texts: Furnace can’t keep up when set to ON but keeps up fine on AUTO. Is this normal?

texts:
I’m in a pretty cold state. It’s been below zero F quite often this winter. My furnace has not been keeping up and my house has gotten pretty cold. I got some space heaters to supplement.

Furnace is about eight years old.

But I started to think that I’ve never had this problem in past winters. Maybe furnace needs a tune up? I always keep a clean filter and air volume from vents was fine. All gas jet thingies were fired up and looked fine.

So I started thinking that this past summer I switched my system to always ON because I thought maybe constantly circulating the AC on the house would keep the temp low with less energy. Plus I didn’t like the system turning on and off when I was trying to fall asleep.

This is a 100 year old house with no insulation. I retrofit the central AC and heat in 8 years ago.

So I’m trying to figure out why the heat won’t keep up and I decide to switch the system to Auto. We had a really cold night and it kept up just fine. The house is hot now!

Is this normal? If not is it indicative of a problem?


texts: Remove greasy material from wooden frame

texts:
There is a wooden frame in my kitchen and due to cooking/heating the wooden frame right above my burner is become greasy.

how i remove that greasy material from wooden frame, as i tried to remove it from water with no luck.


texts: Which Neutral for a Single Pole Leviton Dimmer?

texts:
See picture to help understand situation.

I am trying to install a Leviton Decore Smart WI-FI dimmer ina single pole application.

The box I’m working on has an existing 3-way switch working fine. There are three holes in the top which all have ground, neutral and black wires coming from. There are two holes in the bottom, one with black/white wire, and another with white/Black/red (for the 3-way).

The switch I’m replacing has it’s hot black wire coming from a wire nut joined with two other black wires and a white wire.

There’s another wire nut with the remaining four neutrals tied together.

I’m tryinf to figure out which neutral I should tie into the single pole switch I’m installing (it requires one). I tried tying all four neutrals into the switch and that didn’t work. It gave power to the switch but I couldn’t factory reset switch or operate lights, they would sometimes flicker when I activated the air gap.

Any ideas? Thank you!!!


texts: Can I build a 28" retaining wall using blocks with no lip?

texts: I am building a wall that is 10.5' long and 28" high. There will also be side walls sloping down from both corners to enclose a patio. I would like to use blocks that are 15" wide, 5" tall and 8" deep, but there is no lip and it is concerning.  There is about 6' of soil between my house and where the gravel backfill would begin and there is a very slight slope.  Would construction adhesive between the blocks be sufficient for support along with the proper backfill and drainage?


texts: Why does my oil furnace keep triping reset after 10 sec of running i have to have thermostat all way up for it to run i changed primary control box, nozzel, electrodes and thermostat any ideas


texts: Having trouble removing tap aerator/regulator

texts:
How do I remove my bath mixer tap regulator? Its quite thin compared to all the videos and photos ive seen of people removing theirs. I bought new female+male aerators but struggling to remove it from the bath tap. Im not sure because its rusted or what but it doesnt budge.
I know its rusty and I wanted to remove the entire mixer tap but cant due to plumbing issues.


texts: Rigid board installed after framing in Interior Basement Walls - Should I be concerned about trapped moisture?

texts:
I am helping my brother-in-law finish his basement. I noticed the framing was done first then the insulation was added after.

It looks like rigid foam board was pressed up against the concrete wall and added in between the studs. My primary concern is I am noticing a small pocket between each stud on the wall.

I am adding two images Below. See Both Images for a better example of what I am trying to explain:

My Conerns
- Will this pocket be a serious cause for moisture build up? Is rigid foam board up against the foundation wall a bad practice on a finished basement?

Other Notes
- We are in Climate Zone 4. His basement has a Radon Mitigation unit (if that remotely helps with humidity below the foundation?). His basement does get moist at times but nothing to crazy. He is using mineral wool insulation.


texts:
The wall contains metal studs 24 inch apart.  On a previous TV, I installed an articulating TV mount (80lbs total with mount) on two metal studs with 4 snap toggles (that's 2 snap toggles per metal stud)  The snap toggles are suppose to support up to 80lbs each.  So i'm guessing with 4 snap toggles that equates to 4 x 80 = 320lbs distributed among two metal studs.  However, my TV and mount is only 80lbs, so I thought that would be fine and haven't had any issues yet.

The question is:

I haven't really used the articulating full motion aspect of the mount yet. It seems pretty sturdy, but I've never dealt with metal stud before as support.  Should I be afraid that If i move it around that it could rip out of the wall?

So I have another TV that I need to mount. With the dimensions of the room, it looks like I can only use one metal stud.  The TV is also lighter, so with the mount it'll be around 70lbs for a 43 inch LCD and the mount will be an articulating (ex. http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-ML531BE-Monitor-Articulating-Extension/dp/B000WYVBR0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1458420321&sr=1-1) which is meant to be mounted only on one stud as well.

The question is:

Can I mount the TV (70lbs) attached to one metal stud with two snap toggles rated at 80lbs each?

Any advice appreciated!
Thanks,
D


texts: Is there a specific NEC code specifying the distance between water heaters and electrical panels?

texts:
I have a condo in a large building with many identical units.  Several times other owners have mentioned that the original layout of the utility room isn't up to code due to the proximity of the water heater to the electrical panel--it comes up during sales inspections and some owners have spent quite a lot of money to relocate the panel.

In my research I haven't been able to find any such code; the nearest I can find is 110.26(A)(2) which dictates the free space around the panel.

  NEC 110.26(A)(2) Width of Working Space.

  The width of the working
  space in front of the electric equipment shall be the width of the
  equipment or 750 mm (30 in.), whichever is greater. In all cases, the
  work space shall permit at least a 90 degree opening of equipment
  doors or hinged panels.

By that standard the design is up to code, the water heater is just far enough to the side to provide the needed working space.

Is there another code that is specific to the proximity of the water heater?


texts:
I'm currently working on tiling my bathroom but because of water damage the floor has distorted.

The subfloor is chipboard and is crowning up to 7mm.

How do I go about levelling the wooden floor before starting to tile?


texts: What size Wire and breaker for Mitsubishi Mini Split HVAC

texts:
I am running power for a Mitsubishi mini split
MSZ-GL12NA

https://hvacdirect.com/hvac/pdf/Mitsubishi-MSZ-GL12NA-U1-Installation-Manual.pdf

It says max 15amp  min 14AWG.  I will be running the romex wire about 90 feet from power panel in attic to the unit in Arizona heat.  Do I run a double pole 15 amp breaker or double 20?  Do I use 14awg wire or 12awg wire?  Should I run 3 conductors or 4? Hot Hot Ground Neutral, or just Hot Hot Ground?
Thank you in advance for any help.
Thank you,
Pete


texts: I have a corner in a shower location that butts up against one exterior wall of the house, and as you can see there it is enclosed yet there is no insulation in there. What is the best way to insulate this corner? I have yet to find a good consensus on the internet. Thank you!


texts: Why does my Central A/C Keeps Blowing its Fuse?

texts:
For years, my A/C condensing unit has blown a fuse once, maybe twice a year.  It's 27 years old now and blew a few fuses last spring.  Now it blows a fuse every few days.  So, I replaced a bad running capacitor on the compressor and replaced a leaking capacitor on the condenser fan motor, still blows fuses every few days.  Dangdest thing is that it has a very respectable amperage reading - 20 amps on each leg (it's 220v) even when it's very hot (105 degrees outside) and the fuse only blows in the evening when the temperature has gone down for the day! I thought that maybe it blew a fuse when cycling off and on, so, I tried just operating the A/C manually (turning it off when the inside temp was comfortable and on when I wanted some cooling) - still blows a fuse.

I now wonder if the problem is with the fuse box or power supply.  It is typical that after a day or two of replacing a fuse, the new fuse darkens - it still works, but can get quite dark.  A blown fuse will be really dark and the nice clean copper is pretty scorched.  I cleaned off the contacting surfaces of the fusebox and tightened the wires down.

I'm now suspicious of a possible occasional voltage drop in our power supply.  Wouldn't that spike the amps to my A/C unit and burn a fuse?  A few weeks ago the power company installed a box to monitor power quality right outside my house.  When I asked them what they were doing they informed me about monitoring the power and then asked me if I noticed lights flickering and so on.

I thought I might monitor voltage last night to see if I might catch a drop (wishful thinking I guess).  But anyway, just using a 120v receptacle, the volts were 120.0 volts to begin with, 118.8 volts when the A/C came on, went down to 117.4 volts, then ranged between those last two numbers 'till I turned the A/C off an hour later.  Then the reading was 120.9.  First thing in the morning, the voltage was 123.0 volts  So, there's quite a swing in voltage - I imagine that's normal, but I don't know.  I'm up a hill, at the end of the power line in a city area.

Here's the particulars of my A/C condenser - it's a 1985 Sears 3.5 ton (NCABA42AB01) - full load on condenser= 21.5 amps time delay fuse called for is 30 amps and that's the fuse I keep replacing.

Anybody have any ideas - poltergeist, maybe?

