texts: Dehumidifying without an air-conditioner

texts:
First the details - This is a second home and we're here around 1-3 weekends a month. The house is a raised ranch style log house in the Southern Berkshires (MA) - a cold, rainy, damp place.
The basement / lower level is partly under the ground level and partly above. It gets pretty damp in the spring, summer and fall. Last weekend it was 82% RH in the basement as the dehumidifier had failed.
I replaced the dehumidifier and it's all well in the basement floor / lower level now and close to the 50% RH I've set on the dehumidifier which drains continuously into a drainage pipe.
The upper level unfortunately still has 70% RH. There is no air-conditioning and no house exhaust fan.
In the winter, the heat (electric) keeps the humidity fairly low and there is no issue.

How do I reduce the RH levels in the upper level of the house? When we're at the house, if it gets hot, we open the skylights and turn on the fan - this cools the living space but the RH level is still around 70%. Outside RH is in the 50%-60% range in spring, summer.


texts: How do I seal an unused washing machine drain?

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I have an unused washing machine drain in part of my house and it's started to smell because (I assume) the water in the u-pipe has dried up. My objective is to stop the smell and I guess the only way to do this is to seal this. I want the seal to be temporary in case I want to use this again in the future. I've tried putting scotch tape over the hole but it won't stick and I'm afraid that tape in general will come loose at some point in the future.

Before I go off and buy some heavy duty duct tape or the like does anyone have some obvious answer I've missed?


texts: Attic Truss Wall, truss on three sides. How do I get electrical in this wall?

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I'm currently working on wiring my workshop, which has a loft space created using attic truss. By the stairs is a single wall, three sides of which is made up by doubled-up attic truss.  I understand that it's never OK to drill into engineered framing without a note from my mom, doctor, the attorney general, etc.

My question is: how do I get wiring into this wall for a convenience recep, given three sides are entirely truss framing, and the fourth side is open to the room?

Any thoughts? Thank you for your help.


texts: How to remove strong musty odor from garage?

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I have moved into a rental house and the garage has a musty odor of which I cannot tolerate to breathe so I cannot even park my car in the garage.
After

I put in a HEPA filter and let it run for 2 weeks, a big air purifier that covers the size of my garage
and then left a dehumidifier on for a week in the garage also
also left a $20 DampRid container in for two weeks

all of which did not solve the problem, so, while leaving the garage door all the way open for the next 2 weeks, I did this:

bleached the floor with 3 cups bleach per 1 gallon of water, spread with a mop, and let it sit overnight, then washed it off,
then did the same again the next week, then washed it off, all while the garage door is still fully open
then using a degreaser and letting it sit while continuing to moisten it per instructions,
then washing it off,
and then powerwashing the whole floor in the same way that I cleaned my outdoor driveway, which took hours,
all while the garage door sat all the way open for the last 2 weeks
and I have also painted 1 wall, but the other 2 walls and ceiling I am waiting for more paint to arrive and I will do that too. (I have now painted all the walls.)

and still, although much improved and while the garage door is all the way open there's barely any smell at all, as soon as I close the garage door for a few minutes, the musty odor begins to get strong. After mere moments I feel a bit lightheaded from the strong odor - making me think this must be some mildew or mold, but I don't see it.

the previous tenants moved out and left the house vacant for four months.
the house is only 9 years old
the garage faces north
there is concrete blocks on the wall for about 1.5 feet from the floor to the base of the drywall
there is a 5 inch hole in one of the walls (which I have now repaired)
the bottoms of the drywall have a gap between the wall and the concrete block underneath. (I have now used foam backer rod and plan to use caulk to finish sealing the gap)
I cannot identify any mold or mildew anywhere. Just unfinished drywall and very clean (at this point) concrete slab floor. (I have now painted all the walls. But not the ceiling as I ran out of paint.)
my landlord is ok with doing the things.

The reason I want to solve the problem is because I would like to live here for up to 2 years (maybe longer?), but I need the garage, and otherwise the house is perfect for me and it took a long time to find a place decent and I'm tired of moving, so I do not want to move, which by the way would cost more than sealing the garage floor.
As a last resort I considered sealing the concrete. I can have it done for $750, but that's too much for a rental house. I plan to rent a diamond grinder, and then use industrial epoxy to seal up the floor. It will cost about $250 to do it myself with tool rental and epoxy.
My reasoning is that if I fill the hole and gaps, and paint the walls and ceiling, also paint the concrete blocks at the base of the walls (the paint is rated for concrete blocks as well as drywall), and seal the floor with epoxy, then I don't see how any smell could get through if it's all sealed over.

Will doing all this solve the problem?
Do I really need to do all this to solve the problem (I've already bought the paint, but have't bought the floor sealant stuff yet)?
Do you think that the 5" hole and the gaps at the bottom of the drywall may be where the smell is coming from, or do you think it's the concrete floor? Or maybe the concrete block portion of the wall at the bottom?
Is there a way to test where the odor is coming from?
Any other advice?

Need to solve this problem, hope you can help.


texts: How can I get a neutral wire for this switch?

texts: This switch is in my garage and controls lights at the end of my driveway. I want to replace it with a smart switch that requires a neutral wire. I've learned that I can't steal a neutral wire from one of the romexes in the back unless I'm sure it's on the same circuit. How can I safely solve my problem in the least expensive way? If I need special tools or techniques, please spell them out for me.


texts: Do my HVAC ducts need to hang away from floor joists?

texts:
I have a basement that I would like to finish and install a drywall ceiling. And I would like that ceiling to hide the HVAC vents.

However, the vents already just (by an inch or so) go over my head. If I put drywall around them, the ceiling will be short, which is especially a problem for the vents in the center of the room (less so for those by the wall)

Currently the vents hang from the floor joists by 4 inches.

Can I secure the vents directly to the floor joists or have them hang by only an inch? Is this safe to do?


texts: I have a 6 foot piece of 8 x 8 hardwood barn beam that I'm intending to use as a mantel.The beam weighs about 130 lbs. My plan is to mount it on four half inch x 10 inch long lag bolts, each screwed five inches into a stud, with the remaining five inches going into the back of the beam. Is this safe, and/or is there a better way to do it?


texts: GFI outlets not working - resets working

texts: 4 outside GFI outlets and 2 in the garage not working. One in the garage has a GFI red light. The light is powered on, but outlet doesn't work. The Elec Panel GFI is not tripped. Help


texts: How can I diagnose and resolve noises from my ceiling fan?

texts:
Over the past couple nights my bedroom fan has produced different noises. Originally the noise was from the light and fan pull chains colliding. Now there seems to be a new sound every night. Each more frustrating than the last. The sounds are only audible when the fan is on high.

Last night's sounds seemed to tick every second 6 times, then stop for two "beats" and start again. The night prior it seemed to be on a 4 ticks of varying loudness, followed by a short break and 2 more. Then a "I think it's done being annoying and I can finally fall asleep" period and it would start again.

When the fan is on medium or low, it does not produce the desired room temperature. What are some things I can do to find the cause of the ceiling fan noises?


texts:
I want to run power from my house, under my porch for ~13 feet, to an outdoor outlet on the "wall" below my porch. I'm wondering, can just run UF cable from the breaker, through the wall of the house, under the porch, and into the outlet box?

My front porch is maybe three or four feet above ground level and has decorative concrete blocks on three sides (and the house on the other side). There are holes in the decorative blocks, but too small for a person. So, since no human could get under the porch, it seems like the run wouldn't be subject to damage. (I can get in behind some drywall in the basement and then unscrewing an old boarded up window in order to work under there). So, I don't think I should need conduit. I figured I should use UF cable since rain/hose water could theoretically get under the porch.

Do I need to support the cable under the porch or can it rest on the "ground" under there? If I need to support it, what's a good way to do so considering I'd be surrounded by masonry? (I assume regular staples are not an option.)

I'm in the U.S.


texts: Can a gambrel roof have outer instead of inner supports?

texts:
I have built some of the "arches" for a gambrel roof, I know support is needed so the roof doesn't collapse. Is it reasonable to run twin metal straps around the roofing diagonally on the outside for support so the roof is pulled together?

I would like to avoid having to have support run on the inside so it's a cleaner geometry inside.

12' x 12' space that this roof is covering. Blue represents the kind of thing I was thinking.


texts:
I just finished building a deck.  The boards have stamps 1–2 ft from each end, and I could not bring my self to be as wasteful as to always cut them off.  I tried to place the boards with the stamp down when possible, but the mill seemed to have taken special care to place the stamp on the “good” (undamaged) side of most boards.  Here is a picture:

I probably have 30–50 of these stamps to sand off.  How easily do they come off—is it too much to do by hand, using a block and sandpaper, given that I have no ambition of becoming the next Karate Kid?  If so, I will have to convince my wife to let me buy another powertool. :)  Should I get a belt sander, or will a random-orbit sander or Mouse be sufficient for this job?  (The latter two would be more useful for future indoor projects.)


texts: Antiseize in plumbing? Alternate screw heads and materials for screws securing washers?

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My house was made in 1965. Water is somewhat hard. Sometimes a faucet fixture leaks. When I take it apart the solution is often to replace a washer secured with a #8 pan head screw. Sometimes the screw is seized and the head strips. Its cheaper and easier to replace the screw than the whole part, especially for older fixtures. My instinct is that using anti-seize and/or a different screw head would mean in a decade or two  when I replace the washers again I will have an easier time. So my questions:

Is regular anti-seize ok for drinking water? Do I need to get the food safe kind? Will it actually last?
When constantly exposed to hard municipal water, can I use stainless steel or silicon bronze screws in the brass or wil lgalvinic corrosion be a problem? My assumption is that its harder to strip a harder fastener.
will socket cap or hex screws fit in these fixtures or is my only choice torx/hex/robertson pan head screws if I want a fastner less prone to stripping?


texts: How long does screw have to be to anchor bookcase?

texts:
I'm trying to anchor an IKEA Billy bookcase to the wall it doesn't contain screws for the wall (I don't think any IKEA furniture does). And their instructions don't explain how long the screws need to be.

