texts: Would increasing pipe size just after the meter give better flow without increasing pressure too much?

texts:
I have a wife and 5 kids. Three of them are teenage girls, which means I hardly ever get a chance to shower. I wanted to put in a second bathroom to help fix this. I spoke with some local plumbers and they said that I should just cut the 1/2 copper after the meter and replace with 3/4 pex. They said it would give much more flow so I wouldn't have to worry about water pressure dropping if both showers were being used at the same time. The meter is 5/8 coming in and then 1/2 after the meter.

The problem for me is that I used a pressure gauge and it said that my water pressure was 84 psi. My research on the project seemed to indicate that the plumber was wrong. Increasing the 1/2 copper to 3/4 pex would increase pressure and it is already too high.

Unfortunately, I already purchased all the supplies to convert everything over to 3/4 pex. I seem to be fixated on this project. Having a hard time thinking about anything else but don't know what to do.

I fear that 1/2 copper will not provide enough flow to cover two showers at the same time. I don't think 3/4 pex with a pressure reducing valve would help as it would just reduce the flow to less than what I have now. I can't see that having the city put in a 3/4 meter would help if pressure is too high with 1/2.

How can I make sure that I can feed two showers at the same time?

I also need to install whole house water filters. Everyone complains about the water but they say anything over 75 psi should have pressure reducing valve installed. It seems to me that if I need to bring the pressure down to 75psi it would not matter if I did that with 1/2 copper or 3/4 pex as the amount wouldn't change after the reducing valve. Is this correct?

Would a 3/4 pex line with reducer to 75 psi provide any more water than 1/2 copper reduced to 75 psi? I would think that the amount of water would be the same as the flow is reduced to lower pressure either way.

UPDATE
Thank you everyone for your thoughts and advice. Honestly, I'm still a little confused as I don't know if a 3/4 pex with pressure reducer to 75 PSI will offer any more water than a 1/2 copper line with pressure reducer to 75. My thinking is that regardless of pipe size, once it is reduced to 75 psi, the same amount of water will be available. I think you guys are saying that for some reason it will so I will book some time off next week and replace all the 1/2 copper with pex. I will do a homerun with 3/4 pex coming off the 1/2 pipe at the meter. Than branch off with 1/2 or 3/8 pex to all the faucets.

If I am wrong, please correct me. Otherwise, thank you everyone for your help.


texts: I am trying to wire in a GFCI outlet from a 3 way switch. There is a good ground nearby but no neutral. Can it be done and how?


texts: Can I use an over-rated transformer for a low-voltage lighting circuit?

texts:
I am trying to do a simple low voltage lighting design.  I intend to use 3 18w incandescent bulbs just to light a small area.  I want to know if there is a problem using a 120w transformer for this or should I use something much smaller like 75w?  The distance from the transformer to the first light will be about 20ft, and each light is separated by 10ft.  As far as I can tell I should use 12gauge wire for this.

Again the question is should I use a 75w transformer or 120w transformer and what is the problem using the 120w if I should not use it?

Thanks,


texts: How much will a board-on-board (shadow board) fence reduce the wind load?

texts:
I have had problems with a fence on one side of my garden because of wind in Montreal. The posts end up leaning away after a few years. Part of the problem might be how the posts were put in (perhaps not deep enough), but the wind is a big factor.

EDIT: Current fence design is 2m high with posts roughly every 15 feet, similar to the image below:

I'm wondering if a board-on-board fence design (aka shadow board or shadow box fence) will help much. It seems that there's more wood involved in this design, and so it will cost more. I'm not sure how much it reduces the wind load, and I'm trying to get an idea of the cost/benefit of the design.

Here's an image to give you an idea of what I'm talking about:


texts: I am remodeling my own 67 year old house basement and putting in a full bath. The 4" waste line runs a few inches below the concrete floor and passes by the proposed toilet. Previously I replaced the 4" CI waste line and stack vent with PVC.  I have room for a 4x4x3 Y and an immediate 90 up to the toilet floor flange (3" sweep radius) without losing my 12" back wall clearance. The branch of the Y is only 2ft down stream from the 4" waste stack vent. Without any horizontal run my only option for a vent connection is to use a side or back outlet 90 (Charlotte 300S or 303) below the toilet flange.  Even at that, cross drains low in the back wall require this vent pipe to run up between back wall and toilet bowl to get past the cross drains then back into the wall below the toilet tank where I can put an AAV in the wall above the toilet bowl.  I would think the branch port could possibly clog rendering it useless. Considering there is virtually no 3" horizontal run and considering the 4" main stack is only 2ft back from the stack is additional venting required? It would be great if you could direct me to a code vent exception for this condition.


texts: I’ve sanded down to where the wall feels even but now the patch’s showing what should I do next?


texts: Can I safely brush down old spray foam that is very dirty?

texts: We have an enclosed building that has been spray foamed years ago. By now it's very dark and dirty in the building and we found out we can brush it down with the broom. It works well and changes it back to original color but it just creates a lot of dust. How dangerous is this dust, or is there some better way to do it?


texts: What would cause a brand new water softener to not soften water?

texts:
About 15mo ago, I bought a house with a non-functional water softener.  The old unit was installed in 1993 so i figured it was simply at the end of its life and time to be replaced.  I finally got around to doing that today.  However, after running the new unit through the initial cleaning regen cycle indicated in the manual, the water from the tap still tests at roughly 50 grains which is the same as before installation and the same as untreated water from a tap before the softener in the plumbing loop.

It is a Morton MH34 (34k grain).  During initial configuration, only settings I changed from default were the regen time (from 2AM to 3AM), and the hardness (up to 50 grains from whatever the default was).  I also set the local time of course.

The initial regen used about 20 lbs of salt judging by the level drop in the tank.

I have walked through the manual regen verification in the manual which steps through each step and verifying using visual clues that it is functioning and all appears to function correctly.

I have taken apart the venturi component and verified no blockage there.

Everything about the unit seems to be working but it simply isn't producing results which, ironically, is exactly the symptoms the original unit exhibited.


texts: RCD tripping with fault on live wire only

texts:
I am installing a small electrical board for a home renovation. There is a single RCD 30mA, EU standards (I am in France). There are ~20 circuits, each with their own differential, most are OFF, I am only using the lights and some power points.

One circuit is posing a problem since yesterday when I was pulling another cable through the box, it is causing the RCD to trip ever since.

The problem is strange, only the +ve cable of this circuit trips the RCD (neutral does not even need to be connected). If I connect the live cable to live terminal of another differential, or directly to RCD I have the same problem (CONCLUSION 1 : the circuit's differential is not faulty)

The RCD does not trip the other circuits (CONCLUSION 2 : the RCD is not faulty)

If I take (only) the live cable from the circuit and connect it to the neutral terminal of a differential, or RCD the RCD does not trip. (CONCLUSION 3: something strange is happening, why does earth fault only trip RCD live ?)

This circuit has several power points connected in parallel with some solder points along the way. The solder points are wrapped in tape and embedded in a stone wall. While the concrete was drying the circuit used to trip, but I let it dry for a few days and no problems since, until yesterday. I cut the cable close to the entry of the wall to check whether the fault was in the wall, or between the wall and circuit board. There is definitely bad insulation inside the wall connection. But it is hard to access and I would at least like a temporary fix that does not require breaking into the wall.

Is there any.

Why does the RCD trip when the earth fault is connected to RCD live, and not RCD neutral?
Why was this not a problem until yesterday?


texts: Can I install a GFCI outlet next to my fuse panel, and run the circuit i need from it?

texts: I have a 100 amp fuse panel, and I want to install some GFCI protection to some areas of my home. I was wondering if anyone has tried installing GFCI outlets next to the fuse panel, in a proper box of course, and continuing from them to the circuits they want to protect, just as if they were installing one for the basement circuit?


texts: How far can the trap be from the washing machine? The trap now is about five feet from the waste line and the machine is next to it. I want to move the machine 10 feet from the trap, but don't want to relocate the trap. Is that OK?


texts: Should a concrete curb at a patio door be built on top of or inset into the slab?

texts:
This is going to be hard to explain, so please bear with me.  I am shrinking down an old 8' sliding glass door Rough opening from what appears to have been an old garage door originally.  The header seems sound, so I plan on framing in under it, about 24"x 80" between the foundation edge which was also the old rough opening edge, and the edge of a the rough opening I want. As this is  for an exterior door I need a minimum clearance of 6" vertical before the bottom of new siding, to prevent water and other issues.  I plan on building a mold to pre-cast a piece of concrete I have designed that will have embedded threads for the sill plate and holes for rebar to be epoxy fixed once in place and connected to existing structures.

My question is this, should I design this to sit on existing slab and set in place with hydraulic cement (my current plan) or should I cut out a chunk of slab and design this to fit down next to the slab?

Remember, this will not be load bearing as it is under the header for the old door.  As such do I need to worry about 'punch through' with the new block as it will not be over a footer as far as I know.

Thanks for reading and thinking about this.


texts:
We noticed issues with our water coming through our basement cinder block wall and hoped a new interior french drain would fix them. It did not.

Short Version:
We just installed a new french drain and we still have wet spots on the wall as high as six courses up. Why?

Long Version:
The picture shows our basement. The black is the cinder block wall. The part highlighted in red is the unfinished part. The part in blue is finished. The front of the house is at the top. 'S' is the location of the sump pit.

The previous owner painted the walls and the paint was flaking off because of efflorescence. The efflorescence was worst in the corner (C) and along the front wall. In the corner the efflorescence went almost to the top of the wall, but it got lower farther from the corner. There were wet spots at C where the paint had been brushed away. The very bottom of the wall at W would sometimes get wet and there would be a small amount of water on the floor. I made a small hole in the finished part of the basement (at H). The drywall, sill, stud, and insulation were clean, dry, and free of mold, but the block behind them had a strong smell of mildew.

We talked to a couple of waterproofing companies and they all agreed that a new interior french drain would fix the problem, so we got one installed. A three foot section of the old drain along the left wall was totally clogged with sand but the rest was clear. They said the existing pipe going into the finished area was clean, so they connected it to the new white S&D pipe with holes in it. There were already holes in the bottom row of block, so they did not drill any new ones.

