texts: What's the term for a rotatable plumbing pipe "union" in the UK?

texts:
I've been searching for a specific plumbing fitting for UK BSPP threaded pipes / devices but I don't know what to call it. I'm not looking for a specific product recommendation, just the terminology.

In the USA I think the correct term for this device would be a "union" - like this example (having female NPT threads):

The specific feature I'm looking for is the ability to rotate the two mating sides to any orientation (axially) but still end up with a rigid joint when you bring them together. To that end, in the above example each half of the union screws onto a pipe and then the two halves are themselves screwed together, sealing with an o-ring.
(Just to be really clear - here's a video)
I don't necessarily need an identical device in BSPP, I just need something that can rotate in an equivalent way. But I don't know what to call it?

I have seen a few items using the term "union", such as the example below, but this is just a single solid piece (I'd call it a pipe nipple in the US):

There is also such a thing as a "bulkhead union" but that also is not equivalent to a US "union".

I have a feeling that this fitting must exist but without knowing what to call it I haven't been able to find one. I've tried coupling, coupler, etc.
In case you're wondering, US and UK pipe threads are totally incompatible so I can't use a local part.
(In particular I actually need one which is male-to-male, but I figured I should understand the basic terminology first!)


texts: Insulating basement that's already framed with electrical run

texts: First, let me own my novice DIY status and say I screwed up. I bought a new house last year in the Indianapolis area and immediately went to work finishing the basement. The builder attached batts of insulation to the top half of the poured concrete walls to just below grade, but that's all. I framed the walls just off those batts -- so several inches from the foundation. Didn't consider any other insulation as I assumed like a novice that I'd just insulate the stud cavities after everything was done. It's only recently I've become aware that the preferred option is rigid foam attached to the concrete walls for moisture control. I've now got a 2000 sf basement fully framed with electrical run and I'm wondering what my best and most cost-effective course of action is for insulation. Thanks for any advice!


texts: 2 PVC Pipes running from unit to basement

texts: I have two 2" PVC pipes running from outside (AC unit) to the inside set up (furnace?). I need to cut these pipes and re run them since they are blocking the water heater which I need to take out. I wasnt sure what they did so didnt want to cut them yet. Is there water in them? Do I just turn off the unit first? When replacing do I use just regular PVC pipe and glue or is the some flex pipe solution? Any help would be great. I added some photos.


texts: How can I secure a table that is hanging off the wall via four screws (2 on each side) from slipping away?

texts:
I have just installed a table that sits on four screws.
Two of the screws are a little tilted and I want to avoid having the table slip off them.
If I could redo this, I would probably use some fasteners but I don't want to rescrew those if I can.
Is there a screw plate or a wire that I could wrap around the ends of the screw to reduce the chances of the table slipping off?
Thanks!!


texts: Can I install a Delta shower valve trim in place of a Moen?

texts: I currently have an old Moen shower valve, and in an ideal world I'd like to replace the trim with a Delta product. I've gathered that shower valves are brand specific, but short of completely replacing the valve and having to mess with the pipes behind the wall, is there any way to do this?


texts: I am wondering why I have an extra hot water supply line under the sink the disappears to the wall.  The thin copper has a needle valve attached to it.  There seems to be one in every room with a sink, i.e. the master bath room has this line in one of the two sinks.


texts:
I was at a big-box home improvement store recently and saw this wire type vs amperage rating chart:

Up through 10ga all the copper wires have the same rating but then they start to diverge. I am particularly surprised that there is a different between NM-B cable and THHN wires... don't NM-B cables use THHN wires as the individual conductors?

According to this chart even alumnium wire has higher capacities than NM-B for most sizes.

And what do you use for a wire that has multiple ratings, like THHN/THWN? Do you use the higher value or the lower value?

Can anyone explain these numbers?


texts:
New first time buyer here! Finally got the keys to the new house! Exciting times! Will be going into it pretty soon!
I bought a Samsung Frame TV 55” for it. I do plan on hanging the tv on the wall. I haven’t done much DIY project and was watching this YouTube video:
https://youtu.be/bdQPmYCD-vk
I’ve got a few questions:
1 - I was looking at few tv mounting advice and I saw someone say you shouldn’t hang a TV solely on drywall? It should also be on a stud. Is this correct?
2 - in the vid did he drill everything on a stud? I watched it several times but don’t seem to catch whether or not he drilled through the stud for the toggle bolts.
3 - which size toggle bolts should I get? He drilled the hole with a .5” bit. Am I right in assuming I can use any bolts?
4 - other than using a stud finder, how do I make sure I don’t drill through a pip or something? And how far do I drill through a stud? (This probably sounds pretty stupid but I just wanna make sure)


texts: Where should the first I-joist be set parallel to the rim board?

texts:
I have a question about I-Joist layout in framing.  I know that I-Joists are not strong to resist squishing, so that means rim board must be used to help that vertical load, but when you run all your I-Joists the same way, what do you do about the very first joist? No matter what you need rim-board there on the edge of the sill plate, but then do you move 16" over (if doing 16" oc layout) to start the first I-Joist, or do you actually run rim board, sister an I-Joist right next to it, so technically the first I-Joist is centered 2-5/8" from the start of the floor, and then of course the next joist is 16" O.C. from the start of the floor.

I have seen it done with the i-joist sistered against the rim board that is running parallel to the rest of the joists, but not just using rim-board and skipping over the 16" to start the first joist.


texts: I want to replace two switches controlling one track with one

texts: The track has four lights on it. Two lights are controlled seperatly by two switches running to the same track. I am upgrading to LED, and want to only use one switch for the track. Can I simply cap and tape off the extra black and white wires, and ignore the extra switch, or will this cause some other problem, like power continuing through the wires.


texts:
A construction site close to my house made their footer by just digging a ditch around the perimeter of the building and poured concrete directly in the dirt with no wooden form. I'm just curious if that's the proper way to do it or should it have a wooden form that comes off when cured.

P.S.: Picture pending


texts: what kind of amperage does this heater draw?

texts:
I can't make sense of this chart.  For the column "Drop 9" with 9kw output, what kind of amperage does the heater draw?

Here's another diagram if that helps.


texts: What size wire for 150 A main electrical service

texts:
Recently had the electrical panel upgraded and relocated. The electrician showed me the main wires coming from the street (in to the meter) and indicated they were 1/0 aluminum. The  breaker panel had a 125 A main breaker, and he put in a 150 A main breaker on the new panel (the new panel is a 200 A panel). He replaced the wires from the meter to the panel with new copper (forget the gauge). From what I've seen around here on DIY.SE, though, 1/0 Al is sufficient for only 125 A, not 150. Should I be worried?

I'm in the Houston, Texas metro area.

We never tripped the 125 A breaker, but did add a 50 A 240 V receptacle for EV charging. No EV yet, and its breaker is off, so we're not drawing any more current than we used to. I'm not really worried about an immediate problem, only once we get the EV.


texts: Why would turning off a fridge/freezer for 24 hours then turning it back on make it work again?

texts:
A family member's fridge freezer is now working well after being turned off for about 24 hours and then back on.
Before, it was not cooling items, reading around 20 degrees Celsius.
Now, after being turned back on after being left off for 24 hours, it has reached around 2 degrees Celsius for the fridge and -18 (minus 18) degrees celsius for the freezer.
Is this remedy a common thing for fridge freezers?
The model is a Hotpoint FF FL1810P.
Thank you.
P.S. of course, the food inside needs to be kept cool and frozen to remain safe for consumption - and in my case this was transferred to others' working fridge freezers temporarily.


texts: What are the risks of sending low-current neutral through the ground wire?

texts:
I have an existing switch that controls an outlet.  I'd like to replace it with a smart-home switch, which requires a neutral wire to power the switch itself.  However, there is no neutral wire at the switch.  It's infeasible to run a new wire because the switch wasn't run with conduit, and I'm not willing to tear up my walls.

It's my understanding that I could use ground as neutral for low power applications such as this.  Are there any risks, either safety or electrical reliability of doing so?


texts: Identifying unspliced pass-through wires in a receptacle box

texts:
I have existing 1/2" emt conduit servicing 20 amp receptacles connected to a single pole 20 amp breaker.  So there are 3 12G wires, 1 black, 1 white and 1 green in the existing conduit.

I'd like to add a single 240V 20 amp receptacle in a separate box at the end of this conduit run, by running  black and red 12g wires back to a separate 20 amp double pole breaker.  These wires will pass through unbroken through each box.  Can I just mark the 2nd black wire with say, brown tape to keep it identified?  Or does the 2nd black wire need to be a different color, say brown?  Thanks!


texts: Can I use one 3-phase circuit to power 2 separate machines?

texts:
NYC. We have 208V "Wye" 3-phase.

I have two devices - a dryer and a water heater.  Each takes 208V single-phase.  I am also considering an air conditioning unit that will also take 208V.  All are 23A draw for a 30A breaker.

But the conduit to their location already has 6 wires I cannot change, and only 3 wires remaining before we'd have to pull out all the wires and upsize for a 310.15(b)(3)(a) derate -- and the conduit won't physically fit that.

My question is: Can I run a single 3-phase circuit (3 wires, neutral not needed)... and wire the dryer from pole L1 to L2, and the water heater from L2 to L3?

I know how to do that with a subpanel... my question is how to do it without a subpanel.  Can I put those 2-3 loads on one circuit?  How would I size the breakers?


texts: Can I move the electric breaker panel a little, and put in smaller closet?

texts:
I have a 1950s ranch with open plan, on concrete foundation. One side of the galley kitchen is freestanding (walls don't go to ceiling), and at the end of it is a "closet" containing a sub-panel. This closet is really a pantry...I have to move many things to gain access to panel. Want to convert into a semi-island, by spinning the panel 180 degrees and build a little broom closet around it, to run flush with the edge of counter top. I've read in other threads that the space for a panel needs to be 30" x 36" at minimum, which is much too big, and bigger than the current 24 x 24 it's in now.

Given the limitations of foundation and space, any chance I can play loose with code/standards and make the closet ~ 18" W X 14" D ?

Do I have to put it in a closet at all? Could I put it on a wall instead, maybe hang a picture over it to hide it? The other panel is on a bedroom wall (not in closet).

