texts: Would it work if I glued a new closet flange to an existing closet flange?

texts: abs closet flange is 1 and half inch lower than floor. the flange inlet is ID 4 inches. I am thinking of use some abs cement to glue a new abs flange into the existing one. (I assume 4x3 flange can go fit snugly into a 4 inch inlet?)  I did some google search but have not found anyone recommending doing this.  Would it work?


texts: Should I clean my boiler room duct (ventilation)?

texts:
Our boiler room in our house is in our half above/half below ground basement. We have a new 100,000 BTU boiler that was installed last year. We also have a gas hot water heater next to it. In the boiler room on an adjacent wall is a 6 inch duct that hangs close to the ground (but not touching it), which then goes up and through the wall. It vents to the outside on the side the house. The vent on the outside of the house has a metal grate on it. The metal grate has a significant amount of debris stuck in it which looks like it has been there for years. I am assuming this duct is there to provide a source of combustion air to keep pressure balanced in the boiler room, but I am hoping someone can confirm this?
If correct, is it a big issue if it is blocked/clogged? I also have a CO2 monitor right outside the boiler room door as a precaution. I was planning to clean out the grate and vent as it doesn't appear it has ever been done, but my concern is if I clean it out, should I expect a lot more cold air to enter the boiler room? I have a suite in my basement and I am worried that it might get too cold down there for our tenants. I have attached pictures below for reference.
I was also wondering if our new boiler might have a fresh air exchanger built in so I don't have to worry? But I am just guessing, I am not sure if this actually exists.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!


texts: What to look for in a home security system?

texts:
We're in the process of researching home security systems for a house.  We're in the process of remodeling (door change, painting, etc), so I'd like to do that at the same time.  Our contractor has a standard solution that they are pushing on us.  I have no reason to mistrust them, but I also don't want to adopt a system without doing a modicum of research.

I  am looking for:

General advice on security systems,
Sources of impartial information on same (like CR),
Any input on key and not so key features for a security system (motion sensors, glass break sound sensor, contacts at doors and windows, etc, etc).

At this point I am not looking for general security advice (making the house less attractive, getting a dog, etc).

Our house is in an upper middle class area of town, and is certainly a potential target.  We have several entry doors and several ground-level or accessible windows.


texts: flow diverter for a nonstandard tub installation

texts:
I installed an antique clawfoot tub in a tiled & grouted sunken recess (originally a built-in japanese-style soaking tub) which required me to install an s-shaped tub outlet, so as to clear the lip of the tub as shown in the photo.
To divert flow up to the shower head, I tried installing a shower flow diverter valve on the end of the s-pipe, but the flow through the diverter is so restricted that when I want to fill the tub, only a thin jet of water exits the valve outlet into the tub while water backs up all the way to the shower head, which then dribbles like crazy.
I did a temporary fix by screwing a pipe cap onto the end of the s-pipe to block it completely when I want to use the shower head and then unscrewing it when I want to fill the tub, which yields unrestricted flow into the tub with no dribble from the shower head.
This is a clumsy fix, but I cannot find a diverter valve for the end of that s-pipe which provides full flow (like the ordinary tub spout diverter with the pull knob, which will not fit on the end of that s-pipe) without backing up and causing the shower head to dribble.
Does anyone here have any ideas about how to address this problem, short of plumbing in a completely new faucet set/flow diverter/shower head assembly?


texts: How do I make sure that a new washing machine doesn't overflow?

texts:
My house suffers from a chronic lack of planning on the part of the designer. For example: the piping to my washing machine is both too small, and angled so that the water has to run uphill. This means that unless we interrupted the machine every 50 seconds or so, the pipes would overflow and spill water all over our carpet. Not fun.

So, our washing machine now looks like it is dead (of unrelated causes), and I was wondering how I might find a replacement which simply empties a little slower. They don't normally advertise "rate which the water is pumped out." Is there some number that is commonly used to determine how powerful the pump is? Or should I look into alternate means of stopping this overflow problem?


texts: Securing French cleats to drywall over lath and plaster with structural screws

texts:
I'd like to build a French cleat storage system on an exterior wall in my basement shop, but am concerned about whether the cleats will have sufficient support given the construction of the wall. The wall is constructed of 3/4" drywall over lath and plaster (~1/2" of plaster over 3/8" laths), with additional 1/4" and 3/4" boards between the laths and the studs.

My current plan is to use 5/16" x 5 1/8" structural screws (rated as equivalent to a 1/2" lag bolt) to attach the cleats, two per cleat per stud, as shown in the diagram below. (I have not shown the screw details because my Sketchup skills aren't quite there yet.) The structural screws will be countersunk 3/16" since they have a washer head.

A photo showing the actual materials (minus the stud, which is covered by insulation, and the drywall, which is not visible in the area where I have this cross-sectional access):

I have questions on a couple aspects of this:

1) Will the 1 13/16" depth of the screw in the stud provide sufficient withdrawal resistance?

2) Can I rely on any of the intervening material to provide any support as far as shear resistance, or do I effectively have about 2 1/2" of unsupported screw? And if the latter, can this possibly hold any significant weight? If not, do I have any options other than a) not doing the project or b) completely ripping out the drywall and lath and plaster to secure the cleats more directly to the studs?

3) Would using a toggle bolt into the lath-and-plaster between the studs be wise in addition to (or instead of) the structural screws into the studs with such a long unsupported length?

Thanks!

EDIT: Additional information requested by commenters:

I have had some (modest) success using a small metal detector to locate the nails in the laths. I have first located the drywall screws and then used those as a guide to locate the lath nails; they register faintly but some do register. My plan was to mark these and then drill small test holes to ensure I hit a stud at the expected depth rather than a cavity (I expect I might need to do 2-3 per stud to ensure I can find the center).
The studs are spaced approximately 16" o.c. in other parts of the basement where the lath and plaster has been cut away sufficiently for me to visually inspect them. I say approximately because there seems to be some variance of up to 1/2", and in at least one case the distance is 22". The nails/screws I have been able to locate in this wall are also approximately 16" o.c.
The studs themselves are 2x6; they are slightly larger than today's 2x6s as I believe they date from the original construction of the house in 1900. Most of the house has been remodeled or added on to, but this side of the basement is mostly original except for the addition of the drywall, which obviously is much newer.
I plan to use the cleats for hanging various power tools, accessories, clamps, etc. I would expect the total weight per cleat per stud will not exceed 100lbs. But more accuracy here is probably desirable.
Lastly, sadly, yes, Seattle is definitely in a seismic zone. My plan was to follow a suggestion I saw from someone who built French cleats in California who used some short cut-off nails inserted in an angled hole in the back of the shelves such that they protruded just below the cleat to prevent upward movement that would cause the cleat to "jump off", but could be easily removed to reposition it.


texts: How can I add a GFCI breaker on two circuits with a shared neutral without rewiring?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  How do I install a GFCI receptacle with two hot wires and common neutral?

I have a pool to protect correctly.  There is a 12/3 wire: red serves the receptacles at the bottom of the pole lights and the black serves the pole lights.  Now they are on two separate breakers.  I was going to put a single pole GFCI on the receptacle line but I know that I can't share the neutral.

I see 3 options:

Can I put both the red and black on the same single pole?  I think it is against code but would it work?  I don't need the 20A for lights and the outlets.
Is the double pole option with the single ground right?
Wire the first outlet in the series with a GFCI .... but I'm not sure that works because the pole lights after it again share the same neutral.

I'm not pulling new wire ... It's underground.


texts: Is 1/2" plywood sufficient in strength as a 40"x28" table top?

texts: I'm looking to make a 40" by 28" table for a six year old. I would like to use 1/2" plywood for the top and for two shelving units attached below. Those shelving units will also serve as the front two legs, one on each side. Would 1/2" be sufficient for strength and stability of the table? I would rather not use 3/4" only because I would like to be able to move it more easily.


texts: Adding old-work box without making a large hole?

texts:
I am changing out the vanity light, above a sink and mirror, in a bathroom.

The old light fixture had it's own wall plate screwed to the wall that the wires ran into from a hole in the drywall behind.

The new light fixture (just under 10lb in weight) requires an electrical box (as well as being a code requirement.) This house was built in 1980 and does not have an electrical box in the wall so I need to add one.

There are no studs within a few inches (the light needs to be directly above the sink) so I could use a braced box like this:

But I'd like to avoid tearing a large hole in the drywall if I can safely avoid it.

So, I'm thinking I could attach strips of plywood behind the hole to spread the weight out over a larger area and add one of these:

The ears of this would rest on the plywood. This way I don't need to make a hole larger than the box.

Do you think this setup will hold a 10lb fixture (assuming the drywall is OK) or should I just rip the hole and add the braced version?


texts: How to attach cedar boards to a removable fence frame?

texts:
So here is the fence. The purple things are J hinges which make the panel removable
The frame is installed flush with the 4x4 so that when I attach the planks to the frame the planks will be flush with the post fences.

Question: for attaching these horizontal planks to the fence I have two options

use screws from outside and the screw heads will be visible  (don't like this)
use screws from inside but they have to be sized properly to make sure they do not completely penetrate the horizontal planks.

The planks will be 1x2/3/4x8 and the frame is made by 2x4 cedar so I will have 3/4"+1.5" of wood to penetrate Since the screw must stay hidden that means I will have to have something like 2" screws that will penetrate the horizontal planks for 1/2". Will this hold?

Edit: The frame was put together using brakets like the one below because the hinges were too close to the corners and long screws would have reached the bolts used to attach the hinge to the frame

And here is the hinge

but we used this


texts: Can a normal fridge be quieter than one with inverter compressor?

texts:
I can't decide between

Liebherr CN 4015
and
Panasonic NR-BN34FW1

Both are good candidates for me but not sure about the brands, and my major concern is the noise. I was led to believe that inverter compressor is quieter but my findings based on forum threads and reviews are inconclusive. I'd imagine it almost never runs at full speed or at least most of the time it's on minimum (like my Panasonic AC). I have no problem with low hum even if it's constant, but I can't stand high pitched cricket noise. Could it be that Liebherr's solution is actually quieter? If I want to believe the decibel rating then it's the case.

