texts: Gas Furnace blowing hot air into room, flue is cold

texts: We have a 2-year old gas furnace connected to water pipes and radiators throughout the house. It just turned on for the first time this year and is blowing a large amount of very hot air directly into our basement from the front of the furnace. When and after it is lit the flue on top remains cold to the touch. It has not gotten too cold here yet and has only run a few times, but I noticed this when I was doing laundry and it was unusually hot in the room. I don't remember it ever putting out so much hot air in the past. We have a CO detector somewhat nearby and it has not been set off, but it seems like the exhaust is being released directly into the room and not exiting through the flue. We had a yearly checkup on the equipment only a few weeks ago and the tech said everything was OK, but it was still warm outside and he only ran it for a few minutes. I'm thinking this is cause for concern especially because in the next few weeks it will be getting quite cold and we'll be running it continuously. Has anyone seen a similar issue?


texts: Is long waste pipe OK for food waste disposer?

texts:
I am interested in food waste disposer, the model is InSinkErator Evolution 200 premium food waste disposer.

What concerns me is that in the kitchen we have a long horizontal waste pipe under the floor (see the attached picture). So my question is if such pipe could couse problems? F.i. grinded food keeps in the horizontal pipe.

Thanks!


texts:
A pair of adapters is bridging CPVC to PEX.  The pair is coupled through threaded brass: PTFE Teflon tape was applied.  There is a very slight leak in the brass threading.  Any suggestions remedy the threaded brass is appreciated.
I am tempted to find a single adapter to bridge the CPVC to PEX, however I am hoping that the threaded brass leak-fix is simpler.
Update: the threaded brass adapters were removed in favor of a Lowe's CPVC to PEX adapter.  Unfortunately the Home Depot Unicorn adapter was 60 miles.


texts: Can moisture travel through a microporous filler and fuel mould growth?

texts:
I would like to use this product to fill holes due to it bring good for sensitive people:  https://auropaint.co.uk/product/natural-wall-filler-no-329/
However it says that it is micro poros which means it allows water vapours to go through.
Does this mean if I use it to fill a hole in my bathroom, and there is mold inside the wall, moisture will be able to travel through the filler and fuel mold growth on the other side?  Conversely can mold vapors travel through the filler also?
Thanks.


texts: I have 220 running to my irrigation pump drawing from my pond.  I want to add aeration.  Can I gang 220?


texts: garage door button on the wall does not work but remote control does open and close garage door

texts: My remote control opens & closes  the garage door but the button on the wall does not work.


texts: Hi we have a water pump in our building i wanted to change its cut in and cut off pressures but i couldn't understand pressure switch's setting also there is pressure gauge but i think it's not functioning correctly because i couldn't find a pattern on that this is a picture of the pressure switch i want to know what is it's current pressure range ty


texts:
I've purchased an illuminated mirror (with a built in light strip around the outside) for my bathroom remodel. I'm trying to figure out the best way to wire it.

I have the wiring prepped for a new outlet in the wall behind the mirror. The back of the mirror is flat, and sits flush against the wall. The electric connection for the mirror is a wire with un-terminated ends. The instructions provided for wiring are below:

Options I'm considering:

Based on the instructions, in appears the suggestion is similar to a ceiling fan or light fixture, wire-nut the wires to the mains connection, stuff it inside a wall-box, and conceal with the mirror. Will this satisfy code? Is there a faceplate I should be using with the wall-box?
Install a recessed outlet, terminate the mirror wires in the flattest grounded plug I can find, and hope the plug isn't proud of the wall so the mirror can sit flush

Or any other suggestions?


texts: shower shock,when hot or cold water is used in other parts of house

texts: our 2 showers, we can't run any other hot or cold water without get extreme hot or cold differentials while in the shower.bought house last year,built in 1985.


texts: How do I properly nail two 2x4's at a 90 degree angle?

texts:
Nail the horizontal 2x4 into the vertical 2x4 about 1/4 of the way down from the top of the vertical 2x4, so they are at a 90 degree angle.

The way I've been nailing this scenario is to just nail through the vertical 2x4 at a 0 degree angle, directly into the middle of the end piece of the horizontal 2x4.

I've read though, that the pros like nail at a 45 degree angle, so that the nail doesn't go through the end piece of the horizontal 2x4, but through the top part. Is this correct? I don't like having the end part of the nail stick out.. even if I hammer the sharp point towards the wood.

So are my projects going to not last long if nailing directly into the end piece? They seem to work just fine for the time being, but am wondering what the correct approach is. Thoughts on this?

Obviously I'd have another vertical 2x4 on the other side too, so it stands up.

* Ignore the green and red brush lines, accidentally saved over what I wanted


texts: Filling a screw hole that turned crooked and broke the surface of a hollow core door

texts:
I installed the hardware for this pocket door about 1/8" too close to the front edge of the door. The screw holes are not only in the wrong place now, but they turned diagonal and broke out the inner surface of the cutout.
When I reinstall the hardware, the new holes will only be 1/8" behind the current ones (and will hopefully be straight and not track into the old diagonal holes).
I've seen the common advice about using dowels and/or sawdust and wood glue to fill holes like this, but it seems in this case like it might be harder due to the broken surface (it's now no longer a simple hole).
Are there are any more specific tips I should be aware of for this unique case?


texts: What does a pressure regulator look like?

texts:
The water pressure in my flat has been getting lower and lower.
It is my understanding that checking the pressure regulator is a good first step, but I am unsure about what to look for.
Is it that thing?

Bonus question: if it is it, how would you add a manometer to this installation?


texts: How do I remove the valve stem from a kitchen sink?

texts: I have a kitchen sink that is not attached to a counter. I am trying to replace an old one to a new one. It has a two handle lever and for the life of me I can not remove the handles and the valves. They are not the screw on top handles. I've looked on line with no results.Can anyone help me?


texts: How do I properly size an air conditioner for a very sunny room?

texts:
I'm trying to size a window air conditioner for a room, but having trouble deciding if the usual guidelines are a good fit.

The room in question is about 230 sq. feet, and does not have full 8 foot ceilings, as part of the room is formed by the gable roof.  Based on this I would pick a 6000 BTU unit.  However, the room is also roofline with black asphalt shingles, east/west/southern exposure, the long dimension of the space being southern exposure with 2 south-facing skylights.  There's no natural shading, and the room is also above an uncooled garage space.  I typically see a 10% fudge factor recommended for "sunny rooms", but don't have a clear idea of what constitutes a "sunny room".  Would this heat load significantly exceed that factor, and by how much?


texts: Where are the Interior water valves for my outdoor hose bibs?

texts: I live in a condo in Northeast Ohio.  No basement, small patio with outside hose bibs.  Interior wall has corner gas fireplace.  I and two plumbers have searched everywhere for the interior valves to turn on outside water.  They both found piping inside fireplace [REALLY!!] and no valve.  Nothing found in small utility room.  Behind washer/dryer is a valve for water spout in garage.  This valve should be visible and not hidden.  Condo built in 2002.  ANY IDEAS/SUGGESTIONS - WHERE OH WHERE IS THE VALVE?  THANK YOU!!


texts: How to remove a Screw or bolt fastened with metal epoxy

texts:
I have done a mistake by adding metal epoxy to a machine screw.

I added that because that screw did not fit. but later it was turned out that it is a wrong screw that I used. Now I cannot unscrew it. I tried adding alcohol, WD40. But it didn't work. Do you have any suggestion to remove this epoxy and unscrew it.


texts: What type of wire do I need for garage door sensors?

texts:
My garage door is failing to close.  The light blinks 10 times and the internal indicator light blinks twice.  Also, the sensors seem to be working properly.  From my research, this indicates there is a short/fault in the sensor wiring.  The wiring to the sensors is done rather shoddily.  The wires have multiple splices, some held together with electrical tape, some splices are exposed and just twisted together.  In addition to that, its hung in a half-ass way.  So I thought I would remove the old wiring and put it new wiring.  However, I do not know what type of wire to purchase.

What should I be getting?


texts: When, if at all, are Insulation Resistance (or Megger) tests on an electrical system useful?

texts:
I had some close (though not direct) lightning strikes that fried some electronics and appliances (computer, TV, AC, modem, router, spread across several circuits) over several years / storms.

I had some electricians out to to give quotes to install a whole-home surge protector and redo the grounding, in hopes of preventing these issues in the future, and asked what else could be done. Some recommended a Megger test, and they said it would show if the wiring was damaged by the surges. They also said it was ~$150 per circuit (my panel has ~20 circuits), and I'd have to unplug everything from the circuit (including receptacles, tying together the wires in the boxes). On top of that, if anything showed amiss in the test, they said they wouldn't be able to restore the circuit until the affected wiring was replaced - potentially the entire branch circuit.

Because of the extreme cost and effort, I wound up not doing it. I haven't been able to find much information about these tests. So, my question(s) is (are), are they actually useful? When would a homeowner typically get this test done? Is it typical or recommended to meg test all of the circuits, or just some?


texts: How do I prevent interior doors from sticking in the winter?

texts: We have several interior doors that only stick or won't completely close in the winter. We also get cracks in the drywall mud above the doors so I think something else is going on besides just humidity changes in the door and frame. This is a wood framed house with wood trusses and a metal standing seam old-fashioned roof. I remember hearing a DIY radio show discussing the issue but I can't remember the solution. I think it had something to do with the wooden trusses in the attic. Any information is appreciated.


texts: Sauna heater wiring from 3 prong to 4 prong

texts:
30 amp sauna heater that I need to wire. I plan on using my dryer outlet which is 4 prong but my sauna heater is 3 prong if I'm not mistaken as it has "L1, L2, ground."

My question is could I purchase an 8/3 and just cap off the neutral on both sides?

I plan to run the cord about 25 feet from the heater to the dryer outlet.

