texts: How to handle 4 wires using 3-port AlumiConn connectors?

texts:
I'm rewiring outlets and switches in our 1960's California home using AlumiConn connectors to connect the aluminum wiring to copper pigtails.  Most cases are straightforward, but I've run into a case where a box (a double-sized box, thankfully) includes a joint of the neutrals of 4 aluminum wires (10 gauge each).  AlumiConn's only come with a max of 3 ports.

What is the correct way to handle 4-wire connections?  Is it correct to daisy chain the AlumiConns?

Lacking any other instructions, my instinct would be to wire them like this, but I don't know if this is acceptable, safe or correct:

  AL  AL      CU      AL     AL
  |    |   ,------.    |     |
  |    |   |      |    |     |
,--._,--._,--.   ,--._,--._,--.
|  AlumiConn |   |  AlumiConn |
`------------'   `------------'


texts: Safe materials to come in contact with copper plumbing

texts:
We live in a duplex and in our basement the copper pipes run parralel along our joists just beneath the first floor above. There is a large header running perpendcular just beneath the joists resulting in a very large exposed area between units along the 10" joists. Unfortunately we have a rodent issue where rats can cross back and forth between the joists from out unit to our neighbor's. I'm in the process of blocking the area off between each joist with lumber to prevent passage between units. In other words, when you reach up and stick your arm through this area from one side your hand is visible on the other side inside our neighbor's basement. But in one area we have about four pipes running along the joists which is making it very difficult to block off.

What materials can come in direct contact with copper pipes that won't result in corrosion and eventual leakage and failure? I was thinking of some type of metal netting that rats can chew through. But I'm concerned the metal in whatever I use might corrode the copper pipe since whatever I use will have to be in contact with the copper pipes to create a barrier for the rats. Great Stuff foam isn't an option as they (rodents) eat right through this. Also, is there a type of caulk that is safe to be in direct contat with copper pipes? Some of the pipes run vertically up between our shared wall. The holes drilled in the wood to allow the pipes to run through are large enough for rodents to fit through and get into our walls. Is there a copper safe caulk I can use to seal off these openings to prevent them from getting in?


texts: Deck, Connecting two beams to support cantilevered joists

texts:
I am re-posting this because my original post had poor drawing and caused a lot of confusion.
See image below. I have a joist that is cantilevered 4' 10" (colored in cyan for quick reference), which I wish to support by a double 2x12 (or smaller?) beam which colored in purple for quick reference.
My question is: Is this acceptable? The span of the "purple" beam would be ~14', but all it's really needed for is to support those joist that are cantilevered.


texts: How much difference does hot vs cold air make with regards to an Aprilaire 600 furnace humidifier evaporation rate?

texts: If I run the humidifier only when the heat is on, I get good evaporation.  However, I want to consider also running it with just the fan running because our furnace doesn't run all that often.  Will I still achieve reasonable evaporation in this case?


texts: Hue (led) bulb does't turn on when put in certain lamps?

texts:
Just acquired my first set of Hue lights (E27 type) and to my disappointment when I put them in my bedroom ceiling lamp they do not turn on. However If I try by putting them in a ceiling lamp in the kitchen they turn on just fine.

How can I debug this? Is my ceiling lamp to old and reject LED bulb? Can there be any electrical problem with my bedroom ceiling light wiring ?

Note that all my lights are E14 type and I'm using E14 -> E27 Adapters. I thought at first the adapter was broken but it's not the issue because it works fine on my kitchen lamps.

(I also have a desk lamp E27 type in my bedroom and the bulb works fine in there as well)

This is a picture of the socket


texts:
I have two three-way switches controlling the bottom outlets in my living room receptacles. I recently replaced one with a Lutron Caseta and it worked great, no issues.
More recently, I went to swap the other three-way and one of the visible receptacles from almond to white just so everything matched. I’m not very knowledgeable with AC but I shut the breaker off and replaced the receptacle and switch wire-for-wire (or so I thought).
I turned the breaker back on and now had constant power to the receptacles, but the Caseta did not have the little green light it normally has, and flipping the three-way switch did not cut power off.
In order to troubleshoot I replaced the Caseta with the original 3-way switch. Same problem, constant power.
My primary issue is the color of the wires does not match any diagram I can find. One 3-way has ground, black, white, and red. Another has two red, one white (no tape), and ground. The bottom outlet of the receptacle I replaced has one white on one side and two red on the other (one screwed one, one punched in). There are no caps in the boxes like I would have expected where neutral is being run through.
So I am thoroughly confused by this wiring, and it seems the most obvious source of the issue is that I misplaced a wire connection in the switch or receptacle, but I have no idea where because none of the diagrams I have found seem to apply. How do I fix this?


texts: Can I pour epoxy pebble flooring over electric warm floor?  In our bathroom/laundry area, we plan to first lay hardiboard.  Then I may need floor leveler as well.  Should the warm floor be put down before the leveler (if I use leveler) and then can the epoxy flooring be put on top of all of it?


texts: How to stop concrete slab floor from absorbing water

texts:
This weekend my wife decided to clean up my office.  When she pulled the old filing cabinet away from the way, she noticed the baseboards and carpet carpet were showing signs of water damage.

It's a problem I have seen on the opposite side of the house, in our master closet, where I installed a wooden glue-down floor.  The floor seems to get wet spots in times when we get heavy rain lasting a few days.  I was told it was because I used the wrong glue, and that I should have used a glue that was a water barrier, but it's a closet, and I got the flooring really cheap, so it never really bothered me that I had some semi-dark patches.

Well, I had a neighbor come over that had a moisture meter.  We did some poking around, and from all of the signs the water is wicking up: No water in the attic (that we can see), slab is darker, especially near the wall, tack strips show signs of being wet, and the drywall shows signs of moister about 2' to 3' up from the floor, but dry above.

So, to the plan: I am thinking of a multi-phase approach here.  First phase, dig about a 6" trench against the side of the house, about 6" below the bottom of the slap.  Paint the slab itself with some sort of water barrier, like maybe tar or something meant for basements.  Install a french drain and tee it off to about 5' or more towards the neighbor's house, covering the drain pipe against the house with white gravel.  Optionally, create a drain field buy digging down a large hold and filling it with gravel as well, but I am not sure if this might be overkill.  I would do this on both sides of the house.  The front and back do not seem to suffer the same problems.

Second phase is to install gutters around the side and back of the house, making sure to direct the runoff at least a few feet from the house.

So, the first barrage of questions: Is phase one gross overkill?  If so, should I just put in some gravel, fore go the french drain part?  Would the paint/sealant on the slab cause problems in itself?  If now, what would be a good, cheap product to buy to paint it with?

If it helps, I live in Central Florida.  The house is about 7 yrs old, we are the only owner.  The soil around me is mostly sandy, and used to be an orange grove.


texts:
I have a 2 meters long plastic tube with 8 mm inner diameter, and I need to pull 5 wires with a 6 mm  diameter silicone tube through it. But all the different ways I tried were unsuccessful and It made me really frustrated.

What is the best way you propose for doing this?

I have limits in choosing a larger diameter plastic tube.
As you can see in the picture, although being slightly tight, there is enough space for pulling them through the tube.

Thanks.


texts: When using using 3/4 PEX for cold water in a bathroom that has shower, sink and toilet, do I need to reduce to 1/2 when I am branching to the fixture?

texts:
I was advised to use 1/2 PEX for the hot water and 3/4 Pex for the cold water
The bathroom has shower, sink and toilet
Do I need to reduce to 1/2 when I am branching to the fixture ?
I can't find ball quarter turn shutoff angle valves that go from 3/4in PEX to 5/8s


texts: Possible to screw machine screw in wall?

texts:
Background

I would like to build picture frames, where there on the back is a hole with 18mm in diameter and 7mm in depth. In the hole will I glue a 2mm metal plate.

On the wall would I like to screw in a magnet, like the one below, which is 16mm in diameter and 5mm in depth.

The picture frame will rest on the top of the magnet, and the magnetism will prevent the frame from tipping.

Question

Is it possible to screw an M4 machine screw like the one below into a brick wall?

If so, what is required?


texts: What kind of joint is the best for joining wooden countertops?

texts:
I am installing a wall-to-wall desk in my office, which wraps around on one side.

One side is 10'-9", and the other is 3'-8".

The material is two lengths of oak butcher-block:

8'-2" x 25" x 1-1/8"
6'-2" x 25" x 1-1/8"

I see the need for two joints:

Joining the 8'2" piece with a 2'7" piece to span the 10'9" wall
Joining the two lengths in a diagonal corner

What are the best joints for these? I am installing the counter top using brackets so there will be no legs.


texts: Cleaning oil-based paint from brush efficiently

texts:
Each time I need to use oil-based paint, I struggle for the paintbrush cleaning part. Here is how I proceed:

I start by trying to squeeze the paint out from the brush, using paper towel, as much as I can, without thinner (of course, I get paint all over my hands after this).
Then, I have an old jar in which I keep the white spirit from previous cleanings (the white spirit there is really dirty). I put the brush in it, stir a bit, and squeeze again with more paper towel (now it gets on the ground too).
When I feel it's enough, I hold the brush, tilted, above some more new paper towel, and drip some fresh clean white spirit on the top of the bristles. I see some of the remaining paint getting drained with it and I wipe it on the paper towel.
I check if there is still paint on the brush by wiping it on more fresh paper towel. Of course there is. Repeat step 3. Again. Again.
I eventually get tired of that, and say it's enough. I put the brush away.
When I need to reuse two weeks later, it is rock hard. I usually manage to get it back to condition by putting some white spirit on it and flex it gently, little by little.

Overall, I wasted:

Twenty minutes
Half a roll of paper towel
Not that much white spirit, thanks to the old jar, but still quite a bit (I can probably clean a brush 10 times with 1L)
The ground and my hands

It doesn't seem very effective. Is there a better process? Using less paper towel, less white spirit, which takes less time and which is more gentle to the environment (which includes the natural environment, but also the ground and my hands)?


texts: How do I finish a pine wood floor so that it can be waxed?

texts:
My house has pine floors in the kitchen and upstairs, and its finish has almost entirely rubbed off, and is now showing bare wood. I'm interested in applying a wax (or maybe oil?) finish on it (mostly so that scratches can be buffed out).