Based on all helpful comments received, here's how I could proceed:
1. Flip the panel 180 so it's on the "outside" wall.
2. 18-24 inches from the corner of outside wall, bump out 8-12 inches to allow for refrigerator being flush with face of galley, and run the island counter top flush with the bump.
3. Extend bumped area below the panel for a more finished look. (UNLESS CODE DICTATES OTHERWISE, in which case the notched area would extend all the way to the floor)???

I have ideas on how to pretty up the panel area by boxing it in with wood that's hinged around the corner, so when open it's flush to panel wall, allowing for the required work space...but that's another topic.


texts: Can I stack new beam to the top of old beam to extend span?

texts:
I have appropriately sized an LVL to extend a span by 3ft as well as assured the column support to the foundation at the new column.

EDIT: The existing 12 ft span is carried by a 4x10, the new span is 15 ft and would be carried with the appropriate full-length LVL

The existing simple span is a 4x10 beam with 2x8 ceiling joists.
It had been my intention to build the temporary support walls, remove the existing beam, place the new LVL beam and re-hang the joists.

A competent framer told me that I could save work by setting the new LVL on top of the old beam then connect them with metal fasteners. In this way, I would only need to hang a few additional rafters from the new beam and would not need to build temporary walls or remove the existing beam.

The LVL is oversized so the additional weight of the 4x10 is negligible.

This method stands to reason in my mind and I would likely add some timber to keep the beam from yaw/roll anyhow.

Is this a common/acceptable practice? It seems perfectly plausible to me but I had never heard of doing this before.


texts: Metering a 240V 40A circuit with an Efergy Engage meter

texts:
I have a single-phase, 240V, 40A circuit (on a 50A breaker) connected to a NEMA 14-50 plug (these are words my electrician used when I asked him). I use this to charge my electric car. My HOA has asked me to meter my charging usage, for which it seems there are few good options and almost zero inexpensive options.
So I bought an Efergy Engage Hub Kit. Here's a link if you're interested but basically, it's a meter that provides a set of "clamps" that clamp around wires that need to be metered. Unfortunately there are no instructions so I took a stab in the dark. Of the three wires running to my NEMA outlet (red, black, beige) I clamped my meter around the red wire. The readings look ...reasonable but the kit came with an additional clamp (I bought the "single phase" version of the kit) so now I'm wondering if I need to use it.
Specific Question: For someone familiar with this kind of meter, do I need to also have a clamp around the black wire running to my NEMA outlet or is it sufficient to have it on the red wire only?


texts: Is baseboard important? (and 3 choices for trim on wall-to-floor transition)

texts:
I'm pulling out wall-to-wall carpet and installing solid hardwood floor. I am also removing the old baseboard and repairing the bottom of the wall with drywall compound to take out any weird ridges the old baseboard may have left. The way I see it I have 3 choices for edging the floor:

Install the hardwood floor first, then install the baseboard over that.
Install the baseboard first, all the way down to the subfloor. Then install the hardwood floor. Then install shoe molding.
Install the hardwood first, then install just shoe molding over that - no baseboard.

3 seems the easiest. Any drawbacks?


texts: How should I wire a ceiling fan remote where one switch is used to control the fixture?

texts: Ceiling has red, black, white, and ground wire.  Remote box has black and white wires on top (to ceiling) and black, white, and blue wires on the bottom (to fan). The fan has black, white, blue, and ground wire.  The blue wire is for the light.  The instructions that came with the fan tell you to connect all the same color wires, but never addresses the red wire. I called the company and they said to connect the red wire to the blue wires. This works except that in order for the fan to work, the light has to be on. The remote will control the fan speeds, but will not control the light as it should.


texts:
We're looking at installing a natural gas tankless water heater, but the vent option with it (that would be easiest to install through our solid poured walls) would come out about a foot away from the gas meter. The gas company's rule is that the vent can't be within 3' of the meter, so that it doesn't mess with the regulator and such. However, we've seen and heard of the option of coming out there still, but then running the vent up 3' or so with an extension to clear the meter. Is this a working solution or does the vent pipe as well have to be 3' away?

We're not looking to do the gas work ourselves, but I'm still trying to find a plumber who will or has time to. The only one who has looked at it mentioned needing the extension, but said he'd prefer to relocate the vent and told us to figure something out ourselves.


texts: Need advice on how to move forward with self-build conservatory

texts:
I recently bought a self-build conservatory. It is to be built on the foundations of a previous conservatory so the sides, foundations, frontage, and drainage are all there to begin with. Myself and my father bought it as a joint project, I was going to do most of the physical work while my father would take care of the technical side of things (he used to be a builder).

The problem is my father has had a stroke and is therefore unable to oversee the project so I need to get someone in to help erect the various bits of conservatory in line with the specifications. I don't think its a difficult job but I will need someone to help me. So my question is who could I get in to do this and how much do you think it could cost?

Apologies if this question is a little basic but this is my first home improvement project.


texts: What should I do about old cables that have been damaged?

texts:
I was replacing some drywall and noticed the wiring underneath has a couple of surface tears. House is from the sixties, but has been rewired with new Romex, except this circuit. Wire seems to be old type of Romex (cloth covered) and has the marking "HATFLEX NM 14/2". Only the cloth is partially teared-up.

Should I be worried about this? I was considering putting some electrical tape over the damaged sections. Is this ok? What other alternatives do I have?


texts: Protecting tiles from damage caused by child

texts:
I have a one year old at home who takes great pleasure in pulling utensils from kitchen cabinets (which are just a little higher than him) and banging and dragging them on the floor. This has made impressions on the (brand new!) tiles and scratches which we aren't able to get rid off.

How can I protect my tiles from such damage ?

One thought was to lay chair mats (office) but they are of a weird shape and will need more than a few of them to cover a 6' by 10'rectangular tiled kitchen space.

I do not want to curtail his curiosity. Child safety locks are useless as he can simply pull the drawer with his force - bringing down the child safety lock. Now we have resigned to not keeping glassware in the cabinet.


texts:
My fireplace is flanked by 24" depth bookshelf niches.
I want to install a flat-panel TV so that it is flush with the fireplace, so 24" off the back wall.
I'm aware that "full extension" mounts exist that can extend to that full distance. I will probably use one of these to mount the TV. However, I want to be able to pull the TV out into the room (past being flush with the fireplace) and then rotate it toward the viewer. So the combined total distance will be greater than what one on these mounts can offer.
I'd instead like to install a permanent horizontal "pillar" cantilevered off the back wall of the bookshelf. This will bring the TV forward about 20"; the rest will be covered by the extension mount. The near-closed position of the mount will have it flush with the fireplace.
Rough idea below. Studs on the left, pillar, mount, TV.

How should I construct this cantilevered pillar on which I will mount the TV?
The pillar needs to extend forward 20 inches or so. The weight of TV + accessories will be 100-150lb. The mount may extend the TV forward another 18".
Smaller/simpler is better, rather than constructing a large box or major bracing. Metal or wood materials will be considered. The back wall is standard American drywall over 2x4 studs.


texts: Is there a length limit on grounding conductor to ground rod?

texts:
My service panel is over a concrete patio, it was improperly grounded  in the crawlspace. I cannot drive a proper ground rod in the crawlspace so I would like to drive one into the earth on the side of the house. This would place the rod about 20' away.

Is there a limit to the length of the ground conductor from the panel to the rod?


texts: What could be causing a Bosch dishwasher to not heat the water?

texts:
I have a Bosch SHX46a05UC/43 that is not heating the water inside. My first clue something was wrong was that the cycle time was very long (3-4 hours). I'm not sure that it can't heat the water, but in my exploring I've yet to find any hot water inside, regardless of which part of the cycle it's in when I check it.

Any suggestions on what to check next to determine the cause of this issue?


texts: How to wire a light , switch and receptacle

texts:
The light gets hit by power first, then the single pole switch, and lastly the receptacle.

I wire this to my knowledge but only get 98v at max out of the end(receptacle).

I have the wire like this: http://www.buildmyowncabin.com/electrical/wiring-switch-power-into-light.html

And the receptacle onto the switch being the end of circuit.


texts: Finding the temperature sensors in a room

texts: It feels very cold in my workplace. They set the temperature to 70F which is below the comfort level, and it is a nuisance to wear a jacket all the time. I am thinking of locating the temperature sensor and sticking a block of ice(regularly replenished from the refrigerator) over it so that it stops blowing cold air into the room(there is no way to close/seal the vents as they are distributed all over the room). Before somebody gets all judgemental, many coworkers have complained of feeling cold - and we must not forget "saving the planet/energy crisis".Is there any practical way to do this? Would a stud locator work? And in your experience do they install these in an accessible location(not on the ceiling)?


texts: How do I remove 4 pieces of tile in my shower?

texts:
I am replacing my old 3 piece grohe faucets with a one-piece shower faucet.  I need to remove 4 tiles, which will be replaced when the new faucet is installed.

How can I remove the 4 tiles without damaging the tiles I want to keep? I don't want to buy a specialty saw for just a one-time job.

Thank you!


texts: How to remove polyurethane from painted wall

texts:
I forgot to tape around a shelf that I covered with polyurethane and some got on my painted wall.

I'm not sure what kind of paint it is but it will buff off with a wet cloth if you rub it too much, revealing the paper of the drywall sheet.

How can I remove it without removing the paint?


texts: How to make outlet half-hot in this situation?

texts:
Current state: Outlet is completely controlled by light switch, top and bottom switch on and off from this switch.

Desired state: Only top of outlet is controlled by light switch, bottom to remain on at all times--even when light switch is flipped on or off.

Failed attempt: Tried to make it half-hot by clipping the tab on one side, but this resulted in just disabling the bottom, so it was always off, whereas the top would still go on and off depending on the switch.

Any way to make this work without running wiring differently from the switch?


texts: What internet-connected home security system options exist?

texts:
Background: Old, Hard-to-use Home Security System

We moved into a house with an existing "wired" home security system. This system includes an circa-1991 panel from Ademco (model 4140).

The wires are in place; the sensors work. We could use it "as is".

The UI on the panel however, lacks the user friendliness one would expect in 2010. So we looked at upgrading the control panel and the keypads.

