texts: Running a New Telephone Wire For Master Socket - Cross Over Electrical Cables

texts:
I have moved into a property that was built in the 1930's so the walls are double wall cavity and also inside the house its all rock solid brick.

This causes me an issue whereby the Master Telephone Socket is in my hallway right in the middle of the walkway so at present my Sky Q Router sits on its side on the floor, obviously this causes an issue both for it getting kicked over and a trip hazard.

I've decided to wire in a new master socket behind my tv in the living room (I know BT would have issue with this). My question is my cable goes out of my living room wall into my garage the intention is to travel down my internal garage wall but it would pass my Electrical Meter located in the garage also (including my fuse box etc.).

My query is this am I going to affect my line quality by crossing my new telephone cable over my electrical cables? I understand my telephone line is low voltage and it isn't wise to run it in tandem next to electrical wire however I am just 'crossing-over' to get outside the property to get to the IDC Junction Box that connects my telephone pole wire to the house.

Sorry for the essay but thought it best to give all the facts.


texts: Lights blink when toggling ceiling fan in another room

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I have a ceiling fan with light in room A. I have recessed lights in room B.
I noticed that if I have the ceiling fan set as Fan-On and Light-Off, and I switch the fan's wall switch (fan and light is the same switch) to on or off, the recessed LED lights in room B will blink once.
Room B's lights do not blink if I have both fan and light set as on or fan is set to off.
Is this a wiring problem? Or is that some special electrical behavior involving a motor? Could this cause problem with device sharing the same circuit?


texts: Frigidaire ffle4033qt0 tub won’t spin or agitate

texts: So, I had a sheet stuck under agitator so I started to take things apart underneath such as the motor/gear/tranny.  I took off back of motor which was my electromagnet and then reinstalled exactly how it was.  Got sheet out by looking online which is what I should have done before.  I took all the bolts off underneath before I fixed it and the motor dropped about half an inch.  Then put everything back the way it was.  Didn’t work.  Motor seemed stuck.  Motor won’t spin freely either.  Seems like something is holding it back.  Actuator is good as well as I tested it.  So what do I do?  Worked fine until I took all bolts out and took motor back off.  But I reinstalled everything how it was.  Idk.  Thanks for your help.


texts: How to restore a curtain pole where the rawl plugs have torn themselves out of the wall

texts:
My curtain pole has fallen down tearing the rawl plugs out with it and leaving two messy holes.
How can I get the curtain pole back up securely? Ideally in the same holes so that it covers the damage and the curtains are in the same place, though I suppose I could move it horizontally then refill the old holes?
The wall appears to be plasterboard.


texts: Mansfield 4000 series outdoor frost-free faucet leaking from inside the stem tube

texts: I have a 12-in Mansfield 4000 series outdoor frost-free faucet (according to this). It's leaking from inside the stem tube (labeled "1") only when water is turned on. Removing the stem from the faucet, I cannot see light from the stem tube end. However, when I carefully dripped water into the stem tube, a little of that water came out from the holes labeled "2". This makes me suspect that there might be a hole (I assume I have to replace the entire stem in this case) or a deteriorated washer inside the stem. Is Prier a new owner of the Mansfield brand? According to them, the stem should never leak this way.


texts: How do I paint old brass fireplace doors?

texts: Have old brass fireplace doors.  Would like them black or some other color.  Can I paint these?  If so do I need to take the glass out?  And with what paint?


texts:
I am putting to together a dip station (for the exercise) in my house that I bought online.

The damn carriage bolt is turning with the nut. I know how to use tools but not exactly "Mr D.I.Y".  What can I do to get the damn thing to stop rotating?!


texts: Does it matter if I mix neutrals and grounds in the main panel?

texts:
Code question here.  I do a lot of electrical and like to follow code exactly.  I have done pretty much everything but hook up lines to main box.  Taking a stab at it this time.

First I see that I have circuit breakers in middle with hot going into them and then on each side the neutrals and grounds are connected to a row of screws (on each side).  Does it matter what screws I put my ground and neutral in?  It looks random right now almost.  Also if I flip the main power breaker does that mean I can't get shocked when attaching new breaker?

And then last question - I only have one entry hole left for the breaker box on top.  Well I need to put a few more lines in.  It is in a basement so everything is coming from the top.  What is the code for going around the bottom to enter in a hole there?  Not sure I can run the wire behind the box - so can I just wrap the wire around box?  Really want this done right.  What do you suggest?


texts:
Purchased and installed a Delta T17T238 shower trim set in 2011.
Perusing the included "Installation Instructions" manual, I encountered the following warranty verbiage:

Well, Goggle was not my friend, and Delta's Customer Service email interface seems to be down at the moment.
Any insight as to what "HDF" stands for?


texts: Floor sagging between joist- please help

texts:
I recently bought an old home- 102 years old and have some flooring issues. The long story is we bought it knowing it had foundation problems in the rear right corner. The home had a poured concrete foundation with the exception of the rear back of the house that had 3 ft added on and a brick and mortar foundation that needed to be repaired. Basically with the brick was crumbling and had sank about a foot- pulling the house down on that side by about 10-12 inches.

We had the brick removed and replaced with rebar and a poured foundation in that area but the damage to the floor inside remains. When they replaced the foundation they did jack it up maybe an inch to replace everything but considering the age and how much it sagged we did not want the house to be jacked up back to its original level state.

It’s a two story home with original hardwood flooring that we have had restored. The subflooring in that rear room is damaged and basically is very spongy in places. I was told one way to fix it was to jack the existing subfloor up between the joist with and add a “subfloor” (plywood) and secure it in place by nailing 2x4 to the existing joist on either side to hold my new subfloor in place. I don’t want to compromise those existing joists though and this seems like a really good way to do that.

Is there another option out there or is this a legitimate way of fixing the problem without ripping up these beautiful 100 year old floors? There is a conventional foundation so I can crawl around there without issue.


texts: Will 1/4" plywood on existing 1/2" plywood suffice under 1/2" cement board for ceramic floor tile?

texts: I'm doing a bathroom with ceramic tile. The subfloor is 1/2" plywood, with joists 16" on center. Can I glue down 1/4" plywood to make it 3/4"? I will use 1/2" cement board with mortar after that. Or can I just lay the 1/2" cement board on the 1/2" plywood?


texts:
I flooded my kitchen a few days ago. One of the consequences is that the wood veneer sheet that covers the gap below my oven has curled up after being soaked in water (see pictures below). Does anyone know how to fix this?
Some points

This damage is cosmetic. This veneer is a thin sheet attached to the base of my kitchen cabinets, so it blocks a gap.
The material appears to be a thin piece of wood with some fiber- or paper-like layer
I tried pushing it back but it has hardened in place and almost cracked when I did so.
I was wondering it helps to partially wet it again. If that makes it soft, I could flatten it and use a heavy object to hold it in place for a few days
If wetting it doesn't help, does heating with a hair drier soften it, so I can reshape it?

Thanks a lot in advance


texts: How to make an underground connection to 4 inch clay drain pipe

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I need to connect to an existing 4" clay drain pipe opening that will be underground, and I don't want dirt/sand to enter the joint.  Are there connector pieces that form a tight joint?  For extra protection, would it make sense to wrap the joint in landscaping fabric held by zipties?

Thanks


texts:
My water heater vent runs to the basement wall. Right underneath (maybe 6 inches) is an opening (I’m not sure if that runs to where the vent goes out or not). Attaching a picture. Is there any reason the opening is there and shouldn’t be covered, or should I go get something to cover that with?  Since hot air rises probably not an issue, but I guess if wind gets in it could blow in?

Thanks for any insight.


texts: Should a bathtub be installed on a concrete slab or the subfloor that will be installed over the slab?

texts:
I am currently finishing my basement and looking to install a bathtub. I have already decided that I will be using a sub-floor in the basement.

My question is: Should I place the bathtub directly on the concrete or place a subfloor down first then install the bathtub?


texts: Is there ever a reason to fuse the neutral rather then the hot line in a small appliance?

texts: This question relates to 120V small appliance wiring in the USA.  I repair small motorized appliances called microcentrifuges that are used in laboratories, and specialize in models made by a particular German manufacturer - Eppendorf. One particular model has a single 6A fuse and I always assumed that this fuse was in the "hot" line.  However, I had one of these models fail and it tripped the circuit breaker without blowing the fuse.  Looking for the fault, I found that one brush holder in the motor had come loose and contacted the motor frame which is connected to the protective ground.  Tracing back I found that power coming in from the three wire power cord went to a brown, blue and green/yellow wire internally and that the brown and blue wires went to the main switch (DPST).  The yellow/green wire went to the metal case as expected.  The blue wire was switched to a black wire and the brown wire to a white wire running to the main circuit board.  The black wire led to the fused leg in the circuit board.  I read that brown is the color for the hot leg and blue for the neutral in European wiring.  To me this means that the hot and neutral crossed at the switch.  Of course, this crossing might have been done by someone, like me, who was unfamiliar with the European color code.  But every unit of this model I have looked at (tens) is wired the same.  I have exchanged the wires on a few units, so that brown is switched to black and blue to white, but am worried that I am missing something.  There is actually a spot for a second fuse on the circuit board, but this is always jumped with a wire on the units I see.  It is used for units wired for 240V in other countries - two 2.5A fuses instead of the single 6A - according to legend on circuit board. And the power coming in does go through a line conditioner, if this is the right term for the small metal box that the power cord plugs into and has the brown, blue and Yellow/green wires coming out of it, if this might make a difference.  To further complicate matters, the model that preceded the one I am discussing here is wired as I would expect with only the hot leg fuse protected.


texts: My HVAC A/C is freezing after sundown every day

texts: I recently replaced the capacitor on my external A/C unit. After replacement it started back up and was working fine for day or two but for the last 4 days it has been freezing up every single night after sundown. It's about 85 deg F. during the day and it runs fine and keeps the house at 70 degrees all day long. Air flow is normal and unrestricted all day. But almost immediately after sundown it starts to slowly freeze to the point where I have to turn it off and run just the fan overnight. I turn it back on every morning and it does the same thing. I have absolutely no clue what's causing it since the unit works perfectly during the day when the temps and humidity are at their highest, but after sundown it freezes.


texts: Repair A Blacktop Asphalt Driveway or hire a pro?

texts:
I have an asphalt driveway.
I have:

two 1/8" deep indents (from car tires)
separation from the garage floor
a big spider crack in the center
dull/worn look

How do I DIY repair?  Or is this better left to a pro?


texts: How to put a clean hole in concrete block?

texts:
I am building a brick wall from concrete blocks. Note that these concrete blocks just provide a facade, don't hold any weight except an additional layer of same bricks above them.
The blocks are 4" high, I want to run a 2" pipe through the middle. The 2" PVC pipe should fit snugly. Is there any certain kind of drill/bit I should add to my electric drill to do this work?
I   have a very cheap corded power drill and a battery-powered one as well.
Is there a  certain kind of drill bit I should add to my electric drill to do this work?


texts: Can you do electrical work yourself in the UK?

texts:
I have been told that you are not allowed to do any electrical work yourself in the UK and need a qualified electician to do it all.

