texts: Paver Patio with Backfill Settlement Around Block Foundation

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Main Question:
I've been told that a concrete skirt (8" sloped pad) below the frost line and attached to the foundation via rebar is a good solution for putting pavers next to a block wall foundation that has had uncompacted backfill. Is this really a good idea or are there better ones?
My concern is that the concrete skirt could crack the cinder block with settlement over time. Without that solution, am I taking a huge risk that my pavers up to 3' out will settle over time and need fixed?
Project Background:
I'm building an 18'x20' paver patio (19'x21' total to account for overflow) alongside my house. 18' will run parallel to the foundation, and the 20' will run out to the yard. The 3" high pavers will sit next to the cinder block foundation (No siding), and I'll have 1" of leveling sand underneath, followed by 6" of crushed 3/4" stone (Totalling 10" down from the finished height). Landscaping fabric will lay between the stone base and clay soil underneath. Note: The clay soil is full of shale, and the house is in Pennsylvania (So all seasons here).
Current Situation:
I've dug out the clay/shale dirt to set the stone base in, but noticed around the foundation block that the soil had air pockets in it from all the shale scatter amongst it at various angles. There was a smaller concrete pad in that same place that I dug up previously due to cracking and having an improper base.
Current Advice Given To Me:
A seasoned hardscaper told me most builders overdig the basement by about 2'-3', lay the foundation in, and then backfill the outside without compacting. No matter how old the house, that backfill will continue to settle. His suggestion was to make a concrete skirt down below the frost line that would support the stone base and pavers above if there were any settlement beneath the skirt.
His directions were to dig out 2-3' (Until you find the compacted soil past the backfill), 19' wide (The width of the base) and 44" down (Below the frost line and adding in the slab thickness). Afterwards, lay rebar down in a gridlike fashion (Drilling 4" into the cinder block to attach the rebar to the foundation). Next pour an 8" thick slab (Running the width and length of the hole) with a 1/4" slope finish that goes out to the compact soil. Let it cure, and then pour in 3/4" stone (Compacting every 2") until desire height for sand and pavers.
Picture Drawing For Reference

Picture Reference of Concrete Skirt Below Frost Line (Note: Not Exact Scale)


texts: Why does half the house go out when a single breaker trips?

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The breaker box at my brother's house is well marked and balanced except when a breaker is tripped half the house goes out. I'm currently living on the third floor of his house. When I turned on a small fridge the room went out as well as the stairwell, hall light,  kitchen (including a separately breaker-ed microwave) and basement lights.  Could all of these be on one breaker?

My brother swears it wasn't always like that and that since an ugly divorce things have been done to the house. I always thought he was paranoid but I have seen a couple of things that make me wonder.

I have traced back and nothing jumps out at me, no Uh-Oh's. Reading before about neutrals being bundled together made sense.

Any additional guidance, direction would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Do deck footings need to be spaced evenly?

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I am planning to create a deck around 2 trees. Because of a irregular shape of the deck, it's hard to make the footing spacing uniform. I plan to have them 53" apart but some area will have footings much closer like 20-30" apart due to the trees. I am planning to use 4x4 posts, 4x8 beams and 2x8 joists for this deck.

Is it OK to do it like that? I mean as long as it won't go further than 6' apart at any two footings, it should be OK right?


texts: I recently (in the last 2 days) installed gas logs in my home. The pilot light stays lit, I crank them up and after about 10ish minutes they sputter and go out(the pilot light stays lit). I turn them up to high they relight and burn for 30 min then sputter and go out... I don't know why it's doing this....any thoughts?


texts: Do I need to stain or seal an outdoor structure built from spruce?

texts: I've constructed a outdoor shower cubicle at our cabin, mainly out of untreated spruce with a little pine. This will be exposed to the elements and will obviously get wet when used. My question is do I need to treat it, stain or varnish it in any way or can I just let it weather naturally?


texts: Is it safe to use Biflex TC for termite control in my house?

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Today I found that my house is infested with termites. It's really scary the way they affect wooden stuff inside the house.

I contacted a few agencies here in my city (Ahmedabad, India). The one that seemed good said that they use Biflex TC to deal with the termites. I wanted to know if anyone here has any idea whether the chemical has been or is probably going to be banned from any countries due to its effects on humans.

I may sound paranoid but I am concerned about my family's health. If the chemical has any adverse effects on human health then I would definitely look for some other option.

PS - I found a termite related question asked earlier on the site but it had no mention of Biflex TC.


texts: Can a Knob & Tube live hot wire be left disconnected without the neutral in a switch box?

texts: Can a live (capped) knob & tube hot wire be left disconnected, without the neutral (it's removed) in a new switch box now fed by a modern 20amp circuit and romex?  The reason it is still live is because the circuit operates other lights in the house.


texts: Installing ceramic tile on top of wooden bathroom floor

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In the middle of a bathroom re-model and at the point of replacing the floor.

Removed the existing vinyl tile from the floor and a bit confused about what is underneath. Not sure what is needed for it to support ceramic tile. Specifically, this mosaic tile.

This is what the subfloor looks like after the vinyl removal.

It's difficult to determine the type of wood. There is either a membrane/underlayment or sealant of some kind that stayed on the floor after the vinyl was removed. There's only a few spots peaking through.

I'm hesitant to pry off this "membrane" in case this material might help in installing the ceramic on the subfloor without requiring another underlayment like Ditra, Easymat or backerboard.

There is very little extra space between the exterior floor and the bathroom that raising it with any of those options will add too much of a height disparity.

My questions are:

What is the wood used and the "membrane" on top?
Can I install tile on top (with thinset) or is an additional underlayment required?
If it's required, can something like Redgard or self-levelling cement be used to keep the height increase to an absolute minimum?

This is my first time doing any flooring so I appreciate the help. Thanks!


texts: Connecting new GFCI in the middle of a circuit run

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I have 4 outlet locations in a circuit run.
From left to right, the line feed is directly to outlet location #3.
I want a GFCI to protect all 4 outlets, so I want to put the GFCI in location #3.
Can I connect the wires for outlet #2 and outlet #4 directly to the GFCI receptacle, since there are 2 sets of push-in LOAD connecters on the bottom of it?


texts: I need to get up on roof anyway, so what should I inspect while I'm up there?

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I noticed a filthy tree rat (squirrel) poking its head out from a hole in my gutter leaf guards today. Gotta get up on the roof to clean and repair that mess.

Since I'm two stories up already, what else should I inspect while I'm up there?

So far I can think of:

Gutters - clean and soundly attached
Roof openings - all vents attached properly, sealed well, etc.
Chimney - chimney cap attached and in good repair, good seal where it meets the roof
Trim - check for peeling paint, rot, etc.
Pests - check for insect damage, check for varmint holes
General survey of my yard - Might spot something from high up that I can't see from the ground

What else should I look for? Anything specific to the roof shingles I should look for?


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We are painting the wall behind our gas oven today, and we'd like to pull the oven forward a couple inches to be able to paint behind the oven a little bit.

The oven is on a wood floor so I'm hesitant to brute force pull it forward because I don't want to damage the floor.

Also, I'm not sure of the safety of doing this.  The oven is about 9 years old and I would think the gas line is flexible, but I'm not sure.

Any tips for moving the oven or should we just skip it and paint around the edges as best we can?


texts: The troffer I bought comes with a disconnect, two black, two white. I had no problem wiring in two of them but the third one is difficult. The light bulb that was in there before had its black wire marretted to the source black but the white was marretted to three others coming in to the fixture. I can take the black wire from the source and push it into the disconnect but which of the three white wires do I take from the source to connect to the disconnect? Conversely, can I just snip off the disconnect and marrette both the black and white to the source? Thanks. BTW. Why would there be multiple whites marretted coming in from the source?


texts: What product will work best for repairing a clothes dryer drum which is cracking along the Weld?

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My clothes dryer's drum is made of aluminum rolled into a cylinder and welded together along a single seam.  The weld has developed a crack approximately 1" long, and is opened by about 1/8th of an inch.

The crack flexes on every rotation as it passes by a roller.  I've attempted fixing it with standard J-B Weld.  After sanding, cleaning, and applying a moderate layer of JB Weld to both sides I allowed it to cure 24 hours, but the crack reappeared while doing the first load of laundry.

What product(s) can I use to mend the crack and prevent it from re-opening, wihtout it failing in the heat of the dryer, or leaving residue on clothes?  I've thought of trying to combine an epoxy as well as a strap of reinforcing tape on the outside of the drum, but don't know what specific products to try.


texts:
So I'm not the best with electrical work, and I'm running into issues replacing my bathroom vent fan and light.

The setup is three switches on the wall:

One switch controlled fan.
One switch to vent light.
One switch to other ceiling light.

Where the new vent fan and light is going:

From the ceiling - two sets of white/black/ground
From the light/vent - two sets of white/black/ground

If I connect everything one to one:

The first switch turns on fan and other ceiling light.
Second switch does nothing?
Third switch turns off fan, and makes the other ceiling light brighter.

Help? How should I be wiring this?

Update: just attached black to black, and white to white (for all four wires). The fan works, the ceiling light works, but when I switch on the light for the vent unit, both the vent light and the other ceiling light just start flashing. It's like I've wired an alert that I'm terrible at electrical work.


texts: What type of wall construction is shown in these pictures?

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These photos were taken through a small hole in the wall of a house. They are of the inside of the cavity. The hole they were taken through is at a height of about 60cm from the internal ground floor level. The left of the photos is the inside of the outer leaf of the external wall of the house.

What kind of construction am I looking at? How was this wall constructed and what materials is in likely to be made from? What features of the wall do these photos show? Is there anything unusual in them?

Looking to the right, along the wall:

Looking up and to the right along the wall:

Looking steeply up and a bit to the right:

Picture of the inside of the wall in the corner of another room. The bottom 10cm of the plaster has been removed. The left is the external wall and the right is an internal wall (the corner is rounded!):

Detail of the internal surface of the base of the external wall. The hole shown in the picture was found when the plaster was removed, metal can be seen in the hole (it is not the same hole that the other photos were taken through, it is in a different room):


texts: Staining and varnishing a new floor board to match the rest of the floor

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Recently removed a wall between our lounge and dining rooms to create a nice big open space. I installed new raw floor boards in the hole where the wall was. The new floorboards are the same timber (cedar) as the rest of the house.