Here's the question:
I'm looking for a wired panel that also has ethernet or 802.11.n (g/b, i.e. wifi) connectivity plus a webserver so that I can check it from my phone.

Specifically:

Wi-fi connectivity
Embedded Web server
Messaging capability when intrusion happens ("Rear Door Open")
Secure (or at least as secure as my network)

Nothing from the major manufacturers (Ademco/Honeywell & GE) offer any wi-fi, internet-base d monitoring/embedded web servers/etc. (Actually one does, but the details are really murky. It's clearly not for home users and they offer very little technical information)

The situation  reminds me of blu-ray players circa 2003 ago: they had no network connectivity. A few years later some had an ethernet port. Today, 3Q 2010, many $200 units have built-in 802.11n.

Summary
When will internet-connected home security systems hit the streets?


texts: What is involved in fixing a break in a frost-free faucet?

texts:
I have an exterior frost-free faucet that has sprung a leak. You can see the hole on the bottom side of the copper pipe in the image below.

I am trying to determine if this is a job I want to take on myself, but before I can do that, I need to know what all goes into this job.

Is the distance between the outside wall and the elbow a standard length? Or will I have to custom fit this to length? It looks to me like there was some soldering that took place on the original job, is this standard?

Is there any other thing that an experienced plumber and/or DIY person would advise me of before stating into this fix?

(Full Size inside photo)


texts: How do I attach a carpet runner down a staircase with a turn in it?

texts:
I need to install a carpet runner down a staircase.  This is a typical installation with the brass bars in the corner between the tread and riser to hold it down.  The difficulty is that the staircase has a turn near the bottom where the steps are triangular in shape.

What is the best practice in such an installation?


texts:
Some time ago, I asked this question.  The problem I had was that the pressure in my central heating system was dropping, and I couldn't find the leak in the system.  I'm now convinced that I don't have a leak.

I've heard that cold weather can cause heating pressure to drop, and this relates to the overflow pipe from the heating system.  So my follow up questions are:

Is this true?  Can something outside the house freezing cause the pressure inside to drop (and if so, why)?
How can this be fixed?


texts: No clue what happening with this dimmer connection

texts:
Do you know what is happening in this electric box?
A red, white, and blue wire come in, and a red and white go to the receptacle.
The red and white complete a circuit and the blue and white complete a circuit, i.e. i light up a nightlight with these.
The white in is hard wired to the white out.
The blue in is connected to the black input on the dimmer switch.
The red, and this is what is weird, is split off, connecting to the red out, and connecting to the red wire into the dimmer.
Anyone know what's going on here?


texts: Will a double pole, 240V thermostat work here and here? Wiring for 1.5v old brain

texts:
Facts: Existing heater circuit, 30 amps, 240V has two WALL HEATERS AND two thermostats in two different rooms. (For the furnace-focused,  milliamp minds, you can move on to another question). ;)
Thermostats have been removed from their box locations.
In dining room I had a 240v thermostat,similar to the Honeywell TL8230A1003. This junction box contains three romex cables: 10-2 w ground for all. Line in is upper right black wire pigtailed from twisted blacks. Load #2 goes to living room thermostat and load #3 goes to the King EFW2440, 240V dining room wall heater. The thermostat was installed by an acquaintance a decade or so ago with neutrals not tied together but used as separate returns for the two black wires. I was concerned about this...Box may need to be redone as it is recessed 1/2" into the wall and there is no contact between box and drywall.(Will look into an extension ring but just want a bigger box). New 240V King EFW2440 wall heater under warranty just installed.Its wattage can be adjusted. Were the neutrals supposed to be used as two sets of wires in this installation?
(Insert picture here) doesn't work on my cell phone...brain has 0 volts again.
In the living room junction box, it had a similar 120v thermostat there that lights up. Think the two thermostats got switched by mistake at installation. There are two romex cables, 10-2 w ground. This thermostat controlled an old but good 1998 240v king electric EFW2440 wall heater, whose wattage cannot be adjusted per King. I will be changing this from a 120V thermostat to a new, 240V, 2-pole, Honeywell (same model). In this box the 120v thermostat red wires were nutted one each to each of the white neutrals also. Black to blacks. No o issues despite it being a 120V...
Is a 2-pole, 240v thermostat appropriate for this location? I wanted 2 poles to be able to fully shut off the power in summer. Wiring here seems straightforward.
(Insert picture of brain in frying pan with wires coming out). ;)


texts: Why do I measure 12VAC on old thermostat wires?

texts:
I'm installing a nest thermostat in my house - it's the UK version with a heatlink. I have successfully wired the heat link into my combi-boiler, disconnecting two existing wires in the process.

I have a thermostat in a different room (Honeywell CM707) that I've removed from the wall. There were two wires connected to it.

This is the wiring diagram for the thermostat:

From this I am expecting that the two wires I disconnected from the boiler are the two that connected to the old thermostat.

However: I tried measuring the voltage across the two wires that were coming out of the wall - when the multimeter was in DC mode it registered zero, but in AC mode it registered 12V. Am I right in thinking this means they cannot be the wires that I disconnected from the boiler? IE if A and B in the diagram was where I was measuring the voltage, and T1 and T2 were completely disconnected from anything, I should not get a voltage across A and B, right?

To me this is a given but I was wondering if there was something I didn't understand about the way multimeters work when they were on AC settings!

EDIT: this is the wiring diagram from my boiler - the wires I removed were in the points labelled 1 & 2 (there was no link cable).


texts: I have a wall light attached to a switch.  There are 2 black wires and 1 white wire.  The fixtures as one white white and one black wire.  How do I connect


texts: so I just brought a new projector mount but the screw spacing on it is too wide for our studs. I’m just wondering What the best way to mount this is. The mount will hold a 8kg projector btw. Thanks heaps!


texts: I have a 2 yr old Bosch dishwasher that does not drain into the sink drain but straight down into a pipe in the ceiling below.  That pipe has the proper P trap etc and worked well for my previous dishwasher but with the Bosch there is apparently something different that makes this drain a challenge.  At first I was told it was siphoning and would not work, thus why my dishes were never clean, then I was told if I raised the drain line above the drain pipe, it would fix that. Did that and while the dishes were still not clean enough, it did seem to work(ish).  Problem is now it has plugged twice, giving me an error code on the dishwasher.  I think there is too much of a step down in pipe size so I am thinking of providing a bigger pipe to drain straight into the ABS P trap.  Will this fix my problem?  Any thoughts as I have been fiddling with this for 2 yrs.


texts:
Can someone help me decipher this picture?  When I had the house built, the builder roughed in a bathroom for later use.  The pipes in this picture are

A 2" pipe, possible a vent with a T connector (facing the wrong way) already on it?
A pipe with a cap.  Cap measures 4.5".  Maybe for toilet?
A huge pipe with a cap.  Cap measures 6.25".  Maybe for shower drain?
A pipe with a cap.  Cap measures 2.5".  Maybe Sink drain?  Seems really close to #3.

number 1 looks like it's capped and not a clean out, which leads me to believe it was a vent and that it seems like the adapter is facing the wrong way.  Is there an easy way to turn it the right way?


texts: Why am I failing to connect this simple kitchen sink pipe?

texts:
Hi all I'm having trouble reconnecting this L shaped pipe to the main pipes under the sink. No matter how I arrange or push or connect the slip nuts, they seemed to get jammed by the washer/band around the pipe chokes. And thus the pipes leak.

There are some washer/band things which I believe go inside the slip nuts, example:

But when I do this I cannot screw the slip nut all the way to the sink hole above, example:

The best I can do is above, with the band being below the slip nut which I'm sure is not how it is meant to be.

How do I connect the pipe correctly so it fits to the sink and the other pipes that go through the main drain? Is there some technique I'm not doing?


texts: How could I use 40lb Propane tanks in a residential hook up?

texts:
I have two 100 gallon tanks from suburban propane but end up using so little, that I am charged approx $5.30 per gallon. I am reasonably sure that I could use two 40lb tanks and do the legwork myself without much inconvenience but I have no idea if such a setup is advisable or even possible.

Right now, the propane is only used in my stove/range and as a rarely used backup to my electric heat.


texts: Removing router bit that is stuck with damaged shaft

texts:
I got this router from a family member for free but the bit is stuck. It's waaaay over tightened. Trying to get it out just damages the shaft (which I already managed to do). What is the best approach to loosen this and get the bit out?
Thanks!
EDIT: Following several suggestions, I tried using the pin with a bigger wrench. I tried before but only with the supplied wrench. Here is the result. It is waaay over tightened or there is some other reason why I can't loosen it. That's is way I asked for help here.
EDIT 2: thanks for all the suggestions. I will try the different approaches and report back.


texts: How to wire a 3-way dimmer switch in box with three cables

texts:
I was thinking I would replace one of our dumb switches with an Eve smart switch.  I opened it up to make sure it had a neutral wire, but it was wired so poorly that as I pulled on the old switch, most of the connections came undone.  In the process, though I discovered that it was a 3-way switch, and so I can't use an Eve smart switch.

So I decided to just replace the old dumb switch.  But the wiring of the box is more complicated than I'd ever seen.  So I'm not quite sure how to rewire it.  It has three cable coming in to the box.  The top-right cable has a ground, black, white and red wire.  The bottom-right cable just has a ground, black and white wire, as does the bottom-left cable.

The ground wires are all connected.

The two bottom white wires are connected to each other still, though it's possible the top white wire was connected but I'm not sure - it could have been connected to the switch instead.

The top-right black wire is connected to the bottom-left black wire.

The top-right red wire is free (and so I think was connected to the switch).

The bottom-right black wire is free (and so I think it was connected to the switch).

I'm trying to re-attach a Lutron DV-603P 3-way dimmer switch.  It has a ground, a black wire and two red wires.  I've seen some wiring diagrams for it when used as both a two-way switch and a 3-way switch, but none of the diagrams use a 3-cable box - just a simple 2-cable one.

I tried to simply wire it up as a 2-way switch, connecting the ground, and the switch's black to the bottom-right black, and the switch's first red to the top-right red, leaving the switch's second red wire un-connected (and the top-right white un-connected as well).  That didn't work, largely because I think that it should indeed be wired as a 3-way switch.

