texts: How can I build garage shelving out of 2x6s, 4x4s and 1/2" OSB?

texts:
building garage shelving, already ordered lumber:

4x4 8' post

2x6 10' horizontals

1/2 OSB ply, ripped to 2'x8' lengths

Should i notch the 4x4 vertical posts, then fit the 2x6's in the notches? I'm concerned the corner posts will have too much notched out and compromise the vertical strength. The notch would be 1.5" by 5.5" to accommodate the 2x6's.

Sketch attached.

Thanks!

Edit:

Here is a model of the non-notched version. All horizontals are 2x6, verticals are 4x4, shelving is 1/2" OSB. There are 2 "units" that are sitting next to each other, each shelving unit is 10' long. I will put 2 more vertical posts midway down each 10' span.

The whole reason I thought about the notches like shown above was to take the strain off the 2x6 fasteners. Over a 10' span, you can really pile a lot of stuff on these shelves each is 24" deep.

Edit:
updated sketch

Edit:
another top/bottom sketch of 4x4 1/2" notch, with inside-set 2x6's


texts: Pouring concrete on top of old chunks and other larger rock

texts: I need to fill in alot of area next to the driveway and have access to alot of rock and some old concrete. Can I port 4-5 inches on top and let it bleed into the crevaces or am I better off just using crusher???


texts: What is the best way to bring heating and cooling to an attached garage? Our HVAC is being replaced, and our large family needs the garage for living space. Wed be going from 1500 sq feet, to 1900 about... Its HOT here in summer, and COLD in winter. Portable, wall, and window AC and heating units don't cut it. The walls have drywall, but no insulation. I have a roll up door with no insulation, and a slopped roof with no insulation. We have contractors coming out to talk to us about replacing the HVAC and I want to ask what they can do to the garage. If my children have to use it for bedrooms as they get older, I want the AC/Heat to work just as well as the house. Any suggestions?


texts:
I have a toilet which drains out quite slowly and water rises to the brim when the flush is exercised.

I have already used the plunger multiple times to try to see if it makes a difference, but it has not helped much. The water level still takes about 30 minutes to go low after a flush. I am clueless at this point.

Is there anything else I can try? Is there a 'draino' equivalent for toilets?


texts: How do I remove construction glue from brick?

texts:
I just removed glued-on paneling from an interior brick wall. Now, I have the task of removing the glue from said brick. What is the best method of doing so? I know there's no getting around the use of a scraper, obviously, but wanted to get input from you all :)

Click for full size


texts: unfinished basement light recommendation

texts: about 45' long feet by 22' feet wide unfinished basement. stairs come down from the middle of the 45' long side into about the center of the basement.  the 2x6 floor joists overhead are all exposed, along with all the electrical wiring.  So adding anything and running wiring is very easy.  Height above basement floor about 7'.  I want to replace existing lighting but don't want to spend a lot.  The LED lithonia lighting 4' led (flourescent replacement) from depot is $45 each.  I figure I need at least 5 of those but I don't want to spend $250.  Are there cheaper lighting options?


texts:
I have a rock retaining wall that is nothing but problems. Weeds grow in the dirt around the rocks and now we have a varmint (rock chuck, I think) setting up residence. Any suggestions on how to either a) make it so weeds can’t grow around the rocks or b) make it impenetrable so that nothing can sneak in around the rocks. It would be nice if it looked good too...  ;)

One thought I had before the varmint came into the picture was to plant clover or ivy everywhere there is dirt and let it grow.


texts: Which patio door should the lock be installed in?

texts:
We are having some patio doors fitted and they are rebated.

The doors open outwards
The left-hand door opens first

We would like to fit a narrowstile lock with a roller (rather than a catch) and I do not know the answer to the following:

Which door should the lock be set into?
Rebate kits for locks come in left-handed and right-handed form. Given that I have a roller lock, do I care about whether I need a left- or right-hand rebate kit?


texts: Neutral prong is hot, but neutral wire is not. Why?

texts:
I added an outlet in the middle of a circuit, branching from an existing outlet.
I pig-tailed the new outlet two one of the two bundles in the existing outlet and attached the pigtail to the existing outlet's screws.
The second bundle is attached to the second screws. The grounds of all three are attached by pigtail to the single ground screw.
For some reason, the neutral prong reads hot, and the neutral wire does not.
Both downstream outlets seem okay (neutral prongs read neutral, hot prongs read hot).
Should I be concerned? If so, what problems could be causing this?


texts: I have a cantilevered overhang on my second floor which I recently re-insulated.  In order to remove the old insulation, I had to remove the wood soffit and house wrap where the soffit was (the house has vinyl siding). Currently, I put up primed soffit with screws and caulk so that it was closed in, understanding that it could be a temporary solution. I'm assuming I need to replace the house wrap, if so, what is the best way to piece it together (I just cut it at the 90 degree angles)?


texts: Why did my circuit blow after replacing a switch?

texts:
I replaced an older switch yesterday on an existing line of recessed lights. There are five lights on the one switch. On the same breaker; but different switch, there are 7 more recessed lights (all in a basement, in the process of being renovated, and easily accessible; also both lines are missing one bulb, so they are not pulling a full load). On the same breaker there is also an outlet that runs a dehumidifier. This has been the setup for over a year when the project started.

If it is an overload on the breaker it has never been an issue before. Yesterday I switched out an older switch that was very noisy when flipped, for a newer, quieter switch (not new, but pulled from another spot in the house). The major difference is that the newer switch had a ground and and the older switch did not.

When I came home tonight and flipped the switch I heard a noise and the breaker tripped (not the noise of the breaker tripping, an additional electrical noise, like a surge). The dehumidifier was also on when I turned the switch on. I reset the breaker and did it again, tripped again. I had this on for hours yesterday (though I think the dehumidifier went on after the lights were on). When I turn on the line with the 7 lights nothing trips. It only happens on the new switch. Can the ground be messing it up (or rather be pointing to a problem that I didn't know was there)?


texts: What can I use to fill a 5mm gap between a PVC window frame & a double-glazed window pane that it too thin?

texts:
I have old double-glazed windows where the frame doesn't allow easy removal of the window from the outside. I had problems with finding anyone who would do the replacement as it isn't as straight-forward as the newer style of window frame - it is pretty difficult to remove the white plastic pieces that press up against the inside of the window pane to keep it tight in the frame.

I made the mistake or ordering a replacement double-glazed window pane that was 5mm thinner than the original window. The thickness had been measured by my experienced Plumber as 25mm but when I went to the shop to order window, the shop owner said it would either be 24 or 26mm, so I went home and measured the thickness (whilst the window was still in place, on the first floor of my house) and got it drastically wrong.

Anyway, I am looking for something I can place in the gap, either between the white plastic piece and the window pane or between the plastic piece and the frame, so that the window is securely in place. Currently, I am using the double-sided sticky foam pads that came with the new window but with winter here, I need to sort this out permanently. I've read about wood being an option but would prefer something that is waterproof/plastic or rubber but I am not sure of what to get or from where.

I know I could just get the frame remade but at a cost of £75, I'd rather come up with a cheaper but effective workaround.

Some photos of the setup are here to help with seeing exactly what I'm describing...

Can any one help?


texts: Weird behavior on circuit but not tripping the breaker

texts:
Two years ago I had all the knob and tube wiring in my home replaced.  Over the past couple of weeks we've observed some odd behavior on one of the new circuits.  My LED lamp will randomly start strobing and my computer will suddenly lose power (not at the same time but most nights at least one of the two will happen).  They are plugged into the same circuit but different outlets and the breaker doesn't trip.  Also my monitor is in the same power bar as the computer but doesn't lose power.

I'm assuming this circuit is browning out as the LED behavior is similar to what you see when you use a dimmer switch with a regular LED bulb.

Prior to calling an electrician are there any basic trouble shooting steps that I should look at when a circuit seems to be browning out or would all possible problems require an electrician?


texts: Water damage or bad patch job on the ceiling directly under the shower stall of master bath?

texts:
We moved in 2 years ago into a new build. Just today I’ve noticed this discoloration on the ceiling. Directly above it is the master bath shower stall.
My husband thinks this is a bad patch work. I’m just a little worried since we are both first time home owner and both not very handy at all.
I  would like second/third opinions from someone that is more knowledgeable than us.


texts:
I need to seal my basement walls.

The manufacturer indicates that Drylok can be sprayed. However most professionals I speak with state that it will destroy the gun.

Is it possible to spray Drylok or another sealant paint?


texts:
Which is water shut off valve here?
I need to shut valve to fix bathrooms


texts: Why am I getting 20V from a light socket after changing the bulb?

texts:
I had a bulb burn out, and when I went to replace it, the new bulb didn't work. I put a multimeter on the socket to test it and I'm getting 20V instead of 120V.

There are no other electrical problems that I know of in the house.

Any suggestions about why this could be?


texts: Spa/hot tub A/C pump hums, but does not run

texts:
When I turn on the power to my hot tub at the breaker, I can hear the relays closing and the pump hums for a short while, but it doesn't turn.

I recently drained and filled my hot tub.  After refilling, I ran the pump for a few minutes to circulate some chemicals, so it was working at the time.  I then turned off the power at the breaker to check something.  Then, when I turned the power back on, the pump wouldn't start.  The control panel lights up.  I can hear the relays click in the control box, and hear a humming for a few seconds (the pump trying to start, maybe, it's hard to tell) then the humming stops.

I read that air in the pump can prevent priming.  However, the pump did run for a few minutes after we refilled the hot tub, so I don't think it's air in the line.  Just to be sure I loosened the outlet connector on the pump and water drained out, in hopes that any air would be released

The control box unit has two fuses labeled pump 1 and pump 2, and I've checked and they're both good.

The pump connects to the control box via a specialized plug, and I'm sure it's well connected.

Maybe the capacitor on the pump went out? As I indicated, it's probably 10 years old. How do you troubleshoot that?
Something jamming the pump from turning? How can you check that?
Anything else?

Update 1  Replaced the capacitor and it ran for a short while but stopped again.  I've removed the pump and will test it on a bench.

