the existing connections, and add a 4th wire back to the main panel?


texts: Cheaper to run central heating sporadically high or constantly low?

texts:
My central heating has a thermostat dial ranging from 10 to 30 degrees Celcius. I'm wondering whether it's likely to be cheaper to crank it up to 30, and turn it on for, say, an hour, 3/4 times per day, or to turn it down to say, 15, and leave it on all day.

Thoughts?


texts: Wiring a sub-panel with an equal sized breaker on each end of the feed, which will trip first?

texts:
I'm wiring up a small backyard tiny house for use as a rental.  Main power will be supplied by a 30A breaker and 10/2 wire coming from the main house, to an RV box, then to an RV plug, then into the sub panel in the tiny house where it feeds a couple of 20A circuits.

So heres the issue, with this amount of power, popping the breaker will happen from time to time, and I want the person in the house to be able to reset it there. (I can't be the first person to have this issue with sub panels)

If I didn't care about electrical code, I'd just go ahead and put an oversized breaker at the main panel and backfeed the sub panel through a 30A single pole breaker.   I like to keep things as compliant as I can though, so I'm trying to figure out if there is a different way to do this.  It's too bad they don't make 29 amp breakers or I could just backfeed the subpanel with one of those and the problem would be solved!  Maybe it's not an issue?  in this scenario if I had a 30 amp breaker on BOTH ends of the 100' 10/2 line, which breaker would trip first, the one in the main panel or the one in the sub panel?  Any ideas for how to do what I'm trying to do here?

thanks for any replies!


texts: What screws should I use for my floating Ikea bookshelf?

texts:
I recently purchased a floating bookshelf from Ikea. The following links are to the bookshelf and to the assembly directions of the bookshelf.

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40103751/

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/assembly_instructions/lack-wall-shelf__AA-10128-11_pub.pdf

I will be placing books on these shelves that weigh about 40-45 pounds.

My walls are 1/2inch Drywall.

Originally I wanted to use toggle bolts but I'd rather use something that's less damaging to the wall.

The shelf takes 16 screws so I decided to go with this threaded anchor.

Do you guys think that if I use 16 of these threaded anchors, in the assigned spots indicated by the manufacturer, then the floating bookshelf will be able to hold up the 45 pounds of books that I'll be placing on it?


texts: Outside hose bibb with very fine thread?

texts:
I'm in a newly purchased house built 1998.  It has three outside hose bibbs, two are standard garden hose thread but one has a very fine thread that does not match either "Hose" or "Pipe" thread.  I looked at Home Depot and they have all sorts of adapters for various types of threads, but nothing matching this.

Here's a picture showing the hose bibb next to a standard hose thread.

What is this thread, and what kind of adapter do I need?


texts:
I need to hang a light fixture from my ceiling some distance away from its electrical box.  The fixture weighs less than 10 lbs and my ceiling is made of drywall.

I'm generally comfortable using drywall anchors for shear loads on vertical walls, but I'm unsure about how much weight the various designs of wall anchors can handle for pull loads.  I've done some internet searches but haven't found anything definite.

Can someone tell me how much pull-force the various common designs of wall anchors can handle?

EDIT:  To clarify what I am trying to do, see picture below.  It's not my light, but it illustrates the concept.


texts: How should kitchen units be fitted to accommodate walls not perpendicular?

texts:
So I got a carpenter to fit a stud wall which butts up against a brick wall of the house.  (I could've done it but I thought I'd get a pro so it was perfectly plumb and straight.)

It's all plastered with the plumbing and wiring behind, so now I assemble the kitchen units to go into the corner where the stud wall meets the house and I find it's 100 degrees rather than perpendicular!

So if I put the units flush to the walls, there's a triangular gap between them where they join, tapering out away from the wall.  Or if I screw them together at 90 degrees, the units will meet the walls in the very corner but at least one of them must come out an inch away from the wall by the time it gets a metre from the corner.

