texts:
I have a 10' x 10' chain link kennel (standard round tube).

I'm looking at roofing options, and all of the kennel covers that I've found so far are tarps. I have concerns over the durability and snow load of tarps in winter (I live in Maine).

Are there any materials that would be more durable and affordable?


texts: How do I pour concrete in an existing garage?

texts:
My garage had extremely poor flooring. I've removed it and dug down 11". I plan to use a plate compactor on the dirt, add 4" of crushed rock, compact that, add 2" of sand, wet that, wait for it to dry out, cover it with plastic sheeting, and then I'm ready for the concrete layer.

Thing is, I don't know how to make a flat, high quality concrete pour inside. If I'm outside I can add forms around the slab and use a flat 2x4 or 2x6 to even the surface.

My garage is 25' x 20' and has a small stairway I'm not removing as a bonus obstacle.

How do I pour inside for best results and a flat surface?


texts: How far from the sink can we install the dishwasher without major remodel?

texts:
We are buying an old house built in 1935. We do not want to do a major kitchen remodel but we would like to replace the old portable dishwasher (that you roll over to the sink and hookup) with a regular dishwasher. There is no spot next to the sink and we would be putting the dishwasher on the other side of the kitchen.

Is this possible? Can we somehow run the plumbing under the kitchen in the basement to reach the sink for disposal? If I had to guess it would be about 10-15 feet of hose to reach the dishwasher.


texts: My furnace "fails to start" 3 times, then it flashes 7 beeps and quits trying.  I can hear it start then the flame "just stops" 3x in a row.  What gives?


texts: Can outdoor receptacle go right over conduit leading to it?

texts: Ideally, I would like to place an outdoor power outlet box right over this 1/2" PVC conduit leading to it so there is A) no conduit visible around the box and B) there isn't an extra 90° bend to make driving wire harder. Is there a box that I can have a hole in the middle of that this pipe (of course trimmed accordingly) will fit over to accommodate the aforementioned minimalist design?


texts: What do I need to replace after water damage during construction of a new home?

texts: While setting our new T style modular ranch style home we had a large amount of rain come before they had the sections set and now have water laying in some sections of drywall in almost every room. I think the builder is going to dry as much as possible but I'm concerned about future problems with the drywall. I guess my question is how much water on drywall is acceptable before needing replaced. Most of the wet areas are the internal walls on every room ceiling corners. I can press my fingernail in the wet spots and it is pretty mushy. A few of the light switch boxes are wet underneath too from water following the wires. Some areas I know has insulation that is definitely getting replaced but the visible slightly wet areas I'm not sure what I should try to make them do. The builder says they want us 100% satisfied so trying to decide whether to have them replace all drywall that is wet before we go any further.


texts: I installed dimmer but the wall switch does not have a ground wire; is it safe?

texts:
I installed this dimmer in my bedroom  https://i.stack.imgur.com/YR6mq.jpg
But when I removed the old switch I only found 2 black copper wires connected to the switch. I proceeded to connect this to the black wires in my dimmer switch and it is working. However, I am concerned about the safety of it. Is connecting only the black wires safe? I did cut out the green wire and made sure they connecting parts are covered with electric tape.

Here is a picture of how it looks now:

Update:

I replaced the dimmer with one that have the screwed to hold the wires. It also have a grounding green screw as in the image below.

I still can't tell if I need to attach anything to the green screw. In my apt, look like it's the same namely there is not grounding wires for those switches so I'm assuming the metal box is grounded.


texts: Ice Dispenser auger won't stop dumping ice into chute

texts:
I have a 9 yr old Kenmore side by side fridge (Model #25355699407).  The external ice/water dispenser panel leaked for years, eventually bubbling out the exterior paint, and rusting the door.  I removed the ice/water dispenser panel to refinish the door, which involved disconnecting the ribbon cable which connects the Dispenser power board to the Dispenser Control board.  Now, when I re-connect those with the ribbon cable and plug in the fridge, the ice dispenser auger immediately starts dumping ice into the external chute and won't stop.

I've tried/tested:

Replacing the ribbon cable - same result
Testing/replacing the micro-switches - same result

My next steps are to replace the Dispenser Power Board or Dispenser Control Board, but as these two parts run around $150 EACH, I'd like to know if anyone has any advice, specifically regarding:

How to figure out which of the two boards may have failed
If I start with one board, and choose the wrong one, am I at risk of damaging the other?
Is there any other part, inside the ice maker itself, which may have failed? I'm a little unclear about how the dispenser controls "talk" to the auger.

At this point, it is actually just about as expensive to buy a whole new door as to replace both circuit boards, which leaves me pretty frustrated.

Additional curious note:
The last time I put everything back together and connected the ribbon cable, with the refrigerator still unplugged (and had been for at least 15 minutes), I saw a flash behind the Dispenser Power Board.


texts: How can I repair damage to the corner of a 4x4 post?

texts:
I'm updating my outdoor shower, and planning to reuse the existing (20 year old pressure treated) 4x4 posts. They're still solidly seated in the ground and surrounded by decking so I'd like to avoid replacing them.
In a couple of spots, the wood is broken or chipped out where an old hinge used to hang, or just from wear and tear. (Pictured below.) I'd like to repair it for cosmetic reasons before painting them and updating the rest of the shower.
What's the best way to make the repair? My instinct is to use my multi-tool to cut out the broken wood and then cut a new piece of wood and nail (and/or glue) it into the cutout. E.g. cut a 1"x1" section out of the broken corner and replace it with a solid piece of wood. Then saw/sand it flush. Is that a reasonable solution? Are there any more obvious / easier / better solutions? Thanks.


texts: Separate boiler and AC, to which does C wire connect for Nest thermostat

texts:
I have installed a Nest thermostat into a system with hot water heat and separate a/c system each with its own transformer.  To run a C wire to gain constant power, does the wire connect to the boiler, a/c, or to both.  Additionally, I would like to be able to disconnect the opposite system depending upon the season. Is this possible?  Thanks

2 on boiler side; R to Rh and W1 back to zone valves. 3 from a/c; R to Rc, Y to Y1, and G to G.  There are no designations on a/c terminal block but I am attaching schematic from documentation.  I assume my terminal marked with arrow would correspond to C.

Easy.  It is in the attic right above the thermo.  I can go either way, also, since I can fish from boiler to attic, to thermo as well.  Nest has never confirmed that with both Rc and Rh wired, the common wire connection for constant power is only between Rc and C which makes connecting to a/c the logical answer.


texts: How do I remove moss from an outdoor brick walkway?

texts:
I've got a brick walkway that has parts that are in shade most of the day. Our winters are wet and cloudy and during these times it's not uncommon for the shady parts of the walkway to grow a fair amount of moss on the bricks and grout (see the photos below).

Come summertime, the moss dries out and dies and can be hosed off quite easily. However, I have family coming in for the Holidays and would like to remove the moss pre-emptively, as it's both unsightly and slippery.

Any advice/suggestions on how best to remove the moss? My first thought was to just get down on my knees and scrub it off, but my concern was that it would grow back in short order. Would using bleach or a bleach-like product have a more lasting effect, or would using such a harsh product outside where there is grass and plants nearby be an unwise move?

Finally, is there any preventative steps I can take to reduce the quantity of moss that grows during our wet season?


texts: How do I restore boiler pressure through the filling tap?

texts:
I have a "Glow Worm" combi boiler that has been losing pressure slowly - from 1.0 bar to 0.6 bar over the course of a few months.

The instructions simply say that to restore pressure, "slowly open the filling tap beneath the boiler to pressurise system to 1.0 bar.  Ensure filling tap is then closed."

Being utterly hopeless with all things home-maintenance-related, I hope Stack Exchange can offer some advice!  The underside of my boiler looks like this:

The only thing that looks like it might be a "filling tap" is the blue blob in the middle near the top of the image.  Close-up:

As far as I can tell, the blue bit on the end doesn't twist or pull off to reveal anything underneath - though as the instructions say "slowly" I haven't twisted very hard. The shiny band just above it turns with no resistance at all, and I don't think turning it is doing anything useful.

Can you offer any advice as to where I am going wrong?  Is restoring pressure just a matter of turning the tap (when I find/manage it) on and off again?


texts:
Wall anchors say that they are rated for x number of pounds.

My questions are:

Is that “per anchor”?  And, if so, how accurate is it?  And up to what point?

For example: if I had 100 wall anchors rated for 100 lbs in drywall, and I distributed them evenly over a large space on my wall, could I hang a car?  Doesn’t seem likely, but I don’t know.

Practically, I’m hanging shelves, and I may be  placing some heavy stuff on them.  I want to know how much weight I can with certainty say they can hold, given that I’m using less than the calculated weight limit for the anchors for drywall.

In short, is there a weight at which anchor specifications become unreliable?  And if so, approximately what is it?


texts:
My wife has been suffering the past two years with severe asthma symptoms (never had asthma before this). She's been advised that it's probably mold.

We asked a company to look for moisture vulnerabilities. They pointed out salt deposits at the bottom of some cinder blocks in our basement. They said this is due to water on the outside trying to get in. They also pointed out that our sump is bone dry, and said that normally we should see some water in there - showing evidence that previously it was normal. (Our home is 40 years old).

They said that water is now blocked getting to our sump. They did an estimate on building a new drainage system/sump, involving jackhammering our foundation on the inside.

Looking for any advice/experience on this. The company said that blockage to a sump is unfixable. This is disappointing, given that the house was otherwise built with a lot of quality.

Except for one minor instance, we've never "seen" water come in the basement. But would like to have a normal working sump; and most of all, would like to prevent mold growth. Thanks for any help!!


texts:
(From my earlier posts, you may have learned that I had several different bibs cause several different floods in different parts of my house. Each instance posed its own unique challenges. This is a post about spigot number three.)
The following picture shows the spigot from the inside though an access hole:

It looks to me like I should be able to screw the spigot out but I wasn't able to do it due to resistance and I gave up for fear of causing greater damage. Am I correct that I should be able to screw the spigot out and, if so, are there some safe tricks for loosening the connection?


texts: Installing sub-panel, plus hot tub to new sub

texts:
Need to install a sub-panel off a 200amp service main panel that will be situated next to each other via 1" pvc conduit from bottom of each. The sub-panel is being installed to accommodate/supply a new hot tub with the manufacturer's recommended 50amp feed. And yes, there is a shut-off box (w/50amp GFCI breaker) being installed 6 foot away from hot tub and completely in line of sight. And yes, I know not to bond the sub.

