texts: Replacing 12 fixture lights with LED pot lights. Took out all of our old lights and installed the first 4 pot lights and they worked. Installed the next 8 and would have a 5 second delay before the lighting circuit would trip after all the lights turned on. Disconnected those 8 lights, so that we had the original 4 that worked and again 5 second delay before they would trip. 11 watt lights which is way less than the bulbs we had in there before so it shouldn't be an overloaded circuit. Switched out the 15 amp breaker with a new one and would still get that 5 second delay before it would trip. Checked all the wiring at the switch and it was all good. Does anybody have any suggestions on what it could be?


texts:
I need to seal-coat my driveway.

I need to fill hairline to 1/2" cracks first.

I tried the Home store liquid "crack filler" and was extremely disappointed in the results. (it shrunk and looks horrible)

I saw a 3 man team filling cracks as shown in the picture.

What do municipalities use to extend the life of their asphalt?

Can I buy the same product for my driveway and seal-coat over it?


texts:
I had a water leak in subzero weather this winter. I shut off the main water supply. After I repaired the leak I  turned the water at the meter back on but he water kept going to fill up water heater. I ran it over 10 minutes but it never quit trying to fill it. I thought I had another leak, so I turned the water supply off again.
Does it take that long to fill the hot water heater, Or Do I Have Another Leak? (I don't understand filling up the hot water heater would then supply cold water to the rest of the house.)
How does it get to the rest, after the hot water heater, through which lines?
Please help.  (I am thinking about turning the meter back on and letting the water run for an hour or so but I don't want $5000   water bill without the problem being fixed!)


texts: Will Galvanized Steel React with this Ductwork?

texts: I plan to use a galvanized steel patch on this ductwork. Will it react with this ductwork? I'm not sure what it is made out of. Is this ductwork galvanized steel? It's ductwork from a house built in 1967.


texts: How do I get started removing this wood frame?

texts:
This is a frame inset into this old leaded-glass window I'm going to restore. It is nailed into the original frame, and I can't get to any of the nail heads to get started. It's important that I don't damage the original wood, but the inset frame is junk.

Strategies?


texts: Moving and covering light fixtures in bathroom

texts:
I currently have 2 small light fixtures in my bathroom on either side of my mirror above the sink.  My plan is to add a new fixture above the mirror and patch/cover the existing fixtures.  It's first floor, so I have no access above.

1) What is the best way to wire the new junction box for the new fixture above?  Should I just continue wires to the new fixture from one of the old side fixture boxes and just leave the wires on the other old side fixture box?

2) What is the best way to get the wires to the new box without ripping out a ton of drywall?  I'd imagine I'd have to drill through a stud to get to the new fixture.  Or am I going to have to cut out extra drywall just to get my drill in there and do work?

3) Once the new fixture is in, are there any special codes/considerations I should be aware of to cover the old boxes and drywall over them?


texts: Is CSST piping and water piping in an inaccessible crawl space against code?

texts:
The CSST line that feeds our upstairs dryer with gas, the water pipes for the washing machine and some electrical wires run through an inaccessible crawlspace in the basement. When I went to turn the dryer on for the first time I smelled gas coming from the opening. After turning off the valve, I realized the area is not big enough to reach into, and I can't even see where the CSST line ultimately goes. I'm surprised neither myself or the inspector noticed this during inspection a month ago.

The home is located in Philadelphia in case that has implications on building code. The crawlspace shown in attached images (Note: the CSST piping is white because the mold remediation company sprayed some mold-resistant paint on the joists.) The opening is about 1 foot wide and maybe 6-8 inches tall.

I did some research on the gas line code, and from what I can tell this area may fall into the definition of a "concealed area" as defined in Section 404.5 of the IFGC International Fuel Gas Code (https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IFGC2012/chapter-4-gas-piping-installations).
That section states:

  Portions of a piping system installed in concealed locations shall not have unions, tube fittings...

I can't be sure but I would imagine there is a union in there where the CSST connects to a valve in the floor.

Additionally this Philadelphia Gas Company (PGW) document states in Section 3.3 on P.16 (http://www.aspephila.org/_pdf/PGW%20Piping%202010.PDF):

  Minimum clearance of 4 feet should exist in the area where piping is located

and

  All piping should be installed in such a manner that it will be accessible for maintenance

To investigate and possibly have the gas line repaired, I am going to need to demo a portion of this wall to gain access to the gas, plumbing and electrical wires.

So my questions are:

Is this against code (gas piping, plumbing or electrical)?
If so, is there any way I can hold the home inspector accountable for missing it during the inspection?


texts: How to mount an exterior light that doesn't cover the junction box

texts:
I'm trying to mount this light on the exterior of a house, but it doesn't cover the hole like the existing lights do.

In some places there's an existing light that's mounted directly to a junction box, and in others, I'm installing a light for the first time.

How should a light like this be mounted in a way that's up to code and prevents water from entering the house?


texts: My daughter decided to get a little artistic in the bathroom and colored the grout with yellow crayon. Does anyone have a simple way to clean this out?


texts: What could be the source of a tapping type sound coming from my upstairs air ducts?

texts:
We bought a new house a few months ago. I do not recall hearing this noise in the summer, when the AC was running, but then I wasn't in this room that much so I am not sure if it was happening.
We have a 3 floor house. HVAC system is in the basement. In the top floor, there are two air ducts right next to each other, both columned by dry-wall. One goes up to the attic and I assume feeds the air to the other rooms. The other is the return. The other end for both is in the basement.
The space for the duct is next to my office room.
When the heater is running, every now and then I hear a tapping noise coming from the duct. If the heater is off then no noise. Again, not sure if the noise would be there with the AC on.
It sounds like if a wire was tapping against something but there are no wires inside the ducts -- not that I know of.
I cut a 4" square into the drywall in front of the return duct and the sound is definitely coming from near/in/around the return duct.
There is no insulation around the return duct -- so its just hollow space.
I don't mind doing some work to identify the root cause but I have no clue where to look/start.
One person claimed it has to do with the lack of insulation because the air duct gets hot and is tapping against the wood beams. Could it be that? Any cheap fix?
I am including some pictures too.


texts: Safe & chemical free way to clean AC coils?

texts:
My ac system last had regular maintenance/inspection 9 months ago. Normally I have it done every 6 months but due to coronavirus the company I have a warranty with isn't honoring their warranty.  And now my electrical usage is about 2x what it should be (according to the power company comparing my usage to my neighbors) and I think the AC is why. I'm located in Florida where it's usually 90+ degrees almost every day. I did an experiment where I covered the sun facing windows in my home and the electrical usage went down by half.
My concern with cleaning the coils is I was told by a tech to never use any chemicals in the AC, not even bleach. Most techs in the past told me you can use bleach or vinegar but this guy told me not to listen to them because any chemicals can damage the coil.
I suppose it's possible that the tech is both right and wrong. Maybe chemicals are always bad but you have to use them to clean the thing?
Can I just toss a lot of boiling water on it and let the gunk go down the condensation drain? I know how to clean a clogged drain line but are there any problems with using boiling water? Or do you have other suggestions?


texts:
Yesterday, I had an issue with our electricity in our house. All power points in a kitchen, bathroom, and a small room suddenly stopped working, but not other rooms. I opened a fuse box to check if there were any broken wires, and I found one fuse was disconnected. It seems that it was burnt as I could see black burnt marks nearby.

My question is that what might have caused this fuse blow? I have a housemate who uses a small electrical heater which uses 2000w in his room, and he leaves it switched on during the night. Does it have something to do with his heater or it sometimes happens as time goes by?

Thanks in advance!


texts: Can this outlet be used with an adapter for generator power?

texts: Greetings to anyone who can help: can this (halloween-type face outlet) be used to plug my generator into the house for backfeed power? I'm guessing I'll need an adapter, if such a thing exists? I'm trying to avoid buying a 100' cord...this one is perfectly placed on the back patio wall under cover. Thanks for any help]1


texts: Is installing a tankless water heater outside a good idea?

texts:
We currently have a gas water heater in our laundry room (part of a converted garage, on slab). The hot water and gas are (obviously) running to it with no problem.

When I was getting a quote for a tankless gas water heater, the sales rep looked at the setup and decided we should put it outside by the gas meter instead, on the opposite end of the house.

This is slightly nice, since it will be closer to the bathrooms and they'll get hot water faster. However, I'm concerned about the level of work required to put it out there. They'll need to drill through the brick wall into the crawlspace to access the hot water lines, cap off the gas and water lines in the laundry room, and run the control unit wires through the crawlspace up into an interior closet -- instead of simply taking out the existing tank, putting the tankless unit in, and sticking the controls to the laundry room wall. I'm also surprised that having the heater outside makes sense from an efficiency and durability standpoint (we're in South Carolina, a mild climate, but even so).

Does it make sense to put the tankless hot water heater in a complete different place like that, or is this plan unnecessarily complicated?


texts: Is there a building code for shower tile? (CA)

texts: The folks at Lowe's told me not to place tile on top of tile, but it seems like the shower in the home I just bought has 2 layers of tiles. Is there a code for that? Or just a "suggestion" not to have 2 layers of tile?


texts: Should I staple new wires to studs in an existing wall?

texts: I have some wires that were originally pulled through a wall from a junction box to an outlet.  The drywall is off the wall right now and I'm doing some work on the wiring.  Would best practice be to staple the wires inside the wall or is that going to make it harder for someone in the future to replace the wire in the wall?


texts: Defiant Electronic Deadbolt does not retract fully

texts:
Hi I installed a Defiant Electronic Deadbolt and for the past couple weeks it is not always opening properly. What happens is the bolt goes to retracts about 1/2 way and sort of sticks. Eventually the door opens and of course the lock itself errors and throws the red led.

Any Ideas? I know it was an inexpensive lock but still do not want to swap it out if there is a simple fix.


texts:
I need to increase the cu/in (inner space) of a switch.
So I'll switch from 1 gang to 3 gang, and place the switch back in.

After replacing a 1-gang electrical box with a 3-gang box, am I allowed use the same 1-gang wallplate and drywall over the rest of the box?