How do I prepare the floor and what sorts of products do I use? Is it common to lacquer, shellac, or oil (Tung? Linseed?) the floors before waxing them? Does it make a difference if I use a paste wax versus a liquid wax?

I know that polyurethane would be the toughest and most water resistant finish, but I'm worried about it getting lots of scratches that cannot be easily removed. What would the most durable finish be for the kitchen that I could spot-repair (with, for example, wax)?

So, my current plan is to apply a few coats coats of tung oil, and then wax the floor. I'm not sure if applying shellac in between is a good idea (or not).


texts: We have old, ugly kitchen cabinet hinges.  I've read conflicting opinions online as to whether spray painting them is a good idea.  How would you do it if you were going to go for it?


texts: How do I know if my engineered hardwood is glued down?

texts:
I'm planning on replacing my hardwood floors but I don't know if my current floors are glued down, floating, or nailed. Is there a way to find out before starting?
This is on the second floor, so the base is wood. The same hardwood is installed on the first floor with a concrete slab.


texts: Why am I getting arcing on my neutral bus in a sub-panel?

texts: I installed a sub panel from a main and am getting arcing on the sub panel neutral bar and neutral circuit wires are becoming discolored in sub panel. I checked for grounding of sub panel neutral bar and there is none. I removed all sub panel circuit wires and still had arcing. I Double checked wiring from main all was good. Voltage check on sub panel bus is fine. What could cause this arcing of neutral bar?


texts: Water hammer, PRV, and safe water pressure at water heater

texts:
Our main water line into the house was making a loud whining noise whenever a shower was on, so we had a plumber come out and they decided to replace the PRV (which appeared original to the 1970's home).

However, we began to have really bad water hammer and they same company came out and tried replacing the PRV and adjusting the pressure. The thing that fixed it was opening the PRV to allow full pressure and then lowering the pressure until the water hammer came back. He then opened the pressure slightly and called it good.

Out of curiosity, I attached a pressure gauge to my water heater and was amazed that it registered 120 PSI!

Is this safe?

What else can be done to fix the water hammer issue and not expose my home to such high water pressures?


texts: How to reroute electrical cables when eliminating void space that has been used for routing them?

texts:
I want to incorporate the space from a laundry chute into a gut job of an adjacent bathroom.  Over the years electricians have used the disused chute as a raceway for wiring from the basement to the 2nd floor.  There are about 8 electrical cables running through it.
After ripping out the chute I'll be left with these cables running vertically through what will be my bathroom space.  I need to bury them in the adjacent walls.
I think the available approaches are:

Run them all into notches in the sills and joists as they pass through the new bathroom walls.   They may not need to pass through joists as they run vertically but I won't know for sure til it's all ripped open.  They may not have enough slack to do this, in which case it would not be an option.
Pull them out, all the way from the breaker panel to the second floor, then re-run them through holes drilled in the sills and joists.
Cut them so I can run them through holes without ripping them out entirely back to the panel, then splice them back in a big junction box in the wall that would have to be exposed to the adjacent bedroom.
Cut them just above or below the new bathroom, rather than in it, so the new junction box can be exposed in a wall in one of the rooms above or below, rather than the adjacent bedroom.

I don't know if (1) using notches is allowed.
(2) Ripping all these cables out back to the panel will be a ton of work disrupting several other rooms.
It seems cutting and splicing them is the best solution.  I think I have an inconspicuous place to expose the junction box cover in the room above the bathroom so I won't have to have it in the bedroom.   I may need two junction boxes if there's not enough slack in the cable.   This seems like a mess to me but is it the best solution?
IDK if this helps/matters but it's an 1896 construction with hugely oversized framing by today's standards.  Theoretically I can get away with notches and holes in excess of what today's code specifies, although I doubt that today's code would provide an exception for that so it's probably not of much use.
Any ideas/pointers/warnings?


texts: Is it possible to use the ice maker on a refrigerator without a water supply line?

texts:
Our department just moved physical locations.  We were able to bring the fridge from our previous break room, but our new location does not have a water line anywhere nearby for the ice maker.  The simple solution, of course, is to just use ice cube trays, but I would really like it to be constantly producing ice (not have to rely on coworkers to refill the trays).

My thought is to get a 1-2 gallon container, and hook the water line into the bottom and then set it on top of the fridge.  This way you can refill it in large quantities at once, rather than tray by tray.  The container would be clear, to see the water level and to see if it needs to be cleaned, and with a lid to keep out dust.  With the container sitting above the fridge, gravity should provide sufficient pressure to supply the maker with water.

Would such a system work?  Does anybody see any potential problems with setting up something like this?  Are there any better alternatives?


texts: Difficulty attaching 2x4s to poured concrete wall

texts:
We are novice DIYers attempting to finish our garage walls in a 10 year old Ryan Home with a poured concrete foundation.  I had planned to lay the 2x4s flat against the wall, meaning I need a fastener of 1.5" for the lumber and additional length for the concrete.

Initially I purchased a Ryobi hammer drill and two packs of Tapcon 2 1/4" concrete anchors which came with a drill bit.  We were able to drill one hole with difficulty and the bit was burnt out by the time our second hole was barely started.  I tried drilling several different places in case I was hitting reinforcement.  At this point I was concerned I had done something wrong and damaged the bit.

I stopped at Ace hardware and asked their advice and they weren't sure what was causing the problem.  They recommended I try a powder nail gun, which I purchased along with Ramset 3" pins and yellow loads (listed as 4/5 power, the strongest Ace had).  When I tried this the nail was still protruding 3/4" from the wood, which means that it made it less than 3/4" into the concrete.  This has led me to believe that there is some sort of reinforcement in the wall or in the way the concrete was mixed that is causing problems.

Is there something special about some concrete walls that needs to be taken into account and worked around when finishing them out?  What could cause the standard methods of securing lumber to concrete to fail like this?  Should I simply try again with the same powder load and a 2 1/2" pin?

EDIT

Given the difficulty in getting through the concrete, would it work to treat it more like an interior wall and completely frame it on the floor, then lay the whole thing against the wall?  That would allow the 2x4s to provide structural support against each other instead of the wall, minimizing the concrete anchors I need.  It would also address issues with the concrete wall not being completely flat.

Or would that not be a good idea?


texts: How can I remove a 240V heater to make 110V outlet

texts: How do I remove a 240V baseboard heater and install a 110V wall outlet. 2 heaters are on the circuit. Both are being removed.  On 20 amp double pole in breaker box with 2 wires. I want to remove that and install a single 15 amp 110. There is a red and a black connected to the double pole breaker. Where do i put the red wire?


texts: I tore out all the old flooring upstairs of my split foyer home and need to know how I can stop the squeaking of the subfloor before I have the new flooring put down. Obviously the squeak wasn't in the old flooring. Subfloors are all that's left. There are several places that squeak pretty bad, one in the living room and one in a bedroom


texts:
This is our second winter in our house and have been noticing mice ever since it started getting cold. I've been examining the exterior of the house trying to locate intrusion points which I've been sealing up with steel wool and caulk. The majority of the exterior at ground level is concrete foundation but one area on the side has vinyl siding which extends to ground level.
While examining this area today I noticed pieces of insulation on the ground indicating mice could be burrowing under this area but I have no idea how to seal it up since it extends along the entire side of the house. I slid a finger under and there is a big gap to the other side but I don't know what the other side looks like and am trying to avoid removing the siding if at all possible.
What would you recommend I do to prevent intrusion in this area?


texts: I want to use a 2.5 CFM vacuum pump (from Pittsburgh Automotive... http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html) to pull a vacuum on a system in my house. I am a bit confused, though, as to how the pump works since there is only an inlet valve but no outlet? I will suck the gas into the pump to create vacuum in the system, but where does that gas then go?


texts: I am going to be installing some 2” x 4” mosaic tile sheets in my bathroom. What would be the best method to cut the tile edges to size? Would a score and snap cutter give the cleanest edge?


texts: Is it ok for vent pipe flashing/boots to have exposed nails?

texts:
I bought one of these Ultimate Pipe Flashings vent boot flashing units which come with these nail slots to secure the unit. Part of their instructions is to only fasten with nails within the slots designed into the unit.

Lifetime Tool ultimate pipe flashing fitting installation

What I'm curious about is whether or not its a bad idea to nail a vent flashing in areas that are exposed, ie not covered by shingles, even if you caulk the nails.

Nailed Flashing Examples

Here's some examples where I'm seeing them installed with exposed nails.

How to install a pipe boot on your roof

Vent Seal Plus - 2 In. Full Skirt

Perma-Boot 312 2" Repair System - Black

How-To: Shingle around a vent pipe Flashing

Warped Flashing

I would think even with caulking its a bad idea simply with expansion and contraction of the materials at different rates which should wiggle out the nails as I see in my family's roof if you look at the warped and wavy flashings in this image. (I believe all the flashing is original to the roof, so some 40+ years old). I also noticed with the examples that the nails eventually rust and would consequently shrink and allow water to seep as they lose their bite onto the sheathing.


texts: Can I add a wye fitting to this cast-iron drain stack?

texts:
I recently leased a warehouse space in which I am trying to add a shower to a current half bath. There is a mini basement right below the bathroom which contains the plumbing.

Attached is a photo of what seems to be a series of drains from other fixtures coming into what I assume is a sewer ejector pump before it makes its way out of the building. My question, assuming all of this so far is correct, is whether I can add in another wye fitting into this main stack for my shower drain.

