texts: How can I hide wood stain on painted drywall?

texts:
This weekend when making a built in cabinet, I accidentally got some wood stain on my painted drywall. (Yes, I know I should've taped...). Now, I have to touch up the wall. However from what I have read online, there isn't a sure fire way to make it work. I was wondering if anyone here knew how.
Here is the situation:

Wall is painted with a latex based paint.
Stain is Varathane Classic penetrating wood stain

My goal is to be able to touch up the wall, and not damage the wood. They are butted right up to each other (roughly 1/16" space).Is there a better primer that works for this kind of thing? Or would sanding it be the better option? I have not tried anything as of yet, as this was last night...and I will resume working on the project today after work. So we have a clean slate to work with.


texts: Electrical wiring issue with Ring Camera

texts:
I am replacing an old floodlight with a new Ring spotlight camera that is on the same breaker as a pre-existing Ring spotlight. I’m adding a second Ring for additional coverage around our property. The first Ring I installed tied into a black, white, and ground wire. It’s been working fine for the past several months. After removing the old floodlight, the wiring coming from the house is black, red, white, and ground. While installing the new Ring I tied into the black, white, and ground—and just put a wire nut on the end of the loose red wire (as shown in image). After flipping the breaker, the new Ring is getting power, but the old one is not.
Do I need to tie the red wire in so that I continue getting power to the pre-existing Ring? Why is there a red wire on this anyways?


texts: How do fix this pop up drain stopper in the sink


texts: How can I trace my irrigation system without any sprinkler heads?

texts: I just bought a home in Arizona that came with an irrigation system in the backyard. There are no sprinkler heads so I have no clue where the lines are. How can I get info on where to plant based on the system?


texts:
I have a study lamp. It works sometimes, and sometimes it does not. I am using 220V power. On the lamp is written G23 PL-11W 230V/50W. What do you think what is the problem?

Link for lamp picture http://www.electromarket220.net.ua/components/com_jshopping/files/img_products/full_3f106e1101c6751d238a8d94d792cf47.JPG


texts:
Neighbor had his father in law installed a new porch, now the outside garage lights changed. He has no power in garage unless he turns porch light on.
The box for the porch light has 2 Black, 2 White and 1 Red wire in it.  I checked the wires, no power to blacks or the red unless switch inside is turned on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
What could be the problem?


texts: Water leaking around window when it is NOT raining!

texts:
I need help!

In February, we noticed that there were some brown water drips on the window frame above our kitchen sink, not in a crevice or corner, just hanging from the middle of the wood frame!

Shortly after, we noticed brown staining / water on the small drywall section above the sink and around the canister light. Outside, we had large brownish icicles hanging from the window.

I called a bunch of people but had trouble getting help, until one nice roofer suggested turn off our whole house humidifier, that seemed to help.  We didn’t have any water again until today,  it didn’t rain today but it has been damp.

The window is on the first floor of our house and our bathroom shower is directly above.

It is hard to get anyone out at the moment due to the World Wide Pandemic, Covid 19.

Any ideas????

Thank you!!

The outside pics are from February, hence the icicles. There is no condensation on any of the windows in the house. Also, FYI, our house was built in 1919.

For the picture of inside the house: The water also drips, like one drop hanging in suspension, from the frame.  I wiped it up so it isn’t clear in the picture.

Original Photo links

https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORFyk.jpg

https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8VdX.jpg

Update: This is a picture of the upstairs bath where the window directly above is located.


texts:
I am about to build a custom raised bed frame. I have found the simple construction shown in the picture below, which seems suitable for my use and abilities.

From what I can look up, the joints between the posts and beams would be called a kind of rabbet joint. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Is this type of joint strong enough for supporting a bed?


texts: Can I upgrade my service and install a new panel?

texts:
I asked this question in a convoluted way and didn't get any answers, so I thought I'd ask again and make my question clearer with more images.

I have a 150 amp disconnect at the meter. The box only has the 150 amp disconnect with no additional room (see picture). The 150 amp sub panel inside the house is full.

I'd like to upgrade that box with 200 amp service and some room for additional breakers.

Can I install a 200 amp box like the image below, then add a 150 amp breaker (also pictured) for the 150 sub panel in the house, leaving me with additional space for more breakers?

@Tester101: to answer some of your questions and address your points: 1) The overhead conductors that run from the pole to the meter are adequately sized for 200 amp service 2) The meter and the disconnect are in the same box (as shown), so the issue of adequately sized conductors between the meter and disconnect is minor 3) The grounding/bonding conductors may have to be upgraded, but I'll consult an electrician for that (and all of the issues you've mentioned...I had not planned on proceeding without having a pro review my plans). I really just wanted to make sure I was on the right track re: replacing the meter/disconnect box with a larger disconnect (200 amps), then have a 150 amp breaker for the main subpanel already located in the house. I would then have additional room in the new meter/disconnect box to add circuits as needed


texts: Is this wiring correct for outlet and junction box?

texts:
I was checking some electrical work done because the previous owners of our house had done some shady and incorrect electrical work. I wanted to check to see if both of these situation were OK.

Is this setup correct to have both terminals used and the quick wire too?

This box is being used as a junction box, which are the yellow wire nuts. Is this acceptable.


texts: How can I best connect this metal gas flue pipe to the old asbestos cement chimney pipe?

texts:
The asbestos cement pipe here can't be changed, but how can I make a robust fix for this junction to the a heater flue pipe?

The gas utility is suggesting flue tape, but that's crazy.  Tape won't last and when it is eventually torn off, bits of asbestos will just be released into the air.

The fit problem here is the old and newer pipes have different diameters.


texts: Washing vinyl siding -- hard to reach high up places?

texts: There's some spots on my vinyl siding that have gotten dirty. Unfortunately these spots are pretty high up-- about 15-20ft up. What are the best way to clean these spots? Would a power washer aimed up at the siding be a good idea?


texts: Moving dirt in crawlspace in house with daylight basement?

texts:
Our house has a walk out basement (daylight basement). In the basement, there is one corner of the house, approximately 312 sqft that has an access door. Inside of that, there is a level portion of dirt, and then the dirt is sloped up to match the front of the house.

I want to finish this area off to be usable space - actually we already have by building a 'deck' above the level portion, and then a wall and another raised area at the top height of the slope. The lower level portion provides us with 8ft head clearance, but the sloped portion only 4'. Ideally I want the whole area to be at 8ft head clearance.

To that end, I want to remove the dirt including the slope, level it out, and then pour a concrete slab in the whole area. Our builder said that moving the dirt is bad because it can cause the house to slip.

Is it safe to move this dirt? If not, can we reinforce the wall at the top end of the slope in a cost conscious way (pour some footers and brace the wall with beams that are cemented in the footer?)


texts: Minimum Concrete Thickness Over PVC After Rough-In

texts:
I just has some plumbing roughed in for my basement. The plumber did an okay job but for some reason routed the drain pipe for the sink under the area where my shower will go. This would't normally be a problem but he left the pipe a little high (perhaps he needed to in order to get the required slope) where he connected it from the wall to where it would run through the trench I chipped thought the concrete slab.

Since I have a really low basement (6'7" floor to joist) inches matter for the shower. I was wondering what is the minimum thickness for the concrete to cover the PVC. It should be stated the base I have has little pieces of plywood at the four corners and one of these corners would be sitting directly on the pipe (assuming I can't remove them).

Any help would be great as I don't want the floor to crack or to damage the pipe but I also need to save as much space as possible.


texts: Are rubber couplings allowed for drain stack in Ontario?

texts:
I need to modify my drain stack somewhat. I want turn a T in the stack to the back wall to make space in the wall.
To do this, I need to cut the drain stack and, obviously, reconnect it after I turn the T. But since there is’t enough movement to put in a solid connector, I was looking into using the rubber Fernco connector. I’m having troubles determining if this meets code.
Here is a picture. I’ll be cutting the stack above and below the T to rotate it to the back. The intention is to use the Fernco rubber connectors to reattach the pipes. Eventually this will be behind a wall.
Ok, so my question is, in Ontario Canada, do you know if it meets code to put in the Fernco rubber connectors in a vertical drain stack.


texts: Covering peeling lead paint with joint compound?

texts:
I have some paint on a small wall in the basement staircase that I suspect is lead paint. The house is from 1916, and this is the only layer of paint on a plaster wall. Total area is only ~10-15 sq ft. I don’t really want scrape it, as my wife is pregnant and I have a 2 yr old.

Only a few small sections are peeling. I am thinking about covering the small peeling sections with joint compound, and then using an encapsulating primer to cover all of the paint. Then top coating with some latex paint.

Will that work? Or am setting myself up for some deterioration in a few years?

For what it’s worth, the 10 yr plan involves remodeling this section of the house, so at that time I can just have this section of wall removed.


texts: How can I determine why my furnace is not blowing enough heat?

texts:
During a cold spell last week when temperatures got down to -23f (-31C) my furnace started showing issues with blowing enough air and the air was not very warm. Last winter it did not have any issues at those temperatures. I've done a lot of DIY diagnosing the last few days, here are my observations:

There is not an air intake problem, air is getting to the blower and burners just fine. Filters are newly cleaned (electric).
Exhaust vent pipe near furnace is very hot, too hot to touch.
Out going ducts are moderately warm just after the furnace, definitely not hot and does not seems close to as hot as they should be in my inexperience estimation.
The blower seems to be working properly, it sucks air from the intake side strongly.
Burners are running fine.
Thermostat works, furnace will turn on and off appropriately as I change the temp on it.
I pulled the vent covers off most of the vents and that has improved things considerably.
Air coming out of the vents is not very warm but good enough to heat the house with the covers off (does not heat the house enough with them on).
The furnace is a York 8.T 80,000/64,000 BTU model from 2005, model number PT8A12N080UH11B.