BTW: Panasonic lists "Compressor - no" which is ridiculous on the spec sheet, I've also seen they write "induction" there, not sure if that's a real thing or just another name for inverter compressor...


texts: How do i hook up a new 5 wire cable to an existing 4 wire furnace

texts:
I would like to replace the existing thermostat wires on my 2000's era janitorial furnace with the upgraded 5 wire setup that will allow fan control of my Honeywell wifi 9000 thermostat. I was going to just try and figure out how to jump the green G wire, but i would really prefer to just run a new wire.

What I would like to know is how do I wire the new wires to the old unit? As in who do each of the new wire's correspond with the existing 4 wires that connect to the circuit board on the existing furnace.

I do believe that the other "pink wire" that connects to the Y wire connects to the AC condenser... not 100% sure but I believe so.

Photo 1: Back of thermostat face plate and wires
Photo 2: Wires right before going into HVAC unit
Photo 3: Wires being connected to the HVAC unit

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


texts: How is this plan for repairing load bearing rotting posts with epoxy (pics included)

texts:
My carport has five 4x4 posts with two of them are showing serious signs of rot. I have attached a photo of the worst and 2nd worst looking one, and what the other ones look like. At first I thought the only way to repair the posts was to replace them. However some epoxy’s have incredible bonding stength, load bearing strength and water resistance properties. My plan to repair them with epoxy as follows:

On each side of the post, cut the blacktop a couple inches away from the post, and expose the full length of the post.
Remove as much rotting material from the posts as possible with a small chisel
Liberally Spray a wood preservative solution of copper napthenate (green preservative) to halt the rot’s progression
Prebuild forms that will be put around the posts once the resin mixture is ready, and spray them with silicone spray so they will come away from the resin a little easier.
Mix West Systems 105 Resin with West Systems 206 Slow Hardener, and thicken the mixture with West Systems 403 Microfibers. Note, I may not necessarily use West Systems products, but something similar such as from conserve: http://conservepoxy.com/category/Rot-Repair-Epoxies.htm .
Let the Resin cure for a day or so and remove the columns.
Prime and Paint the posts, including the repaired area.
Repair blacktop and raise the blacktop enough such that rain water will slope away from the posts.
I got this idea from a blog here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/saving-the-deck/

What do you think, is my plan sound?


texts:
While looking through a hole in the drywall, I saw this...

Is this asbestos?


texts: plastic sheeting under monolithic concrete slab

texts:
I'm trying to figure out how to put the vapor / moisture barrier under a monolithic concrete slab. Do I just put the plastic down and drape it over the form, and then cut to ground level when done (like the red line in the picture)? Will it stay attached to the concrete?

Or do I just put the plastic across the bottom and leave the perimeter exposed?

I included a picture to try and explain my question. Hope it's clear.

Thanks!


texts: How to get rid of mold behind garage door railing

texts:
Is this soot or mold:

The metal bar you see are the garage door railing. I'm looking up at the ceiling.

How do I get rid of this mold? Do I need to cut the drywall away? Or can I just spray it with something?

Thanks for your help in advance.


texts: GFCI/AFCI Trips With No Load And New Wire

texts:
I moved into a house last year that has some 2-wire receptacles, and some 3-wire receptacles. I have been adding GFCIs and AFCIs where required. I recently removed the conductors and old receptacles from a circuit and replaced them with a 12 gauge two wire with ground. The first receptacle from the breaker panel is a GFCI/AFCI. I have one receptacle wired from the load side of the GFCI/AFCI receptacle, and then one wired from the 2nd receptacle. I have been noticing that the GFCI/AFCI will be tripped when I check on it. The GFCI trip light is on when it trips. I'll reset it, go to bed, and it'll be tripped the next day. There are no loads connected to this circuit.

The other day I turned on the lights in the basement (florescent) and as soon as they turned on, the GFCI trips. It only happened once and I haven't been able to repeat it.

To troubleshoot, I have tried the following:

Replaced GFCI/AFCI
Replaced all of the wire
Disconnected the wire on the load side of the receptacle

So, here's the summary of problem:

Changing receptacles 2-wire to 3-wire
Wiring and receptacles on this circuit are new
Using existing circuit breaker
GFCI trips on GFCI/AFCI receptacle with no loads on it
I have replaced the GFCI/AFCI and still have the same problem
Wiring and work was checked

Any ideas what could be the problem?

Pictures:


texts: What is the thing called that is located in this shower door frame?

texts: I need help finding this part of a shower door. What is it called? It prevents water from going outside of the shower. Thanks


texts: How can I determine whether pipes in my basement are actually drains?

texts: So I've had a plumber friend tell me the best way to see if 3 pipes in my basement are drains is to put a Garden hose in them and run the water.  What if the pipes under the slab are cracked?  Won't water just sit there then under the slab?  Sounds bad


texts: Are there restrictions on having all the lights on one floor on a single circuit breaker?

texts:
I'm rewiring my house to eliminate knob and tube wiring on my second story.  The panel only has 20 spaces, so I'm trying to be economical.

My upstairs floor plan is a 70 sqft bathroom and 3 bedrooms, total area of the bedrooms is 500 sqft.  Each has a wall sconce and a single outlet per room.  Bathroom already has a ceiling light/vent/heater on its own 20A circuit, professionally installed.

As far as I can tell, NEC 2017 allows all recepticles and light fixtures in the bathroom other than the light/vent/heater to be on one 20A circuit, which in my case is a single recepticle and a vanity light.

I plan to put all 3 bedrooms and the hall light on two 15A circuits, one for all the light fixtures and one for all the recepticles.  That will come out to 4 light fixtures on one 15A circuit and 6 outlets on the other 15A circuit.

Both bedroom breakers will be AFCI and the bathroom breaker will be dual function AFCI/GFCI.

I can't find anything saying otherwise, is it code compliant to wire my upstairs this way, such that all lights except the bathroom light are on one circuit?


texts: Residential water pressure booster operation & reliability

texts:
We live on the top of a hill and thus have fairly low city water pressure (35psi) arriving at our house. I have a chance of saving quite a bit of money on my water bill by potentially reducing this pressure a bit further (see How can I determine what size main water meter is required?).

To compensate, I might have to consider getting a residential pressure booster pump (like this one) as suggested by @virtualxtc in an answer to the question mentioned above. Before deciding to do so, I have a couple of general questions about these pumps:

If such a pump breaks, what happens to the water supply to the house? Does it simply go back to the pressure it had before installation of the pump? Or is the pressure now much lower? Or, worse, would this shut off water to the house entirely? (Let's only consider things like motor failures, since I would expect these to be much more common than tank or pipe ruptures)
How long can I expect these pumps to last before an expensive repair or replacement?
Do these pumps use a "noticeable" amount of electricity?
I guess, if anyone knows it, the most useful thing to know would be a rough idea of the total annual cost of ownership that I would need to expect.

Thanks


texts: Re-painting drywall after patching leaves tones

texts:
I patched a few scrapes and small holes in the drywall, then got a can of color-matched paint in the hardware store (I took a sample with me, they color-matched it and prepared the paint). It is a white color anyways.

However after I applied a first coat, I clearly see that there is a difference in color tones on the wall - the new coat is "darker" then the original one. So I applied the 2nd coat at one part of the wall to see any changes - but I see no difference.

Was I supposed to apply a primer first? Isn't it late now to apply it and then re-paint?

Thanks.


texts: How to Break Apart an Unbreakable Humidifier to Clean It

texts:
My humidifier of less than 1 year of use no longer works and Google says to clean mineral deposits.
How do I break it apart to clean it and get it working again?
When I google this, it doesn't show my type of humidifier. It shows videos where people break apart humidifier with ease and clean, https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=clean+visible+mist+ultrasonic+humidifier
Every week I always cleaned per Hunter's instructions, but they don't say how to clean mineral deposits.
I contact Hunter and no one is able to help :-(
Below is Hunter Humidifier

Inside of Bottom Lid

Hole on Top Lid I am Unable to Clean <- I think if I clean this my humidifier will work!

Other side of hole with mineral deposits. Steam comes out of here


texts: What is this four connector-post, square electrical device mounted to my interior wall?

texts:
I stumbled across this device while renovating the bedroom of my house. It is screwed into the wall. There is only one wire going into it. The wire has several small diameter wires inside the sheathing and those wires are connected to the device in some nontrivial fashion.

Is it something abandoned?


texts:
Recently, four of the six battery-operated smoke alarms in our house have started going off every few days, for no obvious reason. The four that have been going off are of three different models, including both ionization and optical types. They are not wired together. We have a CO alarm which has not been going off.

This happens in the absence of any obvious source of smoke, dust, water vapour etc.

So the question is: what, apart from the obvious, would cause multiple types of alarms to go off?


texts: What distance apart should metal stud securing brackets be placed?

texts:
I have hired a contractor to line the walls of an old apartment with metal stud and drywall as the walls are very uneven. The drywall is up but the walls have quite a lot of give in them, if I push against them with my hand the wall wobbles a little, is this acceptable?  I would expect there to be no give at all.
I suspect that this is because the contractor has not secured the stud to the wall with enough mounting brackets, either to save time or money. Is there a standard spacing for securing stud to the wall, my walls are approx 3 metres high and the contractor has used 1 bracket per stud, in some cases there seems to be no bracket, the stud is just screwed at the top and bottom.
Thanks a lot, I can't afford to have this fixed afterwards so need to make sure this guy does it right before it is plastered.


texts: Lineset sizing for multi-zone mini-split

texts:
I'm installing a 48k multi-zone mini-split in the garage.  The zones are 18k, 18k and 12k.  All of the indoor units say they require 1/4" x 1/2" linesets in the install manuals.  The condenser has 5 x 1/4" liquid ports, 3 x 3/8" and 2 x 1/2" gas ports.  I checked with the vendor, and they said adapters are provided with the condenser, so ok to use 3/8" linesets on gas side for the indoor units.
My question:  Is it really ok to use 3/8" linesets and adapters on the gas side in this setup?


texts: I am having my house rebuilt after a fire and, given that the basement floods occasionally (sometimes up to the top in a bad flood), i'm having the breaker box and hot water heater moved to the first floor.  they just put in the pluming and elctric lines and they made a small "room" within a room for the hot water heater.  On the outside wall of this hot water heater room is where the breaker panel is.  It's definitely less than 3 feet from the water heater but it's on the outside wall of the heater cubby so the back of the breaker panel will be very close to the heater (although most likely in a wall once they're done).  Is this up to code and, more importantly, is it safe?


texts: Is sump pump supposed to discharge back onto property or onto the street curb?

texts: I have a sump pump in my basement that discharges several times a day. Currently, it discharges water right next to my front steps. I read that sump pumps should discharge at least 10 ft away from the the home to avoid damage to the foundation. Mine is definitely too close to my house, and I am getting water in the basement, possibly from my own sump pump discharge. I called my town to get a permit to run my sump pump under the sidewalk in front of my house so it discharges out to the gutter. They told me this was illegal and that sump pump should discharge back to my own property. This doesn't make any sense to me, especially since almost all my neighbors and even the town library run their sump pumps under the sidewalk and discharging water to the gutter! I have seen other towns do the same setup. I want to go to back and tell them this. If However, if I tell them that my entire block has their pumps to the curb, what might happen? Might they come and fine everyone? Can I make a case for myself that I should be allowed?


texts:
When I was redoing the plumbing to my hot water heater I accidentally dropped a pen cap down the vent stack/flu.

