texts: is this how a "Pressure Balanced" shower is supposed to work?

texts:
I have a single handle Delta 1400 series shower. It apparently uses this cartridge. The description here says: "Pressure balanced for consistent water temperature".

The consumer FAQ seems to indicate that it should produce a range of temperatures (see point 3). Update: a note from Delta on this page indicates that it is the temperature that should vary, not the pressure ("handle controls the temperature only, not the volume").

An odd thing about my shower is that when you turn the handle, the pressure changes, but the temperature remains the same. Which means: you can't get a cold shower from it!

My question to you: Is this how it's supposed to work?

Background: I dis-assembled it to stop (unsuccessfully) a leak (the shower-head drips when the valve is off) before using it the first time (I bought the house "used"). And I have since also fiddled with the temperature control gear ("adjustable rotational limit") inside it. So I'm not sure if this behavior is by design, or if it's something I did to it.

Turns out I had put it in with the wrong side on the left/right. When I reversed the valve, the handle started working. It still continued to drip (as it did when I bought the house), and so I replaced the valve with a new one, and it seems to have stopped dripping.


texts: Mice that are eating through the boards under kitchen cabinets

texts: I have lots of mice I. My home it ate through the board under the kitchen cabinets. How can I cover that and what do I cover it with and does peppermint oil work if I spray it around the house. Please help


texts:
I had an electrician in to rewire my house and upgrade my electrical box. The electrician mentioned we needed to love the box from the original position.

When the box was moved, they cut a hole in my eves to run the pipe up. As a result, whenever it rains water pours straight onto the electrical box. Originally the wires run under the eves not thorough.

I am getting the eves sealed and the water re routed, but the contractor mentioned it may not be safe to have it this way.

Can anyone let me know if this is up to code ?

I am in Toronto

Thank you


texts: What's the smallest general-use tractor I can get?

texts:
I'm thinking about buying a small tractor for odd jobs on the homestead (~2 acres of woods).

For big jobs (e.g. install septic system), I'm OK with hiring someone, but sometimes there's a small job that a little tractor would be perfect for.

I have some logs (16" diameter, 26' long) that are too heavy for me move.
I might want to clear some heavy brush to make a trail.
Dig a trench to run run utilities through. (Maybe this is too much, and I should rent a bigger model for this job).

How small a machine can I get, that would be able to help with these kinds of tasks?


texts: Max wattage on 120v outlet on 20A 80% breaker on 3 phase

texts: I have an office in a building supplied with 3 phase electricity in the United States.  There are several standard household 120V outlets in my office, each connected to a dedicated, 20 amp circuit with an 80% rated breakers.  Assuming I will plug in an appliance continuously with a power factor of 1, am I correct in assuming that each receptacle on one of these dedicated circuits will support up to a maximum of 120V x 20A x 1PF x sqrt(3) x. 80 = 3325.5 watts? Or is it standard to somehow downgrade the electricity to single phase 120V when the 208V comes through the panel, effectively eliminating the square root of 3 term in my calculation above,leaving a maximum wattage of 1920?  Thanks.


texts: Why does my air conditioner say not to shut it off and restart within 3 minutes?

texts:
My air conditioner says not to turn it off and then back on within 3 minutes.

Why is that, and what will happen if I do?


texts: LNLN Motion Sensor - Replacing Switch, Help with RED wire

texts:
I purchased a motion sensor to operate the lights in my garage. The Motion sensor has four terminals labeled LNLN. When I remove the switch, I have a Black wire, white wire, bare wire, and a RED wire which is puzzling me.
The instructions are below.  The red wire is confusing me.  Thanks for your Help
2]]2


texts:
So I have started to notice the bathroom with an exhaust is starting to get really cold as the temperature is getting colder.

Is there something I can do about this? Should it really be that much colder?

Any tips on here to start?


texts:
I have a lower level hallway in my house that is currently carpeted all the way through the hallway and into the adjacent Den room. See outline drawing below:

This hallway is a high traffic area from the garage, which is beyond the laundry room, and up the stairs to the mid level of the house. I have a desire to remove the carpet in the hallway and replace with a click-lock style of laminate flooring. This new flooring would extend into the shown bathroom and the computer room.
I want to retain the existing carpet in the Den room so I would anticipate cutting the carpet along the green line in the above outline drawing.
The question here is what to do with the method to secure the carpet and provide for an edging for the carpet?
Normally carpet has a tack strip underneath the edges that would be inset some from the edge. How would I go about installing some tack strip after I cut the carpet at the green line? Would I need to rent a carpet stretcher to secure the carpet to the new tack strip. And finally, after the new laminate flooring is installed what would be the typical type of transition to use from the carpet to the laminate flooring?


texts: We are about to replace our countertops in the kitchen & put a new backsplash up. The cabinets will remain. We have found the wall is unleveled. The area from the top of the countertop that is supposed to touch the wall there is a gap. How can I put up a backsplash on the existing Sheetrock without cutting the Sheetrock out.


texts: Is grout needed before you use a shower?

texts: I am installing a new tile shower.  The floor is in and grouted.  The walls need to be done in stages due to time issues.  Is it okay to tile the walls and then use the shower before the grouting is done?  Will the tiles fall off if the mortar is allowed to dry before using the shower?


texts: How can I remove a stud to fit a range hood vent?

texts:
Our kitchen contractor screwed up and forgot to move a stud and plumbing in an exterior wall to accommodate a vented range hood. Cabinets and countertops are now installed. The photo shows what is behind that now finished wall (countertop and cabinets installed too) and also shows the center point of the range and the location of where the range hood needs to vent. (We are looking at a 42" range hood with either an 8" or 10" vent.) Local code calls for sistering the stud at full length if it needs to be notched/cut. I don't know how a full stud could be added since the cabinets and countertops are installed.
What other options are there?


texts: Do I need to dielectrically insulate smart home shuttoff valve on water main?

texts:
I have a smart home automated shutoff valve that I want to install in my water main.
The shutoff valve is a motorized ball valve on a stainless steel fitting. My water main is copper.
I am aware of corrosion issues mixing different types of metal piping.
I am hesitant to use a dielectric union on the water main because I have never used one before, and don't know if these are prone to leaking. I also also do not want corrosion though, so I'm stuck not knowing which is best.
I love in Colorado, but am not looking for meeting the minimum code, I want to make sure I don't have to worry about corrosion or water leaks.
Thanks in advance!


texts: Is it advisable to run electric cable inside a steel pipe?

texts:
When I had the piping of my house redone, they left most of the old pipe for cold water in the wall. This is a 18mm steel pipe which runs vertically through (almost) three storeys.

Currently, I am redoing the top storey and strongly believe it is a good idea to have electricity, ethernet and TV up there. Laying cables inside the wall is tedious and now I'm looking at this old unused pipe, which could fit a couple of cables easily.

However, I have sort of a bad feeling at the idea of putting a 230V AC power cable inside a (roughly) 5m long straight steel pipe. School was a long time ago, but I still think I would be building a quite formidable electromagnet, wouldn't I?

In this case I think it would be better to ground (add ground to?) the pipe, put only ethernet and TV inside the pipe and have the power cable outside of the pipe.

How correct or incorrect am I with my assessments? Is it at all wise to use a steel pipe to house any sort of cables?


texts: How to know what color of paint was used on the walls?

texts:
We've recently moved into our new house and we don't know which color the previous owner used to paint the interior walls. We've been trying to get hold of the previous owner but since he was only the seller, he didn't really reside in the house and he can't give us an answer.

Is there any easy way to know which color he used?


texts: How to connect a horizontal metal carport roof to a shingle roof?

texts:
This junction, see photo, is currently leaking inside... a lot.
I guess the question is how to connect a horizontal metal carport roof to a shingle roof.
I am thinking some sort of flashing will be required here.
Does anyone  know the correct way, if there is one, to connect these two roofs?


texts: How to add/retrofit birdstop to tile roof without removing tiles?

texts: Is it possible to add "birdstop" to the edges of a Spanish tile roof without having to take the tiles off? Is there something on the market that can be screwed to the facia?


texts: after using blender, all outlets in kitchen stopped working and now devices connected to them flicker on and off

texts:
A family member was using the blender this afternoon in the kitchen, and it suddenly stopped working, along with the rest of the outlets in the kitchen. I reset all the breakers, including the main, and it doesn't seem to have fixed anything. I tried resetting on of the 2 GFCI outlets in the kitchen and it went red. The other is slowly blinking green. Devices connected to the kitchen outlets, like the fridge and dishwasher, are flicking on and off. If I plug in a cell phone charger to one of the none-GCFI outlets (there are at least 2), that works, but plugging in a larger device does not work. What is going on?

I shut off the breaker just to be safe, and plan on calling an electrician in the morning.


texts: Is there such a thing as a threaded lamp pipe with an opening for the wire to exit into the inside of the glass lamp enclosure? I have a design where the wire enters into the threaded pipe, but then the threaded pipe continues to the outside of the glass enclosure where a "bolt" ends up holding everything together. So if the wire stays inside the rod without exiting, it ends up outside the fixture.


texts: Help – keep garage dry and well-ventilated (dryer exhaust hose)

texts:
I just got an old car and need to keep my garage dry and well-ventilated.
Right now my biggest problem is that I have about 3 feet of 4-inch dryer exhaust hose going from my laundry room to a hole that feeds the exhaust right into the garage.  It blows a lot of warm and humid air into the garage.

Should I do the work to redirect this hose to the outdoors?
Can I avoid that by getting another length of hose, connecting it to the exhaust hole, and letting the output end sit under the garage door?
Any other ideas?


texts: Chimney still leaking despite reflashing and coating

texts:
My chimney was leaking and the contractor pulled apart the roof around it and reput it with proper sealing and coating. Then he also coated the entire chimney with Geocel siliconized seal which is supposed to be best but we got slow ran for last 8 hours and to my surprise the chimney is still leaking.

Examining the leak in attic, the breaks of chimney are all wet and there is slow dripping from several points all around chimney.

So how could the water still get in?