What's the best way to accommodate this?  I'm thinking I have no choice but to put the units flush to both walls and then join the worktops over the top at 100 degrees too!


texts: We have used Filter sand for construction , Is there a problem in this sand?

texts: We have used filter sand to construct our home and for mold we have used trichy sand, The building is almost completer just final Flor is pending, Now many people come to me and say that we are using wrong sand this sand is not so good for construction. Is there anything I can do about this Please do let me know if there is anything.


texts: Want to know how hex bit shank works and the history behind it's design

texts:
I have tried to search this in google but I haven't found a complete explanation, so I ask this here. I also have read other answers related with hex bit socket, but it still not satisfied.

How the mechanism in screwdriver hold the hex bit? The specific part that I'm asking is the groove area in the bottom part of this image:

I have screwdriver like in this image:

I noticed that the bits and the screwdriver bar (that have notches in its side) all have 1/4 inch size. Also, the screwdriver can hold the bit from the first image securely. And when I browse the cordless screwdriver and impact drivers, all have the same 1/4 inch hex chunk.

There is an article in Wikipedia about Hex shank, but it doesn't explain about the groove part of the bits, and what the history behind its design.

I'd like to know the mechanism inside the screwdriver to do this. I also want to know the history of why we stick with 1/4 inch size. While in the wrench, we had 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, and 1/2 inch male square head:


texts: Should I turn off the cold water while replacing a hot water faucet stem?

texts:
When I'm fixing or replacing the hot-water valve stem in a 2-handle bathroom faucet, do I need to turn off the cold water as well as the hot water, or is turning off the hot water sufficient?

I'm assuming I have to turn off both, but wanted to make sure it was needed, because the bathroom has 2 sinks but only one cold-water shut-off valve.


texts: Can I convert my shop to 220v? My shop has 110v ran to it with no sub panel. I would like to add a sub panel to my shop and run 220v from it for my air compressor and 110v for my lighting. Or what is your take on buying a 5000 watt converter?


texts: Is it better to use thin-set or self-leveling concrete on top of a shower pan, mud-bed to improve the slope and make it smoother for final tile layer?

texts:
Issue:
I am looking to improve the smoothness of my my concrete mud-bed before I lay my thin-set and tile.  The mud-bed has dried, but there are some dips and divots that make it difficult for me to make the tile job smooth while maintaining the slope.  I keep finding myself left with imperfect spots in the tile floor where water pools and that I have to push towards the drain with my foot (for example, one side of the drain is level but the other side dips below the drain and is not flesh).  I have ripped the tile and thin-set up twice now.  This time I am considering adding about another half-inch layer to (1) smooth the concrete surface and for my thin-set and tile job, and (2) improve the slope (if I can)

Question:
(1) Should I apply a 1/2 inch layer of self leveler on the dried concrete bed to accomplish this?  Or
(2) Should I apply a 1/2 inch layer of thin-set to smooth the surface, let it cure, and then lay my thin-set, score and tile? Or
(3) Is this issue simply a matter of being more skillful in laying my tile on the concrete bed; or
(4) is ripping out the concrete bed, and starting fresh the only way to fix?

Background and steps of installation so far:
I am putting the final touches on a small walk in shower with a curb.

I had some professionals frame, drywall (cement board), water-proof, etc.  I shopped around for tile-laying prices and decided that I’m better off trying myself, even if I wind up having to rip some tile and re-lay.  I have the walls up fine.  The floor, of course, has given me minor issues.  I’m at the finish line though and am determined to finish it off.

First Try:
First, the learning experiences came when I used pre-mixed thin-set for the shower floor tile.  The first time I payed the shower floor I used a mosaic penny tile.  The slope seems okay because the water drained fine.  There were a few areas, however, where water sat due to uneven tile.  Nevertheless, after about two months, we noticed the floor became squishy in some areas where the water gathered and sat.  Since I didn’t like how the white penny tile looked against my blue walls, I was happy to rip it up.  The mortar and tile came up very easy (should have been my first clue), and the cement bed was unscathed.

Potential Problems:
I tried to diagnose the issue, and concluded that the problem was either (1) because there were spots where dried thin set poked through the grout, causing a thinner layer of grout than need be, and allowing water to seep through, (2) the uneven areas of the tile floor caused the grout to break and water to seep through; or (3) perhaps I even covered the weep holes which blocked water from reaching the drain.