What is considered the best way to stain and varnish the new boards to match the rest of the flooring?


texts: Limescale removal in bathroom (not tiled)

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I have a limescale problem in my bathroom. As you can see, it follows the arc of the shower door and it's also pretty bad inside the shower.

I have tried various limescale removal products but most of these require the surface to be rinsed off after use. I used the product and rinsed it off inside the shower cubicle and mopped the floor a few times outside the shower cubicle but this didn't work as the picture shows.

How can I remove it? I should also add that the floor is not made of smooth tiles like the wall is.


texts: Is there a way to remove the warp in plywood?

texts: I just bought some 1/2" plywood from HD for a project, and the best piece I could find was still pretty warped. Is there a way to fix this? Currently, it's sitting flat on my garage floor with a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top of it. Other than adding more weight (maybe some half-empty paint cans?) is there anything else I can do to help it flatten out?


texts: My dryer has a issue after switching the breaker

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I sold my old dryer because my neighbor gave me a new dryer
And her new dryer had a 4 prong plug compared to my old dryer which had a 3 prong plug...

I changed the 3 prong wire plug to the 4 prong dryer so it would plug into my outlet for the dryer... the dryer is on a 60 amp breaker by the way... and everything was fine the first couple of months then my breaker started getting hot, like too hot to touch kind of hot...

I switched off the breaker and switched it back on later and now the dryer won't work at all... my question is, would changing the wires on dryers cause a electrical malfunction in time and ruin something in the dryer by pulling to much current when the dryer had a 4 prong to start... ???

I found the 60 amp breaker odd for a dryer also, but no I can't post pictures... the dryer is too heavy for me to move and it's just a regular 3 prong dryer outlet , the wires were just changed from the dryer to the outlet...so it would work, and I didn't have to change the outlet.


texts: Is there some DIY way I can fill up the cracks in the concrete path outside my home without having to go and hire professionals? See picture for how the crack looks like.


texts: Lennox Healthy Climate Humidifier - No Water

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With a recent cold snap I noticed that my 5 year old humidifier is dry. It is connected directly to the motherboard of the furnace and not to a wall sensor. Where is the humidity sensor and how can I diagnose the problem.
Thx


texts: How do you deal with the giant foundation overhang when using ridged foam and a rain screen on an exterior wall?

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When designing a building that uses modern techniques like those featured in this Building Science article, such as exterior ridged foam insulation and a rain screen, how do you deal with the hideous looking overhang of materials extending way beyond the slab?

With 2" of foam insulation, 1/2" sheathing, 1/2" furring strips and 1/2" siding, there's a full 4" of wall covering on the face of the studs. So if the stud wall is built on the edge of the slab, you have 4" of overhanging materials, floating 6" above the ground. (Code requires a 6" minimum gap between the final grade and the bottom of wood members, so you can't fill the gap with dirt.)

I drew an example to scale to illustrate the problem. Essentially, the concrete wall comes up 6", then goes out 4" for the width of the materials, and then continues up. I think this is going to look ugly, especially near doors where there's a concrete patio slab outside instead of dirt.

I'm assuming that I'm doing this wrong, so could someone please tell me the proper way to design this type of wall so it's not unsightly? (And also functions as intended).

Should the slab be extended further, and the studs set back from the edge so the bulk of the rain screen, furring strips, and insulation sit over the slab?


texts: Bathroom bulb only giving off weak light

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I turned on my bathroom light this evening and was surprised to note that it only gave off a very feeble light, barely illuminating the room. On inspection, it looked like only the ends closest to the connection were giving off any light at all.

I presumed this was a bulb issue, so I changed it and was surprised to find that the new bulb behaved identically. So it seems this is an electrical fault.

The light fitting takes 4 pin fluorescent bulbs, like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-PL-Q-GR10Q-Compact-Lamp/dp/B000ONNOH4

The issue only affects the bathroom light, and no others in the house. I have not noticed any other electrical faults, nor am I aware of anything that might have caused a wire to break or become lose anywhere.

What might have caused this? Is it something I can fix, or do I need an electrician? Is it urgent, in the sense of it being a safety hazard?


texts: Cable amplifier repeater setup for best signal

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I have a long run from the pole to my house, so the cable company installed a repeater.  After doing some research I'm starting to see that I'm still not getting the full signal strength to my Main TV and My Cable Modem.

Here is what I have now:

the two things I'd like to accomplish are

1 - get the best signal possible to my Main TV and to my Cable Modem

2 - Add one more TV

So here is what I was thinking should work:

Please let me know your thoughts on this approach or if there is a better way to do it.

TIA

M

UPDATE 5/19/2015 12:47 am EST

Here are the current results from my modem:

Downstream Bonded Channels

Channel Lock Status Modulation Channel ID Frequency Power SNR Corrected
Uncorrectables
1 Locked QAM256 1 651000000 Hz 3.6 dBmV 38.8 dB 6238 3004
2 Locked QAM256 2 657000000 Hz 3.3 dBmV 38.6 dB 5254 2258
3 Locked QAM256 3 663000000 Hz 3.2 dBmV 38.5 dB 4282 1875
4 Locked QAM256 4 669000000 Hz 3.3 dBmV 38.5 dB 3444 1327
5 Locked QAM256 5 675000000 Hz 2.9 dBmV 38.1 dB 4326 1508
6 Locked QAM256 6 681000000 Hz 2.9 dBmV 38.4 dB 4995 2056
7 Locked QAM256 7 687000000 Hz 2.8 dBmV 38.4 dB 5716 2352
8 Locked QAM256 8 693000000 Hz 2.6 dBmV 38.3 dB 7679 4029

Upstream Bonded Channels

Channel Lock Status US Channel Type Channel ID Symbol Rate Frequency Power
1 Locked ATDMA 10 5120 Ksym/sec 36500000 Hz 45.5 dBmV
2 Locked ATDMA 11 5120 Ksym/sec 30100000 Hz 45.0 dBmV
3 Locked ATDMA 12 5120 Ksym/sec 23700000 Hz 44.5 dBmV


texts:
The previous owners of my house installed a small deck off the back of the house. The deck was built flush against the siding.
I am going to replace the siding on the house, so I’m wondering what to do around the deck.
Do I remove the deck so that I can remove the siding between it and the sheathing?
Or
Do I cut the siding around the deck to remove it, then put the new siding around the deck (instead of behind it)?
The new siding will be vinyl.


texts: Can I use #8 wire in a 15 or 20A circuit?

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I have a customer with a detached garage/shed unit that wants to install a few outlets and light fixtures/recessed lighting - common residential use, meaning no heavy power tools, washers/dryers, etc.

The CLOSEST power supply to the unit is 8 AWG wire rated for 40A-- which is coming from a 40A breaker in the panel. This breaker previously powered an outdoor spa.  The wire is run via underground conduit out to the original spa location -- which has since been removed. The conduit opening is about 6 feet away from the garage.

My initial plan was to swap the 40A breaker in the panel to 15A or 20A and pull out the 8 gauge wire entirely and swap it with 14 AWG or 12 AWG. From there, I would extend the conduit to the garage and wire up the receptacles and lights from there.

The customer wants to know WHY we can't just simply "tap into" or use the end of the existing conduit run with 8 AWG as a junction point for the 14/12AWG that will run into the garage.

Besides always wanting to matching the wire gauge EXACTLY to the breaker I have in the panel -- I didn't have a good response.  Obviously running NEW matching wire adds more to his cost -- so I want to be sure there is a technical standard I'm meeting by pushing for doing this.

What options do I have here?  Or is the customer correct?


texts: How does my Boiler work with my Baseboard and thermostat

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In the apartment I am at I am just wondering how the boiler system works between all the units. Apparently its one water pipe going the whole perimeter of the floor but each apartment has it's own thermostat with the fin type baseboard heaters. So if my apartment is between two apartments with their baseboards off, how do I get flow to my apartment? I would assume the switch for these baseboards would open or close a valve to the whole pipe feeding between all the units. So I believe I am missing something.

Also what kind of thermostat can I use. Does any digital thermostat rated for 24V work? Not to sure whats actually going on when you turn the thermostat on. It's also only two low voltage two wires so it's not a bunch of coloured wires like other thermostats have. Thank You.


texts: Mounting wifi access point to lath and plaster ceiling

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I'm currently wiring CAT 6 network cable throughout my house and am also installing several Ubiquiti NanoHD wifi access points on ceilings. The original house is a 1920s build and has lath and plaster ceilings; the 1990s extension uses plasterboard.
The fixing instructions offer two installation approaches:

wall mount (though also recommended for plasterboard ceilings) - drilling four 6mm holes and using rawl plugs, plus an 18mm hole for the network cable:

ceiling mount for drop ceilings - drilling four 3mm holes plus the 18mm hole and using a plate:

I intend to use the first approach for the plasterboard ceilings in the modern parts of the house, and my inclination is to use the second approach for the lath and plaster ceilings in the older part of the house since I do have access to the space above those ceilings.
However, drilling (in general) into lath and plaster gives me concern, particularly because of  the horror stories I've seen of people trying to install recessed lights and the entire ceiling falling down and electricians saying "never again"!
My questions are:

Am I over-thinking this? Should I just go ahead and use the first approach throughout the home?
If I should use the second approach in the older parts of the house, do I need any thought as to where to drill the holes - e.g. should they be in the plaster gaps between the lath wherever possible, or should they be through the lath? I've seen conflicting guidance on this - arguing you don't want to disturb the lath, but that you don't want to disturb the bond and the "tails" of the plaster between the laths.

