texts: Installing a pet door - no ideal location - support beam question

texts:
I am in the process of installing a pet door and there really isn't any ideal area in the living area to install it due to either things on the inside that are in the way or on the outside that are in the way etc.

I found one location that would be perfect for it until I cut the drywall back and found a center stud. I did check this wall with a beam finder prior and knew it was there but I wanted to see what I was working with anyway.

This is an exterior wall that leads into the back yard but due to the beam, I am not sure how to proceed.

I found the second image online regarding a possible workaround but wanted to find out if there are any prerequisites for such process. The issue is that the holes on the right side are to the left of the beam that supports the window frame so putting in another piece of wood for the "jack" would probably come out too far and interfere with the the dog door it self.

Do I have any options for this?


texts: Replacing existing ceiling fan but there’s no junction box

texts: I’m replacing an older existing ceiling fan in our home hat was built in 1997, located in Corydon, Indiana. We’ve lived here for 4 years. When I removed the existing ceiling fan, I noticed there was no outlet box, the wiring is simply staples to the ceiling joist and the fan itself was screwed into the joist. I’ve replaced several ceiling fans but this is the first time I’ve come across an installation done this way without an outlet box. I am concerned this may not be code and may pose a safety concern. The wire can be pulled down 2-3 inches.


texts:
The painter used a sprayer to paint and it got on the cement floor around our house. What is the best way to remove the paint

You’ll see from the pictures that some of it is little droplets over large areas and some of it is concentrated paint in small areas.


texts: What is the recommended method of insulating PEX piping?

texts:
During the winter chill here in DC, one of my pex pipes that is not insulated and basically exposed to the elements cracked. I blame the contractors who didn't insulate and finish the job, literally leaving a hole in the drywall where you could see and touch the pipes... outside.

I'm back in town and want to repair the cold water pipe and insulate it, but I am a newbie and I don't know how to do this. Do I just put normal wall insulation (fiberglass) in there? I heard something about a heat coil that automatically turns on when it gets colder?

I have googled a bit and found "Heat Cable for Pipe Freeze Protection" on Amazon which looks both super affordable and simple, but I'm not a plumber and I don't know if this is the recommended option. Any advice would be great!


texts:
My home in Western Australia was built 4 years ago. I want to replace the basic outdoor light rose with a new LED bunker wall light. But the terminals on the light fittings are different.

The basic rose has 4 terminals but the new bunker has only 3. There are 2 wall cables connected to the old light - one has 3 wires (red, black, green/yellow). The other has 2 wires (red, white). The old rose has a terminal just for the white wire but the new bunker does not. So what shall I do with the white wire?


texts: Can I just cut this part of the door frame out and replace it?

texts: I finally hung these doors I found at a second hand store. I am a total amateur so please hold back your giggles. No need to explain how this happened, it was a dumb DIY idea. I just need a fix in terms less technical.  Is there a way to cut this out and just replace the damaged wood?


texts: How do I hang a pot rack in a plaster ceiling?

texts:
I am trying to hang a pot rack, and my house is all plaster walls. I have an electronic stud finder but the places it is telling me that studs exist don't seem to be correct - test nails have gone through about 1/2 inch of solid before pushing the rest of the way in.

My plan is to find a joist, and either screw into it or run a 1x2 between 2 joist and screw into that. Is this the right approach, and if so how do I find the joists?

Update: I went back at it with the stud finder, getting inconsistent results.  Tried bucky balls (the only magnet I have around), which didn't locate anything.  I went back to the most reasonable location for the joist and sent in a 1.5 inch test nail, which felt snug most of the way.  I got a longer, wider test nail (2.5 inches) and it cleared everything very easily, but then met with something solid once it was about 2.25 inches in.  I got a longer nail, about 3 inches, and it seems that it is solid wood there.

A) Is it plausible that the joist is that far from the surface of the ceiling?
B) If that is the joist, do I need to do anything special to account for the extra distance?  Am I just trying to find a hook with a 4 inch screw?


texts: Galvanized steel hinge screws with stainless steel hinges: What is the risk of galvanic corrosion?

texts:
The screws in question are zinc-plated hardened steel screws (1 1/4 in) for use with heavy duty fire-rated stainless steel interior door hinges of unspecified grade.

There is a theoretical risk of galvanic corrosion, given that both the zinc plating and carbon steel are anodic to stainless steel. However, I've come across a number of resources that claim that the risk of this is negligible in a typical mild-moderate-humidity urban interior environment.

Galvanize It!: Dissimilar Metals

I've seen a number of SS hinges that have BZP screws in them with no visible corrosion.

Given their relative availability, is it worth the extra effort to track down stainless steel screws for stainless steel hinges, or should I just stick to using galvanized steel screws?


texts: Can one circuit trip a GFCI breaker on another circuit with no shared neutral

texts:
I have two circuits in my main breaker panel.
Circuit 1 is on a 2 pole 60amp GFCI breaker. It goes directly outside from the breaker box and does not interact with the house aside from at the main breaker box.
Circuit 2 is a single pole 20amp breaker that feeds lights in the garage.
Some times (not all the time) when I flip a switch to turn on the garage lights (circuit 2), the GFCI breaker on circuit 1 trips.
I have opened all of the light cans and switch box on circuit 2 and everything seems wired correctly.
I have tested all wires on circuit  1 for shorts to ground and shorts between wires. All tested fine.
There is no possibility of the two circuits sharing a neutral on the load side.
How can this be?


texts:
I read a previous question regarding a GFCI outlet and a washing machine, but my issue is slightly different.

I have 2 GFCI outlets in a washroom in the downstairs of my home. One is obviously feeding power to the other, as well as an additional standard outlet (directly) above the washroom in my daughter's nursery.

I first noticed the problem, when I plugged a baby monitor camera in the upstairs standard outlet. The moment I plugged anything in to that outlet, the GFCI downstairs would trip.

This was the first time that GFCI had tripped since I bought the home 5 years ago.
I changed the upstairs outlet, and it worked just fine, when I would plug something in.

  "Daddy fixed it! He's obviously a master electrician!!"

Not so much.

Now, when we would run the washing machine prior to this whole charade, there was never any issue. I changed the upstairs outlet, and now (not every time, or at any particular point of a wash cycle) when we use the washing machine, it trips the GFCI outlet (the main, obviously).


texts: Concrete over existing concrete in ground

texts: I have a garden fence post which has some concrete on the post end in ground - had to push fence up as was tilting and now want to pour new concrete over the remaining old concrete in the ground - I have dug around it - washed it all down to make sure the old concrete is clean - will my new rapid concrete stick to this in order to keep fence erect?


texts: Use Rivets for old corrugated Metal Roof

texts:
I have an old barn with an rusty corrugated roof. The rafters are pretty rotten and the corrugated sheets come apart and I have slow leaks. The roof is nailed and some of the nails have worked their way out.
My plan is to hammer the nails back in (where they still would work) and use rivets to rivet the sheets together on the seems to tide me over until I have time to repair the rafters.
I am wondering if that is a good idea and if rivets are actually water tight or how I can make them watertight and if there are special metal roofing rivets. Any better suggestions?
Easy to see where the sheets are lifted at the seams.


texts:
I'm looking to make a desk from some solid oak, and want something that will last me a long time. I was wondering if such a piece of wood can be 'renewed' over time by say sanding to strip the stain and applying new stain ( of potentially a different shade? ), or say I screw some legs in and wish to change them, is filling the old screw holes a possibility that won't be too unsightly / compromise the future potential of it?
I'd prefer this to say buying a cheap desk, and then throwing it away if my room changes and buying a new one.
Whilst on this topic, if it is possible ( and sensible ) to do such a thing, what tools should be invested in? ( A band saw isn't really an option, but I was thinking electric jigsaw and orbit sander? )


texts: Will the existing wiring work with the new thermostat?

texts:
I am looking to upgrade my line voltage thermostat from a Dimplex mechanical thermostat to a Honeywell digital thermostat. Both thermostat has 2 wires on its back. Would the new thermostat work if I connect it the exact same way that I connected the old thermostat?

The current dimplex thermostate https://www.dimplex.com/en/electric_heating/thermostats_controls/products/ts_td/line_voltage_thermostats

Here's the one I want to upgrade to
https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/non-programmable-thermostat-line-volt-baseboard-rlv3150a1004.htm#

I couldn't find a manual for the rlv3150, but there is one for rlv3120 https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/images/pdf/RLV3120-Owners-Manual.pdf

My gang box has 6 wires (not counting the bare copper wires). 2 wires each coming from 3 holes -- two holes near the top and 1 hole near the bottom.

Other notes

Thermostat controls electric baseboard heaters, no fan
240V - my electric panel has 2 linked switches for the baseboard heaters
Each baseboard heater uses 1500W or less
All the red wires from the gang box are connected together
The two black wires that are connected together are from the top two holes
The existing thermostat does not seem to be connected to the ground? The tiny copper wire on the bottom screw is cut off and not connected to anything.


texts: How do I know when to switch to a finer grit when polishing marble?

texts:
I am polishing a marble shelf with pads impregnated with a resin containing diamond powder (it has some advantages over sandpaper, but otherwise works in a similar way). I used grit 50 to remove scratches and stopped when I couldn't see any more scratches.

Then I use grit 100, 200, 400, 800 (maybe more) to get a nice polish. But it's hard to tell the difference before and after grit 400 (for instance) by touching or looking. How do I tell I've spent enough time with this grit and I should switch to the next, finer one (in this example, grit 800)?

The final step will be a sealer.


texts: Does siphoning through a garden hose to a basement make sense?

texts:
I'd like to drain some rainwater sitting on an in-ground pool cover. I siphoned the first few inches quite easily with one end at the street level—which, luckily, is a little lower than both the front- and the back- yards—and the other in the pool.

That still left me with a few more inches. Had I had a rain chute right in front of the house, I would have just dangled the garden hose in a little and continued the drainage. That makes me wonder. What is to stop me from simply taking the garden hose through a window and down to the sink in the basement? I'd keep in eye that there are no microscopic holes in the hose, and I'd be sitting next to the sink in the basement for the 2-3 hours that the task will take to make sure I don't end up with a flooding.

