texts: To use or Not - Vapor Barrier for Brick House

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My wife and I recently purchased a mid-1800's brick schoolhouse and are remodeling it from top to bottom. We stripped the walls down to the original brick (3 brick layers deep), and we then proceeded to stud the brick walls with 2X4's in preparation for adding Roxxul stone wool insulation. Our plan is to install the insulation and hang 1/2" drywall to finish the wall. My question is whether or not it is necessary to install a vapor barrier after putting the insulation between the studs. I've read conflicting opinions on the use of vapor barriers with brick. Some people have said installing one can create mold issues in the wall and will not allow the wall to properly dry, while others say it is essential as the exterior of the brick can get icy due to moisture escaping from the porous brick. I am seeking some clarification and advice on how to tackle this problem! We live just north of Cincinnati on the boundary between climate zones 4 and 5. Any advice and help is much appreciated!

Thanks for reading.


texts: Mount an LCD TV to 30 year old masonry fireplace

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Power and HDMI are no issue. I'm worried about messing with the mortar. Any advice? Will this be an issue, more trouble than it's worth, etc?

I have some alternatives. Leave my TV on the mantle or pole mount it to a beam in the attic.


texts: Running two new circuits to outside backyard (One for swimming pool)

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I am looking to run two new circuits outside. Initially it was one circuit for a swimming pool, but I figure since I am doing the run to the other side of the yard, I should run another circuit for yard decorations, tools, etc.

I am going to use a GFCI circuit break for both, and I would like to run the same wires in the same conduit. I planned on making the pool circuit 20amps, and the secondary outlet 15amps. I have metal conduit in the house, and would like to lead out of the house from metal conduit to pvc conduit.

1)For inside the house, is it better to run a separate conduit line for these two circuits, or pull through an existing conduit to save time. Here are pictures of the basement ceiling conduit and breaker box, and the corner of the basement I would like to lead the conduit out at. Is there a circuit spot I need to come out of the house at, or any restrictions?

Bring electric out through this corner.

Would like to run conduit along fence line to corner gate, right side. The other trench in picture is for french drain I am installing. The trench would start from left of picture to fence. Pool will be around that corner as well.

Trench start from house

2) with the length of the run, about 75ft outside, and then about 40ft to run the wire from the breaker box to the otherside of the basement, then to outside, should I run 12guage wire for both the 20amp and 15amp circuits to reduce any voltage loss? Also, would the wires be 2 neutrals, and 2 hot, and then coming from the outside, 1 ground? What guage should the ground be?

3) can I come out of the house on an angle to shorten the length then with a 45 degree turn, then straight and then a 90 for 4ft, and another 90 for 1ft run then go up to surface mount..

4) how far above ground do the outlets need to be? And can both circuits sit on the same 4x4 post?

5)Anything else I should know?

I have the permit for the pool approved and I was told the electrical is included. I submitted the permit application before I decided to add the extra circuit. Would the second circuit in this scenario usually cover the second circuit inspection since the inspector is basically looking at all the same things?

Thank you!


texts: How can I attach a draft seal/excluder to a garage door

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I believe my question is "how do I drill a steel plate so I can screw something to it"
As per a few of my other posts, I'm trying to reduce the gap between my garage door and floor.
The garage door and floor are (now) level with each other, and so I had hoped to include a draft excluder to help keep out most of the water and cold air.
I bought this draught seal.
The problem is, I can't screw these screws into the metal garage door (nor did I expect to be able to). I then looked up how, and it shows use metal drill bits, around 2mm, to create guide or pilot holes.
I've done this, and am unable to pierce the metal. I have a MAKITA DHP485STE 18V 5.0AH CORDLESS COMBI DRILL which I believe is more than powerful enough
I'm beginning to think their term for garage door means wooden, where as I have metal.
Is there any special trick to drilling through metal because, I was able to drill through the metal sheet that holds the plastic draft excluder without issue (the one in the link above). It's just the garage door seems to be made of super strong metal!
EDIT
As per comments, I've added a picture and have a dreadful feeling I can see the issue... That I'm not just going through that front plate (which is about 3mm thick)... I hope you can see the 2 places where I've tried to drill myself. I can get 0.5 - 1mm deep and then the drill bit seems to do nothing else


texts: Turn on and off well, water pressure goes up drastically

texts: I was watering the garden and the water pressure went down to maybe 2 psi on the gauge  I tried turning off the well pump 220 breaker for ten seconds and back on.  I heard a pffft when it came on and the water pressure went up in a secind to a pretty good 44psi.  I think it was a little higher than that when I repressurized the tank a couple months ago.  I might need to try that again.  Any idea why cycling the power to the pump had such a drastic effect?


texts: How do I hook up the wires for my double oven installation?

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I am installing a double oven. The wires from the oven are red, black, white and a ground. The wires in the junction box are two black and a ground.
All are 220V/240V.

What wire gets connected to what?


texts:
On a residence located about 20 feet from the ocean in a severe weather climate. I am contemplating putting stainless steel well sealed marine lights on the house for some exterior deck lighting and flood lighting.

If I use a step down transformer for converting 120V to  24V, I’m wondering if there is a special junction box that would allow me to split the box and be able to fit transformers in the box at each light ?

Or would it be better to step down the power for the entire circuit near the panel?

I don’t know if there’s a voltage drop problem but farthest fixture might be 120 feet from the panel.

The lights I’m replacing had aluminum housings and completely degraded from the salt over 15 years. Hoping there is also a gasket-ed stainless box as well out there.

Am I crazy to pursue this ?


texts: Brand of kitchen sink with crown logo and CSA stamp

texts: I'm looking for the brand/manufacturer of this stainless steel double kitchen sink with a crown logo both on the sink and the strainer, as well as a CSA stamp... In Canada as you can guess. Guessing this is a low-cost, contractor available sink, may have been sold via Home Hardware.


texts: Does a fireplace with switch on wall need to have the pilot on constantly

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Our gas fireplace has a switch on the wall as well as a gas control valve that needs an external key.
We had not used the fireplace in 5 years and called a plumber to get it to light.  He put valve inside fireplace to pilot position then pressed red button no pilot came on.  He repeated process multiple times.
Finally lit pilot with butane light with same valve in pilot position.  Pilot is on and switch on wall turns fireplace on and off.  Pilot stays on.
Should Pilot stay on?


texts: Is this grounding configuration correct?

texts:
While doing work in my breaker panels I noticed the following:
300A service enters into a large box on the right where it is split to a 200A and a 100A panel.  Neutral and ground are bonded in the splitter box (d) AND in each of the main panels.  The boxes are joined by conduit (c) and there is also a wire joining the combination neutral/ground bus in each of the two load centers to the splitter box (a).   The splitter box is also connected to the cold water (b) and to a ground rod outside.
From the limited understanding I've developed of how grounding should work, it seems to me I have neutral and ground bonded in multiple locations here.  Is that ok?  This was all done by a licensed electrician.


texts: Can a dishwasher and disposer be on the same 20 ampere circuit?

texts: I am in the process of rewiring kitchen in a 1925 era farmhouse removing knob and tube. Have new 100 amp service and will soon pull 12/2 cu thhn to power .kitchen sink garbage disposer and dishwasher. Am considering placing these two applicances on one/same 20 amp gfci circuit. Would appreciate any thoughts as to propriety of doing so. Do these items need seperate circuits? Is it desireable to have these on own circuit or is that unnecessary. Thank you


texts: "Connect the ground wire from the branch circuit to the ground screw"?

texts: This is what the directions say for my new pendant light. Both the (metal) box and the fixture have ground wires. The diagram didn't show how exactly to connect the wire to the ground screw (located on the mounting bracket). Do I wrap part of the ground wire from the box around the screw and then wire nut it to the fixture ground wire? Or does it mean I should connect the fixture & box ground wires and then pigtail to the screw?? Want to do this safely. Any help here is appreciated.


texts:
I've inherited an old Black & Decker miter saw that works great but is missing it's blade guard.
I've tried finding a replacement part specifically for this model (3091/1) but can't locate the model anywhere. Seems to pivot off of a central nut... though also has two knobs on the front end that seem to have something to do with a guard(?)
Any suggestions on how I go about getting a blade guard that will fit this?  More info in photos attached.


texts: Light switches are not working, all outlets are

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I woke up this morning and realized that none of the light switches in my home are working, however all outlets are still working. I checked the breaker and nothing was tripped, then I went ahead and reset the breaker just to insure that that was not the problem.
The only other information I have to offer is that I changed a three-way switch in my home yesterday however, it worked throughout the rest of the day.


texts: I recently got interested in making pots out of cement. The most practical curing method for me is ponding/submergence. When is concrete ready to pond, how can I tell when it's ready, and what should I do with it in the mean time? And can/should I remove it from the mold before submerging? I'm using a normal, higher strength cement mix you could find at a hardware store if it matters


texts: Is drilling a pilot hole into the plaster wall of an old house hazardous asbestos?

texts: The house was built in the 20's, and I was installing some battery powered smoke alarms today.  I drilled the pilot holes for the plastic screw anchors and the 'A' word jumped into my head after I looked at the powder that came out with my drill bit.  Is drilling into the walls of an old house hazardous due to the possibility of asbestos insulation?  Or, would there likely not be any insulation in the interior walls?


texts: How do I use a floor nailer near the wall?

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I have the floor nailed down in the entire room , except for the last seven courses. The pneumatic floor nailer can't get any closer than that without the mallet hitting the wall. Do I really have to pre-drill and hand-nail the last seven courses?
I'm using a Porter-Cable FCN200 Pneumatic Flooring Cleat Nailer.


texts: Humidity levels in new basement are high

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I'm currently living in a new build in Ottawa Ontario for which I took possession in February 2020 ( I've been here for about 5 months ). The humidity levels in my basement have gone  gangbusters in the past couple of months. I currently have 2 dehumidifiers running full throttle 24/7 to keep the RH at around 50%.
Without these machines running I've seen the RH climb up to the mid 70s.
I thought I had it under control, until I saw water inside the vapour barrier.
The builder told me it was because the cement isn't completely cured yet... Is this true? My understanding was that cement took around 30 days to cure.
Note that the landscaping isn't done yet, so the grading isn't right and we don't have any eavestroughing as of yet.
Should I be concerned about mold? I feel like they are pulling on fast one on me...
I had plans to finish the basement ( Seal the floors, put up drywall etc).
Any advice?
Thanks!


texts: Will my warped(cupped) oak flooring flatten out after it dries?

texts:
I have a refrigerator sitting on a solid oak floor with a plywood underlay/subfloor that had the ice maker line break and the water got under the flooring and it is cupped now about 4 feet square on each side of the wall backing the fridge.