How long does the screw have to be to go into the wall (stud)? I have a 1 inch screw on hand, would that be enough?


texts: How can I find a replacement aerator for this faucet?

texts: We have the following faucet, which is missing an aerator. I don't see any identifying marks, nor anything to unscrew at the end of the faucet (i.e., it doesn't seem to be a standard screw-in aerator). How can I find an aerator that fits this faucet?


texts: how much can i have on a 20 amp breaker?

texts: I have a 20 amp breaker, with two lights and a outlet in on it, (the outlet normally runs stereo equipment), can i add another outlet for a tv and a fan?


texts: Is a ledger board required if the side of my house is wood?

texts:
I'm looking to attach three posts the the side of my house and I'm wondering if a ledger board is needed?

Looks like this:


texts: How do I prepare a wall for backsplash tile?

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I am getting ready to tile my blacksplash.  I had laminate counters and backsplash.  Of course when I removed the old backsplash the paper on the drywall was damaged.

How should I fix this ?  Will just skimming with a coat of drywall mud be enough ?

EDIT : It is travertine tiles.


texts: Does a thermostatic water valve works when reverse connected?

texts:
I installed a regular shower thermostatic water valve to feed a washing machine (the internal heating failed and we want to extend its working life - I also think I should have done this earlier, as central gas warm water is cheaper than the electric heating of the washing machine).

When testing the project, I figured out that the thermostatic valve is working on reverse. I need to turn the valve towards its indicated (+) to get colder water and vice-versa.

I double checked all connections and I'm positive that warm and cold inlets are connected as they should, or -at least- as color coded in the red/blue connections of the valve.

I'm assuming that either the color-coding or the +/- signs are wrongly indicated on the valve. I suppose I can return it to the shop on the grounds that it doesn't work as expected, but it would be a hassle to dismount/return/reinstall.

What I'm wondering: if what's wrong is the color coding of the connections and the valve is actually connected in reverse with relation to how the temperature control has been designed internally, will it keep on working?  or will this "cross-wiring" eventually damage the internal mechanism?  (In which case I would be better off returning the valve to the shop)


texts: What material is my waste stack made of, and what can I do with it?

texts:
A number of years ago I had a plumber out who told me what type of waste stack this is, but I've since forgotten, and cannot find info online. He indicated that it should be replaced eventually (of course, that is any pipe, but you know what I mean). For reference, the home was built in 1952.

We are now working on our upstairs bathroom and have an opportunity to replace this stack because of open walls. What kind of stack is this, and would we run into any issues attempting to remove it or join new PVC into it? Is there an asbestos risk? The join and the texture may help with identifying the pipe...

There is also what I assume to be cast iron waste pipes joined into this stack. In the below image, the cast iron pipe goes from the toilet drain, to the sink, into the wall on the right where it meets with the mystery stack pipe.

We are rearranging the upstairs bathroom so will likely remove the old cast iron pipes (which you can see have leaked before) and replace with PVC, joined into either the existing mystery stack or a new PVC stack.

Edit:
Added photo of pipe defect/damage:


texts: Installing new dishwasher but using existing power cord

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When removing existing power cord from old dishwasher, I "assumed" that it would have the 3 colors indicated. After pulling it out, I realized that there was a green wire & two grey wires with no discernible difference between them. Why would they do that? Now if I line up the cord based on facing the prongs, which one would be white & which black? for instance, left white, right black or visa versa?

Thanks...Steve


texts: Will the last electrical receptacle on the same circuit have two cables entering the box?

texts:
I have identified three receptacles in my garage coming from the same circuit breaker. All three boxes have two romex cables entering the boxes.  There appear to be no other devices on this breaker.

Why would the last outlet receptacle on this circuit have two cables entering its box if it is the end of the run?


texts: Drives me nuts, sounds like a low, bass, vibrating sound. We live in the country; the closest house is 500 ft away. The only services on the street is cable + electric which I have turned off at the main to rule out any appliances running.  I am writing this at 3:00 AM because the noise keeps me awake. My whole family can hear it. There is nothing nearby to be creating this noise. I go outside at night to see if I can find the source, but you cannot hear it outside of the house. We have lived here for 31 years and never heard this sound until about a year ago. What's going on here? Is someone drilling into the ground thousands of miles away and we get the noise and vibration? Because that is what it sounds like. Nuts right! Any ideas?


texts:
I am about to have a Mitsubishi minisplit installed.  In case it matters, the installation will be on an interior wall; on the other side of that wall is a closet with a sump pump which we will use for drainage.
The unit (#MSZFS12NAU1) is 12.6 inches tall and 9.2 inches deep.  It will be installed above a 9" deep bookshelf.  The distance from the top of the bookshelf to the ceiling is 19.25".
The contractor says that distance should be at least 22", so the bookshelf has to go and be replaced by something shorter.  I am inclined to try the experiement of keeping the existing bookshelf, living for a while with the minisplit, and then replacing the bookshelf if (and only if) I am unhappy with the performance.
Question 1:  How likely is it that the difference between 19.25" and 22" will significantly affect performance?
Question 2:  If performance is in fact affected, can I compensate by changing the temperature setting?  For example, if I would normally set the temperature to 70 degrees, but the performance is hampered by the proximity of the bookshelf, would I be able to set the temperature to, say, 65 degrees and get the result I want?
Question 3:  Given that I want to at least try the experiment of keeping the existing bookshelf (unless responders here talk me out of it), does this have any implications for exactly how far from the ceiling the unit should be installed?  (In case it matters, it's a drop ceiling with lots of room above it.)


texts: Retaining wall next to tree--how to fix or rebuild?

texts:
I have a small, roughly 4' by 4' retaining wall adjoining my neighbor's yard (see photos) that is leaning over and needs to be fixed or replaced. We think it has moved not because of pressure from the soil, but because of the roots of a nearby tree (visible in photo).

The neighbor is rebuilding the wall across his property that once connected with mine, so now is the time to fix the wall between us. However, we don't want to kill the tree. Could the wall be pushed back? If not, is there way way to build a new wall that minimizes the footer depth (eg use blocks?)? Or would it be less invasive to insert posts at either end and put in timber or concrete slabs to hold the soil?


texts: crown molding cope inside corner cope not fit (butted piece isn't flush)

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The inside coped corner doesn't fit (4 5/8th FJ primed crown). It meets at the top too soon so then it leaves a wide gap if I fit the coped piece to the wall or if I fit the coped piece to the butted piece then it is angled down and off the wall by 6". I measured the profile against a framing square and the ceiling part extends 2 5/8ths in. When I slid a thin ruler between butted piece to profile end it measured 3 inches. Granted, that is 3/8ths inch but that seems to be a huge variance that perhaps no coped joint can fit? (does this sound right?)

I also thick textured ceiling and tried to sand it down where the butt piece should rest upon the ceiling and wall, especially near the joints. However, I believe I nailed the butted piece too far forward and when I checked the bottom profile to wall degree it was way off 90 (should always be mounted at 90 to wall regardless of wall angle, or so I think), which if this is the issue then I know it is my own fault because I stood on a ladder nearly two feet away and tried to use the nail gun to push the piece against the wall instead of moving furniture, holding the piece against the wall as flush as possible, and nailing.

I need some advice...can I use a trim prybar to ease out the already installed piece about 2 feet from corner and then re-shoot nails when lined up and properly and flush against the wall? If I do, and if this 'pulls back' the profile piece from 3" to 2 5/8ths" then the coped piece should fit, right???

I'm trying to avoid removing the entire piece. An alternative is to keep the piece attached but use a multi-tool and cut through the already-shot nails while holding the molding up (it is still nailed further upstream on the crown board) and then just align properly and reshoot. I'm not worried about prying against studs and joists but am concerned about the prybar on ceiling where I cross-nailed (I could probably leave them be and just 'force' them to align since it's drywall). Also, this is the first piece of crown I've ever installed and I think I may have learned an invaluable lesson about taking shortcuts and to never use the nail gun to push crown flush to wall without using my other hand.


texts: What would cause this bad flame pattern in my boiler?

texts:
I'm living in Mexico and my landlord just installed a new boiler.

When it's turned on, it makes this huge noise. When you check the burner, you can see this flame below the main burner.

I asked my landlord about it, and he says it's normal, that the loud noise is simply because he turned in burner pressure to all it can be. (I'm not convinced it's normal, but he's stubborn about it)

After he left, I left it like that for a while and then checked the burner again and I see the burner metal glowing red from the underside 'cause of the flame that ignited there. This can't possibly be normal operation, right? So I lowered the main burner pressure (to the minimum) and it still ignites a flame there.

I'm wondering if I'm missing a gas pipe connecting the main burner and the pipe that extends from the control unit... but the few pictures that I've managed to find of similar models of boilers seem not have a pipe there, either.

So for a proper question: what do you suggest I do to fix it? (besides hiring a professional to take care of it for me, as my household is living on just savings right now, I can't afford one and, besides, I'd also like to know :) )

BTW, I've been Googling around and am surprised to see that it's difficult to find the type of boiler that I use. This is the type that you find all throughout Mexico, but all I see in the internet are these rectangular-looking ones.

Here are the pictures for my boiler.

Burner:

Boiler:


texts: What to use between a sticky floor and interlocking vinyl tiles (a floating floor)

texts:
I didn't want to install luxury interlocking tiles over the existing floor because there were already two layers of vinyl tiles on the floor and it would be too high.

After removing the old tiles, the residual glue is causing the wood floor to be sticky.

I'll probably put red rosin paper down on the sticky floor and install the floating interlocking tiles over that.

