texts: Does a fluorescent light fixture use more energy than an incandescent?

texts:
Help me save a friend's marriage!  :-)

They have 2 light fixtures in their bathroom.  One is incandescent with 6 75W bulbs, and the other is a fluorescent fixture with a 22W bulb that looks like it probably a type T9 bulb.

Whenever she goes into the bathroom, she turns on the incandescent fixture, because she heard that it is expensive to turn on an fluorescent fixture.

In contrast, whenever he goes into the bathroom, he turns on the fluorescent fixture because he knows that 6 75W bulbs uses much more energy than 1 22W bulb.

But she argues he winds up using more energy because of the initial draw on the fluorescent bulb.

He argues that she winds up using more energy because of all those incandescent bulbs, and the heat they create.

I suggested that maybe they replace the incandescent light fixture, but they both said that's not an option right now (they are saving to eventually buy a nice LED one).  Then I thought maybe they should replace the fluorescent one, but I questioned whether or not the cost (and waste if they didn't find a new home for the old fixture) would be worth it.

What do others think?  How much energy does a fluorescent T9 bulb use on start-up?  Should they use the fluorescent fixture for long bathroom visits, but the incandescent for short visits?  How do you define long and short?  Would it be worth it to replace the fluorescent fixture?

All in all, I say they are pretty happily married, if this is their biggest argument! :-)


texts: If the picture loads you should be able to see what I’m talking about. I’m looking to move the 2 speakers that are mounted to the back of my garage over to the covered part of my deck. I would like to run them directly over from where the speakers are mounted now to the top of the post on the deck. Running them below ground is not an option. Distance is approximately 6’. Thought of maybe mounting a plastic pvc box at both ends with the plastic flex conduit glued between them. I don’t want anything rigid to allow for movement of the different structures. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated


texts: Installing a Bidet and now the coupling (connector) leaks. I may have damaged the connecting plastic pipe

texts:
I bought a bidet online. Don't really do handy work, but it looked simple enough. Get everything set up, but the final step, connecting the cold water t adapter, was a bit tough. I was struggling and it kept coming off. Finally got it on and I think I stripped part of the pipe somehow. When I turned the water back on, it was leaking from the underside of the coupler (the "nut" on top of the T adapter).
It does look a bit lopsided, but that's the only way it screws on. That's also the farthest it will go.

I figured there might be a problem with the T adapter, so I removed it and tried screwing on the original connector. Same leak. I think I damaged the plastic pipe by doing this.

What do I do?


texts: I bought a very expensive lamp with a 3-way switch.  I noticed when I got home that it has a red sticker stating 60 watt maximum.   The lowest A1 bulb I could find in 3 way was 30-70-100.  Are there other bulbs that can give me a safe 3-way choice and still be under the 60 watt limit??? I'm stumped.


texts: Do I need to sand my new pressure-treated deck before staining it?

texts: I just got a deck built and pre treated wood was used. Do I need to sand it before I stain it? I live in San Antonio, Texas


texts: How do you plug an unused hole as per the NEC for a liquid tight enclosure?

texts:
I have been looking for a way to seal a liquid tight product using Listed blanking plugs / Cap-offs or similar to comply with the NEC (US National Electrical Code). We wanted to use Conduit Entry Blind Plug CXP724 but it is not UL listed.

The case is aluminium and the suggested method is to use some thing like a H125CAP from Thomas and Betts.

However it is too tall. The threads are to long and this is a problem for the internals of the device.

As this is for the US market I'm way out of my depth (UK/European)
And the difference in names is driving me crazy .... but at least I learnt a thing or two.

As this is the sort of thing an Electrician is likely to meet all the time in building electrical's I thought this might be a good place to ask.


texts: Why does my central heating system get so much air in it?

texts:
We have an old system with a header tank in the loft.  Over the last few days I have bled the radiators many times.  However one section:

Took a few hours until any water got to it,
Its radiators were then filled with air (I bled them again at this point)
The next few times the system was turned on, this section heated up as quickly as the rest of the system.
Now this section is not heating up (I think due to an air lock)

I can’t see any leaks, whenever the pump starts up for the first half an hour the system make a lot of noise.
What do I need to do?

Update:

Closing the valves on the all other radiators, got hot water to the section that was not heating up, but how do we stop this happening again?


texts: How can I remove hard water build up from a washing machine?

texts: What is the best way to remove any sediment build up from having hard water from a washing machine?


texts: Can I install a duct sleeve to eliminate HVAC leaking air between floors?

texts:
I have one 2nd floor bedroom that gets very little forced air A/C and heat. You barely feel the forced air coming out of the baseboard vent.
I've already spent  hours of running snake lines and a small camera to check if the vent is disconnected or plugged. My basement is finished so can't see the entire duct work. I removed a couple of small drop lights in the ceiling and located the round metal duct pipe and felt cold air circulating between the ceiling and floor. Appears that the pipe may be disconnected somewhere in the length that I can't see.
Can I sleeve the existing pipe? I located a branch line (approx. 20ft from baseboard vent to branch connection) which this pipe is part of so some type of flexible tube may work. Any ideas out there would be appreciated with some dos and don'ts. Thanks.


texts: Whole House Surge Protection at Main Panel

texts:
I am planning on installing the CHSPT2ULTRA Type-2 surge protector on my outside main panel.
I am planning on:

turning off main being careful to note that the utility service lines and the terminals they connect to inside the panel remain live
using a knockout closest to neutral bar for the CHSPT2ULTRA
adding a 2-pole 50amp breaker in the open slot under existing breakers
Connecting the White wire to the neutral/ground bus bar. (pictured on right)
Connect the Green wire to the same neutral/ground bus bar.(looks like there are two open terminals)
Connect the Black and Red wire to the 2-pole 50amp circuit breaker added in step 2
go get a beer

Would this be a correct and efficient installation?
Am I missing anything that might improve performance from the surge protector?


texts: How do I mount a shower curtain rod to tile?

texts:
In my new place my shower is tile and has a spring loaded shower curtain rod. I have my curved rod from a previous residence and would like to mount it. I can operate a drill, but I have never gone through tile. The instructions are oddly specific stating I should use a ceramic bit at no more than 100 rpm using oil to lubricate the bit every 30 seconds.

While this seems easy enough, I'm a bit intimidated by the prospect of drilling brand new tile (installed prior to my move-in). I assume once I'm through I put in some plastic anchors and operate business as usual.

Am I missing anything important/obvious?


texts: Replace switch with dimmer for lights on two fans

texts: The two lights are wired to one switch. The fans are wired to the other switch.  Can I install a dimmer just to control the lights and use a one pole since there is only one switch?


texts: Remove old toe touch bathtub drain stopper with no screw

texts:
I have an old toe touch bathtub drain stopper that is stuck in the closed position and doesn't stop the water escaping either. I want to remove the stopper.

I removed the cap the cap by pulling on it and expected to see a slot for a flathead on the rod the cap fits on. But mine doesn't have one, what you see in the photo is a bump.

I tried twisting and pulling the rod hard with channel locks but it didn't move.

The cap says "RAPIDFIT" on the bottom of it. Here's the patent info found from the number on the cap.


texts:
I need a wire nut large enough so that I can bundle seven 14 gauge neutral wires together. I am trying to splice it so I can connect it to my new smart wifi leviton light switch.  I don't know which wire nut size to buy.  The boxes say for example: minimum 2#14 gauge - maximum 2#10 gauge.   My question is, can you tell me which wing nut or brand or size to buy so I can group 7 neutral wires together?
None of the sizing chart on the box says the exact words of "ok to bundle seven #14 gauge wires together.  Which one should I use?


texts: Should I periodically air out the vapor barrier in my crawlspace?

texts:
I have a vapor barrier in my crawlspace which is made of multiple sheets of 6-mil plastic.

One contractor suggested that in the dry months I should pull back the sheets of plastic and allow the dirt beneath to breathe and dry out.

A second contractor said that the first contractor was repeating an urban legend, and that I should not pull back the vapor barrier.

Should I periodically pull back the vapor barrier in my crawlspace?


texts:
I have some experience with making basic furniture (beds, desks, shelving) and installing trim and fittings (hanging doors, replacing kitchens) and I am interested in learning how to get a better finish and make more sophisticated pieces.

What are the best books (or other resources) to learn about the subject, tools, techniques, etc? I'm not necessarily looking for the one best book that covers everything (although that would be nice!). But a selection of good quality ones.

Please only put one book per answer so they can be voted individually.


texts: How safe is having my boiler in my daughter's bedroom?

texts:
I just moved into a new house where the 10 year old boiler is located in the bedroom where my 3 year old daughter sleeps.

I'd like to get an idea of how safe/dangerous this situation is. Could the boiler explode? Could it create a fire in the house? What about a gas leak?


texts: Best way to get rid of ceramic tiles over an asbestos tiled floor

texts: Just moved house and would like to re-do the kitchen. It looks like the previous owner has cemented ceramic tiles straight over an asbestos tiled floor! I'd like to get rid of the ceramic tile without disturbing the asbestos tiles underneath. Is this possible??


texts:
I recently purchased a house that was built in the 1950's and just about half the outlets in the house test with an open ground.  After quite a bit of reading and research I tried to ground 2 of the outlets to a screw in the box, but they still read open ground.  I then used a multimeter to test if the box was grounded, both show that they are not grounded properly as they read 0 volts when I test hot to the box.

