texts: Installing Leviton Smart Switches on 4-way Circuit

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I have a 4 way circuit as shown in the the picture below.
Power comes in to the light's box and goes to the switch from there.

Can I use the DW6HD and two of the DD00R in this configuration?
Below is the wiring diagram from Leviton, it just doesn't show how to wire the switches when the Line wire starts at the light and is also the Load (not sure if saying that proper):

I believe with the wires I have now it won't work and I need to have a new 14-3 wire installed from the light to the switch labeled Top Stairs?  After that it should work?


texts: What is the black adhesive being applied between the veneer bricks?

texts: What is the black stuff being applied in the last photo?


texts:
I removed the drop ceiling from my basement, the next step would be to paint the concrete ceiling.

However, as you can see from the picture, there are pieces of wood on the surface of the concrete. I tried to sand the surface to remove them and up to a certain point it seems to be working, but some larger chunks are somewhat deeply embedded into the concrete and sanding will not work.

My question is, do I need to remove that wood? If I simply paint if over (multiple layers of sealer + paint, I presume), will it peel off? If it would be to completely remove the wood, any suggestions on how to do that? Or would it be smart to apply some sort of putty patches to cover the wood, or would those too fall offd? I don't mind about the uneven surface or rough look.

Thanks for any hints or advices!

UPDATE

For those who may encounter the same problem:
What I've done is the following: after lots and lots of asking around and researching, the finding was that it is probably best to remove as much as possible from the wood (not only the sawdust). But sanding it is not an option, since it's simply not efficient plus it creates a ridiculous amount of dust. So the winning tool was the wire brush + chisel combination, plus mortar on top of it. It's tedious, but once it's done and after the appropriate waiting time you have the paint on it, you're glad you did it.


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We purchased a house built in the 60's about a month ago.  Had a general inspection done prior to going to contract and was told that there were no red flags seen regarding Asbestos.

Insulation: Layer of Balsam Wool with Blown in Cellulose
Walls: Sheetrock
Floors: Oak
Siding: Vinyl
Roof: Asphalt
Ceiling is flat sheetrock
Plumbing is Copper or Pex
HVAC is updated

We had some electrical work done to add high hats, outlets and switches replaced etc. Few older windows replaced and was waiting to paint. We did a thorough cleaning and moved our stuff in so we could be settled for Christmas.

Everything was great until we decided to run an air test in the house after the mess of Cellulose falling from the high hats.  The inspector took a few other wall samples around the house while they were exposed.

The two PCM Air Samples taken came back at <.003 fibers per cubic cm and .005 cubic cm.  Sheetrock came back clear but of the samples of Spackle one was 3% and 2 others 1.5%. which was devastating to hear.  Neither of us have heard of Spackle containing Asbestos before researching more about it online.

We have two small children and my wife is destroyed to hear that our dream house has become a nightmare.  She is staying at her parents with the kids until we figure out what we're going to do.  I realize the air samples are well below what is considered safe but even the slight presence and knowing that the spackle contains Asbestos is a big problem.

I just want to clear the house out, and have the walls and ceilings abated professionally down to the studs.  My wife seems to think that could make things worse by releasing additional fibers.  Air samples only need to come back at .01 fiber/cm3 to deem the house safe. The abatement company could just do all the work and say well this is what we guarantee.

At the same time I wouldn't mind fixing a few issues with pillowing ceilings and under insulated walls.  Redo the Master Bath and update the built ins.

I'm afraid that if we leave it - regardless of it being undisturbed or not, we'll always know it's there and every time we go to hang a picture or put a shelf up etc it'll be like a bad penny.   We plan on living at this house for a long time.

I need some guidance and direction!   Thank You.


texts: Replacing electric cooktop (40 amps) with induction range (50 amps)

texts: We are remodeling the kitchen in our new condo (haven't moved in yet).  We would like to use a Wolf induction range which says it requires a dedicated 50 amps.  Our current GE electric cooktop is listed as being on a"double 40amp" breaker.  Can we use the Wolf range instead?


texts: How can I fix a floor joist that has separated from the cross beam?

texts: I have just 1 beam that is no longer in the notch that is supposed to rest in on the crossbeam. The house is 100 years old. Would it be a safe option to install a floor jack to bring the beam back up to where it had been? The floor is bouncy due to this. The joist is in an area where there is a lot of foot traffic.


texts: Contractor cut wire in wall - all still works fine - is this dangerous?

texts: A contractor who is not an electrician tried to be "helpful" and opened an outlet box (and other nearby boxes that were drawing the same power) that wasn't working to try and fix it. He changed some connections, added a wire, and also cut a wire. He ended up getting power to the broken outlet, however his "fix" ended up blowing a different circuit and we lost power in an adjoining room. I had a real electrician come in - he said the contractor had added an unnecessary wire which he removed, and he also said the contractor had connected a ground and Hotwire. (He said they were the same color so it may have been confusing). So now all of the outlets, at least in the two rooms that were seemingly effected, are working and the fuses are fine. He can't figure out what the cut wire goes to so he just capped it off. he said there was no danger from having this cut wire in the wall - he said since my walls are concrete I won't have an electrical Fire even if that wire did overheat. He said if it was resting a short somewhere then a fuse would blow. He said since it appears everything is working now it is hard to figure out what that wire was for. Does this all sound right and I should just not worry about it? Or do I need to start tearing down walls to figure out where the cut wire came from?


texts: How can I install drywall that has warped from improper storage?

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I have 90 sheets of drywall that I stored for a couple of months against a wall.  The warp is minimal but noticeable.  I tried hanging a sheet on a wall.  The nails pulled through in the middle where the drywall is bowed.
I have laid the 90 sheets flat on the ground on top of each other.
I assume that eventually the sheets will flatten out but I am anxious to get them hung.
Any thoughts?


texts: Do I need to prepare old pipe to install a compression fitting?

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I bought a new multi-turn valve to replace a really old one.

The new one has a compression fitting where the old one is soldered. My plan is to use a pipe cutter just below the soldered joint. I'm not soldering or using sharkbite hardware. Here's a pic:

Do I need to prepare the surface of the pipe where the new compression fitting will be sitting to avoid a leak?


texts: How thoroughly should I scrape paint from cement basement wall before insulating?

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I'm going to finish one corner of my basement and want to insulate the two adjoining exterior walls so that the space will stay warm in the winter. The wall was painted a few years ago and the paint is peeling in places. I plan to scrape these sections to ensure the adhesive sticks well when I add XPS insulation boards. My intent is that the XPS insulation act as a vapor barrier.

Is it necessary to scrape away all of the paint, or will removing the loose flakes be sufficient?

After the insulation I'll add a stud wall right against the XPS, with batt insulation in between the studs, and drywall over that.

The home is 100 years old but a poured foundation was added at a later date. It is a shallow basement with no drains. We've had a wet winter but this corner has stayed dry (some seepage in another area due to an ice dam outside which I remedied).


texts: furnace high limit switch measure 74-96 ohm, is it bad?

texts: continue last question, I am struggling with the Carrier furnace, repairing almost 1 month by myself.Now I find the high-limit switch has problem. I measure the high-limit switch is jumping between 23-96 ohm. May I judge it bad ?? I watch the video class that  high-limit switch is 0 ohm that is good.


texts: Where is the ledger supposed to attach to the rim joist?

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If you look at the pic there's a gap right under the door way, about 5 inches deep and high. The rim joist of the house is halfway behind the brick and the other half is exposed right under the door.

Can I just fill in the gap with say a 6x6 post and secure that to the rim joist, then attach my ledger board to that and through the brick veneer? Would that be an acceptable method of securing the ledger or are there any other options? Otherwise, I am considering a free-standing deck.


texts: Grounding through the earth pin on a 3-pin power plug

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I want to ground some equipment that has only a 2-wire cord.

Is it safe to make a cable that has a wire connected to the earth pin of a 3-pin plug and use that as a grounding strap?

(This is NZ, but I guess the same would apply in most electrical codes).


texts: How Do I Adjust the Depth of an Octagonal Junction Box?

texts: The junction box for a wall mounted light will be 1/4 in. shy of the finished drywall. The house is 50 yrs old. How do I adjust the depth of the octagonal junction box? Is there a safe way to shim or extend it? I've seen some octagonal box extenders online, but they didn't appear to be adjustable.


texts: Configuring a plug-on-neutral breaker panel as a subpanel

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I recently learned about a new species of breaker panel known as the "plug-on-neutral" design. All the major load center manufacturers seem to be making these now. The idea is to provide a neutral bar at a fixed distance on each side of the bus bars, so specially-designed AFCI or GFCI breakers can plug directly onto the bus bar and the neutral bar without requiring a pigtail connection. Here's a picture from a catalog:

The extra-long breakers in the middle are the AFCI ones which snap directly onto the neutral bar. Very clever!
But I'm confused about how this panel could be configured as a subpanel. In the picture the two neutral bars are clearly connected (somehow, where is the bonding strap?) and they are connecting both neutrals and grounds to both. In a subpanel, the neutrals and grounds must be separated.
Does this mean one of those bars must be separated from the neutral somehow, in which case the fancy plug-on breakers would be limited to one side of the panel? Or can they both be isolated and a separate ground bar installed (how?)
It seems like it would be a waste if only one side could take advantage of the plug-on AFCI/GFCI, since almost every room requires one or the other now.


texts: Cold water through hot water faucet only when cold water faucet is turned on

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A few faucets in my house aren't getting any hot water. Kitchen sink and upstairs bathroom (directly above kitchen) don't get any hot water. Cold works fine.  Nothing comes out if I turn on the hot water. The other bathrooms and sinks in the house are getting hot water normally.

The odd thing is that I can cold water to flow through all the hot water faucets that don't work if I turn on the cold water faucet in the kitchen. If I turn off the cold water faucet in the kitchen, cold water continues to come out of the hot water faucet in the kitchen for a few minutes until it goes back to a drip. All of the hot water faucets upstairs stop immediately. Turn on the cold in the kitchen, cold water comes out of the hot water faucets upstairs.

