texts: Did not remove break off tab on electrical outlets replaced

texts:
I changed three very old electrical outlets in my grandmother's home today, and was thinking afterward about how they were wired. After finishing they did work when tested, with a simple desk lamp, but I haven't tried anything more complex or sensitive to wiring.

The outlets I removed did not appear to have break off tabs at all, and the outlets are not switched. I was thinking that they were just ancient, at least 70's era, and the screw plates shared an unrestricted contact on both hot and neutral.

The two outlets in question have two hot wires, two neutral, and a ground. I wired up the new outlets and left the metal tabs intact. I am worried now that that may eventually cause a problem, and hopefully someone can confirm or deny for me. If it is suggested that I should remove the hot side's metal break-off tab, I will do so immediately. If it will not cause issues, then I will leave it as-is.

What should I do?


texts: Is there any reason not to use a radiant barrier in the attic?

texts:
I am considering putting up a radiant barrier in my attic, with a product like AtticFoil, to:

Reduce the attic temperatures as my A/C ducting is in the attic, and
Reduce heat convection into my home as well.

Are there any drawbacks or concerns to installing a radiant barrier in the attic? I will staple them to the bottom of the rafters inside the attic, leaving gaps at the top and bottom for proper attic ventilation & airflow.

Home is located in a relatively temperate climate (San Francisco Bay Area) with summer temps occasionally reaching over 100 but generally has highs in the low 80s during the summer months.

(Attic currently has ~R19 cellulose insulation, which I plan on increasing to R50. I figure doing the radiant barrier first would be better since I would otherwise end up stomping on the insulation and compressing it.)


texts: O have a new propane wall heater in my new shop with a new low pressure reg. The heater works well during the day but when I go out at 8 am the heater is out pilot is out also. I live at 7030 feet, I leave a window open approx 3/4in.. the temp is around 27deg at nite.


texts: Tankless heater that only works in the morning

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We purchased a house with an existing tankless heater (installed in 2009). It would occasionally fail with error code 11 (no ignition). Over the past 2 months it has been failing more often and now fails every day.

The odd part is that it never fails first thing in the morning (6:00am) and almost always fails in the later afternoon/evening. We've tested this theory continuously over the past few weeks.

I've taken two videos: One in the morning where it works: https://youtu.be/l0XuhanKNCw

And one in the evening when it does not: https://youtu.be/drKBS0QDyhk

The unit was originally installed with a 1/2" gas line. I've recently had it replaced with a 3/4" line, as per the installation instructions, to see if that made a difference (it did not). It's unlikely it's a venting or air intake issue.

Why would time of day have any impact on the the unit working? Does anything seem off here?

Thanks


texts: Why would a bulb need a 30mA RCD for the bathroom?

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So I have bought a new light fitting for our shower room (This is the bulb.)

On the instructions it says if fitting in a bathroom a 30mA RCD is required. We have a fairly old fuse box, so wired fuses no RCDs. I see the lighting circuit has a 5A fuse on it. Does this actually equate to a 5,000mA RCD?

Does this mean the light fitting is no good for our circuit? Would I need to wire up a whole new circuit just for this light? Why would fitting it in the bathroom affect the size of RCD required?


texts: How to remove handle from grohe shower handle?

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Our shower has a Grohe faucet (I think it is the Arcada model that is discontinued. Last night when I went to turn off the water after the shower it just spins 360 degrees when I turn it and will not "catch" and turn the shower off.

I have had to cut the water off to the whole house.

Now I am trying to take the handle apart to see what I am dealing with an am stuck.

I attached photos. I was able to remove the screw that goes in the center but this black plastic part of the handle all the way to the blue/red markings just spins as one unit. Should it lift/pull off?

There is a hole in the top (shown in one picture) that I thought might have a screw in it but can't see anything. I have tried an Allen wrench and regular screwdriver.

I read that there should be a "set screw" somewhere that takes an Allen or Hex wrench but the spot I describe above is the only place visible and there isn't a screw.

Also read that if there isn't a set screw the handle should just pull off.  It does not budge.  The escutcheon screws come out but that plate will not budge either - like the handle is holding it down.

Here are the photos. Top three are from the internet of what I think this is (Grohe Arcada).  Bottom are where I am now and am stuck.

We are stuck. Any ideas?  Thank you in advance.


texts:
I'm currently designing a deck to replace an existing deck on my home. The new deck is subject to different codes than when the original was built. The city provides a link to a design guide which I am trying to follow.

The deck will be 8' 8" (~2.64m) above grade and will require diagonal bracing. The image on the design guide is unclear as to where the bracing perpendicular to beam should connect to the blocking between joists. In the diagram, the joists are coincidentally the same width as the diagonal cut in the bracing. My joists will be 2x8. Should the bracing connect to the top, middle, or bottom of the joist blocking?

Some sections of the design guide reference IRC specifics, but this section does not. If someone could reference the specific IRC or applicable passage that would be optimal.


texts: Is it dangerous if the ground pin of a 3 prong plug breaks off in the outlet?

texts:
The grounding prong of a 3 prong plug broke off in an outlet.

Could this be an electrical hazard should a child touch it?


texts: Should we use regular plywood or Lauan over fir strip sub-floor before laying vinyl?

texts: We are preparing a rental kitchen floor for sheet vinyl or VCT tiles. We currently have exposed 3" wide fir strips as the sub-floor. We were told we needed to lay 3/8" plywood over the fir for durability, but the plywood and the thickness of the vinyl raises the floor more than we would like.  A second opinion suggested we use 1/4" Lauan, which appeals to us more. Does anyone know if this product is as durable as plywood?


texts:
I just purchased a new florescent fixture with  a fancy plug connector, and I will be replacing an older fixture that is connected (twisted with wire nuts), so I have no place to plug the new fixture.  Can I just cut the fancy new plug off, and twist the fixture wires to the house wires, like the old fixture?
Thanks


texts: 2 shower heads and 1 rain head...low flow

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I hope someone can help because I'm truly lost here since I'm not a plumber.

We just had our house built and it was completed just 3 months ago.  We have a 50 gallon electric water heater and it seems to be functioning as it should.

Our sinks, toilets and children's shower function properly as does the dishwasher and pot filler.

We have a larger shower in the master bathroom that is not doing so great.  This shower has 2 separate shower heads on opposite walls and a rain head in the middle.  When I run one shower head the flow is great but if I use both shower heads or one shower head and the rain head then my flow is bad.  The shower has a 3 way diverter.  The plumbing was done entirely with PEX and I believe 1/2" was used.

I called a couple of plumbers that I know and both told me similar things that are far beyond the scope of my comprehension.  I was told that the inlet port could be too small; the plumber may not have put in some sort of balancing loop and finally that the size of my feeder line may be too small and may need to be replaced with a 3/4" line.  The only way I would know this for sure is to tear into my new wall and I really don't want to do that.  Is there an alternative to identifying the cause of this issue?  Could I not simply remove my shower head screw on a pressure gauge and measure from that point?

Please help...I'm pretty desperate here.

Thanks and sorry to be so long winded,
Mike and Jennifer


texts: How to find/identify bad connections in house wiring?

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Is there a way to identify bad connections that are still connected but are prone to overheating (loose screw, badly applied wire nut, etc)?

I just moved in a newly built house and started to wonder if those kind of things could be identified or perceived before some outlet start melting due to a loose wire somewhere in the circuit.

PS: I'm not expecting it to happen. Neither I think that the electrical was poorly done, but I've seen that happen more than once in properly done wiring...


texts: How to attach an appliance bracket to a stainless steel table?

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I need to attach this base plate to a stainless steel table in a commercial kitchen. It'd be attached to the top surface off to the side.

It's for a commercial size can-opener.

How do I go about that? Drill holes and then use bolts? Use some special type of screw? Do I need a special drill bit to create the holes?

The tables aren't a solid slab of steel...they're actually pretty thin on the surfaces.

I'm a woodworker...doing anything with steel is way out of my wheelhouse. :)

Here's a photo showing the item attached so you can see what I'm after.


texts: How should I handle moisture/insulation as I finish my basement?

texts:
Not sure what to do

Details:
We've recently moved into our first home, a split-level home in Upstate New York (Climate Zone 5 & 4 Marine). The lower level has 3 main rooms, a playroom, laundry room and man cave, all of these rooms have some level of finishing, but I'll just focus on the playroom.

Playroom:
Dimensions: 22' x 16'
Floor: Concrete, Glued Vinyl on top, (Use to have Carpet)
Walls: 3 exterior walls partially below ground (concrete block is ~4'2", however only about 2.75-3' is below ground), above ground is finished with drywall and electrical. On top of the drywall and concrete was panel board (the concrete had furring strips to which the panel was attached).
Windows: 3
Ceiling: Drop-ceiling
Addl: This room also has a closet for Plumbing, Water Heater, etc…

Problem:
This past Spring and Summer I’ve been told has been really rainy and pretty warm. We didn’t run a dehumidifier down in the basement (first time home owners :) ) and noticed white mold in 2 of the 3 rooms and efflorescence in 2 of the rooms.

In the playroom, there was white mold growing on the toys and kids furniture and it also smelled very musty. The paneling on one part of the wall also started warping. We pulled up the carpet and tore down the paneling and noticed efflorescence at the bottom (~3-6” up) of the all 3 exterior walls. We also noticed that two of the drywall panels on the interior walls (towards the bottom) had black mold on them.

Question:
We had two basement companies come and evaluate and they said that it would probably be enough to clean the efflorescence and apply Drylock, to help with the moisture coming through the walls.  Would this solution be enough? Do I also need to insulate? I would like to put drywall over the brick, just trying to figure out the best way to do that to prevent moisture, mold, insulation problems.

Thanks,

I’ve also included a photo of the playroom wall.


texts: I have read the manual for my new multimeter but unsure which (red) terminal to use for what. The meter has one VΩmA fused 500 mA max terminal and one Unfused 10A Max terminal. I just want to measure the voltage of a wall outlet. Which terminal do I use? It would be great with some examples of what the 10A terminal is used for as opposed to the VΩmA terminal. I'm not an electrician by any means so the manual is not covering this.


texts: So, when i bought this house the builder went ahead and installed a patch panel. Since then the only time I've really payed it any attention was when my house was getting hooked up to my ISP's service. recently I've wanted to start using it to interface with my router so i can easily hook up anything with Ethernet. Only problem is i dont necessarily know where i need to hook everything into. Ive included a picture for clarity.


texts: How can I reduce noise from tenants coming through my heating duct?

