texts:
I am replacing an existing outlet with a GFCI outlet.  The existing outlet functioned fine, but I want GCFI protection on the circuit.  It appears to be your standard daisy-chained outlet box - 2 black hots, 2 white neutrals, 2 bare copper grounds.  Both grounds are bonded to the metal junction box.

I'm using my multimeter to find which wires are the line to the breaker box, and which wires continue downstream to feed the rest of the circuit.  I disconnected the old outlet and I'm measuring the wires looking for 120V.  Hot 1 to Neutral 1 measures 120V.  Okay, I found my line wires.  So I connect Hot 1 and Neutral 1 to the GFCI outlet line terminals, and Hot 2 and Neutral 2 to the load terminals.  I turn the breaker on and the GFCI trips right away.  Okay, time to double check my work!

I remove the outlet from the the circuit.  I double checked and there's still 120V between Hot 1 and Neutral 1.  But...there's also 120V between Hot 1 and Neutral 2.  No volts between Hot 2 and any neutral.

Why is there voltage via Neutral 2 when it should be disconnected from the circuit with the outlet removed?  There should be no path via Neutral 2 back to the breaker box, so I shouldn't see 120V, correct?  I think I have a ground-neutral short somewhere, or perhaps the neutrals from 2 circuits joined together somewhere.  Is there another scenario I'm not thinking of?


texts: How to wire a three phase machine to a single phase plug?

texts:
The machine has five wires, three of which are live. I want to wire into a single phase supply using a three prong plug.

It powers a boiler and water pump (for an espresso machine: 220-240V, 50/60Hz, 0.190Mpa/0.65Mpa, 3000W).

The advice I received was to twist the three live wires together and wire them all to the one live prong.

The problem I have is that the the three together is to thick. Is there a way to do this?

Solution: what I found was a connector (not sure what it's called) big enough to take the three wires together with a single wire coming out the other side. Someone else suggested 'wrapping' two of the wires around the third.


texts: What are the optimal conditions to install a hardwood floor?

texts:
I'm going to be installing a Red Oak tongue-and-groove hardwood floor to save some money, but I've heard mixed advice on what time of the year a floor should be installed. I live in the northeast of the US, and so we have cold winters and hot summers.

From what I would imagine, there would be some shrinking and expansion of the wood. Could this damage the floor boards in any way if I put them in during the "wrong" season? When would the optimal time of the year (in terms of humidity and heat) to install a floor like the one I'm putting in?


texts: GE gas dryer noise - is this from motor?

texts: Hi I'm trying to fix my 13 year old dryer. It's started to have squeaking noise but I was able to fix that by replacing the front and rear bearing. Now it's starting to have this noise and I think this is possibly from the motor based on some search on the Internet. But the motor has no problem starting the spin at all, it starts as soon as I hit the switch. Can anyone confirm this is noise from the motor? The video has the recorded noise https://youtu.be/AzQQwjan0LQ Thanks much!


texts: Why is my A/C unit running when the heater runs?

texts:
So it finally got cold here in AZ. We switched our thermostat from A/C to Heat. Now for some reason when the electric heater runs, the A/C condenser unit outside kicks on too. This is our first winter here in the house. The vents do blow warm air, not hot, but warm.

Where do I start looking? Is it possible it is just a thermostat issue? or could it be a bigger problem?


texts: Upgrading thermostat: 2 baseboard heaters (6 wires)

texts:
I'm upgrading a thermostat, and the installation isn't quite as simple as I'd hoped. In this COVID era, I think I'd like to avoid having an electrician inside my home...
Some facts:

the circuit breaker box has 2 switches that are "tied" together. I think this means 240V.
the existing thermostat controls 2 baseboard heaters (one is longer than the other by ~30%)
inside the gang box, there are 3 cables, each with white, black, and ground wires.
the 3 ground wires are all twisted together
one of the cables coming in to the gang box (the middle one) looks different, it has yellow casing, and its wires are smaller gauge

The thermostat I'm replacing has 4 inputs: T1 and T2 (termed Black/Line) and L1 and L2 (termed Red/Load). I attached pictures of the existing thermostat (I haven't changed anything), but tracing the lines is a bit hard so here I'm writing it out too. These are currently connected by:

L1/Black/Line is connected to the top and middle blacks
L2/Black/Line is connected to the top and middle whites
T1/Red/Load is connected to the bottom black
T2/Red/Load is connected to the bottom white

So which one is the supply? The middle one perhaps because it's conspicuously different? The bottom one because it's connected differently?
The installation instructions for my new thermostat say:

Note: The supply and load wires are not interchangeable. If you are unsure which of the two wires is the supply or load wire, simply try one configuration.

Does that advice still apply when there are 3? I suppose I could pick 2 cables to figure it out and then add the 3rd.
I'm reluctant to turn the breaker back on and test voltages, but I do have a voltmeter and I think I could be careful enough to use it (but which pairs should I check?)
EDIT: I mixed up my L and T, now fixed. That is, it looks like two line wires are combined to create 240v and somehow one load wire is used for both heaters? Not sure if that makes sense or if I'm still mixing something up.


texts: What could cause a clicking sound in an underfloor heating controller?

texts:
I have a underfloor heating system installed in my apartment.

Each room has a Uponor T-37 thermostat, hooked up to C-35 controller.

The system is about four years old and recently I have noticed a regular clicking sound from the relay in the controller unit.

At thermostat side, when I turn the dial so I can heat into the room, the LED comes on, then after 5 seconds or so it turns off. The light then comes back on again after a half-second or so. This cycle repeats, and seems to happen simultaneously at each thermostat in every room/zone.

I assume this is bad for my boiler/heating system because it's receiving a command to supply heat on/off every few seconds.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

I've tried to turn-off power to heating system and boiler for a few hours, thinking it might reset any fault.

I was worried about taking off the cover off the control unit incase there maybe a danger of a shock. I removed the cover of the thermostat and noticed that as the LED switches off, it flashes rapidly.

I'm in the process of calling in a plumber/heating technician, but just thought I try and do my own research on the matter to see if there is an easy fix. Hoping it won't be an expensive repair.


texts:
I am installing a 50 amp power inlet box to backfeed my 12000W generator (it has 50amp outlet) into the house main circuit panel (with approved interlock kit..). The inlet box is a GE T050N, that only has punch outs on the bottom, and bottom of sides.
https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/b5/b535b44c-bc9b-47b8-ae55-7859edf6623d.pdf

See my installation zone in the picture below. I was thinking of putting the inlet box directly below the main panel and run 3/4" PVC conduit down from the main panel and into the lower right side of the inlet box.  I've been looking on the web for rules on proximity of the natural gas meter regulator to electrical boxes and couldnt find a consensus.  I live in Texas and local municipality has adopted 2018 version of Building code, NEC, etc.  Any issues with the proposed location? from what I've read on wire size, I need to use 6/3 UF or #8 THHN in the conduit, sound right?

Thank you for your advice


texts: Is it OK to install a TV mount when it can't be attached to a stud at all mount points?

texts:
I have a TV wall panel that can only reach two studs. I was wondering if it's fine to screw the left side and the center on studs, and have the right side anchored in the drywall.

My TV is 30lbs with the mount.

Also, the TV would be mounted a bit on the right of the TV mount. Does it matter if the weight is not 100% centered?


texts:
I'm trying to figure out where to connect a C wire from a thermostat to my furnace. I found this old post for the same furnace type (Trane XE70), but it seems as though a red wire goes to the terminal the other poster had a white wire go to. This made me too nervous to try it without inquiring with more knowledgeable people.

The wire bundle with the blue wire is the one coming from the thermostat and the wire bundle with the wrapped unused green is coming from the AC unit (I believe). Any suggestions on which terminal would be a common ground? Is there an easy way I can test with a multimeter?

EDIT: Requested wiring diagram for the model.

Thanks!
- Sincerely, DIY Noob


texts: How can I add a second light to a circuit?

texts: I have recessed lights that are controlled by two switches. They used a black, red and white wire for each switch to a junction box then used a 14-2 wire to the recessed lights. My question is how do I add another recessed light to it and can I use a 12-2 wire or do I have to use 14-2.


texts: Need info on block for a vinyl storage shed

texts: I am putting up a 10 w by 8 deep vinyl shed. My intent is to build the base out of concrete block. I am want to put a solid base of block. I am then going to put 1/2 in thick pressure treated sheets of plywood on top and anchor the bldg to the plywood. My main questions are. DO I need I anchor the wood to anything? And how do I figure out how many block do I need for a solid foundation,


texts:
I would like to put a fan in a 2 car garage woodshop (it's getting awfully hot to work in in the summer). I was thinking something like this:

http://www.airkinglimited.com/page/industrial-ceiling-mount-fans.html

http://www.airkinglimited.com/page/industrial-wall-mount-fans.html

The prices seem marginally more expensive for the bigger motor and the bigger blades, so perhaps a 1/3 HP 30" variety.

However, I have no idea how to select a placement. Why would I choose ceiling mount vs wall mount? Like is there an "ideal" place to mount the fan? If wall mounted - high or low on the wall? Near a corner or in the middle of the wall? If ceiling mounted, near the center of the room? Corners? Wall centers?

Also, I assume oscillating is "better" than fixed (again, the price is only marginally more)? Is just "better airflow"? Are there any downsides?

Last gotcha - I have a door to an air conditioned house. Would keeping that door open while working (in a further attempt to cool the garage) be useful? If so, would it change the placement choice?

Any tips would be appreciated!


texts: An outdoor porch light has SPT Wire and the wire to which it is attached is an NM WIRE.  How do I know which wire goes to white & which goes with black or does it not matter.


texts: Best way to remove old paint from door hinges

texts:
I've got a number of nice heavy brass hinges with splotches of paint on them.  Unfortunately this paint appears to be decades old and is rock-hard.  It appears to be old oil-based paint but I'm not sure.

The most visible place where paint was applied is the decorative pins that have ball shaped ends.  Scraping or sanding without scratching the brass seems impossible.  So that leaves soaking in some sort of stripping agent.  Are there any concerns with using such products with brass or any specific products and/or approaches recommended?


texts:
I have a ceiling that literally cannot be drilled into. An experienced handyman couldn't do it with high quality masonry bits.

