texts: How can I remove craft acrylic paint that has been mixed with silicone oil from multiple surfaces?

texts: I was making a layered cup of various acrylic paint mixed with floetral and silicone oil to do a acrylic pour/ flip cup painting. The cup slipped out of my hand and hit the edge of the bathtub, splashing onto the tile the bathrug, the toilet lid, the grout , The fixtures, the wall,and thoroughly saturating the bathtub, basically everything in the bathroom got some spatter on it. I rent my apartment so I need to clean it up ASAP and I can’t risk damage to any of the property for obvious reasons. I’m worried that using too harsh of a chemical will mess up the fiberglass bathtub or strip the paint off of the wall that was already there not just the paint that I splashed on there by accident. I tried to wipe up as much as possible but that seemed to make it worse and I didn’t want to permanently embed the paint into any porous surfaces by rubbing it in.


texts: New bathroom fan has 2 green wires but i do not know where to connect them

texts: A new bathroom fan I want to install has 2 green and 1 each white and black. The line in the attic consists of a white, a black and a ground. What do I do with the 2 green wires?


texts: We are getting a new refrigerator and just found out that the shut off valve has to be on the same floor/level as the appliance. Our current fridge water shut off valve is in the basement-my question is, is this a fairly simple job to add a shut off valve to the existing water line, behind the refrigerator??


texts: Can I convert my front intermediate light (with only 1 wire) to a junction box with live, neutral and ground wires?

texts: I want to change my entire front light housing because it is old and uses an intermediate-base light bulb. The new one I have purchased has black, white and copper wires. The old one only has a wire go straight to the bulb base and has no junction box. Can I convert this myself or do I need to hire an electrician?


texts: Gas line in contact with concrete - is this code compliant?

texts:
I'm approaching the end of my initial builder warranty on my home and had a home inspection service come out and identify potential problems. One of the items identified is the natural gas line in this photo which serves an outdoor BBQ area. The gas line is inside the constructed cabinet for the BBQ.
The inspector identified that the gas line should not be in contact with the concrete and that the "duct" tape is not adequate. I assume the city building inspector would have noticed this if it was not to code but one can never be sure about such things. It's also possible the sub-contractor filled the concrete base after the gas line was inspected.
EDIT to respond to comment in an answer: It appears to be a carbon steel line but I don't know for sure. The area is protected from weather because it is in a cabinet built for a BBQ though I'm sure it could get wet under specific storm conditions.

I'm in Scottsdale, AZ and the home was completed in late 2019 and occupied in March, 2020.
I will report this to the builder as a warranty issue but wanted to know if this is or is not code compliant? Reference to the code either way would be greatly appreciated.
EDIT: add additional photos of structure housing the gas line. The line is just inside and to the right of the access door:

Thanks


texts:
I'm building a "sun room" on a 10x40 foot pad on the back side of my house, with 2/12 roof tied in to house roof. Have built a concrete block wall 24" high, will go up from there.
To allow for the roof slope, the total wall height will be 76" at the low side, so framing will only be 52".
In order to get the most window space, is there any reason I cannot use a 4x6 as header/top plate?
I believe I have it all worked out except for the best method of tying walls together at the corner - notch the 4x6 horizontally? or vertically?
Also how much support is adequate between windows - 3 2x4s?
Thanks!


texts: Is minor leaking at bottom corners of exterior doors normal or acceptable?

texts:
I worked with a contractor who installed 2 French Doors and one "normal" door. All of them leak at the bottom corners. 2 of them are minor, but if I put a paper towel in the corner when it rains, it comes back wet. One of the doors is completely covered, and the other has partial cover. There is no standing water.
I haven't paid a lot of attention to exterior doors before, so my first question is:
Is this is normal and within acceptable limits of water incursion?
The french doors on the 2nd floor leak quite a bit, flooring wood rot is apparent in the left corner, and I've seen water stream in at the middle seam between the two doors. That's obviously not right. I'm trying to address this with the contractor now but trying to get some feedback.
If the leaks affect all doors, including one that is not a french door, wouldn't that indicate there's probably a problem with the contractor and not necessarily the doors?
They had door techs out from the manufacturer, we already replaced one of the french doors once (on the first floor), and I feel like we're going around in circles. They warranty their work but if they can't seem to actually do it right, then it seems like my only options are to try to fix it myself or to pay for a new contractor to give it a shot.
Thoughts?


texts: Blue water and plastic pieces always stuck in the screen in faucets

texts: Sometimes the water in the toilet and the faucets are blue and the screen in the sinks are always getting clogged with small plastic pieces....I do not know what is going on with that..and the water , when not blue is very cloudy no matter how long i let it run first....Help me please...Because my landlord seems to think there is no problem and I believe there is....I can not even stand to drink it...taste funny....


texts: Mark 2 points on parallel walls directly opposite each other

texts:
I am about to mount some steel pipe which spans from one wall of a room to the opposite wall. (Here's why: Mount Pull-up bar from wall to wall)

How do I accurately mark two points on facing parallel walls so that the points are directly opposite each other? By directly opposite, I mean that the line joining the points should be horizontal and should also be perpendicular to both walls.

Additionally, I have a hook suspended from my ceiling and it would be nice if I could accurately mark the points so that the line joining them passes directly below this hook in addition to being level and perpendicular to the walls.


texts: Running cables for a home theater: inside walls and ceilings or on the surface?

texts:
I am trying to set-up a home theater in my ill-equipped living room. After spending the last three days watching YouTube videos on routing cables, I did learn a lot, but got into a state of analysis paralysis in which I can't make any decision besides keep looking at more videos. I hope by posting here I can get some good recommendation that push me towards action
I am planning on setting up a 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos configuration with 6 speakers near the front of the room room  (2 surround, 1 center, 1 sub, 2 ceiling reflective atmos placed on top of the two surround) and 4 near the back (the other 2 Atmos actually in the ceiling and the 2 back surround).
I live in the second floor of a 3-floor condo, so obviously there is no attic. And wall and ceiling are fully finished.
I am debating between the two main options of where to put the AV receiver, but the actual issue is how to run the wires:

Put the AV receiver, router and all other components in the back of the room, just under the projector.

PROS: short HDMI run (12 feet) and short Ethernet run
CONS: I need to bring 6 speaker cables to the front of the room.

Unfortunately the straightest path, shown in the first picture, is perpendicular to the direction of the joists and to fish the wire in the ceiling I would have to drill through seven joists, opening seven holes below them, including a big one in the back wall. I would tend to exclude this solution because the patching would be very visible, due to the bad combination of my poor skills and the light texturing of the ceiling .
Other possible options are: using 6 thin speaker wires glued to the ceiling on a straight line (i.e., following the red line but on the surface) or using plastic raceways along the longer route of the irregular perimeter of the ceiling/wall junction.
A last possibility would be running the wires inside the ceiling until the other side of the room (blue line in the second photo), and then go to the front wall from there. The first part of the path is parallel to the joist direction and it is a necessary route to connect the 2 in-ceiling speakers. I would basically carry along the other 6 wires until they get on the other side of the room.

The interesting thing is that on this side, as shown in the second photo, there is a dropped ceiling throughout the whole length, from the front wall to the back wall. One the positive side, the path inside the dropped ceiling to the back wall should be free of joists. However I am not sure what is in there, if I am allowed to run cables through it (a little online research gave me the impression that I could, using CMP rated wires, but not sure if it is also advisable). Also, if I did that, I would need to fish wires from so far below them that, just to start, I would not be sure of what to do to create that initial 90 degree turn with the cables above the real ceiling.

The second option is putting the AV receiver near the screen, in the position occupied in the first photo by the old TV (which, together with the red couch strategically placed in front of the screen, owes its unexpected survival to covid lol). This different setup, actually, won’t change much in terms of wiring issues. The negative is a longer run for HDMI and Ethernet (about 30 feet) and the positive is that only 4 speaker wires instead of 6 need to be brought to the opposite end of the room.

And the options are the same: either running thin speaker wires glued to the ceiling, using plastic raceways, or fishing inside the real ceiling and the dropped ceiling on the other side.
None of these options seems that great. What would you guys do?
Thank you very much for any suggestions you would be kind enough to give me.


texts:
I have this bathroom light switch, when I turned it on, I tested power between red and black wire, there is no power

If I turned it off, there is power red/black line

How does it work exactly? I don’t understand this

UPDATE 1

According to answers below, this is a 3-way switch but it unnecessary because there is only one switch for the bathroom light. My goal is to move this switch to a different location. Right now it is OUTSIDE the bathroom. I want to turn it inside the bathroom. So should I continue to use this same switch and the way it is routed? Or should I take advantage of this and re-wire it?


texts: I tried to remove glass-paper from a window in my house, but when I try it tears. How can I remove it without it tearing?


texts: What is the advantage to hiring someone with a license?

texts: Recently many out of work handymen have shown up at my door asking if they can do any work. One quoted me on some work, at a much lower price than if I looked in the phone book for a licensed contractor, and I was able to get some references from people I know to confirm they are okay. What is the advantage then of hiring someone with a license? Does that help protect me in case something goes wrong during the work?


texts: How can I subfeed a single pole switch from a 3-way switch to control a fluorescent light?

texts: I have an overhead utility room light that is controlled by two 3-way switches.  I have added a light over the washer and dryer that I'd like to control from a single pole switch.  I could only add the single pole switch to the non directly powered 3 way switch box.  I am okay with the light only coming on with the one 3 way switch being powered on.  How do I do this?  The only thing I have found is how to make it power up when the overhead light is turned off by the 3 way I want to feed it.


texts: what are my options when it comes to updating my recessed lighting?

texts:
i want to start by saying thank you for the few that helped answer my question yesterday.

to make a long story short....i am a fairly new homeowner and unfortunately did not have a father who was much of a fixer upper growing up. so when it comes to home repairs and doing things around the house i am very inexperienced.

i am trying to start off by doing small simple projects to help boost my confidence around the house. so over the weekend when I looked up at the ceiling in my living room i decided that i wanted to replace the faded white trim for the recessed lights. so after doing some browsing i found these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kichler-Baffle-Recessed-Light-Trim-Fits-Housing-Diameter-6-in/1000257661

they are really nice and not that expensive. so i went to lowes and picked one up along with some GE LED BR30 bulbs. i wanted to buy just one to make sure it fit and looked nice. but upon reading the sticker on the trim it said MAX 9W BR30 LED. so i exchanged the bulbs for a lower wattage.

