texts:
Got a free smart tstat from the electric company. Took off old tstat took picture, went to basement to check colors on the unit and r, w, and g matches up but the blue wire is connected to c on hvac board and y on tstat. Y is unused on hvac board.
Installed a c wire kit that came with tstat, which connected y and g at tstat to a diode that returned to hvac on blue to connect to a box with other wires. Hooked everything up per instructions got beat working but for ac, the compressor doesn't come on, the fan does.
Could I remove the c wire kit revert all wires back to normal and jump y to c on tstat since y on tstat is going to common on hvac and all works that way.?

Could I just g for common instead? I work with industrial hvac units but this small thing is baffling the hell out of me.
*** EDIT ***
@ThreePhaseEel
@jwh20
@Harper - Reinstate Monica

2 wires - red and white exiting to the right on lower wire are going to the condenser outside.
4 wires - red, white, green, blue exiting to the right on top wire are going to tstat.
4 wires - red, white, green, blue exiting bottom conduit go to air handler board
So, blue wire from c terminal on handler goes to white wire on condenser, blue wire from y terminal on tstat goes to red wire going to condenser.
red, green, white from tstat go to red green white on handler.
Only 4 wires to and from tstat
2 wires to condenser
5 wires going to air handler (Hey, theres that yellow wire)
How can I hook up my emerson sensi smart tstat?
Right now I am using green as common to get power to tstat, heat and fan work, condenser works but no fan.
How to I wire tstat as is or use the included c wire kit?


texts:
I live in a very old house. Up until recently, my doorbell worked fine, but at some point in the last couple months it stopped working. At the transformer, I see ~18V, so that appears to be ok, but it is what I see at the chime that has me a little confused.

The previous chime had three unlabeled wires run to it. My working assumption is that 1 is to the transformer, 2 goes to the front door and 3 may have run to another switch (but I don't know where this is/was). This is where I have become stumped: At the chime, if I measure between 1 (the transformer wire) and either of the others, I read ~8V. I get this reading whether the front door switch is opened or closed (I took the button off and have tested Voltage with them loose and also tied together). Can anyone help me with a likely explanation for this? As I said before, the system was working up until recently.


texts: Is there any benefit to upsizing to 3/4" pipe off a 1/2" main supply?

texts: I have a half inch main supply coming from the street (house built in 1954). Is there any benefit if I run 3/4 PEX from the water meter to the various feeds and then branch off 1/2" PEX to the faucets? Does it increase the flow or will it reduce it? will it improve pressure?


texts: Uneven bathtub drain hole, can't screw in new drain

texts:
my old bathtub drain got corroded so I decided to replace it. I successfully took out the old drain, but the drain pipe underneath is not even, so when I screw in the new bathtub drain there are about 4 threads remaining on the left side, so it drips water. It's a bit hard to see in the photo, but the top left side is a bit lower than the bottom right. Any suggestions on how to handle this?

UPDATE: On my fourth try I got the bathtub drain to screw in properly. I screwed it in 1 thread at a time, checking each time for skipped threads and eventually it worked. It started out slanted, but evened out in the end.


texts: What's the maximum recommended temperature for your house while away?

texts:
I live in Florida, so I'm not really concerned at all about the coolness of the home in the winter. However, I'd obviously like to save as much energy as possible while gone for the day during the Spring/Summer by setting out Nest thermostat to the maximum safe temperature while away at work -- unfortunately, I'm having a hard time finding what this is.

I say safe because Florida is notoriously humid - I want to save money, but not at the expense of harboring mold behind the walls or something.


texts: how do I transition conduit through a half-inch OSB shed wall?

texts:
I'm running a 15 amp circuit to a small shed using underground 3/4" PVC conduit. I'm using an LB box to enter the side of the shed as shown in the picture below. The female end LB box protrudes about half an inch into the shed. The wall is only half inch OSB plus a very thin panel veneer.
I want to turn the conduit up and into a disconnect.  I was planning on using a junction box with the LB came through, but I suppose I could just use conduit to go all the way to the disconnect.
What would be the best way to do this?


texts:
What do people think of this method for excavating a crawl space:

http://www.mvtimes.com/news/2007/11/21/vacuum-excavator.php


texts:
I am wondering if I can extend this sump drain (about 4 foot long and ends 8-10 inches over the ground) through an underground PVC run about 30 feet (about a 4 foot drop from house to valley) to exit into the valley at the back of my property.

As you can see, there is a nice 6-8 inch deep trench about 3 feet long from years of this running and the previous owner really not taking care of it. There are a few concrete tiles tossed in there I am guessing to try and slow the erosion.

Is is OK to extend the sump drain and run it under ground about 30 feet before the PVC would come out of the ground and drain?


texts:
I have one unfinished room in my basement which holds the furnace and hot water tank, and I use it as a workshop and gym. I have block foundation and the concrete walls have this foam board mounted to it with these 1x2's it seems. My basement has been dry since I moved here 2 years ago (eastern Ontario, Canada).

I would like to cover this insulation in order to protect it from getting damaged, and I would possibly like to hang things from the wall. I am thinking plywood of some sort/thickness. My questions are as follows:

What is the best way to mount some sort of protection to act as a wall? What is the best material and thickness?
Should I screw into the block foundation or just mount it on the 1x2?
Should I add anything to the wall before mounting the plywood? vapour barrier?

I would appreciate any assistance or recommendations, I look forward to contributing to this community.

Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/7OyPy7Y

My pictures show no vapour barrier in the ceiling joists which I added after the photo was taken


texts: I have no lights in my bathroom and have two receptacles and the light in my bedroom that don't work. I replaced the gfci in my bathroom and it works, i have reset it too. The light in my closet works. The other outlets in my bathroom work.


texts:
After I spotted some water settling on patio, I removed some cement tiles and found a crack in the 16 year old slab of poured cement. Water was flowing up from beneath the slab. There's a little hill behind a retaining wall at the end of the patio.

The water is clear and odorless. I checked everywhere for possible leaking pipes, turn off water supply for 3 days, but the flow did not change.

I think it's ground water. What can I do?


texts: Should a gas water heater be shut down if the water main has to be turned off?

texts:
I have a brand new AO Smith 50gal gas water heater. Today there was a burst pipe from the cold spell we're having currently, so I had to turn off the water main to the house until the plumbers get here tomorrow.

With that, nobody had used any hot water all day so it should be full, but do I need to turn the water heater off until the water can be turned back on tomorrow to avoid any damage etc?


texts: How often do I need to replace the home water pressure regulator?

texts:
While having my plumber determine what to do about a leak in my water main (city water supply), he mentioned that I should probably replace my house water pressure regulator if it hasn't been replaced in the last five years or so. I don't understand why age matters.

He did a static pressure check and the measurement was 65 PSI. With a faucet open, it dropped to 35 PSI.

We checked the pressure on the landscape plumbing, which is unregulated, and it was 125 PSI, static.

I'm always leery of being upsold beyond what I need. Is there anything to his statement that a regulator over 5 years old  should be replaced? (He actually said 3 to 4 years old, I think, which is a red flag for BS, in my opinion.) I think this one is nearly 25 or 30 years old. Does the water pressure test suggest that it needs to be replaced?

If it should be replaced, it should probably be done while the main line is repaired, since it looks like the work will all be around the same section of pipe.

(My water is not very hard. by the way. I never find much in the way of deposits in any repairs I have made. I have replaced short sections of copper pipes a couple of times.)


texts: Circuit Breaker Trip - Identifying Culprit

texts:
A non-AFCI/non-GFCI circuit breaker tripped while I was away for a week.  Connected were a full size residential in the U.S. (18 year old) refrigerator, 2 powered off computers, and 1 powered on computer.

I attempted to reset the breaker and it immediately tripped again.  I could see a small spark in the breaker panel when I tried the reset.

I then unplugged the refrigerator and the 2 powered off computers (I didn't realize the 3rd computer was on this circuit) and reset the breaker again.  It held this time.

My refrigerator and 2 previously powered off computers now work fine.  The power supply on the previously running computer no longer functions.

I haven't previously seen a computer power supply on an idling computer trip a 20 amp circuit breaker.  Besides loading my refrigerator with food and waiting for this circuit to trip again, is there anything else I can do to check the computers and refrigerator?  I already pulled the outlet covers and things look ok.

Refrigerator:  Whirlpool ED25TEXHW00
Computer that was powered on:  600 watt power supply but probably only drawing 100 watts while I was away

Additional:  The 2 computers that survived were on a surge suppressor power strip.  The 1 that died was not.  The house is on a whole house surge suppressor.


texts: What type of screw is the most resistant to rust: galvanized, stainless steel, or deck screws?

texts:
How do the following screw types fare in an outdoor (wet) long-term application?

Galvanized screw:

Stainless steel screw:

"Deck" screw:


texts:
I was trying to mount something to a concrete wall and completely botched it. I had 4 drop-in anchors, so I took a hammer drill and some bits that were, by eye, pretty close to the diameter of the anchor, and made some holes for it.
Well eyeballing it turned out to be a HUGE mistake, the hole diameters were just slightly too small and  it cause the anchors to leak their lead (which, as I understand, is supposed to get pushed out by pressure to fill the irregularities in the concrete) into their own threaded screw holes. edit: actually that was just the inside of the anchors that didn't get pushed down far enough by the installation tool.

Now I've got 4 anchors stuck in the wall (one of them is still poking out a bit) that can't be removed, and the concrete has also become pitted from the attempts to insert them.

1) How do I fix this? I'm thinking of using a metal saw to take off the parts of the anchors that are poking out past the wall face, then spackling over or something. Seems simple enough but right now I don't trust my own judgement and want a second opinion.

2) How do I finish this? I was thinking of trying again a few inches further up, but the mounting is gonna have to support maybe up to 500lbs and I'm worried about the damage I may have done to the concrete below.

The anchors are 3/8" diameter and about 1" long.

edit: here's a pic of the damage

Those black pen marks are where I want to try again. It might be better to try again to the left but the concrete is thinner. I don't know if that matters. Any advice would be appreciated.


texts:
I am looking to run some speaker cable through my unfinished basement.
I will need 35 ft long cables for a couple of Technics SB-A10 speakers.  What gauge of cable will I need?  How is the gauge calculated?  How much noise should I expect with a 35 ft long cable?

