texts: Is insulating an unfinished basement worth it? If so, how should I go about it?

texts:
I have an unfinished, well waterproofed basement with cinderblock walls and a concrete floor. All but the top 6 inches / 15 cm or so is underground.

Would it be worth insulating the walls down there? How would I do it? We have pretty long, cold winters and the summers are generally mild - a few 90 degree F days, but mostly high 70s to 80s.


texts: Are there electrical outlet plates or devices that can be put inside the electric box to measure power usage?

texts:
There are some outside the outlet devices that can measure power going through outlets like these:

But it's pretty massive and 70s looking. Has internet of things permeated to power usage yet?


texts: Can I use a 1/8 water supply line for a dryer with steam refresh option?

texts: I have a whirlpool steam refresh dryer that is not next to the washer or a water pipe. Can I use a 1/8" flexible pipe tapped into a pipe and then increase to fit on the dryer?


texts: Does covering a mattress with sheets prevent dust mites and their allergens?


texts: Snaking toilet: regular maintenance or only if issue?

texts:
My partner and I live in a small (7-unit) condo building and want to make sure that we are maintaining our unit according to what are standard practices. One question we have is whether snaking our toilet is maintenance item or whether this is something that is typically only done if an issue arises.
Is it standard practice to snake your toilet regularly, or is this only done if we have concerns about our toilet/plumbing?


texts: waterproof shower: waterproof pan or not?

texts: I have a question about waterproofing our shower. We have a pre-slope, then the PVC liner, then the final mud bed. We are going to use the Aquadefense liquid waterproof membrane. We installed our cement board after finishing the final mud pan. There is about 1/8"-1/4" gap between the bottom of the cement board and the top of the mud pan. Can I use the alkali resistant tape to seal the gap, and then thinset over top of that? Or should I use the waterproofing fabric and paint over that with the Aquadefense? Also, I've seen some people use the liquid waterproof over their entire finished mud pan, but many people are saying not to do that because it can create a "mold sandwich". Can I just waterproof around the perimeter of the mud pan a few inches so that I avoid creating this "mold sandwich" but still have the gap sealed and waterproofed?


texts: How do you hang something on sheetrock if you have metal wall studs? The item is a very heavy shelf, so anchors aren't going to cut it.


texts: What could be causing strange voltage readings?

texts:
My wife bought some new wall sconces for the house and asked me to install them. I'm not an electrician (obviously) but this seemed like something I could handle. So I switched them out, following proper safety precautions, wiring the new ones analogously to the old ones, and they illuminated. Cool!

While we were at it, she says, lets put the old sconces in the hallway in these mysterious electrical boxes behind the hanging picture frames that are apparently wired but we've never used for anything. Sure, why not? Eight hours later I've partially reverse engineered the electrical schematics for the upstairs of my house, the new sconces aren't working, the original sconces aren't working, and a significant sub-circuit in my home no isn't getting any power. Let that be a lesson to you. If it's not broken, don't fix it.

So it turns out I've got an electrical box in my old (i.e. "has character") home and there are two cables coming into it (well probably one coming in and one coming out to be precise). The cables each contain two-conductors (I presumed a live and a neutral). For the purposes of discussion, let the conductors in the first cable be A and B, and let the conductors in the second cable be C and D. I believe, before I took things apart, that conductors A and C were wire-nutted together and conductors B and D were wire-nutted together in the junction box.

I couldn't be sure which of these wires were lives and which ones were neutrals, so I got out the multi-meter and took some measurements. I wasn't 100% sure what to expect. I mean sticking the two probes of the multimeter into a known working two prong (most of the house isn't grounded) electrical socket, something I advise against doing on a regular basis, I measured 120VAC (which is what I would have expected, being in the USA and all).

What I actually measured makes no sense to me - but what do I know... My question is, what are the implications of the following measurements taken in the electrical box?

Between A and B: ~18VAC
Between A and C: ~65VAC
Between A and D: ~65VAC
Between B and C: ~ 0VAC
Between B and D: ~65VAC
Between C and D: ~ 0VAC

I didn't measure these before I started this wiring odyssey unfortunately... but I can't make heads or tails out of these measurements - I don't see 120VAC between any two of them... what does that mean?


texts: How to remove side vinyl from the window

texts:
I live in a cold place. I already have double sided window but unfortunately, they are massive and basically make up the whole living room, thus making the living room very cold. I bought more double side window, each with the same size.
Anyways, I was about to install the double sided window and found out very quick that removing these plastic siding thingy are very hard:

I tried prying it, but it is so hard to get it in there. I tried knife, it works, but it bends, and I'm afraid that if I pry it too hard, I"ll crack the window. I can't find anything in the internet about this. I don't even know the name of that siding thingy. Just "vinyl siding"? In any case, that didn't yield any google results. Any help would bey very much appreciated.


texts: Repair a table after an accident with a candle

texts:
We had a little accident with a candle on our table, so I have to fix the following problems:

Burned hole about 5x5 centimeters (top left in the photo)
Scratch, about 1 millimeter deep, and one square centimeter large
Dark/dirty spot that can not be cleaned (middle)

I think the best solution would be to use sandpaper and then to "repaint" the table.

What I wonder: Which kind of paint/finish to I use to achieve the same color as it has currently? The table does not seem to be actually painted, it feels quite "natural". But as I see in the scratch, it has a different color "inside" than on the top.

(I'm not a native english speaker, so I hope that I used the right words to describe the problem.)


texts: How should I dispose of material waste during home construction?

texts:
The construction of my new home is undergoing now, but I am facing a problem - piling up of trash and unnecessary materials left over at each step of the development which I am moving to my garage. My garage is completely filled with trash. There is no space left in the garage to store the building materials. I am facing difficulty getting rid of it. If the garage was bigger, we could have stored all of our building materials there. So I'm confused about the disposal of this junk.
What are your thoughts on hiring a junk removal company in these situations?


texts: What type of paint do you use for a concrete retaining wall to work with hydrostatic pressure?

texts:
I know we are not supposed to recommend brands because it is against the rules. But I am trying to paint some outdoor cement stairs that tie into a retaining wall that is roughly 4ft tall to as high as 7ft tall. We're on a hill so one side is higher than the other.

I just dealt with a HUGE fail at one of the main hardware stores where I learned later (after I paid $400 and painted several hundred square feet with the product I bought) that the type of cement paint I used isn't designed for vertical surfaces and retaining walls. It's partly my fault for not reading the entire label. But I did read the instruction portion thoroughly. And not only did I tell the HD rep at the store but a rep of the actual brand of paint I used was there today didn't speak up either. I showed everyone a photo of my cement wall and no one knew to steer me away. So now I'm not sure what type of paint to use.

Can anyone help me?


texts: How to fix this one and is it a moisture problem?

texts: I wonder how to fix this moisture and I am not even sure if it is moisture. Please advise.


texts: Is there such a thing as a vice on a stand?

texts:
I have a small shed with a concrete foundation. I need a vice in the shed, but there's no room for a big, heavy workbench to keep it in place. I can't bolt it to the wall of the shed, because it's flimsy wood and will not withstand the force I'll need to apply to stuff.

So, what I want is a vice atop to a solid metal post, about 3 foot high, with big, strong bolts so I can drill into the foundation and secure it. Do I have to make this myself or does it exist to be bought?


texts: What's the goo on the ground cable in my breaker box?

texts: I'm going to be replacing the breaker box in my condo and I'm looking more to the details now. I see that the main service entrance cable ground has some goo where is connected to the ground bar in the breaker box, see picture pls. Is this something normal I should get and apply when I install the new panel? or is it nothing to worry about? Thanks


texts: How are tandem breakers used in multi-branch circuits?

texts:
I'm in the process of replacing my breaker panel. I was talking to my neighbor and she said that her panel was changed when she did some remodeling. I was interested to see what was installed in her condo because we have a limited width (11in) space for the panel. Here is a picture of her panel (the one with the 30A breaker) and mine (the one with the 40A breaker). It looks like all of her breakers (except for the 30A) are tandem (Type MH-T on the labels). The installation was done by a certified electrician and inspected/approved by the
city. I have two multi-branch circuits in my condo. You can see breakers 4 and 5 linked with a piece of metal. Breakers 2 and 3 are also multi-branch but the metal link is missing. Her condo is like mine so she should also have two multi-branch circuits. So ... how did the electrician do that with the tandem breakers? I'm trying to fill the missing info I have in my knowledge because my ignorance says what the electrician did is wrong.

BTW it also looks like the A/C breaker was downgraded from 40A to 30A. I measured the current in the A/C in my unit and the running current is 18A so I thought I could do that but I was discouraged from doing that (in another post here) because of high current at start up, which made sense.

I could think of a weird way of using tandem by connecting one to one pole and another to another pole and butting them together and connecting them with a metal rod but ...now that would be streching the rules, wouldn't it? and something I wouldn't do myself but would it be legal? Anyway I don't see any metal rods connecting her breakers.

Thanks


texts: Should storm windows be removed if AC will be on and windows rarely opened?

texts: We generally run our AC most of the day.  I am wondering if it is a detriment to leave the storm windows on (b/c they create a pocket of hot air) or a potential benefit (by reducing the escape of cold air).


texts:
We had a Daikin ductless system installed as a replacment for our old system that finally died.  We have 4 total units inside the house, with 1 in each of the 3 upstairs bedrooms and a larger 18K BTU unit on the main floor.  Its a small townhouse.

I have had a few weeks to observe how the units operate.  Each upstairs unit gets each bedroom to temp and cycles off.  Each of them will cycle back on and run briefly to keep the room at the temp they are set for.  The main floor unit never cycles off.  It runs constantly - even when it has reached the target temp.

Is this normal or could there be a problem with the main floor unit?  I have also closed off all the old vents and filled in the floor register with insulation to reduce any potential air leakage.

