texts: How can water be diverted away from the street curb in front of my house?  Several of my neighbors are draining water from their sump pumps onto the road and it runs down the curb and collects in front of my house.  Leaves and water are constantly filling up the curb in front of my property.  The opposite side of the street is dry but there's always water sitting in the curb in front of my house, even days after it has stopped raining.  It's frustrating to open my mail box and accidentally drop a piece of mail into the water.  Also had to ask my newspaper delivery person to stop throwing the newspaper on my driveway since it's constantly wet from run off from the neighbor's sump pump. Would it help to spread gravel or rocks along the curb?  I live in the city limits and there are sewer drains at various locations along the streets.


texts: What's better aluminum tape or mesh tape w/mastic for sealing dryer vent?

texts: Running dryer vent exhaust out of side of dryer.  Using solid 4" aluminum duct pipe.  To seal connections is it better to use regular HVAC aluminum duct tape or mesh with mastic.  Have used both in HVAC systems but not in running dryer vents.  Any shortcomings or foreseeable problems with either.  Thanks


texts: Proper Way to Splice Into Existing Electrical Line

texts:
I'm installing recessed lighting in my living room and want to get power from a line that runs through my attic that provides power for a few other overhead lights in my house. What's the best way to do this?

If I cut the line, I can put this cut inside a work box and then do lots of connections with lots of wire nuts. I won't have a lot of old line to work with, though, and this old line that I cut will have to be reconnected with a short jumper line (there won't be enough slack to reconnect the line to itself after cutting). This seems ... "inelegant." With a 12-2 line with ground, this seems to require 6 wire nuts. Is there a better way?


texts:
I have a left/right sliding window in kitchen as pictured below. I want to add a standard indoor window fan positioned at the top. This fan has screw holes on the side to screw into sides standard window.
I was contemplating putting thick one inch thick board at the bottom and rotate fan 90 degrees and attach using screw holes to screw into wood.
What issues could arise?
What is a better method?


texts: Changing radiators to radiant wall heating

texts:
In my bedroom/study I have only a radiator as heating. The problem is that the water flow is controlled by the thermostat in the living. This means that around wintertime my room has a big change in temperature. It is hard to control the heating of my room and because I use my bedroom also as a study I spend a lot of time in it. The problem is that once the temperature in the living in 20°c the thermostat stop the heating of the radiators and so it stops the heating of my room. That way sometimes my room only achieve a poor 14°C which is not comfortable to use as a study. But If I turn up the radiator in my room higher, there is a chance (it only happens a few times) that it reaches 21-22°C which is to hot for me to sleep.

I thought about a solution: if I changed the radiator (most of it is just heating air in stead of giving radiant heat) into a radiant heating system, it could solve my problem. I was thinking about a system like a 'heat wall', that's where they placed heated water lines against the wall and then place cob over it. But that system is designed for low temperature heating systems, in which the water is far less hot than it is when used for radiators. But I think that if I make like an extra cob wall of like 20 cm thick, I could store some of that hot water heat for when the thermostats stops the hot water circulation. That way the hot water used for the radiator would not result in an extreme hot wall surface, but it would result in a buffering radiant heating wall.

I was wondering if this idea can work or if there will be major issues. My idea for the moment is: replace the radiator by a water pipe network and then put cob around it. Or is there a better way to do it?


texts: Plastic tailpiece on brass bathtub drain?

texts:
I have a new tub that came with the drain & overflow pre-assembled, but no tailpiece. I found a plastic tailpiece for $5 and I would like to know (1) if it's OK to use on this drain and (2) how to install it correctly. (The tailpiece packaging just says "plastic"; can I assume since it's black that it's ABS?)

The drain itself looks like brass. I have access underneath the tub, so no problem there.

The tailpiece came with a nut and two washers. Is this how I should fit them together (see photo)? Should I apply putty or anything else (I think not)? I tested just the nut on the drain, and it seems like a snug fit. [EDIT: When I try to assemble everything as shown, it doesn't fit because the nut threads can't reach the threads on the drain. So basically, I have no idea how to connect this tailpiece.][EDIT #2: After watching a YouTube video "How to replace a sink tailpiece" (StackExchange won't let me link directly), I removed the extra washer that I had slid down the tailpiece. See the red X's on the photos. Now it fits. Hopefully there won't be any leaks. Comments are welcome!]

Then of course there is the P-trap. I'm just planning to slip the tailpiece into the adapter and tighten. I'll probably shorten and debur the tailpiece first, though.

Does this all look OK? Would a brass tailpiece be safer (less likely to leak)? I'd like to avoid problems as much as possible. Thanks so much for any advice!


texts: wire size for a 150 amp sub panel from a 150 amp breaker added to a 400 amp main panel

texts: I have a 400 amp Siemens main panel it has a 200 Amp breaker to the house and a secondary 150 amp breaker added to run power to a metal building approximately  150 feet from the main. what size wire should i use to compete this? Also grounding the panel to the building and to the ground rod what size wire would be adequate? And can i use a bolt to run thru the base rail of the building to complete the ground for this?


texts: Copper Water Pipes used as Electrical Ground

texts: I am replacing a section of copper water pipe that burst behind tiled shower wall. Since the pipe run is along an exterior wall subject to winter temperatures, I'm considering replacing this section with PEX given it is less prone to freezing. But in this house (built 1959) copper water pipes are used as electrical grounds in multiple above ground locations, i.e., where 2prong receptacles were replaced w/3prong receptacles w/the addition of a copper wire (green/insulated)-1 end wound under green ground screw on receptacle, other end bound by a grounding clamp to a nearby cold water pipe. Splicing in PEX will interrupt the "continuous ground". Is PEX therefore  contraindicated or is there a way around this?


texts: How to repair this hefty wooden fence gate?

texts:
Our place has a large wooden fence and gate. There's a gate for people, and then the fence itself can actually be opened by pulling up a latch from the ground. The gate for people ("door"?) has become unhinged this year and I want to figure out how to best repair it. Photos below to show damage:

Here's the gate itself. The hinge at the bottom-left is where the damage is.

Close up of the bottom hinge's current condition.

Another view of that busted bottom hinge.

It looks like the hinge itself is undamaged, and it's simply that the screws lost their bond with the wood, either due to the wood deteriorating and/or too much force on those screws. That bottom horizontal 2x4 is pretty solid (aside from the torn up screw-holes).

I'm thinking to reconnect the bottom hinge back to that same horizontal 2x4 with longer screws and in slightly different screw holes. I'm not sure how to avoid the same problem happening again however. Should I first beef up the bottom horizontal 2x4 by screwing in another piece of wood on top of it (but that would tilt the door)? Should I add another hinge, but where (there's no horizontal 2x4 in the middle, and if I added one, it wouldn't extend across the door)? Can I add another latch on the right side of the door to take off some pressure from the hinges when it's closed?

Currently, when the door is closed it leans against the 6x6 beam it latches to, and when the door opens it has to be held up by the user or its latch-side will scrape against the ground. I presume both of those things happen because of the broken hinge.

Note that the 6x6 beam the door latches to is starting to bow a little bit, as are other 6x6s supporting this fence/pavilion (similar to this). We've asked carpenter and engineer friends about it and they said those posts should be OK for quite a while, but it does worry us (they're big, and all this wood is heavy and on one end attached to the house itself!) I share all that in case it affects options for supporting the gate.


texts: Can you replace upper kitchen cabinets without removing tile/glass backsplash?

texts: Can upper kitchen cabinets be removed and replaced with new ones without damaging a tile or glass backsplash? If not, when the backsplash is removed, can it be done without damaging the granite countertop?


texts: How do I silence a creaking wooden spiral staircase?

texts:
We have a spiral staircase with 14 closed wooden steps. Most steps creak when you put your weight on them (or take it off). The noise intensity depends on where exactly on the step you stand.

How can I silence this staircase?

I would prefer a non-intrusive solution that doesn't require a repaint. Beneath the staircase there is a walk-in cupboard/closet. I wouldn't mind if your solution makes the backside of the stairs look a bit ugly, since it's not in full view anyway.


texts:
I currently have a 3 way light switch in my stairwell.  One at the bottom and one at the top of the stairs.  I recently added a light fixture to the bottom of the stairs but need some help wiring it up.  I have been rewiring the whole house but the 3 ways a bit confusing to me.  Power comes in from the light fixture at the top of the stairs. Here is a diagram of what I have and what I am trying to do.  Any help would be great.

Can I tie into the wiring leaving the original light before it reaches the switch on the left?


texts: What nap roller should I use for primer?

texts: And does it matter, in choosing the nap, what the sheen of paint will be used over the primer? E.g. if I do my bathroom in semi-gloss using 3/8" nap vs living room in flat with 1/2" nap, should I also prime the bathroom with 3/8" nap and the living room with 1/2" or it doesn't matter?


texts: How to test if a dishwasher's below the floor heating element is faulty?

texts:
My dishwasher uses a Bauknecht 2040W heating element:

Can you test if it's faulty using a continuity test?

If so, is the continuity test between:

ground and the positive,
ground and the negative, or
the positive and the negative?

Testing between positive and negative shows continuity but between either the positive or the negative and ground doesn't.


texts: Solution for desk chair on an uneven floor

texts:
Under my desk in the office is an uneven expansion joint on the floor with a thin metal plate. An average desk chair with 2 inch (5cm) wheels sticks at the joint or needs some velocity to roll over it.

Patching the joint would be very expensive, because of a glued carpet on both sides, which would have to be changed in the whole office. So we are looking for other alternatives.

We have tried it with 3 inch (7.5cm) rollerblade wheels with a slightly better experience. But changing directions with these higher wheels is less comfortable and the chairs are not constructed for the slightly greater forces (they are bending on the connection points for the wheels on turning).

Now, we are thinking on testing 2.5 inch double wheels. Another option would be a chair mat for hard floors. But somebody told us, these would not survive very long on the joint.

Has anyone experience with a problem like this and solved it?


texts:
Can anyone identify the type of switch this is? There are 4 connectors at the bottom and 3 at the top.

I've already purchased a 2 gang 2 way switch which turned out to be the wrong one (it only has 2 connectors at the top).

