texts: 390 MHz Garage Door Opener and Raspberry Pi

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I have a lovely Genie garage door opener (I couldn't find a model number but it looks like this) that I've been wanting to upgrade for a while. I'd like to open it with an RF transmitter attached to a Raspberry Pi, as I'm uncomfortable wiring the Pi directly into the opener as some tutorials suggest.

I have been using a Genie GT90-1 remote to open the garage for years, and it seems as though it should be simple to use LIRC with an RF transceiver on the right frequency. This is where I've run into trouble, because while the opener and remote appear to operate on the 390 MHz frequency (reference one and two) I am having trouble finding any sort of 390 MHz transmitter/receiver that will connect properly to the Pi, most devices operating at 390 MHz appear to be Genie replacement remotes.

Is there any way I can make this project work, or is it DOA? The main obstacle seems to be finding a transmitter and receiver. Can I use something of lower/higher frequency, or some other alternative?

Thanks


texts: what is max distance between posts using 2x12x20 foot beams for a pergola

texts: What is the max distance to span between six by six posts using two by twelve by twenty foot beams for a pergola.


texts: How to safely dig a 12 inch diameter hole with an 8 inch auger

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I need to dig a 12 inch diameter hole for some 4x4 fence posts that I'm digging but I only have access to an 8-inch power auger. My experience drilling holes in wood tells me that if I try to drill a hole next to an existing hole my bit will slip and go all over the place in an unsafe way. My question here is if I only have access to an 8-inch auger whats my safest bet at getting a 12 inch wide hole?

What I was thinking was to go slow and dig three holes where the center of each hole is 4 inches apart from each other until I get to the depth that I need. Something like a venn diagram with 3 circles. Working my way down into the ground maybe 6 inches at a time. This sounds pretty tedious since I have many holes to dig so Anyone have any better ideas?

My question stems from this video: https://youtu.be/aQ24ykIBVOM?t=2m54s


texts: What could be a reason for RCCB triggering?

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I have RCCB/RCD with four circuit breakers at the entrance of my aparment (I am actually not quite sure how it is called in english, so here is RCCD and CB is ABB s231r with different max amps)

Recently, I've been setting up electrical socket in the kitchen, so I turned off cb, that handling kitchen line and installed socket. During this process from time to time I've been double checking on line voltage (with N and with PE) with multimeter (just in case) and couple of times during this process my RCCB triggered. What can cause this behaviour? As I know, RCCB only triggers when there are differential current in the circuit, so if every properly working circuit have some small amount of differential current by design, if I disable one of the lines with CB this differential current should decrease?


texts: Using dirt to grade away from foundation. Good idea or not?

texts:
A reputable/recommended house inspector suggested that we can just pile up dirt to create a grade that will prevent water from collecting around our foundation.  We have a crawl space so the dirt will basically be against the outer wall of the crawlspace. He suggested putting dirt against this outer wall.

We live in Los Angeles so we don't get that much rain.

My concern that if the dirt is against the wall, won't this just trap the moisture and keep the wall wet?

Is his advice sound or should I look for alternate solutions?


texts: Why doesn't my motion sensor light work?

texts: I want to install a simple motion sensor (Lutron Maestro MS-OPS2) on a single pole switch in my garage. When I installed it the light would not turn off. The instructions (PDF) that come with the motion sensor say this is a result of the ground not being connected (PDF). I double checked and the sensor was connected to the ground wire (bare copper wire) coming into the box. Does this mean that my ground wire is not connected to anything on the other end? How can I ground this switch so that I can get my motion sensor to work properly?


texts: Do I need to upgrade wiring to replace a 50A breaker with a 60A breaker for a new hot tub?

texts:
Our 23 year old hot tub finally gave out so we are having a new one delivered but were told it needed a 60 amp breaker. When checking the panel I saw that the old tub used a 50 amp breaker. How do I determine if the wiring is safe to use with a 60 amp breaker? The current wire used is very big but I want to be sure.

The length needed for the run is 100'; 75' from the breaker box to a disconnect on the deck and then another 25' from the disconnect box/switch to the tub. The current wire is marked "Essex 8-SG non metallic sheathed cable Type NM-B 600 volt E-10816-K (UL)".


texts: How do I connect the ground wires to the new light fixture?

texts: Took out old fluorescent fixture and putting in new LED one. There are 2 switches for this fixture. Not sure what’s going on with the 3 ground wires. I’m not an electrician so dumb it down please.


texts: So I have a leaking toilet and it's leaked through the ceiling drywall... is that typically caused by a leaking seal, or is it the toilet itself?  It's been noticed today after we had a toilet overflow (thanks to my children :-).  Where do I start the  investigation, pull off the drywall and look there first?


texts: Changed an old Led light to pendant and it keeps shorting

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I recently just replaced an old LED ceiling light with a simple pendant and as soon as I switch it on it shorts.

I've made sure that I kept everything in place but as soon as I switch it on, POP it trips.

Pictures are attached http://imgur.com/a/UWghz, any help would be great.


texts: Why is there continuity between hot and neutral in the unmodified part of my circuit?

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Long story. I'll try to make it short:
Goal: Replace cooktop exhaust fan/light
I've done this before. Should be no big deal... Removed old fan/light. Started to install new fan/light. Connected cable - armored (BX?). To make sure I have the grounding right, I checked continuity from metal case of fan/light to armor and to neutral. All good. But then checked to hot and that also showed continuity, not good.
I figured the problem was the old (~65 years old) cable with insulation falling off the wires. Went to a big orange store to get something to cut the armor, new bushings, etc. Cut off some of the armor (fortunately this cable had some length to spare) to get some good wire - same problem! Figured it must be down the line. Next fixture is overhead light. Removed fixture to get to the wires. Disconnected the cable going to the fan/light (that's all good) and problem is coming from cable from the switch box.
Opened up the switch box and found a big mess. Two switches, one cable coming in, one cable (3 wires black hot/red switched hot/white neutral) to overhead light and fan/light, one cable for second switch light fixture and one cable going on to at least two rooms of the house. Hot wire looped around a screw and then one to another screw instead of using a pigtail. At least one wire around a screw the wrong direction. Etc. Cleaned it up, marking wires as I went with colored tape (I'm learning) since all the old wires are shades of gray.
Isolated the problem to the ongoing cable. Capped the two wires of that cable.
Put overhead light and fan/light back together - all worked. Having a bit of trouble getting the switch box (but with the bad cable wires capped) back together, but I'm sure I can get that done.
The question: Since everything was working when I turned off power to this circuit to start this "little" project, and I found the problem (hot shorted to neutral in a cable far from where I was working), any idea this would happen? And any idea how to find the source of the problem, or is it just the usual "keep taking things apart until you find the problem"?
Resolution: Ed Beal and Harper's comments were 100% correct. Unplugged everything and the phantom short went away. The interesting thing though is that some of the devices (the kitchen LED light fixture and the new kitchen fan/LED light fixture that started this journey) did not cause a phantom short. In fact, leaving those lights on let me have an easy way to check (yell upstairs after restoring power "did the kitchen lights go on?"). So this is not an absolute "must turn off/unplug everything". But oh what a mess...turns out downstairs refrigerator & freezer on the same circuit and I hadn't realized it. Freezer definitely OK, refrigerator almost certainly lost some stuff. Ugh. Live 'n learn.


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I'm reworking a shed to make a cold room for storing seedlings in spring.  Part of this is wraping the building with strawbales.  I want to increase the overhang to 3 feet beyond the bales.

For this purpose, I've sistered 2x6 to the existing trusses, going from the peak to 4 feet beyond the wall.  These are not notched.  Each 2x6 is secured with 12 #10 3 inch ceramic coated deck screws.

Purlins (steel roof) are 2x4's on edge, with blocking at the outer edge, and where they meet.  I figure the blocking will keep the purlin from rolling.  Purlins are secured with the same 3" screws at the bottom of a 2" hole. (So only 1.5" of the 2x4 is held by the screw.)

Slope of the roof is 18 degrees.

We get moderate snow.  In 20 years the heaviest snow I've seen on the main house roof is 2 feet of light fluff -- equivalent to about 3 inches water, so about 15-20 lbs per square foot.  Being a metal roof, snow tends to slide off of it readily.

Walking around on the frame that I've done so far doesn't feel bouncy.

I'm not worried about snow load, but the thought just occurred to me, that this is a lot of roof to catch the wind.  The area is fairly sheltered.  My wind chime nearby complains of boredom.

Recommendations?

(We are in a rural county, and code does not apply to utility buildings.  Recommended practices are fine.)


texts: 2 days ago my wife and i noticed an electricity problem in our house our dryer would run but not get hot and our hot water heater just wouldn't make hot water, and the toasters coils wouldnt even get red hot it would just make the bread warm. half the houses electrical sockets were and 60-95v. i checked all the gfi outlets one was faulty so i replaced that. i checked the breaker box half of the 120s were reading the same 60-95. the 220s were reading 112-120. the two main legs read 120v on the top leg and 112-114v on the bottom leg. i had the poco come out and check the outside box and everything on there end seemed fine they said.  im in no way an electrician i didnt even know what a leg was before today any advice would be much appreciated.


texts: How do I loosen my bathroom stopper pivot nut

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I'm trying to remove my bathroom sink stopper so that I can clean out the drain.

I found these instructions for doing so but they talk about a pivot nut that can be loosened. Under my sink, in the place where a pivot nut is shown in the diagram on that link mine has this round fitting with grippy edges. I tried to use a needle nose pliers on it but it just slides and won't grip and I can't get leverage to turn it and loosen it.

What is the correct tool for loosening this fitting? Sorry I don't know much about hardware or plumbing so I don't know the proper term for the round fitting.


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I'm trying to affix a ground-anchor to my garage floor (for chaining things to.

It was supplied with Rawl bolts and the instructions stated to drill a 16mm hole into the concrete and then tap the bolt into the hole.

I followed the instructions to the letter (1 minor deviation described later)

The Rawl bolt is like this:

Here's where the trouble comes in - I didn't "tap" the bolt into the hole - I gave it a good, solid hammering - I've used these things before and widened the hole to allow that bolt to go in easier - but then found that it didn't hold firmly enough when tightened and whatever it was fell down... So this time I decided that I'd make it a snug fit and ended up giving it a good bashing to get it in - what I didn't realise was that it wasn't the diameter of the hole that was the problem, but rather the build up of concrete dust that I'd left in the hole after drilling.