Impedance: 8 ohm

Input power: 200 W

Crossover frequency: 3000 Hz–6000 Hz

Output sound pressure level: 91 dB/W (at/a 1 m)

Woofer cone type: 25 cm (10")

Midrange cone type, ferrofluid: 10 cm (4")

Tweeter, cone type, ferrofluid: 5.5 cm (2 - 1/8")

Dimensions (W x H x D): 360 x 733 x 265


texts: Is it legal to add a jumper wire to a conductor that is too short in a junction box?

texts:
I live in Sparks, Nevada, and the 2011 National Electrical Code applies to me. My work will be inspected when complete.

I am replacing a switch and have found that someone before me (accidentally?) sliced open the insulation on the hot wire for the switch and neglected to fix it.

The slice only goes down a few inches of the wire, so I am considering cutting this off and just adding a jumper wire to it to extend it the required three inches outside the box (there will be enough wire to add a nut). Is this legal (per NEC 2011)? Specifically I am unsure if this a violation of the amount of wire I have to have coming in to the box.

See picture below, the slice is visible in the hot wire. It only goes as far as you can see in the picture and is intact after that.

Edit: Or should I just wrap it in electrical wire rated for at least 120V? My understanding is this is legal because it is in a junction box.


texts: How far to put a prehung door in a rough opening?

texts: I've put in a prehung door before but the last one had a brick-mold on the exterior part of the frame and I just pushed it in until it was against the house. The prehung door I have to install now doesn't have a brick-mold, so how far do I put it into the rough opening? Should I just leave 1/2" sticking out on the inside so that the drywall will meet up even with it for trimming?


texts: What could be done to clean black staining from red brickwork?

texts:
I have recently purchased an old house (built in approximately 1900) in the United Kingdom as a renovation project.
The brickwork under the porch has been fairly well protected over the years and is still very clean. However, the brickwork above the porch and around the rest of the house has developed a black staining:

Would I be correct to assume that this staining is simply from rain?
In the coming weeks the house will have a scaffolding for other works and so I was hoping also to deal with this staining at this time.
Do you think it would be possible to restore the house brickwork to the original colour (as seen below the porch) and if so, what method(s) would be suitable to obtain this?
Thanks in advance


texts: Legality of hanging things outside your window?

texts:
I have been thinking of hanging something outside my window. It occurred to me though that there are building codes. I am in a private home of my own but wondered to what extent building codes apply.

Any thoughts?


texts: What wire is needed for a 400 Amp service between the mast and the meter?

texts:
I am upgrading to a 400 Amp service in Washington State. My power company is Mason County PUD 1. The AHJ is Washington State L&I. The panel I'm planning on using is the Siemens MC0816B1400RLTM. What size/type wires should I use between the mast head and the line side of the meter? How do I connect these wires to the power company's service wires? This is max 14' run (10' of mast, 2' on either end).
The Siemens spec sheet says the max wire on the line side of the meter is (1)600kcmil OR (2)350kcmil for the two hots and (1) 500kcmil OR (2) 250kcmil on the neutral. In their meter requirements, the power company says "Lugs must accept 350 MCM aluminum wire." They say this is the largest wire they carry. I just confirmed with them that they will have six service wires coming to me from the power pole.
I haven't been able to find a consistent answer to what wire I need. I'm thinking AL XHHW-2.
If there is some way I can join the power company's parallel lines into one, I think I would use 600 MCM for hot and 500 MCM for neutral. According to https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/xhhw-2/, 600 MCM is 385 amps at 90 C. Assuming I never use the full 400 Amps, does this work? What gizmo would I use to bond each of the two wires from the power company with my one wire that leads to the mast head?
Or should I continue their parallel runs through the mast all the way to the meter? Again sticking with AL XHHW-2, the same place says 4/0 is 205 Amps at 90 C. So, in parallel, does that make it 410 Amps? Is that sufficient? Or is it close enough that I'd be better off going with parallel 250 MCM? Again, what gizmo do I use to bond each of the six wires from the power company to one of my six going into my mast?
I had been planning on a 3" dia. mast. Is that sufficient? More than sufficient?


texts: How long should completely renovating a 6x12 bathroom by yourself take?

texts:
I want to level set expectations with my wife for a small bathroom renovation i want to tackle on my own.

considering all the materials and fixtures will be pre-purchased and sitting in the garage prior to start. how long should a  single man renovation take?

here is my thinking, let me know if i am off my rocker on any of these estimates.

.25 days remove double vanity, medicine mirror cabinet, toilet and tub
0.5 days demo walls (tile and Sheetrock)
.25 days deliver to the dump (2 trips)
.25 days put in 2 new spot lights in pre-existing ceiling
.25 days expand electrical to include new switch for spot lights
.25 days replace ventilation fan
0.5 days close walls with concrete board
0.5 days install new bath tub and connect drain
1.5 days tile walls
0.5 days tile floor and doorway saddle
.25 days install new toilet in same spot
.25 days install new double vanity and 2 new faucets
.25 days install finishing touches and clean up

am i too optimistic on the duration of these tasks?


texts: I have a combi boiler and since yesterday the radiators are getting really hot even when thermostat is turned right down

texts: Radiators getting hot even when thermostat is turned right down. Its a Worcester combined boiler


texts: How can I install an air conditioner in a window with a very deep exterior ledge?

texts:
Our NYC apartment building has very deep exterior ledges, extending around a foot beyond the window, but 2-3" below the window frame, so a window AC can't rest flat on it.  How do we appropriately brace/mount the AC? none of the standard mounting brackets will work, as they don't extend far enough out to reach over the ledge. We don't want to just prop it up on blocks, as everything I've read suggests this is illegal.
Any advice appreciated!


texts: Can I install cellulose insulation without a blower machine?

texts: I've purchased a few bags of loose fill cellulose insulation from the local hardware store (GreenFiber brand). How will the insulation work if I don't put it through the machine to fluff it and force it through a tube? Will the insulation be compressed a bit so that I won't get the coverage that the bag says, but its R value per inch should be about the same? Can I consider its R-value to be something close to the "dense-pack" R-value?


texts: How can I tell if it is safe to clip these wires?

texts:
We recently bought a little old house with a detached garage that had been converted into a study or studio. There's a great sagging bundle of cables running from the main house to the studio. Some are obviously phone lines, some look like coax cable. None are obviously power lines, but there's definitely electricity in the studio.

We don't have a landline and when we set up our cable they ran a new cable line, and I assume that if we ever wanted a landline they'd start that from scratch, too. So I'd really like to cut these cables, but I obviously don't want to go out with my wire cutter and snip the power line.

Where the power lines come into the main junction box from the street they run through porcelain insulators. I haven't figured out where the power for the studio actually runs.

I've tried to trace them to their respective sources, but at various points they've been painted over and it is really hard to sort out where each wire is coming from or going to.

So my question is: how do I ensure that I won't electrocute myself before I cut any particular wire?


texts: Can a structural ridge beam be used in a hip roof design?

texts:
If so this would place the ridge beam somewhere in the middle of the roof, how would you provide support for the ridge beam in this instance?, could you support it by an internal wall?

This is for a single story house.

Side question, are ridge beams only used for exposed roofs?

thanks


texts: Why is my new and newly stained deck showing all dirt and grime that doesn't come off with soap and water?

texts: I built a deck about a month ago. It was primed and stained with a solid stain. I am noticing that all the shoe prints from the dirt are showing up. I have tried watering it down, adding soap, and even scrubbing it with a brush but it does not come out. Should I be using a sealant?


texts: Will calcium chloride still work under a coffee filter?

texts: I have some disposable paper coffee filters, shallow glass jars and canning lids. I can use the ring part of the lids to affix the coffee filter over the jar's mouth. I am thinking of putting calcium chloride in a jar like this to prevent it from spilling or creating dust - but will it still be able to dehumidify effectively? Will moist air be able to get through the coffee filter?


texts: Should I replace the neutral wire that I accidentally cut in a Romex cable when installing a new outlet?

texts:
So I'm installing a new outlet in my home. There's an existing Romex cable that goes up the wall into my attic above the new outlet. When I was stripping the wire to go in the box, I accidentally severed the neutral white wire.

I was able to get the sheathed wire into the junction box by about an inch and reattach the white wire with a twist-on cap inside the box. Is this OK or do I need to replace the entire cable?


texts: Does anybody know how to take off this kind of water valve I don't where to unscrew this water valve?


texts:
I'm used to pait cans where the lid can be simply pried off using a screwdriver. However this one seems different:

How do I open it?

There are no instructions on the can itself.


texts: Why is my toilet leaking around the base even after a seal replacement?

texts:
We have a toilet that was in the mid price range. When it was originally installed by professionals it didn't appear to leak for a few days. Then slowly I noticed dampness around the edge of the toilet base, which grew.

The plumbers came back and reset it. Same issue. They then reset it at my expense with a different type of seal, not the wax ring but a rubber gasket thing. Same issue. Once more they reset with a homemade wax ring made from 2 regular rings cut and warmed and sealed together. Same damn issue.

Money is tight and I gave up for a while, simply cleaning the floor often. How can I fix this?


texts: Can I install a single shut off valve to turn off both hot and cold waters in my apartment?

texts:
I am doing bathroom renovation and need to install main shut-off valves for the apartment. Previous owner just have two shut-off valves sticking out of the wall below tub spout which is ugly. The plumber said he can move them to be under the sink.