I'm in the UK if terminology differs from other countries.


texts: How to refinish a rubberwood and veneer coffee table top?

texts:
A part of the rubberwood and veneer coffee table got damaged and I would like to learn what are the tools and materials used to refinish/fix this type of issue.

The manufacturer says that it's a 'mahogany finish', but I wonder whether if I just buy a mahogany stain at HD/Lowe's would it match it or not.


texts: Are expansion gaps needed when gluing down linoleum?

texts: I am going to fully glue down a sheet linoleum in my bathroom. I would like to know if I have to leave expansion gaps when totally gluing down the linoleum.


texts: What's the best way to fix skirting board without nails / screws?

texts:
I need to put some skirting board up which will be fixed to some skimmed, dot-and-dabbed plasterboard.

I need to fix it without nails / screws however, as it's in a basement/cellar conversion, and there is waterproof membrane behind the plasterboard which I can not puncture.

I'm planning on using No More Nails / Gripfill, but have struggled getting it flush in the past without putting some pins in until it goes off.

One useful thing is it is in a narrow hallway (about 1.2m) so I'm wondering if I can get away with "wedging" the skirting with 1.2m pieces of stud across the hallway until the glue goes off.

Is there a more elegant solution than this? (Am also worried in case the no more nails gives way at a later date!)


texts:
I have looked all over the internet and have not been able to find the answer for my problem. I have a Whirlpool gas oven / range that will not heat up. The gas burners on top work just fine. I just replaced the "glow" ignitor thinking that was the problem but it still won't light.

When I turn the oven to bake, the element lights up really bright, the gas turns on, I can hear it and smell it, but it just sits there letting gas out and never ignites. I stuck a grill lighter in by where the gas comes out of the holes in the long metal tube and was able to light it up manually just fine.

Please help! Thanks!


texts: Does it do any good to use fiberglass insulation if you're not going to drywall?

texts:
My attached garage is not insulated. When I look up, I see the roof sheathing.

I was thinking of adding insulation to the garage. The problem is there is no attic space, so I shouldn't drywall it without adding vents ( otherwise I'd be creating a hot roof).

But, of course, without panel covering the airflow is far less restricted... will the fiberglass even do anything in this regard?

EDIT: The alternative I'm considering is an open-cell spray foam. This will be more expensive, but will be effective because I can then finish the drywall as the cavity will be effectively air-sealed.


texts: Should a curtain drain be covered/back filled?

texts:
I do some light maintenance and yard work in exchange for rent.
The building had some problems with flooding. We have an extensive drain system, but it was a bit clogged. Even after the plumbers unclogged the drain the owner of the property is having a sump pump plus a curtain drain installed.

We have had some dispute about covering/back filling the curtain drain. The contractor is against it. I don't want to insult the contractor or the owner of the property. As the contractor is a friend of the owners. The owner of the property is a very intelligent woman, and if a logical argument is made will likely reconsider. Should a proper curtain drain be covered/back filled or should we really leave a gravel trench in the middle of a yard? I have spent a little bit of time researching curtain drains, and most instructions indicate that the last step is to landscaping fabric, and few inches of soil and some grass. While this will certainly make mowing and autumn leaf removal a pain, I also generally care about the appearance of the property and this decision seems wrong.

the question: to cover/backfill with soil and plant grass or not to cover/backfill a curtain drain


texts: How do I replace this bathroom fan with a different plug?

texts:
I want to replace my bathroom fan 'cause it stopped working. The ones in stores I see have a normal house receptacle plug that can just be plugged in to any outlets in the house etc. The one for my current broken fan is different. What do I do to change this to work with a new fan from home depot?
Here is my old fan with the white plug. The new fans do not have this kind of plug.

All the new fans the plug look like this.


texts: installing recessed lights in bedroom and closet, 2 switches, 1 power source

texts:
I'm "trying" to install recessed lights to my bedroom with a dimmer (4 wires- 1 green, 1 red, 1red with white, 1 black) and a light in the closet with its own switch. The hope is to come from the same power source. Any suggestions?

Here's a picture of the box. Hope this helps.


texts: How do I replace this smart switch to this exisiting light switch

texts:
I have a deta grid single gang smart switch it has active neutral and a clear terminal.

Before calling a sparky, I would like to understand what would be done.

Is it a matter of connecting a wire from the neutral terminal on the smart switch to that black neutral in the picture and use the existing wire I'm terminal to the active. What is the white and loop wire used for?

Thanks
Phil


texts: How do I know if a house built in 1940 in Ontario, Canada has lead pipes?

texts:
The current owner does not know but does this province have any laws regarding health issues from drinking water from old pipe systems or that they should be replaced? In the old days pipes were lead correct?

Edit: Temporarily, does a Brita filter remove lead?


texts: Add grounding to a 9th floor apartment in country with no electric code at all

texts:
I live in a 9th floor 1940s-era apartment in a country with no electrical code and no professional licensing for electricians. My 'electrician,' such as he is, is a security guard who does wiring on weekends for extra money. He is obviously not a trained electrician, though he's done a bit of the work over the years. The building is concrete and brick. There's a steel framed elevator down the middle.

My brand new Bosch refrigerator seems to be adding a mild electrical charge to the floor of the kitchen when it's wet, which is somewhat concerning to me. When I plug my laptop into the wall, I am subjected to continuous minor electrical shock while trying to type, which is irritating and concerning. When I touch the TV I get a fairly painful shock. I have a couple of little kids, who I would like to keep from being electrocuted.

My apartment has mostly two-prong plugs (to which I would like to add grounding wire). There is obviously no grounding wire for the building as a whole, or for my apartment's electrical system (which does have a 220v main circuit breaker along with separate breakers for various circuits in the apartment).

My electrician is proposing to drive a 20cm (8in) spike into the concrete of the balcony and ground everything off of that. My opinion is that this won't work.
1) What do you guys think about that? Is there any potential value to his proposal?

2) I am inclined to try to get him to ground everything to the metal cold water supply of the house, which is hopefully, though not provably, metal all the way down. Does that sound like a better idea?

3) I presume not all circuit breakers (meaning mine) are GFCI's. If I add GFCI's to my panel, do I get most of the same protection? And presumably I have to run a third wire from outlets back to the panel in order to get GFCI protection right?

4) Any other things I should be doing/thinking about?

5) Once I get my electrician to implement some changes, how do I test that we've actually got things grounded? I am hoping he has a multimeter. What's the 'for dummies' guide to testing to see if a circuit is grounded?


texts:
The six outlets in a bedroom suddenly show a voltage of 80 and lights do not work. Everything was functional before. The breaker does not show anything unusual.
Last month we rewired a bathroom which is functional and does not show any issues. When breaker switch for bathroom were turned off the bedroom lights were not affected. I assume this means they are not on the same circuit.
A plug tester was used to check the outlets in the bedroom. It first read "hot ground reverse", but then after I unplugged all lights and items it reads "no neutral".
What should I look for to find the cause of problem?
Edit/Conclusion, opened all receptacles. In one of them the neutral wire just  fell out. Given that these are 12 gauge wires it was strange to see them loose. They were all back-stabbed. Perhaps that makes for loose connection if wire is not pressed in far enough. Had seen another one in another room that was broken at the tie-in screw. Again strange to see such a hard wire break.


texts:
We installed new counters and along with it a new sink.  The location of the drain on new sink is lower and much to the left of the old one.  After rotating the trap, its still off from the drain by about an 1.  But there isn't enough vertical room to make the necessary jogs.  So my question is, would it hurt to add a s trap right out of the sink drain only to jog the h2o to the location of the orginal trap?  Would it still drain correctly?  Would the lower trap still work correctly? See the attached sketch.

Thanks,


texts: I have a Kathy Ireland chandelier bought in the US with 110V.  Can I use this chandelier in the Philippines having 220V Electricity?


texts: Front door weather sealing - tapered gaskets for twisted jamb

texts:
My front door does not close squarely. The hinge side closes flush. The lower corner opening side touches the weatherstripping fully. But the top of the door does not. The door has about 1/2 inch difference on the top edge, where it does not completely engage the weatherstrip. Obviously the door or frame is somehow not square. Let's assume removing the door and replacing it (or the frame) isn't an option at this time.

Is there any kind of "tapered" gasket or trim material I could purchase in order to then take off the weather stripping and replace with a "fatter" strip that will seal, or take off the weather stripping and put in a long tapered (3 foot and 7 foot) edge material (wood, plastic) to match the door, and then put new weatherstrip on that will close fully.

My other idea was to put a deadbolt on the upper corner of the door and when I push it closed, engage the lock and it will keep the door closed and sealed. But I don't like that idea much.

Any other suggestions appreciated.


texts: Is there something wrong with this trap that would cause a sewer smell?

texts:
the existing ss connection is  out of floor for kitchen sink.  p-trap is higher than sewer connection but the p-trap is still higher than the connection to sewer. Sometimes it smells like bad, could this be a vent stack issue and if so how to test vent stack?

looks all wrong should i rip out old abs and start over?


texts: how do i improve the temperature of my sons room?

texts: i have a house in new york and i have insulation with paper backing in the attic. My room which has the thermostat is always 4 degrees warmer than his room which is situated over the living room can i just temporarily put 6 mil plastic in the attic over my sons room to keep the heat in until i can afford to double the insulation in the attic?


texts:
Wiring Diagram

My Diagram of how the wiring should be. Can someone confirm the diagram?
Also on the actual switch box, there is currently three pairs coming. I.e. with only one hot. Why would there be three wires when there was just a light and switch before? I got confused after removing the original equipment.


texts: Is there a way to get hot water without altering plumbing or electrical wiring too much?

texts: Is there a way (other than collecting water and heating it on the stove ) to get hot/warm water from the tap without having to alter existing plumbing or electrical wiring ?


texts: I have an outlet with three sets of wires coming into it. One set is carrying the power (from an upstream outlet) and two others are connected to downstream outlets. I first disconnected all of the neutral wires. I then tested the voltage drop between the incoming hot and neutral (wires A and B in the image below) and got 120V. I tested the voltage drop between the incoming hot and the first downstream neutral (A and C in the image below) and got a voltage drop of 0 since there was no completed circuit. But when I tested the voltage drop between the incoming hot and the second outgoing neutral (A and D in the image below) I got a voltage drop of 60V. I tested the downstream outlets at the plug and found the voltage drop between neutral and hot and ground and hot to be 120V but I havent opened up any of the outlets. Any idea what may be going on here?