Here's the situation:

The real problem is that there was concrete dust sitting in the bottom of the hole - by hammering the bolt holder into the hole to try and get it flush with the garage floor - 2 things have happened:

1) The cone shaped bit at the bottom has been forced up in the bolt holder - forcing the leaves outwards (as is it's purpos) and jamming the holder into the hole in the concrete. The standard advice on this is to tap the conical piece down again  - but I don't think this is possible as it's got compacted concrete dust under it.

2) The threaded hole in the conical piece is full of concrete dust, so I can't screw the bolt into it - it goes in about 1.5 turns, then jams up on concrete dust - I can see this from the threads on the bolt when I remove it.

Does anybody have any suggestions on how to:

a) Suck the concrete dust out of the hole?

b) Get the bolt holder out of the hole altogether so that I can start afresh?


texts: Extra wires and jacks on my chandelier - where do they go?

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Can someone help me understand why my chandelier has a positive, negative and ground wire, then something I've never seen: 2 sets of blue and white wires and 2 jack holes inside connection pad? I'm assuming they go inside the jacks for over heating but I'm not an electrician.

Thanks in advance,
Francesco


texts: How to open bathroom light cover to replace bulb?

texts: I cannot open the cover. I tried to twist it anti clock-wise, or clock-wise, or pull down. No success. Can anyone help? Thanks.


texts: How can I get my shower head to increase water pressure?

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My mom has very thick hair and typical low flow shower heads take a very long time to rinse her hair.  I decided that I would look online for some high flow shower heads and can't seem to find anything with a flow of more than 2.5GPM.

I've seen some where people have commented that they were able to remove a flow restrictor to improve flow, but no one states what the new flow rate would be.

While I would prefer to find a shower head that has a high flow without modification, I would be amenable to one that the restrictor can be removed but would still want to know what the flow rate is once modified.  Can anyone provide direction?


texts: What are the small white ants in my apartment and how do I get rid of them?

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I have an ant problem in my apartment.  I have had several pest control professionals visit and spray but the ants keep reappearing.  They could not identify the type of ants as they are very small and white.  The ants do not appear to be going after food, grease or sugar.

How can I determine what kind of ant I have and how I can redirect them not to come into my living space?


texts: I want to buy a WiFi wall switch for my lights outside to turn on without me but my house has no ground and the WiFi wall switch requires one and I noticed this can somebody explain the wiring?


texts: What conduit should I install underground that meets code?

texts: I want to run a conduit under my front yard about 20 feet. I will be trenching to 18 inches deep, but was curious what the easiest conduit is to install that meets code? PVC? EMT? Liquidtight?


texts:
I picked up a used 10kva (45a) Generac unit and want to get it connected thru the transfer switch. Just looking for some feedback on how to get it connected. I was going to use 1" schedule 40 indoors for runs of the 6-3 NM-B (about 75' total) and four 14 ga THHN control wires in a separate 1/2" schedule 40, switching to schedule 80 before it goes outdoors. Then have a type LB on the exterior, then run the control wires directly to the generator and have the 6-3 going to a disconnect box. After the disconnect I was going to use either more schedule 80 or non-metallic flexible conduit with watertight connectors to the generator. As you can see, everything is above ground.
So my questions are:

Use schedule 80 to the generator or the flex?
Is NM-B OK in the conduit above ground?
Where should the disconnect go?
I had planned to bring the electric outside about 18" to the right of the gas going into the house. Is that OK to be behind the gas line attached to the brick?


texts: Is 2/0 wire required for a 200A panel with a 150A nominal load?

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Had a fire in one room (NZ Lockwood home) and renovated the entire interior due to smoke damage. Changed my main panel (150 amp) to a 200 amp and balanced the load to all breakers. No addition to load (@ 150).

Had a 1/0 feed to 150 amp main. The master electrician whom I've hired to sign off on the work says the NEC Code calls for a 2/0 for 200 amp main, but the load remains the same, so I disagree. The local power authority agrees with me do I hire another ME?


texts: Can I use construction adhesive for backsplash tiles

texts: I have s plaster wall with these plastic backspashes from the 70s that are adhered to the wall in such a way that I can’t easily pry them off without pulling the plaster off or really making a mess of things ... I’m contemplating putting up subway tile, and I’m wondering if I can just use construction adhesive and stick the tiles right on the existing plastic pieces ... I would then grout of course any ideas ?


texts: How often should I change the oil in my lawn mower

texts: I have just purchased a new lawn mower and am wondering about the maintenance.  I'm not very good at mechanical maintenance and without a small engine shop in my local home town I'm wondering what I can get away with.  The owners manual says to change the oil after the first five hours of use, but is this really required?  Will my new lawn mower stop operating of I don't do this first 5 hour oil change?


texts:
I have a 2 story house. The wall in question is in the middle of the basement. There is an old field stone wall that runs parallel to the ceiling joist (3x8). Directly above the stone is a flat board (7 1/2x2) followed by the joist, then floorboard. The second floor wall is directly above the basement joist. The 1st floor wall is offset 4" and not directly above the beam. Attic is a crawl space with no walls.

My pictures won't upload. My question is can I knock the stone wall out? If it is load bearing, how can I support it while I remove the wall since it runs parallel? I will try to get photos uploaded


texts: Installing a permeate pump on a manifold-style RO system

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I've got a Whirlpool WHER25 RO system. Recently I added a hot water dispenser to our kitchen sink as well and would like to route the RO product to it instead of running it off of unfiltered water. The hot water dispenser requires 30psi to operate properly. My RO product water is 42psi when the tank is full, but the pressure drops rapidly into the 20s when the tap is turned on. Currently the stock system looks like this:

To ensure I get the necessary pressure to the hot water dispenser, I'd like to install a permeate pump to bring up the tank pressure close to the 68psi going into the system. I've found out that's difficult with a WHER25 since it is a manifold system and I can't add tees willy nilly anywhere I'd like. I'd also still like to be able to use the post-filter as intended - when the product water is dispensed and not before going into the tank. This limits my options since most people with manifold systems relocate the tank to after the post filter.

I think I've come up with a solution using another automatic shutoff valve in a different place in the system. Does this look like it will work or am I going to end up breaking something? Not sure if I'm correct, but I think this should only allow water out of the tank when there's a significant drop in pressure on the product out line, like when the tap is opened or the hot water tank is filling.

Additionally, does anyone know where to get an automatic shutoff valve with 3/8" push fit or JACO connections for both the high and low side or am I going to be stuck with a bunch of reducers? The only one I can find is the Payne PWS-792Q, but I can't find a distributor offering it. If I am stuck with reducers will they ultimately end up limiting my pressure or throughput?


texts: Is there a reason the hot wire is connected to the neutral bar and the white to the breaker?

texts: The black wire is connected to the neutral bar and the white wire is connected to the breaker. Should it be this way for any reason?


texts:
Just wondering if anyone had any ideas on this?

The other day, I put the central heating on for the first time in about 6 months. The radiators did not get hot and within a few minutes the boiler started making a very high pitched noise and then the DHW feed pipe ruptured at a soldered joint and started spraying water. Upon further investigation the copper pipe leading to the DHW turbine/flow sensor appears to have some type of metal pin piercing the pipe from which water is also leaking.

I have had several plumbers look at it and they will be replacing the failed components but none of them can explain what the pin is, where it has come from or what the underlying cause of the failure is. They all say they've never seen anything like this before.

Can anyone identify this pin, why it was sticking out of the pipe and what may have caused this failure? I have attached images that might help.

The boiler is a Worcestershire-Bosch 24Si II

Many thanks for your help


texts: We have been given an orange clad 10-3 wire ( like for a dryer ) and were told it is fine to run it from the house panel to the garage panel for a few plugs , however when we looked at the Home Depot the 10-3 wire for that purpose is a black clad 10-3 ....are we safe to use the orange clad 10-3 wire ? ( it will be in conduit )


texts:
Are drywall screws suitable for attaching a 3/4" tongue-and-groove plywood subfloor?

In this case, joists are 16" O.C. and no glue will be used.


texts:
I have a home garage gym that I'm looking to improve on. I'd like to build a pullup rig in my backyard and I plan on using 6x6's to do it. My plan is to have two 6x6x10's and two 6x6x12's. The tens will go on the outside of the rig, and the 12's will be on the inside.

My intent is to have two normal pullup bars on the outside of the rig and then have the inside of the rig tall enough to build both a salmon ladder and hang gymnastics rings on it for muscle ups.

I'd like to sink the posts as shallow as possible (for maximum height) while still ensuring that it's sturdy enough to use, but have no idea how deep this is and I can't find any references that deal with 6x6's.

I expect them to be around 5ft apart from one another in a straight line, not a box.

How deep should I sink the poles and what are the tradeoffs? I definitely plan on cementing them in the ground.

Thanks!


texts: Blown fuse from a dehumidifier that has been working for years

texts: I have a dehumidifier working 24/7 for about six months of the year.  I've never moved it from the one outlet.  Today the fuse keeps blowing.  Nothing new is plugged in: no change whatsoever.  I plug the dehumidifier in an other outlet, and all is well. Can someone explain what has happened?


texts: What is the best way to install speakers to interior/exterior of house?

texts:
I want to install 4 interior speakers and one exterior speaker, as shown on the diagram below. (S indicates speaker, S (?) indicates 2 possible locations). There is dry wall between the rooms and access to the attic, but not under the floor due to fitted carpet. I want to do this while making the least possible mess/holes in walls etc. as it has just been newly decorated.

Any tips on the best way to route the wires etc? All wires would need to come out in the same room as speaker 3 where they'll be plugged into the sound system. I think the outside one could be the most challenging as it would require a very long ladder or leaning out the window (which opens to the right in that room. I haven't really done anything like this before. For the interior speakers I'm debating between in cabinets mounted on the wall or circular ones set into the ceiling. At the moment I'm leaning towards cabinets.