All in all it's an entirely passive method, but my gut feeling tells me it's irrational to take a garden hose, even one carrying water passively, into the house. What am I missing?


texts: Does code allow for in-wall mounting of low voltage transformers?

texts:
I am asking if NEC code permits for in-wall (gang box) mounting of low-voltage transformers and power supples, and if so do these product have a name or term?

My use case is low-voltage electronics mounted to drywall: a small car amplifier, an Arduino, Raspberry pi, some 12v LED strips, powering car-type DC accessories.  I am looking to hide as much wiring as possible.

I realize you can't dissipate unlimited heat in the wall. 55 watts - the Class 2 limit - comes out to 12v 5.5A if I did the math right and that's easily enough power.

As examples of failed terms I tried: "doorbell transformers 1 gang" and "in-wall Power over Ethernet supply". We've all seen the 4-port USB 1-gang devices - I want that for 12v.

Please do not answer with specific products/links. I am asking if these things EXIST and whether I have been calling them the wrong name. I have already posed this question before but it was deleted over the holidays (reason: "no shopping for links") so to avoid that experience again I need this strongly worded disclaimer. :-) Thanks all!

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/180414/does-anyone-make-a-12v-in-wall-gangable-power-supply-like-the-usb-ones


texts: How can I mount a speaker on the ceiling?

texts:
I want to this heavy bookshelf speaker on my ceiling as a center-channel, preferably horizontally, as it's above my projection screen.  I want to angle it roughly 20 degrees downward so that it's properly aimed at a listener sitting on a couch about ten feet away.  It's 11 x 8.2 x 14.8 inches ; 16.1 pounds.

It has no bracket mounting holes, and I'd prefer not to screw into the cabinet, but will do so if necessary.  Wall mounted brackets are not going to work, because the screen is in front of a bay window.


texts: How to install ceiling lights in old houses

texts:
My house is quite old and I'm having trouble installing ceiling lights. Due to the age of the building, proper light fittings (e.g. where I can screw in a light bracket) were never installed. Instead, many rooms have the wire sticking out of the plaster and some kind of metal tube which allows you to hook things on. This works for lights like chandeliers which have hooks, but many lights on the market don't.

My questions are:

Are hook-based lights common? Can they be retro-fitted to fit onto a hook?
Looking at the photos below, is there an easy way to install a fixture which would allow screw-based ceiling lights to be installed?

I know there must be studs either side of each light, but since this is a rented property, I don't want to be drilling holes to find out. Plus, as you can see, even if I were to find a stud and drill in, I'd need some kind of light fitting that's big enough to fit over the metal pole. Any tips or advice?


texts: Is there a lifetime failure count for a breaker?

texts:
I have an external cutoff for my air conditioner that has two physical fuses (TR-50's, time delay 50 amps) outside.  This is between the condenser unit and the main power panel, where it is protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker.

An electrician is coming to replace the cutoff (containing fuses) with a simple lever cutoff.

In discussing this he said that a circuit breaker should not be allowed to trip more than 4 or 5 times before being replaced.

That struck me as odd.  I have never experienced a need to replace a breaker, and some in my house due to stupid wiring patterns (a plug we use for a kettle is on the same circuit as the plug my wife uses for her hair dryer in the washroom) have tripped more often than 5 times.

I am trying to decide if he trying to upsell me, or has a valid point.


texts: What does "1 Gang", "2 Gang", and so forth mean when talking about electrical boxes?

texts:
What does a "1 Gang" mean when talking about electrical boxes?

Example: CARLON 1-Gang Metal Adjustable Electrical Box (Lowes.com)


texts: I was in the shower and water just shut off. The breaker tripped we tried resetting it all it does is hum then its off again. We have no water. What can we do


texts: How should I affix a flat horizontal object to a vertical chain?

texts: I have a wooden plank (like a flat swing seat) and a hanging chain (or two, like a swing). Instead of screwing an eye into the plank I want the chain to continue downwards through a hole in the plank, so that its height on the chain can be adjusted and other things can hang farther down the chain. Is there hardware designed specifically for this purpose, or a good combination of common hardware to accomplish this?


texts: My furnace has a C - common wire but air conditioner uses it - how to hook up smart thermostat?

texts:
I bought an ecobee3 smart thermostat which requires the C wire.  At my furnace there is no circuit board but there was a diagram and I was able to locate the C - common wire, but it seems to be used by my air conditioner which is outside.  I was able to run a wire up to my thermostat to connect the C wire.  When I have the A/C and the Thermostat on the same C wire the A/C kicks in all the time.  I had to unplug the A/C unit from the common wire and just leave the thermostat for now and it works fine for heat.

How do I get around this problem?  why can't the common wire be used for both the a/c and the thermostat at the same time?

furnace model: ruud ubhc-17j14sfa


texts: Garbage disposal always on when plugged in (sparks seen on outlet at every connection)

texts:
I had to replace my leaking faucet yesterday.  In the process, a handyman came to help extract the undermount ring under the faucet, as it was severely stuck, and could not be twisted out after the screws were removed.  The previous installer applied pipe dope on it, which made it horribly impossible to twist the ring out.
I did unplug the connections for the garbage disposal and the dish washer before the old faucet removal and new faucet installation.
The handyman took hours to remove the ring with all sorts of tools.
He left after he removed the ring and removed the entire old faucet.
After I installed the new faucet, I plugged in the connection for my garbage disposal.
There’re sparks on the outlet every time I try to connect the garbage disposal, and the garbage disposal keeps running.  Also, the switch to turn the garbage disposal on and off stopped working.
Prior to the faucet removal and installation, my garbage disposal was working fine.
Please kindly advise.  Many thanks!


texts: How easy is it to run coax cable with the given configuration?

texts:
I am about to hook up a cable box, and the current configuration of the television and existing coax junction box have me scratching my head a little bit.

Please refer to the below picture of what I mean.  I have my TV mounted above the fireplace, and the interesting thing is that behind the TV on the fireplace is an empty junction box.  There appears to be a "laced line/string" from this junction box to an identical junction box closer to the floor on the right hand side.  And then on the other side of the stud from the empty floor junction box, there's a coax junction box.

What exactly was the builder's intention here?  I'm guessing the connected empty junction boxes are a guided tunnel to easily run coax?  But on the floor how would I tie that bottom coax into the existing coax junction box?

Any ideas here on how to get house coax behind this TV is much appreciated.  I have also included a picture of one of the two identical "empty" junction boxes (really quite confusing what the intentions are here).

Thank you in advance!


texts: Replacing carpet with laminate flooring - can I cover over damaged area?

texts:
I’ve decided to change from carpet (rug) to laminate flooring. There is a spot with some damage, near a vent. The damaged section has about a million nails in it so I want to leave it there.

I was thinking of adding a thin 1/8” ply layer to it which will also bring it up a little and make up a little for the rug that was there. The carpet has got underlay and carpet tack grippers at the edges.

Is this a good idea?


texts:
I have an old wall closet wich has dark brown wooden doors with a little frame for decoration.
Something like this.

I would like to achieve this kind of doors:

With gloss or dark mirror.
The think is that I can remove the frame I told you above, so that the wooden surface would be even.
So I thought that I could buy a dark mirror and somehow glue the mirror to the door.

What do you think?
Also, I would like a solution for the handles of the door.

Thank you for your time!


texts: What is the best way to transition from THHN wiring in exposed conduit to a wall panel inside a wall? The conduit holds wiring for a 120v circuit and a 240v circuit with power outlets. I was going to use a 4x4 junction box to transition through the back of the box into the wall using using romex behind the wall. It is my understanding that you can't put both lines through the same knockout because they are different voltages but not sure how to mount a junction box on sheetrock with two rear knock outs broken out. Seems like a lot of sheetrock would need to be removed to do that. Any ideas welcome.


texts:
I'm building an outdoor kitchen and have to buy the countertops, or at least hire a countertop guy, soon.

Because (a) there is a gas grill so I can't use flammable materials like plywood and (b) it's outside so ply or OSB or MDF (?!) would rot or turn to mush, what, if anything should I use?

The maximum span is 26" between supports. This is over an alcove for a fridge. That area will be supported on three sides but open at the front. If push comes to shove I think I might be able to squeeze in some 2" deep angle iron but I would prefer not to.

Don't mind paying for 1- inch thick slab but obviously I don't want to spend hundreds on a countertop only for it to give way.

One idea I had was cement backer board.

Thoughts anyone?


texts: Installing short 18"- 24" threaded black pipe for lp gas line in wall

texts: Is it ok to run short 18"-24" threaded pieces of black gas pipe in the wall horizontally done by a licensed plumber so it goes through the 2x6 studs


texts: mortice lock that can be opened by turning the doorhandle either way?

texts:
We have a number of doors between rooms on which my partner would like to have traditional porcelain knobs instead of modern handles. Replacing the handles is not an issue, but these doors have (basic) mortice locking mechanisms inside. Having known the tubular locks in Canada that can be opened (unlatched) by turning the knob either way I know I'll be annoyed by the fact our doors won't open that way (depending on which hand I'll be using, etc).
I see no technical reason why mortice locks couldn't work this way, but I don't even really know what to search for. Can anyone help with that - if possible even by giving me some French search terms (given that's where I live)?
Replacing the mechanisms with tubular locks would be an option, but they'd have to be drop-in replacements that don't leave gaping holes in the side of the door, and they'll have to accept the knobs my wife already bought (which fit on the usual square metal bar that runs through the lock). Requirements that can be resumed as "the wife shouldn't be able to notice a difference" ;)
Thanks in advance!


texts: What do I need to do to change from Halogen to LED?

texts:
I want to update a few rooms in my house from halogen to LED light. The fittings I already have are for the MR 16 style (2 pins). Having the ability to dim the lights is not important.

I found information here and online but I see suggestions of different circuits (rectifier circuit) or LED controllers.

Now I'm a complete novice, and a Google of either term brings up wiring drawings or ways to perform a light show.

