texts: Is it normal for a washing machine to shock you without grounding?

texts:
Wrote a long story about me moving my mothers washing machine but decided to keep it short:
Machine 8 years old, aesthetically in perfect condition other than some exposed sheet metal on the side due to a scratch. Reportedly a few of its programs don't work.
The room where I installed it was (according to the previous owner) intended for a washing machine but he never got around to it. It had water but no electrical sockets, only an improvised lamp attached to a heavy gauge 3 core electrical cable sticking out the wall.
I removed the lamp and attached a grounded outlet instead. Plugged the machine in, all the lights came on as normal. Reached over to adjust the drain hose and got a mild shock from the scratch of exposed metal on the side. Didn't try if any other parts of it would shock me too, just unplugged it.
Searched around the internet, some claim that its normal if the machine isn't grounded properly. I have no clue if the ground on that wire I connected the outlet to actually serves any purpose. The other end of the cable is connected to the electricity of the bathroom next to it but I have no clue where. The bathroom has no sockets either, only lamps. I looked under the housing of a few of the bathroom lamps, they get their electricity via a 2 core cable.
In the electrical panel, the switch that controls the bathroom and the washing machine room has a 3 core medium gauge cable leaving and disappearing into a wall. Its not the same kind of cable as either the washing machine room or the bathroom have.
So now I'm suspecting that the grounding in that room might be fake and as such would justify the shock that the machine gave me. Is that a plausible scenario? Or should I just be looking for a new washing machine?
This took place in europe, 230V is the standard. Blue and brown wires make zap, yellow/green stripe wire is supposed to be ground.
EDIT: Looked up how to test for grounding, turns out all I needed was a multimeter, I got one of those. Surely enough, the cable in the washing machine room is not grounded. Also tested other outlets around the house, the grounding works in most places, other than the washing machine room, all the basement outlets save for one, the outlets behind the house on the patio don't work at all.


texts: How do I install a GFCI in a box with two 2-wire cables and one 3-wire cable?

texts: I need some help please.  I'm replacing a standard receptacle with GFCI but the instructions that came with the GFCI doesn't explain how to make the connections when when there is a 3-wire cable.  Even more confusing is this box has 3 cables feeding into it (one 3-wire and two 2-wire).  Thanks in advance!


texts: I have an older house that has 12/2 wiring to the plugs.  I am adding 2 LED lights and and On/Off switch to a closet and want to connect to the electrical plug for the power.  The wiring that was installed was 14/2.  When i turned the CB (20amp) back on it keeps tripping. Will replacing it with a 15amp fix the problem or will I need to run a separate line to a new breaker?


texts: What is the best way to lay brick pavers on concrete porch

texts:
I have a concrete porch which I would is covered and does not get wet during rain/snow. It does not have any drain issues. We don't like the way it looks so we would like to beautify it by laying brick pavers.

I've looked on line for how to lay brick pavers on cement surface but have gotten mixed results.

What is the best way to lay the brick pavers?

Should I:

Lay & level gravel
Lay & level  paver sand
Lay & level  brick overs
Cover the holes with polymeric sand
Edge will be set in mortar
Wash it up

I'm looking for the easiest and durable way to do this. The above steps seem a lot because the porch is covered and won't be wet in rain.


texts: Fan in (UK) fan oven scraping against heating element

texts:
I have a fan oven at home that's only a few years old. About six months ago it started intermittently emitting a horrific sound, that I was able to trace to the fan at the back of the oven scraping against the heating element that surrounds it.

Closer inspection suggested that the heating element had warped, so I bought a replacement online and fitted it.

So far so good, until a few weeks ago when the same sound started. Same problem, but this time I'm just not able to get the heating element into a sensible position.

The photo below shows (with a panel removed) where the heating element is scraping against the fan (Note that this photo was taken after I had fitted the new element, and all was well).

The small screw in the bottom-right corner allows for (limited) adjustment of the shape of the heating element.

And there are three clips that hold the two windings of the heating element in position with respect to one another (one of which also has the adjustment screw mentioned above attached).

The heating element is attached to the back of the oven by the flat silver plate in the top-left corner, and there's no scope for adjustment there.

Can anyone suggest what is going on here? How roughly can I attempt to manoeuvre the element into position before I damage it?


texts: Transition from wood laminate to concrete 3/8" down

texts: What should I put down to transition  wood laminate to concrete floor 3/8" down?  Last owner did a DIY rehab it seems, and they just left a bare edge of the wood tile with a visible gap under it - looks tacky and I imagine is probably susceptible to problems.  I have a hardwood threshold but not dead set on using it - something thinner might make more sense given the step down.


texts: Should I use an iron angle or an iron plate to support brick above window?

texts:
An opening has been cut in my brick wall to make room for a new window.  The wall is not structural. The house is framed with wood like most houses here in Dallas Tx. The window is only 30 inches wide.
There will be only 5 runs of brick above window. Do I use an angle or just a 3/8" plate as header to support the weight of brick above window?


texts: Is it permissible to install a low-voltage fixture over an existing ceiling box?

texts:
I inherited an installation of several wired AC smoke detectors. They're three-wire units (AC hot/neutral, plus an interconnect wire). At some point a previous installer removed one of the detectors, kept the wires in the ceiling box joined to prevent interruption to the other detectors, and replaced the unit with a 2-wire 12 VDC smoke detector monitored by an alarm panel:

The wires inside the ceiling box are live. The 12V wire goes around the outside of the box directly into the attic -- the DC and AC lines aren't technically in the same box. However they are in front of each other, and I'm not sure if they're too close.

Per the NEC, is there any violation here? The safest thing I can think to do is put a round cover over the box, move the 12 VDC wire a foot or two over, and install the detector in its own separate spot.


texts: Is a soap and water gas leak detecting solution more likely to cause rust than the store's version?

texts: Will a water and soap solution (one tsp of soap in a cup of water) cause a pipe to rust more than BrassCraft Gas Plastic Water Heater Gas Leak Detector?


texts:
I have a pretty old house (1910) and the water supply line from the street is ancient. I suspect it may be narrowed with scale, and/or manganese fouling (there is manganese in the local supply), because the water pressure, while ok, is not that great.

At one point the town offered to replace old supply lines for free, but now they tell residents to get a private contractor. Digging up the line is a big deal because it goes down into the foundation before heading out to the street, so it must be at least 6 feet deep.

I am wondering if an easier route might be to descale the line somehow, either with a snake/rooter or by a chemical method.

Note that there does not appear to be a curb stop on the line and the meter is located in the basement.


texts: If a basement concrete wall is 43 inches tall, is it possible to put in an egress window?

texts: My understanding is that the opening of the window must be 44 inches from the floor or lower.  Will it possible to put in a window and meet this requirement without cutting any concrete?  Thanks.


texts:
I have a grinder with a Dewalt diamond cup wheel I have been using to remove cosmetic issues on the floor of my basement before staining the floor. I am grinding the whole floor. I am about 1/2 done and need to get the diamond cup off the grinder but I am unable to do so. It is a reverse screw, yes I know I am turning it the right way, I've taken it off twice before.

I have also tried spraying some WD-40 in the threads and tried holding the lock with one hand and striking the wheel with a mini-sledge to loosen the diamond cup. Its still not coming off. I have a dust shroud on the grinder so I can't get a wrench on the back of the diamond cup. I can't take the dust shroud off without 1st taking off the cup. Any ideas how to get this thing off?


texts: What's causing every light on a single breaker to dim and turn off randomly?

texts:
I have a commercial space with recessed ceiling lighting. There's 3 lights in the front, 4 down the hall, and one in the bathroom (all on one breaker). Randomly throughout the day, they'll dim/flicker and sometimes even turn off for hours at a time. We've had 2 electricians look at it with no success.

The first electrician said he tightened wires in a few of the fixtures in the front, which helped for a while, but ultimately the problem came back the next day.

The second electrician checked our panel and ended up following it to the bathroom fixture, where he said the wires were loose in a junction box. He tightened those up and the problem was fixed for a bit, but the issue soon returned.

I'm reluctant to keep paying them to come back and keep looking (for what could be for hours) and still not fixing it again. Is there a chance that this problem is caused by loose wires in every fixture? Or is there something weird going on here?


texts:
The shower drain cover of my shower seems to be blocked.

I  had it removed for cleaning a couple of times before simply unscrewing it. I've tried unscrewing clockwise, counter-clockwise, lifting from both sides at the same time but it wont pop out.

I believe this is the technical description here, but could not make much sense of it:

https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/images/a/420/stw001_trays_v1_ld.jpg

From

https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/products/enclosures/accessories/STW001

Any one would have a recommendation perhaps?


texts: I had a new vinyl floor put around 8 months ago. There is a square in the middle where it has damaged the floor. It is in the middle of the kitchen floor. Is there anything I can do to make this look better without having to replace the whole floor?


texts: I am in the planning stage of a table project and have a question about a piece of acrylic. I intend to use a 3' x 3' square piece of acrylic that is 0.236" thick as the center.  Would a 1" lip on all edges be enough to prevent this large acrylic sheet from sagging in the middle?  Is there any way to calculate the thickness I need?


texts: Can I dig a foundation below flood elevation outside the Floodplain?

texts:
Looking for answers from people building foundations near (not in) the 100 year floodplain. Does this trigger a floodplain build permitting process? Am I basically pigeonholed into a monolithic pour to avoid this? No one working on my foundation (excavators, concrete company etc) seems to know the answer or they think I should just "not worry about it".
My question is 100% a FEMA rules / what is allowed question. Not at ALL interested in whether I "should" or not. To dissuade your fears: This is a field in Montana near a creek that hasn't flooded the site in the last 100 years. I have some control over the flow in the creek. There are hundreds of houses around me, (many lower) which have never flooded (in 100 years). Even if this is all a terrible idea, I simply think it's worth the risk.
I DO care about the county or FEMA saying I did something wrong / making me change it. And, I DO care about a mortgage company forcing flood insurance (showing I am somehow in a floodplain) - pretty sure that won't happen however.
A picture says a thousand words:

Floor joists and the entire home and all electrical, 100% of everything is above the flood plain elevation.
I must: Apply for a permit for any modification or even moving a rock inside the 100 year floodplain. Does this count since I'm digging beneath it? The county did not specify and there no building permits in this county. They were adamant on proving my site is outside the 100 year floodplain (unless flood plain permitted).


texts: How can I find a dimmer switch *without* a separate on / off toggle?

texts:
Most dimmer switches I see in stores have an on / off toggle and also a slider to dim the lights. They look something like this:

I think their goal is that you can set the brightness at your preferred level, then switch the light off and on without changing that.