I am wondering if there is anything I can do to fix this problem short of calling an electrician?  All of the ungrounded outlets in the house are ones that our important electronics plug into and I would feel better knowing they are grounded and I can use a surge

Tester showing open ground

Box with ground wire but not grounded

Multimeter showing ungrounded box


texts: I need to connect 5 gallon propane tank line to burner line on hotdog cart ... what should I use on thread ?Plummers Paste , Plummers dope , or Teflon tape ? (Male to female)


texts: Best way to run electrical wire behind built-in shelves, with the least patching afterwards?

texts: My main living room wall has a fireplace, surrounded by built-in shelves on either side. The left built-in has a 2-gang outlet in its bottom cavity, which I outlined in red. I'm going to mount my TV above the fireplace (so the little one can't reach it anymore), so I need to add an outlet above the fireplace that extends from the existing outlet. I want to minimize patching in the built-in shelves, which seem to be hardboard over drywall, because I'm not sure how well I can patch hardboard. What would be the least intrusive way to run a wire from this outlet to above my fireplace?


texts: How to find underground cavities below properry?

texts: I purchased land in an area that was near a former mine. From geological maps, I see the official location of the mine is several blocks away from my property, however, locals told me there were rumors the miners made illegal tunnels. Is there any way I can "scan" the ground to identify if there is any mine shaft under the property that could lead to a sinkhole?


texts: Are sheet metal screws required for connecting round duct branches?

texts: I've finished dry-fitting a new branch (6-inch round) from the main furnace duct to a new register.  I've supported each section of duct with metal strap and have begun taping all connections with foil tape.  The tape and strap seems quite sufficient to hold everything together.  Are screws required for every junction?  The other branches in this (older) home are screws-only; no tape.


texts: Deal with stripped washing machine inlet

texts: I have a washing machine with a stripped water inlet. Is there an easy solution to fix this?


texts: Insulating a garage - from the outside or the inside?

texts:
I have a metal garage, which I want to insulate to a level of a well insulated house (if that's possible at all). I live in the are where the coldest it gets is about -15 C (5 F) for a couple of weeks, and about +30 C (86 F) for a couple of weeks in summer.

At the moment the garage is insulated  with an inch of spray foam from the inside - both walls and ceilings.

Could you advice good but affordable material to insulate it with (walls, ceilings and the floor) from the inside? How thick should that be for such climate?

The garage looks looks as such, the floor is made of concrete:

EDIT: in case anyone will need this in the future, I decided to go for 10cm EPS80 polystyrene foam on the floor, 15cm of rock wool on the walls and roof. The garage will be heated by a 6kW wood burning stove, which should be enough during the cold winter months. If you are interested how this installation would cope with the winter please contact me directly or in the comments.


texts: Are there any decorative fire-retardant finishes for a structural steel column?

texts:
I'm having a wall removed in my kitchen and replacing it with a round column.

My Structural Engineer has detailed that we paint it with intumescent paint to give it 1.5 hours fire protection.

My builder informed me that intumescent paint has an unattractive and very lumpy finish.

Can someone suggest a more attractive alternative?


texts: How can I replace a single pole light switch with Z-Wave light switch?

texts:
I'm trying to replace a single-pole switch with a z-wave switch. I'm new to electrical stuff, I understand a little of the terminology just from reading the black & decker wiring book.

I turned of the circuit at the panel, verified with a voltage tester that it was dead, removed the wall plate and pulled the wires out of the box.

Pictures are here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/nathanfarrar/sets/72157655557755759

There are 3x cables coming into the box: 1 on bottom and two on top. It looks like:

all three grounds are twisted together
all three neutrals are twisted together
two of the hot cables are twisted together and pigtailed to a switch terminal
the other hot cable goes to the other switch terminal

I'm not sure why there are three cables since this is just a single switch going to a single light. There is an outlet on the wall below, maybe that has something to do with it?

I'm trying to figure out exactly how I should connect this new switch up. Any advice (geared towards a complete novice) would be much appreciated, and definitely any basic/generic/practical/troubleshooting advice & suggestions would be a great help.

Edit:

Per bib's advice, I tested the individual lines ... and drew up how it is, and how I think the circuit should be rewired with the new switch:

I have some wall-nuts (push connectors), but no electrical wire ... I'm not sure what to get for wire ...

Edit 2:

Wiring it up, hopefully I'm not doing stupid things. First time I've done this, so I probably am.

Edit 3: Wheeeeeee, it works!


texts: steel poles with pine shelving - how to fix?

texts:
I have little setup that i didnt properly think about it! rush job.

I have four Galvanised poles with four pine shelves (900x220x20) sitting on gate-eye tube clamps. The poles go through the wood on the corner after i cut the holes. Pipe is 33.7mm, i cut the holes 35mm thinking the wiggle room would help. It has not.

they just rest on top and as you can guess the whole thing is unstable and joggles around.

Without getting a bit more pipe and fixing the top to the wall (i rent, not allowed) how could I make the structure more secure.


texts: How to estimate the right size furnace for my house

texts:
I estimated the BTU for a new furnace for my house to be around 62,000 BTU. My Trane XR 90 furnace is 80,000 BTU. The square footage of my house is 1040 sq ft. Is a furnace over 18,000 BTU overkill for my house?
Also 3 companies in town stock Lennox parts. Just wondered how the Armstrong Air-A951 furnaces rate.
And are they hard to get parts for?


texts:
My weed eater primer/gas line has more air in it than I think it should. It'll begin to start, but I don't think it's getting enough gas to keep going.

What's the best way to get the extra air out?


texts:
I try to make one of my cabinet wall a chalkboard, but the roller brush was small and left quite a bit of brush mark. Does anyone know how to get it smooth out?

This is the paint mark after third coat.


texts: Can I tap into an exterior light fixture to connect different things

texts: I just ran mc cable to a exterior light fixture(dusk to dawn one) from an exterior gfci outlet (which is outside near ground level), I'd like to put and outlet, switch and/or lights in attic close to cable by exterior light, can I wanted to have junction box so I could run the cable up there, could I get power from the light fixture(in attic exterior) to run to a junction box, then use that box for my switch, lights, etc?


texts: Can deterioration of chipboard damaged by steam be arrested?

texts:
I have a built-in dishwasher, just below a kitchen worksurface made of Melamine Faced Chipboard.

Steam released when opening the dishwasher at the end of a cycle has started to cause the chipboard to delaminate.

There is an aluminium protection strip, put there by the original professional installer.  This has protected the surface for the past six years.

If the board were soaked and swollen, then it would clearly be a write-off.  However, the damage is slight and, as it is the only bit of damage in the entire kitchen, I would rather not have to replace it if it can be avoided.

Could I glue a protective strip to the underside of the worksurface?  Is so, what material and what adhesive would provide the best protection?

As an aside, in the meantime, we have stopped using the dishwasher.  This will allow the chipboard to become fully dry before any work is attempted.


texts: Installing 200amp service in my old house

texts: New 200amp meter box from Consumers Energy to a GE 200amp 240V transfer switch box to my 200amp Sq. D Homeline breaker box. Do I bring my new ground cable into my breaker box and do I use the bonding screw in the breaker box or in the transfer switch box?


texts: How do I fix my trim that wasn’t sanded well

texts: Trim that was painted was not sanded well and now we have bumps on the painted trim, how do I fix this?!


texts: What can cause a never-frozen indoor copper drain pipe to crack?

texts:
The 1-1/2" copper waste pipe than runs from our kitchen just up and cracked two days ago along its length, and for no apparent reason.

The crack is in a section of pipe that runs vertically through the kitchen floor down into the basement, where it connects to an angled length of pipe (two 45-degree elbows) and then a section of pipe that connects to cast iron sewer pipe (lead and oakum seal).

I would venture to say that this cracked pipe is from the 1970s (when former owners remodeled the kitchen) and that the section of copper pipe (which didn't crack) going into the cast iron hub dates from around 1948-49, when the house was built.

Could the crack have been  the result of twisting forces when the pipe connection was made to the garbage disposal beneath the sink? Or does copper waste pipe just eventually give out, perhaps because of corrosion over a period of 50 years?


texts: Dishwasher leaving residue, needing frequent cleaning

texts:
I'm looking for any ideas about how to get my dishwasher working better. Right now I need to take it apart and clean out a filter each week, but this filter is not easily removed (~8 screws) and did not ever need cleaning in the past. Even after running the dishwasher empty I have observed this filter getting a bit of gunk in it. After cleaning, it works well and gradually gets more clogged up, by the end of the week there's soapy residue left on the dishes.
Some bad choices made leading up to having this issue:

running the dishwasher with juicer parts that were packed full of apple pulp, causing the bottom of the dishwasher to be full of standing water and the first time I observed the permanent filter being clogged

trying different more eco friendly soaps which was the first time we observed dishes not getting clean and soapy residue remaining

taking apart the dishwasher and noticing one of the gaskets did not fit clearly back into place, I think it's right now but liable to be wrong

Some things I've tried:

running the dishwasher empty with vinegar

running the dishwasher empty

The dishwasher is a Frigidaire FPHD2491KF0
Please see the pictures on this post. Appreciate any ideas about things to try!

above: inside of dishwasher and the problem area

above: cleaned the filter, and then ran an empty cycle with vinegar and this grime showed up

above: the filter that's difficult to remove, after a week of usage

above: confusing o ring, it doesn't seem to sit right in there and its not obvious to me how it should fit

above: it seems too big to fit into the groove in there, I regret having taken this apart

above: under the sink, for context


texts:
I bought some standard American Craftsman screens (Anderson) from Home Depot.  The frame is aluminum and white.

I'd like to paint the frame to match the wood trim and vinyl door frame.

How should I prepare the surface for painting so the paint adheres properly and should I buy a specific type of paint?


texts: What is the glue stuff you use to seal a glass shower panel to the tub?

texts:
I've got a frameless shower enclosure (I think that's what it is called) and the transparent glue/seal between the glass and the tub is peeling off.  What is it? I'm guessing some kind of transparent silicone but my search-foo isn't working properly and I can't find it.

(I'm not talking about the hard plastic "sweep" that goes under the movable glass door.  I'm talking about a very thin bead of transparent stuff along the boundary between glass and tub - as shown by the obligatory hand drawn red marks on the image below.)

P.S. If you've got any tips on how to replace this stuff properly I would be happy to read them in your answer!


texts: Can we capture the hot, humid air from a gas-powered clothes dryer during winter?

texts:
During winter we run a gas-powered heater and evaporative humidifier to maintain indoor air quality.

Meanwhile, every day (big family!) we run a gas-powered clothes dryer which dumps hot, humid air outside.

Are there any gas-powered dryers that are so efficient that they can be vented indoors (like vent-free fireplaces)?  Or is there a way to split the combustion vent from the dryer vent stream so the former goes outdoors and the latter can be redirected into the central air handler?

Or is the amount of energy spent on the dryer inconsequential compared to what a 98% AFUE central gas heater wastes?


texts: LED light bulb flickering in socket, incandescent works fine

texts:
I have a couple of outdoor light sockets with built in motion detectors. These seem to work as you'd expect with regular incandescent bulbs- you can set a timer for how long you want them to be on when motion is detected and they light up fine.

