texts: How to Fill Gaps Between Hardibacker and Drywall?

texts:
Trying to figure this out.

I am going to be using Hardibacker for wet areas around the tub-shower above the acrylic tub/shower surround, and drywall for the rest of the room.

There will be no tile.

The whole room will be painted.

What should I use for the gaps where the drywall and the Hardibacker meet?

Thank you for your time.


texts: How to turn the contact rings in an empty fluorescent bulb socket from closed to open?

texts: A fluorescent bulb was improperly removed from its sockets. I am unable to turn the contact rings from the closed to the open position. I would be thankful for any advice.


texts: Wood on top of .5" tempered glass coffee table

texts: I want to put a slab of wood on top of my .5" x 39.5" long x 21.75" wide x 13.75" high tempered glass coffee table. Will it hold it?


texts:
I have 1 light switch and 1 outlet in a 2 gang box in the kitchen.
The old gfci outlet stopped working so I replaced it with another but it still doesn't work.  The new outlet is gfci too and I can't get it to reset, nothing happens, no light comes on.  I have a multi-meter with a non-contact voltage detector that I ran over the non-working gfci outlet and it lights up showing that there is voltage present.  I swapped the white and black wires to outlet to see if they did it backwards, as they did elsewhere in the house, but it still won't work. What could be going on here? What are my options?

The light switch works so I was thinking of piggy backing from the light switch to the outlet or taking the wires from the light switch and putting them in the outlet and piggy backing to the switch.  Does it matter which is first?

Also, what is going on with the grounding here?  They didn't ground the light switch and they tied both grounds together to the outlet?

Lastly, how can I tell if the black wire is actually hot and white is neutral as it seems that they wired it backwards elsewhere in the house.

Thanks


texts: Can I use heat gun to remove wall paint?

texts:
I have a section of wall in the kitchen near the window where several layers of paint are peeling off. It is an interior wall, most likely plaster over brick.
Using a paint/wall scraper will be hard work and will require a lot of effort to peel so many layers.
Using a chemical stripper will give off fumes.
Can I use a heat gun on my kitchen wall, or is it only for food?


texts: What is the right way to run ethernet wiring and electrical wiring in a house?

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Im currently planning to build a 2nd floor in my home, I already know how to do the electrical wiring design according to the norm, however im wondering if its possible to run the ethernet cables together with the electrical ones, common sesnse says no due to posible noise from the AC lines, however the ethernet works with digital signals so im still wondering if its possible or shouls be done , but i would like to hear some opinions about the topic

I will install little server room in the second floor, in order to have conectivity, IP cameras and a DVR in the near future, everything will be using PoE


texts:
I have a GFCI circuit (GFCI breaker in the breaker box). If I attempt to test this circuit by plugging in my GFI Tester into a standard outlet that is on this GFCI circuit, the GFI Tester lights illuminates showing the proper wiring, however, it does not trip the GFI breaker in the breaker box if I press the test button on the GFCI Tester.
If I press the test button on the GFCI Breaker, it does kill the power to the outlets on that circuit.
So, my question is, what should happen at the breaker box on this circuit when I press the GFI test button on the GFCI Tester? I thought it should trip the breaker or cause the test button at the GFCI breaker to trip but it doesn't.
Does this mean that a device plugged into the receptacle is Not protected or is it still protected even though the breaker doesn't trip?
I have noticed that on another circuit that has a GFCI Receptacle (but not a GFCI Breaker), that if I plug in the GFCI Tester in either that receptacle or one beyond the GFCI Receptable and press the Test button on the GFCI Tester that it trips the GFCI test switch in the GFCI Receptacle.


texts: What should I do about this bowing foundation wall?

texts:
I'm currently in the process of buying my first home, and I found a property on the market that was priced significantly less than most homes in the area. The seller's justification for this was a bowing foundation wall. Other than this issue, I really like the house and it fits a lot of needs.

I took a look at the wall, and from my research, it seems pretty bad. There is a large horizontal crack running from the center to the right side of the wall, which seems to indicate an excess of lateral pressure, likely from rainfall. I put a beam up against the wall vertically to measure how much the wall has bowed, and it's a little over 5" (meaning from the base of the wall to the peak of the bulge).

My general research tells me that, in terms of bowing (the wall is bowing, not leaning), under 1" is not a huge concern, 2" something should be done immediately, and anything past 4" likely means the wall will need major repairs, most of which involve excavating soil on the other side of the wall (which would be very difficult in this case due to the house being on a hill).

How bad is this, and what, if anything, can I do myself to fix it? Common solutions I've seen are carbon fiber strips, steel beams, a steel anchor, or rebuilding the wall entirely, although I'm not sure which would be recommended here. Thanks all!


texts: What size is the fuse on a watermaster/orbit sprinkler timer box? Blinking red

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I've got a "watermaster" old sprinkler timer box.  Fuse blew, it's got a blinking red light, what replacement fuse can I use?
Appears same size as this box:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgYUyxFnlaY
It says "750mA slow burn" near the fuse location.


texts: My RO water filter system has three filters. What is the fourth filter?

texts:
I have a Cuno SQC3 reverse osmosis system. The three obvious filters for replacement on the left are the:

prefilter - 47-55706G2
RO membrane - 66-4703G2
postfilter - 47-55710G2

However, in this picture you see there is a fourth module inline with the water line (on the ground). It doesn't have a identifier on it. Just says "flow" to show direction of water. Does this need to be replaced? Currently my water is coming out very slowly with the filters being 2 years old.


texts: What is the most durable ferrous metal pipe against heat?

texts: ***UPDATE***I have researched passive fireplace air heaters. The pipes are configured in a "C" shape. There are between 4-6 pipes joined side-by-side at the top and bottom with plates. The wood and than fire is built in the crook of the pipes. When placed correctly the lower openings pull in the rooms cool air were it is heated from the fire. It re-enters the room from the top pipe opening.   If you notice the thin pipe walls in the photo I don't see this product lasting more than a few fires before the fire degrades the metal. To me, the pipes in the photo appear to be similar to fence posts from a chain link fence or automotive muffler pipe.     I'm planning a build that would follow this design and would like to know what weld-able (arc or MIG) or braze-able  pipe material would be the most durable? Durable as far as being able to withstand being heated for several hours without the pipe walls decaying?   The pipes would not be under any internal pressure nor carry anything but air from the room.


texts: My bulkhead has rusted and I would like to know the easiest way to remove this rust and prevent further rust. It is a large area and sanding would be very tedious.


texts: Replacing 2-prong outlet - existing wiring has two neutral wires, one hot?

texts:
This is going to sound like a duplicate question but it's actually reversed.
We live in a house built in the 1960's (in the US). We have metal conduit throughout and surprisingly a ground wire that is terminated at each electrical box. Many of the outlets were 2-prong, and I've been replacing them with 3-prong.
I came across one outlet today that confused me. Instead of the standard 4 wires coming in, I only saw 3. And to make things stranger, it was 2 neutrals (white) and one hot (red) attached to a 2-prong screw terminal duplex-X receptacle (all 4 holes are T-shaped). Also it is a switched outlet.
Has anyone ever seen something like this? Is there a way to convert this to a 3-prong receptacle?


texts: What is the best process for a first-timer doing a small drywall finishing job?

texts:
As part of some home renovations I recently hung the equivalent of nine sheets of drywall -- eight on the walls (including a basement staircase) and one on the ceiling. I've done small patch jobs on drywall before and it's something I loathe. I got some quotes to have the finishing done, but apparently business is good for drywall finishers -- the quotes are four times what I anticipated, are scheduling almost a month out, and will take up to 10 business days to complete.

So I guess I'll be learning to finish drywall.

As this will be my first time finishing more than just a patch job, I'm looking for a process that will be straightforward and give me a high probability of success. Time is not a concern. Here are my questions:

Paper tape or mesh tape? From what I've read, mesh tape is easier to install (good) but not as strong (bad) and requires compound that I'd have to mix up myself (bad-- another thing to figure out). It seems like paper would be a bit harder to position and install, but otherwise is a better choice. So the question here is which is more challenging -- getting the compound mix right, or getting the paper tape installed properly?
Pre-mixed vs setting-type compound. Pre-mixed eliminates a step that I could mess up (good), and the main disadvantage seems to be that it takes longer to dry. Since I'm going to be slow, and will do most of this weeknights after work, that doesn't seem like a big deal. Are there other reasons why I should consider setting-type compound?
Dust control compound? Home Depot sells this stuff, which sounds like snake oil to me. It costs $2 more per bucket. Is it worth it? Are there disadvantages?
Oh my god the dust. This is what I remember about patch jobs, and what everybody complains about. Any pro-tips for dealing with the dust? Do these things actually work?

In all of these considerations, I'm not paying for someone else's time so I don't need the most convenient option -- I need the most fool-proof (the fool being myself). Since this is a small job, cost isn't too much of a concern either -- at least not compared to the outrageous quotes I got.


texts:
I just moved in my new apartment and there are 3 small white boxes without any label. (There is also a separate smoke detector and a door bell system, so it shouldn't be that)

This is how it looks inside:

Anybody got a clue what that is?


texts: Why does my interior paint absorb water and darken when splashed?

texts: I am wondering if the paint contractors painted my new drywall appropriately.  It is a flat latexand if even brushed with a damp towel it darkens.  It seems to me that the drywall must not have been sealed properly for water to be absorbed like that.  Can you advise me?


texts: Is it possible to add fluoride to my tap water?

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I live in a city without fluoridated drinking water. Do I have any options for adding fluoride to my tap water?

I found countless results online for filters that can remove fluoride from tap water, but I would like to do the reverse and add fluoride to my water. I am asking the opposite of this question about removing fluoride.

Ideally, I would be able to install some sort of faucet-mounted filter (similar to the image below) that could add safe levels of fluoride to my tap water. Presumably this device would need to be refilled or replaced once in a while. Unfortunately, I suspect that this type of device probably does not exist.

Does a device like this exist? If not, do I have any other options for adding fluoride to my tap water?

I rent an apartment and I am not permitted to make permanent changes to my plumbing. I would prefer options that involve minimal / reversible modifications such as a faucet mounted filter (i.e. solutions that won't upset landlord).

