texts: How do I set up a wiring closet that connects to the exterior of the house?

texts:
I'm looking to build a central wiring closet for ethernet, phone, and co-ax.  I would like this closet to have a single pipe to the exterior of the house, which service lines can come in through.  Also, fiber is not currently available, and I'd like it and any future technologies to have easy access to the central closet.

My concerns are:

What kind of conduit to use
How to penetrate the exterior wall

Basement wall is concrete
Could also be easily put through main floor siding

How to protect the exterior of the conduit from weather

Hopefully that's all I need to plan the project...


texts: How to choose between chrome-coated and oxidation-treated tools?

texts:
How do I choose between a chrome-coated (nice and shiny) and an oxidation-treated (dark oxidized surface) tool, all else being equal - same steel, same design, same handles, just one has its metal parts chrome-coated and the other has its metal parts oxidized.

How do I make a choice?


texts: How to fix toilet spacing doesn't meet minimum 15"?

texts:
Basement bathroom - for my quilting studio and guest suite. this will not be used regularly all year round.

I had to put a 1' filler along the wall for the linen cabinet to get the door fully open, and 1/2" filler strip between the linen cabinet and vanity for the drawers to clear, and that makes the toilet spacing from vanity to drain center about 13 1/2"; code minimum is 15". The other side of the toilet has 20.5" spacing to the tub. So the total space for the toilet is 34"- just not centered in that area. It looks like I could use an offset toilet flange, but the flange has already been installed, and it is not an offset. the toilet is narrow - the tank lid is 18" wide, so there is plenty of room for it.

Questions:

Should I talk with the inspector and see if he will pass it as is? the risk is that he won't and I need to figure out a fix.
Should I proceed with finishing and hope the inspector will just glance and say okay?
The toilet flange is already installed, and I understand to change that to an offset flange to gain the 1 1/2" spacing to meet code, will need to jack hammer out the existing flange or replace the custom vanity/linen cabinet which has been its own little fiasco.
Someone suggested putting in a smaller cheap vanity just for the inspection, then change it out to the custom one. Kind of cheating, but I am just not sure what to do !


texts: What is this metal plate in front of wooden joist for? Can I drill through?

texts:
I am trying to install a bike hoist on my garage ceiling, and ran into this piece of metal when drilling through the drywall to the joist:

It looks like the material behind the metal plate is wood. Can you tell me what this steel is? Can I drill through it to the wooden joist?

Update:

Since this is in first floor garage, with Living room upstairs, it doesn't help to check from the attic.

I dug the hole a little more from both sides, it looks like, and I can feel, that it is the regular 2 by 4 wood stud behind the metal plate, and there seems to have no wire etc I can touch around. So is it safe to drill?

I need to screw with a 3" lag bolt through the metal, so I guess I will need a titanium drill bit to do the work?

Thanks a lot!


texts: Should I extend existing 12/3 circuits with 12/2 for wiring attic?

texts:
As part of finishing my attic (insulation, drywall, etc.), I'm going to add receptacles and recessed ceiling fixtures. Currently, there are two 12/3 cables up there that are capped off, run by a previous electrician. These run down to the main panel to two 20A breakers labelled "Attic spare 1" and "Attic spare 2". If memory serves (I'm not home at the moment), each one is connected to a single-pole breaker, so I'm assuming the red wire is capped off in the box. I'll check this when I get home.

Regardless, my question is the following: for each 12/3 cable in the attic, should I extend it via a junction box using 12/2 cable? In other words, 12/3 going in (red wire capped off) and then 12/2 coming out? I have no need for split-wire receptacles or 3-way switches, so does it make more sense to just run 12/2 from the junction boxes? Or is there some reason that I should continue to use 12/3 throughout the room, to all the receptacles and fixtures? I don't have any 12/3 or 12/2 on hand so I want to know which I should plan to buy. Thanks.


texts: How to run cable down wall near where the slope of the roof meets the ceiling?

texts:
I can't really get my body close enough to the point where the hole needs to be to drop down the wall since the slope of the roof meets the ceiling in the attic and leaves only about a foot-and-a-half clearance.

I figured I can use a flexi-bit and run it up the wall then use a long object to hook the cable onto it from the top, but I'm wondering if there are any tricks to this that I'm unaware of? I have a fiberglass glowrod and fish tape at my disposal.

I am running PL-259 coaxial for an antenna in my attic.


texts: Why does a GFCI breaker trip when another breaker is accessed?

texts:
I just bought a new house, and on the first day there realized a breaker was tripping. It is one of only two GFCI breakers in the box. It's 20 amp with a bedroom/bathroom on it. I tested every outlet on that circuit to make sure they were wired correctly, and they were. I reset the breaker and thought it was fixed.

Long story short, as it kept tripping and I kept investigating, I realized that it trips whenever something is plugged in to a circuit controlled by another breaker (one with my back porch, family room, and bar top outlets on it). Within the breaker box they are on top of each other: the GFCI that trips is above the regular breaker that seems to be causing the tripping. Only the GFCI trips, not the regular circuit breaker.

What would you all suggest?


texts: Can I run just one wire to the sub-panel via schedule 40 separate from the others?

texts:
I have a 25 year old recalled sub panel, three wire, converting to new Eaton 100A. Want to add a wire to meet code

Is it allowed by code to run just one wire to the sub panel via schedule 40 to the panel separate from the other three?  The original wires are in the ceiling over living space (mess to access.) 2 AWG.

In planning I wanted to run a hot, but as it turns out I can't make the existing neutral in main reach the neutral bus.  (I suppose since it should be bonded I could lug in to ground.)  But now I'm planning to run the black wire as neutral (mark with white on both ends) and keep the neutral as the second black as it would be in a 4 wire (mark it red).  How much trouble am I in?


texts: Is a Garage considered a 'Dwelling' for standalone electric service?

texts: I just wrapped up adding new overhead 100 amp service for my parent's garage outside Chicago. My Mom is a retired ceramics teacher and wanted a 30A two phase kiln and/or welder in there and the original install was terribly inadequate, with buried #10 a long distance from the house, but the building is right near the power pole. So I put in a new POCO approved meter can, ground rod, panel, etc. I used #4 copper for the main service conductors, according to NEC 310.15(B)(7). But according to other charts I need bigger wire. It's only about 12' from the weatherhead through the meter to the panel. One thing nagging me about understanding the NEC is: is a residential garage / outbuilding allowed the same derating as a 'Dwelling?' The inspector isn't likely to be too strict based on neighbor's experience, but thought it was an interesting code question.


texts:
I have a two wire furnace. I’ve been doing a lot of research but haven’t found anything super similar to what I have at my house. I’m trying to find where to connect the c-wire. I have a couple of extra unused wires so I think I can just connect that to the c-terminal but I’m not 100% sure which one that is.

Based on my research it looks like maybe I could connect my Ecobee to the bottom 25V terminal?

Your help is incredibly appreciated in advanced!


texts:
The first floor of my home has a small bathroom attached to the kitchen. Bathroom has(had) a pretty standard 2 door closet. I say standard because it's the cheap kind you buy at Home Depot that's ready to go. You just frame it and nail the entire jam/doors in place.
Anyway, space is tight.. and I am changing this into an open faced storage area and moving a stackable washer/dryer into it.

I've removed the door/frame and need to know how much more I can safely remove. Is what I'm looking at just there to frame the door? I am 99.99 percent certain the rear wall of the closet is load bearing; the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the wall(s)

On the left, I'd like to take that down as close to the wall as possible.
This is the side the washer/dryer will go.

bad image of the other side.

the other side of the wall.


texts:
I have a 30x40 shop building detached from my home. I am upgrading the shop's subpanel when I noticed that the line from the house's main breaker panel does not include a neutral. Just two hots and a ground of 10ga wire.  In the subpanel, the ground from the house is attached the subpanel's ground/neutral bar with the neutrals from the subpanels breakers.  I think the wiring was done be 2008, but I don't think its correct to any older code that I'm aware of. There is no grounding rod for the subpanel. So my question is, how to proceed with the install of the new subpanel in regards to the absence of the supply neutral from the main breaker panel? Do I leave the subpanel wired as is or add a grounding rod and separate the neutrals and grounds? Changing the wire is not an option the building is over 200 feet away from the house's main breaker.
Please advise.


texts: Why did one toilet regularly clog, and now another one?

texts:
We have two toilets in our house and it seems that the guest bathroom seems to get clogged more often than not.  This issue is normally resolved by clearing the overflow outside.  I was about to attempt this fix but noticed that the toilet now flushes properly.  Nothing was done, to my knowledge, to clear this line.

I have now noticed that the master bathroom, which is on the other side of the house, is having issues.  The toilet can be flushed, however, it does not flush the waste.  It appears to be clogged as well.  Shortly after flushing gurgling sounds can be heard and the water drains slowly.

I’m curious as to what appeared to be a clogged toilet is now clear and the other toilet is now experiencing issues.

Can someone provide any type of feedback or have experienced this or a similiar issue?  I have called a plumber out to clear the guest bathroom and all they did was snake the line.  Since this is reoccurring and now has moved to the other side of the house, I feel that there is more to it than just a clogged line.


texts: Is it code-legal to backfeed both legs of a 240V panel from a 120V portable generator?

texts:
My question is very similar to this one (Can I plug a 120 volt generator into a 240 transfer switch with a modified cord/connector?), but I'd like to know whether DDS's answer is code-legal under the 2014 NEC.

To make sure it's clear what I'm asking about, I'd like to use a 120V portable generator to feed a 120/240V panel. There are no 240V loads, so I would like to simply install an interlock between the main breaker and the backfeed breaker to avoid installing an entire transfer switch panel. The loads throughout the building are within range for the generator, so I'm not worried about overloading it, but I would like for both busbars in the panel to receive power. I would use a 2-pole breaker, but both screw terminals would connect to the same wire from the generator.

Is this code-legal?


texts: Can I replace an air exchanger with a heat pump?

texts:
In my basement I have a rather large Air Exchanger:

I have heard that if I install a heat pump I may be able to replace the air exchange. This gives me two benefits that I can see:

The Heat Pump will be outside. Giving me more space in my cramped basement.
The Heat Pump will lower the temperature a bit in the house during summer (I have no air conditioning).

