texts: Why is there no hot water from sink tap unless shower or bath has been run?

texts:
We have just had a new boiler and new bathroom fitted.

Shower and bath work fine - takes a minute or so for water to heat up, its a combi boiler and the boiler is on another floor to bathroom. However the sink tap in bathroom will not get hot unless either a shower or bath has been run.

My guess was that the sink tap does not create enough pressure to really get the boiler going, and the pipes need warming up.

To clarify the water from sink gets luke warm, at best, with no shower/bath. While if sink tap is run shortly after shower/bath the water is perfectly hot (~60c as expected)

Any tips ?


texts: Who should I call for plumbing upgrades?

texts: We need the hot/cold valves replaced for our washer and the kitchen sink/faucet replaced. Call a plumber or handyman?


texts: Today I saw this water hookup in at the site of a farmer's market. What am I looking at? Is this a shutoff? Is it frost-free?


texts:
I am installing an electrical subpanel in my garage and have a 2" PVC conduit run up approximately 5 feet from the panel through the ceiling to the garage attic. In the conduit i ran 2 12/2 NM romex runs for 2 separate circuits.

The AHJ said that this is not permitted and that i would need to run individual wires.  I plan on installing a junction box on the top of the conduit where i will make the connections between the NM cabling and the individual THHN wires i am running into the subpanel. My question is do i need to fasten the THHN cables in the junction box?  The NM cables will have the plastic insert in the knockout.  If it does need to be fastened, any ideas how?  I could drill holes in the jbox and use strap ties but don't think that meets code.


texts: Is a space heater or my window heating unit more energy efficient?

texts:
My roommate and I have noticed that, since our apartment faces south and we live right by the Hudson, our apartment is starting to be quite chilly in the evenings, and oftentimes is cooler inside than out. We haven't started turning on our heaters yet, and yesterday she suggested we buy space heaters as a solution for keeping our (fairly empty) apartment warm enough to read or surf the internet in without having to bundle up indoors or have our window heating units running for extended periods of time. (This gets expensive, and we were able to cut our electric bill by 75% by running the AC for short periods in the evenings alone last month.) Naturally, we would unplug and put away said units before we left for work each morning.

Our current built-in units are Islandaire brand under-window units, EZ Series, 42. We haven't picked a space heater yet, but chances are I'd just pick one up from Target.


texts:
Is it necessary to have a sump pump stand installed between the bottom of the sump-pit and the sump pump to keep sediment and debris out of the pump intake?

Alternatively, can I just put a brick or some other material under the sump pump to raise the pump intake a couple of inches away from the bottom of the pit to serve the same purpose?

The idea of a stand makes sense, but is it an add on that companies sell, or do many pumps fail every year because of sediment and debris in their intakes?

Examples of sump pump stands from the googles:
http://www.google.com/search?q=sump+pump+stand

A common search result on the googles are branded sites in different geographic locations selling their very expensive branded "Triple Safe" systems:
http://www.basementsystems.com/sump-pump/cleanpump-sump-pump-pedestal.html


texts: Shut off cold water supply valve on the heater, now can't turn it on

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The valve just spins freely. What could be the problem? I'm getting cold water pressure just fine but only an extremely weak flow of hot water. Tried different fixtures. I don't know why this happened. Nothing seemed to break, it didn't require a lot of force to close it. It's an electric heater.

Edit: https://youtu.be/gxz6fYfMloE

Posted a video of how it turns freely. You can see the whole tank at the end.


texts: Bathtub pump motor - ineffective ground through water pipe?

texts:
I opened up the space underneath my bathtub for the first time in this house. The tub is a "spa" style and has a pump motor to circulate water through jets. (I'm in NY / USA).

I noticed that the motor's control box is grounded to one of the copper water supply pipes with a  bare #10 or #8 copper wire.

As far as I can think there is NOT a continuous path of copper pipe to earth ground because PEX has been used in the house between the tub and our well supply. So I tested this ground wire with a multimeter:

From the hot side of a nearby 120V outlet it does indeed show ~120 volts to ground through that wire.
But it also shows a resistance of ~400 Ω between the ground of the same receptacle and ground through this ground wire. (Seems high?)

I was initially surprised to get any path to ground at all, but then figured it is probably through the water in the pipes. Its well water with plenty of minerals etc. and ought to be conductive.

Here is my quandary:

I am not sure if I need to provide an alternate ground for this pump. Does the resistance reading indicate the ground path is poor? On the other hand I don't understand it why this ground is even needed, since the motor surely is grounded through its power supply. Maybe the intent is to get an equipotential bond at the metal parts of the fixture? In that case I think I can leave it as is? But only one of the supply pipes is bonded (maybe the other is made safe through the fixture).

Thanks!


texts:
This tub faucet (that is probably 20+ years old) has a pretty steady drip going and I'm not sure where to start to figuring out how to stop it.

(apologies for the grainy photo...just had my the camera on my phone with me)


texts: Why does my central heating unit continue to run after reaching its set temperature?

texts: Why will the central heating unit continue to run after reaching the set temperature?  It does not read that it is reaching a higher temperature, it just continues to run at the reached temperature set.


texts: What size and type of wire should I use for a 1000 ft run to create an standard outdoor 120 volt outlet?

texts:
I'm looking for advice on what type of wire and size of wire to use to create an outdoor 120 volt outlet that is 1000 feet away from my home. The device I'm going to plug in will pull a maximum of 80 volts and 3 amps. I do have options in my electrical panel for both 120 volt and 240 volt circuits.   I'm also open to copper and aluminum options.
T


texts:
When running ceiling drywall (sheetrock) on the main floor, it is screwed to the truss chords.  I have read on here that when there is a partition wall in the way, to just let the drywall float and have the wall board support this un-secured end of the ceiling drywall.  The reasoning was because otherwise there would be a crack from truss movement.

Does the same idea not counter-argue the idea of letting drywall on the ceiling "float" at the corner seam from ceiling to wall transition?  After the top corner is mudded, and the trusses lift up, it would lift the ceiling drywall which is mudded to the wall drywall, therefor causing a crack, correct?  I'm having a hard time finding the proper information that is not contradicting physics.


texts: p-trap installation by newbie: cement cure time

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I was installing a new p-trap under the kitchen sink:

Attached tailpiece to the sink no problem. Then I prepared a short piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe, put a plumbing cement on it, inserted one end to the  curvy end of the p-trap and the other end (also with cement on it) plugged in to ABS 1 1/2" adapter (the other end has threads and slip nut, it is put on drain pipe).
So all pieces fit each other well, and I put everything on, opened water to test for leaks for a couple of minutes. At that moment I realized that the cement has to cure long enough before water flows in! I shut it off, and left for 1-2 hours.
Now I'm wondering if all the cement I put on fittings is damaged and has no use. Should I redo my work once again, and give enough time to cure cement?
Thanks.


texts: What are some inexpensive options for replacing a single-stall garage door?

texts:
The house we recently purchased has a detached 3 1/2 car garage that has seen better days.  The entrances to the garage door consist of a 2-stall garage door, and a 1-stall garage door. Luckily, the 2-stall door is in pretty good shape- just needs a new opener, a bit of trimming/sealing, and a coat of paint.

The single-stall door, however, is a complete loss.  The door is rotting to the point that it is falling apart, the door sliders are falling off the ceiling, and the garage door spring is broken.  The good news is, I plan to use this side of the garage for a small workshop, and to store our lawn tractor.  In other words, I don't need an automatic garage door.  However, looking at the typical sliding garage doors, they are quite pricey, even in a single stall size.  Any thoughts on other options for doors?  Would it be practical to build/install a double barn door for the stall?  Any other ideas of a non-traditional garage door for the single stall side?


texts: Is half a Euro cylinder lock practical in a patio door?

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If you have a sliding patio door with a Euro cylinder lock in it, it probably opens from both sides. If you only wanted opening from the INSIDE, could you replace the cylinder with a half cylinder and blank off the outside hole? I'm thinking of this from a security perspective, so that there is no outside cylinder that might be attacked.

Realistically, the door can't be opened from the outside  due to other locks anyway.


texts: Why doesn't the paint stick to new ingrain wallpaper?

texts:
I painted newly wallpapered walls with white color (2 times). Now I want to paint a rectangular part of the wall in a different color. To accomplish that, I used tape to get exact, well-defined outlines.

The problem is: Removing the tape also removes (parts) of the white color underneath.

How can I apply the white paint such that it won't get removed when I pull off the tape?


texts: Can I connect the generator neutral to my mains neutral permanently?

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I have a 3 phase 15KW generator with four wires. I want to use it as a standby generator for my house. My house uses 1 phase 220 volts on two wires (no ground as the house is quite old). I have a 3 wire transfer switch. I was wondering if I could connect the generator neutral to my mains neutral permanently and just switch the live wires. I know I should avoid this but is it really dangerous.

p.s.

I am going to have a problem with balancing the loads
the generator is not branded i.e it made with a 1.6 litre Toyota engine (I think).

Now that its clear that I should have a solid neutral, (thanks longneck and bcworkz) is there anything wrong with implementing the following plan

The reason for using these devices is that I already have them.


texts: How do I change a toilet water supply line that doesn’t have a shut off valve?

texts: The washer has corroded but this supply line just goes straight into the wall. There is no shut off valve so I can’t just unscrew and replace it.  Any easy fix?


texts:
I am watching a TV program where they are restoring a ruin into a cottage. One thing that left me aghast is the fact that the roof was made with flat, very heavy stone tiles. Ater they rebuild the roof frame with wood, they put the tiles back on the wood by drilling the tiles and using a long nail down through the wood. It's just a matter of time that the nice british weather promotes rust on the nails and a 50 kg tile slides down to kill the poor chap walking by.