For reference my shower will be right above my head where I took this photo so about 2-4 feet max. One follow up question is if there is any opposition to the new drain from the shower to be PVC instead of cast iron. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!


texts: Is huge gaps between wall and baseboard normal after reinstall them?

texts: recently I have a contractor installed hardwood floor in my house. However, after the baseboard are reinstalled back, there are huge gaps between wall and baseboards. They said it is normal and let myself do the caulking. But about 30% of the gap is pretty huge and hard to caulking. I uploaded a few pictures using a coin to measure the gap. Could anyone help and tell me if this gap is normal or not? Thank you!


texts: Electric apartment sockets catching on fire

texts: I live in an apartment building, within the past year 4 of my sockets sparked and then caught on fire for a few seconds. The apartment manager claims there’s nothing wrong with the sockets because the maintenance man said the reader reads fine. What could be the reason my sockets keep sparking, catching fire and then blowing out my electronics. As long as the socket reader reads green as in good the apartment says theres no problem.


texts: moisture barrier for an indoor swimming pool

texts: What is the proper way to install wall boards with a water barrier? I am concerned about moisture escaping into walls. I'm istalling an indoor swimming pool and am concerned about moisture.


texts: Should I replace entire houses sheathing?

texts: I have inherited a 1950s house that has vinyl over original wood siding over old fiber board. Much of the house's siding is damaged and needs replaced. I'm thinking of replacing the full house's sheathing so I can re-insulate it and install new windows and Hardie siding or vinyl. The question is "is ripping off all the sheathing over doing it or the best option?" Also, what type of insulation and sheathing should I use? I'm located in Wichita, Kansas.


texts: How to choose a weekend warrior's finishing nail gun?

texts:
BACKGROUND
I am not planning to use it with any regularity, just when maintenance projects come up.  15 residences are maintained: ranging from 20-50 years in age.
My next project will involve nailing in shoe molding. Current context includes an existing eco-system of Ryobi battery driven drills / weed whackers etc.  A portable air tank is also in the tool crib.
QUESTIONS

Is a "brad" finish nailer (vs. finishing nailer) the better choice for shoe molding?

Is the first feature-decision will need to be made between electric vs. pneumatic air gun?

What other features are important to evaluate and what is the order of such a list?

What is the thought process to correctly choose finishing nail gun features?

I am not seeking specific make / model recommendations, as this would have the question run afoul of rules and result in deleting the question.


texts: Is it possible to inspect a chimney flue from the fireplace to determine whether it needs cleaning? Maybe with a flexible shaft camera? What is the procedure?


texts: Are entry door systems with lock release secure?

texts:
I am renovating my recently bought house. It currently has a entry door system with a lock release on the yale lock so that you can release the door from one of the handsets. something like this.

I have handsets all over the house so I opened up the entry system outside (1 screw) to make sense of all the wiring and realised that I could short circuit the power and lock wire and open the door from outside.

I would have thought that it would be more sensible if the door release circuit was not exposed outside.

Is this how they all work?

Surely this isn't secure?

Can I improve this?


texts: How can I determine if a wall is load bearing?

texts: I am doing some renovations on our home and would like to open up some areas but not sure if the walls are load bearing or not I have a three story semidetached home no basement just a crawlspace were furnace is and duck work. also would like to open up stair ways but keep part of walls


texts:
There is an exposed copper wire attached to the cold-water pipe near the dryer plug in my house. It's not attached to anything and I'm wondering when it would be useful if at all?

This wire just hanging next to the dryer electric outlet.  In it's current state it isn't doing anything so I would like to remove it or make it functional again.

Near the service panel there is another one of these on the cold water pipe that goes into a conduit that goes into the service panel:


texts: I was thinking that if we do need a better aerial for receiving Freeview TV broadcasts, is there an ideal position where we can put it? I was thinking of putting it at the rear of the property like in the picture.  Is this OK? It's a backup plan in case the local engineer wants an arm and a leg to fit a new aerial. It saves us climbing onto the roof which is a major risk if you're not used to it.


texts: I have power from an outlet, to a light, then to a switch.  I want to wire my motion light into the switch for constant power.  I have a red/black wire on the switch and a black/white wire on the motion light. what combo do I need for this to work?


texts: how to add 'bikeport' to 7x7 plastic / resin shed

texts: I have a 7x7 resin / plastic shed. How can i add a 'bikeport' to side?  Especially how to attach it to the current shed.  Was thinking about getting one of those plastic fences and taking the planks off of it and using as a roof for 'bikeport'.  How to attach though to current shed?  Current shed is on very sturdy 2x6 pressure treated base.  By 'bikeport', I mean a side structure attached to the shed, like a carport, but smaller.  A roof structure that is otherwise open but supported by posts.


texts: How do I read the specifications for this Panasonic microwave trim kit?

texts:
The web page for the NN-TK922SS 27" Wide Trim Kit for select Panasonic Microwave Ovens includes these specifications:

TRIM KIT OUTER SIZE
Side A: 18-9/16"
Side B: 27"

TRIM KIT INNER SIZE
Side C: 24-5/8"
Side D: 13-7/16"

CABINET OPENING
Side E: 25-1/2"
Side F: 17-3/8"
Side G: 21" minimum

What is meant by Sides A, B, C, D, E, F, and G?

The cut-out in the plans for my cabinet is 25-1/2" wide and 15-5/16" high. I want to make sure that the trim will fit in/on the cabinet.


texts:
My kitchen faucet is leaking at the swivel. I have no idea what type of faucet this is, as it was here when we moved in:

I assume there's some kind of o-ring I can replace here. But, I honestly can't even find a screw to get this thing apart to see what I need.

How do these things usually come apart?
Is this a simple fix once I get this apart?


texts: Doing drywall panels on ceiling share joists at edges?

texts:
Installing 4x8 panels and I am staggering them perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
My joists are 16" o.c. and I'm wondering is when the panels butt, will the be sharing the center of a joist or will the ends be floating? It looks like a single panel will sit flush with the edge of the joist, therefore the butt joint immediately following that panel will be "floating".
Is that typical and then that joint is just taped and mudded? Or for those cases do I need to install braces between the joists for additional screwing?


texts:
I live in a rural area and have a ~125 gallon propane tank on a concrete slab that is serviced by a mobile propane delivery company. We use it for hot water, the gas range, and our forced air heating system rarely since we primarily rely on the abundant wood. This is my outside tank:

Also because we're in a rural mountain town we lose electricity sometimes. We have a gas/propane duel-fuel generator connected to our house with a generator transfer / interrupt panel. We have a 30lb propane tank and maybe ~20 gallons of gasoline hanging around.

The propane tank and connection I use for running the generator:

I was wondering what it would take to connect my larger tank to my generator. I'm fine with having a propane-plumber do it, but I'd still like to know the pieces involved. Fundamentally I don't want to end up in a situation where I'm out of propane for my generator while still having 100 gallons 15 feet away.


texts: Does insulating an Air Conditioner from inside (for winter) increase chance of damage?

texts:
I have two window air conditioners that I'd like to seal during winter (Friedrichs).  I'm considering sealing them from inside (with blankets or foam) as they let in a lot of cold air and noise.  However, I'm thinking thermodynamically that means the AC will get a lot colder (since it's not being warmed from inside the house).

I would be installing something like this: Chillstop from Sustainablesupply.com

Does this increase chance of damaging the AC?  Can the AC (I'm thinking in particular the ball bearings) handle being in winter without thermo access to the inside of the house?

These are removable AC's but then I have the problem of storage and sealing in the window casing (it's screwed into the window itself).

Any advice/thoughts much appreciated!


texts:
My furnace seems to work intermittently. overnight its seems to stop... i have checked the thermostat and it shows says it is heating. fan is on auto, but nothing coming out.
when i turn heat to off, then back on again i can hear the furnace try to start up... however it cuts out a couple seconds later. i try that a couple of times then it seems to work again for a while...
any help would be appreciated.
A


texts:
The picture shows the spot in my front yard where an outlet used to be. There is a fourth wire not visible in the picture. We have since brought the  grade down about two feet and it no longer makes sense for us to have an outlet there as it would be in the middle of a patio-type space. The space will mostly likely have a gravel covering. The wires feed outdoor street lights which cannot be sacrificed.
I don't suppose I could make the junction underground - or can I?
Assuming I can't, what are some of the alternative solutions that are not a complete eyesore?

Update: for all the good answers I received, I cannot find a device for making a waterproof 4-way underground splice.


texts: Replacing either the light socket or the whole recessed light fixture

texts: Fixing my old house up to put on the market.  Had it rewired a couple yrs ago. This light fixture is above my kitchen sink.Keeps tripping out when turned on.  I can't find square recessed lighting to save my life! Can I just have the socket replaced or do I need a new light fixture all together?  Obviously not a square recessed one. I would like to update the look of the light if possible without putting too much money or work into it.


texts: I recently purchased this house which has a raised concrete patio in the rear that has a large depression in the middle probably 4' wide by 6' long.  You can see the cracks in the concrete where the water settles (picture below).  I assume this is due to the material that is underneath from the original construction of the house breaking down and the concrete settling.  So I am looking for options other than replacing the whole thing.  Possibly filling the area with some type of self leveling top coat or something.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.


texts: Proper header size for a 10 foot span, non load-bearing wall

texts: I am wanting to add a divider wall in my garage to separate a work space from the parking area. I got a great deal on a 10 foot wide by 7 foot tall roll-up door. I framed my basement when finishing it, but nothing this wide. All documentation I have found on header sizing refers to load-bearing walls. This one will be self-sufficient and attached to existing walls and the existing ceiling. Any advice on how large the header need to be and how many jack studs?


texts: Hammering a rebar into the ground without bending it

texts:
I want to hammer a rebar into semi-hard ground (about 2 feet in). What options do I have in order to hammer it in straight, without bending it in the process?

EDIT: This is a 3/8″ diameter rebar.

Tools I'm currently thinking of:

Sledge Hammer - worried that there are better chances of the rebar bending in the process.
Rotary Hammer - haven't used a tool like this before. What are the pros/cons? (other than the higher price, compared to a sledge hammer)

Any other options I'm missing here?

Thanks


texts: 2 wire light fixture with black and green wires

texts: wife bought an old light fixture for kitchen with only black and green wires bonded with rubber sheathing. Do i simply cut and cap the white common wire from the house feed? Of course it has 5 lights and a plastic shell,will try to post pics


texts: How can I remove this thermostatic mixing shower faceplate?

texts:
This shower has a temperature selection knob, which operates separately from the water pressure/on-off knob.  The selection is unresponsive, water temperature does not rise or fall when the knob is twisted.