Update 2 After pulling the motor out I confirmed that the impeller could be easily turned by hand, so it wasn't jammed.


texts: How can I sand 1/2 inch hardwood floors?

texts:
I need to refinish the hardwood floors in my new house.  I was going to rent one of those giant drum sanders to do the job, but everywhere I read says that unless the floor is 3/4 inch thick, you should consult a professional.  Mine is 1/2 inch, and if I had the funds to consult a professional, I wouldn't have been researching the topic in the first place.

My question is:  what equipment should I use to sand the floors?  Is there a special technique I should employ?  Any additional tips would be appreciated.


texts: Is it "OK" to have my pool heater and pump share a circuit?

texts:
I replaced a rusted out millivolt natural gas pool heater with a new model, but forgot to note that it needs an electrical connection as well (for vent,etc).

I have a 240V line run out there for the pump. (2x20Amp breakers).

The manufacturer doesn't recommend hooking them both up but it's a long run to a corner of my property and it would mean removing some concrete to run the conduit out to the heater location. Seems the manufacturer's main reason to have separate circuits is to prevent a problem with one interfering with the other.

The pump pulls <9A at max load. The Heater pulls VERY little, much less than 1A.

Currently, there is nothing except an outdoor switch to the pump.  Other than a very costly second run to the heater, what's my next best option? A junction box after the existing switch? replace switch with junction box and two switches? Some way to separate the line in to two (tighter to spec) breakers?

I do plan on having an electrician do this work, but I want to educate myself before I sign any work orders.

Edit:

There is direct-buried 12/3 wire run out the the pump. So running another line is not at all economical.


texts: How can I fix a bathtub that was not set properly?

texts:
I think the floor was not prepped correctly. The tub creaks a lot and there is a great deal of vertical play when standing and moving around.

The tub does appear to be level, so I don't think that's the problem.

It doesn't seem to be such an issue when it's full of water and I'm sitting down- I suppose the weight is more evenly distributed.

   |w|  o  |
   |a|     |
 ->|l| tub |
   |l|_____|
   |_______|

I was thinking of:

Cutting a hole in the in the wall (where the little arrow is)
Pouring some self-leveling cement into the frame underneath the tub

It's a fiberglass tub and there is not a big gap between the bottom of the tub and the floor, so I don't really know if much cement will flow underneath the way I want.

Would a different product work better for this? Maybe expanding foam? or something else?

I can't remove the tub because there is tile lapped over it in a way I can't remove without damaging everything.


texts: How do I fix a sticking toilet refill float?

texts: After flushing, my toilet doesn't sense that it needs to refill. See the below image. If I so much as gently touch the gray piece, the toilet starts to refill. Any easy fixes?


texts:
How can I change these plastic backing strips in this chair?

I have another chair exactly like this one, but the white plastic strips are broken.


texts: How can I raise a bonus room subfloor level with the adjacent floor?

texts:
We recently bought a house and closed off upstairs was a bonus room which is over the family room on the main level below. The bonus room has a sub floor already in it, but it wasn't opened. So I cut the wall open at the end of the hall and put a door in. I now want to finish the room, but my question is, how is the best way to build up a floor.

When you go from the hallway into the unfinished room, there is about a 2" drop to the subfloor. I want to bring that floor up to level with the hallway.

Can I just cut 2 x 4s down and place them on top of the plywood subfloor and then put a new subfloor on top, or do I need to rip the old subfloor out and put some ripped down strips on the joists??


texts: How can we get maximum life of a water well?

texts: If we found a water well, how can we get the life time of a water well. Is it possible, I could not found the answer on internet search.


texts: Mudding over plaster walls with pre-mixed joint compound

texts: I just read a blog stating that pre-mixed joint compound should not be put over pre-existing plaster walls.  Why?  What is the best product to use?


texts:
We always  liked this toilet for it's strong and quick flush (American Standard Chamption, I believe, with a 4" flush valve), but now we consider it a problem especially seeing the water 'burping' up before going down, and it causes a similar burp and sucking of some water from the the adjacent bathroom...

Short video clips...

When This Toilet Flushes...

This happens to the other one

We just remodeled the bathroom adjacent to this one and the new toilet (wall-mounted) gurgles a bit and has some water sucked out when the American Standard is flushed.  The bathrooms are adjacent but the toilets are on different walls and not directly back-to-back.   The American Standard is in an updated bathroom done before we bought the house.

This behavior was happening before the new bathroom remodel as well but it wasn't pronounced or particularly problematic; now the gurgling in the new bathroom is louder and the wall-mount toilet bowl has less water to begin with, so we definitely want this addressed.

Yesterday the plumber snaked all the vent pipes in the house and found a bit of leaves but nothing that made any difference.

The new toilet and one other in the house work fine and do not affect each other when flushed

I realize this is a trial-and-error type of problem and I would like to get it resolved in the smartest and least costly way (hence my posting here...)
Appreciate any advice.


texts: How should this hole in concrete/stone be repaired?

texts: While doing a routine home inspection I found this hole in the exterior wall of the home.  If I understand the structure correctly, there is a concrete or stone foundation to the exterior walls and a large beam sitting across a rock at the center of the home in the crawlspace which has a supporting wall above it on the main floor.  The hole is quite deep, at least 4 or 5 inches.


texts: Are compression fitting threads all the same?

texts: I found a weird fitting that I need but it's made by Swagelok (https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-400-1-6).  One side of this fitting is a compression fitting and I'm hoping to connect a standard stainless steel braided hose to it, like the ones used for connecting ice makers or sinks.  I'm just wondering if anyone might know whether normal braided hoses made for standard compression fittings would be compatible with these fittings.  The reason I ask is because Swagelok used different ferrules than the normal compression fittings I've seen.  The ferrules don't need to be compatible but the threads do if I want to connect the two together.


texts:
What is the benefit of an added internal metal frame/core on vinyl windows?

We are about to replace our 1965, single pane, full metal jacket, rattle-when-a-helicopter-flies-by windows. Since we want to get rid of the metal frame and trim we need to do a full replacement of the entire window, including the frame.

We have received quotes for windows where the frame is made entirely of only vinyl; a cut-away of such a frame is shown below:

Another (more expensive) quote had windows that included an internal metal frame, sample shown below:

I have been cautioned against windows that are vinyl-only as they may be more susceptible to thermal expansion and contraction, especially since we are in Southern California. Additionally, above a certain size, vinyl-only windows supposedly are more prone to having the frame sag over time.

We do not live in a "fancy" neighborhood, so vinyl windows are appropriate. However, I wonder whether going with a high-quality vinyl-only window is sufficient or whether a metal frame is more desirable for long-term survivability of the investment?


texts: Trying to wire a water heater to a breaker box

texts: I connected the black and red wires to a double 30 amp breaker . What do I do with the white and ground wires?


texts: Two of the guest bedrooms in my house are under the same circuit breaker trip switch. I just found out that I can't have a 1500W room heater plugged inside each of those bedrooms at the same time, as the circuit breaker trips when I do that. This is inconvenient as we use room heaters at night in the bedrooms we use to save on electric bill. Is there a way I can easily & safely "adjust" the circuit breaker so raise the "trip threshold" just enough so that it does not trip with the 2 heaters on? Or is this a job that will require rewiring the 2 rooms?


texts: How can I soundproof my bedroom walls as cost effectively as possible?

texts:
My bedroom is next to the kitchen on one wall, a hallway on one wall, the outdoors on one wall and the PC room on the other. The wall that bothers us the most is the kitchen wall.

We would like to soundproof the kitchen wall and maybe the hallway wall.

Is that possible without it costing a fortune?


texts: Do I need to derate wire ampacity for two or more sets of wires in the same raceway for subpanel wiring?

texts:
I was planning to pull three sets of four conductors (3 AWG wire) through 2" EMT conduit for a 30' length that is common to all three sets of wires, and then branch off at a listed metal junction box (10"x10"x4") to three 1 1/4" EMT conduits. I was planning to do this as part of running wiring for three 100-amp subpanels from a 200-amp main.

However, I was doing some re-reading of the NEC (2011 version), and recalled the need to de-rate ampacity of conductors where spacing is not maintained (such as in an EMT raceway) for runs greater than 24" per clause 310.15(B)

Per 310.15(B), it appears that the max ampacity for the wires is now only 92A and that I will not be able to use the single run of 2" conduit I had planned and instead will need to run three completely separate runs of EMT to allow for the three 100A subpanels with the 3 AWG wire I was planning to use -- is this correct or is there something else I am missing that would make my original plans okay?

Calculations and Code References:

3 AWG THHN with 90 degree rating = 115 A allowable ampacity per Table 310.15(B)(16)

6 conductors in the same conduit = 80% allowable ampacity per 310.15(B) (relevant sections quoted below)

+6 conductors => 3 sets of 2 out-of-phase hot wires
+0 conductors => 3 sets of 1 neutral carrying the unbalanced load (per 310.15(B)(5)(a)

  310.15(B)(5)(a) A neutral conductor that carries only the unbalanced
  current from other conductors of the same circuit shall not be
  required to be counted when applying the provisions of
  310.15(B)(3)(a).

+0 conductors => 3 sets of 1 ground wire (per 310.15(B)(6)

  310.15(B)(6) Grounding or Bonding Conductor. A grounding or
  bonding conductor shall not be counted when applying the
  provisions of 310.15(B)(3)(a).
  (b) In a 3-wire

115 A * 80% = 92 A


texts: Improving insulation on windows and preventing heat loss

texts:
Here are the images of my window (currently it's 18F/-8C outside, 74F/23C inside):

Now, this condensation / ice forming gets even worse - on some days whole bottom of the window from the first picture is completely covered with ice / condensation.

My assumption is that heat loss happens here because edges of windows are not properly insulated. Is that assumption a sound one? This doesn't happen on any other windows in the room - condensation / ice always forms on these two windows.

