texts: Fixing various problems with attic insulation

texts:
I have a 22 year old home that has various insulation problems in the attic. Here's a quick rundown of the types of problems I'm seeing, numbered for reference:

Gaps at the top edges of wall insulation:

Gaps underneath the edge of our cathedral ceiling:

Gaps where pipes block part of a wall cavity:

Gaps around outlets:

Areas where the ceiling height changes. In the attic, these look like popups with blown in insulation on top. The problem is that the insulation tends to fall off on the edges, leaving little coverage there:

Similar to problem #5, we also have tray ceiling popups where insulation tends to fall off on the sides (here includes an inside shot of the tray ceiling):

For problems 1, 2, 3 and 4, what's the best fix? Spray foam? Stuff more bat insulation in the gaps?

For problems 5 and 6, and ideas for keeping the blow in insulation in place around the edges of raised ceilings?

Input appreciated!


texts: How can you tell when a vacuum breaker needs to be replaced?

texts: The one in the master bath just started "leaking" recently and now my daughter reports the same problem in her bath.  Is this just a part of their normal function or do they need to be replaced or possibly just adjusted?


texts:
i am attempting to create a 120v outlet to plug in LED light strip in ceiling.  The existing lights in the ceiling area-wire are two separate 24v lines going to two strings that have multiple 5 watt lights that are stuck into the light wire by means of two prongs, much like 12v landscape lights.
I connected the hot and neutral wires (pig-tailed them to the outlet due to large gauge wiring from two-wire light wire.  I used my multimeter set on AC and read only 4v; then tried reading on DC setting and read zero.  I did the same on the other powered wire and it read the same for AC and DC settings.  I realize it is possible that there may be a 24v transformer somewhere in the ceiling from the switch, but it should have read something on the DC setting.  I'm wondering if I should connect both power wires together in the outlet box.  Any answers would be appreciated.


texts: What is this hanging concrete ledge underneath my mother's basement window?

texts:
This winter my mother had a pipe freeze in her basement -- we had to tear out some cabinetry that the previous owner built in front of the main shut off valve, and in doing so we decided to rework the entire utility room.
One of the (many) curious things we found, is that one of the windows appears to have a free hanging concrete ledge underneath it. There appears to be a piece of plywood underneath it, but the plywood doesn't appear required -- perhaps the plywood was part of the form used when pouring the window.
Does this seem like normal construction? Why would this be here? Is there any reason I couldn't just (with the appropriate tools) cut the concrete to be flush with the brickwork?


texts: Connecting 2 water supply lines together to prevent stagnation?

texts: I am installing Pex in my house. I am using a home run system. I will have 1 outlet on the cold water manifold that  I will not be using. Instead of capping it off I would rather just use the last outlet. My plan is to connect (2) 1/2" water supply lines together using a "T". then Run the water line to an outdoor spigot. My theory is that water would flow through both 1/2" water lines equally anytime my outdoor spigot was used. I am just trying to prevent water stagnation and make sure all water lines are being used.


texts: How to remove the wall plate behind Honeywell thermostat

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I'm trying to install a smart thermostat. I have a Honeywell programmable thermostat now. However, I found that there's a wall plate in back of the back plate, and it's secured to the wall (not by screws) and I don't know how to remove it.

I tried to search on Google and YouTube, but I didn't find anyone who has the same problem. I'm guessing this is a non-typical setup?

Any idea about how to remove this wall plate?


texts: Should I Circumvent the Pressure Regulator or Cap it for a Gas Line Pressure Test?

texts:
My gas line can't be pressurized since there is a pressure regulator installed after the gas shutoff valve.

My solution was to install an additional shutoff on the outlet side of the meter, circumventing the pressure regulator.

Was there a better way to do this?

For the pressure test, should I have removed and capped the regulator, leaving everything else as is?

3/4/2020 Gas man came to the property and said my setup was perfect since everything after the meter is my property. He stated that a pressure test is not supposed to include the gas company's equipment (the pressure regulator), and that the regulator was working fine. He performed his own test by disconnecting and hooking up a meter in between my line and the meter, and there was no pressure loss.


texts: Installing aluminum window in block wall

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I have no clue how an aluminum window is fixed to a solid block wall opening,I live in South Africa and the window I bought is glazed and came with 4 lugs that slides down the edges of the frame.
The only thing I can assume is when the window is fitted,holes are drilled through the lugs into the masonry and fixed with some sort of anchor screw before being plastered.Well that's what I think I don't know


texts: Duplex Circuit Breaker Still Providing Power

texts:
I'm in the process of installing a new dishwasher. I uninstalled the old one tonight in anticipation of the new one arriving tomorrow. I got everything unhooked and left the electric for last. I pulled off the cover and there before me are two wires and a ground attached to the old dishwasher. I went out to the garage and popped the circuit breaker which is one half of a duplex. The other half goes to the garbage disposal. These two breakers are rated at 15A each. I went back into the house and pulled the wire nuts off of the connections. I grabbed my trusty multimeter and test the circuit and it was reading 121vac ... hmmmm ... what could be going on?? I checked the garbage disposal by flipping the wall switch and sure enough, it's dead. I thought, "No big deal, just mislabeled." I go back out to the garage and flip the (now known as the garbage disposal) circuit breaker back on and turn the dishwasher off. I go back into the house and test the circuit again. It now reads ~40vac! I'm thinking "WHAT THE HECK??" I'm really confused. I now went back out to the garage and flipped the garbage disposal back off and go in again and test the circuit. It now reads ~1.45vac.

My question is: Is this normal behavior for a duplex? Or should I consider getting it changed out?

The breaker panel was a new install with the house 12 years ago when we had it built. Here is what the panel looks like as I don't know specifics about what panel (brand) it is or the breakers. Nothing is sticking out on them as to who makes either. The breaker in question is at position 27 with both breakers off.


texts: I just bought an older house and it has terrazzo floors the whole way through.  The previous owner installed carpet using tack strips that were nailed to the floor, instead of using contact cement, so when the carpet and the tack strips were removed it left divots in the floor along the baseboards of every room.  Is there any way to repair this?


texts: How to cut a 4x4 fence post lengthwise and at an angle?

texts:
I need to make lengthwise cuts down the entire length of an 8 foot long 4"x4" fence post like so:

In that diagram the blue lines represent the cuts I need to make, and the purple areas are the areas that will be removed by the cuts.

I (likely) don't have access to a table saw, so I'm hoping there is a solution involving a circular saw or something similar. It needs to be something that can cut 4" thick wood length-wise. In addition to the tool of choice, the larger problem is holding the saw at the correct angle for the duration of the cut. I would imagine some kind of jig/railing needs to be put in place, but I have no idea what.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!


texts: Best way to drain water away from house?

texts: When we get rain the water flows off the cement slabs and drains into the space between the pavers. This is a small amount of water, but enough that a leak has formed in the basement. We are taking care of the crack in inside and now we want to take care of the issue outside. I am planning on doing a channel drain. I am not sure how I should drain water away from that point. Any suggestions or help?


texts: Are garage door locks that cannot be opened from the outside available?

texts:
I would like to replace my garage lock with a lock face that does not permit opening it from the outside.  I don't have a key to it anyway, and right now it's the weakest link of my home security.

I've not been able to find a solution for this, however.  Can you recommend any replacement lock faces that are simply plates, without a key hole?


texts: Is insulation around a dryer vent hose safe?

texts:
I live in an old apartment which does not have laundry, or even laundry hookups. Since I despise laundromats, I took it upon myself to get a portable washer which connects to a sink, and a portable dryer. Now that summer is here, the dryer really needs to be vented outdoors. I found a bracket that lets me vent it through a window opening, which seems to work well.

This is the vent I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUCRS9I/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1462392707&sr=1&keywords=dryer+window+vent

The only issue is that there is some more cold air coming though the gap because there is only a single pane of glass insulating me from the elements now. I decided to get some R-30 fiberglass insulation and stuff it in the gap where the bracket is, between the two window panes. It seems to be doing a decent job. My only question is, is this a safety hazard? I know venting a dryer through a window is not to code, but that is besides the point. I understand that fiberglass insulation is not flammable, correct? Do I have anything to worry about?


texts:
recent rains revealed a problem on our portico roof--instead of running into the gutters, the water drips down  the column and in front of the gutters!  So, I went up there and discovered puzzling construction of the flashing channel--tiles broken in half and turned upside down were set there, collecting snail shells and blocking or diverting the water.   Why?  These tiles are those huge hump ones--about 6" dia.   Further up there is a perpendicular wall with 3 humps abutting the flashing,  but no end pieces -- just wide open--a brasserie serving escargot ;  is that normal ?
dripping from roof  How should the abbuttment to flashing be finished off?  I cleared the down channel of the broken tiles and bent the channel lip open so that a pail-of-water test does not drip .  Now I need to find out how to finish the construction of the ends of those 3 runs while still wondering if I need to put those broken tiles back onto the channel.
Thanks
Ed


texts: Replaced lights & switches on 3 way switch circuit; not sure if I have wiring problem or product problem or both

texts:
Project description:
  Replaced 2 ceiling light fixtures with 4 recessed LED lights on 3-way circuit. Also replaced (2) 3-way switches, one with dimmer and one standard, and (1) standard 2-way switch feeding outside porch light.

Problem:
  Can't get both 3-way switches to operate the 4 new recessed lights independently. Currently, in order for the 3-way dimmer switch (on right) to turn lights off/on, the 3-way standard switch (on left) needs to be flipped. I feel like I've tried every possible wire combination tied to the 3-way switches but no luck. The 2-way switch controlling outside porch light worked fine with every combination I tried, and it makes sense with power from breaker connected directly to switch for porch light.

I can add more pictures or answer any questions to clarify anything. Thanks a lot for any help or advice.

OPTION - based on feedback from first post and looking back at the Lutron Diva CL 3-way switch diagrams, heres a new drawing of what seems like a solution. Really appreciate any/all feedback.


texts: How is running the water in one shower improving the smell of the other shower?

texts:
My wife and I had a mysterious musty smell in our master bathroom shower drain for a few months. We tried various remedies - snaking the drain (removed a small wad of hair), over the counter drain cleaners, enzymes, baking soda & vinegar, none of which helped. Then a guest came to visit and used the shower in the guest bathroom on the other side of the house. The smell disappeared. I didn't immediately make the connection, but eventually realized that it might be related.

