texts: Mildewed carpeting, uninsulated flooring

texts:
Problem:

I just moved into a rented apartment.
The bedroom closet/office has carpeting which is mildewed.
It noticeably smells offensive and I am allergic to mold.

Examination:

We looked under the carpet.
At the edges, we can see that 60s style ceramic tiling was cut away,
so the room likely used to be a master bathroom.
Currently, it is layered as carpet, then padding, and then exposed floor.
Beneath that is the next floor down: an unfinished basement.

The unfinished basement is very moist,
so we assume that the moisture from the unfinished basement
is making its way through the flooring
and soaking into the carpet padding and the carpet,
creating a breeding ground for mold or mildew.

EDIT:
We checked the basement.
(The floor is concrete with roughly 1/8" layer of dirt.
Does this suggest flooding in the past?)
The walls are jagged concrete
which is brittle and crumbs off to the touch.

More related,
there's two or three 1.5' x 1.5' cuts in the ceiling
where I could only assume pipes used to run.

The cuts have since been covered on top with particle board.
The basement ceiling beams, which are large and old
are somewhat moist to the touch;
they have a very slight wet sponginess when pressed with my finger.
The particle board feels less spongy, but still has slight exterior wetness.

Resolution:

How should we approach this?
We believe the landlord, who just moved out of this apartment,
attempted to address the issue by pouring and vacuuming carpet cleaner,
but it was not enough.

We believe that if we treat the carpet,
it may not have a significant enough effect,
and worse, it will recur after a relatively small amount of time.

Thus, is it fair to request that the carpeting be completely replaced,
and that the flooring be somehow definitively insulated
against further contact with any sources of moisture?

Most importantly, in case the landlord is unsure of how to accomplish this,
what is the recommended approach to relieving such a home improvement issue?

The landlords are very nice and competent;
however, they have stated that they are from the West (US)
and are unfamiliar with basements as they have never had one before.

Would 1-2 layers of plastic lining just need to be applied
between the carpet padding and the hard flooring?
Would this be enough of a seal?


texts: How can I install Z-Wave switches in these different situations?

texts:
I am trying to install z-wave lighting switches into my apartment. What I have discovered is that every light switch in my apartment that I have taken apart (4) is wired differently. The switches I am trying to install are the GE/Jasco 45637 z-wave switches, which require a neutral wire, line wire, and load wire. Most of the switches I have encountered have neutral wires but also have other wires that I am not sure what to do with.

All switches to my knowledge are single pole.

Here are my light wiring configurations:

Light 1 - 1 line, 1 load, neutrals capped together. Would I pigtail a white wire to the neutral for this connection?

Light 2 - 1 line, 1 load - this config won't work with the switch.

Light 3 - This one is interesting. It has a red wire to the bottom screw and 2 black wires to the top screw, both coming out of the top of the box. There are also neutral wires capped together and a ground. Could I cap the two blacks and run a pigtail as well as pigtail the neutral and run the red into the bottom screw? Why would a red be there?

Light 4 - Interesting as well. This one has 3 neutral wires capped together, 1 black wire in the top push down connection and 1 black wire in the top screw and 1 black wire in the bottom, as well as ground. Any ideas here?

My main concern is to be safe, whether I install new switches or not.

Any help here would be so great.


texts: How do I cover the attic rafter bays after installing baffles from the soffit before replacing the siding?

texts: Should I be covering exposed fiberglass batts I stuffed into rafter bays below stapled in plastic baffles with an air barrier, such as with foil faced rigid foam board or house wrap, before replacing soffits and reinstalling siding?


texts: S bar 4 head light fixture 1 head not working

texts: I have a 4 head S bar light fixture that uses 50W halogen bulbs. One of the heads is not working. I have ohmed the wiringing to the head and the wires are fine. I have tried multiple bulbs that work in another head and they will not light when in this head. The sockets are the two post insert and twist to lock. Any suggestion on what it might be will be appreciated.


texts: What is the proper way to remove plywood subfloor?

texts:
I need to remove old plywood subfloor from a bathroom (the flooring above it is already gone).  What's the preferred/proper way to remove it without damaging the floor joists?

One of the methods I've heard of is to a circular saw and cut through the plywood in between the joists. If that's the case though, I'm confused on how to determine exactly where the floor joists are to begin with (presumably just look for screws/nails?).


texts: What should I use to secure/organize data cable runs?

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I am running Cat-6 and Coax in new construction.  I am looking for advice/best practices on how to organize and secure the cables during the runs.

I will be running 2 Cat-6 and 1 Coax to a single-gang box in nearly each major room.  These runs will converge at certain points as they are run into the basement.

Let's take these scenarios:

I have 3-wires running along a stud or joist (1 coax and 2 cat-6)

Would you just use a staple(s)? Why or Why not?
Should I use a cable stacker like this?

Let's say I have 6-12 wires.

Cable stackers?
I saw these things called "Cable Caddys" (below) which look nice, but cost almost $1 a piece, which got me thinking that PVC cable clamps would work just as well, for much cheaper, but I'm thinking the stackers would work better.

As all the wires (20-30) enter the basement and run along a joist, I realize I can use a raceway, but don't really want to spend the extra money.  Is there anything wrong with using a large PVC clamp, like below?


texts:
I have a LOT of computer equipment in my bonus room.  Additionally, during the summer, our HVAC system has difficulty keeping it cool (as a side note, the HVAC was replaced recently, so it is not defective - just your typical issues with a zoned system in the dead of summer).

During the summer I use a portable air conditioner to try to keep from roasting.  However, with all my equipment running, adding in the air conditioner will frequently trip the breaker, which I believe is a standard 15-amp.

If I wanted to upgrade the circuit to 20 amps or higher in order to sustain the load, I suspect it would take both a new circuit breaker and rewiring the outlets with heavier gauge wire, correct?  Anything else?


texts: How should I fill in a trench left by replacement of a sewer pipe?

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I recently had my main sewer pipe that runs underground to the main pipe replaced, and I left it open for a few days to check everything is okay, and it seems to be. This is just a small run of pipe, about 2 meters in my back garden from our house to the main shared pipe.

What is the best way to fill the trench back in (I got rid of the original soil dug up as it was contaminated with faeces)?

I have done a few google searches, but found nothing conclusive. Is pea gravel (10mm) good for a base layer to just cover the pipe? After that should I use soil/ sand? Do I have to press it all down?

I am in the UK.


texts:
I have a new Legrand dimmer switch. It has a connection for a ground.
However the box it needs to go into appears not to be grounded.
The dimmer is model LSCL453P.  The load is an LED light about 30 watts.  This is not in an office (not bathroom or kitchen).  The switch cover is plastic.
The voltage between the two wires is about 100V AC. The voltage between one wire (left in the picture) and the box is about 50V AC. The voltage between the other wire and the box is about 40V AC.

Is it going to work ok if I just connect the two wires?
Is that going to be any less safe than the alternative of just putting back the old on-off switch?

Edit:  Some more investigating, it seems that the box is at about 40 volts AC relative to ground.  So the basic premise of the question ( that the box is not grounded) is correct, but not in the way I assumed (i.e. that the box is not electrically connected to anything else in the world).  I fear this has gone beyond a DIY project and calls for on site help from a qualified electrician.
Another edit. Putting an ammeter between the box and a trusted ground gives 0.2mA at about 40V.   Resistance between the box and a trusted ground is very high. So I'm fairly sure the 40V is a parasitic voltage caused by capacitative coupling (and maybe some inductive coupling too) between the BX armour and the hot wire running through it. Likewise, past a certain point everything else on that circuit that should be grounded isn't. So now I'm back to where I started. The box simply isn't grounded. The lesson for me is to check both the voltage and amperage against a trusted ground.  Just for safety's sake, not to mention getting the dimmer to work, I'm going to ensure that everything that should be grounded is.


texts: What hardware would I use to attached this tight to a wall?

texts: This plaque has two screw holes in the back. I would like to mount it tight to my wall, but I don't know how to attach it to the wall.


texts: I would Like to hang some pendant lights from my ceiling. I want to use this wire. I would only put one bulb (like this)  on each length of cord and connect them all to the 12-2 at the ceiling. Is this going to work or will I burn my house down? also is there a limit to how long my cord length can be


texts: LED bulbs failing alongside fluorescent tubes

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I have four LED GU10 lamps in pendant fittings on the same circuit with six fluorescent tubes in my workshop, all 240 V mains. I have noticed high failure rate in the LED bulbs.
I think this could be because of an interaction with the fluorescent tubes.
Should they be on separate circuits, or do I just have a batch of poor quality LED bulbs?


texts: Condensation on HVAC, mold on joists/subfloor in basement

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I have heavy condensation on the plenum and supply line near an exterior wall/window in my unfinished basement. I have mold and moisture on my subfloor and joists just in this 3 sections. I sealed up all of the major HVAC leaks there with mastic and HVAC tape, trying to dry out the subfloor before treating it for mold.
The humidity by that window is 70%, by the next window over it is 52%. I can't feel any warm air coming in around it? This section is a cantilever for our master.
[url=https://ibb.co/X5HkjL4][img]https://i.ibb.co/X5HkjL4/20200728-192355.jpg[/img][/url]


texts: Why Does My Heil Furnace Start When It Should Be Off?

texts:
My Heil furnace starts with the thermostat set to off. I disconnected the thermostat wires at the thermostat and it still starts randomly.  I disconnected the heating wire at the board and it still does it.  So I guess it is not a short.

The board does not throw any code that can be read after it starts then stops.  It does flash 4 in the middle of a random start which is main limit or rollout 'open'.

It does not light or try to light; both fans just turn on.  It may stay on for 5 minutes or 5 seconds and it is very random.  (Though 15-20 seconds is typical.) It might cycle on/off 10 time in 5 min or just one every couple of hours for 20 seconds.

Any ideas?


texts: Where should I attach the blower motor leads on a Payne air handler?

texts:
About 8 months ago my daughter's Payne PF1MNB036000AAAAA air handler quit working. The blower would not come on.  I decided that it needed a new board so since she needed heat I disconnected the blower leads, one yellow and one blue and attached a cord to it to provide 110vac power to the blower making it run all the time.  I then ordered a new board.