When replacing them with LED bulbs however they blink rapidly instead of staying on. I'm not talking about a 50hz buzz or whatever, they completely power off and on rapidly, almost like they are trying to strobe. The blinking is erratic, it will go for 10 seconds then go dark completely, then blink again for varying amounts of time. I see this same behavior with LED bulbs in both of the sockets, which are the same brand and model of motion detector outdoor light sockets.

The bulbs are Verbatim A19 6-Pack Warm White 3000K LED Bulb, Replaces 60W, Non-Dimmable 99072 if that matters.

I want to replace everything in the house with LED, but not sure how to make these two sockets work correctly. Suggestions?


texts: Is it possible to run an HVAC duct through a floor joist?

texts: i understand that the maximum size hole I can put through a 9" floor joist is 3". But if I add a 5" booster fan would it be possible to retain proper air flow and route this duct through the joist using a 5" to 3" reducer?


texts: Can I have a NEMA 14-30 outlet on a 50 amp breaker?

texts:
I'm having an electrician install a new circuit in my garage. I don't currently have a Tesla or other high powered car, but I might in the future, so I want to have the wiring capable of handling a NEMA 14-50 plug, so presumably 6/4-guage wiring.
However, currently I only need to have a 240v 30amp plug for some equipment, so I'm planning to have NEMA 14-30 plugs installed at the end. Is this allowed to be installed on a 50-amp breaker circuit?
I know that regular 120v 20-amp breakers are allowed to have 15-amp outlets installed. But I don't know if a NEMA 14-30 plug can be installed on a 50-amp circuit.
Alternatively, could I have a 30-amp breaker installed and then later upgrade it to a 50 amp breaker and a NEMA 14-50 plug myself without requiring any new inspections or permits?


texts:
I'm in the process of buying a home. I had it inspected by a home inspector and a termite guy. They found that the part of the crawl space under the kitchen was too low to the ground to access. They said that anything could be in there since they couldn't get into it to see.

My real estate agent says many houses have inaccessible crawl space areas. She seems to think its not a big deal. Should I be concerned? How would I know if I had termites down there, and how could they be treated?


texts: U.s. boiler / Burnham boiler alterations

texts:
i have a 203ncl-tei2 boiler installed in danvers Massachusetts. Regular elevation. This boiler also has a failed tejurland (universal control) powerventer motor on it that is only humming, not spinning. Looked for a dead animal, or nest and checked for free spinning of the squirrel cage it was fine. Its installed 3 feet from outside wall on the verticle, (installed wrong also has 2 seperate 90° bends after the venter, not my issue but may have caused the motor to fail). Ontop of the boiler we have a factory automatic damper assy.

So the 2nd part of the problem is I noticed the tei in the model number and assumed this ment i should expect to see a tejurland "universal" power venter installed and i do. I assume because its a universal control unit thats where they went wrong. This unit is atleast 200$ cheaper here than the model burnham uses.  I call burnham and ask what the original power venter model number is and they tell me what some pros may already know, (i didnt), that the tei2 is actually (t)taco, (el)elivation, (2) 2 is 2,000 ft

.Note:he was not.100% sure about the el. He was definetly sure PV would be in the model number and it was not tejurland. There is no chimney on this house, never was. Power venter wall thimble outside is very old definetly older than the 1 year old motor that failed. Burnham also said this is not a boiler that can be converted to a powerventer which is sometging i do not understand. He said if it does not have pv in the model number it should not have one. I have in the past converted a boiler with a factory reccomended power venter after a customer lost the chimney. I called and got lucky they had a option for it. I do not remember manufacturer but do remember also seeing it in the install manual as an addendum or seperate manual.

Is this a fact?

Anyone have experience with this?

What are the ramifications of an elevated boiler installed at sea level?

If i can not find another awnser, i will havemto tell customer they need a new boiler or i will have to walk away.

Why do they not just make an orifice kit for elevated boilers to work properly at higher elevations? Is it because they have to add another section to the boiler so it can put out the same  b.t.u.?  I know there is a reason. Seems like smaller orifice would fix the air fuel ratio along with a regulator adjustment. Its to simple of an awnser knowing that manufacturers make a complete different boiler for higher elevations.

!


texts: Is it possible to convert a 3 way switch circuit into two 3 way circuits?

texts: I am finishing my basement and I'm basically splitting the basement in half to keep half as a storage area.  I currently have 4 lights in the basement wired as shown in the first diagram.  I want to control the finished and unfinished lights separately.  Do I need to pull a new circuit, or can I share the power between the two light circuits as in the second diagram?  I don't know if NEC code allows for light circuits to be shared in parallel, but I believe there will be a problem if both sets of lights are turned on at the same time... i.e. voltage drop, path of least resistance.


texts: No voltage detected at black wire, voltage detected only at red wire coming from ceiling outlet

texts:
Moved into a new construction, I was recently trying to install a ceiling fan. There are 4 wires coming out of the ceiling outlet box,

Black wire
White wire
Red wire
Bare copper wire

Wired the ceiling fan as instructed, black from ceiling to black from receiver, however this doesn't work.
My assumption was that black wire from ceiling is hot. When I use a non contact voltage tester, there is no voltage detected at the black wire, there is voltage detected only at the red wire. Is this normal?


texts: How can I patch a large hole in a particle board with something removable?

texts:
I live in an apartment building on the second floor, and there is a strong smell of cigarette smoke coming through a vanity. After removing the drawers, I saw that there was a roughly 5x12" hole sawed out of the wood on the inside of the vanity to allow access to the shower water pipes. Unfortunately I believe the odors are coming through this hole, even though it's covered with a piece of cardboard and duct tape.

Is there any way I can patch this hole with something that would stop the smell, but still be removable so that the pipes can still be accessed easily?


texts: How to fix plywood subfloor butt joint that is off by 1/8" before installing hardwood flooring

texts:
My title pretty much asks the question, but for slightly more detail:  I am prepping to put in some 3/4" hardwood flooring on the upstairs (2nd floor) of my 1970s house.  My subfloor has had only carpet on it for the life of the house (I'm pretty sure) and is in pretty good shape.  However, there are a few plywood butt joints that are not flush with each other - they are off by as much as 1/8" (see photo.  yes, that's a Lego to show scale - it was sitting nearby).

here's a more zoomed out photo

I'm wondering how best to fix the problem - I'm no expert, but even I can tell that hardwood flooring will not sit nicely across that 1/8" height difference.

The plywood is nailed down, not screwed, and one idea is to put some screws in and see if that tightens it up.  I thought I'd ask the collective wisdom on here before doing that.

Another interesting and possibly salient detail is that the plywood subfloor is nailed only every 4' which I am pretty sure is because there are not typically-spaced floor joists but instead are larger beams spaced every 4'.  Evidently, these beams used to be exposed to downstairs but were drywalled over before we moved in to create a ceiling.  So I'm also pretty sure that there is more than just a single layer of plywood in the subfloor - I don't know what's underneath it, but it's perfectly solid in the middle between the beams.


texts: Home light switch circuit with 5 switches

texts:
I am new to the amazing world of electronics and am starting out small.  I think...

Early 2010, the wife and I bought a house that was built in 1979. Now I started replacing light switches and encountered something that appears to me as a weird setup.

This is a simple schematic of what I managed to figure out so far:

I know this makes no sense at all. What I try to explain is that I have 5 switches that turn on the same light. Each switch has 3 wires, a red, black and blue wire. The light bulb has 2 wires and a ground wire.

The Switches
I can't figure what kind of switches these are and I can't find the location where the yellow wire from the light bulb is connected to the hot wire.

Below is a picture I've taken from the switch.

The mechanism works like this: When the button is pushed down, I measure zeroish resistance between the top-left and the bottom connection point. Once I release it though the resistance is infinite again. All the other connections always measure infinite resistance.

Any pointers on the type of switches or how this could all work is greatly appreciated! I want to learn how all this stuff works and I have a multimeter to measure current/resistance and a lot of other things I don't know much about.

Update
Maybe I shouldn't have drawn the schema as it adds to the confusion but the point is that I have 5 switches with each having 3 wires connected. A red one, a blue one, and a black one. From what I've measured:

Between blue and red: 230V
Between blue and black: 230V
Between red and black: 0V (These short circuit if you would connect them)

The button on these switches is indeed sort-of like a pushbutton. You push it down and it comes back up automatically. From what I've measured is when pushed down there is no resistance but once it's back up (released), there is again infinite resistance.

What I would like to know is how could this be done? What sort of switch is this as I have no clue. A cross switch would need four wires and I only have three.


texts: Does this GFCI need a sticker for code-compliance?

texts: I replaced a 2-prong outlet with a GFCI, wired as shown (connected ground wire coming into the box to the metal box as well as the ground screw of the GFCI, black wire to brass terminal & white to silver). The box has no separate grounding wire and wires are only in Romex, not metal conduit. Multimeter shows hot and neutral are correct. Later, I realized I never checked whether the ground wire was actually grounded at the service box. To be code compliant, do I need to apply the "no equipment ground" sticker regardless, or only if the bare copper wire coming in is not grounded at the service box?


texts: Siemens Spring Clip and Bus Bar not compatible!

texts:
According to a Siemens customer service. He checked his stock too and it's like that, and it was supposed to be normal. Is it really normal to have the spring clip and bus bar stab only having electrical contacts at the bottom? He wrote:
"I have checked older GFCI 20amp 2 pole breaker that has same structure that you show & fits the same as your photos indicate. The surface contact of the breaker contacts to the load center stabs seems to be sufficient & has not changed and there have been no reports of failures."

In 1998 and 2010. Siemens QP were recalled due to one reported failure. So do they have to expect smoke and fire before it is considered as one report? Does anyone who have accessed to more knowledgeable Siemens engineers please ask them about this. Harper? Thanks.

This is a more scientific test. I used a feeler gauge blade and inserted the thinnest (size 0.0015") in between the bus bar and spring clip:

You can see only the contacts at the bottom of the spring clips and bus bar are connected. This is the same in all sides. Do you still agree that there is no problem? This can cause arcing, heat, burning, and fire. I think Siemens made a mistake. Their regular QP breakers fit perfectly (You can't insert any blade in any part).