texts: Should twisted wire joints to 5 kW water heater be soldered?

texts:
Say I'm connecting a water heater (~5kW) to the mains and I need to make a joint, not just replace the cable with a longer one.
Considering the high power consumption, would soldering the joint help in any way?
How the joint is made: 2cm of each wire are twisted together and then compressed with pliers.


texts: Someone copped my garage key during a visit & I am alarmed. I can't access it from inside due to an 'overstuffed' garage (I am 68 yrs old & don't want to take a tumble) How can I get my door open? The spare key will not turn the lock.


texts: when freezers are not in use fr 2-3 weeks a month, should they be left plugged in?

texts: I work with a food pantry at my church. We receive food on the first Thursday on the month and distribute food to those in need on the following Tuesday. We have several chest freezers which we use to separate meats (poultry, beef, pork) and a stand up freezer for things like lunch meat, hot dogs, prepared meals, sausage, bacon, and extras. My question is, would it be better to leave them plugged in and on the lowest setting, or unplugged? How long does it usually take for the freezer to get back to optimal temp when unplugged? Because there times when he freezer may need to be used at last minutes notice. Also, all but one of these freezers have been donated to the church. They have some age on them. It is good to keep stopping and starting the motor? Isn't there freon (or some kind of chemical) which keeps everything ''lubricated''?  I'm open to opinions, but I REALLY could use the ADVICE of a professional fridge/freezers sales/repair person.  Thank you so much~~~  Cherie


texts: Should I continue my basement subfloor under the stairs?

texts: As part of finishing my basement I'll need to rebuild these stairs to account for the higher floor level. The back of this stair case is currently open to the lower basement, but that will be getting closed off. I think I understand the basics of stair construction, but I'm wondering if there's anything wrong with extending the subfloor (3/4" OSB over 1" XPS) all the way under these stairs to have a continuous thermal/moisture barrier? Would it be better to stop the subfloor at the base of the stairs so that the stringers are supported directly by the slab?


texts: What type of Cat 6 cable to run behind basement studs?

texts:
I have a finished basement and would like to install and consolidate my house's wired ethernet cables in a data panel in one of the cabinets.  I need to run wires around to the other side of the basement.  The wall studs were placed several inches away from the concrete basement walls and bats of insulation were placed between the concrete walls and the studs.  Cables could be fished around and behind the studs with minimal cabinetry removal.  (The cabinets were screwed onto the studs before the dry wall.)
The problem is that the ethernet would have an irregular run and would lie on the ground, on/through insulation, over old pipes and then up into the desired rooms.
Flexible carlon-style ENT conduit might fit, but might not, and might require additional hole drilling.  Fishing individual wires would be much easier.   Also, I don't know how easy it'd be to pull through the irregular run of flexible ENT conduit.  I think that grey PVC conduit would be very difficult.  Securing it would be near impossible given what's back behind there.

What type of Cat 6 cable would be suitable for this location?  Direct burial?  Riser?
Is it OK to run it along the basement concrete.


texts:
This is a picture of the wall of my house:

I need to fix the pointing; I think it's causing water to enter around a window at one point, and it's generally a disaster.

The house is in the UK, built about 1970, and is externally stone (with a cavity with concrete blocks inside).  This hard, circular profile, gray cement is what is used to point the whole house.  The main part of the house has wide eaves which protect from weather, and generally the pointing looks good, with a good bond between the cement and stone.

We also have an "extension" (or what I think might originally have been a garage) which is a flat roof, no eaves, and features issues like in the picture.  The cement has blown off in chunks, and can easily be removed by hand (that which hasn't fallen off on it's own).  As you can see, behind is a must weaker looking mortar between the blocks.

I am thinking of using a lime mortar to repoint, and following advice I've found on the internet, would make the pointing slightly recessed, and not a "ribbon" (the picture doesn't show it well, but especially on this bit of the house, it looks like it's been piped on out of a bag!)

  Is this sensible?  Should I use a lime putty, or a weak hydraulic lime mortar?

What confuses me is that the internet is full of advice about "historic" buildings (of which there are many where I live: Calderdale in West Yorkshire).  But our house is not really historic...  And also none of the local houses, either very old or rather new, have pointing which looks remotely like my house.


texts:
I have a fotek SSR-25 relay I want to use to control a light (just a 120V led bulb).

The wire connected to the #1 contact is 120vac.  I have nothing connected to the load side (#2).  The inputs are driven by a proximity sensor:

Edit: after trying the relay manually by connecting the load and then touching the 12V input to the contacts, I was able to determine that the relay does, in fact, work.

Which is powered by a transformer at 12vdc:

The sensor can be activated by a hand coming within 0.75".

Please disregard the sloppiness of the wiring, as this is just in an experimental state.  Once I get it working, I will button everything up properly.

I have two problems.

The relay has 120 vac across both contacts, regardless of what voltage is being applied to the inputs. (Edit: this isn't actually a problem)
The proximity sensor seems to work fine I free space, but wood appears to trigger it (???) which makes it inoperable when mounted as shown in the picture.

Edit: I still haven't quite solved the problem of getting the sensor working while next to materials, but I'm punting on that for now.  What seems to be preventing the sensor from activating the relay is that the relay contacts only show a voltage difference of ~20mV, which isn't anywhere near large enough.  I don't understand why it's doing that, though.  Here's the wiring diagram and ratings:

This diagram (which is pretty much all the specs offered by Anigmo) seems to indicate that the voltage across t he relay contacts should be as high as 48VDC, but it's orders of magnitude lower than that.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might be doing wrong, or how better to diagnose the problems?


texts: What material can I put along a sharp, thin metal edge?

texts:
I have some sharp aluminum sheet metal, about as thin as a sheet of paper. I need to put something on the edge to protect other items from being cut by the edge. This could be a piece of rubber that fits over the edge, for instance.
The nearest product I can find is the edging on sheet protectors. It has a "U" shape, so you can clip it over. The problem is I need 200 ft! Is there a kind of product in the building world that serves this function? I looked through many window sealing strips, but could find nothing with a "U" shape that could fit over a thing sheet of metal.


texts:
Water leaks from the valve when the water to the faucet is on. What is the name of this type of faucet & how do I fix this leak?  I put in a new washer in the garden hose which stopped the hose from leaking but it's still leaking from the faucet valve.

Pictures here: http://imgur.com/a/NCZIH


texts: Bottom few inches of drywall got wet, but wall looks fine. Do I have to replace that drywall?

texts:
So my basement bathroom backed up, and some water (mild sewage too I guess) spilled to floor, and made its way under the wall. I have sprayed enough mold killer, and Clorox to kill an elephant,  and so far I see no issues. When I tap on the drywall it also feels fine. It is painted in case that matters.
What I really want to know is if I have to replace the drywall of the bathroom? The other side of that wall is not drywall and I am replacing it anyways. (I hope that makes sense).


texts:
I'm finishing my basement, and adding a bath in the process. I'm hoping to get some help with drain/vent questions. The current stack is right in the middle of where the new shower will be. I'm moving it against a wall just a few feet away. I'm just a little confused on how I should vent the bath, and where the best place to connect the new stack and the shower line into the system. Thanks in advance]1

The black lines are 3", blue are 2" and green are vent


texts: Is it normal for actual temperature to be below target temperature during cold weather?

texts:
I live in North Florida and the temperature seems to drop into the 30's maybe 10-15 days out of the year and the 20's maybe 2-5 times a year.  We had a few days where the highs were in the 30's this past week.  I noticed that my first floor seemed cooler and that the thermostat was showing 62-65 a few times while the target was 68.  The second floor was fine 67/67.  We were out of town the previous weekend and I had set the first floor to 55 because it was not very cold while we were gone.  Actual temp on first flow was 63 when we got back.  I'm not sure if it struggled the next few days to get to 68 because it was already down at 63 when extreme cold hit or if there is a bigger issue.  I also notice a lot of condensation on the inside of our double pane windows.  Does all of this sound normal?  The first floor system is a Carrier from circa 1996/1997.  I think it is a 10 SEER.  I think the same is true upstairs, but it is a smaller unit.  I believe both are heat pumps.  Appreciate any insight.

Update:  My wife just texted me a picture and the outside of our air compressor is completely frosted with ice.  It was not like this earlier in the week AFAIK.


texts: what size 2 by lumber should I use to support a swing?

texts: I want to hang a swing in my yard and none of the trees have a suitable branch. I want to run a doubled up PT 2x8 between 2 trees spanning just shy of 10 feet. Will this be strong enough? Should I upsize to 2x10? Or is there another option?  Thanks


texts: Using just power from ethernet cable for security camera?

texts:
I'm trying to install security cameras around my house. My problem comes when I try to find power for the locations I want to monitor. I have one camera mounted already, but it is 25 feet away from the nearest outdoor outlet. I was just going to use an extension cord to run power closer, but heard that this is not a safe thing to do.

The camera is the Zmodo 720p outdoor (https://www.zmodo.com/720p-outdoor-wifi-camera/).

It comes with a 5V 1A adapter with a micro usb on the end to power the camera since data is sent over wifi. I was thinking of using a usb extension, but found out that power can only travel about 16 feet over usb.

That leaves my last option which is POE. I hear most people use it for both power and data, but I only want to use it for power. Would it be possible to get a POE switch, plug it in to the outside outlet, and run ethernet cables to each of the cameras without worrying about data? Can power travel 25 feet over ethernet?

Is there any better way to get 5V to the camera?

Thanks


texts: Is there a more attractive alternative to a drop ceiling that allows easy access to the space above it?

texts:
Are there any ways of installing a basement ceiling that is seamless and does not look like a drop ceiling, but which can still be somehow disassembled?

Alternatively, are there more subtle forms of drop ceiling technology available?

My subjective opinion is that drop ceilings look ugly. But as I need to access the area above in my basement, at least until all my re-wiring-the-house tasks are done, I don't want to put up drywall, unless I can rig up some panes that I can later remove (which is one option I am considering).  I could also just put up drywall, and cut holes in it, and patch it later.