I have no knowledge of roof restoration, even less with such unusual tiling, but what is the proper procedure to fasten them without breeding disaster ?


texts: How can I convert an enclosed deck to an open deck?

texts:
I have an enclosed deck that is basically worthless. It has a metal roof and bakes in the summer (and spring and fall for that matter) making it way too hot to use, and leaks in the winter (and retains no heat). I'd much rather convert it into an open deck. There are a few obstacles I have to get through first.
Edited to include only The first question here:
1 - While the pier is anchored in concrete, that concrete is below the level of the dirt.
In this images the dirt around the pier is on top of concrete, however you can see the wet area where the dirt was and the the wood is beginning to rot. Will I need to replace this pier (and thus, all the rest) or can I pour concrete around it in a sonotube?


texts: What is the proper order in framing the basement walls?

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I am thinking of finishing my basement and am wondering what is the proper order of things for framing the walls.

Do I put up perimeter walls first with electrical, insulation and vapor barrier, and then do the partition walls or
do I do all the framing (both perimeter and partition wall) and then insulate the perimeter?

I favour the second option as that will allow me to close off the utility room before moving on to do the rest of the basement, but not quite sure if that is the way it is done commonly.


texts:
Remodeling our bathroom and I noticed the GFCI TEST button is stuck. Our GFCI outlets are probably 25 years old. So I couldn't test the outlet. I thought to my self, no problem, I'll just replace the outlet, i've done it 4-5 times already.

But for whatever reason this outlet (I guess) had a broke test button, but it still functioned properly over all these years.

When I tried to replace the GFCI, it kept tripping. I marked the wires, so i'm sure the wires were placed properly, but I could be wrong, and It have been that the previous wiring was done incorrectly?

The outlets in the master bedroom/bath room all work except 1. The outlet that's on the other side of the bathroom, it has never worked ever since we've lived in this house.


texts: When does glass wool need protection from damp?

texts:
We have a room projecting above our front door, with a concrete floor and 0.24m below that wooden rafters (if that is the right term, horizontal, 7 cm × 5 cm) beneath which a wooden roof (2.3m × 1.7m) is fixed, forming a small covered but not enclosed area in front of the door. The room above gets cold, so I would like to insulate the floor1 and was thinking of filling the 0.24m gap with glass wool (in two layers of 0.12m). I see that small amounts of water have in the past penetrated this space2; do I need to take precautions against a build-up of moisture, or can I expect it to disperse naturally?

1 I make take other steps, but am here only concerned with how to insulate this space (which I have open anyway).
2 There is some staining of the wooden strips, but no significant damage.


texts: Tooth Count for 6 1/2 inch Circular Saw Blades

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Why are 60T and 80T finishing blades not available for smaller circular saws?

Diablo makes 60T blades starting at 8-1/2 and DeWalt has 60T blades starting at 10in.  Is this because the smaller blade's circumferential rotation speed is not fast enough to make the fine-tooth blade effective?  Or are table saws the best tool for the finer-tooth blades?  Was hoping to get a cordless circular saw that could be used for precision cuts.

Teeth-per-inch based on @Ecnerwal's answer:

http://codepen.io/anon/pen/BpqqPE?editors=0010


texts: Why is there so much price disparity for a house painting job?

texts:
I have a 70+ year-old house with cedar shake siding that is in pretty bad shape and is in desperate need of a paint job. I know nothing about house painting, so I've gotten a few quotes for the job.

Usually when you need a contractor, there's a ball park range of what you'd generally expect to pay for a particular job, and then you adjust your expectations when you get bids that are higher or lower than your budget.

In this case, however, I've received 3 wildly different quotes for the job. I had a $4500 budget in mind, but the bids range from $3200 by an independent carpenter, to $7500 by a professional painting company.

Why is there such a huge disparity between the quotes I've gotten? All have included power washing, scraping, paint, and materials in their quotes. I want the job done right and for the paint to last 15 years or more.

I'm hesitant to go with the low bid because it's just a guy, but I don't think it's worth literally 2.5 times the cost just for the implicit guarantees that come with dealing with a bona-fide painting company.

How can I know how much something like this is supposed to cost?

I did get a bid for $5000, which is closer to what I had in mind, but he can't start work until the fall.


texts: Should the foundation wall be insulated when encapsulating a crawl space, or not?

texts:
I've seen conflicting info on this. Some sources say that you shouldn't insulate your foundation wall because moisture can get trapped between the insulation and the wall. Others say that the insulation is a key part of the encapsulation.
I'm assuming that the answer to which is right is: "it depends." So my question is, what does it depend on?
I'm assuming that some of the factors that matter are:

Is the sill plate sealed?
Will there be a dehumidifier?
Will the HVAC system be serving the crawl space at all?

What else matters?


texts: How can I raise grade near my fence without making soil contact?

texts:
My house is on slightly sloped land, and I am trying to fill soil to level the ground to make it more flat to lay lawn.
There will be 30-40cm height of soil that would go against the fence, but I don’t want soil to touch the fence as it add force and rot the fence.
I am thinking of few options:

Add Villa board and nail to the fence
Add plastic sheets against the fence
Add a sleeper retaining close to the fence along the fence

What are my options...


texts: Plywood Backed Drywall Equivalent to Studs for Hanging a TV?

texts: I need to mount a TV (~35lbs) to a wall without convenient access to a stud, but the wall in question happens to have a layer of 1/4" plywood on the back of the drywall. Possibly worth noting that it's held a ~25lbs iMac just fine for many years now, but I worry the larger TV might be the tipping point. Any thoughts about whether this will work or how I could safely assess it?


texts: Can you use gloss polyurethane for first coat when finishing floors?

texts:
When I had my hardwood floors professionally sanded and refinished, the contractor put down satin polyurethane for the base coat, then gloss for the top coat.

I'm now refinishing a floor myself. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the same gloss for both coats? I want the top coat to be gloss, and it's cheaper for me to buy a big bucket of gloss polyurethane and use it for both coats, instead of smaller buckets in different sheens.


texts: Will removing supporting cabinets cause table top to fall?

texts:
This question is not the same though as comments suggested.  This is specifically asking whether they table top will fall in light of how it has been constructed. It is not asking the best way to install a vinyl.  Maybe I want to try an alternative route but have concerns whether the table top will fall. Maybe I also want to avoid pluming work because I do not have tools/am no confident with it.

I am trying to get vinyl underneath some cabinets and I'm hoping I won't have to remove the tabletops.  I have provided pictures of how it seems to be resting.  It may be using the cabinets but were I to remove them the remaining support would be what you see in the pictures.

If I remove the remaining cabinets will the tabletop collapse?


texts:
We are changing the color of the outlets in the kitchen from white to black.  We removed two outlets from the wall (and took pictures of one to be sure to wire the new one correctly).
Both are wired in series although I don't know how many more are in the series. When we turned the breaker back on, it blew immediately.
There is a red wire, black wire, ground wire, and two white wires for each outlet. The red, black and ground were easy to identify where they connect.
Is it possible that we may have switched the two white ones and does that matter?
Also, to be safe, before starting we turned off four breakers that were labelled "kitchen plugs". Only one stays on now, two of them trip immediately when turned on, and one of them trips the fourth one.
As both plugs each had 5 wires going into them, my guess is there are more outlets we have not touched on another wall that are also part of this series.
How do we fix these two so that the breakers don't trip?
P.S. From now on we will mark every wire and its terminal screw!


texts:
I was troubleshooting 3 way switches and I noticed this. On this 3 way switch, there is one black terminal( common) and 2 light colored terminals( for traveller wires). I disconnected both traveller wires and just left the hot( power supply) wire connected to common terminal. When I check for current using no-contact voltage tester, I see the current for all 3 terminals when switch is in on position.
When I switch to off position, only 2 ( common and one light color) terminals show current.
I don't understand why all 3 terminals of switch has current when in ON position. In any state , only 2 terminals should have current. One common and one ( of two) light colored terminal.


texts:
Came home tonight and found my hall light didn't work when I flipped the switch. Went to the panel and found the breaker had tripped.

The only things on this circuit that I know of, based on what stopped working, are:
- hallway light
- closet light
- half bath lights and fan

All of these things were working this morning. I know because I used all of them. All of them were also turned off before I left. Normally, when,  I've seen a breaker tripped, there's something obvious like a hair dryer, space heater, or a short or ground fault. This one is so odd because it seems to have tripped while nothing was drawing current.

I have two theories:

The breaker is old and beginning to fail. I've read they can start to trip at random as they wear out. This house is over 100 years old. The electrical is definitely newer than that, but I am not sure how old it is. I suspect maybe sometime in the 90s at the earliest from looking at the panel labelling.
One of the switches for the listed lights shorted when I turned it off. If it was the last thing turned off, no one would have noticed anything. In this case, I suspect the closet light, as it's a pull-chain type fixture that doesn't seem well mounted. Maybe the wire shorted against the box?

So, here is my biggest question: can a failing breaker trip when there is no current drawn? That is, when everything on the circuit is off? If the answer is no, the problem is definitely a short or ground fault somewhere. If it can, I suppose I can replace the breaker.

I welcome the experts' advice. For the time being, I've left the breaker on the OFF position for safety.


texts: Apartment building's thermostat located in unheated common area is cooking the tenants

texts:
In my apartment building, we have a steam heat system with radiators in each of the six apartments.  The thermostat is located in the stairway/common area, where there is no radiator or exposed heat pipes of any sort.  Very bad design to say the least ...

What has been happening since it has been getting cold outside is that the common area is at a temperature which triggers the heater to turn on.  This pumps heat into the apartments until they are a sweltering 90+ degrees F.  It is horrendous waking up at 2am covered in sweat.  Any ideas on how this heating problem can be fixed?  Install a radiator near the thermostat?  Install more thermostats (in the apartments)?  HELP!