How do I take this to the attention of Siemens? Their customers service said the breaker is a listed as compatible with the enclosure based on the literature but actual examination didn't support it.


texts: What kind of pump would I need to supply my trailer with water from a nearby creek?

texts:
The water has to come out of the creek, up 30 feet to the pump, then about 100 yards to the holding tank. I am not sure how much higher the holding tank will be above the pump, but I do know that it is about 30 feet above my trailer on a hill side. I was going to try to just use a gravity feed for shower and sink. It's an RV so I don't need too much pressure. I also wanted to have a couple of hoses for garden use back down near the pump.

What size and kind of pump do I need?  Should I have enough water pressure at the trailer and hoses? Is there anything else I should do or know?


texts:
I have an 80 year old basement concrete floor that recent had asbestos tiles and mastic removed. It is in good shape, with a few hairline cracks.  I  am planning on painting it. The basement is dry, but humid in the summer. I will use it as a laundry room/crafting/doing projects on the work bench. I see that a good bonding primer is recommended.

My questions are:

I am on the fence as to whether I should use an epoxy paint or a porch and floor enamel(or another enamel type) paint.  I want the paint job to last many years!
Should I put a concrete sealer wet look to help seal the paint? Whatever I put down, I want it easy to mop.
There is about 1/4 space between the concrete floor and the concrete wall, should I seal this with something before painting?  Is is better to leave it open to give the floor a chance to "breath" If it better to seal it up,  what product is best for caulking concrete?


texts: how to repair large crack going down length of garage?

texts:
My garage floor has a large crack in it that runs the entire length of the garage (approx. 20'). The crack is about 1/3 the way into the center of the garage. and a slab has sunken. my brother in law suggests I just pour self leveling concrete onto the floor and raise it about 2-3". I'm afraid that if I did that, whatever cracked the floor might just cause whatever I put down to crack also. A website said that I can put something down over the old floor, like plastic sheeting, to physically separate the old floor from the newly poured concrete and that will somehow prevent the crack from going into the new floor. I've also read online that I may need to rip up the entire floor and start from scratch.
I want to turn my garage into a second living room/mancave with polished concrete floors.
Can you offer me any advice?


texts: How can I patch the ceiling and rehang a shower curtain rod?

texts: I have glass tiled walls in my bathroom, so opted to hang the shower curtain rod from the ceiling to protect the tiles. It looked great, until a house guest recently slipped, and grabbed the curtain for support. This pulled the teardrop bracket out of the ceiling, leaving a small tennis ball size hole. I would like to patch the ceiling, and then reattach the shower curtain rod bracket to ceiling.


texts: Tiling over 1/2in subfloor with 1/2in Hardiebacker

texts:
I just pulled up the hardwood floor in the house I just bought, and found that there is 1/2in plywood subfloor. House was built in 1982. Joists are 2x10 16"OC.

The room is 16x13.

The person who built the house used 1/2 subfloor throughout the house.

In my kitchen, is it OK to put thinset on top of the 1/2in subfloor, then 1/2in hardiebacker on top of that, then porcelain tile? I spent most of the day reinforcing the floor from the basement with small pieces of 2x4's between the joists and along the floor seams. Then went over the entire floor to secure it tightly to the joists with 3in nails from the nail gun.

The only issue is if we put down 5/8 on top of the 1/2 subfloor, then thinset, then 1/4 hardiebacker, then tile, the floor is almost an inch higher than the dining room floor coming off the kitchen. Not sure what else to do since the entire house is using 1/2in subfloor.


texts: Mounting Full Motion Mount on a Single Stud

texts:
I've seen this question regarding a sheet metal stud, but my plan and situation are a bit different.

I am curious if ananyone thinks this sounds secure:
I have a full motion flat screen wall mount for "up to 70 in." televisions. My tv is 50 inches and weighs approximately 50 lbs. The mount weighs maybe 15 lbs and is only 16 inches long (studs over my fireplace are 22 inches apart). There is however, one stud directly in the center.

Is it safe to attach the mount to the single stud with two 2.5 inch lag bolts at the top and bottom center, and 100 lb rated drywall anchors on all four corners?


texts: How to measure exterior track style storm windows, for replacement?

texts:
I need to replace my storm windows. They are old 3-track windows. The thing is I don;t know how to measure them, should I measure the entire assembly from edge to edge, or should I measure the actual window pane assembly, or should I measure the main window opening?

Here is a picture of the actual windows.


texts: How do you properly clean hardwood floors?

texts:
I've been cleaning my hardwood floors with all sorts of cleaners for the past 2 years and this has created a thin whitish film covering the floor that I can't wash away. I've tried scrubbing with a dry cloth as well as with plain water, but it won't go away. I've read that lots of people have used white vinegar, but I am a little suspicious about it.

I would like to know how can I get rid of this film as well as how can I prevent it from happening in the future. What is the proper way to clean the floors to preserve the shine they came with?

I've also read about Murphy's Oil Soap. Should I try this as well?


texts: Hello I have a 4 bulb fixture that im working with. It currently is set up with one ballast for each bulb. I bought a philips EB-C 136 TL-D 220-240 ballast to go back. My bulbs are 18watts. The diagram says you can do either one 36 watt or 2 18 watt bulbs. So what happens if I just hook up one 18 watt. It will just be over driven and brighter, or does the ballast adjust?


texts:
How can I cut the arc as shown in the photo?
I have a circular saw.  I have a jig saw.
I thought I might calculate the center of the arcs circle and (using a line tied to my circular saw) cut the curve on a clamped down 1 x 4.
I don't have a very steady hand when it comes to using my jigsaw so I don't want to draw an arc and then cut it.
How do professionals cut arcs?
The arc I want to cut looks like this:

Source


texts: Can dywall vinyl j-channel be used on exterior siding?

texts: I am having a hard time finding replacement j-channel for my vinyl siding. I am installing new windows, taller than originals, and this means my vertical j-channel I have now won't be long enough. Can i use drywall bead j-channel? I don't see a difference other than no nail fin on the drywall channel. I plan to re-side the house in a few years but not in the budget for awhile.


texts: Best way to fix excess stain on hard wood floor? Or just poly it?

texts:
I stained our hardwood floors one week ago and have let it dry but unfortunately all of it wasn't absorbed.  I didn't notice the excess until a few days after I let it dry, and it's quite noticeable:

The wood is roughly 90 years old.  I sanded it using 20, then 36, then 80 grit and then stained it.  It is not crazy thick wood so it's not able to absorb too much.

My question: Should I just hand sand using 180/200 grit to get the excess stain off and then LIGHTLY re-stain areas that may look lighter than they should? Or should I just poly it?

I just don't think I can afford to re-sand everything again given the wood's thickness, and I'm ok with some areas that don't look perfect given the old is so old.

Thoughts?


texts: What's the most common cause of A/C refrigerant lines freezing?

texts:
I noticed my house wasn't getting under 75°F this weekend when I had the thermostat set for 70°F. Since I'd done a lot of drywall sanding inside recently, my first idea was to replace the filthy air filter.

My first indication that the air filter wasn't the root cause was when the return didn't have enough suction to hold the air filter in place while I was replacing it.
I went outside to look at the compressor unit and discovered the exposed portion of the refrigerant line running into the house was frozen, but the fan was still running.
The evaporator drain line still had a steady stream of water coming out of it.
After turning everything off and waiting for the line to thaw, I turned the thermostat back on. Cooler air came out of the vents, but it didn't seem to be blowing with much force, and it wasn't as cool as it should be.
I went back outside and discovered the refrigerant line was already frosting up again. At this point it was already dark, so I turned everything back off and slept with the ceiling fan on. :/

Other random notes that may or may not play a factor:

The AC unit had been sitting idle the past 3 days since we had nice weather in the mid-70's last week.
I mowed the lawn next to the condenser unit the day I noticed it stopped working. However, I was bagging the grass clippings, so nothing should have been blown into the unit.

Any ideas on the root cause of the icing and lower air flow? I wouldn't think the two would be connected normally. Is it something as simple as low refrigerant levels? I plan on going to look more closely at it after work today. What are some other things I should pay attention to?

UPDATE: I checked the system after work today and decided to give it one more chance after I couldn't find anything wrong with it. After a few hours, it had brought the inside temperature down from 80°F to 75°F. I periodically checked the refrigerant line for freezing, but it never got much colder than 60ish degrees.

I think the root cause was the air filter, and that I didn't allow enough time for the line to thaw last night.

UPDATE 2: Maybe I drew conclusions too soon - I just checked the refrigerant line and discovered frost on it again. The inside temperature was at 72°F while the outside was at 66°F. I think pumping warm air to a cooler outside temperature may have contributed to the icing, but I'm not completely sure. (And if you think I'm crazy for running the AC when I could just open the window, you'd think twice too if you saw how many bugs swarm my porch light and windows every night. Dozens of them somehow find their way past the screens if I open the windows.) I plan on running it again tomorrow during the day and monitoring the refrigerant line temperature every few hours. If it freezes up again, I think I'm going to cave and call a repair guy.

UPDATE 3:  I totally forgot to follow up on this. It froze again, so I called an HVAC repair guy. He checked the system, added refrigerant, and problem solved. I think the bill came out somewhere around $150 for the service call fee and refrigerant costs.


texts:
I've been trying to determine if and how siding (aluminum in my case) should be sealed along the bottom edge at the foundation wall.

I've found some small gaps that last summer let ants in and I'm thinking that is how mice are getting into my attic as well.
I may not be searching for the answer correctly. Most results are about sealing your house before siding or sealing around windows.

Haven't found the rules for sealing at the foundation wall.

I figure it has to been done correctly fore water and moisture control.
Anyone know the right way of doing this?

Thanks


texts: Fixing floor border in the gap between hardwood floor panel and tiles

texts: We have recently ripped out old carpets and replaced them with wooden floor panels. In some places there is a gap between the wooden floor panels and tiles ( in the chimney).... How do I fix floor borders in these gaps? Do I fill the gap with some product and then nail in the borders? Or do I use a adhesive product to just stick the border in place?


texts: My contractor installed wires for an extra outlet in my kitchen island that I do not want.  Can I just leave that wire in the cabinet and not install the outlet?


texts: Cover or Do Away with the Brick Ledge on Foundation Wall

texts:
We have a brick veneer on the front face of the foundation wall that goes down about 4 bricks in depth on that foundation by way of a brick ledge, making that foundation top side smaller than the rest of the other foundation walls.