I am aware of the alternative methods for getting fluoride, such as:

Fluoride containing toothpaste
Fluoride containing mouthwash
Fluoride supplements

However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods.


texts: What’s the proper setup for mounting a tile cutting blade on a grinder?

texts:
I am attempting to determine the proper safe configuration for using a 4 1/2” tile cutting blade with my metabo hot angle grinder. I have seen lots of folks utilizing angle grinders with these cutting wheels in order to cut curves or notches from tile.

I’ve read through the manual for my angle grinder and it says nothing about cutting wheels, it only mentions grinding wheels. Moreover, it prescribes a specific type of “depressed center” grinding wheel (type 27).

How do I ensure that my grinder and cutting wheel are a proper match In order to safely complete this job the grinder is new so I can return the grinder or wheel in order to obtain a compatible product. It does appear that there is a sort of but on the grinder so I doe, but again no information on utilizing that with a cutting wheel.

Also, the grinder manual states only use grinding wheels of at least 13,300 rpm despite the fact that the grinder’s own not load rpm is only 10,000. Originally the cutting blade I picked up was only 13,000 rpm. I have found a more expensive cutting blade with 13,300. The original blade also seemed to not match the arbor size. I’ve attached photos.

What is the best practice here? I really only need to make one notch cut and then cut around the toilet flange. I think I could get around the toilet flange with nippers if it came down to it, but imagine the grinder is the best tool for the job.Any help would’ve appreciated.


texts: Mounting a 1-gang alarm panel over a 2-gang hole

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I am replacing a (discontinued) Leviton/HAI OmniPro II Home Automation system with a new Elk M1 Gold system.

The OmniPro II keypads (model 33A00-1) are designed to be mounted either directly on the wall, on top of a single-gang electrical box, or on top of a 2-gang box. In this building, the original installer elected to install using a 2-gang low-voltage ring.

For the new Elk M1 system, the keypads I have are model M1KPNAV (touchscreen) which are designed to mount either directly on the wall or on a single-gang box that is horizontal. The entire new keypad unit is only the size of a single-gang wallplate, so it won't even cover the 2-gang hole.

I really don't want to have to deal with drywall and paint matching - this project is difficult enough without all that. Also, there's a lot of alarm wire in the walls around the panels and I kind-of like being able to take the alarm panel off the wall to be able to reach it.

I know I could just cover the existing hole with a blank faceplate and drill a new hole, but I expect that will look really bad (and won't be approved by other stakeholders).

One thought I had is illustrated in the image below. I should be able to take a regular blank 2-gang faceplate, drill some holes in it, and mount the keypad on top of it.

The problem, as you can see, is that the holes to mount the coverplate on the wall are partially covered by the keypad base. This means I would have to first mount the coverplate on the wall and then the keypad on the coverplate. Since the coverplate isn't that thick, I wanted to be able to mount the keypad base onto the coverplate first using nuts behind the coverplate and then mount the whole thing on the wall together.

Does anyone have any other ideas for how I can mount these keypads?


texts: Should I fill nail holes in a roof deck before installing underlayment?

texts:
I'm getting ready to install roofing shingles on an outdoor shed/office. The roof has a small/moderate incline.  At the moment, the roof just has bare plywood on it.  In several spots, I needed to remove/relocate nails so there are some old holes in the roof deck.  Should I fill these in with something? If so, what compound should I use to fill in the holes?

Or is that not necessary considering that I'm going to place underlayment felt over everything and shingles over that?


texts: Is it safe to remove a plug, and wire a light fitting into the wall?

texts:
I've moved into a house, and am fitting a series of 5 halogen downlights beneath a shelving unit. The wall on which I am fitting it previously had an uplighter. I removed this so now have exposed live, neutral and (unsheathed) earth wires on the wall. This is already operated by a light switch on another wall.

The new lights I have come with a fitted fused (3 amp) plug. The instructions say if it is installed directly on a lighting circuit it will need a 5 amp fuse.

So - if I want to wire it directly, can I assume the lighting circuit is adequately protected since it already had a light fixture (is this standard?), or for this fitting do I need to install an (unswitched) fused spur or something similar to add the 5 amp protection?

To clarify, the 5 halogen lights are wired into one fitting with a transformer leading to one plug.


texts: How can I adapt old thick wiring entering my 30 yr old furnace to fit into the clip on slot on modern day circuit breaker switch?

texts:
My 30 year old furnace blew one of its breaker switches and shortly after blew the second breaker switch. I had a service technician look at the furnace and he confirmed this. He said he did not think he could find replacement switches and that I may need to replace the whole furnace. I found this a little strange and thought it was a cash grab so I opened the furnace back up and looked at the switches.

They are part of an assembled unit but I can open up the unit and replace them, piece of cake. Except for one little problem. The old circuit breaker switches are hard wired into the system. They have VERY thick wires (thicker than a pencil) where the power enters them. ALL modern day circuit breakers have a slot where they clip/mount onto a bracket where the power enters. The old breaker switches allowed wires to be screwed into place at both ends instead of just the end power exits them.

Is there an adapter I can attach to the wire that allows me to attach them to the modern day slot in the circuit breaker switch? They are 50A and 60A breaker switches. (double switches) (2 pole?).

EDIT: The two breaker switches I need to replace are both labeled "common trip".


texts: How to sound-proof a room with minimal budget

texts:
In my house, I have a room upstairs in which I frequently do videocalls. The problem is that when I talk my family can hear everything downstairs, which is very annoying for them. So I would like to try to make it so my voice isn't hearable outside the room.
This room has a wooden floor, through which I think the sound goes through the most, so maybe carpets? It also has wooden door.
What measures can I take to improve the situation with minimal budget?

EDIT: I wouldn't like to build a structure around me, but to improve the room I'm already in


texts:
I'm getting ready to tile a bathroom, and got an incredible deal on a short lot of marble tile.  Problem is, there isn't any matching bullnose available so I'm going to have to cut the bullnose myself.  I picked up a brazed diamond router bit for the job, but I'm a little concerned about how abrasive the dust is going to be and what it might do to my nice router.  I would prefer to use a router table with a fence, which makes the dust accumulation in the router body much worse.

Is this going to significantly shorten the lifespan of the motor?  I'd thought about picking up much less expensive router specifically for this job, but don't know if it would be worthwhile.  Anyone done this before or have any thoughts?


texts:
We have an old cabin with 4 fuses in the main 60 amp panel, and a sub panel with a handful of breakers. The sub panel is fed by 3 wires instead of the modern 4. The 4 fuses are all wired with 2 wire aluminum wiring.
I know that code allows you to add one grounding wire to serve multiple circuits. I had one open spot in my main panel, so I added a 10 gauge solid grounding wire. My question is if code allows me to ground receptacles on a breaker in the sub panel with the grounding wire from the main panel. I just did this (Grounded some outlets run off of the main panel fuses and some off of a sub panel breaker) with my one grounding wire and my circuit checker said the open ground was gone and showed proper wiring, but then I read that a single ground wire can only be used for multiple circuits that terminate at the same panel.
I can read that to say that my sub panel that the breaker is on terminates back at the main panel as do the fuses, or that the breaker terminates at the sub panel, and the fuses at the main panel so it is not ok. (At least I am not bonding neutral and ground at the sub panel)
I would appreciate any help I can get on this.
Edits:
So it sounds like what I did does not meet code. Is this kind of grounding dangerous? Ineffective? Just less effective than proper grounding? Basically I am wondering if I should take it out. Also, given the 2nd photo below, I am not sure if I could run the grounding wire to the subpanel as suggested, or if I would need to add a grounding bar to do so. We will eventually need to bring someone in to straighten all this out, but I am trying to make things better, not worse, until then.
As requested, I have added pictures below.

The first is the main box. There was one grounding screw available in the middle on the top that you cannot see here behind the wires. It is where the green wire on the top connects.
Here is the subpanel. I don't think the ground and neutrals that are here are separated. Given there is no grounding wire coming in from the main panel, I do not see how these can be separated bars (upper left), but I am no expert.


texts: What kind of lock do I need to lock this sliding door from the outside?

texts:
I have a sliding door in my home that says "Fleetwood" and looks like this:

The outside plate looks like this:

What kind of a lock is supposed to be used in this door to allow it to be locked from the outside? Bonus question: can I install one of the more advanced locks on this door, such as as a fingerprint-based one?


texts: Installing Neurio home energy monitor, can't get to service wires

texts:
I opened up my main panel and saw that there aren't actual wires coming into the main breaker as they describe in their installation video. The top half of my panel is behind the PG&E meter, so I suspect the wires coming from the street are behind that top half of the panel.

My question is, do I work with the power company to remove the meter, or do I hire an electrician to do that top half? Or is there another option to make it work based on my existing panel?

