texts: Will a board blocking my air conditioning break it?

texts:
I have a central air-conditioning system in my rented flat. There is on massive machine on my balcony which blows out hot air when the air-conditioning is in use. The hot air is so powerful that it can hit you in the face from 2 meters away. I needed for some reason to block the hot air from blowing into the balcony so I put a wooden board in front of it and on the right hand side. Its only heat outlet therefore is on the left hand side. So to draw it out for you the machine is mounted on the wall. About 4 inches to the right there is a wooden board. About 8 inches in front of where it blows  the hot air there is another board. To its left there is open air. The boards are getting very hot when the air-conditioning is on.

Will the air-conditioning break because it is too hot and the air isnt finding the left path to escape?

Is there something I can put in front of the machine to direct the blown air to the left and not straight at the boards?


texts: Is it okay to place a knob bore where it overlaps into the door rail?

texts: Is it okay to bore my knob hole when it overlaps into the lock rail? A standard 2 3/8" back set puts me outside of my stile. I'll have to find a non-standard latch or just bore out into the rail. Is there any problem with this, especially after I put in a dutchman to cover two old holes.


texts: Adding NM cable into side hole on service panel, code securing?

texts: Service panel in basement is mounted directly to block wall just below the joist. I want to add new circuit cables, NM-B-14-2, through side holes using a knockout clamp. If the side hole is more than 12” below the joists do I need to secure the cable between the hole and the joist? How should it be secured?


texts: After short circuit, light switch no longer has power

texts:
I removed a light switch/dimmer from the wall because the light was flickering
The wires in the wall were live and exposed
The wires in the wall accidentally touched each other, causing the circuit breaker to trip
After hooking the dimmer back up, it doesn't work at all
All other wires/outlets in the room still have power - including the fan which was connected to 2 of the same wires

Are the wires that touched now "dead" because they were short circuited?

What would it take to fix it so that the light switch has power again (for now I don't care if it flickers, I just want it to power on, period)?

Note: I will most likely call an electrician but I was hoping to get an idea of how big of a job this will be. e.g. will it require him to replace the entire wiring in the wall?


texts:
I have a room upstairs that's the size of a small studio apartment. My daughter decided to move back home but my tenant noticed that the room she moved into is tied into their apartment. I went to the panel box and noticed that there is a 12/3 wire in place.

My question is can I take the hot wire going to my kid's room and put it on my panel? Would it be ok with the ground and neutral still plugged into the other panel?


texts: Can i run cat7 cable parallel to electrical wiring?

texts:
I need to add ethernet cables to my business. Above the t-bar ceilling i have all the electrical wires 120 & 240 volts inside several metal pipes. If i run cat7 cables inside one pvc pipes that runs parallel next to the metal pipes. Is it going to cause problems? Interferences? Pipes run 100 feet long.
Thanks


texts: How to replace cartridge on Grohe shower valve

texts:
I have a Grohe thermostatic shower valve that runs very hot.  I realize I probably just need to replace the cartridge, but I'm a much better electrician than plumber!  I'm pretty sure the model name is Seabury.  I found the following numbers on it: A112 18.M 0504-51
What are the next steps? I think the black plastic thing needs to come off to get to the cartridge, but I don't want to break anything trying to get it off.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

!Grohe Seaburry removed cover and handle]2


texts:
I'm considering a new roof for my suburban home.  The home is about fourteen years old and the shingles are in so-so shape.  We have had two leaks already and I've been told that means it is a good time to consider replacing the roof.

Rather than replace with another traditional shingle roof, I'm considering going with a metal roof.  I've seen a couple in the neighborhood and they look nice, and I hear a metal roof will last a lot longer.

Aluminum and steel appear to be the two major products when it comes to metal roofing for residential homes.  I'm not sure whether I should be considering aluminum, or steel.

What are the pros and cons of steel vs. aluminum metal roofing?  That is, what advantages and disadvantages does steel roofing have compared to aluminum roofing, and vice-versa?  If I go for one or the other type, what should I be looking out for and what should I be avoiding?


texts:
I am looking to finish our basement and add two bedrooms. The basement has one stairway access from the basement to the main level of the home. Additionally, it has another stairway access from the basement to the garage.

I currently have four non-egress windows in the basement. I am hoping to add two bedrooms with two windows each.

Can I do this, without needing to add an egress window in the basement bedrooms? Does having a second stairway access to the garage count as a walk-out? Does having a second stairway access to the garage mean I don't need an egress window in the future finished bedroom?


texts: How do I fix a loose brick on the corner of a tree well?

texts:
I have a loose brick on a recently made tree well. I have Quikrete Type S mortar and I'm planning on getting a trowel. What are the steps to remove the existing mortar on the brick (which is completely loose at this point) and fix it back on? Did it come loose for any particular reason?

I'm thinking of adding water to the mortar to start after removing existing mortar using a trowel or hammer to loosen the mortar debris. Any recommendations would be appreciated.


texts: Can I power seven 54W LED light strips from a 400W supply?

texts: I have ws2812b 60 LED/meter and a 400W/80A power supply.  Is it fair to say that my power supply is 'capable of supplying' up to 400W of power and not 'pushing' all 400W of power?  My understanding is that the circuit components will 'draw' (pull) only the amount of power they need from that great ocean of 400W of available power. Therefore if my 5m addressable ws2812b LED light strip draws total of 54W (60mA * 3V * 300 LEDs = 54W), then I can power up to 7 such strips on this same 400W power supply?


texts:
In some buildings, I've noticed circuit breakers in what appear to be ordinary electrical boxes.  For example, in some musical practice rooms, the light, fan, and a receptacle are all switched by a breaker which is mounted in a way similar to a light switch, except for a placard explaining how to reset the breaker if it trips.  I would expect things were done this way so that someone who accidentally overloads the breaker would be able to reset it without having to find a custodian with a key to the main electrical box.

While I doubt that I'm going to rewire my kitchen any time soon, it is sometimes a nuisance having to go to the basement to reset a kitchen breaker if two high-draw appliances get used simultaneously on the wrong receptacles.  It would seem nicer as a design to have a master 40A feed to the kitchen and then have a 20A breaker near each receptacle so that any combination of receptacles could be used to draw up to 40A total, rather than to have to worry about which receptacles could be used together and then have to visit the basement in case of a mistake.  Would such a design satisfy code requirements (I would think having enough outlets total, driven through enough 20A breakers, and fed with at least 40A of capacity, should qualify)?  Would there be any problems with such a design?

Alternatively, are there any outlet assemblies with built-in breakers that would be approved for permanent installation (unlike e.g. power strips), and which could be safely fed from a greater-than-20A circuit?


texts:
I'm getting laminate flooring fitted in my lounge, porch and toilet and need to prep the concrete floor before it goes down.

The living room was easy as it only had carpet down. The porch and toilet had ceramic tiles which we've now removed (including adhesive). The concern I have is that there is a 1mm difference in the level of the floor between the lounge and the porch/toilet. Is this too much of a height difference for the laminate flooring to be laid evenly?


texts: Support for shelves already on L brackets

texts:
I have constructed two 6 feet by 19 inches shelves using 3 heavy duty brackets which have diagonal support , which is screwed into stud using 3 inch steel self drilling lag from spax. The floor of shelves is made out of laying 5 2x4 pressure treated lumber. The wall outer construction is drywall, the shelves are in garage with room upstairs.

There is no sagging and it feels solid after putting around 150 lbs my questions are:

How many can I add similar shelves vertically using same stud safely
Does it provide any extra support if I add a 2 vertical 2x4 from both sides of shelves edge to the ground


texts: Caan someone check my wiring of a digital timer?

texts:
I bought a "Woods model 590818/59028" digital timer from Coleman.com through Amazon for my front porch. After wiring, the On/Off button stays lit and does nothing else. I'm hoping someone can check my wiring to rule out a defective timer.

In the wall fixture, there are two lines. The one with the hot wire (at the BOTTOM) has three wires: black (120 VAC hot), ground, and white.

The line (at the TOP) has four wires: black, red, ground and white.

The timer has four wires: black (hot), red (load), ground and white.

I connected the black (hot 120 VAC) wire to the black (hot) wire on the timer.

I tapped the white wire on the timer into the white wires that are connected as well as the ground wire.

I believe I have everything correct so far. Now for the tricky part.

I connected the red wire from the timer to the black wire from the TOP line, since it was connected to the old timer I replaced. The On/Off button stays lit. The front porch light cannot be lit. I pressed "reset" as instructed in the accompanying directions.

So I connected the red wire from the timer to the red wire from the top line. Same result.

Is my original wiring correct and the timer defective, or have I got the wiring all wrong?


texts: I cut recessed light holes in my ceilling. I was wondering if I can use anything to protect the rough inner edge of the cutout hole to protect drywall from chipping. Any ideas or suggestions?


texts: Electric Wall oven with power/ Circuit Breaker?

texts:
I am attempting to replace my wall oven which was installed sometime in the 80's. I (think) I tripped all my circuit breakers and the wall oven still had power. Do I need to  turn off the main power to the house or what could it be?