A couple of questions:
1) Since main is full, I need to remove 2 (probably) breakers currently in the main panel to be relocated to the sub-panel to allow a 70amp breaker as feed for (and shut-off for) the new sub-panel. Is #6 THHN large enough, or would #4 be preferred, figuring the four wires needed, i.e. red, black, white and green?

2) Also, since the removal of the 2 breakers from the main (allowing space for the "feed" breaker) will reside in the sub-panel, am I allowed (with code and safety in mind), to add more same gauge wire length to the wires via wire nuts to reach the new location in the sub-panel?

3) I'm under the impression that the new sub-panel will not need its own ground rod due to its location to the main. I'm also under the impression that the hot tub shut-off box should probably have a ground rod of its own. This area, up on the side of a mountain is notorious and horrific, at best, for any kind of digging or attempting to drive an 8 foot stick in the very rocky ground. Is there anything else that can be done to duplicate what a ground rod would do that is considered acceptable?

Thanks for any and all responses!


texts: How do I make a fire break around our chimney?

texts:
We've purchased an older house built in the 70's, and one of the two chimney's lacks a fire break, meaning that you can see direct from the basement up into the second floor. There's a gap of approximately an inch between the flooring and the chimney, and when we had our chimneys capped the contractor recommended a fire break or fire stop but wasn't able to install it at the time.

My question is whether this is something I need a chimney professional to install or something that I can handle myself. He mentioned a part, unspecified, that was $25 or so, and I'm not sure what that is or where to start.

Any suggestions?


texts: Why did my basement start flooding while replacing sump pump?

texts:
The Setup

Last June, we bought a 16 year old townhouse with a finished basement; the sump pump was broken at least since March, when we first saw the house, but I suspect it was broken for a much longer time based on the looks of it (it appeared to be rotted to pieces). Soon after we bought the house, my dad and I decided to replace the sump pump ourselves.

The Players

my father, with 30+ years of homeownership experience that includes minor plumbing work
myself, new to homeownership
the rain, which wasn't too strong, but had started about an hour before we did
vacancy - the home hadn't been lived in since at least December the year before; it was foreclosed and some remodeling was done to prep it for sale

Some Observations

the water level in the pit was the same in March as it was in June; there was plenty of rain in the meantime, but water never came in the basement from what we can tell
no water was coming into the pit while it was raining
our unit is the second of 4 connected in a row. Our pump ejects to a pipe that merges with the neighbors' pipe. The neighbors have never had flooding
our basement had flooded at least twice in the last 15 years

What Happened

after we cut the pipe (below the check valve) and removed the sump pump, my father and I took it outside to marvel at its deconstruction--we surmised it could've been broken for a year or more, but we couldn't obtain any confirmation or evidence
after we came back downstairs to continue working, we noticed the sump pit filled to nearly the brim
about a half hour after we cut the pipe and removed the sump pump, my 3 year old noticed water coming in from the other side of the basement
we rushed to finish installing the new sump pump

What I Want to Know

Why did the water start coming in after we cut the pipe connecting the sump pump to the outside world? I briefly talked to a plumber about it, but he didn't have an explanation. Anyone have a similar experience? I'd love to figure this one out! Thanks.


texts: Does an activated carbon filter in a kitchen hood dry the air?

texts: Clearly, an activated carbon filter can be expected to collect what comes from the cooking plate with the air. But what happens to the moisture, how much of it will leave the hood?


texts:
I just hired an electrician to add electrical outlets to our older house. We decided to add our outlets to the base moulding because our house is an older lath and plaster construction.

When the electrician reattached the base moulding, he appeared to use screws to attach the base moulding vs. using nails. Not only that, he appeared to damage the quarter round moulding in the process. See attached picture.

Is this normal? Or did my electrician really mess up?

Thanks in advance for any experience and insights that people can provide!


texts: What would cause a pressure gauge to read zero when the pump is running?

texts:
We have recently had to replace our foot valve pressure switch and now pressure gauge.

What would cause the pressure gauge read 0 when the pump is running and 28 when off? It it won’t shut off by itself. We have to manually shut off the switch. The reading definitely makes no sense. Pressure switch and gauge are both brand new.


texts: How can I install a motion sensor for a closet light?

texts:
I am a total noob when it come to house fixing stuff.

I want to add some more lighting to my closet.
Rather than place a small light bulb with the switch on my closet,
I want the light to turn on automatically using some kind of sensor.

I know that I have to buy

a light bulb,
and a motion detector

I am not sure how to set up the sensor to trigger the lightbulb.
Can someone please give me some advice on that ?

Thanks.


texts: How do I add a 16'X16' Pergola to an existing floating deck?

texts: I just completed building a floating deck.  It is shaped like a trapezoid, due to the angle of my driveway.  The deck is 22.25' on the longest side.  The opposite, parallel side is 17.5' long.  The width of the deck is 16.5'  The back side is perpendicular to the parallel sides.  The angled side runs along the driveway.  My lawn is very uneven terrain.  The deck is supported by 9 concrete pillars that are 1 foot in diameter.  At the lowest corner, nearest the house, the deck is one step above the sidewalk.  The deck is 18 inches off the ground at the highest corner, diagonally across from the lowest corner. A 16'x16' pergola would have 3 of the corner posts or columns directly above concrete pillars, and the deck frame, underneath the decking boards.  Cinderblocks provide additional support under the frame where the 4th pergola corner post/column would be.  The pergola has an elaborate, multi-tiered, open design, would use 2" x 12" girders, but shouldn't weigh much more that a plain pergola of the same size.  At each corner of the pergola, there would be three (3) 6"x6" posts 4' apart making an "L" arrangement, with added lattice structure on each "L".  Cutting through the deck for the post is not a realistic option.  So, how do I attach the post to the deck to withstand the various pressures and to be aesthetically pleasing, as well?


texts:
We're slowly renovating our 90~100 year old house and when we get to the bathroom we intend to install a spa bath. Not a large spa/jacuzzi, just a bath. Most of those we've seen so far come with a pump that quite frankly leaves a lot to be desired. We want something that will massage our muscles, not something similar to a can of beans. At the same time we don't want to be blowing off the jets or pipework or having to choke the pump because it's too powerful.

Is there some information or a web site that can assist us in determining a suitable pump size for a given application?


texts: Is it possible to use ducts with a window a/c unit?

texts:
I'm trying to cool my home recording studio, but my window a/c unit is far too loud. I have a closet in the room which has a window and I was wondering if/how I could use ducts to put the a/c in the closet window and pipe it out into the room with the use of some 90 degree angle joint things.

The room is 12ftx12ft. The closet is 3.5ftx3ft.

This is the closet and an arrow to the window. The window inside is perpendicular to the room:

This is the window (it's bigger once opened) with the duct idea:

Then I was thinking of cutting 2 holes in the closet door for the vents and keeping the door shut to cut down on noise:

I'm not very concerned with 100% efficiency as long as it will cool the room a bit while being quieter. Unfortunately, I can't install a mini-split or central.


texts: Is the Gap Between the Window Header and the Header a Problem?

texts: I'm renovating a bathroom. This section of the house is single story. I noticed that there is a 1/4 to 1/2 in gap between the window header and the top plate. So, the header isn't carrying any weight.  Is this a problem or should I leave it? The house is 50 yrs old. There haven't been any issues with it. (I have to replace the jack and king studs on the right side due to termite damage.)


texts:
I have hardware in my bathroom that does not have the usual Allen Wrench screw anywhere on it to remove the trim.  I have attached pictures of the hardware.

I don't want to apply too much force in turning the faucet in case I do more damage behind the walls.  I also read they may be pull off but that again makes me wary as to what forces are being applied behind the wall.

Any ideas?


texts: Fixing a couple of screw holes on a dryer

texts:
Note: I apologize beforehand if my question lacks any necessary information. Repairing my own stuff is a new experience for me. I am happy to provide any additional information on request. If this question's already been asked in some form, I apologize. Close as duplicate, you know the drill.

I have a pair of what I'm assuming to be stripped screw holes on a newly-purchased dryer unit. I tried screwing them in initially with a power tool which I now know that was the wrong thing to do. When I try screwing in the screws manually, the screws get incredibly tight and won't go all the way in.
The holes are where the metal piece for the dryer door latches, so these screw holes are necessary. I tried using Woodmate's Mr. Grip Stripped Screw Hole Repair Kit, but there is no "back" in the holes to catch the strips, and the holes are so tiny that the strip I cut has a single row of teeth.

--

Questions
First: Are the holes stripped? If so, what options do I have for fixing small stripped holes on a dryer unit? (I have no way of isolating the screw holes from the rest of the unit, at least without taking the whole dryer apart)
Second: If they are not stripped, what am I doing wrong? Other than using a power tool on the first attempt of screwing them in, that part was my fault. Is this something a beginner can fix?
Follow-up: Would it be okay to fill the holes with clay or putty or even melted solder and then try screwing the screw back in before the material dries? Or is that a recipe for disaster?

--

Details
Dryer model: MED5630HW (stackable, square door)
Screw type: WPW10288126, T25, they are ~1/2 inches in length

--

Background info:

I recently bought a new dryer and forgot to mention to the salesperson that the door would need to be flipped before delivery. I decided to do it myself.

I have the door flipped and attached to the dryer unit, but in the process I mistakenly stripped a couple of screw holes using a power tool. If I try manually screwing the screws in with a hand tool, they get stuck halfway.

I'm a beginner with DIY stuff (I shocked myself that I was able to flip the dryer door on my own), so I don't feel comfortable with re-threading the screw hole with a new screw because it's a new dryer. If it weren't new or it was something else, I wouldn't care and I'd consider it a learning experience if I mucked something up. I really don't want to make things worse.

