texts:
We recently moved into a new home and have been blessed with sloppy plumbing and high water pressure. The whole home is copper and since moving we have had 3 leaks in various joints. I'm no expert but I can clearly see poor soldering, overfilled joints, burnt flux, and poor clean with flux everywhere, etc...

Given the above I want to install a "smart" valve, I bought a Phyn Plus for the job. Originally, I had thought the line coming into the home was copper but after taking things apart I found what looks like PEX with an interesting PVC coupler to copper with newish looking crimped couplings. There is also no Pressure Reducing Valve so I will need to add one. At this point I'm wondering what scope of work I should ask the plumber for.

I think these are the problems:
A) No PRV. I'd also like a pressure gauge to see what the pressure is on both sides of the valve. Worthwhile?
B) Within the first few feet of pipe into the house I already have multiple couplers and nothing is strapped down. I'm thinking I could clean that up.
C) Would it be worth going from the incoming PEX to my own new Uponor PEX run. That PVC coupler looks super sketch. This would be a good start towards repiping the house down the road.

Any thoughts would be great!


texts: Are these tools appropriate for a roofing project?

texts:
Okay so I have a 2 story house about 30 feet high and was wondering if this set up will work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-Gal-175-psi-Quiet-Portable-Air-Compressor-C201H/206189626

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bostitch-21-Degree-Industrial-Round-Head-Framing-Nailer-F21PL/100465406

I have quiet a lot of shingles to replace and would like for the power tool to run continuously. I'm just curious if it will work since the air compressor doesn't meet the SCFM requirement for the power tool i want to use. The air hose I want to use will be a 3-8-in-x-50-ft-F5-Male-x-Male-Fittings-Hose.

Will this work? If not can anyone please recommend the air compressor and hose i will need to run this power tool continuously.


texts: Where can I find Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS's)?

texts: Are there government websites where I can view MSDS's? Or do I need to go to the manufacturer's website or make a request to the manufacturer for the MSDS's?


texts: Getting new drywall panels aligned to older ones on a wall

texts: I'm in a 1970 house where the drywall was both nailed and glued to the studs. Whenever I have to replace a panel that runs up against an existing one I have the problem that the extra glue depth, plus the age and years of paint on the old panels, means that the new panel is maybe 2 or 3mm less deep than the old one. Attempting to feather this out seems crazy. Putting something like liquid nails down the back seems wacky as it would require a ton of glue to eventually dry out to 3mm thick and I'm sure all I'd end up with is a lot of popped screw heads over time. Shims maybe... Or do I just resign myself to having to skim 3mm of compound on every board? That feels like too much to be the right solution.


texts:
I own an old house (50s) for which the electrical is outdated (no ground, etc), so I am in the process of rewiring the whole house. The attic has tons of insulation (loose insulation atop fiberglass batts, etc), and below the insulation often it has plywood boards (subfloor). Navigating and finding anything through all this insulation is a real pain and time consuming.

Since much of the wire will be routed onto the top of the plywood (and not beside the joists at 1 1/4" from their edges) once I run the wires parallel to the joists (joists are below plywood subfloor) I would imagine that the wire would need to be protected by a conduit or wood strips; so can one use emt conduit instead of wood strips on top of the attic subfloor and could the conduit be attached to the attic subfloor wherein the wires would run (and in case someone would go the attic he/she could step on the conduits)? It would be romex (sometimes thhn) inside the conduit (and the conduit would be derated to accommodate the nm-b wiring).

By the way, the attic is accessible; and the conduit seems a much better option due to make it easier to upgrade and change the wires in the future.


texts: How can I prevent a bathroom fan from vibrating?

texts: I am replacing the ventilation fan in our master bathroom this weekend.  The previous one (about 12 years old) developed such a vibration over time that it managed to undo the bolt holding the glass cover on, causing it to fall and shatter.  I haven't removed the fan yet, but it appears to be securely fastened either to the joists or to a mounting kit (it's an 8 inch box, and I'm guessing the joists are farther than that), so I don't think it's just a matter of the whole thing coming loose.  Is there anything I can do while installing the new fan to prevent similar vibrations from occurring?


texts: Replacing a Honeywell Thermostat with a remote thermostat

texts:
I currently have a heating setup using Cadet wall heaters.  Three of the bedrooms each have a single Cadet heating unit with its own Honeywell dial-style Thermostat.  The living room, dining room, and kitchen each have their own Cadet heating unit and are controlled by one single Honeywell dial-style thermostat located in the living room.  The two bathrooms have a single Cadet heating unit.  While the unit in the kitchen is controlled by the thermostat in the living room, it and the units in the two bathrooms can be manually turned on/off.

It's working just fine, however, I'm curious if I could get and install a programmable thermostat which could control and schedule when the heat turns on/off in each room, separately based on the times that we're in said rooms.  For example, having the temperature controlled in the bedrooms from 9pm to 5am (heaters would be on/off based on the temperature), but off in the living room (because no one is in there); while from 5am to 8am and 3pm to 9pm the temperature is being controlled in the common rooms.

Can I replace the dial-style thermostat with a single thermostat,
which would also have remote thermostats in each of the rooms which
currently have a dial-style thermostat?
Does this type of thing
exist?
If so, am I able to change/upgrade my existing dial-style
thermostats with this type of thing?


texts: Best way to fill gaps between lumber and masonry or rocks

texts: We have built 4x4 retaining walls around existing rocks and concrete that we were unable to get rid of. The idea was - and is - use something fill the gaps between the lumber and the rocks / cements. Given that some of the gaps are over 2 inches, what is the best - and easiest - way to fill these gaps?


texts: How to use a gas fireplace and a furnace together?

texts:
So here's my setup:

Living room has both a thermostat for the gas fireplace (dumb on/off thermostat) and a thermostat for the whole house (smart/Nest thermostat) on the wall together.
Living room has the gas fireplace on the same wall as the thermostats
Furnace runs for basement/upstairs.

What is the best way to use these together?

We tried running them at the same temp, but the fireplace always keep that room (a pretty sunny room too) so warm that the rest of the house doesn't stay anywhere near a comfortable temperature.

Last winter we tried running the fireplace during the day (@ 74) then in the afternoon we'd turn on the furnace(@ 72), and it was just never good enough.

Thanks!


texts:
There are a couple holes in my house's exterior brick mortar about 3/8" in diameter.  Is there any reason not to fill them in?  I only hesitate because my masonry knowledge is pretty much nil.  Both are beneath windows (one is far below, though), but I wonder if they could just be old anchor holes since one is below three anchors.
First hole:

Zoomed in:

Second hole (mind the photo bomb):


texts: What material to use to fill 4' x 4' window hole for soundproofing?

texts:
In my apartment, it is not very loud but in the mornings I can hear occasional lawn equipment, people talking, occasional dogs barking, and cars outside the window.

I put 4 blankets over the window and that helped a lot (if I were to guess, ~10% to 20% improvement, maybe more). However, what I would like to do is seal in the 4 foot x 4 foot window hole with some sort of soundproofing material. I could then put the blankets over top that for additional benefit!

Obviously with an unlimited budget, MLV (mass loaded vinyl) like 20 or 50 layers inside the window frame and also layer the whole wall with like 100 layers. Yeah, that would do it. But my budget is not $100,000 lol. I want to spend under $100, ideally under $50. Several layers of 4 foot by 4 foot of mass loaded vinyl is too expensive, that would cost hundreds of dollars.

I thought of using this Owens Corning Foamular 250 4' x 8' x 2" from home depot, but when I googled, someone else had exactly the same idea and the response to them was that it will have almost zero effect (1 or 2 decibels, which is basically nothing).

I tried to google sound deadening foam like Auralex but was unable to find any prices.

I also considered getting some drywall/sheetrock and gluing a couple together with green glue as a "window plug".

I also considered getting some sound deadening plexiglass and sealing that in there. If that were possible I could have light also instead of a permanently dark room! It would be my favorite solution.

I also considered using weather stripping around the edges rather than caulk for an easily removable solution.

What would be the best solution for my situation?

Summary:

Need to soundproof 4' x 4' sunk in window in apartment. I am an extremely light sleeper.
Solution cannot be permanent (it is an apartment). Would consider semi-permanent solutions. Can't put up a separate wall.
I care more about sound proofing than light transmission.
Desire more dramatic improvement than 4 hanging quilts and blankets can provide.
Budget under $50, may be able to stretch to $100. If solution is extremely amazing then maybe a little more.


texts: Techniques to wrap the innards of electrical switches and outlets with electrical tape?

texts:
In the comments section of this question, MacGuyver's distant cousin MacGuffin recommended wrapping the innards of electrical switches and outlets with electrical tape to avoid any accidental shorts.
I think this is a great tip.  But the innards of electrical switches and outlets are often not exactly the type of shapes conducive to being wrapped with electrical tape.
What technique is recommend to do this?  A photo or two would also be most appreciated.


texts: When drilling your wire ways in the walls, what is the standard height in the horizontal height from the floor?


texts: What pump is good for emptying a pool with debris?

texts:
I have to clean an in-ground pool that has become green with algae due to us being away. I assume there is debris at the bottom, leaves and twigs. What type of pump can safely get the water and small stuff out without getting clogged?
Some people warn me about the danger of pool rising. Is this real? If a pool is to rise from underground water then that danger exists during construction too. How do they avoid it?
How do you assess the danger? Do I need to find out the height of water table?


texts: Can Lights' bar hangers not long enough to span trusses (New construction)

texts:
Kitchen remodel.  Using the previous (new construction) can lights but I got rid of the lowered ceiling and re-positioned the lights.  With where I'd like to place them now, the arms (bar hangers) from the lights cannot reach between the trusses.

This is because I want the lights right up next to one of the trusses.  It fits fine up to the close one, but cannot reach the far one. Distance between trusses is 24" center to center.

Ideas?  Can I just secure it to a truss on one side and leave the other side unsecured?


texts: How to ground a switch without a ground screw?

texts: I'm rewiring my house, and keeping some circa 1920 light switches, which don't have ground screws.  The switch cases are porcelain, and have a brass yoke.  I originally planned to sandwich a ground pigtail between the yoke and the box, but since the metal box itself is grounded, I figure the yoke will already be grounded to the box via the mounting screw.  Is it necessary to pigtail a ground wire directly to the yoke, or would they just add clutter to the box?


texts: How to white spray paint bath window for privacy?

texts:
What are tips to paint on privacy for bathroom windows?  White spray paint sounds easy, but would make it harder to clean the window, would it not?