The house is 30 years old and we have been here a year. Right now I'm thinking there is some kind of blockage inside the furnace which is causing air to go out the exhaust instead if the ducts. Or the inside of the furnace is getting hot but not enough duct air is moving through so the heat is going up the exhaust.

Is this something I should try to fix myself or should I hire a pro? I have a significant amount of experience with DIY over the last 17 years. Cars and electrical mostly however.


texts: How can I tell if a slab foundation can be built on?

texts:
I am purchasing a small one-story home built in 1955. I want to turn the garage into living space. The home sits on a crawlspace, but the garage is on a slab that was added to the side and abuts the original home. The garage is attached and looks like it was originally built for the house -- but it wasn't. It was added on later.

I want to convert the garage space into living space but am concerned that because the garage slab foundation was poured only for the purpose of a garage that it's not suitable for being remodeled to living space.

How can I tell whether the foundation of the garage is suitable to build on?


texts: My husband painted our daughters bedroom with one large strip horizontal stripe  around the room.  To make the lines even on our textured wall he used caulk.  How do I get rid of the caulk lines so I can paint the room one color?


texts: What is thumping noise I hear in my forced air heat pump?

texts:
In the morning when our heat pump is turning on to start heating the house for the morning, I hear repeated thumping that kind of sounds like sheet metal rumbling. This continues periodically for a while and then seems to go away later in the day.

Is this due to the emergency heat kicking in to supplement the heat from the heat pump?  Is this the heating ducts rumbling?  Should I be concerned about this noise (other than the fact that it wakes me up)?

Are there more details I can provide to help clarify the issue?


texts: Can I lay new foundations under 'Permitted Development' of a barn?

texts: If a barn has 'Permitted Development' (UK), I understand that structural modifications can take place (new walls, windows etc.), but can, if needed, new foundations be made?


texts: Master bath faucet leaks when using other showers or when running dishwasher

texts: I have a master bathroom pretty much next to a second bathroom upstairs. Lately I noticed that when the 2nd bathroom shower is being used the master bathtub faucet leaks. I guess the same thing is happening when the dishwasher is running as well. What could be causing this or what can I do to stop it from happening?


texts: Is a liner required when bedding a tub over plywood?

texts: Is a liner material like roofing paper required when bedding a tub in mortar over plywood? I am concerned the plywood will suck all the moisture out of the mortar too fast and lead to cracking?


texts: Can both line and load go to same screw on a GFCI outlet?

texts:
I was going to replace my GFCI since it is not working. The GFCI has 2 black wires going into the same screw -- one with the push in connection and the another wired to the screw. Same for the white. My guess is that one black wire is for load and another for line. I will anyways test it before replacing.

Can i wire the new gfci same way as the old one? That is can both line and load go to the same screw if one goes through push in and another by rolling around the screw?


texts: The lead paint on an outdoor wrought iron trellis is badly flaking and chipping, so I don't want to scrape it off dry or use a wire brush, but hope to find a paint remover that chemically neutralizes the lead. There are paints that are said to have this chemical property. Are there paint removers that have it too?


texts: Is there any reason to seal/waterproof underground spliced sprinkler cable?

texts:
Since there isn't an electrical current going through sprinkler wire, it's just a single pulse that gets sent from the controller to the individual valve, is there any reason to waterproof crimp underground sprinkler cable after it's been cut in repair.

If the answer is No, Then why?

If the answer is Yes, Do you have any suggestions how best to seal and/or waterproof the spliced cable.

Thanks!


texts: why is 4500 watts so common in water heaters?

texts:
It seems that the default for electric storage-type water heaters is two 4500watt heating elements, wired for non-simultaneous operation.
I'm curious why that is.  Water heaters are typically on 30amp breakers, and 30amps * 240volts * 80% = 5760 watts (80% being the de-rating factor for a circuit's ampacity for "continuous" loads).
Put another way: is there some reason I shouldn't be able to replace the 4500 watt elements in my water heater with 5500 watt ones ?   Bradford-White, for one, allows one to order water heaters with elements in 500 watt steps from 1500 through 6000 watts (so presumably they can supply heater elements in these wattages).


texts:
I have a gas fireplace, which I have not used in over 3 years. It starts with an on/off switch on the wall.  When I turn it ON, nothing happens. I am kind of scared of trying anything with this as it works with gas and I don't totally understand how it works.

Any tips on checking some basic stuff to see if I can get it started before I call a professional?


texts: Is installing crown molding a DIY project?

texts: My wife has lately been thinking about ways to improve our home, and has settled upon installing crown molding in our 3 bedrooms and 2.5 bathrooms as one of the things she would like to do.  My question is this: for two people who have little DIY experience, is installing crown molding something we can do ourselves, or should we call a professional?


texts: How to determine if a drain running into concrete slab has a trap?

texts:
Had a home inspection recently that indicated this drain may not be trapped.  It's a wet bar in my basement that we've never used since we bought the place.  The sink works fine, just never used it.

The main drain for the house runs somewhere near there.  The laundry room is in the next room and that is where the main drain for the house is located (public sewer).  The main drain is about 10ft from this sink.

Is there any simple tests I can do to determine of there is a trap in the concrete or if it's protected by another trap?


texts: What is too high of a pressure for irrigation systems

texts: I purchased a home four years ago where the owner installed an irrigation system. I noticed the valves were leaking then and replaced four of eight.  I figured they were old, and wear and tear took it's toll.  Now four years later I replaced the same four again for leaking and found out the owner never put in a pressure regulator. The readings at the street is 90psi, do I need an irrigation pressure regulator? The old valves were 3/4in RainBirds.  They were replaced with 3/4in Orbits.


texts: Replacing Exhaust Fan in Bathroom and connecting to semi rigid aluminum duct

texts:
I am replacing my exhaust fan in the bathroom and having a hard time connecting the new fan to the aluminum semi rigid duct, because is hard to compress, extend or curve.  How can I make this easier ?

thank you


texts:
I am attempting to replace a cracked shower base.

the shower stall sits on top of the base , before I start , I just want to clarify a few things to ensure I am doing it correctly.

what connects the shower stall to the base and also the wall? is it just the sealant, or is there going to be some other attachment?

ITs just a question of how to I remove the shower glass surround so that I can get access to the base.

I dont see any obvious way that the stall attached to the wall, but clearly there is otherwise it would be loose.

So I am just a little unsure of how to go about removing the stall so I can replace the base.

Any help would be appreciated.


texts: what to do with tall, square fireplace opening?

texts:
I'd like to have 4-5 fires a winter, and the rest of the time have it closed off so the kids can't get hurt or dirty from it.  The opening is really tall, almost square (35.25" w x 33.25" h), and the bottom of the opening is 4" off the floor.  I can't find any stock fireplace doors that fit (all require an opening < 32.5" tall), and custom doors are more than I want to spend.  All reasonably priced firescreens (aka spark guards) are too short, plus they don't solve the problem with kids.  What should I do?

I ordered fireplace doors that almost fit, but then realized the frame is meant to be supported by the floor, which makes the doors about 5" too short.  As pictured there is 3/4" between bottom of frame and bottom of fireplace.
I thought of supporting the frame at the bottom with steel bar stock, but then I need an attractive way to cover that up.  Also, the damper knob (by masking tape) doesn't extend past the frame (since some tiles stick out 1/2" farther than others), so can't turn damper knob.

The only solution I have is to cut out the stone tile all the way around the opening, so doors are recessed into the tile.  Then have 3/4" brick with tile facade added to bottom of fireplace opening.  That way the damper control knob will turn, and the frame is supported at bottom by tile, with no gap for sparks to fly through.  Could remove the tiles, cut new ones and install; or maybe cut the tile in place.  Any tile experts know what this would cost and how clean the results would be?

Open to other ideas.

The frame is only about 1" thick and rests against outside of fireplace. Screen doors extend about 2/3" into fireplace, so total thickness of the item is about 1 2/3".  Brand is Pleasant Hearth, model is Alpine.


texts: Hard piped connection to water heater with anode rod on outlet

texts:
I have a water heater installed 4 years ago that I want to change the anode rod on.  This water heater has the anode rod combined with the outlet nipple.  I went to change it but it is hard piped to the water supply, preventing me from easily removing the anode rod.  Picture below if it does any good.

What is my best route forward?  I would like to plan on changing the anode rod every few years so this isn't a one time thing.  I guess I could get a CPVC to brass MIP adapter:

and then a flex line.  I hear that flex lines are prone to random leaks and sometimes not allowed to code.

Are there any other routes other than cutting the CPVC every few years and redoing the connection?


texts: What is a shear wall and what is it for?

texts:
I have a wall in the middle of my house which I have been told is a shear wall.  The image below is a diagram I put together real quick to show what it looks like.  The grey lines on the right are perpendicular exterior walls.  The orange-ish section on the right is actually exterior since the foundation jogs a bit there.

It doesn't seem like the 1x6 that crosses in the middle does much.  I intend to put French Doors in this wall but need to know what I'm getting myself into.

The wall runs parallel to all the joists and trusses in the house and sits directly under one truss.  The far left side of the wall actually has a vent running up through it directly through the truss above.  When they built the house, they cut a 12" gap in the truss, which makes me not so sure if the wall is load bearing or not.

Oh, and I live in Seattle.


texts: Inserting pvc pipe into wall for kitchen drain

texts:
I ripped out the pvc pipe from my kitchen drain and now would like to add a new one.
The kitchen drain is some sort of metal (cast iron I assume).
Do I just prime and put cement on the pvc pipe and the cast iron drain or is there some additional steps I need to follow to create a water tight seal and follow code to attach a piece of pvc pipe to a metal drain pipe?


texts: Can I connect Ground from UPS outlet to another outlet which has no Ground?

texts:
Simplified situation: I live in a rented room. My room has two two outlets, namely Outlet A and Outlet B.
Outlet A has connections only from main supply. It has no connection to UPS. And, it has two wires in them, one for Live and another for Neutral. Ground port is vacant with no connections in it.
Outlet B has connection from UPS(sine-wave). This outlet comes with Live, Neutral and Ground wire (confirmed with Multimeter). I am not supposed to use this outlet.