The model number for the unit in question is CTXG18QVJUW. I have also turned of the unit for a couple hours and turned it back on - still same issue. I even had the HVAC installer come back and put in a WiFi module on this particular unit, so I could monitor it another way and when I use the app it says the temp is higher than what it is set for and the unit is still running.

I appreciate any and all input.  Thank you!


texts: Connect Ceiling Light Fixture to Recessed Lighting Socket

texts: Is it possible to use the existing recessed lighting socket and black/white wires connected to the socket to connect a light fixture rather than removing the entire recessed canister and box and pulling the wires?  I would like a light fixture where the recessed light is, but would prefer not to destroy the ceiling to get to the wiring.


texts:
What is the best way to repair a pvc T joint that connects two 1 inch pipes and has a threaded half inch T extension, which has been stripped? I can't attach the sprinkler head to it without it leaking.

I have included a picture below.

Please let me know if you need additional information.


texts: After extreme rain for a week my pool breaker has flipped off twice and now won't reset.  Should I wait for the ground to dry or contact an electrician?


texts: I have a switch in my bathroom that controls both the fan and the light, and also has an outlet. Can I get anything that has two switches (one for the light and fan) and also not lose the outlet without having to drill and make space for an additional box?


texts: What can I do about a breaker that trips frequently on a Stab-Lok panel?

texts:
I have a 120V/20amp breaker that trips if I run a kettle boiler, toaster oven and microwave at the same time. The only other load on this circuit is a small computer/modem/wi-fi router running at < 55W (I have a meter on this part of the room).

The breaker does feel soft, and I was told it is old and tripping too soon (instead of when the load approaches 80% of 20AMPs). Is this assumption valid?

If yes, how do I order a replacement. Below is the panel and the breaker (last 20A one on the bottom). What is the model of this breaker so I can order online? I rent this house.

UPDATE 1: thanks to the strong warning & consensus here I've been able to convince the landlord to have a licensed electrician come take a look at the situation and hopefully replace the panel (with a new or possibly retrofitted one). I will update the question as the situation develops.

UPDATE 2: Both answers are of high quality and I am not sure which one to accept. I will wait a few days and accept the highest voted answer. I've been around SE sites for a while and just joined DIY.SE, but I think I will be using it very often. Thank you all for the great input!

FINAL UPDATE: Job done, new siemens panel installed:


texts: Patching a cracked concrete/brick walkway

texts:
A smallish part of the concrete/brick walkway leading up to my front door has broken off. The cracked piece is about six inches long by two inches wide.

How do I go about repairing this? Is this something I can reasonably do on my own? I have zero experience or knowledge in working with masonry.

Thanks


texts: Combining 3 wall switches, which are currently in the same box

texts:
These 3 switches are sharing the same hot wire in the same box. I want to combine them into 1 switch that will control all 3 lights. The lights are basic outdoor porch lights and are each on separate basic standard house switches. I want to eliminate 2 of the switches so all 3 can be activated by a single switch. I bought a more heavy duty switch to use even though I don't think I need it.
My plan is to use the hot wire that is there and pigtail the other 3 wires that control the lights.

Can you tell me if I'm heading in the right direction and if not, what Should I do? Thank you.


texts: TPI wall fan forced heater wiring question

texts: I'm trying to install(replace) a wall fan forced electric heater. There are three wires coming out my wall: black, white and bare copper. However, there are four wires coming out of the heater: two black and one blue connected to the motor and one green connected to the wall box. Out of the four wires coming from the heater, one black and the blue are tied together with a "L1" sign. The heater itself doesn't contain a thermostat. A separate thermostat was previously installed. Voltage used is 240V/208V. Can you help explain how I can connect the wires? Thanks!


texts: why does the hot water boiler used for heat, open up and release water then close back up?

texts: hot water boiler, occasionally opens and closes releasing water to floor. just started doing this (cold weather) does the relief valve need replaced? or is this a common action?


texts: How long must a refrigerator be left upright after being leaned at an angle before operation?

texts:
I moved a refrigerator. During the course of the move it was leaned over at 45 degrees several times and laid almost flat for 30 seconds or so.

How long should it sit vertical (upright) to let all the oil (in compressor, etc.) run to the right areas?


texts: I can’t stop a tail pipe leak after installing in bathroom sink

texts:
I installed a new faucet and tail pipe in a bathroom sink. It leaks where the tail pipe collar connects under the sink. I have done this type of bathroom faucet replacement probably 6 or 7 times over the years, so I know you can under tighten and over tighten the collar under the sink - the rubber gasket can get out of wack if you tighten the collar too much. But even knowimg that I can not get it to stop leaking right there. I have dismantled all of it a couple times, reapplied a rope of plumbers putty each time up top, made sure the new rubber gasket is inserted properly, tightened it down, and it still leaks.
I have no other ideas and it is getting frustrating. Yes I could call a professional out but I feel like I am so close. Plus I have to do the other sink’s faucet next (it’s a double sink countertop). Any ideas?


texts: How can I fix composite deck railing that wasn't installed with brackets?

texts: Had a contractor install a composite railing on my deck and he did not use brackets to secure the railings he just screwed it to the posts. This was 3 years ago, it looked great at first but, over the past 3 summers the rail have started to sag due to high heat, the putty is coming out of the screw holes and it doesn't seem safe. He is out of business and the company that manufactured the railings indicated their warranty was voided because the contractor didn't use brackets. Help..........is their any kind of bracket that could go over the 4x4's and attach to the railings. Maybe a bracket on each side that I could bolt through? Really can't afford to remove the railings and start over.


texts: Remote dimming in combination with glass wall switch

texts:
I'm looking for a way to control a dimmer remotely using one of those new fancy glass touch wall switches. I'm still free to choose any dimmer technology, altough I would prefer PWM dimming. This is for controlling an 12V/1A LED strip.

What I try to accomplish:

Most "Remote Control" wall switches control the switch remotely, not the "load".
The only two I've seen so far that perhaps may work are:

1) Sonoff RGB LED dimmer. Receiver is build into the under powered driver. Also not clear if it works with their wall switch.
https://sonoff.itead.cc/en/products/appliances/sonoff-led

2) KAKU (a Dutch 433mhz domotica system, sorry their website is only available in Dutch) which have a 433mhz sender which you can place behind a switch, which may work in conjunction with their receiver that can control a PWM input on a capable LED driver. I have sent an email to their support team, but I have doubts that this will play nicely together with those glass touch switches.

So basically I'm looking for products (or tips/hints/ideas) that can fulfil these requirements.


texts:
Please suggest some natural ant/insect repellent that I can use to get rid of the ants/ticks/insects.
I started using clorox but I would prefer something natural.

Thank you so much


texts: Possible to have wire mesh fencing plus a couple live wires for wild animals?

texts:
We bought a small former horse farm a few years a ago. We reinforced the old horse pasture with wire mesh fencing to keep our dogs in.

Now we want to fence in a wooded part of our property for the dogs. We want to continue to use the welded wire/mesh fence along with some T posts. However we have a slight black bear problem in our neighborhood. She has been known to wander into our yard to graze and look for fallen nuts near the winter. I've had to patch up our fence a couple of times. I've seen bears take down strong privacy fence too, so I was going to opt for the addition of an electric wire along the outside of the fence.

I'm worried about the hot wire touching the not hot welded wire and becoming less effective. I'm also worried about putting the insulators over the welded wire; not sure they will fit. Has anyone had experience with doing this combo?


texts:
I'm trying to identify a type of clamp that can hold some piece perpendicular to a surface. The clamp looks like two cylinders molded together by an arc shape. The arc shape exerts a spring force. See the figure below. Left: the red circle outlines the clamp. It is embedded in some epoxy, and the white rectangle is a blank label that can be seen through the epoxy. Please ignore the epoxy and the label. Right: a side-view schematic of the clamp (not to scale).
In the photo on the left, the part is holding "piece held in place" perpendicular to the circular faces of the epoxy. In the schematic on the right, the black lines represent a cross-section of the clamp itself. The physical cross section should have about 1mm thickness.
I want to order the clamp itself, but do not know what search terms to use. The clamp material is a type of plastic, though I'm pretty sure metal ones are also sold. Please direct me to the right community if this is not the proper place for this question.


texts: Light fixture in basement with a light switch that has an outlet next to it ........light won't work now

texts:
I recently replaced my light fixture in the basement.

The second time I flipped it on, it made a buzzing noise and went out.

When I do a wire test, the light outlet wires are getting no power. At the light box switch the outlet is getting power but the switch isn't.

The black wire from one set goes to the switch and the other wire hooked to it is another black bridging wire to the plug in the outlet.

and hooks he the side white and all which ones are hooked to the the back side of the plugin.

No ground on the switch but there's one on the plugin outlet. No ground on light fixture as well.

How do I fix this?


texts: I need to know how to replace a water damaged wood rotten stud in a wall

texts: I just bought a house built in 1930. The previous owners had a crack in the shower. I need to know how to replace the stud that holds up that wall as it is now rotten from water damage. The drywall is also rotten. The wall is not load bearing. And there's also water damage in the floor. My main concern at the moment is the stud. Also it should be noted that I stopped the leak for the time being.


texts: Retrofitting drip edges with a wooden spacer?

texts:
I'm preparing to install gutters, but I've noticed that rain just flows down my fascia boards.  I anticipate having a problem with water going behind the gutters.  I saw this Q&A, but the solution I'm considering isn't mentioned there.

This site argues that there's supposed to be a wooden strip behind the metal drip edge, to force the water to fall from the corner instead of flowing down the fascia.  This makes perfect sense to me, but at the same time, I'm a little skeptical because this is the only mention of it I've found.  (The reason nobody does this, they say, is because roofers don't do carpentry.)