However, I want a dimmer switch that works more like this speaker knob: to turn it off, you twist it counterclockwise, reducing the volume all the way to the minimum, at which point there's a click as you pass from on to off. Turning it on is the reverse: click on, turn up to desired level.

The advantage here is that you never switch on the sound or the light and get surprised with a very bright or loud level; you always start at nothing and turn it up to the desired level. As a nice side effect for a dimmer switch, because you must consciously choose the light level every time, it's likely you'll stop before reaching maximum brightness instead of always defaulting to that, and thereby save power.

Is there a name for this kind of "toggle knob" dimmer switch so that I can search for one?


texts: How can I extend a 1.5" galvanized plumbing vent up a 6:12 pitch roof? Relocate to make clear area for solar

texts:
I'd like to extend the following plumbing penetration to a spot higher on the roof.  At this time I have access from above to the pipe embedded in the wall, and access to the roof below the 6" dimensional rafters:

I'd like to stick with galvanized and with long sweep elbows if possible, to preserve the ability to snake the fixture from the roof if needed later.

6:12 pitch is 6 inches rise per 12 inches of run, or 26.57 degrees. The pipe comes up vertically, so we're interested in 90 - 26.57 = 63.43 degrees.

Will be inspected to California Plumbing Code.

Yet, there seems to be no 63.43 degree elbows made ;-)


texts: Furnace Pilot Flame ON constant but Main Burner never kicks in

texts:
I own an older furnace (Armstrong EG6F80DC12-6 -- natural gas, forced air, single stage, Honeywell S8600C Continuous Re-Try Module, VR8204A Gas Valve w/ Pilot Burner / Igniter-Sensor).  It has been old faithful but since Saturday i've been experiencing issues with it heating.

When the thermostat calls for heat the following occurs at the furnace:

Inducer Blower Motor starts spinning
Gas valve opens
The pilot is lit -- i can see a wide blue flame.  The flame remains on.

The furnace remains at #3, constantly on, for as long as the thermostat is calling for heat.  I hear no clicks after the pilot light is on nor does the flame or system shut down.  The home, of course, is slowly getting colder since the main burner never kicks in.

What troubleshooting steps should i perform?  I've never dealt with such a problem before.  Working inside the furnace is new to me but willing to learn.


texts: Replacing a washing machine: can I disconnect wasting hose from inside the machine?

texts:
My setup is an absolute joke, I have no access to where the drain hose enters the wall. I can only disconnect this hose from the machine, and use the same hose on the new machine.

Can I somehow open my machine, disconnect the hose, open the new machine, and plug the old hose into it?


texts: Installing UK/EU electric radiator in USA… 50/60Hz significant?

texts:
I've currently got several Cadet RM162 Registers (in-wall heaters) in my home. They're powered with 220VAC power. I'm curious about the challenges of converting some to the sort of electric radiator that appears common in Europe. From what I can tell, the voltage is the same, and the load (current) is similar. But what is unclear is if 60Hz power in the US will be a problem for heaters designed to run on 50Hz power more common in EU/UK.

One retail site I've found many of these on is Geyser.

Since the resistive heating element really won't care about the frequency of the AC power, the real question is about how the built-in thermostat will handle it.


texts:
I just had an inspection for a hot water heater that we recently had installed, and while the installation passed, the inspector noted a leak at one of the copper joints in the hot water pipe.  She thought the pipe might have been jostled as the plumbers were getting the water heater installed, causing the joint to loosen.

She then mentioned that using salt on the joint might cause it to reseal itself.  I've searched all over, and can't find anything suggesting this might work.  Has anyone ever heard of this before, and/or tried it?

PS:  I've sent a message to the plumbing company that installed the water heater, so hopefully they'll come out and fix it for not too much money.  Just curious about the salt fix.


texts: Comapatibility with dedicated hot water recirculation plumbing

texts: Can this Watts Premier hot water recirculating pump (0955800) be connected to a dedicated plumbing (already intalled in the house) that recirculates water back directly to the tank and does not go through the cold water line? Or does this only have to be connected to the hot water pipe out from the tank and has to use the sensor in the farthest faucet in the house for the return?


texts: Can I connect the neutral wire ends via a single switch terminal (without a pigtail)?

texts:
I installed a smart dimmer switch that requires a neutral wire. It was in the junction box with the two ends wire-capped together.
My switch didn't come with pigtail wires and I didn't have any extra wire lying around, so I couldn't do the recommended approach (install a third pigtail wire coming out of the neutral wirecap, and connect that to my switch's neutral terminal).
Instead, I just connected the two ends of the neutral wire by putting them into the same neutral terminal on the switch, under the same screw (see photo). The switch appears to work normally.

But some quick Googling around says I should never put two wires into the same terminal. Why is this? Is there anything dangerous about my approach? To me it seems logically equivalent to the pigtail approach, i.e. the current still has the same paths to flow through. What am I missing?
EDIT: adding two photos of the back of my junction box since some people asked. I know it's a little hard to see, but there are two bundles of cords entering from two ports at the top of the junction box. The bundle on the left has three wires: black, white, and unshielded copper. The bundle on the right has four wires: black, red, white, and unshielded copper. Before I installed my new smart switch, the two white (neutral) wires were connected together with a wirecap. Thank you for the help!


texts: Drain line adapter recommendation for reverse osmosis kit + dishwasher?

texts:
I want to put in a reverse osmosis kit under my kitchen sink, and it requires a waste line tied into the main drain line of the kitchen sink. There's already a dishwasher drain line hooked up to the main drain line as seen in the picture:

I see there are drain line adapters I could buy which would allow me to connect my RO quick-connect and dishwasher to the same drain point:

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-164020-Plumbing-Adapter/dp/B009XDMEK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486343558&sr=8-1&keywords=drain+line+adapter

but I'm not sure if the adapter will fit with the copper drain line that's already hooked up. It looks like a 1/2" copper pipe. Anyone know if this adapter will be compatible?

Thanks


texts: Why are copper shower pans nailed to the framing?

texts:
I am in the painful process of re-tiling a shower that started leaking and after removing the tile we found that the pan had many nails through it to the framing. The shower was installed 20 years previously, so obviously these nails had all rusted up badly, although the pan itself was in good shape.
Now am going through the hassle of removing all the nails, which in some cases are nothing but hard mounds of rust and patching all the holes.
Why on God's green earth would they nail the pan to the framing? I mean the thing had 50 pounds of cement and another 20 pounds of tile and the pan was jammed tight into the framing anyway. It's not like it was going to be moving anywhere.


texts: Is it a problem that the entire element in my electric oven is not red?

texts:
I have a Maytag MER6770AAW twin ovens 4 burner stove.  The bottom burner only turns red  around the front, and not at the back.  One end going into the back turns red and runs all the way around except across the complete back and returning into the back. Is this a problem?

The element disconnect checks out for continuity.


texts: How should I prepare drywall for wallpaper?

texts: If I am posting wallpaper, is it still necessary to apply joint compound?  I though that corner could be cut because the surface won't be exposed especially if i cut all the beveled edges off and achieve a uniformly thick surface.  i thought that wallpaper adhesive would fill the little holes.


texts:
This picture is of a 1/4 inch PEX line from a reverse osmosis filter. This section is right before a remineralization cartridge. The water before that cartridge is fairly close to being distilled water. I was looking for any product that would allow me to create a t-tap with a valve so I could get distilled water whenever I want and also just easily turn the valve to have the reverse osmosis filter send water to my refrigerator instead.
When I repeatedly disconnect the 1/4" pex line from the cartridge and reconnect it, after a while the seal becomes ruined I found and I figured a t-tap would fix that issue. After looking online for quite a while I am unable to find something that would work.


texts: How to fix damaged wires in receptacle box in new installation?

texts:
While cutting holes for outlet boxes in new drywall, my contractor (ahem, me) managed to damage some wires in one of the outlet boxes with his RotoZip.  Now there's not enough undamaged wire to meet the 6" Code requirement (there's about 4" left).  What's the correct way for my electrician (ahem, also me) to address the wiring?  I have to imagine that there's some safe/per-Code remedy to address something like this in a new construction situation without tearing off multiple sheets of drywall for a new wire run?

Location is Seattle, USA.

Thanks in advance for your answers.  Please cite Code if you can!


texts: How to wire a USA 50amp 2 phase double pole breaker supply for a UK 240v high capacity shower pump

texts:
I have recently moved to the USA from Scotland. I brought with me a "Waterfall" 3 bar shower pump, operating on UK 240V, 50Hz A/C,rated at 4 A, 850W, IPX2.

In our house we have a disused 50amp supply in the basement, which used to supply a hotbtub, feeding through a seperate in house double pole circuit breaker, with confirmed red, black, white and earth wires in a 3/4" cable, for which I have three questions.

How do I wire this feed to power the UK shower pump.
Can I alternately/in tandem use a single red or black wire to feed a dog grooming room( currently frequently tripping a house 30amp supply) running 2 x 17 amp, 115v dog dryers, plus an 115v air conditioner rated at 10.8 amps/1200W. Total amps = 44.8 A.

Ideally I would like to run both the 240V shower and 115v dog grooming room from the same supply, not simultaneously,  complying with USA electrical code. Thank you in anticipation of any replies.

Roy.


texts: How can I heat a hole in my pond efficiently in the winter without using a pond heater?

texts:
I'd like to heat my pond to create a hole in the ice during the winter to help a few goldfish survive. The fish are not expensive but I'm trying to save them. The pond is about 50 gallons, about 12 inches deep at the most. Pond is a commercial stiff liner that is kidney-shaped.
I've seen the pond heaters use a lot of energy, 1500 watts or more.
I have an aquarium heater and I might try that but those can be 1000 watts or more. But I'm concerned it will not survive a 100% duty cycle in mid winter.
I'll be using 120vac to heat the pond. Glow plugs seem to all use 12vdc so that's not a great option but I can convert 120vac to 12vdc.