However, there are a few things that I'm not sure of:

Can the heatpump re-use my existing vents that are installed though
the house for the air exchange?
I'm not 100% positive what the air
exchange is used for… I know that it keeps the dew from forimg in the
inside of windows during winter. Will the heat pump do this as well?
I use oil for heat and hot water. To my understanding, I will not
need to use oil as much for heat (unless its a very hot day). So my
oil consumption should go down, although the heat pump will increase
my power charges. Is this going to be worth it?


texts: Can I plug a 13A washer machine into a 20A power source?

texts:
I recently bought a 2nd hand washing machine, when it was delivered there was no plug attached, just the standard 3 wires and a wire holder.

I pulled the plug off an old power strip and attached it to the end of the washer.

I got nervous when I read the wire holder, It said 25A, the plug is 13A fused, and the socket is 20A.

Will this work or will I need to change it?

I could not find anything on the washer regarding its electrical input.

This is what came attached to the wires when I received it:

This is the standard plug and wiring I changed it to:

This is the wall socket and power source just says 20A
Thanks for the help.


texts:
Our summer cabin in central Ontario has water supplied from a well. The line is well buried except where it enters the cabin - the cabin is on blocks above ground level and the line is exposed for the 2 or 3 feet under the cabin.

Currently it's protected using a "remote valve" - the cutoff on the supply line is a valve well below ground level with a long rod that runs up into the cabin where you can open it to drain back to the well during the winter. There's also one of those electric heater cords on the exposed section of the line, but we've never used it and I don't even know if it works.

What do I need to do to winterize that connection?  I assume you simply can't pile dirt around it because it will eventually freeze, and I don't trust the heater cord (power goes out all the time). What's the typical solution here?


texts: I would like to eliminate 2 3-way switches on one circuit

texts: I have 2 3-way switches operating the electrical plugs (No lights) in the living room. I would like to eliminate both switches so the plugs are on all the time.


texts: What differences does a drywall thickness do? Differnet Drywall types?

texts:
I am looking into drywall on the HomeDepot website and I see they have few thicknesses: 1/2", 5/8", 3/8" of the same Sheetrock brand 4'x8' Gypsum Board. What are the different use scenarios for each thickness?

Also, what are the different uses for the differnet types? For example, Gypsum, Gypsum Base, Firecode Core, UltraLight, Mold Tough, FireGuard, etc?


texts: Can I use a small (2" or 1.5") diameter drain "stack" from a second floor kitchenette down to my crawl space?

texts:
My main plumbing stack is on the north side of my house.  That handles my three full bathrooms, laundry room, etc.  On the second floor, south side of the house, I am building a kitchen area with a dishwasher in the bonus room space.  There is no convenient way to connect this to my main drain stack, but there is a regular 2x4 framed wall directly beneath the location where the sink will go.
Is there any issue with running a 2" or 1.5" cast iron pipe (to reduce noise) directly down from the second floor (through the existing wall below) into the crawl space to then connect to the main sewer pipe there?  I have no issues running the vent pipe up through the attic space from the sink location.


texts: Why is my bathroom floor raised up very high?

texts:
I know that it needs to be raised a little bit so that the floor can slope towards the drain. But on my floor the slant towards the drain is shallow, but the floor of the bathroom is much higher (3cm/1.2in above tiles) than compared to the hallway adjoining it. It is a concrete subfloor.

I would like to re-tile the bathroom, and I would like to lower the floor... but is there a special reason why it is how it is? Am I making a mistake changing it?

It's in an apartment - all the walls and floors are concrete. There is no wood at all anywhere.


texts:
I recently bought a home built in 2007. I had the chance to meet with the original homeowner who shown me some of the things that were on his list to finish before he sold the house but never got the chance. One of the things was the completion of a 100 amp subpanel in an outbuilding I will use as a shop. Eventually I will add another 40 amp subpanel that will come off the 100 amp subpanel in the shop, to go to a nearby barn in the future.

What he has set up already is a 100 amp  double pole circuit breaker in the main panel. I had no idea where it terminated at until he shown me a J box on the back of the house, which it was not tied into yet, but it was in the wall. It just needed to be brought out, so I did. I tested it to make sure the breaker operated that cable. All good so far.

The shop has a wire ran in ground that can handle the load also. It was coiled in the crawlspace, so I brought it out through the wall. The pic I have below is the pair I brought out.

What I am looking for in the picture is what type of weatherproof low profile box is out there that I can use to tie these into, preferably not using "bugs" that will take a ton of tape and what ever else is used to keep the cables from shorting out.

The cable from the breaker is going to enter the Jbox from the top, the one feeding the shop is going to exit out of the bottom.

Maybe it is expecting too much, but if there is a box that will recess into a 2X6 wall and leave room for insulation behind it and had enough cubic inches to handle the cable with out sticking out too far would be pretty cool. I imagine if there is such a thing, knowing the name of the Jbox would prove handy. I really want to stay away from a trough.

The next pic is of the subpanel itself. It has 3 lugs. I am figuring with the right name and a hopeful edit of my pic, that the ground wire can be sorted out too.

I figure, but I would like confirmation, that the new lug for the ground can be screwed or bolted to the back of the box and tie it in there.
The biggest cables are 1/0, I can't remember the size of the ground wire...

Then again, I may need to get a different panel for the shop, and use this for the future barn. I hope this one works, only because it will save a trip.

Thanks guys.


texts: I was looking at my service panel and noticed I don’t see any wires leading to the ground. Is it possible there is no ground or maybe the ground comes from my service? I have four wires coming in. I suppose there are 2 hot, 1 neutral and so is the 4 one ground? This is an older home and I am looking to upgrade my circuit breaker and I want to ensure I have everything in place before I talk to an electrician. Thank You]1


texts: Should I protect a shipping container from direct contact with the ground?

texts:
I'd like to buy a shipping container (something like the picture below) for my plot of land. However I heard some people saying that it can't go directly on the lands earth (don't know if it is true or not). So what should I use between the earth and the container?

Just making it clear, I don't want to build anything (no cement please) and its weight is 3.8 ton. Its measure is 12 meters x 2.59 meters.


texts: Fusible plug blew on mini-split A/C, how to fix?

texts:
I have a 2005 Mitsubishi mini-split that has been working OK but blew the fusible plug (on the low side just before compressor) this winter while it was in heating mode. Now I'm wondering what to do.

I discovered the problem by blowing nitrogen into the service port (all the R-22 is long gone) and feel it come out straight the fusible plug. The service manual says zip.

I gather this can be due to a blockage or to a refrigerant over-charge. I will see whether I can access the strainer. I'm not sure what else to do (or where to get a replacement plug given the unit's age).

The last time the unit was serviced is in 2008 where a service tech tightened the flare nuts due to leakage and added refrigerant eyeballing it, so it could well have been overcharged. It was used more heavily this winter in heating mode than previous years, but it's still suspect to me that it would fail after this much time.

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated!

NB: I know that getting a new R-22 charge is going to cost "a lot" but I also know that it's less than a new unit.

Update: photo of blown fusible plug laying on top of the piece of tubing into which it was screwed, which is covered by the black plastic tape to avoid too much more contamination. (Oops, looks like SX is having trouble with images?)


texts: Drywall tape required for patch to small hole?

texts:
Is drywall tape required for a patch to a small hole that's fastened only to the surrounding drywall sheet?

Specifics - I have a round hole, about six inches in diameter. I've patched it with a round piece of drywall. Drywall screws hold the patch to a board, and the board to the surrounding drywall.


texts: What is this bug? And should I be concerned?

texts: I live in a high-rise condo. I have noticed a few bugs flying or crawling around in the room lately. They look harmless, but I am not sure where they come from. They have a unique trapezoid shape. Apologies for the poor picture quality. I tried. What is this bug and should I be concerned?


texts: Is it within code to complete 12g wiring circuit with 10g wire?

texts: In installing a dishwasher on a dedicated 20amp circuit on 12g wiring, I've come short about 5 feet to run a line. I have some surplus, heavier, 10g wire. Would it be safe to install a junction box and hook 10g wire to the existing 12g wire to bring enough wire to the dishwasher?


texts: Lead painted floor below current subfloor: can we leave the subfloor when replacing main floor?

texts:
The kitchen floor in our 1860 New England house has many layers. I count 5. We would like to replace the current floor. It's starting to break in many places and we hate it. Below our current floor is a subfloor with a lot of adhesive. Below that is old hardwood (or maybe pine) floor that was painted and has lead.
How should we approach this? Can we take away the first layer, scrape of the old adhesive and reuse the subfloor to ensure that the lead painted floor remains covered? Or would you recommend a different approach?
ps: We are still testing the subfloor for asbestos in the adhesive but I think the kitchen was last done in 2004.


texts:
I’m building a soundproof room in a garage for a friend, after having done something similar for myself, but am not sure about the ceiling. I was planning to use two layers of acoustic plasterboard (roughly 40kg per 2.4x1.2m), with rock wool in between the joists. The joists in the garage look like this:

Would that be too much mass for the joists, or would it be okay?


texts: What is the following type of hinge called?

texts:
I am needing to buy a new set of lid hinges for an audio rack I just bought and the original manufacturer no longer carries the specific part. So I need to see if I can find something similar but I'm not sure what to use in my search.  All I know about this hinge is that it is called a "lid hinge" on the replacement parts site.

When I search "lid hinge" though there are all kinds of options and none of them look like the one I have. Below are some pictures of the remaining, in-tact hinge (the other one is broken).

Here is a rack similar to mine with images of the way the lid works as well as the hinges on the back. The model of the audio rack is Technics SH-KS52.

Apologies if this is off-topic.


texts: Are floor joists allowed by code to be notched at the ends?

texts: I'm repairing termite damaged floor joists in the crawl space a 1940s house. At the chimney, there are double 2x10 trimmers and headers as you would expect but on each side of the chimney one of the joists tieing into the headers is a 2x12. The ends are notched at the sill plates and they aren't under bearing walls. I can't find any current code requiring this and the way it's notched it may as well had been a 2x10. Is their a reason for this one joist to be a 2x12 or was this just something that's no longer required?


texts: My deck has begun to separate from house (see pics).  Look for help on how to move it back and secure to house.


texts: Cleaning larger sediment out of electric water heater

texts:
It's been a few years since I flushed my water heater and I recently went to do it and it's only dripping slowly, not running and flushing. Possibly related, in the last few months we've been running out of hot water much sooner - no change in usage, but now we regularly run out if even two people shower at once.