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I live in an old house with a wood frame and forced air heating. My family lives upstairs and we rent out the bottom floor. My problem is that the sound from my tenant's bedroom travels directly into ours through the heating duct and we can hear all sorts of noises from them, and I'm sure they can hear similar things from us. To be clear, my tenants are not being unreasonably loud. It is only the ancient duct-work that is causing the problem. I've put a camera in the duct and I can see that there is a single right angle between their outlet and ours.

I'm looking for a simple solution that can dampen the noise. I cannot do any renovations to fix this, so it must be simple and DIY. I know that nothing will be 100%, but I'm hoping that we can do something that can add privacy.

Here's what I've already tried:

Putting a pillow over our outlet. This is not a long term solution and will not work in the winter when we need the heat, but it did dampen the noise somewhat.
Use a white noise machine, but I'd prefer a passive solution.

I'm considering placing some fibreglass insulation near and around the right angle turn, but I'm not sure if this would work, or if it is even safe. If this is not a good idea, can you suggest something of a similar complexity that I could do?


texts:
I have a dripping bathroom faucet and I cannot figure out how to remove the handles to replace the cartridge.  All videos I've seen on the internet show a screw to remove, but I popped off the top of the handle and I don't see any screw.  Here is a video of what it looks like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-9pmfznykY

And here are some pics from above and below:


texts: Is my shower drain leaking under the slab?

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My wife & I renovated our master shower a couple years ago.  About three months ago, we noticed the baseboards in the guest bathroom (on the other side of the wall from the master bath) were getting water damage (similar to how they were getting damaged a couple years ago, thus the shower remodel).  I tore out the baseboards & sure enough, water was showing up just like it did a couple years ago.  I called my contractor friend out to look (he had spear-headed the original remodel) & his thoughts were that it wasn't leaking thru the tile/hot-mop since none of our tiles were displaced or coming off.  So I tested - I plugged the drain & filled the shower with water.  It held water for 6-8 hours without any showing up in the guest bathroom, but as soon as I took a shower, there was the water!  This made me think it was the drain under our slab, but how was the water getting up?

Here is what I think is happening, but I would like some thoughts on how to remedy it without tearing up my newly-remodeled shower.  I think the Fernco adapter mating the original cast iron pipe with the new PVC pipe is leaking.  Of all of the pictures I took during the remodel, one of them showed the plumber didn't clean up the cast iron pipe before attaching the Fernco adapter.  I believe this joint is leaking, the soil around this joint is now saturated and the water is being forced up thru the slab at the point where the vent pipe goes thru the slab.  I called a company that does pipe relining, but they wanted $1800 for this three foot run and wouldn't guarantee a seal since they were getting to the problem area thru the shower trap.  I do need to get a couple more estimates, but at this price it might just be cheaper to tear up the shower floor & fix it correctly, thereby confirming the problem & guaranteeing a fix.

Does anyone have any other ideas as to how to fix it?  I'd appreciate any thoughts.


texts:
I am replacing all the trim along the floor in the house, 3 bedrooms, office, living room, hallways, and media room. To save some effort I'll be getting a nail gun. For wall trim like this would a brad nail gun (18 gauge) be okay or do I need a finish nail gun (16 gauge)?

Thanks


texts: What finish can I put on my pallet floor to fill cracks?

texts: What finish can I put on my pallet floor to fill in cracks and have an even, thick top coating?


texts: Both shower heads have less flow after water heater replacement

texts: Just had professional replacement of 50gal water heater. Both Shower heads in master bath have noticeable lower pressure than before. Plumber used CPvC on new installation connected to existing copper. Could there be diameter difference causing a restriction and how do I tell?


texts: Is running a portable air con unit on a highly loaded circuit going to be a problem?

texts: The electrical situation in our house is that almost all of the outlets are on the same circuit/breaker and when there is too much load the breaker will trip. We need a new cable run to part of the house to separate the outlets... It is warming and I decided to plug in the portable air conditioner. I am concerned that if there is too much load in the house the voltage supplied to the portable air con might be too low, which in particular I know motors don't like... In this situation could the voltage be low enough to cause problems or will it be ok until the electrical upgrades are done?


texts: Do I need a foundation for this type of shed, or can I just put it on level ground?


texts: How do I replace this switch with a timer?

texts:
I was trying to wire in a timer switch for a vent fan.
When I went to replace the switch (which I knew was a 3 pole) I was baffled by the way it was wire. 4 wires run into the box, two of the hot wires go straight to a switch and the other are marred with 2 other black wires that run back to the neutrals on the switches. All 4 white wire are marred.
Hopefully these pictures below help make more sense, the switch on the left is a light and the switch on the right if for the fan that I want to put a timer on but as it's a 3 way switch, I'm not really certain how to go about determine which wires are hot/common/traveler etc)

http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/mitts14/library/


texts: Is there enough time to pour 40 sqf 4" slab with 60lb bags of premixed concrete if working alone? Any hints?

texts:
I am planning to pour 40 square feet of 4" slab to support light shed. I was thinking of using 60LB bags of regular premixed concrete (not fast set). I figured that getting it as ready mix in a truck is way too expensive and also the site is 150+' away from the street.

What is the best way to do it so concrete wouldn't set before time and I don't kill myself? The place is very constrained so I can't fix electric mixer and it's tight even for wheelbarrow.  My current plan is to use Leonard OdJob™ Concrete mixer and I will need abot 30 bags.

Any alternatives and hints?


texts: I believe the low pressure from my kitchen faucet hot and cold is from this blue connector. The faucet and parts are new. If I disconnect this, the pressure seems normal, but with it connected it seems to have a very spread spray which is what’s probably causing the low pressure. That’s not normal right? I will probably try to replace this connector even through it should be new.


texts:
I'm installing a stove receptacle on a wall that's partially below grade so the lower half of the wall is masonry, the upper half is normal studs, drywall, etc.   it would be easier to put the receptacle in the upper half of the wall where it might be slightly visible above the top of the stove (I need to measure how high).  The wire would would be coming down from the ceiling. Would this be considered a safety issue?  I'm thinking about grease fires, etc.

I suppose the normal position is more vulnerable to an over flow from a huge pot of water, but the breaker should stop that...


texts: Replacing fluorescent fixture with a normal tungsten lamp - wiring trouble!

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I am replacing 2 fluorescent fixtures with 2 simple two-wire lamps.  (The two fixtures are on one circuit - when I removed the first fluo fixture, the second one no longer lit up.)  I am having trouble figuring out how to rewire it all.

The difficulty is that coming out of each socket in the ceiling, there are two sets of wires.  On the left is a black and a white wire.  On the right is a black wire, a white wire, and a red wire.  The right red wire connects to the left white wire. The right white wire was going into the fluorescent.  And finally, the two black wires connect, and then a third black wire (connected to the same wire cap and coming out of it) went  into the fluorescent.

I tried simply connecting the black and white wires to my new fixture, but I think it’s blowing the circuit - it feels different when I turn on the breaker than when there are no wires connected. I’ve tried different combinations of the black wire (leaving one of them out of the equation), but no dice either.

Anyone understand how I might be able to connect the circuit and get these lights to work?

SOCKET 1
(i disconnected all the black wires)

SOCKET 2
(have left black wires exactly as they were when i removed the fluo fixture)


texts: How to handle painting with movement of cabinet door panel movement?

texts:
I am building new kitchen cabinet boxes with face frames.  It is a no-brainer to pay for shaker style doors to be built and shipped to me, but I have some questions about how the paint will behave:

With the expansion and contraction of the floating panels, won't the unfinished panel inside the rails show unless they are primed/painted before assembly and shipping?
Would a clear coat make the paint more durable or is this more a function of the primer/paint combination?


texts: During what construction era was plaster installed over metal lath?

texts:
My home dates to the 1890s. It has clearly been through many renovations over the years before I owned it. The walls in my living room have defied all stud finders: normal ones find nothing, magnetic finders read the whole wall as a stud. Tonight I found this when removing a vent cover.
It looks like the wall is plaster over metal mesh. Can anyone give me any idea of when this construction was used? Is there anything special I need to know about? I'm just looking for information.
UPDATE I still haven't found a studfinder that can see through this stuff, but I have found that I can measure 16" intervals from the edge of my heating vents and find studs reliably.


texts: If you can use duplex breakers, is there ever a reason not to?

texts: In general, when circuits need AFCI protection (or GFCI protection if you don't feed everything through GFCI receptacles), you can't use duplex breakers, since there's not enough room for the protection circuitry. However, when they don't, is there any reason not to use as many duplex breakers (or quadplex breakers if MWBC's are involved) as your panel will let you? In other words, is there ever a reason to use a normal single-pole breaker when your panel can still take more duplexes? I ask because I read here a lot that panel space is precious, but I also see a lot of normal single-pole breakers that could be duplexes.


texts: What type of electrical supply is this? (Canada)

texts:
I'm interested in buying a home-energy monitoring product, the type with current sensors that clamp onto one or more main electrical feed wires.  In order to determine what products would work, and how many sensors are needed, I'm wondering what sort of electrical supply arrangement I have.  It looks to me like there are two hot lines, one neutral, and one ground line.
Specifically, I'm wondering if based on this arrangement, is all of the current flowing through the neutral line (i.e. I'd need only one current sensor), or would it fit into another category as shown in the chart below?
Here's an image of the panel (I believe it is a subpanel, it is in a condo building):

Here are the sort of categories mentioned in the product literature:


texts: Why doesn't my air conditioner fan come on when the condenser starts?

texts: I have a York heat pump…the condenser is coming on but the blower motor isn't. Model# F6FP030H06T3XH. My blower motor doesn't come on but the condenser does when cooling is called for. Relay is good...motor is good...transformer is good...I am getting 24v on G at control board...motor does nothing. Any ideas?


texts:
I am making a light fixture with iron plumbing pipe and 18-2 lamp wire (yeah, I'm one of those people). I just want to clarify a couple of things - with the 2-strand lamp wire, the one with the ridge is the neutral, right? There is no plug to go by as I'll be hard wiring into box in the ceiling.
Also, the fixture should be grounded for safety - what is the best way to add a ground wire to the actual fixture? the one from the power supply is around the ground screw in the junction box and should be paired to one attached to the fixture itself (with a marette), shouldn't it?
Thanks for your help,
d


texts: I’m having a pool put in and the pool guys said they need a 20 amp breaker for the pool equipment. My outside panel says 100 amps (see picture). But my panel inside adds up well over 100 amps. Is this normal?  The breakers never trip even with the dryer, AC, and other appliances running.


texts: How to keep buried deck posts from rotting

texts:
This is related to a question I asked earlier regarding my deck footings.