The floor is under the fridge on one side but on the other side of the wall (behind) it is in a hallway and is noticable.  I placed fans both at the floor from above and at the bottom/under the subflooring but did not note any improvement after several days.

Will the cupped floor settle over time as it dries out or will I have to remove and refinish?


texts: In a low water pressure area, why would water from a shower take several seconds to flow after the shower is turned on?

texts: I have an unvended hot water cylinder; due to low water pressure where I live, I have a pump installed which assists the pressure when using my shower. When I first go to turn my shower on in the morning, it usually takes around 10 seconds from the time that the shower is turned on until any water is produced and the pump is kicked into action; however, if I then turn the shower off and back on, water begins to flow immediately. What would be the reason for this?


texts: Can I drain a dehumidifier pump into my dishwasher?

texts:
Probably a really dumb question.

I handwash dishes and use my dishwasher as glorified storage, so I was thinking I could stick the hose coming out of my dehumidifier pump into the dishwasher and just leave the dishwasher door cracked to avoid pinching the tube.

I admittedly don't know how dishwashers work. Would the dishwasher drain the water coming in even though it's never powered on? Or can it only drain water as part of a cleaning cycle?


texts: Will this existing Outlet Box support a 23 lb ceiling fan

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I live in a house that was build in 2015, this outlet currently mounts a light fixture. I want to replace the lights with a ceiling fan but I am not sure if the current outlet box will support the fan. The fan is 23 lbs in weight.

The text printed on the box

Carlon
4" Ceiling Box
20 CU. IN. VOL
328 CU. CM.

I have taken some picture and shared them at link below.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Apxt8MAKVTWKi7k1YVtGORzYttrPfA


texts:
We have quite an old toilet in our house and every time toilet paper is flushed down it completely clogs, it can be a little or a lot of toilet paper. It doesn't do this with anything else, just toilet paper. We've had to result to getting a bin next to the toilet for now. We had a plumber look quickly at it and he said he couldn't understand it but he's more of a kitchen fitter than anything else.

I have rodded the toilet on numerous occasions, well, everytime someone comes to visit and forgets about the 'no roll down the loo' rule.

Any advice would be very grateful.


texts:
I have a 20 year old flat wood entry door (without mouldings or embellishment).  I was going to sand and paint it, but when I sanded, I realized that the wood must have been just a veneer (plywood, perhaps?) since I could pull off pieces, if I'd tried, that would be about 1/4" wide by different lengths.

Is there any way to repair this door, rather than going to the expense of replacing it? The door is perfect on the inside, and I'm sure it's problems on the outside are a result of sun exposure.


texts: New Light Fixture - wiring does not match

texts: We removed a light fixture in the dining room that was installed when we built the house in October 2001.  However; we failed to take a picture of the connections.  The wires from the ceiling are 2 white, 2 black, 1 red, and copper.  The new light fixture has 2 black and a copper.  The light switch is three switches - one to an outdoor outlet, one to an outdoor light, and one to the light over the dining room table which has a dimmer.  Unsure how to connect the new fixture wires to the existing wires.


texts: Kobalt Weed Eater unspools immediately on running

texts:
As soon as I start running my Kobalt KST 120X-06 weed eater the line immediately unspools very quickly (like 5 inches a second). It is like the autofeed is always on. I have made sure I am spooling correctly:

http://pdf.lowes.com/operatingguides/841821017460_oper.pdf

I have also tried spooling it the opposite directly in case I am somehow confusing what clockwise means in this case.

What might be going on here?

More stuff:

Here is a picture of the auto feed mechanism, including spring (on the left side) which is in place properly as far as I can tell.  Even though the area around the spring looks like its full of debris in the picture it is actually just some surface dirtiness, it does not effect the spring at all.

Here is same but showing the mechanism depressed by my finger pushing the button.  The spring gives some resistance.


texts:
I'm installing a wall mount over an existing electrical socket - so I want to remove the socket I've read that just capping off the Hot and Neutral wires is not the best approach and that disconnecting from the power source is best. I don't want to disconnect from the breaker panel as many other sockets that I want live are on the same breaker.
How do I find where to disconnect the hot and neutral wires to the socket I want to remove?


texts:
I have some experience with discrete electronics, but electrics was never in my interest. Currently I started making our home smarter and I hit the wall - there are no HomeKit compatible fan speed controllers.

For lighting I use very good Leviton DH6HD-1BZ dimmers, which according to the manufacturer work with following types of loads:

Incandescent fixtures
LEDs
CFLs
Mark 10

Nothing mentions fans. I started researching and people are warning that using classical dimmers is a bad idea, however nobody seems to have a technical explanation why? Is it really that bad of any idea to use smart dimmer to control fan? What is the difference between the modes selectable on the dimmer?

Now the fans are controlled by 5 speed switches, which somehow has to control the speed of the motor...


texts: Where to connect Blue C Wire at old furnace?

texts: I have looked at other responses and each layout is a little different.  Looking to connect a Smart Thermostat and need to know where to connect the Blue wire at the Furnace.  See the attached picture.  Lots of possibilities.  Thanks for the help and guidance.


texts: How to bring up cable for an electrical outlet from floor to wall without access to the inside of the wall?

texts:
I would like to bring up 12/2 cable to put a 110 20A electrical outlet on the wall.  The house is old and there is not enough space behind the drywall to put a box (it is an outside wall and there are not any outlets in it).  In addition, I tried elsewhere on this wall to drill a hole down to the floor below but was unable to get it.  So, I'd like to bring up a cable from the floor in front of the wall and install a surface mount box with an outlet.  How should I go about this?  BX cable? Conduit between floor and box?

The outlet will be for a portable air conditioning unit in the summer and space heater in the winter, thus the sole outlet on the circuit.

Red marking is where I'd like to bring up the cable and install the outlet.


texts: Can I run conduit through a retaining wall?

texts:
I have a terraced backyard with 3 retaining walls, each about 4' high.  One is poured concrete, the other two are wood (PT 3x12).   I am looking to add some outlets to the backyard from an existing receptacle on the back of the house.  This will be one circuit with 3 individual thwn-2 12 AWG wires: hot, neutral, ground.
I'd like to bury 3/4" pvc conduit, pop out in front of the retaining wall and then go into the next terrace by going through the wall instead of over the top and back down.  The hole I drill in the wall would be at least 1".  I'm choosing 3/4" conduit in case I ever want to add a 2nd circuit, or cat-6 ethernet cable, in the future.
Any issues with my approach?
Mild calif winters here, no snow or frost concerns.


texts: I am remodeling and I have to replace kitchen cabinets and sink, I was thinking if I had a set up like I do for my washing machine,-in wall faucets and drain it would make it easy to disconnect and move sink out to replace the bad floor then put it back until the new cabinets come in.   do they make something like this, is it a good idea?


texts:
I have 3 wires coming out from the wall at my new house (red, white, blue). It is a water boiler heat only system. The tstat was already removed unfortunately.

I thought the blue wire was the C wire, so I hooked it up to a nest but it didn't work. It said there was no power.

I checked the voltage as following:

red and white: 24V
red and blue: 0V
white and blue: 24V

I put R and W together and the heat is on.

So I think the blue wire is not a C wire? because it looks like it is hot. So what is this blue wire for? or I think the red and white are somehow swapped... so white is hot and red is neutral? At the relays, does it matter which wire goes to the terminals? It is a heat only boiler system, no cooling.

These are the wires from the relays. Zone 3 is the zone. I don't even see any blue wire.


texts: What can I do if drain alignment doesn't allow enough space for p-trap?

texts:
I'm remodeling my bathroom. The sink drainage come up from the floor. The alignment between that and the drain coming from the sink doesn't have enough space for a p-trap to be installed so it just falls into place and connects the two (prior to remodel there was no p-trap).

I was thinking having a 45 degree pipe come out of the sink, forward then down, then attach the p-trap, and that would allow enough space for overflow to go back and down to floor drain pipe. My crude image of what I mean, circled in red.

Would this allow for proper drainage?


texts: Can we seal the bedroom door gap, or will it affect the central air conditioning airflow?

texts:
I am trying to add some sound proofing to my baby's room. In Canada, almost all interior doors have a gap at the bottom. I believe this is for the airflow of the central furnace/air conditioner. Since the baby room only has a vent out, is there any effect on the central air airflow when I seal the gap at bottom of the door?
Just thinking if I seal it, that will mean the room will have a hard time getting air out when the furnace/air conditioner is running.


texts: Understanding results of an energy audit

texts:
We had an energy audit done a couple of years ago on our 20 year old home.  Basically, they hooked up a blower to the front door, and tested the amount of air leakage.

The written report suggested a number of improvements, most of which we did:  new windows, doors, sealing attic hatches, etc.  The total spent was around $15k.

Because there's a local government plan to cover some of the expenses, we had a follow up audit done.

The overall score from the follow up was exactly the same.  This really baffles me, because I know in a couple of places (pre-repair) I could feel a breeze coming in, and the candle test showed it.

Will I actually get any savings from my new, expensive, energy-star compliant doors & windows?


texts: How can I remove ice damming on my roof?

texts:
I just noticed that I have a pretty large ice dam forming on my roof (will post pictures later).

I am just wondering, is there anything I can do to remove the ice? It has completely filled the eavestrough on one section of the house.

I have not seen any noticeable warm spots on the roof (i.e. melting regions). We have been having warm, cold, warm, cold weather, followed by snow; which I am sure doesn't help anything.

I understand that to prevent it from happening in the future, would be to better insulate the attic (I also have wooden soffits, which likely doesn't help anything). Next year, I will invest in a roof snow shovel. I think the main culprit has been the stupid weather (melt, freeze, melt, freeze).