It rained really hard today and the spots at C are wet and there is water on the bottom block at W. The new pipe coming into the pit is totally dry. The wet spots at C are as high as six courses up and the pipe is dry, so I can't image there is water in the wall. Where is the water coming from in the corner? What should I do with the finished area? I really don't want to put a new drain in that area if it is not going to fix the problem.


texts: gfci outlet to switch for garbage disposal

texts: I wanna start by saying I'm learning I'm by no means an electrician.  with that said I would.like to know if I hooked this gfci to switch up correctly for a garbage disposal. the garbage disposal is to be plugged into the gfci and ran by the switch.  I ran a new line to the gfci and hooked that up then ran splice wire from white and connected white from switch and Same for the hot and grounded all to green nut in back of box


texts: How should I re-fit a coat hook onto a door?

texts:
We had a coat hook screwed onto the solid part of a bedroom door and it served well for about 10 years, but it has now fallen off and the screws won't re-secure.  I have considered filling the holes and trying again, but have concerns whether screws into filler would hold the weight.  I have also considered using rawl plugs (anchors), but don't know if I can get any small enough - those we have seem too long.

Do I have to abandon the existing holes and have the hook placed a little off-centre with new holes?


texts: I need to install a 30 amp 120v RV outlet 140 feet from main box.  I thought I would use a sub panel to allow for a few lights and two 110 outlets.  Can I use a double pole 30 amp breaker with number 4 wire? My thoughts were since I was useing a double pole breaker I could use one hot to feed the rv plug and the other the rest. Thanks DC


texts: How can I improve the appearance of an old concrete storage room floor?

texts: What I'd like to know is the best and least expensive way to dress up an old concrete storage floor ? I thought about paint or stain or a mixture of both.   Do u have any suggestions?


texts: I have concrete driveway piers with a stone facade and one of them is tilting like the leaning tower of Pisa. How can I right it and keep it stable?


texts: Sealing a pinhole at a soldered pipe connection?

texts:
I just replaced my kitchen faucet with a new faucet that was sold-as is, in-box, from an auction. After spending hours trying to get the old faucet off (years of rust and corrosion), I installed the new faucet and connected the sprayer hose and hot and cold feed pipes to new plastic/mesh supply lines that connect to the copper underneath the sink.  This faucet is a pull-down sprayer style faucet so all the water comes out the sprayer hose after entering the hot/cold mixer from the supply lines.

Well, I got it all set up and sealed up with teflon tape and everything looked great so we turned the water, when I noticed the smallest bead of water begin to form at the solder on the sprayer hose connection, where the copper pipe that is fed from the mixer attaches to the mesh hose.  The water is coming from the joint where the copper pipe is soldered to the connector that the sprayer hose screws into-- that is, the solder that was done at the factory.  It's a tiny, tiny leak (two out of four times I ran the water and did not see any water bead out) but it is clearly coming through a bad part of the solder and not from the threaded part of the connection.

The faucet was bought as-is from auction so factory warranty is out of the question, and it was such a pain getting it all installed that I'd really hate to have to go and replace the thing again (especially since faucets are expensive).  Can I use plumber's putty to seal up the hole in the apparently bad solder or should I try to re-solder it? Do I have any other options?


texts: Is there any feasible way to work with live electrical wiring?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How do I install an electrical outlet on a live circuit?

I remember back in my college days, having a badly damaged outlet plug on a built-in dresser/vanity right above my bed (the face had cracked away exposing the metal contacts for the hot and ground). My solution, not needing the plug at all, was simply to tape over it. However, had I put in a maintenance request, let's assume for a second that the most granular breaker circuit available would still shut down half the dorm floor and so it normally wouldn't be done.

How then would an electrician or maintenance guy attempt to replace the outlet while keeping it live? Obviously the average joe working on his home wiring should ALWAYS kill the breaker (because otherwise he can kill himself), but if you HAD to work on a live circuit, as a professional electrician, how would you prepare/protect yourself?


texts: I've been considering using heat tape this year, to protect my pipes from freezing. Are there any suggestions for the proper use or installation of heat tape, or pros/cons?


texts: Flexible mirror for anamorphic art illusion

texts:
I am looking for a flexible mirror that can be folded into a cylinder so as to use in the cylindrical anamorphic illusions. In the same video, the guy has shown the silver sheet, I would like to know the name of the same.

Any idea what it is called and from where we can buy it?


texts: Trying to change a lightbulb out of a ceiling fixture

texts:
I am trying to change the light-bulbs in my kitchen ceiling light, I'm just unsure how to do it with this one without accidentally tearing it out of the ceiling.

Does anyone know how to unfasten this fixture, as well as what make it is?


texts:
I had a 15 amp 1 pole breaker connected to a gfci in my backyard.

Now I need more juice. I decommissioned this 15 amp circuit.

I fished a 12/3 from a 2 x 20 amp 1 pole breakers thinking I was connecting a regular outlet outside as I've got 2 hot wires now.

I thought the GFCI would connect like a regular outlet until I remembered the load/line and my mistake.

Could you recommend a solution for this kind of situation. I would rather not install a double box and 2x gfci. I would like to have a single receptacle with 2x 20 amp and be able to gfci it somehow.

I could fish a new wire. Else, I ran out of idea.

It's a Nova panel 200 amp. 1985 I guess. I use Eaton cutler-hammer DNPL breakers.

The double breaker fits bottom right. Not installed on the picture yet.


texts: How do you replace old knob tube wire in switch box notched in trimmer studs next to front door

texts: The three wide light switch box next to our front door was notched in the jack studs around the front door.  I want to replace the knob and tube wiring to this switch, 3 lights and power.  The problem is the old wires run through the studs length wise from above.  There is no good access to these wires from pulling them out and running new wires where they were.  There is access from below but would require drilling up through the studs lengthwise.  Is this even possible?  Any suggestions?


texts: Is it legit to use this disconnect this way

texts:
This is more an expert question for the senior users here, i.e., licensed or former electrician, and/or engineer.
I want to replace a rusted out sub panel that feeds 3 circuits at a residential dock with this Spa Panel Disconnect.
Currently the existing disconnect is fed by a 10/3 direct burial and is fused by a 30amp breaker inside the main house The existing disconnect is a main lug type.
After replacing with new disconnect, I will continue to keep it protected by the 30amp breaker inside the main house, but I'd like to back feed, yes you read me right, back feed the 50A GFCI and treat it as a main disconnect while utilizing the GFCI protection it provides to protect the smaller branch circuits "down stream" ( pun intended ).
Update With Pictures


texts: Cleaning grout under caulk line (between tile and tub) before re-caulking?

texts:
I have a 1.5 year old condo and I recently pulled the old caulk job the builder put in, and found they grouted between the tub and tiles and just caulked over it. The grout is discoloured in places (blue, orange, dark) so I figure it's mold I have to kill first.

But should I remove the some of grout here first? Or can I leave the grout (after removing mold) and just caulk over it again?

There's a razor thin line between the group and the tub already, and the build's caulk job never adhered to the tub at parts, allowing moisture in.

I have some pics of lines here (little pieces of old caulking remain):
https://imgur.com/a/WoRx4


texts:
I have a home that was built in the 1950's with an unfinished basement. I'd like to do a DIY remodel to the best of my ability, but am willing to hire a professional for some steps if a novice like me shouldn't do some of them.

The first step (as far as I know) is to buy a dehumidifier to remove any excess moisture, and once that has had some time to get to work (a week or so?), seal any cracks in the foundation and cement bricks. Is this the correct first step? If so, what is the best way to take care of sealing the cement?

Note, my home has a large hill behind it, and water comes down the hill after rain. It's only flooded once in the 23 years I have lived here, but often in the Spring water will get in through the cracks and drip down. Not enough to pool on the floor, but enough that it has left water marks as you can see here:

[Basement image 1]:
  [Basement image 2]:
  [Basement image 3]:

Obviously water damage is a huge concern once I've put all of the money into insulation, flooring, furniture, etc. I'd rather pay the price now than later. So, my question is:

Would it be better to hire a professional for sealing the cracks in the cement, or is this something someone with little home-reno experience (me!) can do successfully?


texts: Why is my electric furnace warm if it isn't being used?

texts: Our furnace has not been used as the weather has been fairly warm lately. It may have turned on for a minute the previous night, but I do not know. Anyways I was walking past furnace and noticed I could feel heat coming through the covers. I removed the cover and it was pretty warm. The blower motor felt kind of hot. I flipped the breaker to cut off power supply to the furnace. I did not smell burnt wiring but there was a hot smell. How could the furnace have been so warm when it hasn't been ran regularly the last few weeks?


texts:
We want to knock the kitchen and dining room into 1 room and I am hoping someone can help tell me if the highlighted wall is non load bearing
The house is a bungalow


texts: Where should my furnace filter go in a Lennox G40UHX series furnace?

texts:
I have a Lennox G40UH(X) series furnace, which is installed in our attic (We have a single-story house on a slab). Because the furnace is installed in the attic, it is "laying down" on its side, and the incoming air is piped into what would be the bottom of the unit if it was standing up. We have intake vents in almost every room of the house (small vents, about 12" long by 8" tall). These vents go up to the attic, and they're all routed into a big metal box which is appears to be welded to the bottom of the furnace.

Because this is kind of hard to imagine, I mocked up a little image of my setup (this isn't my actual furnace, just a similar picture I found on Google):

I have flexible ducts leading to the cold air intake "box" that is welded to the bottom of the furnace, and round flexible ducts leading from the hot air "box" to all of our vents (which are in the ceiling).

The problem I am having is that I can't see where to install a filter! I can remove the front panel and see the bottom motor, but there's no where to actually put a filter.

According to the User's Information Manual:

  This unit is not equipped with a filter or rack. A field-provided high-velocity filter is required for the unit to operate properly. A filter must be in place whenever the unit is operating

I don't have any idea what a "field-provided filter" is. When we bought the house, there were a few destroyed filters in the attic next to the furnace (all of different sizes, a few cut to different sizes, but no filter in the furnace. It looks like the previous owners had no idea either. So, for now, we've just been running the furnace without any filter.