Why does this happen? I'm assuming it has something to do with the subzero temps in NJ the last few nights but I can't figure out why some water, just not hot water will flow through those faucets. Any ideas would be appreciated.


texts: Does adjusting the body of a irrigation sprinkler to orient one side of the sweep cause a leak at the sprinkler unit?

texts: Some irrigation sprinklers say to orient the sprinkler body in such a way as to set one side of the sweep, rotating the sprinkler body if that edge of spray is out of line (Example Video). This fundamentally would unscrew the sprinkler from the lead line if rotating CCW. How does this not cause the sprinkler to leak??


texts: Hardwood floors maintaining a stubborn stain or mark after drum sanding

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Working on a 1920 built house in Southeastern PA and having a hard time getting the hardwood floors to bring these dark spots out, visible below:

It sort of looks as though a throw rug was tossed down many years ago and for a very long time. I've sanded a particular spot repeatedly and can't get the mark to go away. I just as quickly assume it's there forever, which is OK, as there are ways around it. But I figured I'd ask here first what the problem could be.


texts: Can I use construction adhesive on these fake rocks?

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Our fireplace has fake rocks made of some kind of foam and mortar. We are installing a mantle, and want to use construction adhesive and bolts to anchor it.
What are the “rocks” made of? Will the solvents in the construction adhesive mess with it?


texts: Should I be concerned that the furnace fan is making a loud noise when it turns on?

texts:
About three weeks ago our 10 year furnace's blower motor (which also blows for the AC) died (the bearing seized). HVAC company comes out, removes the squirrel cage and motor, puts a new motor (with a different motor brand/model) on the same squirrel cage, and re-installs it. It's fine for a day or two, but now there's a noise when the fan kicks on.

Best way I can describe it is that it sounds like a loud electrical buzzing (almost like a buzzer on a dryer, even). The noise disappears after about 3 seconds, but occasionally if you stand near one of the return registers, the fan sounds makes a rhythmic tapping -very- much like a diesel engine on a truck (at idle), though it sounds very distant. The fan is not belt driven and the motor is attached to the squirrel cage using rubber washers.

After a run cycle, there is no excess heat and we use basic 90-day MERV 8 pleated filters (nothing fancy). The AC coil is a little dirty, but the fan is clean. Is this noise just the noise this particular motor makes or should I be concerned?


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My kitchen sink has a good size drain pipe heading into the basement and out:

And what I assume is a pretty normal connection from the drain to the sink:

But when you look at the drain in the sink, the way it's all put together, the actual holes through which water can drain are quite limited:

I can't help but think that if this were set up better, the sink would drain faster and possibly get clogged less often.  Is there a different tailpiece or other part that I can get that has a wider diameter?  Or are these so standardized that what I've got is all I can get?
EDIT
I realize my original post didn't really capture my question accurately.  So yes, I always have a strainer:

and my question is not about the crossbars in the standard strainer (I've labeled "YES" in the image below), but rather the piping that lies right beneath the strainer and seems to impinge on the drain (labeled "NO" in this image):

EDIT 2
The black "stack" is a 2" pipe at floor level, but it shrinks as it goes up.  The white pipe that branches off to the sink is 1 1/2" as suspected:


texts: Is it safe to use a Philips Hue E27 9.6W in a recommended max load of LED 4W?

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I'm considering buying some Philips Hue White Ambience LED (E27, 9.6W) bulbs, and was wondering if they'd be safe to use in a wall light fitting with a recommended wattage of SES 40W / LED 4W?

Additionally, as the wall sockets are an E22 plug, I would need an adaptor (e.g. E14 to E27 Socket Converter) and was wondering if it's advisable?


texts:
I have a Outdoor AC unit that has an A-coil in it, so it pushes all of the air from outside through huge duct work and into the ventilation, which by the time it gets to the last room its extremely weak.

But i also have a fan on my indoor furnace, but it's not hooked up to cooling, The indoor fan only kicks on when the thermostat sends its 24 volts to the fan relay

My question: Can i take the green wire from the furnace that normally goes to the thermostat and run it to the wall thermostat with the AC units green wire, so it gets a boots of air through the vents, or will i have to move the A-Coil into the furnace ?


texts: Can I run a heated floor thermostat on a 30 amp sub panel with a 20 amp GFCI breaker?

texts: Want to install a heated floor in bathroom. I would like to know if I can run it ona 30 amp subpanel wiht a 20 amp GFCI breaker.


texts: Is a double elbow code-compliant for merging two residential drains?

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I'm working on a project where I have two fixtures coming in from the left and right, and then the waste water exits downwards vertically. My question: Is a 1-1/2" PVC double elbow for this up to code?
I notice that Home Depot doesn't really stock these, and I predict that some waste water would shoot into the opposite side before it all rinses downwards. But I can't see any other use for these besides what I'm doing, so they must be legal in some situation if they are available to order, right?


texts: Do I need to feed a subpanel with a breaker, or can I use subfeed lugs?

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I am feeding a subpanel from a main panel, and the subpanel will have a main breaker installed. Do I need to feed the subpanel from a breaker in the main panel, or can I use subfeed lugs?

I understand from this question that my subpanel on a different building needs to have a "main" breaker, so the feeder will have a breaker at the load side regardless. The question is whether or not I need it on the line side or if subfeed lugs are appropriate.


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I think i'm being sold bunk by a mold company, but not sure.

We live in the tropics, we recently had our bathroom ceiling flood due to a burst pipe, and went away immediately after. (the landlord had the bathroom ceiling removed a bit under a week into our holiday)

Before we left, we called a mold control company and said we were going to leave the A/C on to keep the humidity down to prevent mold growth (we have a new A/C, very efficient, was going to keep it on the lowest setting just to dry the air a bit, so the energy usage would not have been a concern). They said not to do that. They're the "experts" so we followed their advice.

When we returned, the apartment had bloomed (literally bloomed) with mold.

Our landlord now is saying that this is because we use the A/C a lot (we don't), and need to open the unit windows more, and buy a dehumidifier. If we actually did use the A/C a lot, wouldn't the cooling and drying of the air have prevented the mold growth more than opening the unit?

We live next to a rainforest, so I would've thought that opening the unit would invite spores and damp air in rather than prevent mold?

Thanks in advance for any help


texts:
I have a shed next to a house we bought last year. The back of the shed serves as a windbreak and decorative back to a decking area but they didnt make a very good job of fixing the decorative lumber to the shed so there are plenty of gaps. We now have a wasp nest to deal with.

I suspect the best resolution is to replace the decorative lumber with lumber that has no gaps, but is there a temporary measure i can use (expanding foam or the like) to fill the void the wasp nest is being built in?

A pest controller is coming today to remove the wasps and nest but i would like to prevent a new nest being built in its place.


texts: Why doesn't my dishwasher spray consistently?

texts:
I have a frigidaire dw that is not spraying. I've engaged the switch to watch it spray for 1-2 seconds, then the water just drains through the top rack sprayer. I found a broken impeller on the circulation pump and replaced the pump. The continuity on the inlet valve is good and not clogged. I noticed that the float never engages. Possibly it is not filling with enough water to begin with...
I've removed everything under the bottom rack to look for debris, etc. All is clear
I'm stumped
Joe


texts: How do I protect the front side of a wood retaining wall?

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I have a wood retaining wall made of 3x12 pressure-treated boards similar to the one pictured here.

The backside has MiraDrain and 3/4" drainage rock.   I have an excess of earth to manage and one option I'm thinking of is to move it to the front side of the wall, approx. 12-18" high.  There is also a consideration of putting fence boards on the front to make it more visually appealing.

What should I do to the front side of the wall regarding protection from rot (whether we add fence boards or not) to make sure it has a long life.

Weed blocking fabric?
Landscape fabric?
Build 4-sided garden boxes, and put the fill dirt in there?
Do nothing?
Other ideas?

In California, no snow to worry about.


texts: Can I make a post and baluster railing terminate into a wall?

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I have a railing that starts at the first floor with a post, goes up the stairs with balusters and ends with another post. But space is extremely limited on that 2nd floor landing and the post position makes it hard to grab the railing when going down the stairs. Also the post can not be moved further because of a bedroom doorway.

My question is, can I remove that second floor post and turn and terminate the railing into the wall giving much needed extra room to grab the railing?

I've attached a couple sketches to show what I mean.


texts: What is the name of this old glass pattern?

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We've accidentally managed to break the glass above our front door, by letting the door slam. I'd like to match the glass replacement, so it matches next door. I have no idea what the pattern is called, and don't know where to look to find a match.

We've had a glass fitter around to quote, who suggested that he had not seen this style and that it is likely not made any longer.

Does anyone know the name of the pattern or could possibly tell me of any good places / sites to look for old glass patterns?


texts: Can a broken prong stuck in an outlet increase electrical consumption?

texts: I looked at my outlets today the top is fine but the bottom ones all have a prong broken off stuck inside. I always wondered is this why my electric bill is so high! Please can someone tell me if broken prongs in outlets drain my electricity!!??


texts: How to rescue smoothie stains on the wall?

texts: I accidentally spilled quite some smoothie on the wall. It turns out to be very difficult to be cleaned. Now I am thinking about repainting the wall. The only issue is, we have a high ceiling room. It's about 3m-3.5m high. Repainting it sounds like a big pain. Does anyone have any suggestions?


texts: What are the pros and cons of each type of drywall joint tape?  Are there situations where one should always be used over the other?


texts: Circulator (grundfos or willo) vs water pump

texts: Can a circulator that is usually used in hydronic heating systems be used to improve free water flow, coming from a tank? Can it replace a pump. Pressure on the outlet of the pump is not important, but the flow rate is. I have a grundfoss circulator that is capable of circulating 13 qubic meters per hour, but to my knowledge a circulator can only be used in closed systems. The water would be coming from a tank and static pressure available at the circulator suction side would be 0.2 bar when the water level in the tank is the highest. It should pump the water through an heat exchanger and out to drain line.


texts: What is the yellow lever under my bathroom sink?

texts: I'm working on a bathroom faucet that has been dripping.  I turned off both shut-off valves (one to the hot and one to the cold).  However, I also noticed a yellow lever on a pipe that feeds into the cold water supply pipe. In other words, three pipes come from the bottom of the sink cabinet (the drain pipe exits through the side of the cabinet), two of them combine before they go to the cold water side.  One of those pipes has the usual shut-off valve but the other one has a yellow lever. It looks like the main shut-off valve near my water heater.  What is this yellow lever for?  Thanks for your help!


texts: Should light fixture with outlet be grounded to metal box?

texts: I'm replacing an old ceiling light with chain with a light with outlet attachment in a grounded metal box. Do I need to ground the fixture since I have a 3 prong outlet, or since box is grounded I don't need to?


texts: I've got a large hole behind my bathroom sink on the floor. Is there a easy but serious way to plug that hole, from which comes tremendous amounts of cold air?


texts: I broke the knockouts on the blue receptacle boxes while doing electrical rough in. Now what?

texts: I haven't been inspected yet but most my rough in work is done.  The problem is that I didn't realize until now that I wasn't supposed to remove or fully knockout the trap doors on the nonmetallic recaptacle boxes.  Can I fill in the hole with a fire retardant foam or other product and call it good, or do I have to completely remove all my boxes and reinstall new ones?  If there is a product that can fix my goof, do you have any recommendations?  Thanks.


texts: Enclosing an attached carport w/ concrete slab. The slab is not completely level. Pour concrete over existing floor or install wooden subfloor?