Any advice at all on the best way to go about this?


texts: Can I get away with putting a 14W bulb into a 13W lamp?

texts:
While browsing the website of a well-known Swedish furniture retailer, I found a clamp-on desk lamp I liked, which has a 13W power rating. To accompany this lamp, I would like to purchase a 1500lm 14W E27 LED bulb. Is it safe to put a 14W bulb into a lamp rated at 13W?
Even though the sites I visited in researching this issue didn't recommend exceeding a lamp's rated wattage, the given examples were along the lines of "don't put a 100W bulb into a 60W lamp". Since I would only be exceeding the rating by ~8%/1W I figure I'd still be well within the manufacturer's safety margin. Am I right?
Additional info: I am not planning to use the lamp in an enclosed space or near flammable objects.
This is the lamp in question: https://www.ikea.com/ch/en/p/tertial-work-lamp-dark-grey-50355395/


texts: How can I keep a screw from slipping off a screw bit?

texts:
I'm used to having magnetic bit holders, which will attract the screw, but sometimes the screw will still slip away sideways while screwing it in.

Today I watched an episode of Adam Savage's One Day Builds on YouTube and noticed a kind of bit holder that I haven't seen before:

You can see it in action around the 12:00 mark.

What is this device called and what other options are there to keep screws from slipping?


texts: Will my raised flower bed design be sturdy enough?

texts:
I am building a 4'x 8' flower bed.  The bed is 32" tall with a floor made out of 1x4" cedar four feet across.  Soil depth is 12 inches, 32 cubic feet (8x4).  Worst case 7.481 gallons per sq foot x 8 lbs of water per gallon = 60 lbs x 32 = 1915 lbs.

The design uses corrugated steel for the sides with two 2x4s screwed to the steel--one at 12" deep on the inside to support the 1x4 flooring and another 2x4 at 24" deep (the steel is 24" deep by 8').  On the outside there is a 1x4 frame with supports on the ends and at 24" intervals. So each side has two 2x4s and two 1x4 and corrugated steel, all eight feet long.  The ends are the same with 4 foot lengths. Is this frame strong enough?


texts: Can a dedicated circuit have a junction box somewhere between the fixture and the panel?

texts:
Whoever installed the central air conditioning unit in my house correctly used a dedicated circuit, however, they cut the wire too short (there is a ~12 inch splice in the panel) and the wire was improperly run through an air return vent. I disconnected the wire from the fixture and pulled it into the house and I would like to eliminate the splice inside the panel which would mean that I would need to have a junction box in the basement and approximately 3-4 feet of additional wire from the junction box to the fixture.

Would this still be considered a dedicated circuit and is it an appropriate amend to the issue?


texts:
I used to have some (guitar) hooks which were screwed into a brick wall, but 2/3 of them have fallen out. My only guess is that (since they are all at the same vertical height) they all went into a line of mortar rather than brick? Anyway would like to put them back up, and for them to stay up this time.
I don't think the original holes are salvageable, they've become quite enlarged, and unhelpfully filled by yours truly.
My plan is to screw and silicone adhesive a wooden batten to the wall and then screw the hooks into the wood. I'm thinking sand and varnish a 18x69mm spruce batten, use 4 chunky screws and wall plugs and a healthy dose of silicone adhesive to hold the batten to the wall, and finally some small screws to hold the hooks to the batten (the holes in the hooks are small, and the wood is thin, so the screws have to be both small and short).
I just want to check that I'm not missing anything before I permanently butcher my wall, and ask whether it's okay for the screws holding the hooks to the batten to go all the way through the wood, because the screws that came with it are just slightly too long. 3 guitars would weigh about 10kg in total for reference.


texts: Need to hang 60 lb water heater on exterior stucco wall

texts:
I need to hang a 60 lb tankless water heater on the back wall of my house located in California. The house was built in the 1940s and the exterior walls are stucco.
The mounting bracket on the water heater unfortunately does not span the 16 inches I would need to get it securely into two studs. I can get it into one stud, but without making a new bracket I would have to do one side into a stud and the other directly into the stucco. I don't think this house uses wood sheathing under the stucco, so it's probably the thick type embedded in wire mesh.
Is there a reliable anchor I can use to go into the stucco that would support at least half the 60 lb weight without pulling out? Keep in mind Southern California gets earthquakes now and then.


texts: Are push-in outlet connectors with screws more reliable than other types?

texts:
I have an 18.5 cubic inch box that has three 14/2 nm cables coming in. I am putting in an Eaton AFCI/GFCI outlet but the limited space is making it hard to get back in.
I noticed that the outlet has 2 push-in connectors on the top and two on the bottom. They seem to be screw in unlike the old push in spring connectors. Anyone have experience with these to know if they are safer/reliable than your standard push in that it seems like people say to never use? If I didn't have to pig tail the two wires together with a nut it would save a ton of space so that is why I ask.
Thanks!


texts: Under kitchen sink outlet only allows two devices

texts:
It seems my under kitchen sink outlet only allows two devices at once. I have a wall outlet and I have an adaptor that converts the 2 outlets into 6 outlets.
Then, I plug in the dishwasher and insinkerator into two of the 6 outlets and they both work. Then I plug in the insinkerator and the water purifier they both work. However, when I plug in all three, the water purifier stops working.
Note the dishwasher is 3 prong, insinkerator is 3 prong and water purifier is 2 prong.
What is going on here?
Many thanks


texts: How to fill large window gap for temporary air conditioner?

texts:
I have an air conditioner that looks similar to this...

...except mine doesn't have the flaps on the sides, leaving a large open gap between the air conditioner and the window frame.  What's the best way to fill that gap?

The air conditioner gets taken down in winter, so permanent solutions are no good.

The ideal solution would:

Be easy to make
Be easy to put up/take down
Insulate well
Keep rainy weather out, and not be ruined by rain
Keep nosy cats inside

We used to shove blankets in there, but the cats got out. I also tried buying flaps similar to the image, but they failed all 5 tests.  I've heard suggestions of cutting out plywood or rigid foam, but I'm curious if there's a simpler and/or better solution.


texts: Should outdoor rug be used on wood decks?

texts:
I have wood deck.  It get's periodically treated.  The last treatment was 3-4 years ago.

Was wondering if it's alright to put an outdoor rug (8x10 ft.) on it?  Will be placing chair and outdoor gas heater on top of rug.
Located in central Iowa
Thanks,


texts: Is having all locks with the same key a bad idea?

texts:
My partner and I have recently bought a house.

I'm going to get new door lock cylinders for the front and back door. I'm not sure whether to get them keyed alike.

Is it a bad idea to get them so that they use the same key?


texts: Can R-30 insulation catch fire if placed over flex ducts? I do not have air conditioning - only heat.  Thanks, Victor


texts: Why is my Honda generator running rough, if at all?

texts:
Currently trying to diagnose the issue with my Honda Eu1000i Generator.

New spark plug
Changed oil
Changed gas
Cleaned entire carburetor

Had the engine running rough for a while and haven't gotten it back there. I can use starting fluid sprayed and it runs well until starting fluid is over.
I don't think it is getting gas, although when it was running it did run for about 30 minutes. This "fluke running" was before starting fluid applied but after the other listed items for cure.


texts: Ideas for sealing kitchen sink pvc pipe to bottom of strainer that sheared off (old)

texts:
Sink from at least the 60s, probably the late 30's. New kitchen relocation maybe in a year, but pipe seal burst at drain and when reattached new pvc nut it sheared off most of the bottom of strainer. Strainer nut is original corroded metal and will not budge. All night soak in vinegar removed the corrosion, but strainer will still not budge with any tool. There is enough thread to hold on the pvc nut, but gasket can be pulled from the top and water runs through the gap between strainer and pipe.
Not worried about aesthetics just can't afford a plumber or replacement tools to do it right (and I would probably puncture the sink anyway). I checked Habitat for a replacement over mount sink, but didn't have any yesterday.
Plumber's putty apparently won't work and maybe JB weld is worth a try, but the connection would be pvc to copper. I could close the sink, but it has a dishwasher and I believe that it needs to back wash into it, so water would come from the other direction. With a family it would be nice to still have 2 sinks though.
Looking for affordable ideas/suggestions for this jury-rig. Thank you.


texts: How can I bend skirting for a bay window?

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We have a bay window in our living room with a fast approaching deadline for the carpet being fitted. We need to bend the skirting as it won't be as pleasing to the eye if we do it in chunks and our bay is curved.

Can anyone please advise on how to do this as our joiner can't come out to help any time soon.


texts: Does this seem like the right place to tap a C-Wire from my heater?

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I need a C-wire for my thermostat but my heater only has R and W connectors (red circle).
On the schematic on the heater, up top (red arrow), looks like:
5 is 24V Gnd  (bit hard to read but i've double checked that's what it says) and
6 is 24V
I assume the 6 24V  is the same as the R connector.
So would it be safe to assume that 5 would be the equivilent of a C-Wire?

UPDATE: after some hunting I managed to locate the service manual :)
I've included a page with the circuit overview:

And have revised my though on a candidate spot to tap the C-Wire.
Based on the text in the green box and the comments, I am assuming the top right of the middle connector along the bottoms (with the green arrow) would be the best location.
Update #2:
I've now located the block diagram for the S8065 INTERMITTENT PILOT MODULES (block at the top of the picture). And from it, one can clearly see that connectors 2, 4 and 5 and joined together. I confirmed this with a continuity test and they 2, 4 and 5 and the chasis of the unit are all connected.
I then checked the potenital between these points and the R connector and it was 29.5VAC.

Just one last question.. Is it normal that the voltage is 29.5VAC, this seems quite a bit higher than 24VAC.
I just wouldn't want to fry a modern thermostat!


texts: Was there a NEC Code Change that disallows 14 gauge wire in a residential receptacle?

texts: I am thinking of remodeling my home.  I have a bunch of 14 gauge THHN wire.  A friend told me I can't use 14 gauge wire in a residential receptacle application.  Has there a code change that would not allow 14 gauge wire to be used in residential receptacles?


texts:
Recently had a new fuse box installed, apparently we had a very old system that wouldn’t pass the safety check.

Had no problem with the old system, but the new one has tripped the sockets/cooker, the lights work ok.

Ive unplugged every plug and I’ve tried flicking the sockets and cooker switches on the board off and trying the tripped switch again and it won’t go back on. Also if I turn the lights off and try the tripped switch that’s meant for the sockets it will go on till I turn a light on and it trips again! Surely this shouldn’t be on the same circuit?