I'm wondering if there is any easy way to reinforce a curtain rod, so that it will span a longer distance without slouching.

There isn't much room on either side.


texts:
The ice maker line to my refrigerator currently has no shutoff valve and I'd like to add one but I can't figure out what size the connector is. I purchased a 1/4 inch valve since the ice maker connector I have says 1/4 FCM on it but it did not fit. It looks more like 1/8 inch, but a 1/8 inch valve doesn't fit either, although it is very close. Where can I find information about water pipe sizes, there must be some standard?

My fridge is a GE CFCP1NIZSS:
http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SpecPage&Sku=CFCP1NIZSS

The copper water line I am connecting it to has the exact same measurement as the fridge.

This valve was extremely close in size, and just barely didn't fit:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C0J3XI/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details

UPDATE:

Okay I thought that searching the internet for 1/4" OD Valve Male Female would get me what I need but I am getting no results so I've reopened the question! Can anyone give me a web link to a product that will fit? I've added a photo of the current connection where I'd like to add the valve. Thanks!


texts: How to: Change a bulb in my shower fixture/glass won't come out/down

texts: have a light fixture in the shower with a (hopefully just) burnt out bulb. I got the metal cage (held on by two screws) off but can't get the glass cover off. The whole thing rotates 360 so it's not screwed into a box or the ceiling. Might be springs or something holding the fixture base up There appears to be a rubber ring around it but I'm not sure I should get at it with anything. The glass doesn't move at all. I can hold the metal base and give the glass all my might, doesn't budge at all. Google was of no help Pics attached. Thanks in advance.


texts: How can I remove styrofoam bits from my equipment?

texts: Is there a way to remove Styrofoam bits from my equipment efficiently?


texts:
This fiba tape stuff protrudes from my drywall. Are you supposed to sand it? I don't see the use of it for patching a hole if it's thicker than my texture. Looks bad.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/FibaTape-300-ft-Self-Adhesive-Joint-Tape/50183377?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA--Paint--WallRepair-_-50183377:FibaTape&CAWELAID=&kpid=50183377&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=102

Or is this user error?

Thanks


texts: Should I use caulk to fix cracking grout in a shower?

texts: We had our contractor tile in the window in our shower. It started cracking almost immediately, and he's filled in the cracks a couple times. It keeps cracking. I assume due to the temperature differences between the shower and the window, and the grout isn't elastic. Can I use a tile caulk to file the crack? Or should I just keep filling the cracks with caulk?


texts: How can I quiet my dryer vent from the outside?

texts:
I have a Whirlpool electric clothes dryer and it is under 5 years old.
 When it is drying it makes a "whirling sound" that is especially loud from the outside where it is vented. My neighbor is constantly complaining about it. We shoved a large rock up in the vent from the outside and that helped a lot, but the clothes did not dry properly as they should have on the normal setting with the normal amount of clothes that I always dry.


texts: ACE900 KBD prepaid electricity meter - no power on second circuit

texts:
I just bought a flat in Scotland, which has ACE900 KBD electric meter.  Naturally, the mains power into the flat goes into the meter, from which there are two live outputs feeding two consumer units - one covers all the standard stuff (lights, outlets, power shower, etc) and the other smaller CU covering the electrical heating (there is no gas in the building, so everything is electric).
While lights, outlets, etc work, there is no power going into the secondary circuit and thus there is no heating in the flat. This is bad, considering the climate in Scotland.
Ideally, I wish I could sort it out myself, of course. I know my way around electricity and can deal with most of the usual stuff, however the meter is sealed and obviously I am not allowed to break the seal. So, is this something that is controlled from the outside or do I need to call the power company to come sort this out?


texts: PLC-Lighting Control-Plug n Play Operation with Relay

texts:
I am trying to build up a home automation system(retrofit) with existing conventional switches(230VAC).

But I am looking for automation system without replacing existing conventional switches along with controller digital output. In this case I need to control from both possible outputs. i.e either of command should turn ON/OFF the lights.

This is how fibaro zwave relays operate. FYI...

In simple terms, just connect this fibaro switch with existing switch then you can control the load from both existing switch and controller location.

Same way,please help me out to bring this to home automation PLC.


texts: Water spills from kitchen seep to downstairs

texts:
Noticed some water in basement in the middle of the floor. I looks to be seepage from a water spill in the kitchen from earlier (water must have gone further back under the fridge than what was cleaned up with a towel).
It has dried enough on the ceiling that I couldn't pinpoint exactly where it seeped through; however based on the floor spot and the spill location above, it came down near one of the pot lights. The lights are not live yet; however, I don't want to have to worry about this for any future spills that aren't fully soaked up.
The upstairs is old hardwood. The subfloor is planks (not plywood).
Is there anything from below I can do? Or a seleant for the hardwood?  Obviously the easiest solution is to clean up all of the spill, but looking for a more thorough solution. Ideas?


texts: How should I use fiberglass batts to insulate between floor joists over a stone basement?

texts:
I have an old home built on a stone foundation.  The stone foundation is solid, as well as the floor joists. I run a dehumidifier in the basement full time, to keep the air moisture low.  There is never any water in the basement.  The floor is dirt with a covering of gravel. There is currently some fiberglass insulation between the floor joists (installed incorrectly, paper backing facing down), and a foam insulating board nailed to the bottom of the floor joists.

I was advised to flip the fiberglass over, so that the paper backing is facing the living space, instead of facing the basement.  If I am going to do that, should I do anything else with the fiberglass at the same time? Should I put plastic sheeting in? Should I wrap each length of fiberglass in plastic, tape it shut, making a bag of insulation in each floor joist void?


texts: Which color wire do I connect the switch to on a power cord?

texts:
I am trying to add an on/off switch to a power cord.

i opened up the cord and there is a black and white wires in there. I know that the switch will work on either one, but is there a better wire to choose from safety's perspective ?


texts: What maintenance can I perform on my GROHE 33 755 KD0 Ladylux Cafe Pull-Out kitchen faucet?

texts:
We moved into our house shortly after the previous owners installed this faucet:

We've had it for about 5 years now and the water flow is severely limited.  Also, it takes forever for the hot water, but when I remove the faucet head it seems normal.  I was just going to replace the faucet head, but a new one is $200.  There's no instructions or documentation for the faucet, so I don't know if I'm supposed to be cleaning out the faucet head.

Can somebody either advise what I can do, or tell me where I can find some documentation online?  I checked Grohe's site but I can't find this specific model.


texts:
Hi,

I want to use the heating tape (constant wattage) and I was told that I should use RCD for the safety. I am new to RCD so I wanted to double-check if this is a correct way to wire the RCD with the power supply and the heating cable.
Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.


texts: What is this cable hanging against the outer wall?

texts:
We moved into our house within the past year. In the front of the house, underneath the staircase leading up to the front door, is a tied off cable that looks like this. Does anyone know what kind of cable it is or what purpose it might serve?

I attempted to point a non-contact voltage tester at the ends of the cable, but got nothing from it... but then again, it might be so shielded that nothing would happen.


texts:
First off, I am not very handy, and my husband is even less so.

We have lived in our house almost 2 years and it is 13 years old.  During the inspection, I believe the grout in the corners was cracking, so the seller's contractor fixed it. With what, I am not sure, but it matches the grout in color, while being softer than grout.

In the past few months, I noticed some dampness outside the shower, but I thought it was just related to kids taking showers and not being careful. Nope, not the problem. I discovered that the carpet near the shower was wet (see picture), so I investigated further. It appeared that the water was leaking at the joint where the shower door connects to the wall. It seemed to follow the grout line, then follow the baseboard to the doorway carpet.

I also took a look at the other side and found enough dampness to wet a paper towel after taking a shower.

Well, me being the unhandy person that I am, thought maybe a little silicone in the corners might fix the problem. After letting the shower dry for a day or so, that's what I did. I waited over 24 hours to let it cure, and then I tried the shower out. Not as much water as before, but definitely still getting wet. The grout was dark, indicating that perhaps the water was seeping through the grout.

I took a look at the condition of the inside of the shower and discovered what looked like gray caulk peeling in the corner. My first thought was to put some silicone on the corners on the inside, but if the water is coming through the grout, then silicone will not fix the problem.

Does the shower need to be recaulked in that area? Will silicone help? Is there something else that needs to be done? I suppose I really just need to call someone who knows what they are doing and have them fix it, but I don't like not knowing what I need when I call someone because I don't want to be tricked into having more work than actually needs to be done.

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!!


texts: Splitting service to a new power meter. I just cut the wires coming out of the meter box and now the grounding cable is 2' short of the grounding rod.  Must the ground wire be continuous from the panel box, through the meter to the grounding rod?


texts: Would there be a problem installing 20A outlets/receptacles on a 15A circuit?

texts:
I am upgrading some 15A outlets on a 15A circuit. Can I install 20A outlets instead of 15A outlets? If not, why not?
Will a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit pass a home inspection? Or, is it not allowed?

I'm going to be plugging in a 14000 BTU portable air conditioner and it just seems like a good idea to have a 20A outlet to reduce heating in the outlet, even if the circuit is rated only for 15A.
NOT a duplicate of Would there be a problem installing 20A switches on a 15A circuit?, because I'm asking about outlets, NOT switches.
I don't want to violate any laws either or have problems when I go to sell the house. I am located in California, in the United States. The house is an HOA-controlled condo, but I own the condo. The outlets I'm adding will be in the garage, likely on a NON-GFCI line--I'll be tapping a new outlet off of the house's interior hallway, through the wall, into the garage for a single new receptacle in the garage. The circuit is rated at 15A. I was thinking of putting a 20A outlet. I'm not sure, but maybe this is supposed to be a GFCI-outlet too, since it's in the garage--not sure.
Update:
This Amazon product review seems relevant: it indicates putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit is a code violation (emphasis added):

This was titled and advertised as a 15 amp device, but is actually a 20 amp device. As such, it's against safety code to use if you are on a 15A circuit. I had to return this item and purchase a 15 amp version, as installation of this would have caused me to fail inspection.

19 May 2021: I just saw this related question too:

Is it OK to have a 20 Amp receptacle on a circuit with 12 AWG wiring and a 15 Amp breaker?


texts:
I've sanded down a wooden worktop and I'm attempting to re-coat it. I've done 5 thin coats of oil so far, a day between each, but it's still quite dull compared to previously. How many coats should I need to get a good finish? I've heard it needs a lot, but how many is a lot?