I plan on buying a NEMA 14-30P but capping off both ends of the wire. Is this okay or is better to just electrical tape it?


texts:
I've lived in my house for several years without any smell issues. For the past few days, when I go outside for more than 5 minutes, when I go back into my house it's apparent that there's a very distinct "dirt smell" permeating the entire house and basement. It's not subtle. My nose gets completely used to it in about 30 seconds, so I have very short stints of sniffing around trying to find the source.
I've looked everywhere for water spots or dampness, and I couldn't find anything.
Any suggestions on things to look for, or what kind of service could help out?


texts: Parallel (2) 20 amp 220 12 ga wires into one 30 amp 220 Breaker OK?

texts:
I am attempting to replace 2 ovens that currently each have their own dedicated 20 amp 220v circuits. (12 ga wire)

My new modern GE double oven requires a single 30 amp, 220 circuit. (10 ga wire)

Since they are dedicated wires going to the same place, and my new 30 amp 220 breaker accepts (2) 12 ga wires, can't I just wire these in parallel? Red to Red, Black to Black, White to White? Two 12 ga should theoretically be good up to 40 amps, and I am only going to ask for 30 amps tops.

I know it would be better to pull 50' of dedicated 10 ga cable but it would be very difficult with my home layout. Unless one of the paralleled 12 ga wires spontaneously broke by itself I can't see any danger such as the full load of 30 amp attempting to be carried by the single 12 ga wire?

Or,,,, should I stick with the 4 breakers I currently have, (each 20 amp), and just join them at the connection to the oven... That way each breaker is protecting a single 12ga wire and would trip if any one of them went individually over 20 amps. (it may sound strange but the current configuration has 4 separate 20 amp breakers,,, not 2 legs ganged/joined together.)

I hope that makes sense.. Thanks anyone for your help!!!

Herb


texts: Why is my 3 way switch suddenly not working?

texts:
I just replaced the switches on a 3 way light fixture and wired them exactly how they were from the wall before.  When I turned the power back on everything worked fine and the 2 switches activated the ceiling lights as they were supposed to.  About an hour or 2 goes by and now neither switch works and I haven't the slightest clue why.  I went to the panel and cycled the circuit but it didn't help.

Anyone know what may be causing them to suddenly stop working.

They are brand new switches and one of the hot wires on one switch has some splitting of the protective cover but I taped it with electrical tape.


texts: How to fix a toilet which continuously runs

texts:
Yesterday I saw the water of my toilet kept running. The gap at the arrow did not close.

May I know what should I buy to fix it?


texts:
Yesterday I was connecting a large toroidal transformer to an unused 240V 15A circuit in my apartment (US split phase) for testing. I plugged it in and I heard the breaker trip after a few seconds.
I wasn't expecting that much magnetizing current so I probed the outlet with my DMM and got a very strange reading—80V line to line and 40V between both lines and ground.
I was worried the 30+ year old breaker might have "partially" tripped (presenting a fire hazard) so I didn't think to test it with my low-impedance meter. I immediately shut off the breaker by hand and re-tested the outlet, which now read 0V (so I don't think it was ghost voltage anyway).
Does this sound like the breaker is faulty and partially tripped? I doubt it's ever tripped in its life as it's normally used for the in-wall air conditioner. Are there any other potential scenarios that could cause the breaker to act in this way?
I plan to redo the test later today and if it fails in the same manner I'll contact the landlord to have it replaced, but I want to make sure it really is faulty first.
If it is indeed faulty and I'm only using it under supervision with proper fusing on the DUT and current monitoring, are there any potential risks to using it while we await replacement? There are no other devices on this circuit; the only other 240V device is the stove and that has its own 40A circuit...so unless the breaker has some internal resistance I can't see any problems.


texts: Recirculation pump seems to be working, yet no detectable heat on return pipe

texts:
Our two-story-on-a-slab house has uninsulated copper pipes, including a recirculation return pipe to a tee on the water heater drain. In past years, the recirculation seemed to give us hot water fairly well (though at an energy cost), but less well of late.
We recently changed out the hot water heater, and replumbed the recirculation system because of physical differences. We found that the return check valve was stuck open by calcium deposits, and the aquastat was not even connected. We have added a timer for the recirculation. The existing pump is a Grundfos UP 15-42 SF (59896171). AC power to the pump measures 75 watts and 75 VA.
A water pressure gauge on a tee at the water heater drain measures a rise of 5 psi when the pump runs, so seems to say that the pump works.
But, we find that even after letting the pump run for an hour, there is no detectable heat on the return pipe, and no hot water available at faucets. Where do we start in getting this to work properly?

P.S. We also have a Chilipepper demand pump in the master bedroom bath, farthest from the water heater, and it works great (crossover hot to cold until temp rises); but wife objects to the noise, and would like the timed recirc to work.

old photo - http://smg.photobucket.com/user/acellier/media/Recirculation/2014%2010%2017%20old%20water%20heater.jpg.html
new photo - http://smg.photobucket.com/user/acellier/media/Recirculation/2015%2003%2011%20installation.jpg.html

A thought - could the heater possibly have a check valve on the drain???


texts: Single tile and drywall repair with a backing stud

texts:
Had to knock out a single tile to repair a toilet supply line/valve. Luckily there’s a stud behind the knocked out tile. What’s the best way to repair the drywall and tile for just a single tile (with pipe obstruction)? My plan is:

Chip away the rest of the damaged tile and drywall.

Drill hole in drywall patch for pipe or cut semicircles in two pieces.

Screw drywall piece(s) into single stud in center. Fill borders with joint compound. Prepare surface and affix tile later.

My principal concern is if attaching the drywall patch to a single stud will be stable enough. I can’t use mesh patch because the neighboring drywall has intact tile.
Alternatively I can knock out additional tiles to the left and the drywall patch over two studs for firmer attachment.


texts: Can I connect a GFCI outlet's ground screw to the neutral wire if no ground wire is available?

texts: I noticed with a two wire cable (with a ground), the ground and neutral wires in the circuit breaker box all connect together. If I have a two wire only cable to a new three wire receptacle can I install a jumper from the neutral to the ground terminal in the receptacle box with the same results?


texts: How can I identify which neighboring houses are fed from the same distribution transformer?

texts:
I (and some neighbors) want to use Ethernet-over-powerline extenders to join computer networks in adjacent houses.  This is never a 'supported' use case with this gear, and I doubt the power company will want to spend time looking things up for me.  I don't really want to entertain that conversation with them.

My neighborhood has all buried utility service.  There are large metal green boxes on cement pads between some houses with transformers in them, and smaller plastic boxes which are just junctions or conduit ends I think, between other houses.  Approximately three houses for each pad mounted transformer.

My first thought was to try using my old x-10 gear between houses, but x-10 is such junk it didn't work on the same power strip...

I have an HP communications cable toner/tracer, but it's meant for 20-28 gauge copper.  I imagine I could use a toner (relatively) safely on the neutral, but can I expect it to work at hundreds of feet distance on 2 ought aluminum worth a damn?

Is there a better trick to tell if we're on the same transformer before I buy the networking gear?  I don't really want to run extension cords across the street.

What other equipment communicates over powerline that I'm just not thinking of that I could use to test?


texts: Entire living room circuit suddenly controlled by hallway lightswitch

texts:
Came home today and turned on the hallway light while unloading some shopping. Now suddenly when I turn it off, it turns off every outlet in the living room along with the ceiling fan and overhead light.

I'm at a loss for what the hell is going on. This seems like a serious issue, could I be at risk of a house fire?


texts: Main floor fireplace protruding into basement

texts:
I am finish the basement in my house built in 1926. Underneath the main level fireplace there is an angled section which is what I assume is for the ashes to fall down into a small door in the basement wall for ash collection. A portion of that angled section is below the bottom of the joists, and to the inside of the new framing.

My question is, can I notch the 2x4s (see photos and video) so the ceiling drywall can lie flush? Or are they load bearing and I should cut the drywall around them leaving some rather aesthetically unpleasant blemishes.


texts: Is vinegar really an effective carpet cleaner?

texts: I've been doing some research to find a way to clean cat urine from my carpet, and various sources say diluted vinegar works well.  I've used vinegar as a weed killer, but I'm skeptical it will work as a cleaner.  Is there science behind this, or is it an old wives' tale? Can vinegar really be used to clean cat urine from carpeting? Once the vinegar has eliminated the urine, does it rot/spoil causing additional stains/odor?


texts: How can I prevent my dehumidifier drain line from freezing?

texts:
Is there a 120 Volt switch that would shut down power to a dehumidifier when the outside temperature goes down to 35°F to protect the drain line from freezing. A digital thermometer would need to be mounted outside to detect the 35°F temperature to shut down power to the unit.

I install dehumidification systems to control interior environments after our mold remediation projects but here in the northeastern USA, the temperature freezes the drain lines and the units no longer have a self draining operation.


texts: So I have a three switch box and one goes to a light/receptacle outlet on the wall.  The other two go to my ceiling fan.  When I read the wires out when they are switched off I get 0vac. When I turn on the switch circuit that I'm not reading with my meter, I get anywhere from 28-36vac, then I turn on the switch that I'm connected to with my meter I get 115vac.  Why am I getting the 28-36vac on my meter when I'm flipping the other switch on and off?  The wall receptacle does not have any effect on the voltage in the ceiling.


texts: How do I determine which wax ring to use under my toilet?

texts:
Other questions almost answer this question.

What is the purpose of the flange on the wax ring? I can purchase a ring with or without the flange.

How do I know whether to get the standard ring or the thick ring? I really don't like the idea of trial and error.

1) A leak may not show up until just after I've concluded that there are no leaks.

2) the marginal increase in price for the thicker ring is so small as to make the cost of my time the overwhelming factor (is it safe to always use the thick ring?)


texts: Does the NEC require armored cable in kitchen islands?

texts: One electrician told me that armored cable (BX) wiring must be used in a kitchen island cabinet. Another electrician told me that simple Romex is fine. Which is it? Does the NEC require BX in kitchen islands?


texts: What are some strategies for achieving a 2' eave overhang?

texts:
I am planning a shed-roof (not gable) workshop and would like to have a 2' rake overhang. I know the standard way to frame this would be do to 16" or 1' and support it with blocking, the rafter tail/ridge, and the plywood sheathing.

For a longer overhang, that is not sufficient. What strategies can be used to support a 2' overhang without hurting the structural integrity of the last rafter (which needs to remain in-tact since it is cantilevered, as you can see in the design).


texts: Looking to setup a 100Amp panel in my attached garage and have ideas/questions

texts:
I want to install a 100 Amp panel to my attached garage.  The location is about 50-60' from my service panel, which is 200 amp utility service.  The purpose of this circuit is for a small pottery kiln and circuits for things like a table saw, miter saw, drill press, misc. small things and new lighting.