Is this true?
What can you do yourself?


texts:
I have a Comfort home control system. This takes 15V AC via a transformer (from 240V). It's been working for years, but last week the fuse blew. It's a 250mA fuse on the mains side of the transformer.

With power off I checked the impedance on the 240V side of the transformer and it shows about 80 Ohms. Is that too low? By my reckoning that would mean 3A, which would blow the fuse. I'm guessing that insulation in the windings could have broken down and caused a short. Does this sound reasonable or am I misunderstanding how the transformer works?


texts: Wiring a bulb holder to a plug, what cable to use?

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I want to wire a bulb holder like this one, to a plug using some flex cable, so i can use it like a lead light / inspection light, move it to different places etc...

So I just want to check that I'm going about this correctly with regards to the wiring. The holders only have a live and neutral connection and no earth, so my plan is to use 2 core 1.5mm2 flex cable (no earth) about 15m long (like this) run directly into the plug with a 3A fuse. Is this ok? Or should I be using 3 core anyway and just terminating the earth in the lamp holder?

(I'll be using a 60w led bulb, if that matters...)

Thanks for any advice you can give..

(in the UK btw)


texts:
Drainage in my bathroom is keep getting clogged. I tried using a snake by drilling manually ... poured at least 4 cans of Drain clog remover on different time period... in the last 3 days.. however, drainage is getting clogged .. it takes so much of time for water to drains through the drainage.

I wonder, is there a better or best chemical which can remove the clogs?


texts: Aluminum wiring with dark discolouration on outside

texts:
We are in the process of doing renovations on a home which was built in the early 70s in Toronto. The home has aluminum wiring in most places except the basement which was completed later.

When some walls were removed we noted that sheathing on some of the wiring is discoloured, looking almost burnt. Is this "normal" with aluminum wiring? Any thoughts on what could have caused this? How do you recommend that we address this?

Again appreciate any pointers from the experts here.
Thanks


texts: thermostat assembly verification for electric oven (with pictures)

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I am diagnosing issue with my electric oven which does not engage heat element.

Basically it's thermostat (BA, BR, C) -> relays -> heat elements (2 top, 1 bottom). hardwired.

I disassemble the thermostat and want to confirm if assembly is correct for anyone that is familiar with these types of thermostats.

When I disassemble the thermostat the parts imploded due to spring release and didn't have enough time to view.

So I put back together based on best possible configuration, and came up with the following (pictures below).

However, I notice there is always continuity at the leads regardless of whether it's pressed or depressed.

Which doesn't seem right to me.
Should thermostat always be under load?

You can see two springs, when the knob is turned/pushed forward it pushes the bracket which is supposed to engage the contacts/leads at the black part of the box.

Does this look about correct to you?

Thanks for any feedback.


texts: I just moved in to a new apartment and somehow broke small platform near window (where you are supposed to put plants I guess). How can I fix this as I don't want my landlord to keep my deposit :(


texts: Wildfire smoke : old electronic air cleaner or normal pleated filter better?

texts: The house we live in has an old electronic air cleaner attached to the furnance. It's a Honeywell F50E 1182. We have lots of wildfire smoke in the PNW right now and am wondering if using this system or putting a regular pleated insert in like they do in this video would be better at filtering out wildfire smoke. I have a 20x20x4 filter I could put in if so.


texts: It is dangerous to have a power outlet run from a light circuit?

texts:
Re this answer regarding wiring a garage door power point from a light is this legal I thought it wasn't but just checking.

Edit: Legality will depend on location as mentioned in answers, I worded my question wrong the answers have shown that. What I should have asked is what are the dangers of doing this.


texts: Can I use a UPS as a Voltage Stabilizer?

texts:
I need a voltage stabilizer for my refrigerator. Can I use a UPS for this?

I own an APC Back-UPS marked "Output: 230V~, 2.6A, 50/60Hz...". The label on the fridge says "220V/50Hz". Can I use this UPS as a voltage stabilizer for the fridge?

Update: Strangely, the label behind the fridge says 85W, 220V and 1A.


texts: "Floor Flange" or something similar for 1/2 copper pipe

texts:
I'm running a water line for a refrigerator ice maker. Currently it seems like the cleanest way to do this will be to tap into a cold water line in the crawlspace under where the fridge goes and come up through the floor behind the fridge.

I'd like to find a fitting to anchor the pipe where it comes through the floor. Is there such a thing as a solder floor flange, or another way of doing this with common (e.g., available at Home Depot or the like) parts?


texts: Is it possible to put portable air conditioner outside the house?

texts:
I don't know if this has been done before, because because I rent, can not do any installation therefore a slip and window A/C is not an option for me and only portable is okay. But I heard that the portable is noisy.

So I wonder if it is possible to put the outside in the backyard (my window faces the backyard) and make some modification to the portable A/C by connecting the cold air to the hose through the window into the room.

Is that possible?


texts: Can I install drywall on the ceiling, without removing crown molding?

texts:
I'm in the process of replacing a failing plaster ceiling in my finished basement with drywall.  I originally had intended only to scrape down the popcorn finish and have it skim coated, so I did not initially try and remove the molding.  Once I got down to the original plaster and saw the extent of the repairs that would be needed, I decided it was going to be more cost effective to just replace it.  I had already draped the room in plastic from the molding down, and it was looking tough to get a pry bar in there, so I left it figuring I could remove the majority of the ceiling and then remove it when I had access from above.

Well now I have that access, but it still looks to be a challenge:

It is 85 years old, and while it's in great aesthetic condition, in reality, the wood is dried and quite fragile.  If I try to remove it, I'm likely to end up damaging some pieces.
The bottom portion of the molding is flush with the plaster walls and it is nailed directly into the lath, maybe even glued?  When I tried to gently pry it off, the whole plaster surface moved along with the molding.

So given this, I'm wondering if I can get away with installing the drywall without removing the molding?  There is 3/4" of space between the joists and the molding, so 1/2" drywall would fit fine, and due to slight unevenness in the joists I need to shim down about 1/4" anyway.

Is this a terrible idea, or does anybody have tricks for gently removing old crown molding from plaster?  It would be easier to hang the drywall with the molding off, as I could strap the ceiling and shim the strapping.  As is, if I did this I guess I would have to shim the joists themselves with plywood strips.

EDIT: The crown molding is stained oak, which means pretty much any nick shows and damage of any substantial size is tough to re-stain to the right color.  I am pretty attached to it, so I'd prefer to keep it intact.


texts: Why is there a large walled off space in the middle of my basement?

texts:
I just moved in a couple months back and noticed that this wall was a lot thicker than expected, lots of unaccounted for space.  I was honestly expecting to find a body in there :P glad I didn't!

The space is only accessible from above, between the joists in the ceiling. I stuck my arm over the wall with phone camera in hand.

The wall is obviously supporting the joists, but I don't know why there are two cinder block walls with about 1 or 1.5 ft between them.

Has anyone seen this before or have any idea why it was done?

I'm planning to increase insulation and do air-sealing, but have no idea how to deal with this space!?  One of its sides is an un-insulated exterior wall :(

Video (spider-web warning!):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vvb3f9qdh0eat2e/VID_20190824_122226.mp4?dl=0


texts:
I'm planning to build a fairly small patio at the back (2.5m x 2.5m), and instead of pavers I will place concrete slabs (60cm x 60cm x 4cm). Would it be fine to use construction waste, such as concrete lumps, bricks pieces, fist-sizes rocks for the first layer base, and stone dust as the second layer? If so, how thick I should have the first layer?

If it matters, I'm in Canada, Ottawa, and in this area we normally don't expect lots of water to drain, so I think this fact will affect the base structure.

Thanks.


texts: Well water sanitizing and ph balancing questions

texts:
The water in our well is fairly acidic (PH 5.6).  The only filtration that it has is one of those generic single stage water filter systems.  We also have had occasional problems with heavy rain causing ground water contamination.  When it does this the water gets cloudy and tests positive for coliform bacteria.

I've been treating it with Chlorox when this happens and then drain the well for 12 hours or so, basically a couple hours after a pool test kit has shown no chlorine is present.

I looked into getting the well sealed, but a camera in the well showed there are big enough cracks in the drill hole that the well guy didn't think a liner would necessarily fix things.

I've looked at getting a better water filtration system including a UV light to kill any bateria.  I'd also like to neutralize the acidity of the well water.  I understand that one problem repeatedly chlorinating a well is that there are carcinogenic compounds this creates.  Does anyone know what the carcinogenic compounds are and if can I get them tested for?  I'm concerned that treating the well with a strong base will have a similar effect to chlorinating it.  Hopefully calcite won't generate these carcinogenic compounds.