That side's sill plate is thus only a 2x4, unlike the rest, which are 2x8. We are rebuilding on that foundation, and need to get that front to have a uniform sized sill plate. What would be a structurally sound approach to covering that brick ledge so that we can get a 2x8 sill plate on top?

Do we need to remove the bricks, then add cement, or can we pour over & cover the brick flush? Is that structurally sound? I've searched but couldn't readily find a similar situation. Please help! Thank you.


texts:
I've recently re decorated my spare room but there were some wet spots on one of the walls. I primed it as to prevent it from bleeding through and then painted over it.

You can see the different shade though and I tried painting over the entire wall and it's still slightly noticeable?

Any ideas?

I'm using a roller and I used a roller to begin with and
It's the exact same paint (Matte)


texts: I live in Zone 5. Frost level is 36".  I need to install a retaining wall against a bank that is about 30'.  I am wondering how deep or wide of footing I should install. Retaining wall will need to be 6-8 ft tall.


texts: Plugging household device into T-Blade extension cord does not work

texts:
I have a 50Amp to 15/20Amp T-Blade extension cord. Here is the link.

The 50Amp end is plugged into an unused Stove outlet.

When I plug in a surge protector the extension cord does not seem to work. The 3-prong surge protector does not have a T-blade connector. I also tried plugging in 2-prong fan, but this doesn't work either.  No household device that I tried works.

If I use a Voltmeter I see 118VAC at the end of the extension cord. When I plug in the surge protector the protected and grounded lights both turn off. These lights are normally on when plugged into a standard wall outlet.  However, I see 118VAC when I plug the voltmeter into the surge protector outlets.

Am I wrong to expect to be able to plug in household devices to this extension cord?

Does the device need to have a T-blade connector?

UPDATE:
The measured voltage between the 50A socket ground and a nearby 15A socket ground is 0.01V.

@brhans is right. When I measure between the T and the straight it is 105V (nothing plugged in) and changes to 240V (w/ fan plugged in).

I am assuming that he is also correct that a neutral line is missing.

What is the correct way to fix this?


texts: Ran in to a whirlpool tub with a heater on 14.2 wire hooked up on a 20 amp breaker that’s all that’s on the line with a gfi plug any problems


texts: Can you tell me if Neutral wire is burned?

texts:
We have checked all the outlets and light switches and they all work.
The power went out in three rooms and breaker did not trip. We took pictures of the breaker wires and noticed this one wire looked discolored. Do you think this maybe the reason the power is out? Does the wire look burned?


texts: How can I help pantry cabinets stay cool?

texts:
My pantry doesn't have air conditioning, and recently I noticed (using a cheap wall-mounted liquid thermometer) that the pantry itself got up to 85°f degrees (it was >100°f outdoors). I don't know what temperature it got within the cabinets, but it got high enough to melt some home-made lard.

I'm guessing the fluctuating heat in there isn't good for long-term food storage. Is there something I can do that'll magically make the cabinets cooler than the rest of the room? Maybe some kind of insulating interior liner, or a special interior paint? The cabinet doors aren't airtight.

Currently they are regular kitchen cabinetry, though I coincidentally am tearing out those cabinets and putting in home-made floor to ceiling cabinets next month (mostly so I can re-purpose the kitchen cabinets in the kitchen itself), so if the "fix" happens to require more intensive work on the cabinets, well, now's the perfect time.

(I wanted to tag this question 'pantry' but that tag isn't available and I lack the rep to create it)


texts: Is it safe to remove/trim jack studs to make a door opening wider?

texts:
We purchased a very expensive (at least for us 5,000+) entry door pair as replacement for an existing single door and sidelights.  Today when the door contractor came to install the doors the opening was too small by 3/4 of an inch (the door contractor had measured for the doors prior to purchasing, these were custom made doors and are fiberglass that look like wood with full light beveled glass).

They suggested removing or cutting down the jack studs.  I am not comfortable with this.  Is this a good solution? This is a load bearing wall.  I have postponed installation to research this. Advice?


texts: My homes previous owner had built an addition to the home which then made the crawl space access inside the home. I wanted to seal that off and then create a new exterior crawl space access. But I dont know where to start. Are there regulations on exterior accesses? Who do I call to do this kind of job?


texts: suspending a 36x26 solar panel on a single 4x4x12 post (9' above ground 3 feet into the ground)?

texts:
I'd like to suspend a 36x26x1 aluminum solar panel 9 feet above ground on a SINGLE 12' 4x4 timber with some 2x4s at the top. I'm in central Florida.

Will it be too top heavy? wind issues?

it's a used panel that cost me $75. Not looking to invest a lot of money or time in this or especially take up any more real estate on the ground than i need to.


texts: Weird wiring in a 4-connection switch configuration for ceiling fan/light

texts:
I bought a new fan with an LED light, so the dimmer switch connected to the old fan has to be switched. When I pulled out the switch, I found a confusing set up.

Wiring instructions

The current wiring colors don't quite match. Currently it is hooked up as:

Switch's B/W wire is joined to a Red and White coming from the box
Switch's Blue wire is joined to another Red coming from the box
Switch's Black wire is joined to a Black wire coming from the box
Ground is as expected.

Here is an photo of the current switch:

The 4-connection switch in the other room is wired as expected, however, the white wires don't have the expected black tape on the ends.

My question is: what is the appropriate way to replace this custom dimmer/fan switch with a standard 3-connection switch - which wires go where and what to do with the extra red wire?


texts: Efficiency of a heat pump water heater during the winter

texts:
In my understanding, heat pump water heaters pump energy from the room around the water tank into the water.

Clearly, this must be energy efficient in the summer time, especially if I am using AC anyway. The heat pump water heater may actually cool the house a bit.

However, in the winter time the savings are not so obvious. If I am using a heater to heat the home, including the water tank room, then I don't see how there can be any savings. Instead of generating heat using a coil in the water, I generate heat in another area of the house which gets pumped into the water. A joule is a joule and I need to get it from somewhere. It seems to me that if I am actively heating the house, and lets assume everything is electric, then a heat pump water heater cannot be more efficient than a traditional one.

Am I missing something in the winter case?


texts: Toilet weak flush. The water in the bowl swirls, but it didn't flush stuff into the pipe

texts:
Updated on 07/Dec

More pictures and I kind of knowing why. The last picture is when it's flushing. I found the water only comes out from the top of the rim, and there's no water comes out from the bottom of the rim. This makes the direction of the flushing water can't really PUSH the stuff into the pipe. I also have a look at other toilets, they behave the same. Maybe I worry in the wrong direction.

Updated on 06/Dec

I tried to unclog it by toilet auger. It worked a bit since I pulled out something dirty stuck in the pipe. I did it three times and also lubricate it with dishwasher and hot water. However, the flush is still weak. What I can reckon is, the water in the bowel will be replaced by the flush water. It's the stuff in the bowel didn't get flush down into the pipe. Might be an issue with the toilet itself? Maybe all I need to do is to change a new toilet?

EDIT:

Attached more pictures of my toilet bowl.

Here is the video.

I put some toilet papers in the bowl and flush it. From the video, it shows the toilet papers just kept swirling in the bowl and there's no absorption happened to pull things into the pipe.

First, I'm sure the water level in the tanks has been set to maximum.

I also have tested this toilet by quickly pouring a big bucket of water to see whether the flush happens. Unfortunately, no matter how much water I pour, no flush happens. What I saw is a lot of water in the bowl and the water level quickly comes back to its origin. No absorption happened. Unlike the bucket test video I saw.

I  then doubted might be a blocker in the pipe causing the flush is weak. I pour drain unblocker liquid into the bowl and flush it after waiting for a while. However, the flush is still very weak.

Actually, the plumbers came to here two weeks before and told me it's the tank cause the problem. They replaced the tank, but the problem still exists and they just disappeared and not answer my call. (It's another sad story)

£400 for the plumber and they didn't fix it. I don't want to be scammed again. I googled and studied in order to let myself understand the situation a bit more. But after trying all the possible solutions, nothing really works.

I came here for seeking advice and help. Any thought is very much welcome and appreciated. Thank you very much.


texts: What is the function of the device in the picture. Unfortunately, I did not make a full diagram of how it was wired, but the hot and the corresponding neutral were connected  by crimp-on leads on the right side. The hot was downstream from a lutron dimmer and there were three other 14/2 wires in the box which I'm not sure where they led to.


texts: Clamped flexible rubber pipe/hose coupling won't seal completely

texts: This is a coupling between the ABS pipe from a sump pump and a check valve so needs to be removable. Does one apply any sealant to make a leak-proof joint? I tried different tightness on the hose clamp, replacing the hose clamp altogether, and rotating the coupling, none of which is able to seal the joint completely. The leak seems to move a little when I rotate the coupling, but there is no visible cracks on it or the pipe.


texts: Need to know the name of this toilet wall faucet (thing)

texts:
I moved to a new place and trying to install the washing machine. The wall faucet for water supply in toilet does not seem to have a handle.

I cannot find the name of this type of faucet (not even sure if it is a faucet). Lifehacker, IRC, Google/Bing image searches; none of them has yielded anything useful.