If I am correctly identifying the problem, few questions:

What should I use to improve insulation and prevent heat loss here? Generic caulk?
If I am to use caulk, should I apply it inside or outside? Both?


texts: I live in Pakistan and we have no electric panel or separate wires for different devices. I am going to rewire my house but before that I wanted to secure the refrigerator wire. I've been reading everywhere that there should be a 20A circuit breaker for the dedicated refrigerator line so I went to an electrical shop and asked him to give me a 20A breaker for it. He said that 20A is too high and I should get a 4A circuit breaker for it. We have a 220-240 single phase coming to our house. My refrigerator's nominal current is 1.25A (200W). The circuit wire is 7/0.29mm. I tried to object saying the breaker would keep tripping because its a big one but he said that he has been using the same breaker for his own big size refrigerator so it will work. Eventually I ended up buying it and attaching the refrigerator phase wire with it. Its been 3 days but still it hasn't tripped. So I want to know is it safe with this amp breaker? Why do we need a 20Amp breaker for it when 4Amp is working just fine?


texts: Does using an existing attic exhaust pipe to also serve air flow from a range hood cause smells/micro particles of oil/soot/etc to get into attic?

texts:
Our kitchen renovation contractor decided to change plans on us and vent the range hood out via the same pipe as was pre-existing to passively control the temperature in our attic, instead of vent out the side of the house as this person originally suggested (See further below).

It has got me thinking that perhaps with an opening in the side of this pipe in the attic to allow hot air in the top of the attic to make it's way out the top of the roof, that some/all of whatever is going to be sucked up by the range hood could make it's way into the attic instead of going to the vent on the top of the roof.

Is there some scientific principle that would prevent that, or has the contractor taken a shortcut with ramifications (vermin being attracted into the attic as a result of meaty smelling oils is one thought)?


texts: Do i still need the insulation in an old ceiling light if I'm no longer using incandescent bulbs?

texts:
The insulation itself is in fairly ragged shape after I pulled it down and then replaced it. (I wanted to avoid it getting soaked due to a plumbing leak above.)

In addition to being in poor shape, when I went to reinstall the light bulbs I'd removed when I pulled the insulation down I noticed that both appeared to have suffered damage from overheating, presumably due to being in direct contact with the insulation.

Am I safe in assuming the insulation was only needed originally because incandescent bulbs put out much larger quantities of heat, and that it is no longer needed with modern low power bulbs.


texts: Do two circuits on one receptacle require shared trip breakers?

texts:
In California I have two separate circuits powering a single a single receptacle (such as for a dishwasher and disposal). This is not a MWBC.

Does current code require these circuits to be on shared trip breakers?

What if they are two separate receptacles in the same double gang box?


texts: Clamps for cutting PVC or other circular objects

texts:
This is about as simplistic as it gets...

They make wood clamps, C clamps, etc, for securing objects with a flat surface that you are about to cut.  Whether it's a circular saw, sawzall, jigsaw, whatever.

Is there a clamp for securing various circular/cylindrical objects like PVC pipe?  Or maybe a trick when you have wood clamps?  Various diameters...

I would love to be able to clamp a PVC pipe to my wood sawhorses, hands free, so I can focus on cutting it cleanly with a sawzall or circular saw plunge cut.  Does such a thing or a technique exist?


texts: How can I fix a garbage disposal with crushed glass in it?

texts:
I have a garbage disposal that had a shot glass fall in. It got ground up. The disposal got jammed; I unjammed it and now it makes a glass grinding noise because of the shards inside.

How do I clear the glass?

What do I need to do to fix this?


texts: Why do I have Insulation in internal wall between two rooms?

texts:
I have been carrying out a bit of DIY in my bathroom, in a new wall which was put up with my loft conversion which happened of the winter. Inside this new wall, I've found a significant quantity of insulation (rockwall or something of the like).

Clearly this was put in for a reason. But this is in a wall separating my bathroom from my internal staircase to the loft, so there is unlikely to be much of a thermal gradient between these two rooms.

Can anyone tell me why this was put in? Thermal insulation seems irrelevant, unless maybe it's to increase the fire redundancy of the partition wall. Only other idea I had was sound insulation, but wouldn't expect it to have that much effect.

I'm in the UK in case that helps anyone.


texts: What can replace this PVC toilet flange in iron pipe?

texts:
The old PVC flange appeared to be sealed to the iron pipe by a rubber coating, which is not something I've encountered (in my limited research).

Will a simple push-tight toilet flange like this be good enough without additional welding? Its product page mention that it can be used inside cast iron pipes.


texts: How to find joists through sheetmetal ceiling?

texts:
I have an antique sheetmetal ceiling of historical importance in my centenarian vintage home.  As I am currently in the last stages of installing an AC system and the parts of the house that have vintage ceiling get exposed spiral pipe as to avoid ugly soffits or other forms of ceiling destruction (looks very, very cool), I actually need to suspend the pipe in one or two places.  The ceiling is on the first floor and there is a carpeted bedroom above. From demolishing a patch of such a ceiling in another part of the house, I know (with a high degree of certainty) that between the joists and the sheetmetal is lath and plaster. I suppose I could anchor it into 3/8" lath but I would prefer a joist for extra firmness.

The problem, as you can imagine, is locating ceiling joists through a sheetmetal ceiling.  I tried a really nice stud finder (Bosch) but that did not help much as the sheetmetal is blocking the signal.  I also tried using it through the carpet upstairs but the experience was similar.  Any idea how I can find a joist with a relative degree of certainty, as any mistake will leave a visible hole in the ceiling?


texts:
Some time ago I posted about issues with my tankless water heater, concerned about the water going cold mid shower.

Recently I found the issue isn't in the water heater - there are times when all the water pressure in the house including cold and at the closest spiggot to the mail drops by around half. It seems to be pretty regular intervals,  roughly every 10 minutes.

What could cause this and how can I fix it?

Edit:

Thanks for the responses everyone. There is a large recycling center fairly close by. It is likely the reason for the periodic drops.

I've adjusted the regulator. Although the pressure still drops it isn't nearly as severe.

Hopefully it'll be enough to keep the flow sensor on my inline tank from kicking off.


texts: Replacing Ceiling fan reversing switch for summer and winter mode

texts: Hi I was looking to replace my ceiling fan reversing switch which has disintegrated the manufacturer of the fan does not hold any as fan is 15 years old,switch supplier in Hong Kong does not make it either anymore .Are reversing switches universal as I found one from creoven which just states  "Ceiling fan reversing switch for summer and winter mode" no specs or other details.


texts: Can I run wires for neutral and ground separate from the feeds for a new sub-panel?

texts: I am removing two 15 amp breakers at the top left of my 40 space electric panel to be replaced with a 2 pole 30 amp breaker for backup generator. Can I just run two THHN #14 wires through a flexible conduit from an adjacent sub-feed panel and use common ground and neutral on first 40 space panel?


texts: I want to put up paper shades in the bathroom but it came off with my regular tape. What's the most affordable tape that will hold up in moisture-filled room? Any of the Duck brand ones?


texts: Trying to change a 3 way dimmer switch to a 3 way switch

texts:
See pictures the old 3 way dimmer no any screw can be seen except three wires out (two red and one black) and the box have two black wires and one red wire. Just confused which one can be the hot one and which two can be the travelers. So, please give me a hand. Thank you very much for your helping in advance

Pictures about down stairs 3 way both side.
enter image description here Pictures about down stairs 3 way both side.


texts: Small shop fire safety for liquids/wood dust

texts:
I am setting up a very basic wood shop. Basically a car garage. But I am away for it often for a few days at a time. It does have a fire alarm which of course depends on someone hearing it but I've never dealt with wood dust/woodworking flammable products before.
My first concern is about wood dust, I know it's extremely flammable and should not be left around. I have a vacuum so I vacuum and wipe down tables when I finish and throw it in the garbage. There is still very fine dust in the air but I don't think setting up a filtering system for a car garage I use a few times a week to make a few cuts makes sense. Is this a safety issue? If yes what is the most barebones solution?
Is leaving wood dust in the trash can a fire hazard and should be taken out daily?
There is no reason to assume there will be fire/sparks any more than in a typical house garage.
And second some liquids like Acetone and WD40 are flammable and can explode. Is there any point to keep them in a separate plastic container? Is fine wood dust landing on flammable containers create a higher fire hazard than if they are stored in a separate plastic container?
Again no reason to assume any source of flame or spark more than there is in a regular home.
I am concerned because I've never dealt with wood dust before.
Thank you!


texts: How to shut off water coming from the hot water heater

texts:
I'm trying to shut off water coming from my hot water heater.  I currently have the water shut off to the entire house due to a shower repair that went awry (hot water flows like a shower even though the faucet is turned off).  The plumber I am waiting on suggested turning the water off at the hot water heater, so that I can turn the main water back on and still have use of the cold. He made it sound like no big deal, but I am unsure of what I am doing. I am wanting to do this because it may be at least a couple days before the repair can be done.  So, I guess my question is, what is the easiest way to do this? Do I have to turn off the electric supply?  Can I just turn a valve that stops the water? My hot water heater is electric and in the basement of my ranch home.

Side question, I have lived here several years and never drained the hot water heater.  Should I do this as routine maintenance?
Thank you!


texts: What should I use to seal around the perimeter of a tile floor?

texts:
I recently tiled our bathroom floor (nothing fancy - just a 7 x 5 room).  In between the tiles, I've used a sanded grout and that's worked nicely but I'm confused on what to use around the perimeter of the floor.  There's a gap between the tile floor and the wall - it ranges anywhere from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.  Should I use grout here as well? Or something else?

Eventually I'm planning to have a base board so no matter what, the gap won't be seen.

Beneath the tile is hardiebacker, moisture resistant paper (two layers, and subfloor.


texts: Used wood stain on a coffee table and it dried with spots?

texts:
I read the instructions on the can and it said to let it sit for at least 8 hours.  I stained it last night and when I checked this morning it was looking great.  But I just checked now and it appears that there are a bunch of small dark spots that have appeared.  The only thing that I can think that would have caused it is that I left it in my hot garage all day.

Is there anyway to get rid of these?  How can I prevent this in the future?


texts: Electrical help: wired new Z-wave wall switches (fan and lighting), old switches were jumpered and I don't understand the reason

texts:
I had three regular wall switches which operate appliances in this order:

1 Ceiling can lights (replaced with z-wave dimmer switch).

2 Fan lighting

3 Fan on/off (replaced with z-wave fan controller)

At the gang box, there are two incoming (line) wire sets from the breaker and three outbound (load) wire sets. All 5 of the neutrals (white) were twisted and capped. Switch one had two wires connected at the line terminal (one from the breaker and the other jumpered to switch 2 (line). Whats odd is that switch 2 had three wires connected to the line terminal (jumper from switch 1, the other line from the breaker, and another jumper to switch 3).