I had somebody out and they told me everything is fine and that he'd tested it and everything was good (though he was here less than 10 minutes). When I mentioned the failed flushing, he said sediment gets big if you want to long and you just need to get a new heater, and then just told me to take shorter showers and had no other help to offer.

My questions -

would a lot of sediment cause us to run out of water sooner - like it's harder to heat new water to keep up?
how can I flush sediment if it won't drain and trying to use a wire hanger to break it up doesn't do anything?
it's 12 years old - is it just worth replacing at this point anyway?

Thank you for your help!


texts: What is the best way to use a 3 flange(alcove) shower base in a corner setup?

texts:
I am having a hard time finding a quality shower base for a reasonable price.  I had to settle for a base that is designed for an alcove installation.
Could there be any issues if I am installing the glass like in the picture?
Please note that the close to the viewer corner shows how the flange shows up behind the shower glass. Since I have about 3-4 inches I could build  a small box and tile it and then put the shower on top of it.
The problem that I am seeing here is in the left side corner near the wall.
The flange on the right side could create an unwanted space there.

To addres @isherwood's comment with the base possibly open on one the sides where the flanges are here is a cross section from their documentation
I also think that the manufacturer would risk to build structural weakness if the shower pane does not have a full edge side (ie it would be hollow on the sides as the drop in tubs are) This is from their manual

And here is the right side view of the base from the US manual. Hmm that might be a section. However based on the cross section I do not see how they can leave that in the air

The description of my shower says solid surface -not sure what that means but I don't think it is like this one


texts: Attaching a surface-mount deck post into tripled-up joists?

texts:
My existing deck has a railing system that has no posts - just wooden ballusters secured to doubled-up joists on the ends and to the rim joist on the edge.

I'm interested in switching to a composite railing system, but would obviously need to install posts to do that. The easiest posts to work with my existing decking would be surface mount ones - they all include documentation on how to install them into blocking - but on one edge of my deck I have a somewhat odd situation.

There are four joists very close to that edge of the deck. An edge joists butts right up against two normal joists, and then a third joist sits not far from those ones.

I'm not entirely sure why the original builder decided to put 4x joists in this 12 inch section - but it would make using normal blocking for the posts problematic.

Would using lag screws (or structural screws like ThruLock etc) into the vertical joists be an ok way of anchoring a surface mount post? Obviously if one of the bolts was going to be going into that gap between the joists I'd put some blocking in there


texts: Separating a circuit with existing 12-3 wiring

texts: I have 12-3 electrical wire running from the main panel on one end of my ranch-style house to feed both the basement lights and the living room lights/outlets upstairs (opposite ends from the main panel).  The red wire is connected to a breaker and used as the hot for the circuit while the black wire is not connected to a breaker in the main panel, it is simply capped off.  If I were to connect the black wire to a separate circuit breaker (opposite phase, of course), could I safely branch off at the first receptacle/light in the circuit and use the black hot for the living room and keep the red hot for the basement lights and just "share" the neutrals?  I want the areas of the house to be on separate circuits, and thought I may be able to avoid a new run of cable the full length of the house.


texts: How to wire a 240V disconnect panel for spa that does not require neutral?

texts:
I'm wiring a 240V/60A hot tub which requires 3 conductors; one of these conductors is ground. No neutral is run to the tub. That said, I have a red, black, and green running to the hot tub from the spa disconnect panel.
From the main service panel, I'm trying to confirm whether or not I need to run a neutral to the spa disconnect panel. Which configurations are valid / invalid below, and are there other configurations I should consider? I have a hunch only configuration #3 is correct with respect to the ones below, but please confirm.
Notes on diagrams:

There is a load neutral terminal on the GFCI (colored in purple in the pictures below). Since the hot tub does not require neutral, I believe this should not be wired in any case.
Only the neutral wire differs between configurations. The black, red, and green positions are consistent.

Configuration #1
No neutral from the main service panel to the spa disconnect panel. Wire the pig-tail neutral from the GFCI into the neutral bar.

Configuration #2
No neutral from the main service panel to the spa disconnect panel. Wire the pig-tail neutral from the GFCI into the ground bar.

Configuration #3
Run neutral from the main service panel to the spa disconnect panel and terminate it at the neutral bar. Wire the pig-tail neutral from the GFCI into the neutral bar as well.


texts: How can I smooth and repair cracks in a plaster wall?

texts: My walls are uneven and have these covered cracks all over them, can I sand it down and slim coat it to make a smooth wall?


texts: What are my options for saving this building?

texts:
I have a small building on my property that is about 15ft by 10ft.  The building sits on a slope that runs downhill sort of at an angle from one front corner to the opposite back corner.

It sits on an odd foundation (at least odd in my experience).  The front edge is sitting on a solid-looking concrete footer that is in the ground flush, while the back seems more or less unsupported. The sides of the building rest on some kind of concrete walls.  I say "some kind" because it's sort of a chunky looking aggregate, with lots of little round-ish stones in it.  Perhaps a home-made mix of some kind?  The building has been there since pre-1948.  Basically, it's not the smooth, homogenous concrete you'd expect to see poured today.

I say the back seems unsupported because the back wall to the ground is wooden, and doesn't seem solid enough to me to be bearing any real weight.  But it could be. All I can say is that I couldn't knock it out with my bare hands.

This image is of the back corner where the separation of the side concrete and back wooden walls is clearly evident.  This gap measures about 3.5" at its widest (top), and has probably increased about 2" in the last 2-3 years.

This image is of the other back corner, on the downslope side (meaning the building is leaning downhill toward this corner).  Here, there is less separation on this side, but the angle of the side wall is still easy to see.

Both side walls show a pronounced bow front-to-back, and both are severely cracked top-to-bottom.  I think is essentially creating extra movement, as the walls are now no longer one solid piece, but really four that can now move separately.

I think the building is getting to the point where it's leaning so badly that it must either be re-seated or torn down.  I would like some advice on how you would go about trying to save the building.  Or if it's an obvious lost cause.


texts:
I have a PVC pipe inside the wall in the right front corner of my office closet.  It has holes in it, and it carries washing machine water from washing machine to the basement to dispose of it however it does.  The holes are causing water to leak every time I do laundry.

I purchased a pipe repair wrapping kit, and was just about to repair, when I realized that behind the pipe is a another wall and there isn't enough space to bring the wrap around behind the PVC.

So as far as I can tell, I have two options:

Go and buy a Fernco and connect them that way (I may yet have the same problem-I'm not sure the Fernco would fit either)
Cut into the wall behind the pipe and make a square so I have room to wrap.

I don't like 2 because I don't know what's behind the back wall, and I think it will be difficult to repair the drywall.

Here's a picture (the holes in the pipe are there because I'm a moron):

I could use some guidance.


texts: How to secure switch box flush with wall surface

texts:
Today I removed all the outlet covers in my home, and when I got to my bedroom light switch I noticed there was all this wood surrounding the switch itself. I tore that off as well, and after I did so I realized it was on there because the box that the outlet sits inside of is completely sinking into the wall.

When I try to screw the switch back into the wall it goes almost sideways. How can I fix this? I can almost completely pull the box out of the wall. Is this something simple like cutting the wall back and placing a strip behind it and then repairing the drywall, or is it something more complicated?


texts: Can I fix my leaking downspout without taking it apart?

texts:
I have a downspout leading to a large rain barrel that leaks from one or more of the joints.

Instructions I can find on the internet suggest either taking it apart and re-assembling with new sealant, or scraping out the old sealant and putting in new, which may amount to the same thing given the access I have around the joints.

I'd prefer to fix the leaks without taking it apart. Is this possible? For example, is there some kind of tape or wrap I could apply?

It's in the back yard, so appearance is mostly irrelevant.

Photo of the situation. Notes:

I'll do the repair once it warms up and dries out.
The leaks are present in warm weather too.


texts: How do I add a P-Trap to a copper drain?

texts:
I started to get a smell in the downstairs bathroom and after ruling out the wax seal on the toilet it is coming from the sink drain. We are in a split level so technically its in the basement.

Strangely there is no P-Trap, just a drain that goes into the wall and I assume straight into the sewer line as the drain doesn't come out on the other side (a garage is on the other side of the wall).

Is there a reason for not having a trap?

The main question: How do I install one. I am quite handy and have no problems working with PVC but wanted to get advice on how I disconnect the copper (is it copper?) drain and what I would use to go Copper -->PVC (links to home depot welcome!).

I am assuming i use a blowtorch to melt any solder but want to check first as I don't usually work with copper. If it was a pressurized line I would call a plumber but I'm confident with guidance I can add the trap.


texts: Wet smell, finished basement, aggravates when it rains -how do I find the source?

texts:
I have a light wet smell in my basement and I am trying to find the source of it ...not much luck so far.
The basement is finished (by the previous owner) and as far as I could see behind the finished walls where the water meter is or under the stairs, it was done using expanded polystyrene, some plastic sheeting which I believe it is the vapor barrier. I am not sure if batt insulation was used or not.

Anyway, in short, I don't want (if possible) to open all the walls to find out what is going on.
Is there any way to find out where the leak is without removing the drywall ?

thanks

Update: I have spoken with a civil engineer who explained me that the humidity circulates along gradient lines from wet do dry. The smell seems to originate from the furnace room. I had an old furnace that I just changed. The furnace room had a large opening outside, direct unobstructed opening for the old furnace to take in air. No pipe running from the old furnace to the opening. Now that opening is closed, they used that for the exhaust and air intake pipes for the new furnace. There were a couple of openings in the insulation so I guess the more humid air trapped between drywall/insulation/vapor barrier was getting out because the room was dryers hence the smell.
I am not sure why the smell stopped as soon as the weather got colder and it diminished to a hardly detectable smell after the furnace was replaced. I am now watching to see what is next :-) If you have questions post a comment here and I will get back with details. I am still trying to understand why a weather change and blocking that opening changed the situation. It is also possible that the high efficiency furnace  is able to better dry the air ...


texts: How can I waterproof wall sheathing along concrete steps?

texts: kick board with nothing between it and concrete is rotting. What can I do?


texts: Air Admittance Valve Testing Equipment For Inspection

texts:
I have an Oatey air admittance valve (AAV) installed in my home as part of an improvement project.