What would you do? Put up with a drop ceiling? Make holes later? Third alternative?


texts: I am replacing a very old outside light fixture and have hit a roadblock.  All of the fixtures I see in stores are sleek in design but mine is connected to a pretty large electrical box.  The picture below shows my current light.  Can I replace this with one of the sleeker more modern lights without a junction box?


texts: help with improving HVAC performance on the second floor of an old house

texts:
I'm hoping some of you can offer some advice on how best to add a second AC in our home -- or on whether we should look for a different solution. I should say upfront that I've done a lot of reading on this topic and feel more confused than ever. I'm not crazy about the idea of an attic AC (leaks, cost, efficiency). But I also want my pregnant wife and soon-to-be newborn to be comfortable. Some of the more popular alternatives won't work for us, whether they're minisplits (wife hates the look) or a whole house fan (wife has bad allergies and we try not to open our windows because of friction / encapsulated lead paint).

Anyway! We live in central Indiana in a 1920s brick colonial -- no insulation in the walls, a few inches of cellulose in the unfinished attic. The house is about 1700 square feet and currently has a newish Lennox 2.5 ton AC, but while the house has plenty of supplies and returns downstairs there are no returns upstairs. (There is a supply in each room upstairs -- I'll put a copy of the upstairs floor plan, about 750 square feet, at the end of this post.)

In the summer there's a noticeable difference in temperature and mugginess between the two levels, and I really hate the idea of making the downstairs freezing during the night just so the upstairs is bearable. We're considering putting a second AC in in our unfinished attic with the idea that it'd allow us more comfort and more control.

We've received three bids -- the two I'm still considering are in the $4800 range for the labor, second condenser, air handler, and a low-powered electric heater if we ever need to supplement in the winter.

A couple questions in case we go with the second AC. Based on the floor plan below, would you put a supply and a return in each room (one bid's proposal) or just put a supply in each bedroom and a bigger return in the hallway, near the stairs (another bid's proposal)? I imagine we'll be shutting the doors more with kids, but there's a big gap between each door and the floor since the previous owners had thick carpet and tile, which we removed.

Second question: how much do we need to worry about the ductwork and unit being in the very warm attic, outside the house's "envelope"? I've asked both vendors about this, based on my reading online, and they both said it wouldn't be an issue with our smaller house -- and that the AC units will have insulated cabs and that the ductwork will be insulated, too.

Of course, this second AC may be a terrible idea in the first place given the possibility of water leaks and inefficiency and whatever else. So third question: would finding an unobtrusive way to run one return up the second floor hallway and sealing / insulating the heck out the attic be worth trying first? (I don't want to insulate the walls because that's very tricky with brick.) Maybe one return plus a better attic solution and possibly a portable AC unit will be enough.

Or maybe there's a way to do a permanent attic AC smartly (and to make my pregnant wife happy). Curious to hear your thoughts. Sorry for the novel length post! If I've forgotten to add any details please let me know.

Best,
Craig


texts: Removing horizontal muntins from 1950s split pane windows

texts:
Is it possible to change to look of old exterior windows by removing the center horizontal muntin on a 1940-1950’s split 2 pane window?  I would like to remove the divider, remove both pieces of glass, and inset a solid piece of glass, so I no longer have a divided pane. These muntins are solid wood, not fake.  They look like this (this photo is NOT my house)...

https://retrorenovation.com/2011/05/09/replacement-windows-for-a-1950s-house/

This old window style really dates the house (it’s cape cod style) and I only need to do the 2 windows that face the street.


texts: How can I mark capped drip line outlets from irrigation systems?

texts: The previous owner of my house installed drip lines all of their gardens. In one garden we tarped, mulched, and planted succulents. We don't want that much water in that bed, so I removed the drip lines and capped off the pipes. I realize if I want to access them later for whatever reason I'm going to have to rip up almost all the flowerbed to find them, so before I forget, I want to mark them. What is a good way to do that which will survive the elements, but won't be as ugly as say, the road cone I have out there now.


texts: Water heater drain pan pump capacity needs?

texts:
In the event of water heater failure, I'm considering installing a water heater pan with drain pump per this answer.  How can I determine the necessary pump rate?

According to the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety, for insurance claims, water heater failures make up 20 percent of all residential water loss incidents, and incur over $5,000 per claim.

From past experience with failed water heaters, it seems that the flow rate might be the full incoming flow rate?  Either way, what is a conservative capacity?  If I can't find an off the shelf condensate pump with sufficient power, I assume there's no reason I couldn't attach multiple pumps--plus I'd get the benefit of some redundancy, right?


texts: What to do about furnace that's drawing gas odors into the room instead of heat?

texts:
I have a gas furnace.  It was heating up the place fine and worked for years until the other day.

All of a sudden it started drawing air that smelled like strong gas odors into the room rather than heat.

Is this repairable?  Is it something I can fix myself?


texts:
I have a really cold corner of my house in a duplex. Here are some shots from an infrared camera. I hope we can get this fixed without tearing down the siding or ripping out freshly installed kitchen cabinets. I had the contractor insulate the wall but it is still crazy drafty.

Any help appreciated!

[


texts: Is there any easy way to open/close bay window blinds at the same time?

texts:
We have a bay window with normal wooden venetian blinds. The bay window has 5 individual blinds like this (http://www.mainfineintl.com/documents/FauxWood1.jpg) which use a twisting rod to open and close them.

Is there any simple way to link the rods together so only one has to be turned to rotate all of them? I'd like to be able to control all with one synchronously - we normally have them all open or closed at the same time so independent controls isn't needed.

Thanks.


texts: Can I build a wall directly underneath a steel basement beam?

texts: I'm framing an interior wall in my basement. There is a load bearing steel beam that runs length of the home. Can I build my wall to run parallel underneath the beam about 16 feet and secure it?


texts: How high I should install a 52 inch TV on the wall?

texts: I'm going to hang my TV to the wall and I want to know how much from ground is standard for 52 inch TV?


texts:
I've got a 5.1 speaker system and I need guidance to place the speakers(5 sub-woofer/speaker and 1 main-woofer).

I heard that, for best experience there are specific guidelines for placement.
Like,

The distance between each speakers
Height from ground level.
Distance from seats, etc.

Below diagram shows the space of my room.


texts:
In my water bill (in U.S.), there
are two charges, one for water
consumption and the other for sewer
consumption. I was wondering what
the difference between water and
sewer is?
This month, our water and sewer
have the same amount of consumption.
I was wondering if their
consumptions are supposed to be the same generally?
Is the water from bathroom sink or
bathtub supposed to be drinkable? If further after being boiled,
is the water from
bathroom sink or bathtub safe for drinking?


texts: How to stabilize a wooden lawn mower ramp over stairs?

texts:
I'd like to build a ramp for a lawn mower that is in the basement. The only way out is a set of stairs with a very little space to turn to them (that's why the ramp doesn't extend all the way to the ground). It'd be temporary placed over the stairs only when needed.

The steps are 13cm deep 25cm long each. This yields a 27 degrees steepness. 2 pieces of ramp will be made, 112x12cm each, have not yet decided on the thickness. It's either some 2cm thick solid wood or leftover laminated flooring pieces. At some point I wish to connect the two, to always be at the specific distance from each other.

With that said my current plan and biggest problem is how to stabilize the ramps so that they don't slide down (or up, when I drag the mower up). It's hard to cut 27 (63) degrees angle lengthwise with my circular saw, although I could do shallow depth large triangle pieces. These would be "cleats" or "studs" to grab on to the irregular old concrete steps somehow.

My question is which is bettter:

Purple triangle (or larger): shallow depth like 2cm
Blue triangle, small: cut at a length that is 12cm
Green bar, just a piece of regular lath, 12cm deep, fairly large
Other?

My current plan is:

It has 12.5x6.5x2.8 triangle pieces, 32 of them. Groups of 4 screwed together, forming a 11.2cm deep triangle stick to go on each step, on both sides.

I'll cut it up like this. It's a 80x25x2.8 piece of wood and will have some leftovers to stabilize (perhaps a vertical piece).


texts:
I noticed a slight humming noise coming from a subpanel in my house. Narrowed it down to a single GFCI breaker.
When I press the test button on this breaker and it trips to off, the sound is gone.
Its a barely noticeable sound (I have good hearing) and constant in tone.
The GFCI is for a dedicated circuit for a spa-type bathtub. Its humming even though the tub is NOT running and I would expect drawing no current (I don't think there is even a small load for electronics, though I can't be certain).
The breaker, if original, would have been installed in 1996 (the panel inspection sticker date). Here's the face of this breaker:

Is this OK? Should I be concerned or replace the breaker?

Update - There is one other identical breaker in the same panel which is normally off. I switched it on and it makes the same noise.
The panel mostly has standard breakers and also a few newish arc fault breakers, and those are all silent. Every breaker in the GE panel is a GE breaker, they should all be correct models for the panel.


texts: What temperature are faucet feed lines rated for? (don't want them to leach into potable fluid)

texts:
I am planning on using the flexible faucet feed lines for a project I am working on.  (they have a metallic outside and I suspect vinyl or plastic interior)

The temperature of the fluid that I will be running though it (maple sap) will be around 100F to 180F - but I don't know yet.  I am building a preheater out of copper tube and need a way to connect two parts that are fixed but must be able to disconnect

I don't want the part to fail or break down and I do not want the material to leach into the fluid.

Are these feed lines acceptable for temps to 180F?