I'm comfortable doing the install myself based on the videos but I fear it's become more complicated.


texts: Can I use existing 10/3 cable for a 40A cooktop circuit?

texts: My kitchen is wired with 10/3 wire for a cooktop stove, however my new cooktop recommends 8/3 wire and 40amp breaker.  Is it safe and legal to use the existing 10/3 wiring?


texts:
I'd like to frame a wall around a 3 inch PVC pipe in my basement and would like to lose as little interior space as possible. The picture shows what I'd like the framing to look like and the dimensions. It's not load bearing, it will just have drywall on it. The top section "A" is build with 2x4s sideways, sort of like a soffit/bulkhead ladder that's why the thickness is shown as 1 1/2".
Is there a way to make this rigid/stable without tying section "C" into concrete with tapcons through the insulation? Flat corner braces between A&B and B&C? Screws instead of nails? In g
Thanks in advance for any advice.


texts: How do I identify and repair this drywall damage?

texts:
I'm working on repainting my walls in my house. To prep for it, I removed the base trim from my walls (I'm gonna put in new ones too).
Somehow, when removing the trim, part of the wall started peeling off with it and exposing the inner part.
I'm thinking that I peeled off part of the paper to the drywall but I'm not sure. The surface is grainy and crumbles easily when I run it. Honestly, I don't even know the name of that stuff. (This house was built in 1977, plaster maybe?)
How can I fix this?


texts: Brass/plastic part to keep toilet seat lid from lying back too far

texts:
I have at times seen toilet seats fitted with what could be called a backstop that prevents the seat lid from resting against the toilet tank lid or otherwise traveling too far back. I've seen them on older (or retro) toilets, with brass hinges (though a strong plastic would be fine).
I've been looking for something like that, but I can't find anything, in stores, or online. Heck, I don't even know what the correct name is.
I need something like that to prevent the seat lid on the toilet in my master bathroom from resting against the flush lever, which restrains it from allowing the flapper to close.
Does anybody know what the name of that part  is, Or keywords to uses, so i may have better luck in my search?


texts: Tester shows Circuit wired correctly but GFCI Trips under smallest load

texts:
We added an outdoor fireplace and trying to wire it up.  I am repurposing an old generator connection on the outside of the house.  Here is the current setup
10-3 wire from panel to the outside junction box.  From the junction box it's solid 12 awg to the actual plug (non-GFCI).  I removed the 30amp breaker in the panel and replaced with a 20amp GFCI.  White neutral is connected to the panel neutral bus (verified not ground).  The black wire from the 10-3 is connected to breaker. I pulled the 12 awg wire today through conduit that my landscaper left so I know it's good.
Inside the junction box I connected black/black, red/red, white/white, and green/green.
Outlet (non-GFCI) is wired black to bronze, white to silver, green to ground.  No other circuit or connections are inline or connected.
Turning on the breaker everything is fine, hit the test button on the breaker and it trips like it should.  Reset the breaker and walk outside and plug in my tester, 2 lights showing correct.  Press the test button and circuit does not trip but plugging in even a 60 watt lamp causes this circuit to trip.
I'm not an electrician but I have done plenty of electrical work.  Any help is appreciated.  Literally the only break between the panel and the outlet is where the 10awg to 12awg wire connection was made.
I did test Hot/Ground @ 123v, and hot neutral at 123v.  Neutral/ground tested 0.
FWIW the red hot leg on a completely separate GCFI breaker acts exactly the same way.


texts: In summer, should attics simply have fans or other ventilation?

texts:
The house we have in the US south seems to function in this way in summer:

I know nothing about AC/insulation systems but it seems that:

If there was simply airflow through the attic, it would stop the attic being actually warmer than outdoors?

Am I totally wrong?

So I propose this:

Do I have head up ass?

Is this something every other house has and I'm just behind the times? Have I "reinvented the wheel" or ...?

I've noticed anyway, from the attic, the gaps to the outisde walls are just really poor (ie, you can generally "look out" the gaps and see the grass) ... should I perhaps just install massive fans that pump the hot air out those gaps?

(I realize that would be the wrong direction - but my guess is it would be a huge improvement.)

Maybe I'm wrong and it's not actually that hot out there - I'm running out to buy many thermometer devices!

What's the deal on this?


texts: How can I reduce noise from my neighbor's pool pump 12’ to 15’ away from my house?

texts: I need fencing type/material to use to block low hum of pool pump located 12’ to 15’ from family room hurricane impact windows. I'm planning to erecta  6’ high fence on property line between houses spanning about 18’. The pump is used on high and low speed creating noise.


texts:
I'm hoping to hang two sections of IKEA's Kungsfors system on drywall in our kitchen. It'll be about twice as tall as the one in the link (two sections), but since they're independent of each other the height probably doesn't matter.

The uprights/suspension rails are here. Each has three mount points on it, which you can see on page 7 of the assembly instructions.

The problem is that I can't align any of the uprights with a stud. Even if I could it'd only work for upright, since the shelves are 23" and studs are 16" apart.

So! Will the 3/16th inch version of these snap toggles work, if I use them for all 18 mount points? (3 per rail x 2 rails per column x 3 column) Or is the drywall just gonna crumble?

It was also suggested that I run a 1/2"-3/4" board horizontally, attach that to the studs, and then attach the Kungsfors suspension rails to the board. (Like you would for hanging cabinets I guess. (Is that what I need to do? Or will the snap toggles be enough?

Thank you!


texts: Preparing plywood for wallpaper applications

texts:
I have erected false walls using plywood on concrete wall for hiding aquarium piping and electrical wires. I am planning to finish the board using wallpaper.

Can I simply glue up the wallpaper on the bare plywood? Or is it necessary to paint undercoat beforehand?

The wall is partly smooth texture plywood and another part is osb board. The osb board by nature is not as smooth as the plywood.

If I simply use glue and stick the wallpaper on these walls, will it show up some differences?  My main concern is just that.

Please advise me. Thank you.


texts:
The rate at which water is removed from a bathroom sink has significantly declined.  The p-trap was removed and a bucket placed underneath to catch water.  The sink was filled and water was released into the bucket: the result is that rate at which the water flowed into the bucket was unchanged (very slow).  This test indicates that the bottleneck is in the piping before the p-trap.  P-trap was clean \ unobstructed.

What is the most common cause for this issue?  What is the next step for diagnosing corrective action?


texts: Can sump pump drain pipes be installed without breaking concrete?

texts: I am installing a sump pump well in basement. From the well i would like to drive into the earth horizontally  a drain pipe to remove excess water under the concrete floor. Would a hard white PVC pipe work for this application. Would it get water from the surrounding earth?


texts: Can I add a second junction box to house a doorbell transformer?

texts:
In the attic I have electricity running out to a junction box.  The wire in the junction box connects 2 things.  The first one is that it brings power down to a light switch.  There's a NM cable coming back up to the attic over the the light.

However recently I added a transformer to the junction box to power up my Ring Doorbell (white to white, green to green, and black to black).  I didn't notice this until today that my Ring Doorbell doesn't actually get direct power unless I flip the switch to the light.

I want to ask if I could just add another junction box next to the one I already have so that I would have a dedicated box supplying power to my transformer and doorbell.

So here's what I imagine. First the line power would come to junction box 1.  In junction box 1, I would attach the transformer for the doorbell.  I would also have another NM cable to bring electricity to junction 2.  In junction 2, that's where I would reconnect to the NM cable that goes down to the light switch.

I don't know if this will work.  Or is there another way where I can keep the first arrangement and be able to tap power directly from the junction box without the light switch controlling my transformer.


texts: I have a room addition that is wired to a different breaker box, not the main breaker box. I am putting two 20 amp breakers in because I had 12/2 wiring. Does one give power to other breaker? Or do I need a seperate hot wire in lower connection to breaker?


texts: Can I install a Sharkbite shut off valve with only a half of an inch of copper to connect to?

texts: Will a Sharkbite connector still work if I have only a half of an inch of copper that it will connect to instead of the recommended 1 inch?


texts: How to determine the correct driver bit for screws?

texts:
I am going to use this screw to join 2x4s together.  How can I select the correct bit size for this screw?

Product image from homedepot.com (linked above)


texts: How to support 4x4 posts on cement driveway

texts:
I'm designing some outdoor bike storage as a free-standing shed. It will go against a house on an existing cement driveway. We're renting, so I can't drill into the driveway or do any other permanent modifications.

Here's my current design for context:

Link to the public design in OnShape: Bike Storage Shed

  Edit for clarity:

  The rough size of the shed is 4 x 12'

  I have two goals for the post bases:

  Allow leveling.
  Keep ground moisture from damaging posts.

  This structure is in coastal northern California, so no snow load on
  the roof but occasional heavy rains.

  The structure as shown is not done being designed yet; there will be framed
  out T1-11 siding on the ends and diagonal braces in the back to provide
  torsional stability.

It doesn't seem right to just have the 4x4 posts rest directly on the cement driveway. What is the best way to support the posts? I was considering:

Let end of 4x4 rest directly on cement, paint the end with exterior finish for some extra moisture protection. Hope for the best on the levelness of the driveway.
Use cement pier blocks like these, adding sand/gravel underneath to get them level.
Use pressure-treated lumber skids attached underneath the posts, adding sand/gravel underneath to get them level.
Attach plastic standoffs like these to provide protection from moisture.

Any thoughts on the most robust way to interface the posts to the driveway?


texts: Bought a new (old) house and a new subpanel for the pool was installed. No clue if this is safe

texts:
I bought a house and prior to the sale a subpanel was installed at the pool area.  The home inspector says it’s fine, but he really wasn’t there to make sure things are code compliant. Before I hire someone or try to tackle this myself, i figured I’d start here and see where to go.

Right now, there is a 2-2-2-4 SER cable running from a 100amp 2 pole breaker in the main panel (200amp service) to a huge 12”x12”x6” junction box about 30-35’ away. In the box, the SER cable is split and the wires are joined with insulated Polaris wire joints (Per the inspector) to individual 2 gauge (4 gauge for the ground) THHN wires. The wires then run into a conduit connected to the box across ceiling and exit the house and go into the ground. The conduit runs about 150’ to a subpanel at the pool. The panel has a 2 20amp 2 pole breakers, 1 50amp 2 pole breaker and a 20amp single pole breaker. The breakers are all gfci and run a pump, heater, salt unit and outlet. Everything seems ok, but I thought the wires to the subpanel needed to be be continuous. Is this ok as is or should I consider having continuous wires run for this? I usually do all my own construction work, but other than identifying wiring, I don’t touch it. Sooooo...is this go to go or should I look into redoing it? I’ve never dealt with pools or subpanels before.

Thanks!


texts: What are the pros and cons of removing exterior dentil molding?

texts:
My capping (or trimming) contractor will cap the wooden parts (e.g., rake, frieze, etc.) with wood grain style PVC coil. He said he will remove the existing wooden dentil moldings. He will add/cover the old vents with T-4 vinyl soffit.
I Googled it, and it seems dentil moldings are all about decorations, so it seems that removing dentil moldings will not have bad effect on my house. Am I correct?
The dentil moldings have been with this house for 25 years (I am a new owner though), and I don't want to cause any bad things by removing the dentil moldings.
I think I'd better cap fascia boards and install new soffits, but not sure if I'd better remove dentil moldings and cap the frieze boards.
(fascia, soffits, frieze boards are based on this figure: https://marshallroofing.com/all-about-your-gutters/)
Do you have any comments/advice or anything I should know before/after removing dentil moldings?


texts: Do I need to screw down both sides of a composite deck board at each joist?


texts: Why is one of my four baseboard heat zones not working?

texts:
No heat in baseboard. How to bleed just one zone. Thanks!  Please see picture. ?
I have a 4 zone valves.