I thought I'd start by taking the faceplate off and learning more, possibly replacing a cartridge.  But pulling off the faceplate is blocked by the black ridged ring on the knob:

I see no indication of the manufacturer or model of this shower.  Any advice for how to proceed?  This is what it looks like behind the knob, peeking behind the faceplate when it's slid out as far as I can:

It seems like I might be able to address the problem there.  But with the faceplate on, I can't access those parts.  Other detail in case relevant: this temperature selector knob controls three shower heads, two of which share one on-off knob and the third on a separate on-off.


texts: How does one determine what size I-beam is needed?

texts: I have a 22' wall that needs removed to open for a room addition.  I have a 4/12 roof, (11) 24' trusses that will need supported as I open up that room.  Thanks for any information you may be able to provide.  Much appreciated.


texts: Is there a better more flexible framing material for screens than aluminum kits?

texts: Our windows are old and do not lend themselves to easy removal of the screens. In fact when I remove a screen I frequently bend it beyond repair. Is there a better more flexible framing material for screens than the aluminum kits from home depot?  You'd think better technology would exist.


texts: Can I Remove One Side of Wall for Shelves

texts:
Our bathroom is a bit small and I want to take advantage of all the space I can for making shelves. I would like to remove the drywall on the bathroom side of an interior wall between 2 studs and use thin pallet wood to frame in a shelf that will protrude out from the wall a bit. Are there any rules or restrictions when doing this? This is on an interior wall. The other side of the wall is a bedroom closet.

Edit to add details

The shelves will start 18" from the edge of the shower, but they will be about 3.5' off the floor and will be replacing drywall (although it may be the green mold resistant stuff). I'm going to trim the back and sides with some thinner gauge pallet wood, and the shelves themselves will be made from thicker pallet slats. Behind the pallet wood, the studs and drywall will be painted dark brown. I'm thinking I will need to fill the cracks/nail holes in the wood to keep water out. White caulk would look interesting in the weathered wood. Will a full moisture barrier be needed behind the trim? Or can I just fill the cracks as suggested?


texts: I bought brand new Lennox HE natural gas furnace 3 years back. It has been running perfectly. My dealer recommends to do a preventive maintenance because of 3 years time span. I regularly change the filters (Only 3M brand). I live in Southern Ontario, Canada, where temp goes in negative double digits (around -25 C) in winter. Question is does it require any preventive maintenance and what kind of ?


texts: what is a "running board" for attaching NM cables perpenticular to floor joists in an unfinished basement?

texts:
I need to attach a few 10,12,14-ga NM cables perpendicular to the floor joists in my unfinished basement. They were originally attached to the sill plate. I am doing some insulating&weatherizing around the sill plate, so I need to move them out of the way. They are already crowded on the 1.5" of the plate, plus I might want to add more wiring later.
I may not just staple these NM cables to the bottom of the joists per NEC 334.15 "Exposed work"

(C) In Unﬁnished Basements and Crawl Spaces. Where
cable is run at angles with joists in unﬁnished basements and crawl
spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller than two
6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges of the
joists. Smaller cables shall be run either through bored holes in
joists or on running boards...."

I do not want to drill holes in my already weak 2x8 joists. It is unlikely I will ever want to finish the ceiling in that part of the basement. Conduit is too much trouble.
The simplest solution would be NEC-permitted "running boards" but I cannot find any description of what it is. May I use strips of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood, i.e. attach plywood to the bottom of the joists, and staple the cables to the bottom of plywood? Or should I use something sturdier like 2x4's?


texts: Splitting a hydronic zone. Zone valves or separate circulator pump?

texts: I had some plumbers take a look at my hydronic system to discuss splitting the single zone. They proposed to use separate zone pumps. In retrospect the other way to do this would be with zone valves. Any reason to prefer separate zone pumps and a lot of extra pipe?


texts: Why are my downlights constantly blowing?

texts:
I have a strip of 3 downlights in my living room, and I am constantly changing globes.

Usually two of the globes blow in the first day or two of use, but the third globe will last much longer (at least a month, or until we replace the blown globes).

The globes we are using are Mirabella GU10 240V 50W (240V is standard for Australia).

I've heard about other people having this problem - I've searched the web and found plenty of discussions but no definitive answers.

What might be causing the problem and how can I fix it?


texts: Do these look like good PVC exhaust and intake termination ends for a new tankless gas heater?

texts:
I just had a new tankless gas water heater installed, and it seems to be working well. But looking around here, other sites, and my own HVAC system, the terminating ends seem to come out further from the wall.
As per the photo, the down curved 2in pipe is the intake, and the short straight one is the exhaust. This seems like a good way?
Thank you.


texts: Contractor is installing a vinyl fence and posts but is not using any water with concrete. Is he doing it right?

texts: I hired a reputable local company to install 6 foot vinyl fence around my yard. Salesman was telling me how they would be using cement to hold the post in place. To my surprise I see the workers use dry cement mix with no water or sand or anything in the holes for poles. When asked about it, they saying that "water from the ground and rain" will activate the cement and its better to do it this way than pouring wet cement. Is this correct? I even called the company and they said that this is how they are doing it for everyone.


texts: My house has Exterior & Interior insulation. Would it be advisable to remove the internal?

texts:
A bit of background:
I've bought a house built in the 1960s which has been retrofitted with "bolt-on" insulation. On the inside, which was done first, there is a layer of plasterboard with insulation bolted to the brick and plaster walls - in places this was very shoddily done.

On the outside, there is cladding that has been bolted to the outside and rendered with some kind of spray-on roughcast - this was done much more professionally.

Having recently discovered the internal insulation (by trying and failing to fit a shelf) I'm considering removing the internal insulation to both increase space and allow me to more easily fix shelves etc to the walls.

Is this advisable given the external insulation, and does anyone have any data comparing heat loss with internal vs external vs none vs both?

Edit with more info:

Thanks for the answers so far, I will consider carefully before deciding whether to remove or not.

I'm in a wet & windy climate, between 1 and 15 degrees C year-round.
Wall construction is brick & plaster (I believe there is a cavity), then 3" thick polystyrene insulation on the outside.

According to another answer I read on here, internal insulation can have the effect of keeping the brick walls "cold" by reflecting the heat back into the room. This has the effect of stopping heat leaking out, but when the heating is off, it gets cold very quickly - this has been my experience so far. Considering I have external insulation, I could remove the internal, and lose a bit of heat to the walls but warm them up, helping to keep the rooms warmer for longer rather than warm / cold immediately. The external insulation will stop this heat loss being extreme.


texts:
I am tasked by my wife with installing a water purifier underneath my kitchen sink, and I came across this little toy on Amazon, it looks good but the faucet seemed extra to me, 'cause I have one and it's already in place (see the pictures below, it's connected to a heater installed in the under-sink cabinet).

I am wondering, if I can use the existing faucet and its infrastructure such as the pipe, etc, just replace heater with the purifier filter sets. Will it work? It seems a easier job for me than drilling a hole on the counter-top and doing an overhaul.


texts: How can I get rid of the weeds and moss growing between the paver stones in my driveway?

texts:
I used the extra strength roundup to kill the weeds.  Now I have brown weeds that are still rooted in the soil between the paver stones in my driveway.  I've been scraping the weeds and moss out with a screw driver but, darn, that's a tedious job.  I'm hesitant to power wash them away because I don't want to disrupt the sand and risk the paver stones coming lose.

If I were laying this driveway from scratch I'd use polymeric sand to prevent the weeds from popping up, but alas, the previous home owner was very shortsighted.


texts: Fuel gas CSST line allowed in plenum in Texas?

texts:
I recently visited a house. The host pointed out something interesting.

The furnace AC combo is in an indoor closet and is vertical upflow and sits on top of a filter base that sits on top of the pier and beam construction that’s had part of crawl space turned into a (return air) plenum by boxing in some of the space immediately under this closet. In other words, the furnace base is elevated compared to the house’s finished flooring. The plenum height is about 10-12 inches and the length and width are about 30x30. The grates covering the plenum openings are in the living room and interior hallway. The fuel (natural) gas line (CSST) is in the house’s crawl space. In one corner of the plenum, the CSST penetrates the floor of the plenum and continues through the plenum space, exiting through the plywood floor of the closet and the CSST terminates at a black iron tee that has a connection to more black iron that goes up into the attic and the other is connecting to a gas whip that then goes into the furnace.

Is this (CSST) fuel gas line allowed in the plenum?

If it’s not allowed in the plenum, as is, can the issue be addressed by:
 - sleeving (with schedule 40 PVC pipe) the fuel gas line for the full length i(t’s in the plenum, sealing the top and bottom of the sleeve, or,
 - reducing the plenum size by completely boxing in the corner through which the fuel gas line transits, with duct board or plywood or framing lumber, sealing all new joints with caulking?

For what it’s worth, the CSST is much newer than the house itself.


texts: Why doesn't the main breaker shut off power for house?

texts:
Location: California | United States

I'm certain I'll need a licensed electrician for this but wanted to get thoughts on what could be going on.

I recently noticed that power remains on in my house even when the main breaker is shut off.  The switch itself also doesn't "snap" to an off position -- it just slides from On to Off.

Any idea what could be going on here? Is it a faulty breaker? Or something more serious?

-M

For added clarification, here's a picture:


texts:
I had an an epoxy shower floor done and some of it went down the pipes. So now, my shower drains super super super slow. I do not have plastic pipes mine are still the hard metal (lost the name of it at the moment).
I need to fix mine so that it drains ASAP as I'm trying to refinance the house and need the master shower to work!!!
Appreciate any feedback as my home is on a concrete slab and I don't have the time or money to have new pipes installed.


texts: What are the benefits of setting electrical switches at the center of drywall seams?

texts: Im setting switches and wondering why I am seeing a lot of people set the switch at 48" to center of switch when in an 8' ceiling room that makes the switch go between two drywall sheets at the horizontal seam?  Is it easier to mud or easier to drywall with that? I am considering setting switch boxes 48" from floor to top of box to ensure that it lands only on one sheet but I can see how it would be difficult to keep the concaved joint flat when a switch box takes up the bottom half.


texts: How to test ground/neutral without outlets?

texts:
I use this simple plug device to detect any ground/neutral problems in outlets and if they're properly installed.