Update:  It just blew a fuse again - mid day this time.  I noticed that the fuse box was really hot - I measured it with an infrared thermometer - 220 degrees F!  The condenser unit was buzzing, only one fuse blew - the other looks fine.  I'm thinking I need to replace the fused disconnect.


texts: I'm remodelling my bathroom. The tub needs to be pushed back about 2in against the wall but an old pipe is in the way. I think it is no longer being used. But it's placement is confusing me. The pipe comes up from the basement drain lines. It goes straight up to the ceiling in the bathroom. In the bathroom the pipe branches to the wall behind the sink area but the pipe is caped off. A new pvc pipe drain has been put in to the floor for the sink. The confusing part is the pipe runs up into the ceiling and then disappears. There is no bathroom upstairs. And I can't imagine there has ever been a bathroom upstairs. So why would the pipe run up to the second floor. Also what can I do to move this pipe back a few inches? Can I cut the pipe and attach a softer flexible pipe at the point where l need it to go behind the edge of the tub? I'm scared to just cut the pipe out because I don't know what it's leading to upstairs.


texts: Should I install wood flooring under the closet door track?

texts: I want to install wood vinyl flooring in my bedroom. Do I remove the closet track and run the flooring under the track or stop it at the track.


texts: Will my horizontal fence sag with 10 foot boards?

texts: I'm building a fence with horizontal slats made from cedar with pine posts. The posts have dados cut into them and I'm planning to slide the slats down the dado and affix them to the post using a pocket screw jig with decking screws. The slats will be 10 feet long with a quarter inch spacing between each. What I want to know is if the slats are too long such that they will sag in the middle and what I should do to prevent this short of just making shorter fence panels. Thanks in advance.


texts:
So the other day I bought a cheap lamp. Plugged it in etc and the bulb blew straight away. After that my other lamp stopped working (which was plugged into the same socket).  Changed the lightbulbs etc in both, still not working. Checked my electrics in case anything had tripped and that’s all sorted. Changed the fuse in my old lamp (not the new cheap one as that is being returned). Still not working. Figured the cheap one has somehow destroyed my older one. Bought a brand new lamp today, will not work. Also spent loads of money on new lightbulbs. Not working. Tried other appliances in the same sockets and they work fine. If anyone can help me I would really appreciate it as I am at my wits end. Thanks in advance guys

Hi guys, thanks for already starting to help. We are in the UK and the electrics box, I just checked all the switches. In my old house, if a specific area tripped then that switch would go down and I’d just flick it back. This house though, that doesn’t happen. So I did it myself; flicked them off and then back up. Sorry, I really don’t know technical words at all –


texts: How do you hang something on sheetrock where there is a plastic stud?

texts: When hanging an L bracket, I ran a test drill to see if there was a stud.  I hit what I thought was the stud but it turns out to be a plastic stud.  How do I anchor through the sheetrock?  My screw will not pierce the plastic stud.


texts: Replacing a few boards in a hardwood floor: sanding and refinishing?

texts:
I'm replacing a half dozen board ends in a hardwood floor due to water and carpenter ant damage. Each is about 4-6" long. I have the old boards cut and removed, and in fact I can slide the new boards in from the ends, and so don't need to cut off the bottom of the groove edge of the boards. But, the floor was at one point sanded and refinished, so the new boards are about 1/32" proud of the main floor.

Should I sand down the new boards to the correct thickness before installation? Or, should I install them and then sand them in place? And the same question with polyurethaning the boards: before or after installation? (I'm worried that sanding or getting finish on the old boards will make the repair more visible.)


texts: Can p-trap be installed higher than drain entry?

texts:
I have p-trap entry in drain at 16" above the floor. However, vanity that I got has lower drawer which has top at about the same height. There is also about 4" clearance behind drawer.
I was told that the only way to install p-trap would be to cut back of the drawer.

So I wonder if it's really the case. Can't drain entry be just raised with some additional elbow so p-trap enters it 6" higher?
Any other options? Is it possible, for example, to install p-trap sideways so it fits into those 4" behind drawer?


texts:
How can I fill this gap in my diy shelves? I’ll be using wood screws to secure the shelf.
The gap’s less than 1/4”.
I was thinking of using pieces of wine cork to even the weight.


texts: Why is the defrost cycle of an HVAC so loud?

texts: During the colder months when defrost mode switches on it can run for roughly ten minutes to thaw out the unit.  I understand that.  My question is why is it so loud?  Why does it have to make such a loud noise to defrost the system?  Is it not possible to make a defrost cycle more silent?


texts: Wrapping fibreglass/ rock wool to seal in fibres in acoustic panels (bass traps)

texts:
I'm Making acoustic panels to treat my home studio and plan to use mineral wool or fibreglass insulation to do so. Likely Owen's Corning 703 or something marketed as safe insulation like Bradford Sound Soundscreen or Roxul Safe n' Sound. Regardless of how safe salespeople market these fibrous materials I still want to seal in this material, which leads to the questions:

What material can I wrap around the insulation in order to trap the fibrous particles in but still allow sound to pass?
Is there some kind of measurement that I should be looking for such as stitching density?

I can't find any data about the size of the particles for fibreglass or mineral wool. One company uses a material called Micromesh but provides no data about it:


texts: Why would only 1/3 of my registers be blowing warm air?

texts:
I have a Coleman gas furnace in a wall space in my house which somehow shares the blower on my a/c unit on the roof because it turns on when furnace is called to start, though it does bump up after a few minutes when the furnace ignites (which tells me it has its own blower motor) and both are controlled by a single thermostat and shuts off when satisfied.

My problem, only 1/3 of my house is getting warm air blowing through the registers other 2/3 is mild to cold air. All registers have adequate air flow. It causes our room to get very warm while others are cold. In the summer I had a Freon leak and they took the a/c unit somewhat apart to find it. Not sure if somehow they put it back together incorrectly and there lies my problem. I have yet to go in the attic or on the roof. Any suggestions or leads would be helpful.


texts:
For about two years now, two of my bathroom fans have not worked and I haven't gotten around to changing them. But I am wondering the best way to replace it. The current fan/light I have installed is round like this

but my new fan looks like

I don't have easy access to the attic. Just looking for some advice on how to attach the new fan and the best way to create the new sized opening for the new fan.


texts: Reverse osmosis drain with a single basin sink when there is garbage disposal?

texts:
The reverse osmosis installation instructions state

if you have garbage disposal then install the drain saddle before it

Unless I am misunderstanding what "before" (or after) means, it is unclear to me how I could ever install drain saddle before garbage disposal in my case as it looks like this:

Two questions:

Does it mean I have to install drain saddle in dishwasher hose? Obviously it would not work on the ribbed hose.
Alternatively, are there Reverse Osmosis faucets that would have two holes where second hole would simply drain directly in sink?


texts: Connecting LED strips lights under outdoor stairs

texts: Hey guys I'm looking to install LED strips lights underneath the  tread of our outdoor garden stairs. I have 5 rows of stairs and each row is 1.5wide. I will need to install 5x 1.5m led strip's under each tread. My question is what's the best way to connect these strips to a power supply, in series? Or run dedicated wires to each strip and connect multiple led strip's to one power supply? Is that even possible? 12v or 24v and I'd like to have a PIR as well. Thanks in advance for any solid advice to this complete novice!


texts: Can I branch a shower's water supply for laundry sink?

texts:
I'd like to add a laundry sink in, well, the laundry room. The way the room is set up, I can't branch the supply directly from the washer supply (the washer is placed in a corner on the right and the main waste stack is behind the dryer, to left of the corner-bound washer). There is, however, a shower on the back side of the wall from the desired sink location. Is there anything wrong with branching the supply from the shower (teeing it off and continuing a line down the wall)? I attempted to Google the answer, but didn't quite know how to phrase it, thus finding no answer about mandatory terminal locations of water supply lines (or if that was even a thing to begin with).

I can see a potential problem with dominance of hot water to two sources on the same line, but the hot water heater is just feet down the line. The shower is the first thing to get said hot water, so I don't imagine the few times the laundry sink and shower are in use at the same time being more of an issue then the kitchen sink and the shower who's-more-important problem which exists in every place I've ever lived.

I've got drainage sorted out - and really the supply as well - I just want to make sure that branching from what is currently terminal at the shower is a "thing".


texts: It is normal for glass-ceramic cooktop to be hot?

texts: I just bought a stove with glass-ceramic cooktop and I'm frustrated because when I use one hot plate the whole cooktop is hot (even the metal corpus around it). Is this normal or the cooktop must be cold except working hot plate?


texts: How do I dispose of the waste water after cleaning a brush or roller?

texts: After using latex paint and cleaning the brush/roller with soapy water, how do I dispose of the paint/water mixture?


texts: Does my light switch require a ground wire?

texts:
I'm trying to install a new light switch from a plastic one to a metal one.

I don't have a ground wire nor is the back box grounded.

Do I need to connect it to a ground?


texts: Can I manually run the blower on my Lennox G12Q3 furnace?

texts:
I have a Lennox G12Q3-120-6 model furnace.  Does anyone know if there's a way to manually run just the blower without heat?

There are no switches on the outside that I can see (other than the power cut-off), and the only 2 panels are only to be removed when servicing.

FYI - I want to be able to use my furnace blower to circulate air from my basement to my upstairs.


texts: How should I remove a wooden fence from a tree trunk?

texts:
I have a wooden fence that has been attached to a walnut tree trunk that was growing on the fence-line (wasn't my decision - was the builders).

That stump is now rotten and we would like to get it removed, but to do that we need to take the fence off the trunk. What is the best way to get this done, and if I go the road of paying someone to do this, what would be a reasonable rate to pay?


texts: How common is it for new homes to have gas-only dryer hookups?

texts:
I am relocating my dryer.  I had the gas line relocated and a dedicated circuit put in for the washer and dryer.  The original location had the option for an electric dryer.  We have a gas dryer and will probably never have an electric dryer due to the high cost of electricity in our area.  I am wondering if new houses typically have just one or the other or both.  It's relatively easy to run 35ft of 10/3, but I'd rather use the available breakers in the panel for something else.

Most people in my area have older homes and have both hookups, but I believe the only reason they have both is because the cost of electricity was on par with gas in the 70's

How common is it for new homes to have gas-only dryer hookups in areas where gas is cheaper than electricity?


texts: Where do the neutral and ground wires go for a 30 amp generator inlet?

texts: I am wiring a 30 amp generator inlet to my panel. I know the black and red will go into the breaker. I am not sure where to put the neutral and the ground. There are two buses in my panel that both have bare copper and white wires going into them. Some are even twisted together


texts: How to permanently remedy a patch of mold on a ceiling from a water leak above?

texts:
I recently discovered that water was dripping from the ceiling light fixture in a first floor bathroom. It turned it was due to a toilet leak (faulty wax ring) in a bathroom directly above.

The toilet leak has been fixed, and in fact there was no evidence of water in the upstairs bathroom at all - it must have leaked directly through the floor around the toilet flange/pipe.

I removed the light fixture in the downstairs bathroom that the water was dripping through and discovered a patch of mold. It's only the size of the fixture (about a foot in diameter) and aside from the visible mold there doesn't appear to be significant or visible water damage. The sheetrock is relatively hard and dry, all things considered. This bathroom is otherwise dry and in good shape - I had no idea this mold was lurking behind the fixture.

Here's an image:

Cleaning off the mold on the surface of the ceiling should be pretty simple. But is there anything else I must do to protect myself and my home as a result of this leak?