1) water heater (works)

2) 1st floor air handler (works)

3) 2nd floor air handler (works)

4) baseboard (doesn’t work no heat here) (marked in red dots, has a hex pipe)

  replaced the zone valve
  replaced the thermostat
  I hear the zone valve open and burner kick in when I turn up the thermostat

  I feel warm water/hot water right above the zone valve

There are no bleeder valves near the baseboard

Can I bleed just the zone 4 without interrupting the others? Which valves do I open close?

See picture:
1. anything that’s a drain plug marked in y.
2. Pink is the pipe that comes out the tank marked as “boiler in”
3. Green is the pipe that come out the tank marked as “boiler out”
4.Blue the pipe that come out the tank marked as “hot water/TP)
5. that’s the cold water in and there is a shut off ball valve marked in red line.
6. hex pipe in red

Here is the picture of the baseboard.


texts: Trying to identify the neutral in my switch box for home automation switch.

texts:
My house was built ~3 years ago and i am trying to add some smart switches. I see that nearly all require a neutral wire. When i pull apart any of my switch boxes i see that a neutral wire is not connected to the switch, but in every junction box there is a bundle of white wires capped off in the back.

Would these be the neutral wires? and is it normal for traditional switches not to be connected to a neutral?


texts: Stain blemished/damaged surface layer in cultured marble shower?

texts:
Is there a way to stain what appears to be cultured marble? Two I've used in the recent past at different locations, with suction cup based hooks/holders have had some material removed over time perhaps by the vacuum/suction created. There is not, when the suction cups are removed, a whole lot of 'stuff' under them. Strange effect indeed.

What's weird is when I look this up online, all sources say you can sand it, etc. because the material is "all the same, all the way through" or similar phrases. However, you can see in my picture it clearly is not. The color cast of the photo is very poor, but the bulk of the surface is off-white, while the marbling is white, and so are the blemishes where just a very small layer of material was lifted off by some effect of the suction cups. This must actually be the rather different 'gel' based layer that I've read is what creates the surface where the material is poured into the mold. However, that doesn't really explain the technicque all the sources refer to either. Seems they would create the problem I am facing now by trying to remove colored stains etc by sanding and so on.

See Photo with three spots on left side:


texts: Why does my tankless water heater turn off when I open the cold side of the faucet?

texts: Just got a new Canon tankless water heater. I was wondering, why does the heater go out when I turn on a cold water knob while the hot water knob is still open. Like, I'll turn on the left/hot water knob and hot water starts flowing in a few seconds. I leave the left knob as is, and turn on the right/cold water knob. The heater turns off, and obviously, cold water is now coming out of the tap. Why doesnt the heater stay on? In case I want a continous flow of less-hot water without having to adjust the heater switches.


texts: Am I correctly replacing 2 x two-pole breakers with a quadraplex breaker?

texts:
I am replacing the top two of those two pole breakers in the top left (green) with one quadplex with common trip model EATON BQC220220. Is the attached wiring diagram right(just follow the dots color where wires will go / interconnect)? I really appreciate the help
I need to make room for a 50 amp double pole breaker for the generator that will go to the top left after the quadplex install.
I will also add a main breaker in the empty space with the proper interlock.  I do have another main breaker outside.

enter image description here


texts: How can I repair chips in a white porcelain floor?  The chips came from dropping heavy cans, and they are small, less than pencil eraser size.


texts:
I have a newer stainless three bulb light bar over my sink, and one of the lights single glass shades keeps loosening up and wants to fall off,only the bulb keeps it from doing so. The retaining ring will not screw on to the ceramic socket tight enough, it's very loose, I tried another ring from the other two lights and they are the same way but they seem to fit ok on the other lights, as I can tighten them up correctly and I'v had no problem. I have the clear bulbs in them and they do get really hot, could this be a problem, if so I'll opt for a newer type bulb. Do they make a smaller ring for these sockets to tighten them more securely?
Leonce


texts: How much space is needed in electrical box for new dimmer switch?

texts:
Background

I am installing a dimmer switch in one of the rooms of my apartment (I live in a tri-plex in California).
The existing light switch works (I.E this is a upgrade not a repair).
This room has a metal box, single pole, single light control.
No green grounding screw or grounding copper wire (although there was a small piece of copper in the far back that may be connected to the box - which may be why the box is properly grounded).

Problem

The new dimmer switch is 1.5-2x fatter/wider than the old/traditional switch and thus both sides of the plastic casing on the switch body are touching the metal box. I have seen articles suggesting to calculate the box size needed based on number of wires but I was curios:

How much space is needed/required AROUND the switch to be safe and up to code?

NOTE: My setup is exactly as described here: http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring-switches/how-to-install-a-dimmer-switch/view-all


texts: Should this Grasslin UWZ48-L hour counter in my septic pump box be rolling or ticking over?

texts:
Should this counter be moving forward if it is working properly?  Would it tick 1 hour at a time (tick at the hour) or slowly roll forward minute by minute (slow roll)?

Background: My septic alarmed yesterday.  I thought it was because our washer has this annoying habit of refilling to try to balance a load, and had done so probably 5 or 10 times for a load of blankets; just figured that would fill the system and that we'd be caught up by now.  But 25h later we're still alarmed.  Have deliberately not used very much water since then so I'd figure it would clear by now.  Anyway I noticed this ticker has been stuck on this number 0093961 for about two hours now (since I took notice, may have been stuck longer).  Seems wrong.


texts: How can I strengthen an extra wide desk?

texts:
I am planning to build a desk that is nearly 12 feet wide to support 3 computers. There will be two cabinets on both ends, and if possible I would prefer to not need a 3rd cabinet or post in the middle to support it from sagging. Below is a picture similar to what I would like to accomplish.

What techniques could I use to strengthen the top of the desk?


texts: Proper method to wire through different surfaces

texts:
I have added a 6" deep bump out with a TV and an electric fireplace in the center of a  wall. There is a receptacle behind the feature wall which the tv and fireplace plug into. I am also creating a removable panel to access the receptacle and coax connections. Complexity was heightened when we decided to add some puck lighting under the mantle below the tv. These are 120v hardwired pucks with a dimmer on the side of the mantle.

My plan was to tap into the receptacle and run power to the dimmer. My question is that I'm going through a couple of surfaces and not sure what the proper technique (plain romex, conduit, junction boxes, etc) I should be using to keep all this as safe as possible.

The TV and fireplace are mounted on the outside of the feature wall and their cables run inside down to the receptacle. So I only go through the feature wall surface.

The puck lights & dimmer need power from the receptacle line. So I need to have that romex attached to the receptacle inside the wall, come out of the wall, go through the front of the feature wall into the hollow center of the mantle to get to the dimmer.

I know code varies by jurisdiction, but I'm looking for some best practice advice here.
Is a junction box safe with no cover? There wont actually be any wiring junctions in it, its more there just to give me a pass-through the drywall. I can have the romex come up to a junction box and simply extend to the dimmer through the front of the feature wall and into the mantle but is that ok or do I need metal conduit from the receptacle all the way to the dimmer?


texts: Window in shower enclosure: What to do about it, if anything?

texts:
One of the quirks of my house is a 1945-vintage double-sash window, with wood trim and probably wood sashes, chest height, located above a tub where it could be nicely soaked by side-splash when taking a shower. I've always wondered what the designer was thinking...

My current solution for it is a multilayer kluge: glass frosting for privacy, inside trim mostly spar-varnished, and finally a shower curtain spread across that wall so it shouldn't get splashed under normal conditions. (Just steamed.) Massive overkill,  I presume.

What would the right solution be, given that I'm not eager to reconstruct the wall or replace that window?


texts: Do I need to run a  ground wire with conduit?    I have installed a line of lights using 1/2 EMT and tied into another circuit that is grounded coming off the panel.  There are about 7 lights in a back room at my business.   In addition, should the last light in the circuit feed back to the panel?  The lights are just for supplemental lighting in the work areas.


texts: Basement drain not flush with flooring and old rusted drain

texts: We are putting in flooring in our laundry room that is located in the basement. The old cast iron cover was removed and we are looking for the best option. We could put a new plastic cover on, but it sits below the flooring height. Everything is also so rusted that the old screws have broken off in the original drain. Can this just be placed in and sealed with silicone since this drain is under a utility sink and not where you would walk? How should this be finished?


texts: There are only two wires coming out of ceiling, both are black and only one reads there is power. I need to install a new ceiling light fixture but don’t know what to do.


texts: Can I use this White Wire for a thermostat C wire?

texts:
An AC-only machine cools a storage facility: no heat.  The 30 year old thermostat is to be replaced with a wifi thermostat, which requires a C-wire to power the electronics.

There are 4 wires:

Red (28V)
White (?)
Green (fan)
Yellow (Cooling)

Convention indicates white is to for calling heat: that being said there is no heater.

Why is it connected to the thermostat, if the machine is AC only?

The potential difference between the white and the red is 28V:

Can said potential difference power the wifi thermostat (can WHITE serve as the C-Wire)?

UPDATE

I traced the thermostat wiring back to the machine and snapped a photo:

A second identical wire connects the indoor unit with the outdoor unit.  It seems that both blue wires are connected to the machine's blue leads.  Now I am wondering if I can rely on the convention of blue to serve as the C-wire.


texts: How should I seal a drain waste line that I'm no longer using?

texts:
The waste line from my kitchen sink is plumbed directly into my side sewer via a dedicated pipe that travels along the exterior of my house before tee-ing into the side sewer line. Apparently this was common practice here in the Seattle area in the 20s when my house was built.  We're doing some construction soon that will require us to disrupt this exterior kitchen sink drain line, so we've decided to tie the kitchen waste line into the main waste stack in the interior of the house.

How should I seal the previous waste pipe in the interim period before it's removed from the ground?  Is it acceptable to simply use some patch-and-plug cement?  It could be 3-4 months before the old line is removed.  I obviously want to keep sewer gas out of my house, but are there concerns with the other aspects of the side sewer?


texts: Low voltage in my light switch after relocating a ceiling box

texts:
I am new to this site and hope all is well with everyone.  I consider myself a DIYer. I research and talk to people before I jump into a job around the house. The second I reach my limits, I call the professionals. At this point, I have installed ceiling fans, light fixtures. I have also changed light switches and sockets countless times. I also have relocated electrical ceiling box a few years ago with no issues.