Any detail about this [object] would be much appreciated.


texts: All my wall outlets through out the house have constant power whether the switches are on or off. What can I do to make the power to the outlets be controlled by the switches? Jake


texts:
We are in the US. We have a 95% efficient furnace that exhausts to the house in a straight line from the furnace to the wall. We are building an extension to the house and the exhaust will now be a room. So two questions:

Can we move the exhaust vent ourselves? (We are quite handy)?
Does the exhaust need to go in a straight line? Can it have a 90degree bend?


texts: What to use to remove Magnesium sulfate ( palm tree fertilizer) stain on the driveway

texts: need some advice on what to use to remove magnesium sulfate stain from a concrete driveway. I have used ammonia, 30% vinegar but none were effective.


texts: Installing expansion tank at washing machine valve?

texts: I own a condo with a terribly cramped water heater closet (it sits underneath the air handler with about 6 inches of clearance). I need an expansion tank, but it really will not fit in that closet (not to mention I really don't want to have to touch that again after having just changed the water heater). Is it reasonable to tee the expansion tank into the washing machine's cold water valve? My laundry room has a lot more space than where the water heater is, so there's plenty of room to support it, and easy access if I need to change it out.


texts: What are pros/cons of skylight placement?

texts: I have a vaulted ceiling in my living/kitchen area where I'd like to install skylights.  The designer I spoke to suggested two 2'x 4' skylights in the north facing living room, but she didn't seem to have much knowledge on placement other than aesthetics. I'm wondering if there are design guidelines for skylight placement? The north side of course won't get much sun so there is little to no solar gain. The other option is to place the skylights on the southern side, which will get plenty of sun, but could also blind us.  Looking around my neighborhood, I've seen skylights placed on all directions of houses, so it seems there isn't a wrong side of the house for a skylight.


texts: Frigidaire dishwasher m# FDB2410HIS0 door problem

texts:
My Frigidaire model above operates fine through the cycles but the door won’t latch. I have taken the door apart.there is an electric switch control, that must operate the latch, but it is inside the door.
Do I need a new latch, switch, or both?


texts: How do I consistently drive drywall screws to the correct depth?

texts:
Is there a special technique or tool for consistently placing drywall screws correctly?

I'm using a standard Dewalt DWD115K (with no auto-stop mechanism) so I'm usually paranoid of going too deep with screws... which results in stopping the screw before it's completely set in -- and then having additional trouble properly sinking it after that.

I thought maybe a screw guide might help but it didn't...  Is this just something where practice makes perfect?


texts: How long to wait between coats of polyurethane?

texts:
I sanded down a 2 inch old Maple butcher block bowling alley and stained 48 hours ago.  I then applied 2/3 poly to 1/3 mineral spirits and let sit in direct 80 degree sun  from 10-4 pm.  It was totally dry after 2-3 hours.

Is it safe to sand and apply second coat or do I need to wait 24 hours as suggested?

This answer was helpful:
What is the proper procedure to apply multiple coats of Polyurethane?

  It's all about adhesion. When you recoat after 2 hours you get a
  chemical bond between layers. If you let it go longer than that, you
  need to wait 24 hours so it's hard enough to sand and get a mechanical
  bond

However I'm curious if since my table is dry, then it will be a mechanical bond (after only 4-6 hours)


texts: Can I replace the main breaker in an electrical panel with a smaller one?

texts: I have an older 60amp fuse box in a rental property that is wired as a sub panel off my main 100amp service. I would like to upgrade to a new circuit breaker panel so tenants can not pull out the 15amp fuse and up size it. The only box I can find at my local hardware store is rated 100amp (main lug and main breaker). If I replace the 100amp breaker in the box I found with a 60amp breaker would that be fine? I assume that the box is rated up to 100amp but anything lower would work too.


texts: Single phase 120v to split phase 120v (240)

texts:
I have a new boat with an electric stove (240v), it works great on my split phase generator. The dock power is a single phase run thru 2 breakers. Dock original had dual 30 amp plugs, I ran the 2 hots to my 50 amp cord and I understand they are not split phase but I don't run a huge load till I got my new boat.

In my mind I need a 120v -> 240v transformer, then a 240v to split phase transformer to solve my stove problem and have the circuit correct at my current dock.

Is this the solution, or is there a product that can do this?

How much energy am I wasting with the transformers?

The boat is 240v 50amp.

A new stove that can run on propane is $800 so is this worth it?

Thanks for your thoughts.


texts: Inheriting an alarm system in our first house

texts:
My wife and I just bought our first house and it came with an alarm system already installed. It looks like it's active but we didn't get any information on it when buying the house.

What do I need to do to make this alarm system usable?

Is it just a generic systems and I can call up any alarm company and have them activate it?

Also, we currently do not have a landline phone, we just use our cell phones. Will we need to get a landline to use the alarm system?

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

update

Here's the panel


texts: "Moving kitchen sink." 3" vent is located at old location

texts: Moving the kitchen sink including the 3" waste line 6' downstream. 5' of 1 1/2" connects from the sink trap to the 3" waste line. The 3" vent is located at the old location. Will the function properly?


texts: Will salty water from ice melt harm a wooden porch?

texts:
I rebuilt our covered porch out of pressure treated lumber a couple of summers ago. This past summer, we retreated it with Thompson's Water Seal. It's now winter, and we've actually had a cold spell with some snow. We've got some icy patches on the porch and I just scattered some ice melt on it to clear them away. (We're expecting the UPS guy, so I thought I'd be nice.)
I plan on keeping an eye on it during the day today and sweeping the water off to drain it between the deck boards as soon as I've noticed it's melted, but I'm not sure if it is necessary or if it is overkill.
Am I likely to cause significantly more damage to the sealed, pressure treated decking (or worse to the supports underneath that I can't see) by having salty water sitting on them as opposed to the damage that would occur by having plain rain water/snow melt sitting on them?


texts: Wiring a ceiling fan to the house wiring

texts:
My ceiling fan came with black (motor), red(light), white (neutral) and green (ground), but at my home I have: three white together, three black together, one blue and two red together.
What should I do?


texts: Does this 3 prong 250V outlet in the Philippines have two hots and a neutral or hot/neutral/ground?

texts:
The plug claims to be 12A 250V, so I think its a NEMA 6-15R or 6-30R which handle 15 or 30 volts  respectively.

Here is a picture of the outlet:


texts: Bathroom light fixture stopped working, then started working again

texts: 6X 40W lightbulb fixture. Stopped working 5 days ago. Fan still works. Day 6 fixture decided to work again.Any thoughts?


texts:
Does the AAMA Certification label shown here
(source: fayor.com)
imply that the window has been subject to wind and projectile testing?
If so, where can I find the details of that testing?


texts:
I moved into a new place, the tap water here is good except for massive amounts of limescale.

Within a week every pot I have has formed a layer that takes half an hour of scrubbing to get off. It's annihilating my kettle and coffee machine and I don't even want to imagine what it's doing to my washing machine and dishwasher.
Is there an economic way to remove it from my tap water?


texts: Why does the pilot light in my propane heater go out when turned up?

texts: The pilot light goes out on my Heatstar heater when I turn it up to burner 1 setting. It pops a couple of times trying to relight then nothing.


texts:
Hello:I have a Whirlpool Thin Twin Mod # LTE5243DQA,it's about 5-7 year's old.  The washer suddenly stopped while in the rinse cycle with the
tub full of water. I "played" with the Load Size control and used the Reset, which for some reason started the washer.  Is this a sign of further problems, what course of action should I take to prevent a re-occurance?


texts: If a GFCI tester trips a circuit breaker is there a problem

texts:
A home inspection claimed a gfci outlet tripped and would not reset when testing with a receptacle tester's test button. When I looked into this, what happens is that this is tripping the circuit breaker. This outlet is on a 20 amp circuit with an Eaton ground fault breaker type CHGF as shown in the attached photo labeled basement bath.

Other outlets for which the tester does not trip the breaker are on 15 amp circuits with an Eaton combination type AFCI, type CHAF breakers.

Is there a problem with this behavior of the circuit breaker being tripped by the tester, or is that normal for this type of circuit breaker?


texts: What is the best place to put a dehumidifier?

texts:
I just got a  50 pint dehumidifier for my house and I would like to know where would be the best place to put it. The first floor is about ~ 950 sqft. A little drawing to show the floor plan:

When I use my wood stove the basement humidity drops to ~35% while upstairs it stays above 45-50%; temperature on the first floor is about 20-21 °C and basement about 25-27 °C.

When not using it, the humidity downstairs is 45-50% and upstairs 50-55%. Temperature on the first floor is ~18-19 °C and basement about 17-18 °C.

I'm thinking of putting it upstairs close to the stair or to put it downstairs under the hole (kind of air vent) in the floor, the dehumidifier has a fan that pushes air up.

I live in Canada and temperatures can drop to under -20 °C and currently I can see condensation in the windows if the humidity is above 50% and outside it's under 4 °C.


texts: What wood joint can I use to connect railing members over a post?

texts:
For the fence we'll be using 2"x4" pressure-treated wood that will be attached to 4"x4" PT posts with wood screws.

What wood joint should I use so that I don't need to buy any more hardware to make it sturdy?

This is what I originally thought of doing, but the builder says that I would need to add L-brackets on either side of the post to make it stronger.

Then I thought of using a half-lap joint, but the builder says that it would make the sides weaker. Each 2"x4" is about 12 feet.

So he explained that he would use something like this. He would use some special glue between the joins:

My question is: what joint is strongest for this particular scenario? I really don't want to buy more hardware to make it stronger (like the L-brackets).


texts: Shower drain: plunger helps but only momentarily

texts:
The water in my shower doesn't drain properly, so I used the plunger and the problem seemed to be solved. However, the next time someone uses the shower it's the same problem again: water doesn't drain, plunger, water drains.

I wonder what the problem is, because the pipe seems to be clean, otherwise the water wouldn't drain as it does (after using the plunger). But why doesn't the water drain the next time? I was wondering if it has something to do with air in the pipe. But even if this were the case, I wouldn't have any idea how to solve the problem. I'm grateful for any suggestions.


texts:
I would like to install a small sub-panel in my basement. It will be approximately 55-60 feet from the main panel.

I will be running a fridge, some fluorescent lights, and occasionally some small appliances (meat grinder, deli slicer, etc.)

I was thinking a 30 Amp breaker off the main 200 Amp box and running four #8 wires in a 1" PVC conduit. (2 hot 1 neutral 1 ground.)  Am I OK with the #8 wires, or do I have to go to #6?


texts: Has anyone painted a basement floor with an epoxy during winter with success?

texts: I am getting ready to beane doo some black mastic off my floors.  Next I plan on filling any holes (patching), after patching and muriatic acid, epoxy will come next. I have never used an epoxy paint on flooring before and just worry with the temps dropping that it will have an adverse effect on the paint.  I read the instructions and they say 60 degrees or greater will suffice.  I temped the floor and the air and it is at about 70 degrees.  Again just wondering if anyone has had success doing this in winter and if this is something that should wait for a warmer season?


texts: How do you navigate an unfinished attic?

texts:
My attic only has plywood around our HVAC. The rest is just covered with cellulose insulation. How do people get around their unfinished attics?