Is there another alternative that allows flexibility and easy connect/disconnect on one side of the part?


texts: All my outlets are 220-240v , one shows 130-140v. What could the problem be?

texts:
I recently wanted to use an outlet that I had rewired 5-6 years ago (along with the whole house) and all my other outlets are 220-240v, but this one shows 130-140v.
What could the problem be? I intend to plug in a spare Fridge to it and would love it if I don't have to hack away at the walls to run new wiring. I am not a professional but I recall someone saying that electricity running to my house is on a "3-phase system" Not sure if that means anything or helps
*edit The location is Warsaw, Poland. 90% of the wiring and fuse boxes etc was ripped out and new/modern installed 5-6 years ago, this socket MIGHT have escaped someone's attention and only gotten a new plastic "facade" but not wires.
Not sure if that means anything or helps
Thanks in advance.
Josef
*pics below

[

*edit 3
closeup, the brown lump was just tape, covering some shoddy cutting work. Could this cause the loss of 90-100v?


texts: Why does my Dewalt power drill only have a 2 prong plug?

texts: Why does my Dewalt power drill only have a 2 pin plug rather than a 3 pin with a ground?


texts:
My house is masonry block about halfway up and then wood siding with top.  Two months ago I had outsulation installed.  It’s made up of 2x4 feet foam panels that are 2 inches thick.  These are covered by a plastic mesh in a scratch coat overlaid with a stucco like finish.  The outsulation works well and looks even better.
My problem is I’m not sure how to re-attach the address numbers.  I have 5 x 2 x 1/8 an inch address numbers that were screwed into the wood siding with three-quarter inch wood screws.
What I was thinking to do is to drill about an 1/8 inch hole through the stucco into the foam board and glue in the screws.  What I don’t know is what kind of glue would hold metal screws into a foam board.
Any ideas of what kind glue to use?  Or an even better idea on how to attach the numbers?


texts: How can I repair a vinyl window that is not staying up?

texts:
I moved into a house.  There is one vinyl window with a problem.  If you unlatch the window, the top half drops like a guillotine.  Smash.  I'm surprised it isn't broken yet.  None of the other windows in the house do this.

I don't see any place where there would be a spring or counter-balance mechanism.  Do I just need to get the whole thing replaced, or is there a way to take this apart?  If I can DiY this thing, then how would I service it and where would I find parts (usually without knowing the part names, every web search seems to take you to Microsoft's web site... for windows).


texts: Adding a 24" closet door to interior shear wall

texts:
Does the wall in the image need additional support? I intend to put a 24" wide closet in a hallway. The Wall has a diagonal beam going across it. I believe the beam was put there for shear. Supporting horizontal forces (wind etc..).

I will be adding another 2x4 to support the load of the roof. I will also add a header for the closet. Both are shown in black in the image. Would you recommend additional support to the wall to help with load or shear?

Structure: 1962, Split level
Location: Western North Carolina


texts: What should I do about the floor for a outside metal shed / ventilation

texts:
I put together one of those 1 million fastener sheds from lowes.  I didn't do a lot of ground prep but tried to make it as flat as possible.  There were initially some areas under the perimeter wall that were too low so I added dirt under those sections.  The exterior walls then all sat flat but due to time constraints I didn't try to completely level the inside dirt area.  I then put some 6mil poly down on the flat ground and then put the shed on top.

A season later and I have some water puddles in the low spots.  I am not sure if the water came in from the change in season and humidity - over the winter there were certainly times where the metal ceiling of the shed was sweating with condensation and dripping.

Do I put a hole in the poly at the low spots to allow the water to drain?  Should I put a layer of sand on top of the poly?  Anyone add a vent to these things to allow more air flow?  The shed is in a really tight spot so I can move it maybe a few feet in one direction but it is pinned in by a tree, a garage, and two sides with fence.

I suppose I could cut the poly, add soil to level and tuck tape in new poly.  Really I guess the water and ventilation are the main issue.  There is a probably a liter of water sitting on the floor and that seems like a lot for condensation from season change but I am pretty sure that the grade all around the exterior slopes away so maybe there is some kind of small leak in the roof.  In the pacific north west we have enough rain that if there was any sizable leak the thing would be saturated.

With two people I can lift the shed vertically.  Ideas?  Thank you in advance.


texts: Will I damage a cordless drill/screwdriver if I "over-torque" it?

texts:
I own a Bosch GSR cordless screwdriver/drill. This drill automatically locks the spindle so that it can be used as a passive screwdriver, e.g. if the battery is empty (that's what the manual says).

Sometimes I use it to screw climbing holds to a climbing wall (using M10 threaded screws). However, even the drill setting on the slow gear doesn't provide enough torque to fully fix larger holds, so I currently use an allen wrench for the final (half) turn.

Can I use the cordless drill in "passive mode" for this final turn, or will I damage it? If so, would it be better to release the trigger and then turn the drill, or should I fully press the trigger while turning it?

I could imagine that the latter would lead to overheating, but this is only for a few seconds. But I guess the first option would probably lead to torque that is larger than the drill is designed for.

Additional info: On a climbing hold manufacturer's website, I read that the holds should be tightened with a torque between 35 and 45 Nm, while Bosch lists a maximum torque of 30 Nm for my drill.


texts: Should Rabbet Widths be relative to the width of a Frame or are absolute values adequate?

texts:
I am in the midst of looking to create a few Picture Frames, all varying in sizes.  As such, I have been looking into what would be the best Width for the accompanying Rabbet.

From what I can see, 3/8" seems to be a common figure for Rabbet Depths regardless of the Width of the Frame.

Would I be right in thinking that using a relative figure instead, would be a more ideal scenario?  For example 40% of a Frame's Width?

Am I overlooking something here or is it just a case that my thought process here is 'idealistic' in that a relative size would be ideal but the reality is that it would be unlikely to have a Router Bit to accommodate every relative size?

Apologies if this seems like an overly simplistic question but I am fairly new to Woodwork and would like to understand the 'theoretical' side prior to committing to the relevant Tools and Materials.


texts: Is there a good way to test water quality in your house?

texts: What are the best ways to test for water quality in your house?  The water is from a well, not town water.  Are there any products that can continuously test the water coming in (versus manually sampling the water every so often)?


texts: Is this an ok construction for a bathroom sink drain?

texts:
I have a bathroom sink that is constantly clogged or running slow. I’ve cleaned out the P trap, removed the pop up drain stopper and it still ran slow. I bought a DIY snake and can’t get it past these 3 turns to see where the clog is. Any advice here? I’m wondering...
1. Is this set up correctly?
2. Any ideas on how I can set it up better?
3. Any ideas how to unclog this myself?


texts:
I have an old Ikea bed with this kind of central supports:

The problem is that these central supports are flimsy and tend to fall on the side, and I would like to find a way to secure them. For now, I put a pile of books below it, and it's still unsteady.
The height of the supports is 23cm.

I looked for better solutions (apart from changing the bed).  I've tried a few approaches, including supporting it with car jacks.

.

These jacks are ugly and generally too tall (28cm+), so I also attempted to support it with bed risers.

:

These tend to be too low and not adjustable (15-20cm max).

How can I secure the central support, or support it in an adjustable way?


texts:
The city recently told me I need a new cover for a sewer vent on the sidewalk. The cover looks like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-4-88-in-x-4-88-in-Perforated-Sidewalk-Grate-BSB-CP-RTL/203262583

However I noticed the screw holding the previous cover in place has snapped off in the holder, as seen at bottom here:

Is there any hope of getting that screw out or am I going to have to take out the entire holder?


texts:
I’m involved in maintaining a small campground. Some areas are served by overhead electric and an underground services.
No ground wire was ever ran or pulled from the main breaker panels. Individual ground rods have put at each sub panel. And they are bonded in many cases. What we are doing now is putting in new sub panels on our utility poles and installing new  50/30/20 outlet panels for each RV site.
  Each sub panel at the utility pole has a ground rod that’s for that sub panel. Do we run a ground wire ground from the sub panel to the new outlet panel or put another ground rod at the
new 50/30 /20 outlet panel? It would be impossible to run a separate ground wire in the underground conduit.

Edit:

The conduit is PVC. With 3 wires 2 hot one neutral. No ground. Overhead is aluminum triplex.


texts: Should I remove 4" of cellose insulation before adding fiberglass insulation?

texts:
My attic currently has 4" of blown cellulose insulation (to the top of the 2x4 joists). I plan on sealing air leaks and adding R-38 batts. The home was built in 1977 in zone 5.

Should I remove the cellulose and use faced batts or should I top with unfaced? Is there anything else I'm missing?


texts: Refurbish clothes dryer motor by greasing the bearings?

texts:
I have Frigidaire fex831fs4 dryer for which electric motor appears to be seized: I am unable to easily spin the rotor with fingers (after removing it from the dryer) and the dryer makes humming noise while the start button is pressed, but nothing happens.

After some googling I found this youtube video where author appears to work on similar if not same motor and refurbished it by greasing the bearings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIi5RiRnaRI

Have three questions:

what is the black thing he is moving with finger at 0:45? Does it lock motor?
in my case the bearing cap does not want to come off easily after prying with screwdriver. Is it indicator that bearings are badly damaged or I did not try hard enough?
is it possible to replace only the bearings in case they are toasted?


texts: Adapter to convert a 45-degree angle wall electrical plug into a straight plug

texts:
This is a recurring problem I have: Instead of a traditional, straight plug, I have devices with a three-prong plug that lays flush against a wall and angled at 45 degrees. I find these types of plugs quite annoying because they only work if the electrical socket is in exactly the right orientation.
So, I need a way "straighten" out the plug. What would be perfect is something that rotates 360 degrees, similar to these extension cords, but without the cord: https://www.amazon.com/Nekteck-Listed-Extension-Degree-Rotating/dp/B071KSM5DQ
Any ideas?


texts: Replacing Door Header After Pocket Door Removal

texts:
I'm in the middle of opening up a doorway where a pocket door once lived. This is in the first floor of a single story home in a wall that runs along the I-beam (which is below this floor in the basement), so I'm 99% sure it's a loadbearing wall. I know the pocket door framing members weren't really supporting any load even when the pocket door was in there, but I'm still worried about the current configuration . Now that it is removed I can see the pocket door framing was installed by cutting into the header.

