texts: What should I consider when using a sewage ejector pump?

texts:
What are some of the things that you need to consider if you have a sewage ejector pump regarding maintenance and prevention of abominable, excrable catastrophes?

From what I gather this thing is akin to a giant garbage disposal with a pump that mashes up sewage and pushes it up to a point where it's above, elevation-wise, the nearest sewer line. It's probably most commonly used in old basements that have been dug out.


texts: Is it necessary to ground a metal Knock Out Box used solely for POE Ethernet wire?

texts: I'm running electrical conduit to metal knock out boxes throughout a new construction residential home. The knock out boxes are soley used for POE ethernet. Do the metal knock out boxes need grounded somehow? If so, what is the proper means of doing so?


texts: What breaker configuration should I use for a 240v shed circuit?

texts:
A friend wants 240 and 120 in his shed. The beaker panel is in the garage about 40 feet away. It was suggested to run 4 individual wires--two for the 240 and one for ground and one for neutral.

What breaker and/or breakers should be used and how would they be connected? I know neutral goes to the breaker bar and the same with ground and the grounding rod outside. But how do I "break off" one leg for 120 and have it properly connected to a breaker? Thanks.


texts:
I want to pull two circuits through 1/2" EMT. Three of the wires would be 12AWG and other three 10AWG. I've found a couple of tables that say I can run 5 10AWG or 9 12AWG. Is my mixed gauge set safe?

I'm having a hard time finding solid 10AWG by the foot. The stores and sites I've found only sell stranded or solid in 500 feet lengths. I only need 35. I understand stranded wire to be larger in diameter than its solid equivalent. Is this a factor in capacity calculations?

The three 12AWG are two loads and a neutral for a NEMA 6-20 receptacle for a 2HP planer (15 amps) and a 3HP shaper (20 amps). The three 10AWG are two loads and a neutral for a 14-30 receptacle for a 5HP bandsaw. The bandsaw doesn't require the neutral. I want to make the receptacle more versatile by adding the ground to it. I'm using the conduit as the ground.


texts: How do you estimate the probability of failure in this case?

texts:
The fan relay draws 6.0A. That is a safe current for 16 gauge wire. The safety fuse is tripped at 15A which is too much 16 gauge wire.
This installation guide shows the Installation Instructions for my thermostat.  On page 2 in the specification section shows Safety Fuse Amps at 15A. Fan Relay Amps is shown as 6.0A for 120 VAC which is what I have.
Background: My building superintendant installed three of these thermostats to control our fan coils in various rooms. So far we have had no issues. Recently, a Fan Coil tech came in to replace the motor and told me that the wires that is being used are too small in diameter and therefore dangerous. The length of these wires are about 2-3 feet. The work was done 4-5 years ago.
My Questions: a. Given that there has been no failures for so 5 years for 3 units, how would you estimate probability of failure in this case? I don't think it is possible.
b. Practically thinking, as shown in the assembled picture, all the wires are contained in a metal box. In case of failure, wouldn't flames in this case just fizzle out?
Thank you for your time and feedback.
P.S. Just to be 100% clear, the fan coil originally did not come with a thermostat. It came with a off-or-low-or-high fan dial and a radio dial from hot to cold. I had the thermostat installed to control room temperature. The thermostat's control box was installed on the wall nearest to the unit. The factory wires that came with the thermostat were only a few inches long. So my super came up with the additional 2 feet of wiring needed to connect the thermostat box to the fan coil's original switch box. This 2 feet of wiring is the focus of my question and what is circled in yellow in my picture attached. In some pictures you will see all the wires exposed which happened when fan coil tech started changing the blower motor. There are pictures that show all the wires tucked in a metal box which is the steady state condition.


texts:
This is my home for the last 10 years with T1-11 installed horizontally in the front.

Is it "wrong" to have it like that? I am not having any water issue for a decade since. But now I am selling my house, the home inspector said it is wrong and must be re-done to pass inspection. Since he said water can collected and damage. I argued that the 2-ft overhang was good enough.

Thought?


texts: Is it safe to pull CAT6 via old POTS line?

texts:
My basement has this mounted on the joist:

Which appears to be a POTS/coax panel(?)
Each room has panels that are coax and rj11 combined. What I was thinking of doing was using electrical tape around an existing rj11 line in the basement and pulling that up via the office, since it appears this was put on far after the home was built and should not be stapled.
Then, I was planning on terminating the CAT6 with RJ45 in the rooms.
My question is mainly: how safe is it to pull on those wires? I don't know if these sorts of runs have electrical running or something, I don't think they do. They also don't appear to be connected to the old Bell Atlantic POTS panel on the right (not pictured).


texts: Using pneumatic paint sprayer for wall texturing

texts: I'm looking for a decent tutorial to get good results texturing dry wall (orange peel) using a sprayer.


texts: real dimensions of 2 by 4 in inches/centimeters

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  Why are 2“x4”'s really 1.5“x3.5”?

Just by looking at a 2 by 4 plank I can tell that it is neither 2in × 4in or 2cm × 4cm. What are its real dimensions? and why?


texts: How do I get rid of white lines in wall corners showing up after painting?

texts:
I'm painting the interior of our house. One room I started with the previous owner had painted it a light mushroom color. I'm painting it with a color that's a little lighter. I'm using Behr paint. I was told at Home Depot's paint department since it was already painted and similar color I don't need primer. So I painted the room two top coats. But I noticed I'm seeing (I think it was there before I painted too) a thin white line in the corners. I took several photos of the corner. Here is a link to them:

Click for larger view

I don't know the cause of this, but I would like to cover it up with the new color. Would a Latex primer and then two top coats take care of this? Or should I go directly with an Oil primer? Or get a quarter of each and try one in each corner to see what happens? Or is there something else that should be done? Or is this an optical illusion and I'm chasing a ghost here? :-) Thanks!


texts: Kitchen drawer railing track socket replacement

texts: Any advice on how to go about fixing this bracket?  How do I finding out the replacement model/part details for this thing?


texts:
I have a Remington weed wacker that is ~2 years old.  It worked great for the first 2 or 3 months but then I could not get it to work properly.  I have tried new gas, new plug, adjusting the idle on the carburetor and checking the screen in the carburetor and it still does not run properly.  It starts okay and will run somewhat decently on half choke but it stalls almost immediately after turning the choke off.  I have included a video hosted on my Google Drive account of it running (my 7 year old was the videographer so please forgive the jitters and finger in view lol)

Any thoughts on what it could be?

Video of my weed wacker


texts: What is the most efficient method for heating of rooms on working days?

texts:
It is to decide between two possibilities for heating of rooms during the absence in the building:

heating constantly to 20 °C (68 °F) or
heating 1 hour before coming home with 25 °C (77 °F) with the same effect that the room temperature is 20 °C (68 °F) at 5 p.m.

The following conditions has the example:
No people are at home 9 hours in the time between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m.
The outside temperature is 0 °C (32 °F).
The normal inside temperature shall be 22 °C (72 °F).
The building has a medium insulation, so that the room temperature decrease from 22 °C (72 °F) to 18 °C (65 °F) after 4 hours.

Which method of heating is the best to achieve low energy costs?


texts: How long have Decora switches and receptacles been manufactured?

texts: I found some problematic wiring in the house we just bought, and I want to establish the earliest date at which the receptacles must have been installed.  How long have Decora receptacles been widely available?  Is there a date code typically placed on receptacles?


texts: Is it acceptable to splice a circuit in two opposite directions for outdoor recepts/lighting?

texts:
Per the 2011 NEC, is it acceptable to...

Splice a circuit (using a junction box indoors) as long as I leave it exposed, use the correct wire connectors, and have it covered?
Use this run one side of the spliced wire to a pair of GFCI outlets at the base of my house(outside), and the other to a switch (inside) and then to a flood light (outside)?

So can I splice and can I have outdoor receptacles on same circuit as outdoor light?

Also, If anyone knows what section either of these are covered in the 2011 NEC and could tell me that would be great too!


texts: Adding Combo Switch to Existing Switch Loop

texts:
This is lighting diagram for a room.
The existing wiring (Lamp A) is a switched loop.
The switch is a combo switch (Blue Box) and I want to use the unused second switch for the new lamp.
What I want to add is in the orange box. (Lamp B)
All the wiring is in the attic which I can access.
Since this is a switched loop, the terminals at the existing
switch are hot.
I have the black and white wires running to the unused switch.
Where do I connect back to neutral?
Are there any wiring diagrams for this arrangement?
How should I wire the new switch and wiring?


texts:
I have a small electrical pan with a Black and Red wire inside. Recently the two legs source wire has broken and I have to cut off one inch and reconnect it.
The two legs, the heads are different, one for hot and one for neutral.
I am wondering do I have to connect the hot to Red, or the opposite, or either will be fine? (I am in the USA.)


texts: What kind of mask will protect me from PTFE (teflon) fumes?

texts:
I'm cutting and etching sheets of teflon in a laser cutter. The laser is well ventilated but there is still a very strong odor.

I did a number of small cuts yesterday and did not develop any symptoms such as polymer fume fever but I still worry for my health.

What kind of safety mask would be appropriate for these kind of fumes? Do I also need to take additional measures for my eyes (fumes only-- the laser cutter has a hood)?


texts: How much more paint does a paint sprayer use than a roller?

texts: I am going to be painting the inside of my 2-story home except for the bedrooms, so I have a fairly large area to cover.  How much more paint would a paint sprayer use, compared to using paint rollers?  We are considering using Sherman Williams paint and don't want our expenses to get out of hand.


texts: How does the temperature sensor work in an attic fan?

texts:
I have an attic fan that should turn on by the temperature that is set.  It is pretty hot today (Southern California) so I expected it to be on.

So far I have not seen it turn on and I just reduce the temperature for when it should turn on to 70 degrees (it was set to around 110 deg)

I have checked the electrical to it and it has power.  The fan is brand new (i however did not install... contractor did).

So 2 questions:
- how does the temperature sensor work?  does it have to be at some temperature for a long time to kick in?

any idea what else i could check


texts: How can I safely remove snow from my roof?

texts:
How do I remove snow from my roof? How about 4" of snow covered with 1/2" of ice? How do I know when I should risk getting out there to try to remove it?

