texts: Connect Single 3-way Light in 3-gang Box (Lutron Caseta)

texts:
I have a 3-gang box with the following 4 cables that I need to wire up 2 indoor lights and remove 1 outdoor light from the circuit. (I plan to connect the outdoor light up to a different breaker switch) But I can only get 1 light to work with a dimmer and the other can only be permanently on.

1 cable from the breaker with black, white, and ground wires

1 cable to an outdoor light with black, white, and ground wires (this I'm removing from the circuit)

1 cable to a kitchen fluorescent light with black, white, and ground wires

1 cable to a dimmable dining room light with black, white, red, and ground wires (I know this is part of a 3 way light with 1 other switch I've correctly set up)

I want to hook these lights up the following way to Lutron Caseta smart switches/dimmers

remove the outdoor light from the circuit (I think I can do this by just disconnecting the outdoor cable wires and capping them)

connect the kitchen light to a Caseta PD-5WS-DV Switch

connect the dining room light wires to power from the breaker (it's already connected to a Caseta Dimmer at the gang box at the other end)

All the white neutral wires are currently connected. And all the ground wires are currently connected.
When I connect the black breaker wire to only the dining room black and red wires, the dimmer works.
The problem is when I attempt to connect the kitchen light up to the Caseta Switch. The kitchen light doesn't come on and the switch LED doesn't turn on. But if I connect the black breaker wire directly to black kitchen wire, the light is on permanently.

Why isn't the switch working with the kitchen light?
How do I disconnect the outdoor light cable from this circuit?
How do I connect the dining room wires and the kitchen wires to the breaker wires so they work together (and is that in series or parallel)?


texts: Should the tiny gap between exterior window trim and the window housing be caulked?

texts:
I have a home with Hardie Board siding and trim. There is a tiny gap between the edge of the installed windows and the Hardie trim board ( Please see the gap where my finger is pointing in the picture below). It’s kind of hard to see in picture because the gap itself is black and blends in with the window, however, the gap is a around 1/8th to 1/16th of an inch wide and goes all the way around the window. The gap is due to the white trim not completely touching the window housing itself.

Should this gap be caulked or am I missing something? I plan on using silicone to seal that gap on the top, left, and right sides. I’d leave the bottom unsealed so it doesn’t trap moisture.


texts: How to fix placement of over-stove exhaust

texts:
The microwave over my stove expired. I pulled it down, and discovered that the ductwork to attach the fan to the outside world was misplaced: it's about two inches to the right of where it should be. The builders applied tape and sheet metal screws to attach the flap and duct to the old microwave out of line with the fans.

I'd rather not produce a repeat of that charming bit of 'craftsmanship'd. Can someone help me plan a proper repair? There's a round duct that goes out through the wall of the house, and it's bonded to the rectangular duct that you can see in the picture. I've pulled all the sheet-metal screws and tape to get a look at what's going on. Hypothetically, I'd want to somehow detach this 'box' from the 'pipe', and mount a new one with a suitably asymmetric hole for the pipe to compensate for the failure of the center of the pipe to match the center of the stove. I don't know how the two pieces of ductwork were connected to start with, and I'm loath to attack what I've pictured here with a sawzall (or equivalent) without a clear plan of what I'll do thereafter.


texts: How to minimize ceiling "backwash" of air circulation in an attic HVAC system

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I'm remodeling and placing a new HVAC unit in the attic.  The dining room is central on the house, adjoined by the living room, kitchen, service bathroom, and (directly or via a hall) all three bedrooms.

The unit is 3 ton, and the house is 1200 square feet.

Also, the dining room will have a tray ceiling notched up 12".  The tray will be about 11' by 11', and the dining room 14' x 14'.  The intake will be in the upper section, so 9' above the dining room floor.

I want to stop "backwash" of air directly from the outlet vents (esp. in the dining room and kitchen) to the intake.  So far I'm intending to keep them as far apart as possible, and also point the vanes slightly away from the intake, but are there any other good options available?

Also, I'm mainly concerned about efficient AC more than heat.  This is central Texas.


texts: Using a 24 volt ac relay with a 16 volt ac doorbell circuit

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I have recently purchased a doorbell camera for the front door. It has the ability to ring my current doorbell but I use an intercom system with an electronic chime module. After watching many you tube videos and doing research I have determined that I must use a relay between the doorbell button and the chime module. The intercom system uses two (2) 16 volt AC transformers that are hidden behind the intercom which I would like to use to power the doorbell circuit and relay. However there are no 16 volt AC relays, only 12 V or 24 V. I could purchase a 24 Volt AC transformer, but there is no way to hide it inside the intercom master station and so it would look unsightly, and I prefer not to go that route.
Can I use the 16 V power supply with a 24 V relay, which would be 75% of the relay's rated voltage? This would not be a constantly energized relay, but only a momentary contact closure to trip the relay and complete the circuit to ring my intercom's doorbell chime. I feel this would work, but I'm checking with those who should know if there might be any problems or unforeseen consequences?


texts: How well will a machine rated for 120 volts 60 hz work with 120 volts 50 hz?

texts: Moving oversea wanting to know how well my Zaaz Vibration Platform Fitness Machine will work with a transformer that will step down 220 volts to 120 volts with 50hz?


texts: Why do my bedroom and kitchen lights switch off or on without operating them from the switch?

texts:
I connected a ceiling Fan to my En-Suit, and ever since that night, my Bedroom and kitchen lights are switching on and off at irregular intervals. But the fan is getting power from a circuit breaker for lights, and my Bedroom and kitchen lights is getting power from a different breaker. However, my bedroom downlighters are on a dimmer. the kitchen downlighters are also on dim, but it's using the SAME dimmer for my kitchen downlighters. Which means, the wiring from my bedroom downlighter is relayed to my kitchen switch.

But the lights has always been working before. My electrician is now also confused why the lights are going at sunset almost at the same time and also in the morning almost about the same time. And those lights have never been on a timer  (although it sounds like it's on a timer).


texts: How do I replace a bathtub drain trip lever?

texts:
The trip lever for the drain in my bath tub is very old (I'm guessing 30+ years) and has begun corroding and rusting. It's definitely time to replace it. I plan to replace the entire trip lever along with the trim plate, linkage, and drain plug.

Any tips for replacing it with a new one? What should I look for when buying the replacement parts? Are they all standard or do I need to be sure to look for a particular size to fit the existing tub? Any gotchas I should be aware of while removing the old one or installing the new one?


texts: one of my eight recessed lights (HALO H71CT) is not working. What are the chances that it is the thermocoupler? The light doesn't come on and go off it just doesn't come on....thanks for any help you can give me.


texts: i'm having trouble with battery not charging

texts:
I think I have a battery going bad. Charged over nite and light read charged.
but in the first 15 mins  it died on me

how long does it take to charge a hitachi battery 18v


texts: Why would one breaker trip more than another under the same load?

texts:
I have three circuits in my shop, each dedicated to powering 2 duplex 110V receptacles. The circuits originate from a 100A subpanel inside the shop.

Two of the circuits are 15A, and one is 20A. Everything is wired with 12/2 MC cable with ground, and metal boxes. Each circuit is about the same length. Each circuit has a GFCI receptacle first, with a regular duplex receptacle downstream. the 15A circuits have 15A rated receptacles, the 20A circuit has 20A rated receptacles.

Funny thing is - the 20A circuit will sometimes trip using tools that might draw only 8 or 9 amps max, while I hardly ever trip the 15A circuits with the same tools, or even when using a tool that will draw 15A max (briefly, like a table saw).

What could cause this? I have a multimeter - Can it help me infer something here?


texts: When we measure a room and say it's 4x4 this is to say it's 4' in length and 4' in width, right? What if the room isn't conventional and is say a polygon how is it then measured? The x between dimension sizes of rooms is saying multiplication right? like if you wanted to find the area or total measurement of all sides it would be 4x4=16' or would that be called the square footage? is this correct? would it be the same for other measurements like a piece of wood that is 1.6"x3" if it was a rectangle would that just be multiplying the two together to get the area? because it's giving the length and width?


texts: Is it possible to split electricity consumption of an appliance between apartments?

texts: Is it possible to split electricity consumption of a heavy-duty-home-appliance - like a washing machine, for ex. - between two distinct apartments (splitting usage costs)? Something like this...


texts: Samsung model UN22F5000AF will not pik up any channels when I scan with antenna only... Do not have cable

texts: My 22" Samsung has an antenna hooked to it,  as my room has no cable outlet. However,  when I run Auto Scan,  it will not pick up a single channel. I was been looking online for an answer for hours and at this point am very frustrated. I did not have this problem in my previous apartment. I need help please!! Thank you


texts:
We have a washing machine that is kept outside, and we forgot to cover it so it got rained on and when we started it we heard a pop and smoke came out, and the circuit breaker went off. And now the clothes are trapped inside! :)

I don't care to pay any money to fix the machine right now, as I bought it second-hand for less than the cost of hiring a technician. My only concern is to get our clothes out now.

How do I open this washing machine door (hopefully in the least destructive way?)
I opened up the top, and tried jiggling the lock from both sides.

The machine model is Spectra WM2605 (made in italy), but the manual cannot be found online anywhere.


texts: Can you attach a post base to a brick patio?

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Can you attach a lumber post base to a brick patio, just as like as to a concrete one?

http://img.ehowcdn.com/default/ehow/images/a06/rt/qv/build-above-grade-patio-800x800.jpg

Is an additional concrete footer needed?


texts: Use C-clamps in place of mounting clamps for truck cap/topper?

texts:
One friend that says c-clamps are the same thing. Another friend thinks I should drill holes for bolts (where I'd fasten them with wing nuts).
Are c-clamps good enough to secure a small truck's cap/topper?


texts:
I currently have the Watts Recirculating system, pump Model 500803, on my water heater with the bypass sensors located under two areas in the house. We have enjoyed it. The con on this is that the cold water now takes too much time to make it to the spigot due to the lag time for the sensor to stop the reverse flow. We are doing a remodel and I am now running a dedicated line back to the water heater from the the farthest spigot and will remove the under sink bypass sensors making it a closed system now. I was told to purchase a new pump, Grundfos Type UP15-10B5, for the return line to be mounted on the water heater cleanout spout as per instructions. Rather than spend the money on a new Groudouf pump, could I just leave the Watts pump on top of the water heater? Or move the Watts down to the spigot area. Both pumps look familiar and have same flow direction.
No photo description available.


texts: Sealing space between counter and stainless stove

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What's the best material to use to seal the gap between my counters and the stove?
It's a pretty tight fit but we don't want any crumbs and food bits to get in there.