Also, what kind of oil is best to use? I've been using special Worktop Oil. It's quite expensive but is it just a gimmick? Am I just as well off using a generic teak, linseed or danish oil?


texts: Is flashing required to attach a landing to the exterior of a house

texts: I will have a landing running from the back door, then four or five steps to ground. Do I need to place metal flashing where the landing attaches to the house, or some other means of protecting the house from moisture intrusion?  The landing and stairs will be of poured concrete.


texts: None of the outlets in the kitchen are working

texts: The other day I switched on the garbage disposal and now none of the outlets in the kitchen work. This circuit is GFCI protected from the panel but the GFCI breaker in the panel is not tripping. When I test the outlets with the breaker on they show hot on the hot and neutral sides. I have replaced the outlet feeding the garbage disposal but this did not work. I have also replaced the switch controlling the disposal but still nothing works. I tested the wires at the breaker and they appear normal. This condition exists from the first line on the circuit to the last. Does anybody know what could be going on here?


texts: How do I protect the painted finish on my fiberglass door?

texts:
I just purchased a new fiberglass front door. It's a beautiful door, factory painted, but less than 24 hours later, we're noticing that the paint can easily be scratched off, and the rain splashing off the deck has made the paint bubble up.

I've called the store where we made the purchase, and we can return it. There are other issues we had with this door, and we've received some discounts, so the door has ended up being very reasonable. It's such a beautiful door that I really want to keep it. But what can I do to protect the paint? The paint can be scraped off with a fingernail. Would I need to totally strip the paint off and repaint it? Is there some sort of protective finish that will work without having to strip it?


texts: Are my wires in this junction box too short?

texts: This my first attempt at a junction box .  I am kind of worried the wires are too short.  They are all in the push connectors. Is this safe?


texts: How should I install a bathroom exhaust fan in a 2nd floor bathroom?

texts:
I would like to install a bathroom exhaust fan in my 2nd floor bathroom, due to moisture issues. There is no existing fan, only a light fixture. There are two exterior walls in this room and the attic above is finished.

I have considered venting straight out through the wall to the exterior, but I am unsure if that is the best option because this would mean I'd have to open up a large portion of the ceiling.


texts: Is it OK to nail 1/2" plywood straight to the pocket-door box?

texts: The guy I hired to frame for a new pocket-door, mounted the pocket-door box on the top (to a second-story joist) and on the bottom (toe-nailed to the floor). When I asked him to install some studs on both sides of the door, he said I don't need them because I can nail my wall material (1/2" plywood) right into the horizontal planks of the pocket-door box. I have a feeling that would be wrong, or at least not up to Code. What do you think? Any advice is very much appreciated. I am new to this, just learning the terms. But it really didn't seem safe..


texts: I want to replace a block in my fuse panel that broke when I pulled a fuse holder out. I have placed my method alongside a pic of the panel. I am wondering if this seems reasonable to do or if I am missing something I may have to remove also. There is no wiring connected to that block at all. Thanks


texts: Is there any considerable advantage to a forced air-to-air heat exchanger over just cleverly positioned positive pressure forced air intake?

texts:
This is from a typical North Western European housing perspective where most (older) buildings will not have forced air/AC/heat pumps etc. for various reasons, and most houses are only heated using gas powered central heating with water based radiators for transport. This means if you want fresh air in winter, you're opening a window and wasting energy in the air that was heated.
I understand the workings of forced air-to-air heat exchangers and how they can warm or cool fresh air coming in and how that could improve the energy loss situation. My question is, is it that much better than just forcing fresh air in to mingle with the stale air and having the over-pressure leak out, perhaps at the opposite end of a room or low to the ground where it is colder?
Of course I understand that you will lose some efficiency over a heat exchanger, as you will be leaking a mix of air containing also a lot of stale energy out that has not properly transferred energy. But is it that much worse considering the added complexity of a heat exchanger? Any other downsides/advantages I should be aware of?


texts: How can I repaint an antique piece of furniture that was varnished?

texts: I want to repaint/varnish a piece of furniture, but have no idea if I can use a similar paint color, or if I need to find the exact type of varnish used. Is there a big difference in varnish vs paint?


texts: How do I frame a room inside a garage so that the room's ceiling will not touch the garage ceiling?

texts:
I am considering building a small 6 x 9 room inside my garage to use as an office. However, I do not want to remove the garage door opener unit nor the tracks the door slides on because we will want to continue using that door for access to the garage.

I have seen a few resources with guides for framing but all show the top plate of the room being secured to an existing ceiling. In my case I want the ceiling to be independent.

Also, the height from the floor to the garage door slider tracks is 8 feet. With some play I am thinking I will be OK with a 7 foot ceiling but I am not too thrilled with a ceiling that low. Any creative recommendations for dealing with garage door sliders?


texts: confirming LED driver input and output requirements

texts:
The LED lights on our kitchen range hood have flickered out and I'm trying to  order replacements, but not from the manufacturer, who unfortunately have none in stock and are waiting for a shipment of parts from overseas. No telling how long that may take at present. The LED lights, when turned on, are very faintly lit and there's a high-pitched whining buzz, like a mosquito near your ear, so I am also going to replace the LED driver.  Under the present circumstances, technicians at the company are not available to answer questions and the customer service rep who is answering the phone and responding to emails knows even less than I do about LEDs.

With the multimeter set to AC (~), and the Range set to no fractional decimal positions, and the display reading 0000, I put the leads on the motherboard's two prongs where the black and white wires from the LED driver attach to it.

The reading is 121.

I switch the multimeter to DC mode (---), and test again, and the reading is 0000.

If I understand correctly, the LED driver should be one with full AC line input and of the "constant current" variety.  But how to determine the output requirements for the driver?

There are two (2) LED lights, each with this spec:

Max power: 1.5W and Input: <= 12V, Frequency: 50-60Hz.

Would a driver with the following specs be sufficient to run those two LED lights?

Input Voltage (VAC) 100 ~ 204VAC
Input Frequency (Hz)    50/60 Hz
Output Voltage (VDC)    4 ~ 12 VDC
Output Current (Constant)   350mA
Output Power (W)    1 ~ 3 W


texts: Why is the joint compound cracking around a repaired patch in my ceiling?

texts:
Backstory: We had a leak in our roof that damaged some of the ceiling drywall. When we put new drywall up, the pre-existing drywall "sagged" a bit lower than the fresh piece that was screwed into the ceiling joists. Because of this, I layered the joint compound so that the two would be as level as possible.

In the latest coat of joint compound, the compound is showing small cracks that I assume happen while it is drying (and shrinking?).

I've read elsewhere not to use sandpaper but some sort of sanding sponge. Confirm or Deny?
Do I need to use a different product to fill these gaps?
Would this be caused by too thick of a coat of joint compound?
What is the best way to build it up so that next time I can do this right?


texts:
I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I am interested in any brush washing tips that help prolong the lifetime of my brushes.

Water-based paints are easy, but with paints that require thinners / white spirits things are a little trickier.

My personal method is to pour some white spirit into a small container, thoroughly 'swish' the brush around, then rinse it with hot soapy water. I repeat this around 3 times, with a clean tub of white spirits each time.

However, despite this, my brushes are still a little stiff when I come to use them next, and do not deliver the same even finish they did when new.

Any tips?


texts: Is this a stress fracture or natural cedar characteristics on a swing set?

texts:
This a 3 year old (lightly used) weather exposed swing set.

Should I be concerned about the cracks?


texts: Installing a dedicated hot water recirc line and pump

texts:
I'm going to re-plumb  my house. It's a 3 bed, 2 bath house. All the plumbing is on the main level, and the basement is partially finished. I'm renovating down in the basement and decided while I was doing drywall work, I might as well cut in to the ceiling and replace the polybutylene pipes with PEX. I got 2 quotes from plumbers and decided I'd be better off to do it myself. I'm very handy and work at a building supply store so I can get a great price on materials. I'm also planning on adding a second shower head in the Master bath when I renovate the bathroom next year.

I was wanting to look at adding in a recirc pump for the hot water. Since I am in the space between the floors, I would do a dedicated hot water return. The hot water heater is in the basement. Let's say the 2 shower heads are approx 10 ft above the tank (if that matters). I'm on a well with a pressure tank and a 40/60 pressure switch.

My questions are this:
With my current layout, should I plumb the return line as 2 different zones? What parts am I going to need to do this right (including pump size recommendations).


texts: How big of access panel for DWV cleanout

texts: I have a 3" (I believe, maybe 4") DWV line that is running behind a basement wall.  There is a cleanout that I need to get access to and the cleanout is not flush with the wall.  I see that there are access panels by Oatey like the one below.  The question is 1) How large does this need to be (is 8" x 8" sufficient) and once the door is open, 2) how do you unscrew the cleanout cap since it's not flush with the wall and 3) How do you keep the materials to be cleaned out from falling behind the wall?  The plug is maybe 2" or so behind the drywall FWIW


texts: Short run of propane to stove and tankless WH

texts: I have a small stove with a propane conversion kit and a 3gpm propane tankless water heater. This is for a small MIL suite ~650 sqft. Both the stove and the water heater are on the same exterior wall, about 6ft apart.  The wall has no windows or other openings. I want to place 2 20lb BBQ tanks outside on that wall. I've been searching for information about connecting a changeover valve like used in RVs to them.  From there, a short run of black pipe, through the wall to street elbows and a shut-off valve at each appliance. Both appliances have 1/2" connections.  I can't seem to find specific information about connecting the tanks to the black pipe. What do I use?  I am going to have this pressure tested and inspected after I'm done.


texts: How to properly dispose of empty fire extingusher?

texts:
Bought a small home fire extinguisher, and had to use it for a small stove fire. The needle is in the middle of 'empty', (not all the way, but it appears that the fire extinguisher is of the one time use type, and is non-rechargeable) and the label says to discard if the needle points to empty.