We just received a notice from The New York City Office of Emergency Management saying:

The Dept. of Buildings is reminding property owners to de-ice public areas and safely
remove snow from roofs, overhangs, and awnings. The buildup of wet snow and rain can
present a threat to the structural integrity of a building.

I live in a suburb of NJ, but presumably the message still holds.

I have been out on my back roof (accessible from my bedroom window) in the rain but the ice-covered snow that we've had build up lately is another matter. I don't want my husband out there either. He is concerned for the structural integrity of the roofs, and now I get that, but it's not worth risking life and limb. Any suggestions would be super. Thanks!


texts: Use a 3-gang box for 2 switches and feed to outlet - to have more space to play - ok

texts:
I have a box with one switch to a fan, one switch to a light, and one cable (ahead of the switches) to an outlet. In bathroom with GFCI breaker.

Is it ok to use a 3 gang box, so I have more room for shoving wires in (12 AWG) but to put a 2-gang plate on?


texts:
I am considering building a masonry patio and am concerned about puddling.

Is it standard practice to build patios on a grade to prevent puddling? If so, what is the typical grade? How is the grade made?


texts: How can I attach a metal soap dish to tile?

texts: What is the best glue to use when you glue a metal soap dish to a tile in the bathroom.


texts:
I’m trying to get my plumbing vents up into my roof joist bays. They’ll run halfway up the house until they hit a beam. I’m then going to level off the vents so they dip below the beam and connect perpendicular. They will be a soffit next to the beam to hide them.

The catch is that to angle them below the joists and maintain the proper 1/4”/ft slope, I need an angle of around 15 degrees. The smallest elbow angles I can find are 22.5.

Questions:

1) do they make elbows with smaller angles than 22.5?

2) is there a different type of connector I should look for?

3) would it be ok to use two 90 degree elbows connected horizontally? I could achieve any angle with those but do end up with a lot of 90 angles in my vents. Is that ok?


texts: Do I have to provide better support when hanging a range hood from soffit framing?

texts:
I recently purchased a house and am currently renovating my kitchen. I have gutted the kitchen and changed the wall between the kitchen and living room to a half wall. The design I have now is setup to put the stove/oven against the half wall.

On the inside of this kitchen wall I have an 8' ceiling but there is a soffit with my heating duct work running through it which brings it down to 7' above where the stove top will be. The stove top comes up 36" so that leaves me 48" to work with for the range hood. I don't think I will be able to get a vented out range hood due to the pre-existing duct work so I will have to get a ductless/recirculating hood.

Is it possible for me to hang a hood down from the soffit frame? Would I have to add support to the frame to make it stronger? The frame now looks pretty weak, so I'm guessing I would.


texts: Very old furnace- I need a technician to inspect it-What would be a good check up list?

texts:
First of all you should know that this is about a 25 years furnace that is very simple and that if nothing is wrong with the heat exchanger it should last forever since, IMHO, the parts are very simple, inexpensive electronic devices (relays, controller modules and so on)

The main question is this: After an inspection do I get a paper of warranty that the inspection was done properly by a licensed installer and that the furnace is going to work for a decent number of hours after that or it will say it has this and that defficiencies?

Is such a technician insured in case his work was not properly done and the house is damaged due to that?

I want him to check what is going there and to make sure I did not create any problems and give me a paper for that

What would be a check-up list for a furnace like mine? Besides finding the cause of the overheating, these are things that I know I would like to be checked:

-heat exchanger -for cracks
-dirt in coils
-right speed of the blower motor
-gas pressure
-make sure everything is grounded properly
-make sure all the safety switches are OK (flame roll-out,pressure switch,load and fan limit etc)


texts: Water rising in my second sump pit but not the first

texts:
We have lived in our home for over 3 years. We have 2 sump pits, each with a pump. The second pit is operated with a battery back up in case of power failures. Recently, we have found that the back up pump is going off every 3 hours or so. The primary operates only sporadically. I know we have water entering the pits normally during periods of no rain due to the water table but I am confused why this would suddenly start happening in the second pit.

Any insights?


texts:
(Back to original message because tapping utility pole ground rod directly is not good idea because in our country, robbers like to steal wiring, so if they remove the neutral, and they form a series, they can get shock or worse...)

Background for the experts who have helped me so much in the past. This is my last question. I need to activate grounding before I do all the projects I have asked advices the past month.

In my country the Philippines. 99.9999% of homes don't have any grounding. This is because we never use neutral to produce 120v. We only use 240v. And we have the same split phase power system as the US because they created our ac power system. But after they left and to promote national patriotism, we outlawed use of any 120v so we won't rely on products from the US (this is what the utility company exactly told me).

Also in my country. Contractors omit the third grounding wire because all our appliances don't have any third grounding wire. Even Refrigerators have only 2 prong plug.

Now I need to tap the neutral outside the service entrance directly to my Siemens panel. This is for protection in case hot wire touches the enclosure (so it can trip the breakers. I know the reasons and the rules for grounding and only bonding it at the panel). I want to know what kind of metal connector that I can use to connect or tap a AWG 10 side by side with the AWG 0/1 neutral wire in the service entrance, one that will not rust even after exposed to sun and rains for decades. Is there such a connector? I won't connect them end to end but just tap the open wire at the middle body of it (see photo below). It is much larger than my AWG 10. What connector can do that?

This is our service entrance neutral wire hanging (not inserted into the service entrance).

Here all our apartments have 2 wire going into the conduit and my home is 20 meters inside the compound, therefore I need to connect the AWG 10 by attaching it outside the house frames on the way to the Siemens neutral conductor lugs. I can't do the usual way of wiring it via the service entrance and main panels because I can no longer insert the wires 20 meters away. See.


texts: We have a house from the early 50s that has a finished basement.  In our basement bathroom, we have this open pipe coming out from the wall. For the first couple of years, nothing came out of it, but a while back (months) there were a couple of strange blasts of dirty substance (we never saw them actually happen - just the residue, so we don’t know what provoked them), and now a small amount of water trickles out of it when you use the basement sink (not toilet). Can anyone tell me what this pipe might be for, and whether it is safe just to cap it off with a hose cap or something?  We do have a sump pump, which is located on the opposite side of the house, so I don’t imagine this could be related..?  Also, there is a window well on the outside of the house close by from a basement window that was blocked off when the previous owners finished this bathroom (don’t know if that could be related). Thanks for the advice!


texts: Why is XHHW more costly than other similar cable?

texts:
My usual suppier of THHN/THWN-2 (single) wire almost gave me XHHW by mistake.  The stuff is twice the price.

What makes XHHW more valuable?


texts: Installed Self-Grounding 3 prong in place of 2 prong

texts:
I had a 2 prong plug in place where I needed a 3 prong. (no heavy loads, just TV and such) I read about replacing this with a 3 prong and found out the following:

If the hot end to the box screw registers a voltage, then the metal box in the wall is grounded.
I should use a GFCI outlet if possible in the box.

When I opened the outlet I realized that the box is too small for the GFCI outlet. Instead, I had a self-grounding 3 prong outlet.

I installed the self-grounding outlet, and tested with a circuit tester. The circuit tester lights up normal. However, my contact-less tester beeps on each hole. I also measure the following voltages:

Hot to Neutral - 120V
Neutral to Ground - 0V
Hot to Ground - 120V

Is this normal for a self-grounding outlet?


texts: add a temp gauge or "dimmer" to cabinet fan

texts:
I have an AC cabinet fan cooling a cabinet that warms with 2 CPUs and a couple external hard drives in it that are on 24/7.

However, the fan runs furiously fast and loud and it only really needs to draw a steady flow of air into the cabinet.

I'm wondering if there is a safe way to add either:

a thermostat of some kind that will turn the fan on and off when temp exceeds a certain temperature 'zone'.
a 'dimmer' or voltage regulator I could put inline that would dial back the speed of this fan.
both?

The fan is a 115v US Toyo Fan (model: ustf80381153w).


texts: Why does my electric furnace sometimes blow cold air?

texts:
I have an electric furnace that blow cold air sometimes. I replaced the thermostat and that did not fix it. The fan blows fine.

If I shut if off for a few minutes and then try again, about half the time it will blow hot air.

It has a clean air filter in it also.


texts: Hi, there’s such spider web cracks in our second floor room. Who should I ask for to fix this problem? It looks serious.


texts: Do I need a lead-free water hammer arrestor for washing machine?

texts:
Our washing machine hammers really hard and shake pipes through the house. I've installed a few more supports for the pipes in the basement and that has helped, but it still hammers really hard and we want to quiet it down but also be sure that there is no damage being cause to the piping or the machine.
There is a cheap option that might make sense to try first (I'll need two - hot and cold) that is not lead safe. At 4x the cost of the above, the lead free option that I've found is to use a hammer arrestor and threaded fitting together.
I don't plan on drinking water out of my washing machine, but my concern is that without a check valve between this and the rest of the piping. Is it best to go with lead free so as to prevent contaminated mixing back into the rest of the house?


texts: What is the advantage of a double pole switch over a single pole switch?

texts: I know that a double pole switch is used to cut off the current in both live and neutral wire simultaneously, but by using a single pole switch,if you switch off the current through the live wire, the current doesn't flow through the neutral wire as it is. Then why can't a single pole switch be used in place of double pole switch?


texts: Why does my toilet still get air bubbles?

texts:
Bubbles = bad ventilation, right?
I've got a 1st story toilet which has air bubbles on every flush.  It does not bubble after/before and water is not siphoned out/in when other plumbing is used.
I'm in the middle of re-doing my 2nd story bathroom right above it, so I thought this was a good opportunity to determine if poor venting was the issue behind this toilet I inherited. I am at the stage where all of the plumbing in the 2nd story is removed.  After removing my old plumbing and seeing how small and clogged the air vent used to be, I really thought that would've been the culprit for my air bubbles. I have the stack temporarily running straight up and out of the roof right now.
So, as of right now there are 3 drain pipes running into my entire stack: the kitchen sink, the 1st story bathroom sink, and the toilet. That's it. That stack goes right up and out of the ceiling, in new piping, that I know is not obstructed with anything.