Any advice or assistance would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I can't believe this hasn't been asked before.  But with covid-19, I've started working i my previously unused basement.  It's half finished, half not.  And in the finished rooms I've been noticing on a weekly basis some centipede will just come trotting across the floor or wall like it owns the place.
I've been aware of the centipedes ever since the house was built 7 years ago because I put sticky traps out for spiders and caught way more than I ever wanted to know about.  But they basically never came upstairs and the basement was vacant for years.  So I didn't care for all that time.
But now, they need to disappear.  I'm not really interested in the koom-bay-yah: love nature, they kill the bad insects nonsense.
So.  How should I go about keeping them out?  Or how can I find out where they're coming in and seal it?
The humidity doesn't feel abnormal.  There's no obvious food source.
The unfinished basement does have a sump pump, and one break in the concrete floor to access plumbing.  There's a couple floor drains.
The finished part is solid drywall with the only openings being outlets, a closed daylight window, and the occasional HVAC register.  (Though the HVAC is never in exterior walls.)
I suppose there is no airtight seal between the carpet and the baseboard either.
I know that there is about a half inch gap between the studs and the concrete wall.  I observed it during construction and they explained it was so that air could circulate to help dry the concrete if there were ever a leak.
I pulled the front plate off an outlet, scraped out a little notch in the drywall, and stuck a bore scope back there to look around.  I saw fiberglass, which I was not expecting...  I saw no wetness, but I left it on for several hours, and did see a couple bugs pass by on a couple occasions.  It's hard to say if they were attracted to the light on the scope, or if they were there anyway.  The carpet beneath this outlet plate happened to have some dead rollie polies on the carpet below so....
I'd rather not deal with insecticides because I don't want a recurring procedure and cost.  I'd prefer to find where they're coming from and seal that up.
Surely they don't come through the concrete walls right?  So where do they usually get in to houses?
UPDATE 2020-05-07:  On my hunch that they were coming through an outlet, I took a USB endoscope and stuck it in-between a junction box and the drywall with the cover plate off.  I left it up on screen while I worked for the last couple weeks, and tonight I saw motion and hit screenshot.  Look what I caught!

This outlet is maybe 3 foot to the side of a 'basement egress window' in a 2-foot-deep well.  So I wonder if they're not getting in through that.
What kind of poisons could I spray into the wall area to kill these suckers without damaging my home?  I'm ready to take the covers off ALL the outlets and just dump shit back in there if it would help.
Would wasp-spray / RAID work alright for this?  I imagine I could fashion an extension or cut the nosel so it fits im the small space i have to work with.


texts: How can I identify my bathroom tub faucet pressure valve?

texts:
I am looking for a replacement trim valve kit and I am having trouble finding the right one that will fit my current pressure valve. It appears to me to be a model from American Standard.

Click photo for full size


texts: Is this ceiling rose electrical wiring diagram correct for the lighting system I am implementing

texts:
I have found a few wiring diagrams online, but none that fit my specific scenario. Please can you tell me if my wiring plan according to my diagram below is correct. Apologies for the non standard diagram and probably terrible terminology, I hope it makes sense. I am quite new to electrics. I have somebody I can have check the system for safety, but I am trying to learn on my own.

Scenario:

We have a main overhead light in the centre of the bedroom, and two reading lights above the bed. The main overhead light and each reading light is switched independently, and each can be switched on without any of the other lights being on.

To this end, I intent to run the supply in on the live loop, and run the live back out to the main overhead light switch, which when on, will complete the main overhead light circuit.

The other two lights, the reading lights will be joined together in one terminal, each going to a light and switched circuit returning to the neutral terminal together.

As far as I can see, any switch being switched on in this system will complete a circuit, independently of the other circuits connected from this ceiling rose.

Does this look correct?


texts:
My old bathroom vent was just vented into the attic and I would like to run it to the side of my house and that is about 22-25 feet. My bathroom is 11'x6' with a 110 cfm fan. I live in Southeast PA.

Would that be ok?

Also I would like to use 4" insulated rigid pipe but I can't seem to find any? Home depot carries insulation sleeves for 6" but not 4".


texts: When converting a pool to salt water, should the pool lights be replaced?

texts: We are planning to convert our pool to a salt water pool. We have 3 quotes.. All 3 suggested different systems...Hayward, Pentair and Jandy.  We want to know if the salt water filtration system will rust the pool lights? Should we replace them? Should we seal them?


texts:
We have an interior wall that is textured plaster in our 1934 Tudor home. We are going to flip the pictured light switch to the other side of the wall, so that we can mount a television on the wall.
I am getting confused reading up on patching plaster walls for a few reasons:

The little patch kits sold at Home Depot etc, I'm not sure if these are for dry-wall only and if they will patch the size hole we will have.
If we can avoid it, we don't want to re-do the entire wall, since the walls were recently re-done and are in good shape overall.

Anybody who knows how complicated this will be, your thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
James


texts: Does a small concrete slab need control joints?

texts:
I’m pouring a small slab for some pool equipment.  It will be 4’x8’x3.5”.  I expect little to no foot traffic, just a heater, pump, and chlorinator.  (Mabye foot traffic just when adding tablets)
Do I need a control joint in the middle?  Or do you think my slab is small enough to get away with nothing.
(I have minimal concrete experience in slabs... just things like post holes and filling blocks)


texts: How can I repair this garage door trim and weather stripping?

texts: The weather stripping on the outside of my garage door is wavy, as is the metal trim its anchored through, which leads to a lot of air leakage. I could just caulk this as is, but I'm guessing the results would be better if I removed some of the waviness first. However, I'm not really sure what caused it, how to undo it, or how to prevent it from happening again. Any tips about that? It's been like this for years, but is now becoming an issue as I'm working on insulating the garage.


texts: Want to switch to tankless, but can I use my existing wiring?

texts:
The tankless water heaters I am looking at require 8 AWG wire but the existing wiring is 12 AWG.

Can I do this without having to rerun new wire?


texts:
I've had my flooring and skirting boards replaced recently. Ripping out the skirting boards has caused the wall paint to chip in a bunch of places, e.g.:

Now my question is, should I use filler here, or just sand down the rough edge and paint? Since the plasterboard is intact it doesn't sound like filler should be needed, but the gap seems pretty big (who knew paint could be so thick??).
And if I am to use filler here, should I use fibreglass tape as well? I figure since the area is pretty big it might help me spread the filler more evenly, but it might also end up thicker than it needs to be... Help, I don't know what I'm doing :)


texts: Will copper/iron pipe last longer with/without stand water in shower riser?

texts:
I have very specific practical question. Which way a pipe will last the longest and less corrosion will appear inside (internally) the pipe while it last?
1 I have one shower water IRON pipe, the question is it good idea to leave water inside the shower pipe after each use (use shower almost every other day) or let it out (through the faucet) ?
2 I have another shower water COPPER pipe, the question is it good idea to leave water inside the shower pipe after each use (use shower almost every other day) or let it out (through the faucet) ?
Thanks a lot


texts: Old switch tripping breaker after a different one was replaced

texts:
So my electrical is bad and I knew that before buying my house just a few months ago. I just replace a double switch which works fine on both switches. Now, a different switch that turns 2 outlets on and off is tripping 2 different breakers. I did not touch that switch and it was always on before.

Also I want to note there are a lot of overloaded breakers because of an obnoxious amount of outlets in the house.

If I remove some of the outlets we don’t and will never use from the circuit does anyone think it will prevent this old switch from tripping?

Also, it still trips if it is the only thing on.

I’m kind of throwing a lot out there but I am just trying to find my fastest course of action for now before I gut a lot of the electrical latter.

Thanks in advance.


texts: What is my wall made of and how can I cut it without chipping?

texts:
While mounting a monitor on my wall I decided to add an outlet as well. While cutting through the wall (it is an exterior wall) I noticed the wall was thicker than just drywall. The main problem I had was the paint later that kept chipping as I tried to cut a hole (with a jab saw) for the old work box, and now I have small repairs to make.

Can anyone tell me

What these layers are, I know one is drywall, oddly enough its the inner layer, but I dont know the other 2.
How can I repair the chipping that took place? Is it just spackle like normal drywall?
Most important, is there anything I can do to keep the chipping from happening in the future?


texts: What is the cleanest way to trim the drywall around this electrical box?

texts:
I'm mounting a ceiling fan into an existing ceiling fan electrical box.

The drywall was finished around the box such that it's too close to the box and will be in the way of the hanging bracket and fan trim. I'll need to cut it back. What's the best way to trim back drywall in a situation like this?


texts:
First time poster – thanks for all replies.

I have just replaced a sink in my bathroom, but am finding it extremely frustrating replacing the P Trap under the sink for the following reason.

The original basin waste was very long, so I couldn't find one that was the same length as the original. I bought the longest one I could find, which now means that there is a tiny gap (about 20mm) between the basin waste and p trap that I cannot find any reasonable way to extending or adapting. Any adapter or extenders I've found are much to big for this gap.

All pipes are 40mm.

Does anyone know of an adapter that would be suitable in this situation? Thanks.


texts: What should I use to replace extra thick (1.75") sill plate? Should I shim 2x dimensional lumber?

texts:
My house was built in 1956 and I have come across some sections of sill plate on the cinder block foundation wall that need to be replaced due to termite damage or rot. It seems that they used some extra beefy lumber, and it measures 1.75" thick.

I understand the basics of how to replace the plate, by jacking up the floor joists, etc. However, what would you suggest I do about making up the extra 1/4" compared to a modern 2x lumber?

Some options I thought of:

Custom order lumber
Rip 4x stock to size
Shim with:

Rip 1/4" redwood  shims
1/4" ply
2 pieces of 1/8" Redwood Benderboard
2 pieces of 1/8" Masonite
1 piece of 3/16" Masonite and ignore the extra 16th

Just ignore it? Seems like a lot to ignore.
What options am I not thinking about?

Thank you for any advice.


texts: Can I usefully control an electric baseboard heater in 1 room with the same thermostat as my central heat?

texts: My house has a gas furnace and heat pump (and AC). Unfortunately, one bedroom does not have air ducts hooked up. Is there a way I could install a baseboard heater in that bedroom and have it controlled by the same thermostat that controls the furnace and heat pump? The answer could be wired as 1 zone or 2.


texts: How to wire a bathroom fan with a timer?

texts:
From what I understand there are 3 ways to wire a bathroom fan:

Together with the lights (both are on or off);
Individual switches for lights and fan;
Put the fan (and maybe the light) on a presence sensor (which usually have a timer).

Now what I would like is to have a switch to turn the fan on and when the switch is turned off it remains on for a while. Is there a way to setup that?


texts:
A Florida HVAC device keeps a bank of storage units frosty in the summer time.   A wifi thermostat is desired: a determination has to be made as to whether the device is a heat pump or not.  The device is manufactured by [International Comfort Products Model WAHL364B2][1]  A google search was not successful in determining

Is the device a heatpump?  If not is it only an AC?
If the thermostat has a brown wire (Emergency Heat per color code convention), does this confirm the device is a heat pump?