I get tingling sensation while using my laptop when laptop is being charged. Also, if I use earphone with blanket on me, I get static shocks inside my ear. So, I want Ground connection for my electrical appliances and I can't use outlet B. Load on outlet A is of roughly 215Watts.
Thus, can I just plug a wire in Ground port of Outlet B and connect that wire to Ground Port of outlet A?( I assume, all connections to ground are basically via the same wire.) Will this be safe?
Location: Asia, India
Readings of Outlet B:
Live and Neutral: 218V
Neutral and Ground: 60V
Live and Ground: 170V


texts:
I have a deck about 16x16' and about 4' high. It has 3 8x8" posts cemented into the ground. I am guessing they have been there since the house was built in 1990.

The posts are cemented in and currently have 1-2" of soil around them. The cement is no longer visible. I can scrape off some of the outer post pretty easily likely due to rot and moisture.

What can I do to protect them from rotting further?


texts: Can anyone tell me what insect this old egg pod would belong to? Found it in cavity of exterior wall, want to see if I should investigate further


texts: Leveling off part of concrete slab for floating floor

texts:
We are trying to partly level out our slab to build a subfloor. Most of it is level enough but a section that is about 20ft x 5ft starts to slope and fairly aggressively in some parts. I see self leveling concrete says it's only for up to 1-1/2". For anything beyond that depth should I fill with gravel? Use pressure treated wood? Regular cement?
Thank you kindly


texts: Why would it matter whether a front-loading washer is upstairs?

texts:
We have an old front-loading Maytag Neptune washing machine.  The bearings are going bad.  I'm looking into having someone swap the bearings out for me, but also considering getting a new machine.

I found that Puget Sound Energy has a program where they will give customers a free washing machine under some circumstances!  But here's the weird part: they will give a free front-loader only if it will be installed at ground level or in a basement; for upstairs they will only give a top-loader.  The relevant quote:

  You'll receive a free ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washer that fits in the same spot as your old one. If your new washer will be installed on the first-floor or basement level, you can choose a front-load model. Or you can choose a top-load washer for any level of your home.

http://www.pse.com/SAVINGSANDENERGYCENTER/FORHOMES/Pages/Free-Appliance-Replacement.aspx

Why would PSE have a policy like this?

P.S. Our washer/dryer closet is upstairs, by the bedrooms.  We love the front-loader so I'd rather not accept a top-loader even if it's free.  But I am really wondering if there is something I ought to worry about if I'm picking a new machine.

EDIT: I have accepted an answer.  I am certain that vibration is the issue.  I will just be sure to buy a washer with low vibration.  One brand of washer actually has a "Second-Floor Guarantee" and I might buy that brand.

Thanks to all who answered.


texts: What kind of electrical outlet is this, and how do I replace it?

texts:
I have an electrical outlet which hasn't been reliable (the bottom one doesn't always have power unless you jiggle the plug), so I want to change it. I've changed a few plain outlets, but I found something new (to me!) when I went to remove it:

The wires run into the back of the box, as well as attach to the side. What is this called, and how do I remove them?


texts: I want to heighten my existing 4 ft vinyl fence to 6 ft. I figured every thing out except how to splice an additional 2 ft of post on top of the existing ones. An internal vinyl coupler set with vinyl glue and screws would be ideal, however, I can't find such a thing after searching the internet for days.  Any ideas ?


texts: Will two given concrete mixtures with the same quantity of water but different cement have the same strength

texts:
Is concrete strength primarily a function of water content? E.g., let's say:

concrete mixture A contains (per cubic metre)

400kg cement
180kg water
1900kg aggregate

for a slump of 10cm

And let's say that for 10cm slump we can also make concrete mixture B, which is not as strong

250kg cement
300kg water
2000kg aggregate

If we aim to make concrete mixture A, but end up adding 300kg water instead of 180kg, does this result in the same strength as concrete mixture B, which has much less cement, but was properly mixed?

I.e. is concrete strength primarily a function of the actual quantity of water added, or does the mixture somehow shed excess water without losing strength, or only losing partial strength?


texts:
I'm finishing up the rough in wiring for a kitchen remodel, but I have a situation where I can't run cables through studs for a light switch because there is no wall cavity. I decided to run it strait up against the wall into the attic space through conduit. Its a short 5' run of conduit and just 90 degree stubs out into the attic then connects with the kitchen lighting circuit.
I ended up just stripping the romex back instead of using THHN because I needed the attic portion of the run to be sleeved (I'm aware of the lack of conductor labeling violation here, its just what I ended up doing in my own kitchen). The conduit does NOT connect back to the panel. Is having a bare ground inside conduit going to be an issue? Is this any different from having a ground connected to a metal box?
Any info would be much appreciated, thanks!


texts: Concrete base for 21' 6x6 wood poles with cross arms

texts: We are installing light poles at our church.  They are wood, 6x6, have 5' cross arms at the top which extend 12" to the back and 4' at the front with the light fixture.  (and of course there is a 45 support under the cross arm).  We intend to bury them in concrete with sonotubes 5.5' - 6' deep.  Our question is how wide should the sonotubes be and should they be flared at the bottom.  We do get some wind here so we want to make triple sure they are properly supported.


texts: Is it safe to add shelving to truss members in my attic?

texts:
I have a (I believe it's called) "W" frame loft:

(sorry about the quality of the pictures - maybe I should ask in the photography Stack Exchange how to take such pictures)

There are no floorboards, just ceiling joists, but I had an idea that I could create some additional storage by lashing some lengths of chipboard between the frames (making an upside-down A on the two arms of the W).

My question is: could this affect either the structural integrity or the airflow in the loft; or, generally, are there any reasons this should not be done?  Further, if there are no reasons to not do it, then are there any considerations to bear in mind (for example, it occurred to me that I shouldn't screw anything in place to allow the beams to expand and contract).

EDIT:

Following a request in the comments for more detail, I have (badly) sketched what I'm trying to achieve.  This illustrates the loft / attic space currently:

And this illustrates what I'm contemplating doing:


texts:
I got an old workbench with a top made by a pair of railway sleepers (I assume this is timber).
It was very old and sticky with paint stains and not very plane at all, so I tried to use a router and a planning jig to make it nicer to use.

I've almost completed the process and it only needs a last router pass to be "almost as new" but it has a few big holes (about 10cm/4 inches long, see picture below) that I would like to try to fill to avoid them being always filled with sawdust or trapping screws and other small things that like disappearing in holes. I'm also concerned that since they are close to the edges the outer part may break away and make an even bigger hole.

I heard about something called "liquid wood", but also of "epoxy glaze" and some peoples seems to use wood glue mixed with sawdust, but I have no idea which of those solutions (or another one) would be the best in this use case.

I don't want to have a "mirror finish" (this is a workbench, and I'm planning to use it) but I'd appreciate if it could still look good.

My questions are:

Which product can I use to fill those holes
Should I fill the holes before the last router pass or should I finish with the router and fill the holes later (then presumably sand whatever I put in the
holes)
Extra question: My router has variable speed (6000 to 26000 RPM); what would be the
recommended speed to use in this case for a better looking finish (I'm using a 1
inch diameter router bit like this one and I'm removing about
3-5 mm at a time)

I should add I'm pretty new with routers or woodwork in general so feel free to add anything that seems obvious to you.


texts: Electrical design for a house with an ADU, solar, and backup generator

texts:
I recently moved into a fixer-upper house, and have some questions about how to go about (re)designing the electrical system in a way that meets my somewhat unique timeline and site requirements.

This is my current situation:

200A service with Puget Sound Energy.
Existing panel is a smaller split-bus panel.
Electric service serves only the main house and some exterior lights/outlets.
The house is 3,000sf with electric heat, stove, water heating, etc. (i.e. the house is an all-electric house).

My remodelling project is spread out over multiple projects, which mainly consist of the following sub-projects, which will likely be completed in the order listed.

Drilling a new private water well, replacing a shallow century-old shared well on an adjacent property.
Construction of an outbuilding which contains a shop and an ADU for guests and, perhaps in the future, renting out.

The shop will have woodworking tools in it.

Re-wiring of the main house concurrent with a whole-house remodel.  Construction of an addition will bring the total square footage to 3500sf.

The home's HVAC will be replaced with mini-splits.
A heat pump water heater will be installed.
Currently the house has nearly zero insulation.  This will also be rectified.

The addition of a backup generator serving hopefully both the house, the ADU, and some common loads such as a well pump.
Electrical service will be upgraded to 320 or 400A.
Lastly, I'm considering adding some solar panels.

These projects will likely be done piecemeal over multiple years, but I'd like to first design the electrical with the final product in mind, and minimize any work that I'll have to re-do later when, for example, my service is upgraded to 400A.

Summary of current equipment

Current meter base.

Current load center. The panel is exactly opposite the meter socket right now on the inside of the house.

The Exterior Subpanel breaker is connected to this indoor-panel-mounted-outdoors-without-a-cover subpanel outside.

The first two 30A double pole breakers are hooked up to the water heater and the oven. The rest are unknown.  I assume one goes to a sump pump; not sure where the other ones lead. I have some random outlets mounted to trees on my property from conduit that comes out of the ground; perhaps it's one of those.
Central Heat Pump.  Sorry for the spiderwebs:

While this is a pretty complex all-electric situation, I'm hoping to squeeze everything into my 200A service for the time being, until later on when it's feasible for me to upgrade to 400A service. I think the first step would be to upgrade my main house's panel and meter base so accommodate the first project (construction of the ADU/shop).  Since my existing panel is pretty much full, it would be nice to get a fresh modern panel into the home, from which I could branch off to the shop/ADU once it's built, and then gradually move all my circuits into that panel.

