texts: How do I attach a new Rain Sensor to my ancient Hydrotek sprinkler timer?

texts:
I am attaching a Toro RainSensor which has 1 red and 1 black wire to an old Hydrotek system.  I am not sure where to put the wires.  In the photos, the wires coming into the box from the left go to my electric, and the wires going out to the bottom right from the transformer go to the water switch.

I suspect I have to put the sensor between the currently connected blue /  white wires on the right (I am assuming the white wire is the "common" wire and the black wire is the "hot" wire - United States).  And yes, I will flip the breaker switch off before attempting any of this (and did so for the photos).

Photos (click for full-size image)

Two instructions from the RainSensor instruction booklet

Instructions from the Hydrotek

3 images of the current box wiring interior


texts: How do you put another outlet onto conduit

texts:
I'm debating how wire will be run in my workshop.  I asked a similar question earlier, but this deals specifically with working with conduit.
First off, I think I prefer running raceway along the walls.  However, I'm considering metallic conduit as a alternative.  If I run conduit, how would I go about adding another outlet (or something) in the middle of the conduit run?  Do I have to disconnect everything downstream from where I want the addition, pull the wire out of the conduit then cut the conduit, add the new receptacle and pull the wire back down the conduit to the downstream receptacles?  This seems like an overly laborious effort just to add "something" else to the current conduit, but I see no way of cutting the conduit without pulling the wires.


texts: How can I determine which outlets belong to which circuit?

texts:
I'm putting in a powerline Internet adapter for my house (something like this). My mom said it has two circuit breakers, but she has no idea how the house is divided between them. Going across breakers causes too much interference and is bad for the connection, but sometimes the Internet works well and sometimes it doesn't so the signal here is noisy.

Is there an easy way to determine which outlets in my house are on the same breaker? Powerline aside I'm also just curious to find the answer.


texts:
Not always but it happens from time to time.
A technician visited for this issue and at that time we couldn't reproduce the situation but he observed my coffee machine hit very high ampere like 9 or 11A at the beginning very shortly. but breaker unit can hold 20A. We guessed even though the reader couldn't catch it but it could reach to 20A or nearby threshold point. Anyway, he replaced the break unit with another and said let's see what would happen.
Later, I have the same problem one or two times a week again.

Now, I wonder if there is any high current holding outlet so that it prevent high current from flowing in a very short moment?

Or, is this coffee machine problem?


texts:
A gas tech had told me that we have a wrong type of adaptor connected to steel elbow. See image below.

The gas tech pointed to the elbow joint, but did not tell me what kind of joint I needed to use. Does someone have any idea what can be wrong with it? What kind of adaptor is needed? Thanks.


texts:
I have a solar hot water heater, and one of the pipes in the crawl space starting leaking.  I have shut off the pipes thru crawl space and just running off the electric for now.
The pipe with the run off outside is still dripping water and it has been almost a week.  Does anyone know if it is still water coming from the pipes draining.....or do I have another issue???
Thanks!


texts: Why does my kitchen faucet cut out intermittently?

texts:
Sometimes when I'm running water from my kitchen faucet, it will cut out for no apparent reason.  It doesn't seem to matter if I'm running hot or cold water (or a mixture), but does seem to happen more often if I'm running the faucet fully open.

I can usually fix it by closing and opening the faucet a couple of times.  If that doesn't work, pulling the trigger on the -- separate -- pull-out spray nozzle often does it, and if that doesn't work, just turning it off and leaving it for a while will do it.

What is causing this behavior and what can I do to prevent it from occurring in the future?


texts: Requirements for electrical wiring project for a house

texts:
I am remodeling a house and need to put in place a completely new electrical wiring along with security and surveillance systems (wiring for motion sensors and CCV cameras outside).

I am going to hire an engineer for the project. However I'd like to understand the typical requirements for such a project to be better prepared for my conversations with contractors.

My idea is to ask for a CAD project with a set of diagrams/views. Specifically, the following:

Blueprint with all the lights, sockets, switches, meter and
distribution board placed on the floor plan.
Schema listing the cable types and maximum power allowed per circuit.
Distribution board plan.
Exact layout of cable on walls/ceilings including enclosures, where needed (2D/3D?).

Once the above is complete, I would expect the engineer to control the execution of the plan and test the wiring once it is installed.

Overall, I want to accomplish 2 things:

Ease of maintenance for years to come.
High quality electrical wiring to be built.

Questions I have:

Are there any important artifacts/documents I should be asking the engineer to provide?
Should I be asking an electrical engineer to also design the wiring for CCV cameras and motion sensors or is this job best left to someone else?
Perhaps I am over-engineering and the above list can be simplified?

UPDATE
I am located in Europe and not concerned much with the local regulations as I am sure the requirements for regulators will be met at the end.


texts: How big a hole do I have to drill in concrete to embed rebar in it?

texts: I have a concrete patio that I'd like to use as the foundation for a CMU wall. I'd like the CMUs to be tied into the patio slab with rebar. I get that the gist is to drill a hole in the slab, put rebar in the hole, and then fill it in with concrete to anchor the rebar into the hole. What size rebar should I use, and how big a hole do I need to drill? If I use 1/2" rebar, can the hole be 5/8"? 3/4"? Does it have to be 1"? etc.


texts:
I need to construct an outdoor shallow ramp approx 4m long and 1.5m wide for a 1:12 gradient.
I'm considering metal sheeting for the walkway rather than decking but I don't know what thickness of aluminium or steel would be adequate or considered typical?


texts: Ok, I live in an historical home and am required to minimize the visual imperfections {conduit} So I would like to get the highest amperage capacity possible running #6 wire so I can stick to 1" conduit, is it true that THWN-2 has a higher rating than THHN? I read it was rated at 75 amps vs 60 for THHN


texts: Installing a New Electrical Outlet in a Modified Closet?

texts:
I have a closet that I've modified to be a vanity area (I have 2 closets and aren't interested in having a titanic wardrobe). I pulled off the closet doors and the closet clothing hanging hardware and made a floating desk.

The only thing I need is power for the blow dryer and lights I plan on adding. I've decided that a old work 3 gang box would be best (Having a duplex for electronics, and a light switch for the overhead lights).
Desk:

Intended Place for 3-Gang:

I plan on using the typical daisy-chain tactic between existing outlets in my room.

Closet Considerations:

I was reading some other posts about installing outlets in a closet (And objections to it, notably regarding closets being used to store objects and the outlet/objects plugged into the outlet being crushed, and I don't think that will apply here since this area will not be used for storage.

Code Considerations:
I'm not entirely certain how to wire the outlet up to code, and could certainly use some instruction with regard to this. I've chosen 14 AWG Romex wire for the install (Same as the already existing outlet). I know that I've seen contractors use electrical tape to wrap the screw terminals around the outlets, but what else would be involved in this installation? I also need to run wire behind the wall to get from one outlet to the other. I plan on following an install similar to for running the wire(https://youtu.be/eSMUnuoxdZQ).

What are the minimum requirements to wire a new code-compliant outlet like this in a closet?


texts: Should the support structure for a kitchen island be built on top of tiles?

texts:
I'm currently remodeling my kitchen, and I'm going to have a 9'x40" granite island in the new kitchen.  There will be only two 33" wide base cabinets under the granite top, one on each end.  The two base cabinets definitely will not have enough strength to hold the heavy weight of the granite top.

My contractor is going to build a support structure to support the weight of the 108"x40" granite top.  He laid a cement board on top of the subfloor in the kitchen, then tiled (porcelain) the entire kitchen.  He is planning to build the support structure on top of the tiles, but I'm not sure this is the right method.

Is building the support structure for the granite on top of the tiles the proper way to do the job, or should the support structure be built on top of the subfloor, or the cement board?


texts:
I engineered a downspout with a side hole to divert water.  However, I also need to cap off the bottom of the existing 2"x3" original downspout.

I can't find any "caps" anywhere so they might not exist.  Is there a way to cap off the downspout?


texts: how to take the sheen off baked high gloss surface

texts: I intend to paint my kitchen doors as they have faded into an almost cream colour I want to bring them back to brilliant white, however, as the kitchen doors are profiled sanding is not an option, and as the surfaces rejects any attempts of over painting, hence removing the sheen in order to create a surface key is imperative


texts:
There is some sort of pierce fitting on the cold water supply to my kitchen sink. It began leaking yesterday (I hope no sooner) anyways, I need to fix it.

My plumber friend said I could plug it, but that I should just call a plumber to completely remove it with a few inches of pipe and a quarter turn angle stop, which is probably what I will do. I tried to google pierce fittings, but that didn't really yield anything. Does anybody know what this is called? That way when I talk to the plumber on the phone they know what I am talking about?

thanks.


texts: Options to replace a non standard size window on a budget

texts: I have been slowly replacing windows in my home. I’m on to one which is a sliding window measuring 56”w x 36”h. The rough opening is 56.75x37.5” and the builder shimmed with 1x4s. I am posting to see if anyone has good advice as this is a non standard window size and the only one in the house. I’d rather not make the window smaller which seems like the easiest option.


texts:
I am trying to remove an HDTV wall mount from the TV, but: a handyman tightened one of the bolts overzealously, and now it's stuck.  Specifically: The bolt turns freely, but does not reverse out of the TV.  I assume the metal sleeve in the TV broke off, inside, and now my screwdriver is turning the bolt and the sleeve around it.

How can I get this thing out of the TV, and thus free it from the wall mount?


texts: Why would lights plugged in to lamp holder outlet adapter be testing as live?

texts:
We bought an old pendant light for our flat, with a two prong plug.  Rather than rewiring it in to the existing outlet, I just bought one of those $2 lamp holder outlet adapter.  To be on the safe side, I checked it with my contact volt tester, which lit up when it came within a few inches of the unit (not even in contact).

I plugged the pendant in to a standard wall fixture and all was fine (no charge on the casing, the tester only lights up with contact on the cable).  What's more, when I plugged our bedside lamp in to the ceiling adaptor the same thing happened - a good 2-3 inches out the fluke lit up.