My results did finally lead me to a choice of 2 things so my first question, what would I need, either LED Constant Voltage Drive or an LED Constant Current Driver

And my second question is, do I need one of these per LED bulb?


texts: Is it possible to use LED lamps in ceiling r80 eyeball fittings

texts:
I have a pair of eyeball style R80 100w fittings in my kitchen. These are horribly inefficient, so I recently tried replacing one of the bulbs with an 18w LED lamp (a LEDLite branded one from TLC direct) The light output was great, but the lamp lasted 4 days before it spluttered and died.

Inspection of the failed lamp revealed it was very hot, I therefore assume it overheated and that is what killed it.

Is it just not possible for an LED lamp to work in this kind of fitting, or is there something else I can try?


texts: Can I hook up under-sink water filter to sprayer outlet on faucet?

texts:
I installed a new single-handle kitchen faucet with a sprayer. Is it possible to replace the sprayer with a water filter (I have only one hole on the side in the sink)?

Specifically, would it work to connect an under-sink water filter inlet line to the faucet's sprayer outlet? That is, as opposed to connecting the filter inlet to the main cold water inlet (via a T connector).

Reason: I want to avoid touching the connections between the inlet copper pipes and the "tubes" that go to the faucet, if possible.


texts: How can I get the drain apparatus out of a pedestal wash basin?

texts:
I have successfully replaced two out of the three wash basin faucets in my house so far, but this one has me stumped:

As you can see from the picture, it's a pretty run-of-the-mill pedestal wash basin.  However, what this picture doesn't quite-so-adequately convey is how little clearance there is behind the pedestal to get a wrench in to drop the drain pipe:

I'm hoping someone has some suggestions on how I can get a vise grip or an adjustable wrench behind this area?  The clearance is rather small and I don't think they make adjustable wrenches small enough but with big enough mouths to properly twist a trap nut.


texts: Wiring power cord Adapter to connect a Round 3-prong female generator plug to a round 4-prong Gen Trans Switch

texts:
We live in a rural area where electrical service from the local utility is sometimes interrupted for a few/several days by winter storms - accompanied by high winds - that blow down large evergreen trees across electrical transmission lines.

So, (to ensure we have residential electrical power during an extended power outage) we have two "paired" Honda EU2000i portable gas generators.  They’re both small, red and quiet.  We have a small “pairing” cord set from Honda that allows us to connect two of these generators together (aka “pair” them) for approximately twice the output amps.

The Honda generators have a round 3-prong female receptacle/plug on the face of the generator to accept a round 3-prong male plug from a power cord (to connect the generator power to a load).

We also have a 30 amp Honda "Gen Tran" - Generator Transfer Switch that has been professionally installed to the breaker box in the garage (for the house).
The 30 amp Gen Tran Switch (part # 32310-189006) has 10 circuits, and a male 4-prong locking plug power inlet to receive the female end of a 4-prong power cord that is connected to a generator power supply.

Note: Each circuit on the Gen Tran Switch must be individually, manually moved from “Line” to “Off,” and then to “Generator Power,” in order to safely transfer generator power to a specific electrical circuit in the house without back-charging the line coming into the house from the utility pole.  Then, when utility power is restored, each circuit powered by the generator must be individually, manually switched back to “off,” and then to “line.”

Here’s the challenge/question, and it involves wiring/creating an adapter to allow the round 3-prong female generator outlet to be connected to the 4-wire power cord that plugs into the Gen Tran Switch:

We have a “4 wire, 10 gauge, 25’ power cord” (purchased from Home Depot) to connect the "paired" generators to the Gen Tran Switch.
The respective female/male ends of this power cord are both round 4-prong, and wired as follows
•   Green       “Ground”
•   Red         “Y”
•   Black       “X”
•   White       “W”

The round 4-prong female end of the power cord plugs into the male prongs on the face of the Gen Tran Switch just fine, but the 4-prong male end of the power cord won’t plug into the round 3-prong female receptacle on the generator.

So, I will need to wire/build an adapter (with a Round 4-prong FEMALE plug on one end, and a Round 3-prong MALE plug on the other end) in order to be able to connect the "paired" generators the Gen Tran Switch. I plan to use an 18" piece of 10 gauge 4-wire, and two locking plugs, to create the adapter.

On the adapter, how should the 4-wires be connected to the 3 terminals for the wires on the male end of the adapter?  My un-informed layman’s approach would be to either:

A.  Amputate the green wire from the 3-prong male plug (that will be plugged into the generator) altogether,
or alternatively to
B.  Wire the Green Ground wire and White neutral wire together...

... And then, in either case, to wire the remaining “Y” to “Y” and “X” to “X” for both ends of the adapter.

Thoughts or recommendations?


texts: What type of insulation do i need to replace in my AC air vent registers?

texts:
We noticed we had mold on our register grills due to one of our AC unit not draining anymore in the attic (water was ponding in the pan); we had a remediation company come out and they told us we needed to change the one unit and all the ducts; then we had to clean the ducts on the second unit and change the insulation in the vent registers; not cheap, to say the least.
we ended up replacing the entire unit and all the ducts attached to that unit and we did the duct cleaning on the other unit. But we decided to replace the insulation on the vent registers ourselves. Unfortunately, to find out that we don't know where to find this type of insulation (3" wide); we googled and researched, but not much info on what type of insulation we need to use and where to find it.
I went to an AC supply store and was told to get some "black" insulation (soft on one side with a harder film/felt on the other). The previous insulation was yellow with paper on one side. does anybody know if any insulation can be used for that purpose ? can this "black" insulation be used ?
any input would be appreciated.


texts: Doorway transition between hardwood and floating bamboo with different heights

texts: We have hardwood in our whole main level except for a study that had carpet.  I've pulled up the carpet and have been replacing it with floating click bamboo.  I'm trying to figure out what to do with the transition through the doorway to the "traditional" nailed hardwood.  I know that floating bamboo needs to have room for expansion, which means a half inch gap between the wood and any wall or other object and it looks like this is often solved at doorways with a T molding between the two types of flooring.  The challenge I face is that the bamboo is about three eights of an inch lower than the hardwood floor and (from what I understand, which could be wrong), T molding works when both sides of the transition are the same height.  I'd love any guidance, feedback, advice on how to deal with a transition that has slightly different heights.  Thank you!!!


texts: Going from conduit to NM in new framed wall (commercial)

texts:
I'm framing up an office inside a warehouse using 2x4 lumber. There is a framed wall against an existing side wall of the warehouse. Along the existing wall is conduit and two boxes with receptacles. I was going to remove the entire thing, but one of these boxes is also a junction box that leads to the lighting. I need to remove at least one of the boxes (because it's in the way of a stud), and so I'd like to run new wire through the new framed wall (NM).

However, I'm not sure how to transition (any of) the wiring from the panel at the back wall (which will not have a new framed wall around it) to the new framed walls.

The run to the lighting connects here:

Here you can see where the conduit continues to the panel, and the box that needs to be removed. I need to build a last framed wall section in that corner, but the conduit is in the way (I don't want to notch the studs, particularly the last stud).

How can I run NM through the studs and properly transition to connect to the panel?

Note: as I understand it, I can't have receptacles in the wall like that, so I'll be removing it and replacing the junction box with a cover. But it's still not accessible once drywalled, so I'm not sure if that's to code or not.


texts: What's the normal duty cycle of a refrigerator compressor?

texts:
I recently bought a house and it came with a fridge. It's a GE model GSH25JSXSS  side by side. I think it's fairly new because the seller's agent told the seller to replace her appliances with stainless steel ones so it will show better.
Anyway, it works, keeps food cold and ice frozen, but I find the compressor is on an awful lot of the time.

I figure maybe nowadays the compressors are really low power consuming (I don't see the lights dim when the compressor starts up) so they run longer. Is this the case or is there something wrong with my fridge? I don't see any leaks in the door seam with the frame. Not sure what else it could be.


texts: How do I cut a straight line in an installed wood floor for a flush mount HVAC vent?

texts:
At some point a previous owner installed hardwood flooring in my house.  Nice.  They did not however make a hole for the front entryway heating vent.  The duct and duct outlet exists in the crawlspace and now I would like to put the vent there.  My floors are hickory and all the other floor vents are "flush mount".

I can easily find the vent location in the floor, by drilling up at the four corners of the duct vent outlet in the crawlspace below.  I bought the appropriate sized hickory flush mount vent but now realize that I need to cut an awfully straight line, in order to flush mount this cleanly in the floor.

How do I do this?

So that the vent will look right, the cuts need to be exact, straight and the corners square.  There are at least these problems:

1) One cut needs to be close to the wall, within 2 inches.  This makes it difficult to get a guide or even a cutting tool in there.  I can remove the quarter round kick molding, and the other molding behind that off, for a little more space, but that doesn't make that much extra space.  It would be a little problematic to remove the main molding.
2) The corners of the cuts need to be square and not extend into the surrounding floor.  Hand cut the corners, maybe?!

Somewhat related: Is it possible to install flush mount floor vents in a laminate wood floor?


texts: Buying 110V power tools for my father in law to take back to 220v Russia

texts:
My wife's mom and dad are here from Russia.  We'd like to buy him a dremel tool, a cordless drill, and a 1/4 sheet palm sander for his birthday to take back.  I know the cordless drill is not a problem for a converter since it's a battery charger.  The dremel tool probably is not either.  But what about the 1/4 sheet palm sander.  Is there any way to convert the tools once he gets there?  I'm looking for the most sensible and durable way.

Also, he's kind of stubborn and there's really no way to give a "gift coupon" to take to Russia.  It doesn't really work that way over there :)  And as said, he'd be too stubborn to use it.  Thanks.


texts: How do you make a light switch that will cut power one with a one minute delay, but give power instantly when turned on?

texts:
I want to install a fan in the bathroom that works in conjunction with the light switch and stays on one minute after being turned off.

How do I pull this off in my bathroom renovation project?


texts: What's the best method and product to use for patching cracks in plaster walls?

texts:
I have a 100+ year old house and while it's quite structurally sound there's been some settling over the years, leading to small cracks in the old plaster around the house.

I hired a professional to take care of some big cracks in the dinning and living room. But now I want to tackle the upstairs bedrooms myself. What is the best method for repairing these cracks in plaster (not drywall)? What products do you recommend for using in this project?


texts:
So I just got this boat.  It has a painted plywood roof, but it's been neglected for many years, and the paint has begun to chip/peel.  Parts of the roof are a bit rotten, and most of it is damp when I chip off the paint.  Overall though, the roof seems good enough to be worth saving - it should be good so long as noone goes jumping around on it.