-Eric


texts: Adjustment of Door closer screws for holding door in fully open position

texts:
Door closer in attached/linked photo controls both opening and closing of door but
My door closer is not allowing/holding(stand still) the door in fully open position since last week(it was actually working fine before that and it holded door in fully open position)

I want that my door remains in fully open position unless i close the door when i go inside

Which of the screws shown in photo i need to tune and how


texts: Bathroom fan duct connection for maintainability

texts:
There are many questions on here about installing duct work for bathroom fans, but I have a more specific question. I am planning to use rigid duct for a new bathroom fan where there was none previously. The fan is installed under the attic floor, which is currently removed for other work. After the floor is re-installed and the attic room re-finished, I would like to be able to replace the bathroom fan (as I will probably have to some day) without having to cut additional holes in the bathroom ceiling (lathe and plaster) or attic floor.

How do I remove the bathroom fan from the ceiling if it is rigidly connected to the rigid duct? Most online videos show flex duct, and you can simply pull the sidewall part of the fan assembly down from the ceiling enough to disconnect the clamp. With rigid duct, this is obviously not possible.

My original plan was to connect the rigid duct to the fan with screws and mastic. Could there be some other method, like a clamp with rubber insert on the ID to hold a strong connection and provide an air seal, that could potentially be removable? I could imaging either wiggling the sidewall back and forth to pull it loose from such a clamp, or maybe reaching over the fan sidewall to loosen a securing nut (joist bays are only 2x6). Any suggestions are appreciated.


texts: What is the max wattage per sqft for heat floor wires?

texts:
I am wanting to use electric floor heating as my primary source of heat for a room we are remodeling.

My question is can I use more than 15 watts per sqft and still be within national building code requirements?

The spacing I want to use for the heating wire is going to be approximately 18 watts per sqft. Will that work??


texts: There is any simple way to forming handmade paper pulp?

texts: I want to know how can I make a form for forming handmade paper pulp for something like paper egg container. There is possible to make small hand press from for example wood/steel and pressing that pulp only by hand without special machines. Im thinking about something like that but the other shape not flat, maybe something like diamond shape. There is possible making something like paper egg container from only handmade paper pulp?


texts: We are remodelling our bathroom and installing a new toilet. When we took the existing toilet off, we found the cast iron flange was broken, brittle and in need of replacing. We could maybe get away with a spanner on the completely busted side, but the other side isn't very solid so we think we should just replace it. The problem is, the drain pipe is PVC. I know how to replace a cast iron flange if connected to lead pipe and a PVC flange if connected to PVC pipe, but not cast iron that is connected to PVC. Any words of wisdom? Also, it's a basement bathroom so no access to under the floor.


texts: Is my attic floor over my garage strong enough to use it for storage and maybe as a small work area?

texts:
I would like to use the attic space above my 2-car garage for storage of items around the house and garage, and if possible, utilize some of the space as a small work area. The previous owners left the space with some randomly placed pieces of particle board and other flat wood (including an old door!) over the joists to aid with walking around up there. I want to put down some consistent thickness plywood or good quality particle (fiber) board as flooring.

But first, I need to make sure that what I have is strong enough, and if not, get some good ideas on how to strengthen it adequately. I would like to get some expert advice regarding this.

I have included a set of photos that have text in them to help explain my situation and my questions. Thinking that strengthening is a good idea, I included some ideas I have for that, explained in the photos. I would like to know if my proposal is adequate to strengthen the floor sufficiently.

Please review what I've shown and explained and give me your feedback. It would be greatly appreciated!

After posting my questions and original photos, Chileab Construction gave me some great feedback and asked some good questions. Based on what I've learned I am proposing to add a steel H-beam across the span of my attic space in order to strengthen/stiffen the floor. Chileab asked about the load bearing points for the beam, so I took some additional pictures and created a couple of sketches (first sketch without the beam; second sketch with the proposed beam added) to help show this. I am looking forward to what Chileab Construction thinks about this idea (and others who might want to comment).

I read David French's question and I would like to answer him here. David asked how I attached the joists to the underside of the steel beam. What I did was use pieces of heavy gauge steel L-brackets that I bought at a local home improvement store (Menards). I used two L-brackets per joist, one at each side of the steel beam. It's been over 3 years now since I worked on this, but I believe I remember that I used 3/8" carriage bolts to attach each L-bracket to the joist (two carriage bolts per L-bracket). I used a washer under each nut, between the nut and the L-bracket. I believe I used locking nuts. For attaching the top of each L-bracket to the bottom flange of the steel H-beam I decided to create a "sandwich" type of joint using strips of fairly heavy weld steel "straps" (I think 1/8" thick), that I also bought at the home improvement store, along with a stack of thick washers. I used a heavy high grade steel 1/2" bolt to run through each L-bracket, the washer stack, and the steel strap. The result was a joint formed by clamping the edge of the beam flange between the steel strap and the L-bracket, with the stack of washers there to symmetrically load the bolt (distribute the clamp load across the washers and the beam flange edge, and not allow the edge of the beam flange to try to slip out). This is kind of hard to explain, so I will include some pictures that I took back at the time to hopefully help you see what I'm talking about. Something to note is that I had to grind off a good amount of each washer so that I could keep the 1/2" bolt close to the edge of the beam flange for best strength of the joint. (Each stack of washers thickness equaled the thickness of the beam flange.)

More views:


texts: Material on this deck - what, why, and how to cover?

texts:
I recently purchased a house that has an upper-floor deck above the front porch, with a shingled roof above that:

The upper floor deck, i.e. the part you can walk out on from the upper floor, has a dark black dusty material applied in sheets:

I thought I was looking at a thick rubber membrane intended to be the deck surface. However, after putting some plastic chairs on it on a hot day, I discovered it's actually more of a tar-like substance that smears and deforms under pressure, as you can see here from where the chair legs pushed it up into little mounds:

I believe this whole porch/deck structure was modernized/ refinished around 2012.
I have three questions about this:

What is the most likely material that I'm looking at on that upper deck?
Why would a material like that be used? To my untrained eye, after seeing the damage from the chairs, it seems to be a waterproofing rooftop material like Bitumen or tar or some such. Is it typical to put that down on a deck ppl are supposed to walk on? If so, is the assumption that something else is put on top to protect it?
Most important: how should I cover this so I can use this deck? Three thoughts I had were a) heavy outdoor carpeting/ area rug with thick rubber underside to protect it, b) interlocking deck tiles, or c) place strapping perpendicular to the face of the house to allow run off, apply press board over top and paint it. I'm most inclined toward the deck tiles but wonder if the plastic ridges on the underside will damage this roofing material.


texts: Removing sound dampening windows for cleaning

texts:
I have sound dampening windows in my new home, they follow the style of the other windows. While most are on tracks and removable, the large picture window in the living room has a stationary middle window.
Unfortunately the two windows (the normal house windows and the secondary sound dampening windows) are quite dirty and need to be cleaned.  I cannot figure out how to remove the sound dampening window.
There are brackets at the top, but removing them did nothing. The window still seems very installed or stationary.
Has anyone else encountered this?
Any suggestions?


texts: Would down-stuffed curtains stop heat loss through windows?

texts:
My home has some very big 6 ft by 8 ft windows likely a big source of heat loss and is contributing to high heat bills. It would be too expensive to replace them with modern vinyl windows and the products themselves are of high quality, just old and made of some kind of metal, so not energy efficient.
I know a seamstress who makes custom blankets for a few hundred dollars each. They can fill with any material, cotton, goose feathers, etc. I could request they make blankets the size of the windows, but with added holes so they are supported by curtain rods. Would such a product have a big affect on stopping heat loss through the windows?


texts: Will a short length of smaller size pipe affect flow rate or pressure?

texts:
Today a contractor installed a water line from the main to my house. During the tie in, the pipe continued to leak. The fitting thread was found to be defective, so the contractor placed  3/4 line about 16 inches from the main to the 1 inch line, and then fed the 1 inch to the house and water meter.

Will this 3/4 to 1 inch affect my flow or pressure? Is this ok to do? I am not 100% sure this was right.


texts: How should I hook up my generator to a manual transfer switch?

texts:
I have a couple of questions about hooking up a generator to a manual transfer switch and I'm really hoping somebody with knowledge can help guide me here.  The idea is I will have an exterior weather-proof plug that I can plug the generator directly into outside, and have that plug wired to a transfer switch inside that is wired to my main panel (only the circuits I plan to use if the power goes out - probably 10 circuits).  The specs of my generator that I think are relevant are below.  I think my questions will be pretty basic for somebody experienced with this.

10,000 watt peek surge output, 8000 rated
15HP, 420cc, Air Cooled, OHV, 4 stroke engine (horizontal shaft)
Regulator: Automatic Voltage Regulator
Low oil shutoff system
4 standard outlets. Fully protected 110V.
1 twist-lock outlet. 240V 30amp outlet, NEMA L14-30R
1 twist-lock outlet. 120V 30amp outlet, NEMA L5-30R
1 DC outlet, 12V, 8.3amp. Convenient for charging any 12V battery
Max Current 60Amp @ 120V, 30Amp @ 240V

My main house entrance panel is 200AMP.

My questions are:

Would I only want to plug into the 240V outlet and run that cord to an exterior 240V plug and then wire that to the transfer switch?  Would that power everything I need?  I don't plan to ever run the dryer during a power outage (will dry clothes near the wood stove).  Is there anything else that would use 240V?  If I am not running anything in my house that is 240V is it better to run from the 120V plug on the generator?
When the last listed spec above (Max Current 60Amp @ 120V, 30Amp @ 240V) says Max Current 30Amp @240V, this means that I can draw a maximum of 30 amps simultaneously with the 240V output?
Why does it say "Max Current 60Amp @ 120V" when just above that it says "1 twist-lock outlet. 120V 30amp outlet, NEMA L5-30R"?  Is the 120V outlet 30 amp or 60 amp?
Also, do I need a 60 amp transfer switch to get the maximum out of this generator or 30 amp?  or higher?