The toilet is fairly new so I doubt there's anything obstructing that or in it. My only guess is that because the kitchen sink + bathroom sink are vented off of the same stack and the toilet is further down, they are somehow diluting the air the WC should get.  From what I've read, I thought the sinks should have venting but this is what I inherited. I put a studor vent on the 1st story bathroom sink when it was replaced which helped the sink drain but never really addressed the air bubbles in the toilet.
Now that I know my actual stack vent is opened up, what would that be a reason for the air bubbles? Could it actually be the toilet? Is the 1st story plumbing improperly routed and not vented correctly?
Many thanks!


texts: How to apply floor patch on underlayment for sheet vinyl

texts:
I am going to put down some new sheet vinyl in our bathroom.  I have put down plywood underlayment according to the instructions.  I am now trying to fill in the indents of the screw heads (#2 square) and a few places where I sunk the screws too deep.  I went to the local home improvement big box store explained to the staff what I was trying to do.  They recommended this (tec versapatch latex modified floor patch and leveler).

This stuff was not what I was expecting.  I was expecting something smooth similar in consistency to drywall join compound.  Instead the floor patch is gritty, like mortar mixed with coarse sand.  I was not able to get a smooth surface no matter how I troweled the stuff around.

Did I get the correct material for filling in minor imperfections under vinyl?
Am I applying the floor patch incorrectly?

(edit: filling in screw head indents)


texts:
The upstairs of my house was remodeled before I bought it. The whole house used to be plaster and lath but the upstairs is now drywall. The upstairs drywall has needed some minor repairs ever since I've moved in.

What I've noticed is that the majority of the blemishes that need to be repaired are nails. It is as though the nails are popping the joint compound off the walls and ceiling. Further, it looks like the drywall is actually held in with nails.

Is it common to attach drywall with nails?

Should I pull the nails and replace them with screws before fixing the blemishes?


texts: How to repair an GFCI outlet with a loose ground (green) screw?

texts:
I have a contractor come in to do some tile work and he had taken out some GFCI outlets. I think he must have used a power drill to loosen the screws and one of the green, ground screw fell off. It would not go back in. Now I have 2 GFCI outlets with no ground.

It seems the screw is supposed to screw in a small plate inside the outlet, like a screw into a nut. As the screw is completely off, it is not connected to anything. Is there a way to fix that?


texts: How does Red Guard / waterproof relate to floating for tile?

texts: I'm going to tile my bathroom. I'm in the second story, but the surface is concrete. I live in a condo. I'm told you're supposed to use Red Guard. Do you Red Guard after you float, before you tile? Or, before you even start to float?


texts: Joist size calculation for attic loft conversion

texts:
I'm familiar with the concept of sistering ceiling joists to make them appropriate to hold a live load as a floor, but I've found the various joist calculators and tables either wrong or confusing. I'm in British Columbia so I'm hoping to get an answer specific to our residential code.
I currently have 2x4's every 16" on centre for a span of 12ft. Here's the PDF for BC's structural code. If I'm reading it correctly, I believe I'd need 2x8" joists at "select structural"  grade for northern species. I might be able to use spruce 2 grade considering that this is a sistering application and the existing 2x4s will be glued and nailed to the new joists - I'll confirm with a structural engineer at some point. Can anyone confirm that I've read the tables correctly?


texts:
120V wire an be clad in Aluminum 'whips' or in PVC as shown in the photo.

When is it appropriate (required?) to use Aluminum?  PVC?


texts: Should I remove existing subfloor sheathing before increasing height of the floor system?

texts:
We're turning a 13x13 area of attic space into livable space. The new 13x13 area joins an existing room. The attic floor structure is: 2x8 floor joists and OSB board on top.

There is a ~5 inch step down from the current room into the attic space area.
Someone presented the idea of keeping the OSB board on top of the 2x8 joists and running 2x4 joists on top of the OSB board. The 2x4s would run opposite of the 2x8's and the OSB would be sandwiched in between the existing 2x8s and the new 2x4's. On top of the 2x4's, we would place two layers of plywood to bring it flush with the existing room.

Should the OSB be removed first?


texts: Spigot replaced with ball valve- now the water gets out like from a water cannon...why?

texts:
I just replaced an outdoor spigot with a ball valve. Now when I open the valve the water comes out with a huge pressure...do you know why ? When I had the spigot in place that one provided a much smoother water flow.

what could be the reason?


texts: Does my refrigerator's water line require a shutoff valve behind the refrigerator?

texts: Is there a code requiring a water shut off valve to be behind a refrigerator with an ice maker/water dispenser?  This pertains to New York State ( Rockland County).


texts: Can I connect power supplies to each end of an LED strip?

texts: I want to run 45 feet of this product and run them daisy chain style ( 2 5m reels with a 9 foot piece in the center) and put a controller and power supply on both ends. Would that be possible?


texts: How can an electric induction cooktop be safely installed into a diy natural wood countertop?

texts:
While looking at installation documents for electric induction cooktops, I've come across the instruction:

  Make sure the wall coverings, countertop and cabinets around the cooktop can withstand heat (up to 200°F) generated by the cooktop.

This seems to exclude natural wood as a countertop material.  The spontaneous ignition temperature of natural wood is well above 200°F but it's less clear to me that prolonged exposure to this temperature would be safe.

Is this kind of language in the installation documentation trying to discourage installation into natural wood?  Or is there some standard trick (flashing, offets, I don't know what) that makes it possible and safe?

Or is exposure to these temperatures for long periods actually safe for natural wood?


texts: Why does a 2 way light switch constantly burn out? I have replaced it twice but quits working after a few days.  I have to use the switch at the other end of the room to control the ceiling light fixture.


texts: How can I determine the STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating for my condo walls and ceiling?

texts:
I work out of my condominium and generally like to have music playing throughout the day. A few nights every week I work late, sometimes until after midnight, so I'm thinking about soundproofing my office to ensure my neighbors won't hear my music.

My music is rarely annoyingly loud, but for a few albums every week I do like to turn it up more than normal, and for my own peace of mind I'd like to make 100% sure my neighbors aren't hearing anything.

Before I make any decisions, I'm trying to figure out the STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating for my building/unit so I have some idea for the level of soundproofing that is needed. I live in Redondo Beach, CA and these units were built in 1970. I know there are current minimum STC ratings required for new construction but I'm assuming that these have changed over time. I've been trying to find information about STC rating requirements for my area in 1970, but no luck so far.

Is there any way to determine my unit's STC rating without paying a specialist to test it? Or can I find the minimum STC rating required for buildings in Redondo Beach during 1970? Is there a website out there that would have this information?


texts: How to attach 10 AWG wire to LED strip lights?

texts:
I'm running LED light strips from a location that is over 50 feet from the LED transformer. In order to account for voltage drop 10 AWG CL2 wire has been used.

Questions

Since the 10 AWG wire is so thick, what is the proper way to attach the red and black wires ( see pic ) to the led strips within an LED channel?
Is it code to pigtail a the 10 AWG wire to a 26 AWG wire within an LED channel. The 10 AWG wire is coming directly out of a wall. There's no room for a junction box at this point.
Would a butt connector be the most appropriate connector, in this case, do to the small size of the LED channel? If not what is an appropriate connector.


texts: How-Where should I end this partial skirt-board at the stair? (I have more wood to re-cut a new piece if need be)

texts:
Stairs into basement

I'm not sure how the skirt-board should mate into the base molding? (Is this correct?)

And most important, where should I end the vertical cut from the stair nose (see arrow below)?

The wall will just be finished smooth with a drywall corner piece and mud finishing off the wall and ceiling.  I'm not planning on putting in trim at this time.

The original contractor had cut the tread too short and I thought this would be a great finish to a mistake I'm stuck with.


texts: Roof mount a schedule 40 PVC pipe, looking for angled/adjustable roof flange

texts:
I bought a telescoping flag pole kit from Harbor Freight and am using it for a small anemometer.  The kit comes with a piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe that the pole slides into.  I'd like to mount this on my roof, re-using some supports from an old satellite dish.  I plan to angle cut the pipe to the roof angle but also need some sort of flange that the pipe will actually sit in, then I'll clamp it down to the satellite mounts.  Most roof mount flanges I find are pretty piddly and only meant for exhaust ductwork and such.  Can someone recommend a flange for roof mounting stuff that's pretty heavy duty?
edit:
Photo of the current satellite mount.  My idea is for the schedule 40 PVC to go right alongside the main satellite mount, attaching to the roof, and then I'll attach the top of the PVC to the top of the satellite mount so it's attached in two places.


texts:
I have a front window that has about a 1/32 inch gap in the summer, but about a 1/4 inch gap in the winter. The original caulk completely came loose and allowed condensation from the window to get into the wall. Worried about this, I removed the caulk and re-caulked it this fall when there was only the small gap. The other day I noticed that the caulk had come free on one side already. I had scraped all the old caulk off and cleaned with alcohol before applying the new caulk. I used silicone caulk.

What is the trick for this? I have noticed that wherever a surface that needs to be caulked touched an outside wall that this is common. Any tips?

EDIT: the surfaces involved are the plastic window frame and a plastic window sill. The area needing caulked is similar to what is shown here (the lower right arrow) except the sill-surface is plastic. Or similar to this pic where the water is puddling (this is not my window)


texts: Can I tile my shower in stages on different days?

texts: I am trying to decide if I want to tile my shower myself. Can I tile in sections on different days? Say if I can only get a few walls done and have to stop, is that ok? I have built an L shaped shower with a bench seat in the short leg. I am pretty confident I can do a good job but it may take me longer than it would a more experienced tile setter. I don't want to compromise the integrity of the shower. Thanks in advance.


texts: Contact surface between subfloor and joists

texts:
I had to remove portions of the existing subfloor chipboard panels (18mm depth), which now I need to replace (I already bought a new P5 panel).

The problem is that one edge of the hole is irregular, and I'm worried that parts of the new chipboard won't have sufficient resting contact with the joists to provide enough support.
Particularly around the lower-right corner in the pics, where the exposed joist surface is really thin.

What is a good strategy in these situations? I would really want to avoid removing the surrounding subfloor.
Thanks]1


texts:
I'm installing a new instant water heater. The unit requires a 6 gauge wire when there was only a 14/2 (undersized?) wire going to the previous boiler-style hot-water heater. The electric panel is in the garage roughly 40ft away straight shot through the attic.