Only had this installed a few days ago, and the electrician can’t come back till tomorrow. Any help?


texts: New Wooden decking. To stain or not to stain

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I had new wooden decking installed on my balcony.
The guy that did the job says it doesn't need stain because the wood is already treated: http://www.diy.com/departments/premium-brown-softwood-deck-board-t28mm-w144mm-l3600mm/945944_BQ.prd

He said to sand and stain it in two years time, but I was wondering if I stain it now maybe it will last more than two years?
I live in London so, as you probably know, it rains A LOT. Wood is a very poor choice, but I can't change it because of the rules in my apartment lease.


texts: How to finish around the inside of new windows after replacing old ones

texts: New windows were put in about a year ago and we were left with the result shown in the photos. I'm tired of seeing this and want to fix and finish it myself. However, I'm not sure what steps to take.!


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How much heat is generated by a ceiling fan's remote control receiver? My last receiver was damaged by water exposure from the floor above (problem addressed). Still, I felt it a good idea to protect the next one from such damage. I've almost totally enclosed the receiver and it's connected wires in the bubble wrap bag it came in. I didn't seal it rightly (leaving a couple of small gaps at the bottom, but protecting the unit from water falling into it from above). The bag is very loose fitting around the unit.
I'm worried that I may be causing heat retention because of limited ventilation. I don't want to shorten the life of the receiver or possibly cause a fire risk.  I notice vents in the unit and what may be a heat sync metal plate inside. This is basically a remote switch and electrical passthrough. Switches shouldn't get hot in most cases I'm aware of. I'm just looking for confirmation of this being okay, or notice that I need to remove my water barrier.
Thank you


texts: installing a light fixture on a wooden ceiling

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I want to install a light fixture on a wooden, slanted ceiling.  There is no current light box.  How involved would this project be?

Thanks


texts: Is it safe to run a propane appliance from a portable propane cylinder?

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I want to install a small propane range/stove in my cabin, but don't want the hassle & expense of a giant propane tank in the yard. With the understanding that I use a regulator and the lines have to be sealed and leak-checked, and that the orifices have to be of the proper type, is it safe and proper to run the appliance off of, say, a BBQ cylinder?

In fact what I have is a tall 100lb cylinder that is full which I never use (it has a POL fitting, and I think the newer regulators come with a QCC (correct?) fitting). The other BBQ cylinders have the QCC fitting.

Further ... are the pressures coming off a large, installed commercially-supplied propane tank the same as those from the regulator of a BBQ cylinder? In other words, will my appliance know any difference?


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I have old switches at home for the fan and lights.
In short, 2 switches to control fan and lights separately.

Recently, I've been trying to add a timer switch which requires neutral and it doesn't seem to work as expected.

The wire setup, which worked with regular switches,

on left, there is black, red, and white and copper
on right, there is black, white, and copper.

Red(left) + black(right) = light on
Black(left) + black(right) = fan on

My old switches didn't have ground connected and only had the above two connected. Copper ones and white ones were connected to each other- which I don't quite understand why.

Anyways, what I tried was
- For light switch, have red(left) and black(right) connected.
- For fan switch, have black(left) and black(right) as hot and load, and use white one from connected white wires as neutral.

What happened was initially, the switch seemed to work (well, at least the light indicator was on), but as soon as I touched any buttons, it died. light switch continued to work.

Was hot and load possibly flipped? I still don't quite understand why the switch behaved/died the way it did even with this assumption.

Any help here would be tremendously appreciative!!


texts: Advice on grouting wall tiles with gaps between wall and tile

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I have a bathroom wall that I'm wanting to re-grout. I've removed the old grout, and have found there's a space between the back of the tiles and the wall. The tiles seem pretty solid though (after pushing on them, they don't seem to be going anywhere).
The problem is when grouting the vertical gaps in the tiles, the grout just falls through and into the space between the tile and walls. I'm not sure how the original tiler/builder managed to grout this.
I was thinking of packing the gaps with material (foam I guess?) so the grout has something to sit on. Does that seem right? Or are there an other ideas out there?


texts: How should I remove baking soda from my carpet?

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I had an issue with wet carpet in my room. I dried it using clothes and towels as much as I could but after that I put baking soda on it. Google seemed to suggest it was a good idea. I thought you could remove it easily by just vacumming it. But now i find the soda is actually stuck on the carpet. No matter how hard I try, it is impossible to vacumm it. I tried to use a a wooden comb or a scrub but it only had a mild effect. Can someone help me how I can remove this soda from the carpet. I live in rented accomodation so I am freaking out.

Someone said use vinegar with a cloth but I am scared now cos i dont wana complicate things further. thanks


texts: How can I replace these old ceiling tiles?

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I recently had a roof leak and some water got into my bedroom and the ceiling sagged a bit. It has appeared to dry out and we have cracks in the seams from the tiles apparently shrinking.
Upon closer review i notice the tiles appear to be like cardboard but I don't know where i would be able to find them. I am also wondering if they would have asbestos, in which case I wouldn't want to mess with it.
Any help is greatly appreciated and i have attached photos, and I think they are stick on tiles.


texts:
I recently purchased a home. During the inspection there was measured radon levels of 6.3 PiC/L.
After having a professionally installed radon mitigation system, an electronic sensor indicates an unchanged level of 6.3. The system was installed 5 days ago.
The contractor noted clay soil underneath the basement slab.
What strategies can I employ to reduce my radon levels further? Should remain optimistic about reducing the levels below the WHO guideline of 2.7?


texts: Are these dishwasher symptoms consistent with a blocked drainage hose?

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I believe that my dishwasher's drainage hose is partially blocked. Are the following symptoms all consistent with / explained by that, or is there something else I should be worried about?

Not fully draining

After a wash there is normally an inch or two of pretty clean water left lying at the bottom of the dishwasher.
Doesn't seem like dirty washing water - seems more like rinsing water. Hence my suspicion that the blockage is only partial.

Drastically increased salt usage

Previously a salt-refill would "last" 3-5 months. It's now asked for 4 refills in a month.
I'm guessing this is caused by the water not draining, which means the salt reservoir sits underwater the whole time?

Rust spots on cutlery

Dishwasher has a top cutlery drawer and knifes have recently started coming out with notable rust spots, where they didn't previously do so.

Glasses with greasy streaks
Less effective cleaning in general

I've followed the manual's instructions about cleaning the filter, and checking that the impeller wheel is unobstructed, to no effect. (Manual, page 27/28) So I think it's in the pipe itself, not in the dishwasher?

Have I judged this correctly?

See here for my question about what I should do if I am right.


texts: How to hang IKEA KUNGSFOR kitchen suspension rails, partly in stud, partly in plasterboard

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I'm looking to install 2 IKEA KUNGSFOR suspension rails to create a combination close to this, but with 1 fewer shelf and using a grid on the back instead.

My kitchen is fairly small (formed from the recesses of 2 other rooms) and the wall I want to mount the rails / grid / shelf on is a stud partition wall.

I am able to line up one of the suspension rails with a stud, but not the other.

For the stud fastenings I planned on using 3 x 5ø 60mm wood screws.

For the plasterboard fastenings I'm not sure what the best option is. The weight of the setup before any load is:

2 x Suspension Rails: 1.0kg each = 2.0kg
Grid: 1.3kg
Shelf: 2.5kg
Magnetic Rail: 0.7kg
Total: 6.5kg

Ultimately this will be used for storing knives (on the magnetic rail), various kitchen implements (e.g. spoons, spatulas, ladle etc.) and on the shelf a stainless steel pot and pan. It won't be used for extraordinarily heavy loads (e.g. cast iron pans, heavy jars, etc.)

What would be the most suitable fixing for the 1 rail that needs to be fastened to plasterboard, if safely possible?


texts: Can I cut tile to follow the profile of a closet flange?

texts: If I mount the closet flange to the substrate, can I cut the tile to match the radius of the ring with a small gap between the tile and ring I.E 1/8"


texts: Did four LED light bulbs break my light fixture?

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I have a bathroom light fixture with 4 light bulbs. Until yesterday, those light bulbs were the classic incandescent light bulbs from GE. That light fixture has been working for the last 7 years with those light bulbs.

I replaced the light bulbs with 4 Greenlite LED light bulbs (3000K, 9W). I turned off the light fixture. Replaced the light bulbs and turned it back on. The 4 LED light bulbs were turned on for half a second and then short circuited (it tripped the breaker). I removed the LED light bulbs and put back the GE incandescent light bulbs. Reset the breaker. Same results: the light bulbs turn on for half a second and then the breaker trips. I cannot use the light fixture anymore. I haven't tried the LED light bulbs in another light fixture.

What did I do wrong? What am I missing? Did the LED light bulbs broke the light fixture?


texts: How do I correct free-standing deck moving away from home?

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I have what is primarily a free-standing deck (18x22) in the back of my house.  I say "primarily" because I did nail into the ledger board underneath my glass sliding door, but only there.  The rest of the deck is floating and I did this only to ensure the deck was flush with the house.

The deck has been up for about 7 years, but recently it is begun to move away from the house a bit, by about an inch or two.  The board underneath my glass sliding door (that was there before the deck was installed and that I nailed onto) is now pulling away with my deck.  One of the main support beam for the deck that rests about a foot from the house has begun to tilt as well.

My question is, how should I best correct this before it becomes a major problem?

I would add that I think more recently (past year or two), the ground became soft due to some of the dirt around the footings settling, and allowing water to pool there and soak into the ground.  I've since corrected that.

My thought was to use lag bolts through the siding and to the rim joist of the house over the full 22 foot length, to prevent any further movement away from the house, and possibly trying to "pull" it back to the house with some external leverage.  Of course the deck isn't small, so I thought maybe a few turns of the lag bolts every week or so from inside the house might help  bring it in.

There is siding between the rim joist and the deck (and probably about 3 inches space between the deck joist and house rim joist), so I would drill right through the siding and then caulk it to prevent moisture going behind the siding.

Is this ridiculous, or am I on the right track?  Any assistance or suggestions are appreciated!


texts:
We have a multistory apartment building where the hallway lights were switched from CFLs to LEDs. These lights are continuously on.

Originally the LEDs were SATCO 15W bulbs. These lasted about a year before beginning to flash/blink/flicker.

They have been replaced with FEIT Electric 10W bulbs. These now last less than 30 days before flickering.