I had a pool deck built last fall. The footings are 4' deep and 12" diameter. There are metal post brackets attached to the concrete, and the PT 4x4s are attached to those brackets.

The builder only poured the concrete to about 6" below grade. So now my posts are buried about 6" below grade. Well, not exactly buried, as the footings were dug out and left as holes. Those holes filled up with rain and are now my posts are sitting in blocks of ice. I assume I should fill the holes with something in ther spring when the ground thaws.

Is there anything I can do to help my wood posts from rotting? I know I need to regrade the area so water drains away from the footings, but I don't know if it's ok for the bottom of the posts to be buried. And if so, what material do i use to fill in the footing holes (sand, crushed stone, gravel, etc)? Should i coat the posts with some type of rubberized sealant to keeo away water?

I attached a photo (from the fall, it is all frozen now) for reference. Thank you!


texts: GE GXSL 55R water filter system suddenly experiences "water hammer"

texts: Why has my under-sink water filter system (GE GXLSS 55R using FQSLF replacement filters) suddenly, after 10+ years without problems, started to experience "water hammer" when the faucet is turned on and ends when it is turned off? Do these devices wear out and need replacement?


texts:
Whilrpool electric Range, 6 years old.  While boiling pasta sauce and water on top of stove and heating oven, heard a pop and all power went dead.  Reset circuit but range will not power back up.  House is built in 1998.  Reset circuit several times, check all GFCI which are working properly.

Family of 6, range is used daily, this was very typical use.

Suggestions what to do?


texts: Can tankless water heaters be used in Europe?

texts:
I just discovered tankless water heater technology while browsing alternatives to gas based water heating, more specifically the ones designed in the United States by EcoSmart.

I have been trying to find if these tankless water heaters can be installed and used in Europe (more specifically, in Western European countries), but until now I've only found a few of them on UK's Ebay. My country's electrical appliances sellers do not seem to even know about this type of water heating.

Currently my knowledge about this is also very limited, therefore if I purchase one of these will a professional electrician be able to install it directly or will it require a specific transformer? And is the warranty valid in Europe? They allow a fewer time warranty for "outside of continental US and Canada" but it needs to be installed within 30 days of purchase and their form must also be filled out and sent within this time frame with an installer license... So does it need to be a US installer license?

Side question: Is there a reason why this technology does not seem to be popular in European countries?


texts: Can I wire a Bathroom Fan to two Switches in Parallel?

texts: I want to control a bathroom exhaust fan with a wall timer, and a 24 vac relay. Basically both switches would be wired in parallel. Is this safe to do?


texts: What can cause a Garbage Disposal to trip the breaker besides blockage?

texts:
My garbage disposal works intermittently. More often than not there is a few seconds of high pitched whine before the breaker trips. About one time in ten, it works correctly.

There is no blockage and it spins freely with the key inserted in the bottom.

Time to go shopping for a new one?

Bonus question: would it be easy enough to install myself?


texts: GFCI trips after adding new circuit to it

texts:
Preface: I am a complete newbie when it comes to electrical circuits. I usually have electricians do all the work in our house.

An electrician installed a circuit in our backyard with 8 outlets on it. The circuit was controlled by one GFCI.

Everything worked fine, as expected.

A couple of years later, another electrician added another circuit with 2 outlets and an air conditioner compressor to the same GFCI.

Now the GFCI trips every few minutes.

Obviously adding the new circuit has something to do with the GFCI tripping every few minutes. But beyond that I don't know why this is happening and how it could be fixed. Any suggestions? Thank you!


texts: Are splices made with insulated cable connectors required to be inside a junction box?

texts:
I have a need to splice a 6/3 romex and 4/3 romex in my attic.  It would look something like this:

4/3  |-- (6/3) new destination
-----|
     |-- (4/3) original destination

I am looking at purchasing the following connector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UKGG0C6/

The current breaker is 70amp.  I will downgrade that to 50amp because of the 6/3 wire.

I have read conflicting reports on whether these connectors require a junction box or not.  Can someone please give guidance?  Please cite any references rather than just opinions!


texts: Can I Add a Plug to Lights Designed to be Wired In?

texts:
So I purchased these lights on Amazon, not realizing that they don't actually have a wall plug, they're just bare wires.  Can I attach some wiring and a plug to the wires to be able to plugin them into the wall?  If so, what all would I need to accomplish the task?

Here is the only technical information about the lights that I saw: 10W 12V LED Flood Light with Epistar Chip.

And here is a picture of how it is currently wired:


texts: Why would a portable heater set off a carbon monoxide alarm?

texts:
I've got a small portable heater purchased from Target for about $10.

When you first turn it on, it always has that burning smell from the element heating up.
It clears up after about 10 min.

Recently, I turned it on in a room with a CO detector, and that smell set it off.
What's the correlation?  There's no oil or anything to give off CO?  Is it still safe?  Should I just open the windows while it's warming up?

EDIT: It's electric.  Detector is new and it sets off as the heater is turned on.
Is it really emitting CO or is the defect just setting off a false positive on the detector?


texts: Sub panel neutral and ground not bonded so why continuity between them?

texts:
I have a 125A GE PowerMark Gold Load Center "subpanel" at my detached garage. Subpanel has 2 hots, one neutral with no "connected" ground between panels. The subpanel ground bus bar is tied to a local 8ft subterranean 5/8" grounding rod. 50A branch breaker at main feeding 6/3 wire about 100ft tied directly to the subpanel inlets (H/H/N). Per NEC, the neutral and ground in the subpanel are not bonded (i did not screw in the green bonding screw that came with the panel).

All the outlets including GFCIs all work correctly. When I test panel buses with my meter in the garage I have 120v between neutral and each hot and have 120v between ground and each hot. Sounds good right? Then why do I have continuity between neutral bus bar and ground bar also between neutral bus bar and panel box itself?!? I thought that if I don't insert the screw, then neutral should be "separate" from ground and panel metal box? Or is this normal?


texts: How do I raise the humidity levels in my home?

texts:
I installed hardwood flooring in my home late last fall. The humidity level in my home this winter dropped incredibly low (20%). I'm not sure if it's related to the new hardwood.

I installed a whole home humidifier but it can't seem to bring the humidity levels above 30%.

It only runs when the furnace is running. Soon after the furnace shuts off, the humidity levels start dropping again.

How can I get the humidity level to rise to 40-50%, then maintain?


texts: How can I hang a ceiling fan on a cathedral ceiling without wiring or an electrial box?

texts: How do I install a ceiling fan on a cathedral ceiling that has no wiring and electrical box? I don't really want to cut into ceiling drywall.  I'm worried about support for the fan.


texts: Chain specs for lifting stumps with farm jack?

texts:
A farm jack & chain can be used to lift out shrub stumps, it's just not obvious what length & strength of chain makes sense. I purchased a farm jack online and a 14 foot length of 3/8" grade 43 chain at a big box store. Made a tripod ( as seen in several YouTube videos ) with 2x4 & 1/2" bolt.

The chain, however, seems way too big for the job. We had some tree guys in a few weeks ago who took out several shrub stumps with a farm jack arrangement - their chain looked smaller and easier to work with.

Question: I'd like to know what would be a better choice for chain than the monster I've got for hoisting shrub roots, not tree stumps.

( This is a duplicate of a question at gardening.stackexchange.com, where posting here was suggested.)

Photo:


texts:
I am dealing with woodworms at home and I am looking for an effective method to contain their spreading and eliminate them from my furniture.
I would just like that they chose another place to build up their home, that should not be my flat!!!

The woodworms are in my furniture since 5 years more or less. I have at least 5 wooden pieces of furniture occupied by woodworms. They are mostly chairs, a showcase and a chest. I figured out that they were woodworms because of the sawdust and the little holes left in the wood.
What happens is that these tiny animals move from a piece to another and every year a different piece of forniture is contaminated.

I did not call a pest control and I had ever dealt the situation on my own. What I did since now it has been to inject a solvent with a syringe inside the holes in order to kill the eggs that they supposedly laid down inside the hole.

However now I am a little bit worried because in this season (spring) they are growing up a lot and spreading in my house and because they started getting inside 3 uncontaminated wooden doors I care a lot about.

Now my request is the following: could someone suggest me some effective methods to prevent their spreading?
I know it may sound strange, but does someone know the habits of these little animals? Or does someone knows a useful book or guide to face against them?

I am able to contain the emergency injecting the solvent in the holes, but I definitely cannot figure out how and where they lay down the eggs. This could be very useful because I would be able to prevent them dig their hole.
Indeed I understood that the big hole we can see in the wood is the exit hole, while the entrance hole is a tiny one, almost not visible unaided eye.

Thank you to everyone!


texts: What preparations can I do before I paint the ceiling of my bathroom?

texts:
I want to paint my bathroom ceiling, but there are some bathroom fixtures that I can't remove and that will be very hard to cover up.

What preparations can I do, and what should I keep in mind when painting? Is there anything I can do to avoid paint splatter on furniture, walls and floors?

My bathroom is shown in the picture below. I can not remove the shower walls, the lights above the mirror or the WC (obviously). (It's possible to remove the shower walls, but I don't want to do it in case I'll mess something up when mounting them back up)

The ceiling is made of drywall (though I don't think it's of any relevance).

Please feel free to edit my grammar / choice of words.


texts: How to finish wide gap in drywall at edge of ceiling

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I have a long narrow gap in the ceiling where it meets the wall. It is too big for plaster and tape, but too small (and uneven) to cut a piece of drywall.