UPDATE
We are going to take it step by step to try and handle the problem.  So far, we've had a newer digital thermostat installed.  It hasn't been sweltering, instead it has been too cold!  When the technician came, he mentioned that the way the heat in the building was installed was pretty amazing, bad amazing.  Over the next few weeks we'll tweak the thermostat slightly to see if that helps.  We'll also have a professional come and check out the individual radiators in the building.


texts: What to do with ground wire in a double gang dimmer switch

texts:
I am replacing 1 of the 2 dimmer switches in a double gang box. I'm replacing the right switch in the picture.
The new dimmer switch (Lutron smart switch) has 3 wires, which includes the ground wire. But as you can see in the picture, the old switch on the right only has two wires coming out and no ground.
My question is: What is the best way to handle the ground in the new switch?
The junction box isn't metal and doesn't seem to have anywhere to connect the ground wire.
Apologies for the basic question, I'm super new to wiring and I've read the ground isn't super important, but I just want the correct/safest answer!


texts: How can I unclog a toilet that is clogged due to non-toilet paper?

texts:
I have a 3 year old (deep sigh) who decided to flush a subscription card from a magazine down the toilet.

She did this a couple weeks ago, but I think we are just now seeing the affects of this choice-- our guest bathroom appears to be clogged.  When flushed, the bowl fills up and then very-slowly drains to nearly nothing.  I've tried plunging the toilet but that hasn't helped.

My next step is to buy a snake, but in an effort to save a few bucks and not buy another tool I'll not frequently use (I have a small home, with limited space for storing this type of stuff) I was wondering if there are other tricks I could try.  Personally, I'd like to  try pouring some form of Draino down the toilet but apparently your not suppose to do that.  Is there any chemical that I can use to dissolve the paper that is safe for water treatment?  If not, are there other steps that I can try before calling a plumber or buying a snake?

Thanks guys.


texts:
Have a frigidaire refrigerator that's a few years old. Noticed and odd problem - the refrigerator is dead when the door is opened (light off and compressor silent, not cooling) - almost like it's unplugged. But a gentle nudge or shake turns it on.
Any ideas ? First I thought it was the plug which is behind the refrigerator, but that's plugged it firmly and the no problem with socket.
It doesn't seem like a thermostat or temp problem because even the light is off with door opened.


texts: Hot Water stopped working in Kitchen Faucet

texts:
In the process of a failed attempt at fixing our dishwasher, I turned off the hot water valve beneath the sink. After turning it back on, the hot water side of the faucet no longer works!

Our faucet looks like this, with a single lever to switch between hot/cold. The faucet is attached to a long hose so it can be pulled out. The "cold side" works just fine, but turning the handle to the "hot side" results in the flow of water stopping.

Beneath the sink there are two twist valves- one for hot water and one for cold water. I am able to turn the cold valve on/off and it stops/resumes flowing water as expected, unfortunately this is not the case with the hot water valve. With the hot water valve open and the faucet turned on (on the hot-side) I can feel the hose that connects the valve to the faucet head warming up. This leads me to believe that perhaps the valve inside the faucet has failed?

Is there anything I can do to further troubleshoot the issue, or should I call a plumber?


texts: How to identify what outdoor pipe is for sprinkler system?

texts:
I am planning to add a shut off valve from a hose bib to the sprinkler system.  I am having some difficulty identifying what the pipe to the left (image below) is or what it does!

Seems random - but since this house is 50+ years old, nothing surprises me and I don’t want to tear something out or cap it off if it’s required in the outdoor plumbing somehow.

Anyone recognize what that is?


texts:
I'm tasked with producing a barre. This:

And I'd like to walk into the plumbing supply store with the right words for the parts.
I realize that in screwing pipes together, one can't make a square and so this is needed:

Can someone tell me what this is?
Last, this guy:

I can tell that its function was to mount a pipe to a wall, but again, I'm sure there's a word for it. (I am seeing "Iron Floor Flange" on searches along with a couple other names, hoping to confirm that's correct).
Edit: The finished product:

Total Price: $151.37
My daughter told me the lower cross bar was for younger kids so that went away, and that 4 feet was long enough, as she wasn't ever expecting more than a couple people over.


texts: Can I use a wire rope to support strings of lights?

texts:
This is a question borne purely of aesthetics. My wife doesn't want anything blocking the view out of the deck.

I'd like to install string lights above the deck. The deck has the house on two sides and nothing on the other two. It measures ~21'x16'.

My thought was to install a pole on the far corner from the house and run rope wire from the house to that pole (pink line in picture). Then, I'd run the string-lights-on-guide-wire from the house to the wire (black zig-zag lines).

My only experience with rope wire is an old laundry line. I know it can be strong, but I'm not sure if it can withstand this sort of stress. The string lights can't weight more than 20lbs, but I'm worried that the stress of a nearly 20' run, combined with the pulling towards the house is going to be too much.

Can anyone walk me through how to figure this out?

Update: Here's a thought for overcoming the pulling force on the end of a long pole...


texts: Can I remove an interior wall which supports a post under the roof ridge?

texts:
I want to remove a wall that breaks up the flow in our living room and dining room.  The wall is perpendicular to floor and ceiling joists.

The wall is about 3 feet from a support beam in the floor.

In the attic, the wall has a 2x4 that is attached to the ridge board in the roof.  This is the only board supporting the ridge board in attic.

Can I remove the wall and 2x4 in the attic or do I need to brace the 2x4 in the attic?
Why is there only one 2x4 off the wall?
Was this a support for installing the roof or is this really a supporting member to the roof?


texts: Is a side-vented furnace the same as a high-efficiency furnace?

texts:
I'm replacing the thermostat in my home and there is a separate step for "high-efficiency furnaces that are greater than 90% efficiency"

I have a furnace that is power side-vented with a PVC pipe. Is this the same thing as a high-efficiency furnace? Google searches bring up systems that are side-vented like mine, but I find a clear answer if all side-vented systems are considered high-efficiency.


texts: Can I improve the water pressure by changing from 1/2" to 3/4" pipe?

texts:
My water heater is 40' from my shower.

Would replacing 1/2" pipe to 3/4" help increase my water pressure?


texts: My Acacia dining table starting to show some huge splits or cracks

texts:
We got this Acacia dining table from costco and noticed after a year or so it started to crack on one end.
Initially the crack was pretty tiny and now it's very noticable.I was wondering what are the ways I can fix this?


texts: Mold coming from laminate - how to evaluate what's underneath?

texts:
Appartment

There is laminate in my 55m² appartment, except for kitchen and bathroom. Underneath that is some sort of "foam mat" (don't know the exact term).

At the desk below my chair there is a PVC mat that I have screwed to the floor on all 4 corners so that the chair doesn't damage the laminate. However, the laminate was already just slightly damaged (really slightly).

Current Situation

Below the mat, I have spotted green and white mold dots. So I opened the windows, lifted the mat and spoiled everything generously in alcohol.

After this, I have cleaned the mat with alcohol and the floor very generously over a few days to remove what's on the surface. Any cleaning utilities were long gone after an hour at max.

The big question however is...

How do I evaluate what it looks like underneath the laminate prior to possibly replacing it? What should I do in order to accomplish complete decontamination?


texts: Do I need a vapor barrier on an 8" pour + carpeting over tile?

texts:
So I am finishing my basement and the side I'm finishing has an extra 4" pour on it as well as old 8x8 asbestos tile.  My plan is to carpet over it.  Do I need a vapor barrier?  I get that concrete is porous but the tile on the 8" (4" on top of the original 4") leads me to believe that there already is a vapor barrier on the floor.

Thanks,
Joe


texts:
I have a 15 yr old Hampton Bay ceiling fan with light fixture and remote.  Worked well when we bought home for a few years but suddenly the bulbs in the 3 bulb fixture are extremely dim. The bulbs have the small screw in base and are only 60w bulbs.. I removed the light fixture and tested the 2 wires (white and black) protruding down from the ceiling fan and it showed 48v.
I know very little about electricity and voltage.  The fan works fine.  Needing some professional advice please!


texts: The ceiling height in the basement is 78" (under the 7' requirement for bedrooms).  I asked an inspector if it would be OK to add two rooms with closets and call them storage rooms when listing the house.  The inspector said that would be fine.  I had the rooms framed in with closets and electrical.  The inspector came to look and is now telling me they are intended to be bedrooms and won't sign off.  Does it matter what they look like as long as the house is not listed with bedrooms in the basement?


texts: What could cause a 5 year old valves to corrode so quickly

texts:
Unlike this question, the hot water heater is not a factor as it is happening to joints all over the house.  Further all joints are either copper on copper or brass on copper.

I've taken over managing my inlaw's property and it seems every shutoff valve is corroded and leaking.  The in laws claim the valves were replaced 5 years ago, and that's just what they look like after five years.  I've replaced a few out of necessity, but would like to fix the root problem before changing the rest of the house over.

The area I'm in has pretty hard water due to winter road salting which may be part of the problem. However, I've asked my neighbors, but none of them seem to be having this issue.

What is causing my pipes to corrode so quickly?


texts: What is this purpose of this access pipe in my bathroom?

texts:
In my new apartment in Spain there is an opening in the middle of the tiled floor that reveals a ~15cm diameter pipe. This descends around 60cm and has water at the bottom and some smaller pipe connections that I can't see very well. There was some grease and grime on the sides of the pipe that I have cleaned as best I can. Water leaving the sink, toilet and bathtub all seem to disturb the water at the bottom of this pipe so it appears to be connected somehow.

What is the purpose of this pipe?
What maintenance, if any, does it require?
Are there any signs of problems that I should look out for?


texts: When splicing neutral wires in junction boxes, can I use white electrical tape?

texts:
In junction box splices, can I use black electrical tape for black wire (hot) and white electrical tape for the white neutral wire?

Many people use black electrical tape or just 1 color of electrical tape in the splices in the junction boxes. However, I just want to know if it is a better practice to match the color of the electrical tape with the color of the wires (e.g.: black electrical tape for black wire splice and white electrical tape for white wire splice).

UPDATE:
I plan to use the NASA-approved soldered "lineman splice" (http://makezine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/western-union-or-linemans-splice.jpg). So I would use electrical tape to insulate the exposed wires in that case. So I am just asking if there are any common practices or best practices when it comes to the color of the electrical tape to use to insulate the exposed wires in the junction box.

Thanks!


texts: Can someone tell me if this plumbing is acceptable?  Looks like some type of vent. I am plumbing newb.


texts: Fasteners for securing cabinets together

texts:
I'm planning on using GRK Cabinet screws to fasten cabinets to the walls, but plan on using GRK trim screws to secure the cabinets to each other, like these.