I have just now got around to putting in the new board but forgot where I disconnected the yellow and blue motor leads (have female disconnects).  I think the blue one attaches to the black relay on the board but I can't figure out where the yellow one clips onto a male connector.  Help, please.


texts: I noticed this spacing on floor behind stove, seal it?

texts: I noticed this spacing behind the stove, on the floor between wall and floor.  Is this normal? Should I seal it with something?


texts:
I've got a drain assembly like the 2nd image in
This answer.

My problem is exactly like the one in that question except I'm trying to fix the non-working assembly instead of unclog the drain.   it is stuck in the open position.  I removed the face plate and the rod doesn't pull out like I see in the countless videos online.  I tried using a pair of pliers to pull up on the rod but it won't budge.

Thoughts?


texts: Is a cracked roof title considered cosmetic

texts: I'm in the inspection step when buying a new property. The inspector found a few cracks on the roof. It's a tile roof and is 23 years old. A roof leak was found but it only reaches the attic... How much time realistically before I need a new roof and are the cracked titles considered cosmetic or should they be fixed or credited before I close?


texts: Split Gas Line to Gas Water Heater for Gas Dryer

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I'd like to install a gas dryer by splitting the gas line that currently feeds the gas water heater.  Is the solution as simple as splitting the line with a tee fitting/valve where the green arrow points?  Any other parts needed?

Stacked washer/dryer would go here:


texts: What's the true longevity of exposed fastener metal roofs?

texts:
I want to replace my roof. Exposed-fastener metal roofs are popular and common where I live, but nobody nearby has owned one long enough to really comment on the longevity. I worry that over time, the metal's thermal expansion and contraction with ambient temperature changes will eventually enlarge the screw holes to the point where a million tiny leaks will appear. That doesn't sound good. It seems that rubber or neoprene washers are used to alleviate this danger but that seems like putting a band-aid on it.

For this reason, I'm looking at metal shingle and standing seam roofs, but both are more expensive. Are my concerns about an exposed-fastener metal roof justified? Or are we talking about a difference in longevity of like 50 compared to 100 years?


texts: What is this mountable adjustable clamp for a pipe called?

texts: I am looking for the terminology that I can use in order to find one of these clamps to buy online. I can mount it on wood and then tighten it to keep a pipe in place.


texts:
An old house is in the process of being signed over to me.  The house has been neglected for several years and I have begun trying to fix the place up.  The front of the house has been victim of a severely leaky roof for several years and the water damage/mold problem is pretty severe.  The roof has just been replaced and the leak resolved.

There are two bedrooms affected and the whole front wall of the house in these two rooms are moldy.  I've begun striping away all of the materials I can, such as insulation, paneling, window frames, ceiling tiles, etc., but some of the materials I cannot remove, because it's the front of the house and I can't tear down the whole front of the house.

That said, would it be acceptable to spray mold killer (or rather, soak) the affected areas and paint over it with a mold preventative paint?  I'm worried this will not be sufficient, as the affected area is severe and I'm not sure I can even access everything.  Finances are limited, so I'm unable to pay a professional to complete the project for me.  Not sure how fast mold spreads or how long it takes to grow, but would this be an acceptable remedy for a few years to come?  How reliable ARE these mold killing chemicals I see online?

Sorry such a long post, but since I have eliminated the source of the leak, will this help kill off the mold?


texts: Latch locks when door handle pulled down

texts: Had our front door repainted (simply took off hinges and then replaced).  Now, when you open the door by pulling handle down the latch stays stuck such that you can't open it from the other side.  You have to pull up on the handle to release it and then the door can again be opened.  Any thoughts?


texts: Whats the best way to support an 18'-6" span of load bearing wall, so a LAM Beam can be installed?


texts:
I'm looking for a simple way to partition an area in my garage to be a TV/Game room for the kids.
I don't want to build a "real" permanent room. But I would like it to have, as much as possible, a nice cozy feel to it.
The first level I was looking at was just getting some partitions like this the picture below. Any idea for something more appropriate would be welcomed.


texts:
I seem to be dealing with a tenacious and stupid bird—tenacious for twice rebuilding its nest, and stupid because that location is inherently unstable for a nest, or so I think. From the movement of a suspected bird hovering on a nearby tree, I believe the bird in question is an American Robin.

As much as I like the idea of a bird finding refuge near my house, and as much as I liked to offer space all the way until the hatching season is long over for a nest over the outdoor (but unused) speakers in my backyard, I know from experience that some birds can be pests. Pigeons are territorial, are very dirty, and are impossible to shoo off once they establish their territory.

The first time I saw it I pushed the nest away and put the strands in the leaf container nearby. (An open bag of tree leaves only acts as an invitation to birds and more). The bird returned immediately and asserted its space by building another nest. I tried again, ever so gently, to point out that this is really not the right place 1- because the residents really do not want to be attacked every time they step out of their front door (the bird could consider their passage trespassing so close to the bird's sanctuary), and 2- the bar holding the lamp in place is much too thin to act as adequate support for a nest.

Hence the second time I both pulled the nest down and added a plastic bag on top of the lamp to make it harder to access that spot, and more slippery to build on top. As you see in the picture, the bird dropped the bag down and rebuilt.

How do I tell this bird to nest elsewhere?

I may have an even more serious problem from the wasp nest you see in the picture. I believe it is uninhabited, or at least no longer inhabited. (In a previous incident I've seen that they make their presence known, if they're inside.) But I'll handle these nature elements one at a time. They're too strong for me.


texts: What could have caused these cracks on the ceiling and wall?

texts:
Today I went to inspect an an unit which I want to buy but I am concerned as there are visible cracks on the walls and ceiling. The unit is located on the top floor of a 3 storey unit building, is made out of brick, and it looks like it is 25 year old.
What I noticed is that the bathroom and kitchen need to be repaired as water is constantly running, and taps are leaking, so the environment feels that is moist. Most likely I was thinking I might need to renovate, but the most concerning part are the cracks on the ceiling and walls. Pictures attached.
Can anyone give me some advice, please? I am wondering if it is an structural damage.
Thanks in advance.


texts: How do I prevent mold in drywall mud pail?

texts:
I just opened my pail of drywall mud and discovered mold on the sides. It has been a few months since I last opened it. This happened to me a few years ago. I tried using the mud anyway, but the bad odor persisted in the dried mud. I had to toss that pail of mud. As a work-around, I've been using 20 minute mud powder, but that was going to be inconvenient for a somewhat larger project I had recently. How do I prevent mold from growing in the bucket?

Edit: I wonder if I sprayed (light mist) a mix of chlorine (Clorox) and water onto the sides and surface of the mud?


texts: Can't get boiler to stop heating! It's 80 degrees in the house

texts:
I have two boiler systems. One for the heating of the house, and one for sink/shower hot water.
The boiler for the house will not turn off! It does kick on and off for a duration of time like it should, but the problem is that it shouldn't be kicking on at all anymore.
Thermostat is set at 60, turned off, and even the safety switch on the boiler unit is set to off. But it is STILL kicking on every 20 minutes or so.
It's 77 degrees outside... And 80 inside. I'm not only staying very hot even with air conditioner units going, and my pets aren't comfortable either, but I'm wasting money at this point.
How can I get it to stop! Asap?:


texts:
So, I was around my partners house the other day and they have a light on the landing that does not work - I don't think it has ever worked since they moved into the house and being an electronic engineer I assumed it would be an easy fix so I tried to have a look at it and hence fix it but I could not for the life of me figure out what the problem is. I have taken a few photos and with those and information I provide I hope someone will be able to help me out with this but I won't hold my breath as two electricians have had a look and both have failed.

Anyway, the attention from the electricians was focused on the light itself so I decided I would check out the light switch instead - it is a two gang switch and the other light that is attached to it works fine but I couldn't see anything obviously wrong and I looked at the light itself as well and still not luck with that side of things.
Below are a couple of images of the light switch innards which might help shed some light on the situation for some people:

So I think my main problem that I had is that I didn't actually know which colours were which and what they did but this is what I assumed after researching but really have no idea:

Red - Live
Blue - Neutral
Yellow - Earth
Black - Three-phase: L2

It might be worth mentioning that I live in the UK so it is a UK wiring system - not sure how old the house is hence my confusion when trying to work out what each colour means.

The light that isn't working is connected to the L2 side (the bottom of both images) and the only difference I can notice is that it doesn't have a black lead going into it... I am no expert and have only wired a light switch once (didn't exactly go very well but that's a whole other story) so don't really know if there is anything wrong with these images at all so to cover all bases I have also taken pictures of the light and how that is wired up (I apologise in advance for the low quality of the pictures):

If anyone can identify a problem with either sides then please share your insight as it is quite annoying that it doesn't work.
If there is any more information that anyone needs, leave a comment and I will do my best to obtain it - including better images of other things if need be!

Oh I just remembered that there is a second switch for this light which I have an image for below:

Blue and black are for L1 and red is L2, yellow is common.


texts: how can I check to see if a 4" slab of concrete was actually poured?

texts: I had a driveway poured three years ago. After a crack in the walkway appeared and two more developed in the driveway itself, my husband began to get suspicious that I wasn't given a 4" slab. If we dig around the side of the drive and measure the concrete, should it be 4"? or could it settle to a little over 3".


texts: I have a.Lennox furnace not sure of the model it was installed in the basement in 2008 also.has.  a/c connected . but I noticed my house was getting a lil cold so I messed with the thermostat and it didn't kick on so I turned the hear all the way down and then turned the power off like most things that works but not this time, after I turned the power back on it started blowing cold air then it makes a click noise like something else was supposed to start blowing but than it made another click and continued for a few minutes than it just goes off. I also noticed the red and green lights flash at the same time while running but when it goes off they blink one after another. If anyone can help is appreciate it its winter and cold in Utah just noticed it at 8:00 pm????????;;


texts: Covering damaged wood cabinet under sink

texts:
The bottom face of the wood cabinet under the kitchen sink has lots of water damage from leaks with the previous owner.

I'd like to cover over this wood. However, because I also want to put in a retractable trashcan under sink, the cover cannot be particularly thick (so for example, I can't just buy any old piece of wood and place it over the existing surface as that may severely reduce the available height under the sink).

I was thinking of covering the surface with a sheet of laminate that has a similar wood appearance.

