texts:
My house and my neighbors' houses are going to have our water shut off from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm this week by our Water and Wastewater District.

I called the manufacturer of the water heater and also the gas provider.  They recommended changing the gas knob to either "OFF" or "PILOT".  They advised that "PILOT" would be better as I wouldn't need to go through the trouble of re-lighting the pilot light.

My question is if I switch the gas knob to "PILOT" do I have to change the water heater thermostat to "PILOT LIGHTING" or can I leave it to its current setting?  I have been reading through the manual and am not sure.

I have a gas water heater from 2006 so the thermostat does not have a vacation setting.

Thanks.


texts: Will I notice a pressure drop going from 1/2" pex to 3/4" CPVC then to 1/2" CPVC?

texts:
I'm replacing my older CPVC piping in my house and I have access to almost the entire house except the master bath area. At first, I thought it was being fed by a 1/2 inch line that I could just connect into off a Pex manabloc system but it is not.  It is a 3/4 inch line that branches out to 1/2 connections to the shower, sink, and tub except the tub faucet is 3/4.

My question is, if I connect a 1/2 pex to 3/4 CPVC that branches back into 1/2 CPVC about 6 feet later, will I notice a pressure drop or anything?


texts:
I'm living with the peal and stick home depot tile that could be installed either grouted or groutless.

I chose the latter.

I have lots of dirt catchers now.

Yesterday I was patching the walls prepatory to painting.  I dropped a big glob of joint compound on the floor.  On cleaning it up, I notice that if filled the cracks nicely.

"Hmm" thought I.  "It's below the surface so it doesn't actually get stepped on.  Everytime I wash the floor, I'll lose a film of it.  I may end up having to touch it up every so often."

Now the instructions with the tile said "Only use our magic vinyl grout.  do not use regular grout."  And I can see that.  Regular grout is meant to be used with ceramic which is much more brittle.

Now I'm pretty sure that joint compound is not the best material for this.  And the reviews say that the original acrylic ground is a PITA to work with.

What would make a good temporary joint filler between vinyl tile?  This floor is on my 'replace the floor' list, but it will likely be 2-3 years.  Meanwhile I'm tired of cleaning dirt out of cracks.

Thoughts:  Vinyl is a pretty non-stick surface.  I've had little problem getting paint drips off it even a day later.  So a candidate needs to be able to make a mechanical bond with the surface.

It doesn't need to be very strong.  It's not the wear surface.

Ideally it washes well, even if it erodes slightly.

It shouldn't be too brittle.  Vinyl flexes some.

Lime based plaster?  Straight lime putty?

Add some fiberglass strand re-enforcement?  Cabosil?


texts: Can I move my bathroom sink's drain pipe about 6 inches to the right?

texts: I found the vanity I wanted for my bathroom, but it doesn't fit due to the position of the drain pipe.  It needs to move about 6 inces to the right.  I assume there is some sort of adapter or something that can be used for this, but I know approximately nothing at all about plumbing.  Can this easily be done by the naive DIY'er?  How would I go about determining what size PVC pipe I will need, etc?


texts: How to weigh down a plastic shower base while recaulking?

texts:
I'm recaulking a shower which has a plastic base that flexes a bit when stepped on in certain spots. This caused the caulking to pull away the last time I recaulked.

If this was a tub, I'd fill it with water to weigh it down while caulking/curing. But it's a shower. Any ideas on items to use to achieve the same effect? The best I've come up with so far is bags of water softener salt. I don't have a set of weight plates or anything like that.

What could I use to weigh down the shower?


texts:
I am looking a two-storey house in which the current owners have smoked hookah for a number of years, and the interior has a strong smell.

What kind of repairs would need to be done to restore the house into a normal condition? I've read that cigarette smoke can require replacing walls, ceilings and to remove the lingering smoke particles and tar. I know that hookah uses water for filtering, and the result is more of a vapor. Would it do the same type of damage as smoke?

I've only found sources discussing cigarette smoke and its effect on property value, but nothing about smoke. Does anyone have first-hand experience in dealing with this, or know of any resources?


texts: Do nice water pump pressure switches exist?

texts:
If you have a water pump / well pump in the United States, you have a Square D pumptrol switch that looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Square-9013-FSG2-30-50/dp/B00CONESDG/

I own several of these and I understand very well how to set and operate them.

However, they are almost comically primitive and there are times when a normal person (like my in-laws, or my wife) need to restart a water pump and it's very frustrating to have this weirdo finger-bar mechanism that you can't describe in one sentence or less ...

Can I just start and stop my pump with buttons ?

I have searched all evening and I don't see any alternatives to the sad, lame old pumptrol - unless I want to buy oddball units off of alibaba that have metric threads, or other weirdness.

Seriously - if I work in a water treatment plant am I really restarting my pumps by "pulling the little lever just a little bit but not too much oops you pushed it too far ..." ?  This is how pumps are controlled in industry ?  Little finger bars ?

My wife needed to restart our pump for the water in our home once while I was away on a trip and it was very frustrating to try to talk her through this ridiculous little device on the phone.

What are my alternatives ?  I need something UL Listed, standard inch threads, made for the United States and ... has actual buttons that you press.

Does this exist ?


texts: Are suspended ceilings common in residential buildings?

texts:
Are suspended ceiling common in houses, rather then offices? If we to comparing with drywall ceiling:

Are there more strict requirements for suspended ceiling?
Are there more possible safety issues with suspended ceilings? (E.g. electrical wiring, vent grids, vents)
Installation -- it looks to me that it is much easier to install suspended ceiling tiles by a single person, than installing/coating/taping heavy drywall sheets. But there might be some catches as well?


texts: Is there a way to fix a leak in the pressurized side of a pool system without digging it up?

texts:
I have a pool that has a pretty bad leak on the pressurized side, and it's not in the backwash line nor in any line that is above ground. Right now I don't know which pipe has the leak in it, but I just had a new patio poured. This most likely caused the issue, although the concrete guy claimed he did a pressure check. In any case I really don't want to have to dig it up to have get to the leak. So I have 2 questions.

Is there any way that doesn't involved a lucky educated guess to find the leak without digging up and hoping you were right.
Assuming you can find the leak with answer #1, is there a way to fix it that doesn't involve digging up the patio?


texts: Why isn't there hot water coming from my faucet after stem replacement?

texts: I just completed the replacement of the hot and cold water stems form my bathtub faucets. The hot water was leaking so I went ahead and replaced both. They were probably original to the house circa late 50's. After finally getting them loose I inserted new correct replacements. The problem now is that when I run the hot water I only get cold water. I let it run for several minutes but still had no hot water coming out. There is hot water everywhere else in the house, even the sink near the tub. Has any else ever heard of this or encountered this problem.


texts: Building a small garden wall and unsure which technique to use

texts:
I'm planning to build a small garden wall to replace my current solution for terracing

The wall will be 6m x 0.60m.
I am unsure which way to go:

brick and mortar solution, which requires a concrete foundation
dry stone wall, with basic gravel & sand foundation

I prefer the first for the aesthetics but I don't want to pour concrete.
The second is also fine, but I am not sure if I should go for a solution with two lines of bricks like in this image

I prefer having one line of bricks only given the low height of the wall, but it might not retain enough.


texts: I have a gas water heater. Put in in 09. Low after pressure in all faucets. Have drained water heater, changed piping to pex and new pressure valve. Still same low pressure. Could it be heater itself?


texts: Why do adjacent kitchen outlets need to be on separate circuits?

texts:
I believe that's what the code calls for (I'm in Alberta, Canada) but maybe I'm making it up. I'm just wondering what the reason behind that is. Is it to spread the load out more in the event that you're using several appliances right next to each other?

I ask because I wired an island that has three outlets on it but I only ran one 14/3 wire to all of them. So there is two circuits and each half of each duplex receptacle will be on a separate circuit, but the adjacent outlets are on the same two circuits (if that makes sense). Is there something I'm missing that could cause a catastrophic failure?

Thanks!


texts: 240 volt biphasic to 240 volt monophasic

texts:
I want to use a monophasic 230/240 volts chainsaw coming from Europ in USA. I have biphasic 240 Volt outlet in my new US house. Can I just connect the two 125 volts phases to get a 240 volts monophasic?
On the chainsaw there are two wires: one is phase and the other is neutral.
Thank you for your help.

Thank you for your answers. I have been using electric chain saws for more than 20 years as a non professionnel. Less maintenance and less noise.

Of course I would use proper outlets for the connections.
My questions are:
1- Is there a risk that I damage any part of the installation or switches panel if I connect the two phases together in a European female plug  in order to plug in my chainsaw?
2- Do I risk to damage the chainsaw if I plug it in that female plug and start it?
Thank you again for your help.


texts:
I'm building a small detached office and have a few questions. More Details:

The office is about 100 ft from my main dwelling.
Plan is to share the current service from my main dwelling.
Only 120V is required, and 60A will be more than enough for my needs. (I can detail more if necessary, but this is already overkill).
I'd like to have a subpanel with 4-15A (120V) breakers in it. I'd also like to have either a main breaker or cutoff.
I plan to add a breaker to the main panel in my house to supply the office.
I really want to run conduit to the office in case I need to pull something in the future.
The office has a bond wire connected directly to the rebar in the concrete.

Ok, now for the questions:

Can I run 240V (2-hot, 1 ground, 1 neutral) and only size it for 30A? Then half of the circuits (2-15A) will run off of 1 hot and the other half off the other hot? Or am I missing something?
What kind of wire do I need to use in the conduit? Currently I'm thinking individual copper wire, 8-gauge in size.
Do I need to bring a ground wire to the office even though it will have its own ground?
For inspection, do they need to see the unburied cable? Where can I find local details (ex: backfilled with sand, 24" deep, warning tape, etc). I'm in FL.

Thanks!


texts:
I have a bamboo floor that's been work throughout the years in a few isolated spots. Because the majority of the floor looks fine, I'm hoping I can patch up the spots that have issues. I attempted one section by sanding and then coating with wipe on poly. It looks decent, but the finish is not glossy enough and the color is too light. I'm thinking that I may need to try the normal poly finish, but I worry that trying to blend this with the edges of the patch will be difficult. Any advice on the best way to proceed? Many thanks in advance!