What about the space between the ceiling and the second floor? What I'm afraid of is what I can't see on the other side of that sheetrock but I don't know if that's something to be concerned with or not. Is it sufficient to clean away the mold, ensure the ceiling is dry and call it done?


texts: Mixing repellant with non-repellant termiticide - does that actually work?

texts:
So I had an exterminator that wanted to mix Demon Max and Termidor, which seems like a repellent and non-repellent termiticide.
Is that counter-productive since the repellent will just chase termites away from the Termidor?
What am I missing here?
The worst thing is I asked him not to do that and repeated the request 5 times to which he agreed every time - but then I caught him mixing the two in my ring camera.


texts: Multiple Occupancy Sensors to control hot water return pump

texts:
Can multiple occupancy sensors be used to control a domestic hot water return pump system?
A sensor in each of three bathroom locations wired parallel to start one common low wattage return pump.
A temperature switch would interrupt circuit when return water temp reaches 100 deg F.
Do the sensors need to steal power to run from a closed circuit? This closed circuit is not there in this case.


texts: Florida Building codes concerning T-Post Fences

texts:
I've got a vacant lot in Lake Placid Florida ( Highland county ) just north of lake Okeechobee.  The lot is not on a paved street and is a good mile from a paved street and houses.  It gets no mail or garbage service.  There are no power lines or water lines.  I camped on the lot for three nights and saw nobody drive or walk by while there.

It was a cheap lot and i don't want to spend any more money on it for a survey or permits. I have no plans to build. I'd like to install ( no concrete ) some 10 t-post well inside my lot lines and run some 12ga steel lines as perimeter to keep ATVs out and  help grow some vines and thorn hedges.

If I ask, the county might want a permit and subsequently a survey.  Do I need a permit ?  What could go wrong if i just do it ?

Ive read if you get caught the permit cost x 2, but is this even a permanent fence ?

What about barbed-wire lines and Liability issues ?


texts: Decorative hanging hooks into plaster and brick wall

texts:
I'm at a bit of a loss, but I feel like I can't surely be the only person with this issue. We have a number of keepsake / decorative items that need to be hung by a hook. An example is a surprisingly heavy ceramic wedding horseshoe with a ribbon to hang it.

Because the wall is old plaster and masonry I can't use nails or standard picture hooks. I've looked at normal decorative hooks but they all have small diameter and/or short threads which simply aren't going to screw neatly into any plugs.

So, what on Earth can I use? I'm sure I'm missing a simple and obvious solution. For hanging pictures I've been drilling a hole into the mortar, adding a plug and then fixing a screw to hang in the picture. This works fine where you can't see anything, but I'm looking for a more attractive solution.


texts: cover up flaking antique bronze plating on curtain rod

texts: We have metal curtain rods that are antique bronze colored and some of the plating is flaking off. Is there a way to cover up the flaking? I"m thinking maybe something like this? Or maybe some sort of spray paint? It needs to be somewhat tough because the when we open/close the curtains, the rings rub against the rod.


texts:
I have a deck that faces south and gets hit by the sun pretty hard, pictures here:

Aside from replacing the whole thing, which I don't want to do, I'm wondering what would be a good way to repair it. I have lumber to replace out the railings and some of the really bad boards but would I be able to use an orbital sander on the other boards to get them smooth, then apply one of those thick deck restore paints that would fill the cracks and pits in the boards?

There are also a few spots where the boards have swelled up, leaving little to no gap between them. Someone suggested taking a circular saw, setting it to a depth that would not cut joists below, then run that between the boards to get a gap back in there for water to drain through. I'd have to take the railings off to complete the cuts but is that even advisable?


texts: How can I wire an Insteon switch in this situation?

texts:
I've been installing Insteon switches around the house, and I've run into a bit of an issue. In our bedroom, we have a switch that controls the fan lights and recessed lights as well as single switches that control each separately.

After removing the switch and installing the switch like I thought it should go, and it not working, I started troubleshooting it. With the switch for the recessed lighting on the wires carrying the load changes. So I tried using both of those wires as the the ones carrying the load, I still couldn't get the lights to work. Below is a picture of the wires.


texts: Fence gate sagging. Post twisting. Any ideas on how to solve this?

texts:
I build a fence a few months ago in the winter and over time I have observed the post that holds my fence gate (5.5ft) started to twist. At the same time, the door when I installed it, it was straight, whereas now it has been settling. In fact, I have already cut some of the bottom pickets but it still is acting up.

Now I am not sure if I should cut the pickets anymore fearing that it may settle even more. I used for my gate this kit (https://www.lowes.com/pd/homax-easygate-15-7-10-in-steel-painted-gate-hardware-kit/1000194567?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--hdw--google--lia--145--gatehardware--1000194567-_-0&kpid&store_code=1631&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WRg72rTfg_y4xwj0HBrKFdjMqxdUz9VZHcobUtaoX6n1tTTJI_CWCgaAlItEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) so in theory I should not be seeing any sagging and honestly the frame looks square.

Has anyone had similar experience with this and how I can remedy the situation without needing to pull the post out and place a new one (since the issue may happen again if I am missing something). I don't mind the sagging too much as long as it is structurally okay but I mind if I see the door sagging even more.

enter image description here


texts:
Had a problem a few years ago with my blower motor. Tech who came to my home said he would save me money as it only needed to be oiled.
Worked fine for 5 years after that.
Recently I noticed that when the thermostat called for cooling sometimes the fan would not come on yet the AC outside would still be running and quickly would ice over.
Bought a new Dayton blower motor today...this one was recommended by a tech at Graingers.
New motor has a capacitor...old one did not.
Anyway..problem is when the thermostat calls for cooling the compressor runs...sometimes the motor makes 2 sounds like it’s trying to start over and over until I stop it...or doesn’t come on at all.
Any ideas from the experts as to what might be wrong and how to fix?


texts:
So I bought a house built in 1957. And all of a sudden after plugging a laptop into a bedroom on the other side of the house, all the overhead fixtures on the opposite side of the house stopped working.

So I went out and bought a new overhead took the old one down and was left with a mount which had a black wire and a white wire.

I figured it would be easy, I went out and bought a new fixture and hey! All I had was a black wire and a white wire. So I put them together and nothing happened.

I'll note that I used an electrical tester on both the switch which had roughly 110 going to it, turned it off tested the fixture had nothing going to it, turned it back on tested the fixture and there was the right amount of power there.

So I thought perhaps there was a ground wire I had missed or maybe the connections weren't tight or what have you and would I still couldn't get it to work.

But then accidentally I touched the white wire to the metal of the mount, one of the screws as a matter of fact and now it works perfectly.

This can't possibly be safe can it? The new fixture had a skinny copper ground while the old fixture had no ground wire coming from the ceiling nevertheless I hooked up the ground but with that hooked up it still didn't work.

So for my lite fixture to work I need to have black to black, white to metal mounting bracket and copper ground to wherever. Why is this happening? Is it going to burn my house down? What's the deal? Please and thank you


texts: How to enlarge a 4 in. vent hole on exterior wall

texts: My house is covered by sheet metal and I currently have a 4 in. vent hole from a previous air exchanger. I'm changing the air excahnger and require a 5 in. hole. So I basically have to make a hole though a sheet of metal and 4 in. wood through the house to enlarge the previous hole. It seems I can't do this with an hole saw. How can I do this on a busget and how profissional actually do this?


texts: Metal box grounding question GFCI outlet

texts:
What is this wire for? The picture shows a wire connected to the grounding screw and back to the outlet.  Is this commonly done to get a connection to the metal box? My outlet tester shows this outlet as wired correctly and grounded.
This is in the kitchen and I would like to swap the pictured outlet for a GFCI outlet. Can I still add a GFCI outlet without a grounding wire? The box is metal and is connected to a metal conduit in the back.


texts: How to tell whether metal junction box is properly grounded?

texts: I have a detached garage that is powered by a circuit breaker in the main house’s breaker box, which is properly grounded. The outlets in the garage have metal junction boxes, fed by metal conduit containing two wires (hot and neutral). There is almost no voltage difference between the neutral wire and the metal box; how can I tell if the box is truly grounded, and not just tied to a common wire somewhere inside the wall?


texts: Cleaning Mould Away & Inhibition of Future Mould Growth

texts:
I am an ordinary, non chemistry minded person. Never before have I had to deal with mould growth in a damp house. Now I do.
I had an idea regarding the efficacy of cleaning this mould off the walls in my bathroom and bedroom. A simple solution of sodium hydroxide in water. Will this work?
Furthermore, will the same solution, (a fresh solution though, not the same one used to initially clean the mould away) inhibit future mould growth?
If not, any ideas on what will inhibit future mould growth? Thank you.


texts: Two openings from inside basement to outside and not sure of the purpose

texts: My basement has two vents from inside to outside. Both are set in-between the main floor joists (see pic) and opens outside, with flaps that opens outwards. The ducts are outside the furnace room. I like to know the purpose of them. Also I'm in the process of remodeling the basement and like to know what to do with them or how to handle them?


texts: can i safely turn on my heat with my water not turned on in my house

texts: i just moved into a hous3e and my water wont be turned on until next week but its cold in my house. I was wondering is it safe to turn my heat on. i have radiator heaters and i think they run off water some kind of way.im con fused and need answers


texts: What are my options for laying concrete block around lolly columns?

texts: I have a project where a concrete wall has been poured with lolly columns embedded in it. I want to lay concrete block from the poured wall to the sill. What are my options for laying the concrete block around the columns?


texts: Sump Pump Trips GFCI Receptacle. Is a single, dedicated non-GFCI receptacle safe?

texts:
I recently replaced my sump pump in one of my two sump pits.   To comply with codes, I replaced the outlet with a GFCI type outlet.  Unfortunately, once I turn the power back on, the GFCI trips immediately.  I eventually gave up and put the single 20amp receptacle back and the pump is working fine.

I've done some searching online and couldn't seem to get a consistent answer.  Is this a sign that there is a fault with the pump?   Is the nature of a sump pump such that some current will leak to ground?   Ultimately, is it safe to use a single, dedicated receptacle in this application?  Finally, do local codes even account for this circumstance?


texts: LG LSC27910sb refrigerator freezer door water line broken

texts:
Water was leaking, found the line that runs through the freezer door to the dispenser was split.