I know it's a lot of questions but hopefully somebody can answer them.


texts: Stiffen Floor with bridging between open web floor Trusses?

texts:
The subfloors in my new construction home are pretty squeaky and there is a good amount of deflection. I am looking at some simple DIY things that I can do hopefuly reduce the bounce and squeaks. Most of my basement ceiling is drywalled, but there are a few places where it is open.
The first thing I plan to try is to look for gaps between subfloor and the support system to shim in some pieces.
I also read about adding metal bridging. When looking at this article, I noticed I have a different type of joist system - open web floor trusses so I wanted to see if the same fix applies since I do not see any existing bridging. The article mentioned something about approval: Don’t add bridging to manufactured lumber like I-joists or truss joists until you consult an engineer or building inspector. and I am not sure if this applies to me or not? I also see a few places where they sistered some wood and those cracked. I'm not 100% on all the terms, so I don't want to google and use the wrong techniques. There is also a lot of board separation above the subfloor - I mention this in case it is also relevant.
Here are some photos, I would like to know recommendations and other techniques that may be appropriate for this area. I have a few areas where pipes run along the support system.


texts: Better to excavate in the spring or winter?

texts:
This is a somewhat subjective question, so I am looking for a general principle rather than a specific, exact answer.

In New England, the building season is mostly the spring and summer. So, winter is off peak. This makes it easier and cheaper to find contractors during the winter. On the other hand, excavation during the winter is harder because the top 4 feet or so of soil freezes. So, on one hand it is cheaper because it is off peak, but on the other it is more expensive because of frozen ground. Which factor dominates? Are there other factors that are key? Should I prefer doing an excavation in the winter or spring?

The scope of the excavation is about 800 cubic yards.


texts: How to repair a crack along the grain in a solid block of wood from a single tree?

texts:
Approximately 3 years ago I purchased a slice of a log, approximately 50 cm (~1.5') wide at the widest place, approximately 2.5-3 meters (~9-10') long, and about 4-5cm thick (I don't have exact measurements with me right now, will add them in a comment later, if necessary and will add photos if necessary, also later). I think the wood is pine, but am unsure at this moment. The piece was cut into two pieces (~2m and ~1m).

One was treated (by me) with an oil based coating ("Yacht Varnish") with two or three (can't remember now) fairly thick  coats, from all sides. I don't know whether this is a mistake or not (let me know!) but I did not fill the imperfections first, but rather tried to put enough of the varnish to coat them as well.

The other, after some time, was treated with two coats of water based laquer which gave is a nicer matte finish, in order for it not to be exposed to the elements.

The long piece was attached at the ends (screwed with 2 corner joints on each end, such that it was resting on the joints) to a wall and a concrete column. The shorter piece did not find a use.

After about a year the shorter piece developed a crack along the middle, with the grain. I did nothing about it. After we moved I turned the bar piece into a bench by screwing 4 feet into it. I did not remove the corners from the wood as I thought it might ruin the thread there, and allow moisture to enter the wood (planned to use them to add hand rests at the ends).

Despite the fact that it felt very sturdy and that people sat on it a handful of time for a total time of maybe an hour, the board developed a fairly wide (3mm I think, at its widest) crack along the grain, around the middle of the bench.

So, I have two questions:
1. I presume I treated the wood badly or this would not have happened. What should I have done differently?
2. What can I do now to stop the crack from spreading and to make the bench safe for sitting without fear of breakage? Most of all I want to avoid sanding it again as I don't have the proper place to do it and don't want to breath wood/lacquer dust.

In regard to Q. 2, I thought about adding a frame undernear, shaped as H or as a rectangle. I thought that maybe the crack didn't develop earlier since the corners did not allow the wood to expand, and now that there is nothing holding them, it did expand in an uneven manner? or perhaps that the presence of the corners did not allow the ends to expand with the middle, and it was bound to happen anyway, with the way it was affixed?

Thanks in advance for all the answers!

Edit:

Just measured: The cut piece is ~1.5m x 40cm  x 4cm. The largest crack is about 1 mm wide and 50cm long.

Photos:
The crack at the end I think has been from some time after cutting the smaller part off and before the varnish:

(http://i.imgur.com/CgnBjeM.jpg)

First part of the crack (it is one long crack with varying width):

(http://i.imgur.com/AeAREE3.jpg)

Second part of the crack:


texts: How to frame bypass doors with metal studs?

texts:
I am using metal studs (25ga steel) in my basement for a room. This room will have a closet with two sets of bypass sliding doors. The doors are 30" wide (and fairly heavy) and with a 1" overlap, will require a finished opening of 59" for each set.
My understanding is that the metal studs probably won't support the weight of these doors on a track so I will need to install a 2x4 frame with a header. What size header will I need and how big of an opening should I be leaving to account for the wood framing, header, and probably 3/4" door frames. Anything else I need to consider?


texts: I would like to know if it is possible to have a relay control power to a sub panel? I am thinking of wiring a cottage with most of the lights in one sub panel. I would like to be able to power this off / on via a switch at the front door. When I leave I hit the relay and power is cut to most of the lights. Is this feasible?


texts: Water has quit running thru my humidifier.

texts: Furnace humidifier dry as a bone.  have changed the filter, duh, that is the only thing I know how to do! Bottom line, there is no water running through it.


texts: How much should brick "give" when pushing against it?

texts:
My wife and I are having a home built by a local contractor.  The house is wood framed construction with a brick exterior.  The home is nearly complete -- just interior trim and paint work remains.

When I pushed against the exterior brick, I could hear the trim on the eaves flexing.  Should the brick give at all?  Also does Alabama have any building requirements addressing this?  I'm not sure if they used brick ties or if they are even required since the walls aren't load bearing.


texts:
I was installing a new bath fan and had it all done. I was cleaning up the wires in the attic and accidentally put a staple through the wire as I was securing it to the lumber. I put some electrical tape around it and seems to be working.

There is not enough slack in the wire for me to cut it at the point where I pierced it. So my question is, do I need to have an electrician come out and replace or repair it, or is the electrical tape a safe solution?

Thank you.


texts: How do I test to make sure my panel is grounded correctly and all the bonding is correct?

texts:
We recently did a service panel upgrade, added a breaker that goes to the subpanel in the garage, installed two ground rods, connected the ground rod to a cold water pipe, bonded the cold-hot-gas pipes at the water heater.

Is there a way for me to test that this is all done correctly...i.e. there's a continuous path to the grounding rods.

Do I use a multimeter and test for continuity?  Do I measure potential?
If I were to do the above, at what points would I do it in the path/circuit?

How do I test that the subpanel in the garage is grounded correctly?


texts: What breathable alternatives to lime render are available?

texts:
There seems to be a lot of conflicting information online. There doesn’t seem to be any doubt that putting sand and cement on a solid wall Victorian is a dumb idea but is it really the case that you have to resort to lime render?

A lot of companies quote that their render is breathable. Krend, Parex, Weber, Vimark, Baumit etc then refuse to publish any stats about the breathability of their product. It seems like it’s a positive quality you want in your render for older properties but none of these guys can back up their claims.

Modern breathable render. Does it exist or is traditional lime rendering the only serious option for Victorian properties even today.


texts: How to achieve a sun-bleached effect with wood stain

texts:
I have a new wood shelf that I am trying to stain to a sun-bleached colour.  I believe the wood is pine.  Before staining, I sanded thoroughly with grit 60, 100, 150, 220.  I also used a conditioner before the staining.

My finished stained shelf has significant portions in which the stain is not absorbing.  So far, I have put two coats on.  Are more coats needed?

I have read on a couple of web sites lately that said to add a sealer before staining instead of after.  Has anyone tried that?  If I seal it now and then add a coat of stain, would that fix the problem?

Any tips are appreciated.


texts: Can I skim coat a painted interior concrete block wall? If so, with what & how?

texts:
Can I skim coat a painted interior concrete block wall?  If so:

What can I use to prepare the wall?
What material should I use (joint compound, plaster, other)?

All DIY so simpler the better.


texts: Is there a through-the-wall A/C that works with external thermostats?

texts: Our two-story A-frame house only has duct-work downstairs in the crawl-space, with vents in the floor. It gets quite hot upstairs during the summer, but because the square footage of the upper floor is less than downstairs, we were thinking it might be more economical to go with a through-the-wall air conditioner upstairs. But I'm a big fan of the Nest thermostat, so I'm trying to find an A/C unit that would accept an external thermostat. Any ideas where to start? Google just arbitrarily decides whether to apply "wall-mount" to "thermostat" or "air conditioner" but not to both.


texts: What size posts do I need to use to build a wooden driveway gate?

texts:
I have just built a 6 foot fence all the way around my property. To finish it offI need to build a driveway gate. The gate will be 15 feet wide and have two swing gate sections. I have used 4x4x8 foot posts buried approximately 26" and cemented.

I was considering bolting two posts together and burying them at the same depth, but I am concerned that it still may not be enough support. The gates will have wheels on the bottom also.


texts: Low water pressure to kitchen sink after installing new water heater

texts:
I installed a tankless water heater and now the kitchen sink has low pressure.

I checked the aerator and cleaned it out, still low pressure.
I filled a container with water with the aerator both On and Off of the hose, 47 seconds to fill with aerator on, 43 seconds to fill with it off.

Need some advice on where else to check - other than about the aerator, please.

**used PEX tubing and shark bite unions for new water heater.  Connected back to main water lines (cpvc).


texts: I have bought a new ceiling rose for a light. The wires in it are UK pre-2004. There's one black, two red, one yellow, one blue, and two green and yellow earth. Where do all these go on the ceiling rose?


texts: 8' Ikea Countertop Desk Build - Support Question

texts:
I'm working on building a custom 8' long desk using the Ikea "Karlby" countertop in walnut. I'm planning to put hairpin legs on each of the four corners, but since the span of the desk is so long, I know I will need some sort of support in the center to prevent the desk from sagging.

The simplest option is just to add 2 legs in the center of the desk, one in the front and one in the rear, which I think should be sufficient to prevent sagging (I don't think the countertop will sag over a 4' span). However, I'd like to avoid having a leg in the front center, as that limits the space available under the desk (I can't roll between workspaces under the desk). My solution would be to only place a leg in the rear of the desk, but I am worried that that will not provide enough support along the front edge (e.g. when I lean on the desk).

