texts:
I'm about to buy hardware for a treehouse project, and am wondering about the best way to attach 3/8' galvanized cables to a 4x10 PT beam.  The cables need to be attached near the ends of the beam to keep them level, since it is anchored to the tree only in the middle.  Basically it's an inverted tri-beam. See the image below.

Initially I was thinking just 5/8" galvanized lag eyes would work, but now I'm wondering if just slinging the whole beam with the cable as a loop would be cheaper and stronger. If I chose the latter, I would probably fasten 2x4s to sides to keep the loop from creeping toward the fulcrum.  Here's a crude diagram of that idea:

The other ideas I've been kicking around are 1)drilling through the entire beam at an angle and using a standard eye bolt, since this could eliminate the need for turnbuckles all together, or 2) Using a heavy duty D-Ring surface mounted to the top of the beam.  But these seem like they would be weak, or worse weaken the whole beam.

My favorite so far is the loop idea, but I have a feeling I'm missing something.


texts: How to balance pressure in a multi-zone damper hvac with an always on bypass valve

texts:
Background
I'm the new owner of a multi-family home where the previous owner was a large corporation that made money by overspending on renovations.  Thus, they tended to renovate with top-tier equipment over-spec'd equipment, and lots of options, but I noticed some basic misconfigurations that needed to be fixed.
Issue
The primary issue is that I have multi-zone central heating and air-conditioning system that does not adequately heat/cool the zones at the front of the building (let's call that zone 1, the master bedroom).  The zones don't seem to be effective with the multiple dampers because the bypass is always on bleeding pressure and one of the dampers is always open - was this done on purpose by design or is this a mistake?   Can I increase the bypass weight to close that valve so that the pressure is delivered through to the front of the house... and if so how do I know if that is safe and not over pressured?
I did a test by opening all the valves and turning on all the zones/fans and even that still triggered the lightweight bypass.
The bypass is right on top of the stack in the main trunk vent and the pressure does seem to be pretty high when it blows through the valve.  Do I need to test for obstructions/friction in the further vents as well?  I didn't notice anything and when I closed the register in the living room that is always on - the pressure to zone 1 jumped up and was adequate which leads me to think there is no obstruction.
Observations

The first floor has 3 zones and when you call for heat in zone 1 (the master bedroom) at the front of the house, most of the flow goes into the two rear zones: zone 2 (the kitchen/living room) and zone 3 (the guest bedroom) both located right above the blower in the basement and at the back of the house.

Dampers to zone 1 seems to work fine, however of the 2 dampers to zone 2, only one of them seems to work - the small kick panel to the kitchen.  The large main living room damper always remains open even though it does look to be wired to something.  Zone 3, the guest bedroom never fully closes or opens and seems to only partially close or partially open.

Thus zone 1 only gets very anemic air and is never warm enough, whereas the rest of the floor is sweltering.

There is also a small hallway vent that doesn't get much air and always seems to be on low flow

The floor below the rear bedroom is always warm, that's because the bypass valve is always activated anytime the system is on, whether all zones are open or not, the small amount of counterweight never closes the bypass valve.  The bypass vents directly into an open 10" pipe vent that points halfway into the basement ceiling rafter space and halfway into the mechanical room. Thus, it heats the ceiling and whatever else is in the ceiling gap whenever the heat is on.  At a minimum do we need to point that vent back down into the mechanical room rather than into the ceiling?

Other Questions
Mainly on how to balance the pressure and understand if the bypass valve was so lightly sprung on purpose.

How do I make sure the system is not over-pressured?  I'm tempted to adjust the bypass with more weights, but I'm afraid that they set it to that light weight for a reason.  However, it's always bypass venting, even when all vents are on.  Seems wasteful.
Is there a way to test or analyze if I would be over-pressuring the system if I modify these damper settings or bypass valve settings?  I don't want to break the furnace and I'm a novice.
Why is the living room damper wired but never activated, did they
purposely keep it off?
Can I wire up both living room and kitchen to the same damper?

Equipment

3 Ton 2-stage Rheem Prestige R96V
Rheem RCFL-HM2417CC - 2 Ton 17" Multi-Position Cased Coil
automatic dampers
Honeywell HZ432

Photos

enter image description here


texts: What is the purpose of a GFI outlet tripping on low voltage?

texts:
As I went looking for a replacement for a GFI wall outlet, I noticed that the advertised features of one outlet included "low voltage trip" – that is, the GFI will trip not only when a ground fault is detected but also when voltage drops below a certain threshold.

As a result, the GFI will trip and need to be reset whenever the circuit breaker trips, when there is a blackout or if you've wired your outlet in series with a switch (as for a power outlet outside the house which you want to be able to switch on/off from inside).

Is there an actual safety gain from designing a GFI outlet that way, or is that just an undesirable characteristic of a particular GFI design?


texts: Why do fire extinguishers lose pressure over time?

texts: We have a lot of fire extinguishers we're using in our company, and I'm wondering why fire extinguishers become depressurized even they're not being used, just on standby. I want to know why it's happening and what are the common reasons? What can I do to avoid depressurization?


texts: Backstab outlet with one wire screwed in?

texts: I'm replacing an outlet in my bedroom, and as soon as I opened it up I noticed there is the normal bare ground wire, two pairs of wires going into a backstab outlet, and then a single wire connected by screw. This is not connected to any switch or light or anything. The new outlet is not a backstab, got it from Wal-Mart. My question is, how should I hook this up? I'm assuming i can't connect two wires to one screw. Also there are three white wires and two black, one of the three white wires is the one on the side. Thabks for any help.


texts: Im making a room in the basement and have a problem with framing

texts:
There is a room in my mother-in-law's basement which was partially framed a long time ago and I was wanting to finish it. The problem is there is an exterior wall which sticks out and then back in and there is a rigid pipe going along the bottom of it so I am unsure how I should frame along this.
The pictures explain it better .
Any ideas would be much appreciated.


texts: I have a LG dryer that I need to change the power cable from 4 wire to 3.  The existing cable has an rubber strain relief around the cable. It does the job well as I cannot remove the cable. I would like to keep my 4 wire cable. Any ideas on how to remove the cable and the strain relief.  Thank you in advance.


texts: 2003 home, new over-range microwave questions

texts:
Home was built in Upstate NY in 2003. In the kitchen, refrigerator, dishwasher, and range DO have their own circuits. Now comes the "fun" part. :(

I ordered a new over-the-range 1000 watt microwave, Samsung Model. According to the specs:

Power Source 120V/60 Hz

Amp Circuit 14.5 A

Power Consumption (Microwave) 1700 W

The issue comes from this: presently, the existing exhaust hood is "double-wired" on a 15am circuit with the gas furnace. (Which is new btw, it was replaced in 2018.) I am assuming this is a BAD IDEA to use this circuit for the new microwave.

Assuming I am trying to NOT pull new wire, (I don't have room in the 200amp service anyway), the only other outlet(s) are next to the range but close enough that I COULD run the plug from NEW microwave to this wall outlet. This is a 4-plug outlet on a 20amp circuit, but shares this circuit with our bonus room. This bonus room houses my girlfriend's office, and just off top of my head has a 23" monitor, laptop computer, and inkjet printer plugged into the wall.

I am open to ideas here. :( This is my first home, I am finding more and more wrong that our inspector missed every year we are in it. Thank you in advance for any advice on this.

Bottom line, would it be safe to plug the overhead NEW microwave into that 4-port wall outlet? I will cover the other 3 to NOT USE if I have to.

P.S. microwave model is:
https://www.samsung.com/us/home-appliances/microwaves/over-the-range/2-1-cu--ft--over-the-range-microwave-with-sensor-cooking-me21r7051sg-aa/#specs


texts: Cover exposed insulation behind bathroom wall in basement

texts:
I have a finished bathroom in the basement and 2 of the walls are shared by a storage room. On the storage room side, there is exposed insulation and pipes I’d like to cover.
What can I use to cover it?
I was looking at plastic sheeting or drywall or anything but with the moisture concerns I wasn’t sure.


texts: What steps should I take to prepare for using a thermal camera?

texts:
I plan on renting a thermal camera to detect heat loss (e.g., missing insulation, leaks in HVAC) and water damage. Outside temperatures are getting down to freezing at night but are mid-40s during the day.

What steps should I take to prepare for this to maximize the use of the camera? Some thoughts I had:

Turn the heat up several hours beforehand to maximize the temperature differential between inside and outside
Ensure the heat is running while imaging to better detect leaks in the ducts (is this at odds with the first point?)
Make sure it's not raining or snowing

Anything else


texts: I am building a shed and I am trying to do it as cheaply as possible. I am going to use 1/2" OSB for the siding and I am wondering what the best paint/sealer is to weatherproof it. We live in central Ohio, so it will take quite a beating from rain and snow. Thanks!


texts: I have a 50 amp breaker on the wall for my spa, can I come off of it to 30 amp RV service

texts: I have a 50 amp breaker at my Spa, can I run a 10-2 w/g 130 feet to my RV and install a RV box with 30 amp breaker and a 30amp RV plug?


texts: Can coax cables be replaced with a wireless solution?

texts:
I recently moved my TV to a location (within the same room) with no direct connection to a coax socket. I have been searching the web for ways to make this connection without having to drill holes or pass coax wires across the room.

This is possibly a stupid question but can you think of any solution to have coax "wirelessly"?

Thanks.


texts: My garage door works perfectly when it's above 45 degrees.  As it gets colder I have to hold the wall mounted master garage door opener/closer in to have the garage door close.  It opens fine. I've lubed the rails and rollers, chain, chain sprocket, pretty much everything.  This is the second winter in a row where it has not been able to close with one hit of the remote or the wall mounted switch. The unit is a Sears Craftsman 1/2 hp, chain, mfg in 2010.


texts: Can I put one circuit on two 20-amp breakers? I'm drawing too much power on just one breaker and I'm not able to run a whole new circuit right now.


texts: Garage door - sunlight & garage door sensor

texts: Can direct sunlight interrupt the sensor, preventing the door from going all the way down?  At night, early mornings or on overcast days my garage door goes up and down with no problem.  However, when the sun is out the door will go down partially then back up.  What can cause this?


texts: Can I change an orifice to make an R22 evaporator unit compatible with a 410a unit?

texts: I have an R-22 system that was never hooked up or run. It was put in place and then the project was put on hold for several years. The outdoor condenser unit is no longer available obviously. We just finally installed a brand new line set and a condenser unit 410a only to realize the orifice doesn't match.  Can I simply get a new orifice to make the 410a condenser unit and the R22 evaporator unit compatible? Both the R22 and the 410a are essentially brand new units - they've never been run. Also have a brand new line set.


texts: How to connect flexible tube to copper pipe

texts:
Underneath the kitchen sink, the faucet assembly has a copper tube that used to connect to a flexible pipe. The two have become separated as shown below:

I have tried pushing the connector back onto the copper tube and it leaks only slowly.  How do I connect them together so that they don't leak at all?