Photos:

Untouched spot:

Attempted fix (fixed part on the right):


texts: When does a sleeve become a conduit, and how much can I fit in a sleeve?

texts:
According to National Electrical Code, the conduit percentage fill table does not apply to sections of conduit used to provide protection from physical damage (sleeve).

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 9 Tables
Notes to Tables
(2) Table 1 applies only to complete conduit or tubing systems
and is not intended to apply to sections of conduit
or tubing used to protect exposed wiring from physical
damage.

However, I wasn't able to find anywhere that defines when sections of conduit become a complete conduit system.  When the code says "sections" does it actually mean a section of conduit, so it would be a 10' length for example? Is it a "section" until it's attached to fittings or boxes?
Once I determine if it's a section or not, how do I determine how many conductors can fit?  Since the code says Table 1 does not apply, does that mean I should use the 100% fill values to determine fill?


texts: What's the best way to cut through this wall?

texts:
I am adding insulation+drywall between open rafters. What's the best way (tool, blade/bit, technique, other advice) to get through these wall layers for ventilation? (I'll put mesh and grilles over the stucco holes.)

There's a 2x4, a 2x6, builder's paper, and stucco over lathe. I'm not sure if the 2x4 (front) is structural or was just a surface for mounting the appearance board that was nailed to it.

I could easily just tear into it, but I'm sure there's a "right" way that I don't know about. I have the basic power tools (e.g., recip saw).


texts: Hot to Neutral at the outlet only reading 112V

texts: I am trying to troubleshoot an issue.  All outlets downstream from my GFCI will not work when I plug anything in.  with my DMM I pulled the GFCI from the wall and measured voltage into the GFCI from Hot to Ground = 120 Neutral to ground = .5 Neutral to hot 120.  Out from the GFCI Hot to Ground = 120 Neutral to ground = .5 Neutral to hot 120.  I go to the next outlet and I get Hot to ground 120. Neutral to ground 1.5 Hot to Neutral 112v.  any ideas on how to resolve?  When I trip the GFCI all reading on the outlet goes to almost 0 as would be expected.  It is important to note I have replace the outlet not working to no avail. I get the same readings without an outlet attached


texts: Wiring a light switch that only has one cable when the new switch (with neon indicator) has live and neutral both in and out

texts: I am replacing a light switch with one including a neon indicator. There is only one cable to the switch but the new switch has live and neutral terminals for both 'in' and 'out'. Which terminals do I use?


texts: What is the best way to split a series of recessed ceiling lights to two switches?

texts:
I have a large basement with 10 can lights in the ceiling controlled by a single pull switch at the bottom of the stairs. I have framed in a bedroom that essentially cuts the area in half with 6 of the 10 lights being inside the new room. I wish to keep 4 on the original switch while bypassing the series with a switch inside the bedroom to control the 6 bedroom cans.

Is there a way to do so using the existing wiring? Or am I stuck running all new wire to some or all of the lights?


texts: What should I expect when using electrical equipment rated for 100V/120V at 110V

texts:
I have a number of electrical home appliances that are designed for

100V, 50Hz
120V, 60Hz
230V, 50Hz

I have a converter 100V <=> 220V-240V (according to the description). My power outlet has (supposedly)

110V-115V, 60Hz

and in other places

220V, 60Hz.

What effects do I have to expect when I use my appliances (with or without converter, as appropriate), where the appliances are

(120V/60Hz) stand mixer (simple motor)
(100V/50Hz) rice polisher (turns for a pre-programmed number of times)
(100V/50Hz) rice cooker (with complex functions such as indicating time, calculating time remaining for a particular rice cooking program)
(120V/60Hz) mixer (variable speed)
(100V/50Hz) CD player
(230V/50Hz) printer

at the slightly different voltage?

Is it sensible to measure the voltage and frequency before using the appliances and, if so, what equipment do I need?


texts: Is gravel necessary for post hole drainage in sandy Florida soil?

texts:
I am installing 6’ vinyl privacy fence in FLORIDA.
I would like to think the sandy soil would drain well enough. The labor and cost of digging deeper holes and buying and delivering gravel doesn’t seem worth it.
Do I really need to add 6” of gravel to the bottom of the post holes for drainage?


texts: MY band recently played a gig at a friend's farm. We set up on a concrete pad behind his barn. I received my first shock when I set my arm on the top of my guitar amplifier. It was a hot sunny day and my arm was a little sweaty. Shock was minor. I then touched one of my effects pedals with my hand to adjust settings while holding my guitar with my other hand and received a very severe shock that literally knocked me off my feet. Our bass player's amplifier (next to me) completely fried as did a replacement amp. Our other guitar player who set up on other side of stage had no issues even though he was using same cord/circuit. We changed power cords, used different circuits, etc. The only thing that finally solved the problem was by plugging our gear into the extension chords on the other side of the pad. In other words, the issue was somehow related to the place on the pad where we were setup. Have you ever heard of such a thing? In 30 years playing, none of us had ever come across anything like this. We are all pretty good at tracking down electrical issues. Thanks for your reply.


texts: 6 white, 6 black, 6 ground wires coming out of ceiling

texts: I'm replacing the fan/light in my sons room with 4 flush mount lights and a fan with no light on it. I removed the old fan and it had 6 2 wire cables with ground so all together there are 6 white wires, 6 black and 6 ground wires. All were bundled with the same color. the room has two light switches. I've hooked up the lights to what I thought was the light switch but it did not work. so I tried all the wires hooked up to the lights and still nothing. does anyone have an idea on what I'm not seeing?


texts: I am doing preventive maintenance on my bathroom sinks with this: Vastar drain snake and I thought it would be a good idea to do this in my shower stall. I took off the two screws but the top piece of the drain would not budge. Any ideas on how to get it off?


texts:
I have an old house with a new(er) installed roof shingle that's about 5 years old. In removing leaves from the gutter today, I noticed green moss? mold? around some of the areas close to the house. A couple of questions:

Should I worry about this? (does it reduce the effectiveness of the shingle). If yes, then question 2 come into play.
Can it be corrected in the area that are truly unsightly with a chemical or something? I have kids so it would need to be safe. If yes, question 3 comes into play.
If some cleaning can be done to fix, is this a DIY or does a service have to be contacted?

Once corrected, is there any preventative measures that can be done to avoid this?

Appreciate time in advance for your thoughts.


texts: What is a good technique to remove a glued-in mirror without access to its edges?

texts:
http://imgur.com/MKkZfSZ

I'm trying to get this mirror out without making a total mess of the surrounding drywall. Any best practices?


texts: How do I dismantle a Saniflo Compact to clean it?

texts: I have a Saniflo Compact that has stopped flushing. The motor runs but no flush. I used Zep descaling solution first, and a whole bunch a junk came loose. Took the back of the inflow and outtake hoses off and cleaned out as much as I could. But I can't see or get to the macerator section? Do I have to take the whole toilet apart? and how do I do that? I am not a plumber, but a good handygirl, don't wanna break anything. Thanks for any help. And I did go buy the expensive Saniflo descaler,, let it sit all night,, and nothing, Motor still running, no flush. I believe it needs a good cleaning, since it's over 5 years now, and i've just discovered this issue!


texts: How can I get a bolt with no head out of my wall?

texts:
I tried to screw this bolt into a stud to secure a 2x4. The hex head snapped off, and now the bolt is stuck. I managed to slide off the 2x4, but I have no idea how to extract the bolt. IIRC it's a 6" long, 1/4" wide bolt with about 5 inches in the wall.
Looking around on the internet, it seems like I can't get it out without arc welding a new nut onto the bolt. I don't have the equipment or experience to pull that off. Are there any alternative methods that would be more within reach for a novice like myself?


texts: How can I frame a wall in a confined space?

texts:
I have to frame a wall inside my cold storage so that I can insulate it. The cold storage is 5 ft wide and 30 feet long. I cannot frame the wall on the ground and raise it up like I would with plenty of space. In this situation would I just bolt the base plate and the top plate since the entire room is made of concrete and than just screw in the studs 16 in on centre? I also like this method because I can place the sill gasket on both the top and bottom plate. Where if I was raising the wall up it would be hard to place a sill gasket above the top plate.

I would appreciate any advice you may have.


texts: How should I protect the metal of a power rack that's kept outdoors?

texts:
I plan on building a power rack for my home gym and was wondering what kind of metal/coating I should use when building it since it will be stored outdoors. Most commercial power racks are built using mild steel and are coated with paint to protect it from rust. These racks should last when used indoors but I'm not so sure if it will when it is kept outdoors.

If I were to build my power rack from mild steel, how should I go about protecting it from rusting? While the rack will stay outdoors, it will be situated under some kind of shade/tent similar to this:

The power rack will stand over concrete or plywood (over concrete), not grass/soil.

With these details in mind, can anyone suggest how I should treat/coat the mild steel? I've taught of powder coating it but again, I'm not sure how that would hold up. How about chroming? Is it too expensive/overkill?

How about using something similar to the following:

These are pictures of my old bench. Since the bench is still standing strong after so many years, I take something like its material would be appropriate for my use case. What do you call this kind of metal/coating, anyway? What properties does it have and is it difficult or expensive to produce/replicate?

Please provide details as to why I should prefer each method over the other. If you would prefer to use some other kind of metal(stainless steel, galvanized steel, aluminum etc), please state why. I tried Google-ing the pros and cons of each method of coating I stated above but I'm still unable to reason out to myself which one to use. If all of them would equally serve the purpose, I guess it will all boil down to which one is the most cost-effective to produce.


texts: Spa pump motor won't run when its in the spa. I removed the pump and ran power to it and it runs fine. Also, with the pump removed, turned on spa jets and no problems. So, re-installed the pump and when turned on, I hear a buzzing sound for say 30 seconds and it trips the breaker. Any ideas please help, and thank you!


texts: Second 100 amp breaker inside existing 200 amp residential panel for new detached garage

texts:
I'm planning to build a new detached garage. My question is can I add a second 100 amp breaker to my existing 200 amp Square D residential panel box? The existing 100 amp breaker goes to my quest house and the new 100 amp breaker would go to my new garage. Wire for garage would be ran in 1-1/2" sch 80 with a total run of 100 feet (panel to panel).