With that in mind, I'd like some suggestions/help for the following:

What is the best way to design the shop/ADU feeders/panels to best work with what I have now, but with upgradability in mind?
Can I have the generator power both the house and the ADU if they end up being on independent feeders?
How would grid-tied solar fit into everything, once I get around to installing it?


texts: How do I remove the stair treads from under the stair skirt in order to replace just the tread?

texts: I am having our oak stairs refinishedby professionals.  Before that happens, I am replacing the entire banister and balustrades.  The bottom 2 stair treads need to be replaced because the banister was notched into one and the last one has a curved edge and we want to square it out.  The treads go UNDER the stair skirt.  I have attempted to get the tread off but am having difficulty getting it out from under the skirt. Is there a trick to this or do i really have to take the skirt off first- hoping to not have to do that...


texts:
I am remodeling my bathroom and the "tile guy" removed my shower parts. The old Moen valve was still retained.

I put everything back in using new Moen shower kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H19B72Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I could not figure out why turning the valve in either way did not turn on the water:

The water did not come in either of the position above.

What did I do wrong? Was there another shut off valve that I am not aware of?

Thanks.


texts: Ceiling Fan Install - detecting voltage in fixture

texts:
Hello all and thank you in advance for your time!

Here’s the situation: new construction master bedroom. I have a ceiling fan that operates with remote, no light kit. Then i also have a set of 4 can LED lights. The wall has 2 switches. One switch is a dimmer on a three way that turns the lights on. The other provides power to the fan and is NOT on a 3 way.

I have attached white to white and black to black as per fan instructions. This leaves my red wire as an extra and is capped. The fan works correctly as well as all lights function correctly! Great!

The problem I’m having is that when the lights are switched on, the fans hanging bracket, as well as down rod are showing voltage on my voltage detector. All grounds are connected (bare wire from ceiling, ground from hanging bracket and ground from down rod)

Is this an issue? I just want to make sure I’m good here and not gonna burn the house down!


texts: Power related question about LED strip lighting

texts:
I'm putting in some LED strips in my ceiling, but I'm really not sure how to play it.

The total length required is 20mtrs, running in a near perfect square. At the moment, I have one power outlet I can use.

I can't seem to find any 20mtr rolls; only rolls totalling 20mtrs (e.g. 4x5mtr), but as they all run from the same power source, it won't cover the 20mtrs required.

Am I best to maybe get another outlet on the opposite corner installed, and run 2x5mtr from each corner? I'm sure this is a dumb question, but could I run an extension through the roof to the opposite corner and do the same thing (in an attempt to save $)?


texts: Should it cost less than $12,000 to replace a bathroom and cast iron pipes in 1960s home?

texts:
I need some advice please before I make a decision on hiring a contractor. 1960's home with walkout basement needs a small bathroom gut & cast iron plumbing replaced. All of the plumbing is visible on the ceiling of the basement except for what drains into the underground line of course.

Because of leakage there is flooring and a joist missing under the tub which all needs to be replaced. I have $12,000 saved for project, is this a reasonable expectation?


texts:
Complete newbie to DIY-ing as well as Plumbing.
My wife and I decided to upgrade our kitchen sink and we chose a single basin, 9" deep model. I've been reading a lot on plumbing best practices and racking my brain at how best to move my garbage disposal to the right ( given that the new sink has it's drain on the R.H.S )
the following are a few of the obstacles that I can't figure out how to deal with ( see images )
namely:

There is little clearance from either one of the drain pipes coming from the wall as well as being glued to a wye and a tee? ( respectively ) So I don't know if cutting the fittings is advisable.

The vent is very high at this point and will definitely be an obstacle for the newer deeper sink So I don't even know how to deal with it, should I cut and recap? can I cut and recap? If I cut won't the lower diameter portion of the existing fitting be stuck in there?

What could I do with the p-trap coming from the lower drain's wye which I intend to connect to the disposal ( which again, I want to move to the RHS ) given that I think the trap would have to sit low-ish and the RHS drain is high.

Where can I install the new vent IFF I can somehow figure out what to do about the other one, my Idea is to use the capped branch on the lower wye.

I apologize If I used terms incorrectly, again, I'm a newbie ( for what it's worth I'm incredibly excited about this project and have nothing but the utmost respect for the professionals who do this challenging job every day )
I have attached a couple of pictures in hopes of making this a bit clearer.
I'd appreciate any input.

Ps: while I appreciate any kind of input, please do not suggest "leave it to a professional" as my goal is learning, personal growth, and a nicer sink than what I have right now... let's be constructive if we can.


texts: I've got several tiles in my dining room that have a diagonal crack running across them. Since it's a pretty straight line across several tiles, I'm guessing it's a foundation issue. The room is at the corner of the house, and the crack runs diagonally so that it "cuts off" the corner. If I replace the tiles, is it likely to crack again? Is there any way I can remedy this?


texts: How can I repair a toilet that leaks at the tank/bowl connection?

texts: My toilet began leaking onto the floor.  I have put plumbers putty around the two screws at the bottom (I think this is most likely the place it is leaking onto the floor - especially since the screws appear to be rusty - I think toilet is from 1994 when house was built) and I have put putty around where the tank empties into the toilet.  I have done this twice, but I did not remove the putty I put in first.  I think those are the only three places it could leak.  I have to keep the toilet off because if I allow the tank to fill, I have a cup or two of water at the end of the day.  What do you recommend I try next?  Thanks


texts:
I've been drafting a house for a couple years now and through many iterations I discovered one of the biggest flaws in how I was drafting was in not knowing what I would be building the house out of.

After looking up the differences between Concrete and Lumber construction I settled on the idea of drafting a concrete house. I found some nice ICF designs and have since been designing the house with ICFs in mind. However, recently I've been doubting the information I've been given. See I keep getting conflicting information on how thick ICFs should be.

How thick should an ICF Exterior and Interior Wall be in my drafting document?

Bonus: What parts take up what amount of space? How thick is the Core Concrete, insulation, etc.? And what tolerances should I have for drywall to go over the walls?


texts: I have a 3 way switch, if I turn it on in the kitchen and off in the dining room all is fine, now if my someone else turns it on in kitchen nothing happens, you turn it on in the dining room and off at the kitchen all's good, but to turn it on in the dining room nothing, help thanks


texts: Should vent directly above furnace be open or closed

texts:
There is a vent in the duct directly above my furnace.  This is in the air out side, not the return duct.

Is there a reason I should have this duct open?  It was open when I bought the house a few months ago, but this seems like a waste, heating and cooling the basement.

If there is a reason to have it open, should it be open only during certain seasons?  (Open for heating, closed for cooling, etc..)

This is an Amana AMEH800805CX.  (pictured below)


texts: Do you know how I can tell why I have two hot wires?

texts: All the outlets in the house are working and have connected neutral wires. However one unit has a both hot and neutral wires reading hot. And the light isn’t working. Can’t figure out why or where a neutral isn’t connected. Please help.


texts: How do I remove a stuck moen 1224 cartridge

texts:
How do you remove a stuck moen 1224 cartridge? My shower is a two handled moen chateau installed in 1994. Getting the collar of the cartridge was no problem. However, the cartridge won't budge. I don't have a puller but have tried needle-nose vice grips, wd 40 and channel locks with no luck.
Thanks


texts: Installing occupancy switch in a 2 gang scenario

texts:
I'm attempting to install Lutron Maestro (no neutral required) It has 4 wires, 2 black, 1 green and 1 bare.

The switch which needs to be replaced has 3 wires attached that come from the wall: green and 2 black ones.

1 Black wire ends around the screw on the switch, but the green and the second black wire both go around the screw and continue into the next switch where they end.

It is beyond me how to attach those "continuing" wires to the wires on my new Lutron switch.

DRAWING CORRECTION: On lutron sensor the pictured white wire is actually silver bare wire. (per instructions on Lutron the green and the bare should be combined before attaching to ground in box)


texts: How do I make a bulk holding tank for fire trucks to fill, using 3 different tanks of different sizes and different elevations?

texts:
I need to make a reserve of water for a fire truck to come and suck from.  I have 3 tanks on my site that I plan to pipe together, to make one location to suck from all the tanks.  Problem I have is that the tanks are at different elevations, so I will empty the highest tank and then the tank will draw air, and not draw from the lower tanks.  Or possible that the upper tank will end up filling and flooding the lower tank.
60 cubic meter upper tank, 72 cubic middle tank that is at the same elevation as the draw point, and 36 cubic lower tank.
Note that I can not use electrical items in the system, as it is a emergency supply water and I need to pretend there is no power.
The photo shows the connection point, which is a existing concrete tank underground where tank #1 is already connected.  Tank #1 is the easy tank as it is uphill to the connection point.
Tank #2 to the left is level with the connection point, and tank #3 is down hill from the connection point.

It comes down to, how do I take water out of all the tanks without the fire department sucking air, or running one tank empty?
My connection is both filling and unloading the tanks with water.  I expect if I fill tank 1 uphill I can always fill the other tanks from that tank.
One other thing, I agree with all you have said, is there any way to eliminate the valve on each tank, by maybe putting some kind of a gravity or float ball to stop the flow when the water gets to low.
In my cad picture you can see I put a back flow valve to keep water from backing up into the lower tanks, but then when you want to fill all the tanks, can just open the valve.


texts:
I'd like to make a shelf from 17mm (2/3") thick plywood, whose back will be affixed to a brick wall and its front will be suspended by metal cables from a concrete ceiling (e.g. something with the same principle of the construction in this image).

I'm aiming for a shelf about 2m (6ft 6.7in) wide and 80cm (2ft 7.5in) deep.

Naturally, I'd like the shelf to be as stable and robust as possible. I tried consulting the Sagulator, but I think my case requires 2D load analysis, whereas the Sagulator is apparently only 1D. So my questions are:

For affixing the back of the shelf to the wall, are 3-4 metal "L" brackets (distributed along the shelf's length) preferable to having a wooden support beam (as in the previously linked image)? What length of brackets should I get?
Will 3-4 metal cables in the front be enough? Will adding a metal support strip in the front of the shelf (through which the cables will pass) provide a significant improvement of the shelf's robustness?
What mass could I safely load on such a shelf?