Is there a more efficient way to turn electricity into heat to just keep an open hole in the ice in the pond? I am familiar with basic electronics and make LED lights as a hobby.

Thank you.


texts: How to install a mini split when you have brick walls

texts:
I want to install a mini-split unit myself. I can't afford to do it any other way and I'm going to die of heat exhaustion if I fail because these window units just aren't doing the trick.

The only problem is all of the guides say to drill a hole in the wall. My house is all brick.

What am I supposed to do? Should I just run the hoses through the window or can I / should I drill a hole through the brick wall?


texts:
I have the following wires in a box for a switch. I'm trying to replace the switch with a smart switch but cant figure out which is neutral. I thought it was the white one, but when I unbundle the white white, the light no longer turns on when I toggle the switch.

Also if I measure the voltage between the load and the box and it comes up as 120V, does that mean the missing ground wire isn't a problem?

US wiring.


texts:
I recently completed renovation of my bathroom. I expanded the space, changed plumbing and ripped out and rebuilt almost everything.

One thing I did not know then but I know now is that I needed a city permit to do all those changes. And I m not a licences contractor so I had no idea about those rules and regulations.

My question is what do I do next? How do I get permit now that work is complete?


texts: How can I remove a vanity backsplash without damaging ceramic tile?

texts:
My bathroom vanity has a backsplash that is firmly glued to ceramic tile. I believe that liquid nails or something similar was used for adhesive. I have tried prying with a putty knife and going around the edge with a box knife.

Is there a good way to remove the basksplash without damaging the tile?


texts: How do I hook up Honeywell wifi stat to 2 terminal boiler pump control with second transformer?

texts:
I hooked up a Honeywell RTH6500 stat to a Taco boiler pump control, a 2 wire system. It also will work for a Honeywell TH6000 series wifi stat. This only works to control the boiler pumps only - no A/C. The boiler pump control has no C terminal. I use the Rc and C terminals on the stat to power to stat. R and W to signal the pump relay.

This is what I did. Ran new cable. Replaced the old 2 conductor wire with 5 conductor (using 4 wires). Remove the Rc/R jumper on the stat (important!). Connect Yellow to Rc and Blue to C. Yellow will carry power. Blue is common. Connect Red to R and White to W. This will switch the pump relay. At the boiler control install a 110v to 24-28 v transformer. The transformer is not switched with the boiler so the stat stays on oven when the boiler is turned off. Connect the R and W conductors to the pump relay terminals. Connect the Y to the transformer 24v hot terminal (usually labeled R). Connect the B to the other (common) transformer terminal.

On the stat setup you need to identify the system type as heat only without A/C (system type 2 on my Honeywell stat). This worked in my case because I could run new wire and didn't need the A/C control. My problem was at the pump control panel and a second transformer to the A/C side of the stat solved the problem.


texts: Is it safe to adapt a 10-30 outlet to accept 1-15 plugs?

texts:
I have a 10-30 outlet (old dryer style, 240V with a neutral wire but no ground).  It's in a relatively inaccessible location where I can plug something into it, but it would be very hard to rewire the outlet.  I would like to plug some standard 120V non-grounded equipment into it, and it seems easy enough to grab a 10-30 dryer cord and use one of the hot leads and the neutral to hook up a standard 120V receptacle inside a box and terminate the other hot lead.  Are there any safety concerns with doing that, assuming I use a non-grounding 120V outlet (1-15 as opposed to 5-15)?

Thanks!


texts: What size wire 125’ to garage,will have 50 amp welding machine and led lights only use at the same time.Plan to use underground cable.


texts:
Any ideas what is this fabric tape on my cool air return ductwork?

High res close-up

Some of it is separating or worse falling off of the duct work on the cool air return to my forced-air gas furnace. The furnace itself was installed in 1994; the house at some time has a coal-burning furnace, so I'm assuming this ductwork was installed during the retrofit from coal to gas. I'm not sure if this is the first or second gas furnace since the retrofit, but that at least tells us that the fabric tape was applied sometime before 1994.

It occurred to me that this fabric might have asbestos in it, which is a horrifying considering that it's all over the ductwork inside and out. For what it's worth, I was wearing a half-mask p100 respirator when I cleaning it up.


texts:
I have a carpeted basement.  There is both pad and carpet over concrete.  There is a section I want to wall off and turn into a bedroom, it will not be load bearing.

I would prefer not to have to pull up the carpet to anchor the frame into the floor.  Would you recommend nailing through the carpet?  Will it be sturdy enough?

The follow on question to that is will baseboards go in over the carpet effectively or will they look off?


texts: Is there a UL listed relay for a line voltage device?

texts:
I once saw a device with full UL listing that was effectively a relay that could switch on or off a line voltage device. It looked something like a short extension cord but then had a low voltage wire coming off of it to control the setup.

Does anyone know about anything like this? I want to build a few DIY electronics projects but for insurance reasons I need the UL certification.


texts: What the heck are these L-shaped screws and how do I use them to hang my vanity mirror

texts:
I ordered a 50-pound mirror from Greece that is supposed to be wall-mounted. It came with no instructions and these things.

There are holes on the top left and top right corners of the mirror that look like this.

Presumably, the screwy part goes into a stud into the wall, but what are the black things for? Also why are the holes in the mirror so much bigger than the screwL


texts:
I have to install a washer on the second floor of a new home we purchased. I'm comfortable with the water lines, but I'm not 100% clear on the drain line and don't want to make a mistake.

There's an elbow joint on the floor behind the washer spot. I've got no idea what it is for. Then there's the hole next to the intake lines. Every tutorial/video I've watched says the hole in the wall for the drain line. What is the pipe on the floor for and does the drain line definitely run to the hole next to the water supply lines?

More photos


texts: Can I split a 3 wire circuit into 2 separate 2 wire circuits?

texts: I currently have a 3 wire running from my panel, red is connected to  a 15 amp breaker, black is connected to a separate 15 amp breaker. White is connected to the neutral bus. This is running to a split receptical. I want to install 2 extra outlets. Can I cut the 3 wire, and connect separate 2 wires Black to red and black to black and the connect all neutrals together?


texts:
I have a quad level home. The family room windows are pretty much ground level outside. If our neighbors walk by, they can pretty much see everything. Not  to mention our homes are pretty close.

We have film in the bathroom but, that seems to block a nice amount of light and obviously we get no privacy if the window is opened.

Any options available for some privacy that allow me to get some some light and air flow?


texts: Do I need concrete footings for a free-standing deck

texts:
I want to build a free-standing deck (no ledger board) which is only about 6 inch over the ground. The deck size is  22 X 14. After that I'm planning to put a metal permanent patio cover (20 X 14 x 10) with fiber panels on top . The metal construction of the patio cover will be attached directly to the wooden deck. The local code for the deck is 8 inch wide and at least 36 inch deep for the footings.

My questions are:

Do I need to do the concrete footings required by the code to install free standing ground deck?
Do I need to do the concrete footings for an extra support for the deck since the patio cover will be installed on top of the deck?


texts:
Can two LiftMaster 882LMW multi-function control panels be wired in parallel?  Has anyone looked at the PCB to see what it is populated with?

The opener is a LiftMaster 8365W.

Thank you.


texts:
Please note: I am obviously not a tradesman, otherwise I wouldn't be on this site asking this question. However, in five years of home ownership I have: re-roofed my garage, resanded all the hardwood floors in our upstairs, built a large fence for our back yard, built a patio for said back yard, done plumbing, done some electrical and recessed lighting, etc... In other words: A lot of times on this site I seem to get answers like "If you're even asking this question you should get a contractor/professional to do this!" And then I go ahead and I do "this" all by myself and it works out looking pretty darned good. All this to say: I'm 99.999% sure that I can do this project myself, even if I've never done this sort of thing before!

When we bought our home five years ago, the only note the inspector made was that one of the foundation walls in our basement was slightly bowing inward, and that within 3 - 6 years we would need to reinforce it with "I-beams".

Well I believe that time has come. Immediately below is a picture showing the bowing, and below that are pictures showing all the cracks that have started to form:

What kind of "I-beams" should I be using, and how many? This is a 1700 sq. ft., 2-story colonial house if that helps any. I am assuming I need to (or rather, should) space them evenly apart, yes?

Budget-wise, I need something that works, but don't need something that could lift up the moon. Any ideas as to where I can start looking?


texts:
I'm thinking about putting a mechanical chase in my home to connect the roof to the garage.  The chase would contain the flue for water heater and furnace, and possibly a dryer vent (separate from flue).  I'd also like a conduit for communication cables (satellite, internet, etc).  I don't know if there are codes I need to be aware of, and this type of thing is hard to search for on Yelp.

[EDIT] I'm defining "chase" as a type of chimney or shaft.  Honestly, I don't know that I'm using the word correctly.  My water heater and furnace are in the garage, which sits underneath the main living area.  Both appliances are gas and they share a flue which goes from the garage (think basement), up through the main living area (in a closet surrounded by drywall - no access), and out the top of the flat roof.  I would like to move this about 3' so that I can make the corridor/chimney/shaft/chase bigger, and add a dryer vent and some conduit for cables.

Would any general contractor be able to do this, or should I look for specific labor?
Is this something I could DIY?


texts: fishing wire from second floor to garage in first floor

texts: I was trying to drill a 1” hole on the horizontal beam in the wall to fish cable from second floor to garage in first floor. After drilling about 12 inch deep, I cannot go further anymore. Here is few pics about the hole and the wall structure, as well as the drill bit. Please let me know what is going on or if you have any better ideas. Thanks]1[]2[]3


texts: Does the NEC permit brazing for connections to ground electrodes?

texts:
I need to connect several copper-clad ground rods together with AWG 6 solid copper wire for lightning protection, and as part of the electrical service grounding. I also need to connect some 2.5" copper strap to this system.