So, the question: I figure before painting over it it has to dry - I don't want to seal the moisture in for it to rot some more.  In order to dry it, do I need to remove ALL the old paint?  Some of it's still good, and it'd take a lot more work and paint if I did that.  Or is it at all reasonably to think the wood will dry out through the chipped away parts (which are at most 2 feet away from painted over parts).

I guess I'm just asking: How fast does moisture absorb through wood?


texts: Door newly out of plane - just winter weather or bad framing?

texts: My front door is out of plane - the top left corner does not sit completely in the frame. The funny thing is this is brand new. We've lived in the house for two years and it just started this winter. That makes me wonder - is this something where I should be readjusting the hinges as is typically the case with out of plane doors, or is this something that's a result of winter weather that will resolve itself in a couple weeks? I don't want to change the hinges and then have it be too tight when the spring comes!


texts: Warm/Hot Water Sediment Housing and filters

texts:
I need a sediment filter after the water heater. There is a clear one made of
Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. I read in wiki this can get up to 80 degree Celsius.

But I learnt there are separate sediment housing for warm/hot water.

Its made of glass-reinforced nylon base.
I like the clear one so I can see how dirty the filter is. Can you tell how dirty it is by merely looking? This is the advantage of the clear housing.
If I'd get the red one. I can't see the filters.
What chemicals could be release by either? I guess they both don't have BPA. Since both can handle 80 degree celsius. What is the advantage of the red one?


texts: What can I do to mitigate radon while waiting for a full radon mitigation system?

texts:
Before people jump all over me, let me state; I am NOT trying to fool a test! We already had the tests done 2 days ago and it came back at 6.8 pCi/L, which is high enough to cause concern. The only reason we did this test is because my wife and I work out of our home with basement offices and pretty much live down there a good 16 hours a day. We've had health issues for the last 2 out of the 3 years we've lived in this house. I won't go into details as my question is simply about mitigation.

I live in Aurora CO and there is a LOT of radon issues here. The mitigation places are all backed up weeks / months behind. I'm not willing to be exposed to radon levels like this even one more day.

I have just the regular 1960s basement window wells. Should I put fans in there in a couple of rooms? Is it better to suck air in from outside or force it out from inside? Is this possibly going to make the radon worse until I get the mitigation installed or better? Also, any advice in selecting a good mitigation installer or is it pretty much just run of the mill common sense? The places i'm looking at all do follow-up tests and grantees.

Further information: We had the house tested for mold and other allergens. Nothing there. Not surprising since it's Colorado.


texts: Can I change the fire rating of 1/2 inch drywall?

texts:
I currently have 1/2 drywall on my wall sepating the garage, which is now an accesory apartment. The house was built in 1975.
 Code says it must be 5/8. It is not possible to take everthing down to add more drywall. Is there another way to increase the fire rating, by either a product I paint on or spray on?

I am getting ready for an inspection, just looking at other options I can run by the inspector if he doesn't like what I have.
They tell me they are trying to work with me to get this apartment passed and legal. Both sides of the wall in question have 1/2 inch drywall.


texts: How to and how much to clean the HEPA filter?

texts:
I'm trying to clean this HEPA filter from my vacuum cleaner by washing* it and even though I've managed to get most of the dirtiness out, there's still some left sticking to the corners between each layer.

I can't reach there without a pointy object and I'm afraid of puncturing the sheet.

Do I need to clean that much? (how much suction do I lose if I don't)
What's a safe way to do so?

*I'm reading in some places that I shouldn't wash it, but the manual that came with my cleaner specifically told me to wash it. (and then dry)


texts:
I am renting an Airbnb in South America.  To kill cockroaches, the owner put a fine layer of white powder (from internet searches, I believe this is either borax or diatomaceous earth) on the floor yesterday morning.  It is hot, so I always run a fan on high (over my bed) which probably kicks up some of that powder.
I woke up this morning with a dry mouth, throat, and nose, so am concluding that this is due to my breathing in the powder.  When I blew my nose, I could even see dried blood.  There seems to be a chalky taste in my mouth too, but that might be psychological.
By the way, I have seen maybe 10 dead cockroaches, so I know the powder is working.
From a quick blow test, this powder did not lift up from the ground easily (I think baby powder lifts much more easily), so maybe I did not breathe in very much.  The white particulate's size and weight might be enough to keep it on the ground.
Is it generally considered bad to use a fan in a room with this powder treatment?
I am thinking to switch off the fan, let any dust settle for an hour, and then mop my entire floor before sleeping tonight.
In hindsight, I think I should have refused this treatment though I wasn't really given the option.  If anyone has medical studies or anecdotes about the health effects in my case, can you please reference them?  I'm trying to stay neutral, but if it's well-known that this is hazardous, I want to let the owner know.


texts: What should I look for in a diamond blade?

texts:
I'm considering a 7" diamond blade for a circular saw, to be used to cut cement type pavers and short runs of concrete (driveway/sidewalk).

Some blade designs are segmented/slotted, some not. Prices vary widely. What criteria differentiate the available models?


texts: Suggestions for preventing water from building on a shower window that is below shoulder level?

texts:
Location: California | United States

Hello all,

I have a window near my bath/shower that is slightly below shoulder level (which is now a violation of code in my area but got grandfathered in with the old house).  We're planning to renovate the bathroom in the next year or two but in the meantime, are there any suggestions for preventing water from building up on the window base? Perhaps a guard, plate, or curtain?

-M


texts: Wiring a pole barn that is 750' from my main power box

texts: I have a barn that is 750' from my main panel. I would like to run power down to it myself because the power company quoted some crazy high prices. I plan on burying the wire and would like to know what size wire I should go with or if it is too far to do. Any help would be appreciated. The barn is going to have lights, some outlets and maybe a 220 outlet or two in case I need to power a welder from time to time, but thats about it. I would rather go bigger in case I need to expand in the future.


texts: What is the best way to hang a heavy dynamic weight from a flat ceiling with joists?

texts: I want to hang something like http://www.skychairs.com/ or similar in my living room. If the joists were exposed I would mount a beam between two of them and hang over or through that. However, when the joists are hidden behind drywall or sheetrock or other ceiling material this doesn't seem to be an option. Putting an eye screw into the middle of a joist might be ideal, but scares me in a few ways (strength of the screw, weakening the joist, unscrewing over time, etc). What is the best way to approach this problem?


texts: I have a 40 amp circuit.  Can I use 2x10AWG wire for each conductor instead of 1x8AWG?


texts:
I live in an apartment wherein one of the rooms the light switch is outside of the room, which is annoying. I would like to add 2 light switches inside the room that would be used instead of the one outside and would turn on and off the lights.

In the ceiling, I have 2 240V compact fluorescent lights that are wired in series. One thing is that I'm looking for a solution that is comprised of switches mounted on the wall, rather than a remote controller that is moved around.

What product would you suggest me to buy and use for this?


texts:
A cabinet door in my kitchen makes a loud annoying "cracking" noise when I open and close it and I'm curious if this is something that I can fix simply by adjusting the adjustment screws or if there is actually something wrong with the hinge and it needs to be replaced.  I've tried slowly and meticulously adjusting the different adjustment screws to no avail.  Hoping that somoene else has come across this and can offer me some advice

Video with sound
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kgv5herrklx4kl6/Video%20Oct%2009%2C%209%2024%2043%20PM.mov?dl=0

Photo of the hinge
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0jjdgb91qyxchlh/Photo%20Oct%2009%2C%209%2025%2016%20PM.jpg?dl=0

Thanks!


texts: How do I extend a length of aluminum flex vent hose?

texts:
I'm replacing a bathroom ceiling fan, and need to add a short extension (approximately 18") to the length of the existing vent hose.  The existing hose is 4" aluminum flex.

I have a couple questions.  First, would it be acceptable to use the softer foil flex for the extension?  The added flexibility would be nice during installation, and since it is a fan vent and not a dryer vent I assume the fire risk isn't an issue.

Secondly, what's the best way to attach and seal the connection?  Screws, tape, hose clamp, etc?  Ideally it would be something that I could install in tight quarters to avoid having to open another section of drywall--although I'd definetely prefer a good connection over the installation convenience.


texts: How to choose hole sizes when building a sorting sieve?

texts:
I'm planning to build a sorting sieve out of a set of plastic containers with holes drilled in the bottom.   The container with the largest holes will be on top and the one with the smallest holes will be on the bottom.    This will allow items to filter down until they can't fall through the holes anymore.  It should effectively sort items by size when I pour the items in the top and shake the entire stack.

Since I haven't found a reasonably priced set of sorting sieves, I'm planning to build my own. I'm planning to use Snapware containers that lock together and drill the holes with spade bits.

In general how should I choose the hole size?   Obviously I want it to be between the sizes of objects I'm sorting.   I fear:

That if the holes are almost as large as the large objects, the larger objects will get stuck in the holes and block them
If the holes are too close to the size of the smaller objects, it will take too much shaking for them to fall through.

I think my choices are:

Split the difference and use a hole size as close to halfway inbetween the object sizes
Use a hole size closer to the size of the larger object, but small enough that they won't get stuck in the hole.    How much smaller (percentage wise) would that need to be?

I have several application of this in mind. I want to try sorting screws, bolts, washers, Lego bricks, and US coins. Let me illustrate with the sizes of US coins.   Here are the coin sizes and possible drill bit sizes listed inbetween:

0.955" Quarter

24mm (0.945")
15/16" (0.938")
23mm (0.906")
7/8" (0.875")
22mm (0.866")

0.835" Nickel

22mm (0.866")
21mm (0.827")
13/16" (0.813")
20mm (0.717")

0.750" Penny

18mm (0.748")
17mm (0.709")

0.705" Dime

I'm leaning towards 15/16" for sorting nickels from quarters and for 13/16" for sorting pennies from nickels.  However between pennies and dimes I have a lot less choice.   Is the 18mm too large a hole and the pennies would get stuck?  Is the 17mm too small a hole and the dimes wouldn't fall through easily?  They also sell 18.5mm drill bits, but they are comparatively expensive items compared to less specialty sizes.


texts: I just installed a new Honeywell WiFi thermostat and my heat pump only blows hot air on heat and cool mode.


texts: How much power should a ductless A/C system use while "off"?

texts:
I (with the help of an HVAC professional) installed a ductless, split system. It's a 24,000 BTU, single head system. What surprised me is how much energy (relative to everything else in the house) it uses while in the off/stand-by mode.