Are these appropriate? The heads seem a little small, but I figured drawing force wasn't so critical on securing cabinets together, and these heads will hide nicely when countersunk into the cabinet frame.


texts: Smart Thermostat and 24 volt transformer direct to thermostat

texts: I have a hot water boiler and separate AC system and bought a wifi smart honeywell thermostat to get a C wire- installed a 24 volt transformer that has two wires if one goes to the C where should the second wire  land?


texts: Using 120v GFCI outlet for 240v AC Source

texts:
Most GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlets are being sold for 120v only. Can it also work for 240v source? Anyone among you has 240v source and yet successfully used any 120v GFCI?

Note in principle a GFCI detects only difference in current. A 240v outlet would have smaller current.. so can we say all 120v GFCI outlets can work for 240v source?

Does the power source of the GFCI circuit uses switching adapter technology or fixed voltage step down transformer?


texts: Need Help on Adding a Common Wire for Nest

texts:
I recently purchased a Nest thermostat. After couple weeks of usage, the Nest is constantly shut down due to low battery. I search online that adding a common wire is the go solution for this. However, I am not too familiar with electrical stuff, So I hope someone can help me on this. Unfortunately, I could not locate the circuit board, hopefully some of below pictures might be helpful.

Update:
I have reorganize the picture to match the number with scheme. Please let me know where I can connect my unused red wire to pick up the 24volt and used as common wire.

1. My thermostat

2. The box where I found my thermostat wires along with other wire bundles.

3. The switch found when I follow the red white blue green bundle going to the furnace.

4. Honeywell box.

5.

6. Transformer on the furnace.

7. Control

8. Scheme


texts: I have begun pulling off the original trim in my 1920s townhouse. The plan is to strip away the 100 years of paint to reveal some of the detail. The plaster behind the trim is in pretty bad shape. Do I repair it, and if so how, or just put the trim back over it.


texts: Approaches to level a concrete floor with shallow pipes

texts:
I have a situation very similar to How to level a section of raised concrete floor?. Except, in my case the obvious solution of grinding the high point is not possible.

In my hallway I have a raised area my wife asked me to investigate. I have removed flooring to uncover what looks like a retrofit of copper water pipes into the concrete slab, crossing the hallway. The pipes are set very shallow and the area matches cracks in the slab, representing a raised area (which, for illustration, we scale up and down when walking the length of the hall).

I have included a drawing which exaggerates the slope for the purpose of illustration. The slope from the high point is about 3mm in height at a meter's distance. The hallway overall has a remaining slope of about 1mm per meter, but it is consistent and not noticeable.

My first thought was "self leveling" until I measured how much elevation would be added to the various transition thresholds, and it would be adding up to 3cm of material to get the whole hall exactly level with the high point. What I am thinking now, is to add material with the goal of making the transition more gentle, so that the change is less psychologically noticeable. But I don't know what this technique would be called. I have indicated my idea in green. Whereas the self-leveling result in pink.

The flooring to be replaced is laminate flooring, running left-to-right in the diagram. The laminate flooring didn't have any trouble covering the bend; it is our feet that disagree with the wobbles.


texts:
I'm trying to understand why a whole house humidifier is placed on the cold air return where water is injected into the air flow and then it has to pass through a five inch filter before entering combustion area and hot air piping.
Would the filter not stop the condensation from going past it?
My own home has this and I'm lucky to ever get a humidity reading above 37% when it sounds like it's working constantly, I understood 40 % + is recommended. I just assumed the filter comes into play?


texts: if i turn off cold water valve at hot water heater will the pressure in hot water line be empty?

texts: I wanna work on hot water line, have gas water heater, if i turn off cold water at water heater will it be ok to work on hot water line/pipes? will the pressure be released? i already turned on hot water faucet and no pressure, just wanna make sure.


texts: Narrow conduit with 90 degree elbow - three thhn wires

texts:
Currently the narrow conduit (1 inch outside, so inside maybe 3/4 inch) has 2 wires (hot and hot switched). I want to include one neutral so I can change to a light switch outlet combo.
It is an old (1960) conduit, with a 90 degree elbow in the middle, so feels very "dry" and wires start getting damaged after a few attempts.

The wires were old so I bought black, white and red #12 THHN solid wires.

It was impossible to just add the extra wire (white) without fishing everything together. The wire would not even start moving properly (get stuck with the other 2 wires in the way).

However, my attempts to fish all three wires failed. Mostly due to this 90 degrees elbow - it would always get stuck there when pulling, and locking, not moving any further, I had to pull back. It seems that the conduit is too narrow to allow three wires to flow there coming from this elbow. At the start, is fine because I can adjust them, but inside the 90 degrees elbow it is hard to be able to make the right angle so the three wires go inside.

I once managed to finish two - the third wire ended up stuck there (it was very hard to bring the 2 wires past the elbow already). They arrived with their protective plastic with several scratches. It did not matter if taped all together or in different areas to allow better movement.

My questions:
- It is definitely doable to fish 3 #12 THHNs inside this conduit, if it were straight. Just feeding it, it moves through the conduit. With this 90 degrees elbow, however, is it something you still consider fully doable?
- Is it normal to be so hard to fish 3 solid #12 THHN when there are 90 degrees connections?
- What would you suggest doing in this case? Stranded instead of solid wire? Lubricant? Different wire? Anything else that I did not use?

I question what a professional would do to finish the job - I've been trying to do it for 2 days already.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts!


texts: How do I install a non-load bearing wall on a carpeted concrete floor and finished drywall ceiling?

texts:
I am looking to close off a stairwell with a new drywall wall. The area it will be installed is already finished with carpet stretched over the concrete floor and a popcorn drywall ceiling.

What are my choices for dealing with the existing carpet and ceiling?


texts: How can I increase the effectiveness of the A/C in a hot 2nd floor converted attic master suite?

texts:
Just bought a 1940's masonry construction house. House has a finished basement (cold as a meat locker), first floor (comfortable) and 2nd floor (too hot). The 2nd floor is an attic that has been converted to a master suite (with vaulted ceilings), and it's way too warm. The furnace is really old, so I'm installing a new one (with credit from seller) that has a 4-ton blower (old one is 3 ton).

The master bed (24 feet x 12 feet) has a single supply and two returns (all on the same knee wall) all at same height (wall is only 43" high and then it follows the pitch of the roof). Each return is about 6 feet either side of the supply.

Running an additional supply duct is going to be very destructive. The HVAC guy says using a 4-ton blower, putting a damper in the main trunk in basement, and splitting the supply duct in the attic will probably fix it.

Before I commit, I'd like to get some opinions on how probable a solution this is. I would have thought splitting the ducts wouldn't increase the air flow, as it's constrained by the diameter through the walls (isn't it?).

Would an inline duct fan help?


texts: Do I need to paint my house siding under my deck

texts: I have cedar siding on my Seattle home. I am repainting the house now and am wondering if I need to paint the siding that is below the deck level. My deck boards are pretty close together with about a cm gap between boards and the boards come flush and parallel to the side of the house. My deck is about 2 feet off the ground. Do I need to remove a few deck boards to paint the space under the deck? Any articles to support your answer would be great.


texts: Converted Oil Furnace to Natural Gas - Fuel Smell Issue

texts:
This weekend, we had our fuel oil furnace replaced with a natural gas one. The oil furnace broke near the end of the winter and we were waiting for a deal to kick in on a whole new furnace + A/C unit. The house was already piped for natural gas for our water heater and stove.

In addition to removing the old oil furnace, the team took out the 250 gallon tank from the basement that housed our fuel. To reduce the weight of the tank, the team removed 20 gallons by filling up four, five gallon portable tanks. We aren't sure how much fuel was left in the tank at that point, but we feel like it was pretty low. I wasn't downstairs when they were draining out some of the fuel, but they said that one of the tanks overflowed. I am not sure how badly it overflowed and the team said they used a 'degreaser' to clean it up. We live in Missouri where fuel oil heating sources are very rare so the team doing the install didn't have a lot of experience taking out fuel oil furnaces. They did a really awesome, professional job for the rest of the install and even helped hammer out part of our basement wall and re-run some vent tubing that wasn't up to code on our water heater.

During the whole process, it smelled very strongly of diesel fuel in our house. We thought this would go away. It has not. The removal occurred on Saturday and it still smell strongly of fuel on Monday. We are starting to worry because some of our linens are starting to take on this odor. Yesterday, we scrubbed the concrete where the tank was and where we presume the spill occurred with vinegar, soap and water. We then sprayed the concrete with vinegar and added some baking soda a few hours later. When we removed the resulting paste a few hours after that, it smelled strongly of fuel. After that, we weren't sure what to do next, so we just sprinkled a ton of baking soda on the floor. We have fans, an air purifier and a dehumidifier running in the basement. It is a walkout basement so we're planning on opening the door and running fans to blow out the door tonight. We held off on this because it is about 95 degree here. The basement windows cannot be opened.

Does anyone have experience converting from oil to natural gas heat and the resulting smells that occur from breaking down the old unit, draining the old tanks and any possible spills that occur in the process? Is this something that is expected or do we need to call some kind of specialty clean-up company before all of our beds, couches, etc...take on this smell? Are there any home remedies that we can use to help get rid of the cause of the smell?

Thanks.


texts: Code requirements for adhering wall light to electrical box - does the light need to be attached to the box?

texts:
I have a wall light which I'd like to mount on a wood board for decorative purposes.  Below are photos of the light from the front and the back, and then a photo of the light on the board.

I don't have an electrical box yet.  This will be going in on existing sheetrock.
 My plan was to mount the light on the board, feeding the wires from the light through a hole in the board to the wires in the box, and then mount the board to the sheet rock.  But in the comments I've been understanding this approach is not code compliant.

Some of the comments have suggested mounting the box in the wood board - that way the wires will be completely enclosed in the space by the light bracket and the electrical box.  However I am not sure what this would look like as I assumed the box by code had to be flush with the sheet rock surface.