I have read the service manual ( http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/138598-2.pdf ) and cannot find instructions to replace this line - or any part number. Any advice would be appreciated.


texts: Tailpipe of sink not aligning with P trap

texts:
The tailpipe of the sink is about 1" behind the P-trap.  It's also too long.  If I try to jury-rig it and force the connection, it throws everything off including the vanity top.

I can probably cut the tail pipe, but hope it's not necessary to cut the P-trap/drain because it's all pretty permanent.  I probably could cut above the P-trap if I really had to.

I've watched numerous YouTube videos and tried to make this work, but I cannot.  The male thread piece on top of the P-trap seems off, too, because every nut/connector is loose.  I bought a Snappy Trap assembly, thinking the smooth-sided flex pipe was what I needed but I can't make that work either.


texts:
I am a long-time user of Math SE but first time user here.

I have a small corner of my home turned into a studio where I do math tutoring via video conferencing. I have a big wall-mounted melamine panel served as my dry-erase whiteboard. Melamine panel works fine for my purpose and it costs only about $15 per 4'x 8'piece, but it gives out too much glare that lighting is always big issue. I am thinking about replacing it with a chalkboard. In the meantime I know these much about chalkboard:

(a) The best one is made of porcelain-on-steel, it is the one we usually see at school classroom. It's extremely durable (warrantied for 50 years,) makes good writing, erases cleaner but it is expensive.
(b) There are substitutes though, and the two that I know of are Masonite tempered hardboard and Dura-slate. They are non-magnetic, lighter and cheaper but won't last that long.
(c) Then there is special paint for chalkboard, but I ain't warm to the idea. First off, my wall is textured and I prefer method that does little harm to the wall. Secondly, I doubt hand-painting will produce smooth surface.
(d) Finally there is glass whiteboard, but it gives out same amount of glaring.

And here are my two questions:
(1) I think you can buy Masonite easily from Lowe's or HD. Do you know where to buy Duro-slate?
(2) Do you know of any other substitutes? I am not harboring any unrealistic expectation: As long as it is affordable, writes well with regular white chalk, erases easily with a regular eraser without having to resort to damped clothes each time, then I will be a happy camper.

Thank you for your time and help.


texts: How do I apply the same texture to the bathroom wall after patching a hole?

texts: My repair guy patched some holes with drywall mud on walls that had been painted with semi-gloss; we went eggshell. He then painted over the area after the mud was supposedly dry.  The area did not match the texture of the rest of the wall and it had tiny bubbles as well as the area looking scratchy from the spreading knife.  I could see these huge flat areas amongst the textured so I tried stippling the bumps back in with a kitchen sponge; maybe way too soon after painting.  I then tried to roller a coat over the area I did.  Now I have dull scratchy areas all over the area, but there is some texture.  What I need is a novice way to prep the walls so I can repaint and I will get a textured shiny wall like I thought I was going to get.  I would like this method to be a good one, but one that does not require expensive supplies or talents I do not have.  Help!


texts: How can I stop my basement from filling with water?

texts: I have my house in a sloped area ,it has  problems of water seeping inside the basement area which gets filled up to 1 to 2 feet height what may be the solution for this .... i have tried all water proofing things,need to get a solution.


texts: Dishwasher electrical connection up to code?

texts:
When I removed my dishwasher in order to level the floors and install new flooring, this is what I found:

It looks like the electrician just left the wire sticking out of a hole in the wall, but not enough, and then whoever installed the dishwasher pulled and ripped the wall until they got enough cord.

I live in Rock Hill, York County, SC. Is this up to code? How do I find out? Do I need to call an electrician? Can I fix it myself? Or should I leave it like it is?


texts: Hooking two washing machines up to one hot/cold water supply

texts:
I need a new washing machine and am leaning towards getting a stackable front loader (soon to be family of 6; it's just more efficient water/energy-wise), however, I also plan to cloth diaper my baby and know front loaders suck for washing diapers. I have a small apartment sized washer/dryer that I could use for the diapers but can't afford the new washer AND getting my laundry room plumbed with a second water supply. Is it possible to install some kind of valve that would allow me to switch between one laundry pair and the other? I realize I wouldn't be able to run them both at the same time (or would I...?) If I put two washer/dryers in my laundry room I wouldn't have room to just disconnect/reconnect the supplies, but I could probably get a hand back there to manipulate a valve...

Let's assume for now draining is not an issue...


texts:
I'm finishing my basement and I'm wondering how I should approach placement of the supply vents. I live in Minnesota so my primary consideration is to do what I can to make sure the space can be kept comfortably warm in the winter. From the research I've done, it sounds like ideally they should go near the windows and low. At the same time, I don't want to take a more difficult route if it's unlikely to have any noticeable benefit over an easier one. I figure I generally have 3 options in order of least to most effort:

Place the supply vents on the ceiling near the windows/exterior walls with returns on opposing   walls and placed low.
Place supply vents low on the walls adjacent to the exterior walls as close to the windows as possible.
Place the supply vents low on the exterior walls a couple of stud bays from the windows. I would have to cut the existing vapor barrier and remove some insulation to make room for the duct work.

My assumption is that 3 isn't a good route to take. But I'm unsure of whether placing the supply vents low on the walls will be enough of an improvement over having them in the ceilings to make it worth the extra effort.


texts: How do I install a bathroom exhaust fan?

texts: I need to know how to wire a bathroom fan with a light and night light. The wiring has a black/white red/white blue/white and green. The bathroom has a light switch for the light fixture over the sinks and a switch for the old fan that did not have any lights. I think I need a 3-way switch?


texts: Is exposed doorbell wiring in the garage dangerous?

texts:
When we bought our house 12 yrs ago, we learned during the walk through that the exposed  wires  in the garage were from the doorbell. He said to never touch the wires because we could get electrocuted. Is that true? Why would they leave it like this? And I believe he said I couldn't put  some kind of electrical box over it. Is that true also?

I tried to post a pic but I couldn't find a way to post it to my question.


texts: How to remove one step from a three step ladder?

texts:
I bought a three step ladder for some alternative use. However, I need to remove the first bottom step, but don’t really know where to start. Is there a smart way to remove it, except for just cutting the wires that hold it?

Here are some visuals:


texts: 10 gauge whip off disconnect box fed from 12/3 on 15 amp breaker for Mini Split?

texts:
I'm wanting to make sure my shopping list is correct for my mini split install.
The mini split, Senville SENA-09HF, uses a 12/3 wire and requires a 15 amp breaker. I'm planning to buy a non-fused disconnect box and an electrical whip, but 12 gauge whips seem to be uncommon.
Would I be safe to use a 10 gauge whip off of the disconnect box to the outdoor condenser unit?
I could feed my own 12/3 through the conduit but first wanted to know if there's even a need to. My intuition tells me this would be fine but this wouldn't be the first time it's failed me.


texts: Connecting a Leviton 3-Way Dimmer Switch to new 3-Way Circuit

texts:
I have wired a new 3-way circuit in a bunk-house exactly as shown in the following diagram, with wire types and colors matching those in the diagram 100%:

I have a 2-pack of Leviton 6674 Dimmers, which came with the following wiring instructions:

  https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/DI-000-06674-02A-X2.pdf

It is confusing me for the following reasons:

The instructions are written as though someone is replacing existing switches (referencing the screw-colors on the old switch) but since my circuit is new, I don't have that to reference.
The example circuit in the instructions doesn't match the one I've wired in the diagram above.
The wires coming out of the back are not colors that match the colors of the wiring. The switch has: - two red wires (one is tagged with red tape also), one black wire, and a green ground wire as follows:

Can anyone tell me in simple terms (keeping in mind I don't fully understand terms like "common", "line/load", etc), and specifically based on the exact wiring diagram above, how exactly I should connect the Leviton switches (i.e. which specific wires on the back of the switches should connect to the specific color wires in the boxes?

EDIT - I somehow overlooked the note in the instructions that you can only use one dimmer in a 3-way application. Let's say I'll put it in the 1st box (the one on the left of the diagram) - I'm still confused on which switch wires to connect to each of the three colors in the box...


texts: What type of caulk is used in bathrooms? I need to caulk between a bathtub and a tiled wall. Can I use the same for caulking around lavatory pan?


texts: Ontario Electrical Code - Can AFCI outlet be used in the beginning of a branch circuit instead of AFCI breaker?

texts:
I'm building my basement. Can I use an AFCI outlet at the beginning of the circuit instead of AFCI breaker? Which branch circuits need AFCI and which do not?

One dedicated circuit for bathroom (outlet/light/fan)
One dedicated 20A circuit for kitchen
Two general purpose circuits (hallway, bedroom outlets and lights))


texts: Water pump pliers or pipe wrench with PVC pipe?

texts:
Which one is the correct tool?

The task at hand is connecting PVC adaptors (male brass threads on one end, PVC/CPVC fitting to receive glue on the other) to valves with brass (?) bodies.


texts: How can you program a Liftmaster garage door opener when there is no "B" button?

texts:
According to the Liftmaster manual, to program the garage door opener, which is required if the LEARN BUTTON was held down 6 seconds or more and ERASED the stored code, one must:

Remove the cover from the Lighted Door Control
Press and hold the button on the hand-held remote that you wish to operate your garage door.
While holding the remote button, press and hold the "A" button on the Lighted Door Control.
Continue holding both buttons while you press the "B" button on the Lighted Door Control (all three buttons are held).
Release buttons when the motor unit lights blink.  It has learned the code.  If light bulbs are not installed, two clicks will be heard.

PROBLEM:
The code was erased, so the above procedure must be followed.
However, the original Lighted Door Control broke apart last year and was replaced by a simple non-lighted doorbell button that has no "B" button.  There is no Home Depot or equivalent anywhere near where I live, so I cannot run out and buy a new Lighted Door Control.
QUESTIONS:

How can I Program the Liftmaster garage door opener and remote without a Lighted Door Control that has both an "A" and a "B" button.
Can more than one hand-held remote control the same garage door opener?


texts:
My AC blows cold air, so I assume my compressor outside works OK. Please correct if that's an incorrect assumption.

