texts: What can I replace an 8-spline handle with?

texts:
My bathroom, built in the 1930's, is missing one of the wall-mounted shower handles.  The stems are 8-spline and I can't find any 8-spline handles that aren't 1930's antiques.  I would rather not replace the stems, so is there anything except an 8-spline handle I can buy that would fit on them?
(I suppose I could get one of those handles that's held on by only a set screw, but that doesn't seem like a sturdy solution.)
Here is a photo of the stem.  That front plate holding the bell-shaped cover is round and has no obvious place to put a wrench.  You can see where someone tried to take it off, but I don't know if they were successful and I haven't tried myself in order to avoid further damage.

And here are the handles I have now.  I think the one on the right is original.  It has a porcelain button on the other side.  The one on the left is newer and has a six-sided opening and an adapter.  I would look for more like it but I don't know what either that opening or the adapter is called.


texts:
I'm doing some work up in my attic, installing plywood decking over my garage for storage.  During installation, I accidentally rubbed the edge of one plank of plywood against a run of NM-B, tearing its outer insulation.  (The inner paper-like sheath is not damaged.)

If both ends of this run of NM-B were accessible I would just replace it completely.  Unfortunately, it is the line running from my garage's overhead light, to the light switch mounted on the wall.   I'm pretty certain this run will be stapled to the stud, a few inches above the switch gang, which means I can't pull it out.  (It is also inaccessible for other reasons, such as: the point at which it descends through the plate down to the switch gang is directly below my A/C unit, in the attic.)

Since neither the paper sheath nor the insulated conductors inside were damaged, I'm wondering if it would be acceptable (NEC-wise) to just wrap electrical tape around the scarred portion.  After the repair, this section will be hidden under the plywood decking that I am installing.  (Not intentionally, that's just the way the cookie crumbles.)

I also found something at HD called 'liquid electical tape'.


texts: Can heat pumps condensation line be run in wall?

texts: We're adding an addition (garage with master suite) and we currently have a couple of drain lines installed on that side of the house but they need to be moved to install the addition. Typically, they don't want to install these on the front of the house becausethe drain lines coming down are ugly but I was thinking that since we're having the entire house sided at the same time it might be possible to install the drain lines in the wall instead to avoid the ugly lines on the outside of the house? Is this an alternative solution I'm not seeing?


texts: Why are 24 TPI jigsaw blades recommended only for up to 3mm of metal?

texts: Multiple German manufacturers e.g. Bosch, Wilpu only recommend their 24 TPI (or 1mm tooth pitch) only up to 2.2 or 3 mm of metal, leaving their coarser 14 TPI (2mm tooth pitch) for up to 6mm metal. I've cut 6 to 8mm bars (axes for doors and window handles) with a 24 TPI blade and had no issues... the blade didn't seem to lose any sharpness and the cut was a matter of seconds every time I used it. So what am I missing here by not using their recommended/coarser blade?


texts: Does a 20 amp GFCI outlet on a 15 amp circuit pose an inherent danger?

texts:
I'll start by acknowledging that I know this violates NEC. As I understand it, the reason that a 20 amp outlet can't be connected to a 15 amp circuit is that someone could potentially connect a 20 amp device, overload the circuit, and cause a fire. That makes sense.
Now, here's the question. Suppose all you have on hand is a 20 amp GFCI and you need to replace an outlet on a 15 amp circuit. (You will get a correct 15 amp outlet eventually, but you don't have it right now.) This circuit is on your own, private property - no one else will use it but you. You also don't own any 20 amp devices, so there is zero chance of one being connected to the circuit. (For sake of discussion, exclude situations like forgetting you did this, contractors using the circuit, sale of the property to an unaware party, etc. I acknowledge those are more good reasons for the NEC rule.)
Does connecting the 20 amp GFCI to the 15 amp circuit pose a danger just by its existence? That is, will it pose some risk just by being connected to the circuit, even if unused, or only used for 15 amp devices? Or, is it only potentially dangerous, because someone could connect something to it that they shouldn't?


texts: How much load can a (wood) 4"x 6" handle with a span of 16' with supports only at the ends.  I have a total of 6,200 load pounds on it.


texts: Can I use this spray gun with my air compressor?

texts: I have a spray gun that needs 4.4 cfm and 60 psi to work. My compressor is only 2.6 cfm but 135psi with a 6 gallon tank and a 2hp engine. Will this setup work to spray paint?


texts: Low water pressure at reverse osmosis tap after running fridge dispenser

texts:
I was replacing the air filter in my fridge and decided to install a water filter while I was at it ( it came with the air filter ).

I ran roughly 2 gallons of water through the dispenser after installation, as recommended by the manufacturer.

After doing so, the pressure at the fridge water dispenser was low, but so was the pressure at my reverse osmosis tap at the kitchen sink.

The sink is on the opposite wall from the fridge. I waited a bit and tried it again, and the same thing happened.

Why is this the case?


texts: Are gas lines installed above fireplaces?

texts: I am trying to install a TV above my fireplace (I know) and I hit something that looks like a metal pipe and I'm worried it's a gas pipe. Logically I assume no one would ever install a gas line above a fireplace because of combustion probabilities. I have no reason to think there'd be a gas line except for the fact that it's a fireplace and what the hell else would a small metal pipe be doing above a fireplace? There is no indication that it was ever a gas fireplace, there's a metal fire box inside the fireplace but no gas line or knob. Thoughts?


texts: Painting Tape Application - One Foot Sections

texts:
I have read that one should apply painter's tape in single, one-foot sections instead of a long strip. The reason given is that when it is applied in one, long strip, the tape is stretched and won’t lay flat or stick properly, resulting in paint bleeding underneath the tape.

I just taped 70% of a 14' x 22' foot room with long strips. Is it worth re-taping?


texts: I've walked around my neighborhood, and seen curtains that leave around the top 1/4 of the window open, which I really like. It seems to provide the same amount of privacy, but also let in a good amount of direct sunlight even if they're closed. I've tried searching for them in different places, but nothing really seems to come up. Are they just normal window shades/blinds installed lower? Are these a common design? Is there a name for them? Are there any drawbacks or hangups to doing them?


texts: why is a cylinder lock key not symmetrical?

texts:
If you look at a mortice lock key from the side (https://tradelocks.co.uk/cylinder-mortice-borg-locks/key-blanks/6-lever-mortice-key-blank.html), it is symmetrical from tip-to-base. This is because the same key can be inserted into the same lock from either side of the door.

however, on some doors with simple cylinder locks (like this) https://www.easykeys.com/381_Yale_Lock_1-1600_Lock_Keys.aspx the key can also be inserted from either side of the door, yet it is not symmetrical.

how does this work?


texts: How can I attach a new drain to a drain pipe that's fallen away from the tub?

texts:
Hello everyone,

Noobie here and I think I shot myself in the foot!
I wanted to replace the old drain with a new one so my almost 2 year can have bubble baths.
I was able to remove the old drain but ran into this issue.  The pipe sank in and I cant seem to screw on the new drain/old drain.  I've used a metal hanger to try and lift the pipe while attempting to screw on the drain and cant seem to do it.  Getting under the top isn't an option!  Suggestions!?!?


texts: Why use drywall tape when you can just mud over the crack?

texts: Got a semi-small drywall project with several "joints" and just wondering what would happen if I didnt use the tape? (corners and "butt-joints")


texts: What's the least intrusive way to find out what's in a wall?

texts:
I'm getting ready to mount a flatscreen TV on our living room wall and would like to route various cables through it (e.g. surround sound speakers, HDMI, etc). I appreciate the AWESOME tips here, but I think I'm missing something important: How can I find out what's in the wall without causing damage or creating too much of a mess?

My concern is that there may be electrical wiring, plumbing, insulation, or dead rodents (kidding) in there.

Our house is about 50 years old and the wall is shared with the kitchen on the other side but there's no sink attached to that wall. Wall material is drywall.


texts: Removal of the cardboard pier footing forms in the crawlspace - how to do it?

texts:
Home inspector put this in the report:

=========================
Recommend removal of the cardboard pier footing forms in the crawlspace. Cardboard is a wood biproduct and its contact with the soil can be a potential attraction for wood boring insects.
=========================
Is it a new recommendation or was cardboard forgotten to be removed? Should I remove it? If yes - how - just get there and rip it off? Any precautions should I take?


texts: I have an issue with a project. I have some 6-32 UNC screws that I need to use. I won't get too far into specifics but this is standardized and I cannot use any other screw. The problem I am having is that I found a specialized nut that I need than only comes in metric. Unfortunately it only comes in M3 and M4, not M3.5 which is a close equivalent to 6-32. Although, after looking into it more, I think the thread pitch between 6-32 UNC and M3.5 is different anyhow. Since M3 is a little smaller, would it be possible to get M3 nuts and use a 6-32 UNC tap on it?


texts: Enclosing utility room (furnace / water heater) basement

texts:
I have a very old furnace (HVAC) in a utility room (basement) with slatted door that’s very loud and was wondering if I could enclose the utility room (with mineral wool and solid doors) by adding vents (for air combustion intake) to the adjacent room (tool room) to the utility room? The HVAC has a air return from the rooms but no air intake from outside. Is it feasible and is it safe?
Thank you,
Pictures below to get an idea of the layout. If it helps we live in New Jersey, 1954 split level house.
The furnace is a 120,000btu and model number PBKM-LD20N120 (manual link furnace manual , the furnace and water heater have exhaust pipes leading to the chimney.


texts: How do I seal a garden hose against a nipple?

texts:
I put a nipple on the end of a garden hose.  It leaks when I close the valve at the other end of the hose.

I have pushed the hose all the way up the nipple.  It's sealed really tight. I could barely get it off. I have tried using one and two hose clamps to seal it even tighter, without any success. What should I do?

The nipple and hose look like these:


texts: Blower fan works w/ a/c “auto”, not with heat “auto”

texts:
I know there are similar questions out there but are there any new ideas?

When I turn on my heater, the gas fires up but the fan doesn't turn on.
I know the fan is still working because it will turn on with the a/c on auto or the fan just by its self in "on" mode.