So does anyone know how I should re-wire it as a 3-way switch in to a 3-cable box?

Here's a diagram of the wires as they exist, though as I said, some of the free wires might have been attached to some of the other wires and come loose when I removed the old switch.

And here is the back of the switch itself.

Here's a photo of the box, and then a close up of the upper part and the bottom parts.


texts: How do you build a portable lightweight frame for trees?

texts:
I have fruit trees that vary in size that need frost protection in the winter and bird protection in the summer. I have been hanging frost cloth and bird netting over the trees using the branches as support. That is not always effective for various reasons and so I want to build some frames that will stand over the trees over which I can drape the frost cloth or bird netting.

The structure/frame does not need to be more than 8 feet tall and around 4 to 5 feet wide.

What materials would be best to create this and how would I assemble it?

Additional considerations:

Location: Phoenix, AZ
The frames need to be portable and can't be fixed in the ground.
Would be amazing if the height and width could be adjusted but I feel that this is an elaborate and non-essential requirement.
Need to be able to "stake" the frame during monsoon season.


texts:
Should I do anything about this? The crack is about 1/16 inch and four or five feet long and first appeared mid-winter. The driveway was poured just over a year before the crack appeared.

I've heard there is a product that is water like and seeps into the crack to prevent water getting in and widening the crack once winter sets in but I haven't gone to the hardware store to look for it.


texts: basement floor crack widening in newly built home - is this a problem?

texts:
Our home was new construction and the basement floor was poured around 1.5 years ago. The builder installed control joints in several locations in the basement slab. Several of these joints have widened. The widest crack is now around 1/8th inch wide with certain sections as wide as 3/16th inch wide. When i shine a flashlight down this wide section it looks as if i see gravel below although i'm not sure if that is just rough concrete since the floors are supposed to be 4 inches thick.

Is this widening normal? Should i seal these cracks to prevent moisture and soil gasses from getting into the house?


texts:
Quick question that came to my mind earlier today:

When installing a water system (concealed installation), why does one use pipes. It seems to me that hoses would be easier to install, more flexible and might reduce effects like rushing sounds.


texts: Range hood exterior vent close to window?

texts:
I'm looking to install a vented range hood for the electric range in my kitchen.

The kitchen has only one outside wall, which is mostly window, with a cast-iron radiator and a chimney for my oil-fired home-heating boiler for good measure.  There's only about 6 inches between the top of the window and the soffit.

So... Are there any code or practical restrictions on how close the external vent for a range hood can be to a window? Either horizontally through the wall to one side of the window, or downward through the soffit over or beside the window?

(The house is solid brick, circa 1920, Toronto Canada)


texts:
I have a 3 way setup, with a Dimmer Switch and a simple switch. I want to replace the Dimmer Switch with a timer switch.

The dimmer switch I'm removing has 4 wires: Black (hot), Green (ground), and two red. One red looks like it's going to a black wire in the system (load?).

The new timer switch has 4 wires as well, Black(hot), Green(ground), Red(labeled Load) and White (neutral).

How can I wire the new timer switch in place of the old dimmer switch.

House was just built last year.
Thanks!


texts: Can I install junction box on a basement rim joint from inside

texts:
I am pulling wire from my basement for an outside receptacle. I drilled a hole through the rim joist. To secure pvc pipe from inside, I wanted to install a junction box on inside, and use a metal box with middle 1/2 in opening that sits on the joist with the PVC male plug.

Is it OK to have a junction box on rim joist code wise?


texts: Why did a failing water heater emit an electrical burning odor?

texts: Our electric water heater seems to have burned out, but the breaker didn't flip off. My husband smelled an acrid burning smell in the house and traced it to the water heater, which is in the bathroom. He turned off the breaker. There had been signs the heater was failing and we had a new one on order -- age, rust drips on the outside of the heater, having to turn the hot water up during a shower. He couldn't find anything that looked like it had burned and the smell still lingers in the bathroom. He put a new heater in yesterday and it works fine. We're wondering what would have caused the burning smell and should we still be looking for the cause? Any suggestions?


texts:
I run an EX Military genset MEP004A on 240V/50Hz. It has no voltage regulator and i get supply from the reconnector on L1/L3 which is 240V. all was running fine until when the mains power came back. I switched off the generator. By error I switched on breaker on the generator. Luckily the house main breaker automatically switched off protecting. Now the generator is producing 180 volts instead of 240 volts. what could have been burnt?
please assist.
jeph.


texts: Is this horizontal drain pipe under kitchen sink a problem?

texts:
My double kitchen sink drains into a 2” white plastic DWV pipe that traverses approximately 4-5’ of distance without any slope at all. I used a level to confirm my visual observation: there is indeed no slope to the pipe.
Here’s where it starts:

And here’s where it traverses the next cabinet:

The horizontal pipe seen in both photos has no slope at all. My question: does this look wrong / problematic / against code?
For context, here’s how this pipe attracted attention to itself. My sink backed up Friday night. I removed the P-trap and drained everything. Put it back together, sent some Green Gobbler and went to sleep.
Woke up Saturday morning, ran hot water and saw it back up.
Took apart the P-trap and drained everything again. Used a rubber coupling to attach my shop vac just downstream of where the trap used to be. Nothing came out, and the vac sucked air from the vent stack. Put it all together, plugged the disposal opening, ran water until it backed up and vacuumed through the sink drain. Vac took out all of the water and then sucked air through the vent stack again.
Snaked it with my 24’ x 1/4” auger. Put P-trap back in, ran the faucet for an hour: nothing backed up. Ran the dishwasher: it backed up into the sink. Drained & snaked again. Sent more Green Gobbler overnight.
Woke up Sunday morning, flushed with hot water and did not observe a back up. Currently contemplating whether to run the dishwasher.


texts: What is the best way to dissolve tape that won't peel off?

texts: Scotch tape? Duct tape? What about other types of tape (like the tape they put on supermarket labels?)


texts: I moved into this house about 10 years ago, I noticed on the furnace that one of the breakers for the electric coils is off with a note saying "Leave breaker off". After cleaning out the blower for the first time, and the electric coils of course my curiosity got the best of me and I turned it on. After the smell of burnt dust from the sitting coil its running fine. It's been completely off for years.. can't believe I never noticed it. Why would somebody keep half of the furnace off?


texts: Does primer lose its bond surface after a period of time?

texts:
I read somewhere that you should paint a few days after applying primer or the primer may lose its ability to bond with the paint.

Is this true and what happens if you have to wait for a week after applying the primer before you can  paint ?


texts:
My existing wood fascia is about as old as the house (~12 years) and its time to scrape, sand and repaint as I have some serious peeling in some parts. This is AZ so no boards are rotting though. It looks like the boards were pretty rough and furry when installed so a good sand and prime may make them last longer than 10 years, I dunno (10 years is probably when they should have been painted).

I'm considering getting a composite trim board so I never have to do this again (or at least do it less frequently), anything that would be around $1-$2 per linear foot to replace 1x6 trim board would be good. Does anyone have experience with a good alternative material that will be lower maintenance? Or is it just a better deal to scrape and sand the existing wood if it's in good shape? Other than some warping that I'm going to have to fix all the boards appear to be in decent shape. I'm willing to pay a few hundred bucks for alternative boards if it means I don't have to do this again in 10 years.


texts: Replacing old fan switch with no ground terminal

texts:
I am going through my house I just purchased that was built in the 1950s and replacing all of the light switches as the old ones are faded and quite unsightly. I noticed when I pulled out my first switch that it only has two terminals and is missing a ground terminal; however, there is bare copper wire in the electrical box along with a neutral wire. The copper wire is coming out of the same bundle of wires entering the box as show in the picture below. Pictures attached below

So my question is now that I am installing new switches that contain a ground terminal, should I use that bare copper wire as ground? Or is that possibly used to ground the electrical box, for the fan, or something else down the line?
Thanks!


texts: Neutral wires are burning hot, saw an ember

texts: Removed the outlet and the three connected neutral wires were insanely hot. Have an extension cord running a heater, could it be the draw or do I just need a new outlet?


texts:
My wife called me home from work because the lights in several rooms stopped working.

I came home expecting a tripped circuit breaker or GFCI, but I found no such thing.  Instead, after pulling out my non-contact voltage detector, I discovered that there was indeed voltage on the lines, both in the hot and neutral portions of my wall receptacles.  I checked the lights and they were hot, even with the switch off, which led me to believe again that the neutral and hot were shorted.

I poked around and the only thing plugged in was a surge protector for my TV and various entertainment system devices.  I unplugged all of the devices, leaving the surge protector plugged in, and nothing changed.

I unplugged the surge protector to check that receptacle, and everything seemed fine, so I plugged it back in.  The TV standby light came on, and after checking all of my plugs and lights were working again and the short seemed to be gone.

So, should I be worried?  Was the surge protector just doing its job, or is it bad?  Should I be concerned that the breaker did not trip?


texts: Better looking raceway for under the patio?

texts: Is there a better looking conduit that would be per code that I can place under the patio root. It will be visible, and the gray sch. 40 looks bad. Is there anything better looking?


texts: How to install an Insteon switch on a multi-way circuit

texts:
I am attempting to install either an Insteon ToggleLinc Switch (#2466SW) or a Insteon Micro On/Off (2443-222) to control two ceiling fans with lights. The builder/previous owner created a multi-way circuit with 6 wall switches to control the fans. Both fans are controlled at the same time by the switches. I hired an electrician and he was not able to figure out how to get one of the Insteon devices wired in to replace one of the wall switches.

From what I have read using the ToggleLinc switch in a multi-way circuit requires that all of the existing switches be replaced with Insteon ToggleLinc switches. Can anyone verify that?

If that’s correct, is it possible to replace one of the 6 switches with the Insteon Micro On/Off switch?

Attached are 3 photos of the wiring to the existing switch that I want to replace. If I can use the Micro On/Off switch, does it matter which of the six switches I attach it to? A friend told me that it might make a difference I were to connecting to the first or last switch in the circuit.

Thanks in advance.
switch1


texts:
A given meter shows it is rated "120V 15(100)A".