FWIW, the brand is Price Pfister.


texts: What can I use for a very small access panel?

texts:
I have a gas shut-off valve for my oven that needs access in the ceiling of my basement.  I currently just have the shut-off itself cut out and it is about 2 inches from the edge of the wall.  The pop-in panels I have seen at the big box stores are too big for this application.

Any ideas on what I can put over it?

The red knob is face down about 1/4 inch above drywall cut-out.  I need about 2x3 inches to be able to turn it off and on.


texts: Retrofit LED pot lights without housing, is it safe?

texts:
We’re replacing old can pot lights (the ones with bulbs). photo of old fixture

The new slim retrofit led pot lights do not fit into the metal housing so we’ve removed it. photo of metal can removal. They can be mounted without the housing and they stay in place. Is it safe to leave them without the metal can housing? Photo of the new retrofit led lights installed . Do I need to somehow house these wires? These are the exact connections Retrofit wires , there are no live wires or round splices, is this safe? Edit to add: there is no insulation and it’s on the main floor, there is a level above and the led lights are airtight models

photo of fixture here


texts: Floatless (altitude valve) toilet fill valve problems

texts:
Two problems with the valve, one; valve doesn't shutoff completely, two; when I opened the valve the larger diaphragm looked stretched out. I read somewhere that water pressure (hi, low) will adversely affect the valve. going to buy two new ones, open one for a baseline on rubber parts. Also going to adjust pressure switch on my booster pump to within the instruction parameters. Will be back.
LW29


texts: Is there a way to convert regular sliding closet doors to mirror ones?

texts: I have a regular sliding closet door, which I would like to replace with a mirror one. But I'm wondering whether there's a way to buy 'add-on' mirrors for the existing doors and just mount them. (And whether that's cheaper obviously.) Maybe I'm searching using wrong keywords, but I can't seem to find a solution.


texts: GFIC requirements for a Kitchen multi-outlet strip

texts: I was thinking of replacing my current kitchen counter receptacles with a Hard Wired Multi-Outlet strip that would run below my cabinets. My question is How would I provide GFCI protection? Can a Multi-Strip outlet be used without GFCI protection for a kitchen counter that's near the sink?


texts: How can I repair leaks in metal wrapped wood gutters?

texts:
I've noticed a good bit of rain water leaking through what first appeared to be my gutters on my roof.  When I got on the ladder and took a few pictures ( attached ), I noticed I've got wooden gutters that have been wrapped with thin metal sheets. The sheets look like they were originally nailed into the wood gutters and sealed around the top / side of the wood gutter. The sealing has started to come apart, and there are missing nails along the length of the metal wrapping.

So my first question is: how should I proceed to fix the leaking? Re-sealing the metal to the wooden gutter and re-nail the metal wrap into the wood gutter ( if so, what kind of sealant / nails )? Replacing the whole gutter system? Replacing the metal wrapping?

The wood actually looks to be in decent shape, but from what I've read, I'd have to paint the gutters every few years, and that's why the previous owners likely chose to cover them ( the whole house is now vinyl sided as opposed to the original wood ).

My 2nd question is: what's a good way to check for damaged external siding (my original concern when I saw there was leaking under the gutters)? Hardly any water is making it into the downspouts that are cut into the end of the original wooden gutter. Instead the water collects at the seam of the metal wrapping and drips down. I can't tell if any water is getting behind the gutters and causing any damage.


texts:
This yurt 30 ft. diameter; area is 700 sq. ft. ; circumference is 90 ft.

The walls are lath lattice covered with canvas. There's no interior wall space to run Romex like a regular house. You can't attach electrical boxes to the walls, either.

Some yurts have interior partition walls that hold wiring (and plumbing!) but not this one.
One option is to put flush-mount outlets in the floor. These seem to cost about $50 / ea., which adds up when you're talking about one every 12 ft. around the perimeter. They also require cutting rather large holes in the floor.

Outlets aren't the only concern: some ambient lighting from lamps hanging from the rafters are also on the docket. How to bring the wiring up the rafters?

Some yurts have additional framing in the form of 2x4s under each rafter:

This yurt does not have them, but I could add a few them as needed to support wiring infrastructure. I imagine I could run EMT up from the floor to a recep, then up to a light switch, and then up to the rafters for lighting.

How should I proceed?


texts: Can anyone identify this device, attached to roof in living room corner?

texts:
A friend of mine found this device in the corner of the ceiling in the living room of his recently purchased house. The previous owner has no idea what it was.
One of the KDU connectors goes into the roof and the CON3 cable was just hanging loose inside the box.
Given the SPEED, PUMP and DUMP LEDs, we suspect it has something to do with air conditioning but we're not sure.
Any ideas would be most welcome.


texts: Light won't switch off after blowing fuse

texts:
I recently tried to change a bulb using an adaptor (converting from a E27 to B22 fitting). After switching on the light fitting the fuse had blown. After inspection it turns out the adapter is faulty and must have caused a short-circuit.

After removing the bulb and resetting the switch in the main fuse box, I am now unable to operate the switch on the wall to turn the fitting off (the switch physically won't click).

Is there something I can do to fix the problem?

Thanks,


texts: How is a floating desk top supported against the wall?

texts:
Example of a floating desk top (courtesy of Phil Curtis):

With increased height, it'd be one of simplest standing desk designs, and I am planning to do this at home. But, I am not sure how exactly the desk top (i.e., the wooden board) is supported against the wall.

As you can see, the design isn't using any heavy-duty shelf brackets, or any apparent support beneath. How can this be accomplished?

(FYI, mine is going to be larger, around double the size of the desk top you are seeing in the picture.)


texts:
I want to Install an exterior NEMA 14-50 (RV plug) and dual 120V GFCIs. (One on each leg).  The whole thing is fed from a dedicated 50Amp Dual Pole breaker with 6AWG copper.
Is this a proper way to set it up or am I required to get one of the all-in-one RV sub panels?

Also, I want to hang both dual gang boxes on a metal purlin buried in concrete near the workshop structure.


texts: How can I calculate the number of solar panels required to power a specific load?

texts: I recently purchased a home in Maricopa AZ. With that said, I'd like for it to be most efficient. It has a forced air system for heat and cooling. I don't know the size of the cooling unit. How does one figure out the number of panels needed to properly supply enough current to operate devices properly.


texts: Condensation running down pipe connecting furnace thru ceiling to chimney

texts: I had a new downflow 80% efficient furnace installed in 2006. I don't use it regularly as I normally heat my home with my woodstove (separate chimney).  But I have used this new furnace many times during "in between" weather, and when I have been out of town. It has always worked fine. Then in 2011, I used the furnace regularly for a few months that winter.  I noticed that I had water or condensation running down the pipe that goes from my ceiling to the furnace - it would happen after the furnace ran for a bit.  It got to the point that I had to put a pan on top of the furnace to catch the dripping "water".  My immediate thought was that my chimney stack must be cracked as I know the hot air from the furnace meeting the cold air in the stack (if it were cracked) would cause condensation.  But after taking off the chimney cap and checking - the stack is fine.  My chimney cap was blown off during a windstorm, and now is slightly damaged and sits a bit lower than previously.  Could this be causing this problem?  I was told by one furnace guy that my chimney stack is too large, and that it needs to be lined to make the opening smaller, and to replace the chimney cap. He swears this will take care of the problem. I'm just wondering why it took 5 years before I had a problem. Could it be because I was not running it 24/7 like I started to in 2011?  I hate to pay for all this work if that isn't the solution?


texts: Can my friends and I use a torch gas cutter to cut into the roof, and dismantle everything by sections?  I imagine there will be some concrete layering underneath and such.


texts: Replacement HVAC blower motor fails within 24 hours?

texts:
My unit is a Carrier Infinity (FE4ANF003T00ABAA) with an ECM 3.0 blower motor.
To start, the thermostat reported a “Code 41 - Blower Motor Fault”. I ordered a refurbished motor + control module online and a surge protector (didn’t have one previously) and installed it. Ran it through the 5 minute heating diagnostic with no issues, but within 24hrs it had failed with a “Code 44 - Cannot Communicate with Blower” error.
I called up the company and they sent a new control module. Before installing the new control module (on their motor, not the original), I tested for signs of shorting with the multimeter, but resistance readings looked okay.
After attaching the module and reinstalling, it again ran fine through the 5 minute diagnostic, but within 24 hours failed again with Code 44.
I tested that the board is sending 12V to the motor controller and tested with and without the surge protector.
Anyone have suggestions on next steps? Any help is appreciated!


texts: What is the best method of hanging drywall on ceiling?

texts:
I am hanging more drywall and will be doing a basement ceiling.  I generally start in a corner and work my way out.  I use glue on the joists and then drywall screws.

Is the glue needed?  I learned to use glue on ceiling from an old drywall pro.  He said his callbacks went to almost zero for sagging ceilings once he started gluing.  Second question is that I try to line my pieces to meet midjoist so I can get a screw for each piece on the joist.  Problem is that common drywall screwed often break the drywall when done that close to the edge and then if I angle the screw, that is another issue.  So how do you screw in your middle ceiling joins?


texts: How can I resurface concrete sidewalks for easier cleaning?

texts:
Have been power-washing our associations walkways for 13 years and they are getting rougher and black algae is getting harder to get them clean.