Is this OK or am I missing something?  Is there a better solution?  Thanks!


texts: Replacing a sagging/rusting stucco steel mesh ceiling below a deck steel floor

texts:
I have a 1st floor porch ceiling that is separating and rusting that I need to tear down and replace.  It's a steel porch with tile floors and what I'm guessing is some sort of corrugated galvanized steel deck.
My question is once I tear down the stucco steel mesh and wire brush the rust off, what do I replace it with?  What is this stucco steel mesh thing called and is it normally used for exterior work under a porch?
If I do some sort of stucco mesh sheet replacement, will it just trap water and sag again?  Should I just paint the wavy steel underneath and not put a replacement up, showing unpainted ribbed steel like my neighbors?  If I don't replace it with some sort of painted stucco it won't match the 2nd-floor porch above it, but I'm also worried I'll run into the same problem again.  It's tile floor on top - do I need to redo or reseal the tiles?  I don't notice any obvious holes or cracks in the tiles above the ceiling.
What is the recommended way to refinish it - leave it bare or use some sort of coating/paint/covering?  If that's galvanized steel underneath, paint won't stick to it correct?  In that case if I wirebrush the rust transfer off, I might scrape the galvanized layer off in which case I'd have to treat that area?  Or maybe there is a gentler way of removing the rust residue without scraping the galvanized coating?  Is it a safe guess to assume that it's galvanized deck, or is there some steel deck that's not galvanized?


texts: Ethernet Gauge Too Small for Patch Panel

texts:
I have run into a small issue when upgrading my home network's central hub with a larger switch and a patch panel.
While I was able to patch down most of the cables with no issues, one of the cables was refusing to work consistently. I tested it multiple times, patching and repatching it down, and each time I would get a few pairs to work and a few that failed. I tried it in multiple ports with no luck.
I took a closer look at the wire and realized that the gauge of the colored wires was actually a bit smaller than other wires I had (the other wires came off a spool which I ran myself, this one already existed in the house, both CAT6).
I came on here wondering if anyone had any advice on a method to patch this pesky cable down or whether I would just be better off terminating it with a jack and calling it a day.


texts: What are these blue and yellow cables coming out of my house for?

texts: I recently purchased a house built in 2007. All houses in the area have those cables on the side of the house. The white cable on the picture is for cable/tv. But what about the blue/yellow cables? Are they safe to remove?


texts:
Some siding boards started to rot at the bottom. See pictures. How can it be repaired without replacing entire board?

Thanks in advance!

-Leon


texts:
I have gas pipes being vented into a fenced in patio area.

3 years ago , I called the fire department as the gas meter inside was reading too high as I was getting dizzy. I can no longer open the windows in the kitchen as the pipe is under them.

Today, I was sweeping my patio area and the  exhaust came on. I immediately got dizzy and left the area. The gate was open so I thought it would be ok but obviously it wasn't.

Are there regulations on installing these pipes as the fire department didn't seem to have enough experience with it.

I live in New Brunswick.

I'm in the process of buying long extension pipes. Why would the gas company be permitted to install them in this location?

Thanks


texts: Remove cam lock pushed the wrong way into Ikea furniture

texts:
I messed up trying to assemble an IKEA bed. I accidentally pushed the cam lock with the smooth side facing out. Now I have no way to rotate it to tighten the cam lock and bolt to secure the two pieces of wood. How do I remove it? I have attached some images.

The part numbered 104895 is facing the wrong way at one location. Is there a way I can extract it?


texts: How to diagnose a lightswitch that appears to do nothing

texts:
Recently purchased property in the US, built in 1956. One bedroom has a lightswitch by the door that seems like it should control the ceiling fixture, but it doesn't. The ceiling fixture is a fan (with a remote, if it matters) and the fan can be turned on and off via the remote regardless of the switch position. So the ceiling fixture is always powered. I've also tested all of the outlets in the room and none of them are controlled by the switch. My questions:

Where do I go from here? I've been hesitant to pull the switch out of the wall to investigate because I don't know for sure what circuit it's on. I suppose I could just turn off the whole house to investigate safely, but I'm still not totally sure what I'm looking for.

My leading theories are that either the switch itself is faulty and stuck on, or the previous owner did some kind of bypass when the fan was installed.

Any thoughts on this?
UPDATE: Didn't have a ton of time last night to investigate, but I checked both plugs on all the outlets in the room, none seem tied to the switch. Still could be the tab. Removed the cover from the switch and at first glance it seems normal-ish. There's wiring in the box, and it connects to the switch. This is 1950s wiring so it's not super obvious at a glance which wire is which. I'll have to pull the switch out to tell more.
UPDATE Again: Found the breaker. The circuit contains quite a few things:

the bedroom ceiling fixture in question
all the outlets in the bedroom
a hallway ceiling light nearby
a bathroom ceiling light nearby
a GFCI outlet in the bathroom

The hallway and bathroom lights on the circuit have light switches that work correctly. The bedroom fixture is the only one stuck on. What's weird is it appears to be wired as a 3-way, see the pic. Bonus terrible rotted 1950's wiring insulation included. Am I interpreting that wiring wrong? Why does it look like a 3-way, but doesn't operate as a 3-way with any other switches? Anyway, next step is to check the receptacles on the circuit for any switched ones.
Although I'm beginning to suspect the switch is simply bypassed at the fan, apparently that is more common than I realized.


texts: I have a small grassy area in my back yard surrounded by one of those "curvy concrete" borders. The ground is wavy and needs to be lefeled but the ground is solid as a rock. I have no idea how the grass even grows. I'd rather not have to rent some big machine for such a small area. Am I doomed to a round shovel, several hours and blisters? Even after I loosen after all the dirt, how to I make it level and not settle into the pattern that ended up there in the first place?


texts: Need help running and connecting a 'C' wire to my new thermostat

texts:
I have a Laars gas boiler that has 3 heating zones; basement, 1st floor, and 2nd floor.  I want to replace the old mercury honeywell tstats on the 1st and 2nd floor with newer honeywell RTH9580 wifi model for both. The 2nd floor is a piece of cake as the current tstat and wiring there also consists of the central cooling control.  So on the 2nd floor I have all the necessary wires for the new tstat there to work with (red, white, yellow, green, and blue).  On the 1st floor however, the current tstat only controls the heat, and there is only the 2 wires, red and white. I have a clear shot to the basement in the wall behind the 1st floor tstat, and can run new wires from there to the boiler, no problem.  My dilemma...once I get the wires there (and do I run 5 wires and just use the red, white, and blue?), how do I hook up the blue wire?  To the boiler itself?  To the wires connected to the zone valves, and which one? Or to the transformer, and how?  I've taken pictures of my entire system, can someone tell me the best method (proper preferred, not necessarily easiest) to accomplish this?

I've added some more pics to included the transformer specs and the boiler schematic

Click for larger view


texts: Widen a hole in an existing knife block?

texts:
I have a knife block and I would like to widen the hole in two of the slots to accommodate the knives I own.
Without using very expensive commercial shop tools, what is the best way to widen these two slots by about an inch each?
I have a good collection of home power tools (and I don't mind going to pick up something if needed) but I don't currently have a drill press.


texts: Can I safely plug a 15amp socket to 13amp socket, through multiple adapters?

texts:
I bought a smart plug, I wanted to use it as remote control for my AC. I asked the electrician to replace the 15amp with a 13 amp socket. so I can plug the smart plug and then plug the AC to the smart plug.
He explaind it won't work and explaind the difference between 13 and 15 amp plugs.

I found online a fuse adapter such shown.
so I am thinking to plug a fuse adapter on the 15 amp wall socket, then insert the smart plug on it, then on the smart plug put another fuse adapter, then put the AC 15 am plug on the fuse adapter.

is this safe?

See the image for illustration of what I intend to do.


texts: Should the flue always be open in a gas fireplace?

texts: I have a victorian fireplace with a modern gas fire installed. The fire place has a hatch at the top to open/close the chimney, which the fitters have connected to a wire to force it to be fully open constantly. However, it loses a lot of heat through this. I believe it is partly ventilated from underneath. How much should this kind of hatch be open? can I close it completely? Can I close it and have a CO monitor? Surely as long as this is OK there is nothing to worry about?


texts:
I have a wall that is cracking in a couple of places.    Two important points:

This wall is not part of a building, it's like a fence or property boundary wall, but it's made of blocks of some sort, covered up so they look like one continuous surface
It's not really so much cracking as it appears to be separation along the joint lines of the blocks.  It goes all the way from the front to the back of the block.

There are two places in the wall which are cracking and both are near trees, so I'm wondering if the roots could be pushing up the ground under the wall and causing the cracking.  None of these trees are on our property, so we can't remove them.

One of the set of cracks is occurring near a corner in the wall, and the cracking has formed a stair-step pattern starting about 15 feet from the corner and moving up towards the corner to within about 3 feet.  When we purchased the property 3 years ago the previous owners had put expansion foam in the cracks to seal it (the cracking was around 3/4" or less, but within the last few months there was movement and now the cracks are at least double that.

My initial thought was to perhaps seal up the sides and pour mortar mix or concrete mix in the opening from the top.  However there are a number of problems with this: due to the stair-step nature of the cracking, the mix wouldn't go all the way to the bottom; (but conversely, I don't know how I would force the mix into cracks to make it go all the way through); if the problem is caused by the ground moving it might just crack more as the ground continues to move, possibly in a different location on the fence, and I'm not sure concrete or mortar mix would hold the fence together against such forces anyway.

I'm trying to find a solution that will fit in the budget, i.e. I can't afford to have the fence removed to fix the ground and the replaced or something like that.  I can afford some raw materials, but all the labor is going to have to be myself. Are there any solutions that will allow me to effectively deal with the problem?


texts:
I’m wanting to move my main electric panel from my tall crawl space to a hallway that leads upstairs but not sure if it’s allowed it has 41 in of space in the front it’s the only good wall for it to go because the exterior wall is a kitchen to a bathroom it will only be 7 ft from the meter base that sits behind bathroom wall.
I’ve replace panels on exterior walls but haven’t moved one


texts:
My daughter and son-in-law did a kitchen renovation, but there is some finish work still to do. The pic says it all:

As you can see the kitchen base board is thicker and has a different profile from the thinner base board in the living room. Also, there is a step down from the kitchen to the living room and I don't think both base boards are at the same height. (not my pic)

Other then replacing the living room baseboard, what other options are there to make it look nice?