As the space is limited under the sink, I am thinking is there a valve that with a single switch and can shut off both hot and cold water? Anyway if I ever want to shut off the water supply to the apartment I would like to do that for both hot and cold water instead of just one of them.


texts: Is it safe to mount a 65" TV to the wall using 1 and 1/2 inch lag bolts instead of 2 and 1/2 inch lag bolts?

texts: We are trying to mount a 65" TV in the basement. The studs in our wall are 1 and 1/2 inches deep, and behind that is concrete. The wall mount came with 2 and 1/2 inch lag bolts, but we really do not want to drill into the concrete. Can we buy 1 and 1/2 inch lag bolts and will it be safe to put up?


texts:
My house was built in the 50s and has the same wall construction described here: Is this plaster over gypsum wallboard?
Does anyone know how I can easily cut through it.  I've been using my sturdy drywall saw, which works, but is slow and arduous.
Thank you.


texts: The gutter on the outside of my house I purchased needs a end cap replaced.  However it's more of a square than any of the gutter caps at local shops.  It seems like a strong type of tape that was used before.  Any ideas what I could use? I'm not home at the moment but I think if I remember correctly the size was 6" wide by 5" high.


texts: Why did they hammer nails in half way and bent them over to secure supports?

texts: In my 1950s house they hammered nails in half way and bent them over to secure the supports to the beam.  Why was this technique used?


texts: Will heat set off a smoke detector placed in an attic?

texts:
A heating furnace is in a partially floored attic. used for storage only  We have
placed a smoke detector above the furnace and wonder if the heat in the summer would
set it off.


texts: Lock can be opened with credit card even when deadlatch is fully depressed

texts:
I just installed a standard deadlatch, very much like this:

The problem is, it can be opened from the outside with a credit card.

Of course, a properly installed deadlatch should make this impossible. When the deadlatch is depressed, the latch should not be able to retract.

But when I hold the deadlatch down with my thumb and wiggle the latch, the latch eventually retracts.

It has nothing to do with how the strike plate is installed or positioned on the door. I can do it without ever involving the door or strike plate. I can just use my hands. It's very repeatable. Just hold the deadlatch down, press and wiggle the latch, and it retracts, every time.

Does this mean I have a faulty deadlatch? How could a deadlatch malfunction in this way?

UPDATE: I have to use a latching lock for this door. That's part of the users' requirements. So a deadbolt is not an option.
Covering the gap between the door and frame might be a good idea for preventing the credit card move. However, what I'd really like to know is how a deadlatch could malfunction in this way to begin with.


texts: Good way to clean Stainless Steel Railing

texts:
I have a stainless steel fence in my garden. Its near the sea and constantly looks dirty and old. I think the steel is a Stainless 316 as opposed to 304.

What cost effective cleaner could I use or what techniques could be the best to clean the numerous posts.

Also, Is there anything that could preserve the stainless steel from future build-up?


texts: How to remove insulation fasteners from concrete?

texts:
I'm pulling a bunch of insulation from my basement to get ready to finish it, and have found it's bolted to the concrete walls. I've been able to google my way to identifying the bolts as Hilti X-SW 30 fasteners (https://www.hilti.com/direct-fastening/insulation-fastenings/r66753).

I managed to pry one out with a claw hammer, but naturally this damaged the surrounding concrete. I tried a second one and it managed to support all 200lbs of my bodyweight without budging.

So, I suppose I'm really asking two questions; How do I remove these things with minimal damage? And assuming some damage is unavoidable, what's the right way to plug the resulting holes and fix the damage?

If it's relevant, my plan after this is two coats of waterproofing paint, followed by XPS rigid foam insulation.


texts: Is the ground wire connection grounding all switches in this box?

texts:
I am installing a Z-wave switch (I have done others), but this one is different.  There are three switches in this junction box.  However, only one switch is grounded (not one I am installing), and the switch I am adding needs to be grounded.

The switch that is grounded appears to go into a 6 slot wire port with other copper wires.  Does anyone know if this is grounding the entire box?  The other wires are painted, but if scratched they are copper.

Worst case scenario I can jump the ground over to make switch work, but was hoping to understand the wiring a bit more if possible.  Here is picture (top left is the ground coming from switch.

Hopefully this is enough info, but if not please let me know.

Thank You


texts: Which wire is the ground in this light box?

texts:
So I'm trying to fit a new light fixture that's got the usual black, white, and copper/green wires coming out from the light itself. However, when I took off the old light and looked at the wires in the electrical box in the ceiling, the black and white are self-evident (see photo), but I cannot figure out where the copper/green wire is for the ground:

Maybe the previous light didn't make use of a ground?

Or maybe the ground is that there's a mess of wires that are the third set in the photo, besides the aforementioned black and white ones. This mess of wires is a mix of black and white, all coming together into a twist-on wire connector.

BTW I read this one and some related questions, but didn't figure it out... Can I safely ground a light fixture if the ceiling box has two hot and one neutral wire (no ground wire)

Edit: To the request for better/closer photo, I've added a zoomed-in version of the photo above, hope it helps.


texts: Is connecting a 5 A PLUG into a 10/20 A socket for electronics pose a problem

texts:
Most of my electronic appliances are 5 A based, this includes my Desktop PC, external hard-drives, Laptop and TV but the socket I have are 10A/20 A one. Could there be a problem connecting the 5 A plugs into these 10 A/20 A socket ? I live in India where power supply is rated at 230 V Ac/50 Hz.

Additional Info -

The socket is a 5 pin 10A/20A Anchor (a brand) socket.


texts: Should I insulate my pizza oven between the firebrick base and concrete?

texts:
I am building a pizza oven for my garden. The 'table' will be standard red brick and concrete slabs to form the work top.
On top of the work top, I was intending to lay a layer of firebrick, and place the oven on top.
Research shows firebricks conduct heat and now I am worried if the fire bricks (the base of the oven) get hot, they will transfer into the concrete slabs (the work top).
My questions is, would fire cement insulate and as such protect the concrete worktops or would I need some insulation between the firebrick and concrete worktop?


texts: Recovery from a trashing: exterminator first or disaster recovery cleaners first?

texts:
So, as part of the project that is my (inherited) house in southwestern Missouri, the house finally has been dejunked from the human-inflicted disaster that happened to it. (Worse tenants than us were involved.  I will leave it at that.)  However, the state it was left in also demands a thorough (disaster recovery thorough) cleaning, and also left the place open for four-legged, furry, squeaky tenants, as was discovered during the dejunking:

So, should I call in the disaster-recovery cleaners first to give the place a thorough scrubbing and then have all the squeakiness removed by the exterminator, or the exterminator first to evict the mice before the cleaners go to work?


texts: Preventing push-spring drain stoppers from getting stuck

texts:
I have dealt with several sink drains that have a spring-loaded stopper like the one shown here.  It is designed to be pushed down to stop the drain, and pushed again to pop up and unstop the drain.  The problem is that when it is not frequently used it will tend to get stuck in the stopped position.  This occurs even when no debris is encumbering the mechanism.

The only way I have found of fixing these when they get stuck that way is to unscrew them from the drain and begin to jimmy or disassemble them until the spring returns the stopper into the unstopped condition.  At that point I toggle it a few times until it does so reliably and without sticking, and then return it to service.  But if it is not frequently used it will invariably get stuck again.

Are there any means of reliably preventing these from getting stuck in the stopped position?


texts: How do I correctly measure this basement window for a replacement?

texts:
I have three of these metal-framed basement windows which I would like to replace but I am unsure of what dimension I should measure and use for the replacements.

Initially I measured the outside dimension (32 1/2" x 16 1/4") but on closer inspection, it looks like the metal is just folded up against the concrete.  This leads me to think I should use the inside dimension (30 1/2" x 14").

What is the correct way to measure for replacement windows in this case?

EDIT: Included some outside pictures


texts: Wiring: Replace light switch with GCL switch/outlet

texts:
Is this the correct wiring to replace an old light switch with a GCL outlet/switch.
The Left is the existing wiring, the right is what I think it should be.
Did i get this right?


texts: Why nut with gasket on tile cutter wheel?

texts:
I just purchased this replacement cutter wheel for a Sigma tile cutter:

You're supposed to put the bolt in the device with the wheel so the bolt acts as the axis. My 2 questions are:

What's the purpose of the gasket on the nut?
Which side am I supposed to put the gasket on? Facing the wheel, or facing away from the wheel?


texts: I just got a Radon mitigation system installed and it is very loud, much louder than the AC unit that it sits next to (fan is installed outside). The housing of the fan after only a couple of hours runtime is also very hot. Not hot enough to burn when touched but hot enough that you can't keep your hand on it for very long. Is this normal? if not, what could be causing this. The contractor that installed it doesn't seem to think this is an issue, but I'm concerned of a fire risk as well how long can the fan run as hot as that before it burns out the motor? something is obviously making it work way too hard. I would love any help or feedback.


texts: What is the best "Tropical Fish Room" insulation?

texts:
I am enclosing half my garage with what might be called a greenhouse to raise tropical fish. I was thinking of building studded walls inside my garage using
treated 2 X 4's and 2" styrofoam insulation and then wrapping both the inside and outside of each wall with plastic to prevent air flow. Picture a box built within the garage not attached to the garage. 4 walls and a top!!


texts: What are some permanent shower shelf options?

texts: I have found shower caddies and suction cup add-ons, but I want to add shelves to my shower surround that are permanent.  I haven't had much lucking finding anything.  What are my options, and where do I get them?


texts:
I bought a dimmer leviton decora
6672 sureslide. On the box I see next capacity 150W LED/CFL
600W Incandescent. Also on on the box I see that it can be used with halogen bulbs. What is the capacity for halogen bulbs?


texts: How do I insulate space in loft to create music studio

texts:
I have 3 DIY created rooms in my large live/work studio/artist loft. They are made with 2x4 and 2x6, framing with drywall walls and plywood ceiling.

The apt has 14' 7" ceilings so we just have enough room for the 6' tall upper level. I'm currently framing in these upper walls. The hope is that I can turn this upper space into a great little music studio with drum kit, amps, keyboards, etc.

How can I best insulate this space so that it's quiter than it is now for my roommates (I have the drums up there already :-) ) and its especially quite for my neighbors. The apt walls are mostly drywall  Side to side between concrete pillars and the floors and ceilings are both concrete.

Also, per the buildings charter (supposedly, at least) I have complete lee way to construct within the space.

Plan is now to buy some large foam and put the amps on blankets per this question

My neighbor keeps complaining about my music. How to soundproof my apartment?


texts: Adding new joists to old deck: lumber size mismatch

texts:
Very new to this forum, forgive me for any mistakes.

I am replacing the decking on an existing deck at my house, and the new decking is a composite PVC cap stock product. The old decking was cedar, and the joist spacing was 24". That is beyond spec for the new decking, so I am adding a 2x8 joist in between for 12" spacing.