I could use Command Strips as a last resort as the devices only weigh 300g (10.6oz), but would still require the 18mm cable hole.


texts: Sound of running water behind walls upstairs and downstairs

texts: I woke up this morning to the sound of water running behind my walls. We live in a townhouse and share walls with 3 other owners. I've checked my toilet tanks in all bathroom to be sure the valve is not open, and all seems fine. I've asked one neighbor to check and she said all good on her side. Another neighbor is out of town, and the 3rd neighbor just moved in a few months ago whom I've not yet met. I will ask them tomorrow to check their toilet tank flush valve. Oddly enough earlier today I could hear a neighbor flushed their toilet, and the water running thru the walls stopped for a brief second. Am I onto something or just wishful thinking?  I looked at my ceiling and the walls and no sign of leakage. Once I've contacted all my neighbors, and the noise continues, I will have my plumber come in and see what the problem is. Any other suggestions are welcome. Thank you.


texts:
How close can an electric water heater and an electric furnace be to each other?

My water heater is 7 inches from my furnace. I need 4 inches so that I can install a water softener and wash sink. So I need to know if it is OK to move the water heater over by 4 inches, so that I can put them in.


texts: My husband kept cutting off the beveled edges to make easier measurements. I suggested only cutting one edge where possible. Also he was cutting the off side (brown) and leaving roygh paper edges. I also suggested cutting good side.  Maybe I should've been a little more forceful with my suggestions in the first place. Can two rough edges be joined without an obvious bump under mud?


texts: is it okay to flatten a slightly curved 2x4 against the wall with lag screws?

texts:
I bought a slightly curved (0.3 inch elevation in one corner if I lay it flat) 2x4 that I bought in order to mount a hanging bar on it. I need it to be flush against the wall so that it aligns with another 2x4 to form a flat surface.
Is it okay if I use lag screws with washers to force the 2x4 completely flat against the wall?


texts: Is it okay that framing in houses is sloppy?

texts:
I've been watching people do framing on residential homes for a while; both in person and on videos. The framing is very "sloppy" compared to watching a craftsman build a cabinet, for example. The cuts are choppy, edges don't always butt tight, wood splintered from nail guns is ignored, etc...

I assume builders don't worry about all of the minor details because they're moving quickly, working with lower quality materials, and because most framing is hidden behind drywall, roofing materials, etc...

What I'm trying to understand if this is, in fact, an okay thing to do? Are there any advantages to building a house like a master carpenter would build a quality piece of furniture? Are there any disadvantages or problems that creep up from this quality of construction?


texts: What is the recommended distance between brackets when supporting a particleboard shelf 11 3/4 inches deep by 3/4 inches thick to support books?


texts: What could cause an old electric oven to run hot even when adjusted to the lowest setting?

texts:
I have an old (probably 1940s) Hotpoint stove/oven that came with my 1901 farmhouse. The cook-top works well enough to use but the oven runs in the neighborhood of 100 degrees F over what the dial is set to. I tested this with a new oven thermometer and when set at 300f on the dial, the thermometer reads just over 400f.

There is an adjustment on the back of the knob to adjust the oven temperature setting to actual temperature but it's already cranked all the way to the lowest setting. Are there power resistors inside this thing that have lost their ability to resist current and allowing too much voltage to the coils? I'm a fairly able electronic DIY'er having built several tube amplifiers & guitar effects over the years so I'm not adverse to tearing into the stove if I have to. It is a pretty nice vintage piece though so I'd rather not rip it apart if I don't have to.


texts: How Do Houses Prevent a Water Buildup in the Flooring?

texts:
I have been reading Canadian Wood-Frame House Construction to get an idea how houses are built and function, and am really confused about one aspect.

External floors are built just like external walls, just on their side. Internal boards->Vapour Barrier->Studs/joists with insulation. Which makes a lot of logical sense in walls and ceilings. But since water drains down, I have no idea how this is supposed to work for the flooring. I am using an example of a wood framed external floor, but the same principal extends to concrete slabs that have a vapor barrier built in. Assuming I spilt some water, or a pipe broke, a few gallons of water got on the floor. How does this standard design allow this excess water to be shed by the house?

The entire house is encased in a plastic vapor barrier, that is sealed and caulked at all the seams, it is one giant plastic bag. This house now has several gallons of water under the floor boards. What happens next? Or is a vapour barrier not a liquid water barrier?


texts: Combination Outlet/Switch - Two Wires Only

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I want to replace my regular bathroom lightswitch with a combo outlet/switch. Seems the wirebox only has 2 wires but i do see a 'mysterious' third wire in the back that is not connected to anything there. All videos i've viewed about installing combo outlet/switch requires 3 or more wires. My apartment building was built in the 1940s and our Super said the building wasn't wired with ground.
Anyone know if installing combo outlet/switch is a possibility with the wiring I have now?
Thanks!!


texts: How to clean up a large plaster penetration

texts:
Renovating a bathroom in our 1940's house.  Removed the current vanity and found this

I'm eventually tiling over this wall with 3x6 subway tiles.  Any suggestions on how to obtain a surface I can adhere some tiles to reduce the size of the opening?
Many thanks...current status


texts: How do I run a wire underground to an outdoor post lamp?

texts: I live in Geauga county Ohio. My question is three part. First what type of wire do I need to run from the house underground to a post lamp 100 feet away? Second,does it need to be in conduit and thirdly, how deep does it need to be?


texts:
I just bought a new Portable Fireplace and it can contain the propane tank inside it. I also bought some firestones to put in the fire area. The only problem with this is that if I want to turn on/off the fireplace then I need to lift up the fire place and then turn the propane tank valve on/off.

Which is do-able but a bit of a hassle. I was thinking to keep the propane tank valve always on. If I do that, I can still rely on fireplace valve to turn the heat on/off. The only potential problem with this is that my propane tank valve would be perpetually on.

This leaves me with one question: what can potentially happen if the tank is on. is it going to leak the gas or is it plain out hazardous to safety?


texts: Insulating Behind Completed Kitchen Cabinets

texts:
Recently moved into a new home that had just been renovated. The kitchen looks complete, but now that we are here we have started to notice things. In there it is always cold and drafty, and I know why now. The cabinets are all in and finished but in each of the corners there is a hole/opening to the empty space behind. I just found this out today when I looked under.

More photos
The openings are similar on both. One is 8" and 6" long and the other is 8" and 7" but just one picture to show the limited room. You have about 2" from the outter edge to the start of the floor piece - where you can reach in. Also, it is about 21" deep to touch the back of the drywall/gaps from the edge of the opening. It is about 8-9" to the corner parts underneath too. So not a lot of space to work with to fix the insulation/draft issues.
I am not sure why it wasn't all drywalled, but its not there and that allows to see the missing insulation. From the outside you can't see anything. The house was built in 1880 and is double layer brick, stucco and recently vinyl sided. Tearing up the cabinets and replacing the kitchen essentially to do it properly is not an option.
So, what to do? Thanks in advance.


texts:
Any ideas on why this one outside door may be growing what appears to be mold around the doorknob?
It doesn't happen on any other outside doors (or on the inside of this door) and after painting over it a couple of years ago, it's come back. Cleaning it off also seems impossible (have tried scrubbing w/ various things and nothing comes off).
Seems odd that it'd only happen to this door, but ultimately I just want to get rid of it and have it not come back.


texts: How to run duct work for basement dehumidifier?

texts:
Our basement is partially finished, approximately 50/50 in terms of square footage. It was used as a mother-in-law suite at some point by a previous owner.

The finished rooms are air conditioned/heated from our single central HVAC system. We also run a portable, 70 pint or so, dehumidifier in the "K" room

Our problem is that it is very humid down there and the air is pretty musty smelling. Humidity is typically 50% or greater in the summer months. In the winter, it drops to low 40s. We have white mold growing on a few items down there.

The current HVAC and dehumdifier aren't cutting it. We called in a basement/moisture company and they recommended a dedicated whole-house dehumidifier, ducted to just the basement. It was a $5k quote.

I am hands on, so I'd like to tackle this myself. I can save quite a bit of money, and it seems that the installation will be pretty simple, given that I have easy access to all the rooms.

I do not plan on integrating it with the existing HVAC ductwork. That will increase complexity and we may have an HVAC overhaul in the future.

I have attached a basic sketch of the basement and rooms. Finished rooms are BR, K and LR. There is a bath attached to the BR (not ducted, but there is a "window" to the unfinished portion of the basement.) I am planning on installing the unit in the unfinished space, near the existing HVAC. I have several ways to get the condensation out of the house from that location - pump outside, pump into washer stand pipe, pump into sewage pump.

I want to duct work the "K" room and another in the "BR," but I am not sure how to include the unfinished portion of the basement. We use the left most portion of the unfinished space for storage, so I would love to control the moisture level in that area.

Should my goal be to create a circular flow of air? One return in, say the K, and a supply in BR? Should the unfinished storage area have a supply or return?

Thank you!


texts: How can I repair/replace tires on a hand cart?

texts:
I have a few small hand-carts. One of them is the two wheel hand-truck/dolly, and one is a larger one on four wheels with an upright handle.

Both have leaky tires. Some of the tires have a slow leak that I need to pump up every time I need to use the cart, but one tire won't even hold air for 20 minutes.

Is it possible to find the leaks and repair them? Or is it better to replace the wheels?


texts: Reuse nail holes when replacing oak trim

texts:
I removed some trim boards and I used the technique of pulling the nail through the wood to avoid splintering the finished face (instead of pounding the nails back out).
This resulted in the heads of the nails enlarging the holes slightly.
Since the oak is old, it is as hard as cast iron.  Driving nails into it results in bent nails.   I could predrill holes but that is extra work!
Are there any tricks to reuse the existing holes?


texts: removing a transition strip between linoleum and hardwood

texts: I am going to tile an entrance way that is currently linoleum.  The transition strip between the linoleum and a hardwood floor is glued down, it appears that it may be construction adhesive, very strong.  How can I remove this strip without damaging the hardwood floor?


texts: Best strategy for video security, package or separate DVR?

texts:
I am considering setting up a video monitoring system for home security. This would include cameras mounted both on the house itself and in 2-3 locations on the grounds. I had originally planned to just get a "canned" system which has the 3 main components: cameras, cables and a DVR together. I have read it can get tricky getting extension cables for canned systems.