A related question to the same system is posted here.


texts: Does it make sense to apply a (Minwax) wax paste on top of a polyurethane/stain finish?

texts: I have just finished a piece of wood that I intend to use as a writing/work desk with a polyurethane stain. I've seen some talk of it possibly being a good idea to apply a coat of rub-on paste wax on top of the poly finish. Has anyone else done this? Does it work? In what circumstances is it a good idea? What is the result?


texts: Kitchen plumbing problems: disposal shooting water in the opposite sink and new dishwasher leaving food on dishes. Is my plumbing setup causing this?

texts: I am having two problems that I think are related.  Backstory, just moved into a 2010 built home.  Replaced the contractor grade dishwasher with a new one.  Kitchen has two sinks.  When the disposal is used, the water shoots up in the opposite sink.  Additionally, the dishwasher is leaving food, sediment on the dishes.  Took the trap apart and no clog was present.  Hoping to find a solution before calling a plumber.


texts:
We're definitely not DIY-types in our household, so would love an answer from those who know the answer: We have a gas water heater in the basement, and will be traveling for over a month this summer. No worries about freezing at this time of year, but the water heater is aging and we'd rather not have a flood if it should fail while we're gone. Our thoughts are to turn off the water at the main, & drain the pipes to avoid any possible leakage problems. What do we do with the water heater? Normally we don't shut the water off, so we usually just turn the water heater to "pilot".
Suggestions?


texts: 110v Gas Range to existing 220v NEMA 10-50 outlet

texts:
What's the EASIEST way to plug my 110v gas range into existing 220v NEMA 10-50 outlet.
Much appreciated,
Jeff


texts: Does a new water tank need to be installed at the same height as an existing one for the floats to work properly?

texts:
I'm installing a 500 gallon water tank next to an existing water tank...
The existing tank holds 300 gallons and is fed by well water. This tank has a float shut off and a pump that pumps into a pressure tank and then the house.
We will connect at the bottom w/ 2" PVC.
I've read that the two tanks need to be set at the same heights.
Does this mean that the new 500 gallon tank will only store 300 gallons since the existing tank will shut off at that point via the float switch?
Can I raise the level of the 300 gallon tank so that it is higher than the 500 gal tank (I was thinking the 500 would store more water but now realizing that the water in this tank wont flow back to the 300). Thank you!


texts:
My basement is dry.  I just recently drylocked the walls.  So now I want to put drywall up.  Was going to use the foam board installation....wooden framing and green board.

But with reading the many opinions....wooden framing in the basement is a no-no.  Metal framing instead?   Do I put up a vapor barrier?  Some says yes....some say no


texts: Is it okay to not connect the grounding wire to a ceiling box?

texts:
Is it ok to connect the ground wire of a new light/fan fixture to the ground wire of the house without connecting them to the ground screw in the outlet box? The new ceiling fan/light had a stabilizing bar which covered the box preventing me from getting the ground wire back into the box. I made the connections securely with twist caps and electrical tape so that none of them could become loose, or lay near each other. I am hoping that the ground wire from the house was already grounded... is this a moderately safe assumption?

The outlet box was a plastic box.


texts: Should washing machines be placed on tile or other water-proof flooring?

texts:
I am redoing the area where my washing machine is.  Currently it's placed in a closet and has a tile floor.  I'd rather not use tile in the new setup, but it got me wondering if this is an important aspect of a laundry area.

How important is it for the floor below a washing machine to be resistant to water?


texts: Difficulty/Cost to repair drywall from tv mount?

texts:
So I have wall mounted a very large TV and my wall currently has a 1 foot x 1 foot hole that I used to install an outlet for power, there are like 8 holes in the wall, and then a 6" x 6" hole toward the bottom of the wall where my cables exit the wall.

I'm looking to sell my home within a couple of years and I would like the wall to look as new as possible.  What method is done to do this and will my wall look like it has undergone a repair or is it possible to have a nearly invisible repair done?

I still have the original pieces of drywall, but I have no experience in repairing anything like this.


texts: What is the best proportion sand/cement to do pavers?

texts: I want to make my own patio using pre-made molds.  I would like to know if I can use only cement and sand.  Will it be resistant or do I need to add aggregates.  What should be the ratio?


texts: Re-Staining Factory Finished Maple Hardwood Darker Tones

texts:
I'm pretty familiar with the cosmetic remodeling trades (plumbing, electricity, drywall, and tile) and reasonably handy.

I'm closing on a 15 year old house, with 2,800 sq. ft. of orange / mahogany factory finished maple.

Our original intent was to re-stain the maple a walnut dark brown type color.

I did some research and I now see that maple supposedly does not take stain well due to not being as porous as other woods (like oak).

I've also read you can "dye" the maple instead of staining it.

Has anyone had experience dyeing maple a very dark color?  Did it come out well?

I'm not intending to DIY this project since the cost of the maple is so high (and messing it up is pretty likely as a first timer), but my initial flooring contractor did not mention anything like this and I'm worried the stain will come out mottled and blotchy on maple.


texts:
Last fall (around mid-October), I installed two LED tube lights in a fluorescent fixture--since there were three lights total, it had two LEDs and one fluorescent bulb. A few days ago, I started running into an issue where all three lights in the fixture (not just the LEDs) would suddenly turn off and not turn back on for several hours. I've tried switching around the bulbs and tried running it with just the two LEDs, but with no luck. When I have just the one fluorescent tube in the fixture, though, it works fine.
LED tubes are Philips UniversalFit; fluorescent tube is 32W/48 T8, and the fixture says "use only T8 32W MAX lamps." Ballast is Class P electronic. Based on a cursory Google search it appears that the LED bulbs may be causing the ballast to overheat and disconnect--but if this is the case, I'm not sure why it would take several months to appear.
I live in an apartment, going ballast-free isn't really an option; I'm limited to plug-and-play LEDs. Any suggestions or insights as to what may be going on would be most welcome!


texts:
I completed my first drywall project and I learned that I hate doing drywall.  Apparently I'm not good at it either because when I finally screwed on the outlet covers it is obvious my measurements were off.

What is the best way to fix this?  What is the easiest way to fix this?  What would you recommend?


texts: My Honeywell thermostat just broke. I want to get a new one and install it myself but I don't know whether to get a 24V model or a 120-240v model. There is no indication of this on the one I have. How do I tell?


texts: What size/type wire for a 300ft run from house to shed?

texts:
120V only, 100 amp panel in the shed.  Tying in to meter box at the house.  Six 120V outlets/2 small ceiling fans/can lights and a small 120V plug-in heater.
What wire will result in the electrical inspector saying, "No problem"?


texts:
I was changing some old light switches at a friend's house. The breaker panel wasn't labeled, so I did the bad thing, I tripped the breaker by shorting a hot line to ground. The lights went out, and I swapped out the 3 light switches. But along the way I got a bit of a shock. Sure enough, my tester showed the wires were still live, just not live enough to power lights.

The question - does a tripped breaker still leak a bit, or is this a symptom of a bad breaker? Once I identified the breaker and flipped it on and off, I couldn't detect any leakage.


texts:
We have a bonus room on the top story of our house. The room is built inside the attic; on the other side of every wall is open attic space. I want to use this space to recess our AV equipment in a custom built cabinet; the spot is not load bearing.

The cabinet is 36" x 20" x 20" (HxWxD). I realized the normal width between stud is 16" so I have to accommodate that. I plan to use 1/2" or 3/4" birch plywood from big box, pocket hold jig, and a shelf jig.

Here is where I'm stuck. Do I need to frame out the shelf with 2x4's and lay down dry wall? Or can I build the shelf the width of the stud and join it to the studs? The ladder I would support the back with 2x4 from the floor to roof in the attic. Either way I will need ample insulation around the unit.


texts: How to bury cable with the intention of adding lighting?

texts:
So I am refurbishing a 50 metre long concrete path.

I am burying:

NYY cable run for water pump
NYY cable run for outbuilding
NYY cable run for lighting
2 * PVC water pipes for water to and from pump

The outbuilding is already connected to electricity, so it's just a case of burying the cable, and the water pump is already in place. However I don't have lighting in place for the path, and I haven't really thought about it yet.

So my question is this sensible? Do I need to install some kind of junction boxes so it's easy to connect the cable up to subsequent lighting posts? (I have a second outbuilding that's not connected to electricity currently, I guess this might need a connection subsequently).


texts: What is the max span that can be supported by 2x4 floor joists?

texts:
We had old 2x4 floor joists sitting in our bathroom that we ripped out as they were rotten and falling apart.
2x4 is ideally our limit of thickness, and I was thinking of having 4 or 5 2x4 joists going from one end of the wall to another (147cm / 58") bolted to a 2x4or 2x6 (not sure which one) bearer against all 4 walls. The bearers will be thunderbolted to the brick walls and joist hangers will be used for the 2 by 4s.
I have a very poorly drawn picture from myself to illustrate the 2 by 4 joists. We're thinking about putting the joists 30cm (12") OC.
How much weight can this take? Is this adequate for a room that is 7 ft 9 inches?
Based in the UK.

See a video of the floor.
https://streamable.com/2wbrxk


texts:
Frigidaire FED355 Electric range. Oven and stove-top in use, heard loud 'Phump', and it all goes dead, clock, lights, etc. Warm plastic aroma. Reset breaker. Range top lights, clock, timer now work.

No fault or error codes.

Can set oven temperature or broiler high/ low, relay clicks, but no heat on either element.

Voltage at elements shows 120v to ground from each leg, but 0 between the two legs.

Also, any sources for diagram to remove board? I've pulled most every panel, sides, top, rear, but can't remove front control panel. Thanks.


texts: How can I drill a 2" deep hole, 1/16" in diameter?

texts:
Does a 2" (5 cm) cutting depth 1/16" (1.6 mm) drill bit even exist?  If not, is there any way for me to make this hole?  I'm drilling a fiberglass/foam sandwich if it matters, and I want to make a hundred holes. My cheap standard drill bits cut the fiberglass just fine, but are half the length I need. And yes, I'm aware that the reason they're kept short is so they don't break all the time.