In a different room recently, with access from the attic, I relocated another ceiling box and fan bracket about 2 feet from its existing location. It was removed and installed with no issues at all. I set up and installed a new fan with a remote. After a short start-up for the remote and a flip of the switch, there was no light or fan movement. All of the wires were double-checked and seemed to be installed correctly. I then noticed that my illuminated wall switch is barely lit. I tested the switch and I had a reading of about 50 volts. All of the outlets in the room work. I went back to the attic and double-checked all the wiring for the fan and they seemed ok. The fan that was replaced was in perfect working order.

So before I call the professionals, What can I be missing or do??   Thanks in advance...


texts: Cracks in bricks, needs foundation work or can it be watched?

texts:
This house belongs to my mother who is in her 70's. She already needs a new roof and is saving for that.
As of now she can not really afford to fix foundation so I need honest opinions. Is this something that needs addressed NOW, or can it be monitored and if stays stabled addressed later on.

The cracks are on exterior only. There is no cracks in walls on the inside. Only one window is hard to open. Others work well. Doors work well. We feel no slanting in floors. The house is in Ohio (not sure if that matters)

Honestly have NO idea how long the ones on the side and back have been there.

Front of the house. This is under a bay window. This crack has been there for a long time (years) but never took pictures to compare.
https://i.imgur.com/GKns4Nq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e888ulR.jpg

Side of the house, bedroom A
https://i.imgur.com/UUJiTZq.jpg

Back of the house also bedroom A (also under only window that is hard to open, the window is old and never used so we don't know if being hard to open is a new problem)
https://i.imgur.com/rc2gnYf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eGmZTPQ.jpg

Back of the house Bedroom B
https://i.imgur.com/jJTgYJm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KSXxSv1.jpg

Over the garage, this crack is by far worst and has been there for many years.
https://i.imgur.com/5qoJLXL.jpg


texts: Is it okay to place two battery chargers on one 30 amp circuit?

texts:
I have a 30 amp 240 volt circuit out side in my garage and I want to hook up two 10 amp 240 volt circuits.  The equipment I am hooking up are battery chargers.  Can I install fused down disconnects on the 30A circuit?  I looked up the National Electrical Code and section 240.21 talks about a tap.

Am I violating the code?


texts: Choosing the right exterior door type for sound proofing from outside road noise

texts:
I am getting the door to my inlaw unit replaced.  Its not clear to me whether to get a solid core door, or a solid wood door, if my objective is to provide the best soundproofing inside the unit from the road noise outside.

Which door type is best for sound proofing the inside of the unit from the outdoor road noise?


texts: Is it safe to use heat tape on a drain line (p-trap)?

texts:
Background/Problem:
The p-trap for a drainage line (PVC) from one of my showers happens to be outside the house in an area that isn't protected from the cold/wind (yeah, I know) so when it freezes outside the water in the trap tends to block the drainage and back up water into the shower. I am considering installing thermostatically controlled heat tape to the pipe during the winter to the U part of the pipe to prevent this.

My Question:
I'm a little concerned about the risk of melting the PVC pipe, especially since it won't typically have running water going through it to dissipate the heat. Also, the shortest heat tape I could find was 3' which is probably going to mean some of the tape is going to run past the part of the trap that will actually have water in it.

I'm considering heat tape with a thermostat, so in theory it should cut off before it does any damage, but I just wanted to check with the home improvement experts to see if that application is a good idea, or if you guys have alternate suggestions.

So what do you think? Will this work out and do you have any suggestions for how to use heat tape correctly in this scenario?


texts: Can I remove this post on the lower floor of a two-storey home?

texts:
In the living area of my house is this decorative rail and post.

I want to remove them. While I suspect such a narrow, solitary post would not be made to bear a load, I am not a builder so I still feel I should verify my suspicion before removing it.
If the answer is just "ask a local professional", yes, I will do that too, however I'm still always interested to see what the internet has to say about stuff. If I'm lucky, some builders will respond, and that may leave me better informed for when I do go looking to pay a local professional for advice.
Some details of the home:

professional build
built in 1994
two storey
rail and post is on the lower storey
typical (for Australia) timber and brick veneer construction on concrete slab
no crawl space or basement below (just concrete slab on earth)
second floor above
the post appears to be turned from 4x4 lumber and is 60mm at its narrowest point.

I have contacted the firm that designed (but did not build) the home, and they were unable to answer my question as they claim to no longer have engineering drawings for this model of home.
I however do have some plans, and here you can see the rail and post in question.


texts:
I live in the Dallas, TX area and have a 10' x 10' Tuff Shed that is located 3' from my house. I want to run electricity to the shed to power A) internal light (4-tube 4' fluorescent fixture at 120 watts) B) exterior light (LED 14 watt) C) exterior outlet (for casual use for hedge trimmer, weed eater, etc.). So let's call it 2-amps (rounding up a lot) with both lights on and say another 5 amps when I plug something "big" into that outlet. All together a max of about 7-amps.
The plan is to install a 20-amp breaker in the breaker box and run a single 12/2 UF-B cable from the breaker, thru the attic, out the soffit, down the exterior house wall, underground, up the shed wall and finally into the shed.  The breaker box is on the other side of the house from the shed, so the length thru the attic will be about 65', plus maybe another 25' going up and down and around.
As the cable comes out of the house soffit (vertical), I will put it inside 3/4" schedule 80 PVC conduit to a 1-gang weatherproof box mounted on the side of the house which will have a 15-amp GFCI outlet rated WR/TR with an in-use cover.
From the external box, the PVC conduit will continue down into the ground 12" with a curving 90 to run the horizontal 3' to the shed, then another 90 curving bend up the exterior side of the shed to another weatherproof 1-gang box. This box will contain an exterior switch (for a cutoff) and the wires will finally run into the shed from the back of the exterior box.
Once inside the shed, I'll continue to use the UF-B 12/2 cable (exposed) to the 2 lights, 2 switches and WR/TR exterior outlet with in-use cover (I don't really need an interior outlet in the shed). I will run all the horizontal wire runs at the top of wall headers (to keep them out of the way) and come down vertical on a stud to the 2 switches, lights and outlet.
My questions about all of this are:

Any problem running the 12/2 UF-B cable in schedule 80 PVC 12" below the ground? I think I could run THWN-2 wires in this conduit at 12", but I would rather use the UF-B cable I already have instead of buying THWN-2.  Since it's such a short length with only 2 bends and the pipe is 3/4", I don't think I'll have too much trouble pulling the cable wires thru the conduit.
Do I really need the cutoff switch on the shed? My understanding is that every remote structure requires its own cutoff switch at the structure. Even though I have a GFCI outlet on the house that is technically a "cutoff switch", it's on the house (3' feet away) and not the shed. And I think I understand the the GFCI is required BEFORE I go underground. Is a simple switch good enough, or should I get like an AC disconnect? And can the switch is on the exterior or should it be inside the shed as the first thing on the circuit? I could also put another GFCI outlet inside the shed as the "cutoff switch", but a switch would be cheaper/easier to install.
Do I have to ground the shed with a grounding rod? The shed is sitting on concrete blocks and does not have a foundation, and I only have 1 20-amp circuit. So I don't think I need to do this.
Do I have to protect the wiring inside the shed (with for example flexible metal conduit) or can I leave it exposed? I don't plan on covering the walls so the wiring will always be exposed. My "protection plan" is keep the horizontal runs high and the vertical on studs, all stapled, clamped at the boxes, etc.
Should the GFCI outlet be 20 amps instead of 15 amps? The breaker in the breaker box will be 20 amps and I'm using 12/2 wire, so I really can do 20 amp outlets. On the other hand, I don't need anywhere near 20 amps for what I intend for this shed, and the wire run from the breaker box into the shed (after all is said and done) will be around maybe 90 feet, so my thought is to never allow a 20-amp device on this circuit. Is this reasonable thinking, or too conservative?
Any input/comments to improve anything?


texts: Blocking above wall in the way of new ceiling

texts: I have a finished basement wall that has an exposed header since removing a drop ceiling. My goal is to replace the ceiling with a flush ceiling, perhaps drywall or a joist-mount grid system. The way that it was blocked to the joists would not allow for a flush installation, so I'm going to fix it. Access to the other side of the joist is only through the slit you see in the picture below, and the next joist sits on a concrete wall for my basement. Is there a way to attach the wall that will allow me to remove this block? Perhaps with some drywall damage, could it be installed to the concrete wall? Can I use a bracket of some sort that can be installed through this small area?


texts: How do I attach a flat/gable verandah to an existing house?

texts:
I would to build a verandah similar to

(source: hicraft.com.au)
.

It will be attached to the fascia at the back of my house. I'm building it using timber frame and zinc aluminium roof sheets. I initially wanted to do a flat verandah but I really like the look of a gable in the middle, similar to the picture. There are two things I'm concerned about though:

Since I'm using a timber frame, how would I cover the triangle opening on the gable closest to the house? Would I need to use some form of roof sheet as well, and cap it all around the perimeter of the triangular shape? I'm just really concerned that it will leak underneath into the door area.
Would I need a box gutter in between the verandah and the existing house? Or would I just need to lay the roofing sheets below the roof tiles of the existing house, so that any rain runoff will fall on the verandah roof and into its eave guttering.


texts: Can I use a different brand of underlayment under my Pergo laminate floor and still be covered under the warranty?

texts:
I am not sold on Pergo Gold brand Underlayment. From reading reviews, there seem to be a good amount of unhappy customers who have used it. They say it crunches under the flooring when you walk on it.