A year later the smell returned. Having realized what helped the previous time, I ran the guest shower (which we rarely run) on hot water for about 5 minutes. The smell improved after the first day, so I ran the guest shower again, and after the second or third time, it was completely gone again. It has not yet returned after a week, and I suspect it won't for about another year (unless we have some more guests come stay with us in which case it will probably take longer to return).

I'm curious why running the guest shower improves the smell in the master shower? First, I would think that smells shouldn't come up from the drain if there's a proper "S" pipe in there, right? Second, I'd think that the smell would affect either both drains or only the guest shower drain, since that's what eventually cleared it. But the smell never appeared in the guest bathroom as far as I can tell. (While we don't use the guest shower often, we do use the toilet in the same room and would likely have noticed the smell.) What's going on here?

I should mention that the guest bathroom is off the kitchen, and directly behind the wall with the shower head is a small closet where our garbage is. There is a trap door in that closet that you can open to access the shower's plumbing, and I noticed the smell coming from the trap door the last time it happened. But again, after running the shower it went away and hasn't returned. Not sure if that's a clue, but thought I'd mention it just in case.


texts: Using a 100A main breaker in a 200A panel

texts:
So I purchased a 200A Siemens panel to replace the old 100A sub panel in my house. The main panel is in the garage and is also 200A Siemens and has a branch circuit to the house of 100A.

I bought a 100A main breaker for the new 200A sub panel since the sub panel will still effectively be 100A, but I noticed on the box of the breaker it says "Do not install on 150A-225A Load Centers." Can I really not install this in the 200A panel? If so, that's kind of a bummer... I guess I'd have to return the 200A panel and downsize to a 100A or 125A panel instead. The breaker fits just fine.


texts: Is it safe to replace a Furnace pressure switch with one of a different rating?

texts:
So I had some problem with my gas furnace and a technician came by to install a new one but it doesn't have the same rating and only has one tube instead of two. He assures me it's fine but I thought all furnace repairs had to be made with OEM parts? Can anyone let me know if this is safe and if it will affect the life of my furnace?

The furnace is a Lennox ML195 Single stage 95% efficiency furnace. He replaced the whole pressure switch but the new one has only one port whereas the old one has two, so now there is a hose that is unconnected on one end. Also the old pressure switch has a rating of 0.90 PF and the new one says 0.27" WC is that the same?


texts: How to tie interior crawlspace drain to outside discharge pipe?

texts: I am installing an interior perimeter drain in a damp outbuilding crawl space. In the "literature" (YouTube) this kind of drain is commonly described but always with a pumped discharge (basin, pump, 1 1/2" SCH-40 PVC pipe with check valve, exiting above grade). However in my case since I am constructing an adjacent trenched drain outside, and I would like to avoid the reliability issues associated with pumps, I would like to "gravity" drain the system. At first glance this is easy to achieve: I dig under the foundation footer next to the interior drain pipe to reach the exterior trenched outflow pipe and connect the two. However I suspect a more complex arrangement is required, including some kind of catch basin and/or clean-out risers. This is my question: what's the "correct" plumbing fixture setup for this situation? I've marked the diagram below: question is what to install at points A and B?


texts: Partial Power Outage No Breakers Flipped

texts: Reading other similar posts, I called an electrician friend (doing a favor, not on the clock), who checked the main breaker, it was fine; he checked GCFI's, one wouldn't reset but he said it wasn't the problem.  He said there must be another panel (or something) in the attic, but didn't have time to look for it.  I asked what I should be looking for, but all he said was that it was octagon shaped.  What exactly should I be looking for?


texts: Any ideas why a LP gas range would suddenly start tripping GFCI breaker when the oven turns on? Should i be looking for a short somewhere and if so, where?


texts:
I'm going to be installing laminate flooring in a metal enclosed patio and am wondering how to handle the molding around the edge.  I've done laminate flooring several times so I'm familiar with the install of the flooring but I'm having questions about how to finish the flooring due to the metal structure and cheap paneling so I don't really have anything to nail molding or 1/4-round to.  Any help would be appreciated.

How to attach the 1/4 round or molding to cover the gap left to the wall for expansion, the room is one like this: http://www.doityourselfpatios.com/enclosures/images/Big_Enclosure12.jpg, where there is no substantial structure in the wall to nail or even screw to. I've only installed molding in wood framed homes where I had wood to nail the molding or 1/4 round to and I'm not sure in this instance what the proper way to do this would be. I was thinking just use some liquid nails to glue the molding to the wall.


texts: Leaky outdoor faucet when using spray nozzle

texts:
I have an outdoor faucet connected to a garden hose and pistol type spray nozzle.  The connection is leak free until I turn the water off and pull the trigger on the spray nozzle to get some of the rest of the water out and relieve the pressure on the hose.  When I do this, water comes gushing out of the connection from the faucet to the hose.

Does anybody have any idea what this is and what I can do about it?

Some other information:
-I thought it could be the the washer, but I just bought a new hose and made sure the rubber washer was in good share and in place
-I've tried both wrench tightening the hose as well as the other end of the spectrum with light hand tightening
-The faucet itself is only about 3 years old, and as I mentioned, doesn't leak while the water is on

Thank you!

UPDATE:
Adding photos of the faucet: one with the hose attached and one without


texts: how close together can screws be before weakening a joint

texts:
I am looking at a full lap joint between two pieces of softwood, held together by two screws.  I may need to screw something else to it as well, which got me wondering whether there is a limit to the density of screws in such a joint before adding more screws makes the joint weaker (because of removing material for the pilot holes, and the screws crushing the wood fibres, etc).  Clearly filling every available square millimetre with screws is going to make the thing fall apart, but up to a point adding fastners will add strength.

Are there any guidelines for this e.g. in terms of screws should be x times the root diameter apart?


texts: How to cut a concrete block without expensive tools?

texts: I am building a wall from concrete retention wall bricks. I need to cut one brick in half so it can fit in the wall. The solutions here are too expensive, I only need to cut one brick. Is there any low-cost way to cut a brick? I'd prefer not to spend more than $20 USD on a tool to cut it, so perhaps there is a hand tool that can cut through that?


texts: Why don't American homes have blinds on the outside of their windows?

texts:
Traveling through Europe, seeing many different construction methods, I try to take an objective look at why things are done a certain way.

One of the most positive things that I see done in Europe compared to the US is that a lot of their (almost all in some regions) window blinds are built into the window unit and are on the outside.

The first benefit and a much sleeker inside that isn't cluttered by blinds and then there has to be a substantial insulating factor.

Is there any reason why this isn't implemented in the US?  And do you know of any reports/studies done on the comparative energy savings of outside blinds?

Note that this is a bit pricey because it has the electric guidance for the blinds.  Most have metal chains and the preferred is usually the chain since it is difficult to fix the electric ones plus the extra hookup.  I would expect to pay 200-300 Euros for a window this size normally.


texts: How much weight can single-track shelving mounted on brick wall hold?

texts: I'm looking at attaching shelves to a brick wall using single-track metal strips with adjustable brackets.  The metal strips will be 78 inches long and I'm planning on using pine shelves 47 x 12 x 3/4 inch. There will be 5 shelves in total. How much weight do you reckon I could put on each shelf? And what length screw would be the minimum I would need?


texts: Slope has gobbled up the retaining walls

texts:
A few tiered retaining walls were built on a slope on my property about 70 years ago. By now they have been completely consumed by the slope as you can see on the picture below where, in the white bubbles, you can barely see some of the stones.

My question is - can I reclaim the stones for another project without causing problem?


texts: How to repair leaking cemented crack in basement wall?

texts:
After a couple of rod holes started leaking behind a finished basement wall, we decided on a proactive campaign of basement waterproofing.  We found several more rod holes either leaking or about to leak, but the most perplexing find was a sheet of bubble insulation glued and pinned to the concrete basement wall.  It was clear that there was a problem behind there because the texture on the basement wall next to it was showing indications of water, so I ripped it down and found a cemented area that was visibly wet.  The cement stops a little below the top of the basement wall, and there's a decent-sized crack visible there.  Since I exposed the area a couple of months ago, the cement has remained damp to the touch.

I have two questions:

What's going on?  I'm assuming this was a crack in the basement wall that has been repaired, but how can the water be leaking through the cement?
What should I do to fix it?

Photos:

Clarification: I need to fix this from the inside. Fixing it from the outside is not an option (due to money and practicality). Presumably I first need to remove the existing "fix". How should I do that? Then what's the best way to fix it "properly"?  Any idea what's going on under the carpet?

Update: The plastic was part of a waterproofing solution by Foundation Systems of Michigan. It was leaking so I ripped the plastic off the wall. It turns out that it would have been under warranty if I hadn't touched it (not that there were any labels telling me it was under warranty or who to call; I called them for a quote on the repair and they happened to have done it in the first place). Now they want $1000 to fix it, but even if they were going to do it for free I don't trust them to fix it correctly after they've already gotten it wrong once. I can fix it myself better and cheaper.

What's going on under the carpet is that's where they've refilled with concrete after digging out the basement floor. Their "solution" is supposed to channel the water leaking in the crack down and out under the basement floor where it should get picked up by the interior drain tiles, dumped into the sump and pumped out. I don't like this "solution": I would think that having water leaking through the wall is eventually going to cause more problems (freeze-thaw cycles, particulates getting into the drain tiles), so I would rather keep the water out in the first place instead of redirecting it.


texts: Need Help Wiring Replacement Ceiling Fan

texts:
I hadn't run into any trouble with replacing the ceiling fans in my older home (~21 years old) until today when I attempted to swap out the ceiling fan in our bonus room. Thinking this would be a relatively simple swap, I haphazardly inspected the previous wiring while disassembling the old ceiling fan, and now, of course, I'm regretting that decision after multiple failed attempts to get the new ceiling fan wired up the same way.