So my question is, would it be a good idea to try to retrofit my roof with these wooden drips?  If so, is there any reason I shouldn't reuse the existing metal drip edge?


texts: My GE Profile refrigerator's water dispenser started making a noise when drawing water and I replaced the filter with the bypass insert. Now the noise has stopped but no water comes out. What could have caused the rattling sound that has now stopped and why can't I get water with the bypass in?


texts:
I had the extra wire in the wires run from my thermostat to my A/C, but the old thermostat did not need the C wire, so it was cut and stuff on both ends.  While installing the new thermostat I realized that a C wire is needed, so I pulled out the stuff wire in the wall and attached it to the C on the thermostat.  Went down stairs, opened the A/C unit and found that there isn't a C connection on the board.  There is a W, R and G and it appears the Y goes out to the A/C compressor outside.  My question is, am I able to cut one of the wires from the transformer on the 24v side that I think is the common side, it's grounded, and simply use a wire nut to connect everything back together while splicing in the wire that was unused, now making it the C wire?  here is a picture.   I was going to cut 1 of the 3 blue wires.  It's hard to see in the pic, but there are 3 square terminals on the blue side that 3 wires attach to.  Please help and thank you =)
http://i.imgur.com/Hk0US7J.jpg

side note, only terminals on the a/c board are W, R and G.  The yellow wire doesn't even attach to the board, but connects to another wire that looks like it runs out to my a/c compressor outside.


texts: How do I tap into the PEX water supply line?

texts: The water supply line for my ice maker was never connected. So I want to know how to tap into the PEX water supply line to allow connection to the ice maker.


texts: When finishing drywall, is it a common practice not to mud the bottom of horizontally-hung drywall?

texts:
I hung drywall horizontally in my bedroom and hired a company to mud and tape it so that I could prime and paint.  As you know, drywall sheets are recessed along the edges in order to hold drywall compound.  Well, they did not mud along the bottoms of any of the walls where the drywall sheets recess.  Shouldn't they have even so much as applied a sloppy layer of mud to fill the recess so that my base moulding would have something flat to be attached to?  Otherwise, when I go to put on the base moulding, it's going to dip inward.

Here's a picture of a corner in my room where the bottoms are entirely unfinished.  It seems like the bevelled edges along the bottoms of these sheets should have been filled in to provide a flat, vertically level surface to hold moulding.


texts:
I have a shower tub steam combo of an unknown brand, installed by the previous owner, and I accidentally hit the steam outlet pod, which came off.

The pipe it was attached to also came off :

How can I fix this mess ?


texts: What conductor and burial depth are appropriate for my garage subpanel circuit?

texts:
We are building a 2-story detached garage. The upstairs will be my wife's studio. She is a painter and quilter. The lower level will be a standard garage for tools, etc. I do not plan to weld but who knows about the future.

I am thinking a 60 amp subpanel. The distance would be 70 feet or less from main panel to sub panel. I plan to run PVC pipe underground. What depth does that have to be in Kentucky? Also would using burial cable inside the PVC be added protection? Number of conductors and size? We will have a hotel type air conditioner heater that calls for 208V-230V


texts: Water pipe rapid knocking - only in early hours of morning, outside tap problem? (UK)

texts:
Old house. We started getting a rapid knocking in pipes a few months back. usually at somewhere between 1am and 5am, but sometimes earlier turning water on anywhere stops it, but it comes back again, usually.

There is an outside tap connected to float valve to top up pond in case of critical drop in water level. which is always on. Turning this off seems to stop it mostly, but there are occasions when it still does the knocking when this tap is off.

Another outside tap, higher up (house built into hill) that has a bit of a leak out of "stem" when turned on.

This is driving us insane, and can't work out what the critical element is. It sounds like it is a trapped air problem.
Is it

temperature drop overnight
water not being run overnight (e.g. would do it during the day but taps being used)
air ingress through higher outside tap causing the knocking
the float valve (but why still happens when that tap is turned off)

Going to replace the valve in the higher tap, but anyone any other ideas?

EDIT 1:

Replaced higher outside tap (had seized up, so couldn't just do
washer) - No change
Discounted work on supply outside - spoke to
Yorkshire Water and there has been no change - awaiting call back
from engineers.
Discounted temp difference (warm / cold nights)
Discounted the lower outside tap with float valve on as have been
turning off tap at night, but still get knocking.

Current working hypothesis - higher pressure at night due to reduced demand on the network is causing the tapping, probably in the house stop tap - this is a bit weepy, so wonder if the washer is knackered in there.


texts: Subwoofer in a 5.1 surround Possible with outputs?

texts:
I am collecting speakers for a 5.1 surround!

Now I have found a subwoofer which looks nice it's an active subwoofer.

But it has this connections:

it has stereo input and output for speakers!
My surround receiver has an subwoofer jack output, so only subwoofer signal.
Can I still use it in my surround set?

I Hope you guys can help!


texts: Using Porcelain tile on a concrete pad outside

texts:
I have a small(ish) - about 12ft x 12ft concrete pad on the back of the house covered by the house's roof with 2 walls exposed. The concrete pad appears to be solid - no major cracks, flat and level.

Dad and I just finished laying ceramic tile for my brother in a sun room on a concrete pad also - we used a blue tile membrane (tile store recommended it) and it worked out really well - easy to use, cut, install and the tile feels nice and solid.

Using this same material and installing my porcelain tile on it; preparing the surface properly (scraping, cleaning with power washer, etc...) is there any reason I can't or shouldn't install tile outside in a state where it can snow pretty significantly in the winter? In Buffalo, NY, so we can expect 1 foot of snow or 12 any given season. Even when it snows, the roof keeps most of the pad pretty clean.

The purpose is just to dress up the space. I built a brick pizza oven on this pad years ago; have this tile left over so... why not use it.


texts: Grounding a switch that has no ground screw or wire

texts:
I have a timer switch (see photo 1) that has No Grounding Screw and ** No Grounding Wire** protruding from it.  It is to be installed into a plastic gang box and replace a switch which is currently grounded by a wire.

The power source for this switch comes from a GFCI circuit.

Should I ground the timer switch by wrapping it around the screw attached to the yoke like the second photo.

Black Hot
White Neutral
Blue Load


texts: How to anchor brick vertically to concrete slab

texts:
Here's a concrete slab porch that was finished with paving bricks on top, and then matching pavers attached to the vertical front face with what appears to be some form of Liquid Nails.  The pavers sit on dirt.  The adhesive is failing to adhere them to the concrete.

What other materials or methods might durably hold these vertical pavers in place?


texts: What is the name of this ceiling fan part?

texts:
I just replaced the light pull switch on my ceiling fan, but I'm having trouble putting the fan back together.  The wires were very short in the original install and I had to leave a little more room to connect the new pull.

The problem is that now the U-shaped bracket that houses the switch won't reconnect because it's too short (1 1/4") to be reattached with the extra wire above it. I have to reinstall it because it is part of the globe attachment.

It's a U-shaped piece with three small holes in each side (for the bolt that attaches to main part of the fan) and it has a hole in the bottom for the pull to drop through.  The hole also allows the male part of the globe connector to go through.

I've been all over the web and can't figure out what this part is called - if I don't know the name I can't order the right part.  I'd probably need one that is 1 1/2" long in order to accommodate the new wires.  Please help!!


texts: Is it safe for a CFL bulb in a ceiling fixture to touch the glass of the fixture itself?

texts:
My fixture is an old style one with a 2 1/2" clearance from the top edge of the fixture to the ceiling.

Any advice?

Concerned homeowner 47


texts: Keeping heating wires secured to roof during snow removal

texts:
I have heating wires on my roof but still got bad ice dams the first winter I lived here. This caused leaking and I got my roof repaired. The 2nd year I used a roof shovel and heating elements. That worked great but I ended up pulling the wires down. I made it through that winter but it seems those clips to hold the wires onto the shingles can't be reused.

I can't seem to find a place that sells them. I tried putting the wires back. The first time I used my roof shovel I pulled just about all my wires down. What's the best way to keep those wires on the roof?

If I can't find really good wire clips then I guess I will buy a bucketload of clips and reinstall my wires each year but I don't know where to get them without buying the entire kit with heating wires.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Is it a problem if a bookcase isn’t fully touching the floor?

texts: IKEA assemblers have screwed a large bookcase (180cm height x 160cm width x 40cm depth) into my wall where the top is 10mm from the wall and the base is 17mm from from wall, meaning the bookcase doesn’t sit squarely on the floor and the outer edge is lifted by around 3-4mm. Should I be worried? Should I be worried the screws in the wall or the bookcase gets damaged?


texts: Should I remove, or work around dividing basement walls?

texts:
The basement of my house is bare concrete floor with bare concrete block walls.  I'm in Canada and would like to (and should) insulate these walls, at least the above-grade portion, which is about 18".  The previous home-owner installed two dividing walls that make contact with the brick but there is no other framing along the perimeter of the basement.

If I'm going to put up insulation against the outer wall, should I remove the existing wall, at least the studs connecting to the brick first to provide a good heat seal, or leave them in place and insulate around them?

For context, the plan is to eventually finish the basement completely but begin with the heat losses.


texts: Is my pneumatic nail gun jamming because I've never oiled it?

texts:
My nail gun has been jamming, i just recently read that I'm supposed to be oiling it which  i have never done. Where do I oil it?

Also i wanna know if you guys think this is my problem by telling you what happens: nothing wrong with air pressure and not my firing pin because it will leave a indent in the wood but just no nail sometimes and sometimes two nails get jammed in or one nail is half way out and half way still in gun with another nail behind it.

Any ideas on what my problem is?, could all this be because lack of oil??? Thanks for any help. I am a beginner with all this.


texts: How can I remove hair dye stains from a porcelain sink?

texts:
Anyone have any suggestions about how to do this?  I've tried Comet, bleach and windex, all applied with plenty of elbow grease, but the stains aren't budging.

Any other ideas?


texts: What type of door can be used for a utility room?

texts:
I currently have a louvered door to get into my utility room. The gaps in the door don't allow the basement to keep heat in. Is there a needed code that doesn’t allow for a solid wood door, or am I OK in installing one?