Will this cause any problems? Like melting or catching on fire?

Its going to take a good bit of time to unhook the gas line and empty the tank to be able to tip it so I can remove the flue baffle, because of where it is currently located.

I'd rather not spend all that time if its a nonissue. My hunch is that it could be.

thanks for your help,

rookie


texts: Should I be concerned about this rust on the roof flashing

texts:
That top part is where I tried rustoleum rust converter after sanding it down a little.

Is there anything I can do. Should I even worry? That rustoleum converter was 2 years ago and I did just that one part. But life got in the way.


texts: What are the sturdiest types of joints for my lofted queen bed frame?

texts:
I'm building a lofted structure that includes a queen bed, storage stairs, and some storage space over my door. Here is a rudimentary mock-up I made in PS.

All the vertical support beams are 4x4s and the outside frame of the bed will be 2x6s. Like this: I will be replacing the wooden grooved pieces with metal L beams and adding a support rail down the middle of the frame. Also I'd turn the 2x4s onto the broadside.

The brown colored pieces in the mockup are for support. Using this design what would be the best way to secure the joints from shear force (add metal brackets, mortise and tendon the joints etc..)? I want this thing to be solid.


texts: Can I frame and insulate over EPS panels?

texts: My house came with 1/2 inch EPS board already attached to concrete in our basement. Instead of ripping down, I would like to frame over foam with 2x4 studs and fill with rockwool. Per code I need R13 minimum in zone 4A. Is keeping the EPS board on concrete a problem here?


texts: Can I remove prehung door from frame when installing?

texts:
I got nice solid core prehung interior door. It seems to have pretty weak frame, though and I see that hinge screws are protruding through it and the door is attached to the frame with nails on opposite side to prevent swinging. When I removed those nails, door weight immediately skewed the frame. So I put those nails back for time being but I will have to take them out before install and likely unscrew hinges at least partially.
In addition I have 1+" wider opening than this frame and I would like hinge side to go as close as possible to stud. This leaves me with 1" gap on the lock side and I plan to put 1x4 there.
All in all, it seems that a lot of things that need to happen to install it right, so I am wondering if it's advisable to just remove door from the frame and then install frame level, plumb and square where I need it and then reattach the door with 3" hinge screws. That would make my life lot easier but I've read in some places that it's difficult to install the frame right without a door. Not sure why.


texts: Wall A/C unit runs partially after turning off and eventually trips breaker. Is it a stuck relay?

texts:
I have an in-wall A/C unit that has been getting a workout in this 90 degree weather. It's a Kenmore Model No. 580.74124400. 115v 11.5A on a 15A dedicated circuit. I've now had two instances of the breaker tripping after the unit has been off.
The first time was after I had manually shut it off and it had continued to make noise. The interior fan was definitely off, and I believe the condenser fan was off as well (didn't go outside to check), but the compressor was definitely on. I could hear the tell-tale hum of the compressor, plus the hissing of refrigerant inside the unit.
I let this go on for about a minute before unplugging the unit from the wall and stepping outside to see if anything was visibly wrong with the unit. There's not a lot of visibility in the unit but I didn't see any damaged wires or tubing. I went back in and plugged the unit back in and it sat for several minutes before the compressor started up again all on its own. This time a couple minutes passed as I was trying to sort out what was going on and the breaker tripped.
I know that a breaker not instantly tripping is usually a sign of an overheat and not a short, so I was cautious to not leave the unit plugged in or running while we slept. Normally I set the built-in timer so it shuts off overnight. After several days of on/off without any issues I started to let it run on the timer overnight again.
Well after a couple nights of running it the breaker has tripped again. Nobody was awake to hear what the unit was doing, but based on the timing I have strong reason to believe it tripped after the unit had shut off from the timer.
I suppose the question is two-part. What is causing the compressor to run on its own when the unit is off? (It's not a physical power switch so I imagine the supply side of the relay is energized whenever the unit is plugged in) And what is it about the compressor running on its own that causes the trip? Is a compressor running without the fans causing an increased pressure or work load than if the whole unit was on?


texts: Wintertime and AC line frosted & dripping water in basement?

texts:
One line IS insulated in the exposed basement ceiling, so I am supposing this frosted & dripping line is the smaller return line? Have a dehumidifier running but the problem remains. What can I do to stop this, it's dripping all over the run of the pipe across 1/2 of the basement.
Thank You.

I looked all over the internet and this line isn't the one discussed.


texts: Fluorescent Light In Garage - Mounting Issues

texts: In our garage, I'm trying to mount a flourencent light fixture that is 4 foot long.  The problem is, I don't know how to mount it.  I'm assuming that I would want to drill the screws into the ceiling joists, however, that's posing to be an issue due to the ceiling joists running horizontal, which is the same way I'm trying to mount the light fixture.  Additionally, I can't exactly run it vertically as the only junction box in the garage is between the garage door opener and the attic door.  Is there another way to be able to mount this thing?


texts: How can I achieve a Quartz look using concrete for a bar top?

texts: I want to make my own concrete bar top but I would like it to have a bit of a sparkle like quartz has. Any suggestions?


texts: How did they get constant hot and neutral at far switch?

texts:
My sister had some renovations done and we don't know how they ran the wire (don't bury your junction boxes!!!). I have a wire tracer and am working through them, so we will get there, but I am not convinced they wired everything correctly.
The way the old wiring worked was there were two switches that controlled one light in the middle of the room. At the light, two outlets were branched off. This arrangement kept the outlets hot and allowed for constant power at the remote switch, which then allowed for another light to be run off the remote switch. I didn't think much of it when I helped her remove the switches, but when I saw the junction box it was unlike anything I'd seen.
Questions:

How did this wiring work?
Is/was this allowed?

My suspicion is the guys didn't re-wire it this way, so she will not have constant hot at the far end of the room.
This picture is the junction box before rewiring, at the light controlled by two switches. You can see the additional wires from the outlets branching off.


texts: My ceiling fan does not work. I have a ceiling fan light and the fan does not turn. It just hums but the light works.  What can be the problem?


texts: How do I force glue into a hard to reach hollow?

texts:
I have a group of wall tiles coming off the wall. They don't separate from each other, just come off together - when I knock with a finger I hear dull sound meaning there's already a hollow behind the tiles and I also see that the top row clearly comes off the wall.

Normally I would separate the tiles, clean them, reattach them to the wall and seal the seams, but that's more work than I'd like to do right now. I'd rather try to glue them onto the wall without separating. I picked holes in the seams and I plan to inject PVA glue behind the tiles and then press the whole group of tiles onto the wall (I'll put a wide board and insert a bar between the board and the opposite wall).

The question is how do I inject glue behind the tiles? The holes I picked are something like two millimeters in diameter. I thought of using a medical syringe, but I guess its needle has a too small hole and glue is not just flixible enough to be forced through such small holes. Any other ideas?


texts: Does the granite countertop on my deck require separate footings?

texts:
If I want to have a granite countertop as a table on top of my deck, do I need to support the 4 corners with actual footing, like 4x4 with concrete? Or it is possible to just bold the 4 legs on the side of the joists?

I have not weight my granite yet but according to this, it is 12.8 lbs sq ft

http://www.allstilesinc.com/granite-tiles-faqs/41-granite-pre-sales-questions/70-how-much-does-granite-weigh.html

Mine is like 3' x 9'

I am inspired by this, as I have no design yet.

I don't have the grill in my case but the countertop will be close to the railing. So for 4 corners of the 9  foot long countertop, are they supported by footing below? Or the legs are just standing on top of the joists underneath?
UPDATE 1

This is a free standing deck. Conveniently, two legs of the countertop if supported by the posts already. So the question is do I need the other 2 legs supported by posts? Or can they just sit on top of 2x8 joists that are on top of 4x8 beam?


texts:
After removing the pavers From the yard , there is about 100 mm of concrete sand ( very compact ) . What preparation should I do to lay Sir Walter Buffalo turf on top.

Should the sand be just turned with top soil and fertiliser or,
Should I remove the sand completely ( clay underneath ) add soil and fertiliser

Then start the turf process


texts: What material should I use for a custom, do-it-yourself desk for my home office?

texts:
I am currently remodeling my office, a converted formal dining room, and I am stuck on what material to use for the desktop.

Currently I have a 1" thick Cherry Veneer particle board that is 6' wide x 30" deep.

I want to increase the depth slightly (I like to rest my elbows on the desk while gaming) and am finding it hard to decide on a good material for a 36" depth that has an attractive finish. I would be happiest with a black veneer on the top (non-shine).

Any suggestions, or even places to purchase or order in Orange, CA would be awesome.