Second try:
I determined the weep holes were not blocked because the water drained when i let water get around the edges after I removed the tile.  So I took made better tile cuts (and used a better looking mosaic tile) and it turned out great, and less uneven (but still had some uneven areas around the drain).  Over time, the tile
Shifted because, yet again, the floor became mushy.  The grout popped up and water got underneath the tile.  So, I read the back of the pre-mix thin-set label, and of course, it says to not use on floors and areas with heavy water immersion.

Upcoming third attempt:
This time, I am determined to get the floor even and avoid pools of water.  I bought a different thin-set to use (kerabond T by mapei mixed with keraply) and a different grout (ultra color plus FA by mapei), that I am using for a mosaic octagon tile.

Any recommendations on how to fix these problems would help!  Also, if anyone spotted any other potential issues that might be the cause to mushy tiles, please let me know.  If there are deeper rooted issues that I am not noticing, might be time to bring in professional help.

Thanks everyone!


texts: We were given a new fibreglass door but it is RH instead of LH.  How do we change the window so it will be facing the right direction?


texts: Cordless lawn mower briefly starts then cuts out

texts:
I have an Echo CLM-58v cordless electric push lawnmower. It's worked fine for ~1.5 years, however when I took it out of storage this spring it stopped working. When I start it, it gets a brief burst of power, less than a second, then cuts out completely. The burst of power is enough to get the blade spinning, but it slows to a stop shortly after the power cuts out.
I've checked the wiring harness, everything seems intact. I've checked the circuitboard that handles voltage regulation and the switches and it looks intact as best I can tell (the housing doesn't come off so it's hard to see). I checked the battery and it reports as fully charged and the multimeter says it is at 57.1 volts out of the supposed 58 volts, which seems fine to me. I also checked both the power switches and they have continuity when pressed, so I don't think it is them cutting out. There is a third safety switch I haven't tested for continuity, but when it isn't pressed and I try to start nothing happens.
Has anyone else experienced this issue or have any idea what might be up with it?


texts:
I've just moved into a new flat which has a combi-boiler taking cold water in at mains pressure, and I'm trying to understand how it works. Specifically, I'm trying to understand how I can get maximum water pressure to my shower.

My questions are:

There are effectively two temperature controls for the water supply to my shower: the shower's control, and the boiler's control. Now, I imagine that the shower's cold water comes straight from the mains at mains pressure, whereas the shower's hot water comes from the boiler at a lower pressure. So to get the highest shower pressure, I would want the most amount of the cold water, and the least amount of the hot water. To achieve this, I should set the boiler to its maximum temperature, and the shower's temperature control to only let in a small amount of hot water. Does this make me sense? Or will the shower pressure be the same for any combination of boiler / shower controls?
The combi-boiler has a pressure dial, with instructions on how to increase the pressure. Is this representing the water pressure for the central heating, or for the hot water supply to my shower, or for both? And will increasing this water pressure then result in higher pressure to my shower?

Thanks!


texts: The last few day's I had the main breaker triped a few times, I checked the amps with a multimeter and when the central air conditioner turns on it draws 150! amps for 1 second and then goes down to 20, its breaker is a double 50A breaker and the main is 125A. So is this the cause or its normal that when turning on it should go up so high and maybe the breaker is designed so?


texts: I am at my breaking point on how to take this shower handle off. Its a delta and I need to replace some o-rings in it to stop my leaking faucet. I dont seem to see a set screw anywhere on this thing at all. I took off the backing plate to still find nothing. How do i take this thing off so i can access the inside?? Thanks in advanced for any help at all! Its a Delta, Monitor, and it says 13/14 Multichoice on it!


texts: 3 Way Dimmer Switch Shuts Off When Dimmer Is Above 60% when turning on after inactivity

texts:
I've researched as well as I could existing posts on this site for 3-way switch configurations and installing a dimmer switch that seem to describe a similar problem, but they always seem to be unresolved or lack enough detail. I have a relatively new home (built 2016) and in the main TV room we have a ceiling fan. The lights can be controlled at 3 different switches around the room. I have had a Lutron Toggler 150-Watt Single-Pole/3-Way CFL-LED Dimmer switch on the main switch plate for about a year [my definition of main plate is the one that is 1.) closest distance-wise to the garage where the breaker box is and generally gets the most action with turning the light on and off based on room placement and 2.) also has a switch to turn the fan on and off].