This probably sounds weird – it's for installing a starlight ceiling effect in a fiberglass float tank.


texts: are these mud tunnels from termites or carpenter ants?

texts: I found some (apparently now vacant) "mud tunnels" in a wall void behind some drywall, in an area where water damage had occurred "over a winter."  (This is in Utah FWIW--apparently we have both termites and carpenter ants present).  Any guesses? termites? Carpenter ants? and more .  Thanks!


texts:
I am replacing duplex outlets in my home and have successfully regained power with the outlet but the outlet is no longer controlled by the light switch.
Old outlet

Wiring configuration in the old outlet

New outlet

I have removed the tab that connected the hot side (brass screws).

Thank you for any help as to why the red wire isn’t responding to the switch would be wonderful, thank you!


texts: How long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?

texts:
I put the final skim coat of 90-minute hot mud on the walls this afternoon, how long should I wait before priming?  I've seen everything from overnight to 3 days, and the manufacturer's website doesn't have a number.

Using Sheetrock Brand Easy Sand Lightweight Setting-Type Joint Compound:
http://www.usg.com/sheetrock-easy-sand-lightweight-setting-type-joint-compound.html

Going to use Zinsser 1-2-3 primer if that helps at all.


texts: Impact sprinkler-increasing spray distance as it sprays

texts: Is there an adjustment on impact sprinkler that you can make where it increases the distance as it sprays going  from a short radius to long radius and then back to short radius to long radius and repeating this pattern?


texts: How to control a set of lights with a switch and a subset with another switch

texts: Hey i am installing recessed lights in my bedroom and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on how you would have the main switch power all of the lights but another switch only turn on a few by the closet.


texts:
my main circuit breaker keeps tripping randomly. I have hired an electrical servicing company, they have rewired the Water heater system and installed separate circuit breaker (thinking it could have been the cause) but no change. Now they want to install Ac Isolators with RCD protection (what ever that is).

Is it possible for so-called certified electricians not to figure out the exact cause of this tripping? please advise me


texts: Problems with GFCI outlets recently installed

texts:
I had 3 GFCI outlets installed recently in my home in by a contractor and now have some  lights that do not work at all.  The contractor put one in my kitchen, one in my 2nd floor bathroom and one in my basement.

The light above my kitchen sink would not work, so a relative who has done electrical work over many years spent nearly 3 hours correcting the outlet in the kitchen.  The light above the sink now works, but there is a light switch in the kitchen that turns on a floodlight in the back yard, and it will not work at all.  There are two ceiling lights on my third floor that always worked, but now one will not work at all.  I have never had any problems before with any lights not working, and believe the problem has to do with the outlets not being connected properly, especially since the one my relative spent 3 hours working on was not installed properly.

I called the contractor & explained the situation, but he states that the fact that the lights now don't work at all has nothing to do with what they did.  I would appreciate some insight or advice as to what the cause of the problem may be.


texts:
My toilet bowl is leaking water continuously. See video here: https://youtu.be/khD7VKbWoTo

I cleaned the flapper and put it back, and it doesn't seem to be the issue. Even if I hold the flapper down, the water continues to flow. Any suggestions on what I should try?


texts: My plaster ceiling is cracking and the advice I’ve gotten is to cover it with dry wall. The issue I’m having is how to locate the joists in the ceiling. Is there an easy way to do this to make sure the drywall is safely secured?


texts: Does IRC 2012 Code allow water lines in exterior wall?

texts: New construction, 2x6 exterior wall in a basement walkout. Does the IRC code or any plumbing code prohibit installation of water and drain lines in an exterior wall?  We want to put a vanity sink against an exterior wall in the basement. House is not built yet. We are in the planning stage for blue prints. No contractor yet. Don't want to plan for something we can't have.


texts: What screws to use to attached tie-downs from shed roof rafters to top sill?

texts: What screws should I  use to attached tie-downs from shed roof rafters to top sill?


texts:
The repair man says that leaks are most common in a place that is not repairable without using leak sealant, which would void a warranty and his company doesn't offer that service. My system is using R-22. I feel like I should call another company that is willing to try the sealant before replacing my system with one that uses R-401a. However, if the best option is to get a new system, I'd rather hurry up and get it over with.

Can someone tell me what is common practice for evaporator coil replacement?


texts: Refrigerator big temperature difference between bottom and top shelf

texts:
I feel that my refrigerator is under-performing. I have the thermostat set to the coldest position, waited 24 hours, and with a thermometer it reads 4c on the lowest shelf, and between 8c and 9c at the top shelf.

However, when I checked another fridge, that measured around 4c at the bottom, and 5c at the top.

Do some fridges show bigger temperature differences top to bottom than others, or dies it sound like I have a problem?

So far I have:

Checked that the light is not staying on.
Checked that the door seal does not have any splits.
Checked the condenser coils at the back of the unit - they are very clean.
Switched the unit off for a few minutes and then back on in case that resets anything.

The integrated freezer (which is underneath the refrigerator) seems to be working perfectly.

Do I need to call someone out, or is there anything else I could check myself?


texts: How to connect backyard cover to existing roof?

texts:
This is an image I found on the internet

My roof in the backyard is very similar where it sloping down toward the yard. I want to make the cover like the photo.

Few questions:

From the photo, look like they put the new roof of the cover ON TOP of the existing roof? How does water get run off?
Is the gutter still there under the new roof of the cover?
How to do this correctly? I am not sure if the photo shows a correct way of doing this.

Thanks

UPDATE 1:

Option 1:

I like the glass design. But thinking of using lumber instead of metal frame. Look like this will require cutting into the existing overhang. I also saw a little pipe pointing to the left side. How does the water escaping out of there? Also it seems "flat".

Option 2:

This option seems "correct" in term of slope and water escape. But how do I frame the "white triangle" portion below the patio? Is it just siding material?


texts: I have a piece of scrap 2x4 lumber that I was planning to use until I saw these little tunnel markings. Any idea what insect/creature made them?  And is there any way to tell if it's still infested? And is it safe to actually use this 2x4?


texts: I'm planning on adding a plywood floor to part of my attic. I have some old carpet that I'm thinking about laying on top of the plywood. Is this a bad idea?


texts: Can you have 2 junction boxes on one 12/3 cable run

texts: I have s question about junction boxes. Can i have 2 junction boxes on on cable of romex? One box is to give additional length and the second box is to provide power to receptacle. If i can’t i will have to run a new cable from fuse panel, cut out sheet rock, ect. Thanks for the help Dean


texts: Replace Circuit Breaker on Split Bus Panel

texts: I want to add a 50 amp 220V circuit breaker to my split bus panel to supply a welder. I have two options. One option is to use the empty slot (blue arrow) or replace the spare 220v breaker that is currently not doing anything (red arrow). If I understand correctly, both options will keep me in compliance with the 6 throw rule. The "problem" is that both option are above the split (dashed green line) and are always hot because I don't have a main disconnect. My questions are (1) how do I replace these circuit breakers safely and which option would be better (red arrow or blue arrow). Thanks.


texts: Standard measures for buildings in the US?

texts:
I've been looking for a reference guide on standard measures for common building elements in the US. That includes:

Standard ceiling height
Standard wall thickness
Standard door dimensions
Standard window dimensions (single, double, etc)

Does anyone know where I can get such information?


texts: What are the potential hazards of converting to a saltwater pool?

texts: We are thinking of converting our pool from chlorine to saltwater, but we've heard and read some things about possible issues with the lining or other things breaking down over time due to the salt. Not sure if this just counter-marketing from chlorine pool people, or if it is legitimate. Does anyone have any info on real problems encountered with saltwater pools or if special material is needed to encase saltwater in a saltwater pool.


texts:
My 12 years old Viking VGSC3676BSSLP (built July 2008) free standing range oven is broken. The oven bake and broiler burners just won’t fire up. Oven igniter sparks fine and the DSI module tested ok during troubleshoot. But there is no gas flowing to either oven burner. Top 6 range burners work just fine.
The normally closed oven solenoid gas valve has no continuity and my take is that it is stuck shut (thus no gas flow to the oven) and it needs to be replaced. Problem is the printed text on the valve has no resemblance to actual Viking part numbers. It says 2W13G-0083-00 and 54 VDC. Local shops don't seem to carry a replacement and I haven't been able to find anything on the web either. I hope someone here could point me in the right direction. Attached please find some pictures for reference.
Thanks,
Guillermo


texts: I'm wanting to run wire from power main box to another box to power my garage and then put lights plugs to run power tools what size wire should I use from main box to garage box it will be about 75' to 100'


texts: How can I figure out why my garage door opener won't close the door?

texts:
I detached the the door arm from the carriage to see if the opener would work properly, but it did not. The carriage goes down a half an inch and then goes all the way back up. I also adjusted the safety reverse to all possible configurations and that made no difference.

The opener is a Genie Screw Drive - Series G


texts: Is it feasible for one person to level a 12ft wide concrete foundation slab on their own?

texts:
I need to build a concrete foundation measuring about 4.9m x 3.7m (16ft x 12ft). I'll make the formwork and then get a company to lay the concrete for me. The concrete will be deep enough not to require to be laid into bays.

I won't have a helper. Is it feasible to level such a large area of concrete on my own, either by standing in it and moving a screed board as I walk backwards or by standing to the side and bull floating it?


texts: How to fix cut romex line that was cut before receptacle

texts: Can the romex be spliced in line and then shrink wrapped ? Or  bring receptacle outletbox closer to cut line.


texts: Connection for range hood from 8" circular to 10"x3.5" rectangular

texts:
I am installing a new range hood for our kitchen. The duct exhaust at the top is 8" circular, but our old vent to outside is 10"x3.5" rectangular. I see what we could usually use a register boot but there is not enough space between the exhaust and the vent. The wall vent is just 1-2inches above the exhaust vent flange.