Pros: Privacy with natural light. Window shades stay open while showering which keeps the condensation away, thus improving life of wood window frame.

Cons:  Unless the paint dries smooth-as-glass, it will collect dust much more quickly and be more difficult to clean.

What are professional tips to apply paint to windows for bathroom privacy and ease-of-cleaning?  Electrostatic paint?


texts: How to measure the width of a door with an extra ring?

texts:
I would like to order a new cylinder for my door and need to provide measurements. I do not know which of the measurements on the right (20 or 30 mm) I should choose:

Specifically I do not know whether the silver ring is something which is fixed to the door (more precisely - to the white metal box in the last picture below), or is it something I will be able to remove when removing the current cylinder?


texts: my furnace fan stays on even when at temperature

texts:
I recently installed a 2nd generation NEST thermostat.  I'm not home very often, but I was paying particularly close attention to the furnace after installing this thermostat and I noticed that the fan would not shut off.

Thought it was a faulty NEST so I put the old honeywell back on and same problem.

The furnace is set to a 60 second delay so the fan should shut off 60 seconds after temp (heat) is reached.

I opened up the furnace and i found a relay (p283-0294) that has terminals 4 and 6 jumped from "line" (110v).  when the coil at 1 (24v heat) and 3 (neutral) is energized (heat is on) then 5 (red, low fan), 6 circuit is completed.   When heat is off 4 and 2 (black, high fan) circuit is completed.

I went in and removed the wire from terminal 5 and now it behaves as I would expect.

Why is this relay in place?  Why would anyone want the fan to be on all the time like that when there is no heating nor cooling and the fan is set to auto?

This system does have a white-rodgers electronic controller. The only connection to this board from the relay is the heat connection on terminal 1.  The connection for 4/6 is pigtailed off of the line connection to the board. The neutral is pigtailed to neutral.

I feel like i just saved myself a bunch of money by not having the furnace fan running all the time but did I create a different problem?

furnace is a york gas upflow model P3URC14N09501C.  i inherited it when we moved in.  The only service I have not done on it myself is had the main fan wheel blade assembly replaced when it somehow got warped a couple of years ago.

no error codes / lights on via board diagnostic led.

Edit:  should the red wire i pulled off of relay's terminal 5 be going to the board controller instead of directly to the fan?  seems logical to me that the board would decide when to run that fan speed instead of all the time.


texts: Steel I-beam, Steel post, framing question

texts:
My basement was a coverup job. I won't go into what all was wrong with it, Long story short, we are fixing it all little by little. I'm trying to add a entertainment room. I've had the waterproofing done, got the asbestos out of all my heating and cooling vents, so I'm finally ready to start.
One thing I'm trying to figure out is the wall under the steel I-beam. The Beam is 3 3/4" wide, 9 3/4" inches tall (everything in my house comes out to 1/4 or 3/4 for some reason lol) and spans the length of the house 27' 1/4" Two round posts holding it up. They are both 6" wide, with a 6" square plate up top, so it sticks out 1 inch on either side of the beam. My main Breaker panel is 12 inches away from this I-beam. Should i just eliminate the I-beam and go to the joists above it? I just don't want to loose too much room because I'm going with the double 5/8" drywall for soundproofing. The previous owner couldn't figure it out either apparently and nicely left me with some 2x4 framing, they also didn't take into account for the basement sloping (there are shims everywhere, some as much as 3") so it just doesn't work
I also want to add a door at the end of the stairs there, basically right where the post is, but that's not as important as this wall lol. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


texts: Adding a layer of concrete and tiles in the garage

texts:
I just wanted to get opinions on my plans to fix the somewhat sunken slab in our garage.

We bought the house two years and (it's about 50 years old) and I have been monitoring the slab since day 1. It has not sunk any further so it's likely that the settling happened a long time ago.

Anyway, the slab is about 2" to 1" lower than where it should be and I am considering the following two options:

Add a thin layer on concrete and then install basic by 4/5 PEI rating porcelain tile.
Add the concrete layer but top it with 1/2" interlocking vinyl or PVC tile.

The reason go with the porcelain or plastic tiles is basically to avoid the thin concrete layer from peeling or cracking. Btw, I do intend to drill holes every few feet and use some bonding additive to help the two layers of concrete bond.

The question is, will either of my options work?


texts: Are bathtub sizes the rough in size or the tub interior size?

texts:
I am looking at installing a tub and the sizes are not clear what they are.

For example, the "Amiga" bath gives dimensions 72.0″ L x 36.0″ W x 21.0″ H. Is the 6 feet the size of the rough in, or is it somthing else?

In other words if the studs of the wall are 6 feet apart will the bath fit in there?


texts:
We're taking down a section of the wall between our kitchen and living room and we want to drop the 'bar height' down level with the sink.  Unfortunately, the bulk of the section we're removing has plumbing and electrical in it.  Most of that is not an issue.  However, I'm trying to determine if I can reroute the air vent for the plumbing as below.  The closest I could find on how to do it would be with an 'island loop':

I'm trying to determine if I can reroute the vent as such, rerouting in blue, existing sink level in red line:

As far as I can tell, the relevant bit of the georgia plumbing code is this, but does this mean the top of the loop has to go 6" above the sink?:


texts:
Can NM (AKA "Romex") cable reliably sustain contact with hot water pipe so that the water pipe never gets so hot as to melt the insulation and pick up electric current?

I'm crossing pipes and cable at 90° and it's hard to avoid contact.


texts: Can I use these brackets to make wall mounted bookshelves?

texts:
I have a fairly small home office and I also have several hundred books that I'd like to keep in my office. Because of the limited floor space I want to avoid any type of shelving that sits on the floor. I'd like to hang 4 or 5 6' shelves starting at around 4 feet up the wall.

I plan on spanning the 6' with construction grade 2x10s and for brackets I'd like to use these 7" Black Heavy-Duty Shelf Brackets.

Each pair of these brackets can hold up to 1000 pounds, and I plan on using three per shelf, anchored to the studs.

Each bracket is only 7" deep, is it acceptable to use 2x10s with these brackets? Each shelf would be cantilevered about 2.25".


texts: The shower elbow in the shower broke off at the copper pipe in the wall, leaving some of the plastic inside the copper pipe's threading. There seems to be some sort of sealant. How might you go about removing the remaining plastic from the pipe? Is replacing and resealing the shower elbow something a homeowner could do, or is a plumber required? How might you go about doing that?


texts: How to install a junction box for a wire splice

texts: My unit is getting ready to sell and the home inspector said I need to install a junction box ... I don't know what to do. Is this something my association management should take care of? How can I put a junction box on this? This is where it is in my kitchen.


texts: Fluorescent lights sometimes don't turn on

texts:
I have two T12 double-ended G13 2-pin 4 foot fluorescent lights in my bathroom. They often (maybe 1/3 of the time) won't turn on, with a very slight glow in one corner, then usually turn on after an extended period of time. I replaced the bulbs with new ones and this still happens. From my googling I read this as a sign that my ballast is bad. Is that right?

My initial response was to replace the bulbs with LEDs, something like the Philips Instafit or Hyperikon "plug and play" models that work with a ballast, as that would be a very easy installation I could do myself. But if my ballast is bad, that won't help me, correct?

Installing a new ballast in 2019 doesn't seem to make sense. So am I right in thinking that my best path is to buy non-Instafit LED bulbs and bypass the ballast?

Thanks for any help!


texts: Plumber's snake buckles when trying to unclog sink

texts:
I'm tackling a stubborn clog in a kitchen sink. I first took out the P-trap, but it was pretty clear. I then tried a 15' plumber's snake, put it in past where the p trap connects, and got the whole length into the pipe without unclogging it. I picked up a 25' snake, and it keeps buckling in the pipes, so I don't think I'm getting it in much further than the  15' snake.

Is there any trick to keeping a snake from buckling in the pipes, which prevents it from going in further? If a 15' snake didn't do the trick, is it time to call a professional?


texts: I’m trying to install a niche by my bathtub. when i cut into the drywall which is on an exterior wall there was a full sheet of metal behind the dry wall. it runs the length 60 inches and height 6 feet of the wall stopping right below the window. what is there sheet metal back there and can i cut


texts:
Looking for more info on the insulation process of a knee wall. I was thinking of insulating the diagonals of the roof line. not what I'm unsure of is, was is the correct type of insulation faced or unfaced for that part of the knee wall?

Thank you for your time


texts:
What is the role of Discharge Air temperature in HVAC?
How does it differ from Supply Air Temp and Return Air Temp?
How does it impact energy consumption and cost


texts: When is the best time to install solar tubes in relation to a new roof?

texts: My roof will need to be replaced next year, perhaps a complete tear-off. I'm also considering installing one or more solar tubes. I'm thinking it would be wise to wait for a new roof before installing the tubes, but the winters in upstate NY get very dreary and we could really use the extra light soon. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.


texts: How to best patch cracked and hollow plaster

texts:
In our victorian terrace the plaster in many places is very old and uneven. Under one windowsill the plaster has quite a large crack which is also a patch where the plaster is loose. If I tap the wall there it sounds hollow for about a foot diameter.

What is the best simple fix for this? My guess is I should avoid knocking the plaster off the wall as patching that would be a professional job. Would filling it and sanding it hold? Should I paper over it?

Or does the hollow plaster simply have to come off?


texts: Is it safe to wire a light junction box to a plug (which could then be plugged into a switch-controlled outlet)?

texts:
EDIT: I'm rephrasing the question, as it seems the original was unsafe. If I install a light box in the ceiling (both to mount the fixture to, and to make the connections between fixture wires and extension cord wires), would it be safe to then run the cord from the junction box, through the crawl space, and the plug it into and electrical outlet? If not, how can I accomplish the task of getting a light fixture to be controlled by the switch (which controls power to one of the outlets)?

Original post below:

I'm currently in a rental unit. The bedroom is in a loft upstairs, with a vaulted ceiling, and surrounded by a crawl space. Currently, there is no light fixture in the bedroom, though a few of the wall outlets can be operated by a light switch.