However, I have recently heard that you can buy the components separately, getting your own DVR and that this supposedly can be better because the canned DVRs may be mediocre quality. Supposedly by buying your own DVR you can get a much higher quality DVR for the same money.

Does anyone have experience with this to state whether it is better to get a canned security system, versus an a la carte approach?

Note: I am very technically capable (have electronics workshop etc), so simplicity is not a factor.


texts: could there be lead in the wood sealant on my 1930s table?

texts: I tested the badly peeling paint on my table and it came up negative for lead.  HOwever, the surface under the paint, which seems to be wood with some sort of sealant, tests positive.  It is a thin layer barely covering the color of the wood and is in perfect condition.  can i remove the paint and repaint it?


texts:
Fixing up a property, we found one outlet in particular that when the mouse sander or shop vac was plugged into it, they ran really slowly, like almost no juice. So i did what any contractor would do, I removed the outlet and tested it with a voltage meter. Here's what I found:
Hot->neutral: ~113V, 59.9 hZ
Hot->ground: ~113V, 59.9 hZ
Neutral->ground: ~0V

Now, just as I did, any of you reading this are probably saying to yourself that that seems totally normal. 113V at just about 60hZ is what it should be (approximately). But for some dang gone reason, plugging a device into this yields about 10-20% of what the expected speed would be. The only thing I could guess, and I don't have an oscilloscope to confirm, is that maybe the 110V waveform is screwed up somehow? But how and why? This is a single fam home. Someone please shed some light. Thanx


texts: How can I locate the water main entry point to my house?

texts:
I live in a single story all side brick ranch home in Austin, TX built in 1997.
I am planning to put a whole house water filter to the the main water supply line coming into the house from the water meter. Does anyone know where to look for? I have a suspicion that it might be coming in from the concrete slab, if this is true I do not have access to it. I might have to put the water filter at the cold line going into water heater, so only hot water is filtered. But I am surprised how a builder can build a property without giving a direct access to main water line for future enhancements like installing a water softener or a filter. Just wanted to double check if I am missing something here. Is it better to just hire a plumber if I need to dig into the slab for access to water line?

Update:
I am planning to dig along the exterior wall where I have the outside garden hose spigot, to look for the water line, if I find it then I will drill through the brick wall and bring the line to connect the filters.


texts: using deck screw instead of Yellow zinc construction screw？

texts:
Here in Canada I found the Deck Screws to be cheaper then the Yellow zinc construction screw. They are both Carbon Steel, and to my understanding, the coating on the deck screws are just more Corrosion resistance then the Yellow zinc.
So, why not/can I use deck screw everywhere? Indoor and outdoor? At least where construction screws are used?
#8 x 3" yellow zinc
#8 x 3" brown deck screws
#8 x 3" yellow zinc, non-ACQ
#8 x 3" deck screw "duradized"


texts: Why would changing ceiling fan speed cause an AFCI breaker to trip?

texts:
I recently installed 2 ceiling fans with Lutron combination light and fan dimmer switches. On both circuits, if more than a half second or so is taken when selecting the fan speed (that is, a delay while between the low-medium-high states) the arc fault protection kicks in and shuts down the branch. There is no issue if I move fast enough between states or while the fan is in a steady state condition. This happens on two separate circuits with two identical fans and dimmers.

I'm going on the assumption that while the switch contactor is being moved there is either a small amount of arcing inside the switch or there is some EMI being generated that is offending the AFCI.

Should I go ahead and move to a non-AFCI breaker or are there any alternatives that I should consider?


texts: How to connect one set of wire (+ ground wire) to outlet

texts:
So I've been going through the house and have been updating our outlets and it usually involved connecting two sets of wires and a ground wire. Today however, I ran into a set up that consisted of one set of wires (one black wire, one white wire and one ground wire) and am unsure how to proceed.

So here is an image I took of all of the wires that need to be connected to an outlet:

This was the original outlet, where the wires were inserted into the socket that I have circled in white. The white wire was connected to the left side, black wire was connected to the right side, and the copper wire was connected to the screw on the bottom.

And this is the outlet I am trying to update it with:

As of now, I have tried:

black wire to top brass terminal, white wire to top silver terminal
black wire to top brass terminal, white wire to bottom silver terminal
black wire to bottom brass terminal, white wire to bottom silver terminal
black wire to bottom brass terminal, white wire to top silver terminal

And of course, I had the copper wire connected to the grounding terminal on the bottom with each of these set ups, but none of these set ups seem to work.

Can anyone point out where I am making an error?

Thanks!


texts:
I just got new cabinets and am going to be installing LED light strips on the under-sides of the shelves for effect.
My experience with these strips in the past is that the adhesive backing is not very strong and wears out after a few months despite it having the 3M label.  I would like these installed well the first time, so that I do not have to mess with the cabinet lighting again for decades if possible.
I've considered adding a dab of super glue to points along the strip, but then I worry if I have to replace these in 10 years, I won't be able to remove the old strips.  On the other hand, I've considered a bead of silicone because it's clear and can easily be removed with a scraper.
What may be other options for fix the LED strips in place, other than super-glue? I need them to be fixed well enough in place to last years, but also for me to be able to remove them if necessary without ruining the shelves.


texts: How can I figure out why half my house is cold?

texts:
I just purchased my home a few months ago, and the AC was sub par during the summer.  Now that winter is here, the house is extremely uncomfortable (cold).

My furnace shoots hot air up to one main exit, then branches to the two sides of my home.

I discovered two hinges, one on each branch, one of which when I rotated it, provided air to one side of my home (as many may expect)

The other, no matter how much I rotate or which angle I rotate the lever, the other side of that ducts remains cold and no air is pushed to the other side of my home.

Is it possible/smart for me, as a new home owner, to try to dissemble the ductwork in the problem area to attempt to free the valve or any possible blockage?  One friend of mine told me to cut a hole in the side, use a coat hanger to try to open it, and seal it with duct tape.

EDIT

I noticed when looking at how I could take the duct off, there are no screws, just tabs.  Please see attached picture.

Any help is greatly appreciated by me and my cold family :)

EDIT 2

Things are still not working in our home.  I tried all different combinations of the two dampers open and close to no avail.  I also drilled a hole and used a rod to ensure the left (in the diagram) damper was open which it was.  There were no other obstructions in the way.

We are still hanging out in 65 degrees at max in cold, so please keep the suggestions coming.

Edit 3

Thanks to all that helped!  Unfortunately, even a pro could not identify the problem and we ended up replacing the whole furnace.  We are now a warm family again but after a hefty price tag.


texts:
I set up a two zone whole house dehumidifier system with 24v no/nc dampers, primary and secondary zones. the primary zone is controlled by a Aprilaire model 76 external control and the secondary zone is controlled by the dehumidifier itself, an Aprilaire 1870. The system is not connected to the hvac controls. I want to install a 110v auxiliary fan and I want the fan to turn on when the dampers energize. Can I use the 24v signal coming from the damper transformer to power a relay to energize a receptacle that the fan plugs into? I need the fan and dampers energized simultaneously. I have a white rodgers 90-113 fan control that fits in a 4x4 box. Can I use the 24V signal coming from the dampers? and how do I wire the white rodgers control to get 110v out?. I just need a automated on off switch. I don't want to fry the dehumidifier board or 76 controler.
Aprilaire support says I can use the 24vac going to the dampers for my 24vac IN at the white rodgers fan control. now I have 110v in and 24vac in,  so all I have to do is figure out how to connect the wires to the fan control to get 110v out.


texts: Two switches in same box, on different circuits

texts: Is it acceptable by US NEC standards to have two switches in a double wall box that operate on entirely different circuits in a late 50's house?


texts: What is the standard range hood clearance?

texts: What is the proper distance between the top of a kitchen range and the bottom of a basic hood fan?


texts: How to fix loud foghorn noise from shower when going from hot to cold water?

texts:
A new housemate likes to end her warm showers with a run of cold water.  We've noticed there is a very loud whining/foghorn noise after she switches from hot to cold water, for the duration of running the cold water.
I've read online about banging/pulsating noises when using hot water, but I don't think this situation is the same.
More detail: The housemate switches the shower settings from hot/warm to cold (the coldest setting) instantly, and our shower manages to change temperature with about a one second delay.  The noise usually begins after that second's delay (i.e. as soon as the very cold water comes on), and lasts the duration of the cold water usage.  It stops as soon as she turns the shower off completely.  The noise does not seem to come from the shower head but from the pipes system itself.  There is only a temperature knob for the shower, and no power setting.
Can anyone figure out what is going on and I'd be extremely grateful for quick fixes if there are any (aside from making her change her shower habit!).  Thank you!


texts: Why are all the toilets in my house running intermittently?

texts: All of my toilets in the house have started to run intermittently. Is there something wrong with the plumbing or could it be that the flapper has gone bad on all the toilets at the same time?


texts: What are these nail strips above and below windows?

texts:
There’s a new condo being built in a nearby northern Californian city and I noticed sets of nail strips above and below each window opening, over the plywood but under the vapor wrap.

What is the purpose of the nail strips? Do they add structural strength? Are they an earthquake code requirement? or are they part of the moisture mitigation system?

Ps apologies if I’m using the wrong terminology. I’m referring to the horizontal  metal strips that are nailed above and below each window visible in the photo above.


texts: Using Both Sonoff Wi-Fi Switch and Existing Wall Switch to Control Light

texts:
EDIT: Oops, I meant to say hot/neutral for (+)/(-). I'm not completely educated in this as you can tell. ^_^;;

I live in the U.S. I'm attempting to figure out if it's possible to hook up a Sonoff Wi-Fi switch to my house's light fixture, let alone if it's possible to do it with the existing wall switch. I know there's Wi-Fi switches you can buy that only require you replace the existing light switch, but they're super expensive, and the Sonoff is only $4. So I want to get this to work so I can use my phone to turn the light on or off no matter where I am in the world. I also want to still use the existing wall switch to control the light. But I'm not sure it's possible since Sonoff outputs two wires whereas a regular light switch just cuts off the (+) wire to control the light.