For whatever reason, if the light has been turned off for awhile, say, overnight, when it is initially turned on if the dimmer toggle is above about 60% or so, when the light is switched on at any wall switch in the room the lights come on and then turn off in about 1 second. You can sort-of hear a "click" when this happens. Occasionally if you keep turning the light off and on it will 'catch' and the light will stay on. If the dimmer toggle is near max (say 90%) it won't ever 'catch', and you'll have to go turn it down on the main switch.

HOWEVER - seems like this is a key detail - if the light has been on for awhile and is 'warmed up', you can push the dimmer toggle up to 100% and the light stays on fine - no issue. The described issue only happens if the light has been off for awhile and is then turned on (e.g., we come home, or first thing in the morning).

I had a Lutron switch on there for a year and thought maybe there was something wrong with it, so bought another identical Lutron switch and replaced it, but it still does the same thing. I took the original switch I had in the TV room and put it in our master bath which has two light fixtures controlled by one switch (ultimately more wattage overall), and it works just fine (that setup just had one switch total to turn the lights on and off).

I have the switch in the TV room wired up just as the original stock one was that was installed when the house was built.

Any of the help info and the instructions only speak to issues where, such as,
+ Bulbs turn off while being dimmed.
+ Bulbs turn on at high light level but do not turn on at a low light level.
+ Bulbs flicker or flash when dimmed to a low light level

but nothing with the issue I'm having. The new one has the Dimming Range Adjustment as shown on the linked product page but that makes no difference with my issue.

I saw a few threads on this forum that seemed to suggest similar issues but the threads never resolved, and the original poster did not include enough information to discern e.g. if the switches or house were new or old, etc, so I started a new one to provide more detail.

The ceiling fan light has three 60w incandescent ceiling fan-style bulbs (smaller), so wattage shouldn't be an issue with what the switch is rated for  (and as mentioned, the original switch I moved to the master bath and it works fine with double the number of light bulbs)

The switch works fine, except for this extremely annoying aspect.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Can I mix acrylic paint with latex paint?

texts:
I have a gallon of interior latex paint (with primer mixed in) and a gallon of interior acrylic paint (with primer mixed in). The color I want is somewhere in between the two.

Can I blend these two paints together? Will it affect how it dries or how long it will last?

The internet yields inconsistent and confusing results. Also this answer implies acrylic and latex paints are the same, but I'm not sure if it's the same context (I don't know what "water dispersion paint" is).


texts: Lowering the basement, water table 2 metre deep

texts:
My house is constructed on the side of a slope where the top of the slope is built the road.

I'd like to dig out the basement which is not high enough to stand in mostly, and is just clay.  As part of the repiling work on the outside, and most downhill area of the house, we dug down 3 m and hit the water table probably about 2 m down.  Overnight this fills with about 2000 litres of water which we have to pump out.  We dug this hole to get access to a sewer.

My question is, is it safe enough to dig out half a metre or so with the water table another 1.5 m or more below that to build a room?  I guess the builder would put down a water proof membrane and polystyrene insulation before laying the concrete slab for the basement.

And as for the hole that we've dug out, before we refill it with hard fill, should we bother about getting some drains laid to take the water away faster?  It is flowing down the section 3.5 m or so, and seeping out of the slope into a small surface drain which is then draining into a stream.


texts:
We're looking at getting some landscaping work done in the front yard to remedy some drainage issues.  Two years ago we got an inspection of a septic system that is underneath the front yard done, and the report came back saying it was in pretty bad shape.  Still, every year we have the tank pumped and they say that it's still working as designed and looks pretty good overall.  We notice no issues inside the house that would lead us to believe the system requires immediate attention.