My ultimate goal is to just leave this entryway open so I am not planning installing another door. I'm looking for some insight on where I should go from here? Should I hire an engineer to look at it? Should I remove some more of the plaster to see what the header looks like? What type of contractor would I hire if I wanted to get the header replaced?


texts:
I am considering adding full-length pull-out shelves in some of my kitchen cabinets, and this will require cutting out the center stile.  I've seen advice elsewhere online about shoring up the top rail with a full-length strip of half-inch plywood on the inside, to distribute any central loading to the end stiles... but I have not found any advice on how to competently cut the center stile so that
(a) the cuts are flush to the top and bottom rails
(b) but without marring the top and bottom rails.
About the only idea I have is to make my cuts a little proud from the rails, and then sand down to flush.  I guess this is OK as long as my rails aren't veneered... I don't think they are, but i'm not positive.
Can anyone recommend a technique, or else a tool that is perfect for this task?


texts: Sagging subfloor: wooden planks on joists

texts: The subfloor in the centre of my reception room is sagging by 2 cm compared to the perimeter of the room. I want to lay new engineered flooring. How can I fix the subfloor so that the flooring is even? I live on the upper ground floor and there is an apartment below. I believe we have subfloor supported on joists over concrete floor.


texts: Re: 240V electric furnance - what is Dual Supply Circuit Vs. Single Supply

texts:
I am having a Intertherm 012H 240v electric furnace installed. The installer asked me which wiring system would i prefer. The manual offers a choice:

A.) Single @ 51.2 total amperes with a max over-current rating of 70 (which i believe requires #4 wire

B.) Dual "A"/Dual "B" Single A is 27.1, max over is 40, Single B is 24.2, max over is 30.

My questions are:

Which is best Single or Dual? One big 70 amp breaker with big fat, hard to bend wire, or Dual, with separate breakers and easy to use wire?
If dual, if one circuit pops (either a or b) will the furnace continue to operate.
Would i be correct to assume that either method would need 4 wire? Sinfle being #4/4 wire. And Dual A #8/4 wire. Dual B #10/4 wire

Thanks to all those who reply. Bruce


texts: Is there a name for PVC pipe that's approx 1/2" ID and 5/8" OD?

texts:
I have a PVC pipe that supplies water to a valve, and then goes to my toilet. It's approx 1/2" inner diameter, and 5/8" outer diameter; it's stamped on the outside of the pipe that it is 1/2". The standard run of the mill PVC 1/2" that is "Schedule 40" is about 0.8" outer diameter, but is also stamped 1/2"

The valve fitting seems to fit the 5/8" outer diameter one and the valve is labeled for 1/8" nom., and of course then would not fit standard Schedule 40 1/2". Can someone clarify the difference? Is there some sort of PVC pipe type I do not know of?


texts: furnace for central air heating, as what for central air cooling?

texts:
In my apartment, the heating and cooling seems to flow through the same central aid conditioning system. The device used to heat the air is called the furnace. I wonder what the name for the device that cools down the air? Are they not the same device?

Thanks!


texts: Best way to tear up half a concrete parking pad?

texts:
I have a concrete parking pad in my back yard (butts up to an alley) that is substantially larger than I need, and I'd like to reclaim some of that space for my yard.  To that end I'd like to tear up half the pad but leave the other half untouched, preferably with a semi nice edge to it.

So what's the best way to cleanly cut a concrete patio in half, so that I can tear up one side?


texts: Applying drywall tape - to score or not to score?

texts:
I've recently been introduced to drywall repair methods that depend on substrates such as tape and metallic mesh. One technique I've seen for the mesh was to score (i.e., make a surface cut with a utility knife) the drywall around the area and rip off a layer of paper and paint, with the goal of making an indention that can be filled flush with joint compound. Makes sense.

Now, for drywall tape alone, I've seen a few videos on YouTube where they don't make a recess on the drywall.  I guess the drywall repair tape is pretty thin. Also, a friend told me that drywall gets most of its structural strength from the paper and that ripping it is not a good idea.

So my question is, if you're just using paper tape to fix a drywall problem, should you create an indention by scoring, or just use the tape alone?


texts: How big of a beam for a load bearing wall

texts:
I have a wall in my basement that is load bearing. Right now, they put a door opening in there (and probably overdid the header for it). I would like to remove a 7 foot section and open it up for a bit more storage.

I have been searching online, and most tell you how to do something like this, but not how big of a beam you'd need for a span of X feet. How do I figure something like that out?


texts: I plan to run a ceiling fan/light to this switch which is already connected to an outlet. Can you explain this wiring and if it is safe? I don't understand how or why there is a black wire sitting alone or why the white (neutral) is attached to the ground wires. The hot is going into the connector, which is looped to switch, and also contains the wire (white) that supplies power throughout the rest of the room. Help please?


texts: Is laminate flooring easier to install if compared to other flooring materials?


texts: Single connection 2+ cable devices with splitter

texts: Can I split my incoming coaxial cable that is connected to just one account into two (or more) branches with each having its end device (e.g. one TV, one modem or both modem)? I currently use it just for one end device (modem) but there is a 2 way splitter in a room where it enters the house so I was wondering if that can use the connection on its own. I have Comcast in Mid Atlantic USA.


texts: How to repair scratches by utility knife on wooden dinner table?

texts: The wood is the fake kind, not actual wood, found in cheap furnture. The scratches were made by a cutter knife.


texts: How easy is it to change a B22 light fitting to an E27 one?

texts: I was looking to fit some Philips Hue LED bulbs, but they only come with Edison screw fittings (E27) and every light fitting in our house is bayonet (B22). I initially looked into using adapters but I was concerned about the quality and couldn't find a reputable brand. Is this something that I can change myself? For the avoidance of doubt, I live in the UK and I am not a qualified electrician.


texts: Refrigerator freezing on top up to 9 degrees warmer on lower shelves

texts: Side by side Frigidaire 6 months old.  Has done this before, but was working fine by the time the repairman showed up.  It is NOT overloaded.  It does usually run a degree or two different, but not 9 degrees.


texts: Wall Receptacle Outlet is getting hot! Help

texts:
I can use some help understanding why an outlet receptacle is getting hot, and if its being overloaded or if the wires are possibly compromised now from being overloaded multiple times.
I have a 12-2 circuit coming directly from the main panel to (3) 20amp regular wall outlets. They are linked in a 1-2-3 outlet chain where the main line from the breaker box goes to outlet 1, and then between outlet 1-2, and then outlet 2-3.  The wire used is 12-2 romex (Yellow plastic coated wire with White/Black/Ground).
Outlet receptacle #1 is the one that runs hot, outlet #2 and #3 do not.
I originally had them linked like this:

But after I felt it was hot, I switched to linking them like this:

The purpose of this circuit is for window air conditioners. Each air conditioner runs at around 400+ watts once the compressor is running. However one of the air conditioner does surge more than the others on start up. This was supposed to be a temporary setup and the idea was that only 1 AC would be running on the circuit at any given time, but my Central Air is having issues so I'm now relying on this circuit to run at least 2 window units, sometimes 3.
I had a laser printer plugged into outlet #1 and I did not realize it at first, so I am assuming it possibly surged too much energy while the other 2 outlets were running 2 small air conditioner units. The laser printer only runs for about a minute, but I know it pulls a solid 500+ watts and it may surge energy heavily. Outlet #1 had started to melt a bit on the hot side when the receptacle was acting as the pass through to outlet #2 and this is how I realized there was a major issue going on in this circuit. The laser printer absolutely caused the initial issue and power draw that may have compromised the wires.
Outlet #1 has been getting about 5+ Fahrenheit degrees hotter than the ambient temperature in the room.  Its been super hot in that room this summer getting to about 88F to 90F, so the testing the wall (and directly on the wires inside of the outlet box) with an IR thermometer can show it being as high as 95F. This is concerning since I thought there should never be any heat in an outlet or wire unless it is being overloaded.
Using a calculation of:
20A x 120V = 2400 watts and with a rule of using around 75%-80% of the circuits max capacity puts us around usable 1800-2000 watts on that circuit. This is NOT taking into account compressor surge when the compressor kicks on.
My connections are tight and done well. I am using the screw terminal, and I have nice and tight connections that are  wire nut capped and taped.
The circuit breaker at the panel has never tripped during all of this.
HELP!
Am I simply overloading this circuit? Could I have compromised the wire/coating if there was a steady draw on this circuit for too long, and many surges of the laser printer while the air conditioners were already running? The temperature of the outlet/wires is very concerning and I'm considering if I should fish a new line to replace the line between outlet #1 and #2, or further.  I plan to call an electrician and I've stopped using outlet #1 in the circuit but I'm curious to hear what it can be so I know what to expect, or I can make some changes sooner than later.
All feedback welcome.


texts: Can i fix or run my 110V pedestal fan on 220V?

texts:
I have an old table-fan that I bought years ago and was rated for 110V. During the checkout process, it the option of choosing 110V or 220V and I made the mistake of choosing 110V. I haven't been able to use it and it's been collecting dust and I thought I'd get it running so I opened it up.

Inside I found a the motor that was connected to a 300VAC 3uF capacitor and it was also connected to a three-speed selector which to was rated for 300V. All the wires inside the fan are also rated for 300V.

The only thing that doesn't seem to be rated for the 220V is the fuse in the plug. There's a fuse that reads, 110V 5A.

I don't know much about electronics but I've been doing research on this. What I've found is that since it has a capacitor, it isn't a three phase motor.

I'm scared of plugging this into 220V and starting a fire. Is there a way I can check (and run) this table-fan at 220V? I've also read that that motors can be rewired to be run on 220V.

I'm really wondering if they actually do use different motors for the 110V and 220V version or is the motor in both versions the same with the only difference being the fuse and the capacitor.


texts: What's the best lubricant for a refrigerator water dispenser switch?

texts:
The water dispenser on my refrigerator sticks when you press it in. Sometimes it pops right out, and sometimes it stays in for 10-15 seconds. I've taken it apart a couple of times, cleaned it out, and tried spraying lithium grease and Liquid Wrench "Dry Lubricant" in there. Both work for a few weeks, then it starts sticking again, and gets worse over time.

The switch is a little plastic wedge that slides inside a plastic opening. Any tips?


texts: Do all horizontal-surface mount outlets need to be "floor receptacles?"

texts:
I have a horizontal surface that borders a room - basically a wall, but with a 6" jog in it about 4' off the floor that serves as a ledge or shelf.  I'd like to put a couple outlets on this surface.  Would this surface require that I use "floor mount" receptacles (the kind with seals and moisture barriers)?