The only thing I can think of is return the ends and leave it at that.


texts: I think the line running from my house to the municipal sewer system has partially frozen. It's been below freezing here for weeks on end, with no end in sight. I hadn't noticed any problems until I ran a load of laundry today. After the washing machine drained, I found the bathtub was full of sudsy water that had obviously come from the washing machine. Eventually the water drained out, so I'm assuming the ice plug is only partially blocking the line. Should I try running hot water for a while?


texts:
I just discovered that my 2 inch PVC drainage pipe output was buried at about 6 inches below my front lawn. I tried to make a makeshift 1 inch trench to help the water flow out. The problem is that my driveway and sidewalk gets dirt and mud when it rains hard. Would like a few recommendations on something I can do myself.

Here are a couple of other photos.


texts: Need advice with the removal of the soleplate

texts:
WARNING: I know nothing about building houses. So feel free to teach me a thing or two.
We are removing the bathroom so that will an open space as part of the living room.
In red:
-> Sole plate within the red area will be removed
-> The stud on top of the Sole plate will also be removed
In green:
-> Sole plate will stay
-> header will be added
Is that okay if he removes that sole plate and stud marked in red to have an entrance from the living room area to the bathroom?
More images -> https://imgur.com/a/6tNmfJN
More images + video -> https://imgur.com/a/7YD7Qwx


texts: What is the right A/C contactor part that I need?

texts:
I need to replace my A/C contactor, but I'm not sure what exact model I need for the new part. I took two photos showing the Brand and model number of it but when I search it on Amazon, I cant seem to find the exact one. I was wondering if I can use different brands instead of the one I have put in right now, I'm just not sure. Can someone maybe give me a link to a one which is compatible with this model or explain what other ones I can use.
Brand: Honeywell
Model: R8243A 1031
24V 50/60HZ


texts: Grind a quartz counter top or call a Pro?

texts:
I'm looking to replace the sink in my quartz countertop.
The new sink I've purchased is a drop in sink of the same dimensions.
It "fits" into the hole, with the exception that on both the left and right side of the sink are a couple tabs. So the sink fits into the hole, except for the tabs. These tabs sit under the lip, but would require notching out the counter in 4 spots by about 1/8". The sink would almost fit in like a puzzle piece.

I want to understand the risk of getting a grinder and doing this myself. Is there a chance of really messing up my counter top? Is this a DIY job, or call a Pro due to the complexity and mess?

Tabs under the sink:
The instructions/cutout is a rectangle with 4 sides. It doesn't move out/in to follow around the tabs. The hole to cut would take into account the size of these tabs. Thus, if installing new, the whole would just be bigger than the one I have now. Instead of making the entire hole bigger, I'm hoping to cheat and notch the counter top for these tabs under the lip. These tabs are for clamping the sink.

I cannot find the install instructions online (it's just the 1 large page cutout diagram), but this is the sink: https://www.blanco.com/ca-en/sinks/vision-f/vision-210-silgranit--pdp-59.046/

I've added a picture of the tabs. They are not removable Looking at the picture and thinking a bit more about this --- if I were to only notch out for these tabs, that means the sink would most likely be resting on the counter top on the dark/black material. The grey lip would not sit down flush, and thus there would be a gap. So my original question is slightly different, I originally thought about grinding out a 4 small parts for the tabs, now it seems I really do need to widen the hole. Is this a job for a Pro?


texts: Making or obtaining replacement parts for a multi-point window locking mechanism

texts:
When I bought my house, it was fitted with multi-point locking systems on the windows. One or two of these have failed - an internal cast-metal half-cog has disintegrated. There is no manufacturer's name or other marking on the parts, that I can find.

My wife thinks it must be possible to source replacement parts. I suspect I'll have to try to fabricate parts or replace the window frames because I think these parts are proprietary and unlikely to be standardised.

Here's a photo of the mechanism, there is a metal bar with three locking studs (one visible at right of photo) each stud engages with a locking point on the outer frame. The metal bar slides vertically up and down. It is driven by the toothed insert to the left of the photo. The rectangular part with three holes should contain a half-cog that engages with the toothed section and which has a square hole. This square part sits in a rebate in the edge of the opening window frame (PVC). The window handle (with a key lock) fits into the square hole so that turning the handle turns the half-cog thus moving the locking bar up or down.

The square part is a metal sheet folded around the sliding bar (over which it slides freely) and bent at right angles. From the side it is L-shaped (two layers). The machine-screw inserts appear to be acting like rivets to hold the folded metal together.

Is likely that parts such as the missing half-cog can be sourced or fabricated?


texts: How on earth can I fix this cabinet door? My 13 year old used the door as a knee rest and the hinge popped out and damaged the cabinet wall. Is there a quick fix even if it's not permanent?


texts: Hot Water Running Out in Large Home - Tankless Gas Unit with Tank?

texts:
We have a large 3600 sq ft vacation rental that tyically houses 10-14 people. We have a 50 gallon gas tank water heater but guests have complained that the hot water runs out after a while.
We have three full bathrooms as well as three sets of washer/dryers.
We are contemplating installing an additional gas tankless water heater in addition to the current gas tank unit.
Would we run this in series (i.e., both units would be connected) and if in series, which unit would you install first? (i.e., would you have the tankless unit preheat the tank or would you have the tankless unit only kick in when the tank unit was depleted)
Also, a plumber suggested installing a thermostatic mixing valve to give us more capacity. If we were to install this, where would we install it in the system?


texts: I do not have gutters but the water does gush off of the roof in front of my front door when it rains. Where can I find something like a gusher guard that I can attach to the roof?


texts: Should I remove the baseboards and trim for built-ins?

texts:
I'm planning on putting in a built in murphy bed and book shelf along a wall in what is currently a guest room so I can take the space back for an office. I have 6 inch baseboards with quarter round trim at the base along the walls. It would definitely be easier to install the built-ins without the baseboards and in most things I've seen, this is standard practice. The baseboard is just 1x6 molding, nothing fancy and it would be easy enough to notch out and accommodate this. Because a murphy bed is probably not what everyone would want in this room, I may remove it when I leave the house.

Should I leave the baseboards, or take them out? Any thoughts appreciated.


texts: what is proper way to use spring washer and washer

texts:
I have one socket screw,one socket bolt,two nuts and spring washers,washers.and I need to know what is proper way to use.what order should i put them.
does spring washer generally go on the nut side or bolt side.i tried four different ways and i attached image of it.


texts:
My wife and I purchased a mountain cabin that is supported by a concrete block crawl space foundation. I noticed that there is a common 2" vent stack that rises from the 4" sewer line exiting to the septic and extends up the rear wall of the cabin, terminating just below the bathroom window. Upon examining the plumbing in the crawl space, it is a series of mismatched black plastic pipe, pvc and galvanized pipe with drainage pipe that does not have a p-trap at every fixture. The sewer line from the septic extends upward and is a Christmas tree for a maze of sewer and drain piping that makes no sense.

I plan to replace all of the supply lines with 3/4" and 1/2" copper because I'm most familiar with using it. In replacing the drain piping, the problem is that I must make all replacements from the crawl space or face tearing out newly renovated walls everywhere above. What I would like to do is extend downward from each fixture 24" max to install p-traps so that I will have room to install a 2" common vent line starting just above my drain levels beginning at the highest sink and then extend all vent lines down through the floor to eventually tie into a common 3" stack that I plan to extend upward through the roof.

My question is can the 2" common vent line that services all of the fixtures run below the house in the crawl space to join a 3" vent stack as long as each tie-in originates from above the p-trap at each fixture? It seems counter-intuitive to ultimately run the common vent downward but as I said, it would constitute a nightmare if we have to tear out all of the walls to run common venting or even provide individual vent stacks at each fixture.

Is a crawl space arrangement possible here and if so, can I install it as planned and described?

Thanks for any recommendations or guidance.


texts: Run new electrical wiring in backyard from existing wall outlet

texts:
I am planning to run a new electrical wiring in my backyard and start from where the current outlet is at the wall (behind my kitchen):

It's right above the deck and here is the picture under the deck (about 4 feet tall)

I plan to run the wires under the deck using all PVC conduits. However, I am wondering how to connect the new wire from the wall.

I am thinking of two options.

Option 1:

Pull the wire through the bottom of existing box and box cover like this

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2013/11/07/whats-the-difference-electrical-conduits

However, the current electrical box/cover is very flat to the wall. I don't know how to pull the wire through the bottom like the picture.

Option 2:

This leads me to option 2 which is to run the wire inside the wall first, and then pull it outside the wall through a LB box under the deck:

http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/electrical-wiring-how-to-run-power-anywhere/view-all

But to be honest, this option is too complicated with many small parts: nut connector, EMT, conduit connectors, LB, RMC, 4x4 box, seal ...

I am leaning toward the first option (Option 1). What are the pros and cons? If I go with Option 1, I have to drill a hole in the deck (which is fine) to run under it. But how do I "protrude" the box at first? Do I replace the existing box so it's staying outside the wall?

UPDATE

I added the extension box and ran the PVC through the deck outside.

Questions:

I will add a strap at (A). Right?
Do I need to put glue or seal around the hole at (B)?


texts: How to fix gaps in shelf without a table saw?

texts: I built this shelf for my office, I want to make it look as seamless as possible. I work with kids, only lightweight toys will go on this shelf. I was hoping some type of cover existed I could put over it. It needs one more coat of paint so I was originally thinking of just taping the middle parts together since I’m installing a bracket anyway. I included a picture, it’s on every shelf, but easiest to see on the bottom. Does anyone have more official/sage options? Thank you.


texts: Where does my garage drain go and how can I unclog it?

texts:
I have a drain in my garage floor. I've never worried about it too much, but with some heavy rains recently I discovered it doesn't work.

It appears to be clogged with lots of dirt, pebbles, and leaves. I tried pouring a bunch of water down it to see if I could find the exit, but could not.