What can we do to resurface the walkways that down the road will make our situation even worse?


texts: Installing a celling light with 2 black and 1 yellow wire

texts:
I moved into this apartment and there were no ceiling lights just bare wires hanging from the ceiling socket.
Now i have this light i bought from Ikea which has 2 wires 1 blue (N) and 1 brown(L) and in my ceiling I have following wires:
White
green
yellow
and 2 blacks
white and green wires are just passing through the socket and they have no ends but the yellow and 2 blacks have bare ends.
I have attached pictures if someone can tell me which wires do i have to connect to my light.
Thanks
edit: sorry for not mentioning it before, I live in Dubai, UAE


texts:
I currently have a 200amp main panel that has no room for additional breakers.  However I want to add circuits for the following:
1) 50amp circuit for a hottub
2) 50amp circuit for my garage for intermittent use of a welder and air compressor
3) 15-20amp circuit for general use

I plan to add a sub-panel this weekend.  What I'm trying to determine, and I seem to get varying answers from the supply stores, is WHAT amperage do I need to supply the new sub-panel with?  My initial thought was 100amps just to make sure I had the required power, but appropriately, it was pointed out that not all of these items would run at the same time, so a 60amp breaker may be sufficient to run the sub-panel.

I'd like to get some sound advice on which I should run, and what gauge of wire should be run between the two panels.  My thought is to run a 4gauge regardless.

Any thoughts are sure appreciated.


texts: Will a 3 inch (8cm) separation between CAT6 cable and 120V HV cable cause problems for 10-Gigabit Ethernet?

texts:
I recently had an electrician wire my house with CAT6 Ethernet cable and install a couple of outlets in my unfinished basement.  I recently noticed that there is only a 3-4 inch (8-10cm) separation for 15 feet (4.5m) between a newly-installed high voltage cable and all of the CAT6.  See photos below.  I'm not sure how long the runs are, but I'd estimate they're all less than 100 feet (30m).

My understanding is that it's best practice to separate high voltage power and low voltage communications cable by a minimum of 12 inches (30cm) when run in parallel.  I'm concerned that the failure to follow that rule may cause interference that will limit the future upgradability of my network installation.  I was hoping to someday upgrade to 10-gigabit Ethernet, but my understanding is that it's much more sensitive to interference than previous versions.

I've asked the electrician to relocate the high-voltage cable to another joist, but he doesn't see a problem with the installation.  He says the interference caused by this will be no more than that caused by "the nail that is used to connect the floor boards to the joist or the cable straps itself."  However, he doesn't specialize in computer networking and I have reason to believe he's unfamiliar with cutting-edge Ethernet technology.

How much interference in the CAT6 will be caused by the high-voltage cable installed like this, and will it actually cause a problem for the upgradability of my network to 10-gigabit?

High voltage/low voltage cable spacing:

High voltage/low voltage cables run in parallel


texts: I have a toilet that doesn't work... When you flush the handle, the water fills the bowl up but it does not drain. The tank on the back does drain and refill with water so I know that is not the problem. I have tried plunging the thing with no improvement. I have tried snaking it and from time to time, it looks like the snake does not go up the pipes, I can see it coiled around inside the drain pipe. We have tried to use drano for two days and nothing seems to help. I know that hiring a plumber is the best answer but at this moment in time, hiring a plumber is not affordable and not in the family budget. Can anyone help with any other suggestions?


texts:
Last winter, I've had some issues with ice dams on my roof. I live in a townhouse in Southern Quebec, Canada, in the middle unit, where lately temperatures during the winter can go anywhere between -40C to 10C.

So this year, I've decided to go look in the attic. There was a lot of insulation missing near the eaves and the space was pretty warm. I spent an afternoon in there filling the gaps, and insulating some exhaust pipes that needed it. I managed to drop the temperature by a good 7 or 8 degrees Celcius, so I figured it would be enough.

Today, it's about -7C and cloudy with a bit of snow. I went to double-check that my changes were good. I found that sure enough, the temperature has dropped below freezing for the most part (figure #1). However, both the sidewalls - made of brick - are still pretty warm (figures #2 and #3).

(Figure #1, attic temp)

(Figure #2 and #3, attic sidewalls temp)

So my first question is, I'm assuming that both my neighbors have similar insulation issues in their attics and that their warm air is leaking in my attic, am I right?

Assuming that's the case, and that I cannot get either or both of them to fix the issue on their end, is there anything I can do on my end, and should I? If so, what is it and how much work would that be?


texts:
I'm moving back to the States from Asia, and I have a lot of things I want to plug in that run on different shaped plugs. In Thailand, most new buildings are equipped with nifty outlets that can can take US, Euro, and Australian shaped devices.

I am not concerned about 110/220 conversion, as I know that anything I will be plugging can handle being plugged in anywhere worldwide. All I care about is the shape.

Could I purchase these outlets at a Thai hardware store and install them in my home in the US the same way as I might upgrade an existing outlet to one with USB (for example)?

Thanks for any input!


texts: Will outlet tests downstream of a GFCI outlet show open ground?

texts:
To correct receptacles testing as open ground, I could put a GFCI as first receptacle, my understanding, if I install everything right, the load after the GFCI, should correct (or protect) the open ground on the following receptacles in that circuit, depending on the GFCI specs.
My question is: How do the receptacles test after the GFCI is installed. Will they still test as an open ground? That's why you put the stickers on. Or should it test Good. And if still testing as an open ground and it should not be after installing the GFCI, what could be the problem?
Thanks for any help.
yamiacaveman


texts:
Need some help checking out what i'm doing and making sure everything sounds right and nothing fishy.
I have a large property with no service at the moment, I am working with the electric company to install a transformer and main service to a main panel on a free standing rack.
We will have a 33.6kv transformer.  I plan to have secondary wire about 100 feet away with our main meter (200a).  From there I need to have a main panel on the rack, i was considering a 200a double pole disconnect (or do I need a legitmate main panel with breakers for each line?)
Coming off the main panel/disconnect we will be feeding our house about 60 feet away(when finished) which will have a 200 amp panel etc etc...
In addition I need a second run off that main disconnect at the rack which is going about 80 feet away where I will be setting up a ground based solar array of about 15kw from the solar array I am also going to feed a water well pump/house that I will be placing about another 100 feet away from the solar array.  I am basically using the solar array as a feeder to the well pump as it will be about 180 feet from that first main panel to save on cable and conduit cost.
I am using 4/0 aluminum which I think is way over-kill but I got the wire for free.
First question, at the main panel at the meter can I use just a simple disconnect or do I need a panel with a main breaker and 2 other breakers to feed the house and solar array/well?
Second, do I need to run a ground WITH the wires or can I use just a grounding rod at the array and well pump?
The inverters and well pump are all 240v...  I don't need to run a neutral wire with any of this, correct?  Or will I need it for the inverter to be able to feed 120v to the house?   The inverter says it supports L1/L2 or L1/L2/N connections.
Thanks!


texts: Concerned about roof trusses and ceiling joists in new-construction home

texts:
Found a new-construction home I want to purchase, but I have serious concerns about the roof trusses and ceiling joists. The house is completed on exterior (bricked, windows, and roof completed) but interior is unfinished. Studded walls show floor plan laid out, but no drywall, no electrical/plumbing/insulation/cabinetry/fixtures, etc. House completely unfinished on interior other than studded walls throughout and sub-floor. Center of home is one very large, open space for main living space- living/kitchen/dining, and measures 33.5'x 20'.

My biggest concern is this: The ceiling joists(which are part of the roof trusses) run the direction of the 33.5 feet in the room, and are only made of 2"x4"s (seems way too small to me), which are connected by metal brackets which connect the 2x4's end-to-end, and there is obvious sagging in places along these runs of 2x4's. Obviously, once you hang drywall to make your ceiling, you would have even more sagging! There are no cross beams to add support anywhere in the 33.5'x 20' room. The roof trusses are made of 2x4's also, and all of this is spaced on 24 inch centers.

Someone has made chalk lines along the worst sagging areas, and the chalk line is over one third up the board in places, so cutting them to even them out would weaken the structure I would think (someone told me you could do that!)

I'm just trying to decide if I should run for the hills, or is this not a deal breaker? Absolutely everything else about this house and property is perfect, as we've been looking for well over a year now! Any information from those who're knowledgeable about roof trusses and ceiling joists in new-construction would be very much appreciated!


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New fridge with 1/4 inch poly line. Unfortunately the connection at the water line is standard copper pipe (1/2 inch). Tried a few different compression adapters from the local hardware store, the threads don't match up on the main water line, so I'm guessing it's a different type of threading? What would be the adapter sizing I would need? (I Don't want to pay a plumber sixty bucks to come screw on an adapter)

Attempted using 3/8 to 1/4 compression fitting, unable to screw onto pipe, seems appropriate size but threading doesn't match up.


texts: Christmas lights: getting rid of the half that doesn't work?

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We've all seen these regular Christmas light sets where only half of the lights work.

My question: assuming the half of the set that works is closest to the electric plug, is it possible to cut the half that doesn't work and rewire the ends?

I have about 5 sets of Christmas lights that only half of it work, and the half that works is the one closest to the electric plug. I don't want to throw them away, but I also don't want to go through the hassle of "hiding" the half that doesn't work.

Thanks.


texts: What is the best way to fill finishing nail holes on door and floor trim?

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There have been a couple of similar questions but none for my exact usage or that provides a good answer.  I consider myself average to weak on finishing wood work so would like to hear some good input.

Let's assume that the floor or door trim is either poplar or pine (wood I usually use).  And let's also assume that it will be painted white.

I usually use a wood putty to fill the finishing nail/staple hole.  However I run across two minor issues.

the wood putty dries smaller leaving an indention.  Sometimes this is not noticeable for months
even when being careful and wiping the surround area, there seems to be some noticeable putty remnants near the filled holes

So just looking for any tips/secrets in getting a perfect finish on white wood.

Update:  Over the next couple of days I will go wood putty (using ecnerwal's advice) vs. spackle to see what turns out the best.  Any other fillers to try?


texts: Ground size for 100 amp sub panel 200ft away

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I would like to install a 120/240 volt 100 amp sub panel on a detached garage that is about 200 ft away. I have read that one should strive for a voltage drop of less than 3% and from what I can tell this means I need #2 cu or 1/0 al for the two hot and neutral. What I'm having a hard time determining is if the ground wire to the sub panel needs to be the same size or if it can be smaller. I've read that the ground for a 100 amp sub panel needs to be #8 cu or #6 al but don't I need to take the long distance into account?

I really appreciate any help on this!