Now I don't fuss around with the breaker panel (I'll hire an electrician for that). I mainly have two concerns. Can 6/2 wire like this be run in the wall, namely the stretch from the attic down to the heater which is in a closet and down to the breaker from the attic.

And also, do I need a subpanel? Or can the 60amp breaker be installed in the master panel and the 6 gauge wires be connected in some kind of enclosure using a 6 gauge terminal block to the conductors of the water heater?


texts:
My condo is made out of concrete. I like to put a wooden board up (~25mm thick, 600mm in width, and 1800mm in height) on my concrete wall so I can nail up the wall and load it on with tools (drivers, drills, wrenches etc.)

Questions:

How to locate if there are electrical wire running inside the concrete? I have no drawing of the condo. I have seen construction worker having a handheld device that beeps when they survey a concrete wall. Is that what it is and what is it called?
There are so many type of screws I found online that drill into concrete. For example, this. The description wasn't very helpful and I wonder if someone can help tell me which screw I should use to drill through a wooden board and into a concrete wall


texts: replacing pressure treated 1x4 boards on roof with non-pressure treated white pine - OK?

texts:
On an 85 year old house there are pressure treated 1x4s running horizontally across the rafters, and the plywood sheathing is laid on top of those 1x4s.

I have to replace some of these 1x4s but there were no pressure treated 8ft 1x4s available at my local HD, so I bought untreated white pine 8ft 1x4s to use instead, and sprayed them with Concrobium (trademark) to prevent mold.

Will that be OK, or is pressure treated essential?

(I was thinking perhaps the reason for pressure treated 1x4s was to stand up to water damage that would rot plywood edges.)


texts:
I have a run of UF-B going to an outdoor wooden post. On that post I have a couple of outlets and a switch.
Once at the post, can I remove the outer sheathing of the UF-B conductors and use them to wire between these items or do I need to buy THWN wire?
Thanks so much.
-samantha


texts: Why are lights flickering, but only in one room?

texts:
I'm in the UK in an old house with fairly old wiring. In one room, I have a 5-bulb light fitting with LED bulbs. I've been battling for months a problem that they are not constant brightness - infrequently they dim for anywhere between .1s to 2s. It's like fingernails on a chalkboard to me and it's our main living room but I've run out of things to try.
Some further information:

Similar bulbs and fittings in other rooms on the same lighting circuit without any issues
I have changed the bulbs
I have changed the switch (now it's a  simple on/off not a dimmer)
I have tested the fitting in a different location (wired to a plug) and it works fine

Initially I thought it was a problem with bulbs or with a new dimmer switch but swapping things around it seems to be this room specifically. I might be able to lessen the effect using incandescent bulbs as they have better smoothing, but we use this room a lot and I want to save on energy costs... and damnit I want it to work properly! That other things on the same circuit work fine is confusing.
What is likely to be causing this problem and how could I go about confirming this? What can I test?


texts: what is the cause whereby compressor working gets hot and stops, after cooled down picks up

texts: My challenge was that, I have this refrigerator I'm working on and after awhile it is working and then the condenser become hot as the compressor discharges excess heat, which as time goes on immediately stops working and has to be put off for awhile, just to cool down before putting back on. I thought may be it might be drier, which I did change, yet the excess heat persist. So what could be the cause for this.


texts: Underground electrical to garage - burying depth?

texts: How deep does schedule 40 PVC conduit need to be buried for 30 amp electrical service from house to garage?


texts: Can I convert ONE 3 phase connection power supply to become TWO 3 phase connections?

texts: Currently I have a SINGLE 3 phase connection power supply. I intend to convert it from ONE 3 phase connection to TWO 3 phase connections. Is there a way to do that?


texts: AC side curtains don't fit into the window frame. Am I missing something?

texts:
As shown in the picture, the part of my window the side flange at the end of the side curtains is supposed to slip behind is entirely too thick to fit snugly while screwed into the pane above it. Am I missing something, or are these windows just bad for side flaps? Should I even bother continuing to try to install this A/C unit?

EDIT:

To add a little clarity, the side curtain flange hits the outcropped bit at the edge of the window, where the red arrow points, instead of fitting snugly behind it, where the yellow arrow points.

Here is a picture of the wing fitting snugly inside the windowframe, which it can only do when the window is not sitting behind the top rail.


texts: Crack appeared on the wall. Just a drywall issue or bigger foundation issue?

texts: A little background, the house was built in the 70’s and remodeled back in 2006, before we bought the house. It’s on a slab foundation and one story. Probably pretty difficult to tell, but would love some opinions on this crack. Appeared a lot smaller and is growing downward to the left. The other side is a bathroom with a bath, but no leak that is visibly apparent. I know some structural engineers are charging upwards of $400 for a visit, so I thought maybe I’d get some opinions from someone who might have seen this before before I give them a call. Thanks in advance!


texts: It's a small propane direct vent wall mounted heater. The pilot is running fine. I had been crossing wires between TH & the thermocouple on the gas valve but this has become unreliable & the main burner won't always light. I give the gas valve a tap then it works fine, for a week or two. Is there a way to 'service' the solenoid in the gas valve?


texts: Florescent shop light kicks off GFC wall outlet

texts: I have a GFC wall outlet in the garage. I put up a new florescent shop light and plugged it into the outlet. It works fine for maybe an hour but then kicks the GFC breaker off. Sometimes it will kick off the breaker as soon as I plug it in. I have plugged the shop light into other outlets and it stays on and works fine. The GFC outlet could be 20 years old. Is my outlet bad or do florescent lights not work well with GFC outlets?


texts: is a permit required for changing old outlets

texts:
Do I need a permit to change old outlets out that are cracked or not working and replace them with new ones
Thanks


texts:
Unfortunately upon moving into our new rented flat we have spilt a small amount of bleach (about the size of a large coin) onto hardwood floor.

Here is a picture:

Is there anything we can do such as re-apply varnish / screen the particular area that the bleach was spilt on and attempt to match the rest of the floor? Or will we need to completely sand it and start again?

Many thanks


texts: How do I choose the correct fluorescent ballast?

texts: I have a fluorescent fixture which takes tubes.  The fluorescent ballast has gone bad, or I want to upgrade to the latest.  How do I select the correct ballast for my fixture?


texts: What should I use to reattach loose tile?

texts: Two loose tiles in my bathroom. Is their any product that holds better than the rest?


texts:
We bought our house in 2013. There was a sump pit with a non functioning pump from the day we bought it. The basement was flooded in 2011, which I'm guessing is when the pump stopped working (a considerable amount of water from what I understand).

I finally got around to replacing the pump. I removed the old, rusty pump and replaced it with a new one. I followed the instructions provided by the manufacturer. My issue isn't with the pump or the installation, but rather the existing plumbing to/from the pump. When I added water to the pit, the pump turned on, but instead of discharging the water out into the yard through the discharge pipe (green arrow), it came spouting out of the top of a pipe that drains into the pump (pink arrow).

That particular pipe has a plastic tube feeding into it that runs from the furnace (or ductwork). There is a black valve for that pipe, but if I close it, water comes out the top of the pipe.

Is this setup correct? I don't see how any sump pump would have worked given this setup. I'm way out of my depths here and I need some help.


texts: Can I fit a valve with 15mm connections without replacing 22mm pipework?

texts:
I have an existing shower valve with 22mm connections to the water supply. I bought a new valve for a plumber to fit, but now I see that it has 15mm inlet connections.
Both units are exposed, surface mounted, thermostatic valves.
Before I book a plumber should I return the unit and buy one with 22mm connections, or can my unit be fitted without chipping the tiles off the bathroom wall and getting at the pipes?


texts: seismic upgrade - verifying foundation integrity

texts:
We want to do a seismic retrofit on our foundation. House built in 1904. No cripple wall. Mud sill with rim joist. Foundations have a recent skim coat (that we did not do). Concrete slab.

So the question: Is there a way we can test the foundations (without doing irremediable damage) in order to test whether the foundations are reasonably solid (for a 100 year old house). For example, drill a 1/2 inch diameter hole and see if the hole maintains its shape? Install an epoxy anchor bolt and see if it holds?
Thx


texts: Can I splice a clock cord to a lamp cord so I only have to use one part of the power outlet

texts: I am trying to combine my clock cord and my lamp cord into one so that I only have to plug one thing into the power outlet. Would it be OK to splice them to a single plug?


texts: Are outlets near kitchen sink required to be protected by GFCI?

texts:
I have 2ea 4 plug outlets on either side of my kitchen sink. They are about 6in away from the edge and about 1ft up. There is no GFI on either outlet. I'm wondering if this is allowed by code? My understanding is outlets near water sources have to be GFI.
Also this is in CA if that matters.


texts: I used hydrochloric acid and water to remove concrete from my tools (in a plastic bucket) but did not know how dangerous it was and how complicated the disposal process can be--first time using it obviously. It is pretty late at night and there's not much I can do but I am scared to leave it outside overnight uncovered and I don't have a lid for it


texts: What went wrong with this wall, and how do we fix it?

texts:
My friend's condo was built in 1960 and renovated before she bought it, in 2010 or so. Not long after she moved in, a chunk of plaster on the kitchen ceiling fell off, then a little later the same thing happened to a bit of wall. In both cases, the amount of material that fell off was only ~1-2 mm thick. But it was a fairly large area -- a couple of square feet in both cases.

Here is the bit of ceiling:

And here is the damaged wall:

Other interesting factoid: the damaged wall is about 2" thick: it is not a conventional drywall-on-studs construction. Feels and sounds like concrete, but it's not cinder blocks since it's only 2" thick. The ceiling also looks and feels like concrete, but I'm not positive.

Oh, here's a detail of the wall where I think we need to chip away more plaster before doing repairs:

Any idea what went wrong here? And, more importantly, how do we fix it?


texts: Help! I am trying to replace my lock with a new lock that I bought at bunnings and I’m here with my screwdriver but look at this what kind of screwdriver do I need for this! What is this. I’m very confused. I tried poking it but it doesn’t come off. What can I use to remove the lock??


texts: venting a range hood outside on our cedar cabin

texts: i need to vent our range hood outside on our cedar cabin and it is on the front of the house we would like it to be as inconspicuous as possible I can not find a vent that would work well with a cedar cabin


texts:
My concrete has an old unknown spill which appears in the newly warm moist weather to be forming crystals or hairs. It doesn't have direct water on it, and hasn't been damp recently.