Would this drain go to the sewer? If not, what can I do to unclog it? How can I figure out where it goes?

I've taken a look at this question, but the drain is in the concrete, so digging it up is out of the question. Also, it appears -from jamming flexible tubbing into it- that it gets clogged almost right away, so I don't think snaking it will tell me anything.

Any help is appreciated.

pic of drain, grate removed: Hemisphere base with the drain going straight out of the side. All that dirt is left over from my attempt to use a plunger on it.


texts: How big do I frame the door entrance for a closet sliding door

texts: i have a 72x80 sliding closet doors how much bigger do i am the opening. I am framing a new closet


texts: How can I make mortar adhere to smooth flagstones?

texts: I just started making a raised bed with flagstones that are relatively smooth.  After using nearly 160 lbs. of mortar, I find that more flagstones are not adhered together than are.  I paid attention to directions, particularly not doing the job when night temps would go below 40 degrees.  What can I do to make my project work?  I am thoroughly frustrated, but really want this to work.  Please help me figure this out!


texts: How should I connect this meter to my power inverter?

texts:
Is there anyone here knows how to install this on an inverter? I haven't been able to locate an instruction manual.

Top Picture grabbed from the internet

.

Actual picture of unit I have


texts: It started as a problem with the light in the bathroom. When I switch the light on it causes the GFCI outlet to stop working. However, other lights on the same GFCI outlet still work.


texts: C-wire on Weil McLain cGA Gold has low voltage

texts: I am trying to run a new c-wire for my new ecobee thermostat. When I finished running the c-wire from the thermostat it did not turn on. I tested the voltage at the boiler and it is only reading 17ac on the multimeter. Is there a way to fix this so that it powers my thermostat?


texts: Manufactured home wiring of hot water tank

texts: I have a manufactured home 2003 model. The breaker for hot water tank is tripping & at the breaker box it has 2 single breakers only 1 is tripping ?? Has it been wired wrong ? And what should I do ?


texts: Is this red oak or white oak hardwood flooring?

texts:
I am planning to change a room that has laminate flooring to a room that has 3/4" hardwood flooring.  The rest of the adjacent rooms and hallways all have hardwood flooring 3/4".

Initially I planned to use prefinished hardwood but after contacting minwax, I decided against it as prefinished hardwood cannot have any polyurethane applied to it easily and is difficult to sand.  To get a closer match, I change my plan...

My plan is now to purchase unfinished wood flooring and then finish it myself in this room.  The hardest first step is determining if I have red oak or white oak flooring.  I think I have red oak as this was popular in the Long Island area long ago, but it's really hard to tell.

The next issue, is how to actually finish the wood to get this color match.

I planned to put the floor down and then finish with this polyurethane product for floors which has an amber tone, but I'm not sure if this produce a close enough orange-y effect.

Any advice would be much appreciated!


texts: I am replacing my outside hose spigot. is it necessary to shut off the valve at the street side? or can i just closed the inside main valve in my home


texts: Samtron wm-m640121 washing machine starts draining immediately when turned on and displays the error code (e33), no water in it and when adding water from the door before plugging it, it drains it after switching it on which means that the pump is working well.


texts: How do I connect a new fixture to a box with two black and two white wires?

texts:
I am attempting to change/update a chandelier in our dining room.  I (mistakenly) disconnected the previous fixture without noting the connection first.  When I attempted to connect the next chandelier (all the blacks to blacks, all the whites to whites, and copper to ground w/ fixture grounded) and flip the breaker switch, the light comes on BUT the switch is off and won't turn off unless I flip the breaker switch.

The new fixture only has 1 black, 1 white and a ground. How should the connection be? In the picture the yellow cap indicates the wire that when connected, provides power but won't turn off. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!


texts: Water not rising in the flush/ rubber gasket does not create a good seal

texts:
The water in our toilet flush does not rise about the 20% mark.

More pics and videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xcuJ2dKajRQdbZ938

I figured out that the red rubber gasket doesn't stay in place. If I move the red gasket to its place and apply downwards pressure with my bards, the water does start to fill up. But as soon as we flush it, the gasket goes out of place as it is loose and isn't tied to anything.

Thanks for reading. Appreciate your help.


texts: I replaced a light fixture, now one specific outlet doesn’t work and the light fixture goes dim when something is plugged in

texts:
Here’s the layout: there is a light fixture at the top of the stairs.  There is one switch for this fixture at the bottom of the stairs and one at the top. On an adjacent wall up stairs, there is an outlet near the floor.  Before I replaced anything, everything was working properly. Neither switch is a dimmer.
I was told this house was built in the 1940’s.
I replaced the light fixture at the top of the stairs. I have done this before in this house without issue.  I removed the old fixture and wired in the new white wire to a group of 3 other white wires. I wired the black wire with a group of 2 black wires.  Each group was capped with a wire nut.  I connected the bare copper ground to the box above the fixture.
I turned the breaker back on and the switches operated the fixture properly.  I moved on to another project.   But then, weeks later, we plugged something in to a rarely used outlet near the fixture and the light on the fixture went from off to on without the switch being touched.  I flipped the switch yet the light stayed on.  Plus, the vacuum we plugged in to the outlet never turned on.  I tested with a fan and got the same result.
I rechecked the wiring and everything looked right to me, but clearly something is not right.  The new fixture has an LED bulb.  I read online that LED bulbs can do funny things in old houses.  I replaced the bulb with an incandescent one. Now, when the outlet is used, the outlet cycles on for 1 second, then off for one second.  The incandescent bulb does the same. Turning the switch off turns both the light and the outlet off.
I then unplugged the fan from the outlet and the light works fine with both the incandescent and the LED.
I understand pictures may be helpful but I have not taken any yet.  Would pictures of only the fixture wiring help?  Or would pictures of the outlet and switches be needed?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Edit: Adding pictures of fixture wiring. Also, I was mistaken.  There are 3 groups of wires.  What look like 2 black groups and 1 white group.  I think I connected the new white and black where the old ones were but it’s possible I confused them.

Having trouble uploading non hi def photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CDmM5FSk4rcvtMnu9

I added photos of the wiring to the switches and the receptacle.  New info: I got a little zap when taking the photo of the receptacle.   I thought it was on the same breaker as the light but apparently not.  Maybe this is helpful.


texts: Water Leaking From Upstairs Restroom Down to Basement Restroom

texts: I live in a two story split entry home. It has an upstairs and a basement. My restroom upstairs is right above the basement restroom. There is water leaking from the upstairs restroom down to the basement restroom. When we took a bath upstairs the water did not leak down to the basement restroom. It leaked through downstairs to the basement restroom when we took a shower. We are confused about what the issue could be. When we turned the shower on the water was dripping a lot onto the sink which cause the crack of the wall, above the light fixture and the ceiling to get wet. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I want to get it fixed as soon as possible before more damage can happen. Any ideas on the cost as well? In the picture you can kind of see where water damage happened. The wall became so sensitive we poked a hole through but just stuck a paper towel in to close it off for now. All answers are appreciated. Thank you!!


texts: double hung sash window, any way to prevent the top from being moved down?

texts:
I have double hung sash window, is there any way to prevent the top from being moved down?  A different style of window hardware possibly?

As of now I have a crecent style fastener in the middle, that will allow both the top and bottom to separate if unlatched.

They are wood sash windows, with a sash chord, and are approximately circa 1922.


texts: How do I remove the mounting hardware of an intercom speaker, and then patch the hole?

texts:
I am looking to remove an old intercom speaker from my bedroom wall and patch over the hole. I removed the speaker to find a metal mount in the wall attached between two studs.

More pictures here

My questions are: is it recommended to remove the metal mount? How well will spackle adhere to the metal?

Im somewhat afraid to attempt to remove any more of the wall to expose where the mount is attached to the stud in fear that it is nailed in instead of screwed.

I've been told the walls are plaster, but I'm not sure. I know I have to attach a backing board between the 2 - 2x4s and cut a piece of plasterboard or sheetrock to fit, then patch over it. I mostly concerned with whether or not I should remove the frame.


texts: Baseboard radiator pipes running along edge of room

texts:
My house has baseboard radiators (water, not steam if it matters) and one room has the piping enter at the southwest corner, run all the way along the west wall, then feed the heaters on the north wall. They used to be covered by a built-in cabinet unit, but I removed the cabinets.
How can I effectively seal the floor/wall gaps and/or cover the whole pipe run?
Here are the pipes at the southwest corner:


texts: Can I lay peel and stick tiles over existing, old vinyl?

texts:
I am renting a place which has a very old and dirty vinyl flooring. Since I don't own that place, I don't want to spend a lot of money. The vinyl is in bith the kitchen and the entrance.

I have found these peel and stick tiles. Would that work, on top of this old, existing vinyl? They told me, at home depot, to apply another self stick tile primer.


texts: We just found this dip in our roof that it causing rain water to leak through the wood directly under it. (It covers an open patio, not interior living space.) We'd like to make the repair ourselves instead of hiring a roofer, but I'm not sure where to start. The roof has asphalt architectural shingles and we live in the northeastern U.S. where we get a lot of rain, snow, and wind. Basically, our roof takes a beating so we need to make sure the repair is sound and will hold up in nasty weather.


texts: How can I accommodate newer washing machines with older drains?

texts:
There is a similar thread on this topic.  I've got a new LG WT1101CW top load washer and our drain pipe can't keep up with the flowrate coming from the washer.  It's a great idea to add a larger diameter tube to the drain pipe to allow the excess water time to drain away.
Is there any significance to the second 2" pipe at the outlet side of the trap? Or is this just another drain pipe coming from "upstairs"?


texts: What is this part of a double hung window sash called?

texts:
A few of the covers for these are missing in my house and I can't figure out what to search for for replacements. I'm referring to the dirty, vertical rectangular thing in this picture:

Full size picture here.


texts: Can a grounding issue with newly installed light fixtures cause a short circuit/blown fuse?

texts: I have installed three lights (60 Watt Bulbs) on the same line (wire) connected to one light switch.   The fuse blew when I hit the switch.  I’ve connected all of the white to white and black to black.  I believe the problem may be with the ground.  I’ve grounded each light fixture.  I believe that I was just supposed to pig tail the ground to the ground in each light fixtures and only affix the actual ground wire in the switch box to the green ground nut.  Is that correct?  An informed response would be greatly appreciated!


texts: adding an electric range/oven in house with only 100amp main service?

texts:
Well I'm doing some wiring in the kitchen before the big remodel in there and I thought I'd install a 40 or 50 amp circuit for an electric range/oven (there's a gas oven currently, but may want to upgrade to electric or even induction one day).