I am not shy in building one either, if anyone has any suggestions on the construction of a strong top.


texts: Why is water leaking behind my new rain gutter?

texts:
We had gutters installed by a contractor and we noticed water leaking from the back. The water appears to be rolling from the roof, over the roof apron, over the fascia, and then down the back of the gutter (see picture below). Most diagrams (see example below) I've seen online show that the gutter should have been installed under the roof apron, and the fascia should have been extended down to support the gutter. Is my understanding correct?

Lastly, they routed the downspout around some conduit on my house with 3 pieces of straight pieces (see picture below). Is there a better way to do this? This seems sloppy to me.


texts: My water filter faucet came unattached from base & sink. How can I fix it myself?

texts: My water filter at my sink recently became very loose! As you can see in the photo, it's unattached on two parts, the base and the sink. I'm wondering if I can make this a DIY fix rather than call a plumber or handy man to fix. Anyone have experience? Maybe a certain glue or sealant?


texts: How to I safely anchor a safety line to a chimney?

texts:
I am going to be installing an antenna at the top of my brick chimney and I'd like to be able to use a safety line with a fall arrestor.  The chimney visually looks OK. I'm trying to figure out the safest way to anchor to the top of the chimney.

So far I've considered two options:

A steel anchor with an expansion bolt into a brick on the chimney.  A downside I see to this is that all of the load would be placed on a single brick, and if that one brick came loose, I'd fall.  I could improve this by installing two anchor points, but if one brick pulled out I'm not sure I'd have much faith in the second one.

Steel Bolt http://www.petzl.com/files/imagecache/product_outdoor_slideshow_image/node_media/coeur-goujon_4.jpg
Wrapping webbing around the chimney and anchoring to the webbing.  This would be more difficult to install as I'd have to get around the entire chimney, and in the event that the entire chimney was not structurally sound, I risk the entire chimney coming down on top of me in the event I fell.

(source: canyoneeringusa.com)

Are there any other methods which I might have missed? If not, of these two which would be the safest?


texts: Electrical line has no juice after being shortened

texts:
I have a dedicated 15amp line running to my garbage disposal. The line did not run to an outlet, but was hard-wired straight to the disposal. I was installing an outlet under the sink so that I so I could plug in one of those little hot water tap water heaters. My plan was simply to cut the line and run the part coming from the panel to an outlet (GCFI) under the sink. I would then, inside the box, pigtail the wire and pick up the hardwire to the disposal as well.

When I completed this process, nothing worked. Not the outlet, not the disposal. The disposal had worked before. Now, when I test the line, the line from the panel is not live at all...nothing. I took the outlet off, and the line is still dead. The breaker doesn't seem to be loose, I've taken it out and put it back in. I actually even swapped it with another breaker I knew was working and it worked in the other spot on the panel while the working breaker wouldn't work in this spot.

I guess I'm just not sure how the line could go dead so easily. I've gone into the crawlspace and tested all the wires running through there that could be the right one, they are all live. This seems then like the disposal line somehow goes dead between the crawlspace and the actual spot it comes out under the sink. Is that possible, for a line to go dead at some point without shorting the whole thing?

Is there something I'm missing, or would I need to run a new line? Any help would be greatly appreciated?


texts: mitigate mold concerns from humidity in sauna in PNW

texts:
I'm building a sauna into a house in the Pacific Northwest.  One wall is external, three walls are internal, and there is an attic overtop where I can vent to the outside.

All walls and ceiling of the sauna will have insulation covered by aluminum vapor barrier with tape that ought to implement a complete seal.  This reflects moisture and heat back into the sauna.

I've heard that you want permeability between the outside of a structure and the inside so water vapor (not droplets) can pass through, and that humidity is always trying to get to the less humid side.

Based on these principles and the fact that there will generally be moisture on the inside of the room and on the outside of the house, what practical steps can I take to make sure humidity doesn't damage the walls?


texts: Are missed nails and gaps between members a concern in new construction framing?

texts: I’ll preface this by saying this is our first home build and my wife and I are very new to the process.  After having some issues with our builder we finally started framing last week.  After walking the jobsite yesterday, we noticed several things that had us concerned (missed nails in studs, window supports not resting against the cross brace and split studs).  Before we go back to our builder and ask for clarification from a biased source, I was hoping to get some advice, is this normal in this stage of the build?


texts: Upstairs and downstairs lights acting in unison(all on OR all off), how can I seperate them? (photos in link)

texts:
Link to photos here. To some frustration in our home, the current setup results in both lights acting in unison. If I want to turn on the ceiling fan/light in the foyer (1st floor), it defaults in also turning on the light on the second floor landing. This is problematic because the light on the second floor irritates my fiance whom is trying to sleep in the adjacent master bedroom.
There are two switches (both achieve the same result, all on or all off), so I'd like to seperate them. I would like to have the switch at the base of the stairs control ONLY the foyer and have the switch at the top of the stairs control ONLY the second floor light.
Extra Details, in case they matter:

switch at the base of the stairs is a three way in a 2 gang box, (with the other gang controlling the porch lights)
switch at the top of the stairs is a 3 way in a single gang box
house was built in 1890 and has a mixture of modern wiring and extremely old knob & tube

Any ideas?


texts: Help with replacing 3 way switch with a smart 3 way switch

texts:
I'm trying to replace existing 3 way switches with 3 way smart switches to control the lights of my light/fan combo. The current set up is a dimmer in 1 location and a toggle switch on the other side of the room. The switches I'm trying to install are Leviton DW1KD-1BZ and its matching remote, Leviton DD00R-DLZ. The short of the issue is the wiring configuration in each box is baffling and I'm not sure how to make this work with the new switches. The current set up is functioning fine.

This is what the existing, "dumb" dimmer switch currently looks like. It's connected to a black, red, white, and copper wire.

And this is what the toggle switch looks like. It is the middle of the 3 switches. It has 2 reds, 1 of which comes from the bundle of wires connected to the fan switch that is the far left of the 3 switches. The 2 reds are capped off with a yellow wire which is then connected to the switch along with a black and a copper.

Here is the setup at the light/fan fixture. The pictures are taken from the opposite sides in an attempt to show everything. What is inside is: 2 whites capped, 2 greens and 1 copper capped, 2 blacks capped, 1 red and 1 blue capped.

Best view of the inside of the light/fan fixture box I can get, from 2 different angles. There's a romex with black, red, white, copper. There are 2 green wires grounded to the fan mount. There are 1 blue, 1 black and 1 white wires traveling up from the fan itself.

2 additional photos of the light/fan fixture with wires pulled out of box.

Any ideas on how to get the smart switches working or is it not possible?


texts: I'm installing a circuit for two 12-amp loads that will plug into separate 15-amp outlets. These will be the only loads on a circuit with a 30 amp breaker. If the first outlet is a 15 amp GFCI and the second outlet is wired in line downstream with the GFCI and the two devices operate simultaneously, will this put too much load on the GFCI?


texts: Each room has its own thermostat and heater. The bathroom hasn't stopped but isn't working correctly. When I touch the ceiling I can feel heat but the room doesn't get warm. I'm trying to fix this issue myself and cheaply as possible. Any answers/ideas/ things to try would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


texts: No Go with Faucet Puller to Remove Handles

texts: Trying to replace double sink bathroom faucets from the 1980s and after removing setscrews tried to pull of handles after oiling them and using a Husky faucet puller.  No luck with the Husky and no luck unscrewing the threaded pipe that attaches to the lower silver bell of the handle (it moves up and down the threads but not past the faucet handle). Am I missing something?


texts:
So I have a relatively new dishwasher that just completely stopped working the other day. It's still under warranty but before going though all the hassle I want to check if there is nothing simple it could be.

I have checked all the basics such as fuses in the plug and if the socket actually works with other appliances. I have not yet opened it up but have no problem with doing so if there are any good ideas as to what could be the problem.

I remember the night before it stopped showing any signs of life it made some strange beeps just after finishing a cycle.

So far the net has not provided any clues.

its a LG, not sure on the exact model and seems like each store sells the same thing with different model numbers anyhow.

It has the text 'Inverter DirectDrive' and 'TrueSteam' on the front


texts: can I put a single mixer tap in a basin that has 3 holes?

texts:
Can I put a single mixer tap in a basin that has 3 holes? I've just bought a basin that has 3 holes. Can I put a single mixer in the centre one and plug the other 2 holes? I notice that the centre hole is smaller than the outer two.
Thanks!


texts: How can I attach the sill plate to the block formation (contractor did not do it)

texts:
When we purchased this home we had some renovations done before we moved in, one included framing in an existing covered porch on 2 sides. The builder came highly recommended and routinely built $500k+ homes and received numerous awards for homes in the area. He was originally going to build our home from scratch but issues with the land eventually led us to find a great home built in 2000. The builder seemed to be the most knowledgeable about what we wanted to do, was not the cheapest of the quotes we received, (we met some characters), and was professional in all our dealings.
When construction started they went under the deck, dug a trench and had a footer poured, then a block mason added a cinder block support wall on the 2 outside walls, so I felt pretty comfortable in the way they were progressing.
Fast forward 5 years, I'm in the process of becoming a home inspector and I started noticing things. We had him open up several interior walls, beams were added but the support columns were not tied into the beam below causing the floor to bounce. This made me want to take a close look at the addition, today I went under and looked around, as far as I can tell there are no bolts holding down the sill plate, the center support beam not touching the 2 support columns, and only a few of the floor joists are nailed to it, and the blocks were not back filled. I am planning to shim and add clamps to the center support beam.
Question: How can I attach the exterior wall to the foundation?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


texts: What tool should I use to remove a screw from cramped spaces?

texts:
I don't tackle many DIY projects.  But when I do, the most frustrating thing is knowing that I'm doing things inefficiently.  I watch a YouTube video where the guy says it should take 5 minutes to disassemble.  2 hours later, I'm using my fingers to try and unscrew a bolt because I don't know how he did it in 5 minutes.

I'm there now.  I don't know what to Google to help me either.

I'm working on my garage door opener and I need to remove a 5/16 screw from inside of the opener.  I have no idea what tool to use.  I'd normally use a socket wrench for this but it won't fit in such a small opening.  I'm trying to take off the bolt that is circled in the picture below.