Thanks for any help


texts: What should I use as backing for mosaic accent tiles that are a different thickness than the main field tiles?

texts:
I noticed, too late (during install), that the mosaic tile my wife chose for accent in our shower is a different depth than the regular tile we're using.  The mosaic tiles are about 1/8-3/16" thinner than the other tiles. I tried using a piece of backer board, but that made the mosaic tiles push past the regular tiles.  I wound up trying to build up using thicker glass mortar, but that resulted in less-than-perfect mosaic...so I need to rip this out.

My question is...how should I build this up so I don't need to make a thick mortar base for the mosaic? Should I built it up slowly with layers of mortar?  Is there some thinner material I can use to build this up in this (wet) environment?


texts: How to (re)support basement stair stringers?

texts:
Recently I had some waterproofing done on my basement. This included removing some concrete that anchored/lifted the stringer's supports so that old concrete could be removed and new stuff poured (see image 1).
I don't have a problem fixing this once the new concrete has finished setting (I was fully aware that this was on me after the job was done), but unfortunately I have no idea how to approach it.
Image 1.  The darker area on the floor in  the image   was originally a mound of concrete, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" high stretching between both supports (you can see some remnants under the support on the left, all was removed near the wall).
Currently there's just a scrap board holding up the stairs near the bottom end (top left of image 1 in the background), and I'm just trying to go downstairs as carefully and infrequently as possible for now.
Image 2. You can see there is a slight height difference between the bottom of each stringer and the floor. There was a difference before, as there is a floor drain not too far from the lower end, but I'm sure the new concrete slightly increased the difference. A scrap piece of plywood temporarily lifts one end. It looks like there may have been a small patch of concrete lifting this part as well, but I'm not 100% sure.
Eventually I'll need to rebuild the landing that was at the bottom of the stairs which I had to tear up for this (it hides some sort of old cast iron capped off sewer pipe I have no intention of touching, just off the left of image 2).
My current plan is just to keep a scrap block under the stringer, just clean it up a little/hide it. Of course the landing I build will need to be slightly raised on that side as well, but that's no big deal. But if there's a more "legitimate" approach I'm more than happy to attempt that instead.
How sould I best approach this?


texts: advice on grounding lamp and ballast required

texts:
Greetings to DIY community,

That's my first DIY experience, and I literally have zero experience with electricity. I would appreciate any advice if I am missing or doing something wrong here.

I am trying to wire a Philips TUV 55W PLL lamp with a WH43-UNV-L ballast according to the Fulham datasheet (diagram. 12). I know that this ballast is discontinued for now, but at least I managed to get it at this time.
In addition, I know that this lamp type expects programmed start instead of instant start one.

The documentation states "This ballast case must be grounded".

Let's say I am going to use this type of cord, would attaching "green" wire to the ballast's box would be enough to be "grounded"?

Thank you!


texts: Keeping Large Channel Trench Drain Clear

texts: My new garage has a large Channel trench drain in front of it. The architect oversized the trench drain and used a non-typical 12-inch drain. I'm confident that I won't get water in my garage. But on the downside the grate has a very large slots that easily allow leaves to enter. I'm worried about eventual clogging. Aside from replacing the grate (expensive), what are my options. I was thinking about possibly trying to retrofit some wire mesh underneath the existing grates. Or even at the opening of the drain hole at the end. Any other ideas?


texts: How do I go about determining how to wire a breaker box in a cargo trailer

texts:
I'm about to wire a cargo trailer with construction equipment, table saw, miter saw, air compressor, drill press, and a few other small tools. Only one tool and lights will used at one time.

So here are my questions. If I plug the trailer into a house with a 110 volt 20 amp circuit, then does it really matter what amp breaker box I use in the trailer? I figure I'm already at the 20 amp rating by doing this.

Otherwise, how do I calculate the breaker panel box that I should buy. I guess I'm asking how should I go about this project at the breaker box?


texts: what size propane back-up generator is needed to run

texts: What size generator is needed to power (if need be) a 3 h.p. well pump, a 1/2 h.p. cistern pump, two 16 cu ft upright freezers, and a 16 cu ft fridge in the workshop?


texts: Is it possible to boost an electrical circuit for more current draw?

texts:
In my attic I have a relatively decent electrical circuit that runs a family room with a modest entertainment system, a home office with a monster PC, and a couple of ceiling lights. I've never had any problems with it before.

Recently I got a new laser printer that apparently draws a lot of current briefly when it comes out of sleep mode - enough to trip my UPS (the printer is not plugged into the UPS). I don't know if this is a dangerous situation, but it's unsettling and I'd like to fix it if possible.


texts: Showers in house run cold after 30/45 seconds - Sinks scalding hot?

texts:
Have a two story house with kitchen, main bath, guest toilet and laundry room on first floor, and two bedrooms upstairs with one full bath each. The water heater is a 55 gal gas operated, located in the crawl space. There is an expansion/pressurized tank on the hot water line of the house as well.

Yesterday, out of the blue and without any warning, the shower in the main bath went from hot to lukewarm then cold after about 30/45 seconds of running. The sink in the same bath would put out scalding hot water, as did the kitchen sink and any other outlet in the 1st floor. Turning the mixer valve control to max hot puts out warmer water, just enough for one to shower.

Checked upstairs and one of the bathroom showers displays the same symptom, while the other one works fine. Again, all faucets in the 2nd floor put out hot water as expected.

I checked the anti-scald on both shower mix valves and these don't seem to have them (Price-Pfisters - MFD 2007), but after that I'm out of options. Today both showers continue to do the same, while the third one upstairs (the one least used) works fine.

Where should I start looking? Is it possible that both mixer valves would have gone bad at the same time? What else could be causing this?


texts: Is it enough to apply just one coat of Killz2 primer on drywall?

texts:
I have heard conflicting instructions regarding primer on drywall, some saying one and some saying two coats.  The bucket of Killz2 itself says reapply after 1 hr, implying two coats are needed (I am sure they want to sell more product).  I have also heard varying customer feedback regarding Killz2.

Is it enough to apply just one coat of Killz2 primer on drywall or should I go with two?  I have already done some painting with just a single coat and it turned out fine.


texts: Applying joint compound over old and dirty drywall

texts: The previous owner of this house put drywall up but didn't finish the walls. It looks like the drywall has been there for years and it's quite dirty. My question is: Is there any reason I shouldn't be able to just clean the walls off then tape and mud them up?


texts:
I have problem with using a TV wall mount left by previous owner. Remaining is a wall plate part with a single lug (3 1/8" long, 1/2" hole).
I never saw something partial like that. Usually the hinge part is integral and capped, then wall plate can be bolted into the wall.
Here the wall attachment is solid, but I can't find anything that has a pin and would secure a pin in the hinge assembly. Specifically, commercially-available part that attaches to TV itself and has a pin to insert into existing lug.
Could someone advise what options/designs are available?


texts: Help identify this cabinet clip used to mount face frame on cabinet?

texts:
This clip is used to mount a frame around a built-in oven. Some of the clips have broken and I'd love to replace them. The metal piece goes on the frame, with the plastic piece on the cabinet. A corse screw goes through the plastic piece and into the metal piece on the frame.

Any ideas on what these are called or where I can find some replacements? Ideally would be able to find the exact replacements so I don't need to re-measure and align everything again.


texts: What kind of vent is pictured here and what are its uses?

texts:
While my roof was being replaced, I requested that they install two roof vents. One for laundry and one for bathroom fan. They installed two of these. I just tried connecting the bathroom fan to this vent but, when on, the fan gets noisy and I can't feel much air coming through the roof vent. I'm concerned it's not compatible with this use.

The roof vent is about 4" in diameter at the base. Under the (non-removable) metal cap it appears to have a rubber flap that opens under pressure, covering a ~2" diameter hole.

One other thing to mention is that this is a shallow pitch roof (about 5 degree?) on a row house.


texts: Washer doesn't spin-dry anymore (most of the time)

texts:
Update:

I researched some more and found this video of exactly the same problem and some Amazon reviews which state it, too. I ordered an inverter and will replace it myself and update if it fixes the issue.

My Bosch WAS28443 washer doesn't spin-dry anymore. Well... most of the time anyway. I had a mechanic coming over (5min for 70€) who said it was the inverter and suggested a repair for 250€.
I don't really believe him, because I think the inverter is an on/off thing, and not "sometimes" or randomly.

It doesn't follow any pattern I could recognize. Yesterday I had a 6kg load and it worked flawlessly, today it was only light sports clothing ~1kg and it didn't work. Also, if I set it to spin only after it didn't work, sometimes it spins without further problems, sometimes it doesn't, no matter which speed, or any other settings are set up.

I uploaded a video (https://vimeo.com/224351376)  to show the problem. As I wrote, sometimes everything is in order, but most of the time it tries to spin, but can't/won't.

I think it sounds like a cog not having enough "grip", lacking a better term.

I'm thinking of opening the machine, but wanted to ask some maybe specialist if this is a good idea or if I just should get a mechanic.


texts: Is it permitted to run a gas pipe through the now unused chimney to get to the attic and from there to the other side of the house?

texts:
This is about a bungalow, the width of the house is 25'
My furnace and the gas pipe that feeds this is in the basement.
I would like to run the gas pipe through that chimney all the way to the attic and at that elevation I would go across the house to reach the attached garage area where I would like to connect a natural gas heater

Is this something that is generally permitted ?

The pipe type I want to use is called tracpipe
https://tracpipe.ca/wp-content/uploads/FGP_001_DI_Guide.pdf


texts: My front porch, which is concrete, is leaning to one side. How can I fix it? I had a contractor look at it and he wanted to pour another porch on top of it, but I read somewhere that the preferred approach would be to jack it up somehow? Wondering what the best approach is and ballparks on expected cost would be great. I have a picture but I guess I need more reputation to post it :(


texts: Most of the images show 90 degree angles for the venting.  Can I run mine at a 45 degree angle like the image below?


texts: Well I be able to convert this to a storage space safely?

texts:
Have some space above a section of my garage - approx 9 X 18 ft.
I want to put some OSB down and install a ladder so that I can use it for season storage.
After some research is seems anything with 2X6 or 2X8 is not suitable for weight bearing, but this seems to be livable space, which is NOT what I’m doing. I expect to store my riding gear, saws, paint stuff, sports things, etc.
If I lay 1/2 inch OSB, would this be acceptable and what kind of weight bearing can I expect. Would I be able to walk on it without the whole things collapsing?


texts:
I want to install a receptacle in a closet or two, but I've heard that receptacles are not allowed to be located in closets. I cannot find a concrete reference for that claim, though - it always seems to be an old wive's tale or an electrician-friend-of-a-friend. Is there such a restriction in the NEC, and if so, does it depend on the size of the closet?