Edit:
Thank you Harper for pointing out that the 3% rule applies to expected loads, not the supply breaker size. Given my expected use I can probably go with slightly smaller wires for the two hot and nuetral. However I still have the same question about how to size the ground wire.


texts: Is sheathing required under a hybrid concrete tile roof?

texts: We have hybrid concrete tile roof that has concrete tiles attached to a dense foam backing.  The roofing was installed about 15 yrs ago.  In looking in the attic, I noticed there is not plywood or other sheathing under the roof tiles, just an underlayment.  Can this type of roofing system be installed without plywood or some decking?


texts: Smart thermostat (high voltage) makes heater constantly on

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I have a smart thermostat (Mysa) I'm trying to install.

I have 2 hots coming into the gang box (black and red). These are connected to another black and red that goes into another box with another thermostat, and then i have a black and red going to the baseboard heater.

When I connect the Mysa thermostat (hot black to line in, load to black on the baseboard heater, and L2 to the red (which is also hot?) The baseboard heater remains on, like the mysa is not controlling it. If I switch the Line in on the mysa to the red hot then it doesn't turn the heater on.

Can i not hook this up with 12/2 wire? (I dont understand why both wires coming into the gang box are hot, where is the neutral?)

Thank you


texts: Electrical Bonding for an exterior building

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I have to upgrade the service I have for an exterior building.
The wiring follows the old code, and I'll need a permit to do it.
So I am going to have to update the service and everything to the newest code regulations, but have a little confusion on the bonding of the ground and neutrals.
Typically you bond the ground and neutral at the first cut off point after the meter, be that a panel or a disconnect.
But the meter and disconnect sit on one building, and the panel and grounding system sit at another building, with about 115feet of distance between them.
From what I understand, in theory, the area that you bond, should also be the entry point for the grounding. (I could be wrong about this though)
Aka my ground should initially enter my disconnect, then bond, then travel the 115 ft to my panel.
But since the grounding point is at the panel, I am not sure how to handle this.
I am not sure if I need to bring my ground wire, straight to the disconnect, then back to the panel.
Or Install a new ground bar at the disconnect, just to do the bonding and then tie the other ground system into it at the disconnect
Or do it as I have illustrated in the drawing attached
(which I believe might be the correct way of handling this)
which is:
bring the ground into the panel
tie it to the ground bar only
push it back through the conduit to the disconnect
and bond it with the neutral there.
Am I correct in this? or am I missing something?


texts: Why does my gas water heater periodically make a knocking sound?

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My gas water heater makes a knocking sound seemingly once a day or once every other day. When I look this up online, everything indicates that it is the result of sediment having settled to the bottom of the water heater. However, if that's the case, I'd expect it to happen predictably after using the hot water, especially after a shower. But this is not the case -- the timing seems to be completely random. Futhermore, I notice that there are corresponding noises made elsewhere in my plumbing system, e.g. my upstairs toilet. Perhaps these symptoms are in line with the sediment issue, but I have not seen them mentioned anywhere.
Here are a couple audio clips:

Right next to the water heater
Next to my upstairs toilet


texts: Connecting earth wire with motor water pump

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I am going to rewire my house and at present we have no earth wire anywhere in our house. Even the wires/cables available here in the market only have one phase wire and one neutral wire in them. So I am going to take an earth wire from the distribution box (which I am going to have installed) to all the outlets in our home. I have two questions:

Q1: Can we connect the earth wire with the motor water pump in our house? The motor pipe go more than 150 ft underground right down to the water. Will it be safe? Our motor pump is like this except that this is a hand-use water pump and we have an electric one at home:

http://images.wisegeek.com/hand-water-pump.jpg

Q2: Suppose the earth wire from the main panel is connected to one outlet (with its earth pin). Now to connect the second outlet with the earth wire, can we connect its earth pin with the previous outlet's earth pin?

I am from Pakistan and here we have 220-240 single phase wire and one neutral wire to the meter.


texts: Reprogram new remote to garage door opener with dip switches

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I was having a problem with my garage door remote stolen in this thread but now I think I found a replacement remote that may work.

Is it possible to replace just the garage door opener console?

The garage door opener console is Sears 139.654021. However the remote is Model 139.53779

I found a few replacement possibilities:

390 1 Button Sears Craftsman Compatible Visor Remote Control

https://www.amazon.com/Button-Craftsman-Compatible-Remote-Control/dp/B008VVA352/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

AND

Craftsman 53879 (more expensive)

https://www.gatehousesupplies.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=53879-now-893_max&click=2&gclid=CjwKEAjw_LG8BRDb1JTxm8uP_UwSJADu_8pWLsockzvK2fVGdPfsUJGuF5k4Hn_stYmL_0Y8sZ905xoCz9nw_wcB

or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-53778-Garage-Door-Opener-3-Function-Remote-Control-READ-DESCRIPTION-/152169658712?_trksid=p2352135.l4275

I open the console I found the dip switch. My questions are:

How do I reprogram the NEW remote and current (only) remote if I change the dip switch code? Is there a dip switch to sync with the console too?
Do I need to do anything at the motor box? I read some online reviews and they say the unit (but which?) must have a green button. What and where is it typically (console, remote or motor)?

Thanks


texts: Will having an expansion tank on the hot water pipe cause any problems?

texts: I want to replace my water expansion tank and I just found out that it is installed in the hot water pipe coming out from the water heater. From what I've read, it should be installed in the cold water supply. I want to know if this will cause any problems


texts: Does my plan for 240V subpanel to planned shed 200' away sound reasonable?

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We are building a path and stairs from our cabin to the lake which is about 200' away. Eventually I plan to build a shed to store Kayaks.
In the short term I want lighting at the lake. Other than lights and potentially running light-duty 120V equipment (powerwasher, electronics, air pump) I can't imagine what else I would need power for at the shed. On the other hand I like to plan for "unknowns".
I was planning on running a combination of buried PVC conduit and PVC conduit attached to the stairs to get to the final destination.
I'm wondering if my plan to use 1" conduit, 8# CU (4 conductors) to a a 40amp subpanel sounds reasonable.
I calculate the voltage drop to be about 4%; does this sound about right?


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So  in the back of the property i'm currently  running direct burial cable to the shed,, while digging the trench i came across the hose pictured.
I know for a fact it has nothing to do with us,and nothing to do with the neighbours,it looks like copper but seems to be plastic..  should i dig it all up or just leave it where it is and don't give it a second thought?
(The misses thinks i should just dig it up and find out where it goes)


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Below are all the pictures that correspond to my question.

Last night I installed some stair nose molding and tried to follow the instructions the best I could (the part of the instructions in question is below). Now, I do not own a countersink bit, but did my best to do so with what I had.

The board fits perfect, it is ready to go except the screwheads are a little unsightly. I am concerned that the "filler" that the instructions suggest I used can't be blended properly. Has anyone come across this?

As I see it I have two options:

1) Buy a countersink bit to clean up the holes and tidy things up, the fill as instructed.

2) Replace this board and fasten a way that you guys suggest?

Any advice would be great on either option.

I apologize I only was able to post one of the pics of the screws used in installation I am posting this from the office and the other pictures is just a blurry, poorly lit mess. But both are roughly the same.

Thanks for your insights.


texts: How can I repair the damaged coating in my bathtub?

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The cat peed in our tub and I poured pure white vinegar in the tub to deodorize. I left about an inch of it in the tub for a couple of days. After I drained it I noticed that the glaze was gone where the vinegar touched the tub!

How do I repair this? I don’t want to install a new tub.


texts: How to distribute power better across two breaker panels

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Symptom: Lights dim when appliances or laserjet printer kick in while HVAC and clothes dryer running.

I currently have a 400 Amp service split into 2 panels each with a 200A main breaker. I'm all electric, no gas. House built in '96, one floor. Main feed comes in garage.

On one panel, I have 350A combined breakers (15A is not used, attic fan removed) and the other side 245A combined breakers (60A not used, was added for a jacuzzi that previous owners never put in).

I already had an electrician come to the house to loosen and tighten all the connections on the panel.

My thought is, I don't have proper distribution of power across the panels. However, I'm not an electrician, so I don't know for sure. But by looking at both panels, it seems the one side may be demanding a lot and not very well balanced.

I then noticed the office which has the laserjet printer is tied to the lighting in the living room and hallway. So I can see how the printer could be dimming those lights. However, the kitchen appliances are on a separate breaker which also cause the lights to dim.

I plan on running a dedicated line for the printer and office computer on the panel that consumes less power hoping this would fix it. However, I want to hear some other thoughts and possible solutions to this.


texts: 3-side punched steel channel (strut), image in the post - can't find any equivalents

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I'm looking to install a hoist system mounted to garage ceiling. I was originally going to attach some 2x4s to the ceiling joists and attach pulleys to those, but then decided to go with steel channels isntead. What I'm looking for is something like this:

It's 12 gauge steel (US, about 2.5mm) with holes on 3 sides and 1 side open.

All the home centers around seem to be carrying something similar, but without holes on the sides - only on the top. Such channels cost like $25-35/10ft. Kindorf looks to be the only manufacturer that I've seen so far making these struts with holes punched on all 3 sides which is so convenient for many applications, but theirs was like $100+/10ft when I saw it available.

Looking for links/brand names/keywords to use in a search/etc.


texts: I recently rewired an old house.  The laundry room is on its own circuit and the washer plugs directly into the gfci outlet.  Everything seemed to be working great.  The lights works and the outlets worked to plug in a shop vac or other various things. When I tried to install the washer and plugged it in,The washer started to fill with water and then tripped the breaker which is a 20 amp dual gfci afic. When i flipped the breaker I plugged a 6amp screw gun into the recepticial it worked fine so I tried my 9amp saw and once again it tripped the circuit. I am stumped.  Any suggestions?


texts: Arborist opinion on paving over tree roots. Will it kill the tree?

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I have a 30ft tall, 24in diameter Silver Maple tree, smack right in the middle of my 40ft-wide front lawn.

I'd like to widen my 10ft-wide driveway, but I don't want to cut down the tree, because it is still alive. I can probably widen the driveway a little bit, but I can see some roots sticking out that may get damaged while digging the ground 1ft deep for sand/gravel base.

If the roots get damaged in the process, will it kill my tree? I read that it will eventually die and fall to the other side of the damaged roots.


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I'd like to expand my kitchen and install a pantry in the corner. In order to do that, I'd need to bump out my kitchen sink and counters by about 6-8 inches straight back into family room.