The problem I'm having is that the old 2x8 joists are 7" actual width, whereas the new joists are 7.25". This causes the new joists to be proud of the old ones, including the rim joists. I don't think I can just hang them and then run the decking over uneven joists.

Has anyone seen this before? Can anyone comment on why the old joists are small? Could that just be due to shrinkage?


texts: What size wire and breaker should I use for a small one bedroom cottage?

texts: Have a small one bedroom cottage. I need to install a subpanel in it. I have a two hundred amp panel 30 feet away. The only things I will power in the cottage are two can lights, six outlets, small window unit and a small refrigerator. What gauge wire should I run to the subpanel? Also what size breaker as the main should I use in the sub?


texts: What license/certifications are appropriate for mold remediation firms?

texts:
I am looking for someone to clean up mold in my attic, and I have been advised to find someone who is licensed in the area of mold.  I’ve checked HomeAdvisor and BBB, but it’s not clear to me who actually has a mold license for my state (Illinois) or if such a license even exists.

How do I go about finding out who, in Illinois, licenses such professionals or even what credentials to ask for?  Are they licensed by City? State? County?  Is there a registry?

As an aside,  How do I find someone to do this work?


texts: Is is safe to only use a gfci with no ground wires downstream?

texts: If you use a GFCI outlet and the rest of the outlets downstream don't have a ground wire attached, are they still considered grounded and are they safe?


texts: Can I safely ground a light fixture if the ceiling box has two hot and one neutral wire (no ground wire)

texts:
Checking for dupes, I saw this question, but the situation appears different as my box is metal, among other things.

I'm fairly new to electrical projects, so bear with me. I recently installed a new light fixture in a ceiling connection in a new building.

The fixture has black, white, and exposed ground wires, and came with instructions to:

Connect the black wire to the black wire
Connect the white wire to the white wire
Connect the ground wire to the green screw, and then to the ground wire.

So I checked that the power was live on a meter, then re-metered after cutting it to ensure it was safe, and proceeded to connect the wires as described, using the white, black, and brown wires in the ceiling.

When put the power back on, the light turned on.  But when I hit the light switch, I got a fireworks display and tripped the circuit.  After some research, it would seem that the "brown" wire that I assumed was the ground (by process of elimination) was more likely meant to be red (damn you, burnt sienna!), and was in fact a second "hot" wire, probably for a ceiling fan, or maybe a 240V device.  I'd connected the second "hot" wire to the exposed ground on the lamp, which was... not awesome.

So, I reconnected the black and white wires, and since there's no ground in the box, just connected the lamp ground to the green screw on the crossbar that's now screwed to the metal box.

I get that my worst initial mistake was not testing the voltage on each individual wire before connecting the fixture.  And I get to apply that next time, since I'm not dead.

But here's my question:  Is the lamp still grounded, given that it's screwed to a bar in a metal box, or does the lack of an actual ground wire in the box mean I can't ground it?

If I can't ground it, how concerned should I be when changing the bulb?

EDIT:  Some clarification points -

The building is very new.  I think it was completed in 2008
The box in the ceiling (more like a cylinder, really) is metal, but I don't know if it's connected to some kind of ground wire behind it, as it's attached to the ceiling and I didn't try to remove it.
There were three insulated wires in the cylinder: White, black, and brownish red
The black and red both were "hot" on a meter; the white was not


texts: Grounding a receptacle when there is no ground wire?

texts:
I am replacing old receptacles with new tamper-proof ones.

I opened one in my basement and realized it wasn't currently grounded, the electrical housing is a real mess and has a copper "ground" wire going across it in the back with no way to connect it to the receptacle.

So, how do you ground something in this case?

1) Buy some wire at hardware store, cut the ground wire, attach the 2 cut ends and the purchased wire together with a wire connector (marrette)?

2) Buy some wire at hardware store and just connect the ground on the receptacle to the electrical housing?

What are my options?
(wish I could post a picture)


texts: Bathroom Sink Handles - What are they called?

texts: One of the "handles" on my sink is broken (see photos below) and I would like to find a replacement part but I don't know what they are called in order to search for the right part.  They have threads and simply screw into the faucet so replacement will be a breeze if I can find the parts.  Any help with what they are called would be greatly appreciated.


texts:
I have an Indesit dryer. I pulled it from wall whilst still plugged in and the wires inside have come loose. I'm not sure which wire connects where.

It is a yellow box labelled d.e.m f3cc73002v5 inside dryer and there are 3 wires loose: blue, brown, and green/yellow. How should I reconnect them?


texts: My 5.8kw ceramic hob has been wired into a 30 amp junction box with the electric ignition cable of the old gas hob and then wired into the cooker switch with .6 mm cooker cable. Is this correct wiring?


texts: In long run, Which is the best way to connect a flex duct to a Take Off Start Collar?

texts:
Please, Please vote up to a right answer.
I found in the internet, Connecting a flex duct  to take off start collar/ connect still a debatable,
I need an answer from people of this community. Thanks!
Edited : I found few of these options available. I am not sure if there could be more way.

Attach flex to take off, then zip ties to secure and finally foil tape
Attach flex to take off, then use Gear clamp to secure and finally foil tape
Attach flex to take off, then mastic sealant from inside of flex duct and then zip ties or clamp finally foil tape if needed

Flex :

Take off start collar :


texts: Should I Ground a Generator Powering an UPS?

texts:
My inverter generator's manual states that "If this generator will be used only with cord and plug-connected equipment, National Electric Code does not require that the unit be grounded."

I am not sure if plugging an UPS (supplying power to a computer and other small electronics, including a Wireless router) falls into this category. The UPS in question is the APC NS1080G.

Generator-->UPS-->Electronic Devices. Generator doesn't touch the house wiring. As for the devices, connected to the outside there'd only be the coax for the internet cable modem (which is also filtered thru the UPS).

Am I OK to power this without grounding?

PS: If this makes any difference, total power draw at the UPS averages < 60W.


texts: Installing hot water recirculating pump on a tankless water heater

texts:
I'm trying to see if I can install a hot water recirculating pump on my current setup. My understanding is that the pump sits just before the hot water line that goes into the building, but since there is an expansion tank, I'm not sure if I can still do it.
Please see the photos here.


texts: frigidaire glasstop stove element turns off and on during use

texts: Just replaced the element with a brand new one. Using the new element for the first time, it heats up and cools down constantly, is this normal or whats going on with it? Could only find one other comment about this problem and it didnt help me. Only the new element does this , not the other three.


texts: What's the trick to hanging overhead light fixtures with only two hands?

texts:
Whenever I perform this task, there always comes a point where I need two hands to do something with the fixture, and don't have a free hand to hold the lamp up in the air. I don't think it's safe to let heavy lamps hang from their wires, but that's always what I end up doing. So, what's the trick to holding up the lamp with one hand and needing two more hands to twist wire nuts and turn screws and whatnot?

I usually put all my hardware in my shirt pocket before I go up the ladder, so at least I don't have to go back down with the lamp hanging from the wires, but what other tricks might work for this task? Getting a second person obviously solves the issue, but please answer as if that's not possible.


texts:
I have an industrial exhaust fan venting heat from the top of a stairwell. It is a CentriMaster ModelPRN PRN110 with specification sheet here: http://www.acmefan.com/InformationFiles/ModelInformation/OLDLiterature/ModelPRN.PDF
I'm installing a vent at the bottom of the stairs for make-up air, and have a question about the duct size.

From the 'dimension data' (p. 6), the fan ceiling cut is 16 x 16" (A), but it says "Duct size 10". Does this mean I should use a 10" duct for the make-up air, or a 16 x 16" square?

From the 'performance data' (p. 5), the PRN110 has RPMs 2477 through 4464 with CFM 600 through 1090 at .000", or CFM 578 at 1.000".

What are the inch rows in that table (i.e. .000", .125", etc.)?
How do I determine the RPM (what row of the table do I read)?
How do I determine the CFM (what column of the table do I read)?
Once I know the CFM when the fan is on, how do I know what size passive duct to install for the make-up air? It seems like just using an equal size duct (10" or 16x16") should be sufficient.

I'll be using an electric-open default-close damper tied to the same 120V thermostat that drives this fan.


texts:
When I made some concrete flooring (my first time doing it) I finished the surface while there was still bleed water (I didn't know it better back then). Now 2 months later in a few areas there is delamination problems on the surface, it is mostly thin areas of a few milimeters.

Now, after I remove all of this, how can I fix it and make it bond properly (since it is only a few milimeters deep). I thought about making a slurry of cement and fine sand (1:1) with bonding additive, but I'm not sure if it is the best course of action.

Oh, I'm in Brazil, and here we don't carrry a huge selection of toppings, overlays, self-leveling compounds and such. The ones that we do have are expensive as hell, so I'm reduced to making my own with with basic components: cement, sand, thinset (rigid and flexible), a few concrete additives (for bonding, expanding, etc), etc.


texts: Preparation for laminate floor went south

texts:
So I've setup few laminate floors so far, and I'm no expert at this but this is what I like to do in my spare time.

So I've got a condo in which there were carpets and I teared out those and all what comes with it. But I've uncovered something that I haven't seen before and so I don't know how to proceed. If found that the ending of the floor is not even as the rest of the floor, it's a bit lower. And this is where I wanted to put the reducer to finish off the laminate flooring.

Just for you to get an idea what I'm talking about here are some photos :

I've put a wooden stick so you can spot how it lowers down. The floor ending is about 5-7 mm lower than the rest of the floor.

What do I do now?


texts: Low dynamic hot water pressure throughout the house

texts:
I recently bought my first home, and the first thing we noticed is that the dynamic hot water pressure is pretty low compared to the cold water pressure.  I purchased a water pressure gauge and found that the static hot water pressure is identical to the cold water static water pressure (about 95 PSI).  When I turn on a cold tap, the dynamic cold water pressure reads at about 85 PSI, which is totally cool.  When I do the same for the hot water, it drops waaay waaay lower.

When I attached a hose to my water heater to try to flush it, the water pressure was amazing, and the water was perfectly clear.  So it doesnt appear to have a sediment problem.