The kiln draws single phase 240 @~27-35 amps, recommended a 50 amp breaker using a standard 6-50 receptacle.

The workshop will be probably 2-3 20 amp circuits and a 15 for the lights.  There will also be a 20 amp circuit dedicated to ventilation—the fan load is so far < 5 amps, just don't want to limit it.

After a lot of looking around and researching it seems like the best option is to put in a full real panel like this one:

which should give plenty of expansion room and additional safety and other options.

My plan is to bury conduit from my main house panel to feed this new breaker panel in the garage.  Looking into these options and the desire to save money given the price of cable it seems like 1-1-1-3 SER Aluminum cable could fit my needs and should fit in 2" Schedule 40 conduit. SER is not allowed to be buried even in conduit

The problem is when trying to verify this I find a whole lot of arguments but not enough solid code reference as to whether SER cable can be buried in conduit (raceways?). Yup this is not to code, cable must be rated for wet locations to be buried apparently.

While I do want to save money, this has to pass inspection so that is my primary concern.  Seems like if SER is not allowed to be put in buried conduit I need to use THHN or perhaps better XHHW?  I have worked with aluminum wire before just at much lower gauge so not too worried about being able to handle it. (I will be pulling a permit for doing this).

Questions about cable run:

What is the proper type of cable for this run in conduit? SER, USE, THHN, XHHW, XHHW-2? Figured out it should be THWN-2 Not sure of an AL alternative yet though Will be using XHHW-2 CU, found a legit online source.
Can I do this with aluminum wire without having issues later?
My primary goal is 100 amp and I doubt I'll need more than that in the
garage so it doesn't need to be overbuilt too much.
From my research, do I need to bury the conduit at least 18 inches?

For the garage panel I know that since they are not within sight range or reach of each other I must install a main breaker in the garage panel to shut its power off but I had some additional questions there.

I plan to feed the run from 2 50 amp breakers in the main panel; is this
accurate/necessary?  Okay, so this was wrong:  Changing to single 100 amp breaker.  Even checked my notes again and I had this right so derp on this, lol
Should I also put in some kind of service disconnect before the sub
panel in the garage for any reason?

My locale is the U.S. and my city has adopted the following:

2015 International Residential Code (IRC)
2015 International Building Code (IBC)
2014 National Electric Code (NEC)
2015 International Plumbing Code (IPC)
2015 International Mechanical Code (IMC)
2015 International Fuel Gas Code (IFGC)
2015 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC)
2015 International Swimming Pool and Spa Code (ISPSC)
2015 International Existing Building Code (IEBC)
2009 ANSI (As referenced in the 2009 International Building Code)

I tried to provide as much information as I could but let me know if more details/clarification is needed.  Thanks for the help!


texts: Gas range has the wrong burner try to ignite

texts: When I try to light the front right burner, on my Amana first edition range, the front left burner sparks.  The gas turns on to the correct burner but it try to spark the wrong burner.  This problem just popped up out of no where after years of the range working correctly.  I would appreciate any help or advice anyone can share.


texts: Enclosed porch on side of house for washer/dryer. Only light is controlled in kitchen, not at new entry door, so installing 3-way switches. Am bringing power in on new grounded circuit.(house built in 60s so no ground) My question is will it be safe to just put wire nuts on old wiring to original switch and just leave alone for now. Will replace this wiring probably 6 months down the road when I redo kitchen. But for now would like to just cap of the ends and leave since that wire comes in from kitchen light along with other wiring that fans out to receptacles and den etc...


texts:
I have natural gas coming into the side of my house from an underground pipe.  I am considering (hiring it out to a licensed pro, of course) running a line from the meter on the side to the back of my house, where I have a grill.

Can I have the pipe buried, and if so, at what depth?  I would prefer not to have an above ground line snaking around the house due to aesthetics.  Plus, it might be more susceptible to damage.

Again, not going to attempt this myself, just wondering what my options were.


texts: FAULTY MIRROR Is distorting fat to thin how do i correct this

texts: I have just purchased a long mirror & on hanging it (horizontally)  i find It distorts the image  fat & thin . How do i correct this please. I think it is either concave or convex


texts: How can I join an exhaust vent and an existing duct that aren't aligned?

texts:
I'm replacing the over the range microwave in my house, and the new microwave's exhaust vent does not align with the existing ductwork and hole in the wall for the exhaust - neither vertically nor horizontally. I'm unsure of the best way to solve this issue.
Complicating the issue is that the place where the new hole would be placed is centered on a stud. The left side of the duct is very close to or in contact with the stud.
This is an interior wall. The duct work runs up to the roof of the house.
What are my options here? I'm not sure how I could get the air flowing into the existing ductwork.


texts: How do I find the master unit for an intercom?

texts:
I have a 4-wire (I think) intercom/doorbell system in the my house with 3 indoor stations (Pacific Electronic 3404)  and one outdoor station.

My transformer is in the (finished) basement on the west wall of the house; the intercom stations are roughly in the center of the house, and the door is on the southeast side of the house.  All wires immediately go behind sheetrock.

I haven't been able to find the AF-1000 master unit anywhere in the house, though i know that it is somewhere in there.. Is there a procedure that I can use to find it short of ripping out all the sheetrock to trace the wires?

I can't imagine that it is up to code to put this behind sheetrock, but I've looked all over the house for it.


texts: Hook up a light designed for car into a wall socket or battery source

texts: I'm attempting to hook up the Infrared LED LED Light Bar - 54W to either a wall socket or a battery source. I'd like to know what hardware and what wiring I need to accomplish this. Any embelishment on the parameters that are important would be appreciated so I can solve this type of problem in the future. Thanks. -Rik


texts: What advanced features are available for sprinkler systems?

texts: I'm making a sprinkler system for my house before summer gets here. So far I'm thinking of an embedded microcontroller with light and temp sensors, so when the sun goes down and it starts to cool your sprinklers turn on for 20 minutes or so. I might also add soil moisture sensors to regulate time to water per day. What other features are available that I may not be aware of?


texts: Can I add an exhaust fan to bathroom without exterior wall or roof access

texts:
My master bathroom is wired for a fan, but I opened it up and found that it is just venting into the joist between the ceiling and the second floor.

There are no exterior walls to access in the bathroom. Also the joist runs to the main house in one direction, and to a back room in the other.

The back room has the end of a hip roof over it, but I don't think there is any access into the roof section.

So I think the only option would be to bring a vent down the joist, through the wall into ceiling of the back room and out through the roof. Is something like this possible without completely cutting up the ceilings and the roof?

I'll probably have a pro look at it, but how much would something like this cost?


texts: Possible to make a bathroom floor veneer with A4 Paper?

texts:
it would be nice to have a sandy beach photograph on the bathroom floor.

Is it possible to print A4 photos of sand from an online panorama and glue them to the floor, then perhaps varnish them and cover them with plastic varnish gloss to make the floor durable?

Is there a solution to making a strong floor veneer using an ordinary household printer?


texts: How to calculate the influence on load bearing on beams cut/notched for connections?

texts:
I have trouble understanding what's the point in cutting beam endings in order to make wood construction connections. Assume a connection of a 50mm x 50 mm beam (green) to a 100mm x 100mm beam (pink)

with a leaf connection (my translation for - I guess - the simplest wood construction connection consisting of removing half of the diameter of the beam and putting that part into the counterpart connection cut out). I imagine that the forces where the beams connect are the same as on the whole green beam, but the connection must obviously hold because those connections are used in construction, so why not make the beam only half the diameter large/do for the whole beam what works at the location of the connection?

I further assume that there's an impact of the connection cut-out/notch, but it'll be smaller than making only 50% of the bearing load usable (otherwise every wood construction would generally waste up to 50% of its material). How can I estimate this impact.

The leaf connection is used in this example in order to reduce the material which has to be removed from the pink beam.

This might all be not ideal and not true; it's a question to improve my understanding - I'm not the contractor building the schools for your kids.


texts:
Just installed new Honeywell RTH7600.  All wires are correct and the unit displays fine.  The issue is that heater and AC do not turn on at all.  I even put the fan to ON instead of AUTO and that does not turn on either.  not sure what the issue is.

THe unit will display "Heat on" or "Cool on" to indicate that something should be happening.  I hear a click from the unit, but nothing actually happens.

So far I ihave tried power cycling at the circuit breaker.  But im thinking about first re-seating all the wires and second reinstalling the old unit to make sure that still works and that my ac/heater didn't just go out at the same time somehow.


texts:
A company installed a new HVAC system 2 weeks ago. The furnace is a Carrier Infinity 58TN.
Two days ago I noticed a low key constant noise from the furnace in the morning around 6:20 am. The noises were loud enough to draw my attention. I went in and opened the furnace door/outer cover and tried to see where the noise comes from. It seems it is from the box where the blower is located, maybe furnace. I am not a mechanic. Then I gently tapped on the covers, the noise stopped. I thought this may be some kind of vibrations. But this morning around the same time, I heard the noise again. I took off the door and tapped the cover over the blower/furnace, the noise stopped.
Does anybody have the same problem. I plan to call the installation company after the 4th holiday but just wanted to see if this maybe just a simple thing that can be resolved by myself.
Any suggestions?


texts: Can I install T&G Bamboo floor over a sagging subfloor?

texts: The subfloor dips about an inch on one axis across the middle of the room. Structurally, I think this is due to old and rectified foundation issues. Since the dip is just 1-dimensional, can I install the flooring so the T&G bend with it? Or should I pull the entire subfloor up and level it at the joists?


texts:
This is a question about a specific solution for a problem that's been asked before.
The best solution is u-channels that the blinds' hem bar can travel up and down within.  This solution can be seen online, but not in any DIY way.  A few window treatment companies offer this kind of solution with purchase of their blinds, installed by a local contractor/professional.  Examples:
https://www.rollashade.com/side-and-bottom-channels.html
https://www.draperinc.com/windowshades/productdetail/40/side--u--channel,--h--channel,-or--l--angle
https://vertilux.com/en/products/side-channel-profile
https://www.hunterdouglas.com/lightlock
A few DIY solutions exist that are essentially L-channels (rather than U-channels) like this which I may eventually go with, but I'd much rather find a good u-channel solution.
The only DIY solution with a U-channel that I've found is this one from Sweden.
I just find it hard to believe that this fairly simple solution is only available from a vendor in Sweden (who won't ship internationally, I asked).
Does anyone have any ideas of a simple plastic (or metal, but plastic would be easier/preferable) u-channel that could work like the Sweden solution above, and is available in the USA?  They would need to be about 1/2 inch wide, by about 1 inch deep.
The closest I've found is a u-channel from McMaster-Carr, but it's only 1/2 inch deep which probably would not be sufficient.


texts: Why is the drum of my washing machine loose eve after repairs?

texts:
Why is the drum of my Kenmore 1102002201 from 2011 still loose, although I installed new suspension rods? It is totally loose and with every single spin all over the place just not balanced in the center?
Why is there water inside of the barrel around the drum? Is that what causes the drum to be out of balance?
How do I drain the water?


texts: New, larger slab over old slab, but needs some repair

texts:
I have a 20ft x 30ft (East-West x North-South) concrete slab (in two sections: 20x10 piece on the west, and 20x20 piece on the east) that I'd like to enlarge to about 30ft x 50ft in each dimension. Location is NE Arkansas. I want to build a post-beam wooden carport over it (work area, 2 cars, and a mower) possibly eventually walling it in to be a shop building.