Here is the current wiring setup of one of my ceiling lights and its wall switch:

The AC's (-) connects directly to the light's (-). Then the AC's (+) goes down to the wall switch (a switch leg wire, I'm told it's called), then back up again to the ceiling and into the light's (+). This way the switch turns on or off the (+) to activate the light.

My plan, if it will work, is to mount the Sonoff box above the light's junction box in the attic. Power the Sonoff with the AC's (+)/(-) from the light box, then feed Sonoff's outputted (+)/(-) back to the light. Simultaneously, have the AC's (-) connected to the light like now, then still have it's (+) going to the wall switch and back to the light to turn the light on or off like now.

This is my wiring plan:

Would this wiring setup work to control the light with both Sonoff and the wall switch? If my diagram is correct, do I need the extra neutral wire going into the light, or is the one going through Sonoff enough?

Thank you!


texts: LPG tank leaking even when valve is closed

texts:
I have two LPG cylinders, the first one is 2 years old and the second is brand new.  When I hook either one or the other to my BBQ they leak even when the valve is closed.

Do you believe my BBQ regulator is the problem? If so, how can a faulty regulator make a closed cylinder leak?


texts: Can I install a GFCI outlet downstream of another GFCI outlet?

texts:
I have a circuit protected by a GFC breaker and I change a regular receptacle with a GFCI receptacle and now same time I have a trip breaker, is ok or not to do this???
Details:

Main GFC breaker is for a sunhouse and the GFCI receptacle is daisy chained to a shed 100ft faraway; on the sed I have 2 fluorescent lights and 2 receptacle on the load side to GFCI.


texts:
I need to drill a couple of holes in a very tight space. Material is stainless steel and shape is "Π".

I need to drill one hole on each inner wall to attach a springbar on it but it can't be done with a normal drill. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I am attaching a couple of pictures to make understanding easier.


texts: Is it unsafe if some three prong outlets don't properly test as grounded?

texts:
It's me again -- the pest ;-)

On the general inspection report for the house we're looking at buying, there's a note about the house's electrical:

  Some three prong outlets did not test properly grounded.  This may be an indication that the wiring in the walls is the older ungrounded type.  We recommend considering upgrading to grounded type wiring for safety enhancement.

How big of a safety concern is this? Is there any other explanation for faulty ground tests? What corrective action would be necessary?  I'm concerned that fixing this would require the entire electrical lines to be replaced...  If so, any thoughts on how expensive that would be?  I'm guessing quite a bit.

What's strange is that the report does mention that a ground is present on the main panal:

  Grounding system is present.  The grounding electrode was buried and not fully visible at the time of our inspection.  Wood screws are used to secure the dead front cover to the panel.  This is improper because they have sharp ends and can damage the protective coating in the wires inside the panel. We recommend installing proper screws.

The inspection report also recommended adding GFCI outlets.  Would that help at all?


texts: Low-profile clear cover for a basement window

texts:
I'm looking to protect some wooden exterior basement window casing so that I don't have to re-paint it so regularly.

I've seen window well covers like so:

...which could be useful except that this particular window is right next to a sidewalk that I walk by and drag garbage cans on frequently, so something that sticks out more than 6" or so from the wall will be an obstruction.

I searched for low profile window well covers, and I've found things like:

...which is low-profile in the wrong direction (low to the ground).

What is an easy solution that will not stick out far from the wall?


texts: What happens if I use the DC Voltage setting on an AC line? What about the reverse?

texts:
I have a run of those low voltage lighting systems in the hallway. The kind that have a two parallel exposed wires, with fixtures that clamp on in various spots on the wires and then take an MR16 bulb.

I am curious what the voltage is across these lines, but  I didn't install these, so I don't know if the transformer is outputting 12VDC or AC. I can't easily get to the transformer.

My multimeter has a single set of holes for voltage readings, then I select either VDC or VAC on the dial. What happens if I get this wrong? Is it dangerous? Assume the multimeter is rated for more voltage than I am going to find in this situation.


texts: How should I strengthen my floor joists that are too small?

texts:
I have a house that is 120yrs old. The floor joists on the ground floor are only 74mm x 55mm and spaced 350mm on centres. The brickwork that holds up the floor joists is pretty rough and doesn't have foundations, just laid directly on the ground. It is generally sound but the spacing is also 1.5m, so the span of the floor joists between the brick support is 1.5m.

As you can imagine there is quite a bit of bounce in the floor and I have repaired some of the joists by sistering some treated timber that I ripped down from 90mm x 45mm pieces. I have done this in the areas that needed it with stainless steel coach bolts. This is OK for the repair work but could full replacement be an option also?

I was considering putting in additional brickwork in between the current spans, but obviously this is a significantly different cost basis, not to mention not being able to do this myself, whereas the timber I can.

My question is, should I continue to sister the current joists, or consider another method? Obviously 74mm joists are not going to be the best to reduce bounce in the floor, but I can't increase the height too much without causing issues of height on door frames etc.

I was also planning on putting down two layers of 18mm ply in place of the current 22mm floor boards, glued and screwed, but not sure if I am overdoing it if I can use another method, not to mention the height issue also.

Room dimensions are 3.2m x 3.6m with the joists running along the 3.6m length.

Thanks in advance.


texts: Electric floor heat in basement without tile

texts:
I'm planning on putting electric floor heat in a daylight basement room which has a concrete pad. However, we don't like tile, so we'd like to use something else--preferably something that looks like wood. It could be laminate, vinyl planks, etc. The other complication is that vertical height is limited--90" from concrete pad to ceiling joists. We're in the Portland, Oregon area--the climate is cool, damp, and weird.

Has anyone installed (or had someone else install) a similar system (non-tile in a basement)? What did you use? How did it hold up? Did the manufacturer's directions (for both the electric heat and the flooring) recommend your approach?


texts: What exactly does 'Maximum of 8 No. 12 AWG Branch Circuit Conductors' mean?

texts:
I'm installing some recessed lighting, the lights are IC and wet location rated if that helps.

The plates on the junction boxes attached to the cans say' Mamixum of 8 No. 12 AWG branch circuit conductors rated for at least 90 degrees C permitted in junction box, 4 in and 4 out'. In one box I have a line coming in (hot, neutral, and ground), and two going out (hot, neutral, ground each) in addition to the 4 16(?) gauge wires already attached to the can (two ground, one hot, one neutral).

My question is, does '8 conductors' include the ground wires and the can's already attached wires? And, how can I adjust for using 14 gauge instead of 12?


texts: Can I make a raised flowerbed against my siding?

texts: I want to make a slightly raised flowerbed at the front of my house. The flowerbed would be about 9 inches high and made out of landscaping blocks for the front edge/wall. The issue is that it would be directly against the vinyl siding. Will this cause a problem? Is there a way I can do this properly by putting some type of plastic sheet between the dirt and the siding?


texts: How do I seal a downspout leak in my shed?

texts: I have a storage shed behind my carport.  A downspout from the roof of the carport runs through the shed, as seen in the picture.  The downspout drains ok (there was blockage in the past) but it leaks at three of the joints (two shown in the picture).  Is there some way to seal the leaks?  Or is it a partial blockage problem?  Thanks.


texts: How do I replace a broken light fixture?

texts: One of the claws on my 3-clawed light fixture, sheared clean off while I tried to pry it open to remove the dome in order to replace a light bulb. Do I need to replace the whole fixture? If so how do I remove it?


texts: Wiring a dusty chicken coop without risking a fire

texts:
I'm raising chickens for the first-time and building a coop for 12 birds. I have been told that the birds and their bedding can be very dusty, and I would like to make sure I don't create an electrical fire hazard.
My original plan was to use 4S boxes, either EMT or MC, set-screw fittings, regular receptacles and switches, industrial-style raised outlet covers, and a keyless lamp holder. Is that good enough?
My guess is "yes," because there will not be enough dust to create an explosion hazard, and while dust in boxes and outlets may ignite, the metal boxes prevent it from leading to a fire. But that's just an uninformed guess.


texts: Is it OK to have a GFCI downstream of a standard circuit?

texts: I would like to extend a standard electrical circuit to the outside with a GFCI outlet. Can I install a GFCI downstream? This would be easier than running a new circuit back to the breaker panel.


texts: Repainting damaged acrylic coating on my shower tray. Help!

texts:
I was cleaning something in the shower tray and I used a chemical which was petroleum based (which I didnt know), which caused the acrylic coating (I think its acrylic coating) dissolve.

I did a bit of research about repairing bathtubs/shower trays and it seems like nobody is able to achieve quality results by painting it, this usually involves using some kind of epoxy mixture, which cures for a very long time.

However, I have a different idea which nobody seems to be trying out...
What I want to do is:

Use coarse sandpaper to the damaged area
Apply filler (what filer?) to level the work area
Use sandpaper again (medium)
Paint white (spray)
Apply acrylic clear coats (spray)
wet sandpaper medium>fine>extra fine
Buff it with a cutting compound to get the gloss on

Questions:

Is there any problems with my approach (if any)?

Is there a better way of doing it?

Images of the damage:


texts:
This photo is of the underside of a La-z-boy recliner, and shows a rotating square bar (attached to the handle on the side of the chair) with a cam that has a couple locking positions as shown.  A pin rides along the outside of the cam, with springs that pull it into the resting position but can be overcome by a reasonable amount of intentional force (moving the wooden handle to rotate the bar) to change the position of the foot-rest.  The photo shows one end of the pin (the other side looks the same/symmetric) and the photo shows the pin in the "out" position where the setting can be changed.

This chair gets stuck in the "foot rest out" position, and no amount of force applied to the handle can get the pin to spring out so that this can rotate (the wooden handle would break first).  When I put my fingers in to manually move the pin it seems to extend the springs etc as designed, easily.  When the chair is tipped over on its side, it also works.  When the chair is right side up or upside down, it does not work.  Stuck in the open position, it's impossible for a limited-mobility person to get out of the chair without help (and then the chair must be laid on its side to get the foot rest back in).