My contractor will follow up but he even he probably doesn't know for sure what's going on. Any hints?

This is north west US area.

Update

Here is the picture inside the attic. The dark shade is the wet area. This was take earlier, now almost the entire wall is wet and dripping slows from different points. It's like 1 drop every 5 seconds or so. I don't have picture from outside but its very glossy now after we coated it.

[![enter image description here][2]][2]

Outside

[2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/323ma.jpg


texts: What can I use as a temporary noise insulation on a door that connects bedroom and bathroom?

texts:
our bathroom has 2 doors and we only use one. The other one remains shut and it connects to a bedroom. We do not intend on ever opening it (but we are renting the place so we need something that eventually we could remove easily).

Is there anything we could add to that connecting door to reduce bathroom noise?


texts: Microwave not heating: Should I pay a contractor to diagnose?

texts:
My microwave is turning on, but it's no longer heating food. It just runs until the timer finishes, but the food is not being heated.

I read a few articles online that say microwaves aren't easy for DIYers to troubleshoot, and that they can be costly to repair.

So is it worth paying a contractor to come out and diagnose the problem (and potentially tell me I need a new microwave), or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new microwave?


texts: Running ethernet cable between drywall and cement foundation, and repairing drywall afterwards

texts:
I am installing a new floor in a basement addition (addition was done sometime in the 2000s), and as part of that, wanted to run ethernet cables as well.  The floor is going to be 1" of EPS foam, and then two layers of 15/32 plywood.  I'm using the guidelines provided by the BuildingScience corporation.  Unfortunately, the ceiling is finished, and I'm not going to be able to replace it for the next few years, so I was planning on running 3/4" ENT conduit underneath the plywood against the walls, and fishing ethernet through there.  There are, for reasons I'm unclear on, several boxes already installed with no wiring going to them, so I figured I could just fish the cables up from the conduit.

So I was cutting through the drywall along the base of the wall so I'd have a path, and discovered not the plywood that I was expecting, but concrete.  I'm not sure if that's the foundation of the original house, or what.  And while I could in theory cut into it, I don't know of any reason to do so.  Instead, I'm planning on just running the ethernet up a channel from the floor (I'll install a low profile box under the new floor, instead of in the wall as I was planning to before).

So, questions are:  1)  Is this a horrible idea, for some reason that's not occurring to me?

2)  After running the cables, how do I patch the channel in the wall?  I won't be able to use a drywall patch, as the patch would be too thick.  I'm thinking about taking a piece of drywall of the appropriate size, shaving down the gypsum, and attaching it using the hammock method.


texts: How much water is too much water underneath the basement concrete?

texts:
We are getting ready to install a new shower in our basement.  When we had our house built about 8 yrs ago we asked to have a shower & toilet drains roughed in.  I cut off the plastic cover for the floor drain to gain access to the drain pipe.  After digging about 13 inches I found the pipe.  We have been having some fairly heavy rains the last week & this weekend that has been keeping our sump-pump running.  But off & on I've noticed that there is water that is filling up the hole I had dug.  (The water doesn't stink, so I don't think it's water that somehow leaked out/over of the toilet drain.)  I'm guessing it's from the rain.  We live in a area that has quite a bit of clay in the ground.  The water doesn't seem to be reabsorbing into the ground.

What does anyone recommend to fill around the drain pipes when we get it all installed?


texts: I have an outdoor area covered in pavers. The pavers are 2ft by 2ft. Under them is Brock PaverBase and under those is sand. The surface under the sand is as level as can be. There is some wobble in the pavers that is noticeable. I didn't use any polymeric joint sand due to the large size of the pavers. What can I do? Thank you in advance.


texts: How can I protect a hose and wire in a high-traffic area?

texts:
It's about 20' from my RV to the water supply and electric receptacle. This is a high-traffic area, and having foot (and car!) traffic on the hose and wire seem like a bad idea.

Ideally, I'd run them underground, but that will have to come later. What can I do today?

One idea is to cut a piece of 4" pipe in half, to use as a cover. What else?


texts: Goodman GMP 100-4 Red light blinks 4 times

texts: As the heading says I bought a used Goodman GMP 100-4 and the red light on the board blinks 4 times.  As soon as power is turned on tho the Furnace I hear a click and a few seconds later the blower motor and inducer run even with the thermostat disconnected.  I have checked the inductor switch and have continuity, and also tried jumping it.  I checked the nipple on the inductor and it is clear, the hose is not kinked.  The vacuum pot does open and close when vacuum is applied.  the fuse on the board is good.  I did not see a reset button any where.  Also there is a multi connection plug laying in the bottom of the Furnace and I have no idea what it is for.  See photo I just happen to think I have not checked the igniter.  It will do the same with the thermostat connect or out of circuit.  Am I missing something,  is the board the problem. applied.


texts: How can I put air conditioning into an apartment that doesn't allow window air conditioners

texts: I would so appreciate an answer to this question. I recently moved into an apartment that doesn't have central air and doesn't allow window units. I live in Los Angeles so this is not going be "chill" so to speak. The reason I moved in here was because it was kind of an emergency situation that I find a new place and (besides the fact that I may die in the heat) it's very nice. The building is from the 1920's and there is like a rule against anything being put out the windows. It's a weird rule, but my windows face the courtyard so there isn't any sneaking around I can do with the window stuff. I know there is probably nothing I can do but I have to ask. There is a bedroom with two french doors leading to a big living room. Is it possible to get an air conditioner with a tube and put the tube through the french doors and seal it up around it? I know that the living room will get very hot but if everything is sealed up will I be able to at least have a slightly cold bedroom for the summer months? I saw someone in here said to put the tube out of a door and in a bucket of water so it will evaporate there but I'm not trying to explode my whole building haha. Electricity cost is absolutely no issue so I have that going for me, I just don't know what to do.


texts:
I am seriously considering buying a very old apartment in an old Swiss farmhouse.
I want to know if the floorboards can be saved. They have gaps between them of about .8 cm to 2cm. Some of the wood looks like it has been infested with some sort of bugs. I have attached a picture of the shells of the bugs I have found.
My initial idea is to find the same type of wood and cut it to size to fill in the gaps and then sand it all down and stain it. They are also visible nails in the floorboards.
So my main question is can the floorboards be saved, do I need to get rid of them in order to get rid of the bugs?


texts: Some Free or Open Source Software To Design Rooms and Working Areas?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  What is an affordable 2D drafting software for amateurs?

I need time-and-another organize places quickly for projects and I find that some software would be useful to do that automatically. Suppose I have 100 square meters' square and 10 innovators working on the same electronics/hardware/software building project. The area is empty -- and you have budget for tables etc. You want to keep design simple. Is there some software to do that automatically or to help to do that automatically?

I rejected some very high cost package so no such things please. Any open-sourced design thing under the sun?


texts: Electric burner gets red hot when oven is turned on

texts:
The burner switch is in the off position, but the burner is getting hot when oven is on. (This is not a case of simple heat transference from the oven) the burner is getting power to it, actually heating it up.
Note: this started happening after I replaced 2 infinite switches for both my 8" burners. The original switchs where 10-11.5 A switch. The new ones are 9-10.5 A switches and yes they are compatible. Also the burner thats getting turned on is a 6" burner. Its not one of them i worked on.


texts:
Would it be possible to power the detached room from the breaker box with two 30 amp breakers to the room with UF 10-2 wiring underground from the breaker box and then landed into the junction box at the room where I would join it with previously wired 12-2 wiring, one for a small 115/15 amp window unit and another for separate receptacle?
Also, mentioning the fan switch and small appliance will be running on the same 30 amp breaker and the other receptacle to another 30 amp breaker.
 Pardon my father built this dwelling about 10 years ago and we never got around to powering the room.


texts: How do I decide between a “Power Drain Snake” and a drain cleaning jet kit?

texts:
I have some slow flowing drains that back up when it rains that I need to clear out. As there are no manholes or rodding points, I can only access them via the P-trap connected to an outside hopper.

I have a basic Karcher power washer that I can get a drain cleaning jet for,  or I could get a Drain Snake to attach to my drill.  Which should I use?

(Rods are not an option due to the P-trap.)


texts:
I am Looking for guidance on mounting a laser light in our daughter's office/room remodel to the ceiling, while providing a clean way to hide the power cable.  Some of the laser light devices come with a detachable cable, others do not.  Is it "up-to-code" to pass the power cable through the ceiling where it could connect with a 1-gang outlet box affixed to the attic rafter?

Here is an example I found that I might pass the power cable through...

Then I would connect the power cable to an outlet like this:

If there is a better recommendation, please share!

Thanks!


texts:
Due to some water damage sustained last February caused by an ice dam induced roof leak, I have to remove and replace the 100 year old plaster in my dining room, kitchen, and bathroom. That, combined with having to replace a section of my roof, adds up to an expensive project that my insurance company won't cover.

I am trying to reduce the cost of this forced remodel (we had wanted to remodel the bathroom, but not for another 5 years for financial reasons) by doing the demolition myself.

I have a prybar, sledgehammer, and the usual hand and power tools (drill, circular saw, jig saw, dremel, to name a few that might be needed). I have contractor bags, canvas drop cloths and plastic sheeting, and tape to attach said plastic to the wall to keep the dust (somewhat) contained.

I think I need a reciprocating saw (really! Not just making excuses to buy new tools!) is there anything else I may need? I have a full time job, three little children, and attend night school, so I want this demo to go quickly. And, maybe more importantly, I don't want to ruin anything (by doing it wrong, using the wrong tool) in the process and cost myself the money I'm attempting to save fixing a mistake.

I'd also gladly accept any pointers anyone may have on the demo itself too.

Afterthought: I thought I'd add that I've arranged for a dumpster (local trash pickup forbids construction debris)  and I have a wheelbarrow and trash barrels with wheels to use to get it all out there.  So, I think I've got disposal covered.


texts: Is it necessary to power-stretch when installing carpet?

texts:
Is it absolutely necessary to use power-stretch when installing carpet? In my case it is a room 284 x 550cm, I thought power stretcher is mainly for large spaces and in my case a knee-kicker would be just fine?