i went home and put up the trim and it fit beautifully. such a simple change gives the ceiling some new life! but as i was putting in the trim i noticed a sticker on the housing unit. it's a HALO 7T housing unit. no where do I see the trim i purchased on that sticker. as matter of fact it says to use only HALO trim. in addition...i don't see any mention of LED bulbs on that sticker either.

so am I overthinking this here? is it that big of a deal?
what about the LED bulbs? can they go into this unit? i have read some conflicting articles online as far as LED bulbs in incandescent housing.

i just don't want to create a fire hazard, that's my real concern. maybe my questions are silly but again, i'm new to this and want to be 100% sure. thanks so much


texts: Adding Lutron 3-way Motion Sensors to Both Switches

texts:
I purchased two Lutron 3-way switch motion sensor switches and I was surprised that the instructions only suggest using it for one switch. That doesn't make a lot of sense when the other switch is around the corner and would never pick up the motion for the other side. From what I've read it's possible to wire in the second one but I need help.
Here's what the back of the back of the Lutron switch has.
There is a white neutral
There is a blue traveler
There is a black traveler
There is a black hot
There is a ground
Thanks!


texts: Two Hall lights, one switch interestingly wired with diagram

texts:
Remodeling my bathroom which, has now spilled into the hallway. I intend to leave the electrical configured the same as it has been so I drew up how it was wired before dismantling it. Only now, I'm not 100% sure I drew it up correctly in my notes as far as the hall lights and switch are configured.
See the attached diagram - Does the switch wiring to the hall lights make sense?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pdPZeA9_Oi-rYKF0LQrkVhmVpo4DmJJ2/view?usp=sharing
The line coming into hall light one is a shared neutral that branches off to an office, the switch and lights described have always been on the same circuit that is apart from the office


texts: Single Neutral for Several Smart Switches

texts:
I have some (seemingly common, but specifically unanswered) concerns about providing a neutral wire to smart switches that are in a single multi-gang box (4-6 switches on different circuits).  I am wondering if it is acceptable to use a single neutral line run directly from the electrical panel to serve all the switches, even though they are on separate circuits with their own neutrals at the fixtures.

See diagram of what I am thinking below.

This question relates to this and this question (to which the answers were "not ok"), but the difference being that I am not "stealing" a neutral from another nearby outlet or switch, but running an extra neutral directly from the panel.

To better answer @ThreePhaseEel , the setup is a bit out of the ordinary, and the current (inherited) physical setup is like this:


texts:
Hoping for some help
I am fitting a new double light switch were one of the switches is a 2 way light.

The back of the light switch looks like this

  C          C

L1 L2      L1 L2

Now the problem I have is that I only have four wires and six connections. All of the wires are red but two of them have a extre grey sleeve ( I assumed these were the common wires).

I have tried wiring in the two commons then wiring switch one L1 connection and switch 2s L2 connection then bridging the L2 on switch one and L1 on switch two, I can get the two switches to work this way but only if the partner switch to the 2 way light is left on.

Where have I went wrong???


texts: Connecting a hose to a 3/8 compression fitting

texts: I have a dog waterer that has a female garden hose connection. I would like to take a tee off my 3/8 compression fitting above my cut off valve under the sink to connect to this. Any suggestions on the best route to go? I would prefer to stick with a short braided hose like you would use for a toilet to make the run... But I have no idea how to take a compression fitting to a garden hose.


texts:
I’m trying to pick some LED light bulbs for outdoor use. I live in Canada and we can get temperatures below -40°C. On all the bulbs I look at, there is the disclaimer:

  Minimum starting temperature -25°C (-13°F).

What does this mean? Will the bulbs not work reliably below this temperature? I’ve tried searching the internet and everybody (albeit of indeterminate knowledge) is saying that LEDs will actually work better at cold temperature.

For what it’s worth, I did come across one bulb labelled “COLDSTART” and “-40°F” but, unfortunately, it is not as bright as I would like.


texts: What software should I use to visualize a major renovation?

texts:
We are going to make major changes in our new apartment (remove walls, construct new walls, new windows, new doors, new kitchen, new bathrooms, paint, fake ceiling, new furniture  etc.). Where do I find a good software to visualize the changes, preferable in 3D with possibility to add light. We have the plan in drawing.

I had a look at Google sketchup but seems beyond my capabilities - a possibility would be to find someone to create the 3D work and send me the sketchup file. Where do I find someone and what should I expect it to cost.

I also looked at floorplanner.com but does not give me a real sense of how changes will look.


texts: How can I isolate my bedroom from refrigerator noise?

texts:
I want to close out noise from my fridge/freezer. The walls are very thick, but I have a a free passage which needs isolating. I'm thinking some isolating material perhaps that I can hang in direct contact with the wall, that entirely covers the free passage. Below is a drawing of my room.

Anyone has ideas for isolating materials or methods for how to isolate my bedroom from the noise?


texts: Furnace only blows 55 degree air! Pipes freezing, please help

texts:
My brother's cabin has a heil horizontal mount attic furnace model # NTC 5100 BFE2 that runs on propane. It's about 14 years old. Only 3 of the 4 burners work, but the heat only comes out at 55 degrees. The heat on the exhaust stack outside in 10 degree weather is 98. The main blower clicks on simultaneously,  and the induced motor squeals,  and on one start up, not at all, with flames coming out against the shield. I'm sure it has multiple issues, but looking for options. The flame was originally orange, but now at least is over 50 percent blue. I'm at a loss as to where all the heat is going.

Thank you!


texts: Can I replace a microwave with a range hood exhaust vent without doing carpentry?

texts:
My fairly small kitchen has a standard (30") four-burner slide-in gas range, and above it a microwave with a built-in vent. All over 10 years old.  The vent exhausts to the exterior via a duct that goes up into the cabinet above the microwave.

I've read that, as vents, microwaves ovens are pretty good ovens. Consumer Reports indicates that some are less mediocre than others. Their latest rating is not very up to date.

If I pull out the microwave, will a pure vent drop into the space left behind, or am I likely to be looking at carpentry?


texts:
Whenever i plug in my laptop or anything in my TV starts getting very glitchy and it stops the minute i unplug what was plugged in.
It only does this in the living room, i don't know why this is happening. It doesn't do it with the lamps, mainly only chargers like my laptop charger.
But once i plugged in a hairdryer and the TV started to glitch out really bad so i think it relies on how powerful the thing plugged in is.


texts: Whirlpool ice maker making knocking noise, but still makes ice

texts: Ice maker is making ice but has started making a clicking noise.  I can see the two gears slipping and making the noise.  It is still making ice, but the noise is irritating.  Any suggestions how to fix this?  The gears do not look damaged.


texts: Can a motorized damper be installed inside existing ductwork?

texts:
My HVAC system consists of a fan, furnace, compressor-driven AC, and evaporative cooler. The problem is that there is a large air volume used only by the evaporative cooler that is generating a lot of turbulence as air flows by (think blowing over an open bottle).

I want to install a damper to close off this useless and turbulent air volume when the evaporative cooler is not running.

My question is: Can a (motorized?) damper be installed within the existing ductwork? Does such a device exist? Or does the motor always have to be external to the ductwork, and thus I have to remove some ductwork to install a damper? Is there a non-motorized, manually-operated damper that can be installed within the existing ductwork?

The ductwork is rectangular sheet-metal ductwork, about 2ft by 2ft cross section (not sure on terminology), perhaps 2-3ft high.

I am open to other ideas on how to close off this air volume.

A schematic is shown below:

Before

After installing a damper. Preferably this damper is motorized and electronically-controllable.

Edit: If you are thinking about doing this, I would now suggest trying some stationary "guide vanes" first that allow the air underneath to pass without causing turbulence above. It's likely to have the same effect without need of any moving parts.


texts: When a GFCI outlet trips, does it open both the hot and the neutral, or only the hot?  An outlet beyond the GFCI outlet has an open neutral and I wonder if that is normal when a GFCI trips?


texts: How do I remove the glass and change bulb from this lighting fixture?

texts: I can't figure out how to unscrew or lift any of the three "nuts".


texts: When to repair engineered floor truss damaged by cut?

texts: While using my circular to cut away rotted subfloor sheathing, I accidentally cut a thin kerf notch into the flat 2x4 top of my engineered floor truss joists. The cut is about 1/2 inch and very thin. How much risk am I assuming if I ignore this? There will be concrete and tile over this subfloor. See attached photo. That edge was made by my circular saw which I assume was set to incorrect depth.


texts: USA Mains black to device black & Mains red to device white

texts:
First of all let me get this out of the way: Some things are not designed to work with the higher voltage and if that's the case then obviously you wouldn't attempt it with that specific device.

However, many modern devices are rated for a very wide input voltage range of 100-250 volts. The catch is these devices are still only single-hot-pole (like the 230 volt system in the EU uses only a single hot wire.)

Here in the USA, we have two-hot-pole 240 volt. Meaning there are two hot wires at 120 volts each.

Why can't I use both these hot wires on regular devices (as long as it states it supports 100-250 volts?) I would wire it as black hot to appliance black & red hot to appliance white/neutral.


texts: Screw type for screwing MDF onto plaster/plasterboard

texts: I have been tasked with building wood paneling for one of the bedrooms in our place. I will be using MDF sheets, screwed directly onto the wall. The existing wall is plasterboard and plaster (fair condition at best). Should I use plasterboard screws to affix the MDF to the wall?


texts: Old Home - Trying to Figure out Living Room Switches

texts:
I have 3 light switches and one regular ceiling light currently in my living room. One of them is a light/fan switch and two of them (in a 2 gang box) are pretty old and I am not sure what they are for (as they do not do anything). The ceiling light box has 2 hots (fan/light), a neutral and a ground.
I removed the old light switches to see what is going on one of them said it was a 3 way switch (strange because it only 2 screws) and they were wired pretty strangely as one hot wire was wrapped around both switches (see pictures). I would like to replace the fan/light switch with a dimmer switch as well as figure out what those 2 switches are for. I have a feeling the old light switches are a 3 way for the light fixture, but not sure how it would work.