This question asks about junction boxes, which are similar, but could potentially be handled separately. A comment in that question indicates there is no restriction, but it would be good to have a definitive answer (especially as relevant for more recent versions of the NEC).


texts:
I am building out a french cleat wall for a home office a la the below photo.  The cleats will be 3/4 inch plywood ripped to 4" strips and attached directly to the studs (through the drywall).  I plan to put in two fasteners at each stud for each cleat.
What are the best fasteners to use?  Are lag bolts necessary or are 2 1/2 inch screws sufficient?  The various shelves will have books and plants and pictures, etc. so not a ton of weight.


texts:
I am in the process of rewiring my house. The house was built in 1950 and even though the service panel was upgraded in the early 70's to a Square D 200 amp service, the system is ungrounded and will not handle today's electrical load requirements. So I am replacing all of the wire, switches, receptacles and placing the wire in non-metallic conduits.

My question is what is the best practice for separating the different loads into various circuits. I am putting the microwave on a dedicated circuit, but how should I separate the rest of the loads in the house. There are no other high power loads in the house.


texts: Connecting an unattached well house breaker panel, proper grounding

texts: I am placing an unattached breaker panel in a well house to be run from a generator. I realize that I need a grounding rod for the ground, but since it does not have a ground for the neutral bar does this need a second grounding rod? I have read several discussions but they only speak of the path going back to a house or transformer. Since there is no path for the neutral to a ground in an unattached building is a # 6 coated wire attached to the panel neutral bar an option. So , by using two ground rods six feet apart one a bare wire to the panel case and the other to the neural bar would this keep me from shorting out my generator and myself?


texts: Why are my dimmer switches malfunctioning?

texts: I have two dimmer switches that have started malfunctioning.  They are in the same box with two other standard switches.  Each controls a set of three small flood lights.   There is no other way to control these floods except with the dimmer switch.   They were working fine last week.   Now, when I slide the dimmer, it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.   I know it isn't a circuit breaker problem since the other switches are on it as well and they work.   These were installed about 6 years ago.   I will need to call an electrician to fix this but would like to have an idea, if possible, of what the problem could be.


texts:
I'm installing blinds that will mount in the ceiling (inside) of the window pane. I initially used wood screws but then thought I'd use drywall screws for greater strength. I tried drilling a hole to push the drywall anchor in and am now confused. Please help!
Edit: Through lot of reading up, this is drywall backed by concrete. The metal strip howing through (bottom of picture) is the corner bead.


texts: Will a 20 amp Siemens GFCI work in a 1966 ITE EQ Loadcenter that does not have a separate neutral bar?

texts: 1966 ITE EQ residential load Center. I want to install a 20 amp Siemens GFCI breaker for the 2010 pool pump. There is no separate neutral bar. I already bought the breaker.  I have a separate 70 amp Square D QO load center for part of the house. How do install the GFCI in the ITE panel without a separate neutral bar?


texts: Kitchen ceiling uneven after removing soffit

texts:
I just removed my kitchen soffits . Now I can see the 2 areas were the soffits were. The ceiling popcorn was replaced but still I can see .How I can fix it without having all the ceiling re-done?
Thanks


texts: Replacing old thermostat and two unidentified wires

texts:
I'm replacing an old thermostat from the early 90's with a new wifi thermostat.

When removing the old one, it only used R,G,Y,W wires, and the new wifi thermostat requires a C.

After fully removing the old thermostat, I saw there were wires tucked away in the wall. One was orange and the other blue.  I'm assuming (just based off pictures) the orange is the C, but what could the blue one be?

Also, is there a way I can test the wires to determine which is a C? As of right now, I have the power turned off at the breaker for both the furnace and AC.


texts:
I am putting up short sections of aluminum fencing inside my patio in the back and up one side, to deter people & pets from jumping off the patio at those points. A gazebo is going to be permanently set up on this patio, inside the fence sections.

I am going to set the aluminum fence posts into concrete. The posts provided are 56" tall, the fence panels are 45". I live in Maine, so I need to put forms in and set them below the frost line (4') yet it states in the installation directions that "The posts themselves do NOT have to go below the frost line, however, for proper installation."

My question is, how do I keep the fence post at the proper height and plumb, if it is not going to have the stability of reaching the bottom of the hole?


texts: Possible to fix a safety cutoff on a Briggs and Stratton mower?

texts:
I have an older Briggs and Stratton mower of the type you can get at Home Depot.

I think something in the safety mechanism broke. The safety mechanism is a bail on the mower handle that must be depressed to allow the engine to start. The safety cable (called the "stop cable") and its latch are ok, but I think that whatever they connect to inside of the engine compartment broke.

Is this a repair that is easily possible, or will it be a can of worms to open up the mower?


texts: What could be causing this drop in water pressure?

texts: I have a deep drilled well with supply lines split to feed the house and livestock watering respectively. The flow to the livestock line remains constant regardless of water usage in the house. But with everything turned off in the house except one faucet, when a toilet is flushed the flow from the faucet reduces to a trickle. Pressure at the well remains at 45 to 50 lbs. What's up? Also, whenever lightning strikes nearby, I get mud in house water. I'm perplexed.


texts: How can I install a wired smoke detector without compromising the fire rated sheetrock?

texts:
We have a connected garage with a bedroom above.  It has proper fire rated sheetrock and a fire rated door.  We use it for storage (including some paint and other normal chemicals).

For this reason I'd like to install a hardwire smoke detector at the same time I install three others in adjacent rooms.  But I'd rather not create an opening in the fire rated sheetrock.

What are my options, other than a battery powered wireless detector?

I am aware that normally garages get heat detectors, not smoke detectors... but remember we use it for storage.


texts: Uncertain about sudden changes in water pressure

texts:
Dilemma

I have two showers; one upstairs and one downstairs. Tonight, both showers had low water pressure - but the sink water pressure seemed normal. I have checked around the house and no water appears to be leaking and the lawn sprinklers are also not on. I am not sure what to check next.

Question

What could be causing this?


texts: What type of Circuit Breaker is required for this slot?

texts:
I was looking at adding an extra breaker or two to my panel as I have two open slots. I opened the front of my panel to see what I was dealing with inside and was perplexed by what I found, I'm going to obviously need a professional for this but for my own education I'd like to find out what's going on in these two slots, it doesn't look like a 2-pole breaker would go there but I could be wrong? Can someone clue me in, thanks!

Edit: My house was built in 1960.

Based on Harper’s answer I’d like for the time being until I have the funds to go with the Easy Option. I do have a few follow up questions in regards to it. This is being done with the intention of adding some extra lighting and outlets to my attached garage. I have a single 40 watt and 15 amp plug in my ceiling not great for a workshop.

I would like to run two independent 120v circuits, one for the outlets, one for the lighting. If I wish to each independent circuit to be 20 amps, would that be a 20 amp 2-pole breaker or a 40 amp 2-pole breaker?

When wiring it this way I’d use the proper gauge wire (12 or 8 depending on amp breaker). But would I just be running #/2 one to each hot terminal for the independent loads?

I would never ask electrical advice at a big box store, my question was more so could I go to one and purchase the supplies? So I can go to a big box store and get the proper Square D “QO” breaker?

Update questions Part 2

@Harper Thank you for updating your answer with more info. If I were to keep the lighting on it's current circuit that looks like it's going on breaker 10 which is the current light and opener, microwave, half bath lights, basement stair lights and the side door light, that's only a 15 amp and I have some old 2 bulb fluorescent units I was going to install in the garage (4 or 5 of them), would this circuit be able to handle that additional load?

Spot 5/7 for the range is a 40 amp double pole that is not in use, we piped in gas because well I hate electric stoves. Could I remove that breaker, put in another 20 amp double pole and do the same thing and run my lighting off of that one? Is there a requirement that you provide a 240v for a stove?

Finally, when wiring up a double pole as two separate 120v services, would you wire up each pole like you would a single pole? As in Hot to one leg, neutral to neutral bus, ground to the ground bus.


texts: Thought it was going to be a straight forward replacement of bathroom sink p-trap. But while I was able to loosen the slip-nut joint between tailpiece and u-bend, the other end of u-bend doesn't have a nut and is a solid piece that's glued to the drain pipe. How is this removed or replaced?


texts: Our upstairs playroom has a floor vent leading to the furnace that children like to throw toys down. Is there any kind of vent cover that can be substituted that is less likely to  result in this activity?


texts: How can I speed up the rate at which putty dries?

texts:
We're (slowly) renovating the sash windows in our house and the current window is causing problems. What should have been a quick job (especially at this time of year!) has turned into a marathon because the putty won't dry.

We had to replace a couple of panes of glass (one was cracked and we broke another when using a heat gun to remove the paint) so we knew it would take a little while. On a previous window the putty took over three weeks to dry enough to paint partly because (as we thought) there was too much oil. So this time we rolled the putty on newspaper first to try to remove the excess oil. It seemed to work, but after two weeks the putty is still soft to the touch.

We've tried standing the windows next to a radiator but all that seemed to do was make it softer (which was obviously going to happen in hindsight).

So given that we don't want to reputty the windows what can we do to speed up the drying process.

We've had to seal off the room and cover the window as best we can in the meantime.

I've found this advice on DoItYourself.com which doesn't really help as it says use other materials!

The answers to this post on DIY-Forums are confusing at best and possibly contradictory as one recommends exposing the putty to moisture(!) to speed the drying process.


texts:
I am renovating my bathroom and am getting close to tiling the shower. I have the hardibacker in place and mortared the seams etc.  The guy at Home Depot made it seem like I needed to apply a waterproofing before laying the tile (RedGard 1 Gal. Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane). This stuff isn’t exactly cheap but I don’t want to end up with a leak somewhere. Is this stuff needed or was the rep just trying to make a sale?

https://homedepot.app.link/sCYDLBgIcL


texts: Is the wall between a home and an attached garage built as an "exterior wall"?

texts:
I have an attached garage.  There is an exterior-rated door between the garage and the living space.