If we use caulk will it stick to stainless?
Will it leave a mark if we decide to remove the caulk?


texts: What could cause my radiators to go cold when the hot water is turned on?

texts: When only heating is selected on my program timer the radiators all work fine and are hot. But when both heating and hot water are on the water gets hot but all the radiators go cold. When the hot water is up to temperature on the tank thermostat the radiators still don't get hot until I turn the heating off then the hot water off then on and off again. Then turn the heating on again and it works OK. I have a 3 position zone valve and this makes a banging noise when the water is first turned on. Could it be the valve that is faulty because I have had to replace it twice now in the past 3 years. The current one is about 13 months old. Or could it be the pump that's the problem?


texts: Replacing two-plug outlet with one plug + one guidelight

texts: I am replacing a two receptacle outlet in a hallway with a newer Leviton outlet-guidelight combination. I noticed that the outlet box has two wires coming in, both with one hot/one neutral. The new device I'm installing only takes one wire. As it is now in the picture below, I do not get current from the receptacle when the breaker is switched on. This is true for the other outlets on the circuit. Is it possible to wire the device so that it only uses the one wire?


texts: How do I install an in-wall tank (wall-hung toilet) with the stack in the way?

texts:
Every toilet I've ever worked with (not many, I admit) has a stack in the wall directly behind it, including mine. I'm re-doing my bathroom and I'd like to install a wall-hung toilet. I have 2x4 construction, and Toto makes an in-wall tank designed to fit between 2x4s. Great. However, the diagram they give indicates my stack would by right in the way of the tank, and their document doesn't contain the terms "venting" or "stack" anywhere. Here is their installation guide (PDF)

What do I need to do to make this work?


texts:
I have cut out a word made of 1/2" poplar and would like to hang it in the wall. I originally thought of using my (non plunge) router with a keyhole bit to cut two keyholes, but I'm afraid that the wood would be too thin. Is there any way to do this nice other than picture hangers?

Edit:
I don't want to glue it to the wall because that would cause too much damage to the wall. My current hair brain idea is to drill a hole with a forstner bit and then maybe use a t router bit to cut a slot for the keyhole


texts:
My house has an old pebble path that runs around about half of it.  I am looking for the best way to extend the path in the same style.

The existing pebble path is made from packed dirt (which has a lot of clay where I live), that slopes gently away from the house.  This seems to be effective for carrying heavy rain from around the house without ever becoming muddy/waterlogged, even after a week of rain.  Weeds occasionally grow through, but are easily dealt with using glyphosate.  The path is edged with bricks.  The house is in a temperate climate (Sydney, so no freezing) and dates from about 1890.  The house exhibits a lot of cracking due to movement in the clay soil so I want to ensure the path drains quickly.

Some of the less public areas used to have an asphalt covering, but most of this was recently destroyed when I had some sewer pipes replaced.  The asphalt is not attractive and so I want to extend the pebble path to match.

I have had a look on the interweb for suggestions, but none suggest packed dirt as a base. Some suggest coarse aggregate (blue metal) as a base, but I think this will just hold water that runs off the house and is trapped behind the edge of the adjoining lawn.  I also like that when pebbles are pushed away from the existing path that the dirt underneath is neither uncomfortable, no looks like a building site.

So I am planning to lay the path like this:

Break up the exiting lumpy surface.  (Rotary hoe looks a bit too big for
this, any other suggestions?)
Lay string to ensure the new path will fall away from the house and be flat.
Flatten and compact the dirt using a motorised compactor.
Install bricks as edging.
Lay pebbles about 10mm thick.

Will it work?  Why?  Why not?


texts: How can I winterize a set of Polaris heating units?

texts: We have 11 cabins that have Polaris water heaters with a copper tubing system that uses a blower to create the heat for the cabins.  We live in an extreme winter climate and sometimes the water heaters can be finicky. Currently we keep the heat on all winter and monitor the temps in the cabins.  However, we are going to be gone for a few weeks next winter with no one to monitor.  What is the best solution?  Is there a way to winterize the units.  I know some have told us to empty the water heater.  However with as finicky as they are we are wondering if this is safe?  Or will the components freeze and we have another problem? Suggestions?


texts: How to supply 12 volt DC to all the windows in a new house build

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We are looking to provide 12v DC power to all the window headers in a new construction home for later use to power 12v DC blind motors. As all the walls are open for now we are just going to have wire running back to the central place in the mechanical room.
So I was wondering what the source of this power will be - some sort of transformer? Takes 120v AC and converts to 12v DC. But does something that will support 30+ outlets exist? They won't all be running at the sametime (in theory).
Also do we need a breaker box for DC. If there is an example article or something online that would be great too!
Cheers


texts: When I turn the light on/off on one circuit, it makes the light "blink" off/on on another circuit

texts:
I apologize for the long post, but I wanted to provide as much info as possible.

Recently I started a DIY home electrical project to replace a lot of light fixtures, the light switches, and the sockets in my house.  I changed out all the light fixtures and everything worked as it did before.  I changed out the light switches/dimmers and everything worked as it did before.  I started to change out the sockets and I have hit an issue.  Before I call an electrician I am looking for some troubleshooting advice.

I am working on a circuit (#18) that controls the load on 2 upstairs bedrooms and an upstairs hallway. In the upstairs hallway there are 2 sockets. Also there are 2 light fixtures controlled in a 4-way configuration; two light switches in the upstairs hallway and 1 light switch in the downstairs by the bottom of the stairway.

When I turn the 4-way light off/on from any of the switches it makes some lights on a different circuit (#2) "blink" as it they turn off and then immediately back on.  They only blink when I turn the switch off/on from any of the 3 switches in the 4-way. They don't dim or flicker or blink randomly(that I have been able to observe).

Circuit #2 is a load of light fixtures that span 3 different rooms (entryway[2 fixtures]/dinning[1 fixture]/kitchen[2 fixtures]).  The light fixtures that are "turned on" on circuit #2 and are closest to the bottom stairway switch on circuit #18 in the 4-way configuration will blink.  I.E.: if the 2 entry way fixtures (circuit #2) are on, they will blink (nothing else); if the 2 entry way fixtures are off, and the dinning room (next in line on the load on circuit #2) is on, that fixture will blink.  If the entryway and dinning room are off, and the kitchen fixtures (next in line on the load on circuit #2)are on, that fixture will blink.

These are all LED lights on circuit #2, and Lutron MACL-153M-WH Maestro 150-Watt Multi-Location CFL/LED Digital Dimmer or Lutron MA-R-WH Maestro Companion 120V 8.3A Designer Digital Dimmer Switch.  These all worked fine for some time.  They are using approved LEDs.

There are CFLs on the 4-way on circuit #18, and  Lutron MACL-153M-WH Maestro 150-Watt Multi-Location CFL/LED Digital Dimmer or Lutron MA-R-WH Maestro Companion 120V 8.3A Designer Digital Dimmer Switch.  These all worked fine for some time.  They are using approved CFLs.

The light fixtures, LED bulbs, and dimmers work fine on circuit #2 unless the light on circuit #18 is turned off/on.  Everything on circuit #18 works fine (no observable issues).

This problem only started after I replaced a wall socket on circuit #18 that feeds the 4-way (2 light fixtures/3 Lutron dimmers).

From my research so far I am in fear that somewhere along the load of  circuit #18, there is arcing to circuit #2.  The "blink" does not happen repetitively or randomly though.

I am also worried that the "blink" in the light is my breaker box or digital dimmers warning me of something mis-wired.  There are no issues on the individual circuits (that I can observe) as both circuits (#2 and #18) operate fine independently of each other with only the 3 switches in the 4-way configuration causing issues when turned off/on.

Is it possible for a circuit to impact another circuit without arcing somewhere (in the wall or at the breaker box)?

Any help or advice is appreciated.  Has anyone else had issues like this with LEDs/CFLs and digital dimmers?

Thanks.
Brad


texts:
by accident I scratch ceramic tile in my bathroom while cleaning. Do you have any idea how can I remove/(paint?)/fix this?

I tried a lot of home products (at start I though its just a tech pencil), but without result.

Wall specification: https://www.paradyz.com/en/catalog/elia/elia-bianco-sciana-struktura-rekt

Scratch:

EDIT: Thanks for all the answers, I'm going to try them soon. I will let you know about the results.


texts: What type of bumper/pad to use with glass table top protector on top of veneer surface?

texts: My nightstand has a veneer surface that seems to discolor when in contact with any significant moisture. To mitigate this and have the nightstand be more functional, I've decided to put a glass sheet on top and need to purchase bumpers/pads to keep the glass from sliding off. I've heard that some material, like rubber and silicone, can tend to stick to surfaces and I'm worried about getting any bumpers/pads that could damage the veneer surface. What are safe materials to use as a bumper/pad for glass that won't affect veneer? Is there a different approach I could use to keep the glass from sliding off the nightstand?


texts: Installing ceiling fan light kit if switch housing cover plate has no hole

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I have had a ceiling fan for some time in my front room, but no light installed.  To combat darkness during the winter, I am ready to try to make it happen by buying a ceiling fan light kit.

The tutorials I have watched thus far involve removing the switch housing cover plate and then at some point feeding the wires through the hole in that cover plate, however the plate that was on mine has no such hole.  It has the notch on the side to line up with the switch for the fan and it has three screws about 120 degrees apart from each other on the sides, but other than that it is solid.

So before buying a light kit, I want to make sure that I can actually complete the installation.  Is this lack of hole going to be a problem, and if so, what can I do to resolve the situation?

EDIT

Well, the fan was installed already when I moved in, so I did not do it myself.  It is a Hampton Bay and by using the mirror and a flashlight and reading upside down writing on the top of the fan, I think the model is CD-5201.  It has some sort of moon pattern on each of the 5 blades, but I am sure that does not help.

But here are the requested pictures:

EDIT

Fast-forwarding in time, I used flashlight and smartphone to capture the information.