What can I use on open wires in an electrical receptacle to emulate the same test?


texts: What can I do about my new driveway that is higher than the garage floor?

texts:
I recently had a new asphalt driveway installed.

Due to the slope of the driveway they stopped about 2 1/2 feet from garage. This has created a problem with the end of driveway being 5 1/2 inches higher than the garage floor. This makes it extremely difficult to get motorcycles in and out.

Can anyone suggest a solution to fix this?  I don't want any boards or anything like that but something that looks like it would belong there.


texts: What kind of material is this (for a shower pan) and how to remove it

texts: I have a house built in 1962. I want to demo the bathroom and I'm seeing this patterned sort of cement looking material (perhaps it's granite?) that is the shower pan. Is this cement? And what is the best way to remove it. Photo is from side view of wall.


texts: How To Level Uneven Fireplace Hearth Concrete?

texts:
I am remodeling my fireplace. The hearth and mantle were granite/marble slabs (huge ones cut around the firebox). I removed them from the mantle and hearth with a sledge and chisel, expecting thinset or mastic to be used to attach the hearth stone to the subfloor. Unfortunately, I found this instead:

It's very hard and very uneven. I hardly dent it with a chisel or sledge.

In terms of unevenness, it is 1" from flush at the back (where it meets the wall) and 9/16" from flush at the front (where it meets the hardwood). It's also full of dips and divots and high points. It also appears to be set nearly against the hardwood at the edges, with no spacing for a joint or anything. This home is from the 1950's.

What's the best way to remove and/or level this surface out, so that it is a uniform 3/8" deep from flush?


texts: Replacing rusted metal front porch posts

texts:
My parents' front porch is surrounded by old medal posts that have undergone a lot of rust over the years, and this spring we noticed that at least one of the posts is no longer connected to the ground.

Here are some photos of the posts, as well as the rust damage and their current connection to the house at the top. They're currently attached to the solid concrete porch with bolts at the bottom and screwed into wood above. The screws are somewhat rusty, but holding on. The wood seems to be in very good condition, although it could use sanding & fresh paint.

They don't have a lot of money to spend on repairs, so I've offered to do all the labor for them. I'm willing to put in as much work as necessary to make sure their house is safe and stable for the rest of their lives. I just need to make sure I'm tackling it the right way.

I have several questions about how I should approach this, so I hope you'll all be able to give me some guidance.

Materials

The first concern is what to actually replace the posts with. Would a 4x4 treated post be adequate to replace each one of these? I'm not certain what type of metal the existing posts are, or how much weight they're carrying.

Most wood posts I'm finding specify they can carry 1500-2000 pounds, and my intention would be to replace them 1-for-1. (Currently there are 8 or 9 posts, depending on how you want to count the front corner.)

I've been thinking about something along the lines of these posts. Would that be adequate to replace the metal supports?

Update: Based on discussion in the comments, as well as taking a closer look at the pictures I took in the spring, I don't believe the existing posts are structural. So my concerns are really about technique, more than material. Any answers/advice to the thoughts below would be greatly appreciated.

Technique

The actual mechanics of replacing the posts are also a concern.

First, what's my best option to support the upper railing while I remove the old post and set the new one? I have access to post jacks via my father-in-law's work. Would that be ideal?

Also, how do I need to tie into the concrete? It seems to me that I'd be better off having some sort of rust-resistant metal bracket underneath the post, rather than have the wood sit directly on the concrete. What would that bracket be called? Is there another option that would be better?

At the top, I anticipate the wood posts (assuming we go that route) would sit directly between the solid blocks, which are a bit smaller than a 4x4. Can I just drive screws through the rail at an angle, or should I try to tie them directly into the 3x3 blocks? I do have a pocket hole jig, if that's the best way to go.


texts: How do I find and dispose of the dead animal that's presumably in my ceiling?

texts:
We're trying to track the origin of a very putrid smell in our condominium. We have a loft type home, which means two floors with a drywall ceiling between the first and second floor.

I first noticed a subtle odor in the kitchen, which is not an uncommon place to notice subtle odors. I checked the usual suspects:

Something in the bottom of the trash bin
Something rotting away behind an appliance
Something putrid stuck in the sink trap
Something rotting away in a cupboard

While we are guilty of all of the above and have removed the offending artifacts, the odor persists weeks later and grows in intensity. I realized that the odor seems the strongest from the stock room built under our stairway directly facing and adjacent to our kitchen, in which all ceiling joists for the downstairs level arrive unfinished.

I cleaned out the stockroom, expecting to find the remains of a mouse, but to my dismay there was only one partially dead insect that I quickly dispatched. The odor seems to be emanating from something existentially challenged somewhere in our ceiling.

I've done the following:

'sniff tested' the end of each joist where I can get access to do so. The smell seems to be coming from everywhere.
Used a flashlight to peer as far down each joist to joist channel as possible, I can't see anything that could be causing this.
Removed and replaced some lighting fixtures in in order to get a better view of what might be in the neighborhood
Sent a fish tape through every opening I can find hoping to reel in, or at least determine the location of the cause
Duct taped every opening between joists in the pantry area. One by one, eventually all.

The smell keeps getting worse.

What, beyond cutting holes in the ceiling all over my first floor can I do to pinpoint the source of this annoyance? Is there some sort of chemical test or something else I can get to narrow down the location and unfortunate source of this smell?


texts: Ballast TLE54 won't light 2 circline bulbs

texts:
Would you be able to help be debug a curious issue with a dual circline light fixture (12"/32W, 8"/22W) and a TLE54 ballast?

I needed to replace both bulbs.  Once I did that, flipping the switch to on results in the lights briefly lighting up for a fraction of a second, and then going dark.

By experimentation I found out that if I connect only one of the two lights, then flipping the switch to ON position will turn the light on and the light will remain on.  This is true for both the 12" and the 8" bulb: if I connect only one of them, no matter which one, the fixture works.  But the two won't stay on if connected at the same time to TLE54.

The ballast used to be able to drive both bulbs.  What is going on, and what do you think I can do to have a fixture in which both bulbs work?

Thanks!


texts: Use split for washing machine and tank water heater

texts:
I am planning to install an electrical water heater of 200L somewhere I already have a washing machine installed.
Therefore I am planning to put a simple Y-split (a very simple connector that transforms one outlet into 2) on the outlet of the cold water.
Is that a reasonable thing to do, or will I lose too much pressure in doing so?
EDIT : to add more details about the machines, the washing machine has 1/2’’ input and the water heater has 3/4’’ input.


texts: How do I wire a gcfi outlet in this situation?

texts: While attempting to rewire a duplex receptacle under my sink to power a garbage disposal and a dishwasher (half-switched), I ran into a problem. The existing receptacle only had 12-2 romex and therefore lacked the two separate hot wires necessary. Just as I was about to abandon all hope, I noticed a small hole in the paneling near the receptacle I was working on. Curious, I decided to open it up with my drill and I found a blue box with 5 black, 5 white, 5 bare wires tied off (photo below). Is it possible use these wires to install a gcfi outlet? If so, what's the best way to go about it? I should mention the home was built in 2011 and the kitchen outlets are all gcfi. Thank you for any advice you may offer. Apologies if this is a double post.


texts: Do I need to worry about random nameless HEPA filters containing asbestos?

texts:
I bought a cheap "DIY" air purifier with HEPA filter. I think it was this one > https://smartairfilters.com/cn/en/product/hepa-filter/
Then I started reading the history of HEPA filters and found out that they were made with asbestos back in the WW2-Cold war era (just like the particulate layer in gas mask filters).
Do I need to worry about this potentially containing asbestos? Or are modern HEPA filters definitely not made with asbestos?
I also bought some other cheap chinese-made HEPA filters, so the question is not just about that specific one I linked, but more in general.


texts: A baseboard was replaced in a bathroom remodel. The hot water from the boiler circles around the basement and pipes run out of it up to each room baseboard and an outgoing pipe returns water to the main for each room. The problem in the new bathroom...the incoming pipe is very hot but the outgoing near the bleeder is cold.  When I open the bleeder, after a few minutes the water from the bleeder becomes hot and so does the outgoing pipe.  After I close the bleeder, after a few minutes, the outgoing pipe is cold again.  What can be the problem?


texts: What could be causing a dripping noise in the ceiling?

texts: There is a dripping noise coming from the vent in the ceiling, but no drip has been detected.  It comes and goes.  We are still using air conditioning in Louisiana.  Could it be the result of cycling with the ac unit?


texts: Power source in fixture. Two 3-way switches. How do I get constant hot to ceiling fan and work the light with both switches.


texts:
I have an attached garage I use as a workshop, and I'd like to insulate it since I plan on running water and sewer lines into the garage for a utility sink*. Right now, the garage is just studs and exterior wall. I don't plan on drywalling this garage. The ceiling is drywalled, since there is a bedroom above the garage.

I was thinking of just using fiberglass batt insulation. Would that be sufficient? If not, what is the best way to do this?

Edit: This house is located in Denver, CO. We get both warm summers and cold winters, but not a ton of humidity.

*Please note, I am going to have a shutoff valve and nipple drain on the line inside of the heated portion of the house. I don't plan on having this water line charged unless I need water in the shop.


texts:
I have been thinking about adhesion recently and, more specifically, have been thinking about adhesion to porous surfaces. I am a big fan of being able to adhere things together, on flat surfaces, with industrial strength adhesive. What are some of your ideas of how to go about adhering a flat surface to a porous one, or a porous surface to a porous surface? I have thought about the following ideas:

Adhesive foam that fills in the gaps of the porous surface, although this is difficult to remove and also will result in significant tension at the junction.
Simple adhering double sided tape that is less firm than typical tape, allowing it to slightly adhere to the insides of pores.
Using some substance to fill in a porous space, that results in a more flat space to use typical adhesion on.
What are some of your ideas? I'm thinking about the following example (My question): You want to mount something to a porous material rooftop (i.e. asphalt) but you are limited in the fact that the object is heavy and you cannot pierce the rooftop, how would you go about doing this?