Is there something about those outlet adapters which may be causing the pendant and lamp to be live?  Or perhaps the ceiling fixture is rated too high for the pendant and lamp?


texts:
I'm in the process of replacing some cabinets with a guard rail and need to attach a few newel posts to the floor. From what I've read it sounds like the Sure-Tite, lag bolt, method is very sturdy. It is recommended that the bolt goes into the joist but from my understanding doing so would cause 1-3/4" of a 5" newel post to hang over the edge (minus drywall thickness). Can someone help me understand how people are installing the post without the overhang?

I've attached a few images to help describe what I'm talking about and also two pictures of what I'm hoping to have my railing look like.

Thanks!


texts: Garbage Disposal only starts when manually kickstarted

texts: Whenever I turn my garbage disposal on, it just makes the humming noise and doesn't spin. I tried using the wrench a couple times on the crank underneath and it moves freely but when I run to run it again it doesn't work. The only way it runs is if I turn it on and then use the wrench to kick start it while it is on. (That's not an ideal method because the wrench flies out once it starts!)  Then it runs normal until I turn it off and if I want to start it again I have to go through the same process. Is it a matter of a clog that I need clean out of it more (I've already tried Drano) or is the motor just burned out and I should replace it?


texts:
I just purchased a house and I am trying to install a ceiling fan with light.
I googled but it shows white, black, and green cables but I have yellow, purple, gray, and red wires. Now which wire goes to what with the fan.
I haven’t purchased the fan yet. This are the wires in the ceiling. Also this is in the Chicago, IL (USA)
Please help me here?
Thank you!


texts: Need to install board and batten wood shutters to my brick house. What items do I need to do this how do I do it?

texts: I need to install wood board and batten shutters on my brick home and need to know what all I need to do it and how to do it. Thanks


texts: LED recessed fixture is consistently malfunctioning in a specific location

texts:
My parents just installed LED recessed lighting kits (integrated LED fixtures containing the diode and driver circuitry), and they are having a very strange problem.

One toggle switch controls about 6 recessed lights. When switching the lights on, 5 of them work just fine, but one of them only flickers. When turning the switch off, the flickering light suddenly gives a burst of very bright light.

My initial assumption was that the flickering bulb was defective. However, they swapped out the entire recessed kit for a new one, and the exact same behavior is occurring. Is there something else (some type of wiring issue?) that would be a likely culprit?

UPDATE: a similar effect is actually happening on a second circuit of identical fixtures. According to the installer, the malfunctioning LEDs are in both cases the last ones on the circuit. This seems like an important clue...

Video of the phenomenon here.

Thanks!


texts: electric shock from brass light switches

texts: I went to put out 2 light switches at the same time and got an electric shock from both of them. I'm just wondering whether this was static as I was sorting laundry from the tumble dryer or a more serious problem. I have kids and I'm petrified incase they get a shock from them too. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.


texts:
Anyone knows what model is this washing machine?

I'm trying to look for the part but can't find its model number.


texts: How much solar can I get, and when/why would it require digging up the street?

texts:
I recently got a couple of estimates for getting solar panels installed on our roof.  (I am in Southern California.)
The first installer recommended that we get 8kW of solar, and he said it would be no problem to install.
The second installer said that the maximum amount of solar we could get is 4kW.  He said that if we wanted more than 4kW of solar, this would require upgrading the wires from our house to the electric company (from 100 Amp to 200 Amp) and that doing so would be expensive and would require digging up the street to lay the new wires.
Any idea what the second installer is talking about?  I don't understand why that would be needed, because if electricity is flowing from the power company to us, the amperage shouldn't be any more than it is currently.  And if electricity is flowing from us to the power company, the amperage shouldn't be more than 33.3 Amps.  (8kW at 240V.)
Additional information:

Our utility is Southern California Edison.  (I called them to ask about this, but they said they know nothing about solar, and that we should consult with the installer.)

Both installers said that the breaker panel would need to be upgraded from 100A to 200A.  But only the second installer said that we would need to upgrade the connection to the utility (and thus dig up the street).  The first installer made it sound like our panel could have 200A internal capacity, and still just have a 100A connection to the utility.

Here is a picture of our panel.  (The breaker labeled "SPA" is actually the air conditioner.  The previous owners had a spa, but they removed it.  This breaker was unused, so when we had central air conditioning installed, we used the breaker for the air conditioning instead.)

Here is the label on the inside of the cover of the breaker panel:


texts: How can I remove a stuck overhead light fixture?

texts:
I recently decided that it's time to install some less hideous lighting in my apartment. Since it's an apartment, my options are limited because I must be able to restore whatever is there now if I move. I got a track lighting set and figured out everything I need to do, but now I'm stuck-- literally.

This is the fixture. It has 3 bulbs, and several screws to hold it on the ceiling. However, I have unscrewed every screw you can see including the central piece, and several screws that are hidden by the fiberglass, and yet the fixture remains completely stuck to the ceiling. I've tried tapping it with a hammer and sticking a butter knife between the ceiling and the fixture; no dice. All the screws are loose; there is no weight held up by them, suggesting something else is gripping the fixture.

I've seen posts on the internet that suggest some fixtures get glued in place by aggressive paint. I suspect that may have happened here, but I am hesitant to aggressively pry the fixture because it is so incredibly stuck. It feels like it's attached to a steel I-beam or something! I am afraid it might be attached to something other than the paint.

Random facts about the apartment:

Built in the 60's
I am not sure if it's plaster or drywall (unfortunately)

My current plan is to get a putty knife and a variety of paint solvents, and try getting the paint off. I heard that mineral oil might work, but I am not sure if that is a good idea. I'm afraid to damage things by using the wrong solvents.

Update: All the hardware stores are closed today/tomorrow so I won't get to try the great tips until Tuesday.


texts: recessed lights not working after outage, and problems removing housing clips

texts:
The day we had a power outage, we also noticed that one bank of recessed lights stopped working.  (Assuming they are related, but can't be 100% sure.)  The lights are on a dimmer switch.  I confirmed power at the switch, and that the switch is working (by swapping in another switch).

My next thought was to check the power and connections at the light closest to the switch.  Assuming that makes sense, I can't figure out how to undo the clips that would allow me to slide the housing and junction box out (photo below).  I've watched plenty of videos on how to engage the clips, but not undo them.  I've tried using needle nosed pliers in the circular hole and pulling with quite a bit of force down and in, but so far it's just bent the black clip and silver housing.  In case it's useful, the lights are L7XR Lithonia.  These lights are between floors, so I have no access from above.

Thoughts are appreciated!

UPDATE: As one more last-ditch test, I swapped out the dimmer for a simple switch, and lo and behold, the lights turned on!  The mystery is that I know the dimmer is fine because it works on a separate set of lights (and before that it was functioning fine for 3+ years on the lights in question).  I'm okay with just using the simple switch, but I am curious about what could be the cause of what I'm seeing.  Any more thoughts?


texts: How to remove flue from fireplace firebox with limited access?

texts:
This house has a non-functional fireplace. At some point in the past the external chimney box was removed, the flue truncated, the gas logs and burner removed, and the gas pipe capped off.

Since the firebox is now wasted volume, I'd like to place a PC, DVR, etc in it and run the cabling behind the wall to the TV mounted over the fireplace mantel.

It seems that the easiest way to get the cables through the firebox is to remove the flue from where it connects at the top back of the firebox and use that preexisting hole.

I have access to the attic and can get to the stub of the flue sticking up, and I can get inside the firebox and work through the vent hole, although it is obstructed somewhat by the damper. I don't have access to the firebox from outside it in any way except from the front.

What's the best way to detach the flue from the firebox in this scenario?  (The flue appears to be two concentric sheet metal pipes.)

If that's impossible, what's the best way to cut a hole through the ceiling of the firebox? (It appears to be double-walled sheet metal with fibreglass insulation between the walls). I don't care about ruining the firebox, resale value of the house is not an issue in this case.

Sketch of the setup:


texts: Can I replace a junction box with a piece of conduit if I rewire the circuit completely?

texts: I have a bathroom where the fixture was moved. Can I remove an old junction box if I use conduit joiners to splice in a piece of conduit ? I plan on rewiring the  fixture from the switch after.


texts: Cut a severe taper (70 degrees) using a compound mitre saw

texts:
I want to cut a few hundred stakes from scrap 2x4 lumber. The stakes would be 4ft long, and have a 70 degree taper at the end.

The most efficient method I can think of for cutting the tapers would be to use a compound mitre saw. However, the most severe angle/taper that can be cut with the compound mitre saws I've seen is 60 degrees.

Unfortunately, 60 degrees is not a severe enough angle for my purposes. The 60 degree taper does not penetrate hard clay soil well enough when pounded with a sledge hammer.
As I mentioned, I'm really hoping that I can use a compound mitre saw for this purpose (rather than a circular saw), because I think the mitre saw would be the most efficient method--in terms of time--by far.
How can I cut a 70 degree taper using a compound mitre saw?


texts: Is it acceptable to run 22/4 security wire along side Cat6 and Coax cables, or is there any possibility for interference?

texts:
Security wire is connected to motion/vibration/magnetic sensors and alarm keypad.

Can it disrupt the alarm system? or cause speed/performance loss in the cat 6 transmissions?


texts: Does gold window film reflects more or less light and heat than silver?

texts:
I'm going to put some mirror polarized window film both for privacy and because I get a lot of sun (and thus heat) and I was wondering if a gold or copper color film would reflect more of less light/heat than the 'classic' silver film, or if its the opposite.

Any info on this?


texts:
What is this rubber looking elbow here called and where can it be purchased? It's the black part that is fastened to the 3/4" pvc using hose clamps.

For some context, this is a condensate drain on an air conditioner. It was very helpful to be able to take it apart while troubleshooting a clog. I'm trying to add an auxiliary drain and need a piece that will do the right angle. I need to the name to find out where to buy it though.

I'd prefer to have a way to take it apart rather than gluing the 3/4" pvc together. I'm not a condensate or hvac expert so I may want to redo it later as well.


texts:
I just purchased this breaker box from Home Depot.  I'll be installing it in my RV.  Current will be supplied by a 12VDC to 120VAC, 3000W inverter.  I'll be using Single-Pole Type BR breakers.