The problem is, there is very little cold airflow that comes out of the floor ducts... To the point that closing all the windows and running AC makes a negligible difference in room temperatures, at least as much as the wife desires it to alter.... I.e. if 85 inside and we set it to 70, the 70°F is never reached.

I have the setup where compressor is outside, and fan/evaporator coils are inside as part of the furnace unit.

Can any components be swapped internally to alleviate this low air condition, or is a new system the only option? My dad said the motor and fan can be upgraded, but he knows refrigeration better than AC hence why I'm here asking.

Lastly, my house was built in the 70s, could this also be a problem with an inefficient HVAC duct design more than the poor and old AC system?

PS, filter is brand new so that isnt the issue


texts: Relative maintenance costs of painted vs. stained cedar siding?

texts: I'm house shopping and I have a pretty good idea about the costs to maintain painted cedar exterior siding, but I've run into a few homes with stained cedar exteriors.  How does the cost to maintain stained cedar siding compare to maintaining painted?


texts: I have a gas range. 120v, 16 Gauge 15 amp Plug. Can I use the 20 amp Ciruit Breaker that is currently in the house?


texts: Type of conduit box to use for a Ring doorbell + keyed entry

texts:
I have a powered gate at the front of my property and its well overdue to replace/upgrade the intercom system. I would like to install a ring doorbell system and a keyswitch to open the gate.

The current installation already has a doorbell button (with power), a defunct nutone intercom microphone/speaker, and a contact closure keyswitch for opening the gate. This is installed in an intercom style enclosure, screwed onto a 1" threaded pipe. The pipe is cemented into the driveway wall.

Lets say I remove the entire intercom enclosure. Can you recommend a style or model of enclosure to put in its place?


texts: How can I repair a leak in a PVC water line without bringing down the system for an extended period of time?

texts:
I have a small leak in 1" PVC pipe at a connection to a shutoff valve. It looks like not enough PVC cement was used. Taking this apart to repair it will require the entire household water system to be shut off. I would like to replace the valve/pipe as quickly as possible. Is there a fast curing PVC cement that I can use on a potable water system? I would like the system to not be down more than a couple hours.

NOTE: The leak is actually at the connection of a PVC valve. It looks like there wasn't enough solvent/cement used.

UPDATE: There were a lot of great suggestions. I ended up following Ed Beal's answer for a permanent fix. The cure time chart on the cement said I only needed to wait 20 minutes before pressurizing the system again. Took me 30 minutes from start to finish (not including the wait time to turn the water back on). So far no leaks.


texts: How can I connect a timer to my bathroom exhaust fan?

texts:
I have a bathroom fan, but it only runs when the light is on (i.e. no delay). The fan itself is really good, but it should really run on after (I think this might be part of the Building Regulations here in UK).

I don't want to replace the fan, so was wondering if you can just get the timer unit to attach in-line somewhere.

I've checked and the wiring is there for the permanent live as well as switched live, so am kind of hoping it will be simple!


texts:
So.. we decided to rip up carpet and plywood to find original planks (pine) in one of the third floor rooms in our 1880 home.  Fast forward to save you on reading.. I applied a penetrating oil based minwax stain (dark walnut)..

the floor looks pretty good considering the shape it was in when we started (tried to upload pics but wasn’t working).

The stain has been let to dry for about 4 days now (90° and 80%hum)..  we brushed the oil on and wiped it as we went..

Here’s the question.. to the touch the floor feels dry across the room.  If I rub a q-tip on the floor, there is some coloring on the q-tip.. is this normal? Does this mean the stain is still wet?

After dealing with the oil/smell/drying time, I really want to get this room done, but don’t want to rush the water based polyurethane before the stain dries obviously.


texts: Is it okay to store laminate flooring in a dry garage for a couple weeks?

texts: I have purchased some flooring that I won't be able to install for a couple weeks.  I live in Canada and the winter is on its way, so the temperature is beginning to reach freezing. Is it okay to store the flooring in my garage if I'm sure the floor won't be wet?


texts: What's a good way to minimize bends in a dryer transition duct?

texts:
I installed a new clothes dryer yesterday using the laminated foil transition duct the appliance store gave me.  In order to get behind the dryer to access the duct, I have to pull the dryer out at least 4 feet from the wall.  Then when I push the dryer back to the wall, the duct lays in a twisted heap on the floor with lots of bends that could reduce efficiency and trap lint.

What tips do you have to minimize the number bends in the flexible duct?  Or, would you recommend a different type of transition duct?


texts:
We recently had our townhouse complex re-painted (beige stucco, reddish-brown trim.)  We took the house numbers down ahead of time, of course, and now I need to put them back up.  Previously they were nailed to the wood trim, but the lack of contrast made them hard to see from the street, so we want to put them against the stucco.  I need to know how to do that without screwing up the wall...

The numbers are about a foot tall, 9 inches wide, and an inch thick; they're made of lightweight wood painted to look like hammered copper, and they weigh about a pound each.

I could nail them to the stucco, but I'm concerned about cracking and also about creating holes for rain to enter the wall.  I could glue them on, with Liquid Nails or similar, but I'm concerned about pulling the top layer of stucco/texture/paint off the wall.

Weather conditions: a west-facing wall in Southern California.  Direct sun for 5-7 hours per day; temperatures up to 110 degrees for five months at a time; rain for two months at at time; almost never freezes.


texts: Install New Lyric T5 on second AC, first one went great, this ones confusing, help!

texts:
Ive got 2 thermostats hooked up to 2 heat pump style AC units at my house. Over the weekend I impressed myself and installed a Lyric thermostat to replace a broken thermostat (on the inside of my house) to one of the AC units. It went so easily, I want to replace the other, probably with a Lyric T5.

In any case, the one I did, the wiring was a pretty simple, one to one relationship, where I could match most things, but it did take a few trips to the air handler to find my C wire. The second thermostat doesnt seem to be wired as simply as you can tell by the photos below hopefully.

I think my C wire is black and hiding behind the thermostats housing, any confirmation on that would be great:)

I can see that my R terminal and my O terminal both have 2 wires in the connection to the board. I also notice in the pic of the current thermostat, that the red wire is split and going to an RH and RC connector. I didnt have that on the first thermostat, so Im wondering what to make of all this?

Some other things of note that I dont understand in the pic of the thermostat as well:

I dont have any kind of gas heat for anything, not water, not anything but it looks like a yellow and blue wire go into that contact on the thermostat.
The white wire runs to a contact thats labeled electric and while the unit is run by electricity, Im not sure what that one is for.
Lastly, that green wire runs to nothing.

I would appreciate any help anyone can give me as to why some of these contacts have dual wires running into them as well as what goes on with the gas/electric portion as well as the green wire, of that thermostat.

Thanks very much in advance!

Attic:

Thermostat:


texts: What side of the Typar paper faces the concrete when attaching to the back of the stud wall in my basement?

texts: We are finishing our basement and live in Utah 5 climate zone. We already had the walls framed and now I'm seeing we should have placed the foam board first.  Now that the walls are up I'm looking at the next best option for proper insulation. We really don't have any water issues but the majority of the concrete wall is under ground.  I found that stapling Typar paper to the back side of the studs would supply a good air barrier and allow for air flow, then place the insulation in the wall.  My question is I found 2 different articles that conflict on which side of the paper should face the concrete. I am also leaning toward mineral wool instead of fiberglass insulation due to the density and if we did have any water it would hold up better.  We are also leaving our floor joists exposed and painting it flat black so I was reading that the mineral wool might be better for acoustics.  Any input would be helpful. Thank you.


texts:
I'm building a custom desk lamp and was thinking of doing something "different" or "fun" for the switch.  The lamp will look something like this with a few tweaks.

The lamp will be used in the US.  Will this switch work?  If not, is there an alternative?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TX3OEC/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=06ZT7A1CPWT1V09TM7YN&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop


texts: What do I need to do to finish this outside-door install properly?

texts:
A new steel door was installed to our unfinished garage but I am not satisfied with how it currently looks. The previous door had trim covering the gap between the siding and the door, as well as the bottom between the riser and the concrete pad.

Is this what is typically done? or is there a better approach to take to this?


texts: Bosch range hood fan low hum and not sucking air

texts: Something is wrong with my Bosch range hood fan. It was working on low but when I switched it to high it started making a low humming sound like it was really struggling and not sucking up air at all. Now it makes this low hum on both low and high settings. It looks like the fan inside is spinning, so maybe it’s the motor itself. Or maybe something stuck because I did some moths/bugs trapped in the two filters. Any ideas?


texts: When a 15-amp breaker switch seems to be sending too much power

texts:
I am doing some wiring from a subpanel.  The main panel is sending power via 3-way wiring (3 plus a ground) to the subpanel.  This subpanel is intended for both 220 and 110 volt add-ons.  I have a 110 line from the subpanel via a 15-amp breaker switch.  It is a very short wire from the subpanel--maybe 3 feet away to an electrical outlet.

I have thus far installed (1) a small radio to test the circuit; it ran fine for 10 minutes, then burned out and started smoking.  Then, (2) I tried a lamp to test the circuit; the bulb lit up and immediately blew.

Is there too much voltage/amperage going through this circuit?  How?  Shouldnt the 15-amp breaker switch keep this from happening?


texts: Is it possible to control the speed of the fan on my central A/C unit?

texts:
I have one of those medium sized AC-units (don't know the model name at the moment) and a very basic Honeywell thermostat that the installers put in when the house was built.

However, there doesn't seem to be much options.  I can only turn the fan on or off, AC on or off, set the schedule, and the desired temp.

Is there a way to control the fan speed (It's quite loud and I'm planning on renting the basement out... with the AC unit right next to the basement window) like those portable AC units? Is this dependent on the thermostat or the AC unit itself?


texts: Is it necessary to replace a furnace when replacing the air conditioner?

texts: When replacing a central Air Conditioner is it also necessary to replace the furnace,which is part of a forced air system. Thanks


texts: What tool should I use for an octagonal nut on a plumbing trap?

texts:
I have a PVC P-trap under a sink and the trap nut is a very low profile, flush plastic nut that appears to be octagonal. The nut is only about 1/8" thick or less and 1" across so there is very little area for a wrench to grip onto. To make it even worse, the corners of the nut are not sharp, but are rounded off.