It is on a bit of a slope: N side of slab is flush with ground, S side is about 1 ft above the ground with one corner having a bit of an erosion problem (SE corner), slab corner is exposed about 6 inches above the soil and the hole above the ground goes back about a foot or so under the slab.

I was thinking I could reinforce the exposed corner by digging out some around it and pouring a concrete footer underneath it and hard packing some dirt in as best I can. Then building up some earth from that corner going 20ft east to extend the slab to 50 ft. And then extend the north side 10 ft.

I read that I can drill holes and insert rebar horizontally to tie the slabs together, but I'd also like to pour a fresh slab, say 3 inches thick, above the old one. Should I place some rebar and/or concrete wire attaching it securely to the existing slab via drilled holes with rebar inserted vertically?

Trying to avoid the work/expense of destroying the old slab. It's about 25 years old and doesn't have any cracks, just a really rough surface.

Question: Best advice on pouring a new slab over the existing one and also enlarging it?


texts:
I was thinking about converting a wall in one of the rooms into an improvised chalkboard similar to these. The idea is to cover it with a charcoal-close interior paint.

It has to meet a few key criteria:

Safe for kids. Obviously. They are the primary users of the thing.
Durable [mechanical wear], i.e. be thick and hard after it dried out; at least harder than chalk so that the active contact does not destroy the color/paint.
"chalk friendly" texture so that it's actually usable within the bounds of desired application.

The other criteria are more of nice to have, but way less important.

Durable [water impact], i.e. splash-resistant at least to some degree. Kids and myself are known to be not super-precise in movements, water on the wall is expected once a season. It would be nice if such situation does not ruin the chalkboard instantly.
Easy to find, replenish, and re-paint -- I am not expecting even the most durable paint to last forever.

How do I find and "assess" such a paint [if it at all exists]? So far I found the one on the picture below, but I don't know about it much, nor about any other paints available on the US market.

P.S. I'm very open to criticism targeting my idea itself as well. You may add it to the answer, or post a comment under my question.


texts:
I'll be newly wiring a room on the second floor, in this case putting in outlets. The house is old, balloon frame 2x4s, with a double 2x4 top plate that the rafters rest on.
I have 250 feet of 12/2 mc cable that I was going to use to do the electrical that I got from a friend for free.
I am presently planning on running the cable along the rafter ties, down the rafter, through the top plate, and then back up and along to the next outlet. This means two holes in the top plate per outlet.
I'm just a bit uncertain about drilling through the double top plate. These are true 2x4s, but even so, the mc cable has an exterior diameter of around half an inch. That means 5/8 or 3/4 holes. Do two holes of either size present structural concerns that warrant a reinforcement of some kind? I know for notches in the top plate(s), you need to put steel reinforcement on, however I can't find a clear answer with holes of this size. Is there an optimum place to put the holes? In the middle, equidistant from eachother and from the studs?
Any assistance(or general advice) would be welcomed.


texts: Where can I get an air compressor that can blow air (not just inflate tires)?

texts:
I have been able to find this

and this,

but they don't come with the fitting/handle that allows you to blow air - for instance, if you want to blow dust from your keyboard, etc.

Does anyone know if this kit

will fit any of those pumps?

Or if not, what other small, portable, air compressors are there that can do what I want (also, I DO want to inflate tires - just not ONLY).


texts: How do I replace a 3-way switch that is connected directly to the house wiring?

texts: I am trying to install a dimmer switch on my three way circuit in the kitchen.  When I removed the existing switch, the traveler wires look to be hooked directly into the wiring of the house from the switch.  There are no wires nuts indicating a splice and both wires seem to run directly into the wall. Do I need to clip the wires on the switch and then attach the new dimmer using wire nuts and electrical tape?


texts: What is the proper installation of a dimmer switch?

texts: I have a wall light that has 18 gauge wire.  I want to hard wire this lamp in and put it on a dimmer switch that calls for 14-2 or 12-2 wire. Can this be done? I tried to hook it up but it keeps tripping the breaker.


texts: How can I fix electrical outlets that don't "hold" plugs that are plugged in to them?

texts:
In short, most of the outlets in my house have one working receptacle and one that any cord plugged in will immediately slip out of. Some of my outlets don't have any working receptacles (I hope I'm using the right terminology here).

Is there any way I can repair these, or am I going to have to go through and replace every outlet in my house?


texts: Can I install a garden chiminea in a wooden shed?

texts:
I want to install my iron garden chiminea into my wooden shed.

Is this a really bad idea? If it's not, how should I go about installing a chimney flue?


texts:
I bought my home 6 months ago. When we moved in last summer, we didn't hear this sound.
Now when I step on particular spot on this one bedroom, I hear metal flexing sound. I am guessing the duct is installed too closely to the floor.

I don't use forced air heating.

A few questions:

Is there a way to eliminate or reduce the sound?
Why didn't i hear this in the summer? This is very loud noise so if it was there, I must have heard it but it started happening in October.
I live in Seattle where winter isn't too cold like in Michigan.

thanks


texts: Is it safe and within code (1970 US) to permanently wire a 20' cord to a garage door opener?

texts:
A new garage door and opener will be installed this week. The opener has a short cord. The outlet is on the wall rather than in the ceiling. This is typical of my area for 1970s construction. The installer said he would install and test on an extension cord, but once he left he would unplug it and the rest was my problem.

I would like to install a longer cord to the garage door opener. This is how the current one is wired. Is this safe?

How do I appropriately select the cord wire gauge? Can I just get a heavy gauge extension cord, cut one end, and hook it up?

The new opener is a LiftMaster. It is one of the manufacturers making like 10 different brands of opener.

I frequently post about electrical issues. I have early aluminum wiring in my home which always adds cost and complexity to any electrical project. In this case I do not think this is relevant as the existing wall outlet is wired safely and correctly. I just need to get from that outlet up to the ceiling and over to the opener.

My goal is to have that cord wired in for a few months while I save up to have the entire garage rewired. I want more lights and more outlets in the entire space. I am looking for a longer-term but still temporary solution.


texts: Where do I find 4-4-4-6 direct bury copper cable?

texts: Installing a 100 amp subpanel approximately 160 feet from my main panel to a new garage. 4-4-4-6 copper I understand will be more than sufficient for a 240v/60 amp load at the subpanel and have less than 3% voltage drop. The problem I am having is finding 4-4-4-6 copper cable anywhere on line. I prefer copper to aluminum. I can find 4-4-4-6 SER, but as I understand it SER is not to be direct buried. Any direction on a place to order the copper cable, or advice on other substitutes is appreciated.


texts: I am trying to recreate a folding artist's stool shown on the Mr. Rogers show. It requires a Y shaped bolt, which I can't find anywhere. I have been searching for "Y bolt" with no luck. Does it have a different name?


texts: Where is the C wire in this tangle of wires?

texts:
I have looked and searched, but still iffy where to connect the c wire coming from the thermostat.

I appreciate any help.


texts: installed remote ceiling fan; light works; fan does not

texts:
I decided to install a remote ceiling fan in place of a standard fan myself.  The old fan was controlled by two wall switches (together).  I have a black, red and white wire in ceiling; but only a red and white wire coming from the remote receiver in the fan.  I wasn't sure to which I should wire the receiver but decided to match red to red and cap the black (suggested on youtube).

Fan all installed and looking nice. Turned breaker back on, but both wall switches in the "on"  position, and, for a moment was proud of myself.  pushed the button for the light and there was light!  Pushed the button for the fan and while there was a click sound, to my dismay, no movement of the fan! I'm guessing that the red wire from ceiling is for the light; the black for the fan, so should I have wired both black and red from ceiling to the red from the receiver?  I'm, obviously, not an electrician, but that seemed like it would be too much "heat" together.


texts: Can I get my house assessed with my rebuilt deck not up to code

texts:
We're in the midst of rebuilding our old (cedar) deck and replacing with composite. The decking itself is done, as are the stairs from the top level to the lower level, but we haven't finished the railing, so we haven't had our final inspection from the city yet.

I'd love to get my house reassessed since home prices have risen dramatically in my area since I bought, and I should be able to get my PMI cancelled based on the assessment.

How big of a problem is a deck that isn't up to code yet? We did pull permits for the construction with the city. FWIW, we have about 25K of wiggle room between our realtor's estimate of what we'd assess at and what we need in order to have PMI cancelled.


texts: Can multiple pieces of crown molding be stacked / combined?

texts:
Im trying to achieve a very ornate crown molding, and Ive gotten the look I want by gluing 3 pieces of crown molding together and it looks perfect.   Ive used glue on my sample test run which is only about 1 foot in length.  But this will be for a room thats about 12 feet long so Im sure the glue method wont work in real world :)

My question is, whats the best way to actually attach these pieces together and is this just a stupid idea since the areas of attachment are generally so thin?