What is the likely cause?

Is this likely to result in damage?

How should I treat the spilled area?


texts: How many connections can you have off of CPVC

texts: I am looking to add a wet bar to my bathroom and was looking to tap into my CPVC lines to provide the water.   Currently there are some 1/2" lines running near where I want to go that tap off of a 3/4" trunk.  Some plumbers that I had in were saying that we couldn't use the 1/2" lines as there'd be too many tap offs from the line, which leads to my question - How many connections can you have off of 1/2 and 3/4" CPVC?  I tried doing some googling, but the best I can find talks about what the max pressure for each size is, which doesn't mean much to me.  FWIW, this would be residential, schedule 40 piping.


texts: How should I install metal corner trim on this slanted roof?

texts:
I've about got the metal on this tiny house and I'm having trouble figuring out how to install the corner trim at the top of the roof to make it look finished off. The roof is somewhere between a 3/12 and 4/12 pitch.

I'm just using standard corner trim.

What do I do about the part where the three trim pieces meet at the top?

I tried looking online but considering this is a slanted roof with no overhang in the front I couldn't find any examples to help me out.

If you have any illustrations or anything that would be much appreciated.


texts: There is a hole in my drywall from a doorknob repeatedly hitting it, is there a straightforward way to fix it?


texts: Internal latch plate stuck in latch bore?

texts:
I am trying to replace my interior door knobs and am really struggling to remove the latch in my bathroom door. The latch plate (which goes  into the latch bore) was painted over so I assumed that’s why it wouldn't budge.
I was able to disassemble the latch while it was still in the door and remove it that way, however the latch plate is still stuck in the latch bore and possibly still a part of the latch.
I’ve tried to remove it with pliers but have just managed to bend or break everything I can manage to grab onto.
Is there any way to remove this?
Is it possible that this is built into or glued into the door?
Am I going to need to replace the whole door?


texts: How can I attach new connections to this old galvanized pipe?

texts:
My water heater is hard-plumbed with galvanized pipe.  It is at least 20 years old and is leaking:

I want to use modern flexible hose for the new water heater, but I don't know the best way to change the existing setup. I could simply take off the unions and try to thread adapters to the pipe stubs, but I'm concerned that the existing threads will have corroded to the point where it won't make a good connection.

How should I proceed?


texts: What is this small L shaped bracket thing called?

texts: I have a drawer that broke because the screw which held this little plastic piece was tightened too far and cracked it. Could someone help me identify it so that I can order another one?


texts:
I noticed tonight that my water heater appears to be trying to fill with cold water, but it won't stop. I can hear water flowing through the pipe, and the overflow drain pipe (white one just above the green valve) has a slow, but steady stream of water coming out. Is this normal? I've never noticed this before.

Click for full size


texts: What if my Trane 3 ton 13 seer heat pump is unable to generate enough heat to reach the set point on the thermostat?

texts: The unit turns on when thermostat temperature is set higher than room temp.  It blows cool air for several minutes and then the emergency heat kicks on and warmer air comes from vent.  This lasts for several minutes then shuts off, air continues to blow but is now cool again.  At this point room temperature never reaches the set point the unit continues to run continually until it is shut off at the thermostat.


texts: Adding more water for longer working time for 5 minute joint compound?

texts: Ideally one would use the joint compound with the desired setting time, together with the recommended amount of water for mixing. However, a few times I added more water when mixing products like SheetRock Easy Sand 5 Lightweight Setting-Type Joint Compound to gain longer working time, the result turned out fine. I added enough water until it is almost runny. The mix probably remained usable for 20-30 mins. I'm curious what may be the downsides to this practice.


texts: Can the neutral and hot be split like this?

texts:
The picture describes it better than I can, but here is the plan.  Run a circuit off the panel (hot, neutral, ground) into a GFCI.  Off the load side of the GFCI run wires into a light switch box that will control two sets of lights (all lights plugged into outlets).  The hot will be pig tailed in the light switch box to feed both switches, while the neutral passes straight through to the first outlet box.  In this outlet box I will pig tail the neutral (now have two hots and two neutrals in this box).  These two sets of wires will supply two separate sets of lights.
Is this plan valid and safe?


texts:
I’m having some trouble with a light fixture. I have installed a hanging light and it seems that the electrical box in the ceiling is coming out. It has spring clips but they’re not strong enough to hold my new hanging light fixture into place (it’s not crazy heavy, but apparently too heavy for the clips).

The circular plate that has the hole in it is metal (I drilled that). The circle hole in the ceiling had a a metal ring that sits inside of it. What is my best choice to secure this into the ceiling?

Thanks!


texts: How to troubleshoot gas supply not making it to some appliances

texts: I recently purchased a home and once utilities were turned on I've been having issues with certain gas appliances. Some appliances required a normal amount of time to get the gas flowing after being off for some time. One water heater was finally able to light, as well as one furnace and the stove. However, a second water heater, second furnace, and the gas-log fireplace will not light. The individual gas valves to each appliance are in the on position but I never smell any gas. Is it possible for there to be restrictions in the gas supply lines that would affect all of these appliances? How can I troubleshoot this issue?


texts: Shade Netting Car Port - has a small tear - how to stop it from getting bigger?

texts: Is there a way to "repair" or stop a small hole in a shade netting car port from getting bigger?


texts: Spray to keep blown-in cellulose insulation from drifting?

texts:
I have a hip-roofed garrison colonial in New England, with blown-in cellulose. I have two whole-house fans ("half-house fans"?), and to give enough attic venting I have continuous soffit vents on all four sides of the house.

Problem: some of the cellulose has drifted into the soffits and then over the vents, blocking them. I'm going to remove, clean and replace all the vents (ouch), but I don't want any more insulation blocking them.

There's a substantial amount of (useless) insulation in the bodies of the soffits. I tried using a leaf blower to clean one out one of the bays, but cellulose dust exploded all over my front yard. I can push the insulation to the side to open the air path, but I'm concerned it will just drift back over the vents.

Any suggestions on a spray that could bind the insulation together and keep it from drifting? I could just stick a random can of spray paint up into the slot, but that could get messy. I was also considering dilute white glue. I'd have no problem using up a cheap spray bottle, but that would require something quite thin and probably water-based.


texts: My fridge handle is worn to the point that the foam is exposed and it can't be wiped clean. How can I refinish it with a durable finish? I'm assuming anything with a solvent would destroy the foam.


texts: Filling in low area to create platform with concrete / leveling

texts:
I have some steps going off the back door of a house (from the 50's) that I'm working on and am attempting to help prepare for market / sale (USA).
The steps go down to an easement which runs perpendicular to the steps.
The problem is, the steps go down (not all the way to ground level) and then there is another step back up. So, essentially, the lowest step has two higher steps on either side of it.
(Side View)
                                          | Door to house
                                          |
                                        |
                              __________|
                             |
_______              ________|
       |  Low Area  |
       |_(8in deep)_|

On the back side of the low area, we have more concrete that is level with the 2 surrounding steps, on the front side, there is nothing currently - it's just open.
I need to fill this low area so there is a single platform.
The concrete that is there is likely also from the 50's - Somewhat cracked, and certainly imperfect.
I'm not concerned about perfection as this is a formality, but I would like to fill in the low area and then smooth the top and I have a short timeframe to do it in.
I'm looking for suggested methods. Here is my rough-draft plan:

Take 2x4s and cap the "open" end of the low area by using concrete screws and screw into the areas surrounding the low areas. This will act as a barrier for new concrete.
Get Quikrete high pressure concrete, mix and pour into low area. (4 CuFt already purchased)
Shortly thereafter (24 hours?) use self leveling concrete to smooth out the entire platform so it looks decent.

Is this a viable plan? I've never poured concrete before, but am handy and can pick things up - I just want to make sure I get the right things and do the right process.


texts: We have well water and Im unsure if that is a factor in all of this but after replacing new shower heads (we have two in one shower) I have noticed the water in every room in the house comes out slow then fast and I hear some kind of noise like a deep humming that comes in waves. The water pressure includes the flushing and filling of toilets. The sinks and showers. There has been no change in the taste of the water just pressure. It actually started in the main shower that the appliance change took place and then I started noticing it in the toilets and finally after a few days....I noticed it in the kitchen sink. If anyone knows whats going on I sure would appreciate hearing from you. It makes me think something may be wrong with our well or pump or something.


texts: How do I get rid of mold from the bottom of a bath mat (where the suction cups are)?

texts:
We have a bathmat that we use to line the tub when we bathe our daughter. After the bath, we remove the mat and suction it to the shower wall (which is some sort of frosted glass)

I've noticed black mold growing on the suction cups.

I tried to use vinegar...sprayed it and tried to wipe off the mold. I tried a little bleach too.

Nothing seems to remove it.

Is there something else I should try?


texts: Do I need a vent for extending a drain to a new bathroom addition?

texts:
I am building a new full bathroom on what used to be my back porch. I am planning to extend the existing drain at a cleanout and to run it outside the house underneath the floor.

I need to know if I need to add a new vent to the extension, or if I can rely on the existing vent.  The total length of the new (4") drain will be about 15' from the existing vent to the farthest fixture.

I am in Virginia. I've looked at the code but I can't figure out which rules apply to my situation.


texts:
There is an old door with some marks from a jimmyproof lock. It was replaced with a single cylinder deadlock, satin nickel finish.
To cover the marks, it was decided to install a back plate covering the affected area (a rectangle of 4 x 6). Of course this back plate will have a hole so the deadlock goes through it.

What materials do you suggest to cut to this size that will blend well with the satin nickel?
Initially I thought about opaque acrylic but it might not look good (plastic looking versus metal deadlock). Maybe a metal looking acrylic that I found, or an aluminum sheet? How difficult would it be to cut the hole on them?

PS: it is inside a safe building, it does not requires strong protection. It is more for the looks (cover imperfections from the jimmyproof lock that was removed) than for security. Painting is not an option because the door got damaged in this area and it was decided to not replace the door.