Here's a picture of the box:

My current understanding is that I must install a grounding bar to the box.  This is my current understanding of how to connect the breaker to the main supply.:

Here is my understanding of how I would wire in new circuits:

Does this look right?  I would really appreciate your help -- I've been beating myself over the head about this.


texts:
Is this good placement for 4 inch recessed lights in bedroom ?
Size of bedroom  is 15' × 11'. Distance between each dot is 1 feet.
Yellow line show king bed size. Red dots show recessed lights. Ceiling height is 8 feet.
I want to avoid light directly overhead when sleeping.
Open to suggestions though.


texts: How to open this smoke detector in order to change battery?

texts:
I need to change battery for my home smoke detector, but I have no idea how to open this model.

I found many video tutorial on google, but have not seen any model similar to this one.

Does anyone have experience on this model?


texts: Need help identifying this drywall anchor used to lock in a ceiling air diffuser

texts:
Just finishing a whole house paining job and had to pull down all ceiling registers.  A few of the drywall locks went missing and I need to buy more but have no idea what they are called and cannot find them online.  This is what they look like:

I am sure they are on Amazon but have run out of search ideas.  Thanks for the help IDing it!!


texts: What is the mechanism of action of PVA glue?

texts:
The general wisdom is that wood glue sets harder than the original wood, but experiences and testimonies on this seem to vary.

Two weeks ago, I replaced some worn hinge screws on a heavy interior door. I reused the existing screw holes, applying some PVA glue (Titebond III) to strengthen the threads just in case.

I'm examining these screws now and noting that they are holding fast.

However, the threads themselves, though very solid and secure, are slightly gungy and sticky, with a tough treacly consistency when the screws are removed. The glue seems to have penetrated the surrounding wood, altering the material properties of the pine around the threads.

At two weeks, I had expected the timber to be back to its original consistency.

Bearing that in mind, what is the mechanism of action of PVA glue, and what seems to have happened in my case? Can I expect the pine to return to a hard/dry consistency over time?


texts: What to do about window trim pulling loose of the wall?

texts: We had new windows installed about 7 years ago. Then 2 years ago we had the space remodeled, drywall put into replace the 1950's panelling. Included nhew trim around windows. Then we put blinds up that are an outside mount. Tonight i see the blind pulling away from the trim...but really its the trim starting to pulling  loose from the wall! What do we do? Not real handy and hubs is having hand surgery soon. Thanks in advance


texts: How do you finish a window installation?

texts: After the window has been secured in the rough opening, how do you finish the inside part of the installation? For example adding a window sill and trimming out the inner portion of the rough opening, not the finishing trim around the window. Also does anyone have any videos or pictures of the process? The type and maker of the particular window i am installing is a ThermaStar by Pella 28" x 36" 10 Series Vinyl Double Pane Single Hung Window. Thank you


texts:
I’m installing a pendant light.  I took down the old light and I’m having trouble figuring out how to wire the new one.
My ceiling has a white, black and copper ground wire.
My pendant light has a copper wire, then a black, white and green wire.  The black white and green wires are plastic wrapped and all are encased in the cord that goes to the bulb.
What do I do with the green wire?
The instructions say “connect the wires” which is super helpful.


texts: how can I convert my AC under kitchen cabinet lights to LED lights?

texts:
Under my kitchen cabinets I currently have 120 volt AC florescent lighting.  I want to replace these lights with brighter LED strip lighting, which typically is run using 24v DC current.

The lights currently are turned on using a central single-pole switch.  I want to keep the single switch where it is and I don't need a dimmer.  My six cabinets sit to the right, left and across the room from the switch.

Under each cabinet there is a place where the electrical wire comes out of the wall and connects to the lighting fixture.

One way to do replace the current lights with LED lights and keep the same On/Off switch,  is to put a 24v transformer at the point where the current 120v wire comes out of the wall, for each cabinet, but that is six transformers and moderately expensive.

What is the right way to do this?  Do I need to rewire?  Or for instance, if I want to use a single 120v to 24v transformer, probably near the current light switch, can I use my current wire to run the 24v DC?


texts: Was this outdoor outlet properly installed?

texts:
This receptacle was installed prior to in-use requirements and placed inside the box instead of it being recessed.  This is an aluminum garage (separate from the house) and I am not sure what I should do?

I did purchase an in-use box, but I am not sure in this case since the aluminum is very thin and the outside wall is about 1/2" thick. Should I put the whole 15 amp receptacle in the box or try to recess it. Your advice would be appreciated.


texts: Do Silent Condensate Pumps for Air Conditioners exist?

texts:
I need to install a Condensate Pump in a new A/C in a bedroom, and there is no choice but to pump the condensate up to a drain on the roof.

The A/C technicians have told me about different types of condensate pumps, but they all seem to make an audible sound on regular basis when the pumping action kicks in, and even though the pumps would be on the outside of the wall of the bedroom, they will be right next to a window that will be next to a bed, so my fear is that the regular sound of the pump will be just loud enough to drive me insane as I wait for the next pumping round to kick in, and the next, and the next...

So I was wondering if there are any silent condensate pumps on the market that are also reliable and that will last for years without requiring maintenance.

Any ideas?


texts: How can I vent moisture from a small pump house?

texts: I have a small shed, 8x7, near the house that I use as a pump/filter house for a koi pond.  This building has a 7 foot deep basement made of cinder block which houses an open top settling tank, so humidity will be high.  The basement and main floor have a grate between them.  I was planning on having an air intake near the ceiling on the main floor and an inline fan in the basement to vent outside.  Is this backwards?  Do I need the intake coming into the basement and the fan exhausting from the main floor?  This building has R-19 insulated walls and R-30 ceiling.


texts: Wet Venting Combined Bathroom and Washing Machine

texts:
I am about to fully re-do the plumbing in my bathroom and could use some advice on my current layout. I am in a UPC region.
This house has a single bath with drain lines in a crawlspace, single story flat roof overhead. The bathroom is a long rectangle in the corner of the house and the sewer main is in that corner with a cast iron vent stack penetrating the roof. Instead of adding additional roof penetrations or attempting to splice into the existing iron pipe, I would like to try and use a maximum of 2 AAVs and a horizontal wet venting layout. The fixtures I have, in order from furthest from the sewer main, are:
Front loading washing machine
Lav
WC
Shower
I wanted to wet vent everything starting from the washer, but I didn't realize it has a 4 DFU rating, which I think would require a minimum of 3" diameter pipe for everything. Instead, I am trying to vent the washer separately and wet vent everything else from the lav with only 2" pipe.
I did a quick layout sketch (assumes 1/4 in/ft slope)

3" pipe straight run from wc to sewer main, 12ft long.
2" wet vent that starts at lav trap (using AAV in attic), ties in shower trap, ties into 3" pipe about 4ft down from wc.
2" washer trap with dry vent (another AAV),  2" drain pipe that is about 12ft long and ties into 3" pipe about 6ft down from wc.
Does this layout look acceptable?
Also, I understand the wye connections of the horizontal wet vent should be flat, but what about the 3x2 wye for the washer drain connection? Should this be rolled above centerline?


texts: Safe to mount curtain rod to support beam?

texts:
I'm hoping to mount two curtain rods to span a distance of about 14' so I can partition a portion of my finished basement and make it easier to heat. There is a single wooden support beam running the length of the intended partition. It's 6x8 and probably as old as the house, built in 1926.
Because of a dropped ceiling, only the bottom half of the support beam is exposed. If I were to mount the curtain rod hardware on the side of the beam, at least one screw per mount would be within the bottom third, which I understand is where the beam is in tension.
Is it safe for me to do this because the beam is so thick and the screws are small (1/8th wide, 2" long)? Or is it still a total no-no because I'm putting holes in the beam's bottom third?
Thank you kindly for any imparted wisdom.


texts: How can I determine where power enters my bathroom light circuit?

texts:
How do I determine if the power source is going right into the 3-gang box of switches, or directly to one of the fixtures (1 vanity light and 1 light/exhaust fan combo)?  What is the best way to install new light fixtures (say over the shower and/or bathtub), taking power from the light of the light/fan combo?

Essentially, we are looking to have the current switch that turns on the light of the light/fan fixture also turn on the new lights.  The other two switches will remain connected to their respective fixtures (the exhaust fan and the vanity lights).  Thanks!


texts: How can I keep from breaking my water hammer arrestor

texts:
My dishwasher is a serious piece of equipment.
It makes water hammers like crazy.
So I put one of these things inline to the supply:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quiet-Pipes-Washing-Machine-Water-Hammer-Arrester-38600/100069256

Everything goes quiet for 2-3 days (2-3 runs of the dishwasher) and then it starts again.
I assume it's breaking.
I've got through 3 of these things, different brands (sioux chief also fails), they keep breaking.

Is there a more meaty version of this device or a different way to solve the problem?


texts: What is the name for the kind of eye-bolt used to secure bicycle fender stays

texts:
I need a part that looks like this: it consists of an "eye"-bolt with a nut and washer which allows this part to be attached to a rod/tube of the right diameter.

These "bolts" are commonly used for attaching bicycle fenders; the picture is from a bike company. However, I want to know if these are available in arbitrary sizes, i.e. multiple combinations of:

Shank length and thread pitch
'Head' size and hole dia

etc


texts: My blower motor doesn't have the brown wires for a capacitor

texts: My blower motor only has 3 wires and there's no wires for a capacitor


texts: Drilling above laundry, hit something hard

texts:
I was drilling into my wall in my laundry closet (contains my washer, dryer, and water heater) to install shelf brackets above my dryer and washer.  After using a stud finder, I drilled where I thought a wall stud was above my washer, but it seemed that after drilling through the drywall part, the drill hit something solid.  I gave the drill some hard pushes, thinking it was hitting the stud, but the drill did not go any further.  I tried drilling in another spot around the same area and encountered the same thing.
I'm now worried that I hit a pipe of some sort.  It does not seem to be a water pipe at least, since there are no water leaks, so I am worried that I hit a gas pipe.  Would it be noticeable if I hit a gas pipe?  (I don't smell anything, so am reluctant to call the gas company if I'm just being overly paranoid). Is there anything else I should be concerned about, and, if so, how would I diagnose it?


texts: Why are my new switches tripping the circuit breaker sometimes?

texts:
Here's the scoop:

There are 3 switches in my hallway.  One switch on side A and two switches on side B.  Side A switch controls same light as one switch on Side B.  I replaced the switch on Side A and now, when the switches are in a certain configuration, you can hear a buzzing sound and then the circuit trips within 10-15 seconds.