Thanks!


texts: Dishwasher Power Cord has Two White Wires. Isn't the wide one neutral?

texts:
A contractor hooked up our dishwasher this way (see image), but I believe it's wrong. The dishwasher's hot (black) and neutral (white) wires are the ones going into each wire nut from the left side. The power cord he used has two white wires, though, one of which is wider than the other. Those are going into each wire nut from the right side.

As you can see, he connected that wider white wire to the black hot wire. Isn't that wider one the neutral wire? If so, that would mean those two wires coming from the power cord should be switched! Sorry if this is a dumb question. I don't know much about electrical, but I'm suspicious about this.

Thanks


texts: Difference between E-Trip circuit breaker and Mechanical Trip breaker

texts:
Trying to order a 19" distribution breaker panel.

All small loads, (3A..7A) but I am being asked do I want Mechanical trip or E-Trip bullet breakers. The description on their quotes say Electro-Mechanical or Mid-Trip.

On a high level, what's the difference between the two?


texts: Should I be concerned about fridge/freezer airflow?

texts:
We just recently had the following counter/cabinet system put into our basement family room.  After everything was done, I started to get concerned about airflow.  The enclosure was built in such a way that I can easily slide the fridge (left) and the freezer (right) in and out to service.  I noticed after a few days of running that the sides of the fridge get extremely hot at times but is relatively cool at others.  The freezer seems to not have any heat on the sides at all though.

Would it be wise to install some type of ventilation system?  I wouldn't be able to vent outdoors since the wall this is against is an exterior basement wall but I was thinking of possibly using some type of exhaust fan system (I found a couple that are typically used to ventilate entertainment systems that hold high-heat gaming consoles and equipment) to run through the kick board layer under the cabinets and out the sides into the room.

Most people I asked say "don't worry about it, it's fine" but I want to know for sure.  I am not as much worried about limiting the lifespan of the appliances as I am about safety.  Could this cause a fire or am I just being paranoid?


texts: is it ok to peel paper from faced fiberglass batt insulation?

texts:
An above grade portion (wood framing) of my basement walls (in unfinished furnace room) is currently insulated with faced R19 fiberglass batts .  It is very drafty because the batts dont fit perfectly and the wall is not air sealed behind the insulation. I also understand that it is supposed to be covered with drywall to prevent combustion.

I am undertaking a diy project to correctly air seal it and reinsulate it.  The approach i have in mind is to glue rigid foam board to the wall, and use great stuff to fill around it.  Then i want to reapply the fiberglass on top of the foam board.

I have read that the paper should be removed to prevent a double vapor barrier since the foam board will be air sealed up against the wall. Is it ok /necessary to remove the paper from the fiberglass batts and leave it exposed in the furnace room after doing the air sealing as above?  Does this present a hazard?  Is it better to replace the fiberglass insulation with something else assuming i dont want to drywall my furnace room?

Thanks

i have attached a (bad) photo of what the walls look like right now:


texts: Run power supply wire through garage for security camera

texts:
I need to run thin power supply wire that came with security camera through garage. I have bricks in front upper portion of garage but there is little garage eaves where I can mount the camera. I also see rubber strips running across and down the garage outside against which door sealed when closed. Could any one please help what is the best way to run wire without doing too much effort. Please refer to pictures for inside and outside of garage corner where I want to install camera. Thanks
Garage door


texts: Is it ok for a bathroom sink vent to go up and come back down over an obstacle?

texts:
I think this question has been asked before but I can't quite find exactly my situation.
I'm pretty sure this isn't to code, either, except the IPC code section 905.2 apparently says

All vent and branch vent pipes shall be so graded and connected as to
drain back to the drainage pipe by gravity.

which this arrangement arguably does have.
I have a bathroom in an old (1928) home. I am gutting it and I want to reuse the existing stack vent. But I'm replacing all other plumbing, including the main part of the stack. I was going to cut the old stack at the bottom of the vent and guide the new stack into the old vent.
Old stack is 4" cast iron. So is the old stack vent.
The new shower drain and toilet will use the stack vent directly.
However, to make use of the old vent for the sink, which is going to be on the opposite wall to the old vent stack, I'd have to route the vent pipe up and over the steep roof gable, and back down.
I think the answer is going to be "create a new vent for the sink and poke it through the roof" -- and I'm ok with that. But I did just get this roof replaced 3 years ago and I'd hate to poke a hole in it if I didn't have to.
Images for clarity
Old vent stack -- black cast iron going up and to the left.

Proposed vent including question area (in dashed red oval)

Detail showing the steepness of the roof angle


texts: Should I replace my magnetron? Is there anything else upstream of the mode stirrer?

texts:
I have a very nice over-the-range microwave that died after 6 years of use (or after 8 months of renting to a very messy person).  To replace with the same model used would be cost over $250, thus I decided to trouble shoot it.
If i place a cup of water in the microwave everything seems to work, but the water does not get hot.
I verified the mode stirrer rotates freely, and that it's motor actively turns when the microwave is on.  The inside of the wave-guide, the motherboard, and the magnetron are  surprisingly clean given the state the rest of device was in.
Because the magnetron is the most expensive part in the microwave, I'm a bit hesitant to order one and try swapping it out.
Are their any other parts besides the mode stirrer I should consider testing / replacing before replacing the magnetron?


texts: Where can I get a box a ceiling fan light?

texts:
Does anyone know where I can get a box for a ceiling fan light. I have a ceiling fan with a light but would like to replace the light with a ceiling lamp I have. The current box won't work because there are 3 lamps sticking out the sides and I need just one hole on the bottom.

The fan and light are both controlled with one wall switch and each are controlled a separate pull cord. I know this is unusual but I have decades of experience in unusual and can always revert it. 8 also know that I can't just slap the lamp onto the bottom of the fan.

Thanks for your help.


texts: Choosing the cutting length of a router bit

texts:
I'm trying to decide how long the cutting edge on a pattern router bit should be.  I'm trimming a 2-by (1-1/2" actual) with a pattern / template on top, and I'm having a hard time finding a 1-1/2" (cutting) length bit.  I found a 2" length.  Is there a reason I shouldn't just use the 2" length?  I can't find any technical information about selecting the appropriate length, or whether I should avoid a longer length.
P.S. I'm aware of the stability considerations with shank diameter; that's not what this question is about.  The 2" length bit has a 1/2" dia shank.


texts: Drilling holes behind existing walls/ceilings

texts:
We are remodeling a 1914 house, and want to keep damage to the walls and ceiling to a minimum.  We had to take a few walls down already, and as a result have the ability to drill new holes behind the existing wall/ceiling.

We would like to drill through 3 to 4 joists without removing the ceiling for new wiring.

The span of the 3-4 joists is about 5 feet, and we have about a foot worth of space to fit this 5 foot spade bit plus the drill.

We were thinking about using extension bars to incrementally get the spade bit across.  The only issue that I can think about is how would we keep the spade bit straight.

Would this be a "hope it works" kind of situation, or is there a better way of doing it?


texts: Are SDS drills metric, standard or all the same?

texts:
Can I buy SDS drills (or à drill machine) in the USA and use it with an European bought machine (or drills)?
Is the SDS "connection" the same in Europe as it is in the US?

Sorry for the language, I hope you understand


texts: Material for stud cavity cold air return

texts: I'm totally aware of the arguments for and against stud cavity air returns so I don't need opinions on that, but I do need an idea of the best material for lining the outside of the stud cavity with. Is sheet metal the only option or is there something else you can use?


texts: Electric Garage heater contactor failure

texts:
I own a Fahrenheat FUH724 (7500 watts) electric heater for my 2 car, uninsulated garage. I installed this unit 12/2017 along with a Nest thermostat. An Aube rc840t-240 relay was used to step down the 220v to 24v for the Thermostat to properly work and all appeared to work properly until about 3 months later when I began to experience malfunctions and this is where I need the collective help from an informed community found here.

Specs:

40A dedicated circuit breaker
8awg wire.

The electrical connections to the contactor became the point of failure. The OEM wires within the unit were overheating, failed and ultimately broke off and the internals of the contactor revealed signs of malfunction. I contacted the manufacturer, replaced the defect wires, and contactor also checked for loose connections throughout. All seemed acceptable. 4 weeks later, same failure points.

I contacted the manufacturer again and they sent me a replacement and I have yet to install.
Could the Aube relay be causing this much heat buildup within the wiring to cause the malfunction?
While trying to diagnose the problem, I took temp readings at various connection points with and without the relay in place and the temp at those points didn't change so I'm not sure that is the root of the problem.

I'm also questioning whether or not I may need supply wire exceeding 90c?

Sorry for the long-winded question but I felt it was important to describe the problem with all detail i've experienced. If i've left out any important info please ask away.

See attached picture for installation.


texts: I recently moved into a home that has a water run off from rains etc problem that was not evident when purchasing. We have graded the rear yard and put in catch basins and tiles to keep water from around the home.  The garage floor always feels damp and if the humidity is high it is really slick. I intend to try to clean the floor to clean up mold from where the water has run through after a hard rain. The garage floor is stained black which I believe is mold buildup. I do not know how to find out if there is still a water pool under the slab that causes the slick floor.  The interior of the house seems fine.  House floor is several inches higher than the garage floor. Is there someone I can call to check this and/or correct this? Since we have taken care of the drainage problem will the water all eventually evaporate?


texts: Would it be appropriate to sand a floor between coats of poly with a handheld orbital sander?

texts:
Very closely related: How should I sand before the final coat of polyurethane?

However, I'm not asking for a how-to or which is the preferred tool/method but rather one specific tool and if it's an "ok" approach to take.

Assuming I already owned a 5" random orbital sander (similar to below example image), would it be realistic to use it with 220+ grit sandpaper rather than a "full-fledged" floor buffer, at least to the level where I can use it between a few coats of poly and still achieve a good finish on the final coat?
I'm not really asking if it's necessarily  practical, but more as a cost saver while also being able to achieve a decent result (plus I don't have the level of experience with the larger equipment as I'd like/be comfortable with).