Basically It would cover with drywall, the other 2 "gangs".
(I would have to recess it in more, and use longer screws)


texts: What could be the cause of Water running in Condo?

texts: One night about a month ago I was watching TV when I heard a loud metal sound followed by the sound of surging water.  It was so loud and unsettling my dog started barking.  I went next door to ask my neighbor, who had just moved in, if she was running her washer, which is upstairs.  Or taking a shower.  No answer.  I hear water running in the pipes closer to her wall.  The HOA management people had their Mr. Fixit man come out.  He looked for signs of water close to the dishwasher and under the stairs.  He listened to the walls and said he could hear it where I said it was. He could not find any appliance running. Their next step is to have a plumber with a listening device come out to find the leak.  The water sound continues.  Still not telltale signs of water buildup anywhere. In addition to the constant sound I am not fretting over the possibility I may have damaged the pipe when I tried to put in my molly bolts to hang a small cabinet.  Is that possible?  The condo was built in 1968.


texts: Is it necessary to replace a jamb when replacing a door?

texts: I have a standard 36" steel exterior door that rusted through along the bottom . It was new construction 23 years ago. The jamb looks good ; can I just put in the door only ? The brick -mold on one side has a couple inches of dry-rot that I plan to make a custom piece to fill in ( The local yards do not have the same style brick-mold ).


texts:
I have a standup shower that has a hose attachment, sort of like this one that screws on to the shower arm coming out of the wall. Unfortunately due to our hard water I am unable to unscrew the attachment any longer as sediment has built up all around it.
The faucet is turned totally off (100%) but water is still dripping out of the shower head (its been weeks). This tells me the leak isn't with the hose attachment, but in the shower arm, or rather, the valve inside the wall.
I would like to cut the hose attachment off and cap it. Later this spring I'm going to tear the whole shower out and replace it, but for now I just want to get the leak to stop. I imagine that  once I start cutting the shower arm, water will start trickling out, and there's no way to tell how much there will be.
Should I tear out a panel of wall in between the faucet and the shower arm and see if I can replace the valve? Or is it probably OK to cut the arm in between the wall and the shower head, deal with a little bit of water trickling out and find a way to "wet cap" it somehow (place a cap and glue it on/seal it/etc. while water is still coming out)?


texts: A/C compressor connection to the house not sealed anymore. How do I fix it?

texts:
The A/C compressor that sits outside our home had a sealed connection to the house (pretty new, 3 years old), and it seems a "gasket" was created with silicone.  However, the soil underneath the compressor started to shift a bit, and so the compressor now sits slighly farther from the house.  We have fixed that, so it's not moving anymore, but now the A/C hoses connecting to the house look like this:

Should I simply put some duct tape around it to seal it again?  Should I remove the silicon and create a larger silicone gasket?  Not sure if this is a big deal, and we haven't seen any unwanted side effects, but I want to avoid any long-term problems.


texts: Pipe seized to inaccessible coupling - how to attach a new pipe?

texts:
I have updated this question with additional detail - it is not a high-pressure steam environment; it only operates at 115 PSI.

Apologies if this is off-topic here. It's less "home improvement", more "industrial breakdown", but the subject is pipework which may be similar to what this site covers - I'm hoping a steam pipe expert might see this here. Reading the "what's on topic" page though, and based on the plumbing tag, I think it's on-topic, but I have also posted it to Engineering.SE as was suggested.

A friend of mine that doesn't use the internet much runs a commercial laundry. They use an old 'Manlove Tullis' laundry calendar (c. 1980) that looks like this:

(click to enlarge)

I couldn't even find any photos on Google Images of a roller iron of this type/age; I had to dig through some photos of his factory I had.

Essentially, it is a machine with 3 rollers (2 visible in the photo) on a hot plate. Garments (e.g. bedsheets) go in wet, and come out ironed flat, and dry.

The hot bed runs on steam fed by 6 pipes (2 for each roller) underneath the machine, coming from a big boiler.

A couple of days ago 1 of the pipes broke off/burst under the machine with wear & tear over the years; where the pipe is joined by a coupling to the hot bed.

It is possible that over the years with repeated super-heating and cooling some metal fatigue has crept in, or it became so brittle that it finally failed.

After allowing the machine and the pipes to cool down for a day, he went under the machine to try to fix it; but the pipe is seized to the [possibly brass] coupling. The coupling affixes to the hot bed and it appears it cannot be removed because it is both seized and in an inaccessible part of the machine. It is a 22mm coupling.

The pipe is steel, and could be cut off and a new one joined by welding it or something, but because the working area is only 50cm in height at most, and the machine is 10ft x 15ft / 3m x 5m, there are some health & safety issues with operating a welding torch under there.

An additional coupling could be added, but this introduces another mode of failure.

He has just installed a copper stop end, temporarily, in the hope that it will be possible to use the machine with 2 out of 3 rollers functional come Tuesday.

The boiler operates at 8 Bar / 115 PSI — therefore the laundry calendar also operates at 115 PSI. From reading online I understand that the pipework is more than adequate. It is also regularly inspected and serviced.

My question is:

How can we get this pipe off and a new one on? Any above-board temporary fixes would also be of interest.

The person I'm posting this question for is extremely knowledgeable on the subject, but for the first time I've seen, he's stuck here. His usual engineer doesn't know either.

I've found the phone number for 2 companies that could possibly help, but it's currently a long weekend in the UK, bank holiday Monday coming up... He has called a specialist commercial laundry engineer but he unfortunately doesn't have any parts for Manlove Tullis machines.

He's given him a phone number for another engineer that might be able to give him some advice, but he can't call him til Tuesday when businesses reopen. He is also some distance from us.

Another engineer he has spoken to has said that it either needs to be welded or a proper coupling added; but it cannot be cut off because it is inaccessible.

Are there any plumbing / steam engineering experts on here that can help? I'll offer +100 bounty when the option is available in 10 hours.

Also if a UK expert in laundry steam operations sees this and you think you can fix this on-site for him, this is something he is interested in. He understands there is a cost involved, but the machinery is currently down and needs urgently repairing.

I will attempt to get a photo of the seized pipe/coupling on Monday when I go to his factory; although he tells me I will struggle to get a photo.


texts: Aprilaire 600M Wiring to Honeywell TH8321 Stat

texts:
Very rookie DIY guy here...I have installed an Aprilaire 600M but can't figure out how to wire it.
My thermostat currently is using the U1 port for a normally-closed damper on a fresh air intake.
I wanted to connect the humidifier so that it would use the humidity control of the thermostat but (I don't understand how that would tell the humidifier what RH% to max out at.)
At this point I'm just looking for the simplest way to get this humidifier working because our house is at 14% humidity.
The Orange U1 wire at stat connects to the red wire of this fresh air damper . The white wire of damper connects to a 20VA transformer in the furnace (yellow wire).  The black wire at STAT U1 connects to the thicker blue thermostat wire (2nd pic)
Aprilaire 600M came with it's own 24 volt transformer if I need to use it.
Thanks in advance for any help these two solenoid wires are all that's keeping us from comfort!!


texts: I have an outdoor shed that was powered with a single 15A circuit by the previous homeowner. I'm trying to rewire it to carry three 20A circuits. It's about a 100' run from my main panel via 1/2" schedule 40 PVC. I would like to run (7) #12 THHN for 3 hots, 3 neutrals, and 1 shared ground. I would terminate at the shed with a subpanel, three 20a breakers and a ground rod. From what I understand, seven #12 wires should work fine in 1/2 schedule 40 PVC without derating. Am I missing anything or good to proceed? Alternatively if I only wanted two 20amp circuits, could I run a multiwire branched circuit with 2 hots on opposite phases, a shared neutral, and shared ground to a disconnect at the shed without worrying about a ground rod?


texts: I'm trying to install a storm door on the back of my house.  The house is older and the door jam seems to have been modified to an odd width on the exterior of the house.  A 36" door will be too large and a 32" door will be too small.  The actual width is around 35-5/8".  Any idea's on how to add additional framing which will accommodate a 32" door? Thank you.


texts: How to work around bowed king stud for a window frame?

texts: I'm framing for a new window in an existing wall, and the left king stud bows out slightly. How can I fix this? My current plan is to place the new (straight) jack stud against the king stud, and add a shim between the two where I'm nailing them together to keep the jack stud straight. This would result in a small gap between the king stud and the jack stud, but otherwise both pieces should continue to function as expected. See the picture below for the king stud, I added a straight red line to make the bowing more obvious.


texts:
I have a brand new window and it seems like it could slide a little smoother if it had some lubricant in the rails. It does open fine but it feels like it could be broken in more.

Is there any lubricant I can use in the rails to make it slide better?


texts: How do I add grip to concrete sealer after it is already applied?

texts: Last fall, we had H&C Colortop Solvent Based Concreat Sealer 250 applied to a textured concrete driveway and walkway. It look amazingly better and have gotten many complements from the neighbors, but now we are finding out that when it is even slightly moist, it gets incredibly slick. At times, it is almost like walking on ice. What is the best way to add grip to this surface?


texts: Trying to Consolidate Two Water Lines + Tie In a Softener

texts:
I'm trying to determine the best way to simplify a mess I've inherited.  I've included an extremely rudimentary (and not to scale) sketch for reference.  If you're wondering how it arrived at this state, I'd be more than happy to explain, but for now I'm trying to keep it simple.
Basically, coming from the well are two main lines - one is 1.5" black poly and the other is 1" PEX.  The poly line is the original line that went straight to the utility room, then branches off to all of the various terminations, including the toilets.   At some point in the past, the separate PEX line was brought off the main and used to supply only the toilets; the toilets were disconnected from their original supplies, but all of the plumbing was left intact.  On this separate toilet line is a filter/softener set up.
What I would like to do is put everything back on one line, have that run through the softener, and reconnect the toilets to their original plumbing.  I was hoping I could either cut out the 1" PEX line altogether and add the softener to the poly line in the well house (Option #1 below), or tie the 1" PEX into the poly line in the crawlspace (Option #2 below).
My questions are these:

Will either of these work?
Which one would be best?
If the softener can be added into the poly line, what would be the best way to do this fitting-wise?
Is there anything I'm missing or do you have an alternative?