Should I just let the ice dam resolve, or should I do something to remove the ice?


texts: 2006 Kohler bathroom faucet how to remove, has toggle "nut" different than one here already

texts: This is a 2006 Kohler bath faucet and I want to replace it. There's a post here with one similar but not the same-the other one has a way to take off from the top, mine does not, see pics. Maybe just use pliers and twist the nut even though the plastic is there?


texts:
I have an interesting problem. I been in the process of remodelling my living room and dining room - paint, lights, floor, essentially the works. And in doing so I discovered one of my floor joists is raised in comparison to the rest. I know that it is a small enough of a rise that I can plane down the joist (about 3/8" of an inch, the joist runs the length of the room which is near enough to 27', with no holes drilled through the 10" joist within a few feet of the peak), so bringing it true shouldn't be an issue.

The problem is I don't have a hand planer or belt sander. From what I have read online some guys have attempted to do this with a 1/4 sheet palm sander (which I have already). Is this actually an option or should I swallow the bill for a new tool? (Which I really wouldn't mind --- it's just I am married to an accountant and now "we have cost over runs").

Thoughts? Advice? Hopes and prayers?

Thanks!


texts: How can I prevent water from being fed to my foundation through the gas-line ditch?

texts:
I recently had a gas line installed, and now there is water leaking into my basement about six feet below grade. It is not surprising that the 130-year-old fieldstone foundation is porous, but until now the water has been led away from the house, so the basement has been dry. Here is a picture, showing the path of the gas line in yellow:

My theory is that the water is being led from the grassy area along the path of the gas line, where the dirt is less compact and therefore more permeable than before.

What can I do about it? Would running a drainage pipe to the end of the house help? If so, should start where the gas line ends, or does it need to be under the gas line the entire way?


texts: Marble flooring at my house oscillates when we walk over it.How to rectify or resolve this issue?

texts: The marble flooring at my house is popping i.e  when people walk over it, the marble flooring oscillates up & down..and it might come out in the next few days if left unattended..kindly provide me a solution as to how to resolve it?.since only 3-4 tiles are having the trouble.


texts: I have a 100KW diesel generator with a 400amp ATS (Cummins) feeding a 400 amp service. It exercies once a week with load transfer it starts and transfers like it should however when it is time to flop back over to regular electric it does not flip back to reg power (actually everything goes dark in the house)and the generator does not stop running. I end up having to turn the generator off manually and leave it on manual and I have to manually flop over the transfer (several times before it will flop) switch back to regular electric where do I start? This issue has now happened twice over the past 6 months last time we just operated everything a few times and all seemed normal worked fine till today


texts: Are misplaced, unused anchor bolts a problem?

texts:
In the garage wall at the front porch there are two anchor bolts not installed in the wall. You can actually see the anchor bolts.

The whole wall is 3 degrees off from concrete slab, I guess it was measured incorrectly. 1/4 of the wall is barely standing on the concrete.

This is brand new house we built just finished inspection yesterday.
How do we know the builder will fix it right way? Will this be a serious issue?


texts: Do floating floorboards still shift after a decade?

texts:
I understand that when you install floating floorboards, you need to be careful around the edge, with skirting boards, etc, to allow for the floorboards to expand, shrink and shift, or else they might buckle.

My floorboards have been in place for 10-14 years. Can I expect that they have now settled, and I do not need to take such precautions, or do they continue to shift throughout their lifetime?


texts: Should I use a halogen light transformer with a higher wattage rating?

texts:
I have a light fixture with 9 G4 20W halogen 12V light bulbs. It has Jindel 105W 120V to 12V transformer, which died. Please explain how 105W transformer can support 9 20W light bulbs? Should it be 180W (9*20W=180W) transformer? I couldn't find similar transformer with 180W, but I found 150W. Will it work in my fixture? Again, why OEM installed 105W transformer?
Thank you in advance for the response!


texts: What should I watch out for when installing lighting in my flat?

texts:
I've decided to add a layer at the ceiling and rig a bunch of spotlights there. The distance will be about 60 cm between them.

Is there anything special to consider that a noob like me might miss?

I'm thinking light color, max brightness, direction, dimmers etc. Technical stuff, nothing design'ish.

(Being a noob, I'm not doing it myself. I hired an electrician, of course. But his responsibility is limited to, sort of, making usre I won't burn the house to the ground, nothing more.)

One specific "dream" I have is installing motion detector (indoors) so when I enter the hall (getting back home or preparing to head out), the light will automagically come up and then, when I've left, turn off by itself. Is that a stupid idea? I'm worried that it's not possible to adjust the detection area so that it only snatches the outer part of the hall and not the rest of connected area (which is my kitchen).


texts: How can I create a pocket door locking mechanism?

texts: Anyone know how I can make a pocket door lock? My brain is designing a few but can't figure our the best materials. I used to have a chain slide lock but i had to break into my room.


texts: I have a pool with an overhanging cement edge that crumbled away. I have one contractor that said we should replace it and another that said we should just patch it. Here are some pictures of it. Which option should I take?


texts: 100 amp transfer switch for 125 amp home

texts:
A local electrical shop tried to sell me a GE 100 amp transfer switch. My main electrical panel breaker is 125 amps.
Would this be ok?


texts: Can I ground junction box directly to panel?

texts:
I have a metal junction box but I'm currently using as a pass-thru for the wires running through it. It's the incoming box from outdoor underground conduit burial. My ground wire is just barely long enough so I'm afraid to splice it and reconnect it using a wire nut so the box can be grounded. Is there a way to splice it securely so I don't have to worry about the splice coming loose? If not, can I just run a 4th wire from the jbox to the panel and consider it grounded safely?

I do have the hot wire in the box with a wirenut right now because it was a couple inches short so I had to cut it and extend it.


texts: Identify screw and dowel on this cabinet door

texts: What are these? Screw has two positions: fixed and loose. I can only switch between them but I cannot unscrew.


texts: Are 15A receptacles safe on 20A circuits?

texts: I recently got a circuit added to my spare room to grow some tomatos, the lighting I am going to be using is 8amp on each plug, I noticed the electrician didnt install a 20A rated receptacle with the side blade but installed a 15amp instead. I am wondering if this is safe, it is the only receptacle on the line. Pretty simple fix to swap it out if need be


texts:
One of the toilet tanks in my house is leaking water slowly into the toilet bowl. A pic of the inside of the tank is attached. I believe a gasket is the culprit (the pink gasket pointed to by the red arrow in the pic), but I can't figure out how to remove all the black parts above that gasket to get to and replace the gasket. I tried pulling on and twisting the small part above the white ring to release the cylindrical part (which slides up and down) to which the gasket is secured but no success. Can someone please advise? Or, do I have to somehow unscrew the entire assembly (at the joint pointed to by the green arrow)?

Thanks.


texts: How do I deaden the sound of water dripping on metal?

texts:
I live in a two story apartment complex (upstairs neighbors are REAL nice). My bedroom has an AC Box/Swamp Cooler mounted into the wall. Directly above it is a similar unit for my neighbors.

The problem is that when it gets unbearably hot (as it does during summers here) the upper unit eventually starts to drip water directly down onto the top of my unit. This creates an immensely frustrating sound in my room, as the hollow metal box in my wall echoes this consistent dripping noise, keeping me from falling asleep or enjoying the quiet in general.

I have asked the landlords if they can either repair the upstairs unit or put a barrier between the water and my unit, but their response was "Meh, swamp coolers drip, get over it."

I feel like i'm going to have to fix this problem myself and am wondering what I can do to stop the dripping.


texts: Can I paint (trim work) semi-gloss right over polyurethane without stripping it first? Would it require primer?


texts: What is the principle behind "circuit total limitation" (CTL) for electrical panels?

texts: Contemporary electrical panels/loadcenters limit the number of tandem circuit breakers that can be used. Is this because areas of the underlying panel bus bars can overheat despite all of the individual breakers (including the main) operating below their rated trip current? Or is it because of the risk of a neutral slot being used by more than one circuit? Both? Something else?


texts: Floor tile layout suggestion and backer board or not?

texts:
I have a small utility closet that is 28" wide and 78" long. I have never tiled before, so I wanted to try my hand at a hidden away place. I have two questions:

There is some glue from the carpet padding that could be scraped up, but do I need to put a backer board down or can I tile directly onto the cement. Most of that is paint on the floor.
We are putting down 6x24" tiles. What is a good layout of the tiles? I came up with this, but any suggestions?

Thanks for the tips!


texts: Single pot light in room continually dimming / flickering, before dying after a few days

texts:
I've just moved into a new apartment and am having trouble with a specific pot light in the main area.

There are 4 lights on the switch (all recessed), and they are all working fine except the one. When I moved in, the bulb (as well as a few others) were dead. I let the landlord know, and she brought over some new bulbs. I replaced the lights.

The problem one felt different than the others when replacing; with the others, getting the old one out and putting the new one in were a bit of a struggle. Wiggling the bulb back and forth out of the plug, almost feeling stuck. I was worried to pull to hard, lest I shatter the bulb. With the problem one however, it came out very easily, and the new one fit very easily as well. It almost didn't feel like it would stay in place if I let it go (though it did).

When I turned the lights on, the problem one had an issue with flicker-dimming. It would periodically go into fits of flickering, but not completely off, just dimmer. A day or 2 later, it was out again.

I opened up the fixture to check on it, and after moving it a bit, it came back on. But it had to stay in that exact position - anything else and it would turn off. It continued to do the periodic flicker-dimming.

Again, a few days later, and it was out. This time, no amount of moving it around would make it come back on. I don't want to go out and buy more bulbs to test it, just in case that isnt the issue.

The bulb in question is an MR16 50 Watt Halogen, the same as the rest. The fixture (and all others) claim to be rated for "42 Watts Max", though I've been unable to find MR16 bulbs less than 50W, and the rest of the lights seem to be doing fine.

Here's one of them that I replaced (though not the specific one in question):

Here's a photo of the fixture itself:

"50W" is mentioned on it a few times ("NW2000 50W","ISMR2000M/T 50W"), but I'm not sure what either of those mean.