UPC = 759590966714
Vendor = 23827 - Aloha Breeze after talking with Hampton Bay customer service
Date = 9711

I am guessing that it 1997?  Oh, brother!  The fan works perfectly though.


texts:
Is it safe to drill and tap an i-beam in order to mount wood to it, to then mount a TV to the wood? TV and mount will weigh about 100lbs combined. I plan on using 1/4 bolts, and the two pieces of would will be glued together. The picture below roughly represents what it is I want to do.

The i-beam is vertical. This is a warehouse, the i-beam is about 22' by 3", it's holding up the roof of said warehouse.


texts: What type of wire for sub panel to detached shed in Colorado?

texts:
I am getting so many different answers on what to run to my detached shed. I am going to pull permits soon and have it inspected before hand - but im trying to blend in the codes for what it is allowed in Colorado

So, I am building a 200 sqft shed that will power up around 5 or 6 outlets along with 3 security cameras, power tools such as table saws, circular saws, battery chargers etc.

ive been told to use a double pole 30 amp with UF 10-3 wire to feed my sub-panel (which will be 70 amp sub panel) The sub panel is going to have 2 x 15 amp circuits and 1 x 20 amp circuit for my tools.

I also been told to run a 70 amp with number URD #4 cable (4 wire) to feed the 70 amp sub panel.  I am not sure if thats overkill, or if that will give out TOO much power to my 70amp sub panel and if that will be too dangerous?

So, my shed will be about 70 feet from my main panel, so I will have to dig a trench. I was also told not to use a conduit (pvc pipe) for the UF rated wire - instead it will be bare burial. is that code?


texts: In the UK, what is the classification scheme for outbuildings such as sheds and garages?

texts:
As per title, I am building a large wooden shed with large enough doors to be ABLE to get a car in IF required, but not for permanent use a garage.

Under UK planning laws there are slightly differing conditions for these.

So, what would it be considered as? a shed or a garage?!


texts: Can leaving AC on while cooking cause odors to spread around house?

texts:
From what I understand the central AC sucks in air, the hot air is expelled via the outdoor fan, the cool air is pushed back into the home via the small vents.

So, after it sucks in air (which includes the odor from cooking in the kitchen) is it possible that Some of that odor will reappear in other parts of the house via the small vents?

And do you suggest I NOT have the AC on while cooking, to eliminate the odor from appearing in all the rooms?


texts:
I have a cement slab that had a plastic film and then pergo flooring. Removing this floor.
Right now, I just want to seal cement and epoxy paint once I get all pergo removed.
First, since I am only sealing do I need to degrease and etch the cement?
Second, can I epoxy paint over the sealed cement?


texts: Replacing A Ceramic Hob With An Induction Hob

texts:
If I were to replace my ceramic hob in my kitchen at some point in the future with an induction hob, would any rewiring be needed or from an electrical point of view, would it be a straight swap?

(UK, currently both the hob and oven are on the cooker circuit)


texts: What are the black spots on my basement ceiling?

texts: My house is one year new construction. I didn't use the dehumidifier at the basement until one month ago I realized the basement was damp and there were some mold on the wood frame on the basement ceiling(not serious, already cleaned). I also noticed there are many black spots on the plywood on my basement ceiling and the plywood behind the electrical panel, they don't look like mold to me, but I am not sure. Can someone please tell me what are these black spots? I am concerned they might be mold.


texts:
My downstairs toilet is the last fixture hooked up to the house drain line before it makes its way to the public sewer system.  This line between the toilet and the public sewer gets clogged periodically.

Unclogging this usually means calling a plumber who will remove the toilet and put a large head snake in and snake it from the point where the toilet connects  to the street.  Being Bergen County, NJ, that runs $300+ depending on the time of day.

What's the best equivalent solution that I can do as a homeowner?   I'd rather not remove the toilet.   Can I get a 3" snake and run it out to the street?  Would that damage the toilet?

What's the best method to clear the drain in this situation?  If it's a snake, then what kind of snake?  It is about a 30-40 foot run to get from the toilet out to the street.


texts: How do I correctly install metal roofing over a workshop with a vaulted/exposed ceiling

texts:
I'm in the process of replacing a badly leaking roof over an area that will become my new workshop space once it is dry.

The existing structure is attached to the side of my house, is 14ft wide, and 28ft long, and has a roof that slopes from about 10-11ft where it joins to the house, down to about 8-9ft at the eaves. I measured this as a 2/12 pitch. The construction is 2x6 rafters, 16" OC, with 2x6 blocking halfway down. The sheathing seam lands on the blocking. Prior to my work, the roof was covered with 3 layers of poorly installed asphalt composition shingles, laid over 3/8" plywood sheathing. I have torn everything off down to the plywood, much of which was badly rotted (I stepped through it accidentally to discover this).

For the replacement roof, I am using Fabral Shelterguard 5-rib corrugated metal roofing, and will have an end-lap halfway down the roof because I could not locally purchase 16ft continuous panels of the metal roofing. I also purchased two rolls (4sq total) of 30# ASTM D226 felt. I had intended on putting the felt down under the roofing but I have read tons and tons of conflicting information about whether felt is even necessary under metal roofing. Many people seem concerned that without proper preparation, the metal can sweat on the underside if warm moist air is allowed to contact cold metal panels.

All of this information seems to be specific to house roofs where the underside of the roof is only exposed to a ventilated attic space or similar. I'm not even sure whether I'm going to insulate the ceiling of this workshop. In any case, the ceiling is not going to be isolated from the "living space". I need to know if, and how that changes how I need to install the metal roofing.

Should I tear off all the sheathing, and install the roofing over 1x4 or 2x4 purlins running across the rafters?

If it's okay to put the metal roofing over the existing plywood sheathing, do I need the felt paper under it or can I omit that?

Should I use the foam plug material supplied by the roof manufacturer to seal the eaves underneath the metal roofing (preventing air movement between the sheathing and the metal)?


texts: Sill plate on an 8 inch wide cinder block wall

texts: So I have a cinder block block that is about 4 feet high.in which I will be putting a framed 8' wall. I will be using a 2x6 sill plate PT. How much space do I leave for the sheathing. It's an exterior wall. Also once the sill.plate is down, can I put.my studs on it or so I need an additional plate.


texts: Small bugs coming inside from closed windows at night; spray solutions?

texts:
Every summer at night when we have curtains up and turn on the indoor lights, a large number of small insects (moths, small beetles, spiders, other slim thin-legged insects, etc.) will manage to find their way inside. This happens despite that the (double-hung) windows are closed. The situation is much better if the lights are out or if the curtains fully cover the windows. On the other hand, even if we block the lighting, the insects can still come in if the windows are open. As a result, our summer becomes pretty miserable, choosing between temperature and bugs..
This happens in every room of our two-story house and I certainly checked that the window screens are intact or patched up. I suspect that there might still be small gaps between the screen frames and the window sills and the lighting or human smell may be what is attracting them.
Since physical barrier isn't working, is there some spray solutions that are safe end effective to use?

We live in Greenfield, MA, if that matters. And it does not look like this post provides solutions for our problem.
UPDATE I have used a thermal camera to find cracks. The only cooler spots (in winter) are where walls meet the ceiling but there are no visible opening. I also suspected that the bugs come in through wall cavities (e.g., outlets) where vapor barrier is not continuous, but it is curious why closing the windows and curtains would help if this was the case.


texts: What is the proper anatomy of a mulched sitting area in which nothing will grow?

texts:
I have done mulched gardens before and am familiar with the steps involved in that.  Now I have a slightly different project.  I want to dig out an area of my yard that will have a bench and two chairs, along with maybe a fireplace, all on top of a bed of mulch.  As nothing needs to grow here, it presents a different situation to a mulched garden, and better options for dealing with weeds.

My current plan involves this set of layers, after digging down 2"-3" below soil level:

TOP
2"-3" of rubber mulch (hiding pavers)
Pavers (as a base for the bench/chairs/flower pots to sit on) and block edging (for a comfortable delineation between sitting area and yard)
1" of sand
Commercial strength weed barrier
Any electrical lines needed
BOTTOM

The purpose of the sand is both to help level the pavers and edging, and to weigh down the weed barrier in case something tries to grow and push it up.  The pavers are there to help level the chairs and bench and push them up so they're nearly level with the top of the mulch layer.

Is this the appropriate approach to this project, or is there a better/easier/cheaper way to construct a long-lasting and maintenance free mulched sitting area.


texts:
The place where I do my diy stuff keeps getting wet because whenever it rains the water gets inside through the roof, the roof looks generally like this stock photo of a tile roof (this is not my roof):

I have put this isolating sheets:
(source: warmup.pt)

On the inside and siliconed them to the concrete (on some of them applied isolating foam spray to the borders) but water still gets in through one of the borders (siliconed), what do I do to stop this, already got an angle grinder broken because of the rain (left it on the table and it got soaked)?

Photos of the roof setup:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/89he486zegulxit/15731288_1410928465608812_774723163_n.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hn6x1j4uaoexp7g/14970833_1352211198147206_137584259_o.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9rdndqnwdtn2sv6/14513567_1313594228675570_596033170_o.jpg?dl=0


texts: How to calculate if a 15 amp circuit will be adequate for your needs?

texts:
I have a 15 amp circuit and I would like to have the following things plugged into it:

definitely will have:

tv
4 lights
microwave
mini-fridge

could possibly have:

oil heater
electric cooktop (though this could be gas if it was a deal breaker)

Is this too much for a 15 amp circuit?  How do I go about calculating what a 15 amp (or any size) circuit can handle?


texts: How do I flatten my uneven concrete floor?

texts:
We have an old Victorian house with a concrete floor throughout the ground floor.

The ground floor is partitioned in two by a dividing wall and french doors. From the front of the house to the doors, the floor slopes up around 7cm, but is not too uneven across the width, so we're going to put down a thick underlay and carpet.

From the french doors it slopes up a further 3cm to the middle of that area, and then is flat for the rest. Unfortunately, within that 3cm incline, it also has dips, undulations and is generally not flat across the width. Since this is the kitchen area, we don't want to put down carpet, so are looking for ways to flatten out this area of floor. We'd prefer vinyl or possibly tiles, so flatness is relatively important.

We've considered liquid latex but are worried that it will just run down towards the french doors and keep going, which we don't really want. Is there any product out there designed to smooth out undulations etc but without running so much, so we can make the slope more even?

The concrete floor is also painted, so we wondered if we'd need to strip that off or apply a primer?

Thanks for any advice you can give, folks!

Jamie


texts: Cracked rafter fix and loose truss plates

texts:
I appear to have a crack on my drywall where it meets the ceiling in my bedroom.