Would someone be able to post a sketch of the proposed solution?


texts: Can a Ground Wire be attatched to a nail in wood stud?

texts: Guilty as assumed: I've installed a thermostat connected to a single electric baseboard. Is it possible to connect the load and line ground wires to a nail which is attached to a wood stud? OR, simply twist the two ground wires together and allow the ground at the panel to complete the setup?


texts: I've been working on a lighting project that requires some light diffusers and after searching around I keep seeing people recommend something called Perspex.  My only problem is that I can't seem to find this material anywhere.  I'm in the US, does it go by another name here? Is it easy to obtain and where?


texts:
My garage door (Geniepro screwdrive model 1/2 H.P. Model CM 8600-XL/M) opens completely but slides back down a few inches only (and stops). It closes without any issue.
As a result, when it opens, we have to give it a final push manually to keep it from sliding back down.
Any pointers?
I would appreciate any help troubleshooting this issue.
Thanks.


texts: Too many wires coming out of ceiling fixture

texts: Wiring in ceiling.1I'm trying to replace my kitchen ceiling light fixture but... coming out of the ceiling I have 3 black wires, 3 white wires, a red wire and a ground! I didn't take a picture of how they were wired before removing old fixture - yes, I know. The new fixture only has a black, a white, and a ground.Please help!! Thanks


texts: How to connect a 3 wire plug to a 2 wire outlet?

texts: Bought a vent fan that came with 3 wires, but homes here are only 2 wires (not sure which but no ground). What to do with the extra neutral wire? Should i cut it or twist it with the other two??


texts: Built a shelf out of 2x4s but some braces do not meet, will they hold?

texts:
I paid someone else to build this basic shelf for me because i'm no carpenter, but i'm a little concerned about it's integrity because it will be holding aquariums. It's a frame of 2x4s with enough 2x4 braces running from front to back for the tanks to sit on, each brace is screwed in to the frame at the front and back with two screws. The problem is that half of the braces were short so there are 1/4th inch gaps instead of them fitting flush against the frame. Will they be able to hold 225 lb tanks like this? Or is there a way I could try to reinforce the braces?
The mending plates were added when I pointed out that I was concerned about the gaps.

Edit: More pictures. One the top shelf all but the 2nd horizontal board from the left has the gap.

He also added this scrap piece on here when I told him I wasn't comfortable with the corner of this tank floating.


texts: Bathroom light switch, fan switch & GFI outlet under same wall cover plate

texts:
Bathroom light switch and a fan switch and GFI test/reset outlet are located together under one wall cover plate. Hairdryer trips circuit breaker and we have to reset from main breaker panel. Shouldn't we be able to reset from GFI outlet in bathroom?

Somehow the wall cover plate broke and light switch became loose causing a safety hazard. I want to replace the GFI test and reset outlet too, what kind should I get?


texts:
Over the past few months, the agitator on my Maytag LAT9416AAE washer has worked intermittently. Normally, I could get it to resume working by pushing and pulling the selector/start knob a few times or moving it back to the beginning of the wash cycle. Now, it has stopped agitating altogether and no amount of coaxing will make it work.

The agitator engages with the spline as it is supposed to. I removed the front of the cabinet and ran a cycle. The motor does not even attempt to turn the belt when the agitator should be activated. However, it works fine to perform the spin cycle. The washer fills and drains without a problem and the timer advances through the entire cycle.

Is it possible that the timer is not sending the signal to run the motor during the agitator phase? Or is there a method to isolate the failed component?


texts:
Good day. I had to cut a piece of drywall on the ceiling to run some electrical. I used the same drywall patch (that I cut out) to repair the hole in the ceiling. I used mesh tape and joint compound (USG Plus3) to repair the hole.
Since the drywall is not new (had paint on it), do I need to primer the patch or can I just paint over it?
If I should primer, what would be the best primer for my situation?


texts:
If the bed were a few inches higher, I would be able to store my suitcase beneath it. Is there anyway to raise it and still be able to support a person lying down?

I may be looking for something like this though $20 seems a bit much for something that gives a few more inches and I'm in Canada. I've heard of using milk crates but wouldn't they break? If not, where would I get them from?

The bed has wheels and is for a single person.


texts: I bought a small house from about 1970 (or there about.) It currently has only one receptacle in the living room and well I will admit I am most likely overloading this receptacle as my computer, TV, Game system, Monitor, and internet/wifi, are all plugged into the same spot. I know this is not a good idea to have them all one the same plug, especially since my plug has tripped once already. But is there any easy fix to this issue?


texts:
What's the best way to clean tiles? Especially in the part between the tiles (which the glue I suppose)?
Is there any good trick/recipe?
Shower tiles in case it matters.


texts: How do I prevent small tiny insects (bugs / ants) that are crawling on the walls?

texts:
Possible Duplicate:
  What is the best way to stop tiny ants from entering my home?
  How can I prevent insects from entering my house? How can I find their entry point?

Do I just spray some insect repellant on the wall? Do I just apply a new coat of anti-insect paint over it? Do I use wash the wall with vinegar or lemon juice?


texts: Can I connect the supply ground wire to a fixture's ground wire with a wire nut

texts: Supply has black, white and ground wires. Light fixture has black and white wires and a green screw for ground. Green screw connects to fixture itself. I cannot get the supply ground around the fixture's green ground screw and the ground is short to begin with. Can I get another ground wire, connect  it to fixture's green ground screw and then wire nut the two grounds together?


texts: Why does my GFCI outlet trip when a vacuum is plugged in downstream?

texts: Whenever I plug my vacuum into the downstream outlet the GFCI trips. I suspect the GFCI is at least 15 years old and the vacuum


texts: What tool can I use to block light from a 50W bulb?

texts:
I bought a lamp & the incandescent bulb is not fully covered by the shade. Since the shade is at eye level that hurts my eyes. What can I use safely to block the light?  Any tape safe to use? Or does anything exist for such an issue?

I'm using 2 50W olden type incandescent bulbs with the lamp.

Lamp I got:

https://www.wayfair.ca/lighting/pdp/brayden-studio-davey-61-led-tree-floor-lamp-bstu5008.html?piid%5B0%5D=26194658&piid%5B1%5D=26194659


texts: Correct Sander Markings on Wood after Stain has properly dried

texts: I re-processed my doors, and got to the third layer of stain. Unbeknownst to me,I had terrible sanding marks in my doors which I can see clearly through the third. Is there anyway to fix this without having to completely take off the stains i.e start all over again??


texts: What's up with the PEX on this shower valve?

texts:
I've been using PEX for a couple years now. I came across a few shower valves recently, but the 1/2 PEX lines for the hot/cold are not what I'm used to seeing. Please compare my photo (top) with a similar Moen model but a different type of PEX connection.

I've only used the PEX clamps that they sell at Home Depot, will that even work with this valve?


texts: Is there a safe alternative to electrical grounding for computers in Argentina?

texts:
I came across this APC product page for Microsol Isolator Modules, which purportedly provide "safe power in places with poor or nonexistent grounding." The unit is meant for Brazil, so it won't work in my case, but I'm wondering what the underlying technology or implementation is and if it provides some kind of "virtual ground" to simulate an actual ground.

I live in Argentina, where most houses are built out of concrete and many are old enough not to have ground wires running through the walls. I live in a second story apartment with no ground wires, no radiators or accessible cold water pipes. From what I can tell, running a ground wire through the wall would entail tearing down a significant portion of the walls and would be quite costly. The climate where I'm at is similar to Arizona, so I'm not even sure I could get to the water table if, in the unlikely event that the landlord and the downstairs neighbors were to give me permission to place a grounding rod in their interior garden below.

If I used a bootleg ground in combination with a GFCI outlet, would the GFCI kill the neutral end of the socket and prevent current from being pushed from neutral to "ground" to my equipment? Ground is tied to neutral at the service entrance but nowhere in the walls. Is there some other kind of second circuit breaker or box I could install in my room with a computer and ups that would be more like what's at the service entrance and less like a bootleg ground?

There is a metal gas pipe outside of my window. How dangerous would that be to use as a ground?

I have a door in my bedroom that the landlord has sealed off with duct tape because it opens to a staircase that leads down to the neighbor's garden. If I were to take the door out and seal it with concrete, sticking rebar in the wet cement, could I build an "Ufer" ground or does that have to be under actual ground?

Any better ideas than sticking a nail in the wall and calling it "ground?" This slightly absurd sounding "method" gives me a reading of 300 Ohms from neutral and a difference of about 15 volts when connected to hot (220 volts), compared to a hot-neutral reading (235 volts).

Electricity in Argentina is single phase, ~220v, 50Hz. We use a mix of older style European two prong cylindrical outlets and newer, three prong, Chinese/Australian style plugs (with neutral and hot reversed). Getting shocked by refrigerators when barefoot is almost a given here and almost everyone uses voltage regulators to deal with power irregularities. When testing outlets at home, I can see the voltage spiking to 1000 volts on my multimeter every few seconds, but only on some outlets (all are single-phase, 220v). What other kinds of voltage regulators will work without ground? Most of my electronics are dual voltage, so ideas including transformers that step down to 110-125v would be fine too.

Can I hook a voltage regulator up to a GFCI outlet and then hook a UPS into the voltage regulator to deal with nuisance trips from the GFCI and avoid hard drive failure? Can I still get surge protection without ground?

Other stupid grounding ideas: There's a grid of galvanized steel cables, spaced about one foot apart and set into the concrete walls outside which are there to hold up a grapevine. The cables are about the same gauge as a fence, maybe slighly thicker than the copper electrical wires in the wall. If I get good readings on the multimeter, can I use that as a ground? Will it electrocute the neighbor's cats who climb up on the vines or burn the grapevine? What would "good readings" (volts/ohms) be from the multimeter?

Box photos


texts: Risk of leakage when changing open-vented to sealed-system boiler

texts:
Apologies in advance for the long post.