Is there a different HVAC part I could use? Could I build my own from metal or ductboard?

thanks


texts: Can I leave my home's water shut off overnight without damaging the heaters?

texts: We were trying to do a job ourselves and don't have what we need to finish installing a new vanity in the bathroom.  Shut the water off to install new sink and now can't turn it back on because we don't have what we need to connect the line to the sink correctly.  Are we ok to leave the main water line shut off overnight or is this going to mess with the hot water or gas heating systems?  help!


texts:
Our deck that runs along the lake has a trek railing, top and bottom railings and main posts. We installed vertical black metal balusters. It has been sagging now for awhile. We tried placing blocks underneath but top railings sagged.
We took down all the railings to repair but not sure what to do. We want to rework what we have to save money. Also, we want to put posts on top of the decking. Is that safe? Just FYI. Our decking runs the length of the water, maybe 50 feet and is about 3’ wide.


texts: Connecting 12ga wire to 14ga that is connected to 15 amp breaker

texts: I have a ceiling fan and 1 porch light that is connected directly  to a 15 amp breaker. It was installed using 14-2 wire. Then, I have a small basement area that has a 1 light and 4 outlets that I want to power with the same circuit breaker, but this room was wired with 12-2 wire and was covered with finished walls. Question: Can the 12-2 wire be connected to the 14-2 wire, in a junction box, to power the basement.  The 12-2 won't be connected to the 15 amp breaker, the 14-2 will be.


texts: Is it ok to lower grade around a well head instead of raising it?

texts: I recently learned that well heads should be about a foot or more about ground; ours is only about 3-4" above ground. The well drillers said we really should have it raised and have a better cap put on. This all makes sense but raising it is apparently quite costly. Would it be just as well to dig around the well head to increase the distance from the top of the well head to the ground? We already have a cover that goes all around it to prevent larger animals getting into the well head.


texts: Why is foam coming out of the kitchen drain while washing dishes?

texts:
I am in Saudi Arabia using FAIRY liquid dish washer to clean my dishes after meals. Every time I observe that the foam is coming out of the drainage located at the kitchen floor during my cleaning of the dirty dishes with FAIRY lemon liquid dish washer.

What is the problem? Why does this foam (bubble while color) come out every time I wash my dirty dishes? What should I do to get rid of this?


texts: was this vent flashing installed totally wrong?

texts: Just bought the house and I don't really know anything about roof work. After some stormy days we noticed a ceiling water spot. A vent flashing is the most likely culprit far as I can tell; there are other vents but they don't appear to have any issues. The problem one was not nailed or caulked to anything; it can wiggle freely with hand force. The collar part was slightly inverted around the pipe, allowing water to pool right at the seam, whereas things I've read indicate that area should be caulked too. Is there a circumstance that would make it right to leave the whole thing unsecured, or did someone screw up?


texts: How do I dig a fence post hole in a cramped corner?

texts:
In the corner of my yard 4 other neighbors’ fences meet. At that junction there is no post they are all just nailed into eachother.

One side has a double fence. Old residents of my house didnt want to repair the rotten section so the neighbors just built a small section on their side.

I am tearing down the rotten fence and just leaving the neighbors fence up. The problem is that there is no corner post. So I need to dig a hole and put one in.

Simple task but its in the corner behind my shed. Theres about 2 feet from the shed to fence on either side.

How would I go about digging this hole for the corner post with very limited range of motion with a post hole digger or auger?

Attached is a sketch of the area.
Red circle=dig hole.
Brown=fence thats staying up
Orange=rotten fence to tear down

Please help. Thank you.


texts: Load Bearing wall running parallel to floor joists above?

texts:
So I have a wall I would like to remove in my house (see picture 1-3). I did some exploratory surgery (aka cut holes) in the drywall to see what I was dealing with. This wall is running parallel to the floor joists above (see picture 4): score +1 for being non-load bearing.

However there is a large double 2X10 header above the entry way (see picture 4) in this wall supported by a jack stud on either end (see picture 5): score +1 for being load bearing.

I thought long and hard at what this might possibly be supporting. The house is  two stories resting on a concrete block foundation (so three floors if you count the basement). The floor in question is on the middle/first/ground floor. Above this wall I want to remove, is another wall on the second floor offset by ~4 inches from the joist directly above the wall I would like to remove on the first floor. The wall above on the second floor is definitely supporting a portion of an A-frame (not truss) roof above (see picture 6). So is it possible that the wall I want to remove with the header on the first floor is also helping support the roof through the wall on the second floor?

To simplify: my question has two parts:

1) Is this a load bearing wall?

2) If the wall is load bearing, how would I temporarily support the joist above (to install a longer spanned header) since it is running parallel to the floor joists above?

Thanks for your input!

*Update 8/7/18 I ended up knocking this wall out with no issues. I dont believe the wall was load bearing because there were 2 sistered 2X10 above this wall with a span of 9 feet between supports I put in a LAM beam adjacent the overhead joists just to be safe.  Now there's two sistered 2X10s with another 2 sistered 2X10 Lams up there. I'm sure this was overkill.


texts:
I have an older house with lots of pinhole leaks in the copper pipes.  From what I have been told, you have to replace the pipes, copper or PEX or maybe something else.  I am trying to avoid the ~$10k to do this, not that it is not worth that or that people shouldn't be paid, but it is a lot for me.
Can I replace the copper a little bit at time, maybe one bathroom, a kitchen and a hammer arrestor to stuff, etc.?  Do I have to go in full throttle with manifold and do it all at once?  I'm concerned on some of it because copper comes out of the water tank, and I don't know if I can mix things up down the line, or if I have to start at the tank with PEX, then I have the Pressure/expansion tank.


texts:
I have a "blacklight" to check for dirt and noticed the water in the toilet bowl and a sinkful of water in the same bathroom had a distinct greenish color?  I poured a lot of bleach into the toilet to clean in out and the water then looked colourless under the blacklight (with the bleach).  After cleaning and flushing a couple of times, I was looking at that greenish water again under the blacklight.
This is actually serious because I am quite ill and one of the bacterial infections I have has some ability to fluoresce. I tried to get some information but it was way over my head and I don't know where else to turn at this point.

I suppose my question would be: what is the normal color of water when it is exposed to a blacklight? Should it change at all and if it does, is there something to be concerned with? Your help will be much appreciated.


texts: Is this true about circuit breakers being out of phase in a house?

texts:
I just read this on another message board:

  If you know which breaker each outlet is on, it's easy. Breakers that
  are directly adjacent to each other (above/below or left/right) are on
  different legs. Breakers that are diagonal are on the same leg.

Is this true?


texts: What is a 'normal' time for water to completely drain out of a shower pan?

texts:
I installed a new shower with slimline tray. Now when I am showering there is a fair build up of water in the tray.  Nothing major or overflowing, but not quite perfect.
As a gauge, when I stop the shower flow it takes about 11 seconds for the water to drain away completely.

Is this normal or I am being paranoid and installed a dud?


texts: What is an internally regulated power generator?

texts:
I am looking to add a backup generator to a 10 HP Franklin Electric water well. According to the manual, I can have a significantly reduced size generator if the generator is "internally regulated." Problem is that all the generator vendors I talk to don't know what this means. What power generators are "internally regulated"?
Reference to the backup generator section in the Franklin Electric manual (page 5) is here. https://franklinwater.com/media/123990/Page-5.pdf


texts:
I have a handful of electrical outlets that went dead. I have a Kolsol F02 wire locator that I used to identify the circuit breaker they are on, and it seems like I have connectivity from the breaker to the each wire/screw on (assumed) first outlet, from the first to the last outlet, and from there back to the breaker. I also verified the circuit breaker passes all 240v when on.
They seem to be the only thing on this circuit, since I can't find anything else that isn't working with the breaker turned off.
So, I don't know what to do next.


texts: Should I cap off my clogged kitchen pipe at the wall or after the p-trap?

texts:
A member of my household thought our garbage disposal was a magic ray gun that obliterated anything poured down its black hole. The plumber cleared a glue-like substance from the pipes underneath the sink with a screwdriver but his auger barely penetrated 5 inches into the main wall pipe that leads to the sewer. I cannot afford to have my pipes cut out and new ones installed so I was just going to use the sink in the basement to clean dishes.

So which is the better option so sewage fumes do not overrun my house:

Easy option: Cap off the sink hole & garbage disposal.
Remove all the pipes under sink & garbage disposal and cap off main pipe at wall.
Leave the P-Trap and cap the pipe off after that.


texts: we have blue water and think something is corroding the copper pipes. Have recirculators. Problem started after flushing with chlorine and now flushed with sodium bicarb. Ideas?


texts: Can I replace this switch with a dimmer?

texts:
I recently moved into a new rental. It is older construction but was completely remodeled. I did some some older wiring in the basement but the functional wiring seems to be new and modern code/procedure.

This switch doesn't make sense. The hot (black) comes from a nearby outlet. It then has the white connected and going to the ceiling light. However the other wires in each pair are capped.

The wire on the top of the box looks to be much older and wrapped in insulation. No ground either.

Can I just wire the dimmer (Levity IllumaTech IPL06) into this the same way?


texts:
I am looking to answer the following:
Was this job done properly, and if not, then how really bad it is? And should I hire this contractor again ?

Product:
Ruud RGTM10ERBJS 100K BTU 95% Downflow/Horizontal Gas Furnace...

I have this furnace installed about five years ago. We only installed furnace, but but the contractor we choose arranged everything for AC to be installed. I trusted the contractor, and liked to have business with him.

We want to install AC now. We only need top add the compressor unit and refrigeration lines. I decided to get several quotes, but I thought I shall most likely hire my previous contractor, if the difference won't be that big.

Now, a few other contractors gave me a much higher quote than I am considering to spend. They also mentioned that ventilation lines are not installed properly to my current unit. And that permit could not pass an inspection like that, and the permit is most likely not finaled.
I checked, the permit seems to be finaled. I also checked instructions, and it clearly says that ventilation pipes should preferably go vertically up 90 degrees, or have one inch increase for every few feet. My vents go a little down to the wall, and then go outside.