Is brazing with an oxy-MAPP gas torch and bronze-copper brazing alloy allowed for these connections? Or perhaps a high silver alloy like Harris Stay-Silv 15? Seems more accessible than exothermic welding, and more durable and effective than mechanical clamps (especially for underground connections). But I've read contradictory information -- can someone clarify with a direct citation of the NEC or similar standard?


texts: If walls and floors aren't exactly perpendicular, which side should I align tile with?

texts:
I'm getting ready to tile my bathroom floor and tub surround.  Our house is older (about 45 years old) and the walls/floors aren't exactly perpendicular.  With that in mind, I'm wondering if I should align the tile to be exactly level with the floor/tub or align them so they're exactly level with the wall side (and slant slightly against the base).

Apologies if this doesn't make sense.  I'll try to get some pictures up but the difference isn't major here so it might not be noticeable in a wide angle picture.


texts: How can I reduce the sheen of Osmo Polyx hardwax oil?

texts:
I put on a first coat of Polyx on my fir floor. I am regretting the choice of Satin instead of Matte. I can see it is quite shiny already on the harder/denser parts of the boards and I imagine that the softer areas are going get shiny after another coat.
Short of sanding out the first coat I just did and starting fresh with matte, are there ways of dulling the shine on hardwax oils?


texts: Is this wall load bearing? Blueprints and photos attached

texts:
I would like to remove the highlighted wall on the second floor of my house in order to create a loft area.

Please help me identify if I'm dealing with a load bearing wall.


texts:
I have a gas insert fireplace. At the end of last winter, I shut off the pilot and closed the valve on the insert. I also closed the valve in the basement that feeds the lin going to the insert. The basement valve is about 30 linear feet away from the fireplace, and there are no other appliances between the basement valve and the fireplace.

This fall, I turned the valves back on, then tried to light the pilot on my fireplace again. I had to bleed air out of the line for about three minutes before the pilot on the fireplace would light.

Does this mean there is a leak in my gas line between the basement valve and the fireplace? The fact that I had to bleed the line for so long before gas came out again suggests that it had filled with air during the summer. If the valves on both ends of the line were closed, I don't see how this would have happened.

On the other hand, I don't fully understand how gas works. Could the gas that was left inside the line have "gone bad," or something like that, over the summer, causing me to have to bleed it all out until fresh gas reached my insert?

The line is CSST, by the way. There are no obvious leaks (I did the soap test on the joints), and I never smelled any gas in my basement over the summer (but I was not there every day).


texts: Is my two-way switch installation easily fixable?

texts:
I'm trying to fix an uncompleted installation of a two-way switch.

One switch, the light and all the wiring have been installed by someone else, with whom we can't have any contact soon.

I bought the second switch and tried to install it. I blindly tried different combinations and had those results:

With some wire combinations, it didn't work at all.
With some others, it worked 3/4 times, but in some positions, one switch didn't work until I reached the other one.
When bridging all wires of the second switch together, the first switch controlled the lamp (ON/OFF) -- but I now doubt it, maybe some of them wasn't wired correctly?

In no case was it working fully as expected, but I didn't try all combinations.

I have a basic understanding of the way it should work when everything is wired correctly.

I tried to systematically understand the consequences of inverting wires in all combinations, and came to the conclusion that it should either

work as expected
work 3/4 times
everything is shortcut and the light is always on

So, if I understand correctly, the wiring is wrong. The colors seem random and non-standard, so I can't rely on that.

Is this correct? Is this something I can easily fix?

UPDATE: each switch is connected to 3 wires coming out of the wall.

UPDATE 2: I'm living in Belgium, but the colors of the wires in my walls don't seem to be the national, or even less the European ones ;-)


texts: Painted walls showing darker when dry where painted with brush, than with roller

texts:
I've recently painted a room using primarily a roller, and for the edges (corners, skirting boards, ceilings), I've used a brush.

Where the paint was applied with a brush, it is considerably darker than where it was panted with a roller.

As you can see, there are dark "areas" around the wall join, and the joint with the ceiling. I'm shining a very bright torch as it demonstrates the problem better, hence the odd looking shadow at the bottom of the image.

I've asked a handful of very experienced people I know who have painted many rooms (all DIYers, but still), and they all concluded that the paint wasn't applied thick enough on the wall itself, and that actually the problem is not the joints, but the main area of the wall which was applied with a roller. Upon hearing this, I was slightly shocked since the dark areas actually look like they are not well adhered, but I played along and re-applied the whole room using a roller with a third, then forth coat, and the same problem persisted.

At that point, I decided I was right, and that it is the areas around the corners. I've now been out and purchased a much smaller roller, which has allowed me to cover the corner areas with great success, and now they have been painted with that the problem has disappeared entirely, except for the very thin slithers around the edges where I have a 5-10mm gap which I daren't touch with a roller, even if I mask, since I'm going to make a really big mess, the roller won't roll properly, it will grind on the ceiling (even masked) and leave streaks... It's just not a good move, I can feel it going horribly wrong and being very frustrating already.

The question I'd like to ask is how can I achieve the same finish using a brush as I did using a roller. I would imagine the problem is something to do with the pattern a roller leaves reflecting light in a certain way, since that would fall in line with my experiments so far. Naturally I could just roller them very carefully and re-paint the ceiling and skirting, but that defeats the object. I want them looking good, and I've done this before without problems.

Can somebody explain the physical problem, and possibly suggest a solution to it? I'm 5 tins of paint deep at this point, and it should've been a 2 tin job at most if I hadn't been misguided so badly.


texts: Transitioning run of pipe without reducing flow

texts: Starting with a collection basin in a small creek using a 1 1/2 inch pipe outlet.  Going downhill 100 ft vertically can I transition to a 1 inch pipe without reducing flow.


texts: Plumbing replacement - Drains, P-traps, and Vents

texts:
I'm having a bathroom remodel done that involves replacing the leaky old galvanized steel plumbing with PEX piping. I have zero plumbing experience, but I'm not convinced it's being done properly.
The photo below shows what the contractor installed for a separate shower and bathtub, along with a vent pipe. The shower and the tub each have a 90 degree bend that leads to a downstream running (U) trap and on to the main sewer pipe.

Do I need to make the contractor redo this? It's my understanding that both the shower and the tub should have a P-trap directly beneath the drain. There's 3 feet between the shower drain and the running trap that I worry will start to smell over time.

On top of that, the pipe downstream of the trap actually rises by about half an inch before it joins the sewer main. There's about 6 feet of pipe in the photo that will never fully drain. I'm no plumber, but that absolutely needs to be redone, correct?

Finally, is the vent acceptable? I think it's OK to have a shared vent for both, downstream of the shower and upstream of the tub, but want to make sure. The vent rises at about 20-30 degrees for about a foot before reaching the vertical vent pipe which runs up through the bathroom wall. Is this considered a "horizontal" vent, or is that kind of slope OK?


texts: What is the permissible distance from weather head to roof edge?

texts: I have been told by Southern California Edison (SCE), that my weather head is too far from the edge of my roof to put a new breaker box in place of the old one. what is the permissible distance from weather head to roof edge?


texts: How to test to see if a wall is straight for laminate flooring installation?

texts: Can you tell me how i can test to see if a wall is straight for laminate flooring installation?


texts: Is a power adapter with a loose prong safe to use?

texts: ok so while moving my couch I accidentally unplugged my adapter plug in a rough way and now one prong is messed up as seen in the picture it's shorter now and can be pushed up and down is this safe to use ?  can it be repaired the broken prong can't seem to stay in place


texts: Can I use a spray sealant to seal a leak in my radiator?

texts: one of my steam radiators has a leak on the bottom, away from the valve (has been checked, my husband has changed out the valve). can I use a spray sealant to seal this leak? (like FlexSeal)


texts: Can I use the original drain line after I move my washing machine twenty feet away?

texts:
I currently have a washing machine and dryer in the basement and wish to move them both upstairs. I can tap into the same drain line, but it will be about 20' from the old p-trap. Should I install a new p-trap upstairs and take the old one out, or can I have 2 in the same line, or is the one in the basement sufficient?

Also there is no vent in the basement for this drain line just a p-trap and about 3' of pipe sticking up; will I need a vent now that I am moving it upstairs?


texts: Locating toilet tank leak: flapper or flush valve or tanks bolts and washers

texts:
I have a toilet tank that's slowly leaking into the bowl causing it to refill periodically. I can rule out the fill valve having loose grit/obstructions causing it to fill slowly after it should have shut off.
The leak has to be one or more of the following:

flapper
bolts and corresponding rubber gaskets
flush valve gasket/nut

Here's a photograph of the tank:

I don't know if the flapper is leaking or one of the bolts or flush valve gasket. I was pretty sure that I had a waterproof seal on the bolts and flush valve because before I remounted the tank to the bowl I filled the tank with enough water to see if it any of those were leaking. (It leaked a bit at the flush nut before I carefully tightened the flush valve nut a quarter turn beyond hand-tight).
If the problem is with the flapper I probably won't need to pull the tank back off to fix. Otherwise I'm doomed to that again.
I've thought that if I tested the tank by filling with just enough water to cover the bolt heads/portion of flush valve below the flapper, I could see if it leaked. If not, then it would probably be the flapper.
Any other idea to figure out where the leak is without pulling the tank? Putting a dye in the tank won't help because the two bolt connections as well as the flush valve all drain into the bowl flange, so I'd see the leak as color in the bowl in any case.
EDIT: I wanted to add some information and correct some of my misunderstandings in the question I'd posted. Also, I think I have the fix for my case and will try to post a separate solution.
I think the toilet bowl I have is pretty typical. Here's what the tank connects to:

My belief that a leak in either bolt connection would leak into the larger hole and end up in the bowl is incorrect, especially with the gasket covering the flush valve nut. It is the case that correcting a leak from the bolts or the flush valve hole involves removing the tank.
I thought it was being smart when I had tested the tank with its new valves for leaks before reinstalling it on the bowl. What I didn't realize is that I did it wrong. The amount of water I used for the test (just covering the bolt holes) didn't cause enough pressure to test that the flush valve didn't leak. Later, testing with water up to the water line in the tank caused significant leakage around the flush valve.
An additional note is that I'd done a recent overhaul of the tank, both the fill and flush valves (using a kit containing both parts). So the tightening of the flush valve nut was something I'd done recently and not from the previous setup.