From my basic internet research it seems like using baseboards on either side and one crown molding looks much more stable, but I simple cannot achieve the look I want with that technique and having 3 crown moldings stacked is what I want to achieve

What does everyone think the best way to attach these pieces together would be?

Thank you!!


texts: What I can use to waterproof a sink cutout

texts: I'm using solid wood to make a worktop/countertop in my camper van. It's going to have an undermounted sink, so I need to use something to protect the edge of the sink cutout from water. I have no idea what product to use and can't find a good solution anywhere.


texts: How to protect the AC from power spikes - a hardwired surge protector, or UPS?

texts:
As I understand, power surges can damage the AC boards, compressors and fan motors. Looking into hardwired surge protectors I found devices ranging in current, maximum protecting voltage and protection modes, whose prices also range from $20 to $800.

At the same time a 220V computer UPS cost is in the range of $100-400.

What should be considered when choosing a protection method for a 220V AC running off of a 30A breaker?


texts:
I am looking for some advice here. I own a cleaning business, and a client is claiming that my staff cracked their mirror. They've been long-time clients, AND are very quick to complain about things that are showing normal wear and tear (such as a cracked plastic water guard at the bottom of a swinging shower door).
This particular staff is my most trusted, has broken things in the past (it happens in cleaning), and has always been very forthcoming. Well, two weeks after she cleaned this home, the clients send me these photo, saying they had the installer check it out, and he deemed that it must have been excessive pressure on the light fixture that caused this crack.
At first glance, my guess is that this has to be a common problem with mirrors with holes cut out for junction boxes. Also, my staff says if she had noticed something like that she'd have pissed her pants. Her words, but I would have, too! They sent me these photos, and they've also conveniently removed the EXIF data, so I can't see when the photos were taken. You can also see that shower is pretty dirty, so it wasn't taken right after the clean or within a couple days. I can't imagine they would have waited two weeks to bring this up if it truly happened when they claim it did. And this is their master bath, so there would have been no missing it.
I'm not one to shy away from owning mistakes and being accountable, AND I feel like we're being scapegoated here. What are the odds that dusting a light fixture would cause this if it weren't already faulty or cracked?
How often do these types of mountings cause problems like this?
The crack is so clearly coming from where the light fixture is tightened.


texts: Can I use 2"x6" as roof rafters for porch addition over concrete patio?

texts: If I tie into a 6/12 pitch roof with 2x6's. Will I be able to span a concrete slab of 11' 6"? I will be setting 4x4 post every 6' with 2 2x6's with 1/2" osb  sandwiched between them as the form to set on top of post. My plan is to add 2x6 supports on to the top plates of the existing house wall where the 2x6's intersect with the walls.


texts: Causes for fireplace insert not heating house

texts:
I am trying to understand what options I have. It doesn't feel like the fireplace insert in my house is doing much good. My theories are that it is a POS or too small for the space.

The house is about 2600 sq ft over two stories and 10 years old. The main floor is open and has the fireplace on the South wall. The second floor is bedrooms and hallway. Typically I close the doors to the bedrooms during a daytime burn. The stairs are about midroom on the main floor. Each floor has it own furnace zone and thermostat.

The insert is 19.5x28 inches. 40k BTU/hr. 1300 sq ft. Even with the bedroom doors closed, it is clearly smaller than the actual footage.

I only burn oak that has been stacked for a couple years. The chimney is standard brick clearing the top of the roofline.

During a day long burn, the thermostat on the unit will say anywhere between 150 and 300 depending on the positions I move it and if the door is open/closed. Clearly it is putting heat into the room.

Throughout all of last winter, the thermostats on each of the floors did move. Not even a degree. It may be a small unit for the space, but I would have expected at least to make a dent at some point.

Long story short, I am trying to understand what I might do. As it stands, we don't have a heat source if the power goes out (baseboard forced water normally). My first goal is to figure out what the issue might be with this unit - the house, its layout, or the unit itself. I also don't want to go get a new unit if it wouldn't fix anything because of some other variable.


texts: Can I install wiring in the space used by a sealed air duct and PVC water supply lines?

texts:
I have a space between walls that is about 14" deep and 8 foot wide, and goes from the floor to the ceiling. This space is on the second floor. Petty much in the center of the house. The space contains a sealed round air duct and also PVC water supply pipes. They go from the attic to the first floor in this space.

I will have an electrician rewire the house going from aluminum to copper.
Can the wires be run in this space as well?


texts: Are single control faucets supposed to leak when pressed down?

texts:
I have a faucet like the one shown in the below Fig.1.

The faucet does not leak under normal operation. But when I press downward with some force on the top of the handle, water overflows out the tops and sides of the crystal knob. All the faucets in the house behave the same way. But it's an old house. So they all might be bad.

Does this faucet need to be repaired? Or is it working as designed?

Fig.1. Single control faucet: water comes out the top and sides of knob when knob is pressed down


texts: Do I drain my washing machine pump for long term winter storage?

texts:
I'm putting my washing machine into storage for 10+ months in a garage that is not insulated and will experience sub-freezing temperatures for multiple months.
The question is: should I drain the pump of all the water or not?
I think I do because I don't want the water freezing.
However, I wasn't sure if I needed to intentionally leave some water in to keep parts moist /lubricated. (I think that's the case with some dishwasher seals if I recall).


texts: Exhaust fan leaking from elbow joint connected to the ceiling

texts: I have a metal elbow joint that is leaking. It is connected to an exhaust fan in the bathroom and runs to the roof. What can I wrap the elbow with to stop the leak?


texts: I install a Hunter ceiling fan/light per instructions with dual switches. The fan works but the light does not

texts: I install a Hunter ceiling fan/light with dual switches. The fan work but the light does not. Pull chain switch has electrical current going into it but no current going out to the lights when chain is pulled.


texts: Indoor or outdoor paint for wheelchair ramp inside garage?

texts:
I built this wheelchair ramp in my mother's garage for her older friends and when she gets older. It's in NE Ohio and is inside an attached garage. Should only get water from wet or snowy shoes coming in from the car.
I'm trying to decide between a regular latex paint or something like a deck stain-solid color. I don't want to put a clear coat over latex and am unsure if it will wear after being walked on.
(the small vertical pieces are pressure treated and won't be painted until they absorb water, the rest of the wood is not pressure treated)
Suggestions appreciated, thanks!
EDIT: Thank you all. My mother wants it painted, will be a solid color either way, not a stain that shows grain through. I already bought a roll of thread/no slip tape like stuff to put down on the steps and every foot or two on the ramp after painting. The question is what kind of paint to use. Thanks!


texts: At what Lead levels are respirators and hazmat suits required?

texts:
I am under going demolition work in pre-1978 building.  I have paint chip samples sent away to determine ppm of lead.  At what levels are contractors required to wear hazmat suits and respirators?

Is there some summary document that outlines the EPA guidelines?


texts: Why can't I connect a dimmer in line with an outdoor security light?

texts:
I have an outdoor security floodlight (with motion sensor and photocell) that I'd like to be able to dim.
The user manual says to not connect it to a dimmer, but doesn't explain why.
What is the reason for this?
Is it a fire hazard, or will it simply prevent the motion sensor from working if I dim the light too low?


texts:
Can I run my sink & disposal into my basement's sewage pump?

My basement has a bathroom in it that uses an ejector pump. It works great.

Meanwhile, my kitchen sink & disposal are in the opposite corner from my sewer line to the city. The long travel distance causes it to get backed up. (The kitchen's sewer line is practical flat in various places.)

If I can safely run my kitchen line into the ejector pump, it should significantly reduce the tendency of my kitchen to get backed up - assuming the ejector pump itself can handle it.


texts: What electrical requirements does a garbage disposal have?

texts: I just moved into a new house (well, actually it's old - 1920).  We don't have a garbage disposal and was interested in in having one installed so I called a plumber.  He estimated $650-750 saying that the electrical wiring would be the main cost because the electrical needs to be run directly to the circuit breaker.  Is that right?  Perhaps I can do the wiring myself?


texts: Must a generator be connected permanently to the transfer switch?

texts:
I will soon be purchasing a 15K watt, 50A generator and an exterior 200A on/off/on transfer switch. Nothing is an issues except for connecting generator to transfer switch cabinet. Must a male/female connection be used or may the generator connecting wire be permanently connected to the transfer switch? The male plug end of the connector wire would remain and be used on the generator end.

The generator is expected to be a Pulsar 15,000W Dual Fuel Propane/Gasoline Portable Generator. The transfer switch will be Emergency Power Transfer Switch 200 Amp Non Fused Double Throw Surface. The connector wire will be RV Extension Cord Generator Cord 15ft 50 Amp Power Cable 6/3+8/1 Copper Wire.

The house has hot water base board heat operated via an outside wood burning stove. Also have a propane fired furnace in the basement. Usually the basement furnace is not used. Well pump, too.

The propane use will cut the available watts to about 10K. That's alright, as my wife and I added up all the possible items that would be used and we come out to bout 75% of available watts. That's if everything runs at once. Not likely. Presently we use a 5KW generator and, while it provides us with what we need, it's all very basic and we do a severe limit on what's used.

Not to mention there's a bit of effort involved in making sure the main is off and so on. Fine if I'm home. But I want this to be easy and safe for anybody else to use. So, yes, the whole house will be able to be operated, as it now selectively is.

So, may that female end of the power cord be directly connected to the transfer switch as will be the input line from the meter? If it's necessary to install a male shielded plug, I will, but...it does introduce another connection that I see is not necessary.


texts: What could cause unexpected high water usage?

texts:
An apartment water meter has been running high for the last three months for no apparent reason. It's now about 3,000 gallons higher than normal. The meter registers slow continuous usage - even though no fixtures or appliances are active. There are no signs of water leaking into the walls or floors.

Two professional plumbers have checked for problems with no success.  We double checked toilets - the usual suspects - but one plumber determined that shutting off the HW feed to the HW Heater stops the meter.  So I believe it's in the HW side of the apartment.

The only HW fixtures are only a couple of sinks, a shower, a dishwasher, and a clothes washer. All look fine.

The obvious candidate would be the HW Heater excess Temperature and Pressure safety valve - the "T&P" valve.  But the outflow tube from that valve is bone dry.