Appreciate any ideas for materials that would go well with the new satin nickel deadlock!


texts: About how much does it cost to leave 12 led bulbs 60watt replacement burning for 24 hours?

texts: I changed to LED bulbs, and I wonder if it pays to buy a switch timer or if it is cheaper to leave it on at all times?


texts: Smoke alarms start beeping after switching on the mains

texts:
I have two smoke alarms in my flat. Recently I had to change the battery for one of them, so I switched off the mains, disconnected the alarm, replaced the battery, tested it, and reconnected the alarm. However, upon switching the mains back on, both alarms started beeping.

Even if I physically remove either one of the alarms, the other will beep. I'm aware that smoke alarms are daisy chained so that when one alarm is activated all the other alarms will sound an alert, but if one is removed from the system, does that normally automatically activate the remaining ones?

Also, both work normally when I push their test buttons. Anyone have any idea what's happening/how to fix it?


texts: Difference between through the wall AC and wall sleeve replacement AC

texts: I'm trying to figure out what the difference is between "through the wall ACs" and "Wall sleeve replacement ACs." They seem to be differently priced but I don't know what else the difference is. My building told me to buy a wall sleeve replacement AC (the sleeve is already there in the apartment) but I'm wondering if I can buy the cheaper "through the wall AC." Any insight?


texts:
A little while ago I bought some of the below recessed lights for the basement. Had an issue where one wasn't working so I punched a hole into the ceiling and pulled the junction box down, re-nutted the hot, and neutral wires just in case to no avail. Long story short in my attempt to Get the junction box, I was pulling on the power wire a bit but evidently a bit too hard. Pulled the white sheath out of the box. Tried opening the junction box, couldn't figure it out, so I put it back together, shoved the white sheath back in, and wrapped electrical tape around the opening then put it back in the ceiling. Magically, the light worked.

Now because of that sheath coming loose and me electrical taping it, I just wanted to make sure there wouldn't be an issue with it down the road that I should be seriously concerned about.

Should I buy a new light for the junction box, or am I good?

The lights: Sunco Lighting 4 Inch Slim LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLYD75M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


texts:
BACKGROUND

As I understand it a pool pump is necessary to force water through the filtration system: keeping the pool clean.  The pool is part of an HOA and we do have a pool-man to attend the pool.

I would like to understand the line of thinking that allows one to decide how many hours a day or duty cycle (fraction of the hour it pump is on) is needed.  I would think that debris is primary driver of pump use and not the mixing of chemicals (diffusion / entropy).

I can program an embedded controller to schedule on/off times for the pump, but would prefer to buy something if it already exists.

QUESTIONS

If the pump was not on  enough, what symptoms would be observable?
Is it preferable to run the pump 8 hours continuously or 20 minutes
of each hour continuously?
In Florida winter, when the pool is rarely used: is there a rule of thumb to reduce pump use?
If the pool is closed at 10, does it make sense to run the pump for 1 hour then shut it off until the pool opens at 10AM?
Is there a feedback mechanism (measurement) that can be used to control the pump?

If you have experience reducing your pump on-time and have successfully measured the reduction in energy, please state this in your response.  Double bonus if there was a controller (either off the shelf or custom) implemented.


texts: I took my BF’s car key remote apart and cleaned the button contacts with a qtip soaked in alcohol, but it is still flaky when he presses the button. How do I improve the contacts so it works every time?


texts: What kind of tool can I use to tighten a faucet bolt in a tight place?

texts:
I am trying to tighten a kitchen faucet bolt (7/16 inch) in a very tight spot. Please refer to the picture.

Standard size wrenches don't fit well enough for me to turn it.  I've used a stubby wrench but I can't get any leverage because of the tight spot.  I bought a set of flex head rachet wrenches, but they keep slipping off.  I also tried a basin wrench, but it keeps slipping off and is very hard to attach.

Do you recommend any other tools that would work?  Would an offset wrench work or an adjustable flex head wrench work?  I just don't want to keep collecting tools that I won't use!

Thanks for your help :)


texts: Extra tube coming off upstairs sink drain

texts: the 2nd floor bathroom (sink, toilet, tub), I noticed a flexible hose coming into the sink drain. It's below the counter, above the trap. Both of our AC units is outside downstairs. Can I remove it when i go to put in a new P trap. Our sinks are leaking because of the way it is set up.


texts: Is it possible to connect this wall light to the existing fixture?

texts:
I recently discovered a couple of what look like wall light fixtures in my apartment so I went out and bought a wall light hoping the connection would be relatively simple.

The fixture looks like this:

The wall looks like this:

Can I connect the two together easily or should I call on an electrician?


texts:
I ran a 50 amp sub-panel to an outbuilding 120' from the main source panel with a four wire SOOW cable. I put the cable in an 1-1/2" conduit 2' deep. I connected the neutral to the neutral buss bar in the main and sub-panels, added a separate ground bar in the sub-panel and connected the ground wire to the main panel bus bar and sub-panel bus bar. I drove a copper rod down into the earth 8' at the sub-panel location and ran a bare #6 from the sub-panel ground bar to this grounding rod.
* Is this additional sub-panel ground rod correct? *


texts: How do I run a new conductor on an existing kopex tube?

texts:
I'm trying to add smart light switches (I was thinking of Shelly 2.5) to my appartment, but the problem is my lightswitch enclosure doesn't have neutral wires. It just has a live wire that enters the lightswitch, exits and goes on to the lightbulb. The lightbulb has a neutral wire which completes the circuit. This is standard electrical wiring over here in Eastern Europe.

I'd like to run a new conductor from the junction box to my lightswitch 1-1.5m through an existing kopex tube with 3 existing conductors.
Question is what's the best way to do this?
I tried stuffing the conductor down the kopex tube but it got stuck after about 15 cm. The tube diameter is larger than the wires, but perhaps they've bent and twisted inside.
Would an electrical fishing rod work for adding the wire without removing the existing wires?
Thanks!


texts: Can a single set of conductors feed utilization equipment *and* a subpanel simultaneously under the NEC?

texts: So, let us assume we have a set of conductors (hot/neutral/ground) going off to some piece of utilization equipment.  Can I also run a set of conductors of appropriate ampacity off this circuit to a subpanel, thus making the conductors both a branch circuit and a feeder at the same time, provided their ampacity isn't exceeded by the combined load?  Or can a set of conductors be either a branch or a feeder under the NEC, but never both at once?


texts:
I'm trying to make a tiny (3 x 1.6 x 2 meters or 9.8 x 5.2 x 6 feet) shack on a trailer that can legally be dragged at 100km/h aka 62 mph.

I am curious about the frontal force of the wind at this speed (or maybe 115km/h - 70mph winds in windy conditions).

My framing would either be 2x2" wood or 40mm square steel tubing with a 2mm wall thickness.

Which would be better to support the force of the wind as far structure strength goes, or is that not something I should be concerned with?


texts:
Between one of our wooden windows and the wall there is a gap of about 5 cm that is only very loosely filled with plaster (see below). The craftsman who did some other plastering work in our house suggested to cover the gap with a thin wooden panel instead of fully filling the gap with plaster. At that time I thought it would be a good idea and did not ask for the reason, but now I am wondering why, especially since I expect the plaster would provide better insulation.

Is there a reason to not fill the gap with plaster?

Edit: In Germany, I am used to windows that are recessed. In such a configuration, there is no gap as shown in the following photo.


texts: How do we keep a porch with a fiberglass roof cool?

texts: We have a clear fiberglass roof on our enclosed porch.  We just recently put it in.  Sun pounds in and by afternoon in the summer, it is SO hot in there.  We used to just open the windows and it would cool the house.  The old roof was tinted green and we never had this problem before.  What can we put on the new roof to cool off our home?


texts: How should I attach a deck on the corner of my house?

texts: I am building a deck on a part of my house where it will go up agianst two sides of the house (see picture).  I know I'll have a ledger on the longer side of the deck (below the two windows) but do I also want to attach the deck to the side of the house with the sliding door? If so How should I?


texts:
I have a path (in Indonesia; rainfall 4000 mm per year) that is a combination of steps and slope.

This picture shows a relatively steep slope over a brief section that's a bridge over a hole. The total path length is around 50m and I guess it climbs around 10m over that distance.

It probably had some sort of gravel finish at one point, as on this part of the path:

but now it's basically just slippery.

Basically I'm constantly falling over, and I want to fix it up.

Is it sensible to just try and resurface it, subject to some sort of maximum gradient, or am I better just to make the whole path completely flat with stairs?


texts:
My master bath has 2 switches.

The switch on the left (1) goes to the light.  The one on the right (2) goes to the fan.

The light works fine.  The fan only works intermittently.  It takes 2-3 flips of the switch for the fan to come on.  I've replaced the switch and the fan (it was old).  I've sketched the circuit the best I can.

As you can see from the picture, A, B, and  C  are all in the switch box.  There is one cable coming into the box and 2 going out.  I've traced the cable to the fan through the attic and verified there are no other junctions.

I've got a multimeter and I've done voltage tests across every combination of the switches with ABC and everything on switch 2 seems to match switch 1 (when working and when not working).

Edit - tonight I swapped the black wires between the 2 switches (still using the quick connects for now).  Same results.  Fan still intermittently works but the light works fine.
One thing I noticed during this process is that if I turn the fan switch from on to off and back on again very quickly, the fan works everytime.  Is this at all significant?

Edit-  I then disconnected and reconnected all the wiring within the box and connected the switch ground posts.  I also used the screw posts instead of the quick connects.  Same results.  I was about to climb back into the attic to pull out the fan and return it when I decided to read the troubleshooting table in the manual.  I've bolder the above from the previous edit for a reason.  see answer below.

Is the only option at this point replacing the cable?  Or am I missing something?


texts: Do I need to insulate the joists in the floor of a converted garage?

texts:
I live in New England, and am having my current garage renovated into more heated living space.

There is a floor with 2x8 joists being built about 2 feet above the garage slab, and flush with the top of the garage foundation wall.

When complete, the space between the new floor and the slab will not be ventilated.