Today the inspector came and said that the AAV would have to be tested with an air admittance valve testing device, and that I should contact a plumber to see if I can rent one or I should buy one.

Plumbers I contacted recommended purchasing one due to the price of a house call and stating that they do not rent out their equipment.

I can find NOTHING anywhere on the internet relating to an air admittance valve testing device and/or where I can purchase one.

Does anyone know where you could find such a device? Note, this is not the same thing as a RPZ testing device which tests back-flow.


texts: Can I safely use a switch rated for "1A at 125V" with 240V,  assuming I stay below 125W?

texts:
I recently purchased a foot switch for a standing lamp. The switch is rated for 1A at 125V.

I would like to use this switch with a low energy lamp (typically 10W or below) but with a 240V supply. Is this safe?


texts:
Background on what I'm trying to do:

This question appears somewhat similar in concept to Can I control a bathroom extractor fan independently from the light? however, in my case, I believe the wiring was originally separate and was later retrofitted to be controlled together, so running new wires and installing double switch

A bathroom has a triple switch plate with two switches that are redundant...if either one or both are on (pointed up), BOTH the mirror lighting and the ventilation fan run. (The third switch controls a ceiling light). We'd like to control the fan and mirror lighting independently so we can install a dimmer for the lighting as well as have the option to run the fan without the lights during the daytime.

Although installing a dimmer switch in the other bathroom where the switches had not been paired together was straightforward, un-pairing the fan and mirror lighting switches correctly before installing a dimmer seems essential to prevent damaging the fan.

The real question:

How would the wiring for an existing bank of switches be modified to pair two of the switches? I'm hoping to see a wiring diagram for what a typical setup for a set of switches like this would be before coupling, and a diagram showing how the wiring is modified to couple the switches.

Edit:
here's a photo of the switches box:

and because it's really hard to see what's going on in there, here's a totally unprofessional diagram of the wires that are easy to trace/look relevant. The little boxes in the center of the switches on my diagram are the holes on the back of the switches, and the little boxes on the side of the switches are the screws. The yellow things are wirenuts and each has a ton of wires coming in and out and its hard to follow what goes where since everything is stuck together with paint. but it looks to me that the wire indicated in orange should go to the hole on the back of the middle switch and the wire indicated in red should be removed?

edit2: after loosening the screw terminal on the left switch it appears the orange and red wires in my diagram are actually a single wire that had an inch of the insulation stripped to wrap around the screw terminal. Would electrical tape adequate for replacing the missing insulation? Or does it need heat-shrink tubing or to be cut and covered with a wire-nut?


texts: How do you shut off this water softener bypass valve?

texts:
Post title says it all.  I am stumped.  It's the knobs on the left and the right side in the photo.  However, I am unable to turn them.  I have tried to pry the red clips up and then turn, but that doesn't work.  I haven't been able to remove the red clips, either.

Does anyone here know how to operate one of these valves?  They are unlike any I have seen online.


texts: How can I repair a buried 120v cable splice to make it meet code?

texts:
I have an electrical question. I have a cable feeding an outdoor yard light. It was cut, I spliced it, soldered it and wrapped it with tape. Is there a way to splice and bury it safely to code? If not, I'll need to dig a 30 foot trench to replace the whole length.

Was about 8 inches below ground, surfaced over the years and probably hit with the weed trimmer.

It is outdoor cable inside copper tubing. Years ago when I bought the wire I knew outdoor was gray. The box said outdoor but it is white like indoor wire.

It was spliced about 20 years ago but am fixing up house and like to hide the ugly splice.


texts: Cost effectiveness of replacing brass door knobs and hinges

texts: We have a home built in the 70's with antique brass hinges and door knobs.  We are thinking of possibly downsizing in the next few years and I'm wondering if it would be beneficial not only for aesthetics but resale to replace all the hinges and knobs.  We have already replaced the cream electrical outlets and covers to white for a more updated look.


texts: Cold water faucet now runs very warm, but not quite hot

texts: I'm trying to figure out what's going on with my bathroom faucet.  The hot water side runs hot like it should, but the cold water side no longer runs cold.  It's very warm.  None of the other bathrooms in my house act like this.  In addition, I believe it was around the same time that the handle is now quite hard to turn.  Can anyone explain how this could happen?


texts: Hot Water Tank limit switch tripping, but not over heating?

texts:
My just over 2 year old, professionally installed gas hot water tank frequently loses the pilot light. I've had the installer come out 4 different occasions to look, and every time, he's stumped at what the problem could be. He blames it on the pilot light blowing out because of wind gusts, or dust, or starvation or any number of things that are not tank related, and therefore not his responsibility.

As this was my childhood home that I just bought from my parents, I know the previous two hot water tanks lasted a total of 36 years, in the exact location, under the exact same conditions. The pilot light on those two went out exactly once, and that was when gas to the whole neighbourhood was shut off after someone was digging where they shouldn't have been.

Yet, this tank has shut off at least 8 times in under 30 months.

I've recently discovered that it is a limit switch that is causing the pilot light to go out. I can't prove it, but I don't think the tank is getting too hot; the water temp is kept quite low (slightly under 120 degrees), it seems very consistent temp when you use the hot water (aka it not's violently hot from time to time), there is excellent fresh air intake, a smoke test shows the flue is clear, etc.

It's just this little switch that pops:

http://www.johnwoodwaterheaters.com/en/parts_catalogue?part=315358-001&lookup=view

Once I press the the little tab on the top right side of the switch, there's a physical 'click' and then then the pilot light can be lit once more.

I've told the plumber about the switch, and he says that it's impossible that it could be the "high limit" because I'd have to replace the whole gas valve. When I show him that is this little switch, and I can reset it it, he tells me that the switch is not resettable.

So, my question is—besides needing a new plumber—do these little switches ever go faulty? Can this switch, which is 100% resettable just be a lemon? Is it as simple as ordering the part and replacing it by re and re-ing the two screws that hold it in?

The pilot light has gone out 3 times in the the last 3 days, including twice today (once over night when no one was using any hot water!) and each time I have done the following little routine:

Attempt to relight the pilot, with no success. (The light never blinks, and the pilot will not stay lit)
Remove the cover, reset that little switch.
Light the pilot light, and it flashes the light after just a few seconds.

I figure that if I can easily replace the limit switch, I can eliminate it as the source of the issue. If the tank is actually overheating, the new limit switch will pop too, right?

If it helps, the exact model of hot water tank is here:

http://www.johnwoodwaterheaters.com/en/parts_catalogue?part=B4320&lookup=part_list

By the way, sorry for the novel. I've just been so frustrated about this tank, I wanted to make sure I got all the details out. :)


texts: Combine multiple smaller wires to make bigger wire

texts:
I need to place a water heater jumper cable. I understand that it requires 4AWG size wire.
Can I make 4AWG size by combining multiple 14AWGs?How many 14 AWG will be equivalent to 4 AWG?
Thanks


texts:
OK I added an image of the box I am talking about. This is when I first pulled the cover off. Its clean now. Remember this is a modular home that was wired back in the 70's. I moved into it and am trying to figure things out. The two black wires you see are my hots coming in from Panel 1. the black wire with the white tape on it I am assuming is a ground because it has no power and connects to a single lug. The green wire on the bottom also has no power but is connected to the black wire with the white tape down in the pipe somehow. If you look at the top there is an insulated neutral bar with a white wire attached to it. The white wire goes down into the pipe no idea where. The only breaker in this box is the main breaker that shuts off all the power to my house.
I am installing an electric oven in my older modular home. I have 3 power boxes. The first is the primary where the originating power comes in and is attached to a pole. This leads to a secondary box that contains another breaker that shuts off power to the house but not the originating box. A 3rd box runs from this and is attached to my house that has all of the power breakers for the house.
My question is I am going to run a 220 from the second box as it is the only one that has room. This box has only a neutral bar that is grounded to a ground rod in the ground. Can I place both the ground and the neutral wire on this bar (dif screw points) or do I have to install another ground bar and ground rod to run my new 220?


texts:
Can I have two thermostats connected to the same zone on my Taco Controller?
I have two Taco Controllers with a total of 9 Hot Water zones.  One of my Hot Water zones is for the Entrance Hall, Living Room and Dining Room.  The thermostat is in the dining room and set to 70 during the day and I’m trying to establish a minimum temperature for the Entrance Hall area.
On cold day’s the entrance hall will be 10-12 degrees colder than the Living and Dining Room. I wanted to know if I could add a second thermostat that is wired directly to same Taco zone.  I would set this second Thermostat to call for heat and stop calling for heat a a temperature below 70 degrees.  For example, the Entrance Hall Thermostat might call for heat at 64 Degrees and stopped calling for heat at 68 degrees.  The Dining Room Thermostat would call for heat when the dining room was below 70 degrees.
I do realize that when either thermostat is calling for heat, all areas in that zone would be heated.


texts: Recommendation for home automation solution

texts:
I have an buried driveway sensor - the kind with the cable that runs back to the house to a control unit - and I've been using an X10 Universal Module wired up to that and plugged in to communicate to chime units in the home.  We've had this system for nearly 20 years and it has generally worked OK but the X10 modules have been failing and I feel like I'd like to upgrade things.

The existing driveway sensor still works great so I don't see any reason to change that out at this point.  But I'd like to use a newer wireless technology (or I'm also not opposed to something better than X10 for a powerline solution) to accomplish (at least) the same job as my existing setup did.

The driveway sensor system is a Mier Driveway Alert system.  It has Input -- 120 VAC, 50-60Hz, 3.6 WattsOutput -- 24 VDC at 100 Milliamps or: Dry Contact Relay - 24V/1AMP Maximum.