Thanks for all of the help


texts: Should a bathroom fan vent to a separate duct system?

texts: Is it acceptable to route a bathroom exhaust fan to the return of a central air system?  I'm afraid this will cause mold to grow in the air return ducts.  There is currently a fan in our bathroom and I can't seem to find any separate outlet or vent for it, so I assume that it must be connected our central air system somehow.  What is the best practice for routing bathroom fans if mold is a concern?


texts: I am trying to replace a wall switch with a dimmable TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch but when I got into the double gang box there were two reds, white and ground connected to the switch and all the black wires were connected by wire nut in the back. I had the TP-Link switch installed on a single gang switch and it worked beautifully but it that light isn't dimmable, so it wasn't needed there and I'd like to move it. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance


texts: I am putting up some shelving today. Unfortunately, the wall anchors don't seem to be taking. I used some plastic ones which didn't work as I was able to pull them out of the wall about half an inch. I purchased some larger (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cobra-Anchors-1-4-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Driller-Toggles-4-Pack-367R/202531181) toggle bolts and those aren't working either. Short of replacing the drywall at this point, I'm not sure what I can do to make this work. Any suggestions?


texts:
I live in New Hampshire, U.S.

I am trying to add a light and a GFCI outlet in a bathroom.

I have a GFCI outlet in the line first from the source.  The outlet and switch are in the same double box.  The switch and light work fine.

From the GFCI outlet running to another outlet receptacle in the kitchen.  Both outlets are not working.  I connected the wires running to the other outlet to the GFCI outlet load screws and this should work but does not.  Any ideas what may be wrong?


texts: When can insulation against external walls be done for new construction?

texts: Picture a new construction house where wood framing is complete and a roof has been added. How soon can insulation against external walls be added? Are there other steps that must be completed prior to insulating?


texts: I have some sap seeping out of a fur/pine door I installed and stained last year, how do I stop that from coming out?


texts:
Here's a rough diagram of the apartment:

There's absolutely no air flow in the apartment, probably because of the directions (up = south)

The worst area of the apartment is the left section, as it contains heat-generating appliances (refrigerator, cold water bar, etc)

What would be the best way to ventilate the apartment? Will putting a fan on the window do the trick? What should be the direction of the fan - to insert fresh air from outside, or to exhaust hot air from the inside?

Usually all doors and windows are open except for the small window on the bottom-right side of the diagram.


texts: I want to build a post to post clothesline using pressure treated 4 x 4 posts.  I am planning on securing with concrete but I am not sure how deep I need to go below ground level.  I live in Michigan and the frost line is 42" but that seems overkill.  Anyone have any experience with this?


texts:
Determined this is a 4 inch slab on top of original slab.  Possibly with internal drainage channels from center of basement to edge, where it runs to pictured channel and sump pump.

House has channel all around basement leading to sump pump. Walls are drylocked.  1st course is poorly drylocked.  Is this a standard and reasonable design?  Alternately, was the design reasonable as implemented but now with apparent increased water flow, needs reconsidering?


texts: Sliding door replacements for “non standard” sizes

texts:
I have a 1962 home with a 72 inch wide x 80 inch tall closet doors as shown in the pics. I am not sure if the sizes are standard.

These doors are worn out and I was looking for replacements in IKEA but unfortunately they don’t have these sizes. The IKEA door runners are pretty good and with Hettich sliders, springs etc. HomeDepot has the sizes but they look pretty cheap.
Can some help suggest alternative places to look for options?

More pics:


texts: How to insulate a concrete block shed - material / method

texts: I've got a shed built of big solid concrete blocks, that also has a concrete floor.  I want to insulate the whole lot so it can be fit for human habitation – so I need to insulate the floor, walls and ceiling (which is currently just corrugated metal).  The question is, what type of insulation to use, and how?  I need to try and save space, so I want to avoid leaving an air gap between the concrete and the insulation.  I suppose I need something that can cope with getting wet – I'm assuming I will get condensation etc. on the inside of the blocks.  So not too deep, no air gap (or very little), can cope with damp.  I'm assuming wood wall batons and something – foil perhaps?  I'll be covering the insulation with timber tongue and groove.  It's not huge, so I don't mind if it's a bit more expensive.  There's such a myriad of options and kinds, I just don't know where to start, except that I doubt I can use rolls of rock wool or thick glass fibre stuff just due to the depth etc. (the ceiling especially is not very high!).  Any help with this will be really appreciated.


texts: Fix overhead electrical connection to outbuilding for NEC 2020

texts:
I have a problem like Best way to make wiring to outbuilding legal. Unfortunately, the answers there weren't specific enough to tell me how to solve my problems.
I have an outbuilding that is 3' away from the main house. It has a main lug panel fed from a 50 Amp 240V breaker at the main panel. Wiring is NM 6-3 w/ 10 AWG Ground. From the panel, it goes 2' up behind the wall into the attic, 11' through the attic, unshielded except for the black plastic cover on the cable, 3' between the building through a 1.5" I.D. pipe (not sure if this is an approved metal conduit) which is 8' above grade, then 2.5' between studs in the outbuilding to the main lug panel. I know this is all wrong in so many ways. What I am unsure of is the best way to fix it all.
Q1: I want the outbuilding to have at least 70 Amps. I think I should switch the 50A breaker for a 70A breaker, change the main lug panel to a main breaker panel with a 70A or 100A breaker (just as a disconnect). I think I want to use #1 AL wires and an 8 AWG ground in case I decide to switch to 100A. I also want to add two grounding rods, at least 6' apart, all connected together at the outbuilding panel with 8 AWG bare copper, but not connected to neutral there. Does that sound right so far?
Q2: I believe that overhead of this walkway, I need to be 10' above grade. Where the conduit is currently is at the top of some cinder block steps. I can't go higher where it is (or it hits the roof), but I can move it laterally. If I pick a step where I can place the conduit 10' above it, is that sufficient, or do I need 10' between the edge of the higher step and the conduit (measured kinda diagonally)?
Q3: Can I use Schedule 80 PVC for the conduit between buildings? Or should I use EMT? What size for 70A? for 100A? Or is there a compliant way to skip the conduit? And if so, is it worth going that route?
Q4: What type wire(s) should I use for all this? I'd like to not have a junction anywhere in the middle (so ideally, one run of wires). Is there anything I have to do with the wire(s) in the attic? E.g., if I use AL XHHW-2, can I bury that inside insulated walls, and do I need to do anything special in the attic? Reading PVC electrical conduit connection to service panel, it sounds like I need two J-boxes, on either side of the conduit (if I use conduit). For three #1 AL wires, that sounds like some big J-boxes :(
Q5: Assuming I do need three sections of wire, one conduit, and two J-boxes, I may rethink trenching (it isn't that far...). If I do that, I think I can now use Schedule 40 PVC, go from an outdoor meter main combo box (so, after the service disconnect breaker), down, over, up, and into the outbuilding. Where I'd do it, I'd still want to run wire about 6' between studs to the indoor panel for the outbuilding. It sounds like I'd still need one junction box. Or perhaps I should have an outdoor panel with my disconnect breaker, and possibly breakers for each branch circuit in the outbuilding, each then having NM feeding into the outbuilding and going through studs to where they are needed. Any thoughts on this versus the overhead approach?
Here is a picture of the current pipe between buildings.


texts: Removing cap from box/turtle style roof vent

texts:
I have a vent on a shed roof:

that has a huge wasp nest inside (though no wasps (at the moment), thankfully!). I can see it from the inside of the shed (not pictured).

I thought it would be easy to pop the cap off of the vent, clean out the nest, then pop it back on. However, it doesn't appear to me that the cap can be removed!? There are clips on each side that seem to be riveted:

Is the only thing to do here to replace the entire vent?

Here is what it looks like from the inside - there is a mesh blocking the nest:


texts:
From my understanding it is normal to mount a PEX like this one in the wall.

And that it is not legal to have hidden connections in the wall.

Question

Why are PEX so often used (required)?

Is it because it is not possible (or legal?) to mount the shower mixer directly on the steal pipes?


texts: Damaged oven plug, possible unsafe installation

texts:
I have an oven that was installed prior to moving into the property. It was connected to a regular UK plug socket via a regular plug. Recently power to the oven has been cutting out and it sounded like a dodgy connection within the socket (sounds of sparks while flipping the switch on and off). Today I have changed the socket but it took a great deal of effort to remove the oven plug, as I can see the N prong looks corroded, and the socket shows signs of melting in the corresponding position.

Is this likely to be a dodgy socket or is it possible that it's unsafe wiring? Is it safe to plug the oven into a regular wall socket? The power cable happens to be 4 wired even though only 3 are used, making me suspect a bodge job.

From the manual, the oven needs 220-240V 50Hz, power consumption 2.3 kW, fuse min 13 A. (Plug has 13 A and no fuses tripped anywhere at any time).

Thanks!


texts: Replace the Threshold of an exterior door

texts:
Last winter the lower hinge side of back door (which faces west and gets lots of wind) was freezing cold during our Northern Illinois winter. So I wanted to fill it with spray foam to seal it up. When I took the interior trim off I noticed a lot of moist wood and saw OSB underneath the door threshold. I’m pretty allergic to mold and was like woa I got to get this out before it gets worse. Soooo I took the threshold out of the door. I bought a new one at Home Depot and wanted to squeeze it into place under the existing jamb. I haven’t found a lot of guidance on this. At work, when I asked the maintenance guy at work he said replace the whole door. I wanted to fix the threshold only I think I have a pretty tight fit and was planning on caulking it well and filling it with spray foam and then adding a storm door. I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. Am I missing something? Why can’t I just replace the threshold?
I’m trying to save on costs so I don’t have to buy two doors this fall. Besides that the HOA is super slow and I don’t think I would have an answer by January.


texts: Grounding in main panel without visible ground wire or ground bar

texts:
I am exploring a way to install an outdoor outlet out of my main electrical panel but I couldn’t find any visible ground bar(s) that the ground wires (in green color) can connect to, nor do I see a ground wire somewhere attached to any bars at all other than one that got attached to a bonding screw on the lower side of the panel.