Furthermore, unlike in this question, there is no wood to fill with plaster.

What is the best approach to fix this?


texts: Do low voltage wires need to go in a junction box

texts: My AC blower is in the attic. It has a number of low voltage control wires that are not in a junction box. I am planning on blowing insulation into the attic, but I am not sure what to do about the wires. Should they be in a junction box?


texts:
I have some wood that I want to apply varnish to. My garage is exceptionally dusty and my house is pretty bad too. My question is, is it okay to apply varnish outside in the sunshine? Will it still cure properly because the sun is now quickly drying it off.

Note: I'm actually using spar urethane. It's for a sign.


texts: Is there some flexible cement-based mortar?

texts:
I live in an apartment in a multistoried building. The building is assembled of huge enforced concrete plates - one plate is size of a wall of a room. One of the inter-plate seams has a crack in it due to a slight basement slump (the code allows that) that lets the cold from the outside (the atmosphere) into the apartment.

I need to choose some compound to seal the seam from the inside of the apartment. The crack is about two millimeters wide and I could use ordinary cement-based mortar, but the problem I see is mortar is not elastic, so if the building continues to slump the crack will surely reappear and I'll have to start anew.

I could use silicone-based sealant, but it is not fireproof and I don't like the idea of a fire suddenly bursting from inside a wall if there's a fire in some other apartment.

So I'd like to have something like a cement-based mortar (fireproof) yet flexible enough to compensate fro future slumps. Are there such compounds?


texts: Bathroom light switch turns off kitchen light randomly

texts:
My kitchen and bathroom share a wall. The switches in both rooms are not set up in an intentional 3-way switch setup.

If my kitchen light switch is on, turning the bathroom switch to either on or off will sometimes cause the kitchen light to go out.

The kitchen light switch then needs to be turned to off and on again to light back up.

What should I be worried about? I tried explaining this to an electrician but since he couldn't recreate the problem, he dismissed it. It's now happening more frequently.


texts:
I purchased new LG oven 2 weeks ago and smelled burning last night.
Come next morning, the oven doesn't turn on.
I checked on back of power cord section and opened the cover.
Inside, 3  of the wires (black, white, and red) were not secured at all, instead hanging from the bolt with no nut. The red wire was completely burned..

Is this normal???


texts:
I am about to make a 2400mm x 700mm x 1800mm firewood shed for storing dry wood and keeping it that way. The location is the least affected by elements on our property, it's very protected from wind, and the best site for minimising rain. However, the downside is that is gets precisely no sun. Unfortunately there really isn't anywhere else to put it.

I am more concerned about encroaching dampness and rats living in the free nest than anything.

My instinct says to make this shed water-tight so rain can't get in, put a door on it and seal it up, rather than the traditional style of wood shed which is more open to the elements for airflow/drying. I want to be able to go into my shed, grab a dry log, put it on the fire. When I put a tarp over the wood on a raised wooden platform it keeps it dry through storms and no condensation/mould forms and there is zero proper airflow there, but like I said, the wood is dry.

I am going to build the floor today, and if someone hadn't said to me "wood sheds need to have airflow, because all the ones I see do and because condensation mumble mumble" I wouldn't even have asked.

However, because this shed is not going to be airtight, there will be some degree of dampness that gets in. The floor will be raised off the ground by cinder blocks and I could space out the floor boards for ventilation but I was just going to try to keep it dry and rat free by sticking plywood on top of the boards to be honest. I am using clear corrugated PVC for the roof and sides of the shed.

EDIT: I realise now that it would be more descriptive to describe it as a glorified dry wood storage box, than a wood shed per se


texts: How can I protect my rug from being dented by table stands?

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I have one rug (rug on top of carpet in my apartment) in the living room where a center table rests, and one rug under the dining table. Each of the rugs have developed dents at the point of contact with the table stands, (due to the pressure from stands).

Is there any way to protect the rug from denting?


texts: Looking for advice on this refinishing project

texts:
Refinishing some wood builtins (veneer).  The photos below are of a shelf which appears to have the same veneer; I am using that shelf as a test bed.  I have provided several photos in different lights and angles.
Questions:

Does it appear I have sanded off all of the old stain (from the half I have worked on)?  I can't tell, because the wood grain is so dark in places.

What wood does this veneer appear to be, and would it need grain filler to make a smooth surface?

As you can see I have scratched the wood with my hand sanding.  I went down to 60 grit which was far too low.  I bought a random orbit sander and am thinking of starting at 180 or 220 to see how that goes for starters.  Thoughts?

There are some stain samples there.  The original stain was beautiful, and in some lights looked golden, and in others deep red/brown.  Almost opalescent.  Do you know how that kind of finish can be replicated?  I cannot take photos that do it justice.  Note, I am refinishing the tabletop of the builtins because it has a lot of sun damage, water damage, etc.

Do I remove white water spots just with sanding, or do I need oxalic acid as well?

How would you fill gouges on this?  Deep scratches made by dog nails, which are wide, but not so deep they penetrated the veneer.

Thanks so much.
[


texts: What to do when a toe-kick saw doesn't fit underneath cabinets?

texts:
I have hardwoods in my kitchen that I want to refinish. The only problem is that there is a plywood layer with laminate tile on top of the wood. The plywood goes all the way to the wall, but we don't have the budget to replace the cabinets.
I bought a 3 3/8ths in toe-kick saw to try to cut the plywood, but it won't fit underneath the cabinets.

What should my next move be?


texts: New GFCI’s indicator light is green but outlets have no power

texts:
I installed new GFCI. It’s the last outlet in that circuit so I connected the wires without touching the yellow sticker. After all done, I tested it and green indicator light is solid. When I plug in, no power on both outlets. What did I do wrong?

Update.
I use this GFCI outlet for portable under sink water heater. I test with a radio and it works but I plug the water heater and no power. I mean no power from outlet, not only water heater. I use the non contact tester which can test power and current. I switch to radio and has power again.


texts: Building custom cigar box - is there a MAYA or 3DSM to wooden cutout service

texts: I am looking to build a custom cigar box, and was wondering if I were to design it in MAYA or 3D Studio Max and the figure out all the different pieces I would need. Is there a metal, plastic, or wooden production service that would send me the cutouts in the mail?


texts: Which AC Hard Start kit capacitor I should use?

texts: My AC system is getting very old and I was wondering if I should add a Hard Start kit and with what spec? Here is my AC spec included below and the existing Dual Run Capacitor is 440volt and 40+5MFD.


texts:
I live in Mason County, in Washington State. I am installing a 100amp RV pedestal (ground mounted). I am running 4/0,4/0,20 triplex direct bury cable (not sure if going in conduit or not yet)about 160ft from the power companies transformer box that is on my property. I understand I will need a 8ft long grounding rod, but do I need to have 2 grounding rods for 100amp service? I am not sure if that only applies to 200amp service. And do I need 5/8" or 3/4" dia.
Thanks in advances
Dean


texts: What design should I use for a desk that is only around 1' deep?

texts:
I have a small apartment. I have an empty wall space that is approximately 1 foot 'deep' as it butts up to what I would call a "room divider" wall.

I want to use this space for an office desk. I need to include my laptop, a 27" monitor, a keyboard, a laser printer, and room beneath to push in my rolling chair when not in use.

I'd prefer to limit the width of this desk to no longer than 4'.

Should I build (or possibly find) a simple "skinny" table that is short enough to be used as a desk? Are there other designs or pieces of furniture that are better suited for this type of space and usage?

I'm hoping that there are similar furniture designs used historically or for other purposes that might be well applied to this situation.


texts: How to block out light though a sliding glass door

texts: I have glass sliding doors between my bedroom and living area.  The light from the loungeroom and the flicker of the tv comes through the glass doors and makes it hard to sleep.  I am wanting to find out how I can block out the light from coming through to the bedroom.


texts:
I replaced all of my under-counter fluorescent light strips with Connecting LED strips two years ago.

I thought they were supposed to last forever?
Last week, one strip went out. A week later two more quit working. Of the 8 strips connected on two sides of my kitchen, two no longer work on one side, and one doesn't work on the other side.

Do these things have something like a ballast that quits working?  These things were not cheap. I'm ready to pitch all of them and go back to fluorescent!  Help!


texts: Used "polymer modified" versa bond on top of Ditra

texts:
So, let's skip the "how" and get to the mistake. I used VersaBond (A118.1, A118.4, A118.11) "Polymer modified" "fast setting" for the entire project. It wasn't till today that I was looking up dry times, when I realized my mistake and that "Polymer Modified" is the same thing as "latex modified" which is great for the bottom layer, but not for the top.

I used 16x16 tiles over about 1+1/4" wood subfloor. So, my question is likely obvious and could be summarized as "what would you do" -- after you're done throwing a few tools thru windows and crying in your beer.

Do I rip it up? If so, just the tiles or Ditra as well? Or, do I simply have to wait longer. In the instructions it says it may take 14 - 60 days for latex modified to cure. I'm assuming in my case if I'm to wait, I would wait the whole 60 days since I used 16x16 tiles. Or, is waiting a complete waste of time and I'm just delaying the inevitable? I am going on a 14 day vacation in a week. So, staying off it at least for that time would not be a huge inconvenience. Also, it's fairly hot and dry here. Around 85 - 90 in the day and 65 at night and I could keep heat and/or air moving on the tiles if that helps. The tile is interior, climate controlled to 75.


texts: How can I attach a light fixture to plasterboard?

texts:
After some water damage and a ceiling repair I cannot locate the joist to refix the light fitting. It is a circular fluorescent light weighing about 3 and a half pounds.

Is it safe to fix all 3 screws using plastic plasterboard plugs or should I keep making holes until I find the joist so at least 1 screw is in wood?


texts:
What. Do. I. Do. With. This.