I asked my contractor about it, and he said he should have been creative to create it, to avoid bringing vent through my fragile roof with defected shingles, and to pass inspection. Well, the permit shows that he passed it.

I called the city and asked to come back to me intending to ask them why city accepted the work if the instructions for AC clearly state something which was not done.

I understand that everyone trying to compete on the market, and trying to convince me to make business with them. But this defect was mentioned by two unrelated contractors. And, I'd like to have business with someone who I already know. However, if the previous project was done poorly, I do not want to continue on that pass. I have pictures and even videos of my furnace. I can email them if required. I would appreciate an advice from uninterested party on the matter.

Additional pictures and videos at Google Drive Share


texts: Can I install a subpanel using only two ungrounded (hot) conductors and a grounding conductor?

texts: we removed the inside part of an air conditioner / heater from a mobile home. we plan to use this area as a small pantry. The wires that were connected to the heater is 2 black connected to 2 seperate breakers and a ground wire. There wasn't a white wire in the bundle. I would like to use this to add a small sub panel so that it could feed an outlet and a light switch to power light strips inside the pantry. How do you wire this to a sub panel with only 2 hot wires and a ground?


texts: Buying a home. Renovating a bathroom with concrete slab for a floor. Specifically need to move the toilet at least 12" to the right. After the toilet is moved we'll install a LONG 2 sink vanity. I do NOT want to cut another hole in the slab and would like to avoid putting the toilet on a raised wood platform. My thought was to move the toilet over 12" and plumb it in back over to the existing closet drain and then the new vanity will cover that piping. There, easy and all I need to do is find a toilet that would allow me to do that. So my research showed me a left hand discharge drain toilet. It has the discharge hole coming out the left side of the toilet horizontally about 6" +/- above the floor. Cool, I thought, but I can't seem to find anywhere that sells them in the USA. So then I thought I'd go with a back discharge toilet but the ones I found have to be attached to the wall. Any ideas would be much appreciated...Thanks


texts: How can I sand the underside of an enamel sink?

texts:
we need clearance to install stem valves because the faucet hole was drilled too close to the sink.  We need about 1/2" extra clearance.
The counter top guys drilled too close to the sink and did not leave clearance for the stem valves.  I'm afraid if I sand the enamel sink, underside that it might crack the sink.


texts: How should I tidy up loose speaker wires?

texts:
I have surround sound speakers with the speaker wires going up through the wall. The wire is fixed and doesn't slide in and out the wall.

Now it's time to tidy it up!

How much loose wire should I leave?
How can I tidy up the loose wire?

Click for larger view


texts: Connecting a single audio device to multiple outputs for whole house speaker system

texts:
Edited title and updated description:
I have found an speaker distribution panel that I think will work to connect all the outputs to a single input. I would just need to know how to connect the input.

Original post:
I've just moved into a new house that has a built-in speaker system, but the inputs for the rooms are these 4-pole audio connectors that I have never used before. I would like to simply plug in an old phone with an audio app installed and have that play through the house.
There are connectors for each of the rooms. The bare wires are for the main living space.
What equipment can I get to connect all the speakers together to a simple 3.5mm jack without having to splice more wires together? Or is there a better way to wire everything together? I'm not opposed to some work, but I don't even know if the speakers work yet. For now, I'm looking for fast and cheap; good can come later.


texts: How should I connect my new light fixture to three bundled whites?

texts: Old ceiling light fixture had three bulbs. There are one black and three white wires in box. Whites are twisted together. Do I wire the one white to the connected three whites?


texts: Was this part of roof and eaves done right?

texts: Look in pictures below. This section of roof was open before and we asked if it could be covered.  We are getting a new roof and roofer said no problem and this was his solution.  However, his roofers made the eaves uneven, they don't match up.  I don't know how this is going to work with the gutters we are having installed next.  It has taken the company a full week, even the weekend, to do this roofing job. Was it done right?  Would you be happy with this?  Is it normal to have an eave hang lower? How would you fix this and would you pay this guy?  My husband thinks it's fine, but he has found other problems with the roof as well.  I think it's shoddy work.  Should I make a complaint to bbb?  Contractor only came first day of work to see roofers working. Thank you for any input.


texts:
There's an issue with our en suite shower that is currently puzzling us, and our plumber.

Our en suite shower is making a high pitched 'squealing' sound after about a minute of operation, this is accompanied by an apparent loss of pressure, as the water comes out at a slower rate.

To make it slightly more complicated, it seems to only be at certain temperatures. I have a warm shower, rather than hot, and that's when it occurs. My wife has a hot shower (ridiculously hot in fact, steam everywhere) and it doesn't affect her.

However to make things really confusing, if I have a shower on warm before my wife, and then she has hers, the issue will likely occur for her too.

And finally, we've found if we run the tap in our en suite sink at a decent rate whilst the shower is on, it fixes the problem.

We have 2 showers in our house, and altogether 4 sinks, along with a washing machine that is piped in, and none of them have any issues with water flow.

Our plumber replaced the shower [head], but that didn't help, and actually seemed to make it worse, with it occurring pretty much immediately. The shower [head] he replaced ours with has since worked fine in another house.

He did say our water pressure is extremely high, and indeed when we turn a tap on the water shoots out, so he wasn't sure if that had anything to do with it.  He's stumped and he's now asking around to see if anyone he knows might have any ideas.

I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem, and has any ideas how to solve it?

Our house is only about 10 years old (we've been in it about 3 years), and we've only had this problem for the last 6 months or so without anything obvious changing.

I should probably mention that I'm not great with DIY, so explaining in layman's terms might be best.


texts: Circuit Breaker Finder always beeps on certain breakers

texts:
When looking for a particular circuit today, I found a couple breakers that just always beep, and at a different frequency (faster) than the Sperry transmitter does.

What would cause the circuit to broadcast a signal the receiver would interpret as the transmitter pulse?


texts: How can I remove paint from slotted screw heads?

texts:
What techniques work to dig layers of paint out of small slotted screw heads,
when the slot is so full of paint a screwdriver won't work?

I've tried an awl, utility knife and screwdriver/hammer.  These all work, but are tedious when there are a lot of them.

See also: How can I extract rusted/painted outdoor screws? or How do I remove calcification from a screw head?


texts:
I am preparing to replace most if not all of the wiring in our house.  It is old, some of it is dangerous, and almost none of it is grounded.  For some time I have been interested in home automation, and one of the things that I would like to accomplish with this electrical refit is to install some consumption monitoring.

Now I have seen some products that essentially clamp a current meter to the wire coming out of the circuit breaker and then that plugs into a little box that can be queried by software to get current load on the line.  This is all well and good but it looks like that gets really crowded in the load center real fast, and is really geared toward people who do not want to buy new breakers/load center, etc.

I am replacing both, and I am on the lookout for some kind of breaker that can not only trip under higher load conditions, but also report the load at any given time.

I saw these Square D breakers that are part of the Wiser Energy product line, but the literature makes it sound like the monitoring they do is specifically for power outage situations where power source needs to be switched from grid to backup or something.

Has anyone encountered load center and circuit breaker products that meter the current and can report (either by custom software or supplied software)?


texts: What should I do about my toilet flapper sticking open?

texts: The flapper valve in the toilet in my apartment was recently replaced, since it had a small leak. The new one has a perfectly good seal, but sometimes just gets stuck open. It looks like it's just gripping a bit too tightly on the hinge - when  it tries to close, it moves partway down and just hangs there, and a little jiggle of the lever is enough to make it drop. What should I do about it?


texts: I have 3 wires coming into a 3 way switch. I connected the hot black wire to the brass screw on the left side of the switch. I connected the red traveler wire to the black screw on the right side of the switch  opposite the brass screw. I connected the white traveler wire to the brass screw on the top of the right side of the switch. The five lights in the circuit will then go on and off with the operation of the switch. The light fixtures are wired to the switch utilizing the white and red traveler wires. My problem is I cannot get the other 3 way switch to function no matter what wiring combination I try. I would like to know the correct way to wire the second switch. Two things to note. There were two 4 way switches in the circuit. I took those switches out of the circuit by wiring the two red wires together, in each box, and doing the same with the white wires. The other note is that there is no current going to the second switch no matter how I connect the wires. Am I not connecting a load to the circuit at the second switch?


texts: Merging water softener drain line to water heater relief valve drain line

texts: I'm wanting to install a water softener. Can I merge the drain pipe from the softener with the line coming from the relief valve on the top of the water heater? I'm concerned about the elevation of where I would need to merge the pipe, in respect to the exit port on the softener.


texts: What information do I need to give a general contractor to get a good quote?

texts:
I'm looking to do some major renovations:

removing an interior wall
removing popcorn ceilings
new kitchen (layout, appliances, counters, cabinets, etc)
new master bath
new flooring throughout
new trim throughout
recessed lighting in kichen and living room

I have a vision, but nothing on paper. Do I need to hire an architect to draw up plans to get decent quotes from general contractors? Is this possible without knowing the exact materials (cabinets, counter tops, etc) I intend to use?


texts: How do I install a ceiling fan with remote control when there are separate switches for the fan and light?

texts: Our house was wired for ceiling fans. Currently there is only a light there. I purchased a Casablanca isotope 5000 series ceiling fan with wall transmitter.  So, we have 2 wall switches.  One for the light and the other for the fan. Which one should I use for the transmitter?


texts: Identify furance/cooling system from wiring?

texts:
Is there any way to tell the heating/cool system you have from the wiring? I have a Honeywell th6320wf02 that was correctly working and then I accidentally overwrote its system type. It's wired like this:

It's an apartment so I speculate it's a heat pump and the breaker box has breaks labelled fan coil and condesner.


texts: Samsung automatic washing machine going off and on automatically!

texts:
I have Samsung automatic washing machine just 3 years old.  It is getting auto off during the washing cycle and again gets on in few seconds and again goes off.  What should be the problem?
We called service center and their guy checked the machine and it worked just fine yesterday noon. And now its giving same problem today. Please suggest


texts: My son was hanging on the towel rack in the bathroom and tore it off the wall.  Is it possible to fill and rehang the towl rack in the same place.  I could move it down a few inches and hang into new drywall but then i have two white patches on a blue wall and dont have any touch up paint.


texts:
I built a bed for my son out of Pine (from plans on the internet.)  I am going to paint it white.  What kinds of preparation do I need to do to the wood, especially considering the 4 posts are from pressure-treated pine -- the kind of wood you use on a deck that you buy from Home Depot that probably is treated to keep away insects and repel moisture.