Can I use a different brand of underlayment under my laminate floor and still be covered under the warranty?  I am not doing the install myself, I am having it installed through Lowe's.


texts:
We need a shutoff valve for our refrigerator.  We live in California.  We have a copper water line to the fridge.  My questions are:

The line kit included a small brass shut off valve.  The installer said that we need a box shut off valve installed into the drywall.  Are we supposed to have both of them?
The icemaker shut off valves sold at Lowes differ by the type of connection: PEX, CPVC x Comp, sweat, etc.  In California, do copper lines to the fridge need to be changed to PEX? What are those other types of connection?


texts: Is it acceptable to attach elevated deck joists to rafter tails?

texts: I'm having an attached patio built by a contractor. I am concerned about the quality of the construction. In particular the attachment of the patio joists to the house rafters. Instead of using a ledger board, our contractor has simply attached the patio joists to the rafters using nails. Is this safe?


texts: Can I attach a freestanding deck to concrete block garage wall?

texts:
I'm certain you can't attach a ledger to cinder block that is why the deck is going to be free standing. However, I would like to know if the deck could somehow be secured to the garage. Kind of like what a ledger board does only without joist hangers as it is free standing.

Thanks in advance for any help.


texts: Is it OK to put hardwood flooring over 3/4" particle board that's over 1/2" wood subfloor?

texts: We want to install either laminate or hardwood flooring throughout most of our home. The home is about 35 years old. I pulled up all the carpet and found 3/4" particle board over 1/2" plywood board subfloor underneath the carpet. It is particle board and not OSB.  The particle board does not run under the walls. The walls rest on the 1/2" wood board and the joists. Since carpet was laid over the particle board they were not so concerned about one board being level with the next so they are uneven. We've been told it was OK to put flooring over the particle board if we level it up and by another to remove the particle board and replace with 3/4" plywood.  So I'm seeking a confirmation of one or the other or another suggestion.


texts:
I've seen some doors in Europe with mixed barrel hinge (Fr. "paumelle de Paris") orientation. Unusually these have the pivot pointing up, but occasionally I've seen a door with one of hinges mounted the other way around, i.e. with the pivot pointing down. Is there a reason for this?

For outdoor use I understand this is a bad idea because a barrel hinge will gather water when mounted upside down. The ones I saw upside down were all inside doors. Also, it wasn't done because of the lack of proper parts (left vs right hinge). They simply rotated the hinge completely with the pivot installed on the door rather than the jamb. I don't get it why anyone would do this.


texts: Is it acceptable to cut studs to install an electrical panel?

texts: Our electrician cut out 2 by 4's to install an electrical panel between them.  He put a screw through the box into the cut end of the 2 by 4 in only three places.  I don't believe it's a load bearing wall, but is this right?


texts: Remodel Recessed Lighting in New Basement?

texts:
I am finishing my basement and will be installing a drop ceiling.  Right now the ceiling is open.  I purchased some recessed lighting on clearance at Home Depot for $5.00, normally $20.  After doing some research online, it seems that I should not use them on my open ceiling.  Most people say that "new construction" lighting should be used.  So, my question is, because I got such a good deal on these lights, is there any way I can use them?  I purchased some hangers, but I'm not sure if the remodel lights will attach to them.  Thanks for any help.

Corey


texts:
I am thinking of replacing all the cabinets in our kitchen.

What is the process for installing kitchen cabinets? (Ie. best to start in corner, and work out? Top cabinets first?)

Edit:
We have two gaps. One where the stove will be, and another where the dishwasher will be. The dish washer gap will have the counter-top over it.


texts:
I have a second hand espresso machine (this or similar - 800ESXL) and a valve in it has broken. From a bit of research, it looked like Breville knew the part was prone to failure and they quickly made it obsolete without a compatible replacement. I can't find a new replacement for it, so following advice here, I thought it'd be worth it to try gluing it back together.

I don't see any visible markings on the piece to indicate what type of plastic it is. How can I fix this as robustly as possible in a food safe way? I think this is before the boiler, so shouldn't be exposed to particularly high temperatures.

I'm looking for both whether this is possible from a materials perspective (is there a go-to general product for adhering "plastic" without knowing what type it is?) and a technique perspective - this is a small diameter piece and is threaded on the outside, so adhering the pieces as cleanly as possible would also be important.


texts:
Are there any weed killers that aren't endocrine disruptors or carcinogens?

I'm at war with dandelions, but prefer a few dandelions to cancer or reproductive damage, most days.


texts: Barrier of Plastic sheeting between wood and dirt

texts: I'm looking for the way to make the pressure treated wood in my project last the longest possible. I want to put a piece of plastic (black) sheeting to protect the 2x12s being used for a new retainer wall. It will then be backfilled with dirt against the plastic, holding the plastic in place. Will this make the 2x12s last longer, or will it increase the rot time of the PT wood?


texts: What is this electrical device shown in picture?

texts:
I was watching "Better Call Saul" and came across this electrical device. I have never seen such a device. I want to know what it is called and what does it do/measure?

Here is another angle.


texts: How to remove this hinge to remove box cover

texts: I need to take the door off of this to get access to the bolts to remove it and access the inside:


texts: Split vertical studs need replacement or reinforcement

texts:
About a dozen of the short, vertical studs that support my roof rafters are split along as can be seen in the picture. There seems to be some minor horizontal displacement as well.

Obviously they need to be reinforced or replaced, but I'm not sure what kind of professional could help with this, or if this is something that I can do myself with the proper tools.

Any advice is welcome!


texts: Can Self Leveling Compound be Poured Over 2 Inches Thick?

texts:
I need to pour a level pad 2 1/4 inches thick to support a cast iron tub on top of our slab (the floors are raised 2 1/4 inches). I would like to use a self-leveling compound (like this one), but it says it can only be poured up to 1 inch thick.

I am wondering if it can be poured thicker than that if I form it properly or if there is a better solution.


texts: Is the Nest thermostat smart enough to turn itself on BEFORE you get home?

texts:
I'm wondering if in "Away" mode, is Nest smart enough to learn about when you come home, and kick on approximately 30-40 minutes BEFORE then? Or does it only kick on when it senses you've come home?

Also, can you control how much it lowers the temperature in Away mode?

Further, if you adjust the temperature manually over the internet (say, just before you leave work), does that count towards teaching it when it should turn on?

I'm basically wondering just how smart its auto functions are, because if they're not smart, then I would rather just spend $30 on a programmable unit rather than $250 for Nest.


texts: How do I clean a kitchen sink spray hose?

texts:
My kitchen sink has one of those sprayer-on-a-hose things off to the side of the main faucet. It has a clear plastic hose that pulls out to spray stuff around the sink. That hose has green stuff growing in it. It was like that when I bought this house so I don't know what conditions led to the situation. I can tell you that the hose is very rarely used now because the water coming through it stinks.

Can I clean that hose? I'm thinking maybe I could remove it and soak it in something. Maybe bleach or vinegar? Or should I just replace it? Is that an easy fix or would I need to replace the entire faucet to get the hose? Also, if anyone has any idea how this growth might have started, I'd like to know to avoid the problem in the future.


texts: I would like to install a light above our kitchen sink.I can tap into close receptacle but it is wired with 14/3 wire?How do I do this with extra red wire?


texts: All kitchen water supplies have low pressure

texts:
My kitchen was remodeled and I noticed since then the water pressure for new area has been low (hot and cold).  Previously we had one sink and dishwasher, now we have

Two Sinks
Dishwasher
Instahot
Fridge
Spigot running to outside

The line serving the original sink was 1" -- drawn down to 1/2" in the crawlspace and then up to the sink.  They extended the 1/2" in the crawl space in the following way
- pipe1: first sink (hot and cold)
- which then T's to
- pipe2: fridge (cold only)
- pipe3 (hot) : goes to sink #2 hot and dishwasher
- pipe3 (cold) : goes to sink# cold and instahot
- pipe4 (continues from pipe3 cold) : runs to spiggot

Could the water pressure issue be related to using the 1/2" pipe to connect to every outlet?  Should 1" been run to each location and then each reduced to 1/2" closer to outlet?


texts: I have a toilet seat that is loose, but can not work out how to tighten it. I looked under the fitting but there is no nut. It looks like the end of the bolt is designed not to turn.


texts: For Drip Irrigation can I add a second backflow preventer after an anti siphon valve?

texts:
I'm installing a residential drip irrigation system for my home. I understand the need for backflow prevention and plan on using anti siphon valves. I have one area that is a full story higher than where I plan to install my valves and the rest of the system which is on our back deck. While this area will be fed from a dedicated valve -- I would rather not have to install a constant pressure mainline up to the deck to raise the valve the required 6" above the highest emitter.
In this case, could I add a second valve to the poly tubing at a highpoint to prevent backflow? If so, which kind(s) would be appropriate?


texts: There is mold in my bucket of paint. Can I still use the paint?

texts:
This is a very expensive acrylic paint, the bucket was not properly closed, and left 1 year in the basement.

Now there is mold inside the bucket ; The strong smell of acrylic has also disappeared.

It doesn't need to be perfect quality, since I just wanted to finish the painting of the technical room of my house. But well.. brown color spots would certainly look awful on the white walls. (On top of that I could bring mold inside the house..)

Maybe I could filter the paint into another clean bucket, and and try to stir it anyway ? Or this is too dangerous, there was a chemical reaction and my paint is dead ?


texts: The radiator is cold at the bottom and I suspect that the pin is stuck. I bled the radiator and there was no sludge.


texts:
I have a Lennox MPD3530CNM-B fireplace. It is controlled by a standard toggle switch on the wall. I can turn on and off the fireplace even when there is no power. It looks like my fireplace uses a thermopile. As a result, the switch on the wall does not have electricity coming from the electricity panel. The switch on the wall is connected directly to the fireplace.

I am concerned with the fireplace. I understand the Lutron Maestro is an electronic switch. Based on my research, I am not going to be able to use a Digital Switch to operate the fire place.

How do I replace a standard toggle switch with a Lutron Maestro 'Digital Switch'? If it is not possible, does anybody know if Lutron has a mechanical switch with look like Lutron Maestro and would do the job?
If I ever replace successfully the switch to a Lutron Maestro, will I still be able to turn on and off the fireplace with the switch?

I am in the process of changing the standard toggle switches in my house for Lutron Maestro Digital Switch. My goal is to have Lutron dimmers, switches and wall plate to have a consistent look across the house. That's why I am trying to find a way to power on and off the fireplace with one a Lutron Maestro switch.