I feel like its a grounding issue, but I don't want to touch anything till I'm sure.  The switches all work as they should except for when a specific configuration of on/off exists, the circuit goes haywire.

Any ideas on what the problem is given that a buzzing sound happens and then the circuit trips?

EDIT:
There are two lights, switch A and switch B1 control one light, and switch B2 controls a separate light

The wiring/power source is unknown - could come from the 2 switches at opposite end of hall.

The switch had to be replaced due to physical damage of the switching mechanism


texts:
Our bathroom exhaust fan is located on our second floor bathroom.  It's the original installed in 1986.   Suddenly, it started to make an unbearably loud noise upon operation.  So loud that the sound made a downstairs kitchen sink faucet fixture shake.

An additional unsettling thing about this fan is that this horrible noise starts up spontaneously.    We are not in this bathroom and the sound starts.

We think we've discovered a way to curb the horror once it starts:   Strongly depress a light switch (which has nothing to do with this fan) --and the noise stops.

Please help!   This is scaring me!


texts: Wet Adjacent wall and base board behind bath tub

texts:
I have a water leakage problem. I have a bedroom wall and baseboards that are getting wet due to water leakage coming from the bathroom adjacent to the room (the wall is right behind the bathtub valve and shower).  There is no sign of leakage in the bathroom nor around the bathtub area but there is something definitely leaking somewhere inside/under the tub that's seeping through to the other room.

My dilemma is whether to involve the insurance company to have them check it out and run the risk of potentially raising my future premiums or fork out the unknown cost to outside contractors to get the problem fixed myself. The unknown cause (and the extent of the problem) is what worries me.

So my question is, does anyone have any similar experience they can share so I can understand the potential issues I might have to deal with and its associated costs? From there, it might help me decide which path to take.


texts:
1 1/4", 1 5/8", 2 1/2", bugle head, trim head, drill point, sharp point, coarse thread, fine thread...

With so many different kinds of drywall screws available, how is anybody to know which type and size to use?

What are the uses for the various types/sizes of drywall screws?


texts: I'm looking for a plastic box with 2 open sides that can be attached to the wall. Maybe about 8x8 or 10x10. I need to cover a PVC vent pipe that curves in the corner of the wall.  I just can't find it.  I can imagine how it should look but have not found anything like it yet.  I don't want to box it in with 2x2s and drywall since it's so small and studs aren't in the right place so I'd have to make the box like 23 x 14 inches instead. A little plastic box cover would be so much easier and simpler.  Any ideas?


texts: Repair cracks in concrete block wall that's no longer moving

texts:
I'm fixing up my detached garage built in the early 1900's. At some point there was some movement in the walls (not the slab, the walls are built next to the slab). There doesn't seem to be any more movement; however, there are cracks left between the blocks (none of the blocks themselves are cracked). It seems to be a combination of some decay in the mortar and the settling.

The largest crack seems to be about 3/4" wide and runs from the bottom of the wall zig-zagging up about half way to the corner of the wall.

What would be the best way to fix these cracks? Cleaning them out and adding more mortar?


texts: Is a vertical crack in a wall stud okay as long as the wall isn't load bearing?

texts:
In the photo above you can see that a pipe was put through a 2x4 and that the 2x4 splintered/cracked somewhat as well. This is framing a bathroom in the basement. On the Framing perpendicular there is a steel beam support the house.

I don't think that the framing around the bathroom is supposed to be a major load bearing wall. Is this 2x4 okay as is or should I have it replaced?


texts: Use existing 200A panel as temporary sub-panel off of new 320A service panel

texts:
Currently I have 200A electrical service that's brought to my house above ground and into the basement on the right side of the house, which feeds a 200A panel. I'm in the process of getting my service upgraded to 320A, which will be brought in underground and on the opposite side of the house.

It's an old house with mostly knob and tube wiring, so I will be eventually upgrading the electrical wiring throughout the house. But for the time being I need to complete this 320A upgrade (I'm working with the local electrical utility company, and have a permit which expires in a few months), while maintaining my existing electrical wiring. Since the new service will be on the opposite side of the house, I cannot simply re-wire all circuits to the new panel. What I'd like to do is temporarily use the existing 200A panel as a sub-panel to the new 320A/400A panel. The 200A panel obviously has its own 200A master breaker, so in theory it seems quite possible to wire the 200A panel as a circuit off of the new panel, assuming the correct gauge heavy duty wiring is used.

Is this temporary use of the existing 200A panel as a sub-panel possible? What steps would be involved to do this correctly?

Thank you!


texts: Running electric cables in basement shop

texts: I am setting up a workshop in the unfinished area of my basement.  I need to run a couple of electrical outlets and would like to run them along the block walls through grey PVC.  Will this be a problem or should I use metal conduit instead?  There's one circuit already installed by a previous owner, but I'll be removing it.  He has 12/2 romex draped from the bottom of the joists running into metal conduit (one per outlet) which ends about 18" below the joists.  Not only does it look bad, the romex drapes from counduit to conduit, entering each conduit with no protection from the sharp edge of the pipe.  The electric panel is in the same area as the workshop.


texts: Honeywell home ventilation system with no c wire for thermostat. How can I substitute the g for the c without blowing a fuse?

texts:
I'm hoping to get some help with my thermostat problem. We bought our home brand new and it came with a very basic thermostat (non programmable and runs on batteries). I want to upgrade it to a wifi programmable thermostat so I bought a honeywell one. Our home has a honeywell ventilation system that pulls fresh air from the outside and circulates it through the home. As I read the instructions to use the g wire for the c wire it seemed easy enough. I am handy enough that I finished my own basement electrical and all do I figured it can't be too hard.
So I pulled the old thermostat off after labeling the wires. Put in the new wifi one and used the g wire for the c. Went to my furnace and I have wires running all over. Into the furnace from upstairs is just a 4 wire, I have no extras. All wires are connected to the furnace board except the g wire is connected to a wire that runs up to the honeywell ventilation system and then another set of wires returns back to the furnace board.
I figured out which of the return wires is the g wire and attempted to move that to the c wire in the furnace board then out a jumper in between the y and g on the same board. At first I thought this made it work because I was able to setup the wifi thermostat because it was receiving power. I setup the wifi and set the temp and the ac kicked on so I figured I was good to go. About 10 minutes later though the power to the thermostat was gone and I blew the 3amp fuse in the box. I tested it again and sure enough, after 10 minutes the new fuse blew.
can anyone help me understand what is going wrong and what I need to do to fix it so I can use my new thermostat?  I did call the person that installed my system and he didn't seem too thrilled about answering my questions.


texts:
I know you can buy plates that have 2 Cat6 connectors and 1 FType, or 1 Cat6 and 1 Ftype - but what I am needing is 4 Cat6 and 1Ftype, I know that is an odd number so I would settle for 5 Cat6 and 1 F Type.

Since I see no plates already made this way, is there a way to "crate my own" that will give me this setup?


texts: Uneven poles for fence with wood railing?

texts:
What can I do if the steel poles used for a fence are uneven? They're all supposed to be the same height, but for some reason, they're uneven (ie. surface is uneven, the welder din't measure correctly, etc). Every pole has a plate at the top where I can insert screws to hold a 2x4 long piece of wood. The poles and the floor cannot be changed.

What can I do if they're uneven? I was thinking of maybe using washers to fill up the extra space, but there has to be a more elegant solution.

Thanks.


texts: Why is the neutral wire the same size as hot wire in a 3C cable?

texts: I thought that the wire size depends on the amperage that the current passes. However in a 3 conductor cable, the size of the neutral wire is the same as the hot wire; which puzzles me. If both hot wires carry 15A current, the neutral wire will carry 30A current.


texts: Should I put a dimmer switch on a ceiling fan?

texts: I have a ceiling fan on our bedroom's vaulted ceiling. Since we don't want 7' pull-cords, the speed is stuck at full-tilt, which is no good. The fan has separate switches on the wall for lights and fan on/off, though, so I tried putting a dimmer switch on the fan. Can that do any damage to the fan's motor, or is there anything else I'm not thinking of that could be a problem? I've noticed the fan makes a little bit of a groaning noise when I have the rheostat down, but since I've never heard the fan at slow speeds, maybe that's normal.


texts: How many Amps in a Garage. AND how to maintain consistent lighting from an outlet (no flickering)

texts:
I have two questions that hopefully someone more experienced than me can answer.

Background: I am doing a claymation in a garage and need to set up a lighting system that requires (a.) lots of wattage and (b.) constant voltage so lighting stays extremely consistent [doesn't get dim or flicker despite other people using outlets].

The garage is connected to about 20 other garages in an apartment complex, so it is not a typical house hold garage.

Question 1: (A.) There is one outlet on the garage ceiling. How many amps would you assume is connected to this outlet (20? 50? 100?) It may be impossible to know but perhaps there is a standard amount of amps that apartment garages need to have. I figure it would have to be more than 20 because if 4 garages are opened at the same time, the breaker would trip.

(B.) How many watts could I draw from this one outlet?

(C.) How can I find out how many amps are in the garage? Where would the circuit breaker be to find it?

Question 2: The lights I have set up go dim periodically (perhaps when others open their garage). How do I maintain constant light? (Voltage stabilizer, online ups?) I'm not sure what those are, but what is my best option to make sure those lights are always a consistent brightness?


texts: What do I level a 2" slope in my concrete basement floor?

texts: I want to finish a 12'x36' part of my basement. The trouble I am having is that it is sloped to a floor drain. I was told that DRIcore and shims would work but the drain is a 2" slope down from the ends and that is way too much to shim. I do have a French drain system going around the exterior walls that drains to this drain so I need to find a way to bring up the floor and not affect the drain. The next trouble is that the floor is painted and I can't seem to remove the paint. Chemicals don't seem to work and a floor grinder didn't either.


texts: How do I adjust this "hidden" door hinge?

texts:
How do I adjust this type of hidden door hinge so that the hinge part on the door itself gets closer to the hinge part on the door frame? I figure it's done using the two top and bottom hex screws on the door side hinge, but no matter how I screw or unscrew them the difference is unnoticeable.

It's the Italian brand Nusco.