Is it okay to connect the ground wire directly to the neutral bar (on the right) (it also looks like I don't have any slots available)? Just wondering whoever installed this box many years ago connected those ground wires to. Can anyone shed some light on this?  Thanks.


texts: How to safely clean/remove recent mouse urine stain in carpet

texts:
I recently dealt with a singular mouse that got into an open door (when roommate/landlord was bringing in groceries) and, in the midst of hunting down the mouse, it urinated on the carpet, leaving a singular ~1" dia. stain (that I currently have isolated from other objects in the room).

While I have since cleaned all other hard and soft surfaces in the same room (with proper disinfectants, gloves, face mask, etc.) I have not been able to get around to dealing with the carpet yet.

Given that mouse urine, both wet and dry, does pose health and safety risks, should I consider contacting a professional carpet cleaner to deal with the stain or would I be able to clean the stain myself properly (with PPE)? If by myself, would I focus on sterilizing the stained area or just on stain removal alone?


texts: (UK) LED lights flash once after being switched off

texts:
I had a nice kitchen light fitting with 5x 20watt halogen bulbs (G4), and the transformer blew. I thought that now would be a great time to upgrade the transformer/fitting to support LED lighting.

I bought 5x LED lights (3watts each), and an LED driver (max 18watt rating, 240v AC to 12v DC) to replace the old transformer within the light fitting. Everything seemed to work fine, the lights switch on perfectly, but the moment I switch off the light, the bulbs switch off, but after 1 second, they flash once, and then switch off. (Not sure how relevant this is, but the switch is a simple on/off switch, rather than a dimmer).

I've tried searching various forums, and I havent been able to find a definitive answer. I did however read something about RC Contact Suppressors or CapLoads being used, but wasn't sure whether this applied to me. I was hoping maybe someone here may be able to shed some light for me.

Does anyone know the reason for this? Should I be worried? Is there any way I can resolve this?

LED Driver

LED lights


texts:
May have been asked and answered already but GE Side by Side working seemingly fine but i have noticed that when the compressor comes on (I am assuming) it is causing a substantial power draw in the condo( lights dim). And I can hear a click.

Any thoughts would be helpful. As I said it is working fine otherwise. It does get very little use as this is vacation property.

Thanks in advance


texts: Can camera wires be placed under the roof tiles?

texts: I am about to have my roof tiles removed temporarily to place new roof paper down. Can the camera wires currently running over the tiles, now be put under them?


texts: Can these posts be removed to open up this staircase railing?will I have to reinforce this beam? If so how would I do that?

texts:
I noticed the showhome of our model had a basement renovated with an open staircase and I'm wondering how simple it would be to do this in our home. I've attached a photo of what it looks like in the showhome as well as what we have in our basement. Can someone please tell me if it's safe to remove a part of these posts as highlighted in my picture. Or if I would need to reinforce the beam?
Thank you!


texts: How do I get 2x6 and up pine, or a close alternative, in California?

texts:
I am building ana white style farmhouse tables with planked tops. Most people that I see building these online are using 2x pine. It is cheap and drier than some wood. Here in Northern California, the only pine I can find is in 1xs or 2x4. I am wanting to find 2x6 and up pine for planked tables.

The only wood source I can get in 2x6 and up is douglas fir. However, it is wet wood, even though it is kiln dried, and worries me to build table tops out of it.

How can I get 2x6, 2x8 and 2x10 planks of pine in California? Or, what is a good alternative for cheap dry wood that will be stained?


texts: I am laying sheet vinyl on a Dricore Subfloor membrane panel 23.25 inch x 23.25 inch sub floor do I need to do anything more before I lay the vinyl


texts: I have red staining leaking through tile grout in our shower stall. I presume it is caused by Redguard Waterproofing on the backerboard. How do I get rid of the continuous red staining, including down on to the shower floor?


texts: Why does my furnace turn off after a few minutes, then re-ignite?

texts:
I have a Goodman 80% furnace in my barn dated 1999 it runs for about 5-10 minutes then flame kicks off for about 2 minutes and re-lights. It does not go into lockout mode (keeps cycling this way). When t-stat reaches called for temp furnace will shut down til called for again.

I have replaced the limit switch already. Flame sensor would not be the problem because it heats for 5-10 minutes at a time, however I did clean it with scotchbrite pad to rule out that possibility. I am using the bottom of furnace for cold air and no filter. Furnace is hanging 42"above floor.


texts: How do I refinish around an existing basement window?

texts:
Our previously finished basement was a combination of drywall and wood paneling over concrete block with no insulation. We removed the drywall and paneling over the block and intend on adding foam insulation and studding out a wall, as described here.

The basement has an existing window that was recently installed. As near as we can tell, the window was installed over the existing drywall and window sill.

This existing sill and drywall (see below) will not extend to meet the addition of the 2" insulation and studded wall. Because the window sits on the existing sill, I don't believe I can replace the sill or drywall without first removing the window.

Should I bite the bullet and remove the window, or is it acceptable to install a new, longer sill over the existing one?

Placing new drywall and sill over the existing seems like the easiest path, but does it create a nightmare for the next owner when they go to replace the window?

Is there a better way?

Thanks!


texts:
For a homemade fitness equipment I need to attach a bar to a door frame without using screws or modifying/damaging the doorframe. The only idea I had was to use a pullup bar which one can clamp into the door frame, something like this

The problem is that the bar has to be heavy duty anchored, say it should be able to hold forces equivalent to min. 120 kg in each direction. I don't want a solution where something is anchored in a closed door!

The project was inspired by this YouTube video and this YouTube video but will be a bit more complicated. I sketched a basic example how it will be used in the second image below (however the device will become more complicated and powerfull, but the problem of anchoring it in the doorframe without closing the door remains the same).

Edit: The solution (once built) should be easy to mount and unmount in just a few minutes.

Edit: The top bar on the second picture is not the (main) problem. There I can use my other pull up bar (Iron Gym) which is more secure and heavy duty but which I can mount only on the top of the doorframe so it doesn't help with the bar on the bottom.


texts: How wide can a sliding door be open, before it becomes a security risk?

texts:
I have a sliding door in my bedroom that I would like to put a deadbolt in and have it left open at night to let a breeze in, but I don't want anyone to be able to get in while I'm asleep.

Is there a recommend maximum distance? I know for railings in pool fences and on decks its 4inches or 100mm to stop children getting through, is it the same for security?


texts:
My downspout, next to a stucco wall, used to go into a cast iron pipe. Recently, the water must have gotten behind the stucco and in the winter, the stucco wall collapsed, pushed the downspout out of the way, and filled the cast iron pipe with stucco debris. I was able to clean up the vertical part of the pipe (about 2') with a shopvac. But then the pipe turns the corner and I can no longer reach past the corner.
I know that it's still completely clogged. When it rains, it instantly fills up. Also, the shopvac hose gets sucked in when I put it down there, confirming that it's clogged. I imagine that there are large chunks of stucco past the turn.
A roto-rooter type company is coming out tomorrow to take a look at the issue. Before I spend money on whatever they propose, are there diy things that I could try?


texts:
I have a light that has power to it and then from there goes to a switch.  So neutral is hot back to light so you can turn it off and on.

Behind the switch in the box the power is split to 3 outlets.  I am getting rid of one of the outlets.  Is it possible for me to pull the wire from that outlet into the switch box to power a second switch for the fan?  So the power comes in from two lines but they are all the same breaker.  They will also be on separate switches.


texts: What is the industry term for house wiring diagrams?

texts:
I am doing electrical work in my own home. Primarily replacing old sockets and fixtures. Through the course of this work I am finding odd, but not unsafe, wiring paths. I want to document these paths so that I can develop a plan to improve them. I also want to document my own work to help the next guy who does work in my house.

What is the diagramming style or name for the plan that an electrician would use in a residential home in the US?

I want to know what this is called so that I can then tell myself, "I need to make a $TERM diagram". I can then acquire the right rulers, templates, and graph paper to make those diagrams.


texts:
I’ve made a video of the issue.
I have a craftsman garage door mechanism and can open the garage door with the remote but unable to close my garage door via the remote. I can do both the tasks via the wall button.
I got the house recently and the garage has been closed for six years. Is there something wrong I am doing here?
Can someone help please…


texts:
During the inspection on a home we are looking to purchase, our inspector found that chicken wire was being used to hold insulation in between the floor joists in the crawl space. The chicken wire is touching many of the water lines, and where the two metals are touching there is corrosion. At the points where they are touching, there is a very small amount of water. Possibly pinholes, possibly just condensation.

Our inspector says they need replaced, theirs says it's no problem. Who is right?

Here's a photo of one of the worst pipes.


texts: How should I hang Christmas lights where I don't have any gutters?

texts: I finally got around to hanging Christmas lights this year. I bought gutter clips so I wouldn't have to permanently install anything, but I just realized that I don't have gutters along a pitched portion of my roof. The soffit there isn't perforated, so I can't hang them through it either. I did notice the metal flashing (maybe it's flashing? someone correct me if I didn't use the right term) is hung with nails underneath the eaves. Can I nail into that without worrying about moisture problems?


texts: Identifying my trip-lever drain stopper to buy a replacement

texts:
I inherited a rented apartment with a trip-lever drain stopper in the bathtub with the stopper itself missing (see attached images). The maintenance told me that they cannot replace the missing part and gave a generic rubber cover instead, which is both inconvenient and hideous.
Ignoring the fact that this apartment is some 60 years old and the entire thing is in pretty bad condition, what would I need to know to order a replacement myself? Presumably, installing it would be as simple as sticking it in the sinkhole once I have it.
I can see that the lever handle was made by Kohler, but I am unable to find any similar-looking products on their website and their customer support told me that I have to replace the entire bathtub which seems a bit excessive. I am worried about ordering a plug from a different manufacturer as I have no way of knowing if it is going to be compatible (although presumably the only thing that matters is the diameter, but I am not sure).
I was hoping to get some advice on finding a suitable replacement for the missing component that I can buy and install myself without getting Kohler to replace the entire unit.
Unfortunately, I know absolutely nothing about plumbing and have never had an issue like this before.


texts: Is the blue conduit connected to my sub-panel suitable for a 50A branch circuit?

texts:
I have to add a 50 amp circuit to the sub panel in my garage.  I found one of the open knockouts in the top of the panel to have a blue flexible conduit looking stuff in it which runs up into the ceiling.  I thought, "cool, this guy planned ahead".  So my plan was to just this to run the cable up into the ceiling then down a wall where I need the receptacle.