It's on a dedicated circuit, and I calculated using my Aeotec Home Energy Monitor that it's continuously using about 130 W with no visible operation. The head/air handler is "off", no noise from the compressor, compressor fan is not moving, etc.

Is this common for systems to use this much energy in stand-by or does it indicate something may be wrong with the wiring or connections?

Additional notes:

My system doesn't make an off/standby distinction. There is just an off button on the remote. I use the terms interchangeably b/c while it is "off" it is still drawing 130 W of power.
The home energy monitor uses clamps (one on each incoming 120V main line). I know it's ~ 130 W by monitoring the usage for 5 min, throwing the 2 pole breaker for the A/C, calculating the diff, and then turning it back on to verify. It appears to be fairly accurate for other circuits that I've tested (e.g. ~15 W for an LED lamp, < 1 W for an in-panel surge protector, ~60-70 W for the fridge, spikes +1000 W for the microwave, etc.)


texts: Water heater anode rod replacement, teflon tape or no?

texts:
For replacing an anode rod in a residential water heater, there seems to be some conflicting opinions regarding using teflon tape to prevent leaks. The rod manufacturer's instructions say to use it. Some people say to not use it as it prevents making a good electrical contact between the metals. Others say use it, the teflon tape will be cut by the bolt threads thus you will get an electrical contact.

What should I do? For the people not using teflon tape, how are you preventing water leaks?


texts: Do I need to fill the gap of a wide tv mount hole?

texts:
First time mounting a TV here. The Mounting Screw Holes at the back of my TV is wider than the M6 screw that it takes. I was wondering if I need to fill the gap with a spacer or something else when mounting the brackets. Any help will be appreciated.

This is how it looks:


texts: How should I dispose of the vinyl shed walls?

texts: I have disassembled an old vinyl shed and removed all the metal, etc.  Now I need to know how and where to dispose of the vinyl walls?


texts: Is this slightly exposed wire dangerous?

texts:
I accidentally cut through the insulation on this cable earlier with a small metal saw and noticed that part of the wire is now exposed. I don't know what the wire is actually for; it runs inside a cupboard and up towards the ceiling and out into the direction of my en suite bathroom, then disappears.

Is this potentially dangerous or would covering it with electrical tape be fine? As I didn't get an electric shock when I cut through it, I'm guessing that the bit showing isn't part of the live wire? Any help much appreciated.


texts: What kind of bathroom tile is this, and what kind of drill bit does it require?

texts: I believe ceramic and porcelain tiles are the most common, but this looks like it might be some kind of polished stone. Will a carbide bit work on this tile, or does it require a diamond-tipped bit?


texts: Inner deck guardrail posts and deck framing connectors

texts:
I am mounting the deck guard rail posts inside the frame before adding the decking.  I have used deck framing connection hardware as suggested in the Simpson Strong-Tie deck connection guide.
One thing not clear to me is what to do when the post and connection hardware (e.g., joist hanger or angle bracket) interfere with each other? Do you space out the post to clear the hardware or do you remove the hardware so you get a flush fit, relying on the carriage bolts, blocking and tension ties to keep the frame together. This detail seems to be missing from all the online tutorials, diagrams etc.
Example: Simpson Strong-tie Inner Guardrails via Timber Screws with Blocking
For example, in the aforementioned, they showed one method for internally attaching guardrail posts using timber screws (instead of carriage bolts) and blocking, but they don't show any connection hardware such as joist hangers or a framing angle in the corner. The figure indicates that connecting hardware isn't shown, but they don't indicate either whether all other hardware is required, and how you get a flush fit with the post if the hardware is in place.

Example: Lowe's Inner Guardrails with Carriage Bolts and Blocking
Lowe's also has some detailed instructions using more traditional carriage bolts, but with blocking and tension ties (likely reflecting newer building methods coming out of the Virginia Tech study).
Their corner blocking layout does not appear to include an framing angle bracket in the corner due to how flush the post is (below).  Does this imply the carriage bolts and blocking is enough to ensure structural integrity of the joist framing?

In Lowe's example of inner guardrail mounted on a rim joist, we can see at least half of a joist visible.  Is it a half of a joist hanger?  The toe-nailing slots on the joist hanger would have pushed out the post from the joist, but as you can see the inner guardrail post looks like it is laying fairly flush against the 2x8 joist.  Is that just an optical illusion and the post is offset from the joist?


texts:
Deciding between porcelain 18mm and sandstone 24mm both grey.
The porcelain cost about 1/3 more however if i have to seal the sandstone the cost isnt that different and over time probably works out more. But i have read conflicting literature saying it doesn't need to be sealed!

Extract from here
https://www.turnbullsonline.co.uk/inspiration/faq-i-need-seal-patio-slabs/

Do I need to seal sandstone patio slabs?
Short answer, no! Leading paving manufacturers Marshalls and Stonemarket don’t recommend coatings and sealants for their sandstone paving. Knowing this will save you time and money!
Quality Indian sandstone does not need sealing, so you won't need to seal even the cheapest Marshalls Indian Sandstone Paving.


texts: Where does water in shower plumbing go after a shower?

texts:
I’m trying to debug some funny sounds in my shower (just purchased the house containing the shower) and would like to better understand how the plumbing works.  The shower is a stand-in type with no tub.

I can visibly trace cold and hot water pipes into my shower ceiling and then down into the wall containing the shower valve.  The cold and hot pipes enter the shower valve fitting (which is four feet from the floor).  From there, I assume opening the shower valve lets water flow up into the pipe that supplies the shower head (which is 6.5 feet from the floor).
This is my question.  When I shut off the shower valve, there must still be about 2.5 feet of pipe (this is the pipe that joins the shower valve to the shower head) containing water.  Does that water remain there until the next opening of the valve forces new water into the pipe pushing the old water out through the shower head?

Is there some sort of relief valve that drains that pipe of the water?

Background - After a shower, for about three minutes, I can hear drops somewhere in the wall that contains the shower valve and I am trying to find the source.  I’ve opened up the wall behind the shower and all pipes and fittings are dry.

EDIT: The source of noise was my Culligan filter shower head.  I removed the shower head and the noise disappeared.  Thanks to all for the ideas.


texts: Installing An Outlet In Garage - Unexpected wires?

texts:
So, this may be an easy question, but I've only ever replaced existing outlets before and I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I do anything. Here's the situation:

This is where I want the outlet, but there's a lot more wires here than the other outlets I've replaced. I'm a novice when it comes to outlets and wiring, so I'm not sure how to proceed with this. How should I wire this up? Do I need a certain kind of outlet? Any help would be much appreciated!


texts: Can I add outlets using #14 wire on a circuit with #12 wire and a 60 amp breaker?

texts:
I started to remodel one of my rooms and I have had to look into the wiring, now that I'm adding outlets and switches.

I checked a wire in a room early on and it was 14/2. That's what I decided to go with for the rest of the wiring. After wiring all the new outlets and routing them to their respective existing outlets, I found that they're all 12/2. Not sure why they're all different.

The most unusual issue, the breaker they go to is a 60 amp. Yep, 60. Whole room ties into the furnace.

My question is, can I continue to run the 14/2 wiring into the 12/2 existing outlets, all on a 60 amp breaker? More surprises to come with the house. Thanks!


texts: Furnace limit switch only reading 12 volts, I have 24 volts coming out of transformer

texts: 12 volts at primary limit switch, 24 volts out at transformer 24 volts at c & w terminals when stat calling for heat. furnace will not light, trouble codes call for bad primary/secondary limit switch


texts: In the attached picture, there seems to be an intake vent on the bottom row of cedar shingles, though maybe I'm mistaken about that, as it has a pretty high profile for an under-shingle intake vent.  Can anyone identify what it is, or its manufacturer?


texts: How do I properly seal an exterior door?

texts:
I've recently discovered that rain is getting in around my exterior (front) door and forming a little pool in the frame under the door. I'm assuming I can fix this by adding a seal around the door (which would also help with insulation too). Is this assumption correct, and if so what products would people recommend for the seal?

EDIT: Sorry, I realise my question was ambiguous, or even completely ill-phrased. The gap in question is actually the gap between the door itself and the door frame within which it's hung. So there has to be some gap there, but it appears that the gap I have is too large or something and that is allowing rain in a bit (when it comes at a particular angle). I'll add some photos once it's light outside ;)


texts: How to get sticky residue off plastic-covered furniture?

texts: We have wooden dining chairs whose backs were wrapped in plastic (to protect white tufting) for the past 15 years. We want to remove the plastic now, but the plastic left a sticky residue on the wood. Is there any effective way to clean this residue? The finish is a glossy dark mahogany. Otherwise, we may dump the chairs.


texts:
After a severe rainstorm I noticed the back overflow pipe of our drywell popped out of the ground. I went back and set it back into place but after inspecting the area, I noticed a lot of erosion around both pipes and feel like it’s only a matter of time before this happens again.

I am wondering what the best path forward is? Should I remove the pipes, clean them out, reset them and surround them with dirt and gravel? Or does this call for a professional? If so, who would I call?


texts: This wall is an exterior wall and has 2 layers of flooring, with the wall sitting on top of the floor. I want to remove the flooring and install advantack t&G.I would like to leave the bottom layer an inch or so off the wall, but would like to remove the top layer along the edge of the wall 2x4. Any thoughts on the idea, or tool to use?


texts: Question regarding confusing outlet smart switch install

texts:
I've been recently trying to install 2 new smart switches in place of some older light switches, but I cant for the life of me figure this out.
Here is a picture I drew of the current wiring as I can see it in the box:

There are 2 plugs at the bottom of the stairs, these control 2 different sets of basement lights and are what I'm trying to replace.  There is also another switch at the top of the stairs that controls the set of lights closest to the stairs in the basement.
The smart switches I have are 2x 3-way and 1x 1-way.  My plan was to install the 2 way switches in place of the 2 switches in the basement and possibly use the other 1-way for our bedroom or somewhere else.