I think the problem may be related to the wear on the metal as shown in the slight deformations around the locking position, that may create a deeper cavity or stronger lock than what may have been an original slight slope allowing the pin to roll out of the lock positions.

Is there a fix for this?


texts: How to cut 45 angles in quarter round shoe molding with circular saw?

texts:
I do not own a mitre saw, which seems like the best tool for cutting skinny quarter round shoe moulding at 45 degree angles.  While I can manipulate the angle on my circular saw, which worked very well for my baseboard 45s, the quarter round's small size seems to make it difficult.

Is there a carpentry trick/hack that would allow me to cut quarter round with a regular circular saw?  Perhaps some kind of a channel embedded in some kind of metal guide that the quarter round would go into and a flat top surface that the saw runs over.


texts: Meross 3-Way Switch installation where the first box connects the power source, light, and second switch cables

texts:
I'm looking to add a Meross MSS550 3-way switch.  My wiring matches this diagram.  The Meross switch requires a Live, Neutral, Ground, and 2 traveler wires.  It only requires the replacement of one switch, and I'm looking to replace the left switch in the diagram.
My question is if it's OK to rewire it such that the live Black wire from the source connects into the common terminal switch on the left?  Subsequently can the Black wire from the Right switch connect with the Black wire leading to the light.
Based on that answer, I'll have the 5 wires identified to swapping out the left switch with my new  Meross unit.


texts: If I need ~20A to power a device, but all the available circuits in the building are 15A tops, would I be able to power said device? Perhaps using a UPS and some tomfoolery?


texts: What are "backstab" receptacles/outlets?

texts: Several questions and answers on the site mention electrical outlets or receptacles with "backstab" holes (just a short while ago, here). I'm sure people in the US find that description to be obvious, but for the benefit of those of us from other countries, can someone give the definition and perhaps an illustration of a "backstab hole" vs "non-backstab hole"?


texts: How can I get replacement floorboards to match existing floorboards?

texts:
I've just moved into a 1930's house and have started work on restoring the original floorboards. I had to replace around one third in each room with new boards from a local timber yard.

After sanding the original boards down the colour still differs between the new and the old - the new being lighter. How can I go about making all the boards match? Should I use something like Danish oil on the new boards to darker slightly and then stain/varnish or would a darker (tan colour) wood stain on top make them all match or would they still be just a darker/lighter stain?


texts: How can I get 2X6X12's cut at a slight angle so I can build a level floor?

texts: Here's my question - I am turning a friends small garage into a guest room and I need to place a wood subfloor on top of the cement floor.  The room is 7.5' wide by 12' long and it slopes at a slight angle longways.  I need to basically cut the 2 x 4 x 12's into 12' long triangles but do not have a table saw.  What is the best way to do this?Can I purchase them already cut?  Do I need to take them to a specific place that will cut them for me?


texts: How do I fix a leak in a fiberglass water tank?

texts: There is a small crack in the overhead water tank, about 6 inches by 1 inch. The tank is made up of fiber glass. Is there any chemical that can be used for filling the crack?


texts: Attaching non-load bearing walls to steel I-beams

texts:
I'm preparing to remodel my basement.  A steel I-beam runs the length the of the basement with vertical steel columns spaced periodically across the span.  The beam is 5" wide and 8" tall.  I'm considering constructing a 2x4, non-load bearing wall directly under the beam but I'm not sure how to attach the 2x4 framing to the underside of the beam.

Here's a picture of the beam:

How can I attach a 2x4 wall frame to the underside of a steel I-beam.


texts: I have a new ceiling fan with a ground wire but no ground fron the metal box. Where can I attach the wire on the fan so it’s grounded?


texts: If a thermostat is connected to an air handler, which is connected to the main panel and has a ground wire, should one of the thermostat wires be connected to the ground?


texts: How to secure opening to prevent access?

texts:
We have a 14" space between our garage and our neighbor's block wall.
It leads to an alley in the back of our house.
It's just wide enough for someone to fit through if they want to enter from the alley.
This little opening was,  I believe, originally intended to allow water drainage away from our backyard. So, our backyard I kind of graded so that water exits via this side opening, and I need the ground area to still help with this function.
How do I secure this gap so that it prevents intruders from coming in AND allow me to access this area to remove debris and weeds?
This side of the opening is just the backyard. The other far side is my alley driveway.


texts: I have 3 wire service that was directly wired to my old stove.  The new stove came with a 4 pin plug.  Can I use this plug or will I need to replace it with a 3 pin to match the 3 wire service? Or should I wire the service directly to the new stove?


texts: How should I connect to an existing threaded ABS sink trap fitting?

texts: My wife got rid of the old sink and trap that was attached. Didn’t honk much of it, but as a novice, when I got under to attach a j trap, realized I had no idea how to connect to the pipe from the wall due to the connection.  Are there connectors that connect male/male?  Is that even what I need?


texts: My husband and I recently purchased a fridge that has an icemaker.  We thought this thing sticking out of our floor was a water line, but the installers said it was not.  When we inquired as to what it is, they said they didn't know.  We were hoping someone could tell us what this might be?


texts: Why do my LED Christmas lights glow when plugged into a light fixture via an adapter?

texts: I have an outside light that is controlled by a light switch inside. I took the light out and put a adapter to plug in an extension cord to run LED Christmas lights. When I turn the switch off, just the first strand of lights glows very faintly so I wonder is my switch used as the ground and the lights are finding ground at the tree they are hung at.


texts:
I am adding some fixtures to a current string of lights in my garage all running off of one switch.  There are currently two fixtures and I am adding four more.  I'm well within my load limits for the circuit.  My question is regarding running the new NM from one of the existing fixtures.  Can I run more than one length of NM out of one fixture?

As an example, can I have one run of NM running into a fixture as a fixture is currently set up and have it spliced into the light along with two runs of NM going to two other light fixtures instead of just one run of NM coming out as I have typically seen done?  It seems this would work fine as I think it would still just put each additional fixture in parallel on the circuit, but in looking for info about this I haven't been able to find anywhere that explains this as a way of doing it.

I can do a single run from the last current fixture to run these, but it would be easier to do it as described above if feasible.  I'm not sure if I am over thinking it.


texts: What is the proper way to drain a boiler's expansion tank?

texts:
The expansion tank is supposed to have some air in it, but I'm guessing that mine doesn't.  Let's suppose (i.e. I'm making this up in the hope that someone will correct me) that the tank should be half full of air and half full of water.  If I just open the tank's faucet, some water will drain out (let's say one bucket), but I think I need to ensure that I get a bucket full of air to go back in the tank.  I don't want to just decrease the pressure of the air bubble that's in there.

Or, do I keep the faucet open and drain several buckets?  Will the water stop coming eventually, or will I just be draining water from the closed water circulation system?


texts: Dye laminate which lost its color because of detergent

texts:
A bottle of detergent for toilets leaked on my laminate for 3 days.
The laminate became filled with it on a small area (less than 10cm²).
The floor lost its colors and it slightly tinted in blue (the detergent is blue).

What should I do to fix it?
Thanks


texts: How to check if painted plasterboard is fire rated?

texts:
UK answers in particular please ...

The underside of the staircase and main escape route in my new house is in my kitchen, and has my fridge immediately underneath. Is there an easy way to check whether the board on the underside of the stairs is fire-rated? Will the pink fireboard paper be revealed if I carefully scrape off some paint, or will the pink colour come off with the paint? And has it always been pink?

An added complication is that the house was built in 1960, so if the stairs are original, then this board may be asbestos, not plasterboard. Asbestos provides very good fire protection, but must  not be cut  or drilled into. For which reason, simply attaching an extra layer of fireboard onto the existing board may not be wise. (I'm assuming board attached with dabs of plaster isn't much use in a fire).

Background: I have recently learned that fridges are no longer the incredibly safe appliances they once were, but are now packed with flammable insulation and are using flammable hydrocarbons -- basically lighter fuel! -- as refrigerant. I'd move the fridge if there was anywhere else to put it, but there isn't. And yes, I do have plenty of fire alarms.


texts: How do I insulate the ceiling in my crawlspace?

texts:
I'm desperately looking for some advice on how to properly insulate the crawl space. I live in eastern Massachusetts where it has recently been in the teens and 20s for low temps in winter.
I have a large crawl space under my kitchen and 3 season porch ranging in height from 1' to 4' with no venting to the outside. I recently air-sealed the entire rim joist with an expanding foam and added a heavy mil plastic sheeting over the dirt floor, making sure to overlap and seal all edges. We also insulated the copper pipes in the space with closed cell insulation tubing and taped all joints to prevent the pipes from freezing. The kitchen is still very cold.
I would like to ideally insulate the space in between the floor joists and possibly the exterior brick foundation walls but are getting conflicting info on what to do.

Could use a poly spray foam kit, but the max R-values I have seen are only in the 7-10 range and its not anywhere close to warm enough outside to prevent it from failing. Everything I read says not to use apply when below 60 degrees or it will not cure properly. Its barely in the 30s right now! Also, the exterior walls are not all that clean and the foam might not stick.
Floor joists are not evenly spaced and range from 17"OC to 22"OC so batt insulation is going to be a pain.
Could use blown-in insulation but how do I get it to stay up there? Someone told me to use a plastic sheeting across all the joists with furring strips for extra support and then simply blow the insulation into each joist cavity, but I am worried that the plastic sheeting is too much of a vapor barrier and will cause mold inside the joist cavities. If the crawl space is already moisture sealed, am I OK? Do I need some sort of barrier up inside the cavities on the bottom of the floor?

Also, do I really need to insulate the brick foundation walls and will this show a big difference? Because the dirt is not evenly distributed and some areas are tight to get into, getting rigid foam board would be nearly impossible.

Please help!!!


texts: Can I replace a bit of a cinder block wall with wood post to support a deck?

texts:
We're in the process of replacing some deck boards, and are wondering if we should replace a section of the cement block wall. We're also not sure what the best way to go about it is. It's apparent from feeling where the block has deteriorated at the bottom, that it was not attached to the concrete floor. Replacing the block is one option. If we go that route, should we attach the blocks to the floor some how so that the same thing does not happen again?