I currently have a gravity-fed, fully-vented central-heating (CH) and hot-water (HW) system (large cold-water tank and expansion tank in the loft, hot-water tank and pump in airing cupboard, gas boiler in the kitchen), and I need to replace the boiler.

I'm trying to decide between a boiler that would keep the system exactly as it is (open-vented) or switch to a sealed-system (e.g., see http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/central_heating_systems.htm), which means the expansion tank and pump will be cut out as the boiler itself provides the necessary functionality.

The sealed-system boiler was recommended by the plumber, but I'm trying to understand a bit more in order to choose correctly. A specific advantage of the sealed system that the plumber mentioned was that the pump, which can be a bit noisy, would be removed from the airing cupboard, which is closer to bedrooms. However, he also mentioned that a sealed system operates at higher pressure, so pipework that is not in great shape can start leaking.

This sounds like it should be a major concern, especially if you start getting leaks in walls , floors etc., so I'm not sure why he's saying it so casually. The information I've seen on the Web is not much more helpful: there are various pros and cons (more important than noise) for both options, and the high-pressure/leakage issue is also mentioned, but different experts/sites disagree which one is preferable overall.

To make this more specific, given everything I've read, I would probably go with the plumber's recommendation for a sealed system, if it weren't for the major concern of water leaks. My house is not very old (about 20 years), but I've repeatedly seen that the developers have consistently done bad work, either out of greed or pure incompetence in some cases, so I generally assume the worst for things I don't know.

So the question is: how likely would this scenario of leakage problems be with a sealed system? I try to investigate things properly before making a decision, but there's also some urgency to this because my house is freezing at the moment.

Side-question or clarification: the page I linked to above mentions cases of exploding cylinders. If I understand correctly, is this only related to cases where the hot water is also at high pressure, hence the risk of hot-water tank explosion (I understand that in my case, only the central heating would be a sealed system and the hot water would still be open-vented)? Would there be a risk of anything else "exploding" (vs just leaking)?


texts: How do I remove scratches from bluestone steps?

texts:
I have some scratches on my front entry bluestone steps. I tried to remove them by brushing with water but they don’t seem to go away.
Any advice on how to remove the scratches?


texts: Hotpoint 9 cycle washer won't finish draining after agitate cycle

texts: My washer fills, then agitates, then drains out, but gets stuck draining. I can move the knob to get the machine to move to the next step in the cycle, but when it needs to drain again after the rinse, it won't stop draining. Again, I can move the knob to get it to spin out. The only issue I can detect is that the machine doesn't seem to know it's done draining. Thoughts?


texts: Remove spacer before filling gap between screed and bath tub?

texts: I need to fill the gap (approx. 10 cm wide and 15 cm high) between the existing screed (underfloor heated) and the tub. There is insulating/spacer foam around the edge (hard to see, white arrows). Do I pour the additional screed between this foam and the tub, or do I remove it before?


texts: Oven broiler has stopped working, but broiler element seems fine

texts:
I have a Whirlpool GJP84802 electric range and oven. Recently I've noticed that the broiler has stopped working. I had replaced the broiler component about a year and a half ago because it looked like the element had been shorted to the body of the oven and had blown the connector up. Anyway, the replacement was working fine until recently.

I checked the resistance of the element and it registers between 20 and 21 ohms, which seems "correct". I checked the voltage at each end of the element and it's 120V when broil is on, but a voltage difference between the two terminals doesn't seem to register -- it's like both sides of the element are hooked up to the same line rather than having a voltage difference between them, or maybe I'm misunderstanding what's going on? I tried measuring the current also and couldn't get a reading. I think I should expect about 6 or 12 amps if it's 120 or 240V through 20 ohms?

The bake functionality seems to work OK, as do all of the range elements on top.

What could explain this kind of behaviour? Could the internal temperature sensor have gone faulty? Something on the control board? As far as I know there's been no particular "trauma" and the broiler element itself is fairly new and visually appears to be in good order.

I'd like to avoid buying a new oven, but I don't have many other ideas to try out since the element seems to be working and line voltage is (sort of) being applied when I turn on broil mode.

Would really appreciate any troubleshooting ideas!

Update: I've included a shot of the control board. One side of the broiler is hooked up to the brown wire (indicated by the orange arrow). It's kind of a weird transformer/relay thing that, when the contacts are connected, has 120V between the two wires. When the contacts are open, the wires are connected. The other half of the broiler is hooked up to the blue wire (indicated by the blue arrow). The relays are indicated by the yellow arrows. I followed the PCB traces and found that the top right relay was connected to the blue wire -- i.e. the other half of the broiler. When I ask to turn the broiler on, there is a voltage difference of 240V between the two wires the relay is intended to connect, so I'm guessing the relay is not working properly as guessed. I will try to replace it!

Final Update: It was the relay! There's one relay for the bake function and one for the broil. The broil relay was the one in the top right of the image with the yellow arrow pointing to it. $5 in parts and a bit of soldering later and the broil function works again. I'm thrilled! Many thanks to Ed Beal for guiding me in the right direction!


texts:
Our building has decided to paint a 13-ft x 13-ft section of the roof that's leaking (just a few drops with lots of rain). This roof has a fence since it's an "outdoor" area that we all share, so it's secure to work there. We live in the Caribbean, so this roof receives lots of sun. The roof is not covered.

Someone went over there to quote the job, and he said that he would apply a primer and then an "ultra-white" roof coating. I was checking in home depot, and most (if not all) roof coatings are very white.

So my questions:

Since we don't need the roof coating to reflect the sun or UV rays, is it possible to just apply a very good/thick primer and that's it? Many years ago they applied a white roof coating, and it was so bright that we couldn't sit up there.

We only need a product that will seal the concrete and stop leaks. I don't know much about this, but I was thinking of something like a Satin Clear Seal Concrete Protective Sealer or a Water-Proofing Membrane. Whatever we apply, it can't be a bright white.

The ideal product would have the following characteristics:

Seals the concrete and stops the leaking
Since the concrete is very rough, it'd be great if the coating's thick enough so that the concrete doesn't fill so rough if someone falls.
If the product has some color, that'd also be great. But it's OK if it's clear. It cannot be ultra-bright white.


texts: How to estimate the load bearing of MDF plates on a wood/beam construction?

texts:
I have a 2000mm x 1400mm x 15 mm MDF panel (green) which I want to use on a to be constructed high plane for a bed and some space around. The depth should be 1600mm. The room is not rectangular which is why there's a width in the back (3150mm) and one in the front (2730mm). The construction should carry 600kg which seems sane for a bed and activities happening in it. The construction is made from wood (solid strucutre wood/german Konstruktionsvollholz).

I calculated the dimensions for the beams (red) to be 60mm x 200mm (to carry 300kg each over 3150mm) based on values from static tables. Now I'd like to know how to figure out the number of joists (pink) to support the MDF panel which depends on the load bearing of the MDF between the joists. The dimension of the joists/crossbars is 60mm x 100mm since that's the smallest normed dimension which I can obtain locally. The number should be minimal in order to save money (ca. 10 € per joist for me) and be just optimal.

My idea is that for n pink joists I can divide the capacity of 600kg by n and look a value up in a static table for the distance between joists for the MDF which I didn't find after a search engine search. I could then calculate the dimensions of the joists by dividing 600kg/n for the load balance of each joist and then search for a max. span value in the static table.

The space left of the MDF plate (supported by cyan joists) will be filled with OSB or MDF whose capacity I can then calculate based on the same recipe.

The connection between the red beams and pink joists is realized with shoes which aren't in the image. I assume they have no influence on the problem. The space between the cyan and red parts are based on my laziness in drawing/programming the image, they stand for matching connections.

The frame will be connected to wall/hold in position by the surrounding walls which can't bear loads, but will prevent any horizontal and diagonal movement.


texts: What is this type of fixing? (similar to cam/dowel)

texts:
I know this is similar to cam or dowel type fixings, and I have searched extensively for this part, but does anyone know exactly what type this is? Specifically the silver section, as I have enough of the screws/tighteners left, but I need more of the fixings.

They are not quite the same as generic cam/dowel fixings as they have this cut out for the screw to go in and hold them in place.

Any ideas would be very welcome.


texts: I want to insulate my attic that has my furnace ac coil and duct work in my attic and I would like to lower my heating bill because I use propane as my heating fuel so I need to know what would be best to insulate my ceiling or floors in my attic.


texts: How to remove this two-piece door hinge?

texts:
Trying to remove a door at my apartment, and it has a door hinge that looks like this

and here's an image of another one

They are both painted over quite a bit, so it's difficult to see how I'm supposed to attack it. Anyone familiar with these and how I should try to remove them?


texts: Samsung rfg238aars Fridge working - Freezer Not

texts:
My Samsung rfg238aars refrigerator has been giving me a lot of issues. The fridge compartment is working, but the freezer will not cool at all.
Here’s the sequence of issues in order as they happened:

The freezer was leaking. Cleaned the evap line, did not fix problem.
Freezer was icing over, really bad.
Heard a loud grinding/humming noise. Evaporator fan seems to be running when I checked.
Humming/grinding noise stopped. Freezer stopped working altogether. Cleaned condenser coils. No luck.

I’ve been searching for answers online but can’t pinpoint what the issue is.


texts: Settings fence posts above bottom of hole?

texts: When setting post in hole, should you put it a small brick or mixed concrete in the botoom before setting post?


texts: Is it safe to install this hot water tank from ebay?

texts:
Is it safe for me to replace my electric hot water tank with this continuous electric unit that I bought on ebay?

(I'm in Australia)

Technical Specifications

rated power                  6.0KW
rated voltage            220V-50Hz
working pressure             0.02-0.8(MPa)
International electric wire  4m㎡
Electric meter requirements  ≥10(40)A
Waterproof grade             △IPX4
Ammeter                  30A
Leakage switch           30A
Item Size                    330mm*220mm*65mm


texts:
About 6 years ago we did a remodel.  The electrician stated that a fan control was required in our laundry room, one of those things that looks like a dial and periodically turns on the fan.  I really hate the things, I can turn on the fan myself - and really it is never needed there.  But I digress -

Both fan countdown timers installed at that time are buzzing constantly and I need to replace them.  At the same time, I was thinking about just putting the fans on a z-wave controller and then I can schedule whatever I want - or even turn them on when away on vacation.