Thanks.


texts:
I'm about to install a privacy fence around a decent sized area of land, both for privacy and to keep my 3 year old daughter and our two basset hounds safely away from the road.

I'm installing the fence with 6' pickets on the back and 4' pickets around the rest of the yard. I was wondering:

if there was a general guideline for the spacing of the 4x4 posts
how tall the posts should be in relation to the picket height
how much of the 4x4 post to put into the ground and cemented in
any other advice from people with experience?

I also was curious as to how to install a gate that would be wide enough to drive a riding mower through but not sag on one side and dig into the ground.


texts: What do fractions mean when talking about electrical wiring

texts:
When buying extension cords and other types of wiring,I consistently see fractions. I see that it may be a reference to the conduction capabilities of the wire? Please explain. For example:

"Southwire 18/5 thermostat wire"

https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-64169622-Conductor-Thermostat-Power-Limited/dp/B0069F4HHC


texts: How can I utilize the power at the range and dryer for other appliances?

texts:
I know that the range & dryer breakers:

Serve a different type of outlet,
Are 240 volts, and
have higher amperage levels.

I have standard computer power supplies that accept 240V and are 750W each. If I calculate the wattage I can pull from 40A @ 240V, I get 9.6kW. How can I utilize this 9.6kW to plug in 12 different computer power supplies @ 750W each?

Thanks for your time.

UPDATE #1:
I found these cables after some hours of research. I want to know if this might work out.

I'll plug this directly into the 50amp outlet.

I'm worried about safety, voltage, and anything else I'm not aware of.


texts: How can I close a gap between my fence and my neighbor's that's on his side of the property line?

texts:
My heighbor erected a fence about 4" into his property. I recently erected my fence and put the post about 2" from the property line.

I then extended the fence (boards only) to come as close to his fence as possible.

Problem is he approached me and made me remove it "because its on his property".

We obviously don't get along and he is doing this in spite. I am just worried a dog will come through or a child and potentially fall in my pool or harm my child (the dog).

How can I secure the gap while respecting my neighbor's property rights?


texts:
I bought a house a few months ago and when I bought it I noticed what appeared to be a water spot on the ceiling of the top floor. Of course I didn't do anything about it until heavy rains over the weekend made it worse. I climbed into the attic to see what is going on and found water around the attic furnace directly above the water spot:

From what I can tell, there is a drip tray around the furnace for collecting water, and that PVC pipe is supposed to drain it. I can see if the try or the pipe has a leak, but I'm more concerned about how the water is getting into the tray and whether it's normal for that much water to accumulate. Is anyone familiar with this setup?


texts: Can I use pex for this connection between the shower and the tub faucet?

texts: Can I use pex from my shower valve to my tub drop ear elbow?


texts:
I'm preparing to build a semi outdoor kitchen. It will be exposed to the elements (I'm in Thailand) but under a roof top. Frame will likely be built using metal drywall studs, with cement board covering top and sides and possibly a wooden frame in front of that to hang doors off.

I've been looking around online for worktop options. The go to seems to be tiles. But to me, having tiles as a worktop seems odd. I feel a worktop should have a continuous smooth surface.

I'm not comfortable building a concrete countertop, slabs of stone willl be too expensive, and wood seems a bad idea given the humidity and temperatures here.

What other options are there for me?


texts: Replacing Single Switch with Dual Single

texts:
I have a single garage light switch that controls 2 ceiling mounted left and right fixtures, I want to replace this with a dual single switch that can independently turn off/on the left/right lights.

Inside the jbox on the wall, it looks like I have 3 cable runs, I'm assuming the third is for the ceiling mounted outlet for the garage door opener, can anyone help with wiring this up properly?

Photos below of the setup, the switch I'm trying to replace it with is a Cooper 7728, sorry I can't post more then 2 images for now.


texts:
I moved into a new home and found the downstairs light fittings all have earth wires leading into them, but only one of the upstairs fittings has.

Is it safe to split the single earth wire in the attic and feed it to a room for a new metal light fitting?

If so, would a pigtail be the right way to go about it?


texts: How do I safely and cleanly remove sealant from a plastic bath?

texts:
I really need to replace the sealant around the bath, but I want to do a good job of removing the old stuff first.

The bath is a plastic one, and the walls are tiled.

What's the best way to get the old stuff off without leaving any residue or damage, so that fresh sealant can be applied?


texts:
I have a CMU foundation block wall in my garage that leads to my basement (picture below). Half of the cores are empty and it is about 8-9ft deep. I regularly treat this area and the garage with bifenthrin insecticide, but the open cores are continuing to attract tons of camel crickets to use as a home. I'm currently renovating the garage so I want to either either fill, cap, or finish the top of this wall off so it looks more attractive and eliminates an area for insects to live. I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to do this.
This foundation wall is from 1956 and half the cores are already filled. If I end up needing to fill them, I can do this by hand with a wheelbarrow and 5gal bucket and I was looking at Sakrete Maximizer Concrete Mix since it seems to yield the most fill per 80lb bag. The fewer I have to mix, the better. I would eventually seal and paint these walls leading down the stairs. Thanks!

Update:
This went well. Looks more finished now and the camel cricket numbers are dwindling. I screwed some 2x4s to the wall to make a form and only ended up needing about two and a half 80lb bags of concrete mix after filling the blocks with broken up pieces of rigid foam.


texts: In a solidly grounded wye service, is an open neutral an emergency?

texts:
Open neutrals in 120/240V North American split phase services are considered an emergency due to the fire and equipment damage hazard unbalanced legs pose.  However, there are residential buildings (both single and multiple unit) that use three phase wye electrical services instead of split phase.

In these setups, is an open service neutral still an electrical emergency worthy of an immediate callout to the electrical utility, or is there something about three phase wye power vs. split phase that makes an open neutral less of a hazard?


texts:
Can fixtures in a single box be powered from 2 different circuits? I' planning on installing a 5-gang box with 3 light switches and 2 receptacles.
The lights and receptacles would be on different circuits. Further, the lights will be on a 15amp non-afci circuit, using 14-2 cable and the receptacles will be on a 20am afci circuit using 12-2 wire.
I plan on keeping the neutral and grounds (and obviously hots) for the 2 different circuits in the box separate.
Is there anything that would not permit this in the code (I couldn't find anything)?


texts: Can I add a junction box in my attic to ease congestion in a ceiling box?

texts:
I have an existing ceiling junction box feeding a ceiling fan (with lights) that I'm replacing with a flush mount ceiling fan (no lights) and plan to add four recessed lights controlled by a separate switch.  The ceiling junction box currently has four 14/2 cables in it.  (One feeding power in, two taking power to ceiling junction boxes in adjacent rooms and one is the switch loop for the fan.)
I need to add a cable for another switch for the recessed lights so rather than cram a 5th cable in an already crowded box I was planning on installing an attic accessible junction box on the joist next to the existing box.  I'd move all the connections to this box (Power in, two cables feeding other boxes, new cable to the fan/recessed light switches.)
Assuming I use appropriate boxes, connectors, grounding, etc., are there any obvious flaws / concerns with this approach?


texts: Electrical code - Conduit requirements for 50A copper cable through outside wall

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Can anyone advise what (if any) sized conduit one has to use per code to have a 50A copper cable run from inside through an outside, concrete, wall? I live in Maryland, USA, if that is helpful.

Would be extra helpful if a link to an online copy of section of the electrical code that stipulated the requirements in the above regard could be provided in an answer.


texts: How to determine where the cold is coming from?

texts:
My new home has a door which is very tired and allows cold in some how.

I have tried to work out how the cold is getting in, but it seems to be getting in throughout the entire door.

I was expecting it to be the seal or the letter box, but i can't tell.

How can i check if we need a new door, new seal, or new letter box etc?


texts: To which side should a bi-fold door open?

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I will install a bi-fold door in my house, but the jambs here in Brazil already have rabbets for the door stops made in the jamb.

I'm trying to figure out where should the fold goes when the door is opened.

1) It could fold to the inside of the jamb (resting on the jamb when open).

2) Or it could fold to the outside of the jamb (with the two leaves outwards).

Which is the proper way of doing that? The second ways seems like the door corners should be rounded over so as to not hit the door stop, like the drawing below:

BTW: This hinges for bifold doors in Brazil have a handle in the center hinge.


texts: Blower motor turns on before furnace heats up all the way

texts: I have a Honeywell furnace and when it starts the exhaust fan kicks on then the flame starts (it's a propane furnace) it warms up between 30 seconds to a minute then the main blower kicks on but it blows out cold air for about 3 to 4 minutes before it starts to blow out warm air and about 6 minutes before it gets hot.  I'm wondering if there is a regulatory or resister that is bad it has been wasting a lot of propane running like this.


texts:
I am removing the 1st floor wall section of my stairs.  The stairs were constructed with stringers under the treads, but a closed skirt board was attached.  I have removed the walls surrounding the stairs and the old skirt board.

Should I add a false stringer mounted all the way at the ends of the new, longer, treads or should I build a small wall with different height top plates to effectively make a stringer but provides a nailing surface for drywall?

EDIT:
Sorry, I really asked by question poorly...

The stairs are supported by 3, strong, full length stringers.  I will not be changing the construction of structural part of these stairs.  The two outside stringers are right at the edge of the current tread.

Open stairs is exactly what I am doing, in fact I have already finished opening them...  What I need to do is build a wall on either side of the outside stringers to support the last few inches of new, longer, tread as well as support new drywall.    Note that that last 2' of the first floor wall, which previously enclosed the stairs, is still present.

My question is actually about the construction of this new wall.  Should I basically just build a stair shaped wall?  Should I install a false stringer to get the stair shape, or just make the stair shape from 2x4s?  I want to be able to bring drywall right up to the bottom of the new treads.


texts: electric hot water heater high limit switch repeatedly opening

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The problem

I am in the southeast US and have an electric hot water heater that is 25 years old (as is the house).  Two years ago, I diagnosed and successfully replaced the lower thermostat.  Earlier this year, because the high temperature limit switch kept popping, I investigated and replaced the upper thermostat (a Robertshaw model 5600 if it matters).  Now, only about six months later, the high temperature limit switch opened again.  I reset it and now have hot water again, but I want to get more than six months of maintenance-free service.