I've bought a light fixture (a simple 5 pendant track light),and I'm hoping to attach it to the ceiling, run the wire down the vaulted ceiling (from my understanding, I can just find a 3-prong extension cord and cut off the one end, yeah?), then out through one of the crawlspace doors, and finally plug it in to one of the light-switch operated outlets.

My question is - is this safe? I'm sure wiring the fixture to an outlet is safe, but I'm not sure about attaching the fixture to the ceiling. the back plate would need to be screwed directly into the drywall and possibly a stud if i can find it, since there is not light box, and I don't want to cut out a large amount of drywall to add one (being so it is a rental, though 2 screws / 1 wire hole should be fine).

Is there a risk of fire from doing this? One of the ground wires is attached to the backplate I believe. Will this be a problem seeing as with no light box, the backplate wouldn't be grounded to anything metal?


texts:
This looks terrible! I want a fireplace but this just looks wrong to me.  It goes all the way to the ceiling which is 2 stories.
 Can it be removed leaving just the fireplace and mantle?  Does anyone know the reason for this non functional  chimney?   It does not extend into the attic or exterior of the home.


texts: How should I ground a GFCI to a metal box?

texts:
I've replaced some old GFCI receptacles in my kitchen, which live in metal electrical boxes. The old GFCIs did not have grounding conductors attached, but it seems that the boxes themselves are grounded. (I have tested for continuity between two of the boxes and I get a beep; I am assuming that the two boxes being electrically continuous is good evidence that they are both bonded to ground.)

I don't want to rely solely on the GFCI mounting screws for a ground connection and would like to connect a ground wire. The GFCI has a green ground screw, but the box does not have a green screw inside. How should I bond the wire to the box?

Here's a picture of the mid-run box. The other box is at the end of the run.


texts: hardwood floor hole susceptible to wood filler?

texts:
I have a hole in the hardwood floor (I think it's birch) and I'm thinking to fill it with wood filler.

Is that a good idea?

Here's the hole:

It's probably 2/3 mm in diameter.

Thanks!!


texts: Are GFCI outlets allowed on new circuit installations?

texts:
A comment thread on GFCI outlet on 2-wire ungrounded question led to a discussion of whether GFCI is better/worse or even permitted at point-of-use (GFCI/receptacle) instead of GFCI/breakers in the panel:

But regardless of how much people sing the praises of "point of use reset" in GFCI it's still going the way of the dodo bird since code is now requiring the panels GFCI.

and later:

It is simply no longer code for new installs for a reason, the NEC is not stupid. I've tried explaining why if you don't want to accept it that's fine but it is where things are headed no matter what you want. Sorry.

Presumably this is a non-issue for any existing installations as many panels are perfectly, legally, functional, but incapable of adding GFCI breakers due to technical limitations or simply because there are no listed GFCI breakers available.
Can the code experts please clarify whether or not, in new work with a modern, GFCI-capable, panel, GFCI/receptacles are permitted instead of GFCI/breakers? Reference to any such change in NEC 2017, NEC 2020, any officially proposed changes or specific jurisdiction code modifications are appreciated.


texts: Can I remove a furnace compartment vent that's obstructing roof repair?

texts:
There are two vents going up to our roof, one is the normal vent from the furnace exhaust straight up to the roof.  But right next to it there's a second vent pipe, a little larger and single wall. This second pipe starts at the top of the furnace closet, about three feet above the furnace, has no obvious function and also vents out to the roof. It is not hooked to the furnace. The roofers are not able to properly cap these two vents because they are so close together, so we would like to just get rid of that second one, but we don't know if it has some official function.

Some previous owner of this 1960's California house made modifications and we just want to get it back to normal code. The furnace closet also used to have a drywall ceiling which was apparently partly ripped away, and we don't know what the code requirement is, aside from providing the proper clearance from the furnace vent to combustible materials. The furnace closet at this time is open to the attic. The odd second pipe which we want to remove seems to be part of the original house construction, judging by the way it's fitted into the ceiling drywall.

Combustion supply air comes from the crawl space below which is well vented.

I took a close look at a friend's house and that furnace closet has no ceiling and only the one vent that goes from the furnace to the roof.  Can anybody comment on this situation and help us decide what to do here?  Can we get rid of that second vent?  What about the drywall ceiling above the furnace?  Thanks


texts: What is this round roof vent fan called and how does it work?

texts: The following round fan is installed in a residential roof in a house in Pennsylvania.  The roof also has soffit and ridge vents.  The round part of the fan spins, but it is unpowered (by electricity).  So what is this vent or fan called, and what function does it serve that is not served by ridge vents?


texts: How can I repair my sagging shower door?

texts:
Not too long ago our shower door started sagging, and now it’s bad enough it won’t close. Which means when we shower water spills all over the place- and one of these days I just know it’s going to fully fall out.
I’ve included some pictures to make my situation as clear as possible.
I’ve looked for guidance online, but surprisingly I can’t seem to find a solution my problem, despite that I have what I think is a “standard” frameless shower door.

There’s a piano hinge on one side and gasket that runs along the side of the door holding it up. It seems it has bent and some of it is not even clamping the door anymore.

I don’t see any screws I can adjust either, which is frustrating. Here’s a picture from the rear for completeness:

What’s my next course of action? Do I need an entire new glass door or can I replace the part that clamps on to it and forks the hinge?


texts: Unscrew stuck shower head with circular section

texts:
<rant>
Why are shower heads made with a circular outer section that's nigh impossible to unscrew once they get stuck with years' worth of deposits,

PS: pardon my frustration and inadequate vocabulary; coming from Belgium, I'm somewhat disappointed with construction and fixture quality in California.

instead of having a few flat faces so regular adjustable wrenches can be used?

</rant>

Anyway, what are alternatives to Vise Grip pliers or pipe wrenches for unscrewing the regular stuck round shower head pipe from the shower arm? I've tried pliers and adjustable wrenches, but obviously they slip (the ridges are a joke and the picture shows how weak the metal is). WD-40 didn't help.


texts: How can I get a galvanized pipe that was threaded at the hardware store to screw into the fitting?

texts: I had 1" galvanized pipe cut to size and threaded at a large hardware store but they still won't screw all the way into the fittings.  When I compare them to the pre-threaded pipes I bought, the pre-threaded appear to taper slightly all the way down the threads and screw in just fine about a 1/2" but the store threaded pipes only screw in about 1/4" or less.  I've tried WD-40, Vaseline and I even filed the ends down a little to remove any burrs.  They don't need to be leak proof because I'm using them to building a closet organizer but they do need to fit together.  Any suggestions?


texts: Red wire is connected to ground screw in my 110 volt receptacle

texts:
Why would a red wire be connected to the ground screw in my 110 volt receptacle?  It is in a room addition built in the 1960's.

Romex 12/3 wire. 3 wires total: white, black, red


texts:
I have a door that was installed and the contractor put in some spacer wood. I didn't paint them and these were exposed to some rain (I'm in Los Angeles where it rains a few days a year)

Here's a picture of the wood up close. Are those black spots mold? I tried to rub them off and they wouldn't come off. Do I need to treat it or can I just paint over that?


texts: Hanging a large bowl on a stone backsplash

texts: I'm desperately seeking an answer to how I can hang a beautiful decorative shallow bowl between my stovetop and my range hood.  The bowl is about about 15 inches across and 3 or so inches deep.  It is absolutely perfect for the spot, but I can't figure out how to anchor it properly.


texts: What mesh to buy (and where to buy it) for gabion walls?

texts:
I'd like to build a DIY gabion wall. I've watched many tutorials, but I'm at a loss on where to buy the mesh the build the baskets from. I saw the mesh at the local Home Depot store and it was rusted, unsightly, and dented. I'm hoping for a clean straight look. I also looked in the local stone supply and found nothing. I'm in the Philadelphia, PA area.

So my questions are

What kind of mesh won't rust? What keyword am I looking for? (Galvanized?)
What kind of store can I buy it at?


texts: How do I attach a shelf to an existing kitchen unit?

texts:
In the kitchen of our new house, there is a slightly unusual extension to the side of one of the cupboards where the wall has been covered by a flat piece of veneered chipboard, the same finish as  the rest of the units in the kitchen. It looks like it might have had a shelf in there at some point, but it is currently dead space and I'd like to hang some new shelves in there if possible:

Behind the backing board the wall is drywall/plasterboard and I wasn't sure how to securely fasten a shelf bracket to the wall through the backing board. Normally on drywall I would use rawlplugs, but since I can't actually get to the drywall in this case, I wasn't sure if there was an alternative.

This second photo shows the unit to the immediate left of the area I'm looking at, you can see that there are some boxed in pipes that I don't really want to go drilling holes through if I can avoid it:

Can anyone give me some advice?


texts: How can I remove sheet metal screws from the wrong side of a wooden board with minimal damage?

texts:
I just took over my first apartment, and have to replace the kitchen fan. In order to fit my new kitchen in the cupboard above the stove, I have to remove 6 sheet metal screws pointing out from the sides on the inside of the cupboard.
The cupboard is made of some porous kind of cheap wood.

The screws have been screwed in prior to the cupboard (and kitchen) being assembled, so the "hat" of the screws are stuck in between two cupboard walls, and I am completely unable to reach them without dissassembling the cupboards from the walls.

Here is a hideous illustration of approximately what it looks like:

The 6 tiny lines signify the screws pointing out on the inside of the cupboard, while the hats are shown by the red dots.

How can I get rid of these screws while causing minimal damage to the cupboard?

Thanks in advance.

Edit
The screws were there to keep up a wooden shelf inside the cabinet.
I need to fit a new kichen fan inside the cabinet, so I tore off the wooden plate, but got no clue how to remove the remaining metal screws. They don't support the general cabinet structure in any way.


texts: Plugging compressor into 240v dryer plug (NEMA 10-30R)

texts:
I've recently received a compressor that has a NEMA 6-50P plug on it.  I would like to plug it into my current dryer receptacle which is a NEMA 10-30R.

Voltage and amperage-wise, I think everything should be fine.   The compressor seems to have a FLA of 15 amps - so the downgrade to 30amps should still leave more than enough.

It looks like the current plug was added or changed at some point, so I don't know if it was originally 6-50.

My concern is more around the grounding of everything.  I went out and bought a replacement plug for the compressor that is a 10-30 but I don't feel comfortable enough testing this without someone (who knows more about this than me) sanity checking my setup.