Should I have those joists insulated?


texts: Back-to-back conduit bodies for wall transition

texts:
I am running an 80A (4AWG Copper) line for EV charging in my garage. I am using EMT conduit and I need to transition through drywall. Since the studs are not deep enough (2x4) for the minimum radius turn to fit, can I put an LB conduit body on both sides of the wall to effect the transition? It seems to be code according to NEC, but it's exploiting an exception back-to-back, namely:

NEC 314.28(A)(1): for 4 AWG or larger conductors the distance from a conductor's entry to a "box" and the opposite wall must be at least 6  times the raceway size - 1" EMT in this case, so 6" - except if the opposite wall is a removable cover. So I'd be exploiting this exception twice with essentially zero intermediate cable run.

ASCII picture:

       GARAGE
                   ---------- <--- removable cover for LB conduit body #2
                ________________
  LB conduit    | .................... 4AWG conductors
  body #2 ----->| . ____________
================| . |========================== <--- drywall
       _________| . |
4AWG .............. | <-- LB conduit body #1
       _____________|
         ----------  <--- removable cover for LB conduit body #1


texts: I am building a home and would like to install floor tiles on wall also, please let me know if it possible to install floor tiles on walls?


texts: How to take off paper glued to concrete with elmer's school glue

texts: How can I take off paper that was glued to concrete wall using elmer's school glue?


texts: 6/3 Wire to a 100 amp sub panel, how many breakers?

texts:
I have a 100 amp sub panel being fed a 6/3 cable.  The main Panel has a two pole 60 amp breakers.
How many breakers can I have, or how many amps can I have?  All the outlets/receptacles will be 120v. Can I use twins? What is my limit?
This is for a shed with power tools, fairly light use.  I just want lights and 120 volt outlets attached to the Sub panel.
Thanks,
-Greg
Edit please... I'm looking for direct answers, not what I should change. I have 6x spaces can I put 6x 20amp breakers? I had two electricians suggest I can't but wouldn't tell me why.


texts: Gas oven with glow bar ignition - how should it work?

texts:
I have a Maytag Magic Chef 34JN-2CKX-ON gas stove. The oven stopped heating. There is a bottom burner and a top burner bar. When I turn the oven knob to temperature the bottom glow bar comes on and gets very hot. The top one does not come on. As I understand there are temp. sensors at the igniters that switch the gas on if hot enough. Should the bottom burners come on, or do both igniters need to come to temperature before any gas gets turned on?
What would be the first troubleshooting steps? Check fuses and replace top glow bar?


texts: Light bulb stays on regardless of switch position?

texts:
I have three porcelain lamp-holders that I want to install in my apartment.

I installed one without a problem in my den area, and it works with the light switch. I connected black to a brass screw, and white to a silver screw. I left the ground in the ceiling, as there was no place for it on the lamp-holder.

My problem is with the bedroom

which has the following wiring setup:

I have tried to do the same as the den, connecting 1x black wire to a brass screw, and 1x white wire to a silver screw. I left the other black wire capped, and left the red alone. The problem is, the light stays on all the time - regardless of the light switch position. I have tried both an LED bulb, and an incandescent bulb. Both stay on constantly. I have tried stripping the red wire and using it in place of the black wire, and the light did not turn on. There are no other switches that control this light.

All wires are capped back to their original states (as depicted in the photo).

Why does my light stay on constantly?


texts: What type of electrical boxes should I use for outdoor fixtures when fiber cement trim openings are narrow & shallow?

texts:
I haven’t heard from the electrician who wired my house for 5 days and prior to that was just a short text to say our contract didn’t include installing light fixtures for a remodel.  I live in a rural area, so contractors are hard to come by.  I can do basic wiring.

My questions concerns electrical boxes for PPG fiber cement light blocks and outlet blocks.  The blocks are trim pieces for outdoor electrical fixtures.  They have very narrow and shallow openings.

The light block is 1.25” thick x 7.25 wide x 9.5 high.  One block has 2 cables protruding and the other has 1.  A 4” diameter pancake box was slightly too large in diameter.

My light fixtures are Bellagio 16.5" high, bronze downbridge outdoor wall lights.  The backplate is 6.75" high x 4.75" wide.  They weigh 4lbs.

Question:  What type of light box should I use to enclose my wiring?  Should I use a metal 3.5” octagon box 1.5” deep?  I want the light fixture to sit flush with the trim.

The outlet block is 1.25” thick x 5.5 wide x 7.5 high.  I tried a 1 gang, 1” deep blue PVC flanged shallow box, but it was too wide.  I found a metal box that will fit, but it is 1.5” deep.  I was hoping the face of the GFCI outlet would be flush with the trim.  The outlets will be protected by waterproof boxes.

Question:  What type of outlet box should I use?  Should I stay away from metal?  Also, one outlet block has 3 cables protruding from it.

Question:  The final question concerns how the cables protrude from the sheathing.  In several cases they’re not in the center of the opening.  Should I use a jig saw to cut into the sheathing to reposition the cable to be able to pass through center knockouts?

Thanks!


texts: What could cause bubbling toilet when the shower or sink is running?

texts: One of the two toilets in my rental house is bubbling when the shower or sink in that master bath area are on. In the past, about 6 months ago, I have had plumbers and rotoruter out and they could find no blockage in the line. Before I spend more money on an out of state house, could someone please tell me if they have suggestions?


texts: Should I fix my swimming pool with plaster or a clorinated rubber?

texts:
I have below ground swimming pool. The plaster is cracking and pealing off. I need to apply new plaster or another type of coating. I am wondering whether it would be easier to apply a coating of clorinated rubber?

Does anyone have experience with this type of coating that they could share?


texts:
On my kitchen ceiling, there are two light boxes controlled (I hope?) by one dimmer switch.  The boxes are connected to the far wall (opposite the switch) by a conduit that runs along the ceiling; however, some wires stick out directly from the ceiling, not from the conduit.

               add'l wires
  ____________||________||_____c_e_i_l_i_n_g_______
  |]========[boxA]====[boxB]                      |
  |      ^                                        |
  w     conduit                                   w
  a                                               a
  l                                               l
  l                                               l
  |                                               |
 [|]                                              |
 [|] <- breaker                       dimmer ->  {|
 [|]    panel                                     |
  |                                               |

Box A only had two loose (capped) wires: a black and a white.  I tied them to the respective black & white wires of a pendant fixture, and all was well.  That light is now controlled by the dimmer switch exactly as I'd expect.  For the sake of completeness, I'll note:

There was another pair of black Romex running thru box A, but it didn't have any ends exposed, just ran straight thru the conduit toward box B.
Box A doesn't appear to be grounded?  I ran a green grounding wire (which came with the fixture) from the pendant's canopy to the junction box, but there's no connection to the condo's ground wiring that I can see.

Meanwhile, over in Box B, I found a total of 6 wires, which were joined together into 3 pigtails.

Black Dark Grey + White
Black + Black
Blue + White

There is continuity between the black grey wire in pigtail #1 and the blue wire in pigtail #3.  (Note that these are the two wires coming from the conduit; the other four come from the ceiling).  No continuity between any other pair of wires.

So, questions:

How the heck do I wire my second pendant fixture into box B?
Does the wiring in box A need to be modified for proper grounding?

Edit: here's a zoomed out photo

^^ From left to right, you can see the wires coming out of box B, the pendant successfully hanging from box A, and the breaker panel underneath the shelves on the far wall.  I separated the box B wires for testing (i.e. the pigtails seen in the closeup photo above are no longer connected), so the pendant obviously does not light up anymore.

Followup Edit: by popular request, I've disassembled box A for photographing, and taken a bunch more measurements.

^^ Here you can see the single black and white wires coming out of the ceiling, which I'd previously wired into a pendant, and also the conjoined pair of wires (black+grey) running thru the conduit.  As for continuity:

Box B pigtail #2 black [the one paired with black] == Box A's loose black wire
Box B pigtail #3 white [the one paired with blue] == Box A's loose white wire
Box B blue == Box B dark grey == Box B ceiling plate == Box A ceiling plate

The main discovery is that with better lighting, I can see that the dark wire from Box B's first pigtail is ever so slightly lighter than the other two black wires.  I've relabeled it "grey" above, since it appears to be grounded.


texts: How can I make a wooden floor flat, without using self leveling product?

texts:
I am preparing to install laminate flooring in the hallway of our 30 yr. old house. The hall is just over 3 feet wide and 23 feet long. The support piers/beam run lengthwise in the center of the hall and of course the foundation has settled causing the floor to have a "crown" in the center. The hall floor drops off from the center out to the walls on both sides the full length of the hall. The "drop off" is fairly consistent, approx. 3/8" to 1/2" low at the walls at all points.The floor had carpet with 3/4" particle board underlayment which I have now removed. The plywood subfloor is in good shape and I need to avoid tearing it out to shim the joists.
  I started using self leveler on a 3ft. section and quickly realized that several bags would be needed. I also fear that the water from the mix will soak into the particle board underlayment in the floors joining the hall(3 of which have already been finished with laminate),so I am looking at alternate methods to get the subfloor ready to install new 3/4" plywood underlayment that will be flat enough for the laminate.
  I like the idea of wedge shaped shims at each joist(16'in centers),but will the plywood sag between shims?


texts: Why does my water heater's drain line rejoin the outlet pipe?

texts:
I know very little about water heaters and plumbing.  Done some minimal work, but never water heater hookup.

I need to replace my 20 year old AO Smith 50 gal gas water heater in a house I've owned for nine years.  Water heater is in the basement, all pipes are copper.  The hot water outlet pipe at the top of the water goes up a few feet and branches to several pipes supplying water to various areas of the house.

But there is something curious about the way the drain on the water heater is setup.

A plumber giving me a bid noted that the drain outlet on the water heater has a valve, which opens to a two way junction.  One side of the junction goes immediately to a standard outdoor hose faucet (seems normal so far).  The other side of the junction is a pipe that leads back above the water heater, through the basement wall, and eventually rejoins one branch of the hot water outlet pipe (probably 10-12 feet away), specifically the one going to the kitchen sink.

The plumber, who seems very experienced, was perplexed by this configuration, said he'd never seen it and didn't know why it would be this way, and told me he'd have to undo this when installing the replacement.