Then it occurred to me.. we only have 100 amp service in the house. Would adding an appliance that uses up to 50% of the max electric load be pushing it? Does this mean I either need to update the service or scrap the idea of an electric oven?

I would like to stay at 100 amp main if possible. The house has a gas furnace, three window electric A/C units on 20 amp breakers (I'm in Kansas, climate is really hot in summer and a pretty cold in winter), an electric dryer on a 30amp breaker, not a lot of lights and stuff as it's less than 1000 sq ft, there's a workshop/garage getting 20 amps IIRC (could be more, especially if I want to weld).

What do you think??

(Bonus question: do I really need #6-4 wire for the oven circuit and how do I connect this to the breaker box?)

edit: thought you guys might like to see the breaker box. (btw, I've already removed the old K&T wiring that you see going to the breaker bellow the main breaker).


texts: How long will metal pipe last in earth and concrete

texts:
I'm building a fort for my kids out of wood, 8 foot by 8 foot and trying to work out how to make it last. I can't get treated wood, and apparently untreated wood rots within a year of ground contact even if painted.

Can I make a base out of 3 inch pipe, with 2 foot legs concreted into the ground and then build my fort on it? Perhaps have the base raised a couple of inches off ground? How long could I expect it to last. I don't want to (can't afford to) build a proper foundation, just concrete in the legs so it's solid.

We get a LOT of rain here, like a monsoon season and cyclone prone, so I need it solid as it will be 15 foot tall on an 8 foot square base. Although in the event of a cyclone I'd probably unbolt it from the base and lay it down.


texts:
I'm replacing an old GFCI/Switch combo.  In the old one there are two wires coming into the line side, a hot wire and a neutral.  On the load side there is one wire leading up to the lighting fixture.  In this configuration the outlet only works when the switch is on.

On the new GFCI/Switch combo there is a load and line side, and two black wires coming out of the back that are meant to control the switch.  How do I rewire this in order to give constant power to the GFCI while controlling the light fixture with the switch using the single remaining wire?

I tried splitting the hot wire to go to both the line side and to one of the black switch wires, while connecting the other switch wire to the wire going up to the light fixture.  This resulted in a large spark.


texts: I know there is a pressure vacuum breaker here, but what is the rest?

texts:
First, a labeled picture of the situation:

There are three ends, two in the ground and one in the house. How can I figure out which way the water is flowing?
There are four labeled valves (and one hose bib valve I left unlabeled). I'm guessing C and D are part of the pressure vacuum breaker, but I don't know what any of them are for. What is the purpose of each valve? Turning them all off does not seem to affect water in my house (I only ran water for about 15 seconds). Does that mean water is flowing out of my house at end 2 and into the ground at both ends 1 and 3?
Some additional context: this setup is on the back of my house. I have a pool and an in-ground irrigation system. There is a double check valve in front of my house that I would expect to control my irrigation system, but maybe it only controls the zones in front of my house (I'll be buying a valve handle soon to test it).


texts: Can an ERV push air through an existing HVAC system

texts:
I have an existing HVAC system on a 2 story, 2500sq ft house + finished basement in Pennsylvania.  We have radon in the basement, which fluctuates between 1 and 3.5.  It's controlled by a mitigation system, but we'd like to reduce it further.  An ERV was suggested, which would also provide the benefit of passing more fresh air through the house.
An HVAC tech came by and said that we could hook the ERV ventilation into the existing HVAC system, and the ERV would drive fresh air through the house.  However, he later realized that the 150 max CFM wouldn't be sufficient to drive air through our HVAC system.  He suggested one of the follow solutions:

Hook ERV into basement HVAC and leave HVAC fan running all the time.  The HVAC would then drive the fresh air that the ERV pumps in and out of the system.
Keep the ERV as its own isolated system in the basement.  This would circulate the basement air, which is the air w/ most radon.  However, we'd lose the benefit of fresh air in our whole house.

Can someone confirm that home ERVs do need to hook into existing HVAC systems to drive air flow through a house?  And secondly, any recommendations on how you'd proceed in my situation?


texts: How do I extend a 2x4 by connecting another one end to end?

texts: My hardware store only sells 8' cuts of 2x4s. How do I extend length horizontally with another 2x4 and support the joining best? Is there a joint or strong tie for this? I have three support legs spaced every 66". Should I just ensure all extensions occur on a support leg or can they be done elsewhere? This is for a simple workbench I am trying to build in my garage. I have no clue what I'm doing but a table seems like it should be an attainable goal to build. I can't find plans for anything longer than 8", which assumes one long board. I need one longer. How do I join them to extend length? What are strategies, hardware, etc.?


texts: What are the connections on this German TV socket?

texts:
I live in Germany. I have zero knowledge in TVs. I found a TV socket in the wall but I have no idea what it means.

My questions is: can you please explain to me what does each port in the socket does?

Here I attach a picture for the socket:

EDIT: Is it called DVB-T?


texts:
Our house, built in 1951, has one room paneled in wood:

When we bought the place, the home inspector opined that this was original to the house, and not the cheap 1970s stuff. Moreover, the house is very solidly built overall. Here's what we found when we opened up the wall behind the shower:

I want to hang some bookshelves on this paneled wall, probably the standard-and-bracket type, like this. My questions:

How thick is that paneling likely to be?
Is that same double-thickness situation (which looks like plaster over drywall, or maybe two layers of plaster) likely to be under the paneling? If not, what is?
Am I going to need any special kind of hardware to hang shelves on wood over plaster over drywall over a stud?


texts: Any way to do a mitered corner without a table saw?

texts:
I want to use some left over wood from a table i did to build a 1ft^3 storage box to use in the living room.

The wood has a beautiful pattern but it is plywood so i do not want to expose the edges.

Is there any way to accomplish the 45 degree cuts on the edges without a table saw?

something like this:


texts: Why does it take my dryer 3 hours to dry a load of clothes?

texts:
I have a Maytag model LD69806AAE clothes dryer. Since our tenants in our town home have moved in July 2012. They have pointed out that the dryer takes about 3 hours to dry a load of clothes. The dryer is about 10 years old but was not used that much. The previous owner (my wife's GF) hardly used it. My wife bought the place in 2006, and before I moved in when we got married in 2009 it was hardly used. She had two roommates at separate times but they only stayed for months at a time. The dryer is located in the center area of the first floor. There is about 28 feet of flex corrugated dryer vent duct work. It is routed to the outdoor patio. There are about 3 elbows in the duct run. The duct ended at a louver/grill at the exterior patio wall. Here’s a list of things we have done.

Had Sears replace the heating solenoid valve.
My brother-in-law and I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and ductwork at the point of connection to the dryer.
Replace the outside termination to a typical wall cap. Remove some excess flex duct close to the outside termination.
Had Coit Services Clean out the dryer vent ductwork

After the cleaning of the duct by Coit, our tenants mentioned the dryer time is better but still longer than expected (maybe 2.5 hours)

Now we are considering  re-routing (21 feet approx.) the ductwork with straighter runs and less elbows and provide smooth dryer vent ductwork and possibly increasing the duct from 4” to 6” at areas where possible. Will this make any difference?


texts: Can I connect an Asian 240v water heater to a US 240v circuit?

texts: How can i wire directly an Asian single 240 volt line with neutral  instant hot water heater to my 240 twin line tap in the United States? Can i tie the two legs on the breaker into a single wire? I am not sure how the neutral would feed then. What is the best way?


texts: OK to use short length of plumbing pipe as electrical conduit?

texts:
I need to connect a steel junction box on the inside of a building with an outdoor rated disconnect/switch on the outside of the building.  The disconnect will be used to power a piece of outdoor equipment and be connected with appropriate cordage to the disconnect.
The wall is 8.5" thick solid concrete.  I was planning on drilling a 1" hole through the concrete and connecting the inside box into the back of the outside disconnect using a piece of 3/4" galvanized rigid conduit.  I don't, however, have the tools to cut and thread the conduit to length so that the threads can be tightened with conduit locknuts.  I asked an electrician if he could do this for me, and he told me to just get a piece of black iron or galvanized plumbing pipe (which I can get pre-threaded in 10-in lengths) and use that instead.  Since we are only running THWN wire through this short length of pipe he thought the risk of snagging on the inside of the rough piece of pipe would be minimal.  Is this sound advice or should I find another electrician that can cut me a piece of rigid conduit?  I thought about using other types of conduit, but I don't see how I could run directly into the back of the disconnect and have room for a conduit connector or clamp unless I make a significantly bigger hole in the concrete.  Any advice would be appreciated.
I am also curious as to what standard practice is for caulking sealing outdoor boxes like this when connecting directly through the wall into the back of the box.


texts: How do I remove a brick patio embedded in concrete?

texts: How can I remove a brick patio set in concrete and on a concrete slab? Is it possible for a woman to do this herself?


texts: I was digging up a foundation and broke some parts of the top sewer pipe. The pipe is encased in concrete so not easy to replace. How can we repair the hole without replacing the pipe?


texts: What are the names of these tools and what are they used for?

texts: Found these in my Dad's collection.  Any ideas of what they are called and what they were used for?  The top tool is 11 3/4" and the bottom one (with one end like a flat screwdriver) is 6".


texts: How to insulate/ventilate a roof without an attic?