Is there something I can do to put a filter in? Is it really harmful to run the furnace without one? Should I look into putting filters in all of my little air intakes around the house?

Update: As is usually the case with me, I put off worrying about the furnace until it started getting too cold here at night. I finally climbed up to the attic and took a good look at the furnace. There isn't any indication of where a filter should go, and no slot to slide it in or bar to hold it in place.

This is the air intake area - you can see the circulating fan on the right, behind the control board:

I put the filter along the bottom - a 14x25x1 fit snug across the whole side (bottom if it was standing up). I had to fold and bend the filter some to get it inside the furnace. The only thing that seems to hold it in place is the body of the circulating fan:


texts: Air conditioning: Frequent on-off of outdoor unit or stay on for long duration

texts:
I've a LG 1.5 tonne split AC in my room. As with many LG models, the ac comes with auto shut down feature of the outside unit as soon as the room temperature reaches the temp set in the AC. So this leaves me with two scenarios and I need help in determining which is ideal for less power consumption.
Scenario 1:
I set the temp in AC to 28-29 deg cel. In doing so, the outdoor unit runs for about 12-15 minutes and then shuts down for around 5 minutes (until the room temperature rises again and the cycle continues)
Scenario 2:
I set the temp in AC to 23-26 deg cel. The outdoor unit, in this case, runs for around 35-50 minutes and stays off for around 5-10 minutes and the cycle continues
I've come across suggestions that the outdoor unit consumes a tremendous amount of power to start and hence it's recommended that the unit stay on for longer duration as opposed to frequent on-off in order for less power consumption, but I'm not sure how genuine this information is.
Any inputs?
If it helps in any way, the region in question is India.
UPDATE:
Model Name: LSA5VP3M


texts:
I've been using my shower with just dry wall up for months now (don't ask :) Anyway, there's a little bit of mold, I'm guessing, on a small section of the wall. I'm finally ready to put up some tile.

Do I need to replace the dry wall since I've been abusing it with the shower before I put up new tile. Can't I just let it dry or spray something on it?


texts: My dryer drum quit working but when we turn it on it heats up. I had a guy come out and look at and told me the heating element was bad and it was blowing fuses. He then gave me a quote for $230 is that the going rate?? I was wondering cause parts alone are less than $100


texts: Why does my stove vent fan take time to turn on

texts:
The vent hood is quite old. For some reason when I flip the switch to turn it on it takes 10-30 seconds to actually turn on. I've checked it and there's no power flowing for those 10-30 seconds. There's no sound during that time or any indication of what's going on. At first I even thought it wasn't getting any power until it suddenly started after I'd left the switch on for a bit. I mean, its definitely not getting power for those few seconds but I thought it was a dead motor or something at first.

It always does this, even if it was just running. Turning it off and then on again will cause it to stop and take its time to turn on again.

I'm fairly decent at DIY household electricity, but I've never encountered a problem like this. It defies my basic understanding of electricity.
I think it might be the switch but I don't know how to check for that and don't know what to do to replace the switch on an old stove range if it is.


texts: How to stop a metal table from vibrating when bumped

texts:
I built this table recently and when you bump it, it vibrates continuously for several seconds. Imagine a tuning fork vibration, not a wobble. It makes everything on top of the table shake.

Does anyone have any ideas on what is causing this and what could be done to solve the problem? I just welded brackets in the corners and it did not fix the issue. I will try to post a photo of that as well. The steel tube legs are open on top and bottom. I tried with rubber feet and without. Tried on hard surface and carpet.


texts: Water/antifreeze radiator cooled work shop

texts:
An additional line of thought.
Cooling radiators in summer?

I found this having the same concept for cooling. I live in south louisiana, US where 95F is vary common turning tin boxes into a slow cooker. I am going to build a decent shop for all my automotive, and construction tools.

The concept I had was some large truck radiators for a couple of non load-bearing walls and either use some city water to run through them, cooling the shop a touch and heating my water some before hitting my home water lines, or use the canal on my property with a water ram pump.

I acknowledge the potential multiple metal types causing issues and the need for a filter for the canal water and depending on the radiators I get if I go the other route a filter before the water gets near the house.

My city water right now is coming out the ground at 79F, Canal water at 76F, at noon. Ambient direct sunlight temperature of 85 sheet metal indirect sunlight 100 degrees.

Any points of interest or concern that have not already been mentioned?


texts: Is a GFCI allowed to be below a washer water connection?

texts: We just redid bathroom/ laundry and noticed that washer 3prong and gfci were beside but below washer shutoff and drain. Isn't it dangerous to be so close to a water source and why didn't contractors or inspector notice it


texts:
I have a recessed light that I tried to change to an LED bulb. I was able to unscrew the old bulb, but I can't get it out because there is a shield blocking the light from the can in one direction.

While trying to figure out how to get the bulb out, the trim pulled down from the ceiling drywall, and I'm unclear on how it attaches to the can above it, so I can't remove it, or re-secure it.

How are these trim pieces assembled?


texts: How to deal with baseboard heating causing problems with a headboard?

texts:
I've got baseboard heating along every wall in the master bedroom.

The bed I bought has a headboard that's tenuously bolted to a frame which doesn't exactly match. On top of that, the baseboard heating makes it such that the headboard is not pressed flat against the wall and whenever a head touches the headboard it's putting pressure on the headboard that makes it start to angle back towards the wall.

This makes it creaky and over time will undoubtably cause the headboard to either snap or come loose from the frame.

What can I do about this?


texts: Can rotary tool bits be used with a drill?

texts:
Can I use accessories like this Dremel 110 Piece Super Accessory Kit  with a regular drill or impact driver?
Are there any advantages of rotary tools over impact drivers?

I would guess they might be more convenient to use because of the shape of the tool, but other then that is there something precluding me from using the bits with drill/driver?


texts:
Not sure if this is the correct forum to asking such a question, but I am tearing down an old AC motor that has seen better days. Essentially through to clean each component and replaced any frayed wiring. I cleaned up shaft housing and noticed a piece of cotton hanging out quite a bit (now know its the oil wick to lubricate the shaft) so I tried to pull grab and pull it out, but a little more came out from the recess. I figured I'd better consult someone before I get ahead of myself.

To give an idea of what I'm referring to check the image located quarter ways down the page and note 'e' in Figure 1.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Electric-Motor-Tutorial.ashx

Is it possible to replace this wick?


texts: walk in shower is slowly creating a hole in the surrounding wall.  it is not a big issue, but something that I would like to fix for aesthetic purposes.  any recommendations on how I would fix the wall and then prevent this from happening again?


texts: what drill bit size to pilot drill hole into stud for 15/64" lag bolt

texts:
Im trying to install a tv mount that has no instructions.  Using my drill guage plate, 15/64" is the smallest hole these lag bolts can screw into. What size drill bit should I now use for pilot drilling into the wood stud?
thanks


texts: What is this in my electrical box? Can I attach my ground wire onto this screw? Will it be securely grounded?

texts: I am trying to wire a dimmer in an old outlet box and need to attach a ground. All other holes are too big or small, except the two that are being occupied by what looks like a wire clamp. Is it safe to attach my ground wire to this clamp? Thanks for your help!


texts: Can I use a nailer with a higher consumption than my compressor's SCFM rating?

texts:
Can I run a pneumatic nail gun with a consumption of 4 SCFM max on a small portable 1HP compressor with a SCFM rating of about 3 SCFM @ 90psi? What about tools that with higher SCFM consumption say 5 or 7?

What would I expect if I try to use that setup.


texts: Entry way doors from garage and driveway

texts:
I have a patio that was converted into a family room by the previous owners. The only exterior door entry to this room is from the driveway. The only entrance to the garage is through the garage door from the driveway. If the powered garage door were ever to break down, we would have no way of getting into the garage.

I am going to remodel the family room ( marked as "TV Room" in the picture ). The best place for a door from the family room into the garage for my planned layout of the room is what I show in the picture. Obviously it's also the worst place since the door to the garage can bang into the door to the driveway.

But I'm willing to live with that unless someone knows of a serious reason why I can't or shouldn't do that, such as a probable code violation. I'm in Missouri, USA.


texts: What type of screws and rawl plugs should I use?

texts:
I have a a framed canvas picture that I need to hang on a the wall. It is about 3 foot in height and 2 foot wide.

The wall is made of solid brick but has been boarded over with plasterboard and then plastered and painted.

What type of plugs should I use for this? Also what length screws? I was thinking they would have to be fairly long, maybe 50-60mm, to fix in to the brick?

I am assuming that this will require at least 2 screws to be fixed to the wall securely.


texts: How do i ground a new overhead light fixture? I'm replacing a 2 wire fixture with a new 3 wire fixture wich includes a ground wire

texts: How do I ground a new overhead light fixture?  I'm replacing a 2 wire fixture with no grounding wire with a new 3 wire fixture which includes a ground wire.


texts: Cheap alternatives to translucent polycarbonate sheet?

texts:
I'm looking for a material to cover an uninsulated wall that is both durable and translucent enough to diffuse sunlight inside.

Polycarbonate sheeting looks like the best material for the job but is expensive and not easy to find. Plexiglass, acrylic etc. also seem expensive for how long it seems to last given some reviews. What should I be looking for?


texts:
3 way switch 1

I currently have 5 lights controlled by two 3-way switches.
Not sure if this is relevant, but the above exists in a partially finished basement(Ceiling and two walls exist). I am completing the other two walls and will be running wires, adding outlets etc.
I intend to achieve the below configuration :

Make an existing 3 way switch to single pole that controls 2 lights
Make the second 3 way switch to single pole that controls 2 lights
Add a new switch(single pole) to control 1 light

Any ideas on how I can achieve the above configuration will be appreciated.
Can add any other relevant information that may be required.
Thank you


texts: Is it okay to shut off the cold water(blue tubing) to the water heater with the main water still on?

texts:
We have a leak in the bathtub faucet that needs to be addressed, but getting to the main water shutoff is located in a crawl space beneath the adjacent unit.