The crack is spreading a bit. I went in the attic and noticed that this rafter beam is cracked and might be causing the ceiling in my room to lift? I'm not 100% sure what's going on here.

But on my other side of the home I'm developing a crack running down my ceiling. On this side of my home I noticed a few truss mending plates have come undone against the rafter.

I'm in Sacramento so we suffered a 5 year severe drought only to be completely drenched this past winter. Now that we're in the middle of Summer were experiencing a ton of heat and our clay soil is cracking all over our yard.

Wondering what's the best approach to repairs at this stage. Do I have foundation issues? Or is it just some wood expansion and shrinkage that's pulling my drywall apart. Do I patch the drywall or call a foundation expert?

This time of year last year I do have some door frames that go out of square leading to minor adjustments and it's been this way for the last two years I have lived here.

More pictures

Edit:
These are extra pictures, as you can see in the picture 1, ignore the temporary patch job, but the wall and the ceiling have a split and it crossed that piece of drywall, behind the wire for the lamp I put up is a gap about 1/2" wide. You could literally push up on that ceiling piece with your hand and it'll go up.

Picture 2. On the opposite side of the house, in the living room is that straight line crack that is crawling down from the ceiling.

The final picture is just a different part of the house where there are signs of bad drywall patch jobs that were done before we moved in that are starting to show more, like drywall tape that seems to be cracking.


texts:
On the Energy Star website, I see the claim:

  ENERGY STAR Qualified LED Lighting:

  Reduces energy costs — uses at least 75% less energy than incandescent lighting, saving on operating expenses.

After a cursory search for lightbulbs on Home Depot's website, I see this Energy Star lightbulb, which is a "100W" bulb using 15.5W and produces 1700 lumens (106 lm/w), and I see this non-Energy Star lightbulb, which is a "100W" bulb that uses 14W and produces 1521 lumens (108 lm/w). So at the very least, it doesn't seem like Energy Star lighting would reduce energy costs compared to non-Energy Star lighting.

Are there any actual energy efficiency or environmental friendliness benefits to using Energy Star lightbulbs, or is it just a marketing campaign? (Ignore convenience, warranty, durability, etc.)


texts:
I recently bought a wall thermostat I broke the plastic front on the box to remove
The  thermostat as I tried to pull it out    of the box the dial came off in my hand and I do not know where it should be positioned for the right position for the dial to be put at the right degree on the spline of he thermostat can any one help
Thanks terry.


texts: Are there left hand cartridges for Delta two handle faucets?

texts: Is there a left hand faucet cartridge for delta-delex two handle faucets? Or are all cartridges interchangeable?


texts: JQX-115F relay switch triggers when moved. Is it faulty?

texts:
My boiler is controlled by a programmer unit to turn on and off at certain times. There is a receiver unit between the programmer and the boiler, and I believe this receiver unit is at fault.

The problem I see is that sometimes the boiler comes on at the correct time, but shortly after (sometimes seconds or minutes), switches back off again.

I have found that I can make the JQX-115F relay component switch on and off simply by moving the receiver unit from side to side. My understanding is that the relay should be switched by application of 24V DC.

So my question is, if the relay is switching as I move it, does that imply the relay is at fault, or could it be an input to the relay which is at fault?

(I ask because this receiver unit (Nobo RSX 512) has been discontinued, so I'm not sure I can get this repaired without changing the entire setup, or understanding and replacing the faulty component.)


texts: Finishing basement... level floors with SLC or install stud wall first?

texts: Basement floor isn't too far off... wondering if I should get the stud wall done first or level the floor first....


texts:
My home is supplied water from a well, that gets stored in a roof-top tank. The problem is that during these summer days (45°C), the stored water heats up and gets scalding hot. Its impossible to shower or to even to wash my hands!

I need a solution to this. Is there something like a water chiller which can cool the water as it flows into the house. I know there are whole house tankless water heaters, I basically need something that does the reverse job of that.


texts: How to create or find a PVC coupling for a 2" diameter PVC to a 2" 1/8 diameter PVC?

texts:
I am a pool service tech working on a very old pool for a client.  I am fixing what is called a discharge leak currently.  I installed a new fitting onto the pump which uses the standard 2" PVC schedule 40 pipe.  What I need is something like the following.

Pump Fitting —> 2” PVC (requires 2” 3/4 diameter reducer on this side) —> (reducer) —> 2” 1/8” PVC (requires 2” 1/2 on this side) -> Rest of her System

Essentially I need a reducer that has a diameter of 2 1/2 inch on one side and 2 3/8 inch on the other.

Some things I noticed:

Fittings require 3/8" difference increase from diameter of the pipe to fit it for snug fits.  I found this by studying a 2" fitting diameter and that is the difference from a 2" pvc pipe in diameter.

Her System

Her plumbing system uses 2" 1/8" diameter piping for some reason which is making it very difficult to connect the pipes from her current system to the new fitting for the pump which uses 2" diameter piping to fit nicely.

The Question

How do I do this? Where can I buy this type of fitting or how can I make it manually?

Possible Solutions

I did a little research and I have an idea but I don't know if this will work.

Idea #1: There is a technique where you can heat the PVC pipe to soften it.  I noticed the diameter of the 2" PVC pipe (for the thin pipe part it's self) is exactly 1/8", this means if I heat the 2" PVC correctly I can warp it possibly to be 2 1/4" diameter since the width is 1/8" equally for the pipe it will expand the pipe 1/8" equally all around making a new size of 2 1/4" which will fit the 2 1/8" pipe maybe? (Assuming I do this procedure first with the 2" pipe and then with the 2 and 1/8" pipe to add another 1/4" around warping it twice)

I think it will fit the 2 1/8" diameter piping because 3/8" extra is required for snug fits from my tests.  and 1/8" or + 3/8 = 4/8 or 2 1/2" diameter. I got the idea from this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKkMM_b_Mc8 , but not sure if this will work?

Any ideas on this?

Idea #2: They do sell 2 1/2" reducers to 2", however, 2" is not 2 3/8 inch required to fit standard 2" diameter pipes, but I could use the heating technique from above to fit a 2" pipe into it creating the 3/4" difference this way and fitting it in?


texts: How to tell if Nema outlets have been successfully brought up to code?

texts:
I moved into a new rental house ~3 weeks ago. The house was built in 1950, and the house's dryer hook-up has a Nema 10-30P outlet (3 prong, see picture). Also, The kitchen electric range (supplied by property company, not mine) has a Nema 10-50 plug and receptacle, but no separate ground (not pictured due to bad lighting, sorry). My 4-ish year old dryer has a Nema 14-30 plug, so does not fit the 10-30 outlet. There is a separate ground wire hanging off the un-insulated ground wire coming from the circuit breaker next to w/d hook-ups. It looks shady, with zip ties holding wires in place. Everything I've read online says that Nema 10 outlets are no longer considered up to code (NEC 250.140), and the exceptions where you can hook them up safely with a separate ground wire come with very specific stipulations. My question is, are these two outlets, the 10-30P dryer outlet and the 10-50 range outlet, up to code and safe as they are, or should the property company be responsible for updating them to bring them up to code?

I mostly just want to be able to hook my dryer up safely. I know there are separate 10-30 plugs/cords for dryers you can buy at Home Depot, but I don't want to go that route if the true issue is an electrical code violation causing a safety hazard. The Property company has drug their feet for over 2 weeks about getting a maintenance person out to check the connections (which in my mind indicates that they know it's not up to code they were just hoping I wouldn't know/notice). If they are up to code and my research was wrong, I'll happy just pick up the cheap Nema 10 plug for my dryer and be on my merry way, but if this is truly a code violation and a fire hazard, then I want to stand my ground and insist the property company update the outlets.

Any advice or guidance is appreciated!

Edit: I'm sorry for the orientation of the pictures, they were taken on my phone.


texts: Has anyone figured out a better method the locate a leak other than a Gas Pressure test gauge and Leak Detector Spray?


texts:
I am new to having a well and the pressure in our house is OK, but not incredible. The well sits about 100 ft. from the house. We have 2 20 Gallon pressure tanks next to the pump. The pressure switch is a 40/60. The pressure reads about 43 psi. I am curious if I can set the pressure higher or if I risk damaging the system. The majority of the plumbing in the house is PEX.

Tank specs:

Pressure switch:


texts: How do electrical permits work in New Jersey?

texts:
I recently installed recessed lights in my 2nd floor condominium. Later, I was told by friend that I need permit to do that.
My questions are:

Can I take permit now and have inspector inspect my work or it is too late?
What should I do?


texts: How can I get my gas fire pit to have a larger flame or better disperse heat?

texts:
I currently have a gas (run from our house gas line) fire pit in my backyard.  It is approximately 18" off the ground and the fire ring (relatively new) is 36" in diameter, filled with gravel at the bottom and lava rock on the top.  (We are not able to lower the pit).

During the fall, we are able to sit around it and feel quite warm.  However, in colder temperatures, we have noticed that the heat does not get dispersed horizontally very well, because the heat is obviously straight going up.  So, as one might expect, it gets a bit colder and people are less inclined to sit out in front.

Overall, we are hoping to get more heat to the people sitting around the fire.

Any suggestions on how we might get better heat?  Would any of these help?

Artificial Gas Logs?
Use a different type of rock?
Get a bigger flame somehow?  (Bigger pipe?)
Use a different fire ring?  Different size?
Any type of device we can use to circulate the heat?

Thanks very much!


texts: What can I use to determine the proper size of faucet aerator to buy to replace the existing ones in my american standard faucet?

texts:
My bathroom sinks have clogged up. After ruining the little "remove the aerator with a coin" plastic inserts, I bought this tool off amazon. It was able to get the aerator out, but the teeth don't fit correctly (they're smaller than the notches in the aerator), and the aerator that came with it doesn't fit back in the fixture (it's too long for the fixture)
Is there some reliable sizing chart I can use to determine the proper aerator for my faucet?


texts:
I live in an older house and have some outlets in our kitchen that don't make sense to me. We have one outlet that is tied to a dimmer switch on the opposite side of the room. I can detect that the outlet is hot using my voltage detector (when the dimmer switch is all the way on), but it pulses. I get about 6-7 beeps, then it skips one, beeps 6-7 more times, skips, continue. My GFCI tester shows an open hot. The outlet doesn't work.