One plumber suspects the meter.  Could a water meter malfunction behave differently depending on whether the valve to the HW Heater is open or closed?

I'm starting to wonder if some fool connected the ice maker to the HW line. What could it be?  Any suggestions to isolate the culprit?


texts: What type of filler to replace a gasket but not permanently?

texts:
I have a connection that has a custom-shaped hard plastic gasket with strong adhesive to hold the two sides together. The gasket is meant to fill the gap between the two pieces and the adhesive bonds them together.

I have to do repair on this connection which requires that the gasket be completely removed from both ends which damages it in the process and it cannot be reused.

Is there some form of soft silicone or other kind of adhesive that I can use to fill this void that is strong enough to bind the two ends but not permanently in case I need to remove it again? I can't use a normal glue because it flows too easily and I don't want to use epoxy because I'm afraid that I won't be able to separate the parts again.


texts: Ceiling sheetrock for basement apartment

texts:
My house consists of two units, the main and basement apartment to which the main is not connected indoors.

I was planning to put fiberglass insulation between the joists and use ultra light 1/2" sheetrock but then a friend told me to use 5/8 for fire resistance reasons. Assuming this is not subject to code inspection, would it be acceptable to go with 1/2"? I've seen sagging between joists as a reason but I'm not seriously concerned about that. In addition to being lighter and easier to work with, I prefer 1/2 to allow that 1/8" extra ceiling space, which is scarce.


texts: How do I diagnose a thermostat and HVAC that intermittently doesn't respond?

texts:
My gas heater for the whole house does not follow the thermostat settings on some mornings. I have set it to 70 degrees at 6 am but now it is still 60 at 8 am. This happens weekly once or so and seems to be in the mornings only. Other timer settings seem to work fine.

I have already changed the thermostat to eliminate that possibility. I am just looking for some possible pointers before calling someone to take a look at this.

Is it possible that the pilot light/ignition does not trigger sometimes? If so, is that an easy fix?


texts: How to project basement level of humidity before building?

texts:
Assume I am considering buying a lot and building a house in it.  Is it possible and how would I project what the humidity level will be in its basement?  Say the basement is built using concrete blocks.  Some factors that come to mind are the precipitation table, gradient of the lot, position relative to nearby streams etc.

But are there well established heuristics for gauging the level of moisture penetration I can expect?


texts: Can quick-drying mud be used on the same drywall joints where slow-drying mud was used?

texts:
I think I phrased the summary/title poorly but essentially, I'd like to know if all drywall mud coats need to use the same type of joint compound for all coats or if I can transition to quick drying mud in later coats.

Here's why I'm asking -- I'd like to learn the basics without being rushed.  Assuming that goes well, I'd like to switch to quick-drying mud so I can complete my current drywall project faster.


texts: Would wrapping a wood fence post in plastic help protect it?

texts:
I'm geting ready to install a couple new wooden privacy fence gates on the sides of our house.  One of my co-workers suggested to wrap the 4"x4" with plastic stretch wrap around the 2' part that will set in the concrete.  He had heard that the plastic wrap will keep the lime in the concrete from eating into the wood over time.

Has anyone heard of this or what do you think?


texts: Security Cameras Don't Display Video Despite Proper Hookup?

texts:
My parents purchased a camera system more than a decade ago, and they called someone over to (do something with them? They don't remember...)

Anyway, the result was that almost all of the cameras went down.

They all have power, but there is no video stream from them. They light up with their infrared LED's at night, but after checking the DVR's settings, they have no video feed coming to the DVR (This was also checked by directly wiring the camera to a TV with no DVR in between them).

Additionally, I pulled one of the cameras down and brought it to my TV and gave it power (DC 12V from my power supply), and wired it directly to the TV (No DVR in between to rule out DVR issues).

It had no video feed.

Could all of the cameras have died over time (Which seems wildly implausible to me, they are exterior cameras), or am I missing something? My mom said that the person who was called over was adjusting the cameras physically and might have turned them off somehow, but upon inspection of the cameras, there is no such switch.

Here is the make/model of the camera:

Are the cameras viable, or should I get a new set of cameras?


texts: All the switched outlets in my living room stopped working.  The non switched outlets work fine.  There is only one breaker for the living room.   Where do I begin to figure out what the problem is and how to resolve it?


texts: Prevent dead animals in basement window wells

texts:
How can I prevent animals from dying in my basement window wells?    The wells are about two feet deep and have a clear plastic covers over them.   The covers don't fit tightly and critters seem to get in.    I just removed:

15 garter snake carcasses
1 live garter snake
2 Snake skins
4 dead rodents
1 live frog
2 dead frogs
3 dead lizards or salamanders

Many of them had clearly been there for years -- many of the remains were skeletal or desiccated.

Here is a picture of one of the window wells (hammer for scale):

I'd like to prevent this problem in the future.    I'm thinking that I could:

Seal the window wells better (how?)
Provide a stick or ladder that would allow critters to exit without getting stuck and dying
Use repellant

Which of those options should I pursue, or is there something better?


texts: Flexible PVC to flexible metal conduit connector

texts:
I had planned to install a new run using flexible PVC conduit, but discovered a section of metal conduit already in place within a wall I can reuse. Is there a way to directly connection PVC and metal flexible conduit without needing a junction box?
I'm not adverse to using a junction box, just thought a direct connector would save time & effort.
Thanks.
i.e. connecting these two conduits...


texts: Corroded Sink Drain Cover Removal Suggestions

texts:
I've pretty much taken my entire old faucet apart except the last piece, the Sink Drain Cover.

I've put WD-40 on it, didn't help much. I've read about different products that help with corroded metal, but i'm assuming you have to actually apply them where the thread meets.
Any Suggestions?


texts: Do stairs need to be the same height after landing?

texts: I have set of stairs that leads from the main floor to the basement.  A little over half way down there is a landing (typical L-shape).  I'm looking to put in an insulated subfloor in my basement, which could raise the floor height quite a bit.  If I did so, I might have to change the bottom set of stairs.  I was thinking of cutting new stringers, which would allow my steps to all be of uniform height, but that would make the risers on the bottom set of stairs differ from the upper set. I have 6 steps, and if I were to put in a 3 1/4" sub-floor [1"XPS + 2x4 (1.5") sleepers + 3/4" plywood/OSB], that'd change the riser height by more than 3/8".  Is this a problem?


texts: Why does my bathroom light go off and on after switch gets turned on

texts:
I am curious to know if there is an electrical short in our home. I experience turning on light switches and then light goes off at times. It sounds
Like my tv sparks at times.


texts: enter image description hereinstalling fan and light kit  Issue: have 2 white wires and 2 black wires in ceiling box .Both black wires always have power Neither white wire has power whether the wall switch is on or off . The wall switch has white wires on both terminals and looks like black wires pigtailed behind, cannot get light to work from switch  only will work with pull chain, fan works fine.


texts:
The wall sits on the wood which sits on a rough 2" concrete block.

How should I cover this edge so that I have a single clean surface from the floor to the wall?


texts: I am going nuts trying to find my doorbell transformer.  Someone suggested it may be this.  But doesn't look like one to me. Is it?  If not any suggestions where it may be?


texts: How can I run power from an end-of-run light switch to a second switch?

texts: I currently have a ceiling light that has the power at the light. It is switched with a single pole and both white and black wires are connected to the switch. The white is hot. I take it there is no neutral in this case. I want to gang up a second switch to power a new light in a nearby closet. How do I jump power to the second switch?


texts: How can I paint inside corners of textured walls at the ceiling or baseboard?

texts: In this question, techniques are described to paint the edge of a textured wall along a textured ceiling. How can I paint inside corners though? Mashing the brush into the corner seems to do OK, but it doesn't give a great result. I also wonder what that does to the brush, pushing the bristles out like that.


texts: Why does my kitchen faucet's hot water line rattle and lose pressure?

texts: When I turn on the kitchen hot water, it heats up, then rattles, and the pressure cuts back by at least 50%.  This does not happen with the dishwasher or the cold water.  Any suggestions?


texts: Protecting CSST Through Studs - Are there no off-the-shelf solutions?

texts:
I am having a hard time meeting the protection requirements outlined in the manufacturer's specifications. I'm installing HomeFlex CSST in California - California's plumbing code defers to the manufacturer for most of the installation requirements for CSST.

HomeFlex requires that horizontal runs through studs have 5" of protection on either side of each stud through which it passes (when it is within 2" of the edge, inevitable when dealing with 2x4s). However, HomeFlex does not provide a branded product to accomplish this (which is generally preferred, as mixing/matching brands in the same CSST install is usually a show-stopper for inspections), and I am unable to find anything of sufficient dimensions @ 16 gauge hardened steel that meet the requirements for protecting CSST.

At this point, the only 2 options I can see to meet the requirements established by HomeFlex, are to either fabricate my own striker plates or to find the odd-sized 1-1/4" steel pipe that is noted as an acceptable alternative, and cut it to 11-1/2" lengths (5" + 1-1/2" + 5"). Are these really my only options (other than ripping it out and using black pipe)? What are others doing to address this requirement?

Here's the relevant part of the documentation (full doc is here):

Update: I have found some products on the horizon from other CSST manufacturers (namely Gastite), however these, made by any brand, do not appear to be yet available for sale from anywhere:


texts:
After moving from apartments to a new house, my wife and I found only two garbage cans: a blue one and a green one.

We use the blue one for recyclable things like clean bottles, cartons, and so on.

The green one is filled with non-recyclable garbage.

Are we using the two cans the right way?
Do I use a gray can (if I have one) for compostable food waste, grass, etc?
Who is responsible for providing us with a can for compost?

P.S. Sorry, it's actually three questions. If needed, I can post them separately.


texts: What sealant should I use for the base of a sink faucet?

texts: I guess the title says it all. =) I'm planning to replace my kitchen sink faucet. What type of sealant should I use for the base of the new sink faucet?


texts: Can I hook these wires up to find the connection to a dead outlet?

texts:
I have an outlet in a small bar area that does not have any power coming in to the wires. It's been like this for as long as we've been here (4 years, house is 20 years old). I checked every breaker, every light switch, and every GFCI and it didn't appear to be attached to any of them. I found an empty receptacle in a cabinet in our mudroom with the 2 white wires, 2 black wires, and 1 ground wire. One of the black wires has 120v with one of the white wires while the other pair has zero.