I would really appreciate if someone could help me figure out how this would work! Thank you!


texts: Can I remove this paneling from behind the wall?

texts:
I am attempting to run wire up a wall and hit an interesting problem behind the drywall.
Behind the drywall is what appears to be inch thick wood paneling.

Apologies for the rotation, will fix.
Behind the paneling is, I think, blocking which I have to drill through to get the wire where I need it.
Can I cut out this paneling to give me access to the blocking?
The house was built in 1905, and renovated sometime in the last 30 years.
Also, can anyone identity the paper between the drywall and the wood? It appears to be a thin wood laminate with a paper back?


texts: What makes a certain fixture burn through bulbs?

texts: I have one outdoor fixture that inn which the bulbs burn within two or three months of being installed. This happens with both cfl and incandescent bulbs. Any ideas why this is happening?


texts: How can I reattach a drain pipe that detached under the sink?

texts:
Recently, I had a clog in my bathroom sink that I wanted to attempt to fix myself. Believing the clog to be in the P-trap, I bought a pipe wrench, removed the trap, cleaned it out, and attempted to fit it back onto the sink (side note: the clog was actually at the top of the drain, which I later discovered; who knew?). However, when I attempted to reattach it, the pipe that drops down from the base of the sink came detached — it appears that it was only held on by some kind of seal between it and a rubber washer. Now, when I run water, it leaks out of the base of the sink (and also the top end of the P-trap, but I may not have tightened that enough).

How should I go about reattaching it? Is it as simple as getting some kind of putty to fix the seal, or am I maybe not aligning the P-trap correctly?

Edit: I thought an illustration of the problem might be helpful: https://vimeo.com/68243871


texts: How can I insulate my fireplace when it's not in use?

texts:
I have a wood burning fireplace insert, that is not currently being used.

Now that it's cold in my area (27F), I've noticed that there is quite a draft coming from the fireplace. How can I cover/insulate the fireplace to stop the draft?
Rules:

Must be wife approved (so not too ugly).
Must stop the draft.
Must be easily removable.
Must be safe when fireplace is in use.

I've seen solutions where a sewn blanket is hung over the fireplace, using hook and loop tape. I have my fears that the hook and loop tape would not fair so well while a fire is burning, but I'm not sure how hot the face of the fire box gets (since we've not had a fire yet).


texts: Rheem PowerVent Hot Water Heater - Ignition Attempt Error Code Resolution?

texts:
There is a Rheem PowerVent (Model No. 42VP40FW) 40 gallon natural gas hot water heater installed in my home. Currently it is displaying the error code for "Maximum amount of ignition attempts has been reached and the system is in lockout." (Error code: Vacation Light, A light, B light on a White Rodgers IntelliVent control unit).

The symptoms follow: The unit is turned on, the power vent fan begins to run, the hot surface ignitor glows, there is a click, gas is released and the unit fires properly and begins heating. After approximately 5 minutes there is another click and the gas supply is cut off (I assume) and the unit turns off. The unit begins to cycle as described above, however, after the hot surface ignitor glows there is no ignition. The unit then continues to cycle unit the error code displays.

The first repair attempt: Assuming that the flame sensor needed cleaning I carefully removed the burner unit and cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool. While inside the unit I also cleaned the combustion chamber and the burner itself. All parts were re-assembled and properly replaced. The symptoms described above continue.

The second repair attempt: Assuming that the flame sensor needed replacement I purchased the hot surface ignitor replacement kit for the hot water heater (new hot surface ignitor, new flame sensor, new wiring harnesses, new burner access door gasket, etc.). After installing the kit the symptoms described above continue.

Other checks: I have confirmed that the pressure switches on the power vent unit appear to be working correctly and there are no blockages in the small hose on the power vent. Everything is clean and the unit is installed in a dry, normal humidity level area (utility closet in a 4th floor condo).

At this point I believe the issue must be the  White Rodgers IntelliVent control unit, and if so, I will just purchase and install a new hot water heater. Before doing that I wanted to see if anyone else has guidance or suggestions for me to continue. Thank you all for reviewing my DIY question...


texts: 4 can lights not working.  Found (with a voltage pen tester) that the neutral is hot in the cans and at both 3-way switches. Pulled the wires and the switches from the boxes. Used a digital volt meter, found the neutral lines and one hot wire at, both switch locations, read 119v when checked with the ground wire. In the panel box I found 2 ground wires melted together just before they go into the bus-bar. Can this cause the hot neutral wires?


texts: Should I worry about losing 10liter water/day? (2.5gallon)

texts:
After using 100m^3 extra water last year, I installed a Raspberry Pi with a camera to look at my water meter. Soon it will be able to cut off the water on excessive drain (like a forgotten garden hose).
I have stopped the toilets leaking, and now I'm down to losing about ½liter per hour.
It is on the hot water (shower) circuit, If I close the hot water, no drain.
Each little blip on the graph is 1/8 turn of the 1l dial on the meter, i.e. 0.125l.

Here the hot water is turned off at 11:20

It must be under the floor.
In the bathroom (but the plumbing is in the wall) and the boilerroom, the floor is tiles on top of concrete, then some isolation.
In the kithen I believe is (from bottom) earth, concrete, insulation, chipboard, floorboards, but the pipes just comes in from the boilerroom, then up to the sink.

It can't be upstairs; a bucket of water would be noticed.
If I just monitor the loss, and it does not get worse, is it worth going through the concrete to find this small leak?

[*] For non-metric, each blip is 1/4 pint, 1/2 cup, and the loss is about 2½ gallon per day.

The software is an adaption of https://blog.m.nu/vattenmatning-med-raspberry-pi-och-webkamera/ in Swedish, I'm afraid.

I could put it on github I guess...

There is a gap between the pressure valve outlet and the drain, but I have left a cup there for 15 minutes, and it is completely dry.


texts: Reason for 2 cat5 cables to RJ11 Phone Jack?

texts:
I popped off a wall jack for one of the phone connections in my house because I was curious to see if it was using cat5 that I could use to change some of them to rj45 for ethernet instead and got what seems to be 2 cat5 cables. (Green and brown cables have been folded back and taped to the wires)

I'm interested if anyone knows why there would be 2 of these cables hooked up because anything I've found online with these jacks has just been 1 cable.


texts:
I have two wall's light switches I am replacing with new ones.

For one of them, there are 5 wires. Two white (capped and not used), two black and a red. This light switch controls one ceiling light.

Another one has 6 wires, 2 red (connected), 2 white (connected) and 2 black (capped and not used.) This light switch controls two ceiling lights.

The new switch I want to replace with has three slots (two gold and one green).

I have looked through tutorials online but they use examples that don't quite fit my scenarios. For the first picture, I placed the two black into the new switch and connect the red into green. But it doesn't work.

For the second picture, I have no idea how to connect the 4 wires into the new switch that takes only 3.


texts: AC smells horrible - Clorox in the drain tube fixes it temp

texts:
I moved into a upstairs apartment- studio 425 sq feet. The building is a 2 story building. It was built in 1971.

There is a horrible foul smell from my central AC. When it is not running and with windows open, I can smell it from the AC closet that it sits in. When the AC runs, my apartment will randomly smell horrible. Even my clothes will absorb the smell and I can smell that foul smell at work.

The drainage tube connects my AC with my neighbors downstairs. It has a T pipe and I can pour Clorox in it. If I pour a cup of Clorox down in it every few hours, it rids the foul smell. But it also makes my apartment smell like Clorox and I am not sure if that is healthy. If don't pour Clorox in it...the foul odor comes back with in about 9 hours.

I thought at first the AC coil was dirty, but if I am able to get rid of the smell with Clorox in the drainage tube then I don't know what is going. Can anyone please tell me what is going on with the AC? I'm not getting any help from the landlord.


texts: Dry Rot (?) in Exterior Trim, patch or replace?

texts:
There is some moderate deterioration and cracking in part of the exterior trim of my house. I believe the trim in question is cedar.

Looking for repair advice.

My thoughts were:

1) Get some epoxy wood filler (Abatron WoodEpox) and attempt the repair. My only fear here is that the decay seems to be fairly deep.

2) Attempt to find lumber of the same size. Use a multi-tool to cut out that section of trim ~ 3 feet from the corner and replace.

Are there any alternatives to what I was considering? Is it worth attempting the epoxy route?

Photos of damaged area:


texts: How often should "self clean" and "allergen clean" functions be used in an air conditioner?

texts:
Some air conditioners, for example Mitsubishi heavy industries SRK20ZJ-S have "self clean" and "allergen clean" functions. First takes 2 hours to complete, latter 1.5 hours.

How often should they be used? I understand this depends, but roughly - once per day/week/month?


texts: How to build a small set of steps/stairs

texts: I just had a paver patio installed and had the builder re-install the old wooden steps that he removed to do the work. We did this as a cost savings measure since stone steps would've doubled the price of the project. Now with this nice new patio, our old steps look pretty decrepit. I would like to replace the steps I have with something similar, maybe using a composite decking material if possible both for looks and for longevity. Can anyone provide some insight for a do-it-yourselfer? There are only about four steps/stairs that make up the unit.


texts: How do I stop the second floor of my house from being so hot in the summer and so cold in the winter

texts: I have a window AC upstairs in the summer but it is not enough I can fell the heat coming off of the ceiling in the summer and in the winter it is way to cold that my kids have to sleep downstairs please help


texts: How should I secure spindles on a baserail without a groove?

texts:
I would like to replace a single piece metal spindle with wooden spindles, however, the metal is just screwed into the baserail, which does not have a groove.  So I cannot follow instructions like these where the spindles are kept in place with 'fillets' while they are being pinned.  The top handrail does have a groove on the underside, so that will be fine, but what do I do about the baserail?

Edit: added a couple of pictures.  Note how ugly it is, and how it isn't actually even attached to the handrail!


texts: How can I take apart this leaking outdoor faucet?

texts:
I have looked up how to take apart a leaky outdoor faucet. Unfortunately it looks like my faucet does not match the videos/pics I have seen.

Most videos show removing the knob, removing the nut which is around the stem, then removing the assembly which screws into the faucet housing to get at the washer.