Is there some kind of special tool that is used for this kind of nut?


texts: How best to deal with this crumbling interior brickwork?

texts:
While I was repainting the interior, some plaster started coming off the old  brickwork in my new house. I now have a 50cm by 50cm hole. Underneath, the mortar is crumbling and some bricks are cracked. I'd like to plaster over this hole, but first I need to patch up the mortar. Two questions:

Is this easy to do myself? I'm a DIY beginner. If so, is there an easier way than mixing a load of lime mortar, for this small job?
Should I be worried that there are underlying problems with the brickwork? The survey said the house was structurally sound. I'm not sure whether this level of damage is normal for a house this old (c. 1800) or if it might reveal other issues.


texts: Why does my sink's strainer bowl connection leak?

texts:
I have two kitchen sinks, a P-Trap is indeed located under the floor. The problem I'm experiencing is that with heavy water flow (when open hot or cold water tap at full rate), the leak starts at "red rectangle" position. The strainer pipe fits exactly in the black plastic pipe, so there is no issue with size

I suspect there might be a blockage down the pipe, and as water goes back it leaks, but why would it not flow back in the sink then? When strain pipe enters the PVC pipe, is it supposed to have some plumber's putty/etc. applied?

I would be glad to have some advice on this. Thanks.

UPDATE As was suggested by Michael Karas, the solution is to install a compression washer on the tail pipe fitting in the black pipe.


texts: Sub Panel in detached 10x10 bldg(welding shed)

texts:
Main bldg with 200a service. Detached 10x10 welding shed 40' away. Ran #6 (hot, hot, neutral, and #8 ground) in conduit from main bldg to shed for 60a service. Will have 60a breaker in main bldg panel feeding a 12 circuit sub panel with 60a main breaker for disconnect since we have more than 6 circuits. Will have #6 bare copper ground to two 8' ground rod outside bldg. Installed grounding bar in Panel and is not bonded.

Inside welding shed will have two 220v circuits using 6/3 on 50a breakers. Remaining 6 circuits are 12/2 for 110v lighting and outlets. (two 20a GFCI circuits, one dedicated 20a non-GFCI for small AC window unit, one dedicated 20a 120v for welder, one dedicated 15a for LED inside lighting, and one dedicated 20a for outside GFCI outlet.

This is not a commercial welding setup and only ONE of the three welders will ever be used at any given time.

Am I on the right track?

Any input is appreciated.

Best Regards,
Richard


texts: I have torn out the ceiling in my guest room with the intention of converting to a cathedral ceiling by replacing the ridge board with a ridge beam + posts. Structural engineer says I need 4x4 posts, which is all fine. However, AFTER that, I tore the wall open and discovered that the bottom plate is a 2x4 on its side instead of lying flat and the studs are flat side, too, so the wall is 1.5" thick instead of 3.5". Can I just attach another 2x4 to 2x4 bottom plate to make it 4x4 and land the 4x4 post on it as planned?


texts: open light socket on string lights safe to use?

texts: I have string lights in my room and my sister accidentally broke one of the bulbs. The lights are my main source of light in my room so I was wondering if I just removed the broken bulb it would all be fine but I'm worried that if plug them in something bad will happen


texts: Is it possible to use ABS cement to glue together THREADED ABS union fitting on P-trap for permanent connection?

texts:
Is it possible to use ABS cement for threaded ABS union fitting on P-trap for permanent connection? Or it won't be secure enough even if it glued together with cement?
Or need to actually replace with a P-Trap with union that glues together with cement.


texts: 1 Hot Receptacle 2 Light Fixtures 1 Switch - Is it possible?

texts:
I just barely finished re-wiring my bathroom on a circuit that connects to the hall light. So currently is is composed of the hall 1)light/switch 2)bathroom light/switch 3) bathroom receptacle. I would like to add another light fixture above the vanity in the bathroom because the overhead light casts a shadow.

Here is a diagram of the current setup:

Is it possible for me to add another light fixture off of the switch in the bathroom? And if so what would I need to do?


texts: Traditional Recessed Lights or the New "clip" LED Panels?

texts:
I'm finishing my basement (exposed ceiling, will be putting in roxul safensound) and I have a dilemma. Home Depot just released these new 4" puck/panel lights with integrated LED driver. I'm considering using them as they throw out decent light and are dimmable and IC rated. I threw one up last night for testing and think it's alright.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.illume-ultraslim-4-inches-recessed-round-led-panel-light.1000826915.html

Should I go with these or traditional can (halo) type installation? They are so new that I couldn't find many reviews online regarding these. I did find that the integrated driver junction box had very little space to work in, especially connecting lights in series. How would I rough wire my basement if I was using these and pass inspection?

thanks so much.

Eric

update: As per request, I'm attaching the photos I took when I was at HD.


texts: Cabinet door opening on it's own, how do I adjust this type of hinge?

texts:
One of the cabinet doors in our kitchen is swinging open on it's own.  You shut it and it slowly creeps back open.  I've seen the hinges that allow you to adjust x/y axis angles but these only have one screw on the frame side.

Any ideas?


texts: Can I install 125 AMP rated sub-panel when the need is 60 AMPS

texts: I have to add an outdoor sub panel rated 60 AMPs and I need at least 8 spaces for breakers.  I am not finding this anywhere unless I buy a 125 AMP rated breaker box.  Is it acceptable to install a 125 AMP rated panel when the need is only 60 AMPs.  I have 200 AMPS service in the house and have space for a 60 AMP breaker in my main panel


texts: I have a clutch-operated roller blind. I would like to be able to pull the blind down by just grabbing the fabric and tugging it down, as this is easier than fiddling with the chain. (Obviously I will have to use the chain to wind it back up again.) This doesn't work, though, because of the clutch mechanism. Does anybody know if it's possible to disable the clutch? I appreciate that this means I won't be able to have the blind halfway down any more, but I don't mind that.


texts: Limit switch doesn't function on oil furnace

texts: my limit switch on my oil furnace does not shut off the burner when it hits the limit.I replaced the limit twice maybe I had a bad one still no luck . While furnace was running I took the thermostat off the wall and the burner keep running still . Can you tell me what to look for next. does the fossil fuel system have anything to do with this?


texts: Led and basic light bulbs; 2 light sockets. One works with both bulbs, the other doesn't.

texts: I live in an older house and I have a two-socket light fixture in my bedroom. One socket will work with both an LED bulb and a basic (wire??) bulb. The other socket, however, only works with the basic bulb. Why is this and how can I fix it?


texts: Where is the filter for my furnace located?

texts:
In an addition in my house before I moved in, a second furnace was installed way up on crawl space.  The furnace is a Carrier Weathermaker 9200 and it was installed sideways (really 90 degrees counterclockwise from a normal standing position) just for perspective.
I called up the company that installed it way back when and while they still do exist they no longer travel to my neck of the woods so they can't come out to talk about the installation if their notes were even detailed enough and still kept from the installation.
But I had the instruction manual and so I was able to take off the front cover and then the cover for the area where the filter would normally be (as stated by the instruction manual).  Now my other furnace uses disposable filters and I know what they look like.  But for this one, I would imagine that they would use a reusable filter.  When I open up the compartment, I don't see anything I would call a filter.
It is possible that based upon requirements of the space I suppose that the filter could be relocated to another part, but again looking over the unit, I don't see where that would be.  According to the manual page I am posting, it should be #8, and I have a clear picture of that region.
Can you please tell me if you see a filter, and if not, where there might be one for this model?


texts: How can I insulate and elevate an A/C line set on a flat rubber roof?

texts:
The Scenario
An apartment building with a flat black rubber roof. The A/C condenser is on a platform on the roof with an air handler inside the unit.  The line set runs across the roof for about 20 feet before reaching the platform.  The lines lay directly on the hot black rubber.

Solutions?
At a minimum I'm looking to insulate the coolant line.  In the past I've used ArmaCell polyethylene pipe wrap, but it breaks down very quickly leaving the coolant line exposed, poorly insulated, and sweating.   Are there better alternatives?

I'm also considering elevating the line, even a few inches to reduce the heat transfer from the rubber roof. I keep thinking there has to be typical solution used by HVAC contractors, but I've yet to find one.

Any structure would need to be stable and provide good drainage.  The best thing I can come up with is cable tray used to run Ethernet.   Thoughts?  Solutions?


texts:
I have a gas stove (+ electric oven) which has one large burner, two medium burners and a small burner.

The main burner is acceptable, but the medium burners are insufficient to boil a saucepan of water in a reasonable time, even when on full. (I don't even bother with the small burner.) As a result, I can't cook a sauce on the main burner, and boil rice/potatoes/spaghetti on the back burners at the same time.

The stove is about 13 years old, but has had limited use in its life. It is pretty clean, and I don't believe the gas lines are clogged. The valve leading to the stove seems to be fully open (i.e. the knob is in a position parallel to the pipe).

Is it possible to turn up the pressure of the gas entering the stove? Is this a consumer-adjustable item (e.g. adjusting a regulator), a job for a plumber, or will I need to replace the whole stove (which isn't warranted)?


texts: How can an outlet with only 2 wires (hot and neutral) be grounded?

texts:
I live in a home that was built in the late 1930s with some old electrical wiring and some new wiring. As I was identifying which outlets and lights are controlled by which wires I discovered a brainteaser:

A garage outlet that my outlet tester identified as properly wired and grounded:

However, it only had 2 wires going into it: a red one and a white one:

Furthermore, for some reason, the box that holds the outlet is attached to another box with thicker gauge wires that are black, red and white which are not connected anywhere.

I suspect the other box with thicker (12AWG) wires used to have the outlet for a dryer, while the first outlet pictured used to power the washer (they have since been moved to another location).

But my question remains -- how can my tester (which has been pretty good at showing missing ground in other outlets) be showing this outlet as ALL GOOD in terms of ground even though it only has 2 wires going in?

P.S. Making sense of the source of these wires at the panel is not an option for me -- it's a mess.


texts:
I am trying to embed a load-bearing anchor in a 1-inch foam sheet. The most natural solution would be some kind of threaded plastic pair that fits together, with one end being able to have a rope attached. Something like this:

I don't know what terms to search for, however. I've found promising items searching for "plastic flanges" or "bulkhead fittings" but they either have much too small a flange (e.g. half inch wider than threads), or are only available in bulk. Threads are not required (I'm willing to use pvc cement) but ideally, it'd also be UV-resistant, as this is intended for outdoor use. Is there a more accurate name I could be searching for instead?