Basically this results in a low hot water flow rate for the entire house.  The water heater (probably near the end of life) is a 40 gallon gas heater.  Any idea what might be causing this?  Anyway I can try to fix this with out having to buy a new water heater or call a plumber?


texts: Is my circuit breaker box grounded? If not, can it be?

texts: I recently bought a house that was built in 1960.  During the inspection, I was told that the majority of outlets weren't grounded.  However, it appears a few are such as in the bathroom. How do I determine if my circuit breaker box is grounded?  I had an electrician come out and he said it wasn't.  Then he proceeded to tell me that he couldn't ground my fuse box and each of my outlets would need to be rewired.  Somebody else told me that this doesn't sound right.  I have read a lot on the internet and not sure what to do next?


texts: How would I wire a glass stove top with white black and bare wire to 2 black and 1 white wire coming out of the wall?

texts:
How would I wire up a range stove top with 1 white, 1 black, and bare ground wire.... to a junction box having 2 black wires that are hot, and 1 white common wire coming out of the junction box??

KitchenAid 36 Inch Wide Built-In Electric Cooktop
Model: KCES556HBL


texts:
I just had a Schluter®-KERDI-DRAIN installed in the shower.

After a few weeks it's been working fine.

Out of curiosity I unscrewed the grate to see the hair situation and only found a few clumps hanging on the pipe.

Do I need a hair catcher for this drain?

If so, which would you recommend? Designer Drains sells hair catchers, however I haven't been able to find other products or reviews.

That gives me a feeling that this particular drain doesn't need a hair catcher. Although I'd hate to be wrong in a few months or years.


texts: Is my bathroom project prohibited due to a low ceiling height?

texts: We would like to install a half bath in our finished basement in Colorado. The issue that I seem to have is that the ceilings are short at only 73". My understanding is that code requires the ceilings to be 80" in front of the fixtures. We can't do anything about the ceiling height, so does this mean that a bathroom wouldn't be an option in our basement?


texts: Can you lay hardwood on concrete floor using mortar and grout?

texts:
Is it possible to lay wood planks on tile mortar and grout in between with 1/8" gaps, like you would tile. I have a concrete slab sub floor that is all above ground level. I live in North Central Arizona. We have a good rainy season during the summer, but are high and dry for most the year.

The only thing that I think could go wrong would be the boards warping and separating from the mortar beneath, or perhaps shrinking and leaving gaps in the mortar. I guess I wouldn't mind cracks or gaps; those are easily filled, but warping would be a problem. I want to use 3/4" or 1" heartwood pine boards that I can get locally. I would be able to let them sit in my garage for a few months or even a year if needed.

I want to try mortar for the look, but also for maintenance. The gaps should make replacing a board easier.


texts: Run directly from the meter to house, no secondary panel?

texts:
I want to run directly from the meter to house, no secondary panel:
Would the following portion of this answer here apply to my situation?

To feed a 100 ampere secondary panel 200 ft. from the main panel, you'll want to use 1 AWG copper or 2/0 aluminum conductors. This is large enough to safely carry 100 amperes, and to maintain power quality over the distance.
NOTES:
You'll want to feed the panel using 4 conductors (hot, hot, neutral, ground).
You'll have to isolate the grounded (neutral) conductors and bus bar in the secondary panel.
You'll have to install an adequate grounding electrode system at the outbuilding, and bond the grounding conductor to it.


texts:
I am new to DIY Stack Exchange as well as home renovations in general so I will do my best to be concise and provide adequate clarity for my question, without sounding overtly inexperienced.

I had a contractor install some new wood floors in my house awhile back, and they left pretty large gaps around the floor ducts. Because of this, the old registers no longer fit as there is now a gap between the register and the edge of the hardwood floor.

The duct size is 2" x 12", but the overall size of the gap the floor provides is 3 7/8" x 15". The subfloor "hole" is less than this but the new wood floor recedes further than the subfloor.

Are there floor vents that will fit this (seemingly) unconventional size? Is this even an unconventional situation to size a floor vent for? Anything I find isn't exceeding 13.5" total (top face) width or 3" depth.


texts:
Here is my current situation:

There used to be a wall running between two rooms here; with a heat vent on the top side room and what looks like two cold air returns on the other. The issue is, with the wall gone, these have just been in the middle of the room next to each other for years.

The heat vent on the left has been moved closer to the wall, on the right. This was fairly straightforward.

My question now is, what should I do with the returns?

Would very bad things happen if I close them off? (This is one of 2 other returns upstairs, the closest one being about 15' away in the hallway).

Part of the "rightside" return extends into the joist cavity where I've moved the heat. I could open that up and have it pull air from that cavity, though the hole would be about 1/4 the size of the current one; so much less airflow back to the furnace, but still better than nothing. Though it'd be about 1'-2' away from the heat on the floor, so not sure if that'll be an issue as well.

Update:

Been doing some more reading and I'm going to look into moving those returns to the opposite wall.

If I move it beside the supply register then the hot air that comes out will just move a few feet back into the intake and at that point I may as well just close them both off since it won't be doing much to distribute heat or circulate the air.

If I close the returns then there may be an issue with the balance of air leaving vs entering the furnace, circulation in that room, and the furnace pulling air from random crevices.


texts: Auto-cleaning room (CIP for the ground?)

texts:
In breweries, we used CIP (clean in place) to cleanin and sanitize vessel.

Here, I have a room (a production room for beverages) with slope on the ground and a gutter all room long because I have to clean it lot of times. Did you think it would be possible to make a water circuit with tiny hole on them in order to make the water flow on the whole room ground?

Did you already saw this? Do you think it could be made of too tricky?

Thank you


texts: Bathroom Faucet: Identification of Cartridge Replacement

texts:
I have a very nice faucet that needs new cartridges but have been unable to find the manufacture of this unit to source out the correct replacement.

Does anyone here know how may have made this and where I might source these replacements?

Thanks


texts: How to properly install tongue and groove plywood subfloor?

texts:
I'm doing a remodel and can't seem to find the proper method for installing the tongue and groove plywood subfloor over joists. I mean, I think I pretty much understand how to do it but there are a few details I'm missing still.

On the first sheet down, does the tongue or groove go towards the wall? Pretty sure it's groove based on what Bob Vila shows on TV
What adhesive should I be using to attach the plywood to the joists? (Be specific)
Nails or screws? And exactly what kind?
Where are expansion gaps required? Everyone says to leave a 1/8" expansion gap but they never say where that gap should be
How tight should the T&G be? Does it need to be glued or anything?


texts: Is it worth it to replace T1-11 siding just to install house wrap?

texts:
I'm having some siding repairs done by contractors. When they took the siding sheet out, they found out that my house has no house wrap between the frame/wood and the T1-11 siding sheet. There was some rotten wood under the siding, and the 2 windows on the wall don't have window flashing.

One of the guys said that they would never install siding sheets without the house paper. They told me that their boss looked the project over and wants to offer me a discounted rate to reside the whole wall since the building hadn't been wrapped originally and that side of the house gets the most weather (this is true).

Is residing the entire to install the house paper worth it?
Are they just trying to upsell me?

Most of the wall's siding looks good, except for the rotten part that needed repair. The house was built in 2000.

I'm doing a siding repair because it's cheaper. I don't know much about home repairs. Some insight would be appreciated.

Thank you


texts:
A Florida AC-only storage building is equally divided sections each with:

a single hallway to provide access to storage units
3 doors (25 feet apart) provide building access into one of the hallways
each section is designed the same as the others
an AC handler is mounted in the hallway ceiling near the door and a thermostat

The design includes an electronic controller (one single-board computer and electronic relays) to signal for:

cooling (Yellow wire)
fan (Green wire).

Decision point: The relays can be placed either:

proximal to the computer: requiring thermostat wiring to be run to the computer
proximal to the each air handler: requiring wiring to be run between air handler and the computer

What are the questions & considerations that must be thought-out before making a decision as to where to locate the relays?


texts: Electric range burner functions erratically

texts:
I have a Kenmore electric range, model 790.94344700. I don't know how old it is; it came with the house.

One of the 9" burners has been driving me insane. It's finicky to get to the temperature I want to begin with. It's a single, standard burner, not one of the power boil, simmer, or dual size burners. Frequently it will unexpectedly jump to high heat and incinerate whatever I was cooking, even though I obviously didn't set it to high heat. Sometimes it will not turn off even though I completely turned it off, and all I can really do is flip the breaker or keep rotating it back and forth to the off position until it turns off. I also noticed just now, while moving the unit to begin inspection, that the burner was slightly warm and I could see the element faintly glowing even though I haven't used the stove in many hours and it was turned off (the "in use" indicator was off as well), so that's awesome.

My guess is that the temperature regulator in the switch has sufficiently corroded or become fouled and thus sticks, or the switch is broken in some other way. However, I don't know for sure or how to verify this. I also don't know what parts to get or where to get it in terms of replacing it.

Any advice?


texts: Will any thickness of Kingspan K118 do for an existing wall in my house?

texts:
The wall is in a 45 year old house that has standard UK cavity walls (red-brick on the outside, cavity, concrete blocks on the inside). Kooltherm K118 Insulated Plasterboard is what I'm thinking about.
Kingspan building regulation's page shows a target W/m²·K figure for the wall type. I'm in Scotland and for an existing heated home, 0.30 W/m²·K applies.
On the the product page it says:

As part of our Kooltherm 100 range, it provides a level of performance that is unrivaled in the world of rigid thermoset insulation materials with a thermal conductivity of just 0.018 W/mK across all thicknesses.

So (help me here) 0.018 is a lot less than 0.30, and it says "any thickness", so I could choose their thinnest sheets: 32.5mm and still be compliant with the regulations, right?
Maybe I'm getting lost in W/mK vs W/m²K..


texts: What are the pros and cons of adding a vapor barrier behind shower backer board?

texts:
After much research, I have a lot of conflicting advise about the need to add a vapor barrier before installing the backer (hardy / cement) board for my bathroom shower.
The "expert" at Home Depot, and another guy on youtube seem to think this is a very good idea, and even suggest sealing it with roofing tape.  (The guy on Youtube tapes it directly to the sill of tub.)
However, when I asked about the tape and how far down I should go at Lowes, they told me they'd never hear of anyone doing that, and that it didn't seem like a good idea.   Likewise, Ask This Old House only recommends putting down caulking on the sill before applying the backer board, and then again after before adding tile, and then caulking a 3rd time under the tiles before grouting.
Should I add a vapor barrier between the frame and the cement board?  Why or why not?


texts: PIR motion sensor interference by nearby CFL

texts:
I have a Passive Infrared Motion Detector (this one) in my walk-in closet that turns on the light when someone walks in.  This setup has been working fine for many years.