I don't just want to chuck a fairly large metal tank into the weekly trash, even fully discharged does that present a danger? Or, is that the proper method?


texts: drywall gap again after foundation repair

texts: My foundation (crawl space) was repaired recently, huge job, home not level. There had been a gap in a corner where the sheetrock had dropped down but that side (plus adjoining 90 degree) was reframed & much bracing added everywhere. That gap was closed where the 2 sides meet, but  3 months later it is there again, slight. I KNOW the foundation is solid now (home is on a hill but ostensibly solid), so why would this gap reappear? It's not larger than 1/4 inch. Is this normal settling? Would a patch job take care of it? I don't think my home is moving but I'm concerned. Contractor has since moved so I can't call him. It was a highly professional job but ... ? thank you. (I live in an HOA and I don't know if the ground is shifting? in which case it would  be on them to examine the land ...)


texts: HO fluorescents not working after switching with power on

texts:
I’m curious as to why after replacing T12 HO bulbs they don’t come on if power was on when replacing. I come back hours later and they are finally on.
Replace with power off and they work right away. Ideas? Thanks.


texts: Faint sewer smell in highrise bathroom during high winds in one direction?

texts:
I rent an apartment in a highrise, and often smell a faint sewage smell when there are high north-westerly winds with gusts.  Following suggestions on a past Stack Exchange posting, I did the simple test for a dry P-trap under the bathtub, i.e., putting my ear to the bathtub drain and listened for the flush of the adjacent toilet.  The P-trap doesn't seem to have dried out.

What are some other possible explanations of a faint sewage-like smell in a highrise bathroom, occurring only when there are high winds coming from a particular direction?


texts: How can I install closet doors for a very long closet opening?

texts:
I have a very long closet opening (about 120" wide and 80" tall) and I'm struggling to find a set of doors for it. Any suggestions for how to add doors to such a long closet opening?

All I can find is closet doors for smaller openings or custom-ordering doors (but those are $$$$).

Thank you!


texts: What is the Best Practice for finishing the walls of a Bathroom?

texts:
I am currently stripping back the layers of wallpaper in a bathroom and I am a relatively amateur DIY-er.

As I have removed the paper, patches of the plaster have become exposed as small bits of the (assumedly) latex primer have come away. Is it therefore better to remove all of that layer and start afresh with a new layer of primer? It is intended for the wall to be painted.

The decor is coming down as part of a larger bathroom refit, although I will be getting in a professional to do the actual bathroom furniture aspect.


texts: How do I remove white residue on bathroom floor tiling?

texts: There is white residue on my bathroom floor tiles in areas where water regularly leaks. It looks like limescale but will not budge when I try to remove it with vinegar. How can I remove it?


texts:
Hi I have a bathroom gfci which is connected to the lights , fan and receptacles in bathroom , bedroom and landing . It's about a 45 year old house . Without protecting the circuits in the bedroom how do I wire the bathroom box as there are 3 switches and the gfi in one box . At present all black wires and white wires are pigtailed together but the gfi keeps tripping , is it too much on one circuit .
I think there are about 10 items , lights and receptacles total .


texts: Overcoming non standard drawer pull (handle) sizes

texts: Every drawer pull in my kitchen is 2-7/8" hole center which is certainly not a common size. I found some 3" that I like (thinking mine were actually 3" center) but unfortunately (and ever so obviously) they do not fit. I can't find any handles online in my current size so I'd like to change my cabinets to 3".  The obvious issue with that is that I will have visible holes in my cabinets because the new handles won't cover it up all the way. Is the any inventive way that I can overcome this issue without unnecessarily replacing my cabinet doors?  Also, I'm open to keeping my existing non standard size if I can actually find some.  Right now that seems impossible though.


texts: What concerns should I have installing a HVAC unit and ducts in a home that's never had it?

texts:
We're looking at a house in southern Alabama that has no central heating and air.  I would like to put one in.  The house was built in 1950.

What should I be considering about the installation?


texts: New dimmer switch and lights misbehaving - 2 cycles through one knob turn

texts:
I've recently installed a dimmer light switch in place of a standard light switch and have run into an odd output.

Through one rotation of the dimmer knob, the lights go through the dimming cycle twice - see linked movie

The switch is suited for LED lights, trailing, and rated 10-450W - the lights are LED dimmable at 4W each (24W total).

Googling the issue for hours hasn't really gotten me any closer to a reason/answer, and it all seems to be wired up fine.

Any ideas?
Thanks! Sam


texts: My bedroom fan needs replacing. There is no wall switch. It worked with remote. Have had nothing but problems with remote controlled fans and would like to install a pull chain only. I was told this is not possible with no wall switch to turn it off and on. Doesn’t make sense to me. So can I have a fan without a remote?


texts: Toilet bubbling, foul smell, no known cause

texts: This morning the toilet started bubbling almost violently for about 30 seconds. I hadn't used any of the sinks or toilet for at least an hour prior to it happening and I haven't been able to recreate it. The toilet flushes normally and none of the drains are clogged. It made the whole house smell like sewer, we live in town so I'm fairly certain we are connected to the city sewer. I can't get ahold of my landlord, with myself being pregnant and two dogs in the house I want to figure out what it could be as soon as possible. Any help is really appreciated.


texts: Anti-freeze or non-freeze faucet leaking a lot from the top metal cap

texts:
I have two outdoor antifreeze faucets that are both leaking from the top metal cap. As shown in the pictures. [

I tried tightening it and using teflon tape then tightening it, but none works. I can get access of the other side of the pipe for one faucet, but for other faucet, the other side of the pipe is behind dry wall.

Any suggestion on what less-invasive solutions I should try next?


texts: AC Gearmotor 115 Nameplate RPM 4.0 RPM Max. Torque 75.0 in-lb trips breaker when switch is turned off

texts:
To whom it may concern, I recently purchased a Dayton AC Gearmotor 115 Nameplate RPM 4.0 RPM Max Model #
52JE07. Torque 75.0 in-lb. The gear motor is single phase with two wires L1 and L2 respectively with no ground. I wired this into a 20 amp industrial switch. From the switch is 10 feet of 14 gauge extension cord to plug to my outlet. When I turn the switch to off, it blows the 20 Amp circuit breaker in my box every time. This motor does not require a capacitor according to the technical specs provided by Dayton. I did not ground the plug nor the switch as the motor is two wire. I switched neutral and hot on the switch and vice versa from the L1 and L2 terminals with absolutely no change.  There are GFCI outlets in the circuit where I am plugging into. They do not trip, only the main breaker. I can turn the motor off and on by tripping the GFCI breaker on the next outlet leaving the switch on. As soon as I turn the switch off, trips the breaker. My question is, should I wire ground to neutral on the switch from my plug wire? Any ideas of what could be causing this?


texts:
We are considering replacing the water main/gooseneck that supplies our 1920 Washington Dc duplex home. We think it is probably original galvanized pipe. While it is not leaking and we have reasonable water pressure we are going to be tearing up our yard and the laying a rat slab under our porch where we assume the water main runs, so now would be the best time to do it.

right over our property line between the sidewalk and street (about 40 feet from our house) is what I believe is the access point to our water meter and shutoff.

About 30 feet from there and 10 feet from our house is this cap/valve. What is it for?


texts: Should I use a stripper or sander to remove paint on my deck?

texts:
I have a deck that's maybe 10 years old and the previous owners used paint instead of stain.  I want to remove the paint and I already started with the Behr Premium Stain and Finish Remover, but it's not removing every coat in each area.  I was wondering if I should use a Belt or an Orbital Sander to complete the job.

This all started because the railings weren't up to code so I tore them down and I decided to redo the entire deck, because it was peeling.


texts: Why am I getting noise with my network cable connectors?

texts:
The modular plugs or what I like to call "end-caps" for Cat6 cable, I have the kind where you can push the cable all the way through then cut so you know you have proper cable alignment.  I thought this would be the best way to go so I don't have to dreadfully stare at the modular plug to determine if the wiring is in the right order.

Well, what I have noticed is that it is impossible for me to cut the wiring back far enough which creates excessive amount of "noise" and crosstalk and is just a bigger issue than what I imagined.  Am I doing something incorrectly or is this just a hazard of using this type modular connector?

EDIT
Below are images of my crimp work - looks good to me, but the cable is still not functioning!


texts: Could this wall material contain asbestos?

texts:
I'm new here and I guess it's not the greatest thing to be asking, but any thoughts if this wall material could have asbestos in it? I'm really not sure what this wall material is. Thank you to everyone in advance!

Shared Album of wall material


texts: Do I really need to wait a month before applying primer to plaster?

texts:
I've recently removed wallpaper and now I've gone through and plastered over some bad spots on the wall. I've already sanded it down and it's ready for primer. However, when reading the instructions on the primer, it says new plaster must age for 30 days before priming.  Do I really need to wait 30 days if I've just patched a few places up? What's the reason for waiting? Here's what I'm using in case it helps:

Ace Vinyl Spackling
Premium Royal Latex Primer


texts: Prep for installing sub panel in attached garage

texts: I recently built a three car garage attached to the side of my house with a slab on grade foundation. It replaced an earlier single car garage built in the 1920s that was detached and about 15' from the house. I used the existing 30amp circuit that went to that building to set up lights and a few outlets in the new garage. The house is 150 year old farm house which I had upgraded from a 60amp main service to 100amp when I bought the house 25 years ago. Later this year (probably fall), I would like to upgrade to a 200amp main service with a 70amp sub panel in the garage. The two biggest loads in there now are a 120v mig welder and a small portable compressor. I want the 70 amp sub panel to enable me to upgrade to a large 220v compressor in the future. The main service panel is in the front corner of the main house basement which has a full basement and is 20' by 20'. Attached to the side of the main house is a kitchen ell that was built in the 1920s that is 20' feet wide with a 3' deep dirt floor crawl space. The foundation walls for main house and kitchen ell is granite block. Attached to the end of the kitchen is another 10' wide addition that was an old attached carriage house which I poured a slab on grade foundation that at it's top is basically level with the dirt floor of the crawl space. This last addition has a small bedroom in the back and a laundry room/hallway in the front that leads out to the attached garage. The slab for the attached garage is level with the slab in the laundry room. There is a 30" wide hallway in this last addition against the side of the kitchen with two steps down into the laundry room and through a doorway two steps down into the back bedroom. The current electric and plumbing for the laundry room and garage run under this hallway and then against the back wall of the laundry room that separates it from the back bedroom. I am in the process of remodeling the back bedroom and needed to remove the staircase to re-frame it. Before I button this up with the new staircase, it gives me access to the 2' high (slab to bottom of joist) crawl space below the little hallway. So now that you have all the background, here are the questions. The length of the circuit wire from the main panel to the attached garage should be a little under 75' (including bends). I am thinking that the wire to feed the sub panel could be #6 4 shielded wire run along the top of the joists in the cellar of the main house and kitchen, and that it would be best to have that wire run all the way to the sub panel with no connections in the middle. I will drill a hole through the 6"x6" kitchen mud sill to feed the wire into the small hallway continuing on into the laundry room. So my question is where I will not have easy access to the little space below that hallway should I use PVC conduit (i.e. 1 1/2" schedule 40)? If I was to run the wire up the face of the laundry room wall and across and through the wall to the garage, does that run need to be inside conduit? All the existing circuits for the laundry room are in conduit from just inside the kitchen ell to their outlets (220 dryer, 120 washer). If I need (or should) put conduit under that hallway I was thinking I should do it now (just install that section of conduit) before I close everything back up. I keep going back and forth on what I should do and figured I should ask some experts for advice. Thank You, Frank


texts: Can I use existing heater wiring to supply a sub-panel for two circuits?