Edit - pictures:
#1 - Problematic screw holes

#2 - Close up of one screw hole

#3 - The door attachment that I'm trying to attach to my dryer, picture was taken before I started


texts: Do I need to replace the door chime when installing Ring Pro?

texts: I’m looking to get a Ring Doorbell Pro and I know I need to replace my doorbell transformer, but someone in this online forum suggested replacing the mechanical door chime (which is as old as my 35 yo home) as well ,  as it risks getting burned out when used with Ring Doorbell Pro.  Is that accurate info?


texts: I'm having trouble fixing a mysterious toilet leak

texts:
I have a Caroma (Australia) eco-style toilet. There is a recurring leak around the base but ONLY when the water supply main valve is turned on.
The toilet can have water in the bowl, and water in the tank, with no leak. There is no sweating on tanks, and no leaks from any of the visible attachment points from water main, or tank-to-bowl.
I have replaced the wax seal with no change to the leak issue.
With water valve on, it takes about 2-3 minutes before I can see water collecting round the base. When I fill the tank up, and turn off the main, the tank will drain itself, I assume into the bowl, as it does not appear round the base.
The water is clear and not stinkified so don't think it has anything to do with the outgoing pipe and seal.
Any suggestions as to where/why/how this is happening and a fix?


texts: Can you spray paint one color on top of another color of spray paint?

texts:
I want to spray paint a piece of wood blue, then on top of it, put a stencil of map and spray paint that green.

Will the green successfully cover the blue or will the colors combine and become muddy?


texts: Are rainproof fittings to connect meter box and weather head to rigid steel conduit required?

texts: My utility company specifies 2" rigid steel conduit for my exterior-mounted, overhead service drop/service entrance.  Do I need to use special rainproof fittings when coupling the rigid conduit to the meter box, weather head, and any intermediate couplings?  If so, please provide an example.  References to the relevant sections of the NEC are also appreciated.


texts: How do I extend electrical boxes 3 inches or more?

texts:
I am hanging a new wall using Genie Clips.  After the clips, hat track, and two layers of drywall, we're talking about an added distance from the electrical boxes of over 3 inches.  Quick research has lead me to electrical box extenders, but they only work for so many inches, so I will need to find another way to accommodate that distance.

I imagine the hack way to do it would be to get a thick block of wood and screw it into the stud with a few long screws then mount the electrical box onto that.  I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work, but something tells me there's a better way.

Also, is there a way to mount an electrical box directly to the drywall?  If so, this would be a more ideal approach for me.  Since this is a huge soundproofing project, the added benefit of having electrical boxes that are detached from the studs would be an extra win even though I still bought plenty of QuietPutty.


texts: Fixing Incorrect Concrete Leveler Application

texts:
I have a 400 Square Foot garage that has a lot of gouges in the concrete floor. I purchased some primer and Concrete Leveler in order to fix the gouges. I made a mistake and accidentally mixed 4 times the amount of water in the concrete and applied it anyway. It looks bad, but I was hoping that there would be a way to salvage the application with another bag of the concrete leveler (Properly mixed this time). Is this the correct way to go about doing this?

I tried applying the primer on top of the incorrectly applied concrete leveler, but it seems to be absorbing it.


texts: Insufficient voltage to dryer receptacle; what next?

texts:
I just moved into a home and I am hooking up a used dryer (which I'm told works).  The dryer spins, but I get no heat.

I bought a multimeter, and it tells me that the receptacle provides insufficient voltage for both the dryer's spin and heat.  The receptacle is a NEMA 10-30.  Referring to the poles as listed in this diagram, I get the full 120V between poles W and Y, but only 45V between poles W and X (and 70V between X and Y).  I think, from these DIY questions (1 2), that I should get 120V between W and X and 240V between X and Y.

I even took the receptacle off the wall, and I get the same readings from the bare wires.

So here's my question: is it time to call an electrician, or are there some other things I can investigate on my own?


texts: What is the min. voltage cordless drill should I use to drill a hole in a 2 cm thick stainless steel

texts: I have a 2 cm thickness (3/4 inch) stainless steel that I would like to drill some holes on it. What is the min. voltage cordless drill should I use? Are there other alternative beside drill to create holes on the stainless steel? (The holes diameter range from 0.5cm to 2cm [3/16" to 3/4"])


texts: I have purchased two identical 4' flush mount LED lights and two identical dimmer switches.  The first set I installed in the master bathroom works perfectly.  The dimmer switch goes from very low light to very bright like just as it should.  The second set in the upstairs bathroom will not dim at all.  I have replaced both the light and the switch now and it still will not dim.  What do I do to make the second bathroom work like the first bathroom?


texts: Help me remove kitchen sink cabinet plumbing

texts:
I am removing a sink cabinet temporarily to demolish the tile floor under it. The cabinet is going away in about a month when new kitchen cabinets arrive, so after demolishing the floor, I need to put it back temporarily to have a functioning kitchen sink.
The hot and cold water pipes are 1/2" copper with sweated Ts for the taps for dishwasher and icemaker. The hole at the bottom of the cabinet is hard to get to due to cover but looks 1.5" in diameter. The drain pipe is cemented as shown.
What is the typical procedure for removing these fixtures to swap out the cabinets? I don't mind hacking up the back of this cabinet just so that I can easily remove and put back the existing sink but when the new cabinets arrive, I'm thinking I could heating up the reducing coupling (circled in red), cutting it across (shown in green) and peeling it from the drain pipe. Then I could remove the compression fittings on the copper Ts, Pull cabinet forward a bit to clear the drain, and lift the cabinet up, hoping the Ts will clear 1.5" hole. This would avoid me doing unsweating of those T's. Anyone has better suggestions? I have done some limited sweating (actually I added a pressure regulator to my water main and other minor jobs), so I have some experience. Should I just do that? Or since I need to put it back temporarily, should I just cut at the tees and go with Sharkbite fittings that I can remove and pit back at will?
Thanks, David


texts: Completely remove nicotine stains and odors from walls?

texts:
We're in the process of buying an apartment that was previously occupied by a heavy smoker for 20+ years. This isn't the unit, but the damage is about as bad.

I've scoured the internet for examples of people who have had success removing the stains and, maybe more importantly, the odor, but they're aren't many that I've been able to find.

Has anyone on here been able to successfully remove nicotine stains and odor from the walls of a house or apartment?

I'm not really interested in hearing anyone's opinions of what should work, but rather a testimony of someone who has faced this issue and was able to remedy it successfully. Alternatively, if you've tried something and it hasn't work, I'd like to hear that as well.

This is my game plan:

Wash the walls and ceilings extensively with TSP
Apply two coats of stain blocker (maybe KILZ?)
Apply one coat of plaster weld, plaster and skim coat the walls
Apply two coats of primer-sealer and two coats of finish paint


texts: Why are appliance cords (like a dryer or oven) usually flat?

texts:
What is this type of wire called?
I've been looking for a longer cord, or just bulk wire without ends for a table saw. I'd like the cord flat as it has to run along the floor, and most extension cords are fat and round, while most appliance type cords are too short. (Or can I use romex?)


texts: How to measure 1/4" per 1' slope for rainwater drainage for a flat roof

texts:
During the last big rain here in AZ, I noticed a significant amount of ponding in the newly renovated areas of our roof.  I first noticed the sitting water while it was still raining and about 2 days later the water was still present.  I contacted my general contractor, but he's questioning how long the water was present.

Is there a way I can measure the slope of the roof to determine if it is at least at the minimum for a flat roof (1/4" per 1')?


texts: How can i run my counter top convection oven and counter top microwave at the same time without tripping the breaker?

texts: Looking to be able to run my counter top toaster oven and my counter top microwave off the same breaker without tripping.  I need to save my counter space by stacking the units and sharing the outlet.


texts: Will 2x10 13'6" span support outdoor bbq?

texts: I am building a deck and will have 2x10 joists.  I want to put a BBQ that unfortunately will run parallel with the joists, so the last two joists will support the full weight of the BBQ distributed across 10'?  The span of the joists are 13' 6" between the header and supporting beam.  The outer rim will be doubled 2x10s.  My overestimate of the BBQ is that it will weight 2000-2200lbs.  Will the current joists support the weight?  If I double the 2nd joist, will that help?  Does that effectively support twice the weight or is that not how that works?  Should an additional post be added mid-span?


texts: Brand New Nail Gun Makes a Dent but No Nails Come Out

texts: I just got a Blue Hawk air compressor and nail gun combo. I have added oil, I'm using 18 ga 5/8" nails and when I press the trigger a dent shoots into the wood but no nails.  I called support and they were unable to help me.  Any ideas?  Is it just defective?


texts: NEC, use more extension boxes or an access panel?

texts:
What is the maximum number of extension boxes you can hang from a ceiling? This is ridiculous and I probably need one or two more to meet the new drywall ceiling. Are junction boxes permitted behind access panels in drywall?

OK, I took all of them out, turns out that part of the ceiling is to be exposed anyway. Still, does code neither expressively permit, nor expressively forbid J-boxes behind panels? I have more fun stuff going on behind me that I'm not even willing to photo.


texts: What is the most solid way to mount floating shelves?

texts:
I want to install a series of floating shelves to hold mostly books and some other heavy items in my living room.

I found this on Instructables where one use expansion bolt and 6mm thread bar for what seems like a very solid setup. I was wondering if the expansion bolt could be used in the wall studs as my walls are way too thin oterwise.

I also found this post here where one recommend to use Z-clip. Yet I am not sure how much weight a 12 inch deep shelve could hold which such a mount. How can I mount heavy stuff on wooden studs?

What do you think is the most robust choice?


texts: Why are some light bulbs labeled “Not For Sale in the United States"?

texts:
My wife was in a convenience store in New York City, looking for light bulbs. She came across several packages of 40 watt GE bulbs. The packages were labeled in English, and said, in part, “Not For Sale in the United States”. Putting aside the fact that New York City is in the United States (although there were also packages of bulbs labeled in Spanish), why would light bulbs be labeled that way?
The only additional information she has is that they were manufactured in Hungary.


texts: What are the codes for electrical wiring in attics?

texts:
What is the typical code for wiring in attics? I understand these vary but what's best practice?

Can you just have electrical wires exposed with all the junctions, in junction boxes, provided all the exposed wiring is anchored to the wood studs?  What about insulation that comes in contact with the wiring? Or does the wiring have to be an aluminum armor?


texts: Is my plan to safely remove asbestos siding sound?

texts:
After reading a some other questions I haven't found an answer similar enough for what I'm thinking about doing.  So here goes.