All of my network, cable, and phone wires run to this white box.
I don't know what this box is called.
There's a couple of power outlets at the bottom, within the box. The black block thing is used for phone, and has some kind of what I think is a 1-N cable expander (I assume to take in coming cable and route it to a bunch of rooms) bolted to it.
There's a cable modem and wifi router in here, one is just sitting on the bottom. It's just a free standing black box. The other is essentially dangling from a screw shoved in to one of the white box holes.
I have a power strip hanging outside the bottom, since if the internet goes whacky, it's easier to just click the power strip than to unplug bricks or barrel plugs. There's also a small satellite TV thing hanging here somewhere.
This is certainly something specifically designed to wrangle this mess, I just don't know how to approach it. My fantasy is to turn this in to a something I could route with patch cables. But, I don't know what to look for to plug in to this thing.
Is that an unreasonable expectation? Are there things that I can use to perhaps mount these small boxes, and the power strip? Add network panels (I'm not a network person, so the vocabulary eludes me) for the phone and network? Can I do the same for the BNC cable connections?
Or should I just strive to shove all of this in to the box, and hope to never have to open it again.
I just don't know what this stuff is called, what to look for, etc. When I see folks talking about these kinds of things (I think), they're mounting computer racks for servers and routers and what not. Far too big and too deep for what this is.
Amusingly, the person who actually wired this in my home stopped doing that work and started driving a dump truck (for his family business) delivering gravel for landscaping, and he happened to deliver some for me. We talked, but he wasn't helpful in his advice as to what I should do.
So, I'm looking for direction and suggestions on what I can do to neaten this mess up beyond color matching the velcro wraps. If I were to hire a professional for this, what kind of person would I search for?


texts: I need to change or replace the left-hand flush to a right-hand flush, due to ADA. The toilet is about 15 years old and was manufactured in Turkey. I've pretty much have given up on locating a replacement tank. Drilling a hole and repositioning the lever seems to be the least expensive route. I believe I would need a diamond drill bit or hole saw. Plan B would be to replace the toilet. Any guidance?


texts: Where should I connect the ground wire in a 30amp enclosed switch?

texts: I plan on wiring this 30A general duty shutoff switch with 8 gauge red /black/ as two hot 120 legs and green as ground. The line will be coming from a 30 amp breaker from the main panel. The load will be to a 50amp plug for my welder. My question is do I run the ground from the plug right to the panel or should I add a ground bar to this shutoff switch for my ground. Also will having an empty pole on this switch hurt?


texts: Can I use a 4x6x16 top beam for a cantilevered swing set?

texts: I have a 4x6x16 beam that I would like to use on a new swing set. If I span 12 feet between supports, can I leave one or both ends cantilevered to support an additional swing?


texts: Residential Natural Gas Meter - Remove Fitting?

texts:
Is that reducer coming out of the meter necessary? Currently, it's a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, then steps back up to 3/4" and then to 1" for the runs in the house. Can I eliminate this reducer and just go from 3/4" to 1"? Did the guy on the truck just not have the right sized fittings the day of the install?

Further Info if Needed: I'm in the middle of a remodel. I am going to
move away from the black pipe and replace with CSST. We are moving FAU,
moving the water heater, going from tanked to tankless etc. I'll be running new CSST. I'm just
trying to eliminate some of the unnecessary fittings and turns if
possible at the meter.

Thanks for the help!


texts: How can I install a water inlet for a dishwasher?

texts:
I am trying to figure out how to add a cold water inlet under the kitchen sink. The easiest thing seems to add a tee joint. Here is the picture of the cold water pipe going into the sink

 I seem to need a Washing Machine Tee Valve

But the part I am not sure about is how would it fit into the current joint correctly. Would I need an adopter of some sort?

Added:
The dishwasher only takes in cold water and has plastic end which can fit right into the valve or the single end of the Y joint. The current white flexi pipe is going in to the sink. I also have this strange stop valve type thing on the middle white pipe, what is that? Can it be used?


texts:
I have some windows that I want to insulate at night during the winter. I have energy star windows, thermal drapes, and cellular blinds and those plastic window film kit things, but I want to reduce my heating costs even more.
From my quick googling it looks like there is some danger in insulating "too well" from the inside, namely that I could end up with the window getting too cold and getting damaged by water or other thermal stuff. If that's wrong, please let me know and ignore the rest of this question.
If that's right, then I'm wondering what I can do to insulate my windows further while avoiding this issue. To me it seems intuitive to try and insulate my windows from the outside, ideally in a way that I can "turn off" during the daytime. Any ideas of how to do this? Maybe some kind of fancy shutters?
Thanks!


texts:
Let me explain what I mean. Most googling leads to tub related setups, but my setups do not include tubs.

Lately I have been seeing these diverters in many newer bathrooms(my own new one in SG, and one in India). What they have is one tap to control direction of flow (tap / Shower / Hand shower (if any) ), one to control the flow rate and temperature, and a little knob u need to pull, which I believe is the diverter. To turn on the shower, the first tap has to be appropriately turned, the flow tap has to be turned on, and THEN the diverter has to be pulled.

If the diverter is not pulled, regardless of the first tap, the water flows out of the tap. The diverter only stays in place until the flow tap is open, which means when you turn off the shower to soap up, the diverter releases, and all the water in the shower system releases down the tap.

This seems ridiculously wasteful and complicated to me (2 steps instead of 1 to turn on the shower). What is the point of this? Does it serve any advantage at all?

My guess is maybe this is 2 different setups merged into one.. Either way I have macgyvered the diverter to stay always pulled :P

I am sorry I dont have pictures, the flow tap/diverter is similar to one of https://www.pinterest.com/brockmawson/bathshower-mixer/ and the first tap is just one that turns to pick the outlet.

Update: This is more of a question to satisfy my curiosity, I am reasonably satisfied with my hack fix to hold the diverter out, and this is a rented unit, I am not looking to alter it.


texts:
I am working on installing a new light fixture in the bathroom and the wiring has 4 black wires and 4 white wires. Not used to seeing this and don’t know how to proceed. The House was built in the 70s if that helps.

Currently there are 3 black wires all connected together, 4 white wires not connected to anything, and 1 black wire not connected.

The three black wires were all connected by the previous owners, so I have not done anything to change that.

Light fixture has a black, white, and a ground like all other fixtures I have installed.

The fixture is is powered on by a double wall switch. One switch controls two lights at once, and the other controls the fixture I am working to install.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!


texts: Why is my (white) painted plaster going brown on the borders of the underlying plasterboard?

texts:
We've recently had our spare bedroom ceiling plastered, and there was a loosish bit of plasterboard that was secured by the plasterer before skimming the entire ceiling.

After painting it I observed a strange brown patch following the line of the underlying plasterboard. The only thing I have ever seen that is similar to this is the brown marks that appear on painted wood where a knotting solution hasn't been applied, or from the corrosion from underlying rusted nails.

The spot itself is directly below an attic water tank which looks like it may have leaked in the past (when the previous owners still lived here). However a thorough examination of the area revealed it to be bone dry (as was the area before plastering, and is now).

Does, anyone have any thoughts as to what might be causing this and steps I should take to remedy it?


texts: How to fix a pinhole leak in water main inside my house?

texts:
I came home last night to find water on my basement floor. After looking around, I located a pinhole leak on the short segment of pipe coming into the house from the street. This is the one foot of pipe before my meter and house cutoff valve so there's no way to turn it off other than having the town turn it off at the street.

My plumber is telling me that, even though this is just a pinhole inside the house, it's probably indicative of the condition of the entire line and he says the only proper fix is to replace the entire line from street to the meter in the basement. Ouch.

Does this seem reasonable? I'm trying to grasp how such a small thing is going to cost me thousands (mostly because of digging a new ditch). The house was built in 1987. The short segment of pipe that is leaking appears to be copper although I don't know if that is usually true for the entire line out to the valve on the street? Let me know if there is other info I can provide to give a more complete picture.


texts:
I am running on 20A wiring (12/2) and replacing some unexpected knob and tubing-the previous owner thought it was a good idea to replace the knob & tubing in the basement and give the appearance the wiring was more modern than it really was.  Good thing I am doing this..  so I have 5 separate runs upstairs - 1 for  each of 3 bedrooms, 1 for the bathroom, and the last I was going to do the lighting on.

So I have a question.

I was originally planning on having one circuit for each room including the lighting?  But having the lighting on a separate circuit seems like a good idea as well.  Is there some convention that I should try to adhere?   I mean which is the best route...  Each room, including the light has it's on circuit or each room has it is own circuit, expect for the lighting (throughout the house-for the most part) - which will be on a separate circuit.  Maybe put some of the common electricity, e.g., hallway lighting. on a separate circuit?  Please chime in with some advice - I want to start wrapping up this project.


texts: How to clean water softer salt tank without disconnecting?

texts:
About 6mo ago, I replaced my 20+yo water softener with a Morton M34 model (resin tank inside salt tank).

When I disconnected the old one, I put all the salt from it in a box in my laundry room instead of disposing it.  Well, a couple weeks ago I had the brilliant idea to reuse that old salt (bad idea).  Now there is 6+in of "salt silt" in the bottom of the tank plus lots of brown floaties in the water.

I've let the salt level go down to as far as it will go on it's own and I would like to clean the rest of the "silt" out and start fresh but I can't reach the bottom of the tank to get it out.

I would prefer to not have to disconnect it and tip onto it's side if at all possible.

Ideas?


texts:
I just installed a ceiling fan on our patio. When turning on the power, the fan starts spinning as I would expect it to. After a few seconds however, the fan seems to be spinning only through inertia and eventually comes to a stop.  It doesn't seem to start again after waiting for a while (at least ten minutes)  Turning the switch off and on again will once more cause the fan to spin up, but it just stops once again shortly thereafter.

The direction switch on the fan doesn't change anything. The same behavior occurs whether the fan is set to spin clockwise or counter-clockwise.

Any ideas on what could be the cause and potential solution?

In case it's helpful, this is a 52" Tilghman fan by Harbor Breeze (#0294981) installed with a separately purchased 48" downrod.


texts: What size and type wire should I use to pigtail to my light switches?

texts:
what's more common for  light switches at home, 12 gauge or 14 gauge wire? how do I know what I have?
I need to pigtail my ground and neutral wires to connect to my new leviton decora smart light switch. what do I ask at home depot to buy these pigtail ground and neutral wires?
what does it mean by NM-B wire or THHN?  I don't know which one to buy for my light switch, and don't know the exact specs to ask for. thanks


texts: How do I wire a switch/receptacle combination?

texts:
Here's my current situation.  I've got 14/2 to the ceiling.  The hot wire has a runner, which runs down to the switch, and the other wire is a switched hot, back to the light.  The other side of the light is connected back to the 14/2 back to the breaker.