After trying to do some research on my own to figure out the wiring confusion, I mostly came to the conclusion that my wiring setup is pretty atypical for the sort of connections I'm trying to achieve since there is no red wire available. Previously, the old ceiling fan and light kit was connected to two wall switches (one controlling the fan and one for the light) with two 2-wire (black, white, ground) cable runs  feeding in to the switch and one 2-wire cable going out to a nearby receptacle. I've left all of this intact as it was working just fine before I tore out the old fixture.

Needless to say, the source of confusion is at the ceiling's junction box. There's two 2-wire (black, white, ground) cables feeding into the box, where the first cable appears to run out to the wall switches and only works for the ceiling fan's switch when I make the right connections. The issue I'm having is with getting the light switch working using the other cable: It seems to be a power supply rather than a run out to the light switch because I'm only ever able to get the light to work with the pull chain. Both the old and new ceiling fan's wiring are standard - white, blue, and black.

Long story short, after trying multiple combinations of wire connections for hours, I just can't seem to get the light switch working at all with the new ceiling fan whereas both switches had been working before with the old ceiling fan. The best result that I've gotten thus far is that the ceiling fan's wall switch is working as expected, but the light is only working via pull chain. I'm stumped to say the least and could use any help there is to be offered (wiring diagrams greatly appreciated).

EDIT: I'm also adding a makeshift wiring diagram below of what I assume should be the correct connections. However, as diagrammed, these connections only work for the fan switch and do not work for the light switch (but pull chain for light does work) as I previously stated.


texts: Is it acceptable that mastic was applied as a blob on the back of tiles in shower stall?

texts: We recently had a new bathroom built in basement. The tile job is suspicious to say the least ( based on watching too many home improvement shows). The tiles were put on walls not by buttering evenly the tile or the wall; instead he used a blob of mastic and stuck tiles on wall and in turn there are gaps behind the tiles. Is this even acceptable technically? What are my risk? When we asked... he said that he was doing so to ensure even layout?


texts: installing a drywall ceiling where drop ceiling was

texts: I'm opening a brand new barbershop and I'm remolding my new space. It use to have a nasty, dirty, and bent drop ceiling. My space is a 29'x60' open space. I am also installing 2 interior walls to seperate my barbershop from the salon. What would be the best way to install the ceiling? I was going to use 2"x10"s to hang on the cement block wall with topcons so I could attach my joist hangers on. Then I was going to use a 2"x6"x16's for the ceiling joist. I figured if i attached the 2"x6"x16' together where they over lap, then they would work. I was going to use 4 rows of (5) 2"x4"x12"s as runners on top of the 2"x6"ceiling joist. Also, where those runners connected to the ceiling joist, I was going to attach a 2"x4"x40" from the existing truss to the ceiling joist so it will support 5/8" drywall and lights


texts: Pressure guage full of water and leaking

texts:
I have some DIY knowledge, but it falls somewhat flat when it comes to plumbing.
I noticed there was a leak in the airing cupboard and tracked it down to this innocuous pressure guage. I have no idea what the surrounding valves do (but there's a water heater in close proximity so I assume that some of them have a bearing on this). The house mains are also very close by.
I am collecting the water that is dripping beneath the guage, but I am concerned. If this is due to high water pressure is there risk of anything worse happening? What actions should I take? (calling a plumber on Friday night, during lockdown, is clearly not an option)

Due to request the area immediately above this photo is visible in the following photo.

Where the teal/turquoise pipe is immediately above the leak, the red pipe I think is the mains, and the yellow one connects to the top of the water tank.
I can't really see below the area with the leak as the water tank itself is in the way (and it is really big).
This area is a confusing mash of pipes but on closer inspection I am fairly certain that the pipe featuring the pressure valve is directly connected to the water heater in such a way as to suggest it brings cold water from the attic to the water heater (via that white and grey braided... hose?... with the grey taps at either end).
I do not know if the pipe above the leak connects to the red pipe... it disappears behind wood panelling... but I can feel it... it runs top to bottom parallel to the red pipe, it has a branch witch features our pressure valve. The pipe itself is slightly wet, both above and below this branch.


texts: Are there regulations about positioning a smoke detector in the vicinity of an air register? I would like to position it within 3 ft aerial distance but I'm concerned the air flow might be blowing smoke away from the detector therefore causing a false negative, which is like not having a detector.


texts: How to prevent galvanic corrosion on water tank inlet

texts:
My current hot water tank, presumably installed by a DIY former homeowner, has severe corrosion on the inlet tube and must be replaced due to a considerable leak.

Were I to DIY, how could I prevent this from happening again? Is several wraps of Teflon tape the usual method of installation, or should I use some kind of pipe dope? What will last the life of the tank or beyond?

On the new tank I imagine I'll use flexible hose on the inlet, which will have an O-ring. Will that be sufficient?

The outlet is in good shape and there's a pink wrap on the threads.


texts: Question about subpanel install in a shed

texts:
I am not an electrician, so let's get that out of the way. However, in the past I have installed simple subpanels in detached buildings and had my electrical work inspected and passed first time, so I feel comfortable doing some basic, standard wiring.

Now the story, in 2014 my wife and I purchased and began renovating an older house. The house was built in the 30's and renovated the first time in the 80's and at the time upgraded with romex wiring. The house main service was a 200A fuse panel but we asked the sellers to have an electrician replace that with a new breaker panel, which they did and it was inspected.  The house has a detached garage that was built in the 80's and it has a 100A subpanel installed in it, with just a few circuits for receptacles and lights.

I recently installed a shed out behind the garage and now to it I want to run a subpanel off of the garage panel. I plan to get the permits and have my work inspected. This weekend I did a review of my environment and found something I'm not sure about.  When I pulled the cover off the subpanel in the garage I found that it's only fed with three wires, H-H-N and the ground and neutral bars are bonded. I was not expecting this.

I have not called my local officials yet (Virginia) because right now I've done no work or pulled any permit, I'm just feeling out my options.  The shed is approx 70' away from the garage.  A run back to the main house panel is impractical (paved driveway, concrete sidewalks) and even if I cut through those, would make it about a 175' run.  I was planning to run 3 - #6 THHN and 1 - #8 THHN (ground) in conduit to the shed and put in two ground rods, and separate the neutral and ground in the shed sub. However, I'm concerned what an inspector may say about this setup seeing that I'd be feeding this subpanel from a subpanel fed with a 3-wire feeder configuration.  My other option is just to run separate underground circuits for lights and receptacles to the shed and not do a sub, but that's not what I'd prefer to do.

I do believe the detached garage was built with older code that did not require 4 wires and grounding electrodes.  But now, does that hurt me for pulling a subpanel off of that?  Pending differences in local code, is this possible or do I need to make changes to the garage subpanel before I can do this?

Added to answer the question below:  that is a good question, I did not crawl under the other end of the house to see if I had access to the point where it enters the conduit. I suppose you're thinking that if I did, I might be able to fish in a ground wire back to the main?  However, I also posted a response below that I got from the county inspector today, which pending how difficult driving ground rods might get, sounds like a much more feasible solution. I was planning to rent a breaker hammer from HD to drive in the other rods anyways, adding two more while I have the rental doesn't sound terribly difficult.


texts: Why would outside air come out a furnace intake?

texts:
One of my furnace air intakes appears to be letting in fresh outside air. I have three intakes on the main floor and one in the basement. The basement one is the offender as far as I can tell.
When the furnace is off, I can feel air coming through enough to be noticeable. Today, it is very cold, so I can tell that it is outside air coming in. When the furnace turns on, air flow reverses and it seems to operate like a normal intake vent.
I believe my furnace uses outside air, but I thought that was just for combustion. I have attached a picture of the furnace, just in case it is helpful.
Any ideas?

If this is "normal", I was thinking I might get some thin paper to place on the back side of the intake such that it can flap open for intake and close when the furnace is off. It faces downward from the ceiling, so this is feasible.


texts: Concrete caulk vs expanding polyurethane crack sealant

texts:
I'm starting to finish my basement. First step is sealing up some various places water has come in over the years. I've already fixed grading outside, but also want to seal inside.

I have one crack that I've seen water come through after heavy rains. For that I've purchased an expanding polyurethane product that goes under a layer of epoxy to force it into the crack (http://www.radonseal.com/crack-injection/diy-injection.htm).

I have several other cracks that show no evidence of water intrusion, but I'd like to seal them to be safe. I'm looking at a normal polyurethance concrete caulk (e.g. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_seal_cms/overview/Loctite-PL-S10-Polyurethane-Concrete-Crack-&-Masonry-Sealant.htm) for these.

Obviously for the crack I've seen wet I want a good deep fill, but for the others I'd rather pay $0.20/linear foot for the Loctite than $10/linear foot for the expanding one. Will the cheaper option still provide a decent seal, or is it worth $600 to use the expanding one everywhere?


texts: Can 12 AWG THHN/THWN wire be placed in a buried conduit?

texts:
My understanding is all buried wire in conduit must be THWN-2.
Per Southwire's spec sheet here the end of the first paragraph reads:

All Sizes Rated Both THHN and either THWN (sizes 14, 12, and 10 AWG)
or THWN-2 (sizes 8 AWG and larger).

It is baffling me that there doesn't seem to be THWN-2 in 12 AWG.
What do folks do for 20A circuits buried in conduit?
Background, I'm doing all this in conjunction with running 4-8's for a separate 35A 240V circuit to a mini-split. And figured I should fix the previous homeowners error of running 12/2 romex in that buried 3/4" PVC conduit.
Upsizing a 20A circuit to 8 THHN just to get a THWN-2 rating doesn't make sense to me, and I'd run into fill issues.  I would then need to upsize the conduit (not out of the question, but seems an extreme path to take).
Running 12 AWG UF-B in the conduit seems to be the other code compliant. While permitted that seems extreme as well and I'm not sure how to calculate fill using 12 UF-B + 4 8 THHN. Again, likely having to upsize the conduit.
I assumed I could just run 2-12 THHN/THWN (20A circuit A) and add the 4-8 THHN/THWN-2 (35A circuit B), and using one of the 8s as a common ground on both circuits. 6 wires total, fill would be 33%.
I'm wondering if there is some footnote in the NEC that says wire under 8 AWG actually only need to be rated THWN in buried conduits. Or if someone actually makes 12 AWG THWN-2, just not SouthWire?


texts: How do I add an independently controlled light fixture to an exiting three way circuit?