The two new switches (at position 1 and 3) require neutrals to be connected, so I jumpered each neutral terminal to the other 5 (7 total). Other than that, I kept the same config and things seems to work but I'd like some validation I did it correctly.

It seems redundant that switches 2 and 3 are powered of two lines. Would this cause my ceiling lights (operated by new dimmer switch) to get less current or would everything still draw exactly the current it needs regardless?


texts:
I have two outlets that have the lower outlet controlled by a wall switch. The red wire is the switch.
I am trying to swap these out with an outlet that has only spots for black white and ground and I have no need for them to be controlled by the switch any longer. What do I do with the red wire?


texts: How can I block this venting from rodents?

texts:
As a follow up to this question, I have two 54' x 3 " gaps running the length of an overhang in my roof supposedly for venting.  I believe these to be the point of entry for some squirrels and who knows what else.  I bought the house as a foreclosure, and when I asked the housing inspector about it, he indicated they were by design for "venting."  At the time I thought, great no rodent on my roof will have a hard time getting in there.  Turns out that was true.  Would covering these with a screen be the best course of action for preventing entry?  I feel like that would barely slow them down.

What is the best way to seal this?  I would try running the length with sub-flooring, but that seems like it would exclude the "venting" idea if that is in fact needed.

If screen is the best choice, is there a material, grade, mesh, and/or thickness that would be recommended?

Is this on the money when it recommends:

  The use of ½-inch x ½-inch screen is a reasonable compromise between
  ventilation requirements and rodent control.


texts: How to finish edges of drywall between exposed wall studs

texts:
I want to leave wall studs in my beach cottage exposed.  My first choice for in between is drywall panels.

How do I handle the joints where the drywall will butt up against studs?  Do I tape and sand them--or is there some alternative?

Before deciding on this look, we insulated walls (rigid insulation) from the inside.  I was planning to address this issue by attaching the drywall to a small frame to be added inside the studs.

Comments or advice?


texts: How should I lay my engineered flooring to account for a hearth?

texts:
I'm scratching my head over how to layout some new flooring in relationship to our walls vs. hearth.

This is an engineered floor with somewhat wide boards (about 4.5")

As it happens, I could lay them out and not need to rip any of the boards as they'd fit wall-to-wall (see bottom image). However, if I do that, I'd need to notch-out a few to go around the tile hearth (top image).

Is this just an aesthetic decision I need to make or is there a general rule of thumb? My initial thought was that having a nice line across the front of the hearth would be better, as that seems like a dominant element in the room. But that would leave two uneven slivers of full boards on either side of the room and maybe that would look even more odd?

I should also note that around the hearth, there will be a beveled wood trim piece as the flooring is about a half inch lower than the hearth. I don't know if that would change things or not (would that hide the notch or accentuate it?)

Top image: floor laid out with seam lining up with front of hearth. This leaves two different sized partial strips on either end of the room.

Bottom image: floors laid out evenly wall-to-wall. Needs to be notched to fit around hearth.


texts: How do I fix metal clad wood casement windows that won't close?

texts:
I recently purchased a house that built in 1937. I believe the windows are original, and they are all casement windows. I'm not sure of the correct term, but the windows are clad in metal with a slot, as are the frames. From the look of it, they were suppose to seal by interlocking. However, at this point the windows won't fit into the frame at all.

I can't plane/sand the window or frame to account for the swelling that has likely taken place. Is the best bet to remove the metal and replace with another seal? If I remove the window, I may be able to plane/sand the hinge side, but I don't know if the metal will seal properly. What is the best way to deal with this, short of replacing the window?

I've wedged them shut for the moment, but I can open one up to take more pictures if needed. We're having a stink-bug issue, so I don't want to open them more than I have to.

Thanks

EDIT - Added additional/better photos

I will measure it more precisely later, but it appears to sit square in the frame.

Photo of window opened

Photo of frame

Photo of closed window

This is as far as it can close


texts: Replacing an old 4 way toggle by leviton 4 way switch

texts:
There are 2 white wires on one side, 1 red on top and 1 black on bottom  on other side, there is no ground/green screw as it is very old.  I transferred all the wires one from the old switch to their corresponding spot on the new switch, one by one (2 white wire on black screws, the other 2 wires on the brass).

The switch now works, but not the way it used to be.  So I switched sides, and it's still the same.  What did I do wrong? Can you please help?


texts: How to cut copper pipes quickly (and cleanly)

texts:
Are there tools for cutting copper pipes that work faster than manual tube cutters like this one? I have the latter type of cutter, and it works fine, but it takes a fair amount of time and effort to cut a pipe with it. I'm assuming there must be tools that work faster but I'm not sure what I'd have to search for because I don't know what they are called.

I know I could always use a reciprocating saw for a fast cut, but I'm looking for something that would be both fast and cut the pipe cleanly.


texts: Is controlled burning of wooden buildings a legal demolition method in the USA?

texts:
An article on the BBC News website about the "Disaster Girl" meme claims that this photograph of a burning building was taken in 2005 in North Carolina at a "controlled burn", which the BBC explains is "a fire intentionally started to clear a property".
I was quite stunned by this information. Was/is this a legal way to demolish wooden buildings in the USA? Is this method used often?
(I suppose it's quicker than taking a building apart bit by bit, but the debris becomes unusable, I guess you have to pay the fire department to keep an eye on things, you probably need insurance... I can't imagine it being much cheaper than hiring a bulldozer.)

Disaster Girl meme, photograph by Dave Roth


texts: How can I blend sanded cedar into the surrounding darker wood with a polyurethane finish?

texts:
I applied unfinished cedar tongue and groove wood, to my ceiling and I applied one coat of minwax fast drying clear polyurethane to it.

I noticed that one of the sections turned a light grey and had streaks from the roller. So I sanded them and accidentally sanded deeper into the cedar wood.
However, since the cedar claims to be unfinished I did not think it would make a difference once I applied a 2nd coat.

Although, as you can see in the picture the light sanding marks are still very visible and make the ceiling look very patchy in that section. What is very strange is that the marks are not as visible if I stand right below it.  Any suggestions on how to blend these in?


texts: Should I run 2 regular circuits or a subpanel to my septic site?

texts:
We're installing a septic system on otherwise undeveloped land. Eventually there will be a house near the septic system, but that could easily be years away. The electric service entrance is on a post on the edge of my property.

The septic system has a 240V 15A pump. We're putting 140' of 2" conduit in a trench to provide power to a post with the pump's control box.

I'd also like to put a 120V recep on the post, because it would be very convenient to have one there.

I could put breakers in the main service panel, one 240V for the pump and one 120V for the recep, and run those through the conduit. Or I could put a subpanel on the post, and run just one circuit from the main panel.

2 separate circuits seems simpler, but it would be nice to keep the space open in the main breaker panel.


texts: Is it possible to self install a grounding rod?

texts: This has been a baffling question as I notice electrician charge an arm and a leg to upgrade electrical systems in a home.  My home was built in the 1930s and it’s not grounded.  I was wondering if a grounding rod is just a long stick that goes deep down in the ground.  If so, how deep should I drill?  Second, if I just connect that to the cold water pipe, I can ground all my outlets to that cold water pipe?


texts: Bumped into a joist while drilling for a toggle bolt

texts: Uh oh. I've used two other toggle bolts to hang plants using a swag hook in this 2 sq foot area of my ceiling, and it never occurred to me that I might actually hit a joist. The one inch gap between the joist itself and the drywall is big enough that the wood screw bolt doesn't extend far enough to attach the hook. So, can't use the toggle, but can't use the bolt provided because it's too short. Any ideas? Attaching photo of swag hook to illustrate.


texts: Is 31v too much for a Ring doorbell calling for 24v?

texts:
I recently bought a Ring Doorbell. Electrical requirements show it needs a maximum of 24vac. When I tested the voltage on my current doorbell, it read 31vac. Is this too much for the Ring's circuitry?
Do I need an inline resistor?
I cannot access the transformer.
HELP!!


texts: Kill baseboard pests without killing dog

texts:
I have baseboard heating that goes all over my house. Since I bought this house nine months ago I've been hearing some noises coming from the baseboards on occasion especially at night. Like pinging, scurrying down there but I never saw anything so I thought maybe it was just the water moving through the pipes.

Well I heard it again and I just saw what's causing it for a half second. Some animal quickly ran from my closet into the heating duck where I can hear it but I can't see it. I think it was probably a mouse but it happened so fast I couldn't really tell.

I would like to immediately go by rat traps and a bunch of poison and stuff but what about my dog? I can't keep her away from the baseboards because they are everywhere. I'm upset with her for not having already caught and killed this thing but I don't want her to get poisoned or mousetrapped.


texts: What is the best technique for shaking a can of spray paint?

texts:
...and why is that the best technique?
This question seeks the pros and cons of different techniques for shaking the can.  What's more effective?  What's less likely to cause injury (including injuries from repetitive movements)?

This is not intended to be a subjective question or one based on style, any more than a question of "what is the best way to lift this heavy weight?" or "what is the best way to connect these wires to this outlet?"  There are some ways that are clearly better than others, and the reasons are not necessarily obvious, but someone who has a lot of experience with the subject might have figured out which ways are better than others.


texts: How can I soundproof a sliding bedroom door?

texts: Does anyone could suggest a way to completely soundproof a bedroom sliding door? I am investigating on car door system, when door is almost close at the end, it will push against door frame to ensure no space would appear so that it could become waterproof and soundproof, but deploy this kind of method is very time consuming and high risk of failure rate as there is no commercial available for this kind of door system. Perhaps someone who have such experience could give me some example?


texts:
I was out walking the other day and observed something strange with one house having a number of pigeons congregating on the roof. (This is not my home, so I have no insight into internal details.) A took a photo, below.

It's a semi-detached home, but the birds were noticeably staying on one side. They wrapped around the home, on both the south and west faces of the roof. The roof has an owl decoy installed, so I gather this must be an ongoing problem.

It's cold out (5C/41F), so I figured the birds just gather around the exhaust vent. But then I'd expect to see them closer to the vent and on both sides of the home.