Thank you in advance for any help.  I have some basic know-how, but I just wanted some advice on this before I get into trouble.
Regards,
Nate


texts: Why are top-mount joist and purlin hangers shorter than actual lumber dimensions?

texts:
Looking at the load tables for various products, purlin hangers are often shorter than the actual size lumber they're supposed to hang:

USP JPF
USP HL

The size difference seems more consistent at lower dimensions. For instance, 2x4 purlins are 3 7/16" high and 2x6 purlins are 5 3/8" high.

Why is this? Won't the joists end up higher than the header? Is something supposed to go on top of the header to offset this so the subfloor is level?

Edit

I'm using purlin hangers to hang floor joists inside my walls, which seems to be a suggested usage of these products.

Perhaps others can put this problem better than me. Check out the reviews and question on the USP JPF at Lowes.

Edit 2

Just to be sure we're all on the same page, this is a purlin hanger being used to hang floor joists. Only difference is I'm using solid sawn joists rather than i-joists.

Perhaps the foam tape supposed to make up the difference?


texts: Installing electrical sub-panel at future above-ground pool

texts: Sorry to beat a dead horse with this subject but I'm a little unclear when it comes to the issue of installing additional ground rods. So here's my situation....The pool has not been installed yet but I've run an 8/2 UF-B line (not live yet) that will run about 130-140' from the house breaker panel to a 2 circuit sub-panel at the pool location. One circuit will be dedicated to the pool pump and the other circuit will be for general use since the pool is so far away from the house. My general use outlet box is connected about 6" away from the sub-panel via water-tight conduit and a GFCI outlet. The pool pump circuit will be connected with the same type conduit and GFCI outlet but will be about 6' from the sub-panel. Both outlets will be more than 5' from the edge of the pool. So, besides my question of needing an additional ground rod, if not, is the 12 gauge ground in the 8/2 line sufficient back to the house panel?


texts: What are these "GENTEX" things on my walls?

texts: My condo has these devices installed in each bedroom and in the living room; but I have no idea what they're for.


texts: Will this fence provide good wind resistance? (And is it a correctly built shiplap fence?)

texts:
This fence was built with angled boards. The guy who did it said that would help with wind resistance. The fence is about 90 feet long, and the part of it down the fence line gets hit pretty hard when there are heavy winds. (The area closer to the camera in the first pic is sheltered more because of the houses.)

The second image shows how the boards were angled. The fence is about 7 feet tall.

The posts are metal.

Will this style of fence help with wind resistance? I'm not sure how angled boards, versus boards that are side by side, will make much of a difference, since the wind will be pushing against the fence no matter what. There are no gaps to allow air through.

Edited because someone said in the comments that it looked like he was building a shiplap fence, but after looking up shiplap fences online, it doesn't seem like it was a correctly built one. This Imgur album shows how the boards were put on. They're not wedge-shaped, and they weren't made to fit together -- they're basic fence boards that you would normally put flat against the rails.

http://imgur.com/a/wypVu


texts:
I have a Makita 4329 jigsaw and I am wondering if the temperatures are normal or are a little high ?
I marked on the photo the temperatures that I feel with my hand when touching the mentioned part of the jigsaw. The temperatures from the photo were measured right after cutting continuously for about 5-10 minutes, with a few seconds pause from time to time.

Also, if I start the tool with no load (so without cutting), then it heats up a little less than the temperatures from the image.


texts: Generally speaking, when is it necessary to install a sub-panel for providing electricity to an outside shed/office?

texts:
Santa Cruz County, CA, USA

I'm in the process of building an outdoor office in my back yard (mainly as a "man cave" and quiet place to work from home).

The picture makes it look large but it's actually just a 10 x 12 shed.

Core construction is complete and now I'd like to run electrical out to it (two circuits so I can have an air conditioner or heater if needed).  I've had several electricians come out to provide bids but there seems to be a difference of opinion on how to proceed.

One bid essentially involves installing two 20-amp 120/v circuits. The other bid involves installing a 30 amp 220V line from main panel to office sub panel.

All of the electricians are fully licensed and bonded with the state and assure me that the work would be to code.... So I'm confused on why there's such a difference in perspective/work.  Obviously the bid with the sub-panel work is more expensive.

So my question is this: Generally speaking, when is it necessary to install a sub-panel for providing electricity to an external shed?  Is there any safe/legitimate reason why some electricians might not think a sub-panel is necessary?


texts: Wiring an old dryer without a white ground wire?

texts:
I purchased an old electric dryer to hold me over until I can have a gas line installed in my laundry room and am in the process of converting it from a 3-prong to a 4-prong plug. According to the warning the ground and neutral should be bonded. The problem is that there doesn't seem to be a white grounding wire. What do I do with the ground to wire this thing up safely?

According to this answer there should some kind of jumper. What does that look like? There is conflicting information in this answer. Is it safe to bind the neutral and ground wires?


texts: Can I reuse underlayment for vinyl flooring replacement?

texts: I have Armstrong vinyl sheeting over underlayment. If I remove the vinyl can I use the sub floor that's already there?


texts: Is it ok to prime subfloor under engineered wood?

texts:
I'm going to be installing floating hardwood. Since I have the subfloors exposed (I screwed and caulked then because why not?) I thought I might also roll on mold-resistant primer like zinser.
I don't have a mold issue but I figured why not? It doesn't take that long and if it abates mold if I ever have water intrusion then it's easy to do right now.

In it's final form the layers would be: finished wood, pad, barrier, paint, subfloor, spray foam (from below).


texts: Can I re-grout if there is possibility of mold/mildew behind shower?

texts:
We have a problem with psocids in our bathroom, which like to feed on mildew. They come and go out of gaps and holes in the shower grout. I am thus under the impression that there may be mold and mildew behind the tiles.

I have been reading a lot about removing grout and redoing the grout between our tiles. If there is a mildew issue behind the tiles, will re-grouting will be useless? I want to get rid of the cracking and crumbling grout to seal out bugs, but am afraid to seal in any mold or mildew. Any suggestions that don't include a full bath makeover?

This is the current state of the shower ledge, where it seems to be the worst


texts: Still looking for a 3-way dimmer switch that matches my existing light switches

texts:
OK, we'll try this again.
I scrubbed the question of any specific company or style names; I only included those because I was trying to be specific about my existing electrical system.  I did think I made it clear that I was looking for what sort of equipment would work, rather than any specific product recommendatations.
I want to replace a 3-way switch with a 3-way dimmer switch to control a pair of 5-watt LED ceiling light bulbs.
I was told that the company that made my existing switch does not make LED-compatible dimmers, but when searching HI SE, I read that many dimmers are LED-compatible even though they don't say so on the package.
The other switch in the circuit will remain an ordinary 3-way switch. When I turn it on with that switch, I expect the brightness to be whatever I left it at the other switch.
In addition, I want it to cosmetically match the other existing switches and outlet in my apartment.
I think I saw a "not dimmable" symbol on the light bulb package, but I'm not sure. I'd be willing to replace the bulbs if need be. (Can I just test it to see if it will work? Or will using an incompatible bulb cause a fire or something?)
I'm not planning to have smart bulbs, remote controls, or controls via an app; just a normal 3-way circuit plus a dimmer.
Specifically, I want to find a 3-way rocking motion switch (not push-on, push-off) with a brightness dial that cosmetically matches my other switches and outlets and works with LED bulbs. (I live in Germany. In German, that would be a Wechselwippenschalter mit Dimmer für LED.)
Even though I was told that this particular company doesn't make LED dimmers, it's possible that what the salesclerk meant was they don't make any that were specifically for LED. (Or maybe that since they didn't have any that were specifically for LED, he assumed they were all not compatible with LED bulbs.) Should I try a generic dimmer from the same company and see what happens?
Alternatively, could I just buy a plastic cover from the company that made my other switches and outlets and put that on top of some other brand of "innards" (electrical parts)?
I am also interested in why the dimmers are different. (The clerk just said the electronics are different but that's hardly a satisfying answer.) Or should I ask this part of the question on EE SE instead?


texts: how to remove the particle board subfloor underlayment quickly?

texts:
I have a master bedroom and office which have particle board underlayment. I can tell it is off-gassing formaldehyde because I can smell it!

I plan to replace the carpet in a month so I'd like to remove the particle board first and put new plywood.

It is nailed down like below and I still don't know what's the most efficient way/tool to remove it?

Any suggestion is appreciated!


texts:
I recently removed the agitator in my Whirlpool (model LSQ8500JQ1) washer to replace the "dogs". The bottom of the basket looked like this:

Something is missing in the upper hole, what is it and should I be worried about it? Thanks...


texts: Can I replace a valve's round knob with a lever?

texts: I have a water shutoff valve with a round handle. I am installing an automatic shutoff system but it requires a straight handle. Can I replace just the round valve handle with a straight lever?


texts: How can I fix a single radiator that is not providing heat?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Why is my radiator not getting hot water or have air in it?

All of my radiators are working, apart from one. There is heat in the pipe attached to it , but the radiator is cold. I have bled it several times , but all that is happening is that I am continually filling buckets of water.


texts: Just wired a new heater like this and the GFCI pops when the heater comes on. Can someone explain to me why this is happening?


texts: Can EPDM roofing be applied directly over XPS panels?

texts: I couldn't find any information if one can put EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer) directly over XPS (extruded polystyrene)? The materials are used for hydro and thermo isolation (consequently), thus it's reasonable to cover XPS with EPDM when building a roof. I'm interested mostly if anyone tried to combine them. Were there any problems with their chemical interaction or adhesion? How long such type of covering could exist? The links will be useful too. Thanks in advance.


texts: Does a drain pipe have to be in the floor/wall or can it run on top of floor underneath cabinets?

texts:
I'm renovating my kitchen on the second floor of my duplex, so there is a finished ceiling directly below it. The kitchen sink will be moved about 7 feet horizontally from where it is now. In the current location of the kitchen sink, there will be cabinets and the cabinets will extend all the way until the new sink location.