The compressor itself does make mention of "when grounded supply is available..." with a diagram, so it seems it should be able to operate in either condition...? (see the last pic below)

Btw, I rent the house, so I would like to avoid changing the receptacle if at all possible.

My question(s) is/are:

Should I be able to simply change out the 6-50 plug with a 10-30 plug in this case, since the FLA is only 15AMP?
Are there any special concerns I need to worry about around the grounding of it?
Based on the diagram and note on the compressor, does it appear that I need to change something there for the grounding (I'm a little confused by it).

I've included several pics below which should illustrate exactly how it's currently wired up with the 6-50 plug.  I would appreciate it very much if someone could chime in and help me get this switched over to 10-30.  Thank you for your assistance!

The new plug:

The old plug:

(full res)

(full res)

The switch on the compressor (one cord is the power cord, one goes out to the motor):

Wires going into the motor:

(full res)

(full res)

Compressor information (including diagram related to grounded vs ungrounded supply):

Update, per @threephaseeel's request, here is the receptacle:

Update #2

Red, Black, and White wires for receptacle in question:

(full res)

(full res)

(full res)

(full res)

This is a panoramic pic showing water pipes near the receptacle.


texts: How can I safely install drywall anchors around an electrical panel?

texts:
This question is similar but my scenario seems more risky:

electrical - How to safely install drywall anchors near wiring - Home Improvement Stack Exchangesk)

I want to install something that requires several – three or four, possibly more – drywall anchors be installed. I'd like to install the anchors near the where wall meets the ceiling but the electrical panel for my unit is also on this wall. There are no wood studs for any of the walls in the unit. I'm reasonably sure the studs are aluminum (or an even stronger metal in some places).

I'd expect it would not be a good idea to install any anchors in the space above the panel (all the way to the ceiling) but is it safe to – or is there a way I can safely – install anchors to both sides of where the panel is located?

Here's a picture of the wall with the electrical panel:


texts:
I have forced air extraction with a duct running through one classroom then a second. The classroom which is ducted closer to the fan receives much greater air flow through its vents.

To combat this we have to use airflow regulators- basically metal shutters- to restrict the airflow in vents 1 and 2 in order that 3 and 4 receive flow. As these are classrooms a fairly powerful motor is used to renew the air around 15 times per hour so this is rather noisy with a horrible whistling noise.

In this photo you can see vents 3 and 4 with 1 and 2 behind that wall.

I have spoken with a ventilation contractor who says having larger vents would alleviate the problem but I imagine I would still need to close large vents in 1 and 2 as much as with the smaller vents and the noise would persist. In all honesty I have had a poor experience in general with ventilation contractors so I don't want to waste more money.

I would appreciate advice and imagine this is a fairly typical scenario. I hope so at least. :)


texts: Tanked balcony drain has cover stuck down with sealant - how to remove?

texts:
We live in a leasehold (nearest US equivalent: condo) flat (apartment) at the top of a seven-storey building. Only our floor has real balconies, and the floor of each balcony is effectively the roof of part of the flat below. It's very solidly sealed/tanked. We have two such balconies, each on a corner of the building. Each has two downpipes from the gutters around the roof, and each downpipe feeds into an open drain. One of these drains is at the top of a slightly incline in the surface, and mostly only drains the gutters. The other is at the bottom of a slightly incline, and (in theory) drains the balcony as a whole, as well as another downpipe from the gutter.
On both of the balconies, the latter drain has a plastic cover about 1cm thick, which looks like it was designed for a slightly bigger drain (the openings represent a bigger space than the drain does), but it works. On one, it is loose, but doesn't end up moving around, so this is fine. On the other, it has been stuck down.
All the way around.
With sealant of some sort, I think. At least, we think we can feel something around the bottom of it. There's no evidence of any sort of screw or fitting, and the two drain covers look identical.
So on the balcony with the loose cover, the water running off the balcony itself can actually get 'under' it (not too efficiently, but it works), while on the balcony in which it is stuck down, the water only drains if it's over ~1cm deep. Then stops, unless we brush it so it is locally deep enough to go over that edge.
Is there any way we can safely, without damaging the weather-proof surface (which generally has decking tiles over it), un-stick that drain cover?


texts: Installing old doorbell chime (6 to 10v AC or 3-6v DC) with Ring 16v transformer

texts:
I live in a very old house and unfortunately when renovating, the construction crew broke my old doorbell chime. I managed to find a similar chime but I am not sure it will work with my Ring doorbell:

The cabling  for the doorbell chime looks like this: https://imgur.com/GdZr6x9
I know the electrician properly wired the Ring using a 16v transformer; however, I am not sure it will be compatible with this doorbell chime.
Thank you!


texts: Are nail plates required on the exterior wall side of the wall studs?

texts: My steel building has 2"x6" wall studs and 2"x4" exterior purlins. The steel siding is attached with screws to the purlins. I've run my wiring behind the studs and attached it to the top of the purlins. Thus the wiring lays on the purlins behind the 2"x 6" studs. The inspector stopped by and informed me that nail plates are required where less than 1 1/4" of wood is between the wall face and the wiring. Since there is actually 5 1/2" from the inside wall face to the wiring, he's now referring to the exterior wall. I thought the purpose of nail plates was for protection from nails or screws being inserted from the inside of the building. Why would anyone be needing protection from nails or screws being inserted from the outside wall? I didn't argue but I don't think he's correct. I guess I'm wondering if he NEC defines the wall face where nail plates are required? I'd be surprised if the face wall refers to the outside exterior side of the building wall. Thanks


texts: What is an affordable 2D drafting software for amateurs?

texts:
Background: We have about 1500 feet of unfinished basement that I am contemplating finishing off into a "grandma suite". Before getting serious about the project, however, I would like to play around with some layouts.

My first thought was to download the 30-day trial of AutoCAD LT. But surely there must be some software that's better suited to a casual user, and doesn't cost $1200. Right?

What are some affordable alternatives to AutoCAD for people who need to use drafting software very infrequently?


texts: 90 degree angle in air conditioning ducts, should I avoid them?

texts:
I have forced air at my home and air ducts run pretty much straight. However I want to add bathroom in the basement and because of low ceiling hight, the main air conditioning duct has to be re-routed around the bathroom (9 * 7 ft) as shown in the diagram below.

|
|
|<<<<<<<<<<<
|          ^
|          ^
|          ^
|>>>>>>>>>>>
|
|
|
[furnace]

As can be seen, it introduces 4 right angles. Will this significantly effect efficiency of the air conditioning and air flow?

Should I avoid re-routing this main duct?

Alternatively my other option is to make bathroom in another place in basement where location is somewhat less ideal and sewer lines are quite far away but it will not interfere with the air ducts.


texts: What's the difference between dimmable and non-dimmable LED lamps?

texts:
I have a large room in my house with 3 light fittings, with a total of ten 40W GU10 bulbs. So, this is using 400W when they're at max output (they're all on dimmer switches).

I'm interested in reducing this by replacing the bulbs with LED's (or some other dimmable low power alternative) as the ones I have fail over time.

So, I'm curious as to why dimmable GU10 LED lamps are so expensive. £20-£25 is the best price I can find.


texts:
having big problems trying to drill through a reinforced lintel to hang some brackets, i presume the concrete lintel has steel in but using a hss drill bit fails - which are the best type of drill bits to use, technique and which ones are the best.

thanks


texts:
I am living in a multi-family house which happens to be an old building. The person living under my room is a chain smoker. Unfortunately, the smoke is smellable in my room, even if I close the window and the doors. The only direct connection beween our flats is the heating pipe passage way.

Now the passage way was proofed with silicone. I wanted to renew the silicon because I thought this might help.

This is how it looked with silicone:

This is how it looks after removing it:

What is this stuff inside that looks like loose wool? Should I replace it with something before I put silicone on it? Any ideas how can improve the proofing so that almost no smoke will pass through?

Edit: Heres a requested picture of the floor:


texts: How can I soundproof a grille in a wall?

texts:
I have a niche as a wardrobe in my bedroom. The niche is built upon the stairs and has a wooden grille on the wall facing their side (think of it as a window-shutter, I guess it was made to give the clothes new air).

I don't live alone and I can clearly hear anyone in the hallway or in the stairs as they were in my room (and the other way around). I share the room with my girlfriend in the weekends, so I'd like to have some privacy; right now it's kind of not having a door. :)

How can I soundproof my room?

Some additional info:

the grille has no moving parts and it isn't linked with any duct, I can surely tell because I can see its back from the stairs;
there is no forced air system for heating or cooling the house;
the grille dimensions are roughly 85x70 cm (width x height), the room is about 9 square meters;
a 3 cm thick panel could easily fit over the offset between the grille
and the wall the grille is placed upon;
I don't use any speakers in my bedroom except for a small tv (volume is never loud);
I don't own the house, so I'm not allowed to make any extreme (= hardly reversible) change.

EDIT: Here are two pictures of the grille, the first one from within the niche in my room, the second one from the stairs my room is next to.


texts: How to fish NM cable up, over, and back down

texts: I am trying to fish a cable up from an outlet/switch box, over a door, and back down to a box outside. What is the best method to fish the cable?


texts: Can I increase the setting of my well pump's pressure switch to improve pressure?

texts: I just bought a house and my water pressure isn't the greatest. When I looked at it, the pressure switch is for 30 50. When checking the cut-in and cut-out, it was at 35 55. Can it be set higher like that or should I change it back to 30 50?


texts: Does anybody know what this mini vise-like tool is?

texts: Found this mini vise-like tool in the deep recesses of my toolbox. I’m sure my son picked it up from somewhere (he’s always buying strange tools) but he can’t remember what it’s used it for.  It is about 2.5” x 3” and has “79168 K8” imprinted on it, but I couldn’t find anything via google.


texts: Do waste water pipes for kitchens and bathrooms require a minimum slope to avoid clogging?

texts:
When I had a dishwasher installed, the plumber refused to install the waste water pipe horizontally, saying that this would get it to clog all the time. He left a roughly 1:10 slope on it. I thought it made sense.

Now I find that the drain pipes that my sink and bath are connected to (and which clog up all the time) are lying on the floor completely horizontally, for a length of at least 1.5 meters. They are 4cm diameter PVC pipes.