I'm not quite sure how to wire this up and I think the additional plug upstairs might be confusing me as well.  I've tried multiple multiple configurations and thought I have identified the traveler plugs and the hot line appropriately using my electrical gear, but I feel there is a gap in my understanding that I'm hoping I can get a hand with.


texts: How do I make exposed wood stairs less squeaky?

texts: I was wondering if it is possible to make exposed wood stairs less squeaky with a layer of foamy/rubbery material between the stringers/frame and stair treads.  Or is there a different solution?


texts: Was my home's dormer flashing installed incorrectly?

texts:
I've lived in this home for two years now. Roof is probably at least 10-15 years old, perhaps 20 years.

We started noticing some water stains on the ceiling soon after moving in. On a closer look, it seemed like the previous owner painted over prior stains to hide them, so this may have been an issue for a long time. It only seems to worsen when we have a very heavy storm.

Fortunately there is a crawl space close to the issue, but unfortunately I can only see a portion of the area where water is seeping in. The area that looks bad is right where the front of the dormer is (window side).

The other dormers on the roof also seem to have the same moisture issue within the crawl space (though not bad enough to cause issues with the ceiling).

When inspecting the issue from the roof side today, the only obvious issue observed was that J channels on the dormer sides were clogged up with dirt and some moss growth (cleared prior to the picture).

Red area in the image shows where we have definite water issues, orange area is unknown (no crawl space access).

All of the roofing guides I've read show that the dormer flashing should have been done differently. The flat portion should be four inches away from the sides (it's at most 2 inches for ours), and the apron should be covered by shingles on the sides (not on top).

Since they did not follow the regulation on the above items, it also makes me suspect other issues that may exist under the roofing. Perhaps the underlayment does not run along the wall of the dormer.


texts: How do I install a generator pass through?

texts: I bought a generator for when the commercial power goes out. Rather than run an extension cord from the generator, and through my window into the house; I want to connect an extension cord from the generator, and plug it into an outside junction box (Female plug). Have the outside junction box tie into an internal junction box, with receptacles so I can plug in another inside extension cord to run to my refrigerator and a few lights. What is needed to make this happen? This would be completely separate from the fuse box.


texts: Inexpensive way of fixing cracked area of concrete parking?

texts:
This is my parking. As you can see, there are sections of the concrete that have cracked. Also, there's soil under the concrete. The parking's pretty narrow, so I don't have too much space between the car door and the concrete wall.
I don't mind leaving it as-is, but I don't want to step in a puddle when it rains. People that I've called to fix it want to replace the whole thing, which is very expensive.
So my question, is there an inexpensive way to fix the are of the concrete in the picture? It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to be functional.
As you can see, the puddle starts where the tires rest after parking the car. But if it rains too much, the puddle will be much bigger and it becomes impossible to get out of my car without stepping into a puddle.


texts: Septic system was designed for 3 bedrooms but we need 4, what are my options?

texts:
We're looking to build an in-law  space and for it to be legal it has to have a bedroom, which means our septic is undersized. The town has our house listed as three bedrooms (It's actually already four bedroom house) even though the tank is 1500G. I guess it has something to do with how fast the water drains?
We'd prefer not to have to replace the septic as that would increase the cost but I'm confused as too why our system can not handle it if our tank is already 1500 gallons.
Could we possibly just upgrade some components to give us that expansion?
We have the original design docs, what should I look for to answer this question?


texts: Black/brown substance from/in cold water

texts: Noticed some dark substance which comes out from faucets. Wonder what it might be and what I should do next.


texts: Best way to fit this dishwasher under the kitchen counter?

texts:
This dishwasher is about a half inch too tall. Cutting a slot into the underside of the counter would solve the problem, and the lip of the washer would hide the cut, but I don't know the best way to actually cut the rectangular chunk out of the material? Hacksaw? Jigsaw? Rotary tool?

Note that the spring and metal brackets on top can both be removed with no ill effects.

EDIT - to address some questions in the comments:

this is a very old home that an acquaintance has just moved into
this is a second-hand dishwasher from the acquaintance's previous residence
obviously we want to make a few changes to the countertop and flooring as possible to get it slid into place


texts: Do all outlets in detached workshop need to be tamper resistant?

texts: Ok, I just failed my inspection.   The inspector made some good catches.  The only thing I question is he said all outlets in the detached workshop need to be tamper resistant.  We are still on the 2014 NEC, and I thought I only needed tamper resistant outlets in the house.  Does the shop really need TR outlets?


texts: What is this pipe called, and how does it work?

texts:
I recently saw a plumbing setup where a 2" pipe was run from a bend in the 4" toilet return.  The 2" pipe bent upwards to meet the floor next to the toilet, where it was capped off with a removable cover.

In case of a clog, apparently the plumber uncaps and pushes air (or water?) through this pipe (or vent? valve?) to purge the clog.

First of all, what is the correct terminology for this apparatus?

And I hope it's not outside of the scope of the question to also ask does this thing function as a vent?

Will it have a one-way valve to prevent the elevated water in the toilet from rushing out when it's uncapped?  (cap is level with the floor next to the toilet)

Here's an ugly sketch of the thing:


texts: Miswired 3-Way Dimmer - Contractor used 14/2 in Traveler. How bad is it?

texts:
We just had our kitchen remodeled and the contractor moved one dimmer switch in a 3-way circuit. Today, when I went to take a look at the moved outlet, I saw a few things that set off some alarms:

There was no ground wire inside the box and the ground wire had been removed off the switch
One of the wires looks like it had been fully wrapped in electrical tape instead of having traditional insulation.

Here's the picture of inside the switch box:

What I'm thinking happened here is that the contractors incorrectly used 14/2 wire instead of 14/3 wire for the traveler.

My questions are:

Did I diagnose this issue correctly (14/2 wire used instead of 14/3)?
How dangerous is this?
Is it up to code or any sort of "common practice"?
What are my options to fix it? Do I need to rewire the switch?

Some additional background:

We had a fully permitted whole-house rewire in 2015 so all the circuits should be up to code as of that time.
We are in CA and have not had our final inspection on the kitchen

Edit:
Here's a picture of the other switch in the 3-way circuit:

Edit 2:
OK, I spent the morning crawling through the attic and trying to figure out exactly what the contractor did. I think they took the 14/3 wire from the non-dimmer switch and fed it into a junction box in our attic. From the junction box they "converted" a 14/2 wire to be a 14/3 and fed it down to the dimmer switch. I created this wiring diagram to summarize it:

Additionally, here is a more detailed picture of the non-dimmer switch:


texts: Using a multimeter to check for problems in electric sockets

texts:
I have a MUT-830 multimeter. I would like to use it to do a basic saftey check of the electric sockets in my  home. Specifically, I want to verify that:

there is grounding,
the resistance is not too high (so that the socket should not get too hot).

How can I do this?


texts: NM cable routing to panel backboard / side of the service panel. Take 2. Any NEC 2017/2020 concerns?

texts:
Going off of my previous question, I wanted to get a confirmation the below is compliant with NEC2017/2020 for connecting NM cable to a  main panel.
I have used a length of 12/2 NM cable to show how I intend to run about 12 of them (using additional multi-cable red fasteners) to the sides of the panel.  The cable isn’t through the knockout, but there will be a proper panel clamp in the final installation.  The first red cable tie (the one at the very bottom) will be within less than 12” of it’s panel clamp attachment.

This is how the joist attachment looks like (top screw missing as it's a mock-up):

This is how the joist and middle attachments look like (not sure if proximity to the heating pipe matters but it won't touch it):

This is how the panel side attachment looks like:

Panel side will be covered with removable plywood, which goes all the way up to the joists to comply with the “physical damage” portion of the code (it will be securely fastened, this is just for example purposes):

Please me know if you see anything you believe may not be NEC2017/2020 compliant.
Much appreciated as always.


texts: How high is shower waterproofing treatment supposed to be?

texts:
We noticed a sudden water leak while deep cleaning the master shower with the removable shower head, and quickly found the culprit - the tile "bench" in the shower had a grout joint that has completely separated on the leading edge facing the water, and that allowed water to get behind the tile.

My concern is how easily water showed up in the downstairs dining room. Should there be waterproofing around the whole shower and behind all tiles to prevent that from occurring? This is a relatively new home (2016) and I'm wondering if I should just reseal and move on, or if this is something worth taking up with the builder who has already told me this is "homeowner maintenance." Also, given I know water went all the way through, at least to an HVAC duct, is that cause enough to remove tile and investigate any other damage?

Thanks in advance.


texts: Basement Humidity Increases When Central A/C is Running

texts:
With regards to humidity, I seem to have the opposite intended effect in my basement when my central A/C is running...

I live in Maryland and have a 1960s Cape Cod style home with an unfinished basement, mostly below grade.  Moved in recently, so I'm still getting a feel for all the nuances.

I have a dehumidifier set to 50% in one-corner of the basement that feeds into the sump pit.  I have a smaller dehumidifier in the opposite corner set to 55% (just in case) -- I kind of keep it around as a backup.  In the middle of the basement, I have a hygrometer that has read 46-50% in the Spring with this setup.  Perfect.

I have recently noticed that when the central A/C is running, the humidity at the first-floor thermostat lowers nicely... but the basement humidity steadily ticks UP.  The dehumidifier combo can't keep up.  I've seen the hygrometer climb toward 60% already and it's not even hot yet.  Any temperature change in the basement is negligible.  When the central A/C fans kick off.. the basement humidity lowers as the dehumidifiers work... It is a constantly push/pull.

I don't see any open registers in the basement.. only a weighted damper of some kind which I'm not familiar with.. it appears to stay closed.

I initially thought that the exposed ducts were lowering the temperature in the basement, thus raising the relative humidity... but I'm not sure this is the case.  It seems moisture is being introduced somehow.  Is the system pulling outside moisture from the basement walls and windows?

More Info (Added Later)

My condensate line pumps into the sump pit... I haven't seen any noticeable leaks or puddling, but I will check again.