The other option I considered was to use angle irons to support the span. I was considering using a set up depicted in the quick sketch below, with an angle iron in both the front and the rear, spanning between the legs. In the front, the angle iron would hang beneath the desk, and in the rear, the angle iron would hug the back edge of the desk. The angle irons would rest directly on the legs (under the desk). However, after a lot of research (and some very amateur calculations), I'm not certain whether 1.5" angle irons would really provide enough rigidity across an 8' span. I'm hesitant to move up to 2" angles, since that will negatively affect the space under the desk (the angle will hang down into the leg space), and I'm still not certain that they will provide enough rigidity.

Any thoughts on this configuration, or the best way to support this desk without impacting usable space?

Edit: To make the scope of this question a little narrower, can anyone help me with calculating the max load and deflection of a steel 1.5" angle iron (1/8" thickness) over an 8' span? That will help validate whether my design will fit normal use.


texts: I need the top screw demensions for a GE Profile™ Series 1.7 Cu. Ft. Convection Over-the-Range Microwave Oven

texts: I managed to fit our new GE Profile™ Series 1.7 Cu. Ft. Convection Over-the-Range Microwave Oven PVM9179SFSS into the wall mount but the holes I drilled for the top screws are in the wrong place. I would like to know how many inches back from the front and side the top screw holes are so that I can try to screw new holes without taking the microwave back off as it is firmly in place.


texts: Is a gravel layer necessary under sand for a paver fire pit base?

texts:
I'm getting ready to start a DIY fire pit using pavers in a circular design. I've read that the first step (after the obvious digging) is to lay down around 5 inches of gravel or crushed stone. Then, lay down 2-4 inches of sand on top of the gravel. Is the gravel absolutely necessary, and if so, why?

The DIY instructions I'm following also say I should lay the sand, place the pavers, fill in the gaps around the pavers with more sand, wet the sand, allow them the pavers some time to settle, and then remove all the sand between the pavers via powerwasher before filling the gaps with polymeric sand. Why would I want to fill the gaps with regular sand if I'm just going to remove it shortly thereafter?

Thanks for the help!


texts: How to mitigate an unmounted bathtub faucet from back wall access

texts:
The pictured bathtub faucet pex hookup is not mounted, but I have back-wall access through a panel provided by the previous owner under a cabinet.

The faucet can be pulled several inches into the tub. Without removing the tub, what is the best way to mount this or a replacement fitting from the back for a professional and long term result?


texts: Can I rough in an exterior light without cutting into the siding?

texts:
I have my interior wall exposed and would like to rough in some outdoor lights without actually cutting into the exterior siding right now. I plan on replacing the siding this summer.

Is this possible? Should I do it this way? What sort of boxes would I use for this? New work?


texts: How should I hang a receptacle on a rim joist?

texts:
So I am wiring my cabin, and here I have a crawlspace which I will button up with some mesh & skirting, but for all intents & purposes, I am considering it open to everything (dogs, rodents, armadillos, pterodactyls, you name it ... this is North Texas) ... But I need power outside, so I have two of these outlets to wire.

They will be supplied by a 20A GFCI breaker just for these two 20A receptacles. I plan on putting PVC (or metal?) in-use boxes for them. Under the cabin I plan to run properly supported 1/2in grey PVC using the little t-boxes shown below where the wire splits out to the receptacles. Wire will be 12 GA THHN/THWN copper stranded hot,neutral and ground, and making wire-nut connections in the t-box.

The receptacles are the kind where you insert the wire and the clamps down on it. It's this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Duplex-Outlet-White-R62-CBR20-00W/202066702

So, I like the first method, where the box sort of "hangs" from the rim joist, except of course I'll have it backed by a 2x6 screwed to the inside of the rim joist and hanging down. In this way I imagine I can get a cleaner install by drilling though the back of the board, and joining up the PVC to the center of the back of the box.

Is there a better way?
Have I thought this out correctly?
Am I being too cautious with the PVC, when just UF (or heck even romex) will do?
Should I also use a combo AFCI/GFCI? Seems like GFCI-only is the
right choice here.

You guys have been really terrific with the advice, which I appreciate in advance!

--Kerry


texts: How do I patch a gap between my bathtub and wall?

texts: The wall of my bathtub was cut too short when installed and water leaks to downstairs when I take a shower if it gets into the space between the tub and the wall. My father has tried caulking and even gorilla gluing these white strips there but it still leaves a space. How can I fix it?


texts: Ungrounded Desktop PC; Workaround to Remove Static Charge?

texts:
Background

I'm in China (hot, dry area) for the summer and am a guest in an old (1980s**) single family home. Because I am working all summer, I brought my desktop HP computer with me. After switching the desktop power supply from 115 to 230, I plugged it in and it works fine. Because the power drops /browns at least a few times per week, I have a UPS providing backup, allowing me to save my work and shut down in an orderly fashion.

The Problem

After a week or so, I noticed that I got a shock from the casing of my Desktop. I did some tests and notices that after plugging my pc after being unplugged for 8+ hours, it seems like:

Before I turn it on in the morning, there is no static charge
After 5+ hours, the charge is there but weak
After a few days, the charge is stronger.

After some trouble shooting, I found that while the outlet has 3 prongs, as does all my equipment, the outlet ground is not connected to anything. Further, I went to the "fuse box" and saw that there was no grounded there either. So essentially the whole house is ungrounded.

I found this article to have a good summary of the problem, but the only work-around he suggested was to connect the chassis to the water supply. This won't work for me for two reasons, 1) The water is somewhat far away from where I work and 2) there is plenty of plastic pipes in the water system.

I have a GFI on the way, but I don't think this will resolve the problem.

Question

Right now, I am unplugging the computer when I sleep and at meal times, but this is a pain in the neck. Is there a work around besides connecting to plumbing?

For example, can I connect the chassis to a 5 gallon bucket (~ 20 L) filled with salt water? or filled with damp soil?

Note

** While most of the big cities in China with modern construction will follow some sort of electrical safety code, this house was built before the big boom, so it is a "3rd world" sorta house. And because I am a guest, it wouldn't be polite for me to re-wire the whole house (or neighborhood, for that matter).


texts: Solution to the recommended 2" roof gap for Hardie siding

texts: So, I'm aware that Hardie recommends a 2" gap between the roof line when installing around a dormer. However, I find this gap to be rather extreme and makes for a strange look. I have also noticed many houses with Hardie siding do not have this big of a gap on them. I do want to follow the recommended practice, but I am wondering if there are any ways to make this detail look nicer. Is it ok to butt pvc trim tight to the roofline and then run the siding up from that? Or perhaps I could paint a piece of flashing the same color as the siding to bridge the 2" gap. Not sure if there is a good solution to this or not.


texts: Help with framing around old basement stairway

texts:
I know this is always a tough question, but just looking for any insight. We are working on a bathroom reno in our basement and it happens to be where an old set of stairs came down to the basement. We can only see three sides of the old stair opening. The joists and one header, that we can, are doubled up. There is blocking bridging the 32" old opening. The current closet wall runs perpendicular to this blocking, but we will be moving the wall to the other side of the double joists. Therefore, the blocking won't be running over the wall any longer.
The question is, would moving the wall be of any concern since I would think those blocking aren't supposed to carry weight? Above this area is a coat closet and kitchen pantry as well. If any other info would help, please let me know!
Here is the wall that is moving. Basically where the right side of the door is would be the header for the old stairs.

The black lines are the double joists.


texts: What can I do about a missing row of tiles when preparing a floor for vinyl planks?

texts:
I'm planning on putting vinyl plank flooring in my basement.  Right now I've  got the old asbestos tiles and want to leave them where they are at.  As you can see from the picture, one row was previously removed.

So I have to level this out.  Should I just put thinset down along the row?


texts: Replacing GFCI receptacle behaving like the old one

texts:
I assumed my old receptacle was faulty and so I decided to replace it with a new one. I wired it like in the photo below :

As you can see I placed both white(neutral) and black(line) in the line part of the GFCI, as the receptacle comes with a tape over load terminals. Also connected green (ground) to the receptacle.

This is actually 3rd receptacle that I've wired this way. The original one was wired this way too, then I replaced it with a new one. But figured it may be that the new one is faulty too (unlikely but wanted to rule it out). Still same thing. I tried pressing reset and test buttons but nothing happened, nothing 'clicks' in the receptacle as it was 'clicking' when I was replacing it before.

I m not a licensed electrician, I've replaced couple of receptacles and lights, and I think I have very basic knowledge of wiring, long way from an expert( not even my desire but I want to be able to do basic things).

I inserted the phone charged as well as the receptacle tester inside but nothing worked as I expected it would.

What am I doing wrong? And what can I do to make it work again?

EDIT:

I found a problem, it's the series of connecting GFCI's. So now what? I can't(would not pass inspection when I sell this house next year) just put regular receptacle in there (it works I tried).


texts: How do I install transition molding between my new hardwood and existing tile floors?

texts:
I have ripped out some old carpet and am preparing to install a new solid hardwood floor myself.  In several places, the floor transitions to an existing tile floor.  The hardwood floor guys told me the best transition between the two is a T molding.  You simply leave a gap between the two floors, and then place down the T molding between the two floors, so it sits on both surfaces.  Sounds simple enough.

However, the height difference of the two floors is considerable, and the T molding does not sit flush.  What are my options?  Here is a diagram showing the dimensions.

NOTE:  Using the T molding is not a requirement, I could go some other route if there is a better option.


texts: Is there any NEC code requirement for how far off the floor Category 5 wiring must be run?

texts: I am currently running conduit for Cat5e cable in the home office I am finishing off.  Are there any rules in the code for how far off the floor Category 5 wires in conduit must be run?


texts: How do I apply latex paint over oil based paint?

texts:
I sure hope someone can help me. I decided to paint my kitchen which I was not aware of but had been painted by the previous owner with an oil based paint. I painted over that with 3 coats of latex trying to get an even finish. With no luck, I went to our local paint store and the guy said to use a primer. So I got a latex primer and put 2 coats on it and still no luck! I spot tested it and the paint still is not going on smoothly. Should I have used an oil based primer? Went to another paint store and was told the only way to fix it is sand down to the original and put an oil based primer over it. Needless to say, this will take forever! Now I am to the point of just putting paintable wallpaper over it but am afraid it won't stick. Can someone please help me?