I need to do this because the upper part of the door has a bigger gap when closed, as you see below, and creaking occurs.


texts: How do I refill a fire extinguisher or should I just buy a new one?

texts:
My fire extinguisher is out of charge and I want to either refill it or buy a new one.  Is it better/cheaper to refill it or just buy a new one?  (Can I even refill this fire extinguisher?)

EDIT:


texts: Installing an outdoor inlet for a portable generator

texts: I've purchased a portable generator that I'm planning to use in case of an outage.  I'm not wanting to wire this to my house wiring; I'm just planning to install an outdoor inlet wired to a dedicated outlet in the house, and connect a power strip to some items during an outage.  What do I need to be aware of in this kind of setup?  Do I need to install a separate ground line for this outlet?  Would I be violating any kind of code with this install?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.


texts: Can new cabinets be installed with old floor tile cutouts?

texts: I'm doing a kitchen remodel. After ripping out the cabinets, I noticed that there were no tiles underneath them. Since the tiles are in good shape, is it possible use this exact same tile cutout with new cabinets? How likely is the new cabinet going to exactly fit these cutouts? Do the new cabinets even need to match exactly? Or is it much more preferable to install new floor tiles wall-to-wall?


texts: How to add dimmer to "one switch controls another switch" configuration

texts:
In my dining room, I currently have a switch configuration that functions as follows:

Switch 1: when toggled, turns light on/off
Switch 2: when toggled, turns Switch 1 on/off

Can I have 2 dimmers or 1?  If so, would I use 3-way or 1-way?  Currently, both switches have 4 wires running to them, each.

Note:  House was built in 2013.


texts: Gas Furnace Electrical Schematic Diagram - Meaning of Plus Sign inside Circle?

texts: ....Question: On my gas furnace (DMO Industries MM series)  electrical schematic diagram  there are two  places that have a symbol of a plus sign inside a circle.....what does it mean? (see wires 39 and 40 on photo going to symbol of plus sign inside circle on 2nd photo....see wire from GROUND on ingnition module going to same symbol on  first photo ...Note: All grounds on diagram (furnace, blower, inducer motor grounds) are not denoted by this symbol but usual ground symbol)


texts: Cut the skirting in around my new fireplace, scribing, fixing etc

texts:
I have just had a new fireplace installed. When the skirting was put in I had my carpenter cut me 2 pieces in preparation for the fireplace.
I would love to improve my wood skills so a small project like this seems perfect (I have 2 fireplaces)

Should I just measure all the different lengths and try and draw it onto the skirting or should i scribe it on? I am unsure how would I scribe something onto a piece of wood that cannot be shortened on the left afterwards... Can you please explain?
What saw would you use to make the mains cuts? (I have a jigsaw, will that do?)
What saw would you use to cut around the gas pipe? would you make this a circle? a drill bit perhaps? how would i drill on the edge of a piece of wood without making a mess?
I assume I would use wood glue for the mitre cut, but What glue would you use to fix the skirting to the wall?

Thanks so much for your help!


texts: Tesla Mobile Connector tripping GFCI on NEMA 5-15

texts:
Many times when I plug in my Tesla, the GFCI 5-15 outlet in our garage trips, killing the whole circuit. It usually works fine after resetting the GFCI and trying again. This happens whether or not I have the charger plugged into a regular outlet or the GFCI one.
I've read that GFCI outlets "get old/wear out" over time and become more sensitive, and this one is likely at least 6 years old. Something about Tesla charger testing out the ground when starting to charge? Would it be a good idea to try and replace it? It appears it's on a 20amp circuit (at least, all breakers in panel are 20amp+), so I should be alright going with a 5-20 receptacle while I'm at it, correct? Might as well get a little extra amperage if I'm going to replace it anyway.
Update: I purchased a new 5-15 outlet and installed it, have had no issues since.


texts:
My shower is 2 years old. It has an acrylic Pan, tiled wall all the way to the ceiling and frameless glass doors.
About a month ago I started getting moisture on the floor next to the back rear corner of the shower pan. I checked for leaks in the caulking along glass door.  None found. Seems to be just the caulk on the floor tile.
Any suggestions on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Best approach for squeaky subfloor fix, with some water stains

texts:
We are replacing the carpet in our kids room and want to tackle the subfloor as it squeaks. There are two questions I have:

1 We plan on screwing down the existing subfloor, do I need to remove any of the nails in the subfloor? Someone I know did this but a contractor said it was overkill.

2 There are what look like dry water spots in some corners, near the exterior wall. Do I need to be concerned about these? We are having the siding on the outside of that wall replaced soon, so if there is a leak I assume this will be fixed then.

Some photos at https://goo.gl/photos/RH3CpsbfD24xY62V7


texts: How to remove an Accuride drawer rail on a Diebold fire-safe filing cabinet?

texts:
The filing cabinet has two Accuride slides on each side of the double wide drawers:

Trying to figure out how to remove the drawers for moving purposes.  Don't have a fork lift on delivery end.


texts: Zoned heating system very warm even without heat on upstairs?

texts:
I know heat rises, but our 1st story floorplan house gets pretty darn warm during the winter months.  Other than turning on the AC or opening windows in the upper story zone, anything else that could be done?  The majority of the square footage is downstairs and there is only one small stairway leading upstairs.

Forced air heat, supplies overhead. Upstairs is a separate zone. Displacement of sqftage is about 600 upstairs, 1800 downstairs. There are 2 zones, upstairs and downstairs. The downstairs is set to 70 in mornings, but gets up to 75 degrees upstairs without running heat up there. For the upstairs, there is one return air vent in the main rec room. Downstairs there are two in the hallway and master bedroom.


texts: Thermostat broken or central air system?

texts: Thermostat works sometimes, other times I have to shake the switch to get the air conditioner working. Is this a problem with the thermostat or the central air system? Thermostat is about 15 years old, air conditioner the same age.


texts:
My gas fireplace pilot will not light. It worked fine a few months ago until I shut if off.  My lighter has a knob which I turn towards pilot and hold pushed while I push the igniter button.

a few observations:
1.  I don't smell gas or hear anything when pushing in the knob to pilot
2.  Spark is visible

What can be causing this?

Thanks,


texts:
I did quite a bit of research including on this forum but wanted to double check if I got things right. On the outside of our home there is a standard electrical box (guessing about 3"x5") to install an outlet. There is no outlet yet but just a cover and inside the box is a 4-wire (3 conductor + ground) 12AWG cable with red, black, white and bare conductors. It was meant to be used for an outside kitchen appliance but then stayed unused. However, I have a need for a 120V (GFCI?) outlet at that position and need to pull 120V to an outside counter top. The pipe from that outlet to the counter top is already in place. All of this is shown in the image below. The electrical box with the yellow wire (3 conductors + ground) and then the pipe with the gray wire that will go into the box.

On the breaker box there is a double 20A breaker. See the second image below.

So the idea is to do a MWBC. I would connect:

White conductor from yellow cable to white on gray cable + neutral on standard 120V receptacle.
Bare conductor from yellow cable to bare on gray cable + ground on standard 120V receptacle.
Red conductor from yellow cable to black on gray cable.
Black conductor from yellow cable to hot on standard 120V receptacle.

Since the black and red are on different phases I should be able to pull 20V from each without burning up my neutral. Does that plan sound correct and is that up to code?

An alternative I guess would be to replace the double breaker with a single breaker (see bottom image. I guess I could use 20A but going lower doesn't do any harm) and a cover. Then I only have 120V on either the red or black with the other not being connected to anything. The biggest issue I have with this is that it seems I have to take the wire from the current breaker and connect it to the new breaker but I believe there isn't a way to kill power on that wire because it's in the main panel and not a sub panel. Or does the quadruple 200A switch kill power to all the other breakers in the main panel? In any case, the MWBC is preferred if it's up to code.

[4

Edit: Based on comments I added a drawing if making the change in the service anel. Please see the hand-drawing at the bottom. This is not really want I want to do, i.e. preferably I like to keep the service panel unchanged and just create two 120V outlets from the 240V outlet.


texts: Does there exist such a thing as mini-scaffold?

texts:
I'm looking to create an anti-RSI workstation.

Something like:

(only that particular one happens to be a scam called NEThrone)

Only what I have in mind is hacking together something using maybe a car seat, an adjustable monitor arm, and some kind of scaffolding rig.

I've used scaffolding in the past, and you can build pretty much any structure with just 2 parts: pipes and clamps.

However, scaffolding is heavy duty, designed to support thousands of kilos. It's going to be very clumsy working with this.

I'm wondering whether there exists some lightweight alternative. Maybe tubes that are a quarter the diameter.

So my question is specifically this: does such a thing exist?

I would imagine people would use something like this to build home-gyms.

PS If anyone can suggest some online community that may be appropriate for enquiring about this project, I would be very grateful. It seems to be off topic everywhere. But this SE site is designed for people who are building their own solutions -- maybe someone can suggest something?


texts: Was it ok to add an outlet on a home run in the attic?

texts:
I had the following setup for a room, running on 15A breaker with 12/2

I wanted to add an outlet in the attic above this room so I did this:

There was enough slack in the wire, so I added the outlet in a plastic (blue) junction box and outlet using the existing wire from the breaker.

Should I have done it the way depicted in the image below? (Add yellow line)

The reason I didn't is because the junction box labeled '1' would have been overstuffed with wires, not to mention that I would have had to run an extra wire.

But I can't help but think I was supposed to do it this way.

Is what I did fine? I realize I should have asked prior...


texts: What is the recommended way to clean oil based stain out of a spray gun?

texts:
I would like to know what the proper or recommended way to clean the oil based stain out of my spray gun after use is.

I am using this stain product.

I have the following antique spray gun:


texts: How do I go about fixing this window that won't pull shut, either temporarily or permanently? So much cold air is leaking in

texts:
Album link: https://imgur.com/a/I64sdOR

By looking at the other windows that function properly this one white lever should cause two little arm thingies to pull the two brown tabs inward and shut the window. The problem is neither or the metal bits inside the frame are doing their job. I sprayed both ports with WD40 and that did not help.

Pushing the window closed from the outside doesn't work either, it just bounces back to the position shown in pics 2 and 3 which lets in so much cold air.