What would be the best solution for this?


texts: Why do basement walls need less insulation than crawlspace walls?

texts:
I used this DoE calculator:

http://web.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_16.html

For Washington, DC, it recommended R25 for crawlspace walls and R11 for basement walls.  Why would they be different?  What is the recommended value for above-grade vs below-grade concrete block walls?


texts:
I bought an older house (1917) that had renovations done in 2009. I was in the basement earlier today with the oil delivery man and I noticed some of the support beams splitting. The inspector never said anything about the support beams so it may be nothing or maybe he just didn't do a good job. I've included pictures.

I guess I'm just curious if this is problematic or how long do you think these will last before needing to be replaced?


texts: What's the correct way to attach stovepipe to a wood stove?

texts:
Look where the stovepipe sits on the flue collar of this woodstove. I don't see any way to secure the pipe to the stove. There is a gap because the stovepipe is not perfectly round.

At the other end of the stovepipe I will use 3 sheetmetal screws, but that won't work here.

The manufacturer's manual for the stove doesn't say anything.

How should I secure the stovepipe to the stove?

How should I seal the joint?

(click for full size)


texts:
I recently took down undesired sliding doors (solid wood, of some variety) to put up bi-fold doors in their place. In looking at new bi-fold doors it occured to me that I might be able to put the detailing I am seeing in the new options, into the old doors and just buy the appropriate sliding hardware. This is preferrable for environmental reasons. However I am unsure whether there is wood that cannot be used with a router, similar to how manufactured wood is hard to reshape out of the form of it's manufacture.

Can anyone advise:

1) How one can determine wood type?

2) Any wood types that are probably best not to have DIY detailing put into them?


texts: General Questions On Exterior House Painting

texts:
I have a 100+ year old two story house with wood siding that the paint starting to chip off.  I have a couple general questions regarding the project that I am hoping you can assist.

1)  I am not super fond of heights so I am looking for an alternative to using an extension ladder.  I would love to use some scaffolding but this project will likely take me several weeks and I am looking to not spend a ton of money.  I am considering buying a tall (15-20 ft) a-frame step ladder.  Would that be a decent solution?

2)  I am pretty sure the last time it was painted, the previous owner used a flat latex paint.  Should I use that again or would a semi-gloss be a better long term solution?

3) Brush vs sprayer.  Is it possible to get a good, solid coat of paint with a sprayer?  I would love to avoid doing this again in a couple years LOL


texts: How do I discharge the capacitor of my refrigerator?

texts: In order to avoid electric shock, I need to discharge the capacitor of my refrigerator before working on it.  How do I do it, and where can I buy an appropriate power resistor?


texts:
My hot tub shuts down with error code "dr" which my manual says is:

  Possible inadequate water, poor flow, or air bubbles in detected in
  heater.  Spa is shut down for 15 minutes.

The sequence of events is:

jets turn on and flow is good.
about a minute later bubbler turns on.
about 5 seconds later the heater turns on.
about 3 seconds later the tubs shuts down with error code "dr"

I was just restarting the tub and there was rainwater that had gotten dirty so I figured there was crap in the heater so I opened up the pipe and looked in.  It seems surprisingly clean.

What else can I check before I call a pro?

Should I just keep trying it to see if it will eventually work itself out?


texts: Can I create concrete driveway with forms to get the paver stone look without the need for all the aggregate beneath?

texts:
We are in desperate need of repaving our backyard that serves as a parking lot in addition to redoing our driveway. After weighing the pros and cons and taking in aesthetics we are interested in doing concrete. We don't want a completely solid concrete look. We do not want to go with pavers because that seems a lot more involved with removing another 8 or more inches of soil below the existing ground line to install the appropriate layers of compacted aggregate before finally putting the pavers on top.

From what I've seen on YouTube videos, masonry pros who do this type of work all day remove existing cracked concrete, compact the soil, add rebar for support and then pour new concrete onto the ground into forms that are 4 to 6" deep. As it stands now we currently have a pretty thin layer of asphalt with tons of cracks all over that can be broken up and removed with a shovel.

What I'd like to know is if I can do this approach by pouring concrete into my forms, but I'd like to create a 'giant' paver look with minimal space in between. This is sort of the look I'm talking about:

The space in between my pavers will probably be the thickness of my 2x4's that I'll use to create my forms. I'd like to do this look for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it would make it a lot easier for me to work with such a large area as I can do a little bit at a time.

First, We share a property with another owner and there are three cars I'm going to have work around as I conquer this project.

Second, as it stands now since the parking lot is currently cracked and broken up asphalt rain doesn't accumulate and goes right into the ground beneath. The parking lot is approximately 36x60ft. It would not be smart to make this a solid concrete parking lot without a designated water drain. When it rains the water will have nowhere to go.

My question are: Can I lay concrete with my design idea in mind but approach it as if I were just laying concrete on freshly compacted ground? I'll use my forms and apply ether the appropriate gauge mesh or rebar for reinforcement. Or do I have to lay down an aggregate first like I would with smaller pavers; which is something I don't want to do.

I'd also want to use some landscape weed barrier fabric between the 2" spaces of my pavers to prevent weeds from growing through them. And instead of planting grass I'm just going to use garden mulch that will be extend into the planted landscaped areas along the sides of our parking lot.

Are my ideas doable?


texts: How to automate a window to open & closed by remote commands

texts:
I'm a software developer. I would like to be able to open and close my window automatically when there is a noise outside. So first I need a Wifi Microphone, that will stream the audio to my PC. Then I need an app that will listen and if there is noise more than specific decibels for several seconds, the window should be closed. Then if there is quiet, the window should open.

I'm not asking how to develop the software to analyze the audio and decide what to do. I'm asking about the hardware. For the microphone, I believe it won't be hard to find a microphone to Lan, or even Wifi Microphone (I'm open to recommendations). But for the robot hand that will open and close the window where should I start to look for it?

I have Googled: "Smart window" and found irrelevant links. Also search for "Smart window open close" and not found something that I can buy.

I'm open to do it myself. What kind of a motor do I need for that? Motor than can open/close using a command from a Wifi/Lan.

I have a window similar to this:


texts: Window AC unit LCDI tripping when powered by my solar inverter

texts:
I have a small 200w solar power system consisting of a Victron 500VA inverter (900w peak) with a 100ah AGM battery.

I just purchased a 5000BTU/4 amp window unit that draws a peak of 430w according to my meter. I thought it would be luxurious to be able to run it for an hour or two during the heat of the day when the battery is full and the panels have nothing better to do.

The AC runs fine from an extension cord plugged into mains, but the millisecond I switch to inverter power, the LCDI at the end of the cord trips...why is that?

Is it because my inverter isn't grounded?

Could I overcome this by removing the LCDI?

Is removing the LCDI a terrible idea? (it will be used just inside of an RV with some ducting+venting)

Is my inverter just not strong enough? Just noticed a max continuous output could be as low as 350w at very high temps...but it doesn't even seem to get a chance to invert before the circuit is broken.

Thanks!


texts: Is this shower trap better than a P-Trap?

texts:
Here in Brazil almost all shower and floor drains are made using a device that translate as "siphoned box" and work as a trap collecting water from the sink, tub and shower.

Is that any better (or worse) than a P-Trap?

EDIT: One advantage of this system, is that rings or earrings that get collect usually stays at the bottom of this device, which makes it easy to retrieve it. Also, is provides a easy access to another inspection point in the plumbing.

BTW: How prevalent are floor drain in bathrooms and laundry areas? In Brazil every laudryroom have a drain and some bathrooms have another drain besides the one in the shower. I heard that in Europe and US that is very rare.


texts: How can I add insulation to my attic cheaply and safely?

texts:
I currently have 6 - 8 inches of cellulose blown in insulation in my attic.  I live in Michigan and energystar.gov is recommending a total of R49 - 60.  From what I can tell only have about R19-25 based on the chart in the link below.  I need to increase my R-value as cheaply as possible.  I live in an old farmhouse (circa 1910) and have plaster ceilings and am concerned that if I get up there to add some fiberglass batt insulation I may crack some plaster simply by walking on the joists or accidentally put my foot through since I cannot see through the cellulose to the joists.  Any suggestions?

http://www.greatdayimprovements.com/insulation-r-value-chart.aspx


texts: Re-do paint over plaster in bathroom: How to feather/match?

texts:
I want to understand what went wrong, and how to repair it:

This bathroom in a loft was done in 2012. The plasterwork is really good --- smooth and shiny; but the last year or so the paint (Dulux Trade, 2-3coats) has been peeling off. It has all been done by builders that have wrecked a series of things, so it hardly surprises me [their plastering subcontractor was great].

This is how much I can easily remove with a flat 4inch scraping blade, it peeled in large smooth flaps getting smaller and more brittle towards the edge.

I guess it should have been Bathroom paint, but I know they first did a 'mist coat'. So how do I match the white & chocolate areas? Should I scrape a straight edge with a knife or so all around the peeling area and then scrape all paint off up to that line (so the patch is a rectangle or near enough)? Or just remove the 'island' (caused by a repair, as they put the ventilator there originally).

Should I sand down the sharp edges now, then re-paint 2-3layers, then sand down the transition again, and then give the whole room a layer?

I suspect the paint higher up where the ceiling flattens off is also loose (because the same surfaces and products, and the hot moist air pools up there around ineffective ventilator).

Looking at the other 'peeling paint' questions, this is a much higher-moisture situation. And I'm guessing PVA-sealing doesn't do anything, because of the high PVA content of the plaster (UK standard practice) or does it still?


texts:
I removed a chimney from my house earlier this year. After everything was cleaned up, I was left with this big hole:

I have two questions: (1) How do I know what type of concrete to use? (2) How do I prep the hole before pouring/placing the concrete?

Some info: The hole is in my garage. It's about 2 or 3 feet deep. Surrounded on three sides by chimney brick and one side by the crawlspace foundation of my house. The bottom is dirt. The garage cement is pretty smooth, which you can see from the picture.


texts:
I'm looking for a way to easily fill my wheelchair tires to 90 psi. I understand that I don't understand all the technical stuff I should consider when buying a small compressor or a tire inflator, and frankly, my head is spinning from it all.