The sink/garbage disposal sits next to a dishwasher in an L-shaped counter. The sink faces the family room (and counter seating). The main drain pipe is in slab. Is it possible to bump out without cutting into slab and moving drain?

I know nothing about plumbing, but looking under the sink, it seems to me that all the p-trap and garbage disposal lines, etc., could be flipped to back side of main pipe that leads into slab. Since I'll be replacing the counter and cabinets with new ones, I could put access to the sink cabinet on back side as well as in front. (Considering removing carpet and going with tile, anyway.)

Or can it be done somehow and still maintain the p-trap in front? Or must I abandon this idea (or pay bucks to have main pipe moved via digging up slab).


texts: How can I repair a power cable with missing jacket insulation?

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About 1 inch of the cable jacket is missing. The inner copper wires are intact and insulated.

Can I repair the yellow shield with an acceptable tape or shrink wrap? I need to pass an inspection and want to do it properly within code.


texts: We're trying to install a simple new LED light fixture. The ceiling has the normal three wires but the fixture has five with the two extra being purple and silver.  What are they for? There is no dimmer function. The model is CPANL LED flat panel light fixture.


texts: How leveled the wall need to be to put stick tiles on it?

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I have a wall that is almost leveled, but there are some problems:

Part of the old paint peeled off, so I removed the part that was peeling off. The rest still pretty good, so I didn't touch it.
Part of the wall has some spackling paste on it and can't be sanded much. It's almost same level, but there are some "noise".

We were thinking about putting stick tiles to make it pretty without having to worry about those problems. What are your thoughts around it? Is there anything I could paint the wall with to make is leveled?

Just a background here:
It's my very first time doing a half bathroom renovation and I don't have much knowledge about it.


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We just got an overly large (several hundred dollars over normal) electric bill from the city.

Being a bit of a diy I picked up an ammeter to to track down the reason. None of my circuits are clocking in over 2 amps in normal usage. I tried powering up everything in the house including all of the major appliances.

I only came up with a total of 22 amps, absolute max draw. US standard 110V.

I did the math but I wasn't able to crack our normal $150 / month (calculated out using the local kilowatt hour pricing).

What the heck is going on? Anything more for me to do before calling the electrician?

Edit:

The meter box is mounted to the side of the house, under a overhang.

When I used the ammeter I was working off the main hot line from the meter when I powered everything up.

I did see the other diy post.

We do have central air, howeverit was a lot cooler last month vs the same time last year. The usage shouldnt have spiked, at least that much.

The price per killowatt hour is comperable to last year as well.

We generally clock in at around 1200 to 1800 kilowatt hours. Last month was a bit over 2800.

We already tried (unsuccessfully) to lodge a complaint with the electric company.

The odd thing is the variance -$150 one month and near $1000 the next, with no noticible change in utilization patterns.


texts: Is 5/8" plywood over 1/2" board subfloor adequate for tile?

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Hi there hopefully I’m posting in correct spot I’ll try and get right to the point. House built in 1987 I’ve been here 10 years and redoing the 2nd floor bathroom that was vinyl flooring.

When demoing the vinyl came up with the 1/4 underlayment attached for the most part while some was still adhered to the 1/2 subfloor underneath. I was able to scrap the remaining 1/4” off the 1/2” subfloor.

1/2 subfloor doesn’t appear to be tongue and groove. It’s nailed into joists 16” OC. 1/2 is in ok shape and would be a nightmare to rip up and properly secure back down it’s a small bathroom with a lot of corners and walls build on top of the subfloor.

Here’s my thoughts going to 1 1/2” deck screw the 1/2” subfloor into joists every 6 inches and seams. Do 17/32 or 5/8 on top of that not sure if it should be glued to 1/2 and screwed into joists, or just screwed to the 1/2” itself?Then Ditra and 1/4” tile. Thoughts? Thanks in advance guys


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So I have a small room that I have my pc setup in. Unfortunately this means the pc is crammed up against the bed and desk legs. It is against a concrete (airated I believe) wall. I want to use L-brackets to mount the desk to the wall. It is 60cm x 100cm. It's the IKEA linmon so it's light. It needs to be able to support roughly 40kg at absolute most but I'd rather over build. I'm in no position to build another wall for mounting as it's a rented property, but have been given permission to mount directly into the concrete. I'm looking for ideas on which mountings to use to hold this sort of weight. I'm thinking 3 brackets to avoid any sag in the middle.
Thank you.


texts: What is it called when you increase the concrete floor (ramp it up) to avoid using a transition strip? What are the pros and cons of this approach?

texts: What is it called when you increase concrete floor by ramping it up, to avoid using a transition strip?


texts: Shower not hot enough, unable to find adjustment, manufacturer out of business

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Our shower doesn't get hot enough even with the knob turned all the way, I measure about 90 degrees F. A sink faucet in the same room at the same time shows 115 degrees F. The hot water pipe leading into the mixer assembly is too hot to touch, so it seems that enough hot water is getting all the way to the shower.

From reading other questions here it seems that these shower mixer assemblies usually have some kind of limit/adjustment mechanism, however I can't find it in this one, and it appears that the manufacturer went out of business a few years ago so I'm unable to find anything online about this particular brand (“Coventry Brass Works Limited”).

Does this particular assembly look familiar to anyone and is there a way to adjust it?

Here are some photos:

Temperature measured at shower

Temperature measured at faucet

Shower assembly

Shower assembly close up with handle removed

Shower assembly handle


texts: Best way to flash an EPDM rubber roof on a concrete roof deck?

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I'm planning to install an EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) rubber roof on my 1922-built, poured concrete garage. The concrete deck leaks heavily during rainstorms, and it looks like installing an EPDM roof is just within my ability. One detail I'm unsure about is how to flash the edges of the roof deck, but I'd welcome feedback on any part of the plan.

Right now, the plan is to first install a layer of fiberboard onto the concrete deck. This is to allow good adhesion and provide some padding for the EPDM. I'm going to screw that down with 3" tapcons and special large washers designed for EPDM. Then I'll glue down the EPDM to the fiberboard, leaving a few inches of overhang on each side. (I'm planning to use a large enough EPDM sheet, 15'x20', that I can do the whole garage roof without any seams.) I'll then fasten the overhang to the vertical edge using a termination bar (basically a strip of aluminum with screw holes every 6" or so) along with some EPDM caulk.

This use of termination bars seems like it should be really reliable, but possibly overkill -- they're designed to help seal the EPDM on its way up a wall, and this is down. Another possibility might be to use aluminum roll flashing, but I'm not sure of how to best install that -- would I fasten it over the fiberboard and down the side, then glue EPDM over top?  Or does the aluminum go on after the EPDM and if so, how do I fasten it without making holes that could leak through the EPDM? In either case, should I worry about ventilating anything -- is it possible for moisture to accumulate in the fiberboard?

Additionally, there is a gutter area shaped into the concrete at the rear of the garage, with a small pipe at its edge that leads to a downspout. I'm planning to continue using this to drain the roof, and expect to cut a small hole in the EPDM above it, flash that with EPDM flashing tape, and install some sort of leaf guard. I'd prefer to use a proper roof drain, but the pipe isn't wide enough -- maybe 2" diameter, slightly deformed metal.

Will this approach to flashing the edges and drain produce a long-lasting seal?


texts: What can we do about a section of plaster that has fallen off the wall?

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We have an old style terraced house which normally has a breast wall which accounts for the chimney; either side of this are two alcoves that are set back perhaps half a foot. The dimensions of these alcoves are about 1.5ft wide by 10ft tall.

In one half of our room, these alcoves have been bordered up to provide a surface that's level with the breast wall. This was fully wallpapered.

As we've been stripping the wallpaper off this wall, the plaster layer on one of these alcoves has crumbled off leaving us with bare plasterboard underneath. This is about 1mm deep. What can be done in this situation?


texts: What alternatives do I have to cap/plug the kitchen spray nozzle

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I have a seasonal camp that is winterized each year.  The kitchen faucet spray nozzle must have suffered from some ice damage and leaks constantly.

The feed line to it comes from the mixed section of the faucet and there is no way to disconnect it.

I would like to avoid buying a whole new faucet set and I do not use the spray nozzle.

Can I just cut it and cap it or is there another way to correct this problem?  (the water leaks all the time and if I don't keep the sprayer in the basin it leaks into the cabinet)

I don't want to replace the hose/sprayer - since I also want to use the hole in the sink back for something else.  I don't use the sprayer.

I suppose the answers depend on the model of faucet - in this case it is a MOEN - and it does not look like the host it detatchable.


texts:
I think my contractor may have covered up the GFCI behind the tile in a bathroom remodel several years ago. It has been fine all this time, but recently my wife was dying her hair and popped the circuit from an outlet in another bathroom in the same circuit. What can I do other than tear out the tile to reach the tripped outlet?
I would like to replace the GFCI to keep the circuit protected. Can I put a GFCI outlet in another outlet and bypass the tripped one?


texts: How do I read *instant* wattage draw from my spinning-disc electric meter?

texts:
I have the old school electric meter with the (far too rapidly) spinning disc.  I already know how to read five little clock faces for cumulative KWH.

I want to know the instantaneous kilowatts my house is drawing right now. How can I figure that out by timing how fast the disc spins?


texts: Can I pressure test a gas line section that includes a pressure regulator?

texts:
I have added two flex-pipe gas line extensions to the existing gas piping. Everything is working properly and there are no signs of any leaks while testing for bubbles with soapy water or any smell of gas whatsoever over a week after the installation.
Now, I need to pressure test the new section for inspection. I have a 15psi test gauge which will be attached to one of the new fixtures and I will close the remaining shutoff valves at the end of each flex-pipe extension AND close the shutoff valve that was in the existing black pipe that is just before the split/manifold.
The issue is that there is a pressure regulator between that shutoff valve in the black pipe and all of the end shutoff valves.
Will I damage the pressure regulator, specifically the internal diaphragm, with ~15psi of air pressure?
Will the pressure regulator release any pressure through its vent and prevent the pressure test from succeeding?
Thank you.
Eddie


texts: Asbestos fragments and hepa filter shop vac

texts:
I pulled up some moldy flooring and found some slightly damp plywood boards underneath. Underneath that was some 12 x 12 tile. I put on a respirator and pulled up about 4-8 sq ft of the stuff. Anyway a lot of the tile broke up into fragments as it was nailed down, I wet the fragments and vacuumed it up using a rigid shop vac with a hepa filter. I took the trash outside and bagged it. Now I realize a hepa filter in a shopvac does not a hepa vaccum make. I also should have vented the exhaust outside but I didn’t.