The flashing goes at maybe 5Hz for a minute before going solid again before eventually dying.

There is no dimmer switch on the circuit (common cause of LED flicker). Am not sure what to check. Is there not enough resistance in the circuit? (The 10W bulbs don’t last as long as the 15W bulbs)


texts: Refrigerator seems to run continuously (or very long times)

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It's a beko CRF4800. The coils get hot and it runs for 40 minutes straight, resting for around the same time. It makes quite a loud buzzing noise, I think something is up with the fridge. I've already tried:

Cleaning the refrigerator coils and compressor completely from dust

Unplugging and melting it for 12 hours

Adding a layer of petroleum jelly to the gaskets so it would insulate better and cold air couldn't go out

Is it OK to remove the Vaseline now?

It started just buzzing like insane and running for about 1h30min after I added that jug of water into the deep freezer like I was told it's supposed to decrease run time... The deep freezer doesn't get used in our house, so it just runs without a purpose. I was told that it's better than "cooling volumes of air"

It also makes a bubbly or a wave noise when it's running and seems like it's "breathing" for some time after the compressor stops running

The temperature setting is on the very warmest, it still cools the food like a normal fridge with that setting, which is awesome (6C max in the freezer) but it hums all the time.

Thanks!


texts: Remotely tracking room temperature with smartphone, tablet or laptop

texts: I need a way to remotely monitor the temperature of my room. It is very important to know (for health reasons) the temperature of a specific room in my home. In the future I will also look for a way to adjust the thermostat of the room or turn A/C on/off depending on the situation but now I am looking for a way to simply track the temperature of a room remotely using smartphone, tablet or laptop. Any of the three would suffice.


texts: Single sub-panel from 3 phase panel and the main breaker size

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I have an old 3 phase panel next to a separate single phase 100 amp panel that is being used by one residence. This space has been used as a carpenter shop and an office in the past.  Now it is being divided into two residences and I want to use the 3 phase panel for one of the residences by installing a single phase 120/240 subpanel.  The place that I will need to install the subpanel is in the same building but it is about 60 ft away from the three phase panel. The 3 phase panel is powered by three #6 wires from the pole and there is no main breaker in this panel. I believe the system is Delta and two legs are 120 and one is 208. The questions are:

Since the wire coming from pole is #6, what is the maximum Amp that I put in the 3 phase panel in order to power the sub-panel.  Can I use 70amp?
Can I use an entrance service cable ALU#4 inside the building above the existing suspended ceiling with or without conduit?
Is it better to connect the cable#4 to the 120 legs or 70Amp breaker?
I will use a 60Amp breaker in the sub-panel because I want the 60 amp breaker to trip before the 75 Amp in the main panel.
There is an existing three phase 60 amp breaker in the panel.  Can I use the two connectors that give 120 Amps?  Is it ok for me to put 60 Amps in the subpanel?

ThreePhaseEel has asked me a couple of questions. First, I want to thank him for the answer. As to the color of the 3 phase wires from the pole, all are green. I don't see any white either. The high leg is the first wire from left in the box that is 208v. The second and third are 120v. So I think instead of A-B-C I have B-A-C. In the box the color of Bus bar C has been painted red but the voltage of this bar is 120. The voltages that you are showing are correct.

What I don't understand is where the white wire from the pole is, although I see the white wire has entered the adjacent breaker box from the pole.

What should I do when I don’t see white neutral coming from pole to 3phase panel?  Is it possible there is only one neutral for both single and 3 phase panels? Can I use the neutral in single phase to connect to the single-phase 60-amp panel that is from 3 phase panel? How can you distinguish #6 PE from XLPE?

What is this balancing issue warning that some people are talking about when you want to install a single phase sub-panel of a 3 phase panel? Is it OK to have 60 amp breaker as feeder and as main sub-panel? Which one will trip first if there is a short?

Finally a question about conduit.  Can I use two 1.5” 90 degree elbows (like S shape) connected to each other?


texts: Is electrical Arc and overload the only potential fire causer for electrical wiring?

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I would like to know if Arc faults and circuit overlords are the only potential fire starters directly related electrical wiring failures or issues? I ask this assuming any device plugged in is not the issue (ie, appliance).
If this is the case does a afci (outlet or breaker) and standard breaker provide almost full protection? (I leave out gfci as I have not read that being related to fires but instead shock hazards)
I am including an updated list of electrical fire starters below based on the answers for benefit of other readers. These are direct underlying causes of ignition under the assumption appliance/device is operating correctly:

Arcing
High amperage overload
Continuous amperage load over certain efficiency level of gauge wiring


texts:
Doorbell does not ring. Tested wires to buttons, they have power.
The chime unit seems to have power to both back and front all the time, even after disconnecting wires from both buttons. Not sure worth tracking it down, could it be something else besides a short in doorbell wiring?


texts: Why would said gas furnace keep shutting off?

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Seems that I have a gas furnace that is having some sort of heat/air sensing issue.

Basically it shuts off after running for a minute or two.  But if I remove the top plate of the furnace itself it runs just fine.

It has an automatic ignitor which is doing just fine.   Also no errors on the motherboard.  But as soon as I put the top plate (area of ignition and flames) back on it will short cycle on me.

Too many registers closed?  I just cleaned the filters out so that isn't it...

More Info:
Model - will get the exact when I get home but its a Rheem high efficiency model bought about 5 years ago.

Any recent changes - Finished basement 3-4 months ago and added to duct lines - the duct lines have been up 5 months.

Can I see pilot light?  There is no pilot light since it is automatic ignition.  The ignition is working fine.  Flames come on strong with cover on or off - so don't think it is a gas issue and I have several other appliances with no gas issues.  With cover on it does seem like there is a grasp for air eventually (after a couple minutes).  I can't see the flames with the cover on but it seems to go through a normal shut-down and cycles back on in a few minutes.

Filter - Filters are brand new.

Does the blower run when unit is off?  No.  As mentioned before I can't find anything odd except for the short cycling and the what it seems like lack of air.

The two PVC pipes meet about 4 feet above and go out the back of the house.  The one on the left is always a little warm and the one on the right cool.  There doesn't seem to be anything obstructing the pipes but I also did the "paper" test while the furnace was on and it didn't suck the paper in.  Today was about 20 degrees here and I could notice warm air coming from the pipe outside (not blowing but you could tell).

This is with furnace door off.  Everything seems to be working fine.  Has electronic ignition so no pilot.

Other note:  We have an electronic air filter that has been turned off for a while because of some construction we are doing.  Found out today that it is dead.  Shouldn't matter to the furnace but who knows.


texts: Do circuits with #12 wire need 20A receptacles?

texts:
In one of the bedrooms all of the duplex receptacles are 20 amps. Do I need a 20 amp switch?

Also, I have a garage which is about 30 feet from the house and the wire that goes underground is either 10 or 12 gauge. Do I need a 20 amp switch for that? I always thought that if you have 12 gauge wire the receptacles or switches should always be 20.

Also since my garage is all 12 or 10 gauge do the switches in the garage have to be 20 amp? I know NEC makes exception to this rule, but what is the correct thing to use?


texts: How do I set up a massive spider glue trap like the one found on Reddit a week ago?

texts:
The thread details are at http://www.reddit.com/r/WTF/comments/kdmd2/thought_id_check_the_spider_trap_i_stuck_in_my/.

Does anyone know what sort of glue trap I should buy? And what are the best locations to set these traps up? Should it be under the drawer? In a corner? Or what else? Also - should there be a cover over the trap?

Are there also glue traps that work on the walls? (maybe even for spiders that go upside down?) And also - do they work better than the Victor Poison-Free Magnet traps? (that have walls that might divert possible spiders)

Images attached below.


texts: How can I tell if this is a gas or wood burning fireplace

texts:
From what I've been able to determine what's pictured is a gas log lighter for wood burning fireplaces. The prior owner did some questionable stuff so I don't know if it was originally gas and he "converted" it to wood burning or if it was originally wood burning. As an example the log lighter is not installed correctly.

What things should I look for to confirm if it is wood burning or gas.


texts: What safety/testing measure should I take for this whole-house electrical project?

texts:
I have a house built in the 70s with aluminum wiring. I am well aware of the specific risks and needs when working with this wiring in my home.

There was work done in the house by the previous owner where aluminum rated fixtures were not used. There are original fixtures in the house which are simply worn (loose plugs) and ugly (faded off white plastic).

I am planning a project to simply replace the outlets and switches in the house en masse. What additional safety precautions or test procedures should I consider when doing a whole-house job like this?

For example, should I simply shut off the mains and do ALL of the fixtures then test everything at once or do it room-by-room?

Is there an example plan that an electrician would use to plan wiring or re-wiring a house?

At this time the project only encompasses switches and outlets. Getting into other fixtures and replacing wire nuts or terminals with 'alumiconn' connectors will be a separate effort.

I have ruled out rewiring the home. I feel that the risk of aluminum wiring is sufficiently mitigated by using proper fixtures and connections. Using proper fixtures is significantly less expensive than a full rewire.

As I have done other projects I have replaced the fixtures that I touch. For example I repainted a room and replaced its fixtures with correct, aluminum rated, outlets. I am comfortable with verifying that circuits are cold, correctly connecting new fixtures, and testing those fixtures.


texts: Garage on the 2nd floor of a 3 story townhome on a hill-slope

texts:
I was looking at a 3-story 2000's townhome in a good community built on a hill - The top 2 stories are both open on all sides, with the bottom one under road level and closed off on one side.
            ________________________
            |    Living Area       |
            ________________________
Road Level  | Garage     | Bedroom |
XXXXXXXXXXXX ________________________
XXXXXXXXXXXX| Bedroom    | Bedroom | Backyard|

Considering it's a new-ish home, should I be worried about the Garage being on top of a bedroom? We were planning to have our children live in the bottom floor, so that's added a bit to the anxiety. Is this a fairly common scenario in homes on hills?


texts: What tube should I use for a kitchen rail?

texts:
I am building a kitchen rail for hanging utensils and frypans along the wall and need some help choosing the right tube size for the job.

Because I'm renting the place I don't want to drill any holes, so the rail must be one long piece of tube lying on two support legs.

Rail length needed is 2.5 meters or 103 inches.