I get the use of floor receptacles on floors: someone is probably going to run a mop over it at some point, etc.  I could see the possibility maybe of someone spilling a drink if they put a glass onto this "shelf".  I'm really trying to understand the Code here; I'm not trying to cut corners.  A floor receptacle would work.  There are more aesthetically-pleasing, cheaper, and easier to install (in my case) options if I'm not required to have one, though.

Thanks!


texts: Can particleboard subfloor be used as a nail base for 3/4" solid wood strip flooring?

texts:
Question: Has anybody out there laid solid oak strip floor over a 3/4" particle board subfloor and lived to tell about it?

Basis for question: I did a search on SE and all answers point to pulling it up, block the walls if needed block the edges where the new will tie in, etc. All of that is proper and good, if I was doing this in an empty house, or even my house while I was living in it.

This will be done in my aunt and uncles house, both are well in their 70's and I will not disrupt their lives that this would require. I called the flooring manufacturer customer service, and I was told the engineered flooring could be stapled down but the solid 3/4" could not. I guess wood movement or lack of it has something to do with it, but I could not quite put my finger on why one is good but not the other. So I asked the customer rep the same thing. The only response I got was, ask this of other installers out there that have done what you seek to do.

So here I am, I know it is frowned upon, but nobody has said in the forums it has failed, only that it is not good to do and the subfloor needs to be replaced. So as an extension of the question is, has anybody installed solid wood floor over a particle board subfloor and it failed, even in the slightest? I do understand that if the floor gets wet there will be problems. The house was built in the 60's and the floor is still solid everywhere I checked, there are vents in the floor I removed to inspect under the carpet the amount I could lift up the carpet to look under where I could.


texts: Why is the pressure low in the top sprayer of my Bosch dishwasher?

texts:
Bosch Dishwasher SHU43C02UC/17
I noticed that the filter screen was raised at the far left corner.  So took it the rest of the way off and cleaned out round filter as long as I was in there.
Then replaced and fastened filter and screen.
Later when I ran the dishwasher I could hear a noise while it was running.   Dishes came out clean.   But when I ran later, I had very low  pressure.   Some pressure out the bottom spouts but nothing out of the top.
I still hear humming sound when running but much lower.
Dishwasher pumps out water fine...just no washing pressure.
Any ideas/suggestions?


texts: How do I fix a Bostitch nail gun that is jammed?

texts:
I have a Bostitch nail gun (pneumatic) and it has been working fine all day until about 30 minutes ago.

I went to nail in a piece of molding, and when I pulled the trigger I heard air feed into nozzle, but not the normal noise I hear when a nail is actually driven into the wood.

I first checked to make sure I wasn't out of nails and I had a full stack of them.

I then disconnected the gun from the air supply line and took the nozzle off. This is what I found:

Every now and again I get a misfire when it tries to fire two nails at the same time. In these situations, I disassemble the nozzle like I did here and get the nails out. When I took the nozzle apart this time, I noticed that the "hammer" (the thing metal piece that drives the nails in) was not in its correct position.

Usually, the hammer is fully extended, taking up the entire length of the nozzle that you see above. However, in the photo, you see that the hammer is stuck in the "ready to fire" position and will not come out.

I'm not sure if that's the problem (that the hammer is stuck inside the gun), or if something else is going on, but I've spent almost an hour looking at this and am at wit's end.

Any gear gurus out there see what the problem is? Is there a set of things I should be looking for to render a diagnosis?


texts: What are these horizontal & diagonal 'studs' in the wall called?

texts:
My single-story house was built in the 1940s in the San Francisco Bay Area (Earthquake-country).

Here is a picture of the wall with the wallboard removed. This is from my neighbour’s house (Same vintage).

I am curious about the horizontal & diagonal boards in the wall. These are found in the interior and exterior walls. These are not called "Studs", because studs are vertical. What are they called? Bracing? Truss?


texts: Two chips have come off from the edge of our wardrobe door. I think it's some kind of laminated plywood, and was wondering if it would be possible to fix it in place, or at least without having to get another entire piece? I do have the chips stored, I'm not sure if just gluing them back would do the trick or if I'd need some kind of wood filler and forget the chips?


texts: I recently purchased a new refrigerator and in doing so want to swap out the copper ice maker line for a stainless steel flex line.  In order to do so I need to make the water line access hole to the basement bigger from about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch.  Do I need a carbide or diamond tip drill bit to do this?  I don't think the tiles are glazed.


texts: Do I need to clean away WD 40 before I add graphite powder to pram wheel bearings?

texts: I've sprayed wheel bearing/axle with WD 40.  I now feel I need to add some form of grease (I don't want to remove the bearings-just try and work some grease in there somehow).  That's when I spotted my graphite powder and thought that would probably work its way in with a few spins. (Giving an oldish pram a quick makeover before gifting it to my friend).  My question is, do I need to try and remove the WD 40 before sprinkling the graphite.  Don't want to clag it up.  I have some good wheel bearing grease too, so whats your suggestion?


texts:
last week I heard a kind of hissing sound coming from my toilet. I don't use that  toilet much so I just turned off the water from the bottom and the noise stopped. Well I really can't believe this but now my other toilet is hissing even louder. I don't see any leaking in the tank just noise coming from around the red cap on the toilet.

I took a video and put it on youtube so you could hear the sound.

I could really use some advise on this, I'm not feeling well these days and really don't need this added stress. I called a plumber and he said he would take care of both toilets for 220 but I really only want to spend that much if it's really necessary. Thanks in advance. .


texts:
I installed a new outlet and tied it in with the rest of the outlets in the room in a metal box up in the attic. The house is wired with 14-3 throughout, even on outlets and switches that only require 1 hot. I wired the new outlet with 12-2 before even checking to see what wire the other outlets were using. To make a short story long, two of the outlets are no longer working. I checked the wires in the attic and sure enough the 14-3 that feeds those two outlets is cooked.

My question is do I need to wire up the new outlet with 14 gauge, or did that have nothing to do with the other wire getting fried.


texts: What type of wall texture is this? How can I match it?

texts:
Looking for what type of wall texture this is, how is it applied (i.e. spray on)? Basement window flooded, I need to match the texturing around the rest of the room.

It looks like a SantaFe variation to me, because it's low profile but I also suspect it's a spray on. I don't have enough experience to know the difference. I could be totally wrong.. Thanks!


texts: My light wiring has 2 white wires & one black wire

texts:
Basement finished few years ago, and electrician did all the wiring and gone. All lights have been working fine for several years. I recently had the need to change a light fixture, and noticed that the existing light fixture box, when opened, the fixture uses white cables on both the sides of the fixture (instead of one white and the other black). My new fixture has black and white wires. I am confused as to where should I connect the white and the black, the fact that there is no black wire used by the existing light fixture.

Apologies for the correction. My light fixture actually has one black wire and 2 separate white wires connected to two screws on the existing light fixture. My question is, how do I connect the 2 white wires to the new fixture's white wire (can I connect all three with a cap)?


texts:
I've just moved into an apartment without an air conditioner in Sunnyvale, California. The weather is not too hot, but there are going to be some pretty warm days in the summer, especially since I'm on the second floor of two. The temperatures at night should be cool enough to manage quite well - if I can get enough cool air in here!

There's no house fan, and it being an apartment, there's not much I can do about that. So what's the best way to circulate air with standalone fans?

Added fun: a neighbor smokes near my main windows, so I'd really prefer to pull air in through a screen door instead.

(I'm from Texas originally, where no one would dream of building anything without air conditioning, so I have absolutely no experience with this!)


texts: What wire do I need to power 10m of SK9822 LED strip

texts:
I have 10 meters of SK9822 LEDs (60 LED/m) which I want to lead around my room. Because there's some furniture in the way, I'll need to cut this in a few pieces and create segments joint with a piece of wire.

These LEDs are 5V and draw the maximum of 60mA each. I know the maximum amount of power these LEDs will need is 36A (60 * 60 * 10) so I bought a transformer that provides 5V, 40A of power.

I read that powering the whole 10 meter strip only from one end wouldn't work, so I'll put the power source somewhere in the middle with branch A: 400cm of LEDs (plus 20cm of joints) on one side and branch B: 600cm of LEDs (plus about 270cm of joints) on the other side. Now B is probably still a bit too long for powering from one end, so my idea is to supply power to the distant end of it by leading wire from the source, along the LEDs and thus powering the long side from both ends. This would all go from the same supply (40A transformer).

I'm quite new to this but doing as much as I can to catch up with all the electrician knowledge. A couple of things I'm not sure about though:

Will the current get naturally distributed wherever is needed? Especially when connecting the strip on both ends, will it draw roughly a half of the total required current on each side?
Do I need a special wire for the joints and for the power extension?
Some wires have maximum current rating on them (like 3 or 6A), so if the answer to the first question is yes and my calculation is correct (6m of LEDs will draw the maximum of 18A), will I need a wire that can handle 9A of current for the power extention (and possibly for the joints as well)?
Also, what about the wire from the power source to the middle of the strip, should I use separate wires to send power to each branch?


texts: Drywall clips to support partition wall points and ceiling edges

texts: I am looking at these drywall clips made for supporting drywall edges that would normally require a piece of 2x lumber (nailer) to support the edges.  I have a couple ideas on using blocking but it makes my stud cavities cluttered and less insulated.  It also means I would have 3 plates at the top of my wall in some areas.  So I was wondering how well the clips work that big box stores sell?


texts:
I just bought an older home (1959), and it has some odd light switches.

The button is a tap button, and just seems to vary the brightness. The slider seems to turn the lights off and on.

The lights installed when we moved in didn't work, so I replaced them with dimmable LEDs (since I assumed the slider was a dimmer). But it doesn't seem to be a real dimmer.

Has anyone seen these before? and if so, is this the expected behavior?