I'm not very experienced with electrical work but this sounds highly unusual to me. Where should I start with fixing the issue?


texts: How can I remove residual adhesive that may contain asbestos from wood?

texts: Our house has two bedrooms in which the previous owners installed vinyl tile over wood flooring (how ironic is this: it's wood-grained pattern tile over beautiful, real wood).  We want to remove the vinyl tile, then refinish the floors.  The tile itself comes up without any effort at all, but there is residual adhesive still attached to the wood.  I'm concerned it may contain asbestos.  Assuming it does, what's the proper method for removing the residual adhesive from the wood before I refinish the floor?  The Residual Flooring Covering Institute's (RFCI) guide for removing residual adhesive from wood is to remove the wood - not my preferred option.


texts: Decent Brand Names for Beginner Carpentry

texts: I have done a few small projects but nothing too extravagant without a table saw.  I would like to get more into woodworking but the one tool I don't have right now it's a table saw.  All the rest of my tools are craftsman, but I have seen other brands like Genesis and Rockford in my price range too.  Is there a better between brands like these for starters or does it really mainly matter once you get into the higher priced equipment?


texts: How many wires can be connected to the C terminal at the furnace?

texts: I'd like install a new Wi-Fi thermostat. The old one didn't have a C-wire but luckily there is an unused wire on both sides (one coming out of the wall and one at the furnace not connected yet), so I am going to use this unused wire as the C-wire. My only concern is that the C terminal at the furnace is already occupied with other two wires (that have nothing to do with the thermostat, but are connected one to the humidifier and the other one not sure to what, probably the air purifier). The question is: can I add a third wire to the C board of the furnace and use it as C-wire for the wi-fi thermostat? See picture: yellow is the unused wire.


texts: I installed brand new Automatic washing machine taps, recut the washer seats & what I thought was impossible, happened... it still leaked. I cut the seats again with a new seat cutter.... still leaks. The seat does not appear to be an insert so I have no other ideas. Anyone have any thoughts?


texts: How to repair or at least hide cracks in wooden door panel?

texts:
I have a door with cracks running along the grain on one of the panels:

Its a solid wood door, not a composite material nor hollow. These go all the way through although they are not as obvious on the other side for some reason.
Since the door is a dark color these stand out, especially at certain angles of view.
Otherwise however the door is solid & strong, and I'd prefer not to replace it.
Unless there is some way to remove the panel (which I thought would require disassembling almost the whole door) I can't see how to glue it back in one piece?
I don't mind if some part of the repair requires refinishing, since that already seems to be necessary. However if there is a way to effectively hide the cracks in a permanent way that could be the best approach.


texts:
4 new LED spots, 3.2 watts each (sealed: cannot replace bulbs).  Lites and transformer labeled for 12VAC.  On a GFCI protected, photocell- and timer-controlled circuit (photocell turns lites on, timer turns them off after 6 hr).  Usually 3 lites (landscape), and sometimes add 4th lite for flag.  When 4 lites, timer is bypassed so lites stay on all night.  All lites are 4 to 25 feet from transformer and on 12 gauge wire.

Setup works fine with older, large transformer designed to handle much larger, halogen load.  For esthetics, I wanted to replace with small electronic transformer (12VAC, 10 watt min, 60 watt max) that would fit in standard electrical box on same circuit.  New setup works fine with 3 lites (even though 9.6 watts is slightly below transformer minimum), but with 4 lites (12.8 watts) starts flashing after about 15 seconds then goes out after about 30 seconds.  Switching back to 3 lites and it works fine again.  I did switch out the 4th lite for a 10 watt halogen.  Appeared to work fine initially, but later on in evening all lites were much dimmer.  Transformer supplier says it has been tested with their lites (including LED) with no problem, but had no answer for me.  I am not using their lites.  Any ideas?

Tyson asked about the photocell - it is a three wire photocell.  And a correction - the low voltage cable being used is apparently 18 gauge, not 12 gauge.

In answer to Harper, the 4 lites total only 12.8 watts and the transformer is rated for 10W minimum and 60W max , so I don't know how it could be overloaded.

As described previously, the system worked fine with 3 lites, closest of which was 12 ft away and two more were another 11 ft away (Y'd from the closest one).

I have done some more experimentation > The lite which (when switched on) caused the problem was only 4 ft from the transformer and switch.  Too close?  So I connected that particular lite instead to an end that was 23 ft away (as described in the previous paragraph), with a cable that was about 32 ft long, so total of 55 ft of cable with two lites between the transformer and the problem lite.  Then it worked, without flashing. Makes me think that being too close to the transformer caused the problem, but that's where that lite is, attached to the same wall as the electrical box that holds the transformer - not out in the yard like the other 3 lites.  Then I connected the 32 ft cable to the transformer leads (along with cable to the yard lites that were already connected). All 4 lites work without starting to flash.  So the transformer has a nominal 12.8 watts of load, but the lite that is 4 ft from the transformer is now separated from it by 36 ft of cable.  I don't know if the length of cable increases the resistance or helps smooth out the transformer's "square" sine wave (apparently an issue with LEDs and electronic transformers).  So instead of the extra 32 ft of cable (which I don't want on the front patio), is there something I can use to equivalently electrically isolate the offending lite from transformer?


texts: How to get cold air from one room to another

texts:
This is the very rough outline of my flat:

    +----------+
    |Bedroom   |
    W           \
+---+----------+
|Ba |Living
|lc |room
|on |
|y  |
+---+----------+

There is no window on the living room just the sliding balcony door. The only window is in the bedroom (the kitchen connecting to the living room and the bathroom are totally windowless). I could buy a portable AC unit to make at least the bedroom bearable but how could I get the air from the bedroom into the living room? Cutting a duct sized hole in the drywall is possible of course but gosh it'd be very ugly.

If I got a long enough duct extension (I found a twenty feet one), would it work
with a portable AC? I could put a 14000 BTU unit in the tiny entranceway next to the bedroom door so it would cool both rooms.

I have thought of putting a water cooled air conditioner in the kitchen but a) I have no idea where to buy one in Vancouver, BC b) in light of Montreal just banning them what's the chance they are legal.


texts: How can I get rid of weather marks on Trex decking?

texts: We got some Trex decking in great shape, except it was originally installed upside down! So, there are marks on the 'wood grain' side where the board contacted the joists. Is there a way to get rid of those marks?


texts: I'm looking to replace my roof and the company gave me a few color options. I can't tell right now what color my roof is or what color mostly matches. Is there a definite way to figure this out myself? If anyone of your are pros, can you tell by a photo?


texts: Can I pig tail off a #14 wire, to short when I pull out dishwasher, and tie in a #12 wire to make line longer.?


texts: Can I make a switched outlet which is connected to light hot all the time without running new wire?

texts:
I have power coming into the switch box connected to light switch & fan switch via pigtail - (one white, one black & one ground each) - the neutrals (white are wire nutted together - the grounds are connected to the box) the fan switch goes directly to the fan but the light switch leads to the outlet

In the outlet box the two whites are connected & a pigtail connects them to the outlet.  Same with the black (black is power) from there they go to the light fixture.

Can I connect them so the outlet has power all the time & the switch controls the light (perhaps using the neutral (white) to feed the switch?)

The outlet was an old razor only outlet originally & it's not possible to run new wire as the house is completely finished

Or am I stuck with only having a switched outlet?  Advice would be greatly appreciated!


texts: Removing drip pan on a Frigidaire FFTR1821QS

texts:
My fridge is giving off a foul odour. Looks like the drip pan is growing mold in it. Looking for advice on how to remove the drip pan so I can clean it. It doesn’t appear to simply slide out from the bottom front of the fridge. It looks like it might come out from the bottom of the fridge but I would have to tip the fridge to attempt removing it this way.

Things I’m wondering are whether there is a better way to remove the pan for this make/model without tipping the fridge, and if I have to tip the fridge is there a specific side this make/model should be tipped on?

I also read that if you need to tip a fridge you should let it stand upright for at least as long as it was on its side before plugging it back in.

Any suggestions would be great! I’ve got a baby in the house and would like to get rid of this issue ASAP.

Make/Model: Frigidaire FFTR1821QS


texts: Reattach quarter-round molding under front door

texts:
The quarter-round molding under my front door came off recently when I opened the door. The molding was attached to the doorsill with two different kinds of adhesive. Apparently the rubber weather strip under the door has been sweeping against the molding every time the door opens, and the adhesive finally gave out.

I've used a chisel to remove the large pieces of adhesive that were on both the molding and the doorsill, intending to reattach the molding, but I'm not sure how best to reattach it. Here are some ideas I've had:

Just glue the molding to the doorsill again. My main concern is that the molding will just come off again due to the ongoing force of the weather strip sweeping against it. (The weather strip seems to apply quite a lot of force along the entire length of the molding, I've found by trying to hold the molding in place with my hands while opening the door.) Or maybe it would be fine; it seems like the original installers maybe didn't do an awesome job, as I saw big drops of glue that looked like they had adhered to only one of the two facing surfaces. Advice on what kind of glue or adhesive to use would be helpful.
Try screwing or nailing the molding to the doorsill. Maybe screws or nails would have better tensile strength than glue? However, I'm not sure what the doorsill is made of. It has a wood grain texture on the surface that feels maybe sort of fake and I don't know whether there's real wood on the inside. I'm not sure I can productively screw into it. I'm also worried about splitting or weakening the molding, and about the difficulty of drilling precisely into a round surface.
Try to sand down or otherwise somehow reduce the height of the molding such that the weather strip on the door clears it, so that the molding is no longer under tension when the door opens. It looks like I would have to remove several millimeters. I'm not sure how to go about doing this. Is there a particular power tool I would use for this?
Buy new quarter-round molding of smaller radius. This molding is ¾″ tall, so maybe I should replace it with ⅝″ or ½″ molding. It seems like it might be hard to find molding that matches the floor as perfectly as the existing molding, though.

I have no prior experience with this sort of thing but am interested to learn and would appreciate any advice on what approach to take.