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I am assuming my location may matter on this topic. We live in north Texas north of Dallas approximately an hour.
We are enclosing an attached carport w/ concrete slab foundation. The slab is not completely level. I have lived here for 3.5 years. I have never seen any moisture or condensation on the slab no matter what the weather conditions.
The enclosure will be 22'x24' the far corner is approximately 1.5" lower than the opposite corner.
I need to level the floor as this is going to be the new living area.
Do I pour concrete over existing floor or install wooden sub-floor?


texts:
Can I use 12/2 NM-B  wire for basement outlets?

Also can I use 15 AMP outlets and switches with 12/2 NM-B wire?


texts:
A 15 amp breaker has started tripping. It takes it a minute or two to trip after being reset. I swapped out the wires with the 15 amp breaker next to it, and the "new" breaker now trips instead, so I conclude it's not the breaker that's the problem.
It supplies a light in an entryway (which is where the breaker box is) and a light outside, a light in a walk-in closet, two lights controlled by one switch in a bathroom (one in the ceiling and one above the mirror over the sink), a ventilating fan in the bathroom and a GFCI outlet in the bathroom. Nothing is plugged in and nothing is turned on, but it trips anyway.
As far as diagnostic tools, I have a multi-meter, I have one of those little screwdrivers that light up if you touch the tip to a live wire, and I have an outlet tester (the kind you plug in and lights come on to tell you if the outlet is wired correctly). I also have standard handyman tools.
What would be the best way to set about narrowing down where the problem lies? BTW, it's a doublewide and I do not have access above the ceiling unless I create it myself.
Update: There's a junction box in the light fixture in the entryway. I disconnected wires in turn until I identified the section that trips the breaker. I've narrowed it down to the lighting/fan circuit in the bathroom. I can hear sizzling noises coming from the bathroom when I turn on the power, so I'm going to wait until I've got a helper to narrow it down further. I don't want to burn the house down!
Further update: I found it! A mouse had built a nest in the wall cavity, right where the cable goes through the sole plate, and evidently had done some chewing. The cable is burned up where it goes through the plate. If it hadn't made those helpful sizzling noises I don't know how I would have found it.


texts:
faucet handle broke off the black thing that connects the faucet handle and faucet broke

how could I fix this?


texts:
So the setup is as follows.
I've got one of those wireless doorbells in which the button is powered by a 9V battery and is stickied to the door and the sound comes from a speaker plugged in a wall socket nearby. ( I use that since I am a student and I change houses a lot)
I also have a home stereo system that is quite loud.
I have been missing people that ring me or mail deliveries and it's getting kind of frustrating.

My idea is to use a wire of some sort to solder somewhere on the doorbell button, so I can detect the button press via a CP2102 UART USB Adapter I have left off from previous projects, and then send a command to the pc to mute the music playing.

I also have a Raspberry Pi, but I am currently using it as a HTPC, so I wouldn't want to use it.

I would be glad to any suggestions on how I could approach my task.


texts: How to fix a plug socket whose screws don't hold anymore?

texts:
I removed the screws of the socket (as shown in the image) to check something, and when I tried screwing it back in, the screw wouldn't hold anymore. It just keeps coming off.

I tried sticking the socket back using superglue at the edges, but when I plugged in a water heater and pulled out the plug, the socket got un-stuck again. It's the same with any of the sockets at home. If we remove the screw once, we cant screw it back in again because it doesn't hold.

Is there any way to fix this?


texts: Floor standing U wood frame built at home - what to use for a 90 degree joint?

texts:
I'm building a U frame (inverted U). So it will have two side pieces, and one piece sitting at the top of these sides.
I plan to use a 3/4" melamine that is 4 inches wide. It is white melamine on both sides, but the edges are not.
The sides would be 58 inches tall each, and the top is 70 inches long.
It will look like a console table, but this is not a table, just a decorative frame. I might include another piece of wood in the center if it sags due to the length.
I will do this at home, I don't have special tools (I have a drill, rotary tool, screws, etc. but not mills and other bigger/heavier tools).
How should I make the proper 90 degree joint between the sides and the top? I'm wondering if the glue will work since one side is melamine but the edge of the side where it will seat is not. I would like to avoid using L brackets because they would be visible if you look underneath.
Based on the thickness (3/4") and the material (melamine on both sides, but not on the edges) what would you suggest to use? Wood screws? Wood glue plus nails? I'm not sure if wood screws would damage the wood since it's just 3/4". Should I still consider L bracket? Two or just one per side?
I appreciate recommendations!


texts:
I have a circuit with 2 15 amp breakers. They don’t act, individually they both have to be shut off to shut off the circuits. Am I looking for an outlet with two devices?  Example switch and outlet?
The breakers used to break individually, but something happened in the circuit to join the breaker, I have replaced the breaker but the problem is still there.  I think it maybe somewhere in the house joining the two circuits, but how do I troubleshoot it. I flipped the two circuits and found all the outlets and lights that are on those circuits, but I thought one outlet might be common to both circuits and shorting them together. It is a house in the state of Washington.


texts:
A little over a year ago I had a first floor extension added to my house (London, UK), and I have since discovered a number of problems - for example, no insulation at all in the loft. I am now having some more work done by another builder - a small, rear extension, with the demolition of an exterior wall under the earlier, first floor extension. In the process of inserting a steel beam over the new opening, they have made the appropriate holes in the wall of the first floor extension for the supports while demolishing the wall, and they discovered that the wall of the first floor extension is built without a cavity - it is basically just the two 'skins' right up against each other.
This was passed by a private building inspector company (I've checked their credentials online and they seem to be genuine), and I have their certificate. However, as far as I can see from the building regulations here, this should never have been passed - what do people here think?
The other, more practical question is, what can I do to make this legal, or at least avoid problems with poor insulation, humidity etc?
Adding a picture where I think you can just about see the problem:

Edit
To answer the questions in the comments:

The wall consists of an outser brick skin and breezeblocks on the inside.
My current builder says it isn't legal because the building code requires an outer wall to have a 10cm cavity which is filled with approved insulation material.
The council does indeed have inspectors, but our builders provide their own, private building inspector, who seems to be rather more thorough than the one used by the previous builder.


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I am currently finishing my basement and wondering if I need to insulate my basement. I have already framed all the walls.  I have a below grade basement and the temp is pretty consistent. Local code does not require insulation or vapor barrier. My plan was to run my electrical and throw up the drywall. I do not plan on drywalling the ceiling, I plan on keeping it exposed. Is it worth the time and money to insulate? I have read several articles on whether to insulate or not and they all contradict one another.

Thanks


texts: Is there a tool to pinpoint an exact location through wood?

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I have a wooden roof.

I need to drill though it from above, and hit the beams exactly in order to attach something.

The edges of the roof are not straight, and it is impossible to find out where the wooden roof begins, so using a tape measure to find the beams will be extremely difficult.

Does modern technology provide a tool with which I can find the position of the beams through the roof?

I'm thinking about a two-part gadget where one part can tell when it is close to the other part or something.

The roof is about an inch thick.


texts: Why am I getting no power to the branch circuits with a new sub-panel?

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My home had an ancient Zinsco sub-panel in which the breakers were grounding out and arcing to the panel.  I've swapped it with a new Eaton 100 amp panel.  I've re-installed all the breakers, and re-connected everything.

When I re-energize the 100 amp breaker in the Siemens main panel, my non-contact tester shows that I have power to the new panel, but none to the individual breakers.  The breakers all switch normally between the on and off positions, but I have no current.  The main wires are installed in the 100 amp cut-off breaker in the panel, neutral is fixed to the neutral bar and I've installed a ground bar and connected all the ground lines.

Is there something obvious I'm missing?


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I am researching how to finish one room in my basement, and not sure what to do with what I think is vapor barrier or wall wrap insulation. Its only on two of the four walls which I assume is because those walls are facing the outside. I watched a video that said I should not remove it because its already a r11 value and I would simply measure off 5 1/2 to 6 inches and snap my line. After that im not sure whats next and couldn't find any info. Most DIY sites show rigid foam as the insulation directly glued to the cement walls then furred out for the drywall, which was pretty straight forward. So basically:

Do I leave the Wall wrap up?
If I do, is 5 1/2 to 6 inches correct?
After I frame it do I then use the rigid foam sheets?
Should I just take it down and do the Rigid Foam?


texts: How to repair blind bracket screw coming out of top surface of window frame

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I moved into a house with some pretty nice blinds installed already, Hunter Douglas Duette (I think). The blind I'm looking at has 4 plastic brackets (these ones specifically) which are screwed directly into the top surface (horizontal, down-facing) of the window frame, using #6 x 1-1/2" screws (as shown on page 2 of the manual here). The screw on the right-most bracket is no longer securely threaded at all, it has stripped out whatever it is screwed into and is providing no support. I don't know enough about construction to know if it was screwed into a stud or not (I can find a stud in a wall, but this area is trickier). I know windows are framed in wood, but I'm guessing this particular screw wasn't hitting wood, because when screwed in all the way and pulled on (soft enough not to slip a thread), you can watch the entire painted surface flex like a balloon, which makes me think I'm pulling on plaster or something soft. Wood threads is hard to strip, and wood would not flex.
Here is an image of the entire blind (sorry for poor quality). You can see the right edge sagging as I have removed the bracket. The textured/painted surface available for screwing into is 3" deep. The holes for the 4 brackets are just under 3/4" back from the front edge (see the exposed hole below).