Why are there two amp ratings one being in parentheses? Is this meter rated 15 or 100A or both?
When do the 15A apply, and when do the 100A?


texts: What pipe/adapter do I need to make this sink connect to this P trap?

texts:
I'm getting ready to connect a custom vanity to a P-trap and I'm not sure what kind of pipe/connection/adapter I need.

The P-trap looks like this:

(note that it won't be sticking out that far from the wall.  This was just a test shot for example purposes.

The sink I'm planning to use looks like this:

Here's the bottom view of it:

The sink drain hole is approximately 2 inches in diameter.

The P-trap pipe diameter is 1.5 inches in diameter.

So my question at this point is: What material/component do I need to connect these two?  Is there a "drain insert" that's made for this type of thing?  Or should I find some sort adapter/coupling to connect the stuff together?

How can I connect these two?


texts:
Does the quality of paint or lack of skill cause roller marks?
The painter is blaming the quality of paint not his skills.


texts: With a vapor barrier installed, how critical is slashing/destroying faced insulation underneath?

texts:
After installing a vapor barrier, forgot to slash/destroy the faced batts of insulation within some wall cavities and/or ceiling areas.  Am I in "OMG deep doo-doo" for not slashing the batts, or should I hassle with removing any/all vapor barrier for destroying the faced insulation?

My guess, happens all the time with faced insulation installs, and try not to worry too much unless it's a violation of building codes and/or the environment is unique.  (eg. Most people would likely entirely forget and move on.)


texts: How do we properly clean a tumble dryer?

texts:
There were a couple of chocolates not removed from the pockets of my trousers when I threw it into the washing machine for a spin.

After the wash, I threw the trousers (among other clothes) into the tumble dryer for an hour and a half.

When I took out my clothes, the entire tumble dryer reeks of chocolate. I've cleared the filter of the tumble dryer (there were literally small broken pieces of chocolates and wrappers stuck there) but it seems as though most of the chocolate had melted onto the walls of the tumble drum. I suspect that some small broken chocolate pieces had even made their way into the gaps separating the tumble drum and the tumble box itself.

In short, the whole thing is in a mess.

What's the best way to properly clean a tumble dryer?


texts: If I blow insulation everywhere in my attic except the door trap, will heat escape through it?

texts:
I want to blow insulation into my attic. The door into my attic is on the floor and made up of a large board which doesn't have hinges. I have to push the door up and slide it over in order to gain access to the attic. That means when I blow in insulation, I can't blow any in on the door or in the area that I will slide the door over to.

Will this gap in insulation cause major hot or cold air loss? Are there alternatives to this?


texts: How do I mount my TV on my wall with poor stud location?

texts:
My wall studs are in an inconvenient space, I had a spot on the wall where I envisioned the TV to go, but the location of the studs would not have this tv be in the center of it, and there is other furniture blocking if I put the tv up on the location of the studs.

My TV is only 45 lbs, although 55 inches, can this go into drywall? A lot of drywall only things I see recommend around 50-60lbs before things get questionable.

Additionally, I could get a wall mount that allows for more flexibility

any insight into a solution for this dilemma is appreciated


texts: Why don't my bathroom outlets work after an appliance power surge?

texts: My wife plugged a heater in the bathroom it zapped the lights and receptacles in the bathroom. Checked the breaker it was not tripped. Changed the outlets in the bathroom still no power. All outlets show hot when I put tester to it  but no power to the outlets . I have two outlets and a light switch that is not working one outlet in my bedroom and the outlet in the bathroom and a light switch. All are on one wall..


texts: Convert USB powered lamp to a remote controlled lamp

texts:
I have a bedside lamp that I own which is powered via USB and has a On/Off switch at the back. This is fairly inconvenient to turn on and off from bed.

Is there any way to adjust the hardware of this lamp to add on a remote control functionality to turn it on rather than a manual switch on the lamp itself?

The exact lamp I have is found here


texts:
I am trying to put a flourescent light fixture into our pantry into an existing fixture/junction box. The previous light was taken down by some previous help I had and they had made a couple of comments about the wiring. They aren't here now, but I am ready to put up my new light. To the best of my knowledge, this fixture is just controlled with one light switch. This is an older house and during this kitchen remodel, we have found several old locations under the drywall where previous switches were. However, the wiring into this box all looks new from the time the house was gutted in 1997. But we have only ever used one switch to control the light.

Here is the description of what is coming in:
Three cables are coming in. Each cable is two wire (white, black, ground).
G1 + G2 + G3 are connected.
B1 + B2 + W3 are connected.
W1 + W2 are connected.
B3 is by itself (capped).

The light switch just has one cable to it.

Just trying to sort out what might be happening up there. I'll probably need to get up in the attic and see if I can determine where the other cables go.


texts: Trying to replace an external door threshold. I have tried removing the screws with a screw gun with no luck. I have tried using an impact driver and hammer with no luck. The heads of the screws are rusty. I can't tell if they are rusted in place or really tight. I thought for sure the impact driver would work but they don't budge. Any ideas? I have added a couple of pictures of the screws causing the grief. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Solar 240 VAC source and load wires sharing a conduit

texts:
I'm planning on installing a new electric oven and solar panels on my house soon.  Given the location of everything relative to my electrical service panel, both the panels and the oven will need to run along the same path, so I'd prefer to install a single conduit to run all the wires, and branch off near the end of the conduit to either the oven or the panels.  The other end will branch off to either the AC shut off (for the solar panel wires) or go directly to a breaker (for the oven wires).

The solar panel wires are already at 240 VAC, because the panels have microinverters mounted directly underneath them.  The oven is a 240 VAC appliance.

Does NEC allow such an arrangement?


texts:
I have a strong odor coming from my "hoarder" neighbor upstairs. It is seeping through a drywall column that houses a metal ventilation shaft (in the corner of my bedroom closet).

I am thinking of opening the drywall column, inserting a plywood shelf, insulating the shelf and the inside of the column and then filling the space above the shelf (between the drywall and the metal shaft) with 20 lb of odor-absorbing charcoal.

Is this a reasonable approach? What would be the best material to insulate the drywall against the odor: foam sealant, waterproof paint or something else?


texts: What's the proper way to add spacers between deck beam and joists

texts:
I have a 20 year old deck. One of the foundation posts (4x4) has sunken about an inch.  The 4x4 post goes into the ground where it is affixed in concrete.

The 4x4 post is notched at the top and two carriage bolts hold it to the beam.  The beam is two 2x10s.

I'm thinking the best way to correct the issue is to jack up the three joists that are sunken and put spacers between them and the beam. Is this good?  If so, what should I use as a spacer?  If not, any suggestions?


texts: Samsung RS275 fridge: no water filter indicator reset

texts:
The water filter replacement indicator on our RS275 refrigerator will not reset. Things I tried so far:

pressing the filter reset button for three seconds (it beeps, but the indicator light stays on)
replacing the filter (no effect)
pressing the ice type+child lock buttons (other Samsung fridges reset the filter replacement indicator this way).

Any ideas?


texts: What are the building regulations in the UK for fitting a light in a bathroom?

texts:
What designs of lights are allowed?

When do I need to get a building regulation inspection?


texts: how to repair Magic Eraser quartz Countertop Damage

texts: Used a Mr clean Magic Eraser on a quartz Countertop which caused dullness to the surface. Can I bring back the shine?


texts: What sort of handle would fit this main valve?

texts: Does anyone know what sort of handle would fit this main valve?  Prefer to avoid using the tongue and groove pliers again!


texts: How can I cut the tiles outside of the cabinet?

texts:
I want to replace the tiles in my kitchen but I don't want to redo all the cabinets.

Some tiles are partially underneath the cabinets, so I suppose I need to cut the portion exposed outside of the cabinets before peeling them off.

I am not even sure what's the materials of my "tiles"... they don't look like real tiles. They are kind of soft and appear to stick onto the floor.

Are there such tools?


texts: How close can garage overhead storage be to fire sprinklers?

texts:
I've recently been looking at getting overhead storage racks for my garage which has several standard pendant sprinklers.  The racks I am looking at are 4' x 8' and have rigid brackets, vertical posts, horizontal beams and crosshatched wire base.  I asked the local installer what the distance requirements are so I can measure and calculate how many racks I would be able to install.

I received a response stating that all I need is 5" horizontal clearance from each rack to each sprinkler.  Is this correct?  The reason I ask is that this answer regarding light fixture distance from fire sprinklers has a distinctly different answer.

The answer from JayL contains the following:

  The residential code says pendant sprinklers must be at least 3 ft from obstructions such as ceiling fans and lights (as measured from their centers)

Does the above apply to storage racks as well?  Are they getting by with a technicality where it's within code as long as you don't put anything on the racks, but as soon as you put a storage bin up there it becomes an obstruction and out of code?

Edit:  For clarity's sake, the brackets for these racks are mounted to the roof ceiling joists and the vertical posts hang down from the brackets.


texts: Hanging picture on a very hard concrete wall

texts:
Situation: Appartment in a panel building. Very hard concrete walls -- all, thick or thin. No plastic hooks (like these on alibaba that usually work for people around do not work for me, the little nails band when hammered in, and so does the larger nail.

So far, I have been hammer-drilling everything, even a hook/nail/screw for the clock, drilling 5mm hole and using wall plugs.

However, this is very inconvenient (dusty, I have to borrow the hammer drill from my family every time and it's not a cheap thing, I get big holes in the wall if I remove any picture or alike).

Is there any other option? I thought that maybe a small hole could be created at an angle and then a small nail inserted. If the hole had 2mm in diameter and the nail had 2.2mm in diameter, it could work. However, I have no idea how to create such a small hole. Or something like that... Any suggestions are welcome.


texts: How can I tell if a drill clutch has been damaged?

texts:
I have a pretty new, pretty nice Dewalt cordless drill (DCD791). I haven't used it much, but today my wife needed help drilling a giant auger into the ground to make holes for plants. There were lots of rocks and roots in this ground. Over the course of a few hours, I drilled maybe 50-100 holes, with the clutch at the highest torque setting 15 (speed setting 1). Pretty much every hole I caught a root or rocks many time, and the clutch was engaging a LOT. I tried to keep the engagement intervals short, but it still adds up I guess. At some point near the end, I noticed that if in free air I spun the auger, and then abruptly stopped, it would rattle a little bit and sort of bounce back on the rotation axis after stopping (only a very small amount). I don't know if it was always like that or not. And now I notice that the chuck has a small amount of rotational play (maybe 5 degrees?) when the drill is powered off. Again... not sure if it was always like that.
It still seems to drill fine and the clutch still seems to work. But I can't shake the feeling that something feels looser about the chuck. Is there any sort of simple test I can do to confirm or reject these feelings?


texts: Does x-ray lead paint detection find lead underneath latex topcoats?

texts:
I have a 1921 home.  Guaranteed that the walls have lead paint somewhere beneath, right? All surfaces have been painted at least once if not 2 or 3 times since 2001.  The paint is all in good condition - no chipping. To my understanding, this is good encapsulation.