Should the entire wall be built as an exterior wall, as far as sheathing, width, etc?  Is there a code standard that defines this?

I'm in Oregon, USA, but am looking for a general answer.


texts: Installed smart switch but nearby circuit keeps breaking

texts:
I just installed a smart switch (Leviton Decora) in my garage and the switch works fine. But I soon noticed that the circuit controlling outlets in the closest room to the garage keeps breaking. I think it has something to do with the neutral bundle.

The original wiring included three bundled neutral wires. The smart switch did not come with a pigtail but I bought a 14 gauge wire at Lowes, added it to the bundle and connected the other end to the smart switch. As I mentioned, the switch works fine but I’m wondering if adding the new neutral to the bundle could have created an overload that’s affecting the circuit in the neighboring room. Thoughts?


texts: sliding door leaking air, is it installed correctly?

texts:
I have 2 very newly installed ( < 1yr)  jeldwen sliding patio doors (aluminum clad) , and I found that they are leaking air on inside around the bottom and side edges of trim.  I am wondering whether this is a problem with the installation/product or if its something that I just have to caulk up myself from what visible?

The first one I had installed was leaking air (could feel it on cold windy days) in a gap where my hardwood floor met the frame of the patio door (see arrow 1 in picture) which I caulked up to stop.  Arrow 2 and 3 show the areas where I can feel the air on both doors.

How can i know if there was a problem with the installation or if this is just normal for patio doors?.  I know that this door is supposed to be very tight according to energy star label at least.  Should I just caulk the trim and areas on the inside where I can feel the air or is there something else I should be wary of (lacking expanding foam on installation or something?).

Thanks for any help.


texts:
We have a round table that can take two leaves, however, the two table extension slides (I think that's what they're called?) are irreparably broken, and seem to be a non-standard size, but I'm not sure.

The table leaves are each 13 3/4", so 27.5" total.  The table opening is 29" (with 25" x 3 piece slides).  Given the dimensions of the table, it can't really take a slide much larger (26", maybe 27").  The current slide is 25" x 3, with a 54" extension when fully extended.

However, I can't seem to find any slides that are this kind of dimension.  I have found a number of 26" slides with a max opening of 51-52", but all of them state 2 12" leaves, which seems too small.

I guess my question is: am I looking for the wrong thing?  Could I make the smaller slide work?  I'm concerned about the opening width and the width of the leaves.


texts: Are buried footings required for a shed or other structure to withstand 90mph winds?

texts:
I want to build a small 10x10 shed in my backyard.  My city code doesn't require building permits for structures under 120 sq. ft. and doesn't require footings that run down below the frost line for those structures.  However, the code does require that the structure be built to withstand 90 mph winds.

I was planning to just put the shed on concrete block footings on a layer of gravel.  I'm pretty sure the structural design will be over-built, but does the wind resistance requirement mean I need to anchor the building to footings buried below the frost line?


texts: Is it advisable to paint interior walls with a sprayer?

texts:
We just purchased a house and before moving in we want to paint all the rooms: 4 bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and family room (2000 sft home). Being we want to be as efficient as possible I had looked into using a power sprayer. I've read both pros and cons on doing this so hoping to seek some answers from people here that have done this before.

So, using a sprayer inside, yes or no? If yes, what tips and precautions would you suggest?


texts:
I’m replacing the light switches and plugs in my new house and noticed that all the light switches so far have the ground wires screwed to the back of the outlet box. Is this good enough that I don’t need a ground wire attached to the switches or do I need to pigtail the switches to these as well?
What is the proper method of this? There’s not a lot of slack coming in from the wires if I need to pigtail them.
As an FYI, the switch below has one for the light and one for the ceiling fan.


texts: Can I use latex exterior paint over oil based primer?

texts:
I'm in a time crunch. I have to get this storm door painted before the installer comes. I primed it with oil based primer, but don't have time to get oil based paint. Can I use the water based exterior paint that was used on my house?

This is the paint I have.

I don't understand the difference latex, acrylic etc. and I am at work now.


texts: What could cause a central A/C system to smell but only after central heating had been used?

texts:
We have a central heating and air conditioning system in a single family home (in Southern California), where there is a large intake vent in the house that goes directly to the central house fan and furnace (which is located in the garage), and which works in conjunction with an A/C compressor on the side of the house. In the end of 2019, we had the whole system (i.e. the fan, furnace, and outdoor compressor) replaced.
That winter we used the heater, and then we transitioned to using both and then only the A/C into the summer of 2020. And then we switched back to the heater for the 2020/2021 winter.
However, in the Fall of 2020 I noticed something, that after the heater had been used and then we needed the A/C again for a hot day, the air smelled, I think, like mold or mildew. After the A/C ran for about 10 minutes it seemed to clear out though. Then we later used the heater, and on the next hot day we ran the A/C, it again smelled. Except this time it seemed to me that the smell didn't dissipate completely even after it was running for a while. We haven't turned on the A/C since then, but that has mostly not been an issue given the winter weather.
Now the weather is heating up again, and I'm afraid about using the A/C. The thing is, I don't understand what the problem could be. The A/C when running didn't smell, and then the heater when running didn't smell, and then the A/C when running after that did smell. What could cause something like that?
Of course, we could try turning the A/C on and hoping the smell isn't there or dissipates, but it still leaves me worried about mold. If the smell goes away completely maybe I would be mostly at ease, but even then I'd wonder if there is something of concern here.
Another detail which might be relevant, when the system was brand new, it smelled quite bad, which we were told was on account of the soldering done on installation. Eventually the smell went away by running the central fan for a long time, but the smell came back initially the first times we used the heater shortly thereafter, and it may have had the soldering smell as well at first when running the A/C in the middle of 2020. But I don't think it was the same sort of smell as it had in the Fall of 2020.


texts: Washing machine hot water leaking. Is it ok to use with the hot water shut off?

texts: My washer leaks when I use the hot water. I use cold water for both the wash and rinse cycles. I turned the hot water off at the faucet. This prevents the water from leaking out the water hose in the back. Can I safely use it this way? Or, is there a bigger problem that I haven't noticed yet? The machine is a Kenmore top loader and is approx. 15 years old. Thank you in advance.


texts:
We recently installed a new sink and because the drain is in a different spot decided to replace the plumbing. This is the preliminary set up. My question; is the distance from the bottom of my p-trap to the exit pipe to great?

Don't mind the towels and baking dish we were just making sure we had no leaks.


texts:
We live atop a large hill and due to how the driveway is I constantly have water and mud on top of a small area of my driveway. This area is supposed to be a low area to care water down the driveway but the concrete falls back toward the hilltop so the water just pools. The ground is made up of mostly clay which allows the water to sit for days if not weeks before drying out. I created a french drain prior to my shop being built but it seems I don't have the needed fall for it to drain effectively and quickly. Additionally, because the dirt needs to be so low as not to run across the driveway it seems my french drain inlet is just a touch too high to capture the water and get it moved. Because the drain wrap around my building I can no longer easily access the area to dig it back up increase the fall to allow for better drainage. So I am looking for solutions that I might try to fix the pooling water and mud atop the driveway. I have been digging the dirt wall back to allow more for it to pool and hopefully absorbed into the ground better but that doesn't seem to be working. Any help is appreciated.
Would some sort of sump pump work for this area year-round? Other ideas?


texts: Fridge works for 2 months if I unplug it for 2 hours

texts:
My fridge quits working after a couple months. The only fix seems to be unplugging it for a few hours then plugging it back in.

It is not iced over.

I have replaced the main control board.

I have replaced the compressor inverter board.

Each fix fixes it for 2 months (presumably because it involves removing power for a decent amount of time). Then it quits cooling again.

It is a Kenmore Elite all digital. No defrost timer (part of main control board). Temp gauges read out current temp on digital display (that's actually how I know it's stopping cooling as these readings creep up).


texts:
What is an acceptable pressure drop when a faucet is opened, if the PRV is functioning correctly and all the pipes are sized right? I have a 1.25” supply transitioning to a 1” and then splitting into two 3/4” lines for the hose bibs The pressure gauge at the hose bib reads 65 psi with no water running. When I open a hose bib next to the one being monitored, the pressure drops to 40 psi.  I see drops of 20-24 psi, even when if I were to open  a faucet in the home instead.
Thanks for any pointers.
Sam


texts: What breaker configuration does my new on-demand water heater need?

texts: I purchased a on demand water heater.my old heater is hooked to a 20 amp breaker(see photo). Do I change out old breaker to a double-pole 60 amp breaker or do I have to move connection to a different breaker?


texts: How can I build up the hardibacker if it doesn't come flush with the tub

texts: So I have put hardibacker on the walls around the tub and on one of the three walls the wall is not flush with the tub flange (See pic below).  Not sure how to make the wall a bit thicker to go over the tub.


texts: What heat resistant plastic should I use for a lightbox?

texts:
I'm making a lightbox to house a strip light behind a large photographic print. I'd like to use relatively thin (i.e. light) plastic. I looked into using foam PVC, but it's not very heat resistant and I'm worried it would melt.

Any suggestions?


texts: Wiring for GFCI and 3 switches in bathroom

texts:
I'm wrapping up a bathroom remodel.  An electrician came a while back and ran new wiring.  He installed a plastic 4-gang box which will have a GFCI receptacle and 3 switches for a light above the vanity, an overhead light, and an overhead fan.  The wiring is already in place; I just need to install the actual GFCI and switches.  There are three cables coming into the top of the box: two with a black, a white, and a bare, and one with a black, a white, a red, and a bare.  When he installed the wiring and box, he roughly pushed each group of wires into place. I made the attached diagram based on where it looked like the wires were supposed to end up.  Does this look correct?  Also, will the three switches be single pole switches?
Thanks.


texts:
I live in an apartment and my bathroom ceiling fan is making really loud noise and I'm trying to replace it. However, I am having a hard time locating the screws to remove the entire box. I've checked all the holes ( see pix ) around the box but it doesn't feel like there's any screws inside for me to remove.
Does anyone know how to take this thing down ?
Thanks


texts:
I want to open this span (about 12') and planning to purchase 2 x 10" LVL's which will sit beneath the double top plate that is already there (so our beam will be 12.5" tall x 3.5" thick). There is only roof above (no floor) and it pitches away from the camera in the kitchen. The garage is below and a beam runs parallel to this wall.