What I've tried so far

As mentioned above, within the last two years I have replaced both upper and lower thermostat units.

I have faithfully flushed the tank every year (we have some sediment from our well water).  Neither the heating elements themselves nor the sacrificial anode have ever been replaced.  I can detect no evidence of corrosion.

What I've done so far is to check the elements with a ohm meter.  Neither element is grounded and each measures around 10 ohms.  I have also double-checked the wiring and have found no loose terminals or bad wiring.  I have also, after doing my checks on the system, turned the power back on and patiently listened as first the upper thermostat and then the lower one clicked off.

My questions

What further diagnostic tests should I try?
Should I just replace one or both heating elements?
Should I just replace both elements and both thermostats "just because"?
Should I just replace the whole hot water heater? (my wife wants this)
Should I just learn to enjoy cold showers? (presumably after divorce!)

I'm not averse to spending time and money to fix this correctly, but I'd like to arrive at a more definitive diagnosis first.

Update

Today, sixteen days after I originally asked the question, I noticed that the water was very, very hot coming from the tap.  I went to the hot water heater with tools and noticed that the upper thermostat was definitely on and was definitely too hot, although the high temperature limit switch had not opened yet.  I turned off the breaker, and checked and the thermostat was now open, and then turned the breaker back on.  Is this sufficient evidence to declare the upper thermostat bad and in need of replacement?


texts: What is happening to the surface of this shutoff valve?

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Yes, I know it's rust, but should I be concerned? In the third picture you can see the complete layout, to the right is where the water enters the house with the first valve (green) before the meter, then the red is the primary shutoff.

This is in a house we moved into, but do I need to worry about turning it if I need to? In the sideview, it looks like it's just the handle, perhaps it hasn't rusted inside the valve?

It doesn't appear anything has been dripping on it, just seems odd why there is so much rust. Can I replace the handle?


texts: Best way to fit a clothes washer under a counter

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The under the counter space for the washing machine in our laundry room is slightly too low for our washer. I can't push it in any further because the enclosure isn't perfectly square and the washing machine is too high.

I've already lowered the feet at the bottom to the lowest possible level. To make enough room, I'm thinking of shaving 1/2" or so from the plywood that between the countertop and the machine itself.
The floor is made of tile, and I could also pull out that tile to get the clearance I need, but I prefer to keep it in case of a leak.
Could I remove a layer from the wood under the granite countertop? Since it's already installed, I would have to do it upside down. I have a Dremel tool (with a router bit), a Dewalt Oscillating tool, an orbital sander, and I'm happy to rent something else if I need it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!


texts: LED T8 tubes: plug-and-play or direct-wire?

texts: I want to install some good bright LED lights in a shop.   I have access to some nice fluorescent-type fixtures for cheap or free (two 4-ft T8 tubes), so I want to just use them with LED replacement tubes.   I'm wondering what the pros and cons are of the kind of tube that works with the fluorescent ballast or the kind that requires you to re-wire the fixture to supply 120vac directly to the tube.   I lean towards the latter, since the re-wiring should be very little trouble and I'm perfectly comfortable doing it myself, and it seems silly to have a piece of electronics (the ballast) in there that isn't needed.    And I seriously doubt I'll ever want to switch back to actual fluorescent tubes.


texts:
I was helping my dad install Alumiconn pigtails in his home when I spotted something weird in a 1-gang outlet box: a black wire shorted with a white wire. Alarm bells went off in my head, so I spent the next couple of hours researching and trying to figure out which wires went where.

I discovered that a nearby switch had a black wire coming in and a white wire coming out and proceeding to that same panel. I also discovered that the source white and black wires coming in to the 1-gang outlet box were both hot and indeed shorted with each other when 2 of the switches on that nearby switch panel were on.

Here is a diagram of what the wiring looked like before:

It seems to me as though the electrician that installed this wiring was trying to control the hallway lights and the exterior garage lights with separate switches. My dad had commented earlier that the exterior garage lights never seemed to work correctly.

I decided that I wasn't happy with this wiring, so I redid it to look like this:  (The switch panel had existing copper pigtails that I left, but I plan to go back and install 2-port Alumiconns for each switch.)

Unfortunately the hallway lights and the  exterior garage lights are now controlled by the same switch, and the outlet is only on when the lights are on, but at least it all works now and I'm not crossing any white wires with black wires.

Two questions:

Was it wrong before, and is it right now?
If I wanted to have the outlet always on and the lights controlled separately, I believe I would need to run two additional hot conductors from the switch panel to the 1-gang box (or otherwise re-run the wiring to the outlets and the lights). Is this correct?


texts: Trying to install a 3-way switch but don't understand the colors of my wires

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I'm trying to connect a 3-way switch, but don't understand the colors of my wires.
On one side I have 1 black, 1 white and 1 red; while on the other side, I have 2 red and 1 white, no black.
How is this supposed to work??


texts: What can I put under a rug to minimize impact sounds?

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We want to minimize impact sounds for our downfloor neighbots from one room. The floor surface is laminate, we don't know how the exact build of the floor but assume it's wood since the house is >100 years old. Removing and redoing the existing floor is out of question. The idea is to use floor rugs with an underlay or pad for most of the room in question.

The first idea is to use cork mats (probably 5mm, maybe less), but I have serious doubts if they won't glide on the floor too much.

My problem is that so far every singe product advertised for impact sound attenuation is marketed as an underly for a carpet or laminate floor, not to put under a simple rug. So basically a product that attenuates impact sounds and doesnt slip.

So I'm looking for recommondations for an underlay - not product X, since what's availible near you might not be availible here. I'm looking for statements wether PVC fleece or cork or whatever has been used effectivly in this application.

I've edited the question from asking for specific experiences with cork to a more open question)


texts: How to achieve a desired angle with pipe fittings

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I want to come out the back of a spigot at a 90 degree angle - e.g. from this
Hose bib,
To this
Brass elbow
However, when you screw the two all the way together, you'll end up with a (seemingly?) arbitrarily oriented elbow. That is, say for example a pipe was coming up from the bottom, but when you screwed the elbow to the spigot the elbow ended up pointing up, which wouldn't work.
It would seem reasonable to be able to control the direction that you come out,
How would you do this?


texts: How tight should baseboards be for laminate?

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So, I'm a little stumped on this one.  I've installed laminate over a pad, but because of the way that the boards click in and the fact that it's a floating floor, the parts that end near the edges (particularly the last row that runs parallel to the wall) has a little bit of bounce to it.  Not really anywhere else, just the last row because it's not on a laser level subfloor (concrete basement) and the pad itself has some squish to it.

So the problem is, when you step on the last board it travels a little bit.  I can install the baseboard tight to the laminate (still allows it to slide under the baseboard for expansion), but even then it still produces a squeak with the subtle friction between the baseboard and the floor board.  I could install the baseboard loose, but then the last row would move up and down (which would be a little weird) and I'm guessing whould "whack" the base if I put it up too high.

What's the right way to do it?  Most instruction I see just say "nail your baseboard up and have a drink" and the ones that actually say anything usually say to keep the base tight (though many are for wood floors that don't flex so much).


texts: Do I need to add the ground wires to plastic retro fitting lights?

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light fixtureso I am adding recessed lighting in the kitchen (about 6). these retro fit lights do not go in a metal casing. It actually has its own casing. either way its all plastic except with a few metal parts like screws and whatever is holding the screw.

I am using 14-2 wire which is black,white,ground. these lights I am installing will not touch anything metal in the ceiling, so it will be its own bare metal part.

is it still important to attach the ground wire to the LED lights metal case looking thing. or should I just entangle the ground wires together and call it a day


texts: Protect tile grout from wood stain when staining fireplace surround

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We just had a new gas fireplace installed and the contractors built a wooden surround / mantel for it, but I asked them to leave the staining / finishing to me (I'm a hobbyist furniture maker, so I think I can do a nicer job).

Unfortunately what I didn't count on is that the facing around the fireplace unit is tile with white grout, which extends out and butts up against the wood surround.  I'm afraid that even if I tape the edges and am super careful, it's probably impossible to avoid getting any stain on the grout line where the wood/tile meet.

Any clever ideas on how to protect this temporarily?  Or would I be better off just actually removing that grout line and re-grouting after all the finish is on?


texts: Possible to DIY a multiple fixture canopy?

texts:
I've been looking at making a fixture for my island that would consist of 5 separate LED bulbs hanging down from a single canopy, each about 15" apart.

Looking at what's out there in terms of commercially made canopies, it's very expensive once you get into the larger items.   A 5' long canopy would be $500-$1000 without any lights involved yet.

Obviously, one solution is track lighting, but that has a rather particular look to it.

When I looked up the various DIY approaches folks have used, none of them seemed to be remotely code-compliant.   I'm not talking about strain relief, but rather wiring done either in open air behind a piece of wood, or wiring done inside a stained pine box with no means of spark protection.

So my thought is that perhaps I could approach it much like when I put wiring into a built in bookcase - I use shallow j-boxes and make sure there is space for everything.  What would be an issue if I built a nice box out of wood, made all the connections in j boxes, and then ran the power to the light through a bushing?   The main problem I would imagine is that I still need to pigtail to the original j-box to get power.

Any other ways to approach this?


texts:
My dinning room had an on/off switch for the light which made it impossible to have romantic dinners there - the light was either too bright or off.  So I decided to install a dimmer.  Being energy conscious and progressive, I wanted to install a dimmer for compact fluorescent lights. I bought a dimmer for compact flourescent lights, the Lutron dimmer with the designer or decora switch, and the slide control to adjust the intensity of the light.  I also installed 60W equivalent compact flourescent light bulbs that were recommended by Home Depot as being dimmable.  After installing it, I found that it would dim the lights from 100% brightness down to 80% brightness - still nowhere near dim enough for a romantic dinner.  When I went to Lowes, the guy there said that I just happened to get a bad switch - try another one.  I did - same result.  I went back to Home Depot - the guy there was adamant that they do work, so I tried another - same result.  I made very sure that I had the polarity of the switch right, checking which was the hot lead with a volt meter before installing the switch.