Originally, I thought I could get away with just an inflator, but it appears to me that very few of them have a minimum psi above 90. And I'm suspicious that those numbers are inflated. I feel like the descriptions don't give me enough info. I'm having such trouble comparing all of them! Adding in the small compressors--I just can't figure this out.

If I do need to go the compressor route, which I think I do, I have some restrictions in noise level and space. Some don't list if they're belt-driven, and I just don't know enough to extrapolate the missing info. Sizewise, I'm confused by the fact that sometimes smaller tanks show higher CFM than others and vice versa.

I'm not looking for someone to try to explain all this to me, I guess I'm looking for someone to just advise me of what numbers am I looking for. By way of example:

Would a pancake compressor which states "2.0 SCFM delivered @ 90 PSI pump, 3.5 gallon tank and 135 max PSI" work for my needs?
Is one that says "200 PSI 3.0 CFM 2.5 gal 71.5 dB" going to be too much?

Can someone just give me ballpark numbers to look for? I hope this makes sense to someone.

Thanks so much for your time!

Betsey

P.S. With the numbers you give me, could you possibly tell me what additional types of uses it might have, if any?  Thanks so much!


texts: What is the best way to clean a dryer vent?

texts:
I posted this questions 6 months ago..

Why does it take my dryer 3 hours to dry a load of clothes?

I checked the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. They are operational. I have seen different ways professionals clean dryer vent ductwork. Coit services used a portable compressor to blow air into the vent the push out lint. There was a good amount that came out.
But I have seen another method where they used a rod with rotating brush that push out lint. I am thinking of hiring someone to do it this way. Is this a better way than what Coit did?

My tenant last said the timning of drying has improved form 3 hours down to 2 hours. I'm not sure how long of dryer vent ductwork she had at her previous residence. I can understand if she had a dryer close to an exterior wall with a 1 foot of dryer vent. I may have to ask her that. Everything is relative. If there is a longer run of duct it should take longer to dry no? Any feedback would be appreciated. We really want to take care of this tenant because they are nice people.


texts: Is an 'exterior' California corner acceptable?

texts: I know the top California corner is acceptable (and preferred for insulation advantages), but is the bottom corner a sound technique?


texts: A surge protector for an AC split unit powered by a Siemens EQ Loadcenter

texts:
Late last summer my 4 year old AC unit fried its mainboard and the company which installed it originally came to service it. They suggested that the reason could be a surge, as they had a rash of calls in my area.

This season I wanted to install a surge protector and did some googling to find a few, which install into the breaker slot on the loadcenter. Do they replace a breaker? Or, if they do not, where should the breaker be then?


texts: Locating buried electrical cable/conduit in yard

texts:
Our house, which we purchased about a year ago, has a shed in the back of the yard which has electricity and is roughly 100 ft away from the main house. From what I can tell the previous owner had cable run to the shed through a conduit that exits the house at the closest exterior corner. I see the same conduit exiting the house and entering the shed.

My problem is that I have no idea what path the previous owner took to run the cable out to the shed, or if the conduit is even at code rated depth, and we're looking to do some landscaping and possible run a water line out near the shed. I'm assuming 811 isn't going to locate privately run cables in the ground, so is there a tool or service I can use for this? Just based on the unknowns I would prefer to stay away from the conduit entirely.


texts: Delay in light turning on when switch flipped

texts: What causes a delay in a light when I flip the switch? It is a led bulb and it is the second one in a circuit of four. I changed the light and it still does it. I also checked all the wiring to see if it was tight and had a good ground. Whats next?


texts: How much pressure does it take to blow water out of a fire sprinkler in a 4-6 foot arc?

texts: I am trying to replace a water pump that we have on a confined space simulator that will pump water from an open 55 gallon tank to a pair of fire sprinklers to simulate a pressurized chemical release. I have never seen this unit in action, so I am not sure how much pressure it takes to blow the water out in 4-6 foot arches...they originally had a 1/12 hp Flotec FPOF360ac pump, but said it didnt have enough psi, and eventually they burned the pump up. I need help.


texts:
When I see a short wire, what can I do? There are close to ceiling junction boxes on top of the outlets where the wires come from, should I pull the short wire back into them and splice them with new long wires to extend them? Like with a twister on or wago connector?

Or should I try to rewire and replace the entire length of the wire coming from the apartments breaker? I'm tempted to try this because in one of the junction boxes I see black oily grime like char on the shielding of same wires, which leads me to think are somepoint something exploded in there.


texts: Why does my Rinnai Infinity water heater fire up after turning off the cold tap?

texts:
I have a Rinnai Infinity XR20.  It's about 3 years old.  I've just recently noticed a peculiar issue with it that I hadn't noticed before.  If I turn on a cold tap like the one to the garden hose and then turn it off, the unit momentarily fires.

I've verified this occurs now on all cold taps in the house even those that aren't connected to the hot via a mixer.

My guess is it's the shock wave caused by water hammer which is causing the unit to think that water has started flowing when it hasn't.

I asked my local plumber and he agrees but isn't able to offer a solution.  He says he hasn't seen this problem before and will ask around for me.  In the mean time I rang up Rinnai and the technician suggested I could fit a non-return valve on the outflow of the Infinity.  However, that doesn't make sense to me.

What suggestions do you have to fix it?  Should I fit a water hammer arrestor to the inflow of the infinity?


texts: How do I fix a broken window in my aluminum framed sunroom?

texts:
A lower window is broken in my aluminum framed sunroom, as shown in this 33 second video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLQfd0FPwYU

Will I need to:

drill out rivets
take apart the whole section of wall
cut a custom size of glass, etc?

Or do the windows come pre-framed in standardized sizes?


texts: How can I drill my wall if it contains flint?

texts:
I live in an old victorian house.  Some of the walls seem to have pebbles inside then you get so far and there is flint, the drill won't go any further.  Its a nightmare putting anything on the wall!

Is there anything I can use to drill through this stone?!!  Thanks!


texts: On which hinge(s) should hinge pin doorstops be installed?

texts:
My solid doors have three hinges. On some of them I need to use hinge pin stops.
On which hinge(s) should doorstops be installed?


texts:
My electric keeps tripping. It's the upstairs lighting trip switch and the main trip that goes.

Now obviously your automatic thought is maybe a bulb blowing or some such thing, however, it tripped a few times yesterday and then again at 4am. We were all asleep and no lights were on or switches used.

After turning the circuit back on this morning, half an hour later it did it again. I really don't understand what's going on. I've tried this evening to turn on all the upstairs lights and turned them off again and nothing has happened.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.


texts: I tripped a 20amp breaker but didn't feel a shock - why?

texts:
I was stripping a hot ungrounded conductor while a 20A breaker was on by accident. When my wire strippers pierced the sheathing, a large spark blew out and tripped a breaker, but yet I felt nothing. There's a possibility that somehow that the hot wire got stripped AND the ground wire was touching the other end of my strippers and created a ground fault. I don't believe the ground wire was touching my strippers, but the idea of me creating a path for 20 amps to flow from my hand to the ground tells me that I wouldn't be here blabbing about this question. I just can't see how I wasn't shocked at all.

I've drawn out a highly realistic depiction of me on the day this happened. Please try not to get caught up on why things are the way they are and focus on the question at hand. There is a main breaker panel (grounded/bonded), then it feeds a sub panel (ungrounded / not bonded), and from there is where the circuit ends.


texts: I'm perplexed by this. Why does my shower turn on when I turn on the hot water  in the bathroom sink? I lose water pressure when I turn on the sink, then the shower turns on. Any ideas?


texts: How can I install a pendant light fixture on a cathedral ceiling with no attic space?

texts: My house has an integrated ceiling/roof with exposed rafters... the ceiling/roof is sloped and surfaced with V-edged 2" redwood boards over 4x6 rafters 4' on center.  I want to hang a pendant light over the dining room area (unfortunately right in between two rafters).  Do I need to mount raceway to a surfaced-mounted junction box? What type of junction box exisst for this implementation (that doesn't look like a rough piece of hardware)?


texts:
I've just purchased some 12V LED MR-16 bulbs, intending to use them to replace the existing 12V Halogen MR-16 bulbs in my bathroom. I have found, much to my chagrin, that the LED bulbs seem to have different supply requirements.

What do I need to do in order to replace the halogen bulbs with the LED bulbs I've purchased?

The circuit to which the bulbs connect is 12V. Mains voltage is 240V here. To the best of my knowledge the LED bulbs are driver-less. Do I need to install a driver between each socket and the bulb, or does it just need to be somewhere on the 12V circuit? I do not have access to the 240V-12V transformer, even if I felt comfortable manipulating it.

I have tried the following configurations for the 4 sockets in my bathroom:

4 Halogen
2 Halogen, 2 LED
4 LED
1 LED

In each case the halogens act as would be expected: on when I switch the power on, off when I switch the power off.

When I switch on the power: The LEDs flash on, then go off and stay off.

When I switch off the power: LEDS stay off.


texts: Garage Sensors Work Separately but Not Together?

texts:
Genie Intellicode IS Series, it had a previous owner.

Sensors mounted in garage but not electrically connected (door closed by holding down button).

Attached the sensors to the opener. The indication lights were completely off, nothing... so decided to get new sensors and re-do the wiring.

Next, bought new Genie Safe-T-Beam Replacement Kit sensors and did new wiring.

For the wires, I took the same wire position from each sensor and twisted them together at the very end where connected to the openers electrical ports #3 and #4 (Figure 3-5 B in Genie manual link above).

When connected, one sensor will blink red - the other sensor completely off.

According to Lester's Trouble Shooting Guide (fyi word file):

If,

  Sensor 1: Red LED light: 2 blinks, pause (repeat)

  Sensor 2 Green LED Light: OFF

  Wire to sensor missing or bad

However, if I connect only Sensor 2 to the openers ports (and not Sensor 1) the green light will come on.

So this tells me the wiring to that sensor is working.

Why would the sensors not work when connected in pair?