Then I thought maybe they are catching sun, because it's a south-facing roof. But then I would think this would happen on other houses' roof too.

Is this roof just poorly-insulated? Something else going on?


texts: I have been using my bosch drill to power a small wood turning lathe. Now the drill is always in hammer drill mode even though it is not switched to hammer drill. I opened the drill up but it looks like a bit of a  maze in there. Can anyone point me in the right direction here before i dump the drill. What I should be looking for etc. Id love to repair this myself if possible.


texts: Laminate flooring in multi-width bathroom

texts:
The master bath has several widths as seen below.  [The closets will not get laminate flooring.]  My guess is to determine the cuts required for each width and choose the best fit.  How best to deal with this multi-width situation?

A related issue is dealing with the edges at the tub & shower.  The tub is in an imitation marble enclosure; the shower is a fiberglass pan. How best to finish those edges?

Some details not shown: The "throne room" has a pocket door.  The left hand closet has a sliding mirror door.  The right hand closet is simply open and carpeted (as is everywhere else).


texts: Once outlet removed others in separate room don’t work

texts: Doing a remodel in our formal dinning room and need to remove an outlet. Once outlet removed, outlets in other room don’t work. Once I reconnected the outlet other outlets worked. How do I remove the outlet without affecting the others?


texts: Are "pigtailed" conductors at an outlet required to comply with the length requirements of 300.14 for conductors that are spliced in the box?

texts: I normally make any pigtails at an outlet or switch box about six inches, same as the requirement found in 300.14 for spliced conductors that emerge from their cable or raceway into the box, but an older electrician makes his about three inches and told me they don't have to be any longer than you want to make them. I'm not finding any exceptions to the rule for these pigtails, but I also realize the point of 300.14 is more to keep the working conductors long enough to work with. Is my electrician friend correct?


texts: Use Gap and crack sealant on the window sill

texts:
I have a small gap (2mm) under the window sill that is causing some draft to come inside the house. I have attempted to correct this using the Ge Silicone Caulk, but the draft continues to come in.

So I am going to now try the gap and crack sealant in that area? The name of the product is Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant and it is available at home depot.

How can I stop the draft from coming in? Is this the right product that I should use?

The temperature outside is 20 degrees F.


texts: How to replace a Gerber Toe-push tub drain stopper?

texts:
I need to replace existing gerber toe-push tub popup stopper, because the rubber gasket is worn out. Below are images of the toe-push stopper.

Click on image for a larger version of the image.

Click on image for a larger version of the image.

The fitting on the toe-push appears to be either 10-24 or a M5.

Below is image of of the tub drain shoe

The depth of the fitting in drain shoe is about 1 1/4 inches

I purchased Danco Replacement tub drain stopper.

Click on image for a larger version of the image.

Issue: The fitting the Danco replacement part is 5/16 inches or 3/8 inches. The fitting in the tub drain shoe is less than 5/16 inches. I think the fitting is may be 1/4 inches.

Anyone run into a similar issue and if so can share how the problem was solved.

What are possible alternative fittings or any another options?

Note: I also tried the PF waterworks Fits 3/8 in.and 5/16 in. TubSTRAIN Universal Toe Touch (Tip Toe or Foot Actu.) Hair Catcher Bathtub Drain Stopper in CH appear worked but the gasket was too high thus didn't to the job.


texts: I am installing a new 240v receptacle in the garage to charge my electric vehicle.  The charger requires a 20 amp breaker and will pull 16 amps.  I plan to run 30' of 12/2 UF-B wire beneath the floor in the 3' crawl space to the outside wall electrical panel.  Question - must the ground wire be insulated or can it be bare?


texts: Changing a switched outlet to half-hot and found pigtails

texts:
I’m trying to change a switched outlet to a half-hot outlet. The receptacle itself had one black wire and two white wires (plus ground), and then I saw a pigtail with two black and one white wire.
I broke off the brass bridge tab but then realized that I didn’t have an always hot wire already attached.
Can I just take one of the black wires from the pigtail and add it to the receptacle to make that always-hot one?


texts: How to rip out inground pool's steel walls?

texts:
Planning a major house project for next spring. My wife and I decided to fill in our inground pool. Previous owners built it, but not sure when (could be anywhere from late 1970s to early 2000s, literally).

A few concerns:

How can I tell (right now - for planning purposes) what the walls of the pool are made of? I've heard they could be steel, polymer or even some other heavy duty composites...
If they are steel, ideally I'd like to scrap them for cash, which would help pay for the whole project. Any rough ideas as to what kind of steel inground pool walls are made of, and how much steel I might be looking at (ballpark)? My pool is a 20' x 30' rectangle that's 4' at the shallow end and 8' at the deep end.
Any rough idea as to what tools/processes safely remove these walls? I imagine they look something like the pic below, and that I'd have to jackhammer away the concrete on top of them and then dig them out on the backside. And then probably either (a) use an angle grinder (gauge/size?) to buck them up into portable chunks, or (b) perhaps they can be dismantled/unscrewed so I can avoid all that cutting. BTW, this is a DIY project, no contractors!

Thanks in advance for any-and-all guidance/steering!


texts: I have some joints between drywall and drywall and also drywall and cementboard that will not be exposed because they are behind cabinets. Do I still need to tape them together? Does taping provide any structural function or is it just for the looks?


texts:
I'm installing a new whole-house-fan, and am expecting good results. We live at 8,000' and have ~40 degree (f) temperature swings between day and night with very little humidity.

But we also have forest fires mid summer, generally during the hottest parts of the year (when we want to use the fan the most), and the air can sometimes be very smokey, and I don't want to just keep the downstairs windows open.

I know that an air conditioner would be best because it doesn't require importing outside air, but I'm hoping there's some way to filter outside air on the way in. My fan is ~2200 CFM, as far as sizing goes.

Is there a common and preferred method to filter ~2200 CFM of air that would be drawn into a home that's using a ~2200 CFM whole house exhaust fan?


texts: Why do the burners on my stove turn on and off while in use?

texts:
I've got a Whirlpool RF378LXPB0.

The two front burners (that can heat a smaller, inner burner, or both the small and larger around it) do not heat up all the way. When turning them on HI, the elements heat up red but then turn off after a few seconds. Once they cool down a bit they'll turn back on and heat up a bit until shutting off once again. I'm not mechanically or electrically inclined, and am not sure where to even start looking.


texts: Are tamper resistant receptacles really safer?

texts:
Tamper-resistant receptacles (marked with TR, sometimes know as TRR) are designed to be safer than regular outlets by making it more difficult to insert foreign objects. That said, there are lots of examples of things that were supposed to be safer which turned out to be more dangerous (uk outlet covers, wing floaters, margarine, etc.).

I could imagine tamper-resistant being less safe if they encourage kids to use both hands to insert foreign objects (disabling GFCI) or parents to leave extension cords in permanently to accommodate damaged plugs (increasing fire risk). is there any evidence to suggest that they are, in fact, safer than standard receptacles in the real world?


texts: How do I remove a stuck kitchen aerator tip?

texts: I recently moved into a new apartment and need to remove the aerator tip on the Moen kitchen faucet to set up the countertop dishwasher I brought with me from my previous apartment. It was missing the aerator inside and had a bunch of mineral build up to begin with. I've tried everything I found suggested for this issue online and it just won't budge. I tried soaking in vinegar and spraying both inside outside edges of the piece with WD-40 to break up the mineral build up and any rust. I tried (clockwise from above) hand twisting, a wrench, and channel lock pliers both with a cloth and without since it was missing the actual aerator to begin with so I'm not concerned about scratching but it hasn't moved at all, all that I've accomplished is stripping the metal on it. Shy of replacing the entire faucet, is there anything else I can try?


texts:
Typically the gut reaction seems to be, No way! Rip out the asphalt and start from scratch! But I have seen some reports from people who seem to know the process well that having an asphalt base actually is not a bad idea at all.

To explain better what I am doing: my 40 year old home has a garage where the asphalt floor is badly misshapen and bowed and especially sunken around the concrete foundations. It is in bad need of a resurfacing. I am just trying to figure out how I can remedy the situation without having to spend more than necessary.

So what are the issues with just pouring over top of the asphalt? It might be safe to assume that any settling has had many years to sort itself out. But I know very little about either asphalt or concrete.


texts: What's the best way to install permanent high/low gauges in a compressor based HVAC system rfc134a?

texts:
I have a heat pump water heater, and would like to install permanent pressure gauges on the liquid and suction lines (or more likely have a professional install the gauges).  Analog gauges are fine, though i2c would be even better.  The unit uses rfc134a, appears to use standard thread, though it's made in Europe.

I suspect I could purchase a manifold like this, and cap the yellow line to prevent accidents:

But I'm concerned that over the lifetime of the system, which is all hard copper pipe, the hoses on the gauge could get brittle and crack.  What hard pipe alternatives are there? What sort of threading specifications do I need?  What's the best way to get this done?


texts: What chemicals are available to remove and prevent mold appearing through brickwork?

texts:
This thread recommended Conchrobium followed by a Zinnser sealant.

I can't locate Conchrobium in Australia. Are there alternate or even more generic solutions that will treat the mold and prevent it from reappearing?