From what I've been reading, poly doesn't seem to need a whole lot of intense sanding between layers and just a little roughing up for subsequent layers (by all means correct my if I'm wrong here - would rather be berated online than ruin a perfectly good floor).

I know it'll take longer simply due to size, but I'm only looking at a couple hundred square feet anyway, nothing overly large.


texts: Need to split water line behind refrigerator to add an espresso machine

texts:
Just a quick explanation of what I'm trying to do. I'm not a plumber by any means, but I'd like to try to get this done on my own.

I have an espresso machine on the counter next to my fridge. I want to plumb it in, so I bought an Everpure ESO6 filter:

Also the Everpure QL3B Filter Head:

This will go under my cabinet, so I'll be drilling a hole on the side with a spade bit in which the braided hoses for both the espresso machine and to the water source will go through.

Here's how everything looks connected:

The problem I'm having now is how I get the tee connected to the water source. Here is my water source, which currently has the refrigerator connected to it (1/4"):

My question is: How should I tee this? I bought a tee that's 1/4" outside diameter (OD), but the problem (as I was told by a Home Depot employee) is that all ends are male. But couldn't I just connect a 1/4" braided hose to the water line, then into the tee, then plug the line to the filter and the line to the fridge, and that would be it?

I'm also wondering if I actually need a pressure regulator. My manual says if line pressure exceeds 5 bars (~70psi) then I'd need it.


texts:
I'm replacing an old thermostat with a slightly newer thermostat. It's connected to a heat pump and the old wiring (picture attached) was:
White = W2
Yellow = Y
Brown = O/B
Red = R
Green = G
Blue = C

The new thermostat doesn't have a C connection (see picture) so I'm not sure what to do with the wire. Note that the heat pump designations are on the outside edge of the thermostat.

How do I wire the new thermostat? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Why is a steel security door safe if they can break the glass, slide their hand in, and unlock the door?

texts:
OK I had a hard time thinking of a good title but here's the gist of the problem/concern I have which I can't find an answer to anywhere online. Please note that this is a very specific but common circumstance so please read every detail of the post.

Many front doors have glass. That glass can be knocked in or shattered. From there the burglar can either squeeze through the hole where the glass once was, if it's a large enough hole, or the burglar can slide his or her hand in and unlock the door giving them access to the house. I am affected by this scenario because I have a wooden door with a large glass oval in the center and I don't feel safe with it.

I've been looking at steel door cages and steel window cages (since I don't technically need to cage the entire door I just need to cage the window part of the door). You can find examples here, http://www.homedepot.com/b/Doors-Windows-Doors-Security-Doors/N-5yc1vZaqqe.

The Problem:

Now yes, these steel cages will prevent the burglar from knocking out the glass and squeezing through the hole but it will still not prevent the burglar from knocking out the glass and sliding his or her hand through one of the gaps in the steel cage and unlocking the door. I can't imagine that I'm the first one to think of that flaw so what is the answer to that problem? Ultimately I'm looking for any suggestions someone may have. I understand that I could just buy a new door without any glass but that's my last resort because I love the look of having glass and I like the fact that it brings in more sun light. I also understand that I could get a mesh design steel cage but I honestly think that would look horrible and it would not match the neighborhood I live in. I'm actually in a very nice neighborhood and the house is pretty nice so I probably have no reason to be this secure but I feel like you can never be too safe.

Thanks to Bib's answer below I just purchased two of these Schlage B62621 Distressed Nickel B-Series Double Cylinder Grade 1 Deadbolt from the B-Series B62 from Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L1UD4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00. I like this solution because it's simple and all I have to do is replace the existing Deadlock Bolt. I am a bit concerned about fire safety e.g., if there is a fire and I cannot find the key I will have to jump out the window from the second floor. I decided however that I can screw in a 12 inch chain to the wall and pin the other end to the key. This will ensure that the key is always present but that it's far enough away so that even if the glass is busted in the intruder will not be able to reach it.

I'm still open to other solutions and I think more solutions will benefit the community so please share!


texts:
I’m wanting to remove this post but not sure if it’s load bearing. Can someone please help?

Thanks!


texts: I have CITY water. When I turn on my garden hose I have plenty of pressure, but after a few seconds the pressure drops substantially only outside

texts: I turn on my garden hose and I have plenty of pressure for about 15 seconds, then it drops substantially.  I have city water and I don't experience this in the house.  Any ideas?


texts: Gas Forced Hot Air seems to be blowing extremely hot air

texts: Gas forced hot air. The floor registers are hot to the touch after 6 minutes heat running, if left hand on register would burn quickly. Don't remember it being this hot before.


texts: Microwave not heating - replaced magnetron; now what?

texts:
We've got a over-range microwave that's part of our 4 appliance set, so I'm not particularly interested in replacing it. It previously had an issue where it was buzzing very loud and not heating and I replaced the magentron and that fixed that issue.

Over the weekend it started behaving the same way (loud buzzing, no heat), so I ordered a new magnetron and replaced it last night. Now the loud buzzing is gone, but still no heat. I get the hum that I assume is related to the fan activity, but the slightly louder hum that goes along with heating is missing (I'm inferring a little here - what I hear all the time now is the sound that I get when I'm running it at less than full power and it's not in the heating cycle - I never hear the sound that I used to get when running at less than full power and it was heating).

Any clues on how I should troubleshoot, what other component might be bad, and whether or not the magnetron was bad in the first place?


texts:
I had some spare MDF lying around, and didn't have much to do with it. We needed somewhere to shove our grill and gardening tools, so a couple of screws later I now have a reasonably unattractive MDF shed, built as a 3:4 triangle to fit under the stairs of the apartment above us.

I just realized that this thing may not hold up the best in weather. What's the proper sealing method -- polyurethane, epoxy, ... -- to keep MDF well-formed in the elements? This thing shouldn't be getting all that wet (since it's going to be under the neighbors' stairs, which have open backs) but it will be dripped on regularly. Also, I live in LA, so humidity isn't really a concern either.


texts: Is Armored (BX) cable considered to be protected from damage?

texts:
I want to install an outlet on my unfinished basement wall. I am assuming that it would fall under NFPA 70 300.4 as needing protection from physical damage.
Is Armored (BX) cable considered to be protected from physical damage in this case?


texts: My wired doorbell started making a "pop" sound every 15 seconds about 10 days ago. The sound is coming from the speaker. I've checked all of the connections and nothing is loose. The noise occurs even when the wiring from the button to the chime is disconnected. The unit is 18 years old. Any help would be appreciated.  I have a new chime box connected.


texts:
My Lamosa Toilet tank SAHARA 411, 17"X8" needs to be replaced.  Can't find another Sahara 411 tank.
Can I replace this tank with a Lamosa 16"x8" SASA
Vortens Glacier Bay 412 Tank?
If not, what other toilet tank companies would fit on the Lamosa toilet?
I look forward to hearing from you.


texts: Will this shower set work as a replacement in my tub?

texts:
Hi I bought a new tub and shower set and want to replace the existing ones.

I heard that for 'Shower Faucet Trim Plate and Handle', the new size/model needs to match with the current size/model. I am not sure the ones I bought would match the existing ones. Can someone help take a look? Thanks!


texts: Were gfci's required in detached garage built in 2003?

texts: Need info if gfci's were required in detached garage built in 2003.


texts: What is the correct type of anchor bolt for attaching a sill plate to a slab once the concrete is dry?

texts: If you need to install additional anchor bolts after the concrete has cured (and thus can no longer install traditional J bolts), what is the correct type of fastener that can be installed into dry concrete and is IRC 2012 compliant?


texts: how can I kill Insects that are boring holes in concrete

texts: I have insects that are boring holes in my driveway and garage floor.  Are there any remedies that would kill Them?


texts: heat pump condenser fan not running in winter

texts:
it is -5 degrees outside. Our thermostat is set at 70 degrees and the house heat is 58 degrees. the fan blade on the unit outside is not moving. the hvac system inside has a sticker on the unit. the empty box says unit has electric resistance. the checked box says 'may install' electric resistance. I see no mention of auxillary heat on the thermostat. Last summer hvac man was here and he said our thermostat is the correct one for the system.
is everything ok and we just need an auxillary heat, or is something broken?


texts: Lot grading, water percolation & french drain on the property line along the fence..What is a correct drainage for this property?

texts:
I am now trying to understand if the current water drainage on my lot is wrong. The previous owner excavated the soil around the house and he probably spread the soil around the house in the backyard.
Also, my neighbor's property is on a higher grounds and I suspect his drainage is not 100% fair.
Below you have a representation of the rear side of the house, the left side house is mine.
The purple line is the general slope of the terrain, as mentioned my neighbor's house is on grounds slightly higher than mine.
The blue and brown lines show the backyard general grading. The 8' strip that you see along my patio is not sloped correctly and I intend to fix that.
The patio drains towards the red spot where I intend to install a catch basin and I plan to drain that to a dry well south east of that corner.

Problems

the yellow line on my neighbor's garage is a gutter that he extended on the soil and that currently drains on his property on the paved walkway that you see there
by design both properties seem to drain the water toward the property line and that should at least affect the fence. As a matter of fact one of the poles is completely cut (rotten) at the base
I believe that under the soil (subgrade) the water moves towards my house anyway due to the general slope of the terrain

Questions:

Looking at the measurements of the space between the garages do you think that the water that comes out of his gutter (yellow on the figure) will infiltrate the soil and move laterally towards my property and my garage? Just next to the garage the former owner built a small parking lot, paved with precast concrete blocks and I suspect that the base of that parking spot will suck all the water that makes it to it. Am I too worried about this?
Looking over the fence at my neighbor's patio one can easily see that when he built that he accentuated the slope and that now all that water drains toward the fence. I think that the only remedy here is to build a french drain along the fence which I should drain in the dry well that is in the plans for the patio. Is this a correct plan? Will this french drain affect the fence in any way?
Is the distance between the fence and my house long enough to keep my house safe from that water which probably collects underground on the property line? (not sure where it goes from there).


texts:
In the en-suite bathroom, there is a switch (1 of 3) that controls the main overhead light and the outlet. Is there anyway to get the outlet to have constant power? Or is this one of those jobs that are easier said than done???