I’m in Denver, and the water heater and furnace is in the utility room


texts:
An electrician came over today for an inspection, and pointed out that the GFCI's we have in the bathroom, kitchen and garage are only 15Amp; they claim that code requires 20Amp GFCIs in these locations. Is this correct (for a house built in 1971)?

All rooms are serviced by their own 20Amp circuits.

I'm fine with replacing them if required by code, but if he's just trying to get money out of me, I'd rather leave them (he wanted just over $900 to change 6)


texts: How necessary is it to put sealer on a painted dresser?

texts: I sanded and painted a wooden dresser. The rep at Lowe's said I don't need a separate sealer, but that sounds fishy to me. Should I put sealer on it too?


texts: How to approach fixing this kitchen sink faucet leak at the base

texts:
When I run a lot of water in my kitchen sink, a small amount leaks out at the base of the faucet.  The first photo below shows the little pool of water and the second photo shows the whole faucet.  (I did not see a make or model number on the faucet.)

How might I go about finding out what is wrong and fixing it?

Thanks.


texts: How should I install a plywood subfloor that will be covered by granite tiles?

texts:
I am replacing my entryway floor and I have removed the old mud bed. I'm left with planks perpendicular to the joists. However the room is defined at a 45 degrees angle from the joists, so the planks and the joists underneath them appear diagonal (it looks like an X).

I plan to install one layer of 3/4 inch plywood over the planks, and a layer of 1/2 inch plywood over the 3/4 inch plywood.

Along which direction should I install the plywood? If I install them along the directions of the room then they will be at a 45 degrees angle with the planks and the joist. I know that usually plywood are installed perpendicular to the joists but what about my case? Would this be ok?

When I screw the 1/2 inch plywood, should the deck screws only penetrate the planks or should they go through the planks and penetrate the joists as well?


texts: Should I insulate the garage in the home I'm having built?

texts:
I am an amateur woodworker and am having a new home built. My part-time workshop will be in the garage. Where I live (central Maryland), the winters are often cold (below freezing) and occasionally much colder (+10F/-10C and below). My current home has no insulation in the garage walls or attic, so I use an electric space heater, which is almost useless when it's really cold. I am considering having the garage in the new home insulated, since it will be much easier to do before the drywall is up.

The builder is using R-20 for the exterior walls of the living spaces, but I don't need it to be insulated enough so that I can live there, I just don't want my fingers to freeze off! I am still planning on using the space heater. The entire house will have Tyvek housewrap, including the garage (whether I choose to insulate it or not).

My question is: what level of insulation should I request? The builder wants to know what level of insulation I want before they give me a quote on the price (and I can determine if it's worth it). Do I also need to have the garage door and attic insulated to see any benefit, or can I just get by with the walls? (The walls are the critical part, since I can easily add insulation to the attic and door after the fact).

A secondary question would be: is it worth it at all? One possible answer is to do nothing and just wait for warmer weather -- it's a hobby, not a profession.

UPDATE: I've asked the builder for the pricing for R-15 in the walls (can't do R-20, since the garage is framed with 2x4s, not 2x6s) and blown insulation in the attic. Still waiting to hear back from them.

UPDATE 2: The builder has quoted me over US$1400 to insulate it. Yeah, that's only $100/year, but I think I'll just wear an extra sweater, because it's not worth that much to me.


texts: Do I need to use any wood protector for my deck?

texts:
I bought my house 5-6 months ago and I think they made a new deck but I don't think so they used any protector etc. Seems like they installed and didn't do anything else, during winter time water was sitting in the deck and color got a little bit different now.

Can I use Thompson's Water Seal?

Would be enough if I use 1 gallon?

How often should I reapply?

Here some photos

https://ibb.co/b5xDao

https://ibb.co/jEkS1T

https://ibb.co/hgS1T8

Thank you


texts: Should I use water-resistant lumber for siding?

texts:
Our house has a frame exterior, and rests on a pier-and-beam foundation with a brick chainwall around the sides.

We recently had the house leveled, and that resulted in a gap of several inches between the chainwall and the bottom row of siding.

Finding replacement siding for an old house like this is nearly impossible, so I want to fill the gap with a 1x6, painted to match the house.

But since the wood will be in contact with the brick foundation (and, on the porch, with the concrete porch, should I use "blue" (water-treated) wood?

I'd normally use treated lumber for anything in contact with concrete, not to mention anything outdoors, but I'm afraid that the treated lumber won't take paint well.

If it's not going to paint well, will a coat of paint on the back/bottom of the wood be enough to protect the wood from rotting due to condensation where it meets the concrete/brick?


texts: Should I apply rigid insulation between existing basement framing?

texts:
I'm replacing wood paneling in my basement with drywall.  There are 1x furring strips attached to the cinder block and covered with tar paper, and the wood paneling was attached to those strips.

Before I put up the drywall, would it make sense to put some thin styro between furring strips and cover it with tar paper, then drywall?  Or, would this create a moisture problem and mold growth in the walls?


texts: How urgent is it to fix cracks in foundation?

texts:
I have a house with a floating slab floor built on a cement foundation.  There is a crack in the foundation that is 1/8 inch wide which has existed since before I moved in 4 years ago.  I never thought it was a problem until a guy (who is in concrete repair sales ) told me I should get it fixed.

Unless the crack gets wider or there are observable problems in the house, I'm considering not addressing it at all.  Is this a bad strategy?

If I do wait to fix it, will it likely be much more expensive down the road?


texts: Why is our water heater running the burner for so long and why is the relief valve running?

texts:
We have a gas water heater. Sadly, it's covered in a layer of insulation that obscures all the labeling (that's probably illegal, come to think of it), so I don't know the manufacturer or the year it was installed, but if it was new to the house, it was installed in about 2003.

It has a relief valve that runs to a dedicated pipe in the ground. As of late, this pipe has been dripping a little bit, but it decided to flow some more today - not a full release on the valve, but still a significant flow nonetheless.

We opened up a hot water faucet on the same story for a few minutes, and the flow slowed to its usual level, where it remains as of this writing. Neither the water from the faucet nor the water from the valve were particulary hot for a water heater - about 130-135F. We do not own a pressure meter.

However, the burner had been running during the entire process and even after we had opened the faucet to slow the relief valve (it was running for about 1 hour 15 minutes in all). I didn't hear any water leaking from anywhere, just a uniform hiss from the burner.

The burner did eventually turn off. I don't know if 1:15 is common for a water heater to run for, and the burner not stopping doesn't seem like a common problem. Also, I just checked the heater - the burner's still off and relief valve isn't running too much, but there is a consistent hiss from the relief valve itself. A very light tap caused a few extra drops to spill out.


texts: How to remove built-in shelf without damaging

texts:
I have an angled shelf I'd like to remove from an old built-in unit in the house. However, I can't see how it is secured. It is solid wood and is very sturdy. Appears to be some glue at the seams (last pic). Attached are some pictures. Would like to do the least amount of damage possible.

https://ibb.co/BNXqQQt
https://ibb.co/7pBgcXN
https://ibb.co/8PznNJD
https://ibb.co/D72Ypvn


texts: Can I make PVC pipe into a decent indoor column?

texts:
I have a beam between the living room and dining room which is load bearing.  We've already placed the laminate around the base, so I'm not entertaining further ideas of moving the posts.  I'd like to move from walls to columns so the two rooms appear a little roomier.

Round columns are expensive.  I could buy a lathe and make my own for the cost of commercially built columns, and they aren't readily available in the sizes and shapes for a half wall column, so will take time to obtain. If we go square it's just trim boards and done, but I'm interested in having a cylindrical column, without the cost and time.

PVC pipe is cheap and readily available, though.  I'm thinking about doing this:

Use 6 or 8 inch PVC
Split it lengthwise
Fill it with expanding foam
Place it around the studs while the expanding foam is still soft
Use pvc glue along the split edges and straps to hold it
Secure it at the base and top
Sand, prime, paint

I'm going to widen the beam and build a wide half-wall base for the column to sit on, and use two half-pipes for the studs sticking out from the wall. We'll use appropriate trim for the base and capital.

My questions are: is this a reasonable process?  What problems can I expect building it, or in the long run? Am I going to end up spending more time and money on this than doing it the "correct" way? Is there a primer I can use that will stick to the PVC? Will the expanding foam be enough to make it sound and feel, perhaps not as solid as wood, but more than a PVC pipe?


texts: I have an older home that used to be a 2 family-side by side,  It has 2 individual water systems and 2 individual water meters.  Is it possible to eliminate the older system and meter by connecting the plumbing system to the better side of the house thus having only 1 meter, 1 water bill, 1 hot water heater, etc?


texts:
I have an old roof that has leaked after a big rain storm this week. I will definitely need to replace the roof, but I am wondering if I need to do something about the water that has already leaked into the walls to prevent mold damage.

The leak is visible inside the house where the ceiling meets the wall. Also, one of the windows frame in the wall has developed a large crack next to the frame and water was leaking in from the crack when it was raining. (photos attached).

Would the water in the wall dry by itself over time without mold damage if I replace the roof ( and therefore fix the source of the leak )? Or, would the amount of water that has already leaked into the wall be an emergency and I need to immediately take out the drywall to dry the wall?

Also, would I wait to dry the wall after replacing the roof, which may take 1-2 weeks, or is it an emergency and I need to dry the inside of the wall now?

I unfortunately have a cathedral ceiling and don't have the skills to go into the tight spaces into the attic to check for extent of water damage. Because of general corona virus concerns, The roofing companies I've contacted refuses to come into the house to look at the leak, but only wants to give me quotes for roof replacement. I'm concerned though that roof replacement won't dry the existing wall.


texts: How do I connect two 220V devices each with 12/2 wire to a 220V 12/3 feed?

texts:
I have a two devices I need to connect to a 220V feed on 12/3 wire.