Many thanks in advance for any help.


texts: My copper pipe has a leak right at the basement slab surface

texts: Leak in pipe is barely above the concrete floor. If try to cut and solder will be too low. Any suggestions? Too close to concrete for SharkBite connections.


texts: Should additional coats of polyurethane be applied after removing roughness?

texts:
Why did polyurethane make wood feel coarse?

In reference to the above thread...

If the first suggested solution seems to work to solve the coarseness issue, i.e. "polishing" the rough areas with brown paper, would we also need to add another coat of poly after doing so?

My parter and I are debating the issue.

(Note: The poly currently on there is a triple thick varthane, which is water based. We applied one coat per the instructions on the can. My question is in regards to having to do an addition coat after polishing, when I believed the project to be finished.)

In my view, by using the brown paper we are only removing a very small amount of the poly, the extra, or rough areas, and the stained pine wood underneath is still protected and sealed. Am I correct?


texts: Sprinkler: Water leaking from the black box with the screws

texts: After the winter storm when I turned on my water valve for my sprinkler, water gushed from the top. I notice the black top was cracked and I could take it off with my hand. Inside was filled with water and the rubber plastic ring and white and red plastic piece was floating at the top. Is this something easy to fix?


texts: how to make a half circle tunnel through a cement slab?

texts:
There is a slab of concrete in my backyard, and I need to make a half circle cut out in it like this picture below. This is for a 3" pipe to sit in.

How would I go about doing this?


texts: I think I sprayed too much primer for my first coat when painting my cabinets. What should I do next?

texts:
I’m using Zinnser cover stain primer and didn’t thin out before using my Wagner HVLP spray for the first time (they said no need to thin). It came out orange peel like and I think I sprayed too much for the first coat.
First coat:

I tried sanding it down but it took forever with 220 grit so I tired 120 and it took a while to get it somewhat smooth but even that didn’t make it completely smooth:
After light sanding:

Questions:

Do I need to get it completely smooth before moving to painting? Or is what I have in the photo enough?

The paint chipped a little when I sanded it. Is this bad? I can always go over it with primer again but is the rest of it at risk of more chipping cause it’s too thick?

These were some test run cabinets so I wanted to get the technique down before I did my full kitchen. Any advice to help save time and have a better finish is appreciated!


texts: How to connect a 4-wire to a 3-wire outlet?

texts: My question is about connecting a 4 wire to a 3 wire outlet.  The 4 wire was left sticking out of one corner of the hall closet from a previous wiring job.   Our electrician secured it in a junction box and indicated it can be used to connect a closet light.


texts: Can I glue the shower escutcheon onto a fiberglass shower stall?

texts:
I am replacing a gold shower escutcheon with a chrome one. As I removed the old escutcheon both bolts attaching it to the fiberglass shower stall snapped.
I am currently trying to drill into the bolts  to hopefully remove them. However, this is not going well.
As I am drilling I'm wondering about the possibility of just gluing the new escutcheon to the shower stall. I'm quite sure that this would work, but I wonder how difficult the new escutcheon would be to remove should I need to replace the cartridge down the road.
Any advice?


texts: Can I add another conductor to a 30-amp dryer circuit breaker?

texts: I have a 30 amp breaker that runs my dryer I want to know am I able to run another wire to that breaker to run a window unit


texts: What, if anything, do I do to repair notched floor joists?

texts: I have been building for a long time, so I know where floor joists can be bored or notched without compromising their strength.  Unfortunately, I have a client whose floor joists were hacked at by someone who didn't know the rules.  Her floor joists were notched by someone installing electrical cabling IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SPAN ON THE BOTTOM OF THE JOIST!!!!!! I know that I can reinforce the existing joists by sistering new joists to them, but I'm curious - is there any reason a carefully installed and glued patch wouldn't do the same trick?  It's been my experience that wood glue is stronger than the wood grain around the joint - at least as far as shear values are concerned.  But the end-grain to end-grain connection is where I worry that the glue would not hold up under tension.  Does anyone have an insight as to the efficacy of a patch?


texts: Is this a thin window air conditioning unit?

texts:
I'm trying to put air conditioning in my master bedroom. It has a loft and hence high ceiling with around 500 sq ft + 350 (loft). It is also on the third floor which is pretty high. As far as I can tell there are 3 options. split a/c, portable unit and window a/c. Split a/c is expensive and portable units probably not good enough/reliable etc. so I'm leaning towards window a/c. Anyway, this is just a background story to what I'm trying to ask.

I happen to see this on my neighbor's window which looks like a window a/c unit. It seems pretty thin but I'm unable to find anything like that anywhere. Could anyone tell me from the picture below if this is a window a/c unit and if so, what could it be? Its at the bottom of the right window that doesn't extend outside much, almost the same level as that of the window.


texts: I am trying to figure out the wiring for this model I am installing. The minimum circuit and max fuse is 15 amps. What size wire and breaker do I need? Also do I need a disconnect for this mini split?


texts: Thermostat T694B replacing with Honeywell SuitePRO TB6575A1000

texts:
I am replacing  a Thermostat T694B  with a Honeywell SuitePRO TB6575A1000 in an apartment building with switchover heating/cooling, so presumably two-pipe system.
Button-wiring mapping:
Lo: 1
Med: 2
Hi: 3
Summer: 4
Winter: 5
I've attached a photo of the T694B wiring diagram but I'm not sure it matches how my thermostat is wired.
Only have three wires from old thermostat to junction box: two black (connected to 2 and 3) and one yellow.
2 and ground have 120V when Med button pushed. Otherwise is 49V.
3 and ground have 120V when Hi button pushed. Otherwise is 49V. When black wire is disconnected from terminal 3, it measure 44V.
L1  and ground = 120V.
L2 (is jumpered with L1) and ground = 120V
Yellow wire from thermostat (for valve?) connected in junction box to both black wire labeled "120" and white wire (I have uncapped them in photo). Black wire labeled "120" and ground = 120V. I can't remember for certain but think the black "120" wire and the white wire it's connected to (along with yellow) come out of the same white Romex-type cable (middle of the three in picture).
Power flows from black "120" wire in wall down yellow wire in thermostat to 2 or 3 depending on which button is pressed to control fan speed. Also, the 120 goes back out via the white wire. Correct?
The other two white wires in the junction box are connected and capped (orange cap in photo).  Why doesn't the old thermostat have a neutral wire attached to it?
Given schematic of new thermostat, it looks like Gm and Gh connect to the black wires currently wired to terminals 2 and 3, respectively (fan speed in current thermostat).
Assuming that is correct, how to wire up the rest: L (hot), W/Y, and N in new thermostat?
Do I connect the wall "120" black wire to new thermostat terminals L, and W/Y?
Any help and suggestions (and explanation of what is going on in my thermostat) would be awesome and much appreciated!


texts: After a water main line repair on our street, our hot water stream for the bathtub suddenly is very weak. Could the pipe be clogged by debris?

texts:
Situation as described in the question. We first suspected a partial freeze (temperatures have been extremely and unusually low here in Austin), but even after hours of running the steaming hot trickle, nothing improved. All other pipes seem fine, and opening other faucets doesn't seem to affect the issue – so I don't think it's simply a lack of water pressure in the system.
I'm starting to think it must be some partial mechanical blockage. We do have a hot water tank, and the bathtub is the first branch line after the tank. Could a) the extreme temperatures, b) the main line repair, or c) the fact that we let the bathtub faucet drip all night to prevent the pipes from freezing, somehow have caused this? Could the dripping have dramatically accelerated calcification with chalk sediments from the hot water tank, for example?
Unfortunately, I can't access the 5 or so feet of pipes where the problem must originate from.
Hannes


texts: Should I release the pressure out of an air compressor when it is not in use?

texts:
Just got a new compressor and I wondering if I should be releasing all of the pressure out of the unit when it is not in use?  Or is it better to leave the pressure in so that the unit does not have to work as hard to build up the pressure next time?

I am not planning on using the unit daily.  Mostly for weekend projects and regular maintenance (airing up car tires... etc).


texts: What water saving technology could I apply to this tap (pic below). I can't identify its gender

texts: I tried amazon to find out, but i really couldn't figure out what water saving tech would be most helpful. See the Water Saving Tap Aerator


texts: Wiring Transition from Inside of wall to Outside of Wall for hard-wired appliance

texts:
I am installing an electric kickspace/toe kick heater as part of my kitchen remodel.  I do not quite understand how to transition the supply wiring from inside the wall to the space underneath of the cabinet where the heater will located.

It seems if I used a junction box that is secured inside of the wall (like all standard receptacle/switch installations), there would not be a way to get the wire into the living space (requirement for the junction box to be closed up with a faceplate).

If I mount a junction box outside of the wall, so I can use the side entrances/exits for the wires in the living space, then the supply wire would just exit the wall unprotected for a small distance - I don't think that is code compliant (please correct me if I am wrong).

Any advice would be helpful.  NEC 2014 applies in my area and the work will be inspected.


texts:
I have recently been having problems with the sound in my room and somebody has suggested I use fibreglass to soundproof. Unfortunately the sound is entering through the window and so I thought of putting sheets of fibreglass in black bin liners up against the window. Will these fibreglass sheets (inside bin bags) be dangerous or irritant? What about if I moved them around in the bin bags (I.e. They weren't just leant up against the window)?
I'm worried that because it's not inside something more solid like a wall it may be give off fibres that could be irritant or in the worst case, cancerous?


texts: What kind of service panel to use when the enemy is condensate, not rain?

texts:
I have looked  at indoor and outdoor panels.  However, the design of the outdoor panel seems to be geared to excluding rain, falling from top to bottom or a little sideways.  Actually, my location can't have rain, but it does have issues with condensation.