Any suggestions?


texts: How to connect switch to electric box containing 3 grey (twin and earth) cables?

texts:
The circuit breaker belonging to kitchen tripped today and I narrowed the problem down to faulty switch controlling my fridge.
I immediately removed the switch but I forgot to take picture of previous connection.
Please can someone help me with connecting new switch?


texts: Parallel seam between drywall and plastered brick

texts:
Most of the interior walling in my house that is under construction is using single skin brick with plaster.
In a few locations we require "cavity" doors and space has been left in the brickwork for the cavity, the intention is that the cavity will constructed using drywall (or potentially wedi board) quite possibly using a pc henderson "pocket door" kit for the framing.
One of the people I've come out to quote on the dooring has expressed concern about the join between the "plaster board" and the plastered brickwork - in his opinion it is likely a crack will keep forming here.
I was wondering firstly how valid a concern this really is, if done properly is it likely a crack will still form?
And secondly I was wondering what the best practice here would be.
The cavity system comes in different widths... Would it be better to try match the "finished wall thickness" of the cavity + plasterboard to the "finished wall thickness" of the brickwork + plaster, and then just do a thin skim to join them.
Or would it be better to rather have the cavity + plasterboard be approximately the same thickness as the brick and then apply a thick plaster over both to join them?
Any other tips to prevent hassles?
I've done a little explanation drawing (brick part not really to scale or anything like that, just to give an idea.

Picture of one of the brick walls with space for door cavity (roughly half of this will become a door opening) the other half will be framed for door to slide into.

(Sorry not the best picture, I'll try get a better one when next on site.


texts: Tried to move my doorbell over a few feet but now it constantly rings like a school fire alarm

texts:
I bought one of those older looking doorbell replicas. It's brand new but it's designed to look like the older models. It has the long tubes that hang about 3ft from the box. In order to make this work I relocated the doorbell on the wall completely by about 2.5ft. I couldn't keep it where it originally was located since it is over a door (due to the long tubes being in the way).
I bought doorbell wire from H.D. and also used romex to run behind the wall to extend to my new location. I hooked the red to red and the white to white and I hooked up the Romex correctly (black-black and white to white and bare copper to bare copper). I then hooked up the red doorbell to the transformer and did the same with the white. The red and white wires that come from the buzzer connect to the transformer (in my case, I'm using front and trans but not using the rear since I have no back doorbell).
I had the circuit off at the panel. After I finished my connections I turned the power back on and the bells constantly rang. It sounds like a fire alarm in a high school. So I turned off the power, inspected the wiring to make sure there was no crossing of the red and white and couldn't see anything. I then tried switching the red and white from the front and trans on the transformer (basically just reversed them thinking this might have been the issue) and still got the same constant ringing. I then tried to reconnect my old doorbell to see if my new doorbell was defective. After doing that I heard the old doorbell ring just once. So I thought I was right. But then when I walked into the room where the doorbell is located I could hear this loud buzzing sound. I then tried pressing the doorbell button at the front door and it wouldn't work. But the buzzing sound was constant.
I can't see or comprehend what I did wrong. All I basically did was extend the Romex and doorbell (red and white) wiring by about three feet behind the wall. Does anyone have any idea what I did wrong? I am so perplexed by this. I'm guessing it must have to do with the red and white wiring. Because, if I had done something wrong with the Romex wouldn't it have blown the circuit and turned itself to the "OFF" position?


texts: After caulking the four joints that make up a rim joint, can I put the rigid 2" XPS board close to the room (the beginning of the cavity), or does it have to be put right up against the joist.  Because the house has had a past history of termite infestation (no termites seen for years after treatment) I don't want to permanently install the foam board so I can occasionally recheck for termites.  I think, at least for me, once you have termites, you are always going to be concerned that they could come back.


texts:
I'm working on an 8ft x 12ft climbing wall. I have 3/4 inch ACX plywood attached to a frame. Since the frame isn't perfectly square, the plywood overlaps on the edges (up to about 1cm) so I need to shave it down. What's the best tool for the job?

I was thinking of using a block plane, but I've heard it can tear the edges of the plywood. Would a belt sander be better?


texts: What is the proper wire type/size and conduit size for an a/c circuit?

texts: I plan to run a dedicated circuit on the outside of a house.  It would be in conduit.  The unit draws 11 amps.  The run is about 30 feet.  I want to be sure the conduit, wire size and wire type are correct.


texts: Brick Wall separated from home and collapsed

texts: My home's brick wall has fallen down on 2 sides. I'm hoping to clear away the remaining bricks and install insulation and siding. I'm not sure how high of a base of bricks I should leave at the bottom. (so siding doesn't go down to the dirt). I'm also dealing with the outside electrical meter, not sure how I should handle that. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


texts: Help identifying unusual type of toilet flush button

texts:
My toilet has an unusual type of button to flush it, which is shown in these pictures:

The top part which you actually push and the base both unscrew from the shaft in the middle (which is connected directly to the internal flushing mechanism), and I would like to replace both of them as they were originally a gold/brass colour and have faded significantly over the years. However, all of the retailers I've looked at seem to only sell two types of flusher: a) the button type which sits on top of the middle of the tank cover, or b) the handle type which sits on the front and to the side of the tank cover. I am further frustrated by being unable to search for my type of flusher specifically as I do not know its name.

Do you know what type of toilet flusher this is?

If this is beyond unusual and is, in fact, unique, then do you know where I could salvage parts to replace the top and base of this flusher?


texts: How can I complete these repairs to my sprinkler system?

texts:
I have two (hopefully small) repairs that I need to do for my system. Luckily most of it is in a control box, so it is easy to get at. Here's the setup:

At the top was a valve that was broken, and at the bottom was (what the guy Lowe's said was) a backflow preventer:

Last relevant picture, is just outside of the control box on the left side:

It's still a little covered, but you can see that there is a T joint close to the box.

Replacing the valve

The valve that was in place had male connectors, but the store only had valves with female connectors. I bought one of those valves and two adapters, but there isn't quite enough room - the valve plus the two adapters is about 2cm too wide to fit. These are 1" pipes. The two parts to connect to are swivel connectors somewhat like this.

What are my options here? I thought of three possibilities, and would like to know which one would work best as a long-term fix and if there is a better option that I haven't considered.

Cut off about 1 cm from each of the two adapters until the valve+adapters fits snuggly in there. This should leave a little more than 1 cm exposed on each side. I'm concerned that this wouldn't leave enough to screw onto to get a good seal. I also don't trust my ability to cut the adapters cleanly enough to have it be absolutely flat against the other parts of the pipe.
Cut off one of the swivel connectors and put a new one on. I could cut off enough pipe to get a fit as snug as I need and also get slightly longer adapters to make sure that the fit isn't too loose.
Cut out a section of pipe and get a connector to rejoin the two new ends, effectively shortening the pipe.

General question - how tight does the fit need to be? Will it leak if there is even a small gap between the adapter and the pipe inside of the swivel connector?

Replacing the backflow preventer

As you can see in the pictures, there was an adapter at the end of the pipe coming into the box, but it was cracked and the threaded part came off with the backflow preventer (which was also cracked, hence why I needed to replace it). After I cut off that broken adapter there will still be 1" of pipe coming out of the T joint. There will be 6" of space from there to the threading of the valve that's still in there. Here I'm working with 3/4" pipe. I already have a new backflow preventer with female connectors on both ends, and it's not quite 5" long.

How do I replace this? There's not enough room in there for an extendable repair piece. I figure that I should put the new backflow preventer in first, and that will leave about 1.5-2" of space and then 1" of pipe to connect to. What parts should I get and how to I get them all in there?


texts: Bent Door Hinge & Partially Broken Frame

texts:
This door was slammed so hard that it flew past the peice of wood that is nailed to the frame and now the hinges are severely bent. The door doesn’t close completely. In fact it now opens in the wrong direction.

I can’t get a screwdriver between the door and the hinges to remove the door  because of how bent the hinges are and the hinges themselves are weird. Neither end has a cap/head and there are little washers in between each section.

This door leads to a bedroom and the more we squeeze in and out of it the hinges bend more and more. I really need a way to fix this. Please help.


texts: How can i add an outlet to an existing combination light switch?

texts: I have an old existing double light switch fixture that id like to add an outlet to. Can i do this? Ive been looking online and haven't seen much for info. Here are the pics of the current light switch[


texts: correct fastener for drywall over plywood

texts:
I'm trying to install mirror brackets into my wall for a lightweight frameless wall mirror (58" x 16").

My attempt at using a hollow wall anchor (Hillman 1/8" DXS drive wall anchor) didn't work very well.
The drywall appears to be 3/8" thick, and directly behind it is some plywood that appears to be fairly thin too.
The anchor just chewed up the drywall leaving a 3/4" diameter hole.

What's the correct fastener to use here?


texts: What are my dimmer options in this switch configuration?

texts:
I have a setup in my basement where there is a 4-way switch setup, but none of it is run using 3-wire.  I've seen the term "California 3-way", so that might apply.
There are 3 switches involved:

At the head of the stairs there is a 3-way switch.  That switch has a two-wire running to its traveler terminals, and the common terminal is feeding the stairs light.

In the basement (basically at the bottom of the stairs) there is a 2nd switch, and it is a 4-way.  That switch has two 2-wires running to and from it.  One goes to switch #3, and the other runs back up to the switch #1.

At the opposite end of the basement is the 3rd switch, and it is another 3-way.  This switch provides the power and has one of the 2-wires that run to switch #2.

Each of these switches controls a light on the stairs, and the basement lights (there are two).
There is an additional switch about halfway across the basement that controls the far end light alone.  I would like to put the dimmer here.
I would like to replace the current basement lights with can lights, and in process introduce a dimmer.  I would love to divide the basement in half and do two dimmers, but since there's just one power loop, I assume this is either not possible or at least would require a ton of re-working the feed.
So I'm starting with step #1...can I introduce the dimmer anywhere on the loop and expect it to work right?  Or does it have to occupy a certain place in the power loop?


texts:
what is the name of this nut, I need to find a way to loosen it .