What I was thinking I wanted to do, was remove the wall W1 in the picture and replace it with a wood post P1 that gets cemented into the floor. Is this a good idea? I don't think the wall is serving any function and all it's doing is keeping water trapped behind it, though I may be wrong?
We're In Minnesota so the snow and freezing  temperatures are something to consider.


texts: When I flush the toilet it leaks between the bowl and the tank. How do I fix it?

texts: This only happens when I flush and the leak is small.


texts: How do you fix/hide cosmetic cracks that keep reappearing/disappearing?

texts: The home (built in 1962) has cosmetic cracks that keep reappearing/disappearing, like an accordion that squeezes in and out.  Have already tried several methods to fix it, but none have worked. Any suggestions?


texts: How long can I leave a paint brush and roller sleeve submerged in water without damaging them?

texts:
I'm painting my fence (with water based paint) and have more to do tomorrow.

How long can I leave the paint brush in water until it's likely to be damaged? I think it's a synthetic bristled one.

How long until the roller sleeve is likely to be damaged? It has polyester fibre on it.

What about other types of bristle/fibre?


texts: Can I have a sub panel right below the attic access?

texts: I'm rewiring an old house where I've already installed a 50 amp sub-panel. Now the carpenter decided to put his attic access in the ceiling right above the panel is this permissible.


texts: Using a heater and toaster oven trips the breaker. Can an electrician fix this?

texts:
Using a heater and a toaster oven together, both about 1500w each, trips the breaker. It seems both are on the same circuit. Moving either appliance to a different location is not really an option.
Can an electrician do something so that this load can be handled? I want to get an idea of his work.. what will he do?


texts:
So my friend has a 20 x 20 roof deck that is laid on top of a concrete roof. The rood is pitched an there is drainage at the corner. The current deck is about 8 years old and is curling, splitting and coming up like crazy. The deck was there when he purchased the place. There are a couple things that come to my attention ...

The decking is laid on top of 2x4s that are laid on top of foam-core,
but the are laid flat rather than like joists.
The decking seams thinker than usual 1 1/2", I'm used to 5/4
The drainage looks suspect ... it's possible that it all drains in
one direction and at the end makes it's way across the roof to the
drain but I cant tell
It's painted on top an not on the bottom
It looks like they used non epoxy coated screws ... I see allot of
rust on the screws

I'm looking for some recommendations on how to re-build this I Thought perhaps of mimicking the same design but cutting gaps in the foam to allow better drainage, and using some better beefier epoxy coated deck strews. Also, currently the boards are spanning 2', so if I use 5/4 deck boards, I think I might have to span less. Something else to factor in is the sun ... it gets pretty hot up there, no shade at all.

Any advise or experience would be appreciated, I would hate to re-buiid this thing only to have the same exact problem. Please see photos


texts: Should I use pigtails for pass-through split outlet connections?

texts:
I have some outlets that are set up in a split circuit (separate lines for top and bottom).  I was going to replace the outlet to update it to a more modern looking one and found that there are 4 power lines coming in.  Power in and out and for each circuit (so 4 total black wires and 4 total white wires).  It is currently using both the screw and push-in method.

Is this proper wiring?  I've never seen both the screws and push-ins used.  It's also very tight in the box.  Is there a better way to handle this?  It seems like pigtails would be better but I feel there isn't enough space.


texts: How can I protect the wall of a simple wooden cottage from rain?

texts:
I have newly moved to a property with a small cottage. It is located in a hot desert climate, close to the sea, with occasional rain during the winter.

The cottage is made from relatively thin planks and has rain damage inside. It's cheaply built, but I would love to preserve it.

The water damage is mainly on the back wall, which is on the rainy side and leans against a stone wall which is about three feet tall.

The walls look like this. (This is one of the side walls.)

The damage from inside is visible in this terrible photograph:

It appears the water seeps through the cracks, both from the rain and perhaps from what moisture the stone wall is preserving.

What are good ways to protect a wall like this from water creeping in?

Covering it in tarboard from top to bottom seems to be an option (and is available) but I'm not sure whether it is ideal.


texts:
We have a split entry that is minuscule with stairs heading either up or down and a tiny landing. I would like to remove the wall separating the up from the downstairs (it may be the only wall that the stairs are attached to as one side of the stairway is a brick wall) and make the entry look a fraction bigger. How can I know if this is safe to do?

If not, can I remove the upper drywall and add molding to the studs to create a visually more open space? Would the studs be too large to be appealing? We have been remodeling our home for the last couple of years but the entry has me stumped. Don't want to weaken the house structure but it looks bad.

The house was built in 1968 so it is 48 years old.


texts: Can I make the contractor redo a roofing job because he didn't replace delaminated plywood?

texts:
My wife and I recently moved into our first home.  It's a raised ranch in CT that was built in 1967.  I've been doing a lot of "refreshing" myself inside; however, I hired a roofing contractor to replace our end-of-life roof.  It was a two-layer job, so we had to go with the rip-and-replace method.  The contractor I hired is local and well established (32 years).  He gave us a quote for the full rip and replace including new drip edge, vent boots, tar paper and 6 feet of ice blocker.  He also had as a line item an additional cost for any plywood that would need to be replaced.

The roof has what I assume to be its original 3/8" plywood sheathing and two layers of shingles (sounds about right: if you figure each roof lasted twenty years or so, the math works).  Regardless, we purchased new GAF Timberline shingles and he went to work.  The whole job took him (and his crew of two others) two days to complete.  He told me that all the plywood looked great, there was no rot, and nothing had to be replaced.  "Great", I thought.

That brings us to tonight. I went up into the attic to put some stuff up there and started looking around. It's fairly obvious to my untrained eye that the plywood is delaminated in some areas. I would've gladly paid the extra money to have the plywood replaced (even all of it if need be) to have a solid roof that would last 30–40 more years. I now fear we have great new roofing shingles over old crappy plywood that won't last. Our biggest fear is that if we eventually sell the house the inspector will say that the roof sheathing is no good and needs to be replaced.

I immediately placed a call to the contractor when I noticed this, however it was already 10pm tonight so I was unable to reach him. I assume he'll call me back, but I'm looking here for advice and guidance if anyone has experienced anything like this in the past.  I'm not sure what I should or could expect from him at this point in the game.

I did realize that I had never noticed the delamination in the attic before. I'm thinking that the driving of all the new nails through it, plus the foot traffic on the roof made it much more noticeable. It's not horrible (there aren't pieces of the outside laminate falling off), but there are definite spots where the nails have ripped chunks out, and there are areas you can press on and just feel the spaces between. It's also very flexible and spongy between the rafters, so much that you can deflect it with you hand pressing outwards fairly easily.


texts: Install tiles on top of laminate floor in kitchen

texts:
This is my remodel kitchen here done 5 years ago.

Notice that everything is new BUT the floor. As I decided not to do the floor at that time. But now it looks dated.

The kitchen floor is same level as my wood floor.

Questions:
1. Should I just put tiles on top of the laminate flooring? It will be a bit higher than the wood floor so would it look OK like that?

If I remove the laminate piece, what can I do to ensure the level is close?


texts: Re-mounting electrical switch box between studs after removing plaster and lath

texts: I am refinishing a room that had a gang of light switches mounted directly to the lath, between the studs. The lath is out, and drywall is going up next. I don't wish to change the horizontal position of the box, and I would like to avoid changing the box itself. I would like to know if there is a particular bracket I should mount the box to that stretches between the studs, or if I can just stretch a piece of scrap wood between the studs and mount the box to that (which seems technically comparable to mounting to lath, in my opinion).


texts: Can I use epoxy repair putty as a permanent fix for a screwed through water pipe?

texts:
Someone (cough cough) screwed through a water pipe under the floor boards in my mother's house. It's a 22mm copper pipe that I'm pretty certain is running hot water from the combi boiler.

I removed the screw and replaced it with a shorter and slightly thicker screw to plug the hole. The screw itself did a pretty good job of stopping the flow of water (to something like a few drips a minute). The pipe runs parallel to the floor boards but has a 90 degree turn a short distance after where the screw went in to the pipe, which means pulling the pipe up and getting a pipe cutter in to replace a section of the pipe would be a massive pain and involve me pulling up at ton of floor boards, which I really don't fancy doing.

So, I got some epoxy "Quick Leak Repair Putty", specifically this stuff:

I put two layers of this stuff over the screw and it seems to hold perfectly, no issue with water pressure and no drips or movement in the putty.

Here's a picture of the pipe with the putty:

It's been there for a week or so now (with some heavy use of the heating... it's cold) and it seems pretty solid to me. I spoke to a few people though and a plumber friend said in no uncertain words "Never, ever use that"... which seems to be the general consensus. I'd rather not rip up half the floor and I'd rather not pay through the nose for someone to essentially cut out a piece of pipe though.

So my question; How temporary or not is this fix?


texts:
Have gone through other threads to troubleshoot to no avail.

WORK DONE / SCENARIO
- Relocated ceiling box to hang new chandelier.
- Used existing wires that were long enough for move.
- Brand new electrical switch.
- 2 black / 2white in switch box, 1 white / 1 black in light box.

PROBLEM
- Accidentally connected hot wire to neutral wire at chandelier. Unfortunately the clear speaker wire type wiring threw me off.
- When I flipped the dimmer switch for first time, it sparked.
- Replaced dimmer with simple toggle, one-way switch.
- I now hear a slight hum at switch while light turns on for split second and it shuts off due to tripped breaker.

TROUBLESHOOTING DONE
- Tested with and without lights. Circuit trips on both.
- Turned off other lights on circuit. Circuit trips on both.
- Disconnected light fixture, circuit does not trip, and hot wire has current.
- And lastly, swapped light fixture for same (had ordered two identical  chandeliers) and the same problem occurs.

CLOSING COMMENTS
I was totally thinking I had screwed up the light with the short, but second chandelier has same problem.  And if the breaker tripped with the light disconnected, I would go down the route that there was a problem with wiring or ground, etc., but it holds.