Any ideas how to properly fix this? Or the type of latching mechanism even? Don't even know what to google.


texts: How do I get crisp, clean edges in the corners where two paint colors meet?

texts:
I am about to renovate my room. A part of this plan includes painting all but one wall and the ceiling white, the other wall will be bright green. My walls are lightly textured and if this makes any difference, the original surface under most of the walls is plaster and lathe (with the exception of the wall being painted green, which is drywall). The surface I will actually be painting over will be the previous coating of yellow semi-gloss paint that is about 20 years old.

So here's my question... How do I get crisp, clean edges in the corners where two colors meet (keeping mind that these are semi-gloss walls and are textured)?


texts:
I'm in WA state. PoCo is Mason PUD #1. AHJ is WA L&I. I recently had my first inspection after replacing meter box, breaker panel, lots of house wiring. Only flunked for 7 things. One of them was "label panel circuits and mount cover with 2 screws for next inspection". I left the cover off so they could see inside. I didn't label the circuits in case they told me I needed to change any. Go figure.
I want the labels on the panel to be meaningful to me, to the inspector, and to the next poor person who has to figure out what they mean. I'm looking for any/all suggestions for what you all use. E.g., What abbreviations would be easily understood? What details are important to list? Most circuits are straightforward (e.g., just refrigerator, just microwave). A few are more complex (e.g., living room receptacles and lights, dining room ceiling fan). Once I get some suggestions, I'll use them to describe the complex ones - perhaps then I can get feedback on them (hopefully not feedback saying just don't do that, but if so, I'd rather know now than at the next inspection).
And to answer questions that may come up on the complex ones, this was a remodel. Some walls had drywall, some had T&G wood, some had tile. As much as possible, I didn't want to have to open walls. I straightened things out as much as I could without going to excessive lengths. So, somethings may be a bit strange, but if they are just plain wrong (i.e., not code compliant), I'd love to know.


texts: Is it ok to use vinyl sheet as a temp cover for a boiler flue hole?

texts:
I have an unsealed boiler flue hole like the picture:
I was going to acquire and use some vinyl sheet however I have just realized I have some cushion vinyl lying around.
As a temporary fix, will it be ok to use that?  Or can the heat from the boiler cause the vinyl to heat up and be dangerous?
Thanks.


texts: Remote control with offline functionality | Home Automation

texts:
I would like to control a particular light with a normal mechanical switch as well as using a mobile app.
The use case is as follows:-
If the mechanical switch is ON, I want the light to glow and it's switched off if the switch is OFF.
Even if the mechanical switch is ON, I want to switch it off using a mobile app (as well as ON).

So, should I implement a staircase wiring in this case? (I do not want to use Belkin switches, I plan to use a relay, ESP8266 and arduino and, ofcourse openhab).

Is this an old method? Is there a better way to implement the same?


texts: What insulation materials for converted vans?

texts:
I want to add insulation to the ceiling, walls, and floor of my van as a first step to convert it.

What are the recommended/available materials for that aim?

By "convert" I mean to turn a regular vehicle into a something one can live in. Like this sweet Mercedes Sprinter below :)


texts: Connected a new faucet, the pipes drip but only a little bit, is that a problem?

texts:
I installed a new kitchen sink faucet into a kitchen with over 60 year old plumbing.  I tightened the connections at the point where the rigid piping meets the flexible risers, and there was some dripping, but only 10 to 20 drops per hour.  I tightened them as much as I dared; any more and I fear I would have risked damaging something.
I put cups under both connections.  The cold has stopped dripping (or maybe it now drips so infrequently that the water in the cup evaporates before I can look at it).  The cup under the hot has only 1 or 2 teaspoons of water in it after 3 days.
Need I be worried?  I live in an area with very hard water and I suppose lime deposits are flowing out and have blocked/will block the hole.  The hot pipe in particular had streaks of lime all over the pipe threads; I tried to clean it but didn't get very far.


texts: Are electrical switches under kitchen sinks common for any utility?

texts:
So, I was cleaning under the kitchen sink and noticed there is a switch under there! It isn't clearly marked what it's for, I tried playing around with it and the garbage disposal thinking maybe it was a maintenance safety, but it didn't seem to have an effect.

I was just curious, is there a common reason for switches to be placed under the sink?


texts: Opened washing machine door when it said it had finished and water came flooding out

texts:
The washing cycle had finished and I couldn't open the door but when I finally did all of the water came flooding out. Have I broken the washing machine? And how come it said it had finished but was still filled with water and didn't drain out? I wouldn't have opened the door if I had known it was filled with water
Please help- is the washing machine broken???


texts:
I know you've seen these things. It's an indestructible black fiber-plastic cart body and a pair of 20 x 2.125 inch wheels with plastic spokes.

Does anyone know if I can replace the tires with the same size bicycle tires with tubes on the original wheels? Hate to throw out the wheels which also are shaping up to be indestructible (but not the tires).


texts: Can duct tape be used to mark neutral wires?

texts: Hello I’m in search of code requirements as they relate to the use of duct tape for marking the neutral conductor in the service panel.  My understanding is this is a code violation as duct tape is a conductor and also degrades with time but I’m not able to locate the code. Please see attached photo and provide any code specifics you might know.  Thank you!!


texts: Difficulty finding studs on external wall of renovated house - any good rules of thumb?

texts:
I'm trying to find studs on an exterior wall of a recently (10 years?) renovated house that I'm renting.  I've had issues before where the studs in a wall seem to be a bit wonky - irregularly space, sometimes studs that don't go all the way up to the ceiling, etc.  I also have problems where my stud finder will think there's a stud, but when I screw in there, it turns out there is no stud.
Fast forward to today - I'm trying to hang some curtain rod holders over a double-door to the outside on an external door.  I found one stud to the left of the glass door, but I'm struggling on the right.  My magnet stud finder found one down low, but it doesn't seem to go all the way up.  And my other-kind-of stud finder, gives me unreliable lights when I run it across the top of the wall looking for one.  It has hinted at a couple of places that turned out to be empty behind the drywall.
And, oddly enough, there don't seem to be any above the door frame - though when knocking on it, that part of the wall sounds solid (as opposed to the hollow sound you get on most walls).
So my question is this - when contractors are doing renovation work, and may be adding extensions or things like that, are there any rules of thumb for how they build things out?  Are there times when the studs above a door frame would be differently spaced than those below?  And are there any other kinds of wall construction that would lead to me finding so many frustratingly non-standard walls in a recently renovated house?
For what it's worth, here are 3 pics of the inside wall (since a single photo is all washed out due to the light from the door), and one of the outside.


texts: Can I put a low-voltage transformer in the attic?

texts:
I'm planning a low-voltage monorail light system,
fitted with 10x 7.5W 12V AC LED light heads. The manufacturer provides a "remote electronic transformer", and the installation instructions call for "remote but accessible location" for the transformer.

Can I put such transformer in the attic space above the room?

The attic is insulated, so the transformer will likely need an additional
enclosure box (like this)

I looked up the California Electrical Code 2016 but couldn't find a paragraph which would explicitly allow or disallow such installation (and everything <1000V is considered low-voltage by the code, which doesn't help with search)

Besides, the attic space gets quite hot during the summer, and the
transformer has a thermal shut-off. So maybe it is not a good idea
to put it there anyway.

The alternative option I have is to install the transformer inside a closet
nearby, but again I'm not sure whether this would be allowed by code.


texts: What is the best tool for cutting up scrap wood?

texts:
I have some wood left over from building a patio, mainly some planks.  Normally when I'm creating firewood, I just use an axe a split the wood, but these are too long for that.  I really don't want to try and cut them with a wood saw or an Axe.  The only tools I can think that make sense are a Jig Saw or a chain saw.

So what I'll probably do is cut them down with the jig Saw (and maybe split them with the axe)

What other alternative are there?  Should be something hand held, I don't think a band saw or a circular saw would make sense.


texts: How do I replace 2x4 outdoor decking with 1x4 hardwood decking?

texts:
I have a small entry area deck outside my front door, roughly 70 sqft.  The deck is currently made of 2x4's and a few 2x6's screwed into ~16" on center floor joists.

I replaced the front door and siding.  I now want to replace the deck surface.  I am thinking of replacing the current 2x4 and 2x6 boards with 1x4 hardwood deck boards.

I can unscrew the current 2x4 floor boards, but then how do I makeup for the 3/4" difference (2x vs 1x) in floor board thickness?

I want the new deck to work with the current door threshold height.  Will I need to replace the current floor joists?


texts: Need LED lighting suggestions for a hobby spray booth

texts:
I am writing the plans to build a small indoor hobby spray booth largely used for aerosol acrylics and acrylic airbrush but possibly some aerosol enamels at times.  I am using a range hood which includes weak (2x 25w) incandescent bulbs.  I want to install LEDs inside of the spray booth; fluorescents can be an explosion hazard for some aerosol paints.  I would like to get roughly the same lighting as 2x 100w Reveal light bulbs, or brighter if possible.  I have been looking at various cabinet LED solutions but I am not sure if they will be bright enough.

I will be installing flexible arm LED lights on the outside of the booth for looking in so the LEDs just need to illuminate from the top and back of the target.


texts: Can a window A/C unit be installed without the side panels?

texts:
I really like this A/C unit and its width is exactly the width of my window panel (21.5"), but the "Window opening minimum width" in the specs is 23". From what I've seen in the Q&A for this Frigidaire unit, is that The side panels, fully compressed, add 2" to each side. However, other A/C units (LG), on the same retailer site, have their width equal to the window open minimum.

Are side panels necessary?


texts: What grit sandpaper should I use between coats of polyurethane?

texts:
I'm planning on applying polyurethane to a pine bench I've finished staining. I decided on foam brushes for application, but I wasn't sure what grit sandpaper I should use between coats. Is 400 good enough? Or should I use 600? Or both?

Also, if anyone has any recommendations for application other than foam brushes, I wouldn't mind hearing them.


texts: How to achieve a straight line when not flush to required wall?

texts:
Currently preparing an area in our garden to lay a paved patio area and pergola (the latter being provided by a professional).

My wife and I need to build a supporting wall around the sides and at the top side (see the photos below). Essentially, the supporting wall needs to be parallel with the brick wall (Which is actually our garage)

What my wife and I cannot figure out - and we're not entirely certain that this is a 'common issue' - is how to get a straight line with a wall that is 'higher up' than our supporting wall.