What special characteristics should I look for in such a panel?


texts: Protecting a hardwood floor from metal chair feet

texts:
I have a couple of barstools and a recently refurbished hardwood floor and I suspect that they might not get along.

Any ideas on things I could fix to the bottom of these feet or other solutions?

picture of chair foot


texts:
I have doors I would like to electronically control remotely.  I have seen  door strikes in older NYC apartments that I thought would be perfect: until I remembered the target doors are outswing.

Is there a solution similar to an inswing electronic door strike for outswing doors?


texts: How can I replace multiple 3 way switches with motion sensors?

texts:
My tenants never turn the lights off in the stairwells of my 3 family house, so I'd like to replace all of the light switches with motion sensors. Here is a crude diagram of how this is set up now.

Each number indicates a 3 way switch. 2 questions:

Can I replace each switch with these sensors?
The #1 switch on the left with the asterisk is in the first floor apartment and I'd like to disable it, so that the first light only comes on from motion in the hallway when a door is opened. How do I take this switch out of the loop?


texts: How do I wire a GFCI receptacle using two black wires and two white wires?

texts: I recently purchased an older home and wanted to install GFCI outlets in the kitchen.  When I opened up the outlet, there were four wires (two black and two white) in addition to the ground.  I watched a few videos online about installing GFCI outlets, but they only gave guidance about doing it when there's one black, one white and the ground. Currently, the two-prong outlets have all four wires attached - the two black wrapped around screws on one side and the two white wrapped around screws on the other side. What do I do with these "extra" black and white wires on the GFCI outlets?  Attach them somehow or tie them off?


texts: Why did my newly applied paint run and not adhere to the wall?

texts:
I painted my bathroom, then woke up the next morning to find that half the paint from the top of the window wall had dripped back off again, leaving really big tear marks down the wall.

The bathroom was originally painted the blue colour.  I sanded, applied sugar soap and waited till it dried, and just applied white paint as the color I am putting on is lighter. There was no silicone or anything. I just think the wall is that damp. The paint covered really well so I was all set to add the colour on top the next day. The wall gets damp overnight as do the window, toilet etc. from condensation I think.

I have really limited money and was advised to use PVA on the wall to seal it, then paint over that once dry to get the paint to stick.

Has anyone tried this and did it work?


texts: I have a Moen shower faucet with a 1222 positemp cartridge. The handle adapter broke so I ordered a new unit but I didn't replace the cartridge since I was unable to remove it and I wasn't even able to put the cartridge clip back on since it was so tight. Several weeks after I replaced the handle adapter a big leak emerged below into the ceiling in the kitchen.  It filled half a bucket in just a few minutes. the leak is right below the toilet but I know it is coming from the shower. I tried dropping water in the shower drain but no water leaked so I know it is when I turn on the shower.  Could this leak be caused by the cartridge needing to be replaced or is it because the clip was not installed or could it be a bigger problem with the pipes?


texts:
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA area

House: 1972 single story, approx 1500 sf attic area.

When we bought the house the prior owners paid for attic mold remediation.  I believe the mold was a result of inadequate attic ventilation.

Currently the house has soffit vents consisting of 19 sets of 3 2-inch holes and two gable vents (about 18"x24" each) as shown in the images below.  There are currently 8 vents on the east slope of the roof.  At some point someone added a powered attic fan venting on the west slope of the roof, but with the limited soffit vents I suspect this actually contributed to the problem instead of correcting it.

One contractor has proposed:

Removing the perforated 2x4s completely to open up the soffits (screened, of course)
Increasing the number of open segments at the soffit line from 19 to 20
Blocking the gable vents
Adding 6 more attic vents

From other questions on this site and research on the Internet, I understand I need about 10 sf free area (1:150) for proper ventilation.  My concern is that the proposed changes will result in only about 7.8 sf intake free area ( (15" x 3.75" x 20) / 144).

Is the proposed plan sufficient, or should I request the number of soffit openings be increased to 26 (10.15 sf)?

Soffit vents:

Gable vent:

Roof vents:

Attic fan:


texts:
My dad needs to repair a water leak on a property. This house has a long driveway (roughly 20 metres). But when he went there to have a look, there was no noticeable leak (water puddle etc). Bathroom & under the house have been checked thoroughly and there was no sight of any serious water leak. Currently there is about 0.8 ton of water lost per day due to this leak, which is not a small amount.

My question is that, is there any way we could detect where the water leak is without having to hire a plumber?

Is there any equipment that we could hire to find the source of the leak?


texts: How do I connect a 1/2”BSP (F) Swivel inlet with a Quick Connect hose end?

texts:
I want to connect this washing gun to a hose end (1/2") with a quick connect system. What connector do I need? Any links would be welcome!

For instance, would any of these work?


texts: Philips hue extension cable substitution

texts:
I have an outdoor Philip's hue light strip. The supplied cable is not long enough. They do sell extension cables for way too much money so I am wondering if I can just use ordinary low voltage wire and be ok. I would have to do some splicing because they have proprietary ends but that's ok.

Here is the transformer:

And the wire coming out of it (the DC part):


texts: Can someone explain this interface of frigidaire front load washing machine?

texts: Can someone please explain this interface (the buttons, what do they do?) of front load washing machine from frigidaire?


texts: Understanding fireplace junction box outlets

texts:
I want to setup my gas fireplace for home automation, roughly following a guide like this or this.

I'm planning to use GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1 or the FortrezZ
MIMOlite.

I need to get power to the Z-Wave Relay. Under my fireplace is a junction box with 3 outlets: TRANS, REM/AUX, and FAN. Just like the one shown below.

Does it matter which of these 3 outlets I plug into? I cannot figure out what the difference between them are, even after looking at the fireplace manual. Are these simple 120V outlets that are always on?

Trying to understand why each is labeled differently and what that means for me.


texts:
This is the kind of door I have.

But I don't know what's an effective way to soundproof it.

As much as possible I don't wanna spend much money that could reach $20 and above.

I don't have that much budget


texts:
Our cooktop was not designed with kids in mind. (Were kids better behaved in the 50s?) Anyways the push buttons are in the front, about 3 feet off the ground. We try to keep the kids out of the kitchen and items off of the burners, but toddlers find a way, and yesterday they could have burned our house down.

Here are the options I've thought of:

Replacing the cooktop with a model that has knobs on top (but pricey)
Moving the push button control panel higher (but don't have a good
place for it)
Adding a cutoff timer for the cooktop - my ideal

I am thinking a hot-tub style wall timer, so that the stove can be activated for a while but will automatically turn off, unless set to hold. I think we would forget to turn off a simple switch.

Is that a feasible idea? The only switches I can find are 20A rated and I suspect the cooktop is at least 30A, so it might be moot.


texts: How much clearance is necessary for vent cleaning?

texts: I'm having my ducts cleaned tomorrow and I'm preparing for their arrival tonight. Despite all my research I'm unable to find how much room these cleaners typically need, and unfortunately it's too late to call them. How much clearance will the vent cleaners need to properly access my vents?


texts: How to approach expanding the deck a little bit to make room for a grill?

texts:
We're always moving the grill around because it's in the way when not in use. I'd like to find a permanent home for it and this location would be perfect if I could easily expand the deck a little.
The idea would be just to remove the railing, extend the deck out about 2' and put the railing back I don't want additional footings so I'm hoping to accomplish this with just some joist hangers off the current beams.
Thoughts on how best to achieve this?


texts: Is there a trick to opening a tube of caulk?

texts: Is there a tool especially designed for opening a tube of caulk, silicone, or construction adhesive?


texts: Who do I hire to design my home HVAC system?

texts:
Preface

I need to buy a new HVAC system for my 1930s home. I currently have forced air duct system. My gas furnace was installed in 1985 and is rusting out, and I'm not sure about the air conditioner.

Experience

I had a local big name HVAC company come out to give me an estimate. His sizing calculation consisted of going through my home and counting the registers and returns (not every room in my home has returns). He didn't take any measurements of the rooms ... which seemed odd to me.

Question

Is there a certain kind of professional that I can hire to inspect my home and design a heating and cooling system ? I think I'd like this person to be different from the person that will be selling the system to me.

Questions I would like this person to answer:

What is the correct size system for my home?
What is appropriate type of system for my home: heat pump, gas furnace, etc ?
Are my existing ducts adequate ?
What should I consider when choosing one system over an other?


texts: Can new sheathing be laid over my original roof decking?

texts: I have a 1960 ranch home and will be having my roof replaced in the near future.  I currently have old space decking and the roofing company said that they need to put sheathing down.  Is this something that can be put down over the space decking or should the old decking be taken off first?


texts: Temporary no reading to ground on a Delta system

texts: This seems to be a transient problem however if I turn a disconnect switch off on any one of several other systems the problem goes away


texts: There is an empty bracket for a smoke detector in the hallway. See picture. What brand/model of detector uses that kind of bracket?


texts: Toilet occasionally runs shortly after flushing

texts:
I have a Kohler canister valve toilet that is 3-4 years old.   I used it this morning shortly before leaving for work.  A few minutes after it finished flushing, I was back in the bathroom to finish getting ready and it started running.   Since I needed to get to work, I turned off the water supply and left.   When I returned home, I turned it on and it didn't run.   I flushed it and it ran, stopped, and was fine all evening.   Then I used it again, it finished flushing, and I went to do something else.  I came back and it was running.   It stopped after 15-20 seconds but it was still dripping consistently inside the tube connected to the flap.  Flushing it again caused it to stop running.

I'm assuming that some part needs to get replaced, but not sure what.   I did replace the gasket on the valve about a year ago.


texts: Testing and proper breakers for a multi wire branch circuit?

texts: How do you determine if an outlet is part of a unidentified multi-wire branch circuit? Also, does code say MWBCs need to be on double throw circuit breakers and is it permissible to link CBs with that hole in the handle?


texts: Do I need to cover an unused punched out hole in a junction box? If so, how?

texts:
I removed a Romex cable that was going into a junction box top middle opening(you can see in the picture).