Unfortunately the moisture can't be easily stopped as the brickwork is under ground level.


texts: What is the best way to break concrete under existing framing (2x4) to install plumbing?

texts:
In the picture below I have selected the drain pipe that I need to install
How do I break the floor under that 2x4 used for framing?
Fist I will have to cut it out but after that what do I use to cut so close to the drywall on the opposite side without damaging the drywall or having an accidental crack extend beyond the drywall in the other room ?


texts: Door threshold/sill from unfinished concrete garage floor

texts:
I have a detached garage with a bare, unfinished concrete slab. The side door has a step down to grade. The old threshold was so rotted when we moved in, I couldn't tell you much of anything about it. The rest of the frame is badly rotted and the door beat up, so we're replacing the whole thing with composite in case we haven't actually fixed the water issues.
The part I can't wrap my head around is the threshold. We removed the old one because it was worse than useless, and actually we kind of like not having a threshold to step over there. All the exterior door thresholds I've seen are designed to be more or less even with a finished floor surface, and it seems to me like we would be constantly tripping over them.
Should I just ditch the threshold? Maybe put a sweep on the new door that extends all the way to the concrete? Is there another option I'm not aware of that would give a more gradual slope?
I was planning on using something more or less like this for the rest of the door frame: https://www.homedepot.com/p/FrontLine-1-1-4-in-x-4-9-16-in-x-83-in-Primed-Composite-Door-Frame-Kit-ULPA30684901/207124695#product-overview


texts:
I am working on opening up space between my lobby (on the right side of the wall) and the dining room area (on the left side of the wall).
The section of the wall that is used as cold air return ducts are is 3 studs wide.
The zeroeth (we'll call it) stud space (closest in the photos) has light switches and wiring running on one side and outlets on both sides of it. Part of this section also has a column (a bunch of 2x4s) that supports an LVL beam, so routing ducts there is likely out of the question.
Initially, I was only aware of one return air vent in joist space labeled #1, but once I opened the wall, I saw that the subfloor is actually has a cut-out below both, #1 and #2 stud spaces to split the return-air route. While #1 is taking the air from this space, the #2 route is fed by at least two return grills on the second level of the house. The air intake under the subfloor is an actual duct, maybe 6-8" diameter running from the basement and it is "cracked open" at the joist below to suck in air from two stud spaces.
So, my question is, what is the best way to tackle this and remove the stud spaces #1 and #2? I thought of the following options:

Rip subfloors (tile is going away anyway, so not a huge deal), along this wall to see how far that duct goes and then add a single stud-space to the furthest wall, where I will route both #1 (opening in the wall for the first floor), and #2 (opening in the joist space in the ceiling to get back to the other returns). Once I remove that 2x4 that is supporting that "header" with short 2x4s hanging down, I should be able to see how far that joist space opening goes to feed the upstairs and route accordingly.

Add to the thickness of the #0 stud space, basically, add another wall (shown with purple line) right behind that supporting column, delete that electrical outlet (I'll see if I can terminate it properly in the outlet on the other side, or even somehow bring it out in the new wall in it's own tiny stud space.), then split that additional column into two smaller joist spaces and route the return air that way.

What does everyone think? Any other ideas/options? Any concerns about the above options?
Thanks so much!
David


texts: Is it OK to vent a first floor bathroom with a fan and a duct running through the basement?

texts: I have a bathroom on the first floor of a two-floor house where the popcorn ceiling has dilated and cracked open twice within a year, and some mold is always coming back next to the ceiling, so I need to install a fan there. That bathroom has heating in the ceiling (therefore I'm avoiding ceiling fans), so I want to make a hole on the upper part of one of its walls -- one that's shared with a closet located inside the bathroom -- and install a fan there to direct the air downwards with a duct through the basement, where it would be exiting near the dryer vent with the necessary ending to avoid condensation and being a way in for animals. Does that seem like a good plan?


texts:
I have, of course, a lot of electric machines: Computer, printer, humidifier, etc.

But I want to make them "smart" by automatizing when the humidifier will turn on everyday.

The original humidifier doesn't have this.

But is there something like "automatizable button" that will work like a "connector" between the original humidifier (or any electric machine) and the electric outlet? So that I can automatize the "automatizable button" to be "on" at, say 8 pm everyday?


texts: My elderly mother had the insulation in her attic tested and we are having difficulty understanding the report.  The company that suggested the test says its bad but we are not sure if they are just looking to make money from her (which she does not have)?


texts: Electrical Help: Swap 50A Range for separate Cooktop & insert Oven (30A each)

texts:
House has a 50A, 3-line service to the old Range.
Want to instead have a separate Cooktop and an insert Oven located below it for a sleeker more integrated look. Each have a 30A requirement.
Can they both connect to the 50A feeder?
We have no good way to replace it with 2 separate circuits without replacing the whole electrical panel, and massive damage to ceilings, etc. to get it there.
Is it possible to share?
A range would have just as many burners and an oven on that same circuit, so it seems plausible.
Could replace the 30A cords on the appliance with 50A?  Or is it possible to fuse the 30A appliance cords in the J-Box before connecting to 50A home run?
(We'd need the J-box concealed in the cabinet, so a sub-panel option wouldn't work.)


texts: Is it possible to do a vinyl fence with differing colors on each side?

texts:
So basically my neighbors want a plain white vinyl fence.  I think the two tone look is much nicer (white posts and rails but grey slat panels in the middle).
I've been looking for double sided slats where one side is white and one side is grey but can't seem to find anything... Seems like it would be a desirable product for more people than just me.
Do they make such a thing?  Or am I going to need to just try and paint the panels grey?  In that case, what's a good paint/technique to do this?
My neighbors already installed a section and it is blinding to look at, so I'm desperate for a solution.  Plain white is quite painful on the eyes, both aesthetically and physically painful from the sun's reflection.
Edit:
As a note, the plan was to split the cost with the neighbors.  I wanted grey, they wanted tan... We settled on white since it can go with either of our houses... However, the only thing I really agreed to so far was putting the fence on the property line... They went ahead and installed the fence without much more discussion or input... So I'm not technically on the hook for it cost-wise... Though I'll pay for my portion when I end up tying into it when I fence off our yard.
I can paint the inner panels grey to get the two tone look I want... Just not sure that would look very good.   I was hoping they had pre-made panels which are double sided.


texts:
We have concrete stairs leading up to our front door.  I noticed today that a medium-sized piece of concrete is cracked & broken off at the corner of the stairs.
I don't really care about the look of it, I just don't want to lose the piece and have to deal with 'filling in' for it.  Is there a quick fix I can do?
Pics below


texts: How to ensure all deck posts are sharing the load

texts:
I'm in the process of levelling my deck. Top down diagram below, showing decking perimeter (black), beams (blue) and posts/footings (red).

Because of the irregular shape posts 1 and 3 are only 20" apart. I found in the process of levelling that beam 1-2 is nearly redundant under normal conditions. The joists above the beam can hold up beam 1-2 at post 1 if post 1 is removed without wincing.

The question is, how do I ensure that all of the posts are sharing the load evenly when I remove the temporary levelling supports, especially posts 1 and 3? It seems like it quite be easy to arrive in some position where one of these posts looks like it's doing something but actually just floating (since the deck can carry beam 1-2 without help). I will likely have to shim the posts because balancing this by cutting would need too much precision. I could shim the posts, but how do I ensure that the weight is roughly balanced as opposed to just tight enough to squeeze the shims a little?


texts:
Does an induction stove and an electric oven need to be on separate circuits? If they can be on one, what amperage circuit breaker do they need?

My house has a different circuit for each one, 50 amp for oven, 40 amp for stove. They are on opposite walls, and I'm redesigning my kitchen and would like to place them next to each other. So, if I could use the same circuit it would be much, much easier than having someone come out to relocate the second outlet, since I think relocating that outlet is beyond my comfort zone.

I'm looking at the amps required for a induction stove/oven combo, and they mostly say 40 amps, but when I look at just an induction stovetop by itself, it says 40 amps, and the wall oven I'm looking at says 20 amps. Little confused why it totals to much more when they are separate appliances.


texts: Should there be any moisture around a shower valve?

texts:
I just had a plumber install a new shower valve in a remodel and when I run my finger around the back of the ring on the front of the valve, I feel a little bit of moisture. It's a large walk in shower and he installed 2 of these valves but I only feel the moisture on one valve.

Is this normal? Is it maybe that the valve is just sweating a bit?

I did this on 2 separate occasions about 6 hours apart so I know it wasn't an isolated incident.

It's a Delta R10000-UNBXHF Multichoice Universal Shower Only Valve Body.


texts: Preparation and spraying cedar channel siding

texts:
I am repainting the cedar siding on my house. Since I have a sprayer, I'm hoping to save time by spraying. The question I have is:

How best to prepare the "channel" component of the siding? The channel is a 1" wide smooth slot, about 1/4" deep, not unlike a dado.The raised surface of the siding is about 4" wide.

I'm not having much in the way of peeling with the existing paint.

My plan at the moment is to scrape the rough portions, power wash, spray paint and then backroll the rough raised sections of the cedar. My theory is that there is not much point to back rolling or brushing the 1" wide channel.

Does that make sense? Am I making a mistake?


texts: Soundproofing a Door with a Shower Pump Behind It

texts:
I have a small room in which a shower pump is located. This room is only separated from the rest of the house by a wooden door. The shower pump is located on top of some sort of vibration dampening material, which is itself located on top of a layer of plywood which is then placed on the wooden floor.

The pump makes quite a loud noise while in operation and is very annoying to anyone in the flat. It is a Salamander CT50 (or very similar). Here's the culprit:

I want to somehow soundproof that door in order to reduce the noise. Considering the way the pump is placed, I would exclude the noise being transmitted through the floor. Hence I would assume there's only noise transmitted through the air.

I am renting the flat so changing the pump or making some sort of serious modifications is not an option.

I've already fitted a draught excluder under the door which can be seen in the picture as well. It is one of these.

I was thinking of also fitting some draught excluder tape on the side of the door frame and maybe some sort of sound dampening foam on the door but I'm not sure this is the way to go. There are about 3mm of space between the door and the frame.

How would you recommend to soundproof the door from the pump noises?


texts: Can 1 24v transformer support 2 smart thermostats.

texts:
I replaced my old thermostat with a lyric. My doorbell transformed was unused and 16 V. I replaced that with a 24 and wired it directly to my lyric. Everything works great.

If I do an additional thermostat in a different zone can I just add more wire to that existing transformer? Will multiple devices on the 24v cause issues?