texts:
I'm converting an existing sauna room to infrared. It currently has one 240/30A circuit. I have two heaters and one power supply/controller. Before purchasing I believed the power supply would handle powering both heaters from one on input side, but now I know two circuits are needed (PS has 4 inputs/4 outputs)
Each heater is 13A. Rather than run a 2nd circuit from the subpanel (would be difficult), I am hoping to add a small sub panel to split the 30A into two 15A circuits. The 30A is already coming from a subpanel but I wouldn't be making any changes there.
Is this approach ok or do I need to run a 2nd circuit?

So L1/N1 - L4/N4 on input side, L10/N10 - L40/N40 on output side
240v/30A coming in. I'm getting from this conversation that I'll need to replace the feed side 30A breaker with a 40A or 50A?


texts: Can I wire a transfer switch to two separate primary panels?

texts: I have 2 separate panels with 100 amp. ratings each - one older one fused, one newer with CB's - each with about 10 circuits. Both have bonded neutrals, using a #6 AWG cable and both have neutral and ground buses bonded together. If the transfer switch wire bundle is run into the older panelboard, can wires be pulled to the newer adjacent box, currently joined by 3/4" conduit, in order to power several circuits in the newer panel when the power goes out? I measured just fractional voltage (e.g., 0.012 volts) between the two panelboard neutral/ground buses with all circuits energized. The transfer switch can carry 10 circuits and 30 amps.


texts: Arc Fault Breaker trips when 2 specific lights are turned on

texts:
We had a 20 Amp Double-Pole Type CH Breaker replaced with an arc fault breaker. This was done on several breakers, no issue at the time and only issues with one now.

I've since discovered that when lights are turned on in either of 2 attic spaces the breaker trips. I'm trying to decide what to check first.

Here's the setup:
From an outlet a 12/2 comes up to the attic into a junction box. From there 12/2 power goes to:
-1 switch that controls 2 lights (trips breaker)
-a 2 gang switches in a different attic. The 2 switches control:
   a light in that attic (trips breaker)
   an outlet in the outside soffit (does NOT trip breaker with tester plugged in)

So, I'm thinking the wiring in junction box is fine (because the outlet is fine) and there's an issue with the switch or "lampholder" simple fixture in each of the 2 attic spaces. If so I'll start by taking apart each switch and fixture to make sure they are wired correctly, no bare wire is touching the box, etc.

Am I on the right track? Thanks!


texts: Are two 8' grounding rods and clamps on the gas and water service necessary for 25 ohms?

texts:
I was just told by the electrical inspector that I need grounding clamps on the cold water and gas line in addition to two 8' grounding rods. As far as I'm aware the NEC only says you need to have a maximum resistance of 25 ohms, and I know the burden of proof is on me, but this seems excessive.
I've seen many new construction properties, all which passed inspection with less.
I know I have to do it.  I guess I just want to know if it really takes this much grounding, to stay under 25ohms?


texts: Is it safe to install a three pronged cable into a four pronged dryer?

texts:
I just moved into an old home that has a three pronged wall jack as shown below:

I have a newer dryer that has a four pronged cable.  Please see the back of the dryer, I've removed the four pronged cable.

Question

I bought a new three pronged cable from home depot. Can I put that cable into this dryer and simple connect it to the wall? Is that safe? Will it work? If so, what do I do about the spot for the grounding wire?
I would love to see a video/image of this being done.

In the past I've replaced a three pronged cable with a four pronged cable in a dryer and successfully connected it. But this time I'm trying to do the reverse..

I've fixed and already washed one round of clothes. Hopefully all is well :)


texts: how to bypass an HVAC unit float switch (safe-t-switch)

texts: rats keep chewing through the safe-t-switch wires even when I taped them up heavy. before I get rid of all rats I need to just bypass the float switch. at least then I can use the heat while I'm home.


texts: What is the best way to build a simple desk capable of supporting several hundred lbs.?

texts: I'm in the middle of designing a desk that will have to support several hundred lbs., but I'm unsure of what would be the simplest method of bracing to carry a significant amount of weight.  All my research has dug up are fancy desks that promote form over function, and tend to be on the small side, like a writing desk.  What I'm envisioning is a strong worktable-type unit that is low enough to sit at, about 8-10 feet long with no drawers or shelves. While I'm confident in my plans, what worries me is that I'll design it to be too weak.  What is a simple, cost-effective way to design such a brace?


texts: Is it safe to use portable electric stove as space heater?

texts:
TLDR: I have an unused portable electric stove. Can I use it for heating air around without putting anything on top?

Long explanation:
I am cleaning up, repairing and adding insulation to a basement so that I can live there. I bought a 1200W infrared heater to make it warmer while I do stuff there, but it's not enough. I don't want to spend money on another heater because maybe I won't need it after I install the hatch and insulate it. So I thought I can temporarily use stove as a space heater.


texts: What sort of vapor barrier should I install when residing an old wood-framed building?

texts:
I own a building which was built in the late 1800s. Somewhere in the Forties, the width was doubled. This all on pillars with a crawl space. In the fifties, a large warehouse was attached on a slab and cinder block chain wall. The entire building is in need of re-siding and I intend to use the 5” cement board lap siding to maintain the original look.

My question is about a suitable moisture barrier to use. On the original portion of the building there are vertical 1x12 cypress beneath the existing lap siding. I will not be removing the cypress, which means insulation cannot be added. The rest of the building will have exposed studs once the siding is removed and I can add insulation to those locations. The warehouse is unfinished with exposed rafters and studs inside. The floor and attic has no insulation or barriers.

Should I go with a moisture barrier with the wrinkled surface to allow any moisture an escape route behind the siding, a smooth plastic type barrier or look into one of the thin foil backed foam  barriers (not the bubble type)? If I decide to finish the warehouse interior at a later date, should I add a vapor barrier inside at that point? Is it unwise to have vapor barrier in some areas but not others? At the front door recess area is vertical beaded boards. I do not intend to remove those at all.

Thanks for any advice you all may be able to provide.


texts: Problems with reassembling Bosch POF 1200 AE router

texts:
So in my infinite wisdom, while removing one of the springs from my  Bosch POF 1200  AE router I accidentally took the router motor out of the housing itself.
When I removed it I heard click, click and thought nothing of it until I tried to reinstall the motor into the housing, and after a bit of investigation it looks like there's some... brushes or something blocking the top bearing going all the way in.

From the pictures I took and from the online instructional diagram it seems that they sit in the brass-looking areas either side, however my fingers and pliers aren't long enough to get in there and reseat them.
I did manage to use a pencil to navigte and one into the brass seat, but there is some sort of spring mechanism that forces it out; I'm asssuming this to make these brush-things contact the router motor to make it run shrugs.

Can anybody help me make sense of this and how to fix it such that I can successfully reassemble my router?


texts: Why does my clothes dryer make a rattling sound after 5 minutes?

texts: We have a new dryer just one year old. It's an Amana. Just the other day it suddenly started making loud rattling noise after running  5 min. It's so new I'm surprised. What could this be. Everything else working fine. Just really noisy. Any suggestions would help.


texts:
Someone I know had tile laid in their kitchen and was supposed to seal the grout after the work was done. This never happened and now they have dirty grout. What's the best way to make the grout look new?

Is re-grouting an option? By that I mean just putting a new thin layer of grout over top the old stuff to hide it.


texts: In what order should I complete these projects?

texts:
We would like to complete the following projects on our home.  Assume we cannot afford more than one at a time, so they must be completed sequentially.

Add electrical outlets outside ( we have some currently )
Add faucets outside ( we have some currently )
Replace windows and doors
New roof
New siding
Replace gutters
Convert an existing deck to 3 season ( deck currently attached to house )
Create new deck attached to the house

We are likely to go with vinyl siding.  From what I've observed locally, it is typical to also add a 1" thick foam board before adding the new siding.  Given that, I suspect there will be "issues" due to the increased thickness of the siding.

So, should the siding happen BEFORE the outlets, faucets, windows, doors, and deck work, so the thickness can be accounted for properly?

What order makes the most sense and why?

EDIT - Current status of various items

Roof is 23 years old, no leaks that I"m aware of, lots of sand in the gutters
Gutters are also 23 years old, some leak, some sag
Siding is 23 years old, I believe it is "hardie plank", painted in 2005
Windows and doors also 23 years old, feels "breezy" in the Winters, don't seem to seal tightly
Deck is at least 16 years old, structurally sound, but could probably use a new railing


texts:
My Whirlpool gas dryer stopped working efficiently recently. Peering into the burner hole shows clearly that it is sparking when the dryer starts, but doesn't seem to reignite later on. I checked the thermostats, solenoids, and fuses in the front and back with an ohm meter and they are all closed. I also cleaned out the vent pipe, and the blower as well. Still not working well.

Does anyone have a recommendation for next steps?


texts: How do you remove the stick-on child safety locks from appliances?

texts:
I have a few stick-on child safety locks, such as this one found on Amazon.