I'm wondering about the ridge beam and specifically the double 2x4 post in the wall directly below. I would like to remove that and have my new beam sit on a post about 12" to the right of where that one is. Wanted to get others thoughts on this approach and see if there were concerns about not having a post directly below the ridge beam.


texts: Why are my joists smaller than standard size?

texts:
I was preparing to replace a cantilevered rim joist on my house today. I bought a 2x10 treated board to replace it. I cut a piece to use as blocking and found that the board was much wider than the existing joists. I measured the board and it seemed to run wide, it was about 9-1/2". Then I measured my rim joist and another exposed joist in my basement and confirmed that the installed joists are only 9" wide.

I searched online and found that actual width of a 2x10 should be 9-1/4".

Why are the 2x10's on my house only 9"? Why are the green treat boards I bought 9-1/2"? My house was built in '88. Have the standards changed? Is there a tolerance to go along with the North American Standard lumber sizes? Did the contractor use factory seconds? I figure I'll have to rip half an inch off the new boards to match the old ones.

Here's the marking on the treated board


texts: Re-anchoring in existing (failed) anchor holes in brick

texts:
I've had a shelf come free from the wall on which it was anchored. The shelf is fairly deep (~2') and solid wood, so it's heavy, and it's meant to take some weight (think like a breakfast bar).

The two 90º triangle brackets supporting the shelf pulled the anchors and bolts right out of the brick wall when somebody leaned on it.

Now I have four ~3/4" holes in the brick from the previous anchors. The previous anchors look like this:

They've left pretty smooth holes. So I now need to work out the best way to re-use those positions on the wall for new, more appropriate/stronger anchors. I could drill out new holes in the brackets to avoid the existing holes in the wall, but I'd rather not if possible.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Update: A photo of the actual hardware. They're 1/2" holes, according to the writing on the anchor.


texts: Connect 1/4“ supply line to 3/8” outer diameter faucet line

texts: The 3/8 " end of the 1/2" to 3/8 " faucet connector neither fits a 3/8" pipe nor a 1/4" pipe. Right now I have to find a connector which connects the 3/8" end of the faucet connector to 1/4" pipe. Which connector should I be looking for ?


texts: Replacement of flex duct throughout home

texts: I'm wanting to replace the flex duct and the installation of my entire house, I'm wondering how exactly I should do that.


texts:
I am building a simple pool house with a large overhang roof.
Main issue I have is figuring out what beam size and span I need to support the roof properly.
Key Features:

Total Roof width: 29ft
Distance between Posts: 27ft (center to center)
Roof Type: 2x12wood with 2 by 12 Pitch (~10degrees)
Location: Ontario, Canada (snow load)

I was told I need a 10" Steel Beam but have some questions:

What specific size of beam?
Does it span the full width of the roof or can it stop at the posts?
Do I need LVL or steel beams going from cross-beam to the shed that is 10ft distance or can the 2x12 carry that load/distance?


texts: Best way to split an existing drain pipe

texts:
I am trying to tie in a new kitchen sink into an existing drain pipe currently servicing a bathroom on the other side of the wall. Here's the conceptual schematic of what I am trying to achieve:

And here's what the situation looks like in reality:

I am trying to figure out if I can avoid dismantling the existing T-Junction going into the bathroom and installing a new one for the kitchen in that 8" length of pipe, right above the existing junction.

Is this possible/good idea? For example, could I cut out most of that pipe and replace it with stuff like this?

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1-12-in-abs-sanitary-tee-10bag-hub.1000109027.html

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.tubular-drain-connector-15125.1000120040.html

That no-hub coupling says that it works for 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" drain pipe. Does this mean that it can take the existing 1-1/4" drain pipe on one end, and the new 1-1/2" ABS pipe on the other?

It seems that I'd need to fit 2 no-hub couplings and one T-Junction in that 8" length of pipe. Is that likely to work, or is the length insufficient?

EDIT: How much pipe do I need to leave in order for a Fernco coupling to grab it reliably?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


texts: One LED bulb in chandelier turns off after two seconds

texts:
I have a chandelier with 5 bulbs that is hooked to a dimmer. We switched the bulbs out to LED and when we turn on the light, after a couple seconds, one of the bulbs will turn off. It's not always the same bulb. A different bulb will turn off each time. Tried replacing the dimmer with a new LED compatible dimmer, but the same thing happens.
Thanks,
Rick


texts: Wobbly desk with IKEA tabletop and IKEA legs

texts:
I seem to have an issue with the table top and legs I have purchased from IKEA.  For reference, the table top I purchased is here: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50106773/ and the legs I purchased are here: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30177912/

The tabletop came with predrilled holes for legs like the SJUNNE and putting them on was pretty easy.  I noticed however that the table wobbles whenever I type or even just bump it which is pretty annoying.  I want this thing to be solid.

What I've learned/tried:

I've done a lot of research on the issue and I've learned a few different things.  Some people have used "L" brackets to attach the table to the wall to make it sturdy.  While this might work, I don't want to really do that.

Other people have actually put sand in the legs to keep the desk weighted down.

However, this didn't really seem to be the problem with my table so I took a different approach.

When inspecting the legs I noticed that it was the leg screwed into the base that would wobble. For reference take a look at page 3 to see how this leg is assembled: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/assembly_instructions/sjunne-leg__AA-846721-2_pub.pdf

You see, the leg itself is screwed into a sort of base to make it one piece and then you screw that whole piece into the table.  It seemed as though the leg that went into the base would wobble.

So on the base I put masking tape all around where the leg was screwed into and hammered in the leg to make sure it would be secure and not wobble around.  This has reduced the wobble a little bit but not completely.

I even tried putting washers on the screws to make the table more secure as well.  I am not sure if this has helped.

My table is on carpet, not a solid floor.  I am not sure if this makes a difference or not.

The questions I have are:

Is there anything I can do to reduce the wobble of my desk
completely??
Is the wobble something I can't avoid with a structure like this??
I've seen some Trusses that IKEA sells, but they don't screw into the desk which lead me to believe I will have the same problem: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10118971/ ... Will this be better to reduce wobbling?


texts: Lawn irrigation system with shallow well supplied water is slow to start spraying at sprinklers

texts:
My property has a lawn irrigation system that is supplied by a shallow well. It has worked satisfactorily for the last 4 years that I've owned the property. Recently the pump lost prime and I had no spray from any zone. I replaced the check valve in the supply line - it was allowing water to drain back and the pump was losing prime.
After replacement of the check valve the pump primed and all 5 zones worked well upon testing until the next scheduled cycle. When the system starts the sprinkles will pop up and spray then sink back down and it will take between 2 to 5 minutes for the first zone to start spraying fully and then the system runs correctly through the cycle. I can turn the system off for several hours or longer and repeat this scenario starting on any of the 5 zones.
I've hooked up a line from city water to the pump priming hole and everything works properly, water flows from the sprinklers quickly.
I did repair a leak at the gasket at the end case of the pump. I can find no leaks on the supply side for the area I can see. I have started to dig up the supply side line with the intent of checking for leaks and replacing the foot valve but I've found the line splits at a tee and it appears there are at least 4 pipes that are teed into the ground to supply water to the one pump that is in the system. The vertically teed pipes are around 6' to 8' apart for the ones I can see. I haven't dug up the whole supply side lines at this time. I can only assume that all vertical drops have a foot valve on them but that is just an assumption at this point.
With all this said my thought to solving the problem was water was draining back at a point before the check valve. Does this seem like a reasonable conclusion?
What else should I be looking for that may cause this problem?
What is the best way to find a leak, if there is one, on the supply line. I dread having to dig up all the lines.
Any input will be appreciated. Thank you.


texts: Will this ductwork for my range hood work?

texts:
I installed a new exterior wall vent and ran 6" round galvanized steel duct work through my ceiling joists to the spot where our new range hood will be.
There was a significant amount of PEX plumbing that I couldn't move anymore, so I put a 90 degree bend and brought down the duct through the cavity.
Question: Will there be any issue having the wall behind that vent pipe un-drywalled and exposed like it is?
The range hood will cover that spot, but the duct pipe is closely hugging the wall and wasn't sure if that would pose any major problems.


texts: I have a length of exposed metal conduit on my plywood ceiling with several boxes for light fixtures along it's length.  I'd like to install a ceiling fan in one of these boxes.  I understand that I can use a wiremount box or another ceiling fan rated box and then install the ceiling fan on that box.  But I think the box would then be visible and  I'd rather have the electrical box be hidden beneath the canopy of the fan.  Is this possible?


texts: Why does the washing machine cause water hammer in the pipes in my bathroom?

texts: We recently replaced the valve in our bathtub/shower as hot water would not go to the shower faucet.  Now every time the washing machine fills (located downstairs other side of house), the pipes bang very loudly in the bathroom where the valve was fixed.  Does this mean the valve is faulty or needs to be replaced again?


texts: Why has my ceiling fan's speed become slower?

texts:
We have owned a Minka Aire ceiling fan for about 4 years and it has been great overall; running for 24hrs a day.

It has 3 settings and when we initially purchased the fan; the speed was noticeable and the air movement was as well. It now seems as though the highest setting is not much different then the middle setting.

What would cause this and how can I get it back to where it was in terms of performance?

It comes with a lifetime warranty on the motor; however I am not certain that the motor is failing here. In researching this it appears the cause could be the need to oil the motor; however I want to get verification from the community before I take on that effort.

UPDATE:

Manual rotation produces no shaking or wobbling, they move very smoothly. If you are not familiar with these fans they are fairly heavy duty, not in any way unstable as would a typical $49.99 fan be that was picked up from a local Home Depot.

On occasion there is a humming that occurs, it is not consistent by any means and is fairly rare. In addition it will sometimes make a noise as though it is off kilter slightly, hard to describe. If I move back down to the medium setting, the noise subsides. Sometimes I will wait 10 - 15 minutes, turn it back to the highest setting and it functions as expected again, minus the overall speed. This is rare and will happen maybe once or twice a month. Keep in mind the fan runs non-stop, 24hrs a day.