Full disclosure up front.  Before I even touch a single siding shingle, I'm going to check with local authorities to get the skinny on permits, disposal, and all that stuff.  I know that alone may scotch my idea.

My house was built in 1920 and has asbestos siding all round.  It's mostly in good shape, but frankly, I don't like the look of it.  I want to replace it with hardiboard or some other type of cement fiber siding.  I plan on doing this my self.  Here is what I'm thinking about doing:

First, tyvek suits and a respirator mask and eye protection.  I'm not going to take big risks on this project.
Second, carefully remove the asbestos shingles.  They were just nailed on, and the majority of nail heads are raised enough to grab the nails without cracking or damaging the tiles.  I'll be wetting the whole area down as I work to minimize dust.
Third, once I remove a row on a wall, Hang cement fiber siding panels in place.  Keep working row by row.

Anticipated problems:  I'm by myself on this, so I won't be able to get a whole wall done at once.  I'll be doing this mostly on weekends so It may take several months to complete.  Given that amount of time, I don't want to just strip the house and leave it bare for a few seasons with only house wrap for protection.  There isn't anything like insulation on the outside of the house, so I'm wondering how to do this right, but understanding my limitations on the time I can put in on this.
Am I crazy?  I'm pretty sure I'm missing something.  Is there a better method and material that will serve with my time constraints.  An alternative might be stucco.

Also considering putting something up over the top of the Asbestos Siding.  Would this be possible or preferable.


texts: Using reverse osmosis (RO) to reduce arsenic in well water?

texts:
I have a well with 1.9 ug/L total arsenic (As). Yes this is below the EPA action level of 10 ug/L. However, most states do have warnings indicating that longer term consumption of As below that level can still lead to health effects. So, I am looking to remove as much As as possible. RO seems to be a preferred method. I see a lot of information on its efficacy when As levels are high, but not as much info on how effective it is when As levels are low. Can anyone tell me how RO systems perform where As levels are already low?
Additional info:

There is some iron in the water, but there is already a water softener pre-treatment tank to take most of that out. Lack of staining in the
toilet tanks would seem to confirm that it is working.

I don't know if it is As(III) or As(V). I am aware that will impact performance. For the sake of this question let's assume it gets
converted to As(V)

Nitrate and chloride all test near the detection limits.

I am thinking along the lines of an under sink model rather than a whole house system.


texts: Removing knockouts in composite granite sink

texts:
The sink has one existing hole, and 3 knockouts which are cut about half way through the material.

What are the best tools, and techniques for removing fixture knockouts on a composite granite sink?


texts: How much power should I run to my workshop?

texts: I have a work shop currently powered with a 20 amp breaker coming from my main panel. I want to dedicate that to a small hot water heater, and run more power for other appliances. I was thinking of running more power from my house's subpanel. I’d like to also power a small heat/ac window unit, microwave, plus some receptacles and lights. Would one more 20 amp circuit be enough, or should I run two 20 amp circuits?


texts: Can i use my A/C with the front panel/lid just a little bit open?

texts:
Using my AC with the front panel/lid just a little bit open prevents it from doing a horrendous sound.

Is it ok to use it like that?

Thanks!


texts: Inside of Washing Machine smells horrible. How to fix?

texts:
I bought a used Washing Machine (Miele W828) that looked to be in perfect condition.

It actually works perfectly.  However, the inside of the Machine smells horrible, like mildew.  This smell gets really strong right after a wash.

I've read online about doing a Hot Cycle wash to clean the inside of a Washing Machine, and did 2 of those at 95 C / 200 F and it only made the smell stronger.

I also read that it could be caused by a clogged drain pump that can be accessed from the front of the machine (by opening a front lid and unscrewing and draining the water), but it had only 2 coins in there.  Although the long screw top had some black stuff on it that I tried to clean, the inside of it or the area I pulled it from was not particularly bad.

I then read that you can run a Hot Cycle with White Vinegar or Bleach in the dispenser drawer to fix smelly washing machines, so I did one Hot Cycle with about 1.5 L of White Vinegar and it made no difference, and then I did one Hot Cycle with about 2 L of Bleach and although I could smell the Bleach afterwards, the strong mildew smell was still there.

I moved the machine from where it's tucked into the wall to see if any smells were coming from behind it, and I couldn't detect any smells behind the machine.  But as soon as I open the front door of the Washing Machine, the smell hits you like a ton of bricks.  The smell also hits you when you open the Dispenser Drawer, so I removed the Dispenser Drawer (which is clean) and the inside was very nasty.

Here is a pic of the inside of the Dispenser Drawer (with the Drawer removed), of the big tube going down from it, and of the drum:

Dispenser Drawer:

Enlarge

Big Tube Going Down:

Enlarge

Drum:

Enlarge

(The liquid you see in the Drum is bleach that I added there directly for another Hot Cycle wash I'm currently doing.)

Based on those pics, the inside of this machine is completely nasty despite the outside of the machine and drum looking perfectly fine and the machine itself working fine.

Is this fixable or is this machine doomed?  If it's the former, then how can I fix this?


texts: Turn on gas wall heater w/o electric thermostat

texts: We are having a power outage in much of Los Angeles right now, big storm (02/17/17 3:55PM). I have a gas wall heater, pilot is lit, but no power to the wall thermostat. Can I turn on the unit manually to get heat?


texts:
The lamp post at the corner of my driveway is perforated with rust. It appears to have come in two pieces as the top half is slightly smaller than the bottom and there is what looks like a reducing fitting at the midpoint. Other than that, it looks like most ~3" straight posts I've seen.

I dug down a bit and it seems like there's cement around the bottom of the post as if it was installed following http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1531708,00.html.  I don't want to have to take out the whole footing.

It seems that with something like http://www.lightingdirect.com/kichler-9510-72-cast-aluminum-post-with-concrete-hardware/p1222544 I could dig out around the existing post, put sonotube in the hole, fill that with concrete, cut the old post off at the top of the concrete, and bolt the new post down.  Does make sense or am I missing something?


texts: Will there be damage if I don't shovel the snow off (due to snow thaw/freeze/thaw)? Is it safe to use a metal shovel on vinyl decking? Is it ok to allow the stuff to melt naturally if I don't plan to walk on it?


texts:
I'm going to use Prova-Flor + 5/8 T&G OSB + Laminate flooring planks for flooring in my basement, so the total height should be around 1 1/2". I'm not sure what to do about the bathroom, though.

I could use Ditra membrane + ceramic tiles directly over concrete, which is relatively straight-forward, but I'm concerned that:

The floor will be very cold, especially during the winter.
The floor in the bathroom will be much lower than in other rooms.

Products like Prova-Flor do not list ceramic tiles as supported top floor, so I'd like to know what could I use to try to insulate the top ceramic tile layer from the cold concrete beneath it. I don't want to actively heat the floor, though.


texts: If I only want to pressurise central heating not hot water should I get a regular boiler or system boiler

texts:
My boiler has packed in, the heat exchanger has failed and the consensus is that was due to sludge, gunk in the system, also consensus is would be better to pay a bit more and get a new boiler and guarrantee rather than getting it repaired.

My system is a regular open-vented system. The benefits of a sealed pressurized system have been explained to me and my view is I would like the central heating pressurized but not the hot water system.

The reason being I do not want the hot water system pressurized is I am concerned about additional noise from having water pipes all pressurized, and all the extra cost and hassle of having to replace the hot water cylinder.

The reason being I do want the central heating system pressurized is the system seems suspectible to air and sludge, there is a problem getting radiators high up in house working. And it makes sense to me to fill the system once, and having it continually reuse that water for the heating system.

But I am unclear whether it would be better to get a System Boiler or a Regular Boiler with kit for this purpose. System Boiler seems to only be when heating and hot water is pressurized, regular when neither is.

I understand that a regular boiler can be used with a pressurized sealed heating system via use of a external pressure balloon ectera. I am not clear whether you can use System Boiler if you are only going to use it for heating water used in the central heating system and not for directly heating hot water.

I am not sure if you can use a System boiler in a non-pressurized system. i.e if a System boiler is installed, and then we find pipes are too leaky or mains pressure not enough would that then mean System Boiler was no use or could it be used liked a regular Boiler ?


texts: How to change a 2 gang switch to a smart switch

texts: I want to change my 2 gang switch to a smart switch. There are two lights connected to 2 gang switch and now I'm changing to a smart switch with also 2 switches. How can I do it?


texts: How do I search for a mixed smart-normal switch plate?

texts: I want to change only ONE of the switches to a smart switch. I am confused about what I need to buy. Can I just use one of these smart switches? What confuses me is - how does the cover plate work? Do I need to change both to smart switches or do they make a cover plate with one of each?  How do I find that on the Internet, i.e. which search terms to use?


texts: Electric range stove burned black hot wire

texts: Ok. So my range has burned off one of the 2 black wires on the terminal block, which I'm assuming was due to a loose connection. My whirlpool range goes to a 50A breaker. There is 2 red  /1 white/ 2 black (10AWG/14AWG) hot wires . I was told to replace the black wire with a  #6 wire but I'm confused with finding the right wire. Most wires seem to be labelled as AWG. The burned cable says it's a 14 AWG cable so wouldn't I be looking for that instead of a #6 wire? Also the wire says it's rated for 150 c temperature but most wires aren't rated that high. I have a 14 AWG 90 c wire, would that be able to handle the heat of the range?


texts: Gluing pvc quarter round in the shower corner

texts:
I had my shower done and the tile work is very ugly in corners.
Wondering if gluing PVC finished quarter round with clear silicone would work in the long run?
Anyone had any experience with it? Any suggestions?


texts: How do I choose paint for exterior steel on carport?

texts: Planning on painting the steel purlins of a carport, that is peeling.  I assume the primer and old paint are "oil based" alkyd. I think we will have it sandblasted.  What primer should I use on the bare parts.  Can I use an acrylic finish coat, if the paint that is left was oil?


texts: Can I paint the background of my gas fireplace?

texts: I want to paint the background of my gas fireplace (behind the logs) a lighter color so the logs and fire will be more visible.  Do you know of a paint I can use to do this?


texts: What product to use for sealing a wood tv stand

texts: I just finished building a tv stand (it is basically the same design as this one but with modified dimensions to be bigger: http://www.ana-white.com/2012/05/plans/rustic-x-console) and have stained it and now want to apply a finishing coat. It's a tv stand so it's not going to get a lot of abuse but I want to still give it a finishing coat. Want I want to know what is the recommendation for a piece of furniture like this? They seems to be shellac, lacquer, polyurethane...etc. Is there a preferred medium to use and if so why? From what I read polyurethane seems like the way to go, however, it sounds a bit difficult to use and where I am most concerned is on the more hard to reach places like the X's.


texts: How can I fix a leaking sprinkler valve?

texts: My sprinkler valve leaks water as soon it shuts off. By checking online and going to Home Depot first I installed new inside parts, that didn't solve the problem. then I was told that I had to replace the whole valve, so I did and it's still doing the same thing. Anybody know what's going on or how to fix it?


texts: Ceiling cracks appear and worsen over weeks. Self repair or professional?

texts:
Background

We recently purchased a home built in mid-50s. At the time, no structural movement or displacement was noted by the home inspector. Over the last few weeks, there have been long cracks on the ceiling of a room appearing and worsening. We've had low temps averaging 40F (lowest 27F) and we keep the house 61F minimum at night.