Is there a trick to get the compact flourescent light switches and dimmable compact flourescent lights to work?


texts: Light bulb socket adapted to a 3 pin plug socket

texts: In my loft i have a light bulb operated by an on off switch. Is there a gadget that screws into the bulb holder that would turn it into a 3 pin plug holder? I need a power source for a squirrel repellent plug.


texts: Is is possible to have "bad" electricity in your home?

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I live in a small 5-unit condominium building in a city and have noticed that light bulbs are constantly popping well ahead of their anticipated shelf life and other electronic equipment (most of it baby stuff, I have a newborn) is breaking again sooner than it should.  Is is possible to have a problem with the electricity in a building / unit and, if so, what should I be checking / how do I speak to an electrician to assess and fix the situation.

Forgive my naivety on this subject...


texts: How can I tell if the bladder in my water tank is damaged?

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I have a "Signature 2000 SR35-10S-01" water tank. Trying to determine if my pump is cycling too fast and if my tank my be to blame. The pump switch is set for a 40/60 pressure range. With a kitchen tap running at full, the pump goes on when the water pressure drops to 40 and it takes 20 secs to reach 60, and then pump stops. Then it takes about 1min/10 secs for the pressure to drop to 40 at which point the pump kicks back on. This of course repeats while the tap is open.

So pump on for 20 secs, pump off for 1 min/10 secs with a kitchen tap running. Is that considered too fast? What should be happening here if there's not a problem.

I checked the pressure of the "air cell" with a tire gauge at the schrader valve at the top of the tank (under the cover). After emptying the tank totally I get no pressure reading. If I turn the pump on and let the tank fill I get a pressure reading that matches the current water pressure (40-60).

One thing that makes me think the the "bladder" or "air cell" (they're the same thing right?) is damaged is that if I want to drain the tank of water completely it takes quit a bit of time to do so after the cutoff of 40psi is reached.

So what I think is happening is that I'm filling the whole tank up with water instead of filling it against an inflated bladder/air cell.

Any help/opinions on this greatly appreciated!


texts:
I have several solid stone pillars (approx 4' high) running along the edge of my patio. I would like to hang string lights along the stones using something like Q-Hanger hooks. But I do not know how to go about securing these hooks into the stone itself. I see online some plastic anchors that look like the kind that I would use in drywall but I'm not sure if that is the best option or if those anchors would work with the hooks I have planned.

Any advice would be appreciated.


texts:
We had a sun room added to the first floor.  A few years later I noticed signs of a small water leakage causing bubbling in plaster on the inside beam in the house where the sun room meets the house.

I looked up, way up... and noticed a gap between the flashing and the siding where the tar paper is exposed to the elements.  This would be a likely cause of the water leak as we do sometimes get driving rain that could come in.

The gap exposing the tar paper is twelve feet long and about two inches high.

What can I seal this with that will stand up to strong sun exposure and water?


texts: What are the issues with using sour smelling paint?

texts: My husband touched up the paint in our bedroom.  The smell was rancid, like sour milk.  I cannot believe he used the paint that went bad.  I have a horrible headache and watery eyes, an obvious allergic reaction to the mold smell.  When the paint finally dries will it all be OK?  Or are there lasting issues now with him using the sour bad paint?


texts:
I know that the pressure from the street is over 90psi in my area.

I have a pressure regulator (about 5 years old) on my main line and when all faucets are off and not drawing water the psi is set and maintains at 80psi.  Plus I have an expansion tank on my main water heater and it is roughly 5 yrs old.

However, I notice that I have had very inconsistent water pressure at various times of the day.  For example, today at 230p I saw 80psi on the meter then turned on an upstairs faucet and saw the meter drop to about 45psi with it open on full (and not coming out with a strong flow).  Once I closed the faucet it returned to 80psi.

Similar experiment just now...  started at 80PSI, turned on downstairs faucet1 right past the reduction valve and only dropped to 75, turned on the next faucet downstairs and dropped to 55psi.

I brought a plumber in who installed the reduction valve and he said that it was fine and this was a mystery.

I thought that setting the valve to 80PSI meant that it would maintain 80PSI under usage as long as the street was coming in higher than 80.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be here?  Does this sound like the reduction valve is going bad?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


texts: What type of hardware was used for these fence gates?

texts: I would like to build a gate like the ones below. What hardware do I have to buy for this?


texts: Is it safe to use timer to shut off gas boiler overnight?

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We have an aquaPLUS 280-7 r3 Valliant gas boiler. It heats the water nice and all, but it has an annoying habit of turning on overnight to preheat the water in the storage container.
The problem is, the bathroom is next to our bedroom and the noise of the igniter lighting up the gas wakes us up even when the door is closed.
I have been turning it off in the evening using the power knob. But unfortunately I am a forgetful person and thus have been woken up anyway several times. I have searched both the installation and user manuals, but there is nothing about timing the preheating so that it does not happen overnight.
If I bought one of the socket timers, would that be dangerous for the heater, if it switched the heater off every night at midnight?
I really need an automatic solution for this.


texts: Oak (and waxed) furniture over-sprayed with car-paint. How to restore?

texts:
My great-grandfather was a furniture maker about a 100 years ago.
I salvaged some of his original work from my deceased uncle's attic.
Unfortunately 2 items where spray-painted with black car-paint in the 1980's and I'm looking for advice on restoring it to its original finish.

The long story:
(Got this from my cousin who was 15 at the time and helped his father around the workshop.)
The furniture (a writing desk and matching office chair) was originally in my uncle's living room. His wife didn't like the color and ordered my uncle to paint them black. She was a very forceful woman and my uncle complied to her wishes (to keep the peace I presume).
He took them to the paint-booth in his workshop (he owned a car-repair business). Cleaned them with pre-paint (or something similar, maybe white spirit or paint-thinner) and over-sprayed them with black car-paint leftover from another job.

The furniture is made of European oak (fairly light colored, but it isn't "white" oak) and doesn't have any stain on it. It was originally just waxed.
Over the years (before the over-paint) it probably didn't see much maintenance of the wax. The other stuff I got from the attic had bold spots all over (especially knobs and handles) where the wax had been worn away. It took a fair amount of elbow grease to re-wax and polish them to an even color.
The black car-paint is most likely not water- or polyurethane based. Those weren't readily available back in the early 80's. And I'm very glad he didn't use under-coat or bed-liner for the paint-job.
According to my cousin it was just 1 coat of paint and it was a very quick and dirty rush-job. This matches with what I see: The paint is uneven, doesn't adhere well in places where there was still some wax on the wood and there are some finger-prints in the paint as well.

I would really like to get this paint off.
I'm thinking I best use a chemical paint-stripper to get the worst off. Then heat the wood gently with a heat-gun to soften/melt the wax remains and then wipe them off with a rag and methylated spirit.
Multiple treatments will probably be needed in some places, maybe some careful sanding in really bad spots.
When I get the wood clean I can use some wood-stain or colored wax to even out the color.

The back of the writing desk is intended to sit against a wall so it isn't in view. That does give me an area I can practice on before I tackle the visible parts.

I'm open to other suggestions.  Anybody with other/better ideas?


texts: Need help understanding switches wired in series

texts: I'm renovating a bathroom in my home built in 1958 and went to replace a bank of wall switches when I came upon this wiring. I've changed all of the switches and plugs in the rest of the house and haven't come across one wired like this before. All of the switches are connected together on the bottom terminal. Can someone explain to me if this is wired properly, or if it should be rewired? Also, is it possible for me to put change the switch on the far left to a dimmer switch without causing any problems? Thanks!


texts: Different hot circuits connected together

texts:
After 30 years, just found out, I had in a bedroom, two hot  different 14 gauge circuit  wires connected together in a 3 wire hot nut connection. I have a double gang box- one for the fan and the other light switch to control a receptacle.  Originally each bedroom had a light switch only. Until I had an electrician out in fans into each of the three bedrooms a few years back. Yet I had to shut off five or more breakers in my bedroom (to ensure all electricity was off to the room) to hopefully replace with new new tamper resistant receptacles.

What is the best way to trace each of these different hot to the panel (should I use a breaker finder with alligator ears or multimeter) and once I determine that, what is the best way to rewire my bedroom without disrupting the whole house without calling an electrician in.

I used a sperry votage tester--are they reliable and could it gave me a false reading with why I'm shutting off more than four circuit breakers. Or should I check it by just shutting off each circuit breakers.

Just to let you know I have traced most of all of my house wires (diagrams) back to the panel. Your advise would be appreciated? Hate to call in an electrician since I have a feeling he did this. Thank u Larry


texts: Which Polyurethane for Industrial Loft Floor

texts:
I am planning to sand and polyurethane a floor in an industrial loft, my question is what poly to use.. water or spirit based, and is there anything elae that makes a difference in choice of poly?  And do I need to stain first or will I get a nice enough golden tint from the poly?
Attached is a photo of an identical floor that was finished by someone else and I like the way it looks, not sure if it was stained first or if this appearance is solely from the spirit based poly??? I don't mind a finish on the lighter side but not totally clear.  Advice please thanks!


texts: How can I fill two or more adjacent spaces on a QO panel?

texts:
Is there a better way to fill two or more adjacent spaces on a Square-D "QO" panel than to use two QOFPs side by side?
I am aware of the QOFP from Square D but it is just for a single space:

That's all I can find.
I would have thought a 2-space blank would be an obvious thing to exist... and possibly SqD makes something else which is harder to find information on. Or could there be plates from other sources that would work?
I know there are very clear rules on which breakers could be used in what panel, but I'm not sure if a "non electrical accessory" (if that is a meaningful distinction) would also be as carefully regulated, so maybe something from another manufacturer could be used (or not).
I can presumably place several of these single plates next to each other but my recollection from another project is that even in a single space they don't fit particularly well (too small / sloppy).


texts:
I am building a tray ceiling for my living room to install recessed lighting in. Is there any general ratio's for tray size to room size? I have looked everywhere and it seems most tray ceilings don't follow any guidelines.