Question is, IS this conduit, and can I use it for this purpose?  I'll be running 6-3 cable (romex, I suppose).


texts: Adding a ceiling fan to circuit of light fixtures

texts:
I have 4 recessed 40 watt lights in the ceiling of the living room. They are all on the same switch (circuit). Can I add a ceiling fan to the room and splice the conductor into one of the 4 J boxes so I won't have to run new wire?
Thanks
Matt


texts: I have a fiberglass door exposed to elements and the paint is starting to peel off. Can I spray any waterproof coat or sealer for wood surfaces from home improvement stores to protect the pain. The paint dept. people at Home Depot recommended Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Clear Coat Gloss for Wood/Plastic/Metal. Any thoughts on how I can protect my fiberglass door paint without repainting.


texts: Is it possible to use a scaffold ladder as access to loft?

texts:
I am looking for affordable, safe access to the 7'x 7' sleeping loft we are soon to build and came across a scaffolding ladder with handrails for under $100.
Is this a crazy idea or a viable option?
This will be in a concrete block 7'x 15' concrete block shed
Any thoughts/ideas appreciated. I attached an example image of the stair.


texts: Where do I install my hairpin legs on this 8 foot long butcher block for my new workstation desk?

texts:
So this is my first DYI wood project for my new workstation desk. I purchased this Baltic birch butcher block and finished it myself. Not bad for my first go! It's 8 feet wide, 25" deep and 1.75 (1" 3/4) thick. It's a heavy boy.
For my legs I purchased these 28 inch ones. They're solid but the 1 inch dry wall screws that arrived with them are poor quality so I'm going to pick up some wood screws.
Questions:

Where should I install the legs from the edges? It says 2 inches from the edge. Will that be enough for an 8 foot wide heavy butcher block? I don't see a problem with bowing in the center. Is there a rule of thumb for installing legs? I'm worried I'm gonna mess it up.

The holes in the leg plates are 1/4" in diameter. The desk is 1.75 (1" 3/4) thick. What kind wood screw size will do? Also, do you recommend I drill a pilot holes for birch wood?

Apologies for the super newb questions. Thanks a bunch!


texts: Garage flat roof conversion to pitched roof

texts: A contractor told us it would be cheaper if we left the existing flat roof in place and then added the new pitched roof. Is this an advisable thing to do or is it a shortcut that we should steer clear of?


texts: unable to move the collar to get to cartridge

texts:
I am trying to remove the cartridge to replace it but the collar wont budge doesn't appear to turn and we are the new owners of the property, no tools were left sadly.
There are 4 holes on the inside of the collar around the cartridge is it possible these need a key of sorts to help me screw it out?


texts: How to calculate what wattage transformer to use for LED light strip

texts:
I am looking to purchase some LED light strips, and I have seen these:

7.5 Watt RGB LED Tape

They are 7.5w, and have 150 LED lights over a span of 5m and the website states that they are 12V. But I am not sure what transformer/driver to use for these lights. The QA section, below the product description mention:

" To work out what transformer you require this is quite simple. You take the amount of LED tape you have in metres and x this by the wattage of the LED tape you have, again per metre.
For example 7m of 4.8w LED tape: 7 x 4.8w = 33.6w Therefore you would require a 60w transformer. "

So for 5 meter of 7.5watts the calculation is 5 x 7.5 = 37.5W
The website has power transformers, but at 100W and 150W, and when I rang them they were out of stock and the prices for the transformers were about 3 times what I can see on ebay.

Firstly, can I use a transformer that is producing 40W which is just above the 37.5W that I need, instead of a 150W transformer that they sell and claim is compatible for this LED strip?

Here is one transformer, that looks equivalent to the one they sell, at a relatively affordable price:

This gives me 12v x 12.5A = 150W, but I can see a 15V x 10A, which also gives 150W. Which of these is suitable for me (as they both produce the same wattage, but have different Volts/Amps), and what do the different Amps and Volts mean?


texts:
I want to replace a saddle valve with a sharkbite (Close quarters + HVAC nearby, I really don't want to solder it :) ) slip tee (3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4"), but I can't seem to figure out the right couplers I would need to get the 1/4" copper ice maker line onto the 3/4" tee.

So far I'm thinking about getting the 3/4" slip tee + I already have a 3/4" copper pipe for the ice maker side of the slip tee, but after that I don't know what to put on the end of the 3/4" pipe.

How should I make the transition from the 3/4" pipe coming from the tee to the 1/4" ice maker line?

Here is the current situation


texts:
A pretty chilly draft is coming in under my kitchen door. Although this is the only door in the house without a door sweep, the door is weatherstripped and has a recently installed storm door outside.

I do want to install a door sweep in the future, but since I just moved in, I bought a door snake as a temporary measure to stop the draft. Unfortunately, it seems to do very little. There's still a lot of air coming in around the snake, even though it completely covers the bottom of the door.

Are there any other quick and easy ways of fixing a draft? It's strange to me that the storm door isn't more effective at keeping air out.


texts: When taping cement board do I need to tape at the walls?

texts:
I am preparing to put down cement board for a bathroom tile install.  I understand, I need to tape at the seams.  Should I tape the edges where the cement board meets the drywall or the tub as well?

I was told to provide a 1/4 inch gap between each seam and the walls, so that makes me "feel" that I should do something, but what?

Also prior to putting down the cement board do I need to apply any caulk or anything to where the plywood meets the tub?  Or will that be "sealed" with the mortar when applying beneath the cement board and then again when laying the tile.

Edit:
Thanks for all the responses, I am worried I may have chosen the wrong product to put BENEATH the cement board. I am using James Hardie Backer Board and the two guys at the big box who both said they do tiling on the side use below.

Steps were advised as follow:

Put down tile adhesive, put down the backer board let dry.
Create thinset use between backer board with tape.
After dry use thin set again to lay down tiles.


texts: Hanging medium weight things from popcorn ceiling in rental

texts:
I'm trying to add hanging lights to a rental property I'm living in. The lights + fixtures are about a pound each.

Unfortunately, the place has this ugly, bumpy popcorn ceiling which makes it very had to stick things to. I tried command strips which failed in minutes. I also tried duct tape which lasted a bit longer but failed after a few hours.

I'm not allowed to modify the ceiling in any non-reversible way (no holes whatsoever).

Does anyone have any ideas on how to attach things to this trash ceiling?


texts: what should be "ideal" floor coloring in a bright area?

texts:
I am planning to go for white tiles . I live in a place where there is a lot of light (near the equator) . Will white be good or should I go for little darker colors (since white reflects a lot of light) ?

edit : This is not a question to choose color, but to understand light vs dark .


texts: What are the iron bars and threaded rods sticking up out of my backyard?

texts: What are these bolts and metal rods sticking out the ground?


texts: Can I adjust the temperature of the water in my radiators?

texts:
I'm a complete newbie when it comes to HVAC. I did manage to install a new thermostat with help from here so I try again. I have a oil burner baseboard hot water system. My hot tap water is also heated through the burner. I know how I can change the temperature for the tap hot water, but can I change the temperature of the water that goes through my baseboard radiators? I attach a picture of what the system looks like since I am not able to describe the it in any meaningful way hoping the picture may tell someone something.

I think I found the aquastat for the heating. It's on the boiler itself. I have attached two new pictures. Is there any benefit to setting the temperature up? I also wonder what that metal piece attached to the temperature wheel is? That piece is set at around 170 it seems.


texts: Drilling a 1-1/8" hole in plastic with a Dremel

texts:
Forgive me for being a complete beginner to this; I have a Dremel 3000 with the standard complement of attachments, and it's been useful to sand some items and brush up others.

I have a piece of plastic in which I need to cut a 1-1/8" hole, preferably as accurately as possible.

Can I do this with the Dremel, perhaps by buying another bit for it? I'm in the UK, if that helps with sourcing.

In my research, I've been told that standard drill bits will probably not survive the higher RPMs of the Dremel. A suggestion has been to crudely cut a hole to size, and smooth it with the Dremel afterward.

Is there a better way than the above, or am I somewhat stuck without buying a drill?


texts: What type of underlayment should I use for an above ground pool?

texts:
I recently bought a non-inflatable, steel frame above ground pool (12 ft diameter, 3 ft depth).  I want to set it up on a slab of concrete, but I have a couple of concerns about the wear on the bottom liner of my pool:

Joints in my concrete may stretch the liner to fill the joints (under water pressure)
Roughness of my concrete may scratch the liner

Are these valid concerns?  If so, what type of underlayment should I use?  I'm considering 1/2" thick foam insulation, but I'm not sure if that minds getting wet or not.  Also, I'm not sure if I can put the legs of my pool on top of it without the legs tearing through over time.

Any suggestions?


texts: wire on the floor. What is it likely was used for?

texts:
I bought a rehab house.
This is what I think was a laundry room because of the drier hookup.
What is this wire laying on the floor? What was it used for?

my current thoughts:

a) There are many baseboard heaters in the house - could there have been a baseboard heating panel there?
b) I cannot find a water heater in the house... it was taken. Could that have been a water heater connection?


texts: Is it possible to seal just patches of new concrete?

texts:
I recently had some interior drain tile installed in my basement. During this time I also took it upon myself to fix a few decent sized chips/cracks with a patching compound. The vast majority of my basement is still the original slab.
It's now been about a month and from what I can tell I should be sealing the new concrete to prevent water from wicking up, protect the concrete, etc.
Due to budgetary (and other) reasons, I'd rather not seal all of the old concrete along with the new stuff right now, unless I really need to. Is this a reasonable approach, or is it absolutely imperative that it all gets re-sealed at once for some reason?


texts: Is it safe to hang a 39lb projector screen from a drywall ceiling without using the joists? I'm having a debate with someone over how we should hang a projector from the ceiling. I want to place screws into the framing, however the joists are off center from the wall and would either require chains or that the projector screen just be off center. The person I'm debating with wants to use a steel toggle bolt anchor or some other method of hanging a heavy item in drywall without a joist.


texts: Which floor sander do I need to tidy a room and to strip paint off a deck?

texts:
I'd like to sand the hardwood in a bedroom and a somewhat weathered deck. The bedroom is mostly in good condition, but in a couple of spots the wood is worn from traffic and furniture. I could forego sanding the deck and just paint it, but after a small experiment with a belt sander, I found that the surface is much smoother/nicer after sanding. The main difficulty there is that to get the surface to be smooth, I also have to remove the old paint, which may use a lot of sheets of sandpaper (or is it actually possible to take off a sheet of sandpaper, shake the paint off, and reinstall it? —— alternatively, is it possible to hose down the deck to dislodge some of the old paint, and then continue with fresh sandpaper?).