Is it okay if I shut off the cold water supply to the hot water heater for a few hours, while I repair the tub faucet?

When I turned it off just briefly, it started making an almost pressurizing noise, which had me a little worried. Might have just been the water retreating down the piping, but I wanted to make sure


texts: Replacing light fixture UK unable to determine which wire is which

texts:
We had our kitchen redone within the last year, part of that was adding a new light fitting which was to be replaced later in the year.

That time is now, I've just taken the old one off which has seemingly the same connections, but after plugging into what I thought was the exact same position, our power just keeps tripping.

I have been putting the Blue and Brown the the Neutral on the fitting, the middle in the Earth, and the Black and Red in the Live.

Could anyone suggest what  I am doing wrong?

Stupidly, I didn't take a photo of the light fitting before I removed it so I'm not sure if the combination has been mixed up.

Thanks.


texts: What causes gas oven to click but doesn't always ignite?

texts: I have a Whirlpool WFG530SOESO range that I purchased new a few years ago. For a little while now it has been hit and miss if the oven works. You can always hear the igniter clicking and smell some gas but it doesn't always ignite and heat up. The clicks go in a burst of 3-4 clicks at a time for 3 or 4 times then the oven ends trying. Sometimes it ignites on the first burst other times I restart it a few times before giving up. What would cause it to ignite sometimes and sometimes not ignite?


texts: Buzzing sound from junction box when dimmer switch is on

texts:
I replaced my dishwasher a few days ago. The old one didn't need / use a ground, but the new one does. The old one was coming through a junction box that then went along to a dimmer switch, with 3 wires running to it. I measured with my MM hot - neutral and got 120, then hot to third wire and got 120, then again neutral to third wire and got 0 also. I assumed that that was the ground wire and spliced in a wire at that junction running it to the ground wire of the dishwasher.

Dishwasher works fine now. However, when I turn on the dimmer switch, there's an audible buzzing sound and the lights don't come on. The dishwasher continues to work (or at least stay lit) with this switch on.

What did I mess up?

edit

It's possible that the cap I used to splice the ground wire in was too small for 3 wires. Would this behavior be consistent with a loose ground connection for a dimmer switch?

edit 2

It was a loose connection. Fixed that, switch works, no buzzing. But I'm still concerned that the yellow cable coming in is not a ground.
Measuring hot - supposed ground. Switch off - 120V. Switch on - 0V. Neutral - supposed ground. Switch off - 0V. Switch on - 120V. Is this a switched hot? This is off the old dishwasher circuit breaker. The only thing on it is the dishwasher, dimmer lights and one kitchen outlet. Why would there be a switched hot down there?

Picture:

Center hole - in from the wall. White, Black and Yellow wires. Conduit to the right - goes to dimmer switch. Conduit up goes to the new dishwasher box. It looks like there are 4 wires running to the DW box, there aren't. The yellow just loops past it. I'm using a scrap of white wire for the ground (I know, I'll fix it - all I had at the time).


texts: Which steel is stronger: Cold rolled, hot rolled, or stainless?

texts:
I need a 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 80" steel flat bar.  I will omit the details of what I need it for because this question is basically asking which composition yields a stronger steel.

www.discountsteel.com has a wide variety of steel bars, but I am not sure how to read the ratings regarding tensil strength and hardness.  Here are all the products:

Stainless Steel
Cold Rolled Steel
Hot Rolled Steel

If you click the ASTM material Specifications tab at the bottom of the pages and scroll to the bottom, you will see mechanical data for which I have the following questions:

First off, what is "minimum tensil strength"?  The stainless steel 304 has a minimum of 75, but the hot rolled and cold rolled appear to have ranges of 58-80 and 55-70 respectively.  Why does stainless have a single number and the others have ranges?  Why does it says minimum?  Does a higher number mean stronger steel?

What is minimum yield strength?

Second is the hardness scale which uses the Rockwell scale which I've looked into a bit.  The stainless rating for 304 is 88, but the rating for hot-rolled is B76.  For cold-rolled, it seems to be broken into two:  Hot rolled is B67-B80 and cold drawn is B80-B90.  This confuses me even more because this looks like the steel is cold rolled hot rolled?  Why is the stainless rating just 88 while the others seem to be a range and use the B scale?  Does stainless just default to a scale since it's just represented by a raw number?


texts: Tiny 240v RC Snubber, LC Filter for GFCI outlets

texts:
What's the tiniest 240v RC Snubber or LC Filter have you used or seen that one can plug into a receptacle outlet like a plug (where the appliance can plug into the LC filter plug unit)?

My siblings bathroom brand new 240v GFCI receptacle kept tripping on the small black electric fan. They want me to remove the outlet, but I need it as backup to the full house GFCI breakers (in case they fail).

In my experiments before. If I added an LC filter to the GFCI outlets, it no longer trip. But the LC filter I had was huge (a long power strip, not appropriate for bathroom used as it can cause shock).

The LC filter works because an EE explained to me it can flatten the energy of the magnetic field.

This was because even when with ac input put to the load side with ac input open (illustration below). It still tripped (even when the design was not reversible). This means it was not tripping due to leakage current but some kind of capacitive coupling effect (I gave a sample to an EE and he is still analyzing it).


texts: How can I remove a plastic flange from a 4 inch PVC pipe?

texts: Having an issue trying to remove a plastic flange from a 4 inch PVC pipe.  I tried cutting and chiseling it away.  It must have been cemented with a primer and cement.  Are there any other (simple) ways to remove the flange?  The top part is off I'm only dealing with the part that is left inside the PVC.


texts: Rinnai R85 - no water pressure after flush

texts: I have a Rinnai R85 tankless water heater.  We recently had an issue with no hot water which was resolved by performing a flush.  Since then, upstairs sinks and tubs are fine, but our two kitchen sinks have no pressure and one doesn’t have pressure on hot or cold.  HELP!!!  Nothing was changed on any lines - but there’s no pressure and only in those sinks.


texts: How can I install this programmable switch where a neutral is not present?

texts: I'm trying install this programmable switch but the instructions do not match reality. The instructions refer to the existence of a black (load) cable and a white (neutral) cable supposedly coming out of the wall, but instead I have two black cables and a naked wire. Is the naked wire the equivalent of the white in the diagram?


texts: UK Building Regulations Concerning Radiator Pipes in Walls

texts:
I had a builder install a wall cabinet in a new build. He hit a radiator pipe so I then called a plumber to fix the leak, who did so by disconnecting the relevant radiator from the system . The plumber also claimed that the plastic radiator pipe should never have been installed like it was; it's bending around the corner of a room instead of being just vertical or horizontal, and also crosses behind electrical wires. The plumber said this is 'illegal' and that if I contact my property developers they would be responsible for fixing the punctured pipe, rerouting them safely, reconnecting the radiator and patching the wall back up, whereas if I were to use him I would have to pay a few hundred.
However, I think the developers will say that it's my fault and not fix it, so if there is a buildings regulation breach or any strictly 'illegal' activity going on because of the piping being the way it is, I'd like to know for sure. The only regulation I could find was NHBC guidance that plastic pipes ought to have metal strips behind them so they can be detected, but that guidance hasn't been breached. Is it really a breach of regulations for the piping to be bent around the corner of a room and for it to cross over insulated electrical wires?


texts: How is garbage disposal installation different in a sink without an existing disposal?

texts:
I'm planning on buying a garbage disposal for a sink that does not currently have one. All of the installation instructions I have found assume that I would be replacing a garbage disposal rather than installing one in a sink that only has a drain.

Will installing in a sink without an old garbage disposal require any additional skills, equipment, or parts beyond an ordinary replacement? What installation steps, if any, will be different?


texts:
My dryer vent was setup to go thru the wall, up 2 stories, to my roof.....
I have a major problem with this type of setup, as every couple of months, my dryer starts taking forever to dry. When I open the dryer door, I see lots of moisture on it. We then have to take off the duct from the wall connection and we find lots of wet lint that needs to be taken out. We run a blower thru the vent, from the bottom, hoping it will dry/clear out whatever is in the vent between the bottom floor and the roof. I'm thinking that with heavy rain, water must be getting in somehow from the roof vent. I can only imagine what's in there... I don't have access to the roof, as it is 2 stories up (I live in a townhouse). My question here is.. does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this problem? I have lived here over 20 years and am so fed up with this... I'm getting ready to just leave the duct behind the dryer with a panty hose on it, but have read this is not recommended. I live in Florida and already have lots of humidity.
I appreciate any suggestions!


texts: I can't find this specific hammer anywhere online,  does anyone know what it's called or used for?


texts: what is the best low maintenance finish for a hardwood floor

texts: Home made mesquite flooring.  What is the best floor finish?  Low traffic but subject to spills...this is for the man cave.  Installing diy mesquite floor tiles, 4 - 6" width, random lengths.  Aprox 1/4 inch mesquite glued to 3/4 inch construction grade plywood....avoiding voids.


texts: How can I prevent mice from entering my house?

texts: Every fall when the weather gets cooler it is a given that a mouse will end up in my house.  I understand that this happens probably to most home owners (especially considering the number of trees I have around my house, etc.).  But if I wanted to take some action next summer/early fall to prevent mice from entering, what could I do?


texts: Water pressure low after hose was left on overnight

texts: The water pressure inside my house went way down and stayed down after the hose was left on overnight.  It's been a while now and the water pressure is still low (useable but low).  The air pressure on the pump hovers between 40 and 50psi and we are served by well water.  I hope there was no permanent damage done by leaving the hose on for that long.  Anyone have any suggestions?


texts: Why does my hot cooktop indicator light stay on after the cooktop is cool? The indicator light now wont turn off

texts: My alamna Range electric smoothtop stove, on indicator light I just noticed tonight now stays on after everything has cooled down. Is this safe? Is it okay to just leave it, it still works fine.


texts: Combination GFCI/AFCI Breaker not working when replacing regular breaker

texts:
First time posting.