Outside of the closet is my wife's make-up area that was illuminated by a 75W incandescent ceiling light controlled by an on/off switch.  No electronics here.

Because the 75W bulb was not bright enough, I replaced it with a 42W Compact Fluorescent Light whith a 150W equivalency rating.  Now, when she walks into the closet when the CFL on, the light in the closet stays off.  She has turn off the CFL for the motion sensor to work.  When she turns the CFL back on, the light in the closet eventually times out like normal.

I cannot replace the CFL with a 150W incandescent bulb, since the bulb fitting is rated 100W max and 150W equivalent LEDS are too expensive (and big).

Any ideas?


texts: Are dishwasher overfill protection floats adjustable?

texts: Dishwasher leaks. It is practically level but slopes 1 degree toward the door. Owner's manual labels overfill protection float in the diagram but does not mention how to use it. Are these floats adjustable? If so, is it possible to use it to regulate water level?


texts: Will a horizontal 2x4x16 sag with only compressive force on it?

texts:
In brief - I want to use a 2x4 to resist the tension put on trellis posts ~16ft apart, rather than the other two options.

I'm building a grape trellis with upright 4x4s connected by high tensile wire. As with any wire setup, like a long wire fence, you usually need to brace the ends to avoid leaning. I'm thinking I can just run a 16ft 2x4 between the posts at the top, using brace pins to attach to the posts. This 2x4 wont really hold any load, as that will be held by the high tensile wire. The 2x4 is only there to resist the tension force that the wire puts on the main 4x4 posts, turning it into a compressive force on the 2x4.

Can a 2x4x16 even make that span given it's own load? And if so, is that compressive force (it should be straight and level) going to force it to sag?

FWIW this is really to avoid the other two options - 1) angle the posts at 60deg so the tension forces the posts into the ground, or 2) build large H braces on the ends.


texts: Can I use 12-2 wire on a 20amp breaker to power an entire bathroom?

texts:
I have a half bathroom I was going to power with a dedicated 20 amp circuit breaker.

I was going to use the 20 amp breaker to power:

vanity light
shelf light (Phillips hue light strip)
outlet
bathroom fan

I was curious if this is frowned upon or even allowed? More specifically if using 12-2 to power my vanity light, and light strips is unsafe or “too much power”

I was under the impression 14-2 is typically used to power these sort of things so I was unsure what is preferable and safe.

Any help would be appreciated


texts: Can you operate / permanently install an air compressor in freezing temperatures?

texts:
My garage is heated but it's attic is not. The attic is accessible and could make a good location for a large air compressor - saves space & could muffle the noise. But the annual temperature swings in the attic are a concern.

Winter temps here can go down, at the extreme, to < -10 F (-23 C).
Summer highs might be less of a concern, but get into the 80s/90s (26/32) outside - probably > 100 F (37 C) in the attic.

Aside from whether extreme temps could be harmful to the motor or compressor pump itself, the tank is bound to get some condensation in it. I would plan to have a drain tube / valve plumbed in, but I wonder if frozen ice inside the compressor tank could cause an issue?

I checked a manufacturer's manual for a somewhat expensive compressor and it literally says nothing about operating temperature.

Reading around internet forums I get kind of a mixed impression - nothing that seems conclusive.

There are indeed some compressors used outside all the time - like at gas stations for filling tires. But those might have been purpose built for the conditions so I don't infer much about a standard workshop compressor from that.


texts: A light fixture with 2 white, 2 black wires, 1 copper. How do I connect this light fixture to a ceiling junction box? (See drawn diagram)

texts:
I have a problem with this configuration and can't figure it out on my own.

Configurations I've tried:

1: Bulb1 and Bulb2 white and black wires connected to light switch black and white wires. Copper wire connected to junction. I Turn power on, turn switch on, no light.

2: Bulb1 and Bulb2 white and black wires connected to breaker white and black wires. Copper wire connected to junction. Turn on power, lights come on, but switch has no control.

Note: I have tested continuity on the switch, and its wires. There is no problem with the switch. Also the light fixture is brand new. And the light bulbs are tested working fine.

This picture above really simplified things. (took it from another thread)


texts: Mounting / Support requirements for an oversized book case

texts:
I am building a large bookcase, 12 feet wide by 5 feet high. Not a problem if it sits on the floor but the twist is that I must raise it up 18" due to a wall to wall hot water baseboard heater and electrical outlets along that wall.

I plan to use use 9 heavy-duty angle supports (rated 125 lb load) every 16 inches on the wall and wood support legs (1 inch decorative spindles every 3 feet on the front edge of the 12" depth unit. I estimate the load to be close to 800 lbs of books and items plus the lumber.

I have a few questions:

I believe I have sufficient load support.  The brackets alone support 1,125 (9*125) lbs.  With the additional front leg support, does this provide ample support?
What kind of screws should I use to hold the brackets? The sheetrock is 5/8 thick and the support bracket is 1/8". I don't want the screws supporting the brackets to snap under the load.  Would 3" steel nails be better?
The leg supports are 1" spindles.  Would it be advisable to use a 4X4 baluster - the kind used at the end of a staircase.  Obviously a 4*4 would provide a ton more support - but its bulkier and less attractive -- but is it overkill? I guess I can space them every 4 feet?

Thanks for any assistance!

PS - The unit would be secured at the top.  It will reside in a space that has a soffit for ductwork and will be secured to the crossbeam for stability, so no danger in tipping forward.


texts: Does this small clamp have a special use?

texts:
I have this small clamp - its about 2" / 5 cm tall:

I'm not sure where it came from so I don't know what its for. Note the pin on the right side which is removable - I assume this is to allow something to fit in the clamp from the side?

I suppose it could be more of a press than a clamp but I don't think you could get much pressure given the small size of the main knob.

Searching for terms like "castaloy small clamp" returns lots of hits but nothing that seems to match this particular tool.

Update - thanks to Solar Mike's answer I was able to locate the exact clamp, apparently still made which is a "Fisherbrand Castaloy Hosecock Clamp" from Fisher Scientific, with the description

  Fine-machined adjustment screw for very accurate regulation of flow

Neat!

The keyword that made the difference was "tube" which was critical to locating it since nothing about the clamp was obvious to me to have anything to do with tubing.


texts: Electrical wire inside Schedule M copper tubing

texts:
Is it ok to run electrical wires in schedule M copper tubing?  I have recently installed electric cove heaters in my house and I do not want to run the wires through the wall.  I am thinking about using copper tubing to hide the wires in a sort of "industrial" decorative way.

Thank you


texts: How to cover up ripped drywall with minimal effort?

texts:
My basement has many ripped drywall areas like in this picture.

How can I cover these areas up with minimal effort and cost. It doesn't need to be permanent or look extremely good, as I see this as semi-permanent solution to make it less ugly for the time being. Covering it up with drywall is an obvious choice but it costs quite a bit and it's not the easiest to cut and install. Is there another type of material (such as thin wood board) that I can consider?


texts:
I am redoing a shower, tearing off old tile, replacing green board with Durock.  I need help on whether I should or should not put a plastic sheet, vapor barrier over the studs before putting in the Durock.  I am in a second floor condo and I don't want any water getting behind the shower walls and dripping down into the lower unit.
   I have read some other posts on this topic.  Some feel the Durock should "breathe" to dispense any moisture to prevent mildew for forget the plastic sheet. My worry is if my unit causes damage below- I have to pay to fix it.  I want things waterproof.
   I read another post suggesting a 12" strip of plastic along the top of the tub area with the plastic overlapping the lip of the tub and sealed against it.  That ought to be water proof and leave the Durock above the strip free to breathe.
   In any event, I'd welcome any opinions on the issue of a plastic vapor barrier under/behind Durock.  Thanks.


texts: Gripping a 45mm / 1.75" metal disc to allow replacement of corroded toilet lid fixtures

texts: We wish to replace the corroded fixtures in our bathroom. It is a corner fit toilet with very little room for manoeuvring tools on the underside. I need to be able to hold the plastic washer in place with pliers whilst gripping the 45mm / 1.75" metal disc on top and turning the disc to unscrew the corroded bolt through the washer. The ‘L’ shaped pin on the right disc turns independently from the disc itself and I will need to remove the filler from the left disc if I can find a viable solution to turn the discs. Many thanks in advance for your assistance.


texts: Removing broken screw from electrical box

texts:
How can I remove a broken screw from an electrical box? I have added a picture below.

I was attempting to replace the outdoor outlet, as I described in this question. I was using a brand new screw that came with a GFCI outlet. It screwed in to a point, but then seized up. In my effort to force it in, I broke the screw.

Once I get the screw out, how can I prevent this from happening with the next screw?

There is a fair amount of rust built up as well. Is there any way to remove the rust to make the screws go in and out easier?


texts: My new range hood calls for 5" pipe.  I was planning to use a 5"/6" reducer to convert to 6" pipe for going through my attic to the roof.  I know that using a smaller pipe than what is called for is problematic due to restricted airflow.  But is there any problem with using a larger pipe than what is called for?


texts: I have a junction box with two switches in it.  I have found some interesting wiring in this house, but I am not sure what to do with this. The switch on the left has two red wires going to it and one white.  The other has two blacks.  There is also another three way switch I believe is wired into this circuit.  Any ideas on what this set up is?


texts: Ceramic tile on conrete floor: caulk or grout to cinder block wall

texts:
I plan on tiling a laundry room concrete floor.
Two adjacent walls are cinder block.

I know NOT to use grout between tiled walls and floors or it will crack.

However, since there should be little or no flexing between the surfaces, can I use grout in this situation?


texts: What is causing my halogen lights to not stay on immediately?

texts:
I have 2 x 35w halogen bulbs running from a 12v 105w transformer.

When I switch them on (standard on/off switch not dimmer switch), they blink on, go off then come back on and stay on.

If I switch them off and on again they come on immediately and stay on.

If I leave them off for a few seconds they go through the blinking on process when I switch them on.

Before replacing an Aurora transformer with a Varilight transformer they behaved perfectly normally.