Since kitchen cabinets have 4 inches of empty space under them, I was wondering if instead of placing the new horizontal drain line in the wall or under the floor, I could simply run it under the cabinets on the floor. Maybe my Google-fu is failing me (or the answer is obvious), but I couldn't find anything referencing doing this. It would save a lot of time and it would be nice not having to destroy my studs or joists. And in the future if it needs repair (knock on wood), I won't be tearing apart my tenant's ceiling or the back of my cabinets.

Is there any reason why this is a bad idea? If it's against code, I'd still like an explanation of why it's a bad idea - I like to learn. Thanks in advance for any advice.


texts:
I am building a small RV park that has only 10 spaces. I am thinking about running Coax cable to each spot to provide TV service. At first I will just be hooking it up to broadcast tv using an antenna, but may provide cable tv eventually.

Would it be ok to just daisy chain all 10 spots? Or possibly even just 5 spots on 2 separate lines? I would just run direct burial grade coax from the office to spot 1, use a splitter to run another cable to spot 2, and so on.

I am mainly wondering if there will be any issues with signal quality degrading too much after each split? Has anybody done anything similar to this? This cable will be transmitting HD tv only, no internet. There is a driveway up the middle of the park with 5 spaces on either side, with the office right in the middle on one side of the driveway. The spaces are each about 40 ft apart from one another.


texts: Is there such a thing as a vacuum sump pump? No standing water above check valve?

texts:
Is there such a thing as a vacuum operated sump pump?
Most sumps or ejector pumps leave a column of water above the check valve, and leave a few centimeters of water in the sump beside.

I have a need to install two sumps where this is undesirable.  The first is a graywater ejection system where it is better not to 'store' the water.

The second is a place that gets wet 4-5 times per year.  I currently vacuum this up with a shop vac leaving the area totally dry.  If I place a sump instead, the sump (sealed or not) will have standing water much longer.

I am aware of water powered emergency backup lifters (e.g. RB-750 from RadonSeal -- 1 gallon in lifts 2 gallons out).


texts: How to get rid of these white spots or fungus?

texts: I am not sure actually what these are but if I don't stay in my room for few days or weeks these seems to grow everywhere these wires, clothes not on paper or wall though.. what are these why they grow and how to get rid of these. thanks for your suggestion in advance.


texts: What is on my shower drain and why is my shower not draining?

texts:
I just moved into an apartment and the shower does not drain well. It floods above my feet every time i shower. I've tried running vinegar down it after showers and this sort of helps, but eventually i need to use a plunger on it to get it to drain, since it will stop draining entirely after a few days.

I dont know if this is contributing, but there is a built in stopper in the drain, and im wondering if i can remove this safely? What is it called?


texts: How can I cut cement sewer line to add cleanout?

texts:
I have a home built in 1950 with a cement sewer line. I have had to have
the line cleared twice in the last two years. The last time they sent a
camera down the line and the line seems root free with no obvious broken
sections. The  line had a few slightly bumpy sections but I suspect not
too bad considering the age. I would like to install a cleanout so I don't
have to pull the toilet next time it backs up. I dug the hole
and found the pipe to be what I think is 5" cement type. I need
to know if there are rubber sleeves for this size of pipe so I can add
the "Y" ABS fittings also what is the best way to cut the cement so as to
get a clean edge?


texts:
I'm buying my first house (1000 sq ft) and it has an old, unused water well. It has a central furnace but no central AC, only window units.

I want to use geothermal to condition the air, but only to cool the house in the summer and supplementing the window units.

Here's my question:

What if I rigged up a geothermal system that simply takes the 55°F well water (open loop system), run it through a car radiator or something, and blow air over it? Won't that give me chilled air?? Now I can blast that air through the existing vents. Right?


texts: 24 Electrical outlets replaced, only 12 work

texts: My husband updated 20yr old outlets in our grandma's house. After replacing roughly 24 outlets only half of them (12) worked when we turn the power back on -- He went back and rechecked for loose wiring and all were connected. We also checked,double checked and triple checked the with the breaker box.


texts: How to repair garage slab after plumbing brought in

texts: The corner of the slab in my garage was removed to bring in plumbing. It's been backfilled with ~3 feet of dirt (slab was 2ft thick). What is the best way to repair this? I'm thinking I'll dig out approx. 1 ft., compact as best I can, and fill with cement, only applying adhesive to slab sides (not the stem wall) and maybe chisel out an undercut on the slab. Anything I should do differently/think about? I've never worked with cement before. Thanks.


texts: Hanging a TV mount on a old wall with metal studs

texts:
I am hanging a TV in my condo.  The condo was built in 1967.  The wallboard is very thick, around 3/4" with less then 2 inches behind the wallboard.  I was going to use GripIt anchors but they only go up to 5/8"  I then tried Hilti HTB-2 Hollow wall metal anchors but the toggle is to long to make it all the way into the hole so that it can spring out.

I am wondering if I take the two lag bolts that came with the mount and screw them through the drywall and metal studs if that would hold.

The TV is 40 pounds but the mount can extend 18" so I am worried about torque.

Anyone have any suggestions of a anchor I can use?


texts: Fixing a (possibility) incorrectly wired 4 way light

texts:
I started a project to add a 16v line for a video doorbell and, as always, ran into some trouble.

Split level house was built in the 70s and has a 4 way switch and a single pole right by the front door. The siblings to the 4 way are top and bottom of the stairs. The single pole controls the porch light.

I've identified the source line and the leg running to the porch. However there is something wrong with the 4 way.

As you can see in the picture, this is a 3 way switch, which led me to believe that it is either the first or last switch in the line up.  When I looked at the other switches, the top of the stairs is a 3 way switch. The junction box only has a single 14/3 with red to bottom right, white to top and black to bottom left. Too dark to confirm without disconnecting everything, but it looks like the same style as the middle switch with the travelers on the bottom and common on top. The bottom of the stairs has a 4 way switch, but it shares a junction box with another circuit that I couldn't shut off so I didn't take it all the way out.

Back to the one that I'm working with,  I've tested it with the circuit on and the only live wire is either the bottom red or black, depending on the state of the other 2 switches. That matches what I know about 4-ways. However, it has two lines going into the common. That, and the dead end on the switch upstairs, I don't understand.

Is this up to code? If it is I don't need to change anything expect add a spur from the line feeding the porch light to a transformer.

Edit.

I think I figured it out. Fixed my typo with 18/3 vs 14/3. Mixed up because I ran the 18g for the doorbell. Also had to resize picture to be under 2mb. Attached now before I took anything apart. All markings on all wires are from me trying to figure it out.

Bottom of the stairs has a 4 way switch with line voltage coming in. Middle of the stairs has a 3 way, with separate line voltage coming in for the light outside, with a single pole. Top of the stairs has a 3 way switch.

Does that make sense? I can't figure out why the top switch can turn off the light if turned on from the middle or bottom switch. It must run from the middle switch, up to the light then back down to the top switch. Yikes. I've previously replaced the fixture above the ceiling and I don't remember seeing anything up there that set off alarm bells but now I want another look.

Whatever, it works. I just very carefully marked each wire with what terminal it is connected to and didn't mess with it. Replaced the double gang with a triple, but forgot to get the divider plate for the low voltage side, so I haven't put the transformer in yet.

Edit 2. The brown wire is 18g that is going to the doorbell. In the picture I already took out the plastic 2 gang already, but you can still see the metal bracket in the back it was mounted on. Hate those things, take forever to get out. I've replaced it with a 3 gang box but haven't been able to find anywhere local with divider plates so the transformer isn't hooked up yet. I want to put the transformer inside the box so it doesn't make contact with the foil from the insulation.


texts: How long do I charge the battery for a "Power Grinder" brand rotary tool?

texts: I was given a "Power Grinder" brand(made in China) rotary tool, and its cordless. I've plugged it into the charger, and the red light came on, and is still on 6 hrs. later. The tool works, but I don't know if its fully charged. It didn't come with any sort of manual, or instructions. I searched for a manual online, but couldn't even get the tool to come up in the results. I don't know if I'm damaging the battery, or if it actually takes this long to charge. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks, Mark]1


texts: What do I use to fill in the crack between the wall and floor of my tiled bathrooms?

texts:
Yesterday I had an energy audit performed on my home which revealed sever leakage of air from the floors in both my bathrooms. The inspector told me to fill the cracks but was vague as to what would be the proper materials to do the job…

Master Bathroom is Tile floor and Tile wall (see image below)

The main Bathroom is Tile floor to a wood moulding on the wall (see image below)

The inspector mentioned getting cement sealant for the master bathroom and using regular transparent caulking for the main bathroom – would this be recommended?

I found in the basement the grout that the previous owner used when he installed it, actually there are two bags:

Mapei Keracolor U polymer modified premium grad unhanded grout
Mapei ceramic to tile wall grout (unsanded)

Should I be using either of these?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,


texts: "C" wire in wall! Where does it go in air handler/furnace?

texts: Got a wifi thermostat. Behind the old thermostat was a blue "C" wire. The other side of the blue wire in the equipment room isn't plugged into anything. I need to get the 24v common hooked up to this blue but don't know where it goes. Any help is greatly appreciated.


texts: How to remove paint and refinish metal fan housing front plate

texts:
I have an old exhaust fan from the 50s in my kitchen; the kind where you let a bead chain loose and it opens a hatch and the fan engages.  Anyways, the fan has a metal faceplate, and a stainless steel grill in front.  I cleaned the grill up and it's shining nice now, but the metal faceplate (which also holds the fan attached to it and the whole thing is then screwed into the housing) is covered in probably 15 layers of paint over the years.  There's some pink, then green, and yellow over that, and then white, and probably plenty of other layers I can't make out.  What's the best way to remove all that paint?  I want to strip it down to bare metal (it can be submersed in something if need be), and then I will either try to finish the metal (don't know where to start there), or I will just paint it again to match my refinished kitchen.

So the meat of this question is, how to strip 60 years worth of layered paint from a metal faceplate so it's down to bare metal again, and if I were to finish the metal, what are the options there (i think it's steel)?


texts: What is the best way to convert a garage to livable space?

texts:
Garage Conversion

We have an attached garage that has finished walls with no insulation, angled roof with no insulation and exposed rafters, and a new roll up uninsulated garage door. It has a side door that leads to the backyard. Our central AC just died, and we are replacing, but considering running new duct out to the garage so our large family can use the space. It seems expensive. The temperature here is extreme in summer and winter, 106 and below 40. I just don't think a window unit will make it livable if we leave the door open from the main house to the garage. What's a mom to do? Thanks


texts: Using a single pipe off the main drain for a washer and utility sink, venting?

texts:
I am renovating my bathroom. I am using this as an opportunity to additionally:

Move my washer and dryer from the mudroom, into the garage.
Add a utility sink to the garage.