So, the room is 12 ft x 16 ft and 9 ft ceilings. So how do I calculate the size tray to build?

If no size to room ratios are there any general height to depth ratios, like 1x2 (9 tall x 18 deep for example)


texts: Corrosion on copper pipes due to insulation (with foam)

texts:
My incoming water pipe is copper and it is a brand new installation with no leaks.  But due to the hot humid weather (even in the basement) it sweats due to condensation.  Should I insulate it?

The problem is last year I insulated some copper pipes only to find a year later that they all corroded due to the water trapped between the pipe and the insulation.


texts: How do I wire a new fan that I'm replacing

texts:
We are replacing old fan with a new fan

The wall switches:

1 switch for the light in the fan

1 switch for the Fan

1 switch for the fireplace which is not used

The wires that come out of the ceiling are:

1-Bare wire

2-Green Wire

3-Black Wire

4-Red Wire

5-White Wire

The New fan has the following Wires:

1-Blue Wire

2-Black Wire

3-White Wire

4-Green Wire ( This wire is screw into the base of the fan so I assume it's a ground)

How do I hook up the new Fan?

Is the extra wire from the ceiling for the Fire place?


texts: How can I prevent the nuts in my shelving from coming loose?

texts:
So I got "creative" with these shelves I installed. Looking for ideas to keep these nuts from loosening. I considered just gluing them in but that would make it annoying in future if adjustments are required.

Thoughts?

I know they have nuts that specifically are supposed to not loosen but that requires me taking it apart more than I'd prefer.

Thanks


texts: My garden slopes from road towards house and rain collected outside front door. How can I stop this happening?  The garden is tarmac and I don't want to have to replace as it would be very expensive.


texts: Why is there so much metal-clad wiring in my house?

texts:
My house was built in 1893. I was recently doing some electrical work in the attic, adding some light fixtures. While doing that, I noticed that several of the upstairs outlets were wired with old, worn-looking metal clad wiring. Since I wanted to replace the outlets anyway for style reasons, I replaced this old wiring with new 14/2 NM w/G (Romex) wiring. I also used the same romex for the new lights and switches (fished into interior wall cavities).

In further exploration, I've found this house has a lot of metal-clad wiring. Not only in places where you might want some extra protection, like a long run alongside the chimney or in a crawlspace, but also in places that seem totally straightforward and safe, like first-floor outlets and light switches. And it seems relatively recent (within the last 30 years).

Is there something I'm missing that might require metal-clad wiring in this house?

Bonus question: what's a good way to recycle lots of old metal clad cabling? :)


texts: Old drills randomly starts slow and rattling (if at all)

texts:
My grandfather gave me two old drills, as he does not use them anymore. The drills are the AEG 800W Powermatic RL (SB2E-801RL) and the SKIL 1473H2. They suffer from the same problem, although the AEG slightly more than the other. When pulling the trigger, they sometimes give their full speed as supposed to, but other times they start slower, and/or they start rattling, if at all. Then, suddenly (while keeping the trigger pressed) they might step up to a higher speed. It then keeps the speed if it is the maximum speed. If not, it might receive another speed boost a short moment later, until it reaches the maximum speed, but it does not slow down unless releasing the trigger. The behaviour happens more frequently when holding the drill sideways. The frequency of the problem does not seem to be affected by choosing the rotational direction of the drill head, or the instructed velocity. Although, for low commanded velocities, it more frequently remains stuck.
Since they are completely different models while suffering from the same problem, it makes me think that this is a side affect of their old age, which as far as I know is the only property they have in common. But, what exactly causes it, and can it be fixed?
My first guess is that this is caused by old rusted and/or worn down brushes of the motor, but to my understanding this should simply lower the power and efficiency of the drills as a whole, and not induce strange step-up behaviour. So far, I haven't been able to find someone who has experienced the same behaviour with one of their (old) drills.

Update: the answer and comments convinced me to check out the brushes after all, starting with the AEG. The brushes were more easily accessible than I thought. Upon inspectation however I didn't see anything wrong. They didn't seem worn out given that they were spring loaded with at least 1cm more of travel, and their surfaces looked smooth and did not show rust. Nevertheless, I cleaned them from all the dust and carefully polished the tips,ever so lightly (perhaps not enough), with the hope that this would solve the problem. Unfortunately though, it didn't. The performance did not seem to be improved in any way. Below attached some pictures.


texts: Is it recommended that 1/8 thick plywood be used as underlayment?

texts:
Redoing bathroom floor. After removing tiles and underlayment and linoleum, the floor that's left is decrepit, uneven, wavy, has some old plumbing holes. It is not rotted though, the wood is sturdy.

I'm going to use Ditra.

With Ditra, is it necessary to have a plywood underlayment, or can I just install right over the floor as is (covering up the holes of course) and the thing will even itself out?

Barring that, if I do need to install a underlayment, can I use 1/8 plywood?


texts: Would bullet proof glass help deter burglars? How does it compare to normal glass?

texts:
We consider buying an apartment, which has previously been used as a shop. Our only concern is that it has large windows (2,5 meters x 2,5 meters), which would function like an invitation to burglars. I am thinking that we could buy bullet-proof glass to make it much more difficult for burglars, though, I have never heard about anyone doing this, and I have not been able to find any shops selling such glass. Therefore, I was wondering whether bullet-proof glass of this size would really help against burglars, and what we would be talking about with regards to price compared to ordinary glass (are we talking about hundreds of thousands of dollars per window or just a few thousands)?

EDIT: I am not so worried about economic loss, this is more an issue of whether I would actually get out of bed if I heard strange noises in the apartment at night.


texts: So, I bought this neutral silicone tube to seal a couple of cracks. The tube of silicone is still half full. How do I store it?


texts: How to Wire New 1 Way Switch From 2 Existing 3 Way Switches

texts:
I've done a lot of searching and can't seem to make sense of what to do in my situation.  I had 2 existing 3 way switches that I've replaced with new 3 way dimmers and also added a third single pole (dimmer) switch to a new light fixture.
Here is what the wiring looked like when I removed the old switches for reference:

Going off of that and making sense of the instructions the best my novice mind can, I was able to wire them up as below:

Wired this way, everything works - however, the new light fixture will only come on if the middle 3 way dimmer is also on.  Also the dimming for the far right switch works, but is overridden by the dimmer position on the middle 3 way switch.  My goal is to wire them up so I can independently control the new single pole switch on the right and new light.
Is this possible?  If so, can someone please point me in the right direction?
Here is an EXTREMELY crude MS Paint drawing:

I will take another look at it when I get home after work.


texts: Would you have done this pantry construction differently?

texts:
We're building a pantry in a small kitchen opening (about 1' depth, 6.5' height) and the original construction framing is anything but straight.

Nice cabinet-grade plywood is being used. Unfortunately there are gaps because the plywood was not shimmed before being nailed to the existing framing.

My contractor plans to insert thin strips to fill the gaps.
I am considering asking for him to take off the installed plywood, shim as necessary, and install again, since the thin strips may look obviously out of place.
Or, we can use veneer to cover up the entire surface area, including strips/gaps, but this adds even more work and would cover up the nice plywood.

How would you approach this?


texts: Running both a 120v and 240v extension cord in generator simultaneously

texts: Can I plug both the 120v and 240v extension cords into my champion 9000w generator?


texts: I have old baseboards in our house and need to replace just a two foot section. I figure it would be cheapest for me to attempt to mill mine own. I had a guy work on our house a few years back that needed to do exactly that and left me a small sample of what he made, which matches perfectly. I assume using a router would be the best bet, but what type of bit should I use to get this shape? This will be my first router attempt but I figured I would be out minimal amount of money rather than having a shop make this for me.


texts: This is a second hand router that I would like to buy. I am not sure if by the description on the package this is a plunge router or not


texts: Lawnmower cut-out and I reckon something has blown (pics inside)

texts:
Long story short, my Flymo lawnmower was exposed to rain over the winter period. When Spring came, it started up. However, I realised that I needed more slack on the cable and turned it off (there was a gentle pull against the cable when this occurred). However, when I tried to turn it back on, it wouldn't start. I replaced the cable and it still isn't working. Today, I opened the switch housing and this is what I saw:

The capacitor:

This doesn't look good?

Another shot:

The entire switch:

Any idea what might be the issue? Should I just replace the switch?


texts: wiring a kitchen under counter oven - is this setup correct?

texts:
Here are the oven wiring specs:

POWER / RATINGS

Amp Rating at 208V:  20
Amp Rating at 240V:  20
Bake Wattage:        2100W
Broiler Wattage:     3600W
Convection Wattage:  2500W
KW Rating at 208V:   2.8
KW Rating at 240V:   3.8

I've installed a 12/3 home run

And this is the breaker than I intend to purchase:

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QO220CP-Two-Pole/dp/B007IAZCQM/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1529384864&sr=8-32&keywords=square+d+breakers+20+amp

Other than stepping up the wire gauge, Is this an acceptable setup? I don't want to burn the house down.


texts: Could switching from a dimmable to a non dimmable LED bulb have caused a light fixture with dimmer switch to fail?

texts:
Recently replaced dimmable LED bulbs with non-dimmable bulbs in a light fixture/ceiling fan that uses a dimmer switch.

In the last week, it started randomly turning off and on. Now it won't turn on at all, even when I put the old bulbs back in the fixture.

Is it possible that I could have damaged the fixture or the dimmer by doing this? I have never used dimmer switches in the past and did not personally install the light fixture so I wasn't aware that there was a difference.