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In my garage I have a two way switch near the rolling door and another one located next to the entry door going into the house. Both switches control the garage main light that barely gives enough light in the garage. I want to add an additional fixture and I want to control it independently and with the existing two way switches.

Essentially, I want to turn it on only when needed, but always turned off by either of the three way switches. This saves energy while maintaining the convenience of the existing circuit.

Something tells me that it can be done, but it is difficult to see how I would go about wiring it. My initial thought is to treat it like another fixture, but with an additional 1 way switch between it and the three way circuit output. The other problem is how do I find which outlet is the first one, since it won't work otherwise.


texts: Can some one tell me how to change a bulb in this light please?


texts: Should I use caulk or wood putty and paint to fill nail holes on trim?

texts: I'm installing painted MDF crown molding, and I wasnt sure which method for covering nail holes is technically correct. Is using caulk considered a shortcut? Or is filling in the holes with wood putty and then painting only for the super perfectionist with too much time on their hands? I already filled in some of the holes with caulk, and I can't really see them when standing on the floor. My only concern is that it will reflect light differently since the paint is semi-gloss.


texts: I am using tongue and groove planks for a desk. What's the best substrate to use?


texts: Can an external light fixture and an external receptacle share a circuit?

texts:
I have to get power to provide an outlet for an awning at high level.

The nearest power source is an external light fixture. Can I wire into this? If so is there anything special I should know?


texts:
Looking to buy a non-professional (occasional home DIY use) multi-purpose power-drill like the 'Skil' range by Bosche (although I am open to other brand / makes that fit my budget). I have an option of buying 300W, 450W and 650W. I rarely (if ever) need to drill metal -- but do need to drill wood and masonry (including concrete). I am almost convinced that the 300W would perhaps be too underpowered, though I am not sure by any measure. The model 450W and 650W models seem to have only 2 differences, i.e.:

650W model claims to be able to drill 13mm in steel, while 450W claims 10mm
650W model has an extra side handle, I guess to get a better grip while using 2 hands

The price difference between 450W and 650W is significant enough to consider saving the money for other necessary tools for my tool box, unless the additional power is justified.


texts: Ceiling Fan - Single Switch, but Dual Switch installation

texts: I have a two switch plate & installed a ceiling fan using dual switch instruction (white/white, black/ungrounded, blue/ungrounded).  Fan & light work fine from one switch, but I learned second switch is for a wall outlet, not the ceiling. Do I have to rewire it for single switch (white/white, black & blue to black ungrounded) or is it fine?


texts: After I plunged my toilet, there was a leak to the downstairs ceiling. Could this be a wax ring issue?  It doesn't leak when I flush afterwards.


texts:
I have a wired garage that has 3 wire 10 gauge going in to it.
In the panel this wire is hooked up to 2 individual 15 amp breakers.
I want to know if i can put in a 30 amp breaker in that spot.

The Garage has a 240V heater and 115V plugs and lighting.


texts: Where can I get a light bulb socket cover for my never used outside flood light sockets?  I don't use the light fixture, the flood lamps are too heavy to keep in the sockets as the fixture comes detached from the house.  I'm looking for a simple solution.  I have inside flood lamps but they don't fit properly in the sockets.  Thank you.


texts: Typical general purpose sledge hammer weight?

texts:
What is the typical head weight (or weight range) for a general-purpose sledge hammer?

Background: I've been shopping around online and have seen everything from a small 2 lb hammer to weights up to 20 lbs. Shopping online, I haven't had the opportunity to pick one up and get a feel for the weight.

I get that the weight largely depends on the application (and the person). So assume I am a homeowner intending to use it for light to mid duty home improvement work (breaking up a concrete walkway, cinder block walls, occasionally splitting some firewood with a wedge, etc.)

Note: Right now I'm considering an 8 lbs hammer and a 12 lbs one. Is 12 lbs overkill? They're the same price, so it really comes down to the weight.


texts: Split switched receptacles all stay hot regardless of switch position

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I have removed and verified the wiring and tab removal on all receptacles with no problems found.
Somewhere the red hot (switched) conductor and the black hot (un-switched) conductor must be bonded.
This condition exists in two separate rooms with a third room (on the same circuit as the problem two) functioning properly.  Both terminals on the switches test hot to ground regardless of switch position.
I can't think of other places to look.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: How do I keep my corner pergola from wobbling?

texts:
I am planning to build a corner pergola over my deck. Pergola is 8ft long from the corner on either side  forming a triangle on the top. I have used four 4x4 posts (8 ft) attached to the deck headers using three 1/2" carriage bolt per post. How do I reduce wobbling when shear force is applied to simulate wind condition?

Since I am new to the forum, I am unable to post a picture. Imagine it's triangle with two beams parallel to the side of the deck forming a 90 degree angle and the third beam joins these two beams to form a triangle. Third beam has no supporting post. On top of the triangular beam, I have notched joists.


texts: How should stair treads and risers be assembled?

texts:
When assembling stair treads and risers, is it better to have the tread tucked under the riser or have the riser tucked in between the tread and the stringer riser backing? I am inclined to think the former because that way the tread gets more framing support but the way my current stairs are assembled is the latter, hence my uncertainty.

See picture.


texts: Adding fiberglass batts on top of cellulose; should I remove some cellulose?

texts: I am adding unfaced fiberglass batts atop existing cellulose insulation in my attic.  Currently, the cellulose is about 7 inches thick between/atop my 2x6 joists.  I am wondering if it is worth removing the extra ~1 inch of cellulose before installing the new batts so that the latter won't compress the cellulose and reduce the R-value.  Is this a good idea or should I just add the fiberglass right on top?


texts: 'Wait' indicated on my Honeywell RTH7400 thermostat after 1 week vacation

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New Homeowner (December) and I need help troubleshooting. Everything was peachy keen until I returned from a week vacation. A/C will not cool, but fan will turn on if I take it off of auto. "Wait" is indicated on my thermostat and I've 'waited' all night.

High level troubleshooting completed:
 1. Resetting A/C Schedule and setting to schedule
 2. Setting temporary temperature to 76 with System>Cool
 3. Followed troubleshooting instructions for "Wait" indicator/non-responsive.
 4. Replaced batteries in thermostat

Exposition:

While I was gone, I had a permanent hold set at 78cool/68heat. I live in Florida and this time of year that should have been pretty close to turning it off.

Thermostat model: Honeywell RTH7400

The owner's manual suggested I set the heater setting to above the current temp (80 degrees F) and the cool setting to below that temp and wait 5 minutes for the system to reset. No avail, but here are the details of that fruitless effort:

-I did this by System>Heat>used up arrows to scroll to 81.
What's strange is that once I get above the current temp it starts saying cool under the number as I scroll, as though cooling is the setting it thinks will raise the temp. It does the opposite when I set System>Cool>down arrow to lower temp to 76 (Heat shows up under the scrolling temp as I bring below current temp).

Sounds:
-Fan turns on only when I manually set it to 'on.' Does not blow cool air or hot air.
-After following the 'wait' instructions, I hear a click, maybe a quick double click, but the fan will not turn on when set to auto.


texts: What is the proper method for rolling paint on a wall?

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When rolling a wall with paint, is there an optimal or proper method of rolling?

Usually I just go up and down and make sure the paint is rolled evenly.

I've attached a picture showing some possibilities.  I am not sure if it makes a difference as long as there is an even coat.


texts: do I need to replace the entire faucet or just install a handle?  It looks corroded inside.


texts: Securing NM wiring on the electrical panel back board - Multi-cable staple

texts:
Would much appreciate your input on whether -

It's NEC 2017 approved to use the below (or similar) multi cable staple when securing NM cable within 12" of the service panel, by attaching the cable staple to the back board and putting the cables into the staple.  I.e.: Can I just use that staple before routing the cable to the joists above instead of the typical white plastic staples that can usually only do 1 to 2 12/2 cables?
Id just cut off that little piece that usually goes around the 2x4 so it's flat against the back board, and use both the nail and the screw.
If not, and there is no way to secure the cables within 12" above the panel, what else do folks use to the side of it to staple many cables to the back board?

Do the NM cables have to be within a conduit when coming out of the service panel, on their way to the staple, and out of the staple on their way up to the joists (about a foot above the panel backboard)?  I've been reading some and am all turned around on the whole conduit requirement.


texts: My refrigerator got unplugged for about 5 hours.  I plugged it  back in.  It is running and freezer is getting colder but the refrigerator is staying at 65 degrees.  It has b


texts: Just finished my basement. Went to take a shower in my new shower for the first time, and was shocked to see the exhaust fan dripping here and there while showering. I installed everything on my own - per code. It's a 6x8 bathroom with a 110cfm fan and a straight 15' run put the wall with an insulated duct. The fan is getting good suction as it holds a piece of paper up no problem and the airflow from the outside vent is strong enough to hold up the flapper. Any ideas? Could it just be related to the first use? I'm stumped.


texts: smelling sink when using water after P-trap change

texts:
I have just replaced dual bathroom sinks and installed new P-traps and faucets.
Now I have a smell when using the water in both sinks.
Can the P-traps not be properly leveled or installed?


texts: What is this white powder on my foundation?

texts:
Can anyone tell me what this white powder might be?  I was ripping up the carpet from my basement when I saw this underneath the padding and on the cement foundation.  It's white and cakey.

I at first thought I would just vacuum it up, so I took a wire brush and started rubbing it to break it up into a fine powder so it could be vacuumed.  I did that to a portion of it, then I noticed that there is discoloration in the cement underneath the white substance.