texts: How can I remove a laminate floor plank from underneath a door jamb?

texts: When removing laminate flooring, is it possible to remove a laminate floor plank from underneath a door jamb without damaging the plank? What is the best way to begin removal when the plank runs across the doorway and is tucked underneath the door jamb?


texts: Part of house has very low power electricity out of no where

texts:
Ive lived here for over 7 years without any electrical issues. It is an older house. Part of my livingroom has low to no power. If I leave one light bulb on, it will work, if I put 2-3 on, it is very weak. If I turn on another device within the proximity all power/lights go off in that area.
So far it seems to effect the chandelier, tv outlet and side outlet, kids closet and back outside light.
I didnt have any power at all in this part of the house and I thought a GFCI outlet that wasnt clicking was the issue, I changed it and now I got this low power issue. But now I completely remove that outlet which I thought was the issue and not leave the cables disconnected, everything continues to work on very low power so I am so confused. I checked the breakers in the panel and all seem fine.
What could be the issue here?
New day:
My progress so far has found 4 things affected: 2 outlets that are hot but no power, livingroom ceiling light and one closet light affected. The breaker seems to be connected to much more outlets and lights around the house but not affecting any of those. I have already switched out the outlets affected with new ones without any results. I have disconnected the livingroom light completely. During all this, another GFCI outlet in the garage went bad, I need to replace that now which leads to my bedroom and bathroom without power till then. Big mess but I feel like Im getting closer, Im going to try my best before calling an electrician. Let me know if anything I say makes some sort of sense to anyone! Thank you.


texts: How to deal with bedroom condensation/moisture on winter mornings?

texts:
In late September when the weather started cooling down here in Surrey BC Canada, we started to see morning condensation on our windows (newly installed last year):

My wife and I and our son sleep in the room, so presumably it is due to our breathing. I should double-check the humidity in the room when it happens again tomorrow, but I think it is about 60%. We do have a dehumidifier, but we find it too noisy to run during the night (even with a timer), so we just run it after we wake up.

Questions:

Is the humidity/condensation in the windows and walls a concern for mold growth, or is it sufficient to run the dehumidifier after we wake up and rely on the sun to dry up the windows?
How to prevent excessive humidity/condensation in the bedroom? It is cold, so we don't want to leave our windows partially open all night. And the dehumidifier is too noisy for us to run during the night. Would a silent moisture absorbing product like DampRid help? I heard that it won't help much.

I read that the key to solving humidity problems is improved ventilation. But how to improve ventilation in a bedroom with a closed door? The bathroom fan won't help because the door is closed. Opening a window won't work because it is cold outside. Is our only option an expensive Heat Recovery Ventilator that will vent to the outside while conserving heat? But aren't those as noisy as a dehumidifier?

I saw a similar question here (Why does significant condensation gather on my bedroom windows overnight?) but it just suggests opening the windows, using a dehumidifier, keeping the blinds open, putting bubble wrap on the windows (won't solve moisture getting into the walls though), and not worrying about it.


texts:
My husband and I have ripped down an old lath & plaster ceiling and we are trying to board it. However, my husbands Bosch drill keep switching itself from screw to hammer mode, which means the screws are not going all the way into the joists. Is an expensive repair needed or are we better off ditching the drill and buying a new one?

Many thanks


texts: Cut plaster hole, without hole saw, options?

texts: I need to cut one 6" hole for a can light into a plaster ceiling and don't want to spend the money on a hole saw. What are my best options?


texts: How can I repair the rust penetration in my air compressor?

texts:
I have a compressor that I use for pumping my bike, and now a hole came out of nowhere in the tank. See picture. And some orange powder also came out of it.

Question

Does there exist glue or similar that can close the hole?


texts: How should I store leftover latex paint?

texts:
Finishing a full repaint and I have extra paint I'll store in case I need touch ups later on.

What is the best way to store it for a few years? I don't mind buying new containers for it if that's appropriate.


texts: Replace pop-up with flip sink drain covers?

texts:
I had my house replumbed to code and put new sink basins in with pop up wastes. But I find that the water drains slowly, and the brand I'm using breaks easily so that they don't click in and out. I've already replaced one, and another has broken.

Also they drain better if I remove the plug bit by unscrewing it, though but not needing to removing the whole assembly as pictured.

Would I be better off with a flip waste like this one?

And is there a drop in replacement?

Edit: Are there any people who can answer on the physics of these things?  It seems a circular drain with a cap on it viz. popup waste, might cause more drainage issues then a flip waste due to the symmetry?  Or is there no difference?


texts:
I was going to add an outlet to a switched 1 outlet circuit thinking it would be pretty straight forward to run a wire from the switch box to a new outlet. The switch in question is a simple 2-way.

After cutting drywall for the new box, I examined the switch box I was going to connect to and was surprised I could not find any neutral wires (vintage 2013 house- PA).  Apparently power is supplied at the outlets and fixtures and only the black loop wires come back to the switches.  Not code as I understand it!!

Not a white wire to be found.. no wire nut bundles in the back - no whites to the other switches (3-ways by the way).  So am I screwed and have to find a way to run wire to some other place to get my neutral?

I am going to get ahold of the electrician who gave me the idea as I am beyond my understanding zone and either have him tell me what I am missing or have him do it

In the meantime - for my own sanity because I've wasted a good Sunday afternoon, can explain the logic of this method or some concept I am missing or a how-to?  The other switches are all 3-ways have 4 wires coming in:  1 red, 2 black and ground.   I see no way to use any of those to help me.

Otherwise my only other idea, probably not kosher at all, is to remove the switch and reconfigure the (now) switched outlet to feed power back to the switch-box where I would tie into it for the new outlet.

Whole Switchbox


texts: Is it possible to have the fireplace and chimney put up against a supporting/load bearing column?

texts:
I am planning to build a new house, but I have a question regarding a fireplace I want to have in my living room. I would like to know if it is possible to have the fireplace and chimney put up against a supporting/load bearing column? that is having the firebox and the chimney all the way up against the supporting column of the house.
Is there any danger that heat will make the support column weak?


texts: Bought a home, return air vents on ceiling have R19 insulation shoved in them?

texts: Checking filters and seeing what needs to be replaced, I opened the return air grate on the ceiling and what I find inside is a hunk of R19 insulation. Seems it should be some proper return air filter in here? Is this common?


texts: Reinforcing water damaged wooden fence posts, will it last, will it be strong enough?

texts:
Backgound

On a wooden fence I have several posts that are water damaged at ground level and the fence isn't holding strong anymore. The remainder of the fence is in very good condition.

I believe I can stabilise the fence with the following approach that will be cheaper to do than getting the each of the entire fence poles replaced and cemented in.

Proposed Idea

I am considering using 750mm x 75mm (2.4ft x 0.24ft) galvanised steel retaining wall posts and securing them to the existing wooden posts with galvinsed bolts (100mm x 10mm) with spring washers.

This way the 100mm bolt would be through each fence post, about 300mm (1ft) ( above ground level. 400mm (1.4ft) of the steel would be under ground and cemented in.

Question

Will this approach keep the fence strong enough? Or will the steel + bolt attached to the wood be a weakness point after a short period of time?

Is 300mm (1ft) of steel support above ground, 450mm (1.4ft) below ground enough to support the 2000mm (6.5ft) of fence post + fence above ground.

Costs

The cost of the steel is about $10 more per brand new wooden fence pole, but the effort to attach the steel is less than replacing the entire post.


texts:
I'll try to make this short so if more info is needed please ask.  I have a split level house. Two full baths and they are located right above/beneath each other. Periodically I have a back up in the downstairs bathroom which is the last drain connected to my main line. So when upstairs shower is used the downstairs one will begin to fill with water. Or when the downstairs one is used it just fills with water. Very slowly draining out.

I ran a 50ft snake though the downstairs shower assuming it would reach pretty much to the sewer where I believe the clog would have to be to be giving me the problem in having. I pulled some hair out but not enough to convince me I fixed the problem. However it seemed to do the trick for about two weeks. But I'm right back in the same situation now. Main line between house and street was redone due to tree root damage 5 years ago if that means anything. I can't believe roots would grow that fast or create the intermittent problem. I don't have much experience with plumbing but I believe I have common sense.

So just wondering what else it could be or could it have been that the snake and the tip of the snake were to small to really do the job correctly. Any and all info is appreciated.


texts: Could a group of lay volunteers build interior office space to code?

texts: I work for a small nonprofit.  We have a building with a large empty 2nd floor (old warehouse).  We'd like to subdivide it into offices, meeting space, etc. but we can't afford to hire a professional.  So we're trying to decide whether volunteers would be capable of this (under the supervision of a volunteer  professional contractor).  We'd still have a professional do the electric and plumbing.  Our city requires things to meet the ICC building code.  Would the type of work necessary to build walls, floors, doors, etc. be possible for a bunch of handy volunteers (teenagers and their parents)?  Or does this work require too much technical skill and training?


texts: Replace Switch that's currently wired Supply -> Fixture -> Switch with an Insteon Switch?

texts:
I'm trying to replace an electrical switch (controlling a whole house fan in attic that should only run when the downstairs windows are open to not suck air from the chimney) with an Insteon switch that can be controlled by Insteon controls (smartphone app/amazon echo).  (It's currently annoying as before bed, I hang out downstairs, have to walk to the attic, turn off the fan, walk downstairs, close the windows, and then go to bed and would be nice to turn off from downstairs.)

However, the switch for the fan is wired Supply -> Fixture -> Switch aka what is described as the "standard black-white setup" and with the images where wires are "coded black" here, where there are just two wires going into the switch a black wire and a white wire painted black at the end.  The Insteon device needs a neutral and ground, which do not seem to be present.