If so, how would I go about troubleshooting the damage?


texts: Surface mounting a metal weatherproof junction box on a concrete slab

texts:
US, Southern CA, NEC 2017
Background
I'm currently in the planning stages for a project that will include running a circuit in some buried conduit (likely RMC) to a concrete slab. At the slab I'd like to add a junction box to split the circuit off in two different directions. The concrete slab is already poured, so encasing any conduit or boxes isn't an option.
I was thinking of surface mounting a junction box on the concrete slab, something like McMaster part #7219K71:

Proposed:

RMC conduit to the slab
90 deg sweep to top edge of slab
LB conduit body at edge of slab
conduit nipple
round metal weatherproof junction box

In this location, the junction box, conduit body, and conduit would be exposed to the elements and could be stepped on, but it's not expected to be a high-traffic area.
Questions

Is "surface mounted to a concrete slab" a valid location to install a junction box?
Is this type of metal weatherproof junction box suitable to install in this location?
Are there cases where conduit is allowed to be secured to the floor for short distances, or must it always be secured to a vertical surface?


texts: Poor quality suspended ceiling installation

texts: My home has a poorly installed suspended ceiling in my basement using 2'x 4' tiles with many tiles sagging and not attractive. I am not a fan of suspended ceilings. Is there a better ceiling choice that I should consider instead? Or should I invest in replacement tiles to improve the appearance? Many of the tiles sag or are discolored. I suspect they were probably installed in the mid' 70's.


texts: What's the minimum depth that an electrical box can recess into a finished wall? Does it have to be flush?

texts:
Do electrical boxes have to be flush to the finished surface?  Can they recess any depth into the wall by as much as 1/8" or 1/4"?

Edit:  I appreciate everyone offering alternative solutions to making a non-flush, already-installed box flush to the finish, but remember that I am looking for an objective answer regarding whether or not the box has to be flush to the wall.  This is new work, so if I can get by with having it recess into the wall by 1/8" or 1/4" then I will do so.  Otherwise, I will have to alter my plans.


texts: Why am I measuring 16 volts on a wire that should be at 0 volts?

texts:
I am replacing a power receptacle at my apartment. It has the standard four wires, with one of the two reds going to a nearby toggle switch.

I am concerned because when the toggle switch is off, I measure 16V between one of the red wires and a white. (The other red wire always measures 0 V, so I assume it doesn't go to anything.)

I don't want to wire up the red if it's going to sit at 16 V when it's supposed to be off. Any ideas why this is happening or what I can do? Or is 16 sufficiently close to 0?


texts: What can cause foggy/misty/gray water when water heater is turned off?

texts:
This may be expected behavior but I thought I'd ask anyway...

We recently had gas turned off at our house in preparation for a fumigation this weekend. We have a gas water heater (with a tank) so this means we don't have any hot water.  What's strange though is that when I turn on the hot water valve on our bathroom sink, the water that comes out looks foggy/gray... almost like there's a cream or white liquid in it.

Any ideas why this is? It's clear if we just turn on cold water.


texts: What to do with these tiny exposed wires?

texts: We discovered a non-functional smoke detector that's hard-wired into the electrical system of the house we recently bought. I removed the smoke detector and am replacing it with a battery operated one. But there is one set of 4 small wires hanging out of the ceiling. They all run through one single wrap. The colors are black, red, green and yellow. The hole in the ceiling is small. I won't be able to cap each wire and push it back through. Not sure if they can all be capped together into one wire nut or what....


texts: Chromalux Electric Boiler Replacement for Radiator System

texts: I have an old chromalux electric heater heating my radiant heaters. Would it be more cost effective to replace it with a gas fired boiler? - and would I have to replace the rads or just tie into them?


texts: I live in a condo with 208 voltage, I bought a double wall oven (kitchenAid) it is rated for 240 voltage, this oven does not bake cakes and other baked goods well, they become dried on the outside and not cooked in the middle, do you think this a faulty product or is the problem related to voltage in the condo not being a good match for the ovens?


texts: creating a 120v circuit from a 240v SEU circuit?

texts:
first time here! and big apologies upfront if I'm repeating an already answered question - - searched but could find this exact answer, so here goes?

What I've got:
 a 1980's 240v circuit for an elec. range that starts at the box with  6 gauge (I believe) 6/2 SEU AL wiring coming out of a Square D 2-pole 50a breaker, and terminating in the kitchen to a Slater 3-prong NEMA 10-50 outlet.

What I need:
a simple 120v/15a circuit for the new gas range.

So, I found a video that basically said;
(a.) pull the 50a breaker and disconnect the two Black leads from the SEU cable,
(b.) connect one of those Black leads to a new 15a single pole breaker and install (cap off the other Black lead)
(c.) remove the Slater outlet, cap off the corresponding Black lead and "pigtail" the remaining Black lead and the concentric Neutral with a couple of 14 gauge copper jumper wires (using AL->CU wire nuts)
(d.) connect these two copper jumpers to a new 120v/15a outlet. Turn on the new 15a, single pole breaker and you should have 120v at the new outlet

So then, what do you all think? Will it fly? Danger of fire? Can't afford that, it's a gas range....
Huge thanks in advance for your advise!


texts: Two light fixtures in bathroom with 3 bulbs each. They can can 100 watt incandescent, I have 800 lumen LED, and there is a dimmer switch. In both fixtures, going left to right, the first two bulbs light and the 3rd does not.


texts: I'm not sure what kind of thermostat I can use -- two wires, red/beige? and a millivolt thermostat

texts:
I've been wanting to upgrade my thermostat to a smart one -- I only have an in-floor furnace, so the utility isn't super necessary, but I'd like to have a smart thermostat anyway (so I can turn my heat on as I'm making my way home).

I believe I have a millivolt system -- as I have a Honeywell TS812A1007, which is a millivolt controller. I've read online that it is possible to uprade to a smart thermostat, but that I'll need something like a 24VAC Transformer

Below is the back of my thermostat:

My questions is: is this 24VAC Transformer something I can just add on to where the thermostat lives (i.e., is it just a need for power to the thermostat) -- or do all of my options involve adding a new wire from my furnace? I've got a hunch that snaking a new wire up to the thermostat from the furnace will be the most difficult/expensive part, so if I can just run a plug to the new thermostat and have it use that + the 2 existing wires, then this won't be too difficult.

I've been trying to make sense of the thermostat schematics people have posted, but I am very novice at electricity/wiring (and by novice, I mean I got a C in high school physics and that's the extent of my expertise).


texts: Why is my sewage ejector pump running so long?

texts:
I have a bathroom in the basement.  The sewage collects in a pit with an ejector pump and is then pumped up to a pipe which feeds into the main sewage pipe that goes out of the house (see diagram).

Normally the pump runs for 10 seconds and then stops (after the float switch detects that the fluid level has dropped sufficiently).  Recently, the toilet valve got stuck open so that water was being continuously added to the bowl.  For some reason the water started coming out of the bowl and flooding the basement (my daughter noticed before it caused too much havoc).  When I got home from work I went to check out the ejector pump and could feel/hear that the pump was running continuously.  I unplugged it, then plugged it back in and it ran for 10 seconds and then stopped.

I then rigged up a device (raspberry pi) to monitor the pump and kill the power briefly whenever the pump runs for more than 30 seconds.  The raspberry pi is programmed to send me a text message when this occurs.  I installed this system in November and there have been 3 power shutoffs since then (12/4, 12/10, and today: 12/12).  Each time, cutting the power briefly seems to work (the sewage pump does not run continuously afterward), but I am sure there is a plumbing problem that needs to be addressed.

Can anyone help me figure it out?  My guess is that the main trap (shown in the figure) is mostly clogged.  I am wondering if the sewage may be re-entering the ejector pit through the vent line.  Should I rent a snake and open the cap near where I wrote "main floor" and see if that does the trick?  Is it possible that the flow control valve on the main sewage pipe is part of the problem?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!


texts: What is a good tutorial on the use of a multimeter?

texts:
I am ashamed to admit, that despite my many electrical (mis?)adventures.. I have no idea how to use a multimeter.  I have installed automobile sound systems,  central air air-conditioners, and every kind of lighting, computer, telephone, etc. blah blah blah that you can imagine… and well, have just sort of "avoided" ever REALLY needing to use one.  I have one, there have been times I would have liked to use one, and I'm sure there have been things I have in reality, needed one for..  But I really don't get them.

Can anyone recommend a reliable, relatively concise (yet comprehensive) source of training on electrical testing, multimeters, basic wiring diagnostics, etc?  (I'm hoping for suggestions that are freely available, and convenient.  think YouTube videos, etc?)


texts: Can I use a transfer panel with something other than a generator?

texts:
What I am trying to do is use a transfer panel to power some 15-amp sockets with ether a dimmer pack, or from the main. (trying to set up a theater space so when there's not a show going on you can plug sensitive things into the walls) Can you do this with a transfer panel?

More info: There are 4 sets of 3 outlets (set A, set B, set C). Each set has 2 circuits, and each circuit is rated for 20 amps. (some of the outlets are tied together, it's a bit confusing due to the fact that the space was built in the 40's, how long does it take for the plastic/rubber shell on wires to get go bad?) I want each circuit to be switchable, able to run off the main panel, or run off dimmers that run off the main panel (theses are the big dmx controlled dimmers you would use for theater or djing, they give out 4800 watts @120V spred across 6 channels). Everything would run a at 120V although I can get 240V. Even though its inside a building we get main lines (L1, L2, and a neutral, just like you would get from the street pole), this comes from a sub breaker room, that comes from a transformer, that then finally comes from the street. I'm pretty flexible as in to what the plan is in the end. Sorry if Im just repeating myself, felt that the first Q. was not adequately expanded upon, so I just restated it.

Edit2: Well at least I think its from the 40's but it probably din't go in at that time, there was also some retrofitting in the 80's so any sockets and switches were replaced, the sockets I want to power are ground level, there are no sockets on the ceiling, power goes straight from the light board, through the walls (brick and morder), to "junction boxes" on a grid on the ceiling of the stage. If you can identify the model of the light board I'm planning to take out, that would help me a lot. All I know is that its a Zinsco. And yes, it is used without problems, although it does give out dirty power (have not checked with an oscilloscope, only know by experience). I most likely am going to have to hire an electrician, but I would still like to have a solid plan. Also, as far as I know, and I have searched high and low, any electrical floor plans for the stage do not exist.