Any help is appreciated.


texts:
we have converted a farm shed into a pottery shed. We've added joists, flooring ,windows, heat ( wood burning stove, )small air conditioner.
I'm getting ready to add the insulation in the walls ( R13)Kraft faced. The wall on one side of the shed is galvanized metal . The sun BAKES this wall.I was wanting to wrap the inside of pottery studio ( shed) with plastic sheeting after I install the insulation. From outside in .. metal wall, insulation , kraft facing inside,  plastic sheeting. Should I do the plastic sheeting or no ?


texts: 50 amp circuit breaker for a 30 amp electric oven?

texts:
My new 30 amp (240v) oven tripped a 50 amp breaker, and now will not heat.  The warranty repair is happening, but here's my question: should I just put in a 30 amp breaker to protect the oven
from breaking?  (Note, I'm not worried about the wiring -- everything is rated for 50 amps)


texts: What could be causing my daughter’s hot water tank to run out of hot water all of a sudden?  She’s lived in this house for 2 years and never had a problem. She’s on City water system. Pressure seems the same throughout house. What could this be?


texts: Looking purchase this house, however, want to remove the bar and closets in "red", could that whole area be removed, or are those load-bearing/structural walls? The original structure for this house was a single story and these current plans are the proposed extension, upwards. Any help will be really appreciated.


texts: A 5 amp fuse keeps popping at startup on my tempstar furnace,had a problem a couple weeks ago and put fuse in and worked fine.Now it blows instantly.


texts:
I have a dual 3 pin plug socket which one of them is not working now. Previously, all I had to do was to kind of palm-slap onto the plug of my laptop a couple of times to get it working and sometimes would hear some small electrifying noises but as the time goes, the method gradually became useless.

What should I do now? Should I go get another dual 3 pin plug socket faceplate or there could be something else wrong with the whole electrical wiring system?

Thanks!


texts: Does Inverter refrigerator need automatic voltage regulator?

texts:
I just recently bought LG inverter refrigerator. I am just wondering if I still need to purchase AVR - automatic voltage regulator during brown outs to protect my newly bought appliance?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
I was replacing a current 4 way switch with some GE Z-Wave switches when I noticed something strange. The dead end switch box has a Romex cable with Red/White/Black/Ground wires. At the next switch box the Romex is Red/Red/Black/Ground. There is continuity between the 3 wires.

What are the possible scenarios here? I have searched and haven't found another switch, I haven't found what would appear to be another load. Could it just be a splice somewhere between the 2 switch boxes?

EDIT:

The main switch box has Load and Line, and a Romex bundle heading to switch box #1.

Switch box #1 has 2 romex going in. 3 of the lines are continuous (measured by meter) from the main switch box. The second Romex that leaves this box is Red/Red/Black/Ground.

Switch Box #2 has 1 romex in. The colors are Red/Black/White/Ground. They are continuous with the 3 wires that are Red/Red/Black/Ground in Switch Box #1.

So the question is Main Box -> Box #1 - > ? (Continuous wires, but change color) -> Box #2

Edit #2:

Above is the middle box. You can see in the top middle section of the box the 2 traveler romex bundles comming in. One from the main switch box, and the other from the dead end box. Both romex have red wires that were wire nutted together. They also both had black and what seems to be red, with white paint on it going to the switch.

Edit #3

Above is the main box. The black wire was spliced to Line. The red wire was spliced to Load (the light). the top left Romex in the box has continuity to the middle box. It has a red/black/something that appears to be red with white paint.

I don't have a picture of the 3rd box and I'm on travel for work this week. The 3rd box was the dead end and had a simple switch with a 12/3 romex with Red/Black/White(with a black line) that had continuity with one of the middle box's Romex (Red/Black/pink?).


texts: Why are there metal tabs protruding from my poured concrete foundation walls?

texts: What are these metal things sticking out from my basement walls? Can they be removed? If so, how?


texts: Well water in whole-house water filter turning green

texts:
I've been adding windows to my outdoor shed housing my well and water filter.  The filter looks like the image below.

After adding these windows, I'm now noticing the inside of the filter is green, which I'm attributing to the water now being in sunlight.

We haven't noticed any taste/color/smell issues, but I am concerned about the color.

Do I need to bleach the well, or is cleaning the filter assembly sufficient?


texts: Strange intermittent popping sound from floorboards

texts:
I hear a strange sound from the floorboards. I made a recording of it which you can hear here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1idaOVQx1O4OhvbT2lnnJm-lqSgdSJrQJ/view?usp=sharing
Here is what I know about the sound:

It happens only at night (which makes it specially annoying since it disturbs my sleep and makes it harder to diagnose).
It happens at irregular intervals. Sometimes I will go hours without hearing it and sometimes I will hear it several times in a minute.
It comes from a part of the floor which has loose floorboards.
It comes from a part of the floor next to the heater.

I have a wooden floor. What could be causing this sound?


texts:
I've had a 50' fish tape for close to 30 years. (It's been used lightly.) On my last use, as I was rolling it back up, it got to be really, really difficult to roll back into its case with about 10' to go. I unrolled it and noticed that it had a bunch of bends in it and those were making it tough to roll back up.
My first thought was to unbend it, but, sadly, there are a whole series of them. When laid out, there are no kinks - it looks like a bunch of waves. I think it got caught on a joint in conduit and my attempts to push past that wrinkled it with each shove. Poor technique on my part, I'm sure.
I plan to cut off the damaged bit and attempt to bend a curve back into the leading end as similar as possible to what's currently there.
This is a 1/8" x .060 steel tape, how can I get a tight bend into the end of the tape and have it stay (since spring steel has a tendency to, well, spring)?
For the record: GB Steel Tape. Catalog No. FTS-50B 50' x 1/8" x .060"
It's served me well and I'd hate to have to retire the ol' gal.


texts: Separate panel for house in garage - how much capacity do I reasonably have left?

texts:
I've tried doing some research on my own, but I'm coming up short. I'm looking at getting a Tesla wall charger installed in my home. Tesla recommends a 60A breaker so that the charger can run at 48A, although it can be adjusted to run on smaller circuits, all the way down to 15A.

My home has a main panel on one side of the house:

I assume the breaker labeled 'House Panel' (90A) feeds the panel in the garage:

If the garage panel can only support 90A, is there even really enough capacity to support a wall charger feeding off it? If the range takes ~30A and the dryer takes ~25A, we're at 90A-(30A+25A)=35A left over without running any lights, the fridge, TV, computer, etc.

Am I mistaken in thinking that, with the current configuration, if I wanted to power the wall charger off the garage panel, it would be inadvisable to go higher than, say, 20A, leaving 15A for the rest of the house? It's not impossible that all three big-current-draw items (dryer, range, charger) could be running simultaneously in normal use.

Supposing I wanted to run the charger at 40A, would I need to get the service back to the garage panel upgraded from 90A to 110A?

I'm out of my depth here and trying to make sense of these breaker ratings. Please, let me know if I have some fatal misconceptions. :-)


texts: What would cause multiple fridges motors to stop running, but leave the lights on?

texts:
When my old fridge cooling unit stopped working but the light remained on we assumed that since it was an old fridge that it was broken, so we replaced it.

Today my new fridge has had the same problem. The cooling unit stopped but the light inside is working. It started working again when I jiggled it, then it stopped again. It started again after I unplugged it and plugged it back in, but then it stopped again. It's a new fridge, so this is pretty unlikely to be a coincidence. I've had this one for about 10 days and it worked the whole time as far as we know.

What would cause my fridges motors to stop running, but leave the lights on? The only similarities between the fridges is it's location and power socket.

It wasn't that the thermostat was registering it being cold enough so that the cooling unit could stop working - in the original fridge everything defrosted.

Thanks.


texts: How can I hang a heavy bag from this beam in my garage?

texts:
I'm renting a house that was built about 10 years ago.  The attached, finished garage is under the master bedroom.  It has two large beams running across it, see picture.

The larger one is 6.5" wide x 18" tall, and runs the entire width of the garage.  The smaller one runs from the garage door to the large one, about 3/4 of the garage.

I want to hang a "heavy bag" for punching, from the large beam.  I tried to drill into the side of it, but my wood bit got about 1.5 in before hitting something too hard (masonry or metal).  Tried this in two locations, same thing.

How can I hang this 80lb bag?  My current plan is to attach a 2x4 to ten 75lb "E-Z Anchor® Twist-N-Lock(TM)" drywall anchors and attach the hook with some 1/4-20 bolts.

UPDATE: When I check the beam with a magnet, the lower 'edges' are highly magnetic.  That's the rounded portions within 1" of the corner, running all the way along the beam.  There are also spots mid-height every foot or so where the magnet sticks moderately, the texture looks a bit deformed at these spots.

UPDATE 2: Per @Craig, yes, the edges are metal drywall corner bead.  The drilling was sideways.  I'll post a pic of the drill hole tonight.  I'm not too concerned about the landlord... he's friendly, it's behind the beam and I can spackle it up when I move out.


texts: Electrical Question for Receptacles in guest house

texts: Wiring a out door shed that has everything that a home does; bathroom kitchen living room and extra bedroom. Pretty much like a guest home you can say. When I run my wire in the bathroom of it. The GFCI Receptacle does it have to be on a separate circuit than the lights in the bathroom ? Does every receptacle in the bathroom have to be GFCI? I am wanting it to be by the book according to code.


texts: How can I route a trap when the drain inlet is too close to my disposal unit?

texts:
I am installing a trap into my new sink. I've installed the garbage disposal, and also the new strainer. The problem I have come across is the fact the trap is WAY too close to the garbage disposal outlet. I'm not sure if I can re-route without disturbing the water drainage flow.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


texts: Furnace continously shutting down due to lost or low flame sense (Rheem)

texts:
My furnace will run great for most of its cycle, but when it has almost reached the thermostat setting, I will hear it shut off, run the blower, then re-light. It will sometimes finally reach temperature, but other times it will continue to cycle until I shut it off.

I had the installer look at it in Nov. 2016 and they told me "cannot find anything wrong." Then in Feb. 2017 they told me "unit has issues with gas valve" and replaced the modulating gas valve. I continued to have issues, so in April 2017, they replaced the flame sensor.

The next year, I continued to have issues. At one point, I finally heard what sounded like water in the inducer motor. I pulled the drain lines and cleaned the condensate trap. That fixed it for a while, but then the issue started happening again.

The problem started again this past December. I had a different HVAC tech come look at it, and he replaced the entire condensate trap at the beginning of January. He also told me the furnace was tilted away from the trap and that made it hard to drain water and also that the inducer was going bad (it's extremely loud) due to the water that had backed up.