When it comes time to remove them, what should I do to avoid destroying the finish on the appliances?  They are stuck on really well and won't budge by hand.


texts: How is an air handler's fan controlled if its control board doesn't have a G terminal?

texts:
Background
I have a 2-stage cooling heat pump unit from Bryant, installed ~2006 (central Florida):

Condenser model 698BNX048-B
Handler model FE4ANB006

Shortly after moving in ~5 years ago, our evap coil was freezing over when cooling and the OEM Bryant thermostat was determined to be the issue. The home warranty company covered the cost of getting a new thermostat put in. The original Bryant thermostat (model SYSTXBBUID01-A) is a communicating unit. This thermostat was replaced by a basic Honeywell unit, which as I've recently come to learn, doesn't allow for any of the advanced capabilities of the system (e.g., 2-stage cooling).
The thermostat wiring was changed from the original 4-wire communicating-style setup to a "standard wiring" scheme (R/C/Y/W/etc.) Ideally I could reinstall an original Bryant thermostat, restoring all its features, but those run ~$800 new (or ~$400 used on eBay); I don't see myself spending that on a 15 year old unit. Instead, I'm looking into other (cheaper) options, hoping I can at least restore 2-stage cooling at the compressor, which is currently running 2nd stage around the clock.
"standard wiring" schematics I've seen online align with how our system is wired (again, no longer communicating style). We have 8 wires from both the thermostat and condenser:

Brown (unused everywhere)
Green (connected to G terminal at thermostat, but unused everywhere else)
Red (connected to R terminals at thermostat, handler and condenser)
Blue (connected to C terminals at thermostat, handler and condenser)
Orange (connected to O terminals at thermostat, handler and condenser)
White (connected to W or W1 terminals at thermostat, handler and condenser)
Yellow (connected to Y or Y1 terminals at thermostat, handler and condenser)
Black (connected to Y2 terminal at thermostat, but unused everywhere else)

Air handler board CEBD430510

Note: no G terminal (what I'm trying to understand)
Note: HUM terminal is unused

Air handler board wiring diagram

Condenser board CEBD430439

Note: A, B, C, D terminals are unused

As mentioned, 2-stage cooling is not currently supported with our basic Honeywell thermostat. Our condenser board does not have the Black wire connected to a terminal; instead the Y2 terminal has a jumper wire from Y1 to Y2. Here is our condenser board's current wiring:

Note: Black wire is not connected to condenser terminal, but has continuity from thermostat's Y2 terminal

Restating my goal of restoring 2-stage cooling at the compressor, I thought this would be as simple as:

Purchase and install a new thermostat with 2-stage cooling capability
Remove the brown jumper wire between Y1 and Y2 at the condenser
Connect the floating Black wire to the Y2 terminal
Save money & extend compressor life

Question
For the setup above, how is the blower fan in the air handler being controlled? Everything I've read talks about air handler boards having a G terminal to control the fan, but my air handler doesn't have a G terminal and the green wires from the thermostat and condenser are unused.
My current assumptions are that:

Since the fan runs in both cooling and heat modes, the handler must know to start the fan when it has a signal from either Y or W terminals. If that's the case, how would the fan know to turn on in a 2-stage cooling scenario where Black wire is energized?
Any time the Black wire is energized, the Yellow wire must also be energized (controlled via thermostat) -- this would allow the fan to come on. Energizing the Black wire has no impact on the air handler, only the condenser/compressor via the Y2 terminal.

I know what they say about assumptions, so I'm looking for some more informed feedback. Thanks in advance!


texts: Replacing LED lights with LED lights but 2 out of 5 has issues

texts: I have recessed lights in kitchen.  I placed LED lights in them several year ago, spot/flood screw in.  I just replaced all five with the updated, lighter weight, technology.  When I hit the switch all lights came on.  Click it off and two of the lights did not come back on.  Checked the socket/light by placing the old but working light back in and the light came on. Concluded it was a bad light...but tow of the?  Took back to Lowes and exchange for two new lights.  Place the two exchanged new lights in the sockets did not work.  Took the non working light swapped it with a working "new" light and it worked.  So lights are good, sockets are good as the old lights come on in the sockets.  The only thing I can observe is the contact point on the new lights is slightly wider and the actual contact point is slightly recessed more than the old LED's.  Any suggestions?


texts: Should I have my bath vanity drain augered to eliminate odor and dampness?

texts:
The drains on our master bathroom look like they drain properly, but there's at least a hint that something's wrong: whenever we use mouthwash, the smell of mint sticks in the master bathroom and invades the master bedroom for many minutes afterwards.

The bathroom also often acquires a vaguely damp smell (though there is no fan, and we live in a humid area, so it may simply be damp).

Is there anything we should consider doing before putting money into having a plumber come out and looking at the drains? (We've tried a couple of obvious simple things like baking soda and vinegar down the drains, and Liquid Plumr/Drano.)


texts: Sizing DHW expansion tank for tankless heater

texts:
I have a combined boiler for hydronic heating and DHW. Earlier in the winter, I started insulating as much of the pipes I can easily access.

This has led to hot water coming out of the cold water lines in the kitchen, which happens to be very close to the boiler. I understand now that this is happening because as water is heated, it expands, and being unable to expand further into the hot water lines, pushes back (towards the street).

The solution to this is to put a check valve (pressure reduction valve), stopping the back flow of hot water into the cold lines; this would also require a pressure expansion tank and T&P relief valve.

I don't know how to size the pressure tank. The tables and calculators I can quickly find seem built around using standard DHW heater/tanks, not a tankless coil.

So what size do I need?


texts: Finishing half of basement, should I insulate all?

texts:
We're finishing our basement, and after much research have settled on using EPS foam boards attached directly to the concrete wall to insulate and control moisture. However, there is not enough room for the foam between the concrete and the existing stud walls that the builder originally installed. Consequently I am going to have to tear down the walls, install the foam boards and then reassemble the walls.

However, we are not finishing our entire basement as we will be using half of it for storage and workspace. So my question is, can I get away with not tearing down walls and insulating the half that will remain unfinished? Or will this just create moisture or other problems down the road?


texts: How can I prevent color variants when painting over wall putty?

texts: I have used putty on the wall to fix the holes, and fill some gaps. the putty color is white while the rest of the wall is an older light green, I am painting a very dark yellow, However when painting the putty will give a darker color than the rest of the wall. how can I fix this?


texts: Can I extend icemaker line by joining two braided lines?

texts:
I am moving fridge further from the current water source (sink). The existing line is a compression fitted copper.
I bought a 25’ braided line but it is a bit short for comfort. I am thinking of securing the end of that 25’ line to the wall behind new fridge location and attaching a short braided line to hook up to the fridge. Now that’s two more connections that would potentially fail but Would you do it the same way or would you go copper?
I have never run a cooper line but I think I am capable. Guessing I’d just have to buy copper line, proper cooper tubing cutters, nuts and brass compression rings.
Another reason I am considering copper is that the reviews on braided line are mixed to awful taste/smell of harden hose to no taste and smell, and from what I gather this could be due to the type of water treatment a water district gets. I also run a cheap clear plastic tubing as a backup for this very reason.
What is the recommended route here?
Thanks!


texts: What are the two tubes connected to my refrigerator?

texts: I bought a used whirlpool refrigerator, I don't know if something is missing or what. There are two plastic tubing lines coming out of the back of the refrigerator. Now I know one needs to connect to the in flowing water tube from the wall. But I cannot figure out why the second one is there and what it needs to connect to.  I hooked the gray to the main water source. But, when I turn the water on the The clear line seaped water when the pressure started to mount . Where should that clearline be hooked to?   Please help


texts: troubleshooting a hot tub/spa that won't heat up

texts:
We have a Hotsprings/Watkins brand hottub/spa that came with the house we bought last September.  At the time that we bought it, the hot tub appeared to work and heat up properly.  However, now that we've unwinterized it and tried to use it, it no longer heats up and the water temperature stays at 70 F.  The power to the hottub works ok and the jets, light and control panel all seem to work ok.

At first we found that the circulation pump wasn't working and we though that this is why the water wasn't heating up. We bought a new pump and now the bubbles come out of the bottom circulation vent at the bottom of the tub, but the water still doesn't heat up.  Does this sound like a problem with the heating element?  We're not really familiar with hot tubs and aren't sure how to troubleshoot this other than look at the obvious. People online talk about breakers in the inside control panel, but I couldn't find any and the only fuse in there is in tact. The only breaker I know of is the external breaker in a breaker box outside the hot tub. Any ideas are appreciated.


texts:
I am getting ready to install an Eco temp i12 tankless water heater. From what I have heard there is a possibility of cold air backdrafting through the direct vent and into the water heater, thus damaging the heat exchanger and ruining the unit. I plan to run about 10 feet of exhaust vent through my heated basement and then out the wall, will that prevent freezing air reaching the unit, since the cold air would have to travel through a warm pipe before reaching the unit? Does anyone else have experience with a tankless water heater in a cold climate? I live in Michigan.
Thanks for any input.


texts: Can I lay laminate flooring over top of existing linoleum?

texts: I'm interested in laying laminate flooring over the top of existing intact linoleum.  First, any problems with that?  Secondly, there are unfortunately also uneven spots under the linoleum that causes ridges which are discernable even as you walk across it.  I have gone as far as taking a level and running along the spots to see if I was just out of my mind.. nope.  Are these ridges something that I need to address or can I lay laminate over the top of them?  How can I go about leveling them if needed?  Self-leveling compound/concrete?


texts: There is a inch-long crack between the burner and the surface of my stove top and there is gas leaking out when the stove is turn on.  My contractor said that the sealant got burn off. What can I use to seal it back so it would leak gas?  Thank you very much for your help.


texts: Will returning two 1/2" lines to 3/4" get a volume return?

texts: I am converting a seperate shower and tub to a large walk-in spa shower. The cold water at the existing shower is 3/4" (and branched off to the tub,shower & toilet in 1/2"). The new shower valve system is 3/4" so I am good there with just a bit of re-plumbing. The problem is with the hot plumbing. The plumbing is all under slab and the 3/4" part of it is non accessible. The tub and shower hot branch off a 3/4" to 1/2" under the slab somewhere. The access between the two 1/2" hot water lines is configured in a way as I could bring them together at the new shower wall. If I were to bring them together with a T that fed them to a 3/4" line to the new valve would I get my flow back from the 1/2" drops? I am installing 6 body sprayers and need the flow. I did get sprayers with the lowest rate possible (only 1.5 gpm per head). So basically, if I have X amount of volume in a 3/4" pipe and reduce it into two 1/2" pipes then bring both 1/2" pipes back to 3/4" will I retrieve my volume? It would work kind of like a loop would it not?