There is still an opening at that punch out.

Is it okay to leave it as is? If not, how do I cover it?


texts: Should new plywood be installed over old separating plywood?

texts: I just had my roof replaced and the contractor said that the old plywood under the two sets of shingles were separating and rotted in some places. He also let me know that he installed the new plywood over the old plywood to save the cost of  removing the old. Will this be sufficient for the new plywood to hold? And will it affect the life of the new shingles?


texts: How to soundproof a wall between two apartments in a 1950s NYC structure?

texts:
I'm hoping someone might have a suggestion about the best way to soundproof my bedroom wall that is adjacent to my neighbor's living room. It is an apartment that I own in a coop building in NYC that was built in the 1950s.

I am pretty sensitive to noise when I'm trying to get to sleep and my new neighbor seems to keep late hours. I can hear his T.V. and chatter through my wall and it's pretty much driving me nuts. I understand that the noise won't be 100% gone. The walls are actually pretty decent in this building. My head is nearest to that wall when I'm in my bed.

I am having a contractor come in to do some renovations to my apartment so I thought this might be a good opportunity to have him do some soundproofing as well.  I've read some mixed reviews on this, but in my research, Quietrock and Green Glue seem to come up quite frequently.

I was thinking that I would have the contractor put up 5/8" Quietrock over this existing wall with green glue between. The wall isn't terribly large so I don't mind spending $60 ea for about 4 or 5 sheets of Quietrock. I thought using both of these materials over the existing wall (which is painted - not sure if that makes a difference) might be a double whammy against the noise coming from his apartment.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this idea or is there something that might work better?  I'm open to other solutions, but I don't want to spend crazy money on labor.

Anything suggestions on this?


texts: Replace under warranty Bradford White or get a new Rheem water heater?

texts:
I have a Bradford White water heater that is about 4 years old, still under warranty, and has started leaking.  My understanding is that it must be replaced.

The plumber I contacted about this told me that Bradford White water heaters are known to fail very frequently usually just after the warranty expires.

He suggested that rather than replace the Bradford White, I have him install a Rheem.

He quoted me roughly $1250 to install a new Rheem, or about $800 to  install a replacement Bradford White.

Do you think spending the extra $450 is a good idea?


texts: How can I remove paint from an indoor brick wall?

texts:
I have a red brick wall that was painted. I need to figure out an easy method of removing the paint without damaging the brick. Are there any tried and true methods?

One thing to remember is that these bricks have a lot of pores!


texts:
Here's the back story. Last night, house was 70 degrees. Knowing that over night it would get chilly, I put the heat on 68 degrees.

This morning I woke up and the heat was still of course set to 68 degrees, but the house was 64 degrees! I also noticed that the thermostat said AUX HEAT ON.

Any thoughts on why this would be the case? This is a heat pump, by the way.

Why would there be a 4 degree difference with the heat running?
Why would the auxiliary heat be on?

I understand the aux heat kicks on when there isn't enough heat outside, but it didn't get much below 40 degrees last night, possibly even a low of 45 degrees.


texts: What is a good simple hand tool for packing small surfaces of dirt to prepare it for laying concrete? I've seen big pneumatic hammers at large construction sites and was wondering if there is a good manual version of it.


texts:
My new home is under construction and I noticed the gas has been distributed to three places through a very tight and rough hand-dug hole.

Yes, I have concern about potential gas leakage. Though we will have advanced detector...

Is such installation normal? If not, What kind of code is related to this?

===========================================

Update: 2016/03/06

More unbelievable work has been done to "protect" the gas pipes...

County inspector just say they will determine if it meets the minimum code requirements. Now just wait to see if it can pass the county inspection.


texts: Why is the power to three bathrooms' lights out?

texts: I have no lights in any of my bathrooms which i have 3.i checked all outlets and they have power. I reset all breakers and still no lights. Any ideas?


texts: How do I wire a switch to a fixture that is served by wires in an iron pipe?

texts:
I have wall sconces similar to the one pictured below in my apartment:

The only difference between this and the picture is in addition to containing the switch, there is a power outlet in the bottom of the fixture.  So, instead of having a light, then underneath it a switch controlling the light and an outlet somewhere else, it's all in one unit.

Long story short: I hate hate hate hate these sconces.  The light they give off is terrible, mainly because of that translucent glass "shade" that covers the bulb.

My intention is to replace these with a standard sconce, then below that a switch to control it.  So I don't lose the outlet, I was going to add an outlet further down the wall not controlled by the switch.  I set about digging into the plaster.

What I expected to find was BX that I could cut with a metal blade.  Instead, I found what looks like iron pipe.  I've seen this once before in my kitchen, but it was going into the ceiling.  This appears to be headed towards the floor (because I discovered it below the existing fixture).

What are my options here?  What is this pipe made of?  Can it be cut?  Do I need to rip the whole thing out of the wall?  Where does it end?

I live in a high rise building in UWS Manhattan NYC.  The building was built approximately 1957.  FWIW, the walls are a combination of concrete (hooray) and plaster on metal lath  (which is what this wall is made of).  It's a horrible mess dealing with that stuff, and I'd rather a) not do any more demolition and b) not my efforts so far count for nothing.

My inclination is to dig out just enough more plaster so I can get a pipe cutter around that pipe, just above and below where the new switch box will go.  Thus the remaining pipe will continue to armor the cable.  But obviously I've never done anything like this before.

Recommendations on specific tools and techniques are most welcome.  Also, feel free to tell me if it sounds like I'm in over my head here.

Picture of the pipe:


texts: "Upgrading" a mechanical defrost timer in an upright "frost free" freezer

texts:
I am a happy owner of an upright frost free freezer which, after only two years, has needed to have its mechanical defrost timer replaced. Apparently, this timer runs the heater coil for twenty minutes after every twelve hours of compressor operation.

I have read some concerns that people have voiced about short cycling a refrigerant compressor and am interested in cutting costs as well as reducing wear on the machine.

My question is: are there any controller upgrades that would be more intelligent about running the defrost coil? For example, a simple, improved rule set would consist of:

  IF   time since last last defrost > 12 hours
  AND  positive rise (defrost timer is being energized because thermostat closing)
  THEN start defrost cycle
  ELSE run compressor

It strikes me that there might be a drop-in replacement controller that already follows similar logic, which would theoretically greatly reduce the chances of short cycling the compressor when initiating a defrost cycle.

In our usage case, we open and close the freezer at least once a day and try to keep it packed to the gills with pwecious fwood.


texts: Installing thermostat - No C wire or C terminal available on furnace

texts:
So I've looked through many posts all over reddit and other websites but it seems every furnace is slightly different.

I am an early twenties guy who doesn't want to burn down his apartment.

If anyone can help me wire up my new thermostat I would appreciate it.

I attached an album showing all the diagrams on the furnace/ac which I believe is gas furnace and electric air??

People talk about switching G for C but I don't have a C connection on the furnace?

Overall this has been a very frustrating experience so I thought it best to just ask people with experience wiring them.


texts: Aluminum vs galvanized vs stainless tubing for fence with railing?

texts:
I'm building a simple fence that's composed of 1" or 1.5" OD x 0.065" wall x 4-ft tube soldered to a stainless steel base that's bolted to concrete. This fence will have a wood rail at the top.

Initially, I was thinking of galvanized steel, then I switched to stainless, and just today I saw many sellers selling aluminum tubing that's cheaper (cost + shipping) than stainless steel. This will be close to the ocean, so it would need to be rust-resistant.

Would it make sense to use aluminum tubing instead of stainless or galvanized? The only weight these tubes will bear is the 2x4" lumber used as railing.

The first thing that comes to mind when I think of aluminum is tin foil, and that's why I'm asking. I understand it's not as strong as steel, but I want to confirm if it's strong enough.

It's something like this, but with wood rail.


texts:
I was going to hang a few floating shelves from target and they came with plastic anchors that they said to screw into the wall.

Since I don’t have a drill, so I tried that but the anchors stop going in right at the end of the pointy part (very technical, I know) and where the screw begins.

So I googled it and was told to take the outlet cover off to ensure it’s dry wall so I’ve attached that photo, as well as a picture of the anchor and how far it’s gone in.

The wall is right next to a window (wall that faces the outside world) so I’m not sure if that has any bearing. I just want to know if I’m not pressing hard enough or if there’s something in the way? There is a metal plate behind the outlet but I’m not sure if that would go all the way up.

Also, I’m renting and not too keen on making a bunch more holes if I don’t have to so the whole “move the nail to the left and try” doesn’t seem like a great method to me.

I’ve hung other things elsewhere, like picture hanging hooks without problem.

Any help would be much appreciated, and the more simple and clear the better as I’m a beginner 23 year old.  Thanks!


texts: Is there some official or standard specification for an EK20 fitting?

texts:
I'm researching parts for a heating manifold and am confused about what size or type of fitting is correct. More specifically, what the standard size of the fitting actually is.
The manifold is a Rifeng / Vevo make, which I think is also sold under a bunch of other name brands like Bluefin. The fitting in question is for each of the loop ports - its threaded and seals with an O-ring. Example:

The example parts that I can find are labelled "EK20". Here's an example of a '1/2" PEX to EK20 Loop Fitting' .
But I can't find any info on what "EK20" really means. I actually was able to screw on a US garden hose fitting... it went on "OK", not very smooth (but that's not uncommon with GHT). I didn't try it with any pressure or anything like that so I don't really know if it was a match [see below].
With fitting types like NPT for instance, you know exactly what will work with what. That's why I'm hoping to find some better info on whatever EK20 means, especially if brand names disappear over time.
I did come across a forum post claiming it was a "Eurokronus" fitting, but that search term seems like a dead end.