There are few sizes of alloy square tubes I can easily get in Sydney are:

20mm x 3mm   - 0.787" x 0.118"
25mm x 3mm   - 0.984" x 0.118"
25.4 x 1.2mm - 1" x 0.047"

(I grew up in the metric world and did all conversions to inches in google calc, sorry if the numbers look awkward)

I think overall I'll be hanging 5-8kg or 10-18 pounds of stuff, distributed mostly along one half of the rail.

What formulas should I use to calculate the size of the tube needed, or the maximum weight a particular tube can support?

Would circular tubes be stronger in this application? If yes, what are the formulas for circular tubes?


texts: Correcting bad band saw cuts on an aluminum bar

texts:
I am trying to make a rigid aluminum box with a top for use in a 20 ton arbor press (I do not plan to subject the box to 20 tons but it may see 4-5) to press glass fret in. I salvaged some 3/8 inch thick plate that students used to learn how to use a drill press so it is full of holes. I was able to salvage some workable rectangular prism strips to make the sides of my box, but the band saw was not cutting straight so my cuts are not square. I wanna clean up the edges i cut with an end mill. My problem is the cuts are pretty bad so I am not sure how i can preset a surface will be square after I level it with the end mill.

Anyone have any good ideas for this? Doesn't have to be perfect but needs to be decent for my weld step.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Oven heating element just blew (WOW!). Went & killed the breaker. Clock on range is still running. And is flipping me off

texts:
UPDATE - 03-15
Okay, so I (clearly) survived the night, along with many since, as I have awaited the backordered OEM part.
It finally arrived.
So today, I pulled it out the unit, and fully-unplugged/disconnected the unit. It's worth noting that, right after there was the kaboom up until today, the clock has read merely:

This is only interesting because try as I might, I cannot find ANY manufacturer that has "75" as a fault code.
Regardless, I replaced the heating element, turned everything back on, and... no luck. Oven's still dead. Rangetop works fine. Just nothing digital.
The clock - and I did my best to accurately reproduce this, both in brightness and shape - however NOW reads:

...which, quite aside from the fact that I don't even need to LOOK to know "8 Phi"/"B Phi" isn't a valid fault code. Hell, even if I assume it's trying to phonetically tell me "eighty-five" (...or "beefy"?): no luck there either. Neither appears to be a valid code for any mfg.
Worse, I can't help but feel like it also looks like it's flipping me off now.
I'm guessing when it arced it grounded to the body of unit. New ECB is next. Sigh.
Original Post
Oven heating element just blew (WOW!). Went & killed the breaker. Clock on range is still running?
Do they have a battery backup or something? Is it possible the breaker (a gfci breaker, which was a new one on me, also) is still letting 110 through?
My first day in here I took a circuit tracer to every outlet, switch, and fixture in the place (that's totally normal, right?). I'm damn positive it was the correct breaker.
This is a rental place here, and the wiring is JAN-KY. Like 15  outlets (5 rooms) on the same 15a circuit janky. Like 100A service on a 4Br 3ba that is itself only 1/2 of a duplex janky. Like half the outlets couldn't hold a plug in em when I moved in janky.
How worried should I be at this point? I'm prepared to assert with some confidence after the Tesla Coil BeyouuuutGrongGrongGrongBzzzzzzzat! sound accompanied by the ballistic fragments of metal and at least MOST of its magic smoke's release that continuity was broken. It's also in the 40's here, so I'd really prefer NOT to kill the main if I don't gotta.
The unit is a Admiral (which I swear I'd thought was a Harbor Freight brand): LER3330AAZ
https://www.partselect.com/Models/LER3330AAZ/
And just to be thorough:

To be clear: I'm asking how dangerous, if at all, is it to leave plugged in, possibly to a (partially?) live circuit? Getting it pulled away from the wall ain't gonna be pretty. I live alone (no little hands at risk. Just me. And I prolly have it coming...)
Edit: that is, leave it until it's full light and I can manhandle it into the open. I'm twitchy because that sure LOOKED like a ground fault, and it's all stainless... I don't really wanna move it until daylight.


texts: Is my furnace limit switch tripping due to a flawed coil installation?

texts:
I have two furnaces - one for each floor. One of the furnaces that were replaced within a year keeps blowing cold air randomly. I would reset it by turning the main power switch off/on and then it would work for a while and stop working again with either a 13 or 31 code. This Payne unit seems to have a bad limit switch.

So, a furnace flue gentleman came out and inspect my piping and found something interesting. The path looks clear, but he found a "ducting" with coils that appear smaller than what should be in there. This causes hot air to accumulate and hit the limit switch after some time. Let me attach pictures here. This is a 90,000 BTU unit.

Thoughts? Bad install? Common in the field? I am not an expert so feel free to correct my terminologies or put me in my place :)


texts: how do I replace an unknown brand casement window?

texts:
this is an old house. it has double paned casement window. some of them are foggy and need to be replaced. I dont know what brand it is. but on the casement window operator, it saids "entrygard truth". not sure if only that operator is made by entrygard or the whole window.

I just want to know if I can just go to homedepot to buy a casement window sash to replace the one I have.  I am not sure if they are all standard.


texts: Why does my subpanel have 4 wires feeding into the lugs?

texts:
Background: This is a sub-panel for my pool equipment (filter pump, cleaner pump, and pool light). The wires coming from the main panel come in through the bottom, and the wires going out the left side go to the timer box for the pumps. Note that the ground and neutral wires are bonded on the same bus. My understanding is that this was allowed under old code, so it's grandfathered in. I really have no other way to handle this because I can't easily run a fourth wire.

Question: Can you explain the wires coming from the main panel into the sun-panel? There are two black wires going into each of two lugs, and then two bare wires going to the ground bus. All of this is coming from a double-pole 60A breaker in the main panel.

Adding some more info...

This is the pool timer box to the left of the sub-panel.  Yes, both pumps are 240V as far as I can tell.  The 120V circuit goes down into the GFCI outlet, and back out and over to a regular toggle light switch and the pool light.  I don't know how all of this passed the home inspection before I bought the house a few years ago, but it has all been working fine.

This is my main panel.  The sub-panel for the pool equipment is hooked up to the double-pole 60A breaker.  No sign of the aluminum wire anywhere, and there is no other sub-panel anywhere on my property.  My main panel was put in when I bought the house, and it replaced a main panel and a sub-panel right next to it.  I suspect that things got a little screwy as a result of that.

The reason that all of this came up was that I wanted to add a couple of regular 120V z-wave switches for the pool light and the filter pump.  The booster pump is no longer in use.  I thought I was going to need a 240V contactor in conjunction with one of the z-wave switches for the 240V filter pump, but now it sounds like this whole setup is screwed up.

Adding a couple more pictures for clarity...

The conduit coming out of the top of the meter box goes up through the roof.  That's where the main service line from the pole comes in.  The conduit coming out of the bottom of the meter box (I believe) goes to the pool pump panel.  The conduit looks to be 2 inches in diameter.  Note that my main panel is on the other side of the wall from the meter box.  The transfer switch for my generator is on the let.  Don't mind the AT&T box on top of the meter box.

This is the sub-panel attached to a concrete fence at the back of my property.  It feeds into the Intermatic timer box to the left.  The conduit going into the bottom of the sub-panel is where the feeder wires are coming from.  The two lines coming out of the bottom of the timer box go to the two pumps.  The conduit coming of out the left side of the timer box goes to a GFCI outlet and switch for the pool light.  You may have noticed that there's no longer a GFCI outlet on the bottom of the timer box.  I removed it, and put the outlet and the light switch in a single box on the left (out of the picture).

This is the automatic transfer switch for the backup generator.  I don't see anything interesting in there that might be tied to the pool pump panel.


texts: Redirecting cold air from a floor-vent to ceiling

texts:
The bedroom on the third floor of my house has floor one floor vent for supply and one for return. In the summer, the central AC works extra hard but yet the bedroom is only about 75% cool compared to the rest of the house.
I reckon the cold air coming out of the single supply vent flows along the floor without rising to the bed level and pours out of the bedroom down the stairwell into the house below. I say this because there is quite the pressure gradient between the second floor and the top of the stairwell on the third floor since its really hot in that stair well. All the hot air from the house is collecting there.

I am going to block the bottom of the bedroom door with towels or put weather strips. But I wanted to know if I can run a makeshift duct from the floor vent to the ceiling of the bedroom so that the cold air at least cools the room as it rushes toward the stairwell instead of flowing along the floor.
It wont be pretty and it will be visible, but that is something I can live with.

What materials would I need to properly cover the vent and run a duct to the ceiling?
I would appreciate any insight to this matter.
Thank You

EDIT

I have added a schematic diagram of the room with dimensions including the dimension of the vent which is 12 inches x 6 inches. The height of the room is 12 feet.
I guess I have more of a fluid dynamics question now.
Whether I use register boosters or duct guides, is it realistic to expect the dense cold air to fan out as it heads to the floor? Or would it just stream back to the floor in a columnar fashion?


texts: Can I extend a cable to add another outlet?

texts:
I have a wire coming down out ceiling with 2 conductors--white wire black wire that powers an outlet. I am wondering, to add an outlet off this, can I just run the 2 wires to the top screws on neut and hot and add another old 2 wire cable to the two bottom screws and then land the end of that to add an outlet in my bath rm?

There's a light switch in there, a 2-conductor wire, but it won't power switch and outlet


texts:
I just bought a ryobi 15 Amp 12 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser.  I never use miter saw before. Cut a few 2x4 to learn how to use it.  The problem is everytime I cut, I get a "burning" smell. Not sure if its normal or blade touched other metal parts caused that burning smell.

I also adjusted the depth. I don't think blade touched anything. but still get burning smell.


texts: How can I install a window air conditioner and still allow the window to be opened?

texts:
I want to install a window based air conditioner but still allow for the ability to open the window when needed. I was thinking of using a piece of wood screwed into the window frame to support the air conditioner and prevent it from falling out.

Is that the right way to go about it?


texts: Regulating voltage at end of 200 foot 120 V AC extension cable

texts:
I am needing to drill some anchor bolts into concrete using an electric Hammer Drill (Electrical Rating 120VAC / 60Hz / 10A). I am working in a warehouse, and the worst case scenario, the furthest anchor point from a receptacle is 200 feet. In the past, I saw a company use a box that apparently bumped the voltage up (to regulate it) to account for the voltage drop. I have NO limitations here (other than distance) to consider when helping me.