texts: What hinges should I use for my overlay cabinet doors?

texts:
I need help understanding how to choose the right hinges for my cabinet doors. I have new 3/4" thick cabinet doors, fully overlaying/sitting on the face frame of the cabinet box.  I do not want European hinges, and want the doors to open to approximately 180 degrees (open all the way back to the adjacent cabinet door).
What description do I look for in choosing the right hinges for this application?


texts:
Complete novice here trying to install a Nest thermostat in our new home. I hooked everything up according to the Nest guide, but the thermostat gave a power/battery error message. I've gathered that it needs a C wire, but it doesn't look like one is available from the older outside unit - Goodman PGB024075-1.
Photos of the outside unit wiring and diagrams here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CqgssCF3EULeR7YY8
Edit: I think I finally found an applicable manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RLIEJSde4Kr5889qODMiiCYcrvHgTp0G/view?usp=drivesdk
I've read through a good number of similar posts, and I understand that if no C connecter is available on the board (at least I couldn't find one), I should be able to splice(?) into one of the wires coming out of the 24v side of the transformer (Pic 2). Not the red wire though. If correct, where exactly would I do this?
There are already spare small wires running into the house to the thermostat (Pic 5), so I should just need a short length of extra wire (Google says 18/5?) and to know where to connect it.
Oddly, the two capped white wires at the bottom are seemingly not connected to anything (Pic 5). They appear to run back into the unit somewhere (Pic 6). Unsure if one of those could be used?
Haven't been able to find a manual online, so hopefully the photos of the wiring diagrams inside the panels are helpful.
I'd really appreciate any additional guidance on this!


texts: drill concrete for installing tack strips

texts: I'll planning to replace carpet in the basement and will need to install tack strips on the concrete surface. I know they sell tack strips with presettled sturdy nails for concrete. So do people normally drill holes in concrete of nail size and hammer it in? I need probably special "enforced" drill bits for this?


texts: Electrical outlet clearance from a hot water panel radiator

texts:
What is the clearance of an electrical outlet from a hot water panel radiator? So facing the wall with a window and having a panel radiator down below hanged/fixed on the wall, how far away left and right can you place an outlet? BY THE CODE.

By the code, any wall has to have an outlet. The spacing between receptacles, according to the NEC, it is 12 feet with no point along a wall being more than 6 feet from a receptacle.

So, how do I handle this? The bedroom is 10 by 13.5 feet and the wall in case is 10 feet with 5.3 feet window opening. The radiator below is 47 inches wide.

Credits for the second image for houseneeds


texts: Wiring a ceiling fan with different wires from the ceiling

texts: I'm trying to wire a ceiling fan and light. I have 2 wires coming from the ceiling. 1 is a black, white and ground where the black is constant hot. The second wire is a black, white, ground and red and is only hot when I turn the wall switch on. There are 2 wall switches, one for the fan and one for the light but only the one wire (black, white, ground and red). How the neck do I connect it to work? Right now, I capped off the constant black and white wire and hooked up the other, black to black, white to white,, and red to blue and turn the switches on and it doesn't work.....


texts: Why is one bedroom always colder than the rest of the house?

texts:
We have a two story home with 3 bedrooms upstairs. Home is 7 years old.  One of the bedrooms is always around 5-6 degrees Fahrenheit colder than the rest of the house (when compared to the thermostat temp).  Currently it is the baby's room and we placed a heater in there to bring up the temp to a comfortable level.  I would really like to find a better solution as when the baby is not in the crib anymore we would not want the heater in the room.

There is one vent in the room (which is also true for the other kid bedroom that does not have this problem).  The difference between the two vents is that the cold room went is running inside the drywall of the exterior wall and the other room vent is in the floor (but still against the exterior wall, just not in the drywall).  The temperature coming out of the went in the cold room feels warm so I know the heat is getting there.

My first thought was to adjust the air flow in the vents going upstairs by closing some of the other vents thorough the house. But I have read that doing this will make your furnace work harder and less efficient since you are altering the origional design/installation.  We are the second owners of the house and I am not sure if the room was originally not  insulated properly, but I would prefer not to have to open up the walls if it is possible.


texts: Radiant floor heating head unit turns off when turn lights on

texts: My radiant floor heating head unit and the light switch are in the same box sharing power in lines split between the 2.    Whenever I turn the lights on in the room the floor heating head unit turns off and turns back on when the lights are turned off.  Also when the lights are off and the head unit is on the room lights will randomly flash on then off


texts: NEC: Using Non-Rated (CMX) CAT6 cable inside an attic of a single family home

texts:
I'm looking to install POE security cameras. Due to the long runs outdoors the cable needs to be UV resistant. This usually means that cable has to have a sheath that is unrated (CMX) and can't be run for long distances inside a structure. NEC allows for 50 feet indoors provided its terminated inside an "enclosure" or "primary protector".

https://www.mikeholt.com/instructor2/img/product/pdf/11LE-968-sample.pdf

I believe the logic behind this all comes down to fire. If lighting or a large voltage is applied to the exterior of cable it could ignite the sheath and start a fire inside the home. However, I don't know how i'm able to reasonably terminate multiple runs coming into a structure from various sides/distances all in enclosures grounded enclosures.

In my state that involves a low voltage 06 licence which means your basically an electrician. 4000 hours apprenticeship + certs, licence, bond all of it.

This could get pretty expensive and is well beyond the scope of what most home owners are expecting for security camera installs.

That said, I want to do these jobs right and was wondering what common practice is here.

Thanks.


texts: I just moved into a new house and my son and I have been experiencing tightness in the chest and asthma.  When we leave the house and are out and about; the symptoms are gone.  Our bathrooms have no windows and the exhaust fans are in the ceiling. I assume since the house was built in 2006 that the fans are vented through the attic roof, but I was wondering if it could be causing mold in the attic.  Our symptoms are of concern, since we know something in the house is making us feel sick. Do exhaust fans need to be cleaned regularly?


texts: How can I convert this cast-iron cleanout to a proper air-gapped drain?

texts:
My house's water softener and salt tank overflow currently drain through what appears to be a drilled-out cast iron cleanout cap in the basement, close to where the sewer line exits the house.  This causes problems such as sewage smells and is not to code.  I would like to correct this by attaching a PVC wye with a no-hub coupler, leading to a air-gapped drain and trap for the water softener and a cleanout to reach the sewer lateral line.
My questions are:

Can I get a no-hub coupler on the portion currently visible, or will I need to remove concrete around the pipe?
Will I need to cut the pipe below the flange visible just above the concrete, or could the no-hub coupler attach onto it?
What do I need to do to remove the old clean-out cap/remaining threads?  It appears to be some kind of insert into the pipe.
Does the proposed solution meet current code for Ohio?

Current situation:

Proposed solution:


texts: diagram of a double p-trap for a double kitchen sink

texts: have a double sink in my kitchen and the water run back and into the empty sink. can I put a double p-trap in and will it stop the back rain


texts: 120V on a 240V, 30 amp circuit? Brain has zero volts

texts:
Facts: old Eaton/Cutler Hammer panel with type BR breaker. Double pole 30 amp breaker, 240V, controls two wall heaters and two zone thermostats in two rooms. Heaters and thermostats and my brain got mixed up after 28 years....
Tested 120V at dining room wall thermostat wires in dining room so does it need a 120V or 240V heater for it?
In living room, on same circuit, its thermostat wiring also tested for 120 V. I am asking for advice on what voltage thermostat and heater to install in each room and an explanation of the 120V readings on a 240V circuit....
I vaguely recall that I might have had two underperforming 120V 1500W heaters on this circuit, but that was 28 years ago ........So do I install 120v or 240v thermostats and 120 or 240 v heaters?


texts: code approved way to cut 5"x30" out of a 8" x 10" support beam

texts: I need to cut 5" x 30" out of a basement support beam to accommodate a door and secondary suite height requirements.  Would the jack and king posts for the door be enough support for the 5"x30" or do I need to put in 6"x6" posts? footings?


texts: Can I use a copper ground with aluminum hot and neutral?

texts:
I want to put in two pedestal lamps at the beginning of my driveway, as well as a weatherproof outlet box. The total run from the outside panel is 30 ft. I want at least 30 amperes at the box. The wires will be in conduit.

Presently I have enough AL #6 wire for my hot & neutral (I already had the wire), but not enough for the ground. I do have some CU #10. Can I use it?


texts: How long after applying orange oil to my Grandmother's old desk should I stain it?

texts:
I have inherited my grandmother's old childhood desk. This a desk that has been heavily used its whole life. I have sanded it down, finishing with 400 grit. I used wood condition by Minwax. Then restained it, came out horrible. I sanded it all back down, again finishing with 400 grit. But during the second of sanding, I noticed just how dried out the wood was. So this time I used orange oil. Sprayed onto my clean cloth and wiped on. The wood soaked it quicker then I could wipe it on. I did a second coat 24 hrs later. This time it soaked it pretty quickly but not a quickly as before. I had treated the WHOLE desk; the under belly, inside the draws, the interior where the goes (drawer cavities). Waited a bit I then wiped it down with a clean white cloth and no oil residue is on the cloth.
My question:
How long should I wait before restaining? Or is there anything I need to do before restaining?
I have restored lots of antiques and never had such a difficult time as this desk is giving me.


texts: Spot repair hardwood floor due to Goo Gone

texts:
I just had my hardwood floors professionally sanded and finished with 3 coats of Bona Mega Water Base Satin Finish. Because we’re in the process of moving in and doing other renovations, it was just discovered a bottle of Goo Gone has leaked on the floor and absorbed into the wood (see photos). No telling how long it’s been there, at least a week or 2.