I'm assuming the pair with 0v is going to my "dead" outlet. I have no idea which circuit it's on so I'm going to cut power to the entire house and put the black wires in a wire nut together and do the same thing for the white wires. Any issues with this? Do I need to do anything with the loose ground? Thanks for any comments/suggestions.


texts: Can I reduce dryer vent through basement wall?

texts:
Can I reduce my 4" solid dryer vent pipe to a 3" at the outlet, my foundation has only 3 1/2 " opening between floor and concrete to cut through.

This picture shows where the vent to outside will go. To the right is an existing bath fan vent. I would like to place the dryer vent on the same wall.


texts:
Let me start with the electrical schematics for my house (built-in 1985) are quite bizarre; the house was constructed very quickly so the contractor could pull money for a bigger project. We've discovered many shortcuts over the last 35+ years. What you would think would align in the breaker box,   doesn't. It's been fun figuring out the connections over the years.
Here are my concerns:
I just installed two matching ceiling fixtures in the kitchen. Both operate from one double switch on the entry side of the kitchen and the main one near the sink/prep area has a secondary switch base by the exterior door. I did not work on the switches and after making connecting the new fixtures, work fine.

First. The red,  or "hot" wire, was connected with the lesser used light and switch. There was no red wire with the main one. Should this concern me? I have switched out this fixture several times and never noticed that.   I didn't think about it until I went to the other fixture and thought they may have switched the lines for some reason when the house was built.

Second. I had closed off the lesser-used fixture for some time and wanted to make sure capping off the black bundle and connecting the red to black on the fixture is still the way to go.  There's no fan or other aspect (should have been simple black/white and no red).

Third.  The new fixtures' wires connect to the main wiring with the cap nuts fine, but cannot feed up into the box. I haven't seen this before. (the fixtures have two lights each, and the wires just meet to connect together and then just to the main wires)  How is this going to impact going forward; do I need to worry about a potential fire hazard or should I go through and see if I can connect better, or splice in additional wire?


texts: What are these two pipes coming out of the house?

texts:
I am trying to figure out the purpose of a couple of pipes that are currently coming out of the house.

First, a couple of notes:

One-story house.
HVAC system is in the attic.
It is winter here. Running the heat. Using the water heater (which is in the garage). Not running the A/C.

The first pipe, shown here, I am pretty sure is the emergency drain line for the HVAC system. It is coming out from under an eave near the top of the house. Can someone verify that I am correct? It is not currently dripping.

The second pipe is the one that I am not very sure about. It is actually dripping slowly, but steadily. I would say one drip every 3 seconds or so. It has been raining here, but I can't imagine this pipe having to do with draining rain water. Like I said, we do run the gas heater daily. And the hot water is, of course, used daily as well. The water heater is on the other side of the house in the garage. Any thoughts as to where the water from this pipe is coming from?


texts: Why do led/incandescent combo dimmers specify lower led wattage?

texts: When looking at combo dimmers most of them are rated for 600 when using incandescent, but only 150 when using leds. Surely the switch should be able to shed the same amount of heat regardless of what bulb is used -- why the difference?


texts: How should I avoid corrosion at this water heater connection?

texts: I installed a new water heater 2-3 years ago. I put 3/4 pipe to PEX adapters on it and then used pex to connect to my house. On the hot water outlet, corrosion and rust is forming. I bought some plastic lined nipples after I read about dialectric separation, but in thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my Whirlpool water heater already has the plastic lined nipples. There is a warning sticker about not applying heat because its conneted to a plastic dip tube. Could the brass fitting on the galvanized pipe be causing the rust? How can I fix this? Is there such a thing as a pex adapter that is coated with plastic so its insulated? Should I just take it apart, clean it, and put teflon tape on the threads? I will probably still add joint compound (Rector Seal).


texts: What type of Piping for Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventor for Irrigation System

texts:
Looking into installing a above ground reduced pressure backflow preventor for my irrigation system.  Looking at many examples and videos online, I saw different types of piping from PVC, Copper and Galvanized Steel used for the above ground installation like the picture below. My main concern is protecting the potable water and having a long term system.

My question is, which type of piping is appropriate for having this backflow preventer outdoor and under the sun?

Copper - I heard can deteriorate over time.
Galvanized steel - can build up rust inside the inner walls over time
PVC - Not good for outdoor and sunlight


texts: Should you seal grout when using RedGard Backing?

texts: I did a shower in Hardieboard sealed with two layers of Redgard. Should I still seal the grout lines even though we used Redgard underneath?


texts: Fluorescent ceiling fan light single flash when switch turned on

texts:
I have a Hampton Bay CVT-54 ceiling fan and I'm seeing a very strange issue with the fluorescent ring light. When I flip light switch the light will flash momentarily then go dark. Flipping the light switch after that does not cause a flash, nor does pressing the light button on the fan's remote control. The behavior is the same regardless if the switch is flipped while the remote has the light "on" or off.

The strange part is that I can make the light flash again if I lightly touch the fan housing or even the light bulb. When I touch the fan housing I get a slight static shock, though that might be because of how dry it is in my house this winter. This makes me think that there is a grounding problem going on but I can't find any issues with how the fan is wired up, it appears to be fine according to the manual.


texts: What options for replacing a leaking soil pipe?

texts: There are tree roots growing in the soil pipe leading from my home to the street.  (The pipe is about 75 feet long.)  When it is time to repair or replace the soil pipe, what are the options and their pros and cons?


texts: Making a square - Joining two pieces of wood cut at 45 degrees with a circular saw

texts:
I am trying to create a 90 degree angle from two pieces of wood so that I can eventually create a squared enclosure. I have cut two pieces of wood at 45 degrees with a circular saw's angle adjustment.

However, when I try to join the pieces of wood, they only meet at their tips and not throughout the slope of the cut (see photo below). Because of this, I can't figure out how to nicely join them together while ensuring that they will have a 90 degree angle when they are merged.

What is the recommended way join wood in this way to create flush 90 degree angles for a squared enclosure? Is it possible to do this with a circular saw?


texts: Turn off water supply but leaving heat burner on?

texts: If a house has a water heater for hot water, and a burner for heat (natural gas, baseboard heating). When one goes on vacation in winter and turn off water supply to avoid frozen pipes, should they leave the burner and heater ON? Won't that damage both because there's no water to the burner and heater anymore?


texts: How can I fix a screw that has been stripped

texts:
Is it possible to fix a screw that has been stripped? It is not an uncommon problem to run into when you are into the DIY projects. I personally have come across this quite frequently. I would like a solution that would be permanent, and one that doesn't involve buying new screws. How do I do this?

I'm not asking how to remove them, as asked How to remove screws with stripped heads?. I want to know how to fix it.


texts: What tool is used for this tight plumbing situation?

texts: Our tub drain is severely plugged. Cannot get a snake down into it.  Our crawlspace is only about 18" tall (WHY?!?), and due to both the confined space and the angle we cannot leverage the wrench in position to loosen the  clean-out plug.  In addition, the clean-out plug is VERY tight.  What is the ideal tool for flexibility, strength and leverage in this confined situation?


texts: how to run conduit past/over wide stone foundation

texts:
I'm planning to run 1" conduit to power an outdoor sauna. In digging the trench, I discovered that my old stone foundation runs outwards from the house. That is, while the inside cellar wall is straight up and down, on the outside it is built down and away from the house. At the conduit depth (~18") it's about 12" away from the house.

How should I run the conduit up and through the wall? Can i run conduit right at ground level for the last few inches and go straight through the wall (actually a panel of CDX that replaced an old cellar window)?

I was originally planning on doing this the traditional way - conduit up with a 90 º sweep to a LB through the wall. This won't work unless i put in an otherwise extraneous 90 º sweep right at the end... and I'm not sure if there's room for that given the rather small size of that CDX panel.  Here's a sketch:


texts: Ceiling light not working, old wiring please advice thanks

texts: Brown & black as in pic, i have connected with connector & left it, red connected with light Live ( brown) & blue with blue ( N), in switch there are Red & Black wire & Black showing live ( tester )... some how light is not coming. Please advice thanks


texts: Warp resistance of plywood vs solid SPF lumber

texts:
I need to fabricate a small wooden masking platform that will serve to reduce the gaps between radiator pipe holes in the floor and the floor itself. Basically, the gaps are more than what pleases the eye and, now that I know exactly where the pipes are going, I can stencil out a hole projection on a piece of wood that is about 1" x 10" x 10" so that, when it goes on the floor, it closes some of the gap between the pipes and the holes. Basically, I am doing the same thing that an escutcheon would do but I can't use escutcheons because the pipes are too close to one another.

Since this wooden plate will be nailed to the floor and there will be presence of heat nearby, what is the best choice of wood-like material to cut this piece? The clear choices are SPF lumber (cut a piece out of a 1x12) and smooth plywood. I would prefer to not use OSB as it has a rough surface. The most critical aspect is the material's warping resistance, obviously I would like something that will not warp under the presence of heat over time.


texts: How can I get this elbow off my shower drain, or do I need to replace the entire assembly?

texts:
I've had a shower that drains extremely slowly. I added an air admittance vent. After doing so, apparently I was too rough on the connections b/c the shower started leaking like crazy the next day. Luckily the floor in the bathroom was already ripped out b/c of the toilet leaking 2 weeks previous! Behind the shower,the water was evident at the top of the elbow. It did not leak from the work I did the previous day. Apparently it's been leaking just slightly for a while (as you can see all the rust on the concrete below) and I aggravated it just enough to open the flood gates.

Now I've gotten new ABS pieces to replace the old ABS and that old iron(?) elbow. However, I can't get the elbow off AT ALL. I've been using an extremely large set of channel-locks and WD-40 Rust-Release Penetrant but no-go. Additionally, the brass(?) drain assembly it's all connected to shifts as I attempt to twist the elbow off.

It also doesn't even look like I've got enough clearance to get an ABS elbow in there in the first place. Is there going to be a way to do this without taking the entire tub out?

EDIT: With the old work still on:


texts: Creating a Pipe for Ethernet and Video Cables

texts:
I've got my computer desk about 10' from a closet where I want to put my computer along with network drives, etc. I'd like to run 3 HDMI cables, an audio and 2 ethernet cables to the large closet.