I'm doing some upgrades to our house electrical. We live in a 1950s home. An electrician recommended I replace the old breakers on ungrounded circuits off the house sub-panel with combination GFCI/AFCI breakers. Here are the ones I've purchased: http://w3.usa.siemens.com/powerdistribution/us/en/product-portfolio/circuit-breakers/residential-circuit-breakers/Pages/Dual-Function.aspx. We have a mix of 15A and 20A breakers.

Generally, I haven't had any issues replacing the breakers. I've done several and they all work as expected. However, one breaker slot on the sub-panel is behaving strangely. The slot works as expected with the old breaker. But when replacing the old breaker with the new GFCI breaker, it won't flip into the ON position. It seems that nothing is wrong with the new breaker itself: two new breakers of the same type exhibit the same behavior in that slot, but work as expected in another slot. The instructions that come with the new breaker suggest this issue happens when no power is getting to it, but that doesn't make sense to me since the old breaker works fine in that position.

To be clear, the new breaker doesn't appear to be tripping. It never is able to switch on to begin with.

Does this ring any bells? Any troubleshooting tips appreciated.

EDIT: I was using Seimans Breakers when I should have been using GE Breakers approved for use in my particular panel. After replacing with the correct type of breakers, everything works as expected in all the original positions.


texts: What could cause a ground/soil smell on the first floor?

texts:
My house is on a slab (no basement, no crawl space) and every summer when it gets hot and humid i am getting a ground/soil smell in our living room. First i was blaming it on the absence of the basement but now realized that i only get this smell in one room. The only difference about that room is that it has a lawn along one wall and a flower bed along another.

Can that be a reason? Maybe i should pave a foot of space along that wall.

What else can cause it?


texts: What does that mean if my LED light bulb starts blinking when I turned it on?

texts:
I have an LED light bulb: Philips 60W incandescent equivalent

I've owned it for about a year and have been very happy with it.  This morning when I turned it on, it started blinking.  Not flickering, but a very deliberate one second on, one second off, one second on, one second off.  This continued until I fiddled with the bulb at which point it came on and stayed on.

It has never done this before.  I unscrewed the bulb and it rattles.  Something in it may be broken, but it still seems to work.    I couldn't find anything on the Philips website about this type of behavior.  Does anybody know what it means?


texts: How do I add an outdoor GFCI outlet to an existing indoor 2 wire outlet with no ground?

texts: Indoor outlet does not have a ground wire but the outdoor outlet does.


texts: What type of latch should I use for a sliding gate?

texts:
I need to build some safety gates at the top of my stairs to keep little ones contained.

Because of the way that the landing is arranged, I am thinking about a sliding gate instead of a traditional gate on a hinge that swings open.

It would be similar in function to the gate built here except smaller and for use indoors.

In other words, something like this that slides instead of swinging open on a hinge:

The only thing that I don't have a great solution to is how to latch the gate when closed.  I don't want to use an eye-and-hook latch as in the aformentioned project because they don't look good and are hard to use with one hand.

Most other types of gate latches assume a gate that swings open, which obviously wouldn't help here.

Any suggestions for a way to keep a sliding gate like this securely closed?


texts: Can I convert a wall lamp into a usb socket?

texts:
I've recently moved house, and there is a wall lamp, see picture, which we never use, and i was wondering if i could put a usb socket there instead so i could charge bike lights and similar accessories.

Is this possible? Safe? Stupid? I have no clue, so any help would be appreciated.


texts: Should we install beadboard paneling or countertop first?

texts: We are planning to install bead board paneling to our kitchen back splash, and new Formica for the counter tops.  Which product should be installed first, and why?


texts: Can a transfer switch be powered by two separate generators?

texts:
I have two portable generators, a Honda 2000W and a cheaper Pulsar 2000W as a backup.  They're very similar in terms of overall construction, and I wanted to see if I could combine them to power our home in an emergency where 1650 operating watts just isn't enough.  I'm not interested in powering any 30A devices, and my Honda is already successfully connected to our transfer switch via a 120V connector to a 30A F connector with the two hots jumped together, plugging into the 30A inlet on the side of the house.  There's just a question as to whether we can add more capacity to the hookup.  Enter the Pulsar.  I'm thinking of a 30A connector connecting each hot into one of two 120V male connectors that plug into either the same generator or to separate ones depending on need. I think the Reliance transfer switch is configured to run 3 breakers from each hot connection, ergo why Reliance suggests you balance the load as best as possible when selecting which 6 circuits you plan to operate.

I don't think it's necessary to sync phases on the load since each generator would connect to a separate hot line, but they would share the neutral and ground connection on the twist lock.  Has anyone done this before?


texts: Switches and outlets not working after short to ground

texts:
I was replacing a outdoor GFI when putting back in box the ground touched the lower unused terminal and fried the ground, shorted GFI out. Now I have some switches in the house that do not work mainly on off switches and 2 standard outlets. No breakers are tripped?

All other GFI's in house work, What might I check next? I have not tried a new outdoor GFI yet.


texts: Connect the heater boiler through a relay instead of direct to the thermostat

texts:
I am wiring up a new thermostat for an old boiler, and the thermostat I am using needs a common wire (Proliphix NT130h -- I wanted an NT1X0e series, which use PoE and don't need C, but they are no longer available).

The system uses a Honeywell "aquastat" controller that has an integrated transformer hooked up to Rh and W, so there's no way to add a common C to that transformer (short of what this guy did with taking apart the control unit and soldering a wire to the back of the board).

Here's what it looks like (though this is a much newer model, it looks pretty much the same):

Luckily, I have an additional 24VAC transformer right next to the boiler that I can use (it was meant to be used to power the thermostat for an air conditioning unit, but that unit was never installed, only the thermostat power and wires.
I know that I can theoretically use that transformer to power the thermostat by hooking it up to Rc and C. However, the installation manual notes that C must be in phase with Rh, which is not the case in my installation which has C in phase with Rc.

Since I don't think it will work to use only a single wire from the transformer (even though the manual says "in phase", I assume that it actually means "complete circuit"), I am trying to figure out another way to do this.

What I would like to do is hook up the heat through a relay.
That way, I can send power to the thermostat without needing separate Rh and Rc (in fact, since there is no AC, without needing Rc at all).

As I envision it, when the thermostat calls for heat, it will connect Rh to W which will connect the trigger side of the relay, which will close the circuit on the heater wires that used to go to Rh and W.

I have two concerns:

Is there any special relay I need, or will anything I find designed for low voltage work?
Do I need to worry that either side of the relay won't have enough of a load on it, possibly causing the equivalent of a short circuit on either of the transformers?


texts: Can Tongue and Groove plywood be used if interior walls already in place

texts:
can Tongue and Groove plywood be used for installing a new sub-floor when there are walls already in place? (i.e. an existing home in use, not a new construction)

In other words: I've been told that T&G can only be used IF walls are not already in existence. Such as building a new home OR removal of all interior walls first, such as in a major re-model job.

But I just want to replace a bedroom floor area in a home with walls still in place.

As I re-read the comments, I'm seeing that everyone is referring to the actual top layer of flooring you walk on. I'm not talking about that at all. I'm talking about adding new "sub" flooring over the floor joists T&G "plywood sheathing".


texts: How to quickly add soap to counter soap dispenser?

texts: I've got granite counters with your basic top mounted soap dispenser.  It really takes a half hour to get all of the soap into it.  Unscrewing it is a HUGE pain and is faster but messy.  Any way to make this process quicker?


texts: what would happen if I don't put a finish on my new computer desk?

texts:
I just got this to make a computer desk, it is made of bamboo and it is 74in x 40in x 1.5in

I added a keyboard tray under it so my keyboard+mouse are not on top of it

Since it is big I might, on some occasion, put plate or bowl (to eat) while watching a video. I see this scenario as the only case where it would be good to have a finish.

Otherwise it would only hold monitor/phone/paper/pen/etc.

If I have to put a finish I want to do something easy / fast since I have no tool and I can't easily move it outside or properly sand it or put some "semi-toxic-product"

So, what could happen if I don't finish it and if I need to put a finish on it, what is the easiest method and which product?


texts:
Our home was built with a dirt crawl space that is about 2' from ground to bottom of floor joist. The floors are insulated with fiberglass held up (where it hasn't fallen down) with wire rods. The AC/heating duct runs through the crawl space and has insulation that looks worn out. There are vents all around the perimeter thru the concrete blocks.

Have had trouble for years with dampness in the crawl space. A few months ago after it had rained for about a week I was under the house and it was so damp it was dripping from some of the floor fiberglass. Also, the AC ducts always drip in the summer.

Currently I have a fan running all summer long to help keep it dry down there.

I'm considering encapsulating the crawl space thinking this should solve the moisture problem. From what I've read it should also eliminate the need to rehang all the fiberglass that keeps falling down, as well as eliminate the need to redo the duct insulation.

Would like to hear from someone who has done this before as to how it turned out.

Update, 10/3/13: Just want to thank littleturtle not only for your comprehensive info on this but your cited source.  I read through it last night and am still trying to digest it. But one thing I picked up on was that you don't have to vent the crawl space to the inside of the house to exchange air. That's what seems best for me because I'm thinking that during the winter I'd have to pay to heat the crawlspace, and heating KWHs are expensive. Incidentally, I'm near Charleston, S.C. (Zone 3) where the cooling cost exceeds the heating cost and the humidity is typically high. Anyway, I'm going to keep plugging along on this topic until I get a good feeling about doing it, or not. I'm retired and have time to think this through carefully.

Update, 11/14/13: Have decided not to encapsulate for now. Why? Doesn't make sense to spend thousands of dollars when the little box fan seems to work okay. In other words, running a box fan in the crawl space all summer does an adequate job of removing the condensation, at a low cost. Keep in mind that there has never been a problem with the dampness actually rotting any of the floor joists, or sill plate. Since the condensation is the only problem, other than that the insulation keeps falling down (another story), it just doesn't seem necessary or smart to spend that kind of money. If, on the other hand, there was ample evidence that there was a payback from the reduction in the KWH used for heating and cooling, then I would do it.

