texts: Do separate pieces of EMT conduit qualify as "pull points"?

texts:
Question: Do two separate pieces of EMT conduit joined by a connector qualify as a "pull point"?

Background:
I need to make six 90 degree turns in 2" EMT conduit to route wire for a new sub-panel which means my run is subject to NEC 2011 clause 358.26:

358.26 Bends — Number in One Run. There shall not be
more than the equivalent of four quarter bends (360 degrees
total) between pull points, for example, conduit bodies and
boxes.

However, I cannot find anywhere that the NEC specifically defines a "pull point" other than the examples of "conduit bodies and boxes". It makes sense to me that "conduit bodies" means having two separate pieces of conduit joined with a connector (as per the connectors to the 90 degree bend in the above picture) because the conduit bodies can be separated to allow for pulling without over-stressing the wire, but I want to confirm if this is the correct interpretation.

Or, do I need a special elbow pull fitting like shown below (the picture shows smaller conduit), or are these fittings just for convenience if you later decide to pull more wire through the conduit?

Picture credit of http://www.diyadvice.com/diy/electrical/cable/metal-conduit/

EDIT: Thanks to all for your answers. I somehow overlooked the definition of conduit body in the standard:

Conduit Body. A separate portion of a conduit or tubing
system that provides access through a removable cover(s)
to the interior of the system at a junction of two or more
sections of the system or at a terminal point of the system.
Boxes such as FS and FD or larger cast or sheet metal
boxes are not classified as conduit bodies.


texts: Is my dimmable LED tape compatible with any 12V/2A driver?

texts:
I bought a fairly cheap LED tape kit that comes with a driver and dimmer. The dimmer is a small inline module that sits between the driver and the LED tape.

The driver has 12V/2A output and is integrated into a horrible, black moulded plug. I want to replace this with a standalone driver and implement some nicer cabling. I don't see anything on the driver unit that indicates any kind of "dimmable" compatibility.

My question is whether the dimming compatibility is handled purely between the dimmer and the LEDs? Can I swap out the driver with any 12V/2A replacement?


texts: Fitting recessed lighting without damaging ceiling

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I'm trying to add recessed lighting into my hall. There's currently a pendant light in the middle, which I'll be removing. I then want to add 6 240v (UK) GU10 fittings. There's no insulation in the ceiling cavity as it's downstairs.

I don't really know how to go about physically wiring it all up though. The ceiling is Artexed (as much as I wish it wasn't!) and I really want to try and fit all this without causing a lot of damage to it, as I don't think I'll be able to match any repair cleanly.

I can get all the fittings in place without too much trouble, and I can slip a junction box into the cavity where the pendant is now. I can then fix that to be just flat and smooth, and cover it up with a smoke detector.

My problem is the beams:

I don't know how I'm supposed to get the wiring in between all the recessed fittings without cutting loads of extra access holes into the ceiling. I've got a decent threading kit, but:

Do I just drill holes in the beams to thread the wires?
If so, how? The holes required for the fittings themselves seem like they will be far too small to use.


texts: How to reduce amplification of solar inverter relay due to drywall?

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I have recently had solar panels installed on the roof of our attic. They hung the inverter on a hollow plasterboard wall as this was the most easily accessible.
However, every time the solar inverter turns on, there is a rather annoying series of clicks of an internal relay, and the sound is massively amplified due to the hollow wall onto which it is mounted. I now have two options,

Hang the inverter on an outer (stone) wall nearby. Since I don't want to void my warranty right away (or worse, create a fire risk with diy DC cabling), this probably involves getting the contractor over, and the inverter would have to hang over the stairs making it quite inaccessible.
Somehow reduce the emission of sound from the drywall.

What options do I have for the second option? I suppose I can put some damping material between the inverter and the wall. My instinct would be to drill the screw through felt patches, but maybe there are better options? Also, the sound might still transfer through the screws into the wall. Perhaps there exist purpose-built wall plug / anchors with sound or vibration isolation?


texts: Is it possible to tell from labels if the breakers are AFCI / GFCI in the main panel?

texts: I'm deciding if I should upgrade my main panel, and one of the input I want to understand is how different is this panel from modern code requirement. From the photos below, is it possible to tell if these breakers are GFCI / AFCI compatible? Besides that, are there anything else I should consider for safety?


texts: I bought a house about a year ago and ever since there has been a ton of cracking noises coming from the attic. They sound like thermal expansion noises, but they happen all day and night, in any weather or temperature. I notice them the most in the master bedroom. When it happens, it's never just 1 pop, it's 3-4 back to back and they appear like they're in line, like the noise is moving across the ceiling. It happens several times a day, sometimes within the same hour. There are no cracks in the drywall that would indicate structural problems, but this is my first house so I'm not exactly sure what to look for. Is this something I should get checked out?


texts: Slow drain after tub-to-shower conversion

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I recently hired a plumber for a tub-to-shower conversion into a first floor (slab) master bathroom.  I had already removed tub and demo'd the walls, so the scope of work involved:

Extending existing copper lines up into exposed wall for shower valve/head
Add 2" PVC drain/p-trap in center of shower (including slab work and new concrete), coupling to existing 1.5" drain inside slab (using Fernco coupling)

Number 1 was pretty straight forward.  Number 2 was also straight forward, although I wasn't sure about the Fernco to adapt the 2" PVC to the existing 1.5", but he assured me this was standard practice:

I was happy with how everything turned out initially, and after tiling we started to use the shower.  But we noticed something strange: for the first minute or two, the water would not drain fast, and would start to puddle (~1"), but then all of a sudden all the water would drain and it would stay that way for the duration of the shower (ie, no puddling at all near the drain).  It has been about 4 months and now the 'puddling phase' lasts more like 4-5 minutes and gets deeper, but then, like magic, it all suddenly drains.  We used the bathtub as a shower for years and never had any drain issues.

Other things to mention:

There was no roof vent for the bathtub, but it did have the standard stopper assembly so this could have acted like a vent?
The original drain in the slab is about 48" from main sewer line (toilet), which has a 4" roof vent.

My main questions are:

Why does it drain slow at first, then suddenly drain normally?
Did the plumber use proper technique, ie, the Fernco?
Is this a vent (lack of) issue? (If so, I'm screwed)

Thanks for reading.

UPDATE (01/25/18): I have contacted the plumber who did the work.  I told him about the "double trap" theory, which totally makes sense to me.  However, he is not yet convinced as he says he "has done hundreds of tub-to-bath conversions and never had any issues if there was a tub trap in the slab."  He thinks it is some type of obstruction in the line, and will come out and run the line to try and push out whatever might be in there.  My engineering/physics mind makes me less optimistic than he is, but I hold out hope since it is, by far, the easiest solution.  Fingers crossed, and I will update soon.

Another UPDATE: The plumber finally came out (he was battling flu).  He contended that there should be no problem with having a new trap as part of the shower drain which feeds into the slab where there is (presumably) another trap...as long as there is a down-stream vent, which there is.  However, I was really skeptical since what Josh said below made sense from a physics point-of-view.  His thought was that there was simply some blockage somewhere; which again didn't make sense since the water drains well after running for a few minutes.  He proceeded to use his auger to try and clear out the blockage.  Well, we were all very surprised when he pulled out a 4" piece of 1/2" copper all wrapped up in a big hair-mess.  WTF?  It must have fallen in the drain when he did the original work, and the only explanation to why it drains well after a few minutes is that it somehow "floats to the top" or whatever and gets out of the way.  Not sure we'll ever really know why, but now the system drains well, no problems at all.  I don't really care since I won't have to redo things to fix it. :)  Just thought I'd post in case anyone comes across this and wonders about this same type of problem.


texts: double ball bearing vs single ball bearing ceiling fan

texts:
I ordered two Havells fans from online.  I received two types with almost the same features except the following one, which is:

Double ball bearing ceiling fan
Single ball bearing calling fan

I am confused now, which one is better? Which is newest? Which one I need to return?


texts: Is this the correct approach for installing 3/4" Hardwood floor?

texts: So I've been thinking of adding a hardwood floor in my dining room and hallway.  This is what I know as of right now.  I have Hemlock 2x10 Floor Joists spaced apart 16" OC that span 13 feet and the home was built in '71.  The subfloor as it sits right now is 1/2" plywood with what seems to be 1/2" MDF or Particle Board nailed on top.  I've noticed the floor is not perfectly level and might be due to the MDF warping and expanding from moisture.  From what I've been researching it would be best to rip up the MDF (or Particle Board) and gluing the 3/4" plywood and screwing it down to the existing 1/2" plywood (not to the floor joists).  Then lay down a vapor barrier and then the flooring at a right angle to the floor joists.  Is this correct?  I just want to get all of my ducks in a row before I go spend money.


texts: I'm building a cat climbing wall, and plan to have a series of large "pegs" as steps. My plan is to use 1-foot lengths of landscape timber (basically a 4" diameter log) and attach directly to the wall studs using one 3/8" x 3" dowel screw for each peg. All shelf brackets I've seen have a lower support brace and more than one screw connecting to the wall, so I'm slightly concerned that one screw won't be enough to support the cantilevered weight of a cat (~15 pounds, plus dynamic forces). Is this realistic, or will the screw pull out, or will the log put too much pressure on the drywall, or any other reason why this would be a bad idea? Should I just put the screw off-center toward the top of each log so there's more of a lower brace, or use bigger dowel screws, or will I need a proper shelf bracket to support the peg?


texts:
I have just installed these cool black iron pipe for shelf brackets on an office wall. The wall is 3/4” pine 7.5” wide.
Each pipe is attached with 4 #10 screws 1.25 long.

Each board is attached to framing at the top plate and at purlins as indicated. The tape indicates where studs are.

I did not attach directly to studs because it made for odd spacing on these 98”  shelves.

I have been questioned about the decision not to attach on studs over strength of shelf concerns.

Is there any reason to think these supports will be inadequate as installed?

Shelves are for books and will be 1” thick pine boards 11.5” wide. Supports are 23”  on center.

Should I move the supports to the stud location?


texts: Needing help on this, adding another switch to existing switch for fan and light to turn on separate with a bit of a curveball!