I'm tempted to just replace them with something standard honestly.


texts: Is it normal for fiberglass to face down in basement?

texts: Image attached below. Entire basement has the fiberglass pointed downward and the paper touching the ceiling above. Why wouldn’t it be the opposite way so  the fiberglass isn’t just hanging down?


texts: My A/C unit was just checked last week- the tech said it had enough freon.  Monday we had a nasty storm- electricity flickered, but never went out.  After the storm, we noticed the a/c went on, but it doesn't cool.  Checked the thermostats and the circut breaker- both are working correctly.  What can be wrong?  The unit is 22yrs old.  The tech did say we are running on borrowed time.  He did mention replacing the capacitor and contactor.


texts: How to assess whether tree roots are causing a problem

texts: I'm in the process of buying a house that has large trees in the garden. I noticed on the documents for the house that some pipework, cabling and drains run fairly close to one of the trees. What kind of expert do I need to take a look and tell me if the trees are likely to be causing a problem? The trees are under a preservation order, so I would need a tree surgeon and planning permission to do any work to them, but I'm guessing a tree surgeon would be more interested in the upper parts, and might not be the best person to assess any damage at or below ground level. Any thoughts welcome :)


texts: How do I cut this material to put in a coach light

texts: I'd like to put in a coach light just like the one below on the other side of the garage. The garage isn't finished, so the wiring will be easy. But I'm not sure how to cut through this thick stone facade to put in an electrical box. What tool would be best for this job?


texts: Can I build 11' x 5.5' loft with 2x2x8 beam and 2x4 joist?

texts:
I have looked at a lot of span tables and calculators and am not sure if I can safely build this loft. It is in a garage and will need to bear the weight of two or three people and a build-in desk hanging off the wall. The ceiling is pitched, and clearance underneath is important. To maximize usable height underneath can I get away with a double 2x8 beam at 11 feet, with 2x4 joists (at 12'oc if needed) or do I need to do 2x6 joists? 2x6 ledger will be bolted to 2x6 studs, 4x4 beams anchored into concrete. Joists will be hung off hangers on both sides. 3/4" ply will be glued and screwed into joists.

Are these reasonable, safe plans? Will there be too much bounce on the 2x4 joists at 5'2" span?

Is the double 2x8 enough for a 11 foot span?

Thanks for your input.


texts: Are there any special steps when installing drywall over vapour barrier?

texts:
I have a simple (I think) question about installing drywall overtop vapour barrier.

Obviously the drywall screw will puncture the vapour barrier.  What is typically done to prevent that puncture from rendering the vapour barrier useless?

I'm sure there must be a way, I just can't figure the right Google keywords to use to find the answer.

Edit: I ended using acoustic sealant along the stud where the screw goes in.  It's viscous but tacky, so it can create a bit of an additional seal.


texts: How to GFCI protect bathroom lighting circuit

texts: I have an old house with 3 bathrooms all on the same circuit. Each has a light with a receptacle above the sink controlled by a wall switch. (See image below.) I want to GFCI protect the entire circuit from the first bathroom switch in the circuit. There is 14/3 wire from that switch box to the light, so the switch feeds the light with the red wire. My question: how do I wire a GFCI/Switch combo to protect everything past it in the circuit, including the light fixture?


texts: Is part P enough to do electrical works in my house?

texts: I would like to install a power socket in the shed and I believe I could pull the power from the garage circuit. I've read some treads here and I got a bit confused if I could do it myself or not. But as there are other electrical works to be done, I would like to invest in some domestic electrician course. I know some things that I've learnt on my mechanical engineering degree and worked with a electrician for a couple of months (in Portugal) a few years ago, so not a complete novice. Would I be able to carry out this type of works in my house with the part P course or would need more certifications? This is for UK. Thanks


texts:
Old plug worked and light work. no breaker blown.

Installed new GFI and nothing works.

Isolated hot line, reset GFI and used only hot line in and GFI blows.

Connected wires together to bypass outlet, and light works fine.


texts: Low Voltage between Neutral and Ground wires in Dishwasher Junction Box

texts: My Bosch 800 series Dishwasher will not function. I plan on swapping the control module. In the junction box, at the terminals, I'm reading 120V between Hot and Ground, and between Hot and Neutral. Between Neutral and Ground, I am reading almost zero to 1V. Is this a normal reading between these two terminals, or should I consider swapping the junction box, as well?


texts: How can I make a door open or close depending on the door position?

texts:
Almost every door needs to be either open or closed, rarely do we need it half open. Since the doors (not the band) in my home are old, some of them tend to open or close automatically because their hinges are loose or slightly rotated. So some doors tend to open/close and usually not as desired.

I want to create a mechanism that will force the door to go towards its nearest position (open or closed). Something like this:

When door is left in the open area, it should open (even slowly) and stay there, and the opposite when it is left in the red area. I don't care if it will completely close, but at least be moved to that end.

Specs:

The mechanism should be nearly silent
It should be cheap (less than 25e/30$)
Should be installable to the existing doors.
I don't care if I'll have to drill door/floor or case.
It shouldn't use electricity. Only mechanical power.
I don't want to use door stoppers, this is the obvious solution.

I have considered somehow using strong magnets (I have several from broken hard disks) in order to move to the nearest end, but since I'm not an engineer I cannot come up with a design. Any ideas?


texts: Demolishing a shed floor made of plywood. Can I use circular saw?

texts:
I just tore down my backyard shed. All that is left is the base/floor, which is plywood. Basically, I want it in small pieces so I can bag it for disposal.

I have a low power Li-ion reciprocating saw with a "green wood" super aggressive blade, which I know can do the job, but I also have a corded 15-amp 7 1/2 circular saw lying around. It is much more powerful, and I know it rips plywood much much quicker and effortlessly.

My general safety understanding of the circular saw is, one side of what you're cutting should not be fastened (free to fall off), or else it may kick back. So, would it be unsafe to run a circular saw through a plywood floor fastened to a wooden frame on the ground?


texts: I was opening a door at my place. You have to turn the key to open the latch while the handle remains locked. I did this and while the key was turned i pushed open the door and the key popped out. Now the lock is stuck open and the key wont go back inside to re-lock the door. Is there any way to fix this without having to replace the lock?


texts: Replacing a ceiling fan with a fan with no light.  Want to add 4 recessed light cans.  The new fan only works with remote so no switch needed.  Can I wire the recessed cans to the same fan wire (2 wire romex)?  Can I just connect the black with black and white with white and add a dimmer switch for the recessed cans?


texts: Moisture is leaking through my basement walls, but the house is surrounded by concrete. Worth fixing?

texts:
I'm in Minneapolis, in a house built in 1886, fully renovated a few years ago. The basement is finished. This has been an extremely wet winter, with lots of snow and ice that is now melting.

Some guests pointed out a damp patch of carpet in the basement. When I pulled it up, it looks like water is leaking in through an exterior wall. I can't see more without taking off the drywall.

The basement has leaked only once previously, but that was due to a blocked sewer clean-out pipe, and that is not the cause this time.

The house is surrounded an all sides by sidewalk. It is graded/angled to allow for drainage. The house has gutters, but they are completely blocked with ice. I suspect that the leak is related to the build-up of ice on the sidewalk.

I am deciding between these options:

Pay a contractor to come in and investigate. Because there is sidewalk on the exterior, I expect any repairs will be very expensive.
Just fix the damage, and in the future try to be more diligent about keeping the sidewalk clear of ice.

What are your thoughts?


texts:
Is there an industrial standard relating to the distance between the shower door handle and the edge of the glass door?

I cut my fingertip completely off by swinging the door outward.


texts: Which professional should I call for leak coming down the furnace exhaust flue?

texts: During heavy downpours, especially ones when windy, water would begin to trickle and drip from the outside surface of the exhaust flue in the basement. Not sure how long this has been going on since the house was just purchased recently. Should I call an HVAC or a roofing pro to take a look? Initial Googling suggests a bad rain cap, but I'd prefer someone with the correct experience to make sure it's nothing else. Also, would the white coating be an indication that this has happened before? The home inspector never mentioned anything.


texts: Why is the circuit shorting after connecting a new light fixture?

texts: Working on a project that another contractor left halfway through. All the demo was complete when I came to site, now I'm 90% done, and just reconnecting new fixtures/plates ect(I did no electric work while there, just put up some new sheetrock, ceiling texture and paint.) 1 box was left bare without a switch, as well as one light fixture disconnected when I arrived originally. The previous guy taped together a group of 5 or so white wires and 5 or so black wires, and one white wire was left desperate. It all looked weird and bunched up but I assumed white to white black to black ground to ground must be this white wire. Hook It up, hook up a light switch, flip the breaker back on and the light is on, but the new switch doesn't work. Not receiving the signal. Okay, call the homeowner, confirm the missing box was a switch for the light, she said no it was a flat plate. Flip the breaker off, disconnect the switch. Put it back on and go to flip the switch that she says is the one for the overhead I was installing, and the thing shorts the whole upstairs. I'm lost, I really hope all this detail helps because I have no idea and don't want to call an electrician just for a fixture


texts: Plastic ground plug openings in 110 outlet broken

texts: The bottom plastic of electrical outlet is broken. Does it need to be replaced?  outlet b/c of fire hazard. In 8 of 10 outlets had a small piece of plastic at the bottom of the grounding plug opening.  Why would so many be broken?


texts:
So I am trying to replace an old light switch that has 3 actual switches on it. The top and bottom switch control normal 2-way switches that control one fixture. The middle one is a 3-way switch controlling a fixture. The problem is, the top and bottom switches say they are 3-way on the light switch and the whole thing is wired really strangely.

What I'd like to do is eliminate the 3-way and put in a double toggle normal switch. Any idea how to decipher the current wiring, shown below, and accomplish what I'm looking for? Let me know if you need to see anything else.

Thanks in advance!


texts:
I have used standard drywall compound to patch little holes in my walls (very small patches- nail/anchor holes) and have sanded them down. My question is should I prime the wall patches or can I just apply the eggshell color to my wallls?
I don't want to have the "flashing" effect and have my walls look smooth without it looking "patchy"?


texts: Unable to remove hard turmeric stains on the apartment common carpet

texts: We just moved in to a new apartment and spilled some turmeric over the common carpet area in front of our main door. Tried treating the stains with stain remover, bleach and dishwashing liquid and so forth and so on. No luck with anything. Could anyone please suggest how to remove a week old hard turmeric stains on a colored carpet.


texts: Would running a band saw or cnc machine in my basement be safe?

texts: I'd like to get a band saw and drill press but I don't have room in my garage so I'd like to put it in my basement. The problem is I don't have any ventilation to remove sawdust so would having it in my basement be impractical / unhealthy?