Also, I am pretty sure that the previous owner may have painted over wallpaper


texts: Dishwasher not draining before and after pump replacement

texts: I have an 8 year old he dishwasher(GSD4060D35SS). It developed a problem where it wouldn’t drain at the end of the cycle. I replaced the pump and solenoid after discovering some physical damage to the impeller of the pump. The dishwasher drained without issue once. The next time there seemed to be water left over after the rinse cycle(clean water with no suds almost to heating element) and the next time it had standing water with soap in it leading me to think it didn’t completely drain from either the wash or rinse cycle. Is there anything else I should check? When it drains there is a steady stream of water into the disposal unit and no indication of a blockage in the hose.  When water is in the bottom of the dishwasher if I run a reset cycle the water will gradually drain.  Sometimes with one reset cycle and sometimes it takes several to evacuate the water.


texts: How to repair damage to MDF baseboard trim

texts:
About a week ago while I was mopping the tile floors a part of my baseboard swelled up, which I thought was weird. Today I decide to cut the bubbled part out and when I did all that came out was this fuzzy material. Any ideas on what type of baseboard this is and how do I repair the it?
Thanks in advance


texts: How do I fix a stuck toilet tap that hasn't been turned in 3+ years?

texts: I am trying to close the tap which connects to my toilet tank but the tap will not budge.  I don't think that this tap has been touched in more than 3 years.  Is there a way to fix it so that I can turn the tap on or off?


texts: How can I determine why all the outlets in one room are out?

texts: I checked the breaker box and none were tripped. I eliminated the breakers and located the one feeding the outlets that are out. The breaker showed 120 volts from terminal to neutral bar. I checked the outlets hot to neutral is zero. Hot to ground is 120 volts and neutral to ground is 120 volts.  ON EVERY OUTLET.  What to do next?


texts: Possible to convert spa pump motor to bench mounted grinder?

texts:
I just added the pictures. I would like to know if it's possible to convert a motor that came out of a spa (magnetek brand) into a bench grinder.

The plug has 2 round poles, with a rectangle pole between them. They are arranged diagonally across a rectangle plug-head.

There is a wiring diagram that shows it can be set up for "high voltage" and "low voltage". I have not taken any covers off to see how it's currently configured. I'm in the U.S. and would want it to run on household current. (some call it 110v some call it 120v)

I did finally see the Amperage, and it's 16.0 or 8.0


texts: How to lock this closet with a non-standard knob size?

texts: We have a small closet in a spare room that we'd like to be able to lock with a key. It has a small, non-standard doorknob. I thought of using a hasp with a padlock, but that's ugly and more security than we actually need. Will I need to upgrade to a full-size doorknob, or is there another solution?


texts:
I am adding a large fish tank (65 gallons) to my second floor and would like to make sure to distribute the load across as many joists as possible. Is my best way of doing that to build a long, short platform to set it on?

Here is the general idea, where dashed lines are the joists, solid black lines are the box (basically a structure of 2x4s screwed together with a piece of sheathing on top), and the orange is where the tank would go.

If that sounds like the best way, then the next question is as to whether the positioning of the wood matters - i.e. using a 2x4, I can lay the base down by the 4 (making it easier to stabilize).

Update: This is close to the main bearing wall, however the old tenants moved the original wall in the basement (over by about 6-12 inches). This caused the house to shift a little and you can see that via a slant in the flooring. This is why I'm resistant to throwing that much weight in an idle configuration.


texts: I need to install a 30 amp 120v rv receptacle.  this is temporary.  I have in place 10/3 wire with ground.  can I use this wire with a 30amp single pole breaker in the panel and the rv receptacle on the other end?  if so, how should I treat the extra wire?


texts: How can I identify the source of a leak at the hot water heater?

texts:
My water heater has a slow leak. From what I can tell so far it is coming from either the cold water inlet or the hot water connection. The cold water inlet seems to be the culprit to me because that is the side that the water is dripping down the side of the tank on the floor. However, I am not 100% sure that is where it is leaking because there is a pool of water on the hot water connection side, as well as the anode rod area.

What I have done so far:

Dried out all the water inlets and anode rod area.
Ran the hot water and looked for the leak.

What happened was the cold water inlet very slowly filled up, and to a lesser extend the hot water area filled up with some water. The anode rod area did not fill with any water.

So what is my next step, should I just try to replace both hot/cold connections? Is there any way to know for sure which one could be the culprit? Or is there another possibility I haven't considered?

The water heater is about 8 years old (AO smith brand, 50 gallon electric 2 heater elements) so I'm not quit ready to just replace it.


texts: How do I wire a 1/2 switched receptacle?

texts: I am changing receptacles and one of them is 1/2 switched. I have the red to the brass screw and the whites to the silver ones and it keeps tripping the breaker. I swapped the whites to make sure I hadn't crossed them and same result ( i put them back to how they were -one across from the red and one diagonal from it) I have also changed two others on the same circuit that are not switched. The tabs on the old receptacle were not broken off. where am I going wrong?


texts:
had a house inspection done and the inspector told that Irregular materials were used, I am attaching a pic.    how much work is it to repair it?  is it a easy fix?
Thank you


texts: Adding an on/off switch for my furnace fan

texts: Here is my situation,  I want to be able to run the blower on my furnace during the summer so that the cool basement air can be circulated thought the house. I live in an old house and the thermostat only has two wires running to it, and I believe that it is therefor unable to operate just the furnace fan. I remember being younger and the furnace we had at home just had a simple push/pull switch attached to the furnace that turned on the furnace fan, but my new furnace doesn't have such a button. I don't want to run new wires to the thermostat, so I'm wondering if there are other options. Can I install an on/off switch directly on the furnace somehow? I have a carrier performace 80 furnace, model number 58CTA070. Thanks do any help!


texts: Can I identify window manufacture from the NAMI information?

texts:
All I could find short of removing the window to look for the manufacturer's label is the NAMI sticker information it had inside top frame.
And yes I did look through the posted NAMI list here, mine wasn't found on it.

Apartment Bldg.: All Windows replaced mid 1980's with vinyl frame/impact glass.
Location: Cooper City, Florida
NAMI LABEL: Information ANSI/ AAMA  101-93
CODE:  E-207-1
SPEC:  DH-R35
SERIES:**93105/91F/101F/95
**MST: 4562  (MST stands for what?)

My Purpose: Replacement of the plastic slider clips that come on the window screens.

Function: Clips keep the screen snug in place when slid out into the corners. To remove screen you slide them into the center and pull down on them to release the screen out from the frame.  Being vinyl, they have disintegrated and broken. The screens now rattle constantly in the frames whenever the wind blows or it storms.  I'm looking to find replacement clips for the screens if possible.

I'm honestly not to optimistic about finding them, but worth a try.


texts:
I wired an outside outlet plug on my back porch and ran it off my breaker box, used a 20 amp breaker, used 14/2 wire, hooked the white and black wires to the outlet plug and cut the ground wire off short (the guy at Home Depot told me to do it that way).

I used a double 20 amp breaker and wired white on top and black on bottom and ground to the strip with all the screws in it, which in that same strip it does have a ground connected to it from a 240 RV outlet, all within the breaker panel. So would that be considered having it wired for 240? The breaker does not trip, just keeps blowing bulbs.

I tried the plug with some Christmas lights and they came on fine, but then I plugged in a lamp and it immediately blows the bulb. I tried 3 more bulbs and the same results, does the ground wire have to be connected too? or should I use a 15 amp breaker instead of the 20? or is my wire I'm using too small of a gauge? Help!


texts: So, basic back story, well pump was done in 2012, approx 7 years old. House is 1992 built, 3 bathrooms, 4 kids, 2 adults. The kids shower almost every night back to back, which recently became an issue as water pressure drops to the point of nothing.  This goes on for months, and if you let the system sit turned on overnight, water pressure is back to normal in the morning. Well is 280’ deep, static depth is marked as 10’ deep on the well tank. Well pressure tank as far as I can tell is original to the house, I have not changed it since I moved in, 2006. Well Xtrol 20 gallon pressure tank.  I had checked the air pressure when the problem first arose this summer, and found it to be ~15psi. I readjusted it to 28.  I had a plumber come check the system to determine the fault. They said the well pump was failing and drawing 4 amps which they said is abnormal. They replaced the pressure switch because I had installed one with a shutoff.  After receiving a ridiculous quote for $2400 to replace the pump, I decided to replace the pump myself with the same unit.  3/4hp, Goulds. Same exact unit that we had before.  Pain in the ass dragging 280’ of line and the pump up by hand, but somehow got it done. Replaced the pump and motor assembly, torque arrestor, spacers, and lots of electrical tape.  Everything I got from the supply house was awesome and well priced.  Since replacing the pump, anytime we call on a significant amount of water, ie; 4 kids showering back to back, the water will randomly lose pressure and die completely.  I will leave everything on overnight and in the morning, approx 8 hours later, the water is back to normal. 50-60 psi. The thing I have noticed is the amount of sediment. We have two water filters for sediment, one is larger than the other.  The first larger one is getting very dirty very quickly. It used to take a good 3-6 months to get really dirty so that water pressure dropped, but now it seems to only take a couple weeks.   I’m at wits end and really just want this water issue fixed!  Looking for advice on what to do next.  Thank you!


texts: Why do you have to bond the neutral and the ground wire in the main panel?  Not in separat ？I don't know how that works


texts: Can I convert/adapt to PEX from copper tubing?

texts: I'm remodeling a bathroom, and some of the copper tubing needs to be replaced, due to leaks and the need to reposition fixtures.  Is it feasible and recommended to convert from copper tubing to PEX?  For instance, could I use something like this where the copper comes out of the slab, and run PEX the rest of the way to the fixtures?  My motivation is (perceived) ease of working with the PEX, especially the ability to position it where I need to for the shower valve assembly.  I say perceived, because I've not ever worked with PEX before - is that asking for trouble?


texts: Best way to cover bedroom doorway that has no door?

texts:
I have recently moved to a new 'two room' apartment which I guess was formerly a one room apartment that was that was split in two by a wall whose stability I cannot really vouch  for. The main problem is that this wall features a doorway. This doorway connects the living room which has a very large window that lets in a lot of light to the bedroom. We have not intention to cover the living room window because we love the light there, but we want to darken the bedroom for sleep. This, which is our main concern, I guess could be solved by a curtain.
Is there any we could also put something that attenuates sound a bit? How complicated is it to install a door?