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Spent all day trying to figure this out without any luck! I am trying to add an additional switch to an existing one with the end goal of being able to turn on the fan from one switch and the light with the other.
Existing wires and hardware:
12-2 coming into the box from the panel. 14/3 from the switch box to the ceiling fan. Two single pole switches. 12-2 coming into the box that sends power to the bathroom on the other side of the bedroom wall (vanity light and bath fan on independent switches).
How I wired it in the switch box:
Attached to the 12-2 power wire that is connected to the panel, I have wire nut connecting the black hot to the black wire headed into the bathroom as well as two pigtails that provide power to each switch. The switch with the red switch leg is for the light and the other switch's switch leg is for the fan. All neutrals are wire nutted together (one neutral coming from the panel, one that goes into the bathroom, and one from the 14/3 wire going to the ceiling fan. All grounds are wired together with two additional pigtails, one for each switch.
How I wired it inside the ceiling fan box
All three grounds are wired together (one for the fan, one to the fan bracket, one from the 14/3 traveling from the switch box). Red wire from one of the switches is connected to the blue (light) wire on the ceiling fan. Black wire from the other switch is connected to the black wire on the ceiling fan. White neutrals are wired together (one from the fan and one from the 14/3 wire from the switch box.
My problem
Essentially I have wired it like the diagram in the attached photo the only difference is the addition of the 12/2 wire that heads into the bathroom. My issue here is the switch with the red switch leg (right hand one) doesn't do anything when flipped on. Furthermore this switch has to be flipped on for the other switch (left one) to turn on the light, which is the wrong one for the light control. Once the light is on by flipping on the right switch then the left switch, either switch can turn the light back off again? It seems like the power is jumping back and forth between the switches? I should note that the bathroom vanity light and fan work as they should regardless of what position the ceiling fan switches are in. I spent many hours looking for the answer but no such luck on the interweb and thought I give this group of smart people a try. Does anyone know what to do here?  [![Diagram I followed[


texts: Temperature in Condo hotter than thermostat setting- Gas Furnace

texts: I recently bought my first place (a condo) and I have a gas furnace. The thermostat is set for 72 and most of the time it seems to be following this alright but periodically even though the thermostat is still set at 72 the furnace comes on and the temperature in the condo goes up to around 77-87. There isn't a day/time setting on the thermostat (though the thermostat is digital). Any advice as to why this might be happening?


texts: How to deal with paint fumes from 2-pack paint?

texts:
I recently had the bilges of my narrowboat painted. They used a paint with two components that needed to be mixed, and warned me that it contained 'isocyanates', and to avoid sleeping on the boat until the fumes had cleared.

They said it was aircraft paint they had left over from another job, and that it would be very hard and so good for preventing rust in a place which is unventilated, damp, and uninspectable.

Initially the smell was overpowering, but they told me that the fumes would go away in a week or so.

A month later, although the smell has gone down a lot, there's still a smell of paint fumes in my bedroom.

Does anyone know what these fumes are likely to be? The smell itself isn't too troubling, but I wonder if they're poisonous.

I tried sleeping there last night, and woke up with a slight sore throat and have had a mild headache today (might be coincidence, of course...)

Any good ideas for getting rid of the fumes, apart from the horror option of ripping up the whole of the boat and grinding off all the paint and re-doing it? Will they eventually just go away on their own? Is there any way to speed the process?


texts: Can I apply stain to an oil treated oak counter top?

texts: I purchased a counter top that was pre-treated with one coat of wood treatment oil at the factory. Can it be stained and varnished ?


texts:
GE Cafe series C2S986

The maunfacturer's spec is 30 amps for oven. Want to replace existing  range wire ( old 3 conductor for the mid '80's) on a 50 amp breaker.  What size wire for this new 30 amp "oven" circuit would meet the current code?


texts:
I have a GE GSS22JEPDBB model fridge. The water line that goes into freezer door and then to the dispenser is leaking water right at the bottom of the door. Not sure exactly where. I suspect this is the source of the leak because it was damaged during a move. Unfortunately, I found out that I cannot replace this particular water tube, I would have to replace the entire door.
Is there any way to somehow seal the portion of the tube by gluing a seal as a 'wrapper' of sorts instead of shelling out $hundreds for a door? Any creative suggestions?


texts:
I have some deep but thin cracks in a driveway. (Pictures below).
I also have a trowl patch and crack filler bottle from Home Depot.
Which (if any) would be most appropriate for filling these cracks? (This driveway wasn't maintained for at least a decade, and sees occasional snow (it's on Long Island, NY)
Materials

Cracks:

Tree Root Causing Crack:


texts: How do I prevent harmonic resonance hum in PVC vent of newly installed hot water heater?

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I just had a new power vented water heater installed (HTProducts Phoenix Light Duty) in our crawlspace. The contractor that put it in used part of the existing 3" concentric vent from the furnace we removed used.

The issue is as the exhaust fan gets up to higher speed a loud hum starts in the vent that sounds a bit like a (albeit quiet) fog horn. This noise is nothing like the fan noise close to the water heater. It's low frequency and loud enough to annoy us in our bedroom on the second floor and most likely our neighbor.

I am fairly certain the issue is to do with some kind of natural harmonic happening in the exhaust vent and this is reinforced in that if you momentarily cup your hand over the vent exhaust (blocking the air flow) the hum stops and it goes back to the quiet expected noise for maybe 10-20 seconds, sometimes longer, depending on what the fan is doing then.

Has anyone come across this or have a solution? Total length of pipe isn't really an option as we can't move the water heater position though the length of where the smaller pvc pipe from the water heater exhaust joins into the 3" may be.

EDIT
Thanks for the suggestions. Further info: The fan is built into the water heater unit and as it is new and is controlled by the water heater cpu and I don't want to void the warranty messing with the fan is out. The manufacturer said they haven't heard of this. Based on the noise and feeling the vent pipe I think the standing wave is caused by the fan beating the air and there is minimal vibration on the vent itself. Also the hvac guy that put it in has three ninety degree angles in the 2inch pipe before it goes into the 3inch which then goes straight outside.

UPDATE
So after installing 3inch pvc pipe the whole way from the water heater to the concentric vent and still being puzzled at the hum the contractor started going back over everything and after adjusting the combustion mix it appears the hum was caused by too lean a mix.


texts: Natural Gas Fireplace rust starting at flue inside house, should i be worried ? What can i do to fix?

texts:
Having a hard time finding information online about my situation.
Only owners manual I don't have for the appliances in my house.
Luxors Gas fires - Model - MB-36


texts: Is it OK to borrow a ground wire from a different circuit?

texts:
I've got a circuit in the basement carrying a handful of outlets.  This circuit has no ground wire.  I want to add a couple of outlets and want them to be grounded.  I may even want gfci outlets on them in the future.  I have no reasonable way of getting a ground wire to the panel but I do have easy access to another circuit that does have a ground wire.  Is it acceptable to borrow or share a ground wire between circuits?  If not, why not?

Both circuits are 20A with 12 AWG wire.


texts: How does one set the temperature threshold for heatpump? Carrier Infinity

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I've just had a Carrier Infinity heat pump installed, with the matching smart thermostat. The only problem with it is that while it has three settings for the heat source:

Heat pump only
Electric heat only
System in control

There's nowhere to set the threshold temperature for electric heat. Where I live, you can have -30 celsius one day and 3 celsius the next day. Currently, system in control would still use heatpump at -30. Trying to pump heat with a 50 degree differential is not only inefficient, it also shortens the equipment lifespan. My previous thermostat, nest, would switch to auxillary heat below -6 celsius.

Reseller was supposed to tell me how to access the admin settings but doesn't ever get back to me. Is there a general approach to figuring out where this setting is? The thermostat UI doesn't seem to show it anywhere.

Data about what I've got installed:
(snippet from a french invoice, so apologies for my french)

25VNA036A003 HEATPUMP CARRIER INFINITY GREENSPEED 3
FE4ANF003L00 FAN COIL 2-3.5 TONNE VITESSE VARIABLE 1
KFCEH3201F20 ÉLÉMENT ÉLECTRIQUE 20 KW 1
SYSTXCCITC01-B THERMOSTAT INFINITY TOUCH WALL 1

(I can handle a voltmeter and I can also capture the network traffic of the device connecting to the infinity server, if this is of any help)


texts: Can I tile over a horizontal band of tiles in my shower?

texts:
The grout in the bottom half of this shower was going bad so I removed all of the grout below the horizontal band and re-grouted.

The horizontal band appears to be water tight but it's a hot mess.  The small tiles are extremely uneven and poorly aligned.  Many of the gaps are extremely small.  In many places, they have gone over the grout with what appears to be a grey epoxy.

My first plan was to clean it up and then apply a "Grout Renew" product on the lines.  I tried that tonight and ran into major issues.  The grout renew would not stick to any areas that have been covered in the grey material. Because the gaps are so small, trying to scrape it out would take forever (and if I did succeed at that, I'd just be tempted to regrout...)

I'm now thinking that maybe I can just tile over the horizontal band of tiles with a row of subway tiles in a different color.  It will mean that this row of tiles sticks out further than the rest of the wall.

Is that an option?  Has anyone seen that done before?


texts: How do I properly prepare newly-finished drywall for priming?

texts: What is the minimum amount of dust that can be left on a wall before it adversely affects primer application?  If it has to be completely free of dust, how do you get it all?  Taking a damp rag over the wall seems to be the way to do this based on my own research, but then you have to rinse it wring it out.  This dirties up the water which just means more particulates would end up back on the wall as dust after the water evaporates.  Plus, going over all walls and ceiling of a 250 sq ft room with a damp rag just seems like a PIA.  Is there a better way?


texts: Major issues fitting new drain to bathroom sink

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So I’m replacing a bathroom faucet. Faucet went on no problem. The drain however, is not going so smoothly. The previous drain was the metal popup kind. The new one is a Pfister push & kind (example here).

Now, this drain comes with a rubber gasket that is supposed to sit in the sink bowl, under the flange. The manufacturer expressly says not to use plumbers putty.

The problem I’m having is with my sink! There are two issues:

1) The sink is uneven so the drain does sit flush; as I tighten the assembly underneath, the drain pulls to the right.

2) There isn’t a recess that accepts the rubber gasket AND the flange, so both sit above the bottom of the sink. It seems like there’s some kind of ring of epoxy or plastic where the rubber gasket would otherwise nestle into.