UPDATE 7/27/12:

This issue still exists. It now appears that the fan operates at roughly the same speed across all three settings. The instances where it sounded as though it was slightly of kilter have not happened in many months. Any ideas what could be causing this? There is a lifetime warranty on the motor however the motor sounds fine, it's the actual speed that appears to be the issue. Should I simply replace it and move on or is there something I could to to potentially fix this myself?


texts: How do I remove the plastic at the tip of my faucet handle?

texts: My faucet handle has a plastic "lid" on the tip and I cannot remove it. I have tried prying it out, but I'm scared I will damage the plastic. Please help!!


texts: No insulation behind duct work, basement wall

texts:
Insulating my basement with 1.5" thick XPS foam to achieve R-7.5.  Great. All things happy. Except I ran into an issue.

My rectangle ducting (the main trunk) line actually stops a 1/4" away from my concrete wall.  A simple oversight I / HVAC guy made.  There was no insulation on the wall during install, so the idea wasn't in mind.  But now here I am insulating this wall all over with foam, and BAM, a void with no foam.

And, of course this void is at the top of the basement wall, where the outside is exposed to nature, meaning the most heat loss/gain at this point of the wall.

Obviously I can't insulate behind it.  Should I just leave an inch of air gap all around the ducting?  That's my best idea.  It's not an area I can insulate, and it's not worth tearing out the ducting to shorten the trunk.  It's just a little nerve racking after being so attentive to insulating the wall and now I have this hole, more or less.


texts:
Trying to remove Grohe single hole faucet. There’s no obvious nut to remove, the C washer might be threaded on but it can’t turn with the pipes blocking the twist and it won’t twist independent of threaded pipe anyway. What am I not seeing? [![enter image description here]

[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhW84.jpg


texts:
I am getting ready to have a contractor insulate my crawlspace. The exterior facing walls of my crawlspace are about 2" above grade, with the remaining 2 ft 6 in - 2 ft 10 in below grade.

One of the first things that we did before we moved in was to have some cracks in the crawlspace's foundation wall sealed, and a cement floor installed. We have lived in the home for about two years now and have been through some rough rains, so I am confident that we do not have any water issues in the crawlspace.

I would like to "go all out" and make sure that this space is as insulated as possible. However, I do not want to create an unfavorable moisture barrier in the process that could cause damage or health concerns.

Based on my research, I am seeing that polyisocyanurate (polyiso) foam insulation is the most efficient choice out there. I am thinking of having a contractor install 4" of polyiso on the foundation walls with at least 4" of closed cell spray foam insulation along the rim joist. In front of the polyiso, I am thinking of installing 2x6 framing with R-19 fiberglass batt insulation between each stud. On top of the studs will be drywall.

This is outlined by Building Science Corporation at the following page: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/enclosures-that-work/high-r-value-wall-assemblies/high-r-foundation-15-pic-2x6-framing-fiberglass-batt?topic=doctypes/enclosures-that-work/etw-high-r-value-enclosure-assemblie

So here are my questions:

BSC's research indicates that I should not have any condensation/moisture problems with this setup. Actually, they point out minor concern with above slab areas facing north... but luckily this portion of the house faces south. Anyway, I know that polyiso is not very vapor-permeable, so I wanted to double check what I am reading on BSC's site - should I be concerned about moisture? The contractor installing the insulation is a specialist in this area, so you can assume that the insulation will be installed properly with no air gaps, fully sealed, etc.
Do I need to fire block (e.g., install 3/4" OSB) between the closed cell foam and the polyiso? I envision that the closed cell foam installation would seal up the area such that there should be no ability for air to travel behind the stud wall and up into the joist space. Normally I would err on the side of safety, but I do not want to create an unnecessary thermal break. I know I need to check with my municipality - but what do you guys think?
Similarly, do I need to break up the polyiso foam every 10 feet to install fire blocking behind the walls (i.e., between the stud and the concrete wall)? See requirement three on this page to see what I mean: http://contractorkurt.com/2012/12/31/how-to-firestop-your-basement/ I would certainly prefer not to do this as it will create a thermal break and potentially introduce a moisture problem. Can I simply have the contractor use a fire retardant caulk every 10 feet to seal any airspace between the polyiso and the stud? Again, I know I need to check with my municipality - but what do you guys think?

Thanks in advance for the help!

-Frank


texts: Do LED lights require a special dimmer switch?

texts:
I have 9 canister lights in my kitchen that I've replaced with "replacement LEDs."  The lights are on a 2-way switch, one of which is a dimmer.  Things were good for about 2 years, but now all 9 LEDs (well, 8 out of 9) are fairly dim -- still usable, but very different light output than when they were new.  Perhaps 50% light output.
I'm wondering if this is a result of the dimmer switch.  The dimmer is about 12 years old, so was constructed in the pre-LED era.  I find it more likely that I have trouble with a single component (the dimmer) than that most of the canisters are failing.
Do I need a special dimmer to switch LED lights?


texts: How do I eliminate the "whooshing" sound of water running though pipes?

texts:
At every faucet and toilet in our house, when water is running, it creates a loud wooshing noise in the walls. I'm not sure how else to describe it, but it's like the normal "oh I can hear the sink or toilet on upstairs" but VERY loud.

What, if anything, can I do to reduce or completely eliminate the noise?


texts: How do I remove cat spray smell from the exterior of the house?

texts: My in-laws have a cat problem.  The neighborhood cat is spraying the outside of their house and evidently it really stinks.  How can they get rid of the smell?


texts: Replace vent cover or add mesh screening

texts:
Recently we've had some mouse activity so we're on a mission to find and seal up any possible entrances. Looking at this kitchen vent which is suspiciously located near where the activity is happening inside, we found that it does not have a screen on it, just a simple flap which does not appear to be doing a very good job.
I purchased both a replacement cover and a some metal mesh, but now I've run into the problem of how to actually install one or the other:
First: The two screws on this existing cover appear are screwed into the mortar in the foundation, and will not budge even a little.  Without removing them, I can't possibly install the new vent cover.
Second: Failing that, I have my backup wire mesh, which I can cut to the dimensions of the existing rectangular opening, or possibly jam up under the existing cover, but how I would attach that to the current fixture?
Vent

Inside of vent, showing the futility of the flap


texts: Looking to modify behavior of aux heaters

texts:
In my condo I have a heat pump with electric strips for auxiliary heat. When the outdoor temperature is quite cold, the heat never turns off. It reaches the set temperature, but keeps running.
When this happens, the aux heat turns on and off repeatedly. It seems like the same situation described here:
Question: Can  anyone recommend a solution that allows adjusting the behavior of the aux heat (E.G. a separate CPH setting for the aux heat), so that the aux heat stays on longer.


texts: Is my CL dimmer compatible with my light switch fixture?

texts:
Bought a Lutron CL dimmer after googling around and seeing how easy it is to install a dimmer, but when I got home and took a look at my light switch I'm not sure its compatible?

The dimmer has 4 wires, but my light switch only has 2.

Here is the dimmer and the instructions:

But my light switch has only two wires which are both black. And one of the wire connects to a thumb screw, but the other one looks like it connects to that drilled in metal piece.

What do you guys think? Do I need an electrician, can I do it myself or is it just not compatible?

She works! I installed it upside down but hey it still works I'm happy. Special thanks to someguy obviously couldn't have done it without you. I was going to take a picture of it wired up but I forgot.

The wires were very thick copper so it was a little tricky to wrap the wires around them. For the green wire I had to completely remove the screw from the fixture, wrap the wire around it and screw it back in.

Thanks again:


texts: Do mechanical drain traps exist for retrofit on inaccessible plumbing?

texts:
I recently purchased a home that has a shower with no drain trap.  The home is built on a concrete slab.  I plan to gut and replace the shower (and break concrete/re-work plumbing) eventually.  However, I am curious if there is some sort of mechanical trap that could be used in the short-term?

I am thinking something that could just be temporarily placed inside the 2" drain pipe (like this for repairing toilet flanges).  I am just trying to prevent the nasty smell/gasses that are coming up it (although it is just tied into a grey water line, not sewer).  We are hoping to continue using the shower even in the short-term before we can get it fixed correctly with a P-Trap.


texts: Water flowing through tank even though cold water valve is shut off

texts: I was trying to replace a water heater that only runs hot for about 10-15 minutes before getting cold. I shut off the cold water valve and tried to drain the water heater. It had a large flow and ran for about 6 hours. I got home from work to notice the water was still flowing quickly. I shut off the city valve and it quit flowing. Why would the city valve make a difference if the cold side was shut off on the water heater? Is there something causing the cold to run through the hot side to keep filling the tank?


texts: What size metric wire is required for 240 VAC 30 Amps located in house with run of 90M or <100 feet to a garage

texts: What size metric wire is required from a 240 VAC 30 Amps breaker located in house with run of 90M or <100 feet to a garage for washer, drier, fridge and lighting on 3 X 10 amp and 1 X 5 amp breakers located in the garage. And, please give me the URL for a good conversion site, Thanks.


texts: Load bearing capacity of Spur Steel-lok shelf standards with MDF shelves

texts:
I am building wall-mounted shelves for my electronics lab. These will basically be pieces of MDF supported by Spur Steel-Lok uprights and brackets, similar to what the picture below shows.

I can figure out the load bearing capacity of the supports from Spur's literature.

But what about the MDF? Given the thickness and the depth of the material, as well as the weight of the expected load, how do I compute the maximum spacing between uprights?