The first crack that appeared was (A), then shortly after (C), and now (B) as of today. There is some evidence of previous repair (varying paint texture) for cracks (A) and (C), but not so much for (B). There are no cracks on the walls or elsewhere in the house.

Please see question after photos.

Approx locations from attic:

Ceiling:

Question

Is this symptomatic of a structural issue requiring a professional, or expected from an older home in low temperatures and remedied with DIY patching? If structural issue, what is the urgency (could it wait months)? Thank you!


texts: I have a 15 year old house, with a GFI in the basement, yesterday when I came home I found that it had tripped. I took everything off of the circuit and reset it. Within a couple of minutes it tripped again. Why is this happening?


texts: Can (must) P-trap be directly underneath the drain in stand-up shower stall? I'm roughing in a 48"X36" one piece shower stall with a center drain. In the photo I've just got it dry fit. This is the way I "think" it's supposed to go? I can't imagine moving the P-trap any closer to the vent, as I'd have to use another 90. Or, asking another way, can I do it this way? Total distance is 24" to the vent, so I'm good there. A shower with other than a center drain is not an option, this is a stand up shower only, not a tub.  The way I envision this is I'll have about 4-6 inches coming out the trap (the "e" in pipe is level with top of crete), then the drain base glued on that. Yes I can easily slope to the vent, picture doesn't show it well. BTW the wye on the vent is already glued in (long time ago), and yes I plan on completing the vent with two couplings, vent is already plumbed to the main vent stack (not pictured) above, and yes, I plan on closing this back up with crete, then the shower stall on top of that. The clean-out in the photo is from the old laundry drain and is no longer connected to anything.


texts: How do I remove mold and mildew from subfloor  of a house with crawl space?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Mold remediation in crawlspace

House with crawl space has mold and mildew on the sub-floor. I've determined the cause is no vapor barrier and a leaky pipe and there is no structural damage to the wood. I'm installing a vapor barrier and repairing the leaky pipe to stop the moisture source.  Questions:[1] How can I effectively remove the mold and mildew from the sub-floor? [2] If I stop the source of moisture and provide adequate ventilation to the crawl space, will that be enough to stop the mold growth?


texts: What is this kind of door lock called in English?

texts:
Would it be called "overlap door lock"?
Instead of being installed inside the door, it is screwed outside of the door.


texts: How to replace my kitchen sink basket with no lock nut?

texts:
I have a kitchen sink basket that's leaky and has a bunch of gunk caught under it. I want to replace it. All the instructions I see for removing and replacing a kitchen sink basket start by removing the lock nut underneath:

My sink, however, doesn't have a lock nut. The pressure cup is plastic and I have no idea how to remove it.

Here's what it looks like from the top. I tried holding that little center piece steady with a screw driver and tried to unscrew the basket from beneath, but it just turns and turns and won't loosen. Any ideas?


texts: I'm replacing old insulation in a 1962 cape cod style house in the Baltimore area and trying to determine if I need vapor barrier. The more I research, the more complicated the answer becomes. The IRC has several zones defined that help in guiding this, and a map that shows where they are. But zone 4, which includes my area, has several subtypes (which aren't shown on the map) and I have no idea how to find out which I'm in. How can I find out exactly what zone I am in?


texts: What is best caulk for a 3/8" wide X 1" deep gap between a shower floor and wall?

texts:
I planned to use Loctite Polyseamseal with a backer rod.
 I called Loctite tech support and they advised against it in that Polyseamseal won't hold   up in a standing water situation. That surprised the heck out of me! The advertising and spec sheet did not mention that prohibition.
 Anyhow,it's an awfully big joint to caulk.  Would appreciate DIY any suggestions.

*UPDATE: I have attached A PHOTO OF THE STALL. The floor is ceramic tile and the two walls are some sort of composite panels with gold marble patterns.

I would appreciate any help or guidance.


texts: I have a Goodman high efficient furnace with a carrier humidifier attached to the back. The humidifier wasn't working because the solenoid coil was burned, so I replaced it with a new solenoid. The humidifier has a control panel mounted to the airduct. I'm trying to wire this humidifier up. I do have a 24volt transformer, but no HUM connection on the board. I noticed on the wiring diagram for the furnace it says to wire the humidifier to the C connection on the RYG...etc. I'm lost here. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.


texts: Does this main service panel require blocks opposite main breaker?

texts:
This Murray Model 18 is the main 100A service panel to a residence in the U.S.  It uses Cutler-Hammer BR-style breakers.

I'm confused because the panel cover blocks the two bus slots on the top right, next to the main breaker, and the cover there doesn't even have knock-outs like the other slot covers.  Is there a rule or reason why breakers should not be put in either of those slots?


texts:
This bug problem is really stressing me out. I doubt they are bedbugs though because there aren't a lot. I remove 3-8 from my bed a day, and I've read that bedbugs are present in much greater numbers.

They are very small, oval-shaped, and normally have red/brown spots. I'd like to fix the situation as soon as possible since I know they're there and are probably crawling on me while I try to sleep.


texts: Are metal anchors or buried posts better for 6 x 6 posts for a pavilion?

texts: I'm trying to figure out the best way to set 6 x 6 posts for a pavilion.  I'm considering the two methods below.  I know they both have their good and bad points.  I believe the first will extend the life of the posts but will require extra bracing for lateral movement.  The second will resist lateral movement but it will reduce the life of the posts.


texts: Can I place ventilation ducting on top of joists if there is space?

texts:
I'm installing a ceiling-mounted extractor fan above a kitchen island.  The problem is with the placement of ventilation ducting in the ceiling: the joists are running in the opposite direction to the only viable wall where the ducting needs to travel towards.

However; in the ceiling there is about a 120mm (4.5 inch) void above the joists before the the floor above.  This gap is easily big enough to fit flat channel ducting so that I can rest the ducting on the joists in a perpendicular fashion.  (see diagram below)

My question is: Is this OK to do?  I haven't seen this done elsewhere.

Thank you!

Addition:  Heres a quick photo:


texts: Why do my CFL bulbs turn off after a while?

texts:
I have two groups of 4 recessed lights in my kitchen (eight lights total). Each group is on a three-way circuit (i.e. can turn the group on/off from two different locations). The bulbs are Ecosmart 60W CFLs. They are on a 15A 120V circuit with no other loads on it (circuit has a few outlets that aren't being used). The breaker for the circuit has never tripped as far as I know.

The problem I have is that most of the bulbs eventually turn off. I've heard them make buzzing sounds when I turn on the light and sometimes they flicker. But eventually they all seem to turn off. I've unscrewed and re-screwed them in and they again will flicker as I jiggle it around but once completely seated it turns off. I've replaced all the bulbs. Right now only 1 of the 8 bulbs is on yet they are all new bulbs. I've checked each recessed lighting receptacle with my voltage pen and they are all getting voltage. I'll add that the lighting cans/canisters in the attic are mostly covered/surrounded by insulation (if that matters or makes a difference).

Does anyone have any idea why this might be happening or what else I can check? Could it be the wiring of the receptacles in the attic? Perhaps the bulbs are just bad bulbs for these type of receptacle?


texts: One of my door hinges came out. Now the hole is loose and the hinge doesn't stay in the hole. Door keeps falling. How do I repair this? If it can be glued, what kind of glue should I use?


texts: Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Red "Add Salt" and "Drying" Lights at End of Cycle

texts:
I have a Jenn-Air dishwasher, model JDB9800CWP2. It seems to be working normally, except that at the end of the cycle, the Add Salt and Drying lights are dimly glowing red. It has not done this before, except that it would sometimes have the "Add Salt" light lit when I did need to add salt.
This issue with both the Add Salt and Drying lights glowing red started about 1.5 weeks ago, just after we started experiencing a leak that went unnoticed for a few days. At the time, the dishwasher was leaking and not completing its drying cycle.
We just had the leak repaired - a component attached to the dishwasher basin was what was leaking, and the repair person replaced the whole basin. We've used the dishwasher a few times, and it seems to be working normally, except for these odd indicator lights at the end of the cycle. What do they mean?
For clarity, the dishes are dry at the end of the cycle, and the salt container is full to the brim.


texts: Find the model for an unknown (non-Häger) wall thermostat?

texts:
I recently bought a house, after years in a flat. Many things are novel to me, especially the heating system. The digital thermostat is of an unknown  brand, the former owner could not tell me (I suspect he did not use it), and I am looking for a user manual. It looked like a Häger screen to me, so I sent them, and they answered it was not.

Do these pictures ring a bell to someone who could help me find the model? Top-left: view without the slidable panel to uncover the buttons; Top-right: slidable panel turned +90° (probably a sticker made for the French); Bottom-right: inside view; Bottom-left: zoom on the printed circuit.


texts:
I will explain what I would "Ideally" want. I would like the HVAC in the basement ceiling to Not require a soffit. Plumbing seems possible because the holes for the most part will be small enough to not affect the structural integrity. So the question is what is possible?