What is that 'box' called. I searched the internet for regulators, but the only thing I could find was power inverters for vehicles. Can you please point me in the right direction. I am trying to avoid having to rent a generator like I did the last time...they're LOUD and exhaust fumes indoors is deadly.


texts: Ridge vent conversion creating heat problem

texts:
I have a classic 1964 rambler. I recently had a new roof put on and additional insulation blown in to bring the R factor to 40. The contractor recommend replacing the original venting with ridge vent.
The first day the outside temperature was above 75, the entire house was cooking. Before the new roof was placed, it had to be above 80 degrees for 48 hours to create this kind of heat inside. We haven't started our summer season and if this is bad now, it will be unbearable then. They made no adjustments for additional soffit vents. Is this the reason? Shouldn't the additional insulation help keep the heat above the ceiling? Are there any steps I should take to improve the venting?


texts: Power a ceiling fan motor and light from the supply side of a three way switch

texts:
I currently have a standard three way switch: 14/2 source -> three way switch -> 14/3 wire -> three way switch -> lights.  I would like to add a ceiling fan. I have room and access in the box with the 14/2 source. I can easily wire the fan to a simple switch and then control lights and motor with the ceiling fan chains.
  I would like to have the motor on the single switch and the lighting from my three way circuit. I can run 14/3 to my fan, but I don't see any possible way to provide power for the lights from the 14/2 supply box. Is there a way?
  My other option is power to the motor from the 14/2 supply box using a simple switch then run a second line from an existing light to the fan. The idea of running two 14/2 romex lines to single fan seems wrong to me though.


texts: Can I add a 20A outlet to my 30A water heater circuit?

texts:
I bought my wife a smallish Kiln and it requires a 20 amp circuit.

Right next to where we want to use this Kiln is our hot water tank which is on a dedicated 30 amp circuit coming out of the main breaker box.

I want to run a 12 AWG wire out of the disconnect box for the hot water heater down the wall about 3 feet then connect a 20 amp GFCI outlet to plug this Kiln into.

1) Is this ok to do?

2) If yes, should I also install a single 20 amp breaker between the disconnect box and the outlet?

3) If yes to the single 20 amp breaker, is there a specific small single breaker box I can use?


texts:
Earlier this month, we starting having problems with our sewer line; it began with the downstairs toilet flushing very slowly, then not flushing at all, then backing up when the upstairs was flushed. After consulting with the previous homeowner (a contractor), he advised that the sewer line was probably frozen (we live in Fairbanks, AK). We called a thawing company, they can and steamed the line, and everything was copacetic.

Fast forward to two days ago. Same symptoms started appearing; very slow flushing downstairs toilet, but the shower and sink drains run fine. So, we called the thawing company back after plunging, running a closet auger down, etc.

They came out and found that the line was not frozen, and checked the vent stacks... One of which was frosted shut. They steamed both vent stacks, and called it a day.

Now, the toilet is still flushing very slowly. I'm not sure what else to troubleshoot; I'm now out almost $500 in steaming service, and I can't find a plumber that can come out until next week. Suggestions?


texts: Do acrylic glu-up tub surrounds require backer boards, waterproof membrane underneath?

texts:
I'd like to replace my aging PVC tub surround with an inexpensive acrylic 3-panel one. Assuming I am down to bare studs after removing the existing surround (perhaps the backing wall will be damaged), what must I install on top of studs before I can glue the acrylic panels?

If it's a cement board, like Durock, Hardibacker, or Wonderboard, do I need to apply a waterproofing membrane (like RedGard) as well?


texts: Under Cabinet led strip lights appear to be different colors/temperatures

texts:
I have been in my home for about a year. My wife just noticed that the led strip lights under our cabinets in the kitchen are all the same except in one location, where they are less "white" and more "yellow". I don't recall the colors being this different in the past. Is it possible  for them to fade or change?
We don't have any remote or programming, they plug into a brick in an outlet under the sink and it looks like there is wiring connecting multiple strips in different locations.
Is this something I can somehow change, can these change on their own? Or is it likely somehow a strip preset to a different color temperature got mixed in?
Side note - not sure if it is related, we had flickering lights in a few places (not the one place where it looks more yellow) - is it possible for some type of damage?
It's a bit hard to capture the light in photos, but here is the diff between two area taken from the same position in the room


texts: How can I prevent these steel poles from rusting?

texts:
I have a pole home on a hill, and the steel poles keep getting covered with dirt when it rains, so they've started to rust.

I am desperate to do something. I was thinking of embedding the poles in concrete and creating a concrete floor underneath the house. Will this stop the poles from rusting? Or will the poles rust under the concrete?

The house was built around 1984.


texts: Why do the two-pronged Shaver Sockets in the UK have two sets of connectors?

texts:
In the UK, you can often find two-pronged sockets in bathrooms; the idea of these is that they offer a lower voltage than standard three-pronged sockets, so are safer to use for charging lower-powered devices.

I've noticed that some of these faceplates offer two sets of prongs - one on either side. Interestingly, it's only possible to connect a single device at once - attempting to connect a second doesn't work; it simply won't fit if there is already a plug in the other socket. Does anyone know why these faceplates have two connectors if it's only possible to physically have one charging at a particular time?


texts: How do I make channels in plaster for electric lines?

texts:
Most of my walls consist of solid plaster over masonry, which makes electrical work difficult to say the least. I want to add some wiring to an existing wall in order to add light fixtures to a room which currently lacks them. Since there are no stud bays to run wires, I will need to cut channels in the plaster to run armored cable or conduit.

What are the best tools and techniques for accomplishing this?


texts: Why won't my washer turn off when breaker is off?

texts: I have switched off all the breakers and my washing machine continues to run. How is that possible? How can I fix it?


texts: I am trying to change from an American Standard AYSTAT655 to a Honeywell RTH8560D but wiring does not match anything in the Honeywell manual.  Anyone able to assist?


texts: If I am using two 4 x 4 post as a base will a 2 x 6 hold an outdoor chair swing for a person to 240 pounds?


texts: Is there a way to have one zone at a time calling for heat? i have 2 zones an one furnace temp is house ok if one stat calls for heat but when they both it takes forever to heat house


texts:
We are having a fairly large built-in bookshelf (w cabinets in bottom) made for our livingroom and the guy making it recently mentioned that he was considering mdf for the back panel (the rest of the bookshelf is plywood). Is mdf ok if it is just the backing? The is going to be a 90 inch wide unit, 8ft tall. We hope to have this stay strong and in good condition for many years. Just trying to understand if this is a bad place to use cheaper materials or if it is ok?
Also, the 90" unit is made up of three columns of 30" wide shelves. We had imagined that he would have constructed 3 different segments -basically three different bookcases of 30" each and then attached them together. But instead he has started it as one huge unit - a 90" board all the way across the top and bottom. (One unit for the top and one unit for the run of bottom cabinets.) He is adding vertical plywood panels going down at 30" intervals inside the 90" frame/box that he has made.  Aside from my confusion about how he will attach fixed shelving at the same height throughout the unit, I am also wondering if the unit will be much weaker and less stable if it is made as one 90" piece versus three separate smaller units attached.
I kniw he's done other carpentry projects but I don't think he's ever done something like this before so I'd like confirmation that this all sounds ok (and advice on mdf backing).
Thanks!!!!


texts: Fixing masonry opening in chimney for water heater vent

texts:
What the right way to fix this? This is the opening to a chimney, for the vent pipe for a water heater. I needed to enlarge the opening from 3 inch to 4 inch. You can see the round part on the left side.

I was cutting it larger with a hammer drill, and this piece came out (you can see my marking for the new size I need, and the holes I drilled to cut it):

The back side, has some brick and some plaster (and yes, whoever did this before me stuffed it with newspaper, which can still be read, 20 or more years later):

You can see how the broken piece fits in the wall:

Should I glue the piece back in? Is there some kind of flat metal plate I can just put over the entire thing? Ignore the broken piece and just rebuild it with plaster?


texts: Jennair JES9900BAS20 keeps blowing infinite switches on right front "custom control" element

texts: Original infinite switch (p/n W10185286) failed so I replaced with a new switch. Worked for a day or so then nothing. Replaced with a second switch. Worked at initial test, then neither element would work after reassembling everything and sliding range back in. Have confirmed continuity through both sections of the element. Checked wiring btw switch and elements and could not find any damaged/burned wires. No visual or audible indications of arcing, no burned smell at switch or anywhere else. Other elements work fine (they use different switches and are tapped off same incoming 110V legs). Multi-wire connections at blown switch are made with plugs so no individual wires are swapped. Switches are ~$100 each so I dont want to keep buying/blowing switches until I can eliminate the cause of them failing. Any help would be greatly appreciated - thank you!


texts: Brass push-fitting pipe insertion depth (standard or varies by brand?)

texts:
I have a 90-degree "elbow" 1/2 (both sides) brass push-fitting installed by previous owner. I'm replacing the PEX pipe. I don't know the brand of the fitting but it is NOT SharkBite. Do all push-fittings have the exact same insertion depth for the same fitting or does it vary slightly? I have a SharkBite depth pipe gauge and marked the insertion depth on it but when I pushed into the non-SharkBite branded fitting I could not get it all the way to the insertion line that I marked. Asking those with far more experience if this is a real possibility before I test it and turn the water back on. (I've tried pushing, twisting, pulling it out and remarking a second time followed by more pushing and twisting only to be about 1/8" short of the marked line that I drew based on a SharkBite insertion tool).
I could test it but want to avoid any leak so thought I'd ask the professionals who've used multiple brands of pipe fittings before I potentially create more work and a mess in my installation.


texts: What is the right way to join aluminum house wiring to aluminum fixture wiring?

texts:
My home is 1970s construction with aluminum wiring. I have recently upgraded several fixtures in my bathroom and basement. These fixtures have all been internally wired with stranded aluminum wiring. The directions for these fixtures make no mention of special care needed for joining aluminum to copper. About half of the fixtures have shipped with some sort of crimp connector to join to the house wiring, the remainder have shipped with bog standard wire nuts. These fixtures are all LED lights. I expect them to be fairly low draw.

I am well aware of the risks of AL wiring when adding fixtures and outlets. CO/ALR receptacles triple the cost of simple work in my home. I am well aware of the risks and needs of joining aluminum wiring to fixtures made for copper.