My thinking is to run a "pipe" that is big enough that I can run a fish through it to pull cables through as I need them. I don't plan on running anything but low voltage computer stuff (no 110).

any suggestions for what "pipe" to use, how to make it not look horrible by my computer desk?


texts: Should I install the exhaust hood outlet through the chimney or house wall?

texts:
What are the advantages and disadvantages of implementing an outlet of a kitchen exhaust hood through a chimney or directly through the outer wall of the house? There are unused chimneys in the house but there is not a hole to one of them at the right place in the kitchen.

I think there could be differences in these parameters:

heat leakage (the house is insulated by polystyrene foam boards from the outside)
staining of the house wall
complexity and price of the maintenance
difficulty and price of the construction

If the chimney will be unused is it worth to enclose the open top end because of lower heat leakage and easier maintenance?


texts: How do I turn off the power to my thermostat?

texts:
I'd like to replace my thermostat with a new one. My current thermostat is one that doesn't have a C-wire and is powered by batteries.

Now, my question is... is there a switch for the power that I need turn off too? I could not find a switch for the thermostat in the breaker box.

I'm assuming just removing the batteries is fine for replacing my thermostat?


texts:
We have 10 y.o. "Low-E" windows.  Last autumn we noticed one opening panel "hazing" up inside:

What is it?  Does that indicate loss of hermitization?  How to fix it?  Can it be done DIY-style?


texts: Could a layman build a house from plans?

texts:
i am looking at pre-made architectural house plans on the Internet ranging from 300 to 800 square feet, some multi-level.  I have no housebuilding experience. I don't imagine many of the millennials for which these are designed do..  I'm not even an engineer.

The question is: could a layman millennial like myself build something like this? Or would the cost of hiring builders and buying material rival that of buying a house that already exists?

If the answer is 'yes - you can do it!' maybe you'll humour me with a response to the below:

What would a shortlist of requirements for a simple own house build look like? Any good reading suggestions?

If I were to start looking for land on which to build a house from plans.  These are the two simple scenarios I imagine:

Off the grid. No where near a water main. This is a no go for me.
Water main under the ground that I would have to dig down to and pipe to the surface. Add pressure regulator, water meter etc. Assuming this is all I need. Or do people sell land designed for projects like this with some other 'pre-build' kind of plumbing set up I don't know about?

I'm basically thinking that the hardest part of building a house is the ol' plumbing and electricity.

What is the order of things then?

Dig a hole for the basement and foundation. Lay down some steel reinforced foundation footing and walls, a concrete slab. Dig another hole at the water main, pipe over my liquids and I'm good to go?


texts: How do I remove a stuck tap bonnet to change the cartridge?

texts:
I've searched and read many tips and quite a few questions on here but I'm still totally stumped!
I have a bathroom single lever mixer tap, and I'm 90% sure the cartridge needs replacing so thought I'd give it a go as it seemed pretty straight forward. I removed the handle of the tap, no problem, but the decorative bonnet (I've seen it referred to as a bonnet and a sheath) is not budging!!!
I have tried white vinegar to remove limescale, I've tried oust to remove limescale, I've tried WD40 to lubricate, I've tried a strap wrench but can't get a good grip because of the angle of the bonnet, I've tried heating it up with a hairdryer, I've tried pouring some boiling water over and using rubber gloves to twist it. Nothing is working. I've left oust most of the day and separately left WD40 overnight and neither seems to have helped...
A decent amount of gunk must have been dissolved as before the liquid would just sit at the top and it now oozes through suggesting it's working it's way through the thread?
Please any tips, advice, anything would be greatly appreciated! I'm not sure I've tried the "heating" methods enough to get it hot enough but I don't know how hot it needs to be?
Calling a plumber is an absolute absolute last resort and any way I don't have to would be preferable!
Many thanks!
Pictures of tap for reference


texts: Bizarre electrical set-up for bathroom light fixture

texts:
I'm updating a bathroom in our old house (circa 1935) that still has some fabric-sheathed 2-wire (hot/neutral, no ground), but also has some new wiring mixed in here and there.

Our bathroom wall fixture had this set up: romex from below, fabric-sheathed from above. The most noteworthy issue is that only one wire from the romex is being used: the hot wire. The ground and the neutral are clipped off. IF you look closely at the yellow nut, the hot wire is attached to the grounding wire on the fixture.

So it would seem then that the fabric-sheathed wire is the only one actually providing power to the fixture, and the romex is serving only as a ground wire that was added later, correct? But why would the hot wire from the Romex be used and not the ground wire if that's the case?

The fixture has worked fine for the past several months that we've owned the home, and presumably for years prior (it looks pretty old). I don't understand this set up at all, but would it be a terrible mistake to replicate this set up with a new fixture?


texts: Mixing Bora-care - how do I know how much to use?

texts:
I'm planning to use Bora-care as a preventive measure on some exterior wood.  But I don't understand how to calculate the amount of water and concentrate to use.  Here is the label with instructions:
https://nisuscorp.com/download/bora-care?wpdmdl=1389&refresh=5f9496ee86a861603573486.
For this first project, I have 500 cu. inches of wood (about 5x100x1) and I'd like to use a 5:1 ratio.  So how much concentrate should I mix with how much water for that volume of wood?
I know I can mix 5oz of water with 1oz of concentrate or 6oz total, but is that enough to treat 500 cu. inches of wood?  What if I want to use the same 5:1 ratio for 1000 cu. in. of wood? or 10,000?


texts: How do I replace a 3-way lamp socket so that it doesn't die after 6 months?

texts:
I've replaced the 3-way socket in a table lamp about 4 times in the past 6 years.  Each time it works for 6 months or so, but eventually the secondary contact that touches the "ring" on the base of the 3-way bulb (the low-intensity filament) starts arcing and the lamp flickers.  This progresses to the point where the lamp flickers most of the time, at which point I replace the socket.  Up until this last time the only sockets I could find locally were Leviton brand.  Last weekend I found a Westinghouse brand socket at the local DIY box store.

Why does this happen? Anybody else have this problem?  Will the Westinghouse 3-way socket have the same problem, and does anybody make a socket that will last longer?

EDIT: Adding some answers to good questions raised in posts below:

Does the arcing problem happen with new bulbs?

Once it starts arcing it happens with any bulb.  The contact for the low-wattage filament (the off-center contact) looks pitted and corroded.

Is the lampshade (if any) attached to the bulb, and could be stressing the socket?

The lampshade is attached to a harp, there's no mechanical stress on the bulb.

When it starts arcing, are the bulbs loose? If so, can they be tightened? Or are they screwed down all the way, but they wiggle laterally?

When a socket first starts flickering, tightening the bulb more tightly will quiet it for awhile, but that stops working eventually.


texts: How to caulk uneven gap in corner of kitchen backsplash?

texts: We have tiled the backsplash in our kitchen. The grouting is done and we are caulking. We are having problems caulking the corners where the two walls meet. (The vertical line) The tiles are uneven and we are getting a wobbly caulk line. Any ideas on how to make this look like a straight line? Thanks in advance


texts: What would be the wiring diagram to add a receptacle switch combo to the outdoor garage lights circuit?

texts:
I need one more circuit in my garage (to run the dust collector and the table saw at the same time).
I already have a circuit with ground and GFCI outlet.
I also seem to have another circuit that feeds the porch light+ PIR and then it goes into the garage to come out of the garage on the front wall to feed the garage lights as in the first picture (2 wire circuit +ground) in the figure

Below is what I think the wiring diagram would be for the above.
The interrupted brown line is the garage wall on which the lights are installed

I would like to add a receptacle combo switch so that when I work in the middle of the day to be able to switch off the garage lights
like so:

I am not sure if this is correct and if you have seen a more professional wiring diagram I would appreciate if you can point me to it.
Also I am not sure if I need any sort of box other than this:

The wall where the cable enters the wall to feed the first outdoor light looks like this(the wires are in fact vertical with the holes at the bottom of the picture, it was rotated so you can read the cable codes)

Here is a picture inside of the box behind the firs light
I will probably have to remove the PIR that was there (dead and disconnected now). Not sure if I can replace it. Removing it might add more room for the wasps that built a nest there -I just removed that and I had to patch the hot wire, as you can see the insulation was cracked... so I put some tape there


texts: Old house w/ 2 black wires replacing light switch with motion sensor switch single pole 4 wires

texts:
House is 80 years old. 2 black wires in switch box and no ground. Trying to replace single pole light switch with motion sensor light switch that works with incandescent,LED, and florecent bulbs.  Currently using LED bulbs.

Problem: The GE motion sensor switch has 4 wires. Red (load), black (hot), white (neutral)' and green ground. The instructions give no information on how to connect the four wires on the sensor to the 2 in the light switch box.


texts: Cosmetic fix for a cracked wooden window sill

texts:
I live in an ancient apartment and last night I leaned on the window sill only to cause small cracks in the wood and paint to appear, as you can see in the photo.

What would you recommend for cosmetically repairing the cracks? I don't care to replace the sill completely right now.


texts: How to secure toilet fill valve hose to canister

texts:
I have a Kohler Wellworth (low flow model) that uses a canister-style flushing mechanism. The tube that comes from the fill valve is to be seated/secured in an opening at the top of the canister, held in place by what I assume should be a snug fit. However, the hose continually pops out of place after flushing.
Is it safe & effective to glue a hose like this in place? I can't see a place that a typical clip could be used to hold it in position.


texts:
I’ve got a not quite 2 yr old deck installed by our builder. We have a problem with the stringers pulling away from the treads and risers. We first started noticing it last year, so I added some 3.5” deck screws to each board to try to secure them, but they’re pulling out as well. This is happening to almost all the treads and risers on both sides.

Just wondering at this point what the best course is? Is this repairable, or do I need to look at replacing the stairs?


texts:
I have this wood polisher a Bosch PSS240A. Issue is the the polishing sheet cannot stick at the front, even after locking it.

Each time I'm starting to polish wood, the sheet is ok as you can see

But after a few seconds of polishing , the sheet is out as the clipping cannot hold the sheet

How come? Is there anything I can do to fix it quickly without needing to go to a repairshop?

Thanks