One more look at the top surface from below (behind the blind), though this doesn't really offer much information.

Since I suspect the screw was not reaching wood, I'm not sure what to do.

Reuse the same hole, with a longer screw? This would only help if there is some wood that was beyond the reach of the 1.5" screw, but I don't know.
Reuse the same hole, with a #8 screw? I suspect this would be a temporary fix only and would eventually start pulling out like the #6 did.
Move the bracket to the left a little bit and make a new hole? At least I'm not reusing the same bad hole, but this doesn't really solve the main issue, and it also makes things worse since I'm moving the bracket further from the pull string (the stress from which is what caused this bracket screw to fail before the other 3, I imagine).
Use some sort of drywall insert? Again, I don't actually know what's under the texture/paint here. I'm guessing it's more substantial than just drywall, since the other 3 screws are holding. What else could be there? Sheet metal of some sort? I have no clue.
Move the brackets back further? Maybe that is a way to find the window frame, but now the blind won't be aligned with the wall anymore, but rather recessed.

Open to ideas! I will probably start by trying the longer screw in the same hole, since I don't think that could make anything worse.


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There are plenty of UV bulbs waiting in the supply chain. These could be used to make germicidal chambers. Grandma and Grandpa could throw a package in there, let the light shine on it for a while, and poof, no coronavirus. Beats having to wipe down every box from Amazon or food delivery with bleach if you're immunocompromised.

The problem is, all these UV bulbs come in odd sizes:

E17
F5, 1' tube
G23

And they also take low voltages. Even if you get an E26 (standard) to E17 adapter, the bulb will blow the moment you plug it in. Most of these little germicidal bulbs only handle 3, 3.5 watts. What voltage their expecting, I haven't found documented. Presumably the lamps they go into already step down the voltage appropriately.

This seems like it should be a trivial solve. Home Depot carries a page of E17 bulbs. What lighting fixtures do they carry that those will go in? Ikea also has their own E17 bulb. Which lamp does it fit? I'm striking out on finding documentation for this.

I can't begin to guess how many germicidal bulbs are sitting in the supply chain, waiting to be put into service. Once the concept is proven in a DIY Sterilization Chamber for incoming packages, I'd like to take it further. I'd love to fasten a battery powered candelabra atop a roomba and let it bump around any grocery store that will have it overnight, taking a second pass at sterilizing all the surfaces that don't get wiped down or mopped at the end of the day: The cereal boxes that people touched and then put back on the shelves, and everything else like that.

Safety note: Do not expose yourself to a powered germicidal bulb. There's a reason these things are usually enclosed in ductwork, air purifiers, etc.. Hard UV light is bad for you, m'kay? If you're reading this and wanting to build your own, great. Just, enclose the light or set it loose on a roomba when no one is around, ok?


texts: Is my room suitable for electric underfloor heating?

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We are in the process of buying a new home and would like to have ceramic tiles on the ground floor. This is more resistant but can get very cold in winter, so we thought of having underfloor heating.

The builder is not really helpful when it comes to changes, so they won't install water underfloor heating as it requires too much work. But I can probably convince them to install the electric one or do it myself.

The room to be heated is about 25sq meters. Is it suitable for electric heating?

Is there anything else I should consider apart from the room size?


texts: How to prevent pressure from dropping from my water heater?

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Until two weeks ago, my parents house used one water heater ( noted "1" on the picture) to provide two bathrooms and the kitchen with hot water. The bathroom on the first floor consists of a bathtub which is used occasionally as a shower. The bathroom on the second floor has a shower and is used often.

The pressure in the shower dropped when someone opened a tap to take hot water, so they decided to add an additional water heater ( "2" on the picture)  to get rid of the problem. The two hot water network are now disconnected from each other, and this solved the problem of hot water pressure dropping.

There is now another problem. The pressure in the shower (2nd floor, coming from water heater 2) is very good for 65 seconds, then drops drastically. The water seems to just fall (vertically) from the shower head.

Can this be fixed ?

I'm not a plumber, and I'm not going to do it myself, but I may be tempted to (have someone) switch the output of the two water heaters; the water heater #1 is known to work perfectly on the second floor (pressure wise..), and the first floor shower doesn't really need a high pressure hot water (if that pressure problem can't be fixed easily).

Edit:

About the picture: These are copper pipes painted in white. The red color has been added afterwards using Photoshop to help you visualize the two hot water networks.

I did a few tests this morning:

Time to fill a 17L sink: (17L is an approximation.)

with hot water only: 35s
with cold water only: 55s

Time until hot water pressure drops: 65s

Time to fill a 17L sink with hot water when there pressure is low: 75s


texts: Outlet box between shallow and standard?

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Is there an outlet box that's shallower than a standard, but not as shallow as a "shallow"?
I need a box that's smaller than a standard, but don't need one that's SO shallow. Hoping there's an in between, but can't find one.


texts: Top Loading Washer Leaks from bottom of machine.. Usually Worth Repairing, or Time to Upgrade?

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I have an old whirlpool top loading LA8800 (Maytag rebranding?) washer that leaks from the bottom..  is this usually a simple (and cheap) gasket type repair, or would now be a good time to get a more energy (water?) efficient front loading type?

Also, anyone know what the capacity is of my Whirlpool LA8800?  I can't seem to find any specs on it, my current washer!)


texts: Is there a way to remove rust from behind a shower fixture?

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I have rust starting from seemingly behind a shower fixture. Possibly something I did, but possibly some rust that was bound to happen eventually.

What's the first step in a situation like this? It hasn't gotten much worse since it got to this stage, but of course rust always gets worse. I was recommended to scrub the area with a limescale/rust remover solution but I think the fixture has to come off, then a scrub down/sandback and then seal again somehow.


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House came with an ncient water heater that struggled but worked well enough until a leak and some other issues caused me to burn out one or both elements. The labels in the box were wrong so I drained the tank and found everything was still live. Is it too difficult to throw on a 'has power' indicator light? Anyway.

Time to replace it. I turned off the double for the water heater and I'm still waiting to see what is turned off by it. I also found that a pair of single breakers that when either one were off showed that the lines to the water heater were no longer hot. What? That cannot be right and I'm sure there's some reasonable danger involved for not just hooking it up properly.

Is the obvious fix of putting it back on the double breaker labeled for it really that simple? Or in case its actually hooked up to something else, replacing those two singles with a double?

Someone with some brains tell me I'm not going crazy.


texts: Interior wall construction - Is it possible for this to be load bearing?

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I have a 2-story brick house built in 1940 with balloon construction. On the first floor, I have an interior wall between my kitchen and living room.  I have done (I think) my homework, looked at the construction, and settled that the wall was not load bearing.  I have since removed a portion of the wall.  There was no sag at all, and no changes have happened in the structure aside from:

A slight crack at a seam in the cement board (no gap, just crack) - Possibly due from the vibrations of the construction
After cutting the studs that made up the doorway (2-2x4's), the upper 2x4's moved +1" sideways - Possibly because they're just fixed on one end now and had some residual stress

Some info on the wall.  It runs parallel to both the floor joists beneath it and above it.  In the basement, there is no wall, beam, or structure of any type beneath it.  On the 2nd floor, it lands somewhere between two walls that make up the closet between two bedrooms.

Here is the wall as it stood originally:

The hole above was an access hole so I could view the construction of the wall and how it met the floor joists above.  This is what I saw:

That's looking down the kitchen bulkhead.  The top plate of the wall on the left appears to be attached to a 1x12"(?) board that is only attached on one end of the floor joist. The wall and joists do not line up.  Here's a quick hand sketch of what I measured:

Looking at the way that thin board was cantilevered off of the floor joist, I cannot see how it could bear any load.

I realize these questions are a little obnoxious, but generally I'm somebody who did research, made a decision, and now am looking for some affirmation.  I understand the guaranteed solution is to call a structural engineer (I'm looking into it), but short term I wanted to get a little smarter and see what insight those more experienced than I might have.

Thanks

Update:

Just some more photos of the framing above the wall and 1x12 board.  As you can see, the duct work in the wall comes up through that 1x12 board, so you know the joist is offset.  One of the ducts actually goes through an opening in the joist.


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I need to replace the filter in my HVAC system. What I found at the air handler in the attic is shown in the picture. It says Aprilaire Model 2200 media air cleaner. My questions are:

Is it the filter holder with a filter inside that needs to be replaced or is the whole thing a filter in and of itself and the whole thing needs to be replaced?
Is Modeel 2200 sufficient for compatibility? For instance, is This Product compatible?

Thank you!


texts: Service conductors between meter box and 100 panel. Can I still use #2 Aluminum? Manitoba

texts: Can I still use #2 Alum between meter box and 100 amp panel? Meter box is on the side of the house and panel is at the back.


texts: What is the practical limit to the wand length for a pressure washer?

texts: The task involves pressure washing soffits that are 25-30 feet above ground level.  Is there a practical limit to the length of wand?  Any lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.


texts: How can I mend my metal tables broken arm?

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Hi I have a Metal table with two Arms that protrude outwards and Up of which you can place a cup and small plate on or Similar (Great for keeping the main table clear) but one of the Kids fell and broke Part of the arm, now Super Glue is not Stromg enough and Im trying to find an extreamly hard Bonding agent Apart from Welding, that will hold the two seperate metals together.
Thanks


texts: What should I be concerned about on this house?

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Please see:
Is channel in basement standard design?

I'm concerned the first block course is being used as a permeable tile when it's not designed as permeable.

Is water heater or furnace destroyed?

Is outside ground saturation too much for septic system?

Side and back of house have mini ponds. (standing water on ground) It hasn't been raining that much.  Other side of house has some kind of stream or drainage trench with minimal water in it.  There is a swamp hehind properly according to Google Earth.

Septic system is in front yard.  No visible issues in front yard at ground level.

Well may be shallow dug well in backyard.


texts: Is the control wiring for my boiler reversed?