I see a lot of Z-Wave and Zigbee and Thread and other modules out there but have not seen a similar module to the X10 Universal module - something to take the wired signal from the driveway unit convert it into the appropriate wireless setup.  It is very possible I've just overlooked this.

Do you have suggestions for a solution?  I'm mainly interested in a straightforward solution that works.

My sensor unit is about 30' from the house and, ideally, I'd like to be able to put a few chimes around the home and maybe have an option to send an alert to my phone.

Thoughts?


texts: Bathroom vent through existing roof vent

texts:
I have a roof with two gable vents as well as slanted vents that look a lot like these one:

I do not want to install an extra vent specifically for bathroom so I was wondering if I could use one of the existing top ones. It looks like from underneath there is a circular hole that I can push a duct in. The roof vents don't leak so they are solid even with really crazy rain, hale snow etc.

Can I install on existing vent? If yes, do I have seal it after pushing the vent in so that no humidity will return back down to the attic? What's the best way to go about doing this?


texts: HVAC tripping breaker - things to check before replacing?

texts:
HVAC system (we're in Houston, it's still hot here) stopped working Tuesday.  A/C guy came out, determined it was tripping breaker.  Would trip immediately after resetting, but after a couple of resets would stay on for a few hours.  Suggested we replace breaker.

I replaced the breaker.  Same problem.  A/C guy some back, swears that everything is good on the A/C side.  Capacitors look good.  Now it trips every time and won't stay on at all.

Electrician comes out.  Examines breaker and panel, says it looks OK.  Replaces line from panel to A/C just in case.  Still trips every time.  Electrician swears it must be a problem on the A/C side.

A/C guy refuses to come out a third time.

I disconnect the fan in the A/C - breaker still trips.  Then I disconnected the leads to the compressor - now the fan will come on.  So it seems like the compressor, or something in that chain, is causing the issue.

We have a different A/C guy coming tomorrow to look at it.  I have a feeling they are going to say we need to replace it.  I'm not sure how old the unit is - probably 10+ years, which seems too soon to replace to me.  But that might be the best solution.

However, I want to be sure that we aren't doing this prematurely.  What else can I check, or ask the A/C guy to check, that might be a cheaper/easier fix than replacing the entire system?

FWIW, we have an upstairs and downstairs unit.  The busted one is downstairs.  The slightly smaller upstairs unit is OK.


texts: Trying to wire a 240v line-voltage thermostat

texts: I am trying to replace my old 240v line-voltage thermostat with a modern version. The problem is that after wiring the new version in like the old it doesn't work. I have (2) 12-2 wires coming out of the box and they are both hot. Any advice?


texts: Where should I place a stove master switch on an island?

texts:
We're having our kitchen redone and I would like to integrate our free-standing stove into the island unit.

Where would be decent place to put the stove master switch within this island as there are no walls available directly nearby?


texts: Is an electric heat gun powerful enough to help aid in metalwork?

texts: I've seen videos where metalworkers will heat up some sheet metal with a blow torch to make it more malleable. Could this be done with an electric heat gun (just working with ~1 to 2mm thick steel and aluminium)?


texts:
I've got a respirator like this one:

I assume with the particulate filters (for dust) you just change them when they get hard to breathe through, but what about the organic vapor or chemical cartridges? How do you know when they need to be replaced?


texts: How can I get a 60 Hz refrigerator to work on a 50 Hz system?

texts: I bought a refrigerator with 4 doors (model #: LMX31985st) in the USA, for use in Europe. I also bought the slow down converter. I'm afraid that the frequency in the USA is 60 hz, and in Europe it is 50 hz. Because of this, the appliance doesn't work. Does the slow down converter regulate the frequency, or could there be something wrong with it?


texts: I have already checked the spark plug, just replaced the old one, opened the fuel line to make sure the gas flow was good, made sure the filter was clean, checked the oil level and it still wouldn't start, what could be the next issue


texts: How to remove a stuck bayonet-mounted light bulb?

texts:
The bulb looks like this.

It's been mildly broken from my earlier effort to remove the light. I've tried holding at the base, pushing it in a bit, twisting left/right and then trying to take it out, but this hasn't worked. I've had this fitting for many years but have never had a problem removing the bulb before using this procedure. I can still twist left/right but for some unknown reason the bulb will not come out when pulled.

The light fitting itself looks like this


texts:
I installed a new GFCI outlet and it seems to work; the light is generally a solid green. however it does blink red once every 30 to 90 seconds.
I found plenty of documentation around a solid red light; however what does it mean when it blinks red just once occasionally? Is it just a self test (probably not) or an actual safety hazard to be addressed?
The GFCI units I use are made my Genmax


texts:
I have a ceiling rose with a twin live / neutral wire and no earth.

This is unexpected as the house was built in 1986 and the light switch does have an earth.

Can I still use this with light fittings that are not double insulated?

Read more at diynot.com:

  I am going to follow [a suggestion made in the above link] to replace the 2 core flex with 3 core flex. If I am only connecting it between the rose above the ceiling and the rose below, can I use standard 3 amp / 720w flex or do I need higher-rated non-flexible wiring? It is only connecting to a decorative pendant lamp.


texts: Will this pulley arrangement keep this kayak level when hoisting?

texts: I am building a kayak hoisting system for my garage, and was originally going to use a standard two-rope system to keep the kayak level when hoisting, but I came across this single rope schematic, and was curious if it would actually lift the kayak level or not. My spidey sense says "no", but wanted to confirm:


texts:
After totally re-shape my stairwell i got some issue to re-cable my double switch.

I tried a lot of combinaisons, read some docs but nothing works...

Here is the settings:

That switch is a double one, it's located on the first floor landing.

The first switch command a lamp located between the ground floor and the first floor. Only 2 switch can light the lamp up, this switch and one located in the dinning room.

The second part of the switch command a lamp located btw the 1st and the 2nd floor, this lamp can be light up with 3 switch, the one i can't setup and two others on the 2nd floor.

Where i want to setup the switch

  i got 2 wire which comes from the downstairs: one brown and one
  orange.

  I got 3 wire come from upstairs: one red and 2 orange

  I also got a brown wire which wich come throught the wall, from a lamp
  in the bedroom

.

Do you have any tips to make it works ?
It used to works properly but i can't figure out what was the correct setup

J'ai deux fils qui viennent du bas : un orange et un marron
J'ai trois fils qui viennent du haut: un rouge, deux oranges
et bizarrement, j'ai un fil marron qui fait juste la jointure entre cet intérrupteur et celui de la chambre - interrupteur simple juste de l'autre coté du mur.


texts: I live in a concrete block home in SE Florida. The air in the house stinks and I am well aware of indoor pollution. The house is 2 years old and we have lived in it one year. The first year the house was vacant BUT the AC (2.5 T) was kept on. We AC 1800 sq ft with insulated ductwork in the attic. I talked to 2 contractors. They want to stick an outdoor duct into the supply and leave it open. Yea right. I want an electronic damper that I can open say 12 to 4 AM (lower temp and humidity) I want them to exhaust the air from the return located at the other end of the house. They look at me as though I have 3 heads. They want to bring in air all the time and not exhaust any. I say not possible with tight CCB home and few windows. How do I size and buy the necessary stuff so I can hire some one to do the labor. Am 71 and tired of cleaning up other peoples messes!


texts: What type of tile should I install in a bath/shower surround?

texts:
I am about to remodel our bathroom. Currently the tub/shower is all tiled but the backing is not secure/stable so there is cracking in the grout and I know water is getting behind. I prefer the look of tile over the plastic surrounds and we have a window in the shower that is current tiled over but I would like to expose it again.

I have not done tiling before so I am just starting my research and I am looking for some advice regarding the type of tile to use. Budget is flexible but I am not real interested in the "glamour bath look" of marble and granite as I don't think it will match the rest of the house.

What are the pros/cons of ceramic and porcelain tile? How about other alternatives (slate, etc.)? Do I need to use anything special on the flat horizontal surfaces at the window sill (that is in the shower) or any shelves I build into the shower wall?


texts: Can I put 2 air conditioners in one line with 2 breakers?

texts:
I might have the need to get an another air conditioner. Problem is I no longer have any additional space for another breaker in my main panel. I would like to know if it's safe to add another breaker on the same line for the other air conditioner? Something like the diagram below.

UPDATE:

My apologies for the lack of information. Currently my setup is similar to the diagram below but remove the first air conditioner.

The first 30 amp in the diagram is the 30 amp breaker in the main panel. Then there's another 30 amp breaker at the end before it goes to the air conditioning unit. This is how the electrician/installer did it. Although I think the 2nd breaker is not necessary.

We use 220V here and 30amps for outlets. I believe the wires are gauge 10. The current air conditioner is a 1HP non-inverter. Planning on adding a 2.5HP air conditioner.

UPDATE: 06/04/2020

Uploading image of the first A/C unit.

I don't have any info on the 2nd A/C yet as I don't have it yet. Haven't decided what to get yet but initially I wanted to get something with 2.5HP  as I need to cool a 30 sqm room.


texts: The trim in my house won't hold paint. Is there a solution to this?

texts:
I have an old house with a lot of trim. Baseboards, wainscoting, crown molding, built-in cupboards. The walls are probably 50% trim. I also have a lot of old, solid wood doors.
From what I can tell, all of this was originally clear-coated with a varnish or something similar. Then at some point, a previous owner painted over it all, but didn't sand or strip the varnish, they just painted over it, several times.
I had the house repainted when I moved in, but quickly found that the paint would come off the trim really easily, which is when I noticed the varnish. It's been less than a year and there are already a lot of bare areas on the trim and doors.
Stripping down all of the trim and doors, or replacing it all, seems like a monumental task in this house. So I'm wondering if there's anything I can do at this point, maybe something I can coat the painted wood with, that would help a new coat of paint bond to it better?


texts: Concrete screws not going in all the way

texts:
I'm attempting to use tapcon 1/4in by 2.75in concrete screws to affix something to a wall of poured concrete, but it's only going about 3/5 of the way in before refusing to go any further. I used the recommended tapcon drill bit size so I don't think that's the issue, and I've also air blasted all the dust out. What else could it be? Do I just need a more powerful drill? A smaller size screw?

https://imgur.com/a/PC2wkQS


texts: Is my toilet flange too high off the ground?

texts: Recently had my floors redone in a bathroom and the toilet flange seems to be a little high off the new tile floor. What are my options?


texts: Why has my garbage disposal started tripping the breaker every time?

texts:
I have never had a problem with my garbage disposal or that circuit before, however I am now having issues with it. Every time I turn it on, it immediately trips the breaker.