Sanding - how fine? 220 grit?

Anything after sanding like a sealant?


texts: Is there any way to stop a low-profile desk from racking back and forth?

texts:
When I remodeled my house I had left over granite from the kitchen. I had the mason cut a piece for a built-in desk in a dormer. He first cut and polished a piece that wasn't the right size. I kept it with the intention of building a desk / table out of it in the future. I have now done that and the table looks just like I wanted it to - very minimalist - but there is a slight racking (swaying) side-to-side that I'd love to correct. I don't see any movement at all between the tops of the legs and the wood when it's racking, but I have to assume it's coming from this table-leg connection and not from an unlevel floor. The legs have adjustable feet that haven't helped.
I bought pre-build metal, rectangular tube steel legs. They're rated to hold 220lbs each. I connected them with flat-faced hurricane bolts to 3/4" plywood at 62" x 28" to fit under the granite. I then added a piece of 1x6 nominal hardwood across the belly to connect the legs and support the table. Outside of the wood I mentioned, the legs are independent.
With this setup (before the granite), I could sit on it without issue. There was still some racking, but I'm 240lbs. So, adding the 120lb granite weight didn't seem to be an issue. I now have had the granite just sitting on the plywood without any adhesive. It's been sturdy for 2 weeks.

Could someone please give me some ideas on how to possibly remove the racking without fundamentally changing the look of the table? If it can't be done, I'll live with it like it is.
I have come up with adding flat, angle braces in the corners to possible sturdy up the leg-table connection. I also thought of cutting 62" x 2" x 1/4" steel to bolt directly to the 2 legs to stabilize them from moving independently of each other.  Like I said, I could probably add a skirt or some other boards or metal around the outside of the legs to make it not rack, but that would defeat the purpose of what I'm trying to do since I wanted a desk that I could work from one side and someone else could work from the other side.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


texts:
I have a single pole switch that feeds power to a wall socket.

with the switch ON, and the wire that feeds the switch disconnected from the socket, the point on the switch shows 120V.
with the switch OFF and the wire that feeds the switch disconnected from the socket, the point on the switch shows 0V
So, the switch seems to be working
However with the wire that feeds to the socket connected to the switch, the voltage drops to 0V at that connection point when the switch is turned on

nothing is connected to the socket

HELP


texts: Wiring a bilge pump with different size wires

texts: Wanting to wire a bilge pump in a boat directly to battery.  Bilge pump has 12 gauge wires.  Two brown wires going to a three way toggle (one is for manual operation, other is for auto operation).  From switch I want to put in an inline fuse (5 amp) but I can only find a 16 gauge inline fuse.  So I thought I would connect the brown wires to the switch, then connect the 16 gauge inline fuse to the switch and heat sink it to a 14 gauge red wire to positive battery terminal.  12 gauge black wire from pump would heat sink with butt splice directly to 14 gauge black wire that would connect to battery.  Is this safe or do I need to find a 12 gauge inline fuse holder and use 12 gauge wire throughout?


texts: Can I use steel framing in a shower enclosure

texts: Turned onto steel framing by a coworker. Part of a wall will extend into a shower enclosure. I will be putting green board over it and then tiling. The coworker seemed to recall using steel in a shower enclosure was problematic due to temperature changes. Anyone have any experience using this and comment further one way or another in regards to using steel framing for a shower? In addition, does anybody see a problem with sheetrocking a ceiling over existing sheetrock? If I pull the existing sheetrock down I have this powdery insulation that is about 2 feet deep that will create a massive mess as it comes raining down.


texts: Why is my Troy-Bilt 5500 watt generator blowing exhaust back through the carb and muffler? If its a backfire, then its doing it on every stroke!

texts: I've checked the valve gap and all is well but on every stroke I have exhaust coming back through the carb. Not just a little, almost as if it were the muffler! Engine runs rough obviously and stumbles hard with the filter on until it eventually dies but with it off, it continues to run and run loud with this issue. Any ideas?


texts:
My nest thermostats are missing a common wire which means they’re not getting enough power to work properly. I actually didn’t realize this until an electrician told me about it (it hadn’t become a problem yet), but now it has and I brought him back in since he indicated he could do the work for $100 which seemed pretty reasonable. It turns out I need to add a new relay and now the price has gone way up so I’m going to try doing it myself.
I’m hoping someone can help me understand why I need a new relay and if this is something I can reasonably do myself. I’ve done some limited electrical work, but this is a bit advanced for my experience. If someone can help me better understand this system I imagine it’s something I could do myself, but perhaps it’s better left to a professional?
The white-coated wire here is a new wire since one of the two zones was a two wire and had to be replaced. There are actually three zones here, but I am only using nest thermostats on two of them at the moment (but it couldn’t hurt to future proof it). The two pre-existing ones are hot-water heat and the one I’m adding is steam heat. The brown-coated wires already have three wires. The green wire is being used as the common wire.
Here is the setup
High level view of the side - the brown and white wires are coming in from above. You can see the existing relay and transformer here.

relay

transformer and you can also see here there’s a Honeywell box that the white and red wires on the bottom of the relay run to - I’m guessing that’s for the hot water heat?

That brown wire that runs to the Honeywell part (not sure what that is?) then runs along with the white wire to the oil burner here:

Some additional images in case there’s anything I missed:


texts: Determine if wire in switch box is safe to re-purpose?

texts:
I need to pull a neutral wire to my light switch for a smart switch.  It's presently switching an outlet that I don't need switched, and the other side of the outlet already has unswitched power.  My plan is to use a smart switch, which requires neutral, to control a different device wirelessly.

I can't feasibly run a new wire, because the wires aren't run through conduit.  Instead, my plan is to repurpose the switched wire to get neutral from the outlet.

The switch, which controls an outlet has two wires, one black and one red.  The switched outlet has a white neutral wire, plus the red and black wires that I assume run directly to the switch.

I've completely disconnected the red and black wires from the outlet and the switch.  The black wire is measuring 120V AC when measured against ground using the box as ground, both at the outlet and at the switch. Using my DMM, the red wire is measuring 24V AC with respect to the box/ground at both sides.  I assume this is a ghost voltage caused by induction from the charged black wire over to the floating red wire.

Our house is ~100 years old and this particular switch seems to be run using armored cable (note the paper wrap around each wire.)  There are literally only two wires in the switch box; no wire nuts.

If relevant, we do have some old knob and tube wiring active, but I'm pretty confident there's none on this circuit.

Is there some way I can determine with enough confidence that the red wire isn't connected elsewhere such that I can know it's safe to connect the red wire at the outlet to netural?


texts: Will I be able to run a duct over the wall to a soffit vent for a bathroom fan?

texts:
I have a small bathroom with exterior walls in an area of my home with a vaulted ceiling (and thus no attic access.) When I moved in, the exhaust fan was uselessly "exhausting" directly into a fiberglass batt.

I'm hesitant to cut a hole in my roof to exhaust the fan properly, but if I go a few more feet I think I can access the soffit area and place a vent there. What I'm not familiar with is whether or not I can expect some kind of obstruction between the roof joists over the exterior wall.

This is a rough sketch of what I intend to do - however, before I go yanking the existing insulation out from between my rafters to make room for the flex duct, can anyone tell me if this makes sense? Should I be able to snake a flex duct between the rafters and into the void between the soffit and overhang?


texts: Can i use 8 gauge wire with 10 gauge ground with double 50 amp breaker

texts: So i bought 8 gauge 3 wire for my stove but after installing i seen it was 10 gauge ground wire with the wite and black being 8 gauge. Will it make a difference?


texts: How to fix a crack in the corner of an outside wooden lamp post

texts:
What is the best way to fix this wooden light post?
I was thinking clamps and glue.
Or maybe a nail?
[![enter image description here][1]][1]
[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3S3lF.jpg![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m20hY.jpg)


texts: What Size Toilet Flange for 3 1/2" ABS Pipe?

texts:
I'm trying to purchase the correct toilet flange but having difficulty.

The bathroom was roughed in years ago in ABS and we are trying to finish it out. As a I measure the toilet waste pipe, it measures 3 1/2" inches from outside edge to outside edge. The inner diameter (inner edge to inner edge) is more like 3 1/8"+. So, we are close to 3", but it is still slightly wider than 3".

The last flange I purchased advertised itself as "able to fit INTO a 3" ABS waste pipe", however it was in actuality the exact same diameter, so it did not insert into the pipe... it just sat on top and was of course no help.

Before I make yet another trip back to the store, I wasn't sure if there was any wisdom out there on the best product to go with given my situation and pipe measurements. Or perhaps I'm not understanding the terminology

Thanks.


texts: Repair path - leaking bathroom drain and drywall damage

texts:
New home owner. Wife took a bath in the guest bathroom and this water damage showed up an hour later on ceiling from the first floor. I'm assuming it's the bathroom drain and removed/inspected an old/broken seal. I suspect that's all the problem was with the pipes but she wants me to have someone check it out for additional damage and I don't want to spend more money than necessary on folks coming out.

Does the drywall all need to come out regardless?
Would I have a plumber or general contractor come in first to look?
Should I contact insurance after having one of the above spot check it or should I be contacting them first. I think I have a $500 or 1000 deductible, need to check..


texts: Fixtures will not run hot water unless another fixture is on

texts:
We have a unit upstairs in a 4-plex. The other units don't have any issues, but hot water recently stopped working in this apartment. Sometimes water might get warm but goes cold again. When the plumbers came and we played around with the fixtures we found out that the sink in the bathroom would get hot if the shower was on. When we turned off the shower/tub valve the sink water lost heat. I believe it was the same with the kitchen sink, but I could not figure out when or how to get the shower hot. The plumbers were also dumbfounded but one thought something was wrong with the shower valve and wanted to replace the cartridge. Logically, I'm not sure how that would effect the other fixtures, but I don't know what the problem is either. Another plumber didn't know what to do.