From the top


texts:
I was wondering if i could have one outlet control all counter outlets? I need to replace some and trying to do this cheaper.

I'm buying a property and trying to get it up to code.


texts: Bolt hole reinforcement? For barrel bolts

texts:
I would like to drill a hole in the wall for a barrel bolt, similar to the photo below:

http://www.aoml.noaa.gov/hrd/shutters/ply4.jpg

However, instead of having a bare hole in the wall, is there a piece of hardware I can buy to fit a metal reinforcement into the hole? The barrel bolt would slide into this metal reinforcement.

I am asking because I don't know if such things exist.

Thanks.


texts:
in wall sconces to go above my bed and I want to get some smart bulbs to connect to my Alexa but I want them to have a filament bulb. I found these Philips HUE bulbs that I like: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SNGBWG4/ref=crt_ewc_title_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

My light fitting says that they need a 5W LED or MAX 42W Halogen bulb, but the Philips hue bulbs are a 7W LED but their Incandescent Equivalent is 40 watts. Can I use these bulbs? or do I need to find new bulbs?


texts: Decking - Shorter Sister Joists for Abutted Boards?

texts:
I have an existing deck that I am refurbishing.  The deck is only 18" off the ground.  The existing joists are in good shape.  I would like to use shorter deck boards with abutted ends due to the length of the deck boards.  The existing joists are long as well with supports running underneath them.

Instead of adding a full length sister joist I am wondering if two half sister joists with blocking in between is a viable alternative?  The main reasons are that the longer sister joist would be a custom order at the lumber yard and more difficult to transport.

Below is a simplified drawing.  I'm actually considering adding two pair of the half sister joists and blocking so the deck boards can be in a staggered pattern.  That way there wouldn't be a seam down the middle.


texts:
I've bought an old house, and I've decided to fix a rocking toilet.  I found two flange repair kits stacked on top of the original broken toilet flange.  When sawing the flange to remove it, I found the entire pipe moves inside the floor.

Well as I was sawing the flange the riser pipe came out of the 90 degree joint.  I've also noticed standing water in the pipe, so I'm guessing the end I'm looking at is sitting lower than the tee.

I intend to buy a straight section of pipe and a new flange, but am I correct in assuming that having a toilet flange hold up a section of pipe is asking for disaster?  I'm thinking I will have to open up the ceiling below and add a hanger.  Or am I overthinking this problem?


texts: How can I fix this gap between bookcases I made?

texts:
I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)

Any suggestions on how I can make this look better? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!


texts: My kitchen has no real walls. Is this going to be a problem?

texts:
I recently redid my kitchen, which included removing the back splash and putting in new tile, but when I went to remove the old tile, I found that the tile is only attached to drywall. Knowing this was weird, I cut a small hole in the drywall and on the other side was only insulation which led directly to the plastic siding on the outside of my kitchen wall!? I could push the insulation and my brother could see the plastic siding move on the outside.

I know that my neighborhood was build by a cheap contractor, but no plywood or anything? I pulled out all the sheet rock on the wall below the hanging cabinets (above the counter) and found nothing but the occasional stud, which weren't even properly spaced, (they were too far apart.) The summary is this, the only thing keeping the outside for getting in, is plastic siding, insulation, and drywall with tile on it. And the plastic siding isn't water proof.

What do I do? I have owned this house going on four years and I haven't noticed any problems, and the heating bill isn't outrageous. Am I okay or disillusioned. Do I have walls put in before a major incident occurs or do  I do nothing?

Edit My concern is with what I need to do, if I need to do anything. Do I put in walls myself because I have been lucky thus far because the water hasn't made it past the siding, or is this system going to hold. I relaize the obvious nature of the question, but has anyone encountered a similar problem, and if so what was the outcome of either side?


texts: Should the cold water supply be constantly open for hot water heating system?

texts: I just flushed out my baseboard heating system and refilled it with new water. I am wondering, should the cold water supply to the system stay open or should it be a closed loop until flushed again at another date?


texts: China bristle paintbrush stiff from oil based paint and varnish

texts:
I have used high quality china bristle paintbursh for various projects over the years.  It was used for some exterior oil based paint, but mainly it has been used to varnish various hardwoods after they were stained (stain not applied with the brush).  After every use, I clean it off with thinners, and spin it dry using a paintbrush spinner.

Recently I have noticed that the bristlse are getting stiffer and stiffer, from the base of the brushes up toward the end.  I's say that the bottom half closest to the handle is completely stiff and the bristles wont move.

I tried soaking it in thinners for an extended period of time, but that did not break it down and free them up.  Is there a good way to fix this brush, or has it just reached the end of it life?  How do I go about preventing this, was it do to inadequate cleaning after use?


texts:
I'm staining a new shop (using Sikkens Cetol SRD) that's sided in T1-11 with cedar bats.

On the first day my partner got a little carried away and stained all of the walls from ground level up to about six feet.

Yesterday I tried staining up to (and slightly over) the previously stained portion and ended up with some pretty noticeable lap marks.

I'm hoping I can spread them out a bit with paint thinner or mineral spirits. Any advice in that area is also appreciated.

But my question is is there a good way to avoid new lap marks on the rest of the siding now that I no longer have a wet edge to work from? Would it make sense to brush some paint thinner or mineral spirits on the previously stained area before continuing the stain to the end of each section?


texts: Can I connect only two wires to GFCI receptacle?

texts:
My distribution panel's neutral bar is grounded. So I have only two wires coming out of the panel to the GFCI receptacle. The inspector tested the receptacle and said it's not GFCI.

I wonder if it's because I left the GFCI's ground entrance empty? If that's the reason, can I just connect it to the neutral, which is grounded already?

And, does the code require GFCI has to connect with 3 wires? 2 Wire is not OK?

Thanks!!!
-Henry


texts: Romex into Carlon 5070 phenolic resin boxes. Knockouts?

texts: For various reasons I'd like to use the Carlon 5070 phenolic resin boxes for my switches, with romex. The knockouts look weird: rectangle holes, two on each of the four edges in back. How do they work? Is it code to use those with no clamps? I'm in Hawaii.


texts: Any issues with insulating exterior 2x4 walls with rock wool, then cover with XPS and drywall?

texts:
I am finishing the above-ground basement in my 1950's house, which has 2x4 framing, 16" o.c. I want to insulate as much as possible without breaking the bank (i.e. sprayfoam is out of the question). My current plan is to insulate with rockwool comfortbatt between the studs which should give me an r-value of ~14. I can't stuff any more insulation between the studs, so I'm wondering if there's any problem with me putting 2" rigid foam board (XPS) insulation over top of the studs on the interior side of the wall to get a higher r-value. I'd then drywall directly over top of the XPS foam board. Wondering if this is a recipe for disaster?
For what it's worth, I live in the pacific northwest where temperatures are very moderate in the winter.


texts: Do I need to ground a service disconnect

texts: I installed a double-pole, double-throw 100A service rated disconnect off of a 100A breaker just after the meter to my home. It uses a non-switched neutral bus. I also installed a 50A power inlet on the bottom of the disconnect to which I will connect a generator cord. I have read conflicting statements in other forums as to the sharing of the neutral, some stating it is ok because it is a low voltage single phase supply. I'm looking for answers here about sharing the neutral and also if I should ground the disconnect or bond it to the neutral or both. I have a three cable feed with the neutral bonded to the ground within the main distribution panel inside my home. Does it matter at which point the neutral bond is made - first disconnect or main panel?


texts: Is 1/2" OSB over old hardwood flooring a good base for 1/2" engineered solid bamboo?

texts:
I have a house built in the 40's the hardwood is disgusting. We like a more contemporary/modern look. So we bought a 5 1/4" wide solid bamboo stranded. I don't want to pull up all of the old flooring as it is directly sitting on the floor joice. However I don't have enough height in under the new front door that we already installed to go over the old floor with 3/4" plywood/osb and then la the new flook on top. (All of the other doors on the first floor i could cut except for the new front door. So trimming all of the doors & jams to allow 3/4" plywood/osb Isn't an option)
Would it be acceptable to lay 1/2" osb/plywood over the 3/4" hardwood attached directly to the floor joyst as a sub floor? And if so how do I get the vents/duct work to extend up to the new flooring?


texts:
I'm having trouble thinking of how else to describe the sound that our pellet stove is making.  It is a piercingly high pitched sound that appears to come from the blower.

Here's a video with plenty of awful audio (in the video I'm poking around the back of the stove, not around the blower on the far side).

Here's some more hints concerning this sound:

The sound started this afternoon when we restarted the stove after it had burned out.
This has happened once before and continued for a couple days.  It went away after I cleaned and vacuumed the stove out.  Sadly, that doesn't seem to have fixed the problem this time.  It was not clear why the sound went away last time - I never had any kind of 'aha' moment - the sound just went away.
For the first 30-90 seconds of running, the stove is quiet and doesn't make this sound.
Turning the stove on and off has no effect.
It really does seem like the sound is emitting from the blower/fan.


texts: Safety concerns and precautions in setting up a workshop/studio in the utility room

texts:
I am considering setting up a workspace/studio in my utility room in the basement, which has a hot water tank and two furnaces. Here are the warnings on those units.

Hot water tank:

Furnaces:

I wonder if this is a good idea in general to set up a workspace in the utility room. Is it a risky move? Any advice, safety concerns or precautions should be considered or put in place? For example, I am thinking about adding a carbon monoxide detector in the utility room to give an earlier warning in case of CO leak.

Edit:
I am planning to use it for, say, art projects, building model gundam figures etc, and/or building robotic projects. I am also open to suggestion of what this room should be used for if those projects put it in higher risk. I just want to better use the space if possible.


texts: How to determine phase and neutral on a wall outlet?

texts:
I live in EU and an outlet at a home has two holes (230VAC), no common ground.

I want to determine what hole is phase and neutral. Is it possible to do that by using a multimeter?

When I measure the AC voltage with the multimeter, it does not show the polarity, I used test stick screwdriver, but the led is turned on both holes. Do I need to use a different measuring device to determine it?


texts:
I am considering installing LED tape lights for under/above cabinets in my kitchen.  For under cabinet lighting, placement is easy and obvious.