Update

Eventually I noticed that the molding was not actually ¾″×¾″ as I had thought, but rather ¾″×⅝″. When I flipped the molding around so that the ⅝″ side was vertical and the ¾″ was horizontal—orienting the molding so that it was effectively shorter, just ⅝″ tall—the door began clearing the molding easily and no longer exerted force on the molding with each opening. I simply attached the molding in this orientation with Liquid Nails Perfect Glue, which is the adhesive I had on hand, and it's had no problems since. Thanks to those who suggested solutions!


texts: How do you make flush cuts to a precise depth?

texts:
I'm renovating a small shed that was built with 2x4 wall studs on top of 2x6 bottom plates, for some reason. I'm realizing that this will create a problem once I get to the drywall and flooring stages, as I will need to either raise the subfloor, thicken the walls, or cut down the bottom plates to match the 2x4 wall thickness. Raising the floor or thickening the walls present substantial complications and additional costs, so I feel like cutting down the bottom plates to 2x4 thickness to match the existing wall makes the most sense. However this would require making flush cuts at the exact height of the bottom plates (1.5") to avoid damaging the subfloor and floor joists below.

How do I make flush cuts to a fairly precise 1.5" depth as required here?

A circular saw wouldn't do because I can't make a flush cut with it, and a sawzall with a flexible blade would damage the subfloor and joists below the top plate. Could an angle grinder work with some kind of flush cutting blade? Would one of those fancy Japanese pull-saws work?


texts: Do I need a permit to route ground wire through the walls to outlet?

texts:
I have an ungrounded 2-prong outlet I'd like to upgrade to a 3 prong with proper grounding.

I'm in GA if region matters. If I bought a spool of the correct gauge solid copper wire, either bare wire or with green insulation, could I upgrade an outlet myself to be grounded, without proper training or permits?

I understand this would be a lot of work (potentially dangerous if I'm not careful to open all circuit breakers), but I'm willing to accept that.

I'd likely just route the new ground wire along side the existing hot/neutral cable through the walls/attic all the way to the circuit breaker panel and attach to the existing ground-bar-terminal-strip.


texts: Can I use this piece (see pic) as a replacement?

texts:
Hi Guys,

I am on my last connection in my new mother board replacement for my Carrier furnace.  As I was trying to connect the wire in the top picture to the terminal it wouldn’t fit and the piggyback connecting the two wires nroke.  I don’t think these two wires are the same “gauge.” (Does that matter?)

My question is this:  can I buy this Amazon disconnect piece and connect each wire to it and then put it on the terminal?  Thanks in advance for any help!!


texts: I need to ground my switches by connecting the grounding wires from switches onto an electrical twist nut and pig tailing it it to the box.  Does Home Depot or other stores sell little pieces of copper to complete the pig tail or do I need to buy a big roll of copper?  Does the gauge of the copper matter?


texts: Is there a test to determine if a nail is galvanized or not?

texts:
I bought a nailer which came with some old nails that I'm going to use for a shed floor into pressure treated wood.

As you can see, they kinda look galvanized. They have that grey patina. But other than just looking at them, is there anything else I can do to try to determine if they're galvanized?


texts: Can I use a 50 amp range cord to connect a new dryer to a 50 amp receptacle?

texts:
I have read the original posts here, but just want to make sure I am correct.  Just bought a new dryer (been using mother nature for the past year)

I have 50 amp (double pole) breakers in my service panel, labeled "Range Basement" (must have been a range in the basement at one point).  It feeds roughly 25 feet of 6/3 wire, at the end is a 50 AMP 3 prong (all diagonal) range outlet.

I should probably change the breakers to 30 AMP (in case something goes wrong with the new drier), but here is where I am still a little confused.  Do I replace (if I keep the 50 AMP breakers) the outlet with a new 50 AMP, or can I just go down and buy a new 50 AMP range power cord for the drier?

Its obvious that the dryer will never pull enough amps to trip the 50 AMP beakers, and there will never be a Range in my basement again.


texts: What type of wood should I use for my wood fence?

texts:
We have about 100 feet to cover.
My neighbor and I are splitting the cost and we want the best value for the following characteristics:

Longevity/durability
Rot resistance
Termite resistance

We would consider a cheaper wood and add the cost of safely treating the wood to get those characteristics. (We have kids and pets and don't want chemicals fro the treatment to harm them)


texts: Can I install a switch on my overhead door opener's circuit for added security?

texts: Garage doors in our neighborhood are being opened by a master code. Can an electrician wire the light switch to shut off power to the garage, so the door doesn't open at night or when we are away? I have seen the locks you can install on the door itself.


texts:
Main panel has one 100 double breaker and two 60 amp double breakers.  There are extra slots for more breakers. Can I install a 30 am double breaker in on of the extra slots to wire up a 30 amp electric water heater with 10 gauge wire?
Thank you.


texts: Do backer board seams on tiled floor need to be taped?

texts: First time tiling a floor, I have hardibacker down throughout. Do I need to tape and mortar the seams?


texts: Are "Waterproofing Primer" and "Grout Sealer" the same?

texts:
As I'm getting close to end of bathroom renovation, hardware store recommends me to purchase 'grout sealer' to finish off new layered grout. When I test it out, I found out it is very similar to 'waterproofing primer' I used pre-laying tiles and I have plenty of that left over. If they are the same, then I might return the 'grout sealer' as it is unecessary.

The 2 specific product I'm looking at are:

Primer: Gripset Betta

Grout Sealer: Tecniseal Silicone Sealant also seen on page 39 of this PDF


texts: Why is my furnace blowing hot air outside through a PVC pipe?

texts: I turned on my furnace and went outside and noticed hot air blowing out a J-shaped PVC pipe. Is it a vent or error that needs to be plugged?


texts: How should I seal exposed nails on the roof of an addition?

texts:
We recently added a gable portico / overhang at our front door as part of a renovation. We used the same architectural shingles as the rest of the roof to make it seamless. However when the guys did join at the ridge of the new overhang they had to put 3 exposed nails.

I know that typically exposed nails are a big "no no", so I wanted to see if in your experience these nails are okay once they are covered with some roofing cement. We have similar nails on the main ridge end, but obviously at the end and not sort of in the middle. Note that the area beneath these nails will technically be on the outside.

Water leaks are obviously the one concern because no one will be looking at the roof from the angle where they are visible (except our neighbors!).

Are these worth redoing or left as they are with some roofing cement applied?


texts: The tiles/slabs I have outside my house are loose. So when I walk over them and step on the sides, the opposite side lifts up and its very awkward and dangerous. I would like to fix it properly on the ground. Please could any one tell whats the standard practice of fixing this type of issue. I have attached an image to show what i mean


texts: Gas Oven Keeps Tripping GFCI (Moisture?)

texts:
My gas oven frequently trips my GFCI outlet.

The GFCI outlet is upstream of the oven. Every outlet on that wall is on a shared circuit (I understand this is suboptimal, but I imagine there isn't a large load with just a gas oven and a Google Home plugged in).

The oven creates a lot of steam, which condenses on the backsplash. My theory is that the moisture drips down the backsplash and hits the outlet where the oven is plugged in.

When it trips, it takes 5-10 minutes until it can be reset. I believe this is because the outlet is drying out.

Interestingly, it can be reset a lot quicker if the convection fan is not used. For instance, if the GFCI trips and is reset 5 minutes later, I can turn on the oven again, but turning on the convection fan trips the GFCI. At other times, the convection fan is no problem.

Is my moisture theory correct? If so, what's the solution? Perhaps some sort of backer rod stuffed between the back of the oven and the backsplash to prevent drips from reaching the outlet?

Thanks!


texts: Is this a doorbell transformer? How to test if faulty?

texts:
My doorbell has stopped working.  I am trying to test each of the components using a multi-meter.

However, the wires seem to go through the ceiling etc, so I can't trace where they are going or what they are for.

I have identified a box which I think may be the transformer though:

Using the multi-meter, I measured voltage AC by connecting the red lead to the screw and the black lead to ground.  I got:

(2) having 250V AC
(3) having 18V AC
(4) having 10V AC
Between (1) and (2), I got a reaching of 250V AC
Between (3) and (4), I got a reading of 12.5V AC.

Is this enough to establish that (a) this is the transformer, and (b) it is working?


texts:
I'm looking to extend an existing water line. The only problem being that I need it to go under an existing retaining wall. I've included a quick side sketch just to get an idea of what I mean.

The red is what I need to add. The wall is really old and built from river rock and natural stones. As well, it's a little over 5 ft tall from the lower level to the upper. I'm not sure how deep the wall was buried when built, but I'm guessing I've got 6-7 ft (?) to dig on the back side to add the new line through.

Going around, through, or over is not an option here. Likewise, there is an outbuilding on the upper level mostly blocking access from getting any sort of tractor to the location (we do have access to a backhoe - just not sure it'd work here without possibly tearing up the wall)

My only guess was maybe attempting it with a post hole digger and a lot of shovel work, but I'm hoping for some better ideas as we only just a straight shot down. Fittings and such at the bottom can be completed after digging out under the wall.


texts: Why is my wall-ceiling corner damp when it rains?

texts:
Picture below is of an exterior wall where it connects to the ceiling (ceiling is acoustical texture; wall is flat). Water strip about 2.5 inches wide runs the whole length of the ceiling after it rains, right under the roof line and gutters.

Called the gutter guys; they said the overhang of the roof is directly over the gutter so the water should be flowing into the gutter (see drawing below). Checked the attic and didn't see any water. But somehow the water is getting out. Their next step is to put a piece of flat metal under the roof over the gutter to be sure the water can't get closer to the house.

I think it's got to be something with the gutter but can't figure it out. Am I missing something?


texts: What is the safest way to cut up an old kerosene storage tank?

texts:
Folks,
   I need to remove an old kerosene storage tank (for central heating) from my in-laws back garden. The tank is moulded plastic, and has a 1,000 litre capacity.

The access point it was originally brought through is gone.

The tank has been empty for 10 years or so, the easiest way to remove it is to cut it up, and the easiest way to cut it up would be with an Angle Grinder.

There is a small amount of liquid in the tank, which is (mostly) water, I'm assured the tank was emptied by professionals.

Obviously I'm worried that there may be residual fuel/fumes that the Angle Grinder could ignite.

Is there any way to quantify the ignition risk, or some anti-philostogen agent (i.e. fire retardant) I can add to the tank that will completely negate the ignition risk?


texts: Installing a water filter on a sink with copper supply lines

texts:
I recently moved and I have a water filter that I'm trying to install under my sink. I'm used to flex lines, but this place has a piece of copper pipe running straight down from the cold water knob to the shutoff valve.  There's a compression fitting on the shutoff valve, but I can't remove the pipe as it's screwed into the faucet above and I don't have a basin wrench. Additionally, I'm not sure if there's any soldering that goes on there so even if I buy one I don't know if that is another roadblock. Trying to figure out what I need to acquire to do this, and if I end up having to cut the tube or the like, what sort of connectors help me attach a flex line to the existing copper tubing.