Being that we cant simply butt up our builders square, because the wall underneath the brick wall isn't straight by any means (and we doubt we can get it straight/want to!) - how do we plan to build a parallel, straight wall?

Other photos for reference:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1n0uZGcJKewga6NwDj0t0hq0YT7brKBjd
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a4cKgta-jaHFm3Nj2UcmzEQPjZK8fy-A


texts: How do I fix a slow draining garbage disposal?

texts:
I put an avocado skin down my garbage disposal, and since then, the sink doesn't drain well.  If I run water for 10+ seconds, it fills up the disposal a decent amount, and will drain if I turn on the disposal or turn off the water.

I've reached in to the disposal, and found nothing that I could feel obstructing things. Any ideas on where my obstruction is, and how to remove?


texts: Why not use tile instead of mineral wool for sound proofing?

texts:
I read that the heavier  the  material the better it blocks sound.

Then why do people stuff their walls with soft insulation like mineral wool.

Why  not just put clay/ceramic tiles or wooden boards
If the purpose is to decrease decibel levels ?


texts: How to determine if my house is continuing to settle?

texts:
My house has settled a bit since it was built 100 years ago, especially the porches which aren't over the main foundation.

It seems to me that some doors have become harder to close over the past 2 years, which makes me wonder if the settling is ongoing.  I imagine I could, once per quarter or so, use a laser level to measure the total rise on a now-angled trim piece.  Is there a standard practice or better way?


texts: How do I properly paint a wood floor made of plywood?

texts:
I have built a yurt platform, which is basically a deck with 1 1/8" tongue-and-groove plywood as the decking. Usually that stuff is used as a subfloor, but in this case it's the floor itself. Call it rustic.

I bought this deck (and yurt!) standing at another location, disassembled, moved it to my location, and rebuilt it. The previous owners had painted the floor after assembling the yurt, so the paint doesn't go all the way to the edges. There are some rough spots from damage over the years. And some of the panels suffered in the weather while they were in storage. (I'm a slow builder!)

(click through for a full-sized image)

I would like to repaint it before I erect the yurt. I was thinking of renting a floor sander (the spinning kind) and taking a pass over the floor, and then putting on a few fresh coats of paint.

Most of the online information about painting floors is either for fancy indoor floors, or for outdoor floors exposed to weather. This will be protected from the weather once the yurt goes up, and our expectations are simple.

How should I attack this problem?

(Speed is an issue, we want this done fast!)


texts:
My grandmother has moved into a new house, and the aerial connection for her tv is not working. Are there any troubleshooting methods I can use to check and perhaps fix it before calling in a contractor to do it?

Right now we are getting no signal at all through the connection. Also, in our area there is no analogue tv signal, only digital. We are in Australia if that makes any difference.

Thanks!


texts: 50 amp breaker for Range on a 60 amp sub panel

texts: I have s 60 amp sub panel that powers only 3 20 amp circuits. Can I add a 50 amp breaker for my range?


texts: Can I use the Simpson Strong Tie EB-TY product with ChoiceDek?

texts:
I want to use the Simpson Strong Tie EB-TY hidden deck fasteners with my ChoiceDek decking. The decking is 1 inch thick and has slots in both edges. I am looking at the EBTYLC product in particular which is for 1 inch thick decking with 1/4 inch spacing which is what my ChoiceDek literature recommends.

Can I use these 2 products together? Anyone have any first hand experience or could recommend another hidden fastener to be used with ChoiceDek?

EB-TY product information (PDF)


texts: Gas fireplace pilot light goes out when fire turns off

texts:
I have a Heat and Glo propane fireplace with a constant pilot light. I had to clean the orifice etc. and have a nice blue flame on the thermopile and thermocouple. When the fire turns itself off with the timer switch it makes the pilot light 'pop' off at the same time, resulting in having to relight the pilot every time the fireplace is turned off.
Any ideas?


texts: How can I attach security bars over EIFS stucco?

texts:
I would like to securely attach window security bars to the outside of my new house but it appears to have this fake facade. Its a row home (e.g. townhouse) in Baltimore City and the front is brick (which I understand how to to work with) but based on the edges around a pipe coming through the back exterior, it appears to be a 1/4" metal mesh with stucco over it.

I drill through the area in the top right of the image and it quickly goes through the first layer, then drops to the second layer, and quickly goes through that. I can't find anything solid within 2.5 inches. I tried using a magnetic stud finder and that did work either.

The best think I can think of is use some of those heavy duty drywall anchors. Any other suggestions?


texts:
I went into home depot to get an extension cord that was 5 foot 14 gauge. I couldn't find anything that small in that gauge and I asked the employee for his recommendation. He told me to just make my own and he proceeded to cut me 5 feet of 12 gauge wire and hands me a female and Male plug.

I've wired outlets and Ethernet before so I'm not too worried about it I just want to confirm some things before I do it so I don't blow the house up.

Green is ground,
Black is hot,
White is neutral.

Black goes to the gold contact and white to the silver contact. Green meeting green. Is this correct?


texts: Are there hinges that will accommodate 1.5 in thick cabinet doors? If so, would they solve the issue discussed below?

texts: I'm adding a frame around my kitchen cabinet doors, using lengths of oak that are 3/4" thick x 2 1/2" wide.  The 3/4" thick frame makes the cabinet doors 1 1/2" thick, and when I reattached the hinged doors to the cabinets I realized this was not going to be so easy as I was going to have some trouble getting the doors to open 90°.  Is it possible to fix this without adjusting the spacing between doors?  Maybe using a special type of hinge?


texts:
I plan on using a 400 amp meter base combo with a 200 amp QNR breaker for a 200 amp sub panel, a 100 amp QP breaker for a sub panel, a 70 amp QP breaker for a sub panel and a 20 amp AFCI/GFCI breaker for an outlet mounted on the meter rack. Are there any issues with this setup?

For clarification; I want to use a 200A breaker for main house panel.
100A breaker for guest house panel. 70A for well house/pool equipment panel and 20A for outside outlet. (can the 200A and 100A breakers feed (2) separate panels in the same dwelling?)

The combo panel is Siemens and comes with (1) 200A breaker that feeds the installed bus (which has feed through lugs). It also has a provision for another 200A breaker.

Question: Is there a requirement for the bus on this type of panel to have a dedicated breaker -OR- can the feed through lugs be used directly from the meter side to power the bus (as shown in the picture), then the breakers on the bus (100, 70, 20) used as disconnects for the respective panels/outlet? Can a breaker be used as a disconnect?

The reason I would not want to power the bus with a dedicated breaker is that in the event the VFD needs to cut power to the panels, they could still leave the well house powered and have use of the water.


texts: How to fix double pocket doors so they stays in the center when closed?

texts:
I have a double pocket door installed that closes together. It is installed by connecting both tracks together. Now each door can freely go from its wall to 2x to the other side.

In hindsight, I should have ordered the Johnson 1555 CONVERGING
DOOR KIT.

It is too late now. In my situation, if the 2 doors are closed and locked. I can still shift both doors to the side freely. They just become a 2x sliding door. So the lock is useless.

What is the best alternative to fix the doors/track so they meet in the center and allow me to lock them using pocket door lock?


texts: is it OK to lay an engineered wood floor that is 27' long without putting a T-joint in the middle to avoid buckling?

texts: I am installing an engineered wood floor (bamboo).  My LR/DR is 27' long.  The installer said I ned to put in a T-joint transition between the LR and DR, at the 18' mark, to avoid buckling.  I am concerned about a bump in the middle of the floor, and my wife says no way.  Do I need to do this? I am installing the floor parallel to the long side of the room.


texts: Dropped my ring in a shower drainage. How do I get it back?

texts: Unlike sink in a washing bin, I don't have access to the U shape part of the pipe and it's not visible. What is the recommended way to get the ring? The ring is quite heavy and not magnetic; I'm have doubts that wet vacuum can do it.


texts: Can I put one brand of paint over a different brand of paint?

texts: I painted wood with Valspar satin finish paint, but I don't like the texture because it is rough. I was wondering if I can paint over it with a second coat of a different brand, colour matched and the same finish?


texts: How do I add an outlet to the end of a circuit that terminates with a recessed light fixture?

texts:
I have a closet with a light switch and a recessed light. I want to add an outlet to the ceiling of the closet. I have really good attic access to the recessed light, so actually placing the receptacle up there will be very easy.

The light is attached to a switch inside the closet. Just one black wire goes into it and one white wire comes out.

I'm wondering if I can somehow insert the outlet into this wiring configuration without it turning off when the light switch is off. I'm afraid it might not be possible.

If that isn't possible, would I be able to pull electricity off the source that runs into the light switch receptacle? Ideas on how I would configure the wiring?

Here is what the outlet looks like. I believe power comes from the bottom. Can I just plug another black wire into the yellow coupler with the blacks and another white into the other yellow coupler with the whites and the ground to the ground coupler and then just run my outlet off that?


texts: Rubber electrical tape safe under code for attics?

texts: I'm buying a house.  The attic had a wire with frayed outer insulation. I negotiated repair of the cable.  The seller has responded that the repairperson wrapped the fray with rubber electrical tape (I presume 3M tempex or a similar product).  It has a continuous max temperature rating of 190 degrees farenheit. Attic temperatures here (Phoenix) reach the 180s during the summer.  I have questionable faith in this repair.  Is there anything in The National Electric Code that says this repair is improper?


texts: Controlling two fixtures on same circuit independently

texts:
I currently have an existing loud bathroom and a ceiling light on he same circuit. The wiring goes from the switch to the ceiling box and then to the fan. Both of these are controlled by the same switch. The fan is quite loud and not necessary much of the time when the bathroom is being used. I was wondering if there are any remote controlled type switches that could be used to indepentandaly control the fan and the light. I understand that for the fan to be turned on it will be neccesary to also have the light on. I really just want a way to have the light on without having to have the fan running. I don't mind adding another switch to the box, however, I don't want to rip out the walls/ceiling to run another wire from the switch to the fan.