The furnace ran great for about a month but is now having the same issue. The error codes are always either "low flame sense" or "lost flame sense."

I have spent about $900 so far, and while I don't mind paying to have something repaired, I feel like I've been chasing the same problem for two years now. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Model: Rheem RGGD-09EZCMS


texts:
I recently had my 100-year old hardwood floors and stair treads refinished. No local contractors would do the risers due to the adhesives from the carpet that was removed. The risers are uneven due to the adhesive, and also have lots of nail holes. I patched and painted a couple risers, but it looks like several coats of paint will be needed and it still won't look great in the end.

Would it make more sense to cover up the risers with lauan or something similar? I about 1.5" of clearance under the treads, so I have room to install some sort of covering and cove molding at the tops of the risers if needed or desired.

If I do cover the risers, what material should I use? I want something thin, but also something that won't warp. Are any current adhesives good, or should I stick with a nailgun? Also, I am planning on painting what I cover the risers white.


texts: Many years ago, I placed vinyl sheet flooring over the tile floor of our bathroom without using adhesive.  I simply caulked all the way around the edge. Over time, water got under it and I noticed mildew in one of the corners that was lifting up.  When I attempted to remove the vinyl flooring, the backing apparently is now stuck to the tile and hardened along with the mildew. It is extremely difficult and tedious to try to scrape it off the tiles. Is there a solvent I can use to make the job easier?


texts: Is a toilet drain permitted to run through I Joists?

texts: It was suggested by a plumber, but is it common practice? The I joists are 11 7/8" but a 3.5 or 4" toilet drain line seems like a large hole to be cutting even if it's in the middle of the joist's depth.


texts: Can I vent a portable air conditioner inside?

texts: I recently bought a portable air conditioner and was wondering if it is absolutely necessary to vent it to the outside. I plan on using it in a room that doesn't have a window as was wondering if I could vent it to another room in the house without doing any damage (eg mold growing in the house). I understand the air coming out of the AC will be warm and would warm up the room it was venting into.


texts: Are the two wires going into a 60 amp breaker interchangeable?  I am changing out breakers and the wires I will be taking out seem to be cut to fit differently than the current installation.


texts: Hot water (steam?) gas boiler not engaging burners, low pressure, sight glass full

texts:
At the beginning of the winter season my boiler wasn't turning on, but I got it to work by turning on the inlet valve and just letting it feed water until the gas burners kicked in.  The sight glass completely (over)filled with water to the point I couldn't see any air in the top.  I was happy because my heat was working.

Now, the boiler is not engaging again.  I was going to try the same tactic, but without knowing anything about boilers, let alone the kind I have, I'm afraid I might damage it. So, I just drained the water (from the rear at the inlet valve) until the low water light came on (the water in the sight glass was near the bottom).  I then let in new water until the sight glass showed 4/5 full.  Still no engagement of the gas burners.  The pressure is floored, too.  The gas pilot is burning, too.

I'm pretty sure if I just let the inlet valve feed water to the unit things will start to work again, but then what's the point of the sight glass?  I don't want to try that until I know for sure it's the right move.

I'm attaching some photos of the boiler and it's readings, and I hope you can help figure out why I have no heat.

Boiler Front

Boiler Right Side

Boiler Info Sticker

Sight Glass

Water Pressure Gauge

Water Pressure Cutoff Switch

Inlet From Hot Water Heater


texts: Is this a problematic amount of passive water usage?

texts:
Sorry I don't have any data about depth of well or any other history of it. Trying to help out an elderly friend and they are not very clear on some details.

Water meter shows about 0.10 gallons per minute of usage even when everything (as far as I know) is turned off. Is this amount of usage likely to be problematic on a private well? Recently the well ran out of water* and I'm trying to decide whether it's worth chasing down this leakage or if the problem is likely to be elsewhere.

*details on how I know it ran out of water: pressure would be ok for a bit and then drop to zero. After leaving the master valve off for a while we turned it back on and listened at the well casing. We could hear a very dull hum for a while and then a much louder one that sounded like the water level had dropped to the level of the pump.

Other possible reasons it might have run out:

1 - local water table conditions may have changed due to recent development across the road and lower-than-normal rainfall last couple months

2 - tenant could have done something crazy like take an hours-long shower. No reason to suspect anything but not completely trusting them either

In case you're wondering why there's a meter on a well: it's because that's how they pay for their sewer bill: private well but public sewer.


texts:
I am converting a garage to a usable room and am researching different options when it comes to insulation.  I know more insulation is better, however there is a point where adding more insulation will never reduce the heating bills by enough to pay for itself.
Assuming the external dimensions of the room is 5.5m long, 3.5m wide and 2.5m high, this would give a surface area of:

5.5m * 2.5m * 2 walls = 27.5 m2
3.5m * 2.5m * 2 walls = 17.5 m2
3.5m * 5.5m * 2 (1 roof and 1 floor) = 38.5 m2

The total surface area would be 83.5 m2
If 75 m2 had a 0.33 w/m2k and 8 m2 has a 1.5 w/m2k (windows and doors), would I be right to assume that this would give a 37 w/k for the entire room?
If the difference between the internal and external temperature was 10 degrees C, I assume that I'd need 370 watts to heat the room.  If the walls/ceiling/floor had a 0.22 w/m2k, then without listing all the calculations I'm assume this would be 270 watts, therefore a saving of 120 watts or about £0.03 of electric per hour.
Firstly, I was wondering if someone could please confirm if I'm at least on the right track please?
Secondly, any recommendations on how I can work out the division of lost between the walls, floor and ceiling please?


texts: Can I use foil duct for Kenmore 700 dryer?

texts: I pulled my dryer, and am reinstalling it. It had a semi-rigid metal transition duct, which was all bent out of shape, and looked like it had some holes forming (see pic). I did homework, and read a site talking about how the aluminum foil transition ducts are the only ones UL listed, and at least at Home Depot that was true, the semi-rigid were not UL listed (except for the expensive GE dryerflex one). So I installed the foil duct, and after taping the ends and getting everything set, I turn around and see a warning sign on my Kenmore dryer saying don’t use Metal Foil ducts to vent. Does this include the transition vent? If not, why couldn’t I use the foil vent? Is it something specific about this dryer? In general, the info out there on transition vents are all over the place in terms of rules and suggestions, looking for some concrete expertise. I probably wouldn’t thought much of it, but a neighbor just recently had a dryer fire in their home, so it’s on my mind, and I want to get this right. In our condo association, we are required every 2 years to have a professional dryer vent cleaning.


texts:
Well pump runs non-stop shows zero pressure replace pressure switch no change -  still l have pressure on the house.

Just can't figure out why the it is running all the time?


texts: What can be done to mitigate risk when buying a very old home?

texts:
Im looking to buy a house and I have found a house that I really like and want to buy. There are a couple issues though. While the house cosmetically looks awesome because it has been entirely renovated recently, I am a bit worried that there could be hidden problems because the house is 125 years old.

What is the risk that such an old house can have need for serious repairs in near future despite a reputable/good inspector saying that the house is in good shape? What can be done to mitigate that risk?


texts: Class 2 transformer wire (only) through electrical panel?

texts:
Is there a way to legally run a wire through (but not terminating inside) the electrical panel carrying 9v?  US Residential, 200A panel, surface mounted on block wall.

I am installing an IotaWatt power monitor, and require two for the number of inputs. One will go on each side of the panel in a separate plastic (UL listed) box.  These boxes will each contain a voltage reference source which is simply a plug-in 9V transformer.  The boxes are fed 110V through separate conduit into a physically separated area in which an outlet is mounted (protected by GFI).

Separate current transformers (also listed) are put on each branch circuit, and half go out a 1" conduit into the low voltage side of each box.

All this is good and legit up to this point.

I want to run a wire from each low voltage box into the other carrying that 9V reference (this gives me a read on each phase, which should be identical but.. well, I'd like to measure).  Running this outside of the panel is ugly due to the physical surroundings (not hard, ugly; even worse to put it in conduit which I would prefer as this is really close to a path to get in/out of a car).

What I would like to do is come out of the 1" conduit on each side of the panel, and cross over to the other side inside the panel.  Physically it is trivial, plenty of room for wire. But my understanding is that falls into the Class 2 wiring and is not conforming.  I've read various opinions that it can be by maintaining a separation from each high voltage wire, but that's unlikely to work (I'm also unclear if that advice is correct).

Is there a conforming way to do this?  Using regular THHN perhaps (terminated back to 9V inside each low voltage box)?  Or putting it in some kind of flexible sheath that can actually run into the LV box through the 1" (there is inadequate space for regular 1/2 NM conduit to pass inside and terminate on each side and provide a path).

If relevant (I think not but) none of the low voltage wiring leaves the low voltage box to the outside world, it all stays inside (communications if via wifi).

My alternative is to put two outlets in each box, one on each phase, and four transformers, but that is not desirable due to physical space in the low voltage boxes I already mounted.  Another alternative is just to assume the voltage on each phase is identical - reasonable, what the vendor says is adequate, but a big reason for doing this is to better understand what happens in my power usage, and until you measure something it's a guess, not data.

Update 3/14/2019: To some comments, a photo of the setup may help explain. The two empty boxes will hold the Iotawatt's, they also have a divider that goes at the level of the outlet box.  The block wall is about 24" from a car normally parked in the garage, and tools and ladders are stored on the wall as well so I am trying to avoid any loose wires or devices (and these boxes are about 7' up). The metal cover hides wires exiting above and goes all the way to the ceiling. Both plugs on the outlet in the box are taken (one for power, one for that leg's 9V reference transformer).


texts: Noticed light not working in bathroom outlet. Removed outlet & there was no current

texts: Electric current running to 3 GFCI outlets buy not to 4th GFCI & last outlet on circuit.


texts: I'm trying to replace the whip on my ac condenser and disconnect but the previous whip was not color coded and I'm not sure where the red and black should go.


texts: Unfinished large panel opening in outside wall

texts:
This house was built in 2015. I am the 2nd owner. I am unsure what this opening  is/was meant for. (see photos)
Somebody might have meant to install a panel and then had a change of heart. There are 4 anchors that suggests someone meant to attach some sort of a metallic cover, but it is not there. This looks like unfinished work. As far as I can tell, everything is functioning properly in my house.
Can anybody help make sense of this, and suggest remediation?
Shall I simply apply some stucco on the existing concrete boards?
(I am unsure what is best in term of water and pest proofing, but surely there is room for improvement!)


texts: What is the most effective way to remove epoxy plumbing putty?

texts:
At some point in the past, I used epoxy plumbing putty to seal a joint going into the faucet on my bathtub. It's now leaking again (seeping out past the putty) and I'd like to get the putty off so that I can effect a better repair.