The current plumbing

Here are is my washer and dryer (which will be moved), located on the other side of the pictured wall.

Here is my toilet. It isn't being moved, I'm just being informational.

The new plumbing
Here is where I'd like to move the washer and dryer, on the other side of the pictured wall (in the garage).

Here is where I'd like to install the new utility sink. Again, on the other side of the pictured wall.

Here is what I'm thinking about the piping.

Notes:

I will use the existing T-connection that the old washer drain is hooked onto.
The piping will turn 90-degrees through a load-bearing wall. The right wall is 2x6, the left is 2x4.
The piping will elevate 1-inch every foot as it comes off of the main drain.
The current copper supply line for the washer will be refitted to supply the new washer location and utility sink. I'm not concerned about water pressure issues when both are active.
The P-trap for the utility sink will be outside of the wall (in the garage).

Some concerns:

Should I be concerned about the velocity of the washer drain siphoning out the P-trap of the utility sink?
Someone mentioned I could use a single line off of the main drain pipe for both the washer and dryer, but only if I add a studor vent. How exactly would I apply it? Outside the garage on the utility sink? Just before the pipe goes into the wall? So when looking at the utility sink from the garage, I'd see "sink -> p-trap -> studor vent -> wall"? Will the studor vent allow enough air to be sucked in to protect against the negative pressure created by the velocity of a draining washer?


texts: So my friend said I could rent out his place for free if I can get it clean and the person was here last didn't take very good care of it. The toilet looks like it hasn't been cleaned in ages and there are stains. Any idea what the best way to remove them is? I've scrubbed at it for like an hour with a pumice stone and while it's a mild improvement, there's still a long way to go. Any ideas as to get it clean?


texts: What to use as a screed edge along a brick wall?

texts:
I'm planning to pour a concrete slab along a brick wall and need to plan how I will screed it smooth.

Three sides of the rectangular slab will have a removable wooden form, but the fourth side is against a brick wall. The question is: what to use as a screed guide along the brick wall?

Any material I put there will tend to get concrete packed up against it. So it either needs to be something sacrificial I can just leave embedded in the slab, or be able to pull out after the screeding is done but before the concrete has set hard (and then touch up just that small area).

The length of this side is about 18' (6m).

The simplest option would be to screw a 1/2" board to the brick and abandon it in the concrete. But just in case any moisture wicks in that seems like a poor choice.

This edge will be covered in the end so appearance isn't important.


texts: Can municipal authorities get warrant to search suspected building site in U.S.?

texts:
Hypothetically, let's say you decide to do some indoor renovations but not get a permit and you know the work requires permit (e.g. electrical, framing, etc).  Also, you lower the blinds on all windows, keep the outside of the house intact, and do not accumulate trash, IOW, you are as clandestine as you can be.

Let's say the building police (what I like to call them) drive around or someone tips them (maybe neighbors over noise) that there is suspicious construction going on but, from the outside they can't prove you are doing anything cause you have sealed the inside visually.

In the U.S., is there any way for the building inspectors to obtain a search warrant to forcibly check what is going on inside?

Disclaimer:  This is not me.  I am just wondering about a hypothetical scenario.


texts: Fireplace cleaning (UK 1930s Terraced House)

texts: We are looking for guidance on how to clean/restore an original 1930s (UK) fireplace (photoed below). We are not sure what metal it is, but assume it is cast iron.


texts:
I ordered a set of panels from waterproofing.com for their "SealOnce" system to sorta block off the basement drains from the cats / prevent some debris from getting in from their boxes.

http://waterproof.com/sealonce-diy-basement-waterproofing-system/

I didn't order their adhesive/mastic - what big box store product would be appropriate to use for mating the vinyl to concrete?

From the images on their site it looks more like a caulk to me the way they spread it?


texts: Where should I dispose watered down, VOC latex paint?

texts:
I have an airless paint sprayer (Wagner Procoat) which I clean by running water through it, until all the paint is gone. The paint I used was Valspar Ultra Zero VOC.

I collect the water+paint in a bucket. I know the proper way of disposing latex paint is to let it dry and harden and take it to the disposal centre. In this case, it will take years to dry since it's mostly water. What's the best way to dispose it?


texts: is it possible to have a unstable water pressure?

texts:
I had my bathroom sink valves replaced by brand new shut-off valves. Since this replacement, I started noticing pools of water just under the shut-off valves. What interesting is: most of times I checked for leaking, there was no leaking. I only witnessed leaking for once, which means the water pressure is sometimes high and sometimes low?

Is it possible to have a unstable water pressure in my apartment? What could have caused it?


texts: what is a reasonable amount of condensate water produced by my pump?

texts:
I have a Ruud hi-efficiency furnace and also a Ruud tankless hot water system, both with condensate lines running down to the pump.

My problem is... the pump runs (intermittently) ALL day long..lol.. it will fill up the laundry tub if I put the plug in... I can't tell if it's the furnace producing the excess condensate or the tankless heater.

Suggestions?!

thanks in advance!


texts: Dangers of connecting Neutral to case of blower?

texts: (Not an Electrician) I have a 220V air handler (not part of the HVAC system its for a homemade wind tunnel) that I need to get power to. There is an old dryer receptacle (10-30R) in the basement that I'd like to use. My plan is to use L1 and L2 to power the air handler and connect the white wire to the case of the air handler like it would have been in an older dryer. I know that this wouldn't be to code but my question is about safety. How big of a risk would I be taking and what horrible things could go wrong?


texts: conversion from fluorescent to halogen lights

texts: I am try to take a connection that was originally used for a fluorescent light with a black wire and a white wire and use the same two wires with a halogen light that has a white wire, a black wire, and a yellow and green wire. Is it possible to make this conversion and if so, how?


texts: Standing water at back of shower need suggestions

texts: Contractor converted bathtub to shower, finished yesterday, shower has standing water at back and middle of shower after use. What are possible solutions.


texts: Why is this baseboard paint blistering and pulling away?

texts: I'm attaching some pictures I took. This has been an ongoing problem with the baseboard pulling away and fine black dust left where it pulls away. There is a crack under the window that has gotten bigger. This occurs all along this short window under a set of three windows. The paint which is not new (painted 4 years ago) has started to bubble as well. I want to know if it's a major problem or traditional settling. Our house was built in 1999.


texts: I lost the canopy bracket along with the receiver and remote to my ceiling fan while moving. I then ordered an exact replacement receiver and remote for the fan, and when I had someone install it, the remote still didn't work for some reason. Does anyone know what the problem could be?


texts:
I am in the process of clearing out old random wires from my 100 year old house (think multiple layers, modern, knob and tube and everything in between).   In the process of doing this, I  tried to remove a knob and tube circuit that disappeared into an air duct.  I turned off the breaker feeding it and cut the wires before they entered the duct. Why is the wiring being traced through an air duct?  You'll have to ask someone from 100 years ago.

I then went to the panel to disconnect the wires completely from the breaker (leaving the loose in between pieces in the air return, as I don't want to take that apart).  The  hot wire is easy to identify being connected to a specific breaker.  However, it enters the panel by itself, as a single cloth wrapped conductor not linked in any way to the neutral.  The neutral is one of 30 other neutral wires entering the panel, and I can't easily see which one it is.  Is it safe to leave the neutral wire that is buried in the air duct connected to the neutral bar, or should I really unearth it so I can fully remove it from its panel connection.


texts: Top brown picture is my old thermostat white is the new one , do I have it wired correct? On out side unit we have replaced motor, fuses, compassator ,cc contactor ,relay . We have a heat pump. But the fan still will not work to blow into the house


texts: We are doing over our bathroom.  We have tiled the shower with large white tiles with a gray strip down each side.  After we grouted the white tiles (waited a couple of days) we used gray grout for the strip down the sides.  The gray grout got onto the white grout, we washed some off but still a grayish colour.  My question is how to clean the white grout? I thought about bleach but think it may be too string for new grout.


texts: 60 Hz home appliances on 50 Hz electricity (both 220 volt)

texts:
I am not an electrical engineer, and I want a simple language answer to a question that I think covered elsewhere, but I didn't understand.

If I get a washing machine designed to work on 220 V 60 Hz, can it run safely on a 220 V 50 Hz electricity source?

The item is relatively new (the specific product I am asking about).


texts: How to build canted riser for queen mattress?

texts:
My wife has severe allergies and has found that sleeping on an incline helps matters. We have a queen mattress on an Ikea MALM bedframe, and I'm trying to think of a simple way to test this out easily and cheaply.

I'm thinking of cutting pieces of wood to fit and stacking them flush against the headboard, each layer a little shorter length-wise, to create a basic ramp. I'm told that a 15-degree tilt would be enough. A queen mattress is 79.5  x 76".

My questions are:

Does this seem reasonable, e.g., any gotchas here? Or is there a simpler (and cheaper) way?
If the answer to the above is 'yes', what type of wood should I go for? Regular lumber? Plywood? And how thick?
Based on a given thickness, how many pieces would I need, and how long should each be, to make the 15-degree tilt?


texts: Why does it take so long for my water to run hot and why does it not last in the shower?

texts:
I have a State electric compact water heater model 6-120.  When I run the faucet it seems to take a long time for the water to run hot. About a minute or two.  When I take a shower I can run the hot water for about twenty minutes and then it goes cold.

Is this normal? I live in a three bedroom, two story townhouse. But I'm the only one living here. The shower is on the second floor.  The water heater is on the first floor. But even the tap closes to the water heater takes too long to warm up. Do I have a problem? A plumber installed it for me in 2012.