Could someone verify that I (or an electrician) needs to run new wires between the supply and the switch and then back to the fan, putting the switch between the supply and the fixture?  Or more specifically, there isn't another type of programmable switch that could work in this setup without rewiring (and preferably is compatible with Insteon hub and/or amazon echo)?


texts: What adapter do I need to connect this shower hose to valve?

texts:
I bought this valve which I believe is 1/2" IPS:

And I have shower hose that according to Home Depot compatibility board is "1/4 brass pipe" (or "3/8 brass pipe" with the adapter I have).

What adapter do I need to connect that hose to the valve? I guess I am confused how "brass pipe" standard is being called outside Home Depot.


texts: Identifying old armored electric wire and mounting new fixture

texts:
I am by no means an electrician, my experience does not extend past swapping old light fixtures for new. We just moved into a house that was built in 1907, so I'm not surprised by anything I've come across thus far, however I've heard mixed answers from people I know about this one.
I am trying to just change our dining room light, and upon removing the old fixture, I discovered just 2 wires. Both are covered in a cloth which I've read was common way back in the day. The fixture itself was mounted directly to some joists I'm assuming, as I see no box; only two holes through the wood where each wire comes out. One is wrapped in a thicker material further back.
It would obviously be best to hire a professional to rewire this I'm sure, but is there any clear and present danger to maybe just getting a pancake box and mounting it to the joists? And what's the best way to identify which wire is which, as the old light fixture's wires weren't color-coded either.


texts: Why don't I have hot water after shutting off the water supply for a while?

texts:
I have a 240 watt State Select 40 gallon water heater. I shut off the water supply for maybe 6 hours to replace faucet seats in the shower. I  turned off wrong breaker, and 2 days later no hot water at all.

What do I need to do to get my hot water heater working again?  Would I just need to replace the heating elements? Both elements?

I read also about dip tubes melting on other sites. Is this in my unit and  something I would need to replace?

I have replaced heating elements before so that's not new to me. The model number of my unit is EN6-40-DORS 110. Thank you.


texts:
I need to make a service for a duplex that I use to feed my 400amp service.

What gauge wire do you recommend for either aluminum and copper? Also, do you recommend one or the other?


texts:
I recently had some tree service done to my yard by a contractor, which required them to drive heavy machinery through the lawn. It was pointed out to me that they drove over and damaged an external "vent" pipe (that's the best I can describe it) that was sticking out of the ground. They claimed they would be back to fix it, but I'm not holding my breath that they'll return.

It was connecting down into the ground, but now it's cracked and can be completely removed. When removed, I can see additional sewage pipe work coming from my house and going down into the stinky abyss.

So my questions are:

What is this thing?
Obviously I want to get this fixed ASAP, but how urgently does this need to be fixed? Like if I don't do something could I end up with a diarrhea river flowing through my yard or in my house? I can definitely smell raw sewage when I stick my face down into the hole
If the contractors never return, is this something that can easily be fixed by 1 person, DIY style, or will another contractor be needed (and obviously filing an insurance claim).


texts: We have a broken step on our carpeted staircase.  How can I remove then refit the carpet without damaging it?  When the carpet has been removed, I will have to repair the step if possible, then refit the carpet.


texts: Why can't I lay tiles on an uneven floor?

texts:
My buddy and I have gotten into a bit of a dispute on facebook, here's what he asks:

I keep hearing tiling an unlevel floor will result in tiles coming up. This reason makes no sense to me. The only reason a stable but unlevel floor will have tiles come up is if the bond between the cement and floor or tile fails. This failure should have NOTHING to do w/levelness of the floor, correct?

My response goes something like this:

Here's the thing: Unless you use a LOT of paste underneath the tiles (which won't dry out properly so will crack fast) then you will have a potential for a lever situation once the paste that's under an uneven one does dry out (because it will). Then that will cause disruption under the other tiles. Can't you just lay another level of backerboard to try and get things mostly level?
The more the floor is uneven the more you will have to use extra cement, which means it won't dry out at the same time. Here, I'll go ask the pros for you to see what you can do since apparently you don't like my idea of asking them.

Am I on the right track? What can he do to reduce the risk of the tiles coming up if the original floor is uneven?
FWIW: He's refinishing an older townhouse that he purchased in Houston, TX (in case age/location makes a difference)
UPDATE:
after feedback from Tester101 (much obliged) the actual problem is a wavy and uneven concrete floor. It's for the living room, so there's not really any real risk of water.


texts: Why does my washing machine leak only during the spin cycle?

texts:
For the second time in a month, I found that my washing machine had flooded the kitchen floor (and part of the basement via the hole for the water line to the fridge).

The first time, I only noticed it at the end of the wash.  This time, I know it happened during the spin cycle because I had just been in the kitchen a few minutes earlier and hadn't seen anything out of the ordinary.

The washer is a Maytag LAT9706AAE and is at least eight years old (I bought it with the house) but has been reliable until this.  The load size was set between medium and large (it's on a continuous slider); Extra Rinse (which uses more water in the rinse cycle) was turned off and Extra Spin (which causes it to spin for longer) was turned on.

Why would it leak only during the spin cycle?  Is this something I could repair easily, or is it time for a new washer?


texts: My upstairs bathroom fans don't vent properly, how should I handle this?

texts:
I just noticed this weekend that neither of my upstairs bathrooms exhaust fans vent properly.  I hear the sound of the fan, but as google has told me, when I put toilet paper on the fan it doesn't stick.  I'm worried that I'll end up with problems if they don't properly ventilate.

So my question is, is this something I could reasonably fix myself?  If so, what should be my plan of attack?

Otherwise I'll just hire somebody


texts:
Recently we replaced some of the rotten and cracked true size 4 in x 6 in. posts under the house in crawlspace. The old posts were resting on concrete pads 24 in. x 24 in. and supporting a true size beam 4 in x 8 in.

The lumber we used is 4 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft. Pressure-Treated Landscape Timber , since we couldn't find any true size to match the old one. This lumber is rated as #3 grade but does not have any knots or cracks and labeled as not being used for structural purposes.

Should I be concerned about its strengths? I presume that is Douglas Fir.


texts: How much compaction should I get from crushed rock?

texts:
I was in the middle of moving rock into the patio area till the wee hour of midnight last night when I realized I knew my 4" mark for the paver base depth. But I have no idea how much the base is going to compact when I use a mechanical plate compactor.

The rock I'm using is 22A Stabilized Gravel. Any ideas?


texts: Adding height to an exsisting deck support pole

texts:
I have a small 5'x 8' deck platform that is 30" lower then my main deck. I would like to raise that platform to the existing height of my main deck. The platform has 4" x 6" supports set in concrete and are less then a year old.

How can I add to these supports to raise that platform?

Removing the platform is not a problem, that has already been done. I would just like to reinstall it at the new height without setting new poles..thanks


texts: Matching new oak floor planks to old planks

texts:
For reasons not worth explaining I had to replace some oak floor planks.  The new planks aren't quiet flat and are obviously the wrong color.  I don't plan on refinishing the entire floor right now, any suggestions of easier things I can do for the time being.

[EDIT] Added picture, better late than never:


texts: Help Critique deck post and beam location

texts: please critique my deck design and post locations. One side of the deck will be attached to multiple ledger boards, another sitting on the beam with 1 feet overhang. Deck is at most 1 1/2 feet of the ground at some places. Grey area is existing concrete steps for the door on the right to them. Joists are 12 inch of center, 2 x 6 sized for a composite deck


texts: Carport Roof - Ridge Beam/Board vs Gussets

texts: I am building a 20' X 24' carport and was trying to decide if a ridge beam / board was necessary, or could i simply use gussets to connect the roof rafters. I'd like to avoid using a 24' beam if possible. The design is using 4 x 4 posts with 2 x 6 rim joist around. The roofing will be a metal roof on purlins (no sheathing). So, gussets or ridge beam (or does it matter)?


texts: Does my mechanical room need ventilation to the exterior?

texts: Sorry for the confusing post. I don’t have a manual as the prior owner didn’t have it. If I understand correctly, a boiler room in a residential home requires a vent for fresh air. This boiler room previously had 2 vents on the interior wall. As these two vents were opened and leading to the home, you can hear the boiler and water tank noises loudly if in the basement. As part of the remodeling, these two vents were removed and we are considering placing a vent right above the pipe in the photo I have shown. I’m asking if there is a safety concern with having a vent leading to outside.


texts:
The most feasible method of finishing all the hardwood in the home I am living in is one room at a time. The rooms all connect to a hallway.

Will there be an ugly area (if I do one room's hardwood and a section of the hallway by the door and then refinish the rest of the hallway at a different time) at the joint of the two refinished floors?

I am sanding down to the wood and then coating with polyurethane.


texts: How can I avoid excessive junk on inside junction, when cementing PVC sprinkler pipe?

texts:
I'm cementing some schedule 40 PVC pipe using the best instructions I could find ( http://www.tchristy.net/pdf/ChristysTechManual_v5_English.pdf ).  The outside of each joint looks fine, but inside there's often a mess of plastic scrapings, PVC primer and PVC cement:

The dross could clearly affect water flow or clog a filter.  I won't use PVC pipe for drinking water because of lead (See http://chej.org/2013/09/pvc-pipes-bringing-toxic-lead-to-drinking-water/ ), but for those that do, the bits of plastic in the water could be an issue.

I've already tried rotating less while inserting, but that's not always practical. I'm cutting pipe with a ratcheting PVC cutter and deburring with sandpaper.

How can I get better looking interior joints?


texts: How should I refinish vintage wooden closet doors?

texts:
I have old closet doors that look like this:

The lacquer is worn out and aged and they look really bad but there are no visible scratches or dents. I am thinking of replacing the aged hardware and removing the lacquer and applying a brand new layer of the same. I would like to keep the natural look but I would like to get rid of the shiny look.

What are the recommended steps to do this? I have just bought a belt sander and a sheet sander for removing that layer of lacquer.


texts: Repairing Damaged Drywall Around a Bathroom?

texts:
I have drywall in my bathroom that has started to flake and has become damaged over a few decades of use over a shower that didn't have an extractor fan.