This was all in the kitchen at my home, wife coming home soon, I wiped down surfaced and have a fan blowing out the door, anything else I can do? Do you think I created a huge mess by vacuuming up the broken fragments with the shopvac and hepa filter?


texts: Flat roof ponding near drain - should roof be raised?

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We recently raised a dipped section of our flat roof in order to reduce ponding. We're not sure we've raised the roof enough. Here's what it looked like as the rains died down.

Do you all think we need the roof raised here? Or did we raise it enough?


texts: Appropriate fixing to lay joists on top of binders

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I am attempting to board out a portion of my attic space for basic domestic storage. Nothing very heavy, just Christmas decorations and the like.

The area I wish to board out is the span between two 8" x 3" timber binders, which themselves are supported at one end by a load bearing wall and at the other by an RSJ.

These binders support the ceiling of the floor below, which is attached to existing 3" x 2" joists. These joists are butted, and a structural engineer has advised they are not strong enough to support the new floor for storage.

The engineer advised instead laying new joists across the span on top of the binders.

What is the best way of attaching the joists to the binders?

I am aware of joist hangars which I could nail to the faces of the binders - but there are several inches of roof insulation sitting between the binders and running parallel to them. Attaching the joists via joist hangars would require lifting, cutting and relaying this insulation, and probably replacing at least some of it. I'd like to avoid this if possible.
I could attach the joists to the top face of the binders - but how best to do this? Could I use e.g. angle brackets (something like this) to support them? If not angle brackets then what is the appropriate fixing?

Finally, I should say that I've consulted the TRADA tables to determine that the dimensions, spacing and quality of the joists are appropriate for the load and the span.


texts: Insulating a 2x4 wall with exterior rigid foam

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I'm gutting the interior and redoing the siding of my old house. Unfortunately the exterior walls are only 2x4 which makes it challenging to reach R20 code let alone go above it to make a greener more energy efficient home.

So if you fill the 2x4 cavity with rock wool, then mount 4 inches of rigid foam to the sheathing, would that surpass R20? What would others do in my shoes? Double studding and losing square footage could be a possibility but would seem a lot more expensive.

Also where does the house wrap and vapor barrier go?

Climate Zone 5 (cold winters/hot summers)


texts:
What's the difference between DW4765 and DW4701?

Would the use cases be any different? They're both advertised for stone, granite, brick, and tile.


texts: Replaced water filter   its dripping      we are leaving and turning off water   will that stop it from dripping while away for an extended period/


texts: How do I go about leveling out streak marks in my wood stain?

texts:
I used knotty alder wood and sanded to 320 with a random orbital sander.

Knotty Alder
Min-Wax Pre-Stain Conditioner
Min-Wax Oil-Based Stain
Applied with t-shirt rag

I see streak marks in my staining method and I am curious as to the tactics I will need to use to get them out. Do I need to re-sand through all the grits? Should I try and apply another coat and even it out? Or am I out of luck?


texts: Is the fibrous material in this plaster coving asbestos?

texts:
Started to remove some coving border under the main coving. Seems to have this yellow fibre mixed in with what I think is plaster.

Anyone know what it is? Is it safe to remove? Worried it could be something linked to asbestos. House was built in early 70s (UK). Did think it could be horse hair, but seems too yellow.


texts: Why is my shower drain blocked for several minutes before draining?

texts:
Every day when I have a shower, the drain starts out plugged.  The water from my shower will slowly fill the tub.  After about a minute or 2 the drain will unblock itself and the water will all drain out normally.  The tub will stay unblocked for the rest of the shower, but will return for my next shower.  This has happened for every shower that I've had for the past month or so.

Why is this happening?  Is something wrong with the plumbing?


texts: What should I do with an unfinished parquet floor during a two-year rental?

texts:
I'm renting an apartment and I've just moved in.

The apartment's floor is a wooden parquet floor and it appears to have been polished/sanded but it doesn't seem to have any sort of finish on it, so I have no clue of how to take care of it for the following two years (until my lease ends) since the only wooden floors I've know were all lacquered or varnished.

(I will post some pictures as soon as I can)


texts: Where can I find a Powerline Internet Adapter with DIN Rail Mounting?

texts: There are several products in the market to create a home LAN using the existing electrical wiring at home. In all of them the point of entry(or the emitter) is a device that is connected to a wall plug. What I'm trying to find is an emitter that can be mounted on the main electrical board, next to the circuit breakers.


texts: How to install flush mount lights when ceiling electrical box is 1/4 of an inch below sheetrock?

texts:
We recently bought a house and are changing the lights. The ones that are currently installed have a dome base. We bought ones that will sit flush. The issues is that some of the electrical boxes hang down up to 1/4 of an inch below the ceiling. This causes the new light to not sit flush.

What options do we have?


texts: Pipe Dope (or Tape) on a Propane Cooktop

texts:
I have a Koblenz propane cooktop in my cabin and it recently developed a gas leak. Here's a video of my soap test https://youtu.be/uhKAhUsWaUY.

The manufacturer says I should use pipe dope (or tape) to fill up the treads and stop the leak but I've heard conflicting advice about the safety of this.

The pipe coming out of the back of the cooktop goes into a brass fitting and finally the hose from my propane tank screws into that. I'd be putting the pipe dope between the stove's pipe and the brass fitting.

It can get hot in this area when the burner closest to it is used for extended periods of time so whatever I use needs to be heat resistant and propane friendly.


texts: 12/3 to disconnect box for mini split install?

texts:
I have an issue with installing a disconnect box for my 24k LG mini split condenser unit.  12/3 is coming from 20 amp double pole breaker to disconnect box with surge protection box(ICM517).  I understand the ground bar cannot be used with the neutral lines.  My question is how do I correctly connect the neutrals?
I have included pics on how I thought it would be right and also with neutrals disconnected.
hooked to bar ( incorrect?)

disconnected but nowhere to go?


texts: What is the difference between a ball/pin detent and friction ring impact wrench?

texts:
I have been looking into getting an impact wrench for my car and I have noticed that any given model (at least the one I am looking at) has two versions.  One version has a ball to keep the socket supported (like a torque wrench) and the other type has a friction ring.

I am leaning towards the ball-locking mechanism because I am familiar with that, but before I make a purchase for something so expensive could someone please explain the difference between the two versions, and why one would be more preferable than another?


texts: What's the purpose of a dual two-pole breaker?

texts: I have one of these breakers in my panel? What is its purpose (vs a pair of two-pole breakers)? There are other posts that deal with tandem breakers but not specifically dual tandem breakers.


texts: Would it be out of code to switch a receptical this way?

texts:
I'm installing a door jamb switch for my pantry. I have a single receptable in the pantry (For powering puck/bar lights). Given the PITA it was to get fishtape around a corner into the door jamb switch, I'd like to only pull a two wire conductor conductor to the door jamb switch, but want to check if this is pretty much a universal code violation.

 ---   2 wire conductor (+ground) going to switch       ---
| * |--------------------------------------------------| * |
| * |--------------------------------------------------|   |
 ---                                                    ---
 |||
 ||| 3 wire conductor coming from line
 |||

Basically, a line feed would go through one side of the switch, and the other side would be the load leading back to the outlet. Is this majorly out of code, or is this something I can get away with?


texts:
I have an inline water heater. Once it gets hot it will stay that way for 20+ minutes at a time easily.

When the shower gets used it feels like their is a floor in how cold the water will get - if I turn the cold up past a certain point it runs ice cold.

This waterheater has been in a while. I've already flushed the lines with vinegar and tripple checked the gas and gas regulator.

What more should I look at? My guess would be the water flow control mechanism but I really don't know.


texts: How many problems does my shed's 240V receptacle have?

texts:
I have a detached shed that was wired by somebody who evidently thought codes were just a friendly suggestion. I'm slowly trying to correct the electrical sins as I find them.

In this shed is the following 240V receptacle:

The receptacle is wired as follows:

The wire that feeds it is 10/2, with this stamped on the side:

  E30445 (UL) AWG 10-2 WITH AWG 10 GROUND TYPE UF 600V SUNLIGHT RESISTANT

And that's fed from the following double-pole breaker:

This receptacle is the only thing on the circuit. Total wire length is roughly 80-100 feet one-way.

As I understand it, I have the following problems:

It looks like the receptacle is a 10-30R, which as I understand is frowned upon today because it doesn't provide a ground prong.
It doesn't seem okay to use the ground wire in a 10/2 cable as the neutral.
The breaker seems way oversized for this application, unless I'm misunderstanding how current works with double-pole breakers. It's not clear to me if "internal common trip" changes anything.
Other problem(s) I'm not aware of?

I'm looking for the most reasonable way to make this safe and code-compliant, bearing in mind that I don't even have a use for this receptacle right now. I know I always have the option of removing the receptacle from the wall, pulling the breaker out of the panel, and capping the wire at both ends. I'm curious what it would take to fix it right, however.

Bonus question: Does anybody have any idea what purpose a 240V receptacle in a shed could serve? My guess is the previous owner was using some kind of heater or heavy-duty tool -- what could it have been?


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My wife and I just went to look at a potential fixer upper that would be our first home. Naturally I want to get a good home for a great price. I don't have any delusions about trying to fix it ourselves, so i will be leaving it (most of it) to the pros. That said, I would love to avoid getting in over our heads from the get go. We just looked at a house that could be the one, however there was one glaring issue with this 1200 square foot, 1 level, bungalow from 1922- the floors are all uneven! They are wooden floors. There is a basement, with craw space under most/all of the house. Unfortunately for us, the house was recently painted and plastered, so any possible "tell tale" cracks are no longer visible.
My question to you all is, is buying this house with the given information a bad idea? Are obviously uneven wood floors, in a number of places, a sign of major problems ahead?


texts: How to join melamine sheets for a concrete mould?

texts:
I'm planning on making an L-shaped concrete kitchen countertop (2100mm x 2500mm) with a single large piece of concrete (Yes, I know, see below!). As the melamine sheets only come in a max size of 1220x2440, I'm trying to figure out how to best join the base sheets together for a seamless mold without leaving a depression in the finished surface.