There is also a similar post here. They talk about the limits on what can be done to floor joists. From my understanding, it would not be possible to install any ducts through the floor joists. If I am wrong, please let me know.

Last would be what is the alternative? Is it possible to run the ducts through the roof attic? (I assume that opens a whole different set of issues) Plus that doesn't fix the cold air return which should be on the bottom if I am not mistaken. I would really like to avoid soffits if possible but everything I am researching is pointing that direction.

EDIT: The house is an existing home. The basement floor to ceiling is already at the 8' mark. The joists are typical dimensional lumber (not engineered)

Radiant/Hydronic Heating - The idea is awesome. If I was doing a new construction, this would probably be one of the best options.

"low-volume, high-velocity" ducted system - First time I have seen something like this. Its very interesting. I did read there are some disadvantages like noise and it can be costly to add.

To Clarify a bit more, I would like to keep the costs low so redoing the entire heating/cooling system is probably not going to be an option. (of course it depends on what costs would be). I intended to keep with the conventional heating/cooling and was more or less looking for a way to still it but avoid soffits. The image below is an example of what I had original wanted but it doesn't seem like that is up to standard?

EDIT-Image below is a not my current hvac. Its also a BAD way to do it. Was using it as a reference.


texts: I think I overloaded a wall outlet and the breaker never tripped

texts:
!

Any suggestions on how to fix this? How dangerous is it right now? Thanks for suggestions.

!


texts: How to repair asphalt roof with no decking

texts:
I had a windstorm blow a large tree limb through the roof of my shed and I need to repair it. It's one of those pre-made sheds that the previous homeowner likely got installed on-site from Home Depot or similar. Problem is there is no decking on the roof at all, it has 24in studs with what looks like a 1/2" insulation and moisture barrier and that's it.
It's not exactly new, so I'm considering just re-tiling over the existing asphalt for the entire roof but still I'm not quite sure how to properly secure the new tiles with nothing to nail them into except studs every 24in.
Is there any way to repair this other than replacing the entire roof?
Is there a typical way to deal with repairing or re-roofing these or do people normally tear it all the way down to install decking and tile it properly?


texts:
I'm trying to come up with options for soundproofing around our water softener (and the mechanicals that go alongside it - not including water heater). Currently when it goes through it's regen cycle, it makes a lot of noise that echoes through the basement and upstairs (open concept to basement). Since this runs every few days, and we are planning to start our family soon, I would like to get this noise under control.
I've read several articles about soundproofing for a home theater, and am tempted to go that route, but I'm wondering if any one has experience with this. Do the home solutions (like double drywall with green glue) actually work for this, or is this sound a different frequency or some other properties that make that useless? Since it's such a small space, could I build up a box or covering with some MLV, and would that block enough noise? If I just layer up insulation, is it possible (within reason) to block the noise?
Or any other ideas that anyone has. I'm open for suggestions, preferably if anyone has done this before and can recommend do's and don't's.
Thank you!


texts: Should I use 3 wire or 4 wire for a range?

texts:
I am trying to do a little work and have an electrician check it.  I have a range that is a 3 prong 50amp 125/250 (looks like the 10-50R).

List of materials purchased:

50 amp Siemens Circuit Breaker
25 ft of 6/3 Aluminum wire
Staples
Cable Brackets
50amp 125/250V receptacle

I am aware that the code changed in 1999 requiring 4 wire, albeit after I purchased this stuff.  Would it be better for longevity to install 6/4 rather than the 6/3 and have the 3 prong range plug rewired?  Not even sure if you can install the 3wire, though it is an old house.


texts: Can I use a 23 W CFL in a fixture that's rated for a 60 W incandescent?

texts: I have a lamp that is rated at 60 Watts for an incandescent bulb with a disclaimer to use a 13 Watt bulb instead when using a CFL replacement. Do I really need to respect that disclaimer? Would not a 23 Watt CFL be just as safe to use? It still draws less power than a 60 Watt incandescent, right?


texts: Can an illuminated switch be made to work with LED bulbs?

texts:
I have an illuminated switch (made by Viko, a Panasonic brand).

The switch controls a fan with a LED bulb.  The bulb flickers when it is off and the switch is off: video

To avoid this, I have to turn off the bulb using its pull cord on the fan itself.

I realize that the switch cannot be used with LED bulbs.  But is there any way to make it function correctly?  (I.e. by adding a resistor to it, or some other, but safe way.)


texts: How to prepare for a home service call from my DSL provider?

texts:
My DSL internet connection has been very unreliable and slow recently.  I called my service provider this morning and they told me that they will be sending someone to my home this weekend to fix it.

They told me that he would be inspecting the hardware between my home and their office, and if no problem is found there, they said that he will be checking the wiring inside my house.  In the case that the problem is found in the home, I'm told that I'm looking at a minimum 85 USD charge.

I would like to know how to make the most of this service call.

Is there anything I should be checking in my home or researching prior to the service call?  Are there certain questions I should be asking or certain information I should provide to the technician to have the best chance of getting this fixed?

Let me provide some more details about the problem I'm trying to solve.

My home is a two-story house with a basement in the suburbs of Denver, Colorado, USA.  I've had no trouble with any of the utilities since moving in about 40 days ago.  I am paying for 20 Mbps service from Century Link.

A few weeks ago, I had a similar problem.  The technician told me that his computer indicated that my modem didn't have a good connection.  The problem seemed to be fixed when we tried connecting the modem to a different phone jack.  However, the problem came back today.  They said that they were going to do something on their end, but whatever they did actually made it worse!


texts: How do I remove this recessed light bulb?

texts:
This is a small recessed light in my new house (still figuring out all the nuances of it). How do I get the bulb out of this recessed fixture in order to replace it?

It looks like there is some holder around the outside, but not sure how it works.


texts: Can an AC condenser be wired inside the wall, underneath siding?

texts:
The label on the disconnect box says this is a 60amp, 240v system (box might be oversized for this unit, it's old and a 2 ton I think, I doubt that it's truly 60A). I know that I need 6awg for it, and the wiring currently is in metal conduit on the outside of the wall. The run itself is only about 15ft (plus or minus a few inches) to the main electrical panel.

[edit] The AC unit is an UAKA-030JAZ, and the label lists itself as says that it is minimum 19/19 (not sure what the double number means, honestly) ampacity. Looks like this is a 2.5ton. I'd expect if/when it needs replaced to be replaced with a larger unit. I don't think any of the new homes of this size built around here are less than 3.5ton.

I will have opportunity to put this in-wall when I repair some of the siding at some point this summer.

Does the code (US, Texas) allow for in-wall wiring for the condenser? Does it have to be in conduit, if in the wall? What wiring do I need to purchase for this?

[edit] Is there any reason not to go with a heavier gauge wire, considering that the cost is minimal, it possibly future-proofs, and I might need to drill slightly larger holes? Both Home Depot and Lowes offer 15ft and 25ft sections of NM 8/3 and NM 6/3, not to mention the many places on the internet that I can apparently order this.

[edit] Adding a photograph of the label on the main wiring panel, as requested.


texts:
I am installing a 100 AMP transfer switch to my 200 AMP meter service on my house.  The transfer switch is a 100 AMP breaker type with a lockable guard on the switch itself.  Is #3 on 2 hots and #5 on ground wire what I need for the 10' long connection cord?

I am purchasing a 17,500E - 17,000 Watt (26,250 surge watts) Electric Start Generac gasoline portable generator.  Will this generator handle 100 AMPS?


texts: How can I add a second light switch to a 3 gang box with 3 switches in it?

texts:
I want to add a switch to an existing light in the car port so it can be switched on and off at both ends of the car port.

The existing switch to this light is in a 3 gang box connected to two switches for other lights. There is not much room in the box.

Thanks


texts: How can I reduce RF interference from LED light tubes?

texts: ? I picked up a dozen 3 bulb fixtures at the local habitat and installed them in my shop . Since the fixtures had no tubes I installed Sylvania Substitube LEDs . The lights work great , instant on and plenty of light . Only problem is , I have zero radio reception with the lights on . I have put ferrite filters on everything to no avail . My question is , can I eliminate the ballasts , possibly replacing them with LED Drivers ? Would that cure my woes? shop radio is a must have and I don't want to go incandescent.


texts: What is the cheapest/laziest way to touch up discolored hardwood?

texts:
I rent, so the amount of money and labor I am looking to invest in my floors is small. That said, there are a number of spots where the hardwood has a sort of "dead" look that I wouldn't mind touching up if there is a straightforward way to improve the situation. The floors don't have to look new (clearly that is not going to happen), but maybe these spots can be less visible than they are now. Is there a relatively simple approach?
Related question: even the parts of the floor that aren't discolored are pretty beat up. Any recommended products for just improving the overall shine and appearance?


texts: How can I repair a towel bar with one end ripped out of the wall?

texts:
I'm in desperate need of assistance. I'm a tenant living in a rented apartment and one end of the towel bar just fell out of its socket!

Can anyone tell me how, if possible, I can fix it myself without telling my landlord? Or in the worst case scenario that I have to call someone, can you tell me who I should call?

I'm sorry but I'm new to all of this so I don't even know who to call to come fix it if I can't fix it myself. You are supposed to call an electrician for electrical stuff and a plumber for your plumbing but who should you call for something like this? Any help would be truly appreciated.

If it is possible to fix it myself, could you help by giving me detailed instructions on how to do so including any materials I might need to buy. I've attached pictures since I don't know how to describe it like what screws it uses and such.

Click any photo for full size


texts: How do you access under a front loading washing machine drum to remove a trapped coin?

texts:
We had a coin trapped under our front loading washing machine drum (found out after it was removed).

The washing machine engineer got it out by prising the lip of the inside of the drum upwards, pulled out the coin, then bashed the edge of the drum back down with a metal wrench. This has now left the drum dented and the enamel scratched. I am currently in the process of complaining and getting the damage caused rectified.

Was this the only way he could've removed the coin? The scratches are now going to cause rust and potentially rip delicate clothing. It looks horrible too. See picture below.