However, the changes in humidity % are pretty sudden.. and the central hygrometer is 15 feet or so from the fan... given that, unless it was a major water issue, I have to imagine this is an air or temperature-based phenomenon.

After messing with some online calculators.. it's not hard to jump 5% in humidity... decrease the temp by 1 degree and increase the dewpoint by 1 degree and you've basically done it. I bet the air leaks and the exposed ducts are probably the culprit.


texts: Where to find very old door knob handle / deadbolt set?

texts:
I have a townhouse unit with a very old door knob / deadbolt set that I want to replace because the key doesn't fit well and you have to know how to "jiggle" it in order to get the door to unlock. Unit is probably over 60 years old.

I can't replace it with a standard knob/deadbolt set because the holes existing holes would overlap too much with where the new holes would need to be drilled. And if I made the new holes above/below the current location, i would still need to patch the existing holes (and i want to avoid doing that).

I also thought of buying a new door, but the slab isn't a standard size and the door frame is not level. One side of the door is a fraction of an inch higher than the other. Same for the width.

So before considering any of the other options, I wanted to know if anyone knows where I could possibly look for an old doorknob/deadbolt that would fit the existing one that I have. Attached are photos of the door.


texts: How can I speed up the removal of stubborn tile?

texts: I am trying to remove tile from the bathroom floor. It was installed in the 70s, and the pieces are tiny, 1 in x 1 in. I've been hammering away but they're not coming up very easily. Is there a product I can use to loosen them up?


texts:
I have an ITE electrical panel from the 1970's. We noticed some flickering in the bathroom and some noise coming from the electrical box. There was a single breaker arcing in the panel. I pulled it and attempted to move another breaker to this slot and it did the same.

So it seems I have some sort of corrosion on this slot of the busbar. I was wondering for anyone that has experience with this, is there a recommended way to clean and potentially grease this one spot to ensure better contact?


texts: Basement insulation w/ existing tar paper and studs

texts:
I recently pulled off old wood paneling in my basement, and would like to insulate it using rigid foam (silverboard or durofoam). Behind the panelling, there is tar paper, and 1x2" studs approximately every 1.5 feet. I see the tar paper as extra protection/moisture barrier, and am inclined to install the rigid foam over top. I have gotten such a range of advice on this...

Option 1) keep tar and studs, fasten rigid board on top leaving a 1-inch air gap between the wall and foam - and build a frame in front of foam for drywall.

Option 2) remove tar paper and all studs, adhere foam directly to cement wall and build out from there.

Option 3) remove studs, adhere foam to tar paper directly.

Option 4) cut foam to fit between existing studs and use tuck tape and expandable foam to fill in spots.

Does anyone have experience with this type of situation? The home is 65 years old, and we live in zone 6 for weather. Spray foam is not an option for us. Thank you!


texts: Want to install Lutron Occupancy Sensor, but confused on current switch wiring

texts:
This is the original wiring, once I saw it I decided to not touch it. I don't know enough about this to make guesses. I know the bare/green from new switch would wirenut tie to the existing bare, but am at a loss how to handle the other 3 connections.
This is a single pole, controls light at top of garage ceiling. There are several other power outlets in the garage, which I'm guessing this acts as a sort of pass through?

This is the new light switch/sensor.


texts: Is it possible to splice this garage door safety sensor wire with some other wire?

texts:
I currently have these sensors:

http://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-Liftmaster-41A4373A-Safety-Sensors/dp/B00283Q9AW

An accident occurred a few days ago and the cable to the receiver was snapped apart.  I am going to replace the opener in a few years anyway and don't feel like buying and installing two new sensors (would have to run the wires, align the sensors, bleh).

If I could buy some wire and splice it to this one then that would be awesome.  However, I don't know what kind of wire to buy.  Someone please let me know if I can do this.


texts: Is it safe to put a gas furnace in the same room as an electric clothes dryer?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Can an electric dryer be next to the gas furnace?

We are currently remodeling our house. Is it safe to put a gas furnace in the same room with an electric clothes dryer? The room has a vent and the dryer vent is to outside.


texts: Can I connect a portable generator to a subpanel to backfeed my house?

texts:
I have a portable 6500 W generator. I have a main house electrical panel and a subpanel in my garage, which are on opposite sides of the house.  My subpanel is on the outside wall of my garage.  The main panel feeds the subpanel.

I would like to connect the generator to the subpanel which would then feed the main panel
and then I can decide which breaker (main breaker-OFF) to shut off and which to keep on.

Can this be done? What do I need and how do I do it?


texts: Is a water pressure booster pump with an induction motor suitable for kitchen tap use?

texts:
The water pressure in my kitchen is too low to achieve a reasonable flow rate through the kitchen tap. For many years I have fitted a series of booster pumps which are activated when water is flowing from the tap. This fixes the problem with poor water pressure and allows the kitchen sink tap to function correctly (it has a fancy spray head).

The booster pumps have all had universal motors with a commutator and brushes and this results in two problems:

They're quite noisy in operation
The motor brushes wear out every 2-3 years

I am considering replacing the pump with one fitted with an induction motor. These should be a bit quieter and hopefully last considerably longer.

Will a booster pump with an induction motor take too long to spin up to be practical on a tap (rather than say a shower)?


texts: Unable to screw completely into plug/anchor

texts:
I am attaching curtain rail holders into a wall for installing a door curtain.  I have drilled four holes (two for each bracket) with diameter 6 mm and depth 50 mm, in a wall which appears to have ~12 mm plaster followed by brick or concrete (I was only able to continue drilling beyond 12 mm with a hammer drill).  I bought these anchors into the hole, but when I try to insert the screws, the first bit works fine but I am unable to screw them in completely; as I progress there is more and more force required to continue screwing, but for the last 5 mm I am damaging the head rather than making the screw enter.  When I insert the screw into the anchor outside the wall, it goes in almost completely but breaks open the end of the anchor and widens it.  Inside the wall there is no space for it to do so; I suspect this is why I can't strew them in completely?  The anchor package illustrates a hammer (apparently it is a "hammer-in plug") but part of the curtain rail holder is in the way, so we can't completely hammer it in either.

Do I have the right anchors/plugs and screws for this job?  Initially I had the hole 6 mm wide and 40 mm deep.  Based on advice I deepened it, now it is 6 mm wide and 50 mm deep.  Does it need to be wider than 6 mm?

Dimensions:

Mounting bracket, inner diameter: 4.81 mm
Screw cylinder (smooth part): 4.29 mm
Screw head: 8.8 mm
Plug: 5.82 mm
Plug head: 9.32 mm
Plug with screw inside (outside wall) expands to: 9.2 mm


texts: What's the difference (if any) between these two types of PEX-to-copper fittings?

texts:
There are two kinds of similar fittings to transition from copper pipe to PEX tubing. Here's an example:

The first is made from copper and looks to be "formed" ie bent / pressed into shape in a mold.

The second is made from brass and looks to me to be machined.

But does it make any difference which of these two types is used? It seems like they will both function identically and be installed the same way.

Note - I'm not concerned about the specific brands, this is just an example.


texts: How to identify potentially unsafe electrical connectors in use?

texts:
One can buy inexpensive wago-style connectors that have the CE Marking but I am doubtful that they are really certified:
.

When purchasing such items, I can ask about certifications (the ebay listing does not mention CE certification). However, when encountering these devices in the field, how might one know if it is safe for use?

To be clear: I have encountered these in the wild. The real Wagos mention ENEC 15 certification.


texts: My kitchen outlets are starting to wear out.

texts: My home outlets are starting to wear out.  While I am making arrangements for replacement, I want to use a multi-outlet adapter.  The one I already tried does not work, even though it works in a different location.  Do I need to look for some specific features?


texts: Why is dishwasher water backing up in my sink?

texts: water backs up into both sides of the sink when the dishwasher first starts to drain.  I do not have a disposal and I do have an airgap.  Sink drains were clogged but just had that issue fixed.  Water now drains just fine and no longer backs up.  What might the issue be with the dishwasher water backing up into the sinks.


texts: Furnace control board - interchangeable?

texts:
A few months ago, I had someone working on my outdoor a/c unit, and he accidentally shorted out the control board in the furnace (it's a Goodman gas furnace GKS91155DX). He replaced the board, and the a/c did end up working, but when I tried to start the heat today, the burners would not stay on for longer than a few seconds before cutting out.

After ruling out the usual culprits (flame sensor, bad ground, etc.), I turned my attention to the control board, and after a little research I came to realize that it was the wrong board! The one in my furnace was PCBBF122, while the one listed in the service manual for my model is PCBBF112.

Does anybody know whether these boards are generally interchangeable? The terminals are mostly the same, except that the "wrong" board has 2 extra terminals -- one for "LO HEAT" and the other for "EAC-H".


texts: adding light switch to an existing circuit

texts:
I am converting a sitting area off our master bedroom into a walk-in closet, which requires me to add two separate switches (one for ceiling lights, one for a pair of wall sconces).  The previous set-up in the room was that there was a switch that controlled one of the wall outlets in the space.  It turns out that the switch is at the end of the run, as it comes after the outlet it controls.

I’m not really concerned about the future use of the switched outlet, as I can leave it or just close it off as a junction box.  What I need, however, is a way to get the two switches for the lights to function properly.  I realize this involves having both outlets and lights on the same circuit, but it seems to me that this is workable – though I don’t know how to do it.  I’m assuming some kind of magic has to happen between the junction box and the new switch locations, because in concept, the rest seems fairly straightforward.


texts: Closet system to be installed - boards in the way

texts: I am new to DIY/home improvement, and I want to update my closet. There is a 2x4 going across the width of the back wall. It doesn't seem essential. Do builders usually add support beams across the middle of a closet or is this likely the remnants of an old shelf? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Identification of a fitting which will hold a small rod

texts:
I need a fitting that screws in on both sides like a pillow block, is made of plastic and will receive a rod of 1/4" diameter. In other words the rod would just snap into the fitting and be held there.
I am pretty sure these exist, but I don't know what they are called so I need the right terminology to search for them.


texts:
I just tried to clean all the windows in my flat. In general, they now look great; should have done it ages ago!