So, what are my options? Ditch the top/sink side rubber gasket and use silicone? Try to remove that interior ring of material and hope the gasket and flange will fit into it and sit lower in the sink bowl?

I’m at a loss!


texts: Flexing in the boards where my studs should be

texts:
I am putting up a TV Wall Mount on a wall in my basement.  I used a stud-finder to find the appropriate places to drill, and lined everything else up with a level.  The stud-finder showed me the 2 places, the appropriate 16" apart.

The problem is, when I drilled into these places, while I definitely felt like there was something beyond the drywall to drill through, there was some "bend" or "flex" to whatever it was.  It was definitely harder to drill through than the drywall itself, but I am pretty sure it was not a full-on stud.  This is a semi-interior wall, given there's a closet behind half of it, and behind the other half of it is the ground.

My questions are as follows:

What do you think I hit? It's kind of odd, but it seems like whatever I drilled into is actually thinner than a stud.  I'm hoping I didn't do something really stupid like drill into a water pipe... but there was no water or anything that came out of it, so I do not think that this is the case.

The TV I'm mounting is a 65" flat screen, weighing approximately 61 pounds. Am I insane for thinking I can still put the TV on the wall like this? I was able to lift myself off the ground and hold myself for a few seconds, and the mount didn't shift at all (and I weigh a hell of a lot more than a TV).

The alternative I guess is to set it on the TV stand, but it's large enough that I'm not 100% sure that it'll fit (need to measure) and I'd like to still be able to secure it to the wall to a degree to help prevent it from falling over (say, on top of a roaming child).

I feel like what I've done now is good enough for a 60 pound TV (4 lag bolts, all secured in these "bendy" studs) but I wanted to get some more opinions and see if someone knew for sure what was going on before I did something stupid.

Thanks.


texts: Best way to drill square tubing (Without drill press)

texts:
When drilling all the way through square tubing, I often snap my drill bits.
If it’s not possible to drill from the other side, is it better to drill a slightly bigger hole first followed by a smaller hole?


texts: Recommendations for finishing a workbench

texts: So I was successful in building a workbench for my garage. The final part is finishing it. I was thinking of just applying 1-2 coats of Zinnser Bulls-Eye Shellac Clear Traditional Finish and Sealer. Is this a good choice? Any other recommendation? The workbench is made from standard 2x4s and baltic birch plywood, so nothing fancy.


texts: All breakers tripping during generator transition

texts:
New construction with a Koehler full house generator and Koehler transfer switch. All this work done by a licensed electrician. This is a seasonal home and so my ability to monitor is through the Koehler app. When I lose power I also obviously lose my broadband connection so I know - or assume- that power has been lost.

I recently lost connection with the generator and I had to travel to the house I found that all the breakers Han been tripped. The research that I’ve done that the arc fault breakers (which are required by code) are finicky and they have sometime tripped when power returned but it seems weird to me that even the 30 amp dryer breaker tripped.

My concern is that even though power company power and gen power is back but since all the breakers have tripped power to the house is not on so no heat or refrigerator power which defeats the purpose of backup power
Has anyone seen this before?

My first thought is to contact the power company to see what power is being delivered to the house.
When I test the system by switching between gen an Poco everything works fine. Would a whole house surge protector (like Siemens or Eaton) help with this?


texts: What are the important things to consider when jaws are used instead of the knife-edge for measuring internal dimensions?


texts: Industry standard blocking placement for shower mixer valve?

texts:
I was wondering if there is an industry standard in terms of what depth to set shower mixer valve blocking at?  In your traditional house the wall is only a 2x4 depth, meaning a block of 2x4 would only leave 2" of depth if the back side of the shower mixer wall was drywalled.  I have read that the standard plastic ground is supposed to be flush with the finished surface of the shower wall, in my case, tile.

According to these instructions, that makes me have to bump my 2x4 blocking OUT of the 2x4 stud cavity.  I have this luxury because that is not a finished wall surface.  However, it seems odd - even backwards, and it seems like I would need the block to stick inward instead because I have a thicker wall than a normal precast shower enclosure.  I'm going to have 1/2" tile board, the thinset, and 1/4" tile.  These numbers don't add up and I am thinking I made a mistake.  It's a Delta shower kit, meaning mixer valve, shower head, and trim rings all in one and not something universal.


texts: Gap between house and wood deck -- to fill or not to fill?

texts:
I have a low free-standing deck that keeps accumulating debris like leaves between the house and the deck, about a one-inch gap. Is it possible or advisable to fill this gap with something? Maybe like Great Stuff?

The length of the deck along the house is about 20 feet, and the deck is basically is resting on the ground like a big glorified wooden step.


texts: Can you build a retaining wall vertically with no angle?

texts: I am planning to redo our front steps in stone and my plan is to essentially have two stone walls on each side of the steps coming down from the entrance. For appearances it would be definitely ideal to keep these walls completely vertical for the aesthetic, but I am worried that the weight of the compacted gravel under the steps will be too much of a force pushing on the wall. PLUS, since were up in Canada, I'm concerned that water that inevitably gets into the gravel will push those walls outwards when it freezes. Is there anything I can do to keep it vertical or is that a pipe dream? Thanks for your help!


texts: GFCI outlet doesn't work after reconnecting

texts:
I reconnected my GFCI outlet but now it doesn't output electricity even though the current coming in tests positive (with a pen like current testing device). I also pressed the reset button, to no avail.

What are some reasons GFCI outlets won't output current to a plug even though proper current comes in? The other (non GFCI) outlets on the same circuit work fine.


texts: How can raise a downspout drain from ground level (Picture)

texts:
I have a gutter downspout in my backyard that leads to a 4" clay drain which leads to the municipal sewer line.  Currently the opening sits at ground level.  I'd like to raise the ground level a few inches to provide more of a grade away from the building.  How can I raise the opening such that it is a tight connection that will NOT allow earth infill to go down the drain?

In the picture, you'll note plastic adapters that connect rain gutter to drain (which would not prevent dirt/sand from going down the drain if I raised ground level).

UPDATE: Thanks for the comments.  To clarify, I'm concerned that the plastic adapter (lower, yellowed plastic piece in picture) does NOT provide a tight enough connection to the drain and that it would lead to dirt/sand getting into the drain.  I'm OK with the gap between the bottom of gutter downspout and the rectangular-to-round adapter (for now).

As to some comments, I'm not looking to change the grade of the pipe, but rather the grade of the soil/mulch to allow for better water runoff away from the building (water that doesn't go in the gutter/drain).  Also in this neighborhood, it is a combined sewer/storm system.


texts: I'm trying to figure out what this item (left behind by the previous owner of the house) is. Can anyone help identify it so I can determine whether it should trashed or not?


texts: Why do grindstones produce a finer finish than sandpaper?

texts:
I don't understand why a grinding stone seems to produce a much finer finish than the same grit of sandpaper.
For example, if I grind a piece of metal with an 80 grit silicon carbide grinding stone with a vitrified bond it has an almost mirror finish, but if use 80 grit sandpaper on the same metal it looks all scratched up. What's the difference?


texts: Deck with hatch to access storage area - thoughts on hatch design

texts:
I am doing a free standing deck.  ~20'x14'.  Current design is 3 beams (3 member 2x12s @ 20') and 2x6 12"oc joists that span 7' between the beams.  3' of cantilever on each side of the end posts.

Footings with be 10" thick 3'x3' with a 6" concrete column.  Bottom of footings will be 18" below surrounding grade.

There will be approximately 4' of height from the bottom of the beams to the ground, slightly more under the 2x6s.  I am going to put 5/8" ply on the surface and a torch on membrane followed by loose lay composite.

The idea behind the torch on is the membrane is good for > 30 years and the area under the deck would be dry.  I'd slope the deck surface 2% away from the house for drainage at the torch on layer.  Composite on top of it would be for aesthetics.  The grade is only 2' below the sides of the deck so I don't want a 1' crawl way or to have a recessed access point so I am thinking the hatch is the best plan to access the storage.

There is a basement with walls that are 4' below the deck storage area. There are pdrains around the foundation with a powered sump system. I'd plan to slope the ground under it 2% away from foundation and install a perforated drain on the edges of the storage depression that lead to a gravel well that leads to the perimeter drain. At the depression depth I'd be below the rain drain level.  The grade is fairly level outside the deck structure.  I'll put landscape fabric overtop the dirt and then a 2" layer of river rock.

The hatch will be a hole in the member and will allow some water to go into the storage space.  My thoughts are either I have the hatch closest to the house at the high area that also has a bit of an overhang and might get more overhang later when I swap the single door for a slider or I put it at the bottom of the 2% slope farthest from the house but where the water hitting the gravel would more quickly get to the depression perimeter drain.

How big should I make my hatch?  Any thoughts on design?  Ideally it would blend in with the surface of the deck and not be super noticeable.  Since I'd want the hatch to be walked on would I put joist hangers on the beams and have removeable 2x6s that support the hatch?  Or maybe go with a piece of steel for the hatch.

Quick structural sketch of the deck.


texts:
I have a 16'x20' deck roof that is attached to my garage on one side and (3) 4"x4" posts on the other side.

The rise over the 16 feet is about 2 inches which is not enough for the water to get off the roof. It's pooling in certain spots. Probably because the 16 foot run is unsupported in the middle and it sags.

A friend is recommending that I jack up the roof, saw off 4 inches off the bottom of the posts to get the water to run off.

My concern is that this would rip the roof off the garage wall. Is this a practical way of introducing more pitch? Or is it better to just rip down the current structure and redo it with the appropriate pitch?


texts: How do I chain edison bulbs together with a junction box?-

texts:
I want to chain 6 Edison Lights
They are a Standard Edison base, E26 medium, 120 volts.

I am going to be hanging them on a 18 gauge wrapped copper wire.

I am wondering how to wire them together and then wire them to the ceiling box pictured below. I am also looking at using this Keyless socket. 660 W. 250 V

I have looked at a junction box picture below but not sure where to go from here. Do I chain the cables together somehow?

Here is a a image of my junction box, I think thats what its called in my ceiling


texts: At what height should a stair handrail be?

texts: I am almost dne replacing the steps to my front porch.  It is 5 steps so I definitly need a handrail, but I don't know exactly how high to make it.  I have some posts that should be plenty tall but I can attach the handrail at any point along the post.  I assume there is some standard height from the stair tread that is usualy used in the US.


texts: Running electrical cable within dry wall

texts:
First of all, I'm a beginner.