I've been up with a flashlight trying to judge where the beams are, but I know it's just one missed step before my legs are hanging through the ceiling (it happened to a friend).


texts: Contractor installed exterior lights on cedar siding using blocks like this http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/siding-mounting-blocks/siding-mounting-kits-with-built-in-box/ rather than building something like https://www.thisoldhouse.com/sites/default/files/styles/content_box/public/migrated/images/14-norm-advice.jpg . Am I getting an inferior product?


texts: Can I add an outside switch to exterior floodlights?

texts: I have an exterior floodlight that is switched from inside the house. I want to be able to switch it on at its outside location, as well. I don't want a motion detector light. I hope I can avoid additional wiring work. The floodlight is well protected from weather, mounted under an overhang on the outside of the house. Location is southwest USA.


texts: Genie SilentMax 1000 will not move up or down

texts:
I have been having problems with my Genie SilentMax 1000 garage door opener. With the door disengaged from the opener the shuttle moves back and forth about 4" and stops. It has been doing this intermittently for a month or so now and then sometimes it starts working again after I try it 10 times or more.

The door operates quite easily by hand with no restrictions.
The safety beam is not blocked and has a constant light.
I have reprogrammed the up and down limits twice.
I have reprogrammed the up and down force to maximum.

I can find parts like here:
http://www.genie-garage-door-openers.com/genie10003024.htm

It seems the motherboard is $75 about half the price of a new door opener. I am wondering if anyone else has seen this problem and if they successfully repaired it with a circuit board or was it the motor.

I hate to buy a part and have it still not work but I hate to completely replace the opener. It is only 18 months old, just past warranty, go figure huh? I won't be buying another Genie.

Thanks for any help and happy holidays.


texts: Is converting a BSW to Ethernet jack ends possible?

texts: I have a spare ex. 5 pair, gel and armored BSW between my home and my shop app. 120’ away. Range ext. don’t work. Can I convert BSW to Ethernet jack ?


texts: Why are boards replaced in a laminate floor duller than the others?

texts:
We recently had to replace several planks. We used what we had left over from the initial installation.

Those boards are dull and I'm unable to get it to the same finish as the original.

Any ideas what happened? Why it happened? and how I make the replacement boards shiny?


texts: Rewiring switched ceiling lights and outlet switched top receptacle to switched ceiling lights and always on outlet

texts:
In my living room there are:

Recessed dimmable ceiling lights
A switch with a dimmer
An outlet where the top receptacle is only on when the ceiling lights are on. The bottom receptacle is always on.

I wanted to 1. Make both receptacles always on 2. Replace the outlet with a newer outlet (for aesthetics)
After removing the outlet, it was wired like so:
Top

Red wire on the right side (switched hot)
Black wire 1 on the right side straight into the back (doesn't seem to ever be hot)
White wire 1 on the left side (neutral?)
White wire 3 on the left side straight into the back (neutral?)

Bottom

Black wire 2 on the right side (always hot)
White wire 2 on the left side (neutral?)

On the new outlet,  I've connected:
Top

White wire 1 on the left side (neutral?)

Bottom

Black wire 2 on the right side (always hot)
White wire 2 on the left side (neutral?)

Now both top and bottom are always on, BUT my ceiling lights are off.
I have Black wire 1 (not hot), White wire 3 (neutral), and Red wire (switched hot).  What's the proper way to connect these so that my ceiling lights operate correctly.
Thanks in advance.


texts: mounting a power-splitter on a foreign electricity transformer

texts:
I'm using a 110V→220V foreign electricity transformer (image attached).
Is it possible / safe to mount a power-splitter on the transformer, to allow multiple 110V devices to be connected simultaneously through the same transformer, or should I use a separate transformer for each device?


texts: How do I safely put casement window back in from inside on top floor

texts:
We removed double-glazed wooden casement window (2 windows with a central bar) from top floor of house yesterday to paint and the frame a different colour. We thought we would do a better job this way instead of trying to paint from inside especially as we were changing the colour. The house backs onto a river and is too high up anyway to access from the outside.

My concern is putting it back in, because when we removed it was heavier than expected. Im worried Im going to struggle to hold it in place whilst my wife screws in the screws (although thankfully we do have new screws and electric screwdriver). Any tips/ideas on how I can do this safetly and prevent it dropping if I do slip.

Is there a safe way to do this to minimize the risk of dropping it.


texts: I want to run 4 horizontal 2x4s and add a plywood sheet to use as storage in my attic. The studs would run through the middle of the frame. The problem is that there are 1x4 braces where I want to put my 2x4 studs. They don't look as if they were meant to be permanent so I wanted to know if from a structural standpoint they are really needed. Here are the pictures of the 1x4s (horizontal and diagonal).


texts: How do I install electrical through "new work" stucco?

texts:
See also How do I install electrical through existing stucco (e.g. "old work") which deals with the old work situation.

What are the best practice products and procedures for installing an exterior light, on a wall that will be re-stuccoed?

While I am looking for a general answer, I do have a specific wall in mind.  This plastic box is installed on top of a circle of plywood with one screw.  The paper is cut around the box and caulked to the outer layer.  The box is not waterproof itself.  I have been unable to find a stucco depth waterproof box:


texts: Mounting screws into thin plastic decoration

texts:
I'm trying to mount a smart doorbell on a doorframe. The problem is that the latter runs a decorative "pillar" made out of thin plastic (see photo) with a gap between the plastic and the wall underneath, so using anchors and screws in a straightforward way is problematic. To make things more interesting, the decorative surface is not flat. So I would appreciate any advice on the way to mount 2 screws there. So far, the things that come to mind are:

Drill all the way and drive anchors into the underlying surface, then use long screws.
Use some short butterfly anchors to fasten screws to plastic only (do such things even exist?)
Set it on epoxy glue.

What would be the best way to mount on such a surface?


texts: Which Transformer for 220v to 24VAC for Heating Smart Thermostat

texts:
I have a 220V electric baseboard heating system which is controlled by a 24 VAC 2 wire thermostat (RH, W). There is a 220V to 24VAC relay in the circuit from the thermostat to the heating system.

I plan to replace the thermostat with a WiFi enabled smart thermostat so I can control it remotely. The Smart thermostat (Emerson Sensi) needs a C wire (return ?) so the thermostat can be powered.

My choices are
1. Use an external 110V to 24VAC adapter from an outlet to power the thermostat (connect to C and R terminals on the thermostat)
2. Replace the existing relay with a transformer that has a common wire and pull a 3 wire thermostat cable through the floor & wall.

I plan to do option 1 now as it's zero risk in the middle of winter and follow up with Option 2 in the summer.
I'm not sure which transformer I need to get for the 3 wire (RH, W, C) application.
Any ideas ?

Also, the current thermostat has a backlight feature operated by a button to light up the dial - so, it is able to use the power from the RH wire to close the circuit. Can I simply jump the RH connector to the C connector in the thermostat ? I have a feeling this will cause a short.

Thanks, V


texts: Tempstar (ICP) furnace short cycle (runs 10 -15 minutes) then repeats

texts:
I have a tempstar (ICP) furnace put in when the house builder built the house.  Model is N9MPD075F12A2.   Installed late 2009.  This problem only happens with the furnace not the AC.  When calling for heat, the furnace will run 10 - 15 minutes then give me a 4 blink error which is (limit or roll out switch open).  flames turn off, inducer finishes it run along with the blower motor.  Then the furnace resets and turns on right away again.  This may happen 1 - 3 times to reach the desired temperate especially when wanting to raise the temp by 2 or more degrees.  I have removed thermostat and hardwired w and r wires with same condition.  I have a non pleated filter at the furnace, and a 20x20x4 return filter on the first floor right above the furnace.  Honeywell model FC40R1003.  These have been replaced and the issue is no better. Two ceiling return grills on the second floor also. I have removed the honeywell return filter and this has still happened.

I have cleaned the flame sensor, no help. There is no rollout of flames out of the heat ex-changer that I can see.  The flames stay inside the exchanger when they first light and also when the blower motor turns on. This is a 9o or higher efficiency furnace so I have intake and outtake pipes 2" ID with three 45's and 4' going up to ceiling and 10' across to outside.

Looking for solutions and things to check.  Thanks


texts: Effective approach to running Romex on existing lines.

texts: If a power outlet has an mix of 12 & 14 gauge wire or 14 gauge wire, would it be as effective, provide up to 14 amps, and safe to run 12 gauge Romex to a new outlet?


texts: Had some mildew on the ceiling so I thought some thing was wrong with the exhaust sucking the moisture from the shower. So I vacuumed everything and removed the flapper and cleaned that as well.So I put everything back together and turn the vent on and instead of the flapper opening to suck up the moisture it being sucked close by the exhaust.I tried flipping the flapper around and it can only go 1 way.Its a fantech model PBH4 ceiling vent.Plenty of suction.Just the flapper is not opening like it should its being suck close. Any suggestions?Thanks


texts: How to independently verify that bedbug heat treatment is working?

texts:
How can I verify that a (whole unit) heat treatment for bedbugs was or will be effective?  More generally, what is the best way to verify that an apartment is (likely) free of bedbugs?

Background:

We signed a lease for a new apartment and then found out it has bedbugs (after moving some of our possessions in).

The landlords hired an exterminator who applied heat treatment to the entire unit (and checked for bugs afterwards using dogs), but when one of us moved in 4 days later, they immediately started getting bites. A few weeks later, we found eggs in one of the traps we laid.  So the apartment will now be retreated (by the same exterminator).

Now, given that the treatment failed the first time, we are concerned that the treatment will fail again.  We're making sure to follow best practices, and looking into whether neighboring units may be responsible.