Any alternatives, either helping with the sound or not, are highly welcome.


texts:
I have an 2nd-story bathroom with a concrete tile floor. This was built in the 1950s, so it's plywood subfloor with about an inch of concrete in metal mesh, then tile on top of that. The mosaic tile has broken near the tub (approx 4"x12"), and I cannot afford to rip out all the tile and replace. There are also tiles on the wall that go all the way down to the floor and they would probably incur some damage going that route.

I am considering digging out all the broken tile, and then filling the cavity with fresh concrete. After curing, I would cover the entire floor with a sheet vinyl product. Is there anything else I could do to repair this broken area aside from just overhauling the entire bathroom?

For the record, all the contractors I have spoken with have told me I will have to rip up the floor ($$) and since they can't do that without hurting the tile on the walls, I will need to redo that as well ($$$).


texts: Removing the vibration from a loud motor

texts:
VIDEO showing my situation below... I have an electric heater in my garage and the fan motor is vibrating, resulting in a lot of noise. I noticed that if I press my finger against the back of the motor, the sound stops. So, I wedged a piece of wood between the back of the motor and the grate. This stopped the vibration, but I want a more longterm solution. Any ideas on ways I can permanently fix this issue?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lUYeknCoqg


texts: Unsure how to hang awning on garage, nor what bolts to use

texts:
I bought a light awning set to put on the side of my garage, and it came with the following anchor bolts:

My garage has a wooden panel attached to wooden studs inside the wall and I am trying to figure out the best way to attach to the outside. Here are three potential options:

Because of the stud width (16in) and the awning bolt widths (18in), only one set of the three bolt holes will line up on a stud. I like the middle option for that reason, but notice that both holes won't fit. I am happy to build a wooden spacer).

Question 1: Which option for mounting makes the most sense?

Question 2: What bolts should I use if I have to replace the concrete anchor bolts?


texts: Do garage door springs LOSE their "spring"?

texts: On a one-piece, single-car door that's rarely opened (springs usually stretched), do they eventually stretch, thus stopping the opener from working?


texts:
I'd like to paint art on a wall like the attached photos. I would like to know how painting art differs from normally painting a solid color. Specifically,

Is it suggested to only paint on flat walls (without orange peel texture)?
Which brand / type of paint should I use, such that it is easy to blend colors? And with that type of paint, is priming necessary?
After the artwork is finished, how would you seal it to prevent people from scruffing it up?


texts: Installing a new 240v receptacle - what do I need to know?

texts:
Provided I use a box large enough to meet the fill requirements (and use 10 AWG conductors), are there any additional requirements I should be aware of when installing a new 240v 30 amp receptacle for a clothes dryer?

More specifically, does the box need to be metal or have certain attributes that a standard blue plastic box might not have? Is a cable clamp required?

My state (CA) currently adopts the 2011 edition of the NEC. I haven't had much luck finding anything that specifically addresses this so far.


texts: Would filling this part of my patio with drain rock improve drainage, at least in the short-term?

texts:
I moved into my house this time last year, so I don't really know much in the way of its history, and how things have been done etc.
In the back garden there is a patio, and this patio is split into two levels. Along the part of the patio where the levels split, there is a section that is filled in with soil and small bits of gravel at the lower level:

It seems as if this lower part of the patio is sloped in the direction of this section, which makes sense as this moves water away from the house. However, water doesn't seem to drain particularly quickly. When the rain is particularly bad we get a fair bit of standing water in this lower part of the patio. Here is an image of the water collecting, though it has been much worse than this in the past:

I've been looking into this a bit online, though I don't really know anything about laying a patio or even drainage, but I am trying to work out if I can improve the situation before we get the patio completely re-done, as the rest of the house is much more pressing in terms of work that needs to be done (though having water issues like this close to the house is a concern, there are no damp issues with the house at the moment, and i have yet to see it so bad that the standing water has reached the back wall of our house).
From what I had read, I started to think that this part of the patio was a french drain, where the water was being redirected elsewhere (though I'm not sure where to exactly). So I started to dig up a small portion of the drain to see if this was the case, expecting to get to a drain pipe of some sort, however I dug 8" down, and have yet to reach any pipe. I may need to keep going, but I'm not so sure.
With regards to the manhole cover you can see in the image, I don't believe this has anything to do with rainwater drainage, I can take the cover off and see there are no blockages, and the drain underneath is connected to our waste water output, I can see water coming through from the house when it is used, and there is only one place for water to come from under there. The drainage for rainwater from my guttering seems to be being routed somewhere else.
So I suppose I have a couple of questions, the first would be, is this a french drain of some sort? Or is it simply just a bit of the patio that is filled in with permeable materials in the form of soil/gravel, allowing water to into the ground under the patio? If not, could anyone explain what it might be? I appreciate none of you can actually dig up my patio to have a look, but I'm sure someone here would be able to hypothesise something.
My plan (having read about french drains) is to dig out all of this silty soil and gravel and replace it with larger stones, contained in landscaping fabric. I am thinking of digging out the whole thing down to about 8". Will this have any effect at all in terms of drainage? Even in the short term? Is this a bad idea/waste of time? Or would this potentially alleviate the problem, even if only slightly? I know this wouldnt be a French Drain without there being a drain for the water to go, but I guess there would be more space for standing water to go to while it dissipates, within the rocks, as opposed to this compacted silty soil.


texts: Can I power a separate cooktop and wall oven from a single circuit?

texts: I am replacing my 240V electric cooking range with a glass cooktop (with 4 heating plates) and a separate wall oven.  The old cooking range was a plug-in.  The two new appliances (the glass cooktop and wall oven) are meant to be hard wired (not plug-ins).  Can both new appliances be hard wired into the single circuit that was being used for the old cooking range?


texts:
My toddler dropped a toothbrush down a bathroom sink.  Unfortunately, the stopper wasn't in the sink at the time.

When looking down from above the sink, I believe the toothbrush is in the PVC section of the picture, and leaning against the side.  The PVC is a larger diameter so even if I could reach the toothbrush from above, I'd need to pull it center before pulling up.

How do I remove the toothbrush and get the sink functional again?


texts: Wiring garage heater to fit a NEMA 14-50 range plug

texts:
Living in an old farmhouse that's hard to heat, furnace quit this fall so I'm using a heat pump, space heater and electric dryer to keep the pipes/me from freezing.
I'd like to use a 5000 watt 240v garage heater and forget about the dryer. I have a 50 amp 240v range outlet that isn't used and want to know if I can wire a heater like that to the appropriate plug. It's in a central location in my home and would certainly be more effective than a dryer.

If you have any suggestions on the type of heater I should/could do this with or how to do it I would really appreciate it.

Thank you!

JP


texts: Distribution of lengths of power outages

texts: I am looking for a distribution graph of power outages.  I am assuming the graph would show that the lengths are positively skewed.  From this I would be able to determine how long to have my computers run on backup batteries before automatically turning off.


texts: What DIY should I do on the ceiling to prevent noise from neighbor upstairs?

texts:
I live in a apartment. My neighbor who live upstairs, like to drag their chair and stomp their feet when ever their relative children come to visit them.

So, what should I do to my ceiling to block the noise?


texts: What happens when a vapor barrier is too close to the cold side?

texts:
The vapour barrier must be installed on the warm side of the wall, that is on this interior side of the house. It is permissible to have it sandwiched in the middle between two layers of insulation, but only if the cold side insulating layer is at least two thirds thicker than the warm (source).

My question is what happens, exactly, if the barrier is actually on the colder side? e.g. two-thirds warm insulation, barrier, one third cold insulation? This is in a very cold climate (-40 in winter not unusual). And what can be done to mitigate this situation?


texts: How to remove an old KitchenAid dishwasher?

texts:
I am looking for any information that could help with removing a KitchenAid KDC-37 SST dishwasher.  It appears to be part of an integrated sink-dishwasher-drainboard unit.  The KitchenAid support site is not able to find any information or manuals for this appliance; it's probably too old (perhaps up to 40 years).

You can find a photo (not mine, but it looks almost identical) here.

Ideally, I would like to be able to separate the old dishwasher from this unit cleanly so a new dishwasher can be installed in its place.  If that's not possible, I would still be very grateful for any tips about how to remove the entire unit.


texts:
I started hearing a whistling sound coming out from the return vent for the air conditioner. So   I pulled out the filter to inspect it and noticed there was something odd inside the duct. It looks like trash and wasn’t sure if I should remove it.
The duct goes straight up the package unit on the roof.


texts: When the wind comes from a certain direction my conservatory roof leaks. . Is there some substance I could use (similar to putty?) to stop the leak?


texts: What can I use to fill cracks in boarded walls before painting?

texts: My house was built in the 30's. and the walls are tongue and groove. Over the years cracks have formed between the slats. Is there a compound similar to joint compound that I can get to fill them before painting?


texts: I need to attach a 13 ft retractable awning onto my siding. (2) vertical ~ 3" thick gutters 10 ft apart are blocking it. Cannot re-route them. Thinking of mating (2) 2x6 PT wood and  attached it to siding. What is the best method to mate and attach them?


texts: Cladding removed from sides of dormer, should it be covered if not being replaced for a week?

texts:
I'm having all of the soffits, fascias & guttering replaced along with cladding to the sides of upstairs dormer windows. The upstairs windows look like this picture:

The guy doing the work started by removing all of the old wooden soffits & fascias as well as the cladding to the sides of the dormers. He has put all new soffits, Fascias & Guttering on the main roof line but has left the sides of the dormers open.

There has been a delay with some materials and he has said he will be back next Wednesday/Thursday (that's approx. a week from now for future reference) to complete the job. I should stress that I'm not worried about this being a "builder never returns" problem, I have 100% confidence that the work will be completed.