This thing also acts as the main panel for half of the building.


texts: Does voltage play any role in choosing the appropriate wire gauge?

texts:
Online, most household wiring guides suggest 14 gauge wire for 15 amp circuits, 12 for 20 amps, and 10 for 30 amps. Do these assume the voltage is 120, or does voltage not come into play when choosing wire gauge?

For example, I have an appliance that requires a 240 volt 15 amp power source. (Its plug is NEMA 6-15.) If I dedicate a circuit to this appliance, which is about 25' from the panel, will 14 AWG be sufficient? Why or why not?

When 14 gauge wire is appropriate, I've seen 12 used instead. (My home has several circuits like this.) I realize 12 AWG wire may be more difficult to work with, and it costs more than 14 AWG. Beyond these, are there reasons not to do so? Are there any advantages?


texts:
After looking at it more carefully:

So it looks like the 30 amp breaker with the 14 gauge wire is to the garbage disposal.
The AC is wired the a double pole 20 amp with 14 gauge wire.
The two single pole 15 amp on the bottom right (red and black) are spliced together (wire nuts) to two wires coming from the same metal conduit, two wires but are both black.
Ground and neutral wires are connected to the same bus bar in the same slot.
These things seem odd to me...

Updated with more pictures.


texts: If I am seeking lumber that has an actual thickness of 11/16", what nominal size (e.g. nominal for 3/4" actual is 1x...) should I be looking for? I need it for a window trim.


texts: If I cut the pin on my meter and remove the meter in order to replace the incoming power breaker, will I get in trouble? I live in the United States.


texts: how do I protect a new engineered wood floor from sofa wheels

texts: I'm getting a new engineered wood floor fitted next week and have an existing sofa with castor wheels at each corner. What's the best protection from damaging the floor? I don't want to put a mat under the sofa.


texts: How do I prepare a painted wall before applying an orange peel texture?

texts: I have a sheet rock wall that had been primed and painted.  I would like to put a orange peel texture over the top. What do I need to do to prep the wall if anything?


texts: Three way switch circuit leaking voltage

texts:
I have a hallway light fixture controlled by three switches (panel -> 3 way -> 4 way -> 3 way -> fixture). Lights in this fixture routinely burn out within 6 months (incandescent, cfl and led -- all name brand).
The other night I noticed the LED lights had a very faint glow even though the power to the lights had been turned off for hours. I've removed the bulbs from the fixture and measured around 40 volts of stray power at the socket with the power turned off. Flipping a switch returns the voltage to 120. I tried all 8 combinations of switch positions and had the same results.
All three switches are non-illuminated "dumb" switches.
I then removed each of the switches and tested resistance with my multimeter. These are regular n-way switches, not smart or illuminated. The wiring in the boxes is textbook. They each show near 0 and '--' for resistance depending on the switch position.
I'm nearly certain each of the switches are still good but don't know where to go next in troubleshooting. What would cause the stray voltage? Is this likely what is killing light bulbs? Is this dangerous? How can I fix the extra voltage?


texts:
I have some outside door trim that has come loose. Below are two pictures showing the difference between the top and bottom of the trim.

I looked at this thread but it was not very helpful as the selected answer talked about taking the wood, gluing it, and clamping, but there is no part of this trim that would allow it to be easily clamped. If anyone has any suggestions how how to tighten this back together I would really appreciate it!


texts: Compatibility of aluminum fittings with brass rough-in valve

texts:
I am wanting to add a permanent electronic temperature sensor to a brass rough-in shower valve.  For this particular rough-in valve, I can thread a thermowell into the outlet that is normally used for the tub spout, since no tub spout is used.

I can easily turn and thread an aluminum thermowell with my lathe, but I want to ensure that the aluminum and brass will be compatible (i.e. no corrosion) in this application.  I have not been able to find any data on using these two metals together in a potable water application.

The reason is I'm trying to avoid having to purchase the more expensive brass stock, and utilize my existing aluminum bar stock instead :)

Thanks!


texts: Distance between floor and breaker panel?

texts: How far off the floor should my circuit breaker box be? I'm changing from a 100 to a 200 amp. The lead in wires are underground and come into the bottom of box making them too short to connect.


texts: What is the typical sink water supply line size in San Jose del Cabo Mexico?

texts: What is the most common under-the-sink WATER SUPPLY LINE SIZE in San Jose del Cabo Mexico? Most plumbing goes by American standards. If no one answers I'll just make repeated trips with the old tubing to their local Home Depot and they will know. Thanks.


texts:
I had a dishwasher flood, due to plumber putting it in wrong. I had the hard wood floor replaced, the cabinets have mold on bottom of it, and the sides that I can see are bubbled up to about half way up. First how should this be repaired? At first they said something about a skin? But I think all the wet boards should be removed and all the bottom due to the spots I saw that had mold?

Second, we have two walls that I know got wet, the base board is all discolored and will be replaced. But what about the wall how do I know for sure the wall is OK. Do I need a mold inspector? Is there a good chance there is mold?

The person taking care of this said the dry wall was OK, but is same person that said something about putting skin over the cabinets.


texts: What are the pros and cons of LED lighting for home use?

texts:
I'm interested in installing LED lights in my home, and I'm having a dilemma between buying LED bulbs and rolling my own solution. I have some questions on how to DIY:

How efficient is it?
  Single 1W led can yield about 90lm which sounds impressive, but when coupled with rectifier losses, dimmer, and resistors, what lm/W should I expect for 8 * 3 leds on 12V transformer?

Quality of light?
  How comparable the warm white is to fluorescent light-bulbs? Would mixing few yellow LEDs yield nicer color?

Other things to consider?


texts: Is it safe to connect dish washers and laundry machines to hot water?

texts:
Is it a good practice to connect the dish washer and laundry machine to the hot water line, instead of the cold water line?

My house has heated water, so this would save energy and time; I wonder if there are any risks or caveats.


texts:
I am planning to remove drywall ceiling and expose the beams. The area is above kitchen and family room. There are quite a few recessed lights and fans.

What considerations I have to bear in mind when I do this in terms of home value and sellability ?


texts: What rivets should be used for gutter work?

texts:
I'm looking to buy pop rivets to do some gutter replacements, but the smallest "advertised for gutter work" pack available was a 100pk. I'd probably only need 20 at the most (short span). There weren't any dimensions listed, but common sense says they would only need to be around 1/8" x 1/4". Assuming any substitutes should also be aluminum.

What size would be adequate for joining aluminum gutters?


texts: I have recently moved into a new home and discovered that my dryer plug does not fit into the outlet. I have a three pronged plug and need a four prong plug. how do i wire the new cord into my dryer?


texts: Leaking Shower Floor: Shouldn't there be a liner here?

texts:
I'm trying to find out what's wrong with a leaking shower floor in the basement. Having eliminated all the surface possibilities, I removed the drain and hammered out the floor to examine the drain pipe. I dug down to where the pipe is, but I expected to see a liner here. Isn't this where the liner should be, tacked under the pipe mount (don't know what to call that flange)?

There's definitely a smooth surface here, so I'm at the division between a couple of different layers (i.e., base layer dried and hardened underneath top layer). Everything I've found about drain construction makes it sound like there should be some barrier at this point. I'm worried that the lack of a barrier right here might be the problem (meaning the whole shower's coming out).

Thanks!


texts: How do I share the same cold water pipe for both my dishwater and washing machine?

texts:
I have one cold water source, the pipe looks like this:

I would like to connect two of these pipes this the source:

How do I do this?

The best I could find was something like this. But the connectors are too narrow for the pipe, and the tap needs to be in a Y shape ideally, so that both pipes connect roughly horizontally.


texts:
I need recommendations for a data cable that allows you to use it with direct burial. I am thinking CATA 5e.

Thank you!


texts: New switch appears to work, but seems to show voltage running through switch buttons, is this normal?

texts:
As it says on the tin, I just installed my new switch, and it seems to work just fine (both switches function as expected - the wiring/setup was identical between the old & new switches), but (thankfully), before I touched the switch after turning the power back on, I ran my AC voltage detector across them, and surprisingly there was voltage detected.
I thought maybe this is normal, but after checking all of my other switches, no voltage was detected in them.  So now I'm afraid to touch the new switch!
The condo is an older building (built in '63) and has no grounding wire; I made sure to mount the switch to the metal box first before testing, as I assume it grounds itself to its box.  Any experts here that can advise?
Here's a link to a photo of the old wiring pre-installation, and the new switch showing current on the buttons:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/weTS8YD2wdm3tqVm7


texts: What are some options for a small electric water flow control valve?

texts:
I'm looking for an electric water valve for a DIY project. I need to be able to close it partially so as to control the water flow rate. The exact details of how to control it are not important; I'm sure I can build the necessary circuitry.

Could someone please recommend one?

The only valves I find are either huge industrial valves or unbelievably expensive (£500+) lab valves.


texts: Furnace Displays Heat Pump mode when AC is running

texts:
I have a new Trane S9X2 furnace I purchased this winter. I want to make sure that everything is setup correctly now in the cooling season. I noticed that the furnace displays "HP1" when the AC is running. According to the manual, this is "Stage 1 Heat Pump" mode. As far as I know, my AC unit does not function as a heat pump. I expected it to display "CL1" for First Stage Cooling.

The AC appears to be working fine. Cold air is being blown out the vents so I'm reluctant to call the service company to take a look.

Is this even an issue? Or is there some minor wiring issue with my thermostat? I have an EcoBee thermostat if that helps.

Thanks!


texts: How can I remove mold from the underside of garage roof sheathing?

texts: Home inspector found mold in roof under sheathing in my garage.  Mold professional says they spray a fungicide to kill it and then spray with a tinted paint.  Extremely pricey!  You cant clean it off because of the roof nails everywhere.  Is this the only way?