Any ideas?  I know this is probably a simple question but it's driving me nuts.


texts: How to prevent two doors from opening into each other?

texts:
I have pantry cabinet door that abuts the door to a half-bath. They meet at a 90° angle and are hinged at the same side:

Right now, I have a hinge pin doorstop on the half bath door.  Temporarily I have it taped to the half bath door so it rotates along with the door.  If the half bath door opens fully, then the hinge pin doorstop contacts the wall between the hinges of the two doors.  If the pantry door opens when the half bath door is closed, the hinge pin doorstop catches the pantry door before the two doors hit.

Part of the reason why I needed to tape the hinge pin doorstop to the half bath door was because its pads are at 90° to each other.  If there existed a hinge pin doorstop with the pads at 180° from each other (so it looks like a "T", with the base of the T attaching to the hinge and a pad at either end of the top of the T), I think that would solve my problem.

Does such a doorstop exist?  Is there a better way?

Edit:

Here is a picture of the doors:

Here is a closeup when the bathroom door is open, with the hinge pin doorstop hitting the wall:

And a closeup when the pantry door is opened:

With this current setup, the pantry door can open at most about 45°, which is sufficient, and the bathroom door can open to a full 90°.  Under no circumstances can the two doors touch.


texts: Grounding Upgrades While Replacing/Adding Panels

texts:
I've previously mentioned in other questions my plans to upgrade two old and insufficient subpanels which serve my garage and its upstairs apartment. Note that the garage is attached to the house; it was an addition (in the mid '60s) but it is not a separate structure. The two panels are fed by a common feeder which is 3 x #4 copper in 1" EMT; the apartment panel is downstream of the garage panel and fed via a breaker in it. There is not a separate ground wire in the feeder although the EMT provides some ground continuity. In addition, since my service entrance panel is more than maxed out (the previous homeowner double-wired some circuits as the neutral bar was filled up, I'm planning to install a smaller sub-panel at the back of the house in an office/bath area I'm renovating and offload some circuits from the main panel. (See photo attached). The feed I'm planning for this new subpanel is 3 x #4 plus a #6 ground in 1" PVC, but I haven't cut any holes or bought any materials except for the panels themselves so far so I'm able to modify my plans if desirable.
I'm asking for recommendations for wiring and upgrading the grounds at all four of these panels. Currently the service entrance panel has a single ground rod driven I-don't-have-any-clue how long ago, and it looks badly corroded. At the back of the house, about 12 feet from where I'm putting in the new subpanel, there's a 1/2" ground rod which I drove myself a few years back when I found that an outlet where I wanted to place a computer did not have a functioning ground. The corner of the garage where the two old subpanels are has no ground and has a concrete walkway all around, but that's not a showstopper as I have a hammer drill. The two subpanels are within three feet of each other, so they ought to be able to share a ground connection. I'm not planning to upgrade the feeder in 1" EMT at this time as my eventual plan is to have a new, larger service entrance installed behind the home.
As the old saying goes, "I'd rather do it right than do it over." I definitely want a new ground rod for the garage panels, and I'm thinking that this is an opportune time to drive one or two new ground rods for the existing service entrance panel to replace the one which is corroded. For the new panel at the back of the house I could either drive a new ground rod, run wire about 20 feet around the perimeter of the room to the 1/2" rod I drove a few years back, or simply ground it back to the existing service entrance with the ground wire in conduit.
Since some of you will be curious, here are the projected loads for the various panels:
Garage Panel: Lighting (fluorescent, 8 single-tube fixtures), convenience outlets for power tools. Planning to add a 50A circuit for a welding machine (infrequent use) and to offload the laundry equipment (gas dryer [with provisions for electric], washing machine) onto this panel once it's changed out. Once service entrance is upgraded may add some more heavy-duty power tools on this panel, possibly a feed to a future swimming pool.
Apartment Panel: Small appliance & lighting circuits (gas range); 220V window AC/heat pump (20A circuit, downrated from original 30A as new A/C was more efficient). Eventually want to upgrade appliances to modern standards (dishwasher, disposal, installed microwave, etc.) but this can wait until I upgrade the service entrance.
Office Panel: Will be rewiring the back corner of the house which is the last vestige of fabric-covered ungrounded Romex which I'm aware of. Two circuits for computers and lighting, two circuits for a network closet and central sound system, offload HVAC (gas furnace, outdoor compressor, with provisions for eventual installation of ground-source heat pump and electronic air cleaner). Bathroom circuit. AFCI/GFCI protection as appropriate.


texts: We recently had wood-look tiles placed in our living room.  There were already some retro-looking tile in front of the fireplace that we liked and complimented the wood-look tile that was going in.  Is there something that can be placed to join the two different tiles, kind of like a bullnose, but needs to be narrow and has a finished edge?  There is a slight height difference between the 2 tiles (<1/4").


texts: In old houses is it normal to use multi wire wiring bundles out of the breaker box?

texts:
I have an old house, ca 1928.
A lot of the wiring is old. A lot has been replaced over the years.
I'm not an electrician but I am very comfortable doing wiring. But I don't have the experience of an electrician to be able to answer what's up with this particular wiring.
Into my breaker box, one of the sets of wires is a large, multi-wire, metal-sheathed cable.
This cable has 3 Red, 3 Black, and 3 White wires.
This is 14 gauge wire.
2 of the Red are not in use -- they are each coiled and capped with wire nut.
The remaining "hot" wires -- three Black and one Red -- are set into 15 Amp breakers.
The whites all go to the common return.
Is this typical? Using a huge, multi-wire cable, to feed the rest of the house?
I'm not sure why there aren't 4 white returns. Or, rather, an equal number of hot wires and return wires. Is that also normal? (It's possible I mis-counted, though, the wires are a mess)
Should I treat this bundle any differently than any other wiring?


texts: Can television cables be run through a downspout?

texts:
Is it against code (Houston, Texas; Harris County) to drop cable wires down a downspout? This is a condo complex, bottom floor unit. The cable company dropped their cable down the downspout of the gutter system.
At the end of the downspout, there is an extension hose that is supposed to lead the water down the hose to the pavement to the drainage system. Since the cable was dropped into the downspout and the cable is supposed to be buried in the ground, a cutout was made to the extension hose that connects to the downspout so the cable can be laid into the ground.
This has caused water to gush out of that connecting point, pool, and seep into the condo unit - wet carpet now every time it rains heavily. The management company insists that the landscapers change the hose and problem solved, but I feel this is a waste of time and money bc it would only repeat. They've been evasive and said they called the cable company but will have to send contractors out but no clue when that will happen.
IMO the cable company FIRST needs to get that cable out and encase the cable separately from the downspout (like they did in another part of the building) and then landscapers can change to an uncompromised extension hose. I'd like some "meat" to back this up as this doesn't seem logical to me to drop anything down the downspout...are there any building codes that state that nothing should be dropped into the downspouts or anything that will hinder or not maxmize the flow of water leading to the drain. I've tried to find on web but haven't found anything firm.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.


texts:
I'm in the market for a new kitchen faucet. I want one that is well made. Some people claim the faucet models sold by plumbing supply stores are of better quality, made with better material, and are therefore more expensive than faucets purchased elsewhere. Other people claim this is non-sense.
The Delta website advertises the MSRP of its 19810-SS-DST as $405. But the Delta website also points to online resellers who offer the item at $195 or $243. That's very odd.
Why is there so much disagreement on this subject? What is the true story?


texts: How does one put a horizontal drain (ABS. 1 1/2") pipe in a wall that is already in place?

texts:
With studs at 16" apart it is impossible to squeeze in one long segment from one end of the wall to the other (in my case a drain or a dry vent)
In the below picture I am talking about the horizontal green segments
How do i install the drain and vent runs in this wall?


texts: I have a water heating system in my kitchen sink (picture below) that is about 4 years old.  All of a sudden the faucet is dripping water.  I am trying to figure out how to fix it. I tried cleaning the levers but that did not help since I was unable to reach deep inside.  How can I disassemble the levers so I can clean it very well and see if the dropping stops.  Any pointers or videos would be appreciated


texts: Furnace: are flames in between the tubes bad?

texts:
In a Carrier Weathermaker 8000 gas furnace, is it normal for some of the flames to be coming out of the spacers in between the tubes? It seems like they shouldn't be there, since they aren't going through the holes into the box with the blower.

(Please pardon any inaccuracy in my terminology.)


texts: I've once seen it on TV: in industrial wire production they use a set of castors that bends the wire back and forth, up and down – always a bit less, until its straight. Is there something similar for home use?


texts: Horizontal lines on ceiling, roof leaking

texts:
My bedroom's ceiling has been leaking (more like dripping) when it's raining or snow melting, and I highly doubt that the old TV satellite dish caused the roof leaking. (Pic 1)
What troubles me more  is that I noticed there is another spot with thin horizontal lines on the ceiling and it’s right above where I usually sit and work. (Pic 2)
I have an inclined roof and the leaking spot  is located slightly higher than pic 2's spot.
Can anyone tell me what might be the cause of this kind of line?
the dark spot is caused by my phone's camera


texts: Remove head from a quarter turn tap with no screw

texts:
I'm trying to install a tap (see photograph), but the tap head is getting in the way due to restricted space. I'd like to try and remove the head so that I can install the body and then reinstall the head later.
However I am unable to figure out how to remove the head. There are no grub screws at all.
Any thoughts?

Product page


texts:
I am a new home owner. I recently had water damage to my house and needed to have the drywall in my ceilings stripped and replaced (first floor and basement). My contractor has completed the work but I found some issues. I am not sure if these are serious or not, or if I am just being picky. I was wondering if I could get some advice.

First, where the contractor butted the new drywall ceiling against the original section, that was not damaged, there is a change in gradient and the drywall is not level. This is more apparent along the wall/ceiling joint and you can see that it is not a straight line.
Along the wall, where the ceiling drywall joins the wall, there are large gaps. They have already finished mudding and painting, so I think they intend to just cover these large gaps with molding. Should these gaps be taped and mudded as well?
I have recessed lighting. Some of the holes that were cut out were cut too large. When I placed the lights, which have about a 1/4 flange, over the cut out hole, I can see the flange will not cover the entire hole. As I mentioned, the ceiling has already been taped, mudded, and painted, so I don't expect they will be doing any more work. I am not sure how they expect to fix this?