Also, do I need to do anything to maintain the water heater or to improve performance. Like flush it or something?


texts: Should you remove sonotubes when possible?

texts: When you're using a sonotube in an open excavation, should you peel the sonotube off of your peirs before you backfill your hole? Or is it better to backfill, then only peel the sonotube off of what's above ground?


texts: Half-inch Gap between wall and floor in second floor bedroom

texts:
I moved a bookcase today was surprised when I looked at the wall.  There was a 1/2" gap between the wall and the floor (see photos).  The bookcase was not heavy, only used to hold kids games.  It was against an inside wall.  In one direction, the gap extends a few feet into the room and then the wall and the floor meet as they should.  In the other direction, the gap meets an outside wall and makes a 90 degree turn, then disappears in a few feet (see photo).

A window sill in that part of the room seems to have a new crack.  I noticed a little cold air at the bottom of the window and then noticed a small crack in the windowsill. The crack seems new (see photos).

What should I think about doing next?

P.S.  The paint chips in the photos are unrelated.  I removed some old cable TV cables before I took the photos.

Update: Plan now is to take up some floorboards and see what we can see.


texts: How soon after laying is concrete drillable?

texts:
I made a small concrete patch along the edge of a room that I would like to set a PT 2x4 base plate on for framing. I prefer drilling and screwing with a lead anchor over using power actuated nails.

How soon after setting is concrete ready to be drilled? Is it enough to just dry it (like 24 hrs) or does it need more?


texts: Where can I find a 1/2" bit screwdriver?

texts: I have a 3/8" bit screwdriver but the bolt I need to unscrew is even bigger than that and TIGHT, so using that screwdriver is starting to strip the screw a bit.  I can't find a bigger one anywhere online.


texts: How do I cover one side of a two-sided fireplace with bricks?

texts:
EDIT: 1/21/13

We hired a professional mason to convert the two-sided fireplace into a single-sided fireplace.

We ended up interviewing about 5 people and getting bids from all of them.  The guy we picked was by far the most knowledgeable.  All of the others wanted to build a flat back wall (firebox).  Only the gentleman we chose proposed something different, that being a Rumford Fireplace.

We are happy.

</edit>

We have a 2-sided fireplace (open on both sides) which divides our living room and sun room.

The fireplace was built in 1925.  We recently had the fireplace inspected and the inspector said everything looks good and it's OK to use.

One side had a wall of tempered glass attached to a metal frame.  On the other side was nothing.  I bought a glass fireplace door and installed it myself.

Last night we were having a fire and the tempered glass exploded (I know).

So I'm now thinking about doing the following project:

Remove the metal frame that is screwed into the back wall
Put up a solid brick wall on the back, thereby closing off that side and making it a 1-sided fireplace.
?

I am asking a question here because

I have no experience with masonry
I don't know whether this is a good idea from a safety perspective, although the risk seems pretty low since brick won't burn.
It seems like double-sided fireplaces are relatively rare, so there I couldn't find a lot of information out there on this topic.

I'm a hacker and pretty confident in my abilities to read and follow instructions.  The lack of masonry experience bothers me, but we're probably going to paint over the resulting brick wall, so it doesn't have to look perfect.  Anyone think I will be able to do this project successfully?  Can you provide me with a masonry howto or any tips?

EDIT:  We have had the chimney and fireplace inspected by an off-duty fireman.  He says that in its current condition, it is safe to use.  My question, narrowed in light of that fact, is

What kind of materials (brick, stone, etc) and mortar should I use to provide maximum heat and fire resistance?
Any tips on where to get started as a completely green mason?


texts: Can I use brake fluid or steering fluid to stop a fan from squeaking?

texts: Can I use braking fluid or steering fluid on my squeaking table fan? Are they safe? I'm just wondering if I can use anything that's already lying around the house.


texts: How can I repair this small hole in my basement floor?

texts:
Last summer I noticed water coming up from my basement, always in the same spot. The rest of the basement is bone dry and we have french drains so I was baffled. This winter, I tore up the tile that was in that area, and lo and behold, I found a hole roughly the size of a golf ball. I am not able to confirm whether this is where the water is coming from because nothing is leaking in winter, but this is the exact spot water always pooled from, so I assume it is groundwater coming up.

We are recent owners of the house, so I have no idea how the hole got there. I want to fill it. Someone warned me about water pressure building up if I did that, but there is a large sump hole very close to this.

Here are some pictures with my finger for scale:

How do I fill this?


texts:
I want to connect boiler switcher, in the wall I have 4 wires, 2 live, neutral and earth, but on the wifi switcher it needs L(in) L1(out) N1(out) N(in) as shown in the pictures,

How can I connect it?


texts: how much 3 inch B-vent (double wall) for water heater can be above the roof?

texts:
The natural gas venting tables talk about lateral versus vertical rise and pipe diameter, plus the 2 and 10 ft rule for height above the roofline and outdoor vertical walls but they never mention how much of the B-vent can be above the roof versus inside the attic or conditioned space.
In my case Im moving a 40 gallon natural venting gas water heater into the unconditioned attic with only 3-4 feet of headroom before I need to penetrate the roof at which point I must be 2 to 2.5 ft above the roof for a 9/12 pitch roof. That means I will have maybe 7 feet of total vent (straight up).
The attic isnt conditioned but its not freezing cold in winter either. Will 2 feet of b-vent exposed to ice cold winter air cause issues on a short run of 3 inch B vent?
Maybe its irrelevant since its an unconditioned attic to start with....


texts: Replacing a door handle with no visible screws

texts: I am trying to replace a door handle that doesn't have any visible screws. I am assuming the first step is to remove this faceplate that probably conceals the screws underneath, however the plate does not budge. There is a tiny divot in the plate, large enough for a screwdriver, but no amount of twisting, pulling, or prying via the divot seems to remove the faceplate (rose?). Any tips on how to remove this without causing any damage?


texts: Can I build a retaining wall along an existing fence?

texts:
Our yard has a small slope to it, and we wanted to make it level. (Mainly so we can put a swing set in for our kids.) I was thinking I could build a small retaining wall and just fill it in, but would that pose a problem since it would be along an existing fence? I would rather not have to move that :)

I know it would essentially make the fence shorter on our side and I am OK with that, but are there any other reasons why it would be a bad idea.

If it isn't going to be a problem, what should be used as the wall? Are cement blocks OK?

Picture as requested. I played around with the best angle to show the slope. I was thinking about cement blocks lined up along the fence to even out the slope and back filling dirt to the top of those (18 inches at the deepest).


texts: What bit to use to cut a hole in quartz counter top?

texts: What bit should I use to cut a hole to put in quartz counter top. I got a Glass ceramic tile bit and was wondering if that would work


texts: I initially had a drip coming from the spout in the bathroom tub.  I replaced the hot and cold water stems and put new seats in both.  This fixed the drip.  The problem I now have is when I turn on the handle I'm getting a leak from the cold water handle.  Even if I just turn on the hot water handle, I'm still getting a leak from the cold water handle.  I'm thinking I didn't tighten that seat enough - it was very hard to get at.  Any suggestions on the problem?


texts: What is the typical vertical angle field of view for a PIR motion sensing light switch?

texts:
PIR (passive infrared) motion sensing light switches advertise the arc for which they detect motion, but that is only the horizontal arc. I can't find information on the vertical angle for their field of view. This can be important for a bathroom frequented by small children. Is there a typical angle they all have, or is there somewhere this is specified?

I have an one I'm testing right now that has a very narrow vertical arc, so I'm wondering if they're all like that or just this specific product.


texts: Can I use #6 wire to feed a sub panel off main

texts: I have a 200amp service, thats loaded with twins, my son just bought house, anyway I want to put a 100amp sub panel inside basement off the main panel, the run is nomore than 20', I have about 50' of #6 that Id like to use to see 100amp sub, now thing is off this sub panel I have to running 3-double pole 20's for 3 8' baseboard heaters, the Main 20amp arch fault breaker for room & a homerun 20amp breaker dedicated to a window AC unit (Im pulling lights of that line, 7 high hats.........is my #6 (4 wire) enough to carry that load and to add to down road or should I splurge to play safe and use #4 or #2?


texts: Tried to replace light switch but circuit breaker flipped with new switch, so put old one back and that flips the breaker too??

texts:
I'm renovating a bedroom in our house and went to replace the light switch after doing all the electrical outlets.

The old light switch was a 2 wire, a black and a brownish colour. On the new switch there was 2 screws on one side and 1 on the other and a ground. Then there were 2 holes at the top and at the bottom. So I put the black into the hole at the top then other into the hole on the same side at the bottom. Then tested but it flipped the breaker.
When try to eject the wires from the switch, I broke the switch so went and got another.. this time a simple 2 wire one.

I checked online, found that both wires were probably live as it was the only switch for the light. After connecting wires, tested it again and it brew the breaker again!

So I resigned to putting the old switch back in the way it was before I started messing with it. Tested again, and it blew the breaker again! I changed the wires around in case I got it wrong, still same result.

Anyone got any idea what might be going on??

Any help would be much appreciated!


texts: I have a bare copper wire that runs from the breaker box to the hot water hose under the kitchen sink. The electrician did this. Is this safe, if not how do I fix it?


texts: What's the best way to hang this large picture on insulated plasterboard?

texts:
I would like to hang this fairly large framed picture on my living room wall. The frame measures 167x75cm, and weighs roughly 8.5kg. Both top and bottom of the frame had snapped previously (while being transported from abroad), and have recently been repaired by a local framing specialist. Here is a photo of the back of it - you can see the 4 metal braces where the repair took place:

The wall it needs to go on is a 9mm plasterboard with 30mm insulation board on top. As you can see in the photo the frame already has two D rings fixed to the frame for hanging from two hooks.

I would like to put any fixings into the studs which are 400mm apart. Unfortunately to get the picture in the centre of the room, both D rings fall more or less halfway between studs.

Would anyone be able to provide some advise on the most secure way to hang this please? The two options I've thought of are:

Rotate the D rings 90 degrees so they point each other, attach a cord/wire, and hang on two screws screwed into the 2 closest studs (roughly 200mm from each D ring)
Hang using 2 hooks to match the current position of the D rings, and fix into the plasterboard using some kind of drywall fixing.

If going for the cord/wire option, do I want to use a cord or wire? And should it be attached taut or with plenty of slack?