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I've been diagramming my boiler wiring so that I can understand it before installing a Tekmar 256 external reset. What's been throwing me for a loop is that it looks as if the 24v common is being fed to the thermostat instead of the load. This is reversed right? Should I reverse the blue and green wires going into the transformer?

Note that there are 2 other zones not shown here, but they tie in similarly (thermostat gets the green and the taco 2 is attached to the blue).

Thanks!

Edit -- It turns out that the transformer was mislabeled. What's labeled as R/LOAD on the transformer is actually the common.


texts: Minimum recommended thickness for self-leveling concrete topping (skim coat)

texts: I'd like to resurface an already somewhat level but tarnished concrete floor with a self-leveling cement-based compound and to raise the floor level as little as possible; I've found compounds like Mira 6700 where the manufacturer specified layer thickness starts at 1 mm, so presumably the compound should be able to level itself even as a thin layer. The question is, what would be the downsides of  using a thin layer? I would properly prime the floor and use a concrete densifier after, and the floors would have minimal traffic.


texts: Dripping hand held shower head in off position

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My handheld (stand-alone) shower head constantly drips, so I bought another unit that would not fit. After the third unit, the instructions said I needed a vacuum breaker. I'm not even sure if a vacuum breaker or backflow valve will stop the leak.

One guy said I need a new faucet valve, and another said "no". Also, I have a metal ball on the pipe from the wall, so I found an adapter to hopefully use if I can figure out this vacuum breaker problem. The guys in hardware & home improvement stores give me mixed answers. The short question, I guess, is can the absence of a backflow valve or vacuum breaker cause a leak?


texts: Well I can't believe I did it . I put 1/4 Plywood down as a underlayment for stick down tile.i just got finished laying the tile and my son says daddy were is the a.c. vent I looked I said omg . Now what do I do the floor is done.. It's a trailer so what do I do go under the trailer? Wow


texts: Can oscillating multi-tools be used for fitting pattress boxes

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I have a bunch of pattress boxes to fit for light switches and plug sockets and was wondering if my oscillating multi-tool could be of any use.

I have a Bosch PMF 180 E Multi. Can this be used to cut the outside edges for a pattress box in a brick wall?

If it can then what attachment should I use... there are so many!


texts: I have a portable heat pump/air conditioner that I want to return under warranty due to some thermostat and compressor issues. The only other unit available I can replace it with has slightly less heating and cooling capacity. My current unit is 4.1KW cooling/3.8KW heating, the replacement would be 3.5KW for both heating and cooling. What effect will I notice in the reduced capacity? Longer running to reach the desired temperature? 3.5KW should still be adequate to heat and cool my roughly 18sqm room but I'm unsure of what effect I will notice exactly in the reduced capacity.


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I just got back from visiting the house I am moving into in two weeks. I was checking out the electrical circuits in the garage to see how I will be able to run my woodworking tools. I did not get around to checking the amperage on the circuits because the simple test for live receptacles gave voltages that  threw me. There is a circuit for a Room AC with the proper outlet that reads 240 volts as it should.
The circuit over the counter over existing cabinets along one wall has two 120 v receptacles in separate boxes. When I probe the outlets I GET 240 VOLTS. There is a separate circuit with only one 120v receptacle on the back wall. It must be on a separate circuit because on it I get 40 TO 50 VOLT READINGS.  Any body have any idea about what kind of jackass wiring would cause this ?


texts: How can I remove a screw driver bit that is stuck in the chuck of my drill motor?

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Go ahead and laugh....
Does anyone know how to release this little screw driver bit from the chuck?
Pulling the chuck out to release doesn't work and I can't grab it with pliers.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
...yes I know...I should have used a bit extender.


texts: How to replace light switch that is daisy chained to other light switches

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I am trying to replace a single pole light switch with a light switch with a digital timer on it. The new light switch has 3 wires (neutral, line, load). The switch doesn't need a ground. My current light switch has 3 light switches in the box. The wiring to the light switch has:
1) a bare wire (ground) going to a green screw
2) a black wire going to one of the holes in the back that you have to push to release the wire with another black wire that is looped around the screw next to the hole were the other wire is. This looped wire then goes to the next light switch (daisy chained) which then goes to the last light switch).
3) a 3rd black wire going to a screw on the opposite end of the other black wire.
4) there's a group of white wires capped off.

I was going to proceed as such to rewire the new light switch:
1) Remove the black wire going to the hole and assume this is the load wire.
2) Cut the loop on the black wire that is daisy chained and cap the ends of the wire together such that the wire just goes to the other 2 light switches.
3) The 3rd black wire, I'm assuming is the line to the light switch.
4) The white wires I'm assuming are the neutral and going to use the correct one for the light I'm putting the new switch on.

Is this correct?


texts: How do I fix up an unfinished, oil-stained pine table?

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I have an unfinished, salvaged natural hardwood, pine table, similar to the Restoration Hardware salvaged wood trestle table.  I spilled some olive oil on it and then did something worse -- tried to get it out.  I took the advice of some friends and tried scrubbing it with a brush and some soapy water and not only did it not get it out, it also scrubbed off some of the color leaving a light yellow area.  Any recommendations for making the table look better and maybe actually getting the oil out?

Also, I spoke to a company about coming out and fixing it for me.  Any idea what price range I should be looking at?


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A relatively new (2 years or so) and little used, three prong outlet in my garage has stopped accepting plugs.  The slots seem blocked.  Pushing the test and reset buttons has no effect.  There is a small green light showing. (See photo.)

What is wrong? Is it fixable or should I replace the outlet?


texts: make ground 4 gauge wire from several twisted 12 gauge solid copper wires

texts: Can I make a 10 foot long single 4 gauge grounding wire from several twisted 12 gauge solid copper wires?


texts: Electrical: Can a neutral wire just be capped?

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In redoing my main level I have misplaced my electrical diagram showing what was there before I started (so annoying!). Now I am unsure if my new solution is safe or not. I have seen diagrams which confirm, but would greatly appreciate an expert helping me out. So here's what was there before (see my horrible diagram attached):
- power to the fixture
- three wire to a switch (not a two way or three way switch)
- power continues to an outlet
I want to remove the outlet part. But this makes the three wire neutral "stranded". I have tested the wire and there is nothing there (perhaps that is obvious to most!). The second picture attached shows the current setup. So the question is: Is this safe?


texts: How can I install a switch to power a bathroom TV off safely and discreetly?

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Firstly, I'll start by saying that I have no electrical skills apart from basic changing a socket skills...

I have a small bathroom that I've decided to put a waterproof TV in. The TV is going to go in the centre of a stud frame attached to a brick wall. The wall has been boarded and will eventually be tiled. This is at the end of the bathroom, opposite the bath and sink with the wires already having been embedded behind the boarded stud frame.

The plan is to put the power adaptor for the TV in the loft above, running from a power outlet that I had wired up there, as I wanted to have the ability to switch the power to the TV on and off, so that the TV isn't left constantly receiving power fed into it (to avoid the possibly of heating it up and being damaged after a few years). I'm planning to put some kind of switch to the right of the TV, that would allow me to do this. My brother reckons this would be ok and so under his instruction, I've placed 2 2.5 T&E cables running behind the stud frame, that reach between where we intend to put the switch and the power socket in the loft. The plan is to insert the extra link of a switched fused spur (3A) between the loft power outlet to the TV power adaptor and place this switched fused spur in the bathroom, inserted flush in the tile wall.

As far as I can see by the diagrams I've looked at, the TV is going to be in the Outside Zone (not zones, 0, 1 or 2) so I could probably use a normal (non IP rated) switch but I would ideally like to use a waterproof switch, to prevent any chance of anyone with wet hands getting more than they bargained for when all they want to watch is Corrie!

I've considered using a PIR but didn't want to go this route as my Mrs will use the bath and possibly not move much whilst watching TV, so I don't want her to splash about to get the thing to come back on again. I've looked around on the net and the only waterproof switches I've see are for external use and look quite tough... I'd be happy with a small switch if possible. I've seen options like these:

A sensor switch that sits behind a wall and you just hold your hand near the tile to switch on or off - looked a bit pricey but I don't know what I'd need to incorporate this: http://www.sensor.co.uk/switches/bathroom_switch/

The Aquadesign and System Design IP 44 switches by Merten that are waterproof light switches - I can't see them anywhere to actually buy

The Clipsal switch - again, can't see this to buy anywhere apart from in Australia

The questions I have are:
Is the use of a switched fused spur safe to do like this?
Do I need (is it best) to use a switched fuse spur or is there some other way to go about this?
Would a simple cover to go over a normal switch suffice, such as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bathroom-Switch-Protector-Plastic-Waterproof/dp/B007VCTMS6?

To give a clearer idea of the environment, I've attached a photo so you can see where this is currently up to...

The tile wall will be finished in the same red tiles that are at the bottom and as there is white in the room, I'd like the switch to be discreet if possible to fit the room as it stands i.e. no industrial grey external switches.

Any suggestions, answers, etc will be gratefully received. Please feel free to ask me anything else if what I've written isn't clear.

Thanks in advance.

Del


texts: I am currently renovating my bathroom and recently removed the copper supply piping back to and including the hot and cold shutoff valves to repipe for a new shower valve. Everything was repiped with copper, cleaned, prepped and soldered including 2 new ball valves, a new shower valve and 2 new drop ears for shower and tub. I turned the water on and everything seemed to be good and none of my joints were leaking. I returned to double check the pipes the following day (about 10 hours later with pressure on all joints overnight) and there were no leaks, but I noticed on the "house side" of both shutoff valves there is the slightest amount of moisture on the surface of the solder joint between the shutoff valve and copper pipe. No dripping, not enough moisture to run down the pipe, just barely enough that when I run my hand across the joint I can feel and see the slight presence of moisture. It almost feels like condensation but I don't even want to call it that because the amount is so minimal. Is this a problem? Possibly usual for a new joints like this? This occurrence is happening on both valves and visually the joints look good so I don't believe it is a bad solder joint. Any help would be appreciated. I want to make sure everything is good before I install cement board and tile.


texts: Hvac electric furnace Nordyne E1EH-012HA

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I have a problem with Nordyne electric furnace with A/c coil above. It started the winter short cycling, then did nothing.

I became a YouTube maniac trying to figure out the problem. I first replaced the main breaker as the bottom one felt loose. Nothing.