Secondly, I've a renovation started in the basement (see picture here), so I need some help.

So in the bedroom, there's actually a socket already present just as you enter on your right. However, the rest of the two sockets that I want to add are, unfortunately, covered by newly placed drywall all around (I know... stupid). So the dry wall starts to the left of the first electrical socket as you enter on your right and goes all around.

So my question is, whether or not it is possible to run cable on the floor and then within (but not behind) the dry wall so that I wouldn't need to remove it? How can this be done? What about an Ethernet cable?


texts: Garage door lights: which cfl bulbs work?

texts:
I discovered yesterday that led bulbs cause RF interference and disrupt the use garage door remotes.  While I could look for a low interference led bulb, they are rather expensive.  I had some cfl bulbs lying around, so I decided to try to use them.

One weird thing was that one cfl bulb worked, while the other cfls didn’t.  This has nothing to do with the light switch.  To test this, I turned the light on, and then tried various bulbs.

So the question is, why would this cfl bulb work on a garage door opener socket:

While this cfl bulb doesn’t work in a garage door opener socket (I tested it in a lamp and verified it is a functional bulb that lights):

What is the technical difference between the two that makes the garage door operate with one, but not the other?


texts: How does a snowblower perform on exposed aggregate concrete?

texts: I wish to replace my asphalt driveway with concrete. I am hoping to do something a little more visually interesting than just a slab, though. I like the look of exposed aggregate, but I am concerned about snow removal. Will my snowblower constantly catch on the rocks? Will it leave snow between the stones that builds up to ice? Does anyone have experience snow blowing exposed aggregate?


texts: Plumbing alteration has created vacuum in upstairs toilets

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Prior to my bathroom remodel, I had a toilet flange moved in my basement to a standard 12" rough-in, since the toilet was about 5" off the wall and looked silly. The problem I have now is a vacuum in the upstairs toilet lines, such that when I flush one, the other toilet (opposite wall) sucks down water and vice versa. I believe this to be related to the plumbing alteration since the toilets seemed to work fine beforehand.

When the plumber jackhammered up the floor he noticed a split in the pipe. Because of this split he couldn't move the toilet and said he had to remove the split. BTW, he said he never sees this sort of thing. The split seems to be where the vent pipe connects to the main plumbing.

Once he removed the split, he diverted the vent pipe (and bath sink) into the main wall pipe.

You can see how the vent pipe now tees into the larger pipe (upstairs plumbing) and then goes into the floor where it meets the new toilet line. He seems to have tapped off the old pipe

So, now to my question. Is it obvious from this plumbing change as to why I now have vacuum in the lines? Next question, is this plumbing alteration correct?


texts: Can I damage my water heater by turning the gas valve to the off position?

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We have a water heater in a new house that we bought.  We have not moved into it. I decided to turn the gas off to it so that I wouldn't be wasting and paying for gas.  Will this damage the water heater in any way?

We have not moved into it so we are not really using water. The contractors are there and they use very little water.

It's been a couple of months since I've turned off the gas valve at the water heater.


texts: Wiring a new range when your box had three wires and no plug. I have a new Kitchenaid induction range.  My old range was directly wired with no plug. Wires were twisted together and a nut was placed where they joined. How can I use the wires and plug in a 3 or 4 prong plug?


texts: How do I replace a 7' drop ceiling so it matches an 8' ceiling with 2 layers of drywall and popcorn texturing?

texts:
I would like to remove a dropped ceiling and give the room an 8 foot ceiling.  The great room ceiling has 2 layers of drywall already.  I need to repair many areas of the ceiling (remove an attic fan, move ceiling fans, etc.).  I also want to add blown-in insulation.

What is best way to fix this problem keeping in mind the weight to the trusses?

Scrape popcorn, repair holes, and re-texture, and then remove the dropped ceiling in the kitchen and add 1 or 2 layers of drywall to match the 2 layers on the great room ceiling and add blown in cellulose insulation to bring it to R-30.
Remove all layers of drywall (insulation would fall into room) and simply put up one layer of drywall and texture.
Remove the drywall completely (like 2) and install a wood ceiling.


texts: Is it possible to add a branch to existing fireplace blower?

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My fireplace has two blowers behind grates in the brick. Fans behind these lower grates mix air with heated air from behind the firebox and kick out a serious amount of heat into the room. The heated air is forced out of the upper grates on each side of the fireplace.

I have created a golf simulator in my garage and am looking at heating options. Is having a mason create another tunnel/branch terminating in the garage, though the cinder block possible? The garage is located immediately behind the fireplace.


texts: Why would a circuit breaker not trip if I accidentally shorted hot to neutral?

texts:
I am installing a set of recessed lights in a closet, replacing the existing fixtures one at a time.  I removed power to the lights while installing each one by using the light switch, not the circuit breaker at the box (after verifying that the the switch was wired correctly with the hot side being switched, not the neutral).

I successfully installed the first light, and had just pulled the second one down. I turned the lights back on to see better (since the other fixtures still worked), but didn't notice that the now bare and exposed hot and neutral wires from the fixture I just pulled were touching.

When I turned on the switch, the lights did not come on and you could hear a deep growling noise somewhere in the house, very similar to water hammer noise.  I turned off the switch right away, not knowing the cause.  I turned on the switch again with the same result.  After turning off the switch, I inspected the wiring from the fixture and discovered the short.

As I understand it, the time it takes a breaker to trip is basically inversely proportional to the current draw.  A dead short should be VERY high current, and I would have expected the breaker to trip instantly.  It did not do so.  Questions:

Shouldn't the breaker have tripped?
If so, I can't trust the breaker and should replace it.  But, how do I go about testing the other breakers in the box?  They are all old...  probably original to the 1964 house.
What was that noise?


texts: I bought two of these RGB led strips of 5 meters and would like to connect them together. Is is possible to do this with the power supply I have or would I need something stronger or maybe an amplifier?


texts: Is it code-legal to have a circuit breaker box within a storage room?

texts:
I am currently in the process of planning a room remodel to convert an existing bedroom into a home office and storage room.  One thing that makes this conversion a little bit tricky, is the existence of a breaker box at the rear corner of the room.

As you can see in the image below, we plan to have the back 5' of the room become a storage area (there would be 2' deep shelving units along the back wall, stopping short of the breaker box, we would use this area to store Christmas decorations, misc. stuff, etc..).  I know it is illegal to place a breaker box in a closet that will store clothes or other combustibles.  So my questions would be: 1) how would one define a storage room vs. a closet (i.e.- could this be classified as a walk in closet somehow?) and 2) with > 36" clearance in front, and 30" around, would this be legal?


texts: Letters on a gas shut off/on valve meaning

texts: My question is what do the letters "P" and "L" stand for on a key shut off valve for gas logs?


texts: Can wireless ceiling fan controls work without a direct wire to a wall switch?

texts: Is there a wireless controller that can control fan without the direct wire from switch to fan?  There is direct power at fan, and direct power at switch but they are not connected together.  Looking for a way to control fan without running wire to fan.


texts:
250ft from main panel in house to greenhouse out back. Greenhouse will have propane heater and one 120v outlet.

Today I dug 100 ft trench to the house 1ft deep. I put 1" and 3/4" conduit in the trench along with a 12AWG THWN solid copper wire (tracer). The 1" conduit will have a MDPE gas line, the 3/4" conduit will have THWN wire. I know MDPE can be direct burial but I like the idea of having it in 1" conduit just in-case.

I'm running 4 THWN conductors 10AWG. At the house, 10-3 NM-B will splice to the THWN in the LB as it exits the house. In the greenhouse I have a small outdoor rated 70A subpanel; 2 circuits.

Questions:

1) Do I need a grounding rod at the sub panel? I know it should NOT get tied to neutral.

2) I will install 30A GFCI breaker in main panel, 1 pole or 2?

3) Can I install two 15A breakers in sub panel, each would be 120V?

4) The breakers in sub panel can be non-GFCI, correct?

thanks.

Edit - Update

Trench is 18" now, my back is out also!
I will make sure the LB I use is labeled with volume calc.
I changed to a 30A 2 pole non-GFCI in main panel; then put the GFCI's in the sub panel. I'm hoping this would cut down on nuisance GFCI trips.
HomeDep0t won't take back my 10AWG custom cut THHN wire, I really want to switch to 8AWG for voltage drop. But the subpanel circuits will have very light loads so if I can't find a buyer for the 10AWG, then that's what I'll use.
Can someone review the connections in pic? This is Square D 70A Homeline Outdoor Load Center. I added the wiring diagram to the pic.


texts: How can I remove the switches that control outlets?

texts:
In the house it seems that the original owner wanted all top outlets to be switched and the bottoms to be always on. I hate this and want to fix it.

So I took all the outlets out from the one room. Now I have two sets of red,white,black,ground at each 1 gang box. How can I properly wire each new outlet to always be on and to only use the white,black,ground without re-running wires?

I tested the wires at the switch box and now I am not getting any power to them, so I'm assuming its safe to cap these wires and hide them in the box, correct?

Update: I found which outlet gets the power from the feed. However, when I connect it to the outlet, all red wires become hot. How is this even possible if the next outlet is disconnected completely? Aren't outlets typically daisy chained? I have 5 outlets in the room and my switch is disconnected. The switch seems to work backwards and start at the last outlet.

Update*: Only two outlets are actually showing that red is hot when all outlets are disconnected.

I believe this is how its wired.


texts: How do I install a washing machine when the drain is 7.5 feet high?

texts:
My washing machine drain is 7.5 feet from the floor.  I plan on researching my washer and making sure it can pump that high.  I want to hook it up to a 1.5 inch PVC pipe drain.  The 1.5 pipe is above my main sewer drain.

This leaves me with less than a half foot to connect it to the 1.5 drain pipe.  How should I do that?


texts: How can I figure out what material my row home's interior and party walls are made out of?

texts:
I'd like to hang some shelving on the wall in my kitchen that separates my home from my neighbor's. How can I figure out what material this wall is made of? The home was built in 1950. The party wall is completely solid if you knock on it with your knuckles and there's only one small metal object to be found with a magnetic stud finder; I'm assuming a screw or nail that was never cleaned up. It's smoothly finished and painted. Taking a hammer to it results in a lot of resistance and the tiniest indentation.