Do I need to take any special precautions when wiring aluminum to aluminum for these new fixtures?

Do AL to AL connections pose any risks distinct from AL to CU connections?


texts:
I want to caulk the edges of my kitchen sink. Since I use the sink regularly to
wash food and do dishes, I want to make sure there won't be contamination.
I am considering 2 types of caulk. This food-grade caulk and a general use caulk
labeled for kitchen and other plumbing uses.

What is the difference between food-grade caulk and caulk labeled for kitchen use?

Is the general use caulk also safe around food and eating utensils?


texts: Green Corrosion on new sink shut off valve after only a year

texts: I just noticed some green corrosion around the shut off valve area under a bathroom sink. This is a new shut off valve that was installed by a plumbing company only around a year ago. Should I have them come out to re do it?


texts:
I'm looking at the possibilities of replacing my water heater. Currently we have an electric, 2 element, 50 gallon tank heater that is 32 years old and almost ready to go. The water can sometimes come out milky colored, rust colored, occasionally with rust flakes stopping up filters, etc. And runs about $850 a year in electricity. It still pumps out exceptionally hot water, but we're definitely paying for it.

So currently it's electric with tank hookups; we'd have to reroute the water pipes a little over to the wall and we'd also have to add a gas connection (the main runs directly overtop of where the unit would be. The main gas line comes in nearby at 1" and hits a T above the water heater where a 3/4" line runs to the furnace and a 1/2" line goes to our gas range. I've seen that pressure and such would have to be checked by a professional, but does this sound like it'd leave room for other WH?

Otherwise from what I can see, this is all fine and will work with what we have I believe. The last condition though, is venting this new gas exhaust. We have a vent line currently coming off of our gas furnace, which is directly beside the water heater, leading overtop of the water heater, and into a chimney. The furnace is the only thing that exhausts through this flue. Since the vent runs directly over the current location of the water heater, I'm wondering if we're able to connect straight into it with a T to vent the new water heater. I've seen many resources on this, but they all seem to give a different answer. One says to break in a new hole specifically for the WH, another says to connect them together, another says that you can't use the same chimney for both appliances and to create a new vent line to the nearest exterior wall, etc.

We could possibly take any of these routes and be able to work it in, but I'm hoping for the easiest acceptable solution and why it vs the others.

Also, as you might can see by the picture, the chimney appears to have had 3 other holes in the past that have been filled with concrete.. Or for some reason at least there are wads of concrete on it. One of these could possibly be used.

Also, here is a quick floor layout to show where everything is in relation to each other:


texts: How to physically disable the "large load" option on a washing machine?

texts: My old washing machine has 4 options (with the highest setting to be "large load"). How can I physically disable the dial in such a way that the large load will no longer be an option for the users?


texts: about NEMA 6-15 plug/receptacle for 240 V

texts:
The NEMA 6-15 plug/receptacle for 240 V power supply looks like the following:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Nema_6-15.svg

The two hots obviously should be connected to the two hot wires in the subpanel. But I am confused with the third one, the U shape hole. Should it be connected to the neutral bar or ground bar in the subpanel?


texts:
I recently purchased an old house.  The switch in the living room has two 14/2 wires.  One is the line to the breaker and the other is to three outlets on one wall.  I checked and the switch is wired to each entire outlet and not just the top of the duplex.  A cover plate is in the ceiling where I thought a ceiling fan was removed.  When I removed the plate I found one single (hot) strand of 14/2 romex that was not in a box.  Yikes!

I have since put the ceiling line in a box and rewired the box where the switch was so the outlets are always hot.  My goal is to install an overhead light.  Note:  When the breaker to the outlets is off, the ceiling line is still hot.  I traced the breaker of the ceiling light and have confirmed it is separate from the outlets.  I am familiar with x10 modules, but am not finding any module that doesn't require a switch to the overhead (which I do not have).

Does anyone know of a way I can control the overhead light I would like to install?  I'd like to use something other than a remote, but if a remote exists, I can fashion a switch where the other switch was mounted.  I would not like to have a pull chain as the light is over a coffee table and would be inconvenient.


texts: Is this the proper procedure for attaching a mosaic to the wall?

texts: When I began this mosaic project, it was suggested, because the tiles and stone chips were different thicknesses, I lightly glue the tiles, upside down, to brown craft paper. the mosaic is complete, upside down and reversed. I was told that at this point, I should grout from behind and attach stucco mesh to the back of the mosaic. When this is dry, I can use the thin set and attach to the wall. I am nervous about this and wonder if this is the correct way to proceed. Help?


texts: Detecting concealed PVC water pipe with ultrasonic sensor

texts:
I'm planning to install some glass shelves in one corner of my washroom. The problem is, there are some plumbing pipes snaking around underneath the ceramic tiles and I risk punching holes while mounting the metal brackets. Is it possible to use an ultrasonic sensor like this one to detect the water pipe behind the ceramic tiles?

Or is there any other inexpensive way to do this?


texts: How to fix a leaky basement wall from inside?

texts: I prefer clean, simple and effective ways to fix a leaky basement wall (small leak - about 16 oz from a heavy rain intermittently). Will any new tech or sealants work?


texts: I'm want to hange a privacy lattice in my carport. Dimensions are 8x8 feet, not including the 2x4's. The structure will be pretty heavy. Load will be supported from top by hinges in a 4x4. What's the cheapest/best option?


texts: House groaning and 'tock'ing like a ship at sea

texts:
About a half-hour ago, I heard a deep groaning noise, like the timbers of an old wooden ship at sea make.  That lasted the space of several seconds.  Half a minute or so after that stopped, I heard a deep 'tock-tock-tock' sound (definitely not some sort of bug ticking), which also sounded like ship's timbers.  I went to check on the other side of the wall, but it was quieting and I could barely hear anything before it stopped completely.

Is something going on with the wooden frame of my house?  I know houses make odd noises all the time, but this house was built in 1999 and I bought it 9 years ago and it has never made noises like this before now, even during wind storms with gusts above 90mph.  I should also note that I live on the Washington coast where it is nearly always damp and wet, though we did have a very dry summer and the rains started in earnest about a month ago.


texts: Is USE-2 or RHW-2 individual wire fit for direct burial or open-joist use?

texts:
I see companies selling USE-2/RHH/RHW-2 individual wires.  Many claim they are fit for direct burial or fixation to joists.  They are individual wires, and lack an outer jacket like SE-R or MH feeder has.

Can that be right?

If all that's true, it would seem like a nice solution to applications where conduit is desired for part of a run but individual wires for the rest.

Is the jacket extra tough to be able to endure direct exposure to soil/sand/crushing force?  How does it cope with the "all related wires must be in the same cable or conduit" rule of thumb?

If not, then what is the advantage of this cable over, say, XHHW-2 or THWN-2? Why would my distributor go to the expense of stocking both?


texts:
I've heard the terms "damp" and "wet" used in referring to lighting fixture ratings, but the fixture I am looking at has a specific IP rating. Is there an IP rating equivalent to the "damp" and "wet" ratings? The fixture I am looking at is a recessed, GU10 fixture with an IP44 rating.

Also, I do understand the IP rating system. For a fixture I intend to place in a rain shower, I should only need an IPX2 rating since condensation would be the method on ingress.


texts: Several dead outlets, but breaker is fine

texts:
In my living room, when I first moved in, there was a dead outlet.  Everything was tested by an electrician before I moved in, and there are a lot of outlets in the room, so I ignored it.  Then some time ago, the outlet I had my floor lamp in went dead.  Circuits were fine, everything else in the room/floor/house was working, just (again) one outlet.

Now a THIRD has gone in the same room - I am getting worried.  Is this likely a wiring problem?  Is this a DIY job or should I get an electrician to check it out?  The house is pretty old (1930's) and I have no idea when the current wiring was done.


texts: Plumber told me it's unsafe to drain my water heater -- what should I do?

texts:
We are new homeowners.  Our 11-year-old 2nd-floor water heater was leaking and the first plumber who came told us he would need to come back with a partner to take it away.  I asked if I could drain it in the meantime and he said that doing so could disturb the sediment at the bottom of the tank causing a much worse leak and likely water damage.  He said he usually removes leaking water heaters without draining the water till they're outside the house.

This sounded like a recipe for disaster, and it probably would have been.  As commenters and the correct answer below say, if you're ever told this, at the very least:

GET A SECOND OPINION!!!

The plumber who came today said that in 20 years he has never had problems draining a water heater, and he drained ours without incident.  It was then easy to remove and replace.


texts: How to make Handrail Transitions with Rotation?

texts:
We removed the old handrail that was not up to code and didn't reach the first step of the stairs as required.  We have a traditional guardrail installed on one side and we are having difficulties trying to find a good method of continuous transition on the other side, that has a wall angled 45 deg away with the first two steps. The handrail needs to terminate on the first step, not near the third.
Since we have traditional handrails, we can't make a simple miter cut because the short piece's top orientation will start to point away from the wall. With circular handrails, this is not a problem as there's not top/bottom.
How can we get a good/decent transition?
Stair slope: 41.5 deg
Inner angle of walls: 135 deg leveled (following the handrail path, the inner angle becomes 145 deg)
Stairs

Trouble wall

Example cut showing rotation needed to remain upright and proper distance

Traditional handrails being used


texts: I'm not a very contentious person. One of the most basic things I struggle with in all types of home improvements is how to properly mark measurements. Two examples, to mark the x/y position for a screw on the wall or properly mark where to cut a bolt that is too long. I try to use angle iron, spirit, and folding rule and mark it as closely as possible, but usually, I end up with a few millimeters off. Is there a good method to improve acc


texts:
Please excuse the crude drawing but would this work. In the UK so Brown is live, Blue is Neutral and Grey is Switched live. If left out the Earth from the drawing to simplify things.

I know control would be lost if switched off at the Dimmer but just wondering if this would work without setting fire to something.


texts: Having trouble with lights in my barn some are dim some really bright checked bus bars in panel one side is 89 volts other is 159 volts


texts: Sometimes certain things call for a washer to be put on a metal shaft, and then in order for the washer to not come back out, you would hammer the top of the shaft so that it deforms. I've heard someone call the process creating a "bur". But I don't think that's the right spelling. What's right word for it?