If fixing to drywall I would assume a metal spring toggle would be the most suitable - however I've never seen drywall fixings used where there is insulation board in front of the plasterboard, and not really visualise if that gets in the way of the fixing at all?

Also should I worry about the stability of the frame at all after the snap and repair? The braces look to be strong but I suppose the frame still won't have its full original strength?

Any advise would be much appreciated! I'm just really nervous that if not done properly, the picture will fall one day and knock someone out...


texts: Big table with both height and angle adjustable?

texts:
I need a table for using laptop computer with external display and also working on graphic design on paper and computer, and handheld devices. I'm thinking I need a reasonable large table with both the height and the angle of the table top adjustable.

I've found this product:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Sit-Stand-Tilting-Adjustable-Angle/dp/B07PZKFFB3

But it is too small to also sometimes have my paper draft laid out.

Any suggestion?


texts: Heater blower works, ac blower and compressor won’t shut off

texts: I have a mobile home unit, Coleman Evcon model DGRT070AUA. The unit controls blower and heat/ac internally, so thermostat is only on/off control. The heater side works fine, but the ac side won’t shut off the blower or the compressor. I changed the ac compressor coil first as it was stuck on, but it didn’t fix the problem. Any ideas?


texts: How do I remove wallpaper when it is close to a cupboard?

texts:
I have wallpaper close to a cupboard as you can see in the picture below.

I'm looking for a way to remove it, without removing the cupboard.

Is there a technique that can do that?

Thanks.

Update:

This is the result. Thanks!


texts: How far apart should I space rafters for a 13ft patio?

texts:
I'm looking to build a patio roof (shed style) and need to span 13ft. I've found several span tables online, some of them with different maximum distances between the rafters.

Is it ok to use 2x8s with 24" OC? - I've used this span calculator with the below variables to get a maximum span of 13'-10":

wood: SPF (I'm using the usual pressure treated lumber)
deflection limit: L/240
spacing: 24in
snow load: 30psf
dead load: 10psf

It will look something like this:


texts: washer drain overflowing, tried cleaning vent

texts:
The drain pipe for the water coming from the washing machine overflows. I tried drano, but that did not fix the problem. I climbed onto the roof and slid the metal snake down the pipe. I met some resistance then pushed through and moved the snake back and forth. When I pulled the snake out, some clumps of stuff came out. I repeated the process.

Should I spend more time on the roof or use more drano?


texts: What's involved in an electrical inspection to obtain a Certificate of Occupancy?

texts: In an 80 year old house with no original certificate of occupancy (C of O). I have to obtain a C of O, which requires an electrical inspection. What should the inspection involve?


texts: Reuse aluminum wire for basement Sauna heater

texts:
I have existing aluminum wiring, previously used for an electric stove top, that I would like to repurpose for a sauna heater in my basement. The electric stove top is gone.

Heater Specs from the manual:
6Kw, 240v/1ph, 25 Amps, 10 Gauge Wire
Indicates to use copper wire rated for 90 degs C

The existing wire circuit has a double-40 amp breaker using #6x4 conductor XHHW-2 alumiflex.
Distance from the breaker to the heater will use around 60 ft of wire.

Will it be safe and within specs to do this?
Thanks!


texts: How to remove scratches on varnished wooden door?

texts: Is there any easy way to make scratches disappear from wooden, varnished doors? Doesn't have to be perfect, I just need to make them hard to spot for someone who doesn't know they're there.


texts: Fitted Cupboard With Angles - How To Prevent Tops Of Doors Catching When Opening?

texts:
I designed a fitted cupboard to fit into my roof space and without any prior experience to building a cupboard with complex geometry (and not very square and level walls/floors) I've run into a major issue when trying to hang the doors.

I'm using concealed cupboard hinges such as these.

I originally planned to have the doors open out from centre on each cupboard pair but not considering the roof would impede this I'm having to open left to right.

Problem I now have is the very top corner (top right) of each door is catching on the upper frame.

I can't use butt hinges as the doors aren't recessed in to the cupboard.

I did think about squaring off the high peaks but not 100% sure if this would help and it would ruin the look I was going for...Wanted that 'false wall' look.

I could also trim the doors down, but this would leave a very noticeable line/gap around the doors.

Any help and advice greatly appreciated. Having difficulty finding the right guidance...Need to speak to an expert that understands the problem...main problem...should have paid someone to do it :D

Main structure:

With Doors:

Current Real WIP:

Closed Current Tolerance:

Where/how it is catching:

Internal view of hinge:


texts:
I have a Cub Cadet 1529 which I recently maintained in several different ways.

I changed the oil and filter a few weeks ago. I put 5W-30 in but had a really hard time telling if/when it was full because someone really needs to invent a better way to see oil level than a stupid inaccurate dipstick. I ended up removing some oil after I saw it leaking. I still can't tell if it's too full or not. I mowed at least once (1/2 acre) (maybe twice) without any major issues other than some oil leaking while sitting in the garage. The oil level seems like it's FULL or possibly overfilled but as far as I can tell, it's definitely not LOW.
I replaced the PTO belt (it was old and worn out and finally broke). I have mowed about 1/4 acre with it without any major issues.
I replaced the air filter. I can't possibly imagine how this would have caused any issues.

Today when I went to haul some stuff around my yard, I noticed the engine wasn't running well, as soon as I started it up. I could only go about half-throttle before it stopped speeding up. Blue smoke was coming out consistently. The choke sounded like it was going to kill the engine. I tried driving it around a little bit to see if the slight angle was causing a problem but it didn't get any better. I turned it around and drove it back into the shed.

I have a feeling it has a blown head gasket which I will have to figure out how to fix, I suppose... is that the most likely issue? How hard is this to change myself?


texts: Aprilaire 500 humidifier wiring question - no "C" common on furnace

texts:
Need help wiring humidifier into 24VAC heat circuit.

My furnace is an old single stage heat pump. There's no control board or "HUM" leads to connect to. All I got is what's on the panel in the photo. My furnace is a Trane TWV030B140A1 blower with aux heat element.

Please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this. My understanding is that typically it should be wired to "W" (heat) and "C" (common) so water flows to humidifier only on a heat call.

My issue: I don't have a "C" wire.

So what do I do in this case? Is the "B" wire the return instead of "C"?

Here's what I've determined so far if this helps:

"R" hot (measures ~28VAC. Should this be 24VAC?)
"G" fan (measures 25.5VAC when blower on)
"Y" compressor (measures 25.5VAC when compressor on)
"W1" and "W2" tied together. Assuming this is aux heat tied to emergency heat since only single stage heater. Measures 25.5VAC when heat on. Should this be 24VAC?
Manual says "O" is reversing valve
Don't know what "B" is

Any help is appreciated!


texts: I'm building an attached deck and have already buried precast piers in the ground.  Unfortunately, I had to dig so deep that the tops of the piers are below finished ground level.  I'd rather not bury the 6x6 posts.  The tops of the piers are 8"x8". Should I use sonotubes and pour concrete on top of the piers (assuming I can jury rig round sonotubes on top of a square pier top) to bring the piers above ground level?  How about putting a post sleeve around the post to keep it away from the soil?  I know metal and today's PT lumber aren't friendly with each other, so could I use plastic sleeves?


texts: Can I build an adjustable slanted table by placing bearings between the legs and the desk?

texts: The legs' length is adjustable, each leg is connected to the desk by means of a plate with 4 screws on the perimeter. I want to lower the table's front legs so the table becomes slanted. I would like to be able to adjust the slant degree so placing wedges between the legs and the desk does not help me. I've been thinking on adding some kind of bearing between the desk and the legs but haven't found any bearing that would enable me to do that. Any suggestions?


texts: How can I handle excessive pressure in a water heat circuit?

texts:
I am playing with radiant heating in my garage.  I want to put copper coil wrapped around the flue pipe, 5 feet out a SharkBite connector from copper to pex and the same for the cold water intake back to the coil on the stove.
Water expands when this gets hot, so I need a relief or discharge but can't find online what I should do for this.  Is there a like a pressure valve I could get at like home depot that discharges the hot water if there is too much pressure?
This is really just learning and playing around in an open garage.  I don't need to follow all the standards I just want to see how efficient it is...
any ideas would be appriciated.
thanks


texts:
My shower drain was leaking on to ceiling below and I thought to replace the shower drain flange and reseal it. Since it was probably put 10 years ago.

I am trying to unscrew the flange but it doesn’t budge. I tried to use the tool to unscrew it but no luck. I do notice there’s purple color so thinking if the flange is actually glued at the bottom. ? Is my assumption or text and it’s glued.

Based on what my internet research has suggested it should be only screwed and not glued.


texts: Why would a microwave make sounds like this?

texts:
Can anybody tell me why this microwave makes sound like it is going to transform into Optimus Prime?

Can someone diagnose the problem only by the sound in this YouTube Video, or maybe I have to do some more measurements?

Not sure if it is heating, worried to leave it ON for too long

[edit]
Burnt mica plate


texts: Six wires in outlet box, from 3 different circuits; 4 are hot?

texts:
I have been trying to install a new outlet in a room in my 1950s house, but I am really confused.  When I opened it up, there were two black wires in under one screw and one under another.  Ditto for the white wires. (No grounds anywhere in the house). I knew that was wrong

I pulled it apart and have been trying to sort it out and my head is ready to explode.  The first pair (black #1 and white #2) are on one breaker. The second pair (black #3 and white # 4) are on another breakers. And, the third pair (black #5 and white #5) are on yet a third breaker.

To make matters worse two of the black wires (#1 and #3) and two of the white wires (#4 and #6) are hot.

When testing I get 120 between #2 (which appears to be a true neutral) and #1, #3, #4, and #6.

I get 240 between #6 (which should be neutral, by color) and #1, #3, and #4

All other combinations are 0.

There is a light in the room (on a switch) that was working separately from the outlet, but is now out. The outlet has always stayed on, independent of the switch.

I could not come up with any safe way to put it back together.