I am stumped. Appreciate any thoughts and ideas!


texts: What is the cause of this short in the outlet receptacle?

texts:
My dishwasher was plugged into this socket, and then this happened, tripping the circuit breaker.

So I assume there was a short in the outlet, but how could that have happened?  I replaced the outlet and plugged the dishwasher back in, and all seems to be working well.
There was no sign of water in or near the receptacle, and I can't imagine a piece of metal or wire somehow got into the wrong place.  I'm now concerned it might happen again, but I have no idea where to check.


texts: Can I tape rather than glue buried PVC conduit to make pulling wires easier?

texts:
I am replacing flexible conduit buried slightly below the ground and attached to a septic  tank with much stronger rigid PVC pipes.  This conduit houses electrical cable.
I was planning on gluing all the joints in the "standard" way, but I have a significant concern that I won't be able to pull a replacement cable through the multiple tight bends I need to implement - and I know this cable will need to be replaced at some point.
Rather than gluing all the pipe joints my wife suggested taping them.  I like this idea as it means I can unwrap the tape and separate the joints to run the new cable.  I assume I would use electrical tape or something very similar.
Is this acceptable practice?


texts:
I'm planning to take down the rest of our interior, non used chimney in a few weeks. As I look at it more and more a joist, which has several others tied to it, appears to rest on the chimney, and the section below this point on the chimney is wider than above.

What do I need to do under the joist that rests on the chimney? (both during demo and permanently, afterwards)

I think I need a lally column under the end of the green dashed line. The problem is the only possible place to locate a jack post while I'm working is a very tight fit, where the 2 green double lines come together, just to the right of the chimney in the drawing. Other than putting a jack post there, my other thought is to try to remove 1/2 the width of the chimney first.

I may hire an engineer or just leaving the basement section, but am trying to figure out if it even seems possible first. Part of me thinks this is easy with a jack post and then lally column, part me thinks it's impossible.

Green double lines are 2 joists doubled. Black lines are single joists. Blue are still plates on block walls. It's an 8.5 x 11 inch sheet of paper, 1 inch per foot, so total area shown is 9.5 by 7.5 feet.


texts: Putting a breaker panel in detached home office half bath

texts:
I'm building a home office and have a question about placement of the main breaker panel. Ideally it will go in a half bath (toilet and sink only) in the corner of the structure. Reading elsewhere I see conflicting information on whether NEC allows a panel in a bathroom.

Before you answer, here are the pertinent facts:

This is an entirely detached outbuilding, 30 yards from the main house, supplied by an entirely separate utility meter.
This building will be 100% office space, "business use only" per the IRS. It does not in any way fit the definition of a "dwelling unit" and should therefore not be subject to those particular restrictions. It is comprised of a small entry area, one big office room, plus the corner half bath (what I would call a washroom).
The main service disconnect will be on the building exterior, opposite side of the wall where I hope to put the breaker panel.
We live in the boonies, outside any local ordinances or inspection requirements. I'm interested in adhering to code wherever possible, of course, but solely for safety and good practice considerations. I'm OK with varying from the more arcane, arbitrary specs when it makes sense.
I want to avoid putting the panel in the main office room because it will interfere with usability of that space (shelving/cabinets and clear space requirements).

Thoughts?


texts: How can I remove oil stains from a concrete floor?

texts:
I rented a home, and the garage floor is concrete.  It looks like the previous owner had a small car that dripped more oil than it retained.  It has been parked on multiple spots, so there are seriously large oil spill spots all over the concrete floor, and they have been there for many months (at least).

I am storing my bicycle and motorbikes in the garage.  Oil is very bad for you when it gets on the tires.  I do not want to have accidents because of this.

I think I have the the following options:

Clean the floor: The stains are not fresh, so kitty litter will not work.  What chemicals do I use?
Paint the floor: Will the paint stick?
Put down car mats: This seems like a decent option, except I will need to get multiple mats and cut them down so they do not slide around
Put down interlocking garage mats: Most sensible option, except it is really expensive.

I would love to hear about your experiences and suggestions in this regard.  What are good ways of handling my problem?


texts:
More specifically how to run cables from my Clearstream 2 antenna to the junction box and deal with grounding.  I plan on installing the mast and antenna on the south side of my roof so that it is facing the broadcast towers.  I'll need to run the coax to the north side where the junction box is.  Here are my questions:

The north side of the house has a gutter.  Can I run the cable over the gutter leave a drip loop and connect it to the soffit and then down the wall to the junction box/splitter?
I know I need a grounding block to ground the coaxial connection but do I need to ground the mast?  And if I do, how do I do about that?  I've yet to see any images of the mast for a clearstream with a grounding wire coming off of them.

The grounding rods for the house are already on the north side of the house so I have that going for me.  Any help is much appreciated.


texts: Door closer for a door that is not leveled to the wall.

texts:
I would like to put a door closer in a door. The problem is that the door is not like a normal door as the one below:

the door has no walls to its side or above it. It's like a door in the middle of a tunnel. Like this:

Because of this I can't use a normal door closer like the one in the first drawing. Do you guys know of any door closer that can be used in a door installed like this?


texts: What is the order of tasks when refitting a bathroom?

texts:
I need to completely refit my bathroom, including the following tasks:

Replace an old boiler (involves removing an immersion heater from the first floor, adjusting gas supply and changing pipe work)
Strip out and fit new units
Fit a shower (there is currently no shower piping - just a tap attachment in the bath)
Move a radiator
Plaster a damp/rotting wall
Tile the floor and walls
Install new extractor fan
Hang a shower curtain

I have no idea which order to tackle the tasks. Should I tile the floor and walls before fitting units? or do you tile around fitted units?

Appreciate any advice.


texts: How do I tell if my kitchen range space is set up for gas?

texts: I have a gas line to my house for the furnace but need to know how to tell whether I can hook up a gas range in the kitchen without having a gas line installed to the spot where the range goes.


texts: How to get heating system working again?

texts:
We have an oil-fired boiler that does both the hot water and the forced hot water baseboard heating system.

It was unusually cold and windy last night here in north-central Massachusetts.  I turned down the thermostat before going to bed as usual.  Apparently one or more blockages froze in the main floor loop during the time it was cooling down before the thermostat called for heat again.  By morning the circulation pump was constantly running, but nothing was flowing thru the main floor loop.  The upstairs loop was working fine.

Using hair dryers and a heat gun, I think all the pipes were warmed to melt any ice in them.  This also happened 25 years ago, and at that time I created small pinhole taps at a few points in the loop where it is accessible in the basement.  These were for relieving pressure, and to see where the ice blockages were.  I opened these taps, and initially just a short burst came out.  After clearing the ice blockages, a steady stream came out as expected.

However, after a little while water stopped flowing and air was getting sucked into the one tap hole left open about midway thru the loop.  Now both loops seem to not have water in them, and the top floor is no longer getting heat (the loop that never froze).  I can see that the circulating pump running constantly, and no water comes out of the valves when opened just above the zone valves by the boiler in the basement.

Two questions:

How do I get the heat working again?

How is water supposed to replace any leaked out of the heating system, or get in there in the first place?  I assumed there was a one-way valve someplace that lets normal house water into the heating system, but apparently not.  I looked at the spaghetti plumbing by the boiler and think I figured out what each pipe does, but I see no obvious connection from the water system to the heating system.  Perhaps this is hidden inside the boiler unit?


texts: Hot Water Knob Drips When Cold Water Is Turned On

texts:
I have an older shower set-up the 3 knob one (from left to right - hot, Diverter, cold).  I just replaced the valve-stem for all 3 due to leaking in the wall (where the valve stem connects to the "house" plumbing, sorry in advance for my lack of terminology).  Now, I do not have anymore leaking in the wall (I verified before posting this), but I have 2 strange things taking place:

  1) The hot and cold knob twist more than triple what they did before I replaced the valve stems.  (Water pressure seems to stop at the original location, but the knobs are allowed to continue to twist)
  2) When the cold knob is twisted, water will drip from the hot knob

What is my plan of action for remedying this?

EDIT
This is an image of the valve stem that I got for my brand at my local box store

EDIT 2

I can confirm the water is NOT leaking from either of these locations (both "behind the wall")


texts:
Just installed the Sense / Square D Wiser Home energy monitor. The instructions state to leave the energy monitoring box somewhere inside the main panel. My main panel is a bit crowded with ground wires directly touching the sense energy monitoring unit. Any issues with this setup or anything else I should be concerned about?

In case anyone is wondering, the extra black and red wires that are clamped are from a generator inlet port. They are going to the first breaker on the right which has a generator interlock kit installed to prevent backfeeding to the utility company. I added the wires into the clamps so I can also measure when I'm running off of generator. This gives me the advantage of knowing precisely how much load I'm using and to keep it under the generator's limits.


texts: Why are there three cables coming into my ceiling fan box?

texts:
I'm working on a new ceiling fan install.  I pulled out the old light fixture (traditional fixture) with three sets of wires coming into the box (three hot, three neutral, and three grounding wires).  There is only one light switch, so why are there three sets of wires?
One long hot wire was connected to the hot wire receptor on the fixture, two shorter hot wires were held together with a nut and not connected to the fixture, and the three neutral wires were held together and ran to the neutral receptor.
I tried to copy this after I installed the new fan outlet box and support bar, however, I can't get the power to turn on to the fan.  Here are the installation instructions that I followed to a "T".
Any help to solve this problem would be much appreciated.  Thank you.

This is how the wires were bunched with the old fixture.  The white wires were combined.  I think that the long black wire is coming from the box because it is coming in from that direction.

The one on the left is connected to the fan, the one on the right is not.

Here is how I connected the white wires for the fan.


texts: I own a recently built smart home. Last weekend I added LED under cabinet hard-wired lights using wires installed during the build. I changed out the regular switch with a Lutron dimming switch. The switch is on the same circuit as the overhead kitchen lights. Now my overhead kitchen LEDs will dim to almost nothing when I turn their switch off (not a Lutron switch) and have to turn the Lutron switch on and off to get them to completely turn off.  Any ideas as to why and how to correct the issue?