Update, 4/17/14: After further research I became convinced that I should seal the vents in the crawlspace. So, that's what I did. Now I'm monitoring both the temperature and humidity down there with a handy-dandy display in my den. Something I'm also thinking about is using the cooler air down there to cool the house. It stays in the 60's (since February) down there. Depending on the temperature this summer, I may devise a method to exchange air to cool the first floor next year.


texts: Brown, yellow, and orange wires in a wall switch

texts:
I understand that:

Black wire = hot
White wire = neutral
Green wire = ground

In the wall switch in my condo, there are 2 switches, one with red/brown wire, the other with yellow/yellow/orange wires. Can someone help explain what these colors mean?


texts: Can I connect a 12/2 wire to a 10/2 wire to operate garage openers?

texts: I already have 600V 10/2 Wire with ground into my first garage.  It is not connected to the electrical breaker yet. I would like to use it to operate my two garage doors and a few plugs. Am I able to connect the two and what size breaker should I use?


texts: Plastering: Solutions to a cornice that has fallen off

texts:
I went into a room today and saw that this had happened to the cornice.

I have no plastering experience but some general DIY experience. Is it feasible to plaster it oneself, and if so what tools should I use?

I am also interested to know what would cause this sort of thing to happen. Is there a risk that it could happen again?

What would happen if I just left that area unplastered for 4 months? The reason I ask is that this house is being renovated in 4 months anyway, and so it would be convenient if I could leave things until then.


texts: I have a GE side by side and the freezer is working fine, but the refrigerator is not cooling (not hot kind og like room temperature). I replaced the relay switch how long before I know if that was the issue.


texts: Condo fan coil thermostat fan never turns off, cooling is humid

texts:
My thermostat in my condo is a honeywell thermostat and it the only options it has are System and Fan. Fan is set to auto (other option is Lo Med Hi) and the System is set to Cool (or Auto or Off). When it reaches the desired temperature it does not turn off the fan but instead turns it down to Lo speed but keeps running. I notice that at this point it pumps humid air into the unit so my only options are to make it freezing cold so it never turns off cooling or to turn it off completely from fuse. Otherwise it will be humid 24/7. Should note that when System is set to OFF the fan is still running at Lo unless you pull the fuse. How can I fix this?

The tray is empty and not filled with water (someone told me that it could be humid because water isnt draining), the fan coils are dirty but it just looks some a bit of dust (this problem existed for the past 2 years and the fan coil is 2 years old so if it was a dust problem it wouldn't have existed earlier too.)

Furthermore it appears that the A/C is too big for the unit since it can get it from 30 down to 20 in 30 mins or less and constantly turns off cooling when it reaches the temp you set it too very fast.

EDIT: Added images

Keep in mind in the first image R and RC have this metal loop connecting them and the wire is in RC.


texts:
I have a Roman Tub at my home and want to attach a shower to it. My plan was to find an adaptor that could attach to the roman tub faucet and connect with a shower diverter, attach and mount handheld shower to the wall. I haven't had any luck finding an adaptor at Home Depot or via research online.
It makes me think either this is impossible (which is hard to believe - there must be a hacky solution to it haha) OR I'm looking at this the wrong way. I'll be meeting w/plumbers next week.

I've attached a few images too. What would the best option be?
Please advise!


texts: Can you re-shape an internal brick wall feature?

texts:
We have a horrible 70s style brick feature in our living room which eats into the room space and really dates the room. My OH is reluctant to remove it. There is a gas fire installed into the brick work and we suspect the gas fire in the dining room shares pipes with the one in the living room. What I'd like to do is at least re-shape (and maybe paint) the brick feature in the lounge from an upside down triangle _/ to a more rectangular |_| look.

Is it possible to cut bricks away from a feature like this and how would I do this?

All help much appreciated - Thanks


texts: What is the recommended post cap or strapping for corner post under beam and rim joists?

texts:
I'm trying to find the appropriate strapping to secure a beam to a post, while providing a means to attach a double rim-joist. Consider the drawings below:

In both of these drawings if I use a post cap to attach the beam to the post, the metal of the cap interferes with the joist hangers I would use on the rim joists. In the left-hand drawing I can attach half of the rim joist directly to the front of the beam while sitting it on the post, since the beam only needs 3.5" of support. But how would I attach the second half of the rim joist so that it is 'hanging' from the beam?

What is the correct method for securing the beam to the post, while allowing for the rim joist to be secured to the beam?

I need to hang the joists off the beam - I cannot set them on top. I am hoping to not have to set-back the beam; I want it centred under the corner as shown.


texts: Unfinished basement in Georgia townhome; would vapor barrier on interior trap moisture?

texts:
I have a town house that is a middle unit on a slab. The back wall is above grade, with exterior windows and door.  The sidewalls abut adjacent units, so there is no wall in contact with soil for the area in question.

One room is finished.  Another is unfinished with 10' ceilings, exposed 6" studs and fiberglass insulation.  The insulation is Kraft faced on the outside. The walls have OSB sheathing, and on the exterior wall there is (I think) Tyvec wrap then brick veneer.

I want to use the unfinished area for projects and would like a barrier to keep glass wool and dust from raining down.

Would 6mil clear plastic barrier create moisture issues?  If so, what's a better choice for easy and inexpensive dust protection for a space with exposed fiberglass insulation?


texts: Can I short live Rc and Rh terminals together as R?

texts: I have separated HVAC system with 24V on Rc and Heating system with 24V on Rh. The nest thermostat 2020 has only R terminal. The voltage difference between Rc and RH is about 2V. Can I short Rc and Rh together, put into R terminal?


texts: Found a Crack in Subfloor when Removing Old Tile

texts: I was removing old tile from my kitchen and found the crack seen in the pictures. I was wondering how big a deal the crack was and how to proceed with trying to lay new tile. I wanted to knock out more of the thinset mortar left around it, but I was afraid I might make the crack worse. Any advice on how to go forward?


texts: Should I apply car wax to the outside of my air conditioning unit?

texts: Through different conversations with family members and friends, I have been told that it is good to apply a coat of car wax to the outside of the air conditioning unit frame. I assume that this is to maintain a protective seal and prevent corrosion. Has anyone done this before? I just bought a new Trane XR15 unit in April and I want to keep it in tip-top shape for as long as possible.


texts: Can I move the range hood but not the roof vent (angled "flue" pipe)?

texts:
I have a typical 30" stove installed in the center of a 20' wall with a standard overhead hood that looks a lot like this.

I want to redesign my kitchen with new cabinets so the stove becomes corner mounted (45 angle) which means moving the stove about 9 feet along the wall (towards the center of the house) into the corner so it would look like this.

Is there any reason other than maybe local (Los Angeles County) codes (I haven't checked yet) that I couldn't or shouldn't reroute the hood ("flue" ?) pipe at an angle so it meets the existing roof vent from the new "starting" position instead of a straight vertical pipe?


texts: Why is my fridge building ice on the outside but not getting cold inside?

texts:
My fridge is getting cold enough to quickly produce huge amounts of ice (see picture below) despite being fully defrosted (I used a heat gun) but it can't get below 50° F.  Does it matter that all the ice is concentrated on one side/corner and not over the rest of the coils?

If it matters, I spent a solid 2 hours last night fully unclogging a horribly clogged drain hole. I also put an additional fan inside the fridge, trying to circulate more cold air, but it didn't seem to do much.

Does having ice mean my compressor is working? Could it be an issue with my evaporator?  Would  love ideas of things to check!

Edit: my Fridge uses R134A


texts: Remodel Planning - working with or fixing present issues

texts:
I own a house in the PacNW, and am starting to plan out a fairly extensive remodel. The house has issues, however, that I want to fix or work around, and I am trying to get an idea of how extensive the demo will be.

Issue #1 is that the house was built in 1942, and structurally does not meet current code. It is 2 story with full basement, and the 2nd floor floor joists are rough cut 2x6 with approx a 16 foot span, 16" OC. I know that doesn't meet code on span alone, so this is issue #1 I am trying to work with.  Issue #1.5 is that those same floor joists are not square cut where they rest on the exterior walls, they are cut at a 45 degree angle (roof is 12/12). Diagram:

Issue #2 I have is that there is no sill plate on top of the concrete foundation wall, the 2 x 10 rough cut 1st floor joists (and rim board) are resting directly on top of the concrete foundation.  The joists look like they were placed when the concrete was slightly still wet, as they sank into the concrete a bit before it set up, so they have a sort of a pocket they rest in, but there is no treated lumber in between them and the concrete.  From looking at (and poking at) the joist ends I can see in the basement, there seems to be no rot, but I would like to earthquake retrofit the house (go Cascadia fault!) and add a treated sill plate connected to the foundation wall with appropriate fasteners.

The house did not have a 2nd floor when it was built, I think, and was added later in a remodel of the attic space.  The house was last remodeled in the early 1970s, from what I can tell, and I bought it as an estate sale for a third of the prevailing market price of the houses around it.

For fixing issue #1, will that require new joists to meet code? or can I sister LVL or I beam joists? Total rebuild of the 2nd floor from the joists on up?

For issue #2, can I bring in a contractor to cut the concrete wall such that I can slide a new treated sill plate in and fasten the existing structure to that new piece?  Has anyone heard of that being done before?

I am going to bring over a structural engineer in March to take a look, after I graduate college, and give me an educated opinion, but I would like to put out feelers here and see if I can get some educated guesses for what I am looking at.


texts: How can I lower wall cabinets after fitting drywall?

texts:
Before fitting a drywall, I measured 12cm from the ceiling and fitted battens (wall studs) across the length of the room to support wall cabinets.

I didn't leave enough room - the wall cabinets are now too high.

Does anything exist such as a metal piece that will act as a lowering mechanism to keep the existing support at the 12cm but allow the cupboard to hang lower e.g. at 24cm from the ceiling. I'm imagining a piece of metal that hooks to both the wall fixture and the cupboard but I'm not sure if it exists.

The battens are 1.5 inches because I needed to bring it in front of some pipes.