Any good ideas? I'm thinking I may just have to chisel it off, but I'd like to not damage the faucet in the process.


texts: Shower drain pipe leaking through floors

texts:
Top view of drainage pipe

Hi,
It seems that there is a significant leak when the shower is used as I observed a constant stream ofdripping water from the ceiling of the lower floor. Upon removing the filter cap, I see the drainage pipe is not aligned properly with the fiberboard of the shower and there is a big gap between drainage head and drainage pipe, not sure if this is the source of the leak as the area looks dry around it. Could someone recommend how to fix this potential source of leak or is the gap naturally expected?

The drainage pipe outlet is to the right of the hole as can be seen.


texts:
I'm not all that DIY savvy and so had some guys come fit a laminate floor for me. It covers two floors, one of wood and one of concrete, and due to the different levels there's a reasonable amount of plywood under the floor to even it all out
This means, however, that the wooden floor which was previously level with the tiled floor next door is now about 1cm higher due to the laminate. The people who installed the floor added a small laminate ramp, which kind of worked OK but wasn't ideal, but it's since come loose
Does anyone have any better suggestions for what could finish off this flooring, or failing that any suggestions on how to fix the ramp in place?
Also, as a side quest, any ideas of what can be done about the gap on the left next to the doorframe?

Thanks,
Harry


texts:
I was working on a friends house today, mostly running a new branch circuit for an upgraded kitchen.   That all went fine.   However, the panel in the basement has a four pole breaker as the main.  I've never seen a panel this way.  What's the purpose?

Has anybody seen this before?   Why would they do this?


texts: Anything wrong with moving from a washable mesh HVAC filter to disposable?

texts:
Currently my HVAC system has this inside it: https://www.discountfilters.com/air-filters/bryantcarrier-kfafk0212med-2-pack/p110138/

It's a washable mesh basically...and it doesn't seem to offer much protection from...well...anything. Seems like the only thing it could stop is a golf ball. Says "Merv 4".

I want to get a Merv 13 disposable filter to hopefully help with my seasonal allergies...found one on Amazon that will fit (it has a weird size...couldn't find something that size at Lowes). Seems much more substantial...looks pretty solid from the pictures. My question is will this hurt the furnace at all with the (I imagine) reduced airflow from the new heavier filter?


texts:
Question: A 3-wire socket (hot, neutral, ground) in my bathroom has stopped working due to a bad neutral wire.  Can I safely disconnect the bad neutral wire completely, and move the ground wire to the neutral connector to get the socket working again?   I have verified that there are 0.0 volts between ground and a nearby (working) neutral wire.

Background:  I believe this failure can be traced to the installation of a new deck in the back of the house a couple of years ago, when the workers broke several cables between floors when they were pulling out beams from the old deck.  The contractor brought in an electrician to fix the obvious failures, but I didn't notice that this bathroom socket (which is the last of a daisy chain of outlets) apparently ended up with a loose or broken neutral wire which causes intermittent failure, especially during prolonged rain spells.  I'm speculating that the break is about 30 feet away from the socket, buried somewhere in the space between the floors and virtually inaccessible.  I have considered installing a connecting wire from a nearby good neutral wire from the bathroom lights, but there is no easy way to do this without removing wall paper, sheet rock, etc.   The first socket in this particular daisy chain is in another bathroom, and is a GFCI socket.  Second question:  Would the ground to neutral connection I am proposing trip the GFCI?

The intermittent failures (which can last for hours or days) are driving me nuts.  Any other suggestions for how to fix this without breaking into the sheet rock would be welcome.


texts: How do I interpret the American Wood Council's Design for Code Acceptance table of cantilevered joists?

texts:
In designing a deck I've been looking at this Deck Construction Guide (PDF)

Table 2 lists the max joist spans (Lj) for joists that are cantilevered by a maximum of Lj/4.

How do I calculate Lj/4? For example, say I have a 12 foot joist span and use southern Pine 2x12, could I have a cantilever of 4.5 feet(18 feet / 4), or 3 feet (12 feet /4)?


texts: Window casing and conversion from inch thick drywall to half inch

texts:
I'm renovating the bathroom. I used to have 1" thick drywall and I'm lowering it to 1/2" thick drywall (so the window sticks out of the wall 1" now).

What are my options for trimming the window? Inch thick trim seems really thick. Is that normal?

Here are pictures of my attempted explanation...


texts:
Going to tear up the carpet/pad and put in hardwood.  Carpet comes up easy.  The pad however has been glued down and it isn't your normal pad.  It's the same thickness (give or take) but more like moderately dense foam.  Trying to pull it up just results in ripping off a little bit, leaving some of it glued to the floor.  I've done a little bit of it with various chisel/spatulas and it's a nightmare process.

Doing it the way I have been would take weeks and right now I'm seriously tempted to just tear up the sub floor and replace it too.

The DIYer in me thinks there must be some sort of solvent I can pour over the whole floor or some sort of hard-wire-brush-on-a-floor-sander attachment that can just tear it off.

Wondering if anyone has any suggestions?  There has to be something...

UPDATE: I ended up buying a Spyder Scraper for my sawsall on the off chance it would work and it worked amazingly well. Like shearing a sheep easy.  Kept the sawsall angle low to the floor and it removed the padding quick and easy. Occasionally I'd hit a nail or edge and ruin a blade, but only went through 3. Totally worth it. Removed 4-500 sq ft in about 30 minutes.

https://smile.amazon.com/Spyder-Scraping-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI


texts: What can I do about slow running water in my Whirlpool refrigerator?

texts: We have a Whirlpool refrigerator that's 2 years old which has always had slow running water since new. I noticed that when we remove the water filter water runs nice and fast, but with a filter installed, even a new filter, water runs slow. We discovered that some friends of ours actually have the same fridge and it suffers from the same problem. What can I do?


texts: Recommended floor protection when assembling Ikea furniture?

texts:
I'm completely new to DIY home assembly, but I'm planning to buy some Ikea furniture to furnish an apartment I just rented.

I've read online that I should protect the floor (hardwood) when assembling the furniture, and although some recommend using the boxes it came with, I'd like to ensure I'm using proper protection.

I've searched around a bit and read What should I use to protect and cover my floors during construction?, and it looks like Ram Board is a pretty good option, but I'd like to hear about any other alternatives.

Since this is temporary and I'm just assembling a bed, table and drawers, I am looking for a cheaper option while still providing adequate protection.


texts: How do I repair cracks in a plaster ceiling?

texts:
I have a bungalow house built in the early 1930's.  It is in remarkable condition and has been well maintained.  In the last few weeks a few cracks have shown up in the ceiling.  There is an upstairs but I see no water damage and the area above the cracks is a crawlspace with nothing really in it.  My wife has suggested tape, spackle, and paint for the repair.  The cracks are ~1/16" wide now but run most of the length of the ceiling from the back wall towards the front (about 13' of a 16' wide room).

Is the tape, spackle, paint method effective?  I do not want to spend $500 on a contracter for something i can do myself in 20 min of effort, but I also do not want to throw up a quick fix if it is something that really needs a greater fix.  Any suggestions?


texts:
I need to replace sweep on my front door. The problem is that I don't currently have one on there so I have nothing to take to the hardware store to say, "I need this" so I'm hoping to get some help here. My house was built in the mid-1950s and from perusing the store it seems like what I need isn't very common anymore.

Here are some pictures of the bottom of the door and the threshold.

What type of sweep do I need for this threshold? And where can I get it or should I replace the threshold and sweep altogether?


texts: Electrical requirements for 3ph IR lamps

texts: I have a series of lights that I want to use, with one controller, but do not know the electrical requirements.  the 15 total lamps, each lamps (IR) is 9000 watts, 27 amps, 240 3ph volts.  How do I calculate it?


texts: Should window headers be set against the top plate or at rough opening height?

texts:
I've been building load bearing walls with the header located at the top of the desired window or door opening, but have had a couple people comment on how I should be putting the header directly below the top plate to save time. I find it actually takes more time to come back later and toenail a horizontal 2x6 exactly where I want the window or door opening to be and then later curse myself when I want to attach j channel or 5/4 trim on the top portion of the window since the window flange uses up most of the 2x6 I have used for the opening.

It seems this doesn't matter in terms of structural support as long as people put in the cripples below the plate and above the header to connect the load transfer.

Is there any other reason I should consider keeping the headers at the very top of the walls? I did read that span ratings vary if the header is connected to the top plate vs only connected to the king stud and cripples.


texts: Replacing hardwired fire alarms with 10 year sealed alarms

texts:
My house was built in 2004 and came with fire alarms pre-installed and hardwired. The alarms also use a 9V battery backup, so we have to replace the batteries regularly (not an easy task with 9 ft ceilings, neither of us is exceptionally tall).

It's time to replace the alarms, and we were looking at the 10 year sealed lithium battery units (so we don't have to replace the batteries, we can test the alarms with a broom handle easily enough), but they don't seem to come in a hardwire variant.

Should we do something with the wires that are coming out of the ceiling? Would it be safe to not have them hooked up to anything? The circuit that feeds the alarms also powers the master bedroom (this house was built during the construction boom and it's terrible).

Would we loose any functionality by not using the hardwires?


texts:
New kitchen counters are coming in soon and I need to prepare the sink plumbing. I think I can do a half-decent sweating job and I have the right tools. Plan is to un-sweat the existing tees and to put on Sharkbite caps until the new counter is in. Then sweat on new tees with new quarter turn valves, extension pipes for the hot and cold and the valves for those.
Is this a solid plan?
Also, I cannot quite make out what comes after the tee on hot. Is this a 1/2” threaded adapter that is sweated on the tee?
And finally, in which order would you do this? Should I make the top assemblies first and sweat them on supply popes as a last step?


texts:
Can I enclose the wiring inside PVC that is for electric?