Secondly, what is the best way to fix the damage that has now been caused? Can it be repaired or is a new drum/machine required?


texts: Unable to remove single lever shower handle

texts: I'm trying to adjust the temperature monitor to make my shower hotter.  I have a stubborn 11 year old single lever shower handle made by Pioneer that I'm unable to remove, although I've taken the hex screw out.  I've applied WD-40 and a penetrante to lubricate it and also have placed a hot hair drier on it for a long period of time, then I pull but it won't come off.  The handle feels loose but also like there is something holding it in place?  Is there any help out there?


texts:
I'm trying to determine the type of hardwood flooring i have here.   The pictures below show the edge-on and side-on views.
Is this real hardwood (looks like not), engineered,  laminate,  or something else?


texts:
I have a light fixture in my bedroom with three 60 watt LEDs in it. I can hear a loud hissing noise coming from each light. I'm almost positive it's because there is just too much power flowing into the lights. How do I reduce the power running into the light bulbs?

A few side notes:

The switch its connected to is a brand new Lutron dimmer, specifically made for leds.
There use to be a ceiling fan where the light ballast is, which is possibly why there's way to much power running to it for just three 60 watt bulbs.


texts: How can I trim out the gap along a new exterior door with a smaller rough opening?

texts:
I received a new prehung front entry door with right and left sidelights as a gift to replace my extremely aged and poorly installed current front door. The problem is that the new door width is approximately 4.5 inches too narrow to fit into current rough opening. (Actual door is still 36", but sidelights are both a tiny bit narrower, accounting for the size difference). Reframing rough opening can be done easily to account for the newer smaller door width. HOWEVER...

My concern and question to everyone deals with the outside and the siding not covering this new gap of 2.25 inches on each side due that I will create if I reframe a new rough opening to accommodate the narrower width of the new door. Current siding is very old, aluminum, and aged, so matching up siding would probably not be easy, ideal, or possible.

Does anyone have any clever ideas or thoughts on what I can do to accommodate this narrower door with a nice, successful looking door installation? Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for taking the time to read my post.

Thanks,
D


texts: Should a skirt board on a stair case be installed over the treads?

texts:
I am working on a project to replace my stair treads. The current treads show an ugly gap between the end of the tread and the existing skirt board. The current skirt board was installed before the treads, so the treads butt up against the skirt board. The current stairs had carpet on them so the gap didn't matter.

I want to put new treads on these stairs which are finished wood so that there is no visible gap between the end of the stair tread and the wall or skirt board. Can I meet this goal by installing the skirt board over the installed stair treads?

Should the skirt board or the stairs be installed first? Is the skirt board supposed to cover the gap between the tread and the wall?


texts: How can I trace wires from a ceiling box to find the power source?

texts: I have a dead wire in ceiling box. I've looked at all boxes in walls around the area and found no problems. Breakers are good. How can I trace that wire and find where it is tied into? I don't have attic access at all so that is my problem.


texts: Removing/cutting beam beneath half-landing stairs

texts:
I have half-landing stairs which go up 7 steps, around a flat bit, then up another 7 steps. The second portion of the steps is at the back of one of the downstairs rooms, and is currently boxed-in, with storage below. We are hoping to open up the full area beneath the stairs to install a downstairs WC, however there is a pretty substantial timber (~150 x 60 mm) running across the bottom of the boxed-in section.

Any ideas if it would be alright to cut this timber to place a doorway to a WC?

At the moment all I’ve done is chiselled away some plasterboard to see what is going on.

Cheers,
Dave


texts:
What is the name of the hardware used to build this dinner console table?
If you are aware of a similar design I would really appreciate some links. I am looking for a dinner table that has to be "almost invisible" when not in use.


texts: I have a 20 amp circuit running in my barn.  I wish to hook 3 or 4 fluorescent lights to the circuit if i can.  Each of the lights has a much smaller wire to connect to.  Can i put in a junction box and use a wire nut to connect the lights to the 12 guage wire and still use a 20 amp circuit breaker?


texts: Good way to hide drywall seam with painted drywall?

texts:
I have two pieces of painted drywall backed with a 2x2 piece of wood, covered with an oak board, as shown in the attached picture.

The drywall seam exists because my main water shutoff is behind this area and I wanted to maintain easy access to the area. Is there a way I can hold the drywall seam in place (not taping, mudding and standing) that will hold the board in place without looking too terrible?

Thanks for any suggestions.


texts: How do I detect and repair faulty wiring?

texts:
Recently, during a storm, an outdoor spotlight was broken in its socket, its internal wiring shorting out. The lights happen to be on a motion sensor, and in turn on switch, and a breaker at the panel.

Replacing the spotlight bulb, nothing worked, so I checked with a non-contact tester, no power in the socket. No breakers were tripped at the panel. So I pulled the switch; it looks like there is no power their, either! It seems like everything else that should have power does, but I haven't exhaustively checked every nearby outlet.

This is in Canada, and I know the house was just about entirely rewired ~10 years ago.

I'm at a loss how this is possible, but anyway. How can I find the fault?


texts: Should I replace a knob lock when replacing a matching deadbolt?

texts:
I've got three external doors with Callan knob lock and deadbolt sets. The deatbolts on two of the doors have failed due to a part on the inside that has deteriorated.

I was hoping to replace the deadbolts but keep my knob locks and keys. Is that advisable? Can a new deadbolt (different brand) bey keyed to match my old key and lock sets? Should I replace the knob locks when I replace the deadbolts and go with new keys?


texts: Is it okay to have Sparks inside drill machines?

texts:
I am seeing sparks inside my brand new drill machine. It is a 550 Watt Skil 6513 drill machine (not cordless).

Attached screenshot:

1) Sparks in red when I switched on

2) Here it sparks (in blue) throughout the process

I went through a few forum threads where people said sparks inside brushed drill machines are common, but all of them mentioned old drill machines and I am unsure about having sparks in a brand new machine. Could anyone clarify?


texts: Can I replace hydronic water boiler return pipes with pex?

texts:
My house was built in the 1920s, the heating source was a hot water/radiator system. Originally the basement was probably used only for a coal furnace (we have the drop-off door that the coal guy used to deliver through). We are looking at putting the basement to use and one of the major issues is the presence of 2" pipes for supply and return to/from the now-gas furnace. The supply and the return are not the same pipe. These pipes drop down from the ceiling and slope towards the furnace. Because these pipes aren't running through the joist bays and because of their downward slope, they can be as low as 6' from the basement floor surface.

The pipes are probably steel or cast iron (they're really thick, so unlikely to be copper).

I'm wondering if anyone has replaced their basement hydronic piping with something like PEX, and if so what was the required slope back to the boiler?

Edit: Based on comments from @SteveSh the slope was probably due to this system being steam originally. It must have been retrofitted a while back to use hot water instead. The slope is now not as important, but I'm still interested in hearing if people have replaced their hot water pipes with PEX. Any challenges that come up with that type of work?


texts: Can 250V mains damage my 100-240V devices?

texts:
Until today, I thought the European electricity network was 230 ± 6%. I measured my supply as 250V, which surprised me as that's 6V above 244V.

I checked, and the specification is actually 230 +10% / -6% (so my supply is below the 253V maximum).

However, many of my devices (Laptop Charger, iMac, Phone charger, etc) have a range of 100-240V written on the transformer.

Is any damage to these devices possible?


texts: What do you do with left over caulk in a tube?

texts: What do you do with the caulk when you don't need it all? Do you throw it away or can you cover it and store it?


texts: How to install level wood header under sloping garage door opening

texts:
I am wood framing concrete garage door opening described with pictures in this question.

Top concrete header is about 2" inches out of level across 9' opening length. I want to install 2x8 PT header under it and make it level. So I will have 2" gap on one side. What is the best way to do it? I am thinking of just cutting short piece of this 2x8 and using it as a shim in the right place in the gap. Will it work? Does it make any sense to fill the rest of the void with something like cement patch?


texts: New Whirlpool washing machine has locked door and non responsive buttons

texts:
I just installed a brand new Whirlpool front loading washing machine, Model number W10656476A. We put in our first load, pressed start, and realized we forgot to turn on the water supply lines.  We cleared the low water supply faults, but now the machine just makes a humming noise like a motor is running whenever it is plugged in, but not doing anything. The doors are locked and the buttons are non responsive.

What should I be doing?

Also, what size bit driver do I need to take the screws off of this thing to make sure the drain pump isn't clogged?


texts: I'm using pressure treated, ground contact lumber like this one bought from Home Depot for an outdoor project in my backyard. Parts of the lumber are buried underground, and some of the buried ends are cut by me before burial. I don't apply any sealants on top of the pressure treatment. I called Home Depot to confirm that burying even after cut is OK, and they said it is, and that it's expected to last 25 years. When I look online (at blogs etc.) to confirm though, I see that some people recommend at least 0.40 lb./cu.ft.chemical retention. The Home Depot lumber I use has only 0.15 lb./cu.ft. Is the discrepancy because Home Depot uses some superior chemicals that requires less lb./cu.ft.? Can anyone confirm from experience that such department store lumber lasts as long as they claim?


texts: Should we vent our attic for new polyurethane closed-cell spray foam insulation?

texts:
We already installed Quadfoam 2.0, a "two-component, 2 lb., closed cell, spray applied, rigid polyurethane foam system" under the roof of our house, between the rafters.  We read the manufacturers product safety documentation and it appears that the final product is safe, although the individual components have issues.  We did not notice any respiratory symptoms spending time at the house, and by visual inspection the material appears to have been installed correctly. On the other hand, the EPA assessment of the material is not completely reassuring, because they say that, "The potential for off-gassing of volatile chemicals from spray polyurethane foam is not fully understood and is an area where more research is needed." (see http://www.epa.gov/saferchoice/potential-chemical-exposures-spray-polyurethane-foam#long-term). There is also a scary post on Treehugger.com about people ruining their houses. http://www.treehugger.com/green-architecture/losing-their-health-and-homes-spray-polyurthane-foam.html

If we had done this research before installing the product we probably would have used another material, but now that it is in place we are wondering

Is it fine to keep the insulation in place, and perhaps install some attic venting so that if any minor off-gassing does occur it will not make its way into the living areas of the home?
If we want to get rid of it, can we just scrape it off the rafters and roof sheathing and replace the ducts and wires that it is sprayed to, or will this leave a residue of possible toxins, so that the only solution is to replace the entire roof?