I'm not even sure how to begin troubleshooting this to try to fix it, first time homeowner here. Any help would be great.

EDIT:

The disposal comes on for a fraction of a second before the breaker is tripped.

I have tried the advice below, I cannot see anything in the disposal and it spins freely when driven by the hex socket in the bottom of the disposal.

The disposal was installed by myself 2 years ago, so I would hope it hasn't worn out yet...

Further troubleshooting this has led me to the following resolution: The garbage disposal is working, however that particular outlet is malfunctioning. I didn't think that could be the case, I thought if an outlet went bad, both outlets in that box would go bad. I guess this is not the case.


texts: looking to use a motion detector to turn lights OFF

texts:
I am looking to use a motion detector to turn off lights with motion.  Installing UV lights in a room for disinfection purposes and want those light to shut off when someone enters the room and the regular light turn on.  I tried using a photo cell, but they take too long to turn the UV lights off.
This is a laundry room where the lights come on when someone enters the room. UV lights were added with a photocell to the room on a separate circuit. When the regular lights go off (no one in the room) the UV lights come on. When someone enters the room the regular lights come on and the UV lights do turn off, but after a few minutes, I need the UV lights to turn off as quickly as the other lights come on.


texts: Is it good that windows are shut when heating is on

texts:
Many apartments require all windows to be closed during winter when the heating is on. But even when the apartments have central heating, as far as I know about my current apartment, it just circulate the air inside the apartments, and doesn't bring in fresh air.

It is dangerous to tenants' lives that the CO2 and other kinds of gas become accumulated inside. So are the above policies of apartment managers reasonable?

As tenants, what can we do to guarantee we have necessary fresh air to breath?

An example of such policies is following:

  During the heating season when the outside temperature is below 50-degrees, all windows must be kept closed to prevent waste.  During the winter when the outside temperature is below freezing, leaving a window open, even one inch, can freeze the heat lines beneath the window and cause a flood.  Management will watch for open windows and repeat offenses may result in a charge to the Tenant.


texts: How do I install Bidet on Toilet that does not have tank

texts:
I live in an apartment building that was built in the late 60's.

I wish to install Bidet .

However, all instructions show how to install Bidet on toilet with tank.

Toilets in our building (well, in my apartment at least) don't have tank, but pipes from toilet go to wall.

How-to video in this Amazon product shows toilet with tank

Can you guide me.


texts: Adapter: male pvc pipe to female metal outdoor faucet

texts:
I have an outdoor faucet that recently had a metal pipe (age caused it to crack) replaced with a pvc pipe. The faucet that is attached is metal, so it didn't leak before; it leaks now because it is a metal to pvc connection. The pvc pipe has a male threaded end and the faucet is female threaded. I need an adapter that is female on the pvc side and male on the metal side, but I have not been able to find one. All I can find is an adapter that has the pvc side that slides inside. I haven't been able to find it anywhere. Does what I need actually exist? Or do I need to fit two adapters together to get the right connection....
Thanks in advance


texts:
how to install a wiring where I can have two switches the two switches will turn on a bulb

I have to turn on the light if any of the switch is on and I have to turn off the light if any of the switch is turned off

can you suggest me a way to install such a mechanism thanks in advance


texts: Heat pump (AC Heater) start cooling once programmed temp is reached?

texts:
My AMANA (and another McQuay unit) in wall AC/heat pump unit works fine on cold days. However, I noticed when the room temperature is higher than the programmed temperature the heater starts letting in cold air. Ideally I would like it to just switch off until the room temperature drops below the programmed number. Is there anything I can do to achieve this desired behavior?

My unit looks is closed to this model but not exactly the same one


texts:
My house has an existing header, which I believe is somewhat undersized.  For context, it's two-ply 2x10s, 12ft long (but I don't want to get into the sizing calculation here).

I would like to reinforce the header by putting two braces at each end.  These would be pieces of 4x4, about 3ft long, which would be attached at a 45 degree angle at each end of the header, going between the jack studs and the header (attaching to each roughly 2ft from the upper corner).

Questions:

What is the name of a brace like this ?  (I can't seem to google something comparable).
What becomes the effective span of the reinforced header ?   It's gotta be better than the original 12ft, but I doubt it's as good as the 8ft between the two braces.
What's the best way to attach the braces to the jacks and header ?  I'm imagining large lag bolts (perhaps 5/8" x 8"); install them horizontally and vertically, or straight into the bottom face of each brace (so 45 degree angle to the jacks and header) ?   Some other kind of fasteners ?


texts: How to convert 1 1/2 inch drain pipe to 2 inches coming from my basement floor?

texts: I need to have washer and laundry sink installed in my basement. Washer drain needs to be 2". I have only 1 1/2" pipe. Do I need to replace that cleanup box? Lokks like all this is glued together. I'm wondering if there is a way to keep existing cleanup box. I do want to do everything by code. See the image.


texts: Problem with a circuit that has only 2 outlets, one is fed from breaker and that one feeds a 2nd outlet, 2nd is not working anymore

texts:
Charleston Sc- Inland, not on any beach or anything like that. I have 2 outlets, front porch and back porch. Both porches are covered but outside, nevertheless. They dont get wet when it rains, just the outside moisture from it. Both outlets are on the same circuit, there's no other outlets in this circuit. Just these 2, they're both 15amp.

One at front porch is fed from breaker, it then feeds 2nd one on back porch. The fed back porch quit working, been about a year now. Today I took 2nd fed receptacle off, tested wires and got 119 or so at black/ground. Got 0 at white/ground. There was like 1 or 2 at black/white wires. The neutral and the hot are showing 1 or 2 at the most, sometimes 0, it just sits there and fluctuates around those 3 numbers.

The main front porch outlet that feeds this non working one has 6 wires instead of 3. Two black, 2 neutral whites and 2 grounds. The 2 grounds are twisted several times together, nice and tight. The white and black from the breaker show 119 or 120 or so. The white/ground show 0. The black/ground show 119-120. I replaced the receptacle from an older push type to a newer one.

The newer one all wired up correctly show the 119 to 120 from both white/blacks, both black/grounds and show 0 from both white/blacks. There's still same issue at 2nd outlet.

No power still. Still same black/white showing 1 or 2a. Black/ground showing 119 or so. White/ground showing 0.

Is the breaker bad? Can't be, right? The breaker has red button on it, in the box, none of the other breakers have that red reset button on theirs. The 2 receptacles and not gfci's, just regular receps. 1987 house.

I've done a good bit of troubleshooting and checking things, still not sure why no power at back porch's outlet. Anything I should check for next? I def got tools, time and patience for any help I can get! Thanks.


texts: Preventing mold with minor carpet water damage

texts:
We had an issue with the hot water heater in our basement that resulted in some minor flooding. Fortunately most of the water went straight out the nearby garage thats across the hallway, but some soaked into carpet in rooms on either side of where the water heater was. No furniture was touched and the baseboards don't look particularly damp either. The water level was not ever higher than an inch since I got to the shut off valve pretty quickly.

At this point I've taken up the carpet and removed all of the wet padding and placed it outside. This was less than a 6'x 14' rectangle of padding. I have a single consumer grade dehumidifier running, and our AC fan on. The RH has never read above 56%. I have the carpet drying, backing up. I have not removed it completely as it is wall to wall only a small portion go wet, less than the 6' x 14' square of pad I removed.

Is this enough to prevent mold given the relatively minor damage or should I be taking additional steps.


texts: Trying to hang a porch swing but the overhead structure isnt conducive. Joists are all 2x6 that run perpendicular to the direction I need to hang the swing. I’m thinking of putting a couple 4x4s in between the joists and drilling into the 4x4s from below.  But Im concerned about ability of the 2x6s to bear the weight. Any thoughts on using face mounting joist hangers to hang a 4x4 (and in-turn the swing)?  And the best way to do it.  House is 98 yrs old so I dont want to screw anything up. Attached picture shows the overheas structure of the porch.  The red circles are the two points where I need to drill in from below.  Thanks for any assistance.


texts: Is there a recommended distance between fasteners on sole plates?

texts:
We've just started installing pressure treated 2x4s as sole plates in our 5 year old basement. We drove 3 nails into each 8' plate, one at each end (around 3 or 4 inches in) and one somewhere at the center.

For smaller lengths, we may use two, or in the case or plates next to doors that in turn abut walls, there probably won't be room for more than one.

I can't find a reference that specifies how many such fasteners are needed per unbroken length, or a recommended / required distance between such fasteners.

Are we doing right with this many fasteners to a plate?

If it helps, we're in East-Central Minnesota. And I'm using 22-caliber powder-actuated 2.5" nails, if that makes a difference to the recommendation.


texts: Do I need outlets in a built-in bookshelf?

texts:
I know that there is normally an outlet every 6 feet rule for electrical code.

However, I am doing a renovation in which an entire wall is a giant bookshelf and cabinet built in which is 17 feet wide. Do I need to somehow get outlets into the cabinetry?


texts: Help Identifying Frost Free Faucet Manufacturer

texts:
Can anyone help me in identifying who the manufacturer of this frost free faucet is?

I am needing to repair the faucet but have read that every one is just a little different, making a simple repair kit from the hardware store very hit-or-miss.


texts:
I have a Bosch PSS230 orbital sander (1990's vintage I think) which has served me very well until yesterday when it made a nasty noise and some crud dropped out of the bottom. Having had a look at it it looks like the 'crud' was the remnants of some sort of cement/rubber flexible force transfer system between the spindle and the footplate (excuse me if these terms are wrong).

Just wondering if anyone here has had a similar problem, and whether there is a suitable material (silicone, acrylic...) with which I can rebuild it?