However, maybe half of the windows have very faint streak marks on them. The sort of lines that you might get from running very-slightly-greasy fingers across the glass. It's only visible if the light hits it right, and/or if you look very closely, but it is there. It's not lint, just "lines" in the polish, I think.

I've tried to "buff" it out with further rubbing with a dry, clean sheet of paper towel (which is what I used to do the original cleaning), but no joy.

My instinct is that I used too much window cleaner (the windows were VERY dirty prior to cleaning) and these streaks are excess cleaner/polish?

Is my guess correct? Is that a thing that happens if you use too much cleaner?

Either way, is there an easy way to fix this?


texts: Is a multi-wire branch circuit with shared neutral acceptable?

texts: I have been checking my house circuits and came across a run that is made up of 14/3 on 2 separate fuses, which branch off in the attic to two runs through the house. I don't like the idea of the neutral being shared throughout. I drew a picture of what I found and am wondering if the solution I have come up with looks ok to some of you professionals. And Hello from Nova Scotia. I thank you for any input in advance.


texts: How do you remove the tip of broken screw extractor bit?

texts:
I have a faucet handle with a striped hex socket screw. I tried to take it out with a screw extractor, but the tip broke off in the socket.

Is there anyway to get this out, along with the hex head screw?


texts: What are my options for fixing a laundry faucet?

texts:
We're replacing our washer so I had to turn off the laundry faucets, hook up the new washer, and then turn them back on.

In doing so, the hot water faucet now has a slight leak where the stem of the knob enters the faucet.

What are my options to fix this? Can I add any sealant around the stem? Does the stem part come off and replaceable? Or should I just relegate myself to replacing the entire thing?


texts:
I had some water damage a couple years back and my floor was completely replaced after drying the sub floor. Both the people who dried it and the new floor guy said it was dry enough to put new floor on.

But since then I heard a popping sound once in a while which started at my feet and spanned the replaced area. It happened for a month every time the temperature was changing (spring / fall). I'm in New England.

Just now I heard the popping and noticed that the floor had popped up like a mountain range. It's getting colder now and I'd imagine the dry air would make the wood shrink. It's red oak. The closet which had been popping is popping less now that the floor erupted.

What is the cause? Should I fix this myself? If my entire walk-in closet is popping, should it all be replaced as well?


texts: My neighbour did some roof work 4 months ago and has left a ladder section on the roof, it's tied at the top round chimney stack and the bottom of ladder is tied around guttering. We are exposed to strong winds and I'm worried that the ladder could come loose and fall. Any advice would be welcome. I've mentioned my concerns to him but he seems to think there's no problem.


texts: Is fan fold insulation an acceptable underlayment for hardwood?

texts: Is fan-fold insulation an acceptable underlayment for hardwood?  It is being used as a leveler from one floor level to another.


texts: Can I run a dehumidifier pump to a washer stand pipe?

texts: I have a very humid basement, in which I run a dehumidifier often.  To allow for a more constant run, I purchased a dehumidifier pump.  It says to run the pump out through a window or to a sink.  I don't have a sink and I am worried about using the window in the winter (freezing, etc.).  My question is, Is there a way I could use the standpipe that my washer drain goes into?   It is in relatively good proximity to where I would be setting up the dehumidifier.


texts:
I have interior walls that are 24OC and I'm insulating them with 15.5 OC Denim/Cotton batts (they don't make a 23/24" version of this insulation)

Because they're interior, normally a friction fit would be used.  However, it seems that using 1.5 batt width as a friction fit seems unstable.

Any ideas on how to make this happen without having to put drywall up on the opposite side?  Insulation ties, insulweb, anything else?


texts:
I removed a ceiling fan to install a light kit. The light works but now the fan does not.
The initial fan connection was: yellow ceiling wire to blue fan wire / orange ceiling wire to black fan wire / white and gray ceiling wires to white fan wire.
The wall switch has 3 controls. I believe the larger switch controls the outlets.
Of the other 2 smaller switches, one controls the fan and the other the light. Not sure what I did wrong.
Suggestions are greatly appreciated.


texts: Best way(s) to add new king stud to existing exterior wall

texts:
I'm going to be removing a large 4'wide x 7'tall window and replacing it with a small 3'x2' window.

I will probably need to add a couple of new king studs when framing up and to keep everything 16" on center.

This is all new to me so I'm looking for ideas on ways to add the new king studs.

For example, should I "toenail" the studs in? I've seen techniques where people use their pocket hole jig and come in at a 45 degree and and screw in the new studs.


texts: Multitool attachment sets for quick release reciprocating saws

texts:
I just purchased this cordless reciprocating saw:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089QGR718/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has a quick-release blade holder

for quick-release blades like this

Are there any attachment sets available for this type of tool - along the lines of what we see here for the big names brands?
https://www.amazon.com/Oscillating-Multitool-Universal-Accessories-Milwaukee/dp/B087DYRP56/ref=sr_1_47?dchild=1&keywords=reciprocating+saw+accessory+attachments&qid=1618685207&s=hi&sr=1-47

I am trying to understand what are the different types of chucks/adapters used for reciprocating saws - and if that difference is why there are so few attachments available. I don't need help on "shopping" but on tool/[brand?] categories. Given such a sizeable set of name branders use one approach - is there a name for that 3/4 circle chuck/adapter?


texts: What kind of pipe should I install between my water meter and my house plumbing?

texts:
What kind of pipe is used to hook house water pipes up to the city water meter?

I have a blue flexible hose between the meter and my 3/4 inch galvanized piping to the house.
The blue flex hose is prone to leaks, primarily at the connecting ends.

What kind of pipe should I replace it with, and what kind of adapters should I use?


texts: GFCI vs. 40v 5ah battery for water safety

texts:
My wife has recently taken to running a cord out near our pool to watch TV. She's very careful, but I was thinking of doing what I can to make it safer, since the outlet in question is NOT a GFCI outlet (It's a standard US 110v outlet).

One obvious solution is an inline GFCI (or installing a GFCI outlet)

The other more expensive idea that occurred to me is using a 5ah 40v lithium battery that I can purchase a 300w inverter for.

My guess here is that if the wired TV were to go into the water, a GFCI would be better than nothing, but unsafe...whereas the battery would be practically speaking likely to be completely safe. Can anyone enlighten me as to which approach would be the safest, and if either or both is actually "safe"?

The water is typical "saline-pool" water.


texts: What kind of connector is this and where do I find it?

texts:
I recently bought some electric solenoid valves online, and I don't know what kind of electrical connector this is using, and where to get a female version.

Does anyone know where I can find the female version of this so I can attach it to a pair of long wires?


texts: 50's poured foundation without exterior form?

texts:
I had a couple basement contractors out to look at putting in an egress window. One of them said he expected it to be harder than normal on my house, because builders in my area in the 50s didn't use an external form on the first pour of the basement wall so that the foundation wall is probably kind of bell shaped on the outside making it really thick near the bottom. The other contractor didn't mention anything about it.
It wouldn't shock me; they cut every other possible corner. But I can't find anything online about builders doing this. The ground is frozen right now so I can't dig down and find out for sure, but this could make a substantial difference in the feasibility of the project.
Has anyone else heard of this?


texts: Laying plywood over floorboards for a vinyl floor

texts:
I'm installing a vinyl floor in my bathroom (replacing carpet). There is currently no underlay, so my plan is to screw down 3mm plywood sheets directly onto the boards, I can then use adhesive spray to smoothly fix the vinyl on to these sheets.

Should I leave any kind of gap to allow for expansion? Is this the best method to achieve a level vinyl floor? My biggest concern is the gap between floor and wall (tiled), and how to stop any sort of curling or spaces opening up (essentially basic waterproofing)

Advice really appreciated on this!


texts: Why do I read 120v between the hots and neutral in a 240v circuit?

texts: I installed a 240v outlet for a new GE stove with its own 50 amp breaker. I ran a 50' section of 6/3 cable, 18' of it from breaker box to a vent in the foundation then I stapled the remaining to floor joist to my 240 outlet, plugged in the new stove and only the clock and stove light work. When I  was troubleshooting I found 120 on both hots to neutral and very little on hot to hot same reading at the new outlet.


texts: How can I replicate this drywall texture?

texts: The title and picture say it all. It's a very subtle texture.


texts: Fan blower motor of Bryant furnace keeps running after flame is off

texts:
Fan blower motor keeps running in winder after the room temperature reaches the setting. Occasionally, especially in the case that the outside temperature is very low, the motor stops as expected. But most of the time, it keeps blowing air. However, it functions properly in summer, i.e., when the room temperature cools down to the setting, the motor stops.

The furnace model is Bryant 383KAV. After some online research, I checked that: (1) Fan is set to AUTO in thermostat; (2) Flame rollout limit switch HH18HA452 passes continuity check using multimeter, about 0.7 Ohms; (3) Temperature limit switch HH12ZB170 also passes continuity check using multimeter, about 0.6 Ohms; (4) LED light flashes a few times when the furnace turns on. Then it stays red all the time. I assume no error is detected.

I am confused now what could go wrong. Temperature Limit Switch HH12ZB170 has been replaced recently. Maybe I should manually disconnect each of two limit switches one by one to verify?


texts:
I am renting a very small townhouse that has termite issues.  At certain times of the year (termite season)  I get dropping coming into my bathroom, laundry room and now kitchen.

I have told the person I rent from and she has been fighting with the association to get the place tented...but in the mean time I would like to do something about this situation that I am living with and would like to know.......

Is there something I can painter like a sealer to close up the wholes??

ANY recommendations would be greatly appreiciated!


texts: Putting in engineered floors where there was carpet before.  The carpet was put in before the baseboard I imagine to help hold the carpet down and avoid damaging baseboard during carpet install.  My question is: Should I remove and put in new baseboard or use the gap under the (above the floor)baseboard where the carpet was an the expansion space for the new wood floor?


texts: How do I rehang a wooden door with worn screw holes?

texts:
I have a wood door in one of my rooms where the top screws no longer hold the hinge to the wall because the screw holes have worn loose.  I have tried slightly larger screws and filling with wood toothpicks, which usually lasts about a year.

I would like a permanent fix.