The interior walls are also sort of a mystery. I've hung two ceiling fixtures so I actually can describe them a little better: They're roughly a half inch thick, crumble when you try working on them and are hung directly to the joists in the ceiling. No lathes makes me think drywall but the crumbling makes me think otherwise.

This has always made it tough to do any work to the house. It's impossible to make a clean cut in the interior walls since they crumble and the party walls are very intimidating.


texts: can you combine a regular return filter if you have a electrostatic hvac filter system as the house? we moved into a house that has this system but my kids have allergies and i understand that the electrostatic filters are not great if you have allergies.


texts: How long should I let caulking dry before exposing to water?

texts: I am redoing my bathroom and going from a tub with shower to just a shower base and walls. The walls are fiberglass and caulking is being used to seal everything up. How long should I let everything dry before using this shower?


texts: Can I repair this corroded shutoff valve on my own?

texts:
I just noticed that this valve is corroded and slowly leaking (arrows point to the leaks):

I started looking online for information and found this page, which discusses different types of valve, but I can't really tell whether this is a compression shutoff valve (install with wrenches) or a copper sweat shutoff valve (solder into place). Which is it, and is this a repair that I can make myself, or should I bring in a professional?


texts:
I have this section of the wall just above my bed, recently it became a bit dirty so I used a sponge to clean it. Unfortunately now I'm left with a a big green mark on the wall and it wont go away.

I think the only way it to paint over it . is there any other option ?

If I paint that half a meter squared section I donx't want it to much noticeable from the rest of the room
What should I do ?


texts: I need to extend my furnace vent pipe up 2 foot above the ridge of my roof to comply with IBC. So I need to couple this pipe somehow and extend it up. Any idea what type of pipe this is and how I would extend it?


texts: Why does power to entire house go out when I turn on the microwave

texts:
Renovating a house. Hired electrician to replace the panel, all wiring and the service line coming from the meter. Went out to test it yesterday and when I turned on the microwave power to the entire house went out, except for a few flickering lights.

Outside I can hear a crackling sound where the line enters the house. After about 10 minutes, the power restored. I've described this to the electrician who is scheduled to come back out, but can someone please explain what is going on here?


texts:
Hi. Hopefully someone can help me with this.  I have a dimmer switch that controls a ceiling fan with lights. I want just a regular on/off switch. When you run the fan it makes a noise unless the dimmer is jammed all the way up. It only controls the fan however there is a regular switch right next to it that controls a outlet.

It looks like this.

1 has a black wire connected to a piece of black wire which is connected to the switch. This seems pointless but what do I know. It also has a red wire connected to absolutely nothing.

2 and 3 have black wires connected together with a black wire coming out of that and going to the switch.

4s black wire is just connected to 2s white wire.

The remaining white wires are connected together.

Can someone please tell me how to wire this to a regular switch? And do I need a special switch? It seems like a awful lot of wires. The dimmer just says 600w120vac60hz5a

I was just going to shove it back in and deal with the ugly tan switch but I’m not sure about that red wire.  Any help would be great.


texts:
I have a projector I plan on mounting to the ceiling in my basement. It just so happens that I have an unused light fixture receptacle which had been covered with a plate, right next to where I am tying to mount it. I know how to replace an electrical outlet, but I had a few questions:

Is light fixture wiring capable of handling the 350 Watts the projector consumes (the additional 3A shouldn't be a problem, I don't think)
There are 4 wires of each color (white, black, and bare). Why so many? Which ones do I use?
I have yet to measure whether or not this receptacle is on the same circuit as the lights, but if so, how do I get this outlet off of the switch? Since I would like to use the projector with the lights off, I need this circuit to always be hot. This is my biggest question. I would prefer not to have to run additional wiring to that spot on the ceiling.

Since it always comes up, I live in Maryland (USA).


texts: Why would two sub-panels be cross-connected?

texts:
I have a house with 2 main 200 amp panels. These will need to be replaced as the are Federal Pacific. Each panel has its own 200 amp main breaker. I am in the process of tracking down what wires go where and it appears that the 2 panels are cross connected by a 30 amp 2 pole breaker in each.
Why would you do this and isn't this dangerous?
The wire in question is:
Left box second black cable on top right
Right box far/first right cable on top right


texts: Insulating Existing Walls with Lathe & Plaster, Wood Siding, and Stucco

texts:
I'm working on an old studio (single-family, one-storey, with minimal crawlspace and an attic), which currently has no added insulation. As-is, the estimated heat loss is 12.5kBTU/hr (for a 30°F temperature differential), which is a bit insane for a 300 sq. ft. space. Factoring in attic insulation (at R-15), it still only gets around 10kBTU/hr. The biggest source of heat loss is in the walls (after the attic gets insulated), so I am wondering how to go about insulating them, since they already exist and are nearly 100 years old.

Things worth mentioning:

The walls are lathe & plaster
There are fire braces about halfway up each wall between each pair of studs
The exterior was originally wood siding (no house wrap moisture barrier, of course)
There is now ~1-2" of stucco on the exterior, on top of the wood siding

It turns out the stucco really helps keep the place cool in the summer by rejecting heat ingress, but due to the high air turnover rate, this means that the house stays generally cooler than ambient in the winter too.

I'd really like to hear some ideas on how to get my walls insulated. Getting them to ~R-10 overall would go a long way to reducing my maximum heat loss.


texts: I have built my 3rd homemade slot car track from MDF. Stuck on surface paint

texts:
I have finished my 3rd homemade slot car track from MDF. I have sealed it properly all the way.

My first 2 tracks used a cheap latex paint for the track surface. This was when there was a higher rubber content in the cheap latex .
The higher the rubber content, the better traction the slot cars get with the urethane tires.

Now after 15 yrs has passed the cheap latex no longer seems to have rubber in it. So I am at a loss as to what to look for in order to get the higher latex content.


texts:
My wife decided we needed a smart thermostat... which means I need to install said thermostat...

Currently a Bryant Evolution series is mounted. She purchased the Hive with Hub when it was on sale.

The Bryant is wired using A, B, C, and D at the thermostat. Those wires run to my Bryant Plus80v furnace. They plug into the corresponding spots on the 4 circuit communication connector. There are also at least 3 wires that are not connected on either end.

My question is this... Can I disconnect the wires from both ends and move them over to the bigger board (W2, Y1, DHUM, G, COM 24V, W/W1, Y/Y2, R)? Obviously using only the necessary ones that correspond with the Hive.


texts: Building a basement at or below water level?

texts:
Is there a method for building a basement that would be at or slightly below water level?

We have a home that is built roughly 50 feet from a creek that's generally dry during spring and summer until it storms and then it fills fairly rapidly. I'm interested in building a basement level on the home, however I know I'm going to have to contend with water at some point and am attempting to research creative options to be minimize headaches for contending with water.

I suspect a pretty serious polymer layer will be necessary and I'm curious about what others have seen and experienced when faced with perhaps similar scenarios.


texts: How do I install a ceiling light where one never existed?

texts: I am installing a hanging light fixture in a room that had no lights in the ceiling. There is a ceiling joist running down the center of the room. What is the best way to mount the fixture? Is there a finished piece that is big enough to cover the box if I mount it to the surface?


texts: I recently changed a timer out in 3 switch "bank". In changing out the timer I accidently touched the Common from the timer to another light switch. It short circuited. Since that time the timer works fine but the other two switches in the "bank" do not work. I have checked the breaker and it DID NOT trip. Di9d I burn something out in the wall? And is there danger of fire. I changed out the switch that was touched by the Common still nothing> Thanks for any help.


texts: Why does my one-way switch have 4 wires?

texts:
My bedroom light is controlled by only one switch (as far as I'm aware of...), so I assumed my switch would only have 3 wires (current in, current out, ground). However I opened my switch and I saw 4 wires (see picture below). What is the 4th wire for?

UPDATE: If I reverse the two "push to release" wires, this switch seems to end up turning on/off a completely other switch in my bathroom. For example, after reversing the wires, in order to put on my bathroom light, I have to put on this light. So I guess this switch is connected to my bathroom somehow, and that is related to the 4th wire. But why, and how?

BTW, I am asking all of these question because I want to install a dimmer switch.


texts: AC: Powering a 25 amp appliance from 2x20 amp breakers

texts:
I want to use a 25 amp appliance but only have 20 amp breakers.

Work around
I am thinking of hot wiring the output of 2x20 amp breakers so that the 25A load is distributed between 2 breakers instead of one, preventing the breakers from tripping and giving me up to 40A of power to work with.

Is this possible and would it work?

Update
Thanks for the feedback.
I decided it is best to get an electrician around to wire a new 30A breaker, wiring and new wall socket.


texts: How to remove chrome sleeve from copper pipe on vanity?

texts: enter image description hereI am getting ready to replace the vanity in our older home. The problem I have is how do I remove the chrome sleeve from the pipe so I can attach fittings to the copper pipe. This looks like a compression fitting. Is the sleeve attached to the fitting or compressed up inside. I would like to use the same pipe just remove the sleeve. How can I remove the sleeve without damaging the copper pipe. The pipe can be cut, there is about 2 ft between the floor and the fawcett. If I cut the pipe with the tube cutter will I be able to remove the sleeve? Anyone have experience with these? The sleeves are new to me. Thanks


texts:
I'm swapping out outlets and this one has me stumped. This is in a room of switched outlets (top outlet is always hot, bottom is switched) so the red/black side tab on each outlet is broken off. The white side is not.

I was working on this outlet which is a bit of a mess. There are 3 whites, 2 reds, 3 blacks.

I've been getting in the habit of switching the wires out one-for-one, so I first take off the blacks, put them on the new outlet, then the reds, etc, so I can replicate the original wiring.

What has me stumped here is that I appear to have two separate circuits connected together in the same box.

Here's a shot of the 'leftover' tips of the white wires in the old outlet:

as you can see they were all connected to one side and the tab was not broken. Am I correct in assuming this is essentially a pigtail (all wires connected together)?

Because what is confusing is...