It seems that this white powder was probably placed there on purpose to cover up something in the cement.  I don't see evidence of a crack there, nor is there cracking anywhere else in the foundation.  Could it be mold related?  I'm a little nervous to do much else with it until I know what it is.  I don't want to undo whatever was done when it was put down.


texts: HVAC: hot attic, system off, heat leaking in from supply vents

texts:
It’s summer, the attic is hot, our HVAC system is off, but hot air seems to be slowly coming in through the supply vents, making the upstairs bedrooms hot.
It’s certainly normal for some warm air to come in from the vents when first turning the system on because the air in the ducts has heated up during the day.  However, I just noticed that the vents leak hot air even before turning the system on, defeating the purpose of my attic insulation.
I think the connections to the ducts are good (though I certainly could be wrong), but could there be another reason for this?  It certainly doesn’t seem right. Are we missing dampers of some sort to prevent this from happening?


texts: 2 switches and 2 lights, how to separate?

texts: In my living room, I have 2 lights and 2 switches. Both witches turn both lights on. I want to separate them so that each switch turn on only one light. How is this done? Does this require re-wireing and panel work? Or is this just a matter of disconnecting a wire from one for the switches. Here is a picture of one of the switched. I noticed it has 3 black wires.


texts: Can I notch roof posts to install deck beams?

texts:
I had a larger roof built over my old deck.  New 6x6's were used to support the new roof.  They set on cement filled 8" tubes set 40 to 46 inches into the ground.  I have been told I have to use 2x8 beams and 2x6 as floor joists.  This will bring my floor height with the added decking to my desired height.

I am told I have to notch the support posts.  If this is done, I will be doing this at the top of the cement.  Is this acceptable, or is it better to pour a cement slab for the porch?  After this is done, I want to make it a  3 season room.


texts: How to caulking a bathtub with various size edge between wall and tub

texts:
Background:

Bathtub was re-caulked by maintenance few months ago. 2-3 months after the caulk that the guy put in fell out. Given few other things that maintenance did that were poor jobs I am not sure I trust them anymore for anything I can do myself.

My bathtub has very varying space between the edge of the tub and where the tile starts. It varies anywhere from 0.5" to 1.25". It looks like there are multiple layers since in one part it fell out, and I am not sure what is in there (grout?). How should I go about repairing it?

My initial guess is:

Let the bathroom dry overnight first
borrowing multimax tool to clean out the whole area between tiles and bathtub (1*)
utility knife to for basically same purpose. Also will use this to clean out the group between the tiles that are molded (pretty much entire thing)
silicone caulk (not 'water clean up' type) around bathtub (2*)
grout for between tiles

1* - How deep should i go with the multimax oscillating tool?
2* - Is it too wide to just caulk it? Should I use grout? Combination maybe? Anything else to add?

Any steps I missing that I should do?


texts: Should I be concerned that water is pooling when ground is dug near the foundation?

texts:
My house is approximately 7~8 years old, and we bought it newly built. The foundation is mainly clay, and I live in a relatively dry environment (Calgary, Alberta, Canada). It is a walkout house, so there is a slight grade away from my house.

Recently, I dug some post holes for a deck near the house, and 3 or 4 feet down, water began pooling (approximately 20~30cm deep). This was following an infrequent, but repetitive rain lasting about a day at one time.

The question is, is it natural for that much water to form that shallow and close to the house foundation? I was not conscious of the issue until lately, and understood the importance of lowering downspouts during the rainy season.

Is this a concern, and if so, what can be done to remedy the issue?


texts:
Is there a way to enhance the look of a composite deck ? This deck was built 5 years ago and looks little worn out.
To make matters worse there were some paint droplets on the deck and i used a metal brush to scrape them off but it left scars on the deck.
Thanks in advance.


texts: 60' underground, 60' wall mounted outlet boxes and 50' attic space. What do I use for each? PVC, EMT or other conduit using 12/2 Romex

texts: I have a shop I'm wanting to run power to from my garage main panel.  I need eight 2 gang outlet boxes and one 2 gang switch box.  Outlets will be 20a.  They will have to be surface mounted on wall.  What size sub panel do I need, how many spaces/circuits?  I like to have each wall separate. When running wire in the conduit and the boxes, do I use pvc, emt or other?  I need 60' in attic, 60' underground and 50' on the walls between boxes?  I will have an licensed electrician hook everything up, but I want to do the rest.


texts:
I am in the process of replacing a regular switch that controls the light in my bedroom with a motion sensor switch and I am a bit baffled by the way it looks. As you can see in these pictures, it looks like a 3-wire (black, white, red) to a 2-wire (black, white) circuit. The 2 black wires (hot) are running into the top and the red one at the bottom. There are also 2 white wires in the box that are connected together with a wire nut and no ground wire. What I would like to figure out is the role of the white wire. Giving this is a 50-year old home, I doubt that this is a neutral wire and I'm not sure how to check it (probably with a voltmeter between the white and the black?). I've also noticed that my bathroom switch is wired the same way. The new switch has two black wires and a ground (green) and doesn't require a neutral wire. I also have a smart switch that requires a neutral (N-L-L1-L2-L3).
I know the black wires are connected incorrectly and I plan to use a pigtail and a wire nut. Now, I intend to connect one of the red wires of the motion sensor switch to the black wires, the other black wire of the switch to the red one and the green wire to the box. I'm pretty sure it's doable. My last question is, can I install the smart switch instead and use the (supposedly) neutral wire?


texts: Single pole light switch with three black wires?

texts:
I'm trying to update the outlets in my parent's old rental for them and I've run into a problem.

In the master bedroom, the light switch had two black wires connected to it, and a third one just floating behind it not connected to anything.

I took it off and put a new one on, except it didn't work. So I connected the other wire and it now has the ability to shut off the lights in the hallway, bathroom right across from it, and bedroom behind it when flipped on.

Held in between "on" and "off, all the lights go out. You can turn the other lights on independent of them, but if they're on when that switch gets flipped, they go out.

I'm more of a carpenter than I've ever been an electrician. Any advice would save me a headache.

Edit: Alright, there are three families of wires, black, white, and grounds. The three grounds are capped together, the whites are capped together, and when I removed the original outlet, only two black ones were connected. One was just hanging out. The wires are brittle and I ended up breaking one to the point I needed to add a wire to it and cap it together.
That in mind, I figured I should see what happens if I cap the black wires together. No light switch but the chandelier and fan turns on by pulling the cord now, and all the lights on that side of the house work concurrently without going out when one gets flipped on.

Now what I need to do is somehow wire a switch to it.
I attempted to connect a white and a ground to a switch along with a black and no lights on that side of the house would turn on. I alternated wiring configurations and the wires themselves to no avail until I thought about capping them all off.


texts: Hooking up generator to house propane supply

texts:
I have a dual fuel generator which came with a 5' Lp gas hose and a regulator to fit a 20 Lb tank.  The regulator is a:
G2R150: Two stage Regulator

Flow rate:150,000Btu/Hr Max. at 11"W.C. outlet pressure(Second stage), LPG.
Inlet pressure: from 25psig to 250psig
Safety:Lock out when over flow and over temperature.(connect to GCC or QCC)
Inlet connection:POL,GCC(QCC) or other thread type of fitting or connection
Outlet connection:Hose or fitting

Generator is a Firman H08053 Dual fuel
I want to connect it to my quick connect BBQ supply line which is fed from a:
CAVAGNA GROUP KOSAN
PART NUMBER: 988LP-03
BTU CAP: 800,000
MAX INPUT: 10 PSI
OUTPUT: 11"WC

Is it as simple as having a 30' propane hose made up with a quick connect?
Thanks


texts: How can I properly support a raised concrete patio?

texts:
I am planning on building a raised concrete patio. I would like to build the perimeter of block and fill it with stone and then cap it in concrete to be finished with blue stone later.  The patio will be about 3 ft off the ground and jogs in and out but basically 40 ft long and about 12 ft wide.

I plan to hook #2 re bar into the top of the block and fill the blocks with concrete. Is the stone fill enough support for the concrete ?  If not how far can I span it before I need another block wall for support.

I built a home once that had a 10 ft x 10 ft sun room filled with stone from the basement footings to the main floor and capped in concrete.  It seemed to work well.  Does anyone see a problem with this?


texts: Stair tread damage - repairable/replaceable? (photo)

texts:
The staircase had carpet, we want to remove the carpet and paint the stairs in their "wooden" state.

On removing the carpet we have treads like this:

We do not have access from "behind" the staircase.

Is this repairable or replaceable in a reasonable time/budget? (not "you'd have to dismantle the whole upstairs" level of complexity).

Edited to add: is it normal for treads to crack this way or do I have a more fundamental problem? House was built in the 1960s, I don't know if the staircase dates back to then but probably it does.

Edit2: Happy to go with a cosmetic "less than ideal"(visible cracks etc) as long as it's structurally sound.


texts:
5 hp 80 gal 208/230 volt air compressor, amps 18.6-17.5, LR amps -95, KW- 2.98
Located 80-100 feet from panel--looking for wire size and breaker size    thanks   John
on 230V circuit
hp listed on tank is 4.7
no FLA


texts: My husband saw a electrician hardwire on ceiling fixture that came with 2 or 3 identical lights that were not hard wired but were wireless. we can not find this light but want one and want to know how it works . this was on a diy or old house type show. can you help?


texts: What type of insulation has the highest R value per inch?

texts: I am trying to find the best insulation for my apartment. The limitation is that space between the drywall and the ceiling is 1/2". I live on the top floor of my building.


texts: I'm planning on painting a home office but I don't want to have to move all my equipment out of the room. If I keep my equipment inside and move it all to the center of the room will the fumes affect my electronics?


texts: Mounting a ceiling fan with 28” joist spacing and no attic access

texts:
Is there a decent way to mount a ceiling fan between joists that are 28” apart without tearing apart the ceiling? I don’t have access from above.

I looked into the expanding bar hangers that I can pass through a 4” hole but they only expand up to 24”.

Perhaps I can pass through a 2x4 with top-flange joist hangers on the ends to sit across the joists? I wouldn’t be able to nail them in from the top though.


texts: How should I frame in a large window opening to install a smaller window?

texts:
I'm replacing some windows in my house.  The original window openings were outsized for the rooms, so the replacement windows I've chosen are smaller, which means framing in the part of the opening that I won't be using.