My local big box has three kinds of sanders for rental. Which one should I use? Will just one fit both jobs?

Square Buff Floor Sander

Floor Sander

U-Stand Pro Random Orbit Floor Sander


texts:
My sink is leaking and I’m sure it’s from the lock nut (I’ve put an arrow on the pic at where the water seems to be coming from).
Can anyone guide me on how to fix it? (Preferably by replacing the leaking part, I don’t want to just seal the leak and have to repair it at a later time.)
Thank you!


texts: How to connect LED tape strips in separate locations to one power source?

texts:
We're looking into running LED Tape Lights under the wall cabinets in our kitchen.  We have three sections that would get the lights and we need them all powered by a single switch.  There is a switch that goes up into the attic in the middle of the kitchen where we used to have a light so that's not a problem.

In the linked picture, the RED lines are where the LED Tapes would go.  The cooktop is in the gap at the top and a window is over the sink.  There's no way to run something across the openings so I think I need to run three separate lines down from the attic.
Pic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2rsyzpnbw2qf3jr/led%20tape.jpg?dl=0

The length of the actual LED sections are approximately 14", 100", & 12".  Each run would also have to come down from the attic to the bottom of the cabinets...

The two ways I could think of are:

1) Using one Tape power supply in the attic and then splitting it off to go to the three areas for tapes.  Not sure how long I can run things from a single power supply
2) Using one power supply for each section of tape (or maybe one for the long section and a second one for the short ones?)

I've never used the LED Tape lights before so just wanted to get some basic feedback before I heard to the store and stare at the options hanging on the racks.

Thanks!


texts: Cedar beveled siding does not seem to be overlapped and nailed properly

texts:
Until I decided to replace a couple of ~16-inch long, beveled-siding from exterior I have never given thought on the width of the exposed face. On my house, the exposed face of the cedar siding measures 4". When I removed the old pieces, I noticed that they are 5-1/2" wide (actual size.) My replacement pieces were also 5-1/2" wide. This means that overlap between the beveled pieces are 1-1/2". And the nails were put ¾" to 1" above the bottom of the planks. This means that nail goes through the overlapping piece under, and most likely cracks it.
At the beginning I did not make anything of it, since I had no clue. However, when I did Google search, I have realized that every website recommends that nails should not go through the bottom piece but slightly over it. Now, with the current overlap size of 1-1/2" and where the nails are put, that is not possible. I have big house and all the exposed faces measure 4" or slightly narrower to 3-3/4". The house is 30 years old.
I am wondering if the builders did it wrong from the beginning, or installation instructions changed in the past 30 years. I have some other cracked beveled siding which are as long as 14 ft long. I just wanted to get an opinion before I start my repairs. Should I overlap them as it's (ignore if it cracks) or should I cut the siding to a narrower size so that nail does not pierce the plank underneath. Or Should I put the nails slightly higher than 1-1/2 inch from the bottom of the plank, to avoid the the plank under. Thank you.


texts: Can I use 0000 steel wool to remove streaks in my polyurethane finish?

texts: Can I use 0000 steel wool to make a better uniform finish?


texts: Exterior lamp post trips breaker after a few hours

texts:
I replaced the photocell on an exterior lamp, removed the fixture and connected it to an outlet on the same outside circuit and it burned for 4-5 hours with no issue.

Then I removed 2 of the three Cree low wattage bulbs and the one remaining bulb tripped the circuit breaker after a few hours.

I thought if there is a problem with the underground power cable it would trip quickly, not after an hour or so.  What could be causing it to trip in this manner?

I will note that this is an old fixture and the problem appears to be getting worse.


texts: How to fill gaps in floor after wall removal

texts:
Having recently removed a separating wall between kitchen and kitchen-diner, there is now a gap left in the floor that needs to be filled (150mm x 3000mm).

The floor is ground floor, laid on-top of concrete and is comprised of 25mm thick polystyrene on the bottom, 18mm thick chipboard on top and a layer of plastic sheeting between.

We want to have LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile) installed like this.

Here is a picture of the gap:

What would be considered best practice in filling this gap to prepare for LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile)?

I was thinking to either:

Purchase some sort of ready mixed compound to pour in the gap. If so what sort of compound would be preferable?

or

Fill the gap with polystyrene, chipboard and a layer of plastic sheeting between. If so what to do with the small gaps between the old and new?


texts: Is it OK if my Durock cement board got wet?

texts: I bought some cement board for the bathroom remodel and I stored it in the garage. No idea how but each sheet got a couple wet spots through them. I moved them inside to dry. After they dry are they still usable?


texts:
Our house has a flat rooftop. I'd like to a planter box up there 2x3 ft, 15 inches deep. Online calculators say it would take 650 lbs (~300 kg) of soil to fill it.

Would it be safe to have this much weight on the rooftop? It's a 2-storey wood frame house.


texts: I have a two wire switch (old house) with no ground wire. I want to replace with a three way switch there and across the room. Is this a possibility?


texts: Foul smell coming from around bathtub tap, but it's not the overflow. What else could it be?

texts:
Every time I take a bath, while I am lying in the bath I notice a foul smell which eminates from around the tap area.

At first I thought it was the overflow drain, so I did the usual full deep cleaning routine and it didn't help. Then I actually completely sealed up the overflow first using a condom and an O-ring and later using mouldable plastic. The seal is air- and water-tight (i.e. I can fill the tub with water past the overflow and no water drains and no air escapes.

I have of course cleaned around the tap itself, including its base and the spout/nozzle including with a biocide. And I figure the smell can't be coming from the pipes which feed the tap, because (obviously) the taps are off when I'm lying in the bath!

But the smell is still there. There is no visible dirt, grime, or buildup anywhere nearby.

It's not the water itself. The water smells fine; it's definitely an airborne smell and it only eminates from near the tap.

Any ideas about what this could be? It's driving me crazy.


texts: How to hook up new 5 wire HVAC cable to newer HVAC unit with only 2 wires coming from it?? WITH PHOTOS

texts:
I have a newer HVAC unit that was installed using only 2 wires to control the heating only on the unit. The unit is capable of having AC connected and I would like to wire it so that it will work with my new Honeywell Wifi Thermostat AND be capable of having the AC hooked up at a later date.

I think i know how to get the G, W, R and W wire hooked up, but i dont know where to put the blue wire? can anyone help?

This is the existing thermostat how its currently connected:

This is the existing wiring diagram that came with the Heating Unit:

This is how I believe it needs to be hooked up when i install the new 5 wire HVAC Cable, I am wondering how to install the 5th wire to the system to work with the wifi theremostat?:


texts:
I was replacing a GFCI, and noticed 7 total wires:

2 load wires

4 line wires

1 ground

It is my understanding that the line wires are the power source coming to the GFCI, and the load wires are providing power to the next receptacle (or switch, etc).

Does anyone know why there is 4 line wires? The instructions on the new GFCI explicitly stated not to use if more than 4 total wires (e.g., 2 line, 2 load) not including the ground.

Do I replace with the new GFCI exactly as found? Or does this pose some type of hazard?


texts: Will porcelain tile provide enough thermal mass for off peak heat storage?

texts:
The U.S. department of energy suggests electric radiant heat can be cost effective if preheated during off peak electricity hours if installed within an appropriately massive covering.

Is there a way I can predict heat retention over the course of a winter day? In particular, I'm interested in installing it under porcelain tile.  We do have an existing dual source furnace, but want to install this to avoid waking on stone cold floors in the morning.

Department of energy states:

from http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/radiant-heating

Because of the relatively high cost of electricity, electric radiant floors are usually only cost-effective if they include a significant thermal mass such as a thick concrete floor and your electric utility company offers time-of-use rates.

Time-of-use rates allow you to "charge" the concrete floor with heat during off-peak hours (approximately 9 p.m. to 6 a.m.). If the floor's thermal mass is large enough, the heat stored in it will keep the house comfortable for eight to ten hours without any further electrical input, particularly when daytime temperatures are significantly warmer than nighttime temperatures. This saves a considerable number of energy dollars compared to heating at peak electric rates during the day.


texts: I live in central Florida.  I had a sinkhole 10' long by 2' wide by 6' deep. 3 years later it is now 25'L x 8'W x 2'D. Growing at this rate, from previous postings, it seems to be an underground stream. I'm very reluctant to try to fill it because who knows when it will stop, and it seems to be a lost cause. Can a professional stop something like this?


texts: Risk from installing a "Nest" thermometer without shutting off home power?

texts:
I'm trying to install a new Nest-brand thermometer in my parents' house (unscrewing a thermometer from the wall and screwing on the new one.