If we had someone do a lead survey with the xray gun, would these surfaces test positive for stuff beneath? Or does the gun ONLY test the surface layer?

I'm curious to know for sure that my surfaces are safe, but due to mandatory reporting/remediation, I don't want to risk testing positive from a sensitive instrument that picks up a signal from a very low risk and covered up surface.


texts:
All 4 of my kitchen recessed lights quit working yesterday. I tried installing a switch but I have a black and white active nutted together.

I have two black wires one active one not and an active red. Copper is ground.

I can't figure out why they still don't work. The wires going into the light are black and white. Not getting a reading off of either of those. My understanding is to check the light closest to the switch.


texts:
I was advised by a professional that mortar is waterproof, however sources online are telling me that it's not.

So is mortar waterproof or not? Does waterproofness vary by mortar classification (e.g. M1, M2, M3 etc.)?


texts: Is it possible to mount a countertop microwave under a cabinet?

texts:
Is it possible to mount a countertop microwave under a cabinet similar to how an over the range microwave is installed ?

There are floating shelf brackets that appear to allow this.

Is there a better way to do this ?


texts: How to cut exact and identical rectangles with a circular saw?

texts:
Following this question What tools do I need to make a straight cut in laminated chipboard? , I bought a circular saw.

So far, I used it to make long straight cuts which didn't require high precision for the absolute positioning and it's working great.

The lengths involved in this question are not greater than one meter for the rectangle I would like to cut.

I would like to use the circular saw to make two identical rectangles from a larger piece of wood. The dimensions of the rectangles do not need to be precise, they should just be equal. My first attempts have not been successful, and I had these problems (formulated as questions for a better fit here)

How to improve absolute positioning of the blade ?
How to duplicate a rectangle ?
How to ensure that a piece of wood is rectangular ?

Is there a way to do this without a table saw ?

I have a few ideas of jigs in mind, but looking at a table saw, everything I have thought of would be easily done with a table saw, and everything I could build would probably not be precise enough to be useful.

Even by cutting the pieces that need to have the same dimensions together, in the end there is always a little difference between them, because the cut is not following a perfect line, the edge is not perfectly linear, my guide is not perfectly aligned, and so on..

I also think having them cut at the shop would solve all these problems.


texts: What is the name of a coupling nut with a cutout?

texts:
I'm fixing a lamp and I need a coupling nut to connect the post that contains the electrical wires to a rod that holds the shade. This looks like a normal coupling nut, but with half of the middle cut out to let the electrical wires come through.

What is the name of such a nut?


texts: Replacing receptacles and found 14 AWG in a 20 amp circuit. Advice?

texts:
Bought a house a few weeks ago and I’m in the process of replacing all my receptacles to tamper proof models. Generally all circuits in the house are 20 amps or more and replacing all the 15 amp receptacles with 20 amp receptacles have been going well.

Today I came across one receptacle in a 20 amp circuit with a hot 12 AWG wire coming in to the receptacle and 14 AWG wire going out to light fixtures/switches. No other outlet is in this circuit.

A few questions:

Do I need to replace the 20 amp breaker with a 15 amp one?
Does this outlet have to be a 15 amp outlet even though 12 AWG wire is coming in?
Why do you think 14 AWG wire was used for lighting if 12 AWG was going in? It’s fine to use 12 gauge wires for lighting / switches
right?

Thanks for the help everyone.


texts: I used a brush to apply polyurethane on some trim work. I tried cleaning it thoroughly with paint thinner after but still got poor results--the brush bristles would stick together and the brush was unusable. I also heard mineral spirits and acetone may work. Should I try something else or are brushes pretty much done after a single use?


texts: What is causing my refrigerator to make an intermittent loud noise?

texts:
I've had a new refrigerator for a little over a year. In the past week or so, it's started making a noise that goes for approx 10 minutes, then stops for awhile, then starts again, and so on. When I open the fridge door, the sound quickly slows down and stops.

Any notion as to what's going wrong and how to address it?


texts: Why can I receive low band VHF on one tv but not another?

texts:
I'm getting channel 5 to come in on my living room TV through a rooftop antenna. This station is not coming in my bedroom. I'm using a splitter in the basement.

I've tried different antennas, cables, and even an amplified splitter but still can't get channel 5 in the bedroom. I also tried plugging in a small TV antenna directly into the bedroom TV, but still no-go. If I plug the bedroom TV into the same jack where the living room TV is plugged in, I do get reception of this station.

Any ideas on how to get this to come in or why it's doing this?

UPDATE: I finally got this resolved by using a 2-way splitter for the tv that was having issues and directly connecting one of the “out” ports to the TV in question and the “in” to the rooftop antenna. Then I connected a coax cable connected to the “in” port of another splitter that has “out” ports that connect to the other TVs in our house. I also adjusted the antenna to get the best signal.


texts: Attach aluminum tube securely to base without welding/soldering?

texts:
How can I securely attach 4-ft x 1" aluminum tube to an aluminum base without having to solder/welding or glue? The aluminum base is 1/8" thick.

The tubes are open on both sides, but they can be closed. I can also drill, but I want to avoid welding.

Welding aluminum is much more expensive than the cost of the base and tube combined.

Thanks.


texts: Why does my whirlpool ice maker make ice, quit for several weeks, then start again?

texts: I have a Whirpool side-by-side with an in door ice dispensing system.  I have been having an issue with the ice maker for some time now.  I thought the ice maker was defective because it would make ice for a while then just stop, and a few weeks would go by and it would start making ice again.  So, I replaced the ice maker.  The replacement ice maker is doing the same thing.  It fills the tray with water and freezes it, but won't dump it.  Then all of the sudden it will work for a while, then stop again.  Any ideas about what might be going on?


texts: would a bathroom without a gfci outlet be a violation in a rented appartment

texts: Would a bathroom without a GFCI outlet in a rented appartment be a violation? I have section 8 and my apartment failed inspection because of this.


texts: Turn one light bulb ON and another OFF at the same time with one switch

texts:
I am trying to operate two AC current light bulbs with one switch so that while the switch is in the OFF position, bulb B1 is OFF and bulb B2 is ON, and while the switch is in the ON position, bulb B1 is ON and bulb B2 is OFF. Only one bulb needs to be turned ON at any given time and  the other bulb is OFF.

Let me know how can I make this possible.

I would appreciate if you can provide any diagram.


texts: What is the incremental benefit of AC canned outdoor coil cleaner?

texts:
I understand that it is possible to simply clean the AC / Heatpump coils with a gentle water spray (cooling fins are delicate).  I found a can of Web coil cleaner and emptied it into 3 condensors.  I have a fleet of 13 more coils: a mixture of heat pumps and ACs.

What is the incremental benefit of using the canned coil cleaner over simply hosing down the coil?  I'd like to understand the answer to the question before I burn through 6 cans (~$50) of coil cleaner every year.

Any insight into the chemistry is appreciated. If you are a pro (service ACs for a living), please indicate this in your response: such experience  would carry more weight


texts: Two appliances fried on same circuit after replacing receptacle. Did I screw up?

texts:
I'm in the US. I recently swapped 6 old receptacles on a single circuit out for the tamper-resistant variety. It was a straightforward process--all the boxes except one had a single cable coming in. The only thing remotely challenging was that two had their bottom halves controlled by a wall switch (I did break off the tabs).

Afterwards, I tested each outlet with a meter--all showed 120V hot-to-neutral (actually more like 123-124V), no hot/neutral reversals, and good ground connections. I plugged everything back in and everything seemed to work, and the switches correctly operated the two outlets they were supposed to.

But then I plugged a circuit analyzer into the unswitched half of one of the switched outlets, put it in "voltage drop" mode, and it immediately sizzled and emitted a puff of smoke and the smell of ozone. It could no longer measure voltage drop after that (it could before), but the other functions still worked and said everything was ok. I wrote it off as a bad meter (it was newish and I'm told they're prone to those sorts of failures), and made arrangements to return it.

But a few days later, I pulled out an old computer tower and plugged it into a different (unswitched) outlet on the same circuit, and its power supply immediately sizzled and died too, before I'd even pushed the power button (the 115V/230V switch was in the correct 115V position). Now, this was a dusty 13-year-old tower that had been on the shelf for a couple months, and it's not shocking that its power supply would fail. But given what happened to the circuit tester, I have to wonder if I screwed something up when I replaced the outlets. But I have to emphasize that all the numbers look good, none of the lamps on the circuit ever flicker or get dim (or bright), and that everything else I've plugged in there, including two laptop computers and a vacuum cleaner, has worked fine.

So, is this just a coincidence? Is there any mistake I could have made that would produce these sorts of symptoms? Any tests I should do?

Details from memory:

Old work used "backstab" connections everywhere except in one spot where two wires had to attach to the same terminal; they'd used both the back slot and the corresponding screw there (box #4 below). I moved everything to the screw terminals, adding a pigtail in box #4 to solve that problem.

Box #1: Half-switched single duplex outlet, single wire bundle plus red wire from switch. Attached black wire to top copper terminal, red wire to bottom copper terminal, and broke off the tab in between. Attached white wire to one of the silver terminals (left tab intact here) and green wire to green terminal.

Box #2: Unswitched double duplex, single wire bundle. Attached incoming black and white wires to top copper/silver terminals of receptacle #1. Ran short lengths of black/white wire from bottom terminals of receptacle #1 to copper/silver terminals of receptacle #2. Old work had ground wire hooking around the ground screw on receptacle #1 and then continuing to the ground screw on #2, with insulation stripped off at the two points of contact. I didn't like this, but didn't have any more wire handy, so left it as it was.