I know there are remote controlled switches to control ceiling fans and ceiling-fan light kits, like the Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Dual Digital Dimmer / Fan Control. If there was space in the ceiling lamp, maybe something like this could work?


texts: Identify this old E27 5W 230V short lightbulb

texts:
I've recently discovered (under a ceiling that I took off) and old wall-mounted lamp. It has a curious lightbulb which I failed to identify so far. The lightbulb works right now (gives a beautiful "retro" glow), but should it ever die, I'd like to know if there's an option for a replacement. The issue is that the bulb is very short - around 15 mm - to fit the small housing of the lamp.
The lightbulb is 5W, has an E27 thread. Location is Netherlands (230 V).
I would appreciate help with identifying this lightbulb - or information on similar bulb types that would fit the housing - so that I can search for replacement options.


texts: Ceiling light turns on when outlet draws power, followed by power loss

texts:
I am way out of my depth here. I just moved into a new townhouse and set up my home office in the guest bedroom. When I first tried to turn on my desktop (850w power supply) the computer would initially turn on and then loose power, I also noticed the lone ceiling light (a 3 bulb light fixture on a dimmer) would also turn on.  I went and tried my computer elsewhere in the house where it works flawlessly. All plugs in this bedroom produce the same result. I now notice that the same ceiling light glows, as if on the lowest dimmer setting, when I have my power strip plugged into the bed room wall (2 monitors a usb hub and a desk lamp) and the monitors are on. In addition when I am drawing power form the wall with the monitors on and I then go to turn on the ceiling light the whole thing browns out until I turn the light down low or off.
Any idea what I'm dealing with here? I know I need to contact my landlord but I don't even know what to tell him.


texts: How to fix the wire connections on three-way switches?

texts: I've replaced the two three-way switches of a hall light and now the second switch has to be in the on position in order for the first switch to turn the light on or off.  The hot source is in the first box and connected to the black screw.  The wire with continuity in the second box is connected to the black screw. What have I done wrong and how do I fix it?


texts: How can I winterize windows with original trim from 1885 without ruining them?

texts:
I have very nice wood trim and would rather not use the double sided tape on them. I have tried in the past on one window and it took some of the trim off with it.  I really don't want to ruin the trim but would also like to put plastic on it.  The windows need to be replaced eventually but my cash flow right now it's not possible.  I know that would help because the windows are the original from when the house was built in 1885.

Is there another way to winterize windows that will not ruin my trim?  I can't put plastic on the outside, its all metal, and I have tried to put it on the inside of the trim of the window instead of around the window.  I have tried everything I can possible think of to try and NOT ruin this beautiful trim. Are there any suggestions for me that wont break the bank?


texts: Best way to fix gate post over foundation that extends

texts:
1930s brick house.
Foundation at ground level extends 8 inches out.
Want to put a 3.5 x 3.5 post right next to the wall and have these ideas(post will have gate latch):

Build a form next to wall that extends over edge of foundation.  Think upside L.  Cons: lots of concrete. Pros: ?

Affix anchor on foundation, affix post to anchor.  Cons: weak?  Rust?  Pros: probably best looking

Affix post directly to wall.  Cons: weaken wall?  Pros: ?

?

I'm thinking this community will go with 2, but I'd like to hear your thoughts on whatever you think would be the best way.


texts: Should tile floors be cleaned with vinegar only? Is the advice against using other solutions a myth?

texts:
After we had ceramic tile installed at our house, the company said we should just clean with vinegar and water mixture. However, I haven't been able to find anywhere online that says that using Pine-Sol or other cleaning solutions (like Swiffer sprayer thing) damages the tile.

In fact, this is what the company says.

  Recommended “To Do’s”

  • Clean your new Flooring with a damp mop once a week or more,
  depending on the amount of traffic. Heavy traffic areas should be
  mopped more often than once a week.

  • Use an all-purpose, non-oil based household or commercial cleaner.
  Ensure that the cleaner is compatible with the grout cleaner
  recommendations in the maintenance and protection section. You can
  also use a cleaning solution of one cup of white vinegar to two
  gallons of tap water.

  • Cleaning spills off of Porcelain & Ceramic Flooring is generally
  easier than other types of flooring. The entire area should be cleaned
  and scrubbed with a cleansing solution using a cotton mop, cloth,
  sponge or non-metallic brush. The entire area should then be rinsed
  with clean water to remove any residue left on the Flooring from the
  cleaning solution.

  • Sweep or vacuum your tile Empire Flooring prior to mopping to remove
  any dust or debris.

  Recommended “Not To Do”

  •    Use a detergent or soap because it may dull the surface and
  potentially promote the growth of mildew.

  Other Care Instructions

  • Routine cleaners used on your Porcelain & Ceramic Flooring should
  never contain acids or ammonia because they can discolor the grout
  and/or damage the grout and the glazed surface of the Flooring.

  • You should allow your new Ceramic Flooring and grout to set and dry
  for at least 72 hours after installation before damp mopping it.

Of course, the cleaning agents claim they're safe on wood and tile (we
have both), but at the same time I don't want to damage the new tile.
Anyone with tile experience actually know if the claim that using anything but vinegar and water is bogus?

Update: Fixed question and title to better reflect original intent of the question.


texts:
My tenants have left behind some pink/white plaster boards in my rental property.
I've just noticed there might be asbestos in it as there are white strands in the plaster.
I've double bagged the boards now.
Also, the tenants were plasterers but seemingly not the best as the company they worked for went bust. So maybe they might have not been very knowledgeable on hazardous materials.
I've got a photo and one zoomed in on the strands (not the best quality )


texts: Entrance door warped when it’s warm outside

texts:
The entrance door to my apartment warps when temperatures rise. When outside temperatures are below 15–20°C, this effect is hardly noticeable, but in summer (I would say above 25°C) there is a noticeable “bend” in the door, the lateral view of which is best described as:

(|

The deformation is such that it takes a lot of force to make the latch make contact with the strike plate. To unlock the door from outside, I need to pull at the knob to reduce friction between the latch and the strike plate.

The door appears to be a massive wooden door from the early 1970s. I’ve painted the inside white some ten years ago.

The hinges are simple barrel hinges. The don’t seem to have any lock mechanism, thus I would assume the door could simply be lifted off the hinges. From my point of view, that makes it unlikely that the door is simply expanding in the heat and bending because it is wedged in between the two hinges and has nowhere to go—rather, I’d expect uniform thermal expansion to lift the door a bit off the top hinge.

The door separates the hallway of my apartment (which is neither heated nor air-conditioned) from an open gallery (meaning the outside of the door is exposed to outdoors temperatures).

I’ve thought of attaching an angle iron (similar to this one) to the door—in winter, when the door is straight—hoping that will prevent it from warping next summer. Given the shape of the door, I’d have to go for 20×20mm.

Will this successfully prevent the warp? Any other suggestions?

Image of the door below.


texts: Adding sidelights to a front entrance that does not have them

texts:
I am trying to determine the cost, effort and complexity of adding sidelights to an entrance way that currently does not have them.

Would the entire front door way need to be re-framed, header, king/jack stud combination.  Or do sidelights sit on the sides of the king/jack stud combination and so less re-framing is required.

[king][jack][Sidelight][       Door      ][Sidelight][jack][king]

OR

[Sidelight][king][jack][       Door      ][jack][king][sidelight]


texts: How to wire in my replacement fluorescent light fixture?

texts:
The electrician installed a new wall switch in the kitchen, so that when I replace the fluorescent light, it can be turned on and off at the wall switch.

I am ready to install the new light.

In the ceiling, there is a bare copper wire that I am assuming is the ground and will be wired to a screw on the light fixture. There is a white wire - neutral, and a black wire- hot, and I know to wire white to white and black to black.

However, there is a second white wire and a second black wire, and they are wired together with a cap on them, and I am not sure how to connect those.

Also in the ceiling is an old two-pronged plug where you could plug something in, although I am not sure what you would ever plug in there.  But perhaps the second black and white wires are for that plug, and the electrician just capped them together temporarily because they come from the same outlet.

So do I just connect all three whites and all three blacks together?


texts: In my living room is a ceiling light controlled by 3 switches within the living room. Two switches are 3-way and one switch is a 4-way. I would like to completely eliminate one of the 3-ways from the circuit. I would also like to use the existing 4-way as a 3-way if that is possible unless replacing it with a 3-way switch is recommended. The goal is to utilize two 3-way switches for the ceiling light. Regarding the 3-way switch that I want to eliminate, I will keep it intact and use it for the fireplace. Can I keep power to that switch in that gang box?  That is another project.


texts: Can I replace a section of copper pipe with flexiable PVC?

texts: The valve at the end of the supply line for my ice maker started leaking from that top.  In trying to remove the valve, I twisted the copper supply line.  The section of pipe is 6 inches, and the twist is right above a 90 degree elbow.  I have a replacement valve, but I'm wondering if it would be okay to cut the elbow off and run a piece of flexible PVC from the copper line to the new valve using a compression fitting to join them. Are there any issues with this I'm not seeing?


texts:
Forgive me for my poor paint skill:

I have this small room, one door, no windows, one skylight. I'm planning to buy a portable air conditioner and put the hot air pipe near the lower area of the skylight, pressed against the mosquito net. Note that air will still be able to pass through all the net, not only the part near the pipe.

Room is about 3x3m width, 2.5m height. Skylight is about 1x1m width, 2m height.

The plan is that hot air should be able to get outside because it leaves the pipe with a certain speed and also hot air should go up because that's what hot air does.

During the day, when the air conditioner will be on, all windows in the rest of the house will be closed, so air should have no reasons to enter from the skylight. But even if they were open, 90% of the time air flows from windows to the skylight.

My doubts are:

Will hot air really go out?
In the "all windows are closed"
case, if air goes out, it must also get in somewhere... the rest of
the house is like six times the size of the room and in the kitchen
(the furthest room) there are two small holes in the wall (10cm
radius) for security reason (in case of gas leaks).

EDIT:
The air conditioner that I'm looking at doesn't have a second input pipe, so I guess it will pull air directly from the room, and the room will pull it from the skylight. Now... It might create an air flow like the one in the updated picture where most of the hot air still get's out, or just suck back the hot air inside... What's the most probable outcome? Even if I find one with the input pipe, it will be useless if I can't put them both outside AND far from each other right? If so, I guess I'm out of luck...