So my question is: is there a case to be made for replacing a septic system before it has failed completely?  The landscaping people say that the two projects aren't likely to interfere with each other but it bothers me to think that we might do this work only to rip up the entire front lawn.

System is ~42 years old (eek)


texts:
See the image below. This is from a lamp. Clearly it needs some kind of adapter to go into an outlet (I assume it came with one many years ago). Any idea what the name is of the kind of adapter I need? And do I need to pay attention to voltage, watts, etc when making the purchase?

Here's the label that sits right under the lamp. It reads 50W Smaller 12V Type T Bulb, with various markings underneath it.

And finally, here's the lamp itself.


texts: What tool should I use to cut metal roofing?

texts:
I'm getting ready to install metal roofing on my building project. Wee! But I'm not sure how I should cut it.

The roof is a simple gable, 20ft long, with 8ft rafters. The roofing I'm using is 3ft wide, and length is in 1ft increments.

I'll need to trim all the panels them to length (taking off an inch or so). 2 panels I'll cut to width. I'll also need to cut the trim pieces to length.

I figure a total of about 60 linear feet of cuts. All are straight, and nearly all are square to the edge of the material.

The roofing is 29ga steel. Here's the manufacturer's product page: http://www.championmetal.com/Default.aspx?Redir=ProductTypePage&id=1&Type=Ultra-Panel#

My friend is storing an air compressor with me, so air-powered tools are an option. I'd need to buy fittings and an air hose, though.

I do own red (left) aviation snips, but for this much cutting, I think I'd buy yellow (straight) snips for ease of use.

The manufacturer gives this guidance:

  Steel roofing and trim should be cut with nibblers, tin snips or a
  profile shear. Although Champion Metal of WA. does not advocate the
  use of a saw, the reality is many people use a power saw in some
  manner. There are two concerns when using a saw. First, be sure that
  no burrs are left on the ends of the panel. The rough edges are not
  protected and will rust. Second, the filings coming off the blade are
  hot and will adhere to the surface of the panels and these will rust.
  Be sure all filings are removed from the surface as they will rust and
  pit the surface of the sheet.

Should I just use hand-snips? Buy an drill attachment? A metal blade in a circular saw? Buy an electric- or air-powered tool? Try to rent something? Maybe the roofing dealer will loan a cutting tool?


texts: Wiring a PigTail off a GFI outlet for 60Watt light bulb

texts:
I would like to install a 60W light for my coat closet. I can gain access to a GFI outlet on the outside wall of the closet. When I went to open up the outlet I noticed quite a mess of wires. I don't have a picture so I will explain in full detail. There are 3 cables (three blacks, three whites and three grounds) connected into the GFI.

One set of wires is going in to the "LINE" the second set goes into the "LOAD". The last set is pigtailed into the "LOAD" as well.

I am not sure if I can pigtail another line into the LOAD or should I take it from the LINE side? I dont want to overload the gfi and there is no other power source I can grab from that's close.


texts: Can I use epoxy resin to fix a metal hook to a uPVC door, to stop it blowing in the wind?

texts:
I have a uPVC back door which often blows in the wind. I want to fix a hook and eye similar to this to the exterior surface so I can leave it open and clip it to the wall.
Will epoxy resin such as Araldite do this job? The door is about 22 sq ft and the max wind speed here is about 25 mph. Using the generic formula at WikiHow I get a wind load of about 70 pounds.
Say the gluing area of the hook is about 1 sq inch. Will a general-purpose epoxy do the job?


texts: How do I drywall over a partial cement wall?

texts:
I have 9' walls and the bottom foot or so is cement on one wall. What's the best method to drywall over this wall so no moisture seeps in?

As you can see, there was moisture seeping in down at the bottom below the window. I planned on using a moisture barrier on it, but I'm not sure if this is the best idea out there.


texts:
This is a really weird issue and I am wondering if this is normal or if something is messed up with my plumbing.

Anyways, twice now I have had to shut off the hot and cold water in different areas of my house in order to replace something. I then reconnect the cold and turn it on to test it before moving on to the hot water only to have water come out of the hot water pipe as if I had turned it on instead of the cold.

Hope someone out there has an answer to this.

Thanks!