Some genius in the past, replaced the light switch with a switch receptacle combo.  Instead or re-running a 14/3, they simply went hot to the receptacle, and jumpered the neutral side straight to ground.   I have disconnected this, but now have a non-functional receptacle where I really need one.

I know I need to run a 14/3 down to the switch, and can easily make this work in a way that is safe and functional.  But, I'd also like it to be correct, so that no future person runs into any surprises.

So, what are the appropriate colours to use in my B/W/R 14/3?

I figure it should be a B-B wirenut in the ceiling, run the black to Switch. R Should be the switched hot to the light, and the light back to Line Neutral (White).

Now, for the receptacle, I can take the line off the hot to the switch, and run the free white runner back to line Neutral.

Is this correct?  What would an experienced electrician think if he came across that in the future?

EDIT: In the second diagram, the neutral and the ground are not connected.

RESOLVED:  Had to break drywall to get it done which led to a patch job. The old wire was stapled to the studs and I had to release it to use it as a fish.  Marked the red with electrical tape.


texts: Are there any issues with this Trap Door Garage "Attic" Design?

texts:
We have a two story house that has a garage that has half of the 2nd story covering it and the other half doesn't. I want to build an "attic" opening to be able to access to run cables and other things.
So if you can imagine a garage with the back half of it that's holding the weight of the 2nd story and front half of the garage that's empty with at least a 4-5 foot gap from the ceiling to the garage roof to move around. This is where I want to place my access hole opening.
The issue is, I'm not sure if it's safe or to code etc.
This is what the stud/wood layout is now. There are two 2x10 inch boards that are attached to each other with 9 inch gaps between the double studs that run from the back toward the front. Since the 2x10 inch boards are running side by side, this equals another 3 inches.

This is what I'm planning on doing. When I cut one of these double 2x10 beams, I will place adjacent pieces to hold the recently cut pieces on both sides. As you can see in the next image. With a 30 inch gap to be able to fit in and out of the hole.

I've never see a single video of anyone attempting to do this. And since these 2x10 beams are holding up part of the 2nd story, I wasn't sure if this was possible or a good idea. I honestly figured with so many double beams stretching across the garage, Cutting a single one couldn't possibly have any effect on the overall structure, but I wanted to ask about it anyway.
Birdeye View. I don't know how the beams are laid out on the left side of the garage. I'm assuming they run along a different path than the beams I've seen on the right side of the garage. I'm pretty positive the run on the path i've shown. But at the end of the day, it's irrelevant to the question.


texts: How do I build an on grade foundation for a shed?

texts:
After asking a couple of questions about what type of foundation to place an 8x10 vinyl shed, I am now ready to build an on grade foundation.  Can someone point me to detailed instructions for how to do this.  I've googled and can't find anything that goes into depth.  I'd be willing to buy a book if that's what I need to do.  My specific questions are:

how far apart should the blocks be?
how do I build the wooden frame?
how do I put the plywood on top?

update:  I found this http://www.usleisureoutdoor.com/storage-shed-platform.html

how do I attach the wood to my concrete blocks?


texts: Attach drywall directly to framed soffit without plywood/osb

texts: I have a really small soffit that I built for my kitchen to hide some HVAC. Is it ok to attach drywall directly to the 2x4 framed soffit or do I have to cover it in plywood or OSB first?


texts: Frigidaire clothes washer drum does not turn

texts:
My Frigidaire front loading washing machine has stopped turning. I have let it run through a short cycle, and the timer does run through the entire cycle. The drum fills up, and the pump operates to drain the tub, but when it is time for the drum to turn, nothing happens, not even any sounds. I did see the drum turn backwards slightly once, but that is all.

How can I troubleshoot this?

Additional information, took the top and back off. Watched it go through a cycle. Belt is fine. The motor does move periodically, but not much. Just enough to make the drum tun a bit. The drum turns easily. I think one of the controller boards inside has failed. Which one should I replace first.


texts: How long can a refrigerator be stored without being used?

texts: I purchased a refrigerator 8 months ago, but it will not be used right away. It came directly from the showroom. Must I use it now, or I can wait longer before using it?


texts: Can I use silicone to glue drain gasket to drain before setting tub?

texts: I am about to set a bathtub onto an already installed drain.  Before moving the cast iron tub into place I need to first set a rubber washer on drain assembly.  Since there is very access and the tub is a beast,  I'd like to adhere the gasket in place before moving the tub.  Could a put a layer of silicone down under the gasket to glue it in place?


texts: Is it a problem that my bathtub drains directly into the wall?

texts:
Here is what I see inside the hole

My landlord said is ok. But I think water going directly to wall can't be a good idea.

My question is how bad is it? Needs fixing right away?

If needs fixing, how can I fix. The side of the bathtub is sealed and I have no access to the bottom of the bathtub.

Thanks

Update: Finally they figured out this is not normal. Basically all the pipes below the bathtube fell down. They said the screw got loose and fell. The bath has other half ass fixes, which I guess are from previous tenant. To fix they had to open the wall on the side of the bath (thank god the tile can easily come up without breaking it) and they replaced with some custom pipes (different than original). I'm not sure if it works, but it should!


texts: Multiple in-wall bathroom heaters on same circuit

texts:
I am designing the electrical for a new-construction home. Targeting NEC 2017. I have two bathrooms, each of which will have an in-wall heater. The heaters run on 240V and draw 8 amps each. I would like to run one dedicated circuit (20 amp 240) to both of these heaters. Is that allowed by code?

These units will be hardwired, and that part of the code is confusing me because it appears each hardwired appliance must have its own dedicated circuit.


texts: What is the cheapest way to brighten a basement workshop?

texts:
I have a bare concrete block unfinished basement.  I have zero moisture problems (it's a 2007 construction with exterior waterproofing applied to the concrete along with a buried perimeter drain).  The point is, I am not concerned with adding waterproofing to the interior.

My main goal is to brighten the interior as much as possible.  Since this is for a workshop, I'm not worried about a smooth finish.  What's going to give me the most bang for my buck?


texts: How warm can power cables get while still being Ok?

texts:
I built a little man cave outside of the house. The whole thing is being fed by a single 20m wire, not sure what gauge, its just the one I had.

With all the electrical stuff turned on at the same time (computer, projector, ac, fridge, ventilation, lights) the combined power draw should be ~2.5kW. While its all on, I can feel the main cable being somewhat warm-ish, almost body temperature. Is that Ok?

Doesn't have to last forever, I have plans for next summer for some upgrades and am probably going to switch it out then anyways.


texts:
Last week, my toilet gushed water out between where the bottom of the bowl connects with the toilet drain pipe, while I was flushing it. It was so bad I had to turn off the supply valve before it finished flushing. Long story short, I mopped up and then unplugged the toilet. Ever since then, my 3 1/2 GPF 1977 vintage Colton toilet has worked fine. What baffles me is that when a toilet plugs up, it normally OVERflows over the bowl rim. But this time, it “UNDERflowed”(actually gushed under) between the bottom of the bowl, and the top of the toilet drain pipe, directly onto the bathroom floor. This is bizarre! Doesn’t that mean that the seal between the the bowl and the drain pipe was blown? But if that were the case, why has water not even leaked, (much less gushed) out of there since? I have since stopped putting orange pulp gristle in the bowl as I think that may be what plugged it up.

Also, this is the perfect time for me to get one of those new “low flow” dual flush toilets that only consume 1.6-1.28 GPF to conserve water. I would like to get one with the same footprint that my present toilet (see photo)has, so that I don’t have to re-tile. Does anybody have any recommendations for a new toilet?


texts: How can I install a Pull-Up Bar on a brick wall?

texts:
I want to install a pull-up bar on a brick wall but I am not sure at all if it will hold or not. I will try to give you some specifications about the wall and the bar and hopefully you can help me.

-The wall is 40cm (15.7 inches) thick, made by some kind of brick with holes, propably this one and the other side of the wall looks outside. (If you need more detailes on the brick i can look it up.)

-The Bar is a regular wall-mounted pull-up bar like this and the weight of the individual tops at 80kg (170 pounds).

Is it safe to install? What type of screws/bolts should I use?


texts: Framing interior non-bearing wall with 24" on center for sound proofing

texts:
I'd like to sound proof a few interior walls in my house using the techniques for the 52 STC here (http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproofing-walls/) which is basically 24" o.c. framing with R13 insulation and doubled 5/8" drywall with green glue product in between and acoustic chalk and putty pads.

My question is can I build a 2x4 stud wall with 24" on center and meet code? I'm in North Carolina.


texts: Are there manual pumps that can be use to drain water from a toilet prior to uninstalling it?

texts: I hate emptying a toilet of its residual water by the repetitive process of soaking it up with a rag and then ringing it out in the sink or a bucket.  There has to be some sort of manual, hand-held pump that I can use to remove the bulk of the water, leaving just enough left over that I can get it in one shot using the towel method.


texts: How to set-up a shelf in a tiled bathroom?

texts:
I am contemplating installing a shelf in my bathroom, and have set my sights on Ikea's Brogrund (number 304.089.79 in France, not sure is those are worldwide).

The screws to set it up on the wall are not included, and I have no idea of how to proceed.

My bathroom walls are tiled:

The left-hand side wall is an outside wall, so its tile|drywall|insulating foam|concrete.
The right-hand side wall is an inside wall, so its tile|drywall

Should I drill in a tile, or between them?
What kind of screw do I need? It is the same kind for both walls?


texts: Is it okay to plug a surge protector strip into a surge suppressing power outlet?

texts:
I just bought a house that has one of these where the TV would go. I do not want to change things or do any re-wiring.

It only has two ports. I have 4 devices:

A roku
TV
Soundbar
Samsung SmartThings hub

My thought was to use a normal surge protecting power strip and plug it into this wall outlet. But, since this wall outlet is surge suppressing, I am not sure if I should. Is it dangerous to do so?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-Recessed-TV-Media-Box-Kit-with-Surge-Suppressing-Outlet-and-Low-Voltage-Inserts-White-TV1WTVSSW/304271154


texts: Error F3C on Whirlpool convection microwave

texts:
My Whirlpool Microwave WMH76718AW-1 is giving me an F3C error when I try to use the convection oven feature. (All other functions OK.) I haven't located a tech sheet for this oven, and wonder if anyone could supply a PDF of the tech sheet for me, or otherwise tell me what the error likely points to.