The 200 amp panel is feeding a single family home 3/2 about 2300 sf and the existing guest house of 800 sf.


texts: Lifting 200-300 LBS with 2x8 wood - design question

texts:
I want to lift the body off my 66 VW (not the whole car). Since I already have a 450 lb rated hoist, I decided to take an advantage of it and use it for lifting. This comes handy specially when try to put the body back on the frame.
Question I have if my design can handle the weight? I am only planning to suspend the body for a few mins, until I move the frame out and place the dolly under it to lower it down.
With that said, I have
I have two  2”x6”- 5 feet long going across the front and rear windows opening. (inside I have some extra woods / padding so it not resting on the doors).
On top I have a 5 feet long 2”x8” with a 1/2" eye in the center of it.
The bottom woods are fastened to the top wood with 3/8” threaded rods and also all the bolts are 3/8” head.

The weight of the body is 200 LB, but for safety, let’s assume is 300 LB. can the woods handle the lift? My main concern is the top wood which is lifting 300 LB (~ 150 on each side). can 150 LB on each side bend the 2”x8” enough to break it?
All these woods were purchased from Home Depots. Not sure what kind of woods they are but used for constructions.


texts: Realised that door started to squeaking and the sound is coming from the hinge. The pin cap is slightly bigger than the hinge. Found a video on YouTube that suggested to try with a vice wrench and tap it with hammer but no result. I started to wonder if the pin is removable or not. Any suggestions?


texts: Four transfer switches do not seem sufficient to control numerous appliances through 120v panel breakers

texts:
I am trying to hook up Honda 7000 to a Reliance transfer switch (just using their manual at the moment). The setup requires balancing the 120 volt loads among 3 transfer switches for each side of the generator. Two switches are ganged together to get 240v for my water pump leaving only four 120v. transfer switches. It appears that 2 switches on each side can be used to balance the left and right sides of the generator (22.9 amps, 5,5K watts @ 240v is maximum total output). So there are 4 switches left to handle all the 120v appliances, receptacles etc. Each switch seems to be wired to one 120v breaker in the house panel. Unfortunately, there are NOT four 120v breakers in the house load panel that are house-wired up to all the things I would like to run.
****Additional Info:
Wow. Did not expect answers so quickly. Great answers. I have not actually purchased a transfer switch yet. I downloaded a Reliance 31406CRK manual and was tracing out how it might work. I got more and more concerned that it would not work very well for me. Then i found this website. Glad I did, although it will take a while to become familiar with it.
For over 25 years I have ignored the admonition to not back feed the generator through the panel. I have clearly marked the panel to "switch the power company switch off before doing anything." Then, hook up the generator and flip the breaker for the generator. The power company has done work up here and they have seen the generator (even changed their meter) and never said anything about it.  It has worked perfectly many times until last month I had to have the 3 hp water pump replaced. They put a pump saver device on it and the next time I used the generator the pump would not run. My Devilbiss 7000 generator was putting out 268v. for some reason (another problem to solve) and the pump saver said NO.. I had to turn on several "burners" on the electric range to get the generator's rpm down to lower the voltage and the water pump took off. In the mean time I bought a Honda EU7000is.
I thought, maybe with the new generator, it would be safer to have a transfer switch interlock in case someone else has to engage the system. In my internet search I did not see the interlock device of which someone sent a picture (I can't see who at the moment, but much thanks). That device would provide considerable protection against any confusion. I will have to rearrange my breakers a little, but fantastic solution.
It seems as though two people responded to my question if I am reading this right. I thank you very much for your time and thoughtful responses.
It is still not clear to me how the two 120v phases from the two halves of the generator (to make 240v) end up balancing the full power of the generator by distributing what is left from the 220v water pump to the other 120v breakers, which may be on or off depending. I am hooking a watt meter up to each leg. Maybe that will show what is going on.


texts: What's the best way to measure for crown moulding and trim

texts:
I've been putting up a lot of trim lately (baseboards, quarter-round, chair rail, crown moulding, etc). The problem I'm having is getting precise measurements that each piece should be cut to.

I'm using a 25' tape measure to determine the length of trim, but going from an inside corner to inside corner requires a "bunching" of the tape measure at one end...and that last quarter of an inch or so is just guesswork.

This has been leading to a lot of trips back and forth to the miter saw as I cut a piece long and then consecutively shave off fractions of an inch to get it right. This is compounded by the fact that I have to do the same thing with the mitered mates at either end.

So, my question is about the best method to measure between two inside corners for the purpose of cutting mitered trim.

Note that I'm not having a problem actually cutting the length accurately. I've gotten pretty good at using the miter saw to make a cut where I want. It's just that the lengths that I think I want aren't always turning out so correct.


texts: I have an outlet where both plugs are on a switch. Is there any way I can make it so only one is on the switch? (It's a dual switch, one upstairs and one downstairs) I just want to be able to plug a lamp and a laptop in without the lamp being on.


texts: 3 way switch conversion to single pole to separately control an additional light fixture

texts:
i currently have a 3 way switch with power coming in from a 14/2. there is a 14/3 going to a second 3 way switch with a 14/2 then going to a light fixture. there are white neutrals connected to each other in both switch boxes.
i would like to add a second light fixture that is controlled only by the second switch and then have the first light switch only control the existing light fixture.
can i remove one of the traveler wires (black) from the first 3 way light switch where the power is coming in and connect the end of the black traveler wire to the incoming power wire (black), then connect the other end of the traveler wire (black) to the second switch to bring constant power to that switch. then remove the 14/2 black wire from the second switch which was going to the light fixture and connect it to the other traveler wire (red) that is still connected to the first switch. then connect a new 14/2 black wire to the second switch that goes to the new light fixture?


texts: Window latch? What are these called and where can I buy them?

texts:
My windows has 3 of these per window, positioned top middle and bottom on the inside of the window frame. These catch the lock on the window to secure the closed position.

However on some windows, I've noticed I'm missing some of these as seems like the screws have broken in the hole it once held these in.

I'm planning to replace them by carefully drilling a new holes to secure these things in, slightly above/below the old holes.

I'm in the UK and looking to find where I can get replacements? Can you advise what my best approach is?


texts: Why isn't my telephone socket working fully after installation?

texts:
The main telephone socket is giving me less internet speeds than the extension outlets. 30% less. Upload speed not affected.

This is after replacing with new socket/new outlet, I never used the old one at this location.

The difference in wiring between extension and main, is main has more wires crammed into one telephone socket. All I did when installing socket is join up similar colored wires into one hole. There were 4 cables, each had 2 wires in them, blue and white. The new socket design has 4 pairs of holes, designated as 1, 2,3,4. Pic of design:

Each designated pair of holes, I put two wires of similar color from two cables coming from different directions.

The extensions have only one cable with 2 wires, blue and white.

What did I do wrong?


texts:
I have a double sliding door with a lock, that only works if I lift one side by about 1-2mm. This requieres a lot of force, since this is a solid wood door. The doors do not seem to be parallel to each other. Illustration:

The doors appears to be mounted in a way that makes adjustments rather hard. Do I have to unscrew the castors from the door and then remove them to try to adjust the distance? The doors are completely inside the door frame.

Edit: After the suggestion I tried to move/remove the stop element. It is loose after unscrewing it, but can't be moved or removed.


texts: How harmful are trace amounts of the product inside large-ant capsules for miniature humans?

texts:
I guess with the gardening season in full bloom, and during the little time we keep windows and doors open to get a bit of natural air inside, it's also ant season.

These come in two varieties, small and large. For the small ones, I read on one of the tougher laundry powders that it contains borax, and so I mixed a bit of that powder with an equal volume of powdered sugar. It seems to have worked. The good news is that apparently the sugar lures them, and the borax kills them slowly, out of sight. The very good news is that they have time to carry the mixture back to their colony.

The best part is that this mixture is safe. If a child accidentally touches it, it's not too harmful for humans (a stomach ache, perhaps? Luckily I have no empirical results).

There doesn't seem to be a home recipe for the larger ants, and so I'm heading out to buy the brand ("a" "b" "g") that's advertising these days. No opinion whatsoever about it. Just that they seem to have a reputation to be concerned about.

My question is this: Suppose, just suppose, an ant enters these capsules and subsequently wanders walking onto an apple in the kitchen. And suppose, just suppose, that a child nonchalantly grabs this apple without the adults around getting alarmed. Now suppose that trace amounts of the product inside these capsules makes it through the skin of the apple into the digestive system of a child. Is the product they use in these capsules harmful in trace amounts to miniature homo-sapiens?


texts: Is there any material capable of cancelling low frequencies sounds like a thunder (60Hz)?

texts:
I was thinking in materials for a Dog Kennel, to prect it during storms and also fireworks.
I know there are a lot of materials to reduce noise, but I've also read is very difficult to reduce low frequencies, so I'm not sure if this is even possible.


texts: Do I need to add roof vents if I close off a small attic space in the garage?

texts:
I have a small section of roof over the front of my garage, which I would like to insulate and drywall (making my garage fully insulated).

It is 39" high, and 54" by 17', framed with 2x4 trusses, and facing almost directly north (I don't think it ever gets direct sun). I'm located in south eastern Ontario (near Toronto), and the temperature typically ranges from about -30 to +30C. The garage is not directly heated, though is attached to the house by two walls and so some heat loss from the house is going to heat it (even without being 100% insulated, today when it's 13C outside, it's noticeably warmer in the garage).

Click for full size image

There are soffit vents in this section, and since it is open to the garage below it currently gets some amount of air circulation. I was planning on insulating with R14 fiberglass batts.

Can I close it up without issue, or do I need to add vents of some sort? Presumably I need to make sure there is airflow from the soffit vents at least. Since this is the front of the house, if I do need vents, are there any options for discrete vents?

UPDATE: Spray foam installed

I decided to go with the 'hot roof' method, spraying the underside of the roof decking.

At the advice of the spray foam installer, I put some rigid foam boards blocking the soffit space. There is a continuous thermal break from the walls (batt insulation) to the ceiling (spray insulation).

After the spray foam was installed, I immediately noticed how nearly air-tight it feels, which made me a bit concerned about moisture. Since it's easy to do now (prior to drywall) I'm in the process of adding an exhaust vent that vents outside.