I noticed that the shower valve was installed backwards i.e. the valve is off when it is supposed to be hot and vice versa. That is in line with what the first plumber said, but again, how could that be causing, or allowing the other fixtures to get hot water? won't reversing the valve still mean that the other fixtures will still be dependent on that valve when they should be independent from it?

-Frustrated Apartment Dweller


texts: How do I pressurize an old tank with no air valve m


texts: This reddish-brown thing came up over 4 months. Is this mould or something else entirely? We found this under our latex mattress protector and that has a little bit of it too.


texts:
I am looking to install radiant heating in my single-family house (300 sq. ft.), and I am primarily interested in hydronic radiant because my calculated heat loss is likely around 10kBTU/hr, which is within the capability of my existing tankless water heater (saving me some money on setup). I can also take advantage of solar water heating and storage to help offset the heating (and cooling) cost, and SWH is less expensive than solar electric generation. Additionally, the cost to install electric radiant would be significantly higher, making an electric option more expensive up front and over time.

So with hydronic radiant in mind, I would like to know what peoples' experiences have been with ceiling hydronic radiant heating, and what tips/tricks help them work at their best.

I have played around with hydronic floor radiant, but the problem is that I don't have crawlspace access, the floor is uninsulated, and any solution (short of redoing the subfloor) will add at least 1-2" to my floor height, which is a problem.

I recently read that radiant ceilings (and walls) do exist and that they can work well, but I am skeptical since I have never encountered one. The benefit would be that such a solution would simply sit under the attic insulation I will add anyway, so it doesn't take up any more space. I can also add insulation above my subfloor without worrying about having a hydronic system on top of that too.


texts: toilet is constantly running water to tank but won’t fill

texts: My toilet is constantly running and water is pouring into tank but won’t fill and toilet won’t flush


texts: Any way to meet code with 40.7% or 40.44% conduit fill?

texts:
I’m running conduit along the walls in my shop (in a commercial warehouse) to provide power to some machines and additional outlets. The service is 3 phase, 208 V, 100 A. One of the machines requires 3 phase 240 V @ 30 A but the VFD manual calls for 8 ga conductors. This machine also has a computer attached that needs 120 V.

The other two machines are 240 V @ 20 A. In addition, I want two branches of 120 V @ 20 A outlets.

I'm facing a situation where I'd like to run 5 (or 6) circuits through 1" EMT, but my calculations are exceeding the 40% conduit fill limit by less than 1%.

Circuit 1 (50 A 3p4w): 4x 8ga + 1x 10ga ground (stranded)
Circuits 2&3 (30 A 240 V): 4x 10ga + 2x 10 ga ground (stranded)
Circuits 4&5 (20 A 120 V): 4x 12ga + 2x 12ga ground (solid)

That totals 40.7%. A workable alternative (the neutral in the 3ph circuit 1 above is only needed because I have a 120V load on that machine):

Circuit 1 (50 A 3p): 3x 8ga + 1x 10ga ground (stranded)
Circuits 2&3 (30 A 240 V): 4x 10ga + 2x 10 ga ground (stranded)
Circuits 4&5&6 (20 A 120 V): 6x 12ga + 3x 12ga ground (solid)

That totals 40.44%.

Can I round down the percentage values? Is there any other way to meet code?

Solid wire instead of stranded meets code, but It’s a pain to work with in the larger gauges.


texts: Adding led strip in living room. Is 14-2 gauge wire sufficient to draw current?

texts:
I am planning to put led strip behind our false ceiling. It requires 50ft of LED strip. So planning to use 3 5M led strips of these (https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00KNSO0M8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1475628971&sr=8-4&keywords=LED%2Bstrip&th=1)

One thing that is concerning is the current drawn by these. It says each 5m LED strip consumes 6amps (2amps per color) so in total 18amps.

Does that mean i can't connect these strips to a 14-2 gauge wire which has a max 15amps rating. I also have other LED lights hooked on the same wire.


texts:
I have a bunch of Hue bulbs throughout the house.  Most are controlled via your standard wall switch.   This is, of course, sub-optimal;  with the wall switch off, the Hue lamp can't be remotely controlled.

I'm looking for switch that is, effectively, a power pass through with a signaling mechanism for controlling the Hue.  That would be ideal but, I suspect, runs afoul of electrical code.

Question:  Is there some device that could replace the existing wall switches while still leaving the Hue powered while also providing signaling to turn the Hue off?

So, the next best solution appears to be using something like the Lutron Caseta switches.   They can be configured to replace the 3 way switches and are Apple HomeKit compatible.

Is there a Caseta switch that is either just on/off or can the Caseta dimmers be configured to not dim?


texts: What can I do about this gap between a wooden board and the sink?

texts: The board already started to rot from below, so I need to replace it. How can I seal this small gap without having a permanent seal? The problem is that the boad is attached to the wall and I still want to be able to move the sink table away from the wall to get access to the tubes and things that fell behind the sink.


texts: What type of material is my countertop made of?

texts:
My wife and I move into our very first home together and have been struggling to figure out what type of material our kitchen countertops are made of. We'd like to know

for a few reasons:

• There are some old stains on them that we want to try and remove but don't want to use the wrong type of cleaning method/solution.

• So we know if it's heat resistant or not

• So we know if we need to do any kind of maintenance on it like sealing it, etc...

Additional info: Like I mentioned above, it does have some stains on it along with a few small chips off the edges. It also has a somewhat shiny/glossy finish to it.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts: Is there any alternate of conventional Air Conditioner?

texts: Is there any alternate of conventional Air Conditioner, which are costly and increasing green house effect?


texts: What's the best way to protect plastic drain waste vent pipes from UV damage on a roof?

texts:
What is the best way to protect plastic plumbing waste vents (DWV) where they extend above the roof?  PVC discolors and gets brittle in the sun, solid ABS gets chalky, foam cellular core ABS bends easily. Metal is an option, but rarely used these days.

What sort of UV stabilized primer and paint or other compound can work for plastic stack vent pipes?  What sort of preparation is required for painting?

See also:s
Is PVC an acceptable pipe for a vent stack through the roof


texts: one of the bulbs was not working.  I took the wiring apart and rewired them in series Now neither one works.


texts: What could be causing the low water level in my shower trap?

texts:
I have a tri-level home with a shower on the lowest floor. When I noticed that the bathroom smelled like rotten eggs, I shined my flashlight down the shower drain and saw that the water level was low enough in the trap to let sewer gas in the house. Sometimes after running the shower, I hear gurgling, which must be the water siphoning out of the trap.

The shower drains into the sump hole, and the sump hole vents to the roof. I went on the roof to check the vent, and it didn't seem to be blocked.

Also, I have a radon mitigation system that was installed by the previous owner, and it sounds like water swishing around in the pipes all the time, and I'm not sure if that has something to do with it.

What could be causing the low water level in the trap?


texts:
What is the most durable roof for the Pacific Northwest where we get a lot of rain, a short summer, and less than a foot of snow?

I'd like a roof that requires no maintenance and could theoretically last hundreds of years.  Options which aren't more than two or three times the cost of typical roofing are ideal.


texts: I am unable to find such t moldings or reducer where it fits my laminate to tile transition

texts:
I got this picture from another post and since I am new to this community I dont know much on how i can ask questions to existing posts or comments also it did not allow me to do so.
Below is a picture which closely resembles to what I have. The distance between laminate and tile is 7/8th of an inch. So ideally I was looking for a T molding where one side is thicker(lets say something greater than 5/16" on one side and 5/16" on the other) and one side is thinner to cover up the height difference but I havent found something like this in Lowe's /Home Depot/Floor and decor. If anyone knows where I can found something as described please tell me ?

For using reducer of this kind If I can get something like below that would help too:

Final question: Do you think the space left (7/8th inch) between laminate and tile is very small and if I make that wider then I would have more options on the reducer ?


texts: Should all charred wood be replaced in a home fire restoration?

texts: My home was struck by ligtning and caught fire via the satcable going into the home; the vapour barrier became ablaze and started the home on fire;the fire company arrived and put the fire out. the structure that contained the wall insulation of now charred 2x4's was painted and vapour barriered by insurance. Is this legal as in my eyes I see this as crazy?


texts: Should I bond a water softener's in/out pipes?

texts:
Our house was built in 1997.  The pipes are copper (including the city water supply pipe).  Some time after the house was built, the previous owners installed a water softener.  The softener parts are all plastic, so the city water supply is not part of the grounding path.

I dug up the installation manual for my softener (Kenmore Ultrasoft 100), and it says to bond the softener in/out pipes to provide a grounding path.  This has not been done.  It has been this way for ~10 years.

There is already a solid copper wire clamped to the cold water pipe that runs over to the breaker box.  (This wire is attached to the plumbing after the softener.)  Not sure the gauge of the wire.  Presumably this wire grounds the cold water pipes.  I would guess there is a grounding rod somewhere behind the breaker box, but I have not verified this.

Edit:  Because of this grounding wire, it seems most of the cold water plumbing is already grounded.  The only part that isn't bonded is the ~5ft of cold water pipe that comes into the basement before the softener.

I do believe my outlets are grounded because the "Ground" LEDs on all of my surge strips are lit.

Should I follow the softener manual's advice and bond the water softener in/out pipes?

If the breaker box is already grounded via a grounding rod, would this extra ground path hurt anything?  It seems like a good idea to have second path, in case something happens to the first one.

However, I am not sure about the difference in potential between the two ground points.  Could this cause a problem?  (For reference, the cold water supply line is ~50ft from the breaker box.)

Follow-up question:  Should I bond the hot water pipes to the cold water pipes?  There seems to be some conductivity between the hot/cold pipes already (checked with a multimeter), but I can't find an actual bonding wire anywhere, so I may just be seeing some incidental conductivity via the water heater or faucets.