Also open to other suggestions.


texts: Will my wooden bridge withstand the weight of my small truck?

texts:
I am building a bridge across a small stream. I have 3 hemlock planks that are 24 feet long, and are 6 inches by 4 inches in dimension. The hemlock planks are positioned so that the 6 inch sides are vertical, and the 4 inch sides are horizontal.
The 3 hemlock beams are resting on the sides of the river bank. There are no supports in the middle for the planks. The beams overlap the banks of the stream by about 4 feet on either side, so there is 16 feet of unsupported beam crossing the stream.
I am putting 2x6 planking on top of the hemlock beams to complete the top-side of the bridge.
I want to calculate if I can drive my 1.5 ton ATV across the bridge. Will the hemlock beams support its weight, or will they crack when my ATV gets into the middle of the bridge?


texts: Is this flexible drain trap configuration acceptable?

texts:
I recently redid my entire bathroom (new to all of this), The sink we chose has a draw back we discovered late into the remodel...it has a non-removable drawer that sits almost level with the drain leading into the wall.

I had to come up with a somewhat creative design to allow a p-trap to be implemented. I am a beginner and not sure if this design works. I can run the faucet for minutes at a time and it does not leak. The p-trap appears to hold a large amount of water in it because of the large loop, but perhaps this isn't an issue at all.

Sorry if this seems basic but does this setup seem suitable?


texts: Egress window directly beneath electrical meter?

texts:
My house was built in 1973 and has a tiny basement window (single-pane aluminum frame) in a window well.  The utility electrical meter is on the same exterior wall, not directly over the basement window.
A few years ago I had some solar panels put on the roof, and they installed all of their meters and inverters right next to the utility electrical meter, so some of their equipment is now directly over the window well.

I'm considering upgrading the tiny window to an egress window, and I'm wondering if there's any way to do that and still meet code.
It looks like the National Electric Code 110.26(A) says I'm supposed to have 3' of space in front of the meters and inverters, but I can't find anything that talks about requirements for what the ground under that working space looks like.
Is the working space rule satisfied, if any workers have to stand on the grate on the top of my egress window well in order to access the equipment?
I emailed my county planning department and they said "Your proposed grate or cover over the window well shall NOT encroach on these requirements for the any electric devices."  That sentence is a little convoluted so I'm not 100% sure, but I think he's saying that I can't do what I want to do?


texts: What should I do about this possible mold I found under paint?

texts:
I live in Austin, Texas, which is important in that we don't receive much rain, and it's not very humid.

I was peeling paint off of the old drywall, and found what appears to be mold on the bottom of one of the exterior walls of my room. Some of it is beneath a window, but some is offset two feet or so on the other side of the same window.

Some of it coincides with what I believe to be old termite damage. It's clearly been patched, and the infestation is definitely inactive.

My suspicion is, since it's an old house, that there is no vapor barrier, and the mold is the result of condensation. I suppose it could also come from a leak in the window. The previous homeowner blew in insulation, and my understand is that without a vapor barrier, that can cause some condensation problems.

Is it worth it for me to just tear out the drywall, add a vapor barrier along just the one side of the room, and then insulate it? Or should I use some bleach to clean up the mold damage, cover it over with some Kilz, and paint?

The damage is clearly old -- probably around a decade. But now I'm thinking, well, I've got the paint off the wall, might as well. But I also have a tendency to take projects too far, so I could use a second opinion.


texts: Safe assembly of antique Italian four poster bed frame

texts:
I've assembled this bed frame and am not sure how to make it sturdy enough for use.
I have this 100+ year-old Italian bed frame that I've inherited from my parents. They used it for decades and it felt safe and sturdy growing up. Unfortunately they can't remember much about how it was assembled and I haven't been able to find any other info about the bed.
The construction is straightforward: the left/right sides have notches that fit into recesses in the posters flanking the front and rear sides of the frame; each notch is paired with a metal bolt that pushes into a hole next to the notched recess; the top is a single piece with holes at each corner which the four posters slot into.
I can get the notches to fit flush with the posters if I push hard enough, but the whole bed is shaky and comes loose easily when moved. There's nothing holding the pieces together besides the slightly loose notches and bolts. I was hoping the top piece would stabilize it but it did not help much. The remaining parts are particle boards and slats that sit along the shelves on the left/right sides – could placing these and adding the mattress make the difference somehow with the downwards force?
Besides specific solutions, I'm also interested in knowing how to seek expert help on safely assembling this (I live in Toronto if that's relevant). I also wonder if there are ways to reinforce it – like adding ratchet straps around the circumference until I can get it sturdy enough through other means.


texts: Can I directly add a Common wire to this point on a 24VAC transformer, or will load be too high? (70mA)

texts:
Referencing This excellent answer
I have a two wire furnace controller, 24VAC, no common. I measured the current draw of the relay (when the thermostat wires are shorted), it draws 0.2A
Wish to add an Ecobee Lite 3, which draws about 1.9 watts (just 80mA).
Am reasonably comfortable with general electrical/electronics. Have opened the control box, and located the "second" terminal of the 24VAC transformer, where one would tap a common wire.
Question: Is there any issue if I just directly solder a new common wire straight to the transformer and use that (+"R") to power the smart thermostat?  That would mean a draw of 280mA on a system rated for 200mA.  Is that likely to be an issue? Potential consequences? is the worst case scenario just the ecobee lite turning off / relay not having enough power to hold closed, or could it be something more problematic, like making the transformer fail?
I would tap the common wire at the location shown by the blue arrow in this image:


texts: What happens if the neutral is switched rather than the hot wire for a light?

texts: Power comes into the hole in the ceiling for a light fixture, but by-passes that and the neutral wire goes down to the switch, and the black wire then comes back up from the switch. What side effects (to the light, or to up-/down-stream, or nearby connections) would there be if that switch's black wire is attached to the neutral wire of the light, and the incoming/ceiling power neutral wire is attached to the black wire of the light?


texts: In my garage can a refrigerator and a separate deep freezer be plugged into the same outlet

texts:
Electrical
Can a refrigerator and a deep freezer in a garage be plugged into the same outlet


texts: What diameter threaded rod to brace crotch of tree with two 12" codominant stems

texts: Red maple tree has two codominant stems, each of them 12" in diameter. Would a 1" diameter rod suffice to brace the stems 12" above the crotch?


texts: What is the best way to strip woodchip wallpaper?

texts:
I spent a large proportion of a (glorious) Sunday stripping a relatively small area of woodchip wallpaper from my spare room in an ongoing war to banish the stuff from my house.

I have a good steamer which is helping matters along, but due to five layers of paint and the fact that paper is very waterproof its not been easy.

Does anyone have any tips on ways in which this process can be sped along? We're having the whole room skimmed when I'm done, so I'm unconcerned about the state of the plaster behind when I'm done. It's already in quite a mess anyway, hence the skimming!


texts: Home receptacles measure from 24 to 96 volts

texts:
I have a home that is about 14 years old so it is better than the knob-and-tube wiring in my last home.  However, there are no less than three receptacles in the house that couldn't be used as the outlets weren't dependable.  Today I tackled one.  I checked the voltage across the wires and it showed 96v which was odd.  I flipped every breaker and the voltage never changed.  On further inspection, I have 24V between ground and neutral, and 120V between ground and positive.

If someone, upstream, they crossed neutral and ground, that could cause something like this, but why 24V between neutral and ground and 96V between neutral and positive?  Can those voltages give further clues to what might have been done wrong?

Help please!
Lew


texts: Converting to a double switch but lost power to rest of circuit

texts:
When we put in a new bathroom fan we replaced the switch in the bathroom to put the fan/overhead light and the vanity light on different switches.  It was originally wired with a single pole switch where there is one hot wire, 3 travelers or load wires and a ground attached to the switch.  2 of the traveler or load wires are pigtailed together, so on the old switch one copper end hooked on to the screw and the other one was pushed in.

On the new single pole with two switches, there are enough screws on the load side for both of the load or traveler wires to attach to screws, and the hot and ground attach fine.

No matter which screw on the hot side I put the hot wire on the rest of the circuit (other lights in the house) only works when the fan is on.  The items in the bathroom work fine and independent of each other.

Any advice for whether we need to give up on the double switch?  Or whether we need to check the wiring in the fan?

Thanks for any suggestions!

I'm adding photos:


texts: Should I be concerned about respiratory hazard from leftover/lurking silica sand from abrasive blasting (sandblasting)?

texts: I know the media itself is a respiratory hazard while blasting (I'm told the silica sand itself breaks apart from the blasting and becomes dust-like). The area will be ventilated. However, I worry about whether this hazard will remain or spread, and for how long.  Would cleaning the area with large amounts of water help mitigate this issue?


texts: Realistically, could you build a useful built in closet in a space that is 77.5in x 9.4in?

texts:
I have a part of a wall in a room that is deeper than the rest of that wall and measures exactly 77.5 inches across and 9.4 inches deep (196.9 cm x 23.9 cm).

I would like to make that space a built in closet so that that "dead space" is made use of and the entire wall is perfectly flat rather than having a part that sticks in.

Realistically, is it feasible to build a built in closet in such a space?  If so, how should I build it to ensure it has a similar proportion of shelves, drawers, and hangers as a regular closet?

For example, I know I would not be able to hang clothing perpendicular to the wall as is customary with most closets, but couldn't I have a rod protruding from the back to hang clothing parallel to the wall?

This would be a closet for 2 people in our guest room.

Is this feasible or not recommended?


texts:
I'm trying to restore a piece of furniture that has sentimental value. It is currently stained with a very dark (mahogany?) color:

However, I would like to stain it a much lighter color (Maple, using Cabots). I assume that if I don't completely remove the existing stain then it's going to end up a hot mess. I'm finding it very difficult to remove the existing stain because it's not a professionally made piece of furniture, so it has a lot of nooks and crannies and I don't think the wood was well-sanded before it was originally stained, so there are lots of indentations and rough surfaces.