The house was built in 1978, I currently do not have pictures but could easily provide some this evening.

Yes, this question is similar but with mine being a bathroom I would also like to know if there is anything else I should be aware of (e.g. adding a GFCI outlet)???


texts: Invisible mounting hardware for a particular kind of wall unit

texts:
I'm looking to build my own version of this wall unit: https://retrorenovation.com/2012/05/10/barzilay-multispan-vertical-storage-system-valuable-scandinavian-modern-wall-unit-design/

I think I know how I'm going to do the cabinets and the shelving, but the one thing that I can't figure out is how to mount the top of the large wood L-shaped beams flush to the wall with no hardware showing, and no pocket holes.

Well, that's not accurate. I'd like to use a mount kind of like how the rear view mirror of your car mounts to the windshield: that sort of U shaped one where the mirror slides down onto another U shaped piece, but I have no idea what that kind of mount is called. I feel like this would be the best solution to prevent lateral movement of the brackets.

So if you know what that kind of mount is called or if you know of a better way to mount this thing, let me know.


texts:
I am considering including a hydronic (Pex tubing) radiant heat system in my new house (still in the planning phase).  I have done some reading/resaerch...here was a straight-forward, mercifully direct and short, non-“buy me!” write-up:  https://www.everything-about-concrete.com/concrete-floor-heating.html
My main take-a-ways/questions:
-- Is a radiant floor heating system and a traditional HVAC/furnace system necessarily duplicative or overkill?  Or can be considered supplemental to each other.
-- “Properly locating the manifold”…I am not sure of the implications of “properly locating.”  Can't just be anywhere convenient in the garage, for instance, as long as a hot water line is available?
-- Shocked (as usual) about the cost per sq foot estimates…it is just Pex, zip ties, some basic labor additional for each square foot; the basic planning/layout and manifold/control unit are up-front single costs amortized (or whatever word) over the whole covered area.  Am I missing something?
-- I gotta wonder what the “catastrophe” rate is, either at install time (e.g. after the slab is poured) or during the life of the home (e.g. a severe crack in foundation splits Pex; inferior Pex used and it starts to leak)?
-- “Radiant floor heating usually lasts around 20-35 years”…huh?  Important to know if this means the manifold/controller (easily replaced) or the Pex system itself?


texts: Is there such thing as automatic hot cold water mixing valve?

texts:
We have a shower that is being used multiple times throughout the day. For each use the target temperature is always ~30C. Unfortunately, the water in hot water pipe tends to cool down if someone was not using shower for longer time. If this happens, then the next person using the shower have to either:

start at 100% hot water and 0% cold water. And drain the cooled down water from pipes. Only then ramp up intake of cold water. OR
leave the shower to previous setting and drain/waste even more water because cold intake would be delivering water while the hot water temperature is still ramping up.

I was wondering if there is a valve, that I could preset to specific target temperature and it would automatically intake only hot water until the egress water temperature reaches the target temperature. Once target temperature reached, then it would start to mix the cold water so that the egress water temperature would not go over the preset temperature. How is such valve called in English?

Also, it may be a big problem for us if the temperature ever gets too hot. If such valve exists is it fool proof not to go over the target temperature?

The main goal here is to save water and reduce time that person has to wait in the shower for target temperature to be reached. While not mandatory, perhaps a digital screen with two buttons plus and minus to fine tune temperature would be a great plus too.


texts: Do hot circuit breakers indicate a problem?

texts: I have a main 100amp breaker panel.  The two 30A breakers going to the dryer are getting around 125 degrees Fahrenheit when I tested them with a temperature sensor and about 3 or 4 adjacent breakers are getting warm.  Is this just an indication of the breakers getting old?  Or is it normal for a dryer breaker to get this hot?


texts: Venting a double kitchen sink (converting from an S trap to a P trap with AAV in a tight space)

texts:
I'm replacing my double kitchen sink and replacing an S trap with a P trap.  There is no vent nearby that I can tie into easily, so I'm going with an under sink AAV.  Issue is, I don't have much space between the current s trap and where the drain ties into (through the floor):

Here are some ideas I had to fit a P trap and AAV on here:

I ran out of parts, but my idea is to use 90 degree elbows to circle back to the drain in the floor, and use another 90 pointed down or a j bend to get it into the drain.

Would that solution work without the risk of code violations?

Or would this configuration work better?

Thank you for the advice!


texts: Debris from Roof causing Gutters to clog

texts:
I just recently replaced the gutters on the entire property and also installed a mesh over them to keep debris out of the gutters. However, I noticed that it was still overflowing during a recent thunderstorm.
Upon closer inspection, it appears that some tree debris from the roof is running through the roof troughs and collecting in the gutter corners (mitres) thereby impeding the flow of water.

Is there an effective way to prevent this run-in from the roof on to the gutter, stopping short of just cutting off the trees on the property?

I have included pictures with the problem areas highlighted. Again, these gutters are less than 3 weeks old and are 6 inches wide.


texts: Why do type 2 SPD’s* require overcurrent protection (*load side, mains, Surge Protection Devices)

texts:
Bought a house built in the 1970’s in a 1970’s neighborhood. It has a 200AMP main panel. A serviceman replacing 1 of the 2 mainboards in the refrigerator suggested that I install an SPD inline in each circuit that has electronics because he’s had very many calls to replace electronics in this locale due to many transient spikes and power surges. He considers our power supply “dirty”.

It would be easy to add an SPD to the service panel. It’s possible with some rearranging to add (depending on model) the 220V 20, 30 or 50AMP breaker required to install a Type 2 SPD that will cover the whole house. I’m curious why the device requires this overcurrent protection.  Thanks.


texts: What kind of gravel should I use to pave over dirt and grass?

texts:
I want to "pave" a path from our deck steps to a fence gate, and about 200 square feet under the deck, with gravel.  Currently these areas are dirt and grass.

Two things I want to consider are

a) avoiding weeds and grass growing in/through it, and

b) I'd like to be able to blow leaves off of it in the Fall (and not have very many leaves get stuck and become very difficult to blow away).

What kind of gravel should I use?


texts: Quarter turn connection for plastic tubes -- Design idea request

texts:
I'm developing a 3d project using AutoCAD 2013 and I would like to request ideas for a specific problem. It is not for a commercial project.

It is about how to connect two hollow plastic pipes using a "quarter turn" design.

The only thing that'll run inside them is non-pressurized water.

Is there a way to implement a locking mechanism inside the thickness of the pipes?

All measurements are available next to the picture, in millimeters.

The goal would be to:
-- Connect them without using any tools
-- Be easy to connect and disconnect
-- Have no water leakage outside of the pipes
-- Have a clean design (nothing hanging from the inside or from the outside)
-- Have the locking mechanism implemented inside the thickness of the pipes, at their extremities, 10mm max width, no plastic doohickey on the outside to lock or unlock

I keep trying to find a way to implement the following design but i'm just not visualizing in my mind how the mechanism would work.

http://www.emka.com/in_en/quarter-turns/standard/plastic-quarter-turn/

-- Picture:

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Thiago.


texts: Sleeve anchors not going all the way in?

texts:
I bought some 3/8" x 3" sleeve anchors for a fence i'm installing. This is very hard concrete from a building ledge; the holes cannot be drilled with a regular hammer drill.

So we drilled 3" holes for these sleeve anchors, and before installing them I double-checked to make sure that the hole depth was correct.

I start hammering it so that it goes in, but after a certain point, it doesn't move anymore. From the sound of the hammering, I know the anchor sleeve won't budge.

Why is this happening and what can I do so that it doesn't happen again?

The problem is that there's no way to remove it.

This is what it looks like. There's about an inch there, and I know for a fact that the hole is 3" deep:


texts: should i remove hinges from door and door frame before painting

texts:
I had brand new pre-primed unpainted french doors installed and now I have to paint them (also need to paint the new door frame).  I plan to remove the doors from the door frame as well as remove the door knob but is it best practice to also remove the hinges from the door and frame before painting?
My concern is it not screwing back in cleanly once Im ready to put the hinges back on.


texts: When you walk in our bathroom on the tiles with high heels, it puts a hole in the tile. It seems likely the tiles were not meant to be for floor. Regardless, we'd like to find some way to fill in the holes with either plaster or something otherwise. What would be best to use?


texts: What components do I need to finish my shower installation?

texts: Soooo I replaced the rough in valves for my shower ( based on some suggestions here actually ). This is the set that I purchased. Now that it's installed, I'm noticing that the stems are shorter than the old one by about an inch. I'm also super confused about what kind of trim kit I need. Was looking at something like this but it seems to have both valve stems and handles, and I really don't need the stems ( right ? ). Then there is something like this but it includes the whole build kit. So I'm super confused about what I need to finish this rough in kit.


texts: Is it possible that I could have a 240V circuit with no circuit breaker?

texts:
Is it possible to put in an electrical circuit without any way to interrupt the circuit?

I tried to work on a 240V outlet, and it wasn't marked in the breaker box. I threw every breaker, and that outlet remained hot.  For that matter, there's not a master breaker, either.


texts:
I have an old Lennox (gas heat only) thermostat. There are 3 wires coming from the wall. Black, yellow and a light blue color (could be a faded green or an old dirty white).
The thermostat wouldn't click on, so I opened it and saw that the black and blue color. I think they are supposed to be connected to the same screw. Any ideas?

Lennox T99
catalog# A100A109 (?)
Serial# J9C


texts: What should I do with an unused C wire when installing a thermostat?

texts: Replacing a Carrier programmable with a Honeywell RTH6350D1000. Carrier had blue/gray wire in the C connector. Honeywell does not have a C connector. In install book "Advanced" wiring it says to ignore the c wire.


texts: Should all Federal Pacific panels be replaced?

texts:
I understand that Federal Panel Stab Lok breakers have the potential for becoming stuck, overheating, and starting fires.  My home has a Federal Pacific panel but no outward markings of being a Stab Lok model, the breakers cannot be identified as I haven't opened the panel cover yet.

My question is whether Federal Pacific products, as a whole, should be proactively replaced.  Does having a Federal Pacific panel mean that I certainly have FP breakers as well?