...of the 3 whites you see coming out of the box, the leftmost and rightmost are 'hot' on two separate circuits. The center is not (so I assume this is a branch line to other outlets).

Does it make sense that I'd have two circuits coming into one outlet joined together like this?

Am I okay connecting these together on the new outlet or do I have some serious wiring issues here?

I should clarify the '2 circuit' issue. I have to turn off two separate circuit breakers to make sure all the lines are dead in this outlet. I've also found a second outlet (in the same room) wired up the same way--I need to kill two circuit breakers to make sure the hot wires are off.


texts:
Revised: September 27, 2020 @ 4:30 PM.
Background Information
This is an existing installation by a national builder. I had to dig up this section for another reason and found a PEX splice. I wanted to determine if I need to do something to better protect the PEX pipe before covering this backup.
Side Rant: It may have been installed by code, inspected and approved, but code is a minimum standard.  Sometimes minimum standard is fine. Sometimes, the inspector misses it or the installation is altered after inspection.
I may decide to buy the tools or decide to hire a plumber (if I can find one) with the correct tools to fix any problems before I re-bury the line. Let me be the judge of what is too expensive.

Questions

Does PEX pipe that is buried in the ground need to be protected? If so, how?

Does PEX pipe fittings / splices buried in the ground need to be protected? If so, how?

How should the PEX pipe be protected as it is going through the PVC sleeve penetrating the footing/foundation?  It appears that the PVC could cause chafing of the PEX over time via expansion / contraction process.

The writing on the PEX says, "Pure Flow". Is that PEX-B?

PEX Splice
The PEX Splice appears to be a plastic fitting with copper crimp rings.

Pureflow PEX Writing
Note: I noticed that as I was cleaning the pipe, the writing was coming off the PEX Pipe. The dirt was acting as sandpaper. So I have be very careful as I was cleaning the dirt away from the PEX so that I could get a good picture of the writing on the PEX.

PureFlow Water Systems Installation Manual - June 2009
Source: https://www.houseneeds.com/upload/pdf/viega-pexsystemmanual.pdf
`
I did a search and found "PureFlow Water Systems Installation Manual".

When direct burying PureFlow fittings, PEX Press fittings do not need to be wrapped; however, Brass PEX Crimp fittings do. When Brass PEX Crimp fittings are put in contact with ground soil by direct burial, it is the position of Viega, that these brass fittings and copper crimp rings be securely wrapped using self-fusing, fully cured silicone rubberlike tape with a minimum 0.020" thickness.

Contact a Viega representative for additional information on approved wrapping materials.

Viega PEX Water Systems Installation Manual -
Source: https://www.pexuniverse.com/uploads/literature/viega-pex-installation-manual.pdf

Viega PEX Crimp fittings (Eco Brass and Polymer) and their crimp rings shall be securely wrapped with tape meeting the following criteria for direct burial installations.

Self-fusing
Formaldehyde-free
Fully cured silicone tape
Minimum of 0.020" thickness

The wrap is available from Viega (part number 15320).

** Repair coupling tape (PN: 15320) **
Viega Website: https://www.viega.us/en/products/Catalog/Heating-and-Cooling-Systems/Heating-and-Cooling-Solutions/Couplings/Repair-coupling-tape-2890-4US.html
** Product Instructions - Viega PureFlow Coupling Repair Wrap **
Vendor instructions to using the "Coupling Repair Wrap": https://www.viega.us/content/dam/viega/aem_online_assets/download_assets/us/pihc_560939_1119_coupling_repair_wrap_enesfr.pdf
Note: Viega Wrap appears to be similar to the SharkBite Wrap idea provided in the "jwh20"'s answer below.
Costs
SharkBite - Non-Adhesive Multi-Purpose Silicone Wrap

HomeDepot: $13.98

Viega - Repair Coupling Tape for PEX Press Fittings (PN: 15320)

SupplyHouse.com: $22.39 - Out of Stock

Viega - 10 foot Coupling Silicone Tape (PN: 15320)

Ferguson: $29.09 - Out of Stock in my area


texts:
I have a couple recently installed (By a professional licensed electrician) GFCI outlets outside a barn, both on their own circuit.

Both have water trough heaters plugged into them - 1500 watts each.

These have been running for about 2 months now without any problems until last night; we got a hard freeze (around 10°F) and everything had frost on it this morning (if that makes any difference) and now one of the GFCI outlets isn't working.

I looked at the circuit breaker and the circuit the outlet is on was tripped, so I reset the breaker and the outlet still won't come on.

I've tried unsuccessfully to push the reset button as well as the test button, but neither click (I believe the test button should click when it's pushed far enough and it shuts the circuit off).

So at this point, I'm wondering what could be the issue and what are the possible issues and the best ways to track down the problem.

Could the circuit breaker be dead? If so, is there a way for me to test it?
Could the GFCI outlet be dead? Or maybe there's some frost frozen in there that I might have to thaw out to see if that does the trick?


texts: I used liftoff sealant remover on my fiberglass shower and where it pooled in the corners it has eaten away the enamel. Is there anything I can coat it with to seal it again?


texts: Can I put drip edge underneath felt without removing roof?

texts:
Whoever installed the roof on my house put the bottom drip edge on top of the felt underlayment instead of below it. This is causing significant rot on my fascia and eaves. (I don't have any gabels.)
A new roof would ultimately solve this, but I can't afford one right now. Is this something I can remedy (or at least improve) on my own? If so, how should I go about it?

Update: This roof is shingled with architectural asphalt shingles (Certainteed Presidential). It's missing a starter strip. By "fixing" this, my first notion would involve getting the felt out from under the existing drip edge, either by:

Removing the drip edge, and sliding it underneath the felt to reattach it, or
Bending up the existing drip edge and sliding a new one underneath both it and the felt, or
Cutting the felt just above the drip edge, and slide a new, wider drip edge above the existing one and below the remaining felt. This may also involve adding more felt above the new drip edge.


texts: How can I decommission a copper pipe through a concrete wall?

texts:
A previous owner of my house installed a 1/2" copper tube gas line through the basement wall beneath ground level to install a grill, which an owner after him removed, leaving the line buried. I found the buried portion of the line when I accidentally hit it with a pick while digging a French drain. Long story short, I now have removed all of the gas line except the portion stuck in the wall.
I avoided crushing the part of the tube inside the basement:

The outer part didn't fare so well, it twisted and crushed while attempting to pull the line through to the outside:

At this point, I just want to make sure that water and bugs can't come in through this hole. Having a flat wall as a result would be a plus but isn't strictly necessary. Complete removal also isn't strictly necessary. I can think of 3 options:

Cap the inner part of the tube and leave the outer part as it is, or try to crush it into a crimped end. This doesn't leave me with a flat wall, and the tube may fill with water from the outside, but at least none of it will come into the basement and none of it should be able to get into the wall either unless there's a crack in the tube where it's encased in concrete.

Cut the inner portion flush with the wall and fill the tube with something. Could be a little difficult to get the filling material down to the outer end, but not the end of the world.

Drill out the tube and fill the hole. This would be the cleanest look, but the most work. On top of that, the length of the remaining tube is about 2 feet and I don't know if I could get away with drilling only the tube using a metal cutting bit, or if I would need to remove some concrete too with a masonry bit (in which case I would expect the copper to interfere).

Is there a way this is normally done? The closest process I could find to this is "pipe abandonment" which normally consists of filling an underground pipe with cement, but I only see pipe abandonment mentioned when talking about industrial or commercial-scale pipes.


texts: Is it safe to ground electrical appliance?

texts:
I have a large lamp with a metal frame which is not grounded(which I thought is a legal requirement for metal framed appliances in my country, but perhaps not).

Is there any risk if I swap out the 2 core cable with one that contains an earth, and ground the frame?

Am I'm being paranoid?


texts:
first time on this forum but I could use some washing machine waste advice.

My brother and I are redecorating our entire house, including the rather small kitchen. We'd like to move the washing machine which is currently in the kitchen to make room for a dishwasher.

An ideal location for it would be at the top of the cellar stairs along with the tumble dryer. Running the hot and cold water lines shouldn't be a problem but the only waste drain location is outside the kitchen (the reason for the washing machine's current position) and the dining room is between the cellar stairs and the kitchen. The dining room has a concrete subfloor so running a pipe though this doesn't seem doable, especially with the right drop. The only option left that I can see is to run the waste pipe through the dining room ceiling but this presents the problem of gravity.

I've attached some pictures to help with understanding how things are laid out (excuse the mess but we're in the middle of redecorating). Open to any suggestions, however radical, although the cheaper the better.


texts: I need help wiring a double switch in the bathroom

texts:
I have a new build.  I need help connecting the wires to the switches in the bathroom.  Here is what I have:
a double switch: one runs 2 lights and the other runs the exhaust fan

I have 3 black wires, 3 white wires and 3 neutral wires

for the switch running the 2 lights I connected the 2 white wires together and connected the black wires to the screws on the light switch and the neutral to the switch as well.  This switch is working fine.

for the switch running the exhaust fan i hooked a black and white and neutral to this one and it will not work.

Should I have somehow hooked the single exhaust switch into the other switch?  If so how do I do this.


texts: What is the proper way to power an in wall monitor for a new construction home?

texts:
A wall has been framed out to mount a touch screen computer monitor. Once the monitor is installed it will be used as a home automation hub.

What is the proper way to supply power to this monitor?  The monitor needs to be plugged in somehow to 120v electrical outlet, while also meeting NEC code.

This monitor also has a small power supply (shown below). Where should the power supply be housed? There is a cavity behind the monitor, within the wall framing, for it to sit, but that doesn't seem safe, especially when there's a label on the power supply, "Caution, my get hot".

The current plan is as follows:

Run the line cord through an electrical conduit. I would first lengthen the monitor's factory line cord by cutting off line cord's wall plug and the ac power supply plug, and then splice a SO cord to the wall plug and power supply ac plug, lengthening the line cord. At this point the line cord is around 20 feet, which would then be fished through the gray electrical conduit in the picture. At the end of the conduit is a junction box where the line cord comes out of the wall and plug into a wall outlet, which is a couple of feet away from the junction box.

If I went this route, that would mean splicing the factory monitor line cord, in order to lengthen it. And if that was done, does doing so break code if the splice is inside the gray electrical conduit?


texts: How do I cut a hole through vinyl siding?

texts:
I would like to ventilate my bathroom fan to the exterior of my attic and outside. We have vinyl siding. What is the proper way to cut a hole in the siding?