Then I ordered a single stack sequencer, limit switch, control board and the wiring harness with the 3 connections. Okay, now if I turn the breaker on, the blower and one or more elements come on and will run until I kill the breaker.

Got a new thermostat, no difference.

If I completely disconnect all wires from the control board it makes no difference so it works like a space heater with complete disregard for the thermostat. I don’t have a separate relay but I think it might be mounted on the control board itself.

I have searched for shorted wires, traced out wires from the diagram until I’m ready to pull hair, if drinking would help, I’d be drunk! Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated!

Twiring diagram


texts: Is it possible to have a reasonably soundproof sliding door to a bedroom?

texts: We are planning a major house refurbishment, and in particular changing doors to two bedrooms. Our architect came up with this idea to put really wide sliding doors in, to get nice space after they are opened. I am a bit concerned with sound proofing though. Is it possible to make sliding doors reasonably soundproof? If yes, how?


texts: How do I trade the lights that these two light switches control with each other?

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I have two light switches in my bathroom.   I'd like to swap the lights that they operate with each other.

I have no experience with this kind of thing, but I'm hoping the proximity of the two switches makes it simpler.


texts: I installed a PT Deck in June. Wanted to get protection on it before winter set in, so pressure washed it & let it dry 1 week. I then stained it with a quality semi-transparent oil based stain. Not happy with the results. It looks as the stain didn't absorb evenly across the deck. Some parts are Great,others show more color. Suggestions on how to deal with this.


texts: Why doesn't my Touch N Go garage door opener lift the door?

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I have a Touch N Go model 100 garage door opener, with a remote and a push-button on the wall.  When I press the opener or the wall button, I hear a click (I'm assuming this is a relay) and then there is a buzzing sound.

There is a 110 plug for the motor and a wall-wart type plug which I assume is the receiver for the remote.

I took the cover off of the unit and disconnected a small plastic box that was attached to the inside of the cover.  It has a white modular type plug.

Question 1: What is this thing?

Now, when I press the button to open the door it clicks and buzzes.  If I go up and give the wheel with the belt on it a manual 1/4 turn or so, the door works fine.  It starts and stops in the correct place, just needs a little help starting.  I'm thinking the problem is either a capacitor or starter motor, but I'm not sure.  Any suggestions?


texts: So the long story shortened is my wife swapped out fans and now I have a gap in my ceiling where the old fan was and the new fan is.  Sadly the dilemma doesn't stop there so I bought a 2 part medallion and upon attempting to install it the connection for the colander is up flush with the ceiling meaning that I cannot get a medallion up between the fan and the ceiling.  Am I potentially missing an idea? I thought about patching the drywall but that also doesn't seem like a great idea. Thanks!


texts: Is this crack in block foundation/under pinning something to worry about

texts:
A couple of the concrete block in my basement wall are cracked (diagonal crack on the bottom right of the photo in the "unfinished" blocks).

The house is a 1920s duplex in Washington DC. It originally, I think, had a two story sleeping porch which has since been fully enclosed. These cracks are under the former porch on the corner of the common wall and the outside. The outside wall has concrete steps so I cannot see if the crack goes all the way through. The grade is right about at the top of the extra row of blocks on the right.

This area we think was a former laundry room and may have been dug out and under pinned by the former owner. I can see two piers supporting the porch, and I am assuming there is a third pier somewhere near this wall.

Is this crack something to worry about or does it just need to be sealed? We are planning on turning the space into a mechanical room for a new HVAC system.


texts:
My bypass humidifier is designed to run in a loop between the supply and return, and has a damper to close airflow for the summer.  The problem is that the damper is by no means airtight when closed and in fact makes the furnace significantly louder when the damper by whistling when it's closed.  I assume it hurts the air conditioner's efficiency to keep it open, or else the damper wouldn't be part of the humidifier.

How can I fix this?  It looks like gaskets are produced for rectangular blade dampers, but not for round dampers.  Is there some kind of plug I can use like a giant cork, or some other way to seal the damper?


texts: How to repair a ceiling after removing glued on polystyrene covings?

texts:
I had polystyrene covings in my apartment, and have removed them simply by ripping them off. Right now there's still glue left in many places on the ceiling, and in other places some of the plaster came off. See attached picture.

How can I restore the ceiling? It's a ceiling with quite a rough texture.


texts: How close can light fixtures be to fire sprinkler heads?

texts:
I'm planning to add several rows of fluorescent light fixtures in my garage, which has partly recessed fire sprinkler heads.  Does code specify how close fixtures can be to the sprinklers?

Common sense says the lights should not block the sprinklers, but I'm not sure how far that really would mean.  The light fixtures I would like to use are about 4" tall.

Finally, if surface mounting lights nearby is an issue with code, what about recessed lights?


texts: Why did HVAC company add a heat outlet register venting into my attic?

texts:
I recently had a brand new HVAC system installed in my attic. The furnace is natural gas. The furnace kept shutting down after 7 to 12 minutes, due to "too much air" blowing on heat sensor switches and overheating them. It would take over 2 hours to reset, then it would shut down again after 7 to 12 minutes.
After 3 service attempts to correct the problem, they finally (without telling me) cut a hole in the heater box, screwed on a vent register and simply drained the excess heat into the attic.
That stopped the shutting down problem, BUT they told me they fixed it by replacing the sensors switches and mentioned nothing about the new vent. I only discovered what they did when I opened the attic access door, and felt hot air blowing out. The attic was very hot.
My attic is full of blown-in insulation and mouse droppings - I don't like forced air blowing around up there.
Is this a standard, safe fix?


texts:
Disregard the old setup in the background, the old horizontal pressure tank is rusted out.

I have a shallow well and I want to set it up with two pressure tanks. Obviously the goal is to make the pump run less because it's kinda loud in my house.

Should I install a tee in the inlet of the smaller tank, connect the tee to the larger tank, and then equalize the air charge in the two tanks? What is the correct way to install this setup?


texts: Why would my Goodman gas furnace start but not stay on for more than 2-3 minutes?

texts:
I've got a problem with my 15 year old Goodman furnace. It starts w/o problem, inductor begins working, hot surface ignitor lights up and ignites the gas. Then the main blower starts working and the whole thing stays on for 2-3 minutes. Then the flames go off before the thermostat reaches the target temperature. Though it continues to recycle the air. It will restart 20-30 min later with the same effect. Sometimes the flames don't appear at all (I guess gas valve stays off) even though everything else stays on (including HSI).

I checked the termocouple. It looks clean but may be I still should replace it? Could it be a faulty air pressure switch?


texts: Flooring options for rejuvenating office space

texts:
CONTEXT

1000 sq-feet of 30 y.o tiled office space in North Florida

I am reasonably handy (changed the steering tie-rods in the car 6 months ago) and interested in determining if it makes sense to self install

QUESTIONS

We are evaluating replacing the flooring with artificial wood laminate, carpeting, or tiling for future renters.

How to evaluate to  what degree is the current tile cleanable / reusable?
Is it necessary to remove the tile in order to install carpeting or artificial wood laminate?  If yes, why?
If unnecessary to remove tile to install laminate, how should the tile be prepped (beyond normal cleaning)?

If you have experience with this decision making, please state this in your response.  Insightful experience: lessons-learned or pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.  Thank you


texts:
I plan on selling my house within a year to a custom builder who will demolish it and build a new home.

Recently rain has been leaking into the bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen. Exactly where in the room it leaks depends on how heavy it is raining.

I tried a few new shingles and a partial tarp but these measures did not help.

Re-roofing is not an option.  What else can I do that will last for one year?


texts: Painting pressure treated wood and particleboard inside a shed

texts:
I just had a shed installed that will be used for storing bicycles and scuba diving gear (so sometimes it will be a little damp inside). The walls of the shed are made of smooth planed pressure treated wood. The roof is made of particleboard. I'm in the UK so the temperature range isn't extreme.

I'd like to paint the walls and ceiling inside of the shed white and was wondering if I should use any particular paints. I am concerned that if I use a cheap or incorrect paint that it will either flake off or discolour.

For reference, here's a photo of the inside of the shed.

Edit

I've been advised to use Cuprinol Garden Shades on the inside and outside, so any thoughts about that will be welcomed.


texts: Can I glue instead of screw a 3/4” strip of cement backer board?

texts: I am building a shower. The entrance is framed by 2x4s. On the outside of the shower there is drywall butting up against the 2x4. So, there is only enough room for a 3/4” strip of hardibacker. I’ve tried predrilling and countersinking, but the hardibacker is still breaking at every screw hole. I’m thinking about gluing it down with construction adhesive instead. Thoughts?


texts:
Trying to replace an old outlet wired 12 gauge.  I have encountered problems keeping the wire on the Leviton screws particularly when putting new outlet in the box.  I read one posting suggesting a larger box may be needed, is this the only option?  The house was built just prior to 1980--not sure if that is relevant.

C Scott (DIY newbie)


texts: Propane fireplace lights up, but turns off after 5-20 minutes

texts: I have an Insta-Flame HE 20 propane fireplace.  It's probably 25 years old. No thermostat that I know of. The pilot light is lit no problem.  I turn it on and it lights up good, but it always turns off.  It could be 5 minutes later or up to 20 minutes later. I have turned it on several times and it always goes out on it's own. Any ideas of what it could be or what I can check to diagnose?


texts: Literature on effect of frequent switching on-off of air conditioner on compressor

texts: I tried searching for literature on this using various search terms on google scholar but couldn't get anything substantial. I'm particularly interested in how adversely the AC compressor is affected by frequent switching on-off and how its efficiency is affected. Is there any additional conventional wisdom you could enlighten me with? Thank you for the help.


texts: How to make a rectangular pipe structure with clockwise threads

texts:
I'm trying to make a gate structure for my attic to prevent people from falling through the pull-down stairs opening.  For this, I'm joining threaded iron piping together with elbow joints and t-joints.  The problem is that when I try to make a rectangle with four sections of pipe and four elbows/t-joints, I can't attach the fourth corner together because tightening the fourth section of pipe into the fourth joint by turning it clockwise would un-screw the third joint because it would be turning counter-clockwise.

Here is a photo of what I'm doing:

I feel like I'm missing something obvious.  And when I googled it, I found this site for building shelves with similar materials and a similar method, but it doesn't mention the problem I'm having.