In case it's relevant, my specific plan is to add an additional three attachment points to a foam raft such as the following:


texts: I have a wood shelf I want to hang in my kitchen. The description states 8 x 24 however; the shelf is actually 9" on one end and 8" on the other end. I understand the brackets should be 1" shorter than the depth. Would it be ok to use (2) 7" brackets? I know the best bet is to drill into the stud and of course would do that if possible or use anchors. I anticipate putting a few dishes, spice bottles and something decorative on the shelf. Nothing too heavy. Thanks.


texts: Whats the difference between metal and plastic insulation support fixings?

texts: I am putting 30mm of fibre insulation on a party wall and then covering it with 12.5mm soundbloc plasterboard which will then be skimmed. Does it matter whether I use plastic or metal insulation support fixings and do they both skim over ok?


texts: I recently redid my kitchen and brought new granite countertops. The company that did the installation was crappy and I had to put in my own supports and other odds and ends that I thought was standard for installation. I asked if the granite was sealed, and they said they didn’t know. I have two questions, how can I tell if the granite is sealed, and if I find it isn’t, do you know of a product that I can use myself?


texts: How to Change this Burned Out Light Bulb

texts: Does anyone know how to change this strange light bulb in this “recessed” light fixture? I tried rotating the bulb counterclockwise but it doesn’t turn/unscrew. The bulb can be pushed up but I can’t get a grip around the perimeter to see if it will pull down. The ring immediately surrounding it can pivot to change the angle of the light but also does NOT rotate. Help!


texts: Options for in-floor receptacles when finishing concrete basement

texts:
I'm in the process of adding a floor to our basement, using the Building Science recommendations (1" of foam insulation covered by 2 layers of 15/32" plywood, covered by some sort of playroom flooring.  I'd like to at least have the option of running power to the center of the room in the future, so I was thinking of running some ENT under the plywood, but not actually wiring anything.  However, I'm not sure what sort of receptacle would be appropriate, eventually, and if I should put a box in place for the future.

I can find two types of boxes that are rated for floors, and neither seem appropriate in this case.  One type is specifically for installing into wood floors, assuming you have access to the floor from below, and the other type assumes that you're pouring concrete and will be pouring the box around the concrete.  Both are far deeper than I'd be able to fit anyway without chiseling out some concrete, and even then the openings for conduit are placed in such a way hat I'd have to chisel out even more concrete.

Am I missing something here, or is adding a floor receptacle to an already existing foundation not realistic?


texts:
According to this energystar.gov chart, the proper air conditioning BTU capacity for a 500 square foot room is 12,000 BTUs.

However, since this is an apartment divided up into several rooms with the possibility of only one A/C unit, I was wondering if 12,000 BTUs is still the correct capacity.

Here is a diagram of the apartment. The location of the A/C unit is indicated. The unit is a window style unit mounted into a wall:

Thanks!


texts: Ho do I fix a cordless screwdriver locked in "over-torque" mode?

texts: I have a 4V Li-ion Screwdriver by Master Mechanic and it's been super handy for the past 5 years. Recently, I've been having problems where it occasionally stops rotating properly when I press the trigger. It still turns, but slowly, weakly, and only for a second. This usually only happens when a screw is already on tightly, back when the electric screwdriver was still functioning properly. It's fully charged, and not in the lock position either. Most tutorials online I've been able to find are mostly for battery replacement but mine seems to be working. Any ideas what might be wrong and how I can fix it?


texts: How to measure voltage AC using multi-meter

texts:
In the process of looking at why my doorbell is not working, I used a multi-meter to check Voltage AC.  (I am very basic at electricals though).

How would you check the voltage AC on a wire?  Where does the black and red leads have to go.  I am told that the black lead needs to go to your earth cable.  Is this so?  If you don't have access to earth, what do you do?  Can black go to a large metal object?

Thank you.


texts: Are electrical subpanels safe in the bedroom?

texts: If not, how do you correct it, or can it be moved without making too much work?


texts: Finishing rewiring the upstairs and was told that the bathroom had to be on its own 20a circuit. No problem did my run but uhoh it's a little short well by a couple feet. Ugh that 12 gauge wire was a pain to snake through all joists holes that once hade porcelain tubes. So I thought ok I can pop a utility outlet and pigtail from there but nope! That gfci outlet must be dedicated circuit and can only have loads 10A or less on that circuit . Am I sol? Could I forego the pigtail at the hallway and make it the first in the circuit series and be in code?


texts: How do I install child-proof drawer latches on bottom drawers?

texts:
Installing child safety latches for cabinet doors is relatively easy (here's a video)

Similarly for the top drawer (pull-out) (video)

But is it possible to do this for the bottom drawers?

The problem is that I have nothing to latch on to.


texts: Hardwood floor refinishing with polyurethane. Do I need to use any sort of base coat? What are the advantages?

texts:
So we are refinishing an old oak hardwood floor, we have sanded it and are cleaning it currently before we apply a satin water-based polyurethane (with no stain).  Probably from varathane or minwax.

I was watching a couple of videos, and some people use some sort of base coat (I believe they are called sanding sealers).  Some say its for the purpose of leveling the floors and making the poly go on evenly, some say its to protect the floor from having the poly discolour it.  I'm not 100% sure what this accomplishes or whether or not it's necessary.  Information seems to be very mixed.

What does a sanding sealer do?  Should I put one on an oak floor for optimal results?  I'm not overly concerned about the extra effort.

My current plan is to do a test with and without in a closet, but I think having some more information from someone with experience in this area would help me make a more informed decision.


texts: TP-link Kasa 2 way HS200 only controls 1 of 7 lights

texts:
HELP for a SmartHome / Electrical noob here
Our kitchen has 11 recessed lights - 6+4 on the main roof and 1 over the sink. The 6+1 are controlled by one 2 way switch (A). The other 4 by a 3-way setup (switches B and C). Switch (A) and (B) are in a 2 gang plate. (C) is on the other end of the kitchen.
I replaced (A) - the 2 way switch that controlled 6+1 recessed lights in the kitchen - with the 2 way HS200 V3. It turns on fine, but only controls 1 of the 7 lights now - the one above the sink. The other 6 stay turned off. Switches (B) and (C) are working fine as usual and controlling the other 4 lights.
(A) had 3 wires as shown in the img below. The "white" wire was connected to the side screw and had black tape around it, so likely "hot". How do I wire this thing?

The bulbs are all LED rated 8-11W / ~96mA. The HS200 I believe is rated 600W / 5A Incandescent and 600W / 15A LED.


texts: How to prepare the ground before laying concrete

texts:
I am building a pizza oven and kitchen area in my garden. I am trying to work out how to lay a 2m*2m concrete slab.
My calculation for the weight (that the concrete slab needs to support) are
Dense bricks: 70 * 18.2kg = 1,274kg
Concrete slabs: 13 * 15kg = 195kg
Pizza oven:     1 * 50kg = 50kg
Total: 1,519kg
I did some research to find out how much concrete (with reinforcement bars) I need but it may turn out the bigger issue is what the concrete will be laying on (how much weight a specific sized concrete slab can carry?)
How do I determine this? In my case, I want to pour the concrete slab over mud, which I would have dug out to size (with a timber frame as well). I was hoping to pour a layer of gravel down but I'm not questioning if that is going to be enough.
I believe our soil is quite chalky.
How do I prepare the ground before laying the concrete slab in the UK?


texts: How is heat output controlled in closed-vent gas fireplace inserts?

texts: Comparing Empire VFRL-18 and VFRL-18-10, the former is 26k BTU while the latter is 10k BTU. The look and price are identical. My question is, can I buy the 26k BTU unit to use in my living room, but if I decide to move it to the bedroom later, I can I step it down to 10k BTU to make it code compliant? In other words, how's the difference in BTU's physically implemented? Is it some part that can be swapped out?


texts: Can the internal part of a slip-on tub spout be removed to install it as a front-end threaded spout?

texts:
I bought a Pfister pfirst modern shower trim kit as it's one of the few compatible with my 80's Pfister Avante valve.
I'm discovering now, however, that the included tub spout appears to be the "slip on" style, while the old spout I'd like to replace is the front-end threaded kind that screws on to the threaded pipe.
Looking into the new spot, it seems like the internal slip on component is itself threaded into the front end of the spout and could possibly be just as well unscrewed, however I've been unable to do so with light pressure and don't want to force and break it since it if doesn't work I'll likely return this.
I wanted to ask if anyone has had experience successfully doing this!  I guess my other option is to cut the pipe?


texts: We had a roof leak that ran down the window frame and got the window sill wet. Everything is dried out and the roof is fixed. Any ideas on how to fix this window sill? I'd prefer not to have to remove the sill and just peel off the paint and what seems to be joint compound or something? Could I skim a layer of wood filler after I peel off the damaged sections of the top layers? There is wood under the top layers.


texts: How to sand plaster corner using oscillating tool?

texts:
I'm fitting a blackout blind and the width of the opening of the window recess at the top narrows over at the the final 4 cm or so (1.6") by a maximum of perhaps 2.5 mm (1/10 th of an inch).  The bulge outwards of the plaster is bigger the closer to the top of the wall you get, so more needs sanding off at the top than the bottom of that 4 cm section -- the 2.5 mm or so is the most is the most it bulges out at the top.  I'm not sure of the material under the plaster, but the building is of late 1930s concrete construction.

The blind runs in tracks that attach to thin battens that will be glued and nailed to the plaster.

So that the battens that the vertical blind tracks will sit in are straight and so a gap is not left between the battens and the wall, I need to make the vertical wall straight.  So I need to remove a roughly wedge-shaped piece of plaster material of max 2.5 mm thickness over that top 4 cm of wall, with at least the same width as the batten, which is around 4.5 cm.

I certainly don't need it perfect but I'd like to make the finished job look reasonably neat.