Is this a bad installation, and do you think this is why it keeps clogging up? Are there legal requirements in the UK for the drain pipes to be sloped, so I could get my landlord to fix these?


texts: Odd smell from hot water if I don't use it for a while, what could it be?

texts: I moved in about 3 years ago.  I noticed when I was running hot water I got a terrible fart smell from the water.  I ran all faucets on hot in the house to drain the hot water heater and fill it with fresh chlorinated water and it worked, no more smell.  I went on a 2 week vacation and when I got back the same smell was back.  What could be causing this and is it dangerous?  I can't afford a new hot water heater so I have to fix if possible.


texts: Defeating hardwood-marring kids and dogs by using hardwood that's already marred (distressed)

texts:
I want to replace carpet with hardwood, but have a dog and a kid, and have heard horror stories of them scratching and marring the pretty surface. So I'm considering a different approach: buying inexpensive "tavern grade" flooring that's already got character and scratches and holes and stuff. They way when they mess it up, you won't even notice! I've got a few samples of some nice tavern-grade oak and it looks like this:

Does anyone have any experience with this kind of thing? Will my plan work? Also, they're charging $2.59/square foot for this. Does that seem like a reasonable price?

Finally, the subfloor is a slab so I'm considering doing a glue-down install so I don't have to build a plywood subfloor, which would add considerably to floor height and make transitions to the other tile and carpet areas awkward.

Before anyone asks, I haven't found anything engineered that I like the look of. Handscraped stuff looks fake, and most of the wirebrushed floors are too light or dark to work in the space. That said, if anyone knows where you can pick up some wirebrushed butterscotch oak with a wear layer of at least 2mm, that would pretty much be ideal.


texts:
I know that the moisture problem we have is being caused by positive drainage towards the house.  I've seen recommendations for simply properly grading the soil (6 inch drop for every 10 feet) and recommending a clay soil.  The questions are these. I need to dig out a bit to get the slope I need. Does anything go underneath the soil, like gravel?  And does anything go on top of the soil, like a plastic membrane and then more gravel? Thanks.
Ron


texts: Anytime our AC is on we lose power in a few rooms mostly the kitchen. It can be on a few days before it goes out. I’ve had 2 electricians come they both said electric panel looks great , we did replace 3 breakers that were a little loose but they say if it happens again replace the electric panel, I don’t think that’s the issue. Had the utility company come today to make sure it wasn’t anything on their end and they tested everything on the house and said it was good so they wouldn’t check out at the pole. Has anyone else had this problem? I’m spending money for electricians to come look and they aren’t even sure they just want to replace things and see if that works.


texts: What is the difference between alkyd and enamel paint?

texts:
I have read that when professionals build houses, they usually use "enamel" paint for thinks like cabinets and builtins that will be subjected to wear.

What are the differences between enamel and ordinary alkyd (oil-based) paints in composition and how do those differences affect the behavior of the paint?

Is applying enamel paint no different than using oil-based paints or does it require special handling?


texts: Installing a transparent window in waterproof tool boxes

texts:
I have a bunch of waterproof toolkit boxes that I usually keep in the shed, which are IP67 rated. I'm horribly unorganised and frequently switch tools between them, so I can never quickly work out if the one I'm opening is likely to have the tool I'm looking for. I also frequently forget to put them away, and they sit out in the rain for a day or so. Any kind of sorting and tidying regimen, as I have previously demonstrated to myself, is doomed to fail.

As such, I'd like to fit a small transparent window in the top of each. The boxes are plastic (ABS?) so I could easily take a drill to them and install some acrylic glass, but I'd rather do a decent job of it.

I'm not hugely concerned about retaining the IP67 rating, as something roughly around the IP65 level will do just fine, but I do want to make sure that moisture can't seep in and ruin all my tools.

Any suggestions on how to make a clean rectangular cut in the top of the boxes, and how to seal the "windows" in place without making a total mess and leaking water everywhere?


texts: How do I wire this 240v fan motor and thermostat

texts: I'm trying to wire a two stage exhaust fan for my greenhouse. The motor comes set up for 240v wiring and is to be controlled by a thermostat. I undertsand how to get the 240v from the panel, but can't seem to figure out the thermostat wiring diagram. What connects to what coming from the panel and going to the motor? See photos 1)thermostat wires and housing label, 2) thermostat wiring diagram. The motor has three terminals labeled high, low, and common.


texts:
Here's what I have; 50 year old construction. 2x4 trusses, spaced 22" centers (2nd floor). Running 28ft in length with a beam in the middle (14ft).
For my ceiling I have nailed up 1" blueboard (Hard Styrofoam) directly to the 2x4 trusses.

Getting ready to hang my drywall. I have screwed in 1x4 furring strips every 16".  My plan is to screw the 5/8 drywall into the furring strips.

Question being: will my ceiling handle the weight?

Hello again, Sorry for being so confusing. I would send a pic If I was able.  I do not have pic of the trusses or anything like that at the moment. Yes, I do have cellulose (13") in my attic (rafters).  Picture if you will;  A ceiling that runs 28' wide and 38' long, with a 6" beam running perpendicular down the middle of the trusses (bottom of trusses). The trusses are made using          2 -14'  2x4's spanning the entire 28' distance, there is a beam smack dab in the middle where the trusses are fabbed together with 1/2" plywood gusset.  there was drywall nailed directly to the bottom 2x4 of the trusses at one time, I just don't know if it was 1/2" or 5/8".  So what we now have is 1" rigid foam nailed to the bottom 2x4 (bottom of trusses) and 1x4 furring strips screwed through the rigid foam and into the bottom trusses. Now comes the hanging of the drywall.  I am not so concerned with the 2x4 trusses holding the drywall as much as I am the 1x4's being able to hold without sagging. Is screwing into (say) 5/8 inch wood going to be enough depth to hold up drywall, Being that I have 5/8 inch going through the drywall as well.  It is old construction (50 yrs). So we're not talking normal. there isn't anything normal about this house.


texts: How to drill a 3/4" or larger hole in a steel bracket?

texts:
I purchased a wheel set and the bracket has a hole drilled in the wrong place.  I need to make the hole larger.

Will a titanium bit (like the link below) drill thru a 1/8" or 3/16" steel bracket? If not, what do you sugggest to make the hole larger?

Drill bit: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko%C2%AE-10194A-Shank-Titanium-Increments/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1453485308&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=TITANIUM+STEEL+METAL+UNIT+1%2F4%22-1-3%2F8%22

Bracket:


texts:
Two of the eight radiators in my house get only lukewarm. All eight radiators have been bled. The inlet pipes to the two dodgy radiators are red hot so the problem appears to be with the valves. I have tried to loosen one of the valves by removing the plastic cover and then tapping the top of the valve gently with a hammer but there was no improvement.

I have read plenty of advice on the web about loosening the pin in the valve but this seems to be inaccessible.

Could anybody advise what I can do to get the radiators working?


texts: Should a heavy duty transformer (used predominantly for LED lights) be on the mains ring or the lighting circuit?

texts:
I am putting RGB LED strip lights in a room, powered by a fairly heavy duty (30A) 12V transformer.

The transformer will also power a Raspberry Pi (volatage will be split to give it 5V)that will be used with a touchscreen to control light colour and function, and a motorised blind. There will also be a relay from the Pi controlling a couple of normal (mains) lights.

Given the "primary function" of the transformer is for lighting, I assume it should be on the lighting ring. (I guess the risk is with "forgetting" the motor etc is on the lighting ring.) Even though there is a high current draw at 12V, it is only 1.5A at 240V. There are only a couple of other lights on this circuit, so I think 1mm2 cable will be fine too.

Is this approach correct?


texts: What is this terminal called in my service panel?

texts: only ground wires are terminated in here.  I'd like to buy another one for the other side of the panel but I'm not sure what this is called.


texts: What should the humidity  be set at a vacant house in Minnesota January through May


texts: How can I slow the cold air coming in a furnace makeup vent?

texts:
I've got an air vent from the outside which discharges right next to the furnace.  I know the furnace needs this air, but a glacial breeze comes through all the time.  I've found 3 options and I'm not sure which to do:

Extend the vent until its about 6" from the floor and put it in a 5 gallon bucket.
Add two elbows to make a 180 degree turn and extend it up 2 feet or so.
Do nothing.  I'd be crazy to try and change something that's been like this for the last 20 years.

Will option 1 or 2 actually help?  I'd prefer option 2 because its the more compact solution.


texts: What is code or common rule when securing multiple electrical lines?

texts:
What is common practice or code when running new electrical lines in a home(15 amp/20 amp) in a basement that feed up to the 1st and 2nd floor of a home?

Is there a rule on how many wires can be run down the same floor joist overhead? In other words, If I need to run 10 new 15amp/20amp lines, can they bunched together and secured to the floor joist overhead safely, or is there a rule on how many cables can be together? And what is the rule if these wires need to cross a metal gas line?


texts: I need to join my fence with my neighbor's; Can't use his post..how do I dig the hole for mine close to his?

texts:
As shown in the picture my neighbor's fence is already in place (the vertical fence) Mine will be horizontal and I need to set the post as close as possible to his. My post will support a gate (72" long)

His post (white) is  already rotten and it is moving.
What options do I have? How do I dig a hole next to his post (set in concrete)

I don't think that his post will be enough to support everything. One option will be to extract his post, to replace it and to add a new one for myself and bury them both together in a large hole. Would this work?


texts: Can two circuits' neutrals be tied together (not a single neutral wire, but two that have been connected)?

texts:
Related to but different from this question, I have two three-way switches in my house, which are in multi-gang boxes at the top and bottom of the staircase and control lights at the top and bottom landings. I know for a fact, having fixed the "hot" side of the wiring to the three-way switches before, that the switches (along with others in both boxes) are fed by different circuits. However, all of the white neutrals in each box are twisted together into one bundle and wire-nutted; this predates any work I did on the circuit, but I don't know if this is the work of the original electrician or the "handyman" whose work I've been fixing since I moved in.

As these joined neutrals include the travelers of both three-way circuits, the neutrals from the nearest light to each box, and the neutral heading back to the panel from each box, these two circuits' neutrals have multiple junction points that tie the neutrals together.