I'm considering using Silicone on the exposed edges and then clamping the sheets together and bracing it underneath and on the sides with strips of wood. The big concern is ensuring that the seal keeps the liquid inside the mold and doesn't soak in to the chipboard.

I'm aware that it will end up being a very heavy piece of worktop, and may even break under its own weight when I (and 5 other people!) move it in to position, but I really want to give this a shot. I've planned and experimented with hollowing out half the depth of the counter with foam and am using glass fibres to add strength to the whole piece. I'll also be using rebar / mesh around the sink cutout to keep that together. A bit of research and math has told me the full weight will come in somewhere around 150-180Kg.

Someone asked a similar question before (How do I make this large mold for concrete countertop? ) but the suggestions came back with where to divide up the mold rather than how to make a single one.

Edit:
I'll be making the mold in the same room as where it will be placed (so, thank you for the warnings on movement and structural strength, but that's not my query). I'm willing to accept breakage and retries. My end goal is to produce a single piece of polished concrete from a mold, and don't want to pour in place as the skill and labour involved is beyond my mere DIY determination. Poured molds have worked really well for me so far, I want to figure out how to make a bigger one.


texts:
I was in a friend's home, and admired their skylight.  They have one of those tubes that goes through the roof to bring natural light inside.  The ceiling had a diffused circular lens to help disperse and diffuse the light.

I can't add skylights right now, but what type of fixture and bulb would give a similar effect?  Prefer something that can be left on for long periods of time that doesn't use much energy or generate much heat.


texts:
My town is making me get a permit to install a Bestway swimming pool, this one:  Link

Looking it over, it states not being able to connect this pump through an extension cord. I intially purchased this pool because of the price and I thought it would just be a quick set up. Apparently not the case, but after thinking more into it, it is worth the extra steps for safety.

I initially got a bid of $1300 to install the outlet about 75 ft away and it will be $200 cheaper if I do the trenching. I got another Bid for $600 for hook up if I do the trench and lay the wire.

I have experience with electrical as I have swapped outlets, installed fixtures, changed a breaker out on my breaker box, and installed an accessory receptacle to my dedicated furnace circuit for a humidifier, and I wired up the humidifier no issues. So, with that under my belt I feel confident if I am already running the wire and doing the trenching, maybe I should hook up the wires myself and save the $600. I figured going into it it would be half of that to do this job.

With this guide, Guide and various other research I have been doing here is the conclusion I have come to for installing this line:

Install At 18 in. deep, run THWN-2 conductors inside PVC conduit with a GFCI outlet at end.

OR

use direct-bury UF-B (underground feeder) cable which I would still do at 18 inches, since I will have a trencher, and the have a GFCI circuit breaker at panel.

What I am still fuzzy on. I have all conduit in my home with either method I would need a ground. Would I lead the ground from the circuit breaker box, or feed conduit to the outside of the house, with a junction box, and then transition to the pvc junction connecting the ground to the metal junction box connected to the conduit coming from house?

Also, I'd imagine this run and area it pops up will need to be a minimum of 5ft from the pool?  Also, I figure I would run 12 guage or wire rated for 20amp in the event I ever wanted to upgrade.

What should the end terminal have near the pool: Can I have a GFCI duplex outlet with a weather cover and just connect the filter to it? And because this filter seems pretty wimpy, can I still use it as an accessory connection for doing stuff around the yard?

Thank you.


texts: How to safely pull Internet cable out of soil?

texts:
My internet company installed a heavy 70 ft long cable across my lawn 6 months ago. They dug up a trench about a foot deep using a trench digger.
I would like to move the middle section of the cable over by 1-2 ft, as a big hole needs to be dug there.

I can see where it comes out of the ground and attaches to the house, they gave me about 4 extra feet of cable there. Can I safely pull the cable there, uprooting it? How would you suggest I dig it out, without risk of cutting or breaking it? I just need to move the middle 10 ft about 2 ft over.


texts: How close together can I put two drywall anchors?

texts:
I was putting up spice racks in the kitchen and I seem to be off by a half cm on one side with the screws. As a result, they're just a touch too close together and I cant get the screws to line up with the keyhole slots on the back of the rack.

Right now, I'm evaluating my options and it looks like I'll have to remount it up or down a bit... ideally as close to the original holes as possible or else the height becomes an issue.  In an ideal world, I'd be able to patch the hole and redrill it a half cm over so that the racks can be mounted at the height I had originally wanted.  I've never patched drywall before so I don't know how sturdy it would be if I did that.  The rack itself is small.  Won't be more than maybe 2 or 3 pounds fully loaded (including the weight of the rackJ)

This is the keyhole slot style I'm working with.  What I have is metal, so I can't easily cut it wider to compensate for the hole.


texts: I cut my hot water supply tube while replacing a damaged piece of flooring in my bathroom  - pretty much cut it in half and now can't get it to stop leaking. How can I fix it to prevent future leaks?


texts: I have a CF653C-H Cozy wall gas heater ..The fan runs fine , except when it shuts down , it clicks 15 to 20  times before stopping . At least I am guessing its the fan, could also be the motor ..But there is no issues during the normal run.


texts: How do I remove an unknown stain from my carpet?

texts:
I just moved into a place and underneath my bed there's a weird spill. I'm Not sure what it is: it's dark red and thick and dry. Is there any way to clean it or if not cover it up so it doesn't spread germs to the rest of the room? I typically use the space beneath my bed for storing things. If I had to guess it's probably food or vomit or blood.

Here's a picture after treating it a couple times with white vinegar. It's much better! The lighting is poor because it's under my bed so I used an LED head lamp to shine light on it.


texts: Compressor/fan stays off when cooling turned on

texts:
Before I begin, I would like to request "call a technician" suggestions to stay off.  I do know a nice guy who can look it up for me, for a variety or reasons, one of which being my general history of fixing stuff, I would like to take a first stab at solving this problem.  Thanks

Background: Both units are middle-of-the-line Lennox, about 2 years old.  The thermostat is Nest 1st generation, which also controls the completely separate hydronic heating system used with radiators.  The system does only AC (is not a heat pump, in other words).

Problem: I turn the AC cooling on and only the indoor unit (air handler) fan comes on.  The outdoor unit (compressor) stays off.  I checked power supply at the main panel (both units have a dedicated circuit, 15A for the handler, 30A for the condenser) and using a pen-like current detector.

Wiring Pictures

1. Inside Air Handler

Note that the upper thermostat cable is what goes to the compressor, lower goes to the thermostat.  The two white wires are from a small water detector attached to the pan in which the return box sits to switch the system off in case water drips in the pan.

2. Thermostat

Note that the RH red wire and the W1 white wire come from the above mentioned radiator heating system and are completely unrelated to this. RC red goes to the R in the air handler.

3. Compressor

So the C connector from the thermostat is connected to the air handler via the blue wire, which goes to C in the air handler and to which the blue from the compressor cable connects it to the black wire in the compressor.  My suspicion is that somewhere along is the problem unless the compressor is broken, for example a problem with its capacitor or something else broken.

Question:  How can I diagnose where the problem is using a multimeter? Is it possible to narrow the problem down to the capacitor OR the thermostat using my analog multimeter, i.e. to rule out the wiring, which seems like it is fine?  I can turn the system on and I would like to use the multimeter to verify that the thermostat is properly turning the cooling on via the blue wire to the compressor.  If so is the case, then the wiring is not the problem.


texts:
I have some bricked exterior areas that had some cement render on them, and then paint. The render has fallen off the bricks in patches.

I think the problem is that large chunks of the brick work was done using cement blocks rather than clay bricks as the areas that have come away tend to be more over these bricks than the clay bricks.

The cement bricks though are not the ordinary breeze block type porous heavy versions, but are more aerated and lighter than normal. They also appear to soak up moisture a lot easier (what I suspect is more the problem).

So given the problems with the bricks, what would be the best mix for a render coating that means I do not need to actually replace the bricks themselves?


texts: Is it reasonable that a contractor has asked for two-thirds of the project cost by start time?

texts: I'm not sure if this is an appropriate question for this forum.  If not, I'll remove it.  I need to have some work done on my house and the contractor has asked for 1/3 to schedule and pull permits, then another 1/3 on the day he begins.  So, 66% before any work is actually done.  That seems a bit steep to me.  I've looked at the .gov site for my state, and they don't allow more than 50% down payment, unless more is needed to secure materials.  Does anyone know if this is standard practice?  I'm viewing the entire payment as a down payment, as it will all be paid before they even begin.  Thanks.


texts: Calls for 60W max incandescent bulbs.  Salesman sold me A19 Dimmable LED Gen Purpose 60W replacement/uses only 6.5W.  Is this safe? This is not a dimmable light.


texts: Can I install 2 Reliance control pro Tran 2 transfer switch 10 circuit on same panel?

texts:
I believe I have a sub panel because there is a breaker at the meter to shut off power. There is also a separate neutral bar from the ground bar in my breaker box.
Assuming I have that correct, onto my question.
In the sub panel, I have about 20 circuits. I was hoping in theory, if I wanted to, I could take 2 of the reliance pro Tran transfer switches (the 10 circuit models), mount two inlet boxes, and attach two separate generators to them. Half the homes circuits on one switch, half on another switch.
Is this possible? Not sure how much of my ignorance will show here, but when I see the transfer switch wiring diagrams, looks like  for a sub panel, you send the white wire to the neutral bar, the green wire to the ground bar, then the red wire to each circuit you want to power, and the black wire you wire nut to the black wire you removed from the breaker. So when I see this diagram, two transfer switches on all separate breakers, with two separate inlet boxes for two separate generators, seem completely independent of each other?


texts: Can a single metal electrical box use two ground clips?

texts: Inside a metal electrical box, can I use multiple ground clips (one for each conductor), or is it required that all ground conductors be twisted together and pigtailed into the same clip?


texts: Do I NEED to remove the wood trim to sand and re-stain it?

texts:
I have 108 year old original wood trim throughout my house. Due to a roof leak last February, three rooms on my first floor need to have most of the (also 108 year old) plaster walls removed and replaced because it is moldy (inside the wall).  I am doing the demo myself (see my other post here) and have decided to try to keep the original wood. Partly because I want to keep costs down, partly because of the character of it, partly because I have read enough answers here that condemn folks who paint or otherwise destroy perfectly good hardwood and now feel too guilty to consider that alternative.