I would ask the contractor, but they've been difficult to get in contact with and have not been showing up the past few days. I get the feeling I will be told it's all normal, which is why I wanted to check here first.

Thanks

Edit - Photos

Here are some photos.  The first two are what it looks like all around the wall in my kitchen, with the gaps.

This is what the lights look like:

And this is the basement.  The first photo you can see a bend in the ceiling.  The next photo I use a level to demonstrate the slope.


texts:
I recently re-tiled my bathroom floor and removed the toilet to do so. I noticed that the builders had used grout around the base of the toilet when I was removing it and demoing the tile. Should I use grout or caulk around the base of the toilet? I've read some things that would suggest caulk is a better option.

The toilet is installed with the appropriate wax ring and is working fine. I do notice the slightest rocking if I push on the toilet. I'm guessing this is due to the floor not being completely level. The flange bolts are as tight as I'm willing to go with them w/o risk of cracking the porcelain.

Will the grout/caulk help to completely stabilize the toilet as well?


texts: Can I turn a 4 X 4 deck post, eight feet high, into a 6 x 6 post by laminating a 2 X 6 and 2 X 4 to it?

texts:
My mother-in-law has a deck 8 feet off the ground that is is built with 4 X 4's for support, with only one notched 2 X 6 rim joist on the outerside of the deck which also supports the 2 X 6 joists that are spaced at 24 inch centres. The deck is at least 24 feet long by 8 feet wide.

There are no deflections. It's just old and had some joist wood rot along with top decking rot. I've replaced the three joists that had wood rot. The posts were set on patio blocks about 6 inches max into the ground and surrounded by crushed limestone and interlocking brick. Three of the six posts have wood rot below ground level.

The deck was built 25 years ago and does not meet current Ontario building code which calls for all decks to be built with 6 X 6 posts with 2 X 8 joists, and at least two, 2 X 8 rim joists joined together.  Since I'm not building a new deck, you're not required to meet the newer Ontario building code, but I want to at least make sure that it is secure. It seems the 4 X 4's stood up okay for the past 25 years without requiring 6 X 6's.

I could remove one post at a time with temporary side supports, remove the patio stone and dig down four feet as required by code, insert a sono tube, fill with cement and then attach a saddle with a new 4 X 4 or 6 X 6 post. The current floor of the deck is covered with 2 X 6's. Quite a few need replacing. I was going to remove these.

I wanted to enhance the structural integrity of the deck by turning the 4 X 4's into 6 X 6's by adding a 2 X 6, vertically screwed onto one side of the 4 X 4, and then a 2 X 4 vertically screwed into the side that overlaps the 4 X 4. This would then make the post a 6 X 6. Then, for added rim joist support, I was going to lag bolt a second rim joist to the one that is already there. This rim joist would sit on top of the 2 X 6 that I would add to the 4 X 4. I was also going to add an additional 2 X 6 joist between all of the current joists thereby moving from 24 inch centres to 12 inch centres.

Please let me know whether this is a futile effort to enhance the structural integrity of the deck, or would I be better to spend her money and replace the current 4 X 4's with 6 X 6's, still adding a second rim joist attached and notched into the 6 X 6 post? I've already added joist hangers and lag bolted the deck to the 2 X 6 header that is attached to the house. Originally, this deck was built only with 4 inch nails.


texts:
I have a pretty bad ant infestation.  I think the little critters are Argentine ants.  I've used a couple of bottles of Terro (I usually put down about a quarter bottle at a time).  It does slow them down, but they come right back not after not too long.

I have been thinking about using an aerosol insecticide.  The stuff I have has imiprothrin and cypermethrin as active ingredients.  The are supposed to be good enough that I can just spray on their trails, and they'll die if they walk over the sprayed areas.

The problem is the location of the trail.  They're coming out from a space between the baseboard heater and the wall's outer finish.

Can I spray the baseboard heater?  I'm not worried about fires, but I'd really hate for the insecticide to start outgassing when the heaters get turned on this winter.


texts: can I mount the sink 50 cm away from the wall drain hole

texts: let s say I have 250 cm available for my kitchen and the wall drain hole is at 125 cm from the wall, half way. Can i mount the sink away from the wall drain hole say at 70 cm from the wall and have a drain pipe going from the location of the sink to the wall connection? or is it too far for correct draining of my sink?


texts: Lean Ikea Krabb mirror against the wall (for decoration), need something to prevent them from slipping

texts:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/298y83/help_lean_ikea_krabb_mirror_against_the_wall_need/?utm_source=amp&utm_medium=&utm_content=post_title

There's similar questions online that were asked.

Is there a way to lean a mirror/board against the wall and ensure that it doesn't slip without hammering a second piece of board on to a wall top of it? I've tried learning this mirror on a piano and for some reason that works, but I need a solution for a home without a piano. I can't afford making holes in my wall. This is also unwieldy because that means my mirror is fixed and I have to re-hammer in a board every time I move the mirror.

I don't trust grips on the bottom of the mirror to preventing it from slipping if I touch it. I don't trust corrugated rubber matts or changing the carpet.


texts: Should I add a plywood subfloor below my damaged hardwood floors when I reinstall?

texts:
We have lifted our original floorboards in our property, we now plan on insulating between the joists and relaying the original boards.

Unfortunately, the floorboards were old and brittle and consequentially many boards have lost small slivers of wood from either the tongue or the groove on the underside of the board.

My idea to salvage as many of the original boards as possible is to lay a thin layer of plywood over the original joists to better support the now weakened original boards. Areas where the tongue or groove of the board are damaged that could potentially split benefit from the additional support of the plywood board.

Can anyone comment on the potential merits or pitfalls of this idea?


texts: How should I interpret the results of a lead paint test?

texts:
I just used the 3M lead test on this wall and I’m finding it difficult to interpret?  There is this wallboard with recent paint on it, and underneath seems like a layer of wallpaper and it seems rust colored in places.  With the rust colored test liquid it’s getting confusing.  Can anyone help?  Do we have lead?  House built in 1948, renovated before we bought it in 2013.

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzEuU.jpg)


texts: So we have a direct tv satellite that we don’t use anymore. They left a dc pass cable splitter hooked up. Can we use that to hook up an outdoor antenna? Will we get shocked or something? Clearly we don’t know what we’re doing. I wasn’t sure if I should just get a regular splitter or could use the one that’s already hooked up to our cables.


texts: How to poke coaxial cables out of a wall nicely?

texts:
I have coaxial cables that are poking out of walls in numerous places all over the house. I don't use them and I don't know why there's so many coming out of each hole. These were left by the previous owner. They look ugly just sitting on the ground. This is illustrated on the right side of the following photo. How do I make it look nicer like the faceplated contraption on the left?

How would I handle the 3 wires if I don't see anyone selling coxial faceplates with 3 holes?
The niceley faceplated contraption on the left has holes, whereas the wires on the right have pointy metal pointing out. Is it okay to convert the pointy into the holely ones? I don't understand when you would use one over the other.
What is the point of having 5 coaxial connections in one corner of the house? Is anyone going to put 3 TVs and 2 internet modems in one corner??? If there's no purpose, should I just cut off the wires and seal the wall?


texts: Dangerous to use water heater which activates circuit breaker?

texts: I have diagnosed an error in my water heater. A control board is defunct and needs replacement. Unfortunately it is winter now and the replacement delivery will take a week or longer. The water heater still functions properly but trips the circuit breaker of one phase occasionally. Is it still safe to use until the replacement arrives?


texts: attaching a coupling to copper pipe very close to wood

texts:
I have a copper pipe connected to a pex pipe by a leaking sharkbite fitting. I'd like to replace the sharkbite fitting with something more permanent. However I'm not sure if it's safe to use a soldered fitting since the copper pipe only extends two or three inches from the piece of wood it runs through.

Is there a way to safely solder this or are there any other permanent copper fittings which don't require heat to attach?


texts: There is black gunk coming from toilet hole that clean water comes from sometimes its chips & spots that just look like bacteria or growth. Any ideas?


texts: Are there any built in cabinet 'kits' available?

texts:
I am wanting to do cabinets between a wall and a fireplace. This would separate our living room from our dining room, so I want to build media cabinets (A/V equipment, DVD shelves, and a full ceiling to floor 'closet' to store big equipment like Rock Band guitars. On the opposite side, the dining room, I want to have a counter for serving, and then upper cabinets have glass fronts for display (china, etc..). I think that maybe this is beyond my skill, so I was wondering if there were any kits out there that would easily let you change dimensions, change layouts, etc..

Here is a picture of the space I want to occupy. I am standing in my living room looking into the dining room:

Also, what do I do with the angled ceiling, what kind of cabinetry or filler do I put there? Should I build a wall first (I hate the thought of loosing 4-5" of depth. Any thoughts?


texts: Lawn Sprinkler's water pressure is low in one zone

texts:
All my sprinklers worked about a month ago.  However, now one of my six zones are not producing enough pressure; all the other zones work just fine.  I checked the voltage for this problematic zone and it was around 25 VAC. The resistance is around 60 Ohms. So, it seems that the solenoid is just fine (please correct me if I am wrong).
Question:

Am I correct in my hunch/diagnostic that it is the zone-valve and
not the solenoid or sprinkler head that are the problem?
What is a good way (diagnostic) to find out which zone-valve is busted?
What should be my next steps?

I want to make sure that I am reasonable accurate since the zone-valves have not been touched in the past 20+ years and hence have a lot of dirt/mud on them; besides, they are each in 10-inch diameter plastic canisters under the ground (making access rather difficult).
Thanks.


texts: Its a pull out kitchen faucet with a swirly e logo.  I need to replace the hose.


texts:
I'm trying to connect my new electric shower unit up. Unfortunately both the connections have threaded connections. I bought a straighter coupler but this seems to be the opposite of what I want.

This is the existing elbow joint.

This is my failed attempt to bridge them with a straight coupler. Posted to give an idea of what I'm trying to achieve.

Sorry, this is probably the stupidest question ever. I'm new to plumbing.


texts:
I've seen lots of posts that speak of a single toilet whining, but one day, a few weeks ago, all of our toilets on the middle and upper floor (3 toilets) started whining when the tank is refilling.