So far I've managed to achieve this state:

This was by using very course (40 grit) paper with orbital and detail sanders:

Can anyone offer advice to ensure I'm successful with this project? Specific questions include:

I will have to remove all existing stain, right? Is there some magic I'm not aware of that would make this more practical?
Can I improve my strip-back process? I feel like it's taken an awful long time to strip back even this one small part of the furniture, and it's still not completely done. My only plan of attack right now is 40 grit, then 80, then a very fine (120). I came to the realization today that I might have to do some parts by hand, which worries me.


texts:
I am having problem with my bedroom staying as cool as the rest of the house. I have just moved in and I looked at the HVAC in the garage and I could not find where the filter is.  The paper work that came with the system is basically the warranty  and schematics. So I have one larger return, maybe 2’ x 2’ in the main living area. I opened it and there is a filter.  It is brand new. I have another air intake in one of the bedrooms. I opened it and the picture attached is what is there. Is that a plug? Why is it there? Could this be causing that bedroom to not cool down?
Thanks in advance...

Also the vent above the door is above every door in the house but the bathroom. I have never seen this before either. It isn’t a register. It’s just a vent. The registers are all in the ceiling. I suppose that might be why the vents are above the door?? Help circulate the air? Because the intakes I have in The house have filters am I to assume there are no filters at the main unit in the garage?


texts: How to drill larger holes in cabinets for larger ice maker tubing but leave something to snake with?

texts: My plastic ice maker water hose broke and I decided to switch it to a stainless braided hose. The stainless braided hose needs a larger hole to pass through. While I have access to drill larger holes through the cabinets the tubing also passes behind a dishwasher and range. I'd rather not have to pull the dishwasher out so how can I drill a larger hole while still leaving something I can use to snake the new water line through?


texts: Can I somehow wire my generator to my power pole?

texts: I have a power pole that has a 200 amp breaker before it enters my house and a 30 amp (240) breaker for my well. Again, both are outside before the electricity enters my 200 amp house box. Is there a type of transfer switch that will work at the pole with my generator? Any help or ideas are much appreciated. I am obviously not an electrician so keep it simple. Thanks


texts: What's the best way to secure a top mount stainless steel sink, if the supplied clips don't work?

texts:
The clips under my kitchen sink are terrible.  It's impossible to get them tight, and as result it's hard to keep the top caulked, and I now have water damage.  The clips in question were from a Realtor special renovation, and look like:

The head goes into a track that's part of the sink:

I think it's called a U-Channel sink.

The problems include that the bottom screwdriver slot strips, the screws are hard to turn, and the tighter you get them the more the entire thing wants to tilt away from vertical.  I've tried to get this right a half dozen times, and the best I do is get half the clips to actually bite.


texts: Can I run conduit in an open ceiling on top of the bottom part of the rafters in a commercial building?

texts: Wiring an old pole barn to be used as a commercial building


texts: Need advice on how to make a projector screen fit into an area

texts:
We have a projector screen that can easily be lowered or raised electronically, whose top support is 113" wide, and whose physical edges are each 3 and half inches inset from the sides, so the screen itself is actually 106 inches across.  The screen requires fastening at the back to something sturdy at the extreme ends of the 113" long support, and I was hoping to hang it from the valence immediately in front of our balcony window, the valence being 114 inches wide.   On the left side of the valence is a fireplace, however, and positioned at a 45 degree angle it has a beautiful mantle that is about 5 feet up but whose corner extends about 8 inches into the area underneath the front of the valence.   The living area extends into another room on the right of the valence.  If the screen is center mounted directly on the valence, however,  then it can only be lowered about halfway before it hits the fireplace mantle, failing to clear the mantle by only about four inches.  The living area extends into another room on the right of the valence.

We have, as I see it, two options other than tossing the projector screen idea entirely.

The first option is to buy a 2x4 the width of the screen, and attach it to the valence so that it is offset slightly to the right.  Because the 2x4 would be positioning the screen an inch an a half from the valence, we would only need to push the screen two and a half inches to the right.  This would extend the screen into the adjacent room on the right but only by two and a half inches athough The screen itself sound still be entirely in the room.  It would not be centred on the valence however, and with its top extending into the next room, I fear that would look peculiar.

The other solution involves securing a 2x4 to the ceiling instead of the valence and having the screen pushed away from the valence by about 4 inches so that it can be centered on the valence, and mounted onto the side of the 2x4.  However, because the screen needs a minimum vertical clearance above its mounting points of about 3 inches this would require additional space between the 2x4 and the ceiling,  making attachment nontrivial. I am concerned if I attempt this myself, it will also look bad, but I also fear that I would not be able to afford the services of a professional that could make it look nice.  In fact,  I don't even know where to begin to inquire for such services or anyone that might know.

Obviously, I would like to minimize my costs, but I desperately need some advice from somebody with a bit of experience in home improvement.

I can take some pictures later tonight if it will help, but I hope that I have described the situation accurately enoug that at least a general idea has been conveyed.


texts: What are steps to take to resolve a frequently clogging toilet?

texts:
Here's the situation:
Conventional toilet flushes liquids with some TP just fine.  Everything works and looks exactly as expected.  It flushes effectively with a nice swirl.
But when someone makes magic happen, resulting in solids in the toilet, it requires aggressive plunging more than half the time.  After plunging, it works fine until someone makes magic happen again, at which time it usually requires more plunging.
Once it is plunged, the flushing looks completely normal again.  There is no "slow flush" indicating an obstruction in the drain line.  Sinks on the same drain line work as expected without any clogs.
The toilet and pipes are all about 15 years old and have had consistent, but moderate, use.  This problem has only been going on for about a year.
I have done some research, and many sites recommend a "main line cleaner" like Green Gobbler.  Given that after plunging, the toilet drains fine, I'm not sure if such a cleaner will actually help.  After all, there does not seem to be a large obstruction.  Also, with over 15 meters/yards of drain line, it seems questionable if even a gallon of such a substance would make sufficient contact with enough of the pipe for a long enough duration to have a significant effect.
How does I proceed to resolve this issue?


texts: I need to do work with muriatic acid and was wondering if storing the waste (12 Oz of acid per gallon of water) is okay to do in a regular plastic 5 gal bucket. My concern is whether the acid could melt the plastic then spill out. Should I get a metal bucket just in case?


texts: Drop in kitchen sink to replace an under mount

texts:
I'm looking to replace our current stainless steel under mount kitchen sink with a drop in cast iron.

The current sink is 22 x 33 as is the new installed sink (22 x 33).
In order to remove the existing sink, the bull nose tiles on all four sides of the current sink need to be removed (there are no claps under the current sink to be removed to assist with taking it out).

I can remove the tiles easily, as that is not the issue.  However, in order to put in the new sink there will be an inch excess gap on all four sides of the sink - where they bull nose tiles are.
Do I have to retile all four sides in order to place the new sink in?
Is there an alternative way to by pass re-tiling prior to installing the new sink (plywood strips), etc.?

Any ideas and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Our kitchen countertops are in pristine condition and we would like to keep them in tact.

As well, we are in love with the new sink and replacing it with a different one is not what we are considering.


texts: Cutting a 4.5m long 2x6 in half with a circular saw

texts:
My question is about cutting 2x6 boards in half with a circular saw ("Skil"-saw). Now, I've looked around, and there are many sites describing how to cut off a small piece from a larger piece, the latter you want to keep. Most of them point out that you want to clamp the longer piece to a table or a sawhorse and let the small piece drop, to avoid the piece buckling down on the saw as the cut progresses, causing it to catch and kick back.

Fair enough.

However, I would like to cut a rather long piece (4.5m, or about 15') in half right in the middle, and keep both ends. I haven't seen anything that addresses this type of situation. I can't imagine I'll be able to keep half of that long piece floating in mid air, probably ripping the wood as the cut advances and less material is left between the two parts. On the other hand, if I hold it with a support, how do I avoid the weight of the saw from causing the cut to buckle in?


texts: How can I attach a shelf to a tile wall in a repairable manner?

texts:
I am renting a flat and have permission from the landlord to put up shelves etc as long as "I don't wreck the place".

In the kitchen there is a lack of storage space, and a large blank tiled wall above the sink and worktop. I would like to make use of this space for storage using a couple of shallow shelves.

What is the best way to attach shelves to a tiled wall in a way that can be easily repaired with minimal noticeable damage?

The wall behind the tiles is brick, so will take screws very well. The tiles are ceramic, but not glazed, so will not take any kind of suction cup.


texts: I have a 60 year old house and the original hardwood floors have been covered for at least 25 years and the slats are cupped with the edges of each slat being higher than the center of the slat. What is the best way to sand these floors smooth so that i may put either another layer of hard woods or vinyl slats over the top of these existing floors?


texts:
I'm installing a Zephyr AK6500 range hood. The kitchen is on the first floor a 2 story home, which was built in 1967.  I've run 6 in. round ductwork in a joist bay in the kitchen ceiling to the exterior. I still need to cut the hole in the siding and install the wall cap.

The joist bay is perpendicular to the band joist.

My concern is that I will have to cut a 6 in. hole in the band joist to attach the wall cap. Is that size hole okay?

I can't reinforce the band joist from the interior as the cabinets are already up.


texts: Is my 4-way switch replacement job safe and up to code?

texts:
I recently replaced a 4-way light switch setup with a smart dimmer setup (GE Enbrighten 14294 and GE Add-On 12723) and wanted to check wanted to check that everything I did was safe and up to code (Georgia, USA).

The original setup was wired like this (I think.  It didn't occur to me to take a picture at the time):

When I replaced the switches, I wired it like this:

Everything works perfectly.  I just wanted to make sure I'm not going to burn my house down.  There are a couple things that jumped out at me:

The ground wire isn't connected to the 4-way switch.  It wasn't in the original configuration either, and it's crimped and cut too short to reach the terminal.  Now that I'm using a smart switch with a neutral connection, is it dangerous to not have a ground connection?
Is using the red wire as the traveler appropriate?  I know code is sometimes strict about what colors can be used for what purpose.
The black wire is still there, but no longer connected to anything.  I've capped it off with wire nuts, but is there anything else I need to do?