It has gotten as low as 0C out, and the garage was still at a comfortable 14C.


texts:
I have a switch box with 3 switches in it, each powering a different light.  All three switches are supplied by pigtails from one incoming cable.

Two switches are simple single pole switches and when the breaker is turned off those lights stop working.

The third is a 3-way switch and when the breaker is turned off, the light continues to work.

All four combinations of both 3-way switches work as expected, with the breaker off.

When the 3-way switched light is lit, it does NOT back-feed the other two lights.

I read online that there used to be a technique used where two breakers/fuses on the same phase were connected through some black magic to power a light, but I can't envision how it works.

Sadly half of the wires are knob and tube so I can't see any neutrals.


texts:
I'm running a cable from my house to a site in my back garden where I am building a shed. The length of the cable run is about 7-8 metres. I have steel armoured cable which is OK for direct burial.

Is there any regulation for the UK about what depth the cable needs to be buried to? I've started digging a 'slot' but it is really hard going due to the number of stones under the turf.

This is the cable I am using:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B7DJZL8


texts: Warehouse Lighting Wire Size Calculation

texts:
Warehouse Lighting Wiring Size Question

Total distance from panel to end of the longest line is 310 feet.  Each fixture is 42 watts, and there will be up to 30 fixtures on each circuit.  The first fixture on the longest line will be at the 150 foot from panel point.  All lighting fixtures will be run in parallel (pigtailed at each fixture, a.k.a., plug-in fixtures).

Each circuit is 20 AMP, 120V, single phase AC

What size wiring is needed for these longest runs?


texts: Can I repurpose an unused 6" radon pipe as an electrical conduit?

texts:
When the house was built, 3 radon pipes were installed between the basement and the attic.  They are 6" PVC plastic are completely within the walls of the home except for their ends. Only one of them is used by the radon sub-slab system.
I need to get get some 120 volt electrical wiring between my attic and basement.   Can I legally repurpose one of the radon pipes as an electrical conduit?  I'm located in New Hampshire, United States.  I'm not sure what the electrical code would say about doing so.
If I can do so, do I need to use a flexible electrical conduit within the radon pipe, or can I just run the Romex through the radon pipe with no additional shielding?


texts: Lay a damp proof membrane followed by a self levelling compound

texts:
I have an uneven concrete floor inside. I need to put down a damp proof membrane and self levelling compound on top of that. My questions are:

Is there any reason to use a roll of DPM vs a liquid one or vice versa?
Do I need to apply any sort of primer before putting down the SLC on top of the DPM?
How thick does my layer of SLC need to be? I've seen various people quote up to 65mm! I really don't want to lose that much height.

If it makes a difference, vinyl will be stuck down over the SLC.
Thanks in advance


texts: After I soundproof my bedroom wall with QuietRock, will I need to somehow soundproof the floor?

texts:
I am planning to put up a layer of QuietRock on top of existing drywall, potentially with Green Glue between the layers for good measure.  I am doing this because the wall in question is against my neighbor's bedroom wall and these condo walls are thin.  Since I am going to be relocating my computer's subwoofer to my room after the job, I am probably going to need some sort of sound absorption for the subfloor.  Since my room is on the second floor, bass is most likely going to travel along the floor and under the QuietRock, thus defeating the purpose.  If it were on a concrete slab, I probably wouldn't have any worries.

Would mass-loaded vinyl do the trick in dampening floor vibrations from a subwoofer?

Edit: I suggest the vinyl because I am not as concerned about bass waves traveling through the floor since both of our garages are directly beneath us.  It would seem that the vinyl would work in keeping waves traveling horizontally under the drywall.  Knowing what to do here will determine the order in which I proceed.


texts: Issues after capacitor replaced on AC unit

texts:
Had a checkup on my AC/ furnace a couple weeks ago. The technician said the capacitor leaking oil and not pulling enough amps. He recommended me getting a whole new system. (My house was built 6 yrs ago.)

I said no I cannot afford, he replaced the capacitor. I asked so you tested and the amps are all good now. He responds that he did not test anything after he replaced it. That struck me as odd but what do I know I'm just a woman.

Since replacement, the lights dim when unit kicks on, which it has always done that, no worry. While unit is running the lights will dim several more times.
Each time they dim there is an audible pause in the operation of the unit.
Very very short pause like of about a second.  This worries me. I would be very appreciative of what could be the issue and what I should check on my unit.


texts: Is a backing stud on the lock side of a door against an intersecting wall necessary?

texts:
I'm looking at adding a hollow-core door across a finished hallway. On one side of the hall, there's already a stud inside the wall where I intend to install the door. This would be the hinge side of the door. The other side of the hall does not have a stud that aligns with the lock-side of the door. It does, however, have 2 layers of 3/4 inch drywall.
Can I build a rough opening for the door on the outside of the hallway wall even though there is no stud on the lock-side of the door? If I use toggle bolts to secure a stud to the surface of the drywall, would this be adequate for the framing of this door?


texts: Is there enough here to get a ceiling fan?

texts:
I want need a ceiling fan in my living room.  I looked at a few wiki-how type articles on installing them, and it looks like they need more than 2 wires, but when I opened up the light fixture on my ceiling, it looked like it only had 2 wires, a white one and black one.

My apartment is pretty old.  When I looked up there with a flashlight I could see a ceiling joist right next to this box, so I think it is strong enough to hold it.  Do I have everything I need electrically here to install a ceiling fan?


texts: Why isn't my Empire heater getting any gas?

texts:
My Empire heater does not seem to be receiving any gas when I turn or press the pilot knob. I believe the gas is supposed to flow when you press the pilot knob to light the heater but nothing comes out. All the gas faucets are turned on.

What is wrong, and how do I fix it?


texts: Name for a partially-circular metal clasp that fits into an indentation in a tube

texts:
What's the name of the "circle" that the arrow points to?

In the picture is the end of a barbell. That thing that arrow points to is put onto the tube. The tube has a "dent" where that circle fits. There are eyes in the end of the circle that are used to expand it slightly so it can move easily onto the tube and when it's in the dent, it's released so it clasps.


texts: What steps are involved when replacing control board on Carrier unit?

texts: Do I simply just kill the power and replace the control board?  Is there anything else that I need to do?


texts: How to tie the optimal cordelette in this specific 7 point scenario?

texts:
This is a followup to this question: How to fasten one end of a rope to multiple points so as to distribute load equally?

Specifically, I'm following this answer's advice about using a cordelette. Here is an informative article that shows how to tie a cordelette.

These two images from the linked article illustrate the general idea:

This image illustrates a multi-cordelette scenario:

In my case, there are 7 points available amongst which I'd like to equalize the load. They are arranged in a complicated way, and I'm wondering if I can indeed use all of them or not.

Offhand diagram of the potential fixing points' arrangement; notice the area where no rope can pass through:

Color-coded diagram illustrating possible cordelettes:

In the second diagram, the points are numbered 1 through 7, and their connections with the cordelette's knot (marked X) are color-coded. Green is good, meaning I am fairly certain they will help with equalizing the load. Red ropes are bad, either because they go through the no-rope area (rope 7X), or because their V-angle (explained in the article) is too steep, i.e. more than 60 degrees (ropes 1X and 3X).

It's the orange ropes that I'm unsure about. They go around other fixing points so as to reduce the V-angle, but they also increase the load exerted on those go-around points.

For example, the orange 7-6-X rope that goes from 7 to X through 6. Obviously fixing point 7 then takes on part of the load, but since this rope is pulling on 6 as well, load on it is increased as well. The question is: does the 76X rope add more load to its go-around point than it takes off? Same question applies to all three orange ropes in the diagram.

If the orange ropes increase the load on go-around points (6 and 2) more than they reduce it, it's not worth it.

To sum up, the question is: how to tie the optimal cordelette in this scenario? If going by my illustrated idea, would the orange ropes increase the load on points 6 and 2 more than decrease it?


texts: When replacing a circuit breaker in the service panel, how can I determine which neutral is associated with the hot wire?

texts:
In my service panel I would like to upgrade two standard circuit breakers with AFCI breakers.

AFCI circuit breakers differ from standard circuit breakers in that you attach the hot an neutral to the breaker, and then attach the AFCI's coiled white wire to the neutral bus bar. With a standard circuit breaker, the hot wire is attached to the breaker, and the white wire is attached to the neutral bus bar. Here is a diagram of an AFCI breaker:

I shut down the power to the panel, remove the cover and now I need to find the neutral (white wire) associated with each circuit. I see a dozen white wires.

I know which wires are the hot wires for each circuit, but how can I determine which neutral wire is part of that same circuit? I can make some guesses based on the style and markings on the insulation.

And for the record, all of these circuits were installed by licensed electricians. And yes, they used blue wire on some circuits, which is a bit unusual but not unheard of.


texts: How can I install craftsman-style door casing where it interferes with hinges?

texts:
I'm planning on updating the casing (ranch style currently) on several door frames in my house to a craftsman style and I'm not sure how the trim will fit near the hinges.
Right now the reveal (R in the picture) between the edge of the and the casing is just about 1/4", maybe 1/16" - 1/32" under. The edges of the hinges are just about even with casing, sometimes overlapping by ~1/32". The center of the hinge pin comes out from the outer face of the jamb 9/16" (D in the picture).
If I put the craftsman trim up with the same 1/4" reveal it will be very close to the hinges, just about touching really. If I use 9/16" thick trim it should have a little clearance from the hinges because of the radius on the trim. But I think I may use something a little thicker than 9/16" so it comes out from the baseboard trim a little on the bottom, in which case the door casing would be right up next to the hinge.
Is there a typical way to work this out? The only way I really see is to have a larger reveal.


texts: I have a hot and cold pipe that is located in an attic space above my garage that is accessible from the back side.  The problem is this pipes are running through the wall studs and keep freezing in cold weather.  I have this pipes insulated with pipe insulation as well as wall insulation and a second layer of wall insulation that runs over the studs. Is there any way to put some sort of heat tape on this pipe even though it runs through the walls?


texts: What are some quantifiable metrics for comparing digital antennae?

texts:
I currently have an RCA Indoor digital flat amplified antenna (ANT1450BR), which doesn't work well.

It seems as though the flap of a butterfly's wings in Brazil, causes my television signal in New York to scramble.