I have a 4" hole saw for the wood.


texts: Is there a universal colour code for screw bits?

texts:
Lately I've been seeing colour coded screw bits, like in the set below (from Lidl's store brand, Powerfix).

(Click for larger version)

Red for Phillips head
Blue for Pozidriv
Orange for slotted
Yellow for Torx
Pink for hex

Is this colour code universal? Or do other brands / manufacturers use different codes?


texts: What material to use to patch a hole near a heater?

texts:
The previous owner installed a base-board heater in the bathroom, but did a really poor job.  Below the heater, there is a hole in the drywall where the wiring goes into the wall about the size of silver dollar where cold air is blowing into the bathroom.  The hole is well concealed (only visible when I get down on my hands and knees), so I'm not worried about it from a cosmetics point of view, I just want to seal it so to stop the draft.

What material(s) should I use that close to a heater?


texts: How can I repair a textured ceiling without making a mess?

texts:
I have knocked out a couple walls and never really made it fit right with the ceiling pattern - Is there an easy way to replicate this ceiling texture?

Also as time goes on I am noticing that the nails they used to hang the drywall are losing their bite.  This is only in the main living area which is completely open now.  So I need to probably hit most of the ceiling in this area with a lot of drywall screws.

I also have a couple of hairline cracks to fix too but these are rather small and have done that before.  So just lots of ceiling issues.

If I can get all of the furniture out of these 4 rooms (kitchen, front room, living room, dining room) - and these rooms are all open to each other - what kind of ceiling treatment can I use so that I do not have drywall dust all over my house and something that will deal with the already swirl/sand that I have?  (Acoustical texture isn't an option.)


texts: I have to replace several light units that are secured with this type of screw. I assume this is a type of tamper resistant screw. Can anyone tell me what it is called?


texts: Can i use tubing for drain-water under my sink?

texts:
I have to change the dranage under my sink the pipe is in the way for some kitchen appliances.

I can't find any pipes that would work for me, so i consider doing a fix using tubes.

My plan is to the bend of an existing pipe and replace it with a tube that fits on the outside of the tubes and keep it in place with a hose clamp. This would allow me to move the tube so it's not in the way. Would this work? What kind of tube should I use and is there anything else I should think about?


texts: Wires run through foundation vent screen

texts:
I need to replace the foundation vents in the house I recently bought. Unfortunately, AT&T, Time Warner, and others have run wires through one of the screens.

I can't easily detach the wires to run conduit. What is my best option for sealing this vent from critters?


texts: Can a 240V circuit be split to make two 120V circuits when 240V is no longer needed?

texts: I have a 240V circuit that is no longer needed. Can I split it into two 120V circuits?


texts: Running electric to barn: what size subpanel?

texts:
I wanted to run my plans by qualified electricians before running electric to my new barn. I have a 270' run from my house to the new barn. I am running 1 1/4" sched 40 2' down the entire distance.  I plan on running 3 strands of #8 thwn plus ground off a 40 amp double pole breaker in my home 200 amp service panel out to a subpanel in the barn which I haven't bought yet.  I have already sunk a ground rod 8' down within a few feet of where the subpanel will go. I will remove the bond between ground and neutral in the subpanel and ground it to the ground rod. I have very little load requirements in the barn: some lights, a few outlets and ability to run a table saw which draws about 15 amps so 40 amps should be more than adequate and it gets pricey to run anything larger.

I was thinking of using a 100 amp subpanel and putting in a 40 amp double pole main breaker. That should give me plenty of room to grow. Does all of this make sense?  Do you have any other recommendations?


texts: Shower base installation: screws through the flange, or not?

texts: I'm about to install this acrylic/fiberglass shower base. It's going on top of a wooden subfloor, with 2x4 walls behind it, then tile on the walls. The  instructions that came with the base say to lay down a bed of mortar and set the base on top of it, with the flange right against the studs; they don't say anything about screwing the flange to the studs, but I've seen it done. Would the screws be overkill?


texts:
I need a boiler to produce hot water for my bathroom. I wonder why boilers usually don't let you customize how much water they should contain. I only need to warm up 80 litres if there are guests in my house. Otherwise, 50 litres is more than enough. I think (maybe I'm wrong) this could greatly reduce energy bills, and I also think this should be quite easy to implement. So, what am I missing? Is there a specific technical reason why this is not implemented?
Sorry if the question is dumb. :)


texts:
Our recently purchased home has de-icing cable and we rely on it to prevent ice dams and water intrusion (had a couple of wet spots last winter).  It was not a professional installation.  I called to have them repaired by a professional, but they insist on a complete removal, discard and replace which we cannot afford.  I'm going to check continuity and relocate some cable to help water flow.

The way the current cable is positioned within the gutter does not seem ideal.  It is in some places higher than the rim of the gutter and in other places lays on the bottom of the gutter.  I don't see any specific instructions online, but photos of proper installations look like they try to keep the cable off of the bottom of the gutter.  I'm guessing to avoid debris buildup in the summer.

I'm also not clear on whether or not to weave the gutter cable through the zigs of the roof cable or whether they should be attached by metal clip.  They are currently attached by metal clip, but most have failed.  I've seen both methods recommended.

In summary:  Should I run gutter ice melt cable in the bottom of the gutter or suspended above?  Should I weave the gutter cable thru the bends of the roof cable or attach with provided clips?


texts: Do modern, well designed circuit breakers and/or panels have a 25-40 year lifespan?

texts:
If I type "electrical panel lifespan" into Google, I get a lot of results from electrical service providers that panels and circuit breakers both wear our after several decades, and require replacement.  Some suggest as short as 25 years!
I'm more than a little skeptical of this.  I don't know of anything in the NEC that requires replacement of a panel or breakers.  Also, given the source, I suspect a large conflict of interest is at work here, and these electricians are attempt to install fear into people to sell them a product they don't need.
Is there any serious merit to this? I've no doubt that a breaker that trips all the time might need to be replaced, but in all the houses I've lived, breaker trips are rare.


texts: The lights seem to dim when we plug anything into the bottom part of the outlet in the kitchen. Wondering why this could be happening?

texts: When we plug anything into the bottom plug in on 1 particular outlet in our kitchen the lights seem to dim but this didn't happen when you plug anything into the top or any of the other outlets. Why is this happening?


texts:
I built a shed door last summer and have had a few problems with it since.

Using pressure treated outdoor timber I made a fairly simple shed door. I wood glued the long planks together and then used four straight braces across the back that I glued and screwed into the long front planks. I then painted the door with standard shed type paint (Ronseal)

All seemed fine at first until winter hit where the front planks in the middle started to come away from the braces, but also to push out at the top so it was deformed and the door would no longer close properly. It made quite a gap between the second and third long planks when it was perfectly flat together before. I would say it moves anywhere from 1/2 an inch to 2 inches (1 to 5 cm)!

This year it started to go back to normal and the gap disappeared, but as it's got cold again recently it's re-appeared again.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problem? Or should I start again with a new door?
What can I do in the future to avoid this issue?


texts: Why are sink-mounted garbage disposal units usually banned in Europe but allowed in the US?

texts: Garbage disposal units are extremely common in the US but virtually unknown in Europe, mostly because of local regulations which ban them. What is the rationale behind this? Is there really a risk of damaging the local sewage if you install one despite the ban?


texts: Does the law require sheetrock on interior walls in a house?

texts: I'm working as a contractor for a guy. He wants to cut corners on houses he is going to rent. He has a house that had a severe roof leak. There is extreme damage to several rooms. He dosen't want to pay the money to demo and rebuild with rock tape mud texture etc. He wants me to tear out then put up paneling. Is that legal? If not or even if yes can you direct me somewhere I can look up the codes?


texts: central A/C Turns back on 30 seconds after shutting off

texts:
First of all, the a/c system is probably 30 yrs old. The outside unit stays running when the inside unit shuts off. After about 30 seconds, the inside unit turns back on again, and will sometimes only run for a few minutes before taking another 30 second break, all while the outside unit continues to run. The inside unit only stays off for an extended period of time once the outside unit is off as well.

I installed a programmable Honeywell thermostat about 1 year ago, and I am wondering if it is going bad. Is there any other explanation for this constant quick cycling?

It seems like it just started doing this last week when we got installation blown in the attic. Maybe just coincidence?


texts: How can I reduce the vibration noise in new corrugated tubing connected to my sump pump?

texts:
My sump pump recently went bad and while replacing it, I also decided to replace the plastic corrugated tubing that was connected to it.

When I turned on the new pump, the amount of noise it was making sounded like there was an elephant in the basement.  Best I could tell, that noise came from the corrugated tubing getting into some resonating vibration.  After wiggling things here and there, I removed the new tubing and put the old one back in and now the pump is as quiet as a mouse.

As far as I know, this is a standard corrugated tubing for use with sump pumps that I bought from the local hardware store. But it appears to be made of a slightly harder plastic than the old tubing and I think that is partially why vibration noise is so much higher.

Is there anything that can be done to eliminate the noise besides having to use really old tubing which I would like to replace at some point?


texts: 240v plug, converter or transformer for EU kitchen appliance in the US

texts:
My Kenwood Major Cooking Chef (KM096) being my prized kitchen appliance, is the only one EU machine I've taken with me to the US. It would have been much more expensive to replace and letting it sit in storage.
Now comes the question of powering it and I fail to determine the best one. Which one would you chose between the following?

Use the existing 240v outlet in my kitchen with an adapter. That would require calling an electrician to do the work.
Use a transformer. Based on the fact that the KM096 can draw up to 1500W, I'm thinking 3000W to be safe

I believe it's set to operate on 50Hz vs the US 60. What would that entail?


texts: In basement, nailed into ceiling joists. Could be old tile / ceiling material?


texts: What size rubber grommet will a 3/4" PVC pipe fit (water tight) through?

texts:
What size rubber grommet do I need for a water-tight seal on a 3/4" PVC pipe?

For example, would this rubber grommet fit a 3/4" PVC Pipe?


texts: Nominal size (shrinkage) for 3 x 12 porcelain tile bullnose trim?

texts:
What is the range of acceptable shrinkage for porcelain tile trim?