There is a 2nd water heater in another part of the basement that isn't quite as old (also gas, 40 gal), and that I eventually would like to decommission.  This 2nd water heater appears to have been installed about seven years after the first, but appears to have the same drain configuration, same two-way junction with one side leading to a pipe that travels some distance away and rejoins another hot water outlet pipe.

Somebody obviously went to a lot of work to setup the drains on both water heaters this way.

I'm wondering what function this configuration would serve, whether it is important, and should I ask that it be retained.  Thanks!


texts:
The problem I have is the air heater shutting down in windy days and I'd like to figure out how to fix this issue.

Here's the setup: The back of the house faces North to an open field which gets very windy. The winds are very strong on that side and hit right up against the north wall the house. That's exactly where the air heater intake/exhaust sits.
It is about 1.5 feet above the ground. The pipes run through the wall and in a straight line to the heater in the basement.

When the winds are really bad (like the blizzard we recently had) the fire jets from inside the furnace get blown out. The heater attempts to restart about 3 times then it locks out because it can't stay up and running.

In this photo you can see the type of intake/exhaust termination I have. The big hole in the middle is the exhaust. The intake is the gap in between the wall and this piece.

When the winds hit the side of the house, they go along the wall into the intake.

How can I prevent this from happening when the next blizzard will hit?

EDIT

Moving the ducts to other sides of the house is not really plausible. The only side that might work would be on the east, but it also could get very strong winds.

During the last blizzard I improvised a wind blocking wall in front of the vent, but it did not work. The wind hits the side of the house and goes down along the face of the wall into the intake.
I guess I could have some sort of a barrier attached to the wall around the intake. But that could end up being an eyesore.


texts: I need to install a 240v/30 amp outlet for a microwave (a Turbochef, kind of like a microwave on steroids.)  I have a single 110v outlet on its own circuit.  It's using 10 awg copper.  Can I replace that with a 240v outlet and change the breaker to a 30 amp 240v breaker?  The run is about 30 feet.  Basically my question is 10 awg appropriate for this application?


texts: How do I use DAP plastic wood filler safely?

texts:
I'm trying to install a storm door on an outdoor patio in my house. There are a number of holes in the wood from previous screen door installations I think:

I want to make sure the wood will hold before installing the screen door so I don't run into problems down the road.
The DAP plastic wood filler came recommended to me from my hardware store for this purpose, but it has some concerning info in the technical bulletin including a flashpoint of 82 degrees.
Couple of question about how to use this safely:

Does this need to be stored at cool temperatures once opened? If I keep it on an outdoor patio in summer, is that a safety issue?
When done, can I dispose of excess product in household trash or is special disposal required?
When washing tools with mineral spirits (as recommended), can I wash that in a sink or will I run into plumbing problems?
When resealing the can of this, is it fine to use a rubber mallet like I would for a can of paint?


texts: How can I tell if this is a split bus panel with no main breaker?

texts: Looking for the main shut off or to confirm this is a split bus. Thanks!


texts: Rewire a ceiling fan, ceiling fan on, not controllable by switch

texts:
Friends with electrical background could use some help. The top drawing was the original of how the electrical ran in my wall. The thing I messed up and did was not take a picture of the switch before I dismantled it. There was a jumper in the switch box, connecting what wires I don't know. This switch would only control the ceiling fan in our kitchen.

I went to rewire it, which is the new drawing, bottom version and now, the switch for the fan doesn't work, ceiling fan stays on unless you pull chains, and the switch now controls a switch box in my dining room for an outlet and the outside lights. Any idea which wires the jumper would have been for, I think that's all I need to right this ship. Or maybe it's more than that

Sorry, was hoping to post a picture. Original wall wiring was w/b from attic to outlet, w/b from outlet to switch, red, white and black out of switch to fan. Now, in the junction box in my attic, I have the original w/b from the outlet coming in to my junction box, connected to the w/b going to switch, then the w/b coming from switch to the red, white and black, connecting the black and red going to the fan with the black coming from the switch, and the whites connected together as well. My ceiling fan stays on, but not controlled by my switch. Instead, my switch controls another switch box in my dining room. I feel my mess up was not taking a picture of the original switch box, and that the jumper is the key to fixing this problem. I have some childish diagrams I drew and was hoping to be and to post those, but it doesn't seem like that's possible.


texts: Wire size for 100 amp subpanel in detached garage 215' away

texts: What size of wire do I need to run from 200 amp meter panel to 100 amp sub panel in detached garage 215' away?


texts: How deep should piers be for a concrete block fence wall?

texts:
I am wanting to put up a 1.8m high (besser/cinder) block wall that spans 10 meters across our rear boundary. The wall will be tied to both other neighbours walls also.

The council water main runs 1.3 meters away from the boundary wall at a depth of 1.7 meters. This runs parallel to the new proposed block wall and trench.

What depth should the post holes go down to? I assume to the same depth?

Cheers


texts: sanding old plaster wall texture to prepare for mudding

texts: Should I sand/grind old plaster texture before skim-coating?  If so, what is the best tool to use? The goal is to prepare for new smooth walls.


texts:
Our framed corner shower is leaking at the "seam."  At the corner where the two sides meet, the panels seems to be loose.  Whenever I spray water on the glass and framed walls, some water will leak at the corner of the walls.

We are not sure how to "take apart" (if necessary) the walls in order to caulk the corner.  Not sure if that is the correct process either.  We have called the installer, he is not returning our calls. Surprise, surprise.

Note:  water may be coming from where alumininum frame meets the solid surface ledge on top of garden tub.  Water collects in weeping holes in the inside and may be coming out on the outside.  Here are some pictures.  I have taped two areas.  Between the two "horizontal" tape pieces the side and the front seem a bit "loose."  The taped area pointing at each other is the "seam" where I believe the water is coming from.

The frame is made of aluminum.  The shower is standard glass with rubber between glass and frame.  The shower is placed against tile walls.  Top of ledge above garden tub is solid surface material.  Something like "corian."  Unsure exactly what it is made from.


texts:
I have a damaged toilet cistern which is beyond repair. I was wondering if I was to install a new cistern how I would know my new one would be 'compatible' with my current set up? Is there a degree of standardisation such that I can be guaranteed I can install one I buy?

All I really know is my current one is a Twyford 2003 6L model which has a water inlet on the bottom and push button flush.

Any help much appreciated, I'm dying for a dump.


texts:
I have a ceiling fan/light with remote. There are two single-pole switches that control each (fan/light). The fan works on the remote and from the switch.
The light works from the remote and from the switch, BUT the switch needs to be in the off position in order to have the remote dimmer work.
Currently wired as

Ceiling red to black remote in
Ceiling white to white remote in and remote out and to fan
Ceiling black to blue remote out and fan
Remote out black to black fan.

I'm guessing power is ran twice to the light, but can't figure it out. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance.


texts: Is there a way to diagnose ceiling fan 3 speed switch wires?

texts:
I have a Hunter ceiling fan (3 speed with lights, all on one switch) and the pull switch for the fan broke. So, I went to HD and got a replacement switch that looked identical, same volts/amps rating and 45 wires, same as the old one. I thought I hooked up the wires to L, 1, 2, and 3 in the same configuration as the old one, but now the fan won't turn off, and there are only two settings (high/low). Additionally, if I pull the light switch, it arcs and the breaker trips instantly (AFCI breaker). I checked all of the connections and they're good, so it isn't arcing from loose wires. Obviously I must have either wired it differently from the original one or this switch is different than the original one. Is there a way I can diagnose this without just trial and error? Is it even possible to fix, or do I need to get a new fan?

Edit: added a couple of pictures and a layout of the wires; I checked Hunter's website but they don't have a wiring diagram. I did find out that there was a short in the lampholder assembly itself which is/was the problem with the light tripping the breaker... but unless anybody here can help me find a "ze-301t" lampholder (alibaba sells them, minimum of 1000 pcs) then I might just have to get a new fan. For now though, it'd be good if the fan part worked even without the lights. I'll take readings with a multimeter tonight and post them.


texts: Could the black and white wires in a three-wire cable both be used as hots?

texts:
In my detached garage, there is a ??/3 cable (haven't measured to know the gauge, though I'm thinking it's 10..) coming into a fuse box with two circuits. The strange thing is, the third conductor is cut and not being used. The black wire is powering one circuit, and the white is powering another. Both circuits have 30 amp fuses. Is this setup safe? I believe in the main box, there is a double 60 amp breaker powering the garage, but I'm not sure the configuration (it's been a couple months since I've looked at it).

I'm preparing to do some electrical work (add a few outlets and lights) and wanted to make sure I didn't burn down my garage. I was planning on using 12 gauge wire, and put the lights on one circuit and the outlets on the other. I plan on replacing the fuses with 20 amp.

As a side note, if this is a 10/3 cable, is it possible to have 240 in the garage? What kind of amperage could this support if the same cable was powering two 120v circuits?

Sub Panel

Main Panel

UPDATE

Following the advice from the answers listed here, I did a bit of rewiring. The cable run to the garage had no markings on it, but based on a rough measurement using my wire strippers, I'm fairly confident the wires are 10 gauge. I disconnected power and tied the red wire to the ground and verified there was continuity, then got to work. I purchased a 2 pole 30 amp breaker for the main box, along with some wire nuts, a spool of 10 gauge wire, and some fuses.

From what I found online, wire nuts are code compliant inside panels, so I decided to forgo the junction box, since there was a little slack in the cable. I extended the red wire in the main box, and relocated the white wire to the neutral bar. Inside the fuse box, I verified that the "neutral bar" and box were not in contact with each other, then removed all ground wires and connected them with a wire nut. I extended the red wire and hooked it to one of the circuits. Unfortunately, the white wire was not quite long enough to reach the neutral bar, so I had to extend that as well (with red wire, since that's all I had at the time. I plan on replacing this once I get some white wire). Finally, I replaced the 30 amps fuses with 20s, since the wiring in the garage is 12 gauge.

I'm definitely open to comments about my work, seeing as this is the first time I've done something this extensive. I believe it's much more code compliant than before (aside from the red wire extending the neutral, the box not being grounded, and the open hole at the top of the box). If anyone notices anything in the attached photo, please feel free to let me know.

Thanks to everyone who provided input!