Needless to say, I'm ready for a new antenna.  I've been looking at outdoor antennas, but I have no qualms about getting another indoor unit (as long as it works).  I'm not looking for product recommendations, rather I'm interested in quantifiable metrics that can be used to compare various antennas.

When shopping for a digital television antenna, what should I be looking at, and how should I compare various makes and models?


texts: Is it ok to use joint compound for a thin or skim coat on new drywall?

texts: Is it ok to use ready mix joint compound on new drywall as a thin coat or skim coat ( if that means the same thing ). I just want to paint the walls or what is best to seal drywall for just painting. I’m just a DIY.  Thanks


texts: How do you calculate the safe working load of chains?

texts: Say for instance you have a chain that has a safe working load of 200 lbs.  If I wanted to hang an item from 4 corners, each with its own chain would I be able to hang 800 lbs?  Or is there some other variable to factor?


texts:
Is there a smaller size that's standard? I pulled out a broken bathtub drain insert because it was broken, and the standard 1-1/2 inch size does not fit. Is there another standard size that fits maybe older homes? The house was built in 2002, but it looks to be a pretty standard shower/tub insert.

The thing is the 1-1/2 inch tub stopper DOES fit through the hole in the tub but not in the actual pipe below (it's too big to thread in). Any ideas?


texts:
I had a geothermal furnace put in recently, and with that, the old heat pump was removed. The electric from the heat pump was run through a hole through the foundation to the panel. The hole is about 3 inches in diameter. The foundation is cinder block, there is a gap between the exterior and interior portion of the block. How do I patch this hole?
If I use the hydraulic cement or spray foam, won't it just fall into the cinder block gap? Do I get some wire mesh and slather concrete over it?
I like to pretend to be a DIY person, but really I don't really know what I'm doing most of the time. So any resources/products/ideas would be greatly appreciated!


texts: How do I determine which phone line goes where, without any special tools?

texts:
I have six (6) phone lines running from my rooms into the basement. They are not terminated as this is a new build. I need to determine which line corresponds to which room.

Is there a way to do this without purchasing a line tester?


texts: Can I branch from a water heater's supply and output lines for a utility sink?

texts:
I'm adding a utility sink to our garage. The water heater is a few feet away, so the cold supply line comes out of the adjacent crawl space, heads up the wall to the heater, the hot water leaves and heads back to the crawl space.

Is there any reason I can't use these lines to supply the utility sink? SharkBite connectors to PEX, run along the wall to the sink?

In the attached picture, you can see the supply & output lines to the heater. I'd tee off of them, run PEX behind the HVAC unit to a sink in the corner.


texts: How should I connect my new ceiling light to this wiring?

texts:
I'm attempting to install a new bathroom fixture and have run into some trouble.

I have two wall switches that control three lights. One switch turns on/off two vanity lights and the other a hanging light I am attempting to install.

On the vanity lights: one has two white and two black wires coming from the wall and connecting to a single white / black from the light itself. The other vanity light has a single white/black from the wall connecting to a single white/black on the light. Both of these lights are somehow connected to a single wall switch

In the ceiling there are 4 black, 4 white, and 4 grounds. Three black wires are all connected by a wire nut leaving 1 black, and 4 white wires. One of these white wires is hot and is marked with black tape

I thought this would be a simple install, but boy was I wrong. Now I’m not sure where my new fixtures wires would tie in with its single white and single black wire. This would be controlled by the second wall switch.
In hindsight, I would have taken a picture prior to any of this. Lessons learned.


texts: Can this be used to size up a flared fitting?

texts:
If my gas line has this on the end of it, with a 1/2 flared connector on the left:

...and my flexible gas line from a kit is expecting 5/8 flares:

...can I use this adapter that came with the kit -- which fits snugly but doesnt look like its expecting a flare on the 1/2" side -- to size up the connector on the valve?

In other words is it okay to put that top picture into the female side of the bottom picture? It's a perfect fit threadwise, but that flared tip makes me nervous.

So, I don't know if a flared connector has to go into a non-flared female side.

This whole flared adapter thing is confusing to me. It makes sense for flares to go into the copper pipe that has its ends rolled up, but it seems like I'm in "flared" mode here for no reason.

Actual photo:

Pipe in floor:


texts:
Are AFCI breakers required on 30 amp dryer circuits and 50 amp furnace and stove circuits or just the 20 and 15's?

I haven't done residential in a long time. Thanks fellas.


texts: I'm installing a new ceiling fan. I have 2 black and 2 white wires coming from the ceiling. 1 black wire is not a power source. The 2 white wires are capped together. I've left the non power black wire source capped and left the 2 white wires capped together. After hooking up everything the fan and light works. Yay!! However, there is a wall switch that should turn on and off the fan and it's not working. I'm assuming it has something to do with the non ground black wire. If so, how do I connect it to the fan switch? Thank you for your time.


texts: Can you vent a portable AC's exhaust through the chimney?

texts: The place I live doesn't have sliding windows so I thought maybe I could vent the hot air from the portable AC through the chimney? The chimney belongs to the fireplace that I don't use. (I've not bought the AC yet.)


texts:
I recently purchased a lawnmower that is in need of a new hood.  The replacement cost for the hood is $400 so I am looking at a way to repair the old.  As you can see its severely cracked.  I am more concerned with structural stability than aesthetics at this point.  Does anyone have any thoughts on fusing the cracked plastic and fixing the gaping hold on the top of the hood?

Or alternatively I am looking if anyone knows of a model that would be compatible as a replacement.  Its a Craftsman DLT2000 (Model 917.272264).


texts: 52 volts on my cable demarc (House Side) to ground

texts:
The cable company demarc coax was burned and melted. New cable installed. Said the problem was bad house wiring. I checked all the plugs and all the lighting in the house. Found no real problem. Then disconnected the house coax cable and tested voltage to ground and found 52 volts. Then I turned off each breaker in the dist box one at a time to see if the voltage went away. Found that the back bedroom breaker did remove the voltage, from 52 to 3. SO i then disconnected every single load on any outlet. Voltage with nothing plugged in was 3 volts. (Cable shield to ground) Knowing that the problem was in the back bedroom I focused on that. I first plugged in the cable company modem, voltage went to 29 volts. I plugged in the cable company router and voltage immediately went to 52 volts.

QUESTION: Has anyone else experienced this problem and what did they do to fix it? The power supplies only have two prongs connected to AC, no ground, so where is the ground potential coming from if not the internal solid state circuits?


texts:
What approach can be used to fabricate and install a door jamb on a 2.5" thick wall? The wall is composed of 2x4 on side (1.5") and two sheets of 1/2" drywall.

Edit:
I have an old 5 panel door that fits the rough opening and old casing that I'd like to use if I can.


texts: Refrigerator is unplugged a couple days for cleaning, once plugged back in will not start

texts:
Amana - brand, perfectly functioning refrigerator,  was unplugged in preparation for cleaning and including in sale of house.

It was unplugged only 2-3 days, but now when it’s plugged back in it won’t start up.

Any idea why this would happen?  Is it destined for the junk yard?


texts: Do I buy a travel adapter or can I simply replace the plug?

texts:
I'm in Singapore and I just bought a dryer. It came with this plug. it's listed as a BS 546/A plug

my wall socket fits this plug

can I simply switch the plug or do I have to buy a travel adapter? I'm not very good with electricity and stuff and I don't want to run the risk of blowing up my dryer!


texts: Old washing machine takes long and longer to do a cycle

texts:
I have an old washing machine from the 90s, likely to be ~25 years old (make and model: Zoppas Pratica PTX43).
The machine has been working fine up to about two months ago. More recently, however, I noticed that every wash cycle seems to be taking longer and longer.
The average wash cycle duration used to be 2 hours, now it exceed 3+ hours and seems on the increase.
None of the searches attempted such as this or this yielded helpful results.
Most of the queries in the search seem to be about recently purchased machines or suggest problems that likely do not apply to my situation.
Symptoms

Cycles get stuck at intermediate areas (between one letter and the other, or at the start of one letter)
Machine emits a humming noise for the duration of the 'stuck' phase
If left unmanaged, this situation can go on for 30+ minutes

What I checked

Ensured that the washing machine filter is clean
Checked that both water intake and waste pipes are not bent
I don't believe water intake is not getting water as the clothes are being washed
Similarly the water is being drained so I do not believe the waste pipe is clogged
The soap drawer is relatively clean/unclogged

What I do as workaround (i.e. to speed up the machine)
When I notice that the machine is stuck, I just manually move the program dial forward a notch, so that the machine moves on to the next action. This is despite the instruction manual advises never to do that.
This manual action allows me to get a cycle duration down to a more acceptable time (i.e. 2-2.5 hours)
My questions

Is this symptom linked to a known/predictable cause that a repairer can reasonably fix or am I better off getting a new machine?
Is there any danger that this issue, combined with my disregarding the manual instructions not to manually move the program dial, is likely to lead to unexpected outcomes (e.g. some electrical short-circuit)?


texts:
I'm re-framing my first floor and using PT wood everywhere where there is a possibility of area being flooded.

PT wood is your typical 2x4(s) from Home Depot MCA - micronized copper azole chemicals.

I guess I've never realized that PT lumber is corrosive. Which collated nails should I use in my framing gun? Stainless?


texts: Is it normal for a siphon in a toilet cistern to tilt to the side when the toilet is flushed?

texts:
I've noticed some cisterns have siphon units that are not secured at the top. Every time the toilet is flushed, the top of the siphon moves or tilts to one side. For example, in the following youtube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijVUCgAWTF4

Is this part of normal operation, or is there is any merit to securing the siphon in these cases?


texts:
My home air conditioning / heat only blows ambient temperature air through the vents, there is no temperature change through the unit.  Inspecting it, the condensor fan is spinning, as is the evaporator fan (since I feel the air from the vents).  I'm hearing a strange noise from what I assume is the compressor, and the lights in my house dim when the noise is occurring.

Here is a video of it happening: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZQc6V8ojNN4qEFAW2 .  The lights dim when the "hum" occurs.

I don't have the tools to check the refrigerant pressures, but I am comfortable with electrical.  Is it worth trying to inspect the capacitor, or do I likely have other issues?

I have a Goodman Packaged Unit/RTU Model PHKJ042-1.  No breakers are tripped, cycling them has no effect.


texts:
I've been puzzling over the problem for a couple of hours now, where my fridge   has very low water pressure at the outlet of the ice maker supply line.