Previously there was/is 1 device connected but the connections from the feed to the 12/2 wire was done inside a ball of tape buried in the ground. (http://yfrog.com/h2bg1edj)

So it's 12/3 wire from home, to ugly ball where it's twisted together, to 12/2 wire to switch, to pump.  I need to also add a heater to that switch. What's the best way to do that?

(Also a note: I'm pretty sure it's a GFCI breaker (since it's an outdoor location))


texts:
I am replacing an old dimmer switch with no ground wire with a dimmer switch that has a ground wire.

The metal box in my wall is grounded, but there is no ground screw or anywhere else to attach the ground wire from the switch.

Is it safe to simply cap off the wire, or should I remove it from the dimmer box?  Even if it is capped off, the insulated portion will be touching other wires inside box due to limited space.


texts:
I replaced an old double switch with a new one and now nothing turns on. Both are 15a 125v. Looking at the old switch : on the left, two white wires going to two gold screws above/below each other; on the right, two black wires going to two gold screws above/below each other; and one ground soldered to the bottom of the unit on metal (no screw).

The new double switch has gold screws on the left, and black screws on the right, with on ground screw below the black screws.

I put the black wires to the black screws and the white to the gold. Then put the green ground wire to the ground screw. Now nothing works. So I put the white wires to the black screws and the black wire to the gold. Still no change. Should I put the black wires back to the black screws but flip them (from top to bottom) same with white?


texts: How can I combine two switches on two circuits on 1 timer switch?

texts:
I just purchased my first house (new construction) and I got tired of remembering to switch the outdoor lights on/off every day. So, I got a Honeywell solar econoswitch, which is essentially a timer switch that knows when the sun goes up and down through long/lat.

There are 5 lights total outside, 2 connected to one normal switch and 3 connected to a 3-way switch. Each switch is on a different circuit. I have already successfully connected the econoswitch to the 2 lights on the normal switch. But ideally want all 5 lights connected to this econoswitch. I'm a new comer to DIY electricity so I'm a little nervous and want to make sure I do it right. I drew a diagram how it's connected right now-

The parts that i'm not sure on are:

1.There are two neutral lines on different circuits. Do I connect them together if I combine the switches?

2.How do I connect the three way switch? I understand I'll probably lose functionality on the other switch the 3-way is connected to and that's fine but I want to know best way to do this.


texts: Should I remove vinyl flooring before laying down hardwood?

texts: I'm putting hardwood floors in my kitchen and living room, which next to each other.  The kitchen has vinyl flooring, so it is slightly higher than the living room, which has carpet on subfloor.  I want the hardwood to be at the same level in both rooms so I don't need a threshold between the rooms. Is it possible to remove the vinyl? I imagine it is glued down.


texts: Can Smart Switches work with Smart Bulbs?

texts:
I recently got my first Smart Bulb for a living room lamp & I love it:

My Google Assistant can see it
I can turn it on & off using Google Assistant voice commands
I can change the lighting color using Google Assistant voice commands

Now, I want to try the same kind of thing for my outside & hallway lights.  My initial research says:

Smart Bulbs are good for Lamps
Smart Switches are good for hallways (and such)

But, I do not see anything talking about using BOTH at the same time.

I want to be able to turn on/off my hallways (or other areas) lighting using voice commands.  But I also want to be able to change the color with my Google Assistant too.

Is this possible?
How do I do it?
What are the pitfalls?

Thank you.


texts: Refrigerator is not making ice or serving water

texts:
UPDATE 3

I replaced the water filter with a brand new one from Home Depot. When I went to dispense water, about 1/2 a cup came out. That's the first time any water has come out of the dispenser. Over the next hour, I tried dispensing more water. One time a blast of water came out, but every other time I would just hear water bubbling and gurgling in the freezer door. I thought maybe things just needed to fill up since it hadn't been used in a while, but now it's back to how it was before I got the new filter. I press the button to dispense water, and I hear a 'click' and a motorized sound, but no water dispenses.

Could my lines be clogged?

UPDATE 2

I forgot to mention that I've thought it was weird that this guy was sticking out and was so visible. It looks like it's a water supply line that goes up the freezer door, on the left. Could the plumber have tweaked this?

UPDATE

With the help of Jimmy-Fix-It, I was able to get the water filter removed after applying considerable force. Water dribbled out, and it was, as expected, filled with water.

After I removed the filter, I took a cup and tried to get water out of door, and about 1 Tbs came out. No water has come out since.

We just moved in to a new home. The former owner was in the field of risk management/disaster cleanup, and so when they put the house up for sale, they disabled the refrigerator's ability to make ice and serve water. We didn't realize this of course until after we moved in. I spoke with him on the phone, and he told me he had his plumber essentially disable the ice making/water serving abilities of the fridge. He was supposed to send his plumber out to turn it back on, but he's stopped returning my emails.

I've pulled the fridge (an LG LSC26905) out from the wall. The water line is connected just fine to the refrigerator, and I've confirmed that the water is in fact on (coming from the wall). It's a simple silver flex tube coming from the wall with a blue valve that is in the 'on' position. I disconnected from the fridge and verified that water is coming out at a very good rate. I can't figure out where the plumber might have disabled or prevented the water from flowing through the rest of the system.

The only other thing I've noticed, and I'm not sure it's related, is that the water filter will not come out. It looks to be pretty old, and for the life of me I can not pull it out. I'm wondering if perhaps the filter is old and clogged and that's preventing water from flowing through the system? I've twisted both directions, pushed up, pulled down; it's not budging.


texts: How to draw cross section of this plan by hand?

texts: Please tell how to draw cross section of this plan draw and tell roughly.


texts: Should I replace old blow in attic insulation with new roll out insulation?

texts:
I have attic filled with old grey blow in insulation. I estimate it to be 20-30 years old. I suspect that it causes a lot of dust in a house. Plus any work in attic would stir it and some will end up in rooms.
So should I just remove it and replace with new insulation that comes in rolls? I think it would insulate better, too.

Pros and cons?


texts:
i am setting a multizone, 3 zone, system.
Zone 1: 4 led puck lights
Zone 2: 2 led puck lights
Zone 3: 1 led strip.
Each zone will be controlled by its own dimmer and a 4 zone remote control.
Can this all be configured to use a single power source, rated accordingly, or do I need to put each zone on its own power supply?. These zones are physically very close so I think 3 different power supplies will be an overkill.
Is it possible?
Thanks


texts: What's the purpose of this bundle of small wires in my closet?

texts:
I recently bought a house.  In one of the closets, there is a small room with a bunch of wires, connections, etc.

I'm in the process of figuring out what exactly is going on to see if I can use any of it.  Pictured here, I've got the most confusing bit:   (I can take more pictures if needed)

Those small wires at the top get separated into 3 blue wires that leave together.
The small blue wire at the bottom connects to another Ethernet cable in another part of the room.
The two grey wires that go to the bottom of the screen is really just one wire (to long to include in the picture.

What's going on here?

Edit: More Photos


texts: Cap icemaker water line under sink-cap leaks

texts: Following the suggestions on this site, I bought a 1/4" compression cap for the unused icemaker water line under the sink.  After installing it with Teflon tape, water is still spewing out.  I noticed that the icemaker line I removed has a male piece that plugs into the supply line and then a female nut to tighten it to the line.  Is there a cap that would have such a piece that would go into the line to improve the fit?


texts: Are there any restrictions for drilling holes in solid lumber joists regarding how close to the ends of the joist?

texts:
I've read to not drill a hole greater than 1/3 the depth of the board (I want to drill a 3/4" hole in a 12" board for wiring, so that won't be an issue) as well as not to do it within two inches of the edges. Mine will be approximately 6" from one end.

Are there any restrictions as to how close to the ends of the board I can go with the hole?

Is the "end" of a joist, one of its "edges" (and therefore any holes must be 2" from the end)?


texts:
I am installing brick veneer around a fireplace and on the hearth, but am having trouble thinking of the best way to finish it along the floor.

There’s about 3/4 inch clearance between the floor and the bottom of the brick. I’ve tried cutting slices off the edge of other veneers and staggering them (as a standard brick pattern such that it would look like it’s going into the floor), but cutting them to 3/8 thickness without breaking has proved difficult. I’ve also thought about putting down a square dowel and/or shoe molding, as well as cutting the face of the existing front corner bricks in half so that I could place larger slices along the floor (the hearth is not mortared down yet). Painting/refinishing cut sides is not a huge deal, as matte acrylic paint seems to work well.

Any suggestions on how to give this a nice finish along the floor? Thank you!


texts: Which carpet for a swivel chair to roll easily?

texts:
I'm about to replace an old carpet in my new house. I need the new carpet to be very well adapted for a swivel chair to roll on it easily. Not that I spend my time rolling when working, but I hate when I feel that my chair is like planted in the ground.

Which kind of carpet do you advise?


texts: Do I need wall lining between a bathtub and insulation

texts:
Following up on my previous question about tiling over the tub lip I am trying to figure out how it is all going to fit together. Below is the bathtub picture. The long edge is going to be against the external wall.
The wall is Brick > Air gap > House wrap > Studs with glasswool insulation > Lining? > Bathtub
I am at the stage of installing the lining. I am confused about how to get the lining to sit on top of the lip so the tile can go over.

Secure insulation in place with straps, slide the tub against studs, install the lining from the ceiling to the lip.
Install the lining, slide the tub against it, install 2nd layer of lining to the lip?