Could someone please help?


texts: How can I replace an existing pergola supporting mature wisteria?

texts:
We moved into a home with a 15-year old wooden pergola that is supporting mature summer wisteria vines. Most of the "beams" are 2x4s, all the beams are sagging, and the wooden lattice roof is rotting and falling down. The whole thing needs to be replaced with a sturdy structure.
What is the best way to replace the pergola while preserving the wisteria?
Edit: Adding more photos of the underside/damage. The posts seem to be okay.


texts:
I am looking to build a desk for my office (L-shaped), but I am rather new at woodworking.  I have the tools, and this would be a long project, but have no idea where to start.

Are there any good places to buy plans from?  Where should I even start?


texts: What Wire Gauge and Conduit Size for 15a Cicruit Extension?

texts:
I am planning to run power to a very small shed by extending an existing 15a circuit that currently feed only a gate operator (4.5amp). This is located in southeast Michigan. I only need power at the shed for a light and a single receptacle for the occasional small power tool. The gate is fed by (3) #14 wire in PVC conduit about 100'. I plan to tap into the existing junction box at the gate and run THWN #14 wire underground (18" depth) in a 3/4" conduit about 75' to the shed. I will use a small disconnect and a GFCI at the first receptacle. My questions:

Will there be a problem with voltage drop if running #14 wire that far? I assume it does no good to run heavier wire unless I replace the existing run of #14 with the same.
Is schedule 40 PVC conduit sufficient for running a 120v, 15amp circuit 18" down in a residential yard?


texts: Is there anything special needed to cut out a section of carpet?

texts:
I am cutting out a section of carpet as I expand my entryway, and I want to ensure it's held down properly.

I am putting a 4' high wall up where the double red line is, and cutting out that section of carpet (later I will probably tile). Right now, there are tack strips all around except for between where I drew the two arrows. If I cut out that section, I guess I need to put new tack strips down and attach the carpet somehow. Am I going to need to use one of those carpet stretching tools to do this? Should I put tack strips down before I put the new wall in place or after? Any other suggestions about the best way to cut this and avoid problems?

Update:

Just stumbled across this again, figured I'd add some post-photos (even though I finished this a couple years ago now).

I used some painter's tape to both mark the cut I wanted, and try to ensure the fibers weren't damaged/dislodged, then just cut it with a sharp utility knife and a level as a straight-edge.

The wall I built was just a 2x4 frame, and before I put it in place, I put a tack strip in along the edge of the carpet there, and pulled it as best I could to get it to attach.

Because I just cut a corner of the carpet out, and it was still attached on all 4 sides, it didn't really move any or need to be "streched" (which is what I was concerned about).

For the door opening, I used a carpet threshold tack strip (forget the name -- it has a channel in it that you push a piece of PVC molding into to cover the seam up):

So after four years of living with a tiny entrance that only one person could be in at a time, we were totally happy with the final result... for the remaining two months we lived in that house. Such is life :)


texts: Why am I getting shocked when my breaker and switch is off?

texts:
I've recently added power to an outbuilding and wired in a light circuit. While adding another light fixture, the wire broke at the fixture so I was rewiring it. With the switch and breaker off, as I was connecting the wires to the fixture, I was shocked. I measured before the shock and after, no voltage. It's happened several times while rewiring the same fixture. (added) Not sure if I touch neutral but definitely felt it on the hot wire.

Here's how I'm wired. Switch is switching hot line. The ground is not used as there is no connector for it (simple light bulb fixture). Lights are in parallel. Other light fixture has an LED light in it.

Why is this happening, and why is it intermittent?

I've attached a picture of the layout (sorry, it's pretty crude)


texts: What can we use as a wireless switch for a ceiling light?

texts: I removed a light/ceiling fan that had a pull string when we installed my son's bunk bed (we didn't want the fan blades knocking him in the head).  We now want to install just a ceiling light.  There is electrical at the light location but no wall switch.  What wireless options for a ceiling light are there so my son can turn on the light when he walks into the room?


texts: How do I install a sink in a room that doesn't have a drain vent?

texts:
I want to install a sink in my attached garage where there is no existing plumbing.  I will be running new water supply and drain pipes to mains behind a nearby wall.  I'm concerned I will need a drain vent to avoid a slow or gurgling drain.

What is a good design to avoid plumbing problems once installed?


texts: What type of compression fitting do I need?

texts:
I purchased a GE PLV1817XSS dishwasher and I am trying to connect the water to to the dishwasher intake, but I'm having trouble finding the correct fitting. The water intake is an unthreaded plastic tube that sticks out the back. The instructions(Spanish) are extremely vague and simply say to get a 90 degree elbow, but give no indication of what size of anything is needed:

I had purchased a Braided stainless steel water hose which comes with an elbow (3/8" FCM (Female Compression) x 3/8" MCM (Male Compression) 90° brass elbow), thinking that this was all I needed, but I didn't realize that it lacks the compression nut that goes with it.

The outer diameter of the water inlet tube is 14 mm (measured with a vernier caliper), but when I went to a place that specializes in brass, they said they don't have anything that measures 14 mm, since apparently that isn't a standard size. They had one fitting that is 12.8 mm, which is too small, and another that is about 16 mm, which (I think) is too big. Can anybody give me an idea what I need to get the water connected to this thing? Do I need something else besides a brass fitting that might come in different measurements?

I called the support number listed in the manual and they told me that they wouldn't help me unless I paid for a certified technician to do the installation. Thanks, GE.

Edit: Apparently that tube sticking out the back is not the water intake. The water intake is on the front of the dishwasher.


texts:
I have a half basement that I'm keeping open and its 45'x12'. I had always planned on doing a drop ceiling with recessed lights but I'm wondering if there is a better option considering the length of the room. My plan as of now is to install 8-10 lights total in 2 rows.
Has anyone done a living space with other lighting options so I could cut down on the amount of lights needed?


texts:
Basically there is a PVC flange that was glued to the inside of the pipe.  The problem was that the metal flange that was on the outside was so completely bent that the bolts no longer stayed inside.  So I wanted to remove the metal flange and replace it with a new one, but I didn't know the PVC was glued in and long story short wound up breaking it.  What is the correct way to fix this? I have replaced several toilets before but never had this problem before.

Picture of toilet flange now (note - that metal ring is the NEW one):

Will a wax ring like this just go over it and seal the hole?  Or do I need some kind of gasket?  Something more?


texts:
So our pump kept going off randomly as well as our tank running out of water. I put a couple of drops of food colouring in this toilet tank and sure enough the toilet bowl filled with colored water. So it seems that there's a leak running into the bowl.

Can anyone let me know how to fix?

Here's a video of said leak (ignore the tp, it was used to wipe up excess food colouring!)

https://streamable.com/5wig


texts: Can I use 22/4 wire instead of 20/2 wire?

texts: My central vacuum system needs 20/2 stranded low voltage wire (24 volts I think).  Can I use 22/4 wire and pair-up two each to equal or better 20/2?  I could save some money by using surplus 22/4 wire.


texts: What do I separate in my aerator assembly?

texts: Still trying to connect 3 to my faucet (shown in 4-8), I unscrewed the aerator. Now what do I separate? How? Please state if I can do this by hand or need special equipment.


texts: How to safely connect a gas insert to flexible steel?

texts:
With the cold weather coming, we'd like to install a gas insert that we bought a while ago. The gas outlet that's in the fireplace in shown in the picture below.
To replace this part would require disassembling the fireplace, opening up the wall, removing the baseboard and making an access whole in a recently installed hardwood floor.
Is there another safe way to make a connection the this hose?


texts: What kind of caulk to use around light fixture on masonite/composite/engineered wood siding?

texts: I have hardboard/masonite/composite/engineered wood siding (but it's not LP or Hardie, which I understand are better and more expensive). I noticed a light fixture and the siding aren't very well sealed together. I assume I need to caulk around the fixture? I've never caulked in my life. What kind of caulk do I buy? As to color, could I use a clear one, so I don't have to paint? Thank you]1


texts: How large should a hole be for a bolt to go through?

texts:
I am building a table and I have something like the following:

I want to know if I have a 3/8 inch bolt, how large should the hole on the diagonal piece be? I already secured it on the table leg.


texts: Should I bleach my deck or just power wash it?

texts:
I am planning to power wash my deck and stain it afterwards. But I am confused with most of you saying Bleach it, one says NO WAY!  My deck was built in 1987 as pressure treated lumber 2" thick vs. the standard 1 3/4", and was let go for the last 5 or so years by previous owners who moved out of state.  It has a Cabot red stain on it; most of it gone, and a lot of green mold.  It is in full sun from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m and it is tiered, so it slowly goes down 4 tiers.  No way staining can get on french doors.

I plan on using a 2 gallon sprayer for the stain when the time comes, but pressure wash it with a Subaru Costco pressure washer.  Quite a bit of wood is in bad shape.  We plan on replacing in the next year or so.


texts:
My lamp has a label on it that says Max 6.5w 120v 60hz, but I have bulb that I wanted to use that is 9w LED. The bulb that was in there before was also an LED 6.5w.
Would I be able to use a 9w LED bulb in this lamp or would it be too risky?


texts: How do I un-stick the release button on my Yale door knob?

texts: I'm rekeying my door locks (Yale door knob/locks). To remove the knob, you press in the release button & slide the knob off. The release button is stuck and I can't depress it enough to slide the knob off. Any ideas?


texts: Computer desk vibrates and hits wall while I type, need solution?

texts:
Like the title says, when I type on my computer desk, my computer desk vibrates and hits against my wall. I was thinking about mounting L-brackets to the bottom of the desk to the studs in my wall, but I feel like there has to be some solution for this.

The desk I'm using is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075HBQSTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The floor that the desk is on is some laminate wood flooring that has a couple weak spots so that might be contributing to the desk not being as stable and moving a lot when I type.

P.S. I live in a rental so I'm not able to make any MAJOR changes, but I'm willing to hear out anyone with any advice.


texts:
So, we've ran into a couple folks who have annoying 3.5" octagon or pancake boxes firmly embedded into exterior walls, and want to mount a receptacle in them -- the pancake box from a linked thread is depicted below, along with a dimensional drawing of same.