Thanks


texts: I am converting my garage into a wood shop and have insulated my walls with faced R13 insulation.The ceilings have faced R13 installed with R30 unfaced additional to the R13. Do I need to install plastic sheathing on the ceiling. I plan on installing 7/16 OSB sheathing on the walls and ceiling.


texts: replace 250 lb propane tank with smaller tanks in parrallel

texts: Can I replace one 250 lb propane tank with four 50 lb tanks in parallel. The tank supplies a hot water heater and occasionally a fireplace. I can save quite a bit by taking the smaller tanks in to refill myself as opposed to having the gas truck deliver.


texts: Want to be certain that there is no way this decorative wall can be load bearing

texts:
I am in a top floor flat, 2nd floor (G, 1 & 2) and have a decorative wall [Picture 1] separating the kitchen from the living area.
I just want to be certain it cannot be load bearing, or that any extra column etc needs to be built in the middle.
The wall is parallel to the joists and the beams on the ceiling appear to simply be there to hold the wall in place but they are bolted to the end of the middle joist [picture 2] .
I found a picture of the flat in the next block online, and it is open plan, doesn't look like they had to build a column [picture 4].
Just want to put my mind at ease.


texts: Would untreated timber develop issues after being left out in rain for 2 weeks?

texts: I ordered a log cabin that came untreated. I'm almost done building my log cabin now but it's been soaking in the rain for the past 2-3 weeks now. How bad can this turn out in the future? Is there anything I can do now to fix any potential issues? I've been looking at the Roxil Wood Preserver. Would something like that help?


texts: How can I make the ceiling black, non-permanently?

texts:
I have bedroom curtains (double set - one rubber-backed and one sheer) that are letting in too much light where the light sneaks over the top of the curtains. The windows extend to the ceiling. The curtain rails are hung from the ceiling (similar to this installation lifted from this blog).

I'm planning on installing a pelmet, that extends to the ceiling, painted black on the inside (facing the curtains/window), and I think that will cut out a lot of the light. However, there is still a lot of light that hits the ceiling, and then bounces down between the two curtains and gives them a glow.

I'm thinking if I paint the strip of (plasterboard) ceiling between the pelmet and the window a matte black, that should help cut out a lot of those reflections.

However, I have been warned that if I do that, if I ever redecorate the room and remove the pelmet, I will not be able to paint over the black paint and restore it to its white colour.

My questions are:

If I paint part of the ceiling black, am I really making myself a problem later if I decide to restore it?
Is there another way to make the ceiling black on a more temporary basis? (I figure black Contact is not the way to go!)


texts: Exterior Window Casing in Brick Exterior

texts:
So I was attempting to install new exterior window casing on my windows due to the existing casing/trim peeling and seemingly rotting. The exterior of the home is brick so I bought some 1 1/4" x 2" brick moulding as I thought the gap between the exterior of the house and the window would be pretty big. But they seem to be significantly larger than I thought!

There were two pieces of wood which formed the casing for the window is seems, the most exterior piece of moulding I had already pulled off in this picture

At the top of the window there is around a 2&1/2" gap from the frame and the window that revealed itself after both pieces of casing were off. The gap was filled with loose cement, I just cleaned it out hoping to fill it with insulating foam. Here you can see the gap after both pieces of wood had been pulled off

there also doesn't seem to be any flashing what so ever and no drip edge installed.

The sides are even more confusing to me though, as it seems a piece of casing was installed under the actual brick exterior. Don't really know if I should remove this or what?

Clearly a noobie here, who would greatly appreciate any insight into a next course of action.


texts: How well does a single A\C unit provide 2 zone cooling?

texts:
My 2,900 square foot house currently has two separate AC systems (one upstairs, one downstairs).  They're both very old and need to be replaced.

One of the four HVAC salesman that provided quotes suggested using a single Lennox XC21 system and claimed it can provide 2 cooling zones.  They'd merge the supply ductwork and install dampers to allow one or the other or both zones to be cooled.

How well does this actually work?  Is the Lennox XC21 a good unit?  Based on the other info I've gotten, it seems the XC21 is spec'd out correctly as far as tonnage (5) and SEER (21) go.

On a side note, the salesman said I would NOT be able to use my Nest thermostat with the XC21 because there's some kind of humidity controller in the unit that the Nest won't be able to control.  Anyone know if this is really true or if there's a workaround?  I've become a bit addicted to my Nest!


texts: How to fix sagging composite deck railing

texts:
I have a composite deck (Fiberon boards with a Trex Designer railing system).  The guy that built the deck didn't install any of the crush/foot blocks and now the railings are sagging.  He's no longer in business, so now I need to try and fix this myself.  I found a place online https://www.diyhomecenter.com/trex/transcend-railing-adjustable-footblock.aspx that sells the adjustible foot block, but I don't know if that'd do me any good.  How can I install the footblocks now that the deck railing are already in place?

EDIT: This isn't my railing, but it's basically the same problem


texts: what lamp "ceiling" support to use having only a plain 5cm diameter hole

texts:
I moved to a flat that has on the ceiling 5cm holes with no way to screw or a hook to hang up a lamp, just the cables coming out, like the pictures attached.

What type of support could I use to install a basic e27 socket without the need to drill or damage the ceiling?

build-in lamps could be an option but how to fix them?


texts: How can heat pump water heaters be more efficient when they just use heat from heated space?

texts:
I understand the principle of heat pumps, and it makes sense that a heat pump / AC split system is more efficient then for example resistive heating for heating a house. In this case, the heat pump moves heat between inside and outside the conditioned space.
But all the heat pump water heaters I have seen are a packaged unit, with the evaporator coils just above the water heater tank. Since water heaters are normally installed inside the conditioned space, this setup just pumps heat that has been heated by the furnace or whatever else heats the home, and pumps it into the water. So it's not like you are using the "free" heat from outside, you are just using your normal house heat source to heat the water in a roundabout way. Obviously, during AC season, this would be an advantage. But am I seeing this right that the advantage is rather minimal during heating season, or am I overlooking something?


texts: Can I cut tempered glass with diamond circular saw blade?

texts:
This is safety glass, but it's very old glass <1994. So probably not the kind that will smash, but kite mark should tell you if it does.

I want to make a new door for my greenhouse out of it if I can, but that of course means cutting it down.


texts: How to cut out a rotted portion of exterior corner vertical trim?

texts:
I have a rotted hole in one of my exterior house vertical corner trim boards. The rot is about 3 feet up from the bottom of board. Rather than replace the whole 16' board, i just want to cut out a piece and replace it.

How do i cut off a straight section without damaging the siding next to it or the other side's corner board? I can't obviously use a circular saw. I cannot figure out a way.


texts: find where the brick is behind plaster before drilling

texts:
I'm putting up a wall mounted holder for my road bike and the istructions say that the bolts must go into brick, not mortar. There are three bolts and they are quite randomly placed (i.e not in a row).

I would usually use trial and error but in this instance because of the arrangement of bolts I could end up with lots of holes in my wall.

Is there a way to find where brick/mortar is behind plaster before drilling the holes for the bolts?


texts:
(1) I live in an older home with the kitchen "updated" in the 1990's. None of the countertop outlets are GFCI protected. Can they be properly wired with a GFCI outlet at the beginning of the wiring and then wiring several of the following outlets with ordinary outlets?

(2) In the garage which was wired God knows when, there are no GFCI outlets. I have the same question regarding protecting outlets with a GFCI outlet at the beginning and then feeding the remaining outlets from the GFCI load terminals. This would include outlets near the washing maching, the dryer and the water heater which seem to be fed from an outlet behind a freezer (mentioned in question 3). On a separate circuit are outlets at a work table and I need to know if each of these have to be GFCI protected.

(3) In the garage there is a virtually unmovable freezer. If a GFCI outlet were required it would be night onto impossible to reset the outlet if it trips. Is this appliance required to be GFCI protected?

(4) In a garden is each outlet required to be GFCI even if they are "downstream" from a GFCI outlet? And how many outlets "downstream" of a GFCI outlet are permitted as being protected, if this is allowed?

I do know that the tamper resistant GFCI outlets are now required despite that the big box store still sell GFCIs which are not tamper resistant.

Would appreciate knowledgeable answers.


texts: Is standing water at bottom of dishwasher normal?

texts:
Is standing water at the bottom of dishwasher normal? Is this to keep up seal pressure?
I want to make sure this is not unsafe.


texts: Do I need to tape inside corners where tile will be set on one wall?

texts: I am planning on tiling a Denshield wall which is surrounded by two finished drywall walls (inner corners). Do I need to tape the edges, or am I ok with a bead of silicone?


texts:
I need to fix a broken ball valve (luckily the valve doesn't leak until I turn it on) that runs to an outside faucet. Also, all of these pipes are CPVC.

When I looked at replacing it, they seemed to have gone a roundabout way of doing it.  Can I route it differently?

Current Configuration:

Another View:

Proposed Configuration:

I prefer to run it straight up and to just put a 90 on the other side of the beam (ie don't go through the beam).

Will this cause pressure issues (either through the outside faucet or
the rest of the house)?
Why did they do this?


texts:
I would like to know what is this valve for? I'm guessing it may be water, is that right? The valve is located in a flat in the wall.

side question

Shall I move it from time to time so it doesn't get stuck? I was told it may happen.


texts:
I have an outdoor BBQ Island that has a grill and refrigerator installed in it. The Island is made out of 5 3/4" concrete block with wood top and tile on top of that.  Right now I have a A/V Receiver sitting on top of the bar, but was thinking I could use the space in between the fridge cut-out and grill to cut a hole and install an acrylic box with shelves for the receive and any other AV equipment.

The space between the fridge and grill is 34" wide and 31 5/8" from ground to tile. The receiver I have is 17"x 10.5"x 5.5". I was thinking the cutout should be 20" wide x 16" tall. This would leave 7" on each side. is that enough support?

Fridge on left, Grill on right
[img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4744/39517334044_0a8196b85a_k.jpg[/img]

Grill removed to show the thickness of the concrete block.  Dont mind the rat mess
[img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/26355751828_5039ff1ad8_k.jpg[/img]

If I was to cut the hole, could I use a angle grinder with concrete diamond blade?


texts: Pipe cleaning machine without guide hose - how to prevent tile and furniture damage?

texts:
Looking for a pipe cleaning machine, I see only the very expensive ones with a guide hose ("Spiralschutzschlauch") that will protect the bathroom from fast-rotating spiral ends (2.5 - 5 m!). In contrast, the medium-priced ones do not seem to have such a guide hose.
Needless to say, that for occasional home use, I cannot spent >> $ 1000, just to get a simple plastic hose with attachment to the machine.
Question: How would one prevent vast damage of tiles and furniture without sucha guide hose, when the spring is spinning quite fast? Has someone attached a kind of self-made guide hose?
Example with guide hose: >> $ 1000
Edit: I removed the brandname and link and blacked out the (hardly readable) name on the device.