Any ideas?


texts: After we use our shower, our ceiling makes a buzzing noise (sounds like a bug stuck up there). When my husband moved the drop ceiling tiles he noticed one rail is carrying current (it was throwing off a continues spark when it touched another metal). We turned off the breaker in our apartment and the apartment above ours and it was still carrying a current, not as strong as it was before we turned the breakers off but still enough to notice. Any ideas as to what it could be? is it possible that who ever installed the drop ceiling drove a nail into a wire in the wall?


texts: Can these locks be rekeyed to the same key?

texts:
I have 3 external doors on my house. Each has a different key. Two are Schlage sets and one is a Norwalk. The Norwalk blank says AR1 on it, and the Schlages are the standard version.

The Norwalk is what I'm most concerned about. It looks vintage, and is a sash lock. Turning the key operates both the deadlock as well as the latch. I don't know if these two systems can be made to work with the same blanks.

I would like to do this myself, but am currently more curious if it is possible at all.

Is there a way to have all the locks share a common key?


texts: I've been told I can not strip this stain off and need to sand it off. The spindles can stay as they're in good shape still.  It's about 800 sq feet plus stairs. What would be the best and most time effective way to tackle this?  What would be the best sander and paper grit?


texts:
What is the best way to glue a broken double-strength (⅛" thick) piece of glass? What sort of adhesive should I use?

The piece I need to glue back is about 6×12" in size, and it came off the edge of a ~2×3' rectangular pane.


texts: Water line under the sink to fridge ice make isn't working. No water will come through the line. How can I clean it out?

texts: This is the water line under the sink. Water is coming out of valve,but not the line.


texts: My 20 amp circuit has some 14 gauge wire in it. Is that OK?

texts: I have a 20 amp breaker in my 1890’s home with 12 gauge wire attached to it.  Further down the line (Where I can not see) there is some old 1960’s 14 gauge Romex wire attached to it within the walls of the house. This old 14 gauge wire is attached to a plug I want to tap into with 14 gauge wire to add a ceiling fan in my bedroom. Is this ok?


texts: What's the best way to mark wallboard for electrical box openings?

texts:
Putting up 3/4" x 8' x 4' Plywood wall covering with a receptacle behind.
What is the best way to mark it out for the cut?

Guess just to measure the horizontal and vertical in reference from the sides.

Then there's the receptacle cover plate that is larger than the box.

Any cool handyman tricks for this?

Like to cut it after securing the plywood sheet. I've cut two already and they are mis-aligned.


texts: Can anyone identify this mystery outlet?

texts: I found a mystery socket thing in my cupboard and I was wondering what it is. Here are some pictures of the front and inside the box.


texts: Can hand-rub poly be poured (in drops) then spread?

texts:
The last time I applied polyurethane, I chose a variety called "diamond something or other". It turned out that the diamond variety dries so quickly that if I apply a brush stroke one way and then simply move backwards along the same path, the first run would have already dried.

The net result was very disappointing. The surface (of wood shelves) came out very rough.

Because for this next project (a desk) the smoothness is of prime importance, I chose "hand-rub poly", after being told that it dries slowly.

The directions on the can say apply to cotton rag and then apply to wood. But the liquid is very thin, and very little makes it into the actual surface.

Is it safe to pour a few drops and then spread them with a cotton rag to leave the semblance of a coat? I'm working outside in the shade to minimize inhalation, and so the drying will be efficient from moving wind. What are your tricks to get a smooth surface from hand-rub poly?


texts:
I’ve got a nasty hole near the sink.
I guess the water gets out after dish washing underneath and rots the wood.
Is there a way to fix this without having to replace the whole vinyl?
I can probably find the paint color but not sure how to fill up the hole. Much appreciate any help.


texts: Furnace failing intermittently, is it a faulty furnace pressure switch?

texts:
Furnace info
Type: York Stellar Plus (HE down-flow condensing)
Model number: P2UDD12N09501C
Problem
My furnace is intermittently failing, i.e. it stops producing heat. When it fails, the induction blower motor is running, but nothing else is happening. Turning the heat off (either via my Nest thermostat or via power breaker) and back on resolves the problem in that the induction motor will start running again and the furnace will start producing heat again as well. There don't appear to be any discernible factors that determine how long it will take for the problem to recur. It will recur anywhere from several days to only a few hours.
Question
The pressure switch is obviously reverting to an open state at some point, thus disabling the heat. I've confirmed there is no obstruction of the air intake. My question is how do I determine if the pressure switch is faulty or if there are other conditions that are causing the pressure switch to open? It seems any such conditions automatically correct themselves when power is reset, leading me to believe it's just a faulty switch.
Update
I cleaned the flame sensor as suggested, however, the problem persists. (If anything it's now occurring more frequently.)
After further investigation I found there is an LED indicator on the control board (Honeywell S8910U) that I hadn't previously seen (it's behind a panel that needs to be in place during operation), and when the problem occurs the LED flashes on and off (one flash), indicating the control module is in ignition lockout mode.
I don't know what is causing this, and I'm not really any closer to knowing if this is a faulty pressure switch, a bad flame sensor, or something else. Any suggestions for how to isolate the problem so I can replace the appropriate part?


texts: How to clean hard soap scum and lime from bathtub?

texts:
All this dirt has been on the bathtub for like a year or so since the previous owner just remodelled my house before we bought it and he didn't live there. I read many articles and videos to learn how to do it but none of them worked at all. The following items are the ones we tried:

Used bleach and scrubbed it. We filled the bathtub with extremely hot water and poured bleach in it and scrubbed it later.
Used Mr. Clean Magic sponge.
Used Green Works, Kaboom etc. None of them worked even slightly.
Used many other chemicals and no luck.

What worked for us was using pumice stone and it really worked but it was too much work and pain. It scrubbed out all the dirts (with some residue left) but didn't really make it look like new and shiny.

I wonder if there is any one who can recommend a better way to clean up the bathtub. So far what we learned from internet didn't work at all :/

I believe our bathtub is made of ceramic and it is a hard material compared to what we used to have that was fiberglass.


texts: What would cause a Spur Switch light to go off when the device is turned on?

texts:
I have a fused spur switch in my kitchen with a dishwasher attached. Recently the dishwasher stopped turning on, so I removed it from the bay and noticed two things.

The neon light is quite dim.
When turning on the dishwasher (which never appears on), the neon light seems completely unlit.
I have uploaded a video to youtube demoing this behaviour.

The dishwasher has been working for the last six months without fault so far.

It is a UK 240V (50Hz) wired house, but presumably whatever electronic engineering principals would apply to this circuit generally.

What would cause this?


texts: How to fill soil void along basement wall?

texts:
The previous homeowners did not keep up with the downspouts and some erosion occurred.  All of the drains to the street are great and I have reconnected the downspouts to the drain pipes; some were apart my multiple inches when I dug them up under the downspout, right against the house.  All small leaks have stopped in the basement except for one.  I have a poured foundation.

In my front corner of the house, the water had eroded a tunnel about the size of my arm, along the exterior of the basement wall, at about a 45 degree angle for about two yards, and then it goes straight down.  I collapsed the tunnel about 2 feet down with a spud bar and that has helped, but with heavy rains, water collects in that void and it comes in the basement.  The pressure is very small compared to before as it used to squirt into the basement a few feet like squirt gun!

I know I can buy a kit that involves drilling holes from the interior and fills the void on the exterior side of the wall, but could I pour something in the void from the top of the exterior side?  I wished I would have tackled this when I had it dug up about two feet down.  I was thinking just a a thin concrete mix would help but now I am wondering if their is a pourable foam product I could use... or just get one of those aforementioned kits.


texts: What type of subfloor should be used for Engineered hardwood flooring installed on grade concrete slab?

texts:
I would like to install engineered hardwood flooring over a concrete slab which is on grade. It is the first floor of the house, there is no basement and the house was built in the 1990's. I have seen vapor barrier sheets, DRIcore vapor barrie/plywood tiles, as well as other methods used underneath the engineered hardwood. Would it make sense to seal the concrete slab and then place DRIcore as well as a foam underlayment down below the flooring? Or would DRIcore or a vapor barrier with an underlayment be enough? Would it be recommended to lay the floor floating or glued down? Or if using the DRIcore, could the flooring be stapled down? I would appreciate all advice! Thank you!

I am in NYC, not in a flood zone and the backyard and front driveway are all properly graded away from the house. There doesn't seem to be any evidence of flooding or water damage. The floor is currently tiled. But I think that was an aethetic thing, as the former owner tiled every room of the house including the second floor.


texts: I have the same exact set up as the photo on Decrease apartment intercom door buzzer volume and am trying to figure out how to disable the doorbell/buzzer without disconnecting door and intercom access. The brand name on the front panel is Jeron.  One tag inside the panel shows 3/92 the other 2015.  2015 has nothing to do with installation as I've been in the same unit since 2008.


texts: Was expecting to find just 3 simple wires (b, w, g) and be able to hook up this ceiling fan quite easily but found this when taking out the old fan...3 sets of wires, #1 with 2 black and 1 white, #2 with 2 white, and #3 with 1 black. How would I go about wiring this to the new ceiling fan? Thanks!


texts: Green Glue with wall tiles for soundproofing?

texts:
Wall Tiles
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B016UPADF0/

I'm thinking of adding soundproofing to my home's bedroom using these tiles and Green Glue. There is only 1 shared wall + door between this bedroom and the rest of the house.

My hope is the soundproofing comes from the Green Glue (not the tiles) which is supposed to adsorb sound and exchange it for heat: https://www.greengluecompany.com/
The tiles are only there to support the Green Glue, and for aesthetics.

Would that work? Any risks? Would you say I still need to add extra soundproofing behind the drywall?

The goal is to keep sounds inside the bedroom. So, for example, it won't travel to other bedrooms and wake people up. Sounds I'm trying to damper are TV or.. erm.. being with the wife.


texts: Hole in granite countertop for kitchen faucet slightly small

texts:
The hole for a faucet in my granite countertop is 1 1/4 inch.  This limits my selection for faucets.  I'm wondering if I can make the hole bigger without spending an arm and a leg.
I have lots of woodworking tools, and I could make a template with a hole the correct size, and use something like strong double-stick tape to hold it in place.  I'm imagining something functionally like a diamond router bit like you'd do edge routing.  But i don't know if anything like this exists, or whether it would even work.  I suppose I'd need to take off at least 1/8".