I'm assuming the best way to do this will be by sanding using an oscillating tool.  Am I correct, and if so what's the best way to go about it?  For example, what sort of attachment (shape/material etc.) would be best suited, how can I achieve the straight edge I'm trying to get, and do I risk losing big chunks of plaster and giving myself a bigger job?


texts: Replacing a dryer that has a three prong hook up

texts:
I'm replacing a dryer that has a 3 prong receptacle.  The receptacle has 2 hot wire connections and a ground wire hooked to the neutral. My new dryer has a grounding strap hooked to the neutral and to the body of the dryer. Do I need to disconnect the grounding strap since the ground is being used as the neutral?

The receptacle, with two hot wires and a ground as a neutral:

The breaker is in the main box. Wired normally.


texts: Is it okay to have a dryer vent in the wall cavity?

texts: I'm redoing the wall of a utility room that, among other things, has the dryer vent embedded in the wall cavity with all kinds of stupid turns to go around the plumbing. Would it be a good idea to remove the vent from the wall and have it just out in the open to facilitate cleaning? Or is it okay to have it in the wall cavity?


texts: Are there any dangers associated with rigid foam insulation?

texts:
Is there any danger of bad fumes/gasses being released from polyisocyanurate or polystyrene rigid foam insulation?  I'm planning on insulating my bedroom from the inside (ie: putting the insulation between the studs), and I'm wondering if I need to worry about fumes over the years.

My guess is there's no issue, as people use this stuff all the time, and my vapour barrier will prevent any air movement anyway.  Still, it was brought up by a hardware store I called, so I'd like some sanity-checking opinions.

Edit: Since I've been able to find precious little information on insulating the inside of exterior walls with rigid insulation, I've decided to go with Roxul (fibreglass-ish) insulation instead.

To answer my question though, I've asked people IRL, and they pretty much scoffed at the idea that rigid foam insulation gives off fumes.


texts: Can you identify the spigot attached to this water heater?

texts:
I have a corrosion problem on my new indirect fired water heater. HTP technical support, the company that makes the heater, wants to know the alloy of the spigots attached to the hot water inlet and outlet pipes. I have appended below a photograph of one of the spigots. Do you know the make/model of this spigot or its alloy?

Note that it is definitely cast because it has a parting line.


texts: How can one make a connection where flexibility is necessary despite the connection being exposed to physical damage?

texts:
It seems that it is common practice in HVAC-land to use a LFNC whip to connect air conditioner condensing units to the house wiring.  However, as statueuphemism rightly points out, it is eminently conceivable that such a wiring connection would be considered "subject to physical damage" under the NEC from errant weed-whackers, mowers, etal.

Considering that there is no flexible wiring means that is allowed by the NEC for use when subject to physical damage, and the use of flexible wiring means to connect to the motor or appliance itself is a practical requirement for motors and motor-driven appliances due to vibration issues, how is one supposed to make these connections in a Code-compliant manner?


texts: How to remove metal ring on flex conduit?

texts:
I'm replacing my electric car charging station with a newer version. The current one is fed from behind by flex conduit which is held in place with a metal ring. The ring is featureless and smooth (see photos) so I don't think it twists off. I tried gripping it with pliers and twisting anyway but all that happened was that the conduit turned.

Any idea how I can remove this ring to release the conduit?

Edit: This is in California USA.


texts: Help me identify the components of my switchgear?

texts:
I have a basic understanding of what I need to do when the power line goes down, though sometimes different switches pop and would like to understand more of what does what. I have no knowledge in electronic components I'm afraid, can someone help me understand the function of every switch? Is it possible to do from this image?

P.S.: Yes, it is my switchgear. I can provide more images if needed!


texts: 'Painter' stained our expensive beams incorrectly. What are the options for fixing?

texts:
We have two really big beams (18"x4"x30' and 18"x4"x10', cedar) holding up our vaulted ceiling.  We had a company out who had a painter stain these for us. It was pretty evident right away he didn't know what he was doing, as he applied the stain and wasn't wiping it off. I asked him to wipe it off, which he did, and the color was somewhat close to what we were expecting. I observed him wiping, thought it was ok, and took off.

Came home to find that the color of the beams was so dark they were almost black. At the beginning they are a lighter brown color, but come to find out, he continued to use the same rag for wiping, which was saturated with stain, and rather than wiping it off, it was just spreading it around.

We bought the exact stain as our mantel so that they would match, and now it looks really bad.

What are the options at this point for fixing it? My only thought is having somebody sand them down, but will that work without looking splotchy? Any other ideas?


texts: What's the most cost effective solution for repairing a slab leak?

texts:
I live in Phoenix in a 1400 sqft home that was built in 1973, single story, brick and frame.  A few days ago we experienced a slab leak in our guest bathroom, and we're currently entertaining bids to fix it.  However, we're a bit in the fog as far as what our best option is as far as the future health of the system is concerned.
   Currently we've got three options:

Repair the damage, by tearing through the concrete, etc.  Insurance will cover everything (demo and replacement) but the repair itself.
Reroute the hot water line in question through the attic, which will be paid by the insurance company in full.
Repipe the house entirely. Insurance won't pay for this, but I think having them reimburse us for one of the two options above will allow for the cost of repiping to go down.

Our concern is that the first two options will only result in another slab leak elsewhere.  It's in this case where we are entertaining repiping of the whole house, especially if it's going to happen again.  We've got some minor issues that will also be taken care of, like fixing the lines that tap into the irrigation (amateur leaky job) or moving the tankless water heater a bit to allow for a better water filtration set up.

So we'd like to know if the 'one-and-done' expensive solution is the right one, or is it not worth it?


texts: Did I mount this light too close to a post?

texts:
I was adding 2 new additional basement lights today, I thought I was doing a good job of mounting everything correctly and securing the wire.

However when I finished and got someone else to look at it they pointed out that I may have mounted the lights too close to the beam.

I mounted them in that position because it would still let me crawl between the posts without hitting the lights, and It was easy to work on as I could sit on the concrete pier.

My question is: Is this light mounted too close the post? What electrical code dictates the minimum distance between the light and wood?
I'd like to not have to not have to take them down, but if It wouldn't pass inspection I'd definitely re-do it.


texts: How does a water mains booster pump work? Isn't the flow rate solely determined by what reaches the property in the first place?

texts:
When getting quotes for a boiler replacement, we've been recommended to install a mains booster pump (e.g., Salamander HomeBoost). We live in a 3rd story UK flat and currently get a dismal 5 l/min flow rate, so the prospect of improving our flow rate/pressure is an appealing one, but I'm struggling to understand how a pump can increase the flow of water arriving to our flat in the first place. Is anyone able to explain the mechanism by which these systems work to somehow draw more water from the incoming system?
Thanks very much for any help!


texts: I'm getting orange peel spraying on oil in high temperatures with an HVLP conversion gun. What's the fix?

texts:
I'm not an experienced painter using my gravity-fed HVLP conversion gun yet, and I'm looking for any pros who can give me a few pointers. I'm spraying some cabinets at a friend's house and need to get things right. We're spraying Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel over top of wood cabinets primed with the recommended Sherwin Williams primer. The paint sprays fine without any thinning through the gun (the primer required 10% Penetrol to even spray), but is flashing dry with an uneven orange peel finish.

The gun is spraying a nice, evenly distributed fan pattern without spatters, drips, or large drops. The atomization seems perfect and there isn't much overspray. I'm not sure that there's an adjustment on the gun that I can make that will prevent orange peel from forming.

My thinking is that it's 110 degrees outside today here in San Antonio, TX, and that the temperature is causing some of the issues. I have mineral spirits, penetrol, and naptha that I can thin the paint with... but thinning the paint in theory makes it dry even faster. Is my problem the fast dry time in the high heat, or is the lack of thinning?


texts: I know it is common for 2nd story gutters to empty on the roof surface; however, houses I've seen the gutter empty close to the roof.  my recently install gutters seem to be four to five inches off the roof.  Is there such a thing as too high?


texts: I want to move the Lounge/Living by the front lawn, how should I revamp this and where should I move the drawing room


texts: What to do to reduce the humming noise of an AC unit?

texts:
I have this ac unit:

When I turn it on it makes a noise as soon as compressor starts. It's a humming repetitive noise. I thought it was the fan, but when I put it in fan only mode it does not make the noise. Now when the compressor is on, it makes normal noise but lately it started to get a little louder with the repetitive humming. I want to attempt to reduce it by opeining it up and tighteing the screws, oiling what I can ...etc. My question, is what else can I do?


texts: I live in a apartment. It is not insulated. The outside is block because it was converted into a apartment from the end of a garage. I heat with a ventless gas heater. In the winter I have so much moisture that my indoor window seals drip with water. The closet had ice on the inside. My clothes smell musty. I’ve got a dehumidifier and what do I need to set the RH% on in order to keep the moisture removed.


texts: Why is my garage door opening and closing automatically?

texts: When I open the garage door, then get into my truck, the door closes automatically. If both garage doors are closed and I get into my truck one of the doors will open. The only way to get my truck out of the garage is to unplug the opener. This happens 70 percent of the time. Something is interfering with the opener. Could Bluetooth be the cause?


texts: Leveling joists for drywall installation

texts:
So I asked a question a couple of days ago about leveling my ceiling joists. I got great recommendations, from strapping with 1X3 straps, and also metal studs.

So I placed String Lines across and found out I have a max of half an inch difference from one joist to another. There are actually 2 joists right next to each other that are lower than others by 0.5 inch (the third and 4th joist from the left in the picture).

So my question is: Will the imperfections be noticeable if I decide not to correct this before drywall placement? Thank you.


texts: Are all ceiling fan switches interchangeable?

texts: I need to replace the switch in a ceiling fan and the current switch's model number is "ZE-109 E89885". If I look for it at Home Depot and they don't have that exact model, what is acceptable?


texts: Drywall “box” around firewall penetration inside stud cavity

texts: In my condo (three floor building) the interior walls are all Fireguard-grade 5/8 drywall attached to 11 gauge structural steel studs (which SUCK except for when hurricanes blow through). Each original penetration has a fireguard “box” around it. I’m wondering if this is necessary? The construction is party wall, so there are four sheets of Fireguard between my interior and my neighbors. I’m told my interior wall is required to be 1hr firewall.


texts: Identify if this is a load bearing wall from the blue print

texts:
We are exploring the remodeling of our kitchen, and wondering if this wall between living room and kitchen is load bearing ?
I have attached the blue print and photo. Are there any indications in the blue print which provides this proof ?