Thanks!


texts: Why does my fluorescent light fixture take minutes to turn on in high heat and humidity?

texts:
Our kitchen fixture won't come on for 3 to 5 minutes when the temperature goes over 90°F (32.2°C) and 90% humidity. It flickers and only reaches 80% brightness after that. It will occasionally flicker in lower, but still warm temperatures. It is fine below 60°F (~15°C).

I have tried replacing the tubes using both standard and ES tubes.

We rarely get above 90°F (32.2°C) without going over 90% humidity so I can't tell if it is the heat or the humidity causing the issue.


texts: I have an old sewing machine with a non-polarized plug.  I would like to replace the cord and plug with a grounded, polarized cord and plug.  Can I simply connect the new cord's hot wire to the controller cable and motor and the neutral to the uncontrolled side of the motor and screw the ground wire into the metal case?


texts: Is there something that will completely cover two gangs of my electrical box below the drywall?

texts:
I previously installed a four gang box in a house. The problem with that box was it ended up being that it was so long that half of the box will be in the backsplash of the kitchen counter and half not in the backsplash.

I was thinking of covering two gangs of the box with possibly a piece of metal covering that would go on the device box (than drywalled over). I will replace it with another 2 gang box above or below it (therefore all four 3 way switches will have a home). I really wish they just had three way rocker switches. But they actually only have rockers switches that are a single pole and three way switch in one. No double 3 way rocker switches...

I cannot ungang the box since it's a solid 4 gang device box and I do not want to slide it out to replace with a 2 gang because it took a lot of fastening on both sides of the box, and the wall is finished and painted! (Heck maybe I will take it out).

So I believe from a code standpoint that should be fine since the box is still accessible (from the other two gangs...nothing will be in the end two that I want to cover). So do they have a part for this. I cannot think of a name of one. I just wanna be ready for tomorrow.


texts: What jig or template can I use to be able to drill in place through horizontal fence boards to be dead on holes in a steel post?

texts:
Imagine that I need to drill through boards that will be set horizontally and they will need to be attached to a post like below. For simplicity I will say that the boards will sit on top of each other and will be installed from bottom to top. This is a horizontal fence

The steep post has .20" diameter holes spaced 1" from each other
As in the picture on the other side there is a piece of 2x2 that is already screwed to the post. The post will be sandwiched between the boards and the backer 2x2  (see the detailed picture, zoom in at the bottom of this post)

I think I need a jig that will consist of a piece of wood with three short #10 machine screws that will lock the jig into position, vertically and then predrilled holes in the jig, holes that I will use as guide for drilling new ones
Yesterday I tried a similar approach but with screws ...their tip is very sharp and the jig (made slightly different) had errors and I ruined a couple of boards

Here are the specs and the instructions for this type of post

Any other I idea ?

Update: here is the fence I am trying to build


texts: Changing out old two wire switch to new three wire grounded switch

texts: I am trying to install a modern plug switch in kitchen to combine light and plug in. To a old two wire single pole switch with no ground.


texts: How to install drain in a wall above concrete foundation

texts:
I am usual successful finding answers with enough searching but it seems I've hit a dead end here.

Just started a kitchen remodel in our 104 year old home. Looking to move our kitchen sink to an adjacent wall in the house.  The issue I'm coming up against is that it looks like the outside wall where I need to install the drain / vent stack is sitting on the far side of an 8-10" foundation wall.

How on earth would one tackle running a drain down to the floor below (unfinished basement) from here?

In the photos attached you can see the floor after removing the rotted flooring and can catch a glimpse of the top of the foundation.  The other pictures are for context of the wall location.  The sink would go directly underneath the window.

Any help would be appreciated.!


texts:
I'm bringing a door in to a pro to strip the paint.  The guy doing the work is suggesting that I remove the glass from the door to (1) make sure it doesn't break accidentally during the process and (2) that the chemicals don't harm the glass (part of the glass is etched).

I'm somewhat skeptical of the reasons since it seems we are as likely to break the glass during the removal process and I wouldn't think the chemicals would harm the glass, but let's assume we want to remove the glass...

How do I remove the glass from the door?  I'm attaching two pictures from the interior side. Do I just pry off the strip of wood that goes around the glass?


texts: On what Building & Safety or any building' s Jurisdiction, within the United States, will this hand rail be acceptable and approved for residential usage.


texts: Why does my washer's spin cycle activate only when set to the "super" size?

texts:
I've inherited an old washer (GE WJSR2080).  It works fine, except that the spin cycle only works when the washer load size is set to the higher settings.  When set to the small setting, it sounds like it's trying to spin but cannot.  My hunch is that this isn't an out-of-balance issue (the small loads I've tried seem well balanced), but I'm willing to accept that it could be related.

Any thoughts on what could cause this?

I'd obviously like to keep using this as long as possible so if there's something I can do to prolong the life of the machine, that would be great.  Also, it'd be nice to not waste water.


texts: Which material to use for filling those gaps?

texts:
After removing all the wallpaper and some wooden bars that were nailed at the corner of the walls and ceiling all around the room, I now have space that require to be filled at some points (ceiling - wall corner).

The space is like 3 to 8cm deep. What is the best material to use for filling that type of space?


texts: How does a 3-way motion sensor switch interact with the mechanical switch on the circuit?

texts:
I want to install a 3-way circuit covering a hallway and stairwell. The top of the stairs and hallway would be covered by the motion sensor and the bottom by the mechanical switch. What happens if I turn on the mechanical switch and never trigger the motion sensor? Does the sensor turn the circuit off after a certain time without motion? Or do I need to either trigger the motion sensor on or manually turn off the mechanical switch?

Just to be clear, I understand how a 3-way switch works and how the motion sensor works. It's just the mixing of the motion sensor and mechanical switch that confuses me.

Thanks!


texts: How useful is double-glazed glass for sound and heat insulation in a semi-tropical climate?

texts:
I'm located in Bombay/Mumbai, and I've been trying to figure out what windows I should install for soundproofing and heat insulation.

I was talking to someone who does consultation for uPVC windows. He said that
double-glazed glass (two sheets of glass with an inert gas in between) was almost useless from the point of view of sound insulation. He said double-glazed glass was mostly useful for heat insulation.

He also said that in a Bombay climate, heat insulation was not that useful For people who don't know, the climate here gets up to around the high 30s C, say like 38 C or so max, but never gets cold enough to require heating sources.  So, the question is whether double glazing is useful in these sorts of conditions. In this case one would be trying to stop the heat from coming in, particularly during the summer.

So, his recommendation was that of 12 mm toughened glass, vs a double-glazed approach, which would be like 5 mm + 6 mm glass sheets, separated by a 12 mm gas enclosure.

I'm sceptical about this, so I am asking here. I had a number of other people recommend double-glazed glass as though it was the natural solution. I did find some support for this statement from this random web page - http://www.stormwindows.co.uk/index.php?id=42, which says

  Typical 4mm toughened glass will provide a mean noise reduction of Rm
  = 27dBA while double glazing with a 12mm hermetically sealed air-filled cavity, again using 4mm toughened glass, gives Rm = 29dBA.
  This 2dBA difference in sound intensity between single and double
  glazing would barely noticeable for the average person, thus
  demonstrating that standard double-glazing is not always a suitable
  and cost effective solution for noise insulation.

Of course, one should not believe everything one reads online. So, I'm asking here if anyone can direct me to reputable sources about this.

One additional concern is whether the gas can escape over time, in the case of double-glazed glass.


texts: Determine the best placement for attic ladder installation

texts:
I have recently purchased an attic ladder from HD to install myself in my townhouse.  I have determined 2 good installation points that will not interfere with future furniture placement. The options are

Install the ladder in the hall, with the stairs facing the master Bedroom.
Install the ladder in the master bedroom, going away from the hallway.
Install the ladder in the master bedroom, opening into the hall.

Note, the unit says it needs 6'2" swing clearance, which means it must go into the bedroom door slightly, otherwise I cannot trim the unit.

Which open is best, does it matter?


texts:
The wiring for a 240 v dryer shocked me when I hooked it up.  Samsung dryer had a 240v three wire connection.  I wired neutral to the center and the two 110v on each side.  There was a white wire grounded to the chassis as well as a green wire. I plugged it in and touched the washer and dryer at the same time and got a shock.  I metered out the 240V connector and it seemed fine.
I have an electrical sniffer and plugged it in and the dryer cabinet was hot.  The washer was not.
I don't think that the white wire was supposed to be hooked to the cabinet.  It goes internal into the dryer, so I can't trace it inside of the dryer.

It is wired according to the instruction, but something is foul!  Any advice.


texts: I need a concrete footing to be 5 feet tall. What circumference and reinforcement do I need?

texts: I am building a deck which will be 24 feet off the ground.  In order to use shorter posts can I build footings that will be approx. 5 feet tall from the soil line?  If so, how wide around (circumference) should the footing be and what is the best way to reinforce it?  And, how deep should the footing be underground?


texts: What size gasket to use on tub overflow drain?

texts:
I have an old tub and the gasket for the overflow had broken down to nothing. I bought a new foam rubber gasket at Ace, but it's tapered more than the tub is slanted. When I fit the gasket in, there was a big gap at the top, and the gasket pushes the pipe so far from the tub that the screws can't reach the threads to compress it to fit.

There is about a 1/4" gap at the bottom and a 3/16" gap at the top. The gasket is 9/16" to 3/16"

Should I get longer screws? Are there more narrow gaskets? Any tips for forcing the pipe closed to engage the screws?