Originally I was going to waterproof the wall and floor and slide the tub against the wall, tile to the lip or maybe even behind the tub, and silicone between the lip and tiles.


texts: Shorter runs should get smaller duct sizes?

texts: We have some long runs in our house. Assuming there isn't too much blockage in the flex duct, would it make sense to reduce some of the very short runs from 6" to 4", for example a bonus room window vent, since the bonus room circulates air extremely well, in order to improve airflow for the longer run to bonus room #2?


texts: What is the purpose of these spare rings for an HVAC blower motor?

texts:
I recently replaced the blower motor and wheel for our HVAC unit. The motor came with four of these spare rings:

There is already an identical ring attached around what I would call the front shaft (spindle?) bearing. You can see it here:

(This shot doesn't show the split.)If it's some sort of shipping retainer, why would there be extras? And if this ring can become dislodged and fall off, thus requiring spares, this is a serious problem, as this ring being tossed around inside the blower wheel while it's running could probably do serious damage. This leads me to believe that this is not their purpose, either. So just what purpose do these spare rings serve?


texts: How to get rid of a permanent old people smell?

texts:
I'm living in a new place. On the second floor there is somebody who smells really bad, when I'm walking up the stairs its like a nursing home x 10 on that floor. I'm on the 4th and when I keep the windows open its fine but after having them closed for around a day or so, the smell creeps up here.

Keeping a window open every day isn't really practical since it goes down to -30C around here in the winter so what do you guys suggest to avoid the smell? I saw a commercial for an automatic air freshener for bathrooms in the tv once, are those any good?


texts:
According to the diagram below the two (non-GFCI) downstream receptacles are said to be GFCI protected.  Does this mean that if someone were to accidentally create a ground fault at either of the two rightmost receptacles the GFCI receptacle in the middle would trip and cut off power to all receptacles downstream from it?

GFCI diagram http://www.jimspect.com/livesite/wp-content/uploads/Receptacle-Type-GFCI-Protection.png

Is there anything wrong with replacing the two rightmost receptacles with GFCI receptacles?

Finally, if you did perform this replacement and if you pressed the TEST button on the rightmost GFCI receptacle, would the two GFCI receptacles upstream also trip?


texts: Nearly all of the GFCI and ARC Fault breakers trip when power returns after an outage .  This is a home setting, 200 amp main with a 100 amp generator main.  This has been wired with no problems since 2006.  It has happened twice in a row in two weeks.  Since we are gone alot, it posses a refrigeration concern.  Any ideas?


texts: What tool is used to tighten a short pipe nipple?

texts: What tool is used to tighten a short 1/2” x 1 1/2” nipple that screws into a shower valve behind the wall? Well a nipple extractor work if you turn it in the opposite direction (clockwise )?


texts: Using hanging pendant with heavy glass bottle?

texts:
I'm thinking of purchasing several of these hanging pendants for our house, but I'll be using a glass bottle to cover the lightbulb, so the end-result is something like this: wine bottle hanging pendant.

My concern is that these glass bottles are heavy, and the weight will damage the electric cord, and eventually snap.

What do you suggest? Is it an unnecessary concern?

Is there an add-on I can purchase (or some other trick) that will support the additional weight of the bottle?

I was initially thinking of a hanging light cord, but this one has a visible light switch. The reason I selected this particular hanging pendant is because it doesn't have a visible dimmer.


texts: I have several 2" wide by 6' long spaces between the original patio slab and the newer slab that was poured after original construction of the house. The porch is covered so no moisture is getting  inbut I need to fill/patch these gaps. I need some help.


texts: Drywall ceiling in basement of multi family dwelling required by IBC

texts:
In a multi family dwelling is a drywall ceiling required by IBC in basement area  below living area? 5/8 X?  Property has 9 dwelling units in Baltimore City which uses IBC latest updates 2017. Area of concern in basement was previously a 10th unit but being converted to basement/utility/storage and part of old ceiling has been removed. The main part of basement is equipped with heat sensors connected to fire alarm system due to furnaces/water heaters. In that part of basement sheetrock is not required due to the heat sensors.

Another property has a 'basement' area dug out in the center of the building. The rear portion which is under the first and second floor apartments has a crawl space and a heat sensor but the front portion which is under a one story room of the first floor apartment has no sensor.  Is one required under IBC?


texts: Best way to cover stair using concrete retaining wall block

texts:
I have spent 3 days creating this stair and I still don't like to look. The reason is that I have tons of those retaining wall blocks so I have to use them all to create the stair.

The first try was to have 1 block row per step and that was too narrow to walk (only 7" depth). The second try was to put retaining wall cap (8" depth) on top but that was still not long enough for human foot.

The last try is to 'double' the row to 2 blocks and now I have 14" depth to walk. This is acceptable to me as I tested it. BUT now I have a huge problem with somewhat an ugly look. Plus they are not really tight and move around.

This is the block:

Source: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Tranquil-Flagstone-Concrete-Retaining-Wall-Block-Common-11-in-x-4-in-Actual-11-6-in-x-4-in/3722164

My question is how best to secure and cover the stair?

I have some options:

Use 14x14 (2" thick) concrete pavers to put on top. It's possible but then I am wasting the blocks on the bottom as they are completely covered now.
Fill crushed rocks in between the cracks and leave them be. I know they will fall apart. So maybe I put some retaining bracket in the bottom and top row?
Fill concrete in between the triangle gaps. But I am wondering if the concrete will crack?
Fill in "something else" like gap filler to prevent cracking but also cover the cracks / gaps? I don't know what materials to use here.
Completely pull this apart and buy something else for the stairs. Wasted 3-day.

I am leaning toward Option 4 but just don't know what to buy. Also the color is Tranquil so I don't know if the outcome will look ugly (in a different way).

Please help.


texts: How far in can tile be installed around bathtub window?

texts:
I was wondering how far in can tile be placed around the window sill of a bathtub window?  The glass window and the tile may be close to flush or about 1/8 inch from the glass part of the window.

Is that normal?  Are there installation codes or code requirements that say this cannot be done or that specify how far the tile must be from the window?

:)


texts: Starting point of herringbone pattern with double accent border

texts:
I'm excited to attempt a complex entryway pattern, but I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to start.
The idea is to have a herringbone pattern with 36" x 6" large format wood look porcelain tile centered in a surrounding symmetric double border separated from the herringbone pattern by schiene edge strip. The outside border is also finished with edge strip where it transitions at doorways.
The floor has been prepped, stratamat has been applied measurements and planning have been completed but I'm having trouble figuring out the best starting point to avoid having tight spaces with the trowel or not being able to place the leveling clips and wedges [levtec] on the right spots where the border would meet the herringbone pattern. Perhaps over thinking it a bit.

The top of this design is actually facing eastward toward the front door and the bottom branches out to the left into a hallway and on the right a kitchen. Refer to floor plan.

From what I read you are supposed to start the herringbone pattern centered on the floor but I feel like working outwards would leave little room for troweling adhesive between the wall and the herringbone pattern without making a mess, however I feel like the levtec wedges can be placed better, and if I start with the border it leaves more room to trowel the inside where the herringbone pattern goes but then I might have trouble aligning the levtec clips on the right locations to meet up with the herringbone pattern later.
The dry run looked like this [ignore the non symmetry of the border, I didn't want to cut anything yet]:

Edit: I will add that the East, South and West walls are perfectly plumb as measured with a 345 triangle, the north wall is off about 1/2" over 20'. One idea was to get the inner border perfectly square and steal some space from the outer perimeter on the northern wall.
Where would you recommend starting this pattern?
Edit: Final thought: trowel direction. Most literature recommends having the trowel lines running in the same direction but also having the trowel lines be oriented in such a way that the lines run in a direction that the air has a shortest path to escape when collapsing the troughs (ridges). In the case of herringbone would we run the lines in a v direction giving each long tile section a 90 degree orientation with the ridges or do we go from left to right or up and down having to spread a large area of adhesive to work around and hopefully not make a mess, this way the ridges run under the tile at a 45 degree angle?
Thanks!


texts: How can I get the hinge pin out of the refrigerator door?

texts:
I just went to open my fridge and the door just fell off. The reason appears to be that the bottom pin that the door swings on had worked its way loose from the frame it's normally screwed into and is now stuck in the door:

It's totally flush with the surface and I cannot get this thing out. It's a Frigidaire and they're totally unhelpful. There's no tech support on the phone. I can pay $169 for a service call, but I can't see how the tech will get it out either, and I don't want to pay if the answer is a whole new door.
What to do?!


texts: Pros and cons of coupling vs. threaded when transitioning from copper to PVC

texts:
I'm replacing a copper DWV pipe with PVC since it's rotting out. It looks like this:

There's the cast iron on the bottom going into the foundation, followed by a brass cleanout, a brass tee above that, and then finally the copper that I'll be replacing.

Most sites I've been to recommend leaving a bit of copper and using a coupling to make the transition. But a few site recommend using a threaded connection with the understanding that the copper half should be the female half and the PVC should be male.

On this site I found the following with regards to using a coupling:

  Q: Is this any better then soldering a copper female onto DWV and
  using a male PVC/ABS to connect to it?

  A: yes it is better. Torque the
  band down to 60 inch-pounds and you'll not have to worry about it.

Okay... WHY is it better? What are the pros and cons of each method?

Definition: DWV - Thin copper pipe for drain, waste, vent usage.

Edit:

On the page linked above, the one of the posters shows the following two couplings:

No-Hub (corrugated):

Pro-Flex (smooth)

I went and purchased a coupling with a smooth metal band around it that was "for connecting no hub pipes of similar or dissimilar materials." The PVC would barely fit in it and the copper was too thin and I could easily pull it off. Since the sizes were so different the metal band bent badly. I saw in the linked post that the rubber was supposed to be thicker at the copper end. I guess I just didn't understand how much thicker.

Follow-up questions:

What is the use of the corrugated coupling? What other features should I look for in an appropriate coupling?


texts: Why would two circuit breakers be connected inside the service panel?

texts:
I was trying to locate the circuit breaker for an outlet in my garage and found a truly baffling setup. Two breakers control the same outlet (both plugs). After some head scratching, I opened the breaker box and found (see pic) breaker 4 (20 amp) wired to the outlet as expected but breaker 34 (30 amp) wired to breaker 4. Why would this be done? It was obviously intentional and possibly setup for a freezer. Is this safe and in anyway an accepted practice?