Thanks, Dan


texts: What is the liquid in a Radon U-tube Manometer?

texts: What is the liquid in a radon U-tube Manometer?  I'm assuming that it's not water because of evaporation.  Mine is clear in color, but I've been reading that it's normally blue or red.  Is it a particular type of oil?  Can it be refilled/replaced?  Some bubbles have appeared recently in my gauge that were not there last summer.  Can they be purged out?  It doesn't seem to be happening naturally with the vacuum produced by the fan and it makes reading the gauge very difficult.


texts: My house's perimeter drain system is full of water, why might that be and how do I fix it?

texts:
It's been raining light to medium for the past 12 hours and this morning while I was walking around outside the house, I noticed that this drain tube, which I believe runs around the perimeter of the house and into my sump pump, is full of water.

I walked around the house to the only other spot where there's one of these green caps, and that tube does not seem to be full of water. When I went to the basement and checked the sump, there is a steady trickle of water from the incoming corrugated drain tube.

Presumably, this means I have a clog somewhere? Or could it be something else?

Is this something I might be able to DIY, or since water around the foundation is a big deal, should I call a professional- who would that even be, a plumber? Landscaper?

Thanks!


texts: Which end of an Allen Wrench should I be using?

texts:
When using Allen Wrenches (Hex Keys), I've always held onto the long end because I figured it gave me better leverage and torque.  Sometimes, in hard to reach places, I would hold the short end.

Then I saw these ball end hex keys.  They claim that:

  The advantage is that their ball end make it easier to slide the
  wrench into the receiving slot.

In my opinion, they've put the ball end on the wrong side.

Have I been using these incorrectly my whole life?


texts:
I'd like to put a couple of wall lights outside my garage but I don't want to wire this into the mains electricity as I want to connect them to a plug so I can control it with IFTTT.

Can I simply buy twin core and earth wire, fit a plug at one end and connect to the light fixture?

The fixture I'm looking at is this and will be running LED lamps: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modern-Black-Double-Outdoor-Stainless/dp/B00VYSL5LK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8


texts: Momentary 'brown-out' when a motor kicks on

texts: As a home owner, I have an ongoing issue which is that everytime any motor kicks on (refrigerator, AC condenser, sabre saw, etc.) the lights dim for a second or two.  The main service is at the detached garage and is properly bonded and attached to a grounding rod.  This panel feeds the sub panel which is located in the house about 50' away.  This sub panel is also bonded and attached to both a grounding rod and cold water pipe.  I questioned the electrician about this and he said that it was required by code since they are 2 different buildings.  BTW, the work was inspected.  Is this accurate?  Is this why I'm experiencing the temporary voltage dips, or is there another possibility?  Much thanks.


texts:
Good evening,
I decided to start a kitchen reno in our new house and wanted to take out this wall. I assumed it was not load bearing as it runs parallel to the joists, but after taking drywall off I was surprised to see 3 back to back 2x4 beside the opening and 2 2x4 at the ceiling.

I would still assume this is not load bearing and instead a builder going over board(I've never seen this in previous renos) but thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has more experience.

Here is a picture:

I also assume that the wall in connects to is load bearing. I am hoping to put a beam and 2 posts across and making it a half wall, does anyone know the span I'm allowed between posts for something like this? Or what size beam? There is currently no beam in the wall, it is just a normal 2x4 wall from what i can see. The joists are 2x8 and 16 inches center to center. They span around 30 feet across the house. Maybe they were engineered and it isn't a load bearing wall?

Here is a picture of the roof framing, if it helps:

There is another one of those little walls on the other side of attic as Well, and the wall below is basically right in between the two.

Thanks!


texts: How should I wire island pendant fixtures with this setup

texts:
I am planning to install 2 kitchen island dimmable pendant lights. I am at a new construction, there were no light fixtures installed and so it only came prewired. Both the fixtures are controlled by two switches.
Switch 1:

Switch 1:

Switch 2:

Switch 2:

Ceiling fixture box 1 comes with 1 black, 1 white and 1 ground.
However ceiling fixture box 2 comes with 2 black, 2 white and 2 ground.
Ceiling fixture box 2:

I purchased a lutron maestor dimmer(MACL-153MR-WH) and plan to install it at one switch and keep the other switch for turning on/off, how will I be able to wire with this setup?


texts: Water leaching up through basement floor

texts: We just bought an older home that had new perimeter drainage system installed and a new sump pump installed that drains outside. The old sump was closed off and now there is signs of water leaching up mainly along the line from the old sump to the floor drain. There is crumbling cement, white powdery substance staining the floor and today actually in a few spots there is a white fuzzy substance appearing. Other cracks in the floor are now show signs of the leaching also. I am thinking the old sump is filling up and has no where to drain which is causing the problem.


texts: Which types of decking are easiest to maintain?

texts:
I live in Portland, OR. Rainy city.

I will be expanding the deck at my house and in the process, I'm thinking I might upgrade to something nicer than pressure treated doug fir.

I have a cousin that put in a Mahogany deck last year and it's really nice. The color and color variation really appeal to me. At the same time, my dentist told me about how he used IPE at his house and while it sounds like a pain to install, maintenance sounds to be a breeze, ie non-existent.

If I want a long lasting, deck, that requires minimal sealing and such while still looking nice, what do you recommend?


texts:
I am trying to replace my capactitor in my ceiling fan, because the blades do not  spin but I do hear a humming sound. When I opened it  up. I have 2 capacitors

The first capacitor is smaller and has 3 wires and is rated 4uf 250V
Red
White
White

The second capacitor has 3 wires and is rated 5uf 470 1/2W and 6uf 470 1/2W
Gray
Purple
Brown

My question is I CANNOT find ANY matching capacitors online! Does anyone know what other kind of capacitor I can use?

EDIT: To clarify lets say I buy these two capacitors, how exactly would I wire this? I couldn't find matching capacitors online


texts: What type of burner ring and gas line do I need for NG fire pit?

texts:
I'm planning an instal for a natural gas fire pit in my back yard, and trying to determine what I should be looking at for parts and sizing, as well as what i can expect as the final result.  Just so you know, the actual installation will be performed by a professional.  I don't want to blow myself up.

my house currently has a 250 CF meter and about 65' of 1.25" pipe  with 195,000 BTU worth of appliances at the end (stove, furnace, water heater).

I'm planning to use 3/4" for the line to the fire pit

There are three possible routes for the gas line to the fire pit:

about 25 feet off the end of the 1.25" pipe (has to exit the house, short trench)
about 75 feet off a tee on the meter (more difficult to trench, fully outside)
about 105 feet off a the meter (easier to trench, also outside)

Fire pit burner rings in the size I want (24-30 inches) are rated for "max BTU" from about 290,000 to 400,000.  Obviously I'm not going to be able to supply that with a 3/4" pipe of basically any length.

So my questions are:

What could I supply with those options, and would it be enough for a decent display?

with a 250 CF meter, am I at risk of running out of supply and hurting or not being able to use the other appliances on the meter?

How would I actually calculate the BTU of the fire ring for the building permit if the supply is lower than rated max?


texts: Circuit breaker trips every couple of weeks

texts:
I have a 15A circuit breaker in my electrical box tied to the media room.  Every couple of weeks, it trips.

I bought an amperage/wattage load tester.   Readings show 4 - 4.5A total in my media room...way under 15A.  I suspect a malfunctioning device.  To complicate matters, the tester can only read certain devices. I don't know if I have accurate readings.

The tester does not store max load over time.  It only gives instantaneous readouts.  I can't stare at the tester for weeks hoping for a problem to occur.

Losing power to my projector is bad.  AFAIK there are no ceiling mount UPS devices either.  Is there a tool to help me narrow the problem down to a specific device?


texts: Does this vent cap limit passive air flow?

texts:
I am looking at various vent covers for my house.  I have a 3" Plumbing vent stack and a 4" Radon vent stack.  The radon system is passive, which means I do rely on a chimney effect along with the fact that a breeze creates a draft tunnel down to the basement.  I want to prevent the possibility of a squirrel or bird from a.) entering the vent pipes and b.) dying in the vent pipes after a quick trip to the bottom.

Doing a lot of reading it turns out this is a very technical topic!  So far I see things priced from $5 to $40!  Right now I am really leaning towards these simple little things because it prevents the issue at bay and appears that the slits would allow the continuation of passive venting.

PVC Vent Guard

I don't know enough to decide if these are the proper vent covers or not for my situation.  I think the 3" stack would be okay, but I am concerned about the 4" radon pipe.


texts: Are the old A-head terminals for connecting to knob and tube wiring still compliant?

texts:
I'm in the process of decommissioning the last active (hopefully) knob and tube circuit in my house (I'm in the U.S.).  The problem is that about 90% of the lighting in the house is on this circuit, and I won't have access to re-wire two rooms until I remodel them in the spring and there isn't any good way to get NM cable from those two rooms to the service box until the walls come down in a couple months.

Coincidentally, a friend of mine found a bunch of new old stock A-head connectors in a bag in his attic exactly like this one in my basement:

My understanding is that these are still allowable under NEC 300.16 and would give me an easy way to keep the 2 problem rooms live until I can finish replacing the circuit.  Am I correct that this is still legit?  If so, are there any issues with using NOS hardware for the splice?  I don't really want to disturb the old wiring that I'm not immediately replacing any more than I have to, so this seems like a better solution than a junction box.


texts: Direct Burial Wire for 200 Amp Sub Panel from 200 Amp Main

texts:
I'm trying to get the right info to price out my project.
I plan to install a 200 amp sub-panel in a shed with a 125 to 150 amp feeder breaker. The shed is about 180 feet away from the main panel. The main panel also has no other loads, and is on its own pole.
I was told to get triplex 4.0 direct burial wire, but I'm not sure that sounds right.
What size and type wire would be appropriate for such a project? Am I correct in assuming this sub panel will also need two grounding rods as well?
Thanks in advanced.


texts: Helping my son build a house and he went with Lithonia WF4 LED lighting (pic attached).   I know all connections need to be "permanently accessible" but mounting these drivers and connection in the joists with only a 4" opening for the removable downlight as "access" doesn't seem reasonable access. Is there a better approach?


texts: What component do I need to add my own "Private" electric meter

texts:
I am adding a workshop, and upgrading my service from 200A to 400A.  The Shop will get a 200A panel and the existing House panel will be backfed from the main.  I want to bring the new House feeder into the existing meter base and install my own private GE electric meter.  Can I use any serviceable 200A single phase 240V meter such as I might find refurbished on EBAY?  like the dial ones, versus the digital ones?  Does NEC have any rules on installing my own meter?