If I turn on the cold water faucet next to the toilet (or the shower) the whining immediately stops!

So I thought this may be a water pressure issue. .. but our pressure doesn't seem to be very high. Anyone have any ideas?


texts: What is this wire clamped between my cold and hot water pipes?

texts: What is this black "wire" type thing clamped between my cold and hot water pipe? What is its purpose?


texts:
We purchased a set of Z-Wave three way light switches a while back, finally getting around to installing them.
However, our wiring does not match the instructions. Instructions call for power to the main switch, then auxiliary, and finally the light. Our wiring is power directly to the light, and then splitting in two directions to each switch.
Is there any way to wire these switches up with this setup? I really do not want to rip apart my walls and ceiling and rewire everything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463332768&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=GE+Z-Wave+Wireless+Lighting+Control+Three-Way+Dimmer+Kit&dpPl=1&dpID=31CP9kPMCIL&ref=plSrch


texts: I am doing a bathroom remodel down to the studs. The wall behind the sink will be tiled with stacked splitface marble. My questiom: what goes on the wall before the tile?  do I drywall, then add the hardiebacker on top, or just attach hardiebacker? I ask because then I have to know exactly where the drywall would end and hardiebacker would start, which is dependent on cabinets and counter top etc. Or, I just drywall everything and add hardiebacker once exact perimeter of tile is known. Or is hardiebacker even needed. Could tile go on drywall?


texts: How can I wire 7 outdoor posts correctly?

texts:
I've seen a few posts on how to wire a single post/column for lighting outdoor but I can't find anything that relates to multiple posts/columns.

I have 7 posts/columns outdoor and I'd like to add lighting at the top of each post. These posts/columns will be used with a fence (in case you are trying to visualize this).

So far this is what I understand I need to do in a nutshell:

Dig a trench of 18" and bury wiring with PVC piping
Use existing outdoor GFCI and extend your wiring from that outlet as long as you are not overloading the circuit
Use a wiring hub that runs power from the outlet being used to the main hub input and then have separate outs from the same hub running to each lamp that will go to each post/column

Here is where I need some guidance:

What is a good hub to use outdoor? When searching online, I only find extension cords hubs. This isn't what I need. Does it have a different/formal name?
My run from the outlet at the house to the hub by the posts/columns would be about 60 feet. If I position the hub midpoint of all posts/columns, I have about 40 feet each way (left or right) to the furthest point to supply cable to each lamp on each post/column. Do I need some sort of amplifier so that I don't experience voltage drop? If so, which one and how do I introduce this?
I've read that looping or daisy chaining just makes it more complex trying to maintain adequate voltage (evenly) on all post so a hub is recommended. Is this correct?

I have a basic understanding of electrical and wiring. I've done some smaller projects at home so tackling this isn't a concern. I'd just like to know what are the right components I need to ensure this is done correctly


texts: Install manual generator transfer switch to two 200A feeders

texts:
I am installing a 400A meter main with a 200A feeder to the existing interior house panel and 200A to detached garage. Similar to this install:

Source: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/191178/125700
The house feeder will be on the distribution side with pass-through lugs. I plan to have the generator breaker installed in the first distribution position. This will cover all important circuits in the house.
My questions:

Is there a manual interlock kit for this panel (Eaton CG1212P400BS)?
Will the 30A generator breaker be acceptable in series with the 200A interior house panel?
Is there a different configuration that would allow the generator to power both feeders?

Project Phases

Upgrade to 400a service (underground), replace house feeder
(200A, underground) and upgrade garage feeder (200A, underground)
Move well circuit (30A) to house panel and well controller to basement
Allow for portable generator hook-up to house (via main panel, house panel or aux panel)
(future) Allow for portable generator hook-up to garage (via main panel, aux panel)
(future) Garage to shop feeder (sizing tbd)
(future) Garage to large greenhouses feeder (sizing tbd)
(future) House or garage mounted solar, storage in garage (system config tbd)

Additional Info (culled from comments)

Jurisdiction - PUD, South Central Washington State
Code - 2020 NEC
Verified with PUD engineer bypass is not required. The rule reads like bypass is required but really means that if bypass is present must be test block or manual circuit closing, not lever bypass.
House panels considered

Eaton CG1212P400BS - 2 x 200A mains (conventional choice in the area)
Eaton HP816P400BS - 2 x 200A mains
Siemens MC2442B1400SD - 1 x 400A main (no bypass, meets 2020 NEC 230.71, not in stock anywhere)
Siemens MC2442B1400SDS - 1 x 400A mian (with bypass, not needed according to PUD)

House grounded to Ufer electrode located below house panel (20ft. via raceway from new meter main panel location)
Well is 50 ft. from new meter main panel location, metal casing
Garage grounding to be all new
Portable generator not yet purchased, floating neutral seems to be required
Critical generator loads will be 30A well, 30A septic, 20A fridge, 20A freezer, 20A networking, 2x15A lights
Future critical garage loads will be 2x20A circuits
New main meter base to be installed on house with underground feeder through existing sweep to house panel and new run to garage panel

January Update
I went with the Eaton HP402442 house panel. A very nice piece of equipment. Inspector signed off on the rough-in. He confirmed they are still approving the dual feeder meter panels until July to give manufacturers time to comply. Still worth going with the 400a disconnect with distribution for the flexibility.  He suggested ground rods instead of connecting back to the Ufer. I think I’ll just do that to avoid having the run on the exterior of the house. I’m putting the generator panels on hold for now though the conduit is in. The house generator panel will be in the basement to simplify things a bit. Thanks for all the solid advice, I’m really happy with how it’s coming together.


texts:
The garage door manual isn't clear about exactly how to check the chain tension.  The tension differs if the manual "override" is engaged or not.  When it's in "manual mode" (manually open/close the door), the chain sags too much when the door is open, but it's fine when the door is closed.  However, if the door is connected to the motor (the motor opens/closes the door), the chain sags too much if it's open or closed (sags a lot more when the door is closed).  This seems to match the manual better (it mentions the chain will sag a bit when the door is closed), so I think tension needs to be checked with the motor engaged, but I'm not sure.  I don't want to over tighten the chain.

So, do you check tension in "manual mode" or not?  If in "manual mode", should the door be open or closed?

The opener is a Sears Craftsman, which appears to be the same one by Chamberlain (the manual looks identical).  The website that had the Chamberlain manual was Liftmaster.com.

Thanks,

Jim


texts: Linked pair of sconces won't work without one regular bulb (can't put an LED in both)

texts: I have a problem with a pair of wall sconces that both operate from the same dimmer switch.  They both work fine with an incandescent in each.  When I put an LED in either, then neither work.  If I put an incandescent in one and an LED in the other, then they both work again.  It doesn't matter which has which, as long as it is one of each.  The LED bulbs are dimmable.  Is there a fix for this?  I would like LED in both.  Thanks.


texts:
My daughters' rooms were re-done last fall - we tore out the closets, installed built-ins, replaced hollow doors with solid ones, did a bit of re-wiring for additional lights . . . During the spring we noticed that the rooms are now a lot hotter than the rest of the house.  And one room more than the other - by summer, this room was a good 10 degrees hotter than the rest of the house.

The guy who did the work says that the reason their rooms are now hotter is because they have more lights (they already had one overhead light, part of a fan - we added another light over their beds, and a vanity light, plus a lighted extending make-up mirror, all standard issue), and also because of the new solid doors.   In an attempt to compensate, I have turned out every light in the rooms and opened their doors wide, but it doesn't seem to help much.  And once the door closes which it inevitably does, it's definitely much hotter again.  We thought maybe some insulation in the attic got rolled back when the new overhead lights were installed, but everything seems to be in place.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.  Thank you for the help.


texts: If I do not have any fuel burning devices, do I need a carbon monoxide detector?

texts: Is there any reason that a home without any fuel burning devices would need a carbon-monoxide detector?


texts: How can I improve the drainage rate from a new walk-in shower?

texts:
I've fitted a standalone shower in my bathroom. I had a bath with a shower over it previously, and we wanted a walk in.

The waste outlet to the sewer is in the same place, and I've connected it up to the shower waste trap. The problem is, there is very little (if any) slope from the shower to the sewer.

The outlet from the shower trap is almost the same height off the floor as the sewer inlet, giving me no chance of sloping it. I did think about raising the shower bed up, but we already put it on struts to accommodate the shower waste. Any higher and the trim wouldn't fit.

Anyway, I was wondering if there is anything I can do. Are there any products out there that would suck the water from the shower and spit it out the other end? Almost like the shower pump I have, gravity fed.

It does eventually drain, just slowly.


texts: Any ideas for repairing water damage on outside corner with a rusty corner bead?

texts:
How would you approach repairing this kind of water damage, pictured, without reinstalling the stone tile?  I think I've fixed the source of the water damage above.

I was thinking that I would scrape/chisel out the old drywall compound, remove a section of the rusty outside corner bead, apply regular joint compound, add a new section of corner bead, then rebuild the corner with regular joint compound, sand, more joint compound, sand, prime, and paint.  When I'm done, I'm sure it will look terrible.  Any tips to make this go easier and better?


texts: Heat Pump doesn't work in AC mode, but heat mode is fine

texts:
I have a heat pump for my house's heating and cooling.  We had our first hot day of the year last week, so I switched it to cool mode (heretofore it had always been in heat mode).  When in cool mode, however, i have no air flow at my vents.  The air handler is on (there's sound), but it's not as loud as it usually is.  I think the fan isn't running.  I opened the chamber where the air filter goes, and I didn't feel any airflow.  Furthermore I see ice crystals forming on the refrigerant lines.  In heat mode, everything works fine (the fan comes on, and there's plenty of airflow).

Is this a problem that I can diagnose/fix myself, or should I call an HVAC company to look at it?  It's an old system I'm planning on replacing in the next year or so, so I'm hoping to not put a lot of money into fixing it if possible.


texts: What size subpanel and wire do I need for a swimming pool?

texts:
I need to install a 100A subpanel for an in ground swimming pool.  The main panel is in the garage and subpanel will be mounted on exterior of house about 30’ away.  The subpanel will be more than than 5’ from pool.