Box #3: Unswitched single duplex, single wire bundle. Very simple. Black to copper, white to silver, green to ground.

Box #4: Switched single duplex, two wire bundles plus red wire from switch. This was the most complex one. Used a wire nut to pigtail the two black wires together with a third short length of black wire, and attached the other end of that to the top copper terminal. Attached the red wire to the bottom copper terminal, and broke of the tab in between. Attached the two white wires to the two silver terminals, leaving the tab intact. I actually don't remember what was happening with the grounds, but I think they were already pigtailed like the hots (but perhaps just twisted together instead of in a wirenut).

Box #5, Unswitched single duplex outlet, single wire bundle. Just like #3.


texts: Can I use shorter screws to mount my blinds?

texts:
I've bought a pair of blinds that came with 1 1/4 inch screws; I'm unable to drill deep enough into the frame to fit the screws, the screws are sticking about 1/8 of a inch out . I end up hitting something pretty solid while drilling. Can I just go to the store and get slightly shorter screws?

The blinds are 69 inches long, and there's 3 brackets each with two screws, it probably weights 6-7 lbs at most.


texts: Difference between various Radiant Barrier types

texts:
Can someone explain me the difference between radiant barrier types and which one is the best option?

I am seeing products like foil, Double Insulated Metalized Mylar Double Foil Bubble Wrap.

I do not understand the difference between them if there is any.


texts: How to support a heavy wooden lid in a copper sink

texts:
We have a wood kitchen surface and a pretty large copper sink. The hole is prepared for the sink, which we originally wanted undermounted with a positive reveal.

The idea was that the wooden cutout would be used as a lid to fill the hole when the sink wasn't in use and a cutting or work surface when the sink was in use.

However the copper sink looks much better overmounted. I would still like to be able to place the lid in the sink though, even with the copper rim around, and ideally have it flush with the remainder of the kitchen surface.

My question is, what can I do to support the lid in the sink? Can I tack weld something onto the inner sides of the sink, and if so what can I do to achieve that.If I hammer some kind of studs through into the wood surface, what can I do to seal the object hammered through?


texts:
I am at the moment preparing to replace my heavy duty brass door hinges on my back kitchen door. To do this properly I have to remove the door.
In order that I drill the screw holes accurately and centre I have invested in a set of self centring drills,  The brass screws that came with the hinges are a size 10 now looking at the chart of drill sizes for this size screw it calls for a .190" diameter drill which is around 3/16"  Now I selected the centring tool with that size drill but unfortunately the spring load guide is smaller in diameter than the holes in the hinges and will therefore not work. Do they make special centring tools for this type of hinge the only other answer the way I se it is to buy bigger diameter screws but I am not sure that this is the right way to go about it.


texts: Combining Circuits to have common powerline

texts:
So have individual circuits for each room in the house so each room has its own breaker as well.
My main objective is to be able to use the TP-Link AV1200 powerline internet extender from the basement to the 2nd floor.
Most of the breakers are 10A. I wanted to combine 2 light load circuits (Basement wall outlet which is never used and guest room wall outlets) into one circuit so they have the same powerline.
Can this be done? since these circuits are basically never used, i figured combining them wouldn't do much in terms of total load.

Please advise.


texts: Galvanized fasteners into exterior concrete - good enough for 20+ years? Or stainless?

texts:
Planning to attach pressure treated wood sleepers to a concrete patio and put deck boards over them.
I'm trying to decide on what fastener material is best to attach the sleepers to the concrete.
This is a wet exterior location. The concrete is bound to hold moisture pretty much all the time. (Using treated lumber means I have to use at least galvanized fasteners anyway.)
But I'm concerned that galvanized steel will rust out before the treated wood fails which would seem like a real waste. (Won't driving fasteners into concrete scratch off some of the coating?)
Is this concern unfounded?  Will galvanized be OK or should I just go for stainless?
Stainless is more expensive. If its worth it, that's OK. But I don't want to waste $$$ either.

Note - I've not yet decided on what type of fastener - e.g., tapcons vs. wedge anchors vs. nail-set hammer drive anchors... etc.


texts: What is this tool with a notch at the end of a shaft?

texts:
It’s made of a single piece of steel or a steel alloy, has a handle and shaft with a notch at the end of the shaft. I tried a google search and even a google image search using the photo below but couldn’t find it.
It is 5.5 inches (14cm) long.
What is this tool called and what is it used for?


texts: Hole suddenly opened in the sink siphon?

texts: Which substance can damage a pipe to the point of opening a hole in the trap?  I used two times that i remember Drano® Max Gel in the past 4 years


texts:
We have these programmable timers in our home for the Underfloor heating in the bathrooms.

There are no manufacturers markings on the panel, and they're not intuitive to program.

Anyone able to identify who makes these? knowing that I should be able to download a manual or at least a cheat sheet.


texts:
Single handle shower faucet broken by force...
Discontinued but it is the nut apparently- plastic and corroded by using scissors to open for too long...what do I do....it is stuck in there and the rest is stuck in the handle....
Want to fix asap no other way to clean expect bucket....
Yes, i too just noticed there is a model number there, otherwise only know it is a jade shower column.


texts:
I am going to remove some, but not all, of the laminate flooring in a particular area of our home. I understand that using a circular saw set to a very shallow depth is appropriate for this, which makes sense... is there a way to determine the depth of the flooring other than guess and check with the saw?

Edit: this area is on plywood subfloor, not slab.


texts:
I have brass anchors like below in the concrete deck around my pool.

Today, when I was raising the inner screw to install the cover, the screw was being very difficult. Trying to raise it, the inner piece snapped. Now I'm left with a the inner piece broken and no way to loosen/raise the inner screw.

What is the best way to remove the entire device without damaging the concrete?

EDIT: Anchors were installed after the concrete was dry, so there is no conformance to the shape of the anchor.


texts: Why would a sump pump cycle when pumping large amounts of water?

texts:
In my septic system, I have a sump pump that pumps the liquid into the drainage field. We have a tank alarm in this tank with the pump, but someone (not sure if it was me or someone else) forgot to turn back on the alarm one time. So now that 1000 gallon tank is over flowing. The pump circuit has been blowing for me at the fuse box. It seems to blow the circuit based on getting a bunch of rain. I'll do a separate question for that.

My question is this. I can hear the pump run for a bit (I haven't kept track of the time) then stop. After a while it will start again. Is there a safety or something that would cause the pump to not run until there is no water left? This happens no matter if the float is hooked up or I am just plugged in straight. Or could it be the drainage field is full of water and needs to seep out so there is room for more?

I know the tank isn't empty cause shortly after the pump stops, water starts seeping out of the lid again. (and the alarm light is still on).


texts: How should I landscape my yard to make my home more efficient?

texts:
At some point in the future, I plan on owning a home and I would like to use landscaping to improve both the appearance and energy efficiency of the property. I have heard that the right landscaping design can actually pay for itself in energy savings and property values, so I am looking for advice on:

the best places to plant those trees for summer shade without blocking precious winter light
the best location (distance from house) for a wind break
ways to combine the two

The question isn't region-specific, but let's assume the house is in the Rocky Mountain West of the USA.


texts:
How much of my roof do I need to clear of snow in order to prevent ice damming?

I was told 3 feet at one point but now I can't find the source.


texts: How to even out the colour on wooden stair treads

texts:
I am currently renovating my staircase, and I want the treads of the stairs to be stained wood while the remaining of the staircase will be painted white.

I have stripped the old paint of the treads and have now started to sand them smooth but the wood is very uneven in colour, especially down the middle of the tread where the was just varnish before.

Is it a case of the treads needing a lot more sanding to even them out or I am missing a step (no pun intended)?

You can see a photo of their current state here

Many Thanks
Sandro


texts: What to cover underside of shed subfloor

texts:
I'm building a garden office (shed) and will build a floor similar to that shown below (minus the flat beams between the joists and the concrete supports). I will insulate the floor using PIR (e.g. celotex or kingspan). On the top will be two layers of plywood and above that insulation, electric underfloor heating and then tiles.

My question is whether the lower surface (which will be between 5cm and 15cm off the ground) should be covered with ply, some sort of building wrap (tyvek?) or even polythene? Or can I just leave the lower surface of the insulation foam open to the elements? The PIR boards have an aluminium foil covering which is what would be facing the ground.

Source: http://blog.rockwelltools.com/how-to-build-a-better-backyard-storage-shed/


texts:
My basement (built 1945) has been taking on water seepage via the cold joint between the wall and floor slabs. This has been fairly steady for the last month due to a very high water table . I've broken out a section on concrete to discover my footing is only 3" thick.
With a three inch footing and a four inch slab I have seven inches above the "mud zone" for a french drain. I'm wondering how viable it would be to install two 2" abs pipes side by side in lieu of a single 4" flexible pipe? I'd have a 1 1/2 gravel bed, sock wrap both 2" pipes together, another inch and half of gravel over the pipes and pour a two inch slab overtop of the gravel. It would be a four inch pour wherever the gravel isn't.
I know exterior waterproofing is the best answer but it's cost prohibitive ($15k) on top of the month long waiting period to get a company out to my house.
Any help or information is greatly appreciated!


texts: How might a person of limited strength pry embedded lumber out of soil?

texts:
I thought it was clear and follow up comments clarify , the boards are buried in 4" of mud with only 2" showing, how would a person of limited strength remove the boards?

*EDIT** (to resolve questions/for clarity):

Thanks all. I'm sorry I wasn't clearer. The boards are set thin side up--so if it is a 2x4, the approximate depth would be 4". That is, the narrow side is 2": that is the part visible. As for the "horizontal," I really confused things there: I just meant that I have these long, narrow boards sunk about 4" in the ground, running about 40 feet across my yard total. And that is what traps the water: it pools in lower lying areas, especially where two boards meet. I can't post a pic now, but will do if it is still needed in the next few days.

Planning to dig out around the boards, and looking for a recommendation for a tool that 1) is narrow enough to wedge 2-4" into the ground (after digging), under the narrow part of the board (approximately 2").

Is this better? again, apologies. Hopefully I haven't confused things even more.