What's the problem?


texts: Can't remove wires from a circuit breaker

texts:
I'm trying to remove a breaker in the electric panel.  It's an ITE GFCI in a Gould panel, now owned by Siemens.  It can be as old as about 38 years.  The load line releases easily with a set screw.  Then...

There are 3 wires connected to the breaker through the same port, with no visible means of releasing them --- no set screw and no hole in which to insert a tool to push on a spring-type release  The 3 wires are:

the load neutral (white)
the panel neutral (white with a black spiral stripe)
a 2 or 3" wire (dark grey) which loops around and enters another port in the breaker with a set screw that is blocked from use by a cover over the screw-head slot.

Since I have to remove the load neutral to replace the breaker:

How do I release the load neutral or all 3 wires at once?
Do I have to cut the load neutral at the breaker and re-strip the end of the wire?


texts: How do I install a french drain in a sunken concrete patio?

texts: Just bought a new home the back patio is sunken with no drain. I know I need to dig down and put a French drain out side of it. Where is the best place to penetrate the concrete and put a drain ie. Base of the wall, though the floor, ... ?


texts: How do I replace the pin on a tub rocker

texts:
My tub rocker arm split in half, as the rightmost pin/rivet broke.
Is there any way to fix apart from buying a new assembly?
I've never seen a brass rivet/pin available for sale.


texts: When snaking the main sewer line, how do you know when you've reached the street connection?

texts:
I've had good success clearing out a blockage but am wondering - how do I know when I hit the street line? What does it feel like?

Right now I hit a seemingly impassable point (I didn't force it) about 5-6 feet past the obstruction I cleared - would that be the street?

The cleanout is around 50 feet from the street and I am snaking out around 70 feet (block was at around 60). I'm guessing that is due to the downslope and the fact the street line may be on the other side of the road.


texts: How do I prevent ice stalagmites from building up on the furnace exhaust?

texts:
I have a high efficiency furnace that exhausts via a pvc pipe out the side of the house, the trouble is the moisture from the exhaust forms an ice stalagmite in my driveway in the cold weather.

Are there ways to prevent this ice from building up (other than throwing salt on it twice a day)?


texts: Can I attach my mosaic tiles to wall in stages?

texts:
I am doing a tile backsplash in the kitchen and I am not able to adhere all of the tiles at the same time. Can I do the adhering in stages as long as I don't leave any excess adhesive on the wall before returning to continue at a later date?

FYI once all the tile is up I plan to grout everything at the same time.


texts: using hollow wall anchor in double plasterboard

texts:
I'm trying to put up a wall-mounted wine rack. My house is terraced and the wall on which I'm trying to put it on is the one between the two houses. On the internal side of the wall there is plasterboard and then some insulation.

Initially I thought that this would be the typical 1/2" thick plasterboard (as it is for the internal partition walls in the house) but it turns out it's 1.25"-1.5" thick. After closer inspection I noticed that there is a 1/2" thick plasterboard and then another thicker sheet of plasterboard (?), so the two sheets together end up being 1.25"-1.5" thick.

I have already put a hollow wall anchor which is for 1/2" thick plasterboard, so I understand that the metal sleeve will have expanded into the second, thicker plasterboard. Can this cause any kind of problem? Is it safe to continue putting the rest of the hollow wall anchors the same way?


texts: Can cracks in a wood-burning fireplace be repaired with a concrete product?

texts: Upon inspection, minor cracks were found on the floor & back of wood burning fireplace.  Can't these cracks be filled with some type of concrete repair kit?  If so, what is recommended for the heat?  It is a grouted brick in grey.


texts:
The previous owner installed this countertop, who cannot be reached.  I have no idea what kind of counter this is and wonder if I should be treating it, what I should clean it with, etc.

It does seem quite porous. When I wipe it with a damp cloth it is shiny and very quickly turns matte.


texts: Leads from wall fan control switch are aluminum wire?

texts:
My new house in the US has a Harbor Breeze combination fan/light switch with a remote control as seen here (different brand is shown, but it's basically identical). While checking some wiring (unrelated), I pulled the switch out of the wall and saw to my surprise that the wire leads coming out of it appeared to be aluminum (the house has copper wire). The wires aren't visible in the previous link, but you can see the same thing here on the page for the receiver. My understanding is that aluminum wiring is no longer done residentially and that it's a very bad idea to mix copper and aluminum unless you really know what you're doing. So what gives? Are these wires not actually aluminum, or are switches an exception for some reason?

Edit: In response to requests for more information, careful visual inspection doesn't reveal any copper color, even in cross-section, but the wire is braided and the individual strands are so thin that it's difficult to even see the cross section. That in itself probably rules aluminum out. Markings on the wire are:

E108485-S 18AWG FTI -F- REI HSING CSA TEW 105oC 600V LL84687 AWM 1015 VW-1

Those codes led me to this pdf, which says "tinned Strands, copper conductor, 7/0.254mm strands." So I guess that's the answer. Next time I'll know to search for the codes before bothering people here. :)


texts: Should I insulate my unfinished basement ceiling?

texts:
Question

Are there any negative effects from insulating a basement ceiling?

Story

I have an unfinished basement, with a family member living in a make-shift room.

In my efforts to retain heat in his area I put up some insulation above him (with a few other things). He swears that it has helped drastically.

The unexpected benefit was the floor above him, is warmer (so my wife says). I'm just happy that some of the noise he makes stays in the basement.

Expectations

So my expectations for insulation the basement ceiling, maybe a warmer main floor... and some sound proofing.

Why I'm asking

I started googling around and some articles said insulating the basement ceiling could potentially cause moisture/plumbing problems. Others said that it wouldn't hurt, but don't expect much of a return on the investment. One even said don't insulate both the ceiling and the walls....

My home

Its divided into two different sides, one side is the living room and kitchen, the other part of the house has the bedrooms and bathrooms. The overall shape is an "L" The basement is 100% unfinished, there are two heating vents down there that I leave open... but other than that its just bare concrete walls.  I don't know if this makes a difference but figured more information can't hurt.


texts: Can I suspend lights within my property boundaries, above my wall heights on my roof deck?

texts: I have a condo with a roof deck (super awesome). The deck is very large, but is right in between two other decks (we share the same dividing walls) of two adjacent condos. The walls are not particularly high; I can look over onto both neighboring decks by simply standing up. I would like to erect wooden poles (fastened by cement into large potted planters) completely within the bounds of own deck to string up lights overhead. During the inspection, my realtor's assistant  made a passing comment that something like that may be tricky (in the am-I-allowed-to-do-it sense) as the light from my deck would thus be shining onto the other decks. I double checked the condo documents and no mention of such a restriction is present; it seems ok... but is it ok? I don't know what other provisions/laws/codes I should be checking.


texts: Is it safe to use a log burning stove in an old fireplace?

texts:
I'm renting a property which has a wood burning stove. Recently I've been investigating ways to make my house warmer (secondary glazing on sash windows etc) and started to wonder how much air could be rushing up what appears to be a relatively open chimney.

My initial thoughts were to make or buy some sort of metal sheet to stick around the pipe which leads up the chimney. Coincidentally I had previously wondered why the fire sometimes didn't draw very well and where the soot came from which occasionally rained down from the chimney. Well now I know the answer; the pipe that comes out of the top of the stove is only about 5ft tall and is just open to the chimney.

I've been googling since I made this discovery and a lot of sites seem to suggest that this is a dangerous thing to have running as it can lead to build ups of soot and tar which are a major cause of chimney fires.

So my questions are:

Is what's already there safe.
Is it possible to add a metal sheet to cap the gap between the pipe and the chimney wall and if so, is it DIY-able or does it have to be bought?


texts: How do I fix the twist mechanism on a blind?

texts:
As you can see from the image below the twisting mechanism which holds the longer stick to adjust the angle of the blind as broken.

Any ideas on how this can be fixed, either by fitting a new twisting mechanism in or a DIY hack?


texts: How do I renovate 45 year old aluminum wiring for a new outlet for a new cooktop and range?

texts: We are currently updating our '69 era kitchen and are relocating some if not all of the receptacles. The old cooktop and range that we have now removed, were hardwired and used aluminum wire. We have discarded  the old wire and appliances but are now unsure of the proper materials to use for the new outlet. Is there a large difference between pvc and metal boxes, and what is recommended for a range?


texts: Why did my electric range wiring burn out at the terminal block?

texts:
Turned on our 2 year old stove (Whirlpool Gold) and heard fizzing noises, then smelled electrical burning. Went downstairs and shut off the breaker (40 amp). That was the only way to get it to stop "fizzing". (6 gauge wire by the way). The range is 240 volt electric 3 wire hooked up to a 40 amp breaker (6 gauge wire). When I took the back panel off the stove I saw exactly where the problem occurred. The black wire was burned, the terminal block was melted, and the inside of the back metal panel that I removed was pitch black in the spot that was facing that area before removal. I removed the stove top and inspected all wires and other electronic components. No problems at all.

So my questions are:

Why did the black wire only, at the terminator block, start burning?
Why did the breaker not pop off?
Is it safe to just replace the terminator block or is this an indicator of a much larger problem?
Is 6 gauge the correct gauge for a 40 amp breaker?


texts: How can I center a TV on a wall with a centered stud?

texts:
I have a 60" Panasonic Plasma TV that weighs 81 lbs.  I want to hang it on the wall using a full-motion wall mount made to handle 175 lbs.  The wall is drywall with wood studs.  I plan on using the 4 lag bolts provided on two studs.  I don't know the size of the lag bolts.  The Instructions say to drill 3.5" pilot holes using a .25" bit.  So, my guess the lag bolts are slightly bigger like 3/8".  The problem I have is with the wood studs.  There is one at the center of the wall.  To the right, the next one is 12-13" apart (center to center). To the left, the next one is 16" away.  These are 2x4 studs.

The wall plate on the wall mount has many holes in the back for the lag bolts.  Would it be safe to shift the mount off center so that the end result is the TV is centered to the wall (but not the studs).

If it is not safe, would it load be easier to the studs on 13" apart or 16" apart?