The line is 1/4 in copper and uses a 1/4 outlet on the sink cold supply as its source, with an in-line 1/4 needle valve (no saddle valve).  The line presumably runs through the attic.

Water pressure at the sink is fine.
Water pressure on both sides of the needle valve is fine (I replaced it anyway because the seals started leaking when I fooled around with it).
Water pressure at the back of the fridge is almost nothing.

What has me puzzled is that if I disconnect both ends of the copper line, water seems to flow out of the line without much restriction.  I'd expect it to dribble out, but it seems to flow normally.

After hooking the line back up... no pressure.

What am I missing?

Update:  I replaced the fridge with a new unit (due to a presumably unrelated compressor failure) and the problem persists.  Looks like I need to run a new line.


texts: Can I add a light switch that overrides a set of existing switches?

texts:
I have three rows of lights. Each row has its own single pole preset dimmer switch. I want to keep them on a separate switch like that plus adding the fourth  switch to shut of all the lights with that fourth switch.

Any help please.
Thanks


texts: How do I attach natural stone to backerboard in a shower

texts: I am making a custom shower, planning to cut my own stone slabs from stones found in my area. They will be granite, quartz, some others, that I cut with my own saw. I'm wondering how to attach the stones to backerboard so that the assembly is waterproof. The pan will be thin concrete over backerboard as well. Considering attaching expanded metal to backerboard with a 1-2mm gap and then using standard thinset buttered to back of stone then setting to wall. But then how to waterproof the assembly?


texts: I live in a two storey house with 3 toilets (two on second floor and one on the main floor)  the main floor toilet after flushing drains to a low level . I have inspected for water under and around toilet and even underneath in basement and now water , I have replaced the fill tube and the gasket between tank and bowl. if the vent was restricted would that not affect all toilets. any thoughts


texts: 3 phase panel in shop showing weird voltage!

texts:
I had a air compressor stop working.  It was buzzing. So I checked voltage.  It’s a single phase compressor one side is getting 120v the other is reading 224v. Upon further voltage testing I found that every two breakers is reading the same.  Most of my equipment that is double pull is now not working.

Mains from the power company read a:120 B: 230 C:120

Is my panel bad?


texts:
Our house has 10 wired smoke detectors.  They are currently 2-wire sensors - but each is on a separate home run back to the panel...each has an EOL resistor at the detector.

The old panel (a DMP I think) had some kind of auxiliary box to take each of the separate circuits and either combine them as one zone, or have them as individual zone (I don't know, it never worked properly)

We now have a new Ademco vista panel...and obviously this poses a problem with this unusual configuration.

However - although they are 2-wired, the actual wiring is a 4-wire run (with the green/white just snipped at both ends.

What's the best approach to get them all working with the Vista panel? Switch to 4-wire with home runs, or try and convert to a daisy chained 2-wire?

I've never seen them wired this way...so a but stumped.


texts: Should Ground and Either Neutral or Hot be Lighting Circuit Testing?

texts:
Summary

Why might hot and ground light a circuit tester; neutral and ground also light; but hot and neutral do not light a circuit tester?

Details

I opened an old box to branch a new receptacle.

I used the circuit tester against the hot and neutral wires. It did not light.

I tested the circuit tester against hot and ground. It lit.

Neutral and ground also lit the tester.

I have never seen this before. What's going on? Is it possible the previous homeowner accidentally used ground for hot or neutral?


texts: Connecting PVC to a 4.5 inch ID cast iron hub

texts:
I'm repairing a toilet flang on an 80-year-old home with old cast iron plumbing. What I have is a 4.5 inch inside diameter cast iron hub. A 4 inch ID PVC pipe drops in nice and snug, but I cant figure out a good way to create a seal.
Hub pictured here:

This next picture shows you what the previous owner did. They just droped 4 inch ABS in and put some kind of glue or plumbers putty around the edge. It obviously did not create a good seal.

A few places on line have suggested using a compression donut such as the one below. However, the 4 inch compression donut is too large to fit in the hub and the 3 inch compression donut is too small.

What other options do I have? I am at a loss at this point. Some other suggestions have been a rubber sleeve, but I have not found one that would fit.


texts: How to predict when the electrical infrastructure on my 1950s rental is going throw a breaker?

texts:
I live in an old house; it has old electrical infrastructure.  Last night it was really hot, and we were running an external dishwasher on the same circuit as the TV and a fan and a ceiling fan.  Only the TV is connected with an extension cord because there just isn't a three prong outlet in that room, but sadly it's still on the same circuit.  The TV is an older flat screen from maybe 2003 or so, the dish washer is brand new.

When it was hot last night the breaker kept switching off, and I had to unplug everything from that circuit and reset the breaker.

Is there any way to calculate how much a breaker is likely to be able to handle, so I don't have to keep running up and down the stairs to fix this?

I do have things running in other parts of the house as well, but they aren't on the same circuit.  They only blew once or twice; the one in question blew like 4 or 5 times last night.


texts: I've been told that water-heaters build up sediment at the bottom over time, and should be flushed out (ie. drained, then allowed to refill).  Is there value in this exercise?  Does that value exceed the cost of the hot water lost in the process?


texts: Why do the speeds of two ceiling fans vary on all speed settings?

texts: I have two ceiling fans on one branch of a 20 amp circuit. One fan runs faster than the other on all three speeds. Could this more likely be due to a loose neutral or connection or a malfunction of the fan?


texts: How do you troubleshoot a baseboard heater that is not heating up?

texts: I have baseboard heat and we are not getting heat on one room.  Can't bleed air from the baseboard itself.  How do I troubleshoot the issue?


texts: Why does my garden hose quick release keep popping apart?

texts:
I recently bought a new garden hose.  The hose seems to connect snugly to the existing fitting on the tap, but it leaks a bit and as soon as the water pressure in the hose goes above a trickle, it pops off.  Any idea what's wrong or how to fix it?

Note that the loose plastic sleeve in the 2nd picture doesn't go all the way up, but as far as I can tell it's not meant to provide a seal anyway.  Also, I have no idea what either side of the hose/fitting are called, which makes searching the Internets a bit difficult.


texts: How can I improve my crawlspace's heating efficiency in the winter?

texts:
Home is located in NE Pennsylvania. Some details:

Crawlspace

Runs entirety of the home's footprint (~1000sqft)
Approximately 5' high
1/2 (2.5') Below grade
Vapor barrier on the floor, sump pump
Cinder block walls, piers
Incoming water pipe, water heater (40gal tank, electric), and water piping for home is in crawlspace
Has vents to outside - closed in fall/winter (condensation not an issue in NE PA)

Currently I have an electric heater hanging from the rafters set to about 48º that is thermostatically controlled (this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXEZV/ ). This heats the crawlspace during the cooler months to maintain an above-freezing temperature.

The home is occupied only on the weekends in the winter, and empty during the week. While unoccupied I turn off the incoming water with a valve, and drain the upstairs completely. The downstairs (just above the crawl space) is not drained. Rooms without plumbing are shut, rooms with plumbing have baseboard heaters set to 42ºF with the doors/cabinet doors opened.

(some details about inside: there is a single mini-split unit in the main area of the home set to 48ºF that maintains the temperature in the entirety of the home while unoccupied. Also inside is a newly-installed propane ventless fireplace with millivolt remote and thermostat feature - minimum setting of 45ºF. (I haven't tried using this to maintain non-freezing temps yet - not sure how I feel about having a fire burning in an unoccupied home).)

During January/February, 2019, while unoccupied the temperature would approach 0-15ºF, and the total daily energy usage would approach 60-100 kWh. Taken over a month at about $0.13/kWh, and an average usage of 80 kWh, this is about $10/day to heat the the crawlspace to 48ºF.

Fuel options in the home:

Liquid Propane - 120 gal tank exposed to elements
Electric (120v or 220v)

Here are some ideas I've considered to reduce crawlspace energy usage:

Heat tape on the pipes (plugs into 120v, heats only the pipes)
Install foam insulation board between piers below house and reduce the footprint needing heat (the pipes and water heater are on the front half of the 1000 sqft crawlspace - could reduce "envelope" to 500sqft)
Install liquid propane heater (I've read about condensation issues with propane heaters in crawlspaces - and combustion danger)
Drain the pipes (this is inconvenient because we use the house on the weekends)

Does anyone else have a similar plumbing situation / weather / occupancy rate in their home and have opinions on the suggested solutions for reducing energy usage while making sure the pipes don't burst when the temperature drops outside?


texts: Furnace Inducer Whirrs on and off before igniting, works when I tap circuit board

texts:
My furnace gets the signal from the thermostat, then about half of the time, the inducer motor whirrs on and off over and over. Sometimes it runs continuously without ever lighting.

When I open it up, hold down the cover button and tap the circuit board the light on the board comes back on and the furnace works normally.

I replaced the circuit board last year but the problem persists. I'm assuming there's a bad connection somewhere - where should I look?


texts: Can I temporarily remove the bottom stairs on a staircase to help move furniture?

texts:
I just moved into a new place and really want to move my awesomely large (and somewhat expensive) sofa into the basement. The problem is that the stairs end in narrow hallway running perpendicular to the stairwell:

There is not enough room to get the sofa down the stairs and around the corner to the right without modifying the structure:

I'm wondering if it's (a) possible and (b) not entirely stupid to temporarily remove the bottom stairs and carpet cover to accommodate the size of the sofa:

The crawlspace floor is directly below the stairs, so I can access them from underneath if necessary. I'm also open to other suggestions. The only other entrance into the basement is through a window that is too small for the sofa.

Update:

Here is a picture of the underside of the stairs:


texts: What windows should be used to soundproof from traffic noise?

texts:
I am having a house built by a builder. On my contract, it is specified that 'Sound Attenuating' windows would be installed.

This is important as the house backs up to a busy road which provides a lot of noise. The seller agent sold it to me as sound proof windows, but the contract only states 'Sound Attenuating'.

It is now time to order the windows, and they are being ordered as double pane, one pane standard 1/8" thick, the other 3/16" thick. From what I have read this barely provides an STC of 31 Source - Vinyl 1/8+3/16 Dual

According to Wikipedia, for STC, 30 is described as Loud speech can be understood fairly well, normal speech heard but not understood

I feel like they are filling the contract technically, but not fulfilling the spirit of what the contract was intended to do which is to protect from the road noise.