It will run on the outside of a garage. I am running 50 amp 120 volt wiring for my RV hookup from the breaker box to the end of the garage on the outside with the proper size wire (8 gauge) 22ft.


texts: How to re-anchor banister to plaster wall?

texts: So the banister holders are in plaster, and it's pretty crumbly. We removed the wooden rail, but the anchors are in no way attached to the wall soundly.  How can I make this secure again?


texts: What do the buttons on a Comelit Okay Simplebus2 Intercom/door entry system do?

texts:
I've got a Comelit Okay Simplebus2 door entry system which yesterday wasn't able to be used to let someone into the building, however I'm not sure if the buttons next to the phone were being used correctly.

The interface has 2 buttons, 1 with a key and 1 with a lightbulb symbol, and I'm wondering if anyone has seen this style before and knows how it should be used?

I've tried calling the manufacturer but like most places the phone line's closed at weekends


texts: How to prevent algae formation in basin pipe?

texts:
In my house, I have a basin, the pipe of which is causing problems.

Background:

The pipe of this basin is connected to the same drain as the washing machine drain pipe. As a result, when the machine drains away water, due to the huge speed of water from the machine pipe, the water overflows up from the basin pipe joint. In order to fix this, I've fixed the joint with plaster of Paris, and now, water no longer comes put from the joint. But on the other hand, in order to remove the pipe, I have to literally break the plaster of Paris.

The Problem:

I'm facing a problem of algae formation in this pipe. It is algae, and not dirt, because it's forming over the mouth in the basin as well. But it is relatively easy to remove the algae from the mouth, than from the pipe.

I have already tried treating with acid, drain cleaners, and also the youtube remedies of using baking powder, vinegar and followed by boiling water. But none of the methods are able to actually remove the algae from the sides of the pipe. In the picture below, the dark parts are the algae, while the white parts are free from algae.

I've finally decided to take off the pipe tomorrow and clean it properly by hitting it against the wall in bathroom (the jerking cleans off most of the algae).

Is there anything that I can do on a periodic basis, which will prevent algae formation? It's very difficult to go through the above procedure again and again.


texts: Adding 2 X GFCIs to protect Switched and Unswitched Hot sharing same Neutral and Ground

texts:
I currently have a switched and un-switched hot running underground in conduit sharing the same neutral and ground.  Its important to note that they are both on the same circuit.  Basically I have 4 wires (switched Hot, UnSwitched Hot, 1x Neutral, and 1 Ground).  The Switched Hot powers 3 Lamps in my back yard and the unswitched hot powers a series of outlets in a shed.

Currently the circuit is not protected by GFCI.  I have access to a junction box before the conduit goes underground.  Can I effectively install 2X GFCI switches and tie the Switched and Un-Switched Hots to their respective GFCI as normal and tie the two outlets in series with the same neutral.

Im wondering if this setup may confuse the GFCIs since the 1X neutral will carry the current back from both Switched and un-switched hots in the event that both are drawing power at the same time.


texts: Wiring a reliable temperature switched outlet

texts:
I have an electrical wiring question.
Background: I'm building my house by contracting out the daunting parts. Through a lack of good communication with the plumber, my plumber ran most of my PEX pipes through the crawlspace under my house instead of the walls. I live in central Missouri, so the temperatures in my crawlspace will likely go below freezing during the winter. I've insulated the crawlspace, but I expect to need a small amount of electrical heat in the crawlspace to prevent the PEX pipes from freezing.
So I need a power socket that will reliably turn on once the temperature gets close to freezing, then turn off once the temperature warms up a bit. Let's say roughly 35 to 45 degrees F. I've found multiple cheap devices that will accomplish this, like the "Thermo Cube" and several products on Amazon (search for "temperature controlled outlet"). You plug them into a power socket, then you plug your heater into them, and they turn some relay(s) off/on depending on the temperature, I suppose. This seems like an easy solution, but I don't want to trust a cheap device with my pipes freezing. The reviews say that they fail after some years.
So, I want a more reliable option, and I think I can accomplish this by purchasing two different temperature-controlled switches and wiring them up in parallel for redundancy. Even if one switch fails (by not providing power when it's freezing), the other switch will provide power. Is there a way I can do this safely?
Here's what I'm proposing: I have a professionally installed GFCI outlet box in my crawlspace, which has 2 plugs. I'd like to install one temperature-controlled switch into each outlet, then wire the outputs of these 2 switches together into a single new outlet.

If the 2 source outlets came from different AC sources, or if the phase was mixed up, I know this would be a recipe for disaster. But if I can confirm that the 2 outlets have the same phase (i.e. the hot and neutral wires aren't swapped), and I keep all the electrical work tidy and capped off, it seems like this should be fine. Thoughts?


texts: Is it okay to have AC/Furnace intake suck air from wall cavities?

texts:
The house we bought almost 2 years ago has 2 intake air registers for the furnace and AC (not one for each, but both feed both the units). There is a big 20x20 intake downstairs and a smaller 12x20 intake upstairs. The 20x20 pokes out the bottom of the main trunk and looks pretty standard, but the smaller 12x20 upstairs is really weird.

The upstairs register doesn't directly go to the main trunk. Instead it feeds air into an interior wall cavity which is connected to the main trunk via 2-3' of horizontal ducting. If this cavity was sealed so that it made a sort-of sideways J to draw air into the trunk from upstairs I wouldn't have any problem. But it is not so. First off the square cavity was littered with construction debris and dust (which I just now vacuumed out). Second, it is not sealed, so it can draw unfiltered air from all the interior walls.

How normal is this setup? I'm guessing someone just made a mistake and something got left undone, but I'm having trouble figuring out how the previous owners changed this filter year after year without being bothered to at least clean out the cavity. I'm thinking I need to get my whole system cleaned and sealed since drawing all this unfiltered air could very well be making us sick.

Pictures

I found my camera so here are some pics:

Register from upstairs hallway:

Electrical runs penetrate cavity without seal:

Stud gaps are not sealed in upper portion of cavity:

Lower part of cavity appears to have been sealed:

The runs to the main trunk that I am on top of appear to be sealed as well:

All those clean marks on the ducting is where I stuck the vacuum cleaner.


texts: How can I open a locked door with a half destroyed cylinder lock?

texts:
On my new bought property there's a locked door whose cylinder lock was destroyed by drilling in it from both sides. The hole indoors is 24 mm deep, the hole outdoors 23 mm. Now the plugs on each side are loose and can rotate without opening the door, they are both obviously not attached to the actuator any more. Unfortunately, the hinge pins also can't be removed undamaged when the door is closed. What can I do to open the door without damaging it?
Photos
Lock from indoors

Lock from outdoors

Image from wilka.de

Technical Drawing from wilka.de

Files

PDF with General Notes about the lock
PDF with Explanation of Drilling Protection methods, the lock may be equipped with ABH I, III, or V.


texts: Anode Rod replaced but short on hot water

texts:
We just had our anode rod replaced on our 8 year old gas water heater. Water starts very hot but cools down quickly. Able to put hand under it after a couple minutes without being too hot when running bath. This is with tap turned to hottest.

What could the problem be?


texts: I want to change my light bulb to an LED multicolored light bulb

texts:
I want to change my current light bulb (which I believe to be a florescent, though I am unsure) in my bedroom to an LED one so I can make it change colors.

I am looking at buying this bulb:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/iLC-Colour-Changing-Control-Bayonet/dp/B072PQVG1X/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=led%2Bcolour%2Blight%2Bbulb&qid=1585699077&sr=8-11&th=1

However, I am not sure if it will work correctly as this is my first time buying a different type of bulb. I live in the UK.

I have attached an image of my current bulb below, thanks in advance for any help. I'll be happy to supply any further information if needed.


texts:
I will be replacing my Heat Cable on my roof. Currently we have to plug it in manually when we want it to 'run'. This isn't a big deal but is annoying.

I'm not to interested in the sensors, i'd just like an easier way to control this plugin/unplug process. I was thinking of getting an Outdoor Outlet Switch with Remote and connect the Heat Cable to that. Will that work or am I asking for a fire?


texts: How to smooth the separation between 2 hardboards on the floor?

texts: When fitting hardboard on the floor (for gluing vinyl above it) there are obviously more than one piece of hardboard. Is it recommended to do something about the separation between the different pieces of hardboard, such as putting some duct tape on top of the edge of each piece?


texts:
I removed the shower head for cleaning it, but now I can't screw it back anymore: the threads won't click into one-another (unless I remove the gasket so that the two ends can get closer to each other, but then of course the head is no use anymore, because the water will flow from the base too).
What I tried was pressing the head and the tube together (with the gasket in), but even then, the threads don't reach eachother.

Question: is there some trick to screw it back together, or should I just buy a new one?


texts:
Please see image A below. Previously attached was a 3-bulb fixture. I have replaced it with a 4-spotlight bar successfully by copying the previous wire configuration.

Lacking the background, the cable and wire configuration confuse me.

Please see image B below,. The old fixture had 3 live wires and 3 neutral wires running from it. These were connected to 2 cables from the junction box. One cable had 1L, 1N and 1G. The other seems to have those and an extra red (greater gauge perhaps?)

Inside the junction box, the 2 blacks were tied together and remain detached. And the 2 whites were tied together and connected to the 3 whites on the fixture (total 5 whites). Then there's the red.

It seems that the fixture is using the red (as the live?) from 1 cable and combining neutrals. Then joining the 2 black wires from these cables to form a closed loop. I believe the 2 ground wires were connected too.

If the above is correct, why was this necessary? Was it a load/consumption issue or a method to future-proof in case of expansion? What is the red wire's purpose - where does it originate from? Were the 2 blacks also live?

Insight would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: This is Canada. House was built in 1990.


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Forgive me if this is basic or redundant, but I couldn't find any questions addressing my specific scenario.
I've got a GFCI outlet in my garage which also protects three separate outdoor outlets.  I have a refrigerator plugged into this because it's the only outlet in my garage.  I've had it trip a couple of times over the years when the only load on the entire circuit is the refrigerator.  More often, I've had it trip with things plugged in outside such as Christmas lights.  I'd like to avoid this so that such an event doesn't leave the refrigerator without power.
Is the solution as simple as replacing the garage outlet with a standard one and each of the three outdoor outlets with GFCIs?