Thanks everyone for the help! I know enough to keep from getting electrocuted and this just didn't meet the logic test. I'll be checking the wiring and hopefully this is the only work they attempted.


texts: I have built a horizontal fence on a slope. There is a 6" or so gap between the bottom of the fence and the ground on the downhill side. What easy solutions are there for this problem? I have considered: (1) putting some fence wire along the bottom, (2) trying to put in a angle-cut board, (3) putting up some decorative fixture (e.g., small garden edging fence). I'm looking for the easiest solution given what's already done.


texts: What is this tool set in the red rack used for?


texts: Flickering lights when appliances turn on

texts:
Recently our lights started flickering whenever a major appliance comes on.
Such as the furnace, dryer, fridge, washer...
All of them flicker only once, except for the washer. The lights flicker in tune to the washer agitating. It's really weird. They changed a few power poles on our street 2 years ago if it matters. I checked the 2 main wires coming in at the main breaker and got 121V and 116V. Then after checking every outlet in the house, about 12 of them have an open ground, but they all work. At the washer, the outlet had a reverse nuetral, which I fixed, but that didn't help with the flickering. I'm call the power company on Monday to come and check it out. Any other thoughts?


texts:
Say I have something similar to the image below:

Now, where you see the rocks, I want to put water that goes a little higher than the rocks, and I want the water to move in one direction all around the square. Rather than being made from steel, it will be made out of wood sides and it will be raised off the ground a little. So, how would I make the water move? Some kind of pump? Can I keep each side level or do I have to angle some sides so that water can flow?


texts:
I bought a little mini fridge (ok, it's actually one of those wine cooler thingies) that buzzes loudly.

Took it apart and discovered the source of the problem: a little fan in there, similar to the type you'd find in a desktop computer. Applied some WD-40, bam, problem solved.

However, a few months later and it's buzzing louder than ever. Apparently WD-40 was the wrong oil to use.

  [Never put WD-40 in] any electric motor, even if the rotor is stuck
  from filthy dried-up lubricant!  It not only removes any remaining
  lube, but it can melt coil wires (the lightly-coated copper wires
  twisted up in electric motors) and cause an electrical short. New fan
  motor!

What can I do this time around to keep it lubricated and quiet?


texts: Can I install membrane and new tile over existing tile?

texts:
I removed the tile from the hallway a few years ago and installed hardwood flooring. The tile kept breaking into small pieces and scarred up the walls. I had a heck of a time removing all the thinset in order to get the cement subfloor flat / smooth. I am trying to avoid that in the laundry room. I am laying porcelain tile and prefer not to remove old tile. I have tiled over many other ceramic surfaces without a problem, but there are small cracks here and know that membrane works on concrete, so thought, why not over old tile and then install new tile over that?
Can I install an anti-fracture membrane over old tile that is structurally sound and then install new tile over the membrane? I am trying to not remove the old tile even though it has some minor cracks.


texts: How do I install a water line to my refrigerator?

texts: Recently bought a new refrigerator that has an ice maker and now I want to run a water line to the refrigerator (there is not one there right now).  The cold water line is pretty much right below the refrigerator in the basement so I can easily drill a hole behind the refrigerator to the basement.  Is there a simple way to attach to my currently exisitng cold water line (without requiring a plumber)?


texts: How can I install a light fixture in the ceiling of a finished room?

texts:
In my dining room, I would like to install a ceiling light in the center of the room.  This room is on the ground floor of a colonial two-story, so there is no attic access into the ceiling; my work space is limited to "within the room itself."

I have an existing switch on the wall, which toggles a wall outlet in the corner of the room.  I would like this switch to also control the new ceiling light.

Is it better to branch the electrical wire to the ceiling from the wall outlet, or from the light-switch?  Why is one a better option than the other?
How should I go about running the electrical wire to the center of the ceiling, from the corner of the room, with no attic access?  Should I cut a long thin strip out of the ceiling and cut a notch out of each crossbeam on the way?  Or is there a better strategy?


texts: What type of supports do I need for a 12'x20' deck?

texts:
My deck has 12' joists and is 20' wide. It's attached to the house by ledger board. This is in Connecticut and house was built in 2013 to put into perspective the building code at the time. The builder specified four 4x4 posts to support the deck. The beam underneath the deck comprises four 2x10s sitting on top of 4 6x6 posts. We upgraded the 4x4s to 6x6s for added strength and for the look.
We are now looking to pour a concrete pad underneath and to do this we are going to be temporarily supporting the deck and removing the 6x6s.
I'm hoping you all feel if I remove the two center 6x6s the two outer 6x6s will be enough to handle the load of the deck, a gas grill (maybe 300 pounds) and of course family members.
The two outer most 6x6s that I'm hoping to leave are about 1 foot in from the edges of the quad beam
Is this enough? Can it be supported by those two 6x6s if I say upgrade the quad beam? Can I upgrade the 6x6s to leave the existing quad beam instead?
Thank you!!! Need to do this by Friday so I'm hoping some of you guys can respond today please!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WdHUouE7qCbXhTM8A
Just added photos at the above link they were to large to add directly. The outside posts are only about 10" in.
Thank you!


texts: What height to set baseboards before carpet is installed?

texts: I am wondering how high I should space my baseboard off the floor before carpet.  I know the tack strip will go next to the base and then carpet goes over it and tucks under the base.


texts: Persian blinds: why the headrail is open at the top

texts:
Why is the headrail (A) U-shaped without a top cover?

I would say it will accumulate dirt over time through this open top.

Is it always this way with Persian blinds and if so what is the reason to keep the top of the headrail open?


texts: Tips for building a soundproof room with ventilation

texts:
I'm looking into constructing a 6ft(W) x 6ft(D) x 7ft(H) soundproof room pretty soon. This is to mainly keep noise from going out of the room rather than coming in from the outside (But eliminating noise coming in will be a great benefit).

The noise is really just meant to keep my voice in so people can't hear me unless I am practically screaming (It's a room for recording YouTube videos)

I will also be planning on having a move able wall instead of a door to make things easier on the whole construction process (unless that is a moronic idea?)

As of this moment I have decided to construct it like this:

Drywall (Outer) -> Insulation -> Drywall -> Green Glue -> Drywall -> Mass Loaded Vinyl (Maybe) -> Acoustic Foam (Just for decoration)

This room will be constructed in a garage so there is a possible issue with the concrete so would it be better to add a floor to the room or anchor the sides into the concrete and just have a thick carpet to buffer sound a bit more?

Is there anything else I should put into the construction to make the sound proofing more effective?

And I will also need ventilation so what would be the most effective way to do this? As of this moment I am just considering a soundproof ventilation duct hooked up to a portable air conditioner for air (Yes, this final part is a bit ghetto but I'm working on a budget)

Any help is greatly appreciated

Mike


texts: Multiple breakers controlling the same lights - how can this be?

texts:
We have started having trouble with our outside package unit A/C stopping on its own, before it reaches the correct temp. I can identify 3 issues:

There are multiple lights (bath, just one light over the kitchen sink, and laundry light downstairs) on opposite sides of the house that go off at the same time as the AC. 220 Breaker in position 3-4 is not tripped. I  believe there is a short or loose wire, because after it goes off, it will come back on by itself between 15 minutes to 2 hours hour later. Nothing else is touched, and it comes back on. Even stranger is the same lights will sometimes come on at around 50% full power, but no AC. They will randomly come back to full power on their own. This morning AC was off when we got up, then came on for an hour, then kicked off. Same lights described above were off, then fluctuated between full power, 50% or off. As I checked breakers with a spot light plugged in below the panel, that light will come on and off randomly with nobody touching it.
A separate 15 amp breaker in position 8 also can turn off the laundry room lights described above. This light is on a pull chain and can be turned off from 2 breakers, one being the 220 for the AC.
Last issue. This morning the well pump went off (a home run circuit) and won't come back on.
I have an electrician scheduled to come out this week, but no water or AC is not real good.....Any insight would be appreciated.


texts: Ethernet LAN disconnects after turning off kitchen tubelight or fan

texts:
Whenever my kitchen tube light or fan is turned off or on my Ethernet LAN disconnects. How could they interfere with the the Ethernet? My Laptop is connected only to LAN Ethernet cable

What could cause this to disconnect?


texts: Laying your own telephone cable (from demarcation point)

texts:
So my telephone cable from the demarcation point to my apartment is broken and there's no way to get a proper technician to fix it in the next few weeks. So I tried to do it myself, but the router keeps blinking, indicating that the connection isn't functional.

I made some pics from my phone to illustrate what I did. In this first picture, there is a little Telecom box which the Telecom technician connected. This is right at the demarcation point. Instead of plugging the telephone cable in there, I cut the wires and connected them to a telephone cable. This can be seen in the background. Its a 2x2 telephone cable, but I only connected the white and red cables. The second picture shows what I did at the other end, in my appartment. cable then goes straight into the router, but without any effect. Does anyone have an idea how to proceed? Would it make sense to get a Multimeter to detect it there are some voltages measurable, or is that doubtful even it it works? Any advice is appreciated.


texts: Why is non-metallic cable (NM) cheaper than THHN?

texts:
I'm looking at the cost of wire.  A 500' spool of THHN costs roughly $75.  I will need three of these to run hot/neutral/ground to outlets, etc.  Three spools will cost $225.  On the other hand, I can buy two 250' coils of cable and do the same work, but for only $125.  Isn't cable just THHN wrapped into an outer sheath?
I'd much rather run THHN through my conduit than use cable (I understand cable cannot be used in conduit...well, it's cross-sectional area is too high to make it feasible), but the cost has me stumped.
Is there some technicality or spec that makes THHN superior to what comes in cable?


texts:
I have a single bulb pendant ceiling light in a funky shade and I'd like to run some led strip lights around the shade.

I've seen this: https://www.olenstechnology.com/product/lampchamp/

Which would work in concept but seems to be a bit big and more than really needed.