The first instruction in the manual is to shut off power to the house. What is the risk of not shutting off the power?


texts:
I replaced my kitchen faucet the oter day and when I hooked the garbage disposal back up to it's dedicated outlet, nothing happened.  Next, I plugged a lamp into the outlet and flipped on the switch for the disposer - still nothing.  Then I removed the outlet and checked the incomming wires with a voltmeter; <10 volts indicated when the circuit was energized.
  I checked the circuit breaker with a voltmeter and it indicated a full 120 volts.  What's going on?
  All other kitchen outlets are working and the single GFI is not tripped.


texts: We recently had our kitchen remodeled and after the installation, I noticed that the power for the garbage disposal was placed right below the faucet. This prevents the faucet hose from smoothly moving when using the detachable faucet head (I have a Delta Ashton, #19922Z-SSSD-DST). When I pull out the faucet head, I have to push the hose back into faucet, which is a mild pain. Before attempting to move the outlet, any suggestions on how I might get the hose to move more smoothly around it?


texts:
Using a timer switch for power, how to wire two lights so that when one is on the other is off.
In the dull and cold winter days I am trying to grow seedlings. The light is insufficient during the day and so is enhanced with grow lights, which should be off at night, but the nights are cold so I want pad heating on then.


texts: Should I repair or replace a dryer heating element and housing connector?

texts:
I have a Samsung dryer that has a burnt out heating element.  I purchased a new one and removed the old one from the dryer.  I have no problem with any of this.

My problem is that the element connectors go through the housing and connect to wires through a ceramic piece as shown here:

I broke this piece by accident and I can't purchase this by itself.

Is it safe to super glue it and wrap electrical tape around it?
What purpose does it serve?  I am thinking that it keeps the wires from touching the housing.

The housing (the image) that contains that piece runs from $65 to $100.  I don't need the whole thing but I will purchase if that is my only option.

Any suggestions?


texts: Need an alternate way to install hand-spray bidet on my toilet - can I Tee off the 3/8th input valve?

texts:
I bought some hand-spray bidet kits to add to some toilets.  I've done this before on standard toilets, and the installation went smoothly - just remove the input pipe from the port on the underside of the toilet tank, insert the provided T-valve, and connect the hand-spray pipe to the T-valve.

But in my new house, I have some toilets that are non-standard (Porcelanosa NK One) and which do not give access to the input port on the back of the tank.  The toilets are fixed to the ground and flush with the wall, and so there is no good access to where the input pipe connects.  I can squeeze my hand back there and kind of feel it, but certainly could not unscrew anything and install new plumbing there.

As a result, I am stuck with trying to Tee off the other end of the input pipe - the part that comes out of the wall.  The pipe size is different than that on the bottom of the toilet port - the wall valve seems to be a 3/8" compression valve, compared to the 7/8" valve at the input port of the toilet tank.  So I cannot use the T-valve that came with the bidet kit.

My question is this - can I just buy an off-the-shelf 3/8" T-valve, insert it between the existing shut-off valve and the input pipe that runs up to the toilet, and connect the hand-sprayer to that T-valve?

Is there any reason such a T-valve will be unhappy having a hand-spray attachment on it?  Will the pressure be significantly different at the end of the hand-spray attachment?  It won't have the on-off valve that the provided T-valve does, but I never use that anyways (and if I did need to turn off pressure to the hand-spray - say, to remove the end and de-scale it - I could just turn off pressure to the entire toilet).


texts:
My attic floor was home to nesting mice for years before I bought the house. I've kept the mice away, but the smell hasn't lessened after a year of ventilation.

Short of replacing the wood, is there any way to remove the smell?


texts: How can I prevent water from entering my carport? My entire front yard and driveway slope toward my house. Negative draining issue. I have french (or trench) drains installed across the entire width of the front of my house. However, I don't have anything preventing the water running down the driveway from entering my carport. If I could just redirect it, I think the water would bypass my carport and head down my backyard if there were something to redirect it. I'm attaching a picture to show you. There is a drain on the left side of my carport (if you're facing the carport). One option might be to install another similar drain across the entire width of my driveway right before the carport entrance and then connect that drain to the existing drain. OR, is there a less invasive and less expensive option that would work? I've been considering whether a burm (sp?) or speed bump would solve the problem. Any ideas? I can't figure out how to add a picture...


texts:
This weekend, the door of our oven (a gas oven, FWIW) fell apart. The bottom of the outer part of the door was glued to its hinges and somehow lost cohesion. The top is connected to the inner part of the door with screws. Furthermore the inner part has a glas window which fell off a long time ago and just dangled between the parts of the door basically forever (we took over the oven from the previous tenants) but it seems to have been glued to the door in the past.

Basically, it seems to me as if I would be able to fix it. First glue the window to the inner door and then apply glue to the hinges, mount everything with vises and then let the glue harden. Anyway, I'd like to know

whether it's really as simple as I imagined
whether there are any caveats I have to be careful about and
which glue I'd have to use if I decided to do it, normal household-glue would not be suitable I'd guess

(I can add a photo of the door later, maybe this evening.)


texts: Do I need to staple cable when installing lighting fixtures?

texts:
I understand that when doing new installations (not fishing wire) you need to secure the cable with staples or another approved method, but do I have to secure the cable within 12" of light fixtures in my ceilings since it's not an outlet? The light fixtures are those recessed lights that you just insert into a hole in the drywall. They are not secured to anythings besides the drywall.

The ceiling is a basement ceiling so the wiring is going through some joists.

This is for a new installation. The ceiling drywall isn't installed yet.

This is the fixture I am using.


texts: How do fish tank stands take the weight?

texts: So I was wondering how they take the weight? I have one tank that is 125 litres (33g) and its on the fluval 125 stand which i know is made for the tank. But with the weight of the water and tank when full how does it handle this? Because the stand has no central support at all? Its on support at the left and right side.


texts: Very strange: tub & shower blocked, but toilet and sink fine, and snake won't fix it

texts:
Here's a doozy that so confused my plumber he left without fixing the problem: the tub and shower are both backed up but are somehow connected, since water in one will cause bubbles and eventually, a little bit of water, to show up in the other. I put a snake down both (15 feet), but the clog wasn't fixed (there's more than 15 feet between the shower and tub -- it's two adjacent bathrooms). The sink and toilets drain instantly, and I can hear the water going down the pipe in the crawl space.

I'm guessing there is a T junction connecting the shower/tub to the main stack, and when I put the snake in, it just goes straight past the clog and towards the other shower/tub. (However, when the plumber put his 25 foot snake in, it didn't come out the other shower, which it theoretically should have).

Is there a snake that can turn corners that I can force down the T junction? How can I fix this?


texts:
First of all, I am REALLY not the manual type of guy. I am renting this place, with this flooring in the entrance and the kitchen, that is in very bad shape. It's old, very used, which males it very dirty very quickly. The owner already told me I could do what I want, that it doesn't matter since when I leave he will redo the condo to sell it...

I have 300 square feet to cover.

I was considering peel and stick tiles at first, but I hear from a lot of people that it will unpeel, and that it is not good, etc.

The cheapest tiles at Home Depot are $0.59 per square foot. They told me to apply some glue under however. Total would be under $200.

Then the owner told me to find vinyl planks. I found some, the brand is Beaulieu, it is $1.69 per square foot on sale, can be laid over the existing linoleum, no glue. Total: around $500

Then I thought about Vinyl sheets. I found some at Lowe's or Home Depot that are decently priced. I could cover everything for like $300. Without cost of glue (if needed, I don't even know). The issue here is that the existing vinyl has some a texture though it's not very deep, but I am scared it would show up through the new one.

Would it, even if I get a vinyl sheet that is 3 millimeters thick?

Any advice or other option?


texts: If I leave the refill hose in the Overflow tube it keeps running.  But if I just put the refill hose in the tank it fills to the place I have it set at and stops.  Is this a problem.  The guy at Home Depot says yes but he told me to just replace the toilet.  Really I said.  It is not the trap because why would it fill at all if it was that.  I think it is something in the overflow tube.  But do I have to change it.


texts: Flipped Home - Cracks Appearing on Wall Corners - Cause for Concern or Normal?

texts:
I purchased and moved into my first home about 3 months ago. It's originally a home built in the 1930's. An investor bought it last year to completely gut and flip the property. A few of the walls were original, but for the most part, they redid everything.

Recently, I began to notice some cracking in the drywall on the stairwell to my basement where the wall meets the ceiling (pictures below). Every now and then, I'll see small pieces of the drywall on the ground from cracking. The stairwell was completely rebuilt and did not exist in the original house, so it's new.

I'm a 1st time homeowner so I don't know what's normal. Is this a cause for concern or is this normal? If it is a cause for concern, who should I call to take a look at it?

Thanks in advance for the help/


texts: how better to cut laminate planks -- with saws or laminate cutter

texts: In different videos I see that normally people prefer to use laminate planks cutter to table saw or similar. Is it just their preference or because of saw dust and such produced during sawing?


texts:
Two storey home, 14yrs old.  Concrete foundation.  Ground is mostly clay.  Steel I beam crossing the middle of the basement ceiling to distribute load.  The I beam is inset into the top of the concrete foundation.  The outside foundation wall appears to be failing where it meets the steel beam, but just on one end of the house.  However, the inside appears non-stressed.  How much trouble am I in (if any)?  Is this just cosmetic?

Pleasesayyes.

Outside view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxo3SkpN46OaV28wZHkyNlpaVG8/view?usp=docslist_api

Inside view (no visible cracks)

(I have more pics, but it wouldn't let me post more than 2)

3 months later...

Just for closure... I followed the given answer and seem to have had success.

@Jason Hutchinson  that would've been a good idea, but I ended up using a 5 pound sledge and busted out all the loose concrete which was pribald for the best.  It looked sandy inside the like the concrete may have had a nugget of unmixed sand or something clumped at that spot.  After the loose concrete was removed it exposed some rebar I was able to wrap wire around and bind in some huge metal spikes and long bolts I had on hand to give my planned patchwork more to hold to.  I bought a 80lb bag of fiber-laced anti-crack concrete mix, and a piece of melamine shelving from lowes to act as the outside form and give the smoothest finish.  Drilled some holes in the melamine.  Rigged up some of the wire around the rebar work and poked it though the holes... and used the wire though the holes to draw the melamine tight to the wall (twisting the wire around more bolts on the outside of the melamine till it tightened up).  It finished well.  Dark at first, but it has now lightened to (mostly) match the surrounding concrete. I think an inspector will pass it by.


texts: I have double stack switch with intention of 2 independent light areas ( undermount cabinet lighting and overhead pot light. When I connect black hot wire to black screw ( both feeds simultaneously connected via pre existing setup with double stacked switch) and black wiring independently connected out to pot light and undermount lighting through separate stacks via brass screws, pot light switches off and on independently- undermount cabinet lighting only switches on when pot light is on. Any suggestions to correct this situation would be greatly appreciated.


texts: I left a bag of opened Porcelain mortar in the garage for a week and during that time the temperature got below freezing. Can I use this mortar or does it have to be thrown out?


texts: What is the timeline for broken plumbing to cause damage to a house's foundation?

texts:
Assume a plumbing main breaks for whatever reason, and sewage begins to leak into the foundation of a house.