Update - I did a little test using a few garden hose caps. While they do screw on and feel like they tighten, they definitely do not seal well. I tried one under a little air pressure and it would leak. Possibly the threads are subtly different so that they aren't really tightening on rubber washer.
But also I noticed that another EK20 fitting I have has an O-ring with a much smaller diameter so that it fits within the male portion against a beveled edge; whereas a garden hose rubber washer seats on the outer surface of the male part and maybe cannot provide a good enough seal.
In any case, GHT is evidently not the same as EK20, at least in all the details.


texts: How do you protect your home while restaining your front door?

texts:
I have been wanting to restain my front door. It is old and there is a lot of damage caused by heat and moisture. I know it takes some time and multiple coats of stain and poly to do it right, but it seems problematic to leave your house wide open for that long. What do you use to protect your home from people, animals, and the elements? Do you just cover it with a tarp or is there some sort of temporary wall that I can put up while I am working on it? Do I just need to make sure that I am home all of the time while trying to get it done?

Thanks


texts: What are these blinds and how do they work?

texts:
I am renting an apartment in Milan, Italy, and my room has an attached terrace with it. The terrace has these blinds, which have not been opened for centuries (so they may be stuck) and they have accumulated a lot of dust and grime.

These blinds are very typical in Milan, I've seen them in nearly every apartment complex I've been to.

This is the blinds in a closed state

On both sides it has two plastic cords, which are anchored to the floor. This is the left anchor

The lower one is the right anchor, top one belongs to another one of these blinds.

There are also the two accompanying cords which I am accustomed to seeing with blinds.

I cannot get them to open. Can someone please tell me what are these blinds called? And how may I even begin to open them up? Is there supposed to be some sort of locking mechanism somewhere?


texts:
After pulling down some paneling in our bathroom I discovered why they had it there in the first place. At one time there was plastic tile over the walls and they damaged the surface while removing them. I want to tile the walls but I'm concerned that the areas where the skim coat was chipped away will make my install uneven. The skim is maybe 1/16 of an inch thick, so is that really enough to worry about? Reskimming this would be a hassle, and I know I need to fill in areas where the damage is deeper. Is it even enough of a difference to worry about?

Details: The wall is OPPOSITE the shower, so I'm not concerned with waterproofing. I'll be using 13x13 tiles. The wall is plaster board with an additional 1/2" plaster on top, so it's nearly an inch thick and very sturdy. No way am I tearing it out.


texts:
The last 30 years we've lived in this house, we've had a problem with 1 of the bedroom's electrical receptacles.

On the same wall, there are 2 receptacles about 10 feet apart on opposite sides of the wall. The top plug on each don't work, and the bottom plug do work. The switch in the room has never worked, and we assumed it was because it's connected to those 2 (top) plugs. Since the room adjacent to this one has the exact same setup, but actually do work.

I decide to tackle the problem finally and bought a Receptacle Tester. The reading had no lights turn on. Which indicated Open Hot on the tester. According to the manual this means that the hot contact is not connected.

Does anyone have an much more in-depth explanation about what Open Hot means?

Is this something I could easily fix myself? Is it possible that the switch itself is actually bad?

Offtopic question, There is button on my receptacle tester in the middle, and when i pressed the button while connected to the open hot outlet it gave a faint glow.

What does that button actually do or represent? And what does the faint glow indicate?

Thanks.


texts: Can you identify these large pipe shaped chunks that came out of my cold water tap?

texts:
Last night I opened the cold water on my faucet to fill a pot to make some ramen.  Right as I was about to put my pot under the faucet the water turned brown and there was a noticeable pressure drop so I turned the faucet off.

Remembering a similar biyearly occurrence at a previous residence (every time they'd flush/check the fire hydrants), I assumed it might be rust that had clogged the airator screen.  I removed the handle off of my faucet head and started to flush water into the sink. The water was clearer than before but it was still darker color than normal. After about 2 min it started looking more normal, then suddenly started expelling the large chunks, some as long as 4 cm pictured below.

Does anyone know what these are?  Was this created by bacteria? rusting pipes? lime scale?

I called my utility to ask what was happening, they told me there was no work in my area, or hydrants being flushed and to just flush from the lowest point in my house.  I did that but only saw a couple flakes which could of just been Teflon threading from the removal of the shower handle there.  I went back up stairs to finish flushing my kitchen sink, but it took more than 20 min of shutting off and turning back on my cold water for the flakes to subside.


texts:
I have an L6-20R outlet that is rated at 20-amp 240volt. The circuit breaker is a 2-pole 20/120.

I have 2 16-amp 120v power distribution units with L5-20P ends.

Could I run an L6-20P to 2X L6-20R and then convert the L6-20R to L5-20p and safely run 1.5Kw off each split without any power issues?


texts: okay to use fatter/longer extension cord than spec'd for power tools?

texts:
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?

I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?


texts: GFCI burned out during low transformer outage

texts:
About a year ago, we had a large low transformer fire on our block in Brooklyn, NY.  That's according to ConEd response team. Before and during the fire which lasted few hours, voltage has been jumping up and down. By next day, I had three GFCI outlets in kitchen and bathroom tripped and I could not reset them back. I opened them up and they had signs of hot wire melting onto the plastic. Other building tenants had similar problems, few tenants said they had to replace appliances ie. microwave, computer.

My question is about the outlets. Can transformer issue on the street cause what I described in the apartment? Is there way to protect building or individual apartments from grid issue? Thanks


texts:
I have a 200 amp service panel, and I calculate I am using about 160 amps. (I used a formula I found online that takes the square footage of the house and then adds from there) The new 160 sqft shed is on the other side of the breaker box so the run will be about 80 - 90 feet. In the shed I want to run a mini split air/heat that requires a 240v 15 amp breaker.  I would also like to have a 120v 15 amp breaker for lights and a 120v 20 amp breaker for plugs.  Lights will be led fluorescents and the plugs will be light duty tools and battery chargers so not really very much draw at all.  The shed will be insulated and sheetrocked. It is 10 feet at the peak of the roof.  The mini-split is 27.5 seer and 550 Watts so should draw too much either.
I have space in my service panel to add a 240v breaker, two poles, 25 amps and 25 amps and I will run 2 hots, 1 neutral and one ground number 8 AWG THWN2 through 1" pvc at the service panel into the attic where I would switch to Carlon flexible Blue conduit, then pop out the other side of the house and go back to 1" pvc down the house and 18" into ground to the shed.  I was thinking at that point I would run it to a 60 amp disconnect switch and then through the shed wall to a indoor subpanel maybe 100 amps with my three breakers.  I read that the sub panel would need the ground and neutral unbonded and that I would need to use 2 8ft grounding rods 6 feet apart so will do that.
So does that sound reasonable?
If the new 240V 25 amp double pole breakers add up to 50 amps, that would technically give me 210 amps usage at the service panel. 160 + 50. Would that be okay on a 200 amp service? Or is it counted as only 25 amps in which case I would be fine.
Also, at the shed's sub panel, I would have those 3 breakers adding up to either 65 amps if the 240 15 amp gets added as 30, or else it would be 50 amps.  Would the 240V double 25 amp breaker be big enough to support the 3 breakers in the shed?  Is number 8 wire big enough or do I need to go to 6 awg?
The 60 amp disconnect has two line and two load connectors and a ground. However there is no place for the neutral.  Would I just pass the neutral through the wall into the subpanel and not be involved at all with the disconnect wires?  I'm thinking the disconnect just needs to break the hots and not the neutral, but wanted to make sure.
Thanks for any help.  I'm relatively new to electrical wiring so want to be sure I'm doing it all correctly and up to NEC standards.
Thanks, Andy.


texts:
We have two dormers (roughly 12x12 each) with a very low pitch roof (1:12, essentially flat). They've been roofed with rolled rubber for about 20 years but it's getting to be time to replace. This is in southern Michigan so all climate factors apply: heat, snow etc.

I'm considering replacing -- or just covering over -- the rubber with white metal for better heat control. (I assume there are metal roofs spec'd for low pitch.) But I'm concerned that this will make the bedrooms much noisier in the rain. How big an issue is this and would leaving the rubber in place mitigate it?

Aesthetics are not a concern because this roof is only visible from space. (-:


texts: What size air conditioner for a ~230 square foot room with 10 foot ceilings?

texts:
This will be my first time purchasing a window unit, and I'm a little confused.  Most charts indicate that a 7,000 BTU unit is appropriate for a ~250 square foot room, however from what I can tell, these do not exist (only 6,000 and 8,000 BTUs are available).  Also, none of the guides I see mention ceiling height, which I figured would be important (i.e. cubic footage seems more appropriate than square footage).  Finally, many say that getting a unit that is too powerful actually won't cool as effectively, but don't really explain what this means exactly - if I put a 20,000 BTU unit in a 100 square foot room, would the room really be warmer than it would be with a 5,000 BTU unit?  Or do they just mean that it would be overkill?

Finally, some 6000 BTU units, like the GE AEL06LS say that they are only appropriate for 150 square foot rooms, and I don't understand why.

Anyway, my room that is 233 square feet, with ~9.5 foot ceilings.  Would it be best to get a 6000 BTU unit or a 8000 BTU unit?


texts: Is there a way to make a thermostat based heating system more accurate through either adding probes or hacking?

texts: In my Brooklyn apartment, heated via steam radiator, my thermostat is in the unheated hallway between all the rooms. The temperature it reads is often different, than both the rooms with heaters and hallway. Where does the temperature probe for a standard dial thermostat live? Can it be expanded/moved/hacked? Would it be possible/wise to add a second probe for more accurate heating?  Would it be a better idea to get an electronic one?


texts: Can I drill a cast iron enameled shower pan for door installation?

texts: Drill in hand, about to do it! Should there be concern here?


texts: Are all boiler heating systems closed?  In other words, are they all filled with water that is just constantly recirculated, or are there some that put the outgoing water elsewhere?