I'm currently in the process of planning out the new extractor fan project, but I'm not sure what to do about the drywall. Here is a picture of the situation:

I've seen videos of drywall failure modes similar to this, and their solution was to use a 6" putty knife to scrape off the hanging drywall until the remainder was totally flat and then coat it with 20-minute joint compound.

I'm not entirely certain if that would work here because (As others pointed out in similar questions) joint compound is water soluble.

What is the best solution to this problem, and what tools would I need to implement it? (I'm kind of new to drywall, although I do have a 6"/12" steel putty knifes and a mud pan)

NOTE: I think that this differs from (repair drywall in the shower) as my drywall is not water damaged in the same way, and thus likely won't have the same answer (To the best of my knowledge), and is also different from (How do I repair drywall around a bathtub?) due to not being crumbly and other types of damage to the drywall being done.


texts: Adding Undersized Fuse to Doorbell Circuit?

texts:
So recently my doorbell button got stuck and it burnt out both the electromagnetic coil in the chime and the transformer. As I'm replacing everything I was thinking that I could add fuse to prevent a rogue button from causing so much damage again.

The transformer is 16VAC 10W and I measured the voltage as just over 20VAC. The chime consists of an electromagnetic coil that drives a pin hitting a chime (separate coils for the front and back buttons). It claims it's suitable for a 16VAC 10W or 16VAC 15W transformer.

Let's say that x amps run through the circuit when the button is depressed. Normally the button is depressed for very short periods of time (let's say <10 seconds for an enthusiastic doorbell ringer). I've read that a fuse can withstand more than its rated current for a period of time depending of how high the current is over the rated current... can I undersize a fuse such that the blow time for an x amp load would be 10–15 seconds? Would sizing the fuse be so finicky as to be not worth it?


texts: I've recently noticed an issue with the hot water in my shower.  After I start the shower water flow and wait for the warm water to start coming out, it stays warm for about a minute, then it gets luke warm.  At this point, it doesn't matter what I do with the control knob (I have a Mixet valve, FYI) - all the way hot, but it stays the same temperature.  I thought it was the water heater, but as a test, I left the tub hot water on during my shower and the hot water flowed the entire time.  It's like some other draw of hot water needs to be on in order for it to stay warm.  So then I thought it was the valve, which really made no sense to me but I replaced it anyway because it's easy and cheap.  The problem remains.  Any help is very much appreciated.


texts: 3 way switch receptacle to recessed light

texts:
My current room has a 3 way switch that controls the bottom plug of the receptacle (bottom plug is controlled by switch, top is always ON). I want to do recessed lights in that room with no previous installed ceiling light. I looked at the wiring and is confused as there seem to be an extra 14/3 romex cable which is supplying power to another receptacle. So my question is, can I use the 2 bottom wires that is connected to the receptacle and pigtail them so I have a HOT, neutral, and ground. This way the switch will control both the lights and the plug?

EDIT: I just thought about something else, Since the top is always HOT can I buy a new receptacle and disconnect the two wires on the HOT end. This way the new receptacle will always be hot and I can use the 2 wires left on the bottom receptacle for the recessed lights? This way I can still use the dimmer switch for the lights.


texts:
I need to remove a Schlage double-cylinder deadbolt from our front door. Problem is, there is no visible way to remove it. There is a hole on one side and a pin with no head on the right. This deadbolt does not have caps covering screws not same as another user's post

I've tried this and that, but nothing worked. I've enclosed a picture of lock (hole on left and pin on right)

The only person who might have know anything is no longer with us, any ideas with how to remove deadbolt without destroying door would be appreciated.


texts: Replaced a split circuit switch (Dishwasher/Disposal). breaker comes on when switched but trips when turning either appliance on. Tab is removed, all wires connected properly, but breaker still trips


texts: What do I do when a horizontal rod for a popup drain is too short?

texts:
My contractor just installed a Delta Arzo Two Handle Widspread Lavatory 3586LF into a Kohler Persuade Curv top and basin lavatory, K-2956-8.

The problem is that the horizontal rod for the popup drain is not long enough to connect to the lifting rod strap. This is because the drain is too far from where the faucet is mounted in the sink.

What is the typical solution to this type of problem?


texts: Can I install a floor length window on the second floor?

texts: I live in Hillsborough, North Carolina. I am redoing a bedroom and would like to install a floor length window but I'm not sure if it will meet the regulations. The width is 31.5 inches and the length would be about 72 inches


texts: Suspended platform hanger support spacing calculation

texts:
I am building a 8' x 4' storage shelf that I would like to hang from my ceiling. The frame of the shelf is constructed using 2" x 4". I have 2 x 4 cross supports every 24 inches. The shelf attached to the frame is a 1/2" OSB board.

Can someone help me determined how many hanging supports are needed to hang this from the ceiling. I am not sure of the calculation to figure this out. My plan is to suspend this with 3/8 threaded rod which will couple with a 3" lag screw. I would like to be able to support 600lbs.


texts: Should I leave splices when pulling new thermostat wire?

texts:
My existing 4-wire thermostat cable comes out of the furnace, and each of the wires is wire-nutted to another wire. That then goes to the thermostat.

I'm going to pull new cable to support a smart thermostat. Should I keep the splices, or should I run one continuous cable from the furnace all the way to the thermostat? If I should leave splices, should I put them all into a box?

The furnace was replaced a couple years ago, and I'm unsure if the splices were a result of that or a result of updated codes or best practices.


texts: Crack between brick backed plaster and plasterboard backed plaster

texts:
I have a room where there is a large crack running from floor to ceiling along one of the walls. To the left of the crack it sounds solid and appears to be plastered onto the side of the chimney, to the right it sounds hollow and I believe it a stud wall with plasterboard.

Both sides seem very solid with no detectable movement in them. What is the best way to repair this crack?


texts: Need tips on running 230 in detached garage

texts:
I'm looking for some direction here. I have a detached garage that already has power supplied to it, and the structure is divided into garage space and a woodworking shop by a partition wall. The garage space is all exposed joists, beams, and studs, but the shop area is all finished. The panel is in the garage on an unfinished wall. I want to run a 20A 230V circuit to the partition wall for a single 230 receptacle, and an electrician has told me there's enough spare amperage to run the circuit. I'd have a run of about 15' to the wall, and then over a few more feet to drop it down the wall (the top of the wall is also exposed in the garage side, but is finished with OSB).

I spent some time as an apprentice electrician about a decade ago, so I have the tools and confidence, a healthy respect for the lethality of electricity, can generally read and understand NEC code citations, and I'm an anal retentive perfectionist who doesn't want to get sued or have anyone get killed.

So these are my questions:

Should I use THHN in PVC rather than NM cable? If THHN, could I make
a run up the wall and across the joists into a junction box, and
then run NM down the wall?
What's considered "workmanlike" practice when running conduit up
studs and across / parallel to joists?
I'm planning to use 12 gauge conductors for a 20A circuit - I'm
under the impression this is what's advised? A dust collector is the only thing that'll be running on this circuit.


texts: Why aren't there more PVC gutters in the U.S.?

texts: I am originally from Europe and you do see a lot of PVC gutters in my country, especially in construction that is done on a tight budget.  It seems to me PVC would be a legit material to make cheap and durable gutters.  How come you don't get to see (m)any here in the States?


texts: So, we have a 65" TV that we are thinking about mounting above our fireplace.   The fireplace is made of brick and has a wooden mantel.  Is it really a bad idea to mount the TV above the fireplace?   I mean obviously I know that heat doesn't do anything good for electronics but we would, at most, have gas logs in the fireplace.  I just wasn't sure just how bad an idea it was.  Thanks.


texts: What SEU cable size is required for 100 amp?

texts: I need to replace the service cable from the weatherhead to the meter box at my mother-in-laws house. No conduit involved. From the meter to the breaker panel inside was replaced at some point and is still in good condition. I've searched and from what I have read 2/0 al SEU would be required. Is this correct?


texts: How can I remove skunk smell from house?

texts:
I apologize in advance if this is off-topic but I'm in need of some help and not sure who to ask.  Our dog got blasted by a skunk and went inside the house.  We've got the dog under control but the house still smells awful (I think some of the oil dripped on the floor).

Are there preferred/recommended techniques for getting rid of the smell in the house?  Thankfully we have laminate floors instead of carpet but I'm concerned about the smell seeping into the walls and furniture.  Do I need to get industrial degreasers? I've heard that a combination of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dish detergent might help.


texts: How to clean cement smear from concrete?

texts:
During a walkway pour some concrete residue smeared on the existing landing pad and entrance (both old concrete) causing a dirty appearance.

Is there a way of cleaning a smear of concrete from old concrete slab underneath?


texts:
I can hear what sounds like pressure building and then it stops.  It's almost like the sound of water being turned on but there is no water running.  Sometimes it's louder then others and the length of time varies but it is never longer then a minute.

I have city water through my township and there is a gauge in the basement hooked to the mainline.  When the noise occurs I can see the pressure build to almost 100 psi and then it just releases.  This happens multiple times throughout the day.

I have tried bleeding the pipes thinking that there is air in them but that didn't seem to help.  Also the water flow is normal and never fluctuates.  I am at a loss for what to do.

I can call a plumber but I am almost certain that it won't happen while they are hear and I am not paying top dollar for someone to stand around and wait.  The last plumber I asked said it was a leaky toilet and gave me a hack to determine which one but neither seem to have a problem.


texts: How can I prevent sewer gas coming from the drain of an infrequently used shower?

texts:
I have a shower stall in my basement guest unit.  As it's only used occasionally, sometimes the P-trap dries out.  Other than remembering to add water periodically, if I haven't had any guests or I anticipate a long period without use, can I fill it with oil or antifreeze? What are my options?

Is there something I can do to avoid having the trap dry out during intermittent use? Or is there an alternative type of trap I can install during an upcoming renovation?

I'm also considering removing my wash basin (it gets moldy and takes up a ton of room) and adding a stand pipe to catch my AC condensate, but I am worried I'll experience similar issues.


texts: Surge Protector shows 'L' & 'N' reverse and 'N' open

texts:
I just shifted to new house and I plugged in the surge protector that I use for my PC into one of the sockets.