The first window that I'll be replacing was off-center in the wall, so I'll be installing the new window to one side of the opening so that it will be closer to the wall's center.  As I see it, I need to create two pieces of framing -- one for the side of the window and one for underneath (I think a single L-shaped piece would be structurally weaker).  There are two ways that I could build these pieces: one where the side piece fills the opening vertically with the bottom piece at its side (Figure 1); the other where the bottom piece fills the opening horizontally with the side piece and window resting on top (Figure 2).

Figure 1: Side framing piece fills opening

Figure 2: Bottom framing piece fills opening

Have I considered all the options for how to build the new framing, and is there an advantage for one method over the other?


texts:
I have a Kohler 1.6 gallon toilet, I just replaced the flapper - but every 20 minutes or so I hear a sort of rushing sound. There are no obvious leaks and I see no air bubbles inside the tank when this sound occurs.  It is a 2-peice toilet and a few months ago I had a plumber change the seal on the bottom of the tank at which time a new flush was also installed.  I have since replaced the rather flimsy flapper that came with the new flush, I have also used a tank cleaner.  But the rushing sound still occurs - and the water level in the tank does not seem to go down.

Does anyone know what might be causing this sound?  I am trying to avoid the costs of a plumber for what might be a simple solution.


texts: I got a water pressure booster pump for my home and don't have an accessible return line. My inlet is from a garden hose line tap. Could I return to the same line using a T fitting and check valves on each side or would this overload the pipe?


texts: Well pump stops working after 30 minutes

texts: Where I live I have well water.  Ever since I bought the house, 14 years ago, the pump has stopped working after approximately 30 to 45 minutes.  At that time you head on down to the basement and lift a lever to increase the pressure.  After the pressure increases the pump works fine.  I'm in the process of selling my house and am trying to figure out if this will be an issue and if so how much will it cause to fix.  Up unto this point we have always used it as a safety measure, i.e., can't run continuously without it turning itself off.  It has never been a problem for us.


texts: Do can lights have to be wired in order?

texts:
Ok, so I am just about to start installing recessed lighting in my apartment. I've researched pretty much everything and I am pretty confident in doing the job. HOWEVER, there is just one more thing I need answered, that I couldn't find.

Do the cans/lights have to be wired in order?

For example look at the two diagrams below:

Can I do it like this?

Or must it be done like this?

It will save me a lot of drilling/time if I DON'T have to wire them in order from the switch.

Thanks!!


texts: What is a good generator for emergency backup?

texts:
So recently, during Irene, I learned that my car's lighter outlet was insufficient to power a sump-pump (hello, two inches of water in the master bedroom) Thankfully, the car's circuitry was fine but I don't think the adapter works anymore c'est la vie. Even more thankfully, this is the second time my house has flooded, so we knew how to protect everything above the sub-floor save the carpet (huzzah?).

Anyway, my wife and I have come to the conclusion that maybe it would be a good idea to get a generator to power the sump-pump next time. The problem is that I know almost nothing about what I would need.

My only major requirement is that it is able to run a sump-pump (batteries are not sufficient -- power can go for hours during a storm). It would be nice (since I need to get one anyway) if it could run my well pump and my refrigerator too (because keeping the food good and the water running is something I consider worthwhile).

Ideal world -- I would like something which an idiot can run and something I won't need to worry about too much between uses (I'm a developer, I can take a computer apart and put it back together blindfolded, but when it comes to maintaining equipment, I'm basically lost), and something which is inexpensive would be nice too.


texts: Why do my toilets flush slowly and often incompletely?

texts:
I have three toilets that all flush slowly and incompletely. I've adjusted the chain to ensure the flap raises completely. I've raised the float to ensure the tank fills nice and high. Yet I have this nagging issue on all my toilets. It often takes multiple flushes to clear simple waste and toilet paper, never mind the "hard" stuff.

All the sinks and tubs drain well, no issues. I'm wondering if the age of a toilet can be a factor. All of my toilets are from the mid-eighties. I'm getting to the point where I just want to replace thm with some water-saving toilets but it would suck to have the problem persist.


texts: Draft coming out of water heater vent intake

texts:
I have a power vented water heater. The PVC exhaust pipe runs up in to the ceiling then horizontally outside my house. This was installed by professionals, not DIY.  The outlet at the back is perpendicular to the wall - in other words the "mouth" of the PVC pipe open directly to the wind.  If I stand in my utility room and place my hand over the back of the power vent intake when the unit isn't running, I can feel a decent cold draft. The floor above where this exhaust piping goes is very cold too.

Am I right to suspect that the installers should have added an elbow and made the mouth of the exhaust pipe "point down"?

Would a further step be add some sort of device on the end to only open when there's exhaust pressure?


texts: How to seal a leak in a plastic tubing connection?

texts:
I am trying to repair a leak in the plastic tubing pictured.  This tubing is connected to an air conditioner's condensate pump (water runs through it whenever the pump turns on).

The leak is occurring right at the junction between the brown tube and the clear tube - somewhere near/behind the metal collar.  What is the simplest way to fix this leak?


texts: What steps do I take to painting a brick wall mural?

texts:
I'm about to paint a mural on a school playground wall. the wall is brick and has already been primed. I drew a sketch on paper and am considering the grids technique. I need to know how to outline the grids and the drawing itself...do I use chalk? charcoal? pencil? how do I rub off mistakes?? then, what paint should I use? should I buy all colors or mix- will I be able to make them again if I manually mix them?

where do I start?

where to buy brushes and what kind? where to buy paint??

Thank you for any help!!!


texts: New electrical install problem. Low Current?

texts:
Was sent here by the electrical engineers so credit to them for not being known it all types, they said electrician hang out here. Heres my problem below, will get a socket monitor thingy tomorrow and test draw on the socket.
So we've been renovating (virtually new everything) a 1930s semi that hasn't been modernised since it was built and hadnt been lived in since the 70s. Naturally a full rewire was high on the agenda which is 90% complete now, but my suspicion began when the 3000W fan heater I bought seemed not to be chucking out much heat. At first I thought nothing of it putting it down to a poor quality appliance. But when a new kettle I tried took around 7minutes to boil, I started pondering if there was a fault somewhere causing a limit to max power these appliances were generating/drawing. I had the plugs tested and they are producing 230v but before researching ohms law, I suspected a resistance issue. To double check, I took the heater home and plugged it in and hey presto, belting hot heat. I am awaiting an updated fuse board from Northern Power, which I'm sure will fix the issue but, I wanted to rule out any problem with my installation before I sign off with the sparky ideally.
The only other info I have is the original power was a shared supply to ours and next door and I wondered if some sort of phase drop was present grid side of our board. Is my next logical step testing resistance between board and consumer unit? Can you do that with a normal multimeter? My electrician who looks to have done a fantastic installation seems to be brushing it off like there's no problem but the house will be electrically heated and rented out so I can't have 2k worth of underperforming rads getting overworked.
All ideas, practical and theoretical appreciated. Sorry for essay.


texts:
I've found a great deal on a used cooktop. We're eventually going to remodel the kitchen so have been collecting things as we go along.

The catch is that this cooktop is for natural gas, and we have propane. I'll eventually be getting the propane conversion kit, but in the interim, is there any way I can test this (in case it needs to be returned) without having access to natural gas lines? Is there any form of canister fuel that I could hook up to it to test that would act like natural gas?


texts:
I've read several some of the guides out there (examples here and here) on this topic.  I've found a shingle in the yard a couple times (after heavy wind/rain), and at times I've seen a few granules in the downspouts, but otherwise none of the warning signs are present.  My roof is asphalt shingle with age approx. 15 years.

In the St. Louis area where I am, conventional wisdom says that 20 years is as much as you can expect out of an asphalt-shingled roof, so replacement is on the horizon.  The best time to replace it, I suppose, would be the day before it starts to leak.  Short of using a crystal ball, what other factors would help narrow down the optimal time to replace?  I don't want to replace it now if it would still have several years of service left, but don't want to wait until it leaks either.


texts: Wiring a single pole dimmer: How to identify ground wire

texts: I am switching an old rotary style single pole dimmer for a new single pole dimmer switch.  The old dimmer had only two wires, with no identifiable ground wire.  There are two other wires in the box, which appear to be pig-tailed together and wrapped with black electrical tape.  How do I decide which of these two wires I should attach to the green ground wire on my new dimmer switch.  I am attaching a picture of the box with four wires coming into the box...one to the red wire on the dimmer, one to the black wire on the dimmer, and the two others.  Please help, I don't want to burn down my house!  Thank you CC25


texts: New LED Cans installation tripping breaker

texts:
I'm finishing my basements.  Using these and these.  I have 2 zones on same 15 amp circuit.  First has 9 lights.  Installed it and works fine.  2nd has 10 lights.  Installed, switched it on and after about 2 seconds the breaker trips.  I can turn on one zone or the other without tripping.  These are 11 watt LEDs so I can't be overloading it!

I started unplugging the 2nd zone from the end of the line.  When I'm down to 2 lights it works.  Pulled the 3rd can out of the ceiling and the wiring looks good.  Not sure where to go from here or what to look for.  BTW, the drywall is in.  I used the retrofit cans because I'm using hat channel and a couple layers of drywall for sound proofing and the new construction cans didn't seem to lower far enough from the joists.

Thanks for any ideas!


texts: Electrical outlet installed by previous owner had Black and Green wires wired together

texts:
I've replaced dozens of outlets in my life without incident. This time, when I pulled the outlet away from the box, I found something odd. The white (neutral) wire was as it should be. But, you know how the back of the outlets have two holes where you can insert the wires? One for the top outlet and a separate set for the bottom if you decide to wire in series or do something with switch outlets...?

Well, the black wire was inserted into the top hole and the green wire was inserted into the bottom hole, not attached to the green ground screw. When I hooked up the new outlet, I fixed this.

But here's the weird side effect... NOW the other outlet in the kitchen has stopped working. I've tested everything else in the house. It's just this one other outlet 6feet from the first one.

I haven't pulled it out yet, but I'm guessing the green wire must not have been acting as a ground...? It must have been running power to the other outlet?