texts:
I'm remodeling the upper floor of a ~100 year-old house near Portland, OR. It's down to beams: all the drywall (and plaster) has been removed, along with all the old insulation. I'm about to replace the roof which will require a complete tear-off and new decking (or is it called sheathing?)
The roof is framed with old-style 2x4s (actually 2" x 4"). The roof decking will be installed on the top, and sheet rock to the bottom, so there isn't much room to add insulation and ventilation.
There is, actually, a small attic space about three feet under the peak of the roof. But most of the ceiling is shared with the roof. The pitch is quite steep.
One contractor told me I could fill the entire 4" depth with sprayed-on liquid foam insulation to maximize the R-value. He said it was allowed by code because this foam couldn't absorb water.
A second contractor said I should use the traditional soffit/ridge venting even though it would reduce my insulation by half.
I'd prefer the better insulation; it gets hot up there in the summer.
Are both of these viable? Are they both allowed? I need to tell my roofer if he should install soffit vents...


texts: How should I handle a deck beam member that's slightly shorter than the others?

texts:
So, I had a load of wood delivered a few days ago for a deck build.  With the beams, I have one board that is about 1/4" smaller in width than the others.  What is the right way to deal with this?
A) Center it with the other 2x10 that I'm doubling it up with, leaving 1/8" top and bottom (guessing that it is newer wood, and will shrink equally)
B) Level the top of the double beam, leaving a 1/4" gap against the post.   Fill in that gap with a 1/4 shim.
C) Same as B, but level the base - but no shimming on top.  The joists will simply be "sitting" on one 2x10 instead of on both of them.


texts: Can I use a non-standard design for a stairwell ceiling cutout in an old house?

texts:
I am designing the framing for a stairwell in an 1870's cottage, which is presenting a few extra constraints. What seems to be the standard approach throws up a couple of additional issues, and I'm not sure if my solution has any weaknesses or is invalid in any way.
We are adding a staircase which must penetrate the top of a wall as the rooms are less than 3m wide, and therefore it cuts into two different ceilings. One is tongue & groove the other is original lathe & plaster. Both of which are heritage and we need to preserve and not damage as much as possible.
The existing joists aren't perfectly made or laid, being roughly 50 x 140mm of very hard old timber (ironbark), and spaced roughly at 450mm standard, but there's a lot of variation. Of course they cannot be moved.
This is the existing joist layout in the area affected.

The joist along the wall is a bit crooked, and will need to be cut away to provide a clean stairwell.
The stairs we intend to install are like this. They are made and installed by a company who is expecting the penetration to be ready to go.
The staircase has a turn at the top (due to headroom constraints), so must land on a new trimmer joist, parallel to the existing joists.

Design 1
My first attempt at the cutout design, following the normal approach is something like this, with double headers and a new double trimmer joist spanning the entire house. (They might not have to be double as the spans aren't big.)

The problems with this design are that the "wall joist" needs to be cut as the stairs run along the wall. I presume this is a common problem, as it's a common design. I presume I should anchor the cut ends of the joist to the wall using bolts or a 90° joist hanger or bracket of some kind.
Is there another solution to this cut joist which still allows the stairwell wall to be clean and uninterrupted?
The addition of the long new joist will not be possible on top of the lathe & plaster ceiling, as the plaster 'nibs' or keys are curling anything up to 30mm above the ceiling laths. So the new joist would either have to be only 100mm deep to avoid them, or they would have to be removed. The former would probably not be structurally strong enough? The latter would damage and weaken the ceiling, so I don't want to do that.
The overlapping joists on the centre supporting wall, cannot be staggered as they need to form a uniform line across the stairs. The wall is 250mm thick, but I am unsure if a 125mm overlap and a butt joint is acceptable.
Design 2
My second design is to insert a single/double trimmer joist between the two headers, almost like another header.
On the right hand side, it's only supporting a tiny amount of t&g so it's almost cosmetic. In the centre it's sitting on a supporting wall, so it's very well supported. On the left, it is the landing point for the stairs turn, so I know this needs to be solid. The span from the centre wall to the header is only 1,400mm.

This design still has the same "wall joist" cut as the first design, and raises further questions.
I don't know if this design is "valid", as it's difficult to see how the load is transferred from a header to another "sub header". It all feels a bit non-standard, though it seems to be well supported.
Is it acceptable to invent a non-standard design, to cope with a unique situation? Are there drawbacks to not using the tried-and-trusted layout?
Update, 9/11/2016
We have decided to keep the "wall joist" and make it a decorative feature on the wall.  I realised there is no complication with the wall stringer as I had originally thought, as the stringer never reaches this joist before it turns to the right. It will also provide delineation between the downstairs plaster, and the bare sandstone walls upstairs.


texts: Shock when Installing Fluorescent Bulb 50VAC between frame and GLASS of Lamp - New Ballast Installed

texts:
I have a ballast that we are replacing in a church. There are approximately 12 dual lamp T12 Fixtures in parallel drops. The fixtures are all in line -- but L1, Neutral and Ground are parallel drops.

After 40 years some ballasts have failed - they are 4-wire magnetic type units. We have purchased 5 wire electronic ballasts to replace some. Upon replacing the first ballast, a GE magnetic ballast, with a Philips QuickPro 60 Electronic Ballast I managed to get a shock installing the lamp. I measured 50 VAC between the FRAME of the Fixture (my ground wire is attached to the frame), and the LAMP GLASS ITSELF - note the GLASS which is what I was touching when I got shocked - I was touching the middle of the lamp 6 feet in so I know I was not mistaken in what I touched.

I know I wired the new Ballast Correctly.

I have attached a picture showing the new Ballast wiring at the TOP of the image and the original magnetic ballast at the bottom of the picture.

My Question is two fold:

Since I have installed an electronic ballast and the other units in parallel have magnetic ballasts could this be causing an issue ?

What could be the problem that I am measuring this 50VAC between the glass and the frame of the fixture?

My examples of wiring are correct and I did find the culprit - I will post my answer.


texts: I recently had my roof replaced. The roofer recommended that we also replace the sheathing so we did. As they were installing the sheathing I expressed concern that the sheathing had small strips where the top layer was missing. The roofer shrugged it off and said that new wood sheathing is not as good as it was decades ago. He installed the damaged looking pieces. Now many months later I went into the attic and see the top layer of the plywood peeling off in places. I think the plywood that he installed was bad. The roofer installed state of the art ventilation with a ridge vent and an intake vent along the gutter line. Can the peeling sheathing be repaired? Do I have to redo the roof shingles?


texts:
I went to my local retail network box store and after being assured by the sales person that this would work for Cat6 and produce Cat6 speeds I purchased this
 to wire-up my Cat6 cable to, then run a Cat6 cable from the surface mount box to my device.  I know End 1 (connected to switch works), and I know the Cat6 cable that I connect to the surface mount box is good as I have tested it in multiple other switches, which leads me to the fact that I have wired something up incorrectly.

This is an image of the wiring that I have done...does someone notice right off what I did incorrectly and is causing the box to be "dead"


texts:
I'm trying to decide the correct drill bit size for a hole I have to make to fit my thread.

I measure the (major) diameter of the threaded section as 0.5325 inches. The threads are not supposed to go into the plastic.

I looked at the chart provided by Bosch, and assuming I have a 9/16 thread, the drill bit size should be 31/64. I tried 31/64 drill bit and drilled a test hole to see if it fits and it did not. I don't have 33/64 bit, but I tried 1/2 inch and it barely fits.

What is the correct method to determine the drill bit size from the measured threaded diameter? Also, since I am drilling into plastic, what is the correct way to determine the correct pilot hole drill bit?


texts: Can I use post being sunk for a sail shade as corner support for a deck?

texts: I'm currently replacing a slightly above ground level deck that rotted.  The deck will fit between the house and a flag stone patio. One edge is tied to the house via a ledger board. I would like to incorporate two 6X6 post into the construction for a sail shade while also using the post for the corner support.   The post will extend 8ft above the deck surface.  My question is can I use those post for the corner support and if so, what is the proper way to attach to the post?


texts: How to hang wall cabinets with the upper plaster removed

texts:
I am trying to hang wall cabinets obviously want them level and plumb.
However, when I removed my old cabinets half of the wall’s plaster is missing.

This creates an extremely unlevel surface.
My thoughts were to drywall and try to match the thickness of the plaster there
Or
To screw in drywall shims and make the studs level as best as possible.


texts:
The previous tenant at the place I’m currently living deliberately damaged some fixings and fittings, including breaking the side panel off the electric shower.
Is there a way to cover up this side panel, to make it safe?
Fortunately, the open side faces away from where water flows, so water is unlikely to get in directly. I realise water slashes, steam and condensation would get in.
The shower has stopped working (manual says it’s likely a solenoid or circuit board failure).
I’d like to know if the broken case could be repaired and made safe somehow - even a temporary fix - or whether the shower should be replaced.
I am not going to attempt to fix the shower’s electrical system or install a new shower myself. I will get an electrician to do that.
I have agreed to pay for the repair, and for the live-in landlady to pay me back. So I’d prefer the former, as it’d be a lot cheaper and I don’t intend to be living here long-term.
Thanks.
EDIT: I’m in the UK. I’m aware of what tenancy law here is, and whose responsibility are repairs, so I only require advice about whether there’s a safe way to repair that side panel, or whether the unit should be replaced.
UPDATE: The shower is being replaced with a new shower by an electrician.


texts: How can I hang a large mirror on an uneven (warped?) wall?

texts:
I'm in the process of trying to assemble an exercise room in my home. Of the four walls, only one is continuous without any windows or doors so I've chosen to make it the 'mirror wall' and fill the length of it with mirrors. As the wall is 12' long, I can perfectly fit 4x 36x60" mirrors in portrait orientation.

These are borderless mirrors and are supported by screw-in clips on the top and bottom. They are being mounted to drywall.

I mounted the first mirror without any trouble, but when hanging the second I was frustrated by the difficulty in getting the top/bottom corners of the second mirror to align with the first. I then realized that the wall was slightly warped (I don't know a better term) such that when looking at the edge of the first mirror, it first appeared that the mirror was bowing out away from the wall, but I then recognized that the wall itself was bowing away from the mirror. I simply mounted the second mirror as close to perfectly as I could and moved on.