I was looking at something like this:


texts: Can I install a modern furnace without ductwork?

texts:
I removed an old coal furnace from my basement.  The furnace did not have any duct work to speak of.  There was an exhaust pipe which fed into the chimney and a duct that went into the next room, but for the most part all the heat went up through a 30" x 30" hole in the ceiling above it.  The hole is covered by a floor grate without any filter or louvers.

My house is 1100 sqft and reasonably well insulated.  Can I install a new gas furnace to use this same hole?  Is there a particular type of furnace that would work best for this application?  Do I need to worry about a cold air return?  I'm assuming I would need to add some kind of filter.  I would greatly appreciate any general advice on how to approach this project.  Thanks in advance.


texts: Installing Pendant light which came with 3 clear wires and 1 copper/bare wire

texts:
Pendant light: 3 Clear Wire and 1 copper/ground wire

Ceiling: 1 Black, 1 white and 1 copper/ground wire

I do notice that in one of the three clear wires in the pendant, there is some number written, which could be neutral wire.

For another clear wire in the pendant I also notice 1 strand of wire is made of fabric. Can someone help me to fix it without using ohm meter?


texts:
Location is Northern New Jersey.
I'm looking to build a low garden wall; approx. 18 inches high. Current plan is cinder block faced with thin brick and capped with real brick.
It isn't a true retaining wall as the grade is flat and behind it will be a garden bed (inspiration below).
Does something like this require a true footing below frost?
Or: Can it be built on grade similar to a paver driveway/patio.


texts: How to clean hair and junk off an auger?

texts:
Afterusing an auger/snake to clean out the pipes from a shower, the tip is usually disgusting, with a large clot of hair inextricably entangled into the tip. Is there a trick to clean this thing? I used to "unwrap" the hair from the spiral tip (the boring gimlet), but frankly that takes like 10 minutes and is really gross. I have considered burning it after it dries, but...gross.

Or maybe I should use a different type of auger? All the ones I've bought at Home Depot type stores have the boring gimlet. It's the following, but with a huge tangle of stinkhair wrapped all up in there:


texts: How can I paint walls properly without sanding due to possiblity of lead based paint?

texts: My husband and I are buying our first home. During the inspection, our inspector said there could be lead-based paint (due to the age of the house) under the several layers of existing paint, and although nothing is chipped or flaking, NOT to sand the walls (the sellers don't know if lead paint exists under the current paint, and I'd rather not sand the walls and take chances). To save money, we want to repaint the interior ourselves and I'm not quite sure how to do it properly without sanding the walls first. The walls are in good condition, with no holes or cracks, and are a cream color, and we intend to paint over it with another light color, but don't want it to look like we cut corners. What's the best way to paint over the existing paint and still have good results without sanding?


texts: Is underlayment necessary for laminate over dricore?

texts:
We have new dricore subflooring in a basement that is partially above and partially below grade.  There have been minor water seepages in the past thru the slab, which is why we put in the dricore.

We are nearly to the "install flooring" stage and are questioning the need for underlayment in our situation.  Underlayment is usually used, as I understand it, for:

Noise reduction
Moisture/vapor protection
Insulation? (maybe)

In our case the dricore is dricore+ which has an R-3 rating and acts as a vapor and moisture barrier.  Since it's in the basement, noise reduction is less of a concern.

So I'm thinking minimal underlayment - at most.  But is it necessary?  Or can we apply direct to the subfloor without concern?

The specific product is Wire Brushed Oak Havana 3/8 in. T x 5 in. W x Varying Length Click Lock Hardwood Flooring


texts: Power drill requirements for steel-reinforced concrete

texts:
We have the need for a new power drill (old 25+ year Bosch finally died) and I'm trying to determine the requirements for our situation. We are in a new build (European concrete) property with the need to drill countless holes for hanging lamps (under 1/2" for sure) etc...

The ceilings are very very tough to drill in (yes that's how the Bosch died) and we have been told by the building constructor that they are 200mm steel-reinforced concrete and we should hire a HILTI! I understand that it is a mesh type system. Using a metal detector seems to confirm this but I'll ask again tomorrow. Also for clarity, i'm trying to drill holes immediately next to the location where the light cable comes in.

As we need a power drill anyway, I would like to get one that covers the ceiling requirement if possible. From what I have been reading, when drilling through such material, it is important to have a drill that can run at a low speed and high torque settings (more important to invest in drill bits).

Right now the requirements I think I need are:

Corded (would like a cordless but would a 18V. get the job done?)
Speed selection (down to 400 rpm)
Torque - as many settings as possible
SDS (for masonry)
Combi style

Also a stupid question...I see in power drill reviews sentences such as "The PSB1800 can drill 30 mm into wood and 10 mm into steel and masonry." Why is this? Surely the depth it can drill in depends on the drill bit?

  this was kindly answered as likely referring to the diameter.

I would appreciate feedback on my requirements. I'm I missing anything? Will a hobby/DIY type of drill be up to the task?

Thanks


texts: Water leaking in ceiling when central heating turned on

texts: Water is dripping from the ceiling when the central heating is on.  If the heating remains on the drip becomes a gush (the ceiling has fallen in under the weight of water).  When the bathroom floorboards above have been taken up all water plumbing was dry even when the heating was turned on again.  Floorboards in adjacent room was also taken up - all pipework was dry.  Can't turn on central heating (combi boiler) as water continues to leak into the kitchen ceiling.  Anyone experienced this and found the cause?


texts: What is the proper way to bring power to this pump?

texts:
I purchased this pump to transfer water from a holding tank in a self remodeled travel trailer up to the sink. The pump is an "on demand" style where it will pump pressure in the water line up against a closed faucet. A pressure switch on the pump cuts off the power when the pressure limit is reached. When the faucet is opened the pressure drops and the pump starts up to deliver water flow to the sink.

The motor on the pump operates on 120VAC. As you can see the wires to the pump are discrete wires including the hot wire path through the pressure switch.

My question is about the proper way to wire up and deliver AC power to this type of unit?


texts: How do we waterproof a cement slab floor that has moisture coming up?

texts: Our gymnasium was built over 35 yrs ago.  They did not put any moisture barrier under the concrete slab floor.  Moisture constantly comes through and times with a lot of rain, water even comes from where the walls meet the floor.  We run a humidifier to keep the moisture and mold down.  We have a very small budget.  The building is a pole barn type.  The gutters are good.  The floor is bare concrete.  When it was first built we literally had dirt and mud come in where the wall meets the floor.  They put more cement blocks (higher) on the outside of the foundation.  This stopped dirt from coming in but not moisture.  What can we do on low finances.


texts: How do I drill a mortise and tenon joint so I can reinforce it with a dowel?

texts: I want to make a mortise and tenon joint that will be held together with a dowel instead of glue. How can I drill the hole in the mortised stock and the tenon so that they line up accurately and produce a tight joint?


texts: Can I mount a 60" TV and mount weighing a combined 95 pounds to a drywall or plaster?

texts: I cannot find studs on my firewall but, when I drilled a hole on the wall, it seems to me that either the plaster or drywall was thick enough (like 1/2"). Can I Mount a 60" TV and Mount Weighing a Combined 95 pounds to that Drywall or Plaster?


texts:
I’m about to start working on putting a door here but I’m thinking of how I should do it.
Here’s a video - the opening is a bit awkward, I’ve thought that I’m going to have to trim the shelves where the door will swing out a bit... but need some ideas on what might be the best way to do this.
video of doorway potential


texts: Manually turning on a sprinkler valve with bleed screw?

texts:
I am installing a new sprinkler valve system.  Everything was pre-assembled with three valves, all I had to do was connect the incoming water and outgoing water.  As part of the "testing" procedure it says to "turn manual bleed screw counterclockwise until water flows out".  My understanding of this based on previous experience with other valves (although it has been a while and I may be mis-remembering) is that when I loosen the bleed valve it will bypass the solenoid and water will flow out into the outgoing pipes to the yard.  But instead, when I do this water starts flowing out the top of the bleed valve, quickly flooding the top of the valve.  Meanwhile, if any water if flowing through the actual pipes it isn't enough to make any of the typical hissing noises of air flushing out the ends that precedes water coming out, and no water comes out even the shortest line.

When I tighten the bleed screw the leak stops.  There isn't much play between off and leaking, only a fraction of a turn, but I have tried turning it just barely to the point of leaking (just over 1/6th of a turn) and still nothing.

I'm a bit puzzled as to how I can manually turn on the water to test everything out and maybe run the water a bit before I get the electrical part installed to run it automatically.  I'm also questioning whether it is really supposed to leak this much water, as if I turn it only 1/3 of a turn total it is spraying water all over the box getting all the valves completely wet! Are there different types of bleed valves, some of which only leak instead of turning the water on?  This is a brand new unit with three stations and the two connected stations have the same behavior, so it seems really unlikely it is defective.

Update: The third station has no outgoing pipe, but when I tried turning it on via the bleed valve that valve leaks too but no water comes out the open pipe at the end.

Update 2: It's an "Orbit Sprinkler Valve System" aka "Orbit 3/4-in or 1-in Inline Preassembled Sprinkler Manifold"


texts: Is it safe to fill in or insulate the space in my walls around my fireplace flum?

texts: Moved into a new home and I noticed something about my fireplace. I have a large brick enclosure that surrounds my wood burning fireplace and when I was up in the attic I noticed that the space surrounding the fireplace between the walls is wide open to my attic. I could fit down in the space. I was spraying cellulose insulation and was about to fill in the gaps but stopped. Should I seal these cavities in or is there a need for the gaps?


texts: What do I do with a 1 11/16" gap when installing a new pre-hung door?

texts: I am replacing a door with a pre-hung door including the jamb. The old door was 29 11/16" wide. The new pre-hung door is 28".  Is this too big of a gap?  Should I make it plumb on one side and make up the difference on the other side? Other threads suggest making up space on the handle side, but this is more space than than what other people were asking about. The trim is 2 1/2" so the gap would be covered.