Roundabout, my question is this:  Are these kinds of timers (the round ones that click at certain times and turn the fan off and on) really required in a laundry area?  How about for a bathroom?  Would it be permissible to use a z-wave controlled switch instead?

Washington State, US.

Thank you.


texts: How do I install EMT conduit for an outdoor 6/4 power run?

texts:
I need to run NEMA 14-50 50A outlet from the breaker show to the garage (approximately 30') . From the red line, I plan to run 1" EMT conduit as show in the picture, four #6 wiring inside, 50A breaker and such.

I will pull permit from the city (Dublin, CA )
Breaker (Square D) is 200A with only AC connected.
A DIY doable ? what tool do I need to bend and assemble the  conduit ?

Quote is over 1k ..


texts: Application of stone veneer over painted wall

texts: I need to install stone veneer over second floor exterior painted wall. Is it necessary to strip the paint off or can it be applied over the paint with just mortar?


texts: What kind of bathroom floor is this, and how to remove it?

texts:
This floor is about 20 years old. It's some kind of fake plasticky tile (no seams between the tiles, looks like all one sheet) on top of a lighter gray papery material on top of a darker gray concrete-like material (but not as hard). I drilled a little hole for inspection, and I didn't go all the way down, but ultimately there is a wood subfloor at the bottom.
I'm looking to replace this floor with vinyl planks. Can I just peel off this plastic stuff, apply floor primer, and lay the planks over that?


texts: Can I leave ports open on push-in type wire connectors?

texts: I will eventually have 7 ground wires, and then another 7 neutral wires to connect each. (obviously I'm not connecting ground wire to neutral wires). I plan on installing leviton smart light switches.  I found a black colored push-in connector that has 8 ports at home depot. Is it ok to leave 1 port unused? I can buy one for the ground and 1 for the neutral wires I was thinking.


texts:
Currently, the water smells very strong of Iron (Water softener is currently broke, going to be fixed shortly). The neighbors in the area said the softener will get some of the iron but they had to install Iron Breakers or Iron Curtains.

We had our water tested and we had a very high iron/magnesium/manganese values.
Iron - 4.43 mg/L
Magnesium - 38.6 mg/L
Manganese - 289 ug/L

What are a few methods and how do they work to remove that from water? (Softener, Iron Breaker, Iron Curtain, Chlorinator, Cartridge Filter?)
What are the benefits of each method?
What are the typical costs?

How much iron will a water softener remove from the water? We purchased Rust Pellet salt to help when the softener is fixed.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Update
New softener was installed and the iron smell doesn't seem to be there like it used to so that definitly helps. They mentioned that the typical lifespan of a softener is 20 years but with the water we have (very high iron), the lifespan would be 10 to 12 years. He mentioned a iron curtain that uses ozone which ranges from 1700 to 3000 with annual maintenance of 200. Still need to research that and any other alternatives to iron removal though.

Update
Research
Iron Removal - http://www.purewaterproducts.com/articles/iron-removal
Sizing your well - http://www.budgetwater.com/proper_system_sizing.htm


texts: Coating galvanized cable so it's rust-proof and sun-proof?

texts:
The cable's galvanized, so what coating can I add to the cable so it's rust proof and sun-proof? It should be clear and barely visible. And it shouldn't be too expensive.

We live in the tropics, so we get 95° weather, tons of sun, and we're very close to the ocean. It can't crack, turn yellow, etc.

Thanks.


texts:
We have an old dryer vent that is no longer in use, but is still on the outside of the house.  Due to some regrading, the vent is now below the ground line (but boxed off).  This causes obvious problems when it rains heavily and often.

I was thinking of pulling the vent cap off and filling the most of the hole with spray foam, then after curing put an inch or so of mortar on the exterior edge.  I'm not too worried about needing to undo this fix (I know the foam can be extremely difficult to remove...)

But I haven't used spray foam before so hoping to get some affirmation so I don't do something dumb.


texts: What options do I have to replace a failed service panel?

texts:
What are my options to replace an old service panel?   We had a terminal get burned up in our old 1960s GE (TRX2012S if it matters, it's a split-bus/rule-of-six panel).

The tech who looked at it said the part is no longer available, but that if I could find another old service panel just like it, he could swap in the part. Otherwise, it's going to be $2,000+ to replace it with a modern service panel, which also requires getting up to modern code, which involves a lot of other stuff.

EBay and Google isn't showing any direct replacements (or the flush-mount TRX2012F).

What other options would there be to replace the panel internals?  Are the screw mounting holes compatible with modern GE panel internals? Is the main breaker separable and could that be changed alone?

Enclosure dimensions are about 20.5" x 12". Front panel dimensions are about 22.25" x 14".

UPDATE:

I'm looking at information on replacing the breaker box myself. As the homeowner I wouldn't be required to update anything else to get up to code. Does this sound like a good idea? I've done minor electrical DYI work but nothing this involved.

PICTURES:

More pictures:
https://imgur.com/6nSQQBu
https://imgur.com/zgjKBqA
https://imgur.com/Bpi4sRE
https://imgur.com/8vhZfW9
https://imgur.com/AZeDAKM


texts: How To Sand, Patch, Prime & Paint Exterior Foundation?

texts:
Our 76 year-old block foundation needs a facelift before new vinyl siding is installed above it.

This seems like a simple, inexpensive DIY project but just to make sure the paint doesn't peel by next summer, I am respectfully seeking answers to these questions:

1) What is the easiest, most efficient way to strip the existing paint and sand the surface?

2) What is the best primer to use after scraping/sanding/surface prep?

3) Most importantly, what type of paint should I buy?

4) What is the best method to fill/patch holes and gaps between 1-2" in diameter on the north side of our garage's poured concrete foundation? There is also a 1' long area at ground level that has completely disintegrated.

We live in South Bend, Indiana and our neighborhood is built on a predominately muck soil base.

Thanks for any recommendations you can provide.

Steve


texts: Adding recessed lighting to room with ceiling fan/light already installed

texts:
Ok,

First off I have done small electrical projects like add outlets, but never anything major. I have a loft with a ceiling fan/light that is just not bright enough to light up the entire room. The light is controlled by one switch, the fan by another. The house is 10 years old running 14/2 to the switches.

I would like to add a few LED recessed lights into the room to brighten it up a bit, and would like them to be on their own dimmer switch.

Can I wire the Fan/Light into one switch from one hot wire, then use the extra hot wire connected to the other switch to then power the series of LED can lights (then pig tail the neutral and ground)? Attached is a diagram of my proposed wiring.
Obviously I want to stay within code to be safe.
Thanks guys/gals!

Sterling


texts: Horizontal distance between drain pipe and meter base

texts:
I have a 3" cast iron toilet drain pipe that runs vertically inside the wall from a second floor bath down to the main drain under the house.  I am putting a two gang meter base (it's a duplex) on the outside of that wall.  What is the required horizontal distance between the meter base and the pipe?
Thank you!


texts: Installing tiles on bare floor after removing kitchen cabinet

texts:
We had to remove a kitchen cabinet to free space for a dishwasher, and now the visible floor is bare.
I have few tiles that I would like to install on that area, but I have no idea what steps I should follow to do it the right way. it is an old kitchen, 40 years old, I can see wood floor then another layer of wood then a layer of vinyl.
I'm looking for a fast fix for that area since our plan to renovate the whole kitchen in a couple of years. Appreciate your help!


texts: stanley garage door opener model 2200 will not run

texts: my mid 1980,s stanley garage opener problem started when the 2 motor mounting bolts came out and the motor hung from gearbox when door opened - door completely opened but would not close - i replaced mounting bolts but motor does not run even with chain removed. when closer button is pressed, i hear faint hum but no attempt from motor to run - after approx 10 seconds ,clicking sound starts as if door is obstructed. any diag appreciated


texts: Would a bit of grease on overhead door cables or bearings cause the springs to break?

texts:
I have a roll-up (2 car-width) garage door. The right top torsion spring broke. I would have fixed it myself, but no time. I called out a repair company, and they guy came out and said that I need to replace both torsion springs. He claimed that the rollers were the cause of the springs snapping and that the rollers weren't moving. Said there was garage lube (lithium grease on the rollers) preventing them from moving.

Is this guy lying to me, or can this spring snapping be caused by rollers not moving? He also said there was lithium grease or lubricant on the garage door rails. Would grease cause these rollers to cease movement? Seems kinda sketchy to me, but want to rule this out.


texts: How to remove high ridges on concrete flooring

texts:
I ripped up the carpet in my basement and I have some good curling (approx 3/8”)that I need to fix before I lay down new flooring.
I Looked at renting a wet grinder from HD but they are immensely heavy and getting that into my basement would be impossible. I looked at dry grinding but apparently the dust is extreme, I thought about creating a dust tent.
I Contacted a few guys to see if they would do this, but service is terrible and seems companies don't want business.
I am Just checking in here  for  other ideas.
What’s the best way to fix this?


texts:
I rent an apartment in a new high-rise and I´m on the 15th floor. Weird smells are in both of my bathrooms, with one being a lot stronger burdened with smell than the other.
In irregular patterns there are foul, sweet sewerish smells rising up around the area of the toilet and they make the whole room really smelly. And then on other days chemical odors are coming in the bathrooms and even affect the neigboring 2nd bedroom.
What has been evaluated.

Maintenance told me to water the p-traps, which I do on a daily basis. But this doesnt solve the problem. Smell continues to come.
A plumber came and inserted a camera into the pipe under the sink. He said everything´s fine with the pipes.