Is there a way to wire in a USB socket into the lamp power? Could I dismantle a wall socket USB (like this: USB wall socket) and hook it into the ceiling wiring?

Or are there any better / dedicated mains to USB socket devices out there?


texts: Converting LED String Lights from Battery to DC Power Supply

texts:
I've converted a string of micro LED fairy lights powered by 2-CR2032 3V batteries to run off of a 5V 1.0A Switching AC/DC Power Adapter. The lights are "Steady On" when powered by the batteries, but flash off & on at quick, regular intervals when hooked up to the power supply. I want the lights to be "Steady On" when powered by the power adapter. What is causing them to flash off & on? And how can I fix it?

UPDATE:The experienced advice of several people helped me to solve the problem I was having with converting a string of battery-operated LED lights to a plug-in power source.

Here's what I think I learned:

Voltage matters: When I hooked up a 5V power adapter to a string of these LED lights, they either flashed off and on, probably a function of the built-in protection inside the power adapter.....or.....they snapped-crackled-and-popped and I managed to fry most of a string
Even though the voltage across the 2 batteries in series without a load was 5.96, the voltage across the 2 batteries with the LED lights running was only 3.0 to 3.3. The 5V power supply was too large.
When I hooked up a 3V power supply, the LED string functioned properly with the correct amount of light output/brightness.
I realized that I didn't have to worry about the current rating of the power supply, so long as it was enough. The current is pulled as needed by the LED lights up to as much as it needs.

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and helping me out.


texts: How can I fit a face plate to two devices in separate single-gang boxes?

texts:
I ran into an issue when changing an outlet and switch in what I thought was a double gang box.  After opening it up I found it was 2 single gang boxes next to each other.  The previous switch and outlet (non-GFCI) fit in there fine so I thought no big deal and replaced them.

Well after replacing them I found that my wall plate is a ways off from being able to fit.  Has anyone ran into an issue like this before?  Is there a way to make this work?  I would prefer to not have to cut them both out and put in a double gang if at all possible.

Thanks


texts: Why has my water filter made my water less clean?

texts:
A few years ago I installed a Whirlpool under sink water filtration system that I purchased from Lowes, as part of a kitchen renovation.

I've just replaced the carbon filter again (following the manufacturers procedure (filter model# WHKF-GAC), and once again have noticed that the water coming out looks less drinkable than the water coming from any other tap in the house.  The water coming out after not using the faucet for a bit is white (not a bit cloudy, WHITE), and only slightly clears up after running the tap for a minute.
I've followed the manufacturers instructions, and flushed the system for 5 minutes after the filter replacement (what a waste of water).  But the problem persists, and from previous experience will likely persist for the next week or so.  Is there a way to clear up the water sooner, or do I have to continually waste water flushing the system for a minute or so before drinking?
This has been a problem since the first filter was installed, but the water typically clears up after using the filter for a couple weeks.

Filter Cartridge Replacement Instructions:
NOTE: Before changing cartridge, turn off incoming watersupply. Place a bucket under filter to catch the small amountof water that will run out after housing removal.

Shut off water.
Relieve pressure in housing by pushing red vent button.
Unscrew housing and remove old cartridge. Wash housing thoroughly with mild soap and water.
Insert new cartridge and re-install housing. Be sure cartridge isseated in the housing before tightening onto head.
Use filter wrench to fully seat the cartridge. Tighten to make awater tight seal.
Turn on water. If any leaks appear, tighten housing as needed.
Flush system for five (5) minutes


texts: Sanding screen vs Sandpaper for hardwood floor

texts: What are the advantages and disadvantages of using a sanding screen vs sandpaper when refininshing a hardwood floor? When would you choose one over the other?


texts: How to cap this water pipe so it is flushed with the concrete?

texts:
The builder left this water pipe sticking out of the ground.  How to cap it off so it is flush with the concrete?  Otherwise the top off cap will stick out and create a tripping hazard or the plumber will need to break the concrete around the pipe.

Please help with any advice!


texts:
Wiring multiple baseboard heaters each with it own stat with one 10-2wg line and 20amp dbl pole.
I wired these new heater up using double pole stats. the 10-2 runs close to each heater to a junction box.
all like colors junction and one line splits off to feeds w,b,g to heater, other line feeds w,b,g on to next stat and heater and etc to last heater.
Heater #1 works fine heater 2 and 3 have 120 on each white and black  but heater 2 and 3 do not work.
Whats could be the problem?  heaters total up to to less than 3500 watts.
Thanks in advance for help


texts: Water Heater Dripping and Hissing Internally

texts: I came home today and found that the gas water heater (traditional tank style) was not working.  The pilot light was out so I relit it and the heater came on.  After about 10 minutes I noticed that it had shut off.  There was a sound like water dripping on a hot surface coming from inside the tank, maybe a drop every few seconds.  The pilot light was once again out.  There is no sign of water on the floor.  Time to replace it?  The unit is a Whirlpool, about 10 years old.


texts:
My house is double drywalled. The master bedroom is situated beside my son's bedroom (which is sandwiched between the guest bedroom and the master). We find that when he hits the wall (while sleeping) it is very hollow sounding. I should also add, that I currently have no baseboards (recently got new floors); just not sure if this has anything to do with the noise transmission.
What are some ways to mitigate this (ideally without ripping out any drywall)? I have read about:

Noise-cancelling drywall adhered with green glue (resulting in a triple drywall)
Injecting foam insulation into the stud spacings
Putting up some EPS foam board and drywalling over that

Does anyone have any advice? Maybe there is a simple way to help?


texts:
Current situation

On my garage ceiling there is a light fixture which has been converted via the adapters pictured. It is controlled by a switch which I don't like because I never want to turn off the garage door opener. A voltage tester shows the screws are hot when the switch is on. It was like this when I moved in. So my first question is -- is this safe/proper?

Desired situation

I'd like to convert this fixture to a real receptacle using the cover plate pictured. I'd like the top receptacle to be 'always on' for the garage door opener. I'd still like the bottom receptacle to be controlled by the switch so I can plug in a nearby hanging light.

Here is the wiring situation:

I just wanted to get an idea of how complicated this will be and whether it's a smart and safe upgrade to make. Any feedback would be appreciated!


texts: Why won't GFCIs indicator light show on plug?

texts: My handyman installed 10 new Gfci's in a 1987 home.  There has never been any in the home.  They all work when you plug something in and do not trip- but the the indicator lights will not come on any of the plugs.  What is wrong?


texts: Can you actually turn off a saddle valve to replace a refrigerator and then turn it back on?


texts: i have a pool heater to install the elect lists 208/240-575 vac 60hz 3 phase i have 175 ft from main panel what size sub panel and size wire to feed?

texts: I am going to install a separate sub panel for my pool. currently have a double 60 breaker supplying power to the pool pumps and am not sure if i can upgrade the current feed to accommodate the heater also, so probable just run it separately but not sure the feed size and main breaker size?


texts: I'm using pretty expensive tile for my kitchen but feel stupid to cover invisible parts of the floor with it, such as under the cabinet footprint. Is it common to use cheaper but equally thick tile under cabinets, to save expensive tiles?


texts: Ceiling fan with remote control and 2 wall switches

texts:
I have a ceiling fan remote control module with 2 outputs, one for the light and one for the motor.

Also, I have two wall switches.

I want one switch to give power to the remote module and the other to give power to fan light

But I want to operate the light with remote control too and if possible work like ale retour.

So I can turn on the light from wall and turn it off from remote control and vice versa.


texts: Finding ceiling joists in an old apartment

texts:
I'm struggling to find the ceiling joists from which to hang lights in an old apartment.

The building is in central Copenhagen and was built in the 1850s, so I can't assume that the joists are spaced 16" or 24" apart. Furthermore, there's quite a large, decorative cornice so nor can I simply measure out from where the wall meets the ceiling.

And to exacerbate the situation, I don't even know which way the joists run. I would expect them to span the shortest distance but I have a suspicion that my apartment and the apartment through the wall were originally a single dwelling which would make the shortest span originally the longest span. I could compare with the wooden floorboards but these are brand new and I'm not convinced that they've been laid directly on the joists instead of underlying, older floorboards (different floors are at slightly different heights but all the floorboards run in the same direction).

I tried to use magnets to locate nails or screws which would fasten the ceiling plaster/gypsum to the joists. But what I found was puzzling: the magnets stick to the ceiling in a continuous line across the short span, from wall to wall. And this repeats 3 times 6-8" out from the front wall, then 24.5" inches across the rest of the ceiling.

So I assumed that this was a form of fastening to a joist and drilled a small hole immediately to the side of the very narrow magnetic line. The drill went right through without finding wood.

I put a U-shaped piece of wire into the hole, intending to turn it until it hit a joist (and the side of the 'U' below the ceiling would point to the joist) and a lot of grainy, grey dust poured out of the hole. I tried it again and more dust poured out. In fact, each time I try to insert the wire, a continuous stream of the grey dust pours out.

Also, the building was renovated immediately before we moved in so there's only one indication of where a light was previously hung, and it's in an odd location where we don't want a light.

We've asked a couple of neighbours and both are using only floor-standing lamps because of the lack of clues on the ceiling.

Does anyone have any recommendations? All I can think of doing now is drilling more holes until I hit wood, but without knowing how far apart or how wide are the joists, or even which way they run, I could end up with more holes than plaster/gypsum on the ceiling.


texts: Can I use the area above my garage for storage?

texts:
The ceiling joists in my garage are 2x8 spaced 24" o.c., and span 21'.  The roof load appears to be carried by the walls, so the joists seem to only be in place to hold the drywall.

I'd like to use the space for light storage (holiday decorations, etc), but I'm not sure if the joists are up for the task. Obviously I'd want to add some decking; so items don't fall through the drywall, but that also adds to the weight the joists will have to carry.

Will I be able to do what I want, or will I have to upgrade the joists?

Since it's a garage (where cars have to park), I can't add mid span support without a huge undertaking.