Will a 6 space 100A MLO 3R load center work being fed by 2P100A breaker in main panel? Pool builder states he only needs 4 spaces.

Assuming three runs of #4, with #6 ground run in 1-1/4” SCH 80?


texts: Do I need a pump to move rainwater from a tank to point-of-use?

texts:
We are thinking of converting our shop into an apartment. There is already a water supply but there are 2 homes on it already.  We are considering using a holding tank to catch rainwater for  dishes, bathes and clothes washing.  We have decided on  1500 gallon tank and know how we are hooking it up.

Do we need a pump to get the water inside(the tank will be elevated) and if so where does it need to be, inside or out and what kind of pump is recommended?

Thank you


texts: Why does cold water comes out faster when the hot water is turned off?

texts: I had my bathroom refurbished a while ago.  Ever since, when I have my kitchen taps (downstairs) both hot and cold on fully, then turn off the hot tap, cold comes out much faster.  Any clues as to why?  I mentioned this to the plumber who did the job, who said he didn't know why and left it at that.  Is there anything I can do to resolve this problem?  I also don't think the pressure is as good in my bath taps as it used to be.  I did have a powerful shower installed.


texts:
Looking for an IC Rated, pivoting recessed (pocket) light for shower.

Does anyone know if such a thing exists?  I've been scouring Amazon for a few days now and haven't come across any promising hits.

We're remodeling our master bathroom and unfortunately the ceiling above the shower is vaulted which doesn't lend itself very well to effective recessed lighting of the shower itself.

Thanks for your help


texts:
I'd like to install a new skylight in my dining room.  The skylight is 30x30 and will require one ceiling joist to be cut and (2) new double headers to be installed.   Do the new headers need to span from the uncut joists (B) or can I simply install them as bracing, between cut and uncut joists (A).

If I go with method (A), the drywall hole I cut in the ceiling is a one-time thing.   If I go with method (B), I think I need to extend the cut of the drywall another 3" on each side, remove the joist section, install headers, and then add drywall to cover the headers.   Make sense?
(A) seems simpler to me.

All work will be done from below because attic is too small to do work from above.


texts: How can I reduce the noise from a bathroom fan?

texts: I would like to stop an extractor fan shaking my ceiling as it makes a lot of noise. What is the best way to dampen it? (foam, springs etc). Its an exhaust vent for bathroom and is inline with exhaust pipe (not directly fitted) and runs into and out from attic.


texts: Should there be waterproofing between the rim joist and ledger on new construction?

texts:
My new house is being built with a deck and I noticed that the framer has fastened the ledger directly to the rim joist without any sort of waterproofing between.   The sheathing which is Zip system doesn't cover the rim joist either, so it's truly ledger on joist.

When I asked him he said that because the deck will be waterproof (it's over the entry and is pitched and will be roofed before sleepers and decking) it will be flashed along with the remainder of the waterproofing and water will never get in.  I would still have liked to see some flashing between the boards, but will it be watertight?   I can't find any code that requires that he does it the way I would thing it should be done which is flashed behind and above the ledger.


texts: Do I need a moisture barrier outside my garage wall insulation?

texts: I want to insulate my garage and drywall it , The outside walls are bare brick with 2by 4 studded walls on the inside do I have to put a plastic barrier up before I use batted insulation to keep mositure away from the batting


texts: Installing Plywood Underlayment over Plywood Subfloor

texts:
We are renovating an apartment and trying to install a 3/4'' solid hardwood floor in the living room. We pulled out the existing carpet along with a 5/8''particle board underlayment. Under that we found 15/32'' plywood subfloor (not tongue-and-groove) over joists and we are trying to determine the best way to proceed from here.

Based on bits and pieces I've collected from online forums, it's my understanding that we have to install additional plywood underlayment as the current subfloor is too thin. We will also try to put extra screws in the subfloor as it is currently creaking.

My questions are:

What thickness plywood should we use for the underlayment - 5/8'', 3/4'' ?
Should the plywood be tongue-and-groove ?
How do we lay the underlayment over the subfloor - parallel, perpendicular?
How to fasten it - screws/nails AND glue?

One more thing to note is that the hardwood floor will transition to tiles at the end of this room as it enters the hallway so that might have some significance for the choice of the underlayment thickness.


texts: Is there a quick cure for refrigerator drip tray stink?

texts:
My fridge has a bad stink that has been getting worse lately. I can clean it out and temporarily fix it with vinegar ,bleach, and/or baking powder, but these are not long term fixes. When the water comes back, the stink eventually does too. I'm not sure if the vinegar or bleach isn't just evaporating. I wonder if getting one of those urinal mints would be a good solution? The fridge seems designed to dump condensate in this area and evaporate it by close proximity to the hot compressor. Any ideas?

Update: I'm getting the best results yet simply by putting in those little chlorinater tabs for the pool floaties. Don't put too many in though, because it is very strong. Kills all the odors and smells real clean.


texts:
I have an old outdoor lamp and the wires used to be all twisted up so a friend cut them for me before we put the lamp in storage. Now I finally have it out of storage but I don't know what wires connect to what (pic attached). I know the green one is the ground wire, but beyond that I've got nothing. The "light bulb" side has three black and three white wires, and the base side has one white, one black, and one green. How do I attach these two sides?

Edit: this isn't the exact same model but it's very similar: https://www.target.com/p/manhattan-3-outdoor-lantern-post-bronze/-/A-14931671 I don't recall any part of the wiring being connected to the "body" when we first opened it up so I'm unsure what the green wire would attach to

Edit2: I will give the suggestions a try and update this post when I can -- thank you all


texts: safely de-energizing a junction box so that I can permanently cover it up

texts: I have a junction box in my ceiling that is controlled by a single light switch. I no longer want to use the junction box or have it exposed and I'd like to cover with drywall-- much preferable to a plastic cap or painted blank. I know typically this isn't legal or safe but I was wondering if it would be OK to do if I disconnected and capped the wires leading into the relevant light switch from my circuit--effectively de-energizing the junction box (there is nothing downstream of the junction box using those wires, they terminate in the box). The light switch would remain so anyone could access the wires there and also anyone could easily re-attach them to make use of the junction box in future. Thank you!


texts: I'm wondering what to use to fill a gap between my conservatory floor tiles and dining room parquet flooring. I originally put a pvc threshold there to cover the gap but this through way has been dislodged many times now by my wifes carers.  I was told to use a coloured floor cement ? But I've heard about using silicone caulk ? Many thanks


texts: Should the underside of a deck be stained?

texts: When one stains a wooden deck, should they stain the underside of the deck too?


texts: Upgrading Doorbell Transformer for Ring Doorbell Pro

texts:
I'm upgrading my Doorbell Transformer.  I already connected the house wire to the Transformer, but the doorbell wiring got me confused.
I have two white wires that I know will go together and Then I have one black wire.  Don't know which screw to connect it too on the diagram.  I see the two spots for the 16v which is the minimum and the two spots for the 24vac.
Which side does the white one go to and which side does the black go to?


texts:
I was doing my annual dryer maintenance, when I noticed that the main dryer vent line has fallen off. Looking to reconnect without putting a large hole in the floor.

In detail:

We have second story laundry with a 19' rigid dryer line to the outside.
There is ~60° bend where the line was attached to another flanged rigid piece (about 1') which was mounted to the floor.
From there there is a short Al flexible connection to the dryer (a 12" rigid pipe out of the back of the dryer).

When I disconnected the flexible portion, I noticed that the rigid piece in the floor opened up to the sub flooring as the line to the exterior had fallen off.

I was able to pull the piece in the floor out, and expanded the hole slightly to be able to manipulate the the exterior line. I put in a brace to hold it up (which was hard) but I really can't get a hand plus the rigid pipe in the hole.

There are joists about 6" apart limiting horizontal expansion of the hole, but I could continue to expand it vertically (not that I really want to cut through the subflooring).

Are there any tools, tricks, or special connectors that would make it easier to reconnect the line?

It was originally done during the construction of the house before the 2nd story flooring was put in.

Photos:


texts: How to add an extra light to an existing light

texts: I have a question that I think is really simple for you experts (naturally I'm a novice) so hopefully someone can help me out. I want to add an additional light to an existing light already installed in my basement about 10 feet away. At the existing fixture location, there is a 2-wire cable and 3-wire cable as shown in the attachment, and wired the same way. How is the proper way to connect a new light to the existing fixture. Is it as simple as me installing new 14-2 wire cable from a new light, and attaching to the neutral, hot (red), and ground wire at the existing fixture?  Any advise or confirmation is greatly appreciated. Thank you.


texts: How can I treat and prevent rust in steel wire rope?

texts:
After 8 years of questions, I finally completed the fence. The issue I’m having now is that the loops in the steel are rusting at a pretty fast rate.
I’m looking to spray them with something that will just stop the corrosion.
What do you suggest? The screw eyes are stainless steel.


texts: The water supply line is stuck and the nut is removed. It turns with some force but won't detach from the bottom of the tank


texts:
I'm going to be building a semi outdoor kitchen; outdoor but under a roof. Please note I live in a tropical country.

The kitchen I'm looking to build has an L shape, won't have much equipment in them and will only have a base and countertop. No cabinets need to go up. I've been thinking about using metal studs for the framing.

What I'm thinking is to build simple frames and space them apart every 16 inches. I use drywall to close the whole thing off, and buy a countertop. If I can't cabinets below, I would hang a wooden door from the metal studs and create a box inside with its own feet for weight support. To me this seems like the fastest way where termites won't eat my kitchen.

The only two concerns I have are this:

1) can the metal studs carry the weight of a countertop and the work that happens on there? They're designed to hold up walls after, which creates different forces.

2) how do I handle the drywall to be able to withstand being exposed to outside air? It won't be in direct rain or anything, but temperatures swing from 70-120 (20-50C) with high humidity.


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I am hooking up a 4 wire cord to a 3 wire dryer. I don’t see a green screw but there are two other green cords with a stripe on them that I can’t seem to turn.
Where should the green wire from my cord go?
Those are the only other screws in that terminal area.