A couple of years later...Just want to put some information up here in case other people have doubts about the product. We had the house tested by an environmental consultant and they convinced us that there was Zero off-gassing from the foam. And the house is insulated amazingly well. So I would say that it was a good product and would recommend it. The caveat is that if it is improperly installed it can really be a mess, because there are truly nasty chemicals present in the two components that are sprayed separately to create the final product. If the intended reaction does not occur between the two components when they are sprayed into your house there can be off-gassing which could make the house uninhabitable. I think that this very rarely happens, but make sure that your installer really knows what they are doing, because the risk is there! Also, make sure that you stay out of the house when the foam is curing, because otherwise you could develop a sensitivity to the chemicals that are present which would exacerbate any problems due to off-gassing. This is a danger for installers more than homeowners.
A couple of other points: The insulation is so effective that in California, if you spray the underside of your roof then the attic is considered "conditioned space", so it would not be vented like a normal attic, and it would also not be separated from the rest of the house by any kind of vapor barrier. Also, my idea of scraping the finished spray foam out is Impractical and not a solution if there is off-gassing. Whenever you mess with the spray foam you are exposing uncured areas and so if there's a problem with off-gassing it would make it worse.


texts: Stain-grade wood repair for door mullion?

texts:
One of our dogs apparently had a teething problem while we were out working in the garden, and decided to work it out on the wooden door's mullion. The mullion has been rather decreased in the process. I have no problem sanding it back down to shape, then sanding the entire door down and refinishing it; I'd planned to anyway. The problem is that I need to fill these gaps and restore the contours first, and it needs to be more durable than your standard Elmers or Minwax wood filler, which I feel will just flake off.

Painting is probably not an option as we're renting (I'd just use bondo if it was an option) and the landlord was proud of the (horrible) refinishing job she'd done on the door recently.

I've attached two photos to show the damage. They don't show it well -- what you should know is that there's probably at least 1/8" of wood removed in some areas, especially the bottom right of the first image.


texts: Can I move the main breaker box to inside a small bathroom?

texts:
This is very similar to the "electric box over sump" question.

I'm finishing the basement, which includes upgrading the breaker box and moving it to a more suiting location.

I would really like to move it inside a small bathroom I am building underneath the basement steps (box would be moved about 10 feet splicing the 4/0 cable).

The box would be embedded in the 2x4 walls I'm putting up against the basement block, and above a macerating toilet.  I can make sure the toilet water supply and waste are outside the "protected" spaces of the box.

I guess the other concern is if the toilet is a work obstruction.  It has no water closet, just the bowl.  I kind of chuckle because the toilet lid would make a great place to set your tools if you do have to swap out a breaker or something.  The toilet could actually be unbolted and lifted out if needed for projects that might require better access to the box.

I know codes vary.  Is there a general rule for this?  It seems very often boxes are put over sumps and I believe this to be less of an issue.


texts: How to remove this broken latch and handles?

texts:
I am trying to remove this door handle and latch, but I cannot figure out how to. I have removed all the screws, and I think the thing still holding it in place is the lock.

The lock appears to have one side that should screw off, but it doesn't budge. There is little purchase on the lock "screw", though I managed to get some with a 50 pence piece and some pliers - the 50p broke.

What now?


texts: Trying to change out a ceiling fan need help... 5 wires

texts: I'm in an old house. I removed and replaced 2 out of 3 with no problem. I get to the third and there are 5 wires: 2 black, 2 white/cream, and one bare copper wire. I think I have it hooked up right but the breaker flips when I turn power on. What am I doing wrong?


texts: How can I extract broken off shutter-lok fasteners from brick?

texts:
I'm in the process of replacing vinyl shutters on my brick-front home.  I'm replacing the existing ones with identical sized new ones that will use the same drilled holes.  The problem I'm having is that when I take off the old shutters the old shutter-lok fasteners often break off with nothing to grab on to.  At ground level I have been able to drill them out by pressing with all my body weight while drilling.  I can't do this for the higher ones since I have to be on a ladder.  Is there a effective tool I can use to extract these plastic fasteners from the pre-drilled holes in the brick without applying significant force?

Note: I have tried using smaller drill bits to break it up first with limited success.  I have also tried a reverse-thread screw extraction bit that didn't help at all.


texts: This used to be fine without the flexible adapter, I had a rigid gutter to pipe adapter in the past. The ground below must have pushed the pipe around over time. The fitting was barely working for the last year and more recently not working at all. I bought a flexible adapter today and it is really straining to fit. Is there a better solution? I could not find flexible pipe to pipe connectors for this job.


texts: Will low well water pH cause plumbing damage or health problems?

texts:
Our well has been having some bacteria issues so we are installing a UV filter system. The installer also recommended a system to correct the acidic quality of our water which is PH 6.0. He said it can corrode pipes and its not healthy to consume copper. My questions are

-The house is from 1974 and mostly used for weekends. Am I really in danger of pipes leaking in the next 10-20 years from this level?

-Is there any health risk to this level?

Really just trying to figure out if I being upsold or this is a valid concern. Most of the info on the web is from companies that sell water filtration products so I don’t know how objective they are.


texts:
What's the best way to even out areas of concrete patio where rain water collects into 2 large puddles? It also sits right up some against pool decking.

A crack has also formed which I tried to patch with concrete caulking.

I have been trying to find the right solution and don't really understand if I should use a self-leveling product or if it needs to be done in thin layers.


texts:
My unit is on the ground floor, I am thinking to combine kitchen and living room to create an open kitchen and renovate original kitchen to a bathroom/Laundry. I know it sounds crazy and probably insanely costly, just curious if it is possible?
 In terms of plumbing/electrical works, what should I do to make sure it is doable?

Below is the floor plan:


texts:
So I'm laying vinyl in a bathroom which is currently just floorboarded. From my research, I understand that I should screw down 5.5mm exterior grade plyboard (exterior grade because of the water) before laying the vinyl which is fine.
My problem lies in actually sourcing this exterior plywood. My understanding is that what makes exterior grade plywood exterior grade is the waterproof glue used between the layers. Yet upon googling, most of the links I am seeing don't mention anything about the glue used, and further state that to be used externally the plywood must be sealed! Seeing this I can't help but think i could buy bog standard plywood and seal it myself to the same effect. So my question is:
Is there anything specific i should be looking for (i.e some standard, or something else)? I've seen the standard EN636-2 thrown around a lot. Ideally the ply should be as cheap as possible, seeing as it won't be visible anyway (will be under the vinyl).
Or can I buy general purpose plywood, and seal it to the same effect?


texts: Water has been turned off for over a year

texts:
I'm looking at a house today that has had the water shut off for 2 years. Should I be concerned about this? What kind of damages could it have caused overtime, if any?

Thank you!


texts: Using tool at home made to work in cigarette socket?

texts:
I have a tool that only works by connecting its "plug" to my car cigarette lighter socket.

How can I use this tool at home? Is there an adapter that will let me use it somewhere else?


texts: can I laminate hardwood boards to plywood to make a thicker looking board.  I am making a table top and the only boards I have available are 5/8".  I would like to make it 1 1/4" if possible.


texts: If flame sensor will affect Motor assembly's functionality of furnace? How does that work?

texts:
I have two Air conditioning company. A is the self-hired for my A/C, and B is assigned by home warranty company.

This summer, the technician with A came out for an annual maintenance on both A/C and Furnace. He stated on the report: "FOUND CRACK IN INDUCER MOTOR HOUSING. MOTOR ASSEMBLY SHOULD BE REPLACED BEFORE
FURNACE IS STARTED TO AVOID POSSIBLE CO POISIONING."

Then, I contacted B check out the furnace couple days ago. The technician with B stated "No worry, you will be easily smell it if there is any CO or gas leak. I don't smell anything. Flame sensor is too dirty that's what cause the issue "

But I am confused... what does that to do with the Motor assembly... and how does motor assembly work?


texts: Issues with removing a cartridge from a faucet

texts:
I have a leaky faucet problem and I am trying to replace the cartridge from the hot side that is causing it, but when I unscrewed the handle, I find that the cartridge is firmly put into it and I've tried using a wrench to unscrew it, but it's not working.
I am not sure where to go from here and what to do to. It doesn't appear to me that there is any nut in there that I could remove.
Any help would be appreciated it.
Thank you so much.
Here is a picture:

https://imgur.com/a/nMp6tfu


texts: Gas fireplace is making a very loud popping noise about three times

texts: We had a gas leak repair done and the gas was shut off in the entire house to check all the lines last week.  Now there have been three times that our fireplace has made three very loud popping noises when it’s not even turned on!  Is there any correlation between the popping sounds and the gas being turned on and off?Would appreciate your input!


texts:
Are Gemini Harmonie tiles and Gemini Ceramic Pool tiles safe to use for an outdoor mosaic?
I can't find much information about them online.


texts: What is required to fix this plastered drywall ceiling?

texts:
A tree hit our house and made one of the trusses fall somewhat. The structural repairs have been made but I am uncertain how to best repair the drywall ceiling. Originally it was a popcorn ceiling but we had it scraped and skimmed with plaster. Do I use drywall tape and joint compound over the plaster to repair the cracks?
Or could I just plaster over the areas that need repair?
Or should I chip off the plaster, perform drywall repair with tape and joint compound, then re-plaster?

As you can see, I still need to do some fill in work with the drywall. This picture was just to show the lines where the tape or plaster would need to go.

This picture is an example of how much plaster was used over the drywall.


texts: Using Only 3 out of 4 wires on 220 wire run

texts:
I have equipment that has 3 wires (red, black, green)
The wire run from the breaker box is 10-3 (red, black, green, white)
The equipment requires 220/240v.
I'm just wondering if it's OK to leave the white wire capped off at the outlet?
Basically I have a red & black hot tied to the red and black (respectively) and ground to ground. The white (which is tied to the ground in the circuit breaker box) is just capped off by itself at the equipment.
Is this good, or should I cut the white off in the breaker box which would essentially make my 10-3 run of wire a 10-2?


texts: Just moved into a new house and the spigot the in backyard is too big for the hose I bought. Is there an adapter or a special hose that can fit this?