For above cabinet lights, I wonder what to do.  The cabinets (not my kitchen, but the cabinet placement is similar)... http://st.houzz.com/simgs/c7a1f969008dcfa3_4-1019/traditional-kitchen-lighting-and-cabinet-lighting.jpg

Viewing from the top, would I just run a strip of lights along the front panel on top of the cabinets, or would I follow the entire perimeter (as in the side, the front, and the other side, etc)?


texts: Why am I getting a reading of 119.7 volts neutral to ground?

texts:
el. contractor has left (residential house) - checking the branch outlets:
Hot to neutral: 118.8V // Hot to Ground: 0V // Neutral to Ground: 119.2V??
How come? should I be getting such voltage perhaps on Hot to Ground and Neutral to Ground some fractions, perhaps 2V or less?? Briefly looking into the breaker panel box - blacks wire (hot) to breaker - white (neutral) to side conn.- green (ground), above white wire connectors to a similar connector?
Did they switch somehow hot for neutral? Maybe I mistakenly believe that the right hand opening in in the outlet is neutral? (although black wire goes there?


texts: Can I vent a bathroom through the soffit if I use a product designed for it?

texts:
I am looking for some clarification. I have been reading about installing an exhaust fan in a bathroom, and I have been reading that you should always vent to the outside, but I continue to read that you should never vent through the soffit.
I am not really sure what this means. Do they mean that you should not put the vent up to the soffit and hopes that it will go out, or do they mean that you should not even use a Soffit Vent designed for this.
I keep seeming devices like these Bathroom soffit vents and these which appear to be vents that get installed into the soffit, and then allow you to vent directly to the outside.

These devices seem like they would work, are these devices acceptable?


texts: Fire door modification beyond trim allowance

texts:
So I bought some fire doors.
"The doors comprise cellulosic (flaxboard) cored, timber framed leaves". The Certifire certificate of approval is here: https://www.jeld-wen.co.uk/getmedia/0b0aa417-28ea-42ba-9513-489469a53773/CF160-Certifire-certificate-FD30-Timber-Door-Assemblies-44mm-FD30-Moulded-Doors.pdf.aspx
These are standard sized doors that have a maximum trim allowance of 4mm on each side and 6mm on the bottom.
The problem I have is that my house was built in the late 1800s and there is not a standard sized door opening in the house. There's not a huge amount in it, but if I were to trim the doors, doing so would exceed the trim allowance and presumably invalidate the Certifire certificate.
My thinking when buying the doors was that I would take off the door linings then adjust the openings before fitting new door linings, stops etc.
However, we've had carpenters round to quote us for fitting the doors and to find out if there are less disruptive ways of going about this. The three people that have come around have all quoted us for fitting the doors to the existing openings. One has suggested modifying the doors by sawing off one or more of the timber frame edges, removing some core material before putting back the timber. They believe this would get the job past Building Control, especially since the door will be painted afterward.
However, as I see it, this would mean invalidating the Certifire certificate as far as I can tell, whether Building Control signed it off or not.
So let's say I put my concerns aside and got someone to modify and fit the doors in that way.

Q1. How likely is it that this would be signed off by Building Control?
Q2. If it was signed off, in the event of a fire, would we be covered by our insurance?
Q3. If we rented the house, in the event of a fire, would we be liable?
Q4. If we sold the house, in the event of a fire, would we be liable?


texts: Can I use old bowling alley lanes as counter tops?

texts:
There's a guy in Brooklyn who has a huge stash of old maple bowling alley lanes that he says a person can make counter tops out of. The wood is actually pretty beautiful and some of it has inlaid pin markings.

I'm seriously considering doing it. The catch is that the lanes are wider than a counter is deep, so I'd need to split it. The lanes are made of panels glued and nailed together, which means a circular saw would be cutting through nails. Bowling Alley Guy says I just need the right saw blade.

Before I go much farther down this road ... does this all sound a bit right?

The whole project feels like it is within my wheelhouse. I have a circular saw and a sander. Does anyone have experience with this?


texts: I am an amateur. There is a leak in this pipe valve. Water is dripping. Should I try to fix it myself (how?), or call a plumber?


texts:
For a DIY development I need to crimp a metal border (anykind, the important is that it's conductive) to a plastic plate of ~1 mm wide and few cm length as shown in the picture. I guess it exists for DIY jewelry, but I didn't find a satisfying solution yet.
Thanks for your advices


texts: How can I tell if my new AC is overloading my home electric service?

texts:
I just installed a mini-split A/C system. It is 2 outdoor compressor units and 7 indoor head units. (I did 95% of the install myself, toot toot)

It was working great, but the weather had been unseasonably mild until now. (Install was done May 1, and then thru June 30, 2018, in Baltimore, MD, we had nothing but cool temps and rain)

Recently, i.e. last two days, we've been hit with a heat wave.

Also, recently, I've had three "brownout" events where the lights flickered, and power cut out in the house long enough to disrupt computers, tvs, etc. The first of these events was pretty coincidental with the start of the heat wave.

The circuit breakers did not trip. None of them, not the individual breakers or the mains.

How can I tell if my AC units are causing this or if it isn't just a general service problem from our provider?

I've tried the following:

Shut off all the A/C units and wait to see if the flicker happens. (this is tough though since you can't prove a negative)
Called my provider and asked them to check our lines. They reported no outages or brownouts in our area
Checked all the circuit breakers

Edit: Additional specs

My electrical service specs are

200 Amp main

The breakers are

1 X 50A line for the dryer
1 X 40A line for the stove
3 X 30A lines for the 2 A/C compressors and something else, I'm not sure what. Clothes washer maybe?
29 X 15A lines for lights/outlets

That seems like a lot -- but there are still two empty slots in the panel. Although I know I shouldn't have the panel maxed out.

I'm trying to figure out how to do a load calculation to get a better idea but haven't found very good instructions on that.

Edit
Spoke with neighbors in my area. There are multiple reports of lights flickering like I experienced. I'm chalking this up to the utility provider having trouble handling the spike in load this week. Also, I'm gonna buy a couple of UPSes for sensitive devices in my home.

I realize these anecdotes from my neighborhood don't prove for certain that my new A/C units are not the problem. When I am able to, and get the equipment to, perform amperage measurements, I'll take that advice and get detailed electrical information. I'd like to have that information for myself, at any rate. It seems like a good thing for any homeowner to know about their home.


texts: How do I get rid of this dirt between the tiles of my bathroom shower?

texts: So I've tried to use bleach but this isn't coming clean. I know it's been a while since it's really been cleaned. Here's a pic:


texts: My diamond cup wheel keeps spinning off when slowing down

texts:
I've run into a problem, I need to to remove some very stubborn thinset in my basement bathroom and also level some uneven concrete.
I decided to try out the angle grinder method, I have a Bosch 1375A 4.5" angle grinder, Ridgid 5" diamond cup wheel and a Herzo 4-5" universal dust shroud.  My problem is the wheel spins off when the grinder is slowing down, I'm assuming it must have a brake, so the wheel doesn't slow down as fast as the grinder and so it spins itself off.  Has anyone encountered this problem?
Any suggestions on what I should do or suggestions on an angle grinder that would work properly with the wheel and shroud that I have?


texts: How can I fill a hole in a brick wall so that it can be redrilled

texts:
I'm trying to put up a coat hanger into a brick wall. The house is an old apartment block in Berlin and the coat hanger is quite heavy and sticks out from the wall so it will need quite a lot of support. Especially to hold up all the clothes.

I have tried to drill at several places but either end up hitting something that I can't get through or the opposite, the wall is weak and crumbles and the hole becomes too big and too lose. I've tried inserting screws with plastic anchors into those lose holes but they simply won't hold. I also don't have another place for the coat hanger.

So my plan is to refill the lose holes and drill again. As far as I can tell I have two options but both with their cons.

Option 1: Fill the lose holes with epoxy and stick in the screw before it sets. Con: I won't be able to get the screw back out and take my coat hanger down in the future.

Option 2: Fill the hole with hydraulic cement. Con: I'm afraid I won't be able to completely fill the hole and that it will leave air pockets. (The holes are 8 mm wide and quite deep).

So, is there anything I'm missing here? What would be the best way for a layman to fill a small drill hole in his brick wall so that he can drill again in the same place and later remove whatever he stuck in that hole?

All the best,
Eythor M.

P.S. I've tried doing my research and seen similar questions here. But none of them address the cons I mentioned above.


texts: Trouble wiring a Leviton DZ15S (originally a single pole with two black?)

texts:
I'm trying to replace an old single pole toggle switch with a new Leviton DZ15S.

Here's the issue... The new Leviton requires 3 connections to function. Black, red, and white.

Please see the following diagram for an embarrassingly drawn "exploded" view of the plastic outlet box... (seriously, It's all I could do in paint. I tried...)

The "runs" are effectively Romex or whatever brand. Two incoming legs. The left "run 1" has 4 wires. Red, Black, White, and a bare copper. Oddly though... "run 2" only has 3 wires. I made very sure of this, but it's only black, white, and bare which is all twisted up with the bare from run 1. Nothing touches or connects to this bare ponytail.

The objective!

Replace the old single pole 2 wire fan toggle switch on the right side of the diagram.
The new Leviton smart switch will require a "black", a "red", and a "neutral" connection to work. This is the problem, I'm not sure where to get these from and I don't want to guess... because it seems like a real bad idea to guess with things like this.

Tools I have:
Basically everything for standard electrical work. Pliers, half jaws, stripper, electrical tape, Fluke volt/ohm meter, twist caps for binding wires, etc. I'm sure I have whatever I need - just not sure what to do here...

Link to Leviton DZ15S product page

Please help!
and
Thanks!!


texts: Building Patio - Pavers against siding solution?

texts:
I used crushed gravel as a base for patio. I'd like the patio to get as close as possible to the house but am realizing that it may not be good to put the pavers right up against the siding.

The gravel is about now 3-4 inches "up" the siding as you can see in pictures.

Should I dig out the stones I put down against the house? Maybe just keep the patio 1/2 foot away from the house?