P. S. In case this somehow matters, I am specifically looking at MF (Melamine Faced) MDF.


texts: Relocating a sink on the perpendicular wall: any cons against running ABS through the walls back the the old drain?

texts:
I am relocating a sink from one wall to the perpendicular wall and I want to know if there are any potential issue with this
I am wondering if instead of breaking the floor I could do this:
just run ABS across the walls (1) back to (2) which is the existing plubing for the old sink
It is too tedious to create the traps in the diagrams but assume they are there

this is the new layout (please ignore the green pipe you see at the left of the picture)


texts: How do I replace a missing exterior wood shingle?

texts: I just bought a house and noticed one of the shingles was missing on the exterior above the garage. How would I install a replacement piece (just go up there and nail it in?)?


texts: 3-socket replacement extension cord end?

texts:
I have an extension cord on a retractable reel, and it has a molded-on end with three sockets, like this:

Unfortunately, the quality of the sockets isn't great -- at least a couple of them are quite loose and don't make a reliable connection when things are plugged in. I'd like to replace the existing end with a better one. There are plenty of good single-socket replacements like this:

I'd really like to keep the ability to plug in several things at the same time, but I can't find a 3-socket replacement end. Do aftermarket 3-socket cord ends even exist?


texts: How should I terminate a black plastic drain pipe?

texts:
I'm removing a flush toilet, with the plan to put a composting toilet in its place. The old toilet was short but elevated on a small platform. The new toilet is taller, so I'm removing the platform.

The drain pipe is black plastic. I assume I can't disassemble it at a joint, but must instead cut it with a hacksaw. Is that correct?

What's the proper way to cap the pipe? Maybe some day I'll want to put a flush toilet in again, so it needs to be suitable for doing that.


texts: I would like to use mosaic marble tile on my shower floor. Is this ok? If i do it do I need to seal it? My concern is not friction (this tile has plenty plus will have lots of grout lines) but the pourousness of the stone. Here is what Im considering from Lowes Home Improvement incase it matters.


texts: Why isn't water running through our radiators?

texts:
We had a plumber in today to bleed our rads. He also changed the batteries on the thermostat and fiddled around with the boiler. Since he left the temperature has dropped dramatically and he's refused to come back stating there is nothing he can do. HELP!
When we turn on the thermostat, the boiler kicks in, but we aren't getting any hot water running into the rads.
Is it the thermostat?
Any suggestions welcome, or it's going to be a cold night!


texts: How long does it take Macrocarpa wood to naturally weather to a silver colour?

texts:
If I were to use Macrocarpa wood as cladding, I am aware that it would develop a natural silver colour over time if left untreated. However, I am wondering how long it would normally take to naturally develop said silver colour?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
So I've started finishing my basement.  First thing is to put LED recessed lights in.  I'm going to string 4-6 LEDs together......problem is the ceiling is fixed and I don't feel like tearing the whole thing down to do the wire.  My basement is made up of two sections....both 13x30.  So picture two giant rectangular rooms side by side, separated by a cinder block wall.  One side has a finished ceiling, one does not.  So basically I have to somehow string the wire from the one side, to the unfinished side, go a coupe, feet, and head back to where the next light will be.

I can't crawl from one side to the other and grab the wiring.  What's the best way?  Get one of those fish poles from Lowes?


texts: Why is there mold on the ceiling of my second floor balcony?

texts: I have owned a new build house since August of last year. There is a balcony on the second floor and the ceiling of it is below my third floor. The side of the house has HardyPlank siding. Since last year I have noticed something dark on the ceiling which looks like mold or mildew. I also live in hot and humid Houston. I noticed that my neighbors do not have this, although I do not know if they just clean it. Is this normal or do I have a problem of moisture getting between the floor of the third story and the balcony ceiling? I’ve attached a picture of what is looks like. Thanks!


texts:
I have, what seems like a trivial question. How on earth do you measure the size of a head casing? I measured as it shows in this picture, going from the bottom side of the 45's.

I measured my door (several times now because I thought I was insane) and it's 36". I went to Lowe's to try and buy just a piece of casing so they could cut it for me, but they said they can't do miter cuts. So I was left to buy a head casing set which costs me $20. The outside of the package says it has two 80" casing legs and a 36" header.

However, when I put it up on my door, it is clearly not 36" long. I pulled out a tape measure and the head casing I bought in the set measures 37.5" long. Nothing on the casing set I bought even measures up to 36"?! This is the second set I bought because the first set I got, I assumed in mistakenly bought the set that had the 38" header (there was paint all over the packaging).

What on earth is going on? Have I been measuring these things all wrong?


texts: Is it ok to switch wires from gauge 12 to 14 inside a box?

texts:
Inside a multi-gang box I have a hard time working with the 12-gauge wire. Is it ok to connect them with a wire nut to a 14-gauge and then connect to the switches.
The box has switches to light, heater, humidifier. The circuit breaker is 20 amps. The current wiring is 12 gauge everywhere it seems. This is in a small bathroom in TX.


texts: How to find a very low U-value replacement window for a bathroom?

texts: I found 0.27 for a Pella 250 series at Lowe's.  I would like to find a window with a lower U-value.  How do I go about that?


texts:
For the past couple days I have noticed a foul smell in my living room and I can't seem to locate it. It smells more like dog poop and/or puke. I have a dog but she has never pooped in the house before though she has thrown up and at this point I won't rule anything out. The thing is, I can't find a stain on the rug or any evidence of an accident on the hardwood portion.

I mostly smell it when I am sitting at the computer and if I get on the floor to smell the carpet I can't detect it at all. I put down some deodorizer and vacuumed the rug and mopped the floor and that didn't help either.

I did just recently turn the heat on for the first time but the smell is really concentrated in one part of the house. Prior to the heat being on the AC was running so I don't think it was something in the vent necessarily.

Any ideas of what I could do to narrow this down? I am slightly losing my mind over this. Thanks.


texts: How to replace a receptacle with four hot and four neutral wires?

texts:
I am replacing some receptacles in my Master Bedroom. I have replaced 7 so far and they all have the same setup: 4 wires and 1 ground. They are straight forward to replace.

When I opened the last receptacle, I found out that it had 9 wires: 8 wires and 1 ground (see attached picture)I couldn't understand how this work and how I could replace it and closed it back. That receptacle is not connected to any switch.

Why do I have 9 wires for that receptacle? How can I replace it?


texts: Ceiling beam crack/split. Should I be worried?

texts:
The house is a recent purchase and I repainted (including the ceiling) before moving in so not sure if this was pre existing.
I just saw this today and concerned it's a structural issue vs the normal wood beam splitting I've read about online. There are subsequent beams that have similar albeit smaller cracks. I tried to color code the images as best I can.
The red is the most concerning, followed by green and blue.

Do I need to call a pro out to inspect or am I overreacting?
Thanks in advance for the help!


texts: What could cause taps for both hot and cold water to suddenly stop working?

texts:
There are two taps in one of the bathrooms of our house. A few days ago, one of them "went out": after giving a noise as if very suddenly closed, the water stopped flowing, only a little trickling remaining for both hot and cold when opened.

Today, the other tap (that was working unaffected so far) reproduced the phenomenon, with an even smaller amount of remaining trickling. Neither of them work now.

Does anyone have any ideas for the cause of this?


texts: Will a drill bit that came with a dremel be good enought to drill out a screw?

texts:
I have a dremel, and I want to know if the drill bits that came with it are good enough to drill out a screw in my shower faucet.

The shower faucet handel is broken and the screw is stuck in the hole. I would like to just drill it out instead of pulling the whole fixture apart.


texts: I purchased a 30amp duel breaker. To put it in the panel I had to move one of the 20amp single pole breaker up in the panel. No wiring was changed. After changing the position the breaker trips. I put it back in same spot and it still trips? What could be the problem


texts: Identifying a piece of cast iron hardware

texts:
A friend has a very old house, and while exploring it found the following piece of cast iron hardware. It's about 2 1/2" across, has four holes with what seems to be set screws, and a fifth taller central hole. There are five mounting points that seem suited for flat head screws. The text "STANDARD" is written on it (split into "STAN" and "DARD"), along with the digit "7".

Any idea what it might be?


texts: Adding electrical outlet for wall mounted TV

texts:
I'm adding an electrical outlet from my existing electrical outlet straight up the wall for my wall mounted TV.  There is a stud running horizontal at the midpoint of the wall, between the existing outlet and the new outlet, meaning I will have to cut another hole midway down the wall so I can drill a hole in the horizontal stud, to fish a new wire between the existing and new outlet.
I cut a small hole in the drywall where the new outlet will be and I was able to reach inside and feel the 2 electrical wires that run down the stud to the existing electrical outlet. There were 2 wires going into the existing outlet.
My question is, what is the best option for me?  Can I splice those electrical wires over to my new outlet and still have them run on down to the existing outlet?


texts: Two 14/2 source cables connect to one 12/3 cable

texts:
I have an old house - somebody (licensed electrician? I can’t be sure) did some electrical updating. What I have is four 14/2 circuits, each on a single pole 20amp breaker (none handle barred together). The source cables all come to a junction box where a pair of cables is spliced to essentially a 12/3 cable (but it’s actually THHN because it exits the junction box via surface mount conduit). This is done twice since there are four source cables. These are all general bedroom lighting/receptacle circuits.
My concern is that the neutral is shared once the 14/2 cables splice to the 12/3.
I’m a DIY’er with limited electrical background. Is this configuration a problem?
Sketch of the wiring:
The junction box is on a second floor apartment. Panel is in the basement. I would estimate 40-50 foot run. Everything to the right of the junction box is through surface mount conduit (except the 12/2 cable which is a short section through a wall).


texts: Exposed Aggregate Concrete Walkway - replacement or pour over

texts: I have a large exposed aggregate concrete walkway that goes to my backyard patio and it has partitions in between (maybe granite?).  I live in an older 60's bungalow and I assume the walkway is original and it is well past it's life span.  It is very difficult to walk on and chipping-away.  I am wondering if it is possible to go over it with concrete and if the concrete will bond. I am looking for a more modern look.  Any options or feedback would be greatly appreciated.


texts: Can anybody tell me why I have 12 wires in light box?

texts:
There’s are 8 brown wires, 2 black wires and 2 red.
I’m just trying to hook up a light fixture.


texts: How can I diagnose galvanic corrosion on a water pipe?

texts:
I have a newly installed indirect hot water heater and two of the pipes are showing significant amounts of corrosion.

Given that the installation is only 3 months old, I suspect that there may be galvanic corrosion involved. How can I test this and see if electricity is getting into the piping system and causing galvanic corrosion?


texts: Does this arc fault breaker manage one or two circuits?

texts:
I recently tested our breakers to see what was mapped to what.  In the process of doing this, I noticed that our arc fault breaker is handling a LOT.  Specifically:

4 bedrooms
2 bathrooms
Family room
Attic light
Dining room ceiling light.