Maintenance and community management are out of ideas. I am too. But smell keeps on coming in.
Does anyone has an idea what this can be and what to do?
Thanks a thousand. Quality of life really negatively affected :(


texts: Is it possible to replace a ceiling fan speed controller with a switch? I just bought a house that had a ceiling fan with no light, which used a fan speed controller on the wall with different speeds. I added a light to the ceiling fan and would like to replace the fan controller with a light switch, that will turn both the light and the fan on. You would have to control each with the chains that hang from the fan. I replaced the fan controller with a light switch and it didn't work. Does it need to be connected differently? I only connected the 2 black wires and the ground. It is a one pole switch.


texts: Garage door remote has intermitted problem opening and closing

texts: I have a Chamberlain LiftMaster and multiple remotes which are working intermittently. The garage opens fine from the wall control, however when I pull out of the garage and use the remote it will not close. I have to use the wall control to close the garage, however upon my return the remote works. I previously had a LED light installed but I removed it and I also reset and reprogrammed all my remotes. I observed that once the garage is open from the wall control or by remote, there appears to be some kind of delay in allowing the remote to interact with the garage receiver. I noticed that after a period of time you will hear a click from the garage receiver which coincides with the garage light going off. After this occurs the remote will work but will not respond to any subsequent requests/actions. So pressing it once will result in the garage opening or closing depending on what state it is in, however if you click it again right after nothing happens. Hoping someone has a solution for this.


texts: How can double swinging closet doors be installed?

texts:
I have a coat closet that long ago had double sliding doors and now has no doors at all. I would like it to have double swinging doors, like french doors but without glass. I found a couple of pictures to prove that it has been done before, but they lack the detail necessary for me to reproduce the work.

The stop

Normally a single door has a piece of stop molding around the frame on three sides to keep the door from swinging past the "closed" position. With double doors that lack a center column, there can only be a stop along two sides of the door. This means an accidental kick to the "free" corner of the door will put undesirable bending loads on the door. How is this normally solved? French doors have a central column attached to one of the doors, but that means one door must be opened first and that's undesirable for a small closet.

The hardware

An ordinary door lockset won't work here because both doors must have a handle. I have seen "dummy" handles that don't have a striker bolt. I think that'd work but if those are used, how does the door stay closed?


texts: Would using a Y hose connector to join rain barrel water with tap water be a good idea to boost the water pressure?

texts:
Something like this:

but with it designed for the opposite flow of water.

I have a rain barrel that is usually at least half full and it provides enough pressure to use but it's not enough to water my garden efficiently.

Any advice?


texts:
I guess I screwed up with a screw's head. This is not unusual and the question answered all over the place, but all existing answers I found were for wood screws.

Mine's a small (diam ~1/12th inch, length ~1/6th inch?) brazen round-headed slot screw that holds the name tag of a brazen bell system, similar to this one. The screw was turned in with too much force. When trying too loosen it, the head lost some brass around the slot, so I can't get any force into the screw with my screwdrivers any more.

What can I try, before changing the whole bell system?


texts:
What kind of mortar should I use to point a fieldstone foundation?

The old mortar is crumbling, and sandy mortar is falling out onto the basement floor.  I plan to remove the crumbling mortar (see related question on how to remove), then point the foundation with new mortar.  But what kind of mortar should I use?

I have had a hard time finding definite answers about fieldstone foundations on the Internet, but I'll include some of what I've found here.  First, David Valley has this to say about fieldstone foundations:

  Most fieldstone foundations have, or had at some time, a thin mortar coating on the face of the stone. The purpose of this coating was to assist in holding the stones in place. This thin mortar coating will inevitably flake off from any moisture migration, revealing the surface of the stones. As this coating continues to erode, the mortar between the stones will begin to crumble and the soft, sandy mortar begins to slowly fall out onto the basement floor. It looks like a small pile of sand at the base of the foundation. When this occurs, tuck pointing is needed to refill the voids where the old mortar has fallen out. It's very important that you scrape away or chip away the crumbling mortar (in between the stones) in order to establish a small cavity or key way which can hold the new mortar that is being applied. Never apply new mortar over any old crumbling mortar, as this is a temporary fix and it will only last a couple years. All crumbling mortar must be removed in order for the newly applied surface to bond properly. While upgrading your field-stone foundation, only work on a section at a time. Do not remove the old mortar throughout the entire basement all at once. Complete all removal, tuck pointing and parging one section at a time.

  To avoid annual tuck pointing, you should finish the foundation with a complete top coating of mortar. Be sure it is lime based. This top coat does not have to look like a stone artisan's creation: It merely has to serve the purpose of keeping the newly installed mortar in place. It's sort of like applying a frosting to a cake.

This page seems to suggest that I should be using not straight type-S hydrated lime, but type-S mortar, which consists of one part Portland cement, ¼ to ½ part lime, and an amount of sand equal to 2¼ to 3 times the total volume of cement and lime.

Do I need to analyze the existing mortar to make sure that the new mortar has the same lime content, as suggested by some?

Should I expect the new mortar to start crumbling and releasing dust soon, or should it stay solid and dust-free for many years?


texts: How to hook up a WiFi thermostat. Having 5 wires and no C wire

texts: I have 2 wires coming up from my basement oil fired furnace and 3 wires coming from my central air handler in attic I am trying to hook up a Honeywell WiFi thermostat. The 2 wires from the basement I believe are easy to hook up. One goes to white and one to Rh. The three from central air are green yellow and red.  Which I believe will go to green, yellow and Rc.  The question is I have no blue wire, C wire. If I look at the terminal in the attic is shows a blue wire on one side but does not label it C. ( see attached pic). Can I run a wire from #5 to C on thermostat


texts:
I have a dual-oven Maytag range, model MGT8775X.  At the top, there is a short oven with a broiler burner on top, and at the bottom there is a full-sized oven.  A few days ago all three burners stopped lighting (bottom burner in both ovens and the top, broiler burner in the top).  The display indicates that the oven is heating.  The stove-top burners light without any problem so I have gas and power.

Some research suggests that a high-temperature igniter can fail, preventing the oven from lighting but it defies reason to me that all three igniters would fail at the same time.

Any thoughts what to try next to diagnose the problem?


texts:
I have a screwdriver which uses interchangeable bits and a magnet to hold them in place. The screwdriver takes 4mm hex shank sized bits. It seems this shank size is really rare, because I can't find any security bits with a shank of this size. Everywhere I look I see 1/4" hex shanks. So, I am wondering if there is an adapter that exists which converts 1/4" hex shanks down to a 4mm size so they can fit my screwdriver. I have seen a number of products which do the opposite, allowing screwdrivers/drills which take 1/4" shanks to use bits with 4mm shanks, but I haven't found any adapters which upscale the shank size I can use.

The closest thing I can find to what I am looking for is this product, but it adapts a 4mm hex shank to a larger square socket

Why is this? Where can I find an adapter that I need? I would actually prefer to just find a pack of security bits which use 4mm hex shanks so I don't need an adapter, but I don't think they exist.


texts:
I'm building a house and it has a non-standard roof and attic. The roof has 10x10 meters and there are brick walls on three sides, each 1.8 meters high.

Between the walls I will place a roof and all the water will go on the clear side. The roof has an inclination of 8 degrees.

Do I need to vent the attic and how should I do it?

I have been thinking of placing a few pipes in the brick walls, but I'm not sure how exactly I should do it.

Thanks!


texts:
I am turning an open nook where a makeup counter was into small linen closet.  There will be a partition wall with an opening for folding doors and a small bit of drywall on the outside of the opening. As seen in the pictures, there is a short finished inside wall and a finished outside corner that I want to extend drywall past.

What is the best way to do extend the drywall and build this partition wall?  Should I remove the corner metal piece and attach the new studs, set back about 5/8", with screws through the existing drywall and re-mud?

What's the best way to make the new and old look seamless?


texts:
I am currently working on putting in a basement bathroom.   Have a 4 inch drain pipe roughed in, which at it's location is the toilet.   Put a camera down to see the condition of the pipe and about 12 feet from the opening is a piece of cinder block.  The piece itself is fairly small, about the size of a 2 liter bottle cap.  I tried using a vacuum to get the piece out, to no avail.   Any suggestions short of tearing the slab up to get it out?

Can I just leave it?


texts: How do I repair this stair rail hole and screw back in?

texts: As you can see the screw on the right side is hanging in the air right now . What should I use to fill the hole and screw them back in? Thanks!


texts:
Do I need a neutral white wire to install a 220v GFCI breaker in the main panel ?

Currently have 220v, 2 pole red hot, black hot and green ground in the circuit running pool pump timer and pump.

Or can I use the green wire as neutral?
I believe the answer is no.

Please advise.
Thank you.


texts: Why would my bathtub spout stop leaking after fixing a water pressure issue?

texts:
Something strange happened in my bathroom. For a few days the tub spout was leaking non-stop. During that time the water pressure had been low and there was no hot water. I thought that the leak was coincidentally due to a bad valve seat or washer.

However, once the water temp and pressure issues were fixed, the leak went away.

Anyone have any ideas how something like this can happen?


texts: Is it dangerous to run electrical cords through heating vents?

texts:
I'm living in an old apartment, and my roommate has fed electrical cords through a heating vent from the living room into the bathroom, up to a power bar on the side of the sink. I see this as a double hazard and illegal.

The heating vent exits from the wall behind the toilet, about 3 inches off floor. He says it is safe because the power bar and the cords behind the toilet will not cause a fire because the heat in the vent will dry any condensation that might cause an electric fire. But wouldn't using an active vent be dangerous, as well as being near water?

I know very little about any of this, but doubt any amount of safety or grounding will make this safe. Would anyone know how to make this situation safer? Or give me some peace of mind so I can sleep.

Update:

This roommate is a contractor and is educated through college for home renovations. I cannot convince him to remove this hazard and will move out soon. I was told I was overreacting and do not understand how it works...so I appreciate the confirmation that it is dumb and dangerous.


texts: How should I refinish a pine shelf unit?

texts: I'm refinishing a shelf unit made out of pine and painted. It has a lot of holes and cuts in it (I think it was used as a cutting table, or was near one). It's solid, so I want to refinish it and paint it again. I want to patch the holes, nicks and dents. Should I use wood filler spackle stuff or plaster/mud to patch the holes?