Ideas?


texts: How can I fix this very noticeable brush mark?

texts:
I painted a ceiling in my house yesterday. The previous finish was white matt but I wanted a satin finish on the ceiling.
I sanded the ceiling before hand with a drywall sander. It was the first time I had used it so I was admittedly a bit heavy handed in some places and stripped back the paint in some areas to the bare plaster. I then "spot primed" these areas and sanded them back.
I stupidly forgot to sand probably the most noticeable spot primed area on the whole ceiling before painting. I did it in the evening so I didn't notice it as there was no natural light. After applying 2 coats of the white satin paint you can really notice the brush marks.
You don't even see it if you stand anywhere in the room, its just when you are walking by or walking into it.... very annoying.
See here... the mark is right where the natural light hits the ceiling.

I don't think adding another coat of paint on top will fix this, could I possible just sand away the brush marks here and do 1 more coat of paint on the ceiling? that would mean this one patch on the ceiling will only have 1 coat of paint... would that stop it blending in to the rest of the ceiling?
Is sanding the whole thing back, washing and starting again the only way? :(


texts:
Setup: Two Switches for one light, one downstairs and one upstairs in a stairwell.

Old Switch Wiring  (black is in common of switch)( same type of switch upstairs)

New Switch: Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor switch, 2-Amp, Single-Pole, White

Wiring:

So here is the interesting part

With upstairs switch down, black wire from wall to green of new switch causes the new switch to click/switch but no lights

If the switch upstairs is up then the earth grounding wire (to the new switches green wire) works(light turns on) (when upstairs switch is down it doesn't light up)

Any ideas?

Edit: Updated some wording to make it more clear


texts: How can I conceal a gap between a wall and newly installed vinyl flooring that I cut too short?

texts: I cut my new vinyl flooring too short, causing a gap at one wall.  How can I cover it up?


texts: how long can i expect tile paint to last on a bath and vanity

texts: I hope to update my bathroom by painting the bath and vanity to white from cream. How long can I expect this to last ?


texts: What is the recommended way to destroy mold?

texts:
Back in the day I've heard that bleach is a good way to kill mold. The other day a home inspector suggested that Dawn dish soap actually works much better than bleach. I've heard from another home inspector to use the store-bought mold killer.

Does anyone know what really works and what doesn't for a DIYer?


texts: How to repair chair pocket joints with limited tools

texts:
I have broken chair that I'd like to fix. I have no wood working tools or experience. All I have lying around or currently have access to are ropes, hammer, nails, screws and wood glue.

The chair looks something like this, and one of the joint at the back near the corner block has come loose (just above the arrow where Stretchers is written).

Is there some hope to get this fixed and in usable condition?

'Til now I have joined the back and the front legs with ropes, to create tension, so that it will hold and it is doing a decent job, but I am sure there will be a better way to repair it. Thanks.


texts: Rewiring a boiler’s c wire for a smart thermostat

texts:
I want to swap out my low-voltage Honeywell for a Nest E thermostat. When I took the Honeywell off the wall I confirmed that I’ve got a C wire running up to the thermostat but when I wired up the Nest it wouldn’t turn on. Below is a picture of the wiring at the boiler. I had a plumber look at it while he was visiting about another issue, and he said I’ve got all the necessary wiring but he didn’t know how it’d need to be rewired.
I bought a C wire adapter in case I need it for this project, but need a little help figuring out the wiring.


texts: Last Follow-up to Two Previous MC 12/4 posts on 12/18/20 and 12/19/20 — Please Check My Plan?

texts:
Hoping this is my last question on this topic - ref. Following-up from New Circuit Help Please - Feeding 2-gang receptacle boxes with MC 12/4
You kind souls saved me from myself. I’ll implement the “MWBC recovery plan” you recommended to overcome my screw-up — for having purchased 12/4 with a blue wire instead of a gray wire ... I thought I was going to be able to tape the blue wire with white or gray tape but learned via the aforementioned thread that you can’t tape over wire smaller than 4 GA (ref. NEC 200.6(A). Many thanks to ECnerwal, ThreePhaseEel, and Harper - Reinstate Monica for having my back! Thank you!
So, here’s the updated plan, annotated as a recovery plan so folks who find this some time in the future realize this was not the ideal solution. Don’t do it this way! Don’t be like me. Read the other threads first! This could have worked if I had bought the MC 12-4 with a gray wire. But I didn’t.
You’ll note that I clarified I’m coming from a sub-panel, and I’ll feed from a section of 12/3 romex (from behind the wall in an unfinished storage room).

Hopefully this third time is a charm.  Sharing the neutral on this MWBC works because the 2-pole breaker feeds two hots 180 degrees out of phase with eachother, so even when pulling 20A from each of the hot legs (red and black), the shared neutral is pulling 20A while pushing 20A, so the net is 0A on the neutral. The max current on the neutral happens when only one circuit is pulling 20A.  Looking for confirmation this is all good before I sign off and finish this installation so I can start making sawdust instead of smaller and smaller pieces of wire.
Adding this pic given @bigchief response below:

Assuming this means I can use one back- input for line and the second back- for continuing to the load, without using a wire nut.
Thank you all very much!
Sincerely,
Rich
 Happy Holidays


texts: Why does my thermostat require 240volts?

texts:
Purchased smart thermostat from China still in transit, my old thermostat has two wires only from ducted gas heating unit was powered by 2-1.5 volt batteries.
The new thermostat requires a hard wire power source ,no batteries.
The connection at back of thermostat states 95-240 ac volts L and N , I gather line and neutral . See image.
My question is why do you need so many volts to power the display ?
Is it simply the fact that most households already have 110 or 240 volts (I live in Australia) supply so that's how they design them.
I just want to make sure that I don't damaged the unit by hooking up 240 volt power.


texts: Using a 4 wire 240v 30A circuit to power a 2 wire 240v device

texts: I have a 240v 30a circuit with a 4 prong 14-30 receptacle installed in my garage.  I'd like to connect a 240v baseboard heater that requires L1 (hot) and a neutral and a ground.  Since the circuit consists of 2 120v leads (red and black) is there a way to safely connect both to the single lead on the baseboard heater?


texts:
We are having AC installed in our new house and as a result we currently have two large ducts running against the wall of our dining room. The goal is to eventually have those concealed behind some dry wall (losing a small corner section of our dining room). But I'm thinking before doing that this would be a good opportunity to drop some cable from the upper floor (where I don't believe we have any jacks for cable TV) to the basement. We have cable internet and I intend to have my office of the upper floor, so I need internet access up there

Is this a good idea? The ducts end in a closest on the upper floor and I should (I think) be able to route cable to the master bedroom and the other upstairs bedroom (that I was planning on making my office). Should I use a conduit? If yes, what type? Is it a problem if it runs too close to the ducts? Should I run an ethernet cable instead (or as well) and keep the cable modem in the basement? If so, where would be the best place for the wireless router?

We will be transferring our cable service from our current residence to the new house when we move in and I strongly suspect the cable installer won't be too interested in running cable upstairs.


texts:
i'm trying to attach my compressor to a filter/regulator mounted on the wall with a short lead like this:enter image description here

The problem is that the threaded ends on the hose are fixed to the hose.  So I can't thread them in to something at each end without twisting the hose.  Many of the longer hoses have a fitting on the end that swivels, but not the short ones I've seen.

It seems there must be some kind of swivel union sort of  fitting to do this, but my google-fu is failing me and haven't found it at local hardware stores.  What's this called?

I know I could do it with a quick disconnect - just seems I should be able to screw it together.


texts: Should lintels above wall portals be considered for smoke alarm placement?

texts:
I need to place a smoke alarm on my first floor (no sleeping areas). There is a wall portal with a 15" lintel (see image) between the living room and the dining room.

I am unsure whether one alarm is adequate for both of these areas. My understanding is that smoke in either of these areas would tend to hug the ceiling and therefore, I would think that there would have to be a lot of smoke before it would begin to dip below the lintel into the other area. Assuming only one alarm in either area, my concern is that this could significantly delay the alarm. So, I wonder if the right solution is to install an alarm in each of these areas.

In the event of a fire, would enough smoke be in the air to trigger an alarm in either area or would the lintel tend to localize the smoke to one area and thus delay the alarm?


texts: How do I open a padlock after it has frozen?

texts:
I do some maintenance on the neighborhood ice-skating rink. To control the lights, there is an outside electrical panel that is locked with a padlock.

This padlock always gets frozen. Every time I need to mess with the light controls, I have a hard time trying to even get the key in, then I cannot even turn it. The only solution I have found so far is to heat it up with my bare hands, which risks frostbite. That was sustainable when the weather was good, but the temperature is going down to -25 Celsius (-13 Fahrenheit) this week.

Is there a easier way to unfreeze it?


texts: wiring an Eaton 200 amp box adding a 30 breaker. need to know where the neutral is connected

texts: Eaton 200 amp breaker box, adding 30 amp breaker for 110v system. Not sure where the neutral is connected. Can you shed some light?


texts: LiftMaster Formula 1 intermittent remote control problems

texts:
We own four of the LiftMaster Formula 1 openers and none of the remotes are battery-powered. (we use the remotes build into the vehicles)
All of the bulbs in the openers are incandescent and the ones in the garage are CFL and the openers have worked flawlessly for years. Of late mine has been really intermittent. I can be parked underneath the opener and open/close the door using  the remote without issue but when I back out it's impossible to close the door even from one foot outside the garage. Then if I leave it open, run an errand and come back X minutes later and accidentally push the remote (on autopilot) it will close the door but then I cannot reopen from the door. Conversely, if I get out of my car, go into the garage and close the door using the hardwired  control then come back X minutes later - my remote will open the door. It's very frustrating and confusing.
I might add that it's been exceptionally hot and humid so  this problem may be moisture related.
Regardless, this same thing happened several years ago and I called our local dealer - they sold me a hard CB radio-like antenna to replace the wire with. Of course as soon as I had it in hand the problem went away so I haven't installed it yet but after reading these posts I don't think it's going to resolve my problems.
Any ideas?  Thanks!


texts: Is there a way to unscrew a light bulb that has broken?

texts: The recessed light in my bathroom broke while trying to unscrew it, and only the metal collar remains. What is the best way to get that remaining part out?


texts: How does my geothermal heat pump heat my hot water tank/UV filter and softner

texts: I had my heat pump replaced recently and had it hooked it up to the hot water tank so that as the pump was on, whether cooling or heating the home would also partially heat the water in the tank.  My question is about how it heats this water - I've followed the piping and noticed its split before going to the softener and uv filter coming from the well to get to the heat exchanger - is it dumping the heated water into the tank or heating the existing water in the tank? I hope the latter,  otherwise my hot water will be harder than it needs to be, and if the water is contaminated,  not UV filtered.


texts: Should I caulk the top and bottom of my windows on the outside?

texts:
Lots of ladybugs in the house today, and I read that they're getting in through the windows, so I went to inspect. One window in particular has a large gap at the bottom. All of the windows on my house are not caulked in that spot, although some have almost no gap.