It's unclear to me whether or not it's managing a single circuit or two.  I see two "15s" on the switch lever... so... so does that mean that there's actually two 15 amp circuits connected to it?

That would make more sense considering the load (still not ideal but certainly more reasonable than having EVERYTHING on a single 15 amp circuit).

Here's a picture:


texts: Should I be calling a plumber or someone from my water supply company to test for contaminents in my water?

texts: I have one bathroom where the hot shower water has a sulfur-like odor to it on most days and I'd like to have someone come and check it out but I'm not positive on who to call.


texts: help me understand this fridge auto-defrost circuit

texts:
This is a followup on a question I asked awhile back about temporarily disabling the auto-defrost circuit on my KitchenAid KRFC300ESS fridge: modify fridge to temporarily defeat auto-defrost?
I believe the solution is to add a method to temporarily break the connection to the defrost heater. I'll use an NC (normally-closed) relay, so that I can bring a low-voltage wire pair to the front of the unit, where I'd put a "disable" switch (I believe the defrost heater operates off line voltage).   I want to put the relay in the machine compartment at the rear of the fridge, on the relevant wire that goes to a connector into the cabinet itself (where the defrost heater is located near the evaporator coils).
But I'm loathe to do this without first understanding the circuit.   Here is the relevant part of the schematic, showing the defrost circuit near the bottom and some surrounding context:

I believe interrupting the WH/BK wire is a non-starter, because it's connected to a number of other components (perhaps it's a neutral).   So that leaves me with the OR and BR wires, both of which appear to have the ability to energize the defrost heater ("DEF HTR").  I suppose I could use a DPST-NC relay and interrupt both, but I'd really like to understand what they do.   The BR wire comes from a connector terminal labeled "STAT" - does that mean thermostat ?   Except I thought auto-defrost circuits were usually based on timers, counting of door openings and such.  If anything is a thermostat, it would appear to be the thing labeled "DEF TERM" ("defrost terminator"); and why does it have that resistor bypassing the switch, is it to leave a trickle current in DEF HTR when it's off, maybe so the heater itself doesn't frost up ?   The OR wire goes to a connector terminal labeled "D-SENS" and I have no idea what that means.
To add further confusion, here is a portion of a companion drawing labeled "Wiring Diagram":

Note that in this drawing, the OR and BR wires appear to be going to pins 3 and 5 on a single 9-pin connector, whereas on the schematic they appear to go to two different connectors. You'd think the actual physical connectors are more likely to be in "Wiring Diagram" than "Schematic", but who knows ? I suppose I'll sort that out when I open up the back and locate these wires.
For completeness, here is the entire page from the "tech sheet" from which I lifted the above images.


texts: Clothes Dryer not heating clothes correctly

texts:
I have bought a HOOVER VTH 980 NA2C-84 heat pump dryer 3 weeks ago, and no matter what program I choose my clothes won't get dry. it has worked at drying clothes before but not any longer.
it has the NFC Connected Hoover wizard app that has a 5 min program that checks the motor, filters, and inductor for any damage, it says everything is okay.
One thing to add, the dryer has a water disposal container that usually gets filled at the end of the cycle. it is not getting filled or having any water inside it since the problem started showing.
Any idea what can be causing this problem? provided that I clean the filters and choose the right program?


texts: Problem- air condition- compressor and fan outside not on

texts:
I'm new to hvac. My ac was working fine but it decided to die one day. I've been able to fix my ac, but it continues to happen(the same problem), and it is not easy to get to the ac (it's on the roof).
The problem is: there is a switch that provides electric to the compressor and the fan, and it often turns itself off.

if the ac stopped working(the fan and the compressor not running), i had to climbed up to the roof just to push that button to make it work again.

I would like to know how to prevent it from switching off.

Here are some more pictures

1.how to take this cap off- I worry I would break it.

2.this is how it looks when it worked. is it normal for the compressor?

Sincerely,
alt


texts: Scrape off the painting of bathroom celling

texts:
When trying to scrape off the original paint of my bathroom ceiling,I found some areas are quite hard to be scraped off by using the scrapper. I guess it is caused by the moisture or the previous painter applied flat paints straight onto bare gyprock without primer.
You can see on attached photo, the underneath brown paper is shown after I scrapped paint. Did anyone come across this situation? and is there any ways to scrape without damage the gyprock?
Many thanks!


texts: My hot and cold water are connected in the output of my water heater

texts: Never seen this before, the Cold water is connected to the hot water for the output of my water heater. Any idea what this is?


texts: Is there a way to deal with mold built up on the washer bellow tub?

texts:
It looks like people who used to live in the house before us would keep the washer closed for extended periods of time and here's the result.

I suspect it also contributes to odor issues the house sometimes has when not ventilated for a couple of days.

I tried a mold solution (mildew stain removal) from Home Depot, but it didn't help. I also found replacement tub, but it's $100+, so I would like to try find other ways before replacing it. (It probably makes sense to replace the whole thing if it comes to spending $100+.)


texts: Does anyone know if it is possible to rewire GU10 light bulb socket? When I was changing the bulb last time one wire got disconnected (see attached).


texts: What to do about a switch without neutral, in MA, USA?

texts:
I'm upgrading switches in my older (1978) home, putting smart switches in. I have found many "interesting" wiring situations, some I have remedied, some I have just left as-is.

Recently I opened a junction box with a single pole switch, controlling accent lighting above my kitchen cabinets. I was surprised to see a single 12-2 cable feeding the box. The black wire is hot, and the white wire is the load, with the bare ground protecting the switch.

What should be done here? Luckily, I'm able to add a smart dimmer because my brand (Lutron Caseta) doesn't need a neutral.

Is this wiring safe? I believe so. Up to code in Massachusetts? There's got to be a white wire connected to a black or red, somewhere else in the house (I haven't found out where yet) to make this work.

What needs to be done, here? Do I need to label the white wire?


texts: How to make the seam of a Quartz counter top disappear as much as possible?

texts:
We went counter top shopping this past weekend and was looking at Quartz counters. I asked about creating an L shaped counter and the rep showed me one in the showroom and I saw a seam! The counter in the showroom was a very busy style...there were colored swatches of materials throughout.  Perhaps that was a hard pattern to make an 'invisible' seam.

The counters we picked was essentially a white counter with a little bit of grey and brown in it.  Imagine swirling a few drops of color into white paint...
Maybe this will be an easy one to hide the seam.

Anyhow, what is the technique to hide a seam?  Make sure the joining compound that you use is the same color? Is there any sort of blending that we can do with the joining compound so that it blends with the left and right pieces of the counter?


texts: Why is my blower motor drawing 12 amps on low speed - and can I do better?

texts:
I have an old lennox pulse furnace on the ground floor of a utility building, it is only used sporadically for air circulation not for heating.  I replaced the blower motor about 4 years ago (original had bearing problems).  This is a direct-drive configuration.
The motor is a 5-speed (EMERSON K55HXNHD-4656) 115V 10 amp.  I have the motor wired using the slowest speed.  Problem is, it runs very hot, frequently tripping it's internal heat overload when run for an extended period (4 to 6 hours).  The current draw when its running is 12 amps.  It draws about 1.5 more amps on medium speed and another 1.5 amps on the highest speed (and yes the speed does increase quite a bit for each speed).  The run capacitor is 15 uf (and it is exactly that value when measured with a capacitance meter).  I measure about 1 to 2 amps of current through the capacitor on the various speeds.
When I pull the fan assembly out of the furnace and run the fan on a bench (no ductwork involved) the current seems to go up a bit (to 14 amps) on slow speed.
When I pull the motor and run it (no fan, no load at all) the current is about 3.2 amps.  The spindle turns freely, not much friction that I can tell.
The motor won't start without the capacitor, so I guess the cap is both a start and run cap?  I don't know if the motor will keep turning if I disconnect the cap after it's started.
Bottom line:  Why the heck does the current draw go so high when it's driving the fan?
This motor/fan is unusable in this configuration given that it acts more like a heater than a fan.  I would like to be able to circulate air and hopefully do it by using more like 4 or 5 amps - is this not possible?
Or is this not a good motor to use in this situation?  What sort of efficiency can I expect (what is the best I can do current-draw wise) if I obtain a different motor (with the same frame type) even if just a single-speed 1-phase 120v ?
To what extent could the capacitor be causing the motor to run hot?  Is it possible the capacitor can test ok on a meter but in circuit it behaves differently?  Or perhaps it might run more efficiently with a different value?  What capacitor current should I read anyways?  Should the cap current be X% of overall current draw, and if so what is X ?


texts: In brick/block datasheet I found strength parameter in N/mm². Does it mean how much weight can a brick hold? So, for example 10 N/mm² of 10x10cm brick could hold 100.000N ~ 10 tons? Is this correct? It just seems way too much (in my opinion). Or does this need some more advance calculation?


texts: I would like to replace an ite pushmatic panel with the square d type QO panel. The neutral bar or plate in the pushmatic panel is above the main breaker. The neutral bars in the square QO are at the sides. Rather then splice all the neutrals and grounds so they are long enough to reach the sides of the QO panel, I want to remove the bars from the sides of the QO panel and remount them horizontal in the area above the main breaker in the QO panel. They will both be bounded to the panel thru their mounting screws. Where the service entrance  neutral is terminated in the QO panel ,I can ,right next to it on the same bus ,mount another terminal. From that terminal I can install, the right size conductor to each of the remounted bars. Does this sound okay?


texts: How to measure power usage on a 120V circuit that can go up to 20 Amps?

texts:
I want to measure the power coming out of a 120V outlet that can go up to 20 Amps.  A standard household circuit is limited to 15 amps but this is a special situation where we're running our own temporary power grid off a generator. Specifically, the plugs are "NEMA 5-20P" where one of the blades can be slanted.

All the watt-meters I find online only support up to 1800W/15A since they're meant for home use.  Usually, that'll be fine, but situations where we start drawing more than 15 amps is exactly when I want to know how much I'm using.

Any ideas on to build something that can measure current/power when it can go up to 20A? At this point off the shelf doesn't seem like an option so I figure I'll make to make my own and would love some tips.

Thanks!