What windows or soundproofing method should be used at a MINIMUM to not hear, say, 90% of road noise?


texts: How do I build a fence with zero experience?

texts:
I've never built a fence or have never done any outdoor construction. I'm pretty handy and do most of my interior maintenance. I have a total of 780 feet where I need to put up a fence. I'm still undecided if I want to build a wall of cinder blocks or an actual fence. I'm in Florida so the fence needs to be sturdy for high wind storms. This is why I am considering a wall instead.

However, pricing is a factor. Fence or wall, they are both pricey since this is to cover a 1.24 acre property. Obviously, wall/cinder would be more expensive but fence or wall, they are both $20k+ to do at minimum not counting anything in the front yet. That cost is for aluminum fencing with labor but I don't want to go aluminum and want privacy. With materials, time, patience and some friends, I figured we can build something solid and elegant. I just don't know where to get started.

For the sake of this post, lets just go with a wall. The cost here will be invested in materials but not labor even though time is money. With that said, here are some questions:

What appropriate tools should I purchase for a job like this?
Considering I'll be doing more outdoor work in the future like
pavers, asphalt and concrete, the investment in the right tools would
be great. Cost of materials and tools would probably be A LOT less
expensive than paying someone to do the work.
How do I get started considering I have never done this?
Any good docs/sites that have step by step guides on how to properly dig, rebar, etc?

I have a pickup truck so renting heavy machinery from my local Home Depot isn't an issue either. I also have a trailer to haul materials as well.

For what its worth, my property is flat so I won't need to change elevation when building a property wall. If this sounds more trouble than what it's worth, my second option would be a wooden fence by horizontally placed rather than vertical. Only the posts would be vertical, obviously.

Thanks in advance


texts: Flat roof membrane not welded at edge of each layer, need help

texts:
The roofing company I hired finished applying Polyfresko bitumen on my garage, and instead of welding the beginning and end of new layers at the edges, they overlapped one layer over another by about 6 inches, resulting in a “hump” of overlapping layers.

Is this normal? I thought the membrane would be completely flat. First example:

The overlap can be seen from the driveway:

Where one sheet ends, they overlapped the new sheet by about 6 inches instead of welding at the edge of the sheet:


texts:
I'm working on converting an external garage into an office.  I've removed the original flat roof and replaced with a pitched roof.  I designed and built the roof trusses myself.  I then put underlayment on the timbers and tiles until the job was complete.  The tiles overlap and are screwed to the woodwork.

The problem is that the pitch of the roof is such that when the rain is at an angle, water gets in at a few spots.

The question is, what's the best way to resolve this?  I don't want to redo the roof, so I was thinking of using Marine plywood secured inside immediately under the tiles with felt on the plywood, creating a run off to the bottom of the roof and to the outside.

Would this work? Is there a better solution?

Another thing I was thinking of was using expanding foam instead between the tiles to seal up any gaps or places where water could get in.

[edit] Please see below a screen shot of the roof structure taken from 123D Design:

The trusses are 462mm apart, each truss is made from pressure treated timber 38mmx63mm.  The root is 4840mmx4226mm.

The underlay is from Jewsons, http://www.jewson.co.uk/search-results/?keywords=roof%20underlay

The tiles overlay at least 2 inches.  The underlay overlaps approx 3/4 inches.  There is nothing under the underlay except the trusses.  There are at least 2 leaks.  The pitch of the root is approx. 30 degrees.

Hope this is the required information.


texts: Converting a Chandalier Hard wire to an outlet

texts:
we just moved in to a new apt in New Jersey and the previous tenant had this really nice string light fixture with colorful lampshades etc (pictured below). Unfortunately, he took them with him when he left. My girlfriend and I want to DIY a light fixture that is essentially string lights wrapped and hanging from a wood beam that will be hung from the ceiling. However, the issue is all the lights she bought are traditional plugs that you would plug into a wall outlet.
I keep getting so many different answers on the right way/wrong way and complexity of turning the hardwired into an outlet so we can run an extension cord from the ceiling down to a surge protector which will be hidden on the beam and used to plug in the 4-5 string lights she has
here is what the outlet looks like. I'm wondering how complicated this is, what I would need to do it and if its something better left to an electrician.
thanky you so much in advancethis is what the fixture currently looks like[


texts: Is frost build-up normal at the ingoing/outgoing pipes to the freezer evaporator?

texts:
Our freezer and fridge got worse and worse at cooling over the last week until yesterday I had to throw everything away.

I opened up the freezer and fresh food evaporator compartments. Both evaporators are doing some cooling. The fans for both are working.

The only thing that looks abnormal to me is this frost build-up in the freezer. But it's only at the incoming/outgoing evaporator pipes, not on the fins.

Is this normal?


texts: Can I have a 120 volt branch off a 120/240 volt circuit?

texts:
So I'm wiring up my woodshop and I've got a question about branching a 120 volt circuit off a 240 circuit.

I'm running 12/3 for this circuit coming of a 20 amp 2 pole breaker. The thought for this specific circuit would be for my dust collector and air compressor. Right now both are 120 and I'm just doing a shared neutral with one set of plugs in the box being one circuit and the other being the other circuit. Black and white to 1 set of outlets and red and white to the other.

But I was wondering if I upgrade my dust collector to one that requires 240, could I run the 240 and 120 circuit with that same 12/3? So essentially black and white to the 120 circuit and black and red to the 240?


texts:
So, as it stands now I am hoping to build a hot tub from lumber. I've done ponds and makeshift pools and such, but this I want to be a lasting thing. It'll be framed and then lined with a thick rubber.

The hot tub will be rectangular or square, on a professionally poored concrete pad. I don't think I'm worried about weight of the tub pushing onto concrete, correct me if I'm wrong. I plan on using lumber in the 2x4 to 4x4 range. But could go bigger.

My concern is would the weight of the water put to much force pushing out? Thinking like either 6'x6'x3'. Or 8x8x3'. Maybe a 5'x10'x3'. I may increase depth to four foot.

Any of you guys see an issue with the weight of the water if I fully frame and support the outer structure? Or anything else?


texts: Which is better for deck flooring: 2x6 or 1x6 deck boards?

texts:
My current deck flooring is done with 2x6x10' boards, however they have degraded to the point now where they need to be replaced.

I'm wondering if there are any specific pros or cons for using the same 2x6x10' boards, vs. 1x6 deck boards?  Of course I realize that the 1x6 boards wont support the same amount of weight as the original boards, but I think the 2x6's might have been a bit overkill anyway.  Besides price, is there anything else I should be basing my decision on?


texts:
As incandescent & compact fluorescent light bulbs in my home have been dying, I've been replacing them with LED bulbs, as those have dropped in price considerably (the local electric company's subsidizing pretty decent sales in some nearby chain stores, too) and should last much longer. No problems with the standard on/off bulbs yet, but I've begun to lose lights in dimmable fixtures.

I've read elsewhere that the rotary style switch won't work with LED bulbs (this was confirmed by putting a couple dimmable bulbs in a dimmable fixture in the dining room and watching the crazy poltergeist effect when the dial was set anywhere between off and 100% on).

That's not a huge deal for me, to swap out a couple of switches as needed. But I now have an even more unusual problem. In my living room we've got a ceiling fan, which the previous owner purchased @ Home Depot some 10-12 years ago. It's got 3 sockets (60W max apiece, I believe) and its remote is the only means of controlling its ability to dim the lights. On a lark, I tried replacing a couple of the bulbs that burned out recently with a pair of dimmable 60W-equivalent LED bulbs. With all 3 bulbs in there--the 2 LED + 1 40W incandescent--all 3 dimmed just fine, but were much too bright for the room, so I simply removed the lone incandescent. Unfortunately, when the light was off, the LED bulbs never fully turned off. Only when I had the 3rd bulb, the incandescent, in with them would the light function properly.

I elected to purchase 3 40W-equivalent bulbs, thinking that having all 3 in there would solve my problem of brightness and the weird empty socket keeping the light from turning off all the way. Unfortunately, with all 3 sockets occupied by dimmable LED bulbs, the fixture will not shut off fully. It dims perfectly fine, but the lights are, otherwise, on all the time. Any ideas what's causing my problem, and any potential solutions (short of "buy a new fan," I hope).

And, for whatever it's worth:

fan: Hampton Bay Sussex 52"
wireless remote: Hampton Bay UC7083T
old incandescent bulb: 40W, A15 bulb, E26 base (brand unknown)
first LED bulbs (60W-equivalent): Zilotek, A19, 120V, 9W, 60Hz, 80mA, 3000K, 800 lumens, dimmable
newest LED bulbs (40W-equivalent): Feit, A19, 120V, 6.5W, 60Hz, 66mA, 3000K, 450 lumens, dimmable


texts: Should I plaster the walls in my new house?

texts:
I have a newly built house and I'm evaluating how to proceed with the painting of the rooms, to define what I can do myself and what has to be done by professionals.

The ceiling is already spray-plastered, it looks rough and nice.

The walls are of two types: concrete (outer walls, grey) or gypsum (inner walls, yellowish). The builder used plaster to make the bricks uniform, that means that he used it only or almost only in the joints between bricks. There is no thick layer over the whole walls as I was used to see in the past.

I have NO drywall.

See for example the following two photos (one has been taken before the ceiling got plastered).

Some corners (see the second photo) are visibly darker where the roof has been sealed last.

My plan was to spray a primer all over the walls (not ceiling) and then go with one (ceiling) or two (walls) coats of latex paint.

I was suggested that plastering the whole wall may be a better option, to improve the ability of the wall to absorb and release humidity and to provide a better surface. Also, one coat of paint may be enough if the surface is already white.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of plastering? should I do it?


texts: How Do I Bond My Antenna to Home Electrical Ground?

texts:
I'm about to install an Over The Air (OTA) antenna as the first phase of cutting the cord.

I understand the antenna and coax cable need to be grounded. I can purchase and drive a grounding rod where the coax enters the house and connect the coax and mast ground lines to that grounding rod no problem.