Here's a photo. The edges of the drain hole are really corroded. Should I try to fix that somehow while I'm here? I don't want to open up a can of worms, but I'm worried about it leaking again in the near future.


texts:
I have R19 fiberglass batts in my attic. There are large soft insulated HVAC ducts covering the batts in some places. I would like to put in new R30 on top of the R19. What is the proper way to install it near the existing HVAC ducts? Should it go over them, under them, or up to them?
Thank you


texts: Is conduit required when running a short distance to an adjacent 60 amp subpanel?

texts: I am installing a surface mounted 60 amp subpanel 5 inches to the right of my current surface mounted main panel. For the short run, can I use 6/3 non-metallic cable w/ground between the two panels using two clamp connectors and staple it to the plywood or do I have to run individual #6 THHN conductors and #10 THHN ground in conduit instead? I only have smaller size holes available on the side of my main panel, which makes attaching larger conduit to accommodate the 4 wires more difficult.


texts: How do I get the glass off this ceiling fixture

texts:
I have this light fixture in my bathroom, and need to replace the bulb. But I can’t get the glass dome off.

There are no threads between the glass and the plastic mount/base. And no externally visible clips or screws. I can pull the whole dome down, off the plastic base, by about an inch or so. Feels like it is mounted with a spring mechanism inside, because it resists and when I let go, snaps back up.

Tried with a little extra force but it won’t budge further than an inch.  And the base has an inner rim which means I can’t get a good peek into the inner works.

Tried jiggling, rotating and even pushing up. No luck so far.

Any idea how this is supposed to work?


texts:
Is it OK to use 15 amp receptacles with 12 gauge wire?

With a 15 amp breaker?
With a 20 amp breaker?


texts: my new exhaust bathroom fan wiring issue

texts: The fan unit itself has a black wire, a white wire, and 2 green/yellow wires. Where do I tie in the green/yellow wires?


texts: Where do I connect a C wire in a Rheem Furnace REAB 1415J?

texts: I'm upgrading the thermostat with a Honeywell wifi one. I found all cables at the thermostat end, but can't figure out where to connect the C wire to the furnace (Rheem REAB 1415J).


texts: Installing a Bath Fan Without Attic Access?

texts:
I'm looking to install a bath fan (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Breez-GreenBuilder-Series-100-CFM-Wall-or-Ceiling-Bathroom-Exhaust-Fan-ENERGY-STAR-GBR100/204347760) in a bathroom on the second story.

The bathroom doesn't have the attic over it though, and there is about 1' to the roof.

My question pertains as to how to mount the fan though. The manual (https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/af/af6d5071-25ee-4203-8969-8983c5237ae3.pdf) assumes that this is "new work" or that the attic is accessible.

Brackets were included in my box, but I don't think I'll be able to use them since the rectangle I'll be cutting is the length of the fan (about 8").

I noticed that there are holes in the side of the box (Marked in the picture) in the picture below. If the fan was placed against one of the joists and then screwed into place from below using the screws provided through these holes, would this be an acceptable technique?


texts:
The usual way to tape a typical butt drywall joint is to put .5 cm of drywall compound over the joint to create a bed of "mud", then add tape, press in to get excess "mud" out, then apply more "mud" over the top of everything.

This all-purpose drywall compound shrinks as it dries because the water evaporates out of it. Does this evaporative shrinking introduce voids under the tape?

This seems especially to be the case for factory edges because they're so significantly tapered that a good deal of drywall compound is required to fill the space. This means there will be a good deal of shrinking if, for instance, drywall compound loses 15% of its volume to evaporation (just an off-the-cuff guess). Tighter joints (cut so that they fit very tightly) won't suffer the same amount of shrinkage (by volume) though there are other problems with not having a good amount of drywall compound in the joint.


texts: New floor up to new cabinets already installed or under? New construction home

texts:
I purchased a new construction home through a commercial builder. I will be closing on the house in a few weeks and opted to do the hardwood floor myself to save some money.

I did upgrade the cabinets and I am happy with the current counter tops. I would prefer to have the floor go under the cabinets but the cabinets have to be in along with an linoleum floor to close on the house.

I don't want a sloppy job on a brand new home with trim all around the baseboard of the cabinets.  I was considering pulling out the cabinets to do the job right,  or putting the floor up to the toe kick with a proper gap but putting another toe kick in front to cover the gap cleanly.

I am willing to spend the extra time for the best appearance but without destroying the cabinets or countertops I have.  If I were to take out the cabinets what issues could I run into?  I know the countertop which is a laminated countertop is glued to the wall, will this be hard to separate and reuse without destroying it?  Will the upper cabinets need to be raised the difference of the height of the floor thickness when the cabinets are put on top of the floor?

If I were to lead the floor up to the baseboard what are my options to make it look the best? There is a register vent in the toe kick that is flush with the current floor, what is the best way to relocate this higher? Can I just move it up a little or do I need to add some duct work to prevent cool/warm air from blowing on the exposed hardwood floor near the bottom of the register?

Also, can I lay the hardwood floor directly over the linoleum?  I would hate to have to remove all that. Would anything else need to go between the hardwood and linoleum if so?

This is my first time doing something like this, so all information is helpful.  Thanks!


texts:
I have a big crack in my wall. Don't have a photo but looks like the image below.  Its about 5 times 3 inches and deep you can see the bricks behind.
I want to use this product to fill it as it is allergy friendly  https://auropaint.co.uk/product/natural-wall-filler-no-329/
However correct me if im wrong but I think you need to use a spray to fill these big holes rather than a paste?
If I can use the product how shoudl I go about filling it?  Should I try to put some card behind the wall then paste over it, can I just apply some paste at the bottom and build up?
Thanks.


texts: How to protect outdoor transformer plugging into in-use outlet?

texts:
I have an outdoor DC transformer for lighting system that must connect to an outdoor outlet. It's not hardwired. So if I plug this transformer to an in-use outlet permanently, how do I ensure that this transformer is protected from rain and weather challenges? Or do the transform OK to be just "strapped" to somewhere on top of the ground (meaning it's weatherproof)?

I am not sure if all outdoor transformers coming with the lighting kit are weatherproof itself. Just to be specific, I am talking about the "Kerr Lighting (Model # KDEC04-14-088K) Deck/Dock-Mount 14-Light Outdoor Light Kit."

I was reading this post http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/lawn-garden/how-to/a8906/how-to-put-in-low-voltage-landscape-lighting-15326645/ and they said "Next, drive a pressure-treated 2 x 6 stake into the ground next to an outdoor electrical outlet. Attach the transformer to the stake with galvanized or stainless-steel screws. Secure the cable to the stake with insulated cable staples." which is pretty much simple. However, I don't know if this is correct.


texts: Replaced pull chain switch in hanging lamp.  After rehanging both bulbs came on but only one will turn off and on, the second bulb stays on constantly.   Do I need to reverse the switch wires or the wires from lamp to electric box?


texts: Under sink has cylindrical fixture instead of J-pipe, what is it and how to clear it out?

texts:
Part of my problem is not knowing the names of what I'm referring to, so feel free to suggest title edits please.
A bathroom sink is draining very slowly after someone bearded shaved, despite them gathering most of the hair out of the sink. I expected some hair to be clogging the J-trap, but when I went to clean that out, I found there is no J-trap and instead the sink drains into the lower end of a cylinder, with the cylinders outflow on the top. Pictures below. It looks like a garbage disposal to me, but that doesn't make sense because this cylinder is not directly connected under the sink and also it is not powered.
I think the cylinder might have the same purpose as a J-trap, given water enters it low and has to rise up high to drain out. That would mean there is (always?) standing water in the sink's drain pipe, at the same height as the cylinder's outflow pipe, because how else would water leave this cylinder.
My question is: what is this cylinder, and how to I clean it out like a P or J trap? I thought to unscrew the base of it since it has the square bottom to grip and turn, then catch what drains out and use a stick to poke out remaining gunk. Figured I'd ask here first, and may also try plunging or poking around the sink drain itself first to see if that solves the problem. Thanks.


texts: Should I sand Kliz High-Build primer before painting?

texts:
I am painting medium oak-stained wood closet doors white.  I bought Kliz High-Build primer because I wanted to cover the stain color well.  I sanded the stained door and now I am done with a coat of this primer, and I think I will do a second coat of primer before applying regular satin white paint.

Should I lightly sand before the second coat to get a smoother finish?  After?  Hand-sand or use my orbital sander?


texts: How would I wire an indoor motion sensor light so to also be able to turn it on with a remote light switch?


texts: Is it safe to encapsulate lead shot with epoxy?

texts:
I hope this is the right SE for this question.  If not please point me in a better direction.  I'm working on a project that requires a counterweight in a tight/organic space.  I'm trying to maximize the weight so I need a dense material -- the denser the better.  A material that's easy to machine would be OK, but ideally something that could conform to the space would be better.

These requirements led me to consider lead shot or lead wool as an option.  My concern is obviously safety.  I'm wondering if it is safe to encapsulate the lead with something like epoxy.

My understanding is that lead poisoning typically arrises from ingestion, inhalation, and dermal contact.  I imagine that if I encapsulate the lead in something like epoxy then those three pathways are no longer relevant, but I'm just not sure and would rather avoid taking chances.  Maybe the only risk is during the encapsulation process?  Clearly lead is used in a variety of applications with human contact (e.g. lead vests for x-ray) so there must be someway to properly shield it from the surrounding environment.


texts: A few questions about installing engineered hardwood

texts:
I'm installing engineered hardwood for the first time next week. The wood I've chosen is    Wire Brushed Strand Woven Cocoa Bean 3/8 in. T. x 5-1/5 in. W. x 36.02 in. L. Click Lock Bamboo Flooring (13sq.ft./case) Model # 300011041 (Home Depot)

I'm wondering a few things:

What type of tape should I use to join together pieces of underlayment?
What type of nails/staples should I use for installation?
What's the recommended expansion gap?


texts:
I have a small shed and a few extra solar panels (about 400 watts worth). It's a cold area and I'd like to just convert the electricity to heat. I thought maybe a dummy load would work.

Basically I'm looking for a simple way to convert 12 volt (or 24) electrical energy to heat. Anything I can do to heat the shed up would be great. I'd like an answer independent of building and electrical codes because whatever ideas I get I can look into how those fit. This is a very rural area.


texts: How far down should sheetrock come in a shower tub installation?

texts: How far down should sheetrock come in a shower/ tub installation?


texts: Is surface-mounted cabling on my basement ceiling a threat to my safety?

texts: I am concerned about a wiring issue in a basement of a home I will be moving to. Someone put paneling on the ceiling and the wiring is stapled to the paneling and some of the wires are bundled together and wire tied. Is this unsafe, and what can I do about it?