I'm asking here before I go any further just in case there's something an expert knows that I am overlooking.


texts:
Is there such a thing as an eyebolt where the nut is another eyebolt?

It would be used for a 2" tube with a hole drilled across it, something like this:


texts: Is it personal preference or code to connect grounding wires and neutrals to separate buses?

texts:
In my main panel all neutral wires are connected to one bar and all ground wires
are connected to another bar. is this just a personal preference or the proper way
to do the job.


texts: Is it possible to use an older GE service panel as sub panel?

texts:
I'm upgrading my electrical service from 100A to 200A and am hoping to leave the existing panel as is and feed it from the new main as a sub panel. I know for a sub panel the neutral and ground bars have to be separated, but I'm not sure by looking at the existing panel (an older GE 24 breaker) whether this is possible or not. It definitely doesn't look the same as the newer panels where you just remove the one tie bar.

Any insight would be appreciated.


texts: How to fix my roof draining into gutter improperly

texts:
Looking for some help on how to fix my roof draining improperly at the corners of my home.
To my eye, it appears that drip guard is not installed properly on the corner. The paint is starting to bubble up because there's water behind it. I tried looking around for drip guard installation tutorials, but most I've found are for the front edges of the house behind the gutters, not showing the specific corner situation I'm trying to fix.
I've linked a few pictures below, in the head-on view picture you can see that there's a significant gap between the drip guard and the edge of the gutter, leaving the compromised board exposed to the elements. Do I simply need to bridge this gap with more drip guard/flashing material?
Pictures
Paint bubbling:

Front View:

Head-on View:

Same problem on the rear corner of the house

Top view 1:

Top view 2:

Any and all advice is welcome, I'm a new homeowner and feeling a bit out of my depth. Thanks!


texts: Can the back side of a window type aircon exhaust in an empty ceiling area?

texts:
I'm planning use a window type A/C on my little attic room. My A/C unit is just .5 HP, just enough for the small room. The problem is there's no proper exhaust area like the standard Window type. There's an empty space on the side that  can be used as space for its backside/exhaust. The empty space is a above the ceiling of the house (not the attic) (the attic is on the 2nd floor used for some storage). The empty space is enclosed within the roof, so no constant "fresh air" coming in. It's used for maintenance way to the roof.

Split type AC are not an option.

I just wanted to use this spare A/C unit. The downside is the exhaust is above the ceiling of the house, but the space is the ceiling is so huge. Even 10+ times bigger than the room. Is this possible? or any downside?  I mean the best option was to have a split type Aircon, but for now I want to use the extra A/C for the attic.


texts: My home has a ceiling texture that i can't seem to duplicate. Attached is a photo. If someone can please identify and tell me how to duplicate this look I would appreciate it. It makes things more difficult when you want to patch something up and don't know to to match the texture.


texts:
I'm wondering what kind of glass this window is made of.
Is this a "strong" window like laminate?
Finally, is it safe to apply a film such as tint or "security film"?


texts:
Help!

I had the bright idea of changing my electric stove top, it looked simple enough.

I have 220V coming from my wall with one green, one bare, one hot black and one black wire.

From my stove-top I have one green, one bare, one red, two black and one white wire.

I connected the two greens & the bare wire together.
I connected the two black wires together.
I connected the one black hot to the red hot wire.

But now I don't know what to do with the white wire coming from my stove.

The stove works great. The problem is that I have a white wire that I don't know what to connect it to. I may be wrong but I think this is a common wire and not a hot wire. To what set of wires do I connect it?


texts: Garage Door Cable Drum Grinding Against the Track (Single Torsion Spring)

texts:
One of the cable drums on my garage door was grinding against my garage door's track. I tried loosening it to adjust it and the whole torsion bar moved 3 inches to the side. Presumably the stretch in the single spring came out?

How do I ensure that the cable drum doesn't make a horrid metallic grinding sound? Is there supposed to be a spacer? Right now, the cable drum appears to be serving as a stop and that doesn't seem correct to me.


texts: How to remove air from water supply line?

texts:
We live in a neighborhood where 20 of us all share a private well. Our water is very sputtery and also VERY fizzy when it comes out - lots of air coming out of it no matter where you are getting it from in the house.

The well operator has told us that the "occasional" buildup of air coming into our homes from the main is likely due to air being trapped in the horizontal pipes from the main to the houses or in there. But it's getting a little ridiculous lately.

Is there a way to eliminate / purge the air in the pipes and alleviate the air dissolved in the water as well - before it get's too far into our home system? Would a pressure tank do this? I need like a buffer / normalizer for the water coming from the supply basically. Sometimes it's so bad it will take a long time to even fill the toilet tank because of the violent sputtering.

We've tried bleeding the pipes and it usually hisses in the morning really bad and very late at night as well - but is generally OK through the day after it get's is all out.

No leaks or anything in the home - we are not the only ones on the well having this type of issue either.


texts: Open Limit Switch on Trane Furnace: How to fix?

texts:
My 8 year old Trane Model tuh2d120a9v5va furnace is not giving out heat. The service people are all busy due to the recent storms. Through the little glass viewing window I see red and green flashing lights. The red flashes 4 times, the green 3 times, and these overlap. The panel inside says the 4 flashing red means an open limit switch.

Where do I go from here?

Update: A 1" flat capacitor in the fan control module was fried black and cracked.  A new module and $1000 later and the heat works again.  Perhaps the power fluctuations due to the storm here caused some spikes that fried the module. I might put a surge protector on the line to the HVAC.


texts:
I think this DIY wiring is a bit too much (I honestly didn't know the fan came with a remote unit when I bought it). I have a switch with separate fan and light dimmers already installed (one switches the fan off and on and adjusts the speed, one switches and dims the light). I got the fan/light to work, but the remote and dimmers aren't responding as they should.  It's a Casablanca Glen Arbor with a remote.

My ceiling has a green, white, red (hot for the light dimmer I suspect) and black (hot for the fan dimmer I suspect).

The remote receiver unit has white, yellow, blue and black.

The fan has green, white, blue and black.

What would be the ideal way to wire this?  Thank you!


texts: What type of plug is this, and can I replace it?

texts:
Can someone identify this plug?

It came on an older radial-arm saw. Can I replace the plug with a NEMA equivalent that will fit in a regular socket? Not sure where it'll go, but all the locations I'm considering would be easy to put in a new breaker and run a line if it needs either 240V, or higher amperage.
Nameplate:

If I'm reading this correctly I can open up the wiring, connect as directed for 115V and then I just need a 10 amp, 60Hz, single-phase circuit - ie. normal wall outlet.
Thanks


texts: how do I Replace a ceiling fan with dimmer switch for lights and on/off switch for fan

texts: I am replacing a ceiling fan+light unit.  It is controlled by a on/off switch for the fan and a dimmer switch for the light unit.  From the ceiling I have a bare wire, black, white, red wires.  The fan has a white, black, blue, and green wires.


texts: I just had my driveway sealed, and the fumes are making my house uninhabitable. What can I do?

texts: I've seen claims about buckets of water, vinegar, and cut onions helping with freshly painted rooms. But that's all. Is there anything I can do to make these fumes go away? Or am I doomed to stay with my in-laws for the indefinite future?


texts: Furnace turns off before temperature is reached, fixed by unplugging and replugging thermostat

texts:
As the title suggests, my furnace will sometimes shut off as if it's reached the target temperature, while it is still far below (ex. set to 70F, stops at 63). If I unplug the thermostat, the furnace will turn back on (even before I plug it back in).
This happens when running on a schedule or on 'permanent hold'. It doesn't happen reliably, sometimes it goes until the target temperature is reached and turns off normally. It may be related to temperature (it might take more resets to go from 60 to 65 than from 65 to 70), though I also just might not notice as much at higher temperatures.
It seems to me that either:

Something is wrong with the thermostat, and unplugging it (switching from wall to battery power) updates the signal appropriately.
Something is wrong with the furnace, and I'm overriding some shutoff condition.

The second one sounds dangerous, though I hope that the furnace is smart enough to not be overridden if it's unsafe.
What's going on here?
UPDATE:
The thermostat is a Honeywell model TH6210U2001:

The pins connect to the base plate which connects WYGR wires to the furnace and air conditioner (separate units).
The furnace is a Jonson AirEase 80 Plus.


texts: How to prevent mold in stored joint compound

texts:
Joint compound comes in larger containers than I need. I have had this problem for years where storing opened but unused joint compound leads to mold growth, usually starting within a week or two. I'd like this to not happen, or at least extend it to months or years, so I don't need to keep throwing away 95% full containers and buying new ones.

The only thing I've really tried is storing it in the fridge after opening. This has inconsistent and limited effect.

On rare occasions I have been able to store it for extended periods of time with no mold growth but I was never able to determine how I did that, and upon opening and reclosing those particular containers mold started to grow anyways.

So, my question is, how can I make unused joint compound last longer?

Are there precautions I can take during use to reduce contamination?
Are there ways I can store it to reduce growth?
Are there mold killing additives that won't affect its usefulness?
Are there certain brands or types I can look for that are less prone to mold growth?

Often any molds that grow seem to be mostly in the surface, the joint compound underneath usually seems clean, but I never really want to deal with that mess.


texts: What happens when connecting two hot wires on same switch?

texts: What happens when there is 120v hot wire connected to one side of a light switch and an identical 120v hot wire connected to the other side of the light switch?  Light switch is then switched ON and OFF.


texts: How do I remove these screws from an IKEA Micke table?

texts:
I have assembled a Table Micke for the 1st time ...

but I have some screws I want to remove. or didn't fit well (shld have tighten all screws more), 110126, 103430, 110630

the look like below

they are put in like below


texts: Tiling on horsehair plaster ceiling over shower

texts: I'm tiling over a tub shower in my hundred plus year old house.  I've already replaced lathe and plaster around tub as area with cement board.  Since the ceiling is secure, I would like to apply tiles directly without backer board.  I would also use moisture barrier over everything.


texts: how to fix: the lock core came out and it's still locked?

texts:
I captured a photo for The problem, the core came out and the key just rotating 360 degree with no effect.
any help please?


texts: How should I connect the wiring for a Rheem A/C motor?

texts: enter image description hereI had my AC motor stolen from inside my outside Rheem unit. I installed a new motor today. I connected the white to orange and the black to black wire. I have a red, a brown, and white wire that I have no clue where they go. Please let me know where the 3 wires go.


texts: Are rubber grommets OK for junction box?

texts:
I'm looking at options for lighting my basement workshop.  I really like these "canless" ones that would mount in the suspended ceiling.  Interestingly, some come with junction boxes, but MANY do not--they just have the driver.  I have no problem putting the driver in a junction box, but I need to seal the opening where the low voltage DC wire comes out (and goes to the light).  For low voltage electronics, I would use a rubber grommet for this (with a slit in it because of the connector on the wire).  Is this material OK (code compliant)?  If not, what do you use?