Is this dangerous (from a fire hazard perspective)? My Google-fu brought up some similar questions, but the answers were all along the lines of answers to the related question in the link: "a shared neutral is bad". However, this isn't a "shared neutral" as in one white wire carrying the load from two circuits; this is two white wires carrying the load from two circuits, but the two white wires are both carrying the load from either circuit. So, to my way of thinking, there's plenty of copper to get the power back to the panel without overheating. And obviously there are no AFCI/GFCI breakers in the house (plenty of GFCI receptacles), because everything on both circuits works fine (they'd trip as soon as I turned a light on otherwise). The only concern AFAIK would be shock safety, as you'd basically have to make sure both of the breakers were off before working in either switch box (something I would do anyway; I wouldn't want ANYTHING hot in either box if I were messing with these switches, regardless of whether the neutrals are separate or not).

EDIT: picture == word*1000:


texts: Water heater tank - the upper of burner is rusty - will it leak soon?

texts:
I found the rusty and drip on burner, please refer the pic. My question is: will it leak soon from the rusty place? It's really scare me when I saw it. And, the water heater is almost 20 years I think.
Thanks, and appreciate your answer.


texts: Spray foam vs injection in garage ceiling with bedrooms above?

texts:
My new home has 2 bedrooms and a bathroom over the garage. Per the builder, there is a R30 insulation (so I guess about 9" batt, but haven't drilled in yet to check). This is clearly not working as the temp diff can get up to 10 F from the rest of the house if the heat doesn't need to blow in the rest of the upstairs.

I called a company that does both injection and spray foam. Since the walls are likely only insulated at R13 (under code) in those room, I thought the bigger bang would be adding injection foam in the walls. They suggested I would do better with spray foam on the ceiling of the garage. My garage has finished walls and a finished ceiling. They said that I would need to have the drywall ripped down, then they would spray foam, then I would need to put up new drywall.

One company on the net who provides similar service said this on their blog: "If there is drywall on the ceiling, then injection foam would be used. "

I am wondering why the company I am talking to would want me to rip everything down rather then inject? Curious to know if this would be better or cheaper or other pro/cons? Is this because its likely a 9" gap and the injection foam would sit on the garage ceiling and not on the subfloor of the rooms above? I imagine 9" of injection foam would be overkill and waste of money... Could they spray foam by just making a bunch of holes - or would that just be ridiculous?

They said I would see a difference with just 2" of closed cell spray foam versus the R30 batt. 2" spray foam is about R-12. From what they said and I researched, the R-value is lower but its a full air barrier which compensates. They said 2" would be 94% efficient, going to 3" would be 96% - not sure what they mean by efficient in this case)

At the end of the day, is 2" or even 3" of closed cell the way to go? Would you still then fill the rest of the void with the left over batt?

I've read lots of good things about spray foam for the garage ceiling with habitable rooms above, but I want to make sure I am going to get better results with ROI /payback period being secondary concern. I don't want to find out that it won't make a big difference or that I should have focused on the walls or something else?

Other thoughts to what I should be considering while making the decision on how to proceed?


texts: What is the brand or type of this track lighting fixture?

texts: It only has two contacts, like J or L types, but they are staggered, like H type fixtures.


texts: Electrical outlets in my bathrooms don't have power

texts: Four bathrooms in my house three of them the plugs don't work but the lights do the only GFCI in my house is in the kitchen I already tripped that to see if that was why they weren't working did not help.


texts: Why doesn't my fan work unless plugged into GFCI standard outlet or surge protector?

texts:
A fan plugged into a GFCI works fine. The same fan does not work when plugged into a two pronged outlet. This fan will work when plugged into a surge protector that is plugged into the same two pronged outlet.

Where is my problem?


texts: How do I choose which LED bulbs to put in my home?

texts: General purpose LED bulbs seem to vary a LOT in price... from $1 per bulb to $40+ per bulb... and there doesn’t seem to be any tangible difference between them. I mean, some say they last longer, but it’s never enough to justify 10-20x the price. And the lumens per watt are pretty much the same. Am I missing something?


texts: Weather protected Sliding Patio door with a damp sill (Partial)

texts: We live in Southern Michigan on a canal.  Our house has a three sided glass enclosured sunroom.   The access from the house into the sunroom is through a patio sliding glass door.  One half of the sill of the Patio Sliding glass (that leads into the sunroom from the house) door is damp all the time. This dampness also seems to be on the lower courses of the brick. Again this problem is inside of the sunroom   We can not locate a leak any where.  There are no water marks on the higher part of the wall so the dampness does not appear to be coming from the roof.  There is carpet in the sunroom and it does not seem damp (have done the paper towel squish test, no dampness detected) by the patio door.  Next step is to pull back the carpet to check the slab position to the house.  Do you have ANY other suggestions for me?  I am at my wits end with this situation and know that there must be a fix to it but I can’t figure it out.


texts: Recently, the ground prong on my laptop charger came off and got stuck in the wall.  I have since retrieved the prong. My question is whether there is a way I could put the prong back into the Charger.  Thanks.


texts: Trying to understand clearance regulations on woodstove chimneys

texts:
I'm installing a wood stove.  The regulations say that the chimney top should be at least 2 feet higher than any part of the roof within 10 feet horizontally . . . from what I've read, this seems to be all about draft.  And it's also a bit unclear as to what the nearest part of the roof means.  For instance, my house has a second story but the part of the roof that the chimney penetrates isn't a second story; in other words, the chimney goes through a first floor roof, but where it emerges, it's about 8 or 9 feet over to a second story external ( steel sided wall ).

So, if the chimney needs to go higher than that wall, it would be like 12 feet high, which seems unreasonable.  But, if it's only about draft, I imagine the constraint is based upon the roof that the chimney comes from.  So that it's not interrupting air flow.

Can anyone provide clarification?


texts: Can I connect an indoor water meter to water heater with PEX?

texts:
So I have a water meter in our basement, connected to the city line via copper (it's also our electrical ground). From the meter is decades-old galvanized leading to a leaky shutoff (which I plan to replace). This galvanized goes forth through the house, with more recent connections to rooms made with PEX.

I moved the kitchen water line yesterday and we had a whole-house pressure drop. I believe corrosion has dislodged and become stuck in the line, so I plan to replace the remaining cold water galvanized with PEX.

My question with this: is there a reason to avoid PEX coming from the indoor meter? I'm thinking not, because it's cold water (I know I need 18" copper going into the water heater). I'd rather redo the line in PEX and go into a manifold if I can. But, I can do copper if there's a compelling reason to do so. I plan to check with the city on the meter itself, but thought I'd ask you-all first. :)


texts:
I'm currently sending grid power from my house to a shed, and I'm now trying to send solar power from an inverter back to the house. I'm confused because the house can power the shed (120V AC displaying from an outlet in the shed, but when I connect an inverter to the shed outlet, I am reading negligible AC output at the house outlet (60V AC) after disconnecting the outlet from the grid. Why would it be that AC can go from the house to the shed and not vise versa? Is it possible there is some diode underground that blocks current from going the reverse direction?
I wish I could provide more details about the wiring, but I'm kind of working in the dark because it's underground and inaccessible. I've provided the crude drawing below based on my most likely flawed understanding.
EDIT
Sorry I remeasured the AC voltage from inverter to house and am reading 60VAC (not 6VAC) on the house end. Seems like only half of the sine wave is being sent for some reason.
I've included some pictures of my setup. The first one shows the outlet on the home, the power comes from the attic down the tube into the box, which feeds the outlet. The cord in picture 2 plugs into this outlet and powers the shed through underground wire with 120V AC. When it's not connected, the extension cord has no power. What's weird is the cord has 60VAC when connected to the inverter (nothing else) so something must be going on underground since the shed has 120VAC from the inverter.


texts: Can I put a convection toaster oven over the range?

texts:
My over-the-range microwave died and I want to replace it with a convection toaster oven.

I would love it to be put where the microwave was, over the stove. Can I do this? I have looked for over-the-range convection toaster ovens, and there seems to be no one selling them.  Do they exist? Is it safe to put one over the stove?


texts:
I bought some of this Vector 14x Butane

To use in a Butane Soldering Iron and every time I turn on the Iron, there's a really strong rotten egg/gas smell (and it lingers even after 30 secs).  Is this normal?

I had a small torch years back and got some cheap butane from 7-11 and it never smelled so strong (could barely smell it) before when I turned it on.  Not even my gas stove smells that bad after using it for an hour.

Is it the butane? I bought the Vector cause the Iron said to use premium butane.


texts: Can turning up the temperature of a water heater damage it?

texts:
I've got a 40 gallon water heater, and what I've been finding is that it provides just enough hot water to fill my sizable bathtub, but no more. Which means if I want to rinse off with the shower after the bath is over, that rinse is going to be ice cold.

I started looking into buying larger water heaters, but found an article online that said there was cheaper alternative involving the following two steps:

Install a tempering valve, and
Crank the heat way up.

By turning the heat way up, but then subsequently tempering it with cold water, this will turn scalding water back into hot water, and the net result is that you'll be able to pull less water from the water heater to get the same result.

That does sound like a good alternative to me, but I have some concerns. Would cranking the heat way up actually cause any damage to the water heater? Or limit its life perhaps? Thanks for any advice you can provide.


texts: LED lights "popcorning" (flashing on and off randomly)

texts: My church installed some recessed LEDs connected to a Chauvet DMX-4 dimmer pack. The pack is connected to an Elation stage setter dimmer console so we can control from our sound booth. When turned off, the lights begin to flash on randomly then immediately off then repeats continuely(popcorning).


texts: What happens if I don't replace my water treatment filter?

texts: My house has Water Softener (Ionics IQ Series) installed by previous owner. We really haven't replaced the filter diligently, is there any consequence for this? I mean, will it make my drink water bad?


texts: Why are two columns holding up this support beam?

texts:
We purchased a new Ryan Homes house ten years ago and are now finishing the basement.  Down the center of the basement ceiling is a large steel I-beam between the footers.  Given the size of the house this is understandable.

However, this beam appears to be held up by two different vertical 'poles'.  One is a metal pole that is anchored to the concrete and looks designed to hold up the beam.  The other is what looks like three 2x4s nailed together and just shoved into place no more than two feet away.  Photos are included below.

Why would this makeshift wood structure be put in place when a metal pole is right next to it?  I thought it may have been a temporary support until they could get the metal pole in place, but then why is it still there?  How do I determine if this is a necessary structural element?


texts: How do I lower the temperature of an electric boiler in France/Europe?

texts:
My electric boiler is delivering VERY hot water: my hands are often burned when I forget to mix it with normal-tempered water.