My problem now is the third mirror. This section of the wall is so warped that if I hold an inflexible object against it horizontally (such as a level), it will rock back and forth and I am unable to get the leftmost and rightmost corners of the object to lay flat at the same time. I haven't measured the curvature of the wall, but I'd estimate that it's curving maybe 5 degrees. I tried mounting the third mirror in spite of this flaw and due to rigidity of the mirror, if I slid it into the left 'clip', it would not fit into the right 'clip'. I tried to force it into position and the strain was so great that it ripped one clip straight out of the drywall.

Without completely removing and fixing the wall, is there any way for me to secure these mirrors while still keeping them borderless/frameless? If they were mounted in a frame, I could just use framing wire (unsure of the proper name) so that the mirror itself would not be affixed to the wall and it would instead be freehanging, but I don't think that is an option in the absence of a frame. I was considering somehow raising the rightmost clip by cutting a very small piece of wood to act as a spacer between the drywall and the clip, bringing it into alignment with the leftmost clip, but determining the thickness of the wood seems tricky.


texts:
I want to run some low-voltage wire in my yard for path/accent lighting.  I want to avoid connecting everything to a single segment of wire, mainly to reduce power loss associated with long runs.

So instead, I want to run a trunk wire, with branches splitting away from it.  I plan for the wire to be 12-gauge copper.

What's a suitable splitter for this purpose?  Ideally this splitter would also have a quick-disconnect functionality, but that's optional.


texts: I have been advise to convert old aluminum branch wiring with AlumiConn connectors and maybe also in the breaker box, unless the circuit breaker is AL & CO compatible. How do I determine this? Can I tell just by looking at the connectors?


texts: Extending joists to reach a new beam. What code to review?

texts:
I have spoken with a contractor about removing two load bearing walls (amongst other work).  The two load bearing walls are parallel but offset by two feet to provide space for a range/oven in the kitchen.  We discussed a somewhat goofy three-beam setup to manage this but it would sure be nice to have a single beam for the full span.  This beam would run roughly along the center of the house and there are presently joists running from each exterior wall and overlapping a foot or so over the to-be-removed wall.  Along with checking the point loads at the end, the joists above the to-be-removed walls would have to be extended to the new beam location from the existing load bearing wall location.  The shift is exactly two feet.

Where should I research code requirements for this?  The house is in Pennsylvania.  The contractor and their engineer would certainly confirm any final design but I would like to do some initial calculations to check plausibility.


texts: Connect 5w 100k ohm resistor between neutral and hot to prevent LED light blinking when switch is off

texts: I have touch operated light switches operating LED lights throughout my home. The switch manufacturer claims that I must add a device to circuits containing LED bulbs of 5w or less to prevent flickering. They show their device connected between the neutral and hot wires before the driver and after the switch. Some of the devices "popped" - they suggested to replace the device with a 5w 100k ohm resistor bridging the hot and neutral wire before the LED driver and after the switch. Does this make sense? Is this correct? Is this not a short circuit when the switch is on?


texts: Where is residential power voltage reduced to home level from the street line level?

texts:
What is the potential/voltage of the power line on a city street?
Where does the potential/voltage of the line drop to the indoor value, e.g., 120 V in the US?
If I need to upgrade the whole electric circuitry of a house, do I need to worry about the high voltage and if so, where does the high voltage starts to drop down to the indoor value coming into the house?
To address the concern expressed in the comment below, I am looking to hire an electrician to upgrade the electric circuitry including the panel, meter, distributor, weather head and riser. I am wondering what are actually involved and what kind of price I would expect to be charged. The house is a single family house in Sacramento county, CA, USA.


texts:
The paint on my bathtub has been ripped off so much like this:

What should I do to fix this?


texts: The deadbolt on the door is broken preventing opening the door.

texts: Schlage Deadbolt won't unlock to open door so I took off the lock portion to try to open it but the spring broke...nothing moves. It looks like it wasn't installed correctly, because there wasn't a strike plate and I can see that the bolt is stuck/jammed in the door frame.  What's the best way to get the bolt out without damaging the door? Thanks.


texts: What flushmate unit will fit my kohler toilets?

texts: My Kohler toilets have tank number K-4634-AA. I think it is a discontinued model in the Cimarron family. I want to install a flushmate on one toilet to see if the bowl cleans better when flushing. I'm unable to determine what flushmate model to purchase. The flushmate site is not straightforward. One site I visited mentioned a flushmate model for all two-piece toilets, with a couple of exceptions. I need advice on this. If possible I would like to order something online today.


texts: Is there a facility to remotely trip a RCCB/RCD?  I'd like to put an emergency power off button on my server room and am wondering if I really need an RCCB/RCD /and/ a contactor?


texts: Smell coming from clean bathrooms in apartment, possibly drains?

texts:
I am renting an apartment in the Midwest United States and I have noticed that during a change in the seasons that a rotten smell seems to be coming from the two bathrooms in my 2nd story apartment.

It really perplexed me for a while and made me OCD about cleaning them but I just can't get rid of the smell, though it does come and go, but it does not coincide with the cleaning. I have gone so far as to clean the drain traps for the sinks.

The only thing that seems to help is closing the drains, also the bathroom that I use much more frequently seems to smell better. The only thing that exacerbates the problem is turning on the bathroom fans.

These "facts" lead me to believe that the smell is coming from the drains. As a result I have tried pouring bleach down the drains and letting it sit overnight, and it doesn't seemed to have helped.

Is there anything I can do to confirm it is the drains? Is this a known issue in older (built ~15 years ago) apartments? Is bleach my best bet to kill the seemingly probable bacterial buildup?


texts: Should I remove old linoleum when replacing a linoleum floor?

texts:
I'm planning to replace the linoleum floor in my kitchen in the next few months. According to a friend, I do not need to remove the existing linoleum and can just lay down new flooring on top. However, this just strikes me as wrong.

So, should I remove the existing linoleum or not?

Not sure if it matters, but I'm considering bamboo, cork tiles, or marmoleum as the replacement.


texts: Is a plug with a repaired ground prong safe?

texts: my grounded cord lost the ground prong,  I drilled it out and replaced it with a prong which is the same size and length and epoxied it.  It fits precisely in the outlets.  Is it safe?


texts:
First I want to mention that I've studied telecommunications (here in my country, is very similar to electrical engineering, I've studied circuit theory and electronics), although I've only dealt with small electronics and they're not my current line of work anymore (now I do more AI stuff, not that it matters). With that, I want to say that: please, don't shy away from giving a full fledged answer beyond the basics, but there's no need to explain the purpose of the earth wire, the live wire and the neutral wire in a household electrical system. I understand that the earth wire is there to provide a ground-fault path for defective devices whose chassis become live and triggering the RCD circuit breaker.
However, it seems to me that you could have the same ground-fault path just connecting a small bridge between the neutral and the earth end of electrical outlets, since earth and neutral are connected anyway at the box so they share the same reference. I think this post in Reddit sums up very well my thoughts. After VVillyD's excellent response, GasDoves asks:

I still am confused. Can you help me out?
Can you explain what the difference would be between the following
situations:
A three prong outlet with neutral and ground ultimately connected in
the breaker box
VS
A three prong outlet that really only has two conductors, but the
ground has been jumped to neutral with a short piece of copper.

I don't think this is answered. In my mind, both of these setups would have exactly the same circuit. Perhaps I'm missing some non-ideal effect or there is a practical issue at hand?
[EDITED 2020/08/11] There was a mistake in the initial formulation of my question, as Ecnerwal pointed out. I meant "circuit breaker" instead of "RCD". I was thinking that, if the chassis becomes live, and it is connected to the neutral wire (or the earth wire, in a proper installation), then there would be a short-circuit and the breaker should trigger, signaling the home users that there's something wrong. The RCD, of course, would not play any role on this. My apologies, I'm not used to large electrical components! Also, I want to thank you for your responses! From what I could understand, the need of an earth wire essentially boils down to safety redundancy and to have a tidy role for each wire (and, of course, those are very good reasons!).


texts: How do I remove carpet adhesive from concrete?

texts:
I have a 12x15' sun room that currently has carpet over concrete. I pulled a 3' section of carpet and the entire floor has adhesive.

Can I remove this using a liquid chemical or do I need a machine?

The house was build in '96 so I'm assuming there's no harmful chemicals existing on the floor to worry about.

I plan to tile over the concrete when finished.


texts: Do I need an outlet box to install an outdoor light fixture?

texts:
We're getting a sliding door and deck installed this week and the town inspector said I need to have an outside light by the door.  I'm ready to tackle this part myself.   Most of the howto stuff I find online says "It's easy, just remove the existing light fixture..." and I have no existing light fixture.

Do I need to cut a large hole in the aluminum siding and mount an outlet box to attach the fixture to?  If so, how do I secure it?

Or is there a very low-profile outlet box I can put flush to the siding that won't stick out too much and won't require a huge hole?

Some of the fixtures in my house (not sure about the outdoor ones) have been installed without boxes altogether.  I'm guessing this is not code, and I'm further guessing this is a corner that one shouldn't cut for outdoor lighting.  Especially since the wall cavity has blown-in cellulose insulation--I feel like I should avoid having splices in contact with that.

Edit Thanks for the help.  In the end I went with the large hole and retrofit light box.


texts: How do I patch this hardwood floor strip?

texts:
I live in a >100 year old apartment building with a lot of temperature variation and the hardwood herringbone oak flooring is starting to show its age. What is the best way to patch this spot where two strips meet? Each strip is 2.5 inches wide and 18 inches long. The end of one strip was at some point cleanly cut in the past, and now the strip that is laid perpendicular to it has cracked. I would rather fill in the gap with a temporary solution than will get me by for a few years than do something more permanent like replacing both strips.

Here is the general area:

Closer view:

Side view:

Two more from the top:

By the way, that little white fleck is a grain of rice, not an insect.