The trim is advertised at the supplier site as 3" x 12"; the actual trim is 2 5/8" x 11 3/4".

I did some online research before posting. The first answers I found suggested that shrinkage should be "small," and that porcelain shrinks less than ceramic. But then searching for porcelain shrinkage information resulted in plenty of hits for ceramic shrinkage. Arrrgggh.

Note: This post is related to this one:

Bullnose tile trim installation problem: feasible fix, feasible concession, or neither?


texts: How to make a height adjustable shelf / desk

texts:
My application needs to have a rail like sliding system but also needs few other properties

Vertical Slider
Range Lock
Range Lock should be adjustable

I've sketched the requirements for better understanding.

Locked state 1

Slider should not go below minimum lock position

Locked state 2

Slider should not go above maximum lock position

Maximum and minimum lock positions should be adjustable

Range 1

Range 2

Specifics about use case

The force will be from the top and not more than 25 kgs
The slide up and down motion will be used 20 times a day
The slide range adjustment will be used 5 times a day
Maximum height lock need not support weight from above, although additional support is a plus
Minimum height in normal state is 28 inches
Maximum height in lifted state should be upto 46 inches i.e 18 inches taller

I'm not familiar with different types of slides or hardware for the job.

What are the types of hardware required to accomplish the task efficiently.


texts: My electric oven runs 200C too hot. What can I do?

texts:
I have a fairly new (2011-ish) electric oven by Amica which has been running about 200 °C too hot. I can't find a thing in the manuals about re-calibration, though I have read in the past that it's possible to calibrate it without having to call in the troops for repair.

What should I be looking for? Or, is this something that simply should be handled by the pros?


texts: Changing basement tub drain to shower drain - double 90 degree while horizonal, is this bad?

texts:
We are finishing our basement and had a plumber come out to move the toilet drain and install a drain for a tub/shower combo to fit the floor plan we decided on.  He installed the tub, but we changed our minds and are putting in a shower instead.  The shower base I am using is slightly wider than the tub was (36" vs 30"), and the drain is further to the right and further from the wall from where the tub drain is, so I need to move it.

I raised the valve and capped off the bottom that went to the tub spout so that it will work for the shower.  That part went fine, but the drain I am unsure of.

After digging up the tub drain I see he used what may have been a potential tub/shower drain for the original floorplan that was just left buried (there is no stub out from the floor, only for the toilet) and there are two 90 degree elbows, a 45, then a P-trap, then vertically a couple of 45 elbows.

I thought about putting a horizontal section above the two vertical 45 degree elbows to reposition the drain, but I'm worried about increasing the possibility of clogs.  A second thought was that since the short section between the P-trap and the horizontal elbows is 7/8" I could cut that off and put a new ptrap, and use 45 degree elbows to reposition the drain since there should be enough vertical room.

First, Are either of those 2 solutions going to cause problems?  Would keeping those horizontal elbows (two 90 degree and one 45 degree) make it easier to get clogs?


texts: A screw driver tip that won't hurt painted screws?

texts: Is there such thing as a soft tip screw driver that won't hurt painted screw tips?


texts: Our fireplace turns on fine, runs for a while and then all of a sudden goes out, then sometimes comes back on. We usually turn it off when it happens. We have had a fireplace company out they replaced the thermocouple and it still continues. We have also had the fireplace cleaned, venting was resealed and it still continues. Our local fireplace company is stumped and we are too! We really enjoy using this and now I have turned it off as we don't know what's going on and don't feel safe using it till we know and fix it.


texts:
I recently lost power to my fridge, I couldn't figure it out for the life of me until I removed all of the receptacles and found the incoming power directly from the breaker, from ground to hot it was 120volts and from hot to neutral it was 14 volts, I was dumbfounded until I wiggled the white wire in the breaker box and sparks flew, there was a hairline Crack that became brittle in the neutral wire

I cut the coating down on the Romex wire and retightened and got 120 volts again

My problem: I was getting reaclimated to the furnaces components and wiring setup the other day when I found that the two 60A breakers in the furnace, one was reading 120volts and the other was at 113 volts

My question: Is my house so old that the wiring is just deteriorating after 36 years or should I just update the breakers and strip down all the wires so it gets a good connection again


texts: How to support the subfloor around a toilet between I joists

texts:
I'm replacing some rotted subfloor around a toilet, and I want to add blocking around the flange for extra support, and to give me a place to support the new pieces of subfloor (I'm not planning on replacing the flange).  What complicates things is a pipe running parallel to the joists just an inch or so beneath the subfloor.

Picture:

My thought was to first fill out the joist webbing (yellow) and then build a box (white) to surround the plumbing (red).  The horizontal beams perpendicular to the joists could only be as thick as the joist flange due to the upper pipe.

Would this approach provide decent support for the replacement floor and the toilet?  If so, what kind of materials would be ideal to use?


texts: In one of my rooms a ceiling fan stopped working.  We replaced it with a brand new one but still no luck.  It is getting power in the attic and when we tested the wall switch it has power when switched off at the wall but when we turn the switch on it has no power registered.  The bedroom right next to it is now also having the same issue.  Any suggestions?


texts: help needed to fit a new chandlier to a loop system

texts: I need help as I dont know how to connect these 3 blue and 3 brown to this chandelier.  I have tried to look for the answer online but couldn't find anything.


texts: How to remove wood filler to get to the screws

texts: I have a wobbly table leg and so I want to get to the screws that are meant to be hold the leg in place. How do I get to the screw heads that are covered in wood filler (or maybe wood glue).


texts: Why do two security lights stay on after a new one was installed?

texts:
I replaced an old security light and sensor with a new one. When I removed the old sensor it had 5 terminals (N L E Sl N). The new sensor only has L N E.
There are 2 sets of cables coming out of the wall so in effect I have 6 wires (plus the 3 from the light), so I wired them as follows

3 reds into L
3 blacks into N  y
3 earth's into E

Now the new light works fine and goes off as it should but the other security lights stay on unless I flip the switch in the hall to turn them all off.
Incidentally the new sensor controls them as well.
I have tried looking for an answer and seeng baffled something like a black wire needs to be put in with the live wires that's when I stop!  Doesn't seem "right" so to speak. I can only assume the old sensor which had Sl stood for second live and has something to do with that?


texts:
I'd like to add a door into the entrance of a passageway which leads into the bedrooms.
The entrance dimensions are 87 1/4 X 39 3/4 and is drywall.
it seems the standard door widths are 36 X 80, so it seems I will need to add a frame.
I've looked at some doors and the "assembled" height/width seems to be 1.75 inches over the doors widths - what does this mean?
What would be the best method of building a frame to support a door on this size, especially the top as I have just over 6 inches I'll need to build up.
What would the internal dimensions need to be to support a door 36 X 80?


texts: I have a septic tank. When it's windy it won't flush. The bowl fills up and will slowly go down, but no complete flush.


texts: Add tile to kitchen floor, eveness problem

texts:
My current kitchen floor has a plywood subfloor with glued on vinyl tiles.

It would be better to have a mortar bed with ceramic tiles, but if I do this, it will add about an inch and a half to the floor height, which will cause the kitchen floor to be higher than the floors of the connecting rooms.

Is there any way around this problem?


texts: When installing two layers of subfloor, is it okay to secure both layers to joists?

texts:
I am in the middle of replacing my subfloor.  The old subfloor was two layers, each about 1/2 inch thick, totaling 1 inch.
1-1/8 inch OSB is pretty much out of stock everywhere at the moment so I'm thinking of putting two layers back in.  19/32 + 7/16 = .578 actual + .4375 actual = 1.0155 actual.
I will be installing LVP or laminate as the floor.  Is it okay to secure both layers of subfloor to the joists if there wont be tile going on top?
If that is not okay, how would you go about securing the second layer of subfloor to the first?
Thanks!


texts: Does the wall termination vent for a kitchen range hood need fastened to the duct tightly?

texts:
6" duct running out through exterior wall.  For my dryer wall vent, I used a pipe clamp to tightly secure the round duct around the outside of the male fitting on the wall vent.  I have access to this space if I ever need to replace the wall vent.  Once this kitchen is done, I will not have access to the space for the range hood vent.  Looking to the future, in case I ever need to replace the wall vent, do I simply friction fit the male fitting of the wall vent into the range hood duct so that I can easily slide a new one in?
I can't see any way people could replace these in an exterior wall if they secured the duct to the vent with a clamp or tape.


texts: How to mount a 12V transformer for indoor lighting

texts:
I'm installing 12V lighting in my basement in the exposed joists.  I bought this LET-75 transformer to run them, but I'm not sure how to mount it.  There are no mounting holes of any kind, for one thing.  Also, unlike a doorbell transformer, there is no obvious way to mount it so the 120V wires are inside a panel/box and the 12V wire are outside the box.
What's the solution here?  Putting the whole thing in a junction box seems like a heat issue.  I guess I could zip tie it to something and run the 120V wires into a fitting on a box, but they will be non-shielded going between.


texts: How can I safely splice wires inside a lamp?

texts: I am making a Steampunk style lamp with black pipe.  My intention is to use three lamp sockets as part of the design.  I will have one cord coming out of the lamp as the plugin.  However, I am not sure the safest way to splice the wires inside the black pipe.  Tons of examples online of these Steampunk style lamps, but no information on safe wiring.


texts: I am pulling up my old subfloor (my house was built in 1928) in the attic which consists of tongue and groove wooden planks. Any ideas for repurposing them as a wood working project?


texts: Hot tub heater turns off when both vents are open

texts:
My hot tub will turn on if one of the vents to the heater is shut.

As soon as I open both the hot tub turns off. Any suggestions? Thanks


texts: Ceiling fan wiring with dual switches but only one red hot wire at ceiling box

texts:
I want to replace an existing "lights-only" fixture with a "ceiling fan with lights". This is a new home and I was told by the builder that the box is ceiling fan rated and is pre-wired for dual switches. I made a diagram of the present wiring. Most "dual-switch" connections call for 4 wires from the ceiling box (black hot, red hot, white neutral, and copper ground) to be connected to (fan black, fan blue, fan white, fan ground). But, I only have one "red hot" at the ceiling box. I would appreciate any advise on how to connect the ceiling fan with lights.
Thank you