The socket switch was off, while the main circuit was on (main power). And the surge protector shows three lights - indicating L and N reverse; and Open Neutral.

Then I plugged the surge protector in all sockets in my house and all shows the same status. This indicator shows the same status irrespective is the socket switch whether OFF or ON

Is it normal?
Should I avoid using appliances? (until corrected)


texts: How to dry dampness beneath tiled shower floor?

texts:
Shower floor is 1 inch honed marble and walls are honed marble subway.  Proper pan with an appropriate pre-slope and cement board walls all coated with multiple coats of liquid waterproofing membrane.  Entire shower grouted and then sealed 7 days later by the homeowner.  All changes of plane received siloconized caulking.  After first use it was noted that certain tiles and grout lines were darker than others and stayed darker.  An investigation revealed that on the vertical wall of the built in shower seat opposite the shower head (about 6 inches above the floor) there was a one inch gap in the grout line.
The supposition is that water makes it's way in there and then flows down in a sort of meandering line under the tiles and to the drain soaking the grout and tiles along the way from underneath.  Careful inspection revealed no other gaps in grout or caulk lines.  It is also possible that the homeowner missed some small areas with the sealer.
After 7 days of no usage with a high powered fan moving air across the tile there is little change.  The missing grout is not yet repaired and the shower has not been resealed in the hopes that the moisture will work it's way up and out.
Is there anything further that can be done to speed the process?  Perhaps a dehumidifier in the shower?


texts: How do I safely transport a heavy item downstairs?

texts:
I want to put a freezer in our basement. The models I'm interested in weigh around 60-75kg.
The shops will happily deliver the item to our front door, but from there, I'm on my own. I'm a 75kg middle-aged male (IT guy, average "white-collar worker" strength). My goal is to get this thing safely into the basement, without hurting anyone or damaging anything.
I have never tried to transport an item this heavy myself. My current plan is as follows:

Put this thing on a stair climber hand truck. I have this model, which is rated for 120kg.

Use tension belts to fix the package on the hand truck.

Put the kids in front of the TV to get them out of the way; ask my wife walk in front of me to open doors, clear the way and help if needed.

Use the hand truck to slowly move the freezer down the stairs.

Any other precautions I should take? It feels wrong to order professional help just to move an item down a flight of stairs, but I'm prepared to do that if my plan is unsafe or unfeasible. (Who would I call for something like that? A moving company?) Due to the Covid lockdown and social distancing rules, I'd prefer not to ask friends from other households to come over and help.


texts: Changing out interior doors in house.  All of them.  Going from brown crap to white 6 panel.  I have two hinges on each door.  Would like to buy new door with predrilled knob hole, cut it down correctly to size, and then attach hinges to it.  Only issue I have so far is not really sure how I should cut out for the hinges.  I have read use a chisel.  I am fine with that but do see how I can be even going across.


texts: How can I replace the short(screw connecting) wire for a middle-of-run outlet replacement?

texts:
I’m referring to the very short wires the come from the wire groups pigtail directly to the terminal screw. The wires that was in the old outlet before were decades old and torn. I thought since they were not being fed through the wall like the others, it won’t be an issue to get more wire. But I don’t know wether I should pull more wire through or cut a price off any existing wire since I’m unfamiliar with this wiring over

Here


texts:
My toilet won't flush - it does what I call water exchange. I ran a hose down vent stack and it rinsed out as it should. Cleared all holes in bowl, put a rock in the tank. When it flushes, it fills bowl just below 3/4" of coming up and over bowl. It swirls but with little force. As tank begins to fill, bowl continues to fill.

I have always thought water level in toilet bowel was too high. It will flush when I use a bucket of water.

Side note: my house is set with a grinder and pump to get to city sewer - very slight slope, not noticeable. Checked flapper.


texts: I am looking for the name of a type of glue (I think brand recommendations are not permitted, so not that) which will seal an electrical connector to the socket it is plugged into in a reversible and temporary manner. I've scraped this stuff off before and it is usually some form of yellowish translucent gum. The exact use case is sealing a USB plug to a waterproof USB solar-powered power pack (and the other end of the cable to the similarly waterproof thing I'm plugging it into), so this can be used outdoors.


texts: I grabbed sched 80 heavy wall PVC conduit for my run to the shed, but later noticed the elbows are sched 40.  Is it legal to use them together (mixed in the same conduit run) in the trench or anywhere else (eg thru the garage)


texts:
Recently the water heater (installed upstairs) had a leak so I disconnected it and removed it. There is a ball valve shut off on the cold line into the tank - I closed it to be able to open the main house shutoff, thinking I could at least use cold water in the house until I had a new water heater.

However, the hot water pipe continued to discharge water, roughly a gallon per hour. I had to open a hot water faucet downstairs for the night so at least it would drain gracefully. The day after I installed a bypass pipe from the cold to the hot water and opened the shutoff - this obviously stopped the leak and allowed me to use the dishwasher and the washing machine, albeit with reduced performance.

In the process to replace the water heater I inspected the plumbing system and I could not really find out why a small amount of water was going from the cold to the hot side. What could be a reason for this? I hope I was able to explain the problem.


texts: How can I stop my fridge from collecting water?

texts: We have a Kenmore fridge (15 years old) with the freezer on top. The freezer is having a problem where the drain (I presume for when it defrosts) keeps filling with ice and then the entire bottom of the freezer fills with ice and begins dripping water into the fridge below. (similar to this question) We have defrosted and cleared the drain and the problem persists. We are to the point were we need to deice the drain nearly every week or water starts to drain to the fridge section. What are we missing for a more permanent solution?


texts:
I need to take down this awning for the winter. It's 20ft x 10ft. The 20ft side (the side on the right in the picture, adjacent to the house) is wrapped around a 20ft-long steel beam. The three other sides are held in place by a long cord  woven through eyelets.

How do I take down such an awning? I'm guessing that the side with the beam should be detached first and unrolled down gradually while the cords are undone slowly. Is this about right? I'm also guessing that this is a task for two folks capable of carrying a rather hefty load, and it should not be attempted solo. Is that right?


texts: Plumbing a modified S/P Trap? With a Vent on the ‘P’?

texts:
I have a couple plumbing questions.
I’m adding in a washing machine and sink. My space is tight and in the right bay where the Sink Drain is above is an electric panel. The part out of the wall I was going to leave out of the wall. As it will be under the free standing sink. The exit drain line will be enclosed in a chase. Of the the vertical pipes Left is the washer (2” Pipe, 6” of FF and 18”-30” in length). The right is the vent to roof.
I understand about the P-Trap Arm length and the distance to vent needs to be twice the size of the pipe. But that’s typically for the Vent on the other side of the drain line. The way this is plumbed (mocked up) fits nicely in the wall, but I didn’t know if I needed the 4” separation as the vent is on the other side of the ‘S’ trap.
I wanted to be sure that It would not cause a siphon.
Thanks!


texts: What tools will help me remove an object from a toilet's siphon jet?

texts:
My toilet has discontinued Korky flapper, which is designed with a plastic ring that clips to the bottom of the flapper's air cavity.  Today, this plastic ring separated and is now resting at the bottom of the toilet inside the siphon jet, which is causing the toilet to not flush properly (no siphoning power, i.e. whooshing).

The ring is too large to pull through the siphon jet hole, though the plastic is malleable.  I've been trying to break the ring, and to force it through the hole with no luck.  I think I might need to try to melt the ring with a soldering iron, but only after I've pumped out all the standing water.

What other techniques or tools are available to help remove obstructions in the siphon jet?


texts: What kind of mineral deposit is this? Very stuck shower head

texts: Trying to remove and replace this very crappy shower head after noticing the water flow was strange. I manage to remove part of it but could not unscrew this base part after buying a wrench, applying/soaking with vinegar, heating it up etc. I soaked the other piece with vinegar for about 18 hours now and it has not really done anything (softened or dissolved anything). Can someone tell me the best way to remove this? I really just want to replace the shower head with a new one that has a filter


texts: Quartzite counter installation progress Feedback

texts:
Just last year I had concrete counter tops that turned out bad. So not we are fully redoing the project and I got a contractor. The contractor said he does countertop I stalls all the time. He also said on occasion he does the Fabricating.

So he picked up my slab and went to work on it. The only information he asked me for was which pieces did I want where? And how do I want my edges? Informed him where and told him I wanted the square edges.

Just a little ways through I noticed some imperfections that I am very concerned with.
1. There are seams in the lip. He did not do a 45 degree angle cut.

There was a portion not cut long enough which he had to ad another piece. It doesn't look professional.
There are burned blemishes from the sanding buffing or polishing process.
One of the edges is very very rough. It is not smooth like the top of the counter.

He is not done yet, but I think three are some issues and major flaws. I'm not sure if all my pictures will load. But please based on what you see, what do you recommend.

What should I do? How would you handle it?

Please provide sound feedback and view the progress pictures.

Thank you for your help.


texts: Why is my neutral wire connected to a breaker?

texts:
I'm going to be running a new electrical line to a new shed. I opened up my breaker box and came across what's pictured below.
The top 20A breaker goes to our well pump, and the 15A goes to the shed.
If I follow the wires, the neutral wire from the well pump (which is the back connection) connects to the 15A shed's breaker. Is that normal?


texts: How should I maximize soundproofing when installing new hardwood flooring?

texts:
I have  1000 sf of subfloor over finished basement in a 1970s two story residence. We want to achieve maximum sound proofing on this floor with open den/living room /foyer. Unfortunately I did not add soundproofing to the basement ceiling five years ago.

We are set on using a mid range engineered 5 inch by 3/8th inch plank. We  want contractor to pull up all carpet so we can address 1/2 tongue & groove subfloor and seek to treat certain squeaks and gaps and also pull up every other row and install Roksul in cavities- I think i can place /push them in.

Then we want an underlayment with best acoustic properties  say ECO ULTRA 980  or Floor Muffler but this decision gets confused by literature regarding a need to glue it down with say normal glue or not. Then install wood planks with more expensive glue Roberts 1535 at say $170 for 4  gal pail. The  various posts say  no need to glue down underlayment all. The acoustic glue is expensive I need  5  4 gallon pails. Any experiences?