Is this something I can repair myself with perhaps a handheld orbital sander and using the same finish that the pros used? Any advice?


texts: Can i use Existing Light fitting to power video doorbell?

texts:
---UK HOME---
I have the feeling the answer is going to be no but let's see.
Currently i only have a light switch and ceiling light in my front porch and no power socket.
I want to install a video doorbell that i want hard wired and need a power source for it. So i was thinking to use the power adapter that came with doorbell and connect the live and neutral wires to it.
The adapter inputs in 230v and outputs 24v AC to the doorbell.The pins for outlet are removable and interchangeable for different outlets in different countries. So I was thinking to take it off and attach wires to the Live and neutral contacts to give it power. t
Theoretically getting power from it in parallel from the ceiling light. Essentially I want to connect the adapter parralel to the live and neutral wires going to the light fitting. It looks unlikely this would overload the circuit as the adapter is only pulling 24v

Then I will cover whole thing with some wood or plastic casing.
Sounds like it may work, but I'm no expert. So can this work or any other ideas that might work for this situation?


texts:
I saw a thread about connecting two thermostats in parallel.
I could not add comment to that thread, so I put question here.
My tenants always shut off thermostat or reduce temp when they are not in their unit during winter time. It has caused several pipe to become frozen and cause a flood, though I told them many times. They just want to save money for heating.
Now based on that thread, it seems that we could connect two thermostats in parallel. I am not sure whether it could meet my requirement.
What I want to do is: on the other side of the wall (with one thermostat), I add another one (that the tenants could not see), I connect them in parallel. Once the colder months come (in our state from September to April), legal requirement is to set temp at 64 F or above. In my side, I set heating on and set temp to 64 F, to the tenant's side, even they turn off thermostat or reduce temp below 64 F , their thermostat could not do anything unless they increase temp to 64 F or above. Do the parallel connections for both thermostats work that way? Thanks.
rose


texts: Bath tub spout still drips a little after replacing, is this normal?

texts:
I didn't notice the leaking from the spout until some guests told me. It was dripping big drops. The spout is the type installing using hexa bolt. I bought the replacement at HomeDepot and followed the instruction here

Now I notice there are still tiny drops of dripping (exact spot in the pic). Not a lot of water I think. The faucet is still fine, no dripping there.

Is this normal for this type of spout? Should I be concerned about bigger leak elsewhere?

Thanks,


texts: Flooring will run long ways parallel to walls in hallway. Then the hallway runs into the living room with a large white brick fireplace at the far end. How should the wood be laid? There is a bank of 3 large windows on the left side of this room, not on the wall with the fireplace. The living room then l's into the dining room.


texts: Does water pressure drop when opening a faucet?

texts:
Wondering if anyone can explain how a PRV (pressure reducing valve) works? I have a water pressure gauge connected to my hose bib right after the PRV. It measures 75psi.  When I open a faucet inside my house, the pressure is dropping to 60psi. Is this normal, or not? Is the PRV supposed to maintain the 75psi when faucet is open?
Thanks!
Jen


texts:
I have a standard, on/off light switch for the fan/light in a room.  The past 2 days the light does not want to turn on when the switch is flipped "up" it wants to turn on when the switch is almost in a half-way position between "up" and "down"

The light will remain off when the switch is "down" and the light will remain off when the switch is completely flipped "up".  There has been no electrical work done, no storms nothing altered or changed in that room or the home.

Is this switch just wearing out (it's only about 8 months old) or what could be causing this issue?


texts: Need help tracking down possible open neutral

texts:
OK, moved into 1974 mobile home two months ago, everything was working.  Had an incident much like a breaker tripping, but none were.  One day of flickering devices, then back to normal except none of the 220V appliances work.  Stove turns on but doesn't get hot, dryer buzzes but doesn't turn on, etc.  Also some weird behavior, turning the breaker to the hot water heater off made the lights in the kitchen go out, but then turning the stove on with the breaker still off made them turn on (I have junctions inside receptacles, i.e. through the "tab").

OK, so when I test the box, I have 122-124V on one side/branch, and 100-108V on the other, they fluctuate a little.  All of the breakers have at least 100V between them and the ground bars.  I turned the master off and measured about 2-4 ohms resistance between neutral and ground in several of the problem receptacles.

If I can figure out which wire is causing a problem at the box, I can track it down and replace whatever (pigtail, receptacle, switch, or wire if need be)...  I'm just not sure where to start.

Should I pull the neutrals one by one and test them for...  voltage against hot?  Where should I start?  Thanks in advance.


texts: Are lightbulbs in a wooden range hood safe?

texts: I'm building a wooden range hood and I'd like to know if my lighting setup is safe.  I have two recessed fixtures with 5 watt LED bulbs.  I know that LED bulbs don't really get too hot, but is it a bad idea to make the hood as I did?  Should I use some sort of heat shield?  The bulb is about 1/2" away from the wood, which is 1/4" plywood. Also, is it a bad idea to have bare wires lying on the wood?  Pics are below.


texts: Applying paint in hard to reach regions due to roofing sheets

texts:
Around two years ago we installed Galvalume sheets for roofing. As you can see in the images below, the trusses were given only epoxy coating. We were told by the roofing contractor that paint over that coating would not be necessary.

However, now we are seeing the epoxy coating 'chalking out' i.e., it's just powdering and falling off exposing the metal surface. While we are keen on repainting the trusses, the concern is there is hardly any space between the sheet and upper surface of the trusses. Is there any solution to paint all the sides of the sections without detaching the sheets? Also, would it be essential to remove this existing layer of epoxy for the paint to stick?


texts: I am taking down a light fixture that has 2 wires, a black wire hot and a white wire neutral.  The ceiling fan I am installing has a Black wire a white wire and ground wire.  Do I just take the neutral wire and ground and put them together?


texts: What sort of ceiling fan support do I need where I can't find framing?

texts:
As I have already worked on 4 out of 5 ceiling fans I have put up so far (previous question). Now I am going to put the last one up. I need your help on this one.

However, one of them I had a light fixuture hanging on the ceiling wall that looks like this:

So when I took this light fixture out and look at the ceiling wall to see what  is inside and here is what I found:

The one I have look much like this which has slides:

But the problem is it is  very wide and when I put my hand in the hold to find the nearest wood and there is no wood there.

My question here is do I need to replace with the different ceiling fan support box with brace kit I bought from Home Depot a few weeks ago ? This one is different than the one above and it is heavy.

Should I replace the old brace with the slides with the new one or should I just leave it and put it up?


texts: What should I use to fill a gap between oak trim and wall?

texts: I have oak trim on my baseboard. What do you use to fill in the gaps between the trim and the wall? Do I use regular caulk and then paint it the color of the wall?


texts: Can a window A/C unit be installed on its side?

texts: I have a very small window (narrow) Can you install an A/C on it's side and run or will it burn up the compressor? Thanks Jerry


texts: I have seven 24v 2amp thermostats. Do I just need a single 24v 2amp power supply to power them?

texts:
I have seven 24v 2amp thermostats.
The thermostat wires all feed to the same place.
Do I just need a single 24v 2amp power supply to power them?
The thermostats are Tekmar 532.  They will connect to a grundfos pump and a zone control valve.  zcv is 24v as well.  For now I just want to test that the thermos are not doa but I suppose the power supply is going to have to power the 24v zone control valves as well.


texts: What is this bit for with a hole in the end? [pic]

texts:
I just came across this bit in my toolbox, which I'm fairly sure came with an installers drill bit (54" long flexible bit, with a hole in the end for pulling wires back through).

It's a standard screw driver bit, tapered at the end (though not enough to actually be a flathead bit) and a hole through it. Any ideas what this is for?


texts: When is it appropriate to use a wood rule rather than a tape measure?

texts: Wood rules and tape measures are similar tools, and I've realized I almost always default to the tape measure. When should I be using a wood rule instead?


texts:
The walls in my house are made of Bungaroosh which means that attaching anything to them is most likely to hit some issues.  Recently I've been trying to fit a floating shelf to the wall, but no matter what I do it ends up coming away.

The steps I've taken so far are:

Drill hole
Place vacuum nozzle up against hole to get all the fallen bits out
Fill hole with filler and put wall plug in
Wait for this to dry and then attach item with screws

This approach seems to work normally, but this shelf has turned out to be fairly heavy so it's pulling itself off the wall.  I also tried some Gripfill but not sure if this is appropriate for this job - it also didn't work.

Can anyone suggest any alternate approaches I could try?


texts: How do I wire a one lamp fixture with a two lamp ballast?

texts: I have a two lamp ballast with two blue, one red, one white, and one black. How do I connect that to a one lamp fixture????


texts: Looking to protect OSB through the winter

texts:
I've been building a small cabin in the mountains for the past year or so in my spare time and finally have a sub floor laid out and screwed down. I have no time frame as to when I get a roof over the floor and with winter approaching, I'd like to get something to protect my OSB from the elements.

I am in southern california and we're supposed to have a wet winter. Not necessarily snow, but a lot of rain. I know the OSB comes presealed, but I'd like to add another layer of protection.

I was thinking something like deck sealer or this patio paint from HD: http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-Gal-PFC-35-Rich-Brown-Low-Lustre-Porch-and-Patio-Floor-Paint-630001/203939583

I spent $100 dollars on a thick, large tarp that lasted a couple months, but the wind destroyed it. It gets pretty windy up there. Below is a picture of the subfloor I have finished. It is about 320sqft.

I understand, I can't completely waterproof this stuff, but I want to try and at least get it through this winter season.


texts: I am installing a 200 amp panel on back of house fed by meter and disconnect mounted on pole. Plan to run 4/0 aluminum wire maybe 80 to 90ft. Plan is to bury schedule 80 pvc. Charts show 3 inch pipe for 200 amp but boxes in store only have knockouts up to 2.5 So do I reduce at the box?


texts:
I was hoping to open up my kitchen to living area and make an island where it the pantry and coat closet is. All I have are these floor plans. Is that wall structural?

Thanks!


texts: I have a Briggs twin.  The governor gear broke and I replaced it. I adjusted the governor and it still runs full tilt. I tried anther new governor gear and the same thing happens.


texts:
My worktops are treated with Danish oil, and I appear to have got some on the tiled splashbacks and not noticed until it's cured (it's not very obvious except in daylight, I oiled by artifical light).

Is there any way to get it off?  I don't want to use a blade until I've got an idea of how to get the residue off where the blade won't attack it.

It's not going sticky, so not a duplicate of How to solve the problem of sticky Danish oil?.