My plan was to remove all the wood downstairs and strip it and re-stain it.  Since this wood 1) has been subjected to lead paint removal (at least), and 2) is old, I figured this would require a delicate touch, and the use of a chemical stripper since I doubt it can stand up to any rough sanding. I want it all to match because I HATE that it doesn't right now (most is a hideous honey gold, some is a dark 80's fake wood paneling brown).

Now that I've tried to remove some of the crown moldings (not really! its actually picturing hanging rail someone butt up against the ceiling) and it is splintering into bits no matter how gentle I am, nor how much I plead with the patron saint of DIY.  I did the whole room that is getting gutted entirely, and I only have enough to put 40% back up.

So, my new plan is to only remove as much as I have to and try to stain the rest in place.  Is this possible? Is this what I should have planned to do in the first place?  Obviously, I've never attempted to stain anything more (important) than my 8th grade woodworking project. Another reason I wanted to do it in the garage-in case I make a big freakin' mess.

Should I just forget it and just get all new wood?  This would solve my other problem - attempting to match the old pattern (am I using the right word there?) - but would create a problem in the budget department.

If there are alternatives I haven't mentioned here-feel free to pitch me a softball...I need help, and needless to say, no one I know is handy, has good taste, and/or owns a house and understands the stakes. My fate is in your (collective) hands! No pressure. ;-)


texts:
My furnace will not turn on. Unless:

Switch off.      Unplug Fresh Air Intake Motor (a MagneTek ).
   Turn on (hear a click).      Plug motor back in.     Heat fires.
   Blower distributes

Its a natural gas Underwriters Laboratories MMHA-07AAHR-02. I've cleaned the motor out and oiled. Appreciate your thoughts.


texts: Is it typical for a roofing contractor to inspect roof framing and quote repairs?

texts:
I just got an estimate for a new roof on my home for $23,000.00.  The roofer did an inspection inside and stated that there was sapping on the wood beams at the highest point on the roof.  He stated that this is caused by poor ventilation.  I also have a crack that goes the whole length of one of the rafters.  My roof is large about 3425 and has high pitches which is why it is so expensive.  The price includes proper installation that would provide the proper ventilation that is needed and they would also repair the cracked rafter.  I am just sick about this and don't want to be ripped off. They would also remove the sap which he said is not necessary because the new roof would prevent further damage. But they would still remove it.

My question is: Do roofers normally check the inside of the roof as well as the outside or is this a sales pitch? Is it the norm for roofers to install a new roof with regard to ventilation? I could get a cheaper roof, but don't want to put a band-Aid on a roof if it's not properly ventilated
Thanks.


texts:
In the back of my house I see two external dryer vents. I am sure one isn't for the dryer.

I live in a townhouse and all the townhouses have these two vents so its not a reroute job.


texts: What is the correct Air Flow change per hour for my house?

texts:
I recently just got my house air sealed. Before air sealed the Building Air Standard (BAS) was 1.4 now it is 1.2.
Based off a 1300 sq ft house. What should the BAS be? Is there a calculator to determine if I have the correct air flow per hour?

Thanks


texts: How to prepare walls after skim coating?

texts:
Our contractor just finished skim coating drywall/plaster walls. It seems like the walls are still dusty from sanding, etc. what do I need to do to prep the walls for priming/painting?

I obviously need to get rid of the dust. Do I wipe it down and then wait for the walls to dry again? What else do I need to do?


texts:
I'm trying to put a light and a dimmer switch together for use in a chicken brooder. I have the switch and porcelain light socket but am a bit confused on the wiring diagram. My diagram looks exactly like the one found here

Basically I have a cord with a plug on one end and want to cut it in half, put both ends into opposite sides of a surface mount electrical box and have one side go to the wall (plug end) and the other go to the light fixture. From that diagram I only see two wires coming in from outside the switch but I'll have 4, not counting the ground wires which I also want to use and don't know where to put. Additionally, there are two wires coming from the dimmer mechanism but they show clearly going to 'loop' and 'c'.
So if someone could fill in the blanks below I'd be grateful!

Plug-brown?    (Loop, C, 1, or 2)
Plug- blue? (Loop, C, 1, or 2)
Plug-ground? (Loop, C, 1, or 2)
Light-brown? (Loop, C, 1, or 2)
Light-blue? (Loop, C, 1, or 2)
Light-ground? (Loop, C, 1, or 2)


texts: Where to locate moisture barrier in engineered hardwood floor sandwich placed over insulation board?

texts:
I'm planning to install an engineered hardwood floor on a concrete slab that is very very cold. The climate is northern New Mexico. The slab perimeter is not insulated, and doing so is cost-prohibitive at this time as it requires removing more concrete that abuts it, some of which is structural. The slab's thermal mass is not contributing much if anything to moderating internal temperature conditions due to the house's siting being unable to take advantage of much direct solar irradiance. All it's doing is making the house cold.

So I'm thinking of applying polyiso foam insulation board over the top of the slab but below the new floor, basically cutting off the thermal mass of the slab from the interior climate. If I were to do this, where should the moisture barrier go? Between the bare slab and the insulation board? Between the insulation board and the wood floor, perhaps with a moisture-barrier-type underlayment? Would I even need a moisture barrier at all with this setup?


texts: How would I install a window AC on an awning window?

texts: My house I'm renting was unfortunately made with awning windows. The window I want to place a window AC is a single pane large awning window that winds out. I certainly do not want to go with a portable AC as they're useless, and I have tried those already. What would be the best way to alter the frame to support a window AC?


texts: Is it possible to wire 2 GFCI receptacles on 2 circuits with 12/3 wire shared neutral?

texts:
I am planning to run a few needed 20amp outdoor receptacles (and therefore want GFCI). My plan was to run 12/3 wire from 2 separate circuits in the panel to a double gang weatherproof box with 2 gfci outlets using a hot for each and a shared neutral that was pigtailed before the first outlet -see poorly drawn diagram :) [red and black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground), triangle (Marrette)].
I have been reading/getting different advice as to whether the pigtailed neutral will work with GFCI outlets (some say no, some say yes but only if you pigtail before the first gfci and don't use the load to carry it to the second receptacle, some say it's OK but the circuit must be 2 pole connected).
Can anybody clarify please? Thanks in advance


texts: Recently my house has been invaded by acrobat ants. They are everywhere. On our tables, in our plates, in our glasses. They tend to be menace and have caused us a lot of trouble.


texts: How can I avoid marking up a toilet with a toilet auger?

texts:
For the sake of this question, assume that:

There is a clogged toilet that cannot be unclogged with a plunger
A toilet auger magically appears in the bathroom

It seems that the auger could leave a bit of a mess on the toilet (at least the part where the bottom hole is) because the end of the auger is a spiral shaped metallic thingy.

How could I avoid marking up the toilet if I were in such a situation?

Side Exhibit:

Let's say that all the advice is ignored and it turns out that the auger does leave marks. Can the marks be removed?

Edit:

Thanks for the answers. I've up-voted everyone's responses.

Unfortunately, reality kicked in the door by:

Leaving no marks from the auger or the metal bits
Leaving black marks where the bend at the bottom of the toilet auger goes (often covered with some sort of black plasticy or rubbery material)

So, my new question is:

How do I get those marks off the toilet?


texts: Want to put a switch in for light that has a pull chain, and also want to Add outlet

texts: Putting a switch for light and adding outlet


texts:
When I test for amperage on the hot wire at breaker, with 4 tower fans going, 3 lights, Christmas lights, a computer, a TV, an Xbox, a router and an air purifier it shows 0.45 on the universal AC setting, then when I switch it to the 20A setting it shows an amp draw of 6.5, 200A shows 6.9 and 600A shows 0.00

The amp meter is just one of those 35 dollar ones that's rated at 600V Cat II 400A, I'm just not sure if this is a normal reading or if I just need to purchase a more reliable meter because I thought the universal AC setting was suppose to work with Amp

There's no configure button or setting on the meter


texts: Led tape connection using two power sources

texts:
I have two 5 meter lengths of LED RGBW tape lights running above my kitchen cupboards. They are connected to each other and are powered at either end with a 60w transformer. If I do not power one of the transformers at that end it is dimmer (not enough power) If I power all is fine. By powering both however I have to use two remotes. My question therefore is there a way to directly power one end to the strip rather than going through the remote. Thereby using one remote but two power supplies?

Thanks


texts: 230 V single phase wired to 220 V dual phase?

texts:
I have a building in The Philippines. Electricity there is 220 V dual phase for all the lights and outlets (wired like a US dryer but without the ground).

We are installing solar power and the contractor is installing 230 V single phase inverters (1 230 V hot and 1 ground on each unit).

We also have a 30KV 220 V dual phase generator installed. The utility drop and the generator will be separated from the solar by transfer switches (on just the 1 hot 230 line) but all of the 110 US appliances are wired to the individual 110 lines with a neutral and a ground like in the US.

He says it will be fine, I say it will blow everything hooked to it up and short out the utility feed and generator as well since he will be hooking one of their 110 V lines and 1 of the 110 generator lines to ground. I'm sure no one has experienced this but I would sure like an opinion from a professional.


texts: What PVC fitting can I use to replace this cast-iron wye?

texts: I would like to replace this old iron cast fitting. See pictures. Do they make this type of fitting in PVC? Any ideas on which fitting i can use to replace it?


texts: What could be causing my underground well house to flood?

texts:
My underground well house (roughly 10' underground) filled up with water during August. My pressure tank is in this underground concrete box. Once all water was pumped out, well drillers replaced electrical control unit which had been under water. They drilled holes into the bottom floor of the well house to drain remaining water out of the box. Troubles determining where/how the water got in the box. Water is still dripping from inside top of concrete underground well house. Utility bill skyrocketed for month of August!!!!

Analysis is to dig down (6-10 feet) to the pipes feeding the wellhouse/pressure tank to look for corroded copper pipe leaking into the well house. Got any other suggestions?


texts: How to fill in 5/8" hole in drywall ceiling

texts: I had plants hanging from the ceiling with toggle hooks, each of which needed a 5/8" hole. What's the best way to fill them in & make it look good again?