What I am worried about is the sides of 4 large dormers being open to the element for a week with heavy rain forecast! Should I be worried? Should they be covered by plastic (tarp) or perhaps temporarily boarded up? The builder doesn't seem overly concerned but I am.


texts: What is the best method to patch a large hole (2-3 inches) in drywall?

texts: I have a large hole where a TV wall mount once was (I believe the hole was used to run power and coax cable to the TV). I have since moved the TV and would like to patch the hole. What is the best way to do this?


texts: I am attempting to mount a pegboard(the type you climbed up in gym class  http://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-pine-maple-peg-board) to a drywall covered wall. Originally I thought lag bolts into the studs of the wall would work but then found out the studs in the wall are aluminum. After that I considered using toggle bolts and tried to get one into the stud but that seemed to be impossible. I have no idea what to try next to get the board mounted to the wall safely. It weighs about 40lbs and will have around 200lb people climbing it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!


texts: Is my fridge not cooling because of this fan?

texts: I'm trying to fix a fridge/freezer that recently stopped working but still has power. I removed the panel from the freezer and there was a lot of ice build up which I let defrost. I noticed that the little fan which (I think) forces cold air into the fridge seems a bit wonky. It sometimes starts running if I give is a spin to get it started but then stops shortly after. This video shows that: https://youtu.be/ZQMJDpgACQc. Is this "abnormal", or should I look for the source of the problem elsewhere?


texts: Does a 0.1 PSI drop in 24 hours indicate a leak in gas piping?

texts:
After installing some new CSST with black iron end points and pressure testing at 5 PSI, is it bad to lose 1/10 of a PSI (0.1 PSI) in 24 hours?
I cannot identify any leaky joints with solution and I've seen claims that 1 PSI in an hour is an incredibly tiny leak so could a tenth PSI drop be just an error in temperature change?
FWIW, the old gas line is still in use and I'm prepping for a weekend cutover from the old to the new lines.


texts: Alternatives to pig-tailing ground wires in outlet box?

texts: I have an old house and there are ungrounded outlets set in the baseboards. I am currently working on rewiring them and was wondering what the best way to tie the ground wires to each other and the ground screw is. From looking online, it seems to be using a pig tail, but these boxes are very shallow and I don't think I can fit a deeper one in there. So are there any safe alternatives?


texts: Each new light bulb for my oven doesn't last long

texts:
The light bulb in my Whirlpool WFG231LVS0 oven keeps burning out.  I've replaced it several times, with new bulbs of several different brands (all marked as being appropriate for ovens).

The new bulbs seem to work for a week or two and then stop turning on.

It seems like the filament is broken. As I rotate it around (see the gif below), I can hear something inside.

I've read elsewhere that oven lights often stop working either because of slamming doors damaging the filaments or because of liquid splattering onto them. I don't think that's the case with mine.

How can I diagnose and fix this problem?

P.S. This is not a new oven, and there had been more than a year of normal usage before this problem started happening.


texts: Precautions to take using half completed bathroom

texts:
What sort of precautions should be taken when using a half completed bathroom that is mid-refurbishment, to avoid damage or extra time/money having to be spent.

Specifically, when using the shower (which is over a bath) and the toilet, if old tiles and sealant have been removed but new not yet put in.


texts: Transfer grills as a return to the basement vs ducted cold air return

texts:
So I have an open return in my central air/heater in the basement mechanical room with no cold air return.  I've had zone balancing problems and a bypass that's always on because of the pressure.
I'm thinking that adding a cold air return would be ideal, however running ductwork is a bit complicated since the ceiling is finished and would require a lot of cutting open the ceiling as well as routing through an existing maze of ductwork for the duplex above the 1st floor apartment.
One contractor suggested just opening up a transfer grill to the mechanical room in the basement.  I'm thinking if we do that then the air could get pulled into the basement hallway, but I'd imagine we'd have to cut a transfer grille from the basement to the first floor near the fire door in the internal hallway/stairwell.
Would this be a reasonable solution rather than going through the trouble of actually running ductwork?


texts:
I found this picture online and wonder what material being used as the retaining wall for the grasses?

It looks like a long piece of metal horizontally. But it could also be pressure treated lumber.

How to even prevent this from moving or falling over after many years? Is this a good idea for maintenance purpose?

I am sure it looks beautiful.


texts: How to repair small area of damaged/loose plywood sheathe on roof?

texts: I have a small section at a corner of my roof where the plywood has come lose and a gap has appeared.  It is on a part of the roof that is not easy to see, and unfortunately some birds have started nesting inside, and we can hear the pecking near our ceiling.  Obviously I'll have to find a way to get the birds out, but is it possible to repair something like this without tearing the entire section of roof off?


texts: New Construction 400 Amp Service / 200 amp sub panel / future solar

texts:
Currently I am looking at a 400 amp Square D combo panel installed outside garage(flush mount) and then 4/0 Al feeder to a 200 amp sub panel on the other side of house (135' length). The combo panel (30 space, 40 circuit) seems like the simplest way to do this.

Another option is a Siemens 400 amp 4-space 4 circuit Levery Bypass meter base (with 2 - 200 amp breakers ?) on the outside with a 200 amp sub panel directly on the inside (connected by nipple to feed that panel) and then a 200 amp sub panel on the other end of the house. Would this work as well? The one advantage I could see is the breakers would be accessible inside the garage instead of outside. And maybe when hooking up solar- it might be easier as well??? I'm sure I will have to check with power company on this...Any comments/suggestions are welcome!


texts:
I am looking at getting a walnut butcher block table for an office because the dark color will work well with the existing color scheme. The maker offers a choice of "natural oil finish" and "varnique semi-gloss" whatever that means.

However, I have never used walnut before. Are there are any gotchas I should know about with walnut? (like odor or allergic reactions)

I currently have an oak butcher block desk and the only problem I have had with it is that where my arms rest on the edges of the desk there are dark spots that appeared after about 6 or 7 years of use.


texts: I tightened a Titus Minifix Cam too hard and now I have to take it apart. Is that OK?

texts: I put together this TV stand, and used a cam/bolt dowel for the first time when I got to the step of attaching the top of the TV stand (A) to the two stand panels (E). Since I assumed the cam had to be as tight as possible and it was fastened by a screwdriver, the first one I fastened I tightened way too hard and it messed the hole up a little bit. It was still tight, but it was a little angular and ugly, but that's fine because it was sturdy as hell. Once I realized not to do that I didn't do it again, but fast forward all the way to the final step of attaching the bottom/base and when I tilted the stand to its upright position and everything looks great except the top is backwards. Now I have to take everything apart, but I'm worried that since I've screwed everything in so tight, including the cam/bolt dowel, that when I put it back together it won't be as sturdy. Is there anything I can do to fix this situation? I'm an idiot.


texts: Repair Small Holes In Brown Coat & Plaster

texts:
Removing nails from a plaster wall results in much of the surrounding plaster cracking and falling away.  The brown coat under the plaster is a sand aggregate that also starts to crumble easily since the nail disturbs and cracks the coat.

I have attempted to just plaster over the holes but the undercoat crumbles and I end up with sand in the plaster or the plaster just 'sitting' in the hole.

What methods or tricks are there for stabilizing the brown coat and repairing the walls?

edit:

After reading Jack's answer, and getting a better vocabulary, I would agree that it is not rock lath but a brown coat as well.


texts: Basement in detached garage required to have two means of egress?

texts:
I have been reading the IBC Code and it is very long and complicated.
The point I am trying to figure out is whether a basement in a detached garage requires two means of egress.
There are whole bunch of conditions that constitute different exceptions to egress requirements. Firstly, if a detached garage is not considered a "dwelling" unit (meaning by its occupancy classification), then that is one issue. One article I read said that a secondary means of egress is needed only in a room where "sleeping is likely to occur". The other is that in IBC at one point it says "garages" require only a single means of egress, so would that apply to the basement of the garage as well? Then in addition to all this there are "occupancy load" questions, etc.
Can anyone can map out the different issues here in different parts of the IBC code and explain how I demonstrate why or why not two egresses are required from a basement in a detached garage?


texts: Increase 1/2'' copper water pipe to 3/4''

texts:
I have a 3/4'' main that comes into the house and then reduces to 1/2''. Then all my fixtures run off that in series.
My thought is to i make it 3/4'' copper all the way and then run 1/2'' tees to each fixture.
For the hot, the pipes coming out of the water heater and boiler are 1/2". Can i leave them 1/2'' but then increase to 3/4'' to run to the bathrooms? Then 1/2'' tee to the fixtures?
Is there any problems or issues that with me doing it this way?


texts: Husqvarna chainsaw will not idle but runs just fine

texts:
I have a Husqvarna 435 (not e version) rancher and it's a great saw.  This is semi-related to home improvement I do see other posts like this here.
I have the spline tool and I can adjust the high idle just fine, but no matter where I put the L setting screw (all the way in or all the way out), the saw will not idle more than a second.  I can cut with it but have to constantly keep it revving a bit.
My question is, if the L screw is doing nothing, then would the next reasonable step be to replace the carb?  I've seen a video and it doesn't seem that hard but I wonder if there is an interim step I should try before that.  I have searched and see plenty of videos on how to tune a carb, but nothing when the L screw doesn't work.  Thanks.


texts: What is this thin metal wire in wall of 50s home?

texts:
What is the purpose of this thin metal wire?  It attaches to a nailhead on the other stud, which is securing an electrical box.

Is this a grounding wire or something else?


texts:
I'm a homeowner. I had an electrician install the rough-in and I'm installing the outlets/switches/lights etc myself.

Bathroom has a H/L/V and the electrician wired the switch so I could use 3 regular switches instead of buying the costly one that has 3 on 1.

I have two "normal" switches (2 black wires 1 green).

The third switch has one white, one black, and one green.
I can't find any information about where the white wire goes.

Any clues? Do I treat it as a black wire?

The power company just hooked the power up last week but I haven't turned the breakers on yet so I'm not sure if any voltage is flowing to the white wire.

Thanks so much for any advice.