The thing that's preventing me from going forward with the job is that I'm not sure how to then bond the antenna grounding rod to my home electric ground. I've read that this should be done with a 6 AWG copper wire, but I was planning on routing the coax into my house where my satellite coax currently enters, which is on a different side of the house from my water pipe and my breaker box.

Of course the satellite installer didn't ground the dish or the coax cable, so I can't reuse any of that.

Is it okay to have the jumper from antenna ground to home electric ground just laying on the dirt outside the house? My concern is that I don't want to bring a (probably) unsheathed conductor, whose entire purpose is to carry lightning, into my house. I had read something online about not having the bonding wire within some distance of the soil, but that didn't reference any NEC codes.

I just want to do this right so I don't set my house on fire. Lightning running down a 6 gauge wire routed through my walls seems exactly like how that would happen, but I'm not sure how else to attach the two grounds.


texts: Will dark gutters stay ice free better than light colored gutters?

texts:
There is a good answer at the related question What are the pros and cons of installing a roof heating cable? about ice dams and such.  I have a dark colored roof and I have dark colored leaf covers (Gutter Helmet, brand).  I have a roof snow rake, and I am generally able to keep the ice dams from being a problem.  But my gutters and down spouts are white.

When you pull the snow and ice away from the edge of the roof (roof rake), and the sun hits, stuff melts and in my experience on many of those cold sunny days, it drains nicely into the gutters and downspouts where it freezes solid.

If I paint or replace my gutters, would a dark color add sufficient energy to the gutters and downspouts to impact keeping them unfrozen?  I looked around online and nothing jumped out at me.  It seems obvious that a dark colored item in the sun is going to be warmer than a light colored item, but is there a reasonable chance for dark colored gutters and drains to help with ice issues?


texts: Is the result of my lead paint test kit positive or negative?

texts:
I have used the M3 lead test kits to test the blue pain in our living room and I am confused about the result and its interpretation.
The first image was a test I did 2 days ago. in the first 30 seconds didn't turn red from what I could see but after that started to turn this off purple colour which is very difficult to interpret.

second image same wall about a meter across. (image taken 10-15 mins post test, brown/purple colour didn't start till after the initial 30 second test swab around the 1 minuet mark but deeper colour developed 5-10 mins post)

3rd image another wall in the room. (similar situation/progression to 2nd image)

4th image on a wall with paint known to not have lead in it (picture taken 10-15 mins post test).

final image, another wall in the living room, seemingly same paint as first images but on a different wall in the room (image taken 15-20 mins post test)

so, as you can see some varying results. my main difficulty is i cant tell if the purple/pink/brown is positive or not. and its dried a different more reassuring yellow colour on the known lead free paint and one of the other walls. the paint is flecking from half the wall down and fine above this. the final image (which is still suspect paint that we are testing) is intact over that entire wall.
I have read (from no where official) that it can change colour to browns/ purple if some other elements/additive/minerals are present. I have also heard it theorised that is is just the way the test dries and 'oxidises' but the test on the lead free didn't yield the same result if that was the case you would imagine it would.
any advice/guidance/suggestions?
Thanks again, really want to get on with the room as we have little space and this was only meant to be a quick redecorating project while isolated (had all materials at home already didn't travel out for it, essential travel and all).
any suggestions / help guidance?


texts:
What is the expectation for unused fluorescent bulbs that are 1 year, 5 year and 10 years old?   In general, do fluorescent bulbs appreciably degrade over the first 10 years?

I am referring to tubes and NOT CFLs.


texts:
I have a GFI receptacle in my kitchen that feeds four other receptacles.

It tripped the other day and I cannot get it to reset.  All of the other receptables on the circuit are not functioning which is to be expected.  I first thought it was a bad GFI receptacle so I replaced it to no avail.

I then checked power at the electrical panel and all of the breakers for the house appear to be providing power.  The breakers for the GFI receptacles in the bathrooms have test buttons on them and trip when it is pressed, however the kitchen GFI breakers are standard non GFI breakers.

The confusing part is that when I go to the GFI receptacle I am not seeing the 120V power on my meter that I am seeing in the other working receptacles in the house and at the electrical panel.  I checked both sets of wires coming into the receptacle and various combinations of hot and neutral just to be sure I was testing the correct wires.  One pair gives me 3.9V and the other 0.04V.

I have gone through and verified that all of the other GFI receptacles in the house are functioning correctly so I don't think it is a separate GFI feeding this one that is causing the problem.

What would the next steps for testing this problem be?  It was functioning correctly before it tripped so I am assuming that it is not a wiring issue that would require an electrician at this point.

I have a meter and all of the necessary tools to do any of the work I am just not sure where to begin troubleshooting.


texts:
I would like your suggestions/experience/opinions on designing steel windows+patio doors, using hollow sections (RHS as they call them) and angle sections.
The window style I have in mind (but can not afford to buy and transport to my country) are the iconic Crittall windows.

(first image was taken from here, second image from here)

Alas! Crittall use a special steel section which they manufacture themselves and I can not find in the market here. So I have to use steel sections which I can find in my country: angles, tees and hollow sections:

As far as aesthetics are concerned, my main worry is "thin sight-line", i.e. the frame to be thin, maybe a width of 30mm.

I have solved (i think) life-expectancy and maintenance issues as I intend to bath-galvanise them and then (optionally) powder paint them to give them a nice gloss color and life expectancy (maintenance free) of 20 years at least, if not 50!

The welding will be undertaken by a professional.

My main problem is air-tightness. It is easy to design on paper but in practice I do not know how efficient it will be.

Basically I follow the rule that when closed, the frame of a window should 'kiss'/'push against' the steel case (screwed on the wall) at two different places. Thus air trying to get inside the house must by-pass two obstacles/seals/weatherstrips.

I also intend to 'glue' (somehow, or even screw) on the steel frame rubber/insulation foam/seals (weatherstrip they call it) - something which aluminium and crittall windows do very well because their sections have been designed to have a channel where the rubber seal goes in and stays there without need of glue or screw. Glueing on metal is probably a nightmare.

The basic idea can be seen from these crittall drawings:
http://www.crittall-windows.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/HOMELIGHT-DG-WEB-DOWNLOAD-11-15.pdf

There will be two types.

1) Opening out, 'casement' windows, height 2m, width of each pane 0.6m.
They will be hinged on the sides, top and bottom. Here is a drawing of the
side-section (i hope it makes sense):

2) Swivel or vertical pivot type. The hinges will be at the middle of the window frame, top+bottom. Sorry no drawing for this.

My questions:

1) Do you have any comments/suggestions about the air-tightness of the design in the image attached?

2) Do you have any suggestions on how to implement the vertical pivot window type (using the same RHS, flat and angles as with the openout window) as far as air-tightness is concerned. Suggestions about the hinge?

3) From the drawing you can see a wooden frame at the inside of the window securing the glasspane against the exterior steel angle. This wood will be screwed onto the steel frame. What do you think as far as safety is concerned?

4) What is the best way to secure the weatherstrips/seals onto the metal frame?

Notes:

1) glass will be double-glazed 5mm+18mm airgap+6mm, weighting about 30Kg/m2, so for a 2m x 0.6m window, the total weight will be 45Kg plus, say, 10Kg of steel=55Kg.

2) The windows will imitate the crittall look of horizontal splits every 30cm by using a one-piece glass pane and then welding on the outside thin pieces of metal horizontally.

I have given only an outline of the project, if you need clarification let me know.

thanking you in advance,

bliako


texts: How do you frame an exterior wall over 8 ft tall?

texts:
For a residence, normal 2x4 studs are used to frame 8 ft tall exterior wall.

How do you build exterior walls over 8 ft tall?

What kind of studs? 2x6 or steel posts?

What do the codes say? (Houston, TX area)

Would it be a lot more expensive, percentage wise?


texts: LED Light bulbs always blow prematurely in ceiling fans

texts:
I've seen related questions to this - where the standard bulbs keep blowing prematurely in a ceiling fan. As a result of the general issues of wobbly fans and possible current instability, I got some LEDs - and for about 2 months the results were astounding.

However, they both just died on me, about a week apart from each other. I'm really left at a loss now as how to proceed. I don't like the wiring in this house - its dodgy at best and down right dangerous otherwise. The previous owners really did not care for taking time etc to be careful. The house has been built and maintained on the cheap.

So - anyone got any ideas what I can do to either fault find or fix this issue?


texts: How do I maximize light gain and minimize heat gain for my glass wall?

texts:
How to get maximum benefit of daylight while optimizing air-conditioner benefit for a glass wall (currently) of size 11' * 8' (total 88 square feet exposed).

Facts:
The glass wall never gets direct sun rays.
The external temperature (in summer) is around 45 Celsius.
The indoor temperature is 35 Celsius.
The target temperature of Air conditioner is 23 Celsius.


texts: Level hardwood floor that was covered by baseboard

texts:
I recently removed my baseboard to be able to put the free standing wardrobe close to the wall.
I noticed that the approximately 1 inch of floor where the baseboard was sitting on is a little higher than the rest of the room - don't know why. Maybe it was an old floor?
I need to level the floor, or even remove it, so the wardrobe sits straight on the floor.

What would you recommend? Using a rotary tool with a sanding drum would do it?

This "uncovered" floor is maybe 1/6 inch higher than the rest of the room.
A little less than 1 inch wide (baseboard depth) and 60 inches long.
Ideally I should not remove it, because there will be a gap.

Thanks!


texts: Washing machine drain into 4" cast waste stack

texts:
Can I drain my washing machine into a 4" diameter cast iron stack?
I want to take my washing machine out of the basement and reinstall it in kitchen above.
I would like to drill into the stack to take  1 1/2" pvc drain pipe. The washer drain is 8 feet from the stack. It's currently using trap, and back up valve.


texts: New home. I replaced all the old outlets with decos and reinstalled. I plugged in a light, 2 prong, and no issue. I plugged in a tester to check see that the others were wired correctly and the green light came on for a second and then the breaker tripped. I removed all outlets , left wired, to look for a ground fault but nothing. Could this be a problem in the panel?


texts: How to get rid of gophers in the back yard without poison?

texts:
We don't want to put out poisons, and we have tried most everything else with no success:

vibrating pegs
traps
water in the holes
pepper

Its to the point where we're ready to pave over the lawn. Has anyone found a method that worked?