Bottom of window (that's a metal sill on the bottom):

Closeup:

I also noticed that all windows have a gap at the top as well (also, what about the vertical gap the orange arrow is pointing to?):

It's really weird to me but since ALL the windows are missing caulk in those spots, I'm thinking maybe there was a reason they weren't caulked? Should I leave them alone? I am not very well-versed in windows, so forgive my terminology (if anyone can point out to good resources, would be appreciated)


texts: Shorted receptacle, now another recep (GFCI) not working. Breaker perhaps?

texts: Receptacle on one breaker, light switch next to it on another breaker. Mistakenly touched receptacle black wire on light switch and caused sparks. Receptacle failed after that. Had another nearby GFCI receptacle STILL operating (dehumidifier operating entire time) that is on same breaker as fried receptacle. Turned off breaker (mistake in first place, thought receptacle and light switch were both on breaker). Breaker 20A, both plain receptacle and GFCI recep are 15A. Decided to go with 20A GFCI to replace fried receptacle. Installed and when turned on breaker NOTHING worked, including GFCI receptacle which does not reset and shows no light indicator. Do not know wire capacity (this was over fighting ants crawling through wall at receptacle). Switched Breaker back and forth and get NOTHING. Have decided to get obviously 15A receptacle to replace bad receptacle. Bought new breaker. Any thoughts? Have not seen charred wire and have not taken GFCI receptacle out for inspection.


texts: Confused by wires coming from ceiling outlet box

texts:
Hoping I can get some help here. Trying to figure out the wiring in my outlet box for a ceiling fan install. I have two black wires, two red wires, two white wires, and then a bare wire for ground.

Primarily confused by the two black and two red. I'd like to the fan and lights on independent switches, which seems plausible with this set-up, however confused by the presence of the two red wires.

If it helps, there are capped red and black wires in the two light switch boxes that should power these fans (there are three ceiling outlet boxes total). The fixtures were removed before we moved in, so I have no idea how any previous fans were wired.

Ceiling outlet box. Ignore the green wire (that's from the attached bracket). Seems to have two red, two black, and two white wires, along with bare ground. Can't seem to figure out the need for the red wires, or why there are two of each.

First light box. Features four total switches. The bottom two are used outside, however the top two should be for the ceiling fan I believe. Sorry the pictures aren't the best, but hopefully this may help a little to see where the wires are connected.

Here's the best shot I could get of the top switch from the first light box with the beige backing. Says that it is SPEC GRADE on it, if that helps anyone.

Here is the one switch on the second lightbox. I'd prefer for this switch to operate the lights, or the whole thing, since the lights will be the thing turned on and off the most.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you!


texts: Why do my garage door opener remotes need to be reset frequently?

texts: The remote for my garage door opener needs to be reset frequently.  I have two different remotes and they both need to be reset frequently so the problem seems to be with the garage door opener.  Is there something I can do to fix this problem?  Can I replace just a circuit board or something?  It's a pain to reset the remotes once a week or so. Does anyone know what causes this problem and how to fix it?


texts: Why are ball valves spherical instead of cylindrical?

texts: It seems strange to me that ball valves are ball-shaped, when I would have thought a rotating cylinder with a transverse hole cut in the same way would be easier and cheaper to machine. Does anyone have any ideas?


texts: What are these dead insects under my kitchen cabinets?

texts:
After removing kitchen cabinets we found these dead insects underneath?  What are they?

There flooring in my kitchen isn’t completely covered.  For example kitchen cabinets have no flooring underneath them.  I notice they exist around these areas perhaps at the edge of the vinyl.  Why so?


texts: How to run chlorine feeder at the same time well pump is running

texts:
I have a chlorine feeder (120v Stenner 45) that is supposed to run at the same time my well pump (240v) is running.

Currently they are set up on separate pressure switches, with the chlorine feeder set to switch on (40.x psi) slightly before the well pump (40 psi) is triggered and off slightly before (59.x psi) the well pump (60 psi) shuts off. Obviously this isn't ideal because A) it is hard to keep configured and working properly, and B) there is a chance that the chlorine feeder could be triggered, yet the well pump not get triggered (there is at least quart difference between the 2 trigger pressures), leaving it to run longer than needed.

As I see it, I have a few options:

Buy a 240v chlorine pump and run them off the same pressure switch
($$$).
Find a different type of switch for the chlorine feeder - e.g. flow
switch.
Find another way to run the chlorine feeder off the same pressure
switch as the well pump. If it's possible, this seems like the easiest approach. The 240 well pump line has 3 wires, I presume black and white are both hot and the ground. Is it possible to wire this switch to a 120 device (and leave it on the 240 well pump)?
Other?


texts:
I'm going to rent a good paint sprayer to paint popcorn ceilings. The only tip size available from the rental place is a 515. I've read this isn't the best size for interior painting, but will it suffice, and is there anything I should do to compensate for the larger-than-optimal amount of paint it will put out?

Thank you


texts:
Forgive me - first timer here, but I'm striking out on Google searches.
I live in a condo with central venting for the bathrooms & kitchen. The microwave is installed above the stove and hooks into said system. There's an AC current switch (model EC-1420N) leading to what I believe is a step down transformer (no distinguishing model or make listed) that then feeds a Honeywell damper Operator (model M847D1004)e outlet power feeds the AC switch with hot to L1 and the neutral runs through hole in the switch.
T1 off the switch feeds the transformer which I assume steps down voltage & watts as the damper switch is rated at 24VAC, 60Hz, 6W.
Something is not functioning, as the damper is not opening when I turn on the fan so no air is actually leaving my domicile.
I'm was getting 1 amp of current through the center of the switch, so I stripped back more wire & looped it again to get 2 amps. Still nothing.
The odd thing is, with the vent off or on, I'm measuring 120v off both leads of the AC switch. Meaning it's always closed & always sending power to the (what I assume) transformer, then to the damper switch.
I tried disconnecting the lead going to the transformer, but that didn't do anything either.
The wires from the transformer to the damper switch measure 10ths of amps, so not enough to power it.
Pictures here:
https://imgur.com/a/0UnzU27


texts: Confused about Ethernet wiring in new home

texts:
I’m moving into a new house that looks to have Ethernet wired through it though it looks like it was being used for telephone?
I’m wondering if it will be usable for Internet and if so what changes I need to make/what exactly I need to do.
Also is there any way to tell if it’s all cat 5 or cat 5e?
I don’t know much about this so step by step on how to make it work for Internet would be greatly appreciated.
So far my guess is that I need to pull all the wiring out of that current punch panel and add RJ45 connectors to each separate wire? At that point I just need a way to connect them to my router?
Thanks a lot!


texts: How can I fix this fountain and prevent it from happening again?

texts:
I bought a fountain recently and since it's been below freezing I put it outside empty. Well, it fell over in the first high wind day. Now the statue part has cracked off the base, and part of the bit that attaches them is cracked in half.
I assume I should try to fix it with an epoxy of some kind?
And how do I prevent it from cracking again if it falls over?
Do I need to bury the base of it?
Wait to put it outside until it's consistently above freezing at night and put water in it?


texts: How can I control a 240V heater from a pushbutton timer switch?

texts:
I am installing a new in-wall bathroom heater (240V - 6.7A). I want to put the heater on a timer rather than a thermostat. This will keep people from cranking the thermostat WAY up and leaving it that way. The timer should allow people to turn on the heater for up to 15 minutes and should not have a 'always on' option. The heater I'm going to use will heat the bathroom up nicely in 5 minutes or less.

I want to use a timer with buttons (like the one pictured below) rather than a spring loaded dial timer. Lots of companies make these timers but I have been unable to find one for use with 240v.

Why buttons rather than dial? I thought it would be cool. And, I thought such a timer would be easy to find. I retract the "easy to find" statement. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to implement this?


texts: How many outlets for a small recording studio/media room?

texts:
I'm getting ready to close the deal on a house that has a 20' x 20' detached garage that I will be converting into a recording studio/media room.

I'm going to be running two main power amplifiers (A Peavey Deca 724 rated at 350 watts per channel and a Carver Power amp rated at 200 watts per channel), along with the usual preamps and a mixing board, an HD Home theater projector,
2- 18" 500 watt RMS Powered Subwoofers, and a Pioneer Elite series Home theater receiver.

I'm wondering how many outlets that I might require to safely run all of this equipment as to not throw breakers every time I crank up the volume. The new detached garage has no power as of yet with the exception of one light bulb hanging from the ceiling and a switch beside the door, so it looks like I'm going to have to hire a guy to come out and install a sub-panel for me. I just want to know what kind of power requirements I'm going to have with this setup.


texts: What is this white powder coming out of my baseboard?

texts:
I was about to start cleaning when I noticed this white powder/dust coming out of the baseboard of my kitchen area and I was wondering what it might be. The powder seems quite fine and it very faintly smells like something sweet but used in construction. I have seen similar threads mentioning efflorescence but it does not really look similar to me and this is the first time in my 3 years living here that I saw this powder. Whats interesting is that the powder was being pushed towards the inside of the room almost as if there is a draft going through the baseboard/floor into the room. The dust only appeared on this one part of the baseboard and in no other room either. The wall is an inner wall and the part near the baseboard is some kind of drywall used to route electrical wiring.

Here are a few pictures of the powder. Let me know if more information is necessary