Does where the arrow point actually come apart, because I have not felt any give on this at all and I am worried about damaging the line leading to the faucet.

Is there another faucet type I am dealing with here?

Here's the topview just to help with the identify.


texts: How can I implement an unused wire as a C wire for my thermostat?

texts:
I have a boiler system that uses 2 wires to the thermostat. I am going to buy a new thermostat that needs a C wire. There is a spare wire not being used and it is not hooked up to anything.

How can I use this spare wire and hook it up to a transformer I will install near the boiler, where the wire is?


texts: Who can give PAT test labels out in the UK?

texts:
Can any registered electrician give an item a PAT test label, or does it require membership of an additional trade body of some kind?

Also, is it legal to sell these items to certified electricians when working in a shop? If so, do they require any particular identification to buy them?


texts:
Hello I am fairly new to the the whole DIY stuffs and since I don't live in that house anymore I do not have a picture of the problem. I did search online for the issue but all of them has the American toilet model (which has the out pipe under the toilet) which is different that mine and I already have a solution to fix it.

The actual problem I am facing is the screws aren't helps and the material which places the toilet in place is now dissolved or missing. I would like to know are there any kind of fills or material (other than cement) which I can use to fill the gap of the toilet and the ground to hold it firm. I thought of Gypsum Plaster but found out they are not good for moist area. Hope I conveyed the problem somewhat comprehensively. English isn't my first language so apologies for the clarity.

Edit

This is roughly what I meant by the different design, as you can see the outflow pipe in attached with a sort of wall mount.


texts:
I have a question regarding painting some chipped ceilings. I have a really old house, and it's been painted several times before I got it. A couple of rooms in my home have LARGE spots of the ceiling that have chipped, exposing the primer coat, or possibly the first coat ever applied, underneath. I am talking large spots, like 4'x4' areas.

What is the best way to re-paint these? I assume just painting over the whole ceiling, it would still be visible through the paint. Does the whole ceiling need to be scraped and repainted, or do I need to sand down the edges of the chip so that it's smooth and level, then apply the paint?

One of these ceilings is a knock-down stucco texture (It looks like somebody used a trowel to apply texture to the ceiling, then knocked it down), so it may be extremely difficult to repair.


texts: How to drive a nail in a confined space?

texts:
I keep finding myself needing to hammer nails in places where my hammer is too long to actually make the hammer head contact the nail. This isn't a situation where I need the leverage provided by the handle - I'm choking the hammer anyway for added control and less mess should a strike slip off the nailhead - but I'd rather not saw off a good hickory handle. (And forget trying to hacksaw through a metal handle.)

What I keep wishing for is basically a metal ovoid with a flattened surface, basically a big flat hammer head I can swing with one hand. Does such exist? Or is there some other tool I should be using instead?

I've tried using a nailset, but while it's great for insetting an already driven nail, it's too finicky to get a nail started.

To provide context, I'm trying to hammer in cable staples in the space between the top of the foundation and the ceiling in a basement. That gives me a workspace of about 6 in in height, 16 in in width, and maybe 10 in in depth. With the staple inset about 5 in from the right and towards the back of the space, I can't tuck a hammer crossways into the space to swing at the nails, and the space is too deep and not high enough for me to hang the handle over the ledge and swing down.

ETA: Wow, thanks for the fast (and unanimous) responses! I now have an M12 battery-powered palm nailer on the way. I'm not keen on the noise and hose-dragging of a compressor, and I've got the "swap out the battery" rhythm down from using the M12 impact driver.


texts: What could be wrong with my dryer timer?

texts:
Mom's dryer timer quit working a while ago and I told her not to leave it with time on, but she did anyways ("If you turn it to zero it will never turn back on!")

Now, if the timer is turned to any amount of time and the door is shut, it buzzes. Like, an electrical hum/buzz/something.

It also doesn't start.

Company is Tappan Appliances (old, yes) and model is 47-2451-00/0
What could be wrong? Is it fixable? Anyone know how to fix it?


texts: Can you have a GFCI breaker protecting a GFCI receptacle?

texts:
We have electrical outlets in two bathrooms on the same GFCI breaker.  I would like to put a GFCI outlet for the only outlet in the guest bathroom so it can be easily reset if tripped.

Can this be done with the GFCI breaker?


texts: How can I get my thermostat C wire connected?

texts: I have an older furnace, on the switch block I have Y,C.W,R and an unlabeled screw that connects to the shut off it looks like. I need to hook up a thermostat that needs the C wire. I have a spare wire, in the bundle which I hooked up to the c terminal downstairs, from these videos that I've seen it tells me to then bridge the Y and G together, I do not have a G on the block, what do I need to do to get the neutral wire set up


texts: I recently replaced the pivot rod in my bathroom sink drain. Over the course of the 3 days it took me to finally come to a resolution for it, the cold water handle has gotten tight. The hot water handle moves fluidly as it used to, but now, all of a sudden, the cold water handle is hard to turn. I don't remember tightening any of the nuts or bolts under the sink. How can I fix this problem?


texts: Can't hook up new faucet to shut off valve

texts:
I am replacing bathroom faucet with American Standardfaucet.  My shut off valve has a tapered connection and will not accept the new faucet connection-threads will not reach.
Is there an adapter or do I have to replace shut off valve


texts: How can I protect hardwood floors from a deep freezer defrosting?

texts:
I want to get a small deep freezer for my kitchen upstairs. I have hardwood floors and I am concerned about potential water damage from a power outage and the freezer defrosting and getting water all over my floor.

Is there any type of mat or covering that would protect the floors in the event that this might happen?


texts: I'm installing a new window to type AC using a 30 amp double pole breaker and a 10 guage wire. Since I already have a 30 amps line that runs my existing AC, is it ok? to connect to the existing line with 30 amps with another 30 amps?


texts: Can a Dremel Circle Cutter be used on 20mm thick wood?

texts:
Will the Dremel Circle Cutter cut through 20mm wood? Its just regular wood am using.

The product details page on the Dremel site just states:

  Depth adjustment allows easy setting of the correct cutting depth

without indicating what the maximum depth is.


texts: How can I wire several switches which each control an overlapping subset of my lights?

texts:
I want to wire a circuit that has 3 switches and 3 lights. S1 controls L1 and S2 and S3 control all three lights so basically when I turn on S1 it only turns on L1 and when I turn on either s2 or s3 all three lights turn on.
Here's a table of how I'd like this to work:
S1=ON  S2=Off S3=off == L1=on L2=off L2=off
S1=off S2=On  S3=off == L1=on L2=on  L3=on
S1=off S2=off S3=On  == L1=on L2=on  L3=on
S1=on S2=on S3=on == L1 =on L2= on L3=on
S1=on S2=on S3=off== L1 =on L2=on L3=on
S1=on S2=off S3=on== L1=on L2=on L3=on


texts: Is there any problem with installing a prehung inswing exterior door backwards as an outswing?

texts:
My local home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowes only have prehung inswing exterior doors, and I could special order an outswing prehung door but they're like $310+ whereas the equivalent inswing doors are around $170. I really don't want to pay double just because I'm installing an outswing door. Is there anything wrong with reversing a prehung door designed to inswing in terms of waterproofing or something I'm not considering? I'll of course switch to security hinges so you can't just pop the pins out and take the door off from the outside. Also I was wondering if it's possible to reverse the bottom plate so that it looks correct?

Thanks


texts: Router bit suitable for straight cuts in pine 1/2" deep; Dutchman door patch

texts:
I'm replacing Mortise locks with contemporary levers on solid wood doors in my apartment. The doors are pine, 1 3/4" thick. I've removed the Mortise locks, leaving behind two large holes and the Mortise cut-out in the door (first photo).

My goal is to stain the doors, so I want to patch the entire area and avoid using fillers for a nice, clean look; I believe this type of patch is called a  Dutchman Patch (second photo).

I purchased a low-end plunge router to cut out the area, but I'm not exactly sure what size bit is suitable to cut 1/2" deep; the area is about 4" x 7". In the video they mention "upwards spiraling" bit, I'm assuming this means "up-cut", I'm just not sure what shank size and bit diameter is suitable for cutting this area effectively, cleanly, and without me standing there for an hour; I have to make 9 of these, correction, 18 (doors have two sides :-D )

Question

What shank size and bit diameter is suitable for cutting out the area for the patch?


texts: ITE bus stab amperage limit for tandem breakers

texts:
We want to run some sub-panels off of our 100 amp, 12 space, ITE main panel. (According to another forum, Gould bought ITE in 1976, and Siemens bought Gould in 1983.)

Siemens I-T-E Load Center has the following prohibition regarding tandem breakers:

"SUM OF QT BREAKER RATING IS NOT TO EXCEED 110 AMPS PER BRANCH CIRCUIT BUS STAB."

(The quoted text is printed on the back of the panel - I copied the above from the same forum.)

Now, the above seems clear, but let me ask anyway: does that mean I can exceed that limit with non-tandem breakers?  For instance, can I have a tandem breaker on the one side, say with 2 15-amp branch circuits on it, and a 100-amp, simple breaker on the other?

I have to say it strikes me an odd limitation - the main breaker should cut off power at 100 amps...

I apologize for the silly question, but I would rather not burn the house down (or worse, go for an extended period without power when the inspector disagrees with the setup).


texts:
I'm finishing a room that was built between the house and detached garage. I know I need to put 5/8" drywall for fire protection after insulating the wall. Do I also need vapor barrier? If so, how do I install it around laundry hookups?

(I'm in California, so the climate is mild)


texts:
I have a Sunbeam electrical kettle that started leaking.  I took it apart and found a crack in one of the rubber gasket/grommet pieces that hold the plastic water reservoir in place on the metal kettle base.  I tried ordering a replacement one and was told that it wasn't possible (they don't have a code for that part, or some such nonsense).

So, the options are:

use some sort of glue to fix the crack in the gasket
toss out the gasket and seal around the hole with something like caulk or glue

My problem with either option is knowing what glue/sealant to use that would be appropriate for something holding drinking water and that frequently goes back and forth between 20C and 100C.

Here's a link to the kettle in question: http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/red-chrome-kettle-bvsbkt3234r-033/6000065495084

Edit:
I have a small tube of Krazy Glue...  Would that be safe?