Do you think there is a way I can make the boiler heating the water something like a maximum of 40 degree celsius ? on top of that it takes more energy to heat that water (even if any boiler has top-notch insulation).

The manufacturer is Olympic: 861154. 1200W, 100L, 230V


texts: Is there a dimmer light switch with secondary constant 120V output?

texts:
I have a vent fan and an overhead light in my bathroom. They are currently tied to one standard light switch. When that light switch is in the "on" position, the vent fan and light are both powered on.

I want to replace the existing standard switch with a dimmer, but do not have space to add an additional switch in the room for the vent fan. The vent fan needs a full 120V to operate properly. I also want to ensure that the vent fan is running if someone ever has the light on in this bathroom no matter the dimmer setting, so adding a second switch doesn't help solve that problem even if I did have the space.

Is there a dimmer light switch sold that has both the variable voltage output (for the light) and a constant 120V output when the switch is on? I've searched the internet and called Lutron but haven't found anything.

If not, can you think of another way to solve this problem?

Thanks!


texts:
Would anybody know what sort of lock do I need based on this pictures? I'll dissemble it if that's impossible, but I wanted to avoid having to do the work twice and just buy the replacement.

I'm trying to change the keys, but also have a working bolt. This is in the UK.


texts: how to connect an electric heater with 2 black wires to the wall?

texts:
I have a new stelpro electric heater 240v to install. The wall wire is also a 240v, it has been tested. 2 blacks wires and a green one are coming from the heater. The wire from the wall has only one black one white and one green wire.
The heater green wire goes with the green wall wire (ground). What about the rest of the wires?
Thanks


texts: What are the implications of driving a drywall screw too far into the sheet?

texts:
I'm not gonna lie.  The early stages of my very first home improvement project completely smacks of novice DIY'er.  I did so many things wrong that I've since learned from, but the first mistakes are still glaringly obvious, one of which being how I drove screws too far into drywall.  Some do more than break the paper and actually sink into the sheet by as much as 1/8".

I've read that this can keep the wall from being stable.  Will I need to pull all these sunken screws out and drive new ones in over an inch or so?  The fact that I have a double layer of type x drywall hanging -- suspended, actually -- like this makes me wonder if I need to tear it all down and do it right this time.


texts: Blown Thermostat Twice and Dead Transformer

texts:
A year ago, I had a brand new smart thermostat that caused the A/C fuse to keep blowing.  I replaced the thermostat with a duplicate, swapped the fuse out and everything has been fine.   Now a year later, my AC fuse again blew.  I checked the thermostat on another ac in the house and it blew that fuse too.  I replaced both fuses.  Now the AC with the problem will not supply any power out of the 24v side of the transformer, as tested with a multimeter.  I've ordered a new transformer and a replacement thermostat for the third time.
Is it coincidence it's the same unit and I've now had 2 bad thermostats?   It is possible the transformer has been bad this whole time and finally gave out, taking the thermostat with it?   This AC is not even 2 years old but the company that installed it is pretty poor and won't stand behind their install.


texts: Is there code compliant way to attach deck joists below a deck beam (or at least lower than flush with the top of the beam)?

texts:
I am trying to design a roof top deck above a flat roof on a row house.  The deck must bear on the parapet walls (4 layers thick structural brick walls on both sides of the roof), it can not bear on the roof itself.  Because of the distance between my two parapet walls I must use 3 laminated 2x12s for beams on the north and south ends of the deck with 2x8 joists running between the beams.  Because of a variety of zoning restrictions the surface of my deck must be lower than the height at the top of the 12 inch high beams (otherwise the railings would have to be too high for zoning).
Ideally I could hang my joists below my beams.  That would definitely allow my railings to satisfy code and zoning and, if there is a code compliant way to do that for deck joists, solve my problem.  Then my beams would essentially form the bottom part of the railing on those ends (capped by a deckboard or something to prevent rot, with the railings then going up from there).  Alternatively, I might be able to attach my joists to my deck beams so that they are flush with the bottoms of the beams, as opposed to the top (this might or might not allow my railings to satisfy zoning) - but as I read it neither of those possibilities appears to be contemplated by the code?
I realize that another possibility would be to find a way to lower my beams.  In the case of the south beam, this would interfere with the roof's attachment to the parapet walls and would create an unhelpful potential leak.
Thanks!


texts: What could cause a toilet to leave the flapper up and keep running?

texts:
I have an American Standard toilet I installed last year. I don't know much about plumbing, but I was able to install this toilet. It seems to function okay, except for what I think is a mechanical problem.

Sometimes when the toilet is flushed, the flapper doesn't close and water keeps running.  The handle feels like it's slightly stuck in the up position.  I looked inside the tank once when it was doing this, and the chain attached to the handle was slack. I don't understand why the flapper isn't closing.  I've tried putting more slack in the chain and loosening the plastic nut that holds the handle on the toilet, but it doesn't seem to be helping.

How can I fix this?


texts: Furnace flames run for a minute then shut off

texts:
I have a furnace (Model: NUGK050CF01) that has recently been experiencing some weird behavior. The furnace will come on (I can see the flames) and it will run for a little over a minute. Then the flames will go out for about 7 minutes, then the cycle repeats itself. The blower is on continuously while all of this happens.

I've done some research and this kind of behavior can be consistent with a dirty flame sensor or if the furnace isn't getting enough airflow. I have checked my air filter and it looks fine. I was unable to located the flame sensor and it looks like my unit does not have one. I've included some pictures.


texts: What size pipe fitting has an outside diameter of about 1/2 inch?

texts:
So in another thread this week I asked a question about the type of valve I need but I ordered the wrong size...uggh.

I ordered this tee connection because it included a shut off valve...which I like.

The new valve thread (3/8") is too big for the existing nut.
Can someone help me confirm the correct size I need this time?

Half inch (see photo) minus 1/4" for threads = 1/4"...?


texts: Should exterior stucco be sealed to prevent water damage

texts: Should exterior stucco on Tudor style home be sealed?


texts: Water not flowing through new bathtub valve

texts:
I replaced the valve stems on our bathtub (Danco 3S-9H/C is the specific part).  The cold water works correctly, but when I turn on the hot water nothing comes out of the spout.  When I pulled out the valve stem to see what was wrong, a small trickle of water came out of the faucet, so I don't think the pipe itself is clogged, but when the valve is properly in place nothing goes through it.
The valve is new and doesn't have any sort of clog that I can see when I remove it.  I've tried removing and reseating the valve stem, and also the seat and spring, but there's still no water coming out.


texts: How to run ground, for electric supplied by generator and batteries through a inverter

texts: I have a panel that is powered from the generator, it runs my major appliances. One of the circuits feeds my inverter/charger , which charges my batteries. A 2nd. panel receives power from the batteries, through the inverter, and powers rest of house at 110 volt.   Should I keep all grounds on their own bars?.(separate from neutral) Connect ground bars from one box to other?, and run wire to ground rod outside?.           I have a Trace 2.5 KW impulse correction FET power inverter, Model 2524. I use a Honda 2000 Inverter generator, or Black Max 3000 standard generator. Plug in connection runs to panel.                       The neutral feeds the neutral bar in the appliance panel, positive feeds the breakers, and ground feeds a ground bar. The neutral and ground are not bonded. Wire from neutral bar feeds input on charger/inverter. Positive from one of the breakers feeds the positive input, and ground from the ground feeds the inverter safety ground. Next the inverter feeds another panel. Positive from output on the inverter feeds the breakers on my other panel, a neutral feeds a neutral bar, a ground comes from the safety ground on the inverter, and feeds a ground bar. In this box the neutral bar and ground bar are bonded through a screw in the neutral bar. This panel runs my lights, TV, pump, etc..


texts: What does the Bearing Plate in a Worcester boiler do?

texts:
Recently our  Worcester Greenstar boiler became unable to start.

The solution turned out to be that the plastic flaps on the bearing plate had degraded and fallen apart, so the plumber simply removed it.

The boiler is now running fine with the fitting for bearing plate currently sitting on top of our microwave, so it doesn't seem to be critical for standard operation...

My questions are:
1) Is the boiler safe to run without a bearing plate?
2) How urgently should we be trying to replace it?
3) What does it do?


texts: What could cause a crack in the drywall where the wall meets the ceiling?

texts: My wife and I bought our home 3 years ago. It is roughly 50 years old, and had recently been shored prior to our purchasing it. There were a few cracks in drywall here and there, nothing that wasn't easily patched and painted.  Six months ago, we had spray foam insulation installed in our attic, and since that time, I've noticed some cracks starting to appear once again, some in places I'd previously patched, some new. As I was inspecting a re-opened crack, I looked around the rest of the house, and found an interior wall where the seam where the all meets the ceiling has split, almost the whole way across the room. I'm wondering, what could cause that? Could it be related to the weight difference caused by the newly installed insulation in the attic? Could it be some natural settlement following the recent shoring job? We also had a drought for most of October through present, which could also cause some settlement issues.  I have visually inspected the slab, but I don't see where any significant cracks have appeared. Has anyone seen anything like that before, or had a similar experience?


texts: Stacking drywall sheets in the bed of a smaller pickup

texts:
I will be installing drywall in an out of state property and will be picking up from HomeDepot. I am planning out the trip and wondering how many sheets of drywall will be carried per load.
The truck I will rent is the "Standard Pickup" from Enterprise that says Nissan Frontier or similar.  Looking at the specs of that truck we have

44.4"  "Cargo Bed Width between Wheelhousings"
61.4"   "Cargo Bed Widthat Floor"

https://www.caranddriver.com/nissan/frontier/specs

Given drywall dimensions of 48" x 96" I'm presuming from those dimensions that we could lay the drywall  not quite flat (since it's 48" vs 44.4" wheelbase) and just under three feet would dangle over the hatch in the back.  Note that I am only driving about 8 miles so I can go slower/more carefully.
Any idea how many drywall sheets would stack that way?  They are 1/2 inch each but then the hanging out back would likely limit the safe number.   I am bringing truck straps to help out.
Note: this question is more aptly about hauling and delivery than drywall but I do not have the reputation to add new tags.


texts: How do I wire a switched outlet with the switch downstream?

texts:
Can I simply use the same switch loop technique as with a light?

in combination with this:

replacing the light with the final outlet?


texts:
I live in the US and own a few appliances (mostly audio) that are European, designed for 220V and don't have a built-in converter to deal with 110V. I'd like to find a way to use these in my condo, for which all regular sockets are on 110V.