What is the typical timeline for events to play out? For example, plumbing breaks on day x, noticeable smells can be detected by day y, plumbing goes unfixed for z days, sewage continues to leak into the foundation until x days, foundation begins to shift at y days, cracks become visible in home's structure around z days, etc, so on and so forth.

Obviously, there are many factors involved that would cause these to differ from house to house, but I would like to get an overall general idea of the series of events.


texts: Why does washing machine not empty tub when finished, but instead start any program by emptying it?

texts:
After any program, including if I just soak some clothes and run an 8 minute centrifuging at full speed 1400rpm, somehow the washing cycle does not empty the tub. I know this, because, the next time I start a program, whether a full wash or just centrifuging, within the first few seconds, it let's out quite some water, I would guess 0.2 - 0.5 liters.

Is this an error, or is this normal behavior?

I believe this machine is of high quality amongst consumer washing machines, though around 8 years old. It's a Miele Novotronic W 1513.

As an experiment, I tried putting the drain hose into the shower, so that it sloped down all the way. The hose leaves the machine at the very top of the machine. This did not make a difference.


texts: Help identifying a plastic pipe at the base of the house

texts:
Last year I removed a patio because all of its deck was rotten, underneath I found a pipe - pictured.
Now I want to lay a concrete base for brick steps because the drop from the door was way to high. I wanted to make the steps wide enough to cover the unsightly pipe, but I don’t know whether I should and if it safe to do.
After taking off the bend it looks like the pipe leads straight under the house and there is nothing visible there.
I’m located in UK if that helps and the house is a mid-terraced one, built in 2006.


texts:
I was wondering about priming, and possibly partially water proofing a plaster wall for wallpaper. Right now it is mostly covered by drywall mud to iron out the original (110 yr old) uneven surface but right underneath is plaster (about 3/4" thick) over brick. I would like to also apply any treatment that would act as, however modest, baffle against water penetration between the wall substrate and the wallpaper (minimize) as it may be exposed to accidental leak from the roof above. But my priorities are proper priming first and water insulation second.
E.g. can I just apply the wallpaper on the sanded drywall mud over plaster or should I first prime it with something like Killz 2?


texts: Come along (Hoist Puller) vs Ratchet Strap

texts:
Does a Ratchet Strap rated at 10,000 pounds such as this one really have 5 times the pulling strenght of a "comealong" winch rated at 2 ton such as this one?

Ratchet straps are much cheaper, and a few feet of pulling is all I need.


texts: Lead paint test showed positive hours later

texts:
I'm getting some work done on my house and the guy doing the work wanted to test for lead paint. He scratched an area on a window sill, rubbed it with the spongy tip of a swab, and immediately declared it lead free cause it didn't change to the color of red. However, I just walked into the room three hours later and see the two spots he tested are both red. So what should I think of that?

I presume his test kit is designed to give an immediate result and, hours later, might be showing residue of lead from decades ago. Or perhaps just the breakdown of the chemicals in the test. I don't know.

EDIT: From looking around, one "instant" lead check swabber recommended by the EPA said theirs gives results in 30 seconds. We weren't in the room long but it was longer than 30 seconds.


texts: Why showing bad ground on my detached garage?

texts: Everything has to be conduit by code. When i use my stop shock tester everything in the house shows no problems which is two wired. However, when those wires run from the panel box to the detached garage, it shows bad ground. When i use two other testers that doesnt contain bad ground, it shows correct. The new receptacles and wiring i checked a half dozen times to the electrical outlets which is wired 100 percent correctly. Also to note before changing receptacles, the old receptacles also showed bad ground. Why the discrepancy between the house and the detached garage? Thank you again in advance.


texts: train xl 80 unit fires up then shuts right off

texts: i have a train xl80 furnace. When it calls for heat the draft inducer fan turns on and then the burner fires up for a short time then shuts off then it starts all over again.I am thinking its the flame sensor. please help.


texts: How to seal a hole in a plastic bottle properly?

texts:
I have to pass a 6mm diameter metal tube through a hole in a plastic bottle (common PET coke bottle) and seal it very well. I have a bottle with a 6mm hole that I did with a Proxxon FBS 240/E and a Grinding bit and the metal tube is thigh passing through the tube.

My question is: What is the best way to seal this hole against water and oil? Relative pressure from inside to outside is expected to be something not really big.

The iron tube is not expected to move but it can happen often, so it will be good to have some mechanical resistance in this, if possible (only if possible).

Every suggestion is welcome :)


texts: How can I dim LED recessed lights that are on the same switch as two ceiling fans without slowing the fans down?

texts:
I have 6 LED Dimmable recessed lights on the same switch as two ceiling fans. There are currently two three way switches that control everything. I want to be able to dim the LED lights without slowing the fans or ruining the motors.
I have read through a few questions here and see discussions on a smart switch. I like that idea but not sure if it will work in my situation and achieve what i'm looking to do or which one to buy.

Open to any and all suggestions. Just don't want to have to find a way to create a new separate switch.


texts: New 20amp circuit via old conduit or not?

texts:
I plan on creating a new circuit and running 12/2 to my microwave for an dedicated circuit. The current outlet for the microwave is old wiring running through conduit. The wiring comes in through a junction box labeled A, then runs about 3 feet over before dropping down the wall labeled B, and that runs into the microwave outlet box. It looks like that box A is already pretty crowded so it doesn't seem like the best option to run the new microwave circuit wire through the conduit via box A.

I would think the easiest solution would be just to put in a second outlet box and then run the new wire directly to it? I would have two outlets in the cabinet above the microwave, one dedicated to the microwave. Also, how can I tell what the capacity is of the old light/junction box that is running conduit? Maybe the box isn't overly crowded.

[![enter image description here][1]][1]


texts: I have a GFCI outlet in my garage. When it trips it shuts off the power to the light switch and another outlet on the same wall. I want to add an outdoor outlet on the outside of that wall in between the light switch and the other outlet. Would it be GFCI protected? Does an outdoor outlet need a GFCI plug?


texts: Are receptacles protected when downstream from ungrounded GFCI?

texts: I have an ungrounded circuit in my house with three-wire grounded receptacles.  If I install a GFCI, will the downstream receptacles be protected even if the GFCI is ungrounded?


texts: What else should I check when troubleshooting a light fixture?

texts:
Yesterday the fiance was in the kitchen and complained that one of the lights (three separate single bulb lights on the same switch that hang over our island) stopped working.
Had worked fine earlier in the day.

Checked the breaker, nothing tripped. This light is on a 3 gang switch plate with two other light fixtures elsewhere in the room which were and are still working fine. Checked the 3 bulbs in another fixture, all fine. Got my voltage tester out and checked the switch for the effected light, both the traveler (1 of 2) and the common have power when switch is on. The other traveler (2 of 2) and the common have power when the switch is OFF. They're never all on together. Light still doesn't work.

Replaced the switch. Problem persists. Thoughts?


texts: How do I repair splits in a wood cabinet going with the grain?

texts:
How do I fix 2 narrow splits on a wooden clock cabinet?  The splits are following the grain pattern. I want to fill them in and not notice them.

Should I use a colored wax stick?


texts: Mounting ceiling light with screws on side

texts: I bought a new ceiling light that has screw holes on the side.  Our previous light had screw holes on the bottom.  How can I attach the new light to a regular bracket- or do I need to buy something to help with this?


texts: Dryer vent: proximity to electrical wires

texts:
We recently moved into a new home, and the ductwork for the (as yet uninstalled) LG DLE3500W electric dryer is the flexible foil type. To avoid an additional bend in the duct, it runs across some electric wires. Assuming we eliminate the slack shown in the picture below, my questions are:

Is foil ductwork okay here, or should I replace it with aluminum ducts?
Is it okay for a dryer duct to be this close to electrical wiring, or does it need to be re-routed?


texts: What's the part of a lampshade that the finial screws into called?

texts: I inherited a floor lamp without a shade.  It has a harp, but there is nothing on the top of the harp to attach the shade.  If I have my terminology correct, I'm looking for the piece that that the finial will screw into.  It's circled in this photo.  What's this called, and can I buy one with a finial so I can buy a shade for the lamp?  Or should I just buy a new harp (that presumably will come with this piece)?


texts:
I'm renovating my bathroom and I was planning on chasing copper pipe in to the wall for a shower and a heated towel rail and then tiling over it. However I'm concerned about either there being a bad joint and it leaking or things not lining up properly.
So could I put braided metal hose in to the wall and the fill the cavity with fire foam? Am I right in thinking that this would be less likely to leak? Also does anyone know if this would comply with UK building regulations?

Thanks,

Joe


texts:
We had some water damage recently (leaky toilet supply line) that flooded an upstairs bedroom and the room immediately below it.  We had all the drywall torn out in anticipation of rebuilding and had a mold test done.  Despite the water being around for only a few hours before being discovered and removed, and there being no visible mold when the drywall was removed, elevated levels of mold spores were found in the air test.  Specifically, Aspergillus/Penicillium and Syncephalastrum (12k and 1k spores, respectively, compared to 0 in the outside air).

The company wants several thousand dollars for remediation.  I'd like to think there's a safe, reliable way for this to be done by the homeowner without spending a fortune.  I remember countless homes in my neighborhood back during the last major hurricane having tons of visible mold and nobody hiring professionals to take care of it.

What's the best way to go about doing this ourselves?


texts: What is the best way to build a box to elevate my bathroom fan above joists?

texts: I want to create a register/ return air type box about 4" high so my bathroom fan's exhaust will be above the joists so that the duct can have the shortest and most direct run to a gable vent. Is there a good pre-made product that would work to line it, or should I just line a box made of 2x4s with some galvanized steel sheet?