If I can do option 1 but have to give up extending out the TV, I am ok with that.
UPDATE:

Thanks for all the input so far.  The TV mount has 2 arms that attach the wall mount plate to the tv mount plate (they come together like a "V") but they cannot slide or adjust.  Here is a link to the TV mount, product 12280 on monoprice.  You can also some of it on the box in my pictures. http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12280&seq=1&format=2

I want to use 2 studs (and 4 lag bolts) but do not want to add any new boards behind or on the drywall.

These two pictures represent the options I am considering.

As you can see, with Option 1 (red arrows) the TV will only be 3" off center to the Center Stud but it leaves 8" of the wall mount unsupported.  Would this be an issue when I pull the TV out?  Would strap toggles be necessary on the left side of wall mount?
Option 2 (blue arrows) looks for secure to me, but is further from center so I would only consider it if Option 1 is not safe.  Thanks!


texts: What type of screws should I use in framing an area for a drywall patch?

texts:
As is evident in my previous posts, I'm in the process of framing an interior wall for drywall patch repair. I'd like to know what types of screws to use for connecting new 2x4's.  When I visited our hardware store, I was surprised at how many different types there are (exterior, deck, drywall, etc).  I also wasn't sure what kind of thread size the screws should be.

Any thoughts?

-M


texts:
These are my deck plans.  As you can see each square is 10".  Furthermore there are 2 sections (a short and long).  the measurements are as such

short width 84"
short length 182"
short square footage 84"x182"= 15288sqin / 144 =  106.16sqft
long width 180"
long length 168"
long square footage 180"x168"= 30240sqin / 144 = 210sqft

How do i turn my measurements and calculations into my wood order?  The intended wood is going to be 2x6x16 cedar


texts: How can I stop an in-the-wall air conditioner from leaking air into the home?

texts:
As far as I can tell, the air conditioner fits nearly perfectly in the hole, but there is considerable air leaking into the home through the bottom. I think it may be because of metal strips that line the bottom for some reason, causing the air conditioner to sit on the strips rather than on the floor of the hole, thus allowing air to flow in.

During installation of the air conditioner, I tried to fill the space around the air conditioner with foam insulation tape that I bought at the local hardware store, but that didn't work.

What's the best way to fully insulate an in-the-wall air conditioner? and how much would it cost for an independent contractor to do it? I'm reluctant to call the condo's maintenance crew because they are pretty incompetent.


texts: 2nd story, walk under, completely brick deck

texts: Is it possible to have a 2nd story deck, fully made out of bricks (IE supports are made of brick, you walk/sit on top of bricks), that you can walk underneath and store stuff underneath? I can't recall ever seeing one and am wondering if there is a good reason.


texts: How should I arrange artificial logs, and should they become sooty?

texts:
There is a chimney powered by natural gas:

I'm using fake woodchops which are made of some sort of cooked clay. I have two problems:

I don't know what is the proper way to arrange fake woodchops on top of fire. Is there a proper way of structuring them on fire?
Fake woodchops got black color on them after just a few hours of being used. Is something wrong with chimney? I noticed chimney is affecting things around it like wall and glass by turning their color to black. Might chimney be too smokey? Is there a solution for that?


texts: Is a built-in oven easier to maintain than a standalone one?

texts:
What is the more suitable to buy, so that its maintenance is easier and less costly, a built-in oven and stove or a standalone oven?

A built-in like this one:

or a standalone oven like this one:

And which one of these two is more practical to use, and to maintain with time?


texts: Can sewage smell be from water heater if water DOES NOT smell?

texts:
We bought a farm in 2019 and spent 2020 renovating the 1987 stick built house. We moved in November 2020. Since we have lived here there is an intermittent sewage/rotten egg smell from the basement when a lot of hot water is used--only the hot water and the smell does not come from the water. There is no mistaking where it is coming from. We can have the smell completely eliminated and then start a load of laundry and take a hot shower and the smell is strong again.
We put in a vapor barrier (poly wrap with sump and drain) one week and had a bathroom/laundry room plumbed in the following week with a sewage ejection pump installed. We have had the plumbing company out four times and the vapor barrier folks here once. I have communicated several times the correlation between the hot water usage and the smell. The plumbing company, who also installed the new hot water heater, said that if there is no smell in the water, the water heater is not the culprit. They have ran a camera in the lines and smoked our lines twice. The plumbing company is now saying that it is a smell from the poly on the vapor barrier.
My question:
Can the smell be coming from the hot water heater?
We are not on well water. Everything is brand new: lines, hot water heater, HVAC.  We basically live in a new house. The gas lines are copper and the water heater is propane.
I am at my wits end & checkbook end. I  would appreciate any and all help!


texts:
Has anyone ever had problems with an oil-based primer like KILZ being sticky or not drying correctly?

We removed some vinyl tiles and mastic from a basement laundry room floor (concrete) using BEAN-e-doo. After that we washed several times with a degreaser and dried the room with a dehumidifier for a day. It's a dry climate here so the floor felt dry, but there was a grid-patterned dark stain where the tiles had been.  We had some KILZ Original Primer leftover from covering pet odors in other rooms, so I decided to prime it with that.

After a more than a week, most of the floor is fine, but there are patches of sticky primer (it feels solid, but sticky like tape), and there are a few small areas where the primer is still a bit soft and tacky.

I just read the KILZ page about Blocking Stains:

  Although it may seem counterintuitive, water-based primers are the recommended choice for sealing oil soluble stains.

My guess is that residue from either the mastic, the BEAN-e-doo or both is still embedded in the concrete, and I should've used a water-based primer.

What is the best way to proceed?

Give the primer more time to dry
Paint over it with water-based primer
Strip the floor and start over

It's about 350 square feet, so really don't want to strip it, but I also don't want to create a bigger mess by doing the wrong thing.  My hope was to prime it and paint it with something durable.


texts:
Here we have an anchor named "universal anchor", that is supposed to work in every kind of wall (concrete, hollow, drywall, etc). I've used it in concrete and it is very good, but I'm a bit worried about using it in drywall, since I know expansion anchors are terrible in soft materials.

In drywall it is supposed to pull the anchor and deform it until it is snug on the wall. Won't it also expand a bit and damages the hole? Any luck using something like those? See the pictures below:


texts: How to add a main shutoff breaker to sub panel

texts:
I have a 50 amp service line that I'm running to a sub-panel in my outdoor workshop. Rather than plug the service line directly to the buses on the sub-panel, I'd like to add a 50 amp breaker first.

I just can't find how to do this. I'm assuming I plug the service lines to the breaker and breaker to the sub-panel and now the bus has the 50 amps ready to use. Is this true?

Or do I have to run additional wiring from that breaker to the bus posts?


texts: During a lightning storm, what causes the lights to temporary cut off and on?

texts:
I know it is pretty common during a lightning storm for lights to temporary cut off and on, but where and how and why is this occurring?

Is the transformer temporally shutting off power to prevent a surge from affecting the mains power? Or is this something even further up stream at a substation?


texts: How do I convert a service panel to a junction box?

texts:
I'd like to convert my existing 100-A panelboard to a junction box (a new 200-A panelboard is being installed about 15' from the existing panel).  My naive question: are there any particular rules to follow for making the specific junctions within the new panel?  Do I simply use wire nuts to join each individual circuit together, and put a cover on the front like one would do for a simple junction box (like, say, extending a branch circuit)?

I guess my thought was: converting a panelboard to a junction box must make for a bowl-of-spaghetti-looking panel, no?

Can I use the existing panelboard cover as my junction box cover (with the now blank circuit breaker knockouts filled in)?

I'm located in Seattle, USA.


texts: Rough opening is too small for sliding patio doors

texts:
Just before installing a sliding glass patio door today in our self-built home, we measured the rough opening and it is 1-3/4 inch too short for the height of the slider. (The slider is 6 feet wide by 6 feet 6 inches tall.) How this happened is anyone's guess. At any rate, we have two choices (I think):
A. We completely remove the header and the cripples above it, reduce the height of the cripples by 1-3/4 inch, and use shims and a 2x6 piece cut to fit in under the left and right sides of the header on the jack studs to increase the height of the rough opening by the necessary amount.
Or,
B. We use a Sawzall to cut off the bottom 1-3/4 inch of the header across its length.
Problems we see with both fixes:
A. This is a load-bearing roof-end wall. Even if we work fast, there is the potential for sagging once the security and strength of that header is completely removed from the framing. Can we possibly hold it up with temporary framing while we do what we need to do before replacing the header in its new position? Use a wall jack? (We don't have a wall jack.)
B. We used three 2x10s with 1/2 inch plywood sandwiched between to create the header. Taking 1-3/4 inch away from the header will, in essence, create a 7-1/2 inch header. Is that strong enough over the six foot width of the door to sufficiently support the roof?
There could absolutely be another fix we're not seeing...we're not builders by trade.


texts: Why does my electric range lack fine temperature control?

texts:
We had a Stove at the cottage for which all of the range elements ran either hot hot or cold. This made it very difficult to cook pancakes etc! We bought a new stove for our house and moved the old one up to the cottage where it soon (immediately?) began to have the same problem.

Could this be a problem with the wiring somehow? Or could it be caused by freezing hard over the winter, or is it just a coincidence. We are considering buying a new stove but I'd like to be confident it is needed. I have no confidence in the work of the guy who previously owned the cottage so anything is possible. I am pretty sure it has a proper side by side double breaker.

It did not occur to me to take pictures or anything like that when I was there last, it is a 10 year old stove that used the standard large three (four?) prong plug. What do I need to know to go up there and try to figure it out?

The Range has the regular 4 knobs that are each supposed to control an element's temp from low to High, If I set one to medium I get almost no heat, then if I turn the knob higher i get pretty much full heat, then I set it back to medium and it stays on full. Parts of the element are glowing red.

I cant speak as to the quality of the power, noticeable brownouts are very rare. There are lots of trees near the lines and it is not unusual to get an outage after a storm.


texts: What kind of wood is around this fireplace?

texts:
Take a look at this picture:

Could any one tell me what kind of wood that is around the fireplace? Is that just skirting board, or Dado rail or what?  I don't know what to look for.  Judging by the picture the wood is about 70mm wide (it looks about the same as the width of a brick).
I'm just having trouble finding something online that looks like it.

I'm in the UK by the way- I've had a scout around on B&Q and Wickes website...