Unfortunately, the screws provided on a 3.5" octagon or pancake box for device mounting don't fit much of anything besides a light fixture as they are spaced 2.75" apart -- single and duplex receptacle yokes are too big with their 3.28" standard mounting screw spacing, and flanged outlets are too small as their mounting holes are 2" apart, as can be seen below.

So, can you use a raised 4" round to 3.5" round adapter mudring, such as a Crouse-Hinds TP332 or the Raco 727 depicted below, mounted with its 3.5" side to the existing box, to provide 4" standard mounting holes which can then be used for a 4" weatherproof faceplate adapter (Taymac PRBA400G, depicted below with a different box) or weatherproof round extension box as well as a faceplate adapter (Bell 5363-0 or equivalent extension box)?  (Of course, you'd have to do some extra work to make sure things are sealed appropriately for outdoor use due to the mudring & box sticking out, but that's beyond the scope of this question.)


texts: Is my plan for an AC disconnect with GFCI appropriate?

texts:
My new AC system will include two motor loads:

Central AC (Rheem RA1642): 208/230-1-60, 40A MOCP, 25A MCA, 20.2A rated load
Minisplit (Fujitsu 12RLFW1): 208/230-1-60, 20A MOCP, 12A MCA, 5.9A rated load

I also intend to provide a 120 VAC 15A GFCI outlet.
I propose to install the GFCI outlet on one pole of the circuit feeding the 20A disconnect. NEC table 201.24 permits a 15A receptacle on a 20A branch circuit (see this question). Based on NEC 210.23(A)(1)&(2) the max permissible receptacle load would be 16A and the max permissible utilization load would be 10A. With a 15A outlet and an AC rated at 5.9A heating (4.4A cooling) I should be within these limits.
Has anyone experienced GFCI nuisance trips hanging such an outlet on one pole of a circuit with a two-pole motor load like this? I wonder whether a transient voltage from the motor turning on/off might cause a trip?
The 40A disconnect will remain on a dedicated 40A circuit.
The wiring would go as follows:

Central AC: 60A fusible NEMA 3R disconnect (with 40A RK5 fuses), #8 THWN to internal jbox, 8/2 NM-B to service panel with 40A 2-pole breaker.
Minisplit + GFCI: 30A fusible NEMA 3R disconnect (with 20A RK5 fuses), #12 THWN to internal jbox, 12/3 NM-B to service panel with 20A 2-pole breaker. GFCI outlet either integrated in disconnect panel or in separate weatherproof box.

I will run #10 Cu ground wire. All THWN to run above ground in shared conduit thru and along outside of brick wall under an eave in Virginia. For ampacity, no temperature correction has been applied but 5 current-carrying wires in conduit calls for an 80% adjustment. For conduit fill we have 2@#8 (0.213), 1@#10 (0.161), 3@#12 (0.128). With 3/4 SCH 40 PVC conduit I estimate less than 30% fill (I am permitted 40%).
Any comments or concerns about this plan?
Thanks for the initial feedback. I've edited to clarify the requirements. Here's a link to my original (and more muddled?) question.
From sub-panel to outside

Along the outside wall

A rough wiring schematic
Two disconnects shown as dashed boxes with GFCI outlet and lugs for fused circuits and ground.


texts: Is 40-amp breaker enough for my new range?

texts: My new range says it needs a 40-amp circuit breaker minimum. But it also says maximum draw is 13,200 watts on 120/240, so doesn't that mean a 40-amp breaker would be inadequate? By my math, max wattage on a 40-amp circuit is 9,600, de-rated to 7,680. I'm unlikely to have the oven and all five stove segments going full burn at once, but sheesh, don't I need at least 55 or 60 amps? (And 6-gauge wire?)


texts: In-place sewer cleanout tee replacement?

texts:
I had a contractor roll over a sewer cleanout with some heavy machinery. It looks like the contractor may have amnesia about the damage and reporting to his insurance, so I may be out of luck and need to repair this by myself. The broken piece is at the Y coupling (shown in red):

So the cleanout piece has completely shattered and can be removed easily. Digging the dirt away down to the y connector, the Y has cracked open and I can see into the sewage pipe (gross). From what I can tell, the pipes going in both directions away from the connector are very "snug" and immovable in the ground (at least, not with the equipment I have), so bending them enough to put on a new piece is probably not an option. I think I need an in-place way to replace this that doesn't require moving the existing pipes (a slide repair coupler?). Obviously I need to avoid step-ups or step-downs in flow so waste doesn't get trapped and collect.
Looking for suggestions.


texts: Best advice on Frayed, exposed wires on air purifier cord

texts:
I was cleaning my air purifier today and saw exposed wires on the cord (photo attached). It's hard to see but it looks like this part of the cord has been flattened/run down and then popped open, but it has never been placed in between a door or in an area where it's stepped on. This has me thinking it might have been an issue since I've had it -- 2-2.5 years. Can anyone recommend the best way to replace this cord? Temporarily, I will cover it with electrical tape, but long term I'd want to replace it since I run it all the time.

FYI - I'm in the US.

Brand of Purifier: https://www.envionproducts.com/images/TPP230H_Mnl_3.15_R1.pdf

Photo of breakage:


texts: What device allows me to recover a hot wire from two travellers coming from a 3-way switch?

texts:
At some spot (call it, say, S1) I have a 3-way switch with two incoming travellers from another 3-way switch downstairs (say, S2) and for some reason I cannot easily rewire things between S1 and S2.

I would need a (full) hot wire at S1 and there is none. So I thought: in theory, at any moment in time, exactly one of the two travellers is hot. Is there some device that I could wire at the end of the two travellers at S1 that would recover a permanent hot wire, switching automatically from one traveller or the other?

This is S1. The two black wires are the travelers, the two white wires go to two separate lamps (and are bridged).


texts: Can beams be up against a post base like this?

texts:
I'm building a 12x16 ground-level deck in my backyard (not attached to the house). I'll have 4x6 beams anchored to concrete footing.

My question is: can I install a 4x6 ledger beam that will have its ends up against a post base (the beam will be supported by Simpson Strong-Tie framing angles)? I'm hoping my Sketchup model will illustrate clearly what I'm trying to explain. For some reason I don't think you can/should, but I don't know anything about building decks (I'm learning as I go!). Any help/advice would be awesome. Thanks.


texts:
I have a setup as follows: power, switch 1, switch 2, light. Wires are power to top of switch one, travelers from switch 1 to 2, and top of switch 2 to lignt.

For the following, I will call switch 1 power sw1-p, and the travellers sw1-t1 and sw1-t2, and switch 2 similarly.

I'm testing the switch screw against ground.

Testing results are as follows:

Switch 1 up   Switch 2 up   ---> light on
sw1-p  120v   sw2-p   120v
sw1-t1  35v   sw2-t1   35v
sw1-t2 120v   sw2-t2  120v

Switch 1 up   Switch 2 down ---> light off
sw1-p  120v   sw2-p     0v
sw1-t1 120v   sw2-t1  120v
sw1-t2 120v   sw2-t2  120v

Switch 1 down Switch 2 down ---> light off
sw1-p  120v   sw2-p     0v
sw1-t1   0v   sw2-t1    0v
sw1-t2   0v   sw2-t2    0v

Switch 1 down Switch 2 up   ---> light off
sw1-p  120v   sw2-p     0v
sw1-t1   0v   sw2-t1    0v
sw1-t2   0v   sw2-t2    0v

These results baffle me. What is the problem? How do I fix it?


texts: Why is my GFCI/Switch combo working in such an odd way?

texts: I recently moved into a new apartment, built around 1960.  There was no outlet in the bathroom or within 10 feet,  just a light switch.  So I purchased a CFCI/Switch combo at Lowes. There were only two wires in the box when I opened it up, a black and a white(no ground wire).  I wired it according to the instructions, and everything is working fine, except.  The outlet will not work with the switch in the on position and vice versa, outlet works fine with the light switch off.  Is this normal? I am having trouble shaving in the dark, any advice would be appreciated.


texts: How to repaint bathroom walls that have a vent but lack an exhaust fan

texts: I am in a condominium apartment in a building that was built in 1965. My bathroom has a wall vent for air circulation but it does not have a motorized exhaust fan. The paint is flaking and pulling away from the wall. I am thinking that it might be a problem with the sheet rock or the plaster behind the paint that is already there. What can I do to prepare the wall to be repainted?


texts:
I replaced my doorknob locks and deadbolts when moving into my new house. I have the original locks still, but don't know what to do with them. It seems unlikely that anyone would want to use them, especially as part of a private sale or exchange as they wouldn't be able to trust that I don't have a copy of the key. Similarly, I wouldn't expect a donation center like Goodwill to accept them either. However, they're still useful locks and seem like something too valuable to simply discard.

What is typically done with the previous locks after replacing them?


texts: The old outlet I wish to replace has a red wire pushed into the push connector and another red wire hooked around a brass terminal. The same is true for the two black wires. My question is should I pigtail the red wires and then just have one red wire attached to a brass terminal and likewise with the two black wires?


texts: Do I have a bad heating element in my electric boiler?

texts:
I have a Dettson Hydra20.  Two days ago we woke up to 17C inside the house instead of the 21C set on the thermostat.  The water temp on the boiler was at 40C and not moving.  I also have a gas fired boiler (dual energy setup), I switched to gas and the water temp quickly went up to 80C.
Today I did some troubleshooting on the electric boiler.  I changed a relay that I think was faulty (I wasn't hearing clicking, though in retrospect, I should have checked voltage at the heating elements to be sure).  After that, I ran the electric boiler again, water temp got up to about 55C after thirty minutes or so.  The problem is that the water temperature is set for 75C using the set screw.  Even after an hour, it never gets past 60C.  Pressure stays at around 18psi.  From what I recall, before it was getting up to 75C and about 25psi.  The radiators seemed hotter before, though I don't have temperature readings to prove it.
I tried rolling back the set screw water temperature control and the boiler turned off as expected.  Rolling it back up turned the boiler back on.  So this seems to be working normally.
All four heating elements check for continuity and do not have shorts (touching terminal and other metal on the element with meter).  Each shows ~12 Ohms resistance and when running,  ~240V.
Is it possible that I have a bad or under-performing element?  Anything else I should check?  Thanks a lot!