I moved into a rental where the previous tenant had begun a decking project that he didn't complete. He left behind 2x4s (I think--they're about 2" wide and I'm assuming 4" deep) stuck deep in the ground: at least 40 feet vertically all over the yard. It's messed up the water flow and I'm planning on planting a lawn this summer; I live in the Northwest and just have mud puddles in random places all over the yard.

Additionally, I'm fairly weak--a 43-year-old woman with no muscles :). Trying to find the best possible implements to DIY this (although I'm on a serious budget).

I think I need a heavy duty, long pry bar and, of course, a shovel. I have just a rudimentary understanding of outdoor tools, so forgive me in advance.

PRY BAR/WRECKING BAR
Know that something longer will give more leverage, but also need to make sure will be able to wedge under these boards, and that isn't too heavy to use. I think what I need is a "flat prybar," but I've found sites that list like 30 types of prybars, and none seem totally on point for this project. Is there a better implement? Considering something like the Stanley 55-525 15-inch Super Wonder Bar Pry Bar. Is this good for this purpose, or should I look for a longer model? Really loathe to spend more than $20 since this isn't something I'm going to continue to use.

SHOVEL
Going to have to get out in the rain when the soil is wet and dig before I use the pry bar. I'm assuming a standard round pointed shovel is best for that: is there anything special I should look for given my weakness/ineptitude? Something that is lightweight, with better leverage? Willing to spend more for this since I'll be using it on an ongoing basis.


texts: Should I add plywood or OSB between sistered beams?

texts: I'm going to stiffen up my main floor joists by sistering then bridging them.  In the past a friend put something in the middle, is that standard?  Should I put 1/2" plywood or OSB in between?


texts: What kind of pipe insulation is appropriate for sun exposure?

texts:
I want to insulate a water line outdoors, where it will be exposed to sun. I expect that UV light will damage many foam pipe insulations over time.

Is there a type of insulation that will tolerate the exposure? Or should I plan to cover the insulation with another material to protect it?


texts: Which pipe to use to top-up refrigerant in a freezer?

texts:
My freezer is apparently slowly leaking refrigerant. I sent it in for repairs a few years back, but now it is failing with the exactly the same symptoms: compressor working non-stop, temperature never goes to -18C (it has a digital display), but stays around -11C. It has developed this condition very gradually.

My freezer has two screw-on connections (I think they were added during the repairs): one on the stump pipe going out of the compressor (bottom), and the other on the little stump going out of filter-drier (top):

My plan is to buy an auto air conditioner refill kit (gas can + gauge + tubes), and just add some gas. My freezer uses just 120g (4.2oz) of R-134A, so I know the gas is compatible, but I need to add just a little bit.

My questions:

Which connection to use? The top one or the bottom one?
How can I know I added enough?

I know this is not really a fix without fixing the leak, if it helps for just a few months, I'm good with that.


texts: Does anyone know what has caused this corrosion on hot water heater?

texts: Just had this hot water heater installed approximately 2 years ago. I’m not sure what is causing the corrosion.  Also, the tenant said the water inside is way too hot and that it started about three weeks ago.


texts:
A friend and myself are building a cabin in southern california. It doesn't snow often where it is located.

The cabin itself is setup on a post foundation and we are almost finished with the subfloor.

My question is, should we put a vapor barrier between the sub floor joists and the plywood sheets we put down? The front of the cabin is about 2 feet off the ground while the back of the cabin is about 6 feet off the ground.

If so, would something like tyvek work?


texts: Installing grounding rods...without hitting something critical?

texts:
Is there an easy way to figure out where a safe location for grounding rods are?
I don't want to hit a sewer line or a water line.
Our house is on a raised foundation and has a crawlspace underneath.
The electric panel is outside on the back wall of the house.


texts: Why did our kitchen faucet stop working?

texts:
No water comes out of my kitchen faucet when I turn it on. Every other water outlet in the house is working fine, and the kitchen faucet was working fine until the last time we used it (two days ago). There is no trickle, it just doesn't work. I turned to shut-off valves on and off completely but nothing happened.

It's a single handle faucet with a built in sprayer. I took off the handle and also looked under the sink to see if there is anything obviously wrong or broken but either there isn't or I don't understand enough to be able to tell.

I'm happy to take the faucet off to look deeper, but the problem is I don't know what to look for. I would love any advice about how to proceed before I call a plumber.


texts: How bad is it to attach a gas water heater to a gas furnace electrical circuit?

texts:
I'm looking to replace my existing water heater with a more efficient model. One of the things that makes better models more efficient is the replacement of the thermocouple / pilot control system with electronic control and ignition plus electrically controlled dampers. Thus the heater requires some form of electrical hookup for this function.

My understanding is that in this scenario code requires the gas furnace and gas water heater to be on dedicated circuits. (Is my understanding wrong?)

I'd rather not (pay someone to run) a whole new circuit when I'd expect the water heater to need less than 4W. As a result I'd like to reuse the furnace's circuit and install a SPST switch and plug combination in the junction box where the furnace's existing disconnect switch is located, and connect the water heater to it.

How worried should I be about this? Am I going to cause serious safety hazards or equipment damage?


texts: Two dimmers (for two separate lights) in one junction box where there's only White, Black and Red coming out of the wall

texts:
So, 40 yr old townhouse, there are two ceiling lights in the "rec room" area of the bottom floor/basement.  Two dimmer dials/switches (push in for on or off, twist for dimmer function) in one receptacle near the doorway. One died, so i decided to update with some nice LED-rated Lutron dimmers (toggle + slider).

Pull off the faceplate, pull out the dimmer units, and the dimmers both have two black wires coming out, no identifying marks. Out of the wall, there's a black, a red and a white wire.  I was not smart, and did not take a picture, or keep track of which wire went where, relying on the Lutron instructions to get me though it.  Turned off the breaker, and removed the old switches, and wired the new switches in what I thought was the right way according to the instructions.

Well, one switch now turns on both lights, and that slider dims both lights, the second switch does nothing, but the slider dims one light.

The Lutrons have Black, Red, Red-White and green(ground, which i will eventually screw to the back of the junction box).

I've gotten as far as the black is common hot, so the red and the white must be "traveller" wires to the separate light fixtures, and i tried wiring the red on each dimmer unit to those, one to red, one to white.  Different, but similar behaviour on the switches and sliders.

Any advice (other than "call an electrician, ya mook!")?


texts: I shimmed the framing around a window in a 50 yr old house. Would an inspector find fault with that? Should I remove the shims and leave it in its previous state? I would simply replace the studs, but reaching the sole plate is difficult because the floor is raised a few inches. The sole plate is in effect in a little "pocket". It's hard to get my hands into the bottom of the stud bay and nail even with a palm nailer.


texts:
My contractor sunk a length of rebar in the footing of my shop to be used as ground rod for the sub panel.  I'm not sure but I suspect its just a 10 ft. length of rebar, and isn't tied into the rest of the rebar.

Can this be used as the only ground rod for my sub panel, or will I need to add another one?


texts:
The inter-system bonding termination (IBT) is where other services like telephone and cable TV get their ground bonds from the house's grounding electrode system (ground rods).

2014 NEC (NJ) 250.94 seems to say that an IBT must be placed in proximity to the house service. My home currently has a main panel with main breaker as the service disconnect. I am in the process of installing a whole-house transfer switch for a generator, which then becomes the service entrance equipment. My understanding is that the wire between the transfer switch and main panel becomes a feeder in that case (and necessitates isolating neutral and ground, etc.)

Am I required to relocate the IBT to near the new transfer switch, which is about 60 ft away on a different location on the house closer by the generator? (There was no additional room in the utility room for the transfer switch, so it is being mounted in a protected location outdoors.) All of the communications wires for the house already terminate by the existing IBT, so this would result in a rats nest of 5-6 wires having to be spliced and then traveling over to the new IBT location. For all practical purposes, this seems like a bad idea.


texts:
How many LED pot lights can I put on a single amp circuit?

Some details:

15A circuit is capable of 1800 watts, if I calculate for 80% load that is 1440 watts
Circuit is dedicated to just the lighting
Ontario electrical code says max of 12 receptacles or lights on a circuit
Plan to use ultra thin LED pot lights (not cans)
For arguments sake, lets say each light consumes 15w (most likely lower)
Theoretically I can safely power 96 of these lights ( I need a max of 26 )

If I am using the ultra thin LED lights, instead of cans, can I get away with more than 12 of them on a single circuit? My thought process: since they are contained units and not cans, they couldn't be overloaded by user negligence by putting in bulbs that draw more watts, since you can't change the bulbs in these.


texts: How do I remove this type of screw/nail (Cadet Heater FWC wall can)

texts: I am a newbie. I want to remove Cadet Heater wall can and patch up the drywall but it appears that the wall can is secured by 4 round flat screws on the side. I tried pliers but it's small and round so there is nothing to grab onto. What tool can I use to remove this stubborn wall can?


texts: Can I re-task a large conduit to hold a small conduit and low voltage cables?

texts:
To revisit our occasional questions on sneaking a low voltage cable into an AC mains conduit...
Suppose you have a fairly large electrical conduit, say, 1-1/2".  You also have some sort of continuous flexible electrical conduit, like smurf tube, where this conduit itself could be fished into the larger conduit.
Can you use the large conduit to contain both of these:

loose low voltage cabling
a continuous flexible conduit appropriate for Class I wiring, and inside that, AC mains wires type THWN.

Is that legal?   Good answers will call out Code cites if applicable.
I am not planning to self-answer this.


texts: How would you redo the grading of a brick patio?

texts:
When it rains my patio collects water in a couple of spots close to the wall of the house. The wall is now presenting external efflorescence and cracks of the external cement coating. (not sure if anything is wrong under that coating other than excessive humidity).

It is clear that I have to fix the draining for this patio but I don't know what is the best way to do it. Here are the options that I am considering:

install a frech drain between patio and wall -the problem with this is that I need to discharge that drain somewhere. For that I might
need to extend the french drain around another wall
re-grade the patio by adding more sand under the areas where the water pools
or by removing everything (gravel,sand, pavers) and re-grading the soil
that is the base for the above layers

Which of the above would you recommend? Do you have any other ideas ?