Example without guide hose: ~ $ 200
(at least a guide hose is never depicted or mentioned in a variety of similar machines in this price range from different manufacturers and on different online stores - in case someone obtained such a machine around $200 with guide hose, please let me know - yes/no, acc. to guidelines no brandname needed)

Edit: as requested, I removed the brand names. I am not looking for shopping recommendations (or even want to advertise) - I simply want to know how to deal with such a type of mashine without causing damage, therefore I put the (unaltered) question in bold face and addedthe 2nd part of the title. Since there are lots of them sold from a variety of brands, I guess there is some trick.
I am also happy for "alternative" answers that demonstrate that a different approach is equally or more effective but cheaper, if based on evidence and not personal opinion only.


texts: gas fireplace main burner wont light but pilot will light

texts: gas fireplace has switch on side of frame and it looks like a millivolt switch which goes down to gas valve and also a plug which I beleives runs the fan. Now when I depress the pilot switch the pilot lights then I hold down for a minute then when I let up to turn it to on the flame goes out.


texts: Breakfast bar. How should it have been done?

texts: We have just moved in a new apartment. It's a rental but it's a new luxury condominium and nobody lived in this place before us. Today I noticed something weird in our kitchen. The breakfast bar is not resting on the brackets and the top only seems to be attached to the side with some silicone seal. Obviously the brackets bit has to be fixed but before I kick a fuss about the attachment of the top to the leg/side, can someone confirm if this is safe or should there be some metal brackets there? The picture shows the bar seam from underneath. I hope you can ignore the kitchen reflecting from the leg/side. I have a very active kid and wouldn't want this to land on her.


texts: Should exterior receptacles be on a separate circuit from interior receptacles?

texts:
For some reason, I thought I remembered reading in the 2011 or 2014 NEC that exterior receptacles/lights need to be on a separate branch circuit than one powering interior receptacles/lights, but now I cannot find any reference. Am I misremembering?

I plan to run a separate circuit for the exterior receptacles so I can turn them  off when I am not using them, but I would prefer to tap off of interior lighting circuits to power the outdoor lighting fixtures for convenience if possible.


texts: What is a good duct tape for cold weather?

texts:
I want to keep a roll of duct tape in my car for emergencies. I am in NY and some winter days are below freezing. I found an "all weather" duct tape that has a min hold temperature of 25F but min application temperature of 50F. I have been unable to find many other duct tapes min application temperatures. I wrote the 'Duck' company that makes duct tapes and they told me the tape with the lowest minimum application temperature is 50F and that adhesives just don't work well below that point.

Is there any duct tape that can be applied in cold weather? What tape do you guys use in cold weather?


texts: Can I add a framing block along a cable to meet stapling code requirements?

texts: My question is about stapling wire. I came up short on a 12/2 romex run so I cannot staple it to the stud where the outlet box is. If I sister a short 2x4 to the stud, that will give me just enough slack to staple the romex. Would an inspector have a problem with this?


texts:
I framed a new wall over an existing wall to get a nice, rectangular recessed area for a projector screen in my basement. Here’s the wall prior to spackling:

The old wall (back wall of recessed area) is extremely bowed, and so I read that I could use a drywall darby (and a lot of mud) to level it out. While I used powdered setting type mud on all my taped joints, I wound up using pre-mixed all purpose joint compound for leveling, mostly out of convenience. I realized that this would result in some cracking, and it certainly did. It’s also taking a really long time to dry, but I’ve got time.
While I believe/hope that the cracking will be fixed with lots of iterations of sanding/spackling, I’m more concerned with the left-most wall (pictured below), as I got a bit carried away with the drywall darby and obsessed over a quarter-inch gap in-between the left and the right vertical corner beads (I likely built them up too much).

In retrospect, I feel as though I should have just installed quarter-inch pieces of drywall  and feathered them in.
Questions:

Should I continue down my current path and with spackling/sanding until everything is nice and smooth? Or should I try and remove all of that dried mud somehow, at least on the left wall? I’d really like to avoid taking down any drywall panels at this point.
Do I need to prime the wall with anything different than the standard, run of the mill paint primer considering all of the joint compound? I know that skimming with thin layers can provide a really smooth finish, so I’m hoping that’s still the case with thicker coats. For the sake of same texture everywhere, I’ve tried skimming the top and bottom pieces, as well as the inside frame pieces...

Try not to judge me too hard, and I’d appreciate any help!


texts: How does fresh air get inside a house with central heating other than through cracks of door or window on a cold winter day

texts:
I'm not sure how fresh air, or oxygen, gets inside my house other than through cracks of window or door on a cold winter day when the central heating system is on.

I have a pipe that is coming from outside in my basement and delivers air to my basement (there is no fan in it or anything just a pipe by itself). And I think that is meant for providing  fresh oxygen for the gas furnace to burn. However, since it is not directly connected to the furnace air intake vent ( a white J-shaped pipe), there will be some outside fresh air delivered to my basement, but in no way is that an effective way of delivering fresh air to the whole house.

So I'm asking this question because sometimes I feel suffocated even when the central fan is on in my house, and I have already positioned myself to be near the vents to make sure there are air flowing around my head. I can't really open the window because my window is facing a neighbor who constantly burns his wood in his old fashioned furnace when produces black smoke that blows towards my window. Our basement outside air intake place is somewhat more discrete, though. Which is why I'm not smelling smoke when all windows are closed.

So I'm asking, is there no other way of getting fresh air inside my fresh air, by using the furnace? Or is an average house supposed to be have fresh air intake systems?  I'm in no way an HVAC expert, I might be making wrong presumptions in my question, but any help would be appreciated :)


texts: How can I fit an opener for a rollup door into my metal shed?

texts: I had a metal shop built and I would like to add a garage door opener for the roll-up doors but because of limited room between the top of the roll-up door and the roof, I am not sure if one will fit. I don't currently have a good picture of the issue but with the picture provide does anyone have any ideas? I was planning on mounting it vertically where the motor would be above the roll-up door but I think I don't have enough room. Any ideas, Suggestions?


texts:
We have a Carrier 58STA/STX Furnace that is only short cycling in Heat and not A/C. When it cuts off it is throwing Code 33 which is pointing to the following issues:

Dirty Filter or Restricted Duct System - Replaced Filters & Using a MERV 2, still trips
Loose Blower Wheel - Removed today and was not loose/excessive play
Defective Switch or Connections
Defective Blower Motor or Capacitor - Capacitor was at 50% of nominal, replaced and still occurs, have not done anything with blower motor.
Inadequate Combustion Air Supply (Flame Rollout Switch Open) - Flame Rollout Switch stays closed
Restricted Vent Sizing - Spec'd to House
Excessive Wind - Happens on Windy or Calm Days

If I either remove the filter or remove the blower access cover it does not throw the code.


texts:
This is under a bathroom sink in the house we recently purchased.  It was likely done to limit the vertical space taken up by the P trap.

Is it likely to cause a problem, and/or is it a code violation (US, Oregon)?


texts: Three way switch wiring problems (1 light, 2 switches)

texts:
I am installing a ceiling light that runs off of 2 switches. The ceiling box has 2 white and 2 black wires. Three are neutral and only the one black is hot.
I have tried every combination of the wires, Black to black, white to white and black with 2 whites etc.
At one point, the fixture lit up but would not turn off. I have a copper wire from the fixture grounded to the ceiling box. Please help.


texts: Are curtains effective for keeping the room warm?

texts:
I live in a rented apartment and I am trying to find solutions to keep the heat in. The apartment has several big windows (the 'living room' has one wall that is 80% windows) and I have to run the heat a lot to keep it warm inside.

Do curtains really make a significant difference? I read through other posts, including about insulation film, but I'd like to avoid that if possible. If it is the best solution in your eyes though I'll take it into account.


texts: How can I locate the entrance of a wasp nest, and prevent wasps from entering?

texts:
While I was out gardening, I saw a wasp fly through a small hole beside my basement window and into my basement. Then later, I saw five more enter through two other holes (two in part of my AC, three in my fireplace exhaust area.)

The exhaust area looks like this, but with four small holes in the metal plates where it attaches to the wall. That's where the wasps go in.

I taped up the basement hole as a temporary stop-gap. My questions are:

What should I use as a permanent seal?
Should I seal all the wasp entrance holes?

More importantly, what do they want and how do I get rid of them? I assume there's something in the house (food or a nest) that they're after. I can't find it, and don't know how to look for it.

I would like prevention (no more wasps coming) over protection (spraying all the entrance holes with bug killer) if possible.


texts: Cast Iron drainpipe - which bolt should i buy to replace sheared one?

texts:
Rusty pipe alert:

I sheared off one of two bolts taking an inspection plate off a 40 year old cast iron drainpipe. It is M8 an about 15mm long. I'm supposed to get something that's with 0.15 on a Galvanic corrosion scale, right?  You can't get cast iron bolts, so that means wrought aluminum or wrought alloys I think. Amazon has things that are titanium alloy, but I think that would share the Galvanic corrosion of titanium rather than the alu/alloy I need, and therefore be too far away from that of cast iron. Does it really matter for a 40 year old drainpipe?

Oh and the drain pipe wasn't blocked. The snake think I had went straight up easily enough. I need a different one to go down, as there's a right angle involved.


texts:
Please identify this ceiling texture
Thank you!


texts: Microbubbles on kitchen cabinet doors using HVLP sprayer, how to fix the issue?

texts:
We're trying to paint our kitchen cabinet doors white but keep getting a ton of microbubbles in the process.

We have primed the doors twice using B-I-N Shellac-Based White Interior Primer and Sealer and sanded them down smooth. We dusted them off and also used a rag to get rid of any missed dust particles.

We're using an HVLP sprayer to apply the paint.

At first we tried BEHR White Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel Alkyd Interior/Exterior Paint, and had the bubbling issue. We switched to Benjamin Moore Advanced, and still the same bubbling issue. We did notice that the paint in the can itself had these tiny bubbles...so we let it sit overnight. Same issue the next day. The paint also didn't smooth out as it dried.

Any suggestions on what might be causing this and how to fix it?

Thank you

This picture shows the resulting tiny craters from the bubbles popping and bubbles that haven't popped:

We have tried increasing the temperature to 72F / 22C, increasing the humidity by evaporating a qt of water, increasing/reducing the paint flow, and thinning with water.