To be clear, I'm asking about the material, not the clamping capabilities of the grommet.  If you think the low voltage wire needs clamping, we can discuss, but that wire is already attached/clamped to the driver box.

Here's a pic of one of these lights:


texts:
A 30 year old building has a history of slab leaks and has been repiped.  The final line in the slab has begun leaking.
Repiping involved piping in the attic: I want to minimize the probability of a leak for obvious reasons.
What is the thought process to decide whether to use PEX, PVC or CPVC?
I talked to a plumber's wife, who indicated he prefers PVC over PEX for repiping.


texts:
So I installed the PVC DWV lines for a wet bar and I put a temporary cap where the P-trap would go as the drywall isn't installed yet.  I took the cap off recently and I got a big whiff of that strong primer/glue smell.  It went away after that, but I tried it again later and the same thing happened.

How concerned should I be given that the warnings on the labels talk about how the fumes could be explosive?  It makes sense that the fumes would be trapped in the pipes as some of the glue will inadvertently get pushed into the pipe at sealing time.


texts: Is it safe to ground a portable generator using the house ground at the service panel?

texts: I've bought a portable generator that I'll use when the power goes out. The instructions in the paperwork state that the generator needs to be grounded before use. Can I use the house ground at the service panel to ground the generator?


texts: How do I connect a 24v air purifier to hvac?

texts: I have a MicroPure MX4 that the previous homeowner left behind new in the box.  This is a 24v unit and needs to be hardwired.  My question is can I connect the two wires to the terminal where the thermostat comes in? They read 24v.  I checked the R and C terminal for the 24v reading. OR should I connect to the blower connection?


texts: Setting up an ecobee and need to adjust HVAC wiring

texts:
My HVAC control board has two bundles of wires. One has 5 wires which runs to the thermostat but the 5th wire which I want to use as C is currently unused. The second set runs to the unit outside (condenser?).

My vague understanding is that I could just plug the unused blue wire into C beside the existing white wire and use it as C.

Here's some picture


texts: Outbuilding branched from LOAD side of GFCI

texts:
I’m usually not this guy, but I’d love to outline my plan and get opinions of what the red flags might be.
My treehouse is almost done.  It started as a primitive shelter, but is becoming more of a tiny house as I get further along.  And it’s time to upgrade from the undersized extension cord that is feeding the wiring.
Currently all power is 125’ away, coming from a “temporary” service pole with no main disconnect. It has four 20AMP circuits, two with GFCI receptacles on the panel and two GFCI receptacles in weather boxes coming out the bottom.
My buddy gave me some 6/2 AWG with ground UF wire that I hope to use that in the trench.  But I’m not ready to put in a sub-panel because I want to do it myself and—-there being no main disconnect on the panel—-I can’t see a safe way to do that without having the power company do a physical disconnect (which would mean permitting, and more attention to the treehouse, yada yada yada).
So my plan is to bury the 6/2 as well as another singular 6AWG UF (for the other hot) so that if my needs change and I can decide to put in the sub without digging anything up.
In the meantime I would connect just the 6/2 to the LOAD side of one of the external GFCI, giving me 20amps to use on the two receptacles I have wired in the treehouse.  It’s just for a mini fridge and toaster oven and to run my 12V DC lights through a power supply.  I would connect the ground to the GFCI as well as to the rod I pounded in at the base of the treehouse.
Obviously splicing 6AWG onto a GFCI load side is one odd challenge, and I’m wondering if this is the same or better or worse than just running a smaller gauge UF cable in the trench instead, or in addition to the #6 and just leaving the 6 buried but unconnected.
Regardless there will be a disconnect where the power enters the treehouse.
Anyway, hopefully that paints a picture.  Please tell me where I’m being stupid.
Thanks!


texts: How can I get a brick out of my drain pipe?

texts: There's a brick inside my outside drain, and I can't get it out. It's stuck in there, and the drain is now overflowing with all sorts of things. It's already too deep. I tried to hit it in as hard as I could, hoping I could break the brick in pieces, but no luck. I'm stuck now.


texts: Are there insulated covers available for attic fans?

texts:
I have an attic fan that leaks a lot of attic air down to the living area. Are there insulated covers that can be placed on the underside, living area side of the fan that can insulate from the attic? But can easily be removed if the attic fan is needed? Maybe something that is insulated and magnetic or has velcro?

I've checked with Home Depot and local hardware store with no luck.


texts: How can I properly remove (not cover) an unused receptacle?

texts:
First of all, if this is a duplicate question please point me in the right direction as I couldn't find one with my specific situation.

I am relocating a bathroom shower to the opposite side of the room. There is a single receptacle on one of the walls that will be the new shower location. I want to remove this. From another question, I would just need to cap off the wires and put a blank coverplate over the box . However, I can't do that as it would be in the shower.

How can I properly remove this receptacle? Can I flip the current receptacle so it is on the opposite side of the wall that it is currently on? There is a bedroom on the other side of the current receptacle's wall.


texts:
I am about to install a copper weathervane which will also work as lightning conductor (it will be mounted on top of an earthed aluminium flagpole).

Because:

exposed to weather, copper will corrode and become looking like
the Statue of Liberty; and
I want the weathervane to look white/silver/metallic

— I am looking for options to coat the weathervane with conductive metallic layer which will:

Protect copper from corrosion
Be electrically conductive
Look white/silver/metallic

Products like EMI/RFI shielding would perhaps be ideal for the purpose, but the problem is that they are not available in New Zealand, and they are classified as dangerous goods to be shipped here by ordinary mail (except for water based, but this won't be weather resistant).

I am therefore looking at making conductive coat myself from aluminium powder.

What kind of base/resin should I use?


texts: I cut the ground wire on my chandelier before knowing what it was. What do I do?

texts: I bought a home, and the kitchen nook chandelier had been shortened so it would not hang long. When I began letting it down to hang normally, I saw a brown wire that I thought was holding it up to shorten it. I cut the wire. I then learned that it was not used to shorten it, but it was the ground wire. What must I do? Will a fire start if I switch the light on?


texts: How to fix my 3 handle shower faucet, husband tried to replace?

texts: I have a 3 handle shower/tub, the hot water was leaking and my husband tried to fix it but now the hot water turns on the wrong way, the cold water like skips when u turn it on and off and the shower does the same but u cant get it to turn all the way on, water always runs out the bath and when u want to turn just the bath on it barley comes on. What could he of did wrong and could I fix it without having to buy a new kit? If u need anymore information just let me know Ill tell u anything or take pics anything to save me from spending $200 on a plumber that I know I can fix some how.


texts: Would providing shade for my air conditioner's condensor improve its efficiency?

texts:
Our house has two A/C systems; one for the bedroom level, one for the remainder of the house.  The compressor/consdensor units are outside the south side of the house, and in direct sun all day, now that a nearby tree has been removed.

Would shading the units, perhaps with a small fence, improve their efficiency?

I'm not (very) concerned with the look, as this side of the house is not visible from anywhere aside from our veggie garden.


texts: Turning a mobile home with a basement into a recording studio

texts:
I recently moved into a mobile home that has a basement. The basement was an apartment, but had multiple issues with mold and frozen/broken water pipes. The owner was prepared to demolish the entire building, but I convinced her to let me live in the top of the building and turn the bottom into a recording studio. So I have eliminated most of the broken plumbing and am now ready to start building here are my questions:
1) This is a single wide trailer, I assume the metal beams holding up the floor are enough support and that the interior walls are not supporting any weight (and therefore can be moved/removed). Is this correct?
2) There is foam insulation exposed on the ceiling of the basement. There is then a large, very cold cavity and an insulated "bag" where the plumbing pipes are held. Would it be possible to remove the foam insulation from the ceiling, in half of the basement? As removing this foam would give me an additional 3-4 inches of head space, which would greatly increase the acoustics of the room. I realize It would then probably be necessary to insulate the skirting around the trailer.
Thank you for your answers!


texts: Three sets of wires for two switches in bathroom

texts:
Need a little help please!  I’ve changed every outlet and switch in this house except this one.  When I finally got to it, I got a surprise!  Sadly, I did not take a picture or remember how it was wired before, but I know it was wired incorrectly as one part didn’t work.

What I have > Three sets of wires coming in, two with just black/white/ground and a third with black/white/red/ground.

The B/W/R controls the bathroom light.  One B/W is the bathroom vent fan and the third is tied to a light/switch on the other side of the hallway.  When I reconnected what I thought was correct, when the hallway light is on, the vent fan wont turn on.

I’ve attached a little drawing of what I have coming in.  This is going to be connected to a double switch toggle where the light is controlled on top and the fan on the bottom.  No Idea what to do with the third set of wires and how they tie in.  Just want the single pole switch on the other side to continue to work for the light as before.

The switch they’re being connected to has four posts on it, two on left and two on right.  Ground wires are all taken care of, that part is good to go!

What I know so far.

LIGHT WIRING:  Black and Red make the light go on and off.
FAN WIRING: White from fan, black from light make fan go on and off.
THIRD: Wires didn’t respond to anything, however they were turned off at the switch on the other side.

F


texts: Can I have multiple outside LED strip lights coming from one driver?

texts:
I'm in the process of buying LED strip lights and understand that I need a 'driver' (to convert from 240v to [whatever the strip lights are]).

I intend to have three strip lights, one for each step outside, so do I need three drivers or can one driver do all three?