My understanding is that heavy appliances like heaters (and ovens, etc.) are wired on 220V and that my condo already has 220V. I have two rough plans.

First plan:

the heating is forced air -- it must be running on 220V
as such, there must be a live wire with 220V running to the heating vent
I should be able to pop the cover, find the 220V wires, and expose right next to the vent a 220V socket, with schuko to avoid mistakes
this will be more efficient than having a 110/220 converter running constantly.

Second plan:

I have a socket that I'm happy to flip to 220V + schuko, also standing fairly close to the electrical panel
there must be a guide wire running from the electrical panel to that socket
I should be able to pull a wire for that socket that is on 220V.

Question 1: does any of the plans make sense, and if so, which would be easier? (I may be missing assumptions on US wiring, quality of current, etc.)

Question 2: my panel says "circuit directory: 120V/208V". I'm surprised by the latter (208V instead of 220V). Can I still run audio appliances off of that? This seems on the low end of the tolerance spectrum.

It goes without saying that I would contract a professional electrician to do that; but before, I'd like to know if any of this makes sense. Thanks!


texts: What to do about water under interlocking floor?

texts: I started a load of laundry and apparently the drain tube had come out and it ran most of the water from the load onto the floor.. We have the interlocking floor tiles but there are gaps and in a couple areas I could hear water squishing under the floor as I walked on it. What do I need to do?


texts: Receptacle connection with aluminum wiring?

texts:
I recently purchased a home that has some aluminum wiring. The previous owner decided to "upgrade" the receptacles to make it "safer" for me and my family; these changes were made after the general inspection. He added some kind of crimp (yellow) between the wire and the receptacle and then added anti-oxidant paste.

I had two electricians inspect the work:

The first claimed that it doesn't follow regulations/standards, it was dangerous, and crimps used are not rated for receptacles (usually for electronics) and that there is even more of a chance it will come undone now. He recommended cutting them off and doing the connection directly to the receptacle with the anti-oxidant paste (as it was before)
The second claimed that it should be fine as long as the anti-oxidant paste was added

Find attached a picture illustrating the crimps (yellow) that was used in the installation (this is a sample the previous owner gave me, the real wiring in my wall is aluminum.

Now I am reaching out to the community to see who is right...
Are these "crimps" safe and acceptable solutions for the receptacle wiring or do I need to re-install them?

Any advice would be much appreciated, mostly worried about safety and insurances.
Thanks,


texts: How should I insulate hydronic radiant heating under floorboards

texts:
A couple weeks ago a contractor installed hydronic radiant heating at my place. The building is two floors (studio above a garage) and the heating was installed under the floorboards. When he finished installing the piping and pumps he told me I'd need to install reflective insulation.

After a few google searches I'm seeing mixed information on whether reflective barriers/insulation works or not. Some sites claim more heat is lost to the lower floor than the upper floor where the heat is intended to go (not that that's entirely a bad thing, the garage isn't heated and it's my workout/laundry room). They suggest using regular foam insulation.

My questions are:

Do I need the reflective barrier/insulation?
If I need reflective barrier/insulation, do I also need foam insulation installed?

Brand suggestions are also appreciated.


texts: Is plywood or dimensional lumber better for repairing notched joist?

texts:
During a recent remodel, I came across a 3 inch deep by 5 inch wide bottom notch in a 3x10 (the beams are that old!). I must say, i'm just a diy'er and even I was beside myself that someone would do this to that type of timber, let alone just to route a bathroom VENT HOSE!
Anyway, I am going to repair and it and wanted some opinions on the use of dimensional lumber (a 2 x 10 that is 4' 5" wide centered on the notch or perhaps 2 of them) versus using solid 3/4 inch plywood that is 9.5 tall and 4' 5" wide. Everything tells me the dimensional lumber is right, but it tends to be imperfect and in thinking about it I am wondering if a clean sheet of plywood actually may result in a more complete contact surface for the liquid nails and thus a stronger repair by joining more surface area of the three pieces (I would put plywood on both sides of the joist). It feels to me like the adhesive and subsequently the overall contact surface is the real strength in this repair and not the nails that hold the fix in place. As well, my thinking is the plywood would be lighter and thus put little strain on the nails or adhesive just to hold itself in place and so while not as "beefy" as a 2x10, it may actually result in a stronger result with respect to the notch. Again, just a diy'er and may be overthinking this but wanted some opinions?


texts: How do I install a Rubbermaid closet organizer in a paneled mobile home?

texts:
I have a Rubbermaid Configurations closet organizer and have no confidence in the enclosed hardware. I have a mobile home and the walls are all paneled - the studs very difficult to find as well as being smaller than 2x4.

What type anchor screws should I use? Should I use furring strips?


texts:
I'm putting a 56lb TV on a 20lb wall mount and attaching it to two studs with 5 screws (3 on one stud, 2 on the other). Installing the plate so it is off center would make the rest of the installation easier. My gut tells me this is a bad idea for like three different reasons.

Can anyone confirm or deny that intentionally shifting a lag bolt by an inch off stud center is a bad idea?

Thank you!

Update (and decision): The stud in question is at a 135 degree corner next to a bay window. Something I saw in an outlet hole plus holes I was drilling to check led me to believe I have a single 4" stud. I now believe that I actually have 2 or three studs next to each other.

Based on answers below, I want to hit the center of a dimensional 2x4, which is 0.75" from the edge. This actually buys me what I need. I originally thought I had to hit the middle of the 4", which is 2" from the edge. If all I need to do is hit 0.75" from the edge, that gives me an 1.25" extra inches.


texts:
I recently had to change the expansion tank on our boiler. I decided to add a shut off with drain as well as a pressure gauge to make it easier going forward.
I've come across a problem. The pressure gauge I installed shows 12 psi when cold and 15 psi when hot. I was under the impression it was meant to stay at 12 even when hot? Which is even more weird is the pressure gauge on the actual boiler is showing higher psi.. around 18 cold and 22 when hot?
The only thing I thought might cause this was an air bubble, but I have bled the system.
Another problem I had was I attempted to run the boiler as a closed system to insure it wouldn't keep increasing pressure (just for a day as I was out of town) and it lost all pressure. In my mind the only thing that would cause this would be a leak somewhere in the system, could anything else cause this?
Thanks for help!

[3


texts: I just acquired a Honeywell VisionPro TH9421C1004 thermostat but I didn't get the Equipment Interface Module (EIM) with it.  Can I still wire this directly from my furnace?  It only has 3 wire connections: Data, R, and C.


texts: Where is the blade/spindle lock on an old Skilsaw 5250 7 1/4" circular saw?

texts:
I have a Skilsaw 5250 7 1/4" circular saw i picked up used 20 years ago. No idea how old it is, but still works.

I recently put a metal grinding blade on it to cut roofing tin. Worked great. But now I want to put the saw blade back on. Never saw a blade lock button, so always used a Phillips screwdriver through one of the holes in blade to "lock" it while tightening/un-tightening the blade nut.

The metal grinding blade has no such holes. I Can't find a way to secure the blade/spindle while trying to loosen the nut.

Thanks.


texts: Method of running Romex across roof joists to recessed cans

texts: I'm finishing the interior of my garage and will be installing recessed lights in an angled part of the ceiling pictured. I wanted to know if it is OK to drill a 1/2" hole across each ceiling joists (red in photo) to run my wire to each can or should I run the wire to the wall, down through the top and across the wall studs then back up (blue in photo)? Thanks in advance.


texts: Making exposed structural wood look nice

texts:
I built a loft/bed in a bedroom. It uses structural 2x which will be exposed once the room is complete. The structural 2x (a vertical 2x6 post and horizontal 2x12-2 beams spanning 75% of the room) doesn't look awesome, but the loft is solid as a rock :)

Some ideas I have for making it look nice:

Drywall the beam and post -- wife veto'd that idea. She wants the
look of wood.
Attach 1x hardwood (maple/birch) to the 2x with glue/brad nail(s)? The problem with this is a) it's really expensive and b) I can't find a solid 1x14 to cover the 2x12 11.5" face and c) it seems wasteful to be attaching 1x to an already solid beam/post just for looks.
Sand and paint -- could do this, but the 2x12 has the standard cracks and rough finish that makes it difficult to deal with on a raw basis. It would be easier just to throw 1/4" drywall on it (but see #1)
Apply some kind of veneer. I don't know how to do this, nor if it would look good wrapped around a post or beam.

All four sides of the post are exposed. Only one face and the top/bottom of the beam are exposed.

I'm leaning towards #2, eating the expense and attaching 1x hardwood to the post/beam in a box kind of configuration. Are there any other ideas out there before I continue, and if not, what are some good ways of attaching the 1x to the structural wood?

Here's a picture of the wood that will be exposed. That big beam and the post at the far end (and the beam that can't be seen attaching the post to the wall on the right).


texts: Can a second floor exterior egress stairway go past a window on first floor on way down?

texts: The insurance company says I need a second means of egress, so I'm trying to design one, but can not find the answer to this question.


texts: Articulated arm wall-mount (13lb. LCD monitor), 25 gauge metal stud, 3/4" drywall

texts:
Looking for a sanity check

Could one mount an articulating arm to 25 gauge metal stud behind 3/4" drywall using a toggle bolt instead of lag bolts into wood/concrete?

Load is 13lbs., arm itself is about 6lbs., max extension is about 25" (would use to about 12").

Details

This articulated arm wall mount is intended to be screwed into a wood or concrete stud using two 3.1 inch / 80mm lag bolts (thread length 2 inch).

After drilling the first hole I discovered it's a metal stud, not concrete / wood beneath 3/4" drywall.

I was resigned to give up right there, but wanted a second (or third) opinion.

Would a 1/4" snap toggle anchor (PDF performance data) secured to the metal stud under 3/4" drywall provide roughly the same performance?  Toggler claims 464 lbs. pull-out load on 1/4" thread fastener.

The American Wood Council notes a 2" thread lag screw into Spruce-Fir-Pine (softest wood) resists pull-out load of about 319 lbs.  I see roughly similar numbers elsewhere.

Am I thinking about this the right way or overlooking something that will end up in disasterland?

Thanks.