More Questions:

What else can we do to make sure that the apartment is free of bugs before we move in?  Ideas I have are:

Have an independent exterminator check with dogs (although they would have a perverse incentive to find bugs)
Place some form of thermometer in hard-to-reach locations, to ensure that the exterminator's treatment is reaching high enough temperatures
Set C02-baited traps immediately after treatment (for detection purposes)

What do you think of these ideas?
Are there other things we should do?
Can someone recommend products and placement for idea #2?


texts: Possible moisture issue with partial insulation of unheated garage

texts:
I live in a zone 5 area in Ohio in a house build in the 60s. The garage is 20x20, attached to the house on two sides and shares a roof with the house. Current garage isn't insulated - the attic has blown in insulation over the conditioned part of the house but none over the garage; the garage door is uninsulated; the two exterior walls are not insulated either (the garage door wall is drywall, the other one is painted pegboard). Floor is a concrete slab on grade, most likely without insulation or vapor barrier. We don't have noticeable moisture on the slab today, though.
I'm having the garage door replaced with an insulated one (for noise and durability, not just insulation) and am thinking about adding some more insulation.
I use the garage for cars, and the goal with insulation is to have the cars warmer than outside during winter. I might use a 110v construction heater on a timer in the morning if that would help and won't be too cost-prohibitive to run. The garage has no appliances/utilities in it and has no issues with being uninsulated today.
Easiest path for the walls would be to pull off the pegboard, put fiberglass in the cavities (2x4 studs with chipboard sheathing) and put the pegboard back on. I really don't want to replace the pegboard with drywall, but might consider putting drywall in the stud cavities to cover insulation for fire safety, then hang the pegboard over that (just as cosmetic covering, since it's already painted to the same color as the rest of the garage).
For the attic just fill with blown-in or batts (potentially as part of adding insulation for the rest of the attic over the conditioned space).
My main concern is how to manage moisture in the garage. I've read pretty conflicting opinions about the use of vapor/air barrier. We have rain on the cars and in the winter snow melting off the cars for sure, but no other moisture sources.
Would the fact that parts of the walls would be left uninsulated provide "an easy way out" for the moisture, leaving the insulation alone? Would it benefit having Kraft faced fiberglass or using a 6 mil poly vapor barrier before putting back the pegboard (potentially covering with drywall in the cavities under the pegboard, which would compress the insulation a little)?
Same question for the attic insulation. It doesn't look like the existing insulated parts of the attic have a vapor barrier, and there are no moisture/mold issues.


texts: Does thining wood filler make it crack when drying?

texts:
I'm wrapping my structural beam and posts with 1"x "white wood" cut at a 45 deg and butted together to make my corners. well the problem is my crappy table saw and not so good table saw skills, Its not real bad but there are some areas that needed wood filler and most of them where pretty tight so I diluted the "plastic wood" (I think) putty with acetone. Every time I wait for it to dry and come back to it cracked and falling out, like its shrinking maybe?

Any help getting these gaps filled would be much appreciated!


texts: Sink faucet cartridge pops out with geyser-like leak

texts:
I've never heard of this but today my wife screamed that her bathroom faucet (cold side) EXPLODED. Sure enough, the cartridge together with the knob and all just popped up and out resulting in a geyser of water. The faucet was in the off position and she hadn't touched the knob...it just suddenly blew.
We actually have low water pressure in the house - so low I had to install a low pressure shower head in that bathroom. The fixtures are original to the house built in 1992, although I've replaced one leaking cartridge (dripping faucet) in this bathroom about a year ago and another dripping faucet cartridge in a separate bathroom a couple of months ago.
I can see no damage to the cartridge that popped out. assume I'll just need to replace the cartridge(s) in that sink, but will that by itself prevent this from happening again?


texts: Can I add rigid foam to the cold side of a kneewall?

texts:
I have kneewalls and attic floor/1st floor ceiling that are insulated with R13 and then have plywood covering. The floor has plastic against the 1st floor ceiling "warm side". I'm considering adding insulation but leaning towards putting 2 inch rigid foam on top of the plywood on the kneewall and under the plywood on the floor.

This would be easier and save space compared to adding more framing and then adding more fiberglass or cellulose. I'm only concerned about condensation, etc. I've seen what I'm proposing done on a few videos etc but want to make sure this is ok.


texts: What's the best way to seal around this faucet?

texts:
This faucet is not hooked up to a live pipe, but it still sticks out the side of my 110 year old house. The siding is fiber cement containing asbestos (and no, I'm not worried about working with it).

What's the best way to seal it up so water can't get in the house? There is some expanding foam insulation inside the house around the pipe where it leaves the house already.

faucet http://plk.webimages.s3.amazonaws.com/faucet.JPG


texts:
This question is a follow-up to How can I speed up my slow hot water?.

I have a tankless water heater, and it takes over 90 seconds to get hot water to my kitchen. (This is not acceptable as I'm not renting out this property.)

I'd like to install a "unit" close to the kitchen faucet. Ideally, this unit would not store water, but would heat the water as it passes through. This way, when the hot water finally reaches the sink from the main water heater, the local unit could stop working and let the main water heater do the work.

But, as I type this, I'm thinking that this may not be the ideal solution. The problem is that, to get hot water, the sink has to be turned on full blast (to trigger the water heating mechanism in the tankless water heater). So maybe I should have a 5gallon water heater near the kitchen sink to handle all hot water that the kitchen sink will need. If I went this route, would the kitchen sink ever be able to use hot water from the main hot water heater? Put another way, would turning the hot water on the kitchen sink on full blast trigger hot water to come from the main water heater?


texts: Unistall and Install over the range microwave

texts: I purchased a replacement microwave. When the installer came out to do the install, he said that he couldn't do it until the cabinet trim was removed because there wasn't enough clearance to remove and replace the microwave. I measured it and there is about 3 inches from the top of the trim to the bottom of the microwave. I watched videos and I see how they are removed but do you really need to angle the microwave that far? Does the trim really have to be removed???


texts:
I just had my shower re-tiled and the contractor used a cream colored sanded caulk instead of standard white silicone (without asking me).

I want it to be white but he refuses to come back. Can I just apply a new layer of white caulk over what he did? Or do I have to take it all out and start from scratch?


texts: single mud tube coming down from ceiling

texts: I have a vaulted ceiling in my dining room. About a week ago I saw something coming down from the ceiling.  When I knocked it off, I realized it was a mud tube. There is a tiny hole left in the ceiling.  Nothing has come back. I continue to watch to see if any more appear. I checked around outside and can find no mud tubes going up the walls from the ground.  I am very concerned.  Could anything else make a small mud tube coming down from the ceiling?


texts: Can I use green(lid) all purpose joint compound to skim a plaster wall?

texts: I removed the wallpaper from plaster and lath walls. I found a few cracks that were easily repaired but previous owners did a terrible job with patching. I would like t o get rid of imperfections and make it smooth looking.  Can I use the pre-mixed USG (green lid) all purpose joint compound to do this? Do I need to use a bonding such as plastic weld first?  If not what should I use? I don't want to deal with structo lite which from what I read seems hard to work with.


texts: Using the outlet on an electrical stove for small appliances

texts:
The outlet that is on the front panel of my electric stove is three prong and I have been using it for my coffee maker. Now because I've been looking into the wiring codes regarding another issue, I see that coffee makers/toasters/kettles should be on a 20amp circuit with 12 gauge wiring. So, I'm wondering if this is safe practice to plug the coffee maker into that stove outlet. Basically I'm thinking why would they put an outlet on a stove if you can't use it for a small appliance... (It's also quite an old stove.)

Also, is it safe to plug a kettle or toaster into an outlet that is wired with 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp circuit breaker?

Thanks.


texts:
I have a GE 20amp Breaker that feeds my Dining room and outdoor power for Linai.  Breaker off, no power going out, breaker on power at the panel.  No power in aforementioned area.   GFI outside, replaced with new, still no power.

What are the possibilities?  Ground or short somewhere?  But why wouldn't that trip the breaker? From what I can tell, this 20 amp breaker also feeds the Microwave. I have unplugged everything, reset the breaker many times, still no power.  Removed cover of main panel and tested breaker with my voltage tester...


texts: How can I ground old 2-prong receptacles?  (120V)

texts: I have several old receptacles that are 2-prong.  There is armored cable running from the breaker panel to each receptacle.  What do I need to do in order to install and properly ground new 3-prong receptacles?


texts: Is it safe to pour concrete and use mortar in freezing weather?

texts:
I have a 1947 cape (Cape Cod style home) in New England.  The basement egress walls which are made of unfilled cinder blocks and run parallel to the house under the porch are caving in.  I thus have to have them broken up and have new walls built--of cinder blocks, rebar, and filled with concrete, layer by layer.

Because of the freezing weather, I had thought that I should wait until spring or summer to have this done.  However, one person I have spoken to has told me that there is no need to wait for the spring thaw.  Because of the headache of the current egress collapsing, I am very wary of anything that could weaken the new walls, and so am uncomfortable with the idea of pouring the concrete for the egress walls in the winter.  I have read that it is possible to pour in freezing weather, but the process seems rather elaborate and uncertain.

So, my question:  Is it generally a bad idea to pour concrete in freezing weather?  Should a rebuild such as this be done after the threat of a freeze? As to freezing weather, it's difficult to predict how cold it may get, as it's been a warm winter.  It will get as low as 16 degrees F this week during the late night and early morning hours, but in past years has gotten much colder than that, and may this year.


texts: Extend a clean out in main line in basement

texts:
I have a hole in my basement flooring where a clean out is for the main line. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to do with the clean out. The pipe is metal with a rubber stopper at the end.

Is it possible to extend the clean out with a vertical pipe and fill in the hole? or
Is it recommended to keep as is and just put a cover.

We are putting some carpet downstairs over the existing tile. The carpet will go up to the hole with a border of a few inches or so.

https://ibb.co/mX78od

https://ibb.co/bwKzuJ


texts: Cannot drill far enough to mount curtain pole

texts:
Trying to mount a curtain pole above my window, and I cannot drill far enough in to get a rawlplug plus screw into the wall.  I can drill ~0.75in deep but no further.

I have considered getting a heavier duty drill to do the job, but I am worried that it may be something I shouldn't be drilling in to such as a lintel.

What's the solution for mounting a curtain pole in this situation?


texts: Two 3-way switches; each with lead to light

texts:
I have a single switch C, 3-way switches A and B, and 2 lights. One box has A & C with 14-2 power in and 14-2 wire to light from C. A & B are connected by 14-3 wire. Switch B has 14-2 wire to a second light. I want to remove C and wire A & B such that they operate both lights on or both off.

I know that running wire between lights will solve the problem. Yes, I can run that wire from attic to basement. However, I was hoping to not have to do that.

Will this answer work?    3 way switches with switch load at each end