Also is there a way to know the sizing of things from the diameter of the nuts (e.g. if I do get the copper pipe removed and can just slap a flex line in there, I need to know what size the threads are. It would be nice to not have to make a bunch of separate trips to the hardware store)?


texts: We have just wired a new 2 way, 2 gang, switch plate, which works, but for one side the 'on' position is up, and for the other it's down, which looks odd and is impractical. Is this a problem with the new switch itself, or something we've done wrong? (These switches are the only ones that control these 2 lights)


texts:
I had a new asphalt driveway installed in March of 2020.
We didn't drive on it for 14 days.  Right away I started noticing "indentations" when we parked on it over night.
Now it's July 1st (and hot) and my vehicles are leaving tread marks in the asphalt - in multiple places.
I have been VERY diligent to NOT turn the tires on the driveway.
Any input on why this is happening would be appreciated.


texts:
Replacing 2 Hunter thermostats with a Honeywell RTH9580 Wifi. Neither unit has a C wire - I'm comfortable with the upstairs high efficiency unit, but the downstairs older unit has thrown me for a loop.

The Hunter has cables connected to G-RH-Y-W, with proper color coding.  There was a spare wire - so no problem, go downstairs, connect to C, and I'd have my 5 wires, good to go.  But... when I got downstairs I found the "Y" connected to "C" on the unit, and the Y terminal had no wiring.  I bought the house this winter, so its never run the A/C.  I'm beginning to question what would happen if I flipped the switch to COOL!

There are secondary wires jumpered off that run to the compressors - but I'm not understanding how to fix the wiring.  Can I just move the wire connected to "C-Y" to "Y-Y" and use the spare wire to connect to "C-C"?  Or is there some reason a unit would be wired to "C" on the unit and "Y" on the thermostat??


texts: Trying to Locate the Common or C Connector

texts: I am trying to hook up a new Honeywell 9580 my old thermostat used batteries and now the new one is asking for a common cable.  I started to follow the instructions upstairs setup the Green as the Common.  Then went down to my furnace only to find out that all I am seeing is RWGY and two blank spaces where the Thermostat wires were supposed to be switched around.  I have googled online looking for more info on my furnace but it looks as if all information has been erased for the company other than a lawsuit over pipes.  Any help to acheive the required Common would be greatly appriciated.  I know I will be bypassing the fan control but if I can get this two work I will order the Venstar wire adaptor.  As these adapters can only be ordered online I need to know I can located the C wire first.


texts: What's the best way to keep my garage from freezing?

texts:
I live in Colorado. My 1950s house has a one-car attached garage that was built in the 2000s. The walls that are not shared with the house are not insulated: the studs and sheathing are visible from the inside. There is no ceiling, so above the joists the rafters and roof sheathing are also visible. There is a single steel overhead door, also uninsulated.

I'd like to keep the garage from freezing because a) I store things like paint and food in it and b) occasionally I want to work out there wearing only moderate cold-weather clothing. It's sufficient to keep the garage at 50ºF/10ºC.

With these goals and conditions in mind, that's the best way to install insulation in this garage? Will I have to install drywall over it? Can I use that shredded-denim insulation to avoid fiberglass countermeasures? What's the best type of heater to use?


texts: Forced air heating air inlet in crawl space

texts:
The air inlet for my electric forced air heating is a small vent on the duct in the crawl space.

Although the crawl space is sealed with a concrete floor and heated (ie insulation is around the outside) it seems wrong to be taking the 'fresh' air from a dusty unused crawl space and blowing that around the house.

Does this make any sense? Should I block this vent, if so do I need to fit another and where?


texts: Wet Room walls, is plasterboard (Gyproc or Drywall) OK to use?

texts:
Looking to build a new wet room style bathroom. Is it better to use cement sheeting for the walls that will be tiled, or will plasterboard (Gyproc) just as good to use? Obviously whichever surface is used will have the relevant wet room sealing mixture used on it, but would cement sheeting provide a better base that Gyproc?

Obviously the cement sheeting is thinner than the plasterboard which would be an advantage to gain some small amount of space.

Once the wet room sealer is applied to the surface it will then be tiled.


texts: how much weight can this square stock hold

texts:
I have a 2" square stock 1/4 thick hollow. It's 210" long.  It's being supported on each end by 4". How much weight can it hold in the center

It's 1018 cold steel 1/4" rounded edges and hollow. I just need approximately how much weight it can hold in the middle. It is supported on both sides by 4". Total piece is 210". Just need an idea of weight it can hold not using this to live underneath it, it was just holding something up in the backyard shed just need an idea that soul can't hold 200 pounds 100 pounds Etc. It's also floating on cinder blocks 4 inches on each side


texts: Can I make an improvised heating system that uses calcium carbide and water?

texts:
Its winter in Australia at the moment and i'm cold. Today i found a few kilo's of Calcium Carbide (CaC2) which, if you react it with water, produces a sizable quantity of acetylene gas. I use it with this device for lighting at the moment but i'm wondering if its possible to make my own gas heater out of the stuff (we don't have gas lines here only electricity which is expensive). Acetylene gas burns quite hot so i'm not sure if there are many materials that can handle that heat

Is it possible/practical/safe to make my own gas heater using acetylene?


texts: Is this "sunken scew head" on the underside of a pan head a thing?

texts:
I saw listing which was described as a "sunked screw head"-- which I know as meant for a countersunk hole that tapers.
Here is a copy of the photo where I can see a gap at the underside of the pan head. Is this a typo in the description or is this an actual head type?
The listing is on Aliexpress with no proper specification. I don't think I'll have much luck trying to ask the seller which is why I'm asking here.


texts: What connectors do I need for this water heater?

texts: Looking at replacing my water heater with this one. It has screw-on inlet/outlets. I want to connect to the old copper inlets/outlets with pex and Sharkbite fittings. What kind of connectors do I need at the water tank for these that will connect to pex?


texts: I have an electrical situation, 3 switches controlling one light and I want to put in a dimmer. What type of dimmer do I need, 3-way, 4-way,or what?


texts: Replace 7" metal duct with 6" flexible or 8" flexible?

texts:
I am replacing the flexible ductwork in my attic, which is a mix of ancient 6" and 7" metal ducting.  I'm having a hard time finding 7" flexible ductwork for sale locally, but no problem with 6" and 8".  For a smaller, fairly open single story ranch house, would it cause excessive airflow issues to use 6" or 8" instead?

This is going to a room with about 160 square feet by the way.  An additional, larger room is about 290 square feet that currently has 2x7" ducts to it.


texts:
When I turned the valve off, it was as if it made a small click, as if it had reached a locking position.

Now I can't turn it on again.

I have one other just like this one, and that one can I turn on and off without problems.

Are there some trick to know in order to turn on a valve this this?


texts: I am adding a 240 volt dedicated circuit from main 200 amp surface mounted outdoor service panel. It will be used to power outdoor 50 amp subpanel.  Run is 50 feet and plan to use #6 stranded copper for hot and neutral and #8 for ground.  Plan to use liquidtight flex conduit (gray) exiting main panel into crawl space. It it permissible to use this to continue run exiting house under wooden deck to terminate in subpanel?  Must I use other type of conduit with junction box under home to continue run to terminate in outdoor mounted subpanel. Subpanel is for hot tub which rigid PVC and liquidtight whip will be used from subpanel.


texts: Our home has many mice, a few rats and possibly a squirrel. Concerned about them chewing on wires in our two-story with brick fireplace.  Should I invest in an infared camera- or is this overkill?


texts:
This home has a PVC pipe running from outside the garage, to a pool+spa setup. The electrical circuit seems to be carrying 240V/60A - (primarily for the water  heater).  It runs on the ground beside a concrete slab for about 20feet and then it runs along the fence for 100 ft, ON the ground all the way.

<BREAKER OUTSIDE GARAGE> ----125ft long pvc --------<SUBPANEL NEAR POOL>

It sure is unsafe as PVC can break when a lawn mower goes over it and the wires get exposed.

Can junction boxes be used in this circuit?  If yes, the easiest DIY fix seems to be
- breakers off
- cut the pipe, cut the wires and make junction boxes,
- dig 6" deep trenches, put new wires and connect those to the junction boxes.

<BREAKER> ---good/safe section----junctionbox---6" conduit underground
           -----junction box-----<BREAKER>

That way, the electrical circuit itself does not have to be done from scratch.  I am told by someone that an electrician would have to disconnect the entire electrical circuit, including all breakers, lay out new pipes with PVC 2" underground, new cable and reconnect the breakers/subpanel etc.

Can you have junction boxes in this circuit?
Can you run a metal conduit mounted in the fence?
Can you run a metal conduit on concrete posts to keep it above the ground?

[EDIT/ADD] - The markings on the pipe indicate: Ridgeline SCH 80 Rigid PVC Conduit Max 90 C Wire NEMA TC2 Sunlight Resistant NSF NRTL UL 651"


texts: Heat Damage to Laminate Counter-top Near Gas Range

texts:
While deep cleaning our new home, after closing, my wife and discovered what looks like some heat damage to the counter-top next to the gas range.  The house was fully renovated about 2 years ago, just prior to the last owner buying the place, and the range/oven combo was installed as part of the renovation.  I'm new to gas appliances, so I'm somewhat uncertain as to what to expect as to the particulars of certain behaviors of gas appliances.
My thought is that the heat damage may have occurred before the gap covers were installed.  Is that so, or does this look like something that was likely to happen after the covers were installed?


texts: What is the best technique for using a drill to insert screws?

texts:
It looks so easy on the DIY programs, but I battle to insert screws using my drill. The screwdriver bit keeps slipping out, and it damages the screw head.

Is there a neat trick for this?

Should I set the drill's speed to low / high?

Short bursts or steady power?


texts: What to do with a gap in the countertop next to kitchen sink?

texts: I screwed up cutting the hole for the 25" drop in sink on my $160 countertop. It's just a little too wide. What are my options besides buying a larger 33 inch sink and being more careful next time?


texts: Vertical position of cable railing tightening anchors for stairs

texts:
I am installing cable railing parallel and below my stair banister. They will be anchored in the newel posts. I am using a simple anchor (picture right) on one side and a tightening one (picture left) on the other.

Does it matter which of the two takes which vertical position? E.g. is it important that the tightening anchor be on top or on the bottom of the stairs or does it matter?


texts:
I have some switches that are a little further from a door frame than I'd like (because I intend to put cabinetry on that wall and the switch might be in the way). I've seen the 25% notching restriction for load-bearing studs, but I am not sure about studs that frame doors and about lateral notches, as you would use to move the work box left.

While I don't know with certainty, it appears the stud framing the door is quite wide, so I shouldn't be notching more than 25% of width anyway. The attached pictures should clarify.


texts: Chimney on 100 year old home has pulled away from outside wall

texts: I am restoring a 100 year old one story wood frame home with a metal roof. The original foundation sits on cut logs. The chimney has pulled away from the roof line which leaves an exposed area where rain falls inside the exposed area. Farther down the outside wall, there is a 3 inch gap between the outside wall and the chimney. This has been like this for over 10 years.  The chimney looks straight and there are not any cracks in the brick chimney. Do you think it is the foundation of the house has sunk and this caused the house to  pull away from the chimney?  If so, should I raise the foundation? Should I remove the top of the chimney and close off the area at the top around the roof and frame up the 3 inch area at the bottom?  Should I push the chimney toward the house to close the gap?  I am doing the work myself so it needs to be something I can do on a low budget. Any help is appreciated.


texts: Need advice on moving a cable with a steel beam and stairs in the way

texts:
I live in a tri-level home. I am on the bottom floor and trying to run a cable from the wall up into the ceiling of the lower floor to put lights into this room. The way that it is currently done is not okay. Looking at my picture, the cable comes up and then it runs horizontally into the open space in the steel I-beam. It then hits a junction box (guessing the cable was too short) and then further down it runs up into the ceiling basically on the face of the stud. The drywall on the wall was notched to allow clearance for the cable. I know that is no okay, which is why I am trying to move it.
The beam runs the whole length of the wall, so I cannot just go further down to go up into the ceiling. And it is my understanding that I cannot drill a hole through the top flange of the beam.
So I think my only option (and not even sure if it is an option) is to go through the wood that is to the left and above the beam. Instead of the cable that is circled in red going through that stud, I need it to go up and come out above the wall where I have the purple circle. Not sure what is okay to drill through since there is so much going on here.
In short, how do I get a cable from red circle to purple circle without compromising the structure of the floor above or the stairs?

Edit to add picture where existing cable goes into ceiling on the surface of the studs.


texts: Adding hot water feed to an outdoor spigot

texts:
I have a regular outdoor spigot fed by a 1/2" copper pipe from the basement through a brick wall. I want to add a hot water feed to it, regulated by a valve to adjust temperature in order to make washing our dog a little bit more comfortable. I'd like to avoid drilling another hole through bricks.
My plan is diagrammed below:
Cold and hot come from the same main feed, with the latter passing through a tank heater.
Is this OK from the engineering point of view to add-mix hot water like this? Should I add  check valves?
To put it another way, do bathroom faucets that mix hot and cold water do something more than just combine two flows together that I cannot emulate with a couple of Ts and a valve?


texts: How to patch a wood lath plaster rounded corner?

texts:
I am attempting to repair a rounded plaster corner. (Image below).  The plaster was blown out during an electrical re-wire for the bathroom switch pictured.

I’m assuming the wire corner bead runs vertically along the entire corner, floor to ceiling. There are parts of the blowout with no wood.

Question is - what is the PROPER way to repair this? Should I tie in a scrap piece of lath to the existing where it’s missing or can I treat this like a drywall patch and patch in a rectangular piece of drywall with some blocking?

Also, can I use a fast setting compound (20 or 45) and finish with a topping coat of joint compound - or should I use PlasterMagic, or another plaster alternative?

I’ll be painting the entire bathroom after the repairs.


texts: How can high and low voltage be mixed in a junction box?

texts: So I'm aware of the standard rule of thumb, keep high and low voltage away from each other, preferably on opposite sides of a stud. However, while looking at some properties, I'm seeing telephone and cable lines in the same junction box as an electrical outlet. Under what conditions is this permitted by NEC?


texts: Looking for a way to connect LED strip to 18 AWG wire neatly

texts:
I'm installing a LED strip(2pin) lighting in our staircase.
There's an 18 AWG wire coming out from each tread nosing that is attached to the LED strip a couple inches away from it.

The problem I'm having is with hiding this 18 AWG wire - it's quite thick, so it doesn't really stick well to the nosing (tried gluing it).
Any advice on best practices to hide the wire leading into LED strips for installations like this?
The wire coming in to LED strip itself doesn't have to be that thick, in fact standard connectors have 22AWG wire that I think would be much easier to glue and hide from view.
I was thinking perhaps the 18AWG wire coming out of the tread could be terminated right there with a connector to which a thinner wire could plug into and lead to the strip. Any advice on what type of connectors could work best for such a solution? I need to make a 90 degree turn from incoming wire there - had hard time finding a corner connector for that.


texts:
I want to hang a baby bed in our bedroom (less than 20kg /44lbs).

I drilled a hole into the concrete ceiling.. which i was expecting to be quite thick, but its actually only about 4cm (1 9/16") depth!

I'm guessing it's made of stuff like in the pics below (as when i view this slab from the balcony it's very thick)

Originally i was thinking of using expansion bolts... but from reading data sheets it seems like i need a hole deeper than 4cm (1 9/16")

So thinking instead of using toggle bolts.

The questions are:

Is 4cm (1 9/16" concrete) ok to be drilling and hanging 20kgs (45lbs)
?
Any issues with using Toggle bolts to handle that weight?
i read the data sheet from PowerFasteners (see snapshot below) and it seems to be totally fine Any issues with drilling two holes close to each other as a backup?

PowerFasteners Toggle Bolt Data sheet:
Allowable Load tension values look fine...

thanks in advance!


texts: Should I attempt to get to a potentially damaged trap and check it out myself?

texts:
I have a back up in my garage drain.  I mopped it up and today I returned to see the same, nasty smelling liquid had returned to almost the exact same level and quantity that was previously there.  Questions/thoughts/comments?  Some initial research says that it is linked into the kitchen, and use of the kitchen is what backs it up.  It then Ys to the main, and the main was tested as good to the road.

I was told by one plumber that it's probably a crushed pipe seeing as I and he was unable to snake it.  Should I attempt to bust the cement up and get to the trap and check it out myself?  What is the level of experience needed for that?


texts: 3 valve shower allowing flow to tub and shower

texts:
I have a price pfister 3 handle shower (circa mid 70s) that when set to shower also lets water out of the tub spout. . When set to tub only, flow is completely blocked to shower head. I have replaced the seat washer and the valve seat with no improvement.  There are no other replacement parts on this valve. I applied air pressure from the shower nozzle down to the diverter to test if the diverter was sealing and i could hear no bypassing air through the valve. When pulling the valve back out i can physically see where the washer has compressed against the seat.

Any idea why i cant get the divertor to block flow to the tub?


texts: How can I install a ceiling fan, recessed lights, and receptacles on the same circuit?

texts:
I believe the configuration in the image below is what I need in order to power a ceiling fan and recessed lights on two separate switches out of a two gang box using the existing cables.

However, what is different from the diagram is that I have a 2 way cable in the switch box that leads to all the outlets in the room, so it will need constant power. How can I achieve this?


texts: Can I install two GFCI receptacles on a multiwire branch circuit?

texts:
I am wondering if I'm using a 10/3 teck cable to power two 20 amp GFCI receptacles for a temporary power situation, can I use two separate single pole 20 amp breakers at the panel for each receptacle.
Meaning i took Black wire to one receptacle, Red to other receptacle and pigtailed neutral and shared it between receptacles.

Will it work? Why or why not?

Is it to code?


texts: How should I fill in a missing strip of drywall that I uncovered after removing a piece of trim?

texts:
I'm redoing my back landing area and pulled off a piece of trim off the wall and a piece of quarter round off the staircase because I want to sand and paint the wall and don't want random pieces of trim anymore.

Turns out there is nothing behind the trim. Do I need to cut a strip of drywall first or could I fill it in with some sort of plaster? If I need to cut a strip of drywall how would I screw it down then? The wood visible inside this strip of wall is the hardwood in the room next door, I don't really want to screw into there.

Thanks :)


texts: I have Cedar Siding and would like to tap into a inside outlet and put a outside outlet on the siding.. Can I use a plastic old box and but in siding or do I need to use a metal box and have it on the outside of siding? Yes I know it has to be sealed..


texts: Can dimmable (triac) LED bulbs be used on a motion sensor switch without neutral wire?

texts:
I bought a bunch of these motion sensor switches.

I also want to use these dimmable LED bulbs.

The motion sensors do not have a neutral wire connector. My outlets only have a live wire and it would be prohibitively expensive to put a neutral wire in.

I understand that regular LEDs flicker due to the trickle power from the sensor.

I want to know if dimmable (triac-compatible) LEDs would also flicker?

Also, if I buy the dimmable LEDs and they don't flicker am I ok to use them? Or will the trickle power damage them or shorten their life?


texts: I am currently dealing with a little confusion regarding arc fault protection and how it would be enforced by 2016 NEC code. I'm not a licensed electrician, I'm doing an apprenticeship and the guy overseeing my work is unavailable right now, was hoping for some advice.  I ran a branch circuit to a shared switch box consisting of 2 - 3 way switches powering independent lighting circuits. I used a 14/3 cable not being aware he was enforcing this code. (I haven't seen it enforced much around here in my experience). I was am now being told that you can not share a common neural and still arc fault protect them. I think I may have found a way if I were to use a 2- pole 15 amp breaker they would only need one neutral, correct? Is this violating any other NEC codes in the process by them having a common trip? Also I am finding GE has discontinued 2 pole afci breakers. I would have to order online to match the load center but does anyone have any idea as to why they stopped making them? Were they having trouble with the functionality? Any advice you guys may have would be a big help. Thanks


texts: Do two 5k BTU air conditioners produce the same cooling power as one 10k BTU unit?

texts: Could you interchange 10k BTU air conditioner with 2 5k BTU air conditioner and get the same result? Or is there a reason why buying one 10k BTU air conditioner is better than having 2 5k BTU air conditioners.